Bau.Steine 3875154312, 9783875154313

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#will #teamspirit #respect #humility #skill #craft #loveofnature #serviceconcept #taste #pursuitofquality #attentiontodetail #creativity

>>DO THINGS WITH PASSION OR NOT AT ALL!DELUXE
build< has literally cleared some blockages in making his path. The art of cooking must move with the times. But the somewhat stiff presentation which used to be the norm in fine gastronomy created a blockage - going as far as to create a certain fear of entering the >Star temples< - particularly for those guests for whom pleasure without any feeling of compulsion is paramount. Until the Bau era began, in 1998 in >Victor's Gourmet-Restaurant in Schloss Berg< ... Because the development of >Victor's Fine Dining by Christian Bau< which has now been under his tried-and-tested management for 20 years, demonstrates that a finely balanced, natural nonchalance considerably increases enjoyment and it can nonetheless be accompa­ nied by outstanding perfection and exceptional creativity. The loyal long-standing guests and the continually growing crowds of new fans should be the highest compliment for him and also encourage him to continue with his love of experimentation and desire for maximum performance. The 3-star cook himself likes to describe his cuisine as light, contemporary and metropolitan. I am very happy to confirm that these attributes hold true. To you, the reader of this lovingly created book, I wish hours of interesting reading and lots of fun trying out one or another of these culinary surprises. My thanks go to Christian Bau for 20 years of pleasure at the highest level. And I'm looking forward to many more BAU.STEINE! Hartmut Ostermann Founder und Chairman of the Supervisory Board of the Victor's Group

SCHLOSS BERG

Schloss Berg, the small Renaissance castle in Nennig, is very close to the borders of France and Luxembourg. It has been home to the gourmet restaurant >Victor's Fine Dining by Christian Bau< since 1998. Here, Christian Bau and his dedicated team welcome their guests with great warmth.

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EXCERPTED DISHES

BAU • STEINE Hit-lists are not an option where issues of culture are touched on. Whether Monet should get more points than Matisse, whether Wagner should be ranked higher in the opera rankings than Verdi (and if so, where?) - there's no sensible answer to this. Naturally, the art of cooking it's just the same objectivity remains an illusion. Which, of course, doesn't mean that there are no benchmarks to measure from! If you follow the judgement of all the relevant publications, in 2018, Christian Bau is at the peak of culinary development in Germany. >Chef of the Yearmat< after each pacotiz­ ing. To serve, put the spinach mat with cream and butter in a pot and bring to boil. Season to taste with salt, pepper, brown sugar and nutmeg. If necessary, strain the puree in order to remove the remaining pieces of spinach.

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Chive foam

Garnish

4 shallots 2 cloves of garlic 6 mushrooms 1 bunch of spring onions 2 tbsp butter 100ml Noilly Prat 100ml white wine 1 L chicken stock (see page 345) 500ml cream Chive mat (see left) Salt, sugar, nutmeg Spinach puree (see left)

2 cloves of garlic Salt 500ml palm fat Pepper ½ bunch curly parsley 3 tbsp beech mushrooms 2 tbsp vegetable oil 3 tbsp kitchen-ready, gutted snails 1 tbsp herb butter ½ bunch enoki mushrooms 3 tbsp spinach puree (see left)

Finely chop the shallots, garlic, mushrooms and spring onions and saute in a little butter. Add Noilly Prat and white wine and boil down. Pour in the chicken broth and reduce by half, add the cream, simmer for 2-3 minutes and leave to stand on the edge of the stove for 30 minutes. Strain and place in Thermomix with 5 tbsp of the garlic chive mat. Mix on the highest/fastest setting and then strain again. Season to taste with salt, sugar and nutmeg. Shortly before needed, boil up again once, dye green with 1 tbsp of spinach puree and 2 tbsp chive mat, then season to taste. Then strain again.

Bread chips

TO SERVE

Spread the snails and mushrooms evenly on the warm chawanmushi. Pour over the warm chive foam. Serve a bread chip with garnish or serve separately.

Peel the cloves of garlic and slice them very thin with a truffle plane. Then blanch three times in lightly salted water. Lay on a kitchen towel and dry well. Fry the dried slices in 180 'C hot palm fat until golden, season with salt and pepper and then dry them for a further 3-4 hours on kitchen paper in a hot cupboard. Pluck, wash and dry the parsley and then fry in 190·c palm fat. Remove from fat after 1 minute, season and then also dry in the hot cupboard on kitchen paper. Saute the beech mushrooms in vegetable oil and season to taste. Saute the snails in herb butter in a Teflon pan, season to taste and glaze with the veal jus. Arrange all the ingre­ dients on the bread chips, together with the red enoki mushrooms and the spinach puree. Keep warm until ready to serve.

200g white bread 20g clarified butter Salt Cut off the crusts and then freeze. Using the slicer cut off 2 mm slices and cut out the right size to fit the china bowls. Place the slices of bread on a buttered Silpat mat, then cover with another buttered Silpat mat and weigh down with a tray. Bake in the oven at 200 ·c for around 7 minutes until golden. Season with salt.

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DI SH VI

BEEF FROM

JAPAN

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE WAKAME TRUFFLE

Black truffles Japanese sirloin steak Jerusalem artichoke Jerusalem artichoke puree Onion crumble Short ribs Vealjus Wakame and truffle vinaigrette White onion puree

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BAU.STEINE DISH VI

Christian Bau is proud of being the first German chef to work with Japanese beef. Even today he's still one of the only top chefs cooking with this meat. Whether sourced from Miyazaki, Kobe or Kagoshima, the in­ comparable texture and flavour of Jap­ anese beef demands an absolutely purist approach to presentation and preparation. Bau makes a humorous contrast to the beef with his baroque stew accompaniment: Wagyu short ribs. They melt in the mouth with a spicy, sweet soy coating. The ex­ tremely rich, tender meat is finely set off by the gentle acidic flavour of a truffle vin­ aigrette on a dashi base, which is given tex­ ture by crunchy Jerusalem artichoke cubes. A mild Jerusalem artichoke puree helps to bind it all together.

MENU

Short ribs

Wakame and truffle vinaigrette

Jerusalem artichoke puree

2L water 1 garlic bulb 200g seasoning salt 1 sprig of thyme 1 sprig of rosemary 1.8 kg of boneless Wagyu short ribs

60g light dashi (see page 47) 6g truffle juice (from conserved truffles) 8 g rice vinegar for sushi Xanthan gum 3 tbsp grape seed oil 3 tbsp hazelnut oil Salt, pepper, sugar 40g Wakame seaweed 250ml green tea 40g winter truffles, chopped 20g crunchy Jerusalem artichoke dice 10g chopped, roasted hazelnuts

600g Jerusalem artichoke 200ml milk 20ml cream Salt, pepper, sugar 2g xanthan gum

To make the marinade, stir the water, garlic and seasoning together. Then marinate the meat for 12 hours. Rinse off with cold water and then dry. Vacuum-seal and cook at 72 ·c in a bain-marie for 28 hours. Cool down in icy water. Cut the chilled short ribs into 3 x 3cm cubes and vacuum-seal. In order to serve, warm up for 12 minutes ° at 57 C in a bain-marie, then fry on all sides and coat with the soy glaze.

Soy glaze

PAGE 46

Bind the dashi, truffles and rice vinegar with some xanthan gum and pass through a micro-sieve. Make a light emulsion from both of the oils and season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar. Immerse the wakame seaweed for 12 hours in the green tea and then bring to the boil. Then pour away, dry off and chop finely. Then mix seaweed, truffles, Jerusalem artichoke dice and hazelnuts with the vinaigrette until smooth.

Peel the Jerusalem artichoke and cut into small pieces. Mix milk and cream in a pot and boil the peeled Jerusalem artichoke until soft. Pass through a strainer and then work into a smooth puree. Season with salt, pepper and sugar and, if neces­ sary, bind with xanthan gum. Put the puree into spray bottle and store at 65•c in a bain-marie until needed.

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DISH VI

BEEF FROM JAPAN

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE I WAKAME I TRUFFLE

Beef

Onion crumble

560 g Japanese sirloin steak, trimmed and kitchen-ready (preferably: Miyazaki) Salt, pepper Butter 1 sprig of thyme

1 white onion 750 ml vegetable oil 10 g almond splinters Salt, sugar, cinnamon

1 sprig of rosemary

Peel the onions and slice into fine rings, halve and then deep fry until golden brown in 160 ·c oil. Dry ° them overnight at 57 C in the dehydrator. Then brown the almond splinters and then cut them into evenly-sized squares. Chop the dried onions and mix them with the almonds. Season to taste with salt, sugar and a small pinch of cinnamon.

Season the meat on all sides with salt and pepper and sear on a 200 ·c griddle on all sides. Then in a 200 •c preheated oven and bring to a 38 •c core temperature and then rest in Hold-o-mat at 65 °C. As soon as the meat has reached a core temperature of 48 •c, fry off in foaming butter with thyme and rosemary. Smoke rapidly in Green Egg on all sides before serving. The meat should have a core temperature of 54 ·c when served.

Short ribs

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Braised Jerusalem artichoke balls 8 Jerusalem artichoke roots 1 shallot 1 tbsp sunflower oil 100 ml veal jus (see page 344) 15 g butter

Soy glaze 1g aniseed 1.5 g white peppercorns 2.5 g coriander seeds 0.5 g cloves 1 g Sichuan pepper 5 g Madras curry 2.5 g sweet paprika powder 1.5 g ground caraway 40 ml red wine vinegar 100 ml soy sauce 200 g honey

Form the Jerusalem artichoke roots into evenly­ sized balls. Cut the shallots into brunoise. Saute the shallot brunoise in oil in a small pot until colourless and add the Jerusalem artischoke. Then pour on the veal jus and cover everything with baking paper. Then braise for 9 minutes in an oven preheated to 200 •c. Glaze with butter to serve.

Jerusalem artichoke puree

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Jerusalem artichoke chips Grind all the spices in a mortar and then gently heat in a pot over a very low heat. Add red wine vinegar and reduce until almost all the liquid has dis­ appeared. Add the soy sauce and simmer gently for 25 minutes, then add the honey and simmer for a further 30 minutes until a gently bound glaze has formed. Then pass through a very fine sieve and keep warm.

4 Jerusalem artichoke roots 750 ml vegetable oil Salt Scrub the Jerusalem artichoke roots well with a vegetable brush under running water. Then wrap in aluminium foil and bake at 200 ·c in the oven on a tray for 6 hours. Then leave to cool and carefully remove the peel. Deep fry at 160 ·c, dry off on kitchen paper and salt.

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Artichoke crumble The peel of 4 Jerusalem artichokes 750 ml vegetable oil Salt, pepper, sugar Deep fry the peel at 160 ·c. Lay out on kitchen pa­ per and dry at 57 ° C in the dehydrator for 12 hours. Season to taste the dried peel with salt, pepper and sugar.

Light dashi 100 ml water 3 g dried wakame seaweed 3 g bonito flakes 1 tbsp light soy sauce 1 tbsp rice vinegar 1 tbsp mirin

TO SERVE

Saute the short ribs which have been heated in the bain-marie and coat with soya seasoning. Sprinkle some finely chopped chives and the onion crumble. Squeeze a dab of white onion puree on the glazed short ribs and place one of the pommes soufflees on top. Place the short ribs on a warmed plate. Arrange the Jerusalem artichoke puree, braised Jerusalem artichoke ball, the raw with shiso vinaigrette marinated Jerusalem artichoke, crum­ ble, chips and the fresh watercress in an attractive manner around the short rib. Place the wakame truffle vinaigrette in a ring in the middle of the plate. Then fry off the beef as described, slice and season with Malden salt and crushed pepper. Serve the veal jus separately in a gravy boat.

Heat the water in a pot to 70 •c and let the wakame seaweed stand in the hot water for 1 hour. Strain and heat again to 70 ·c. Then let the bonito flakes stand in the liquid for 1 hour. Then strain again and season to taste with soy sauce, rice vinegar and mirin.

Wakame truffle vinaigrette

PAGE 45

Garnish 8 traditional pommes soufflees 1 tbsp chives, finely chopped 4 Jerusalem artichoke roots for raw marinated slices and balls 2 tbsp shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) 100 g white onion puree (see page 266) 8 fine watercress tips Malden salt crushed black pepper 150 ml veal jus (see page 344)

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DISH VII

>SPRING AWAKENING< RHUBARB BERRIES BUTTERMILK

Bilberry sorbet Butter milk ice cream Butter milk jelly Raspberries Raspberry crumble Raspberry drops Raspberry gel Raspberry seed oil maltodextrin Rhubarb Rhubarb cream Rhubarb gel Rhubarb macaroons Rhubarb sorbet White chocolate crumble Yoghurt sponge

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BAU.STEINE DISH VII

Bau's aspiration to present outstanding products is not confined to the search for exotic ingredients. His goal at the beginning of the season is also to present the earliest and most eagerly-awaited fruit and vege­ tables of the season - asparagus, straw­ berries and truffles. The young rhubarb has relatively little colour at the beginning of April and quite a lot of acid but on the oth­ er hand they are terrifically tender. What is lacking in taste, compared to the older, less delicate stalks, can be compensated for by using sous-vide with a sweetened rhubarb stock. The colour in this light, spring des­ sert comes from a raspberry puree. The puree's acidity is softened by creamy but­ termilk.

MENU I

"Rhubarb jelly sticks

125g raspberry puree 65g rhubarb puree 50g sugar 5g pectin 12.5ml lemon juice 2 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed 125g rhubarb dice, poached Bring the fruit puree to the boil. Mix the sugar and pectin and add to the puree. Cook for 1 minute and then add lemon juice and gelatine. Then add the rhubarb dice, pour the mixture into the prepared rhubarb silicon moulds and freeze. Once frozen, release the shapes from the mould and store in freezer until required.

Buttermilk pearls

Rhubarb stock

50g egg yolk 50g sugar 1 g salt 100 g yoghurt 150g buttermilk 30g Yopol 250g cream 2 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed

150g rhubarb peel 100g rhubarb 250g sugar 500g water 2 limes ½ vanilla pod 1 ½ star aniseed 2.5g grenadine (Monin)

Heat all the ingredients except the gelatine to 60 ·c. Dissolve the gelatine into the mixture and then leave to cool. Using a spray bottle, trickle the buttermilk mixture into liquid nitrogen in order to make pearls. Then with a skimmer carefully remove the pearls, place them on a plate and freeze until needed.

Bring all ingredients to the boil, cover and leave to stand for 15 minutes. Then strain the mixture.

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DISH VII

>SPRING AWAKENING< RHUBARB I BERRIES I BUTTERMILK

Rhubarb sorbet

Raspberry drops

250 g rhubarb puree 250 g raspberry puree 75 g sugar 25 g glucose powder 250 g rhubarb juice

500 g frozen raspberries 50 g simple syrup (1:1) ½ vanilla pod 1 g xanthan gum

Heat all ingredients to 80 ·c. Freeze in a Pacojet container and pacotize as required.

Bilberry sorbet 45 g dry glucose 5 g Super Neutrose 125 g sugar 500 g red berry puree 300ml water 15 g inverted sugar Mix the glucose, Super Neutrose and sugar together. Heat the berry puree, water and inverted sugar to 45 ·c and then add the sugar mixture little by little. Heat to 85 ·c and refrigerate for 3 hours. Mix thoroughly after 3 hours and freeze in Pacojet containers. Pacotize once, pour into prepared raspberry silicon moulds and then freeze again. Once frozen, release the shapes from the mould and store in freezer until required.

Rhubarb jelly sticks

Rhubarb stock

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Rhubarb gel Put the raspberries with the syrup and the vanilla in a deep tin, cover with tin foil and then place in the oven at 120 •c for 1 hour. Then hang the raspberries for 12 hours in a cloth strainer. Bind the resulting stock with xanthan gum, pour into hemispherical silicon moulds and freeze. When the mixture is firm, release the drops.

Bring all ingredients to the boil and leave to cool in a container. Then mix the gel in Thermomix until smooth and strain.

Rhubarb drops

Stewed rhubarb

250 g rhubarb puree 25 g raspberry puree 80 g sugar 135 g butter 120 g egg yolk 60 g egg white 4 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed

200 g rhubarb Rhubarb stock (see page 51) 20 g rhubarb gel (see above)

Heat all the ingredients except the gelatine to 80 ·c. Then add the gelatine, pour the mixture into the cube-shaped silicon moulds and freeze.

Lemon jelly coating (for raspberry and rhubarb drops) 200g water 110 ml lime juice 1 g Citras 28 g sugar 25 g vegetable gelatine Bring all ingredients to the boil. Stick toothpicks into the drops and dip in jelly as soon as it has formed a skin. Remove the toothpicks, cover and refrigerate the coated drops.

500g rhubarb stock (see page 51) 6 g agar-agar 6 g gel Ian gum

Peel the rhubarb and cut into 3 x 3 cm cubes. Poach in rhubarb stock until al dente. Then strain in colander and dress with a little rhubarb gel.

Raspberry gel 500 g raspberry puree 5 g agar-agar 5 g gel Ian gum Bring all ingredients to the boil and leave to cool in a container. Then mix the gel in Thermomix until smooth and strain.

Buttermilk pearls

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MENU

Raspberry segments

Raspberry crumble

Rhubarb macaroons

100g raspberries 1 L nitrogen

100g flour 150g butter 70g sugar 100g Sosa raspberry crispies, finely mixed

100 g rhubarb juice 10 ml white balsamic vinegar 20g egg white 20g sugar

Put raspberries in container with nitrogen and then bash with scoop until broken into segments. Store segments in freezer.

Butter milk jelly

150g milk 40g sugar 3g agar-agar 50 g buttermilk 1 sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed Bring the milk with sugar and agar­ agar to the boil. Then stir in the buttermilk and the gelatine. Pour onto a greased tray and then leave to cool. Cut out 3cm diameter pieces as required.

White chocolate crumble

100g sugar 100g water 100 g white couverture chocolate Boil sugar and water to 130•c. Take off heat and add couverture. Stir until crumbs start to form.

Knead all the ingredients into a dough. Then make rolls out of the dough and freeze. Take out of freezer when required and make crumble with a grater. Lay on an baking tray and bake at 120 •c for about 15 minutes.

Yoghurt sponge

10g flour 30g sugar 150g egg white 32g almond semolina 30g Yopol Mix all ingredients in Thermomix until smooth. Put the mixture into an iSi-Siphon and load with 2 gas capsules then chill for 4 hours. Then put 3cm layer into a microwaveable container and then microwave at 800 watts for 45 seconds. Remove and after 2 minutes break into small pieces. Put pieces onto a baking tray and bake at 80·c for about 2 hours.

Beat all the ingredients in a mixer. Use an icing bag with a plain nozzle to create small macaroons on a Silpat mat and dry at 80·c for 12 hours in the dehydrator.

Rhubarb chips

2 rhubarb stalks 20g icing sugar Cut the rhubarb sticks to about 10cm long. Then with the peel, cut them lengthwise into thin pieces and lay on the Silpat mat. Dust them with icing sugar and dry in the oven at 70·c for about 12 hours.

TO SERVE

Lay out 2 drops of each variety op­ posite each other and decorate with silver leaf and macaroon. Sprinkle the rhubarb jelly stalks with raspberry crumble and then lay them opposite each other. Make two small piles out of raspberry Malto and make a hole in each one with a finger. Then stamp the stewed rhubarb with a small ring and lay on top. Cut out the same size of buttermilk jelly with a ring and lay on the stewed rhubarb. Then sprinkle the jelly with chocolate and raspberry sprinkles. Close up the gaps with macaroons and jelly dabs and decorate with cress and blossoms. Set the bilberry sorbet in the Malto and put a scoop of rhubarb sorbet on top. Then put the rhubarb chips on the ice cream. Lastly, spread the buttermilk pearls and raspberry seg­ ments and the yoghurt sponge around the edges.

Garnish

2 sheets of silver leaf 2 packs of atsina cress 1 pack of blossoms

Raspberry Malto

100g white couverture chocolate 7.5g raspberry seed oil 30g Malto 1 pinch of salt 50 g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers) Dissolve the couverture and mix with raspberry seed oil and Malto until bound. Finally add salt and the Eclat d'Or.

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DI SH VI 11

>SOUVENIR FROM ASIA< PAN DAN NASHI PEARS GINGER

Ginger ice cream Ginger macaroons Nashi pears Pandan cream Pear gel Pear-flavoured edible paper

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-- -- _..,.,...,.. nl"\l"'\T hu D

C.MU KOf.QED

DISH VII I

>SOUVENIR FROM ASI A< PANDAN I NASHI PEAR I GINGER

Pandan mixture

360ml cream 300ml milk The pulp of 2 vanilla beans 7 pandan leaves, finely-chopped 230g white couverture chocolate, liquid 120g egg yolk Bring the cream and milk to the boil together with the vanilla pulp and add the pandan leaves. Place in refrigerator and let stand for 24 hours. Then heat up the mixture gently and strain. Heat up 330g of the strained mixture in Thermo mix at 85 'C and mix in the liquid couverture. Then thicken with egg yolk. Pour the mixture into a terrine mould and wrap in clingfilm. Then cook in a bain-marie at 130·c for 2 hours. Remove, allow to cool and then warm in the Thermomix to 60 'C. Then pour into the moulds of your choice, ensuring that there are no air pockets.

Crunchy base

100g hazelnut praline 40g milk couverture chocolate 24g roasted almonds, chopped 24g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers) 16g Crue de Cacao (cocoa nibs)

250g white couverture chocolate 200g cocoa butter 4g white colouring (titanium dioxide) Melt the couverture together with the cocoa butter with a bain-marie. Mix in the titanium oxide and at 40 ·c load into an airbrush spray gun. Take the frozen gateaux carefully out of the moulds and spray them evenly with the spray. Then freeze the sprayed gateaux until ready to serve.

Ginger ice cream

250ml milk 250ml cream 30g fresh ginger, finely-chopped 130g sugar 120g egg yolk Bring milk and cream to the boil once. Then pour the mixture over the ginger and let stand for 4 hours. Then strain the mixture and mix with sugar in the Thermomix at 85 'C. Then thicken with egg yolk, pour into a Pacojet container and freeze. Pacotize as required.

Ginger macaroons

Melt the praline mixture together with the cou­ verture over a bain-marie. Fold in the almonds, Eclat d'Or and Crue de Cacao and spread the mix­ ture about 3mm thick on a tray covered with baking paper. Then press the same-sized bases on to the Pandan mixture in the silicon moulds leaving no air pockets and freeze for 12 hours.

2g fresh Ginger 100g apple juice 10ml white balsamic vinegar 20g egg white 20g sugar Grate the ginger with a microplane grater and mix with the remaining ingredients in the mixer. Use an icing bag with a plain nozzle to create small macaroons on a Silpat mat and dry at 60 ·c for 12 hours in the dehydrator.

MENU

200g pear puree 2.5 g agar-agar 2.5 g gel Ian gum 1 tsp lime juice Bring the ingredients to the boil while stirring and then leave to cool in a container. Then use the Thermomix to beat the mixture into an even smooth gel. Then pass the mixture through a fine sieve.

TO SERVE

Place a gateau in the centre of the plate. Spray different-sized dabs on the plate. Place the pear slices on some of the dabs of gel. Place a scoop of ginger ice cream on the plate and then decorate with ginger macaroons and pear cookies. Lastly garnish with atsina cress and gold leaf.

Pear cookies

50g pear puree 10g glucose 30g butter, liquid 20g icing sugar 30g flour 30 g egg white Put all the ingredients into the Thermomix to make a fine mixture and then spread a thin layer on a Silpat mat. Bake in the oven at 160 ·c for around 15 minutes until golden-yellow. Store in a dry place until needed.

Garnish

2 Nashi pears 1 pack of atsina cress Gold leaf Cut the Nashi pears into 2 mm thick slices and then cut out circles.

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BADEN

The motifs on Christian Bau's T-shirts come from a well­ known Black Forest clothing company. Bau is a Badener through and through. He speaks gently and melodically, and the closer to home the stronger the accent. Here in South-west Germany, in the >promised< land between the mild Rhine valley and the hills of the dark Black Forest lie not only his personal roots but also the roots of his own conception of cooking. There are three places which stand out particularly: Gutbert Fallert's >Talmiihle< in Sasbachwalden, nestled in the picturesque wine country between Baden-Baden and Offenburg, where Christian Bau, as he still accepts, learnt more than anywhere else: the art of great, clas­ sic sauces, the repertoire of French haute cuisine from the times of Careme through to those of Escoffier. Then, of course, the legendary >Schwarzwaldstube> in the

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>Traube Tonbach< hotel in Baiersbronn, where his eyes were opened by Harald Wohlfahrt, who introduced him to a hitherto unexpected degree of perfection. And lastly, the >Schwarze Adler< in Oberbergen, that jewel of tradi­ tion - perhaps the most enduring bastion of sophisticat­ ed culinary art on German soil. Bright yellow, it lies on the winding lane from Botzin­ gen to Burkheim, defiant and inviting at the same time, the image of a German inn. Immediate to the left of the porch stands the Stammtisch, scrubbed white, made out of ancient Kaiserstuhl sycamore. Here Bau is a guest. This is where the man that seeks his inspiration at Toru Okuda in the Ginza or from Cesar Ramirez in Brook­ lyn, always returns. At least once a year. W hy? Because here things are preserved that have largely been lost: the carving of large joints of meat, servers in black and white, the astonishing depth of the wine list, the ex­ traordinary hospitality of Bettina and Fritz Keller. But above all the heavenly dishes: Filet Rossini, Duck from the Dombe, Poulard en vessie with truffles. By the time they are on the A5, Bau's daughters already know what they want: Frogs' legs in garlic and parsley butter, tur­ bot on beurre blanc, poulet, and so it goes on. Bau says, »Then I know that I have done everything right!«

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BROWN CRAB XO CREME I SAKE GRANITA I JASMINE RICE

AIJ [JAPANESE JACK MACKEREL] APPLE I CAVIAR I CREME CRU

TORO TUNA HEARTS OF PALM I TRUFFLES I DASHI

DOVER SOLE SPICY GAZPACHO I FRESHWATER PEARLS I EXOTIC MOUSSELINE

KUROBUTA PORK [BACK AND TROTTER ] YAMS I EDAMAME I JAPANESE SANSHO PEPPER

PIGEON BLACK PUDDING I JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE I RED AROMAS

BLACK FOREST CHERRIES HOMMAGE TO BACK HOME

>RING OF DESIRE< P ISTACHIO I RASPBERRY I LIME

MENU II

DISH I

BROWN CRAB XO CREME SAKE GRANITA JASMINE RICE

Bonito vinaigrette Brown crab Dashijelly Dashi melon Jasmine rice crisps Nori seaweed crisps Sake granita XO creme

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BAU.STEINE DISH I

Brown crab - like hamachi - is an emblem­ atic product for Christian Bau. Right from the beginning, i.e. since 1998, it's been on his menu in widely differing versions. The current preparation is typical for Mr Bau's cuisine - a pan-Asian interpretation of an ultra-classical French product. In­ stead of mayonnaise, which accompanies the sometimes straw-like crabmeat on every plateau de fruits de mer, here we have an elaborate, slightly matured XO creme with a Chinese twist made of dried scallops, shrimp, shaoxing rice wine, chillies and air-dried ham. This creates an aroma explosion that goes outstandingly well with all kinds of shellfish or scal­ lops. A fully ripened dashi melon adds harmonic balance with its fruity sweet­ ness.

MENU II

Brown crab

Dashi melon

XO creme

240 g brown crabmeat, ready-prepared (cooked and shelled) 3 tbsp lemon vinaigrette (see page 348) 2 tbsp chives, finely chopped 2 tbsp blanched vegetable brunoise (carrots, celeriac, zucchini) Salt, pepper

½ watermelon 50 ml bonito vinaigrette (see below)

50 g egg whites 30 g XO mixture (see page 68) 80 ml chicken stock (see page 345) 2 tbsp shaoxing wine 2 tbsp fish sauce 2 tbsp mushroom soy sauce 10 g xanthan gum 20 ml XO oil (settles out on top of the XO mixture) 280 tbsp grape seed oil

Mix the brown crab with the remaining ingredients, season to taste with salt and pepper and weigh out 8 portions at 30 g each. Keep covered and cool until you are ready to serve.

Cut out a total of 16 pearls of 1 cm diameter and 24 pearls of 0.5 cm diameter from the watermelon. Vacuum-seal the watermelon pearls with the vinaigrette to 100 % and refrigerate for at least 3 hours.

