Haynes Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Automotive Repair Manual 1563921324, 9781563921322

Citation preview

DODGE CARAVAN PLYMOUTH VOYAGER &

CHRYSLER town & country MINI-VANS 1984 thru 1995

aii

fwd models

Automotive Repair Manual

*& &

135 cubic inches 153 cubic inches

2.2L 2.5L

Camshaft Endplay Runout

0.005 to 0.013 inch 0.0004 inch

The blackened terminal shown on the distributor cap indicates the Number

Standard

1

.375 to

1

.376 inch

Oversize

1

.395 to

1

.396 inch

Lobe wear (maximum) 1984 2.2L engine All

others

0.005 inch 0.010 inch

Cylinder head Warpage

0.004 inch

limit

Intake/exhaust manifolds Warpage Oil

0.008 inch per foot of manifold length

limit

pump

Outer rotor-to-housing clearance Standard Service

limit

0.010 inch 0.014 inch

Outer rotor thickness

1984 and 1985 2.2L engines Standard Service All

limit

0.826 to 0.827 inch 0.825 inch

others

Standard Service

limit

One spark plug

w,re pos,t,on

Cylinder location and

Journal diameter

0.944 to 0.945 inch 0.9435 inch

distributor rotation

2

2A

2A-2 Oil

Chapter 2 Part

pump

A

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

(continued)

Inner rotor-to-outer rotor tip clearance

1984 and 1985 2.2L engines Standard Service All

0.010 inch 0.010 inch

limit

others

Standard Service

0.004 inch 0.008 inch

limit

and outer rotor-to-housing clearance Standard

0.001 to 0.003 inch

Service

0.0035 inch

Inner

limit

Pump

cover flatness 1984 and 1985 2.2L engines Standard Service limit

All

0.010 inch 0.015 inch

maximum

Standard

0.002 inch

maximum

Service

0.003 inch

others limit

1.95 inch

Relief spring free length

Torque specifications Camshaft bearing cap 1987 and earlier 1988 on

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

bolts

165 in-lbs

Valve cover bolts/nuts Timing belt tensioner bolt

Camshaft sprocket

bolt

215 105 45 65

in-lbs

250 280 50

in-lbs

in-lbs

Crankshaft pulley Torx head bolts

1992 and 1993

earlier

Crankshaft pulley center bolt Cylinder head bolts

-

engine cold (use the tightening sequence shown

in

in-lbs

Section 12)

1984 and 1985

Third step

30 45 45

Fourth step

1/4-turn

First

step

Second step

1986 on

Third step

45 65 65

Fourth step

1/4-turn

First

step

Second step

Driveplate-to-crankshaft bolts

M10 M12

70 100

Flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts

1984 and 1985 1986 on Crankshaft front

oil

seal housing bolts

Intake/exhaust manifold nuts/bolts Intermediate shaft

oil

seal housing bolts

Intermediate shaft sprocket bolt Oil

in-lbs

16

105 65

in-lbs

pan-to-engine block fasteners

M8 M6

16

pump

Oil

pick-up tube-to-oil

Oil

pump mounting bolts pump cover bolts

Oil

65 70 105

housing bolt

pan drain plug Rear main oil seal housing bolts

Oil

Timing belt cover bolts

Water

pump hub

bolt

105 16

in-lbs

21

105 in-lbs 20 105 in-lbs 40 in-lbs 21

A

Chapter 2 Part

2A-3

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

General information

J

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to invehicle repair procedures for the 2.2L and

2.5L engines. All information concerning engine removal and installation and engine block and cylinder head overhaul can be found in Part E of this Chapter. The following repair procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, many of the steps outlined in this Part of Chapter 2 will not apply.

The Specifications included in this Part Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures contained in this Part. Part E of Chapter 2 contains the Specifications necessary for cylinder head and engine block rebuilding. of

Use a felt-tip marker or chalk to mark the distributor housing directly beneath the number one spark plug

3.6

Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle

Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating

3

you're bringing the

number

through the opening in the bellhousing, and align the mark with the O-degree mark on the bellhousing - you may have to remove a plug from the bellhousing to see

wire terminal

2

When

3.8

one piston to TDC, look at the timing mark on the edge of the f lywheel/dri veplate

the flywheel

Many major

can be accomplished without removing the engine repair operations

from the vehicle. Clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with some type of degreaser before any work is done. It will

make

the job easier and help keep

dirt

out of

the internal areas of the engine.

Depending on the components involved, it may be helpful to remove the hood to improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 1 1 if necessary). Cover the fenders to prevent damage to the paint. Special pads are available, but an old bedspread or blanket will also work. If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be made with the engine in the vehicle. The intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket, crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket are all accessible with the engine in place.

components, such as oil pan pump), the water pump, the

Exterior engine

the intake and exhaust manifolds, the

(and the

oil

starter motor, the alternator, the distributor

and the removed

fuel

system components can be

engine in place. Since the cylinder head can be removed without pulling the engine, camshaft and valve

for repair with the

component

servicing

can also be

accomplished with the engine in the vehicle. Replacement of the timing belt and sprockets is also possible with the engine in the vehicle. In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment, repair or replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and rod bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recommended because of the cleaning and preparation work that must be done to the components involved.

Refer to illustrations 3.6 and 3.8 Note: The following procedure is based on the assumption that the spark plug wires and distributor are correctly installed. If you are trying to locate

TDC

A remote

which may save can also be used. Follow the instructions included with the switch. Once the piston is close to TDC, use a socket and ratchet as described in the

b)

some

to install the distributor

must be determined compression at the number one

correctly, piston position

by

feeling for

previous paragraph. c)

spark plug hole, then aligning the ignition timing marks as described in Step 8. In the event of timing belt breakage, remove the timing belt cover and align the marks on the

If

in

Step

in

short bursts, you can get the piston close to TDC without a remote starter

Make sure your assistant is out of the vehicle, away from the ignition switch, then use a socket and ratchet as switch.

is

the highest

the cylinder that each piston reaches

when

the

TDC

it

travels

up-and-down

on the compression stroke and again on the exhaust stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston position on the compression stroke. Positioning the piston(s) at TDC is an 2 essential part of many procedures such as camshaft and timing belt/sprocket removal and distributor removal. 3 Before beginning this procedure, be sure to place the transmission

in

Neutral

and

apply the parking brake or block the rear wheels. Also, disable the ignition system by detaching the coil wire from the center terminal of the distributor cap and grounding it on the block with a jumper wire. Remove the spark plugs (see Chapter 1). 4 In order to bring any piston to TDC, the crankshaft must be turned using one of the

methods

outlined below.

front of the engine, tion

is

described

in

Paragraph

a) to

complete

the procedure.

crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches

as

available to turn the

is

4.

Top Dead Center (TDC)

1

point

an assistant

ignition switch to the Start position in

camshaft sprocket as shown in illustration 6. 19, then align the mark on the flywheel with the correct mark on the timing scale as directed

starter switch,

time,

When

looking at the

normal crankshaft rota-

Note the position

5

of the terminal for the

number one spark plug cap.

If

the terminal

plug wire from the

wire on the distributor

isn't

marked, follow the

number one

cylinder spark

plug to the cap.

Use a felt-tip pen or chalk to make a mark on the distributor body directly under

6

the terminal (see illustration).

Detach the cap from the distributor and aside (see Chapter 1 if necessary). 8 Locate the round window in the bellhousing. You'll see the timing increments on the edge of the window. Turn the crankshaft (see Paragraph 3 above) until the TDC mark (zero) on the edge of the bellhousing is aligned with the groove in the flywheel (see 7

set

it

illustration).

9

Look

- it should be mark you made on the

at the distributor rotor

pointing directly at the distributor body.

If

the rotor

is

pointing at the

mark, go to Step 12. If it isn't, go to Step 10. 10 If the rotor is 180-degrees off, the num-

ber one piston

is

at

clockwise.

TDC

on the exhaust

stroke. a)

The preferred method is to turn the crankshaft with a socket and ratchet attached to the bolt threaded into the front of the crankshaft.

1

To get the piston

to

TDC

on the com-

comThe rotor the mark on the

pression stroke, turn the crankshaft one plete turn (360-degrees) clockwise.

should

now be

pointing at

2A

Chapter 2 Part A 2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

2A-4

Typical valve cover and related

4.4a

4.4b

components

Remove

the valve cover bolts (arrows)

k

kj » •w \ Carefully pry the valve cover off the

4.5

head - be careful not to bend the which could cause oil leaks later on

4.6

Lift

the curtain off the cylinder head

cylinder rails,

tery terminal.

2

When

distributor.

the rotor

number one spark plug distributor

cap and the

are aligned, the

is

pointing at the

wire terminal ignition timing

number one

piston

is

in

the

marks at

TDC

on the compression stroke. 12

After the

positioned

number one

TDC on

at

TDC

piston has been

the compression

any of the remaining pistons can be located by turning the crankshaft and stroke,

for

Mark the remaining spark plug wire terminal locations on the disfollowing the firing order.

tributor

body

just like

you did

for the

number

one terminal, then number the marks to correspond with the cylinder numbers. As you turn the crankshaft, the rotor will also turn.

When

it's

pointing directly at one of the

marks on the

distributor, the piston for that

particular cylinder

is

at

TDC on

the compres-

sion stroke.

Valve cover

removal and

Wipe

to illustrations 4.4a, 4.4b, 4.5

off the valve

Detach the cable from the negative bat-

Jh

Use a small pair of pliers to pull the tabs (arrows) through the housing, insuring the seal is flush against the valve cover - also, make sure the gasket slightly overlaps the rubber seal at the corners 4.9a

cover thoroughly to the cylinder head and the valve cover are

bly.

all

4

Remove

the upper half of the timing belt

cover (see Section 6). Remove the valve cover bolts (see illustrations). Carefully lift off the valve cover and gas5 ket. If the gasket is stuck to the cylinder head, use a putty knife or flat-bladed screwdriver to

remove

it

(see illustration). Set the

cover aside. If 6 the vehicle is fuel-injected or turbocharged, you'll note a "curtain" (baffle for enhancing air/oil separation) under the valve cover. If you're simply replacing a leaking valve cover gasket, you don't need to remove If

you want to adjust the valves or

clean. Note: Chrysler Corporation states that

1989 and 1990 vehicles equipped with a

2.2L or2.5L engine must have the valve cover

changed

The if it continues to leak oil. updated valve cover uses RTV sealant instead of a gasket. The new cover also includes all new bolts (shorter length) and washers. The parts are only available at a dealer parts

department. 8 If the engine (and

it

manifold side

9

7

Make

and 4.9b

sure the gasket mating surfaces of

with the cutouts over the

contacting the cylinder head

side into position below the gasket mating surface. Be sure to install the rubber bumpers

on top

illustrations 4.9a

first,

then press the opposite (distributor)

floor,

head, remove the curtain (see illustration). Don't lose the two small rubber "bumpers"

Refer to

is equipped with a curtain has been removed), install it now,

cam towers and

service the camshaft assembly or cylinder

Installation and 4.6

§

prevent debris from falling onto the exposed cylinder head or camshaft/valve train assem-

which act as cushions between the curtain and the valve cover.

Removal 1

3

the curtain.

installation

Refer

Detach the accelerator cable from the

cable bracket.

m r

of the curtain.

new gaskets on the valve cover (see illustration 12.8a). Install the molded rubber gaskets to the ends of the cover by pushing the tabs through the slots in the cover (see illustration). Apply a 1/8-inch Install

wide bead of RTV sealant to the cylinder head rail in the area indicated (see illustration). Install the cover and bolts and tighten

Chapter 2 Part

A

Exhaust manifold fasteners (2.2L engine shown)

5.18

4.9b Apply a small amount of RTV sealant to the corners of the cylinder head to prevent oil leaks the bolts to the torque listed

in this

Chapter's

Specifications.

10 Turbocharged versions of the newer 2.5L engine also use a molded one-piece rubber gasket, but the gasket is attached differently. A continuous slot molded into the valve cover retains the gasket (see illustration 12.8a). Install the gasket by pressing the gasket rail section into the slot. Install the cover and bolts and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 11 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

-

removal and installation Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don 't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you periorm any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses

type

fire

engine shown)

and fuel lines. Detach the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage (see Chapter 4). 7 Loosen the power steering pump (if equipped) and remove the drivebelt (see Chapter 1). Detach the power brake vacuum hose 8 lines, electrical wiring

one.

24

air injection

hoses from the

Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Detach the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. 12 Remove the power steering pump (if equipped) and set it aside (see Chapter 10). 13 Remove the intake manifold support bracket and detach the EGR tube from the exhaust manifold. 14 If you're working on a Canadian model with a 2.2L engine, remove the air injection tube assembly. 15 Remove the intake manifold fasteners (see illustration). 16 Lower the vehicle. 17 If you're working on a TBI engine: a)

illustrations 5. 15

and

the throttle

body and

the intake

Detach the

throttle

body and gasket

from the intake manifold (see Chapter is on the bench.

4)

after the unit

18

Remove

the exhaust manifold nuts (see

and detach the exhaust maniDiscard the old gaskets and clean all

illustration) fold.

gasket mating surfaces. 1 Clean the manifolds with solvent and dry

them with compressed air. 20 Check the mating surfaces

of the mani-

folds for flatness with a precision straight-

1 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Chapter 4). 2 Detach the cable from the negative bat-

ter's Specifications for the

tery terminal.

distortion.

Drain the cooling system (see

Chap-

1).

4

Remove

5

Clearly label

the

b)

air

cleaner (see Chapter

and detach

all

4).

vacuum

edge and 21

feeler

gauges. Refer to

this

warpage

Chap-

limit.

Inspect the manifolds for cracks and

If the manifolds are cracked or warped, replace them or see if they can be resurfaced/repaired at an automotive machine shop.

22

new

working on a TBI engine:

Starting at the center, tighten the nuts in

a criss-cross pattern until the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications is reached.

on the head.

c)

Position the intake manifold

d)

Raise the vehicle and support

e)

on jackstands. Working un der the

it

securely

vehicle, install the

intake manifold bolts finger tight. Start-

ing at the center

and working out

in

both

directions, tighten the bolts in a criss-

cross pattern until the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications is reached.

25 The remainder of the installation procedure is the reverse of removal.

Turbocharged engines Refer to

illustration

5.36

Removal Disconnect the negative cable from the

26

battery.

Drain the cooling system (see Chap-

27

manifold as a single assembly.

18 5.

Remove

studs from the old manifold to the

When

tube.

10 Remove the water coolant crossover lines.

you're replacing either manifold, trans-

Apply a thin coat of gasket sealant to the manifold sides of the new gaskets and place them in position on the manifolds. Place the exhaust manifold in position on the cylinder head and install the nuts.

a)

from the intake manifold. 9 If you're working on a Canadian model engine, remove the coupling hose from the

b)

Removal

3

If

6

and have a Class B

extinguisher on hand.

Note: On these models the throttle body assembly and intake manifold must be removed as a unit before the exhaust manifold can be removed.

ter

23

fer the

TBI and carbureted engines Refer to

Installation

Intake manifold fasteners (2.2L

11

Intake/exhaust manifold

5

5.15

2A-5

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

ter

1).

Raise the front of the vehicle and supsecurely on jackstands. 29 Remove the front engine mount through bolt and rotate the engine away from the

28

port

it

cowl.

30

Working under the

vehicle,

remove the

turbocharger (see Chapter 4). 31 Lower the vehicle. 32 Working in the engine compartment, remove the air cleaner assembly along with the throttle body, hose and air cleaner box

and bracket (see Chapter 4). Disconnect the throttle linkage and 33 throttle body electrical connector and vac-

uum

hoses.

34 Position the fuel rail out of the way (complete with injectors, wiring harness and fuel line) by removing the hose retainer

2A

Chapter 2 Part A 2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

2A-6

INTAKE MANIFOLD

CRANKSHAFT PULLEY

SCREW EXHAUST MANIFOLD •WATER PUMP PULLEY

15

SCREW

Intake/exhaust manifold fasteners on a turbocharged model

5.36

Remove

the four Torx head bolts

Raise the vehicle and detach the remove the crankshaft pulley

6.5

(arrows) from the crankshaft pulley

Chapter 4). Disconnect the upper radiator hose from

35 36

Remove

intake

the bolts and nuts securing the

and exhaust manifolds (see

listed in this

43

in

in

in

and clean

both surfaces (manifolds and cylinder head). 39 Check the gasket mating surfaces of the manifolds for flatness with a precision straightedge and feeler gauges. Refer to this Chapter's Specifications for the warpage limit.

40

Inspect the manifolds for cracks, corro-

warped or cracked, an automotive machine shop may sion

and damage.

If

they're

be able to resurface/repair them. Installation 41

Install

a

new

gasket. Note: Don'f use

sealant on the manifold gasket.

42 Place the exhaust manifold in position. Apply anti-selze compound to the threads and install the mounting nuts. Working from both directions, tighten the 1/4-turn increments to the torque

the center out

nuts

in

-

installation

both directions, tighten the

1/4-turn increments until

all

bolts are

torque

listed in this

Chapter's Specifi-

tion).

surface. Discard the old gaskets

Timing belt and sprockets

position

illustra-

the manifolds as an assembly. Place the manifolds on a clean working

6

and the bolts and washers. Working from

the center out bolts

Remove

bolts (arrows) that

secure the timing belt upper cover to the valve cover

Chapter's Specifications.

Place the intake manifold

at the

37 38

exploded view

removal, inspection and

install

the thermostat housing.

-

right inner splash shield to

bracket screw, the four bracket screws from the intake manifold and the two retaining clips (see

pulleys

Remove the two

6.6a 6.4

pump

Crankshaft and water

6.3

cations.

Timing belt removal Refer to

and 6.8c

Place the turbocharger in position on the exhaust manifold (see Chapter 4). Apply anti-seize compound to the threads and

44

install

the retaining nuts. Tighten the nuts to in

the Chapter 4 Specifica-

tions. Tighten the

connector tube clamps

the torque listed securely.

45 Install the coolant return tube in the water box connector, tighten the tube nut and install the tube support bracket on the cylinder head.

46 47

Connect the turbocharger oil feed line. Install the air cleaner assembly and reconnect the throttle linkage, wires and vac-

uum

hoses.

48 49 50

Install

51

52

1

Detach the cable from the negative bat-

tery terminal.

2

Remove

Chapter

rail

(see Chapter

4).

Reconnect the exhaust pipe. Connect the upper radiator hose

all

accessory drivebelts (see

1).

Remove the bolts and detach the water pump pulley (see Illustration). Remove the crankshaft pulley bolts (see 4 3

illustration).

5 Raise the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands and remove the right inner splash shield (see illustration). Remove the crankshaft pulley.

6

Remove

the screws and nuts holding

the timing belt cover to the cylinder head and

block the fuel

(see

illustrations).

Remove both

halves of the timing belt cover. Also remove the engine mount closest to the cover (see to the

thermostat housing.

in

illustrations 6.3, 6.4, 6.5, 6.6a, 6.6b,

6.6c, 6. 6d, 6.7, 6.8a, 6.8b

Fill the cooling system (see Chapter Connect the negative battery cable.

1).

illustration). Use a block of wood and a floor jack positioned under the transaxle to keep

the engine level while the engine

removed.

mount

is

Chapter 2 Part

A

2A-7

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

BOLT

Remove the bolts (arrows) and separate the engine mount from the chassis (the rear bolt is hidden from view)

Remove

the bolts from the timing belt lower cover (arrows) - the third bolt is located behind the water pump 6.6b

6.6d

6.6c

Remove the fasteners and detach the two timing cover halves

r

a V

you have correctly positioned the piston at TDC, the marks on the crankshaft and intermediate shaft sprockets will be aligned

6.7

If

number one

6.8a

Loosen the tensioner locking and remove the tensioner

bolt

6.8b Remove the bolts (arrows) and the conditioning compressor bracket from the engine

air

TIMING BELT COVER UPPER

7

Position the

number one

piston at

Top

Dead Center on the compression stroke (see 3). The marks on the crankshaft and intermediate shaft sprocket will be aligned (see illustration) and the arrows on the Section

camshaft sprocket ing

8

will line up with the bearcap parting line (see illustration 6.19). Use a wrench to loosen the center bolt

of the belt tensioner, releasing the tension from the timing belt. Remove the belt and the tensioner (see illustrations). Note: If the engine is equipped with air conditioning,

remove

the air conditioning compressor (see Chapter 3) and the bracket (see illustration).

Timing belt, tensioner and sprocket inspection Refer to

illustration 6.

10

Rotate the tensioner pulley by hand and move it side-to-side to detect roughness and excessive play. Replace it if it doesn't turn 9

smoothly or if play is noted. 10 Inspect the timing belt

for cracks, wear,

6.8c

Timing belt and related components

' 2. 5L

oA

2A-8

A

Chapter 2 Part

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

Seperation

Rounded belt

side

Fiber

worn 6.13

Carefully inspect the timing belt for the conditions

6.10

A

pin

spanner

(or

homemade

the bolt signs of stretching, ply separation and

aged

or missing teeth.

Look

for

dam-

contamina-

by oil, gasoline, coolant and other liquids, which could damage the belt (see illustration). Replace the belt if it's worn or damaged. Note: Unless the engine has very low tion

mileage,

it's

timing belt

common practice to replace with a new one every time

removed. Don't unless stall

in

the it's

reinstall the original belt

like-new condition. Never rein-

it's in

a belt

questionable condition.

Visually inspect the sprockets for wear 1 and damage. If any of the sprockets are damaged or worn, replace them. 12 Inspect the area directly below each

sprocket for leaking engine oil. If there is oil below a sprocket, the seal behind that sprocket is leaking and must be replaced (see Sections 7, 8 and 9).

Sprocket removal and installation Refer 13

to illustrations 6. 13, 6. 14, 6.

Remove

16 and

6.

19

the intermediate shaft sprocket

bolt while holding the sprocket with a pin

spanner or a

homemade

illustration). Pull the

substitute (see

sprocket

off

the shaft.

Remove

the bolt and use a puller to remove the crankshaft sprocket (see illustra-

14

sprocket

off

illustrations

6.23

and 6.25

15

scribed

of the sprockets.

tion).

Hold the camshaft sprocket as dein Step 13 and remove the bolt, then detach the sprocket from the cam. Make sure the Woodruff keys are in 16 place, then install the crankshaft

and

inter-

mediate shaft sprockets. Turn the shafts until the marks are aligned (see illustration). 17 Install the crankshaft sprocket bolt, lock the crankshaft to keep it from rotating and tighten the bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 18 Install the intermediate shaft sprocket bolt and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Double-check to make sure the marks are aligned as shown in

22

Install

the tensioner pulley with the bolt

finger tight.

23

With the help of an assistant, apply ten-

sion to the timing belt and temporarily tighten

the tensioner bolt. Measure the deflection of

the belt half-way between the camshaft sprocket and tensioner pulley. Adjust the tensioner

until belt

deflection

is

approximately

5/16-inch (see illustration).

24

Turn the crankshaft two complete revofrom

lutions in a clockwise direction (viewed

the front). This leys.

will

Recheck the

align the belt belt deflection

illustration 6.16.

the tensioner pulley. Note:

19 Install the camshaft sprocket and bolt. Tighten the bolt to the torque listed in this

the tensioner, use two wrenches.

Chapter's Specifications. The triangles on the sprocket hub must align with the camshaft bearing cap parting

line

on the puland tighten

When

tightening

One wrench

must keep the large hex surface in a stationary position (adjusted position) while the

(see illustration).

Use a straightedge to make sure the marks (dimples) line up with the centers of the sprocket bolt holes

6.16 puller to get the crankshaft

loosened

20 When installing the timing belt, the marks on the sprockets MUST BE ALIGNED as described in Steps 16 and 19. 21 Install the timing belt without turning any

The small hole must be at the top and the triangles on the camshaft sprocket must be aligned with the bearing cap parting line (arrows) 6.19

Use a

is

Timing belt installation Refer to

(arrow)

6.14

one shown

substitute like the

here) will hold the intermediate shaft sprocket while

shown here

Chapter 2 Part A 2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

2A-9

COVER TIMING HOIE PLUG

To check the camshaft timing when the timing belt cover is installed, bring the number one piston to TDC on the compression stroke and verify the small

6.25

6.23

Use a

ruler to

measure timing

belt deflection

hole

other wrench tightens the smaller bolt (locking

in

bolt).

Recheck the camshaft timing mark with number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke. The small hole in the camshaft sprocket must be centered in the timing belt

8

cover hole (see illustration).

Refer to

Wrap tape around the end of a small screwdriver and pry the seal out of the housing

7.2

the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the hole in the cover

25

the timing belt cover installed and the

The remainder

26

of

installation

is

and

illustrations 8.3

1

Drain the engine

2

Remove

oil

3

Camshaft

7

oil

seal

replacement

Remove

the

oil

with tape).

engines.

5

tape and use

it

to carefully pry out the seal.

Don't nick or scratch the camshaft journal or the

new

seal

will

leak (see illustration).

Thoroughly clean and inspect the seal bore and the seal journal on the camshaft. Both must be clean and smooth. Use emery

3

cloth or 400-grit

sandpaper

to

remove small

6).

Pry the old seal out of the housing with a

Note: The following procedure applies to the camshaft oil seal on both 2.2L and 2.5L

sprocket (see Section 6). 2 Wrap the tip of a small screwdriver with

1).

seal housing (see illus-

screwdriver (wrap the

the timing belt and camshaft

8.

tration).

4

Remove

-

the timing belt and intermediate

Refer to illustrations 7.2 and 7.5

1

seal

(see Chapter

shaft sprocket (see Section -

oil

replacement

the

reverse of removal.

Intermediate shaft

Make

tip of

the screwdriver

sure you don't scratch the

seal bore.

Thoroughly clean and inspect the seal bore and the seal journal on the intermediate shaft. Both must be clean and smooth. Remove small burrs with emery cloth or 400sandpaper. If a groove has been worn in the seal 6 journal (from contact with the seal lip), installing a new seal probably won't stop the

7.5

If

you don't have a socket large

enough

to drive in the

new

seal, tap

around the outer edge with the large end of a

punch

grit

leak.

Such wear normally indicates the

inter-

mediate shaft or shaft bearing surfaces in the engine block are worn. It's probably time to

overhaul the engine (see Chapter

2,

Part

E).

Using a soft-face hammer, carefully tap the new seal into the housing (see illustra7

tion).

Coat the

8 oil

lip

of the seal with clean engine

or multi-purpose grease

and

install

the

burrs.

4 nal

If a groove has been worn into the jouron the camshaft (from contact with the

lip), installing a new seal probably won't stop the leak. Such wear normally indicates the camshaft or the bearing surfaces in the

seal

caps are worn. It's probably time to overhaul the cylinder head (see Chapter 2, Part E) or replace the head or camshaft. 5 Coat the lip of the new seal with clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease and caretap the seal into place with a large socket or piece of pipe and a hammer. If you

fully

don't have a socket as large in diameter as the seal, tap around the outer edge of the seal with the large

end

of a

punch (see

illus-

tration).

6

Install

the camshaft sprocket and timing

Remove

belt (see Section 6).

7

Start the engine

and check

for

oil

leaks.

the bolts and detach the seal housing

8.7

Using a soft-face hammer, carefully tap the new seal into the housing

«

a

2A-10

A

Chapter 2 Part

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

Tap the new crankshaft oil seal into the housing with a soft-face hammer

The camshaft bearing caps are numbered from 1 to 5 (arrow) so they don't get mixed up - if the caps aren't numbered, mark them (they must be

9.9

Remove

the bolts and detach the housing/seal assembly

9.5

Working underneath the

5

the bolts and detach the

oil

vehicle,

10.3

remove

reinstalled in their original locations)

seal housing (see

illustration).

Use a punch and hammer

6

housing and seal on the front of the engine block. Make sure you don't damage the seal lip. Install the housing bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

9

Install

the intermediate shaft sprocket

and the timing belt (see Section 6). 10 Check the engine oil level and add oil, if necessary (see Chapter 1). 1 Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

9

Crankshaft front replacement

oil

seal

-

1

Drain the engine

2

Remove

oil

a groove has been worn in the seal on the crankshaft (from contact with the seal lip), installing a new seal probably won't stop the leak. Such wear normally indicates the crankshaft and/or the main bearings are excessively worn. It's probably time 8

If

journal

overhaul the engine (see Chapter

it

securely on jackstands.

4 Remove the oil pan (see Section 13). Note: It is possible to remove the seal without removing the oil pan, if a special seal puller tool

is

used.

10.5

in this 1

and tighten them

Install

the retain-

to the torque listed

Chapter's Specifications.

Reinstall the crankshaft sprocket, timing

and

components. pan (see Section 13). Check the engine oil level and add oil, if necessary (see Chapter 1). 14 Start the engine, let it warm up and check for leaks. belt

related

12 13

Install

10

Camshaft and hydraulic lash adjusters/rocker arms - removal, inspection and installation

2,

E).

1).

the timing belt and crankshaft

sprocket (see Section 6). 3 Raise the front of the vehicle and support

ing bolts

this,

the

oil

9 Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the surface of the seal bore, lay the housing on a

9.9

(see Chapter

To prevent

cloth or 400-grit sandpaper.

to

and

to illustrations 9.5

the seal bore.

mating surface of the seal housing. Position the housing on the engine.

wrap the tip of the punch with tape. 7 Thoroughly clean the seal bore in the housing and the seal journal on the end of the crankshaft. Remove small burrs with emery

Part

Refer

damage

don't

to drive the

Make sure you

old seal out of the housing.

clean, in

flat

work surface, position the new

the bore and tap

seal

place with a soft(see illustration). Make sure it

into

face hammer the seal lip faces the proper direction (towards the engine). 10 Lubricate the seal lip with multi-purpose grease and apply a 1 wide bead of anaerobic gasket sealant to the engine block

Mark the rocker arms and lash adjusters before removing them

mm

10.6

Remove

Note:

and

It is

possible to remove the rocker arms

lash adjusters without removing the

camshaft (see Section

1 1

for details)

Removal Refer 1

2

to illustrations 10.3, 10.5, 10.6

and

10.8

Remove the valve cover (see Section 4). Remove the timing belt cover, timing

the bolts (arrows) from the camshaft bearing caps

2A-11

Chapter 2 Part A 2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

UNWORN AREA

WEAR ZONE

Measure the height of the camshaft lobes at the wear zone and unworn area, then subtract the wear zone measurement from the unworn area measurement to get the actual wear - compare the wear to the limit listed in this Chapter's Specifications

10.12

To check camshaft endplay, set up a dial indicator like this, with the gauge plunger touching the nose of the camshaft - pry the camshaft back-andforth and note the reading on 10.9

The lash adjusters should

10.8

easily

if

slide out they aren't coated with varnish

the dial indicator

and camshaft sprocket (see Section 6). Note: If you want to save time by not removing and installing the timing belt, you can unfasten the camshaft sprocket and suspend

ACTUAl WEAR

belt

b)

out of the way with the belt still attached on a piece of wire. Be sure the wire maintains it

tension on the belt so

it

c)

won't disengage any

of the sprockets.

The camshaft rides on five bearings. Each bearing cap is held by two fasteners. On some engines, the bearing caps are num3

d)

On some

numbered. If this is the case, you must mark them before removal. Be sure to put the marks on the same ends of all the caps to prevent incorrect orientation of the caps dur-

c)

Also mark the rocker arms (see illustrain

the

d)

position during reassembly.

a soft-face hammer. Caution: Failure to follow this procedure exactly as described could tilt the camshaft in the housing, which could damage the housing or bend the camshaft. 7 Lift out the camshaft, wipe it off with a clean shop towel and set it aside.

11

If

the indicated reading

is

is

Compare

c)

If

Chapter's Specifica-

the indicated runout exceeds the

Check the camshaft bearing and signs

journals

of wear.

If

they are worn, replace the cylinder head with

new

or rebuilt unit.

Measure the journals on

the camshaft with a micrometer, comparing

your readings with this Chapter's Specifications. If the diameter of any of the journals is out of specification, replace the camshaft. Note: When servicing the camshaft or cylinder head, it is necessary to be certain that oversized camshafts are used only with oversized journals. Cylinder heads with oversized

egg carton.

plug on the air pump end of the cylinder head. Camshafts with oversized journals are identified by green paint on the barrel of the

out each

Inspection Refer to illustrations 10.9 and

10.

a)

Install the

caps

1

camshaft and secure

and 5.

identified

by green paint on

the tops of the camshaft bearing caps

OS/J stamped

and

to the rear of the oil gallery

and OS/J stamped on

shaft

12

the

end of

the

shaft.

To check camshaft endplay:

9

be

it

with

Check the cam lobes

1

a)

Check

the toe

and inspect

the

oil

pump and

oil.

Using a micrometer, calculate the lobe illustration). If the lobe wear greater than listed in this Chapter's Specifications, replace the camshaft.

is

13

Inspect the rocker arms and hydraulic

lash adjusters for wear, galling

for wear:

and ramp areas of each

and

pitting of

the contact surfaces. 1

If

any

of the conditions described

are noted, the cylinder head

is

sure you track

down

above

probably get-

ting insufficient lubrication or dirty

make

for scoring

oil

wear (see

runout:

the results to the camshaft in this

the

or dirty

worn.

journals can

Lift

lash

passages for blockage. Lobe wear is usually caused by inadequate lubrication

higher, either

head

rocker arm and lash adjuster (see illustration), wipe them off and set them aside in labeled plastic bags or an 8

to find

oil

Support the camshaft with a pair of V-

and caps a

first try

Check the

in

specified runout, replace the camshaft.

Remove the bolts from all the bearing caps (see illustration) except cap numbers 2 and 4. Next, loosen each of the four fasteners on 2 and 4 a little at a time to relieve valve spring tension evenly until the caps are loose. If any of the caps stick, gently tap them with

the cause of the wear.

the reading with the endplay

tions.

same

6

replace the camshaft, but

Compare

runout listed

ing installation.

and pitting. wear on the toe or the ramp,

there 's

If

adjusters, look for abrasive substances

blocks and attach a dial indicator with the stem resting against the center bearing journal on the camshaft. b) Rotate the camshaft and note the indicated runout.

engines, the bearing caps

tion) to ensure they're installed

b)

indicator reading.

To check camshaft a)

aren't

5

Using a large screwdriver as a lever at the opposite end, move the camshaft forward-and-backward and note the dial

Replace parts as necessary. 1

lobe for score marks and uneven

wear. Also check for flaking

the camshaft or the

rection.

4

cam

on the head (see

dial indicator

listed in this Chapter's Specifications. e)

bered from 1 to 5, beginning at the drivebelt end of the engine (see illustration). Note: All numbers face either the spark plug or manifold side of the engine. This is to ensure you install the caps facing the right di-

Mount a

illustration).

-

-

oil,

so

the cause of this

problem (low oil level, low oil pump capacity, clogged oil passage, etc.) before installing a new head, camshaft or followers.

Installation Refer to

illustrations 10.17,

10.20 and 10.21

15 Thoroughly clean the camshaft, the bearing surfaces in the head and caps, the rocker arms and hydraulic lash adjusters. Remove all sludge and dirt. Wipe off all components with a clean, lint-free cloth. 16 Lubricate the lash adjuster and the contact surfaces on the top of the rocker arms with assembly lube or moly-base grease. Install the lash adjusters and rocker arms, making sure you put them in their original locations.

Lubricate the camshaft bearing surfaces the head and the bearing journals and lobes on the camshaft with assembly lube or 1

in

moly-base grease. Carefully lower the camshaft into position with the lobes for the number one cylinder pointing away from the

cam

followers or rocker

arms (see

illustra-

2A

2A-12

Chapter 2 Part

A

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

FRONT BEARING CAP

% 1

10.17

REAR BEARING CAP

and exhaust valves

Caution: Failure to adequately lubricate

the camshaft and related components can cause serious damage to bearing and friction surfaces during the first few seconds after engine start-up, when the oil pressure is low

Apply a thin coat of assembly lube or moly-base grease to the bearing surfaces of the camshaft bearing caps and install the caps in their original locations. 19 Install the bolts for bearing caps 2 and 18

Gradually tighten

turn at a time

-

all

until

down and seated

four fasteners

the camshaft

in

is

-

1/4-

drawn

the bearing saddles.

Don't tighten the fasteners completely at this

Working

in

torque

Apply anaerobic-type sealant to the contact surfaces of bearing caps 1 and 5 20

(see illustration). Install bearing caps 3 and 5 (see tration) and tighten the fasteners the 21

way you

illus-

same

caps 2 and 4. Install a new oil seal on the front of the 22 camshaft, then install bearing cap 1. Don't did for

listed in this

tighten the fasteners completely at this time.

Remove any excess

sealant from the

still be correct. Rotate the camshaft as necessary to reattach the

timing should

sprocket to the camshaft. If the valve timing was disturbed, align the sprockets and install the belt as described in Section 6.

Remove the spark plugs and rotate the crankshaft by hand to make sure the valve timing is correct. After two revolutions, the 26

marks on the sprockets should

aligned.

If

still

be

they're not, reindex the timing belt

to the sprockets (see Section

two end bearing caps.

11

Chapter's Specifications.

Then torque the fasteners for bearing caps 3 and 5 the same way. Finally, tighten the fasteners for bearing cap 1 25 Install the camshaft sprocket, timing belt, timing belt cover and related components (see Section 6). If you suspended the camshaft sprocket out of the way and didn't

timing

feel resistance while rotating the crankshaft,

stop immediately and check the valve timing by referring to Section 6.

a criss-cross pattern, tighten

the fasteners for bearing caps 2 and 4 to the

disturb the timing belt or sprockets, the valve

time.

23

10.20 Apply anaerobic-type gasket sealant to the dark areas only on the front and rear camshaft bearing caps

24

or nonexistent.

4.

10.21 Apply RTV sealant to the outer circumference of the camshaft rear plug before installing the number 5 cap

away from the number one

cylinder intake

tion).

-

the camshaft with the lobes

Install

pointing

mm (.06 In) DIAMETER BEAD OF ANAEROBIC GASKET SEALANT

6).

Note:

If

you

Valve springs, retainers and seals -

replacement

Refer to

illustrations 11.4, 11.5, 11.9,

11.15

and 11.17 Note: Broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals can be replaced without removing the cylinder heads. Two special tools and a compressed air source are normally required to perform this operation, so this Section carefully and rent or buy the tools before beginning the job. If compressed air isn't available, a length of nylon rope can be used to keep the valves

read through

from

falling into

the cylinder during this pro-

cedure. 1

Refer to Section 4 and remove the valve

cover.

Remove the spark plug from the cylinder which has the defective component. If all of 2

TOOL-4682

1 1

.4

This is what the air hose adapter that threads into the spark plug hole looks like - it is commonly available from

auto parts stores

1 1 .5 Using this tool, the valve springs can be depressed and the rocker arms removed without removing the camshaft - this is also the preferred type of spring compressor to use when removing the valve keepers

Chapter 2 Part

If

needle-nose pliers the valve stem seals are being replaced,

3

Turn the crankshaft

the affected cylinder

is

at

until

the piston

in

the compression stroke (see Section 3 for

you're replacing all of the valve stem seals, begin with cylinder number one and work on the valves for one cylinder at a time. Move from cylinder-to-cylinder following the firing order sequence (see the instructions).

If

Specifications).

4 Thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and connect an air hose from a com-

pressed

air

source to

it

(see illustration).

Most auto parts stores can supply the

air

hose adapter. Note: Many cylinder compression gauges

utilize

work with your

air

a screw-in fitting that may hose quick-disconnect fit-

the

head

in

place.

One

Depress the valve spring with a valve spring compressor (Chrysler tool no. 4682, or equivalent) (see illustration) and remove the rocker arm for the valve with the defective part. If all of the valve stem seals are being replaced, all of the rocker arms should be 5

removed. 6 Apply compressed air to the cylinder. Warning: The piston may be forced down by compressed air, causing the crankshaft to turn suddenly. If the wrench used when posi-

number one

attached to the bolt

in

piston at

TDC

is still

the crankshaft nose,

type,

grips the lower spring coils

shown

here,

and presses on

the retainer as the knob is turned, while the other type utilizes the rocker arm assembly for leverage. Both types work very well,

although the lever type

ting.

tioning the

can be removed easily. Use a large ratchet and socket to rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until slight resistance is felt. Stuff shop rags into the cylinder head 9 holes above and below the valves to prevent parts and tools from falling into the engine, then use a valve spring compressor to compress the spring. Remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet. Note: A couple of different types of tools are available for compressing the valve springs with it

top dead center on

sive (see

is

usually less expen-

accompanying

illustration

and

illustration 11.5).

10

Remove

valve spring, then

remove the umbrella type

pressure fails to hold the valve in the closed position during this operation, the valve face or seat is probably guide seal. Note:

If air

damaged. If so, the cylinder head will have to be removed for additional repair operations. Wrap a rubber band or tape around the 1 top of the valve stem so the valve won't fall into the combustion chamber, then release the air pressure. Note: If a rope was used instead of

air

a rope

was used

instead of in

air

the normal

direction of rotation until slight resistance

is

felt.

Lubricate the valve stem with engine

15

and

a

install

new

guide

seal

oil

(see

illustration).

16

the spring(s)

Install

in

position over the

valve.

17 Install the valve spring retainer. Compress the valve spring and carefully position in the groove. Apply a small dab grease to the inside of each keeper to hold it in place (see illustration). 18 Remove the pressure from the spring tool and make sure the keepers are seated. 19 Disconnect the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. If a rope was used in place of air pressure, pull it out

the keepers of

of the cylinder.

Refer to Section

10 and

install

the

rocker arm(s). 21

Install

the spark plug(s) and

hook up the

wire(s).

22

Refer to Section 4 and

install

the valve

cover.

23 oil

Start and run the engine, then check for leaks and unusual sounds coming from

the valve cover area.

12

pressure, turn the crankshaft

slightly in the direction

If

pressure, rotate the crankshaft

20

the spring retainer, shield and

it

could cause damage or injury when the crankshaft moves. The valves should be held in place by 7 the air pressure. If the valve faces or seats are in poor condition, leaks may prevent air pressure from retaining the valves - refer to the alternative procedure below. If you don't have access to compressed 8 air, an alternative method can be used. Position the piston at a point approximately 45degrees before TDC on the compression stroke, then feed a long piece of nylon rope through the spark plug hole until it fills the combustion chamber. Be sure to leave the end of the rope hanging out of the engine so

11.17 Apply a small dab of grease to each keeper before installation to hold it in place on the valve stem until the spring compressor is released valve stem.

of

all

the spark plugs should be removed.

2A-13

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

11.15 Be sure to note if there are differences in the intake and exhaust valve stem seals. Use a special valve stem seal or a deep socket to install the new seal(s).

the special tool isn't available, use a screw-type spring compressor remove the keepers with a magnet or

11.9

A

Cylinder head

-

removal and

installation

opposite normal rota-

tion.

Caution: Allow the engine to cool completely this procedure.

12 Inspect the valve stem for damage. Rotate the valve in the guide and check the end for eccentric movement, which would

before beginning

indicate that the valve

Removal

is

bent.

13 Move the valve up-and-down in the guide and make sure it doesn't bind. If the valve stem binds, either the valve is bent or the guide is damaged. In either case, the

head 14

will have to be removed for repair. Reapply air pressure to the cylinder to

retain the valve in the

remove the tape

closed position, then band from the

or rubber

Refer to 1

illustrations 12.8a,

Position the

Dead Center

12.8b and 12.9

number one

piston at

Top

(see Sec-

tion 3).

2

Disconnect the negative cable from the

battery.

3

Drain the cooling system and

the spark plugs (see Chapter

1).

remove

jA

2A-14

Chapter 2 Part

A

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines 4

Remove

(see Section

the intake/exhaust manifold Note: If you're only replacing

5).

the cylinder head gasket, it isn't necessary to remove the manifolds. If you leave the manifold attached, you may need an assistant to help lift the head off the engine.

5

Remove

including the

6 7

Remove Remove

the distributor (see Chapter

cap and

5),

wires.

the timing belt (see Section

6).

the valve cover (see Section

4).

Loosen the head bolts in 1/4-turn increments until they can be removed by hand. Follow the recommended sequence to avoid warping the head (see illustrations). 9 Lift the head off the engine. If resistance is felt, don't pry between the head and block 8

gasket mating surfaces - damage to the mating surfaces will result. Instead, pry against the casting protrusions on the sides of the

head (see illustration). Set the head on blocks of wood to prevent damage to the gasket sealing surfaces. 10 Cylinder head disassembly and inspection procedures are covered in detail in Chapter 2, Part E. It's a good idea to have the head checked for warpage, even if you're just cylinder

replacing the gasket.

Installation Refer to illustrations

12. 12, 12. 14, 12.

15

and

12.16 11 The mating surfaces of the cylinder head and block must be perfectly clean when the head is installed. 12 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of carbon and old gasket material (see illustration),

then clean the mating surfaces

with lacquer thinner or acetone.

there's

oil

on the mating surfaces when the head

is

may not seal correctly may develop. When working on the

installed, the

and leaks

If

gasket

shop rags keep out debris. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove material that falls into the cylinders. Since the head is made of aluminum, aggressive scraping can cause damage. Be extra careful not to nick or gouge the mating surblock, stuff the cylinders with clean

to

12.8a

Exploded view of the cylinder head and related components

-

2.2L engine shown,

faces with the scraper.

2.5L similar

12.8b

Loosen the head bolts 1/4-turn at a time, in the sequence shown, until they can be removed by hand

12.9 If the cylinder head is difficult to remove, pry only on the protrusions located on the side of the cylinder head as this will not damage the cylinder head surface

Chapter 2 Part

A

12.15

12.14 A die should be used to remove sealant and corrosion from the head bolt

Use a gasket scraper to remove the old head gasket

12.12

threads prior to installation

2.1

6

Cylinder head bolt

TIGHTENING sequence

13 Check the block and head mating surfaces for nicks, deep scratches and other

damage. If damage is slight, it can be removed with a file; if it's excessive, machining

may be

the only alternative.

each head bolt

in

a vise and run a die

down

the threads to remove corrosion and restore the threads (see illustration).

Dirt,

sealant and damaged threads torque readings.

15

Place a

illustration)

new gasket on

Remove

20 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise slowly by hand through two complete revolutions. Recheck the camshaft timing marks (see Section 21

14 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the head bolt holes. Mount

13.4

6).

Start the engine

timing (see Chapter

and check the

ignition

1).

Run the engine until normal operating 22 temperature is reached. Check for leaks and proper operation.

corrosion, will

affect

13

Oil

pan

-

removal and

installation

the block (see

and set the cylinder head

in

Refer to

illustrations 13.4,

13.8a

and 13.8b

16 in

Install

the bolts. They must be tightened

four steps, following a specific

sequence

(see illustration), to the torque listed Chapter's Specifications.

in this

1

Reinstall the timing belt (see Section 6).

18

Reinstall the remaining

parts

in

the

reverse order of removal.

19

Be sure

check

all

to

refill

fluid levels.

the cooling system and

Note: The following procedure is based on the assumption that the engine is in the vehicle.

Removal

put the

new head

u

the bolts (arrows) from the

oil

pan

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 4 Remove the bolts securing the oil pan to the engine block (see illustration). 5 Tap on the pan with a soft-face hammer to break the gasket seal, then detach the oil pan from the engine. Don't pry between the block and oil pan mating surfaces. Using a gasket scraper, remove all 6 traces of old gasket and/or sealant from the engine block and oil pan. Remove the seals from each end of the engine block or oil pan. Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. Make sure the threaded bolt 3

holes

position.

When you

gasket in position on the engine block, be sure it's right side up and facing the right direction - the holes in the gasket must match the passages in the block for coolant and oil to circulate properly

\

1

2A-15

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

7

in

the block are clean.

Clean the

thoroughly.

oil

pan with solvent and dry

Check the gasket flanges

it

for dis-

around the bolt holes. If necessary, place the pan on a block of wood and use a hammer to flatten and restore the tortion, particularly

gasket surfaces.

1 Warm up the engine, then drain the oil and replace the oil filter (see Chapter 1). 2 Detach the cable from the negative bat-

Installation

tery terminal.

8

Install

new

seals

in

the retainers at the

2A

2A-16

Chapter 2 Part A 2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines mm

3

3

(.12 IN.)

mm

DIAMETER BEAO-RTV

(.12 IN.)

DIAMETER BEAD-RTV

@SH FOOTER I Apply a continuous 1/8-inch wide bead of RTV sealant to the oil pan, then install the pan

13.8b 13.8a

hold

Install

them

in

new

pan end seals and place with a bead of RTV

sealant as

oil

shown here 14

Oil

pump

and front

and

-

Apply a 1/8-inch wide bead of RTV oil pan gasket surfaces. Continue the bead across the end seals. Make

Refer to

installation

14.12

is

applied to the inside of the

bolt holes (see illustration).

9

Carefully place the

oil

pan

in

position.

the bolts and tighten them

in

1/4-

turn increments to the torque listed

in

this

10

Install

closest to the center of the pan and work out

a spiral pattern. Don't overtighten them or leakage may occur. Note that some 2.2L engines have bolts with different diameters,

illustrations 14.8, 14.9, 14.10, 14.11,

the bolts and

1

Add

oil,

different torque values.

1 Position the number one piston at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke (see

2 3 is

2 21

3).

Remove Check

the distributor (see Chapter

to see that the

oil

pump

2 5L

5).

shaft slot

parallel to the center line of the crankshaft

run the engine

(see illustration). 4 Remove the oil pan (see Section 5

Remove

the

oil

pump mounting

13).

bolts.

If

equipped, also remove the brace bolt (see

and check

for

oil

illustrations).

leaks.

6

2 51

Remove

the

oil

pump

assembly.

ENGINE

OIL PICKUP

BALANCE SHAFT CARRIER

14.5a

off

Engine oil pump pick-up mounting details 14.5b

Oil

pump and

the

oil

Check the rotor endplay with feeler gauges and a straightedge (see illustration).

in

which require

lift

8

14.5b and

14.5c

Section

Chapter's Specifications. Start with the bolts

illustrations 14.3, 14.5a,

drive shaft alignment

and 14.13

7

Removal Refer to

pump

Remove pump cover.

tration).

sure the sealant

Oil

Inspection

removal, inspection

rear of the engine block (see illus-

sealant to the

14.3

related

components

-

exploded view

-

BLACK CAP

GRAY CAP

Chapter 2 Part A 2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

2A-17 MICROMETER

14.5c

pump mounting

Oil

bolts (arrows)

Check the

14.8

a precision straightedge across the INNER ROTOR

Measure the thickness

14.9

rotor endplay by placing

pump

pump

of the

2A

oil

rotor with a micrometer

and inserting feeler gauges between the rotor face and

housing

like this

the straightedge

FEELER

STRAIGHT EDGE

GAUGE

OUTER ROTOR

FEELER

GAUGE

SMALL CHAMFER

Check the oil pump cover for warpage with a straightedge and feeler gauges

14.12

OUTER ROTOR

14.10

Check the

inner rotor-to-outer

rotor tip clearance with feeler

gauges 14.1

Remove the outer rotor and measure its 9 thickness (see illustration). 10 Check the clearance between the inner and outer

rotor tips with feeler

gauges (see

1

Check the outer rotor-to-pump feeler gauge

body clearance with

Measure the outer rotor-to-pump body

clearance (see illustration). 12 Check the oil pump cover for warpage

free length of the

oil

pressure

valve spring.

14 Compare the measurements to pump Specifications at the beginning with feeler

gauges and a straightedge (see

illustration). 1

Measure the relief

illustration).

13

Remove

any of them are outside the

If

oil

of this limits,

replace the pump.

the cotter pin and cup, then

extract the spring and

from the

Chapter.

the

pump

pump

oil

relief

valve

housing (see illustration).

1

the rotor with the large chamfered

Install

edge facing toward the pump body. Install the oil pressure relief valve and spring assembly.

Install

the

pump

cover and tighten in this Chapter's

the bolts to the torque listed Specifications.

SPRING

CUP

Installation COTTER KEY Refer to 14.13

pressure valve -

RELIEF

VALVE

Oil relief

components

exploded view

illustration

14.18

Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the mating surface of the pump and place the pump in position. Rotate it back-and-forth a little to ensure there's positive contact between the pump and the engine block. Coat the threads of the mounting bolts 17 16

with sealant and, while holding the

securely

them

in

pump

place, install the bolts. Tighten

to the torque listed

Specifications.

in

this

Chapter's

2A-18

Chapter 2 Part

A

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

UPPER COVER

Flywheel and related - exploded view

15.3a

components

COVER DOWEL (3)

BOLT AND WASHER

ASSEMBLY

14.18 Before attaching the oil pick-up tube assembly, lubricate the new O-ring and install it in the oil pump

CLUTCH COVER

AND

PRESSURE PLATE ASSEMBLY

18

new

a

Install

O-ring

the

in

oil

pump

pick-

up opening (see illustration). 19 Carefully work the pick-up tube into the pump, install the retaining bolt and tighten it to the torque listed

in this

Chapter's Specifi-

cations.

20

the brace bolt and tighten

Install

it

securely. 21

15

the

Install

oil

pan (see Section

Flywheel/driveplate

and

-

13).

removal

installation If the bolts are arranged in a 15.3b staggered pattern, it isn't necessary to mark the crankshaft and flywheel (note

Removal Refer

to illustrations 15.3a

and 15.3b

Raise the vehicle and support

1

on jackstands, then

refer to

it

remove the transaxle. If it's leaking, now would be a very good time to replace the

pump

front

the pressure plate and clutch

Chapter

(manual transaxle equipped vehicles). Now is a good time to check/replace the clutch components and disc

(see

Remove

the bolts that secure the

fly-

wheel/driveplate to the crankshaft (see illustrations).

If

screwdriver

the crankshaft turns, in

wedge

a

the ring gear teeth to jam the

flywheel.

Remove

the flywheel/driveplate from the

crankshaft. Since the flywheel

be sure to support

it

is fairly

heavy,

while removing the last

bolt.

Clean the flywheel to remove grease

5

Installation 7

4

Position the flywheel/driveplate against

oil. Inspect the surface for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks. Light scoring can be removed with emery

Check

cracked and broken ring gear teeth. Lay the flywheel on a flat surface and use a straightedge to check for warpage. 6 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. cloth.

is

leaking, replace

before reinstalling the flywheel/driveplate.

it

oil

seal from the retainer with a

the crankshaft.

made

retainer bore.

Be sure to align the marks removal. Note that some engines have an alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to ensure correct installation. Before installing the bolts, apply thread during

compound

locking

to the threads.

8 Wedge a screwdriver through in the ring gear teeth to keep the flywheel/driveplate from turning as you tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 9 The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

16

Rear main

oil

seal

-

in

Remove 5

1

Remove If

oil

sure the

lips of

plastic

the

new

seal with

or multi-purpose grease. Install the

end

lips of

of the crankshaft

(make

the seal point toward the

engine) and carefully tap

it

into place with a

hammer.

Install the driveplate or flywheel (see 6 Section 15) and clutch (see Chapter 8). 7 Install the transaxle (see Chapter 7).

replacement

illustration 16.4

2

all

Lubricate the

seal over the

17 Refer to

Thoroughly clean the seal bore housing with a shop towel. traces of oil and dirt.

the seal

engine

for

the crankshaft rear seal

Pry the

screwdriver (see illustration). Be careful not to nick or scratch the crankshaft or the seal

and

If

remove the driveplate (see Sec-

tion 15).

8)

pilot bearing.

4

the retainer

transaxle,

Remove

3

Carefully pry the seal from

16.4

to the crankshaft

seal/O-ring (automatic transaxle

only).

2

f^

the two bolts [arrows] are spaced much farther apart than the others) - if they aren't spaced like this, be sure to mark the relationship of the flywheel

securely

Chapter 7 and

the transaxle (see Chapter

Engine mounts - check, replacement and adjustment

7).

the vehicle has a manual transaxle,

remove the clutch and flywheel (see Chapter 8 and Section 15 of this Chapter). 3 If the vehicle has an automatic

Refer

to illustrations 17.4a, 17.4b, 17.4c,

17.4d, 17. 4e 1

and 17.15

Engine mounts seldom require atten-

Chapter 2 Part

A

2A-19

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

17.4a An exploded view of the engine mounts

^$

(typical)

RIGHT RAIL

2A

S-*FRONT CROSSMEMBER

CROSSMEMBER FRONT SUSPENSION

but broken or deteriorated mounts should be replaced immediately or the added

tion,

strain

placed on the driveline components

may cause damage

or wear.

Check

pan. Place a large block of

Check

trations) to see

L

insulators (see illusthe rubber is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal plates.

the

if

Sometimes the rubber

will split right

BODY An exploded view of the right engine mount

17.4d

An exploded view of the mount

front engine

ENGINE BRACKET

BOLT

INSULATOR JOLT

BOLT STRUT

AND

2

SPACERS

TURBOCHARGED ENGINE ONLY

MARK INSULATOR POSITION

down

the center.

ENGINE BRACKET

crossmember and the engine

wood

mount

4

raised slightly to

17.4b Remove the bolts and nuts (arrows) that hold the rear strut onto the

7.4c

oil

between the jack head and the oil pan, then carefully raise the engine just enough to take the weight off the mounts. Warning: DO NOT place any part of your body under the engine when it's supported only by a jack!

2

During the check, the engine must be remove the weight from the mounts. Raise the vehicle and support it securely 3 on jackstands, then position a jack under the

1

engine

2A-20

Chapter 2 Part

A

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

SHAFT

NYLON SLEEVE MOULDED IN INSULATOR

17.4e

5

the

An exploded view

of the left engine

Check for relative movement between mount plates and the engine or frame

(use a large screwdriver or prybar to attempt to

move

the mounts).

If

movement

is

noted,

lower the engine and tighten the mount fas-

mount

hoist.

17.15

Remove

and detach the 10

Cutaway

Rubber preservative should be applied

Adjustment 11

Replacement

adjustable to allow drivetrain movement in relation to driveaxle assembly length (see

Disconnect the negative battery cable

from the battery, then raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands (if not already done).

8

Remove

a)

the fasteners and detach the

frame bracket. Raise the engine slightly with a jack or

insulator from the

9

and

left

engine mounts are

Chapter 8). 1 Always adjust the insulators when: b)

c)

13

You service the driveaxles. The vehicle sustains front end structural damage. You replace an insulator.

Remove

insulator sleeve

assembly

by carefully supporting the engine and

to the insulators to slow deterioration.

7

left

transaxle assembly with a floor jack.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

right

of the

insulator.

Use thread locking compound on the mount bolts and be sure to tighten them securely.

The

^

\

insulATOrI FREE TO SLIDE (14 TO 17 mm)

the insulator-to-engine bolts

teners.

6

f \

the load on the engine mounts

14

Loosen the

right insulator vertical fas-

mount bracketcrossmember bolts and nuts. 15 The left engine mount insulator is sleeved over the shaft and long support bolt (see illustration) to provide lateral movement

teners and the front engine to-front

adjustment. 1 Pry the engine right or left as required to achieve the proper driveaxle length (see Chapter 8). 17 Tighten the right engine mount insulator

vertical

bolts

securely,

tighten the front

engine mount bolts and nuts securely and center the left engine mount insulator. 18 Recheck the driveaxle length.

2B-1

Chapter 2 Part B 2.6L four-cylinder engine 2B Contents

Section

Section

Camshaft - removal, inspection and installation Camshaft oil seal (water pump pulley) - replacement Compression check Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement Cylinder head - removal and installation

and replacement Engine mounts - check, replacement and adjustment Engine oil and filter change Drivebelt check, adjustment

Engine overhaul - general information Engine - removal and installation Exhaust manifold - removal and installation Flywheel/driveplate

-

removal and

13

Oil

pan

1

Oil

pump

See Chapter 2E

-

Rear main

15

installation

removal, inspection and installation oil

seal

-

14

Rocker arm assembly

See Chapter

1

19

See Chapter 1 See Chapter 2E See Chapter 2E

1

7

-

and installation Spark plug replacement Timing chain and sprockets and installation

Top Dead Center (TDC) -

in

the vehicle

2

removal, inspection and installation

Silent shafts chain/sprockets

Valve cover

16 18

replacement

Repair operations possible with the engine

14

General information Intake manifold - removal and installation

removal and

12

8

installation

-

for

removal and

-

5

removal, inspection

9

See Chapter -

1

removal, inspection

10

number one

piston

-

locating

3 4

installation

Valves - servicing Valve spring, retainer and seals

See Chapter 2E -

replacement

6

Specifications

General numbers

Q®@®

1-3-4-2

Firing order

Cylinder

(drivebelt end-to-transaxle end)

Bore and stroke Displacement

1-2-3-4

156 cubic inches

YQ Qy"^

Camshaft Endplay Runout

0.004 to 0.008 inch

Lobe wear (maximum)

0.020 inch

Cylinder head

The blackened terminal shown on the distributor cap indicates the

Number One

spark

plug wire position

0.03 inch

warpage

limit

Intake/exhaust manifold warpage Oil

0754H

3.59 X 3.86 inches

Cylinder location and distributor rotation

0.002 inch

limit

0.006 inch per foot of manifold length

pump

Drive gear-to-bearing clearance

Driven gear endplay

0.0008 0.0008 0.0043 0.0043 0.0020 0.001 6

Relief spring free length

1.85 inch

...

