Origin: The Food of Ben Shewry 1741969875, 9781741969870

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Ofl 1n THE FOOD OF BEN SHEWRY

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sharing stories This book is a reflection ofmy life and my personality. It's an open and honest document and I haven't held much back. I want to show the reality and detail ofbeinga chef. My restauran t might be ranked at number63 in the world. but il doesn't mean that the lifestyle is glamorous. To me this book is much more than a cookbook. It's pa rt sto1y book. part picture book. and I hope that people will read it from cover to cove1: Personally. r ve always loved recipe books that read more like story books. My stories are rea l stories. from my childhood growing up on a n isolated farm in New Zealand to my training as a chef and the trials .~nd tribulations of my early jobs. to my current life as the father of three young children and thechefofa successful Melbourne restaurant. Attica. I h~wen·1 glossed over anything. I've told it how it is.

l.iy IOOCI has been dCSCflbed 9S O;)ll~llvt' fOOd

QO(]

In

many ,esP(.'CIS !Mi's a corrN:1 desc,1cuon Almost all mv CliSl'les cWe inso11et1 hy an .mpouom mc,mo,y, sto,y

cw c1 oas1 eK.Peu~c-

Nf!\\t Zc>llltmtl c ncf MOIi: lllT\OCllCI WllO cootCCI 1n ii OlDdCIO ff{IW

1ao 1-1:e to mol.e PC'(l{)I(' l h1ni.11:now ma110

ef.'00 IOOCh~. ano

That IOO(I Sl)eC1.tl1St Oavl(I fhOml)S()ll \Vl!n wnorn I (h(I l1

s1a9~ at Nanm n Lonoon. 1n uw emty oays m An«:n. my mc-n-.r rea1u1eC1 an unusual rn1x of oou, co1sIne styles uu1.

pos,11,"t" ChOlces nboul the food I ChDDS{> lO Sl'rve to

as o puris1.1cotJSan1Df1nomvse11101J1e1\(I 111e two.Soon 1ric, h1s1 Athca menu, you woula h~ emen a soniewrlat t100111ona1F,ench•Slyle poached ctuc~n Cf1so ana incn Ille ne.-;t c0u1se wou!a Mve t,ecn an auU,enttC nnm u,,&: llOO

my ()UCSlS EWtyyea, ~I /llltC3. (>Uf menu 1$ 00\Vf'lleatled 4!».000 times. ,nrlucnclng ana insPlhflQ Oltle:'f chcrs around

styl~ mat 1u,ned t1eaos.1 was h\'t!nty•e1gnt w1m a yovoo

the w0110 1tvoug11000I' chOIC:es.. rnv cOtleagve-s ana I co1.11rJ

t,i1ffllly to reim, scmea OI

tleclOi!' 100 late ot nn cnta1e soec,es o l

10 COftll')fOllllSE' 111 ilny way

the \\ il)l I do that IS by Sllafu')Q pcisonal SlOH("S A.$ a Chel I Ill n\ I na,•e O •12SP00$1Dllrly 10 mal:e

VIII

1have bee!'n lonunme 10 lltlve l\8d a numt>ei ol impot1no1 merno,s m my coo'l::IO{I caree,. no mo,e so 1non

l1sn 01 p&.Jnt l~t's an

3\,,es:orne 1('$1")0n$>l>lht)' 1111'\a,-e unsus1.:imable IOOds on my ml'flU then rm a oart ol th{> prot>!,cm I caol hve w1tn ma1. I waru to oe a pan c,

u,e ~1t0n

the eth·cs Of 1000 ~ Olten tl!O{JCn 1,om US W1lh

evet)1n.ng too a1 A.me-a rm a:1emr,ting 10 onng lOOd nact

:o ,ts ra\,'\"St 1011m anc :o 1econoec1 w,tn na:u,e ano cunuml h.Sto,y. 1CNmoion so..,c.at.seo amsan I.Jtrnecs w hQ DtJt their ""'4H a-no s:,oi. 3no a giea: aea1 o: tare mto ,a.sing SIJDl>rb OU3Lt')' \'Htoct

ano 1>101luee. ano I have mt."flloneo 1nem

t~nck.illO.SDOot'.

w,th ad or 11s trad1hon01 accompaniments ti was~ btzaue

IMu,e ano completely uiip1epa1Q1ous mIng I wou1a mtl't111n

I soon rea&isecl that I WOUid never be a01e 10 11uly my o,.•,n s1yte unlt>Ss I moved away horn cootmg

0€.>\'etol)

uom 1nese st,ong relerence DOims 1hat had oeen so 1nUuen11al 111 my career.SubConsc10uS1y I began to look 10 my New· Zeaiano ch1ldhOOCI for inspMat1011 rmnn:.ally, the DJaCe ra moved FN,ay lrom to le~n mo,:e about cooJtino was about to teach me more abOut myselr than I coulcl nave imag,ned

°'

Initially frustrated by the lact cuunary hernaoe OI both New Zealand ancl later Australia. I learned 10 turn tflls into a suength, to acknowtedge thal we have lew SlfOOO cooking trad1tl(NlS and. thefefore. very rew cultural

resurctions or e:icpe,ct.auons that older, more estat>tished coun1nes are heJt1 to. 1ClscJnt realise 11at the lime, bul for me as a young chE!I lhtS was 1neteCl11:)ly rmpo,tant. QI course none or ttus WOUid nave been poss1tlle wttr,out the many chefs ana coots tnat paved the way lor my generation.: people rnctucM(J my fuencis tneong uew, tetSll'/3 WaJ:uda. Ned Perry. Stephanie AJexant1et". Jacques Reymot!CJ. Mag91e seer ana David Thompson m Aust,alaa: and, 111 New Zealand. Pete( G()(don and Ma,~ l1mache, Over time. I also slatted to take lnspi:raUon fcom uie ,nc,ea1Dly sirong ne111age or !he 1nt11Qenous PEOQles or New Zea.land ano Australia. One or my earffest 51Qnaune ci,snes at A.me.a A srmp1e 0I!ih of Po1a10 Cooked ,n the Earth It Was Grown (see oage 35}, pays tiomage lo the trachtional Ma0t1 nangl. ano rm now se,ving wallaDy. bUnya nulS aod na11~ Ausuataan fruits and roas11na bull kelp the way Ausua1ia·s ,noigenous peoole nave done ,t roe centurres. Good caoktng to m~ 1s abOut the 1ng1erJ1entS. the 0toc:ess and [he hean m11, not at>out ulterior mollves. CGOTBlS or awafCIS. It ShoulCI be ebOut iea,n.ng blind That kS tne real cenue ot creat1v1ty - IMng 1n Ule moment of the ~ocess. anc1 not gemno Ml the way of yourself by e10109 tn,r.qs: tna:. aon't matter. It's wnat comes r,om the absolute oure ae,-.-c;.1ion 10 me act or it

rr ~ IOIJO:i 1ng 1s m., att,iee on 1ng,ed-entsand l10W 10 ar.r.rcac:n me reoDt>S 1n thas bOOlr. ~

fron-, •t;':' l'l.#:'it:I

locus on wnat you are dOing

-,.•.1Jr; ·t' ..-,(,,:J'"ll"lq -JOUl\i.llf! Leatenolh1ng behlncl 1.

t•;..!J" l;TiiCl•Jl',,.. •·.t·iQulu V.· IOC911/ gronn and Ylflereve,

:,,'.t'. t.-- ,;.ff;anc..