Bonito vinaigrette 1 pinch of xanthan gum 150 ml sambai bonito vinegar 100 ml grape seed oil Mix the xanthan gum with the bonito vinegar and leave to soak. Then strain and add the grapeseed oil to make a finely beaded mixture.

Mix the egg-whites, the XO mixture, the chicken stock, the wine, the fish sauce, the mushroom soy sauce and beat them with the hand-held blender to form a mayonnaise. Add the oil slowly in this process. Let the mayonnaise stand for 1 hour, then strain it and refrigerate it until you are ready to serve.

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DISH I

BROWN CRAB XO CREME I SAKE GRANITA I JASMINE RICE

Brown crab

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Dashi jelly 200ml shellfish essence (see page 346) 20g kombu 1 tbsp bonito flakes 3 gelatine leaves, softened and squeezed Salt, cayenne pepper Mix the essence with the kombu seaweed and bonito flakes and heat to 80•c. Leave it to stand covered for 1 hour and then strain. Dissolve the gelatine in the mixture. Season it with salt and cayenne pepper and then refrigerate it. Once the mixture has gelled, press it through a cooled press and refrigerate it in an icing bag until you are ready to serve.

aig er tt e Bonitovin _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ =- _ _ _ _

_ PAGE 67

Dashi melon - - ---- PAGE 67 Nori seaweed crisps 100g sugar 20g lsomalt 5 0g glucose syrup 40ml water 2 sheets of nori seaweed Heat sugar, syrup and water together to 165 'C and allow it to cool on a silicon mat. Then grind it to a fine powder with the nori seaweed in the Thermomix. Using a round template (3cm diameter), sieve the powder onto a baking mat and melt in the oven at 220 ·c. Allow the chips to cool and store packed airtight with the desiccant until needed.

XO sauc e 65 g dried scallops 65 g dried shrimp 40g be I Iota ham 325 ml chicken stock (see page 345) 300ml sunflower oil 2 ½ chillies, finely diced 2 ½ finely-diced shallots ¾ garlic clove, finely diced 2 ½ tbsp shaoxing wine 2 ½ tbsp fish sauce 2 ½ tbsp mushroom soy sauce 2 ½ tbsp brown sugar 2 ½ tbsp chilli flakes In 2 different pots, bring about 300ml water to the boil. Add the scallops to one pot and the dried shrimp to the other one. Then take the pots off the heat and allow the contents to stand. Mean­ while, steam the ham in an ovenproof dish covered with aluminium foil for 15 minutes at 100 'C. Steam it in the combi-steamer. Then leave the ham to drain from a sieve and mix the liquid collected with the chicken stock. Remove the shrimp after 1 hour in hot water, allow to drain and chop them finely. Likewise, after 1 more hour, remove the scallops from the water, allowing them to drain. Chop them finely. Heat the oil to 107 ·c and then add the chopped scallops to the hot oil. After 5 minutes, add the chopped shrimps and cook for another 15 minutes. Add the Bellota ham and 3 minutes later add the cubed chilli and cook the entire dish for an addi­ tional 3 minutes. Then strain and cook the shallots ° and garlic in the same oil, also at 107 C, for 5 minutes until golden. Mix in the ingredients that were first fried with the ham, the chicken stock, the wine, the fish sauce and the mushroom soy sauce and stir in the sugar. Then reduce almost completely. Add the chilli flakes and put in a jar with the oil, the shallots and the garlic and allow to stand for 2 days.

XO creme

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MENU II

Sake granita 125ml sake 10ml yuzu juice 10g simple syrup 1 pinch of xanthan gum Bring the sake, yuzu juice and simple syrup to the boil, thicken lightly with xanthan gum and pour into silicon ball forms (1 cm. in diameter). Freeze for at least 12 hours and, when needed, release from the silicon forms while still frozen.

TO SERVE

Using a ring (6 cm in diameter), form the crabmeat on the plate and spread the dashi jelly over it about 2mm thick. Remove the ring and garnish the brown crab with XO creme and the dashi melon. Then add the vinaigrette to the plate, lay the rice chips and nori seaweed on top and arrange the sake granita in a visually attractive manner. Finally garnish with cress.

Rice chips 125g cooked jasmine rice 125ml water 1g Maldon salt 10g rice flour 2g wakame seaweed powder 500 ml Vegetable oil for deep-frying Salt Process all ingredients to a homogeneous mixture in the Thermomix at 90·c for 20 minutes and then spread out to a thickness of 2mm on a silicon mat. Dry at 50•c for 8 hours in the dehydrator. Break the chips into the desired size and fry them in vegetable oil at 230 ·c until golden. Season the chips with salt while still hot and keep them warm in a Hold-o-Mat until needed.

Garnish 1 pack of affilla cress 1 pack red shiso cress

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MENU II

DI SH II

AIJ [JAPANESE JACK MACKEREL] APPLE CAVIAR CREME CRU

Apple Gel Oyster cream Buttermilk dashi Creme cru ice beads Dill oil Gillardeau oysters Granny Smith apple Jack mackerel Imperial Osietra caviar Miso oil Passe-pierre tips Salty finger cress Wakame seaweed crisps

70 71

DISH II

AIJ [JAPANESE JACK MACKEREL] APPLEI CAVIAR I CREME CRU

Mackerel

Parsley powder

5 Japanese Jack Mackerel (Aij), 500 g each

500 g parsley 50 g wakame seaweed powder

Wash and fillet the mackerel. Remove the fillets from the skin, cut out the spine and extract the fat from the fish.

For the marinade and smoking 500g salt 250 g brown sugar 2 tbsp beech chips Mix salt and sugar dry and dry marinate the mack­ erel fillets for10 minutes in the marinade. Then remove it from the marinade and dry it off with kitchen paper. Cold smoke the marinated fillets for 11/2 minutes in the smoking oven with beech wood smoke.

Wash the parsley, remove the stems and dry it for 12 hours at 50 ·c in the dehydrator. Then mix the dried parsley with the wakame seaweed powder to a fine powder and strain it through a sieve. Sprinkle the marinated, cold-smoked mackerel fillets on one side with the powder and form them into a roll (6cm in diameter). When doing this, take care that the sprinkled side faces inwards. Then roll it up in clingfilm and fix it with aluminium foil. Store the prepared rolls for12 hours to allow them to bind. Before serving, briefly freeze the rolls and cut them into1.5 cm thick slices.

Buttermilk dashi 500 g buttermilk 8 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) Open the oysters and separate them from the muscle. Collect the oyster water and strain. Poach the oysters at 42 ·c for1 minute in the oyster water. Then remove the beard and slice each oysters into 3 medallions.

For the whey, freeze the buttermilk and let it thaw out on a cloth strainer. Collect the clear strained butter milk whey. Flavour the buttermilk as follows.

Flavouring of buttermilk whey 200 ml clear buttermilk whey (see above) 8g kombu 6g edamame, dried 1 g Shiitake mushrooms, dried 1.5 g ginger, dried 1 g garlic, dried 0.2 g xanthan gum 20 ml dill oil (see page 348) 10 ml miso oil (see page 348) Heat the whey together with the flavouring to 80 ·c and let stand for1 hour. Then strain it and thicken with xanthan gum. Mix the two oils together in a fine-beaded mixture before serving.

MENU II

Kimizu

Creme cru ice beads

120 g egg yolks 50 ml mirin 50 ml rice vinegar Salt

2 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed 50 ml lime juice 375 ml sour cream (10 % fat) 125 ml cream 40 g icing sugar 10 ml rice vinegar 2 splashes of green tabasco 5 g salt

°

Mix all the ingredients in a Thermomix at 85 C to a fine cream. Season to taste with salt and strain through a fine strainer.

Oyster cream

1 shallot cut into brunoise 2 tbsp vegetable oil 30 ml white wine 75 ml dashi (see page 347) 3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 90 g creme fraiche 10g chives 10 g coriander 1 stalk of parsley Agar-agar Gellan gum Saute the shallot until translucent, then add white wine and dashi and reduce. Add the oysters and the oyster water and bring to the boil once. Then immediately mix them with the creme fraiche, chives, coriander and parsley in the Thermomix. Then pass through a splatter sieve. Add 1 g agar-agar and 1 g gel Ian gum per 100 ml mixture. Bring the liquid to the boil again with the agar-agar and gellan gum and then let it form a gel. When cold, beat mixture into a smooth gel in the Thermomix.

Dissolve the gelatine in lime juice. Mix the remain­ ing ingredients and work in the lime juice. Using a spray bottle, trickle the mixture into liquid nitrogen in order to make the pearls. Then with a skimmer carefully remove the pearls, place them on a plate and freeze until needed.

TO SERVE

Place a ring from the mackerel roll in the centre of the plate and lay an oyster medallion on top. Arrange the remaining two medallions behind the mackerel roll. Dot the kimizu and oyster cream between the oyster medallions and garnish with salty fingers, passe-pierre, apple sticks and apple slices. Then garnish with the caviar, press in the wakame chip and drop the creme cru pearls loosely on top. Finally pour the buttermilk dashi all around.

Garnish

1 Granny Smith apple 1 tsp lemon vinaigrette (see page 348) 24 passe-pierre tips 16 salty fingers 16 apple blossoms 80 g imperial osietra caviar Cut 1 mm thick and 1.5 cm wide sticks from the apple and also cut 8 slices each (diameter 1 cm and 1.5 cm). Marinate in lemon vinaigrette.

Wakame chips

200 g boiled floury potatoes 200 ml water for boiling potatoes 20 g parsley, stalks removed 20 g chervil, stalks removed 1 g wakame seaweed powder Mix all the ingredients in the Thermomix at 70 ·c until they are smooth. Pass through a conical strainer. Spread the mixture thinly on a silicon mat and dry in the dehydrator for 12 hours. Then break into pieces of the required size.

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DISH Ill

TORO TUNA HEART OF PALM TRUFFLE DASH I

Heart of palm Heart of palm puree Truffle Truffle dashi Tuna belly sashimi Tuna belly tartare Tuna belly, grilled

DISH 111

TORO TUNA HEARTS OF PALM I TRUFFLE I DASHI

Toro tuna

For the belly piece

1 blue/in toro tuna at 800-1000 g (at least 20 x 10 x Bern in size)

8 tuna fish slices of 8 x 4 x 1.5 cm Salt, pepper

Cut the tuna fish belly as follows: 8 slices at 8 x 4 x 1.5 cm (for the belly piece) 16 strips of 2 mm thickness, 8 x 1.5 cm long (for the sashimi roll) 120 g rough cubes with 5 mm edge length (for the tartare)

Season the belly slices with salt and pepper and fry briefly on both sides in a hot pan. Then keep the fish warm in the Hold-o-Mat on a grate for 10 min­ utes at 65 ·c. Take out the tuna fish slices when they have reached a core temperature of 36 °C, then cut the edges cleanly and slice each belly slice into 2 squares halves.

For the sashimi roll

16 tuna fish strips, each of which is 2 mm thick and 8 x 1.5cm long 50 ml lemon vinaigrette (see page 348) Salt, pepper 100 g fresh heart of palm from Hawaii 40 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) Brush the tuna fish strips with lemon vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper. Slice altogether 192 sticks (2 x 2 mm wide, 3 cm long) from the heart of palm, marinate slightly in shiso vinaigrette and then roll up evenly as a bundle in the tuna fish strips. Keep covered and cool until you are ready to serve. Use the remaining heart of palm sections for mak­ ing puree (see right).

MENU II

For the tartare

Heart of palm puree

120 g rough cubes with 5 mm edge length 2 tbsp chives, finely chopped 1 tbsp minced truffle (see below) Salt, pepper

1 shallot 20 ml vegetable oil 1 kg fresh Hawaiian hearts of palm, minced 400 ml unsweetened coconut milk Salt, pepper, sugar

Mix the tuna fish with the chives and chopped truffles and season with salt and pepper. Weigh out 15 g portions and cut out using a cutter (diam. 2 cm). Keep covered and cool until you are ready to serve.

Truffle

Peel the shallots, slice them into a fine brunoise and sweat them in oil until they are colourless. Add the heart of palm, pour in the coconut milk and cook the heart of palm in it until it is soft. Then strain and process the mixture into a smooth puree in the Thermomix. Season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar. Strain again and warm up in a spray bottle in a bain-marie at 65 ·c.

TO SERVE

Form the tartare on the plate and arrange the filled sashimi rolls next to it. Attach the fried belly pieces and dot the heart of palm puree on the plate. Then lay the heart of palm wafers on top and distribute the truffle slices and truffle julienne over the tuna fish. Garnish with bean blossoms and atsina cress and at the end pour on the lukewarm truffle dashi.

2 truffle bulbs weighing 45 g (Perigord truffles or Australian winter truffles) Heart of palm wafers Clean and peel the truffles and slice them into 1 mm thin slices. Cut out a total of 16 >donuts< from the slices (diam. 2.5 cm and 1 cm). Cut fine julienne from the remaining slices. Keep the truffle donuts, the inner truffle slices and the truffle julienne covered and cool until required. Chop the remaining truffle finely and use for the tartare and truffle dashi.

Truffle dashi 150 ml dashi (see page 347) 50 ml juice of preserved truffles 1 pinch of xanthan gum 1 tbsp minced truffle (see above) 10 ml rice vinegar 10ml mirin Salt, pepper, sugar

100 g fresh heart of palm from Hawaii Salt, pepper, sugar 20 ml vegetable oil 20 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) Cut out 2 mm thick slices from the hearts of palm on the slicing machine and, using a cutter, cut out 8 rings each at 1.5 cm and 2.5 cm. Use the heart of palm sections for making the puree. Season the larger slices with salt, pepper and sugar, and lightly fry them in oil. Marinate the smaller slices in shiso vinaigrette.

Garnish 1 pack of atsina cress 8 bean blossoms

Warm up the dashi and truffle juice together (do not boil) and thicken them with xanthan gum. Add the chopped truffle and season with rice vine­ gar and mirin as well as salt, pepper and sugar.

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MENU II

DISH IV

DOVER SOLE SPICY GAZPACHO FRESH WATER PEARLS EXOTIC MOUSSELINE

Crispy spirals Dover sole Exotic mousseline Fragrant foam Herb salad Seawater tapioca Spicy gazpacho Vegetable pearls

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BAU.STEINE DISH IV

Christian Bau loves cooking fish on the bone in foaming salted butter, especially dover sole. It is lightly floured and thrives on the delicate roasting aromas and the juiciness which it gets so perfectly from this man­ ner of cooking. The classical sauce to go with this firm, flavourful fish is the creamy hollandaise, which is here exotically trans­ formed with rice vinegar, mint and fresh coriander. The green flavours that would be traditionally added by young spinach leaves become more poetic with the addi­ tion of oyster tapioca. Fresh water pearls, added to the maritime essence - spring onion, chopped oysters, iodine poaching liquid, all with a touch of ginger. The melt­ ing mousseline, the strength of the fish, the spicy mineral tone of the tapioca pearls that is a classical summer dish!

MENU II

Dover sole

2 whole fish: French dover sole, 900 g each Salt, pepper flour 4 tbsp vegetable oil 120 g butter Remove the skin of the sole from the head to the tail. Wash the fish and cut off the outer tail-fin and the head with kitchen scissors. Clean the fish and wash it out again. Pat it dry. Expose the backbone of the fish using a straight cut both on the back side and belly side. Then, using scissors, cut the fish in half along the backbone and remove the middle part of the spine. Portion the resulting fillets into 4 pieces of equal size per fish. Season them with salt and pepper and dust them lightly with flour. Fry the fillets in a hot Teflon skillet until they are golden. Now pour off the oil, add butter and baste the fish repeatedly. Then place the fish in a 190 'C oven for about 3 minutes. Remove the fish when it reaches a core temperature of 41 ·c and leave it to rest in a warm location (or in the Hold-o-Mat) for another 2-3 minutes. Separate the fish from the backbone with a sharp knife and place them on top of each other. Keep warm until served.

Oyster tapioca

60 g tapioca pearls 3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 1 tbsp finely-chopped spring onions 1 tbsp garlic oil (see page 348) 1 tbsp ginger oil (see page 348) 2 tbsp enoki mushrooms, 3 cm heads 1 tbsp finely-chopped chives Salt, pepper Boil the tapioca pearls for 8 minutes in water until soft, then strain and shock. Open the oyster and collect the oyster water. Then remove the beard and muscle from oysters and dice them finely. Saute the spring onions with garlic and ginger oil. Add the tapioca, the mushrooms and the oyster and boil down to a cream. Season with chives, salt and pepper.

Exotic mousseline

5 egg yolks 30 ml rice vinegar 20ml milk 190 g butter Salt, cayenne pepper 1 tbsp of chopped coriander 1 tbsp chopped mint Bring the egg white and vinegar to 65 'C in the Thermomix at a low setting and continue to mix for 5 minutes at this temperature. Then add milk and slowly add the butter in small pieces. Season with salt and cayenne pepper, pour into a small iSi­ Siphon and gas treat it with 2 capsules. Warm the siphon at 55 ·c for 30-40 minutes in a bain-marie. Before serving, spray the hollandaise into a warm saute pan and finish with the chopped herbs.

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DISH IV

DOVER SOLE

SPICY G AZPACHO I FRESHWATER PEARLS I EXOTIC MOUSSELINE

Dover sole

------PAGE 81

Exotic mousseline

- - - -----PAGE 81

Fragrant foam 100 g mushrooms 100 g shallots 1 clove of garlic, chopped 2 g kaffir lime leaves 30 g ginger, roughly chopped 1 stalk of finely-chopped lemongrass 2 tbsp mild curry powder 1 tsp ras el-hanout 100 ml Noilly Prat 200 ml chicken stock (see page 345) 200 ml unsweetened coconut milk Salt, pepper, sugar ½ tsp lecithin Roughly dice the mushrooms and shallots, sweat them together with garlic, kaffir lime leaves, ginger and lemongrass. Dry mix the curry powder and ras el hanout and dust the mix with it. Douse it with Noilly Prat and reduce by half. Pour in chicken stock and coconut milk and then reduce it again by a third. Then let it simmer for 1 hour, then strain it through a cloth sieve and season it with salt, pepper and sugar. Before serving warm to about 75 ·c, add the lecithin and make it into a stable foam with a hand-held blender.

Spicy gazpacho 15 Pimientos de Padron ½ cucumber about 1 g xanthan gum 20 ml Thai fish sauce 10 ml almond oil 10 ml lemon oil 5 splashes of green tabasco (Jalapeno) 10 ml lime juice 10 ml mizkan vinegar 1 tbsp parsley or spinach puree salt, pepper, simple syrup Cut the pimientos de Padron in half. Remove the seeds and wash them once in hot water. Then juice them with the washed cucumber. Thicken the liquid with xanthan gum. Strain and process them with the remaining ingredients. Season with salt, pepper and the simple syrup to a savoury sweet-sour and slightly hot flavour.

Oyster tapioca

PAGE 81

Oyster cream 1 shallot cut into brunoise Vegetable oil 30 ml white wine 75 ml dashi (see page 347) 3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 90 g creme fra1'che 10 g chives 10 g coriander 1 stalk of parsley Agar-agar Gellan gum Saute the shallot in oil until translucent, then add white wine and dashi and reduce. Open the oysters, then bring to the boil with oyster water. Then immediately mix together until creamy with the creme fra1'che, chives, coriander and parsley in the Thermomix. Pass through a conical strainer. Add 1 g agar-agar and 1 g gel Ian gum per 100 ml mixture. Bring the liquid to the boil again with the agar-agar and gellan gum and then let it form a gel. When cold, beat mixture into a smooth gel in the Thermomix.

MENU II

Herb salad ½ head of fine green frisee lettuce 1 tbsp parsley tips 1 tbsp chervil tips 1 tsp dill tips 1 tsp fine coriander leaves 10 tarragon tips ½ pack daikon cress ½ pack of red shiso cress 4 leaves of radicchio 50 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348)

TO SERVE

Make the oyster tapioca 1.5 cm deep on a plate using a ring (4cm diam.). Lay the sole on the tapioca and garnish it with the glazed vegetable pearls and the wild herb salad. Dot the oyster cream with the crispy spirals, and decorate it with the flowers. Arrange them around the sole. Finally add the fragrant foam on top of the tapioca and pour it on the spicy gazpacho. Serve the mousse­ line separately.

Mix the tips of the frisee lettuce with the herbs and the cress. Cut the radicchio lettuce into fine strips and add it to the mixture. Marinate everything in the vinaigrette and season to taste.

Crispy spirals 60 g flour 15 g Surprises Trisol 50 g tapioca flour 10 g egg whites 6 g salt 80 ml mineral water 1 tbsp chive oil (see page 348) 500 ml palm fat Dry mix the Surprises Trisol, tapioca flour, egg white and salt and use the mineral water to work all of the ingredients into a smooth batter. Then colour with the chive oil and fry in palm oil at 180 •c.

Garnish 1 tbsp carrot pearls (diam. 3 mm) 1 tbsp yellow carrot pearls (diam. 3 mm) 1 tbsp cucumber pearls (diam. 3 mm) 2 tsp butter Salt, sugar 8 borage blossoms 24 yellow marigolds 24 red marigolds 24 cornflowers Blanch the vegetable pearls in salted water until they are crunchy. Then glaze them with some butter, salt and sugar in a small pot.

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MENU II

DI SH V

KUROBUTA PORK [BACK [& TROTTER] YAMS EDAMAME JAPANESE SANSHO PEPPER

Edamame Japanese sansho pepper Pork back Porkjus Trotter croquette Yam puree Yams

84 85

DI SH V

KUROBUTA PORK [BACK & TROTTER] YAMS I EDAMAME I JAPANESE SANSHO PEPPER

Pork back

Trotter praline

1 piece pork back at 1.4 kg (Kurobuta pork, or: Berkshire pork) Salt, freshly ground Japanese sansho pepper 2 tbsp vegetable oil 50 g butter 1 clove of garlic, crushed 2 thyme sprigs

1 L water 50 g pickling salt 20 g salt 2 bay leaves 2 cloves 2 thyme sprigs 10 peppercorns 10 juniper berries 2 cloves of garlic 4 pig's trotters 150 g root vegetables, roughly chopped (shallots, carrots, celeriac) 1 tsp Japanese mustard Salt, pepper, sugar flour 2 egg whites 5 sheets of filo pastry, cut into fine flakes (3 x 3 mm) 500ml palm fat

Prepare the pork back, portion into 4 slices at 220-230 g each and tie them together with string. Use the trimmings to make a jus. Season the meat with salt and pepper. Sear it on all sides in oil in a hot pan and then continue to cook it on a grill in the oven at 200 ·c for 3 more minutes. Then let the meat rest in the Hold-o-mat at 62 ·c for 10 minutes. Before serving, foam up the butter in a pan, add the garlic and thyme and baste the meat in it until it reaches a temperature of 54 ·c. Let the meat stand again at 62 •c in the Hold-o-mat for 10 min­ utes and then briefly fry off on all sides on the grill plate or in a pan. Carve before serving.

Pickle the trotters for 24 hours in a mixture of water, pickling salt, bay leaves, cloves, thyme, peppercorns, juniper and garlic. Then remove and boil in salted water until soft along with the root vegetables. Take the trotters out of the water, detach the meat from the bones and, when cooled, cut into fine dice. Make sure that cartilage and tendons are removed. Then warm up the diced meat again in a pot with some stock and season with mustard, salt, pepper and sugar. Roll the mixture in clingfilm into rolls while it's still hot (2.5 cm diameter) and then refrigerate. Slice the cooled rolls into 1.5 cm thick slices and dust lightly with flour. Beat the egg white to a fine foam, dip the pig trotter slices in the egg white then carefully bread them in the filo pastry flakes. Before serving, fry them at 180 ·c in palm oil for approx. 90 seconds until golden and crispy.

MENU II

Yams 100g root vegetables, finely chopped (carrots, celeriac, shallots) 3 tbsp vegetable oil 400g trimmings from Kurobota pork (see left) 100ml red port 50ml Noilly Prat 50ml madeira 500ml veal jus (see page 344) Salt, freshly ground Japanese sansho pepper 1-2 pinches of xanthan gum 30g cold butter Fry the vegetables in a pot with oil without letting them change colour, add the meat trimmings and cook at medium heat until there is a slight col­ ouring. Add the alcohol and reduce to a third. Then fill to the top with veal jus and leave to simmer lightly for 2 hours. Then strain and reduce it to 150-170 ml. Season to taste with salt and pepper and, if necessary, thicken with xanthan gum. Add the cold butter before serving.

2 medium-sized yams (about 250g peeled) 1 L palm oil for deep-frying 3 tbsp traditional tempura batter 400ml water 8g instant dashi powder 1 pinch of Japanese sansho pepper 10g ginger 100g sugar 100ml mirin 200ml low-salt soy sauce

TO SERVE

Lay the sliced meat in the centre of the plate and season with Japanese sansho pepper and Maldon salt. Arrange a circle of glazed yams, edamame and yam puree around the meat. Lay a pig foot praline on the meat and garnish the plate with chickweed. Finally, pour the jus into the circle, generously around the meat.

Deep fry the whole peeled yams in oil at 180 'C un­ til golden. Then fry the tempura batter until golden. Bring the water to the boil with the dashi powder and leave to stand for 15 minutes. Then add the remaining ingredients except for the yams and re­ duce to a third. Add the yams to the hot stock and refrigerate, covered, for 24 hours. Then remove from the stock and cut into shapely balls. Strain the stock and glaze the yams in it.

Garnish Yam puree 1 finely-diced shallot 3 small mushrooms, finely diced 2 tbsp butter 350g yams, peeled and finely diced 2 tbsp white port 4 tbsp Noilly Prat 100ml chicken stock (see page 345) 150ml cream Salt, pepper, nutmeg, sugar

Japanese sansho pepper and Maldon salt 80 shelled edamame beans (heated in court bouil­ lon, glazed with some butter and seasoned) 48 chickweed tops

Saute the shallots and mushrooms in butter, then add the yams and briefly cook together. Add the port and Noilly Prat and reduce to a third. Fill to the top with chicken stock and cook the vegetables until soft with the lid on. Meanwhile boil down the cream until thick and then blend with the vege­ tables in the Thermomix to a smooth puree. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and sugar. Then strain the puree through a sieve and keep hot in a spray bottle in the bain-marie at 66 ·c until use.

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MENU II

DISH VI

PIGEON BLACK PUDDING JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE RED AROMAS

Berries Black pudding cream Jerusalem artichoke crisp Jerusalem artichoke puree Jerusalem artichoke ragout Jerusalem artichoke, raw, marinated Pigeon Pigeon jus Red fruit gel

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BAU.STEINE DISH VI

Pure gustatory harmony: Opulence and animal power. No sharp contrast, no sur­ prise thrills. Just good flavour. And also an ultra classical preparation: Blood and foie gras cooked in the pigeon jus until clear not as heavy as a rouennaise sauce, but still very elegant. Served with the intense black pudding mousse; a sweetness, a mineral flavour, a melting texture. The pigeon breast is pink and crisp, roasted on the bone, basted with foamed butter, a twig of rosemary and a stalk of thyme. The result: Super-crispy golden skin, juiciness, abun­ dance and depth of flavour from the sauce. And what about fruit and tensioni What else but a perfect pinot noir to go along with iti

MENU II

Pigeon breast

Pigeon jus

Black pudding cream

_P_gi _e_o___ n

100 g mirepoix (shallots, carrots, celery stalks) 2 finely diced mushrooms 4 tbsp vegetable oil 4 pigeons, cut into walnut-sized pieces 2 bay leaves 10 white peppercorns 3 cloves of garlic 1 sprig of thyme 75 g foie gras 50 ml madeira 60ml cognac 60 ml red wine 120 ml red port 500 ml chicken jus (see page 345) 50 ml pig's blood 1 pinch of xanthan gum Salt, pepper 50 g cold butter

400 g high quality black pudding 75 ml unfiltered apple juice 20 g vegetarian gelatine (Sosa) 1 pinch of xanthan gum 1 tbsp Calvados Salt

PAGE 92

Mix the black pudding in the Thermomix for about 10 minutes and warm up to 50 'C. Then strain the homogenous mixture through a micro-sieve. Add apple juice and gelatine and bring to the boil. Allow the mixture to gel in a container and process again in the Thermomix at 60"C until smooth. Season with calvados and salt and, if necessary, thicken with xanthan gum. Put the mixture into spray bottles and store at 62 'C in a Hold-o-Mat until needed.