Driven gear-to-bearing clearance Drive gear-to-housing clearance

.

..

Driven gear-to-housing clearance Drive gear endplay

to to to to

to

to

0.0020 0.0020 0.0059 0.0059 0.0043 0.0039

inch inch inch inch inch inch

2B-2

Chapter 2 Part B 2.6L four-cylinder engine

Torque specifications Camshaft bearing cap

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

160in-lbs

bolts

53

Valve cover bolts/nuts Silent shaft chain

Chain guide A bolts Chain guide B bolts Bolt

156

A

Chain guide C bolts Timing chain guides bolts Carburetor air heater mounting bolts (see illustration 8.9)

156 156

A Exhaust manifold heat cowl screws (A in illustration 8.10) Engine mount - right (see illustration 19.1a)

A Engine mount

-

front (see illustration 19.1b)

A B Camshaft sprocket

40 45 40 87

bolt

Crankshaft sprocket bolt Cylinder head bolts (use the tightening sequence

shown

in

Section 14)

34 69

step (engine cold)

Second step (engine

cold)

75 50 60 150 in-lbs 150 in-lbs 25 60 in-lbs 50 in-lbs 25

Third step (engine hot)

Driveplate-to-crankshaft bolts

Flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts Intake manifold bolts

Exhaust manifold nuts (B

in illustration 8.10)

Silent shaft sprocket bolt

pan-to-engine block fasteners pick-up tube bolt(s) pump sprocket bolt

Oil

Oil Oil

pump mounting bolts pump cover bolts

71 in-lbs 71 in-lbs

Rear main oil seal housing bolts Timing chain cover bolts

105 160

This Part of Chapter 2

is

devoted to

in-

vehicle repair procedures for the 2.6L engine.

and engine block and cylinder head overhaul can be found in Part E of this

installation

Chapter.

The following repair procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, of

many

Chapter 2

of the steps outlined in this Part will

not apply.

The Specifications included in this Part of Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures contained in this Part. Part E of Chapter 2 contains the Specifications necessary for cylinder head and engine block rebuilding. The 2.6 liter engine is an inline vertical four, with

and a

a chain-driven overhead camshaft counterbalancing system

silent shaft

which cancels the engine's power pulses and produces relatively vibration-free operation. The crankshaft rides in five renewable inserttype main bearings, with the center bearing (the thrust bearing) assigned the additional

The pistons have two compression

rings

oil

Depending on the components involved,

control ring.

may be

remove the hood

it

insert-type plain bearings.

improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 1 1 if necessary). Cover the fenders to prevent damage to the paint. Special pads are available, but an old bedspread or blanket will also work.

The engine

is

liquid-cooled, utilizing a

pump, driven by a from the camshaft, to circulate coolant around the cylinders and combustion chambers and through the intake manifold. Lubrication is handled by a gear-type oil pump mounted on the front of the engine under the timing chain cover. It is driven by the silent shaft chain. The oil is filtered continuously by a cartridge-type filter mounted on the radiator side of the engine. centrifugal impeller-type belt

2

Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle

Many major repair operations can be accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle. Clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with some type of degreaser before any work is done. It will

make

task of controlling crankshaft endplay.

in-lbs

piston pins are press fitted into the small

information concerning engine removal

and

in-lbs

The semi-floating end of the connecting rod. The connecting rod big ends are also equipped with renewable and one

General information

All

in-lbs

250 in-lbs 75 in-lbs

BandC

Oil

in-lbs

100 in-lbs 80 in-lbs 80 in-lbs

B

Oil

tn-lbs

12 in-lbs 14

BoltB

First

in-lbs

guides (see illustration 9.8)

the job easier and help keep

the internal areas of the engine.

dirt

out of

If

helpful to

vacuum, exhaust,

oil

to

or coolant leaks

develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal

replacement, the repairs can generally be made with the engine in the vehicle. The intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket, crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket are all accessible with the engine in place. Exterior engine components, such as the intake and exhaust manifolds, the oil pan, the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator, the distributor and the fuel system components can be removed for repair with the engine in place. Since the cylinder head can be removed without pulling the engine, camshaft and

component servicing can also be accomplished with the engine in the vehicle. Replacement of the timing chain and sprockets is also possible with the engine in the valve

vehicle. In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment, repair or replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and

2B-3

Chapter 2 Part B 2.6L four-cylinder engine 7

Disconnect any electrical connections

from the carburetor that

will interfere

with the

removal of the valve cover. 8 Wipe off the valve cover thoroughly to prevent debris from falling onto the exposed cylinder head or camshaft/valve train assembly.

9

Remove

the valve cover bolts (see illus-

trations).

10

Carefully

ket.

If

head, tap

Do

seal.

lift

off

the gasket it

the valve cover and gasis

stuck to the cylinder

with a rubber mallet to break the

not pry between the cover and cylin-

der head or

you'll

damage

the gasket mating

surfaces.

4.4

Align the notch in the pulley with the on the timing plate, then check to see if the distributor rotor is pointing to number 1 cylinder; if not, the camshaft is 1803.1

Remove

(arrows) and

the carburetor brace bolts the brace from the engine

Installation

lift

Refer

to illustration 4. 13

Use a gasket scraper

to

remove

all

tery terminal.

1

traces of old gasket material from the gasket

rod bearings

Remove the water pump pulley cover 2 from the valve cover (see Chapter 3). 3 Remove the air cleaner inlet hose and housing assembly from the carburetor and the top of the valve cover (see Chapter 4). 4 Remove the bolts from the carbu-

vehicle.

retor/valve cover brace (see illustration)

degrees out of time (number 4 is at TDC) the crankshaft will have to be rotated 360-degrees

-

is possible with the engine in the However, this practice is not recommended because of the cleaning and preparation work that must be done to the compo-

nents involved.

Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating

3

Refer to

lift

and

the brace from the engine.

Remove the distributor cap and wires from the cylinder head (see Chapter 1). Be sure to mark each wire for correct installation. 6 Remove any fuel lines or vent lines from 5

the carburetor or fuel

filter

that will interfere

with the removal of the valve cover.

illustration 3.

mating surfaces of the cylinder head and the valve cover. Clean the surfaces with a rag

soaked 12

in

lacquer thinner or acetone.

Be sure

to install the semi-circular seal

(camshaft plug) on top of the cylinder head near the camshaft sprocket. Apply beads of RTV sealant to the points where the seal meets the valve cover mating surfaces. 13 Install a new gasket onto the valve cover. Install the molded rubber gasket onto the cover by pushing the new gasket into the slot that circles the valve cover perimeter. Apply beads of RTV sealant where the cylin-

*=\>

is essentially the same as for the 2.2L/2.5L engine. Refer to Part A, Section 3 and follow the procedure outlined there, except use the accompanying illustra-

This procedure

tion.

An exploded view of the valve cover and related components

4.9a

Valve cover

4

-

removal and

installation

Removal Refer to

illustrations 4.4,

4.9a

and 4.9b

Detach the cable from the negative bat-

1

X*

mm \^

L

4

T

17 Remove the screw holding the vacuum harness and feed the harness through the hole. 1

Remove

the screws and

lift

the cover off

(see illustration).

19 Remove the screw from the heater core tube retaining bracket and lift the heater core out (see illustration). 20 Installation is the reverse of removal.

12.3

The heater/air conditioner control assembly is retained by two screws (arrows)

12.4

Pull the

bulb holder from the back

of the control

assembly

Chapter 3

3-11

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL CABLE

A/C HEATER

12.5

Unplug the electrical connectors from the control assembly

CONTROL

ASSEMBLY

Detach the temperature control cable from the lever

12.6

Details of the temperature

2.7a

1

control cable using a screwdriver, pry the temperature control

cable out of the control assembly (see

intermixed.

If

compressor

illustrations).

tion.

Disconnect the vacuum harness (see illustration) and remove the assembly from

Check

could result in costly due to improper lubrica-

mixed,

failure

it

particularly during the winter. Long non-use can cause hardening and subsequent failure

8

the dash.

9

of the seals.

The following maintenance checks should be performed on a regular basis to 1

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

ensure the

air

conditioner continues to oper-

ate at peak efficiency.

13

system and maintenance

Air conditioning

-

check

a)

Check

the

Chapter Refer to

compressor

b)

illustration 13.

Check

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not loosen any hose fittings or remove any components until the system has been discharged by a dealer service department or service station. Always wear eye protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings.

and

air

c)

Depress the locking tab with pliers

.

.

.

it

(see Chapter

and 1

if

nec-

).

Check the system hoses. Look for and deterioration. Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil bubbles and seepage. If there 's any evidence of wear, damage or leaks, replace the hose(s).

d)

later

12.7b

(see

cracks, bubbles, hard spots

conditioning system on 1993

models uses the non-ozone depleting refrigerant, referred to as R-134a. The R134a refrigerant and its lubricating oil are not compatible with the R-12 system and under no circumstances should the two different types of refrigerant and lubricating oil be

this If it's

it

1).

the drivebelt tension

essary adjust

Caution: The

drivebelt.

deteriorated or worn, replace

Inspect the condenser fins for leaves, bugs and other debris. Use a "fin comb" or compressed air to clean the con-

Make sure

the system has the correct

refrigerant charge.

2 for

It's a good idea to operate the system about 10 minutes at least once a month,

12.7c

manual

then pry the cable from the assembly .

.

.

(refer to

the Haynes Automotive

Heating and Air Conditioning Repair Manual). However, simple checks and component replacement procedures are provided in this Chapter. 4 The most common cause of poor coolis simply a low system refrigerant charge. a noticeable drop in cool air output occurs, the following quick check will help you deter-

ing If

mine 5

if

the refrigerant

Warm

is

low.

the engine up to normal operating

temperature.

Place the air conditioning temperature 6 selector at the coldest setting. Open the

doors

denser. e)

Because of the complexity of the air 3 conditioning system and the special equipment necessary to service it, in-depth troubleshooting and repairs are not included in

(to

make

sure the

tem doesn't cycle

air

conditioning sys-

as soon as it cools the passenger compartment). 7 With the compressor engaged - the clutch will make an audible click and the cen-

12.8

off

Pull the control assembly out and unplug the vacuum harness

3-12

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

air

conditioning systems

any part of the system (hoses, compressor, line fittings, etc.) until after the system has been depressurized by a dealer service department or service station.

SIGHT GLASS

REFRIGERANT LINE

Caution: Replacement filter-drier/receiverso effective at absorbing moisture that they can quickly saturate upon exposure to the atmosphere. When installing a new unit, have all tools and supplies ready for quick reassembly to avoid having the system open any longer than necessary. drier units are

HIGH PRESSURE RELIEF

VALVE

The

1

system

GASKET

as a

filter-drier/receiver-drier, acts

reservoir for the

SIGHT

refrigerant.

It's

located near the radiator.

Have the system discharged (see Warn-

2

ing above).

The

13.7

drier (or

on top of the filterreceiver-drier) assembly enables sight glass

you to view the condition of the system while the system is operating - if the refrigerant looks foamy, the charge is low refrigerant in the air conditioning

3 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 4 Unplug any electrical connectors from the filter-drier/receiver-drier.

dirt

7 ter of the clutch will rotate

-

inspect the sight lift

glass,

if

equipped (see

refrigerant looks foamy,

illustration).

low.

it's

If

the

Have the

system charged by a dealer service department or other qualified shop. If there's no sight glass, feel the inlet 8 and outlet pipes at the compressor. One side should be cold and one hot. If there's no perceptible difference between the two pipes, there's something wrong with the compressor or the system. It might be a low charge it might be something else. Take the vehicle to a dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning

14

shop.

Air conditioning filter-

drier/receiver-drier

-

removal and

installation details

the

Installation

is

openings immediately after detaching the refrigerant lines

2

Air conditioning

removal and

compressor

Disconnect the negative cable from the

battery.

Unplug the electrical connector from the compressor clutch. 3

4

Remove

the drivebelt (see Chapter 1). Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the rear of the compressor (see illustration).

5

-

installation

Plug the open and moisture.

fittings to

prevent entry of

Refer to illustrations 15.5 and 15.6

6

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any part of the system (hoses, compressor, line fittings, etc.) until after the system has been depressurized by a dealer service

ing bracket (see illustration)

department or service

1

Have the system discharged

ing above).

dirt

Unbolt the compressor from the mountand lift it from

the vehicle.

7

If

a

new compressor

being installed,

is

follow the directions with the

compressor

regarding the draining of excess

prior to

oil

installation.

station.

compressor is replaced.

to illustration 14.5

you plan to reinstall be sure to plug the

- if

the reverse of the removal.

Take the vehicle back to the shop that discharged it. Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak tested.

Note: The filter-drier/receiver-drier (see Section 14) should be replaced whenever the

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble

unit,

the filter-drier/receiver-drier out.

9

15

same

and moisture. Loosen the mounting bracket bolts and

8

installation

Refer

8

Typical filter-drier/receiver-drier

14.5

Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the filter-drier/receiver-drier (see illustration). Plug the open fittings to prevent entry of 6 5

(see

Warn-

The clutch may have

to

be transferred

from the original to the new compressor. Installation is the reverse of the removal. 9 Replace all O-rings with new ones specifically made for air conditioning system use,

and

lubricate

them

with refrigerant

15.6

oil.

Air

conditioning

compressor installation details

(four-cylinder

model shown, others similar)

15.5

Each

held to the compressor with two bolts (arrows)

refrigerant line

is

COMPRESSOR

AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

air

3-13

conditioning systems

CONDENSER ASSEMBLY

RADIATOR CLOSURE PANEL

Condenser

16.4

10 Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak tested by the shop that discharged it.

16

Air conditioning

17.3

installation details

condenser

under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any part of the system (hoses, compressor, line fittings, etc.) until after the system has been depressurized by a dealer service department or service station.

Have the system depressurized (see

1

Warning above). Follow Steps 2

illustration 16.4

tion

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any part of the system (hoses, compressor, line fittings, etc.) until after the system has been depressurized by a dealer service department or service

1

station.

Lift

the evaporator straight up and out of

the heater/air conditioner unit (see illustration).

4

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak tested by the shop that discharged it.

is

Remove

the grille (see Chapter 1 1 ). Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the condenser (see illustration). Plug all refrigerant lines to prevent dirt 5 and moisture from contaminating the system. 6 Remove the two mounting bolts from the condenser (see illustration 16.4).

4

8

If

-

general information

the original condenser

stalled, store

it

will

with the line fittings

be reinon top to

from draining out. 9 If a new condenser is being installed, pour one ounce of wax-free refrigerant oil into

10

it

rear heater-air conditioning

located

in

the

left

system

rear quarter panel.

The

system can be operated from the front blower switch on the dashboard, regardless of the setting of the rear controls. Air is drawn into the air intake, then enters the blower housing and is pushed through the heater core or the air conditioning evaporator. In the heat

mode

the

air

flow

the condenser out of the vehicle.

prevent the

oil

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

REAR HEATER A/C UNIT

RELAY

Be

Auxiliary (rear) heater/air

pressor, line

air

conditioning system

BLOWER RESISTOR BLOCK

19.8

Details of the auxiliary

heater/air conditioner is

the sysser-

and

blower housing assembly illustration 19.8

Warning: Wait

until the

cool before beginning

engine is completely procedure.

this

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system and disconnect the push-together couplings at the rear 1

2

of the unit.

3

Have the

conditioning system dis-

air

charged (see Warning above). 4 Use a screwdriver to carefully pry the upper and lower corners of the control panel 5 Carefully pull the control assembly from the housing and unplug the electrical conPry the heater and

air

conditioner out-

from the housing.

Remove

the

left

rear quarter panel trim

illustration).

removal and installation

Warning: The

fittings, etc.) until after

Disconnect the electrical connector 8 from the resistor block and blower relay (see

-

7.3

-

(see Chapter 11).

it.

1

components

tem has been depressurized by a dealer vice department or service station.

7

Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak tested by the shop that discharged

illustration

is

air outlets.

nectors.

11

Refer to

In

Warning: The air conditioning system is under under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any part of the system (hoses, com-

6

place under the

Air conditioning evaporator

flow

air

removal and installation

lets

in

the

out of the housing.

BLOWER

prior to installation.

sure the rubber pads are condenser.

17

19

Refer to

The

Disconnect the negative cable from the

Lift

mode

Heater/air conditioner

Auxiliary (rear) heater/air

conditioner

Have the system discharged (see Warn-

7

conditioning

1 1

3

18

14).

battery.

3

air

directed through the upper

through 18 of Sec-

ing above).

2

directed through the outlets at the floor.

conditioner 1

Note: The filter-drier/receiver-drier should be replaced whenever the condenser is replaced (see Section

is

the

-

removal and installation Refer to

Evaporator installation details

9 Remove the screw on the distribution duct at the rear wheel housing. 10 Remove the three screws on the heater/air conditioner unit on the floor and the screw on the panel support. Lift the unit from the vehicle. 1 Installation is the reverse of removal. 12 Refill the cooling system (see Chap-

3-14

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

air

conditioning systems

COAT O-RINGS AND GASKETS WITH REFRIGERANT OIL BEFORE ASSEMBLING

GASKET

PUSH-ON COUPLINGS

GROMMET

I REAR HEATER ENGINE COOLANT TUBING

REFRIGERANT LINES

19.16

Routing details of the underbody heater plumbing

1). Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak tested by the shop that discharged

ter

it.

19.22 Routing details of the underbody

1

Installation is the reverse of removal.

18

Refill

1

Start the engine, allow

the cooling system. it

to reach normal

operating temperature and check for leaks.

Underbody heater plumbing Refer to

illustration 19.

Warning: Wait

until

this

is

completely

Underbody air conditioning plumbing Refer

to illustration

19.22

plumbing to the underbody and lower the pipes from the vehicle (see illustration).

the

Drain the cooling system.

Locate the heater hose tee fittings in the engine compartment and disconnect them. 1 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Disconnect the two pushtogether

16

fittings at

Remove

the

the rear heater core.

fasteners

holding

ings to prevent contamination of the system.

24

Remove

the screws holding the lines to

25

Remove

rail.

the screws securing the lines to

the underside of the vehicle.

Disconnect the parking brake cable connection (see Chapter 9). 27 Lower the plumbing from the vehicle.

26

procedure.

20 Have the air conditioning system discharged (see Warning above). Raise the vehicle and support it securely 21 on jackstands. Locate and disconnect the two air conditioning fittings for the underbody plumbing in the engine compartment. Remove the bolt from the air condition22 ing plumbing block in front of the gas tank on

13 14

Carefully pull lines down, remove the aluminum N-gasket and plug the line open-

23

the gas tank support and support

16

the engine

cool before beginning

conditioning lines

air

the

left

28

If

off the

you're installing

new

shipping caps

they

-

lines don't will

take

protect the

ends from contamination and scratches. 29 Installation of the plumbing is the reverse of removal.

30 Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak tested by the shop that discharged

side (see illustration). it.

4-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems Contents

Section

Section

8 removal and installation 7 Air cleaner housing - removal and installation See Chapter 1 Air filter replacement 24 Air intake plenum (multi-point EFI) - removal and installation Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor (multi-point EFI) - removal 23 and installation Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor (single-point EFI) - check, 21 removal and installation Carburetor choke check See Chapter 1 10 Carburetor - description and service information Carburetor (2.2L engine) - adjustments 13 12 Carburetor (2.2L engine) - overhaul Carburetor (2.6L engine) - idle speed adjustment 15 Carburetor (2.6L engine) - overhaul 14 Carburetor/throttle body mounting bolt/nut torque check See Chapter 1 Carburetor - removal and installation 1 Exhaust system check See Chapter 1 Exhaust system servicing - general information 32 Fuel filter replacement See Chapter 1 Fuel injection system - check 17 Fuel injection system - general information 16 Fuel injector(s) (multi-point EFI) - check, removal Accelerator cable

and

Fuel injector (single-point EFI)

-

installation

and

check, removal

20

installation

Fuel lines and fittings Fuel pressure

and

-

-

replacement

dampener

9

(multi-point EFI)

28 -

removal

27

installation

Fuel pressure regulator (single-point EFI)

and

removal

installation

Fuel pressure regulator (multi-point EFI)

and

-

-

check, removal

19 procedure (fuel-injected models only) 2 Fuel pump - removal and installation 5 Fuel pump/fuel pressure - check 3 Fuel rail assembly (multi-point EFI) - removal and installation 25 Fuel system check See Chapter 1 Fuel tank cleaning and repair - general information 6 Fuel tank - removal and installation 4 General information 1 Heated inlet air system general check See Chapter 1 Information sensors See Chapter 6 Throttle body (multi-point EFI) - removal and installation 22 Throttle body (single-point EFI) - removal and installation 18 Turbocharger - check 30 Turbocharger - general information 29 Turbocharger - removal and installation 31 installation

Fuel pressure

26

relief

Specifications

Fuel pressure Carbureted models Fuel injected

models (engine running, vacuum hose disconnected from

4.5 to 6 psi fuel

pressure regulator)

2.5L single point EFI engines

1990 and earlier 1991 and later Fuel injected models (engine running, vacuum hose disconnected from 2.5L turbo engine 3.0L, 3.3L

and 3.8L engines

14.5 psi

39 fuel

psi

pressure regulator)

39 48

psi psi

Carburetor adjustments Curb

idle

speed

Fast idle speed

See the Emissions Control Information See the Emissions Control Information

label in label in

engine compartment engine compartment

4-2

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

Carburetor adjustments (continued) 2.2L engine choke

vacuum

kick adjustment

Carburetor number

1984

R40069-2A R40075-2A R40128-2A R40129-2A R40063-2A R40070-2A R40072-2A

0.070 inch

0.080 inch

1985

R40143A R40145A R40146A R40136A R40137A R40140A R40141A

0.095 inch

0.075 inch

1986

R40229A R40230A R40231A R40232A R40233A R40234A R40240A

0.130 inch

0.160 inch

2.2L engine float drop

1-7/8 inch

Dry float level

2.6L engine choke breaker opening 2.6L engine choke unloader opening

31/64 inch 25/32 + 25/64 inch 5/64 inch or less at 50-degrees F 3/64 inch or more at 32-degrees F

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

2.2L engine 2.6L engine

Air intake

plenum mounting bolts/nuts 115 250

3.0L engine 3.3L and 3.8L engines

speed (AIS) motor screws Single-point systems Multi-point systems Carburetor mounting nuts

Automatic

20

17 12.5

48

Fuel pressure regulator (single-point EFI)

mounting bolts Turbo engine 3. OL engine 3.3L and 3.8L engines Throttle body mounting bolts/nuts 2.5L engine Turbo engine 3.0L engine 3.3L and 3.8L engines Turbocharger support bracket bolts To engine block

40 115 200

with the 2.2L engine.

system consists of the fuel pump, an

tank, a mechanical or electric fuel

cleaner, either a carburetor or a fuel injec-

system and the hoses and

in -lbs

in

lbs

connect these components. Earlier models are carbureted. A Holley carburetor (5220 or 6520) is used on models

Fuel system fuel

in -lbs

40 20 40

General information

The

in -lbs

175 in -lbs 175 to 225 225 in -lbs 175 to 225

Turbocharger-to-exhaust manifold nuts

tion

in-l bs

rail

To turbocharger

air

in-l bs

17in-l bs

,

2.6L engine

1

in -lbs

idle

2.2L engine

Fuel

in -lbs

lines

which

A

Mikuni carburetor

is

used on models with the 2.6L engine. Both models have a mechanical fuel pump mounted on the engine block. The pump is driven by an eccentric cam off the intermediate shaft (2.2L) or camshaft (2.6L).

Later

two

A

models are

fuel-injected. Basically,

different fuel injection

systems are used.

single-point (one injector) Electronic Fuel

Injection

engines.

(EFI)

A

system

is

used

on 2.5L

multi-point (one injector per cylin-

EFI system is used on 2.5L turbocharged, 3.0L, 3.3L and 3.8L engines. All fuel-injected models use an in-tank electric der)

fuel

pump.

Chapter 4

Exhaust system

TERMINAL

The exhaust system consists

4-3

Fuel and exhaust systems

#1

TERMINAL

#1

TERMINAL

of the

exhaust manifold, exhaust pipes, catalytic

and

converter

muffler.

For

#l

TERMINAL #2

information

regarding the removal and installation of the

exhaust manifold, refer to Chapter 2, Part A. For information regarding exhaust system and catalytic converter servicing, refer to the last Section in this Chapter. For further infor-

TERMINAL #2

TERMINAL #2

Late model turbo engines

mation regarding the catalytic converter, refer to Chapter 6.

Early

TERMINAL

2. 5L

model turbo engines

ENGINE

#1

TERMINALS

TERMINAL #2

TERMINAL

#1

Fuel pressure relief procedure

2

models

(fuel-injected

only)

Refer to illustrations 2.4, 2.5a and 2.5b 3. PL

extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water

Warning: Gasoline

ENGINE

3.3L and 3.8L

ENGINES

is

If an injector is not accessible, ground the number 1 terminal on the injector side of the harness connector and apply battery voltage to the number 2 terminal to actuate the injector and release the pressurized fuel

2.4

heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse

present.

it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

The

1

fuel

system operates under pres-

may be under even when the engine is sure and

residual pressure

Consequently any time the fuel system is worked on (such as when the fuel filter is replaced) the system must be depressurized to avoid the spraying of fuel

when

a

component

Loosen the

2

pressure

in

is

disconnected.

tank cap to release any

fuel

the tank.

Unplug the

3

off.

electrical

connector from the

you're working on a multipoint system disconnect the electrical connector from the injector that is the most easily

fuel injector.

accessible.

If

If

you're working on a single-

point system, proceed to the next Step.

If

access to an injector is difficult, unplug the injector harness connector from the engine (or

2.5a

If

one of the

injectors

is

accessible,

unplug the most convenient injector connector and bleed the fuel pressure in short bursts by grounding one of the terminals and touching the other terminal (arrow) with the

jumper wire

clip

2.5b On single-point EFI systems, you can easily ground an injector terminal in the connector right at the throttle body to

bleed the fuel pressure - but don't activate it for more than five seconds than five

seconds

main) harness.

4

If

the injector

is

accessible, ground one

jumper wire. If it was necessary to disconnect the main injector harness due to inadequate access to the injector(s), ground the injector terminal number 1 (on the engine side of the harness) using a jumper wire (see illustration). 5 Connect a jumper wire between the other terminal (number 2 on the injector harness) and the positive (+) post of the battery, which will open the injector and depressurize the fuel system (see illustrations). Caution:

3

Fuel pump/fuel pressure

-

check

of the terminals with a

Do five

not energize the injector(s) for more than

seconds.

It's

recommended

that the

one to two seconds to make sure the injector isn 't damaged. The fuel pressure can be heard escaping into the throttle body or combustion chamber. When the sound is no longer heard, the system is depressurized.

pressure be bled

in

several spurts of

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type

fire

extinguisher on hand.

Mechanical pump Refer to 1

illustration 3.

Disconnect the

fuel line

from the carbu-

and install a T-fitting (see illustration). Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the T-fitting retor

Attach the T-fitting as close to the 3.1 carburetor as possible and use a six-inch (maximum) length of hose when hooking up the pressure gauge to check the fuel pump pressure

4-4

Chapter 4

Fuel

and exhaust systems

The electrical connectors for the fuel pump (1) and the fuel gauge sending unit (2) are easily accessible at the fuel tank

3.12a

3.8

Be sure the and not the

fuel

gauge

return line

is

(2)

connected to the

inlet line (1)

(single-point system)

3.12b The fuel rail on multi-point systems has a service port that can be used to attach the fuel pressure gauge

Attach the fuel pressure gauge fuel tank and the fuel filter

3.14

3.16 Disconnect the return line and attach a length of fuel hose, directing the free end of the hose into a container - if the fuel pressure is within specifications

between the

with a section of fuel hose that's no longer

than six inches.

2

Disconnect the gauge from the end of

the fuel hose and direct the end of the hose

an approved gasoline container. Operate the starter for a few seconds, until fuel spurts into

out of the hose, to vent the

pump

(this elimi-

nates any air in the fuel chamber, which could affect the pressure reading). Reattach the gauge to the fuel hose.

and allow it to idle. The pressure on the gauge should be about 4.5 to 6 psi, remain constant and return to zero 3

Start the engine

when the engine is shut off. An instant pressure drop indicates a

slowly

4

faulty outlet valve.

pressure

pump

is

If

this occurs, or

if

the

too high or low, replace the fuel new one. Note: if the pressure is

with a

too high, check the air vent to see plugged before replacing the pump.

Electric

(in -tank)

listen for the sound of the in-tank pump. It should make a whirring sound. If you don't hear the pump, make the following quick checks. Relieve the fuel system pressure (see 6 Section 2). Raise the rear of the vehicle and place it 7 securely on jackstands. 8 Lower the fuel tank slightly (see Section 4) and locate the wire harness to the fuel

pump

a)

if it's

illustration

b)

Remove

there

is

If

there

is

voltage to the

no voltage

pump, replace

pump

to the

pump,

Fuel pressure check Refer to 3.16

illustrations 3. 12a, 3. 12b, 3. 14

and

1

Relieve the fuel pressure (see Section

12

On

2).

single-point fuel injection systems

disconnect the 5/16-inch

fuel line

from

the throttle body and connect a fuel pressure

gauge between the fuel inlet hose and the body (see illustration). On multipoint fuel injection systems, remove the fitting on the fuel rail (see illustration) and

relay or fuse,

check

install

locate it

and

replace as necessary. Trace the wires for

the pressure gauge. Note: Late models

are equipped with a quick disconnect coupler installed in the fuel line near the fuel

filter.

doesn't work, have it checked by a dealer service department or a

C-4799 and adapter C6539 as an alternative to the above method. 13 Start the engine and disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regula-

repair shop. Further testing requires special equipment.

findings with the values listed

a open or short 3.8

line

throttle

Start.

the fuel

pump

the fuel tank cap and place your ear close to the filler neck. Have an assistant turn the ignition key to On while you 5

If

plugged return

it.

Voltage check Refer to

On and

assistant cranks the engine (with the ignition system disabled), check for a

(TBI),

(see illustration).

9 Using a voltmeter, verify that there's voltage to the pump when the key is turned to

when an

10

If

the

pump

circuit condition.

still

Install special tools

tor.

Record the

fuel pressure,

comparing your in this Chap-

Chapter 4 FROM TANK (LARGE

FUEL SUPPLY

DIAMETER)

or fuel

rail) is

pressure

plugged or

is still

restricted.

If

the fuel

low, pinch the return line with

a pair of pliers (wrap a rag around the hose first to prevent damage). If the pressure now goes up, replace the fuel pressure regulator. If no change in the fuel pressure is observed,

check

for a

plugged

fuel

pump sock

(screen) or a defective fuel

pump.

16

ABOVE

If

the fuel pressure

is

see two fuel lines between the fuel tank and the carburetor or fuel injection system: A supply (larger diameter) line and a return (smaller diameter) line - drain or siphon the fuel tank through the supply hose or line You'll

Removal specifica-

disconnect the primary wires from the ignition coil, remove the return hose from the throttle body or fuel rail and connect a short section of hose to it. Direct the end of the hose into a suitable container and have an assistant crank the engine (see illustration). 17 If the pressure is now correct, the prob-

lem

4

When the vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure regulator the reading should be approximately 10 psi ter's Specifications.

is

a restricted return

Fuel tank

-

line.

removal and

installation

14

If

first

the fuel pressure

tions, install the fuel filter 1

If

reading.

and the

the fuel

ter or line

is

BELOW

specifica-

pressure gauge between the

tank (see illustration). pressure increases, the fuel filfuel

(between the

filter

and

throttle

body

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support 2 it securely on jackstands.

3

Remove

the fuel tank

filler

cap.

Disconnect the fuel tank line (the large diameter supply line) located adjacent to the right front shock tower in the engine compartment (see illustration), connect a hose and drain or siphon the tank into a metal container. Warning: Do not use your mouth to start the siphoning action - use a siphoning kit, which can be purchased at most auto 4

parts stores.

is

less than the

heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. present.

filter

tions,

4.4

4-5

Fuel and exhaust systems

Refer to

illustrations 4.4

and 4.

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water

5 Remove the screws retaining the filler tube to the body. Disconnect all wires and hoses from the 6 tank (label them first to avoid problems during installation).

Remove

the mounting bolts or nuts (see

illustration),

lower the tank slightly and

7

remove the

filler

tube.

FUEL

PUMP

FUEL

TANK

ASSEMBLY

Typical fuel tank installation and fuel line routing details

4-6

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

TURBO, 3.01 FUEL RETURN FUEL SUPPLY LINE (LARGER

AND

3.3L

2.5L

ENGINES

ENGINE

LINE (SMALLER

DIAMETER)

DIAMETER)

GROUND TERMINAL

GAUGE

FUEL

SENDING UNIT

FUEL FUEL

GAUGE

RETURN

TERMINAL

4.12a

\N

TUBE

Typical fuel tank connection details (carbureted models)

4.12b

FUEL SUPPLY

FUEL

FUEL RETURN

SUPPLY TUBE

TUBE

TUBE

Typical fuel tank connection details (fuel-injected models)

TO CARBURETOR FILTER

TO FUEL TANK

PUMP

FUEL

5.1

pump assembly and

Fuel

fuel line

mounting

details

5.8

Fuel

pump

location (arrow) (2.6L engine)

(2.2L engine)

8

Lower the tank

further

and support

2

it

while disconnecting the rollover/vapor sepa-

5

Remove

pump - removal and

installation

rator valve hose.

9

Fuel

Warning: Gasoline Refer to

10

To

newspaper under the gasoline that

the tank and insulator pad.

Installation illustrations 4. install

is

extremely flammable,

when you work on system. Don't smoke or

so take extra precautions 12a and

the tank, raise

4. it

12b into position

with a jack, connect the rollover/vapor separator valve hose and place the insulator pad on the top. Connect the filler tube. Caution: Be sure the vapor vent hose is not pinched between the tank and floor pan. 1 Raise the tank with the jack, connect the retaining strap and install the retaining nuts. Tighten them securely. 12 Connect the fuel lines and wiring (see illustrations) and install the filler tube retaining screws.

Disconnect the cable from the negative

terminal of the battery, Place clean rags or

any part of the fuel allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where

a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water

heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. present.

may

spill

fuel

pump

to catch any

during removal.

Carefully unscrew the fuel line fittings and detach the lines from the pump. A flarenut wrench should be used to prevent damage to the line fittings. 4 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump. Before installation, coat both sides of 5 the spacer block with RTV sealant, position the fuel pump and spacer in place and install

3

the bolts.

6

Attach the lines to the

pump and

tighten

the fittings securely (use a flare-nut wrench, if one is available, to prevent damage to the fittings).

7

2.2L engine Refer to

to the battery, run

illustration 5.

13 Fill the fuel tank, install the cap, connect the negative battery cable and check for

block adjacent to the

leaks.

tion).

1

Reconnect the cable

the engine and check for leaks.

The

fuel

pump

is

bolted to the engine oil filter

(see illustra-

2.6L engine Refer 8

and 5. 19 mounted on the

to illustrations 5.8

The

fuel

pump

is

cylin-

FUEL SUPPLY

FROM

4-7

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4 FILTER

TANK

FUEL RETURN TO

HAMMER

FUEL TO CARBURETOR

GASKET 5.27a

installing the fuel pump on a 2.6L engine, be sure to place a gasket on each side of the spacer block

When

5.19

-n

PUMP

FUEL

LOCK RING

BRASS DRIFT

"

ASSEMBLY

—«—

ring from an electric fuel pump counterclockwise with a hammer and brass punch

To remove the lock

assembly, rotate

it

LOCKING

FLOAT

PRESSURE RELIEF AND"

9

ROLLOVER VALVE

Pre-1991 fuel

5.27b injected

models have

separate fuel

and

pumps

gauge sending (1991 and later

fuel

units

models have an

integral

pump/fuel gauge sending unit) and both fuel

units are similar in

appearance - to avoid removing the wrong unit, look for two pipes (the sending unit has only one pipe) FUEL FILLER TUBE VENT

,

9

It

is

held

in

place with two nuts.

Disconnect the cable from the negative

terminal of the battery,

Carefully

each spark plug to help during then remove the spark plugs. 10

number

reinstallation,

crankshaft

hole and

rotate the

a clockwise direction (with a

in

wrench on the

large bolt attaching the pulley

you can

to the front of the crankshaft) until

compression pressure number one cylinder.

feel the

rising in the

Continue rotating the crankshaft until the notch on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the T or zero on the timing mark tab on 11

the timing chain case. At this point, the the fuel

pump

mum, which remove (and 12

Install

cam make

drive will

is

lift

of

reduced to a mini-

the

pump

easier to

the spark plugs and hook up the

Remove

off

If

and carremove the fuel filter mounting bolt. Loosen the hose clamps and remove the fuel hoses from the pump fittings. Plug the ends of the hoses. 14 Remove the fuel pump mounting nuts and pull the pump off the engine. You may have to tap the pump body with a soft-faced the

air

intake housing

hose

to break the gasket seal.

pump

the

is difficult

to remove, take

the valve cover and guide the

1

17

Remove

the spacer block and scrape off

Before installing the new pump,

sure that the rocker arm

make

moves up and down

18 Coat both sides of the new gaskets with RTV-type gasket sealant before installation. 19 Slip the first gasket, the spacer block and the second gasket (in that order) onto the fuel pump mounting studs (see illustration). Install the fuel pump. It may be neces20 sary to guide the rocker arm into place from inside the head. Work slowly; there is not much clearance between the rocker arm and the valve gear.

Once

Do block may

22 23

the fuel

pump

is

properly seated,

the mounting nuts and tighten not overtighten

them

them

or the spacer

crack.

Install

Install

the valve cover

if it

fittings.

Check

pump mounts on

for

oil

leaks

where the

the cylinder head.

Electric in-tank Refer to

without binding or sticking.

install

fuel

pump

traces of the old gaskets and sealant.

evenly.

buretor-to-valve cover bracket, then

An exploded view of the inlet strainer on a 1991 and later fuel pump

rocker arm out of the head from the inside.

21

install).

wires.

13

15

all

Place your thumb over the number one

cylinder spark plug

hammer

PUMP

O-RING 5.30

.

der head, adjacent to the carburetor (see illustration).

FUEL

RESERVOIR ASSEMBLY

was removed. them

the hoses (after inspecting

pump

illustrations 5.27a, 5.27b,

5.30 and

5.31

Remove the fuel tank (see Section 4). Use a hammer and a BRASS punch (a steel punch may cause a spark, which could be extremely dangerous when working on the fuel tank!) to remove the fuel pump lock ring. 26 27

Drive

it

in

a counterclockwise direction

until

it

can be removed (see illustration). Fuelinjected models (except 1991 models) have separate fuel pumps and fuel gauge sending units (see illustration); 1991 and later models have an integral fuel pump/fuel gauge sending unit assembly. The lock rings for both assemblies on pre-1991 models look similar, so it's easy to confuse the two. To avoid removing the wrong assembly, make sure you remove the assembly that has two pipes - the sending unit has only one pipe. 28 Lift the fuel pump and O-ring out of the Discard the old O-ring.

for cracks)

fuel tank.

24

29 Clean the sealing area of the fuel tank and install a new O-ring on the fuel pump. 30 Inspect the fuel inlet sock filter (strainer) on the fuel pump suction tube for damage

and new hose clamps. the filter mounting bolt, the bracket and the air intake housing. 25 Reconnect the cable to the battery, start the engine and check for fuel leaks at the Install

4-8

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

BRACKET FUEL

TANK FRONT

FUEL FILTER

FUEL RETURN HOSE TO RESERVOIR

When you

AIR

PUMP SOCK

HEATER

CONNECTOR

an electric fuel pump, make sure you reattach the fuel return hose to the reservoir (doesn't apply to 1991 models) - this hose brings fuel from the rest of the tank into the reservoir surrounding the fuel pump when the fuel level is low 5.31

AIR HEATER

TO AIR CLEANER

install

WIRING 7.2a

Mounting

CLIP

details of the air cleaner housing

-

2.2L engine

WIRING HARNESS

AIR CLEANER

GROUND

ASSEMBLY

FORWARD

AIR HEATER

CONNECTOR 7.2b

Mounting details of the

air

cleaner housing

and contamination. Replace it if it's damaged. On 1991 models, bend the locking tabs on the fuel pump reservoir assembly to clear the the locking tangs on the fuel pump filter (see illustration), pull the strainer off, remove the strainer O-ring from the fuel

pump

reser-

body. To

install the strainer on 1991 and models, lubricate the strainer O-ring with silicone spray lube, insert the strainer Oring into the outlet of the filter so its sits evenly on the step inside the filter outlet and push the strainer onto the inlet of the fuel pump reservoir body, making sure the locking tabs on the reservoir body lock over the locking tangs on the filter.

voir

later

31

Insert the fuel

pump

into the tank, reat-

tach the reservoir fuel return hose (if equipped) to the pump assembly (see illustration), place the pump in its installed position, set the lock ring in place and lock the pump into place with a hammer and a

BRASS punch wise

direction).

32

Install

-

2.6L engine

7.2c

Mounting details of the

Fuel tank cleaning and repair general information

6

-

2.5L engine

TURBO TO THROTTLE BODY HOSE 1 All repairs to the fuel tank or filler neck should be carried out by a professional who has experience in this critical and potentially dangerous work. Even after cleaning and flushing of the fuel system, explosive fumes

can remain and If

cle,

it

AIR

CLEANER COVER

AND HOSE ASSEMBLY AIR FILTER

HOUSING

ignite during repair of the tank.

removed from the vehiin an area where sparks or open flames could ignite the fumes coming out of the tank. Be especially careful inside garages where a natural gas-type appliance is located, because the pilot light could cause an explosion. 2

the fuel tank

is

shouldn't be placed

and

housing

-

ENGINE CONTROLLER

removal

1

ter

illustrations 7.2a, 7.2b, 7.2c,

and

7.

2d,

Loosen the hose clamps

the

air filter

element (see Chap-

that attach the

fresh air inlet tube to the air cleaner housing

(see illustrations).

7.21

Remove 1).

Mounting details of the air cleaner housing - 1989 turbo engine

installation 2

7.2e

TURBO BYPASS HOSE

FRESH AIR

DUCT TO AIR CLEANER

7.2d

Air cleaner

7

Refer to 4).

cleaner housing

-

(drive the lock ring in a clock-

the fuel tank (see Section

air

On

carbureted (2.2L and

2.6L) engines, also loosen the

the heated

inlet air

hose clamp

pipe at the

air

for

cleaner

Chapter 4

Fuel

4-9

and exhaust systems GASKET

TURBO TO THROTTLE BODY

THROTTLE BODY

GASKET

HOSE

INTAKE

MANIFOLD

AIR FILTER

TURBO

AIR CLEANER

ASSEMBLY

HOUSING BYPASS

SBEC MODULE

VALVE

ENGINE CONTROLLER

AIR

CLEANER COVER

AND TURBO

AIR CLEANER

BYPASS VALVE

BRACKET

ASSEMBLY 7.2e

Mounting details of the air cleaner housing 1990 turbo engine

-

7.2f

GROMMET

Mounting details of the air cleaner housing - 3.3L and 3.8L engines shown, 3.0L engine similar

THROTTLE

AUTOMATIC

CONTROL

TRANSMISSION CABLE

CABLE

WASHER RETAINER CLIP

8.1

Typical accelerator pedal

housing. Detach air

all

and cable

8.2a

details

Accelerator cable details

-

2.2L engine

hoses and tubes from the

cleaner housing. Label any small hoses to

assure proper reassembly.

3

Remove

GROMMET

the fastener(s) from

all

air

cleaner mounting brackets.

4

Remove

the

air

cleaner housing assem-

CUP

bly.

5

While you've got the

cleaner housing

air

removed, inspect the fresh air inlet tube and inlet air stove pipe for cracks or other damage. If either tube is damaged,

the heated replace

6

CABLE ASSEMBLY

CARBURETC LEVER

ASSEMBLY

WASHER

it.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

UPPER BRACKET Accelerator cable

8.2b

ACCELERATOR PEDAL RETURN SPRING

Accelerator cable - 2.6L engine

details

removal and

installation

remove the

clip

and separate the cable from

the pin or stud on the throttle lever, then

2.2L

and 2.6 L engines

Refer to 1

and 8.2b the vehicle, remove the

illustrations 8.

1,

8.2a

Working inside and detach the cable end from

retaining plug

the accelerator pedal shaft (see illustration). 2

Working

in

the engine compartment,

detach the cable from the mounting bracket (see illustrations). Compress the cable-tobracket fitting with wide-jaw pliers. Pull the cable assembly into the engine 3 compartment and remove it from the vehicle. Installation is the reverse of removal. 4

2.5L engine Refer to illustrations 8.6a and 8.6b 5

Working inside the vehicle, remove the and detach the cable end

retainer or plug

from the accelerator pedal shaft (see

illus-

tration 8.1). Remove the retainer clip from the cable assembly housing at the grommet

and

pull

the cable through the firewall.

4-10

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

ACCELERATOR CABLE

\\\\\\\W

On

8.11a

turbo engines, rotate the

throttle shaft until the cable is out of the

guide groove in the bellcrank, then slide the cable end out of the bellcrank

Use a small pair of needle-nose remove the retaining clip from the throttle lever (2.5L engine shown,

8.6a

8.6b

Squeeze the grommet with a

pair of

pliers to allow the

tabs to clear the bracket (2.5L engine shown, other fuelinjected engines similar)

pliers to

other fuel-injected engines similar)

THROTTLE BODY

DASH PANEL

8.11c

Installation

details of

accelerator cable at

body (3.3L and 3.8L engines)

throttle

THROTTLE CABLE BRACKET 8.1

1

b

Installation details of accelerator cable at throttle

body

(3.0L engine)

Working in the engine compartment, remove the retainer clip and separate the

remains

cable from the pin or stud, then detach the cable from the mounting bracket (see illustration). Compress the cable-to-bracket fitting with a pair of pliers (see illustration), then pull the cable through the bracket. Note:

nect the throttle cable and cruise control cable (if equipped) from the throttle body (see illustrations). Use a pair of pliers to compress the end fitting tabs so the cable can be separated from the mounting bracket. 12 To install the cable, insert the housing into the throttle valve on the throttle body. Insert the cable through the firewall grommet and connect it to the throttle pedal.

6

If

the vehicle

is

equipped with cruise

mark the position of

control,

the retaining clip

throttle lever with paint

on the

before disconnecting

it.

7

Remove

the cable from the engine

1

in

place.

Remove

the throttle retainer and discon-

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

9

and 3.8L

engines 8.

11a, 8.11b

Working inside the

and 8.11c

1

2

new

ones.

Remove the air cleaner assembly. On fuel-injected engines, relieve the

system pressure (see Section

fuel

2).

Disconnect the negative cable from the

replacement illustration 9.5a,

9.5b and 9.5c

and

twist

On

a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water

6

heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse

tings, the

(see

the engine compartment,

panel grommet, making sure the

grommet

and

pull to

remove the hose.

fuel-injected engines with quick-

pull

firewall

't

fitting

fuel

out of the dash

vehicle, disconnect

illustration 8.1).

the cable housing end

On carbureted engines and fuel-injected engines with conventional fuel hose clamps, loosen the hose clamps, wrap a cloth around each end of the hose to catch the residual 4

5

disconnect the cable from the in

-

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don 't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don work in a garage where

the throttle cable from the pedal shaft, then

Working

Fuel lines and fittings

Refer to

Refer to illustrations

1

released or removed with

battery.

2.5L turbo, 3.0L, 3.3L

9

Note: Since the EFI system is under considerable pressure, always replace all clamps

3

com-

partment.

8

it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

connect

fittings,

push

in

located on the end of the pull

the

fitting off

the fuel

on the

plastic ring

fitting

then gently

rail

or fuel pipe (see

illustrations).

When

reconnecting quick-connect fitof the fuel lines must be lubricated with a light coat of 30-weight engine

ends

Chapter 4

9.5b

Fuel

To detach a quick-connect fitting from the fuel rail, depress the plastic ring

Push the

oil.

4-11

and exhaust systems

fittings

.

.

onto the

fuel

rail

until

and

the line from the fuel end with a little bit of clean engine oil, then push on the fitting until it clicks into place and tug on it to ensure that the connection is locked into place (3.3L and 3.8L engines) 9.5c

rail -

.

.

.

pull

to reattach

it,

lubricate the

they click into place, then tug on the lines to

ensure the connection has been

made

prop-

10

erly.

7

9.5a Typical quick-connect fittings have an inner plastic lock-ring (fittings for 3.3L

and 3.8L engines shown, others

similar)

When

replacing hoses on fuel-injected

models which use conventional hose clamps, always use hoses marked EFI/EFM and use new original equipment-type hose clamps. 8 Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks. Install the air cleaner assembly. 9

IDLE

HEATED AIR DOOR

-

description and

service information

Description 2.2L engine Refer 1

AND CHOKE VACUUM

Carburetor

and 10.1b models 5220 and 6520 are

to illustrations 10. la

Holley

ADJUSTING SCREW

TUBE

BOWL VENT TUBE

CHOKE VACUUM KICK ADJUSTMENT

SCREW

EGR TUBE

AIR BYPASS TUBE

BRAKE BOOSTER TUBE

BOWL VENT TUBE CHOKE

VACUUM

TUBE

WIRING

CONNECTOR

FUEL INLET

ACCELERATOR

PUMP

CANISTER PURGE TUBE

CANISTER.

PURGE TUBE

CONCEALMENT PLUG

FUEL INLET

10.1a

Holley Model 5220 carburetor

4-12

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4 HEATED AIR DOOR

AND

SECONDARY ALTITUDE

CHOKE VACUUM TUBE

AIR TUBE

PRIMARY MAIN AIR ALTITUDE

TUBE

CONCEALMENT PLUG MANIFOLD

VACUUM

WIRING

TUBE

CONNECTOR

10.1b

staged dual venturi carburetors (see illustraThe primary bore is smaller than the secondary bore. The secondary stage is mechanically 2 operated by a linkage connecting the primary and secondary throttle levers. The primary stage includes a curb idle 3 and transfer system, diaphragm type accelerator pump system, main metering system and power enrichment system. On model 6520 carburetors, there's also an oxygen feedback solenoid that responds to input from the oxygen sensor. 4 The secondary stage includes a main metering system and power system. Both the primary and secondary venturi draw fuel from tions).

a 5

common The

float

bowl.

electric

automatic choke has a

bimetal two-stage heating element.

6

In

normal service, the

idle

mixture

Holley Model 6520 carburetor

type carburetor (see illustrations).

for

consists of the primary main

at

pilot jet,

jet,

the primary

the idle mixture adjusting screw and

the primary main nozzle.

10

A

fuel cut-off

The secondary metering system consecondary main jet, secondary jet, secondary main nozzle and a vac-

The Mikuni carburetor used on these models is a downdraft two-barrel compound

proach to

pilot

ing areas:

uum-controlled diaphragm.

17

12 The enrichment system consists of a spring-loaded, vacuum actuated diaphragm connected to an enrichment valve. 13 A mechanical accelerator pump con-

for leaks

diaphragm, a diaphragm a link rod and a follow-up

1

installation.

Perform a cylinder compression test. Clean or replace the spark plugs as nec-

essary.

A thermo-wax

is

21

thorough road test and check of car-

buretor adjustments should be done before

Check the resistance

wires (see Chapter

22

Service information A

vacuum hoses and actuators

securely.

20

15

all

and proper

Tighten the intake manifold nuts and carburetor mounting nuts evenly and

spring, a lever,

14

Inspect

18

sists of a flexible

type automatic choke controlled by engine coolant temperature.

7

disconnected

The proper apanalyzing carburetor problems

should include a routine check of the follow-

spring.

Refer to illustrations 10.7a and 10.7b

leak, are

sists of the

can be checked without removing the tamper

2.6L engine

components. Others develop

when vacuum hoses

or are incorrectly routed.

ing.

11

the carburetor are actually a result of

loose, misadjusted or malfunctioning engine

or electrical

solenoid prevents diesel-

shouldn't require adjustment. The idle speed resistant plug.

any major carburetor service. Specifications some adjustments are listed on the Vehicle Emission Control Information label found in the engine compartment. Some performance complaints directed 16

The basic components of the fuel inlet system are the fuel filter, the float needle valve and the float assembly. The idle and primary metering system 9 8

of the spark plug

5).

Inspect the ignition primary wires and the vacuum advance operation.

check

Replace any defective parts. 23 Check the ignition timing (see Chapter

1).

Chapter 4 COASTING AIR VALVE

4-13

Fuel and exhaust systems THROTTIE CABLE BRACKET THROTTLE OPENER

FRONT Of VEHICLE

SUB EGR VALVE

CHOKE HEATER HOSE

CHOKE WATER OUTLET

10.7a

Mikuni carburetor (California and high-altitude models) THROTTLE CABLE

CHOKE WATER

FUEl Nl£T

CONCEALED IDLE, MIXTURE SCREW

OUTLET

10.7b

Mikuni carburetor (Federal and Canadian models)

|

\FU6l CUTOFF

SOLENOID

4-14 24

Chapter 4

Inspect the heat control valve

in

the

air

cleaner for proper operation (see Chapters

1

and 6). 25 Remove the carburetor air filter element and blow out any dirt with compressed air. If the

filter is

extremely

dirty,

replace

it

one.

26

Inspect the crankcase ventilation sys-

tem (see Chapters 1 and 6). 27 Carburetor problems usually show up as flooding, hard starting, stalling, severe back-

and poor acceleration. A carburetor that is leaking fuel and/or covered with wet-looking deposits definitely needs attention. 28 Diagnosing carburetor problems may require that the engine be started and run with the air cleaner removed. While running firing

air

cleaner

it

is

possi-

could backfire. A backfiring situato occur if the carburetor is malfunctioning, but removal of the air cleaner ble that

tion

and exhaust systems

8

Remove the mounting nuts and carefully detach the carburetor from the manifold, taking care to hold it level. Do not remove the isolator mounting screws unless the isolator

26 27

must be replaced with a new one.

spilling fuel.

Disconnect the throttle linkage. Remove the mounting bolt and nuts and carefully detach the carburetor from the manifold. Keep the carburetor level to avoid

with a

new

the engine without the

Fuel

it

is likely

Installation

Installation

9 Inspect the mating surfaces of the carburetor and the isolator for nicks, burrs and debris that could cause air leaks. 10 Place the carburetor in position and

28

the mounting nuts, taking care not to

29

install

damage

the fast idle lever.

of the carbu-

and intake manifold for nicks, burrs and old gasket material which could cause air leaks.

Using a new gasket, place the carbureand install the mounting nuts and bolt. Tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications, following a tor in position

Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in Chapter's Specifications, following a

1

this

Check the mating surfaces

retor

criss-cross pattern.

criss-cross pattern.

Check all of the vacuum hoses and con12 nections for damage, replacing them with new parts if necessary, and install them. 13 Connect the throttle linkage and the fuel line.

Check the operation of the throttle linkage and the choke plate. 15 Connect the wiring harness and install

30

Connect the

throttle linkage

and the

fuel

hose. 31

and 32

Connect the coolant and vacuum hoses install

Refill

the carburetor protector.

the radiator with the specified

14

coolant (see Chapter

produce an engine backfire. Warning: Do not position your face directly over the carburetor opening in case of engine backfire. 29 Once it is determined that the carburetor is indeed at fault, it should be replaced with a

the

33 Check the operation of the throttle linkage and choke plate. 34 Install the air intake housing and the fuel

new

leaks.

alone can lean the

air/fuel

mixture enough to

or rebuilt unit, or disassembled, cleaned

and reassembled using new parts where necessary. Before dismantling the carburetor, make sure you have a carburetor rebuild kit, which will include all necessary gaskets and internal parts, carburetor cleaning solvent

and some means of blowing out all the internal passages of the carburetor. To do the job properly, you will also need a clean place to work and plenty of time and patience.

11

removal and

Carburetor

cleaner.

Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for

17

Check the engine

1

idle

tank cap. fuel

speed.

is

extremely flammable, so

when you work on any system. Don smoke or allow

part of the fuel

't

open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natwater heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. ural gas-type appliance (such as a

Check the engine

idle

speed (see Sec-

19 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 20 Remove the intake housing from the carburetor

air

Carburetor (2.2L engine) overhaul

-

horn.

Release any pressure which may exist in the fuel tank by removing the filler cap. Drain the cooling system (see Chap22 21

1).

Remove

12

the carburetor protector, tag vacuum and coolant

hoses and detach them from the carburetor. 24 Unplug the carburetor wiring harness connectors.

Place a metal container under the carinlet to catch any residual fuel and disconnect the fuel hose from the inlet

25

buretor fuel

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don 't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type

fire

extinguisher on hand.

fitting.

2.2L engine

Removal 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2 3 Remove the fuel tank filler cap as the tank could be under some pressure. 4 Place a metal container under the fuel inlet fitting and disconnect the fitting. Disconnect the wiring harness from the 5

carburetor.

6

Disconnect the

7

Tag and remove

buretor.

throttle linkage. all

hoses from the car-

fuel

leaks.

tion 14).

the locations of the

Warning: Gasoline

Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for

Removal

23

take extra precautions

35 36 37

2.6L engine

ter

installation

air

16

1).

1

2.1 a

Remove

the fuel

(2.2L engine)

inlet fitting

12.1b

Disconnect the choke rod (2.2L engine)

Chapter 4

12.1c

12.1e

Remove

the feedback solenoid mounting screws

Disconnect the

speed solenoid

air conditioner/idle

1

2.1

f

anti-rattle spring

12.1d

and detach the solenoid from the

The solenoid is held in place with two bolts (2.2L engine)

(2.2L engine)

Disassembly Refer to

illustrations 12. 1a

through

12.

4-15

Fuel and exhaust systems

air

horn (2.2L engine)

g The secondary throttle valves on 1985 and 1986 models are operated by a vacuum diaphragm which is held in place by three screws - remove the E-clip from the link post and disconnect the control 1 2.1

1w

rod (2.2L engine)

With the carburetor removed from the engine and a rebuild kit in hand, disassembly can begin. Carburetor disassembly is illustrated in a step-by-step fashion with photos. Follow the photos in the proper sequence and read the caption under each photo (see 1

illustrations).

2

Have a

work area to lay out removed from the car-

large, clean

the parts as they are

Many of the parts are very small and can be lost easily if the area is cluttered. 3 Take your time during disassembly. Sketch the relationship of the various components of any assembly which appears complicated or tag the various parts to avoid confusion during reassembly. Care taken during disassembly will pay off during reassembly. Begin disassembly starting with illustration buretor.

12.1a

Cleaning and inspection 4

After disassembly, clean the carburetor

components with a commercial carburetor solvent. Make sure you keep track of primary

12.1h

Remove the Wide Open Throttle cut-out switch (2.2L engine)

and secondary main metering jet and bleed assemblies as they must be reinstalled in their original locations.

5

The choke, vacuum diaphragms, Ofeedback solenoid, floats and seals

rings,

should not be placed could be damaged.

in

the solvent as they

2.1 Loosen the air horn screws in a criss-cross pattern to avoid warping it (2.2L engine) 1

i

4-16

up on the air horn to from the main body (2.2L engine)

Carefully pry

12.1j

release

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

it

12.1k Be careful not to bend the float as the air horn is removed (2.2L engine)

38

the float (2.2L engine)

S*

,t.

..

Withdraw the pivot pin and remove

12.11

^V

»

i

..J

^ rv *->

s

i^-V"

tf^^U^ r

.

12.1m

Loosen and remove the fuel needle and seat (2.2L engine)

inlet

in

12.1p Remove the accelerator pump discharge assembly (2.2L engine)

6

2.1

n

1 2.1 o secondary

bleeds and main well tubes

(note the sizes to ensure correct reinstallation) (2.2L engine)

the correct positions) (2.2L engine)

Invert the carburetor and catch 12.1q the accelerator pump discharge weight and check balls (2.2L engine)

Remove the primary and air

1

2.1

r

Remove

the accelerator

pump

cover (2.2L engine)

Clean the external surfaces of the car-

buretor with a soft brush and soak parts

_

\

Remove the primary and secondary main metering jets (note the numbers on them to ensure reinstallation 1

in

the solvent.

If

all

recommend the use of water for rinsing, hot water will produce the best results. After rinsing, all traces of water must be blown from the passages with comsolvent or cleaner

carburetor,

of the

the instructions on the

Caution: Never clean jets with a wire, drill bit or other metal objects. The orifices could become enlarged, making the mixture too rich for proper performance. When checking parts removed from the 7

pressed

air.

it

is

often difficult to be sure

they are serviceable.

