“Spine title: Dodge & Plymouth mini-vans Includes index Metadata comments: Spine title: Dodge & Plymouth mini-
115 76 29MB
English Pages 266 Year 1987
WM 1984 2.2
thru
liter
1986 2.6
liter
Owners Workshop Manual hi
Digitized by the Internet Archive in
2012
http://archive.org/details/dodgecaravanplymOOchoa
F-
Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager
Mini-Vans
Owners Workshop Manual by Curt Choate and John H Haynes Member
of the Guild of
Motoring Writers
Models covered:
Dodge Caravan/Mini Ram Van and Plymouth Voyager 1984 thru 1986 2.2 liter and 2.6 liter engines with 4-speed, 5-speed and automatic transmission
FGHIJ
KLMMO
IWiTS
St
association
Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil
Somerset BA22 7JJ England
Haynes Publications, 861 Lawrence Drive
Inc
Newbury Park 91320 USA
California
^^^ MEMBER
Acknowledgements We are grateful for the help and Company
cooperation of the Ford Motor
for their assistance with technical information, cer-
and vehicle photos, and the Champion Spark Plug Company who supplied the illustrations of various spark plug conditions.
tain illustrations
©
Haynes Publishing Group 1985
A book
the Haynes
in
Owners Workshop Manual
Haynes & Co., Somerset BA22 7JJ, England
Printed by J.H.
Ltd.
Series
Sparkford Nr. Yeovil,
No part of this book may be reproduced any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.
All rights
reserved.
or transmitted in
ISBN
85010 231 7
1
Library of
Congress Catalog Card Number 85-82430
While every care
manual
is
is
correct,
taken to ensure that the information in this liability can be accepted by the authors
no
or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by in, or omissions from, the information given.
any errors
Contents Introductory pages
About
this
manual
Introduction to the Ford Caravan and Plymouth Voyager Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Booster battery (jump) starting
Jacking and towing Safety first! Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Troubleshooting
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance
Chapter 2 Part 2.6L engine
Part
9 9 16 16 18 19
20 21
27
A 54
Chapter 2 Part B 2.2L engine
Chapter 2
5 5 7
68
C
General engine overhaul procedures
84
Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and
air
conditioning systems
106
Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems
114
Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems
134
Chapter 6 Emissions control systems
145
Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission
156
Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission
160
Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles
167
Chapter 9 Brakes
180
Chapter 10 Steering and suspension systems
191
Chapter 11
Body
208
Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system
220
Wiring diagrams
229
index
256
c
> E (0
ec
00
J
About Its
this
manual
purpose of this
manual
is
to help
simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved For
Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within lines.
you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. It is hoped that you will use the manual to tackle the work yourself.
The purpose
many
by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after having done the job yourself.
Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal
that Section.
Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. it is necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number i.e. Chapter 1/16). Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter" apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8" means in the same Chapter. Reference to the left or right side of the vehicle is based on the assumption that one is sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward. Even though extreme care has been taken during the preparation of this manual, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.
When
NOTE A Note
provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which the steps to be followed easier to understand.
will
make
CAUTION
A
Caution indicates a special procedure or special steps which must be taken in the course of completing the procedure in which the Caution is found which are necessary to avoid damage to the assembly being
worked
on.
WARNING A Warning
which must be taken in the course of completing found which are necessary to avoid injury to the person performing
indicates a special procedure or special steps
the procedure in which the Warning the procedure.
is
Introduction to the
Dodge Caravan
and Plymouth Voyager The Chrysler mini-vans, as these vehicles are commonly known, are based on the K-car chassis and drivetrain and share many components with Chrysler Corporation's popular front wheel drive cars. The transverse mounted, four-cylinder overhead cam engine is available in two displacements — the 2.2L Chrysler-made engine and the 2.6L Mitsubishi engine. The engine drives the front wheels through
a
choice of either a manual or automatic transaxle via unequal length The rack and pinion steering gear is mounted behind the
driveaxles.
engine.
The brakes
vacuum
are disc at the front
and drum-type
assist as standard equipment.
at the rear, with
Vehicle identification
numbers
Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the
component
Vehicle identification
required.
Body
identification plate
This metal plate is located on the top side of the radiator support. Like the VIN, it contains valuable information concerning the production of the vehicle as well as information about the way in which the vehicle is equipped. This plate is especially useful for matching the color and type of paint during repair work.
number
(VIN) number
is located on a plate attached to the top left corner of the dashboard of the vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains valuable information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style.
This very important identification
Engine identification numbers The engine identification number (EIN) on the 2.2 liter engine is stamped into the rear of the block, just above the bellhousing. On the 2.6 liter engine it is on the radiator side of the block, between the core plug and the rear of the block.
LINE
NO, 6
12345 67 8 910111213
14 15 16 17
5
O
14 15
4
12345678910111213
3
123
2
123
1
1234
3456 7 8910111213
1819202122
16171819 2021
identification
number
is
visible
1819202122 23
567 91011
14
1819 20 2122 23
5678
14 15 16
101112
678910111213 1415
117
16
181920212223 181920212223
through the
driver's side of the windshield
2.2L engine identification number location
O
14 15 16 17
Typical body code plate
The vehicle
23
2.6L engine identification number location
i
FOR FACTORY USE
ONLY
_J
Vehicle identification numbers
T.I.N.
LOCATION
2.6L engine
serial
number
ASSEMBLY PART NUMBER LOCATION
location
Transaxle number locations
Engine serial numbers addition to the EIN, a serial number, which is required when buying replacement parts, is also used. On the 2.2 liter engine it is located just below the EIN on the block. On the 2.6 liter engine it is located In
on the right-front side of the engine block, adjacent to the exhaust manifold stud (dashboard side in vehicle).
Transaxle identification number The transaxle identification number is stamped upper surface of the housing.
into the
boss on the
Transaxle serial numbers The transaxle serial number, also called the assembly part number, is required when buying parts. On manual transaxles it is located on a metal tag attached to the front side of the transaxle. On automatics it
is
located on a pad just above the
oil
pan
at the rear of the transaxle.
Vehicle Emissions Control Information label The Emissions Control Information label is attached to the front edge of the hood, on the underside (see Chapter 6 for an illustration of the label and its location).
Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally into one of two categories — authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these fall
parts
is
as follows:
Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to your vehicle and not generally available elsewhere such as major engine parts, transaxle parts, trim pieces, etc. It is also the only place you should buy parts if your vehicle is still under warranty, as non-factory parts may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have your engine and chassis numbers available and,
if
Retail auto parts stores:
Good auto
needed components which wear out
parts stores will stock frequently
such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch relatively fast
up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices, and can often be found not far from your home.
possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.
Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.
Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used parts together. There are a
once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.
Maintenance techniques, tools and working
10
Fastener sizes
standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts),
making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2—13x1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M1 2 — 1 .75 x 25 metric bolt is 1 2 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1 .75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are For a
number
of reasons, automobile manufacturers are
not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a
Grade
1
Grade 5
or 2
Bolt strength
Grade
Identification
markings (top
Class
—
facilities
Grade 8
standard'SAE/U S
;
bottom
—
metric)
Identification
Hex Nut Hex Nut Grade 5
Property Class 9
3 Dots
J Arabic 9
Hex Nut
Hex Nut
Property Class 10
Grade 8
6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings
CLASS ArabicIO
Metric hex nut strength
markings
10.9
e © CLASS
CLASS
9.8
8.8
Metric stud strength markings
8
Maintenance techniques, tools and working while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. through It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as U.S.S. sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.
11
facilities
Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened
to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come
screws and studs, depending on the material they are made and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners loose. Bolts, of
not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values.
Metric thread sizes M-6 M-8 M-10 M-12 M-14
Ft-lb
Nm/m
6 to 9
9 to 12 19 to 28
14 to 21
28 50 80
to
40 140
38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154
1
7 to 10 17 to 24
33 35
30 34
to 71 to
Pipe thread sizes 1/8 1/4
5 to 8
3/8
22 25
1
1/2
2 to to to
to to
44 47
U. S. thread sizes
1/4-20 5/16-18 5/16-24 3/8-16 3/8-24 7/16-14 7/16-20 1/2-13
G Grade marks T
D
(bolt strength)
Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)
9 to 12
12 14 22 27
17 to 24 19 to 27
to 18 to 20 to to
40 40
to
55
to
to
32 38 55 60 80
30 37 55 55 75
to
43
to 51 to
74
to 81 to
108
Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks
Standard (SAE and U.S.) bolt dimensions/grade marks
L
6 to 9
P
Property class (bolt strength)
L
Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads Diameter
T
D
in millimeters)
Maintenance techniques, tools and working
12
out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping.
Fasteners
laid
bolts, differential
Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.
Component disassembly care and purpose to go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can
Component disassembly should be done with
handle, but keep
wood
in
facilities
mind that extra clean up
will
be necessary
if
the
splinters.
After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.
help ensure that the parts
be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.
Hose removal
tips Warning: If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized
by a dealer service department or an air conditioning specialist. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation.
As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is
not damaged.
a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed. If
Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom
Micrometer set
Tools A
selection of
to maintain
few
and
good
tools
is
a basic requirement for
repair his or her
tools, the initial
own
investment might seem high, but
to the spiraling costs of professional auto is
a
anyone who plans owner who has
vehicle. For the
wise one.
Dial indicator set
when compared
maintenance and
repair,
it
Maintenance techniques, tools and working
vi
Dial caliper
13
facilities
.
Hand-operated vacuum
pump
Timing
light
S/
Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter
Hydraulic
lifter
removal tool
Ridge reamer
Damper/steering wheel puller
Valve spring compressor
General purpose puller
Valve spring compressor
^^h Piston ring groove cleaning tool
Ring removal/installation tool
Maintenance techniques, tools and working
14
Cylinder hone
Ring compressor
Brake cylinder hone
To
Battery post Oil filter
kit should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and open-end combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. tools
and cable cleaning wrench Funnel (medium size)
owner decide which
Maintenance and minor repair tool The
in
this
list
1
inch or 6
gauge set
2x6
emery
Wire brush
cloth
to
19
mm)
tool
Drain
pan
If basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.
Note:
it
will
Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the repairs
/2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive
and more expensive,
is
bulky
has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set
and
it
a 1/2-inch drive set.
Socket setfs)
Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. inch) Combination pliers — 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine
mm
die set
Safety goggles Jackstands (2)
1
Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler
Tap and
Clutch plate alignment tool
tools are needed to perform the tasks manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair. Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-ityourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use. in
Brake hold-down spring tool
this
help the
detailed
facilities
Reversible ratchet Extension — 10 inch Universal joint
Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball
peen hammer — 8 ounce
Soft-face
hammer
(plastic/rubber)
Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby — 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby — No. 2)
3x8
Maintenance techniques, tools and working Pliers Pliers Pliers
Pliers
— — — —
on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that
vise grip
lineman's needle nose snap-ring (internal and external)
Cold chisel
-
1/2-inch
Scribe
Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch
punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Steel rule/straightedge — 12 inch Ailen wrench set (1/8 to 5/8-inch or A selection of files Wire brush (large)
15
facilities
actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.