Fry the vegetables in a pot with oil without letting them change colour, add the meat trimmings and cook at medium heat until they start to change colour. Add the seasonings and the goose liver, and briefly cook together. Then add the alcohol and reduce by two thirds. Then pour in the chicken jus and add the blood. Leave the jus on a low simmer for 3 hours, then strain through a fine sieve, reduce to 150-170 ml and thicken with xanthan gum. Season with salt and pepper before serving and add in the cold butter.

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DISH VI

PIGEON BLACK PUDDING I JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE I RED AROMAS

Jerusalem artichoke puree 4 pigeons, weighing 680g each with heads and claws, well hanged (preferably from Theo Kieffer in Alsace) Salt, pepper 8 tbsp vegetable oil 500g goose fat 100g butter 2 thyme sprigs 1 sprig of rosemary Remove the legs from the pigeons and cut them in half so that the backbones can be removed while leaving both breasts attached to the bone. Remove innards and blood, dry with kitchen towel and clean. Pluck any remaining feathers and feather shafts. Cut the claws off the legs and pluck out any last feathers and feather shafts. Season the legs with salt and pepper and sear on the skin side with 4 tbsp oil. Turn briefly and then cook as a confit in the oven at 80 ·c immersed in melted goose fat for 6 hours. Release the hip bones from the leg confits. Before serving, fry the legs in oil, primarily on the skin side, in a Teflon pan until crispy. Season again . Season the pigeon breasts with salt and pepper and sear the skin side with 4 tbsp oil, the reduce the heat and add butter as well as thyme and rosemary. Baste the pigeon with the foamed butter, then put in the oven for 4 minutes at 200 ·c and then let it rest in the Hold-o-Mat for 35 minutes at 62 •c. Before serving, baste the pigeon breast again in butter until a core temperature of 52 •c has been reached. Finally sear the breast side with a culinary torch and so crisp it up, then cut from the bone. Cut in half lengthwise and serve.

P i ge _s � _o _n�ju__ _�

600g Jerusalem artichoke 200ml milk 20 ml cream Salt, pepper, sugar 2g xanthan gum Peel the Jerusalem artichoke and cut into small pieces. Mix milk and cream in a pot and boil the peeled Jerusalem artichoke until soft. Pass through a strainer and then work into a smooth puree. Season with salt, pepper and sugar and, if neces­ sary, thicken with xanthan gum. Put the puree into spray bottle and store at 65 ·c in a bain-marie until needed.

Jerusalem arti choke chips 300g Jerusalem artichoke 100ml still water 1 pinch of xanthan gum 500ml palm fat Salt Wash the Jerusalem artichoke, brush clean and steam at 100•c in the convection oven for 1.5 hours. Then scrape the flesh from the skin and mix 150g flesh with 150g peel, water and xanthan gum in the Thermomix until fine and then strain. Add half the strained residue back to the strained mixture and stir until smooth. Then spread the mixture 2mm thick on a silicon baking mat and dry for 2 hours at 110·c in the convection oven. Then break off a piece of 5 x 5 cm, fry in 170·c hot oil and form into little baskets using a cork. Allow the fat to drip off onto kitchen paper, season with salt and keep in the Hold-o-Mat until required.

PAGE 91 Bla ck pudd ing cream

PAGE 91

MENU II

Cassis gel 200g cassis puree 50g raspberry puree 20ml Creme de Cassis 30ml blackcurrant juice 3g agar-agar 3g gellan gum Mix all ingredients together an process to a smooth jelly in the Thermomix.

Jerusalem artichoke garnish

TO SERVE

Carve the pigeon breast and place on the plate. Dot the black pudding cream on the plate and lay on the Jerusalem artichokes. Place a Jerusalem artichokes basket on the plate and fill with Jerusalem artichoke ragout so that the basket is half-filled. Arrange the balls attractively and garnish the plate with Jerusalem artichoke puree, cassis gel and the berries. Then decorate with mizuna tips and lay the crispy pigeon leg on top. Pour the pigeon jus around it.

4 large Jerusalem artichokes 20ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) 1½ tbsp vegetable oil Salt, pepper Wash the Jerusalem artichoke and brush clean. Then halve the 2 Jerusalem artichokes lengthways and cut out sixteen 1 mm thick slices from the cut side. Cut the ends of the Jerusalem artichokes in 2 mm thick slices and cut into 8 slices each with 1 m and 2 m diameters using rings to help the cutting. Make incisions into the 1 mm thick slices to the middle, marinate in shiso vinaigrette, salt lightly and roll into balls. Also marinate the cut out slices in shiso vinaigrette and salt lightly. Peel the remaining Jerusalem artichokes and cut into brunoise with an edge length of 3 mm; shortly before serving saute in a Teflon pan in some oil and season with salt and pepper.

Garnish 4 juniper berries, quartered 8 blueberries, halved 16 mizuna tips

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DISH VI I

BLACK FOREST CHERRIES HOMMAGE TO THE HOMELAND

Cherry air Cherry ragout Cherry sorbet Chocolate crumble Chocolate mousse Crunchy pearls Kirsch foam

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BAU.STEINE DISH VII

When Christian Bau speaks about his homeland, he goes into rhapsodies. Ba­ den, the Black Forest, the gentle hills on the edge of the Rhine valley. Bacon, trout, Black Forest gateau ... what the madeleine was for Proust, for Bau is this most famous of German cakes - a timelessly perfect combination of plain dark chocolate, high­ ly aromatic kirsch, fruity cherries with a perfect balance of sweet and sour and cool cream. The one problem with the Black Forest gateau is that nobody can manage it at the end of a large meal ... Since 1998, Bau has been tinkering around to make a perfect miniature. Here he shows the three basic components which also stand on their own; a perfect fruit sorbet, an aromatic chocolate mousse and a kirsch foam, which one could as easily imagine on top of a juicy fruit pie.

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Cherry sorbet

Chocolate mousse

Kirsch foam

250g cherry puree 60ml water 15g inverted sugar 1.2 g Super Neutrose 15g sugar

400ml cream 150g dark couverture chocolate 3 egg yolks 50g sugar 1 whole egg

500ml milk 50g glucose The pulp of 1 ½ vanilla pods 2 00ml cream 5 tbsp Xanthazoon

Heat all ingredients to 60 •c. Put in a Pacojet container and freeze. Pacotize as required.

Beat the cream and melt the couverture choco­ late over a bain-marie. Beat the egg yolk with the sugar in a bain-marie until it has reached a tempe­ rature of 40'C. Then take the mixture out of the bain-marie and beat again until cold. Then fold the chocolate into the egg mixture and finally fold in the cream. Store in a cool place until needed.

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375g white couverture chocolate 125ml kirsch Bring the milk to the boil with glucose, vanilla pulp, cream and Xanthazoon. Then add the couverture chocolate and the kirsch. Put the mixture into an iSi-Siphon and load with 2 gas capsules.

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DISH VII

BLACK FOREST CHERRIES HOMMAG E TO THE HOMELAND

Cher ry or et _ _ _ _ _ _s _ _b_ _ __ PAGE

97

Cherry i a r 445 ml cherry juice 5 ml red food colouring 1.2 g xanthan gum 3g Emulzoon 3g Suero Mix all ingredients with a hand-held blender until the thickener has completely dissolved. Finally refrigerate the mixture for at least 4 hours. If required, foam up with the hand-held blender.

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Cherrygel 500 g cherry puree 6 g agar-agar 6 g gel Ian gum Bring all ingredients to the boil. Then refrigerate and leave to gel. Then use the Thermomix to work the cooled mixture into a smooth gel and strain.

Cherry r g a out 10 cherries, stones removed 10 g cherry gel (see above) Cut the cherries into fine dice and marinate with the cherry gel. Store in a cool place till needed.

Kirs h c foam

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Chocolate crumble

350g flour 250g butter 100g sugar 75g cocoa powder Work together all ingredients with your hands until a fine crumble has formed. Then spread out evenly on baking trays covered with baking paper and bake at 180•c for 15 minutes.

TO SERVE

First arrange the chocolate mousse in a glass dish. Then layer cherry ragout, chocolate crumble and crispy pearls in equally thick layers, one after the other. Finally serve the kirsch foam on top and place a scoop of cherry sorbet on top. Complete with the frothy cherry air.

Crunchy pearls

100g crunchy pearls (Valrhona) 5g silver powder Colour the crispy pearls with the silver powder and store cool.

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DI SH VI 11

>RING OF DESIRE< PISTACHIOS RASPBERRIES LIMES

Chocolate raspberry biscuits Lime cress Lime drops Lime gel Lime parfait ball Pistachio cream Pistachio sponge Raspberry dashi Raspberry gel Raspberry segments Raspberry sorbet

DISH VIII

>RING OF DESIRE< PISTACHIO I RASPBERRY I LIME

Pistachio milk

Spray for pistachio gateau

Raspberry gel

115ml milk 130 ml cream 115g pistachios

150g white couverture chocolate 125 g cocoa butter 8g white colouring (titanium dioxide)

250g raspberry puree 3g agar-agar 3g gel Ian gum Juice of ½ lime

Bring all ingredients to the boil. Refrigerate the mixture for 24 hours. Then strain the mixture.

Melt the couverture chocolate and the cocoa butter. Mix in the titanium oxide and pour into an airbrush pistol which has been warmed to 40 ·c and spray the frozen gateau evenly with it.

Pistachio mixture 140ml pistachio milk (see above) 115g white couverture chocolate 25g pistachio pulp 50g egg yolks Heat the pistachio milk in Thermomix to 85·c. Then add the couverture chocolate and the pistachio pulp and mix it all to a homogeneous mixture. Then thicken with egg yolk. Put the mixture in a terrine form, wrap in cling film and cook in a bain-marie in the oven at 130•c for 2 hours. Then remove the mixture from the bain-marie and leave to cool in a cooling house. Then mix in the Thermomix at 50 •c and pour into silicon ring forms without creating air bubbles.

Crispy gateau base 113g white couverture chocolate 11ml walnut oil 11 g caramelised pistachios, chopped 34g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers) Melt the couverture chocolate and the walnut oil in the bain-marie. Then fold in the pistachios and the Eclat d'Or. Spread the mixture around 3mm thick on a pan covered with baking paper and freeze. Cut the fro­ zen base to the appropriate size. Then press into the ring-form without letting any air enter and freeze for at least 2 hours.

Bring the ingredients to the boil while stirring and then leave to cool in a container. Then, use the Thermo­ mix to beat the mixture into an even smooth gel. Finally, strain.

Raspberry sorbet 500g raspberry coulis 125ml water 110g sugar 30g dry glucose Heat all ingredients to 85•c. Put into 2 Pacojet containers and freeze. Pacotize as required.

>Fake< raspberries 1 Pacojet beaker of raspberry sorbet (see above) 1 silicon raspberry mould mat After pacotizing, pour the raspberry sorbet into a spray bottle. Fill up the previously frozen raspberry mould with it and distribute into the shapes using a toothpick so that they are completely filled without air bubbles. The freeze for at least 4 hours. Release the raspberries from the mould and keep frozen until serving.

7 g kaffir lime leaves 12 g lemongrass 125ml Riesling 220ml lime juice 65ml water 83g sugar 3g agar-agar 3g gel Ian gum Finely slice the lime leaves and lemon­ grass. Bring all the ingredients to the boil except for the agar-agar and the gellan and pour over the lime leaves and lemongrass, then leave to stand for 24 hours. Then strain and bring to the boil with agar-agar and gellan. Pour into a glass dish and use the Thermomix to beat the mix­ ture into an even smooth gel. Finally, strain again.

Chocolate raspberry biscuits 250 g white couverture chocolate 25g raspberry crispy (Sosa) Warm up the couverture chocolate. Fold in the raspberry crispy and spread out on film to a thickness of 3 mm. Form with a 3cm diameter ring.

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Pistachio sponge

Spray for lime parfait

Raspberry dashi

85g pistachios, ground 125 g egg whites 80g egg yolks 82g sugar 20g flour 12 ml olive oil

150g white couverture chocolate 125 g cocoa butter 3g green food colouring

250g frozen raspberries 25ml simple syrup ( 1:1) 12 g raspberry syrup (Monin) ½ vanilla pod 1ml raspberry seed oil 10ml grape seed oil

Mix all ingredients at level 10 in the Thermomix for 4 minutes. Put the mixture into an iSi-Siphon, load with 4 gas capsules and refrigerate for 12 hours. Fill a plastic beaker one quarter full with it and cook for about 40 seconds in the microwave at 1000 watts. Allow the sponge to cool and shape to the desired size.

Lime parfait 75ml lime juice 25ml orange juice 50g sugar 2 gelatine leaves 15ml almond syrup 110g egg whites 60g sugar 75ml cream, whipped

Melt the couverture chocolate and cocoa butter with the food colouring. When warmed to 38-40•c, fill into an airbrush pistol. Spray the frozen lime parfaits evenly with the pistol.

Lime drops 128ml lime juice 125ml white wine 60ml water 45g sugar 25 g basil 6g kaffir lime leaves 6g lemongrass Zest of ½ untreated lime Bring all ingredients to the boil and leave to stand for 12 hours. Then strain and pour into small silicon ball-shaped forms. Freeze in the blast freezer.

Marinate the raspberries with simple syrup and raspberry syrup. Add to a deep pan with the vanilla pod and cover with aluminium foil. Cook in the oven at 120·c for 1 hour. Then leave suspended in a cloth strainer for 12 hours. Finally work both oils into the juice collected.

TO SERVE

Lay the sprayed ring on the pre­ cooled plate and warm for 8 minutes. Decoratively arrange all the com­ ponents in a circle on the pistachio ring. Finally place on each a >fake< raspberry and a scoop of raspberry sorbet and - when next to the guest pour the raspberry dashi in the centre of the ring until the bottom of the plate is evenly covered.

Raspberry segments 1 punnet fresh raspberries Blast freeze the whole raspberries in liquid nitrogen. Then wrap in a cloth and beat so that the individual segments break up. Freeze until ready to serve.

Garnish Warm up lime juice, orange juice and sugar. Soak the gelatine in ice-cold water. Stir the almond syrup into the warm liquid and refrigerate. Beat the egg white with the sugar and fold into the cooled liquid. Fold in the whipped cream and fill into ball shape of 3cm diameter. Freeze in the blast freezer.

Coating for lime drops 150ml water 80ml lime juice 20g sugar 20g vegetarian gelatine (Sosa) 1g Citras

1 pack lemon cress 8 fresh raspberries, without tops

Bring all ingredients to the boil. Push a toothpick into the centre of the lime drops and while still frozen, dip them carefully into the coating. Allow the drops to thaw then remove the toothpicks.

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PARIS

Many so-called truths are quite straightforward: France is the home of classic European haute cuisine. It is now protected as part of the Unesco World Cultural Heritage. French cuisine is still the undisputed basis of Christian Bau's creative work. Ever since he was an apprentice, Bau used to cross the Rhine to the Strasbourg market to fetch Breton oysters, foie gras, wood-pigeon, comte and buckets of creme fraiche. More importantly, a world of tastes in his head and tongue, an understanding of har­ mony and good flavour became part and parcel of his culinary thought process that even the most relentless trends, the most renowned fashions couldn't shake. Bau's cuisine, one might posit, is still fundamentally French today. Unlike so many masters of French haute cuisine, however, he manages to allow outside influ­ ences - particularly those from Asia - to flow into his dishes and to blend with the French foundations of his

cuisine on an equal footing. That becomes apparent, for example, in his sauces. Naturally Christian Bau makes sauces only out of the carcasses and offcuts of the meats and fish with which they are to be served - preferably made with butter. But if a Langoustine Royale is to be served with a beurre blanc, then it will be made on a dashi base made from kombu, bonito flakes, rice vine­ gar and mirin, which could hardly be a more beautiful way to set apart the crustacean. And he does this not as an exotic gimmick, but as a thought-through, highly elegant and personal take on the classic repertoire. Christian Bau is convinced that this classic repertoire can be found in its purest form at Bernard Pacaud's res­ taurant. There is no question: there are more fashionable restaurants in Paris than the >L'ambroiserie< at the Place des Vosges, but there are none that are better. Chris­ tian Bau says, »This is where you can experience clas­ sic cuisine better than anywhere else. Pacaud receives the best ingredients available in all of Paris. He gets first pick. You can't find better asparagus, more beau­ tiful truffles or finer caviar than chez Pacaud«. Wheth­ er it's Norwegian lobster with sesame, curry sauce and spinach, sea bass with artichokes and caviar or tarte au chocolat with vanilla ice cream - Pacaud eschews gimmicks. Bau says, »It's perfect. Mature. Timeless.« Afterwards, Bernard Pacaud, always diffident, joins his German colleague in enjoying a glass of champagne. No stress, relaxed. Like anyone would be when it is you who sets the standards.

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RED GAMBERONI CAVIAR I APPLE I LARDO SNOW

BLUEFIN T UNA CUCUMBER I COMBAVA I BLACK RICE VINEGAR

LANGO USTINE KOSHIHIKARI I DAIKON I DASHI BEURRE BLANC

JOHN DORY CARROT I PAK CHOI I SAVOURY MISO SOUP

VEAL 3 SWEETCORN I SPINACH I TRUFFLE

VENISON AUBERGINE I ONION I SAUERBRATEN SAUCE

VERBENA PEACH I RASPBERRY I MERINGUE

DARK CHOCOLATE OLIVE OIL I CALAMANSI I FLEUR DE SEL

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DISH I

RED GAMBERONI CAVIAR APPLE LARDO SNOW

Apple gel Beurre blanc sauce Chive oil Crisps Gamberoni tartare Granny Smith apple Lardo snow Osietra imperial caviar

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DISH I

RED GAMBERONI CAVIAR I APPLE I LARDO SNOW

Gamberoni tartare

Light shellfish stock

240 g meat from red carabinero shrimp (approx. 6 large animals) 50g diced Granny Smith (diam. 0.2cm) 20g chives, finely chopped 50ml lemon vinaigrette (see page 348) Salt, pepper, sugar 120g Osietra imperial caviar

50g white part of leek ½ fennel 2 shallots 2 mushrooms 25ml olive oil 1 kg different shellfish 50ml white wine 150ml Noilly Prat 5 peppercorns 1 bay leaf 1 sprig of thyme 1.5 L water

Cut up the carabinero's meat to make the tartare. Die the apple and add it and the chives. Season with the lime vinaigrette, salt, pepper and sugar. Divide up the seasoned tartare into portions weighing 30 g each and form them into rings (4 cm diameter). Weigh out 15g caviar per portion and form into a ring on the tartare. Cover and refriger­ ate until you are ready to serve.

Beurre blanc 200ml white wine 500 ml light shellfish stock (see right) 60 g salted butter 60 g unsalted butter Salt, cayenne pepper 20 g chive oil (see right) Reduce the white wine by half and top up with the shellfish stock. Reduce all of this to 150 ml. Pass through a fine strainer and mix it with the butter. Season with salt and cayenne pepper and lay aside until the beurre blanc is just a bit warm to the touch. While swivelling the container, pour in a ribbon of the chive oil and mix.

Cut the vegetables into a mirepoix and saute in olive oil until translucent. Add the shellfish, add a bit of white wine and Noilly Prat and add the seasoning. Then top it up with warm water. Allow the stock to simmer for about 2 hours and then pass it through a fine sieve.

Chive oil 120g chives 60g broad leaf parsley 200ml sunflower oil 3g salt Mix all ingredients in the Thermomix at 8 0 ·c and run it for 3 minutes. Then pour onto a cloth sieve. Cool the oil that collects in the blast freezer. Then remove the oil, leaving the frozen water on the bottom.

Lardo snow 100g Lardo Freeze the lardo and grate it to a fine snow using a microplane grater. Freeze until required.

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300g green apple puree, sieved through a fine cloth 3g agar-agar 3g gellan gum Bring the ingredients to the boil and allow to cool in a mould. Then use the Thermomix to beat the mixture into a smooth gel.

Green crisps

TO SERVE

Place the tartare with its caviar topping in the centre of the plate. Remove the ring and place a bit of lardo snow on top in the centre. Press in 3 marigolds arounds each lardo snow and spray on 3 dots of apple gel. Garnish the apple gel with the apple sticks. Finally pour the buerre blanc around the tartare and set a green crisp on top of the lardo snow.

5g flour 5g corn starch 50g veal stock (see page 344) 50ml water 8 g butter 30ml olive oil 5g green food colouring Salt, pepper 1 L neutral oil for frying Process all the ingredients to a smooth batter. Cover the bottom of a well-coated Teflon pan in fat and cook until a thin lattice crisp is produced. Remove the fat from the crisps on kitchen paper and store it in the warming cabinet until needed.

Garnish 1 marigold, plucked to individual segments 24 fine apple sticks (1 x 1 mm edge length, 2cm long)

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ME I II

DISH II

BLUEFIN TUNA CUCUMBER COMBAVA BLACK RICE VINEGAR

Avocado cream Bluefin tuna rolls Bluefin tuna rolls tataki Bluefin tuna tartare Combava vinaigrette Cucumber foam Cucumber ice cream Kimizu

Kiwi Passion fruit core Pickled cucumbers Puffed rice Wakame seaweed crisps

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BAU.STEINE DISH II

What a wonderfully unpretentious, light­ weight kickoff: creamy tuna fish belly, 0-toro, carefully hand-chopped to make a tartare, mixed with brunoise and flavoured with lime marinade and chives. The tuna fish is carefully encased in razor-thin radish slices and pak choi: the creaminess of the meat, the crunchy texture of the cucum­ ber and the subtle flavouring. Marinaded cucumber pearls add an extra freshness. The vinaigrette adds citrus scents and tartness for the oily fish. As transparent as it is, this is a good example of how harmo­ nious >fusion< cooking can be - while neg­ itoro is an iconic Japanese dish, the aroma of the kaffir limes are clearly reminiscent of a cuisine much more southwest, i.e. in the direction of Thailand.

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Tuna tartare

Cucumber pearls

Combava­ Vinaigrette

Recipe, page 118

½ cucumber

100ml black kombu rice vinegar 0.2g xanthan gum 50ml combava oil (see below)

Peel the cucumber and form a total of 16 pearls using a melon scoop ( 0.5cm diameter). Put them into a container. Cover them with the vacuum stock and vacuum seal everything.

Thicken the rice vinegar with xanthan gum and then whip in the combava oil to form a finely-beaded emulsion.

Cucumber vacuum stock Combava oil 100ml cucumber juice, freshly pressed 150ml gherkin juice 40 ml Chardonnay vinegar (Forum) 10g mustard 20ml dill oil (see page 348) Salt, sugar Mix all ingredients and season with salt and pepper.

5g unwaxed kaffir lime zest (combava) 100 ml grape seed oil 2g salt Grate the kaffir lime with a microplane grater. Vacuum-seal the zest with the oil and salt and place in a bain-marie at 50 'C for 2 hours. Let it stand in ice-water for 2 days. After 48 hours, strain and store it in a cool dark place.

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DISH II

BLUEFIN TUNA CUCUMBER I COMBAVA I BLACK RICE VINEGAR

Tuna 1 kg bluefin tuna (centre cut, sashimi quality, including belly) Salt, pepper Sesame oil 50g mirin 100g low-salt soy sauce 50g cucumber brunoise (see right) 100g lime vinaigrette (see page 3 48) 10g chives, finely sliced 8 thin slices of radish (edge length 3.5 x 6 cm, 1 mm thick) 8 leaves of pak choi 1 tsp best olive oil Zest of ¼ unwaxed lime Cut 2 pieces from the tuna fish of 10-12cm in length and 4 x 4cm edge length. Season with salt and pepper and fry briefly on all sides with sesame oil on the griddle. Mix the mirin and the soy sauce, while turning the tuna morsels in the mixture. Torch all around using a culinary torch and then refrigerate the dish. Portion out the cooled tuna fish slices into 6 mm thick slices (3 slices per portion). Chop the remaining tuna fish to a fine tartare and add half of the cucumber brunoise. Season with lime vinai­ grette, salt, pepper and chives. Lay out the radish slices next to each oth­ er. Lay a pak choi leaf on each radish slice and press them lightly with a palette knife. Spread the tartare on them and roll them to form a 1 cm diameter roll. Wrap it firmly in cling film and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Before serving, trim to 3.5cm long and remove the foil. Chop the tuna toro to a rough tartare to an edge length of 4 mm. Add the second half of the cucumber brunoise and season with olive oil, salt and lime zest. Weigh out 8 portions at 18 g each and cut out using a cutter (diam. 4 cm). Cover with cling film and refrigerate until serving.

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PAGE 117

120 g egg yolks 50 ml mirin 50 ml rice vinegar Salt

Cucumber sl i ce s ½ cucumber Vacuuming stock (see page 117) Peel the cucumber and cut it using the slicing machine laterally to 2 mm thick strips. Remove the core when doing so. Then make 16 slices (5 mm diameter) and 16 slices (15 mm diameter) from the cucumber strips. Put them into separate con­ tainers and cover them with the vacuurning stock and vacuum seal them.

Mix all the ingredients in a Thermomix ° at 8 5 C to a fine cream. Season to taste with salt and strain through a fine strainer.

Black p uf fe d r i ce 50g black rice from Piedmont 1 L water 500g frying fat Salt

For the cucumber bruno i se ½ cucumber Vacuuming stock (see page 117) Peel the cucumber and cut it into a brunoise with an edge length of 2 mm. Put it into a container, cover it with poaching stock and vacuum seal it.

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PAGE 117

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117

Wash the rice under running water and boil it until it is soft. Then rinse it in cold water. Spread out a dish cloth over a pan and spread out the rice on top of it so that the grains are separated. Allow to air dry for 24 hours. Heat the frying oil to 220·c and allow the dried rice to puff up in the oil briefly. Allow it to drip on kitchen paper and add salt while still hot. Keep in warming cabinet until required.

Pass io n frui t core 1 passion fruit

Avo cado cream 3 ripe, peeled avocados with stones removed 70 g yoghurt 10 g chervil 5g tarragon 10 g coriander 10g basil Juice of 1 lemon Salt, pepper, sugar Use the Thermomix to whip all the ingredients into a cream. Season, strain and pour the mixture into a spray bottle.

Cut the passion fruit in half. Remove out the seeds and put then into a sieve. Lay the juice aside for further use and keep the seeds cool and airtight until required.

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Cucumber foam

Wakame seaweed crisps

150ml liquid from juiced cucumbers 75g sour cream 50g Greek yoghurt 30g creme fraiche 25 g Proespuma Juice of½ lime 30ml pickled gherkin juice 1 sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed

100g mealy potatoes 500ml water 20g parsley leaves 1 tbsp wakame seaweed powder Salt, pepper

Stir the cucumber juice with sour cream, yogurt, creme fraiche and proespuma until smooth. Mix the lime juice with the pickled gherkin juice and then warm up the mixture. Dissolve the gelatine in the liquid. Combine both mixtures and pour them into an iSi-Siphon. Add the gas of 2 capsules and let it stand in iced water for 5 hours. Refrigerate until needed.

Cook the potatoes until they are done and then strain them. Keep the water you cooked them in. Finely mix 90g of the cooked potatoes with 30 ml of the cooking water in the Thermomix. Add parsley and seaweed powder and continue to mix until it becomes an even mixture. Season it with salt and pepper. Strain and spread out 1 mm thick on a silicon mat. Dry in the dehydrator for at least 12 hours at 50 •c. Break it into the desired sizes and store it in an airtight container.

TO SERVE

Salt the tuna fish slices on both sides and place them in a fan-like fashion on the plate. Then put on the formed tartare behind them. Put on a tartare roll and spray the cucumber foam behind the roll so that it does not touch the roll or the tartare. Garnish the plate with avocado cream, kimizu, cucumber elements and kiwi pearls. Using a fine microplane grater, grate some kaffir lime zest over the plate. Drizzle the combava vinaigrette on the plate. Arrange the blossoms, crisps, cress, dill and puffed rice and finally put a scoop of cucumber ice cream on the plate.

Garnish Cucumber ice cream 135 g glucose powder 18 g sugar 450ml liquid from juiced cucumbers 20ml rice vinegar 25g passion fruit pulp 25ml simple syrup (1:1) 10ml champagne vinegar 10ml gin 1.5 sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed Salt, pepper, sugar Green food colouring

24 cut out kiwi pearls ½ kaffir lime 8 borage blossoms 8 cucumber flowers 8 wakame seaweed crisps 1 pack red shiso cress 32 dill tips

Mix the glucose and sugar together. Mix the gherkin juice, rice vinegar, passion fruit pulp, simple syrup, champagne vinegar and gin and warm the mixture to 45·c. Trickle the glucose-sugar mixture onto it and heat it to 86 ·c. Dissolve the gela­ tine in it. Season it with salt, pepper and sugar and colour it with green food colouring, if required. Put it in the Pacojet container and freeze it. Pacotize it before use.