It

is

if

therefore recom-

mended that new parts be installed, available, when the carburetor is reassembled. if

The required parts should be included rebuild

kit.

in

the

Chapter 4

Remove the pump diaphragm and 12.1s spring (be careful not to damage the

File the head off the choke 12.1t diaphragm cover rivet (if equipped)

diaphragm) (2.2L engine)

(2.2L engine)

12.1v

File

12. 1w

the heads off the choke and remove the ring (2.2L engine)

^y

Detach the choke housing

\

^

the breakaway screw (if the bottom hole (2.2L engine)

Install

equipped)

in

12.12 Rotate the choke diaphragm clockwise when installing it (2.2L engine)

"

""

W^^^^

i

the screws and detach the cover (2.2L engine)

>*

y 12.13

Remove

12.1u

(2.2L engine)

retainer ring rivets

4-17

Fuel and exhaust systems

12.15 Insert the screws through the cover holes before installing the screw

12.16

Accelerator

passage

pump

discharge

(2.2L engine)

(2.2L engine)

two top screws snugly, followed by the breakaway screw in the bottom place. Install the

8

After the parts

dried,

check the

have been cleaned and

throttle shaft for

excessive

Reassembly

hole (see illustration).

wear.

Refer to

Check the jets for damage and restrictions. Replace them if damage is evident. 10 Check for freedom of movement of the choke mechanism in the air horn. It should move freely for proper operation. 11 Replace any worn or damaged components with new ones.

12.16, 12.25, 12.26, 12.27, 12.28, 12.30,

9

illustrations 12.12, 12.13, 12.15,

12.31, 12.36, 12.37, 12.40a, 12.40b, 12.41

and 12.42 12

Press

down on

the choke lever, insert

the choke diaphragm and rotate

it

into posi-

tion (see illustration).

13

Position the spring and

14 Tighten the breakaway screw until the head breaks off. Tighten the top screws evenly and securely. 15 Install the accelerator pump, spring (small end first), cover and screws (see illustration).

16 fit

the cover

in

Fill

the float bowl with fuel to a depth of

one inch and drop the check

ball into

the

m

4-18

Chapter 4

12.25 Measuring the distance between the bottom of the float and the air horn to determine dry float level (2.2L engine)

Be sure

12.28

bending the

to support the pivot

float

Fuel and exhaust systems

Measuring the distance from the horn surface to the top of the float to determine float drop (2.2L engine)

12.26 air

when

12.30

drop adjusting tang

float

Be very

pump

discharge passage (see

illustration).

to

ball in

make

one ball kit.

to hold the

place and push the throttle lever

sure there

is

resistance

sequently no leakage. drain the fuel

(2.2L engine)

Tighten the air horn screws in a criss-cross pattern (2.2L engine)

bend the

12.31

horn

installing the air

bend the tang up or change the dry float level

Carefully to

Measure the dry

25

float level

(see illustra-

tion).

Use a small brass dowel

17

check

down

(2.2L engine)

(2.2L engine)

accelerator

careful not to

tangs when

12.27

If

there

and stake the

felt

and con-

is

leakage,

ball in

place with

two taps of the dowel. Remove the old and install the new one from the rebuild Install the weight and repeat the test. or

18 Install the accelerator pump discharge nozzle assembly. Install the primary main well tube and 19

speed bleed. Install the secondary main well tube and high speed bleed. 21 Install the primary main metering jet. On these carburetors the primary main metering jet will have a smaller number stamped on it than the secondary main metering jet. 22 Install the secondary main metering jet. Install the fuel inlet needle and seat 23 high

20

assembly. 24 Hook the new needle onto the and lower the assembly into place. float pivot pin.

26 Invert the air horn and measure the float drop (see illustration). 27 Adjust the dry float level by carefully bending the inner adjustment tang until the level is within the range listed in this Chapter's Specifications

28

(see illustration).

Bend the outer adjustment tang

to bring

the float drop within the range listed

in this

Chapter's Specifications (see illustration).

29 Install the choke seal and link and squeeze the link retainer bushing into place. 30 Position the gasket, engage the choke link and lower the air horn assembly into place (see illustration). Install the air horn screws and tighten them securely (see illustration). Install the wide open throttle cutout 32

31

switch.

Move

the switch

open with the

throttle

until

valve

the circuit

float

tang the

before the wide open position. Adjust the solenoid switch by loosening the retaining screw and using a screwdriver to rotate the switch until a click

34

a

new

O-ring

in

the solenoid

groove (2.2L engine) the anti-rattle spring.

35 36

Install

the idle speed solenoid.

Lubricate the feedback solenoid tip lightly with petroleum jelly and install a new

O-ring (see illustration).

is felt.

Tighten the bolt and screws and

Install

is

10-degrees

33

Install

12.36

install

37

Install

a

new gasket and

insert

the

Chapter 4

Rock the solenoid

12.37

gently from

choke

Installing the

12.40a

4-19

Fuel and exhaust systems

side-to-side to seat the O-ring

lever bushing

(2.2L engine)

(2.2L engine)

12.40b Rotate the housing approximately 1/8- turn clockwise to align the rivet holes (2.2L engine)

SPEED SCREW

IDLE

a/^ SOLENOID KICKER

Idle

4l

speed adjusting screw location (2.2L engine)

12.41

Install

pop

rivets to hold the

12.42

retainer ring in place (2.2L engine)

Be sure to install a new air intake housing gasket (2.2L engine)

Air conditioning idle solenoid into position (see illustration).

CVSCC

38 Install the solenoid screws and tighten them evenly and securely. 39 Wrap a piece of Teflon tape around the threads and install the fuel inlet fitting. 40 Install the choke inner housing lever bushing, followed by the spacer and outer housing with the spring end loop over the lever (see illustrations).

the choke housing rivets (see illustration). The shorter rivet goes in the

41

Install

bottom hole. 42 Install the intake housing gasket (see illustration).

13

(see Chapter 6

1

On

left

-

speed adjustment illustration 13.8

Start the engine

Check the

models, disconnect the oxygen feedtest connector located on the inner fender panel (6520 carbureted modall

back system left

is

it

until

normal

reached.

ignition timing 1),

and adjust as

then shut

off

the

engine.

On 1984 and 1985 models, disconnect and plug the vacuum connector at the

models are equipped speed when the air conditioning compressor engages, to compensate for the greater load placed on 11

Air conditioned

with a system which boosts idle

the engine. Prior to checking the tioning idle speed,

Unplug the fan electrical connector and install a jumper wire so the fan will run contin-

timing (see Chapter

uously.

engine

4

5

Remove

the

PCV

module so the valve engine compartment.

valve from the vent

will

draw

from the

air

7

Start the engine.

8

Check the

idle

speed

adjustment

els only).

correct.

air

check the curb

condi-

idle

make sure they The checks should be made with 1) to

and are

the

normal operating temperature. the air conditioner is engaged, the idle speed is increased by a vacuum or 1

at

When

solenoid-type kicker.

speed reading on the to the Emissions

Kicker operation can be checked by (at normal operating temperature), moving the temperature control to the coldest setting and then turning the air conditioning on. The kicker plunger should

13

running the engine

move

Control Information label. Turn the idle speed

in and out as the compressor clutch engages and disengages. Remove the air

screw (see

cleaner for better visual access to the kicker,

achieve the

and run

necessary (see Chap-ter 3

inner fender panel.

Leave the air cleaner in place and connect a tachometer. Ground the carburetor switch with a jumper wire.

operating temperature 2

On

1986 models, disconnect the wires from the kicker solenoid on the

tachometer and compare

Refer to

necessary).

6

Carburetor (2.2L engine) adjustments

Idle

if

it

illustration) as idle

speed

necessary to

listed in this

Chapter's

Specifications.

9 Shut off the engine and remove the tachometer. 10 Remove the carburetor switch jumper wire, plug in the fan connector, install the PCV valve and reinstall any vacuum hoses

and wires which were disconnected.

necessary (see illustration 13.8). 14 If the idle speed doesn't change as the air conditioner cycles on and off, check the if

system hoses and diaphragm

make

sure the

directs

vacuum

for leaks

and

vacuum solenoid (which

to the kicker)

is

operating.

If

no defective parts are found, replace the kicker with a new one and repeat the check.

4-20

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

GAUGE

TO VACUUM SOURCE ALLEN WRENCH -

13.17

Fast idle speed adjustment details (2.2L engine)

Fast idle adjustment

Anti-diesel adjustment

Refer to

Refer to

illustration

Perform Steps

15 16

13.17

through

1

uum hoses from

CVSCC

the

the vac-

and plug both

hoses.

17

Start

slightly

the engine,

and set the

open the throttle screw on the

fast idle

slowest step of the fast

idle

cam

(see

illus-

tration).

With the choke valve

18

fully

open, adjust

the fast idle speed to the specification on the

Emissions Control Information label by turning the adjustment screw. 1 Return the engine to idle, then reposition the fast idle screw on the slowest step of the fast idle cam to verify the fast idle speed. Adjust as necessary. 20 Turn off the engine, remove the tachometer and reconnect all components removed for the adjustment procedure.

IDLE SET

ter

1),

the engine to operating tem-

check the

then shut

it

ignition timing (see

off.

nector.

29 With the transaxle in Neutral, the parking brake set securely and the wheels blocked to prevent any movement, ground the carburetor idle stop switch with a jumper wire and turn the headlights

off.

illustration

Adjust the throttle stop speed screw (see illustration) to achieve an idle speed of 700 rpm. 31 Shut off the engine, remove the tachometer, remove the jumper wire and connect the carburetor idle stop switch wire.

13.25

at the closed choke position. Disconnect the carburetor vacuum hose, connect a vacuum pump and apply 15inches of vacuum. 24 Push the choke closed so the plates are at their smallest opening (use very light pressure and do not distort the linkage). The choke system internal spring will now be compressed. 25 Insert the appropriate size drill bit or gauge between the plate and the air horn wall at the primary throttle end of the carburetor. is

trapped

23

Check the clearance against the

Carburetor (2.6L engine) overhaul

-

Specifica-

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

Refer to 14. 7

14.

(2.2L engine)

Take your time during disassembly and sketch the relationship of the various parts to simplify reassembly. Remove the coolant hoses from the 2 choke and throttle valve assemblies. tered.

Remove

3

tration).

punch until

it

the choke cover by grinding or

the heads of the screws (see illus-

Use a small hammer and pointed edge of the remaining screw

to tap the is

loose (see illustration). Note the

10 through 14.26

(see illustration).

removed. Many of the parts are very small and can be lost easily if the work area is clut-

and adjust as necessary by turning an wrench inserted into the diaphragm

Anti-diesel adjustment details

illustrations 14.3a, 14.3b, 14.4, 14.5,

and

26 After adjustment, replace the vacuum hose and the air cleaner assembly.

Allen

13.30

Disassembly

With the carburetor removed from the vehicle (see Section 11) and a rebuild kit on hand, disassembly can begin. Have a large, clean work area to lay out parts as they are

tions

THROTTLE STOP SPEED SCREW

filing off

the choke and then close the throttle so the fast idle system

22

SCREWDRIVER

Start the engine.

30

kick

Remove the air cleaner. Open the throttle, close

21

SCREW

13.30

adjustment Refer to

kick adjustment details (2.2L engine)

ChapConnect a tachometer. 28 Remove the red wire from the 6-way connector on the carburetor side of the conperature,

14

Choke vacuum

illustration

Warm up

27

6.

On 1986 models, disconnect

Choke vacuum

13.25

1

14.3a

Choke cover screw (2.6L engine)

locations

Chapter 4 HAMMER

Fuel

4-21

and exhaust systems

~V'

•

POINTED PUNCH-

— GROUND WIRE

'0H

14.5

The remaining choke cover screw must be unscrewed with a hammer and punch (2.6L engine)

14.3b

CHOKE UNLOADER

14.7

Removing the choke

14.4

Removing the

fuel cut-off solenoid

(2.6L engine)

Removing the throttle opener assembly (2.6L engine)

LINK

link

and vacuum chamber

14.10

Air horn

mounting screw locations (2.6L engine)

(2.6L engine)

relationship

between the punched mark and

6

Remove

the throttle return spring and

scribed lines on the choke pinion plate. Dur-

damper

reassembly the marks must be realigned. 4 Remove the throttle opener link E-clip, followed by the two mounting screws. Lift the opener assembly off (see illustration). 5 Disconnect the ground wire, remove the mounting screw and detach the fuel cut-off

7

Remove

link,

followed by the

ing

solenoid (see illustration).

spring.

the choke unloader clips and

vacuum chamber

(two

Remove

10 air

the six screws and detach the

horn from the carburetor body (see

illus-

tration).

11

and remove the and needle assembly (see illustration).

Slide the pivot pin out

screws) (see illustration).

float

8 Disconnect the accelerator pump link from the throttle lever. Remove the vacuum hose connector 9 and hoses from the air horn (two screws).

Discard the

air

horn gasket.

Unscrew the

retainer and remove the needle seat and screen assembly, taking care not to lose the shim located under the seat

12

NEEDLE SEAT "O" RING SEAL

SCREEN

14.11

Removing the and needle seat assembly (note the O-ring and filter screen) 14.12

Removing

the float and inlet needle (2.6L engine)

FLOAT NEEDLE

(5j

retainer

(2.6L engine)

NEEDLE SEAT RETAINER

4-22

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4 NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS

SCREWDRIVER

Removing the

14.13

PRIMARY MAIN JET

Venturis (2.6L engine)

SECONDARY MAIN

JET

VENTURI RETAINER

14.14

Removing the main

jets (2.6L engine)

— SCREWDRIVER

BOWL VENT SOLENOID

TjQ

SECONDARY MAIN

JET

S©"* PRIMARY MAIN JET'

14.15

Removing the main

jet

14.16

main

jets with a

13 Remove the Venturis and retainers, discarding the O-rings. Mark the primary and secondary Venturis so they can be reinstalled in the same positions. The primary Venturis

tion).

Be sure

are the larger of the two (see illustration).

Unscrew the primary and secondary

of the

bowl vent assembly components

(2.6L engine)

(see illustration).

14

An exploded view

pedestals (2.6L engine)

screwdriver (see illustra-

to note the

numbers on the

jets

to simplify reassembly.

15 Remove the retaining screws and the primary and secondary jet pedestals (see illustration). Discard the gaskets. 16 Remove the bowl vent valve solenoid

and spring (three screws), followed by the remaining screw and the bowl vent assembly (see illustration). Discard the O-ring. 17 Remove the Coasting Air Valve (CAV)

assembly

(three screws) (see illustration).

Remove

18

and

jet

the enrichment valve assembly

(see illustration).

ENRICHMENT VALVE COVER ENRICHMENT VALVE

SPRING RETAINER SLEEVE SPRING RETAINER

DIAPHRAGM AND SEAL GASKET SPRING JET-

SPRING

CAV. COVER 14.17

An exploded view

of the

CAV assembly components

(2.6L engine)

14.18

An exploded view

of the enrichment valve

(2.6L engine)

components

A.S.V.

4-23

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4 COVER

SPRING RETAINER

PRIMARY PILOT

JET SET

DIAPHRAGM SEAL LOCK

SPRING RETAINER SLEEVE 14.19

An exploded view of the Air Switching Valve components (2.6L engine)

14.20

(ASV)

Primary

pilot jet set

mounting details

(2.6L engine)

The weight, check ball and hex nut must be reinstalled in their original

14.23 14.21

Secondary

pilot jet set

mounting

14.22

Air bleed jet locations

locations (2.6L engine)

details (2.6L engine)

(2.6L engine)

19 Remove the Air Switching Valve (ASV) assembly (see illustration). 20 Remove the screw, lock and primary

bleed jets from the top of the air horn (see illustration). Be sure to note their sizes as they must be reinstalled in the same loca-

24

tions.

assembly (see illustration). 26 Remove the E-clip and carefully slide the sub EGR valve pin from the lever, taking care not to lose the steel ball and spring

pilot jet set

21

pilot jet set

22

(see illustration). the screw, lock and secondary

Remove

23 Turn the carburetor body over carefully and catch the weight, check ball and hex nut

(see illustration).

Remove

the primary and secondary

(see illustration).

air

ACCELERATOR PUMP COVER AND FOLLOW UP SPRING

GASKET

Remove

the accelerator

pump assembly

(see illustration). 25 Remove the Jet Air Control Valve (JACV)

fp&W'

ACCELERATOR

PUMP DIAPHRAGM

JACV

COVER

ACCELERATOR PUMP

BODY WITH

INLET

CHECK BALL SPRING SPRING

14.24

An exploded view of the accelerator pump assembly components (2.6L engine)

DIAPHRAGM AND SEAL 14.25

An exploded view of the Jet Air Control Valve (JACV) components (2.6L engine)

4-24

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

BOOT SEAL

LEVER

E.G.R.

SUB

E.G.R.

VALVE

/

"E" CLIP "

SPRING

An exploded view of the sub-EGR valve assembly components (2.6L engine)

14.26

which maintain tension on the the sub

EGR

lever.

Remove

valve assembly (see illustra-

tion).

Cleaning and inspection Once

the carburetor has been comdisassembled, clean the parts with a commercial carburetor solvent. 28 The choke, vacuum diaphragms, 0-

27

pletely

ring;, electric solenoids, floats and seals should not be placed in the solvent as they could be damaged. 29 Clean the external surfaces of the carburetor with a soft brush and soak all of the parts in the solvent. If the instructions on the solvent or cleaner recommend the use of water for rinsing, hot water will produce the best results. After rinsing, all traces of water must be blown from the passages with compressed air. Caution: Never clean jets with a wire, drill bit or other metal objects. The orifices may be enlarged, making the mixture too rich for proper performance. 30 When checking parts removed from the carburetor, it is often difficult to be sure if they are serviceable. It is therefore recom-

Install a new O-ring and screen on the needle seat and install the shim in the air horn. Install the needle seat retainer and screw and tighten it securely. 49 Place the needle and float assembly in

move

in

position

tery

connected and out when the battery

31

check the

operation.

If

is

(toward the solenoid)

when

Refer

to illustrations 14.50,

36

have been cleaned and

throttle valve shaft for

proper

sticking or binding occurs, clean

EGR

valve

damage and restricdamage is evident.

jets for

Replace them

33

Check the

tions

and damage.

if

strainer screen for restric-

Check the vacuum chamber. Push the chamber rod in, seal off the nipple and 34

release the rod.

If

the rod does not return, the

vacuum chamber

is

most

likely in

good con-

when released, the diaphragm is defective. The vacuum chamber should be replaced with a new one this

dition.

If

the rod returns

if

condition exists.

35

To check the

components

(see illustration 14.26), attach the assembly body and secure it with the

fuel cut-off solenoid,

con-

retain

it

in

the

air

horn with the

Compare

it

to this Chapter's Specifica-

tions.

51

If

the dry float level

more

is

or less than

37

was during disassembly, remove the float, unscrew the inlet needle seat and add or remove shims (as necessary) to change the

throttle

float

to the carburetor E-clip.

Attach the JACV components to the body (see illustration 14.25). 38 Install the accelerator pump assembly components (see illustration 14.24). 39 Install the primary and secondary air jet bleeds in the air horn, noting that the secondary bleed has the highest number. 40 Install a new O-ring on the secondary pilot jet set, insert

the assembly and

install

the retaining screw. 41

a

Install

set

and

new

install

Attach the

O-ring on the primary

pilot

the assembly.

ASV components

to the car-

43 Install the jet, followed by the rest of the enrichment valve components (see illustration 14.18).

Assemble the CAV components (see assembly to the air horn and retain it with the three illustration 14.17), attach the

Check the

and

pivot pin.

level.

the sub

Install

44

oil.

48

50 Invert the air horn and measure the distance from the gasket surface (gasket removed) to the bottom surface of the float (see illustration) to determine the dry float

14.58a and

with engine

32

is

14.58b

the shafts with solvent and lubricate them

tions.

the bat-

buretor (see illustration 14.19).

kit.

After the parts

dried,

the

terminal

Reassembly

42

in

(+)

disconnected.

The required parts should be included carburetor rebuild

float level (2.6L engine)

and the wire from the solenoid. Connect a second jumper wire to the negative (-) terminal of the battery and the solenoid ground wire. The needle should

nect a jumper wire to the positive

jet

if

Checking the dry

of a 12-volt battery

mended that new parts be installed, availwhen the carburetor is reassembled.

able,

14.50

mounting screws. 45 Assemble the bowl vent valve (see illustration 14.16), install the valve and solenoid and tighten the mounting screws. 46 Using new gaskets, install the primary and secondary pedestals and mounting screws, followed by the main primary and secondary jets. Remember that the secondary jet has the largest number. 47 Attach new O-rings to the primary and secondary Venturis and install the Venturis and retainers.

it

height.

Repeat

the

the distance

procedure

as

as specified. 52 Using a new gasket, attach the main body to the throttle body and install the nut, required

until

is

check ball and weight. 53 Attach the air horn, using a new gasket, to the main body and secure it with the six mounting screws. 54 Attach the two vacuum hoses and the wiring connector to the throttle body and engage the accelerator rod link in the throttle lever.

Place the vacuum chamber in position 55 on the bracket, install the retaining screws and connect the vacuum hose and link to the secondary throttle lever. Connect the choke unloader link and retain it with the E-clips. 56 Install a new O-ring on the fuel cut-off solenoid, place the solenoid on the mixing body and install the retaining screw. Place with the ground wire in position and retain it

the screw.

57 Install the throttle opener on the air horn and connect the link with the E-clip. 58 Install the choke cover, using the special breakaway screws. Make sure the punch and scribe marks and the cam lever are correctly aligned (see illustrations).

59 tor

Attach the coolant hose and tighten the clamps.

to the carbure-

4-25

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4 PAINTED

SCREWDRIVER.

PUNCH MARK

CAM

LEVER

SCRIBED LINES

PINION PLATE IDLE SPEED

14.58a When installing the choke, make sure the punch mark and scribed lines are correctly aligned .

15

illustrations 15.4

and

-

engine, start the engine and allow

it

to

warm

up to normal operating temperature so the choke is fully open. Check the ignition timing

label. isn't,

bring the

rpm

turn the idle

speed screw

air

On

Air induction system The

air

induction system includes the

air

cleaner, throttle body, Throttle Position Sen-

sor (TPS), Automatic Idle

and turbocharger

(if

Speed

(AIS)

motor

equipped).

Fuel delivery system The tem.

It

fuel delivery fuel

15.5

system provides

fuel

conditioner and, with the compressor run-

speed

to the specified

turning the idle-up adjustment

screw

(see illustration).

The system includes an in-tank pump, fuel filter, check valves and return line. Power is supplied to the fuel pump through the power module via the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay. The ASD relay also controls the ignition coil, the fuel

and parts

of the

power module.

6

Fuel control system On

16

Fuel injection system

-

general

information types of Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) systems are used on these models. Single-point EFI is used on the normally aspirated 2.5L four-cylinder engine; multi-point EFI is used on the turbocharged 2.5L engine and on the 3.0L, 3.3L and 3.8L V6 engines. Both types are similar in operation. Each is an electronically controlled system which

combines tronic

and elecspark advance. The main sub-systems electronic fuel injection

include the

air

induction, fuel delivery, fuel

single-point EFI systems, the

ponents of the

com-

system are the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel injector and the throttle body (see illustrations 18.4a and

On

18.4b).

Two

fuel control

multi-point systems, they include

the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel fuel injectors

and the

throttle

rail,

the

body.

Fuel injectors On

both single and multi-point EFI sysis replaced

tems, the conventional carburetor

by a

throttle

body and

or throttle body, fuel point).

with

adjustment

(2.6L engine)

tank into the fuel control sys-

the fuel tank.

injectors

Shut off the engine, reconnect the cooling fan and remove the tachometer.

Air conditioner idle-up

screw location

also returns any excess fuel back into

electric fuel

air-conditioned models, turn on the

ning, adjust the idle

rpm by

and the Single Mod-

Engine Controller (SMEC) (1987 through 1989 models), Single Board Engine Controller (SBEC) (1990 and 1991 models) or Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (1992 and later models). Each system differs slightly in the type and location of these components. ule

from the to

to the proper curb idle setting

(see illustration). 5

control, emission control

1).

Disconnect the cooling fan wire, then open the throttle and run the engine at 2500 rpm for 10 seconds. Return the engine to idle and wait two minutes. 3 After waiting two minutes with the curb idle stabilized, check the rpm indicated on the tachometer and make sure it is the same as specified on the Emissions Control Infor2

it

(2.6L engine)

15.5

With the transaxle in Neutral, the parking brake set and the wheels blocked to prevent any movement, turn off the lights and all accessories. Connect a tachometer to the

mation 4 If

speed adjusting screw location

14.58b ... and index the painted gear tooth with the punch mark on the cam lever before tightening the screws (2.6L engine)

idle

1

(see Chapter

Idle

.

Carburetor (2.6L engine) speed adjustment

Refer to

15.4 PINION PLATE

SCREW

On

air in

injector (single-point)

rail

and

injectors (multi-

single-point EFI, the fuel

is

mixed

the throttle body and sprayed into

the intake manifold, which directs

it

to the

intake ports EFI, the fuel

by the

and is

cylinders.

sprayed

On

multi-point

directly into the ports

fuel injectors, with the intake

supplying only the

manifold

air.

Because

of the complexity of the EFI and the special equipment required to troubleshoot it - the home mechanic can do little diagnosis. But checking electrical and vacuum connections to make sure they're clean, tight and undamaged can often eliminate a potential or current problem. Because the SMEC/SBEC is dependent on the data provided by information sensors and transmitted through electrical and vacuum connections, a thorough visual check and repair of any damaged or loose connections, wires or vacuum hoses can save diagnostic time and unnecessary trips to the dealer or

system

-

repair shop.

Besides the simple checks described the next Section, further diagnosis

in

is difficult,

but once you've determined - with the help of your dealer - that a component is defective, we'll show you how to replace it in the following Sections.

4-26

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

FUEL PRESSURE

REGULATOR AIR CLEANER

ADAPTOR

FUEL INJECTOR ELECTRICAL

CONN

FUEL INLET NIPPLE

CANISTER PURGE NIPPLE

AUTOMATIC SPEED

IDLE

MOTOR

(AIS)

MAP

HEATED AIR AND

SENSOR NIPPLE

CANISTER PURGE SIGNAL NIPPLE

THROTTLE POSITION

SENSOR AIR CLEANER

FUEL INJECTOR

FUEL PRESSURE

CAP

REGULATOR

(TPS)

ATTACHING

STI

CANISTER PURGE NIPPLE

THROTTLE BODY TEMPERATURE

BRAKE BOOSTER

VACUUM

SENSOR

NIPPLE

18.4a

Throttle

body

for dirt,

17

Fuel injection system

-

check

it's dirty,

details (1987 through

1990 2.5L engines)

carbon or other residue build-up. If clean it with carburetor cleaner and

a toothbrush.

Note: the following procedure is based on the assumption that the fuel pressure is adequate (see Section 3). 1

Check the ground

wire connections on

the intake manifold for tightness.

Check

all

wiring harness connectors that are related to

7

With the engine running, place a screw-

driver against

each

injector,

one

at

a time,

and

listen through the handle for a clicking sound, indicating operation. 8 The remainder of the system checks can be found in the following Sections.

the system. Loose connectors and poor

grounds can cause many problems that resemble more serious malfunctions. Check to see that the battery is fully 2 charged, as the control unit and sensors depend on an accurate supply voltage in

body (single-point removal and installation

Throttle

EFI)

-

intake duct to the intake manifold for leaks,

which

type

3

Check the

air filter

fuel.

element

-

a dirty or

blocked filter will severely impede performance and economy (see Chapter 1). 4 If a blown fuse is found, replace it and see if it blows again. If it does, search for a grounded wire in the harness to the fuel partially

pump. 5

On

multi-point systems,

will result in

check the

air

an excessively lean mix-

Also check the condition of all vacuum hoses connected to the intake manifold. 6 On multi-point systems, remove the air intake duct from the throttle body and check

7).

Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Section 2).

Disconnect the negative cable from the

3

battery.

Disconnect the vacuum hoses and elecconnectors (see illustrations). 5 Disconnect the accelerator cable (see Section 8), and (if equipped) the cruise control and transaxle kickdown cable (see Chap4

trical

ter 7).

18

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B

order to properly meter the

Section 2

fire

extinguisher on hand.

Removal 1

Place rags or newspapers under the

the throttle return spring. fuel

hoses to catch the residual fuel. Loosen the clamps, wrap a cloth around each fuel hose and pull them off. Remove the copper washers from the hoses, noting their locations.

Remove

8

the mounting bolts or nuts (see

and

illustration)

lift

the throttle

body

off

the

manifold.

Installation Inspect the mating surfaces of the throt-

9

body and the manifold for nicks, burrs and debris that could cause air leaks. tle

10

Using a new gasket, place the throttle in

position

and

install

the mounting

bolts or nuts.

illustration 18.4a,

Remove

Remove

7

body

ture.

Refer to

6

the

air

18.4b

and

18.8

cleaner assembly (see

11

Tighten the bolts or nuts to the torque

listed in this

Chapter's Specifications, follow-

Chapter 4

4-27

Fuel and exhaust systems

FUEL PRESSURE

REGULATOR AIR CLEANER

^OR

FUEL INJECTOR ELECTRICAL

CONN]

FUEL INLET NIPPLE

CANISTER PURGE NIPPLE

AUTOMATIC SPEED

(AIS)

IDLE

MOTOR

MAP

HEATED AIR AND

SENSOR NIPPLE

CANISTER PURGE SIGNAL NIPPLE

CAP

REGULATOR

SENSOR

(TPS)

AIR CLEANER ATTACHING STUBS.

FUEL INJECTOR

FUEL PRESSURE

THROTTLE POSITION

CANISTER PURGE NIPPLE

EGR VACUUM SIGNAL NIPPLE

BRAKE BOOSTER

VACUUM

NIPPLE

18.4b

Throttle

body

details (1991 2.5L engine)

ing a criss-cross pattern. Work up to the final torque in three or four steps. 1 Check all of the vacuum hoses and electrical connectors for damage, replacing them with new parts if necessary, then connect

them. 13 Connect the accelerator cable and (if equipped) cruise control and kickdown cable. 1

15

Connect the throttle return spring. Using new clamps and washers,

install

the fuel hoses.

16

Check the operation

of the throttle link-

age.

17 18 19

Install

the

air

cleaner assembly.

Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for

fuel

leaks.

Remove the two long bolts (arrows) and the two short bolts (arrow) from the throttle body (the shorter rear bolt is hidden from view)

18.8

19

Fuel pressure regulator (singlepoint EFI) check, removal and installation

immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B it

Warning: Gasoline

extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don 't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse is

off

type

fire

extinguisher on hand.

Check Follow the fuel pressure checking procedure in Section 3 for diagnosis of the fuel pressure regulator. 1

Use a Torx drive socket (no. 25) and remove the three bolts from the regulator

19.5

Removal Refer to illustrations 19.5 and 19.7

2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see Section 7). Relieve the fuel system pressure (see 3 Section

4

2).

Disconnect the negative cable from the

battery.

5

Remove

the three screws

(this

will

require a no. 25 Torx drive socket) from the regulator (see illustration).

4-28

Chapter 4

Fuel

and exhaust systems

FUEL INJECTOR

INJECTOR CAP

USE 2 SCREWDRIVERS IN CAP SLOTS TO REMOVE INJECTOR CAP

Remove

20.8

Use two small screwdrivers the injector cap off

20.7 19.7

If

the regulator

is still

Wrap a cloth around the fuel inlet cham6 ber to catch any residual fuel, which is under pressure.

Withdraw the pressure regulator from

the throttle body (see illustration).

on the injector and gently prying

so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don 't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B

present. it

Carefully remove the O-ring from the 8 pressure regulator, followed by the gasket.

off

type

fire

extinguisher on hand.

10

Place the pressure regulator throttle

body, press

it

in

position

into position

and

the three mounting screws. Tighten the screws securely. 11 Connect the negative battery cable. Check carefully for any fuel leaks. Install

Section

20

the

air

cleaner assembly (see

7).

Fuel injector (single-point EFI)

-

check, removal and installation Warning: Gasoline

is

extremely flammable,

With the engine running, or cranking,

lis-

automotive stethoscope and verify that the injector sounds as if it's operating normally. If you don't have a stethoscope, touch the area of the throttle body immediately above the fuel injector with your finger and try to determine whether the injector feels like it's operating smoothly. It should sound/feel smooth and uniform and its sound/feel should rise and fall with engine rpm. If the injector isn't operating, or sounds/feels erratic, check the injector electrical connector and the wire harness connector. If the connectors are snug, check for voltage to the injector using a special injector harness test light (available at

most auto parts

isn't

operating, or

stores).

If

up

if

it's

it.

Removal Refer to

illustrations 20.

Remove

2

Section

the

air

7,

20.8 and 20.9

cleaner assembly (see

7).

Relieve the fuel system pressure (see 3 Section 2). Disconnect the negative cable from the 4

On

1

987 models, remove the

sure regulator (see Sec-tion

ten to the sound from the injector with an

install

12

Check 1

it

operating erratically, replace

5

O-ring.

on the

the injector and

it

battery.

Installation Place a new gasket in position on the 9 pressure regulator and carefully install a new

the fuel injector by

inserting a small screwdriver into the slot

fastened to

the throttle body after the bolts have been removed, wiggle the regulator to free-up the hardened rubber seal

7

to pry

there's voltage to

Remove

6

fuel pres-

19).

the Torx screw that holds the

injector cap.

7 fully

Use two small screwdrivers and carepry the cap off the injector using the

appropriate slots (see illustration).

Place a small screwdriver into the hole

8 in

the injector and gently pry the injector from

the throttle

9

body

unit

(see illustration).

Peel the upper and lower O-rings off the

(see illustration). If the lower Oinjector, be sure to retrieve it

fuel injector

ring isn't

on the

from the

throttle

body.

Installation Refer to

illustrations 20. 12a, 20.

12b and

20.13

10

Install

new O-rings on

the injector and a

FUEL INJECTOR ELECTRICAL

TERMINALS

LOWER O-RING

O-RING 20.9

Fuel injector details

20.12a

Alignment details of the cap and injector (1987 models)

4-29

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

O-RING

FUEL PRESSURE

REGULATOR

ALIGN WIRING TERMINALS WITH HOLE

LOCATING

NOTCH 20.13 Rotate the cap so the screw aligns with the slot in the cap

LOCATING LOBE 20.12b

new

O-ring on the injector cap. Note:

injectors ring.

Alignment details of the cap and injector (1988 through 1991 models)

New

come equipped with a new upper O-

Coat the O-rings with engine

oil to

help

injector installation. 1

Insert the injector into the throttle body.

12

Place the injector cap onto the

The

injector

21.8 Measure the length of the pintle -

injector.

and cap are keyed and must be

if it protrudes more than 1-inch, take it to a dealer service

aligned properly (see illustrations). 1 Rotate the cap and injector to line up the attachment hole (see illustration). Tighten the screws securely. 14 Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks. 15 Turn off the engine and install the air

department or other shop equipped with the necessary tool to have it

repair

retracted

cleaner assembly.

21

Automatic

Idle

Speed

(single-point EFI)

-

(AIS)

motor

AUTOMATIC

check,

SPEED

(AIS)

IDLE

MOTOR

removal and installation Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don 't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

The Automatic

4 Unplug the AIS motor.

Speed

motor is or the SBEC (com(AIS)

Removal

electrical

Disconnect the negative cable from the

illustration

21.8

make

Prior to installation,

is in

the retracted position.

If

sure the pintle

the retracted

measurement is more than 1-inch, the AIS motor must be taken to a dealer service department to be retracted (see illustration). Install a new O-ring and insert the AIS 9 motor into the housing, making sure the Opintle

the two retaining screws. Tighten

the

air

cleaner assembly and con-

Plug the electrical connector. Install the throttle body temperature

sensor (see Chapter

22

Throttle

body

removal and

(multi-point EFI)

-

installation

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don 't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type

extinguisher on hand.

fire

Removal 1

illustrations 22.5a,

22.5b and 22.5c

Disconnect the negative cable from the

battery.

the screws securely.

12

Install

Refer to

ring isn't dislodged. Install

3

connector on the

8

10

1

nect the negative battery cable.

Remove the throttle body temperature sensor (see Chapter 6). 6 Remove the two retaining screws (no. 25 Torx) from the AIS motor. Pull the AIS from the throttle body. Make 7 sure the O-ring doesn't fall into the throttle body opening.

1

battery.

cleaner assembly (see

5

Refer to Idle

monitored by the SMEC puter). If the AIS malfunctions, a trouble code is stored in the computer's memory. To get the module to display any stored trouble codes, refer to the appropriate Section in Chapter 6. If a Code 25 is displayed, check the AIS motor circuit for problems. If necessary, replace the AIS motor.

2

air

Installation

Check 1

Remove the 3 Section 7).

6).

2

Remove

from the

Remove

the clamp and

throttle

the

air

air

cleaner hose

body (see Section

cleaner assembly.

7 or 25).

4-30

Chapter 4

Fuel

and exhaust systems

CANISTER PURGE

CANISTER PURGE

NIPPLE

NIPPLE

NIPPLE

(PORTED VACUUM)

(MANIFOLD VACUUM)

CANISTER PURGE

CANISTER PURGE NIPPLE

(MANIFOLD VACUUM)

THROTTLE POSITION

SENSOR

AUTOMATIC (AIS)

22.5a

IDLE

SPEED THROTTLE LEVER

MOTOR

Throttle

CANISTER PURGE

(TPS)

body external

details (2.5L turbo engine)

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)

NIPPLE

EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR)

AUTOMATIC

SIGNAL NIPPLE

(AIS)

22.5b

Throttle

IDLE

NIPPLE

SPEED

EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR)

MOTOR

SIGNAL NIPPLE

body external

CANISTER PURGE (PORTED)

VACUUM

CANISTER PURGE

details (3.0L engine)

CANISTER PURGE (MANIFOLD).

NIPPLE

VACUUM NIPPLE

CANISTER PURGE (MANIFOLD) VACUUM NIPPLE

CANISTER PURGE (PORTED)

VACUUM

NIPPLE

THROTTLE POSITION

SENSOR

AUTOMATIC

IDLE

(AIS)

(TPS)

SPEED

MOTOR 22.5c

Throttle

body external

details (3.3L engine)

4-31

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

PCV

AUTOMATIC IDLE SPEED

BRAKE BOOSTER HOSE

(AIS)

MOTOR

23.5

Carefully

remove the AIS motor from the

throttle

body

24.1

Disconnect the intake

plenum

PCV and brake

(3.0L engine

booster hoses from the shown, 3.3L engine similar)

air

the battery.

Unplug the four-way

3 tor

electrical

connec-

from the AIS.

Remove

4

the two AIS motor-to-throttle

body screws.

Remove the AIS motor from the throttle Make sure the O-ring remains on the

5

Details of the

24.2

body.

and vacuum connections and the intake plenum strut (3.3L and 3.8L engines) electrical

motor (see

illustration).

Installation 6

Carefully position the AIS

new

O-ring

-

motor (using

new motors should be

already

equipped with O-rings) on the throttle body. 7 Install the screws and tighten them securely.

Plug

9

Connect the negative battery cable.

24

Air intake EFI)

3

Remove

the return spring and discon-

down

Tighten the clamps securely.

transaxle kickdown cable

1

Connect the negative battery cable.

23

Automatic

Chapter 4

(if

equipped) (see

Detach

the

throttle

cable

from

Unplug any electrical connectors from the throttle body (see illustrations). 6 Mark and disconnect any vacuum hoses 7 tle

throttle

Remove

the bolts and detach the throt-

body from the

intake manifold.

Place the throttle body in position and the mounting bolts. Tighten them in a criss-cross pattern to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 8

install

Connect the vacuum hoses. Plug

in

the electrical connectors.

the bracket and connect the and (if equipped) cruise control and automatic transaxle kick11

cleaner hose and adapter.

air

Idle

Speed

(multi-point EFI)

and

-

(AIS)

motor

check, removal

Install

throttle cable, return spring

puter's

Speed

(AIS)

motor

is

memory. To get the module

to display

any stored trouble codes, refer to the appropriate Section in Chapter 6. If a Code 25 is displayed, check the AIS system.

Removal to illustration

Refer to 24.6b

illustration 24.

1,

24.2, 24.6a

and

The procedure

for

removing and

turbo plenum/intake manifold

installing the

is in

Chapter

2,

tration). Idle

monitored by the Logic Module, SMEC or the SBEC (computer). If the AIS motor malfunctions, a trouble code is stored in the com-

2

(multi-point

1 Disconnect the PCV and brake booster hoses from the air intake plenum (see illus-

The Automatic

Refer

plenum

removal and installation

Part A.

installation

Check 1

-

Note: The following procedure applies to 3.0L and 3.3L engines; the 2.5L turbo engine has a one-piece plenum and intake manifold.

body.

Installation

9 10

the

its

8).

5

from the

Install

7).

bracket (see Section

in

cable.

nect the accelerator cable (see Section 8) and remove the cruise control and automatic

12

the four-way connector.

8

On

3.3L engines, remove the mounting EGR tube flange, unplug the electrical connector from the charge temperature sensor, detach the vacuum harness

2

bolts from the

air intake plenum and remove the cylinder head-to-intake plenum

connectors from the

strut (see illustration). 3 On 1990 and 1991 3.0L engines, detach the ignition coil from the air intake plenum

(see Chapter

23.5

Disconnect the negative cable from

4 coil

On

5).

3.3L and 3.8L engines, detach the DIS

pack (see Chapter

5).

4-32

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

Air intake

24.6a

plenum fasteners

tighten the bolts

in

-

the order

when installing the plenum, shown (3.0L engine) 24.6b

Air intake

- when installing the plenum, shown (3.3L and 3.8L engines)

plenum fasteners

tighten the bolts in the order

DETONATION SENSOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR

FUEL RAIL ATTACHING BOLTS Typical fuel pressure regulator and

25.6

vacuum hose

25.8

layout on

Remove the

fuel rail attaching bolts (2.5L turbo engine)

multi-point fuel injection systems (2.5L turbo engine)

5

If

you're replacing the

remove the

air

intake plenum,

body (see Section 22); if you're simply removing the plenum to service throttle

25

Fuel EFI)

assembly (multi-point removal and installation

-

plenum. Remove the air intake plenum fasteners 6 (see illustrations) from the intake manifold,

remove the plenum and discard the old gaskets. Cover the intake manifold with a clean shop towel to prevent dirt and debris from entering the engine.

7

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Remove

the shop towel from the lower intake

Make

sure the gasket surface is spotless. Place the new gaskets on the lower intake manifold (on 3.0L engines, the beaded sealer faces up). Put the air intake plenum in place, install the mounting fasteners and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications following the correct manifold.

sequence (see

illustrations 24.6a

and

24.6b).

Removal Refer to

the lower intake manifold, the heads, etc.,

don't remove the throttle body from the

2.5L turbo engine

rail

Warning: Gasoline

extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. is

4

illustrations

Remove

25.6 and 25.8

the quick-disconnect fittings

from the chassis fuel lines, or the hose clamps and hoses from the fuel rail assembly.

5

Disconnect any

(fuel injector,

electrical

connectors

detonation knock sensor,

etc.)

from the injector wiring harness. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the 6 fuel pressure regulator (see illustration) and loosen the regulator/return

line

nut using two

wrenches. Detach the hose from the regulator.

Remove the PCV vacuum harness and vacuum vapor harness from the intake mani7

1

Relieve the fuel system pressure (see

Section 2

2).

fold

Disconnect the negative cable from the

battery.

3

Remove

Section

7).

8

if

equipped (see

Remove

the fuel

illustration 25.6). rail

mounting bolts (see

illustration).

the

air

cleaner assembly (see

9

Grasp the

fuel

rail

and

injector

assembly

Chapter 4 VAPOR AND VACUUM

TPS ELECTRICAL

HARNESS

CONNECTION

Pm

JJllJII

X

AIS AIS

25.22 (AIS)

MOTOR

4-33

Fuel and exhaust systems

MOTOR

ATTACHING NUTS (2)

'

EGR TUBEv

CONNECTION

ELECTRICAL

Unplug the electrical connector for the Automatic Idle Speed motor and the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (3.0L engine)

25.25

nuts and detach the EGR tube flange from the intake plenum (3.0L engine)

Remove these two

FUEL PRESSURE

AIR INTAKE

REGULATOR

PLENUM

VACUUM CONNECTOR

1 IP 25.26 Unplug the electrical connectors from the charge temperature sensor and the coolant temperature sensor (3.0L engine)

and

pull

ports.

the injectors straight out of their

Working

the injector O-rings, remove the

from the vehicle. The

be removed

damaging

carefully, to avoid

until

assembly must not detached from rail

fuel injectors

the fuel

rail is

the vehicle.

10 Support the fuel remaining fuel hoses.

rail

and disconnect the

Installation 1

Prior to installation,

tors are securely seated

the lock rings

12

in

make in

sure the injec-

the fuel

rail

with

make

sure

place.

they're clean.

13 Lubricate the injector O-rings with clean engine oil. 14 Insert the injector assemblies carefully

and

install

the bolts and

ground straps. Tighten the bolts evenly in a criss-cross pattern so the injectors are drawn evenly into place.

Once

the injectors are

seated, tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

Connect the

Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the air intake plenum vacuum connector (3.0L engine)

connecand secure the harness

injector electrical

tors to the injectors

16 Install the bracket bolt. 1

Connect the

uum

hose.

Throttle Position

fuel

rail-to-valve

cover

Sensor (TPS) (see

illustra-

tion).

Disconnect the vacuum hose connec-

23

with the clips.

tions from the throttle

body (see

illustration

25.22). fuel

pressure regulator vac-

24 Disconnect the PCV and brake booster hoses from the air intake plenum (see Sec-

18 Reconnect the fuel supply hose. Clamp on the rail and tighten the clamp securely. 19 Check to make sure the ground straps, hoses, wiring harnesses and connectors are

tion 24).

securely installed

the charge temperature

20

Inspect the injector holes to

into their ports

15

25.27

in

their original locations.

Connect the negative battery cable.

25

Disconnect the

EGR

tube flange from

the intake plenum (see illustration).

connectors from sensor and the coolant temperature sensor (see illustra-

26

Unplug the

electrical

tion).

3.0L engine

27

Removal

intake

Detach the vacuum hoses from the air plenum vacuum connector (see illus-

tration).

Refer to illustrations 25.22, 25.25, 25.26, 25.27, 25.31 and 25.32

28

hoses from the

Disconnect the

fuel

Remove

intake

fuel

rail.

Detach the accelerator cable (see Secand transaxle kickdown cable (see Chapter 7). 22 Unplug the electrical connector for the Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor and the 21

tion 8)

29

the

air

plenum (see Sec-

tion 24).

30 Cover the intake manifold with clean shop rags to prevent dirt and debris from entering the engine.

4-34 _LOWER MANIFOLD MUST

BE

COVERED DURING SERVICE

COVERED INTAKE MANIFOLD

FUEL INJECTORS

FUEL PRESSURE

CANISTER PURGE

VAPOR HOSE 25.31

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

WIRING CONNECTORS

REGULATOR VACUUM HOSE

1

Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the fuel fuel pressure regulator (3.0L engine) CANISTER PURGE

(PORTED)

VACUUM

rail

ELECTRIC EXHAUST

NIPPLE

and the

25.32

GAS

Unplug the

connector for the harness (3.0L engine)

electrical

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR

RECIRCULATION (EGR)

TRANSDUCER

fuel injector wiring

HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR 4-WAY ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) 3-WAY

^

ELECTRICAL

CONNECTOR

25.55 Remove the vacuum hose harness

from the AUTOMATIC

MOTOR 3-WAY

31 fuel

IDLE

SPEED

ELECTRICAL

CONNECTOR

1

Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the and the fuel pressure regulator (see

illustration).

Unplug the

electrical

fuel injector wiring

Remove

33

connector

harness (see

for the

illustration).

the fuel pressure regulator (see

Section 27).

lift

the fuel

25.58

electrical connectors from the the oxygen sensor (3.3L engine)

Unplug the

the hose clamps are snug. 41

Install

supply and return tube and the hold-down bolt for the vacuum crossover tube. Tighten both bolts securely.

42

Plug

in

the electrical connector for the

rail

rail mounting bolts and assembly from the intake man-

the fuel

ifold.

Installation

Reattach the vacuum harness for the pressure regulator and the fuel rail assembly. 44 Install the air intake plenum (see Sec-

ring in place (see Section 26).

38

Put the

respective port.

of

until

the injectors are seated

39

Install

tighten

them

to

in

their ports.

mounting bolts and the torque listed in this Chap-

the fuel

45

Connect the fuel line to the fuel rail and hose clamps securely. Connect the vacuum harness to the air

tighten the

46

intake plenum.

47 Plug in the electrical connectors for the charge temperature sensor and coolant tem-

rail

ter's Specifications.

40 Install the fuel pressure regulator and hose assembly (see Section 27). Make sure

to

the throttle body.

Reattach the accelerator cable (see 52 Section 8) and transaxle kickdown linkage (see Chapter 7). 53 Install the air cleaner assembly. 54 Connect the negative battery cable.

48

Reattach the

3.3L and 3.8L engines Removal Refer to

EGR

tube flange to the

air

plenum (see Chapter 6). 49 Reconnect the PCV and brake booster supply hoses to the intake plenum. 50 Plug in the electrical connectors for the automatic idle speed (AIS) motor and throttle intake

position sensor (TPS).

illustrations 25.55, 25.58, 25.64,

25.65 and 25.67

Remove

55

the

vacuum hose harness from

the throttle body (see illustration).

Remove the PCV and brake booster 56 hoses from the air intake plenum (see Section 24).

Remove

the mounting bolts from the tube flange. Unplug the electrical connector for the charge temperature sensor, detach the vacuum harness connectors from

57

perature sensor.

each injector into its Push the assembly into place

tip

sensor and

43

fuel

tion 24).

Make sure the injector holes are clean 35 and all plugs have been removed. 36 Lube the injector O-rings with a drop of clean engine oil to facilitate installation. 37 Make sure all injectors are properly seated into their receiver cups with the lock

MAP

Reconnect the vacuum vapor harness

51

the hold-down bolt for the fuel

fuel injector wiring harness.

Remove

34

body

/

rail

32

throttle

(3.3L engine)

(AIS)

EGR

the

air

intake

plenum and remove the cylinder

head-to-intake plenum strut (see Section 24). 58 Unplug the electrical connectors for the

MAP

sensor and the oxygen sensor (see

illustration).

Remove

the engine-mounted

Remove the screw from

the retainer bracket for the fuel tube (not visible in this photo) and remove the fuel rail retaining bolts (arrows) (3.3L engine)

25.64

ground strap. 59 Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel rail (see Section 9). 60 Remove the DIS coil pack (see Chapter 5).

Remove

61

the bolt that attaches the alter-

Remove

the

air

intake

plenum

and Cover

bolts

remove the plenum (see Section 24). the intake manifold with clean shop towels to prevent dirt and debris from entering the engine.

63 Remove the vacuum harness connector from the fuel pressure regulator. 64 Remove the screw from the retainer bracket for the fuel tube and the fuel rail retaining bolts (see illustration).

Detach the

65

fuel

rail

injector clip

from the

alternator bracket (see illustration).

Unplug the

66 the

cam

electrical

cam

25.65 bracket

The -

reference sensor, the coolant tem-

sensor.

73 Attach the wiring clip for the fuel injector harness to the alternator bracket. 74 Reconnect the vacuum line to the fuel

Remove

75

the shop towels from the lower

intake manifold, clean the gasket surface,

place a new gasket on the lower manifold, put the plenum (upper manifold) in position and install the bolts finger tight. Reattach the alternator bracket to the intake manifold and the cylinder head-to-intake manifold strut. Don't tighten the bolts for either bracket yet. Tighten the plenum bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications, then tighten the alternator bracket bolt and strut bolts securely.

connectors from

reference sensor, the coolant tem-

76 trical

Reattach the ground strap and the elecconnectors for the MAP sensor, the

oxygen sensor and the charge temperature

sensor (see Chapter 6). 67 Remove the fuel rail (see illustration). Make sure you don't damage the rubber injector O-rings as you pull the injectors from

sensor.

77 Using a new gasket, reattach the EGR tube flange to the intake manifold (see Chap-

their respective ports.

78

Installation

Reconnect the vacuum harness to the plenum and reconnect the PCV sys-

tem.

68 Make sure the injector holes are clean and all plugs have been removed. Replace the O-rings if they're damaged. 69 Lubricate the injector O-rings with a drop of clean engine oil to facilitate installa-

Pop

79 in

the wiring harness clip into the hole

the accelerator cable bracket.

80

Reconnect the

electrical

connectors to

the AIS and the TPS. 81

Reconnect the vacuum harness

tion.

throttle

Place the tip of each injector into its respective port and push the fuel rail/fuel

82 Chapter 5). 83 Reconnect the quick-connect

70

assembly

71

fully

Install

tighten

into

place

until

the injectors

seated.

the fuel

them

rail

and Chap-

84

into the

85

retaining bolts

ter's Specifications. Install the

screw

bracket for the fuel tube and tighten

it

securely.

72

Reconnect the

electrical

connectors

for

to the

body. Install the DIS ignition coil pack (see

fittings to

to the torque listed in this

25.67 When you're removing or installing the fuel rail, you can twist either fuel rail tube independently to help wiggle the injectors loose or seat

26

them

Fuel injector(s) (multi-point EFI)

-

check, removal and installation

ter 6).

intake

are

it,

perature sensor and the engine temperature

perature sensor and the engine temperature

injector

harness is clipped into the alternator pinch the tabs together and push it through the hole

fuel injector

to release

pressure regulator.

nator bracket to the the intake manifold.

62

the

4-35

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

the fuel

(see Section

fuel line

9).

the

(see Section

air

and 26.6

Warning: Gasoline

is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water

heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type

8).

Install

illustrations 26.3a, 26.3b, 26.4a,

present.

Reattach the accelerator cable (see

Section

86 87

rail

Refer to

26.4b, 26.4c, 26.5

fire

extinguisher on hand.

cleaner and hose assembly

7).

Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Check 1

With the engine running or cranking,

ten to the

sound from each

injector with

lis-

an

4-36

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

The

26.4a

fuel injector

has two different

size O-rings

Pry the injector lock rings off with a screwdriver

26.3b

26.4b Insert a small screwdriver under the O-ring and pry if off - be careful not to damage the injector tip

26.4c

26.3a

automotive stethoscope and verify the injecall clicking the same. If you don't have a stethoscope, place the tip of a screwdriver against the injectors and press your ear against the handle of the screwdriver. Also feel the operation of each injector with your finger. It should sound/feel smooth and uniform and its sound/feel should rise and fall with engine RPM. If an injector isn't operating, or sounds/feels erratic, check the injector connector and the wire harness connector. If the connectors are snug, check for voltage to the injector using a special injector harness test light (available at most auto parts stores). If there's voltage to the injector but it isn't operating, or it sounds/feels erratic, replace

tors are

Pull the injector straight out of the fuel rail receiver cup

Push the new O-ring over the tip and into the groove

A drop

of clean engine oil will allow the injector to seat easily

26.5

of the injector

Replace them with new ones

if

necessary

(see illustrations).

Installation 5

Prior to installation, lubricate the O-rings

with a light film of clean engine

oil

(see

illus-

tration).

6

Push the top

of the injector straight into

receiver cup, taking care not to

the fuel

rail

damage

the O-ring (see illustration).

7

Slide the

open end

of the injector clip

into the top slot of the injector,

receiver

the

cup ridge and

onto the

into the side slots of

clip.

(see Section 25).

8

Install

27

Fuel pressure regulator (multipoint EFI) - removal and

the fuel

rail

the injector.

Removal Remove

assembly (see Section 25) and place the fuel rail assembly on a clean work surface so the fuel injectors are 2

the fuel

rail

accessible.

3

Remove

fuel

rail

and

the injector lock ring from the injector

by prying

it

off with a

small screwdriver. Pull the injector straight out of the receiver

4

cup (see

illustrations).

Inspect the injector O-rings for

damage.

installation

26.6

Push the

injector straight into the

receiver

cup

heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse

present.

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water

it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

1

Relieve the system fuel pressure (see

Section

2).

Chapter 4

4-37

and exhaust systems

Fuel

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR

ATTACHING NUTS

(2)

FUEL INJECTORS

"

WIRING HARNESS"

FUEL TUBE CLIP FUEL RETURN TUBE

VACUUM HOSE

Fuel pressure regulator assembly (2.5L turbo engine)

27.3

27.10

Fuel pressure regulator assembly (3.0L engine)

FUEL PRESSURE V

REGULATOR

J

PLASTIC SPACERS

27.13

Fuel pressure regulator assembly (3.3L

Disconnect the cable from the negative

2

battery terminal.

fuel

4

illustration

27.3

10

pressure regulator (see illustration). Loosen the fuel return hose clamp at the

pressure regulator tube and remove the hose.

fuel

5

Using

wrenches

-

two flare nut or open end one on the regulator and the

other on the fuel return tube nut

tube

nut. Failure to

-

loosen the

use a backup wrench

Remove

the fuel

Remove

pressure regulator

remove the regulator from

rail.

Inspect the O-ring for damage. damaged, replace it. 7

If

it's

Installation is the reverse of removal. Be 8 sure to lube the O-ring with clean engine oil. And be sure to use a backup wrench when

tightening the fuel return tube

fitting.

the fuel pressure regulator fas-

teners (see illustration) and remove the reg-

fuel

rail

ring

is

18

(see illustration 27.16).

damaged, replace

Installation

is

If

either

O-

it.

the reverse of removal.

Make

sure the regulator has two plastic spacers and the fuel rail has two O-rings installed in

the cavity.

ulator.

11

Inspect the regulator O-ring.

aged, replace it. 12 Installation

If

it's

dam-

28 is

oil.

and 3.8L engines

Refer to

illustrations 27.

13 and 27. 16

13 Detach the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator (see illustration). 1 Remove the regulator retainer screw. 15 Remove the fuel pressure regulator retainer.

16

Remove

the fuel pressure regulator (see

illustration).

17

Inspect the two regulator O-rings

in

the

Fuel pressure point EFI)

the reverse of removal (see

-

dampener

(multi-

removal and

installation

Section 25, Steps 41 through 54). Be sure to lube the regulator O-ring with clean engine

3.3L

the fuel

attaching nuts and

10

will

cause damage. 6

illustration 27.

Refer to Section 25 and perform Steps 21 through 32.

9

Disconnect the vacuum hose from the

3

Removing the fuel pressure regulator (3.3L and 3.8L engines)

3.0L engine Refer to

2.5L turbo engine Refer to

27.16

and 3.8L engines)

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type

fire

extinguisher on hand.

4-38

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

swing it out of the way to gain access to the pressure dampener (see Chapter 5). 7 Disconnect the fuel hose quick-connect fitting from the fuel return tube (see Secfuel

tion 9).

8

Unplug the

electrical

connector from the

coolant temperature sensor (see Chapter

6).

Remove

the screw from the fuel retainer bracket (see illustration).

9

rail

Using

return tube nut (see illustration).

FUEL PRESSURE

.COPPER WASHER

DAMPENER

1

Remove

12

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Be

sure to tighten the fuel return tube nut

dampener assembly

(2.5L turbo engine)

29

Turbocharger

-

general

information Relieve system fuel pressure (see Sec-

1

The turbocharger increases power by

tion 2).

Detach the cable from the negative bat-

2

2.5L turbo engine Refer to

illustration

28.4

Disconnect the PCV system hose from the intake manifold and valve cover (see Chapter 6). 4 Place a show towel under the fuel pressure dampener to absorb fuel spillage. Using two flare nut or open end wrenches - one on the flats of the fuel rail and the other on the fuel pressure dampener - remove the fuel pressure dampener and copper sealing washer (see illustration). Don't try to remove 3

the

dampener without a backup wrench damage the fuel rail.

or

you'll

5

using an exhaust gas-driven turbine to pressurize the fuel/air mixture before

tery terminal.

is the reverse of removal. Be new copper sealing washer and dampener securely.

it

enters the

combustion chambers. The amount of boost (intake manifold pressure) is controlled by the wastegate (exhaust bypass valve). The wastegate is operated by a spring-loaded actuator assembly which controls the maximum boost level by allowing some of the exhaust gas to bypass the turbine. The wastegate is controlled by the SMEC or

SBEC. The computerized

fuel

injection

and

equipped with self diagnosis capabilities that can access certain turbocharging system components. Refer to Chapter 6 for information pertaining to trouble codes and diagnosis. emission control system

is

Installation

sure to use a tighten the

3.3L

and 3.8L engines

Refer to

6

illustrations

Remove

28.9 and 28. 10

the DIS

coil

pack fasteners and

30

Turbocharger

-

Due to the special techniques and equipment required, checking and diagnosis of suspected problems should be left to a dealer service department. The home mechanic can, however, check the connections and linkages for security, damage and

2

Because each turbocharger has its own sound, a change in the noise level can be a sign of potential problems. 4 A high-pitched or whistling sound is a 3

distinctive

check

1 While it is a relatively simple device, the turbocharger is also a precision component which can be severely damaged by an inter-

of an inlet air or exhaust gas leak. an unusual sound comes from the vicinity of the turbine, the turbocharger can be removed and the turbine wheel inspected. Caution: All checks must be made with the engine off and cool to the touch and the turbocharger stopped or personal injury could result. Operating the engine without all the turbocharger ducts and filters installed is also

5

If

dangerous and can result turbine wheel blades.

for fuel rail retainer bracket and location of coolant temperature sensor (3.3L and 3.8L engines)

28.10

Fuel pressure

damage

to the

make sure

it spins freely. If it doesn't, it's possible the cooling oil has sludged or cooked from overheating. Push in on the turbine wheel and check for binding. The turbine should rotate freely with no binding or rubbing on the housing. If it does the turbine bearing is worn out. 7 Check the exhaust manifold for cracks and loose connections. 8 Because the turbine wheel rotates at speeds up to 140,000 rpm, severe damage can result from the interruption of coolant or contamination of the oil supply to the turbine bearings. Check for leaks in the coolant and oil inlet lines and obstructions in the oil drain back line, as this can cause severe oil loss

through the turbocharger seals. Burned oil on the turbine housing is a sign of this. Caution: Whenever a major engine bearing such as a main, connecting rod or camshaft bearing is replaced, the turbocharger should be flushed with clean

oil.

