Haynes Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mini-Vans Owners Workshop Manual 1984 thru 1986 1850102317, 9781850102311

Citation preview

WM 1984 2.2

thru

liter

1986 2.6

liter

Owners Workshop Manual hi

Digitized by the Internet Archive in

2012

http://archive.org/details/dodgecaravanplymOOchoa

F-

Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager

Mini-Vans

Owners Workshop Manual by Curt Choate and John H Haynes Member

of the Guild of

Motoring Writers

Models covered:

Dodge Caravan/Mini Ram Van and Plymouth Voyager 1984 thru 1986 2.2 liter and 2.6 liter engines with 4-speed, 5-speed and automatic transmission

FGHIJ

KLMMO

IWiTS

St

association

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil

Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes Publications, 861 Lawrence Drive

Inc

Newbury Park 91320 USA

California

^^^ MEMBER

Acknowledgements We are grateful for the help and Company

cooperation of the Ford Motor

for their assistance with technical information, cer-

and vehicle photos, and the Champion Spark Plug Company who supplied the illustrations of various spark plug conditions.

tain illustrations

©

Haynes Publishing Group 1985

A book

the Haynes

in

Owners Workshop Manual

Haynes & Co., Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Printed by J.H.

Ltd.

Series

Sparkford Nr. Yeovil,

No part of this book may be reproduced any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

All rights

reserved.

or transmitted in

ISBN

85010 231 7

1

Library of

Congress Catalog Card Number 85-82430

While every care

manual

is

is

correct,

taken to ensure that the information in this liability can be accepted by the authors

no

or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by in, or omissions from, the information given.

any errors

Contents Introductory pages

About

this

manual

Introduction to the Ford Caravan and Plymouth Voyager Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Booster battery (jump) starting

Jacking and towing Safety first! Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Troubleshooting

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 2 Part 2.6L engine

Part

9 9 16 16 18 19

20 21

27

A 54

Chapter 2 Part B 2.2L engine

Chapter 2

5 5 7

68

C

General engine overhaul procedures

84

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

air

conditioning systems

106

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

114

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

134

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

145

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission

156

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission

160

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

167

Chapter 9 Brakes

180

Chapter 10 Steering and suspension systems

191

Chapter 11

Body

208

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

220

Wiring diagrams

229

index

256

c

> E (0

ec

00

J

About Its

this

manual

purpose of this

manual

is

to help

simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved For

Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within lines.

you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. It is hoped that you will use the manual to tackle the work yourself.

The purpose

many

by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after having done the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal

that Section.

Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. it is necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number i.e. Chapter 1/16). Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter" apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8" means in the same Chapter. Reference to the left or right side of the vehicle is based on the assumption that one is sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward. Even though extreme care has been taken during the preparation of this manual, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

When

NOTE A Note

provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which the steps to be followed easier to understand.

will

make

CAUTION

A

Caution indicates a special procedure or special steps which must be taken in the course of completing the procedure in which the Caution is found which are necessary to avoid damage to the assembly being

worked

on.

WARNING A Warning

which must be taken in the course of completing found which are necessary to avoid injury to the person performing

indicates a special procedure or special steps

the procedure in which the Warning the procedure.

is

Introduction to the

Dodge Caravan

and Plymouth Voyager The Chrysler mini-vans, as these vehicles are commonly known, are based on the K-car chassis and drivetrain and share many components with Chrysler Corporation's popular front wheel drive cars. The transverse mounted, four-cylinder overhead cam engine is available in two displacements — the 2.2L Chrysler-made engine and the 2.6L Mitsubishi engine. The engine drives the front wheels through

a

choice of either a manual or automatic transaxle via unequal length The rack and pinion steering gear is mounted behind the

driveaxles.

engine.

The brakes

vacuum

are disc at the front

and drum-type

assist as standard equipment.

at the rear, with

Vehicle identification

numbers

Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the

component

Vehicle identification

required.

Body

identification plate

This metal plate is located on the top side of the radiator support. Like the VIN, it contains valuable information concerning the production of the vehicle as well as information about the way in which the vehicle is equipped. This plate is especially useful for matching the color and type of paint during repair work.

number

(VIN) number

is located on a plate attached to the top left corner of the dashboard of the vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains valuable information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style.

This very important identification

Engine identification numbers The engine identification number (EIN) on the 2.2 liter engine is stamped into the rear of the block, just above the bellhousing. On the 2.6 liter engine it is on the radiator side of the block, between the core plug and the rear of the block.

LINE

NO, 6

12345 67 8 910111213

14 15 16 17

5

O

14 15

4

12345678910111213

3

123

2

123

1

1234

3456 7 8910111213

1819202122

16171819 2021

identification

number

is

visible

1819202122 23

567 91011

14

1819 20 2122 23

5678

14 15 16

101112

678910111213 1415

117

16

181920212223 181920212223

through the

driver's side of the windshield

2.2L engine identification number location

O

14 15 16 17

Typical body code plate

The vehicle

23

2.6L engine identification number location

i

FOR FACTORY USE

ONLY

_J

Vehicle identification numbers

T.I.N.

LOCATION

2.6L engine

serial

number

ASSEMBLY PART NUMBER LOCATION

location

Transaxle number locations

Engine serial numbers addition to the EIN, a serial number, which is required when buying replacement parts, is also used. On the 2.2 liter engine it is located just below the EIN on the block. On the 2.6 liter engine it is located In

on the right-front side of the engine block, adjacent to the exhaust manifold stud (dashboard side in vehicle).

Transaxle identification number The transaxle identification number is stamped upper surface of the housing.

into the

boss on the

Transaxle serial numbers The transaxle serial number, also called the assembly part number, is required when buying parts. On manual transaxles it is located on a metal tag attached to the front side of the transaxle. On automatics it

is

located on a pad just above the

oil

pan

at the rear of the transaxle.

Vehicle Emissions Control Information label The Emissions Control Information label is attached to the front edge of the hood, on the underside (see Chapter 6 for an illustration of the label and its location).

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally into one of two categories — authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these fall

parts

is

as follows:

Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to your vehicle and not generally available elsewhere such as major engine parts, transaxle parts, trim pieces, etc. It is also the only place you should buy parts if your vehicle is still under warranty, as non-factory parts may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have your engine and chassis numbers available and,

if

Retail auto parts stores:

Good auto

needed components which wear out

parts stores will stock frequently

such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch relatively fast

up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices, and can often be found not far from your home.

possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used parts together. There are a

once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

10

Fastener sizes

standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts),

making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2—13x1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M1 2 — 1 .75 x 25 metric bolt is 1 2 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1 .75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are For a

number

of reasons, automobile manufacturers are

not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a

Grade

1

Grade 5

or 2

Bolt strength

Grade

Identification

markings (top

Class

—

facilities

Grade 8

standard'SAE/U S

;

bottom

—

metric)

Identification

Hex Nut Hex Nut Grade 5

Property Class 9

3 Dots

J Arabic 9

Hex Nut

Hex Nut

Property Class 10

Grade 8

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

CLASS ArabicIO

Metric hex nut strength

markings

10.9

e © CLASS

CLASS

9.8

8.8

Metric stud strength markings

8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. through It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as U.S.S. sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

11

facilities

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened

to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come

screws and studs, depending on the material they are made and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners loose. Bolts, of

not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values.

Metric thread sizes M-6 M-8 M-10 M-12 M-14

Ft-lb

Nm/m

6 to 9

9 to 12 19 to 28

14 to 21

28 50 80

to

40 140

38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

1

7 to 10 17 to 24

33 35

30 34

to 71 to

Pipe thread sizes 1/8 1/4

5 to 8

3/8

22 25

1

1/2

2 to to to

to to

44 47

U. S. thread sizes

1/4-20 5/16-18 5/16-24 3/8-16 3/8-24 7/16-14 7/16-20 1/2-13

G Grade marks T

D

(bolt strength)

Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)

9 to 12

12 14 22 27

17 to 24 19 to 27

to 18 to 20 to to

40 40

to

55

to

to

32 38 55 60 80

30 37 55 55 75

to

43

to 51 to

74

to 81 to

108

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

Standard (SAE and U.S.) bolt dimensions/grade marks

L

6 to 9

P

Property class (bolt strength)

L

Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads Diameter

T

D

in millimeters)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

12

out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping.

Fasteners

laid

bolts, differential

Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly care and purpose to go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can

Component disassembly should be done with

handle, but keep

wood

in

facilities

mind that extra clean up

will

be necessary

if

the

splinters.

After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

help ensure that the parts

be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Hose removal

tips Warning: If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized

by a dealer service department or an air conditioning specialist. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation.

As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is

not damaged.

a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed. If

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom

Micrometer set

Tools A

selection of

to maintain

few

and

good

tools

is

a basic requirement for

repair his or her

tools, the initial

own

investment might seem high, but

to the spiraling costs of professional auto is

a

anyone who plans owner who has

vehicle. For the

wise one.

Dial indicator set

when compared

maintenance and

repair,

it

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

vi

Dial caliper

13

facilities

.

Hand-operated vacuum

pump

Timing

light

S/

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Hydraulic

lifter

removal tool

Ridge reamer

Damper/steering wheel puller

Valve spring compressor

General purpose puller

Valve spring compressor

^^h Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

14

Cylinder hone

Ring compressor

Brake cylinder hone

To

Battery post Oil filter

kit should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and open-end combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. tools

and cable cleaning wrench Funnel (medium size)

owner decide which

Maintenance and minor repair tool The

in

this

list

1

inch or 6

gauge set

2x6

emery

Wire brush

cloth

to

19

mm)

tool

Drain

pan

If basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Note:

it

will

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the repairs

/2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive

and more expensive,

is

bulky

has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set

and

it

a 1/2-inch drive set.

Socket setfs)

Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. inch) Combination pliers — 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine

mm

die set

Safety goggles Jackstands (2)

1

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler

Tap and

Clutch plate alignment tool

tools are needed to perform the tasks manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair. Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-ityourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use. in

Brake hold-down spring tool

this

help the

detailed

facilities

Reversible ratchet Extension — 10 inch Universal joint

Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball

peen hammer — 8 ounce

Soft-face

hammer

(plastic/rubber)

Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby — 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby — No. 2)

3x8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working Pliers Pliers Pliers

Pliers

— — — —

on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that

vise grip

lineman's needle nose snap-ring (internal and external)

Cold chisel

-

1/2-inch

Scribe

Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch

punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Steel rule/straightedge — 12 inch Ailen wrench set (1/8 to 5/8-inch or A selection of files Wire brush (large)

15

facilities

actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Pin

will

4

mm

to

10

mm)

Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

Care and maintenance of tools Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill motor with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are inluded in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor

it makes sense to treat them with Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during

a test drive.

Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working

facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort

Cylinder bore gauge

separator Universal-type puller

Balljoint

Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set

Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up)

Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools

or

who

is

just starting to get involved in vehicle

repair, there are a

number

of options available

work area

is

essential.

understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which will soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage It

Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool

For the do-it-yourselfer

tools are expensive, so

of suitable

Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone

maintenance and

Good

respect.

when

purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If,

is

shop floor. Whenever working over

a painted surface, such as

when

leaning over

a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads,

made

especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Booster battery (jump) starting Certain precautions to

jump a)

must be observed when using

a booster battery

start a vehicle.

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is in the Off position. Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. The eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea.

switch b) c)

d)

Make

e)

one in the vehicle. The two vehicles must not touch each other. Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual transaxle)

f

>

g)

sure the booster battery

is

the

same voltage as the dead

or Park

(automatic transaxle). If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes.

Connect the red jumper cable

to the positive

(

+ terminals of each )

battery.

Connect one end

jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the engine block. Use caution to insure that the cable will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of the black

of the booster battery.

The other end

Booster cable connections (note that the negative cable is not attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

of connection.

Jacking and towing Jacking

JACK LOCATOR

The

PIN

jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Warning: Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground with the wheels blocked and

jack

the transaxle in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). If the tire is to be changed, pry off the hub cap (if equipped) using the tapered end of the lug wrench. If the wheel is being replaced, loosen the wheel nuts one-half turn and leave them in place until the wheel is raised off the ground. Refer to Chapter 10 for information related to removing and installing the tire. Place the jack under the side of the vehicle in the indicated position and raise it until the jack head hole fits over the rocker flange jack locator pin. Operate the jack with a slow, smooth motion until the wheel is raised off the ground. Lower the vehicle, remove the jack and tighten the nuts (if loosened

removed) in a criss-cross sequence by turning the wrench clockwise. Replace the hub cap (if equipped) by placing it in position and using the heel of your hand or a rubber mallet to seat it. or

The jack supplied with the vehicle fits over a underside of the vehicle, which secures it

on the place

pin in

Jacking and towing

Towing Vehicles with an automatic transaxle can be towed with all four wheels on the ground, provided that speeds do not exceed 25 mph and the distance is not over 15 miles, otherwise transmission damage can result. Vehicles with a manual transaxle can be towed at legal highway speeds for any distance. If the vehicle has a damaged transaxle, tow it only with the front wheels off the ground. Towing equipment specifically designed for this purpose should be

17

used and should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle and not the bumper or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used all towing. While towing, the parking brake should be released and the transmission must be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Off position). Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

for

3 d

c3

JB:i

DRIVE

ON

HOIST

FRAME CONTACT HOIST TWIN POST HOIST FLOOR JACK

Hoist and jacking points

I

Safety

first!

Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are in-

tended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential

DOs and DON'Ts

on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack — it may fall. DON'T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON'T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system — let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled

DON'T

rely

to the point that

will

it

DON'T touch any

not burn you.

system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale brake lining dust — it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below) DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause

part of the engine or exhaust

Remember

are working on

it.

DO wear

eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts.

DO make adequate

sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating for the job.

DO get someone to

check on you periodically when working alone on

a vehicle.

DO carry

out work

in

a logical

sequence and make sure that everything

correctly assembled and tightened.

DO

keep chemicals and children and pets.

DO remember others.

If

in

fluids tightly

capped and out of the reach of

that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and

doubt on any point, get professional advice.

all

times that gasoline

is

highly flammable. Never

smoke

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area.

When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit

loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component alone — get someone to help you. DON'T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON'T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you

at

have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

or

injury.

DON'T push on wrenches when

is

Fire

with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near the battery. The battery normally gives off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery

may

burst.

Take care when adding water and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin.

Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power

tool, inspection light, etc.,

operates on household current, always

which

make

sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel

vapor.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Secondary ignition system voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching ignition

ning or

certain parts of the

system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the

is

run-

insula-

is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

tion

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

is

used

for

mounting HEI

heat be transferred

from

Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. It is non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on, and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

modules where

it

is

essential that

the module.

Sealants

RTV sealant is

Cleaners

ignition

away from

one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made

RTV

is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant \s used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

silicone,

irregularities,

Chemicals Anti-seize

corrosion

in

compound prevents

seizing, galling, cold welding, rust

fasteners. High temperature anti-seize, usually

copper and graphite lubricants,

is

and

made

with used for exhaust system and manifold

bolts.

Lubricants Motor

the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multiviscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and

heavy

oil is

oils

and are available

in

a

number

of weights

from 5W-20 to

20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transaxles and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie rod ends and universal joints. High temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenun disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal to metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from - 1 00 °F to + 1 90 °F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts.

Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that

Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose, and cure only after installation, in the

Medium

strength locking compound is used for small screws that you expect to be removing later. High strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which you don't intend to be removing on a regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical

absence of

air.

nuts, bolts and

treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils.

Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts. They also serve

down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank. to break

Other Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces.

Undercoating

is

a

petroleum-based

tar-like

substance that

is

designed

to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion.

also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier tc apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes. It

Conversion factors Length (distance) X X

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Volume

X

25.4 0.305 1.609

= = =

Millimetres

(mm)

Metres (m) Kilometres (km)

3

X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres X 0.568 = Litres (I) X 1.137 = Litres (I)

US

X 0.946 = Litres (I) X 4.546 = Litres (I) X 1.201 = US gallons (US X 3.785 = Litres (I)

)

X

quarts (US qt)

Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

gallons (US gal)

Mass Ounces Pounds

0.0394

X X X X X X X X

0.061

0.833 0.264

= Cubic inches (cu in; in 3 = Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = US gallons (US gal)

X X

0.035 2.205

= Ounces = Pounds

X X X

0.225

X

14.223

3.281 0.621

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

(capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

US

= = =

X X X

1.201

=US

cm 3

(cc;

)

quarts (US qt)

gal)

1.76

0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22

)

(weight) X X

(oz) (lb)

28.35 0.454

= Grams (g) = Kilograms

(kg)

(oz) (lb)

Force Ounces-force Pounds-force

Newtons

X 0.278 = Newtons (N) X 4.448 = Newtons (N) X 0.1 = Kilograms-force

(ozf; oz) (Ibf;

lb)

(N)

(kgf; kg)

3.6 9.81

= Ounces-force = Pounds-force = Newtons (N)

(ozf; oz) (Ibf;

lb)

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

2 ;

lb/in

(psi; lbf/in

;

lb/in

2 ;

lb/in

2 ;

lb/in

X 0.068

=

Kilograms-force per square 2 centimetre (kgf/cm kg/cm 2 Atmospheres (atm)

X

0.069

=

X

6.895

X

0.01

=

Pounds-force per square inch 2

(psi;

)

X

14.696

=

Bars

X

14.5

=

=

Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.145

=

=

Kilograms-force per square 2 2 centimetre (kgf/cm kg/cm

X

98.1

=

X

0.868

=

lbf/in

(psi; lbf/in

)

(psi; lbf/in

(psi;

)

;

2 )

2 ;

lb/in

2 )

2

2 ;

lb/in

)

Pounds-force per square inch

2

Kilopascals (kPa)

lb/in

Pounds-force per square inch

2 )

;

Pounds-force per square inch

2

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

=

;

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

0.070

)

Pounds-force per square inch 2

X

2

lbf/in

2 ;

lb/in

2 )

Kilopascals (kPa)

)

Torque (moment of force) X

Pounds-force inches

1.152

=

(Ibf in; lb in)

Kilograms-force centimetre cm; kg cm)

(kgf

X

Pounds-force inches

0.113

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

= Newton metres (Nm)

X

8.85

=

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

X

Pounds-force inches

0.083

=

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf

ft;

lb ft)

X

12

=

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

X

0.138

Kilograms-force metres m; kg m)

X

7.233

=

= Newton metres (Nm) = Kilograms-force metres

X X

0.738

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf = Newton metres (Nm)

X

0.0013

=

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

(kgf

Pounds-force feet (Ibf Newton metres (Nm)

ft;

lb ft)

X X

1.356 0.102

(kgf

9804

ft;

lb ft)

m; kg m)

Power Horsepower

(hp)

= Watts

X

745.7

X

1.609

Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X

0.621

=

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

X X

0.354 0.425

Kilometres per Kilometres per

X X

2.825 2.352

= =

Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

(W)

= Horsepower

(hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

litre

(km/I)

litre

(km/I)

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit 'It is

=

(°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/ 100 mpg (imperial) x III 00 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 100 km = 235

where

I1

kilometres

(II

100km),

=

(°F

-

32)

x

0.56

Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom

Section

Engine

Symptom

Section

slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive forward or reverse gears Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to

Transaxle 13 15

Engine backfires Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching off Engine hard to start when cold Engine hard to start when hot Engine lacks power Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically Engine misses at idle speed Engine misses throughout driving speed range Engine rotates but will not start Engine stalls Engine starts but stops immediately Engine will not rotate when attempting to start Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or

4 12

8 9 10

7 1

motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement .... Starter motor operates without rotating engine

14 6 3

Engine electrical system Battery will not hold a charge Ignition light fails to

go out

is

the floor

40

Driveaxles Clicking noise

in

turns

Knock or clunk when accelerating from a coast Shudder or vibration during acceleration

43 44 45

2 11

uphill

come on when key

41

5

Starter

Ignition light fails to

in

16 18 17

turned on

Brakes Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed Brake pedal pulsates during brake application Excessive brake pedal travel Excessive effort required to stop vehicle Noise (high-pitched squeal without the brakes applied) Pedal travels to the floor with little resistance Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

50 53 49 51

48 52 47

Rear axle 46

Noise

Suspension and steering systems

Fuel system Excessive fuel consumption Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

19

20

Cooling system 25 23 24 22

Coolant loss External coolant leakage Internal coolant leakage Overcooling Overheating Poor coolant circulation

21

26

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or during braking Excessive play in steering Excessive tire wear (not specific to one area) Excessive tire wear on inside edge Excessive tire wear on outside edge Excessively stiff steering Lack of power assistance

Shimmy, shake worn

Tire tread

or vibration in

one place

Vehicle pulls to one side

56 58 60 62 61

57 59 55

63 54

Clutch Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed) Clutch pedal stays on floor when disengaged Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor — shift lever does not move freely in and out of reverse) Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged Squeal or rumble with clutch fully disengaged (pedal depressed) Squeal or rumble with clutch fully engaged (pedal released) .

28 32 27 29 31 .