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DISH Ill

LANGOUSTINE KOSHIHIKARI DA IKON DASHI BEURRE BLANC

Daikon cress Daikon radish oil Dashi beurre blanc Koshihikari rice Langoustine Pickled radish Rice flakes

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DISH 111

LANGOUSTINE KOSHIHIKARI I DAIKON I DASHI BEURRE BLANC

Langoustines

Koshihikari

8 large langoustine royal (3/ 4 calibration, prefera­ bly from Guilvinec ) Salt, pepper

200g Koshihikari rice 20 g finely-diced shallots 1 tbsp vegetable oil Salt 30 ml white wine 750ml chicken stock (see page 345) 50g butter 20ml whipped cream Pepper, sugar

Remove the langoustine meat from the shell and lay it on a towel. Then carefully devein them. Add salt and pepper on both sides. Lay them on the grill for 30 seconds, shell-side first, so that the langoust­ ines remain straight. Then turn them and cook on the other side also for 45-60 seconds.

Miso coating 100g white miso paste 80ml dashi Beurre blanc (see page 347) 20ml chicken stock (see page 345) Mix all the ingredients and bring to the boil once. Brush the langoustine with the hot coating.

Rinse the rice under the cold tap for 30 seconds. Saute the diced shallots in oil until translucent, then add the washed rice and a little salt. Then add white wine and boil until the liquid has evaporat­ ed. Meanwhile, while constantly stirring, gradually add the hot chicken broth. Keep topping up and simmering until the rice is still slightly al dente. To finish, add cold butter and cream and season with salt, sugar and pepper.

Pickle-stock 300ml water 150ml rice vinegar 50ml mirin 15g salt 15g sugar 5 juniper berries 3 bay leaves 10 peppercorns Bring all ingredients to the boil.

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Pickled daikon 1 large daikon (white radish) Pickle-stock (see left) 1-1 ½ tbsp red beetroot powder Break up the radish and cut it into 1mm thick slices with the slicing machine. Cut out a total of 32 slices (2 cm diameter) for the coins. Cut 32 strips (10 x 2cm) for the rolls. Pour half of the hot pickle­ stock over half each of the coins and strips. Colour the other half of the stock with the beetroot powder and pour this hot solution over the rest of the radish strips and slices. Then refrigerate for at least 24 hours. To serve, roll up the strips to small rolls using a metal skewer (1 cm diameter) and warm them up in the Hold-o-Mat at 62 •c for 10 minutes.

TO SERVE

Arrange the creamy koshikari lengthwise on a pre­ warmed plate and place the langoustine on top. Lay the coins on the plate, while alternating with the langoustines. Sprinkle the rice flakes on them. Place the rolls around the langoustine and garnish with daikon cress and bean blossoms. Add the daikon oil and the hot dashi beurre blanc and pour them around the langoustine, drop-by-drop.

Garnish 50 g fried green rice flakes 8 bean blossoms 1 pack daikon cress 40 ml daikon oil (see page 348) 300 ml dashi Beurre blanc (see page 347)

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DI SH IV

JOHN DORY CARROT PAK CHOI SAVOURY MISO SOUP

Carrot and ginger puree Coriander oil Edamame John Dory Miso oil Miso soup Pak choi Razor clams Shellfish oil Soy sprouts

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BAU.STEINE DISH IV

A perfect cooking technique for the pre­ cious John Dory: gently browned on bak­ ing paper until just coloured, then slow­ cooked at 48 degrees in grapeseed oil. Then, a miso searing paste you could use in so many dishes and a culinary torch come into play, both of which give the fish everything it needs to bring out its essen­ tial flavour, glazed juiciness, subtle toasted notes and delicately aromatic sweetness. Underscored by a mild carrot and ginger puree, the quiet star on the plate is a miso soup based on a bouillabaisse stock. Just looking at it, you wouldn't guess how complex it is to make, and yet it would work wonders as a setting for innumerable other saltwater fish and shellfish dishes. And what makes it even more unique: it's almost fat-free!

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John Dory

Carrot ginger puree Miso soup

2 John Dory at 2-2.2 kg each Salt, pepper 1 L grapeseed oil 30g miso paste for flaming (see page 349)

100 g shallots 200 g butter 750 g carrots 50 g peeled ginger 350 ml freshly pressed carrot juice Salt, sugar

Fillet the fish, remove the skin and sinews, and then cut each fillet into 4 pieces. Set the smaller belly pieces aside and use for other purposes. Salt and pepper the 8 pieces and briefly brown in pan on a piece of colourless baking paper. Then put it in the grapeseed oil, warmed to 48 •c and slow­ cook it until it reaches a temperature of about 42 •c. Remove the fish from the oil, spread the miso searing paste over it and quickly torch it with a culinary torch.

Finely chop the shallots and saute them in butter until they are translucent. Dice the carrots and then add them. Slice the ginger and then add it. Then add a bit of carrot juice and cook the carrots till soft. Then mix in Thermomix until fine. Season to taste with salt and sugar and pass the mixture through a fine sieve.

1 L bouillabaisse stock (see page 128) 500 g egg whites 250 g clarifying meat (finely minced chicken meat} 1 clove of garlic ½ bulb of ginger 3 stalks of lemongrass ½ shallot 100 g light miso paste 20 saffron threads 1 pinch of xanthan gum to thicken Soy sauce to taste Mix all ingredients well and then clarify on low heat, stirring constantly. Then strain through a cloth and collect the stock. Sightly thicken it with xanthan gum and refine it with salt, sugar and, if needed, a few drops of very high quality soy sauce.

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DISH IV

JOHN DORY CARROT I PAK CHOI I SAVOURY MISO SOUP

_ _hn_D_ o_ry__ _Jo

Miso soup

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Bo uillaba isse stock 5 tomatoes 5 shallots 1 leek (only the white part) ½ fennel 1 stalk of celery 1 garlic bulb 2 tbsp vegetable oil 500g butter 2kg of lobster, broken into walnut-sized pieces 200ml Neilly Prat 100ml white wine 50g basil 10g thyme 3 L water Finely chop the tomatoes, shallots, leeks, fennel, celery and garlic and sweat them with some oil in a pot. Meanwhile melt the butter in a roasting pan and let the lobster sweat in it until all the liquid has evaporated. Then add a bit of Neilly Prat and white wine and add basil and thyme. When the stock has been reduced by a third, add it to the vegetables and top up with water. Let it all simmer for about 4 hours. Then skim off the fat and strain. Keep the fat skimmed off for other uses (see below).

She llfis h fat/oil Simmer the butter that rose to the top when cool­ ing and after the preparation of the bouillabaisse stock until only the >oil< remains.

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127

Pak ch oi 8 mini pak choi 25ml vegetable stock (see page 344) 2ml ginger syrup (from pickled steam ginger) 2ml lemon juice 10ml sake 10ml mirin 1 g salt 1g sugar Remove the large outer leaves of the pak choi and cut off the stem. Use all the other ingredients to make a broth. Stir-fry the pak choi in a hot skillet, add a bit of stock and then cook fit or about 2 min­ utes. Season to taste with salt and sugar.

Razor clams 1 kg razor clams (live, XL) 75ml olive oil 2 parsley stalks 75 g vegetable brunoise (carrots, celeriac, cour­ gette) blanched 3 0g chives, finely chopped 100ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) Salt, pepper, sugar Soak the razor clams in cold water for about 1 hour, then vacuum-seal them with olive oil and the parsley (with stems) and cook at 72•c for 3.2 hours in a bain-marie. Let it cool down in iced water. Afterwards remove the clams from the shells and cut them diagonally into 2mm thick slices. Mix with the vegetable brunoise and chives, marinate in shiso vinaigrette and season with salt, pepper and sugar. Warm up in the Hold-o-Mat to 62 •c for 10 minutes prior to serving.

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Pak choi saute 200 g pak choi stems 200 soy sprouts 2 tbsp vegetable oil 10 ml dark sesame oil Salt, pepper, sugar Cut the stems and sprouts into cubes (1.5-2 mm length at the edges). Then, at a high setting, briefly saute them in vegetable oil and season them with sesame oil, salt, pepper and sugar.

TO SERVE

Arrange the razor clams on a pre-warmed plate using a cut-out ring (5 cm diameter). Lay the fish on top and spread the saute evenly on the fish. Attractively arrange the carrot-ginger puree, the warmed edamame and the pak choi on the plate. Make pearl droplets out of the parsley and the shellfish oil. Mix them with the miso soup and pour over. Finally, drizzle the soup on the plate with miso oil and coriander oil. Garnish it with watercress leaves and shiso cress.

Garnish 100 g edamame 8 small pak choi leaves 1 tbsp finely sliced strips of parsley leaves 10 ml miso oil (see page 348) 10 ml coriander oil (see page 348) 8 watercress leaves (1 cm diameter) 8 watercress leaves (2 cm diameter) 8 tips of red shiso cress

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DISH V

VEA L 3 SWEETCORN SPINACH TRUFFLE

Baby sweetcorn cobs Spinach Spinach cream Sweetcorn foam Sweetcorn Malto Truffle Truffle jus Veal head croquette Veal sweetbreads Veal tartare

BAU.STEINE DISH V

France, Spain, Italy, China ... all great cui­ sines of the world make countless versions of dishes that make use of organ meats. Confident handling of these reveals cu­ linary competence - on all sides. In the guest, in the butcher and finally in the cook who needs to know how to treat delicate innards with skill. Ever since his training days, for Bau, liver, tripe and kidneys have been an obvious part of the canon of great cuisine. His veal sweetbreads have the ca­ pacity to convert even the most fervent unbeliever. They are lightly floured and fried golden: crispy on the outside crispy and creamy on the inside. The sweetness, which is typical of many types of these kinds of dishes, is emphasized by velvety sweetcorn espuma and the herbal fresh­ ness of the nutty young spinach leaves. This is one of the few Bau dishes that does not include a sauce.

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Veal sweetbreads

Sweetcorn foam

Spinach salad

400g veal sweetbreads 10g finely chopped carrots 10g celery 10g shallots, finely chopped Salt, pepper, flour 2 tbsp vegetable oil

50g shallots 50g mushrooms 50g bacon 1 tbsp maize germ oil 500g boiled sweetcorn 250ml chicken stock (see page 345) 100ml cream 1 sprig of thyme 2 bay leaves Salt, sugar 2 eggs 6g mustard 4ml lemon juice 120ml grape seed oil 40ml miso oil (see page 348) Pepper

32 small spinach leaves 10ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) Salt, pepper

Thoroughly remove the skin and sinews from the sweetbreads and poach the sweetbreads at 80 ·c in well salted water with root vegetables. When it is cooked, remove it and allow it to cool. Pluck out 8 evenly sized sweetbread rosettes, each weighing 25-30g, and carefully pat them dry. Sea­ son the rosettes with salt and pepper and lightly sift a bit of flour onto them. Fry them until golden in a hot pan with a bit of oil. Process the remaining sweetbread for the croquettes (see page 135).

Marinate the spinach leaves in the shiso vinaigrette and season them with salt and pepper.

Slice the shallots, mushrooms and bacon into ha­ zelnut-sized cubes and saute them in oil in a deep pot until they are translucent. Add the sweetcorn, add chicken stock and pour in the cream. Add thyme and bay leaves and lightly season with salt and sugar. Cover the pot with a sheet of baking paper and boil the contents for about 2 hours until they are soft. Then strain. Put the sweetcorn collected in a Pacojet container and freeze for a minimum of 12 hours. Then pacotize at least eight times in order to produce a fine corn puree. Weigh out 200g of the resulting puree and then mix it with the eggs, mustard and lemon juice in the Thermomix until they become fine. Pour in a thin stream of oil. Season to taste with salt, sugar and pepper and pass through a fine strainer. Put the mixture into an iSi-Siphon and load with 2 gas cap­ sules. Store at 65•c in a bain-marie until needed. 132

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DISH V

VE AL 3 SWEETCORN I SPINACH I TRUFFLES

Veal

Preparation of calf's head

½ calf's head {eyes, skin, and nose removed) with tongue

300g carrots 300g celery 200g white part of leek 2 white onions 4 bay leaves 8 cloves Salt, freshly-ground black pepper

Soak the calf's head well for 3 to 4 hours in cold water.

Picklestock 150g pickling salt 60g salt 30 juniper berries 30 peppercorns 6 thyme sprigs 6 bay leaves 6 cloves 6 garlic 3 L water Mix all the ingredients together and pickle the calf's head and tongue for 12 hours.

Chop the carrots, celery and leek into rough pieces and insert the bay leaves and cloves into the on­ ions. Remove calf's head from the pickling solution and place it in a large pot with vegetables. Cover it with cold water and it weigh down with a sieve so that the calf's head is completely covered. Bring to the boil and then gently simmer. From time to time, ladle off the foam which rises up. After about 4 hours, remove the tongue and cheeks from the cooking water. After a further 30 minutes remove the rest of the head and leave to cool. Prepare while still warm and remove fat. Cut the individual pieces up into walnut sized pieces and season them with salt and pepper. Then fill the >calf's head mixture< into a terrine mould lined with cling film, weight it down and keep it refrigerated overnight until the mixture is firm.

Veal sweetbreads

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Veal tartare 200g veal fillet, properly sliced, ready-to-cook 1 tbsp grapeseed oil 1 tbsp green celery, finely diced 1 ½ tbsp chives, finely chopped 1 tsp minced truffle (see right) Salt, pepper Chop up the veal fillet into a fine tartare and mari­ nate and season it in grapeseed oil, celery, chives, truffle, salt and pepper. Cover on a plate with cling film. Form the tartare into 20g portions with a cutter (3cm diameter).

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Veal croquette

Sweetcorn Malto

Truffle

100g veal sweetbreads (see page 133) 250g calf's head (see left) 80 g traditional chicken stuffing 16 slices of black truffle (see right) 10g flour 1 egg 20g panko meal 7 50ml palm oil for deep frying Maldon salt

10g dried sweetcorn 1 chicken skin, dried and finely chopped 10g cornflakes 5g Malto 7.5g goose fat Salt, pepper, icing sugar

4 Perigord truffles at 20g each 1 tbsp madeira 1 tbsp red port 250g butter Salt, pepper

Cut the veal sweetbreads and calf's head into 2-3 mm thick slices, and make rings out of them (2cm diameter). Then thinly coat 3 slices of the calf's head and 2 slices of veal sweetbread with fowl stuffing. Put both of them together, alternating with the truffle slices and coat the outside of them with the fowl stuffing. Bread them by dipping in flour, egg and breadcrumbs one after the other and fry at 160·c until they are golden. Season with Maldon salt.

Sweetcorn foam

PAGE 133

Baby corn 16 Baby corn cobs ( 5 cm) Salt, sugar 30 g butter Blanch the sweetcorn in well salted, slightly sweet­ ened water with a bit of butter until it becomes firm. Then immediately shock with ice water. Then lightly caramelise the cobs in a pan with butter and some sugar. Lastly, cut the corn cobs into halves.

Pickled baby sweetcorn 4 baby corn cobs 50ml Melfor vinegar 50ml water 50g sugar 1 bay leaf 2 white peppercorns 2 juniper berries Cut the baby sweetcorn lengthwise into 1mm thick slices. Bring the remaining ingredients to the boil together, pour them over the sliced sweetcorn while still hot and allow it to stand in the refrigera­ tor for 24 hours.

Finely chop the dried corn, the chicken skin and the cornflakes. Meanwhile, melt the goose fat and mix the Malto with the chopped ingredients. Stir all of this into the liquid goose fat and season with salt, pepper and icing sugar. Store at 63 ·c in Holdo-mat until ready to use.

Spinach cream 1kg spinach 50g nut butter Salt, pepper, sugar, nutmeg 1 pinch of xanthan gum 50ml whipped cream Remove stalks and any yellowish parts from spinach and then wash it well. Blanch it in boiling, salted water and immediately shock it with ice water. Then squeeze out the spinach well with a kitchen towel so that as little water as possible remains. Then put in a Pacojet container and freeze for at least 6 hours. Pacotize six times while still frozen until a fine cream is formed. Strain it through a fine sieve before use. Heat in a pot and season with beurre noisette, salt, pepper, �ugar and nutmeg. Thicken with xanthan gum. Fold in the whipped cream to serve.

Wash the truffles carefully with a little water. Remove the peel with a small knife and slice them finely. Use the chopped peel in the tartare. Chip off 24 small >stones< (about 1cm in size) from two of the truffles and glaze them in butter with madeira and port. Season with salt and pepper. Slice 16 thin slices from another truffle and cut out rings using a cutter (2cm diameter). Use the truffle slices for the croquette. Slice the remainder of the truffles and then in fine julienne. Keep the final truffle and later grate finely using a microplane grater.

Garnish 32 small spinach leaves 10ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 3 48) Salt, pepper 2 tbsp reduced veal jus (see page 3 4 4) 1 tbsp cold salted butter Marinate the spinach leaves in the shiso vinaigrette and season them with salt and pepper. Warm up the veal jus and whisk in the cold butter.

TO SERVE

On a slightly pre-warmed plate, set out the veal sweetbread, veal tartare, veal croquette and corn Malto in a circle. Lay the veal sweetbread on a small portion of the spinach salad. Garnish with marinat­ ed spinach leaves, corn cobs, pickled sweetcorn and truffle and decorate with sweetcorn foam and freshly grated truffles. Finally finish the sweetbread off with some veal jus.

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DISH VI

VENISON AUBERGINE 0 NI ON SAUERBRATEN SAUCE

Aubergine caviar Caramelised onions Miso aubergine Offal sandwich Onion puree Pearl onion skins Saddle of venison Sauerbraten sauce

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BAU.STEINE DISH VI

There are three components that are all-purpose weapons; they add refinement to any kind of meat. The sandwich - both unpretentious and opulent - you could eat it all by itself! You can use a variety of innards to make this, whether from lamb, duck or guinea fowl. Here, venison liver and heart are used with some goose liver, chopped super-fine by hand with a large, sharp knife. Not even a modern cooking machine can give you better, more precise results. Between paper-thin toast, fried in butter, this is crispy, creamy and ad­ dictive! A bit of truffle won't do any harm to this extravagant croque monsieur ... No less, the caramel sweetness of the onions, that elegantly contrasts with the complex tartness of the deeply-flavourful, intense sauerbraten sauce, made according to Bau's grandmother's recipe.

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Offal sandwich

Caramelised onions Sauerbraten sauce

4 slices of bread for toasting 200 g venison liver, very finely chopped 100 g venison heart, very finely chopped 80 g foie gras, sliced into brunoise (2 x 2) 1 ½ tbsp candied shallot (without oil) 10 g chopped parsley Salt, pepper 5 tbsp vegetable oil for browning

8 white pearl onions 10 g butter 10 g sugar 10 ml old balsamic vinegar Salt

Remove crusts from bread. Freeze and then halve the slices on slicing machine to make two 4 mm square slices. Mix the remaining ingredients. Season them and spread them on the 4 slices of toast. Cover this with the remaining 4 slices and toast in vegetable oil on both sides till golden-brown. Then put in the oven for 90 seconds at 200 ·c. Then toast again fairly quickly in a Teflon pan in the hot grapeseed oil. Lay the sandwiches on kitchen paper to dry off the oil thoroughly. Salt and then trim.

Vacuum-seal the pearl onions in their peel with the butter and cook for 3 bursts of 30 seconds until soft. Remove the onions from the vacuum bag. Allow them to cool and then cut them in half. Re­ move the peel and lightly caramelise the remainder in a pan with the sugar. Add balsamic vinegar and season with salt.

500 g venison trimmings Dice 50 g each of carrots, celery, mushrooms and shallots into walnut-sized pieces 1.2 L red wine 10 juniper berries 2 bay leaves 1 sprig of rosemary 15 white peppercorns 300 ml red port 100 ml madeira 50 ml dry sherry 300 ml game jus (see page 345) 400 ml veal jus (see page 344) 3 tbsp PX sherry-vinegar 3 g xanthan gum (per 400 ml sauce) 20 g cold butter Marinate the venison trimmings and mirepoix in the red wine for 3 days. Then strain it, separate the meat from the vegetables and dry them carefully. Slowly bring the red wine to the boil and skim off the particles that rise to the surface. Brown the drained vegetables with the juniper berries, bay, rosemary and pepper in a pot. After a short while, add the trimmings and brown them lightly. Add red wine, port, madeira and sherry and reduce to a third, then pour in the game jus and veal jus. After simmering lightly for 3 hours, strain the sauce and reduce a third of it (to roughly 400 mil. While doing so, repeatedly skim off the particles that have risen. Season the reduced sauce with sherry vinegar and thicken with xanthan gum. Add the cold butter before serving.

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DISH VI

VENISON AUBERGINE I ONION I SAUERBRATEN SAUCE

Venison 1 venison loin weighing 2-2.2 kg Salt, pepper 50ml vegetable oil 2 tbsp butter 1 sprig of rosemary 15 juniper berries 2 bay leaves Detach the venison loin, remove the silver skin and separate into 4 slices of 230-240g each. Season the meat with salt and pepper, brown it on all sides in a pan with hot oil and cook for 2.30 minutes at 200•c in the oven. Then let the meat stand in the Hold-o-mat at 60 •c for 15-20 minutes. Shortly before serving, foam up the butter in the pan, add rosemary, juniper berries and the bay leaves, and baste the venison loin with this until the meat has reached a core temperature of 51 •c. Then let the venison loin stand again in the Hold­ o-mat at 60•c for 10 minutes. Before serving, put the venison in a hot pan again, ensure all sides of it become warm again and then carve it.

Sauerbraten sauce

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Offal sandwich

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Miso aubergine 20g light sesame seeds 2 g Maldon salt 1 L vegetable oil 2 large aubergines Salt, pepper 30g sugar 20ml mirin 20ml sake 60g light miso paste Roast the sesame seeds and grind them with the salt in a mortar. Store airtight in a dry place until needed. Heat the vegetable oil to 160•c. Prick all sides of the aubergine with a needle, then slice off the ends and cut it in half lengthwise. Fry the aubergine halves in hot oil until they are golden brown. Then remove the skin and cut into cubes that are 2.5 cm long. Then season with salt and pepper. Caramelise the sugar in a pot and add mirin and sake. Then boil the caramel until the sugar has completely dissolved again. Process the caramel and miso paste in the Thermomix to an even mix­ ture and coat the aubergine cubes with it. Finally, caramelise the cubes under the salamander until golden brown and sprinkle the ground sesame seeds over them.

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Aubergine caviar

Onion puree

Garnish

3 aubergines Salt, pepper, sugar 2 thyme sprigs 1 sprig of rosemary 50ml olive oil 2 shallots 5 mushrooms Olive oil 30g light miso paste 20ml veal jus (see page 344) 1 tbsp vegetable brunoise (yellow and red peppers, courgette), briefly sweated A few drops of aged balsamic vinegar

10 white onions 2 tbsp vegetable oil

8 8 8 8

Halve the aubergines lengthwise and season with salt, pepper and sugar. Scatter thyme and rose­ mary over this and drizzle witholive oil. Put the seasoned aubergine halves back together, wrap in aluminium foil and bake in the oven at 250•c for 35 minutes. Removed the cooked aubergine halves from the aluminium foil and discard the skins using a spoon. Remove seeds, rosemary and thyme too. Roughly chop up the aubergine flesh and leave to drip in a conical strainer. Finely chop the shallots and mushrooms and fry in some oil. Add the miso paste and briefly cook together. Then pour over the veal jus and reduce by half. Add the chopped aubergine and reduce to a third (so that they can be formed into quenellesl. Finally add the sweated vegetable brunoise and season with salt, pepper and sugar.

4 white sugar cubes 2 slices of bread without crusts 50g creme frakhe

tips of red shiso cress heads of affilla cress tips of frisee lettuce chervil leaves

Salt, pepper, sugar Peel the onions and slice into thin rings. Heat the oil in a pot and melt the cubed sugar in it without letting it change colour. Add the onions and let them soak in water while stirring. Make sure that they do not change colour. Cook the onions in their juice until cooked and then leave to drain well in a sieve. Then process the onions with the bread and creme frakhe in the Thermomix to a smooth mixture and season with salt, pepper and sugar. Finally strain and store in a spray bottle in a bain-marie at 65 ·c until required.

Caramelised onions

TO SERVE

Place the carved venison in the middle of a prewarmed plate and lay the sandwich parallel to it. Then set the aubergine cubes and a scoop of aubergine caviar on the plate. Dab the onion puree on the plate, arrange the caramelised onions and the onion skins attractively, and garnish everything with cresses, frisee and chervil. Finally the hot sauerbraten sauce over the dish.

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Pearl onion skins 10 pearl onions 100ml water 100ml Melfor vinegar 100g sugar 1 bay leaf 5 white peppercorns 2 juniper berries Peel the pearl onions. Bring the remaining ingredi­ ents to the boil and pour over peeled onions. Let them stand for 12 hours. Then cut the pearl onions lengthwise in half and sear them with a culinary torch. Remove the skins from the pearl onions, without damaging the seared side. Select the most attractive pearl onions skins.

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DISH VI I

VERBENA PEACH

RASPBERRY MERINGUE

Peach gel Peach meringue Peach sorbet Raspberry Malto Raspberry sorbet Verbena cream Verbena gel

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DISH VI I

VERBENA

PEACH I RASPBERRY I MERINGUE

Verbena milk

Verbena gel

Peach sorbet

360ml cream 300ml milk 20g fresh verbena 20g dried verbena 5ml verbena tea 1 vanilla pod 1 pinch of salt

500g bitter lemon 1 g Citras 15g fresh verbena 15g dried verbena 50 ml water 50 ml lime juice 6g agar-agar 6g gel Ian gum

500 g peach puree 50g white wine 20 ml peach liqueur (Monin) 10g lime juice 2 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed 20 g Prosorbet Red food colouring

Bring the bitter lemon to the boil with citras, verbena, water and lime juice. Cover and let it stand in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Then strain it and bring it to the boil with agar­ agar and gellan. Let it cool in a dish and then process in the Thermomix to develop an even, smooth gel and then strain it.

Warm up the puree to 60 ·c with the white wine, peach liquor and lime juice. Add gelatine and Prosorbet and colour lightly with the food colour­ ing. Put the mixture in the Pacojet container and freeze. Pacotize as required.

Bring all ingredients to the boil and let it stand in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Then strain.

Verbena mixture 660g verbena milk (see above) 450 g white chocolate couverture 250g egg yolks

Fake raspberries Heat up the milk with the couverture chocolate to 80·c in the Thermo­ mix and emulsify with egg yolk. Fill a terrine form with the mixture, wrap it in cling film and cook it in a bain° marie in the oven at 130 C for 2 hours. Then allow the mixture to cool and warm in the Thermomix to 50 •c. Then fill into silicon moulds ( 1.5cm diame­ ter, 7 cm long) and freeze.

125g cocoa butter 650g white couverture chocolate White colouring (titanium dioxide) Dissolve the cocoa butter with the chocolate couverture and colour with the titanium oxide. Remove the frozen gateaux and fill an airbrush with the coating mixture. Spray the gateaux very thinly with it. Freeze until ready to serve.

Peach gel 500 g peach puree 50g sugar 5ml lemon juice 5g lime juice 10g peach liqueur (Monin) 5g agar-agar 5g gel Ian gum Yellow food colouring Briefly bring all the ingredients, ex­ cept for the food colour, to the boil and let it cool in a dish. Then process it to a smooth gel in the Thermomix and colour it lightly with the food colouring. Finally, strain the gel.

110 g sugar 30 g dry glucose 125ml water 500g raspberry coulis Mix the sugar and glucose and heat with the water to 84 ·c. Then cool the mixture to 4 •c and add the raspberry coulis. Allow the mixture to stand for 24 hours, then put it in the Pacojet container and freeze. When required, pacotize it once, pour it into pre­ pared raspberry silicon moulds and then freeze it again. Keep frozen until ready to serve.

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Peach meringue 40g sugar 40g egg whites 40ml water 40ml peach liqueur (Manin) Whip 20g sugar and the egg white together in the mixer. Boil the remaining sugar with the water and the peach liquor to 125·c. Pour the syrup into the beaten egg whites in a thread-like fashion and then refrigerate the mixture. Then spread the meringue mixture 2 mm thick on a Silpat mat and dry in the oven at 75 •c for about 12 hours.