FUEL PRESSURE

REGULATOR

BRACKET SCREW

Screw

in

With the engine turned off, reach inside 6 the housing and turn the turbine wheel to

FUEL RAIL RETAINER

28.9

dam-

or coolant supply or loose or

symptom

the fuel pressure dampener.

securely.

Fuel pressure

28.4

oil

aged ducts.

other obvious problems.

two flare nut or open end wrenches - one on the return tube nut and the other on the fuel rail hex - loosen the 10

rupted

dampener assembly

(3.3L

and 3.8L engines)

Chapter 4

4-39

Fuel and exhaust systems INTAKE

THROTTLE

MANIFOLD

BODY

31 .2

Details of the air cleaner

and related

ducting (2.5L turbo engine]

31

Turbocharger

-

removal and

Removal 1

installation

Disconnect the cable from the negative

terminal of the battery.

2

Refer

to illustrations

31.2 and 31.4

Note: The turbocharger is removed from below the vehicle. It is not necessary to remove the cylinder head from the engine to gain access to the turbocharger and related components.

Drain the cooling system (see Chapter

and remove the

air

1

cleaner housing and

ducts (see illustration).

Working above the engine Remove the through bolt from the front engine mount (see Chapter 2, Part A) and 3

move the top of the engine forward (away from the firewall). 4 Remove the coolant line from the water box and the turbocharger housing (see illustration). Detach the oil feed line from the tur5 bocharger housing. 6 Remove the wastegate rod-to-gate retaining clip.

7

Remove

the three (two upper and one

FUEL RAIL (ASSEMBLY)

INTAKE

MANIFOLD

CUTAWAY WATER BOX

EXHAUST MANIFOLD

OIL

SENDING UNIT "HEX"

Exploded view of the turbocharger and intake and exhaust manifolds

31 .4

REFERENCE

TURBOCHARGER CENTER BEARING HOUSING

4-40

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

lower) driver's side nuts retaining the tur-

bocharger to the exhaust manifold. Disconnect the oxygen sensor wire (see 8 Chapter 6) and any vacuum lines that might be in the way.

CROSSMEMBER

U-NUT

(2)

Working below the engine Loosen the right front wheel lug nuts and hub nut (see Chap-ter 8), raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on 9

jackstands.

Remove the right front wheel. Remove the right front driveaxle

1

11

(see

Chapter 8). 12 Remove the bracket support from the lower portion of the turbocharger (see illus-

RIGHT SIDE RAIL

tration 31.4). TAIL PIPE

13 Separate the oil drain-back tube fitting from the turbocharger housing and remove the fitting and the hose. 14 Remove the last remaining tur-

2.5

CONVERTER AND 3.0L ENGINES

16 Remove the lower coolant line and turbocharger inlet fitting. 17 Lift the turbocharger off its mounting studs and lower the assembly down and out of the vehicle.

bocharger return coolant install

31

the

lines.

member

Carefully clean the mating surfaces of

the turbocharger and exhaust manifold.

Place the turbocharger

in

If the exhaust system components are extremely corroded or rusted together, weld-

the Chapter

2A

Specifica-

32 Check the coolant level and add some, if necessary (see Chap-ter 1). 33 Change the engine oil (see Chapter 1).

position on

the manifold studs.

20 Apply anti-seize compound to the studs and install the nuts. Tighten the nuts to the torque 21

listed in this

Apply thread sealant

coolant

line fitting

and

into the

install

the

lower

Install

the lower coolant

Install

the

along with a housing.

24

new

-

Refer to

illustration 32.

Warning: Inspection and repair of exhaust system components should be done only

line.

drain-back tube and

oil

Exhaust system servicing general information

inlet

fitting into

the turbocharger housing.

22 23

32

Chapter's Specifications.

fitting

gasket, to the turbocharger

with the engine and exhaust components completely cool. Also, when working under the vehicle, make sure it's securely supported

the turbocharger-to-block support bracket and bolts and make them finger

on jackstands.

prevent binding. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-

consists of the exhaust manifold(s), the cat-

Install

1

tight to

The exhaust system (see

alytic converter,

tions.

25

Reposition the exhaust pipe and tighten

the bolts securely.

26

Install

the driveaxle (see Chapter

8)

and

the right front wheel.

27 Reconnect the oxygen sensor electrical connector and any vacuum lines that were disconnected.

28

Install

the wastegate rod-to-gate retain-

ing clip.

29

Attach the oil feed line to the turbocharger bearing housing. Tighten the fitting

securely.

30

Apply sealant to the water box and

tur-

illustration)

new

parts.

3

ing equipment will probably be required to remove them. The convenient way to accomplish this is to have a muffler repair shop remove the corroded sections with a cutting torch. If, however, you want to save money by doing it yourself (and you don't have a

welding outfit with a cutting torch), simply cut off the old components with a hacksaw. If

you have compressed air, special pneumatic cutting chisels can also be used. If you do decide to tackle the job at home, be sure to wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from metal chips and work gloves to protect your hands. 4 Here are some simple guidelines to follow when repairing the exhaust system: a)

b)

Work from the back to the front when removing exhaust system components. Apply penetrating oil to the component fasteners

to

make them

easier

to

remove.

the muffler, the tailpipe and

connecting pipes, brackets, hangers and clamps. The exhaust system is attached to the body with mounting brackets and rubber hangers. If any of the parts are improperly installed, excessive noise and vibration will be transmitted to the body. 2 Conduct regular inspections of the exhaust system to keep it safe and quiet. Look for any damaged or bent parts, open seams, holes, loose connections, excessive corrosion or other defects which could allow exhaust fumes to enter the vehicle. Deteriorated exhaust system components shouldn't all

typical

within the cross-

bracket and tighten the bolts to the in

ONLY)

be repaired; they should be replaced with

fittings

tions.

Installation

19

end

-

0L

and

line

mount

(3

Exhaust system details

Tighten them securely.

Align the engine

torque listed

18

N MUFFLER

32.1

bocharger-to-exhaust manifold nut. 15 Disconnect the exhaust pipe joint from the turbocharger housing.

RESONATOR

c)

Use new gaskets, hangers and clamps when installing exhaust system compo-

d)

Apply anti-seize

nents.

threads of

all

compound

to

the

exhaust system fasteners

during reassembly. e)

Be sure

to allow sufficient

clearance

between newly installed parts and all points on the underbody to avoid overheating the floor pan and possibly damaging the interior carpet and insulation. Pay particularly close attention to the catalytic converter and heat shields.

5-1

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems Contents Section Alternator brushes Alternator

-

15 14

replacement removal and installation -

2 emergency jump starting 4 Battery cables - check and replacement See Chapter 1 Battery check, maintenance and charging 3 Battery - removal and installation 13 Charging system - check 12 Charging system - general information and precautions Distributor - removal and installation 8 Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement See Chapter 1 Battery

-

General information

Governor (centrifugal advance) unit (2.6L engine) check and replacement Ignition coil - check and replacement

Section

system - check Ignition system - general information Ignition timing check and adjustment Pick-up assembly - replacement Spark plug check and replacement Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement Starter motor - in-vehicle check Starter motor assembly - removal and installation

7

Voltage regulator

16

-

description

1

.34 to 1.55

1

5 to 19

1

1.6 to 15.8

ohms

k-ohms

3.3L Primary

52 to 0.63

ohms k-ohms

others

Epoxy 97 to 1.18 ohms to 15.3 k-ohms

Primary

Secondary

1 1

(1990 only) Primary

1

.34 to 1.55

1

5 to 19 k-ohms

Oil-filled

Secondary 1994 and later models

ohms

3.3Land3.8L 45 to 0.65 ohms

Primary

Secondary Echlin or Essex 1984 through 1987 Primary

Secondary 1988 through 1990

7 to 15.8

1

K-ohms

41 to 1.62

ohms

9 to 12.2 k-ohms

34 to 1.55 ohms

Primary

1

Secondary

9 to 12.2

k-ohms

Marshall (1990 3.3L)

Primary

Secondary

53 to 0.65 ohms 7 to 9

k-ohms

Mitsubishi (1984 through 1987)

Primary

Secondary

1

18 19

9

Starting

1988 and 1989

All

See Chapter

20

-

Diamond

Secondary

1

10 See Chapter 1

Starter motor/solenoid/gear reduction

Ignition coil resistance (by coil manufacturer)

Primary

5

See Chapter

assembly - replacement system - general information and precautions Vacuum advance unit (2.6L engine) - check and replacement

1

Specifications

Secondary 1990 through 1993

6

Ignition

7 to 0.85

9 to

1 1

ohms

k-ohms

17 1

5-2

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

Ignition coil resistance (by coil manufacturer) Prestolite

1984 through 1987 Primary

1.60 to 1.79

Secondary 1988 through 1990

9.4 to 11.7

Primary

1.34 to 1.55

Secondary Toyodenso

9.4 to 11.7

ohms

k-ohms

ohms

k-ohms

Four-cylinder

Primary

0.95 to 1.20

Secondary

11.3 13.3

ohms

k-ohms

3.3L

1990 through 1993 Primary

0.51 to 0.61

Secondary

11.5 to 13.5

ohms K-ohms

Primary

0.45 to 0.65

ohms

Secondary

7 to 15.8 K-ohms

3.3Land3.8L 1994 and

later

General information

3

Battery

-

removal and installation

Battery cables

check and

replacement The engine

electrical

systems include

all

charging and starting components. Because of their engine-related functions, these components are discussed separately from chassis electrical devices such as the ignition,

lights,

the instruments, etc. (which are

in-

Always observe the following precautions when working on the cluded

in

electrical a)

Chapter

12).

systems:

Be extremely

careful

when

servicing

engine electrical components. They are easily damaged if checked, connected or handled improperly. b) Never leave the ignition switch on for long periods of time with the engine off. c) Don't disconnect the battery cables while the engine is running. d) Maintain correct polarity when connecting a battery cable from another vehicle

Refer to

illustration 3.2

Caution: Always disconnect the nega-

1

tive

cable

first

and hook

it

up

last or the bat-

tery may be shorted by the tool being used to loosen the cable clamps. Disconnect both cables from the battery terminals.

Remove

2

the battery hold-down clamp

(see illustration). Lift out the battery. 3

Be

careful

-

it's

heavy.

4

While the battery

rier (tray) for

5

If

is

out, inspect the car-

corrosion (see Chapter

make

sure you purchase one that's identical, with the same dimensions, amperage rating, cold cranking rating, etc.

6

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

during jump starting. e)

Always disconnect the negative cable first and hook it up last or the battery may be shorted by the tool being used

lation at the

replaced.

cable terminal connection is a is corroded and should be

Check the terminals

for distortion,

missing mounting bolts and corrosion.

When removing the cables, always disconnect the negative cable first and hook it up last or the battery may be shorted by the tool used to loosen the cable clamps. Even if only the positive cable is being replaced, be sure to disconnect the negative cable from the battery first (see Chapter 1 for further 3

information regarding battery cable removal).

4 tery,

loosen the cable clamps. It's also a good idea to review the safety-related information regarding the engine electrical systems located in the Safety First section near the front of this manual before beginning any operation included to

in this

Periodically inspect the entire length of

sign that the cable

1).

you're replacing the battery,

1

each battery cable for damage, cracked or burned insulation and corrosion. Poor battery cable connections can cause starting problems and decreased engine performance. Check the cable-to-terminal connec2 tions at the ends of the cables for cracks, loose wire strands and corrosion. The presence of white, fluffy deposits under the insu-

Disconnect the old cables from the batthen trace each of them to their opposite

ends and detach them from the starter solenoid and ground terminals. Note the routing of each cable to ensure correct installation.

5

If

you're replacing either or both of the them with you when buying

old cables, take

Chapter.

new cables. It's very important to replace the cables with identical parts. Cables have charBattery

acteristics that

emergency jump

make them easy

to identify:

Positive cables are usually red, larger

starting

in

cross-section and have a larger diameter battery post clamp: ground cables are usually

Refer to the Booster battery (jump) starting

manual.

procedure

at the front of this

To remove the battery, unscrew the hold-down bolt (arrow) and remove the hold-down clamp

3.2

black, smaller slightly smaller

tive post.

cross-section and have a diameter clamp for the negain

Chapter 5

5-3

Engine electrical systems IGNITION COIL

CAPACITOR

GROUND THIS CLIP

ALLIGATOR CLIP CHECK HERE FOR SPARK

When checking the SCC (2.2L engine), a special test tool 6.2a can be fabricated from a 0.33 mfd capacitor and some wire and

The spark

6.2b

must be and well-defined

at the coil wire

alligator clips

Clean the threads of the solenoid or ground connection with a wire brush to remove rust and corrosion. Apply a light coat

6

of battery terminal corrosion

Warning: The secondary

6

Ignition

system

-

check

3

If

there

4

If

there

is is

bright blue

a spark, proceed to Step

no spark, turn

8.

the ignition

off

switch, disconnect the ten wire harness con-

7

extreme care when performing the following checks so you don 't get shocked.

nector at the SCC (see illustration) and repeat the test. If a spark is now produced, the computer output is shorted and the spark control computer must be replaced with a

nut/bolt securely.

2.2L engine

5

petroleum

jelly,

inhibitor, or

to the threads to prevent

future corrosion.

Attach the cable to the solenoid or ground connection and tighten the mounting

Before connecting a new cable to the battery, make sure it reaches the battery post without having to be stretched. Connect the positive cable first, fol9 lowed by the negative cable. 8

5

Ignition

system

ignition

is

system

volt-

volts).

Use

very high (over 30,000

new Refer to illustrations 6.2a, 6.2b,

6.4, 6.8, 6.11,

6.13, 6.14, 6.16, 6.17, 6.18, 6.19, 6.21

and

Prior to testing the spark control

1

-

general

com-

puter (SCC), check the coil and battery to make sure they are in good operating condi-

cracked and worn insulation and connectors for security. Check the vacuum hose for kinks, damage and secure con-

for shorts,

system includes the coil,

ignition

the primary (low

nection.

Connect the special

2

test tool (see illus-

(high voltage) wiring

tration) to the negative terminal of the coil

(except 3.3L and 3.8L models) and the spark plugs. Models with the 3.3L and 3.8L V6 engine don't have a distrib-

and ground the other end. Pull the coil wire from the distributor and place it 1/4-inch from a good ground (see illustration). With the ignition switch on, momentarily touch the

and secondary

circuits, the distributor

utor

-

they're equipped with a Direct Ignition

System

DIS

a distributorless system. Its three main components are the coil pack, the crankshaft timing sensor and the camshaft reference sensor. The crankshaft and camshaft sensors are both (DIS) instead.

Hall Effect timing

If

there

was no

spark, check the voltage

at the coil positive terminal to

within If

one

make

devices

is

(for

remaining test lead to the negative

A

nal.

spark should jump from the

sure

it

is

volt of battery voltage.

there

was no voltage

reading, check

the wiring between the battery and the positive terminal of the coil.

7

If

there

was

check the voltage nal.

a proper voltage reading, at the coil negative termi-

This reading should also be within one

volt of the battery voltage.

If

there

age or there

is

voltage but no spark

duced when performing the test replace the coil with a new one.

no

volt-

was

pro-

is

all

switch, the battery, the voltage)

one.

6

6.22

tion. Inspect the electrical harness and wires

information The

age

ignition

in

Step

2,

If there is a voltage reading but the 8 engine will not start, use a thin piece of cardboard to hold the carburetor switch open

(see illustration) and measure the voltage at the switch.

The reading should be

at least five

volts. coil termi-

coil

wire to

ground.

more informaSPARK CONTROL COMPUTER

on the crankshaft and camshaft sensors, refer to Chapter 6). On 1984 through 1987 models, the ignition system is controlled by the Spark Control Computer (SCC). On 1988 and 1989 models, it's controlled by a computer known as the Single Module Engine Controller (SMEC). The

10

SMEC

9

tion

monitors coolant temperature, engine rpm and available intake manifold vacuum to ensure a perfectly timed spark under all driving conditions. Later versions of the ignition computer are referred to by Chrysler as the Single-Board Engine Controller (SBEC), but they're functionally similar to the

more information regarding the SBEC, refer to Chapter 6.

SMEC.

SMEC

8

7 6

r

^«^v^ o foi / o o 3"^. / oo o o 10-WAY DUAL o o CONNECTOR 1

2

4

5

Use a thin piece of cardboard to hold the carburetor switch open and measure the voltage at the switch wire terminal (2.2L engine)

6.8

For

or the

SWITCH WIRE

Disconnecting the ten-wire harness connector from the SCC (2.2L engine)

6.4

5-4

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

VOLTMETER

OHMMETER

CARBURETOR

GROUND

6.1

Checking the voltage

1

at the ten-wire

connector cavity

SWITCH

6.13

Checking

(2.2L engine)

for continuity

between cavity 7 and the

carburetor switch (2.2L engine)

OHMMETER

DISTRIBUTOR WIRING HARNESS CONNECTOR

GROUND

Checking

6.14

for continuity

ground

9

If

Step 10

the voltage reading

is

between

cavity 10

correct,

go on to

16. If

there

is

no voltage, turn

switch and unplug the

SCC

off

the ignition

ten wire connec-

tor.

Turn the switch on and check the voltage at cavity 2 of the connector (see illustration). It should be within one volt of battery 11

voltage.

12

If

is no voltage reading, check for between cavity 2 and the battery.

there

continuity

and a good

6.16

and 3

(2.2L engine)

The jumper wire must be connected between in

cavities 2 the distributor wiring harness connector (2.2L engine)

Repair the circuit and repeat the test in Step 1 1 13 If there is voltage present, turn off the ignition switch and check for continuity

between cavity 7 and the carburetor switch If no continuity is present, check for an open wire between cavity 7 and the carburetor switch and repair the circuit. 14 If there is continuity present, check for continuity between cavity 10 and a good ground (see illustration). If there is continuity, it will be necessary to replace the computer with a new one as power is going into it but not out. Repeat the test in Step 8. 15 If continuity is not present, check for an open wire. If the wiring is alright and the engine will 16 (see illustration).

not start, plug the ten wire connector into the

computer and unplug the distributor wire harness connector. Connect a jumper wire between cavities 2 and 3 of the connector

HARNESS CONNECTOR

/HAU

(see illustration). Hold the

good ground,

on and

wire. If sparks are produced but the engine does not start, replace the distributor pick-up assembly (also called a Hall effect switch) (see Section 10), making sure the shutter blades are grounded (see illustra-

17

still

tion).

a

With the ignition switched

good ground on the

off,

check

for

distributor shaft with

an ohmmeter. It may be necessary to seat the rotor securely on the shaft to obtain a good ground. Connect one lead of the ohmmeter to the shutter blade and the other to a good ground and make sure there is continuity. If there is none, push the rotor down on the shaft until continuity

is

indicated.

Repeat the test in Step 1 6 and if there is no spark present, measure the voltage at 1

VOLTMETER 6.18 Checking for voltage between the

EFFECT

distributor harness connector cavity 1 and a good ground (2.2L engine)

UNIT

GROUND Rotor shutter blade and ground strap locations(2.2L engine)

wire near a

break the circuit at cavity 2 or 3 several times. A bright blue spark should occur at the coil

SWITCH

6.17

coil

turn the ignition switch

Chapter 5

5-5

Engine electrical systems

DISTRIBUTOR HARNESS

DISTRIBUTOR HARNESS

CONNECTOR

CONNECTOR

10

WAY CONNECTOR'

6.21 Checking for continuity between the distributor harness connector cavity 1 and the SCC connector cavity 3 (2.2L engine)

Checking for continuity between the distributor and the SCC connector cavities (2.2L engine)

6.19

WAY CONNECTOR'

10

IGNITION COIL

CHECK HERE FOR SPARK

Checking for voltage between SCC connector cavities 10 and 2 (2.2L engine)

6.22

cavity

1

connector (see should be within one volt of

of the distributor

illustration).

It

battery voltage.

19

If

tion,

unplug the ten wire connector from the

the voltage

is

correct, turn off the igni-

computer and check

between harness and cavity

for continuity

cavity 2 of the distributor 9 of the computer connector. Follow this by checking between cavity 3 of the distributor harness and cavity 5 of the computer connector (see illustration). If there is no continuity, find If

there

with a

is

and

repair the fault

in

the harness.

continuity, replace the

new one as power

is

computer

going into

it

but

not coming out.

Repeat the test in Step 1 6. 21 If no voltage is present when making the check in Step 18, turn off the ignition, unplug the computer ten wire connector and check for continuity between cavity 1 of the distributor harness connector and cavity 3 of the computer connector (see illustration). If there is no continuity, repair the wire and repeat the test in Step 16. 22 If there is continuity, turn on the ignition switch and check for voltage between cavities 2 and 10 of the computer connector (see illustration). If there is voltage, the computer is faulty and must be replaced with a new one. Repeat the test in Step 16. If there is no voltage, check and repair the ground wire, as the computer is not grounded. Repeat the Step 16 test. 20

6.28

Checking the

2.6L engine 23

Remove

voltage

the high voltage

coil

wire from

the distributor cap and hold the end about 1/4-inch from a

good engine ground. Operate

sparks at the coil wire. 24 If sparks occur, and they are bright blue and well defined, continue to operate the

6.35

moving the

coil

wire

away

present, check the associated

and 3.0L engines

2.5L, turbo

the starter and look for a series of bright blue

from the ground. As this is done, look for arcing and sparking at the coil tower. If it occurs,

is

wires and connections.

Refer to

starter while slowly

spark (2.5L engine)

coil for

illustrations 6.28, 6.33a,

Remove

28

6.33b and

the coil secondary cable from

the distributor cap. Hold the end of the cable

about 1/4-inch from a good engine ground and crank the engine. Check for a consistent spark as the engine is cranked (see illustra-

replace the coil with a new one. If arcing does not occur at the coil tower, the ignition sys-

tion).

tem

spark, connect a voltmeter to the coil positive

producing the necessary high secondary voltage. However, make sure the voltage is getting to the spark plugs by checking the rotor, distributor cap, spark plug wires and spark plugs as described in Chapter 1. If the results are positive, the ignition system is is

not the reason the engine

will

not

start.

29

onds.

If

It it

should be the

is

same as

three volts or less, the

no voltage was present, check the coil and wires for an open circuit. 26 Refer to Step 2 and perform the check igniter is defective.

If

described there. 27 If no spark was produced, check for voltage at the positive coil terminal with the ignition switch on. Battery voltage should be indicated. If it is, the coil is defective. If no

is

no

near zero during this codes in Chapter 6. at near battery voltage

is

If the voltage is (approximately 12.4 volts) at the start of the

test but

31

battery voltage.

the voltage

If

30

the ignition coil negative terminal with the ignition switch on.

not constant or there

test refer to the Trouble

onds

If

is

terminal and crank the engine for five sec-

no sparks occurred, or if they were weak or intermittent, measure the voltage at 25

the spark

If

in

drops

to zero after

one

to

two seccodes

of cranking, refer to the Trouble

Chapter If

6.

the voltage remains at near battery

voltage for the five seconds, turn off the igni-

remove the 1 4-way (or 60-way on models) connector from the SMEC/SBEC and check for any spread ter-

tion key, later

minals.

32 Remove the coil positive terminal lead and connect a jumper wire between the battery positive terminal and the coil positive terminal.

33

On SMEC-equipped engines

(1987

5-6

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems OJlfL

TERMINAL SIDE

TERMINAL SIDE

SHOWN Terminal guide for

6.33b 6.33a

when jumpering

Terminal guide for SMEC 1 4-way electrical connector (1987 through 1989 2.5L engine)

any other terminals or you may damage the (1990 and later 2.5L engine)

6.35

CONNECT THISCLIP TO COIL

CAPACITOR

ALLIGATOR

GROUND

CLIP

MOMENTARILY

GROUND CLIP

You'll

-

SBEC

need to

fabricate a special

NEGATIVE THIS CLIP

SBEC 60-way electrical connector

to a terminal, be extremely careful not to touch

THIS

jumper wire to ground the negative terminal of the coil on a 2.5L engine

TO COIL^

NEGATIVE ALLIGATOR CLIP

through 1989 models), momentarily ground terminal No. 12 of the 1 4-way connector (see illustration) with a jumper wire. On SBECequipped engines (1990 and later models), ground terminal No. 19 of the 60-way connector (see illustration). 34 If a spark is generated, replace the

SMEC/SBEC. 35 cial

If no spark is generated, connect a spejumper wire (see illustration) to ground

negative terminal. a spark is now produced, check the wiring harness for an open condition. 37 If no spark is produced, replace the coil. the

36

coil If

41

If

sparks occur, sufficient voltage

and coils [3.3L models] or wires, distributor cap and rotor [all others] are OK). However, the plugs themselves may be fouled, so remove them and check them as described in Chapter 1 42 If no sparks, or intermittent sparks occur on a DIS-type system, proceed to Section 7 and check the coil pack. On a conventional ignition system, if no sparks or intermittent sparks occur, remove the distributor cap and check the cap and rotor as described in Chapter

Quick test for any engine Refer

to illustration

6.39

38 If the engine turns over but won't start, disconnect the spark plug wire from any spark plug and attach it to a calibrated ignition tester (available at most auto parts stores).

Connect the clip on the tester to a bolt or metal bracket on the engine (see illustra39

tion).

If

you're unable to obtain a calibrated

ignition tester,

remove the wire from one

the spark plugs and, using an insulated

of

tool,

hold the end of the wire about 1/4-inch from

a

good ground. Caution:

moved more

If

the spark plug

than 1/4-inch

away from

is

the

1.

If

If

tight.

make any

components

that

could

injure you.

coil to

Check

make

coil

If

a

then repeat the

simply disconnect a spark plug wire, attach the wire to the tester and clip the tester to a good ground - if there is enough power to fire the plug, sparks will be clearly visible between the electrode tip and the tester body as the engine is

turned over

7

Ignition coil

-

check and

replacement

Conventional Refer to 7.5a 1

coil

illustrations 7.2a, 7.2b, 7.4a, 7.4b,

and 7.5b Detach the cable from the negative bat-

tery terminal.

Mark the wires and terminals with pieces of numbered tape, then remove the primary wires and the high-tension lead from the coil (see illustrations). Disconnect the

(see Section

in 7).

the coil-to-cap resistance with

7000 ohms per

assembly (see Section may be defective.

wire doesn't

the test results, check If

OK, the pick-up or ignition module

it's

10)

mounting bracket, remove the coil/brackassembly, clean the outer case and check it for cracks and other damage. Clean the coil primary terminals and 3 check the coil tower terminal for corrosion. Clean it with a wire brush if any corrosion is coil

et

known good

difference

sure they're

for voltage to the coil.

Make any necessary repairs, check again. 45 If there's still no spark, wire may be bad (check the an ohmmeter - it should be

the

To use a calibrated ignition tester most auto parts stores),

(available at

2

nections at the clean and

6.39

present, dry out the

no sparks occur, check the wire con-

blue, well-defined sparks occur.

using a calibrated tester, have an assistant crank the engine for you. Warning: Keep clear of drivebelts and other moving engine

is

defective.

44

foot or less).

you're not

moisture

cap and rotor, then reinstall the cap. 43 If there's still no spark, detach the coil secondary wire from the distributor cap and hook it up to the tester (reattach the plug wire to the spark plug), then repeat the spark check. Again, if you don't have a tester, hold the end of the wire about 1/4-inch from a good ground. If sparks occur now, the distributor cap, rotor or plug wire(s) may be

engine ground on a DIS-type coil (3.3L engines), it could damage the spark plug wire. 40 Crank the engine and watch the end of the tester or spark plug wire to see if bright If

is

reaching the plug to fire it (repeat the check at the remaining plug wires to verify the wires

found.

4

Check the

coil

primary resistance by ohmmeter to the pos-

attaching the leads of an itive

and negative terminals (see

Compare your readings

illustrations).

to the primary resis-

Chapter 5

7.2a To remove the earlier type coil from the right inner fenderwell, disconnect the primary wires and the high-tension cable (1), then remove the mounting bracket bolt - if the coil is bad, loosen the clamp pinch screw (2) and transfer the

clamp/mounting bracket to the new

5-7

Engine electrical systems

To remove the later type coil from the engine, disconnect the primary wire connector and the high-tension cable (arrow), then remove the mounting bolts (arrows)

7.2b

coil

To check the coil primary resistance on an earlier type coil, touch the leads of an ohmmeter to the positive and negative primary terminals (arrows) and compare your reading with the coil primary resistance listed in this Chapter's Specifications

To check the coil primary resistance on a later type coil, touch the leads of an ohmmeter to the positive and negative primary terminals (arrows) and compare your reading with the coil primary resistance listed in this Chapter's Specifications

To check the coil secondary resistance on an earlier type touch one lead of the ohmmeter to one of the primary terminals and the other lead to the high-tension terminal (arrows), then compare your reading to the coil secondary resistance listed

7.5b

7.4a

7.5a

coil,

in this

tance

listed in this

Chapter's Specifications

Chapter's Specifications.

secondary resistance

Check the coil secondary resistance by hooking one of the ohmmeter leads to one of

Specifications.

the primary terminals and the other ohmmeter lead to the large center terminal (see

specified, the coil

5

illustrations).

Compare your readings

to the

6

If

7.4b

To check the coil secondary resistance on a later type coil, touch one lead of the ohmmeter to one of the primary terminals and the other lead to the high-tension terminal (arrows), then compare your reading to the coil secondary resistance listed in this Chapter's Specifications

listed in this

Chapter's

coil

terminals and wire leads must be kept

clean and dry.

the measured resistances are not as

probably defective and should be replaced with a new one. 7 For proper ignition system operation, all is

8

Install

the coil

in

the vehicle and hook up

the wires.

9

Attach the cable to the negative battery

terminal.

5

5-8

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

Direct Ignition System (DIS)

pack

coil

and 3.8L

(3.3L

models) Refer to

and

7.

illustrations 7.11, 7.12, 7.13a,

7.13b

14

Note: The DIS coil pack doesn't have to be removed from the engine for testing - we've done so only for the sake of clarity. 10 Clearly label the six spark plug cables, then detach them from the coil pack. Measure the resistance of each cable. It should be 3 to 12 k-ohms per foot of cable. Replace any cable not within tolerance.

Remove

11

the four coil pack mounting

bolts (see illustration).

12

up the

Lift

electrical

pack and unplug the

coil

connector (see

illustration).

7.1 1 To detach the coil pack from an engine equipped with the Direct Ignition System (DIS), remove these four

Measure the resistance on the primary side of each coil with a digital ohmmeter (see illustrations) and compare your readings to 13

the primary resistance listed

in this

bolts (arrows)

The electrical connector for the DIS pack is easier to unplug if you remove the coil pack mounting bolts first and lift the pack up slightly

7.12 coil

Chapter's

Specifications for the brand of coil pack (Dia-

mond

or

Toyodenso) used on your engine.

Measure the secondary resistance

14

of

Terminal guide

7.13a

CYLINDERS

the coil between the paired high tension tow-

NUMBER

ers of each group of cylinders (see illustra-

3

&

and compare your readings to the secondary resistance listed in this Chapter's Specifications for the brand of coil pack used on your engine. If any coil in the coil pack fails either of 15 the above tests, replace the coil pack. 16 Installation is the reverse of removal.

tion)

for

Pnr

measuring the

primary resistance of the pack at the electrical connector (coil-packside of the connector

coil

shown)

-

check between

the B+ terminal and each CYLINDERS NUMBER 2 & 5 of the other terminals in the connector

CYLINDERS

NUMBER 8

Distributor

1

&

4

removal and

-

installation (2.6L engine) or the photo-optic sensing unit

Detach the primary lead from the coil. Unplug the electrical connector for the 3 Hall Effect pick-up (2.2L, 2.5L and turbo engines) (see illustration), the pick-up coil

(3.0L engine) (see illustration). Follow the wires as they exit the distributor to find the connector. 4 On 2.2L, 2.5L and turbo engines, re-

2

Removal Refer to

terminal of the battery.

illustrations 8.3a, 8.3b, 8.4, 8.7

and

8.8

Disconnect the cable from the negative

1

•

i

i

>*#'

V

«

solenoid

_

either the fuel flow, the

ignition timing, or both.

circuits.

for

VAPOR CANISTER

Besides these sensors, various switches and relays also provide information to the SMEC/SBEC. These include the neutral safety switch and air conditioning clutch switch (or cut-out relay) (all engines); the auto shutdown relay (2.5L engines); and the brake switch and speed control switch (3.0L, 3.3L and 3.8L engines). All inputs to the SMEC/SBEC are converted into digital signals which are "read" by the SMEC and con-

monitors

Vacuum hose routing 1988 2.5L California models

1.1 Og TO ATMOSPHERE

The

own

found in

the

SMEC input in

constantly

and output TOAtllOS«««f

a system, the

1.10h Vacuum hose routing for 1989 2.5L turbo Federal, California and Canadian models

SMEC's memory.

this information

and display

it

on the check engine light on the dash. The Sections in this Chapter include general descriptions, checking procedures within the scope of the home mechanic and component replacement procedures (when possible) for each of the systems listed

above. Before assuming an emissions control system is malfunctioning, check the fuel and ignition systems carefully. The diagnosis of

«*»

CANISTER

some emission cialized tools,

control devices requires spe-

equipment and

training.

If

checking and servicing become too difficult or if a procedure is beyond your ability, consult a dealer service department. Remember, the most frequent cause of emissions problems is simply a loose or broken vacuum

hose or

wire,

so always check the hose and

wiring connections

first

(see illustrations).

This doesn't mean, however, that emission control systems are particularly to maintain

and

You can

difficult

quickly

and

many checks and do most of maintenance at home with com-

easily perform

the regular

repair.

6-4

Chapter 6

'

TO

K»T1R

power!

ME «

l-CCONTHIX win.

Emissions control systems

ms

'

BOOSTER N TO >**rse ccwnioi WTTHOUT ABS

OPTIONAL VACUUM OPERATED ACCESSORIES

|ipi-»-hriwim|

1.1 Oi

Vacuum hose

(Federal,

routing for 1990 3.3L California models Canadian and 1991 through 1993 models similar)

.

1

0j

I

VEHICLE EMISSION

O LU

o£ o

or




to battery

*

/ 1 1

.8

*

The camshaft reference sensor

located in the top of the timing chain cover on 3.3L and 3.8L engines

(arrow)

is

Chapter 6

6-13

Emissions control systems

WIRING TERMINALS

PAPER SPACER'

3-WAY ELECTRICAL

CONNECTOR 11.11

The crankshaft reference sensor used on 3.3L and 3.8L engines

ELECTRICAL

CONNECTION 11.12 The detonation (knock) sensor used on turbo and 1991 and earlier 3.3L engines

COOLANT SENSOR

CHARGE SENSOR

1 1

Typical charge temperature sensor (3.0L engine) and coolant temperature sensor (all engines)

.9

illustration), which is mounted in the underside of the intake manifold, measures the

temperature of the incoming

air

and sends

SMEC/SBEC. This SMEC/SBEC to modify

this information to the

data

is

used by the

the ratio of fuel to

(all

engines) 10 The coolant temperature sensor

intake manifold (turbo) or

cylinder can be detected.

in

each

The sensor pro-

vides information used by the SMEC/SBEC to modify spark advance and eliminate deto-

1 1 .9),

SMEC/SBEC.

This data, along with the information from the charge temperature sensor, is used by the SMEC/SBEC to determine the correct air/fuel mixture and idle speed while the engine is warming up. The sensor is also used to turn on the radiator fan.

Crankshaft reference sensor (3.3L and 3.8L engines)

sent to the

SMEC/SBEC. These

electronic

pulses are converted to engine rpm information.

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) (all engines)

Refer to illustrations 11.14a, 11.14b, 11.14c, 11.146 and 11.14e

and

3.0L engines) (see

is

sensor

Distributor pick-up (1991 2.5L

which is threaded into the thermostat housing, monitors coolant temperature and sends this information to the

Refer to

mounted on the

block (3.3L engine) where detonation

nation.

air.

Coolant temperature sensor

illustration

It's

THREADS

13 On 1991 2.5L and 3.0L engines, engine speed input is supplied to the SMEC/SBEC by the distributor Hall effect pick-up (2.5L engines) or the optical system pick-up (3.0L engines). The distributor uses an internal shutter and Hall effect sensor (2.5L engines) or an internal metal disc and optical sensor (3.0L engines) to create a pulsing signal that

14 The MAP sensor (see illustrations) is located on the firewall. It monitors intake manifold vacuum through a vacuum line to the throttle body. The

sensor transmits this data, along with data on barometric pressure, in the form of a variable voltage output to the SMEC/SBEC. When combined with data from other sensors, this information helps the SMEC/SBEC determine the correct air-fuel

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE [PRESSURE (MAP)u

MAP

mixture

ratio.

A/C DAMPEN PRESSURE CYCLING SWITCH

illustration 11.11

The crank timing sensor (see illustration) is mounted on the transaxle bellhousing. This sensor sends information to the 11

SBEC

regarding engine crankshaft position. slots (sets of four per cylinder) on the torque converter driveplate.

The sensor "reads"

Detonation (knock) sensor (turbo earlier 3.3L engines)

and 1991 and Refer to

12

illustration

11.12

The detonation (knock) sensor (see

illustration) generates a signal

knock occurs

in

when spark

the combustion chambers.

11.14a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor used on 1987 through 1989 2.5L engines and 1987 and 1988 3.0L engines

6

6-14

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems MAP SENSOR

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE ^1 PRESSURE

FUEL PRESSURE

REGULATOR

fjj

SENSOR 'J

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE

PLENUM VACUUM CONNECTOR

AIR INTAKE

(MAP) BAROMETRIC

UPDATE

SOLENOID

MAP SENSOR a-WAY ELECTRICAL' CONNECTOR

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor used on the 1989 turbo engine

11.14b

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor used on 1989 and 1990 3.0L engines

11.14c

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE (AAAP) SENSOR

HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR

PRESSURE

11.14e

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor used on 1990 2.5L and turbo engines

11.14d

Miscellaneous switches

sion neutral safety switch, the ing switch, the light

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor used on 1989 and 1990 3.3L engines

SENSOR OUTPUT (BLACK WIRE)

Various switches (such as the transmis-

brake

CONNECTOR

(all

engines) 15

4-WAY ELECTRICAL

air

condition-

speed control switch and the

switch) provide information to the

SMEC/SBEC, which

adjusts engine operation

accordance with what switch states are present at these inputs. The state of these in

switch inputs (high/low)

mine without the

DRB

II

Oxygen sensor

(all

Refer to

1 1.

illustration

is difficult

to deter-

When

ELECTRICAL

Typical heated oxygen sensor used on all engines

11.16

CONNECTOR

16

The oxygen sensor (see illustration), which is mounted in the exhaust manifold (the rear manifold on the 3.0L and 3.3L engines), produces a voltage signal when exposed to the oxygen present in the exhaust gases. The sensor is electrically heated internally for faster switching when the engine is lot of oxygen present sensor produces a low voltage signal; when there's little oxygen present (rich mixture), it produces a signal of higher voltage. By monitoring the oxygen content and converting it to electrical voltage,

there's a

(lean mixture), the

4-WAY

GROUND

engines)

16

running.

POWER AND

diagnostic meter.

the sensor acts as a lean-rich switch. The voltage signal to the

SMEC/SBEC

alters the

pulse width of the injector(s).

Throttle 17

The is

throttle

body temperature sensor,

mounted

in

the throttle body, moni-

tors the temperature of the throttle

temperature).

SMEC/SBEC,

When this

body

transmitted

to

(fuel

the

data helps determine the

18

illustration

11.18

The TPS (see

illustration),

which

is

located on the throttle body, monitors the angle of the throttle plate. The voltage produced increases or decreases in accordance with the opening angle of the throttle plate. This data,

when

relayed to the

SMEC/SBEC,

along with data from several other sensors, enables the computer to adjust the air/fuel

correct air/fuel mixture during a hot restart ratio in

condition.

(all

engines) Refer to

body temperature sensor

(2.5L engine) which

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

accordance with the operating condi-

any of the sensors controlled by the transmission, engine speed or air conditioning

Self-diagnosis system description and code access

12 FUEL SUPPLY

QUICK CONNECT

6-15

Emissions control systems

Chapter 6

FITTING

Note 1 Before outputting the trouble codes, thoroughly inspect ALL electrical connectors and hoses. Make sure all electrical connections are tight, clean and free of corrosion;

system. 3 To display the codes on the dashboard (CHECK ENGINE light), turn the ignition key

:

make sure all hoses are properly connected, fit tightly and are in good condition (no cracks or

tears).

Note ual,

2:

On

the

this

man-

located

in the

models covered by

CHECK ENGINE light,

the

instrument panel, flashes on for three seconds as a bulb test when the engine is THROTTLE POSITION

started.

The

comes on and

light

stays on

problem in the EFI system and can also be used to diagnose problems in the

when

SENSOR (TPS)

there's a

EFI system.

The self-diagnosis information conin the SBEC/SMEC can be accessed

1

FASTENERS

tained either

by the

ignition

key or by using a special

tool called the Diagnostic

11.18 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) on the throttle body of a 2.5L engine with single-point EFI

II).

This tool

nector

in

is

Readout Box (DRB

attached to the diagnostic con-

the engine compartment and reads

such as acceleration, deceleration, and wide open throttle.

idle

which

is

located

in

the transaxle extension

housing, senses vehicle motion.

It generates every revolution of the pulses driveaxle and transmits them as voltage signals to the SMEC/SBEC. These signals are compared by the SMEC/SBEC with a closed throttle signal from the throttle position sensor so it can distinguish between a closed throttle deceleration and a normal idle (vehicle stopped) condition. Under decel conditions, the SMEC/SBEC controls the AIS motor to maintain the desired MAP value; under idle conditions, the SMEC/SBEC adjusts the AIS motor to maintain the desired engine speed.

eight

for

code

engine rpm, engine temperature or input

voltage to the engine controller. that a fault

dealer service department or other properly-

quently, this

equipped repair shop.

malfunction, resulting

To obtain the codes using the first

ignition

and

set the parking brake

Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual). Raise the engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm and slowly let the speed down to idle. Also cycle the air condiput the transaxle

in

system (on briefly, then off). Next, if the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, with your foot on the brake, select each position on the transmission (Reverse, Drive, Low etc) and bring the shifter back to Park. This will allow the computer to obtain any fault codes that might be linked to tioning

injection

last fault or

Code

13*

**

No

in

MAP

system.

codes, the the

table

circuit or

code and a

is

a

list

of the trouble

system which

is

causing

brief description of the nature

of the problem.

From the descriptions pro-

vided, you should be able to troubleshoot the faulty circuit or

component.

If

you

can't, take

the vehicle to a dealer service department or

other qualified repair shop.

distributor reference signal detected during engine cranking

Direct battery input to controller disconnected within last 50 to

since faults were erased

Slow change

idle signal

100

ignition key-ons.

No

variation

No

difference

in

MAP

sensor signal

is

detected.

or

No change

in

MAP from

Start to

Run

is

recognized between the engine

MAP

reading and the

stored barometric pressure reading.

Code

1

**

4*

MAP

voltage too low

MAP

sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage.

MAP

sensor input above

or

MAP Code

15**

Code

16*

No **

voltage too high

vehicle

speed

signal

Battery input sense

No

cause

will

The following

5

No

key-ons since

A

is

cause an oxygen sensor in a stored code in the computer for the oxygen sensor. In other words, the sensors and circuits are highly interrelated with each other and with the fuel

Code

of

memory. Then

register a fault directly but will instead

Description of fault condition

ignition reference signal

not allow a fault

will

into the

a rich/lean fuel mixture problem. Conse-

Start of test (pre- 1989 models)

Number

be entered

entered into the memory that suggests a malfunction within another component that is not monitored by the computer. For example, a fuel pressure problem cannot

code

N/A

1

to

again, the exact opposite could occur:

Circuit

Code 12

possible

monitored

operating between 750 and 2000 rpm in order to monitor the Map sensor circuit correctly. If the engine speed is raised above 2400 rpm, the MAP sensor output circuit

code

key method,

is

may not be entered into the memory despite a malfunction. This may happen because one of the fault code criteria has not been met. For example, the engine must be

shorts to ground and

2

It

for a particular

circuit

Code 88

Fault

code

The tool is expensive and most home mechanics prefer to use the alternate method. The drawback with the ignition key method is that does not access all the available codes for display. If you're still unable to determine the cause of a problem after extracting any stored codes, have the vehicle's self-diagnosis system analyzed by a it

Vehicle distance (speed) sensor (2.5L, turbo, 3.3L and 3.8L engines) 19 The vehicle distance (speed) sensor,

of

the codes and parameters on the digital display screen. tions,

ON, OFF, ON, OFF and finally ON. The codes will begin to flash. The light will blink the number of the first digit then pause and blink the number of the second digit. For example: Code 23, throttle body temperature sensor circuit, would be indicated by two flashes, then a pause followed by three flashes. Certain criteria must be met for a fault 4 code to be entered into the engine controller memory. The criteria may be a specific range

maximum

acceptable

level.

distance sensor signal detected during road load conditions.

Battery voltage sense input not detected during engine running.

6

6-16 Fault

code

Code 17

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

Circuit

Description of fault condition

Engine runs cold too long

Engine coolant temperature remains below normal operating temperatures during vehicle

Code 21"

Oxygen sensor

signal stays at center

Neither rich nor lean signal

is

travel (thermostat problem).

detected from oxygen sensor input.

or

Oxygen sensor shorted

to voltage

Oxygen sensor later

Code

22*

Coolant sensor voltage too low

input voltage maintained

above normal range (1990 and

models).

Coolant temperature sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage.

or

Coolant sensor voltage too high

Code 23

Throttle

Coolant temperature sensor input above

maximum acceptable

voltage.

body temperature sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage (single-point EFI systems only).

body temperature voltage low

Throttle

body temperature voltage high

Throttle

or Throttle

body temperature sensor

input

above maximum acceptable

voltage (single-point EFI systems only). or

Charge temperature voltage low

Charge temperature sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage (1990 3.3L engine)

or

Charge temperature voltage high

Charge temperature sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage (1990 3.3L engine)

Code

24*

Throttle Position

Sensor voltage low

Throttle position sensor input

below minimum acceptable voltage.

Sensor voltage high

Throttle position sensor input

above maximum acceptable

or Throttle Position

Code

25*

Code

26*

Automatic Injector

1

Idle

Speed motor

circuits

peak current

Shorted condition detected

one or more

in

High resistance condition detected

in

of

AIS control

voltage.

circuits.

injector output circuit.

(pre- 1990 single-point systems).

or

INJ

1

peak current not reached

High resistance condition detected in the INJ 1 injector bank (1989 turbo and all multi-point systems).

circuit

or

INJ 2 peak current not reached

High resistance condition detected circuit

(1989 turbo and

all

in

the INJ 2 injector bank

multi-point systems).

or

INJ 3 peak current not reached

High resistance condition detected in the INJ 3 injector bank (all multi-point systems, except turbos).

circuit

Code

27*

Injector

1

control circuit

Injector output driver doesn't

respond properly to the control

signal (single-point systems).

or

INJ

1

control circuit

Injector

number one output

control signal (turbo

driver doesn't respond properly to the and multi-point systems).

or

INJ 2 control circuit

Injector

number two output

control signal (turbo

driver doesn't respond properly and multi-point systems).

to the

or

INJ 3 control circuit

Injector

number

three output driver doesn't respond properly to the

control signal (1990 turbo

and

all

multi-point systems).

or

INJ 4 control circuit

Injector

number

four output driver doesn't respond properly to the

control signal (1990 turbo systems).

Code

31*

Purge solenoid

Code

32'

EGR

circuit

solenoid circuit

An open

or shorted condition detected

in

purge solenoid

An open

or shorted condition detected

in

the

(some

EGR system

failure

Code 33

Air conditioning clutch relay circuit

solenoid circuit

California models).

Required change test

EGR

circuit.

(some

An open

in air/fuel ratio

not detected during diagnostic

California models).

or shorted condition detected

conditioning

in

the

in

the speed control

air

clutch relay circuit.

Code 34

Speed

control solenoid circuits

An open

or shorted condition detected

or vent solenoid circuits.

vacuum

Chapter 6 Fault

code

Code 35

Code

**

36*

6-17

Emissions control systems

Circuit

Description of fault condition

Radiator fan relay circuit

An open

Wastegate solenoid

An open

or shorted condition detected or shorted condition detected

in

the radiator fan relay

in

the turbocharger wastegate

circuit.

control solenoid circuit (turbos only).

Code 37

Part throttle unlock solenoid circuit

An open throttle

Code 41***

Alternator field not switching properly

or shorted condition detected in the torque converter part unlock solenoid circuit (automatic transaxles only).

An open

or shorted condition detected

in

the alternator field

in

the auto

control circuit.

Code 42

Auto shutdown relay control

circuit

An open

or shorted condition detected

shutdown

relay

circuit.

or

No Z1

Z1 voltage sense

voltage sensed

systems

only).

No ASD

relay voltage

when auto shutdown

relay

is

energized (turbo

or

No ASD

relay voltage

sense

at controller

sensed when

ASD

relay

is

energized (1991

multi-point systems).

Code 43

Output driver stage

Ignition control circuit

for ignition coil doesn't

respond properly to

the dwell control signal (1989 turbos). or Ignition coil

number one

circuit

Peak primary

circuit current not

achieved with

maximum

dwell time

(1990 3.3L engine). or Ignition coil

number two

circuit

Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time 3. 3L engine).

(1990 or Ignition coil

Code 44

number

three circuit

Peak primary circuit current not achieved with (1990 3.3L engine).

No FJ2

FJ2 voltage sense

maximum

dwell time

voltage present at logic board during controller operation

(1987 through 1989 single-point systems; 1987 and 1988 multi-point systems; turbo models).

Code 45

Boost

limit

MAP

exceeded

reading above overboost

(turbo

Code

46*

**

Charging system voltage too high

systems

limit

detected during engine operation

only).

Battery voltage sense input above target charging voltage during

engine operation.

Code

47*

**

Charging system voltage too low

Battery voltage sense input below target charging voltage during engine operation, and no significant change in voltage detected

during active test of alternator output.

6

Code 51"

Oxygen sensor

signal stays

52**

Oxygen sensor

signal stays

below center

Oxygen sensor

signal input indicates lean fuel/air ratio condition

during engine operation.

Code

above center

Oxygen sensor

signal input indicates rich fuel/air ratio condition

during engine operation. or

Excessive leaning

Adaptive

fuel value

leaned excessively due to a sustained rich

condition.

Code 53 Code

54*

**

Internal controller failure

Internal

No sync pick-up

No

signal

fault

Code 55 Code

N/A

BARO

61*

engine controller

Completion of

An open

read solenoid

Controller failure

(EMR

Code 63

Controller failure

(EEPROM

miles not stored) write denied)

condition detected.

fault

code display on the Check Engine

or shorted condition detected

circuit (turbo

Code 62

fault

sync signal detected during engine rotation. Completion of code display on the Check Engine light (turbos only).

fuel

models

in

the

BARO

light.

read solenoid

only).

Unsuccessful attempt to update

EMR

Unsuccessful attempt to write to an

mileage

EEPROM

in

the controller

location by the

controller.

**

These codes

light

These codes

light

up the Check Engine light on the instrument panel up the Check Engine light on the instrument panel on vehicles with special

California emissions controls

EPROM.

6-18

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems VACUUM CONNECTORS

Charge

13.8b

temperature sensor (arrow) (3.3L engine)

Charge temperature and coolant temperature

13.8a

sensors (3.0L engine)

IGNITION COILS ELECTRICAL

13.13a

Coolant temperature sensor (2.5L engine shown,

13.13b

CONNECTION,

Coolant temperature sensor (3.3L and 3.8L engines)

turbo model similar)

a

13

Information sensors

new paper spacer

face and the O-ring

replacement

its

is

already installed on the

is

properly positioned

in

the old one,

12

groove.

Apply a couple of drops of oil to the Oring prior to installation. When you install the sensor, push it down until it contacts the cam timing gear. Hold it in this position while you tighten the retaining bolt to the torque listed

screw

tape,

if

it

you're reinstalling in

with teflon

it)

and tighten securely.

Reattach the

electrical

connector.

6

Camshaft reference sensor (3.3L and 3.8L engines) 1

Unplug the cam reference sensor lead

at

the electrical connector (see illustration 2 ing

Loosen the cam reference sensor retainbolt enough to allow the slot in the sensor

bracket to slide past the bolt. 3 Remove the sensor from the timing chain cover. An O-ring seal on the sensor will

make

the sensor difficult to pull out of the

it'll come if you persist. Caution: Don't pull on the sensor wire or you'll damage

cover, but

you plug

sure the lead

is

in

routed

the sensor lead,

away from

make

the acces-

sory drivebelt.

If

you're reinstalling the

same

sensor,

(3.0L,

Refer

to illustrations 13.8a

tor

a

and 13.8b

you

installing a

new

sensor,

make

sure

plenum (see illustrations). Unplug the electrical connector from the

sensor.

1

Unscrew the sensor. Coat the threads of the new sensor

13b

13 The coolant temperature sensor is mounted in the thermostat housing (see

Open

see

illustra-

the radiator cap to release any

residual pressure.

intake

10

13. is

sensor.

14

and 1991 and earlier

Locate the charge temperature sensor on the right (passenger side) end of the air

aged. If

13a and

the engine

completely cool before replacing the coolant temperature until

tion 13.8a).

3.3L engines)

9

it

to illustrations 13.

Warning: Wait

illustrations; for 3.0L engine,

Charge temperature sensor

remove the old spacer, clean off the sensor face and install a new spacer on the face. Inspect the O-ring too. Replace if it's dam5

Chapter's Specifications.

After

8

it.

4

in this

7

11.8).

Coolant temperature sensor Refer

hose and

slight

will

vacuum

in

the cooling system, which

minimize coolant

loss).

Unplug the electrical connector from the coolant temperature sensor, unscrew the sensor and remove it. 16 Coat the threads of the new sensor (or 15

the old one, (or

Squeeze the upper radiathe cap (this will create

reinstall

if

you're reinstalling

it)

with teflon

tape, or a non-hardening thread sealant,

Chapter 6

6-19

Emissions control systems FUEL INJECTORS

WIRING^C^J

I 1 1 III ll

|

If

1

INV DETONATION (KNOCK) SENSOR > CONNECTOR WIRING CONNECTOR / // />- ,\ M'/^F^N

/

DISTANCE SENSOR

Crankshaft reference and distance sensors

13.18

(3.3L

13.25a

Electrical

connector for detonation (knock) sensor (turbo

and 3.8L engines)

engine)

CRANK POSITION SENSOR

I

DISTANCE SENSOR

DETONATION (KNOCK) SENSOR

3-WAY ELECTRICAL _

CONNECTION

13.25b

Electrical

connector for detonation (knock) sensor

13.26a

Detonation (knock) sensor (turbo engine)

(3.3L engine)

screw

it

in,

tighten securely

and reattach the

electrical lead.

Check the coolant

1 if

level

and add coolant

necessary.

Crankshaft reference sensor (3.3L

and 3.8L engines)

Refer to

illustration

13.18

18 Unplug the electrical connector from the crankshaft reference sensor (see illustration).

19

Loosen the crank reference sensor

retaining bolt.

20

Remove

the sensor from the transaxle

housing. 21

If

you're reinstalling the

same

sensor,

13.26b

remove the old spacer, clean off the sensor face and install a new spacer on the face. you installing a new sensor, make sure a new paper spacer is already installed on the

22

(3.3L engine)

detonation (knock) sensor (see illustrations). 26 Unscrew the sensor (see illustrations).

27

When you

down

until

it

the sensor, push contacts the driveplate. Hold install

it

it

Detonation (knock) sensor (turbo and 1991 and earlier 3.3L engines)

Distance (speed) sensor Refer to

28 in

in this

position while

bolt to the

torque

you tighten the retaining Chapter's

listed in this

Specifications.

24

Installation is the reverse of removal.

If

face.

23

Detonation (knock) sensor

Plug

in

the sensor electrical connector.

Refer to illustrations 13.25a, 13.25b, 13.26a

and 13.26b 25

Unplug the

electrical

connector to the

illustration

13.28

The distance (speed) sensor

is

located

the transaxle extension housing (see illus-

tration).

29 30

Unplug the

Remove

electrical

connector.

the retaining bolt and

lift

the

6-20

Chapter 6 THROTTLE BODY

U

Emissions control systems

HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR

ENGINE

GROUND STRAP

13.36a

Electrical

connector for oxygen sensor (2.5L engine)

13.36b

,

Electrical

connector for oxygen sensor (turbo engine)

AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY

13.36c

Electrical

connector for oxygen sensor (3.0L engine)

/f / / //f

HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR 'f/ 3-WAY CONNECTOR

//^ENGINE GROUND STRAP

'J'

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

Detach the vacuum hose from the sen-

Unplug the

electrical

connector from the

34

Remove

illustrations 13.36a, 13.36b,

13.36c

36 Unplug the oxygen sensor electrical connector (see illustrations). 37 The sensor is threaded into the exhaust

the sensor mounting bolts and

remove the sensor. 35 Installation is the reverse of removal.

To

manifold. cal lead.

remove

sensor.

Electrical

oxygen sensor

and 13.36d

sor (see illustrations 11.14a through 11.14e).

33

13.36d

V>

Refer to

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor 32

V\\v|

Oxygen sensor

sensor from the transaxle. 31

\V\Hfcs

locate

it,

simply trace the

On some models

it

may be

electri-

easier to

you raise the front of the vehicle securely on jackstands) for access to the underside of the engine compartment. 38 Unscrew the sensor. Chrysler recom(support

if

it

connector for the and 3.8L engines)

(3.3L

mends using special tool C-4907 for heated sensors (more important if, for example, you're simply removing a good sensor from a bad manifold and planning to reinstall it in another manifold). 39 Use a tap to clean the threads in the exhaust manifold. 40 If you're reinstalling the same sensor, apply a film of anti-seize compound to the threads. A new sensor should already have the anti-seize compound on the threads; if it doesn't, put

41

Install

plug

in

some

on.

the sensor, tighten

it

securely and

the electrical connector.

Throttle body temperature sensor (1987 through 1990

2.5L engine) 13.47

Apply heat transfer

compound

(included with

sensor) to the

tip of

Refer to

new

the

illustration

42 43

Remove

46 47

Remove

the

13.47

air

cleaner (see Chapter

4).

Disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle lever (see Chapter 4). 44 Remove the screws from the throttle cable bracket and remove the bracket. 45 Pulling downward, unplug the electrical connector from the sensor.

throttle body temperature sensor (1987 through 1990

2.5L engine)

AUTOMATIC SPEED

(AIS)

IDLE

MOTOR

THROTTLE BODY TEMPERATURE

SENSOR

the sensor.

Apply heat transfer compound (included with sensor) to the sensor tip (see illustration).

6-21

Emissions control systems

Chapter 6

THROTTLE POSITION

SENSOR

SENSOR

AUTOMATIC

NIPPLE

Removing the

13.52a

Throttle Position

throttle

body

Sensor (TPS) from the

13.52b

of a 2.5L engine

Throttle Position Refer to

IDLE SPEED (AIS)

(TPS)

MOTOR

Removing the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) from the throttle body of a turbo or 3.0L engine

Sensor (TPS)

illustrations 13.52a,

13.52b and

13.52c

50 On 2.5L engines, remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4). 51 Unplug the electrical connector from the

TPS

(three-wire connector).

52

Remove

TPS

to the throttle body, pull the

throttle shaft

the two screws retaining the

TPS

off

and remove the TPS (see

the VENT

illus-

MODULE

trations).

53

Al

is the reverse of removal. sure the flat tip of the throttle shaft seats properly into the slot in the TPS. Tighten the retaining screws securely.

Installation

CLEANER

Make

VENT HOSE

14.1a

Positive

Crankcase Ventilation

(PCV) system (2.2L engine)

14 Location of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (3.3L and 3.8L engines)

13.52c

Positive

Crankcase Ventilation

(PCV) system

-

(PCV) system (see illustrations)

is designed reduce hydrocarbon emissions (HC) by routing blow-by gases (fuel/air mixture that escapes from the combustion chamber past

to

48 49

Install

the sensor and tighten

The remainder

of

General description it

securely.

installation

is

the

Refer to

illustrations 14.1a, 14.1b, 14.1c,

14.1 d, 14.1e

reverse of removal.

