Haynes Dodge & Plymouth Vans 1971 thru 1977 Owners Workshop Manual 0856963496, 9780856963490

Citation preview

DODGE PLYMOUTH VANS i

1971 thru 1977d 6cyl

& V8

Compact & Voyager Van range

Owners Workshop Manual

Dodge & Plymouth Vans

Owners Workshop Manual byJHHaynes Member

of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and P B Ward Models covered Dodge: B100, B200, B300, CB300, MB300and MB400. 1971 thru 1977. 225 cu in and V8 318, 360, 400 and 440 cu in engines

6-cylinder

Plymouth: PB 1 00, PB200 and PB300, 1 974 thru and V8 31 8, 360, 400 and 440 cu in engines

1

977. 6-cylinder 225 cu

in

Covers manual and automatic versions of the above

ISBN

©

85696 349 6 Haynes Publishing Group 1978

No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder. All rights reserved.

Printed

in

England

® HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET ENGLAND distributed in the

USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK

INC

CALIFORNIA 91320 USA

_

Acknowledgments Special thanks are due to the Chrysler Corporation for the supply and certain illustrations used in this manual.

of technical information

The Champion Sparking Plug Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plugs conditions. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Lloyds Industries Limited who supply Turtle Wax', Dupli-color Holts', and other Holts

range products. Lastly, thanks are due to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. Particularly Brian Horsfall and Les Brazier who carried out the mechanical work and took the photographs respectively, Ian Robson who planned the layout of each page and Da^id Neilson who edited the text.

About this Manual Its

aims The aim

manual

you

from can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a service station), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the vehicle into a service station, and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the service station must charge to cover its labor and overheads The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work. your vehicle.

fts

of this It

can do so

in

is

to help

several ways.

to get the best value

It

arrangement The manual

is

divided into twelve Chapters, each covering a The Chapters are each divided into

logical sub-division of the vehicle.

numbered with

Sections,

paragraphs

the Section they are

in,

eg

and the Sections into with decimal numbers following on from

single figures, eg 5;

(or sub-sections), 5.1

,

5.2, 5.3 etc).

where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustrations: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in It

is

freely illustrated, especially in those parts

sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter: eg Fig 6.4 is the 4th drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs are numbered (either individually or in related groups) the same as the Section or sub-section of the text where the operation they

show

is

described.

There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. References to the left' or right' of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

1

Contents Chapter

Page

Acknowledgements

About

this

2

manual

2

Glossary

6

Introduction to the Plymouth Voyager and

Dodge Compact Range

7

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

7

Tools and working

9

facilities

Routine maintenance

11

Jacking and towing

13

Lubrication chart

14

Chapter

Engine

15

Chapter 2

Cooling system

52

Chapter 3

Fuel,

Chapter 4

Ignition

Chapter 5

Clutch

112

Chapter 6

Manual and automatic transmission

117

Chapter 7

Propeller shaft

154

Chapter 8

Rear axle

157

Chapter 9

Braking system

165

1

emission control and exhaust systems

101

system

Chapter 10 Electrical system

Chapter

1

Chapter 12

Index

58

184

Suspension and steering

223

Bodywork and

242

fittings

268

(0

>

O a.

c £ o

a (/>

•

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>

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o.

r^

!

Use

of English

As this book has been written in England, it uses the appropriate English component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these differ from those used in America. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. In ordering spare parts remember the parts list will probably use these words:

English

American

English

American

Aerial

Antenna Gas pedal

Layshaft

(of gearbox) Leading shoe (of brake) Locks

Countershaft Primary shoe Latches Freeway, turnpike etc License plate

Accelerator Alternator Anti-roll bar Battery

Generator (AC) Energizer

Motorway Number plate

Bodywork

Sheet metal

Paraffin

Kerosene

Bonnet (engine cover) Boot lid Boot (luggage compartment) Bottom gear Bulkhead

Hood

Petrol

Trunk lid Trunk 1st gear

Petrol tank

Gasoline Gas tank

Propeller shaft

Driveshaft

Fiiswall

Quarter light Retread Reverse Rocker cover

Quarter

Cam

Stabiliser or

sway bar

Valve lifter or tappet Carburetor Latch

follower or tappet

Carburettor

Catch Choke/venturi

Crownwheel

Snap-ring Lash Ring gear

Disc (brake)

Rotor/disk

Drop arm Drop head coupe

window

Recap Back-up Valve cover Car-top carrier

Roof rack Saloon Seized

Barrel

Circlip

Pinging'

Pinking'

Sedan

Pitman arm

Side indicator lights Side light Silencer

Frozen Side marker lights Parking light Muffler

Convertible

Spanner

Wrench

Dynamo

Generator (DC)

Sill

Earth (electrical) Engineer's blue

Ground

Estate car

Station

Exhaust manifold Fast back (Coupe)

Header Hard top

Sump

Oil

Tab washer

Tang; lock

Fault finding/diagnosis

Trouble shooting

Tailgate

Liftgate

Tappet

Valve

Throw-out bearing

Panel wagon/van Vise Lug nut

Clearance

Float

(of differential

Rocker panel panel (beneath doors) Split cotter (for valve spring cap) Lock (for valve spring retainer) Split pin Cotter pin Steering arm Spindle arm

Prussian blue

chamber

Float

wagon

bowl

Gearchange Gearbox

Transmission

Halfshaft

Axleshaft

Thrust bearing Top gear Trackrod (of steering) Trailing shoe (of brake) Transmission Tyre

Free-play

Freewheel

Lash Coast

Gudgeon

Piston pin or wrist pin

pin

Shift

Handbrake

Parking brake

Van

Hood

Soft top

Vice

Hot spot

Heat riser Turn signal

Wheel nut

Indicator Interior light

Dome lamp

Wing/mudguard

Windscreen

pan

lifter

High Tie-rod (or connecting rod)

Secondary shoe

Whole

drive line

Tire

Windshield Fender

Miscellaneous points

An

oil

seal

A damper'

is is

fitted to

a

components

shock absorber',

lubricated by grease it

damps

out bouncing, and absorbs shocks of

bump

impact. Both

names

are correct, and both are used

haphazardly

drum brakes

are different from the Bendix type that is common in America, so different descriptive names result. The shoe wheel cylinder is on a pivot; interconnection between the shoes as on Bendix brakes is most uncommon. Therefore the phrase Primary or Secondary' shoe does not apply. A shoe is said to be Leading' or Trailing'. A Leading' shoe is one on which a point on the drum, as it rotates forward, reaches the shoe at the end worked by the hydraulic cylinder before the anchor end. The opposite is a Trailing' shoe, and this one has no self servo from the wrapping effect o* the rotating drum.

Note

end

that British

furthest from the hydraulic

Introduction to the

Plymouth Voyager and Dodge Compact Range The Dodge Compact models were introduced in mid-1970 to replace the earlier A100/108 models. From the start, these models were a great success in a competitive market, not only for the general trade and passenger-carrying duties, but also with those people interested in customizing. The range was supplemented in 1974 with the Plymouth Voyager which appeared as a passenger-carrying variant only. The original Dodge version used a 6-cylinder 225 cu in in-line

V8 engine of either 318 or 360 cu in capacity; these had 3-speed manual or a 3-speed automatic transmission. Since then, modifications include engine capacities increased to 400 and 440 cu in as options and a 4-speed manual transmission. All vehicles are conventional in design with independent front suspension and leaf spring rear suspension. The body is a unitized construction on all van type models, but a separate chassis is used for

engine, or a either a

Kary Van models.

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Chrysler and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as follows: Officially appointed Chrysler dealers - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your vehicle and otherwise not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal transmission components, badges, interior trim, etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your vehicle is still under warranty; nonChrysler components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it will always be necessary to give the storeman your vehicle's engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the old part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go to the specialists on your vehicle for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Service stations and accessory shops - These are often very good places to buy material and components needed for the maintenance of your vehicle (eg filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors - Good factors will stock all the more important dealers, service stations

Dodge Fargo

components which wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinder/pipes/hoses/ seals/shoes and pads etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part-exchange basis - this can save a considerable

amount

money.

of

Vehicle identification

numbers

Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacture quite apart from major model changes. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a numerical basis, the individual vehicle number being essential to correct identification of the com-

ponent required. The vehicle identification number

is

located on a plate which

The engine number

is

stamped on

a plate in

one

of the following

positions.

Below No

225

cu in 3 1 8/360 cu 400 cu in

in

1

spark plug.

Left front of cylinder block

Right side of cylinder block adjacent to distributor

440

Top of cylinder block adjacent to tappet rail cu in models have an equipment identification plate on the inner surface of the engine compartment hood (photo). Later models also have a vehicle safety certification label on the All

rear face of the driver's door.

VlymoutH Oh SOTO

MARCAS REG TMS REG US PAT OFF

GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT iGVWI

IS

TOTAL WEIGHT OF

4fc.

CHRYSLER

THE VEHICLE INCLUDING OPTIONS. DRIVER. PASSENGERS. ^!i& corporation BODY & PAYLOAD 'SEE OPERATORS MANUAL PACKAGE FOR SPECIFIC EQUIPMENT REQUIRED FOR A GIVEN GVW RATING WARRANTY VOID IF ANY RATINGS ARE EXCEEDED FOR THE ACTUAL GVW & GAWR RATINGS OF THIS VEHICLE, SEE THE MADE IN U S A SAFETY CERTIFICATION LABEL

Vehicle identification

number

plate

is

fixed to the rear face of the driver's door.

Vehicle safety certification label

i

225

cu

in

engine number location

318/360 cu

440 cu

400 cu

in

in

in

engine number location

engine number location

engine number location

DESCRIPTION

DESCRIPTION .

-

...

./-*

-

_

j

-

-

Is*i

»^

- -

—

-

-

.DOE

VI

EQUIPMENT "Jue N EQUIPMENT GROUP ANO SPECIAL

Equipment

identification label

"•«

—

Tools and working

facilities

Introduction

A

included

good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerselection of

expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-itHowever, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair. Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grow, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourself owner will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Special category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use these tools will be put to. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this manual. able

yourself.

We

the set.

in

recommend

the y inch square-drive type,

as

can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box wrenches are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list. this

Sockets

(or

box wrenches)

to

cover range

^to)^inAF

Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets)

Torque wrench

(for

Self-grip

wrench

Ball pein

hammer

-

use with sockets)

8

inch

Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber Screwdriver - 6 in long x ^ in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 2 in long x ^ in square (flat blade) Screwdriver - 1 \ in long x \ in dia (cross blade) Screwdriver - 3 in long x \ in dia (electricians) Pliers

-

electricians side cutters

Pliers

-

needle nosed

Pliers

-

circlip (internal

Cold chisel

-

Scriber (this blade)

Scraper

and external)

\ inch can be made by grinding the end of a broken hacksaw

(this

can be

made by

flattening

and sharpening one end of

a piece of copper pipe)

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

Center punch

should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of wrench.

The

tools given

in

this

list

Adjustable wrench - 9 inch Engine oil pan/transmission/rear axle drain plug key (where applic-

Pin

punch

Hacksaw Valve grinding tool Steel rule/straight edge Allen keys Selection of files Wire brush (large) Jack stands Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

able)

Special tools

Spark plug wrench (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake adjuster wrench (where applicable) Brake bleed nipple wrench Screwdriver - 4 in long x ^ in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 4 in long x \ in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw, junior

The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers' instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or an automobile owners' club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local service

Tire

station or tool hire specialist.

contains only those tools and instruments freely and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers' special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturer's special tool is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the

The following

pump

Tire pressure

list

available to the public,

gauge

Grease gun (where applicable) Oil can Fine emery cloth (1 sheet)

Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed you to entrust the

work

to a franchised dealer.

Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair list. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found repairs to a

invaluable as they are so versatile

-

particularly

if

various drives are

Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator Universal hub/bearing puller Impact screwdriver

will

have

Tools and working

10 Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Dial gauge

facilities

gauges, meters,

damaged Take

Stroboscopic timing light

etc,

must be

become rusty. little care when the

carefully stored

where they cannot be

or

a

Hammer heads

tools are used.

inevitably

edge on their blades timely attention with emery cloth or a file this to a good serviceable finish.

Dwell angle meter/tachometer

become marked and screwdrivers

Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge

from time-to-time. A little will soon restore items like

lose the keen

Lifting tackle

Workshop

Working

trolley jack

Light with extension lead

Buying tools all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will comprehensive range compared with the average repair station or accessory store. Having said that, accessory stores often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop

For practically

have

a very

around.

Remember, you don't have

to buy the most expensive items on the always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the shelf, but

proprietor

it

is

or

manager

of

the

store

for

advice

before

making

a

purchase.

facilities

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. many an owner mechanic is forced by It is appreciated that circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vise: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which soon become necessary.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased

reasonable tool

necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers, is a good idea. Store all normal wrenches and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, a

kit, it is

Wrench jaw gap comparison Jaw gap (in)

Wrench

250 275 312

i

0-315

8

340 354 375 393 433 437 445 472 500 0-512 0-525 551

in

35

in

AF;^

1 1 1

in

Whitworth

mm AF mm AF mm AF

10

£ ^

1

4-

AF

in

Whitworth;!

600 625 629 669 687 708 710 748 750 812 820 866

4

in

Whitworth; f

f

in

AF

1

BSF

1

6

1

7

AF

mm AF

5

in

BSF

mm AF mm AF

% inAF 18 f

mm AF

in

19

mm AF

fc

in in

Whitworth; \

22

in

BSF

supply of old newspapers and keep any working area as

|inAF in

Whitworth; £

ji

in

AF

in

BSF

^ in Whitworth; f in BSF 26 mm AF 1^in AF;27 mm AF fin Whitworth; 1£ inAF

1

•181

30

1

200 250 259 300

1

312

1

390 417 1 437 1 480 1 500 1 574 1 614 1 625 1 670 1- 687 1

811

1- 812

860 875

968 000 2 050 1-

BSF

24 mm AF 1 inAF

100

1-

in

size

•125

1-

mm AF

\

023 062

Wrench

(in

1

1fe

AF AF

1 in

8

Whitworth;

•944 -000 •010

1

in

mm

h

920 937

BSF

mm

562 590

0875

in

AF

13 AF ! in Whitworth; ^ 14 AF in

a

try to

1

1

mm AF

in

1

1

in

12

always keep and

clean as possible.

AF

| inAF 1

Last, but not least,

clean, lint-free rags available,

Jaw gap

size

£inAF mm AF

9

lights.

table

mm AF

7

Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of t least j| in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for installing accessories such as wing mirrors and back-up

Whitworth; \ 1|in AF 32 mm AF f in Whitworth; | 1| inAF % in Whitworth; {§ 1,1 in

1

40

mm AF: mm AF

}§

in

1

BSF

in

BSF

in

BSF

in

BSF

Whitworth

1f inAF in Whitworth; 1|

1

1 {J

in

BSF

inAF

46 mm AF 18 inAF 1£ 1^

in

Whitworth; }}

in

BSF

in

BSF

AF 50 mm AF

2

$ 55 1

in

inAF

2

2

in

AF

Whitworth; jin AF in

41

BSF

mm AF

36 j

in

mm AF

in

,^

2

165 362

jJ

in

Whitworth;

mm AF 60 mm AF

1

f

Routine maintenance Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purposes of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from the vehicle. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication oiling, greasing and so on - has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the items either no longer exist or will last for ever. This

that the largest

This

may

initial

is

a serious delusion.

element of maintenance

is

It

follows therefore

visual examination.

more

Check free-play

at release lever

Lubricate pivots

Suspension and steering Check level of lubricant in manual steering box Check balljoints. gear and linkage for wear

Check fluid

level in

power steering fluid

reservoir

Lubricate steering linkage

lead to repairs or renewals.

summary given here the essential for safety' items are bold type. These must be attended to at the regular frequencies shown in order to avoid the possibility of accidents and loss of life. Other neglect results in unreliability, increased running costs, In

shown

Clutch

the

Lubricate steering swivel wheel stops (wax-type lubricant)

in

rapid

wear and more

rapid depreciation of the vehicle

in

Body Lubricate hinges and locks

general.

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months Every 250 miles travelled or weekly

-

whichever comes

-

whichever comes

first

Engine

Renew

Engine

Check the oil pan oil level and top-up if required Check the radiator coolant level and top-up, if required Check the battery electrolyte level and top-up to the level of the plates with distilled water, as needed

Check

change)

antifreeze

Emission control

Check condition of all hoses Clean crankcase inlet air cleaner Renew vapor storage canister filter element Clean PCV valve, hoses and passages

Steering

Check the tire pressures Examine tires for wear or damage Is steering smooth and accurate?

Brakes

Check wear Lights, wipers all

oil

reservoir fluid level

Is there any fall off in braking efficiency? Try an emergency stop. Is adjustment necessary?

Do

time of engine

air

Renew

Brakes

oil filter (at

cleaner element Check reluctor air-gap (electronic ignition) Renew spark plugs Renew distributor points (breaker point ignition) Check condition of cooling system hoses

Clean

of disc

pads and brake

linings

and horns

bulbs work at the front and rear?

Transmission

Are the headlamp beams aligned properly? Do the wipers and horns work? Check windshield washer fluid level

Inspect universal joints on propeller shaft for

'ADD OIL" Every 6000 miles or 6 months

-

whichever comes

wear

MARK

first

Engine

Check and adjust idle and fast idle speeds Change oil Check condition of emission control hoses Check exhaust system for leaks Clean distributor points and check gap (breaker point

ignition)

Lubricate controls Clean spark plugs and check gap Check tension of drivebelts

Transmission Check transmission

Check

fluid level

rear axle fluid level

Lubricate propeller shaft slip spline

"FULL"

MARK

Brakes

Check condition of hoses and brake lines Check for leaks at calipers, master or wheel cylinder Lubricate pedal linkage

Engine

oil

dipstick

- typical

first

Routine maintenance

12

Oil filter-

Oil filter

-225

cu

318/360 cu

in

in

FILTER

Oil filter -

400/440 cu

in

Cleaning

Every

1

air

ELEMENT

cleaner element

8 000 miles or

1

8 months

-

whichever comes

first

Engine Adjust valve lash (225 cu

Renew

in

engine)

fuel filter

Emission control system Clean manifold heat control valve Check operation of EGR system Transmission Drain and refill rear axle (severe service conditions) Drain and refill manual transmission (severe service conditions) Drain and refill automatic transmission, and adjust bands (severe service conditions)

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

-

whichever comes

Engine

Renew

air

cleaner element

Brake master cylinder reservoir Suspension and steering Adjust and lubricate front wheel bearings

first

Routine maintenance Drain and

Every 30 000 miles or 2\ years

-

whichever comes

refill

automatic transmission (normal service conditions)

first

Braking system Drain system, renew

Emission control

Renew PCV

13

valve

Every 36 000 miles or 3 years Transmission Drain and

refill

Drain and

refill

all

rubber seals and hoses, and

refill

with

new

fluid

-

whichever comes

Every 48 000 miles or 4 years

first

-

whichever comes

Suspension Dismantle and inspect rear wheel bearings

rear axle (normal service conditions) manual transmission (normal service conditions)

first

(full-floating axle)

LOWER SUSPENSION BALL JOINT

TIE

ROD END BALL JOINT

Steering and front suspension lubrication points

Jacking and Towing When using a conventional hydraulic jack, it may be positioned beneath the front axle crossmember or lower control arm, or beneath the rear axle adjacent to the spring U-bolts. If one side of the vehicle is to be raised, always use a jack front and rear; never use a single jack midway along

the vehicle.

Where

a

bumper

jack

is

provided, this

is

intended for wheel changing only, and must not be relied upon when working beneath the vehicle. A vehicle may be towed from the lower control arm, and may tow other vehicles from the rear axle tube. Precautions regarding towing automatic transmission models, are given in Chapter 6.

>

14'

Chassis lubrication points Item

No

1

Item

Lubricant

Steering balljoints

Multipurpose grease Multipurpose grease Multipurpose grease Multipurpose grease Dexron automatic transmission Dexron automatic transmission Multipurpose grease Multipurpose grease Hypoid gear oil. 90EP * Multipurpose grease

Suspension balljoints Front wheel bearings

2

3 4 5

Clutch linkage Manual transmission Automatic transmission

6

Universal joints

7

Slip spline

8 9

Rear axle Rear wheel bearings

•

Use 4oz

Friction Modifier

(Mopar PIN 4057100) on Sure-Grip and Trac-Lok

axles.

Engine lubricant Brake fluid

Multigrade, API classification

Antifreeze

Ethylene-glycol

D0T3orSAE J1703C

SE/CC

fluid fluid

1

Chapter

Engine

1

Contents Part

A

—

6-cylinder engine

Part B

components- installation Ancillary components - removal Camshaft and bearings - examination and renovation Camshaft and timing gear - installation Connecting rods and bearings - examination and

39

renovation

19 16

Ancillary

Crankcase ventilation system Crankshaft and main bearings

-

Engine - removal and installation Engine adjustment after major servicing Engine cover - removal and installation Engine dismantling - general Engine mounts - removal and installation Engine oil seals - renewal with engine dismantled Engine oil seals - renewal with engine installed Examination and renovation - general Fault diagnosis - engine Flywheel (or driveplate) - examination and renovation General description Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle Oil pan - removal and installation (engine in the vehicle) Oil pump - removal and installation Oil

reassembly and installation - removal and dismantling Pistons and piston rings - examination and renovation Pushrods and valve lifters - examination and renovation Rocker components - installation and initial valve adjustment Rocker components - removal Rocker gear - examination and renovation Timing components - examination and renovation Timing cover and chain - removal and chain inspection Valves and valve seats - examination and renovation Valve guides - examination and renovation Valve lifters and camshaft - removal -

22 36

examination and

renovation Crankshaft and main bearings - installation Crankshaft and main bearings - removal Cylinder bores - examination and renovation Cylinder head - decarbonizing and examination Cylinder head - dismantling Cylinder head - reassembly and installation Cylinder head - removal Engine - preparation for reassembly

pump - servicing Pistons and connecting rods Pistons and connecting rods

6

18

34 15

20 29 9

37

—

8-cylinder engine components- installation Ancillary components - removal Camshaft and bearings - examination and renovation Camshaft and timing gear - installation Connecting rods and bearing - examination and

Ancillary

Crankcase ventilation system Crankshaft and main bearings

-

Cylinder head

-

17

42 23 1

2 13 1

30 35 14 21

28 38 7

25 24 10 27 26 12

examination and

reassembly and installation removal - preparation for reassembly - removal and installation adjustment after major servicing cover - removal and installation

Cylinder head

32

Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine dismantling - general Engine mounts - removal and installation Engine oil seals - renewal with engine dismantled Examination and renovation - general Fault diagnosis - engine Flywheel (or driveplate) - examination and renovation General description Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle Oil pan - removal and installation Oil pump - removal and installation

pump - servicing Pistons and connecting rods - reassembly and installation Pistons and connecting rods - removal and dismantling Pistons and piston rings - examination and renovation Pushrods and valve lifters - examination and renovation

Oil

Rocker components - installation Rocker components - removal Rocker gear - examination and renovation Timing components - examination and renovation Timing cover and chain - removal and chain inspection Valves and valve seats - examination and renovation Valve guides - examination and renovation Valve lifters and camshaft - removal

Specifications

Engine type

6-cylinder, in-line

6-cylinder engine

Capacity

225cuin

Bore

3.40

Stroke

4.125in

in

78

58 -

renovation Crankshaft and main bearings - installation Crankshaft and main bearings - removal Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal with engine installed Cylinder bores - examination and renovation Cylinder head - decarbonizing and examination Cylinder head - dismantling

8

3 5 41 31

48 64

61

renovation

33 4

40

81

OR

8-cylinder, V-configuration

60 76 57 74 62 71 51

79 50 75 46 82 45 47 83 73 59 84 65 43

44 53 54 72 77 56 63 70 80 49 67 66 52 69 68 55

Chapter

16

1

Engine

Firingorder

See Chapter 4 Specifications

Idiespeed

See Chapter 3 Specifications

Compression ratio

8.4:1

Minimum cylinder compression Warm engine, plugs removed, throttle wide open

Maximum variation between cylinders

1

00 lbf/in 2

25lbf/in 2

Crankshaft Number of main bearings Main bearing

journal diameter permitted out of round Main bearing running clearance Running clearance wear limit Crankshaft endplay Bearing shells interchangeable:

2.7495 to2. 7505

Maximum

0.001

Upper Lower Main bearing undersizes

2 and

in

in

0.0005 to 0.001 5 0.0025 in 0.002 to 0.007 in

in

4

1,2,4 0.001 0.002, 0.003, 0.01 ,

0,

0.01 2

in

0,

0.01 2

in

Connecting rods Length (center-to-center) Connecting rod bearing diameter Connecting rod bearing width: Forged crankshaft Cast crankshaft Running clearance Running clearance wear limit

6.697 to 6.701 2.1870in 1.0151 0.7 15

in

in

in

0.0005 to 0.002 in 0.0025 in 0.006 to 0.01 2 in

Side float

Connecting rod bearing undersizes Piston pin bore diameter

0.001 0.002, 0.003, 0.01 ,

0.8995

to

0.9000

in

Camshaft Drive No. of bearings Running clearance Running clearance wear limit Camshaft bearing journal diameters: No. 1 No. 2

Chain from crankshaft

4 0.001 to 0.003

0.005

1.998 to 1.999 1.982 to 1.983 1.967 to 1.968 1.951 to 1.952

No.3 No.4 Camshaft bearing diameters

in

in

in

in in in

(after reaming):

No. 1 No. 2

2.000 to 2.001 in 1.984 to 1.985 in 1.969 to 1.970 in 1.953 to 1.954 in

No.3 No.4

Timing chain No. of links

50

Pitch

0.50 0.88

Width

Valve

in in

lifters

Type Diameter

Mechanical, hollow

0.9040

Clearance of valve-lifter

in

block

0.9045

in

0.001 3 to 0.0026

in

to

Pistons Material

Clearance

in

bore (measured at top of

skirt)

Aluminum alloy, tin coated 0.0005 to 0.001 5 in

Weight

465 gm

Overall length Piston oversizes

3.51 in 0.005, 0.020, 0.040

Groove depths: Top compression Second compression Oil control

Piston rings Width Compression Oil control

0.1

0.1

79 79

0.181

in

in

in

0.0775 0.0235

to to

0.0780 in 0.0252 in

in

Chapter End gaps: Compression in

Engine

17

0.010to0.020in 0.01 5 to 0.055 in

Oil control

Clearance

1

groove:

Compression

0.001 5 to 0.0030

Oil control

0.0002

Piston pins Type Diameter Length Clearance

in

Interference

to

0.005

Interference

piston in rod (pin oversize)

fit

fit

in

in

in

connecting rod

0.9007 to 0.9009 in 2.955to2.976in 0.00035 to 0.00085 0.0007 to 0.001 7 in

in

Valves Head diameter: 1.615to1.625in

Intake

1.355 to 1.365

Exhaust Length Stem diameter:

4.6878

Intake

Exhaust Stem to guide clearance: Intake

Exhaust Stem to guide clearance wear Valve face angle:

limit

to

in

4.7028

0.372 toO.373 0.371 to 0.372

in

0.001 to 0.003

in

0.004

in

0.002

to

0.01 7

in

in

in

45° 43°

Intake

Exhaust Valve lift:

0.406 0.41 4

Intake

Exhaust Valve lash:

0.010 0.020

Intake

Exhaust

Valve springs Type and number

in

in

in (hot) in (hot)

Single, 12

:.. Free length Spring installed height (spring seat to retainer)

1.92

in

1.625to 1.688

in

Valve timing Intake

16°BTDC 48°ATDC 54°BBDC 10°ATDC

opens

Intake closes

Exhaust opens Exhaust closes Valve overlap

26°

Cylinder head Cast iron

Material Intake valve seat width

Exhaust valve seat width Intake and exhaust seat angles

0.070 0.040 45°

to to

0.090 0.060

in

in

Cylinder block Material

Cast iron

Bore out-of-round (maximum) Bore taper (maximum)

0.005 in 0.010in 0.040 in 0.9050 to 0.9058 0.4865 to 0.4880 0.0007 to 0.002 7

Maximum

re-bore (oversize

limit)

Tappet bore diameter Distributor lower driveshaft bush diameter (after reaming) Distributor shaft to

bush clearance

in in in

Lubrication

Pump type Pump cover thickness

Rotor, camshaft driven

0.0015inmin 0.649 in max 2.469 in max 0.649 in max

Outer rotor thickness Outer rotor diameter Inner rotor thickness

Clearance over rotors: outer inner

Outer rotor clearance Tip clearance

between

pressure Oil capacity (with

rotors

Oil

new filter)

0.004 in min 0.004 in min 0.014 in min 0.010 in min 30 to 70 lbf/in 2 at 2000 rev/min 6 US qt (5 Imp qt/5.7 litres)

Chapter

18 capacity (without Lubricant type

Oil

1

Engine 5 US qt (4| Imp qt/4.8 litres) Multigrade, API classification

new filter)

SE/CC

8-cylinder engine (3 J 8/360)

Capacity

318cuin

360cuin

Bore

3.91

in

4.00

in

Stroke

3.31

in

3.58

in

Firing order

See Chapter 4 Specifications

Idle

speed

See Chapter 3 Specifications

Compression ratio

8.4:1

8.5:1

Minimum cylinder compression Warm engine, plugs removed, throttle wide open

Maximum variation between cylinders

1

00

lbf/in

2

1

00 lbf/in 2

40 lbf/in 2

40 lbf/in 2

3.910to3.912in

4.000

to

0.005

0.005

in

Cylinder block Cylinder bore (standard) Cylinder bore out-of-round reconditioning)

(maximum allowable

Cylinder bore taper reconditioning)

Pistons Type material Land clearance (diametrical) top of

at

in

oversize)

Ring groove depth No. 1

0.001

in

Piston pins Type Diameter

thumb push @ 70°F)

rod

0.040 in 0.9051 to 0.9059 in 0.0005 to 0.01 4 in 0.0007 to 0.002 7 in

Aluminum

Aluminum

alloy, tin

coated

0.0005 to 0.00 15 592 gm

alloy, tin

0.020to 0.026 in 0.0005 to 0.001 5

in in

coated

in

584gm 3.19in

in

0.210in 0.2 10 in

in

in

0.1

in

in

oversize

99

in

Standard and 0.020

Press-fit

Press-fit

0.9841 to 0.9843 in 2.990 to 3.000 in 0.0002 5 to 0.0007 5

None

None

0.0007

to

0.00 14

in

in

0.0007

to

0.001 4

and

in

Standard, 0.003

0.008

oversize

in

in

in

and

oversize

Piston rings Compression Oil

3 2

3 2

1

Oil ring

type

1

3-piece, steel

3-piece, steel

rail,

chrome-face

rail.

chrome-face

Ring width

Compression Oil (steel rails)

0.0770 0.0252

to

0.0780

in

max

in

0.0770 0.0252

to

0.0780

in

max

in

Ring gap

Compression Oil (steel rails)

0.010 to 0.020 in 0.015to0.055in

0.010to0.020in 0.01 5 to 0.055 in

Ring side clearance

Compression

0.001 5 to 0.0030

Oil (steel rails)

0.0002

to

0.005

in

in

0.00 15 to 0.0030 in 0.0002 to 0.005 in

Service rings Ring gap

Compression Oil (steel rails)

0.010 to 0.020 in 0.010to0.062in

0.010

0.020

in

0.01 5 to 0.062

in

to

oversize

in

(Interference)

Standard, 0.003

0.008

Number of rings per piston

in

0.9841 to 0.9843 in 2.990 to 3.000 in 0.0000 to 0.0005 in

(Interference)

Pins for service

in

0.040 in 0.9051 to 0.9059 in 0.0005 to 0.0 14 in 0.0007 to 0.0027 in

Standard and 0.020

Pistons for service

in

O.OIOin

0.001

0.205 0.205 0.1 94

No.2 No.3

piston (light

O.OIOin

3.47

Piston length (overall)

in

in

0.01 9 to 0.024

skirt

Weight (standard, through 0.040

Length Clearance Endplay Clearance

in

before

Reconditioning working limits (for taper and out-of-round) Maximum allowable oversize (cylinder bores) Tappet bore diameter Distributor lower drive shaft bushing (press fit in block) Shaft to bushing clearance

Clearance

4.002

(maximum allowable before

Chapter

1

Engine

19

Ring side clearance

Compression

0.001 5 to 0.004

in

0.001 5 to 0.004

in

Oil (steel rails)

0.0002

in

0.0002

in

to

0.005

to

0.005

Connecting rods Length (center to center) (less bearing shells) Side clearance (two rods) Piston pin bore diameter

Weight

6.121

6.121

in

726 gm 0.006

in

758gm 4

in

0.006

1.037 to 1.039

in

0.9829to0.9834in

to 0.01

to 0.01

4

in

Connecting rod bushings None

Type

None

Connecting rod bearings Diameter and width Clearance desired Maximum allowable Bearings for service

0.0005 0.0025

to

0.002 5

in

in

0.0005 0.0025

to

0.002 5

in

in

Standard, 0.001, 0.002. 0.01 0.0.01 2 in

Standard, 0.001.0.002, 0.01 0,0.01 2 in

0.002 to 0.007 in 0.010 in 0.0005 to 0.0020 0.0025 in

0.002 to 0.009 in 0.010in 0.0005 to 0.0020

Crankshaft Endplay

Maximum

allowable Diametrical clearance desired Diametrical clearance allowed

in

0.0025

in

in

Main bearing journals Diameter

2.4995

Maximum

0.001 in 0.001,0.002,0.003,

allowable out-of-round and/or taper Bearings for service available in standard and the following undersizes

to

2.5005

in

0.010,0.012in

2.8095to2.8105in 0.001 in 0.001,0.002,0.003, 0.010,0.012in

Connecting rod journals Diameter

Maximum

allowable out-of-round and/or taper

2.124to2.15in

2.124to2.125in

0.001

0.001

in

in

Camshaft Chain

Drive

Chain

Number of bearings

5

Diametrical clearance Maximum allowable before reconditioning Thrust taken by

0.001 to 0.003

Endplay

Maximum

allowable

0.005

5

0.001 to 0.003

in

0.005

in

Thrust plate

Thrust plate

0.002 to 0.010 0.010 in

in

in

0.002 to 0.010 0.010in

in

in

Camshaft journals Diameter No. No. No. No. No.