30

Manual transaxle engaging gears Noisy in all gears Noisy in Neutral with engine running Noisy in one particular gear Oil leakage Slips out of high gear Difficulty in

37 34 33 38 38

36

Automatic transaxle Fluid leakage

General shift

mechanism problems

42 39

This section provides an easy reference guide to the more common problems which may occur during the operation of your vehicle. These problems and possible causes are grouped under various components or systems; i.e. Engine, Cooling system, etc., and also refer to the Chapter and/or Section which deals with the problem. Remember that successful troubleshooting is not a mysterious black art practiced only by professional mechanics. It's simply the result of a bit of knowledge combined with an intelligent, systematic approach to the problem. Always work by a process of elimination, starting with the simplest solution and working through to the most complex — and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can forget to fill the gas tank or leave the lights on overnight, so don't assume that you are above such oversights. Finally, always get clear in your mind why a problem has occurred and take steps to ensure that it doesn't happen again. If the electrical system fails because of a poor connection, check all other connections in the system to make sure that they don't fail as well. If a particular fuse continues to blow, find out why — don't just go on replacing fuses. Remember, failure of a small component can often be indicative of potential failure or incorrect functioning of a more important component or system.

1

.

22

Troubleshooting

Engine

Engine hard to start

5 1

Engine

will

not rotate

when attempting

to start

is discharged. 3 Automatic transmission not completely engaged in Park or clutch not completely depressed. 4 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit. Inspect all wiring and connectors at the battery, starter solenoid and ignition switch. Starter motor pinion jammed in flywheel ring gear. If manual 5 transmission, place transmission in gear and rock the vehicle to manually turn the engine. Remove starter and inspect pinion and flywheel

4

sticking in the closed position (Chapter 1). Carburetor flooded (see Section 2). Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). Fuel not reaching the carburetor (see Section 2).

6

Starter

2 3

the battery

at earliest

Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5).

7

Starter

8

Ignition

motor

engagement

Loose or faulty

1

connections at distributor,

electrical

coil

or

alternator.

1

Insufficient fuel reaching the carburetor/fuel injector. Disconnect

).

line at

the carburetor/fuel injector and remove the If

little

or

none

at

all,

filter

(Chapter

Observe the flow check for blockage in the

Place a container under the disconnected fuel

of fuel from the line.

switch faulty (Chapter 12).

in

Engine starts but stops immediately

7

the fuel

faulty (Chapter 5).

motor noisy or excessively rough

Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken. Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing.

1

2

2

convenience.

6

hot

Choke

1

1 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. Check the cable terminals at the battery. Tighten the cable or remove corrosion as necessary. Battery discharged or faulty. If the cable connections are clean and 2 tight on the battery posts, turn the key to the On position and switch on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If they fail to function,

when

line.

and/or replace the fuel pump (Chapter 4). Vacuum leak at the gasket surfaces of the intake manifold and/or 3 carburetor/fuel injection unit. Make sure that all mounting bolts/nuts are tightened securely and that all vacuum hoses connected to the carburetor/fuel injection unit and manifold are positioned properly and in lines

2

1

Engine rotates but

will

not start

good condition.

Fuel tank empty.

Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly). Check the operation of electrical components as described in previous Section. Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. See previous 3 Section. Carburetor flooded and/or fuel level in carburetor incorrect. This 4 will usually be accompanied by a strong fuel odor from under the hood. Wait a few minutes, depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and attempt to start the engine. 5 Choke control inoperative (Chapter 1). Fuel not reaching carburetor. With ignition switch in Off position, 6 open hood, remove the top plate of air cleaner assembly and observe

2

the top of the carburetor (manually move the choke plate back if necessary). Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal and check that fuel spurts into the carburetor. If not, check the fuel filter (Chapter 1), fuel lines and fuel pump (Chapter 4). 7 Fuel injector or fuel pump faulty (fuel injected vehicles) (Chapter 4). Excessive moisture on, or damage to, ignition components (Chap8 ter 5).

Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 10 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (see

9

8

Engine lopes while

Vacuum

idling or idles erratically

Check mounting bolts/nuts at the carburetor/fuel and intake manifold for tightness. Make sure that all vacuum hoses are connected and in good condition. Use a stethoscope or a length of fuel hose held against your ear to listen for vacuum leaks while the engine is running. A hissing sound will be heard. A soapy water solution will also detect leaks. Check the carburetor/fuel injector and intake manifold gasket surfaces. Leaking EGR valve or plugged PCV valve (see Chapters 1 and 6). 2 Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). 3 4 Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the carburetor/fuel in1

leakage.

injection unit

jector (see Section 7).

Carburetor out of adjustment (Chapter 4). Leaking head gasket. If this is suspected, take the vehicle to a repair shop or dealer where the engine can be pressure checked. 7 Timing chain and/or gears worn (Chapter 2). 8 Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2). 5

6

previous Section). 1

Distributor loose, causing ignition timing to change. Turn the

distributor as necessary to start engine, then set ignition timing as

soon

as possible (Chapter 1). Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty 1 2 coil (Chapter 5).

9

1

2 3

3

Starter

10

Spark plugs worn or not gapped properly (Chapter Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1). Choke not operating properly (Chapter 1).

1).

Engine hard to start

Engine misses throughout driving speed range

Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter Also check fuel output at the carburetor/fuel injector (see Section 7). 2 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1). 3 4 Check for cracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor wires and damaged distributor components (Chapter 1). Leaking spark plug wires (Chapter 1). 5 6 Faulty emissions system components (Chapter 6). Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Remove spark 7 plugs and test compression with gauge (Chapter 1). 8 Weak or faulty ignition system (Chapter 5). 9 Vacuum leaks at carburetor/fuel injection unit, intake manifold or vacuum hoses (see Section 8). 1

1 ).

when

cold

Battery discharged or low. Check as described in Section 1 Choke control inoperative or out of adjustment (Chapter 4). Carburetor flooded (see Section 2). 3 Fuel supply not reaching the carburetor (see Section 2). 4 Carburetor/fuel injection system in need of overhaul (Chapter 4). 5 Distributor rotor carbon tracked and/or mechanical advance 6 mechanism rusted (Chapter 5). 1

speed

Remove

the starter (Chapter 5) and inspect. Starter pinion or flywheel teeth worn or broken.

2

idle

motor operates without rotating engine

Starter pinion sticking.

4

Engine misses at

23

Troubleshooting 5

Engine

1 1

Excessive engine operating temperature. Probable causes of this

are malfunctioning thermostat, clogged radiator, faulty water

stalls

(Chapter 1

Idle

speed incorrect (Chapter 1). filter clogged and/or water and impurities

in the fuel system (Chapter 1). Choke improperly adjusted or sticking (Chapter 1). 3 4 Distributor components damp or damaged (Chapter 5). 5 Faulty emissions system components (Chapter 6). 6 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1 ). Also check spark plug wires (Chapter 1). 7 Vacuum leak at the carburetor/fuel injection unit, intake manifold or vacuum hoses. Check as described in Section 8. Valve clearances incorrectly set (Chapter 2). 8

2

Fuel

Engine electrical system 16 1

2

3

4 5

6 7

Battery

will

not hold a charge

Alternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter

low or battery discharged (Chapter Battery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1). Electrolyte level

1 ).

1).

Alternator not charging properly (Chapter 5). Loose, broken or faulty wiring in the charging circuit (Chapter Short in vehicle wiring causing a continual drain on battery. Battery defective internally.

5).

Engine lacks power

12 1

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter

2

Excessive play

worn

in

17

1).

distributor shaft. At the

rotor, faulty distributor cap, wires, etc.

same

(Chapters

gapped spark plugs (Chapter

1

and

5).

Faulty or incorrectly

4

Carburetor/fuel injection unit not adjusted properly or excessively

worn (Chapter

1).

go out

alternator or charging circuit (Chapter 5).

1

Fault

2

Alternator drivebelt defective or not properly adjusted (Chapter

in

1

4).

Faulty coil (Chapter

5).

Brakes binding (Chapter 1). 7 Automatic transmission fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1). Clutch slipping (Chapter 8). 8 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1 ). 9 10 Emissions control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 1 Use of substandard fuel. Fill tank with proper octane fuel. 12 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Test with compression tester, which will detect leaking valves and/or blown head gasket (Chapter 1 ). 6

18 1

2 3

Ignition light fails to

come on when key

is

turned on

Warning

light bulb defective (Chapter 12). Alternator faulty (Chapter 5). Fault in the printed circuit, dash wiring or bulb holder (Chapter

1

2).

Fuel system 19

13

Ignition light fails to

time, check for

3

5

pump

3).

Engine backfires

Excessive fuel consumption

element (Chapter

1

Dirty or clogged air filter

2

Incorrectly set ignition timing (Chapter

1

3

Choke

2

4 Emissions system not functioning properly (not all vehicles, see Chapter 6). 5 Carburetor idle speed and/or mixture not adjusted properly (Chap-

Emissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1). Faulty secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator, 3 faulty plug wires, distributor cap and/or rotor) (Chapters 1 and 5). 4 Carburetor/fuel injection unit in need of adjustment or worn excessively (Chapter 4). Vacuum leak at carburetor/fuel injection unit(s), intake manifold 5 or vacuum hoses. Check as described in Section 8. 6 Valve clearances incorrectly set, and/or valves sticking (Chapter 2).

6 7

Low

tire

worn

or

dam-

4).

pressure or incorrect

tire size

(Chapter

1).

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration 1

Incorrect grade of fuel.

Fill

tank with fuel of the proper octane

rating.

Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).

Carburetor/fuel injection unit in need of adjustment (Chapter 4). Improper spark plugs. Check plug type against Emissions Control Information label located in engine compartment. Also check plugs and wires for damage (Chapter 1).

Leak

in

Tank

overfilled.

a fuel feed or vent line (Chapter 4).

Fill only to automatic shut-off. Emissions system filter clogged (Chapter 1). 4 Vapor leaks from system lines (Chapter 4). Carburetor/fuel injection internal parts excessively worn or out of 5 adjustment (Chapter 4).

2

2 3

1).

Carburetor/fuel injection internal parts excessively

aged (Chapter

or uphill

1

sticking or improperly adjusted (Chapter

ter 1).

20 14

1).

1).

3

4

5

Worn

or

damaged

distributor

components (Chapter

6

Faulty emissions system (Chapter 6).

7

Vacuum

leak.

Check as described

in

Section

Cooling system

5).

21

1

2

15

Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching off

1

Idle

2

Electrical solenoid at side of carburetor not functioning properly

(not

3

4

all

models, see Chapter

1).

4).

Ignition timing incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).

Thermo-controlled (Chapter 6).

air

cleaner heat valve not operating properly

Insufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1). Water pump drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chap-

ter 1).

3

speed too high (Chapter

Overheating

8.

Radiator core blocked or radiator

grille dirty

and restricted (Chap-

ter 3).

Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Fan blades broken or cracked (Chapter 3). 6 Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure. Have cap pressure tested by a gas station or repair shop. 4 5

7

Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).

24

22

Troubleshooting

29

Overcooling

Oil on clutch plate 1 any leakage source.

Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Inaccurate temperature gauge (Chapter 12)

1

2

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch

2

lining.

is

engaged

Remove (Chapter

8)

and inspect. Correct

Worn or loose engine or transmission mounts. These units move when clutch is released. Inspect mounts and bolts. Worn splines on clutch plate hub. Remove clutch components

slightly

23

3

External coolant leakage

1 Deteriorated or damaged hoses or loose clamps. Replace hoses and/or tighten clamps at hose connections (Chapter 1). 2 Water pump seals defective. If this is the case, water will drip from the weep hole in the water pump body (Chapter 1). 3 Leakage from radiator core or header tank. This will require the radiator to be professionally repaired (see Chapter 3 for removal procedures). 4 Engine drain plugs or water jacket core plugs leaking (see Chap-

ter 2).

24

(Chapter 8) and inspect. 4 Warped pressure plate or flywheel. Remove clutch components and inspect.

30

Squeal or rumble with clutch

fully

engaged (pedal released)

Improper adjustment; no free play (Chapter 1). Release bearing binding on transmission bearing retainer. Remove clutch components (Chapter 8) and check bearing. Remove any burrs or nicks, clean and relubricate before reinstallation. Weak linkage return spring. Replace the spring. 3 1

2

Internal coolant leakage

Note: Internal coolant leaks can usually be detected by examining the Check the dipstick and inside of the rocker arm cover for water deposits and an oil consistency like that of a milkshake.

Squeal or rumble with clutch (pedal depressed)

31

fully

disengaged

oil.

Leaking cylinder head gasket. Have the cooling system pressure

1

tested.

Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head. Dismantle engine and

2

spect (Chapter

in-

1

Worn, defective

2

Worn

(Chapter

3

4

Clutch pedal stays on floor

when disengaged

Bind

in

linkage or release bearing. Inspect linkage or

remove clutch

components as necessary.

Too much coolant in system (Chapter 1). Coolant boiling away due to overheating (see Section Internal or external leakage (see Sections 25 and 26). Faulty radiator cap. Have the cap pressure tested.

1

8).

Coolant loss 1

2

broken release bearing (Chapter 8). diaphragm fingers)

2).

32 25

or

or broken pressure plate springs (or

16)

2

Linkage springs being over-extended. Adjust linkage for proper free Make sure proper pedal stop (bumper) is installed.

play.

Manual transaxle 26

Poor coolant circulation

33 Inoperative water pump. A quick test is to pinch the top radiator hose closed with your hand while the engine is idling, then let it loose. You should feel the surge of coolant if the pump is working properly (Chapter 1 ). Restriction in cooling system. Drain, flush and refill the system 2 (Chapter 1). If necessary, remove the radiator (Chapter 3) and have it reverse flushed.

Noisy

in

Neutral with engine running

1

1

2

3

4

Input shaft bearing worn.

Damaged main drive gear bearing. Worn countershaft bearings. Worn or damaged countershaft end

play shims.

Water pump drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chap-

3

34

ter 1).

Thermostat sticking (Chapter

4

Noisy

in all

gears

3). 1

Any

2

Insufficient lubricant (see checking procedures

of the

above causes, and/or: in

Chapter

1)

Clutch 27

Fails to release (pedal

does not move

pressed to the floor — and out of Reverse)

Improper linkage free play adjustment (Chapter Clutch fork off ball stud. Clutch plate warped or damaged (Chapter 8).

1

2

3

shift lever

35

8).

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase vehicle speed)

in

1

2

Linkage out of adjustment (Chapter 8). Clutch plate oil soaked or lining worn. Remove clutch (Chapter 8)

and inspect. 3 a

Clutch plate not seated.

new one

to seat.

in

one

particular gear

1

Worn, damaged

2

Worn

36 28

Noisy

freely in

It

may

take

30

or

40 normal

starts for

1

2

or

or chipped gear teeth for that particular gear.

damaged synchronizer

for that particular gear.

Slips out of high gear

Transaxle loose on clutch housing (Chapter 7). Shift rods interfering with engine mounts or clutch lever (Chapter Shift rods not

working freely (Chapter

Damaged mainshaft

7).

pilot bearing.

Dirt between transaxle case and engine or misalignment of transaxle (Chapter 7). 6 Worn or improperly adjusted linkage (Chapter 7).

25

Troubleshooting Vent

37 1

Difficulty in

pipe: Transaxle overfilled and/or water in fluid (see checking procedures, Chapter 1). Speedometer connector: Replace the O-ring where speedometer cable enters transaxle case (Chapter 7).

engaging gears

Clutch not releasing completely (see clutch adjustment

in

Chap-

ter 8).

2 Loose, damaged or out-of-adjustment shift linkage. Make thorough inspection, replacing parts as necessary (Chapter 7).

a

Driveaxles

43 38

Oil

Clicking noise

in

turns

leakage 1

Excessive amount of lubricant in transaxle (see Chapter 1 for correct checking procedures). Drain lubricant as required. Side cover loose or gasket damaged. 2 Rear oil seal or speedometer oil seal in need of replacement (Chap3 1

Worn

or

damaged outboard

joint.

Check

for cut or

damaged

seals.

Repair as necessary (Chapter 8).

44

Knock

or clunk

when

accelerating from a coast

ter 7).

Worn or damaged inboard joint. Check for cut or 1 Repair as necessary (Chapter 8)

Automatic transaxle Due

for the

39

home mechanic

General

shift

to properly

mechanism problems

1 Chapter 7 deals with checking and adjusting the shift linkage on automatic transaxles. Common problems which may be attributed to

poorly adjusted linkage are: Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral. Indicator on shifter pointing to a gear other than the one actually being used. Vehicle moves when in Park. 2 Refer to Chapter 7 to adjust the linkage.

45

Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor

Chapter 7 deals with adjusting the throttle valve (TV) cable to enable the transaxle to downshift properly.

41

Transaxle slips, shifts rough, in forward or reverse gears

is

noisy or has no drive

There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility — fluid 1

level.

.

or vibration during acceleration

Rear axle 46

2 3

Noise

Road

noise.

No

corrective procedures available.

and check tire pressures (Chapter 1). Rear wheel bearings loose, worn or damaged (Chapter 10).

Tire noise. Inspect tires

Brakes Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the tires are in good condition and inflated properly (see Chapter 1), that the front end alignment is correct and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner.

47 1

Before taking the vehicle to a repair shop, check the level and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter 1 Correct fluid level as necessary or change the fluid and filter if needed. If the problem persists, have a professional diagnose the probable cause. 2

Shudder

Excessive joint angle. Have checked and correct as necessary 1 (Chapter 8). Worn or damaged inboard or outboard joints. Repair or replace as 2 necessary (Chapter 8). Sticking inboard joint assembly. Correct or replace as necessary 3 (Chapter 8).

1

40

seals.

to the complexity of the

automatic transaxle, it is difficult diagnose and service this component. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer or reputable mechanic. Note:

damaged

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

damaged

contaminated disc brake pads on one Chapter 9. Excessive wear of brake pad material or disc on one side. Inspect Defective,

or

oil

side. Inspect as described in

2

and correct as necessary. 3 Loose or disconnected front suspension components. Inspect and all bolts to the specified torque (Chapter 10). Defective caliper assembly. Remove caliper and inspect for stuck piston or other damage (Chapter 9).

tighten

4

42

Fluid leakage

1 Automatic transaxle fluid is a deep red color. Fluid leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown by air flow to the transaxle.

To pinpoint a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from 2 around the transaxle. Degreasing agents and/or steam cleaning will achieve this. With the underside clean, drive the vehicle at low speeds so air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak is coming from. Common areas of leakage are: a)

Pan: Tighten mounting bolts and/or replace pan gasket as

b)

necessary (see Chapters 1 and 7). Filler pipe: Replace the rubber seal where pipe enters transaxle case.

Transaxle oil lines: Tighten connectors where lines enter transaxle case and/or replace lines.

48

Noise (high-pitched squeal without the brakes applied)

Disc brake pads worn out. The noise comes from the wear sensor rubbing against the disc (does not apply to all vehicles). Replace pads with new ones immediately (Chapter 9).

49

Excessive brake pedal travel

Partial brake system failure. Inspect entire system (Chapter 9) and 1 correct as required. Insufficient fluid in master cylinder. Check (Chapter 1 ), add fluid 2 and bleed system if necessary (Chapter 9).

Troubleshooting

26

3 Rear brakes not adjusting properly. Make a series of starts and stops while the vehicle is in reverse. If this does not correct the situation, remove drums and inspect self-adjusters (Chapter 9).

56

Excessive pitching and/or

rolling

around corners

or during braking

Defective shock absorbers. Replace as a set (Chapter 10). Broken or weak springs and/or suspension components. Inspect as described in Chapter 10. 1

50

Brake pedal feels spongy

2

when depressed

1 Air in hydraulic lines. Bleed the brake system (Chapter 9). 2 Faulty flexible hoses. Inspect all system hoses and lines. Replace parts as necessary. Master cylinder mounting bolts/nuts loose. 3 4 Master cylinder defective (Chapter 9).

51

57

Excessively

power steering

1

Lack of

2

Incorrect

3

Lack of lubrication at steering joints (Chapter 1). Front end out of alignment. See also section titled Lack of power assistance.

4

Excessive effort required to stop vehicle

steering

stiff

5

fluid in tire

fluid reservoir

pressures (Chapter

(Chapter

11

1).

Power brake booster not operating properly (Chapter 9). Excessively worn linings or pads. Inspect and replace if necessary

1

2

(Chapter 9). 3 One or more caliper pistons or wheel cylinders seized or sticking. Inspect and rebuild as required (Chapter 9). 4 Brake linings or pads contaminated with oil or grease. Inspect and replace as required (Chapter 9). 5 New pads or shoes installed and not yet seated. It will take a while for the new material to seat against the drum (or rotor).

58

Excessive play

Pedal travels to the floor with

little

3

53

no

fluid in

cylinder(s), leaking caliper piston(s), loose,

2

Steering

Suspension and steering systems

drivebelt faulty or not adjusted properly (Chapter

low (Chapter

Hoses

or lines restricted. Inspect

power steering system. Bleed system (Chapter

1

2 3

4

61

1

Excessive Incorrect

tire

tire

wear

and replace parts as necessary. 10).

one area)

(not specific to

pressures (Chapter

Tires out of balance.

1).

Have professionally balanced.

Wheels damaged. Inspect and replace as necessary. Suspension or steering components excessively worn (Chapter

Excessive

tire

1 ).

1).

Air in

3

10).

wear on outside edge

(Chapter 1). Excessive speed in turns. Front end alignment incorrect (excessive toe-in). Have professionInflation pressures incorrect

ally aligned.