,..-'" tolO pu,-o:."..!-d 1•!1J1n urd kle;al

- ReciJ)es w11 wry a•eaUy aepencfano on 1he 1ngsec11ents 1n your reg•OI\ me ume ol lhe year and YQLJI Pf?fSOnal 1nterp1e1a11on or my INQrds.1 advise you not 10 fOIOw lhf!ffl SlaviShly - Ail season,nQ is a 'lf!fy peisonal 1r,w,g, everyone ta&es 1h1ngs d•frerenuy - season w11h your 1ns11nct

- All seafOOd has been cnosen oecause 1t'S a mo,e sustainable choce than oche1 spec.es - the pomons a•e small ID ,effect lhe lact th.al OIA' WIICI SIOCkSOI f1$h are noc inhnl1e and 11 we mvst ea1 hsh.. we sllOulCI do so in a responSrb!e way by eat1no less DI 11 - A!l l1ve Cfustaceans must be humanely k1llea according ID lhe RSPCA's CtvStacean Quiefehnes, - the map1ty of p1epara110ns Sllelula be maoe on 1he oay that'$ been one of our main phllosopn~s and strengths at Athca. If you don't maKe 1hings on me aay, tile dl$1'\eS w1111as1e ILa1 anci llle£ess. Cooking lJmes are only a guide Try to COO): ,nshncllvely i.n1s wu1 devetclp Lhe more ti.me you: spend in a kitchen.

- MoSl garn1She'5 need to be se,ved hom room 1empera1ue - No eo.ble tooe1 should be wasieuue, and buttetrmlk Wt' bUy exceouonaJ

lht> no..,ncrs of lhe cows ,11et. lhe seasl)n,j)J varia11bOS 1n

01ganic cream liom a srn.'MI rie,o of Je,sey cows from tates l:nuance, v.ctoua To me.1~ mtll; \lfttl t:rt>am horn lhe Je,sey COW 1$ bng.11 IS truly a maon..ttcen, IJ{laSl. l:no wn

oasw,,-. the ctli'C:ts or drOUQht iWltJ me l>fee.11att?

flmnN !II)~ Du,,~ 0 !)C'nf"IOIU!l n11M)l1n1 Of WHOi t.'l'I , ... CMtf

~~ 1mm U'M;> chum iW'Cf loun thC! bullet mto

3 bii!t Sauccle :J-5 ml,C:h hol!N111ll~ ln')fn HI(' l)tr11Pr ,00 f)()t.~~

(new, ,s111c !lffl(I 10 1tnem, 1n i;omr· ~,11 1r VotJ

wanl s.Dlt('(I DullC'I) SN ll'll•tlUH{'I il!IIU(' fo, anomt•t U(;(l

~rrioerau,• 11 no, using lfTIIUl~hilll'fV SU:ldl II~ bolt(>tlfl1II' IJIJOUQII fl lint• t.J(W

,nu,

8 t>Owl S(m=i,QnW'lth,Of,IM!t OlflOul'IIOIMII 111\(Jl~frigL•HJll'

""""""""'

PL1ce r. n!:.niw11om s,~om on eoc:11 ,i1;111, l'Ofcll lhe9t)fJlo:x:ll tOst.oci;y.Jfe1s. 1-rlKtllMCU'WW'IQOkJer

I ODnl $fl0fe llllelf (!11l/1fJStiJ5111. ro me. If W;JS phys!Ci}I ~

ewes knt.>t,'1 oil atJout. 11Jtm me l)(esslJle YIOU"1 ,eallycomtton

ooamwaysaoarittot,wisw,rnmy ~

By1lien, fheg amooo/

sheep on sl eep n111c.oun,ry fl!QtJill!S t)OOIJDOQS arYJ ex,x,,,ern,

- atkt1 p.afiE'flCe. Wtren" ceme rme to mustet thi!' Sheep, as marl)rcont~

as i CtJVlc1 tl'IWPk r,1 neel,I/Jhl#

lamb$ loqefhet mn l h!S

haODl.'rte(J. me otaer ewes vlOUlacdrlly assess theJUVeft1Jes. ohen sta«r1119 ~l.llltll rne very t.Jscsec.onos t:w/Ole

,eaa,ng a tJIV.J►.aut o r ~ inco~,r,ons on theedt:;e al metiusn0taJlsCn..'Ulelllhell'lf?,q,el~OOQSbP,•lflOp{f.'O C.t'IOf{Je U~

IJJIU!tl(!S

l musl nctnw 5l'll!l!f' f:Jm""'flc»Dk/!f!f)IIM.'WlCI~

fll. l011Ct>spt1tltCdup;Jrtddown1t1eBlt)fxt!, a l20tJae

{SO h«u,1e). t.(Q) fl.'ff

,JOO mcueJ lltlJh 1:111( 1111cc1,irnes

rnDOout !Jill( {JrthOu, duftn(J 0rl('("p!C b.Jttle WIUI my st1("('IJ /IS a )Heat a heavy frying pan CIYt'1 n.gr, neat season the lamb welJ on all sides w1l.h salt, add the oil to the pan and quickly seal Until gorcen btown. T1'liS ShOYld take no 10noer Chan I mi.nute, If you seal 100 tong 01 hard you wlll get a grey ring arOIJl'ICS you, meat wn.ch t$uncle,s:1rable, Place the laml> on a w11e ract 4n a roasting uay. Roast for 15-20 minutes. Probe with a d"JQltal tflem'IOmeter to enec1e the 1n1e,na1 rempe,auue ol tne meal Remove from the oven wnen 1t reaches 55°C(l3111f) and rest oo the rack 11"1 a warm place for 10minutes. When ready to se,w. carw the meat off the bones and Slice into 4 pieces,

4 small WIid slippery Jack musluooms 100 mt(3~ n oz)gra~seedoil 1able salt. to taste I kg -secona tltJl:i.tli until me muSSf>l lll('i\! OC-t}lns 10 tturr up 11110 suands S!ore ,n l'll'l 31lhl)f1l CQnl Olflet unt•I nl!ee, oeinQ at OU' SIOC1c.y.alds as M raisecJ the 010 .303 ufle end blled a bUloc~. thewt 1,01stel'J the aea(I an,mal wM 1ne l1ont biaoe of Qu, bulOo?e-i, guttlnc,. stanmnq ano on~al:.lf1Q dOwll the whOie beasi r!Qht tl\en ano tnere n·$ o,rOOQh ll'K:>Se eX£)enence-s Lhat I'~ undl!'rstood where e:,,:actty fOOd come-s J,om. now an aI,ImaI ,e~s whM,t'S !.IM10,,tl!"t!C1. and wnaI

a caw's stomacn smells ano IOO!s like if V(kJ ruptol'e tt Dy mstal.e v,nen you ife ~mnr;i 111ec.arcass,Asacnet 1fS•noo,1an.1 tome to nave s@en1h1sanoit's wny 1reel compaSSIOfl 10\~ailds arwt1ats rea1ed IOI meat It's al5o why I onlycnoose

co serve at Au.ea free:••arioe me111S; that have bevn ca,ec, i01 bf p,odutet& Ynm a sirong conscieru:e ana wl\O undl!!tstand 1esponsi01e .nimal hVStiancty Bef'o,e 1

am"ed., At1$1ra!.a I Nd no-oea wnat a reedlo! waS; 3Uol OU' ~ock ,n New 2ealana was g,ass·leCO~Ull' Ylllfl tJOalS