1.999 in 1.983 in to 1.968 in to 1.952 in 1.5595 to 1 .561 5 1.997 1.991 1.996 1.950

1

2 3

4 5

to to

in

1.998 to 1.999 in 1.982 to 1.983 in 1.967 to 1.968 in 1.951 to 1.952 in 1.5605 to 1.561 5

in

Camshaft bearings Diameter No. No. No. No. No.

2.000 1.984 1.969

2.001 in 1.985 in to 1.970 in 1.953 to 1.954 in 1.5625to 1.5635in

1

2

3

4 5

to to

2.000

to 2.001 1.984 to 1.985 1.969 to 1.970 1.953 to 1.954

Intake closes

Exhaust opens Exhaust closes Valve overlap

Timing chain Number of links Pitch

Width

18°

10°BTDC 50°ABDC 52°BBDC 16°ATDC

68 0.375 0.625

68 0.375 0.625

in in

Tappets Type Body diameter Clearance

in

block

BTDC

54° ABDC 57° BBDC 15° ATDC 33°

26°

in

in in

1.5625to1.5635in

Valve timing Intake opens

in

Hydraulic

0.9035 to 0.9040 0.0011 to 0.0024

in in

in in

Chapter

20

1

Engine

Service tappets available

Standard,0.001 0.008, 0.030

Dry lash

0.060 to 0.2 10

,

in

in

Cylinder head 0.003

Valve seat run-out (maximum) Intake valve seat angle Seat width (finish) Exhaust valve seat angl Seat width (finish) Cylinder head gasket (compressed thickness)

in

45° 0.065 to 0.085 45° 0.040 to 0.060 0.033 in

in

in

Valve guides Type Guide bore diameter

Valves - intake Head diameter

Cast-in-head

0.374 to 0.375

1.780

(zero lash)

Valves -exhaust Head diameter

4.90 in 0.372 to0.373 0.001 to 0.003 0.01 7

(zero lash)

0.373

in

in

in

Standard, 0.005, 0.01 5, 0.030 0.4 10 in

in

in

1.600 in

1.500in

4.90 in 0.371 to 0.372 0.002 to 0.004 0.01 7

in in

in

43° Standard, 0.005, 0.01 5, 0.030 0.4 10 in

0.400 in

Valve springs Number

16 2.00

Free length

Load when compressed to 1 § in (valve closed with surge damper removed) Load when compressed to 1^ in (valve open with surge damper removed) Valve springs ID Maximum allowable out-of-plumb Valve spring installed height (spring seat to retainer) Use h in spacer to reduce spring height when over specifications.

in

45°

Length (to center of valve face) Stem diameter (standard) Stem to guide clearance Maximum allowable (by rocking method) Fangle Valves for service (oversize stem diameter) Lift

(Standard)

1.88

in

Length (to center of valve face) Stem diameter (standard) Stem to guide clearance Maximum allowable (by rocking method) Face angle Valves for service (oversize stem diameter) Lift

in

78-88

in

@ 1ft in

lb

in

101-111

lb

@lftin

170-184 lb @1&in

177-188 lb@1^in

1.010 to 1.030

1.080 to 1.030 0.080 in Iftolttin

in

Ain 1fto1+iin

in

Lubrication

Pump type Pump cover clearance over rotors Outer rotor thickness Outer rotor diameter

Rotor, camshaft driven

0.0015inmin in

in

Outer rotor clearance Tip clearance between rotors

0.004 0.004 0.01 4 0.010

Relief valve spring free length

2nto2&in

Inner rotor thickness Clearance over rotors outer inner

0.0015inmin

max in max in max

0.825 2.469 0.825

in in in

0.943 2.469 0.943

min min min min

in

in

max max max

0.004 in min 0.004 in min 0.01 4 n min 0.010 in min

30 to 80 lbf/in 2

pressure Oil capacity (with new filter) Oil capacity (without new filter) Lubricant type Oil

in

6 5

2^to2&in 2000 rpm

at

US qt (5 Imp qt/5.7 litres) US qt (4| Imp qt/4.8 litres)

Multigrade, API classification

8-cyUnder engine (400/440)

Capacity

400cuin

440cuin

Bore

4.342

in

4.320

in

Stroke

3.375

in

3.750

in

Firing order

See Chapter 4 Specifications

SE/CC

Chapter Idle

1

Engine

21

See Chapter 3 Specifications

speed

Compression ratio

...

m

...

8.2:1

8.2:1

Minimum cylinder compression 00

Warm engine, plugs removed, throttle wide open

1

Maximum variation between cylinders

40 lbf/in 2

lbf/in

2 1

00 lbf/in 2

40 lbf/in 2

Cylinder block Cylinder bore (standard)!

0.00025

in

Cylinder bore out-of-round (maximum allowable before reconditioning) Cylinder bore taper (maximum allowable before reconditioning)

Reconditioning working limits (for taper and out-of-round) Maximum allowable oversize (cylinder bore) Tappet bore diameter Distributor lower drive shaft bushing (press-fit in block) Shaft to bushing clearance

4.342 to 4.344 0.005

4.32 to 4.322

in

in

0.005

0.010

in

0.010in

0.001

in

0.001

in

in

in

0.040 in 0.9051 to 0.9059 in 0.00 15 to 0.0040 in 0.0007 to 0.0027 in

0.040 in 0.9051 to 0.9059 0.00 15 to 0.0040 0.0007 to 0.002 7

Aluminum

Aluminum

in in in

Pistons Type/material Land clearance (diametrical) Clearance at top of skirt Weight (standard through 0.040 Piston length (overall) Ring groove depth No. 1 No. 2

in

oversize)

No.3

Piston pins Type Diameter in

Interference

piston (light in

0.220 0.220 0.208

thumb push @ 70°F)

rod

Pins for service

0.027 to 0.035 in 0.0003 to 0.00 13

in

in

857. 5gm

in in

in

Standard and 0.020

Pistons for service

Length Clearance

0.027 to 0.035 in 0.0003 to 0.001 3 768.5 gm 3.530 in

in

3.650

in

0.220 0.220 0.208

in in in

Standard and 0.020

oversize

oversize

Press-fit

Press-fit

1.0935

1.0937

1.0935 in to 1.0937 in 3.545 to 3.585 in 0.00045 to 0.00075 in 0.0007 to 0.00 14 in

0.00045 to 0.0007 5 0.0007 to 0.001 4 in

Standard only

Standard only

3 2

3 2

3. 545

to

to3. 585

in

in

Piston rings

Number of rings per piston Compression Oil Oil ring

type

1

1

3-piece

3-piece

Chrome-plated

rails

Chrome-plated

rails

with stainless steel expander-spacer

with stainless steel

0.0775 to 0.0780 in 0.025 in max

0.0775 to 0.0780 0.025 in max

0.01 3 to 0.023 0.01 5 to 0.055

0.01 3 to 0.023 0.01 5 to 0.055

expander-spacer

Ring width

Compression Oil (steel rails)

in

Ring gap

Compression Oil (steel rails)

in

in

in in

Ring side clearance

Compression

0.001 5 to 0.0030

Oil (steel rails)

0.0000 to 0.005

in

in

0.00 15 to 0.0030 in 0.0000 to 0.005 in

Service rings Ring gap

Compression

0.013

0.023

in

Oil (steel rails)

0.01 5 to 0.062

in

to

0.01 3 to 0.023 0.01 5 to 0.062

in

in

Ring side clearance

Compression Oil (steel rails)

0.00 15 to 0.004 0.0000 to 0.005

in in

0.001 5 to 0.004 0.0000 to 0.005

in in

Connecting rods Length (center to center) (less bearing shells) Side clearance (two rods) Piston pin bore diameter

Weight

6.356

to

6.360

6.766 to 6.770in

in

812±4gm 0.009 to 0.01 7 in 1.0923 to 1.0928

in

846+ 4 gm 0.009 to 0.01 7 in 1.0923 to 1.0928

Connecting rod bushing Type

in

None

None

in

in

Chapter

22

Connecting rod bearings Type 2-bbl carburetor Diameter and width Clearance desired 2-bbl carburetor 4-bbl carburetor Maximum allowable Bearings for service

1

Engine

Aluminum 2.376to0.927in

Aluminum 2.376

to

0.927

0.0005

to

0.0030

in

in

0.0025

in

0.0005 0.0030

to

0.0030

in

in

Standard, 0.001,0.002. 0.003, 0.01 0,0.01 2 in Undersizes

Standard, 0.001. 0.002, 0.003. 0.01 0,0.01 2 in Undersizes

Crankshaft Endplay

Maximum

allowable Diametrical clearance desired Diametrical clearance allowed

0.002

to

0.0 10

in

0.009

0.0005 0.0025

to

Diameter

2.6245

to

Maximum

0.001

0.002 to 0.009 in 0.0 10 in 0.0005 to 0.002 in

in

0.002

in

0.0025

in

in

Main bearing journals allowable out-of-round and/or taper Bearings for service available in standard and the following undersizes

2.6255

2.7495to2.7505in

in

0.001

in

in

0.001,0.002.0.003.

0.001,0.002,0.003. 0.010,0.012in

0.01 0,0.01 2

in

Connecting rod journals Diameter

Maximum

allowable out-of-round and/or taper

2.375to2.376in

2.375to2.376in

0.001

in

0.001

Chain 5 0.001 to 0.003

Chain

in

Camshaft Drive

Number Diametrical clearance Maximum allowable before reconditioning

Thrust taken by

0.005

5

0.001 to 0.003

in

0.005

in

in

in

Cylinder block

Cylinder block

Camshaft journals Diameter No. No. No. No. No.

1

2 3

4 5

1.998 to 1.999 1.982 to 1.983 1.967 to 1.968 1.951 to 1.952 1.748 to 1.749

in

in

1.998 to 1.999 1.982 to 1.983 1.967 to 1.968 1.951 to 1.952 1.748 to 1.749

2.000 to 2.001

in

2.000 to 2.001

in

1.984 to 1.969 to 1.953 to 1.750 to

1.985 1.970 1.954

in

1.985 1.970 1.954

in

1.751

in

1.984 to 1.969 to 1.953 to 1.750to

1.751

in

in in in

in

in in in in

Camshaft bearings Diameter No. No. No. No. No.

1

2

3

4 5

in

in

Valve timing Intake

opens

Intake closes

Exhaust opens Exhaust closes Valve overlap

Timing chain Number of links Pitch

Width

18°BTDC 62°ABDC 68°BBDC 20°ATDC 38°

50 0.50 0.75

in in

Tappets Type Body diameter Clearance in block Service tappets available Clearance between valve stem and rocker arm pad (dry lash)

Hydraulic

0.9035 toO.9040 0.0011 to 0.0024

Standard, 0.001 0.008, 0.030 to 0.2 10 in ,

0.060

Cylinder head Valve seat run-out (maximum) Intake valve seat angle Seat width (finish) Exhaust valve seat angle Seat width (finish)

in

in

0.003

in

45° 0.060 to 0.085 45° 0.040 to 0.060

in

in

in

in in

Chapter

1

Engine

23 0.022

Cylinder head gasket (compressed thickness)

in

Valve guides Cast in head 0.374 to0.375

Type Guide bore diameter (standard)

Valves-intake Head diameter

2.08 4.87

Length to (center of valve face) Stem diameter Stem to guide clearance Maximum allowable by rocking method

in in

0.3723 0.0011 0.01 7

to

to

0.3730 0.0028

in in

in

45°

Face angle Valve for service (oversize stems diameter) Lift

in

Standard, 0.005. 0.01

0.434

(zero lash)

5,

0.030

in

5,

0.030

in

in

Valves-exhaust 1.74in 4.87 in

Head diameter Length to (center of valve face) Stem diameter

0.3713to0.3720in 0.3723 to0.3730 in

Hot end Cold end Stem to guide clearance Hot end Cold end Maximum allowable by rocking method Face angle Valve for service (oversize stem diameter) Lift

0.0021 to0.0C38in 0.0011 to 0.0028 in 0.01 7

in

45° Standard, 0.005, 0.01

0.430

(zero lash)

Valve springs Number

in

16 2.58in

Free length

Load when compressed to: Valve closed (pounds) Valve open (pounds) Valve spring ID Maximum allowable out-of-plumb Valve spring installed height (spring seat to retainer) Use tb in spacer to reduce spring height when over specifications.

121-129 @1|fin 192-208 @l£in 1.01 to 1.03

0.060

in

in

1gto1gin

Lubrication Rotor, camshaft driven

Pump type pump cover thickness

0.0015inmin 0.943 in max

Oil

Outer rotor thickness Outer rotor diameter Inner rotor thickness Clearance over rotors

2.469 0.943

inner

Outer rotor clearance

between

in

0.004 in 0.004 in 0.014in 0.010 in 2|in

outer

Tip clearance

in

rotors

Relief valve spring free length

max max min min min min

2 lbf/in at 2000 rpm US qt (5 Imp qt/5.7 litres) US qt (4| Imp qt/4.8 litres)

30 to 80

pressure capacity (with new filter) Oil capacity (without new filter) Lubricant type Oil

6 5

Oil

Multigrade, API classification

SE/CC

Torque wrench settings

Ibfft

Nm

225 cu in engine Alternator adjusting strap bolt Alternator adjusting strap mounting bolt Alternator bracket bolt

17

23

30

41

17

23

Alternator mounting pivot nut

30 30 50

41 41

Camshaft lockbolt Carburetor to manifold nut Chain case cover bolt Clutch housing bolt

fin

Ain Connecting rod nut Crankshaft rear bearing seal retainer Cylinder head bolt

17 17

30 50 45 30 70

68 23 23 41

68 61 41

95

Chapter

24 Engine front mount insulator to frame nut Engine front mount insulatorto engine nut Engine front mount insulator to bracket bolt Engine rear mount insulatorto crossmember nut Engine rear mount insulator to extension Engine rear mount crossmember to frame nut Exhaust pipe flange nut Exhaust pipe support bolt Fan blade attaching bolts Flex plate to converter Flex plate to crankshaft Flywheel to crankshaft

17

102 102 68 68 68 41

48 68 23

22

Intake to exhaust manifold bolt

Main bearing cap bolt Oil pan drain plug Oil pan screw

pump attaching bolt

Oil filter

Engine 75 75 50 50 50 30 35 50

Fuel pump attaching bolt Intake to exhaust manifold stud

Oil

1

55 55

75 75

30 30 20 85 20

41 41

17 17

27 116 27 23 23

25

34

50 30

41

attaching stud

Rocker shaft bracket bolt Sparkplug Starter mounting bolt Water pump to housing bolt

68

3 1 8/360 cu in engine Alternator adjusting strap bolt Alternator adjusting strap mounting bolt Alternator bracket bolt

17

23

Alternator mounting pivot nut Camshaft sprocket lockbolt

30 30 30 50

41 41 41

Camshaft thrust plate

17.5

Chain case cover bolt Clutch housing bolt

35

l' n

30 50 45 100 95

1*'"

Connecting rod nut Crankshaft bolt (vibration damper) Cylinder head bolt Distributor

clamp

17

bolt

Engine front mount insulator to frame nut Engine front mount insulator to engine nut Engine rear mount insulator to crossmember nut Engine rear mount insulator to extension Engine rear mount crossmember to frame nut Exhaust manifold screw Exhaust manifold nut Exhaust pipe flange nut Fan blade attaching bolts Flexplate to converter Flywheel to crankshaft

pump attaching bolt Intake manifold bolt Main bearing cap bolt Oil

pan drain plug pan screw

Oil

pump attaching

Oil

20 33 23 30 75 75

Sparkplug Starter mounting bolt Vibration damper screw to crankshaft to housing bolt

102

41

17

54 116 27 23

30 45

41 61

20

attaching stud Rocker shaft bracket bolt

Water pump

15

85

Oil filter

136 130 23 102

24

40

bolt

68 61

68 68 102 27

22 55 55 30

Fuel

41

75 75 50 50 75 20

17

Flexplate to crankshaft

68 24 48

17

23

30 50 100 30

41

68 136 41

400/440 cu in engine Alternator adjusting strap bolt Alternator adjusting strap mounting bolt Alternator bracket bolt Alternator mounting pivot bolt

Camshaft lockbolt Carburetor to manifold Chain case cover bolt Clutch housing bolt i' n A' n

rrut

—

17

23

30 30 30 50 20

41 41 41

68 23

17

30 50

41

68

Chapter

1

Engine 45 135 25 70

Connecting rod nut Crankshaft bolt (vibration damper) Crankshaft rear bearing seal retainer Cylinder head bolt Distributor

clamp

184 34 95 23 102 102 68 68

75 75 50 50

30 24

41

33 23

17

pump attaching bolt

Floor jets

Intake manifold bolt

Main bearing cap bolt Oil pan drain plug Oil pan screw Oil

61

17

bolt

Engine front mount insulator to frame nut Engine front mount insulator to engine nut Engine rear mount crossmember to frame Engine rear mount insulator to extension Exhaust manifold stud nut Exhaust pipe flange nut Fan blade attaching bolts Flexplate to converter Flexplate to crankshaft Flywheel to crankshaft Fuel

25

pump attaching bolt

22 55 55

30

30 25

41

45 85 20 22 30

61

75 75

34 116 27 30 41

adaptor Rocker shaft bracket bolt Sparkplug

20 25 30

27 34

mounting bolt Temperature gauge sending

50 35 17

68 48 23

135 30

41

Oil filter

Starter

Vibration Vibration

unit

damper pulley bolt damper to crankshaft bolt

Water pump to housing

bolt

41

184

PARTA — 6-CYLINDER ENGINE 1

3

General description

overhead valve type, and order to permit a lower line and to give more space within the engine compartment for the intake manifold. The crankshaft is fully counterbalanced and is supported in four main bearings. No. 3 main bearing incorporates thrust flanges to control endplay. Pre-1977 models use a forged steel crankshaft, but 1977 models use either the forged steel type or a new cast iron type. Bearings and associated parts for the two types are not interchangeable. A cast iron crankshaft can be identified by the letter E on the

The engine

is

is

of the six-cylinder, in-line,

inclined to the right

in

engine identification pad. The camshaft is driven by a chain from a crankshaft sprocket. The camshaft operates the rocker shaft-mounted rocker arms through pushrods which engage at their lower ends in hollow valve lifters. The distributor and the oil pump are driven from a gear on the camshaft, while the fuel pump is actuated by an eccentric on the forward section of the camshaft. The pistons are of light alloy, having two compression and one oil control ring. in

1

pin

is

oil filter is

in

the vehicle

The following operations are possible without removing the engine

Release the cover latches then move the front seats fully rearward. the front cover upward and draw the whole assembly rearward to clear the instrument panel. 4 With the cover removed, take care not to damage the cover insulation and seal or engine fumes may enter the vehicle. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 5 2 3

Tilt

4

Engine- removal and

10) 7

c)

d) e) f)

g) h)

Removal and installation of the rocker shaft and arms Removal and installation of the cylinder head Removal and installation of the timing cover and chain Removal and installation of the camshaft Removal and installation of the oil pan Removal and installation of the oil pump Removal and installation of the crankshaft main bearings Removal and installation of timing cover and rear main ings

j)

oil

installation

Note: The engine is extremely heavy, and several special items such as brackets, supports, jacks etc. will be needed; consideration should be given to this before any attempt is made to remove the engine. On air conditioned models, it's essential that the system is depressurized by a suitably qualified person before the engine is removed.

6

from the vehicle:

b)

the three retainer screws and brackets from around the

Disconnect the battery. 1 Drain the cooling system (Chapter 2). 2 Remove the drain plug from the oil pan and drain the oil into a 3 container of adequate size. Remove the engine cover (Section 3). 4 Remove the air cleaner (Chapter 3) and starter motor (Chapter 5

of the cartridge, disposable type.

Major operations possible with the engine

a)

Remove

base.

a floating-fit in the piston, but a press-fit

the connecting rod end.

The

2

The piston

1

Engine cover - removal and installation

seals

Removal and installation

of engine

mounts

Remove the front bumper, grille and support brace (Chapter 12). Remove the radiator (Chapter 2). On models with air conditioning, remove the compressor; seal all

8 pipes and unions to prevent dirt and moisture from entering. 9 As applicable, detach the power steering pump (Chapter 1 1 ), and air pump complete with hoses attached (Chapter 3). Lay these to one side.

bear-

10 Disconnect the throttle linkage, heater and vacuum hoses, and all the electrical connections to the ignition coil, alternator, etc. Make a careful note of these connections to simplify installation. Remove the alternator (Chapter 1 0). 1 1 Remove the fan blades, pulley and drive belts (Chapter 2). 1 2

Chapter 3 Remove the heater blower motor (Chapter 12). 4 Disconnect the fuel pump line and plug it to prevent fuel spillage. 15 Remove the oil dipstick tube. Remove the distributor (Chapter 4). 1 6 Using a support such as the one shown in Fig. 1 .2, made from 1 ^ 1 7 in or large galvanized pipe, raise the engine slightly. 18 Raise the vehicle as necessary and remove the propeller shaft 1

1

(Chapter 7). 19 Remove the rear engine support and the transmission (Chapter 6). 20 Remove the clutch assembly (Chapter 5) and the flywheel, or the driveplate. Take care with the flywheel as it's very heavy. 21 Raise the rear of the engine about two inches, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 22 Remove the retaining bolts and take off the oil pan. Use a knife blade or light blows from a plastic hammer to free it if it's sticking to the crankcase. Turn the crankshaft if necessary to allow the counterweights and crankpins to clear the oil pan.

23 Remove the 24 Make-up a

intake and exhaust manifold

assembly (Chapter 3). and 5th

Engine

1

To strip the engine it's best to work from the top down. If a dismantling stand isn't available, the engine should be laid on the bench or suitable wood-blocks, with the oil filter uppermost. Wherever possible, re-install nuts, bolts and washers finger-tight after removal. This helps avoid later loss and muddle. If they cannot be installed, then lay them out in such a fashion that it's clear from where they came.

6

Ancillary

1

If

26 Take the engine weight on the crane, and remove the support

Check the tension of all

7

Rocker components - removal

2 3

isn't

for a qualified

oil

be

oil filter.

screen and pipe assembly.

Remove

8

Cylinder head - removal

1

If

the engine on a dismantling stand, but available, then stand the engine on a strong bench which

hook or

nail.

the engine

is in

position

in

the vehicle:

2 Remove the valve cover, rocker shaft and arms, as described in preceding Section. Extract the pushrods and keep them in their original sequence for 3 installation. if

is

one at a

comfortable working height. During the dismantling process the greatest care should be taken to keep the exposed parts free from dirt. As an aid to achieving this, it's a sound idea to thoroughly clean down the outside of the engine, removing all traces of oil and congealed dirt. Use kerosene or a water soluble grease solvent. The latter compound will make the job much easier, as, after the solvent has been applied and allowed to stand for a time, a vigorous jet of water will wash off the solvent and all the grease and filth. If the dirt is thick and deeply embedded, work the solvent into it with a wire brush. Finally wipe down the exterior of the engine with a rag and only then, when it's quite clean, should the dismantling process begin. As the engine is stripped, clean each part in a bath of kerosene or gasoline. Never immerse parts which have internal oilways in kerosene, (such as the crankshaft), but wipe them carefully with a gasoline soaked rag. Probe the oilways with a length of wire and if an air line is available, blow the oilways through to clean them. Re-use of old engine gaskets is false economy and can give rise to oil and water leaks, if nothing worse. To avoid the possibility of trouble after the engine has been reassembled, always use new gaskets throughout. Don't throw the old gaskets away as it sometimes occurs that an immediate replacement cannot be found and the old gasket is then very useful as a template. Hang up the old gaskets as they are a suitable

the rocker arm/shaft assembly from the cylinder head.

Drain the cooling system Remove the air cleaner Disconnect the accelerator linkage Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the distributor and the carburetor Disconnect the leads from the spark plugs Disconnect the heater hose and by-pass hose clamp Disconnect the lead from the coo/ant temperature sender unit Disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust manifold Where applicable, disconnect the diverter valve vacuum line, and remove the air tube assembly Remove manifolds complete with carburetor

drivebelts (Chapter 2)

mount

Disconnect the hoses from the valve cover. Unbolt and remove the valve cover and its gasket. Unscrew and remove the bolts which secure the rocker shaft

4

person

Engine dismantling -general

removed on

first

pillars.

to recharge the air conditioning system, where applicable f) Check the ignition timing (Chapter 4) and carburetor settings (Chapter 3) g) After the initial engine start-up, check for coolant, oil and fuel leaks h) If the engine has been dismantled, refer to Section 40

best to

the water pump (Chapter 2). Using a suitable strap wrench, remove the

Unscrew the

tion

It's

should

Remove

6

torque b) Take care that all hoses and cables are connected to the correct items c) Refill the oil pan, cooling system and transmission on comple-

5

it

components.

the fuel pump (Chapter 3). 5 the emission control equipment, taking a careful note of the connections.

1

Use new gaskets and seals when installing the oil pan, and tighten the bolts progressively and evenly to the specified

Arrange

to be extensively dismantled, then

is

external

Remove Remove

tool

from the rear of the engine. 27 Remove the engine front mounts and insulators (Section 41 ), then carefully draw the engine out of the vehicle. Raise the crane if necessary, but keep the crane arm more-or-less horizontal. 28 Installation of the engine is basically the reverse of the removal procedure, but the following points should be noted:

e)

all

4

possible.

d)

the engine

stripped of

2 3

components - removal

suitable bracket to attach to the 3rd, 4th

manifold lower studs on the cylinder head (Fig. 1 .4). 25 Attach the hooks of a suitable shop hydraulic crane to the bracket and to an engine bracket front bolt. Keep the chains as short as

a)

27

4

Unscrew the

cylinder

head

bolts.

Unscrew each

bolt

one

half turn

diagonal sequence from the center outwards. Lift the cylinder head from the cylinder block. If it's stuck tight, 5 don't insert a lever in the gasket joint in an attempt to release it, but give it several sharp blows in a sideways direction using a hammer and at a time,

working

a block of

hardwood as an

9

in

insulator.

Cylinder head - dismantling

1 With the cylinder head removed from the engine, the valves can be removed. Keep them in their original order when removing them. This can be assured by having a piece of card with holes punched in it and

numbered

1

to 12.

compressor, compress each valve spring in turn and extract the lock, the valve spring retainer, the valve spring and the valve stem oil seal. 2

Using

a suitable

10 Timing cover and chain - removal and chain inspection 1

If

the engine

is in

position

in

the vehicle:

Drain the cooling system (Chapter 2)

Remove 2

the radiator

Unscrew the

and fan assembly (Chapter 2)

retaining

bolt

and withdraw the pulley/damper

Chapter

28

Engine

1

assembly from the front end of the crankshaft.

LOCKS

ROTATOR SPRING

Partly unscrew the oil pan bolts at its forward edge, then remove 3 the timing cover bolts. Withdraw the timing cover and gasket. 4 Withdraw the oil slinger from the end of the crankshaft (where

At this stage it's recommended that the timing chain is checked To do this, apply a socket and torque wrench to the camshaft sprocket bolt and apply force in the normal direction of crankshaft rotation (30 Ibf ft if cylinder head still in position complete with rocker gear, or 1 5 Ibf ft if the cylinder head has been removed). Don't allow the crankshaft to rotate: if necessary, jam the crankshaft sprocket. Using a rule or other suitable scale, apply a similar force in the reverse direction and note the amount of movement of the chain. If it exceeds ^ in, a new timing chain will be required. Unscrew the camshaft sprocket securing bolt and withdraw the 6 sprocket complete with chain. The chain can then be disengaged from 5

for wear.

EXHAUST VALVE

^T

OIL SEAL

RETAINER

^*

vA

SPRING

INTAKE VALVE

1

suitable puller will be

installed).

OIL SHIELD

Fig.

A

required for this operation (photo).