4

uneven (Chapter

pump

Fluid level

3

2

Vehicle pulls to one side

'

4

60

Brake pedal pulsates during brake application

1 Wheel bearings not adjusted properly or in need of replacement (Chapter 1 ). 2 Caliper not sliding properly due to improper installation or obstructions. Remove and inspect (Chapter 9). 3 Rotor defective. Remove the rotor (Chapter 9) and check for excessive lateral runout and parallelism. Have the rotor resurfaced or replace it with a new one.

54

0).

resistance

the master cylinder reservoir caused by leaking damaged or disconnected brake lines. Inspect entire system and correct as necessary. Little or

1

Lack of power assistance

1

wheel

steering

Loose front wheel bearings (Chapter 1). Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter Steering gearbox out of adjustment (Chapter 10).

1

2

59 52

in

1

Tire pressures

2 3

Defective tire (Chapter 1). Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter

Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chapter

10).

1).

62

Excessive

tire

wear on

inside

edge

10).

4 5

Front end in need of alignment. Front brakes dragging. Inspect brakes as described

in

Chapter

9.

1

Inflation pressures incorrect (Chapter 1).

2

Front end

alignment incorrect (toe-out).

Have professionally

aligned.

55

Shimmy, shake

3

Tire or wheel out-of-balance or out-of-round. Have professionally 1 balanced. Loose, worn or out-of-adjustment wheel bearings (Chapters 1 2

and

Loose or damaged steering components (Chapter

10).

or vibration

8).

Shock absorbers and/or suspension components worn or 3 (Chapter 10).

damaged

63

Tire tread

worn

in

one place

1

Tires out of balance.

2

Damaged

or buckled wheel. Inspect

3

Defective

tire

(Chapter

1).

and replace

if

necessary.

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

Contents element, PCV valve and crankcase vent module maintenance Battery check and maintenance Brake check Carburetor choke check Carburetor mounting nut torque check

Fuel

Air filter

15

27 18 17

Fuel Fluid

replacement level checks

filter

23 32 21 refilling)

....

1

inlet air

Spark plug replacement Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement

11

Compression check Cooling system check Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and Engine drivebelt check and adjustment Engine idle speed check and adjustment Engine oil and filter change Exhaust system check

20

system general check Ignition timing check and adjustment Introduction to routine maintenance Routine maintenance schedule Heated

8

Chassis lubrication Clutch pedal free play check

system check

General information

Steering shaft seal lubrication Suspension and steering check Tire and tire pressure checks

28 14 29

Underhood hose check and replacement Valve adjustment (2.6L engine only) Wheel bearing check and repack Windshield wiper blade element removal and installation ....

9

4

Specifications

Note: Additional Specifications

and torque requirements can be found

in

each individual Chapter.

Quick reference capacities Engine oil (including 2.2L engine 2.6L engine Fuel tank

US

filter)

Metric 3.8 liters 4.8 liters

4.0 qts 5.0 qts 1

56.8

5 gal

liters

Automatic transaxle (1983)

From

dry, including torque converter

Transaxle drain and

refill

(all)

Manual transaxle 4-speed 5-speed

Power steering system Cooling system 2.2L engine 2.6L engine

8.9 qts* 3.8 qts

8.4 liters** 4.0 liters

2.0 qts 2.3 qts 2.5 pts

2.1 liters

1

1

8.5 qts 9.5 qts

.8 liters

.2 liters

8.1 liters

9.0

liters

*9.2 qts fleet

**8.7

liters fleet

Recommended Engine

lubricants

and

Manual and automatic transaxle Transaxle shift linkage Cluch linkage

fluid

Power steering reservoir Brake system and master cylinder Carburetor choke shaft Engine coolant Parking brake mechanism Chassis lubrication Steering shaft seal Rear wheel bearing

fluids Consult your owner's manual or local dealer for recommendations on the particular service grade and viscosity oil for your area

oil

DEXRON

II

ATF

NLGI No. 2 chassis grease NLGI No. 2 chassis grease Mopar 4-253 power steering

DOT

3 brake

fluid or

30 2 3 12 13 25 24 5

Tire rotation

22 10

19

equivalent

fluid

Mopar combustion chamber conditioner No. 2933500 or equivalent 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and water White lithium-based grease NLGI No. 2 NLGI No. 2 EP chassis grease NLGI No. 2 EP grease NLGI No. 2 EP grease

6 16 31

26 7

28

Chapter

Recommended

lubricants

and

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

fluids (continued) API GL-4 SAE 90 oil Engine oil NLGI No. 2 multi-purpose grease

Steering gear

Hood and door Door hinge

half

hinges/liftgate hinges

and check spring

Sliding door tracks, center hinge pivot

and open position

striker spring

Sliding door rear latch striker shaft

and wedge

Key lock cylinders Hood latch assembly Door latch striker

NLGI no. 2 EP grease Water resistant multi-purpose lubricant Graphite spray

Mopar Lubriplate or equivalent Mopar Door Ease No. 3744859

or equivalent

Ignition system Spark plug type Spark plug gap 2.2L engine 2.6L engine Spark plug wire resistance 2.2L engine 2.6L engine

0.035 0.040

Ignition timing

See Emission Control Information label

Firing order

1-3-4-2

Champion RN12Y in

(0.9

in

(1.0

mm) mm)

3000 ohms per foot minimum/7200 ohms Less than 22K ohms in

per foot

maximum

engine compartment

Drivebelt deflection Alternator

2.2L engine

New

1/8 1/4

Used

mm) mm)

in (3 in (6

2.6L engine

New

1/4

in (6'

mm) mm)

New

1/4

in (6

mm)

Used

7/16

3/16

Used Power steering pump

(4

in

2.2L engine in

(1

1

mm

2.6L engine

New Used Water Pump

1/4 3/8

in

(6

in

(9

1/8 1/4

in (3

mm) mm)

2.2L engine

New Used

in (6

mm) mm)

2.6L engine

Air

New

5/16

Used

3/8

Pump

in

in

mm) mm)

(8

(9

(2.2L engine)

New

3/16

Used

1/4

Air conditioning

in

mm) mm)

(5

in (6

compressor

2.2L engine

New

5/16

Used

3/8

in

New

1/4

in (6

Used

5/16

in

mm) mm)

(8

(9

2.6L engine

2.

in

mm) mm)

(8

6L engine valve clearance (hot engine)

Intake and jet valves

Exaust valves Idle speed

0.006 0.010

in

(0.1 5

mm)

(0.25 mm) See Emission Control Information label in

Compression pressure 2.2L engine 2.6L engine

Torque specifications Manual transaxle fill plug Oil pan drain plug 2.2L engine 2.6L engine Spark plugs

Wheel

lug nuts

Carburetor mounting nuts 2.2L engine 2.6L engine

130 to 150 149 psi

psi

(100

Ft-lbs

Nm

24

33

20

27 25 28 129

19

20 95 17 12.5

23 17

in

engine compartment

29

* o 2

1

jo

CO f^ oo 05

4)

O

c §

o

3

.c

9) Q."-Q

»)

c

03 tt

'5>

c

*- *.

10

E

.0 •6

o o

*

0.0)0

c

10 fQ

E

S J O

a

C

to

o

c

c .o i Tap the new camshaft seal broad end of a punch and

14.15

15.2

1

5

in

14.18

into place with the

a

Measuring camshaft end play with a

dial indicator

hammer

air pump pulley bolt while holding the pulley with a breaker bar

Tighten the

Press the camshaft seals into the end bearing caps and seat them place with a hammer and the large end of a drift punch (see

15.5

15

Seat the new end seals in the valve cover by pulling the tabs through the holes with pliers

External engine

components

—

installation

illustration).

16 The camshaft end play can be checked with

a dial indicator set

or a feeler gauge.

used, gently pry the camshaft all the way toward the front of the engine. Slip a feeler gauge between the flange at the front of tne camshaft and the front bearing cap. Compare the measured end play to the Specifications. 18 If a dial indicator is used, mount it at the front of the engine with the indicator stem touching the end of the camshaft. Carefully pry the camshaft all the way toward the front of the engine, then zero the indicator. Gently pry the camshaft as far as possible in the opposite direction and observe the needle movement on the dial indicator, which will indicate the amount of end play. Compare the reading to the Specifications (see illustration).

17

If

a feeler

gauge

is

Refer to illustrations 15.2 and 15.5 1 Install the camshaft drivebelt sprocket, making sure it is properly aligned (Section 6). Install the retaining bolt finger-tight. 2 Install the air injection pump pulley and bolt. Lock the pulley to keep it from turning and tighten the bolt to the specified torque (see

illustration).

3 Lock the air pump pulley to keep it from turning and tighten the camshaft timing belt sprocket bolt to the specified torque. 4 Install and adjust the timing belt (Section 6).

Attach new seals to the valve cover (see illustration). Apply a 1 /8-inch bead of RTV sealant around the sealing surface of the valve cover, place the cover in place and press down to seat it. Install the retaining bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. 5

6

1

1

Chapter 2 Part B Install the air pump mount. 7 Place the PCV valve vent mount in place, work it into the valve 8 cover and retain it with the clip. Place the exhaust manifold and gasket in position, lubricate the 9 mounting stud threads with white lithium-based grease and install the nuts. Tighten them to the specified torque in a criss-cross pattern. 10 Install the intake manifold and bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque in increments, working from the center to the ends. 1 Apply anti-seize compound to the EGR valve flare nut and mounting studs. Place the valve and gasket assembly in position and install the nuts finger-tight. Thread the tube into the manifold, place the flange in position on the valve and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts and flare nut evenly and securely. 12 Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the oxygen sensor and install it in the exhaust manifold. 13 Apply RTV sealant to the contact surfaces on both sides of the carburetor spacer. Place the spacer in position, install the nuts and

them

securely. the carburetor (Chapter 4). Connect the PCV valve and hose assembly between the carburetor 1 5 and the vent module. 16 Attach the engine mount to the front of the engine. 17 Install the lower timing belt cover, followed by the upper cover. 18 Install the water pump. 19 Install the fuel pump. 20 Lubricate the O-ring on the shaft with white lithium-based grease and install the distributor (Chapter 5). 21 Install the water outlet and the thermostat. 22 Install the heater water outlet. 23 Install the coolant temperature switch and the temperature vacuum switch (TVS) in the water outlet housing. 24 Install the oil pressure switch. 25 Install the water temperature sensor in the cylinder head. tighten

14

Install

2.2L engine

16

Engine

—

83

installation

1 Attach the hoist to the engine, carefully lower the engine into the engine compartment and rejoin it with the transaxle. 2 Align the engine mounts and install all bolts/nuts finger tight. Do not tighten any of the bolts/nuts until all of them have been installed. Install the transaxle-to-engine bolts and tighten them securely. 3 Remove the hoist and the transaxle supports. 4 Attach the engine ground strap and install the right engine splash

shield. Install the starter and connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. 5 6 On vehicles with a manual transaxle, install the lower transmission case cover and hook up the clutch cable. On vehicles with an automatic transaxle, remove the C-clamp from 7 the housing and align the driveplate and torque converter. Install the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque, then install the lower transmission case cover. Install the power steering pump and drivebelt. 8 9 Install the alternator and drivebelt. 1 Hook up the fuel and vapor lines, the throttle cable and the heater hoses. 1 Reattach the wires to the engine, carburetor and alternator. 1 2 Install a new oil filter and fill the crankcase with the specified oil (Chapter 1). 13 Install the air conditioning compressor and drivebelt. 1 4 Install the radiator and fan assembly and hook up the radiator hoses, then refill the cooling system (Chapter 1). 15 Install the air cleaner assembly and the hoses. 16 Install the battery and connect the cables (positive first, then

negative).