BROTH

TO FIN ISH

1lllre 13S fl otl4 cups) aromatDc ChlcJ:en Slock

SOO ml (17 11 oz/2 cups I non-GM canola oll"", for d:eep•hyIng

(see opPOS1te) 10 g ('. oz) fresh sh1l1ate mushroom lrfmmln,gs

(te 300 ml oo ; uoz) fresn young coconut \YaleF

2 shutal:e m ushrooms. sialks trim med (reserv e for

the broth I :mes caps 1hfn1y f.hced 25 o (I oz) thfnly sllcecl abalone 50 CJ ( 1,; oz) 1h,nly sriced cuttlef/sn 16 mushroom ~ant leav~s

fine gr,na of wMe pep,:ier

la,ge pinch or ClrH?Ct osmanthus flowNs

tiny pinch ol tabte sal t

l orge pI11Ch or cln(?d chrysiJnt.hemum pelats

so ml (1 • ft oz) Healthy Boy brand 11'\ln soy sauce, or to 1aste

Hem me ell h'1 a small deep-s1cJed soocepan to 1SO-C

{3SS°fl Deeo-1,v 1he ch1ck"en. in oa1CJ1es. ro, 2 m1nuteso, 1,.•1mm 1eat1y 10 serve, heal the chicken s tock. Sl\ulake

!hmm,ngs. o.aim sugar ano coconut watet 111a saocepan

u,111I gOldi.'ll and CIISP Remove ano (Ira.in on DOf)er towel

Place 3 sr11.1talre shces '"me oase of each 1>ow1

~OfJSf Oielow a SAmmer. 1a~1ng ca,e no110 let 11 0011 Afld

Lav the. aoa1one anc:I CutllehSh SIICes on IOD Place 4

:~ oeocer ana sail Se;,son to 1a.s1e \'tith tne soy sauce 1,· mayn~ a ~111em oreo, a l11t1e tessacl II was oecause naIf of the party naa JUSt M1snect 1ne ya,d

an agprec,auon fa, na1un~. ,oot 01,,e, and I S-1000 anc1 \',""al~ as 1he men a.no older 00)'5 attac(f'd tne- geese 1n an namfc. frenzieo Dal'~t featners Hying ano geariasseo ana too lazy ta oluct the •est. so tney Just le-ft them fy1og 10 rot 10 me paddoc1::. Jason ano I tald my uncle •,•,hell naa r,.appened I c.an rememoer the

oo~r C. tnen sphl me coconut opeo us111Qtile creaver.Remcwe tt1e ftesh (and resesve IOC: another use too), Leave 11\e coconut hust ,n a warm pi.ace to dry for 4 days. Preheat a barbecue to h"Jh. Place tile coconut nust ITT a roasting tray anc1 place on the outl, then set the hust allghl with a kitchen blOwto,ch. ee ca,eful as It ,"111 ou,n m1ense1:,, le4 the llan'les c:lle down by thems~ves. th.en turn olf 1ne bai1t>eo.se afld leave lhe tiusk to cool G11nd u,e husk mto as.h using a mo,tar and pesue.

2 tea towels, soatect In watl'f 2 small preces hesstan sack or musll.n (ctieeseclolh). s.oakcd In Willet Preheat 1tie oven 10 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). tn a bowl. combine tM potatoes w ith th e Oll and season w11n sa11. 1n a Cleep

roastmg tray. abOut 35 cm x 25 cm (14 x.10 inches), place harl of the SOIi in an even layer to cover lht' base or the uay, Place a damp 1ea 10wet ove, 11-.e soil anCI 1he,n a piece 01hessian sact on top. Place tile potatoes on Ule ness1an

sact. lllen cover w in, me othe1 D1ece of hessaan aflO tea towel, mating sure lhey aie seaaeo from l he so•. Place the , ema,ning SOI on lDP and Ugtuly cove, Wl(h l01L Bake f()II 3 hours, then ,eooce the oven temperature lo 100°C (20()DF'/ Gas ¼J and bake to, a rur1her 4 hOUfS (or up 10 SJ. nie 1ext1.Me ol the potatoes shoukJ be soh and creamy

CH ICKEN FLOSS 100 Q (3 ¼ oz) piece htt-,ange Chlcten breast fillet

100 ml (3:-S II ot) Hea1lhy eoy brand thin soy sauce

non-GM canola 011•. ror deep--fry1nQ Mann.ate lhe chicken ,n the soy sauce to, 1hout an u11:•

1eh-oera10r. Oram lhe Chicken. FIii a smau ueep saucepan no m()fe than one•thlld lull With all and heal 10 IG54C (329Uf)

36

Oeep-ffy me cti1cken roe 10 minutes. RemoYe with a sJoneo SIX!On. d1aln on pape. towel and coot. ChOp ,nto 2 cm (!: 1ncti) pieces. 1nen blitz until Hulfy 1n a small rooo p,oc-essor (01 pouod using a momu ancl pestle).

SM OKED CURD

TO FI N ISH

200 9 (1 OZ) IJOiM's m.t CUld ~ 200 'ii (7 OZ) homage blanc !COOS ctleese)

5 g ( . oz) flHl'lty g,ound MhlCally ocooucf'd callee

mgc· Ol)COCOf'k.ll llUsltuh lmOOtum 911nd)

lood· Q•OcJc sawelusr•. ror smoklog

20

t able 1-1111. to taste

8 SP,ICJS pqt,a (wild W311fCfHS). waShfd ;nc, leaves pec:k.to

Place bOlh ,ne am:ts In separa1e SlclllntHS·&.1eel boVAs ll(Jf'II a cold snlOt.et • using me snwous1. J]IOC:CI cu10 en me cen11e DI each p1me S(Jf1nkle U,ct curd Wllh u,~ OSfl, COH~ an,'1'

you to uimovc uw lml mea,11 from the SheCI cteaniv U:S1VJ a oa1r Place the cryster meat ano Juices. the l1rS1 measure of water. u,e ga,11c, Sl)flng onloll and g!noe1 In a small saucei,a.n anti bmlQ toa 5"Tlnlt'f Simmer to, 20m1numsona(JCflt~heat w1m the IICJ 1\311 on. AaUle bfofce out among them. Many wounds were mOcted on Mounl Taranak', and lf1 the encl he IOSt lhl? liC}ht for Pthanqa to ll'le

cverty aggressive Mount Tooga,lro. Btoken·neafted. 1atanak1 headec:1 west creat&l'l(J lhe wna.ngaooi River as ne Oed Whef\ d0uc1S SUH04.l'KI Mount 1a,ana1:.1, he IS salld to oe w·eep.ng f0f hlS lost IOve. wnen 1ne,e ,s a beaunful

sunset. he '5 sa,d to be d,sotay10Q hi~t to he,. And when u1e t10S11te anIIMM.1 1111'1 lllf.l: Ulfl CIJl)UW?:U Imm IIV' SIIC'II S~I .ISKl,r, 1n Ill(' 1C!li l(_1"r;110,