1

CRANKCASE

The

and

the piston rings into the crankcase) from the

14.1 f

Positive

Crankcase

Ventilation

crankcase to the intake manifold and combustion chambers, where they are burned

INLET

HOSE

PCV VALVE

AIR CLEANER

CRANKCASE VENT VALVE HOSE ASSEMBLY PCV VALVE

INTAKE

MANIFOLD CRANKCASE VENT VALVE HOSE

PCV HOSE

TO CARBURETOR

CRANKCASE VENT TO AIR CLEANER

FITTING

14.1b

Positive

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system

(2.6L engine)

14.1c

Positive

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system

(2.5L engine)

6

6-22

Chapter 6

CLAMP

Emissions control systems CRANK CASE VENT VALVE

AIR INTAKE

AIR CLEANER

HOSE ASSEMBLY

PLENUM

ASSEMBLY

CRANKCASE VENT VALVE HOSE ASSEMBLY TO INTAKE MANIFOLD

CRANK CASE

INLET AIR FILTER

PCV VALVE

CRANKCASE VENT TO

CRANK CASE VENT TO AIR CLEANER HOSE

INTAKE MANIFOLD

AIR CLEANER TUBE

ASSEMBLY 14.1d

Positive

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system 14.1e

(2.5L turbo engine)

Positive

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system

(3.0L engine)

To check the PCV valve, detach it with the engine running you should hear a hissing sound coming from the valve and you should feel a strong vacuum when you place your finger over the end of the valve 14.3

14.1f

Positive

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system and 3.8L engines)

(3.3L

during engine operation.

The system is very simple and consists of rubber hoses and a small, replaceable metering valve (PCV valve). 2

Checking and component replacement

and fuel tank and would normally enter the atmosphere in the form of hydrocarbon (HC) emissions.

The system used on carbureted (2.2L and 2.6L) engines consists of a charcoalfilled canister, a damping canister, a combi2

nation rollover/separator valve, a bowl vent valve and connecting lines and hoses. Later

Refer to

illustration 14.3

carbureted models also have a Vacuum-Con-

3

With the engine running

PCV

valve out of the

at idle, pull the

mount and place your

finger over the valve inlet (see illustration).

strong

vacuum

will

be

felt

A

and a hissing noise

trolled Orificed Tank Vapor Valve (VCOTW). The system used on fuel-injected (2.5L,

turbo, 3.0L, 3.3L

and

3.8L) engines

is similar.

be heard if the valve is operating properly. Replace the valve with a new one, as

When the engine is off and a high pres3 sure begins to build up in the fuel tank (caused by fuel evaporation), the charcoal in

described in Chapter 1 if it is not functioning as described. Do not attempt to clean the old

the canister absorbs the fuel vapor.

will

,

valve.

15

Evaporative emissions control (EVAP) system

This system

is

designed

to trap

and

store fuel that evaporates from the carburetor

period after hot starts and during certain idle

conditions.

Under these conditions, the

SMEC/SBEC grounds which energizes

it.

SMEC/SBEC,

the

preventing

reaching the canister valve.

vacuum from

When

the engine

models, vapor from the carburetor

float

reaches a specified operating temperature and the specified time delay interval has elapsed, the solenoid is ungrounded, and de-energized. Vacuum can again flow to the canister purge valve and purge fuel vapors

to the intake manifold or air cleaner

and com-

through the throttle body.

bowl also enters the canister. When the engine is started (cold), the charcoal continues to absorb and store fuel vapor. As the engine warms up, the stored fuel vapors are routed bustion chambers where they are burned during normal engine operation. 4 The canister is purged using air from the

General description 1

On some

serves as a purge control device. The fuel vapors released from the main canister pass through the damping canister and are momentarily held before passing to the intake manifold. When the engine is shut off, a bowl vent valve opens so that the carburetor is vented directly to the main canister. Fuel-injected (2.5L, turbo, 3.0L, 3.3L 6 and 3.8L) engines have a device known as a purge solenoid which prevents canister purging during engine warm-up, for a certain time

air injection

5

On

pump

delay or purge valve.

2.6L engines a damping canister

7 fuel

The tank

relief valve, filler

the fuel tank

cap,

is

which

is

mounted in the open when

calibrated to

vacuum

or pressure reaches a

certain level. This vents the fuel tank relieves the high

vacuum

or pressure.

and

Chapter 6

15.16a

Typical canister purge solenoid

on right inner fender well, behind right headlight (turbo engine shown, 2.5L engine similar)

installation,

To check the canister delay valve, apply vacuum with a hand pump

15.10

Canister, lines, hoses, fuel relief

installation (3.3L engine)

filler

Check Engine light indicates a malfunction somewhere in the circuit for this device, but

cap

valve

Check the canister and lines for cracks and other damage. To check the filler cap and relief valve, 9 remove the cap and detach the valve by unscrewing it. Look for a damaged or deformed gasket and make sure the relief 8

valve

is

not

is

with a

in

not stuck open.

good

new

If

filler

reverse of removal.

Component replacement

Refer to

cap

Canister

one.

Refer to

10

vacuum delay

illustration

A symptom

valve

The canister

is

located

in

the corner of

the engine compartment, below the head-

15.10

13 14

is dif-

engine when it is hot. Disconnect the top vacuum hose (see illustration) and connect a vacuum pump to it. If the valve cannot hold the amount of vacuum listed in this Chapter's Specifications, replace the canister with a new one. ficulty in starting the

Remove

of

it

from beneath the

vehicle. Installation

the reverse of removal.

two

and 16.6

inlet air

air

cleaner intake.

2.2L engines the system air

temperature

the carburetor intake

flexible

is

below 10-degrees

air

flows through the

connector, up through the

into the carburetor.

made up When the

is

circuits (see illustration).

outside F.,

is

On

and

Canister purge solenoid 11 The canister purge solenoid is controlled by the SMEC/SBEC. A Code 31 on the

illustrations 16.2, 16.3, 16.4

The heated

system is designed to improve driveability, reduce emissions and prevent carburetor icing in cold weather by directing hot air from around the exhaust 2

the mounting bolts and lower

system

General description

Disconnect the vacuum hoses.

the canister, removing

1

inlet air

manifold to the

light.

of a failed delay valve

Heated

16

1

12

Canister

unplug the electrical connector, remove the bracket mounting bolt and detach the solenoid from the bracket. Installation is the

determining whether the circuit or the solenoid is the problem is part of a larger diagnostic test that - unless you've got a DRB (Miller C-4805 or equivalent) - can only be conducted by a dealer service department or other repair shop equipped with this tool. II

the valve or gasket

condition, replace the

Typical canister purge solenoid

15.16b

Checking end

6-23

Emissions control systems

When

the

cleaner

air air

temper-

Canister purge solenoid

ature

Refer to illustrations 15.16a and 15.16b

air

16 The canister purge solenoid is located on the right inner fender well, right behind the headlight (see illustrations). To replace it,

3 On 2.6L engines, the door in the air cleaner assembly is controlled by a vacuum motor which is actuated by a bi-metal tern-

is

above 15-degrees

F., air

cleaner through the outside

enters the duct.

air

AIR INTAKE

'HOUSING CLAMP

AIR INTAKE

HOSE

SNAP

ON

CUP air

cleaner

'assembly

HEAT PROTECTOR

CARBURETOR AIR

HEATER

CLAMP-

CLAMP

AIR

CLEANER STAY HEAT DUCT

CONNECTOR 16.2

Heated

inlet air

system (2.2L engine)

16.3

Heated

inlet air

system

(2.6L engine)

6

6-24

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

WIRING HARNESS

AIR CLEANER

GROUND

ASSEMBLY

HEATED AIR INLET TEMPERATURE SENSOR

16.6 16.4

Heated

inlet air

system

CRANK CASE VENT TO AIR CLEANER HOSE

Temperature sensor

(2.5L engine)

for heated inlet air

system

(2.5L engine)

perature sensor (see illustration). The sensor

vacuum and temperature inside the air cleaner itself. When the air temperature inside the air horn is 85-degrees F. or below, the air bleed valve in the sensor remains closed and intake manifold vacuum opens the air control door to direct heated air to the carburetor. When the air temperature inside the air cleaner is 1 13-degrees F. or above, the sensor air bleed reacts to both intake manifold

the

air

valve opens the

air

16.11

Checking the

vacuum diaphragm with a vacuum pump (2.2L engine)

duct door, allowing out-

side air directly into the carburetor. At tem-

peratures between the two extremes, the sensor provides a blend of outside and heated air to the carburetor. 4 On 2.5L engines, the temperature of the incoming air is controlled by intake manifold vacuum, a temperature sensor and a vacuum diaphragm which operates the heat control door in the snorkel (see illustration).

VACUUM PUMP Check

8

ail

vacuum hoses

for cracks,

2.6L engine

temperature is 15 or more degrees F. above the control temperature, incoming air flows through the snorkel

and broken sections. Make sure the shrouds and ducts are in good

ature less than 85 degrees

condition as well.

control valve

(the outside air inlet).

2.2L engine

perature. With the air temperature at the

5

When ambient

air

When the ambient air temperature is below the control temperature during startup, air flows through both the snorkel and the stove (the inlet heated by the exhaust manifold). The colder the ambient air, the greater the flow of air through the stove; the warmer 6

through the through each inlet is regulated by a heat control door in the snorkel to maintain a predetermined temperature at the temperature sensor mounted inside the air cleaner housing (see the

air,

the greater the flow of

snorkel.

The amount

Checking General Refer to Chapter 1 for the general checking procedure. If the system is not operating properly, check the individual components as follows.

1

15 Refer to

illustration 16.11

Remove

9

the

air

cleaner assembly from

it to cool to 65-degrees Apply 20 in Hg of vacuum to the sensor, using a hand vacuum pump. 10 The duct door should be in the up (heat

the engine and allow F.

air

of air flowing

illustration).

7

kinks, proper routing

on) position with the

vacuum

applied.

If

it

is

check the vacuum diaphragm. 11 To check the diaphragm, slowly apply vacuum with the hand pump while observing the door (see illustration). The duct door should not begin to open 12 at less than 2 in Hg and should be fully open at 4 in Hg or less. With 20 in Hg applied, the diaphragm should not bleed down more than not,

10 13

in

Hg

in five

minutes.

Replace the sensor and/or vacuum diaphragm with new units if they fail any of the tests. Test the

new

before reinstalling the

air

unit(s)

as described

cleaner assembly.

With the engine cold and the

air

see

temperif

the

air

the up (heat on) position.

is in

Warm up

F.,

the engine to operating tem-

entrance to the snorkel at the door should be in the

1

13-degrees

down

F.,

(heat off)

position. 1

Remove the air cleaner assembly from

engine and allow

it

to cool to

Connect a hand vacuum pump

the

85-degrees

F.

to the sensor.

Apply 15 in Hg of vacuum to the sensor 17 and see if the door is now in the up (heat on) position. If it is not, check the vacuum motor. 18 Apply 10 in Hg vacuum to the motor with the vacuum pump and see if the valve is in the up position. If it is not, replace the motor with a new one. On these vehicles the vacuum motor is an integral part of the air cleaner body and the entire assembly must be replaced.

2.5L engine Refer to

19

illustration

Make

sure

all

16.23

vacuum hoses and

the

6-25

Emissions control systems

Chapter 6

VACUUM DIAPHRAGM

Checking the vacuum diaphragm with a vacuum

16.23

pump

16.26

Remove

(2.5L engine)

the rivet to replace the 2.2L engine

vacuum diaphragm on

a

GASKET

SCREWDRIVER

On

16.37

Pry off the temperature sensor retaining clips with a screwdriver

16.31

flexible

and the and free

connector tube between the stove air cleaner are properly connected of tears.

With a cold engine and ambient temperature below 1 1 5-degrees F, the heat control door in the snorkel should be in the up (heat

20

on) position.

warmed up and running, temperature entering the snorkel or at the sensor. When the air temperature entering the outer end of the snorkel is 140 or more degrees F., the door should be With the engine

21

check the

air

down or (heat off) position. 22 Remove the air cleaner from the engine and allow to cool down to 11 5-degrees F. Apply 20 in Hg of vacuum to the temperature in

the

it

sensor

-

the door should be

on) position.

If

in the up (heat the door doesn't rise to the

on position, check the vacuum diaphragm for proper operation. 23 To test the diaphragm, apply 20 in Hg of heat

vacuum

with a

vacuum pump (see

illustra-

The diaphragm shouldn't bleed down more than 10 in Hg of vacuum in five minutes. And the door shouldn't lift off the bottom of the snorkel at less than 2 in Hg of vac-

tion).

uum, but it should be in the full up position with no more than 4 in Hg of vacuum. 24 If the vacuum diaphragm doesn't per-

then

16.32

pull

it

the 2.5L engine, pry off the clip(s) with

temperature sensor retaining a screwdriver

straight out

form as described above, replace the heated air assembly. 25 If the vacuum diaphragm does perform satisfactorily - but the temperature being maintained is still incorrect - replace the temperature sensor and repeat Steps 20 and 21

Component replacement

diaphragm tangs in the diaphragm clockwise until the tab

30

in

slot, it

turning the

engages. Rivet

place.

Q

Connect the vacuum hose.

Sensor Refer to

illustrations 16.31

and 16.32

Disconnect the vacuum hoses and use a screwdriver to pry off the retaining clips (see 31

2.2L engine

illustration).

Vacuum diaphragm

32

Refer to

(see illustration).

26

illustration

With the

nect the

air

16.26

cleaner removed, discon-

vacuum hose and

drill

out the retain-

ing rivet (see illustration).

Disengage the diaphragm by tipping it forward slightly while turning it slightly counterclockwise. Once disengaged, the unit can be removed by moving it to one side, disconnecting the rod from the control door and detaching it from the air cleaner assembly.

27

Check the

28

raising

to

fall

it

to the

closed.

control door for free travel by

up position and allowing does not close easily, free

full

If it

it it

Check the hinge pin for free movement also, using compressed air or spray cleaner up.

remove any foreign matter. 29 To install the diaphragm, insert the rod end into the control door and position the to

Detach the sensor from the housing

Place the gasket on the new sensor, sensor into the housing, hold it in place so the gasket is compressed to form a

33

insert the

good seal and install the new retainer 34 Connect the vacuum hoses.

clips.

2.5L engine

Sensor Refer to

illustrations

16.37

and 16.39

Remove the air cleaner housing (see 35 Chapter 4). Detach the vacuum hoses from the sen36 sor.

37

Remove

driver (see clip(s).

sensor.

New

the retainer clip(s) with a screwillustration).

Discard the old

clips are supplied with the

new

6-26

Chapter 6 SENSOR

^ GASKET

AIR CLEANER

Emissions control systems BODY

VACUUM MOTOR

SPRING

BACK PRESSURE TRANSCEIVER

VACUUM HARNESS

BACK PRESSURE SIGNAL TUBE STEM PROTECTOR INLET

Installing the

16.39

temperature sensor and gasket into the

EGR and backpressure transducer assembly

17.3a

air

OUTLET (2.5L engine)

cleaner on a 2.5L engine

38

Remove

the sensor and gasket. Discard

the old gasket. the

new

A new one

is

included with

sensor.

ates

39 Put the new gasket on the new sensor and install them (see illustration). Pressing against the outer diameter of the sensor to compress the gasket and form an airtight seal, install the retaining clip(s).

40 the

Reattach the vacuum hoses and air

Carbureted engines On 2.2L engines, the EGR 2

install

cleaner housing.

in

exhaust side of the

conjunction with the Coolant

EGR

controlled by carburetor vacuum.

17

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system

General description 1

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)

system reduces oxides

of nitrogen

(NOx)

in

mary valve

of the dual

EGR

valve

The

mixture, which in turn reduce the peak flame temperature during combustion (a high combustion temperature is the primary cause of NOx). The main component in all EGR systems is the EGR valve. dilute the air/fuel

BACKPRESSURE TRANSDUCER

1

7.3b

and

1

SMEC/SBEC the

ducer uses

.

part of the

from the

and, using this signal, regulates

flowing through to the transducer

The backpressure transducer measures the amount of exhaust gas backpressure on the exhaust side of the EGR valve and varies the strength of the vacuum signal applied to the EGR valve. The transthis

vide the correct

On 2.5L, 3.0L, 3.3L and 3.8L engines, a backpressure type EGR valve is ported to the throttle body. On 2.5L and 3.0L engines, a backpressure transducer measures the amount of exhaust gas backpressure on the

,

vacuum

electrical signal

part of the EET.

7.4

PISTON

The vacuum solenoid

EET receives an

3

VACUUM MOTOR

3.3L and 3.8L engines, an electric transducer (EET) serves as a backpres-

illustration).

valve operates

Fuel-injected engines 7.3a,

On

sure transducer and an electric vacuum solenoid combined into a single unit (see

is

pri-

function doesn't affect driveability.

7

this

EGR

secondary valve takes over when the opening is larger. The vacuum which operates the dual EGR valve is supplied by a coolant temperature actuated thermo valve so that EGR

to illustrations

valve (see illustrations).

uses

4

during small openings of the throttle and the

Refer

EGR

ties.

the exhaust emissions and helps prevent

spark knock by recirculating some of the exhaust gases back through the intake to

valve and varies the signal applied to the

The transducer backpressure signal to provide the correct amount of recirculated gases under any condition. All California models with this system have on-board diagnostic capabili-

Vacuum

Switch Cold Closed (CVSCC) valve. This coolant valve and the EGR valve remain shut at low engine temperatures. At higher temperatures, the coolant valve opens, allowing vacuum to be applied to the EGR valve, and exhaust gas to recirculate. On 2.6L engines, a sub-EGR valve is operated directly by the throttle linkage, while a dual

EGR

vacuum

strength of the

valve oper-

culation under

backpressure signal to proof exhaust gas recir-

amount all

conditions.

On

California

models, the SMEC/SBEC monitors this system for malfunctions and stores a trouble code when a fault is detected in the system.

ELECTRIC EGR TRANSDUCER (EET)

SPRING

SPRING

DIAPHRAGM DIAPHRAGM

MOVEMENT^" INDICATOR

BACK PRESSURE SIGNAL TUBE

BACKPRESSURE SIGNAL TUBE

STEM PROTECTOR

INLET

OUTLET

INLET

17.3b

EGR and backpressure

transducer assembly

(3.0L engine)

17.4

EGR and

electric

(3.3L

EGR

transducer assembly

and 3.8L engines)

Chapter 6

6-27

Emissions control systems

Checking 2.2L engine Refer to

illustration

Check

1

7.5

hoses for cracks, kinks, broken sections and proper connection (see 5

all

illustration). Inspect

connections for dam-

all

age, cracks and leaks.

An exploded view

17.5

To check the EGR valve operation, bring the engine up to operating temperature and, 6

the

(2.2L engine)

blocked to prevent movement), allow it to idle for 70 seconds. Open the throttle abruptly so that with the transmission

in

Neutral

(tires

between 2000 and 3000 to close. The EGR valve if the control system is properly. The test should be

the engine speed

is

rpm and then allow stem should move

of

EGR system components

EGR TUBE

it

working repeated several times. Movement of the

stem indicates that the control system

is

functioning correctly.

7

If

check

EGR

valve stem does not move,

of the

hose connections to make

the all

CARBURETOR VACUUM SUB EGR CONTROL VALVE

sure they are not leaking or clogged. Disconnect the vacuum hose and apply the amount

vacuum

of

listed in this

tions with a

hand pump.

not move, replace the

DUAL EGR CONTROL VALVE

Chapter's SpecificaIf

the stem

EGR

still

valve with a

does

new

the valve does open, measure the valve travel to make sure it is within the spec-

one.

If

ified limit.

Apply vacuum with the pump and then clamp the hose shut. The valve should stay open for 30 seconds or longer. If it does not, the diaphragm is leaking and the valve should be replaced with a new one. 9 To check the coolant valve (CVSCC) located in the thermostat housing, bypass it 8

with a length of 3/16-inch tubing.

If

the

TO JET AIR CONTROL VALVE

EGR

THROTTLE VALVE

valve did not operate under the conditions

described in Step 6, but does operate properly with the CVSCC bypassed, the CVSCC is defective and should be replaced. 10 If the EGR valve does not operate with the CVSCC bypassed, the carburetor must

of the vehicle during testing.

be removed to check and clean the slot-type port in the throttle bore and the vacuum passages and orifices in the throttle body. Use

Increase the speed to 2500 rpm and check the secondary EGR valve to make sure that it does not operate when the engine is

solvent to remove deposits and check for

cold.

flow with light

air

pressure.

EGR valve and inspect the poppet and seat area for deposits. If the deposits are more than a thin film of carbon, the valve should be cleaned. To clean the valve, apply solvent and allow it to penetrate and soften the deposits, making sure that none gets on the valve diaphragm, as it could be damaged. Use a vacuum pump to hold the valve open and carefully scrape the deposits from the seat and poppet area with a tool. Inspect the poppet and stem for wear and replace the valve with a new one if wear Remove

11

is

the

found.

12

illustration

Check

all

cracks, kinks,

17.12

hoses and connections for damage and correct installa-

tion (see illustration).

13 idle.

With the engine cold, start and run it at Block the tires to prevent any movement

Schematic of the

14

does, the thermo valve is faulty and must be replaced with a new one. 15 Allow the engine to warm up and If

it

observe the secondary EGR valve to see that it opens as the temperature rises and the idle speed increases. If it does not open, the secondary EGR valve itself or the thermo valve is faulty.

16

To check the secondary EGR valve and

the thermo valve,

disconnect the green

vacuum hose from the carburetor and connect a vacuum pump to the hose. Apply six inches of vacuum with the pump as you striped

open the sub EGR 17

2.6L engine Refer to

17.12

If

valve.

the engine idle

becomes

unstable, the

secondary valve of the dual EGR is operating properly. If the idle speed is unchanged, the secondary valve or the thermo valve is faulty and must be replaced with a new one. 18 Reconnect the green striped hose and disconnect the yellow striped hose at the carburetor.

19

Connect the hand vacuum pump

EGR system

(2.6L engine)

hose and, while opening the sub EGR valve. apply six inches of vacuum. 20 If the idle becomes unstable, the EGR primary valve

is

replaced with a

new

2.5L, 3.0L, 3.3L

If

the idle

one.

and 3.8L engines

hoses between the throttle body, intake manifold and EGR control valve for leaks. Make sure all hoses are snug and in good condition. Replace any hoses that are hardened, cracked or melted, any replace 21

any 22

Inspect

all

faulty connectors.

Warm up

the engine, allow

it

to idle

70 seconds with the throttle closed, then abruptly accelerate the engine to about 2000 (but not over 3000) rpm. The EGR valve stem should visible move during this procedure. You can tell if the stem moves by noting any change in the relative position of the groove in the stem (see illustrations 17.3a and 17.3b). Repeat this operation several times to verify the stem is really moving. Stem movefor

ment indicates to the

operating properly.

unchanged, the EGR primary valve or the thermo valve is not operating and should be is

that the control

system

is

Q

6-28

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems TO THROTTLE BODY VACUUM NIPPLE

INTAKE MANIFOLD

VALVE GUIDE

CONNECTED TO THROTTLE LINKAGE

VALVE

CARBURETOR THROTTLE BODY E.G.R.

VALVE

GASKET EXHAUST MANIFOLD

EXHAUST GAS OUTLET

EXHAUST GAS INLET

TO INTAKE CROSS-OVER TUBE E.G.R.

Sub-EGR

17.41

operating correctly.

go 23

If

valve layout (2.6L engine)

the stem

isn't

moving,

To determine whether EGR gas is flowhook up a hand-

ing through the system,

operated vacuum pump to the EGR valve vacuum motor. With the engine running at idle speed, slowly apply vacuum. Engine speed should begin to drop when the applied vacuum reaches 2 to 3.5 in Hg. Engine speed should drop quickly, and the engine may even stall. This indicates EGR gas is flowing through the system. 24 The most likely cause of a non-operable EGR valve stem is the hoses. Verify that all hose connections are good. Make sure there are no leaks anywhere

in

the system and

all

hoses are open. Replace any defective hoses.

Disconnect the hose harness from the EGR vacuum transducer and hook up an auxiliary vacuum supply. Raise the engine rpm to 2000 rpm and apply 10 in Hg of vacuum while observing valve stem movement. 26 If the stem still doesn't move, replace the valve/transducer assembly. 27 If the valve stem now moves (about 1/8inch of travel), hold the vacuum supply to check for a leaking diaphragm. The valve should remain open for 30 seconds or longer. 28 If the diaphragm is leaking, replace the valve/transducer assembly. 29 If the EGR valve stem and diaphragm are operating satisfactorily when an external vacuum source is applied (but didn't work 25

when

control system

To

verify

solenoid

defective

a

or

details (1987 2.5L engine)

Component replacement

solenoid control circuit on a California model

to Step 24.

correctly

31

EGR mounting

17.44a

was tested) the probably defective, a pas-

the system is

2.2L engine

EET and on-board diagnostics, output any stored trouble codes (see Section 12). The Check Engine light should display a

38

Code

Any further diagnosis of this problem should be referred to a dealer service

valve.

department.

air

with

32

32.

What

the engine won't

if

idle,

dies

when

returning to idle or has a very rough or slow idle? Either the

EGR

closed position, or the manifold

33

is

valve

EGR

leaking

is

in its

tube to the intake

leaking.

To determine whether the EGR valve

is

closed position, detach the vacuum hose from the EGR valve with the engine idling. The idle should pick up immediately leaking

in its

and smooth out. 34 If it doesn't, turn off the engine and remove the air cleaner to expose the throttle

body

inlet

remove the

(on turbo engines,

compressor-out hose at the throttle body). Disconnect the backpressure hose from the

EGR

valve. Using a nozzle with a rubber

compressed

tip,

(about 50 to 60 psi) through the steel backpressure tube on the EGR valve while opening and closing the throttle plate. If the sound from the com-

force

air

The

ing the

CVSCC

can be replaced by remov-

vacuum hoses and unscrewing

To replace the EGR

39

connect the metal remove the two retaining nuts and detach the valve.

2.6L engine Refer to

illustration

17.41

The dual EGR valve

is located on the lower part of the intake manifold. It is replaced by removing the vacuum hoses and unbolting it. It may be necessary to tap the valve gently with a soft-faced hammer to break the gasket seal so it can be removed. Use a new gasket when installing the valve and check the vacuum hoses for proper rout-

40

ing.

The sub EGR valve

41

base

of the carburetor

clip

and remove the

in

the

to the next Step.

Remove the throttle body (see Chapter and inspect the port in the throttle bore and the associated passages in the throttle body. Remove any deposits with a suitable solvent and check for air flow through these passages with light air pressure. Install the throttle body and re-check the EGR system. Cleaning these passages usually restores normal operation of the

EGR

system.

pin attaching the plunger

retighten

Chap-

then recheck the system

insert the pin. Carefully slide the spring clip

distinctly,

the poppet

is

leaking and air

is entering the intake maniReplace the EGR valve. 35 To determine whether the EGR tube to the intake manifold is leaking on a 2.5L, a 3.3L or a 3.8L engine, loosen the tube and it

to the torque listed

ter's Specifications,

in this

check

uniformly indented on the gasket with no evi-

Go

connected by a

plunger out of the carburetor throttle body. Before installing the plunger, lubricate it with a small amount of light oil. Install the steel ball and spring, hold the linkage in place and

changes

4)

bad.

located on the

fold.

air

30

is

is

end of the linkage up and remove the spring and the steel ball from the end of the plunger. 42 Slip the rubber boot off and slide the

pressed

into place, then

control system

is

to the linkage. Hold the

of the valve plunger.

solenoid or the solenoid control circuit

and

linkage (see illustration). Pry off the spring

To determine whether the EGR tube to the intake manifold is leaking on a 3.0L engine, remove the tube and inspect the tube seal on the gasket. The tube end should be

is

remove the

pump and shield. Distube and vacuum hose,

cleaner, air injection

for leaks.

plugged or - on California models with EET and on-board diagnostics - a

sage

valve,

the

36

dence

of exhaust

gas leakage.

If

you see any

sign of leakage, replace the gaskets and tighten the flange nuts to the torque listed in

Chapter's Specifications, then recheck the system for leaks. 37 If an EGR leak persists, replace the EGR tube and gaskets. this

43

for

smooth operation

The thermal valves are threaded

intake manifold. Drain

some

into the

coolant (see

Chapter 1), then pull off the vacuum hose and unscrew the valve from the housing.

2.5L engine illustrations 1 7.44a and 1 7.44b To remove the EGR valve, disconnect the vacuum line from the EGR valve (inspect damaged), remove the and replace

Refer to

44

it

if

mounting bolts from the valve (see

illustra-

6-29

Emissions control systems

Chapter 6 SCREWSi

EGR VALVE ASSEMBLY INTAKE

MANIFOLD

EXHAUST MANIFOLD

^GASKET

TUBE

17.44b

tions)

EGR mounting

and remove the

details (1988

and

valve. Discard the old

for

later 2.5L engines)

Clean the gasket surface and inspect it any signs of exhaust gas leaks and

55

it

for

Unplug the

EET (see

A

Vacuum

B

Electrical

electrical

EGR

connector from the

tration 17.54) from the intake manifold.

Chapter's Specifi-

To remove the EGR tube, remove the

59

or 17.44b), remove the tube and discard the gaskets. 48 Clean the gasket mounting surfaces of

for

Remove

the

60

in

converter along with

the

EGR

install

the attaching bolts

and tighten them to the torque

listed in this

Chapter's Specifications. Clip the EET in place with the orientation tab in the slot and the snap closed. Plug in the electrical connector and reattach the vacuum hose.

51 Remove the EGR valve tube flange nuts from the intake manifold. Remove the valve and tube assembly and discard the old gas-

To remove the EGR tube, remove the attaching bolts from the intake and exhaust manifolds, remove the tube, discard the old gaskets, clean the gasket surfaces and inspect them for exhaust gas leaks and cracks. Using new gaskets, loosely install the EGR tube on the intake and exhaust manifolds and tighten the attaching bolts to the

kets.

torque

50 Remove the EGR valve mounting nuts from the exhaust manifold and the EGR flange bolts from the valve itself.

gasket mating surfaces and inspect them for evidence of exhaust gas leaks and cracks. 53 Installation is the reverse of removal. Using a new gasket, loosely install the EGR tube to the EGR valve. Then install new gaskets on both the intake and exhaust manifolds, position the EGR valve and tube loosely on the engine and tighten the EGR tube flange nuts, EGR tube-to-valve screws and EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-

52

Clean

tions.

54

Chapter's Specifications.

Catalytic converter

1

The

reduce

catalytic converter

hydrocarbon

is

(HC)

monoxide (CO) pollutants

illustration

in

designed to and carbon the exhaust

gases. The converter oxidizes these

compo-

nents and converts them to water and carbon dioxide.

The system on these vehicles consists and a main under floor converter. The mini-oxidizer converter of a mini-oxidizer converter

17.54

Disconnect the vacuum

line

(see

illus-

oily

or gasoline

soaked parts

Checking The catalytic converter requires little if any maintenance and servicing at regular intervals. However, the system should be inspected whenever the vehicle is raised on a lift or if the exhaust system is checked or ser4

viced.

Check all connections in the exhaust 5 pipe assembly for looseness and damage. Also check all the clamps for damage, cracks and missing fasteners. Check the rubber hangers for cracks. The converter itself should be checked 6 for damage and dents (maximum 3/4-inch deep) which could affect its performance and/or be hazardous to your health. At the same time the converter is inspected, check the heat shields under it, as well as the heat insulator above it, for damage and loose fasteners.

General description

2

3.3L and 3.8L engines Refer to

listed in this

all

18

Always observe the following precau-

not prolong engine compression checks Avoid coasting with the ignition turned Off Do not dispose of a used catalytic

is

61

3.0L engine

unburned gasoline overheat and cause

Do

the reverse of removal. valve with a new gasket onto

Installation

Install

then tighten them to the torque listed

it

fuel tank

intake

cracks.

the intake manifold,

Chapter's Specifications.

and

Clean the gasket mating surfaces. Look any signs of exhaust gas leaks and

EGR

bolts,

clip

EGR transducer. EGR valve from the

electric

the the intake and exhaust manifold and the

this

fire.

of

may

amounts

Use only unleaded gasoline Avoid prolonged idling Do not run the engine with a nearly empty

manifold. Discard the old gasket.

four attaching bolts (see illustration 17.44a

tube flanges. Look for evidence of exhaust gas leaks and cracks. 49 Installation is the reverse of removal. Using new gaskets, loosely tighten all four

a

valve bolts (see illus-

Open the EGR transducer

remove the 58

cations.

47

57

large

If

tions:

56

in this

3

enter the catalyst,

cracks.

the

Mounting bolt

connector

illustration 17.54).

Remove

C

line

damage.

46 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use a new gasket and tighten the EGR valve to the torque listed

valve mounting details (3.3L and 3.8L engines)

EGR Transducer

tration) from the Electric (EET). Inspect

gasket.

45

EGR

17.54

BOLTS

begins the exhaust gas oxidization, which then completed by the main converter.

is

Component replacement 7

Do not attempt

converter

until

to

remove the

catalytic

the complete exhaust system

cool. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply some penetrating oil to the clamp bolts and allow it to is

in. Disconnect the oxygen sensor (if equipped) from the converter. 8 Remove the bolts and the rubber hangers, then separate the converter from the

soak

6

6-30

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

exhaust pipe. Remove the old gaskets if they are stuck to the pipes. 9 Installation of the converter is the reverse of removal. Use new exhaust pipe gaskets and tighten the clamp nuts to the specified torque. Replace the oxygen sensor wires (if equipped), start the engine and check carefully for exhaust leaks.

19

MODULE

RESET

SWITCH

Emissions Maintenance (MAINT

REQD) Reminder

Light

General information and reset procedures The Emissions Maintenance Reminder light is

designed to be a reminder to service

the vehicle emissions control systems.

It

is

not a warning, only a reminder to perform

emissions servicing. The illuminate the

EMR Module

MAINT REQD

light at

VIEW

will

a prede-

IN

DIRECTION OF

ARROW

W

termined time or mileage, depending on model. The light will stay on until the emission service is performed and the light is reset.

The components

that require servicing

and replacing the components if necessary. Procedures for resetting the reminder ing

light

19.3

The module reset switch on the back

of the instrument cluster (1987 through 1988 models)

EGR

system, PCV system, EVAP system and the oxygen sensor. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule and the appropriate sections of this chapter for details on checkare the

are as follows:

1984 through 1986 models

screwdriver into hole

in

the switch, closing

new

instrument cluster lens and the fuel gauge or

tachometer. Insert a small screwdriver into the hole

in

the module and reset the switch

(see illustration). Don't disconnect the battery

before resetting the

EMR

Module. Replace

the fuel gauge, instrument cluster lens and

computer.

Locate a green, red, tan or white plastic case behind the instrument panel in the lower left cluster area, back of the instrument panel or top right of the glove box. Slide the case from the bracket and open the cover. Remove the 9 volt battery and insert a small the contacts. Replace the battery with a

9 volt alkaline type battery. Close the case and slide the switch back into the bracket. Note: Don't disconnect the vehicle battery during the reset procedure. The battery must be connected to prevent power loss to the

bezel.

1987 and 1988 models Refer to

A

1989 and later models

illustration 19.3

reset switch

is

A located

in

the Emis-

sions Maintenance Reminder (EMR) Module.

To access the

EMR

module, remove the

instrument cluster bezel (see Chapter

11),

the

special DRB-II "scan" tool

to reset the

EMR module

is

required

on 1989 and

later

models. Take the vehicle to a dealer service

department or independent mechanic that has the correct

tool.

7A-1

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle Contents Section Gearshift linkage

-

adjustment

2

General information

1

See Chapter See Chapter

Lubricant change Lubricant level check

Manual transaxle overhaul

-

general information

1 1

Section

Manual transaxle - removal and installation Oil seal - replacement Speedometer drive pinion - removal and installation Transaxle mount - check and replacement

3

See Chapter 7B 5

See Chapter 2

4

Specifications

General Transaxle type

1984 through 1986 A-460 A-465 A-525 1987 through 1988 A-520 1989 A-520 A-555 (Turbo) 1990 A-523 A-568 (Turbo) 1991 and later A-523 Fluid type and capacity

See Chapter

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Four-speed Five-speed Five-speed Five-speed Five-speed Five-speed

Five-speed

Selector shaft lock pin

105

Gearshift housing-to-case bolts

21

Gearshift lever nut (1984 through 1989 only)

21

Anti-rotation link bracket-to-stud nut

17 70

Strut-to-block or case bolts Fill

1

in-lbs

plug

A-568 All

(turbo

Press-in rubber plug

others

Clutch housing (transaxle-to-engine) bolts j

7A

Five-speed Five-speed

Mount-to-block and case bolts screw (1987 through 1989 models).

Shift linkage adjusting

Speedometer drive assembly End cover bolts

bolt

Selector/crossover cable adjusting screw 1984 through 1987

1988 on

24 70 70 20 60

in-lbs in-lbs

21

55 70

in-lbs in-lbs

7A-2

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual

transaxle

LOCK PIN

GEARSHIFT

LOCK PIN

LEVER

PULL-UP RING

KNOB

VIEW SHOWING PIN AFTER RE-ASSEMBLY

LONG END UP

TRANSAXLE

BOOT 2.2 it

Remove the selector shaft lock pin, flip it over, then reinstall in the same hole - move the selector shaft until the lock pin

drops into the hole

in

Gearshift knob and pull-up ring removal

2.3a

(1984 through 1989 models)

the selector shaft, then tighten the lock pin

NUT

GEARSHIFT

USE ADJUSTABLE SUP-JOINT TYPE PLIERS TO INSTALL CABLE ONTO STUD.

(6)

,DECAL

MECHANISM

KNOB

ASSEMBLY BALL

SCREW

(LUBRICATE)

NUT

CLIP

TURN

- TIGHTEN FINGER TIGHT PLUS ONE

(TIGHTEN FIRST) CLIP

STUD (LUBRICATE)

(USE LOCTITE).

PULL-UP RING

BOOT ASSEMBLY

LOCKNUT

SCREW

(2)

STUD (LUBRICATE)

USE ADJUSTABLE SLIP-JOINT TYPE PLIERS TO INSTALL CABLE ONTO STUD.

2.3b -

Shift linkage

components

NUT

CROSSOVER CABLE ASSEMBLY

exploded view (1984 through 1989 models)

(6)

CABLE

ADJUSTING SCREW

(LUBRICATE)

replacement parts and special tools internal repair of the manual transaxle by the home mechanic is not rec-

selector shaft housing (see illustration). Reverse the lock pin so the longer end is

The vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with a four- or five-speed manual

ommended. The

ing the selector shaft

transaxle, a three-speed automatic transaxle

tion

ity

1

General information

of

required,

Chapter

is

bulk of information

devoted

to

removal and

in this

installa-

matic transaxle. The information on manual is in this Part of Chapter 7. Service procedures for the automatic transaxles are

contained

in

Chapter

7,

Part B.

Each manual transaxle is a compact, two-piece, lightweight aluminum alloy housing containing both the transmission and the differential

assemblies.

Because

of the complexity, unavailabil-

2

Gearshift linkage

-

adjustment

reinstall

Refer to illustrations 2.2, 2.3a, 2.3b, 2.4a,

2.20 and 2.23

Raise the hood and place a pad or a 1 fender cover on the fender to protect it. 2 Remove the lock pin from the transaxle

in.

its

hole while

When

mov-

the lock pin

in the selector shaft, place so the shaft is locked in the first/second (1984 through 1986) or third/fourth (1987 and later) neutral position. On 1984 through 1989 models, pull off 3 it

into

the gearshift knob,

2.4b, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.13, 2.14, 2.15, 2.19,

into

it

aligns with the hole

thread

procedures.

or a four-speed Ultradrive electronic auto-

transaxles

down and

retaining nut

and

illustrations).

remove the pull-up

ring

off

the pull-up ring (sea

Remove

the shifter boot and

lift

console (see Chapter 11). 4 On 1990 and later models, pry the tabs out with two screwdrivers, one on each side, then lift the shifter knob off (see illustra-

Chapter 7 Part A

7A-3

Manual transaxle GEARSHIFT MECHANISM

KNOB

KNOB RETAINER

EARS EARS OUT TO REMOVE KNOB)

|PRY

BOOT Gearshift knob removal (1990 and 1991 models)

2.4a

CLIP

GEARSHIFT

2.4b

ADJUSTING PINS

MECHANISM

(2

(2)

Shift linkage

components

exploded view (1990 and

REQUIRED)

tions).

Remove

later

-

models)

the shifter boot and console

(see Chapter 11).

1984 through 1986 models 5

Fabricate the cable adjusting pins 2.6

install them as shown here (1984

and

CROSSOVER \

each wire

CABLE

\ ADJUSTING \ \ PIN

Fabricate two five-inch long adjusting

pins from 5/32-inch wire. at a right

Bend one end

of

angle so the pins are easy

to grasp.

tod ft?

pin into the 6 Insert one adjusting crossover cable hole of the shaft mechanism and the other into the selector cable hole

through 1986 models)

(see illustration). Loosen the selector cable adjusting 7

(SELECTOR CABLE

"ADJUSTING

EARSHIFT

SELECTOR CABLE

TO SELECTOR

screw, then use an in-lb torque wrench to it to the torque listed in this Chapter's

tighten

CABLE

SCREW -*

Specifications (see illustration).

8 Loosen the crossover cable adjusting screw, then use an in-lb torque wrench to

MECHANISM GEARSHIFT LEVER

ADJUSTING PIN

CROSSOVER CABLE

CROSSOVER CABLE ADJUSTING PIN

INCH-POUND TORQUE WRENCH CROSSOVER CABLE ADJUSTING SCREW SELECTOR CABLE SELECTOR CABLE ADJUSTING SCREW

INCH-POUND TORQUE WRENCH 2.7

Adjusting the selector cable with a torque wrench (1984 through 1986 models)

ADJUSTING PIN

CROSSOVER CABLE ADJUSTING PIN

2.8

Adjusting the crossover cable with a torque wrench (1984

through 1986 models)

7A

7A-4

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual

transaxle

ADJUSTING SCREW TOOL GEARSHIFT

(LEFT-HAND THREAD)

INCH-POUND TORQUE WRENCH

LEVER

SELECTOR CABLE ADJUSTING 2.13

Install

the adjusting screw and spacer block as (1987 through 1989 models)

shown

Tightening the selector cable adjusting screw (1987 through 1989 models)

2.14

GEARSHIFT LEVER

SCREWDRIVER

CROSSOVER

SELECTOR CABLE (NONADJUSTABLE)

CROSSOVER CABLE ADJUSTING SCREW

CABLE

2.19

Tightening the crossover cable adjusting screw (1987 through 1989 models)

2.15

tighten

it

to the torque listed

in

this

Chapter's

Remove

ring

11

Install

properly.

the adjusting pins from the shift

7987 through 1989 models

mechanism. 10

to pry the end of each cable off its the crossover cable is located on the other side of the shifter assembly (1990 and later models)

Use a screwdriver -

Reverse and make sure the Reverse lock out

mechanism works

Specifications (see illustration).

9

ballstud

the console, shift boot, pull-up

and nut and

shift

knob.

Unscrew the lock

housing, reinstall

and tighten

it

it

Remove

with the longer end up

to the torque listed

in

in First

this

and

tion).

the adjusting screw tool from

as shown (see illustration). Tighten the adjusting screw to to torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 14 Loosen the selector cable adjusting screw, then tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications (see illustration). the shifter and

pin from the selector

Chapter's Specifications. 12 Check the shifter operation

13

install

15 Loosen the crossover cable adjusting screw, then tighten in to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications (see illustra-

it

1

6

Remove

install

17

it

in its

the adjusting screw tool and reoriginal location

Unscrew the

housing, reinstall

and tighten

it

on the

shifter.

lock pin from the selector it

with the longer end up

to the torque listed

in

this

Chapter's Specifications. Check the gearshift cables for proper 18

GEARSHIFT

TORQUE

KNOB

WRENCH

(PUSH ON)

BOOT 2.20

Be sure the crossover bellcrank is properly centered, then tighten the adjusting screw (1990 and later models)

2.23

On 1990 and

later

models, straight

install

down

the shift knob by pushing

Chapter 7 Part connection

at the transaxle.

Check the

A Manual

7A-5

transaxle

shifter

and Reverse and make sure the Reverse lock out mechanism works properly. Install the console, shift boot and shift operation

in First

knob.

1990 and later models

ing

screw

to the torque listed

A support

3.3

fixture that

19 Use a screwdriver to pry the selector cable and crossover cable off the shifter mechanism (see illustration). 20 Install the crossover cable by pressing it onto the ballstud. Loosen the crossover cable adjusting screw, properly center the crossover bellcrank, then tighten the adjustin this

supports the engine from above, like the

one shown here, is

preferred

Chap-

(see illustration). Be sure the crossover bellcrank does not move when tightening the adjusting screw. ter's Specifications

the selector cable by pressing it on the ballstud. 22 Check both shift cables to be sure they are connected properly at the transaxle. 23 Reinstall the shifter console, boot, and 21

Install

into place

the engine with the special support fixture

the gearshift knob (see illustration).

(see illustration). An alternative

24 Unscrew the lock pin from the selector housing, reinstall it with the longer end up and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

taken, to use a jack to support the engine

is,

if

4

mechanism functions

bracket at the transaxle (see Section

Manual transaxle

-

removal and

installation

Refer to

illustrations. 3.3, 3.6, 3.8,

3.10,3.12

and 3.20

Removal Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the hood (see Chapter 11), raise the front end of the vehicle and support 1

2

it

securely.

Attach a "lifting eye" to the number four cylinder exhaust manifold bolt and support

3

is

from below, under the oil pan. Use a wood block between the pan and jack head to spread the load and prevent damaging the

25 Check the shifter operation in First and Reverse and make sure the Reverse lock out properly.

care

pan.

Disconnect the gearshift linkage and 2).

Also

disconnect the clutch cable (see Chapter 8) and speedometer drive gear (see Section 5). Remove the wheels and the left splash 5 shield. Disconnect any exhaust components that would interfere with transaxle removal (see Chapter 4). Place a large drain pan (at least three 6 quarts capacity) under the transaxle and drain the fluid by removing the rear end cover (see illustration). 7 Place a jack under the transaxle to support it. Preferably, this should be a specially designed transaxle jack with safety chains. 8 Remove the clutch housing (transaxleto-engine) bolts (see illustration). Remove the left engine mount. 9

3.6

After removing the screws, carefully pry off the rear end cover with a screwdriver inserted in the notch

10

Unbolt the anti-rotation

link

1

Remove

Chapter 8. 12 Carefully

Upper clutch housing

bolt locations

3.10

illus-

the driveaxles as described pull

the transaxle

TRANSAXLE

3.8

(see

tration).

Disconnecting the anti-rotation

link

in

away from

7A

7A-6

Chapter 7 Part

the engine and lower

it

A Manual

transaxle

to the floor (see illus-

tration).

REAR END COVER

With the transaxle removed, the clutch components are now accessible and can be 13

In most cases, new clutch components should be routinely installed when the

OIL FEEDER

inspected. transaxle

is

removed (see Chapter

8).

Installation Note: Before

installing the transaxle, fabricate

two locating pins. Cut the heads off two proper-size bolts with a hacksaw and remove any burrs from the ends with a file or a grinder. Then use the hacksaw to cut slots in the ends of the locating pins so they can be unscrewed with a screwdriver and replaced with bolts.

14

removed,

If

install

nents (see Chapter

15

Install

3.20 Apply RTV sealant as shown (be sure to go around the bolt holes) when installing the rear end cover

Support the transaxle with a jack when removing it (note the safety chain) 3.12

the clutch

compo-

8).

the two locating pins

in

place of

the top two clutch housing bolts.

cult job for the do-it-yourselfer.

With the transaxle secured to the jack with a chain, raise it into position behind the engine, then carefully slide it forward, engag-

disassembly and reassembly of many small parts. Numerous clearances must be pre-

16

ing the input shaft with the clutch plate splines.

Do

not use excessive force to

the transaxle

-

if

hub

install

the input shaft does not slide

angle of the transaxle and/or turn the input shaft so the

into place, readjust the

so

it

is

splines

level

engage properly with the clutch

plate

hub.

17

Install

the clutch housing bolts. Tighten

the bolts securely (don't forget to remove the locating pins

18

Install

and replace them with bolts). link and tighten

the anti-rotation

the nut to the torque listed

in

this

Chapter's

Specifications.

19 it

Install

the

If

measured and,

engine mount and tighten

the transaxle rear cover has not been

installed prior to this point, clean the

cover

and mating surfaces thoroughly. Apply a 1/8inch bead of RTV sealant to the cover (see illustration) and install the cover and bolts. Fill the transaxle to the bottom of the fill 21 plug hole with the specified lubricant (see

Chapter 1). 22 Install the various items removed previously, referring to Chapter 8 for the driveaxles and Chapter 4 for information regarding the exhaust system. 23 Remove the jack(s) (and fixture, if used) supporting the engine and transaxle. 24 Make a final check that all wires, hoses, gearshift linkages (see Section 2), and the speedometer cable (see Section 5) have been connected. 25 Lower the front of the vehicle. 26 Connect the negative battery cable. Road test the vehicle for proper operation and check for leaks.

Manual transaxle overhaul general information

if

necessary, changed

with select-fit spacers and snap-rings. if

transaxle problems arise,

removed and

installed

make

Nevertheless,

how each

piece

comes

to other pieces

and

Before taking the transaxle apart for it will help if you have some idea what area of the transaxle is malfunctioning. Certain problems can be closely tied to specific areas in the transaxle, which can make component examination and replacement easier. Refer to the Troubleshooting Section at the repair,

manual

front of this

for information regarding

possible sources of trouble.

the job

if

is

not impossible for an

it's

mechanic

inexperienced

to

rebuild

Speedometer drive pinion removal and installation

a

-

the special tools are available and

done

in

a deliberate step-by-step

manner and nothing is overlooked. The tools necessary for an overhaul include internal and external snap-ring pliers, a bearing puller, a slide hammer, a set of pin punches, a dial indicator and possibly a hydraulic press.

In

addition, a large, sturdy

workbench and a vise or transaxle stand will be required. During disassembly of the transaxle,

Refer to

illustration

5.2

Removal The speedometer

1

is

located

in

drive pinion

assembly

the differential extension hous-

ing.

2

Remove

the retaining bolt and carefully

work the assembly up and out

of the exten-

sion housing (see illustration).

3

Remove

the retainer and separate the

pinion from the adapter.

SPEEDOMETER CABLE 'O"

RING

TRANSAXLE

4

Check the speedometer cable

sure that transaxle

fluid

to

has not leaked

make into

it.

the cable, remove the adapter and replace the O-ring with a new one. Reconnect the cable to the adapter. If

5

there

is

Install

fluid

a

new

in

O-ring to the outside of the

Connect the adapter to the pinion gear, making sure the retainer is securely retainer.

seated.

Installation 6 Make sure the mating surfaces of the adapter and the extension housing are clean, as any debris could cause misalignment of

-

the pinion.

7

Speedometer

drive

assembly

exploded view is

careful notes of

where it fits in relation what holds it in place. off,

rebuilt unit.

5.2

Overhauling a manual transaxle

As a

it can be by a competent do-ityourselfer, but overhaul be left to a transmission repair shop. Rebuilt transaxles may be available - check with your dealer parts department and auto parts stores. At any rate, the time and money involved in an overhaul is almost sure to exceed the cost of a

result,

transaxle left

securely.

20

cisely

involves the

It

a

diffi-

Attach the assembly to the transaxle, the retaining bolt and tighten it

install

securely.

7B-1

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle Contents Section

Section Automatic transaxle Band adjustment Diagnosis Fluid

and

-

-

removal and

See Chapter

general

Oil seal

1

2

See Chapter See Chapter

change check

filter

Fluid level

replacement Shift cable - check and adjustment Speedometer drive pinion - removal

8

installation

General information

1 1

Neutral start and back-up light switch

-

check

and replacement

and

1

3

-

5

See Chapter 7A

installation

check and adjustment (except A-604 and 41TE Ultradrive Transaxle mount - check and replacement Throttle cable

-

6 4

7

Specifications

Fluid type

and capacity

See Chapter

1

Band adjustment

See Chapter

1

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Driveplate-to-torque converter bolts

1984 and 1985 1986 on

40 55 25 105

Neutral start switch Throttle cable-to-transaxle bolt

A-604

in-lbs

Ultradrive

Output speed sensor

PRNDL

7B

20 25

switch

All vehicles covered in this manual come equipped with a four or five-speed manual

four-speed transaxle is conventional in that it uses hydraulic clutches to shift a planetary geartrain. What is unique to the A-604 or 41TE Ultradrive is the use of fully-adaptive controls. These adaptive controls are based

transaxle, a three-speed automatic, or a four-

on real-time feedback sensor information

speed

similar to electronic antilock braking system.

1

General information

automatic transaxle. All information on the automatic transaxles is included in this Part of Chapter 7. Information on the manual transaxle can be found in Part A of this Chapter. Ultradrive

electronic

The transaxle combines

into a

compact

Due to the complexity of the automatic transaxles and the need for special equipment and expertise to perform most service operations, this Chapter contains only general

diagnosis, seal replacement, adjust-

front-wheel-drive system a torque converter,

ments and removal and

attached to the crankshaft through a driveplate, an automatic transmission, and a dif-

dures.

ferential.

The A-604

or 41 TE Ultradrive electronic

installation

proce-

If the transaxle requires major work, it should be left to a dealer service department or an automatic transmission repair shop.

2

Diagnosis

-

general

Note: Automatic transaxle malfunctions may be caused by five general conditions: Poor engine performance, improper adjustments, hydraulic-mechanical, or electronic malfunctions. Diagnosis of these problems should always begin with a check of the easily repaired items:

fluid level

and condition

(see

adjustment and throttle cable adjustment (see Sections 5 and 6), Next, perform a road test to determine if the problem has been corrected or if more diagnosis is necessary. If the problem persists

Chapter

1),

shift linkage

after the preliminary tests

and

corrections are

completed, additional diagnosis should be

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

7B-2

done by a dealer service department or transmission repair shop. Refer to the Troubleshooting Section at the front of ual for transaxle

man-

this

cause must be determined before properly repaired.

a gasket

If

the sealing flange

is

it

can be

replaced but

is

bent, the

new gasket

won't stop the leak. The bent flange must be

problem diagnosis.

the casting

1

Make

tight

and

straightened.

Preliminary checks warm

Drive the vehicle to

1

the transaxle

to normal operating temperature.

Check the

2

Chapter a)

b)

fluid level

as described

in

1

the fluid level

If

add

unusually low,

is

be

expertise.

is

from

the transmission fluid (see Chapter

the fluid

If

is

foaming, drain

the transaxle, then

check

it

3).

and

for coolant in

the fluid or a high fluid level.

Check the engine

the engine

is

idle

speed. Note:

malfunctioning,

If

don 't proceed it has been

with the preliminary checks until

4

and runs normally. Check the throttle valve cable

dom

of

all in

tight,

for free-

(dents

in

to the valve

is

ating temperature.

5

Inspect the

Make

sure

it's

shift

linkage (see Section

5).

properly adjusted and oper-

ates smoothly.

Fluid leak diagnosis 6 ally.

Most

fluid

leaks are easy to locate visu-

Repair usually consist of replacing a seal If a leak is difficult to find, the fol-

or gasket.

lowing procedure 7

may

help.

Identify the fluid.

mission

fluid

Make

and not engine

(automatic transmission

sure oil

it's

trans-

or brake fluid

fluid is a

deep red

color).

8

Try to pinpoint the source of the leak.

Drive the vehicle several miles, then park it over a large sheet of cardboard. After a minute or two you should be able to locate the leak by determining the source of the fluid dripping onto the cardboard.

9

Make a

Oil seal

Refer

the pan

body

may

indi-

inside).

If

Seal leaks a transaxle seal is leaking, the fluid pressure may be too high, the vent may be plugged (these models are vented through the hollow dipstick), the seal bore If

level or

may be damaged, the seal itself may be damaged or improperly installed, the surface of the shaft protruding through the seal may be

replacement

-

If

any length of time transaxle

(six

pump

oil

months or

may

seal

seal

oil

and stop

leaking seal(s)

Oil

the leaking at the seals, the

have

will

to

fluid is evident,

check the 0-

pump seal To replace the transaxle

2

to

seal,

have Refer to Section 8 for

be removed.

3

If

tool

available,

will

use the factory seal removal

Screw the

(number C-3981).

remover

into the seal, then tighten the

draw the

factory tool

seal out (see illustration). is

seal

screw If

the

not available, use a hook-type

seal removal tool (available from automotive tool suppliers).

If

a hook-type tool

is

not avail-

able, try using a screwdriver or other prying

seal.

Be

moving around the

careful not to scratch the input shaft

or the seal bore.

4

If

available,

use the factory tools (numinstaller] and C-4171 [the

bers C-4193 [the

handle]) to install the

the opening

in

shaft

seals for leakage.

the seal

(lip

in until

it

new

seal.

Place the seal

then drive

side facing

in),

bottoms

the seal bore

in

(see illustration). If the factory tools are not available, use a small block of wood and a

Case leaks If

pump

transaxle removal.

damage. Also inspect the side gear

18

oil

the transaxle and torque converter

ring for oil

be replaced.

Note: The transaxle oil pump (front) seal can be replaced without removing the oil pump.

tool to pry the seal up,

transmission

add

leak. First

sealer.

converter housing.

sure the dipstick tube seal is in good condition and the tube is properly seated. Periodically check the area around the speedometer gear or sensor for leakage.

sitting for

longer), the

Old or dry transaxle seals shrink and cause leaks. Adding an oil sealer will swell the seal and sometimes stop it from leaking. If this does not restore the old transmission

to

Make

and 3.9

your vehicle has been

or a loose bearing may be causing excessive shaft movement. Check for a leak at the oil pump seal by removing the torque converter inspection plate and looking for trails of fluid or a puddle of fluid in the torque

damaged

If

is

the

fluid,

incorrect, the

is

to illustrations 3.3, 3.4, 3.8

Note:

1

may be plugged, the pan bolts may be too tight, the pan sealing flange may be warped, the sealing surface of the transaxle housing may be damaged, the gasket may be damaged or the transaxle casting may be cracked or porous. If sealant is used in place of a gasket, it may be the wrong sealant.

17

the

in

plugged.

good condition

the pan gasket is leaking, the fluid level or the fluid pressure may be too high,

16

coolant

is

sure

place (and none are miss-

the gasket

is flat

Make

repaired

movement. Adjust it if necessary (see Section 6). Note: The throttle valve cable may function properly when the engine is off and cold, but may malfunction once the engine is hot. Check it cold and at normal engine oper-

this condition occurs, the transaxle

If

overfilled, there

3 periodically.

the vent

refill

20

porous, the dipstick

damage

15

filler

plugged or the drain back holes are

and the pan cate

of the

opening

is

Check the pan and

comes out

Fluid

cooler hose fittings are

is

the bolts are ing)

oil

condition.

vent

referred to a

14

good

case

Gasket leaks

abnormally high, drain off the excess, then check the drained fluid for contamination by coolant. The presence of engine coolant in the autothe fluid level

sure the

in

Such problems must be transmission shop or a dealer

for external leaks. If

have to be

will

fixed without highly specialized tools

service department.

tor walls that separate the coolant

3

can't

and

enough to bring the level within the designated area on the dipstick, then check

matic transmission fluid indicates that a failure has occurred in the internal radia-

c)

Before attempting to repair a leak, check to make sure the following conditions are corrected or they may cause another leak. Note: Some of the following conditions 13

porous and

is

repaired or replaced.

the case

itself

appears to be leaking,

hammer PUMP

to carefully tap the seal into place,

OIL SEAL

careful visual inspection of the

suspected component and the areas immediately around it. Pay particular attention to gasket mating surfaces. A mirror is often helpful for finding leaks

in

areas that are hard

Transaxle oil seal removal using tool C-3981

3.3

to see.

pump

If the leak still can't be found, clean the 10 suspected area thoroughly with a degreaser

or solvent, then dry 1

it.

Drive the vehicle for several miles at nor-

mal operating temperature and varying speeds. After driving the vehicle, visually inspect the suspected component again. 12 Once the leak has been located, the

OIL

PUMP

7B-3

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

EXTENSION HOUSING

OIL SEAL

Transaxle

3.4

oil

pump

3.8

seal installation using tools C-4171

Extension housing seal removal using a screwdriver

andC-4193

Shift cable

-

check and

adjustment

Check

Extension housing

3.9

seal installation using 1

tools L-4520

and C-4171

each

Check shift

the operation of the transaxle

in

lever position (try to start the

engine in each position - the starter should operate in the Park and Neutral positions only). If operation is not as described, try adjusting the shift cable, as described below. If operation still is not correct, check the neutral start

HAMMER

switch (see Section

7).

Adjustment Refer to

tapping bottoms

the

all

in

way around

the seal

until

it

Transaxle mount

the seal bore.

check and

replacement

side driveaxie

oil

seal

requires removing the differential bearing

new

The extension housing

beyond

is

seal

the extension housing, which right side of

is

is

CLAMP.

the

located

in

shift

the engine compartment,

cable clamp bolt on the

4 Pull the shift lever all the detent (Park position) by hand. Keeping pressure on the 5

way

to the

shift

lever,

SCREW

7B GROMMET

Raise the vehicle and support on jackstands.

it

.SCREW

in

the transaxle.