.7

the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket.

Valves and associated parts

pump - removal and

1 1

Oil

1

Remove

the

pump

oil

removed, the outer rotor

installation

cover and outer

rotor.

will fall out; don'* let

Note: As the cover is it drop, or it will be

damaged. 2 Unscrew the mounting bolts and detach the pump from the crankcase. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, with a 3 gasket being used. Lubricate the parts before installing.

12 Valve 1

If

Remove Remove Remove Remove Remove 2

and camshaft - removal

lifters

the engine

new

is in

the vehicle:

the fuel pump (Chapter 3) the cylinder head (Section 8) the distributor (Chapter 4) the timing gear (Section 10} the

oil

pump

(Section

1

1)

lifters from their location on top of the camshaft order so that tney can be installed in their original

Extract the valve

lobes.

Keep them

in

positions.

3

Withdraw the camshaft from the

care not to

damage

front of the crankcase, taking the camshaft bearings as the lobes pass through

them.

Fig.

1

.8

Checking timing chain wear

CAMSHAFT

Fig.

19 Camshaft remova 10.2

Removing crankshaft

pulley

Chapter

13 Oil pan - removal and installation (engine

in

through 22 of Section

4.

Refer to paragraphs

1

2

Installation

make

sure that

is it's

1

the vehicle)

1

first.

29

5 Crankshaft and main bearings - removal

Check that the main bearing caps are numbered 1 to 4 and on adjacent points on the crankcase. If not, dot punch them. Unscrew and remove the main bearing cap bolts and lift away the 2 caps complete with bearing shells. If the bearing shells are to be reused, keep them with their respective caps. Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and extract the bearing 3 shells, again identifying them in respect of location if they're to be used 1

basically the reverse of the removal procedure, but

clean and dry

Engine

1

Refer to Section 4, paragraph

28

(a).

14 Pistons and connecting rods - removal and dismantling

similarly

again.

Examine the tops

1

of the cylinder bores for a

wear

ridge.

If

one can

be felt, it will have to be removed by careful scraping, otherwise the top piston ring will probably shatter when the piston is removed from the cylinder block. Check that the connecting rods and their caps are 2

numbered

1

to

adjacent points. If they're not, dot punch them. Note that the oil hole in the connecting rod is towards the right-hand side of the engine where a forged crankshaft is used, or towards the front of the engine where a cast iron crankshaft is used (See Section 1 ). Turn the crankshaft so that No. 1 connecting rod is at the lowest 3 point of its travel, unbolt the connecting rod bearing caD and push the connecting rod/piston up and out of the cylinder block. Take care that the connecting rod does not scratch the cylinder bore. If the bearing shells are to be used again, keep them attached to their respective rod

6

at

or cap.

The main bearing shells can be renewed with the engine still in the if the oil pan is first removed and one main bearing cap removed at a time. If a cotter pin is then inserted in the crankshaft oil hole and the crankshaft is rotated clockwise, the crankcase half shell will be driven round by the head of the cotter pin and it can be removed. Install the new shell using the same method, but rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise. Renewal of the shell bearings with the engine installed isn't recommended as it's not possible to examine the crankshaft journal properly and there's a possibility of dirt being 4

vehicle

introduced with the

your dealer.

shell.

16 Crankcase ventilation system

On

all

system

is

1

Repeat the operations on the remaining assemblies. The piston rings should be removed over the top of the piston. 5 Insert two or three old feeler blades behind the top ring, spacing them at equidistant points, and remove the ring with a twisting motion. Repeat the operations on the remaining rings. 6 The piston pin, although a push-fit in the piston, can only be removed from the connecting rod by using a press or suitable pressure screw device. Where facilities are not available, this is a job best left to

4

new

models a fully closed, positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) used, where air drawn in from the air cleaner is routed

through a crankcase inlet air cleaner before going into the engine. After circulating through the engine, the air is drawn out through 2

PCV valve and into the combustion chamber where it's burned and mixed with the exhaust gases. The PCV valve regulates the flow through the engine, and it's 3 therefore important to keep it clean. 4 Similarly, for the system to operate efficiently, all hoses must be kept clear and in good condition. the

INDENT-ASSEMBLY

INDENT — ASSEMBLY TOWARDS FRONT OF ENGINE

TOWARDS FRONT OF ENGINE

OIL HOLE-ASSEMBLE TOWARDS (RIGHT SIDE)

—

OF ENGINE

Fig.

1.10 Connecting rod and piston -forged crankshaft

OIL HOLE ASSEMBLE TOWARDS FRONT OF ENGINE

Fig. 1.11

Connecting rod and piston - cast

iron crankshaft

Chapter

30

VENTILATOR VALVE HOSE

AIR CLEANER

VENTILATOR VALVE

1

Engine

CRANKCASE

CRANKCASE

INLET AIR

INLET AIR

CLEANER HOSE

CLEANER HOSE

CRANKCASE

AIR CLEANER

VENTILATOR

VALVE HOSE

INLET AIR

CLEANER INTAKE

MANIFOLD

VENTILATOR

VALVE

VENTILATOR VALVE

SIX CYLINDER

Fig.

1

V-8 ENGINES

ENGINES

1

.12 Typical crankcase ventilation

systems

19.2 Connecting rod bearing

8.5 Checking crankshaft endplay

With the engine stripped down and all parts thoroughly cleaned, time to examine everything for wear. The items should be checked and, where necessary, renewed or renovated as described in

your local Chrysler dealer or engineering works will be able to decide how much metal to grind off and the size of new bearings shells. Full details of crankshaft regrinding tolerances and bearing 3 undersizes are given in the Specifications. 4 The main bearing clearances may be established by using a strip of Plastigage between the crankshaft journals and the main bearing/shell caps. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to a torque of 85 Ibf ft. Remove the cap and compare the flattened Plastigage strip with the index provided. The clearance should be compared with the tolerances in the

the following Sections.

Specifications.

Refer to the Routine Maintenance Section for further information

5

and cleaning

1

7

it's

intervals.

Examination and renovation - general

now

5

Temporarily

install

the crankshaft to the crankcase having installed

the upper halves of the shell main bearings 1

8 Crankshaft and main bearings - examination and renovation

Examine the crankpin and main journal surfaces for signs of 1 scoring or scratches. Check the ovality of the crankpins at different positions with a micrometer. If more than specified out-of-round, the crankpin will have to be reground. It will also have to be reground if there are any scores or scratches present. Also check the journals in the 2

same If it's

fashion.

necessary to regrind the crankshaft and

install

new

bearings,

in their

locations. Install

the No. 3 main bearing cap only, complete with shell bearing and torque tighten the securing bolts to 85 Ibf ft. Using a feeler gauge, check the endplay by pushing and pulling the crankshaft. Where the

endfloat

is

outside the specified tolerance, the No. 3 bearing shells will

have to be renewed (photo). Finally check the pilot bushing 6

in

the center of the crankshaft rear

it by tapping a thread into it and then screw in a bolt. Drive in the new bushing which should have multi-purpose grease liberally applied to its interior.

flange.

If

it's

worn

or

damaged,

extract

Chapter

1

Engine

31

PISTON RING FEELER

GAGE

RING GROOVE

Fig.

21.1 Piston, rings and piston pin details

1.13 Checking piston side clearance

19 Connecting rods and bearings - examination and renovation Connnecting rod bearing failure is indicated by a knocking from 1 within the crankcase and a slight drop in oil pressure. Examine the bearing surfaces for pitting and scoring. Renew the 2 shells in accordance with the sizes given in the Specifications. Where the crankshaft has been reground, the correct undersize shell bearings will be supplied by the repairer (photo). Should there be any suspicion that a connecting rod is bent or 3 twisted, or the piston pin bush no longer provides an interference fit for the piston pin, then the complete connecting rod assembly should be

exchanged

4

of the connecting rod bearing clearances

may be

main bearings the previous Section, but tighten the securing nuts on the cap bolts

carried out in

for a reconditioned one.

Measurement in

a similar

to a torque setting of

manner

45

Ibf

to that described for the

ft.

20 Cylinder bores - examination and renovation 1 The cylinder bores must be examined for taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by carefully examining the top of the cylinder bores. If they're at all worn, a very slight ridge will be found on the thrust side. This marks the top of the piston ring travel. The owner will have a good indication of the bore wear prior to dismantling the engine, or removing the cylinder head. Excessive oil consumption accompanied by blue smoke from the exhaust is a sure sign of worn cylinder bores and piston rings. Measure the bore diameter just under the ridge with a micrometer, 2 and compare it with the diameter at the bottom of the bore, which is

not subject to wear.

more than

0010

If

the difference between the

two measurements

then it will be necessary to install special pistons and rings, or to have the cylinders rebored and fit oversize is

in

pistons.

Oversize pistons are available as listed in the Specifications. These are accurately machined to just below the indicated measurements so as to provide correct running clearances in bores bored out to the exact oversize dimensions. If the bores are slightly worn but not so badly worn as to justify 4 reboring them, then special oil control rings and pistons can be used

3

21

Pistons and piston rings - examination and renovation

the original pistons are to be re-used, carefully remove the in Section 1 4 (photo). Clean the grooves and rings free from carbon, taking care not to 2 scratch the aluminium surfaces of the pistons. If new rings are to be installed, ensure that the top compression 3 ring is stepped, to prevent it impinging on the wear ring' which will almost certainly have been formed at the top of the cylinder bore. 1

If

piston rings as described

Before installing the rings to the pistons, push each ring in turn to the part of its respective cylinder bore (use an inverted piston to do this and to keep the ring square in the bore) and measure the ring end gap. The gaps should be as listed in the Specifications Section. Now test the side clearance of the compression rings which again 5

4

down

should be as shown in the Specifications Section. Where necessary, a piston ring, which is slightly tight in its groove, 6 may be rubbed down holding it perfectly squarely on an oilstone or a sheet of fine emery cloth laid on a piece of plate glass. Excessive tightness can only be rectified by having the grooves machined out. 7 The piston pin should be a push-fit into the piston at room temperature. If it appears slack, then both the piston and piston pin should be renewed.

22 Camshaft and bearings - examination and renovation itself should show no signs of wear, but, if very on the cams is noticed, the score marks can be removed by very gently rubbing down with a very fine emery cloth. The greatest care should be taken to keep the cam profiles smooth. Examine the skew gear for wear, chipped teeth or other damage. 2 The camshaft bearings can be removed by driving them out with a 3 suitable mandrel. Extract the blanking plug from the rear of the 1

The camshaft

slight scoring

crankcase

4

When

first.

installing the

new

bearings

make

sure that the

correctly aligned with those in the bearing housings. No. 1 camshaft bearing should be installed so that 5

oil

holes are

is

recessed

it

i in from the front face of the cylinder block. Ream the bearings accordance with the diameters indicated in the Specifications. Install a new blanking plug having first applied sealant to it. 6

in

which

will restore compression and stop the engine burning oil. Several different types are available and the manufacturers' instructions concerning their fitting must be followed closely. If new pistons are being installed and the bores have not been 5 reground, it's essential to slightly roughen the hard glaze on the sides of the bores with fine glass paper so that the new piston rings will have a chance to bed-in properly.

23 Flywheel

(or driveplate)

- examination and renovation

1 The surface of the flywheel must be free from deep scoring or grooves, and not show any signs of small cracks or overheating. has If the starter ring gear on the flywheel or the torque converter 2

Chapter

32

Engine

1

damaged or worn teeth, then the ring gear should be removed and new one shrunk on. This is a job best left to your Chrysler dealer.

a

24 Timing components - examination and renovation Examination of the timing chain for wear

1

is

described

in

Section

10.

Examine the teeth

2

1

if

25 Rocker gear - examination and renovation

A-SEAT WIDTH (INTAKE 1/16 TO 3/32 INCH EXHAUST: 3/64 TO 1/16 INCH) B-FACE ANGLE (INTAKE: 45°-EXHAUST: 43°) C-SEAT ANGLE (INTAKE: 45°-EXHAUST: 45°) D-CONTACT SURFACE Fig.

and camshaft sprockets and renew them.

of the crankshaft

they're worn, or appear hooked,

Any wear

1

in

the rocker shaft or

arms

will

necessitate dismantling

and renewal of the part concerned. 2 Hardened steel spacers are located between the pairs of rocker arms and when dismantling, keep the parts in sequence so that they can be installed in their original positions. 3 Make sure that the flat on the rocker shaft is at the top and towards the front of the engine; also ensure that the rocker shaft retainers seat on the rocker shaft, and not on the projecting bushing of the rocker arm. The longer retainer should be fitted in the center posi-

.14 Valve face and seat angles

tion.

26 Valve guides - examination and renovation Test each valve

guide for wear. After a considerable mileage, oval. This can best be tested by inserting a new valve in the guide and moving it from side to side. If the tip of the valve stem deflects by more than 001 7 in, it must be assumed that the tolerance between the stem and guide is greater than the permitted maximum as listed in the Specification Section. 2 The valve guides are integral with the cylinder head and wear can only be overcome by reaming them and installing new valves which have oversize stems. 1

the valve guide bore

in its

may wear

27 Valves and valve seats - examination and renovation

30.1

Pump

30.4

Oil

Examine the heads of the valves for pitting and burning, especially 1 the heads of the exhaust valves. The valve seating should be examined at the same time. If the pitting on the valve and seat is very slight, the marks can be removed by lapping the seats and valves together with coarse, and then fine, valve lapping compound. Where the valve seats are badly pitted they will have to be re-cut 2 (See Fig. 1.14 for cutting angles). Normally, it's the valve that's too

cover removed showing rotors and sealing ring

pressure

relief

valve

3

1

.2

Timing cover

oil

sea

Chapter badly worn, and the owner can easily purchase a new set of valves and match them to the seats by valve lapping. Valve lapping is carried out as follows: Smear a trace of coarse 3 lapping compound on the seat face and apply a suction lapping tool to the valve head. With a semi-rotary motion, lap the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the compound. When a dull matt even surface finish is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, wipe off the valve and repeat the process with fine lapping lifting and turning the valve to redistribute the compound as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced, on both valve and valve seat faces, the lapping operation

compound,

is

4

completed. Scrape away

1

Engine

33

STAND-PIPE

BODY INNER

ROTOR AND

OUTER ROTOR SEAL RING

carbon from the valve head and the valve stem.

all

trace of lapping compound, taking great the ports or in the valve guides. Clean the valves and valve seats with a kerosene soaked rag, then with a clean rag, and finally, if an air line is available, blow the valves, valve guides and valve Carefully clean

care to leave

away every

none

in

Check the length of the valve springs.

springs have been

major servicing,

in

it's

If

spring they should be renewed. If the original operation for 20 000 miles or more at the time of

recommended

that they're

renewed as

PLUG

GASKET

they are less than the

new

specified length of a

^

SCREW AND LOCKWASHER

ports clean.

5

GASKET

SCREW AND LOCKWASHER Fig. 1.15 Oil pump - exploded view

a matter of

routine.

6

Always renew the valve stem

28 Pushrods and valve

lifters

oil

seals.

- examination and renovation

Wear

in these components is unusual and, if evident, can only be by renewal of the part concerned. Check the pushrods for distortion; if any are bent they should be 2 renewed. 1

rectified

29 Cylinder head - decarbonizing and examination With the cylinder head removed, use a blunt scraper to remove all of carbon deposits from the combustion spaces and ports. Scrape the cylinder head free from scale or old pieces of gasket or jointing compound. Clean the cylinder head by washing it in kerosene and take particular care to pull a piece of rag through the ports and cylinder head bolt holes. Any dirt remaining in these recesses may well drop onto the gasket or cylinder block mating surface as the cylinder head is lowered into position, and could lead to a gas leak after reassembly is complete. 2 With the cylinder head clean, test for distortion if a history of coolant leakage has been apparent. Carry out this test using a straight edge and feeler gauges or a piece of plate glass. If the surface shows distortion in excess of 000075 times the span length over which the distortion is being measured, the cylinder head must be refaced or renewed. Clean the pistons and top of the cylinder bores. If the pistons are 3 1

trace

,

OUTER ROTOR

INNER ROTOR Fig.

1.16 Measuring outer rotor clearance

the block, then it's essential that great care is taken to ensure no carbon gets into the cylinder bores as this could scratch the cylinder walls, or cause damage to the piston and rings. To ensure this does not happen, first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are still

in

that

top of their bores. Stuff rags into the other four bores or seal with paper and masking tape to prevent particles of carbon entering the cooling system and damaging the water pump. 4 Rotate the crankshaft and repeat the carbon removal operations on the remaining pistons and cylinder bores. 5 Thoroughly clean all particles of carbon from the bores and then inject a little light oil round the edges of the pistons to lubricate the at the

them

off

INNER ROTOR

piston rings.

30 1

2 3

4

Oil

pump-

Remove Remove

the

servicing

pump

cover and sealing rings (photo).

the drive gear using a suitable extractor.

Withdraw the rotor and shaft, and lift out the outer rotor. Unscrew and remove the oil pressure relief valve plug, and

the spring and plunger (photo). 5 Check all components for

between the

extract

wear and measure the clearance

rotors in the following way.

Fig.

1.17 Measuring clearance between rotors

1

Chapter

34

Engine

1

Check the clearance between the outer rotor and the pump body. 6 This should not be more than the figure given in the Specifications when measured with a feeler blade. 7 Measure the clearance between the high points of the inner and outer rotors. This should not exceed the figure given in the Specifica-

SCREW DRIVER

tions.

Place a straight edge across the top of the oil pump body and, using a feeler gauge check the end clearance between the straight edge and the rotors. This should not exceed 0004 in. Excessive wear discovered during the preceding tests can only be 9 overcome by renewing the parts concerned. 10 While the oil pressure relief valve is dismantled, check the plunger for scoring and measure the spring free length. This should be 2\ in. Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure, but make 1 1 sure that all parts are generously lubricated with engine oil.

8

SEALER

SEALER

SEAL

31

RETAINER Fig.

1.18 Crankshaft rear

oil

seal

Engine

oil

seals - renewal with engine dismantled

1 At the time of major engine repair, always renew the timing cover The timing cover oil seal is best and crankshaft rear oil seals. 2 drawn out from the inside of the cover. When installing the new seal, make sure that it is driven fully home with its neoprene face against

the cover (photo).

3

The crankshaft

rear

oil

seal

is in

two

sections.

One

half section is

crankcase groove, while the other is installed in the oil seal retainer cap groove. Both sections of seal should be fitted fully into their grooves, then the projecting ends of the seals cut off flush installed in the

(photo).

4

Install the

new

flexible sealing strips to the oil seal retainer.

These

are supplied with the gasket set (photo).

32 Engine 1

oil

seals

The timing cover and crankshaft

the engine installed

3

1

3a Crankshaft rear

oil

- renewal with engine

in

rear

oil

ins f alled

seals can be

renewed with

the vehicle.

To renew the timing cover oil seal, remove the vibration damper 2 (Section 1 0, paragraphs 1 and 2). Using a small sharp pointed tool, carefully pry out the oil seal 3 taking care not to damage the sealing faces. Lubricate a new seal with engine oil and carefully press it into 4 place so that the outer face is fljsh with the timing cover. Install the pulley, radiator and fan, and top up the cooling system 5 (Chapter 2). To renew the crankshaft rear oil seal, split-rubber seal-halves 6 should be used in place of the rope-type seals used during original assembly. Remove the oil pan (Section 1 3). 7 Remove the rear oil seal retainer and rear main bearing cap. 8 Carefully pry out the lower rope seal using a small screwdriver. 9 10 Screw a long woodscrew or sheet-metal screw into the end of the upper seal, then pull on the screw to pull the seal out while the crankshaft is being turned by an assistant. 1 Wipe the crankshaft surface clean and apply a little engine oil. 12 Lubricate a new seal then insert it (paint stripe to the rear), and turn the crankshaft so that it moves into place. 13 Install the other half of the seal into the lower seal retainer, and install the bearing cap. 1 4 Install the side seals in the seal retainer, and apply a little grease to

sea

ease assembly into the block. Install the lower seal retainer without using any sealants on the lip, 1 5 but with a little grease applied to the bottom of the seal retainer on both sides. 16 Install the oil pan (Section 13), and add the correct type and quantity of

oil.

33 Engine - preparation 1

3

1

3b Crankshaft

rear bearing

cap

oil

seal

To ensure maximum

for

life

reassembly with

reliability

from

a rebuilt

engine not

only must everything be correctly assembled but all components must be spotlessly clean and the correct spring or plain washers used where originally located. Always lubricate bearing and working surfaces with clean engine oil during reassembly of engine parts. Before reassembly commences, renew any bolts or studs the 2

Chapter

1

Engine

35

threads of which are damaged or corroded. As well as your normal tool kit, gather together clean rags, oil can, 3 a torque wrench and a complete (overhaul) set of gaskets and oil seals.

34 Crankshaft and main bearings Install

1

shaft rear

installation

the main bearing shells into the crankcase, also the crankseal half section, (See Section 31). No. 3 main bearing

oil

incorporates thrust flanges (photo). the bearings liberally (photo). Install the crankshaft. 3 Install the main bearing caps complete with bearing shells. Check 4 that they're in the correct sequence. The caps can only be fitted one way round as their bolt holes are offset (photo). Insert the main bearing cap bolts and tighten to the specified 5 torque. Install the oil seal retainer, complete with rubber sealing strips shell

2

Oil

(photos).

6

Check

that the crankshaft rotates freely. lflS«'

35

Pistons and connecting rods -reassembly and installation

F, 9

1

19 Removing upper crankshaft rear seal with crankshaft installed

1

The pistons must be

installed to the

connecting rods so that the

UPPER

THRUST BEARING

LOWER

m 31.4 Flexible sealing strips

in rear

bearing cap

34.1 Main bearing shell with thrust flanges

Fig.

1

34.2 Lubricate bearing shells

.20

Main bearing

shells

34.3 Crankshaft installed

34.4 Main bearing cap and

34.5b Crankshaft rear bearing cap

35.4

35.7b

Installing bearing

cap

36.5

shell

oil

a

main bearing cap

35.7a Connecting numbers

Installing a piston

Crankshaft

34.5a Tightening

slinger

used on some

37.2a

roJ

and

Insert valve into cylinder

models

37 2b Valve stem

A

- Intake B - Exhaust

seals:

37.2c Installing valve spring and retainer

37.3 Compressing valve spring

bolt

bearing

head

cap

Chapter notch

and

in

the piston crown

is

towards the front

of the

engine

(Figs.

1

Engine

37

1.10

1.11).

Install the piston rings by reversing the rempval method. The oil control ring should be fitted to the lower groove first, and then the two compression rings fitted to their respective grooves so that the word TOP. engraved on the rings, is uppermost. Stagger the ring gaps at

2

equidistant points of a circle to prevent gas blow-by. Turn the crankshaft until No. 1 connecting rod crankpin is at its 3 lowest point of travel. Oil the cylinder bores and the crankpins on the crankshaft.

compressor to No. 1 piston, the rings having with engine oil (photo). Insert the piston/connecting rod assembly into No. 1 cylinder bore 5 so that the notch on the piston crown is towards the front of the engine and the piston skirt is standing squarely on the top of the

4

Install a piston ring

been

liberally lubricated

TIMING

MARKS

cylinder block.

Place the wooden handle of a hammer on the piston crown, then 6 tap the head of the hammer sharply with the hand. This will drive the piston/connecting rod assembly into the bore leaving the piston ring compressor on the top of the block. Draw the connecting rod down into engagement with the crank7 pin, then install the bearing cap. (complete with bearing shell); insert and tighten the cap nuts to the specified torque. Make sure that the

number on the cap matches the one on the connecting it's

rod,

Fig.

1

.21 Aligning

timing marks on sprockets

and that

adjacent to it (photos). Repeat the operations on the remaining piston/connecting rod

8 assemblies.

36 Camshaft and timing gear 1

to

Oil the

installation

camshaft bearings and insert the camshaft taking care not

damage

the bearings as the camshaft lobes pass through them. Turn the crankshaft so that the Woodruff key is vertical and at the

2 top (No. 1 and 6 pistons at TDC). Engage the timing chain with the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket, 3 and then locate the camshaft sprocket within the loop of the chain so that when the camshaft sprocket is installed to the camshaft mounting flange, the sprocket timing marks will be in alignment if a line is drawn through the centers of the two sprockets. The camshaft will have to be turned and the camshaft sprocket re-positioned within the loop of the timing chain before this setting can be achieved. 4 Push the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft mounting flange so that the locating dowel engages; insert the securing bolt and washer, and tighten to the specified torque. 5 Install the oil slinger to the front of the crankshaft where applic-

Fig.

1

.22 Cylinder head bolt tightening

able (photo). Install the timing cover using a new gasket and sealing strip. 6 Tighten the cover and the oil pan bolts fully. 7 Install the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly, and secure with

retaining bolts.

From now on, until you're ready to carry out the initial valve 8 adjustment (Section 38) don't turn the crankshaft unless it's essential. If it has to be turned, either turn it back to its original position, or rotate it

two

full

turns to return

it

to

its

original position.

37 Cylinder head - reassembly and installation 1

Lubricate the stem of the

first

valve and insert

it

into

its

guide

in

the cylinder head.

2

Install a

new

valve

stem

oil

seal, the spring

and the spring

retainer

(photos).

Using a valve spring compressor, compress the valve spring until the lock can be located in the yrooves in the valve stem. Note that intake valves have two grooves in the stem while the exhaust valves 3

have four. The locks are therefore not interchangeable (photo). 4 The locks can be retained in the valve stem grooves with a dab of thick grease while the compressor is carefully released. 5 Install all the valves in the order in which they were removed or, if new valves have been purchased, into the seats into which they have been lapped. When assembly of the valves is complete, tap the end of each 6 valve stem with a hammer and block of hardwood to settle the components.

37.7 Installing

a valve lifter (tappet)

sequence

Chapter

38

Engine

1

7

Install

the valve

lifters in their original

positions (photo).

Coat both sides of a new gasket with jointing compound, and install it to the top face of the cylinder block (photo). Lower the cylinder head into position, insert the cylinder head 9 bolts finger tight, then torque tighten them in two stages to the torque wrench setting given in the Specifications. Install the pushrods in their original order (photo). 1 8

38 Rocker components -

installation

and

initial

valve adjustment

Install the rocker shaft/arm assembly to the cylinder head, making 1 sure that the flat of the shaft is uppermost and towards the front of the engine. 2 Install the rocker shaft retainers between the rocker arms, making sure that they seat on the shaft and not on the projecting bushing of

the rocker arms. central positon.

3

Install

tighten

37.8 Cylinder head gasket

in

position

Make

sure that the longer retainer

is

fitted in the

the rocker shaft pillar bolts (long bolt at rear of engine) and

them

to the specified torque (photo).

4 At this point, adjust the valve lash, although it will have to be checked and adjusted again when the engine has been warmed up to the normal operating temperature. Check that No. 1 piston is still at TDC on its firing stroke as set in 5 Section 36. Adjust both valves of No. 1 cylinder to give a lash (measured with a feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the end of the valve stem) of 0010 in for the inlet valves and 0024 in (initial adjustment only) for exhaust valve (photo). 7 If the firing order of the engine is followed, 1-5-3-6-2-4, excessive turning of the crankshaft will be avoided when bringing each piston to TDC and adjusting the remaining valves. Counting from the front of the engine exhaust valves are Nos. 1 8 and 3 - 5 - 8 - 10 and 12. and inlet valves are Nos.

6

2-4-6-7-9

1

1.

The rocker arm adjusting screws are of interference thread type and require no locknut. Always use a close fitting ring wrench to turn them. 10 Install the valve cover using a new gasket. 9

39 Ancillary components 1

2

This

is

When

installation

basically the reverse of the removal procedure.

screwing

in

the

oil

screen and pipe assembly, hold a steel crankcase and measure from the

rule against the flat surface inside the

edge 37. 10 Installing pushrods

3

of the rule to the

When

1j in, which bottom of the

38.3 Installing rocker

pillar bolts

edge of the screen.

the assembly will give oil

is

•£•

pan.

38.6 Checking valve lash

correctly installed, this dimension should be to

-j-

in

interference of the screen with the

Chapter

Engine

1

39

with the break-in, but

40 Engine adjustment 1

With the engine

after

installed,

major servicing check

all

leads for correct connection. Check that the engine has been 2

Run Remove

new

internal

filled

with

oil

and the cooling

components.

reaches normal operating temperature. the valve cover and check the valve lash as described in Section 38. The feeler should be stiff sliding fit between the rocker arm and the end of the valve stem. Note the specified clearances for a hot

4

the engine until

it

engine.

5 6

Check Check

described

for oil or all

in

should be drained after 500 miles and the

hoses, controls and electrical

system filled with coolant. Set the engine idling speed slightly faster than normal to offset the 3 stiffness of

it

normal lubricant used.

coolant leaks.

41

Engine mounts - removal and installation

Front Raise the hood and, if necessary, position the fan to ensure 1 clearance for the radiator top hose. Raise the front end of the vehicle, then support the engine using a 2 fixture of the type used for engine removal (Section 4). Remove the bracket and insulator nuts, then raise the engine suf3 ficiently to provide access for removing the mounts. 4 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

carburetion, emission control and ignition settings as

Chapters 3 and

Rear

4.

500

miles running, check the torque of the cylinder head bolts (hot), check the valve lash again and, if new internal components have been installed, renew the engine oil.

Raise the vehicle for access to the transmission, then use a shop 5 jack with a wood-block on the jack head to support the transmission

It's recommended that where a number of new engine com8 ponents have been used, particularly pistons, or the cylinder block has been rebored, then engine speed should be restricted for the first few hundred miles. During this period an oil additive may be used to assist

6 7

7

After

weight.

8 9

Remove Remove Remove

the rear

mount throughbolt.

the U-bracket from the frame crossmember. the insulator from the bottom of the extension housing. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

A

Fig.

Fig.

1

.24 Front engine

mounts

1

.23 Positioning

oil

screen and pipe assembly

Fig.

1

.25 Rear support

Chapter

40 42 Fault diagnosis

-

engine

Reason/s

Symptom Engine

will

Engine

1

not turn over

when

starter switch

is

operated

Flat battery

Bad battery connections Bad connections at solenoid switch and/or starter motor Defective starter motor Engine turns over normally but

No spark at plugs No fuel reaching engine Too much fuel reaching the engine

fails to start

Engine starts but runs unevenly and misfires

system

Ignition and/or fuel

(flooding)

faults

Incorrect valve lash

Burnt out valves

Worn out piston rings Lack of power

system

Ignition and/or fuel

faults

Incorrect valve lash

Burnt out valves

Worn out piston rings Excessive

oil

consumption

Oil leaks

from crankshaft, rear oil

seal, valve

cover gasket,

oil filter

seal, timing

gasket,

oil

cover gasket and

pan gasket,

oil

oil

pan plug

washer

Worn piston rings or cylinder bores resulting

in oil

being burnt by

engine

Worn valve guides and/or defective valve stem seals Wrong valve lash Worn crankshaft bearings Worn cylinders (piston slap)

Excessive mechanical noise from engine

Slack or worn timing chain and sprockets

When investigating starting and uneven running faults don't be tempted into snap diagnosis.