Pin
will
4
mm
to
10
mm)
Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)
Care and maintenance of tools Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill motor with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.
Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are inluded in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor
it makes sense to treat them with Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during
a test drive.
Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.
Working
facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort
Cylinder bore gauge
separator Universal-type puller
Balljoint
Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set
Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up)
Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack
Buying tools
or
who
is
just starting to get involved in vehicle
repair, there are a
number
of options available
work area
is
essential.
understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which will soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage It
Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool
For the do-it-yourselfer
tools are expensive, so
of suitable
Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone
maintenance and
Good
respect.
when
purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If,
is
shop floor. Whenever working over
a painted surface, such as
when
leaning over
a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads,
made
especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.
Booster battery (jump) starting Certain precautions to
jump a)
must be observed when using
a booster battery
start a vehicle.
Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is in the Off position. Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. The eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea.
switch b) c)
d)
Make
e)
one in the vehicle. The two vehicles must not touch each other. Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual transaxle)
f
>
g)
sure the booster battery
is
the
same voltage as the dead
or Park
(automatic transaxle). If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes.
Connect the red jumper cable
to the positive
(
+ terminals of each )
battery.
Connect one end
jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the engine block. Use caution to insure that the cable will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of the black
of the booster battery.
The other end
Booster cable connections (note that the negative cable is not attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)
of connection.
Jacking and towing Jacking
JACK LOCATOR
The
PIN
jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Warning: Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground with the wheels blocked and
jack
the transaxle in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). If the tire is to be changed, pry off the hub cap (if equipped) using the tapered end of the lug wrench. If the wheel is being replaced, loosen the wheel nuts one-half turn and leave them in place until the wheel is raised off the ground. Refer to Chapter 10 for information related to removing and installing the tire. Place the jack under the side of the vehicle in the indicated position and raise it until the jack head hole fits over the rocker flange jack locator pin. Operate the jack with a slow, smooth motion until the wheel is raised off the ground. Lower the vehicle, remove the jack and tighten the nuts (if loosened
removed) in a criss-cross sequence by turning the wrench clockwise. Replace the hub cap (if equipped) by placing it in position and using the heel of your hand or a rubber mallet to seat it. or
The jack supplied with the vehicle fits over a underside of the vehicle, which secures it
on the place
pin in
Jacking and towing
Towing Vehicles with an automatic transaxle can be towed with all four wheels on the ground, provided that speeds do not exceed 25 mph and the distance is not over 15 miles, otherwise transmission damage can result. Vehicles with a manual transaxle can be towed at legal highway speeds for any distance. If the vehicle has a damaged transaxle, tow it only with the front wheels off the ground. Towing equipment specifically designed for this purpose should be
17
used and should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle and not the bumper or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used all towing. While towing, the parking brake should be released and the transmission must be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Off position). Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.
for
3 d
c3
JB:i
DRIVE
ON
HOIST
FRAME CONTACT HOIST TWIN POST HOIST FLOOR JACK
Hoist and jacking points
I
Safety
first!
Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are in-
tended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.
Essential
DOs and DON'Ts
on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack — it may fall. DON'T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON'T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system — let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled
DON'T
rely
to the point that
will
it
DON'T touch any
not burn you.
system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale brake lining dust — it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below) DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause
part of the engine or exhaust
Remember
are working on
it.
DO wear
eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts.
DO make adequate
sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating for the job.
DO get someone to
check on you periodically when working alone on
a vehicle.
DO carry
out work
in
a logical
sequence and make sure that everything
correctly assembled and tightened.
DO
keep chemicals and children and pets.
DO remember others.
If
in
fluids tightly
capped and out of the reach of
that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and
doubt on any point, get professional advice.
all
times that gasoline
is
highly flammable. Never
smoke
Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area.
When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit
loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component alone — get someone to help you. DON'T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON'T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you
at
have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.
or
injury.
DON'T push on wrenches when
is
Fire
with possibly lethal results.
The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near the battery. The battery normally gives off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery
may
burst.
Take care when adding water and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin.
Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.
Household current When using an electric power
tool, inspection light, etc.,
operates on household current, always
which
make
sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel
vapor.
Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.
Secondary ignition system voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching ignition
ning or
certain parts of the
system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the
is
run-
insula-
is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.
tion
Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.
is
used
for
mounting HEI
heat be transferred
from
Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. It is non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on, and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.
modules where
it
is
essential that
the module.
Sealants
RTV sealant is
Cleaners
ignition
away from
one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made
RTV
is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant \s used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.
silicone,
irregularities,
Chemicals Anti-seize
corrosion
in
compound prevents
seizing, galling, cold welding, rust
fasteners. High temperature anti-seize, usually
copper and graphite lubricants,
is
and
made
with used for exhaust system and manifold
bolts.
Lubricants Motor
the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multiviscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and
heavy
oil is
oils
and are available
in
a
number
of weights
from 5W-20 to
20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transaxles and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie rod ends and universal joints. High temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenun disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal to metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from - 1 00 °F to + 1 90 °F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts.
Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that
Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose, and cure only after installation, in the
Medium
strength locking compound is used for small screws that you expect to be removing later. High strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which you don't intend to be removing on a regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical
absence of
air.
nuts, bolts and
treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils.
Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts. They also serve
down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank. to break
Other Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces.
Undercoating
is
a
petroleum-based
tar-like
substance that
is
designed
to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion.
also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier tc apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes. It
Conversion factors Length (distance) X X
Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles
Volume
X
25.4 0.305 1.609
= = =
Millimetres
(mm)
Metres (m) Kilometres (km)
3
X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres X 0.568 = Litres (I) X 1.137 = Litres (I)
US
X 0.946 = Litres (I) X 4.546 = Litres (I) X 1.201 = US gallons (US X 3.785 = Litres (I)
)
X
quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
gallons (US gal)
Mass Ounces Pounds
0.0394
X X X X X X X X
0.061
0.833 0.264
= Cubic inches (cu in; in 3 = Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = US gallons (US gal)
X X
0.035 2.205
= Ounces = Pounds
X X X
0.225
X
14.223
3.281 0.621
Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles
(capacity)
Cubic inches (cu in; in Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US
= = =
X X X
1.201
=US
cm 3
(cc;
)
quarts (US qt)
gal)
1.76
0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22
)
(weight) X X
(oz) (lb)
28.35 0.454
= Grams (g) = Kilograms
(kg)
(oz) (lb)
Force Ounces-force Pounds-force
Newtons
X 0.278 = Newtons (N) X 4.448 = Newtons (N) X 0.1 = Kilograms-force
(ozf; oz) (Ibf;
lb)
(N)
(kgf; kg)
3.6 9.81
= Ounces-force = Pounds-force = Newtons (N)
(ozf; oz) (Ibf;
lb)
Pressure Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in
2 ;
lb/in
(psi; lbf/in
;
lb/in
2 ;
lb/in
2 ;
lb/in
X 0.068
=
Kilograms-force per square 2 centimetre (kgf/cm kg/cm 2 Atmospheres (atm)
X
0.069
=
X
6.895
X
0.01
=
Pounds-force per square inch 2
(psi;
)
X
14.696
=
Bars
X
14.5
=
=
Kilopascals (kPa)
X
0.145
=
=
Kilograms-force per square 2 2 centimetre (kgf/cm kg/cm
X
98.1
=
X
0.868
=
lbf/in
(psi; lbf/in
)
(psi; lbf/in
(psi;
)
;
2 )
2 ;
lb/in
2 )
2
2 ;
lb/in
)
Pounds-force per square inch
2
Kilopascals (kPa)
lb/in
Pounds-force per square inch
2 )
;
Pounds-force per square inch
2
Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in
=
;
Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in
0.070
)
Pounds-force per square inch 2
X
2
lbf/in
2 ;
lb/in
2 )
Kilopascals (kPa)
)
Torque (moment of force) X
Pounds-force inches
1.152
=
(Ibf in; lb in)
Kilograms-force centimetre cm; kg cm)
(kgf
X
Pounds-force inches
0.113
Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)
= Newton metres (Nm)
X
8.85
=
(Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)
X
Pounds-force inches
0.083
=
Pounds-force feet
(Ibf
ft;
lb ft)
X
12
=
(Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force feet
(Ibf ft; lb ft)
X
0.138
Kilograms-force metres m; kg m)
X
7.233
=
= Newton metres (Nm) = Kilograms-force metres
X X
0.738
= Pounds-force feet (Ibf = Newton metres (Nm)
X
0.0013
=
Pounds-force feet
(Ibf ft; lb ft)
(kgf
Pounds-force feet (Ibf Newton metres (Nm)
ft;
lb ft)
X X
1.356 0.102
(kgf
9804
ft;
lb ft)
m; kg m)
Power Horsepower
(hp)
= Watts
X
745.7
X
1.609
Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X
0.621
=
Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)
X X
0.354 0.425
Kilometres per Kilometres per
X X
2.825 2.352
= =
Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)
(W)
= Horsepower
(hp)
Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)
Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)
litre
(km/I)
litre
(km/I)
Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit 'It is
=
(°C x 1.8) + 32
Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)
common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/ 100 mpg (imperial) x III 00 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 100 km = 235
where
I1
kilometres
(II
100km),
=
(°F
-
32)
x
0.56
Troubleshooting Contents
Symptom
Section
Engine
Symptom
Section
slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive forward or reverse gears Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to
Transaxle 13 15
Engine backfires Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching off Engine hard to start when cold Engine hard to start when hot Engine lacks power Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically Engine misses at idle speed Engine misses throughout driving speed range Engine rotates but will not start Engine stalls Engine starts but stops immediately Engine will not rotate when attempting to start Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or
4 12
8 9 10
7 1
motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement .... Starter motor operates without rotating engine
14 6 3
Engine electrical system Battery will not hold a charge Ignition light fails to
go out
is
the floor
40
Driveaxles Clicking noise
in
turns
Knock or clunk when accelerating from a coast Shudder or vibration during acceleration
43 44 45
2 11
uphill
come on when key
41
5
Starter
Ignition light fails to
in
16 18 17
turned on
Brakes Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed Brake pedal pulsates during brake application Excessive brake pedal travel Excessive effort required to stop vehicle Noise (high-pitched squeal without the brakes applied) Pedal travels to the floor with little resistance Vehicle pulls to one side during braking
50 53 49 51
48 52 47
Rear axle 46
Noise
Suspension and steering systems
Fuel system Excessive fuel consumption Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor
19
20
Cooling system 25 23 24 22
Coolant loss External coolant leakage Internal coolant leakage Overcooling Overheating Poor coolant circulation
21
26
Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or during braking Excessive play in steering Excessive tire wear (not specific to one area) Excessive tire wear on inside edge Excessive tire wear on outside edge Excessively stiff steering Lack of power assistance
Shimmy, shake worn
Tire tread
or vibration in
one place
Vehicle pulls to one side
56 58 60 62 61
57 59 55
63 54
Clutch Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed) Clutch pedal stays on floor when disengaged Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor — shift lever does not move freely in and out of reverse) Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged Squeal or rumble with clutch fully disengaged (pedal depressed) Squeal or rumble with clutch fully engaged (pedal released) .