Wll(!f1 •~mly fO S(lfV('. 1>lace Ille r.rallf11C?ill ,n O Uo wl

an1l' o~r 111IomeI

40 beach aI,1trnch kl,,vH ~ .... :..,)11tN)n •OI.!. tOCOll!A oumo•,. l lllFll'11 Hf4• ,MUI

tnoo store N'l an tu11,g111 COf'llaint'r ort11I nec-cwn

ne.1c.ll •i,11i11liJCh s,,01>11n 111111• vt1tf11!. ,r•• 0, 111m 11111411 11y t.;.0'/f,'111\IJ V1Ilh U!~ llOIU.'HJfll' '.h hll

pot-roasted quince SF.RVES 4

Behind our farmhouse was a single tortured old quince tree. its trunk covered in moss and lichen. Formost of the year it resembled a grumpy old man and stood wretched and solila 1y. its spindly branches bare until spring when it would transform . covered with beautifu l apple-like blooms followed by the most exquisite. aromatic fruit in autumn. lo a CUII0US small Chlld hl:e mysell Quince was the most notnd lfuil HO\\' COUid some,h,ng Wllh such 8 b1?aut1ft.i IOJm

and Chafm1ng scenl be so h usua1,ng1y 1netllble when raw Every April I would oaze at the uee \'11th a suong urge 10

devour eve,y last 1,u11 on 11 - such was my neeMe1ed1th Daary sheep's ml& yoghuft 30 o (I oz) J, Frieoc, 6 Co. w 1rd 11\yme hon[!y*

100 g (3~i oz) easier (supe1t1ne) suga1

40 g W>ott:~ctJp}o,gantc ,aw almonds

tatlte salt, to taste

80 ml (2~ II oz/!i cup) water

Place Che yognurt in a sieve 11neo with muslin (Cheesec101h)

use a mancJOlioei 10 Slice 1ne a1monos vtt01hways into sma11 !V'fn snav.ngs

ana nanq over a 001·.1 an tne rerr~rator 101 aoout 12 hOurs a, 0\-ernignt

to dra,1n u,e whey

ALMOND CRUMBLE

Bnno Ille sugar ana wa1e1 to tile 00i11n a small saucepan. AOCI the almonds ano Sltnmf( fo, 5 muit,;tes Of um1111\ey are Slq1Uy uanslucent 01a111 ,n a small metal sieve and d1sca-d tne sy,uo ca1e1u11y auanoe the shaVJOQS. one s.l!ce at a time. on a s41cone na1:,ng mat 01"1 a ,ak,nQ IIBY l.meo w1in O:ik.1ng pape1 Cool to ,oom

STRAWBERRY MELON

MELO N JUICE

120 ml (3' , II oz) fr~hly Julr::e'1, Skimmed and strnlnt'd SHilWbtll)' Juice 60 Q (2' , oz) CilSlet (sup(l,Une) suoa,

100 ml (3:-i fl oz) heShly luiced, skimmed and s cralned

0.2 o natural ci1uc: oekl• 2 l(.g (4 lb 8 oz) secd~ss wa1ermeron. peered

wate,melon Juice (made from 1he reserved

woterme)on ollcuts. see oppos,te} 100 ml (3½ fl Ol) 1,eshly luiCed. skimmed o'IOd strainl'd

strawbeny Juice

Inn small saucepan. Of.og the strawbeuy 1u1ce i!fld sugar to

15 c;s (¼ oz) cosier (supe«hne) stJga, table salt. to 1as1e

lhe bOII, 1nen reduee u,e heat a-"l(j oentty simmer, skimming

15 ml (:4 n oz} suafned l'me Juice

any rro1h. fDI 5 minutes o unlil 1educec:J Uy one-quarter.

Remcwe lrom u,e heat and aoot 3.5 cm (ll: mch) SQUilte. use a smal 3cm(I', incn} round pasuycuuet to stamp out 20 lltUe togs. Use a small Sharp 1i:n1le to snape them !Ike stmwt>emes. (R:esetve the oltculs rCM the meton JUl(:e.) When reacty to serve, place the watem'IPIOO suawoemes 1n a vaCt.Jum pouch with the strawt>eny syruo ona vacuum-pact on 100 per cent ror 25 seconas an a charnoet vacuum sealer* 10con1PJess. Set aSl/. allhooyti ,1 win nor acnae·.ie tne same result. you coulO 1eJo~som lfowe,s, 10 ser,,,e Place 5 smat11easooons or ao0le c•eam on each plate. 01,\lln 1ne como,es1ea aopte ana place 2 pieces or apple on 1op ol each spcon of aeam Place a teaspoon of th1cte11eo avocauo 011 oetv:een !he apple 1>1eces. Cress the comc:iresseo apc:i1e w11.n 1ne apple d1s111a110n. Spurttre ec}cn plate w1U1 the appte tea powder.

8Ieak 1ne canGted leaves ,nto a rew s:,i:eces ani:J lay on a 1>aic1ng uay. using a M1croptane* . finely ~rate a small coa.ting ol f1ee1e•C1ued appre over the leaves. Place the apple-

~

0

z

.,"' 0

~

\~hen I was about twelve. we had iusl moved to a small country town. lnglewood. nght under Mount T.irnnaki. My p~ren1s had sold the dry stock farm and pu rchased a dai~y fa1·m sol could at tend high school without boarding. l went from a sd100I al _seven studen ts to a school of 450. 1 was so shy ,hm my eyes wou ld wel l up w 11 h tears when I had to speak in front of my classmates.

form.ation

H-gn sc11oa1 was g1eal bUt it ten u:e a means to an enc as I atteaoy t ne-,.,. wnal I wanteo 10 do lor a ca,ee1. A hlghl1gnl was norne econom,c-s whi!te I could actually do some coo1e.ng. and tne tea,che,. Janet MarShall, was really suooomve ol my rueam to beeome a chef. She was a IOvety,

oenerovs oet'son and had the atimly lil:e so maoy cooks: ot tnat gene1a1eon to 1nsonc1rve1y coax SOUifui Oavour out al nu~1ng,et11erilS. Ou11ng lessons PIJS Ma,Shall , ~ repeale(lty ask:,

'Does 111aste t1elic1ous? wnen cool:ifl9 wrth her this was ine Gnty oes1raD'e outcome: t>Ven the U011ffl d,sties woulcl gass 1' tney tasteOul 20 cm x. 9 cm xGcm(8>.. 3' l' 2', lnct1es}.a11,1covcr IIQIUtywlU1 J)kisuc wr~ Placl' IIILI llt\y In .t 100:mng lloY w,t11 au.~ IOWCI Ming

pinc.h OI rnoae G.'MI

me b.lSC!'. Pour 1•,m111 w.llet ineo 1t1e trJ~ unhl il IS tl~

srunt:1 h.1\1.'f OS me CUSlat(1 ,n me M Md IJn\:e IOr ,15111".lf~S Ot um• thr. CU"..Umt tS IUSt ~ COOi lO lOOrll l~llllCfO\Ule. 111(•11 Chll WI U\C' tl.'lll(Jt..'la!OI h>• lll lea:Sl 3 Jn.115 Onc.1,• Chlll(.J(I. PJSS me CU$!1M(I U110utjll (I line d1um 5tevt' WIID j) uowl

71

PEACH ICE

THICKENED AVOCADO OIL

12 g (X ozl caster lsupe,line) suge,

2.5 g t11an!um-suen91h leaf Qelaline 30 9 (1 oz>lsomau• e g c, oz I hquld glucose

12 ml ('/2 fl oz) bolleel water

750 g O lb 10 oz) 1ipe 901den queen or cllngstone peaehes 0.5 9 natural vitamin C powdet (non-acidic)* 40 m l tl¼ fl ot) lemon ;u;ce tiny i,!nch c l toble sa11 COmbine the sugar and ~led wate1 an e smal metal t,owt Chill to 4°C (390F)

Peel ttie oeacnes. natve and 1emove the s1ones. ano

,uce the fleSh using a cernr,lugal Juteer (the most common type availaDle at appliance s101es)wtth the vrtam1n Cpowcter placed 111 the J'J!Ct'·colection jug..Pas-s the jlJICe ttlrough a line sieve tlned Wilh two layelS of ml,l$WI (CheesetlOlh).