Start from the beginning of the check procedure take less time in the long run. Poor performance from an engine in terms of power and economy isn 't normally diagnosed quickly. In any event the ignition and fuel systems must be checked first before assuming any further investigation needs to be made.

Note:

and follow it through.

It will

PARTB-8-CYLINDER ENGINE

camshaft can only be removed after the engine has been removed from the vehicle.

43 General description

45 Engine cover - removal and

Two

different 8-cylinder families are used,

head valve type. The smaller engine

is

400

or

capacity, and the larger

one

either

both being

either a

440

cu

318

or

V8 over360 cu in

installation

a

1

Refer to Section 3.

in.

are similar in many respects, the associated with items driven from the camshaft (ie the installed position of the distributor and oil pump). On 3 1 8/360 engines, the distributor is on top of the engine at the rear, the oil pump is internal and the oil filter is on the right side of the crankcase. On 400/440 engines, the distributor is on top of the engine at the front, the oil pump is mounted on the front left side of the crankcase with the oil filter attached to it. The camshaft is driven by a chain from the crankshaft sprocket, and operates the valve gear through hydraulic tappets (lifters),

The two engine families

difference

mainly

being

pushrods and rockers.

The pistons are of light control ring. The piston pin in

46 Engine - removal and 1

Refer to Section 4, but note the following differences:

(b)

The intake manifold must be removed. The left exhaust manifold must be removed.

fcj

On

(a)

(d) (e)

alloy, is

having three compression and one

oil

a floating-fit in the piston, but a press-fit

air conditioned models the right cylinder head cover must be removed. The oil filter must be removed. On 318/360 engines the oil pan must be removed after the flywheel or driveplate has been removed. To give clearance,

shown in Fig 1.26, remove pan screws, then lower the oil pan so that the pick-up tube and strainer can he turned slightly to the right. On 400/440 engines, the oil pan need not be removed. turn the crankshaft to the position

the connecting rod end.

the

NOTE: Some 3181360 engines use exhaust valve rotators to reduce On these engines, before any major cylinder head

exhaust valve wear.

operation is commenced, run the engine with the cylinder head covers removed. With the engine running at different speeds within the range 1000 to 3000 rpm, check that the valves rotate. Any faulty rotators must be renewed during the repair operation.

(f)

Refer to

Section 2,

but

note that on

in

the vehicle

318/360 engines

the

oil

When

lifting-out the engine,

and attach cylinder

When 2 paragraph 44 Major operations possible with the engine

installation

use the intake manifold screws

a strong short chain

heads

installing,

between the centers of

to provide a pick-up

refer

to

Section

On 318/360

attachment

the

for the crane.

4 and the items noted

in

engines, don't forget to position the crankshaft correctly for installing the oil pan. Before the oil pan can be properly positioned, it will be necessary to swing the oil strainer downward to its proper position, which is parallel to the machined 1

of this Section.

Chapter surface of the block. Note that the bottom of the strainer the bottom of the oil pan when it's installed.

must touch

Refer to Section 6, noting that the

On 400/440

On 400/440 models

with air conditioning where the engine is in the vehicle, detach the compressor at its mounting, and place a j in wood-block between the bracket and the engine block. This allows the cylinder head to clear the dowel pin, and does not require depressurizing of the air conditioning system.

51

oil

filter

has already been

removed. 2

41

in

Remove the 10 cylinder head bolts 7 cylinder head bolts (400/440 engines) and

Refer to Section 5.

48 Ancillary components - removal 1

6

position

47 Engine dismantling - general 1

Engine

1

engines, ignore the reference to the

oil

(318/360 engines) lift

or

17

off the cylinder head(s).

Cylinder head - dismantling

Refer to Section 9, but note that there will be 8 valves for each 1 cylinder head.

screen and

pipe assembly.

49 Rocker components - removal Detach the ignition HT leads and the hoses around the cylinder 1 head covers. Make a note of where they're installed to simplify installation.

Remove Remove Remove

the cylinder head covers and gaskets. the rocker shaft bolts and retainers. 4 the rocker arms and shaft as an assembly, and put carefully aside where they can't be damaged or mixed-up.

2 3

them

50 Cylinder head - removal 1

If

the engine

is in

position

in

the vehicle:

Disconnect the battery ground lead Drain the cooling system

Remove Remove

the alternator the air cleaner

Disconnect the emission control hoses and wires, noting carefully where they were installed Disconnect the carburetor fuel line Remove the distributor cap (400/440 engines) Remove the intake manifold, ignition coil and carburetor as an assembly 2

3

4 5

Remove Remove Remove

the tappet chamber cover (400/440 engines). the exhaust manifolds. the rocker arm and shaft assemblies (Section 49). Extract the pushrods and keep them in their original sequence for

H7S82.

Fig.

1

.26 Crankshaft and

pick up tube positioned for removal

oil

installation.

'2x4 WOOD| BLOCKS Fig.

1

I

.27 Lifting rear of engine - typical

Fig.

1

.28 Engine removal - typical

oil

pan

1

Chapter

42

Engine

1

52 Timing cover and chain - removal and chain inspection 1

If

the engine

is in

position

in

the vehicle:

Drain the cooling system

Remove the radiator Remove the water pump On 318/360 models, remove

the

power

steering

pump, where

applicable

2 3

Remove the crankshaft pulley and vibration damper. On 318/360 models, detach the fuel lines and remove

pump. 4 On 318/360 engines, loosen the bolt

on each

oil

pan

bolts;

the fuel

remove the

front

side.

Remove the timing cover bolts, and take the cover off. Take care 5 on 318/360 models to avoid damaging the oil pan gasket at the front. 6 Measure the chain stretch as described in Section 10, paragraph 5.

Remove the camshaft bolt; on 316/360 engines also remove the cap washer and fuel pump eccentric (photo). 8 Remove the chain complete with camshaft and crankshaft 7

52.7 Removing cup washer and eccentric (3 1 8/360)

sprockets.

53

Oil

pan - removal and installation

31 8/360 engines 1

Refer to paragraphs

2

Installation

make

sure that

is

1

through 22 of Section 13, and Section 46.

basically the reverse of the removal procedure, but

it's

clean and dry

first.

Refer to Section 4, paragraph

28(a).

400/440 engines Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the engine cover (Section 3). Using a support such as the one shown in Fig. 1 .27, made from 1y 5 in or larger galvanized pipe, raise the engine slightly. 6 Raise the vehicle as necessary, and detach the idler arm brackets from the chassis frame (Chapter 1 1 ). 7 Remove the strut bars from the lower control arms (Chapter 1 1 ). Remove the shock absorbers (Section 1 1 ). 8 9 Remove the engine mount insulator upper nuts. 10 Mark the frame and crossmember on both sides to simplify alignment on installation, then remove the crossmember outboard retaining bolts and replace with 4y in long bolts to permit realignment. 1 Support the crossmember with jackstands or blocks, then carefully remove the retaining bolts and lower the crossmember. 1 2 Drain the oil pan and remove the dipstick tube. 13 Remove the bolts and take off the oil pan. Use a knife blade or 3

4

54.1

Removing the

55

Removing

5

oil

pump (318/360)

driveshaft

55.7 Removing camshaft thrust plate (318/360)

Chapter blows from

light

a

plastic

hammer

to free

it

if

it's

1

Engine

43

"^

sticking to the

crankcase.

removal procedure, but Use new gaskets and seals, and

Installation is basically the reverse of the

14

make

sure that

it's

clean and dry

tighten the bolts progressively

54

Oil

pump - removal and

first.

and evenly.

installation

318/360 engines pan removed, remove the retaining bolts, and detach the rear main bearing cap (photo). Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, but lubricate 2 the parts with engine oil first. 1

With the

the

oil

oil

pump from

400/440 engines Where applicable, remove the oil filter using a strap wrench. 3 4 Remove the attaching bolts, and remove the pump and filter assembly from the engine crankcase. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure; make sure 5 that the O-ring is installed on the pump pilot, and lubricate the parts with engine

55 Valve

oil first.

Fig.

1

.29 Measuring timing chain stretch - typical

and camshaft- removal

lifters

1 On 318/360 engines, the camshaft can only be removed with the engine out of the vehicle. On 400/440 engines, the camshaft can be removed with the engine on the bench or in the vehicle. 2 Remove the rocker arm and shaft assemblies (Section 49). Remove the pushrods and valve lifters (tappets), but take great 3 care that they're not mixed up, so that they can be installed in their

FUEL

LOCK

THRUST

PUMP

PLATE

ECCENTRIC

BOLT OIL

original positions.

4

Remove

5

Lift

the distributor (Chapter 4). out the oil pump and distributor drive shaft (photo). On 400/440 models, remove the fuel pump so that the push rod 6 can drop away from the cam. 7 On 318/360 models, remove the camshaft thrust plate, noting the location of the oil tab (photo). Screw a long bolt into the end of the camshaft then carefully draw 8 the camshaft out, being careful not to the

cam

damage

the

cam

PUMP AND

DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR INTEGRAL

WITH CAMSHAFT

\ CUP WASHER

'CAMSHAFT SPROCKET Fig.

1.30 Camshaft (318/360)

bearings with

lobes.

9/0

56 Pistons and connecting rods - removal and dismantling 1 Refer to Section 14, but note that the connecting rods are positioned with the larger chamfer of the connecting rod bore towards the crankshaft journal fillet. Also note that, if not already marked, the

connecting rods and caps should be marked

1

to 8.

57 Crankshaft and main bearings - removal 1

Refer to Section 15, but note that the bearing caps should be

marked

1

to 5.

BOLT

CAMSHAFT SPROCKET

CAMSHAFT

WASHER

THRUST PLATE REAR SIDE -DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE

GEAR

(CAMSHAFT) FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC (CAMSHAFT)

LOCATING DOWEL Fig.

1

.31

Camshaft (400/440)

Fig.

1

.32

Camshaft thrust plate

(31

8/360)

Chapter

44

ROCKER

ARM— "LEFT"

ROCKER

Engine

1

ARM— "RIGHT

I

Fig.

RELIEVED FOR ROTATOR

ROCKER

CLEARANCE

INTAKE ROCKER Fig.

1

ARM

.33 Rocker

1

ROCKER ARMS — "LEFT"|

.34 Rocker

arm

locations (31 8/360)

ROCKER ARM — "RIGHT

ARM— "LEFT" /

EXHAUST ROCKER ARM arm

identification (31 8/360)

OILITE

Fig.

1

.35 Rocker

arm

SPACER

identification (400/440)

PLUNGER SPRING

^..K.^ro PLUNGER

CHECK VALVE

TAPPET Fig.

1

.36 Rocker

arm

locations (400/440)

BODY

7

RETAINER

i

PLUNGER RETAINER

SPRING

\

CLIP

da,

>

CHECK VALVE SPRING Fig.

1

.37 Valve

lifter

PLUNGER CAP

(tappet) - exploded

view

58 Crankcase ventilation system 1

Refer to Section 16.

59 Examination and renovation - general 1

Refer to Section

1

7.

60 Crankshaft and main bearings - examination and renovation Fig.

1

.38 Testing valve

lifters 1

Refer to Section 18.

.

Chapter

Engine

1

45

shown 61

Connecting rods and bearings - examination and renovation

1

Refer to Section 19.

in Fig. 38 (Chrysler tool C-31 60 or C4343). With the upper jaw of the tool on top of the plunger, test the breakdown by compressing the tool by hand 10 If the lifter collapses almost immediately, it's either faulty or dirty If it cannot be rectified by cleaning, it must be renewed. After testing, dismantle the lifter and dry all the parts, then reassemble using engine oil to lubricate the parts. 1

62 Cylinder bores - examination and renovation 1

2

Refer to Section 20. If the cylinder block

is being rebored, it's a good idea to have the bushing renewed at the same time. This requires removing and installing, and is best left to the shop

1

9

1

71

Cylinder head

1

Refer to Section 29.

72

Oil

decarbonizing and examination

distributor drive shaft

special tools for

doing the reboring.

pump

- servicing

63 Pistons and pistons rings - examination and renovation 1

Refer to Section 21

31 8/360 engine 1

64 Camshaft and bearings - examination and renovation 1 Refer to Section 22, but note the No. 1 bearing on a 400 440 engine should be ^ in from the front face of the cylinder block. On 3 1 6/360 engines this bearing is installed to its full depth.

65 Flywheel

(or driveplate)

- examination and renovation

Remove

2

Clamp

retainer

the screw

cap

is

a vise,

in

drill

a { in hole into the relief valve into the cap.

screw

then tap the

pump body

so that the

pulled out.

Remove the bolts and lockwashers, and take off the pump cover. 3 Discard the seal ring. 4 Remove the inner rotor and shaft, and lift out the outer rotor Clean all the components, and check for wear by reference to the 5 limits given in the Specifications. Renew parts as necessary. 6

Reassembly

sure that 1

the cotter pin then

retainer cap. Insert a sheet metal

all

is

the reverse of the dismantling procedure, but

parts are generously lubricated with engine

oil.

Refer to Section 23.

400/440 engines 1

Detach the

filter

base and

oil

seal ring.

66 Timing components - examination and renovation

DRIVE SHAFT 1

Refer to Section 24.

AND GEAR

BODY

67 Rocker gear - examination and renovation 1 Refer to Section 25. Note that on 318/360 engines, where exhaust valve rotators are used, the exhaust rocker must have the relief clearance (Fig. 1 .33). Refer to Section 80 for assembly informa-

tion.

SPRII

68 Valve guides - examination and renovation 1

«^

Refer to Section 26.

RELIEF

^OUTER ROTOR

BOLT Fig.

1

.39 Oil

pump

69 Valves and valve seats - examination and renovation 1

Refer to Section 27. Fig. 1.33

engines, but

45° face

equally applicable to 318 360 intake and exhaust valves with

angles.

70 Pushrods and valve 1

is

400/440 engines have

Check the pushrods

lifters

- examination and renovation

for distortion,

if

any are bent they should be

renewed. Pry out the valve lifter plunger retainer clip. Clean off any varnish from the top of the lifter bore, then invert the lifter and remove the plunger cap, plunger, check valve, spring, retainer and plunger spring. Don't mix up parts between different valve lifters

2

3

(photo).

4 Clean all the parts and check for damage. If visible, renew the complete lifter assembly. Reassemble the lifter, leaving out the retainer clip, cap and 5 plunger.

6

the lifter with kerosene and install the plunger. Use a brass rod or similar to unseat the check valve, to permit complete installation of the plunger cap. With the lifter in an upright position, grip it in a tool such as is 8

VALVE

Fill

7

70. 3 Valve

lifter

parts (typical)

(31 8/360) -

exploded view

make

Chapter

46

BOLTS

PLUG GASKET

8

AND WASHERS FILTER

lift

out the outer

pump

the relief valve plug: remove the spring and plunger. the components, and check for wear by reference to the limits given in the Specifications. Renew parts as necessary. 1 1 Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure, but make sure that all parts are generously lubricated with engine oil.

9

Remove

10 Clean

&5 SPRING

the inner rotor and shaft, and

Remove

rotor.

/OIL

COVER

Engine

1

all

ROTOR

VALVE PLUNGER

RELIEF

73 Engine

oil

seals - renewal with engine dismantled

1 This is basically as described should be noted:

(a)

SEAL RING

(b)

(c)

.40 Oil

pump

On 360 cu

in engines, gasket sealant should be applied to the ends of the crankshaft bearing cap adjacent to the rubber

On 31 8 cu to those

"O" RING

1

Section 31, but the following

seal.

GASKET

Fig.

in

in

engines, side seals are used; these are similar

used on the 225 cu

On 400 440 cu

in

in

engine (photos).

engines, special side seals are used on the

crankshaft rear bearing cap. These must be immersed in mineral spirits or diesel fuel then installed immediately because they start to swell. Ensure that no gasket sealer is

(400/440) - exploded view

used.

74 Crankshaft

ADD

rear

oil

seal - renewal with engine installed

1 The information given in paragraph 6 onward of Section 32 is applicable to the 8-cylinder engines, but note the additional information given in Section 73.

SEALS

SEALER

75 Engine - preparation 1

reassembly

for

Refer to Section 33.

76 Crankshaft and main bearings - installation 360

ENGINE BEARING CAP Fig.

1

.41

318

ENGINE BEARING CAP

Rear main bearing caps (318/360)

1

Refer to Section 34 (photos).

77

Pistons and connecting rods - reassembly and installation

1

Refer to Section 35 (photos)

78 Camshaft and timing gear - installation 1

This

is

basically as described in Section 36, but line-up the timing

UPPER

Fig.

1

.42 Oil pan

end sealing (360)

LOWER

Fig

1

43

Mam

bearing shells (318/360)

73.1b (i) Crankshaft rear bearing cap side seals (318/360)

73.1 b

76.1b Main bearing cap and

76.1c

shell (typical)

(ii)

Crankshaft rear bearing seal (typical)

Centre

76.1a

thrust

main

bearing

shell

installed (typical)

Installing crankshaft (typica

Tightening

76. 1d

main

bearing

cap

bolt

(typical)

77.1a

Front

identification

mark

on

piston

77.1 b Installing a piston (typical)

Connecting rod and identification marks (typical) 77. 1d

77.1c

Installing a

connecting rod bearing cap

(typical)

(typical)

bearing

cap

78.2 Crankshaft sprocket installed (typica |)

78 6

Distributor drive gear installed (typical)

48

UPPER

TIMING

LOWER

MARKS Fig.

Fig.

1

1

.45 Aligning timing marks on sprockets (31 8/360)

.44 Main bearing shells (400/440)

DRIVE Fig.

Fig.

1

.46 Aligning timing

1

.47

GEAR &r,L

Camshaft loading

tool

- typical for 31 8/360 engine

marks on sprockets (400/440) DISTRIBUTOR AND OIL PUMP DRIVE

GEAR

CENTER LINE OF CRANKSHAFT Fig. Fig.

1

.48 Distributor drive gear installed position (31 8/360)

1

.49 Distributor drive gear installed position (400/440)

Chapter

1

Engine

marks on the two sprockets and install the chain with the components lying flat on the bench. Offer the sprockets and chain up to the camshaft and crankshaft, 2 keeping the marks in line, then turn the camshaft and crankshaft as necessary so that the sprockets can be pushed on to engage with the shaft keys (photo).

When installed, recheck the alignment of the timing marks (Figs. 3 1.45 and 1.46). 4 Take care with tapping the sprockets into place. If possible, make up a tool so that the camshaft can be loaded in the forward direction, by applying effort to the sides of the distributor drive gear. If this isn't done, there's a danger of knocking out the welch plug at the rear of the block. Install the timing cover and damper/pulley assembly. 5 6 At this stage, the distributor drive gear can be installed 1.48 and 1.49 (photo).

-

see

Figs.

79 Cylinder head - reassembly and installation Refer to Section 37. The tightening sequence is shown in Figs. .50 and 1.51. On 400/440 engines it's useful to use a rod to prevent the pushrods from moving out of position (Fig. 1.52) (photos). 1

1

79.1a

Installing a valve (typical)

79.1 b Installing a valve lock (typical) Fig.

1

.50 Cylinder head tightening sequence (318/360)

79.1c Installing

a valve lifter (typical)

79. 1d Installing a pushrod (typical)

49

CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLIES

Fig.

1

INTAKE PUSH RODS

head tightening sequence (400/440)

.51 Cylinder

INSTALLING ROD

EXHAUST PUSH RODS Fig.

1

.52 Locating rods for pushrods (400/440)

TIGHTENING

TORQUE 200 IN. LBS.

RIGHT BANK Fig.

1

LEFT

.53 Rocker

arm

BANK

3£ 75 \£ 55

lubrication holes (400/440)

RIGHT SIDE Fig.

1

.54 Front

mounts (318/360)

BRACKET INSULATOR X

A>

FRONT

.

4k

TIGHTENING

TORQUE B

A

75 FT. LBS. 65 FT. LBS.

81.1 Rocker shaft retaining bolts Fig.

1

.55 Front

mounts (400/440)

in

position (typical)

FT.

LBS.

FT.

LBS.

Chapter

80 Rocker components -

installation

31 8/360 engines 1

end

Install

the rocker

arm and

shaft assemblies with the notch'

of the rocker shaft pointing to the centerline of the engine.

Ancillary

1

This

is

components -

basically the reverse of the removal procedure.

82 Engine adjustment

after

the rocker arms and shaft assembly, making sure that the stamped steel retainers are in the number two and four positions. The rocker shafts must be positioned so that the ^ in rocker arm Install

downward into the rocker arm, so that 5° angle of the hole points outward towards the valve end of the rocker arms (the 1 5° angle of the lubrication holes is determined from 1

the centerline of the bolt holes through the shaft

1

Refer to Section 41

,

Install

7

Install

and torque tighten the retaining bolts. the cylinder head cover using a new gasket.

installation

but refer to Figs.

mounts.

84

Fault diagnosis - engine

1

Refer to Section 42.

which are used to

attach the shaft assembly to the cylinder head).

6

major servicing

Refer to Section 40, but ignore any references to valve lash adjus1 ment.

lubrication holes are pointing

the

installation

83 Engine mounts - removal and

400/440 engines 5

81

the

bank it must be toward the front of the engine, and on the right bank toward the rear of the engine. Don't forget the long stamped steel retainers in the number two and four positions. Install and torque tighten the retaining bolts (photo). 2 Install the cylinder head cover using a new gasket. 3

long

51

on the

On

left

4

Engine

1

1

.54 and

1

.55 for the front

1

Chapter 2 Cooling system Contents 6 2 3 5

Antifreeze

system - draining system - flushing system (with radiator reserve tank) - filling system (without radiator reserve tank) - filling Drivebelts - adjustment Engine block heater - removal and installation Fan - removal and installation

Cooling Cooling Cooling Cooling

Fan and

fluid drive -

4 14 1

Water pump

-

13 15

removal and installation

cooling system General description Radiator - removal and installation Radiator pressure cap - inspection Thermostat - removal, testing and installation Fault diagnosis

-

1

7

8 9

10

removal and installation

12

Specifications

System type

Pressurized with

Radiator pressure cap setting

1

Number of fan blades

4,

6

lbf/in

pump and fan assistance

2

5 or 7

Thermostat setting Other engines

185°F(85°C) 195°F(91°C)

Heavy duty 8-cylinder

System capacity

USqt

225cu inengine 318 cu inengine 360cu in engine 400/440 cu inengine

13 17 16

Impqt 10* 14* 13*

15*

13

Antifreeze type

Ethylene-glycol

Torque wrench settings

Ibfft

Nm

Water pump

30

41

bolts

Fan attaching bolts Thermostat housing bolts

litres

12* 16

15* 14*

17

23

30

41

mains supply. General description

1

2

pressurized at 16 lbf/in and water circulation is by means of an engine driven impeller-type pump. The thermostat prevents cooling water being circulated through the radiator until a pre-determined temperature has been reached, to aid the engine warm-up. An Increased Cooling System is used on models equipped with the

The cooling system

Trailer

is

,

Towing Package.

transmission models and Increased Cooling System models, a coolant reserve system is incorporated to collect any coolant overflowing from the main system. This system has a special type of

On automatic

radiator cap.

Automatic transmission models have

a transmission oil cooler in

the base of the radiator.

On some models fan drive

a fluid fan drive or thermostatically-controlled

used. An engine block heater is available as an accessory on all models. This allows the engine to be initially warmed up slightly under very cold operating conditions, and is fed from a normal household 100v fluid

is

2

Cooling system -draining

Should the system have to be left empty for any reason, both the and radiator must be drained; otherwise, with a partly drained system, corrosion of the water pump impeller seal face may occur, with subsequent early failure of the pump seal and bearing. Place the vehicle on a level surface, and have ready a container of 2 adequate capacity for the particular system, which will slide beneath the front underside of the engine and radiator. Move the heater control on the facia to 'hot' and unscrew and 3 remove the radiator cap. If hot. unscrew the cap very slowly, first covering it with a cloth to remove the danger of scalding when the pressure in the system is released. Unscrew the drain tap at the base of the radiator then, when the 4 coolant ceases to flow into the container, repeat the operation by unscrewing the cylinder block plug on the engine sidewall (photo). If the coolant has not been in use for more than 12 months, it can 5 be retained for further use provided that it's not discolored. 1

cylinder block

Chapter 2 Cooling system

3

Cooling system

-

53

flushing

The radiator and waterways in the engine may become restricted 1 or even blocked with scale or sediment which reduces the efficiency of the cooling system. When this condition occurs or the coolant appears

system should be flushed. In severe cases be required as described later. Drain the cooling system (Section 2). 2 Place a hose in the radiator filler neck. Allow water to run through 3 the system until it emerges from both drain taps as clean water. In severe cases of contamination of the coolant or in the system, 4 reverse flush by first removing the radiator cap and disconnecting the lower radiator hose at the radiator outlet pipe. Insert a hose in the radiator bottom connection and flush through in this direction. To flush the engine water jackets, remove the thermostat as 5 described later in this Chapter, and place a hose in the thermostat location until clear water runs from the water pump inlet. Cleaning by the use of chemical compounds is not recommended. rusty or dark in color, the

reverse flushing

4

may

Cooling system (without radiator reserve tank) -

filling

Read Section 6 1

2

before filling the Cooling system Place the heater control to the 'hot' position. Screw in the radiator drain tap and close the cylinder block drain

2.4 Radiator drain plug. Also sion oil cooler lines

tap or plug. Pour coolant slowly into the radiator so that air can be expelled 3 through the thermostat pin hole without being trapped in a waterway. 4 Fill to the correct level which is 1 T in below the radiator filler neck

and install the filler cap. Run the engine, check 5

5

shown

is

one

of the automatic transmis-

PRESSURE CAP 16 PSI-

for leaks

and recheck the coolant

Cooling system (with radiator reserve tank) -

FAN SHROUD

RADIATOR

level.

YOKE

filling

Read Section 6 before filling the Cooling System 1 Remove the pressure cap from the radiator and the cap from

the

reserve (expansion) tank. Fill the radiator slowly with coolant until it is completely full. Run 2 the engine until the top hose is hot and top up the radiator. Install the

radiator cap.

Pour more coolant into the reserve tank until it is between the two marks on the tank. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. If the coolant 4 level goes down in the reserve tank, pour in more coolant until it's again between the two marks on the tank. 3

5 6

the reserve tank cap. the cooling system requires topping up in the future, only remove the cap from the reserve tank. Use coolant containing the Install

Whenever

same percentage

6

up purposes, tank between the 1

of antifreeze as the original for topping

and always keep the coolant quart and 2 quart marks.

level in the reserve

Fig. 2.1

Radiator and shroud - typical

Antifreeze

The cooling system should be filled with a 50% antifreeze solution year round. This is essential on air conditioning models. 2 It's preferable to renew the mixture annually, and essential that it's renewed at least every two years. Any refilling of the cooling system must be done with an antifreeze 3 water mixture rather than water alone. When topping up, always use the correct strength water/antifreeze mixture. 4 Any antifreeze of the ethylene-glycol long-life type is suitable in the system, but mixing of different brands is not permitted. 1

all

7 1

link

2

3

Radiator - removal and installation Drain the cooling system (Section 2) and disconnect the fusible or battery ground strap.

Detach the upper radiator hose. the four nuts and push the fan shroud rearward on the

Remove

engine.

4

Remove

the

two top

radiator

mounting screws.

Fig. 2.2.

Radiator removal - typical

Chapter 2 Cooling system

54

On air conditioning models, remove the grille (Chapter 12) and remove the condenser mounting screws. 6 Raise the front of the vehicle and detach the radiator lower hose. 7 On automatic transmission models disconnect and plug the oil 5

cooler lines. Collect any fluid spilt

While supporting the

8

in a

radiator,

clean container.

remove the two lower mounting

screws, then lower the radiator out of the yoke. If the radiator is partially clogged with sediment, clean it by 9 reverse flushing as described in Section 3. 10 Take the opportunity to brush away all bugs and debris from the radiator fins using a soft brush and air pressure. If the radiator is leaking, have it repaired by experts, particularly if 1 1 it incorporates a transmission fluid cooler. 12 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Refill the cooling system as described in Section 4 or 5. On automatic transmission models check the fluid level (Chapter 6). Where necessary, use new hose clips on the top and bottom hoses.

Radiator pressure cap - inspection

8

1 The radiator, pressure cap is a most important component of the cooling system. Weakness in the main spring can cause overheating or seizure of the vent valve can cause collapse of the system hoses or radiator under extreme conditions.

Regularly check the ease of movement of both components, also 2 the condition of the rubber seals in the cap. If the cap fails to seal positively, have it tested by a service station 3 and renew it if necessary with one of a similar pressure rating only. Fig. 2.3.

Radiator cap - withot-t coolant reserve

Thermostat - removal, testing and

9

installation

Drain about one gallon of coolant from the system. Disconnect the radiator upper hose from the thermostat housing. Unbolt and remove the thermostat housing. Extract the thermostat from its seat. If it is stuck don't pry it out,

1

2

3

4 but

first

5

To

cut round

its outer edge using a sharp pointed knife. whether the unit is serviceable, suspend the thermostat on a piece of string in a pan of water being heated. Using a thermometer, with reference to the operating temperature in the Specifications, its operation may be checked. The thermostat should be renewed if stuck open or closed, or it fails to operate at the specified temperature. The operation of the thermostat is not instantaneous and sufficient time must be allowed for movement during testing. Never re-install a faulty unit - leave it out if no replacement is available immediately. After removing the old sealing gasket, clean the seating then 6

test

new

install a

gasket.

thermostat is the reverse of the removal proce8-cylinder engines the thermostat puller faces downward: on 6-cylinder engines the vent hole faces up. Don't forget to refill the cooling system on completion (Section 4 8 7

Installation of the

dure.

or

On

5).

10 Water pump - removal and

225 cu

in

installation

engine

Drain the cooling system (Section 2). 2 Loosen the alternator, power steering pump or idler pulley, and remove all the drive belts. Remove the retaining bolts, and take off the fan. spacer and pulley 3 1

Fig. 2.4.

Radiator cap - with coolant reserve

as an assembly. Move the by-pass lower clamp to the center of the hose: discon-

4

nect the heater hose Remove the bolts and take off the water pump. 5 Discard the gasket and clean the mating surfaces. 6

31 8/360 cu

EIGHT CYLINDER Fig. 2.5 Typical

SIX

CYLINDER

thermostats

in

engine

Drain the cooling system (Section 2). On air conditioning models, remove the radiator (Section 7). Loosen the alternator, power steering pump and air pump (as 8 applicable) and remove the drive belts. On air conditioning models, remove the alternator adjusting 9 bracket and steering pump attaching bolts On other models remove the alternator bracket bolts from the pump, swing the alternator aside 7

91

Chapter 2 Cooling system and tighten the pivot bolt. 10 Remove the fan blades, spacer (or fluid coupling), pulley and bolts Note: Don't leave a fluid coupling with its shaft as an assembly. downward, or fluid may leak into the fan drive bearing. Disconnect the heater and by-pass hoses. 1 12 Remove the air conditioning compressor pulley and field coil assembly (if applicable). 13 Remove the water pump-to-compressor front mount bracket bolts and bracket (if applicable). Remove the retaining bolts and take off the water pump. 1 4 Discard the gasket and clean the mating surfaces. 1 5

400/440 cu

in engine 16 Disconnect the fusible

link

and drain the cooling system (Section

2).