17

Install

the hood (Chapter 12).

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures Contents Crankshaft — inspection Crankshaft — installation and main bearing oil clearance check Crankshaft — removal Cylinder head — cleaning and inspection Cylinder head — disassembly Cylinder head — reassembly Engine block — cleaning Engine block — inspection Engine overhaul — disassembly sequence Engine overhaul — general information Engine overhaul — reassembly sequence

16

Engine rebuilding alternatives Engine removal — methods and precautions General information Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul Main and connecting rod bearings — inspection Piston/connecting rod assembly — inspection Piston/connecting rod assembly — installation and bearing oil clearance check Piston/connecting rod assembly — removal

19 12 8 7 10 13 14 6 3

Piston rings — installation Repair operations possible with the engine Valves — servicing

21

Specifications

2.6L engine General Displacement Bore and stroke

2.6

Firing order

1-3-4-2

Compression ratio Compression pressure

8.7:1

liters (1 56 cu in) 3.59 x 3.86 in (91.19 x 98.04

149

psi at

mm)

250 rpm

Valve timing Intake valve

25° 59°

Opens (BTDC) Closes (ABDC) Exhaust valve

64° 20°

Opens (BBDC) Closes (ATDC) Jet valve

Opens (BTDC) Closes (ABDC) Oil

pressure (engine warm)

.

.

.

25° 59° 45 to 90

psi at

3000 rpm

(6 psi at idle)

Engine block Cylinder bore diameter Taper and out-of-round

3.59 limit

.

.

in

0.0008

(91.2 in

mm)

(0.020

mm)

Silent Shaft Front bearing journal diameter Front bearing oil clearance Rear bearing journal diameter Rear bearing oil clearance .

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

0.906 in (23.01 mm) 0.0008 to 0.0024 in (0.020 1.693 in (43.00 mm) 0.0020 to 0.0035 in (0.051

to 0.061 to

mm)

0.089 mm)

in

the vehicle ....

4 5 1

22 17 15

20 11

18 2 9

1

Chapter 2 Part C Pistons

and

General engine overhaul procedures

rings

3.5866

Piston diameter Piston ring-to-groove clearance

mm)

(91.100

in

Standard

0.0024 to 0.0039 in (0.061 to 0.099 mm) 0.008 to 0.0024 in (0.02 to 0.061 mm) Side rails must rotate freely after assembly

Top ring Second ring Oil ring

Service

limit

0.006 in (0.I5 mm) 0.0039 in (0.099 mm)

Top ring Second ring Piston ring end gap

Standard

Top ring Second ring Oil ring

Service

0.010 0.010 0.008

to

0.039 0.039 0.059

in

0.018 0.018 0.035

to

to

(0.25 to 0.46 (0.25 to 0.46 (0.20 to 0.89

in in in

mm) mm) mm)

limit

Top ring Second ring Oil ring

mm) mm) mm)

(0.99 (0.99 (1.50

in in

Crankshaft and flywheel Main journal diameter Taper and out-of-round limit Main bearing oil clearance Connecting rod journal diameter Connecting rod bearing oil clearance Connecting rod side clearance .... Crankshaft end play Flywheel clutch face runout limit .

.

.

.

.

2.3622 in (60.000 mm) 0.0004 in (0.010 mm) 0.0008 to 0.003 in (0.020 to 0.071 2.0866 in (53.000 mm) 0.0008 to 0.0028 in (0.020 to 0.071 0.004 to 0.010 in (0.10 to 0.25 mm) 0.002 to 0.007 in (0.05 to 0.18 mm) 0.020 in (0.51 mm)

Camshaft Bearing oil clearance Lobe height (intake and exhaust)

Standard Service End play

limit

Cylinder head and valve train Head warpage limit Valve seat angle Valve seat margin width Intake

Exhaust Valve stem-to-guide clearance

0.002

0.004

to

(0.05 to 0.10

in

1.6614 in (42.200 mm) 1.6414 in (41.692 mm) 0.004 to 0.008 in (0.10

0.004

to

mm)

0.20 mm)

mm)

in

(0.10

to

0.047 0.079

45° 0.028 0.039

to

in

(0.71 to

19 mm)

in

(0.99 to

01

mm)

Intake

Standard Service

limit

Exhaust Standard Service limit Valve spring free length

Standard Service limit Valve spring pressure (lbs at specified length) Out-of-square service limit Valve spring installed height

Standard Service limit Jet Valve

Stem diameter Seat angle Spring free length Spring pressure Valve clearance (HOT engine) Intake

Exhaust Jet valve

0.0012 to 0.0024 in (0.031 0.004 in (0.10 mm)

to 0.061

0.0020 to 0.0035 in (0.051 0.006 in (0.15 mm)

to

1.869 1.479

in

in

(47.47 (46.57

61 lbs at

1

.59

mm)

0.089 mm)

mm) mm) (273 N

in

at

40.4 mm)

3° max 1.590 1.629

in in

0.1693

(40.39 (41.38

in

mm) mm)

(4.300

mm)

45° 1.165

in

(29.59

5.5 lbs at 0.846

mm) in

(24 5

Nm

at

21.49 mm)

0.006 in (0.15 mm) 0.010 in (0.25 mm) 0.006 on (0.15 mm)

Timing belt tensioner Spring free length Spring load

2.587 4.4 lbs

in

(65.71

at

1.453

mm) in

(19 6 N at 36.91

mm)

85

Chapter 2 Part C

86

Oil

General engine overhaul procedures

Pump

opening pressure Gear-to-housing clearance Gear-to-pump body bearing clearance Gear-to-pump cover bearing clearance Gear end play Relief valve

Drive

Driven Relief spring free length Relief spring load Oil pressure switch minimum actuating pressure

Torque specifications Main bearing cap bolts Connecting rod bearing cap nuts

49.8

64.0

to

0.0043 0.0008 0.0016

to

0.0020 0.0016

to

to to

to

psi

(343.4 to 441.3 kPa) in (0.109 to 0.1 50 mm) in (0.020 to 0.051 mm) in (0.041 to 0.071 mm)

0.0059 0.0020 0.0028 0.0043 0.0039

in in

(0.051 to 0.109 (0.041 to 0.099

1.850 in (46.99 mm) 9.5 lbs at 1.575 in (42.3 N at 40.01 4 psi (28 kPa) or less Ft-lbs

Nrr

58

79 46

34

mm) mm) mm)

2.2L engine General Displacement Bore and stroke Compression pressure

Maximum

variation

1

35 cu

between cylinders

(2.2

in

liters)

3.62 in (87.4 x 92.0 mm) 1 30 to 1 50 psi (896 to 1 034 kPa) 20 psi (138 kpa)

3.44

x

Valve timing Intake valve

16° BTDC

Opens

48° ABDC

Closes Exhaust valve

52° BBDC 12° ATDC

Opens Oil

Closes pressure

1984 1985 1986

(at (at (at

2000 rpm) 3000 rpm) 3000 rpm)

40 25 25

psi

to to

(276 kPa) psi (172 to 620 kPa) psi (172 to 552 kPa)

90 80

Engine block 3.44 in (87.4 mm) 0.005 in (0.127 mm) 0.002 in (0.05 mm)

Cylinder bore diameter

Taper limit Out-of-round

limit

and

Pistons

rings

Piston diameter

3.443

to

3.445

in

(87.45 to 87.50

mm)

Piston ring-to-groove clearance

Standard

Top 2nd

0.0015 to 0.0031 in (0.038 0.0015 to 0.0037 in (0.038 0.008 in (0.20 mm)

ring ring

Oil ring

Service

Top 2nd

to to

0.079 mm) 0.094 mm)

limit

0.004 0.004

ring ring

in

in

(0.10 (0.10

mm) mm)

Piston ring end gap

Standard

Top 2nd

ring

0.01 1 to 0.021 0.011 to 0.021 0.01 5 to 0.055

ring

Oil ring

Service

Top 2nd

in in in

(0.28 to 0.53 (0.28 to 0.53 (0.38 to 1 .40

mm) mm) mm)

limit

ring

0.039 0.039 0.074

ring

Oil ring

mm) mm) (1.88 mm)

in

(1.0

in

(1.0

in

Crankshaft and flywheel Main journal Diameter Taper limit Out-of-round

Main bearing

oil

2.362 to 2.363 in (60.00 in (0.010 mm) in (0.013 mm)

limit

0.0003 to 0.0031 in (0.008 0.004 in (0.10 mm)

limit

Connecting rod journal diameter Connecting rod bearing oil clearance Standard .

Service limit

60.02 mm)

clearance

Standard Service

to

0.0004 0.0005

.

.