Remove

This procedure is covered with the Engine mounts - check and replacement procedures in Chapter 2.

bolted to the

6 7

Working

is

arbor press. This procedure scope of the home mechanic. 5

3

needed) and pressseal into the retainer with an

retainer (a special tool

ing the

shift lever in park.

transaxle bracket (see illustration).

driveaxie) seal left

and 5.5

Place the

loosen the

Extension housing (right side Note: Replacing the

illustrations 5.3

2

BRAKE PEDAL BRACKET

securely

the right driveaxie (see Chapter

8).

Using a screwdriver or other prying tool, pry the seal out of the extension housing (see illustration).

GROMMET

8

and outside diameter

9

Coat the

new new

seal over the opening

lip

STEERING

COLUMN

TRANSAXLE

of the

seal with transmission fluid. Place the

Use a socket the same

(lip

side facing

in).

size as the outside

diameter of the seal or a wood block and carefully tap the socket or wood with a hammer, driving the seal into place.

If

available,

you should use the factory tool (numbers L4520 and C-4171 handle). With these tools drive the

new

seal into the extension housing

(see illustration).

5.3

Shift linkage

GROMMET ON CABLE MUST

BE

FIRMLY SEATED INTO DASH PANEL HOLE

7B-4

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle CARBURETOR ACCELERATOR PEDAL

jbKs>

'

^ Li

i*^|v-_ > jt^k

_>

..3r~

v

^

.-

TRANSAXLE

clamp

bolt (see illustra-

TRANSAXLE

THROTTLE LEVER

Tightening the shift cable bolt - note one hand keeping pressure on the shift lever (arrow) as the bolt is tightened

5.5

tighten the cable

Adjustment

Check the shift lever and try to start the engine in all the shift stops. The engine should start only when the lever is in the Park

9

or Neutral position.

6

Throttle cable

check and

-

adjustment (except A-604 and 41 TE Ultradrive)

1984 and 1985 models

into the

screw (see illustration) To ensure proper adjustment, the 5 bracket must be free to slide back-and-forth. If necessary, remove it and clean the slot and

ponents on All

sliding surfaces as well as the screw.

choke

Slide the bracket to the

engine) to the

cable.

Refer to

illustrations 6.4

and

6. 7.

left

limit of its travel.

(toward the

Release the

bracket and move the throttle lever all the to the right, against the internal stop, then tighten the adjustment bracket lock screw to 105 in-lb.

1

1986 and

The throttle pressure cable adjustment important to the proper operation of the transaxle. If the adjustment is long, the transaxle will shift early. If the adjustment is

7

casting. Tighten the lock

too short, the transaxle

(see illustration)

2

The

throttle

will shift late.

cable controls a valve

in

the

transaxle which governs the shift quality and

speed. If shifting is harsh or erratic, the throtcable should be adjusted.

tle

far

as possible (against the

and press the cross-lock down

not lubricate any of the linkage later

models Check the cable

action (connect the disconnected). Move the transaxle throttle cable all the way forward, release it slowly and make sure that it returns com11

if

pletely.

7

Neutral start and back-up light

later

Loosen the cable mounting bracket lock screw and position the bracket so the align-

ment tabs are

in

contact with the transaxle screw to 105 in-lb

Release the cross-lock on the cable assembly by pulling up on it. To ensure proper adjustment, the cable must be free to all

the

check and replacement

way toward

Refer to illustrations

the engine, against

1

1a, 7.

1b and

7.

The

neutral start switch

and back-up

located at the lower front edge of The switch the transaxle (see illustrations) controls the back-up light and the starting of is

.

the engine

in

Park and Neutral. The center

terminal of the switch grounds the starter

CONNECTOR

LOCK SCREW

7.

Check switch

8

slide

-

models

LOCK-UP SOLENOID ELECTRICAL

NEUTRAL/PARK SAFETY SWITCH

THROTTLE

CONTROL CABLE

THROTTLE PRESSURE CABLE

THROTTLE

CONTROL LEVER DIPSTICK HOLE

SELECTOR LEVER

h

y

7.1a 6.7

Throttle cable layout

-

1986 and

com-

models.

way

Check 1

released.

locked position.

Do

switch

is

is

the transaxle throttle control lever

internal stop)

engine at normal operating temperature. 4 Loosen the adjustment bracket lock

6

Note: The A-604 and 41 TE Ultradrive transmission does not have a transmission throttle

Move

clockwise as

The adjustment must be made with the

3

SELECTOR LEVER

the stop, after the cross-lock

tion).

6

Throttle cable layout- 1984 and 1985 models

6.4

later

models

Neutral start (safety) switch location automatic transaxle

three-speed

Chapter 7 Part B

7B-5

Automatic transaxle

SOLENOID ASSEMBLY SOUND COVER

WRENCH

NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH

PRNDL SWITCH Neutral start (safety) switch location - four-speed automatic transaxle (A-604 Ultradrive)

7.1b

7.7

(BLACK)/

Neutral start (safety) switch removal (A-604 Ultradrive)

SUPPORT FIXTURE

The weight

solenoid circuit

must be supported with the special as the transaxle is removed

of the engine

fixture or a jack

when

the transaxle

is in

Park

or Neutral, allowing the engine to start.

2

Prior to

checking the switch,

the gearshift linkage

Section

is

make

sure

on the new switch. 10 Check the fluid required (see Chapter

Check

for continuity

transaxle is in Reverse. No continushould exist between either outer terminal

the switch with a

new

any of the

fails

tests,

Unscrew the switch from the transaxle, using a box-end wrench to avoid damage to the switch housing (see illustration) shift lever

from Park to Neutral

while checking that the switch operating

gers are centered Install

torque

the

in

new

listed in this

and plug

in

8.5, 8.6, 8.7, 8. 10, 8. 12,

8.20 and 8.24

Disconnect the negative cable from the

On

support bracket. Disconnect the transaxle shift and throtposition cables and fasten them out of the

2.2L and 2.5L engines, remove the

way.

Support the engine from above with the 5 special fixture (see illustration), or from

below with a jack (place a block of wood between the jack and the engine oil pan to prevent damage). 6 Remove the upper bellhousing bolts (see illustration). 7 Remove the speedometer drive gear (see Chapter 7a, Section 5) and unplug all electrical connectors (see illustration).

8.7

7

9

removal

air injec-

pump

one.

6 Position a drain pan under the switch to catch the fluid released when the switch is removed. If not already done, unplug the electrical connector from the switch.

the

1

2

Replacement

Move

1 7,

-

battery.

and the case.

8

3 tion

Removal

when the

it

16a, 8. 16b, 8.

between the two

outer terminals. Continuity should exist only

If

as

1).

Automatic transaxle and installation

Refer to illustrations 8.

replace

fluid

tle

center terminal and the case. Continuity should exist only when the transaxle is in Park or Neutral.

5

and add

4

8

pump (see Chapter 6). Remove the air cleaner and the

air injection

level

properly adjusted (see

Unplug the connector and use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the

ity

Locations of the upper bellhousing bolts

5).

3

4

8.6

fin-

the opening. switch, tighten

Transaxle

left

to the

Chapter's Specifications

the connector. Repeat the checks

-

Ultradrive Transaxle cooler lines Eight-pin connector

Solenoid assembly cover PRNDL switch Neutral start switch Output speed sensor Input turbine

it

side

A-604 and 41TE

sensor

speed

7B

7B-6

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

ENGINE OIL PAN

8.12

8.10

8.16a

Left side splash shield removal

Raise the vehicle and support

8

it

securely

on jackstands. 10 Remove the under-vehicle splash shields (see illustration).

and

1

Remove

12

Mark the torque converter and

plate so they

1).

left

the torque converter cover.

can be reinstalled

in

the

Remove

made

will

to mark the torque converter and driveplate so they can be reattached in the same position

Locations of a cooler hose and the neutral start switch (A-604 Ultradrive)

for this pur-

help steady the

transaxle on the jack (see illustration). 21

Remove any

other chassis or suspen-

sion

components

that will interfere with the

transaxle removal.

drive-

same

position (see illustration).

13

preferably a special jack

pose. Safety chains

Drain the transaxle fluid (see Chapter

9

8.16b

Location of one of the cooler hoses (three-speed automatic)

Be sure

the torque converter-to-drive-

Remove the front and left engine mounts and the engine mount bracket on the front crossmember (see Chapter 2). 23 Remove the remaining bolts securing 22

plate bolts. Turn the crankshaft with a large

wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt to gain access to each of the driveplate bolts. 14 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5). 1

Remove

16

Disconnect the

the driveaxles (see Chapter fluid

8).

cooler hoses at the

them (see illustrations). Loosen the sway bar bushing bolts, then unbolt the ends from the lower control arms and pull the sway bar down out of the way

transaxle and plug 1

7

Removing the 8.17 sway bar mount bolts

(see illustration). 18 On models so equipped, disconnect the

vacuum 19 will

hose(s).

Remove any exhaust components interfere with the transaxle

that

removal (see

Chapter 4). 20 Support the transaxle with a jack

SWAY BAR -

the transaxle to the engine.

24 Move the transaxle back to disengage it from the engine block dowel pins. You may have to use a prybar or a large screwdriver to pry the transaxle from the engine (see illustration). Note: Secure the torque converter to the transaxle with wire from two bolt holes 1 80-degrees apart so it won't fall out during removal.

25

Lower the transaxle from the

vehicle.

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

7B-7

DIFFERENTIAL

COVER

^

__ TRANSAXLE

8.20

1/

30

Installation 26

Prior to

installation,

torque converter hub

is

make

sure the

securely engaged

With the transaxle secured to the jack and the torque converter secured to the it

into position.

Turn the torque converter to

the holes

in

line

up with

the driveplate. Line up the marks

you made on the torque converter and drive-

until

Move

the transaxle forward carefully the dowel pins and transaxle housing

are engaged.

them

this

the torque converter-to-driveplate

torque

listed in

Chapter's Specifications.

Specifications.

Remove

the

jack

supporting

the

transaxle.

35 36

Install

the starter motor (see Chapter

Connect

the

37

Connect the

shift

and

throttle valve link-

vacuum

38 39

the electrical connectors.

Attach

all

Install

the torque converter cover and

splash shields.

32 Install the engine mounts and bracket. 33 Install the suspension and chassis components that were removed. Tighten the bolts and nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's 34

away

ages.

securely.

bolts. Tighten the bolts to the

plate.

29

Install

to pry the transaxle

from the engine

the transaxle housing-to-engine

bolts. Tighten

31

27

transaxle, raise

Install

Use a large screwdriver

in

the pump.

28

8.24

Transaxle jack positioning (note the safety chain)

hose(s)

5). (if

40

Install the driveaxles (see Chapter 8). Connect the speedometer cable. 42 Connect any exhaust components that were removed or disconnected. 43 Lower the vehicle. 44 Adjust the shift cable (see Section 5). 45 Fill the transaxle with transmission fluid (see Chapter 1), run the vehicle and check for

41

leaks.

equipped).

7B

7B-8

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

Notes

8-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles Contents Section Clutch cable

-

removal and

Clutch components Clutch

-

installation

removal, inspection and installation

description and check

-

Clutch release bearing and release fork

and

-

Constant velocity (CV) Constant velocity (CV) and reassembly

Driveaxle boot check

5

Driveaxle

2

Driveaxles

-

Driveaxles

removal and installation removal and installation

removal 4

installation joint

boots - replacement - disassembly, inspection

Section

See Chapter See Chapter

3

10

joints

Flywheel

oil

-

seal replacement

general information and inspection

-

General information Intermediate shaft - removal and installation

1

7

6 7

See Chapter 2 1

8

9

Specifications

Clutch disc lining thickness (minimum)

1/32-inch

Driveaxle dimensions

inch

1984 G.K.N. 21.3 to 21.6 10.6 to 11.2

542 270

to

Right

20.5 to 20.9 10.0 to 10.6

520 255

to

Left

542 270

to

520 255

to

542 270

to

520 255

to

542 238

to

520 223

to

Right Left

to

549 285

A.C.I

to

532 270

1985 G.K.N. Right

21.3 to 21.6

Left

10.6 to 11.9

to

449 285

A.C.I.

Right

20.5 to 20.9

Left

10.0 to 10.6

to

532 270

1986 G.K.N. Right

21.3 to 21.6

Left

10.6 to 11.2

to

549 285

Citroen

Right

20.5 to 20.9

Left

10.0 to 10.6

to

532 270

1987

2.2Land2.6L G.K.N. Right

21.3 to 21.6

Left

9.4 to 10.0

to

549 253

Citroen

Right

20.5 to 20.9

Left

8.8 to 9.4

2.5L and 3.0L

Not available

to

532 238

8

8-2

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

Driveaxle dimensions (continued)

inch

1988 (G.K.N.) Right

20.9 to 21.2

Left

9.6 to 9.9

530 243

to

530 243 243

to

530 243

to

243 243

to 251

520 228

to

476 184

to

538

to 251

1989 2.5L non-turbo and 3.0L (G.K.N.) Right

20.9 to 21.2

Left

9.6 to 9.9

2.5L turbo (G.K.N.)

(right

and

9.6 to 9.9

left)

538

to 251 to 251

1990 3.0L, 2.5L non-turbo

and 2.5L turbo with automatic transaxle

(G.K.N.)

Right

20.9 to 21.2

Left

9.6 to 9.9

538

to 251

3.3L and 2.5L turbo with manual transaxle (G.K.N.) Right

9.6 to 9.9

Left

9.6 to 9.9

to 251

1991 Right

20.5 to 20.9

Left

9.0 to 9.4

to

530 238

1992 3.0L and 3.3L Right

18.7 to 19.1

Left

7.2 to 7.6

to

486 194

2.5L with manual transaxle Right

18.7 to 19.1

Left

8.4 to 8.8

476 213

to

to

486 223

2.5L with automatic transaxle Right

18.9 to 19.3

Left

7.3 to 7.7

480 185

to to

490 195

1993 3.0L and 3.3L Right

18.7 to 19.1

Left

7.2 to 7.6

476 184

to

476 209

to

to

486 194

2.5L with manual transaxle Right

18.7 to 19.1

Left

8.2 to 8.6

to

486 220

2.5L with automatic transaxle Right

18.7 to 19.1

Left

7.3 to 7.7

1994 and

476 185

to to

486 195

later

3.0L, 3.3L

and 3.8L

Right

18.7 to 19.1 7.2 to 7.6

476 184

to

Left

to

486 194

Right

18.7 to 19.1

476

to

486

Left

7.2 to 7.6

184 to 194

Right

18.7 to 19.1

476

Left

7.3 to 7.7

185 to 195

2.5L with manual transaxle

2.5L with automatic transaxle

Torque specifications

Ft-ibs

Clutch pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts

21

Intermediate shaft bearing-to-bracket screws

21

Intermediate shaft bracket-to-engine block screws

40 180

Driveaxle nut

General information The information in this Chapter deals components from the rear of the

with the

engine to the front

wheels (except for covered in the previChapter, the compo-

(drive)

the transaxle, which

is

ous Chapter). In this nents are grouped

into

two categories:

Clutch and driveaxles. Separate Sections within this Chapter offer general information,

checks and repair procedures nents in each of the two groups.

for

2

to

486

Clutch

-

description and check

compo-

Warning: Since nearly all the procedures included in this Chapter involve working under the vehicle, make sure it's securely supported on sturdy jackstands or on a hoist where it can be easily raised and lowered.

1 All vehicles with a manual transaxle have a single dry plate, diaphragm springtype clutch. The clutch disc has a splined hub which allows it to slide along the splines of the transaxle input shaft or mainshaft. The

clutch disc

is

held

in

place against the

fly-

8-3

Clutch and driveaxles

Chapter 8

NUT AND WASHER RETAINER

^-

.CLIP

BUMPER

CABLE ASSEMBLY

FORWARD

GROMMET VIEW

IN DIRECTION

OF ARROW Z

Clutch cable and adjuster details

3.2

wheel by the pressure plate springs. During disengagement (when shifting gears for example), the clutch pedal is depressed, which operates a cable, actuating the release lever so the release bearing or plate pushes on the pressure plate springs, disengaging

clutch

won

release completely, making

't

gear engagement b)

or impossible.

difficult

To check clutch "spin-down

the clutch.

The release mechanism incorporates a which compensates for clutch disc wear (see illustration 3.2). A spring in the clutch pedal arm maintains tension on the cable and the adjuster pivot grabs

2

the transaxle into Reverse.

self-adjusting device

noise should be heard.

the positioner adjuster

when

the pedal

would most c)

is

depressed and the clutch is released. Consequently, the slack is always taken up in the cable, making adjustment unnecessary.

When

3

pressure

is

applied to the pedal to

likely

A

"

run

No

grinding

grinding noise

indicate a

problem

in

1/2-inch

from

transaxle

between

the

floor.

If

Shift

the

and Reverse

First

the shift

is

failure is indicated, is

rough,

or as

out of adjust-

Visually inspect the pivot

bushing at the

A

The

check should be of the clutch adjustment (if applicable). If

first

cable

most likely caused by a faulty clutch Check the cable where it enters the housing for frayed wires, rust and

is

cable.

other signs of corrosion.

If it

looks good,

lubricate the cable with penetrating

there's too

much

slack

in

the cable, the

disengage

Pull the

cable through the firewall to

it.

7

When

ends

to the pedal

new cable, hook the and transmission lever first, on the housing and engage the installing the

then pull cable in the retainer bracket. Don't forget to install

the

clip.

Operate the pedal several times to allow

the self-adjuster in

mechanism

to take

up slack

the cable.

8

Clutch cable

-

is

removal and

installation

Refer to

4

Clutch release bearing and release fork - removal and installation

oil. If

pedal operation improves, the cable worn out and should be replaced.

illustration 3.2

Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the 1

vehicle,

clutch pedal that's difficult to operate

problems. a)

Working inside the

6

8

top of the clutch pedal to make sure there's no binding or excessive play.

3

lower end of the cable out of the

the transmission mount.

in

remove

the clutch pedal approximately

the release lever.

Other than to replace components with 5 obvious damage, some preliminary checks should be performed to diagnose clutch

Pull the

and hold

ment.

is sometimes called a throwout bearand the release fork is sometimes called

4

the cable end from the clutch pedal.

stated above, the cable

bearing

tration 3.2).

5

complete clutch release,

component

clutch plate or driven plate, the clutch release

Remove the clutch cable retainer and disengage the cable end from the clutch release lever on the transmission (see illus-

run the engine (with the parking brake applied to prevent vehicle movement)

gear several times.

e)

illustration).

3

To check

for

the clip and disengage the

cable housing from the retainer bracket (see

grommet

end of the release lever, which turns a shaft connected to the clutch release fork. As the fork pivots, the release bearing pushes against the fingers of the diaphragm springs in the pressure plate assembly, which in turn disengages the clutch plate. 4 Terminology can be a problem when discussing the clutch components because common names are in some cases different from those used by the manufacturer. For example, the clutch disc is also called the

d)

Remove

2

the pressure plate or the clutch disc.

release the clutch, the cable pulls against the

ing

time,

speed with the transaxle in Neutral (clutch pedal up engaged). Disengage the clutch (pedal down), wait several seconds and shift the engine at normal idle

parking brake and block the rear wheels so roll off the stands.

the vehicle can't

Refer to

illustrations 4.2, 4.4a,

4.4b and 4.4c

Warning: Dust produced by clutch wear and deposited on clutch components may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air or inhale any of it. DO NOT use gasoline or petroleumbased solvents to clean off the dust. Brake system cleaner should be used to flush the dust into a drain pan. After the clutch components are wiped clean with rags, dispose of

8-4

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

Before you remove the release how it's retained by the spring clip, then slide it off the input shaft

To remove the release

4.4a

4.2

bearing, note

fork, pry off this E-clip,

the contaminated rags sealed, 1

marked

Remove

shaft .

and

4.4b

and cleaner

in

a

the transaxle (see Chapter

7,

Disengage the ends of the spring and detach the release bearing from the

clip

fork

(see illustration). 3 Hold the center of the bearing and turn the outer portion while applying pressure.

a clean rag. Don't immerse the bear-

solvent

-

it's

sealed for

life

and would

be ruined by the solvent. 4 4.4c

.

.

.

slide off the fork

and remove

the shaft

Check the

release fork ends for exces-

the fork must be replaced, remove the E-clip from the clutch release shaft, slide the shaft out of the clutch housing sive wear.

the bushing,

.

to

.

fork (see illustrations).

the shaft bushings are worn, replace

If

them. Lubricate the release shaft bushings 6 with high-temperature grease, slide the shaft part way into the housing and hold the fork in position. Continue to slide the shaft into place, through the fork, until it seats in the inner bushing.

If it

doesn't turn smoothly or if it's noisy, install a new one. It's a good idea to replace it anyway, when you consider the time and effort spent on removing the transaxle. However, if you elect to reinstall the old bearing, wipe it in

enough

slide the shaft out far

.

and remove the 5

container.

Part A).

ing

.

pull off

2

off with

.

.

7

Install

Make

sure

the E-clip

in

the shaft groove.

seated correctly. 8 Lubricate the release fork ends with a small amount of high-temperature grease (don't

it's

overdo

it).

ing bore with the

9

Install

Lubricate the release bear-

same

grease.

the release bearing on the fork.

Make sure the wire retainer engaged.

is

properly

the transaxle.

1

Install

5

Clutch components - removal, inspection and installation

If

UPPER COVER

Warning: Dust produced by clutch wear and deposited on clutch components may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air or inhale

FLYWHEEL ASSEMBLY

COVER DOWEL

ENGINE

SCREW

AND WASHER ASSEMBLY

5.6

An exploded view

of the clutch

components CLUTCH COVER

AND

PRESSURE PLATE ASSEMBLY

8-5

Clutch and driveaxles

Chapter 8

XJ>

NORMAL FINGER WEAR

EXCESSIVE

WEAR

^»H The clutch disc

EXCESSIVE FINGER WEAR

will wear down in use secure the lining and will damage the pressure plate or flywheel surface if allowed to contact it

Lining Rivets

-

2 3

Marks

-

1

-

"flywheel side" or something similar

DO NOT use gasoline

any of it.

or petroleum-

based solvents to clean off the system cleaner should be used

dust.

5.1

Brake

m&

Replace the pressure

1

excessive wear or damage is noted

plate

to flush the

if

dust into a drain pan. After the clutch components are wiped clean with rags, dispose of the contaminated rags and cleaner in a

marked

sealed,

5

Removal Refer to

illustration

components is norby removing the

accomplished

mally

in the vehicle. Of being removed for major overhaul, then check the clutch for wear and replace worn components as necessary. However, the relatively low cost of the clutch components, compared to the time and trouble spent gaining access to them, warrants their replacement anytime the engine or transaxle is removed (unless they're new or in near perfect condition). The following procedures are based on the assumption the engine will stay in place. 2 Referring to Chapter 7, Part A, remove the transaxle from the vehicle. Support the engine while the transaxle is out. Preferably, an engine hoist should be used to support it from above. However, if a jack is used underneath the engine, make sure a piece of wood

transaxle, leaving the engine

course,

is

if

the engine

is

positioned between the jack and

oil

spread the load. Caution: The pick-up oil

pump

pan.

If

is

the

pan

bent or distorted starvation could occur. is

in

to

for the

very close to the bottom of the

pan

Carefully inspect the flywheel

and pres-

sure plate for indexing marks. The marks are

5.6 Access to the clutch

1

BROKEN OR BENT FINGERS

container.

oil

any way,

engine oil 3 The clutch release fork and release bearing can remain attached to the transaxle housing (see Section 4 for the procedures to follow when checking and replacing the release bearing and related components). 4 To support the clutch disc during removal, install a clutch alignment tool through the clutch disc hub.

usually an X, an

O

or a white letter.

If

they

be found, scribe marks yourself so the pressure plate and flywheel will be in the

can't

same 6

alignment during

installation.

Loosen the pressure plate-to-flywheel

bolts a

a time, following a criss-cross spring pressure is relieved. Hold the pressure plate in place and remove the bolts, then detach the pressure plate and little

at

pattern, until

all

clutch disc (see illustration).

to

Chapter 2

installation

for the flywheel

removal and

procedure.

Inspect the lining on the clutch disc. There should be at least 1/16-inch of lining above the rivet heads. Check for loose rivets, distortion, cracks, broken springs and other obvious damage (see illustration). As men-

9

tioned above, ordinarily the clutch disc tinely replaced,

so

if

in

doubt about

its

is

rou-

condi-

replace it with a new one. 10 The release bearing should also be replaced along with the clutch disc (see Sec-

tion,

tion 4).

Inspection Refer to

illustrations 5.9

and

5.

1

when a problem occurs in the can be attributed to wear of the clutch disc. However, all components should be inspected at this time. Note: If the clutch components are contaminated with oil, there will be shiny, black, glazed spots on the clutch disc lining, which will cause the clutch 7

Ordinarily,

clutch,

it

Replacing clutch components won't completely solve the problem - be sure to check the crankshaft rear oil seal and the transaxle input shaft! mainshaft seal for leaks. If it looks like a seal is leaking, be sure to install a new one to avoid the same problem with a new clutch. Inspect the flywheel for cracks, heat 8 checking, grooves and other obvious defects. If the imperfections are slight, a machine shop can machine the surface flat and smooth, which is highly recommended regardless of the surface appearance. Refer to slip.

11 Check the machined surfaces and the diaphragm spring fingers of the pressure

plate (see illustration).

If

the surface

is

scored or otherwise damaged, replace the pressure plate. Also check for obvious damage, distortion, cracks, etc. Light glazing can be removed with emery cloth. If the pressure plate must be replaced, new and factoryrebuilt units are available.

Installation Refer to

illustration 5.

13

Before installation, clean the flywheel and pressure plate machined surfaces with lacquer thinner, acetone or brake system cleaner. It's important to keep these sur12

faces, free of

and the clutch disc lining, clean and oil or grease. Handle the parts only

with clean hands.

13

Position the clutch disc and pressure

plate against the flywheel with the clutch held in

place with an alignment tool (see illustra-

8

8-6

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles Make sure it's installed properly (most replacement clutch plates will be marked "flywheel side" or something similar - if it's not marked, install the clutch disc with the damper springs toward the transaxle). 14 Tighten the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts only finger tight, working around the pressure plate. 15 Center the clutch disc by ensuring the alignment tool extends through the splined hub and into the pocket in the crankshaft. Wiggle the tool up, down or side-to-side as

tion).

PRESSURE PLATE

5

^ DOWELS

5.13

Use an alignment

tool to center the clutch disc, then tighten the

pressure plate bolts

needed

to center the disc. Tighten the pres-

sure plate-to-flywheel bolts a

little

at a time,

working in a criss-cross pattern to prevent cover distortion. After all the bolts are snug, tighten

them

to the torque listed

ter's Specifications.

Remove

Chap-

in this

the alignment

tool.

Using high-temperature grease,

16

lubri-

cate the release bearing (refer to Section 4). Also apply a light coat of grease on the release lever contact areas and the transaxle

EXPOSED BOOT RETENTION COLLAR

Use this chart to identify the brand of driveaxles used

6.4

on your

vehicle:

1

ACI

2

GKN ("open

tulip"

-

three-piece construction)

3

GKN ("closed tulip" -

one-piece round

extrusion)

4

WELDED CONSTRUCTION

•ANGLE INNER BOOT

v

OUTER BOOT

Citroen

7.2 If there's no assistant handy to apply the brakes while you unscrew the hub nut, use a large screwdriver or prybar to immobilize the hub

housing toward the transaxle, keeping the fully seated in the differential side

17 Install the clutch release bearing as described in Section 4. 18 Install the transaxle and all components removed previously. Tighten all fasteners to the proper torque specifications.

gears.

Driveaxles

-

general information

and inspection

General information illustration 6.4

Power from the engine passes through the clutch and transaxle to the front wheels via two driveaxles. Most models have unequal length driveaxles; turbocharged and 3.3L models use equal-length driveaxles. On these models, the inner end of the right driveaxle is connected to an intermediate shaft; the point at which the two are connected is supported by a bearing and bracket. The inner end of the intermediate shaft is connected to the differential side gear via a Cardan type joint. Each driveaxle assembly consists of three parts:

A

"tripod" type inner

"Rzeppa" type outer CV

joint

CV

joint,

CV

joint

housings on both equal and unequal length driveaxles have a splined stub axle which engages with the front hub and is retained by a large nut. Inner CV joint housings have a short, splined stub axle which engages with the differential side gear (the CV joint housing for the right driveaxle on equal length sys-

tems engages with the intermediate

shaft.

On

some

driveaxles, a circlip

tip of

the stub axle expands into a groove

in

a groove near the in

the bore of the side gear or intermediate shaft

when the stub

axle

is

properly seated, locking

CV joint to the side gear or intermediate shaft. On other driveaxles, the inner splined end of the CV

the inner end of the tripod

housing

inside the

CV

is

held

joint

place by a spring housing which pushes the in

accelerating from a coasting condition or vibration at

their

time)

replace

Refer to

it.

The vehicles covered by

manual can be equipped with driveaxles manufactured by

GKN

this

or Citroen (see illustration).

after referring to the illustration, you're

If,

still

unable to determine the manufacturer, take the driveaxle assembly with you when buying boots or CV joint parts. Don't try to substitute one brand of driveaxle for another or swap parts from one brand to another.

wear

for

in

the

CV

joints

and

driveaxle shafts, grasp each axle (one at a

range of travel, ball bearings inside the CV housings allow them to operate at various lengths and angles. These bearings must be lubricated with special grease and protected by rubber boots. You should periodically inspect these boots for tears and/or grease leaking out. Torn boots allow dirt and moisture to enter the CV joints; if not fixed, a simple tear accelerates bearing wear and eventually causes premature failure. The inner CV joint can be rebuilt if necessary; the outer CV cannot - if it fails, you'll have to

joint

ACI,

highway speeds.

To check

As the driveaxles move through

and rotate

both directions while housings. Watch for movement, indicating worn splines or sloppy CV joints. Also, check the driveaxle shafts for cracks and distortion.

CV

holding the

7

it

in

joint

Driveaxles

-

removal and

installation

Removal illustrations 7.2,

7.

7

and

7.8

Remove the wheel cover (or hub cover). Remove the front hub nut cotter pin, nut lock and wave washer, if equipped. With the 1

weight of the vehicle on the wheels, loosen the hub nut.

Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the and support securely on jackstands (apply the parking brake and 2

front of the vehicle

block the rear wheels).

it

Remove

the lug nuts,

the front wheel, the hub nut and the big

Inspection

washer (see

Periodically, inspect the

a

and an axle

shaft which connects the two. Outer

joint

7.8

the driveaxle

stub axle

Refer to

Pry the inner end of the the CV joint out of the differential side gears with a large screwdriver or prybar

Swing the steering knuckle away from the transaxle and pull out

7.7

input shaft.

6

8-7

Clutch and driveaxles

Chapter 8

boots for leaks,

damage and deterioration (see Chapter 1). Replace damaged CV joint boots immediately or the CV joints may be damaged. You must remove the driveaxle (see Section

7) to

replace the boots. Some auto parts stores carry a convenient alternative: "Split-type"

replacement boots can be installed without removing the driveaxle from the vehicle. This design is handy for emergency repairs when you're traveling, but

it's

not a substitute for

one-piece boots. When a boot is torn, you must remove the driveaxle and disassemble, clean and inspect the CV joint to make sure no moisture and dirt - which greatly accelerate bearing wear - have already caused damage.

The most common symptom

damaged CV is

of

worn or

besides lubricant leaks, a clicking noise in turns, a clunk when joints,

illustration).

you're removing the right driveaxle from a vehicle with unequal length driveaxles, remove the speedometer drive gear (see Chapter 7) prior to removing the right axle. 4 Remove the steering knuckle-to3

If

clamp bolt (see Chapter 10). Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the suspension arm to allow enough movement to separate the balljoint (see Chapter 10). 6 Pry the lower balljoint stud out of the steering knuckle (see Chapter 10). Grasp the outer CV joint and the steer7 ing knuckle and pull the steering knuckle out to separate the driveaxle from the hub (see balljoint

5

careful not to damage the Caution: Don't pry on or damage the wear sleeve on the CV joint when separating it from the hub. Pry the inner end of the CV joint out of 8 the differential (or intermediate shaft) with a illustration).

CV

joint boot.

Be

8

8-8

Clutch and driveaxles

Chapter 8

bled, the front

Measure the distance between the arrows to verify that the driveaxle is the correct length 7.22

OUTBOARD BOOT

INBOARD BOOT

V —

TAPE LOCATION

when

installed

~-H

wheels must be properly

aligned and pointing straight ahead and the

weight of the vehicle must be on

measurement with the length The driveaxles, when in place, secure the hub bearing assemblies. If the vehicle must be supported or moved on the front wheels while the driveaxles are out, install bolts through the

them

to

hubs and thread nuts onto

keep the bearings from loosening.

1

5

Reattach the stabilizer bar (see Chapter

10).

16 Install the speedometer drive gear (see Chapter 7). 17 Install the wheels and hand tighten the wheel lug nuts. Install the spacer washer and hub nut and tighten the nut securely (don't try to tighten

Installation 10

Prior to

18

installation,

clean the wear

sleeve on the driveaxle outer

CV joint and

the

it

to the specified torque yet).

lug nuts to the torque listed

in

the Chapter

1

Specifications.

with grease. Apply a 1/4-inch

19 Tighten the driveaxle hub nut to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications, then install the wave washer, nut lock and a

to the

new

seal

in

the hub. Lubricate the entire circum-

ference of the seal

11

lip

and

fill

the seal cavity

bead of grease wear sleeve seal contact area as well. On driveaxles equipped with circlips,

install

new

circlips in the inner

CV

joint shaft

Refer to

20

13

Push the steering knuckle out and

the outer splined shaft of the

CV joint

insert

into the

hub.

14

Insert the balljoint stud into the steering

knuckle,

install

the clamp bolt and tighten

to the torque listed in the

it

Chapter 10 Specifi-

cations.

illustration

Later

mounts with

23

the dimensions aren't as specified, the

can be loosened and the engine

bolts

repositioned to obtain the specified driveaxle

moved enough range of the slotted engine mounts, check for damaged or distorted support brackets and side rails. 24 If the engine is moved, see Chapter 7 and adjust the shift linkage. within

If

the engine can't be

the

Intermediate shaft

vehicles

have If

the

verti-

on the right or left upper engine mounts have been loosened for any reason, or if the vehicle has been damaged structurally at the front end, driveaxle length must be checked/corrected. A driveaxle that's cal bolts

shorter than required

will result in

objection-

able noise, while a driveaxle that's longer

may result in damage. The vehicle must be completely assem-

than necessary

Removal Refer to 1

tion

illustration 8.3

Remove

the right driveaxle (see Sec-

7).

Remove the speedometer drive gear from the transaxle extension housing (see Chapter 7). 3 Remove the bearing bracket mounting screws (see illustration). 4 Place a drain pan underneath the right side of the transaxle to catch any fluid/lubri2

SCREW

BRACKET & 2.5L)

(2.2

SEAL SEAL RETAINER

BUSHING RETAINER

BRACKET (3.3L)

BUSHING RETAINER

BUSHING

AND

removal and

engine

slotted holes that allow for side-

SEAL

-

installation

BUSHING AND ROLLERS

8.3

If

mount

7.22

model

to-side positioning of the engine.

21

6.4 to identify the driveaxle type).

8

Driveaxle position check

Apply a small amount of multi-purpose grease to the splines at each end of the driveaxle. Place the driveaxle in position and carefully insert the inner end of the shaft into the transaxle.

the

listed in this

cotter pin.

grooves.

12

o'clock

Chapter's Specifications. Note that the required dimension varies with transaxle type and driveaxle manufacturer (see illustration

lengths.

Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel

(six

Compare

position) (see illustration). large screwdriver or prybar (see illustration).

four

Using a tape measure, check the dis22 tance from the inner edge of the outboard boot to the inner edge of the inboard boot on both driveaxles. Take the measurement at the lower edge of the driveaxles

9

all

wheels.

ROLLERS

Exploded view of the intermediate shaft assembly

8-9

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

HOUSING (RIGHT SIDE

CROSS (DRIVER)

HOUSING

SHOWN)

(OUTER)

DTTER PIN

SPRING WASHER SPRING

TRIPOD

NUT LOCK 9.4

An exploded view

of a typical

driveaxle assembly

INTERCONNECTING SHAFT

cant that leaks out during removal of the intermediate shaft. Grasp the intermediate shaft securely with both hands and pull it out of the transaxle.

Installation 5

Place the intermediate shaft and bearing

assembly

in

position

and

carefully insert the

splined stub axle into the transaxle.

Place the bearing bracket in position, the bracket mounting screws and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chap6

install

TRIPOD RETAINING TABS

ter's Specifications.

Lubricate the splines inside the pilot bore of the intermediate shaft with a liberal amount of multi-purpose grease. 8 Install the right driveaxle (see Section 7). 9 Check and, if necessary, add the rec7

G.K.N.

it

type of transaxle fluid/lubricant to up to the proper level (see Chapter 1).

carefully pry

bearing roller

with no lubricant

9

1

Constant velocity (CV) joints disassembly, inspection and reassembly Obtain a

CV joint

-

rebuild or replacement

due

to a

damaged

tion).

boot,

it

should be disassembled and inspected.

CV joint

Refer to

illustrations 9.4, 9.5, 9.6, 9.7, 9.9a,

9.22a, 9.22b, 9.22c

push the housThe retainer ring can also

retention spring

ing off the tripod.

be carefully cut

off

will

the housing.

New

rings

and can be installed by rolling the edge into the machined groove in the housing with a hammer and punch.

9.9b, 9.13,9.15, 9.20,

Remove

The

are included

Inner

kit.

Remove

To separate the tripod from the 9.6 housing of a GKN inner CV joint, bend up the retaining tabs with a pair of pliers

tripod from the

housing of a Citroen inner CV joint, up on the retainer at each

ommended bring

To separate the

9.5

and 9.23

6

the clamps and slide the boot

On GKN

in

the rebuild

kit

driveaxles, the retaining tabs

the driveaxles (see Section 7) and identify which types of CV joints are

4

installed (see Section 6).

tration).

3

Place one of the driveaxles in a vise, wood blocks to protect it from the vise jaws. If the CV joint has been operating properly with no noise or vibration, replace the boot as described in Section 10. If the CV joint is badly worn or has run for some time

involved, separate the tripod from the hous-

with a pair of pliers (see illustration). Sup-

using

ing as follows.

port the housing as the retention spring pushes it off the tripod. This will prevent the housing from reaching an unacceptable angle and keep the tripod rollers from being

2

back

5

access to the tripod (see illusDepending on the type of CV joint

to gain

Citroen

retainer ring

driveaxles

which

is

utilize

rolled into

a

tripod

a groove

in

the housing. Deform the retainer ring slightly at

each

roller with

a screwdriver (see illustra-

are an integral part of the housing cover.

Hold the housing and

lightly

compress the up

retention spring while bending the tabs

pulled from the tripod studs.

8

8-10

Clutch and driveaxles

Chapter 8 BOOT

RETAINING COLLAR

/X'TRIPOD RETAINING

TABS

To separate the tripod from the housing of an ACI inner CV joint,

9.7

9.9a

compress the spring and bend each tab back with pliers

The

tripod

by a snap-ring

-

is

held on the axleshaft

remove

it

with a pair of

9.9b

Secure the bearings with tape and

drive the tripod off the shaft with a brass

punch and a hammer

snap-ring pliers

CHAMFERED END

NON-CHAMFERED END TRIPOD RETAINING RING GROOVE

9.15

On

9.13

Citroen driveaxles, use adjustable pliers to detach the

CV joint

retainer ring

7 On ACI driveaxles, the tripod retaining tabs are part of the boot retaining collar, which is staked in place. Compress the retaining spring lightly while bending the tabs back with a pair of pliers (see illustration). Be sure to support the housing as the spring

pushes

it

off

pod, hold the prevent the

secure the

inner

the housing from the

the tripod

is

When assembling the CV joint, make sure

the spring is seated securely in the spring pocket and the spring cup is installed on the outer end

tri-

place on the studs to and needle bearings from

rollers in

Remove

9

9.20

rollers in

rollers

falling. After

SPRING CUP

the tripod.

When removing

8

On GKN and ACI CV joints, the non-chamfered end of the must face out when installed on the driveaxle splines

tripod

out of the housing,

place with tape.

the snap-ring (see illustration)

and use a brass punch to drive the bearing and tripod assembly off the splined shaft (see illustration). 1 Clean the grease from the tripod assembly.

Check

for

score marks, wear, corrosion

13

Place the housing

in

a vise and remove

the retainer ring with a pair of pliers (see illustration).

new boot on

and excessive play. Replace any damaged or worn components.

14

Install

15

On GKN and ACI

Inspect the inner splined area of the bearing tripod for wear and damage. Replace parts as necessary. 12 Remove all old grease from the housing.

tripod onto the shaft with the

Inspect the housing splines,

tripods that can be installed with either

11

the shaft for sion.

ball

races,

cup and the spherical end of wear, damage, nicks and corro-

spring, spring

Replace parts as necessary.

the

end facing out (next

the axle.

driveaxles, slide the

non-chamfered

to the snap-ring groove)

(see illustration). 16 Citroen driveaxles are equipped with

end

out (both ends are the same). Be sure to install the wire ring tripod retainer on the interconnecting shaft before sliding the tripod

onto the shaft. 17 If necessary, use a section of pipe or a socket and hammer to carefully tap the tripod onto the shaft until it just clears the snap-ring groove.

18

Install

it's

seated

a in

On GKN

19

new snap-ring and make sure the groove. driveaxles, distribute

two

of the

three or four packets of grease supplied with the

kit in

the boot and the remaining packet(s)

On ACI driveaxles, distribute two supplied packets of grease in the boot and the remaining packet in the in

the housing.

one

of the

8-11

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

HAMMER

DULL PUNCH

9.22a On Citroen driveaxles, make sure the bearing grooves in the housing have been greased, slide the housing over the tripod until

it

bottoms,

.

then stake the new retainer place with a hammer and punch

9.22b

.

ring in

.

.

9.22c If the retainer ring slips while you're staking it, use a pair of C-clamps to hold it in place

.

BOOT RETAINING COLLAR TRIPOD RETAINING TABS

On ACI

driveaxles, press the housing onto the tripod

but don't try to bend the retaining tabs back to their original positions 9.23

housing.

On

Citroen driveaxles, distribute

two-thirds of the grease

the packet

in

in

the

face of the spring cup.

cup.

On GKN

driveaxles, slip the tripod into

down

to their original positions.

the tabs retain the tripod

22

On

in

bottoms (see illustraby rolling the edge into the machined groove in the housing with a hammer and punch (see illustraover the tripod

tion).

If

until

new

it

retainer ring

the retainer ring won't stay

during this operation, hold

clamps (see

illustration).

it

in

place

with two C-

Make sure

the

retainer ring secures the tripod in the housing.

23

24

is

installed

Install

Section

the retention spring

the housing spring pocket

in

tripod

25

is

Make sure

tered

driveaxles, slip the tripod into

When

the

on the vehicle, make re-engaged in the housing.

and seated

in

is

cen-

when

the

8

the spring

the boot and retaining clamp (see

10).

CV joint

Refer to illustrations 9.27a, 9.27b, 9.31, 9.32, 9.33, 9.34, 9.37, 9.41 and 9.45

Remove the boot clamps and push the boot back. 27 Wipe the grease out of the joint. Use a soft-face hammer to drive the housing off the axle (see illustrations). Support the CV joint as this is done and rap the housing sharply on the outer edge to dislodge it from the

26

internal circlip installed

On ACI

.

reinstalled

is

sure the tripod

Outer

Citroen driveaxles, slide the housing

tion). Install a

hold the housing on the shaft. driveaxle

Make sure

the housing.

.

(see illustration) back to their original posiReattach the boot instead, which will

tions.

21

9.27a Give the outer CV joint housing a sharp tap with a softface hammer to disengage it from the internal circlip installed in a groove on the outer end of the axleshaft

the housing but don't bend the retaining tabs

boot and the remaining amount in the housing. Make sure the grease is applied to the bearing grooves in the housing. 20 Position the spring in the housing spring pocket with the cup attached to the exposed end of the spring (see illustration). Apply a small amount of grease to the concave sur-

the housing and bend the retaining ring tabs

-

28

on the

shaft.

Slide the boot off the driveaxle.

If

the

CV

9.27b

.

.

.

and remove the outer

CV joint

housing

was operating properly and the grease doesn't appear to be contaminated, just replace the boot (see Section 10). Bypass the following disassembly procedure. If the CV joint was noisy or the grease was contamijoint

8-12

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveaxles

CAGE— ROTATE 90*,

POSITION

LONG OPENINGS BETWEEN BALL

RACES— LIFT OUT

9.31 After removing the grease, mark the bearing cage, cross and housing to ensure that they're reinstalled in the same relationship to one another

With the cage and cross tilted remove the ball bearings one at a time

9.32

like

this,

Tilt the cross and cage 90-degrees, then align the windows in the cage with the lands and rotate the cross up and out of the outer race

9.33

TURN CROSS 90° POSITION LAND THROUGH CAGE

WINDOWROTATE

OUT

Turn the cross 90-degrees, align the race lands with the

9.37

cage windows and rotate the race out

replacement, pry

9.34

nated, proceed with the disassembly procedure to determine if it should be replaced with a new one. 29 Remove the circlip from the driveaxle groove and discard it (the rebuild kit will include a new circlip). GKN and ACI driveaxles are equipped with a large spacer ring, which must not be removed unless the is being replaced with a new one. Clean the axle spline area and check the

driveaxle

30

splines for wear,

damage and

corrosion.

Clean the outer CV joint bearing assembly with a clean cloth to remove excess

31

grease. Mark the relative position of the bearing cage, cross

and housing (see

illustra-

tion).

32

Grip the housing shaft securely in the blocks in the vise. Push down one side

wood

of the

cage and remove the

ball

bearing from

the opposite side. Repeat the procedure

criss-cross pattern

removed (see

until all of

illustration).

If

in

a

the balls are

the joint

is tight,

tap on the cross (not the cage) with a ham-

mer and brass punch. 33 Remove the bearing cage assembly from the housing by tilting it vertically and

of the

cage

aligning

dows

in

If

the wear sleeve (on models so equipped) requires it off the housing with a large screwdriver

two opposing elongated cage winthe area between the ball grooves

(see illustration).

components before beginning reassembly. 39 Align the marks and install the cross in the cage so one of the lands fits into the elon-

Turn the cross 90-degrees to the cage one of the spherical lands with an elongated cage window. Raise the land into the window and swivel the cross out of the

gated window. 40 Rotate the cross into position in the cage and install the assembly in the CV joint

cage (see illustration). 35 Clean all of the parts with solvent and dry them with compressed air (if available). Inspect the housing, splines, balls and 36 races for damage, corrosion, wear and cracks. Check the cross for wear and scoring in the races. If any of the components are not serviceable, the entire CV joint assembly must be replaced with a new one. 37 Check the outer housing wear sleeve for damage and distortion. If it's damaged or worn, pry the sleeve off the housing (see illustration) and replace it with a new one. A

for clearance.

34

and

align

special tool

is

available for installing the

new

Rotate the cage into position in the housing. On GKN and ACI driveaxles, the large counterbore of the cross must face out

41

(see illustration).

On

Citroen driveaxles, the

cage and cross chamfers must face out. On all driveaxles, make sure the marks made during disassembly face out and are aligned. 42 Pack the lubricant from the kit into the ball races and grooves. 43 Install the balls into the elongated holes, one at a time, until they're all in position. 44 Place the driveaxle in the vise and slide the boot over it. Install a new circlip in the

sleeve, but a large section of pipe slightly

axle groove, taking care not to twist

diameter than the outer edge of the sleeve will work if care is exercised (don't nick or gouge the seal mating surface). 38 Apply a thin coat of oil to all CV joint

45

smaller

in

window

housing, again using the elongated

Place the

CV joint

housing

in

the axle, align the splines and rap with a soft-face

Make sure

it's

hammer

it.

position on it

sharply

(see illustration). seated on the circlip by

Chapter 8

8-13

Clutch and driveaxles

JOINT HOUSING

BOOT RETAINING GROOVE-A.C.I.

CROSS-URGE COUNTERBORE

OUT

WEAR

On GKN and ACI CV joints, make sure

SLEEVE

9.41

the large counterbore faces out when the

CROSS-SMALL

COUNTERBORE INWARD

joint is

BOOT RETAINING SHOULDER-G.K.N.

reassembled 9.45

Strike the

end of the housing shaft with a soft-face hammer engage it with the shaft circlip

to

CLAMP INNER LEFT JOINT BOOT & OUTER JOINT BOOT POSITIONING

GKN

&

INNER RIGHT JOINT BOOT POSITIONING

LOCATING MARK

A.C.I.

BOOT

VENT SLEEVE

BOOT

CV joint

10.9

attempting to

pull

it

PART NUMBER

BOOT HOUSING

LABEL

CLAMP

boot installation details

Install

the boot (see Section 10).

Install

the driveaxle (see Section

10

Constant velocity (CV) - replacement

joint

GKN

ladder-type boot clamp installation details

doubts about the condition of the joint components, perform the inspection procedures described in Section 9. Clean the old grease out of the CV joint 5 and repack it with the grease supplied with

the shaft.

off

46 47

10.11

7).

boots

the

6

kit.

Pack the

interior of the

new boot

with

the remaining grease. 7

Note: If the instructions supplied with the replacement boot kit differ from the instructions here, follow the ones with the new boots.

A

special tool

is

required to

factory-supplied boot clamps, so

install

the

may be

a idea to leave the entire procedure to a dealer service department. Do-it-yourself kits it

good

which offer greatly simplified installation may be available for your vehicle. Consult an auto parts store or dealer parts department for more information on these kits. 1 If the boot is cut. torn or leaking, it must be replaced and the CV joint inspected as soon as possible. Even a small amount of dirt in the joint can cause premature wear and

Obtain a replacement boot kit before beginning this procedure. 2 Remove the driveaxle (see Section 7).

failure.

3

Disassemble the

the boot as described

CV

CV in

joint

Section

and remove 9.

determine if its been damaged by contamination or running with too little lubricant. If you have any 4

Inspect the

joint to

Install

the boot and clamps as follows.

GKN and ACI driveaxles Refer to illustrations 10.9, 10.11, 10.12, 10.17, 10.18 and 10.19 8

GKN

units generally are

equipped with

metal ladder-type clamps. However, two alternative clamps are also used. They include a small rubber clamp at the shaft end of the inner CV joint and a large spring-type clamp on the housing. 1991 and later model outer CV joint boots use a different type of clamp (see Step 16). If so equipped, slide the small rubber 9 clamp over the shaft. Slide the small end of the boot over the shaft and position it as follows: On right inner joints, the small end of the boot lip must be aligned with the mark on the shaft. On left inner and all outer joints, position the small end of the boot in the groove in the shaft (see illustration). 10 Place the rubber clamp in the boot groove (if so equipped) or install the metal clamp.

WEAR

10.12

1

tangs

in

8

Use

this special crimping tool to pinch the clamp bridge

Make

on the

SLEEVE

sure the boot

is

properly located

shaft, then locate the metal

clamp

the slots, making the clamp as tight

as possible by hand (see illustration). 12 Squeeze the clamp bridge with tool

number C-4124

(or equivalent) to

complete

the tightening procedure (on later models,

use tool C-4653 or equivalent) (see illustraDon't cut through the clamp bridge or damage the rubber boot. 13 Reassemble the CV joints and drivetion).

8-14

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

BOOT CLAMP

BOOT CLAMP

OUTER C/V JOINT

HOUSING

OUTER C/V JOINT BOOT 10.17

OUTER C/V JOINT HOUSING

1991 and later models, make sure the outer CV joint boot clamp is installed squarely in the boot groove

On

Open the

10.18

tool

SPECIAL TOOL C-4975

jaws so they

fit

over the boot clamp tabs

TOOL

C-4653

BE SURE TOP TAB IS FULLY SEATED

AGAINST TAB ON LOWER BAND OF CLAMP

Wrap

10.23 10.19

axle

Tighten the tool

components

the boot clamp tabs interlock

until

(see Section

components (see Sec-tion

9).

Locate the large end of the boot over the shoulder or in the groove in the housing (make sure the boot isn't twisted). 15 Install the spring-type clamp or laddertype clamp. If a ladder-type clamp is used, repeat the tightening procedure described in Steps 11 and 12. 14

1991 and later outer 16

CV joint boot

boot clamp onto the shaft.

Slide the boot onto the shaft

securely

in

and seat

1

Open until

the jaws of special tool

the groove

number C-

the clamp tabs are between the

jaws (see illustration). 19 Tighten the bolt on the tool until the boot clamp tabs interlock with each other (see illustration).

20

Reassemble the CV

joints

Following the

CV joint.

the large end of the

Citroen driveaxles Refer to

illustrations 10.23, 10.24, 10.26a,

10.26b, 10.27, 10.28a

21

and 10.28b

Slide the boot over the shaft.

If

you're

an outer CV joint boot, position the vent sleeve under the boot clamp groove. 22 On right inner joints, align the boot lip label.

by the in

9).

the boot clamp on

face with the inner edge of the part

the boot groove (see illustration

17 Place the clamp squarely (see illustration).

install

number

it

10.9).

4975

same procedure,

installing

Before installing the boot on the shaft,

slide the small

the clamp around the boot twice, leaving about 2-

1/2 inches of extra material, then cut off the excess

and driveaxle

If

the label

is

missing, use the

original boot.

On

left

inner

and

mark all

left

outer

the boot between the locating shoulders and align the edge of the lip with the mark made by the original boot. Note: Clamping procedures are identical for attach-

joints, position

ing the boot to the shaft

and

the

and

Pass the strap around the buckle it back about 1-1/8 inch on the

fold

inside of the buckle

CV joint

housing.

23 Wrap the clamping strap around the boot twice, plus 2-1/2 inches, and cut it off (see illustration).

10.24

Pass the end of the strap through the buckle opening and fold it back about 1-1/8 inch on the inside of the buckle (see illustra-

24

tion).

8-15

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

10.26a

10.27

25

.

.

Install

.

the strap on the boot and bend it can't unwind

it

back so

then push the tool forward and up to engage the tool hook in the buckle eye

Position the clamping strap around the

boot, on the clamping surface, with the eye of

the buckle facing you.

Wrap

the boot once and pass

the strap around

through the buckle, then wrap it around a second time and pass it through the buckle again. it

26 Fold the strap back slightly to prevent it from unwinding itself (see illustration), then open the special tool (C-4653) and place the strap in the narrow slot, about 1/2-inch from

10.26b

Attach the tool about 1/2-inch from the buckle

10.28a

Close the tool handles slowly to tighten the

31

down

slowly while releasing the pressure

.

29

28 Tighten the strap by closing the tool handles (see illustration), then rotate the tool

.

break).

tion).

Hold the strap with one hand and push slightly, then fit the tool hook into the buckle eye (see illustra-

27

the tool forward and up

strap,

on the handles (see illustration). Allow the handles to open progressively, then open the tool all the way and slide it sideways off the strap. Caution: Never fold the strap back or rotate the tool down while squeezing the handles together (if this is done, the strap will If the strap isn't tight enough, repeat the procedure. Always engage the tool about 1/2-inch from the buckle. Make sure the strap moves smoothly as tightening force is applied and don't allow the buckle to fold over as the strap passes through it. 30 When the strap is tight, cut it off 1/8inch above the buckle and fold it back neatly.

the buckle (see illustration).

clamp

It

8

must not overlap the edge of the buckle. Repeat the procedure for the remaining

boot clamps.

10.28b ... then rotate the tool down while releasing the pressure on the handles (allow the handles to open)

8-16

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveaxles

Notes

9-1

Brakes

Chapter 9 Contents

Section

Section Anti-lock Brake

System (ABS)

-

general information

Brake check Brake disc - inspection, removal and installation Brake fluid level check Brake light switch - check and replacement Brake hoses and lines - inspection and replacement Brake hydraulic system - bleeding Brake shoes - replacement Disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation

14 See Chapter 1 4 See Chapter 1 13 8 9 5

Disc brake pads

-

replacement

General information

2 1

Master cylinder/hydraulic assembly - removal and installation 7 10 Parking brake - adjustment Parking brake cables - removal and installation 1 Power brake booster - check, removal and installation 12 Rear wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment See Chapter 1

Wheel cylinder

-

removal, overhaul and installation

6

3

Specifications

Brake

fluid

type

See Chapter

1

Disc brakes Brake pad wear

Minimum

See Chapter 1 See specs cast

limit

disc thickness

Disc runout (maximum) Disc thickness (parallelism) variation

limit

into disc

0.005 inch 0.0005 inch

Drum brakes Brake shoe wear

limit

See Chapter

1

Drum

Maximum diameter Out-of-round (maximum)

See specs cast

into

drum

0.002 inch

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Master cylinder-to-booster nuts Power brake booster-to-firewall nuts Caliper guide pin(s)

17 to 25 1 7 to 25

ATE Kelsey-Hayes Caliper mounting bracket-to-steering knuckle bolts Brake hose-to-caliper inlet fitting bolt Wheel cylinder-to-brake backing plate bolts Brake backing plate-to-rear axle bolts 1986 and earlier 1987 and later Hydraulic assembly mounting nuts (ABS-equipped models)

18 to 26 25 to 35

130 to 190 19 to 29 75 in-lbs

35 to 55 65 to 94 21

9

9-2

Chapter 9

Brakes MACHINED ABUTMENT

General information

1

HOLD-DOWN

MACHINED ABUTMENT

SPRING

All models are equipped with hydraulically-operated front disc and rear drum

brakes.

The

front

brakes use a single-piston,

floating-caliper design. Disc brake calipers

from two different manufacturers - ATE and Kelsey-Hayes - are used on the vehicles covered in this manual. They differ in design, so parts are not interchangeable.

ATE

calipers

have two guide pins; some Kelsey-Hayes calipers have two guide pins and some have only one guide pin. 1989 through 1991 twopin

Kelsey-Hayes calipers are similar to ATE

The

To remove an ATE

2.3a

calipers.

rear

drum brakes are a

leading/trail-

ing design with automatic adjustment.

Front-wheel drive vehicles tend to wear

abutment

the front brake pads at a faster rate than reardrive vehicles. Consequently, it's very important to inspect the brake

pads frequently

sure they haven't worn to the point where the disc itself is scored or damaged. Note that the pad thickness limit on these models includes the metal portion of the brake pad, not just the lining material (see

Chapter

in

the reservoir for each

the event of a leak or failure

hydraulic circuit, the other circuit

will

in

cir-

one

remain

Check a

ATE

.

2.3b

... or inserts

under

it

(left

side)

.

or Kelsey-Hayes

caliper.

If

the caliper

mounts on machined abutments on the steering knuckle and has a hold-down spring like the one shown in illustrations 2.3a and 2.3b, an

ATE

caliper;

if

not,

it's

a Kelsey-Hayes

Some

caliper.

ATE caliper Refer

to illustrations 2.3a, 2.3b, 2.5, 2.6,

2.7

and 2.10

On pre-1989 models, loosen the caliper guide pins enough to allow the caliper to be removed; the pins should be removed only if the bushings are being replaced (see Section 3). On 1989 and later models, the bushings are of a different design and the pins can be removed if necessary. Grasp the caliper securely and pull the 3 bottom out and off the lower machined abutment while detaching the hold-down spring from the upper abutment (see illustrations). 2

operative. later

models have an Anti-lock

Braking system (ABS) that aids vehicle stabilduring heavy braking or on wet or uneven

ity

road surfaces. All non-ABS models have a load sensing dual proportioning valve which modulates the rear brake pressure depending on vehicle load. All models are equipped with a cableactuated parking brake, which operates the rear brakes.

2

whether you have calipers.

it's

separate section cuit

unscrew

1).

The hydraulic system consists of two separate circuits. The master cylinder has a - in

(right side)

to

make

caliper,

the guide pins and lift the caliper off the caliper mounting bracket, then detach the hold-down spring which hooks into the

Disc brake pads

-

OUTBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY

Use a screwdriver to pry the outer ATE pad out of the caliper

2.5

Move

4

—

the caliper forward and off the

brake disc. The pads

will

remain with the

caliper.

Use a screwdriver to pry the outer pad 5 out of the caliper (see illustration).

Remove the inner pad by pulling it away 6 from the piston (see illustration). Support the caliper out of the way with a 7

replacement

wire hanger (see illustration). Warning:

Warning: Disc brake pads must be replaced on both front wheels at the same time - never replace the pads on only one wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don't inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake system cleaner or clean brake

Note:

fluid only!

When

servicing the disc brakes, use

high-quality, nationally-recognized,

name-

brand parts. Raise the front of the vehicle and supsecurely on jackstands. Block the rear wheels and apply the parking brake, then remove the front wheels. Note: The pad replacement procedure varies, depending on 1

port

it

2.6

and

Grasp the inner pad with both hands pull

it

straight out until the retainer

detached from the piston

is

Hang the caliper out of the way on a piece of wire - DO NOT let it hang by the brake hose!