17 Loosen all the drive belts and remove the crankshaft pulley. 18 Remove the screws and push the fan shroud back over the water

pump housing. Remove the 20 Remove the 1

21

55

Installation (all

22

Installation

models)

the reverse of the removal procedure, using a new clips where necessary. 23 Adjust the drive belt tension (Section 14), and refill the cooling system (Section 4 or 5). gasket. Install

1 1

is

new hoses and hose

Engine block heater - removal and installation

Drain the cooling system (Section 2). Detach the power cord plug. Loosen the center screw and remove the heater assembly. 3 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, but make sure 4 that the element loop is upward. With the heater pressed in to seat it, tighten the center screw. Refill the cooling system on completion (Section 4 or 5). 5 1

2

12 Fan - removal and installation bolts,

and take

off the fan fluid coupling.

retaining bolts and take off the water pump. Discard the gasket and clean the mating surfaces.

CORD RETAINING

1

2

Remove Remove

the radiator (Section 7). the bolts, and take off the fan and spacer.

CLIPS

POWER CORD WITH PLUG

POWER CORD

STARTER

ENGINE RIGHT SIDE

HEATER DETAIL Fig. 2.6.

Engine block heater - typical for 6-cylinder models

Fig. 2.7

Engine block heater - typical for 8-cylinder models

ENGINE

LEFT SIDE

POWER CORDS AND PLUGS

^

1

Chapter 2 Cooling system

56

8

CYLINDER ENGINE, WITH AIR

SIX

CONDITIONING AND POWER STEERING Fig. 2.8

3

belts.

Arrows show points

is the reverse of the removal procedure. Don't forget to the cooling system on completion (Section 4 or 5).

Installation

refill

1

Engine drive

assembly from under the vehicle. 1 Separate the fan from the fluid drive. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Don't forget 1 2 refill the cooling system on completion (Section 4 or 5).

in

with air conditioning

and power

1

The number

1

Disconnect the fusible

link

and

partially drain the cooling

system.

Remove the bolts and set the power steering pump aside. 2 Remove the bolts and take off the fan and fluid drive as an 3 assembly. Turn the wheels approximately 30° to the right, and lower the assembly from the vehicle. 4 Separate the fan from the fluid drive. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Don't forget to 5 refill the cooling system on completion (Section 4 or 5).

400 and 440 cu

in

with

air

conditioning

and power

steering 7

8 9

to

4 Drivebelts - adjustment

steering

6

measuring deflection

3 Fan and fluid drive - removal and installation

318 and 360 cu 1

of

CYLINDER ENGINE WITH POWER STEERING

pump

housing.

10 Remove the

Fault diagnosis

bolts,

-

and remove the fan and

fluid

drive as an

Heat generated

used depends upon the equipment

pump and

alternator from a pulley on the front

end of the crank-

shaft.

Supplementary belts are used to drive the power steering pump 2 and the air conditioning compressor from a multiple pulley mounted on the crankshaft. With these arrangements, idler pulleys are interposed. Adjustment of the drivebelt tension is carried out by releasing the 3 mounting and adjustment link bolts of the accessory concerned (alternator, pump or compressor), and moving it towards or away from the engine so that the deflection of the belt at the centre point of its

When

is

\

to

^

i

n (6.5 to 8.0

mm).

pump drivebelts, use with an extension inserted into the square hole provided in the pump housing brackets. After installing a new belt, recheck the tension after about 15 5 minutes of engine running, then again after about 250 miles of vehicle usage.

4 a

\

adjusting

power

steering or engine air

in drive ratchet

cooling system

Symptom

radiator

water

longest run

Disconnect the fusible link and partially drain the cooling system. Disconnect the drag link (Chapter 1 1 ), and remove the oil filter. Loosen all the drivebelts, and remove the crankshaft pulley. Remove the screws and push the fan shroud back over the water

of drivebelts

installed to the particular vehicle. All vehicles use a belt to drive the

Reason/s

in

engine not being successfully dissipated by

Insufficient

water

in

cooling system

Drivebelt slipping (accompanied by a shrieking noise on rapid

engine acceleration) Radiator core blocked or radiator Bottom water hose collapsed

grille restricted

Chapter 2 Cooling system

57

Thermostat not opening properly Ignition advance and retard incorrectly set (accompanied by loss of power and perhaps misfiring) Carburetor incorrectly adjusted (mixture too lean) Exhaust system partially blocked Oil level in oil pan too low Blown cylinder head gasket (water/steam being forced the radiator overflow pipe under pressure) Engine not yet run-in Brakes binding

Too much heat being dissipated by

Leaks

in

system

radiator

Thermostat jammed open Incorrect grade of thermostat opening of valve Thermostat missing

fitted

down

allowing premature

Loose clips on water hoses

Top or bottom water hoses perished and

leaking

Radiator core leaking Thermostat gasket leaking Pressure cap spring worn or seal ineffective Blown cylinder head gasket (pressure in system forcing water/steam down overflow pipe) Cylinder wall or head cracked

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems Contents Air cleaner

-

Air Injection

removal, cleaning and installation System - description and maintenance

Carburetor - removal and installation Carburetor (Carter BBD) - adjustments Carburetor (Carter BBD) - servicing Carburetor (Carter BBS) - adjustments Carburetor (Carter BBS) - servicing Carburetor (Holley dual venturi) - adjustments Carburetor (Holley dual venturi) - servicing Carburetor (Holley 1920) - adjustments Carburetor (Holley 1920) - servicing Carburetor (Holley 1945) - adjustments Carburetor (Holley 1945) - servicing Carburetor (Thermo-Quad) - adjustments Carburetor (Thermo-Quad) - servicing Catalytic converter - description

2

23

.

.

.

.

Emission control systems Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system

8 14 13 12

and maintenance

11

maintenance

16 15

Fuel

filter -

Fuel

10 9 18

Fuel

pump pump

General description

17

Heated

20

22 -

Fault diagnosis

-

emission control system

Fault diagnosis

-

fuel

system

Fuel evaporative control system

Fuel tank

description

-

description and

26 description and testing

6 4

removal and installation removal and installation

5 7

renewal -

-

-

inlet air

1

system

-

serviceability

Manifolds and exhaust systems Spark Advance Control (OSAC)

19

Orifice

27

maintenance and testing

check -

Rear mounted fuel tank, mechanical fuel

24

pump and downdraft

carburetor

Fuel tank capacity (approx.) Optional (some models)

22 US 36 US

Fuel type requirement models Other models

Unleaded gasoline 91 octane (RON)

Fuel pump 1971/74 models

Carter

1975models

Carter Carter

Standard

Catalytic converter

1976models

gal (83 litres) gal

(136

litres)

MS 4588SA (6-cyl engine) MS 4587SA (8-cyl engine) MS 4588 OR Airtex RD 564 (6-cyl engine) Carter MS 4587SA (8-cyl engine) Carter MS 4588SA (6-cyl engine) Carter MS 6449 (3 8, 360 cu in engine) Carter MS 6775 (400. 440cu in engine) Carter MS 677 S (6-cyl engine) Carter MS 6866S (3 8, 360 cu in engine) Carter MS 6775S (400, 440 cu in engine) 1

1977 models

1

1

3 21

description,

Specifications

Fuel system type

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-*-WING NUT

CLEANER

HOUSING AIR

CLEANER

HOUSING GASKET GASKET

CLAMP

CONNECTOR

CONNECTOR

CARBURETOR

CARBURETOR

AIR HEATER

AIR HEATER

EXHAUST PIPE

SS

Fig. 3.3 Typical air cleaner

2

Air cleaner

- removal, cleaning and

225

FRONT arrangements on

later

ENGINE

models

installation

1 On all models, the air cleaner element is contained in a pancaketype housing. 2 To remove the element, unscrew the wing nut and cover, then lift out the element and outer wrapper (where applicable) (photo). 3 To clean the element, use compressed air and blow through from

the inside to the outside

4

Wash

the outer wrapper in kerosene then shake it dry. If a spongepolyurethane outer wrapper is used, it should be saturated with 10W-30 engine oil before being installed. To remove the housing, disconnect the air cleaner vacuum hose 5 from the carburetor, and the flexible air cleaner to carburetor air heater connector. Disconnect the breather hose and lift the air cleaner off. Wipe the housing clean. If solvent is used, make sure that it 6 doesn't get into the sensor. 7 Installation of the housing and element is the reverse of the removal procedure. like

3

Heated

inlet air

system - serviceability check

1 Most models in the range have a heated inlet air system. If there's any doubt about the serviceability of the system, first check all the

2.2 Air cleaner element

hoses.

and an engine compartment temperature of 100°F, the valve plate in the intake spout of the cleaner should be closed against airflow from fresh air sources, but open to admit heated air from the exhaust manifold. Use a mirror to check this. 3 Warm the engine to normal operating temperature and let it idle; the valve plate should now be closed against the flow of heated air.

2

With

a cold engine

4

Failure of the valve plate to operate correctly during these tests

Drill through the vacuum unit lock tab nearest the intake spout. the unit slightly and disengage it from the rear edge; slide it to the right-hand side and unhook the operating rod from the valve plate. Check that the valve plate operates correctly and freely. 7 Installation of the vacuum unit is the reverse of the removal proceS dure, with pop rivets or sheet metal screws being used to hold it in

will

mean

place.

5

To remove the vacuum

less than

(Section

that the sensor or the

2).

vacuum

unit, first

lift

unit

the

is

air

faulty.

cleaner from the engine

6

Lift

9 To remove the sensor, disconnect the vacuum hoses from it and pry off the retaining clips. Remove the sensor and gasket. The clips and

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

66

6.1 Fuel in-line filter

may

the gasket

new

be discarded as

1

Installation of the sensor

4

Fuel

1

new components

are supplied with the

sensor.

The

pump

the reverse of the removal procedure.

- description and testing

pump on

fuel

is

all

models

is

operated by an eccentric lobe on

the camshaft.

2

None

pumps can be dismantled for repair and, new pump should be installed.

of the

in

the event

of a fault developing, a

To test a fuel pump, disconnect the fuel inlet pipe from the carburetor and insert the end of the pipe into a container. 4 Disconnect the primary lead from the negative terminal of the igni3

on the Well defined spurts of fuel should be seen being ejected from the disconnected pipe into the container.

tion coil to prevent the engine firing, then spin the engine starter.

GASKET

BLOCK

pump

- removal and installation

5

Fuel

1

Disconnect the

ENGINE-

fuel pipe

from the

pump and

plug the open end of

the inlet pipe.

Unscrew and remove the securing nuts and their washers, and 2 withdraw the pump. Note the exact number of gaskets used; also whether an insulating packing piece is fitted. A similar pack of new gaskets must be used when installing. 3 Note that on 400 440 cu in engines, there's a pushrod for operating the pump; before the pushrod can be removed, the screwed plug has to be removed. Installation of the fuel pump is the reverse of the removal proce4 dure, but check for fuel leaks afterwards.

PUSH ROD ACCESS HOLE

PLUG

\ MOUNTING BOLTS

PUSH ROD

Fuel 1

Renew

FRONT

2

cu

filter

the

filter

filter.

the new filter, making sure that the arrow marked on it the direction of the fuel flow (towards the carburetor). Check for fuel leaks afterwards. Install in

pumps 7

A 225

which is used on all models, at the Maintenance Section (photo). by disconnecting the securing clips and then

the in-line fuel

Remove

discard the

3

(2)

3.4 Typical fuel

- renewal

intervals stated in the Routine

faces

Fig.

filter

Fuel tank - removal and installation

in

B 318/360 cu C 400/440 cu

in in

1 If possible, reduce the contents of the fuel tank to a minimum by normal usage. Disconnect the battery ground cable and remove the filler tank 2

1

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

67

BOWL VENT VALVE OPERATING LEVER

BOWL VENT VALVE

ECONOMIZER COVER

FUEL BOWL VENT TUBE

FAST IDLE CAM

FUEL BOWL

VENTURI VACUUr FITTING (EGR

GENERAL SYSTEIV CHOKE

CANISTER PURGE TUBE

ACCELERATOR PUMP SHAFT

VACUUM DIAPHRAGM FAST IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW

AIR CLEANER

VACUUM TUBE

IDLE MIXTURE

DISTRIBUTOR SCREW VACUUM TUBE CLOSED CRANKCASE

VENT TUBE

FITTING

CURB IDLE ADJUSTING

Fig.

SCREW

3.5 Holley

1

920 carburetor - typical

cap.

3

new gaskets are used and that they're correctly installed with the holes matched to the carburetor and manifold. Check for fuel leaks after the engine has been started and, where applicable, make the necessary adjustments. that

If

there's

still

fuel in the tank, either

pump

out the contents or

remove the

fuel line and syphon out the contents. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it for access to the tank. 5 Disconnect the fuel tank gauge unit lead and ground strap. Disconnect the fuel and vent hoses (the illustrations show typical 6 arrangement). Using a jack with a wood-block placed on the jack head, support 7

4

the weight of the fuel tank.

9 1

Disconnect the J-bolts, and move the retaining straps rearward so that the tank can be lowered. Feed the vent hose(s) and filler tube vent hose through the grommets in the frame as the tank is being lowered. If the tank gauge unit is to be removed, it can be unscrewed using 9 a suitable wrench. 1 Installation is basically the reverse of the removal procedure. Make sure that any seals, grommets, hoses, etc are in good condition, and check for fuel leaks after the tank has been refilled.

8

Carburetor Holley

1

(

920) - servicing

With the carburetor removed from the

external

vehicle, clean

away

all

dirt.

Remove the vacuum hose which runs between the throttle body and the vacuum diaphragm. Remove the choke vacuum diaphragm, link and bracket assembly. 3 As the bracket is removed, the fuel bowl vent valve rod and spring will 2

be ejected.

4

Unscrew and remove the

5

Extract

fuel inlet needle valve and seat. economizer securing screws and remove the economizer cover, the diaphragm and diaphragm rod from the car-

the

buretor.

8

Carburetor - removal and installation

NOTE The information given in this Section is not specific to any one model, and there may be slight differences in the procedure on some :

vehicles. 1

2

With the engine

Remove Remove

cold, first disconnect the battery

ground cable.

Extract the fuel bowl securing screws, and remove the bowl, baffle 6 and gasket. Discard the gasket and extract the float bumper spring. 7 Extract the economizer body screws and withdraw the economizer

body.

8 9 and 10

Extract the

main

Extract the

pump

disengage the

jet

from the economizer body.

lever retaining clip; slide the lever

from the

from the pivot

cleaner (Section 2). the fuel tank cap. 3 With a container beneath the carburetor fuel inlet, disconnect the 4 fuel line. Use two wrenches to avoid twisting the fuel line. Disconnect the throttle and choke linkages, making a note of how 5

the fast idle cam rod. 1 Note the position of the limiter cap, then remove it and count the exact number of turns to just bottom the idle mixture screw. Remove

they're connected.

the screw and spring.

6 Disconnect the vacuum hoses, making a note of where they're connected.

1 2 Remove the fast idle and curb idle speed screws and spring. 13 Don't dismantle the throttle valve plate or choke valve plate and their spindles, unless essential to renew worn components. 1 4 Clean and inspect all components and renew any that are worn. 1 5 Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure, but

the

air

Remove the carburetor mounting bolts or nuts, and carefully lift 7 the carburetor away to avoid spilling the fuel. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, but make sure 8

link

Extract the fast idle

throttle lever.

cam screw; remove

the

cam and disengage

68

METERING BLOCK

PUMP DIAPHRAGM DIAPHRAGM STEM

POWER

JET

VALVE LEVER Fig. 3.7

MAIN

Accelerator

pump

parts (Holley

1

920)

JET' Fig.

3.6

Removing metering block (Holley 1920)

FLOAT

GAUGE LOCATION

AGAINST CAST RIB

GAUGE Fig.

3.8 Adjusting float level (Holley 1920)

GAUGE

BEND FAST IDLE

CAM

GAUGE

LINK

FOR ADJUSTMENT LIGHT CLOSING PRESSURE ON CHOKE LEVER

LIGHT CLOSING PRESSURE ON CHOKE LEVER

FAST IDLE

'V

ADJUSTING SCREW


C

METERING^

horn (BBS) - typical

Fig. 3.1 7

OF WELL) Removing step-up piston (BBS) -

typical

or out.

IDLE ORIFICE TUBE 11

Carburetor (Carter BBS) - servicing

1

With the carburetor removed from the

external

vehicle, clean

away

all

dirt.

Extract the clip and disconnect the accelerator pump rod. 2 Disconnect the vacuum pipe which runs between the carburetor 3 body and the vacuum diaphragm. 4 Extract the clip from the choke operating link, then disengage the link from the diaphragm rod and choke lever. Remove the vacuum diaphragm and bracket. 5 6 Remove the air horn screws (and the fast idle solenoid, if applicable), then lift the air horn away, disengaging the fast idle cam link from the fast idle cam. Discard the air horn gasket. 7 Disengage the accelerator pump plunger from the rocker arm by pushing the plunger upwards and sliding the plunger shaft off the hook. Slide the plunger out of the air horn and remove the fuel bowl vent valve, spring seat and spring If the original plunger is to be used again store it in some clean fuel or kerosene to prevent it from drying

MAIN METERING JET

out.

Remove the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and gasket from the carburetor body. Lift out the float pivot retainer, then remove the floats and pivot 9 8

pin.

10 Remove the step-up piston screw, and slide the piston and rod from the well. Extract the spring and the gasket from the bottom of the

Fig.

3.18 Removing main metering

jet

(BBS) -

typical

ACCELERATOR PUMP INLET CHECK BALL (AT BOTTOM OF CYL)

well.

Remove the main metering jet and gasket. 12 Unscrew and remove the idle orifice tube. 13 Invert the carburetor and catch the accelerator pump balls as they drop from their seats. 14 Unscrew and remove the accelerator pump jet plug and the jet. 1 5 Note the position of the limiter cap, then remove it and count the exact number of turns to just bottom the idle mixture screw. Remove 1

DISCHARGE PASSAGE CHECK BALL

the screw and spring.

16 Don't dismantle the valve plates and spindles, unless essential to renew worn components. 17 Clean and inspect all components, and renew any that are worn. 18 Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure, but always use new gaskets. During reassembly, measure the float setting (paragraphs 9 and 20), and reset the idle mixture screw to its original

DISCHARGE PASSAGE

?7\C>

1

On

completion, but before installation, check the accelerator 21 through 23), bowl vent valve adjustment (where applicable - paragraph 24 and 25) and fast idle cam position adjustment (paragraph 26). After installation, check the vacuum kick position.

pump

travel (paragraph

Fig.

3.19

Pump check

balls

(BBS) -typical

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

72

FLOAT FULCRUM PIN RETAINER

STRAIGHT EDGE

AIR CLEANER

GAUGE TO JUST TOUCH FLOATS AT CROWN

MOUNTING SURFACE

MAIN BODY

NVERTED Fig.

TOP OF ACCELERATOR PUMP SHAFT

3.20 Float setting (BBS) -typical

LIGHT CLOSING PRESSURE AGAINST CHOKE LEVER

Fig.

3.21 Accelerator

pump travel (BBS)

- typical

FAST IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTING SCREW

ON SECOND HIGHEST STEP

OF

CAM

FAST DLE

CAM

BEND THROTTLE LEVER

TANG

TO ADJUST

Fig. Fig.

adjustment, choke unloader, curb idle speed, fast idle speed, curb idle speed solenoid adjustment and, if necessary, the float setting (Section 12).

Float setting 19 With the fuel inlet valve and floats assembled to the carburetor, invert the main body so that the weight of the floats is on the valve. Press the retainer to fully seat the float pivot pin. the distance between the face of the rim of the float bowl and the highest point of each float. This should be as given in the Specifications. If necessary, bend the lip of the float lever but remove the float first or the flexible tip of the needle valve may be deformed.

20 Now measure

Accelerator pump travel 2 Make sure that the accelerator pump

rod is in the outer hole of the closed (curb idle position). 22 With a straight edge across the air cleaner mounting surface, check for a dimension of \ in (8 mm) from the lower edge of the straight edge to the top of the accelerator pump plunger. 23 If necessary, bend the acclerator pump rod to obtain the correct 1

throttle lever

travel

3.23 Fast

idle

speed adjustment (BBS) - typical

3.22 Choke unloader adjustment (BBS) - typical

and the

throttle

is

Bowl

vent valve (where applicable) 24 With the throttle valve in the curb

idle position, measure the distance from the top of the casting to the top of the bowl vent valve stem, and compare it with that specified. 25 If necessary, bend the lower tang on the bowl vent valve operating lever at the pivot to obtain the correct opening.

Fast idle cam position adjustment 26 Refer to paragraph 1 7 of Section 9. 12 Carburetor (Carter BBS) - adjustments

Vacuum 1

kick

Refer to paragraph

1

through 5 of Section 10.

Choke unloader With the engine off. and the air cleaner removed, hold the throttle fully open and insert a gauge rod (eg a drill shank) of the specified size between the upper edge of the choke valve plate and the

2

plate

1

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems horn inner wall. With light pressure on the choke valve plate, there should be slight 3 drag as the gauge is withdrawn. If adjustment is needed, bend the unloader tang on the throttle lever.

73

air

IDLE

SPEED SOLENOID

ADJUSTING SCREW

.

speed (1 973 models)

Curb

idle Refer to paragraph 6 through 10 of Section 10. but note that for 1974 models it's necessary to obtain the correct CO content of the exhaust gas. This information is on the Vehicle Emission Control

4

Information label

in

the engine compartment.

Fast idle speed 5

Refer to paragraph 11 through 14 of Section 10.

Curb

idle

speed solenoid (1 974 models)

Having set the curb idle and fast idle speed, back off the idle speed 6 adjusting screw until it is off the stop, then readjust the idle speed by screwing the curb idle solenoid adjusting screw in or out. in the idle speed adjusting screw until it just contacts the back it off one complete turn. 8 With the engine still running, disconnect the solenoid wire and check that the engine speed drops noticeably. Reconnect the solenoid wire, open the throttle and recheck that 9 the curb idle speed is again obtained.

7

Screw

stop, then

Float setting (on vehicle) 10 Remove the accelerator pump operating rod, then remove the two long and two short air horn attaching screws. Install the two short screws where the long screws were installed to secure the main body Fig.

to the throttle body.

3.24 Curb

idle

speed solenoid adjustment (BBS)

Remove

the remaining air horn screw, then tilt the air horn to disengage the fast idle cam link from the cam. Remove the air horn and gasket. 12 Press on the fulcrum pin retainer to seat the float fulcrum pin. 1

There should be enough fuel to raise the float lip against the needle. If necessary, depress the float to allow some more fuel in. 13 With the float lip contacting the needle, there should be \ in from

ACCELERATOR PUMP SHAFT CLOSED BOWL VENT VALVE HOUSING CHOKE VALVE

CHOKE VALVE

CHOKE OPERATING

LINK

CHOKE LEVER

FAST IDLE

CONNECTING ROD CHOKE VACUUM ACTUATOR HOSE FAST IDLE

CAM

FAST IDLE

ADJUSTING SCREW

CURB IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW

AIR CLEANER

VACUUM

TUBE

TO PORTED EGR SYSTEM CANISTER PURGE PORT

CLOSED CRANKCASE VACUUM TUBE

CHOKE UNLOADER TANG Fig.

3.25 Carter

BBD

carburetor (1971/73) -typical

TO DISTRIBUTOR (OSAC) VALVE

CHOKE VACUUM ACTUATOR

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

74

ACCELERATOR PUMP LEVER

ENRICHMENT DIAPHRAGM

IDLE

VENTURI EGR SYSTEM FAST

THROTTLE POSITION

SOLENOID CURB

IDLE

ADJUSTMENT SCREW

FAST IDLE

ADJUSTING SCREW

POSITIVE THROTTLE

RETURN SPRING

TO VAPOR CANISTER

CHOKE UNLOADER TANG

PURGE PORT

TO AIR PUMP DIVERTER VALVE IF SO EQUIPPED IDLE

THROTTLE POSITION

MIXTURE

ADJUSTING

SCREWS

SOLENOID CONNECTOR

TO AIR CLEANER HEATED INLET AIR SYSTEM

(2)

Fig.

3.26 Carter

BBD

carburetor (1974) - typical for later types

DIAPHRAGM

AND GASKET SPRING

COVER

MOUNTING SCREWS (3)

THROTTLE POSITION

SOLENOID Fig.

3.27

Vacuum

throttle positioner

the surface of the bowl with the gasket

(BBD) -

removed

VALVE

typical

to the

crown

Fig.

of the

necessary, bend the float lip to achieve this, but make sure that remains perpendicular to the needle. Reassemble the air horn and linkage on completion.

14

If

the

lip

1

5

3

4

floats at the center.

the 5

3.28 Idle enrichment valve assembly (BBD) - typical

Where applicable, remove the vacuum throttle positioner. Where applicable, remove the idle enrichment vacuum diaphragm, vacuum nipple and diaphragm return spring (3 screws). Remove the retaining clip, and take off the accelerator pump arm

link.

6

Where

applicable,

remove the step-up piston cover

plate

and

gasket.

13 Carburetor (Carter BB) - servicing

7

arm 1

With the carburetor removed from the

external

2

vehicle, clean

dirt.

Where

applicable,

away

al

Remove

the screws

throttle position solenoid.

locks, then slide the accelerator

out the rods (on early carburetors, the air horn Lift

vacuum

pump

piston and step-up

must be removed paragraph 1 1 Remove the main body-to-choke vacuum hose. 8 ).

remove the

and

lever out of the air horn.

first

-

1

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

75

FLOAT FULCRUM PIN RETAINER

STEP- UP

PISTON

FUEL INLET SEAT Fig.

INLET NEEDLE

3.30 Removing

float

assembly (BBD) -

typical

METERING RODS Fig.

3.29 Removing step-up piston (BBD) -typical

DISCHARGE CHECK BALL (SMALL) 5/32

fit

INCH

INTAKE CHECK BALL (LARGE) 3/16

INCH

MAIN METERING JET

Fig.

3.31

Removing main metering

jets

(BBD) -typical Fig.

1

Remove Remove Remove

12

Invert the air horn,

9 10

the choke diaphragm, linkage and bracket. the fast idle cam and linkage. the screws and take off the air horn.

compress the accelerator pump

drive spring

and remove the S-link so that the pump can be removed. 1 3 Remove the fuel needle valve, seat and gasket. 14 Remove the retainer and baffle, and lift out the floats and fulcrum pin.

15 Remove the main metering jets. 16 Remove the venturi cluster and gaskets, but don't remove the orifice tubes or main vent tubes. 1 7 Invert the carburetor and drop out the pump discharge and intake

3.32

Pump check

balls

(BBD) -typical

check balls. 18 Note the positions of the limiter caps, then remove them and count the exact number of turns to just bottom the idle mixture screws. Remove the screws and springs. 19 Remove the screws and separate the throttle body from the main body. 20 Don't dismantle the valve plates and spindles, unless essential to

renew worn parts. Clean and inspect all components, and renew any that are worn. 1 22 Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure, but always use new gaskets. During reassembly, measure the float setting (paragraph 23 through 25) and reset the idle mixture screws to their 2

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

76

STEP-UP PISTON FULLY DEPRESSED

ADJUSTING SCREW

STEP- UP

PISTON

METERING RODS

ROD Fig.

3.33 Step up piston adjustment (BBD) -typical for 1974/75

LIFTER

LOCK SCREW LIGHT PRESSURE

ON ROD TOP OF

Fig.

LIFTER

TAB

3.34 Checking step-up piston (BBD) - typical

ACCERATOR PUMP ROD

GAUGE LIGHT CLOSING PRESSURE ON CHOKE LEVER

APPLY

15

INCHES

OF VACUUM ON DIAPHRAM

BEND HERE TO ADJUST

BEND HERE

TO VACU UM SOURCE Fig. Fig.

3.35 Checking accelerator

pump

STEM FULLY DEPRESSED

3.36

Vacuum

kick adjustment

(BBD) -typical

stroke (BBD) - later models

On completion, but before installation, check the vacuum step-up position adjustment (paragraph 26 through 29 - NOT 1971/73 models), accelerator pump adjustment (paragraph 31 through 33) and the fast idle cam adjustment (paragraph 34 through original positions.

36). After installation, carry out the adjustments listed in Section 14.

piston head to obtain the specified step-up piston gap. 27 With the step-up piston assembly correctly installed, back-off the

curb

idle

screw to close the

throttles,

Note the number of turns to

assist with resetting.

depress the step-Up piston while applying moderate pressure lifter tab, then tighten the rod lifter lock screw. 29 Release the piston and rod lifter, then return the curb idle screw to the original position (if known).

28

Fully

to the rod

Float setting 23 With the fuel inlet valve and floats assembled to the carburetor, invert the main body so that the weight of the floats is on the valve. 24 Now measure the distance from the surface of the fuel bowl to the crown of each float at its center, and check this against the specified dimension. 25 If adjustment is needed, bend the lip of the float, but take care that the needle is not compressed against the synthetic rubber tip or this may be distorted.

Vacuum step-up piston adjustment (1974 onwards) 26 On 1974/75 models use an Allen key to adjust the screw

in

the

A ccelerator pump 30 On 1971/73 carburetors, check that the pump operating rod is in the medium stroke hole in the throttle lever. On other carburetors, the accelerator pump S-link must be in the outer hole of the pump arm if there is more than one hole. 31 Back-off the curb idle screw until it just contacts the stop, then back-off two more turns. 32 Measure the height from the surface of the air horn to the top of the accelerator pump shaft and compare the dimension with that

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

FAST IDLE

77

ADJUSTMENT LOCK NUT

CAM

ADJUSTING SCREW ON

SECOND HIGHEST STEP

ON CAM

ADJUSTING SCREW

CHOKE

WIDE OPEN POSITION

IN

3.37 Fast

Fig.

idle

speed adjustment (BBD) -typical

ACTUATING TAB Fig.

3.38 Dashpot adjustment (BBD) - typical

specified for the particular carburetor.

33 If adjustment is needed, bend the operating rod at the lower angle (1971/73 carburetors), or loosen the pump arm adjusting lock screw and rotate the sleeve, then tighten the screw.

Fast idle cam position 34 With the fast idle speed

>

adjusting screw contacting the second highest step of the fast idle cam, move the choke valve towards the closed position using light finger pressure on the choke shaft lever.

gauge rod of the specified size (eg a drill shank) between the choke valve and air horn wall, there should be slight drag as the rod is removed if adjustment is correct. 36 To adjust, bend the fast idle connector rod as necessary.

35 Using

a

J&VmM)

TO VACUUM SOURCE

14 Carburetor (Carter BBD) -adjustments

Vacuum 1

kick

Refer to paragraph

1

through 5 of Section

1

0.