1.968

to

1.969

in

to

0.079 mm)

(49.99 to 50.01

0.0008 to 0.0034 in (0.020 0.004 in (0.10 mm)

to

mm)

0.086 mm)

Chapter 2 Part C Connecting rod side clearance Crankshaft end play Standard Service

limit

General engine overhaul procedures 0.013

in

(0.13 to 0.33

mm)

in

(0.05 to 0.18

mm)

0.005

to

0.002 0.014

to

0.007

in

(0.36

0.005 0.020 1.375

to

0.013

in

(0.51

0.005 0.010

in in

(0.13 (0.25

mm) mm)

0.004

in

(0.10

mm)

to

0.088 0.078

mm)

Camshaft End play Standard Service limit Bearing journal diameter Camshaft lobe wear limit

1984 1985 and 1986

Cylinder

head and valve

Head warpage

in

1.376

to

(0.13 to 0.33

mm)

mm) in

(34.93 to 34.95

mm)

train

limit

45°

Valve seat angle Valve seat width

0.069 0.059

Intake

Exhaust Valve face angle Valve margin width

to

1.75 to 2.24 1.50 to 1 .98

in in

mm) mm)

45°

Intake

1/32 3/64

Exhaust Valve stem diameter Intake

Exhaust Valve head diameter Intake

Exhaust Valve stem-to-guide clearance Intake

Exhaust Valve spring free length

1984 1985 and 1986

mm) mm)

in

(.79

in

(1.19

7.935 mm) 7.882 mm)

0.3124 0.3103

in

1.60 1.39

(40.6 (35.3

in in

in

0.0026 0.0047

0.0009 0.0030

to

2.28 2.39

(57.9 (60.7

in in

to

mm) mm) in in

(0.023 to 0.066 (0.076 to 0.1 19

mm) mm)

mm) mm)

Valve spring installed height Intake

.62 to 1 .68 .62 to 1 .68 Hydraulic

Exhaust Valve lash adjustment Collapsed tappet gap Spring seat-to-valve *

Must be checked

tip if

dimension*

1

in

(41 .2 to

1

in

(41 .2 to

0.024 1.960

to

42.67 19.67

to

42.73

42.7 mm) 42.7 mm)

mm) mm)

0.060 2.009

in

(0.61 to

in

(49.76 to 51.04

to

42.70 19.70

mm mm

to

42.75

mm

to

1

.52

valve faces or seats are reground

Intermediate shaft Journal diameter Large Small Bearing inside diameter Large Small Oil clearance

19.72 to 19.75 mm 0.08 mm maximum

pump

Oil Outer rotor-to-housing bore clearance Outer rotor thickness limit

limit

1984 and 1985 1986

mm)

0.014

in

(0.36

0.825 0.943

in

(20.96 (23.95

in

mm) mm)

Inner rotor-to-outer rotor tip clearance limit

1984 and 1985 1986 Rotor-to-housing clearance limit Pump cover warpage limit Relief spring free length limit Relief spring pressure limit (minimum) ....

Torque specifications Main bearing cap bolt Connecting rod bearing cap nut *

Plus 1/4-turn

(0.25 mm) (0.20 mm) in (0.10 mm) in (0.38 mm) 1.95 in (49.5 mm) 20 lbs at 1.34 in (89 N at

0.010 0.008 0.004 0.015

in in

Ft-lbs

Nm

30* 40*

41* 54*

34

mm

87

Chapter 2 Part C

88

1

General engine overhaul procedures

General information

part of Chapter 2 are the general overhaul procedures head and internal engine components. This information ranges from advice about preparing for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts to detailed, step-by-step procedures covering removal and installation of internal engine components and the inspec-

Included

in this

for the cylinder

the following Sections, it is assumed that the engine has been vehicle. For information concerning removal and installation of the engine and its external components, see Part A or B of this Chapter and Section 2 of this Part. The specifications included here in Part B are only those necessary for the inspection and overhaul procedures which follow. Refer to Part In

removed from the

or

solution.

An engine

overhaul involves restoring the internal parts to the new engine. During an overhaul, the piston rings are replaced and the cylinder walls are reconditioned (rebored and/or honed). If a rebore is done, new pistons are required. The main and connecting rod bearings are replaced with new ones and, if necessary, the crankshaft may be reground to restore the journals. Generally, the valves are serviced as well, since they are usually in less-than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as the carburetor, distributor, starter and alternator, can be rebuilt as well. The end result should be a like new engine that will specifications of a

tion of parts.

A

and compare it to the Specifications. If it is extremely low, the bearings and/or oil pump are probably worn out. Loss of power, rough running, excessive valve train noise and high fuel consumption rates may also point to the need for an overhaul, especially if they are all present at the same time. If a complete tuneup does not remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only

B for additional specifications.

give

2

Repair operations possible with the engine

in

the vehicle

Many major repair operations can be accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle. It is a very good idea to clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with some type of pressure washer before any work is begun. A clean engine will make the job easier and will prevent the possibility of getting dirt into internal areas of the engine. Remove the hood (Chapter 1 1 and cover the fenders to provide as much working room as possible and to prevent damage to the painted )

surfaces. If oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be made with the engine in the vehicle. The oil pan gasket, the cylinder head gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, timing cover gaskets and the front crankshaft oil seal are accessible with the engine in place. Exterior engine components, such as the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator, the distributor, the fuel pump and the carburetor, as well as the intake and exhaust manifolds, are quite easily removed for repair with the engine in place. Since the cylinder head can be removed without pulling the engine, valve component servicing can also be accomplished with the engine in the vehicle. Replacement of, repairs to or inspection of the timing sprockets and chain, the Silent Shaft and chain assembly, the oil pump and front cover seals are all possible with the engine in place. In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment, repair or replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and rod bearings and reconditioning of the cylinder bores is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recommended because of the cleaning and preparation work that must be done to the com-

ponents involved. Detailed removal, inspection, repair and installation procedures for the above mentioned components can be found in the appropriate Part of Chapter 2 or the other Chapters in this manual.

3

Engine overhaul

—

general information

It is not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, as a number of factors must be considered. High mileage is not necessarily an indication that an overhaul is needed, while low mileage does not preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably the most important consideration. An engine which has had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, will most likely give many thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require an overhaul very early in its life. Excessive oil consumption is an indication that piston rings and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil leaks are not responsible before deciding that the rings and guides are bad. Have a cylinder compression or leakdown test performed by an experienced tune-up mechanic to determine the extent of the work required. If the engine is making obvious knocking or rumbling noises, the connecting rod and/or main bearings are probably at fault. Check the oil pressure with a gauge installed in place of the oil pressure sending unit

many

trouble free miles.

Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through the entire procedure to familiarize yourself with the scope and requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult, but it is time consuming. Plan on the vehicle being tied up for a minimum of two weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an automotive machine shop for repair or reconditioning. Check on availability of parts and make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand tools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required for inspecting parts to determine if they must be replaced. Often an automotive machine shop will handle the inspection of parts and offer advice concerning reconditioning and replacement. Note: Always wait until the engine has been completely disassembled and all components, especially the engine block, have been inspected before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an automotive machine shop. Since the condition of the block will be the major factor to consider when determining whether to overhaul the original engine or buy a rebuilt one, never purchase parts or have machine work done on other components until the block has been thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay to install worn or substandard parts.

As

a final note, to

maximum life and minimum trouble from must be assembled with care in a spotlessly

ensure

a rebuilt engine, everything

clean environment.

4

Engine rebuilding alternatives

faced with a number of options when performThe decision to replace the engine block, piston/connecting rod assemblies and crankshaft depends on a number of factors, especially the condition of the block. Other considerations are cost, access to machine shop facilities, parts availability, time required to complete the project and experience. Some of the rebuilding alternatives include: Individual parts — If the inspection procedures reveal that the engine block and most engine components are in reusable condition, purchasing individual parts may be the most economical alternative. The block, crankshaft and piston/connecting rod assemblies should all be inspected carefully. Even if the block shows little wear, the cylinder bores should receive a finish hone. Crankshaft kit — This rebuild package consists of a reground crankshaft and a matched set of pistons and connecting rods. The pistons will already be installed on the connecting rods. Piston rings and the necessary bearings will be included in the kit. These kits are commonly available for standard cylinder bores, as well as for engine

The

do-it-yourselfer

is

ing an engine overhaul.

blocks which have been bored to a regular oversize. Short block — A short block consists of an engine block with a crankshaft and piston/connecting rod assemblies already installed. All new bearings are incorporated and all clearances will be correct. The existing camshaft, valve train components, cylinder head and external parts can be bolted to the short block with little or no machine shop

work necessary. Long block — A long block consists

of a short block plus an oil pump, pan, cylinder head, cylinder head cover, camshaft and valve train components, timing sprockets and belt/chain and timing cover. All comoil

Chapter 2 Part C

General engine overhaul procedures

ponents are installed with new bearings, seals and gaskets incorporated throughout. The installation of manifolds and external parts is all that is necessary. Give careful thought to which alternative is best for you and discuss the situation with local automotive machine shops, auto parts dealers or parts store countermen before ordering or purchasing replacement parts.

5

Engine removal

— methods

and precautions

Fuel

89

pump

Engine mounts Flywheel/driveplate Note: When removing the external components from the engine, pay close attention to details that may be helpful or important during installation. Note the installed position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins, washers, bolts and other small items. If you are obtaining a short block, which consists of the engine 4 block, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods all assembled, then the cylinder head, oil pan and oil pump will also have to be removed from the old engine. See Section 4 for additional information regarding the alternatives.

has been decided that an engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, certain preliminary steps should be taken. Locating a suitable work area is extremely important. A shop is, of course, the most desirable place to work. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the vehicle, is very important. If a shop or garage is not available, use a flat, level, clean work surface made of concrete If it

or asphalt.

Cleaning the engine compartment and engine prior to removal

will

help keep tools clean and organized.

An engine hoist or A-frame will also be necessary. Make sure that the equipment is rated in excess of the combined weight of the engine and its accessories. Safety is of primary importance, considering the potential hazards involved in lifting the engine out of the vehicle. If the engine is being removed by a novice, a helper should be Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances in which one person cannot simultaneously perform all of the operations necessary to lift the engine out of the vehicle. Plan the operation ahead of time. Obtain all of the tools and equipment you will need-or know where to get them-prior to beginning the job. Some of the equipment necessary for safe and easy engine removal and installation are an engine hoist, a heavy duty floor jack, complete sets of wrenches and sockets as described in the front of this manual, wooden blocks and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up the inevitable spills. If you plan to rent a hoist, arrange for it in advance and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you available.

money and

If you are planning 5 a complete overhaul, the engine must be disassembled in the following order: External engine components Oil pan Cylinder head cover Timing cover Silent Shaft chain and sprockets (2.6L engine only) Timing belt/chain and sprockets Intermediate shaft and sprocket (2.2L engine only) Cylinder head and camshaft Oil pump (2.2L engine only) Piston/connecting rod assemblies Front oil seal housing (2.2L engine only) Rear oil seal housing Crankshaft Left Silent Shaft (2.6L engine only) Oil pump/right Silent Shaft (2.6L engine only) 6 Before beginning the disassembly and overhaul procedures, make

sure the following items are available:

Common

Micrometers Telescoping gauges Dial indicator set

time.

Valve spring compressor

Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for a considerable period of time.

A machine shop

Cylinder surfacing hone Piston ring groove cleaning tool

must for that work which you cannot accomplish without special skills and equipment. Machine shops often have busy schedules, so it's a good idea to coordinate your plans for overhaul work with your local shop. Careful planning will result in less down is

hand tools

Small cardboard boxes or plastic bags for storing parts Gasket scraper Ridge reamer Vibration damper puller

a

time for your vehicle. Always use extreme caution when removing and installing the engine. Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead. If you take your time and think out each step before you proceed, even a job of this magnitude can be accomplished successfully.