2.7

Chapter 9

9-3

Brakes

INBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY (RIGHT

AND

LEFT

COMMON)

OUTBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY (RIGHT SIDE SHOWN) Outer right and left ATE pads are - be sure to check ihe markings

2.10

To get at the pads, remove the guide pin (arrow) (single-pin caliper

before installing them

2.20a pull

it

and pivot the caliper up and off 2.18b the caliper mounting bracket (a typical

2.18a

different

shown; some calipers have two),

To remove the outer pad from a single-pin type, simply - then remove the anti-rattle spring clip (arrow) and transfer it to the new outer pad

.

.

.

.

single-pin caliper

.

shown)

To remove the outer pad from a double-pin the pad shim

2.20b

straight off

.

type,

Don't allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose! 8 Inspect the caliper and adapter for wear,

tion).

damage,

brake fluid leaks. If the caliper-to-adapter mating surfaces are rusty, clean them thoroughly with a wire brush (the caliper must be free to move as the brakes are applied). Also inspect the brake disc (see Section 4). Apply a thin film of Mopar Lubricant (No. 9 2932524) or high-temperature brake grease to the caliper-to-adapter mating surfaces. Remove the protective paper from the noise suppression gasket on both pads. 10 Siphon out a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, then use a piece of wood to carefully push the piston into the caliper bore to provide clearance for the new pads. If you don't want to siphon fluid from the reservoir, remove the reservoir cap(s) and place rags or newspapers under-

the retainer into the piston recess. Caution:

disc.

Don't get any grease on the pad lining material, gasket surface or brake disc.

Kelsey-Hayes caliper

neath the reservoir to catch the overflow that

caliper.

will

rust

and evidence

occur when the piston

make room tion,

for the

is

of

pushed back

new pads. Before

to

installa-

note that the outer pads are marked "L"

and "R" 11

denote

to

left

and

(see illustra-

right

an isolated area and wear off any foreign material on the pads and seat them on the Drive the vehicle

make Install

the inner brake pad by pressing

Connect the hold-down spring to the caliper and press the outer pad into position. 13 Connect the hold-down spring to the upper machined abutment and rotate the 12

caliper into position over the brake disc (see

illustrations 2.3a

and

2.3b).

14 Install the guide pins by hand don't cross-thread them. Tighten the guide pins to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-

tions.

remove

.

in

several stops to

Refer to illustrations 2.20b, 2.20c, 2.21

18

2. 18a, 2.

18b, 2.20a,

and 2.26

Remove

the caliper guide pin(s) (see swing up the lower end of the caliper and pull it off the caliper mounting bracket (see illustration). Note: It may be necessary to wedge a screwdriver between the caliper and mounting bracket and pry illustration),

break the gasket adhesive seals. Support the caliper out of the way with a wire hanger (see illustration 2.7). Warning: Don 't allow the caliper to hang by the brake

slightly to 1

15

the wheel, hand tighten the wheel and lower the vehicle. Tighten the

Install

lug nuts

lug nuts to the torque listed

in

the Chapter

1

Specifications.

16 17

Pump

for the other

the brake pedal several times to

pads

Detach the outer brake pad and shim (if equipped) from the caliper mounting bracket (see illustrations). If you're replacing the pads on a single-pin caliper, remove the antirattle spring and install it on the new outer

20

Repeat Steps 2 through 15

bring the

hose!

into contact with the disc.

Check the brake

fluid level (see

Chapter

1).

pad.

9

9-4

2.20c

Chapter 9

.

.

.

Brakes

disengage the upper end of the brake pad backing and remove the pad - after you

plate from the anti-rattle spring

remove the inner pad, the

2.21

anti-rattle spring (arrow) will fall out of

BEFORE

the caliper mounting bracket, so note how it's installed you remove the inner pad

After removing the inner pad from a single-pin type, remove the anti-rattle spring clip (arrow) and transfer it to the new inner pad

Detach the inner brake pad and shim, if equipped (see illustration). If you're replacing the pads on a single-pin caliper, remove the anti-rattle spring and install it on the new inner pad. If you're replacing the pads on a double-pin caliper, note how the anti-rattle spring clip is installed on the caliper mounting bracket, in case it falls off before you install 21

the

22

new

pads.

Inspect the caliper and caliper mounting

bracket for wear, damage, rust and evidence If the caliper-to-bracket mating surfaces are rusty, clean them thoroughly with a wire brush (the caliper must be able to move freely when the brakes are applied). Also inspect the brake disc (see Section 4) 23 Siphon some brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, or place rags or newspapers underneath the reservoir to catch the overflow that will occur when the piston is pushed back to make room for the new pads. Then use a piece of wood to carefully push the piston into the caliper bore far enough to provide clearance for the new pads. 24 Apply a thin film of Mopar Lubricant (no. 2932524) or high-temperature brake grease to the adapter-to-brake pad and caliper mating surfaces. Remove the protective paper from the noise suppression gasket on both pads. 25 Install the inner brake pad, making sure the anti-rattle spring is secure. Caution: Don't get any grease on the pad lining material, gasket surface or brake disc. 26 Apply anti-squeal compound (available at auto parts stores) to the shim, if equipped, and install the shim (see illustration). 27 Place the outer pad in position in the caliper mounting bracket. 28 Slide the caliper into position over the pad and disc assembly. Install the guide pin(s) and tighten 29 it/them to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Don't cross-thread the guide

of fluid leaks.

pin(s) during installation.

30

Repeat Steps 18 through 29

other caliper.

for the

3.2 Place some shop rags or newspapers under the brake hose inlet fitting before - and plug it to prevent

Apply anti-squeal compound to the shims (if equipped) when replacing the brake pads

2.26

31

lug nuts

and lower the

Chapter

1

Specifications.

Pump

bring the

Check

the brake pedal several times to

pads

into

make

contact with the disc.

the brake fluid level (see Chapter

Drive the vehicle

in

1).

an isolated area and

several stops to wear off any foreign

material on the

pads and seat them on the

disc.

3

Disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation

Warning

1: Dust created by the brake system contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don 't inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when

may

Do

Warning

2:

faces

de-

damage to the vehicle's painted surmay result (see Section 7, Step 14).

Note: If an overhaul is indicated (usually because of fluid leakage), explore all options before beginning the job. New and factory rebuilt calipers are available on an exchange basis, which makes this job quite easy. If it's decided to rebuild the calipers, make sure a rebuild

kit is

available before proceeding.

Always rebuild the calipers rebuild just one of them.

in

pairs

-

never

Removal Refer to 1

front

illustration 3.2

Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the securely on of the vehicle and support it

Remove the front wheels. Note: Don remove the brake hose

clean brake

to

not,

On ABS-equipped models,

injury or

jackstands.

fluid only!

you

pressurize the accumulator before disconnecting any brake lines or hoses or personal

under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or working on the brakes.

-

vehicle. Tighten the

lug nuts to the torque listed in the

32

contamination right after disconnect it

the wheel, hand tighten the wheel

Install

2

't

from

you 're only removing the caliper gain access to other components. If you're

the caliper

if

Place a piece of wood between the and the piston, then force the piston out of the caliper bore with compressed air - be sure to keep your hands and fingers out of the way during

Use a screwdriver to pry the dust

3.6

procedure

and contamination.

tion 2).

6

the

Position a

wooden block

or several

shop

in

caliper

enough

air

the bore.

If

(see

Use only

illustration).

pressure to ease the piston out of the piston

the cushion

in

blown

is

place,

it

out,

even with

may be damaged.

Warning: A/ever place your fingers in front of the piston in an attempt to catch or protect it

when applying compressed air could

8

illustrations 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9a, 3.9b,

3.9c, 3.9d, 3.14

and 3.15

serious injury

result!

Carefully pry the dust boot out of the

kerosene

or

Using a

wood

or plastic tool,

piston seal from the groove

in

remove the the caliper

bore (see illustration). Metal tools

the brake pads (see Section

2).

Clean the exterior of the caliper with 5 brake cleaner or new brake fluid. Never use gasoline,

you

the bore and seal groove

clean workbench.

7

Remove

damage

wood

caliper bore (see illustration).

Overhaul

4

the piston seal with a

the caliper as a cushion, then use compressed air to remove the piston from

3 Remove the caliper guide pin(s) and detach the caliper from the vehicle (see Sec-

Refer to

Remove

pencil or a plastic eating utensil so

don't

rags

removing the caliper for overhaul, remove the brake hose inlet fitting bolt and detach the hose (see illustration). Have a rag handy to catch spilled fluid and wrap a plastic bag tightly around the end of the hose to prevent fluid loss

3.8

boot out of the caliper bore

caliper

this

9-5

Brakes

Chapter 9

petroleum-based

cleaning solvents. Place the caliper on a

may dam-

age the bore. 9

Remove

the caliper bleeder screw, then

remove and discard the

caliper (guide) pin

bushing(s) from the caliper ears. Discard rubber parts (see illustrations).

SHOE ASSEMBLY (OUTBOARD)

all

Grab the ends of the mounting pin bushings with needle-nose pliers and push them through the caliper ears with a twisting motion 3.9a

BLEEDER

CALIPER

SCREW

GUIDE PIN

9

PIN

BUSHING CALIPER

3.9b

An exploded view

of a typical

ATE

caliper

assembly

9-6

Chapter 9 OUTBOARD

Brakes

INBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY

SHOE ASSEMBLY

ADAPTER

3.9c An exploded view of a typical single-pin Kelsey-Hayes caliper assembly

Q DUST

BOOT

SEAL

CALIPER

SHOE ASSEMBLY

SHOE ASSEMBLY (OUTBOARD)

CALIPER PIN

'BUSHING

PISTON

1

,

CAP

PISTON

BOLT

SLEEVE

BUSHING

(INBOARD)

BUSHING

BOOT

3.9d

An exploded view

BOLT

SLEEVE

CALIPER

SEAL

of a typical double-pin Kelsey-Hayes caliper

10 Clean the remaining parts with brake system cleaner or new brake fluid then blow

them dry 11

with

Carefully

compressed air. examine the piston

burrs and excessive wear.

If

for nicks,

surface defects

are present, the parts must be replaced.

12

Check the

caliper bore

in

remove

light

is

permissi-

corrosion and stains, but

it

into its

bore

in

the caliper

in

the caliper

bore (see illustration). 16 Install the bleeder screw. 17 Install new caliper pin bushings (and sleeves, if equipped).

Installation

sary.

14

push

in

ment.

When

make

sure

it

18 Inspect the caliper guide pin(s) for excessive corrosion. Replace them if neces-

reassembling the caliper, lubricate the bore and seal with clean brake fluid. Position the seal in the caliper bore groove -

When you install the piston, make it doesn't become cocked as you

Stretch the dust boot over the groove

rust or pitting will require caliper replace-

13

3.14

1

the piston, then carefully seat

a similar way.

Light polishing with crocus cloth ble to

assembly

sure

it

isn't

twisted.

Lubricate the piston with clean brake it squarely in the bore and apply

fluid, install

pressure to bottom tration).

it

in

the caliper (see illus-

19 Clean the caliper and caliper mounting bracket contact surfaces with a wire brush,

then apply a thin film of high-temperature brake grease to them. 20 Install the brake pads and caliper (see Section 2). 21 Install the brake hose and inlet fitting bolt, using new copper washers, then tighten

Chapter 9

the correct seal driver tool isn't use a drift punch to tap around the edge until the dust boot is seated

3.15

If

Make

4.4a

sure the lug nuts are

in this

Chapter's

22

If

the line

to

bleed the brakes (see Section 9). Install the wheels and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the

23

Chapter 1 Specifications. 24 After the job has been completed, firmly depress the brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into contact with the disc. 25 Check brake operation before driving the vehicle

4

suspend the

in traffic.

Brake disc - inspection, removal and installation

4.5b

let

way

with a

the caliper hang by

the hose and don't stretch or twist the hose.

Inspection Refer to illustrations 4.4a, 4.4b, 4.5a and 4.5b Visually inspect the disc surface for 3 scoring and other damage. Light scratches and shallow grooves are normal after use and

may

1

Loosen the wheel

Remove

it

lug nuts, raise the

securely on jackstands.

the wheel and reinstall the lug nuts

to hold the disc in place.

2

Remove

the brake caliper (see Section

not necessary to disconnect the brake hose. After removing the caliper guide pin(s),

3). It's

Using a swirling motion, remove the glaze from the disc surface with sandpaper or emery cloth

Measure the disc thickness with a micrometer

not affect brake operation, but deep - over 0.015-inch (0.38 mm) -

its

at several

circumference

machine shop. Note: Professionals recom-

mend resurfacing

of brake discs regardless of

the dial indicator reading (to produce a

smooth, flat surface that will eliminate brake pedal pulsations and other undesirable symptoms related to questionable discs). At the very least, if you elect not to have the discs resurfaced, deglaze them with sandpaper or emery cloth (use a swirling motion to ensure a non-directional finish) (see illustration).

require disc removal and refinishing by an

5 The disc must not be machined to a thickness less than the minimum cast into the

automotive machine shop. Be sure to check both sides of the disc. If pulsating has been

thickness can be checked with a micrometer

score marks

noticed during application of the brakes, suspect disc runout.

To check disc runout, mount a dial indicator with the stem resting about 1/2-inch from the outer edge of the disc (see illustra4

vehicle and support

4.4b

points around

caliper out of the

piece of wire. Don't

was disconnected, be sure

place

disc runout with a dial indicator

4.5a The disc can be resurfaced by an automotive machine shop, provided the machining operation doesn't result in a disc thickness less than the minimum stamped on it

Specifications.

in

and evenly tightened, then measure the

available,

the bolt to the torque listed

9-7

Brakes

Set the indicator to zero and turn the indicator reading should not exceed the maximum allowable runout listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If it does, the disc

tion).

disc.

The

should

be refinished by an automotive

inside of the disc (see illustration).

The disc

(see illustration).

Removal Refer to

illustrations 4.6a

and 4.6b

Remove

the lug nuts you installed to hold the disc in place during inspection. The

6

some models are equipped with washers to prevent them from slipping off while the caliper is removed; if the discs on your vehicle are so equipped, discs on retaining

9

9-8

Brakes

Chapter 9

SUPPORT

ANCHOR

RETURN SPRING

PLATE

SHOE TAB (3)

PLATE

RETURN SPRING

CABLE GUIDE

PARKING BRAKE PARKING BRAKE

STRUT

LEVER 4.6a

washers

If

the discs on your vehicle use retaining them off with a pair of needlenose pliers and discard them

ANTIRATTLE

like this, pull

SPRING

SHOE RETAINERS,

SPRING NAIL

SHOE TO SHOE SPRING

AND

ADJUSTER SCREW ASSEMBLY (STAR WHEEL)

SECONDARY SHOE

AND

PRIMARY SHOE

AND

When you remove the disc, make sure you damage the threads on the wheel studs

4.6b

remove the washer with needle-nose pliers (see illustration) and discard it. Slide the disc off the threaded studs (see illustration).

Installation 7 Place the disc in position over the threaded studs. 8 Install the caliper and brake pads (see Section 3). Tighten the caliper guide pin(s) to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-

time

-

Check

the operation of the brakes

carefully before driving the vehicle

5

Brake shoes

Refer to illustrations

-

in traffic.

replacement

5.3, 5.4, 5.5a, 5.5b, 5.5c,

5.5d, 5.7a, 5.7b, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10, 5.13, 5.15, 5.18, 5.20, 5.22, 5.25

and 5.33

Warning: Drum brake shoes must be replaced on both rear wheels at the same

and use

it

(left

side shown)

to turn the star

adjuster screw (push

down on

wheel on the

ful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don't inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake system

Brake dust may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Do not blow it out of the brake shoe assembly with compressed air

cleaner or clean brake

drum

fluid only!

Note:

When

brakes, use high-quality,

nationally-recognized,

the caliper.

drum brake assembly

the

Install the wheel and lug nuts, then 9 lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1

Depress the brake pedal a few times to bring the brake pads into contact with the disc. Bleeding of the system isn't necessary unless the brake hose was disconnected from

rear

never replace the shoes on only one

servicing the

10

A typical

wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harm-

tions.

Specifications.

LEVER

SPRING

LINING

5.3

don't

LINING

the tool)

until

drum will pull off. Use brake system cleaner to remove 3 dust and brake fluid from the shoe assembly components (see illustration). Warning:

and do not

inhale any of it. Hold the adjuster lever

4

off the adjuster

name-brand parts.

Removal 1 Raise the rear of the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands and block the front

wheels. Remove the rear wheels. Begin working on the left wheel brake assembly first. Work on only one brake assembly at a time so you can use the other side for reference. 2 Remove the hub/brake drum assembly (see Chapter 1). If the drum won't slide off, you'll have to back off the automatic adjuster screw, as follows. Remove the rubber plug from the rear of the brake backing plate, then insert a thin screwdriver through the hole and use it to push the adjuster lever off the adjuster screw (see illustration 5.3). Insert another screwdriver or brake adjusting tool

5.4

A

special brake spring tool, like the

one shown

here,

is

necessary to remove

the return springs - tools like this are available inexpensively at auto parts stores

Chapter 9

5.5a

Lift

the adjuster cable off

anchor pin

5.5d

Lift

.

5.5b

.

.

.

disconnect the overload spring

at the other

.

the anchor plate off the pin

end and

Use needle-nose

5.7a

9-9

Brakes

.

5.5c

.

.

.

remove the cable guide

.

pliers to

unhook

the shoe-to-shoe spring

Use a brake hold-down spring tool or pliers to depress the hold-down spring and turn the retainer

5.7b With the spring removed, detach the adjuster screw (star wheel) assembly

9

5.9

5.8

Remove

the parking brake strut and

anti-rattle spring

screw and back pletely.

off

Remove

the adjuster screw

the

com-

brake shoe return

springs, noting that the secondary spring

overlaps the primary spring (see illustration). Slide the eye of the automatic adjuster 5 cable off the anchor plate, detach it from the adjuster lever, then remove the cable guide and anchor plate (see illustrations). 6 Disconnect the adjuster lever from the spring by rotating it until the large hole in the

lever

is

on the

aligned with the pin, then pulling out

disengaged from the pin. Work the lever out from under the spring, then remove the spring from the pin. 7 Remove the shoe-to-shoe spring with pliers, then detach the adjuster screw assemlever until the lever

is

bly (see illustrations).

8

Remove Remove

Rotate the parking brake lever and slip it out of the shoe

depressing the retainer with a pair of pliers or a special tool and turning the retainer until its slot aligns with the flattened end of the pin (nail); release pressure and the spring and retainer should Lift

10

come

off

(see illustration).

the shoes off the backing plate.

Disconnect the parking brake lever from

the parking brake strut (see

the parking brake cable. Place the assembly

hold-down springs by

on a work surface and remove the parking brake lever by rotating it until it slips out of

illustration).

9

5.10

the

9-10

Chapter 9 WASHER

Brakes

SOCKET

STAMPED

LETTER

L-LEFT BRAKE

R-RIGHT BRAKE

5.15

Adjuster

components

SCREW THREADS

BUTTON

-

exploded view

NUT

The maximum allowable inside is stamped on it

5.13

diameter of the drum

the

slot,

then transfer the lever to the

shoe (see 11

It

new

illustration).

may be necessary

to transfer the

adjuster lever pins from the old shoes to the

new

ones. This can usually be done with a (to remove them), a small socket (to install them) and a hammer.

punch

Inspection 12 Check the shoe linings to make sure they indicate full contact with the drum.

Shoes with uneven wear must be replaced. 13 Check the drum for cracks, score marks and signs of overheating. Measure the inside diameter of the drum and compare to the size stamped on the drum (see illustration). Minor imperfections in the drum surface can be removed with fine emery paper. Deeper score marks can be removed by having the drum resurfaced by an automotive machine shop (as long as the maximum diameter is not exceeded). Note: Professionals recommend resurfacing the drums whenever the shoes are replaced. Replace the brake drum with a new one if it is not usable. 1 Check the brake springs for signs of discolored paint, indicating overheating, and distorted end coils. Replace them with new ones if necessary. Note: Since the continuous heating/cooling cycles the brake assembly is subjected to cause springs to fatigue it

we recommend

(wear out) quickly,

replacing

hold-down and shoe-to-shoe springs whenever the shoes are replaced. 15 Check the adjuster screw assembly and threads for bent, corroded and damaged components. Replace the assembly if the the return,

5.18 The area on the backing plate where the brake shoes contact it must be smooth and lubricated with high-

temperature grease 18

Check

for

rough or rusted shoe contact

areas on the backing plate (sand them

lightly,

necessary), then lubricate the contact points with high-temperature grease (see if

illustration).

Also lubricate the contact points

on the anchor

pin.

Installation Slide the primary

ANCHOR

Push down on the spring and turn until

the retainer locks

in

it

place

20 Insert the pin through the backing plate from the rear and hold it in place while installing the hold-down spring and retainer (see illustration). Install the anchor plate, hook the free end of the adjuster cable over the anchor pin and connect the primary shoe return spring. 22 Install the anti-rattle spring on the parking brake strut and install the parking brake

21

strut

shoe into position on the backing plate and engage the upper end against the anchor pin and piston. 19

5.20

(see illustration).

Attach the parking brake lever to the cable and install the parking brake lever into the rectangular hole in the secondary brake

23

ADJUSTER CABLE

PLATE

RETURN SPRING

screw threads are damaged or rusted. Clean the threads and lubricate them, along with the contact areas on the button and washer, with white lithium-based grease (see illustration).

16

Carefully peel

boots and check

back the wheel cylinder damage and signs of

5.22 Seat the parking brake strut into the slot in

for

leakage.

17 there

the shoe

Rebuild or replace the wheel cylinder is

if

any sign of leakage around the boots

(see Section

6).

PRIMARY SHOE

PARKING BRAKE CABLE

9-11

Brakes

Chapter 9

CYLINDER BOLTS

AH ACHING

Here's the cable guide and return spring correctly installed - note how the

5.33 Insert the screwdriver or brake adjusting tool (shown here) into the hole

adjuster cable is routed around the cable guide

and turn the star wheel

5.25

d)

shoe. To attach the lever to the cable, slide the cable spring back along the cable and hold it in place with needle-nose pliers while

e)

Repeat the adjustment on the opposite

Removal

wheel.

Refer to

Install the

plugs

in

the backing plate

access holes. tion 10).

the free end of the strut. Insert the pin through the backing plate from the rear and hold it in place while installing the hold-down

Lower the vehicle and check the brake 35 operation very carefully before placing the vehicle into normal service.

Adjust the parking brake (see Sec-

Install

the cable guide by inserting the

rim into the secondary

shoe web and connect

6

the return spring (see illustration).

26 Secure the ends of the return springs around the anchor by squeezing them with pliers until

27

they are

Install

parallel.

the adjuster with the star wheel

Wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

Overhaul

Note: Before deciding to rebuild a wheel make sure parts are available. It's sometimes more practical to simply replace the old wheel cylinder with a new or rebuilt

nect

unit instead of rebuilding

to the adjuster lever. Put a small

cylinder,

it.

5).

Disconnect the brake line (tube) from the back of the wheel cylinder and plug it. Use a flare-nut wrench, if available. 4 Unbolt the wheel cylinder and remove it from the backing plate (see illustration). Clean the backing plate and wheel cylinder mating surfaces. 3

Refer

procedure or personal injury or damage to the vehicle 's painted surfaces may result (see Section 7, Step 14).

Chap-

(see

and the brake shoes (see Section

ter 1)

Warning: On ABS-equipped models, de-

28 Install the shoe-to-shoe spring. 29 Install the adjuster lever spring over the shoe pivot pin, then insert the adjuster under the spring and over the pin. 30 Route the adjuster cable around the guide (make sure it's pulled tight) and conit

Remove the rear wheels. Remove the rear hub/drum

wheels.

pressurize the accumulator before beginning this

next to the secondary shoe.

illustration 6.4

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support securely on jackstands, then block the front

2

spring and retainer.

25

1 it

you slide the lever onto the cable. 24 Place the secondary shoe in position, engaging it with the wheel cylinder piston and

34

6.4 To detach the wheel cylinder from the brake backing plate, disconnect the brake tube fitting and remove the two attaching bolts

to illustration 6.5

Note: You 'II need a clean place to work, clean rags, some newspapers, a wheel cylinder rebuild kit, a container of brake fluid and some denatured alcohol to perform a wheel cylinder overhaul.

Remove

5 tion)

the bleeder screw (see illustra-

and check

to

make sure

it

is

not

obstructed.

amount of high-temperature grease along the cable, where contacts the cable guide. 31 Check the operation of the adjuster by pulling the cable to the rear. The star wheel it

CLIP

EXPANDERS

AND SPRING

should rotate up.

32 Install the hub/drum assembly and the wheel. Repeat the procedure on the right wheel.

PUSH-ON

33 After the shoes and drums are in place on both wheels, install the wheels and adjust each brake assembly, as follows: a)

Remove in the

b)

the rubber plug from the hole

backing

Insert a

BOOT

plate.

narrow screwdriver or brake

adjusting tool through the hole in the backing plate and turn the star wheel until the brake drags slightly as the tire is turned (see illustration). c)

Back

off the star (it

will

wheel

PISTON BLEEDER SCREW

until the tire turns

be necessary

to use another screwdriver to hold the adjuster lever off

freely

CYLINDER

the star wheel

-

see Step

2).

6.5

An exploded view

of a typical

wheel cylinder assembly

g 9

9-12

Chapter 9

Brakes HIGH PRESSURE HOSE HYDRAULIC FITTING

HIGH PRESSURE

HOSE TUBE NUT

HIGH PRESSURE

HOSE

To remove the master

7.2

line fittings (1)

6

cylinder, disconnect the two brake with a flare-nut wrench and remove the two mounting nuts (2)

Carefully pry the boots from the wheel

and remove them. 7 Push in on one piston and force out the opposite piston, cups and spring with the clip expanders from the bore. Clean the wheel cylinder, pistons and 8 cylinder

spring with clean brake

fluid,

denatured alco-

system solvent and dry them with compressed air. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based sol-

ASSEMBLY

easy to cross-thread it. the brake shoes (see Section 5) and the hub/drum (see Chapter 1). 18 Bleed the brakes (see Section 9). 19 Install the wheels and lower the vehicle. Check the brake operation very carefully before placing the vehicle into normal service.

since

it is

17

Install

7

Master cylinder/hydraulic assembly - removal and

hol or brake

vents or gasoline to clean brake parts.

Check the cylinder bore and pistons for score marks and corrosion (pitting). Slight imperfections in the bore can be removed 9

with fine crocus cloth (use a circular motion).

Black stains on the cylinder walls are caused by the cups and will not impair brake operation. If the pistons or wheel cylinder bore are badly scored or pitted, replace the wheel cylinder.

10 Lubricate the components with clean brake fluid or brake assembly lubricant prior to installation.

With the cylinder bore coated with clean brake fluid or brake assembly lube, install the spring and clip expanders. Install the cups in each end of the cylinder. Make sure the open 1

ends

cups are facing each other. 12 Engage the boot on the piston and slide the assembly into the bore. Carefully press the boot over the cylinder end until it is seated. Repeat the procedure for the remaining boot and piston. 1

of the

Install

the bleeder screw.

14 15

To

install

position,

to the

wheel

the wheel cylinder, hold

install

the mounting

bolts

it

in

and

them to the specified torque. 16 Unplug the brake line, insert it into the wheel cylinder fitting and carefully thread the

tighten

flare nut into place.

started, tighten

it

the nut

is

properly

securely with a wrench (use

a flare nut wrench extra careful

Once if

available).

when attaching

bleeding procedure.

installation

Caution: Se the flare-nut,

Loosen one plug

screwdriver) to force cylinder.

Master cylinder (models not equipped with ABS) Refer to

at

a time and push the

To prevent

from the master from being drawn the plug must be tightair

air

back into the cylinder, ened before allowing the piston its

illustration 7.2

to return to

original position.

Since high pressure

7

is

not involved

in

Note: The master cylinder installed on these vehicles cannot be rebuilt. If problems are encountered, replace it with a new unit.

the bench bleeding procedure, an alternative

Place a container and several layers of newspaper under the master cylinder to catch spilled brake fluid. Unscrew the steel line flare-nuts (see 2 illustration), remove the lines and cap them.

available. Before

1

Use

a

flare-nut

unscrew the

wrench,

if

available,

nuts. Allow the fluid in the

to

mas-

ter cylinder to drain into the container.

3

Remove

the mounting nuts and detach

the master cylinder from the booster. are installing a

new master

cylinder,

it

If

you

may be

necessary to transfer the plastic fluid resernew master cylinder. To do so, first portion of the master cylinder

Apply RTV-type sealant

be bled. The time required to bleed the system can be reduced if the master cylinder is filled with fluid and bench bled before the master cylinder is installed on the vehicle. Insert threaded plugs of the correct size 5 into the cylinder outlet holes and fill both reservoirs with brake fluid. The master cylinder should be supported in a level manner so that brake fluid will not spill during the bench

piston assembly into the bore (use a Phillips

drain the reservoir, then place the

cylinder mating surface of the backing plate.

connection details

6

voir to the

Installation

Hydraulic assembly

7.19

PUMP MOTOR

CLIP

in

aluminum

a vise and

use your hand (no tools) to gently pull the it back and forth. Replace the two rubber grommets with new ones, put them in place in the master cylinder, lubricate them with clean brake fluid and press the reservoir back into place, using a rocking motion. Make sure the bottom of the reservoir touches the top of each gromreservoir off while gently rocking

met. Every time the master cylinder 4

to the removal

and replacement

of the plug

with each stroke of the piston assembly

pushing

in

is

on the piston

assembly, remove the plug, then depress the piston as described above. Before releasing the piston, however, instead of replacing the plug, simply put your finger tightly over the hole to keep air from being drawn back into the master cylinder. Wait several seconds for brake fluid to be drawn from the reservoir into the piston bore, then depress the piston again, removing your finger as the brake fluid is expelled. Be sure to put your finger back over the hole each time before releasing the piston. When the bleeding procedure is complete for that port, replace the plug and tighten it snugly before going on to the other port to repeat the procedure. Stroke the piston three or four times for 8 each outlet to ensure that all air has been expelled.

9

Refill

install

only to

the master cylinder reservoirs and

the caps. Note: The reservoirs should

be

filled to

the top of the reservoir divider

prevent overflowing when the caps are

installed. is

re-

moved, the complete hydraulic system must

10

To

install

the master cylinder, hold

position, align the

pushrod and master

it

in

cylin-

9-13

Brakes

Chapter 9

assembly nuts from under the instrument panel.

Remove

the hydraulic assembly.

Installation 24 Have an assistant hold the hydraulic assembly in position on the firewall while you install the hydraulic assembly mounting nuts. Tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 25 Coat the bearing surface of the pedal pin with multi-purpose grease. 26 Connect the pushrod to the pedal pin and install a new retainer clip. The pushrod must be assembled to the pedal pin as

shown in illustration 7.22. 27 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten all brake line/hose connections securely. Refill the fluid reservoir and bleed the brakes (see Section 9). 29 Check for leaks and carefully check the operation of the brakes before driving the

28 PUSH

ROD

vehicle

NOTE: PUSH ROD MUST BE INSTALLED IN POSITION

SHOWN

in traffic.

HERE.

8

Brake hoses and

-

lines

inspection and replacement 7.22

der piston and ger

Hydraulic assembly and related

install

the mounting nuts

fin-

tight.

the lines and carefully start the flare-nuts, taking care not to cross-thread them. Since the master cylinder is still loose, 11

Install

you can move

it

as necessary to help the

have been started by hand, tighten them securely

flare-nuts thread correctly. After they with a flare-nut wrench.

12 Tighten the master cylinder mounting nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

13 Fill the master cylinder reservoir and bleed the brakes (see Section 9).

components

-

exploded view

Removal 14 De-pressurize the hydraulic accumulator by pressing the brake pedal a minimum of 40 times with the ignition switch Off. Use about 50 pounds of force when pressing the pedal. When the accumulator is depressurized, you will

notice the pedal

is

harder to press; press

the pedal a few additional times after you feel this.

Warning: Leave the

Refer to

illustrations

7.

19

and

7.22

Warning: Before you perform this procedure, you must depressurize the accumulator as described in Step 14. Otherwise, personal and/or damage to the painted surfaces of the vehicle may result. Also, never attempt to disassemble the hydraulic assembly or personal injury or component damage may injury

nected or the accumulator pressurize.

It's

a

good

will

once again

idea to disconnect the

cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

15

Remove

the

air

cleaner and fresh

16

Remove

air

fluid

17 from 18 from

Disconnect

all

electrical

connectors

When

installing the

off

the brake

much

as

fluid

brake

between the

line

line,

leave at

and any mov-

ing or vibrating parts.

4

the hydraulic assembly

Siphon

3

least 3/4-inch

reservoir.

and 8.4b

1 About every six months, the flexible hoses which connect the steel brake lines with the rear brakes and the front calipers should be inspected for cracks, chafing of the outer cover, leaks, blisters and other damage. 2 Replacement steel and flexible brake lines are commonly available from dealer parts departments and auto parts stores. Do not, under any circumstances, use anything other than steel lines or approved flexible brake hoses as replacement items.

4).

the windshield washer

illustrations 8.4a

Warning: On ABS-equipped models, depressurize the accumulator before disconnecting any hoses or lines or personal injury or damage to the vehicle's painted surfaces may result (see Section 7, Step 14).

When

disconnecting a hose and a

line,

as possible

fluid reservoir.

Disconnect the pump high-pressure hose from the hydraulic assembly (see illus19

9

tration).

20

Disconnect the

the steel tube. 21

Cap

Disconnect

pump

return

hose from

the end of the steel tube.

all

brake lines from the

hydraulic assembly.

result.

Note:

ignition switch Off

during the entire time brake lines are discon-

intake duct (see Chapter

Hydraulic assembly (1991 through 1993 models equipped with ABS)

Refer to

On ABS-equipped models,

the brake

master cylinder is part of an integrated hydraulic assembly and the master cylinder should not be separated from this assembly. Testing the hydraulic assembly is beyond the scope of the home mechanic. However, if the unit has been diagnosed defective by a dealer service department or other qualified shop, you can remove and install the assembly yourself.

Working under the instrument panel, between the center tang on the retainer clip and the pin in the brake pedal. Rotate the screwdriver enough 22

position a small screwdriver

to allow the retainer clip center tang to

pass

over the end of the brake pedal pin (see illustration). Remove and discard the retainer the pushrod off the pedal pin. While an assistant supports the hydraulic assembly, remove the four hydraulic clip. Pull

23

To detach a metal brake line from 8.4a the flexible hose, loosen the fitting with a flare-nut

wrench

.

.

9-14

Chapter 9

Brakes

system at all four brakes if air has entered the system due to low fluid level, or if the brake lines have been disconnected at the master cylinder. If a brake line was disconnected only at a wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylinder must be bled.

2

If a brake line is disconnected at a fitting located between the master cylinder and any

3

system served by the disconnected line must be bled. 4 Remove any residual vacuum from the brake power booster by applying the brake several times with the engine off. On ABSequipped models, depressurize the accumulator, as described in Section 7, Step 14. 5 Remove the brake fluid reservoir caps and fill the reservoir with brake fluid. Reinstall the cover. Note: Check the fluid level often during the bleeding operation and add fluid as necessary to prevent the fluid level from falling low enough to allow air into the master of the brakes, that part of the

8.4b

.

then pull off the retaining clip with needle-nose pliers

.

loosen the

.

wrench (see has been looscan be removed (see

with a flare-nut

fitting

Once

the

ened, the retaining

clip

illustration).

fitting

illustration).

When connecting two hoses, use openend wrenches on the hose ends. When connecting two hoses, make sure they're not bent, twisted or strained in any way. 5

6

Steel brake lines are usually retained at

several points with clips. Always

remove the

clips before detaching a steel brake line.

Always reinstall the clips (or new ones if the old ones are damaged) when replacing a brake line - they provide support and keep the lines from vibrating, which can eventually break them. 7

cylinder.

6 Have an assistant on hand, as well as a supply of new brake fluid, a clear plastic container partially filled with clean brake fluid, a length of tubing (preferably clear) to fit over the bleeder screw and a wrench to open and close the bleeder screw. 7 Beginning at the right rear wheel, loosen the bleeder screw slightly, then tighten it to a point where it's snug but can still be loosened quickly and easily. 8 Place one end of the tubing over the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in

brake 9

After installing a line or hose, bleed the 9).

-

fluid

bleeding Refer

to illustration 9.8

Warning

1

Wear eye protection when bleed-

:

ing the brake system.

If

the fluid

comes

in

contact with your eyes, immediately rinse them with water and seek medical attention.

Warning

2:

On 1991 through 1993 ABS-

equipped models, de-pressurize the accumulator as described in Section 7, Step 14 or personal injury or damage to the vehicle's painted surfaces

Warning

Have your assistant pump the brakes

may result.

in

the sys-

tem, then hold the pedal down firmly. 10 While the pedal is held down, open the bleeder screw. Watch for air bubbles to exit

the

Brake hydraulic system

submerged end

of the tube.

When

the

flow slows, tighten the screw and have

your assistant release the pedal. 1 Repeat Steps 9 and 10 until no more air is seen leaving the tube, then tighten the bleeder screw and proceed to the left rear wheel, the right front wheel and the left front wheel, in that order, and perform the same procedure. Be sure to check the fluid in the

Refill

service department.

brake system.

essary to remove

way

into the

air that

manages to find its it's been opened

and installation

of a hose,

It'll

movement, support

it

raise the rear of the vehicle and securely on jackstands. Release

the parking brake.

1989 and earlier models Refer to

illustration 10.4

Clean the cable adjuster threads with a wire brush and lubricate them with multi-pur3

pose grease. Loosen the adjusting nut (see

4

tion) until there's slack

Have an

5 to

make

in

illustra-

the cable.

assistant rotate the rear wheels

sure they turn easily.

Tighten the adjusting nut until a slight 6 drag can be felt when the rear wheels are turned. You may have to keep the adjuster rod from turning by holding

it

with a wrench

or pair of pliers.

of the operation.

14

Check the operation of the brakes. The feel solid when depressed, with

pedal should

10

Parking brake

-

adjustment

line,

caliper or master cylinder. 1

Block the front wheels to prevent vehicle

2

nec-

system when

during removal

that caliper or wheel cylinder

the reservoir with fluid at the end

no sponginess. If necessary, repeat the entire process. Warning: Don't operate the vehicle if you're in doubt about the condition of the

is

bleeder screw at the caliper or wheel and submerge the other end in a container of brake fluid; build up pressure in the lines with the brake pedal and open the bleeder screw - air expelled from the lines is visible as bubbles; when the bubbles disappear, you've bled the line to cylinder

hot.

13

Note: Bleeding the hydraulic system

bleeding the brakes, push one

of a clear plastic tube onto the

master cylinder reservoir frequently. 12 Never use old brake fluid. It contains moisture which will deteriorate the brake system components and boil when the fluid gets

7994 and later ABS-equipped vehicles require the use of a special electronic tool (DRB-II scan tool or equivalent) to bleed the ABS modulator assembly. For this reason, any repairs to, or bleeding of, the system should be left to an authorized dealership 3:

end

the container (see illustration).

slowly a few times to get pressure

brakes (see Section

9

fluid in

When

9.8

probably be necessary to bleed the

1 The rear drum brakes must be in proper working order before adjusting the parking

brake (see Section

5).

10.4

Turn this nut to adjust the parking brake (1989 and earlier models)

Chapter 9

Push

10.8

in

9-15

Brakes

on the tabs (arrows) with a small screwdriver while pulling the cover straight down

10.10

1990 and later model adjusting nut (arrow)

MAKE MARK HERE

Loosen the nut until the rear wheels turn then back it off an additional two full

7

6MM

freely,

turns.

10.12 With the cable slack and the parking brake applied, mark the adjuster at the point shown (1990 and later models)

1990 and later models Refer to

illustrations 10.8,

10.10 and 10.12

Detach the cover from the adjuster

8

housing (see illustration). Clean and lubricate the adjuster threads. 10 Make sure the parking brake is released

9

and back is

off

the adjusting nut

until

WASHER

the cable

ADJUSTING NUT

slack (see illustration).

11

the

12

Apply the parking brake

all

the

way

to

floor.

ment mark

Mark the bent

nail

portion of the adjuster

with white paint approximately 1/4-inch (6 mm) from the bracket (see illustration).

13

Tighten the adjusting nut

FRONT CABLE ASSEMBLY

until

the align-

bracket.

the

way

If

is

even with the edge of the nail end hook extends all

the bent

into the bracket, replace

it

with a

new

one.

All

models

15

Apply and release the parking brake

several times to

14

Install

1 1

make

sure

operates prop-

it

must lock the rear wheels when applied and the wheels must turn easily, without dragging, when it's released. 16 Lower the vehicle.

erly.

the cover.

1 989 and earlier model parking brake cable installation details

It

.8

11

Parking brake cables

and

-

removal

installation

CABLE ASSEMBLY INTERMEDIATE 1 it

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support securely on jackstands.

1989 and earlier models REAR CABLE ASSEMBLY LEFT

Front cable Refer to 2

illustration 11.8

Working under the

adjusting nut

until

vehicle, loosen the

there's slack

in

the cable

9

(see illustration 10.4). CABLE

3

ADJUSTING HOOK

Disengage the

front cable

from the con-

nector.

4

Loosen the cable housing retainers from rail bracket and the parking brake

the frame

GUIDE BRACKET

pedal assembly. 5 From inside the vehicle, lift up the driver's side floor mat and detach the rubber seal from the hole. Pull up on the forward end of the front 6 cable to disconnect it. Pull the cable assembly through the hole 7 in

the floor.

Installation is the reverse of removal 8 (see illustration).

9-16

Brakes

Chapter 9

CABLE GUIDE

GLIDE RETAINER

(ll

VIEW IN DIRECTION OF ARROW Y WHEEL BASE SHOWN) (SAAAE AS AAAIN VIEW EXCEPT AS SHOWN) 9*

FRONT CABLE

COVER

1990 and

11.21

9

Adjust the parking brake (see Sec-

tion 10).

Rear cable 10 Remove

the rear wheel and the hub/drum assembly on the side of the vehicle the cable to be replaced is located (see Chapter 1). 1 Back off the adjusting nut (see illustration 10.4) until the cable is slack and detach the cable from the connector. 1

Disconnect the

clip

from the brake cable

bracket.

13 Disconnect the cable from the parking brake lever on the brake shoe. 1 Locate the retainer at the end of the rear cable, where it enters the brake shoe backing plate.

Pinch this retainer with pliers

hose clamp) and

use a

until

there's slack

in

the cable

gers, then pulling the cable out.

and cable housing from the anchor bracket by sliding a 14 mm box wrench over the cable housing retainer end to compress the

31

three fingers, then pulling the cable housing out.

Detach the cable guide brackets from rail and loosen the cable housing at the pedal assembly (see illustration). From inside the vehicle, lift up the 22 driver's side floor mat and detach the rubber 21

the frame

seal from the hole.

23

Pull

cable end forward, then disconnect

Tap the end of the the pedal assembly

the button from the clevis.

cable housing out of bracket.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

26

Adjust the parking brake (see Sec-

detach

in

it

from the bracket located

other rear cable. Installation is the reverse of

(see illustration 11.8). 18 Adjust the parking

removal

brake (see Sec-

tion 10).

1990 and later models Front cable Refer to

illustration 11.21

Working under the

the

Remove any

cable wrap-around clips. Detach the cable guide wires (see illus-

tration 11.21).

Disconnect the cable from the brake 32 shoe lever. 33 Locate the retainer at the end of the rear cable, where it enters the brake shoe backing plate. Pinch this retainer with pliers (or use a hose clamp) and pull the cable through the backing plate and detach it from the bracket under the spring. 34 The above procedure also applies to the other rear cable.

35 36

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Adjust the parking brake (see Sec-

the cable assembly through the hole

floor.

12

tion 10).

Rear cable 27 Remove the rear wheel and the hub/drum assembly on the side of the vehicle the cable to be replaced is located (see Chapter 1). 28 Back off the adjusting nut (see illustration 10.10) until the cable is slack and detach the cable from the equalizer (see

Power brake booster - check, removal and installation

Note: This procedure does not apply equipped models.

to

ABS-

Operating check 1 If

Depress the pedal and the pedal goes

down

start the engine.

slightly,

operation

is

normal.

Depress the brake pedal several times and make sure there's no change in the pedal reserve distance.

illustration 10.12).

2

Disconnect the cable from the anchor bracket by sliding a 14 mm box wrench over

with the engine running

29 vehicle, loosen the

Pull

30

fin-

tion 10).

25

plate.

the retainer end to compress the three

(see illustration 10.10). Detach the front cable from the adjuster 20

After pulling the cable through the back-

pull

under the spring. 16 The above procedure also applies to the

19

adjusting nut

installation details

24

ing plate,

17

model parking brake cable

the retainer through the

backing 1

(or

later

9-17

Brakes

Chapter 9

Now

3

SWITCH BRACKET

STRIKER

use the

test light to verify that

the wire between the switch and the brake lights when the brake pedal is not depressed.

there's no voltage

a)

b)

NUT AND WASHER

there

(see below).

If

there isn 't,

Now

4

the switch

If it

the test

is,

in

is

proceed

shorted

-

replace

to the next Step.

depress the brake pedal and use voltage

light to verify that there's

in

the wire between the switch and the brake lights.

a)

If

there

the switch

is,

normally

-

between the switch and b)

If

there isn 't, the switch

replace

PEDAL

it

functioning

itself is

the problem

is

somewhere

the brake lights. is

has an open

-

(see below).

Replacement Unplug the electrical connector. Grasp the switch securely and unplug it 6 from the switch bracket. 7 To install the new switch, insert it into the switch bracket and plug in the electrical 5

Installation details of

13.1

the brake light switch CLIP

connector.

need a

Airtightness check and turn it off after one or two minutes. Slowly depress the brake pedal several times. If the pedal goes down 3

Start the engine

time but gradually rises after the second or third depression, the booster is farther the

4 Depress the brake pedal while the engine is running, then stop the engine with the pedal depressed. If there's no change in the pedal reserve travel (distance between the pedal and the floor) after holding the

pedal for 30 seconds, the booster

Power brake booster

units should not

be disassembled. They require special tools in most service stations or shops. They're fairly complex and because of their critical relationship to brake perforunit with

a

Slide the booster straight out until the

11

studs clear the holes and

(along with any engine compart-

best to replace a defective booster

new

ment. Lubricate the bearing surfaces of the 12 brake pedal pin and the tip of the pushrod with multi-purpose grease. 13 Install the booster, along with any previ-

The brake pedal

and

a

install

new

retainer

14

Disconnect the hose between the engine and the booster. Make sure you don't damage this hose when removing it from the booster fitting. 8 On vehicles with a manual transaxle, remove the clutch cable mounting bracket. Also push aside the wiring harness on the you need more room, unplug the harness at the bulkhead multi-connector. Working under the dash, position a 9 small screwdriver between the center tang on the retainer clip and the pin in the brake pedal, then rotate the screwdriver enough to allow the retainer clip center tang to pass over the end of the brake pedal pin and pull it from the pin. Disconnect the pushrod from the pedal pin. Discard the retainer clip and use a new one on reassembly. 10 Remove the nuts and washers holding the brake booster to the firewall. You may

will

far

as

will

it

move forward

slightly.

Gently

9 (very

little

pull

back on the brake pedal

movement

needed). This brings

is

the plunger toward the switch

until

the brake

pedal can't go any further. The switch then

backward

ratchets

further adjustment

to the correct position. is

14

No

necessary.

ously installed gaskets. Connect the pushrod to the pedal pin

Anti-lock Brake

System (ABS)

-

general information The remainder

of installation

is

the

reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the

booster mounting nuts to the torque listed in Chapter's Specifications. 15 Adjust the brake light switch (see Sec-

this

Refer to

illustrations 14. la

and

14.

1b

Description Some 1991 and

later models have an Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) designed to

tion 13).

maintain vehicle maneuverability, directional

13

or rebuilt one.

7

If

Push the switch forward as

go.

lift it

installed gaskets) out of the

To remove the booster, first remove the 6 brake master cylinder (see Section 7).

shock tower.

8

clip.

not normally found

it's

up under

the dash.

is airtight.

Removal and installation

mance

they're

first

airtight.

5

see them

light to

-

Brake light switch replacement

Refer to

is

check and

illustration 13.

The brake

1

-

light

line

switch (see illustration)

located under the dash, at the upper end of

the brake pedal assembly.

A

ward, releasing the plunger, which closes the

brake

pressure to the wheels during braking.

This prevents the wheels from locking up pre-

maturely during hard braking.

plunger on the

switch is in constant contact with a striker at the top of the pedal assembly. When the pedal is depressed, the striker moves forcircuit to the

and optimum deceleration under severe braking conditions on most road surfaces. It does so by monitoring the rotational speed of the wheels and controlling the brake stability

Components Pump The pump, which

9 is

driven by an electric

motor, provides high-pressure brake fluid to it is stored in

lights.

the hydraulic assembly, where

Check

the hydraulic bladder accumulator.

Note: Refer to the Wiring Diagrams at the end

Hydraulic assembly (1991 through 1993)

of Chapter 12.

Use a

2

age

in

test light to verify that there's volt-

the wire between the battery and the

switch. a)

If

there isn

fix it

b)

If

't,

find the short or

open and

(see Chapter 12).

there

is,

proceed

to the

next Step.

The

integral hydraulic

assembly includes

a booster/master cylinder, modulator, hydraulic bladder accumulator and fluid reserBasically, the assembly regulates voir. hydraulic pressure (stored in the accumulator) to

meet the demands

of the braking sys-

9-18

Chapter 9

Brakes

14.1a Anti-lock Brake System

components

(1991 through 1993)

Integrated actuator,

1

modulator assembly Wheel speed sensor

2 3 4

Electronic control unit

5 6

Disc brakes

7

Drum brakes

Motor pump assembly

Wheel speed sensor

|l231-9-14.1aHAYNES|

tem. The hydraulic assembly is located on the firewall on the driver's side of the vehicle

speed sensors

(see illustrations).

unit also constantly monitors the system, even under normal driving conditions, to find

Modulator assembly (1994 and

to control the hydraulic line

pressure, avoiding wheel lock up.

The

control

system. If a problem develops within the system, the Brake Warning light will glow on the dashboard. A diagnostic code will also be stored, which, when retrieved by a service technician, will indicate the problem area or faults with the

later)

The 1994 and later system uses a standard master cylinder and vacuum booster. The modulator assembly contains the electronic valves used for brake pressure modulation, the hydraulic brake fluid accumulators and the pump/motor assembly. The modulator assembly is located along the left front frame rail, underneath the battery.

left

is

mounted

in

can perform a few preliminary checks before taking the vehicle to a dealer service depart-

ment which a)

b)

Wheel speed sensors A speed sensor

tional

is

equipped with

Make sure

is

mounted

Check

this tester.

calipers and good condition.

the brakes,

wheel cylinders are

in

the electrical connectors at the

electronic control unit. at

each

electronic control unit indicating wheel rota-

engine compartment and is the "brain" for the system. The function of the control unit is to accept and process information received from the wheel the

probably malfunctioning. Although a speelectronic tester is necessary to properly diagnose the system, the home mechanic is

cial

component.

wheel. The speed sensors send signals to the

Electronic control unit The electronic control unit

is not applied and there's no problem with the brake hydraulic system. If neither of these is the cause the ABS system

parking brake

speed.

front corner of the

Diagnosis and repair

Check the fuses. d Follow the wiring harness

c)

wiring isn 't If

If the Brake Warning light on the dashboard comes on and stays on, make sure the

to the

speed

sensors and brake light switch and make sure all connections are secure and the

damaged.

the above preliminary checks don't

rectify the problem, the vehicle should be diagnosed by a dealer service department.

14.1b Anti-lock Brake System

components (1994 and 1

2 3 4

5

6

later)

Wheel speed sensor Electronic control unit

Modulator assembly Disc brakes Wheel speed sensor Drum brakes

10-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems Contents

Section Balljoints

-

check and replacement

See Chapter

Chassis lubrication Control arm

-

7

removal, inspection and installation

Front end alignment

-

Front stabilizer bar

removal and

-

general information

5

20 4

installation

General information

Power steering pump - removal and installation Power steering system - bleeding Rear hub/drum assembly - removal and installation Rear leaf springs and axle - removal and installation Rear shock absorbers - removal and installation Rear sway bar (1991 and later models) - removal and installation Rear spindle - inspection, removal and installation

1

1 1

18 9

12

8

Section Rear wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment Steering and suspension checks Steering gear boots - replacement Steering gear - removal and installation Steering knuckle and hub - removal, inspection and installation Steering wheel - removal and installation Strut assembly - removal and installation Strut - replacement Tie-rod ends - removal and installation Tire and tire pressure checks Tire rotation

11

Wheels and

tires

-

general information

See Chapter See Chapter

1 1

15 16 6 13 2

3 14

See Chapter See Chapter

1

1

19

10

Specifications

Torque specifications Front suspension Balljoint clamp bolt/nut 1990 and earlier 1991 and later Driveaxle hub nut Bolt-on hub unit bolt Control arm

Ft-ibs

70 105

See Chapter 8 45

Pivot bolt nut(s)

1990 and earlier 1991 and later Stub strut nut

105 125 70

Stabilizer bar bolts

1990 and earlier 1991 and later Strut assembly Strut-to-steering knuckle nuts

Upper mounting nuts

25 50 75 20

10

10-2

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Torque specifications (continued)

Ft-ibs

Rear suspension Leaf spring

Rear shackle nuts U-boltnuts

35 60 100 45

Front pivot bolt nut Front hanger-to-frame bolts

Shock absorber mounting Upper 1984 1985 and Lower 1984 1985 and

Sway

bolts

later

50 85

later

50 80

bar

Spindle/brake assembly mounting bolts

45 45 45 25 80

Steering Crossmember mounting Tie-rod end jam nut

90 55

Bushing retainer-to-axle bracket bolts Link arm-to-frame rail bracket bolt/nut Link arm-to-bar bolt/nut Link

arm bracket-to-frame

rail

bolts

bolts

Steering gear mounting bolts/nuts

1988 and 1989 and

earlier

21

later

50 45 35 to 38 See Chapter

Steering wheel retaining nut Tie-rod end-to-steering knuckle nut

Wheel

lug nuts

1.1

1

2

Steering Strut

arm

assembly

Front suspension

3 4

Stabilizer

components

bar

Power steering

1

lines

5

Steering gear

6

Control arm

10-3

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

1.2

Shock absorber

2

Leaf spring

1

to

General information

Rear suspension components

soak

in

for a while.

clean exposed threads

3

Using a wire brush to will also ease removal

and prevent damage to the Sometimes a sharp blow with a hammer and punch will break the bond between a nut and bolt threads, but care must be taken to prevent the punch from slipping off the fastener and ruining the of the nut or bolt

Refer to

illustrations

1. 1

and

straighten

any suspension or steering compoany bent or damaged

nents. Instead, replace

part with a

new one.

threads.

1.2

is by MacPherson The steering knuckle is located by a control arm and both front control arms are

Front suspension

struts.

connected by a

Axle

stabilizer bar (see illustra-

Strut

assembly

removal and

installation

threads. Heating the stuck fastener and sur-

tion).

The

rear suspension features a tubular

axle with

Damping

leaf

springs (see illustration).

handled by vertically-mounted shock absorbers located between the axle and the chassis. Some later models are equipped with a rear stabilizer bar. The rack-and-pinion steering gear is located behind the engine and actuates the steering arms which are integral with the is

steering knuckles.

Power

and the steering column lapse

in

is

assist

is

optional

designed to col-

rounding area with a torch sometimes helps recommended because of the obvious dangers associated with fire. Long breaker bars and extension, or "cheater", pipes will increase leverage, but never use an extension pipe on a ratchet - the ratcheting mechanism could be damaged. Sometimes too, but isn't

tightening the nut or bolt

break

measures

tools available

when beginning

Frequently,

work.

when working on

the sus-

pension or steering system components, you may come across fasteners which seem impossible to loosen. These fasteners on the underside of the vehicle are continually subjected to water, road grime, mud, etc., and

can become rusted or frozen, making them extremely difficult to remove. In order to unscrew these stubborn fasteners without damaging them (or other components), be sure to use lots of penetrating oil and allow it

in

first will

illustrations 2.3, 2.5, 2.6

1

Loosen the

2

Raise the vehicle and support

front

wheel lug nuts. it

securely

on jackstands. Remove the front wheels. 3 Mark the relationship of the cam bolt to the steering knuckle (see illustration).

help to

loose. Fasteners that require drastic to

replaced with

the event of an accident.

Wore: These vehicles use a combination of standard and metric fasteners on the various suspension and steering components, so it would be a good idea to have both types of

it

Refer to

remove should always be new ones.

Since most of the procedures dealt with Chapter involve jacking up the vehicle

this

and working underneath

it,

a

good

pair of

jackstands will be needed. A hydraulic floor jack is the preferred type of jack to lift the vehicle, and it can also be used to support certain components during various operations. Warning: Never, under any circum-

10

stances, rely on a jack to support the vehicle while working on it. Whenever any of the suspension or steering fasteners are loosened or removed they must be inspected and, if necessary, replaced with new ones of the same

number or of original equipment quality and design. Torque specifications must be followed for proper reassembly and compo-

part

nent retention. Never attempt to heat or

2.3 Paint or scribe an alignment mark across the cam bolt and the knuckle itself to ensure proper realignment of the strut and knuckle on reassembly

10-4

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Remove

4

the strut-to-steering knuckle

and washer

nuts, bolts

plate.

Disconnect the brake hose bracket from the strut (see illustration). 6 Remove the upper mounting nuts (see illustration), disengage the strut from the steering knuckle and detach it from the vehi5

cle.

7 Inspect the strut and coil spring assembly for leaking fluid, dents, damage and corrosion. If the strut is leaking or damaged, see Sec-tion 3.

To

8

install

the strut, place

it

in

position

with the studs extending up through the

shock tower.

Install

the nuts and tighten them

to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi-

cations.

9

Attach the strut to the steering knuckle,

then insert the strut-to-steering knuckle bolts

and washer

Specifications.

Attach the brake hose bracket to the

strut.

12

Install

the wheels and lower the vehicle.

It would be a good idea to have the front wheel alignment checked by an alignment

shop.

3

Strut

Refer to

-

replacement

illustrations 3.4, 3.5

and 3.6

Note: You'll need a spring compressor for this procedure. Spring compressors are available on a daily rental basis at most auto parts stores or equipment yards. If

damping

chipped, sagging or cracked coil springs) explore all options before beginning any work. The strut insert capability,

this bolt (arrow)

and detach

2.6

Working in the engine compartment, remove these three upper mounting nuts (arrows)

assemblies are not serviceable and must be replaced if a problem develops. However, strut assemblies complete with springs may be available on an exchange basis, which eliminates much time and work. Whichever route you choose to take, check on the cost and availability of parts before disassembling your vehicle. Warning: Disassembling a strut assembly is a potentially dangerous undertaking and utmost attention must be directed to the job at hand, or serious bodily injury may result. Use only a high-quality spring compressor and carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions furnished with the tool. After removing the coil spring from the strut assembly, set it aside in a safe, isolated area (a

2

steel cabinet

Remove

(see Section

3

the struts or coil springs exhibit the telltale signs of wear (leaking fluid, loss of 1

Remove

the brake hose bracket from the strut

the

Align

11

2.5

plate.

marks you made on the knuckle and strut. Install the nuts on the strut-to-steering knuckle bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter's 10

is

preferred).

the strut and spring assembly

2).

Mount the

strut

assembly

in

a

vise. Line

the vise jaws with

wood

damage

and don't tighten the

to the unit

or rags to prevent vise

excessively.

until

spring seat.

5

To loosen the damper

shaft nut, hold the

box-end wrench while loosening the shaft nut with another box-end wrench shaft with a

(see illustration). Disassemble the strut assembly and lay 6 out the parts in exactly the same order as shown (see illustration). Warning: When

removing the compressed spring, lift it off very carefully and set it in a safe place, such as a steel cabinet. Keep the ends of the

away from your body. Inspect all rubber parts for damage, cracking and hardness and replace as neces-

spring

7

sary.

8

Reassembly

bly.

Be

shaft or the strut spring,

is

the reverse of disassem-

damage the damper When installing the spring ends mesh with the

careful not to

will leak.

be sure the

spring anti-rotation stops provided by the

Install the spring compressor in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions

4

Install the spring compressor in accordance with the tool manufacturer's instructions and compress the spring until all pressure is relieved from the upper spring seat

(see illustration). Compress the spring

you can wiggle the mount assembly and

3.4

3.5

spring upper and lower seats.

To remove the damper shaft nut, hold the shaft in place with a box wrench and loosen the nut with another box wrench

10-5

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

SPACER AS REQUIRED]

SHOCK TOWER COIL

RETAINER

SPRING

BUMPER

and and retainers from both control arms

(on top of control arm, not visible)

CAM

3.6

An exploded view

of the front strut

Front stabilizer bar

-

removal and

installation

ers for distortion,

Refer to

illustrations 4.2

Loosen the

1

front

the front of the vehicle,

and 4.3 wheel lug nuts, raise support it securely on

jackstands and remove the front wheels.