28 32 27 29 31 .
30
Manual transaxle engaging gears Noisy in all gears Noisy in Neutral with engine running Noisy in one particular gear Oil leakage Slips out of high gear Difficulty in
37 34 33 38 38
36
Automatic transaxle Fluid leakage
General shift
mechanism problems
42 39
This section provides an easy reference guide to the more common problems which may occur during the operation of your vehicle. These problems and possible causes are grouped under various components or systems; i.e. Engine, Cooling system, etc., and also refer to the Chapter and/or Section which deals with the problem. Remember that successful troubleshooting is not a mysterious black art practiced only by professional mechanics. It's simply the result of a bit of knowledge combined with an intelligent, systematic approach to the problem. Always work by a process of elimination, starting with the simplest solution and working through to the most complex — and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can forget to fill the gas tank or leave the lights on overnight, so don't assume that you are above such oversights. Finally, always get clear in your mind why a problem has occurred and take steps to ensure that it doesn't happen again. If the electrical system fails because of a poor connection, check all other connections in the system to make sure that they don't fail as well. If a particular fuse continues to blow, find out why — don't just go on replacing fuses. Remember, failure of a small component can often be indicative of potential failure or incorrect functioning of a more important component or system.
1
.
22
Troubleshooting
Engine
Engine hard to start
5 1
Engine
will
not rotate
when attempting
to start
is discharged. 3 Automatic transmission not completely engaged in Park or clutch not completely depressed. 4 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit. Inspect all wiring and connectors at the battery, starter solenoid and ignition switch. Starter motor pinion jammed in flywheel ring gear. If manual 5 transmission, place transmission in gear and rock the vehicle to manually turn the engine. Remove starter and inspect pinion and flywheel
4
sticking in the closed position (Chapter 1). Carburetor flooded (see Section 2). Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). Fuel not reaching the carburetor (see Section 2).
6
Starter
2 3
the battery
at earliest
Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5).
7
Starter
8
Ignition
motor
engagement
Loose or faulty
1
connections at distributor,
electrical
coil
or
alternator.
1
Insufficient fuel reaching the carburetor/fuel injector. Disconnect
).
line at
the carburetor/fuel injector and remove the If
little
or
none
at
all,
filter
(Chapter
Observe the flow check for blockage in the
Place a container under the disconnected fuel
of fuel from the line.
switch faulty (Chapter 12).
in
Engine starts but stops immediately
7
the fuel
faulty (Chapter 5).
motor noisy or excessively rough
Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken. Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing.
1
2
2
convenience.
6
hot
Choke
1
1 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. Check the cable terminals at the battery. Tighten the cable or remove corrosion as necessary. Battery discharged or faulty. If the cable connections are clean and 2 tight on the battery posts, turn the key to the On position and switch on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If they fail to function,
when
line.
and/or replace the fuel pump (Chapter 4). Vacuum leak at the gasket surfaces of the intake manifold and/or 3 carburetor/fuel injection unit. Make sure that all mounting bolts/nuts are tightened securely and that all vacuum hoses connected to the carburetor/fuel injection unit and manifold are positioned properly and in lines
2
1
Engine rotates but
will
not start
good condition.
Fuel tank empty.
Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly). Check the operation of electrical components as described in previous Section. Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. See previous 3 Section. Carburetor flooded and/or fuel level in carburetor incorrect. This 4 will usually be accompanied by a strong fuel odor from under the hood. Wait a few minutes, depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and attempt to start the engine. 5 Choke control inoperative (Chapter 1). Fuel not reaching carburetor. With ignition switch in Off position, 6 open hood, remove the top plate of air cleaner assembly and observe
2
the top of the carburetor (manually move the choke plate back if necessary). Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal and check that fuel spurts into the carburetor. If not, check the fuel filter (Chapter 1), fuel lines and fuel pump (Chapter 4). 7 Fuel injector or fuel pump faulty (fuel injected vehicles) (Chapter 4). Excessive moisture on, or damage to, ignition components (Chap8 ter 5).
Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 10 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (see
9
8
Engine lopes while
Vacuum
idling or idles erratically
Check mounting bolts/nuts at the carburetor/fuel and intake manifold for tightness. Make sure that all vacuum hoses are connected and in good condition. Use a stethoscope or a length of fuel hose held against your ear to listen for vacuum leaks while the engine is running. A hissing sound will be heard. A soapy water solution will also detect leaks. Check the carburetor/fuel injector and intake manifold gasket surfaces. Leaking EGR valve or plugged PCV valve (see Chapters 1 and 6). 2 Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). 3 4 Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the carburetor/fuel in1
leakage.
injection unit
jector (see Section 7).
Carburetor out of adjustment (Chapter 4). Leaking head gasket. If this is suspected, take the vehicle to a repair shop or dealer where the engine can be pressure checked. 7 Timing chain and/or gears worn (Chapter 2). 8 Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2). 5
6
previous Section). 1
Distributor loose, causing ignition timing to change. Turn the
distributor as necessary to start engine, then set ignition timing as
soon
as possible (Chapter 1). Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty 1 2 coil (Chapter 5).
9
1
2 3
3
Starter
10
Spark plugs worn or not gapped properly (Chapter Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1). Choke not operating properly (Chapter 1).
1).
Engine hard to start
Engine misses throughout driving speed range
Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter Also check fuel output at the carburetor/fuel injector (see Section 7). 2 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1). 3 4 Check for cracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor wires and damaged distributor components (Chapter 1). Leaking spark plug wires (Chapter 1). 5 6 Faulty emissions system components (Chapter 6). Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Remove spark 7 plugs and test compression with gauge (Chapter 1). 8 Weak or faulty ignition system (Chapter 5). 9 Vacuum leaks at carburetor/fuel injection unit, intake manifold or vacuum hoses (see Section 8). 1
1 ).
when
cold
Battery discharged or low. Check as described in Section 1 Choke control inoperative or out of adjustment (Chapter 4). Carburetor flooded (see Section 2). 3 Fuel supply not reaching the carburetor (see Section 2). 4 Carburetor/fuel injection system in need of overhaul (Chapter 4). 5 Distributor rotor carbon tracked and/or mechanical advance 6 mechanism rusted (Chapter 5). 1
speed
Remove
the starter (Chapter 5) and inspect. Starter pinion or flywheel teeth worn or broken.
2
idle
motor operates without rotating engine
Starter pinion sticking.
4
Engine misses at
23
Troubleshooting 5
Engine
1 1
Excessive engine operating temperature. Probable causes of this
are malfunctioning thermostat, clogged radiator, faulty water
stalls
(Chapter 1
Idle
speed incorrect (Chapter 1). filter clogged and/or water and impurities
in the fuel system (Chapter 1). Choke improperly adjusted or sticking (Chapter 1). 3 4 Distributor components damp or damaged (Chapter 5). 5 Faulty emissions system components (Chapter 6). 6 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1 ). Also check spark plug wires (Chapter 1). 7 Vacuum leak at the carburetor/fuel injection unit, intake manifold or vacuum hoses. Check as described in Section 8. Valve clearances incorrectly set (Chapter 2). 8
2
Fuel
Engine electrical system 16 1
2
3
4 5
6 7
Battery
will
not hold a charge
Alternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter
low or battery discharged (Chapter Battery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1). Electrolyte level
1 ).
1).
Alternator not charging properly (Chapter 5). Loose, broken or faulty wiring in the charging circuit (Chapter Short in vehicle wiring causing a continual drain on battery. Battery defective internally.
5).
Engine lacks power
12 1
Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter
2
Excessive play
worn
in
17
1).
distributor shaft. At the
rotor, faulty distributor cap, wires, etc.
same
(Chapters
gapped spark plugs (Chapter
1
and
5).
Faulty or incorrectly
4
Carburetor/fuel injection unit not adjusted properly or excessively
worn (Chapter
1).
go out
alternator or charging circuit (Chapter 5).
1
Fault
2
Alternator drivebelt defective or not properly adjusted (Chapter
in
1
4).
Faulty coil (Chapter
5).
Brakes binding (Chapter 1). 7 Automatic transmission fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1). Clutch slipping (Chapter 8). 8 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1 ). 9 10 Emissions control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 1 Use of substandard fuel. Fill tank with proper octane fuel. 12 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Test with compression tester, which will detect leaking valves and/or blown head gasket (Chapter 1 ). 6
18 1
2 3
Ignition light fails to
come on when key
is
turned on
Warning
light bulb defective (Chapter 12). Alternator faulty (Chapter 5). Fault in the printed circuit, dash wiring or bulb holder (Chapter
1
2).
Fuel system 19
13
Ignition light fails to
time, check for
3
5
pump
3).
Engine backfires
Excessive fuel consumption
element (Chapter
1
Dirty or clogged air filter
2
Incorrectly set ignition timing (Chapter
1
3
Choke
2
4 Emissions system not functioning properly (not all vehicles, see Chapter 6). 5 Carburetor idle speed and/or mixture not adjusted properly (Chap-
Emissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1). Faulty secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator, 3 faulty plug wires, distributor cap and/or rotor) (Chapters 1 and 5). 4 Carburetor/fuel injection unit in need of adjustment or worn excessively (Chapter 4). Vacuum leak at carburetor/fuel injection unit(s), intake manifold 5 or vacuum hoses. Check as described in Section 8. 6 Valve clearances incorrectly set, and/or valves sticking (Chapter 2).
6 7
Low
tire
worn
or
dam-
4).
pressure or incorrect
tire size
(Chapter
1).
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor
Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration 1
Incorrect grade of fuel.
Fill
tank with fuel of the proper octane
rating.
Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).
Carburetor/fuel injection unit in need of adjustment (Chapter 4). Improper spark plugs. Check plug type against Emissions Control Information label located in engine compartment. Also check plugs and wires for damage (Chapter 1).
Leak
in
Tank
overfilled.
a fuel feed or vent line (Chapter 4).
Fill only to automatic shut-off. Emissions system filter clogged (Chapter 1). 4 Vapor leaks from system lines (Chapter 4). Carburetor/fuel injection internal parts excessively worn or out of 5 adjustment (Chapter 4).
2
2 3
1).
Carburetor/fuel injection internal parts excessively
aged (Chapter
or uphill
1
sticking or improperly adjusted (Chapter
ter 1).
20 14
1).
1).
3
4
5
Worn
or
damaged
distributor
components (Chapter
6
Faulty emissions system (Chapter 6).
7
Vacuum
leak.
Check as described
in
Section
Cooling system
5).