COmbme the iieach iuce with the lemon 1uIce. sugar syrup ancJ sail Check t he tJalance 0111avours - 1t sh:ces:. watet 111 ave,., small saucepan, combine the 1somalt. gluCOSe. water ano sa11over low flea! ancl st,, occas1onalfy untJI 1ne ,som.,11has cs.ssoivro. Remove rrom the heat and aCld t he honey. Pour the sy1uo ,nco a sta,n1ess•s1eetJUtJ and s et lhe JUQ over ve 1y kJv, heat. Add lhl? a vocacJO 011 10 lhe S'JJ\JO a lltt!e al a IHTie - as ycu would add 011 to eoo yolts to rnake mayoMalse - w hile DleOOJn,g w11n a nano-r,eto stick tirender un111comple[ety emutsdled. Genuy wh1sJ: In me vanilla seee1s ano gelaune Pass through a fine s1eve ano se, aSltle to coOI IO room 1empera1ur~.

AVOCADO OI L- H ONEY CUSTARD I quan1i1y hone~ c us1a,o (see page 71) I quantity lhlct:!Md avocado OIi (s ee abOve)

pindl of 1able- $.alt

72

Com01ne me chilled hOney cosiaca ano 1~ 1hlcl::enec1 avoc-aoo o,il in a me1Jlllm DO'\"il Whist unt•I comJ)k!tely

ama1qamatea. OOJUSt seasontng w11h salt 11neeued Pass m,otJS'l a hne sieve and c:h.111 fo, J nours befoie uS1ng

PUM PKIN HONEYCOMB

TO FINISH

SO v (l ~ oz) l . Friend 8 Co. 8eechwood Honeydew honey 50ml (1•; fl oz) water

2 tioneyc,ew melons. peell!-CI

small ~ n.ch or 1able sal1 'i 1.a,ge jap pumpkln (winter squash) (abOul 3 kg,/6 lb 12 oz) IQ g ('i oz) heeze--drJed apple pleces•

20 vrilc:I blac:kbeHiieS 109 (M oz} freez~dtied blackberries". crushed 50 g ( l•t ozl J. F,lend & Co. Beeehwood Hone)'1$ew hOney Cut tne noneyde, f't;l(;I• !Ill· ljl(,lf(• :1tuCl1f)t1.•ll (,411111• '/OIJlllll'I nr,u UM,

,n110 u,c CtllU::J ~IOC\: 10 llU!lll'fll c.11!'.C:OIDUlltllOO. Utt> II m(.'IOn

lhl' IHu•.Jiill'rtl ;,r11r! f~(.'4- :;t:#llllf•r (tvf'f lhr• lt,W,ll'fl ll!,1.jj"lf,ii

l),a11er or ll !;hJIOC?nC'CI l['a!!1)00tl to l("ln(J'I(• IIM• llilfl '/ ChOk:t_,

1Vlll lJ:1,u1:1h w1U1 Iii!• 1!4!11hll(jl' IViM•fl 111 " 1 l,,l}fha.1"111.nhtr•

,n lhC' modCl'l' Gc!nl.ly br(';J:t orr 12 IPnOC.'i Yl-llfJW INw(•~ ilM StOt~ •n lhe Ctlr~ stoct 11 a nvor 11'1(' 11()!,0l )"~ ICO(l~I

Of IJ l(1(lll11(• !)II :inrll.l-f\lf•

leaves arc r,u,Ole, lhOV WIii f'ICW 10 hf• IIIOiOlf"tl Olt ""'m ;1 1)811 or SO!iS()I$ o:: lhC l)Ulliie' i,r,ri~ tit(' Dltl• h lflf.'dit,11'• PlhCf' the leaves 1n u~ 1('111ge111t01 un111 r!C!tc(•d. Umin ,111(1 M t tl•y

on pal)C?4 IOWl'I Wll('ll •eady 10 ~

lll't;,

Place 1/'l(l (;100(' ;md f(l'fU::;.'.J)emmtlCl~l'Clflto

2 :.eo.,rm~ VilCuum P0UC11P'.> w1lll lllli• o rtLl'l &tor;► tlnd vac.uuro•pac;lt on tOO P{'( C.IQ:'.;.,,. o !iCN1m111 oou ~r-:,m unu lcnot'f - trir1... w1fttateot>OUt 1:;1TW1ut~.10, lll(•fj1Db(• 3 1 1 ~ an(l .iboul 30 maALIIN, lu, Ul(• )MIJ".:.'}f;l!ffl 31helll;llo~

wnrn,~ac,y, ltftlCM: 1,om lh!:!Jj•,'.)rftl"f ant,

c;:QOI to1oom 1c-ml)(!f.itu,(.• inmco.."tl')!.

Wntn 1eMy lo ~NY{•, l\,,J\l(o C,t.(.fl qlr.,oe Vou cUe merckJl' liyg1ene w a$ 1~ most illl)Ortool Pe~I

concerned 'll"s my w;s,, or 1he h,gtw,ay Wilen y(lll acSdless me you Cal me Chel V./nt?O I bil.lk. Ofdil?IS ell )'OU, ','tlU respona. "Chf!I, OUICht>I.'"

OI his 8111,sh m1Mo1y1r;:,1mng, Ue 11uewmy ,rnseett/'1,"IC.C'lO

Tt~se SU1CI Ol(ler men nao U~le(f llom r>attsOI me ()'®e v11In r~IuIant tr..0.I,oos ra, gu~aler .ino rno,e

l;ll!;OQl1neo u,an anym1r1g Hew zeaIanoe1~ hoO evc-r seen lhiPf PfOOOOly resentl;'C1 that 1ney •110ufl(:1 uo 1n a counuy w1m :'I lim.1(.>(I rooa Cul[ure Iha! 01 me llt'lle und('(Y,]IUOO CtMP:1!.

C1aC•l)hnt• 111 1alti., latte ano !.mell now you

,rutJWI llll;iq111e :, IOf(>!'.1 to w~r• - or decay. teaci barrel (rs anyane actually t>vy1ng lhls breaO?) 12.30 pm Clean me t>akefy. rrs nea1ty lfflpos.siale to 9et u,e flOul oU e~rytnw,g. 11 seems 10 sit In the a.,, In my eyes. fn my ears, PJ'eftWllere.

1pm Lea~-e me Datery. VOuen neve, 10 1etu,n Keep fetornwig until I get the sack alter only three months. we we,e reciwred 10 01oouce 2,000 01eaa rOlts an h0ur and 1 iust couton1 iteep u-p.