Remove

2

the stabilizer bar retainer bolts,

nuts and retainers from the control arms (see

Support the stabilizer bar and remove 3 the stabilizer bar clamp bolts and clamps from the crossmember (see illustration). Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.

Check the bar

and signs

and removing them.

for

damage, corrosion

them open

Install

retain-

wear. Replace the

at the

new bush-

ings with the curved surface up and the

split

The removed by cutting them off or hammering them from the bar. Force the new bushings onto the end of the outer bushings can be

bar

until

1/2-inch of the bar

is

protruding.

Sili-

ease this process. 6 Attach the bar to the crossmember, then install the clamps, bolts and nuts, but don't tighten them completely yet. 7 Install the bushing retainers and bolts on the control arms, but don't tighten the bolts completely

of twisting.

BOLT

retainer bolts (arrows)

facing toward the front of the vehicle.

cone spray

illustration).

4

damage and

the inner bushings by prying split

remove these

assembly

Check the clamps, bushings and

5

4

Put a back-up wrench on each nut

4.2

DUST SHIELD

lubricant

Remove these clamp bolts (arrows) and both clamps from the crossmember

will

yet.

4.3

8

Raise the control arms to normal ride

height and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

the wheels and lower the vehicle.

9

Install

5

Control arm - removal, inspection and installation

Refer

to illustrations 5.3, 5.4a, 5.4b, 5.5, 5.9a

and 5.9b 1

Raise the front of the vehicle, support

it

securely on jackstands and remove the front

wheels.

Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the arms (see Section 4) and rotate the bar down, out of the way. 3 Remove the front pivot bolt and nut from the control arm (see illustration). 4 On earlier models, remove the rear stub strut nut, retainer and bushing (see illustration) from the control arm; on later models, remove the rear pivot bolt and nut (see illus2

control

5.3

Use

wrench to remove the and nut from the front of the

a back-up

pivot bolt

control

arm

5.4a

On

earlier

models, remove this nut

(arrow) from the stub strut at the rear of

the control

arm

10

10-6

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Using a back-up wrench, remove the pinch bolt and nut for the balljoint stud clamp at the bottom of the steering knuckle, then pull the control arm down to separate the stud from the knuckle

5.5

5.4b

On

later

models, remove this through bolt from the rear of the control

arm

tration) from the control arm.

5 Remove the balljoint pinch bolt and nut from the steering knuckle (see illustration). 6 Pull the balljoint stud from the steering knuckle. Caution: Do not move the steering knuckle/strut assembly out or rate the inner

7

Remove

you may sepa-

CV joint. the control arm by pulling

it

down and forward (earlier models) down (later models).

or straight

the special tools necessary to do the job.

Inspect the control arm for distortion and the bushings for wear, damage and deterioration. If the control arm is damaged or bent, replace it. If an inner pivot bushing or a balljoint are worn, have them replaced by a

arm must be replaced if the bushings are worn. You can replace damaged or worn stub strut bushings yourself. Simply slide them off the strut and slide on

dealer service department or repair shop with

Installation is the reverse of removal (see illustrations). Don't tighten the pivot bolt(s) and stub strut nut until the vehicle is at normal ride height. After you've installed the wheels and 10 lowered the vehicle so that its weight is on the suspension, tighten the pivot bolt and stub strut nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

8

NUT SLEEVE

BUSHING

RETAINER

Note:

Some bushings are not serviceable and

the entire control

the replacements. 9

CONTROL ARM STRUT

5.9a

An exploded view of typical arm components

earlier control

SWAY ELIMINATOR SHAFT SEAL

STEERING KNUCKLE

SCREW RETAINER

BALL JOINT

10-7

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

NUT

CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY

CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY

KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY

BOLT

5.9b

An exploded view

of typical later control

arm components

remove the hub cap, cotter and spring washer (if equipped). Loosen, but do not remove, the front hub (axle) nut and wheel lug nuts (see illustra-

washer. 4 Push the driveaxle in until it is free of the hub. It may be necessary to tap on the axle

tions).

dislodge the driveaxle from the hub.

front suspension,

Steering knuckle and hub removal, inspection and

6

-

pin, nut lock

installation

2

Removal Refer

to illustrations 6. 1a

and

6.

1b

it

wheels.

With the vehicle weight resting on the

1

Raise the front of the vehicle, support

securely on jackstands and remove the front

3

Remove

CAM

the

driveaxle

hub nut and

end with a brass

drift

punch and hammer

to

Remove the cotter pin and loosen the and use a puller to disconnect the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle (see Sec5

nut

tion 14).

STRUT DAMPER

BOLT NUT

(REFERENCE)

ADAPTOR SCREW AND WASHER

BRAKE CALIPER

An exploded view

6.1a

typical earlier

DRIVE SHAFT

of a

model

steering knuckle assembly

and related components

CLAMP BOLT COTTER PIN

LOWER CONTROL ARM

NUT LOCK

HUB NUT

(REFERENCE)

10

10-8

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems CAM

BOLT NUT

ADAPTOR SCREW AND WASHER

DRIVE

BRAKE CALIPER

SHAH

STEERING LINKAGE

6.1b

An exploded view

of a typical

model steering knuckle assembly and related components later

LOWER CONTROL ARM HUB NUT

NUT LOCK

WHEEL BOLT

Move the tie-rod out of the way and 6 secure it with a piece of wire. 7 Disconnect the brake hose bracket from the strut by removing the bolt and retainer (see illustration 2.5) Remove the caliper and brake pads (see 8

(REFERENCE)

the specified lubricant. Inspect the grease seals to

make

sure they are not torn or leak-

ing. Further disassembly will have to be left to your dealer service department or a repair shop because of the special tools required.

Bolt-on bearing unit

Some later model long-wheelbase moduse a sealed bolt-in front hub unit. Check the hub unit by rotating it to make sure it

piece of wire.

moves

Detach the

stabilizer bar retainer bolts

from the control arms (see Section the stabilizer bar

Remove

down and

4)

and

pull

out of the way.

washer equipped) from the wheel stud and pull 10

the

retainer

(if

off

the brake disc. 1

Mark the

strut-to-steering knuckle rela-

tionship (see Section

12

Remove

the balljoint pinch bolt and nut

and disengage the Section

balljoint

from the hub (see

5).

13

Remove

bolts

and nuts (see Sec-tion 5). With the knuckle and hub assembly

14

and

pull

it

directly out

and

it

in

off the driveaxle

Be careful not to pull the or you may disengage the inner

freely.

If

the hub

is

damaged, cor-

roded, or doesn't turn easily, remove the four bolts

and

Make

sure the recess

the hub unit off the knuckle.

lift

in

the knuckle

is

clean

and other damage. Place the new hub and bearing unit in position and install the bolts. Tighten the and

free of nicks, corrosion

bolts

in

a criss-cross pattern to the torque

Chapter's Specifications. The

manufacturer recommends that a new seal be installed on the back side of the knuckle whenever the hub unit is replaced.

17

Prior to installation, clean the

CV

18

If

and a new cotter pin. 27 With the weight of the vehicle on the suspension, check the steering knuckle and balljoint

there

is

too

little

grease, or

19

make

sure they are tightened

Have the vehicle

front

end alignment

7

Carefully place the knuckle

Install

8).

and hub

the knuckle-to-strut bolts and

balljoint pinch bolt and knuckle so that the marks you between the strut and the knuckle are

nuts, followed

by the

made

aligned. Install the

washer

plate

and nuts and

tighten the nuts to the torque listed

in

this

Chapter's Specifications.

20

Bailjoints - check and replacement

wear sleeve and seal contact surface

nut. Adjust the

if

contaminated with dirt, clean the bearings and inspect them for wear, scoring and looseness. Repack the bearings with

nuts to

properly.

Refer to 1

face and wipe it off with a lint-free cloth. Inspect the knuckle for rust, damage and cracks. Check the bearings by rotating them to make sure they move freely. The bearings should be packed with an adequate supply of is

in Chapter 1 With an assistant applying the brakes, tighten the hub nut to the torque specified in Chapter 8. Install the spring washer, nut lock

lug nuts to the torque specified

26

CV

assembly in position. Align the splines of the axle and the hub and slide the hub into place.

Place the assembly on a clean work sur-

the grease

24

joint

and the hub grease seal with solvent (don't get any solvent on the CV joint boot).

with multi-purpose grease (see Chapter

clean grease.

Attach the ends of the stabilizer bar to arms and tighten the retainer fasteners to the torque listed in this Chapter's

23

seal

joint

Pressed-in bearing

Reattach the brake hose bracket to the

checked.

driveaxle out

Inspection

9).

strut.

28

Lubricate the entire circumference of the

1

22

and

pads

Push the CV joint completely into the hub to make sure it is seated and install the washer and hub nut finger tight. Install the wheels, hand tighten the lug 25 nuts, lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel

splines. Caution:

CVjoint.

disc,

Specifications.

Installation

securely

brake

16

the steering knuckle-to-strut

the straight-ahead position, grasp

the

els

listed in this

2).

Install

caliper/adapter assembly (see Chapter

the control

Chapter 9), then remove the caliper mounting bracket from the steering knuckle. Taking care not to twist the brake hose, hang the caliper out of the way in the wheel well with a 9

21

Reattach the tie-rod end to the steering

knuckle, tighten the nut and ter pin (see

Section

14).

install

a

new

cot-

illustration 7.2

The suspension

bailjoints are

designed

to operate without freeplay.

2

To check

for

large screwdriver

wear, place a prybar or

between the control arm

and the underside of the steering knuckle and try to lever the knuckle from side to side (see illustration). 3 If there is any movement, the balljoint is worn and must be replaced with a new one. Remove the control arm (see Section 5) and take it to a dealer service department or auto-

motive machine shop to have the old balljoint pressed out and a new one pressed in.

Try to lever the steering knuckle from side to side with a prybar or

7.2

large screwdriver

Rear shock absorbers and installation

8

Refer to

illustrations 8.2, 8.3a

-

removal

and 8.3b

of

Rear hub/drum assembly removal and installation

-

is

Support the axle with jack and remove

Remove

3

the lower and upper shock

(see illustrations) detach the shock absorber. bolts

and

-

inspection,

Hold the new shock absorber in position the bolts. Tighten the upper bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications and the lower bolt snugly. Remove the 4

and

tool for removal. Be sure to mark the location of any spindle shims.

Place the shim(s)

7

install

jack, lower the vehicle

and tighten the lower

bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's

Specifications.

(if

equipped), spindle

and brake assembly in position, install the bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in Chapter's Specifications, following a

Connect the brake

installation

Remove

Install the hub/drum (see Section 9), bleed the brakes and adjust the parking brake (see Chapter 9).

the rear hub/drum (see Sec-

11

2 Clean the axle and inspect the bearing contact surfaces for wear and damage. The spindle should be replaced with a 3

new one

if it

is

bent,

damaged

Remove

Rear sway bar (1991 and models) - removal and

the four backing plate mount-

installation

and detach the brake assembly and The bolts may have Torx-type heads,

Refer to

illustration 11.2

Removal 1 it

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support securely on jackstands.

ing bolts

2

spindle.

bolts (see illustration).

FRAME

later

or worn.

4 Disconnect the parking brake cable from the brake assembly (see Chapter 9). Disconnect and plug the rear brake line 5 at the wheel cylinder (see Chapter 9). 6

and parking

9

Removal 1

line

brake cable.

tion 9).

Installation

.

which require a special

8

Rear spindle removal and

the rear wheels (see illustration).

mounting

the lower shock absorber bolt

criss-cross pattern.

10

stands.

Remove

.

this

Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the rear the vehicle and support it securely on jack-

2

8.3a

Installation

covered in Chapter 1 as a part of the Rear wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment procedure. This procedure

Removal 1

8.2 When removing the shock absorbers, the axle must be raised slightly to remove tension from the shocks - this is easily done with a jack

9

10-9

Suspension and steering systems

Chapter 10

LINK

Remove

the two lower

sway bar

link

arm

ARM

RAIL

To remove the sway remove the lower bolt from each link arm, loosen the two bolts on each 11.2 bar,

bushing retainer, support the

sway bar and remove the retainer bolts

REAR AXLE

BRAKE DRUM

8.3b

.

.

.

followed by the upper bolt

l~FW^>

REAR SPRING

SWAY BAR BUSHING RETAINER

10

10-10

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

12.3 Mark the nut location (arrow), remove the nut and bolt, then disconnect

Remove

12.5

the U-bolt nuts (arrows)

12.7

Remove the

spring shackle nuts (arrows)

the proportioning valve link

12 3

Loosen the four sway bar bushing

parking brake cables and brake hoses from

Rear leaf springs and axle removal and installation

the axle (see Chapter 4

retainer bolts.

Hold the sway bar in place, remove the bushing retainer bolts, then lower the sway bar from the vehicle.

5

ger

6

link

arms with the

bolts fin-

tight.

Place the sway bar install

illustrations 12.3, 12.5, 12.7

slits in

in

position on the

the bushings facing up

the bolts finger

beginning of

this

12.8

6

Loosen the

wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on 2

rear

Remove

the rear wheels.

Jack up the rear axle

the weight

is

Section at the

Chapter.

3

If

5

Remove

the nuts and detach the U-

bolts (see illustration).

off

slightly, just until

the rear springs, then sup-

port the axle at this height with jackstands.

tight.

Lower the vehicle weight onto the suspension and tighten the bolts to the torque 7

listed in the Specifications

and

Removal jackstands.

axle with the

and

Refer to

1

Connect the

9).

the bolts from the lower ends of

the shock absorbers.

4

Installation

Remove

to

Lower the hang free.

rear axle, allowing the springs

7 Remove the nuts and detach the spring shackles (see illustration).

Remove the front spring hanger bolts and lower the springs from the vehicle (see 8

illustration).

the springs are being removed, dis-

connect the brake proportioning valve

link

from the left side spring (see illustration). If you're removing the rear axle, disconnect the

BUMPER ASSEMBLY

Installation 9

Raise the front ends of the springs into

position

and

install

the spring hanger bolts.

HANGER INSERT

BUSHINGS

SHACKLE

12.8 Rear spring and axle assembly installation details

*^\ SPRING

HANGER

X

ACTUATOR BRACKET ASSEMBLY

SHOCK ABSORBER

SPINDLE

10-11

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

13.4 13.3

Tighten the bolts to the torque listed

in

this

Chapter's Specifications. Connect the brake proportioning valve

link to

the marked posi-

shaft

After you've

proper alignment at reassembly

and hub

to simplify installation (see

illustration).

Use a bolt-type

5

puller to

remove the

tion.

steering wheel (see illustration). Caution:

10 Raise the rear end of the spring into place and connect the shackles, with the

steering wheel.

nuts finger

Do not hammer on To

6

tight.

Raise the axle with the jack until it is centered under the center bolt, install the U11

bolts, plate and nuts. Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 12 Connect the lower ends of the shock

absorbers and install the bolts finger tight. Connect the brake hoses and cables, if disconnected. Install the wheels. 13 Lower the vehicle weight onto the suspension and tighten the front pivot bolt (if loosened), shock absorber bolts and shackle nuts to the torques listed in this Chapter's

removed the steering wheel nut, mark the hub to the shaft to ensure

relationship of the steering wheel

Turn the center pad over and unplug the horn wires (arrows)

install

the shaft to

remove

the

the wheel, align the mark on

the steering wheel hub with the mark

made

on the shaft during removal and slip the wheel onto the shaft. Install the hub nut (and damper if removed) and tighten it to the torque

listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

the center pad assembly.

7

Install

8

Connect the negative battery cable.

14

Tie-rod ends

-

removal and

installation 13.5

14

If

the brake hoses were disconnected,

bleed the brakes (see Chapter

Refer to 14.3b

Steering wheel

illustrations 14.2a, 14.2b, 14.3a

and

9). 1

13

Use a bolt-type puller like this one remove the steering wheel

to

Specifications.

removal and

installation

Raise the front of the vehicle, support

it

2

Remove

the tie-rod-to-steering knuckle

securely on jackstands, block the rear

cotter pin, loosen the nut, then disconnect

wheels and set the parking brake. Remove

the tie-rod from the steering knuckle with a

the front wheels.

puller (see illustrations).

Warning: 1991 and later models are equipped with an air bag. To avoid possible damage to this system, on these models the following procedure should be left to a dealer service department because of the special tools and techniques required. Refer to 1

illustrations 13.3, 13.4

and

13.5

Disconnect the negative cable

battery. Place the cable out of the

cannot accidentally

come

at the

way so

it

10

contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical in

system of the vehicle. Disconnect the center pad assembly by 2 unscrewing the two screws at the back of the steering wheel.

and mark the relationship

14.2b install a puller and separate the tie-rod end from the knuckle; note how the nut is still in place, loosened a few turns - this will prevent the components from separating violently .

Disconnect the horn wires and remove the center pad assembly (see illustration). 4 Remove the steering wheel retaining nut 3

of the steering

To disconnect the

end from the steering knuckle, remove the cotter pin and loosen the 14.2a

castellated nut,

.

tie-rod

.

.

.

10-12

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Using a back-up wrench on the tie-rod end, loosen the jam nut with another wrench

14.3a

.

14.3b

.

.

.

.

then paint an alignment mark on the threads of the rod to mark the position of the tie-rod end

Loosen the jam nut (see illustration), mark the position of the tie-rod end on the tie-rod (see illustration), unscrew the tie-rod end and remove it. 4 To install the tie-rod end, thread onto the rod to the marked position and tighten the jam nut securely. Connect the tie-rod end to the steering 5 knuckle, install the nut and tighten it to the

tie-

3

it

torque

listed in this

Steering gear boot replacement details

15.4

Chapter's Specifications.

a new cotter pin. Have the front end alignment checked

Install

6

•J

BOOT SEAL ( -^BOOT CLAMP 0C*a(OUTER) ^^"-JAM NUT

by a dealer service department or an align-

ment shop.

BOOT CLAMP 15

(INNER)

USE LUBE HERE

Steering gear boots

replacement Refer to

illustration 15.4

Raise the vehicle and support it securely 1 on jackstands. Remove the tie-rod end (see Sec2

always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the instrument panel or steering column to avoid the possibility

of accidental deployment of the airbag,

which could cause personal

drain the fluid into a container.

the

Remove

the boot clamp(s).

Mark the location of the breather tube on the boot (if the same boot will be reinstalled), use a small screwdriver to lift the boot out of the groove in the steering gear and remove the boot (see illustration).

Remove

8

the steering gear mounting and separate it from

bolts (see illustration)

injury.

tion 14).

3

7 On power-steering-equipped models, disconnect the lines (see illustration) and

Removal

crossmember by withdrawing

it

to the

left

side of the vehicle.

4

5

Prior to installation, lubricate the boot

groove

for the steering tie-rod with silicone-

new boot

Slide the

steering gear until install

a

new

breather tube

1

it

in

inner clamp. fits

securely

7

Install

the clamp(s).

8

Install

the tie-rod end.

9 10

Lower the

vehicle.

Have the

front

in

it

Installation

lug nuts, raise the

securely on jackstands and

remove the front wheels. Disconnect the tie-rod ends from the

2

steering knuckles (see Section 14).

Support the front crossmember with a

on the the groove and

jack (see illustration). Disconnect the engine

Make

equipped).

into position

seats

Loosen the wheel

vehicle, support

3

type grease.

6

Refer to illustrations 16.3, 16.7 and 16.8

sure the

the boot.

end alignment checked by a dealer service department or an alignment shop.

damper 4

strut

from the crossmember

(if

so

Remove

the four

bolts

holding

the

shaft of the steering column.

6

Remove

the boot that protects the U-

Mark the

relationship of the U-joint to

it can be re-connected the same way. Remove the pinch bolt from the U-joint. Lower the crossmember a little farther to separate the U-joint from the

the intermediate shaft so

16

Steering gear

removal and

installation

intermediate shaft (the U-joint stays with the

Warning: On

air

bag-equipped models,

steering gear).

Position the steering gear

member, bolts

install

on the cross-

the steering gear mounting

and tighten them securely.

10 Raise the crossmember and steering gear into position with the jack. 11

On power

reconnect the

steering equipped models,

lines.

Use new O-rings on the

fittings.

crossmember to the body. Lower the jack and crossmember far 5 enough to gain access to the U-joint between the steering input shaft and the intermediate

joint.

9

Connect the

U-joint to the intermediate

shaft, aligning the

marks made on disassem-

12 bly.

13 14

Install

the U-joint pinch bolt.

Install

the U-joint boot.

15

Install

the four

crossmember

starting with the right rear bolt, pilot bolt

-

bolts

which

is

-

the

and tighten them securely. Con-

damper strut (if so equipped). 16 Attach the tie-rod ends to the steering knuckles (see Section 14). Install the front wheels and lower the 17 nect the engine

vehicle.

18

On power

steering equipped models,

10-13

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems TIE

ROD ADJUSTING NUT (2)

AND WASHER

BOLT

ASSEMBLY

BOLT

(2)

AND WASHER

ASSEMBLY

(2)

COTTER PIN

(2)

STEERING GEAR

BRACKET

VIEW

An exploded view

16.3

IN CIRCLE Z

of the steering gear

start the engine and bleed the steering system (see Section 18). While the engine is running, check for leaks at the hose connections.

19 Have the front end alignment checked by a dealer service department or an align-

ment shop.

assembly and related components

remove the drivebelt adjusting lock screw from the front of the pump. 7 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 8 Disconnect the pump return hose and drain the fluid from the pump into a container. While the pump is draining, remove the 9 right side splash shield that protects the 16.7

drivebelts.

Power

17

and

steering

pump - removal

installation

Disconnect both hoses from the pump. Cap all open hose ends to prevent contami10

nation.

Loosen the two lower pump mounting - a bolt and a stud nut, disconnect the drivebelt, then remove the fasteners. 12 To remove the pump, move rearward to clear the mounting bracket, then remove the bracket. Then rotate the pump clockwise 11

Note: Metric fasteners are used on the power steering

pump.

fasteners

On models

with

power

steering,

disconnect these two line fittings (arrows) - the lower arrow points at one of the two driver's side mounting bolts for the steering gear (the other one, not visible in this photo, is right behind it, on the back side of the steering gear assembly)

it

Models with 2.6L engine 1 Open the hood and place a container under the pump for fluid to drain into. Disconnect and plug the power steering pump hoses at the pump. Plug the pump ports. 2 Loosen the pump pivot and adjustment bolts and detach the drivebelt (see Chap-

ter

1).

3

Remove

the

bolts

mounting bracket and

from lift

the

pump pump and the

until

the

pump

pulley faces

the vehicle and

13

pull

Installation

Make

is

the

toward the rear of

pump up and

out.

the reverse of removal.

sure the tab on the mounting bracket

is

mounting hole. Be sure to use new O-rings when you attach the hoses to the pump. Don't tighten the fastenin

the lower

ers

until

left

front

10

you've adjusted the belt tension.

bracket from the engine compartment

4

Installation

Use new O-rings

All 5

the reverse of removal. hose connections.

other models Open

the

wires from the

switch

6

is

at the

(if

hood and disconnect the two air

conditioner clutch cycling

equipped).

On models so equipped, loosen and

All

models

14

Adjust the belt to the proper tension

and tighten the fasteners.

(see Chapter

I)

15

pump

Fill

the

(see Chapter

with the specified fluid

1).

16 Start the engine, bleed the air from the system (see Section 18) and check the fluid level.

16.8

The two passenger's side steering gear mounting bolts (arrows)

10-14

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Power

18

steering system

bleeding

-

METRIC TIRE SIZES /

any operation where the power steering fluid lines have been disconnected, the power steering system must be bled to remove all air and obtain proper Following

1

With the front wheels

2

ahead

check the power steering (see Chapter 1). If it's low, add

3

(MILLIMETERS) Start the engine

and allow

Recheck the fluid level and add more, if necessary. Bleed the system by turning the wheels 4 from side-to-side, without hitting the stops. will

work the

the reservoir

full

air

out of the system.

of fluid as this

is

CONSTRUCTION TYPE R-RADIAL B-BIAS - BELTED

185 195 205

to run at

it

fast idle.

This

70 75 80

SECTION WIDTH

fluid.

(INCHES) 13 14 15

(SECTION HEIGHT) (SECTION WIDTH)

position,

fluid level

RIM DIAMETER

ASPECT RATIO

C-COMMERCIAL

the straight-

in

/

TIRE TYPE P-PASSENGER T-TEMPORARY

steering performance.

80

D-DIAGONAL

(BIAS)

ETC

Keep

done.

When the air is worked out of the sys5 tem, return the wheels to the straight-ahead position and leave the vehicle running for more minutes before shutting off. Road test the vehicle to make sure the

several

6

it

steering system

is

functioning normally and

noise free. 7

Recheck the

fluid level to

correct (see Chapter

19

Wheels and

make

sure

it's

1).

tires

-

general

information 19.1

Refer to

All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with metric-size fiberglass or steelbelted radial tires (see illustration). The

installation of different size or other

may cle.

Metric

code

tire size

illustration 19.

affect the ride

and handling

Don't mix different types of

type

tires

such as

and bias belted, on the same vehicle; handling may be seriously affected. Always try to replace tires in pairs on the same axle. However, if only one tire is being replaced, be sure it's the same size, structure and tread design as the other. Because tire pressure has a substantial effect on handling and wear, the pressure in all tires should be checked at least once a month or before any extended trips (see Chapter 1). Wheels must be replaced if they're bent, dented, leak air, have elongated bolt holes, are heavily rusted, out of vertical symmetry or if the lug nuts won't stay tight. Wheel repairs by welding or peening aren't recommended. Tire and wheel balance is important to the overall handling, braking and performance of the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely affect handling and ride char-

Whenever a tire is installed on a wheel, the tire and wheel should be balanced by a shop with the proper equipment.

life.

Front end alignment information

general

-

same as

edges

the distance between the rear

is

front

end alignment

refers to the

adjustments made to the front wheels so they're in proper angular relationship to the suspension and the ground. Front wheels that are out of proper alignment not only

ends on the tie-rods. cause the tires to wear improperly by making them scrub against the Incorrect toe-in

Camber

wear. The front end adjustments normally

the vehicle.

toe-in.

Getting the proper front wheel alignment is a very exacting process in which complicated and expensive machines are necessary to perform the job properly. Because of this, you should have a technician with the proper equipment perform these tasks. We will, however, use this space to give you a basic idea of what's involved with front end alignment so you can better understand the process and deal intelligently with the shop that does the work. Toe-in is the turning in of the front wheels. The purpose of a toe specification is to ensure parallel rolling of the front wheels. In a vehicle with zero toe-in, the distance between the front edges of the wheels will be

will

road surface.

from

camber and

controlled by the posi-

is

tions of the tie-rod

affect steering control, but also increase tire

required are

of

normally only a fraction of an inch.

Toe-in adjustment

A

The actual amount

of the wheels.

toe-in

of the vehi-

tires,

radials

acteristics as well as tire

the

20

top, the

When

is

the

of the front

tilting

when viewed from

vertical

When

camber

the wheels

is

wheels

the front of

tilt

out at the

said to be positive

(+).

camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from vertical - this measurement is called the camber angle. This angle affects the amount of tire tread contacting the road and compensates for changes in the suspension geometry when the vehicle is cornering the wheels

tilt

in at

the top the

or travelling over an undulating surface.

ber

is

adjusted with a

cam

bolt at

each

Camstrut-

to-steering knuckle joint.

Caster

is

the

tilting

of the top of the front

steering axis from vertical. rear front

is

positive caster is

negative

A

and a

caster.

adjustable on these vehicles.

toward the toward the Caster isn't

tilt

tilt

11-1

Chapter

1 1

Body

Contents Section

Body repair - major damage Body repair - minor damage Body - maintenance Bumpers - removal and installation

6 5 2

10

Console - removal and installation Dashboard panels - removal and installation Door latch, lock cylinder and outside handle - removal and installation Door trim panel - removal and installation Fixed glass - replacement Front door - removal and installation Front door window glass - removal and installation Front fender - removal and installation Engine splash shields - removal and installation

26 28

General information Hinged glass - removal and installation

18

20 24 12 1

8 13 1

1

Section Hinges and locks

maintenance Hood - removal, installation and adjustment Instrument cluster bezel - removal and installation Interior trim panels - removal and installation Liftgate - removal, installation and adjustment Liftgate strut replacement Lower dashboard panels - removal and installation Mirrors - removal and installation Radiator grille - removal and installation Seats - removal and installation Seat belt check Sliding door - removal, installation and adjustment Upholstery and carpets - maintenance Vinyl trim - maintenance Window regulator - removal and installation

the wheel wells, the frame and the engine

General information

compartment,

are

equally

important,

although they don't require as frequent atten-

These models feature a "unibody" layout, using a floor pan with front and rear frame side rails which support the body components, front and rear suspension systems and other mechanical components. Certain

tion

components are

carefully for rust,

accident repaired

particularly vulnerable to

damage and can be unbolted and or replaced. Among these parts are

the body moldings, bumpers, the hood and trunk lids and all glass. Only general body

as the rest of the body. Once a year, or every 1 2,000 miles, it's a good idea to have the underside of the body steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be removed and the area can then be inspected 2

dam-aged brake lines, frayed electrical wires, damaged cables and other problems. The front suspension components should be greased

after

same time, clean engine compartment

maintenance practices and body panel repair procedures within the scope of the do-it-

the

yourselfer are included

cleaner or water-soluble degreaser.

in this

Chapter.

At the

the engine and with

a

Body

-

maintenance

a neglected or damaged body than it is to repair mechanical components. The hidden areas of the body, such as

difficult to repair

21

27 25 29 30 14 4 3 19

can wear down the paint. Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up from 6 the road should be removed with a cloth soaked in solvent. 7 Once every six months, wax the body and chrome trim. If a chrome cleaner is used to remove rust from any of the vehicle's plated parts,

removes

remember

part of the

that the cleaner also

chrome, so use

it

spar-

ingly.

3

Vinyl trim

-

maintenance

Don't clean vinyl trim with detergents,

The wheel wells should be given close attention, since undercoating can peel away and stones and dirt thrown up by the tires can cause the paint to chip and flake, allow-

caustic soap or petroleum-based cleaners.

down

vehicle. After cleaning, application of a high-

ing rust to set

The condition of your vehicle's body is very important, because the resale value depends a great deal on it. It's much more 1

23 22 15 16

steam

4

2

9

completion

of this job.

3

7

-

in.

If

rust

is

found, clean

and apply an anti-rust paint. The body should be washed about once 5 a week. Wet the vehicle thoroughly to soften the dirt, then wash it down with a soft sponge and plenty of clean soapy water. If the surto the bare metal

plus

dirt is

not

washed

off very carefully,

it

soap and water works just fine, with a brush to clean dirt that may be ingrained. Wash the vinyl as frequently as the rest of the Plain

soft

quality rubber

and

vinyl protectant will help

prevent oxidation and cracks. The protectant

can also be applied to weatherstripping, vacuum lines and rubber hoses, which often fail as a result of chemical degradation, and to the

tires.

11

11-2

Chapter

1 1

Body

no point in trying to restore the original shape completely as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact and cannot be restored to its original contours. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a is

Upholstery and carpets

maintenance Every three months remove the carpets mats and clean the interior of the vehicle (more frequently if necessary). Vacuum the upholstery and carpets to remove loose dirt and dust. 1

or

Leather

2

upholstery

requires

special

be removed with warm water and a very mild soap solution. Use a clean, damp cloth to remove the soap, then wipe again with a dry cloth. Never use alcohol, gasoline, nail polish remover or thinner to care. Stains should

about 1/8-inch below the level of the surrounding metal. In cases where the dent is very shallow, it is not worth trying to point which

pull

it

out at

If the back side of the dent is accessible, can be hammered out gently from behind using a soft-face hammer. While doing this, hold a block of wood firmly against the opposite side of the metal to absorb the hammer blows and prevent the metal from being

stretched.

6

wax on

leather upholstery.

4

areas where the

is

In

the vehicle

interior of

subject to bright sunlight, cover leather if the vehicle is to be left

seats with a sheet

out for any length of time.

If the dent is in a section of the body which has double layers, or some other factor makes it inaccessible from behind, a different technique is required. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the damaged area, particularly in the deeper sections. Screw long, self tapping screws into the holes just

enough

Body

repair

minor damage

-

the scratch

and does not

penetrate to the metal of the body, repair

is

very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area with a fine rubbing

compound

loose paint and

up wax. Rinse the area

built

to

remove

with clean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch,

2

using a small brush. Continue to apply thin layers of paint until the surface of the paint in

the scratch paint.

new

paint at least

to harden, then blend

it

into the

two weeks

surrounding

paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing

compound.

Finally,

apply a coat of

wax

to the

scratch area. If the scratch has penetrated the paint and exposed the metal of the body, causing

the metal to rust, a different repair technique required.

bottom

Remove

all

loose rust from the

pocket

of the scratch with a

knife,

then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust

in

the future. Using a rubber

or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area filler. If required, the filler can be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin paste, which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the glaze filler in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton cloth around the tip of a finger. Dip the cloth in thinner and then quickly wipe it along the surface of the scratch. This will ensure

with glaze-type

that the surface of the

filler is

slightly hollow.

The scratch can now be painted over as described

in

the

The next stage

Repair of rust holes or gashes 8

Remove

earlier in this section.

all

paint from the affected area

and from an inch or so of the surrounding metal using a sanding disk or wire brush

mounted

3

is

grip

surrounding

level with the

is

Allow the

good

of paint

superficial

is

to get a

of repair is the removal from the damaged area and from an inch or so of the surrounding metal. This is easily done with a wire brush or sanding disk in a drill motor, although it can be done just as effectively by hand with sandpaper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or the tang of a file or drill small holes in the affected area. This will provide a good grip for the filler material. To complete the repair, see the Section on filling and painting.

7

If

them

with locking pliers.

Repair of scratches 1

for

Now

the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws

metal.

5

all.

it

3 After cleaning, regularly treat leather upholstery with a leather wax. Never use car

motor. If these are not available, a few sheets of sandpaper will do the job just as effectively. With the paint removed, you will be able 9 in

a

drill

to determine the severity of the corrosion

and

decide whether to replace the whole panel, if possible, or repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think and it is often quicker to install a new panel than to repair large areas of rust. 10 Remove all trim pieces from the affected area except those which will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged body, such as headlight shells, etc. Using metal snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and any other metal that is badly affected by rust.

Hammer

the edges of the

hole inward to create a slight depression for the

filler

material.

Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the metal. If the back of the rusted area is acces1

Repair of dents See photo sequence 4 pull

When

sible, treat

repairing dents, the

the dent out

until

close as possible to

first

job

original

to

is as shape. There

the affected area

its

is

it

with rust inhibiting paint.

Before filling is done, block the hole in some way. This can be done with sheet metal riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing 12

Once

blocked off, the and painted. See the following subsection on filling and paint13

hole

the

affected area can be

is

filled

ing.

is

5

clean leather upholstery.

the hole with wire mesh.

Filling

and painting

Many types

14

of

body

fillers

are available,

but generally speaking, body repair kits which contain filler paste and a tube of resin

hardener are best

A

for this

type of repair work.

wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator

will

be necessary for imparting a smooth and contoured finish to the surface of the filler material. Mix up a small amount of filler on a clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the hardener sparingly). Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the package, otherwise the filler will set incorrectly. 15 Using the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area. Draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the desired contour and to level the filler surface. As soon as a contour that approximates the original one

is

achieved, stop working the

you continue, the paste will begin to stick to the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of paste at 20-minute intervals until the level of the filler is just above the surrounding paste.

If

metal. 1 Once the filler has hardened, the excess can be removed with a body file. From then on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper should be used, starting with a 180-grit paper and finishing with 600-grit wet-or-dry paper. Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat rub-

wooden

ber or of the

filler will

block, otherwise the surface

not be completely

the sanding of the

filler

flat.

During

surface, the wet-or-

dry paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth fin-

produced

ish is

17

in

the

final

stage.

At this point, the repair area should be

surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in be encircled by the finely feathered edge of good paint. Rinse the repair area with clean water until all of the dust produced by the sanding operation is gone. 18 Spray the entire area with a light coat of primer. This will reveal any imperfections in turn should

the surface of the

filler.

Repair the imperfec-

paste or glaze filler and once more smooth the surface with sandpaper. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedure tions with fresh

filler

you are satisfied that the surface of the and the feathered edge of the paint are perfect. Rinse the area with clean water and until

filler

allow

it

to dry completely.

repair area is now ready for paintSpray painting must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust free atmosphere. These conditions can be created if you have access to a large indoor work area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick the day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the work area with water will help settle the dust which would otherwise be in the air. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels. This will

19

ing.

The

Chapter

11

11-3

Body

nesses which will interfere with removal. Have an assistant support the weight of the hood. Remove the hinge-to-hood nuts or

help minimize the effects of a slight mismatch in

paint color. Trim pieces such as

strips,

chrome

8

Fixed glass

door handles, etc., will also need to be off or removed. Use masking tape

masked

Replacement

-

replacement

of the windshield

4

and

fixed

bolts.

and several thicknesses of newspaper for the masking operations. 20 Before spraying, shake the paint can

glass requires the use of special fast-setting

5

Lift off

adhesive/caulk materials and some specialized tools and techniques. These operations

6

Installation is the reverse of removal.

thoroughly, then spray a test area until the spray painting technique is mastered. Cover

should be or a

shop

left

to a dealer service

specializing

in

department

eral thin layers of

primer rather than one thick

this, the work area should be thoroughly rinsed with water and the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed as well. Allow the primer to dry before spray-

in

Hood

9

Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Begin spraying in the center of the 21

repair area

work out

and then, using a circular motion, the whole repair area and

until

about two inches of the surrounding original paint is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then use a very fine rubbing

the

new

-

removal, installation and

Refer to illustrations

9.2, 9. 10, 9.

1 1

and

9.

12

is heavy and somewhat awkremove and install - at least two peo-

Note: The hood

ward

to

compound

to blend the

edges

of

of the

hood

is

done by moving the hood

relation to the hinge plate after loosening

the bolts or nuts.

Scribe or trace a line around the entire 8 hinge plate so you can judge the amount of

adjustment

ple should perform this procedure.

ing additional coats.

Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjust-

ment

one. Using 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub down the surface of the primer until it is very smooth. While doing

Adjustment 7

glass work.

the repair area with a thick coat of primer. The thickness should be built up using sev-

the hood.

movement. Loosen the bolts or nuts and move the hood into correct alignment. Move it only a

9

Tighten the hinge bolts or nuts

little

at a time.

and

carefully lower the

hood

to

check the

alignment.

Removal and installation Use blankets or pads to cover the cowl area of the body and the fenders. This will protect the body and paint as the hood is

1 Adjust the hood bumpers on the radiator support so the hood is flush with the fenders when closed (see illustration). 1 The safety catch assembly on the hood

lifted off.

itself

1

Scribe alignment marks around the bolt

2

heads

to insure proper alignment during

installation (a

also

permanent-type

felt-tip

marker

work for this) (see illustration). Disconnect any cables or wire har-

will

3

can also be adjusted fore-and-aft

after

loosening the bolts (see illustration).

12 The hood latch assembly on the body can also be adjusted side-to-side after loos-

ening the bolts (see illustration). (fexf

continued on page 11-6)

paint into the existing paint. Finally,

apply a coat of wax.

major damage

6

Body

repair

1

Major

damage must be

-

repaired by an

auto body shop specifically equipped to perform unibody repairs. These shops have the specialized equipment required to

do the job

properly.

2

If

the

damage

must be checked

for

extensive, the body proper alignment or the

is

vehicle's handling characteristics

may be

adversely affected and other components may wear at an accelerated rate. 3 Due to the fact that all of the major body components (hood, fenders, etc.) are separate and replaceable units, any seriously damaged components should be replaced rather than repaired. Sometimes the components can be found in a wrecking yard that specializes

in

9.2

Use a marking pen to outline the hinge plate and bolt heads

9.10 Adjust the hood vertically by screwing the hood bumpers in or out

used vehicle components,

often at considerable savings over the cost of

new

parts.

7

Hinges and locks

-

maintenance

Once every 3000 miles, or every three months, the hinges and latch assemblies on the doors, hood and trunk should be given a few drops of light oil or lock lubricant. The door latch strikers should also be lubricated with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and ensure free movement. Lubricate the door and trunk locks with spray-on graphite lubricant.

11

Loosen the bolts (arrows) to adjust the safety catch assembly, then adjust it fore or aft (arrow)

9.1 1

9.12

Loosen the bolts (arrows) to adjust the hood latch assembly

These photos

damage

a method of repairing simple dents. They are intended to supplement Body repair Chapter and should not be used as the sole instructions for body repair on these vehicles.

illustrate

in this

-

minor

**v

1

If you can't access the backside of the body panel to hammer out the dent, pull it out with a slide-hammer-type dent puller. In the deepest portion of the dent or along the crease line, drill or punch hole(s) at least one inch apart .

.

3 Using coarse-grit sandpaper, remove the paint down to the bare metal. Hand sanding works fine, but the disc sander shown here makes the job faster. Use finer (about 320-grit) sandpaper to feather-edge the paint at least one inch around the dent area

... then screw the slide-hammer into the hole and operate it. Tap with a hammer near the edge of the dent to help 'pop' the metal back to its original shape. When you're finished, the dent area should be close to its original contour and about 1/8-inch below the surface of the surrounding metal

2

4

When

the paint

is

removed, touch

helpful than sight for telling

if

will

the metal

probably be more

is straight.

Hammer

down

the high spots or raise the low spots as necessary. Clean the repair area with wax/silicone remover

I

5 Following label instructions, mix up a batch of plastic filler and hardener. The ratio of filler to hardener is critical, and, if you mix it incorrectly, it will either not cure properly or cure too quickly (you won't have time to file and sand it into shape)

6 Working quickly so the filler doesn't harden, use a plastic applicator to press the body filler firmly into the metal, assuring bonds completely. Work the filler until it matches the original contour and is slightly above the surrounding metal

it

7

Let the

fingernail.

filler

harden

Use a body

until you can just dent it with your or Surf orm tool (shown here) to roughshape the filler

file

9 You shouldn't be able to feel any ridge at the transition from the filler to the bare metal or from the bare metal to the old paint. As soon as the repair is flat and uniform, remove the dust and mask off the adjacent panels or trim pieces

11 The primer will help reveal imperfections or scratches. Fill these with glazing compound. Follow the label instructions and sand it with 360 or 400-grit sandpaper until it's smooth. Repeat the glazing, sanding and respraying until the primer reveals a perfectly smooth surface

Use coarse-grit sandpaper and a sanding board or block to work the filler down until it's smooth and even. Work down to finer grits of sandpaper - always using a board or block - ending up with 360 or 400 grit 8

10 Apply several layers of primer to the area. Don't spray the primer on too heavy, so it sags or runs, and make sure each coat is dry before you spray on the next one. A professional-type spray gun is being used here, but aerosol spray primer is available inexpensively from auto parts stores

sand the primer with very fine sandpaper (400 or 600remove the primer overspray. Clean the area with water and allow it to dry. Use a tack rag to remove any dust, then apply 12

grit)

Finish to

the finish coat. Don't attempt to rub out or wax the repair area until the paint has dried completely (at least two weeks)

11-6

Chapter 11

Body

FRONT BUMPER SUPPORT

10.5a

Remove the front bumper support bolts

FRONT BUMPER END CAP

Front

10.1

13

The hood

latch

bumper components

-

exploded view (rear bumper

similar)

assembly, as well as the

hinges, should be periodically lubricated with

white lithium-base grease to prevent sticking and wear.

10

Bumpers

-

removal and

installation

Refer to

illustrations 10.1, 10.5a

Warning: On

air

and 10.5b

bag-equipped models,

1 1

always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the impact sensors (behind the front bumper) to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury.

Remove

1

Install the rub strip and any other components that were removed.

8

10.5b the end cap-to-bumper bolts

Remove rear

and the two end cap-to-fender bolts (see

the nuts (arrows) from the

bumper mounts

11

Remove the end cap-to-bumper nut and 2 separate the end cap from the bumper. Repeat this procedure for the other side. 3 Disconnect any wiring or other components that would interfere with bumper removal.

Support the bumper with a block

1 1

.2b

Door trim panel

-

removal and

installation

illustration).

4

Remove the mounting screw from the upper section of the armrest

.2a

of

wood and

a jack or jackstand or have an

bumper as the bolts are removed. 5 Remove the mounting bolts and detach assistant support the

the

bumper (see

illustrations).

Installation is the reverse of removal.

7

Tighten the mounting bolts securely.

inside the

1 1

.2c

Refer to 11. 2d

6

The other armrest mounting screw is tucked formed indentation (pocket)

Front door

Use a

1

illustrations 11.2a, 11.2b, 11.2c,

and

11.4

Disconnect the negative cable from the

battery.

flat

bladed screwdriver and pry the cover power window switch

off the

Chapter

1 1

11-7

Body edge

outer

5

Once

the panel

until

is

free.

of the clips are disengaged,

all

detach the trim panel, unplug any wire harness connectors and remove the trim panel from the vehicle. For access to the inner door, carefully 6 peel back the plastic watershield. 7 Prior to installation of the door panel, be sure to reinstall any clips in the panel which may have come out during the removal procedure and remain in the door itself. Plug in the wire harness connectors and 8 place the panel in position in the door. Press the trim panel into place until the clips are seated.

9

Install

the armrest/door pulls and the

window switch

Use a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the inside door handle cover

1 1

.2d

Use a special upholstery tool or a putty knife and carefully pry the panel off 11.4

Sliding door Refer to

the door

UPPER ARM TRIM COVER

or crank.

illustration

11.11

10 Close the door and remove the latch remote control trim panel/bezel. 11 Remove the plugs and the screws on the upper arm trim cover (see illustration)

SLIDING DOOR TRIM PANEL

and remove the cover.

Remove

12 11.11

Sliding

door

the plastic trim panel bolster

fasteners.

trim panel details

Remove the frogleg fasteners from the 13 door trim panel and remove the panel. 14 Installation is the reverse of removal.

12

Door latch, lock cylinder and outside handle - removal and installation

SLIDING

DOOR

INNER PANEL

COVER

Door latch CARPET

Front door Refer to

illustrations 12.2a, 12.2b, 12.2c

and

12.3

Remove all door trim panel retaining screws and door pull/armrest assemblies

remove the screw, pry out the control switch assembly and unplug it.

(see illustrations).

4 Insert a putty knife between the trim panel and the door (see illustration) and dis-

2

On manual window models, remove the window crank. On power window models, 3

engage the

retaining clips.

Work around

1

Close

window completely and

the

remove the door

trim panel

and watershield

(see Section 11).

2

the

Disconnect the

link

rods from the latch

(see illustrations).

LOCK

OUTSIDE

HANDLE LINK

s,,^

^.BUTTON

~^>

14.7a

Sliding

door

hinge bracket adjustment details

13.4

Door hinge

details

link, use a screwpush the key lock cylinder retainer

below). Disconnect the driver to off

and withdraw the lock cylinder (see

illus-

tration) from the door.

23

Installation

the reverse of removal.

door

Sliding 24

is

Refer to Section

1 1

and remove the

trim

panel.

25

Remove

the latch and handle assembly

(see previous procedure).

26 Remove the two handle retaining nuts from inside the door and detach the outside handle assembly (see illustration 12.9). 27 Remove the screws and detach the lock cylinder from the outside handle assembly.

28

Installation is the reverse of removal.

14.7b Be sure to mark the latch bolts with paint before removing them from the

Liftgate 29

Remove

the liftgate latch assembly (see

sliding

Adjust the door stop to increase or decrease the distance to the panel

14.7c

door

previous procedure).

30

Remove

b)

the nut that retains the lock

cylinder to the latch assembly.

31

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

Outside handle Front door 32

Remove

Section

Disconnect any wire harness connectors and push them through the door opening so they won't interfere with door

tion 11).

Remove

11).

Disconnect the outside handle (remote link from the latch, remove the mounting nuts and detach the handle from the door (see illustration 12.22). 34 Place the handle in position, attach the link and install the nuts. Tighten the nuts

jack or jackstand

securely.

it

and tapping

control)

bly.

Sliding

door and

liftgate

It

possible to remove the front door without removing the fender by using a sharp punch is

33

the hinge pins from the

or have an assistant on

hand

to support

and

the hinge bolts are removed. Note: is

If

a

used, place a rag between

the door to protect the door's painted

surfaces.

Remove

4

the hinge-to-door bolts or drive

out the pins and carefully

outside handle from the lock assembly.

5 Installation is the reverse of removal. 6 Following installation of the door, check the alignment and adjust it if necessary as

13

removal and

installation

Refer to 1

illustration 13.4

Remove

the door trim panel (see Sec-

lift

off

the door (see

illustration).

follows: a)

door - removal, and adjustment

Removal and installation 1

when

Sliding

installation

it

35 Follow the previous procedures for latch and cylinder lock removal and detach the

Front door

14

assem-

Place a jack or jackstand under the door

3

can also be

the front fender (see Section

26) to gain access to the hinge bolts. Note:

the front door trim panel (see

striker

with the lock mechanism. This is done by loosening the mounting bolts and moving the striker as necessary.

removal. 2

The door lock

adjusted both up-and-down and sideways to provide positive engagement

Remove

the upper and lower roller cov-

ers (see illustration 12.9).

2

paint and mark the position of the bracket at both the door and the roller

Use

roller

arm assembly. Support the door with a block of wood 3 and a floor jack. 4 Remove the bolt from the upper roller bracket to the upper roller. Do the same for the lower

5 6

roller.

Remove

the

Installation

roller

is

bracket from the door.

the reverse of removal.

Up-and-down and forward-and-backward adjustments are made by carefully bending the hinges slightly, using a spe-

Adjustment

cial tool.

7

Refer

to illustrations 14.7a,

If

the character

14.7b and 14.7c

line location,

gap

sizes

Chapter

15.5

Remove the

not the hinge-to-body bolts

and operation of the hinges and other door systems is not satisfactory, the door can be adjusted by loosening the roller assembly mounting bolts and repositioning the brack-

15

Liftgate

The following sequence is recommended to ensure correct adjustment.

its fully

Adjust the front door-to-pillar and front

9

a)

b)

c)

1

c)

2 connectors that would interfere with removal

6

Installation

7

After installation, close the liftgate

and bottom.

The gap between the right quarter panel and the sliding door must be 1/4-inch at both the top and bottom. The character lines of the right fender, right front door, sliding door and quarter panel must match up.

Liftgate strut

3

Mark

or scribe around the hinge flanges.

While an assistant supports the liftgate, 4 detach the support struts (see Section 16). 5 Remove the hinge bolts (see illustration) and detach the liftgate from the vehicle.

make sure

is

to illustrations 16.2 and 16.3 Have an assistant support the liftgate in its fully open position. 2 Use a Torx drive socket and remove the upper mount where it attaches to the liftgate

it's in

(see illustration). 3 Remove the trim panel mounting screws in the vicinity of the strut (see Section 22) and carefully peal back the panels to gain access to the

body

mount (see illustration). the mounting bolt where the

strut

4

Remove

strut

attaches to the body (see illustration

16.3).

the reverse of removal.

and

proper alignment with the

surrounding body panels. Adjustments are made by changing the position of the hinge bolts in the slots. To adjust it, loosen the hinge bolts and reposition the hinges either side-to-side or fore-and-aft the desired amount and retighten the bolts. 8 The engagement of the liftgate can be adjusted by loosening the lock striker bolts, repositioning the striker and retightening the

Carefully lower the liftgate

5

1

7

Front door window glass removal and installation

Refer to 1

2

the door trim panel and water1 1).

Reinstall the crank

assembly

GASKET

-

illustration 17.3

Remove

the glass partially

AND

back down to

a closed position. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

shield (see Section

bolts.

STUD

replacement

1

Have an assistant support the liftgate in open position. Disconnect all cables and wire harness

Adjust the sliding door-to-front door and

top b)

1

illustration 15.5

of the liftgate.

The gap between the back of a properly adjusted front door and the front edge of the sliding door must be 5/16-inch at the

16

removal, installation

The gap between the right pillar and the right front door must be 1 14-inch. The gap between the right fender and right front door must be 1/4-inch. The fender and door character lines must match up.

quarter panel relationship. a)

-

Refer Refer to

fender relationship.

Carefully fold back the interior trim panel to access the other strut mount

16.3

and adjustment

ets (see illustrations).

8

11-11

Body

Use a Torx socket and remove the upper liftgate mount

16.2

liftgate-to-hinge bolts,

1 1

is

visible

and raise

the

until

window

(or lower)

regulator

through the access hole

(see illustration 12.9). 3 Remove the two nuts that secure the glass to the regulator (see illustration). 4 Pull the door glass up and out of the

WASHER

door.

FRONT WINDOW REGULATOR ASSEMBLY

5

Installation is the reverse of removal.

18

Hinged glass

11 -

removal and

installation

The door glass is attached to the regulator flange with two nuts

17.3

Refer 1

to illustration 18.2

Remove

the interior trim panels that sur-

round the window that Section 22).

is

to

be replaced (see

11-12

Chapter

1 1

Body

REGULATOR LIFT

GLASS

MODULE

19.5a

The inner

door components on 1991 and later models

18.2

2

Remove

screws (see 3

Interior

door glass details

the glass-to-latch mounting

illustration).

Remove

the nuts that hold the hinge to

the door or the aperture panel.

4

Remove

replacing

it

the glass assembly.

with a

latch attaching

components

assembly. Installation 5

19

Window

new window,

If

you are

transfer the

to the

new

glass

-

removal and

Remove

the bolts that hold the regulator

6

Push-in the fasteners that hold the regu-

lator

cables to disengage them from the inner

door panel. 7

Remove

door panel. 8 Installation

the door trim panel and the water shield (see Section 11). the bolts that hold the door

window

lift

plate (see Section

20

3 post on the battery. 4 If the vehicle is equipped with a power regulator, disconnect the power regulator electrical connector from the door trim panel.

Remove

glass to the

sit

to the

Refer to illustrations 19.5a, 19.5b and 19.5c

2

to

door inner panel (see illustrations). Note: Some models use rivets to fasten the regulators to the inner door panel. Use an electric drill and a appropriate size drill bit to drill out the regulator mounting rivet heads.

the reverse of removal.

regulator

it

1

Carefully

remove the regulator from the is

Refer to 1

new

bezel (see Section 23).

Remove the screws that hold the top of the console to the instrument panel (see illustration).

Remove the ashtray and remove the screws that hold the console to the instrument panel. 4 Separate the upper console module 3

bolts

have been drilled out and torque them to 90 in-lbs in the sequence shown after the rivets

earlier

models

20.2

the center instrument cluster

2

RUN

The inner door components on 1990 and

illustrations

Remove

nector.

7)

Install

removal and

from the instrument panel, if equipped. Disconnect the ashtray lamp wire con5

the reverse of removal.

19.5c

-

Center console (1991 and later models only)

GIASS

19.5b

Console

installation

Disconnect the cable from the negative

5 is

installation

1

and slowly lower the glass and allow on the bottom of the door.

Chapter

11

11-13

Body

INSTRUMENT PANEL FULL

FORWARD CONSOLE (IF

EQUIPPED)

TRIM FILLER

MOUNTING OVERHEAD CONSOLE 20.10a

FLOOR PAN

SUN GLASS BIN

20.2

Overhead console

details

BRACKET

on the 1991 and

models

later

5 —

Front center console mounting details on the 1991 and later models

MOUNTING BRACKETS

20.10b Overhead console details on the early

models CONSOLE ASSEMBLY 21.1

Remove

7

the screws holding the bottom console to the floor bracket. Separate the console from the vehicle.

8

Installation is the reverse of removal.

6

of the

Overhead console Refer to illustrations 20. 10a and 20. 10b

Disengage the sunvisor ends from the overhead console. 10 Remove the screws holding the over9

Remove

head console to the roof located

the screws that mount the lower dashboard panel to the upper panel

at the front

console (see illustrations). 11 Slide the overhead console forward to disengage the clips holding the rear of the console to the roof. 12 Disconnect the wire connectors from the back of the console and separate the console from the vehicle. 13 Installation is the reverse of removal. Note: While pressing the console upwards, of the

slide the console forward until the console

snaps onto the mounting bracket.

21

Lower dashboard panels removal and installation

Refer to

illustration

-

21.1

Locate the lower dashboard trim panel below the steering column. Remove the mounting screws (see illustration) from the 1

panel.

2

Lower the panel and remove

it

from the

vehicle.

3

Installation is the reverse of removal.

22

Interior trim

panels

removal and

installation

Refer to 22.4b 1

illustrations 22.

Remove

Carefully pry the plastic plug from

the trim panel with a small, flat bladed screwdriver.

22.3

Remove

the mounting screw with a screwdriver

Phillips

22.3, 22.4a

and

11 the plastic plugs from the trim

is being removed. Use a dull, flat bladed screwdriver (see illustration). 2 Remove any moulding pieces or scuff plates that border the trim panel. Remove the mounting screws with a 3 Phillips head screwdriver (see illustration).

panel that

22.1

1,

11-14

Chapter

1 1

Body

UPPER QUARTER TRIM PANEL

WINDSHIELD

'""""«..,.„„

c 4)

-I

o 2. (A

E

> (A

C o

C

oc n c o

4>

3 U.

12

12-26

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

3 O E o

£

i5

o o 52. "3T

c

"5>

c 4)

-I

O rt (A

E e

I ST

c o

£c O) T3

C

(0

c

o o 4>

e 3

Chapter 12 Chassis

12-27

system

electrical

Hl,.

|

f

*t-=a

- a

3 i

T - a a.

Js

a

i

\>,

iJT

?

•i

iKJ

i

^

•i is _ss«

!•

a

CD

>

S

^R ^

li-llHi* 1

T

E

r

Oo

aiocisiM

>-

£

-

1

e

IBM*

8

tt

» r

I

Hi'-.

O K> ID

"1 to

tn

a

4,

4.

CD

I s (^

m

s

to

3

o fs.

i

4,

T s (D

o>

to

E

>

a

fli

"SlS

|

"l-s!

L

—4

L_ 2 rjr

3

p

M

12

12-28

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

T3

O E

re

O CNJ

o o E c re

•^

w O "S

5 re

DC

(0 4)

C '5>

c 0)

-I CO

oc re

_i

o CO

_r

w

C re

o re

oz I— -CIK

? re

cc

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

12-29

system

re a>

re

o

1

n U

1

»U

1** f>

•

1

CE 1

I

I

CD

*

O

"

•""

W

•*

_ LJ

a CSJ

_

r-

[

(-1

LJ

'

„

u3

UO

_ I

•""*

_l

UD "

oo

~

V

Do E _i (0 CM

oc re

_i CM CM*

Sf

LU Ql t—

5

tea

-« -U^»{ -»

_J

3 Q c 5 k. €oo E e re

k o re

CM •

CSJ

o K

re

/QOl 10

WD

12

12-30

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

o c

O)

c

0)

_l co co

oc to

-1

o CO

¥ re

CO

c "C

S E 0)

V)

>» (A

o>

c c g t5

c o u

Chapter 12 Chassis

12-31

system T0CRB>5Pl!CE

o

"OUNlfQ to fusebloc* bracket

rOth

electrical

fe»iTfRT rti 4 BOOT I-

-

L

7TJ

10 00*E c

L«"3

^•—^

FCEOi

ot

UB -031

IflBH/NT*

OF LAMP SHI 'CM

ft"

•

I

STEERING

COLUrii

^rat

1,

I

IB0R/RO* 1BLG

O

-

^>

-

as 1

TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR lAUP IN CLUSTER!

TO LEFT

TURN SIGNRL SMITCH (OK TOP RIGHT SIDE Of

B

...V

o

'

«^z

TO RIOMT

fU&l

"

>i

I

f

f c5

^*-fe-

1BOB

,

TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR LAMP IN CLUSTER!

{JS}-

ss-

I {boot]-

\S . I

«

i-

-jflOOTJ-

f 10

TO RIGHT REAR

07 188R-

-^

STOP * TURN SIGNAL LANP

|

BEAR stop i turn SIGNAL L»nP

TO LEFT

Typical early model stop, turn and hazard flasher system circuit

•

m

18B»/«0»-

-«

oi iaB«

TO TURN SIGNAL SWITCH SEE PC -381 I

|boot|-;

8CT

I&VT

180G

RIGHT BACKUP LIGHT 32

iavT

s, & „

STOP. TURN ANO SIDE 1ARKER LOUP

16B*« t-ITHQuT ELECTRlCflLLT m£BTEO R£a128«« n:th ELECRICOl.T hEATEC REAR nINOOM EFT BACRJP LAP.P

12

LEFT TAIL. TURN ANO SIDE RMK£R

Typical early model rear lighting circuit

12-32

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

41

C

c « -I

m ci .«

3 U

E

I ST

o>

c

i/io.-

cd

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

12-33

0)

c 'at

c 0)

-J co co

oc re

-i

o CO*

E

&v>

o c O) rg

.c

o

re

u '5.

>.

12

12-34

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

1

SB \§\ 31

]

r

H \

\ 1

ICC

* *

-i

-J

i•

>*

a