21
1
2
15
Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching off
1
Idle
2
Electrical solenoid at side of carburetor not functioning properly
(not
3
4
all
models, see Chapter
1).
4).
Ignition timing incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).
Thermo-controlled (Chapter 6).
air
cleaner heat valve not operating properly
Insufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1). Water pump drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chap-
ter 1).
3
speed too high (Chapter
Overheating
8.
Radiator core blocked or radiator
grille dirty
and restricted (Chap-
ter 3).
Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Fan blades broken or cracked (Chapter 3). 6 Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure. Have cap pressure tested by a gas station or repair shop. 4 5
7
Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).
24
22
Troubleshooting
29
Overcooling
Oil on clutch plate 1 any leakage source.
Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Inaccurate temperature gauge (Chapter 12)
1
2
Grabbing (chattering) as clutch
2
lining.
is
engaged
Remove (Chapter
8)
and inspect. Correct
Worn or loose engine or transmission mounts. These units move when clutch is released. Inspect mounts and bolts. Worn splines on clutch plate hub. Remove clutch components
slightly
23
3
External coolant leakage
1 Deteriorated or damaged hoses or loose clamps. Replace hoses and/or tighten clamps at hose connections (Chapter 1). 2 Water pump seals defective. If this is the case, water will drip from the weep hole in the water pump body (Chapter 1). 3 Leakage from radiator core or header tank. This will require the radiator to be professionally repaired (see Chapter 3 for removal procedures). 4 Engine drain plugs or water jacket core plugs leaking (see Chap-
ter 2).
24
(Chapter 8) and inspect. 4 Warped pressure plate or flywheel. Remove clutch components and inspect.
30
Squeal or rumble with clutch
fully
engaged (pedal released)
Improper adjustment; no free play (Chapter 1). Release bearing binding on transmission bearing retainer. Remove clutch components (Chapter 8) and check bearing. Remove any burrs or nicks, clean and relubricate before reinstallation. Weak linkage return spring. Replace the spring. 3 1
2
Internal coolant leakage
Note: Internal coolant leaks can usually be detected by examining the Check the dipstick and inside of the rocker arm cover for water deposits and an oil consistency like that of a milkshake.
Squeal or rumble with clutch (pedal depressed)
31
fully
disengaged
oil.
Leaking cylinder head gasket. Have the cooling system pressure
1
tested.
Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head. Dismantle engine and
2
spect (Chapter
in-
1
Worn, defective
2
Worn
(Chapter
3
4
Clutch pedal stays on floor
when disengaged
Bind
in
linkage or release bearing. Inspect linkage or
remove clutch
components as necessary.
Too much coolant in system (Chapter 1). Coolant boiling away due to overheating (see Section Internal or external leakage (see Sections 25 and 26). Faulty radiator cap. Have the cap pressure tested.
1
8).
Coolant loss 1
2
broken release bearing (Chapter 8). diaphragm fingers)
2).
32 25
or
or broken pressure plate springs (or
16)
2
Linkage springs being over-extended. Adjust linkage for proper free Make sure proper pedal stop (bumper) is installed.
play.
Manual transaxle 26
Poor coolant circulation
33 Inoperative water pump. A quick test is to pinch the top radiator hose closed with your hand while the engine is idling, then let it loose. You should feel the surge of coolant if the pump is working properly (Chapter 1 ). Restriction in cooling system. Drain, flush and refill the system 2 (Chapter 1). If necessary, remove the radiator (Chapter 3) and have it reverse flushed.
Noisy
in
Neutral with engine running
1
1
2
3
4
Input shaft bearing worn.
Damaged main drive gear bearing. Worn countershaft bearings. Worn or damaged countershaft end
play shims.
Water pump drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chap-
3
34
ter 1).
Thermostat sticking (Chapter
4
Noisy
in all
gears
3). 1
Any
2
Insufficient lubricant (see checking procedures
of the
above causes, and/or: in
Chapter
1)
Clutch 27
Fails to release (pedal
does not move
pressed to the floor — and out of Reverse)
Improper linkage free play adjustment (Chapter Clutch fork off ball stud. Clutch plate warped or damaged (Chapter 8).
1
2
3
shift lever
35
8).
Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase vehicle speed)
in
1
2
Linkage out of adjustment (Chapter 8). Clutch plate oil soaked or lining worn. Remove clutch (Chapter 8)
and inspect. 3 a
Clutch plate not seated.
new one
to seat.
in
one
particular gear
1
Worn, damaged
2
Worn
36 28
Noisy
freely in
It
may
take
30
or
40 normal
starts for
1
2
or
or chipped gear teeth for that particular gear.
damaged synchronizer
for that particular gear.
Slips out of high gear
Transaxle loose on clutch housing (Chapter 7). Shift rods interfering with engine mounts or clutch lever (Chapter Shift rods not
working freely (Chapter
Damaged mainshaft
7).
pilot bearing.
Dirt between transaxle case and engine or misalignment of transaxle (Chapter 7). 6 Worn or improperly adjusted linkage (Chapter 7).
25
Troubleshooting Vent
37 1
Difficulty in
pipe: Transaxle overfilled and/or water in fluid (see checking procedures, Chapter 1). Speedometer connector: Replace the O-ring where speedometer cable enters transaxle case (Chapter 7).
engaging gears
Clutch not releasing completely (see clutch adjustment
in
Chap-
ter 8).
2 Loose, damaged or out-of-adjustment shift linkage. Make thorough inspection, replacing parts as necessary (Chapter 7).
a
Driveaxles
43 38
Oil
Clicking noise
in
turns
leakage 1
Excessive amount of lubricant in transaxle (see Chapter 1 for correct checking procedures). Drain lubricant as required. Side cover loose or gasket damaged. 2 Rear oil seal or speedometer oil seal in need of replacement (Chap3 1
Worn
or
damaged outboard
joint.
Check
for cut or
damaged
seals.
Repair as necessary (Chapter 8).
44
Knock
or clunk
when
accelerating from a coast
ter 7).
Worn or damaged inboard joint. Check for cut or 1 Repair as necessary (Chapter 8)
Automatic transaxle Due
for the
39
home mechanic
General
shift
to properly
mechanism problems
1 Chapter 7 deals with checking and adjusting the shift linkage on automatic transaxles. Common problems which may be attributed to
poorly adjusted linkage are: Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral. Indicator on shifter pointing to a gear other than the one actually being used. Vehicle moves when in Park. 2 Refer to Chapter 7 to adjust the linkage.
45
Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor
Chapter 7 deals with adjusting the throttle valve (TV) cable to enable the transaxle to downshift properly.
41
Transaxle slips, shifts rough, in forward or reverse gears
is
noisy or has no drive
There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility — fluid 1
level.
.
or vibration during acceleration
Rear axle 46
2 3
Noise
Road
noise.
No
corrective procedures available.
and check tire pressures (Chapter 1). Rear wheel bearings loose, worn or damaged (Chapter 10).
Tire noise. Inspect tires
Brakes Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the tires are in good condition and inflated properly (see Chapter 1), that the front end alignment is correct and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner.
47 1
Before taking the vehicle to a repair shop, check the level and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter 1 Correct fluid level as necessary or change the fluid and filter if needed. If the problem persists, have a professional diagnose the probable cause. 2
Shudder
Excessive joint angle. Have checked and correct as necessary 1 (Chapter 8). Worn or damaged inboard or outboard joints. Repair or replace as 2 necessary (Chapter 8). Sticking inboard joint assembly. Correct or replace as necessary 3 (Chapter 8).
1
40
seals.
to the complexity of the
automatic transaxle, it is difficult diagnose and service this component. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer or reputable mechanic. Note:
damaged
Vehicle pulls to one side during braking
damaged
contaminated disc brake pads on one Chapter 9. Excessive wear of brake pad material or disc on one side. Inspect Defective,
or
oil
side. Inspect as described in
2
and correct as necessary. 3 Loose or disconnected front suspension components. Inspect and all bolts to the specified torque (Chapter 10). Defective caliper assembly. Remove caliper and inspect for stuck piston or other damage (Chapter 9).
tighten
4
42
Fluid leakage
1 Automatic transaxle fluid is a deep red color. Fluid leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown by air flow to the transaxle.
To pinpoint a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from 2 around the transaxle. Degreasing agents and/or steam cleaning will achieve this. With the underside clean, drive the vehicle at low speeds so air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak is coming from. Common areas of leakage are: a)
Pan: Tighten mounting bolts and/or replace pan gasket as
b)
necessary (see Chapters 1 and 7). Filler pipe: Replace the rubber seal where pipe enters transaxle case.
Transaxle oil lines: Tighten connectors where lines enter transaxle case and/or replace lines.
48
Noise (high-pitched squeal without the brakes applied)
Disc brake pads worn out. The noise comes from the wear sensor rubbing against the disc (does not apply to all vehicles). Replace pads with new ones immediately (Chapter 9).
49
Excessive brake pedal travel
Partial brake system failure. Inspect entire system (Chapter 9) and 1 correct as required. Insufficient fluid in master cylinder. Check (Chapter 1 ), add fluid 2 and bleed system if necessary (Chapter 9).
Troubleshooting
26
3 Rear brakes not adjusting properly. Make a series of starts and stops while the vehicle is in reverse. If this does not correct the situation, remove drums and inspect self-adjusters (Chapter 9).
56
Excessive pitching and/or
rolling
around corners
or during braking
Defective shock absorbers. Replace as a set (Chapter 10). Broken or weak springs and/or suspension components. Inspect as described in Chapter 10. 1
50
Brake pedal feels spongy
2
when depressed
1 Air in hydraulic lines. Bleed the brake system (Chapter 9). 2 Faulty flexible hoses. Inspect all system hoses and lines. Replace parts as necessary. Master cylinder mounting bolts/nuts loose. 3 4 Master cylinder defective (Chapter 9).
51
57
Excessively
power steering
1
Lack of
2
Incorrect
3
Lack of lubrication at steering joints (Chapter 1). Front end out of alignment. See also section titled Lack of power assistance.
4
Excessive effort required to stop vehicle
steering
stiff
5
fluid in tire
fluid reservoir
pressures (Chapter
(Chapter
11
1).
Power brake booster not operating properly (Chapter 9). Excessively worn linings or pads. Inspect and replace if necessary
1
2
(Chapter 9). 3 One or more caliper pistons or wheel cylinders seized or sticking. Inspect and rebuild as required (Chapter 9). 4 Brake linings or pads contaminated with oil or grease. Inspect and replace as required (Chapter 9). 5 New pads or shoes installed and not yet seated. It will take a while for the new material to seat against the drum (or rotor).
58
Excessive play
Pedal travels to the floor with
little
3
53
no
fluid in
cylinder(s), leaking caliper piston(s), loose,
2
Steering
Suspension and steering systems
drivebelt faulty or not adjusted properly (Chapter
low (Chapter
Hoses
or lines restricted. Inspect
power steering system. Bleed system (Chapter
1
2 3
4
61
1
Excessive Incorrect
tire
tire
wear
and replace parts as necessary. 10).
one area)
(not specific to
pressures (Chapter
Tires out of balance.