TO SERVE

Place a gateau in the centre of the plate. Using the gels, spray a dab for the ice cream and the dots. Apply 2 small heaps of Mal to and create a dimple in the middle. Decorate the gateaux with the blossoms, the cress and the silver leaf. Place a fake raspberry in the Malta indentation and lay a quenelle of peach sorbet on top. Decorate the sorbet and the gateaux with the peach meringue.

Raspberry Malto 100g white couverture chocolate 7.5g raspberry seed oil 30g Malto 1 pinch of salt 50g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers) Melt the couverture and mix with raspberry seed oil and Malta until thick. Finally add salt and the Eclat d'Or.

Decoration 15 violet blossoms 1 pack of atsina cress 2 sheets of silver leaf

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DISH VI 11

DARK CHOCOLATE OLIVE OIL CALAMANSI FLEUR DE SEL

Brioche crisps Calamansi gel Chocolate ganache Fleur de Sel Kumquats Olive oil Olive oil ice cream

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DISH VIII

DARK CHOCOLATE

OLIVE OIL I CALAMANSI I FLEUR DE SEL

Olive oil ice cream

Kumquats

625ml milk 65 skim milk powder 90g sugar 115g glucose powder 25g inverted sugar 25g sugar 4g Super Neutrose 75g eggs 250g cream 125g olive oil

500g kumquats 350ml water 350g orange juice 350g sugar 1 vanilla pod 1 bay leaf 1 cinnamon stick 4 cloves Peel of 1 unwaxed lemon

Warm the milk with the powdered milk, sugar, glucose and inverted sugar to 40•c in the Thermo­ mix. Mix the sugar with the Super Neutrose and the whole egg and add them to the milk mixture. Then increase the temperature in the Thermomix to 86·c. Add cream and olive oil and then stir the mixture over iced water until cool. Put the ice cream mixture in a Pacojet container and put it in the freezer for at least 12 hours. Pacotize as required.

Salted chocolate ganache

125g dark couverture chocolate 210ml cream 70ml water 0.7g agar-agar 20g inverted sugar 1 g Fleur de Sel 1 sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed Melt the chocolate icing and while you bring the cream to the boil. Then, bit-by-bit, add the hot cream to the melted chocolate. Allow the water to boil once with the agar-agar, the inverted sugar and the salt. Dissolve the gelatine in the mixture and fold the mixture into the chocolate cream. Fill the mixture into small silicon moulds and freeze. Freeze until ready to serve.

Blanch and quarter the kumquats. Remove the core and cut out using a ellipse cutter. Bring the water, the orange juice, the sugar, the vanilla pod, the bay leaf, the cinnamon stick, the cloves and the lemon peel to the boil and pour them over the kumquats. Keep the kumquats in this liquid until serving.

Calamansi gel

600ml water 210g sugar 10g agar-agar 10g gel Ian gum 600g calamansi puree Bring the water to the boil with sugar, agar-agar and gellan. Meanwhile, bring the calamansi puree to the boil in a second pot. Mix both liquids and bring to the boil again. Leave the mixture to cool in a dish and then process it in the Thermomix to an even, smooth gel. Strain it.

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Brioche crisps ½ small brioche 2 tbsp olive oil Salt Briefly freeze the brioche and slice it into roughly 1 mm thick slices using the slicing machine. Grease two Silpat mats with olive oil. Cut out rounds of brioche and spread them out on a mat. Cover with the second mat and bake in the oven at 160 •c for about 14 minutes until golden.

TO SERVE

Place 4 salt chocolate drops in an alternating pat­ tern on the plate and garnish the plate with the gold leaf. Spray small dabs of calamansi gel between the drops. Decorate the dabs of gel with cress and kumquats. Stick the brioche crisps in the drops and lay them down, then top them with a scoop of olive oil ice cream. Lightly sprinkle the drops with Fleur de Sel and drizzle the olive oil on the ice cream and between the drops.

Garnish 1 gold leaf 1 bowl of atsina cress Fleur de Sel 4 tbsp cold olive oil

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TOKYO

Paris-Tokyo is the title of Christian Bau's great menu a title which describes to perfection how he sees his cooking and which defines his unmistakable style. It is impossible to think of Bau's cuisine without thinking of hamachi, miso or dashi. But his fascination for Japanese culinary culture goes well beyond this. Christian Bau was probably the first of the great chefs in this country to incorporate Japanese taste into the European context and at the same time to adapt it, to make it more intense. This didn't just mean putting Japanese beef or chawan­ mushi on the menu and seasoning them with yuzu or mirin. Rather, he adopted core features embodying the spirit of Japanese haute cuisine. This means leav­ ing nothing to chance, thinking everything though and seeking precision and perfection in every detail. And naturally an obsessive focus on the ingredients. »I have

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never asked a supplier for the price« says Christian Bau. »I never talk about money; I only speak about charac­ teristics«. The Hawaiian palm heart that he serves with wild hare - as a puree or in lightly coloured slices - cost 58 euros per kilo ... Bau's awakening came on a trip to Tokyo in 2010, when, coinciding with the appearance of the first Michelin Guide for the Japanese capital, he visited the newly re­ commended restaurants. Mizutani, Ichikawa, Okuda ... Bau says »I was fascinated by the extreme concentra­ tion of the Japanese masters. The perfect technique, the rigor of the craft. Also their modesty, discipline and seriousness. How hard they were on themselves, how uncompromising. Every step counts«. This is a principle which for Bau is symbolic, and characterises his own uncompromising aesthetics. Every tiny element must be accurate, the slightest divergences must be corrected. This is a demand which lies at the very heart of his cui­ sine and which some can't live up to. A demand which also makes things difficult - for Bau himself and for those around him. »There are some things which one simply cannot do« is all he has to say on this topic.

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>DELUXE< SUSHI KING CRAB I GILLARDEAU OYSTERS I BIJOU DE LA MER

BLUE LOBSTER GREEN ZEBRA I BUFFALO MOZZARELLA I DASHI MELON

· ARTICHOKES WALNUT I TRUFFLES I POMELO

TURBOT RAZOR CLAMS I SPINACH I KATSUOBUSHI

HOT & SOUR SOUP >DELUXE< SEAFOOD I FOIE GRAS I TRUFFLES

AUBERGINE I PEPPERS I M'HAMSA I BLACK GARLIC

WILD STRAWBERRIES PLUM WINE I GREEN SHISO SORBET I CRISPS

COCONUT YUZU ICE CREAM VITAMIN-RICH FRUITS IN TEXTURE

MENU IV

DI SH I

>DELUXE< SUSHI KING CRAB GILLARDEAU OYSTERS BIJOU DE LA MER

Bijou de la mer Gillardeau oysters King crab and whitefish sushi Soy sauce gel Sushi vinaigrette

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DISH I

>DELUXE< SUSHI KING CRAB I GILLARDEAU OYSTERS I BIJOU DE LA MER

1 live king crab, about 3kg

Whitefish

Steam the live king crab at 100 'C for 12 minutes. Then take off the legs and claws and shock it in ice water. Steam the head for another 5 minutes at 100·c and then also shock it in ice water. Carefully remove the meat from the legs and the claws and free it from the pincers and the membranes. When pulling out the meat, do so in smaller chunks.

1 fillet of yellowfin mackerel or 1 large seabass (slaughtered using the ikejime method, 3kg gross weight, filleted, ready-to-cook) 2 00ml liquid marinade 1 (see below)

100ml Shiro dashi 100ml higashimaru ramen soup (ready-made soy sauce product) 250ml water 50ml chanponzu 5g agar-agar 5g gel Ian gum Bring all the liquids to the boil and thicken with agar-agar. Cool thoroughly and allow to gel. Then use the Thermomix to beat the mixture into a smooth gel.

Sushi 240g shelled, cleaned king crab meat (see above) 50g soya gel (see above) Zest of 1 untreated lime Maldon salt 8 slices of peeled white radish, 1mm thick, 6 x 15cm wide

Cut the fillet in half lengthwise and remove the bones. Then take the dorsal part from the skin, remove the fat and cut it into the shape you want. Store the belly in the refrigerator for other uses. Vacuum-seal the cleaned dorsal fillet with the liquid marinade 1 and marinate for 2 hours. Then remove it from the marinade, pat it dry and cut it into 16 slices, each 2 mm thick.

Liquid marinade 1 25g ginger 30g lemon grass 2 g kaffir lime leaves 2 g salt 350ml water 1 tsp rice vinegar Peel the ginger and cut it into small pieces. Beat the lemon grass and then it chop finely. Heat it with the kaffir lime leaves, salt and water at 80 ·c in a pot. Then cover with clingfilm and let it stand for 1 hour. Then strain, pour in rice vinegar and refrigerate.

10 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) Season the king crab flesh with soy gel, lime zest and Maldon salt. Put the same amount of this mixture in each of the radish slices. Cover the prepared rolls in cling foil and seal tightly. Finally allow it to cool in the refrigerator for 30 minutes and portion out 2 sushi from each roll, each 6 cm long.

Open the oysters and separate them from the muscle. Collect the oyster water and strain. Poach the oysters in the oyster water at 42 ·c for 1 minute. Then remove the beard and slice the oysters into 4 thin medallions.

MENU IV

Soy coating 72 ml soy tsuyu dashi (ready-made soy sauce product) 72 ml higashimaru ramen soup (ready-made soy sauce product) 195ml water 15 ml chanponzu 3.2 g xanthan gum Mix all the ingredients together and then add in the xanthan gum.

Sushi vinaigrette

TO SERVE

Place the whitefish on the sushi, brush with the soy coating and lay 2 oyster medallions on top. Then decorate with a dab of soy gel next to the oysters and put the lobster caviar on top. Garnish with flowers and cress and arrange everything on the plate. Finally, pour on the sushi vinaigrette and serve immediately.

Note: all the soy sauces and vinegars used for this dish come from >FoodConnectionLoosely< arrange the pomelo, walnut morsels, ar­ tichoke puree and pomelo gel on the plate. Garnish with all the garnishes and artichoke chips. Then, pour on truffle vinaigrette and the hot foamed artichoke stock. Finally, garnish with fresh truffles and the grissini.

Mix dashi, truffle juice and rice vinegar and thicken the mixture with xanthan gum. Then fold in the oils with a spoon to make a finely beaded mixture. Add the fried artichoke cubes to the vinaigrette with the chopped truffle and chives and season it with salt, pepper and sugar.

Grissini Walnut ---

- PAGE 167

P_o_m_ e_ lo _ _ge_ _l__

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Pomelo

1 pomelo (or pink grapefruit) Using a knife, separate the pomelo from the skin and cut it into segments. Cut the segments into 2cm pieces.

75 flour 6 ml olive oil 6 g porcini powder 2 g yeast 45 ml chicken stock (see page 345) 4g salt Process all ingredients to a smooth dough and let it stand for about 1 hour in cling film. Then sift some flour onto the countertop and roll it out to a thickness of 2 mm. Cut out strips that are 2 mm wide and 16cm long. Put the dough strips on a baking pan that is covered with a Silpat mat and bake at 160 ·c for 7-9 minutes.

Truffle

2 fresh winter truffles at 40-50 g (or Australian truffles) Peel the truffles and slice them thinly. Make donut shapes out of them using two cutting rings. Finely chop the resulting pieces and the peel and use them for the truffle vinaigrette (see right).

Garnish

16 small watercress leaves 16 rocket tips 16 tips of fine frisee lettuce 16 fine parmesan shavings 16 traditional pommes soufflees

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DISH IV

TURBOT RAZOR CLAMS SPINACH KATSUOBUSHI

Chive oil Dashi butter Katsuobushi jus Pearl onions Razor clams Spinach Spinach puree Thai leeks Turbot Watercress leaves

DISH IV

TURBOT RAZOR CLAMS I SPINACH I KATSUOBUSHI

Turbot

Dashi butter

2 Turbot fillets (1 large and 1 small back fillet) from a

250 ml white wine 750 ml dashi (see page 347) 100 g salted raw milk butter 100 g sweet cream butter Salt, cayenne pepper 50 g chives, chopped small

5 kg French turbot 1 L water 80 g salt 150 g salted butter 80 g butter 40g miso paste for flaming (see page 349) Cut the turbot with the skin into 4 hand-sized pieces. Mix water and salt to an 8 % brine solution and marinade the turbot in it for 18 minutes. Then pat the fish dry, cover it with thin strips of salted butter and vacuum seal it. Then cook it at 48 'C in the bain-marie for 9 minutes. Remove it from the water and leave it to rest in a warm place for about 6 minutes. Remove it from the bag. Dry it and heat the butter in a pan until it begins to foam. Baste the turbot and sear the skin with a culinary torch until the skin can be easily removed. Then thinly coat the outer side of the fish with the searing paste and then torch it again. Let the fish stand in a warm place for 2-3 minutes, and then slice it.

Reduce the white wine by a third and then pour in the dashi. Reduce to 200 ml. Then put in the butter and season to taste with salt, cayenne pepper and dashi. Foam up shortly before serving and add chives.

Miso paste for searing 85 g light miso paste 1 7 g honey 17 ml mirin 8.5 g salt Mix all the ingredients and refrigerate. Stir up again before use. Coat the fish with it on the fillet side after browning and caramelise the paste with the culinary torch.

Razor clams 1 kg razor clams 30 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) Salt, pepper Soak the razor clams in cold water for about 1 hour. Then separate the clam meat from the shell. Dry it carefully and roll it up tightly in cling film. Cook the razor clams for 3 minutes at 48 'C in the bain-marie and immediately shock in iced water. Then take out the clam meat, cut it diagonally, marinate it in shiso vinaigrette, add salt and pepper, and warm it in the Hold-o-Mat at 65 'C for 10 minutes.

MENU IV

Turbotjus

Spinach puree

1 turbot head 1 carrot 1 shallot 1 clove of garlic 3 tbsp vegetable oil 0.75 ml veal jus (see page 344) 20 g bonito flakes (katsuobushil 2 tbsp low-salt soy sauce 4 g xanthan gum

750 g fresh spinach Salt 100 ml cream 2 tbsp butter White pepper, nutmeg 50 g brown sugar 2 tbsp brown butter

Cut the turbot head into quarters and soak it for about 30 minutes. Then store it in iced water for 24 hours. Cut the carrot and shallot into slices, cut the garlic clove in half and slow cook all these ingredients in oil. Cook the soaked turbot head in the oven at 160 'C for 1 hour. Turn the head once during the cooking. Then bring the turbot head to the boil once in a pot with the vegetables and the veal jus and then let it simmer it for 1 hour at low heat. Then strain and heat the stock to 80 'C. Add 20 g bonito flakes per litre stock and let it stand for 1 more hour. Finally, pass it through a line sieve, season to taste with soy sauce and thicken with xanthan gum.

Thai leeks 16 stems of line Thai leeks (garlic chives) 20 g butter 40 L chicken stock (see page 345) Salt, pepper, sugar Cut the Thai leeks into 7 cm lengths, removing the outer skin. Then sweat in butter, deglaze with chicken stock and stew lightly in it. Season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar.

TO SERVE

Place the turbot in the centre of a warmed plate. Arrange the spinach puree, Thai leeks and pearl onions around it and garnish with marinated spinach and watercress leaves. Finally pour on the hot turbot jus and the foamed dashi butter and finish it with chive oil.

Clean the spinach thoroughly and remove stalks. Blanch in salt water and shock in iced water. Rinse out the blanched spinach in order to remove all excess liquid. Then put it in Pacojet container and freeze for 12 hours. Then pacotize at least three times. Freeze the spinach >mat< after each pacotizing. To serve, put the spinach mat with cream and butter in a pot and bring to the boil. Season it with salt, pepper, sugar, nutmeg. and brown butter. If necessary, strain the puree in order to remove the remaining pieces of spinach.

Pearl onions 10 small pearl onions 50ml water 50 ml white balsamic vinegar 50 g sugar 2 g salt Peel the pearl onions. Bring the remaining ingre­ dients to the boil and pour over peeled onions. Let them stand for 12 hours. Then cut the pearl onions lengthwise in half and sear them with a culinary torch. Remove the skins from the pearl onions, without damaging the seared side. Select the most attractive pearl onions skins. Garnish 200 g small spinach leaves 24 small watercress leaves 20 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) 30 ml chive oil (see page 348) Marinate the spinach and watercress leaves with shiso vinaigrette.

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MENU IV

DISH V

HOT & SOUR

SOUP >DE LUXE< SEAFOOD FOIE GRAS TRUFFLE

Abalone Beech mushrooms Chawanmushi Coriander leaves Edamame Enoki Goose liver Hot & Sour Soup Miso oil Mu err (wood earl mushrooms Red Gamberoni Shellfish oil Sweetcorn Truffle

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BAU.STEINE DISH V

A almost artistic masterly combination of several worlds: Bau takes the blazing hot, super spicy and addictive soup that is served in a thousand variations by every second Asian cooking stand and tempers it with choice Japanese savoury custard. Marinated pork neck and chilli, garlic and coriander, lightly thickened, encounter the elegance of creamy, silky tofu - the perfect stage for a real fireworks display of the most refined aromas and textures, crunchy-sweetgamberoni segments, nutty abalone slices, cubes of smooth goose liv­ er, aromatic truffles, mushrooms, edama­ me ... Every spoonful creates a new taste experience, tartness, spiciness, sweet­ ness and silky creaminess competing to reach your synapses. Ravishing!

ME

Hot & Sour Soup

Chawanmushi

Red Gamberoni

500 g pork neck 500 g chicken breast 500 ml low-salt soy sauce 100 g mu err (wood ear) mushrooms, dried 100 g shiitake mushrooms, dried 100 g enoki mushrooms, dried 500 ml warm water 2 tbsp vegetable oil 50 ml Bordeaux vinegar 50 ml rice vinegar 1 garlic bulb 1 L chicken stock (see page 345) 1 chili pod 10 g coriander

400 ml dashi (see page 347) 1.5 g bonito flakes 1 g kaffir limes 2g ginger 2.2g kombu 0.5 g unwaxed yuzu zest (or lemon zest) 3.5 ml white soy sauce 8 g oysters 4 ml Jakobs dashi (finished product) 50 ml cream 4 egg yolks 4 eggs Salt, sugar

4 red gamberoni, without the shell (6/8 calibration) Salt, pepper

Trim the pork neck and chicken the breast and chop them into small pieces. Marinate the meat in the soy sauce and let it stand for 30 minutes. Lay the dried mushrooms in warm water and let them also stand for 30 minutes. Then put the meat in a sieve, allow it to drain well and fry it in oil in a very hot pot. Add Bordeaux and rice vinegar as well as garlic. Then add the mushrooms along with the mushroom water. Top up with chicken stock and add the chilli and the coriander. Bring to the boil once and then let it stand for about 5 hours. Finally strain the soup.

_ i_n_g _ t_he_ _H_o_t _& _ S_ o_ u_r _S _o_ u _p__ PAGE 178 _ y _ _ r if _Cla _A_ro_m_a _t i _s_in�g _ t_h_e _H_o_t_&_S _ o_u _r_S _o _u�p__ PAGE 178

Heat the dashi to 70 ·c, then add all the ingredients except the cream and the eggs. Cover and let stand for 30 minutes. Then strain, add the cream and eggs and mix well. Season it with salt and sugar. Fill a porcelain bowl (or 8-9cm diameter Asian teacup) and place it in a deep roasting pan. Cover the tray with aluminium foil and heat at 80 ·c for 35-40 minutes in a steam oven. When removing from oven, ensure that the chawanmushi has thickened .

Put each gamberoni on a wooden skewer (Schaschlik) right through the middle, so that it can remain straight when it is being cooked. Then season on all sides with salt and pepper and briefly saute them in a hot Teflon pan (60-80 seconds). Remove the skewer and cut each gamberoni into 1 cm thick pieces. The gamberoni should be thor­ oughly translucent.

DISH V

HOT & SOUR SOUP >DE LUXE< SEAFOOD I FOIE GRAS I TRUFFLE

_H_ot _ & _ _ S_o_ur _ o _ __,p__ PAG _ S _ u

E 177

Clarifying the Hot& So ur Soup 1 L Hot & Sour Soup (see page 177) 500 ml liquid egg white 250 g clarifying meat (minced chicken meat) Blend all ingredients with a hand-held blender and bring the mixture to the boil in the soup on low heat. During this process, continually remove the mixture from the bottom of the pot to prevent sticking. Then strain the clarified soup through a cloth strainer.

Arom atising the Hot& SourSoup 1 L clarified Hot & Sour Soup (see page 177) 1 red chilli, without seeds 100 g coriander 20 g ginger 2 tbsp soy sauce, best quality approx. 4 g xanthan gum Heat up the soup then add all ingredients and let it stand for about 10 minutes. Then strain and lightly thicken it with the xanthan gum.

Chawanmushi - - ----PAGE 177

Insert 40 enoki mushrooms 40 mu err (wood ear) mushrooms 40 beech mushrooms 1 tbsp vegetable oil Salt, pepper 40 edamame 40 kernels of corn 24 chilli threads 1 x 30-40 g truffles, peeled 200 g fry-ready goose liver, best quality, nerves removed Trim the enoki tips to a length of about 2 cm. Remove the mu err mushrooms from the soup mixture and cut them into small triangles of 1 cm in length. Shorten the beech mushrooms to about 2 cm, brown in vegetable oil and season with salt and pepper. Remove the skin from the edamame and warm it up in some hot & sour soup. Lightly sear the sweetcorn kernels using a culinary torch and then warm them up in the soup, too. For the chilli threads, cut a chilli into very fine strips and place them in iced water until they curl up. For the truffle coins, cut a truffle in thin slices and cut out 24 coins with a ring (3 cm diameter). Cut the goose liver into 2 cm thick slices and season it with salt and pepper. Then vacuum seal each slice separately and cook them for 9 minutes at 58 •c in the bain-marie. Then allow the slices to cool completely in iced water. Cut them into cubes and brown on all sides with a culinary torch. Finally, cook the goose liver cubes for a further 2 minutes in the oven at 200 ·c until done.

MENU IV

Abalone 2 large, live abalones 10 ml dashi (see page 347) 10 ml light brown soy sauce 10g kombu Cut the abalones from their shells, wash, clean and hit gently with a tenderiser. Then put the other ingredients into a vacuum pouch and heat at 72 'C in a bain-marie for 12 hours. Then them cool off and cut them into 1 mm thick slices. Before serving 3 slices per portion, warm them up to 63 ·c in the Hold-o-mat for 5 minutes.

TO SERVE

Briefly warm up the bowl with the chawanmushi in the oven at 120'C. Then place the king prawns, abalone and goose liver cubes on top. Then distrib­ ute enoki mushrooms, mu err mushrooms, beech mushrooms, edamame, chilli threads, truffle, sweetcorn and coriander leaves evenly in the bowl. Pour the heated Hot & Sour Soup over the dish and drizzle finish it off by drizzling miso oil and shellfish oil onto it.

Red Gamberoni

-

----- PAGE 177

Garnish 24 coriander leaves Miso oil (see page 348) Shellfish oil (see page 128)

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MENU IV

DI SH VI

LAMB AUBERGINE PEPPERS M'HAMSA BLACK GARLIC

Aubergine foam Aubergine puree Baked aubergine Belly of lamb terrine Black garlic paste Coriander oil Lambjus M'Hamsa Paprika drops Pearl onions Pommes soufflees Red pepper cream Saddle of lamb

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BAU.STEINE DISH VI

Lamb is one of the main cornerstones of great French cuisine. Nowadays, excep­ tional quality lamb is produced in Germany too. The tenderness and delicacy of the meat produced at Hofgut Pelting re­ minds Christian Bau of the best Sisteron lamb. Browned the meat until crispy, gen­ tly cooking it in the oven until it is pink and then baste it with foamed, garlic and thyme.infused butter. Even by itself, this meat would be a delight. This is all the more so when harmonised with its deep­ ly flavoured, aromatic jus made of lamb shoulder, sherry, port ... Bau's character­ istically Asian-influenced accompaniment is sweetish, earthy, slightly bitter and smoky: a baked, grilled aubergine that, with its coating of sake, mirin and miso paste, absorbs the depth of the sauce.

MENU IV

Lamb

Baked aubergine

Lamb jus

4 pieces of deboned saddle of lamb at 180g with fat covering it, matured for 14 days on the bone (recommendation: lamb from Hofgut Pelting) Salt, pepper 2 tbsp vegetable oil 50g butter 3 cloves of garlic 3 thyme sprigs Fleur de Sel

1 small firm aubergine Vegetable oil for deep-frying 25ml sake 25ml mirin 25g brown sugar 50g miso paste 3g sesame seeds 3g salt 1 pinch of Fleur de Sel

Trim all but about 3mm off the fat covering from the saddle of lamb and then make hash-like incisions into the thin coat of fat. Season the meat with salt and pepper and brown all around but primarily on the fat side. Then continue to cook in the oven at 200 •c for 3 minutes, then allow it to stand in the Hold-o-Mat at 63 ·c for at least 30 minutes. Baste the lamb in a pan with butter foamed up with garlic and thyme until it shows a core temperature of 53 ·c. Let the meat stand again for 10 minutes. Before serving, brown the fat side on the griddle until it is good and crispy. Then cut it lengthwise and season with salt and coarsely ground pepper.

Cut the aubergine into slices and prick the skin several times with a needle. Then fry it until it is golden brown in oil at 180 •c for 75-90 seconds and shock it in iced water. Then bring sake, mirin and sugar to the boil together, and mix with the miso paste to form a coating. Lay the aubergine slices on a lightly dampened tray and brush them with the miso coating. Then cook in the over at 220•c for 3 minutes and then grill them for 2 more minutes on the Green Egg Grill. Lightly roast the sesame seeds, grind them in a mortar with the salt and sprinkle the mixture over the aubergine. Finally, season with Fleur de Sel.

50g carrots 50g celery 70g mushrooms 70g shallots 1 garlic bulb 4 tbsp vegetable oil 1kg shoulder of lamb 2 bay leaves 10 white peppercorns 5 juniper berries 150ml madeira 150ml red port 100ml Neilly Prat 50ml sherry 1.2 L veal jus (see page 344) Salt, pepper 1 pinch of xanthan gum 50ml cold (!) Olive oil Clean all the vegetables, cut them into hazel­ nut-sized pieces and brown them in vegetable oil. Then roughly trim the shoulder of lamb, cut it also into hazelnut-sized pieces, add it to the vegetables and cook them together. Add the seasonings and slowly add the alcohol and allow the mixture to completely reduce. Then fill to the top with veal jus and allow to slowly simmer for 3 hours. Strain the jus, reduce it to 400 ml, season it with salt and pepper and thicken it with xanthan gum. Shortly before serving, whip in the olive oil using a whisk.

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DISH VI

LAMB AUBERGINE I PEPPERS I M'HAMSA I BLACK GARLIC

Lamb ----PAGE 183 Belly of lamb terrine

1 kg belly of lamb Salt, pepper 5 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp transglutaminase 3 tbsp onion crumble (see right) 10 g chives, finely sliced Remove the majority of the fat from the lamb belly. Season the belly with salt and pepper and brown it in olive oil on (only!) one side. Powder the other side with a very Ii ne coat of transglutaminase. Then layer the lamb saddle in a terrine mould covered with cling film. Press it down. Cover it with film and double vacuum seal it. Steam for 30 minutes at 80 ·c and then cook it in the Hold-o-Mat at 75 •c for 12 hours. Cool the terrine thoroughly in iced water then slice it lengthwise in 1.5 cm thick squares that are 3.5 cm long. To serve, saute the terrine pieces on all sides until golden brown and sprinkle them with onion crumble and chives.

Lambjus

PAGE 183

Aubergine mixture

Aubergine puree

8 aubergines 8 tbsp olive oil Salt, pepper, sugar 8 thyme sprigs 8 rosemary sprigs

Aubergine mixture (see left) Miso reduction (see right) Salt, pepper, sugar 1 pinch of xanthan gum

Cut the aubergines in half lengthwise and cut crosses into them, moisten lightly with olive oil, season with salt, pepper and sugar, and sprinkle thyme and rosemary sprigs on every second aubergine half. Then close up the aubergines and wrap them in alumin­ ium foil. Cook the aubergines in the oven at 250 ·c for 35 minutes. Then scrape the flesh out of the aubergines and remove the seeds. Use a cloth sieve to drain the liquid. Then use the Thermomix to process it well.