Choke unloader 2

Refer to paragraphs 2 and 3 of Section 12.

speed (except 1977 models

ADJUSTMENT LOCKNUT

49

Curb

idle

3

possible, allow the vehicle to soak at the prevailing

If

temperature for about one hour. 4 Start the engine and run it

becomes hot

(five

in

for

States) ambient

VACUUM THROTTLE POSITIONER

Neutral until the radiator top tank

to ten minutes).

Without delay, disconnect and plug the vacuum hose to the distributor. Where applicable, disconnect and plug the vacuum hose to the vacuum transducer on the air cleaner. Where applicable, disconnect and plug the engine side of the air 6 5

Fig.

339 Vacuum throttle

positioner

(BBD) -

typical

pump 7

supply tube. Refer to the procedure

Any adjustment

in paragraph 6 through 10 of Section 10. screws must be done by equal increments always open by the same amount.

to mixture

so that each screw

is

used, but don't forget that this

idle speed (1977 models for 49 States) All 1977 models use a new procedure for setting the curb idle 8 speed, and this requires a propane gas cylinder, metering valve and associated equipment. 9 To carry out the adjustment, it will be necessary for you to contact a Chrysler dealer who will be suitably equipped for the job. 10 In order to get the vehicle in a reasonable state of tune so that it

in paragraph 3 through 7 can be not completely satisfactory.

can be used, the method described is

Curb

Fast idle speed (pre

1974 models)

and Neutral selected, open the throttle slightly then close the throttle valve until the fast idle screw is on the second highest step of the cam. 12~ Without touching the throttle, start the engine then adjust the fast 1

1

idle

With the engine

screw,

if

off,

necessary, to obtain the specified fast

idle

speed.

78 IDLE

CURB

BOWL

ADJUSTMENT DIAPHRAGM

IDLE

ADJUSTMENT

VENT

Z7

k

\

N TO VAPOR CANISTER

PURGE PORT

CHOKE DIAPHRAGM

IDLE

MIXTURE

TO CRANKCASE PCV VALVE FAST" IDLE

TO

ADJUSTMENT

AIR

CLEANER HEATED INLET AIR SYSTEM

ADJUSTMENT SCREWS (2)

POSITIVE THROTTLE

TO DISTRIBUTOR OSAC VALVE

RETURN ASSEMBLY Fig.

3.40 Holley dual venturi carburetor - typical

ACCELERATOR PUMP PLUNGER

VACUUM

PISTON STEM

BOWL VENT VALVE OPERATING LEVER

SCREW DRIVER

Fig.

3.41

Removing bowl vent operating

lever (Holley dual venturi

- typical

Fig.

3.42 Removing

air

horn (Holley dual venturi) - typical

3

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems After each adjustment, reposition the fast idle screw on the 1 provide the correct throttle closing torque.

cam

79

to

Fast idle spe ed (1974 on ward)) 14 Remove the air cleaner and disconnect

the vacuum hoses from the carburetor leading to the heated air control and the orifice Spark Advance Control (OSAC) valve. If the vehicle isn't equipped with OSAC, disconnect the hose leading directly to the distributor and the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) hose, and cap all the vacuum ports at the carburetor. 15 With the engine

OFF and

in

Neutral,

open the

throttle

and close

the choke.

ACCELERATOR PUMP SHAFT

16 Close the throttle to place the fast idle screw on the highest step, then move the fast idle cam until the screw drops to the second highest step. Start the engine, then adjust the fast idle screw,

17

if

necessary, to

obtain the specified fast idle speed. 18 After each adjustment, reposition the fast idle screw on the provide the correct throttle closing torque.

cam

to

Fig.

Dashpot (manual transmission models) 9 Refer to paragraph 1 7 through 1 9 of Section speed should stabilize at 2500 rpm. 1

Idle

enrichment valve (1975 onward) made if a separate

Note: This check can only be

ACCELERATOR PUMP PLUNGER STEM

1

0, but

3.43

Removing accelerator pump plunger (Holley dual venturi) - typical

note that the

source of vacuum

is

available.

20

Warm

the engine to normal operating temperature, then

Don

remove

plug any of the connections. 21 Disconnect the hose to the idle enrichment system at the plastic connector. 22 Start the engine and place the fast idle speed screw on the the air cleaner.

t

FLOAT

slowest speed step of the fast idle cam. 23 Connect about three feet of plastic hose to the enrichment diaphragm hose using a suitable connector. 24 Applying vacuum to the other end of the plastic hose, start the engine and check whether the engine speed can be changed by apply-

FULCRUM

PIN

and releasing vacuum. If this doesn't happen, plug the air inlet passage with a finger and repeat the test. If the speed can now be controlled, the diaphragm is leaking or the air valve is stuck open. Check and rectify as necessary.

ing

25

Throttle position solenoid (1 97 5*models) 26 Connect a tachometer, then start the engine and disconnect the throttle position solenoid wire.

27 Connect, battery voltage direct to the solenoid then raise the engine speed to make sure that the solenoid is fully extended. The engine speed should stabilize at 500 + 50 rpm; adjust to this speed if 1

necessary.

28 Reconnect the solenoid wire then slowly accelerate the engine from idle. As the speed passes 2000 rpm (approx), the solenoid stem should extend positively and maintain the extended position. 29 Check that as the engine speed is decelerated, the solenoid deenergizes at or before 1800 rpm. If this does not occur, the electronic speed switch is faulty. throttle positioner (1 975 onward) and allow it to run with Neutral selected, then accelerate the engine to above 2000 rpm. Check that the vacuum positioner unit operates and can stand a hand-applied load in the operating position. 31 Accelerate the engine speed to 2500 rpm, then loosen the positioner adjustment locknut and rotate the complete vacuum positioner assembly until it just contacts the throttle lever. 32 Release the throttle, then slowly adjust the positioner to decrease the engine speed until a sudden drop in speed occurs (over 1 000 rpm). At this point, continue adjusting the vacuum positioner \ additional turn in the decreasing direction. 33 Accelerate the engine to 2500 rpm (approx), and release the throttle, checking that the engine idle speed returns to normal.

Vacuum 30

1

1

5

Start the engine

Carburetor (Holley dual venturi) - servicing

With the carburetor removed from the

external dirt

vehicle, clean

away

all

Fig.

2

3.44 Removing float and needle (Holley dual venturi) - typical

Where

applicable,

unscrew the

air

cleaner bolt from the car-

buretor. applicable, remove the idle enrichment diaphragm. Detach the accelerator pump rocker arm from the pump shaft, then mark on the arm which slot the pump rod locates in. Disengage the pump rod from the slot, and from the hole in the throttle lever. Remove the choke lever from the choke shaft, then disengage the 5 fast idle connector rod from the lever and fast idle cam. Remove the choke diaphragm hose from the tube fitting, then 6

3

4

Where

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

80

POWER VALVE

SPECIAL

TOOL RETAINING RING

VACUUM

PISTON

-

STEM FULLY DEPRESSED

MAIN METERING

MAIN METERING Fig. Fig.

JET 3.46 Removing main metering jets (Holley dual venturi) -

3.45 Removing vacuum piston (Holley dual venturi) - typical

typical

GAUGE OR

FLOAT

DRILL

CHECK NEEDLE

AIR

HORN

INVERTED Fig.

Fig.

3.47 Accelerator

pump

—'

FLOAT STOP

3.48 Checking float setting (Holley dual venturi) - typical

discharge check needle (Holley dual

venturi) - typical

detach the choke diaphragm and mounting bracket. Disengage the choke operating link from the slot in the lever. 7 Where applicable, remove the E-clip and slide the bowl vent valve operating lever off the stub shaft. Don't lose the lever spring. 8 Remove the eight screws, then lift the air horn straight up and off the main body, taking care not to bend the main well tubes. Push up on the bottom of the accelerator pump plunger, then tilt it 9 slightly toward the center and slide it off the pump shaft.

10 Slide the pump shaft out of the air horn. Remove the fuel inlet fitting and filter. 1 2 Invert the air horn and remove the fuel baffle retaining screw. 13 Slide out the float fulcrum pin, then remove the float. Invert the horn and collect the fuel inlet needle. 1 1

4 Unscrew the fuel inlet needle valve seat and gasket. 5 Remove and discard the air horn gasket. 16 Carefully remove the staking, then depress the vacuum piston and allow it to snap up against the retaining washer to remove it. 17 Remove the main metering jets followed by the power valve 1 1

assembly. 18 Invert the main body and collect the accelerator pump discharge check needle from the discharge passage. 19 Remove the screws and separate the throttle body from the main body. Discard the gasket.

20 Remove air

the E-clip and slide the fast idle

cam

off the shaft.

21 Note the positions of the limiter caps, then remove them and count the exact number of turns to just bottom the idle mixture screws.

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

CLOSING

LIGHT

GAUGE

PRESSURE

>

r

jJ2^ THROTTLE OPEN

4

POSITION TH

LEVER TO

Fig.

)\^

OT =2

BEND ACCELERATOR ROD FOR ADJUSTMENT

BEND

ON

81

3.49 Choke unloader adjustment (Holley dual venturi) -

Fig.

3.50 Accelerator

pump adjustment

(Holley dual venturi)

typical

typical

GAUGE THROTTLE AT

CURB

IDLE

VACUUM &/ THOTTLE POSITIONER

POSITIONER

BOWL VENT OPERATING

Fig.

3.51

LEVER

BEND TANG HERE FOR ADJUSTMENT

Bowl vent valve adjustment (Holley dual

venturi)

ADJUSTMENT

Fig.

3.52

Vacuum

throttle positioner (Holley dual venturi)

- typical

typical

Remove

the screws and springs.

Float setting 25 With the float

vacuum piston, the retaining washer must be staked in place. Make sure that the accelerator pump rod is installed in the correct slot. Measure the float setting (paragraph 25 through 28), and reset the idle

correctly installed, invert the air horn so that the holds the needle on its seat. 26 Measure the clearance between the top of the float and the float stop, and compare with the specified dimension. 27 If adjustment is needed bend the float adjusting tab. 28 Invert the air horn and allow the float to hang down. The bottom edge of the float should be parallel to underside of the air horn. If necessary, bend the tang on the float arm to achieve this.

mixture screws to their original positions. On completion, but before check the fast idle cam position adjustment (paragraph 29). After installation, carry out the adjustments listed in Section 1 6.

Fast idle cam position 29 Refer to paragraph 34 through 36

22 Don't dismantle the valve plates and spindles, unless essential to renew worn parts. 23 Clean and inspect all components, and renew any that are worn. 24 Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure, but always use

new

gaskets. During reassembly, note that after installing

the

installation,

float

of Section 13.

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

82

TO AIR CLEANER HEATED INLET AIR SYSTEM

ENRICHMENT DIAPHRAGM

IDLE

CHOKE LEVER ACCELERATOR PUMP OPERATING ARM

FAST IDLE

CAM

THROTTLE POSITION SOLENOID

TO EGR

VACUUM AMPLIFIER

X

.POSITIVE THROTTLE RETURN

ASSEMBLY

TO CHARCOAL

THROTTLE POSITION

SOLENOID ADJUSTMENT

TO CRANKCASE (PCV) VALVE

CANISTER PURGE PORT

CURB

IDLE

ADJUSTMENT IDLE

FAST IDLE

MIXTURE

ADJUSTMENT

ADJUSTMENT

JO DISTRIBUTOR (OSAC) VALVE

CHOKE DIAPHRAGM Fig.

3.53 Holley 1945 carburetor -typical

ACCELERATOR PUMP ASSEMBLY

PUMP ROD RETAINER

ACCELERATOR

PUMP

LINK Fig.

3.55 Removing accelerator

pump

(Holley 1945) -typical

16 Carburetor (Holley dual venturi) - adjustments POSITIVE THROTTLE

RETURN SPRING ASSEMBLY

Vacuum 1

kick adjustment

Refer to paragraph

1

through 5 of Section 10.

Choke unloader 2 Fig.

Refer to paragraphs 2 and 3 of Section 12.

3.54 Removing positive throttle return spring (Holley 1945)

typical

idle speed (except 1977 models for 49 Refer to paragraph 3 through 7 of Section 1 4.

Curb 3

States)

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

MAIN

83

JET

INSTALLED

LOCATION

MAIN

JET

FLOAT ASSEMBLY

Fig.

3.57 Removing main

jet

(Holley 1945) - typical

NEEDLE AND SEAT ASSEMBLY

CHECK BALL WEIGHT FULCRUM PIN

RETAINER

GASKET Fig.

3.56 Float assembly (Holley 1945) - typical

idle speed (1977 models for 49 States) of Section 1 4. Refer to paragraph 8 through 1

Curb 4

Fast

idle

speed

Refer to paragraph

5

1

1

through

1

3 or

1

4 through

1

8 of Section 14.

ACCELERATOR PUMP DISCHARGE CHFCK BALL

Bowl vent

valve adjustment (where applicable) With the throttle valves at the curb idle setting, measure the gap between the bowl vent valve plunger stem and the operating rod. 9 If adjustment is needed, bend the tang on the pump lever. 8

Idle

enrichment valve (1 977 models) 20 through 25 of Section

Refer to paragraph

1

14.

throttle positioner (1 975 onward) 30 through 33 of Section 14, but note that adjustment is made by means of a screw (Fig. 3.52).

1

1

7

Refer to paragraph

Carburetor Holley (

all

dirt.

Where

remove the throttle position solenoid or vacuum (two screws), and the idle enrichment diaphragm.

applicable,

throttle positioner

pump

discharge check

ball (Holley

1945) -

Detach the

Remove

fast idle

the choke

Disengage the 5

Mark the

is

connected

link

cam retaining clip, fast idle cam and link. vacuum diaphragm, link and bracket assembly.

from the

slot in the

slot in the throttle link in

to

make

sure

that

choke lever. which the accelerator it's

correctly

pump

installed

link

during

reassembly. 6 Remove the positive throttle return spring and pump rocker arm and linkage assembly. Make sure that the spring tension is released before removing the nut and lockwasher.

945) - servicing

With the carburetor removed from the vehicle, clean away

external

2

1

3.58 Accelerator

typical

3 4

Vacuum 11

Fig.

7

Remove

8

Extract the securing

the dashpot (where applicable). screws and lift the fuel bowl cover straight up until the vacuum piston, accelerator pump, main well tube and modulator rod are clear of the main body. If the cover is stuck, tap it off

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

84

FLOAT FULCRUM PIN RETAINER STRAIGHT EDGE

FLOATS TOUCHING

f )Hf Fig.

3.59 Float setting (Holley 1945) -typical

LIGHT CLOSINGSPRESSURE ON CHOKE LEVER Fig.

SCALE BEHIND THROTTLE LEVER

3.60 Fast

idle

cam

position (Holley

1

945) - typical

THROTTLE LEVER IN

CURB

IDLE

POSITION LIGHT

CLOSING

PRESSURE ON CHOKE LEVER

BEND UNLOADER TANG HERE FOR ADJUSTMENT

BEND LINK HERE FOR ADJUSTMENT Fig. 3.61

Accelerator

pump

stroke (Holley 1945) -typical

Fig.

with a plastic-faced mallet. Peel off the old gasket, scraping it away if necessary with a plastic tool not a metal one. Remove the accelerator pump operating rod retaining screw, then 9 rotate the rod and disconnect the pump drive spring and pump assembly. 10 Remove the operating rod from the fuel bowl cover. 11

Extract the

pump

rod grommet.

12 The power vacuum piston assembly retaining ring is staked in position and the staking must be carefully removed with a sharp tool. Remove the piston from the fuel bowl by depressing it, and then releasing it, so it snaps back against its retaining ring. 1 3 Remove the fuel inlet valve from the main carburetor body. 14 Remove the spring retainer from the float pivot pin; extract the pin and the float assembly. 15 Invert the main body and extract the pump discharge ball and

3.62 Choke unloader adjustment (Holley 1945) -typical

weight.

16 Unscrew and remove the main jet. 17 Carefully depress the power valve needle with the screwdriver engages

remove the

in

a screwdriver until the slot of the valve, then unscrew and

and spring. which secure the main carburetor body to the throttle body. Separate the components and discard the gasket. 19 Note the positions of the limiter caps, then remove them and count the exact number of turns to just bottom the idle mixture screws. Remove the screws and springs. 20 Clean and examine all components for wear, and renew any that 1

8

valve, needle

Extract the three screws

require

it.

Obtain

recommended

new gaskets. If the throttle spindle is worn, new or exchange carburetor is obtained.

it's

that a

21 Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure, but always use new gaskets. During reassembly, note that after installing

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems the

vacuum

piston, the retaining ring

sure that the accelerator pump link Measure the float setting (paragraph

must be staked

in

place.

Make

the correct slot. 22 and 23), and reset the idle mixture screws to their original positions. On completion, but before installation, check the fast idle cam position adjustment (paragraph 24). After installation, carry out the adjustments listed in Section 1 8. is

installed

in

Remove

pump jet housing and gasket. and remove the discharge check needle. Remove the bowl cover (10 screws). 9 10 Invert the bowl cover, remove the pins and lift out the float assemblies. Mark the floats with a pencil so that each can be installed 8

in its 1

float,

and hold the pivot pin spring retainer

in

edge across the rims of the bowl and check the gap between the straight edge and the lowest points of the floats which are located furthest from the fuel inlet valve. 23 Bend the float tang if necessary to obtain the specified gap.

Fast idle cam position 24 Refer to paragraph 34 through 36

1

8 Carburetor Hojley

1

(

of Section

1

945) - adjustments

pump link to

through 5 of Section

1

Curb

idle

speed (except 1977 models

idle

speed (1977 models

Refer to paragraph 8 through

5

Remove

for

49

1

pump

plunger and spring; discard the check seat, and store the plunger gasoline to prevent it from drying out. Note Take care not to damage the plunger shaft hole in the bowl cover with the pin punch. in

with hose. 18 Note the positions of the limiter caps, then remove them and count the exact number of turns to just bottom the idle mixture screws.

Remove 19

the screws and springs. Don't remove the throttle shafts.

If they're worn, a replacement body assembly should be obtained. 20 Remove the 0-rings from the main body and discard them.

States)

4.

1

20.

4.

1

Float setting 25 With the floats, needles and needle seats

4.

positions, invert the

Throttle position solenoid (1975 models) 1 Refer to paragraph 26 through 29 of Section 1

26 With

the bowl cover gasket in position, check the height of each from the bowl cover gasket. This should be 1 in for early models with a brass float, and ^ in for models with a plastic float.

27 To 1

4 through

1

8 of Section

1

Dashpot (manual transmission models 1977) Refer to paragraph

9 1

1

7 through

1

isn't

4.

for

adjust, bend the float lever but take care that the contacting the needle during adjustment.

lip

of the lever

1974 and

9 of Section 1 0, but note that for 2500 rpm.

stabilize at

TO VACUUM

/&

throttle positioner (1975 onward) 30 through 33 of Section 1 4.

SOURCE

Refer to paragraph

1

1

1

977 models the speed should

Vacuum

installed in their original

bowl cover.

float

4.

Fast idle speed Refer to paragraph

9

:§'

Carburetor (Thermo-Quad) - servicing

With the carburetor removed from the

external

vehicle, clean

away

Remove

3

Remove

¥

all

\

dirt.

2

that

24 Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure, but always use new O-rings and gaskets. During reassembly, reset the idle mixture screws to their original positions, and measure the float setting (paragraph 25 through 27). On completion, but before installation, carry out the checks and adjustmentsgiven in paragraph 28 onward. After installation, carry out the adjustments listed in Section

States)

of Section

1

49

for

Idle enrichment valve (1975 models) 6 Refer to paragraph 20 through 25 of Section

8

pump rod S-link, then use a pin punch and pump plunger. Catch the intake check seat,

the accelerator

are worn.

Refer to paragraph 3 through 7 of Section

Curb

3

1 Unscrew the primary metering jets. 22 Don't remove the air baffle plate unless absolutely necessary. 23 Clean and inspect/all components for wear, and renew any

0.

Refer to paragraphs 2 and 3 of Section 12.

4

1

carefully drive out the

2 1

Choke un loader 3

Remove

throttle

kick

Refer to paragraph

2

passage tube and the bowl cover gasket.

14 Where applicable, note the position of the bowl vent actuating and arm spring, then remove the clip and take the lever off the operating arm. Remove the grommet seal from the operating arm. Remove the fuel inlet fitting and gasket. 1 5 1 6 Remove the step-up actuating lever from the throttle body. 17 Remove the choke diaphragm and bracket assembly complete

With the throttle in the curb idle position, measure the 1 operating link as shown (Fig. 3.61). If necessary, bend the obtain the specified setting.

Vacuum

1

the needle valves and seats, marking them so that they in their original positions. the secondary metering jets, the plastic accelerator pump

installed

lever

3.

Accelerator pump stroke

2

original position later.

Remove

can be

position with the fingers while inverting the fuel bowl. Place a straight-

the screw and take off the

Invert the carburetor

1

Float setting 22 Reassemble the

85

the retainers and detach the throttle connector rod from the accelerator pump arm and throttle lever. the screw, and disengage the

pump

rod S-link.

Remove

the rod. leaving the S-link connected.

4 Hold the choke countershaft fast idle lever and remove the attaching screw. Disengage the lever, then swing the fast idle connector rod in an arc to disengage it from the fast idle operating lever. Remove the rod retainers and washer holding the choke 5 diaphragm connector rod to the vacuum diaphragm and air valve lever. Remove the retainer, then detach the choke connector rod from 6 the countershaft lever assembly. 7 Remove the cover plate, and take out the step-up piston and assembly complete with step-up rods. Remove the piston spring.

link

VACUUM THROTTLE POSITIONER

Fig. 3. 63

Vacuum

throttle positioner (Holley

1945) - typical

86

BOWL VENT TUBES

BOWL VENT TUBE

TO AIR

SECONDARY AIR VALVE

FAST IDLE SOLENOID

CLEANER HEATED INLET AIR SYSTEMS

FAST IDLE

TO CHARCOAL CANISTER PURGE PORT Fig.

TOCRANKCASE VENT PCV VALVE

CONTROL LEVER

3.64 Carter Thermo-Quad carburetor - typical

MAIN BODY

PIN

PUNCH

Fig.

3.65 Removing accelerator

pump (Thermo-Quad)

- typical

Fig.

3.66 Primary O-rings and metering jets (Thermo-Quad) -

typical

I

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

87

SECONDARY METERING JETS

PLUNGER

SECONDARY

CHECK SEAT

BLEED TUBE

NOT REMOVE

(DO

Fig.

SPRING

3.67 Secondary metering jets (Thermo-Quad) - typical Fig.

3.68 Accelerator

pump (Thermo-Quad) - typical

STEP UP

ACTUATING LEVER STEP UP

CAM

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^ WASHER ^WASHER

CLUTCH ROD'

SCREW

Fig.

—

CLAMP

6.3 Gearshift interlock (A-250)

Fig.

6.4 Holding crossover blade

in

Neutral - typical

Chapter 6 Manual and automatic transmission

122

STEERING

COLUMN GROMMET MUST

BE INSTALLED

SAME DIRECTION AS ROD, LEVER OR SWIVEL (SEE VIEWS A&B) IN

[TYPICAL

GROMMET

INSTALLATION)

2nd-3rd

ROD-FRONT

GROMMET

VIEW A

SWIVEL

2nd-3rd

ROD

TRANSMISSION

CLAMP

Fig. 6.5 Shift linkage

(A-390)

FLOOR SHIFT ASSEMBLY

CROSSOVER ALIGNMENT TOOL,

MAKE FROM '/4"DIA.

2V*"

ROD

LONG

3RD-0 D REVERSE

ROD ROD ADJUSTABLE

DJUSTABLE SWIVEL Fig. 6.6 Shift linkage

SWIVELS adjustment (Overdrive-4) Fig. 6.7

and 2nd/3rd lever 3

Gearshift linkage (A-390) - adjustment

Loosen both shift rod swivels at the transmission. Select Neutral at the transmission (middle detent). Move the shift lever to line up to locating slots in the bottom of the 3 steering column shift housing and bearing housing. Install a suitable 1

2

tool in the slot.

4

Place a screwdriver or suitable tool between the cross-over blade

Removing

at the

floor shift lever

column, so that both lever pins are engaged

by the cross-over blade. Tighten both shift rod swivel bolts, then remove the gearshift 5 housing locating tool. Remove the tool from the cross-over blade at the column, then 6 select each gear in turn to make sure that everything operates smoothly. 7 Make sure that the ignition lock operates only when reverse gear is

selected.

Chapter 6 Manual and automatic transmission

FIRST

123

& SECOND ROD

KNOB ASSEMBLY

GEAR SHIFT CONTROL MECHANISM THIRD

AND

OVERDRIVE ROD

BOOT ASSEMBLY

SWIVEL

SCREW

CLIP

LOCK WASHER REVERSE

(3)

TRANSMISSION EXTENSION

(RUBBER ISOLATED SHIFTER WITH HANDLE RETAINED BY SPRING CLIP) (3)

(2)

ROD Fig. 6.8 Shift linkage (Overdrive-4)

4

Gearshift linkage (Overdrive-4) - adjustment

1

Make up

a suitable tool (Fig. 6.6),

and

install

it

to hold the levers in

the neutral cross-over position.

2

Detach the

shift

rod from the transmission levers (Section

5),

and

the neutral detent positions. 3 Rotate the threaded shift rods to obtain the correct length so that they just enter the transmission levers. Start with the 1 st/2nd shift rod

place the levers

in

if necessary, pull out the clip at the shifter end to allow the rod to be rotated. 4 Install the washers and clips, then remove the aligning tool. 5 Select each gear in turn to make sure that everything operates smoothly.

and,

5

Gearshift linkage (Overdrive-4) - removal and installation

1 Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the screws from the floor pan boot, and slide the boot up 2 and off the shift lever. Using a 0.010 in feeler gauge, release the shift lever internal 3

^

spring clip (Fig. 6.7).

4

Remove

the retaining clips, washers and control rods from the

shift unit levers.

Remove the two bolts and washers securing the shift unit to the 5 mounting plate on the extension housing. Remove the shift unit. 6 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Adjust the linkage on completion (Section 4). Fig.

6

Extension housing

1

Remove

oil

6.9

Crossmember and

rear

mount -

typical

seal - renewal

the propeller shaft (Chapter 7). Place a suitable container beneath the

2 rear of the extension housing to collect any oil which spills out. 3 Extract the oil seal from the rear end of the extension housing,

using a puller or by prising it out with a lever which has been cranked to go round the output shaft. On no account burr or damage the splines on this shaft. 4 The new seal can be driven into position using a piece of tubing as a

drift.

Chapter 6 Manual and automatic transmission

124 Apply grease to the

5

lips of

the seal, then

install

the propeller shaft.

Top up the transmission as necessary, using the correct type

of

which

spills out.

Remove

the bolt and retainer which pinion adaptor in the extension housing.

Extension housing bushing (3-speed transmissions) - renewal

Remove the extension housing seal (Section 6). Support the weight of the transmission using a jack, with a woodblock on the jack head to spread the load. Remove the extension housing-to-crossmember bolts, then raise 3 1

2

and take off the crossmember. Remove the speedometer pinion adaptor, and collect the

the transmission a

4

oil

3

lubricant.

7

Place a suitable container beneath the drive pinion to collect any

2

little

oil

which

drains out.

Place the container beneath the extension housing flange, then 5 remove the flange bolts and draw off the extension housing. There will be some more oil flowing out at this stage. 6 The bushing should be removed from the extension housing by

secure the speedometer

If the speedometer cable is not disconnected, the cable can be 4 used to pull the adaptor and pinion from the transmission. Any oil found in the cable housing will indicate the need for a new 5

adaptor oil seal. If a change in tire size or rear axle is to be made, choose an 6 adaptor which has the appropriate marking in accordance with the table in the Specifications.

7 The adaptor must be installed so that the numbers which are applicable to the pinion range are at the bottom. Install the retainer and securing bolt. Make sure that the tangs of 8 the retainer are engaged in the slots in the adaptor.

Top up

9

the transmission,

if

necessary, with the correct type of

lubricant.

driving out with a length of tubing.

Press

7

in a

ment with the 8

Install a

new

bushing, making sure that extension housing.

hole

its oil

is in

align-

new

oil

seal.

Installation of the extension housing and other components is the 9 reverse of the removal procedure. Don't forget to top-up the transmission lubricant on completion.

Speedometer

8 1

tire

Transmission (3-speed) - removal and installation

9

slot in the

drive pinion - removal

and

fitting.

installation

The operation described in this Section will be useful if a change size is contemplated or the rear axle ratio is to be altered.

From beneath the vehicle, remove the drain plug and drain the 1 transmission oil into a suitable container. Disconnect the transmission shift levers (refer to Section 2 or 3 if 2 necessary). 3 Remove the propeller shaft (Chapter 7). 4 Unscrew the ferrule and pull out the speedometer cable end

in

5 Disconnect the back-up light switch leads. 6 It's now necessary to support the engine weight. Provided that great care is taken, a floor jack with a large wood-block spacer on the jack head can be used beneath the oil pan. If you can make-up a cradle

arrangement which

will

support the weight along the

oil

pan

flange,

preferable.

this

is

7

Raise the jack so that

it

just takes the

engine weight.

Detach the extension housing from the removable center crossmember. 9 Support the transmission using a suitable jack with a wood-block on the jack head so that the weight is just taken up. 10 Remove the transmission-to-clutch housing bolts. 8

1 1 Slide the transmission carefully rearward. Make sure that the drive pinion shaft (input shaft) clears the clutch disc before the transmission

lowered, or you may do some damage. 12 Carefully lower the transmission, while supporting

is

6 Fig.

O'CLOCK POSITION

6.10 Speedometer pinion and adaptor - installed position

move

off the jack

drive pinion with the clutch housing bore.

RING 'O'

RING PINION

Fig. 6.1

I

1

it

so that

it

head. 13 Assuming that the transmission is to be dismantled, thoroughly clean the outside using a suitable solvent. 14 When installing the transmission, first put a small amount of general purpose grease around the inner end of the pinion shaft pilot bushing and on the clutch release sleeve pinion bearing retainer pilot. 1 5 Now, position the transmission on the jack and raise it to align the doesn't

Speedometer pinion and adaptor parts

125

C

k o

0

i?

^

5 1

"•*.

Ol 8>

$

V — * a

-c

o*o

tOlv-C00~)O ,-C\|fr>'*}-'OCOf"kC0

3 C k.

i:

o

Qj

ft

i o ^ O S

MAINSHAFT EXTENSION HOUSING

143

^ PLIERS

>

SNAP RING

#

/

r

PllERS

STOP RING 1ST SPEED

GEAR

RETAINING RING

/

2ND SPEED GEAR

BEARING RETAINING RING

1ST

AND 2ND CLUTCH

SLEEVE

GEAR BEARING

Fig.

6.62 Removing mainshaft bearing (Overdrive-4)

Fig.

6.63 Removing clutch gear snap-ring (Overdrive-4)

:REVERSE IDLER

REVERSE IDLER I

REVERSE SHIFTER

GEAR

SHAFT

GEAR SHAFT

AND DETENT PLATE

BACKUP LIGHT SWITCH

PLUG

REVERSE LEVER

DETENT SPRING RETAINER REVERSE SPEED

GEARSHIFT FORK Fig.