1).
Have professionally balanced.
Wheels damaged. Inspect and replace as necessary. Suspension or steering components excessively worn (Chapter
Excessive
tire
1 ).
1).
Air in
3
10).
wear on outside edge
(Chapter 1). Excessive speed in turns. Front end alignment incorrect (excessive toe-in). Have professionInflation pressures incorrect
ally aligned.
4
uneven (Chapter
pump
Fluid level
3
2
Vehicle pulls to one side
'
4
60
Brake pedal pulsates during brake application
1 Wheel bearings not adjusted properly or in need of replacement (Chapter 1 ). 2 Caliper not sliding properly due to improper installation or obstructions. Remove and inspect (Chapter 9). 3 Rotor defective. Remove the rotor (Chapter 9) and check for excessive lateral runout and parallelism. Have the rotor resurfaced or replace it with a new one.
54
0).
resistance
the master cylinder reservoir caused by leaking damaged or disconnected brake lines. Inspect entire system and correct as necessary. Little or
1
Lack of power assistance
1
wheel
steering
Loose front wheel bearings (Chapter 1). Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter Steering gearbox out of adjustment (Chapter 10).
1
2
59 52
in
1
Tire pressures
2 3
Defective tire (Chapter 1). Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter
Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chapter
10).
1).
62
Excessive
tire
wear on
inside
edge
10).
4 5
Front end in need of alignment. Front brakes dragging. Inspect brakes as described
in
Chapter
9.
1
Inflation pressures incorrect (Chapter 1).
2
Front end
alignment incorrect (toe-out).
Have professionally
aligned.
55
Shimmy, shake
3
Tire or wheel out-of-balance or out-of-round. Have professionally 1 balanced. Loose, worn or out-of-adjustment wheel bearings (Chapters 1 2
and
Loose or damaged steering components (Chapter
10).
or vibration
8).
Shock absorbers and/or suspension components worn or 3 (Chapter 10).
damaged
63
Tire tread
worn
in
one place
1
Tires out of balance.
2
Damaged
or buckled wheel. Inspect
3
Defective
tire
(Chapter
1).
and replace
if
necessary.
Chapter
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
Contents element, PCV valve and crankcase vent module maintenance Battery check and maintenance Brake check Carburetor choke check Carburetor mounting nut torque check
Fuel
Air filter
15
27 18 17
Fuel Fluid
replacement level checks
filter
23 32 21 refilling)
....
1
inlet air
Spark plug replacement Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement
11
Compression check Cooling system check Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and Engine drivebelt check and adjustment Engine idle speed check and adjustment Engine oil and filter change Exhaust system check
20
system general check Ignition timing check and adjustment Introduction to routine maintenance Routine maintenance schedule Heated
8
Chassis lubrication Clutch pedal free play check
system check
General information
Steering shaft seal lubrication Suspension and steering check Tire and tire pressure checks
28 14 29
Underhood hose check and replacement Valve adjustment (2.6L engine only) Wheel bearing check and repack Windshield wiper blade element removal and installation ....
9
4
Specifications
Note: Additional Specifications
and torque requirements can be found
in
each individual Chapter.
Quick reference capacities Engine oil (including 2.2L engine 2.6L engine Fuel tank
US
filter)
Metric 3.8 liters 4.8 liters
4.0 qts 5.0 qts 1
56.8
5 gal
liters
Automatic transaxle (1983)
From
dry, including torque converter
Transaxle drain and
refill
(all)
Manual transaxle 4-speed 5-speed
Power steering system Cooling system 2.2L engine 2.6L engine
8.9 qts* 3.8 qts
8.4 liters** 4.0 liters
2.0 qts 2.3 qts 2.5 pts
2.1 liters
1
1
8.5 qts 9.5 qts
.8 liters
.2 liters
8.1 liters
9.0
liters
*9.2 qts fleet
**8.7
liters fleet
Recommended Engine
lubricants
and
Manual and automatic transaxle Transaxle shift linkage Cluch linkage
fluid
Power steering reservoir Brake system and master cylinder Carburetor choke shaft Engine coolant Parking brake mechanism Chassis lubrication Steering shaft seal Rear wheel bearing
fluids Consult your owner's manual or local dealer for recommendations on the particular service grade and viscosity oil for your area
oil
DEXRON
II
ATF
NLGI No. 2 chassis grease NLGI No. 2 chassis grease Mopar 4-253 power steering
DOT
3 brake
fluid or
30 2 3 12 13 25 24 5
Tire rotation
22 10
19
equivalent
fluid
Mopar combustion chamber conditioner No. 2933500 or equivalent 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and water White lithium-based grease NLGI No. 2 NLGI No. 2 EP chassis grease NLGI No. 2 EP grease NLGI No. 2 EP grease
6 16 31
26 7
28
Chapter
Recommended
lubricants
and
1
Tune-up and routine maintenance
fluids (continued) API GL-4 SAE 90 oil Engine oil NLGI No. 2 multi-purpose grease
Steering gear
Hood and door Door hinge
half
hinges/liftgate hinges
and check spring
Sliding door tracks, center hinge pivot
and open position
striker spring
Sliding door rear latch striker shaft
and wedge
Key lock cylinders Hood latch assembly Door latch striker
NLGI no. 2 EP grease Water resistant multi-purpose lubricant Graphite spray
Mopar Lubriplate or equivalent Mopar Door Ease No. 3744859
or equivalent
Ignition system Spark plug type Spark plug gap 2.2L engine 2.6L engine Spark plug wire resistance 2.2L engine 2.6L engine
0.035 0.040
Ignition timing
See Emission Control Information label
Firing order
1-3-4-2
Champion RN12Y in
(0.9
in
(1.0
mm) mm)
3000 ohms per foot minimum/7200 ohms Less than 22K ohms in
per foot
maximum
engine compartment
Drivebelt deflection Alternator
2.2L engine
New
1/8 1/4
Used
mm) mm)
in (3 in (6
2.6L engine
New
1/4
in (6'
mm) mm)
New
1/4
in (6
mm)
Used
7/16
3/16
Used Power steering pump
(4
in
2.2L engine in
(1
1
mm
2.6L engine
New Used Water Pump
1/4 3/8
in
(6
in
(9
1/8 1/4
in (3
mm) mm)
2.2L engine
New Used
in (6
mm) mm)
2.6L engine
Air
New
5/16
Used
3/8
Pump
in
in
mm) mm)
(8
(9
(2.2L engine)
New
3/16
Used
1/4
Air conditioning
in
mm) mm)
(5
in (6
compressor
2.2L engine
New
5/16
Used
3/8
in
New
1/4
in (6
Used
5/16
in
mm) mm)
(8
(9
2.6L engine
2.
in
mm) mm)
(8
6L engine valve clearance (hot engine)
Intake and jet valves
Exaust valves Idle speed
0.006 0.010
in
(0.1 5
mm)
(0.25 mm) See Emission Control Information label in
Compression pressure 2.2L engine 2.6L engine
Torque specifications Manual transaxle fill plug Oil pan drain plug 2.2L engine 2.6L engine Spark plugs
Wheel
lug nuts
Carburetor mounting nuts 2.2L engine 2.6L engine
130 to 150 149 psi
psi
(100
Ft-lbs
Nm
24
33
20
27 25 28 129
19
20 95 17 12.5
23 17
in
engine compartment
29
* o 2
1
jo
CO f^ oo 05
4)
O
c §
o
3
.c
9) Q."-Q
»)
c
03 tt
'5>
c
*- *.
10
E
.0 •6
o o
*
0.0)0
c
10 fQ
E
S J O
a
C
to
o
c
c .o i Tap the new camshaft seal broad end of a punch and
14.15
15.2
1
5
in
14.18
into place with the
a
Measuring camshaft end play with a
dial indicator
hammer
air pump pulley bolt while holding the pulley with a breaker bar
Tighten the
Press the camshaft seals into the end bearing caps and seat them place with a hammer and the large end of a drift punch (see
15.5
15
Seat the new end seals in the valve cover by pulling the tabs through the holes with pliers
External engine
components
—
installation
illustration).
16 The camshaft end play can be checked with
a dial indicator set
or a feeler gauge.
used, gently pry the camshaft all the way toward the front of the engine. Slip a feeler gauge between the flange at the front of tne camshaft and the front bearing cap. Compare the measured end play to the Specifications. 18 If a dial indicator is used, mount it at the front of the engine with the indicator stem touching the end of the camshaft. Carefully pry the camshaft all the way toward the front of the engine, then zero the indicator. Gently pry the camshaft as far as possible in the opposite direction and observe the needle movement on the dial indicator, which will indicate the amount of end play. Compare the reading to the Specifications (see illustration).
17
If
a feeler
gauge
is
Refer to illustrations 15.2 and 15.5 1 Install the camshaft drivebelt sprocket, making sure it is properly aligned (Section 6). Install the retaining bolt finger-tight. 2 Install the air injection pump pulley and bolt. Lock the pulley to keep it from turning and tighten the bolt to the specified torque (see
illustration).
3 Lock the air pump pulley to keep it from turning and tighten the camshaft timing belt sprocket bolt to the specified torque. 4 Install and adjust the timing belt (Section 6).
Attach new seals to the valve cover (see illustration). Apply a 1 /8-inch bead of RTV sealant around the sealing surface of the valve cover, place the cover in place and press down to seat it. Install the retaining bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. 5
6
1
1
Chapter 2 Part B Install the air pump mount. 7 Place the PCV valve vent mount in place, work it into the valve 8 cover and retain it with the clip. Place the exhaust manifold and gasket in position, lubricate the 9 mounting stud threads with white lithium-based grease and install the nuts. Tighten them to the specified torque in a criss-cross pattern. 10 Install the intake manifold and bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque in increments, working from the center to the ends. 1 Apply anti-seize compound to the EGR valve flare nut and mounting studs. Place the valve and gasket assembly in position and install the nuts finger-tight. Thread the tube into the manifold, place the flange in position on the valve and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts and flare nut evenly and securely. 12 Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the oxygen sensor and install it in the exhaust manifold. 13 Apply RTV sealant to the contact surfaces on both sides of the carburetor spacer. Place the spacer in position, install the nuts and
them
securely. the carburetor (Chapter 4). Connect the PCV valve and hose assembly between the carburetor 1 5 and the vent module. 16 Attach the engine mount to the front of the engine. 17 Install the lower timing belt cover, followed by the upper cover. 18 Install the water pump. 19 Install the fuel pump. 20 Lubricate the O-ring on the shaft with white lithium-based grease and install the distributor (Chapter 5). 21 Install the water outlet and the thermostat. 22 Install the heater water outlet. 23 Install the coolant temperature switch and the temperature vacuum switch (TVS) in the water outlet housing. 24 Install the oil pressure switch. 25 Install the water temperature sensor in the cylinder head. tighten
14
Install
2.2L engine
16
Engine
—
83
installation
1 Attach the hoist to the engine, carefully lower the engine into the engine compartment and rejoin it with the transaxle. 2 Align the engine mounts and install all bolts/nuts finger tight. Do not tighten any of the bolts/nuts until all of them have been installed. Install the transaxle-to-engine bolts and tighten them securely. 3 Remove the hoist and the transaxle supports. 4 Attach the engine ground strap and install the right engine splash
shield. Install the starter and connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. 5 6 On vehicles with a manual transaxle, install the lower transmission case cover and hook up the clutch cable. On vehicles with an automatic transaxle, remove the C-clamp from 7 the housing and align the driveplate and torque converter. Install the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque, then install the lower transmission case cover. Install the power steering pump and drivebelt. 8 9 Install the alternator and drivebelt. 1 Hook up the fuel and vapor lines, the throttle cable and the heater hoses. 1 Reattach the wires to the engine, carburetor and alternator. 1 2 Install a new oil filter and fill the crankcase with the specified oil (Chapter 1). 13 Install the air conditioning compressor and drivebelt. 1 4 Install the radiator and fan assembly and hook up the radiator hoses, then refill the cooling system (Chapter 1). 15 Install the air cleaner assembly and the hoses. 16 Install the battery and connect the cables (positive first, then
negative).