Miso reduct ion

50 g shallots, chopped small 1 clove of garlic, crushed 50 mushrooms, finely chopped 3 tbsp vegetable oil 100 g miso paste 70 ml sherry vinegar 200 ml veal jus (see page 344) 1 small sprig of thyme 1 small sprig of rosemary Saute the shallots, garlic and mush­ rooms in oil. Add the miso paste and brown everything lightly. Add sherry vinegar and reduce. Then fill it up with the veal jus, a little thyme and rosemary and let it simmer down to about a half. Lastly, pass through a fine conical sieve.

Season the aubergine mixture with the miso reduction. Season it with salt, pepper and sugar, and thicken it a bit with xanthan gum. Then reduce in a pot to a third of the weight until the puree is no longer runny.

Auberg ine foam

200 g aubergine puree (see above) 4 ml lemon juice 5g mustard 2 eggs 120 ml grape seed oil 40 ml miso oil (see page 348) Salt, sugar, pepper 1 pinch of ground cumin Work the aubergine puree into an aubergine foam as described under >Vegetable foam< (see page 349) and season with cumin.

B ked _ _ er_ ..=g in _ e_ __ _a _ _ _ _aub

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MENU IV

M'Hamsa

Onion puree

Black garlic paste

300 ml chicken stock (see page 345) 150g hand-rolled couscous (M'Hamsa ) 1 yellow pepper 1 red pepper 1 courgette 30g Taggiasca olives, chopped 1 tbsp vegetable oil 4 tbsp lamb jus (see page 183) 30g butter 20g parsley, finely chopped Salt, pepper, sugar

300g white onions Salt, sugar 30g creme frakhe 1 pinch of xanthan gum Cayenne pepper

80g black garlic 20 g black rice vinegar 20g low-salt soy sauce, best quality Salt, sugar

Reduce the chicken stock by a half. Then add the couscous. Remove it from the heat and let it stand for 20 minutes. Then put it onto a tray and refrigerate. Peel the peppers. Make 2mm thick pieces by cutting through the courgette skin and chopping everything into 2mm cubes. Briefly saute the vegetable with the olives in some vegetable oil in a hot pan. Then add the couscous and cook until creamy with the lamb jus and some butter. If needed, add some more chicken stock. Finally, add parsley and season with salt, pepper and sugar.

Pearl onions

10 small pearl onions 50ml water 50ml white balsamic vinegar 50g sugar 2g salt Peel the pearl onions. Bring the remaining ingredients to the boil and pour over peeled onions. Let them stand for 12 hours. Then cut the pearl onions in half lengthwise and sear them with a culinary torch. Remove the skins from the pearl onions, with­ out damaging the seared side. Select the most attractive pearl onions skins.

Peel the onions and cut into 5mm strips. Season with salt and sugar and leave for 20 minutes to draw off the water from the onions. Simmer the dehydrated onions in the resulting liquid in a pot until they become soft and then cover them with perforated baking paper. Then drain the onions and mix them in the Thermomix with creme frakhe and xanthan gum until the mixture is fine. Then pass through a fine sieve and reduce in a pot until firm. Then put them in the Thermomix again and mix them until they are fine. Lastly, season them with salt, sugar and cayenne pepper and pass them through a fine strainer.

Onion crumble

1 white onion 100g flour 1 pinch of paprika powder 500ml vegetable oil 60g chopped almonds Salt, sugar, cinnamon Peel the onions and slice into thin rings. Mix the flour and paprika pow­ der, cover the onion rings with the mixture and then deep fry at 160 •c. Immediately salt the onion rings and add a little sugar. Then lightly roast the chopped almonds in the oven at 200 •c. Chop the deep-fried onion rings finely. Mix them with the almonds and season them with salt, sugar and a pinch of cinnamon.

Press the garlic th rough a fine sieve and then mix it with rice vinegar and soy sauce in the Thermomix for 2 minutes at the highest setting until fine. Pass it through a fine strainer and season it with salt and sugar.

Red pepper cream

TO SERVE

Arrange a scoop of the m'hamsa and the baked aubergine in the centre of a pre-warmed plate. Place the saddle of lamb and the belly of lamb on the plate. Drape the aubergine puree, the aubergine foam, the onion puree, the pepper cream and the black garlic around them. Then garnish with onion skins, mini paprika drops, pommes souffles and affilla cress. Drizzle the coriander oil in the onion skins and finally pour on the hot sauce.

5 red peppers 50ml vodka approximately 4g agar-agar approximately 2g gel Ian gum Salt, pepper, sugar Remove the core from the pepper and chop the pepper finely. Then sau­ te in a very hot pot, add vodka and allow to liquid to completely boil away. Then mix in a Thermomix until smooth. Weigh and add 1g agar-agar and 0.5g of gel Ian gum per 100g of the mixture and, stirring constantly, reduce the mixture in a pot until the mixture has acquired a strong, paprika red colour. Then let it cool, process in the Thermomix again until fine and season with salt, pepper and sugar.

Garnish

24 red mini paprika drops (ready­ made product ) lightly warmed 8 traditional pommes soufflees 8 affilla cress tips 10ml coriander oil (see page 348)

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MENU IV

DISH VII

WILD STRAWBERRIES PLUM WINE GREEN SHISO SORBET CRISPS

Crispy strings Green shiso sorbet Plum wine foam Strawberry soup Wild strawberries

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DISH VII

WILD STRAWBERRIES PLUM WINE I GREEN SHISO SORBET I CRISPS

Green shiso sorbet

Plum wine foam

175 ml water 150 g coconut milk 90 g sugar 2.5 g Super Neut rose 40 g plum wine 22.5 g yuzu juice 15 g green shiso leaves

150 ml plum wine 10 g sugar 17 g lime juice 1 ½ leaves of gelatine, softened and squeezed 20 g Proespuma Hot 1 tbsp Xanthazoon

Heat up the water and the coconut milk in the Thermomix to 45 'C. Mix the sugar and Super Neutrose and add to the coconut and water mixture. Raise the temperature in the Thermomix to 80 'C. Meanwhile, add the plum wine and yuzu juice. Once 80 'C is reached, freeze the mixture with the green shiso leaves in a Pacojet container. Then repeatedly alternate pacotizing and refreezing the sorbet. Repeat the procedure until the green shiso leaf pieces are no longer recognisable. Before serving, freeze the prepared sorbet again for at least 12 hours and, if necessary, pacotize.

Boil up the plum wine with sugar and lime juice. Dissolve the gelatine in this and stir to cool in an iced water bath. Slowly mix in the Proespuma and Xanthazoon into the mixture, avoiding lumps. Put the mixture into an iSi-Siphon and load with 2 gas capsules. Refrigerate for at least 6 hours before use.

Crispy strings

Strawberry stock

50 g kataifi pastry 2 tbsp clarified butter ½ tbsp powdered sugar ½ espresso spoon of light sesame seeds, toasted ½ espresso spoon of dark sesame seeds

30ml water 30 g sugar 500 g frozen strawberries 25 g strawberry syrup (Monin) 1 vanilla pod 1 g xanthan gum

Spread out the pastry on a 15-18 cm long Silpat mat. Cover it with a little butter and lightly sift icing sugar onto it. Bake it in a preheated oven at 150 'C for about 5 minutes until golden. Remove it from the oven, brush it with the remaining butter and sprinkle the sesame seeds onto it.

Boil water and sugar to produce simple syrup. Then marinade the frozen strawberries with the simple syrup, strawberry syrup and vanilla bean and pour them into a deep tray. Cover everything with aluminium foil and put the tray into the oven at 120 ·c for 1 hour. Then pour into a cloth strainer and let it drain for at least 12 hours. Thicken the resulting stock with xanthan gum.

Garnish 3 dishes of fresh wild strawberries 1 cornflower blossom 1 marigold 1 pack of green shiso cress

MENU IV

TO SERVE

Arrange the wild strawberries in the shape of a star in a deep dish and pour the strawberry stock over them. Put the plum wine foam over the wild straw­ berries and place the shiso sorbet on top. Lay the crispy strings on the plate and decorate the dish with flowers and cress.

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MENU IV

DISH VI 11

COCONUT YUZU ICE CREAM VITAMIN-RICH BERRIES

Banana cream

Mango

Coconut

Mangosteens

Coconut crisps

Melon

Coconut yuzu ice cream

Multivitamin ice pearls

Dragon fruit, red & white

Passion fruit cream with coconut coating

Exotic fruit gel

Passion fruit crisps

Kiwi

Passion fruit macaroons

Kumquats

Pineapple spheres

Lime financier

Yoghurt sponge

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BAU.STEINE DISH VIII

Exotic fruits: mango, mangosteens and dragon fruit are some of Christian Bau's greatest passions. The complexity of their aromas and textures provides the perfect interplay of fruitiness and tartness. Here he combines a vast array of the fruity and the exotic, optimally ripe micro-elements to create a signature dish. They are the quintessence of his cuisine displayed in just a tiny space: focus on ingredients, perfect craftsmanship and boundless complexity. Around 40 different steps are required before the dish can be served - and that's just the part related to serving itself. At home, you'll just have to console yourself with a perfect coconut yuzu ice cream, a passion fruit cream that can be used any­ where and a gel made of exotic fruits, until your next visit to Schloss Berg.

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Passion fruit cream

Exotic gel

Coconut yuzu ice cream

520g passion fruit puree 160g sugar 270g butter 240g egg yolks 120g egg whites 8 gelatine leaves

200g pineapple juice 100g pineapple puree 100g mango puree 50g coconut puree 50g brown sugar Pulp from ½ vanilla pod 6g agar-agar 6g gellan gum

560g coconut puree 440g milk 50 g glucose syrup 50g coconut flakes, toasted 160g sugar 40g coconut liqueur (batida de coco) 100g egg yolks 10g yuzu flavour 40ml yuzu juice

Heat the passion fruit puree, the sugar and the butter to 8o·c in the Thermomix. Add egg yolks and egg whites and make a rose out of it. Soak the gelatine in ice-cold water and then add the gelatine to the egg mixture. Fill the mixture into 2.3 x 2.3cm silicon moulds, smooth out the top of it with a palette knife and freeze it in a blast freezer. Allow it to become firm and then carefully remove it from the mould. (Note: this mixture is enough for about 2 mats, a total of 108 pieces)

Bring all ingredients to the boil and boil them for 1 minute. Pour the mixture onto a tray and then allow it to cool. Then mix it in Thermomix until smooth.

Bring the coconut puree, milk, glucose and coco­ nut flakes to the boil, cover and let it stand for 12 hours. Then strain the flavoured milk and emulsify it with sugar, batida de coco and the egg yolks. Then add yuzu flavour and yuzu juice, fill them into 2 Pacojet containers and freeze. Pacotize as required.

Coconut coating

840ml coconut milk 40ml coconut liqueur (batida de coco) 160g sugar 48 g vegetable gelatine (Sosa) Bring all ingredients to the boil. Push a toothpick into the centre of the passion fruit cubes and, while still frozen, dip them carefully into the co­ conut coating. Then let the cubes defrost. Remove the tooth pick, once the cubes have defrosted. Ensure that no yellow edges are visible through the coating.

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DISH VIII

COCONUT YUZU ICE CREAM VITAMIN-RICH FRUITS IN TEXTURE

Passion fr uit cream ------- PAGE

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Pineap p le drops 140ml pineapple juice 330g pineapple puree 40g coconut liqueur (batida de coco) The pulp of 1 vanilla pod 4g xanthan gum Mix all ingredients in the Thermomix, without letting in air, until everything is smooth. Fill the mixture into 3cm diameter hemispherical silicon moulds, smooth out the top of it with a palette knife. Then, freeze in a blast freezer. Allow it to become firm and then carefully remove it from the mould. (Note: this mixture is enough for about 2 mats, a total of 104 pieces)

Pineapple coating 600ml water 320g lime juice 3g Citras 80g sugar 75g vegetable gelatine (Sosa) Bring all ingredients to the boil. Push a toothpick into the centre of the pineapple drops and, while still frozen, dip them carefully into the pineapple coating. Then let the drops defrost. Remove the tooth pick once defrosted.

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Kumquats 500g kumquats 350ml water 350g fresh orange juice 350g sugar ½ vanilla pod (pulp and pod) 1 bay leaf ½ cinnamon stick 4 cloves Zest of 1 unwaxed lemon Cook the kumquats for about 1 minute until they are soft and then shock them in iced water. Cut the ends straight so that the kumquats can stand on them. Then cut in half, diagonally and remove the core. Bring the remaining ingredients to the boil and pour them over the sliced kum­ quats. Fill into a vacuum bag. Drain, if required and arrange.

Yoghurt sponge 300g egg whites 62g ground almonds 60g Yopol 60g sugar 20g flour Mix all ingredients and blend at level 10 in the Thermomix for 4 minutes. Put the mixture into an iSi-Siphon, load with 4 gas cartridges and refri­ gerate for 12 hours. Then fill plastic cups to about a quarter with the mix­ ture and cook in the microwave for 30 seconds at 1200 Watts. Remove, cool briefly and eject from the cups. (Note: this batter is enough for 5 cups) Break the sponge into small, light pieces and dry them in the oven at 50·c for about 12 hours.

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Mul tivitamin ice pearls Lime fin ancier 190 g egg whites 240g icing sugar Zest of 4 unwaxed limes 120g ground almonds 100g flour 240g butter, lukewarm Use a mixer to whip the egg whites and the icing sugar. Mix the lime zest with the ground almonds and flour and fold them into the whipped eggs. Then stir in the butter. Spread the mixture on a deep 25 x 30cm tray and bake until golden brown at 180•c for 25-30 minutes.

300g passion fruit puree 325g pineapple puree 75ml glucose syrup 125ml orange juice 140 g lime juice 10g grenadine (Monin) 250 g sugar ¼ cinnamon stick 3 gelatine leaves, softened and squeezed Bring all the ingredients except the gelatine to the boil. Remove the cinnamon and finely puree everything in a Thermomix at 50•c. Strain and dissolve the gelatine in the mixture. Using a spray bottle, trickle the multi­ vitamin mixture into liquid nitrogen in order to make the pearls. Then with a skimmer carefully remove the pearls, place them on a plate and freeze until needed.

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Banana cream Crunchy crust 50 g praline dough 20g milk chocolate couverture 12g chopped caramelised almonds 12g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers) Mix the praline dough and the cou­ verture chocolate and temper the mixture. Fold in the almonds and the Eclat d'Or and spread out about 2 mm thin on a tray covered with baking paper. Allow the crust to cool in the refrigerator and then freeze it. While frozen, cut out with a ring (2.5cm diameter) and keep it frozen until use.

Spray chocolate 100 g white couverture chocolate 75g cocoa butter A few drops of green, oil-soluble food colouring Mix the couverture with the cocoa butter and temper. Colour it with the food colouring until the desired colour is reached and then put it into an airbrush pistol. Spray the frozen banana hemispheres evenly. Before serving, remove the toothpick and garnish the hemispheres with the exotic gel and gold leaves.

Passion fruit crisps 125g passion fruit puree 50 g glucose 150ml liquid butter 100 g icing sugar 150g flour 150g egg whites Mix all the ingredients and spread thinly on a Silpat mat. Bake until golden at 160 ·c, then store in a cool place. (Note: this mixture is enough for about 3 Silpat mats.)

Garnish Coco crisps

Cream 90ml cream 75g banana puree 1 g banana flavour 115g white couverture chocolate 75g egg yolk Mix cream, banana puree and banana flavour, bring to the boil and mix with the couverture chocolate in the Thermomix at 85 ·c. Add egg yolk at 85 •c and make a rose out of the mixture. Then fill a terrine form with the mixture and cook, covered, in a bain-marie in the oven at 130 •c for 2 hours. Then allow the mixture to cool thoroughly and reheat in a Ther­ momix to 50 ·c. Then fill up silicon hemispherical moulds (2.5cm in di­ ameter), lay the mixture evenly on top of the frozen crispy base and freeze for at least 12 hours. While frozen, push a toothpick into the centre of the flat side and coat it with the spray chelate (see right).

1 coconut Simple syrup Break open the coconut and remove the hard shell. Then slice the coconut into thin slices of about 4cm long and bring to the boil in simple syrup. Then spread them out over sufficient­ ly large silicon moulds so that the strips do not overlap and dry them in the oven at 80 ·c for about 12 hours.

32 balls each of melon, dragon fruit and mango, prepared using a melon baller 40 balls each of melon, dragon fruit and mango, prepared using a ball mould 3 fresh mangosteens, peeled and broken into segments 3 tbsp freshy grated coconut 1 bowl of atsina cress 2 leaves of gold leaf

TO SERVE

Cut out the financier with a ring (3.5cm diameter) and place it in the centre. Place the grated coconut on the kumquats and place them op­ posite each other, the same distance from the ring. Likewise, place the drops and the cubes opposite each other, the same distance from the financier. Then place the banana cream half moons on the plate and arrange the fruit in a circle around the ring and the crunchy elements inside the ring. Fill the gap between the financier and the fruit with the multi­ vitamin ice pearls and the exotic gel. Place a quenelle of the coconut yuzu ice cream on the financier. Garnish with freshly grated coconut, cress and gold leaf.

Passion fruit macaroons 200ml passion fruit puree 2 tbsp white balsamic vinegar 30 g egg white powder 2 tbsp sugar 20 g icing sugar Whip all ingredients in the mixer until the dough is stiff. Use an icing bag with a small plain tip (0. 7 cm diameter) to create small macaroons on cho­ colate-making foil and dry them in the dehydrator at 60 ·c for 12 hours.

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THE KITCHEN

Albert Camus said, »we should see Sisyphus as a happy man«. And therefore imagine that the doomed figure who was forced to roll up a rock up the steepest of slopes for all eternity was doing so with joy ... Every Wednesday morning everything begins from scratch in the Schloss Berg kitchen. In a space smaller than twenty-five square metres spread around the large oven in the middle, ten chefs are at their posts. They're concentrating on cutting precise chunks of tuna belly to make tartare, removing miniscule blood vessels from goose livers, vacuum-sealing razor clams with vinai­ grette, searing tiny onions, marinating cucumber pearls, shelling brown crabs, trimming saddle of lamb, roasting lobster, preparing bouillons, clarifying stocks, stirring vinaigrettes, deep-frying potato puffs, glazing frozen mozzarella pearls, filling fruit purees into spray cans,

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drying edible caramel paper ... there are hundreds, thou­ sands, even tens of thousand of hand movements. At the serving counter there are two waiters polishing plates and in the background a dishwasher is peeling shallots. Everything has to be ready by 5 p.m., and everything else that has already been prepared is hidden away in drawers, cupboards, pots, boxes and bottles. The grill is scoured with steel wool and all around the worktops are shining. Christian Bau tests every stock and every vin­ aigrette, nods his head approvingly or gives advice on what's missing, then the storm begins ... »Cooking at the very highest level«, as Eckart Witzig­ mann said once, »is like driving a Formula 1 race twice a day«: Intense concentration, zero tolerance for failure and always, always against the clock. There is absolute calm when the food is arranged on the plate with up to five chefs working at the same time on the same plate. Only on rare occasions will a hand tremble a little when placing a tiny leaf of shiso cress on a miniscule dab of gel. Christian Bau's authority over his team derives from the fact that he has an unrivalled command of his craft. He is able to cook every dish at every post in the kitchen without exception. In twenty years at Schloss Berg he has never let a plate leave his kitchen which he hasn't looked over first. From the first foie-gras macaroon to the last praline there is one simple rule: »95 % is just not good enough.«

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SALMON FROM LOCH DUART [THE BELLY] OYSTER I KUMQUAT I CUCUMBER

GOOSE LIVER FROM LANDES ARABICA COFFEE I PIEDMONT HAZELNUT I SOUR CHERRY

SCALLOPS PUMPKIN I CHICKEN I WHITE TRUFFLE

SEA BASS [IKEJIME] BBQ-EEL I AUBERGINE I KOJYU VINAIGRETTE

VENDEE GUINEA FOWL RAZOR CLAMS I SMALL ARTICHOKES I PRESERVED LEMON

FLAT IRON STEAK CORN STRUCTURES I BLACK GARLIC I ONION

CITRUS FRUITS GREEK YOGHURT I CANDIED OLIVES I SPONGE

BANANA SPLIT [RELOADED] BANANA I CREAM I TAHITI VANILLA I CHOCOLATE

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DISH I

LOCH DUART SALMON [THE BELLY] OYSTER

KUMQUAT

CUCUMBER

Citrus gel Cucumber gel Cucumber ice cream Cucumber kimchi Cucumbers Hijiki Kimizu Kumquats Oyster Oyster cream Oyster ice cream Passe-pierre seaweed Salmon belly Salty finger cress Seaweed chip Tomato dashi

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BAU.STEINE DISH I

Christian Bau leaves nothing to chance. Everything is planned, thought through, considered. In this dish an ostensibly straightforward product is converted into a delicacy by giving extraordinary atten­ tion to detail. A rather fatty salmon belly is marinated in classic style for exactly 25 minutes in coarse-ground salt and brown sugar. It is then smoked for two minutes, cooked for 10 minutes in a 40 °C bain-ma­ rie, cooled in iced water for 30 minutes, flamed for a couple of seconds in a soy sauce and mirin mixture and then served in 7 mm slices. In tune with Bau's predilec­ tion for cold sauces, the following tomato dashi lines the plate: tomato water, light miso paste, dried shiitake, ginger and co­ riander oil. The texture of the tender, tart baby pickles serves as contrast to the oily, smooth fish.

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Salmon belly

Pickled cucumbers

Tomato dashi

1 x 5.5kg Scottish Salmon from Loch Du art

100ml low-salt soy sauce 100ml mirin 1 pinch of Kimchi spice mixture 50ml rice vinegar 4 untreated baby cucumbers

For the stock

Wash, fillet and debone the salmon in preparation for cooking. Separate the skin from the remainder of the fish. Remove any remaining fat and cut the fillet lengthwise in half. Store the dorsal portion of the fish in the refrigerator for further use.

For the marinade 200g salt 100g brown sugar for sprinkling Mix the two ingredients together and marinade the salmon for 25 minutes. Then wash and pat it down to dry it with a paper towel. Cold smoke the salmon for 2 minutes. Then vacuum seal it to a level of 40 % and slow-cook it for 10 minutes at 40 ·c in a bain-marie. Cool it down in ice water for 30 min­ utes. Remove the salmon from the vacuum pouch and brown it.

Mix the soy sauce, mirin, kimchi spice mixture and rice vinegar. Slice 2 baby cucumbers into 8 mm slices. Slice the remaining cucumbers into thin slices. Put them in separate vacuum pouches and vacuum-seal them with the stock.

400g ripe, red tomatoes 400g ripe green zebra tomatoes 50g light miso paste 5g basil 5g coriander 3g tarragon Puree all the ingredients in the Thermomix and then hang the out in a cloth strainer. Collect the liquid.

To flavour the tomato dashi 250g tomato water (see above) 6 g edamame, dried 3g shiitake mushrooms, dried 1g ginger, dried 0.25g garlic, dried 0.2g xanthan gum 20ml coriander oil (see page 348) 10ml miso oil (see page 348)

Sauce for searing 100ml low-salt soy sauce 50ml mirin Mix both ingredients and pour over the cooked salmon until completely moist. Then sear with a culinary torch in order to lightly caramelise the mixture. Refrigerate the salmon and before serving. Portion out into 24 slices, each 7 mm thick.

Heat all the ingredients to 80 ·c except the xanthan gum, the coriander and the miso oil. Then cover and let stand for 1 hour. Strain and bind with the xanthan gum. Mix the coriander oil and the miso oil into a fine-beaded mixture.

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DISH I

LOCH DUART SALMON [THE BELLY] OYSTER I KUMQUAT I CUCUMBER

Salmon belly

Kumquat zests

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For the marinade

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Sauce for searing

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250g untreated Kumquats 50ml orange juice 20ml rice vinegar 10 ml white soy sauce 30ml mandarin vinegar Make zest out of the kumquat peel and blanche it until it is al dente. Bring the orange juice, the soy sauce and the mandarin vinegar to the boil and pour over the blanched kumquat zest.

10 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) Open the oysters and separate them from the muscle. Collect the oyster water and strain. Poach the oysters at 42 ·c for 1 minute in the oyster water. Then debeard and slice the oysters into 3 medallions.

Kimizu

75 ml mirin 64 ml mizkan vinegar 180g egg yolk Salt, sugar

Tomato dashi -

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For the stock

Thicken the ingredients at 80 ·c in the Thermomix. Pass through a fine strainer and season to taste with salt and sugar.

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Tomato dashi flavouring

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Citrus gel

15 g calamansi puree 60g bergamot puree 45 ml fresh yuzu juice 180ml water 30g sugar 4.2 g agar-agar 4.2 g gel Ian gum 1.8 g cassava Bring all ingredients to the boil and allow a gel to form. Then use the Thermomix to beat the mixture into a smooth gel.

Cucumber gel

350ml cucumber juice (whole, washed, untreated cucumbers, mixed and strained) 20ml rice vinegar 4 g gel Ian gum 4 g agar-agar Salt, pepper, sugar Bring all ingredients to the boil and allow a gel to form. When cold, beat mixture into a smooth gel in the Thermomix.

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Oyster cream

Hijiki seaweed

Wakame chips

1 shallot cut into brunoise 2 tbsp vegetable oil 30ml white wine 75ml dashi 3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 90g creme fraiche 10g chives 10g coriander 1 stalk of parsley Agar-agar Gellan gum

20g dry hijiki 65ml low-salt soy sauce 50ml mirin 125ml rice vinegar 40g sugar 25 ml water

200g starchy potatoes, boiled 200ml water for boiling potatoes 20g plucked parsley 20g plucked chervil 1g wakame seaweed powder

Saute the shallot until it is translucent, then add white wine and dashi and reduce. Add the oysters and the oyster water and bring to the boil. Then immediately mix it with the creme fraTche, chives, coriander and parsley in the Thermomix. Pass through a conical strainer. Add 1 g of agar-agar and 1 g gel Ian gum per 100 ml of the mixture. Bring the liquid to the boil again with the agar-agar and gellan gum and then let it form a gel. When cold, process the mixture into a smooth gel in the Thermomix.

Pickled cucumbers

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Mini cucumber rolls 1 untreated cucumber 75ml dashi (see page 347) 25ml bonito vinegar 25ml white soy sauce Slice the cucumber into 2 mm slices and then cut into 1.5 x 10cm strips. Mix the remaining ingredi­ ents. Then vacuum-seal the cucumber strips with the stock.

Blanch the hijiki seaweed in water until it is al dente and then drain. Bring the soy sauce, the mirin, the rice vinegar, the sugar and the water to the boil and pour over the hijiki seaweed.

Mix all the ingredients in the Thermomix at 70 ·c until they are smooth. Pass through a conical strainer. Spread the mixture thinly on a silicon mat and dry in the dehydrator for 12 hours. Then break into pieces of the required size.

Cucumber ice cream

Garnish

25g simple syrup 25g Sosa ProSorbet 450ml cucumber juice 135g glucose powder 20ml rice vinegar 25g passion fruit pulp 5ml champagne vinegar 5ml gin Salt, pepper, sugar 2 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed

16 tips of passe-pierre seaweed 16 salty fingers 8 soy sprouts 1 pack daikon cress 8 cucumber flowers 8 cornabria blossoms

Mix the simple syrup with the ProSorbet. With the exception of the gelatine, heat all the in­ gredients to 45 ·c. Then add the sugar and the ice mixtures. Heat them to 86•c. Finally, dissolve in the gelatine and leave the mixture to cool in the refrig­ erator for at least 3 hours. Stir whilst still cold and put in the Pacojet container Pacotize as required.

Oyster pearls 100g oyster meat 100ml oyster water 125g sour cream 1 sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed

TO SERVE

Place the poached oysters in the middle of the plate. Arrange the slices of salmon belly on them and garnish with the cucumber kimchi. Then place the pickled cucumber slices and a cucumber roll on the plate. Place dabs of citrus gel, cucumber gel, oyster cream and kimizu on the plate and garnish with hijiki seaweed, passe-pierre tips, salty fingers, soy sprouts, kumquat zest, daikon cress and the blossoms. Pour on the tomato dashi and then place a scoop of cucumber ice cream on the plate. Sprinkle on the oyster pearls. Finally, place a wakame chip on top.

Beat the oysters, oyster water and sour cream in the Thermomix at 50·c to a fine puree. Strain and dissolve the gelatine in the mixture. Using a spray bottle, trickle the oyster mixture into liquid nitrogen in order to make the pearls. Then with a skimmer carefully remove the pearls, place them on a plate and freeze until needed.