I only lasled a lew monuis but it was ine ilegln:Mg oe1ng excep1,ona11yoaoa1 mating

01 my ldetong caree, a1

D1eao n wasn't unltl a year or so ago, after a u,p 10 France. tnat I coorrontt>d my clemons and ltnall')' began 10 proctvc:e a leaf I was prouo ~

Cheffing has historically been a haven for the discarded and disenfranchised ofsocie1v. and the hospirn li111 industry has 1ypically al lowed all 1hese types of cha r:1cters a place 10 be themselves. to have a sense or worth- en•n m the lowlie~t or 1·es1m1ran1s. Restaurant X was my first experience of the pirate-like crew or a ki1chcn. The reswurant aurac1ed a bunch of los1 sou ls from ex1remely differen1 backgrounds. bu1 we ended up as a family in 1he small confined space of the ki1chen. surviv ing 1he condi1ions and pressures ofsen·ice 1hat would make the average person buckle al the knees. It's what bound us 10ge1her. I'm sure every chef has their own Restaurant X.

restaurant x My fltSt $lgtlrf•cant Job OUl or Polytech was at The Ptymoulh hOCel in New leaiano as a comm1s cner - the IQl.•,est ,ung 1n a t ,tenen ongatte rne ptymouth IS where I met my wtle, Natalia, ,·mo was worlt:tng at the hCMel receot10n We've Deen tog,etner e,ver since In 1999 Nataka and I decided to move 10

\'teHmgtoo. but lirst we neeoea ,obs I naa been offetea a ui.a1 at one cl the better seafOOd resIauranIs en Ine cIIy - Iet'S cau 1l ~estaurant x I really \'fantl?d tne JOI> but Ille 111a1 oeoan at 730 am ana my snail at lhe Ptymoucn hOtel didn't llrusti un;111130 trte rugn1 oelore SO v'1! ooth Otove 1nrough lhe nignt ano Slept 1estleSsty in me car 001s1de lhe ,es1auran1. 1aia an e1anteen-no-.i1 u,al anct arterwards I sat Clown ,, 111 one ol 1nenecKI cnefs whO said ma lut:.e\va,m tone. ·rm r.cit a:i tn.s; rmoresseo. ~·. e·11 gel baCIC 10 you.· 11nougnt g1e-a:. ra otr1en au tnts way and lallea 10 get ine ib~.•,F.'f'" tnie rK1a.warn cared tr.e neict oay anCI IOICI me ru f)O'. tne oosrtl()f'I i:.nc, so oel)an my ,nauc11on 10 the craz ~.t! ana lOO!P-st Dloee l'\/e ever v10ric:eo P:es:;,u,an; X ,.,as IOC.ateo on an OICI wnarl 1n an r,,::ei· .cw ic..ng 11"\o: ,•, as once a vJQOI s101e PartS ot tne , ...,"f :P- M !he- re-s.tau,¥11 .·,em Opet"I ano you cou10 ga,n ...-..i:1-~.,. ·-:i •r-.,. .,,a!E-1" In,'> iS .-,ht-fe a du$tef ot Welltngton'S

ra,"1(--....,,CUM~f._..fl 1111asac010nyol010e1men • '.'V, -..:-~

•ri•• r:r1 ar,o !,l"{>DltlQ on tnc- roci:.S tne--1 weie

Clnnt: ll'lttt metl'tylaleo sp1111s a,no yen a1 us - aemano1ng ltlat we Drane] mem water to d1lo1e 11 w11n. We'd 1egularly leed mem. 11sn ·n· cn1PS was 1ne11 tavou1,te A famlly ol twetve stray cals lived betl·lld ll'lie ,estaurant 100 me neao ~ Ine caI l.am1ly was c:aneo 8ooIsy anCI SM WOUid come up lO lhe bat.I: Slep cl the kAtChen and meow until someone gave ne1 some hsti 11,m. wh1cn She wolAO a,ag oU 10 feed the otneis, Our molley 1c,1chen ere..., had lhl!'ir smoto bleat.s out l>aek as well ana when you combine the coots. me calS and the homeless. 1t was quite an eye-•ooenmg signt for ()\JeslS oass,ng Dy. me cats and nomell!"Ss men were genetalty pretty haImiess. A1th0u(Jtl there was one occaSIOl"I wnen one of che hOmetess men suayeo into tne kitchen e1unoo a t1usy lunch seMce.111eaia a cackle Detuna me ano as 111.Wned ne tungecl ror my t>ooiog tnile oo the bench. I 1nsunc1,vety

p,nnec:1 down his wust JUSI 1n time. Tm gonna Cut yOu l)Oy,' he cac1tIeo. h1gn on metn, I'd neve, been .., a sltuanon hke

1ha1 t1er01e aoCI II was as tl my bOOV'S natural reUexes tool:: ~r to pro1ec1 1lSetl I ye11eo at him 10 cuop ttie 1i:n1le and rte cont1nueaek alter lllal n19lll. Jason and I Slltl ,etive and laUQh abOut thOse c1aey days ltie(e wl?l'e 1.r1es When the encJre IJllgode wos so stoned (eKC.ept lo, Ptetre and me) that they could hardl~ dO se,w:e. And 11 seemed. ot times, th.al Remnuranl X s,in,pty ottlac:U!d see01I for 3 m1nutes. Remove ho,n tile

wa1e, and o0en the ba9s ~ace the peppeIs ,n a bowl and season wen with salt

BLACK RUSSIAN TOMATOES 12 blaek Russian cheuy tomatoe$ 6 mecf,um tilatk. Russian tomatoes Snno a meGIUffl saucepan of water lo me boil. Place the cnerry tomatoeslnto lhe boilM'IO walet (Of s Second$. tnen remove ancl retresn tor I minute ma bowl of Iced water. Usmg a small u.11n.,no kC'life, peel each cl'lerry 1oma1O w11/lOU1 matting the riesn.cove1 and set aside al room temperature unul needed. FOwde-r ComtMl\e tl\e walnu1 anr .--1;:t111 .m11•1,1111tl11J'jl,ll)l't 14 ■ .11·1»t•tlr', lllllfotl10ll i ll U1l1RU>..... ,,11 l ,tUIJl•t'(l ,lllll lJ01 l111• 1111h II W,1', ,1 t1t11 •,1•'1 ► 14j ► ,r,l •,111111 ll":llll('Cl 111,ll M.11~ """'''' tltilll 111•;11,,,1i-.rn::c111n.i,1hh• h ll ('Vl'lYlllln11 l~••li•tll,Ukli'tl Ult• lhUIIJUIJh ,..ol)llfl i1JIIJ OI IIIIJh'llll'tll', ,111111111• W 1y Hll-y

IC-,,(J(!rt.;I lhltllK)h tu-; ;'.lCh0 1I'", \

,-,:,,tl"h.101.,1 tfit'fll.i'.;11(1(.1 ,r-,h,11111 .... ,.,.., ...... ,. •• h.t1ull••u••••11•-. t'JI I •J1.11111

0

ft"IT\o)ll l'(kl II IU ,Ill\,' \I01ot.C lllll'l(h 1t1•1-:..l,..t1tlft-. kit l~"''tll' lt.• V. . . .ll11•H11•!«•,l 1111t11• ld1 l"'llf'Yl't111111U*t11 .-.\llch,'fl. l'Yl'lylhll"W1, lt•.r,m1111Jt.l'.. II rlUI(.....

a ~{f'f,I'/ r,•...,,IJl'/P II ,,111• U11Ji•• t1har1ner crol>.

l lc mon 1 lilre {35 fl oz/11 cu1ml cold wrue,

chlllcd (sec- c1us1nceans• )

4'I ml QJO~ 5t!C'CI OIi

8 ltHQ(! (JIOb~ RIIICIHlkC!r.