17
Install
the hood (Chapter 12).
Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures Contents Crankshaft — inspection Crankshaft — installation and main bearing oil clearance check Crankshaft — removal Cylinder head — cleaning and inspection Cylinder head — disassembly Cylinder head — reassembly Engine block — cleaning Engine block — inspection Engine overhaul — disassembly sequence Engine overhaul — general information Engine overhaul — reassembly sequence
16
Engine rebuilding alternatives Engine removal — methods and precautions General information Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul Main and connecting rod bearings — inspection Piston/connecting rod assembly — inspection Piston/connecting rod assembly — installation and bearing oil clearance check Piston/connecting rod assembly — removal
19 12 8 7 10 13 14 6 3
Piston rings — installation Repair operations possible with the engine Valves — servicing
21
Specifications
2.6L engine General Displacement Bore and stroke
2.6
Firing order
1-3-4-2
Compression ratio Compression pressure
8.7:1
liters (1 56 cu in) 3.59 x 3.86 in (91.19 x 98.04
149
psi at
mm)
250 rpm
Valve timing Intake valve
25° 59°
Opens (BTDC) Closes (ABDC) Exhaust valve
64° 20°
Opens (BBDC) Closes (ATDC) Jet valve
Opens (BTDC) Closes (ABDC) Oil
pressure (engine warm)
.
.
.
25° 59° 45 to 90
psi at
3000 rpm
(6 psi at idle)
Engine block Cylinder bore diameter Taper and out-of-round
3.59 limit
.
.
in
0.0008
(91.2 in
mm)
(0.020
mm)
Silent Shaft Front bearing journal diameter Front bearing oil clearance Rear bearing journal diameter Rear bearing oil clearance .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
0.906 in (23.01 mm) 0.0008 to 0.0024 in (0.020 1.693 in (43.00 mm) 0.0020 to 0.0035 in (0.051
to 0.061 to
mm)
0.089 mm)
in
the vehicle ....
4 5 1
22 17 15
20 11
18 2 9
1
Chapter 2 Part C Pistons
and
General engine overhaul procedures
rings
3.5866
Piston diameter Piston ring-to-groove clearance
mm)
(91.100
in
Standard
0.0024 to 0.0039 in (0.061 to 0.099 mm) 0.008 to 0.0024 in (0.02 to 0.061 mm) Side rails must rotate freely after assembly
Top ring Second ring Oil ring
Service
limit
0.006 in (0.I5 mm) 0.0039 in (0.099 mm)
Top ring Second ring Piston ring end gap
Standard
Top ring Second ring Oil ring
Service
0.010 0.010 0.008
to
0.039 0.039 0.059
in
0.018 0.018 0.035
to
to
(0.25 to 0.46 (0.25 to 0.46 (0.20 to 0.89
in in in
mm) mm) mm)
limit
Top ring Second ring Oil ring
mm) mm) mm)
(0.99 (0.99 (1.50
in in
Crankshaft and flywheel Main journal diameter Taper and out-of-round limit Main bearing oil clearance Connecting rod journal diameter Connecting rod bearing oil clearance Connecting rod side clearance .... Crankshaft end play Flywheel clutch face runout limit .
.
.
.
.
2.3622 in (60.000 mm) 0.0004 in (0.010 mm) 0.0008 to 0.003 in (0.020 to 0.071 2.0866 in (53.000 mm) 0.0008 to 0.0028 in (0.020 to 0.071 0.004 to 0.010 in (0.10 to 0.25 mm) 0.002 to 0.007 in (0.05 to 0.18 mm) 0.020 in (0.51 mm)
Camshaft Bearing oil clearance Lobe height (intake and exhaust)
Standard Service End play
limit
Cylinder head and valve train Head warpage limit Valve seat angle Valve seat margin width Intake
Exhaust Valve stem-to-guide clearance
0.002
0.004
to
(0.05 to 0.10
in
1.6614 in (42.200 mm) 1.6414 in (41.692 mm) 0.004 to 0.008 in (0.10
0.004
to
mm)
0.20 mm)
mm)
in
(0.10
to
0.047 0.079
45° 0.028 0.039
to
in
(0.71 to
19 mm)
in
(0.99 to
01
mm)
Intake
Standard Service
limit
Exhaust Standard Service limit Valve spring free length
Standard Service limit Valve spring pressure (lbs at specified length) Out-of-square service limit Valve spring installed height
Standard Service limit Jet Valve
Stem diameter Seat angle Spring free length Spring pressure Valve clearance (HOT engine) Intake
Exhaust Jet valve
0.0012 to 0.0024 in (0.031 0.004 in (0.10 mm)
to 0.061
0.0020 to 0.0035 in (0.051 0.006 in (0.15 mm)
to
1.869 1.479
in
in
(47.47 (46.57
61 lbs at
1
.59
mm)
0.089 mm)
mm) mm) (273 N
in
at
40.4 mm)
3° max 1.590 1.629
in in
0.1693
(40.39 (41.38
in
mm) mm)
(4.300
mm)
45° 1.165
in
(29.59
5.5 lbs at 0.846
mm) in
(24 5
Nm
at
21.49 mm)
0.006 in (0.15 mm) 0.010 in (0.25 mm) 0.006 on (0.15 mm)
Timing belt tensioner Spring free length Spring load
2.587 4.4 lbs
in
(65.71
at
1.453
mm) in
(19 6 N at 36.91
mm)
85
Chapter 2 Part C
86
Oil
General engine overhaul procedures
Pump
opening pressure Gear-to-housing clearance Gear-to-pump body bearing clearance Gear-to-pump cover bearing clearance Gear end play Relief valve
Drive
Driven Relief spring free length Relief spring load Oil pressure switch minimum actuating pressure
Torque specifications Main bearing cap bolts Connecting rod bearing cap nuts
49.8
64.0
to
0.0043 0.0008 0.0016
to
0.0020 0.0016
to
to to
to
psi
(343.4 to 441.3 kPa) in (0.109 to 0.1 50 mm) in (0.020 to 0.051 mm) in (0.041 to 0.071 mm)
0.0059 0.0020 0.0028 0.0043 0.0039
in in
(0.051 to 0.109 (0.041 to 0.099
1.850 in (46.99 mm) 9.5 lbs at 1.575 in (42.3 N at 40.01 4 psi (28 kPa) or less Ft-lbs
Nrr
58
79 46
34
mm) mm) mm)
2.2L engine General Displacement Bore and stroke Compression pressure
Maximum
variation
1
35 cu
between cylinders
(2.2
in
liters)
3.62 in (87.4 x 92.0 mm) 1 30 to 1 50 psi (896 to 1 034 kPa) 20 psi (138 kpa)
3.44
x
Valve timing Intake valve
16° BTDC
Opens
48° ABDC
Closes Exhaust valve
52° BBDC 12° ATDC
Opens Oil
Closes pressure
1984 1985 1986
(at (at (at
2000 rpm) 3000 rpm) 3000 rpm)
40 25 25
psi
to to
(276 kPa) psi (172 to 620 kPa) psi (172 to 552 kPa)
90 80
Engine block 3.44 in (87.4 mm) 0.005 in (0.127 mm) 0.002 in (0.05 mm)
Cylinder bore diameter
Taper limit Out-of-round
limit
and
Pistons
rings
Piston diameter
3.443
to
3.445
in
(87.45 to 87.50
mm)
Piston ring-to-groove clearance
Standard
Top 2nd
0.0015 to 0.0031 in (0.038 0.0015 to 0.0037 in (0.038 0.008 in (0.20 mm)
ring ring
Oil ring
Service
Top 2nd
to to
0.079 mm) 0.094 mm)
limit
0.004 0.004
ring ring
in
in
(0.10 (0.10
mm) mm)
Piston ring end gap
Standard
Top 2nd
ring
0.01 1 to 0.021 0.011 to 0.021 0.01 5 to 0.055
ring
Oil ring
Service
Top 2nd
in in in
(0.28 to 0.53 (0.28 to 0.53 (0.38 to 1 .40
mm) mm) mm)
limit
ring
0.039 0.039 0.074
ring
Oil ring
mm) mm) (1.88 mm)
in
(1.0
in
(1.0
in
Crankshaft and flywheel Main journal Diameter Taper limit Out-of-round
Main bearing
oil
2.362 to 2.363 in (60.00 in (0.010 mm) in (0.013 mm)
limit
0.0003 to 0.0031 in (0.008 0.004 in (0.10 mm)
limit
Connecting rod journal diameter Connecting rod bearing oil clearance Standard .
Service limit
60.02 mm)
clearance
Standard Service
to
0.0004 0.0005
.
.