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DISH II

GOOSE LIVER FROM LANDES ARABICA COFFEE PIEDMONT HAZELNUT SOUR CHERRY

Cherry gel Coffee gel Foie gras terrine Goose liver ice cream Piedmont hazelnuts

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DISH 11

GOOSE LIVER FROM LANDES ARABICA COFFEE I PIEDMONT HAZELNUT I SOUR CHERRY

8 goose liver balls

Goose liver ice cream

250 g foie gras terrine (see page 349) 8 caramelised, whole Piedmont hazelnuts (see page 271) dusted with gold powder.

375 ml white port 190 g foie gras terrine (see page 349) 190 g raw goose livers 75 g glucose syrup at 45' 120 ml sweet wine (Jurani;:on) 60 g egg yolk

Cut 8 x 20g cubes from the inside of the foie gras terrine. Important: Only use whole cubes, don't stick the side pieces together as otherwise the structure of the liver will become too soft. Press a caramelised hazelnut into each cube, roll into a smooth ball and refrigerate for 4 hours. As soon as the goose liver balls are cold, stick a toothpick into each ball.

Reduce the port to 150 ml. Then mix all the ingre­ dients except the egg yolk in the Thermomix at 80 ·c. Thicken with the egg yolk. Put two-thirds of the mixture in Pacojet container and freeze for 24 hours for later use. Pacotize as required. Use the remaining third for the goose liver pearls (see below).

Coffee jelly 225 ml strong coffee 90 ml coffee syrup (Monin) 10 g vegetable gelatine Reduce the coffee and coffee syrup together to 250 ml and bind them with vegetarian gelatine. Then strain the mixture. Dip the goose liver balls in the coffee gel and then refrigerate (once you have coated them with gel, do not remove the tooth­ picks).

Goose liver pearls 1 sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed ½ goose liver ice cream (see above) Dissolve the gelatine in the goose liver ice cream mixture that should still be warm. Using a spray bottle, trickle it into the liquid nitrogen in order to produce the pearls. Then with a skimmer careful­ ly remove the pearls, place them on a plate and freeze until needed.

Cherry gel 200 g sour cherry puree 2 g agar-agar 2g gellan gum Bring the sour cream puree to the boil, bind with agar-agar and gellan gum, and leave to cool in a suitable container. Then use the Thermomix to beat the puree into a smooth gel.

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Coffee and sugar chip 25 ml water 50 g sugar 12.5 g isomalt 38 ml glucose syrup at 45• 5 g instant coffee (Nescafe) 20 g butter Heat the water, sugar, isomalt and glucose syrup to 155 ·c. Remove the mixture from the oven, and then stir in the instant coffee until smooth. Pour onto a Silpat mat and leave to cool. As soon as the sugar mixture is cold, break it up and use the Ther­ momix to pulverise it. Then sift a thin layer onto the Silpat mat, melt at 180 ·c and then allow to cool again. Store in an airtight, dry location. Break into pieces in the required size when needed.

TO SERVE

Arrange a circle of chopped, caramelised hazelnuts in the upper left-hand corner of the plate. Place a dab of sour cherry gel in the centre of the caramel­ ised hazelnuts and a dash in the lower right-hand corner. Place a goose liver ball on top. Remove the toothpick and garnish with cherry gel, half a cara­ melised hazelnut, a sugared coffee chip and a leaf of honey cress. Then scatter the goose liver pearls around the liver ball and place a scoop of goose liver ice cream on the strip of gel in the lower right­ hand corner. Season the ice cream with Maldon salt and then adorn with half a caramelised hazelnut. Serve a slice of toasted brioche on the side.

Garnish 80 g chopped caramelised Piedmont hazelnuts (see page 349) 16 halved, caramelised Piedmont hazelnuts. (see page 349) 16 tips honey cress Maldon salt Toasted brioche

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DISH 111

SCALLOPS PUMPKIN CHICKEN WHITE TRUFFLE

Alba white truffle Baby mushrooms Beech mushrooms Butternut squash Chickenjus Chicken wings Enoki mushrooms Hokkaido pumpkin Pumpkin puree Pumpkin seed crunch Pumpkin seed pesto Scallops Truffle foam

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DISH 111

SCALLOPS PUMPKIN I CHICKEN I WHITE TRUFFLE

Pumpkin puree 8 live scallops (size 3-4) Break the scallops out of their shells, wash them thoroughly and soak them in cold water for 30 min­ utes. Remove the beard and then soak them again for 2 hours. Cover, and refrigerate on dry kitchen towels.

Chicken 16 chicken wings Salt, pepper 1 carrot 1 stalk of celery 500ml vegetable oil Season the chicken wings with salt and pepper. Clean the carrots and celery. Chop them into hazelnut-sized cubes and then vacuum-seal them with the chicken wings and the oil. Cook in a bain-marie at 85·c for 2 hours. Then separate the wings at the joint and remove the central section from the bone. Refrigerate until you are ready to serve.

500g butternut squash 100g nut butter 50g brown sugar for sprinkling Salt, pepper 1 sprig of thyme Peel the squash, remove the seeds and place it in a deep baking tray. Coat it with the nut butter. Sprinkle brown sugar on it and season it with salt and pepper. Then pluck the thyme leaves and sprinkle them over the squash. Cover the tray with aluminium foil and allow the pumpkin stew in the oven at 160 ·c for 45 minutes. Pass the pumpkin through a strainer and use the Thermomix to process it into a smooth puree.

Pumpkin seed pesto 100g pumpkin seeds 20g water 20g sugar 20ml pumpkin seed oil Toast the pumpkin seeds in an ungreased Teflon pan. Meanwhile boil water and sugar at 112 •c and add the pumpkin seeds. Simmer until the sugar has caramelised. Then put the pumpkin seeds in the Thermomix and process them with the pumpkin oil mix until they are finely ground. Put the mixture in a Pacojet container and put it in the freezer for at least 6 hours. Pacotize three times until needed.

MENU V

Pickled squash

Truffle foam

Chickenjus

1 butternut squash (1 kg) 100ml water 100 ml Melfor vinegar 100 g sugar

100 g peeled shallots 100 g white mushrooms 100 g white part of leek 30 g butter Salt, pepper 150 ml white port 75 ml Noilly Prat 400 ml chicken stock (see page 345) 200 ml cream 12 g white truffles (use the offcuts) 1 tsp white truffle oil (top quality) Nutmeg

200 ml chicken jus (see page 345) 25 g cold butter Salt, pepper

Peel the pumpkin and use a cold-cut slicing ma­ chine to cut 2 mm slices. Cut the slices into 16 7.5 x 2.2 cm strips. Out of the remaining squash, cut out 16 circles with a 3 cm diameter and 16 wafers, of 1.5 cm diameter each. Bring the water, vinegar and sugar to the boil and pour over the pumpkin strips and the wafers. Then cover it and let it stand for 24 hours.

Pumpkin seed crunch 100 g pumpkin seeds 2 sheets of brick dough 50 g egg white Icing sugar Salt Cut the pumpkin seeds into fine splinters. Then cut 3 cm diameter rings out of the brick dough and coat them with egg white. Scatter the pumpkin seed strips over it and dust them with icing sugar. Spread out onto a baking tray covered with baking paper. Place another sheet of baking paper on top and weigh it down with another tray. Bake in the oven for 8 minutes at 180 ·c until golden-yellow. Then lightly salt the chips.

Chop the shallots, the white part of the leeks and the mushrooms into small pieces. Saute the mix­ ture in foaming butter and then season it with salt and pepper. Add white wine and Noilly Prat and re­ duce. Pour in chicken stock and reduce by a third. Add the cream and bring once to the boil. Clean the truffles, peel gently and chop finely. Set the more attractive part of the truffle aside for garnish. Then add the finely-chopped truffle and the truffle oil to the cream mixture. Place it on the edge of the stove for 30 minutes on moderate heat. Mix it thoroughly with a hand-held blender. Strain and season to taste with nutmeg.

Beech mushrooms 20 small white beech mushrooms 20 small brown beech mushrooms ½ clove of garlic 15 g parsley 2 tbsp vegetable oil Salt, pepper Butter

Reduce the chicken jus by half and add the cold butter shortly before serving. Season with salt and pepper if necessary.

Garnish 48 enoki mushroom caps 24 roasted pumpkin seeds 24 slices of finely grated, raw baby mushrooms 35 g finely-grated Alba truffle (see left) 16 leaves of tiny red-veined dock 8 cooked Hokkaido pumpkin sections 8 heads of affilla cress

TO SERVE

Season the scallops with salt and pepper and saute for 2 minutes on both sides in a Teflon pan until they are translucent. Fry the chicken wings on the skin side until crispen and place on a warmed plate with a scallop. Place dabs of pumpkin puree on the plate and garnish the plate with the remaining components. Finally, coat with the truffle foam and chicken jus.

Clean the beech mushrooms. Finely chop the parsley and garlic. Fry off the mushrooms in oil and season with salt and pepper. Finally, add a little butter, garlic and parsley.

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MENU V

DISH IV

SEA BASS [IKEJIME] BARBECUED EEL AUBERGINE KOJYU VINAIGRETTE

Aubergine Aubergine foam Aubergine puree Barbecued eel Cucumbers Kojyu vinaigrette Okra pods Pearl onions Sea bass Shiso pesto Spring onion

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BAU.STEINE DISH IV

An update of a Bau classic, an out and out signature dish. At the heart of this dish is the barbecued eel, as perfected in the re­ nowned Unagi restaurants in Tokyo: Bar­ becued over glowing charcoals and glazed with a strong Teriyaki sauce. With its salty soy glaze, its smoky aniseed scent, its caramel and honeyed sweetness, the eel sets off the Breton sea bass, and provides a contrast to the mild, crisply baked fish with its juicy, tender white meat. Chris­ tian Bau adds a true Umami bomb to this: A kojyu vinaigrette, scented with charred leeks, soy sauce, mirin and mizkan vinegar. Tapioca pearls provide the bite and cohe­ sion. Chives give the onion freshness to this baroque dish.

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Sea bass

Barbecued eel

Kojyu vinaigrette

1 sea bass ( 3.1-3.3 kg) (lkejime slaughtered)

1 smoked eel (around 400g) 1 tbsp transglutaminase

Note: 1 fish of this size provides 14-16 well-sized portions.

Skin the eel, remove bones and separate the meat from the fat and oil. Then powder the bony side with transglutaminase and >glue< it back into its original form. Roll tightly in clingfilm and refriger­ ate the eel for 3 hours. Then cut it into 1cm slices. When ready to serve, lay the pieces of eel on a grate and glaze with the teriyaki glaze (see below). Place the eel on a grate over glowing charcoals and allow it to caramelise gently.

1 shallot, finely chopped 50g white part of leek, finely chopped 100ml Japanese leek oil 50ml mirin 50ml mizkan vinegar 50ml white soy sauce 1 pinch of xanthan gum 10g tapioca pearls 10g chives, finely chopped

Vegetable oil 50g butter 1 sprig of thyme 1 sprig of rosemary Salt, pepper Scale, clean, fillet and debone the fish. Cut the kitchen-ready fillets into 70g portions and slice away the skin. Before serving, fry the fish in a bit of oil to make the skin crispy. Then turn over the fish and flavour it with foamed butter, thyme, rosemary, salt and pepper. The fish should have a core tem­ perature of 42-43 ·c.

Miso paste for searing 8 5g light miso paste 17g honey 17ml mirin 8.5g salt Mix all the ingredients and refrigerate. Stir up again before use. After cooking, coat the fish on the filet side and caramelise the paste with the culinary torch.

Teriyaki glaze 25ml mirin 25ml sake 200ml chicken stock (see page 3 45) 175 ml low-salt soy sauce 50g sugar 1 star anise 15g cornstarch 2 tbsp honey

Lightly saute the shallots and the leek in 25ml leek oil until colourless. Then add mirin, vinegar and white soy sauce. Vacuum-seal and let it stand for 48 hours. Then strain and bind it with the xanthan gum in order to make the base. Combine the base with the remaining leek oil at a ratio of 2:1 ( 2 parts liquid, 1 part leek oil) to be able to use it as a vinai­ grette. Finally, boil the tapioca pearls until they are translucent and then, with the chives, stir then into the vinaigrette.

Reduce the mirin and sake by half. Fill with chicken stock and soy sauce and then reduce again by a third. Add the sugar and star anise and let it stand for 3 0 minutes. Then strain and bind it with starch. Finally, season to taste with honey.

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DISH IV

SEA BASS [IKEJIME] BARBECUED EEL I AUBERGINE

KOJYU VINAIGRETTE

Sea bass

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Aubergine mixture

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Misc paste for searing

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Barbecued eel

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Teriyaki glaze

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Pickled aubergine 1 eggplant 150 ml dashi (see page 347) 60 ml Shiro dashi 20 ml rice vinegar 35 ml olive oil 17ml mirin 5 ml lime juice Cut the aubergines into 12 cm long slices that are each 7x7 mm thick. Mix the remaining ingredients into a marinade and then vacuum-seal them with the aubergine strips. Steam the vacuumed-sealed aubergines at 90 ·c for 11 minutes. Let the vacuum pouch stand on ice for 24 hours.

8 aubergines 8 tbsp olive oil Salt, pepper, sugar 8 thyme sprigs 8 rosemary sprigs Cut the aubergines in half lengthwise and make diagonal cuts into them. Moisten them with olive oil. Season with salt, pepper and sugar, and sprinkle thyme and rosemary sprigs on every other half aubergine. Then close up the aubergines and wrap them in aluminium foil. Cook the aubergines at 250 ·c for 35 minutes. Then scrape the flesh out of the aubergines and remove the seeds. Use a cloth sieve to drain the liquid. Then use the Thermomix to process it well.

Miso reduction 50 g shallots, chopped small 1 clove of garlic, crushed 50 mushrooms, finely chopped 100 g misc paste 70 m I sherry vinegar 200 ml veal jus (see page 344) 1 small sprig of thyme 1 small sprig of rosemary Saute the shallots, garlic and mushrooms. Then, add the misc paste and brown lightly. Add sherry vinegar and reduce. Then fill it up with the veal jus, a little thyme and rosemary and let it simmer down to about a half. Lastly, pass through a fine conical sieve.

Aubergine puree Aubergine mixture (see above) Misc reduction (see above) Salt, pepper, sugar 1 pinch of xanthan gum Season the aubergine mixture to taste with the misc reduction, salt, pepper and sugar, and bind lightly with xanthan gum. Then reduce in a pot to a third of the weight until the puree is no longer runny.

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Aubergine foam

Okra tempura

Shiso pesto

200 g Aubergine puree (see left) 4 ml lemon juice 5 g mustard 2 eggs 120 ml grape seed oil 40 ml miso oil (see page 348) Salt, pepper, sugar 1 pinch of cumin

125 g flour 250 ml warm water 7 g yeast Salt 100 g okra pods Vegetable oil

20 green shiso leaves 10 coriander leaves 5 mint leaves 2 basil leaves 2 tbsp white soy sauce 2 tbsp rice vinegar for sushi 1 tbsp almond semolina 2 tbsp grape seed oil Salt, sugar

Work the aubergine puree into a foam as described under Vegetable Foam on page 349 and season to taste with cumin.

Pearl onions 10 small pearl onions 50 ml water 50 ml white balsamic vinegar 50 g sugar 2 g salt Peel the pearl onions. Bring the remaining ingredients to the boil and pour over peeled onions. Let them stand for 12 hours. Then cut the pearl onions lengthwise in half and sear them with a culinary torch. Remove the skins from the pearl onions, without damaging the seared side. Select the most attractive pearl onions skins.

Mix the flour, water, yeast and 1 pinch of salt into a dough. Let it sit for about 1 hour. Then cut the okra into 1 cm slices and remove the seeds. Then dust them lightly with flour. Coat them with the tempura dough and pre-bake them at 160 •c in oil until they have a golden-yellow hue. Before serving, bake the okra at 160 'C in order for the tempura to become crisp. Salt whilst still hot.

Kojyu vinaigrette Spring onion 8 fine spring leeks (preferably Thai baby leek) 1 tbsp vegetable oil Salt, sugar 50 ml chicken stock (see page 345) 20 g butter Cut the leek into 12 cm slices. Clean and wash them. Saute with a little oil in pan. Season with salt and pepper and then add some chicken stock. Cover and steam the leek until it is soft. Lastly, glaze with butter.

Red onion 1 red onion Salt, sugar 30 ml red wine vinegar Cut the red onions in half and cut a layer of the onion into 2 mm strips. Season with salt and sugar. Vacuum-seal the onion strips with the red wine vinegar and let them stand for about 12 hours.

Mix all the ingredients except the almond semolina in the mixer and then grind them into a pesto using a mortar. Add the grape seed oil and season to taste with salt and sugar.

Cucumber spirals 1 cucumber Shiso pesto (see right) Cut the cucumber into 10 cm long by 3 x 3 mm strips, blanch rapidly in salted water and then roll them up. Fill the rolls with shiso pesto.

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Garnish 8 nasturtium leaves

TO SERVE

Cut out the lightly warmed aubergine strips with a cutter and form into a ring. Place on warmed plate. Then place a slice of barbecued eel on the plate. Place dabs of aubergine puree on the plate. Put the cucumber spirals and the seared pearl onion skins next to them. Place the fish in the middle, the leeks across the top and the okra tempura on the fish. Fill the aubergine ring with aubergine foam and gar­ nish with red onions and nasturtium leaves. Lastly, dress with kojyu vinaigrette.

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DISH V

VENDEE GUINEA FOWL RAZOR CLAMS SMALL ARTICHOKES PRESERVED LEMONS

Artichoke chips Artichoke puree Baby artichokes Guinea fowl breast Guinea fowl jus Herb salad Preserved lemon Razor clam salad Razor clam sauce Razor clams

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BAU.STEINE DISH V

Bau's golden rule: Poultry needs to be roasted on the bone! Unless ... a brilliant colleague convinces him otherwise, as was the case with the modest and likeable Alex­ andre Couillon from the lie de Noirmout­ ier, just off the Atlantic coast of France. Then Christian Bau can be persuaded to cook the outstanding guinea fowl from the Vendee at 48 °C in a bain-marie and then to crispen it up in the pan. With outstand­ ing results: in the middle, the breasts end up being juicy and rosy, the skin is crispy, and the whole thing is beautifully flavoured with a foaming thyme butter. It is com­ plemented with razor clams, nutty and with an iodine mineral flavour, and with the herby citrus flavours of the shiso vin­ aigrette, with its fine cubes of preserved lemon and a heavenly, clear jus from a guinea fowl drumstick. A light and aromat­ ic main course!

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Guinea fowl breasts Guinea fowl jus

Razor clam salad

Guinea fowl

Guinea fowl jus

Razor clams

2 x 2.3-2.4 kg guinea fowl (with head and claws)

100 g shallots 100 g mushrooms 100 g celery 50 g butter 1 tbsp peppercorns, salt 2 fresh bay leaves 4 guinea fowl legs, trimmed and with bones and skin removed Pieces of cleaned guinea fowl (see below) 50 ml madeira 50 ml Noilly Prat 200ml port 750 ml chicken jus (see page 345) Xanthan gum

1 kg razor clams (live, XU 75 ml olive oil 2 parsley stalks

Remove the head and claws from the guinea fowls. The birds should have been already hung for a good amount of time. Separate the breasts and legs and trim them to make them ready for cooking. Remove any giblets and imperfections from the carcass and chop them up into hazelnut-sized pieces for the gravy.

Guinea fowl breasts 4 guinea fowl breasts (see above) Salt, pepper 250 g salted butter 2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 tbsp butter 1 small sprig of thyme 1 small sprig of rosemary Season the prepared guinea fowl breasts with salt and pepper and coat them with wafer-thin (1 mm) slivers of butter. Shape the breasts and wrap tightly with clingfilm. Then vacuum-seal and cook at 60"C for 25 minutes in a bain-marie. The guinea fowl should have a core temperature of 50-52 •c. Then plunge the vacuum pouch with the guinea fowl directly into cold water with ice-cubes. To prepare, put the vacuumed breasts for 1 more hour in the bain-marie at 48 ·c. Then, when the core temperature reaches 48 ·c, take the breast out of the vacuum pouch, season it with salt and pepper, and crispen the skin in oil. Then baste it in the foamy thyme and rosemary butter.

Cut the vegetables to make a mirepoix and saute them lightly in butter. Then add seasoning, add the diced guinea fowl drumsticks and the remainder of the bird and cook until all the liquid has evaporat­ ed. Then add the madeira, Noilly Prat and port and reduce again. Then fill with poultry jus and simmer down by a third. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve, season to taste and bind lightly with xanthan gum.

Soak the razor clams, then vacuum-seal with olive oil and parsley and cook at 72 'C for 3 hours 20 minutes in a bain-marie. Then cool down in icy wa­ ter. Place the clams in a colander. Collect the clam juice and set aside. Then take out the clam meat from the shells and cut diagonally into slices.

Razor clam salad 250 g sliced razor clams (see above) 100 ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) 1 tsp finely diced preserved lemon 1 tbsp fine chive roll Salt, pepper Mix all ingredients together and bring slowly to 50 •c in a pot. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

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DISH V

VENDEE GUINEA FOWL RAZOR CLAMS I SMALL ARTICHOKES I PRESERVED LEMONS

Guinea fowl

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Guinea fowl breasts

Guinea fowl jus

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Razor clams

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Razor clam salad

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Clam foam 2 shallots 200g butter 100ml Noilly Prat 100 ml white wine Clam stock collected from razor clams (see page 225) 300ml dashi (see page 347) Salt, cayenne pepper Dice the shallots. Then saute them in 20g butter until they become translucent and add Noilly Prat and white wine; then boil down to about 100 ml. Add clam stock and dashi and then boil down again to about 200 ml. Then strain and work in the remaining small pieces of butter with a hand-held blender. Season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper.

Baby artichokes 800g tomatoes 100 g miso paste 10g tarragon Salt, pepper 8 baby artichokes Juice from 3 limes, mixed with 750ml water 50g finely diced shallots 50g diced mushrooms 2 tbsp vegetable oil 70ml white wine 50ml Noilly Prat sugar 10g basil 10g thyme 50g butter Mix the tomatoes, miso paste, tarragon and some salt and pepper in a Thermomix until the mixture is finely mixed. Then leave to strain in a cloth strainer over night. Store the liquid collected. Then clean and turn the artichokes and store in lime water. Saute the shallots and mushrooms in a pot until they become translucent. Add the artichokes, wine and Noilly Prat. Reduce, fill up with tomato water and then bring to the boil. Add salt, pepper, sugar, basil and thyme. Let it stand for about 10 minutes. Then take the artichokes out of the stock. Separate and leave to cool. Boil down a third of the stock into a syrup. Quarter the arti­ chokes and glaze and season to taste in a pan with the stock reduction and butter.

Artichoke chips 2 artichokes Juice of 1 lime, mixed with water Vegetable oil for deep-frying Salt Clean the artichokes and store them in lime water. Heat the oil to 140·c. Cut off fine slices of artichokes with a vegetable slicer and then blanch them immediately in boiling salted water. Then cool them briefly in iced-water and then dry them off. Then deep-fry in the oil until they become golden-yellow. Season with salt and keep warm.

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Artichoke puree 6 large artichokes Juice from 3 limes, mixed with 750ml water 100 g finely diced shallots 100 g diced mushrooms 2 tbsp vegetable oil 50ml white wine 30ml Neilly Prat 300 ml reduced artichoke stock (see left) 50ml cream 30g creme fraiche Salt, pepper, sugar Clean the artichokes and store them in lime water. Saute the shallots and mushrooms briefly until they are translucent. Dice and add the artichokes. Then add white wine and Neilly Prat. Reduce the mixture and then fill it up with stock and cream. Cook the artichokes until they become soft. Then mix in Thermomix until they are finely mixed. Season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar and pass through a fine sieve.

TO SERVE

16 thin (3 cm) strips of preserved lemon Warm the razor clams slightly and place them evenly on the left side of a warmed plate. Arrange the warm artichoke puree and the glazed baby artichokes on the right-hand side of the plate. Cut the crisped guinea fowl breast lengthwise in half and place it in the centre of plate. Warm the razor clam mousse and froth it up with a hand-held blender. Pour the foam onto the razor clams. Put the marinated herb salad in small piles on top of the guinea fowl breast and garnish each breast with 4 preserved lemon strips and four artichoke chips. Pour on the hot guinea fowl jus.

Herb salad ½ head of fine green frisee lettuce 1 tbsp parsley tips 1 tbsp chervil tips 1 tsp dill tips 1 tsp fine coriander leaves 10 tarragon tips ½ pack daikon cress ½ pack of red shiso cress 4 leaves of radicchio 50ml shiso vinaigrette (see page 348) Mix the tips of the frisee lettuce with the herbs and the cress. Cut the radicchio lettuce into fine strips and add it to the mixture. Marinate everything in the vinaigrette and season to taste.

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DISH VI

FLAT IRON STEAK CORN STRUCTURES BLACK GARLIC 0 NION

Baby corns Beef sauce Black garlic paste Corn cobs Corn foam Corn Malto Flat iron steak Onion crumble Onion puree Polenta Ponzu gel Short ribs Small pearl onions

DISH VI

FLAT IRON STEAK

CORN STRUCTURES I BLACK GARLIC I ONION

Short ribs

Flat iron steak

2 L water 200 g seasoning salt 1 garlic bulb 1 sprig of thyme 1 sprig of rosemary 1 US, boneless short ribs (900-1000g)

1 Wagyu flat iron steak, 1.5-1.8 kg Odeally from Blackmore, Australia) Salt, pepper

Stir water, seasoning and flavouring together with no heat and marinate the meat for 12 hours. Rinse off with cold water and then dry. Vacuum-seal and cook at 72 ·c in a bain-marie for 28 hours. Cool down in icy water. Cut the meat into 2.4cm cubes and then vacuum-seal. Before serving, warm up ° for 12 minutes at 57 C in a bain-ma­ rie. Then fry briefly on all sides.

Barbecue glaze 1.5g white peppercorns 2.5g coriander seeds 1 g aniseed 0.5g cloves 1 g Szechuan pepper 5g Madras curry 2. 5g sweet paprika powder 1.5g ground caraway 40 ml red wine vinegar 100ml soy sauce 200g honey 6 tbsp chive rolls Grind all the spices in a mortar and then gently heat them in a pot over a very low flame. Add red wine vinegar and reduce until almost all the liquid has disappeared. Add the soy sauce and simmer gently for 25 minutes. Then add the honey and simmer for a further 30 minutes until a light­ ly-bound glaze has formed. Then pass the mixture through a very fine sieve and keep warm. Before serving, coat the shoulder pieces (see right) and short rib cubes with the warm barbe­ cue glaze. Sprinkle the flat iron pieces with chives and cut into 4 portions.

sieve, bind gently with xanthan gum and season to taste with salt, pepper and sherry vinegar.

Corn foam Trim the steak and remove the silver skin. Then remove the sinews that divide the upper and lower halves of the meat. The result should be 2 pieces of flat iron steak, both weighing 600-700 g. Season with salt and pepper and brown on all sides. Then 70% vacuum-seal each piece separately. Cook at 58 •c for 2 hours in a bain-marie. Adjust the cooking time to the thickness of the pieces. Then take the meat out of the pouch and let it sit in the Hold-o-mat for 20 minutes at 64 ·c. After the meat has been allowed to stand, grill it for a short amount of time on glowing charcoals On the Big Green Egg), so that a light crust appears (core tem­ perature 55 "C).