6.64 Countergear and reverse

REVERSE GEAR

TOOL ASSEMBLY

REVERSE SHIFTER

SHIFTER SHAFT

REMOVED

ASSEMBLY

idler

gear (Overdrive-4)

Fig.

6.65 Removing reverse

idler

—

fflU

BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH

gear shaft (Overdrive-4)

SNAP RING CLUTCH GEAR STOP RING> POSITION

LONG

HUB FORWARD)

CLUTCH SLEEVE STRUTS

AND

REVERSE GEAR

STRUT SPRINGS OIL SEAL Fig.

6.66 Removing reverse

STOP RING shift fork (Overdrive-4)

Fig.

(2)

FORWARD 6.67 1st/2nd synchro unit (Overdrive-4)

Chapter 6 Manual and automatic transmission

144

CLUTCH GEAR SLEEVE STRUT SPRINGS

STOP RING.

(2)

SNAP RING (OUTERi TOWARD THE FRONT

BEARING

MAIN DRIVE PINION

SNAP RING STRUTS

STOP RING

CLUTCH GEAR

i

(POSITION

LONG

FORWARD

HUB FORWARD)

ROLLER BEARINGS

LUG-STOP RING

SNAP RING Fig.

Fig.

TO CLUTCH GEAR

(16)'

6.69 Input shaft and bearings (Overdrive-4)

6.68 3rd/OD synchro unit (Overdrive-4)

GASKET CASE

EXTENSION HOUSING

SHIFT HOUSING

INTERLOCK LEVERS

3rd O/D SHIFT LEVER -

'E'RING

SHAFT

-2nd

SHIFT FORK

1st

SPRING Fig.

1st

-

2nd

LEVER SHAFT

6.70 Installing mainshaft assembly and extension housing

(Overdrive-4)

1-2

FORK NEUTRAL

1-2

SHIFT

SHIFT LEVER Fig. 6.71 Shift

MARKED "A" = MORE

housing - exploded view (Overdrive

-

4)

CLEARANCE

POSITION

MARKED

"B"

=

LESS

CLEARANCE r-

CAM CLEARANCE

gasket. Apply a sealing the bolts.

82 Tap

a

compound

new expansion

to the

screw threads, and tighten

plug into the countershaft bore

in

the front of

the casing.

(REVERSE POSITION)

REVERSE LEVER

•;

*s»

£5

NEUTRAL

^ \

\X

>

'" :

)J&%

/

Install

the interlock levers on the gearshift housing pivot pin, and

secure with the E-ring. Using lever hangers.

4\

POSITION

83

REVERSE DETENT BALL-SPRING RETAINER

pliers,

attach the spring to the interlock

84 Grease the 0-rings, and slide them on the shift shafts. Grease the housing bores and push in each shaft. 85 Install the operating levers and tighten the retaining nuts, making

OD operating lever points downward. 86 Rotate each shift shaft fork bore to the neutral (straight up) position, and install the 3rd/0D fork in its bore under both interlock levers. 87 Position both synchro sleeves in neutral, then place the 1st/2nd sure that the 3rd

st/2nd syncho sleeve. 88 Lay the transmission on its right

shift fork in the

REVERSE IDLER GEAR SHIFT

Fig.

FORK

DETENT SPRING PLUG DETENT DETENT BALL SPRING

6.72 Reverse interlock mechanism (Overdrive-4)

1

side, and position the gasket using grease to retain it. 89 Lower the shift housing into place, guiding the 3rd/OD shift fork into its synchro groove, then lead the shaft of the 1st/2nd fork into its bore in the 1st/2nd shift lever. 90 Now use a screwdriver to raise the interlock lever against its spring to allow the 1 st/2nd shift fork shaft to slip under the levers. The shift housing will now seat against the gasket.

Chapter 6 Manual and automatic transmission 91 Install the shift housing bolts finger-tight, and check the selection action through the gears. Note that the bolt with the longest shoulder passes through the casing at the center rear flange, the two standard bolts are located at the lower rear of the cover, and the eight other bolts are shoulder bolts.

92

When

installing the reverse shift lever, refer to Fig. 6.72, noting

that the reverse shift lever

which mate synchro 1

in

in

and 1st/2nd

shift lever

have

cam

surfaces

the reverse position to lock the 1st/2nd lever, fork and

-

for correct action

by selecting reverse then, while turning the lever in each direction. 94 If the input shaft locks or becomes stiff to turn, the synchro is partly engaging caused by too much cam clearance. Select a new 1 st/2nd shift lever, size A or B, as required. If too little clearance exists, it will be difficult or impossible to select reverse gear. 95 Grease the reverse shaft, and install the operating lever and nut input shaft,

96

moving the 1st/2nd

tne speedometer drive pinion and adaptor, the correct position (Fig. 6.10)

Install

it's in

neutral.

5 Fault diagnosis

93 Test

145

making sure

that

manual transmission

Symptom

Reason/s

Weak or ineffective synchronizing

Synchronizing cones worn, split or damaged Synchronize stop rings worn or damaged

action

Jumps out of gear

Broken gearshift fork rod spring Transmission coupling dogs badly worn Selector fork rod groove badly worn Shift linkage incorrectly adjusted

Incorrect grade of

oil in transmission or oil level too low Bushing or needle roller bearings worn or damaged Gear teeth excessively worn or damaged Countershaft thrust washers worn allowing excessive endplay

Excessive noise

Difficulty in selecting

gears

Shift linkage incorrectly adjusted

Incorrect clutch pedal free play

PART B - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION the fluid is noted to be discolored, drain the transmission and with new fluid (Section 24), then check the band adjustment (Section 23). 9 It's permissible to add fluid detection dyes to the transmission if leakage is suspected, and a MOPAR automatic transmission sealer may be added to correct minor leakage from seals, etc. No other additives are permitted in the transmission. 10 Always keep the external surfaces of the transmission free from dirt and mud to prevent overheating. The lubrication of the transmission is only effective when the 1 1 engine is operating. In the event of a breakdown, requiring towing, do not allow the vehicle to be towed for more than 30 miles or at a speed higher than 30 mph unless the rear wheels are either raised on a

8

As an option to a manual transmission, the Loadflite A-727 automatic transmission can be specified. The transmission combines a torque converter with a fully automatic gear system which operates three forward speeds and one reverse.

The torque converter is attached to the rear end of the crankshaft through the medium of a driveplate. The transmission fluid is cooled by circulating it through the base of the radiator.

Engine torque is transmitted to the torque converter, then through the input shaft to the multiple disc clutches within the transmission. The actual powe' flow depends upon the engagement and application of the various clutches and bands.

The transmission

fluid is filtered

by an internal

If

refill

16 General description - automatic transmission

filter

attached to

towing 1

2

for

trailer or

Due

the propeller shaft

is first

removed.

and the need and gauges, any servicing operations should be

to the complexity of the automatic transmission

special

tools

limited to those described in the following Sections.

the lower side of the valve body. 1

17 Maintenance and precaution 1

The automatic transmission fluid level must be checked at least six months, and preferably more frequently. Later models have a transmission warning lamp which illuminates

1

8 Speedometer drive pinion - removal and installation This procedure

is

similar to that described in Section 8 for

manual

transmissions.

every 2 if

the fluid level

19 Extension housing

low.

is

checked with the engine and transmission fully warmed up, which will occur after approximately 10 miles of normal driving. 4 To check the fluid level, apply the parking brake, select each gear 3

in turn,

seal - renewal

sion, or internal is

1

The procedure

is

similar to that described in Section 6 for

manual

transmissions.

then select Neutral (N).

With the engine idling, observe the warning lamp, or remove the dipstick and check the fluid level. If the warning lamp lights up, or the indicated level of the dipstick 6 is low, add a Dexron type fluid to bring it up to, or just below, the Full mark. Never overfill, or permanent damage may occur. The fluid is poured in through the dipstick tube after the dipstick has been removed. 7 When adding fluid, take extra care that no dirt enters the transmis5

cap

oil

Fluid level should be

damage

will

occur. Also

make

seated properly to prevent water and

dirt

sure that the dipstick from getting in.

20 Neutral start/back-up

light

switch

testing,

removal and

installation

remove the wiring connector and check for between the center pin of the switch (neutral start pin) and the transmission casing. There should be continuity in the Park and Neutral positions only. Before removing a switch which appears to be 1

To

test the switch,

continuity

adjustment (Section 21 ). is through the two outer pins on the switch. Continuity should only exist between these pins when Reverse

faulty,

2

check the

shift linkage

The back-up

light circuit

Chapter 6 Manual and automatic transmission

Fig.

147

6.74 Early type dipstick (Loadflite)

Fig.

6.75 Later type dipstick (Loadflite)

CONTACT STEERING

WIRING

CONNECTOR

is

LEVER

/T*1

TRANSMISSION

$W| (CH

6.76 Neutral start/back-up

Fig.

COLUMN

light

CONTROL LEVER switch (Loadflite)

selected.

To remove a switch, place a large clean container beneath it, then unscrew it. 4 With the switch removed, move the selector to Park, then Neutral, and check that the switch operating fingers are in the center of the 3

opening. 5 Install the replacement switch and a new seal, tighten to the torque setting given in the Specifications, then top-up the transmission fluid

(Section 17). Fig.

21 1

6.77 Gearshift linkage (Loadflite)

Gearshift linkage- adjustment Initially

loosen the adjustable rod swivel bolt, then select Park

(photo).

2

Move

the transmission shift control lever fully rearward to the Park

position.

Set the adjustable rod to the correct length so that it can be without loading it in either direction. 4 Check that the vehicle will only start in the Park or Neutral positions, that all gate stops are positive, that the shift effort is free with positive action of the detents, and that the detent position is close enough to the gate stops in Neutral and Drive to ensure that the hand lever won't remain out of the detent position when placed against the

3

installed

gate and released.

22 Throttle rod - adjustment 1

ensure that the engine is fully warmed up, the carburetor is cam, and the idle speed is correctly set. Lubricate the carburetor linkage (Routine Maintenance). Either disconnect the choke at the carburetor, or block the choke Initially

off the fast idle

2

3

valve

in

the

full

open

position.

21.1 Swivel bolt (arrowed)

148

Fig.

Fig.

6.78 Throttle rod adjustment (225 cu

in

6.79 Throttle rod adjustment (V8 engine)

engine)

WASHER

1

Chapter 6 Manual and automatic transmission

149

KICKDOWN BAND ADJUSTING SCREW

I

GEARSHIFT CONTROL LEVER Location of kickdown band adjusting screw I

Fig. 6.81

Fig.

(Loadflite)

6.80 Throttle lever holding tool (Loadflite)

Open the throttle slightly to release the fast idle cam, then let the speed stabilize. Detach the return spring at both ends, then remove the clips, 5 washers and slotted throttle rod end from the carburetor pin. 6 Make-up a small adjusting tool to attach to the transmission throttle lever. Use a spring to hold the lever forward against its stop while adjusting the linkage, making sure that no other force is exerted against the lower end of the rod (if necessary, loosen the throttle lever and move it downward on the shaft so that the adjusting tool can be 4

idle

LOW-REVERSE BAND ADJUSTMENT

installed).

With the transmission lever firmly against its stop, rotate the 7 threaded rod end so that the rear edge of the slot contacts the carburetor pin. Install the 8

flat

washer and

clip to retain the throttle

rod on the car-

buretor pin. Install the throttle rod return spring to the tab on the throttle rod 9 and to the carburetor pin. 10 Remove the adjustment tool and spring, then move the slotted adjuster link fully rearward and allow it to return slowly, making sure that it returns to the fully forward position. 1 Connect the choke rod or remove the blocking arrangement.

23 Band adjustment Fig.

6.82

Low and

reverse band adjusting screw (Loadflite)

Kickdown band 1

Loosen the locknut and back-off the band adjusting screw five Check that the screw is free-running. Tighten the band adjusting screw to 6lbf ft (8.1 6 Nm), then back-

turns.

2

off the

3

number

of turns stated in the Specifications.

Tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting screw against

turning.

Low and reverse band 4

Drain the transmission fluid (Section 24).

Loosen the locknut and back-off the band adjusting screw five turns. Check that the screw is free-running in the lever. Tighten the band adjusting screw to 6lbf ft (8.1 6 Nm), then back6 5

number of turns stated in the Specifications. Tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting screw against

off the

7

turning.

8

Install

the

oil

pan and add the transmission

24 Automatic transmission - draining and

fluid

(Section 24).

refilling

1 Jack up the vehicle for access to the transmission oil pan. Place a suitable container beneath the oil pan, then loosen the 2 retaining bolts.

Ea>

Fig.

6.83 Converter drain plug (Loadflite)

1

150

Chapter 6 Manual and automatic transmission

25.14 Speedometer cable connection

Fig.

6.85 Driveplate and converter housing (Loadflite)

While supporting the oil pan, tap it at one corner to break the seal, 3 and allow the fluid to drain. Remove the oil pan, then remove the access plate on the front (5f 4 the torque converter.

25 17 Transmission mount

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise if necessary, then remove the 5 torque converter drain plug, and allow the rest of the fluid to drain. Install the converter drain plug and access plate. 6 Adjust both bands (Section 23). 7 Remove the oil filter from the base of the valve body, and install 8 the replacement. Clean the oil pan, and install it using a new gasket. 9 10 Pour in 6 US quarts (5.7 litres) of Dexron-type automatic transmission fluid through the filler tube. 1 Start the engine and allow it to idle for two minutes with the

Chapter 6 Manual and automatic transmission parking brake on. 12 Select each gear in turn, ending up in Neutral, then add sufficient fluid to bring the level up to the Add One Pint' mark. 13 Recheck the fluid level at the normal operating temperature

crossmember

(Section 17).

end

151

(photo).

8 Progressively loosen and remove the bellhousing bolts. 19 Carefully work the transmission and converter together rearward off the engine block dowels, and disengage the converter hub from the 1

of the crankshaft. Attach a small C-clamp to the edge of the bellhousing to hold the converter in place during the removal operation.

25 Automatic transmission - removal and

installation

Disconnect the battery ground cable. 1 On some models it will be necessary to detach and lower the 2 exhaust system for clearance (Chapter 3). Where applicable, detach the engine-to-transmission struts. 3 4 With a suitable container ready to catch any transmission fluid, disconnect the fluid cooler lines at the transmission (photo). Remove the starter motor (Chapter 10) and the fluid cooler line 5

20 Lower

the transmission carefully, and withdraw the assembly from under the vehicle. 21 To remove the converter, remove the C-clamp from the bellhousing,

and

22

Installation

(a)

the converter access cover. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise using a wrench on the vibration damper bolt to bring the converter drain plug to the bottom. Drain the oil pan and converter (Section 24). 8 Index mark the converter and driveplate to ensure correct align9 ment on reassembly. 10 Rotate the engine clockwise as necessary for access to the converter-to-driveplate bolts, and remove them. 1 1 Remove the propeller shaft (Chapter 7). 12 Disconnect the wiring connector for the neutral start/back-up light switch.

13

(b)

(Fig. 6.84).

(d)

If

(f)

oil filler

to hold the converter in place when installing. a new driveplate has been used, make sure that both transmission dowel pins are in the engine block, and that they're protruding far enough to hold the transmission in align-

ment. Coat the converter hub hole in the crankshaft with general purpose grease. Align the marks on the converter and driveplate which were made during removal. The offset holes in the driveplate are nearest to the \ in hole

stamped V-mark

in

the inner circle of the plate; a

identifies the position of the offset hole in the

(g)

converter front cover. Adjust the gearshift linkage and throttle rod (Sections 21 and

(h)

Refill

this is preferable.

22).

Raise the jack so that it just takes the engine weight. Remove the bolts securing the transmission mount to the crossmember and the crossmember to the frame, then remove the

6 17 1

26

Before the converter can be attached to the transmission, it necessary to rotate the oil pump rotors to allow the converter to engage properly. When installed, the slots in the converter hub must be in the vertical plane. After installing the converter, check for full engagement using a straight, edge and rule. The surface of the converter lugs should be at least y in (12 mm) to the rear of the straight edge

Use the C-clamp

Disconnect the gearshift rod and torque shaft assembly from the

tube and the speedometer cable (photo). 15 It's now necessary to support the engine weight. Provided that great care is taken, a floor jack with a large wood-block spacer on the jack head can be used beneath the oil pan. If you can make-up a cradle arrangement which will support the weight along the oil pan flange,

off.

(c)

(e)

transmission. 1 4 Remove the

of

may be

Remove

7

it

the transmission

and converter is basically the reverse of the removal procedure, but the following should be noted:

bracket.

6

carefully pull

Fault diagnosis

-

with the correct quantity of Dexron-type automatic transmission fluid (Section 24).

automatic transmission

Always attempt to diagnose a fault before removing the transmission from the vehicle. Some of the faults listed cannot be rectified by the home mechanic as they are beyond his scope without the use of special tools. However, the use of this chart may help to provide guidance to the dealer and so reduce the time he has to spend on identifying the problem.

Symptom

Reason/s

Bump (Neutral to

D' or R')

Engine

idle

speed too high

Faulty valve

Hydraulic pressure too high Faulty rear clutch

Delay

when

D' or R' selected

Hydraulic pressure low Faulty valve Low/reverse band requires adjustment

Low fluid

level

Incorrect selector linkage adjustment

Clogged fluid filter

Worn fluid pump Engine

idle

speed too low

Incorrect throttle controlled valve linkage

Kickdown band requires adjustment Faulty front clutch Faulty rear clutch

No

upshift

Low

hydraulic pressure

Faulty valve

Low fluid

level

Incorrectly adjusted

speed selector linkage

Incorrect throttle controlled valve linkage

Faulty governor

Kickdown band requires adjustment Faulty front clutch

Chapter 6 Manual and automatic transmission

152 No kickdown or normal downshift

Faulty valve Incorrect throttle controlled valve linkage

Faulty governor

Kickdown servo band requires adjustment Slips in drive positions

Low

hydraulic pressure

Faulty valve

Low fluid

level

Speed selector linkage Clogged

Faulty fluid

Aerated

incorrectly adjusted

fluid filter

pump

fluid

Incorrect throttle controlled valve linkage Faulty rear clutch Slips in reverse

Low

hydraulic pressure Low/reverse band requires adjustment Faulty valve body

Low fluid Speed

level

selector linkage incorrectly adjusted

Faulty fluid

Aerated

pump

fluid

Faulty front clutch Slips in

all

selector positions

Low

hydraulic pressure

Faulty valve body

Low fluid Clogged

level

fluid filter

Faulty fluid

Aerated

No drive

in

any position

Low

pump

fluid

hydraulic pressure

Faulty valve body

Low fluid

level

Clogged fluid filter Faulty fluid

pump

Planetary gears broken or seized

No drive

in

forward speeds

Low

hydraulic pressure

Faulty valve body

Low fluid

level

Over-running clutch not holding Faulty rear clutch Planetary gears broken or seized

No drive

in

reverse

Low

hydraulic pressure Low/reverse band requires adjustment Faulty valve

Low fluid

body

level

Incorrect speed selector linkage adjustment

Faulty front clutch Faulty rear clutch

Planetary gears broken or seized Drives

in

neutral

Faulty valve body Incorrectly adjusted

speed selector linkage

Insufficient clutch plate clearance

Faulty rear clutch

Rear clutch dragging Difficult to

fill

Overheating

with fluid

Breather clogged in Fluid filter clogged

fluid

pump housing

Low hydraulic pressure Low fluid level Incorrect speed selector linkage

Faulty fluid

pump

Kickdown band too tight Fault in fluid cooling system Harsh upshift

Low

hydraulic pressure

Incorrect throttle controlled valve linkage

Kickdown band requires adjustment Hydraulic pressure too high

Chapter 6 Manual and automatic transmission Delayed upshift

Incorrect downshift linkage adjustment

Kickdown band

incorrectly adjusted

Faulty governor Faulty front clutch

153

Chapter 7 Propeller shaft Contents alignment and balance removal and installation Universal joints - inspection and renewal

Center bearing - removal, servicing and installation Fault diagnosis - propeller shaft General description

Propeller shaft

-

Propeller shaft

-

Maintenance

Specifications

Type

One- or two-piece with universal joints (Center bearing with two-piece shafts)

Diameter

2.50x 0.065 to 2.75 x 0.065. 3.25 x 0.065

Universal joint

Hookes-type, cross and

Torque wrench settings

Ibfft

Nm

Center bearing support bolt nuts

50

68

Clamp screws

14

19

to

4.00 x 0.065

roller

General description

this type of propeller shaft is used for the rear, the splined shaft being the rear end of the front propeller shaft. The front propeller shaft is then coupled directly to the transmission output shaft

On 109 and 127

inch wheelbase vehicles a one-piece propeller used. 145 inch wheelbase vehicles have a two-piece propeller shaft with a center bearing. Cross and roller type (Hooke's) Universal joints are used at the

flange.

shaft ends (photo).

propeller shaft.

wheelbase models 1

shaft

The universal

is

from

periodic

life on installation and, apart maintenance. On 145 inch grease nipple on the slip spline of the rear

joints are lubricated for

require

inspection,

wheelbase models there's

a

no

On 109 and 127 inch wheelbase models, the front universal joint has an internally splined yoke which slides on the transmission output shaft to

compensate

for

movement

of the rear axle.

On 145

inch

2 1

Maintenance Regularly check for signs of lubricant leakage past the universal If this is evident, the joints will have to be dismantled and

joint seals.

new components

fitted.

Regularly check the security of the propeller shaft and center 2 bearing connecting bolts and nuts. Where applicable lubricate the slip spline at the intervals stated in 3 the Routine Maintenance Section.

•

3

Propeller shaft - removal and installation

One-piece shaft Make alignment marks on 1

the rear of the shaft, the universal joint,

and the rear axle pinion flange before removal. This is to retain the balance on reassembly Remove the two rear joint clamps; detach the rear end of the shaft 2 and support it on a jack or by wiring it up. Don't disturb the cross strap, if

3

installed.

1

Typical universal joint

the front sliding yoke from the transmission output have a container ready to catch some oil which will be lost.

Withdraw

shaft, but

4 Take care not to damage the machined surface of the sliding yoke. Renew the transmission rear oil seal if it's leaking (Chapter 6). 5 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, but align the 6 marks made at the rear of the shaft before tightening the joint clamp bolts to the specified torque.

Chapter 7 Propeller shaft

BUSHING

SHAFT

BUSHING

BUSHING

RETAINER

AND

155

AND

ROLLERS

SEAL RETAINER

ROLLERS

BUSHING RETAINER

\\ CROSS

SEAL-

x.j-,

SEAL RETAINER .->-•-

SEAL

ft— W BUSHING BUSHING C

FLANGE •BUSHING

AND

RETAINER

BUSHING

/OS

BUSHING

FRONT ASSEMBLY

RETAINER

Fig. 7.1 Front

—sN.

STRAP

"^O RETAINER

BUSHING

ROLLERS

..

AND

ROLLERS

BUSHING

SEAL

X-

RETAINER BUSHING

and rear universal

joints

AND

RETAINER ROLLERS

CLAMP

AND

SCREW AND WASHER ASSEMBLY REAR ASSEMBLY

ROLLERS

- typical for one-piece shaft and two-piece rear shaft

SCREW

YOKE ON PROPSHAFT ASSEMBLY MUST BE PHASED AS SHOWN.

SCREW

SHAFT

Fig. 7.2

Two-piece propeller shaft mounting

Two-piece shaft 7

8

Remove the rear shaft as described for Make alignment marks on the front

remove the 9

retaining screws

Remove

the one-piece shaft. universal joint yokes, then

and clamps.

the center bearing mounting nuts and bolts, and

remove

the shaft and center bearing from the vehicle.

10 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, but align the marks made on the joint flanges and yokes before tightening the clamp, bolts to the specified torque.

4

Universal joints - inspection and renewal

1 Wear in the needle roller bearings is characterized by vibration in the transmission, 'clonks' on taking up the drive, and in extreme cases of lack of lubrication, metallic squeaking and ultimately, grating and

shrieking sounds as the bearings break up. 2 It's easy to check if the needle roller bearings are worn with the propeller shaft in position by trying to turn the shaft with one hand, the

Chapter 7 Propeller shaft

156

BRACKET

FITTING

\^

RETAINER

JPPORT

INSULATOR RETAINER

BEARING

REAR TUBE

Fig. 7.3

Center bearing -two-piece propeller shaft

other hand holding the rear axle flange when the rear universal joint is being checked, and the front half coupling when the front universal joint is being checked. Any movement between the propeller shaft and the couplings is indicative of considerable wear. If wear is evident, either fit a new propeller shaft assembly com3 plete or renew the universal joints as described later in this Section. 4 A final test for wear is to attempt to lift the shaft and note any

movement between the yokes of the joints. 5 Clean away all dirt and grease from the universal joints.

Mark the positions

of the

external surfaces of the

yokes

in relation

to each

other so that they can be installed in their original positions to maintain the balance of the shaft. 6 Extract the retainers with the aid of a screwdriver. If they're very tight, tap the end of the bearing race (within the periphery of the snapring) with a drift and hammer to relieve the pressure. 7 Once the snap-rings are removed, tap the universal joints at the yoke with a soft hammer, and the bearings and race will come out of the housing and can be removed easily. If they're obstinate they can be gripped in a self-locking wrench for final removal provided they're to

be renewed. Once the bearings are removed from each opposite journal, the 8 crosses can be disengaged. Obtain a repair kit for each joint which will contain the cross, 9 needle bearings, bearing cups and seals. 10 Place the needles in each race and fill the race one-third full with grease prior to placing it over the trunnion, and tap each one home with a brass drift. Alternatively, the cups can be pressed into the yokes, using a vise and a socket of slightly smaller diameter than the bearing cup. Any grease exuding from the fourth bearing journal after three have been installed should be removed before installing the fourth race. 1

1

Install

new

snap-rings ensuring they seat neatly

in

the retaining

good condition and not a sloppy transmission mainshaft or center bearing. sliding sleeve splines are in

5

in

the

Center bearing - removal, servicing and installation

1 Remove the propeller shafts (Section 3). 2 Hold the front shaft in a vise; pull off the support and insulator, and discard them. Bend the slinger away from the bearing as necessary, to allow a 3 puller to be used; pull off the bearing and slinger, and discard them. 4 Press on a new slinger and bearing assembly. Install the retainer and press on the parts using a hammer and 5

suitable diameter tube.

6

If

install

necessary, pry off the cap and seal from the yoke, and loosely

new

parts.

the front and rear propeller shafts (Section

7

Install

8

Slide the seal

3).

and cap onto the yoke, and bend over the cap tabs

to retain.

6

Propeller shaft - alignment and balance

If vibration occurs in the propeller shaft, and it can't be rectified by renewal of the joints or center bearing, it's possible ihat horizontal alignment or propeller shaft balance is the cause. These checks, and any subsequent rectification, are best left to a Chrysler dealer for the job to be done accurately.

7

Fault diagnosis- propeller shaft

Symptom

Reason/s

grooves.

12 In cases of extreme wear or neglect, it's conceivable that the bearing housings in the shaft, sliding sleeves or flange have worn so much that the bearing races are a slack fit in them. In such cases it will be necessary to renew the item affected as well. Check also that the

fit

Vibration

when vehicle

running on the road

is

Out of balance shaft

Wear

in

splined sleeve

Loose flange bolts

Worn universal joints

Chapter 8 Rear axle Contents Axleshafts(Spicer60,

60HD and 70 axle) - removal and 4

installation

Axleshafts, bearings and

and

oil

seals (8| and

9^

in axle)

-

removal 2

installation

Axleshafts, bearings and

oil

seals (8|

in axle)

-

removal and

installation Differential carrier (8£ in axle)

Fault diagnosis

-

-

removal and installation

rear axle

...

3 9 12

General description Limited slip differentials

1

11

Pinion

oil

Pinion

oil

seal (8f and 9^ in axle) - renewal seal (8| in axle) - renewal

Pinion

oil

seal (Spicer 60,

Rear axle

-

60HD

and 70

axle)

removal and installation (Spicer 60, 60HD and 70 axle)

Wheel bearing

6 7 -

-

renewal

8 5

adjustment

Specifications

Axle types

8£ 8f

in,

semi-floating

in,

semi-floating (pre-1 975)

975 onward)

9-j in, semi-floating (1

Spicer 60 and 60H D, full-floating Spicer 70, full-floating Sure-Grip differential available with differential available

Gear

ratios

8j

9^

in,

in

axles

8finaxle Spicer

60and 60HD

Spicer

70 axle

axles

with Spicer

9^

2.71,3.21 or 3.55:1 2. 94,3.23,3. 55or 3.91:1 3.54or4.10:1

90EP Hypoid gear oil Use 4 ounces

(0.

1

1

(MIL-L-2

83

litres)

1

05B/API GL-5).

of additive friction modifier,

P/N 4057 1 00 or equivalent with every Sure-Grip axles.

Lubricant capacity in and 8f in axles 9jinaxle

8f

60and 60HD 70 axle

axles

oil refill

4.4 US pt (2 litres) 4.5 US pt (2.1 litres) 6 US pt (2.8 litres) 7 US pt (3.3 litres)

Torque wrench settings 8 1 in axle

Ibfft

Nm

Drive pinion flange nut

210min 20

286 min 27

45 210 min 35

61

286 min 48

20 210min

27 286 min

40 260 20

54 354 27 75

Carrier cover bolts

8 \ in axle Carrier-to-axle housing bolt nuts

Drive pinion flange nut Axle shaft retainer nuts

9\

in axle

Carrier cover bolts

Drive pinion flange nut

Spicer

60 and 60HD axle

case half retaining bolts Drive pinion flange nut

Differential

Carrier cover bolts Axle shaft retainer nuts

55

Spicer 70 axle Differential

case half retaining bolts

Carrier cover bolts

Drive pinion flange nut Axle shaft retainer nuts

&x20 }x20

Trac-Lok

4.10:1

Axle lubricant

Spicer Spicer

in axle;

60and60HD axles.

260

120 27 354

55 85

75 116

88 20

Mopar

on Trac-Lok and

10

158

\

WASHEF

BOLT

Fig. 8.1

8 § and 9j

Note On some axles the

in

filler

axle

assembly -

plug

is

on the

typical

differential cover

Chapter 8 Rear axle

159

General description

1

Two

different types of axle are in use on the models covered by Manual. These are the semi-floating type - where the axleshaft has an outer-end bearing in the axle tube, and full-floating type where the wheel is carried on a hub/brake drum attached to the outer end of the axle tube and the axleshaft is installed through this. this

is

On some versions of the semi-floating axle (8f in) the differential mounted in a removable carrier, but on all other axles, it's installed

and set-up as an

Two

integral part of the axle casing.

slip differential are available as options on these vehicles. These are the Sure-Grip and the Trak-Lok. In view of the need for special tools and gauges, operations on the rear axle should be restricted to those described in this Chapter. More extensive repairs should be left to your Chrysler dealer, or a new or reconditioned unit obtained. NOTE: Should the axle ever be submerged in flood water, it must be drained and refilled with new oil of the correct type without delay. The

different types of limited

correct oil level is j to j in below the filler opening on up to the bottom of the filler opening on other axles.