1.968
to
1.969
in
to
0.079 mm)
(49.99 to 50.01
0.0008 to 0.0034 in (0.020 0.004 in (0.10 mm)
to
mm)
0.086 mm)
Chapter 2 Part C Connecting rod side clearance Crankshaft end play Standard Service
limit
General engine overhaul procedures 0.013
in
(0.13 to 0.33
mm)
in
(0.05 to 0.18
mm)
0.005
to
0.002 0.014
to
0.007
in
(0.36
0.005 0.020 1.375
to
0.013
in
(0.51
0.005 0.010
in in
(0.13 (0.25
mm) mm)
0.004
in
(0.10
mm)
to
0.088 0.078
mm)
Camshaft End play Standard Service limit Bearing journal diameter Camshaft lobe wear limit
1984 1985 and 1986
Cylinder
head and valve
Head warpage
in
1.376
to
(0.13 to 0.33
mm)
mm) in
(34.93 to 34.95
mm)
train
limit
45°
Valve seat angle Valve seat width
0.069 0.059
Intake
Exhaust Valve face angle Valve margin width
to
1.75 to 2.24 1.50 to 1 .98
in in
mm) mm)
45°
Intake
1/32 3/64
Exhaust Valve stem diameter Intake
Exhaust Valve head diameter Intake
Exhaust Valve stem-to-guide clearance Intake
Exhaust Valve spring free length
1984 1985 and 1986
mm) mm)
in
(.79
in
(1.19
7.935 mm) 7.882 mm)
0.3124 0.3103
in
1.60 1.39
(40.6 (35.3
in in
in
0.0026 0.0047
0.0009 0.0030
to
2.28 2.39
(57.9 (60.7
in in
to
mm) mm) in in
(0.023 to 0.066 (0.076 to 0.1 19
mm) mm)
mm) mm)
Valve spring installed height Intake
.62 to 1 .68 .62 to 1 .68 Hydraulic
Exhaust Valve lash adjustment Collapsed tappet gap Spring seat-to-valve *
Must be checked
tip if
dimension*
1
in
(41 .2 to
1
in
(41 .2 to
0.024 1.960
to
42.67 19.67
to
42.73
42.7 mm) 42.7 mm)
mm) mm)
0.060 2.009
in
(0.61 to
in
(49.76 to 51.04
to
42.70 19.70
mm mm
to
42.75
mm
to
1
.52
valve faces or seats are reground
Intermediate shaft Journal diameter Large Small Bearing inside diameter Large Small Oil clearance
19.72 to 19.75 mm 0.08 mm maximum
pump
Oil Outer rotor-to-housing bore clearance Outer rotor thickness limit
limit
1984 and 1985 1986
mm)
0.014
in
(0.36
0.825 0.943
in
(20.96 (23.95
in
mm) mm)
Inner rotor-to-outer rotor tip clearance limit
1984 and 1985 1986 Rotor-to-housing clearance limit Pump cover warpage limit Relief spring free length limit Relief spring pressure limit (minimum) ....
Torque specifications Main bearing cap bolt Connecting rod bearing cap nut *
Plus 1/4-turn
(0.25 mm) (0.20 mm) in (0.10 mm) in (0.38 mm) 1.95 in (49.5 mm) 20 lbs at 1.34 in (89 N at
0.010 0.008 0.004 0.015
in in
Ft-lbs
Nm
30* 40*
41* 54*
34
mm
87
Chapter 2 Part C
88
1
General engine overhaul procedures
General information
part of Chapter 2 are the general overhaul procedures head and internal engine components. This information ranges from advice about preparing for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts to detailed, step-by-step procedures covering removal and installation of internal engine components and the inspec-
Included
in this
for the cylinder
the following Sections, it is assumed that the engine has been vehicle. For information concerning removal and installation of the engine and its external components, see Part A or B of this Chapter and Section 2 of this Part. The specifications included here in Part B are only those necessary for the inspection and overhaul procedures which follow. Refer to Part In
removed from the
or
solution.
An engine
overhaul involves restoring the internal parts to the new engine. During an overhaul, the piston rings are replaced and the cylinder walls are reconditioned (rebored and/or honed). If a rebore is done, new pistons are required. The main and connecting rod bearings are replaced with new ones and, if necessary, the crankshaft may be reground to restore the journals. Generally, the valves are serviced as well, since they are usually in less-than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as the carburetor, distributor, starter and alternator, can be rebuilt as well. The end result should be a like new engine that will specifications of a
tion of parts.
A
and compare it to the Specifications. If it is extremely low, the bearings and/or oil pump are probably worn out. Loss of power, rough running, excessive valve train noise and high fuel consumption rates may also point to the need for an overhaul, especially if they are all present at the same time. If a complete tuneup does not remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only
B for additional specifications.
give
2
Repair operations possible with the engine
in
the vehicle
Many major repair operations can be accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle. It is a very good idea to clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with some type of pressure washer before any work is begun. A clean engine will make the job easier and will prevent the possibility of getting dirt into internal areas of the engine. Remove the hood (Chapter 1 1 and cover the fenders to provide as much working room as possible and to prevent damage to the painted )
surfaces. If oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be made with the engine in the vehicle. The oil pan gasket, the cylinder head gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, timing cover gaskets and the front crankshaft oil seal are accessible with the engine in place. Exterior engine components, such as the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator, the distributor, the fuel pump and the carburetor, as well as the intake and exhaust manifolds, are quite easily removed for repair with the engine in place. Since the cylinder head can be removed without pulling the engine, valve component servicing can also be accomplished with the engine in the vehicle. Replacement of, repairs to or inspection of the timing sprockets and chain, the Silent Shaft and chain assembly, the oil pump and front cover seals are all possible with the engine in place. In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment, repair or replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and rod bearings and reconditioning of the cylinder bores is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recommended because of the cleaning and preparation work that must be done to the com-
ponents involved. Detailed removal, inspection, repair and installation procedures for the above mentioned components can be found in the appropriate Part of Chapter 2 or the other Chapters in this manual.
3
Engine overhaul
—
general information
It is not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, as a number of factors must be considered. High mileage is not necessarily an indication that an overhaul is needed, while low mileage does not preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably the most important consideration. An engine which has had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, will most likely give many thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require an overhaul very early in its life. Excessive oil consumption is an indication that piston rings and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil leaks are not responsible before deciding that the rings and guides are bad. Have a cylinder compression or leakdown test performed by an experienced tune-up mechanic to determine the extent of the work required. If the engine is making obvious knocking or rumbling noises, the connecting rod and/or main bearings are probably at fault. Check the oil pressure with a gauge installed in place of the oil pressure sending unit
many
trouble free miles.
Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through the entire procedure to familiarize yourself with the scope and requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult, but it is time consuming. Plan on the vehicle being tied up for a minimum of two weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an automotive machine shop for repair or reconditioning. Check on availability of parts and make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand tools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required for inspecting parts to determine if they must be replaced. Often an automotive machine shop will handle the inspection of parts and offer advice concerning reconditioning and replacement. Note: Always wait until the engine has been completely disassembled and all components, especially the engine block, have been inspected before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an automotive machine shop. Since the condition of the block will be the major factor to consider when determining whether to overhaul the original engine or buy a rebuilt one, never purchase parts or have machine work done on other components until the block has been thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay to install worn or substandard parts.
As
a final note, to
maximum life and minimum trouble from must be assembled with care in a spotlessly
ensure
a rebuilt engine, everything
clean environment.
4
Engine rebuilding alternatives
faced with a number of options when performThe decision to replace the engine block, piston/connecting rod assemblies and crankshaft depends on a number of factors, especially the condition of the block. Other considerations are cost, access to machine shop facilities, parts availability, time required to complete the project and experience. Some of the rebuilding alternatives include: Individual parts — If the inspection procedures reveal that the engine block and most engine components are in reusable condition, purchasing individual parts may be the most economical alternative. The block, crankshaft and piston/connecting rod assemblies should all be inspected carefully. Even if the block shows little wear, the cylinder bores should receive a finish hone. Crankshaft kit — This rebuild package consists of a reground crankshaft and a matched set of pistons and connecting rods. The pistons will already be installed on the connecting rods. Piston rings and the necessary bearings will be included in the kit. These kits are commonly available for standard cylinder bores, as well as for engine
The
do-it-yourselfer
is
ing an engine overhaul.
blocks which have been bored to a regular oversize. Short block — A short block consists of an engine block with a crankshaft and piston/connecting rod assemblies already installed. All new bearings are incorporated and all clearances will be correct. The existing camshaft, valve train components, cylinder head and external parts can be bolted to the short block with little or no machine shop
work necessary. Long block — A long block consists
of a short block plus an oil pump, pan, cylinder head, cylinder head cover, camshaft and valve train components, timing sprockets and belt/chain and timing cover. All comoil
Chapter 2 Part C
General engine overhaul procedures
ponents are installed with new bearings, seals and gaskets incorporated throughout. The installation of manifolds and external parts is all that is necessary. Give careful thought to which alternative is best for you and discuss the situation with local automotive machine shops, auto parts dealers or parts store countermen before ordering or purchasing replacement parts.
5
Engine removal
— methods
and precautions
Fuel
89
pump
Engine mounts Flywheel/driveplate Note: When removing the external components from the engine, pay close attention to details that may be helpful or important during installation. Note the installed position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins, washers, bolts and other small items. If you are obtaining a short block, which consists of the engine 4 block, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods all assembled, then the cylinder head, oil pan and oil pump will also have to be removed from the old engine. See Section 4 for additional information regarding the alternatives.
has been decided that an engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, certain preliminary steps should be taken. Locating a suitable work area is extremely important. A shop is, of course, the most desirable place to work. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the vehicle, is very important. If a shop or garage is not available, use a flat, level, clean work surface made of concrete If it
or asphalt.
Cleaning the engine compartment and engine prior to removal
will
help keep tools clean and organized.
An engine hoist or A-frame will also be necessary. Make sure that the equipment is rated in excess of the combined weight of the engine and its accessories. Safety is of primary importance, considering the potential hazards involved in lifting the engine out of the vehicle. If the engine is being removed by a novice, a helper should be Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances in which one person cannot simultaneously perform all of the operations necessary to lift the engine out of the vehicle. Plan the operation ahead of time. Obtain all of the tools and equipment you will need-or know where to get them-prior to beginning the job. Some of the equipment necessary for safe and easy engine removal and installation are an engine hoist, a heavy duty floor jack, complete sets of wrenches and sockets as described in the front of this manual, wooden blocks and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up the inevitable spills. If you plan to rent a hoist, arrange for it in advance and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you available.
money and
If you are planning 5 a complete overhaul, the engine must be disassembled in the following order: External engine components Oil pan Cylinder head cover Timing cover Silent Shaft chain and sprockets (2.6L engine only) Timing belt/chain and sprockets Intermediate shaft and sprocket (2.2L engine only) Cylinder head and camshaft Oil pump (2.2L engine only) Piston/connecting rod assemblies Front oil seal housing (2.2L engine only) Rear oil seal housing Crankshaft Left Silent Shaft (2.6L engine only) Oil pump/right Silent Shaft (2.6L engine only) 6 Before beginning the disassembly and overhaul procedures, make
sure the following items are available:
Common
Micrometers Telescoping gauges Dial indicator set
time.
Valve spring compressor
Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for a considerable period of time.
A machine shop
Cylinder surfacing hone Piston ring groove cleaning tool
must for that work which you cannot accomplish without special skills and equipment. Machine shops often have busy schedules, so it's a good idea to coordinate your plans for overhaul work with your local shop. Careful planning will result in less down is
hand tools
Small cardboard boxes or plastic bags for storing parts Gasket scraper Ridge reamer Vibration damper puller
a
time for your vehicle. Always use extreme caution when removing and installing the engine. Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead. If you take your time and think out each step before you proceed, even a job of this magnitude can be accomplished successfully.