Electric

Tap and

drill

motor

die set

Wire brushes Cleaning solvent

7

Cylinder head

—

disassembly

Refer to illustrations 7.2a, 7.2b and 7.3

6

Engine overhaul

—

disassembly sequence

Note: Cylinder head service involves removal and disassembly of the and exhaust valves and their related components. Because some specialized tools are necessary for disassembly and inspection and because replacement parts are not always readily availintake

much

work on the engine if it is engine stand, which can usually be rented for a reasonable fee from an equipment rental yard. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate should be removed f r om the engine (refer to Part A or B). If you can't find a stand suitable for your engine, you can block 2 it up on a sturdy workbench or on the floor. If you elect to work on the engine in this manner, be extra careful not to tip or drop it. If you are performing a complete engine rebuild yourself, the follow3 ing external components will have to come off. Even if you are going to obtain a rebuilt engine, the same components must still be removed from the old engine so they can be installed on the rebuilt. In general, 1

It

is

mounted on

easier to disassemble and

a portable

this includes:

Alternator and brackets

Emissions control components Distributor, spark plug wires and spark plugs Thermostat and housing

Water pump Carburetor Intake/exhaust manifolds Oil filter

it may be more practical and economical for the home mechanic purchase a replacement head rather than taking the time to disas-

able, to

semble, inspect and recondition the original head. New and rebuilt cylinder heads for most engines are usually available at dealerships and auto parts stores. 1 The jet valves should be removed from the cylinder head or the 2.6L engine before removal of the intake and exhaust valves. Use a six-point socket and a breaker bar to unscrew them. Caution: Do not tilt the socket — excessive force exerted on the valve spring retainers can easily bend the jet valve stems. Label each jet valve to ensure installation in its original position. The jet valves can be disassembled by carefully compressing the spring and removing the keepers, the retainer and the spring. Slide the valve out of the body and pull off the seal with a pair of pliers. Discard the old seals. Use new ones during reassembly. Do not allow the parts for one jet valve assembly to become accidentally interchanged with those of another. Before removing the valves, arrange to label and store them, along 2 with their related components, so they can be stored separately and reinstalled in the same valve guides from which they are removed.

Chapter 2 Part C

90

General engine overhaul procedures

VALVE

TIP

MINIMUM CLEARANCE

SPRING RETAINER

1.25mm

(.050 inch)

i_

T INSTALLED

HEIGHT

On 2.2L

7.2b

engines, the valve spring installed height

is

measured from the upper edge of the retainer (note the minimum clearance required between the rocker arm and retainer

7.2a

—

if

the valves are serviced, the clearance may not be correct)

Measuring the "alve spring installed height with a dial caliper

The Jet

air

Cylinder head

—

8.4

EGR ports and clean and clear

passages,

oil

holes must be

Use a valve spring compressor to compress the valve springs, then remove the keepers from the valve stem (a

7.3

magnet

or needle-nose pliers

may be needed) 8

Measure the valve spring

installed height of

each valve and compare

it to the Specifications (see illustration). If it is greater than specified, the valve seats and faces need attention. Note: On 2.2L engines, the valve spring installed height is measured from the bottom of the spring to the upper edge of the retainer (see illustration). Compress the valve springs on the first valve with a spring com3 pressor and remove the keepers (see illustration). Carefully release the valve spring compressor and remove the retainer, the springs, the valve stem seal, the spring seat and the valve from the head. If the valve binds in tr e guide and won't come out, push it back into the head and deburr the area around the keeper groove with a fine file or whetstone. 4 Repeat this procedure for each of the remaining valves. Remember to keep all the parts for each valve together so they can be reinstalled in the same locations. 5 Once the valves have been removed and safely stored, the head should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected. If a complete engine overhaul is being done, finish the engine disassembly procedures before beginning the cylinder head cleaning and inspection process.

cleaning and inspection

Refer to illustrations 8.4,8.11, 8. 12, 8. 14, 8. 16, 8. 18, 8.20, 8.21, 8.22, 8.24a, 8.24b, 8.25a and 8.25b 1

Thorough cleaning

of the cylinder

8. 19a, 8. 19b,

head and related valve

train

com-

ponents, followed by a detailed inspection, will enable you to decide how much valve service work must be done during the engine overhaul.

Cleaning Scrape away all traces of old gasket material and sealing compound 2 from the head gasket, intake manifold and exhaust manifold sealing surfaces. Caution: Do not gouge the cylinder head. Special gasket removal solvents which dissolve the gasket, making removal much easier, are available at auto parts stores.

3

Remove any

4

Run

the

jet air

up scale around the coolant passages. brush through the oil holes, the EGR gas ports and passages to remove any deposits that may have formed in built

a stiff wire

them (see illustration). 5 Run an appropriate size tap into each of the threaded holes to remove any corrosion and thread sealant that may be present. If compressed

air is

available,

use

it

to clear the holes of debris produced

1

Chapter 2 Part C

General engine overhaul procedures

8.12 8.11

91

The cylinder head can be checked for warpage with a straightedge and feeler gauges

Inspect the camshaft bearing caps for signs of wear and damage such as galling and pitting

Look for wear and damage on the rocker arm and adjusting screw surfaces that contact the cam lobe and valve

8.16

Inspection

8.14

A

dial indicator

can be used to check

for

excessive

valve stem-to-guide clearance

by

this operation.

compressed

air to

Warning: Always wear safety goggles when using

blow away

debris.

Clean the exhaust and intake manifold stud threads with an appropriate size die. Clean the rocker arm pivot bolt or stud threads with 6

a wire brush.

7 Clean the cylinder head with solvent and dry it thoroughly. Compressed air will speed the drying process and ensure that all holes and recessed areas are clean. Note: Decarbonizing chemicals may prove helpful for cleaning cylinder heads and valve train components. They are very caustic and should be used with caution. Be sure to follow the instructions on the container. Without dismantling the rocker arm assembly, clean the rocker 8 arms and shafts with solvent and dry them thoroughly. Compressed air will speed the drying process and can be used to clean out the oil passages. Clean all the valve springs, keepers and retainers with solvent and 9 dry them thoroughly. Clean these assemblies one at a time to avoid mixing up the parts. 1 Scrape off any heavy deposits that may have formed on the valves, then use a motorized wire brush to remove the remaining deposits from the valve heads and stems. Again, do not mix up the valves. If you are servicing the 2.6L cylinder head, you will also want to clean the jet valve components with solvent. Do one jet valve assembly at a time so that the parts are not accidentally interchanged. Carefully remove any deposits from the stems and valve heads with a fine wire brush. Caution: Do not bend the valve stems of the jet valves while cleaning them.

Cylinder head 1 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks, evidence of coolant leakage and other damage. If cracks are discovered, a new cylinder head must be obtained. Check the camshaft bearing surfaces in the head and the bearing caps (see illustration). If there is evidence of excessive cam bearing galling or scoring, the head must be replaced. Failure to do so can lead to camshaft seizure. 12 Using a straightedge and feeler gauge, check the head gasket mating surface for warpage (see illustration). If the warpage exceeds the specified amount, the head should be resurfaced at an automotive machine shop. 1 3 Examine the valve seats in each of the combustion chambers. If they are pitted, cracked or burned, take the head to an automotive machine shop for a valve job. This procedure is byond the scope of the home mechanic. 1 4 Check the valve stem-to-valve guide clearance. Use a dial indicator to measure the lateral movement of each valve stem with the valve in the guide and raised off the seat slightly (see illustration). If there is still some doubt regarding the condition of the valve guides after this check, the exact clearance and condition of the guides can be checked by an automotive machine shop.

Rocker arm assembly (2.2L engine) The rocker arms on the 2.2L engine ride below the camshaft and 1 5 contact the valve stem at one end and the hydraulic lash adjuster at the other end. Check each rocker arm for wear, galling and pitting of the contact surfaces. Inspect the lash adjuster contact surfaces for pitting and wear as well.

Rocker arm assembly (2.6L engine) 1 6 The rocker arms on the 2.6L engine are mounted on shafts that rest in the camshaft bearing caps. The rocker arms contact the valve on one end and the camshaft on the other end. Check the rocker arm faces that contact the camshaft lobes and the ends of the adjusting screws that contact the valve stems. Look for pitting, excessive wear and roughness (see illustration).

92

Chapter 2 Part C

General engine overhaul procedures 17 Check the adjusting screw threads for damage. Make sure they can be threaded in and out of the rocker arms. 1 8 Slide each rocker arm along the shaft, against the locating spring pressure, and check the shaft for excessive wear and evidence of scoring in the areas that normally contact the rocker arms (see illustration). 19 Any damaged or excessively worn parts must be replaced with new ones. Refer to the accompanying exploded view of the rocker arm assembly components for the correct sequence of disassembly and reassembly (see illustrations).

Camshaft 20 Inspect the camshaft bearing journals

for excessive wear and evidence of galling, scoring or seizure (see illustration). If the journals are damaged, the bearing surfaces in the head and bearing caps are probably damaged as well. Both the camshaft and cylinder head will have to be replaced. 21 Check the cam lobes for grooves, flaking, pitting and scoring. Measure the cam lobe height and compare it to the Specifications (see

8.18

Check the rocker arm shafts

OIL HOLES

wear and damage

CAP NO.

SHAFT, RIGHT

SHAFT, LEFT (12

for

illustration). If the lobe height is less than the minimum specified, and/or the lobes are damaged, get a new camshaft. 22 To determine the extent of cam lobe wear on the 2.2L engine,

CAP, REAR

3

AT SHAFT BOTTOM)

AT SHAFT

OIL HOLES

BOTTOM

FRONT BEARING CAP

CAP NO.

4

FRONT OF ENGINE

FRONT OF ENGINE SPRING, 64.5

—

FREE LENGTH:

mm

cylinders. Remember to keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up. Once the ring end gaps have been checked and corrected, the rings 8 can be installed on the pistons. 9 The oil control ring (lowest one on the piston) is installed first. It is composed of three separate components. Slip the spacer/expander into the groove (see illustration), then install the lower side rail with the size mark and manufacturer's stamp facing up. Do not use a piston ring installation tool on the oil ring side rails, as they may be damaged. Instead, place one end of the side rail into the groove between the spacer/expander and the ring land, hold it firmly in place and slide a finger around the piston while pushing the rail into the groove (see illustration). Next, install the upper side rail in the same manner. 10 After the three oil ring components have been installed, check to make sure that both the upper and lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the ring groove. Position the end gaps correctly (see 6

recommended.

illustration).

Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of interrelated causes. Excessive engine operation heat thins the oil. Overloading between journals and bearing surfaces sometimes

a

5

—

of the

The number two (middle) ring is installed next. It is stamped with mark which should face toward the top of the piston (see illustration). Note: Always follow the instructions printed on the ring package or 1

Chapter 2 Part C

prior to

18.9a

Installing the

GAP OF LOWER

to square up the ring in the cylinder checking the ring end gap

Use the piston

18.3a

spacer/expander groove