lemon ju.C(!, Willie wine vUU~ODf and IOtlle SOit, 10 IOSIC Cu1 II~ M:>lllCln Ml 11n1, hfld !lQlN:'{•11• lhfl JUICf• lrllll II~ W,ll(lt

Wtwn ready 10 !il>fl/C, \:in Ull.' Cll)O lly ln!'".!l

ll"!'M'I, nrr• llllilllt.", 1114"/ WII IIPl'rl 1U 1)1'• tn11Wt\f'tl 1tll Y/1111 o1 IJ.lll

rnov vaiy O hllle efat10nil relflgerator encl we t\80 an etecUCtan wue 1110 the baclc at 1nt restaurant NeAt we filleel a compu1er1seewe orctes that a good batbecue doesnl do anything - 111ust eic,sts. to ,est II t he ribs a•e cenc3er. lnsett a forl:: into tile thlCJ;est oart ano 11 1t glws away eas,ly. then irs ready RefflO\•e the t1bs from the smoker. cover with 1011and rest tn

a wa1m QI.ace lor 20 minutes 0er01e Shen) and P01Uonlng,

l'.16

25 g (1 oz) Muuay River salt llalles

food-~•ade sswduSI "-. rot smoltlng The wine tnWStry d1SCc1td:S 1nciusanos ol used 11andmade oak DaHelS each year as each 11me a barrel ,s f llea its abllr\y to navour a wine 1:S alffllnlshecl. rrn not sugg6tlllQ that my reooe aoove rs the solution 10 the prOOlem but

it's iust a s1mp1e way of mal::tng use of somethlno that 1snot very hight:,, valued. AnCI 11makes a neee a1tem a11ve lOe oa•Clen plamer. In a smalll bOwl. soak: lhe oak Shavings w11n the wine to, 2 nou,s, 1henguncJ tnto a pa,ste using a mortai and pestle. C(ll'r'lbl,n,e Wl(h tne sail afl(I genlly $1il Uytng OOl 10 tMeak up I.he salt riat:es. Place iO a small s1ainless-steel 00Y'Jl. l1Qht a cOltl smo\e,,* uSW'lg t he sawdust. pt.ace the bOwl ,nslde ancJ smoli::e 11\£> mhuure at 2°C (360f) 101 4S minutes. Speac:J the rr11xture on a c:,ehyd,ato, ,act and place In a IOOd Qon ol the hOrsetadistl-aQQte on me left sltle or {'atl'l plate. Place 1he plctled cucumbef oo the rfQt'lt side. Place u..e e1,11anct OIUl!f aeave-s over thjs. Place a rtll l)OtUon on uie hofseraerore using. vmeo ,ea.dy to sewe.oc,en lhe bag and Quaiite, 1necucumbers reng1nways. Store ,n lhe p!ckllno liQuid until needealmleaVNDndSl lllts

30ml (I fl o:z:} Hc.-1hy8oytu1;1nd th..n ms.ouce

40 tiny lemon b.wn IHY'5

IS ml (''t II OZ) daShi vinegar taibleH11. 10 I.Kil!

8 piects broccollfU stem. peeteel fewdJops or e:x1ra woinoliveoll

2 9C • ozl finely 91ound ,ice lloor lstt Noltsl

table sail. to laste

1-tf..t t~s;toet to 7'0'C llSEr'FI AoC1 the l:etc) ~ lemon balm ..,.-,rus,e to, IS minutes Pass ll1e S-lock thlOUQh a sieve

Plaee the IObslef potl\onS tn LhecetlUe of l"ath00wl

ln.'011,,tnn-.istinl~h)llllOaclean~an.ackl

1eaves.Oressl~OIOCCOll'IIS1emw1thtl'leOdanellaoles<

1,_, r..o, s.lUCt ano vineg.,, 311d cnect. lhl" se3!lO"Mng. TO\:e

ano Q/ace on 1opOf the lol>Sler.Pour me not cn.ctt"rHemon

~ l,d oi ,,_. !.:('a'iQl'lt>Ci !:tQci. one1 twtOO 10 a simmer~ a ~.1tf.' ~ s . l ~•~

I;, J """4'

wni~ 1n me ,1ce11our arK.1 SltM'll'1

P-..ss lflfOUQh a line sieve D3d: •uo lhe

NI !QI.L Jim ~

11'/ 'hf\l!,t urc_ll Yef'J IIC)l1tl'/ lh,Ckene,d

NDTlS ",.1m,~•·tll~tll,IIP40.DC,'IC{•2009(7DZ)llt,>Sh

Spfinkll" wtth lhe tia,n SW.l end scatter the rice. then Chect the weight - yau need 125 g (4:.4 oz). so mince a bH mo:e if necessary. Finely dice 1ne pork baek fat Combine the oniOtl. rice, po1k fat and rema1nlil(I ingredients weu ano place tn a mechum vacuum PoUch aoo vacwm-pact on 100 PCf cen1. ror 40seconels Sl a chamber vacuum sea1er• , PiaCe tne bag In a cifculatlng watet bath (01' saucepan filed w11h water)

heated to 100c 11saaF) and leave for 15-20minutes. cheeking and moving 11,e ffflXlure around at 5·•mlnute intervals. Once set. Chill tn iced watl't'. lb!move ffom 1ne bag sod pu,ee fn an uorWjltil blender unh1 very smooeh Relflgerate until needeOI-,

r-r' ¥,m 1-o111◄ • {.w;-"'•1f~Rf.fr,.n t~lM(Aotlt111r-lO C~

:,~t!J t ,tP'fNl.alit',1,tn•.t. l~fJl'Jh':'.alllJ•&:, .-..&nw-..,t

12 dun" SOll"lach leavts 12 ..,,._, on10n l!Owef~ 12 S,pfl{I~ WIIO fennel

Ptac~ 2 Ol"-C~ o1 ,ec ~on on eacn CAatt Plice tne wrw -:.pnach lfoffl':S. o,-.on ur,1Jff!:; and tennE'f on me meton. Platt

a O(-:;";l~tl!,CJOQn of o,,/!. blOOOWff l"le(l 10 lM tnelQn ano p&aC'! 100 oor~ 1a.1 on 100 ol t tlJ!; FJ01!ioll w11t1 a teaSDOQ(I 01

the pictlf:O on,on ouree 101ne Sl[Je

g 0

z

pig jowl. raw bug, radicchio heart SERVES,, : YOU WILi.NEED TO BECINTHIS IU·:CIPF.2 OAYS AHl':AO

What happens to all of the outer leaves of vege tables? Whe n I buy a lettuce or cabbage at a greengrocer's I ofte n think where is Lhe res t of it? It's as if the lettuce magically grew like that out in the field. with no green outer leaves. When I buy a vegetable 1want the whole plant. Even the roots. If we a re creative in our cooking. we can find a delicious way of using eve1y single part of the plant - I believe this will bean important part oft he future of food. It takes so much energy a nd hard work togrowourproduceand righl now we are was ling large volumes of edible ingredients. For me Lhe mosl delicious pa rt of a cauliflower is the s talk - peel away the tough outer skin and a tender. juicy and crisp interior is revealed. It's an uncomfo1·table fact that there is far too much food wastage in our society. I don't think we will have that luxury in the future. Here in this dish I use rad icchio hearts but I also juice the outer leaves of the radicchio.