Electric
Tap and
drill
motor
die set
Wire brushes Cleaning solvent
7
Cylinder head
—
disassembly
Refer to illustrations 7.2a, 7.2b and 7.3
6
Engine overhaul
—
disassembly sequence
Note: Cylinder head service involves removal and disassembly of the and exhaust valves and their related components. Because some specialized tools are necessary for disassembly and inspection and because replacement parts are not always readily availintake
much
work on the engine if it is engine stand, which can usually be rented for a reasonable fee from an equipment rental yard. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate should be removed f r om the engine (refer to Part A or B). If you can't find a stand suitable for your engine, you can block 2 it up on a sturdy workbench or on the floor. If you elect to work on the engine in this manner, be extra careful not to tip or drop it. If you are performing a complete engine rebuild yourself, the follow3 ing external components will have to come off. Even if you are going to obtain a rebuilt engine, the same components must still be removed from the old engine so they can be installed on the rebuilt. In general, 1
It
is
mounted on
easier to disassemble and
a portable
this includes:
Alternator and brackets
Emissions control components Distributor, spark plug wires and spark plugs Thermostat and housing
Water pump Carburetor Intake/exhaust manifolds Oil filter
it may be more practical and economical for the home mechanic purchase a replacement head rather than taking the time to disas-
able, to
semble, inspect and recondition the original head. New and rebuilt cylinder heads for most engines are usually available at dealerships and auto parts stores. 1 The jet valves should be removed from the cylinder head or the 2.6L engine before removal of the intake and exhaust valves. Use a six-point socket and a breaker bar to unscrew them. Caution: Do not tilt the socket — excessive force exerted on the valve spring retainers can easily bend the jet valve stems. Label each jet valve to ensure installation in its original position. The jet valves can be disassembled by carefully compressing the spring and removing the keepers, the retainer and the spring. Slide the valve out of the body and pull off the seal with a pair of pliers. Discard the old seals. Use new ones during reassembly. Do not allow the parts for one jet valve assembly to become accidentally interchanged with those of another. Before removing the valves, arrange to label and store them, along 2 with their related components, so they can be stored separately and reinstalled in the same valve guides from which they are removed.
Chapter 2 Part C
90
General engine overhaul procedures
VALVE
TIP
MINIMUM CLEARANCE
SPRING RETAINER
1.25mm
(.050 inch)
i_
T INSTALLED
HEIGHT
On 2.2L
7.2b
engines, the valve spring installed height
is
measured from the upper edge of the retainer (note the minimum clearance required between the rocker arm and retainer
7.2a
—
if
the valves are serviced, the clearance may not be correct)
Measuring the "alve spring installed height with a dial caliper
The Jet
air
Cylinder head
—
8.4
EGR ports and clean and clear
passages,
oil
holes must be
Use a valve spring compressor to compress the valve springs, then remove the keepers from the valve stem (a
7.3
magnet
or needle-nose pliers
may be needed) 8
Measure the valve spring
installed height of
each valve and compare
it to the Specifications (see illustration). If it is greater than specified, the valve seats and faces need attention. Note: On 2.2L engines, the valve spring installed height is measured from the bottom of the spring to the upper edge of the retainer (see illustration). Compress the valve springs on the first valve with a spring com3 pressor and remove the keepers (see illustration). Carefully release the valve spring compressor and remove the retainer, the springs, the valve stem seal, the spring seat and the valve from the head. If the valve binds in tr e guide and won't come out, push it back into the head and deburr the area around the keeper groove with a fine file or whetstone. 4 Repeat this procedure for each of the remaining valves. Remember to keep all the parts for each valve together so they can be reinstalled in the same locations. 5 Once the valves have been removed and safely stored, the head should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected. If a complete engine overhaul is being done, finish the engine disassembly procedures before beginning the cylinder head cleaning and inspection process.
cleaning and inspection
Refer to illustrations 8.4,8.11, 8. 12, 8. 14, 8. 16, 8. 18, 8.20, 8.21, 8.22, 8.24a, 8.24b, 8.25a and 8.25b 1
Thorough cleaning
of the cylinder
8. 19a, 8. 19b,
head and related valve
train
com-
ponents, followed by a detailed inspection, will enable you to decide how much valve service work must be done during the engine overhaul.
Cleaning Scrape away all traces of old gasket material and sealing compound 2 from the head gasket, intake manifold and exhaust manifold sealing surfaces. Caution: Do not gouge the cylinder head. Special gasket removal solvents which dissolve the gasket, making removal much easier, are available at auto parts stores.
3
Remove any
4
Run
the
jet air
up scale around the coolant passages. brush through the oil holes, the EGR gas ports and passages to remove any deposits that may have formed in built
a stiff wire
them (see illustration). 5 Run an appropriate size tap into each of the threaded holes to remove any corrosion and thread sealant that may be present. If compressed
air is
available,
use
it
to clear the holes of debris produced
1
Chapter 2 Part C
General engine overhaul procedures
8.12 8.11
91
The cylinder head can be checked for warpage with a straightedge and feeler gauges
Inspect the camshaft bearing caps for signs of wear and damage such as galling and pitting
Look for wear and damage on the rocker arm and adjusting screw surfaces that contact the cam lobe and valve
8.16
Inspection
8.14
A
dial indicator
can be used to check
for
excessive
valve stem-to-guide clearance
by
this operation.
compressed
air to
Warning: Always wear safety goggles when using
blow away
debris.
Clean the exhaust and intake manifold stud threads with an appropriate size die. Clean the rocker arm pivot bolt or stud threads with 6
a wire brush.
7 Clean the cylinder head with solvent and dry it thoroughly. Compressed air will speed the drying process and ensure that all holes and recessed areas are clean. Note: Decarbonizing chemicals may prove helpful for cleaning cylinder heads and valve train components. They are very caustic and should be used with caution. Be sure to follow the instructions on the container. Without dismantling the rocker arm assembly, clean the rocker 8 arms and shafts with solvent and dry them thoroughly. Compressed air will speed the drying process and can be used to clean out the oil passages. Clean all the valve springs, keepers and retainers with solvent and 9 dry them thoroughly. Clean these assemblies one at a time to avoid mixing up the parts. 1 Scrape off any heavy deposits that may have formed on the valves, then use a motorized wire brush to remove the remaining deposits from the valve heads and stems. Again, do not mix up the valves. If you are servicing the 2.6L cylinder head, you will also want to clean the jet valve components with solvent. Do one jet valve assembly at a time so that the parts are not accidentally interchanged. Carefully remove any deposits from the stems and valve heads with a fine wire brush. Caution: Do not bend the valve stems of the jet valves while cleaning them.
Cylinder head 1 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks, evidence of coolant leakage and other damage. If cracks are discovered, a new cylinder head must be obtained. Check the camshaft bearing surfaces in the head and the bearing caps (see illustration). If there is evidence of excessive cam bearing galling or scoring, the head must be replaced. Failure to do so can lead to camshaft seizure. 12 Using a straightedge and feeler gauge, check the head gasket mating surface for warpage (see illustration). If the warpage exceeds the specified amount, the head should be resurfaced at an automotive machine shop. 1 3 Examine the valve seats in each of the combustion chambers. If they are pitted, cracked or burned, take the head to an automotive machine shop for a valve job. This procedure is byond the scope of the home mechanic. 1 4 Check the valve stem-to-valve guide clearance. Use a dial indicator to measure the lateral movement of each valve stem with the valve in the guide and raised off the seat slightly (see illustration). If there is still some doubt regarding the condition of the valve guides after this check, the exact clearance and condition of the guides can be checked by an automotive machine shop.
Rocker arm assembly (2.2L engine) The rocker arms on the 2.2L engine ride below the camshaft and 1 5 contact the valve stem at one end and the hydraulic lash adjuster at the other end. Check each rocker arm for wear, galling and pitting of the contact surfaces. Inspect the lash adjuster contact surfaces for pitting and wear as well.
Rocker arm assembly (2.6L engine) 1 6 The rocker arms on the 2.6L engine are mounted on shafts that rest in the camshaft bearing caps. The rocker arms contact the valve on one end and the camshaft on the other end. Check the rocker arm faces that contact the camshaft lobes and the ends of the adjusting screws that contact the valve stems. Look for pitting, excessive wear and roughness (see illustration).
92
Chapter 2 Part C
General engine overhaul procedures 17 Check the adjusting screw threads for damage. Make sure they can be threaded in and out of the rocker arms. 1 8 Slide each rocker arm along the shaft, against the locating spring pressure, and check the shaft for excessive wear and evidence of scoring in the areas that normally contact the rocker arms (see illustration). 19 Any damaged or excessively worn parts must be replaced with new ones. Refer to the accompanying exploded view of the rocker arm assembly components for the correct sequence of disassembly and reassembly (see illustrations).
Camshaft 20 Inspect the camshaft bearing journals
for excessive wear and evidence of galling, scoring or seizure (see illustration). If the journals are damaged, the bearing surfaces in the head and bearing caps are probably damaged as well. Both the camshaft and cylinder head will have to be replaced. 21 Check the cam lobes for grooves, flaking, pitting and scoring. Measure the cam lobe height and compare it to the Specifications (see
8.18
Check the rocker arm shafts
OIL HOLES
wear and damage
CAP NO.
SHAFT, RIGHT
SHAFT, LEFT (12
for
illustration). If the lobe height is less than the minimum specified, and/or the lobes are damaged, get a new camshaft. 22 To determine the extent of cam lobe wear on the 2.2L engine,
CAP, REAR
3
AT SHAFT BOTTOM)
AT SHAFT
OIL HOLES
BOTTOM
FRONT BEARING CAP
CAP NO.
4
FRONT OF ENGINE
FRONT OF ENGINE SPRING, 64.5
—
FREE LENGTH:
mm
cylinders. Remember to keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up. Once the ring end gaps have been checked and corrected, the rings 8 can be installed on the pistons. 9 The oil control ring (lowest one on the piston) is installed first. It is composed of three separate components. Slip the spacer/expander into the groove (see illustration), then install the lower side rail with the size mark and manufacturer's stamp facing up. Do not use a piston ring installation tool on the oil ring side rails, as they may be damaged. Instead, place one end of the side rail into the groove between the spacer/expander and the ring land, hold it firmly in place and slide a finger around the piston while pushing the rail into the groove (see illustration). Next, install the upper side rail in the same manner. 10 After the three oil ring components have been installed, check to make sure that both the upper and lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the ring groove. Position the end gaps correctly (see 6
recommended.
illustration).
Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of interrelated causes. Excessive engine operation heat thins the oil. Overloading between journals and bearing surfaces sometimes
a
5
—
of the
The number two (middle) ring is installed next. It is stamped with mark which should face toward the top of the piston (see illustration). Note: Always follow the instructions printed on the ring package or 1
Chapter 2 Part C
prior to
18.9a
Installing the
GAP OF LOWER
to square up the ring in the cylinder checking the ring end gap
Use the piston
18.3a
spacer/expander groove