Axleshafts, bearings and 2 and installation 1

oil

Sf

in axles,

and

Fig. 8.2

Removing the

seals (8| and 9} in axle) - removal

pinion lock pin (8$ and

C"

9£

in axle)

WASHER LOCK

Jack up the rear of the vehicle and support the axle casing

securely on jack stands. 2 Remove the roadwheel and brake drum. Clean off all the dirt from around the differential housing cover, 3 then progressively loosen the cover bolts and allow the lubricant to drain. The cover can be removed when the oil has stopped flowing out. 4 Turn the differential case for access to the lock screw; remove the lock screw and pinion shaft.

Push the axleshaft inwards and remove the C-washer from the end

5

of the axleshaft.

hammer should now be used to pull the axleshaft out of the you haven't got one, an old wheel can be bolted to the hub and hammer blows applied at two opposite points on the inner side of the wheel rim. 7 Inspect the axleshaft for pick-up, pitting and brinnelling. If any of these are present, renew the axleshaft and the bearing. Using the button end of the axleshaft, pry the oil seal from the end of the axle tube; a new one must be used during installation. To remove the bearing it will probably be necessary to use a hook-ended tool on which to pull. 8 When installing, first make sure that all the parts are clean, then 6

A

axle.

slide

If

Fig. 8.3

Axleshaft C-washer (8f and 9}

in axle)

press in the bearing, applying pressure to the outer race only. Make sure that it goes in squarely. Install the oil seal and smear the lips with differential oil. Note that 9 the lips face inward.

10 The remainder of the

Make

procedure. differential

and,

when

installation is the reverse of the

sure that the housing cover

is

removal

clean and also the

gasket flange. Apply a silicone rubber sealant to the cover it. On completion, don't forget to top up the axle

dry, install

with the correct type of lubricant.

3

Axleshafts, bearings and

oil

seals

(8-J in

axle)

- removal and

installation

Two

and seepage at the outer shaft seal is usually as a result of failure of the inner seal which is the one which should be renewed. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on jack stands. 2 Remove the roadwheel and brake drum. 3 Using the access hole in the axleshaft end flange unscrew the 4 1

axleshaft oilseals are fitted to this type of axle, an inner

an outer one.

Oil

retainer nuts.

Using a slide hammer, withdraw the axleshaft then remove the 5 brake assembly and gaskets.

A suitable tool will now be needed to extract the inner oil seal from 6 the axle casing. Attaching a rod with outward turning claws to the slide hammer will serve the purpose. Wipe the axle housing seal bore clean and drive in a new seal 7 using a suitable piece of tubing. 8

If

the axleshaft

is

to be dismantled, first cut three or four

grooves

Fig.

8.4 Sealant application on rear axle cover

-

typical

Chapter 8 Rear axle

160

ADJUSTER SHAFT /

.OIL SEAL

y RETAINER

>

BUMPER

y^ jT

vW^^SjA*!***

HOUSING

STUD

GASKET /COLLAR

/ GASKET

^*^fii CUP^

SCREW

CONE OIL SEAL

RIGHT

GASKET

SHAFT OIL SEAL'

NUT 'CARRIER

-STUD

COLLAR GASKET

AND CAP

FLANGE LEFT

OIL SEAL'

RETAINER Fig. 8.5

8f

in

axle

assembly -

typical

SLEEVE SP-5041

Fig.

8.6 Notching the bearing collar (8f

Fig. 8.7

in axle)

Removing

new

with a sharp chisel across the bearing collar. The collar can then be withdrawn. On no account use heat to remove the collar or the temper of the axleshaft will be weakened. 9 Remove the bearing collar retainer by cutting off the lower edge with a chisel. Grind off a section of the bearing inner track flange and extract the 1 bearing rollers with a pair of pliers. 1 1 Pull the roller cage down as far as it will go, and cut and remove it. 1 2 Remove the roller bearing outer track. 13 Protect the seal bearing surface by wrapping some thin metal sheeting round it, then withdraw the bearing inner track using a suit-

the

able extractor.

adjuster before installation.

14

Extract the axleshaft outer seal from the retainer plate

and renew

it.

15 Commence reassembly by installing the retainer plate, complete with new seal, to the axleshaft. 16 Press general purpose grease into the bearing roller then install

a roller retainer (8f in axle)

bearing outer track, bearing and collar using a suitable puller. new rubber coated steel gasket to the axle housing flange studs, then install the brake support plate assembly. 18 Smear a little grease on the outer diameter of the bearing outer track to prevent corrosion. 19 Install a foam gasket to the axle housing flange studs, then carefully slide the axleshaft assembly into the axle casing until the splines on the shaft are felt to engage with the differential side gears. 20 Tap the axleshaft fully home with a plastic-faced mallet. 2 1 Install the retainer nuts, tightening the lower one first. 22 When installing the right-hand axleshaft, back off the threaded 1

7

Install a

23 If one or both axleshafts have been removed and installed or new components installed, the axleshaft endplay must now be adjusted. 24 To adjust the endplay, make sure that both rear wheels are off the ground. 25 Turn the axleshaft adjuster ring on the right-hand axleshaft

until all

Chapter 8 Rear axle

161

endplay in the axleshafts just disappears. Now turn the adjuster in a counter-clockwise direction four notches. This should provide the correct endplay of between 0008 and 001 8 in. Ideally a dial gauge should be used to measure this. 26 When the endplay is correctly set. remove one support plate retainer nut and install the adjuster lock. If the tab on the lock does not

engage with the notch

way

in

the adjuster, turn the adjuster a fraction

does. 27 Install the brake drums and roadwheels, and lower the vehicle to the ground. either

4

until

it

Axleshafts (Spicer 60,

60HD and 70

removal and

axle)

installation

1

Remove

2

Rap the

the axleshaft flange nuts and lock washers. axleshaft sharply

in

the center of the flange with a

hammer to loosen the tapered dowels. Remove the dowels and draw out the 3

When

4

installing, clean the

axleshaft (photo).

gasket contact area and place a

new

gasket on the flange. 5

Slide the axleshaft into the housing.

6

Install

the tapered dowels, followed by the lockwashers and nuts;

tighten to the specified torque (photo). Fig.

GEAR AND PINION

CQNE

CUP

8.8 Flange ground off for removing rollers (8|

in axle)

COVER

1TIAL

GASKET

CONE CUP

SHAFT

NUT

DOWEL NUT

WASHI

Fig.

8.9 Spicer 60 and

60HD

axle

assembly -

typical (see Chapter

9

for hubs)

4.3

Removing the

4.6 Installing tapered dowels and nut

axleshaft

COVER

GASKET SIDE

CASE HALF

.CUP

\

BOLT

\

N.

^BEARING CONE

DIFFERENTIAL

ADJUSTING SHIMS

BEARING CONE DRIVE

PINION

CUP

BEARING DIFFERENTIAL

CONE

ADJUSTING SHIMS

SHAFT

NUT •DOWEL

WASHER

'WASHER Fig.

V.

8.10 Spicer 70 axle assembly -typical (see Chapter 9

for

hubs)

1

Chapter 8 Rear axle

163

depth

Rear axle - removal and installation

5

b)

to

When

which

it's

inserted

installing the

carrier with jointing

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it at the front of the rear 1 springs so that the rear wheels are just clear of the ground. Using a wood-block, support the brake pedal in the up position. 2 Remove the roadwheels. On full floating axles also remove the 3 axleshafts (Section 4) and brake drums (Chapter 9). Disconnect the brake hose at the tee-connection. Plug both ends 4 to prevent loss of fluid.

Disconnect the parking brake cables (Chapter 9). Disconnect the propeller shaft at the differential companion flange 6 and tie it up out of the way to prevent damage to the front universal joint. Refer to Chapter 7 for the procedure to make sure that it can be reconnected correctly. Remove the shock absorbers; remove the U-bolts and nuts. Note: 7 If tapered shims are installed between the rear springs and axle, note 5

and make sure

their positions

that they're installed in the

same

8

9

the axle assembly from the vehicle. Installation is basically the reverse of the removal procedure. Refer to Chapter 7 when installing the propeller shaft, and Chapter 1 1 if necessary when attaching the springs and shock absorbers. Don't forget to bleed the brakes on completion (Chapter 9).

Pinion

1

The pinion

oil

seal (8|

and 9|

in axle)

- renewal

oil seal can be renewed without withdrawing the rear from the vehicle provided the following procedure is rigidly

axle

Pinion

was

oil

the differential carrier.

coat

its

compound, then

seat in the differential

drive in the seal only as

originally recorded.

seal (Spicer 60.

60HD

and 70

axle) -

renewal

1 Follow the procedure of paragraph 1 through 3 and 5 through 7 of Section 6, except that it's not necessary to remove the rear wheels and brake drums. Refer to Fig. 8.9 and 8. 1 for details of the oil seal arrangement. 2 3 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Note that on these axles, there's no collapsible spacer. Make sure that the pinion flange nut is tightened to the correct torque.

Remove

6

as

in

seal,

posi-

tion.

8 9

far

new

followed.

Detach the propeller shaft from the differential companion flange tie it up out of the way to prevent damage to the front universal joint. Refer to Chapter 7 for the procedure to make sure that it can be reconnected correctly. With the rear of the vehicle raised and supported securely on jack 3 stands, remove the rear roadwheels and brake drums to obviate drag 2

1

Differential carrier (8J in axle) -

Remove

the axleshafts (Section

removal and installation

3).

Disconnect the propeller shaft at the differential companion flange and tie it up out of the way to prevent damage to the front universal joint. Refer to Chapter 7 for the procedure to make sure that it can be reconnected correctly. If there's a drain plug on the differential carrier, remove it and 3 drain out the axle oil. Alternatively, loosen the differential-to-axle carrier casing nuts, and allow the oil to drain. 4 Remove the differential carrier-to-axle casing nuts and withdraw 2

the carrier. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Make sure 5 that the flange mating surfaces are clean, and use a new gasket. Top up the axle with the correct type of lubricant on completion.

and

during later operations. 4 Using a piece of cord

1

wound round

the pinion flange and attached to a spring balance, check and record the turning torque of the pinion flange. If a suitable torque wrench is available, this can be used as an

Mark the

relative position of the flange to the pinion shaft

then

bolt a long piece of flat steel to the holes in the pinion flange and,

using

it

as a lever, hold the pinion flange

screwed and removed, together with the

still

while the pinion nut

Belleville

is

un-

washer.

Remove

the pinion flange, using a small puller if necessary. Pry out the oil seal. This is easily done if one side of the seal is first 7 tapped inwards and the opposite side, which will have projected,

6

2

3

levered out with a screwdriver. 8 Drive the new seal fully into position using a tubular drift. 9 Install the pinion flange making sure that the alignment marks are

and 70

axle) -

adjustment

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Remove the axleshaft (Section 4). Fold back the tabs of the lockring and remove the outer nut. Take

off the lockring.

Spin the roadwheel to make sure that the bearing is free-running. the bearing has to be removed, refer to Section 5 in Chapter 9). While spinning the roadwheel, tighten the bearing nut until drag is 5 just felt then back-off the nut one flat. Endplay should now just be (If

detectable. Install the lockring and outer nut, but make sure that the inner nut 6 doesn't turn as the outer one is tightened. Bend over two tabs of the lockring to secure both nuts against rotating (photo). Install the axleshaft (Section 4). 7

correctly positioned.

10 Holding the pinion flange quite still with the lever made up for the purpose, install the Belleville washer and screw on the pinion nut, tightening it to the minimum torque given in the Specifications. 1 Now check the pinion turning torque and compare it with that obtained before dismantling. It will probably be less than originally recorded, in which case tighten the pinion nut not more than ^ of a turn and check the turning torque again. Continue tightening the in small increments until the turning torque matches that which was recorded before dismantling. On no account overtighten the nut and then back it off in an attempt to rectify the situation. A

pinion nut

type pre-loaded spacer is installed in this type of axle which, once overcompressed, must be renewed and this means dismantling the complete axle assembly! 12 Install the propeller shaft (Chapter 7), then install the brake drums and roadwheels. collapsible

7

Pinion

1

The procedure

oil

seal (8^ is

the following points a)

60HD

4

alternative.

5

10 Wheel bearing (Spicer 60,

in

axle)

- renewal

similar to that described in Section 6 except that

106 Bending

must be noted:

Before removing the original

oil seal,

measure and record the

over lockring tabs

Chapter 8 Rear axle

164

in

To test the effectiveness of limited slip differential, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on stands so that the roadwheels are free. Set the speed selector in PARK (automatic transmission) or 1st 5 gear (manual transmission) with the engine off. Now attempt to rotate a rear roadwheel. If it is either impossible or 6

wheel which has the better traction to develop more driving torque than the other wheel so providing significantly greater driving torque than is the case with a conventional differential. To find out whether a vehicle is equipped with a limited slip 3 differential, raise both rear roadwheels off the ground and if, when turning one wheel both wheels are seen to turn in the same direction,

extremely difficult to turn either wheel, then the differential unit is performing satisfactorily. If, on the other hand, the wheel is easy to turn, the unit should be further investigated by your Chrysler dealer. The unit is serviced only as a complete factory-built assembly, do 7 not attempt to dismantle or overhaul it. Removal and installation is as for a conventional differential but 8 never rotate one axleshaft if the opposite one is removed, otherwise the two splined segments with which the axleshaft engages will become misaligned and make re-engagement very difficult.

4 1 1

Limited slip differentials

A Sure-Grip or Track-Lok limited slip differential may be installed place of the normal differential on some models. A standard type differential permits the rear driving wheels to 2 rotate at different speeds while at the same time dividing the driving torque equally between them. The limited slip differential permits the 1

driving

then the limited

slip

type differential

is fitted.

12 Fault diagnosis -rear axle

Symptoms

Reason/s

Noise on drive or over-run

Low oil

level

Loose ring gear bolts Loose bearing cap bolts General wear

gearshift or

bearings or gearteeth

Seized, broken or

'Noise on turn

Knock during

in

when taking up d r ive

damaged

pinion side gear or thrust washers

Excessive ring gear to pinion backlash

Worn gears Worn axle shaft splines Drive pinion nut loose

Loose

Worn *This condition with limited slip differentials

may be due

ring gear bolts or bearing

side gear splines

to lack of lubricant or incorrect type of

oil.

cap bolts

Chapter 9 Braking system Contents Brake caliper - removal, servicing and installation Brake disc (rotor) - removal and installation Brake pedal and linkage - removal and installation Fault diagnosis - braking system Flexible hoses - inspection and renewal Front brake shoes (pads) - removal and installation General description Hydraulic system - bleeding Hydraulic system control valves

Master cylinder

-

removal and installation

3

Master cylinder

-

9

servicing

16 17

4 15 18

Parking brake - adjustment Parking brake - cable renewal Power brake booster (MasterVac)

11

and installation Rear brake drum - removal and installation Rear brake shoes - removal and installation Rear wheel cylinders - removal, servicing and

2 1

13 10 8

-

description, removal

Rigid brake lines

-

inspection and renewal

Front disc, rear drum, dual system. Brake booster on all models 1 00 Van. Cable operated parking brake to rear wheels.

except

Front brakes Calipertype

Chrysler sliding caliper

Piston diameter

3.10in(78.74mm)

Rotor (disc) diameter

100 and 200 300 and 400 Metering valve cut-in

11.75 in (298.45 12.82 in(325.63 1 17psi(807kPa)

mm) mm)

Rear brakes Type

100 and 200 300 and 400

Chrysler self-adjusting

100, standard differential

10inx2.5

Bendix self-adjusting

Size

200 and 00 with suregrip differential 300 up to 8800 lb GVW 400 and other 300 models Wheel cylinder bore 100 and 300 200 300 and 400 with dual wheels 1

in

(254

mm x 63.5 mm)

11

inx2.5in(279.4mmx63.5mm)

12 2

in x

3

in

0.875 0.938

in

(22.225 (23.825

1

in

1.0

x 2.5

in

in

mm x 63.5 mm) mm x 76.2 mm)

(304.8 (304.8

in

(25.4

mm) mm)

mm)

Master cylinder Type

100 and 200 300 and 400 Bore and stroke 100 and 200

300 and 400

tandem

Chrysler

Bendix tandem

.468

in

1.125x1.31

in

1

.03 x

1

62 x 32.29 mm) (28.575x33. 27mm) (26.1

Brake booster MasterVac

Type Outside diameter

100 and 200 300 and 400 Brake

fluid

type

9.38

in

8.81

in

(238.25 mm) (223.8 mm)

DOT 3 or SAE J 1703c

Torque wrench settings

Ibfft

Bellcrank push rod nuts

20 to 40 16 to 20 20 to 40

Brake booster attaching nuts Brake booster bracket attaching nuts

5

6 7

installation

Specifications

System type

14

Nm 27.2 to 54.4

21.8to27.2 27.2 to 54.4

12

Chapter 9 Braking system

166 Brake hose to wheel cylinder (caliper) Brake tube to wheel cylinder Caliper retaining plate screws Disc caliper adaptor to steering knuckle 1 00. 200 and 300 (| in diameter) 300 (f in diameter) Drum brake support plate mounting nuts 1 00 and 200 (f in diameter) 300single wheels (£in diameter) 300 dual wheels (y in diameter) Master cylinder attaching nuts

19 to 29

25.8 to 39.4

7 to 12

9.5 to 16.3

14 to 21

12to28.5

95to125 140 to 180

129 to 170 190 to 244

25 to 60 40 to 80 65 to 105 I 6.6 max

34to81.6 544 to 108.8 88 to 142 22.5 max

7 to 12

9.5 to 16.3

10.5 to 14.5 I I to 1 9

15

Tube nuts

Wheel

cylinder attaching studs

General description

1

The braking system is a dual hydraulically operated front disc drum type. A power brake booster is installed as standard equipment on most models in the range. The parking brake operates through a hand control and cable to (rotor) rear

the rear wheels.

Note: Take care not to spill brake fluid on the vehicle paintwork as cause permanent damage if it's not wiped off immediately.

it

14.3 to 19.7 to

25.8

7 Slowly press in the caliper piston, watching for any possible overflow of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. If this is likely to happen, syphon off a little. Installation is now basically the reverse of the removal procedure. 8 Make sure that there's no free play between the brake shoe flanges and the caliper fingers which could allow vertical movement; if necessary, bend the fingers slightly. Make sure that the dust boot isn't pulled out of its groove as the piston and boot slide over the inboard shoe, and that the inboard anti-rattle spring is installed on top of the

retainer plate.

will

3

Brake caliper - removal, servicing and installation

Front brake shoes (pads) - removal and installation

2

1

Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. Remove the roadwheel. Remove the caliper retaining clips and anti-rattle springs. 2 Slide the caliper slowly out and away from the disc. 3 Remove the outboard shoe by prying between the shoe and the 4 1

caliper fingers.

Support the caliper, then remove the inboard shoe. Check around the caliper for signs of fluid leakage;

5 6

evident, refer to Section 3 for servicing the caliper. dirt

away from

Blow

if

there's any

or brush any

the inside of the caliper before installing the shoes.

Remove

the outboard brake shoes (Section

To remove the

2).

on a clean lint-free cloth on the upper control arm. then carefully depress the brake pedal to push the piston out of the bore.

2

piston, support the caliper

To prevent loss of fluid, wedge the brake pedal down. If you're going to remove both caliper pistons, disconnect the flexible brake line at the frame bracket after removing the first piston. Plug the brake tube to remove the piston from the opposite caliper. 4 Disconnect the flexible hose from the caliper. Using the minimum of force, secure the caliper in a vise with jaw 5 protectors, then remove the dust boot. 3

RETAINER CLIP ANTI-RATTLE SPRING Fig. 9.1

Remove

caliper anti-rattle spring

Fig. 9.2

and retainer

clip

Removing outboard shoe

Chapter 9 Braking system

167

OUTBOARD SHOE RETAINER FLANGE Fig. 9.4

Bending retaining fingers

for

outboard shoe

INBOARD SHOE I

CALIPERS Fig. 9.3

Removing inboard shoe

WOODEN OR PLASTIC STICK

\

PISTON SEAL Fig. 9.6 Installing piston

Fig. 9.5

Removing

boot

a piston seal

Using a small wooden or plastic stick, work the piston seal out of groove and discard it. Clean all the parts in alcohol, and dry them with a clean, lint-free 7 cloth. Examine the piston and piston bore for bright wear areas, 6

its

BLEEDER CALIPER

ANTI-RATTLE SPRING

RETAINING

and corrosion, obtaining new parts as necessary. Make sure that the oil-ways are unobstructed. Dip a new piston seal in clean brake fluid and install it in the 8 groove. Make sure that the new seal is not twisted or rolled. scoring, pitting

Dip a new piston boot in clean brake fluid, then position it in the 9 groove at one point and work it round with the fingers. 10 Plug the high pressure inlet and bleed screw hole, then coat a new piston with clean brake fluid. Spread the boot with the fingers, work the piston into the boot and press it down. Unplug the inlet and bleed screw hole, then press the piston squarely to the bottom of the bore. 11 Installation of the caliper is basically the reverse of the removal procedure (Section 2). 12 Having installed the caliper, initially leave the bleed screw open and allow the caliper to fill with brake fluid from the master cylinder. When fluid seeps out of the bleed screw, tighten the screw and bleed the complete hydraulic system (Section 13).

CLIP

ADAPTOR

SHOE AND SHOE AND' LINING (INNER)

LINING (OUTER)

SCREW ANTI-RATTLE

O'

RING

RETAINING CLIP

SPRING

Fig. 9.7

Exploded view of brake caliper

168*

PISTON

BRAKE FLUID

WHEEL STUD

SPINDLE

OUTER BEARING

BRAKING DISC AND HUB

Fig. 9.8

Brake disc and hub - sectional view

Chapter 9 Braking system

4

Brake disc

(rotor)

169

- removal and installation

Whenever the brake shoes are renewed, check the condition of the same time. Light scoring is acceptable, but if the scoring is severe, or if the disc is warped or cracked, it must be renewed. 1

discs at the

If any distortion of the disc beyond 0004 in (0- 1 mm) is found, an automobile repair shop may be able to regrind the disc for you, provided that the disc thickness is not reduced to less than 1-24 in (31-5 mm) for 100 and 200 models, or 117 in (29-72 mm) for 300 and 400 models. Rusting on a disc surface will occur if the vehicle is not used for a 3 considerable time, but this is quite normal.

2

Remove Remove

the caliper (Section 2). the hub grease cap, cotter pin, nut lock, nut, thrust washer and outer wheel bearing. Pull the disc and hub off the wheel spindle. 6 If any servicing of the disc/hub is required, refer to Front Wheel 7

4 5

ADJUSTER SPRING

BRAKE SHOE WEB

ADJUSTING TOOL SCREWDRIVER

Bearings in Chapter 1 1 Section 1 4. Installation of the hub is the reverse of the removal procedure, but 8 refer to Chapter 1 1 Section 1 4 for the adjustment. ,

,

5

Fig. 9.9

Rear brake drum - removal and installation

Access

to the brake adjuster (Chrysler)

Chrysler type 1

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support remove the roadwheel.

it

on jack stands. Release

the parking brake and

2

Remove

the rubber plug from the rear of the support plate

LEVER

SCREWDRIVER

RELEASING TOOL

and

through the brake adjusting hole to push the the star adjusting wheel. Insert a second screwdriver or lever through the hole and engage 3 the notches of the brake adjusting screw; release the brake by prying insert a thin screwdriver

adjusting lever

downward. 4 Remove

away from

the brake

them, then take

off the

5

is

Installation

drum

drum

retaining clips

(if

installed),

and discard

drum.

the reverse of the removal procedure, noting that the

need not be used. To provide an initial adjustment method described in paragraphs 2 and 3, but turn there is slight rubbing as the wheel is rotated, then

retaining clips

of the brake, use the

the adjuster until

back it off slightly. 6 After lowering the vehicle to the ground, test drive it and operate the brakes several times to let them find their own adjustment.

Bendix type 7 Remove the axleshaft (Chapter 8). 8 Remove the outer hub nut after folding back the lockwasher Remove the tab washer, inner nut and bearing (photos). 9

If

the

drum cannot be

pulled

5.8a Removing the outer hub nut

off,

BRAKE BACKING PLATE

AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER LEVER

tab.

remove the hole cover on the

Fig.

9.10 Access to the brake adjuster (Bendix)

5.8b Removing the bearing

Chapters Braking system

170

ANCHOR PLATE

PRIMARY RETURN SPRING

SHOE TAB (3) CABLE GUir>E

PRIMARY SHOE AND LINING

SHOE RETAINERS,

ANTI RATTLE SPRING

AND SPRING NAIL ASSEMbLY

STRUT

5.10

Oil seal in rear of

brake drum

PRIMARY SHOE AND

SECONDARY PRIMARY RETURN RETURN SPRING SPRING ANCHOR

^^C

^H|

PLATE

SHOE TO SHOE SPRING

SHOE TAB (3)

/ /

V

SHOE RETAINERS,

SECONDARY

/*

LINING

CABLE GUIDE

PARKING BRAKE LEVER SHOE

AND

/

/

ADJUSTER SCREW ASSEMBLY A r) (STAR WHEEL) LE VER

SUPPORT

SPRING AND NAIL ASSEMBLIES

PLATE

LINING

LEVER SPRING

OVERLOAD SPRING

Fig. 9.1

1

Ten inch Chrysler brake

(left rear)

ANTI--«J"// RATTLE '

SPRING

PRIMARY SHOE RETURN SPRING

STRUT

PARKING BRAKE LEVER

TAB OF ANTI-RATTLE

TOOL REMOVING AND

SPECIAL

INSTALLING)

SECONDARY SHOE RETURN SPRING

SPRI

SECONDARY SHOE AND

SHOE TO SHOE SPRING

LINING LEVER SPRING

ADJUSTER

SUPPORT PLATE

SCREW ASSEMBLY

OVERLOAD SPRING Fig.

9.12 Eleven inch Chrysler brake

LEVER

(left rear)

SPRING backplate then use a screwdriver and light metal bar or rod to release the brake shoes (Fig. 9.10). Note that the drum is very heavy.

10 With the drum removed, wipe clean the bearing and inside of the hub with a lint-free cloth. Make sure that the bearing, hub and oil seal are undamaged then smear them liberally with a general purpose

ADJUSTER SPRING Fig.

9.13 Removing the shoe return springs

ADJUSTING LEVER (left rear)

-

Chrysler

grease (renew the seal

if there is any sign of grease leakage) (photo). basically the reverse of the removal procedure. Take care not to damage the oil seal as the drum is installed. Adjust the 1

1

Installation

is

wheel bearing before the axleshaft

is

installed (Chapter 8).

Rear brake shoes - removal and installation

spring overlaps the primary (front) one. Slide the eye of the automatic adjuster cable off the anchor, then 3 unhook it from the adjusting lever. 4 Remove the cable, overload spring, cable guide and anchor plate. Slide the adjusting lever forward to disengage it from the pivof 5 while working it out from under the spring. Remove the spring from

the pivot.

Chrysler type 1

2

Remove Remove

the brake

drum

(Section

5).

the shoe return springs, noting

how

the secondary (rear)

Remove the automatic adjuster spring from the secondary shoe 6 web, and disengage it from the primary shoe web. Remove the spring. 7 Disengage the brake shoes from the pushrods and remove the star

Chapter 9 Braking system

ANCHOR

PRIMARY SHOE RETURN SPRING

171

PLATE

ADJUSTER CABLE

TAB OF ANTI RATTLE

SUPPORT

SPRING

PARKING BRAKE PRIMARY SHOE

AND Fig.

SHOE CONTACT AREA (6)

CABLE

Fig.

LINING

9.14 Removing the brake strut and spring

(left rear) -

9.15 Shoe contact areas on support

Chrysler

-

Chrysler

ANCHOR

PRIMARY SHOE RETURN SPRING

SOCKET

WASHER

PLATE

TAB OF

SCREW THREADS

SPRI

NUT

BUTTON Fig.

ANTI-RATTLEI

9.16 Adjuster assembly

-

Chrysler

ADJUSTER CABLE r Retaining nail

wheel assembly from the shoes. Spread the ends of the shoes, and remove the parking brake lever 8 strut and anti-rattle spring. Remove the shoe retainers, springs and rails, followed by the 9

•

^"SHOE AND

AND

10 Disengage the parking brake cable from the parking brake 1

Inspect the

drums

for serious scoring.

If

this

is

LINING

PRIMARY SHOE

support.

1

secondary

LINING

lever.

present, the

drums

provided that this is kept below the maximum regrind diameter marked on the drum. Also check for signs of oil leakage from the axle, and hydraulic fluid leakage from the wheel cylinder. These items are dealt with in Chapter 9 and in Section 7 of this Chapter. When installing the brake shoes, lightly smear the six shoe contact 1 2 areas of the support plate with general purpose grease. 13 Install the parking brake lever on the inner side of the secondary shoe web after lubricating the pivot with a little grease. Secure it with

Fig.

9.17 Installing brake shoes

(left rear)

-

Chrysler

may be reground

wave washer and clip. 14 Engage the parking brake

the

lever, then slide the secondary shoe against the support plate while engaging the shoe web with the pushrod and against the anchor.

Slide the parking brake strut behind the hub and into the slot in the 1 5 parking brake lever, then slide the anti-rattle spring over the free end of the strut. On 10-inch brakes, the spring tab is pointing rearward and of the shoe web (left brake), and forward and the shoe web (right brake); on 1 1-inch brakes, the pointing forward, downward and inside the shoe web (left

upward on the outside

downward behind spring tab

is

and right brakes). 16 Slide the primary shoe into position, and engage it with the pushrod (where applicable) and the free end of the strut. Install the anchor plate over the anchor, then install the adjuster cable eye over the anchor.

17

Engage the primary shoe return springs

in

the

web

of the shoe,

install the free end over the anchor. 8 Install the cable guide in the secondary shoe web, and engage the shoe return spring through the guide. Install the other end over the anchor. Squeeze the ends of the spring loops around the anchor until

and 1

they are parallel. Make sure that the adjuster assembly is clean and that all parts are 1 9 lightly lubricated with general purpose grease. 20 Install the adjuster assembly with the star wheel next to the

secondary shoe (the left star wheel is marked L and is cadmium plated; the right star wheel is black and unmarked). 21 Install the adjuster spring between the shoes. On 1 1-inch brakes this has the coil forward, opposite the adjusting lever. 22 Install the adjuster spring over the pivot pin on the shoe web. Install the adjusting lever under the spring and over the pivot pin, then slide the lever rearward slightly to lock it in position. 23 Install the shoe retaining nails, retainers and springs. 24 Thread the adjuster cable over the guide, and hook the end of the spring

25

in

the lever. the brake

Install

Bendix type 26 Remove the

drum (Section

5).

brake drum (Section

5)

»

172*

9z

O XZ

a.

LU

< Ol

/|I

O z *

b

< CO

""N

Of LU to

-