Beef sauce 50g each of carrots, shallots, celery, and mushrooms Butter 500g steak 1 tbsp white peppercorns 1 sprig of thyme 1 sprig of rosemary 5 crushed cloves of garlic 400 ml red wine (Cote du Rhone) 100ml red port 100ml madeira 500 ml veal jus (see page 344) Xanthan gum Salt, pepper 1 tbsp sherry vinegar XO Cut the vegetables into hazel­ nut-sized pieces and then brown them in a pot with a little butter. Cut the meat into pieces. Add it to the vegetables and brown. Add seasoning, herbs and garlic and brown. Then add the alcohol and reduce to a third. Then fill up with the veal jus and simmer on a very low flame for about 3 hours. Lastly pass through a conical

50g each shallots, mushrooms, bacon 1 tbsp maize germ oil 500g boiled corn 250ml chicken stock (see page 345) 100ml cream 1 sprig of thyme 2 bay leaves Salt, sugar 2 eggs 6 g mustard 4ml lemon juice 120 ml grape seed oil 40 ml miso oil (see page 348) Pepper Slice shallots, mushrooms and bacon into hazelnut-sized cubes and saute in oil until they are translucent. Add the corn, chicken stock and cream. Add thyme and bay leaves and lightly season with salt and sugar. Cover the pot with a sheet of baking paper and boil the contents for about 2 hours until they are soft. Then strain. Put the corn in a Pacojet container and place the container in the freezer for at least 12 hours. Then Pacotize at least eight times in order to pro­ duce a fine corn puree. Weigh off 200g of the resulting puree and then mix with eggs, mustard and lemon juice in the Thermomix until they become fine. Pour in a thin stream of oil. Season to taste with salt, sugar and pepper and pass through a fine strainer. Put the mixture into an iSi-Siphon and load with 2 gas cap­ sules. Store at 65 •c in a bain-marie until needed.

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Baby corn 8 Baby corn cobs (7 cm) Salt, sugar Butter for blanching 30g butter Blanch the corn in well-salted and slightly-sugared water with a little butter until al dente. Then shock in iced water and caramelise gently in a pan with the butter and a little sugar. Lastly, cut the corn cobs in halves.

Corn 1 fresh corn cob 30 g butter Salt, sugar Vacuum-seal the corn cob with 15g butter, salt and a little sugar. Then steam in the oven at 80 'C for 25 minutes. Shock in iced water. Cut off the corn from the cob and trim into 8 2.5cm squares. Spread each square with butter. Season with salt and sugar and then heat in oven at 200 'C for 3 minutes. Put the corn squares on the polenta cubes (see right).

minutes on a very low flame until the mixture separates from the bottom of the pot. Next spread out the polenta in a 3cm layer on a mould covered with baking paper and allow to cool thoroughly. Cut into 2.5cm square cubes, dust with flour and then brown on all sides in the remaining oil until they become golden-brown.

Ponzu gel 250ml chanponzu 125ml water 40g sugar 3g agar-agar 3g gel Ian gum 1.5g cassava

Cut the shallots and mushrooms into hazelnut-sized cubes. Saute in a pot in 2 tbsp of oil until they become colourless. Then add chicken stock and cream. Add thyme and rosemary and reduce to 500 ml. Then strain and season to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Bring the liquid to the boil, stir in the polenta and soak for 30-35

Corn Malto

1 white onion 100g flour 1 pinch of paprika powder 500ml vegetable oil 60 g chopped almonds Salt, sugar, cinnamon

20g dried corn Skin of 2 chicken breasts, dried and finely chopped 20g cornflakes 10g Malto 15ml maize germ oil Salt, icing sugar

Peel onions and slice into thin rings. Mix the flour and paprika powder, cover the onion rings with the mixture and then deep fry at 160 ·c. Imme­ diately salt the onion rings and add a little sugar. Then roast the chopped almonds in the oven at 200 'C. Chop the deep-fried onion rings finely, mix with the almonds and season to taste salt, sugar and a pinch of cinnamon.

Chop the dried corn, chicken skin and cornflakes finely. Mix the Malto with the maize germ oil and then mix with the chopped mixture. Season to taste with salt and icing sugar. Store at 63 ·c in Hold-o-mat until ready to use.

Garnish Mix the ingredients, bring to the boil and allow a gel to form. Then use the Thermomix to work the cooled mixture into a smooth gel.

Onion puree 300g white onions Salt, sugar 30g creme fraiche 1 pinch of xanthan gum Cayenne pepper

Polenta 100g each of shallots and mushrooms 4 tbsp vegetable oil 600ml chicken stock (see page 345) 300ml cream 2 thyme sprigs 2 rosemary sprigs Salt, pepper, nutmeg 100g polenta meal 50g flour 2 tbsp vegetable oil for browning

Onion crumble

Peel the onions and cut into 5mm strips. Season with salt and sugar and let stand for 20 minutes. Simmer the dehydrated onions in the resulting liquid in a pot until they become soft and then cover them with perforated baking paper. Then drain the onions and mix them in the Thermomix with creme fraiche and xanthan gum until the mixture is fine. Then pass through a fine sieve and reduce in a pot until firm. Then put them in the Thermomix again and mix them until they are fine. Finally, season to taste with salt, cay­ enne pepper and sugar and pass once more through a fine strainer.

Caramelised onions 8 white pearl onions 10g butter 10g sugar 10ml old balsamic vinegar Salt Vacuum-seal the pearl onions in their peel and cook for 3 bursts of 30 seconds each until soft. Then cut the onions in half, remove the peel and lightly caramelise them in a pan. Add balsamic vinegar and season with salt.

Black garlic paste 80g black garlic 20 g black rice vinegar 20 g soy sauce Salt, sugar

8 affilla cress stems 8 pommes soufflees

TO SERVE

Place the sliced flat iron steak in the middle of a warmed plate. Place the polenta with the corn as well as the short ribs, baby corn cobs, black garlic and caramelised onions in an attractive arrangement on the plate. Lastly add the maize foam and the Malto. Dab the ponzu gel on the Polenta with Corn. Garnish with affilla cress and pommes soufflees and dress with the hot beef sauce.

Press the garlic through a fine sieve and then mix with rice garlic and soy sauce in the Thermomix for 2 minutes at the highest setting until they are fine. Pass the mixture through a fine strainer and season to taste with salt and sugar.

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DI SH VI I

CITRUS FRUITS GREEK YOGHURT CANDIED OLIVES SPONGE

Blood orange cream Blood orange macaroon Blood orange sorbet Candied olives Citrus fruit balls Kumquats Mandarin and olive oil sponge Mandarin gel Mandarin jelly Olive oil Malto Yoghurt cream Yoghurt lime ice cream Yoghurt sponge stone

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DISH VII

CITRUS FRUITS GREEK YOGHURT I CANDIED OLIVES I SPONGE

Candied olives

Mandarin and olive oil sponge

Blood orange balls

200g pitted Taggiasca olives 200ml water 200g sugar

3 eggs 150g sugar 125ml olive oil 125 mandarin juice Zest of 1 untreated mandarin orange 190g flour 5g baking powder

260ml blood orange juice 120g egg yolk 60g egg white 135g butter 80g sugar 10 gelatine sheets, softened and squeezed Red food colouring

Drain the olives and rinse with hot water. Then put them in a pot of boiling water for 30 seconds in order to remove the oil. Drain and dry off the olives with paper towels. Bring the water and the sugar to the boil to produce a simple syrup. Pour over the olives and let it stand. For a period of 10 days pour the hot syrup over the olives each day, increasing the sugar content by 10 % each time. Finally, drain the sugar away completely. Then dice the olives and dry them at 50·c for 2 days in a dehydrator.

Blood orange pearls 500g blood orange puree 5 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed Red food colouring Bring the blood orange puree to the boil and dissolve in the gelatine. Dye the blood orange mixture red. Then, using a spray bottle, trickle the mixture into liquid nitrogen in order to make the pearls. Then with a skimmer carefully remove the pearls, place them on a plate and freeze until needed.

Separate the eggs and beat the egg whites with the sugar until firm. Then, using a hand-held blender, make an emulsion out of the egg yolk, olive oil, mandarin juice and mandarin zest. Fold the emulsion carefully into the firm egg white. Then mix the flour and the baking powder together and fold the mixture into the whipped egg whites. Put the mixture into a ½ size food service tray covered with baking paper and bake for 5 minutes at 190·c in a pre-heated oven. Then reduce the temperature to 170·c and continue to bake the sponge for 30 minutes. Allow to cool on a grate and cut out the desired size before serving.

Yoghurt lime ice cream 750ml milk Zest of 8 untreated limes 580g sugar 2g Super Neutrose 750g yoghurt 500g quark 200ml lime juice Warm the milk and lime zest to 40•c. Mix the sugar and Super Neutrose together and add to the mixture. Warm the mixture to 86 ·c and then pass through a conical strainer onto the yoghurt quark mixture and mix together. Lastly, add the lime juice. Pour the mixture in a Pacojet contain­ er and freeze at -18 •c for at least 12 hours. Pacotize it and store in freezer until required.

Mix the blood orange juice, egg yolk, egg white, butter and sugar to 90•c in the Thermomix. Then add the gelatine. Divide the mixture into two parts and dye one part red. Then put into hemispherical silicon moulds and freeze overnight. Take out the frozen hemispheres and stick them together in the two different colours. Store them in the freezer. Stick a toothpick in the middle of the balls to make it easier to dip the balls into the coating.

Blood orange coating 180ml water 40g sugar 13g vegetable gelatine 15ml lime juice Bring all the ingredients to the boil and strain. When a skin has formed on the jelly, slide to the side with a spoon and immerse the blood orange balls three times. Allow the coated blood orange balls to thaw out on a tin rack covered with baking paper. After thawing remove toothpick.

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Blood orange macaroons

Mandarin gel

Olive oil Malto

220 ml blood orange juice 20g sugar 20g icing sugar 40g egg whites Red food colouring (powder)

250g mandarin puree 3g agar-agar 3g gel Ian gum 50g sugar

1 tbsp olive oil 10 tbsp Malto

Whip all the ingredients together and then dye them pink. Use an icing bag with a plain nozzle to create small macaroons on a mat and dry at 80 ·c for 12 hours in the dehydrator.

Bring all ingredients to the boil. Pour onto a tray and then leave to cool completely. Then mix in Thermomix until smooth and strain. Refrigerate until you are ready to serve.

Mix the olive oil with the Malto until a fine powder is created.

Citrus fruit-segment balls 2 blood oranges 1 grapefruit 1 orange

Yoghurt sponge stones Kumquats 250g kumquats 175 ml water 175ml orange juice 175g sugar ½ vanilla pod 1 bay leaf ½ cinnamon stick 2 cloves Zest of ½ untreated lemon Trim the ends of the kumquats. Cut them in half and remove the seeds. Then blanch the kumquats. Bring the remaining ingredients to the boil and pour over the kumquats. Then vacuum-seal.

300g egg white 62 g almond semolina 60g Yopol 60g sugar 20g flour Mix all ingredients in Thermomix until smooth. Put the mixture into an iSi-Siphon, load with 4 gas capsules and refrigerate for 4 hours. Then spray the mixture into a plastic container and cook in the microwave at 1000 watts for 55 seconds. Break the cooled mixture into pieces and then dry at 80 •c in the dehydrator for 12 hours.

Peel and fillet the citrus fruit. Dip the fillets in liquid nitrogen, take them out again and break them into segments. Then let them thaw and put them into hemispherical moulds, freeze and stick them together again as whole balls. Keep the balls frozen until needed.

TO SERVE

Place the mandarin and olive oil sponge in the middle of the plate, spread the yoghurt cream on top and sprinkle with candied olives. Arrange the mandarin jelly, the olive oil Malto, the kumquats and the blood orange balls around the sponge. Place one segment ball on the olive oil Malto. Place some dabs of olive oil attractively on the plate. Arrange the candied olives and blood orange pearls. Then put a scoop of the yoghurt and lime ice cream on the sponge and decorate with blood orange macaroons and honey cress.

Garnish Honey cress

Yoghurt cream Mandarin jelly 400 mandarin juice Zest of 1 untreated mandarin orange 4 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed Bring the mandarin juice with the zest to the boil and strain. Then dissolve in the gelatine and put into prepared mandarin silicon moulds and freeze.

250g Greek yoghurt 20g icing sugar 5 drops of yuzu aroma 10ml olive oil Suspend the yoghurt for 5 hours in a cloth and then flavour with the remaining ingredients.

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MENU V

DISH VI 11

BANANA SPLIT [RELOADED] BANANAS CREAM TAHI TI VANILLA CHOCOLATE

Aerated chocolate Almonds Banana cookies Banana cream Banana gel Banana sorbet Bananas Chocolate cream Chocolate drops Chocolate sponge Muscovado crumble Vanilla ice cream

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BAU.STEINE DISH VIII

A childhood memory: A soft, ripe banana, vanilla ice cream, cream and chocolate sauce in the ice cream parlour next to the Achern town hall •.. has become an artis­ tic, precision-engineered cluster contain­ ing an incalculable array of details. Banana savarin, chocolate drops, marinated and caramelised banana, muscovado sugar crumble, banana gel, chocolate cream, gold almonds, chocolate sponge, and aer­ ated chocolate, banana cookies, choco­ late gel and cream, banana pearls ... The highlight is the ostensibly modest but su­ per-creamy coconut and vanilla ice cream made in the Pacojet. Just like the classic cream made from Valrhona chocolate and the fruity sous-vide banana, the ice cream is really almost an entire dessert in its own right.

MENU V

Vacuumed bananas

Vanilla ice cream

Chocolate cream

200ml banana juice 24g passion fruit puree 20g sugar 4g honey Pulp from ½ vanilla pod 1 banana

300ml milk 200g coconut puree The pulp of 3 vanilla pods 105g cane sugar 0.5g Super Neutrose 120g egg yolk

125ml milk 125ml cream 3 7g egg yolk 25g sugar 112 g dark couverture chocolate 1.4g xanthan gum

Boil up all the ingredients except the bananas. Leave the resulting juice to cool. Peel the bananas and before serving vacuum-seal with the juice for 1 hour.

Heat the milk, coconut puree and vanilla pulp in the Thermomix to 40 ·c. Mix the sugar and Super Neutrose together and heat with the milk to 85•c. Then thicken it with egg yolk. Put in the Pacojet container and freeze. Pacotize as required.

Bring the milk and cream to the boil and thicken with egg yolk and sugar at 85·c. Add in the cou­ verture and then stir until smooth. Spread out the mixture on a tin and then refrigerate for 24 hours. Mix the cream with xanthan gum in the Thermo­ mix. Then place it in icing bag and refrigerate until needed.

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DISH VI11

BANANA SPLIT [RELOADED] BANANA I CREAM I TAHITI VANILLA I CHOCOLATE

Banana mixture

Crunchy base

180g cream 150 ml banana juice 1 g liquid banana aroma (Sosa) 225 g white couverture chocolate 150g egg yolk

75g hazelnut praline 30g milk chocolate 24 g roasted almonds, chopped and roasted 24 g Eclat d'Or (crepe wafers)

Bring the cream, the banana juice and the banana aroma to the boil.. Heat the mixture with the white couverture in the Thermomix to 85 •c. Add the egg yolk to thicken. Pour the mixture into a terrine mould and poach in a bain-marie at 130 ·c for 2 hours in the oven. Then refrigerate for 6 hours in the refrigerator. Mix to 50 •c in the Thermomix and pour into 6cm diameter silicon savarin moulds, ensuring that no air enters.

Melt the hazelnut praline noisette and milk chocolate. Add the remaining ingredients and mix them. Spread the mixture on baking paper and then refrigerate. Then cut out rings the same size as the savarins and lay them on top, ensuring there is no air between them. Press gently and freeze.

250g dark couverture chocolate 200g cocoa butter Banana gel 250ml banana juice 62 g passion fruit puree 31 g sugar 3.25 g agar-agar 3.25g gel Ian gum Bring all the ingredients to the boil and then leave to cool completely. Then blend in Thermomix until smooth and strain .

Melt the ingredients in a bain-marie and mix them with a hand-held blender. Avoid creating bubbles. Then strain the mixture to produce the resulting spray. Put the spray into an airbrush and spray a very fine layer over the frozen savarins. Freeze until ready to serve.

Vanilla ice cream

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Muscovado crumble 100g butter 100g flour 50g muscovado sugar 25g cane sugar Knead all the ingredients into a dough. Crumble the dough by hand onto a tray. Bake the crumble in the oven at 180 ·c for 25 minutes.

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Vacuum-cooked banana

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Chocolate cream

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Chocolate drops 300ml milk 20g sugar 80 g dark couverture chocolate 3g xanthan gum Bring milk and sugar to the boil. Add in the couverture and then stir until they are smooth. Then work in the xanthan gum in the Thermomix. Pour the mixture into the 20mm diameter hemispherical silicon moulds and then freeze. Ease the hemispheres out of the moulds while still frozen and insert a toothpick. Freeze until further use.

Chocolate covering for the drops 410ml water 80g sugar 25g cocoa powder 25g vegetable gelatine Bring all ingredients to the boil. When a skin has formed on the jelly, push it to the side with a spoon and immerse the deep-frozen hemispheres twice. Remove the toothpick carefully, and cover and refrigerate the drops on baking paper.

Aerated chocolate 227g dark couverture chocolate 90ml sunflower oil Melt the couverture and sunflower oil in a bain-marie. Put the chocolate and oil mixture into a iSi-Siphon and charge with 2 soda and 2 cream capsules. Spray the chocolate and oil mixture in an iced vacuum pouch, vacuum and freeze immediately. As soon as the chocolate is frozen, remove from vacuum pouch and portion into desired size.

Chocolate sponge

Gold almonds

15g almond semolina 15g sugar 7g cocoa powder 5g flour 100g egg white

50g almonds, halved 16 g icing sugar 2 g gold powder

Mix all ingredients in Thermomix for 5 minutes until smooth. Put the mixture into an iSi-Siphon and load with 4 gas capsules. Then refrigerate for 4 hours. Spray into a plastic container and cook in the microwave at 1000 watts for 55 seconds. Let the sponge cool. Break it into small pieces and then dry it in the oven for 12 minutes at 80 •c.

Heat the almonds with the icing sugar slowly in a pan until the sugar begins to melt. Then, constantly stirring, keep heating until a gold-brown caramel is created. Let the almonds cool and then dye them with the gold powder.

Caramel and banana balls 1 banana Brown sugar

Banana cookies 125g banana puree 25g glucose 75g liquid butter 50g icing sugar 75 flour 75g egg white

Peel the bananas and with a parisienne scoop. Cut out 22mm diameter balls. Roll the balls in brown sugar and caramelise with a culinary torch.

Garnish 1 pack of atsina cress

Mix all ingredients in Thermomix for 3 minutes until smooth. Then spread on a Silpat mat and bake at 160 •c for 15-20 minutes. Break into pieces of the required size. TO SERVE

Banana pearls 250 ml banana juice 62g passion fruit puree 31 g sugar 6g honey 3 ¼ sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed ½ tsp gold powder Bring the banana juice with the passion fruit puree, sugar and honey to the boil and dissolve the gela­ tine into the mixture. Using a spray bottle, trickle the mixture into liquid nitrogen in order to make the pearls. Then with a skimmer, carefully remove the pearls, dye with gold powder and keep on a plate in the freezer until needed.

Spread the muscovado crumble in a sickle shape on the plate. Place a banana savarin in the middle of the sickle and the chocolate drops at either end. Cut a small 10mm diameter ring out of the vacuumed banana and place it on the sickle. Make it look nice by placing a few dabs of banana gel and chocolate cream on the crumble. Then decorate the sickle with gold almonds, chocolate sponge, a caramelised banana ball and the aerated chocolate. Place atsina cress and banana cookies between the gel and the chocolate cream dabs. Finally, distrib­ ute the banana pearls and place a banana cookie on the scoop of vanilla ice cream.

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SERVICE

Effortless. That's how it should seem, everything that comes from the kitchen. Casually conjured up on the plate, easy as can be. And so it must be presented to the guest as if the chef made the dish by chance, extreme­ ly laid back. Conversation should not be disturbed. There should be no scent of awe wafting through the restaurant. Just ease, cheerfulness and pleasure. »Here we have a fine Gambero« says Yildiz Bau, smiling, she takes a plate from colleague's tray and places it before the guest. With a light hand but positioned precisely to the millimetre. On this are, among other things, baked shellfish, a sweetheart cabbage and langoustine roulade, a Gamberoni tartare, Thai curry cream, yam roots and a complex bergamot sauce. Many days work and eaten in just a few moments. But what moments they are ...

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»I want to make our customers happy« Yildiz Bau says, »they should go home happy!«. Happy and content - not lectured. You won't get any didactic lectures from her. But you will get the same consistency and the same perfectionism as from her husband. The Baus see their restaurant as a total work of art. So they set the high­ est standards in precision for service and demand the utmost concentration. The guest should not notice any of this. Service in >Victor's Fine Dining< reminds one of a well managed ballet company. In other places, staff short­ ages may be concealed by entertainers and short-term staff but there's a professionally choreographed pro­ duction to marvel at in the Bau's kitchen. A production which starts with what you don't see; empty places, for example. Every afternoon the stage is set, with the exact number of chairs set out for the amount of guests in the evening. Everything is polished until it shines. The pro­ duction begins with the entry of the first guests and the first oshibori (hot towel) of the evening. And it doesn't finish until the last visitor has glided happily from the building. And nothing that happens in between is hap­ hazard or improvised, not the time when the apertif is served or the menu is presented, not the wording with which the dishes are announced, nor the manner with which the plates and bowls are laid before the guest, nor the routes which the staff take through the restaurant. Everything is taken into account; there no half-empty water glasses or dropped napkins left on the floor. Even if the air is burning in the kitchen, out here, nobody hurries, no smile slips; there is all the time in the world. It's like in the circus; the dangerous somersault has to come across coolly and calmly.

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>MEMORIES OF JAPAN< SEAFOOD I PONZU I RED SHISO

JAPANESE YELLOWFIN MACKEREL [SASHIMI] YUZUKOSHO I BUTTERMILK DASHI I IMPERIAL CAVIAR

BLUE LOBSTER CARROTS I CALAMANSI I COMBAVA OIL I CORIANDER BISQUE

ZANDER GREEN VEGETABLES I PEARL ONIONS I FOAMED DASH!

THE BEST OF VEAL DIM SUM I HAZELNUT I ALBA WHITE TRUFFLE

WILD HARE FROM THE SOLOGNE HEART OF PALM I ASIAN BROCCOLI I PURPLE CURRY

>JAPANESE MOMENT< MATCHA TEA I LYCHEE I GREEN SHISO

>BAU.STEIN< TONKA BEAN I PEAR I RED WINE

MENU VI

DISH I

>MEMORIES OF JAPAN< SEAFOOD PONZU

RED SHISO

Abalone Amaebi shrimps Cockles Enoki mushrooms Oyster cream Oyster ice cream Oyster tapioca Oysters Passe-pierre seaweed Ponzu foam Razor clams Red shiso sorbet Tapioca chip Yellowfin tuna

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BAU.STEINE DISH I

Christian Bau's cuisine specialises in find­ ing the best fish and seafood products in the oceans of the world. In his now classic Memories of Japan he converts a cornu­ copia of tender razor clams and cockles, nutty abalone and sweet amaebi shrimps, cubes of buttery yellowfin tuna, Gillardeau oysters and the tips of passe-pierre sea­ weed into a spectacular collage of the most varied of textures and maritime aromas: purist and highly complex at the same time. Accompanied by a fresh citrus ponzu foam and a flavourful shiso cress sorbet, the lightly poached oysters provide a ele­ gant way into this elaborate miniature.

MENU VI

Oysters

Ponzu foam

Red shiso sorbet

8 oysters (Gillardeau No 2)

80g orange fillets 120ml dashi (see page 347) 50ml chanponzu 20ml yuzu juice 8 g sugar 2.5 sheets of gelatine, softened and squeezed

75g sugar 4.5 g Super Neutrose 22 g glucose powder 260ml water 70 ml lime juice 35 ml yuzu juice 6 packs of red shiso cress

Open the oysters and separate them from the muscle. Collect the oyster water and strain. Poach the oysters at 42 •c for 1 minute in the oyster water. Then remove beard and cut the oysters in half.

Bring the orange fillets and the dashi to the boil and then reduce the strain liquid to 80 g. Add the chanponzu, yuzu juice and sugar and dissolve the gelatine into it. Put into an iSi-Siphon and load with 2 gas capsules. Thoroughly chill in icy water for 6 hours. Bring to correct temperature with hot water before serving.

Mix sugar, Super Neutrose and glucose together. Bring the water to 45 •c and trickle in the sugar mixture. Heat to 86 ·c and then strain. Add the citrus juices and then let stand for 3 hours at 40·c. Then mix in the shiso cress and freeze overnight in a Pacojet container. Pacotize several times to create an even mixture. Freeze until needed. If necessary pacotize again.

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DI SH I

>MEMORIES OF JAPAN< SEAFOOD I PONZU I RED SHISO

Oyster tapioca

Abalone

60 g tapioca pearls 3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 1 tbsp finely-chopped spring onions 1 tbsp garlic oil (see page 348) 1 tbsp ginger oil (see page 348) 2 tbsp enoki mushrooms, 3 cm heads 1 tbsp finely-chopped chives Salt, pepper

2 large, live abalones 2 tbsp dashi (see page 347) 1 tbsp white soy sauce 5g kombu

Boil the tapioca pearls for 8 minutes in water until soft, then strain and shock. Open the oyster and collect the oyster water. Then remove the beard and muscle from oysters and dice. Saute the spring onions with garlic and ginger oil. Add the tapioca, mushrooms and the oyster and boil down to a cream. Season to taste with chives, salt and pepper.

Cut the abalones from their shells, wash, clean and hit lightly with a tenderiser. Put the other ingredients into a vacuum pouch and heat at 72 ·c in a bain-marie for 12 hours. Then cool off and cut into 1 mm slices.

Razor clams 6 large razor clams (XXL) 1 stalk of parsley 15 ml olive oil Vacuum-seal the razor clams with parsley and olive oil and cook at 72 •c for 3 minutes 20 seconds in the bain-marie. Release from shell and cut each clam into 3 equally thick strips.

Cockles 2 tbsp mirepoix (shallots, mushrooms, celery, leek white) 1 tbsp vegetable oil 16 large cockles Salt, pepper 1 tbsp Noilly Prat 2 tbsp white wine Saute the mirepoix in oil, add the cockles and season with salt and pepper. Add Noilly Prat and white wine, bring rapidly to the boil once, cover and let stand until the cockles have opened completely. Shell the cockles and then refrigerate in the strained stock.

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Oysters

PAGE 251

Ponzu Foam

PAGE 251

Red shiso sorbet

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Liquid marinade 2 85 ml white soy sauce 30 ml dashi (see page 347) 10 ml bergamot juice 10 ml bonito vinegar 0.875 g xanthan gum 63 ml miso oil 150 ml sunflower oil

Oyster cream 1 shallot cut into brunoise Vegetable oil 30 ml white wine 75 ml dashi (see page 347) 3 oysters (Gillardeau No 2) 90 g creme fraTche 10g chives 10 g coriander 1 stalk of parsley Agar-agar Gel Ian gum Saute the shallot until translucent, then add white wine and dashi and reduce. Open the oysters, then bring to the boil once in oyster water. Then immediately mix it with the creme fraTche, chives, coriander and parsley in the Thermomix. Pass through a conical strainer. Add 1 g agar-agar and 1 g gellan gum per 100 ml mixture. Bring the liquid to the boil again with the agar-agar and gellan gum and then let it form a gel. When cold, beat mixture into a smooth gel in the Thermomix.

Oyster pearls 100 g oyster meat 100 ml oyster water 125 g sour cream 1 sheet of gelatine, softened and squeezed Liquid nitrogen

Mix the soy sauce, dashi, bergamot juice and the bonito flakes and bind with a little xanthan gum. Strain the mixture through a sieve. Then mix in the oils, stirring constantly.

Tapioca chip 50 g tapioca pearls Salt 1 tbsp dashi (see page 347) Palm fat for deep-frying

TO SERVE

First, marinade razor pods and cockles in shiso vinaigrette and chives. Then marinade the abalones and the amaebi shrimps with lemon vinaigrette and sea salt. Lastly marinate the tuna dice with >liquid marinade 2team coachTalmi.ihle< Hotel-Restaurant in Sasbachwalden. In 1993, in the >Schwarzwaldstube< in Baiersbronn, he found a great teacher in Harald Wohlfahrt and became his sous chef. Since 1998, Bau has been Head Chef and Host in >Victor's Fine DiningCook of the Year< in 2018 and bearer of the German Order of Merit. So, it's time to record the current state of his cu­ linary art in 56 incomparable dishes - modern classics, they are shaped by their French basis as well as by Asian influences. But above all by an uncompromising obses­ sion with detail. 28 excerpted dishes - Bau.Steine - comprehensibly illus­ trate the key components and essential principles of Bau's cuisine. Supplementary text by Dr. Christoph Wirtz guides one to a deeper insight into Christian Bau's culi­ nary understanding. Lukas Kirchgasser's brilliant imagery makes this book into an aesthetic treat.

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ISBN 978-3-87515-431-3

9 783875 154313