PIG JOWL

BUL.L KELP EMULSION

JOO g (3½oz) sea salt flokes 50 ml ( I!: II Ol) COld•p1essecs nght muStard Oil

s ltee•range egg yolks 5 g (:c oz) bull kelp powt1e1 (set note) 15 ml (¼ II OZ) d.aShi vtnegar 10 ml (X fl oz) white soy

t 9 I Yi.f oz) rnus1are1 s.eeds 3 whole cloves 2 flt>e·filn~ Bcl~Sh!CC' pkJ ;owts (abO\JI 1.2 kg/2 lb ID oz each}

146

20 ml p; fl oz) water ID ml 0~ II OZ) grape seed otl I o (:,.. oz) caste, (superfine) sugar table son, to taste

1n a b()l.•A combine the salt, mustard 011, musrn1d seeos anel cloves and m1:w: we:11 Place lhe JOwts w, a Shallow disn and soon~le tne salt m1xtu1e evenly on bOtn StGeS Covc!r and ,er11ger-a1e tor II nou,s. P,ehea1 a CotT'IOIOYen• to 78°C ()72°~) on steam~Dake. wasn u,e sa11 m,xture elf the ,1owrs: in cOICf wa1e, ano 0a1 dr~• Place in a vacuum oouch ana vacuum•i:,ac:lc: on too oer cent 1n a Chamt>et vacoum seaiet• . Place ,n 1111, Combioven anc steam-oate 1cw II 1)01.JrSo, um11 tender.

A.ace 1r.e egg yolk.sin a stT\311vacuum OOUCh and vacuum· pact on 100 per cem lor 25 seconds 1n a chambcf vacuum sealee•. Place the ba,g 1n a c,,eu1a1sng wa1e1 oam (or a sauceoan hlled with water) nealed to GS°C (MSof) and leave for 2 nours Remove the yoa::s r,om lllr? Dil(I ana i:,i.xe "'an

Coor-in thebaQ

upoght blender AOd 100 ,ernaui,ng IOQU!dien1s. CXC41Pt

R:emo•Je me ,anls rrom me bag ana reserve l he COOklrM) t!QlJOr for la ter \ 'lt()e eaeh t()'tll c::t,y Wllh lla:Def cc,.•,el

t ne sart, and blend un111smoo1h, Chect: u,e ~a~1ng tf necessaiy. aaa a lluJe s.,.u Pass 1rvoug1, a hne sJl>\te illl(J

ltim orr ine stem ano 1r-ie maJOf•ty 01 1a1 ana 001110n each

cove1 Wjtfl ii 04ece of Da1'lng paper 10 Dfevent u ~~"' form.i19

lt'ltO i lnlCk Sl pi1nch ol oolural vitamin C pcwde, (non-acidic)• pinch ol caste, (superllne) SUQ.Jr pio 1owl cooking liquor (rese"1ed from OllPOSite} 60 ml {2 II ozl' Lcup) waie, 30 ml (I n oz) ve,Jus 5 ml (Y. 11 o:t) lemon Juice

2 Uve taIces Entrance bugS. chilled (see crustaceans•)

table salt. 10 taste 1n tri.s oart ot the 1eooe thefe are two dis1,na1eons. F,rst tS aO:stdl.ation of the outer leaves of u,e radk:chio and the second d1stllait0n IS of tne rad1cchio hearts 1n the pig JOWi bQuOt.

FOi tne hrst t11st11taoon. ,emove an tne ou1er leaves rrom 1ne rathechro. so you are only left with the ve1y small ttearcs Set aside o,e hearts Set up a twln-gea, ,uieef (wt\eatgrass style) ana put the ~1amm c powde, ,n 1he,u1C-e-couect1on Jua to helP

I lime 5 ml (¼ fl OZ) Qf.Jpe seed ~I

When ready to hnlstl 1he dish. k.11t lhe buQS as humanely 3S possaole b)' sw1llly cuuing tlvOUQh lhe head Wllh 3

snarp chef's kmle. Plll'lge the bugs lf\lO DOllll'IQ wa1e, fo, 5 seconds. tnen cllaln Dn a tray. 8131'1Chrng allows Ille fleSh 10 t>e 1emoved ,om the shell easily. Separate the 1a11 rrom me heac:J, SoVlng the neaas lo, anotner use. HOICI the 1a11 between )'Ol.lt nands. betly StcJe 1.11). and II~ s10eways to b1ea1i: the shell rr.·rav from 1he tail meat. Remove 1rie dtg,estwe tract and Shee 1ne 1a11 mPat 1ra nail lengtl'\\vayS.. Ffnety o,ace a bttltt lime lest on the cvt preces of bug meat. Cut 1ne hme 1n tialr and aoo a few mops of " me fl.,IICe ak>ng with a IIUle sa11and 011 co the meat

TO FINISH

10 stop the JUite tuinlno brown. Jun:e tne leaves Place cne Juice ltllO a 3 bue UOS noz) capaoty

12 p1eces w1kl sea lettuce

distillat,on l~Sk ana agae. Finish w11n a rew cuopso1 cash! 1J1negar

0

"§ z

147

n:,: >

~

: 9S,. D'4te 1n a 101ary eval>OfaU>• ". set 01e water bath tf!T'C..a.ra1.;.a to 40°C (Kl4Clf) af'¥1 the coo&mo 1emoera1uce to

"..,

·~-C{-13-F). Sfl trlli."fQ.!81'9JO','lfl.qoorwllbe

,. •.. ~ •, so tr'fldJ~l".c-Pdmoresa11 ,.,..,.. ..lC, 10 '11\o'P. tu' eacnN>att .nnau ana sear.

UIOPtJ:n

&f"ICJlfl0f• rc.. 1tv.ngc,.111lo,10seconos

l:

beef. seagrass. cabbage stems BI.ACK POTATO 160ml (51' fl oz) dark scr, sauc@ (not too salty) ISOml{Slloz)wat~

SN ~ It

3gt¼.oz)t1rienlto 2SQ(lo:)cast~t(superrine)StJ9M ·-- · ·-· 2 la,ge de-sifec potatoes.. cul Into elgl'lt a cm x I cm w

{314:' x lHnch)b.itons

·· ~'

• •· -

600 g (I lbSoz) beef btvelte (Ste Not~). trlrnmld

na~ to taste -

-

Remove 1t.e beef from the reftlge(ator and ptace In a wwm place for I hOul' 1>er0y KOile vlhO had oeen very ill with Qastro, Wf subseQuerM.ly oat it as we-U. 1v,as O'Mng back 1rom the nosol1a1, CtOOJi:: as a 00g. a, 6amanc1 l)UBedover l0 Duy the paDef. I fell too s,ct to 1eae1. but whenl the

s.a.-,

score - 16120 - 1 ll'ld(laQCCI a Sm.JI sfl'llle, It was a ~reat score, The gooo ,e,.,,ew was e big ldt IOI tJU'SMless but the k'tflw; Of~ guestS didn't last ano befCNe IQng we were n o~e sua11s agarn. By th,.$ cime I'd t>e'jlun 10 !~ more conhd.eni v.-.th my cootrng but was iruty lrusttaiea IMl I OOUk:lt'l't progress with the de,.-e10pmen1 oC mv DeCSOl'\B:I st~ l.rster. I was awa1e or tne large t itchens 01 Eu,~ and tried rell:ance s1ag.iei,,es (a cook 01 chel who YIOl'b for lree al a ,esc.turar,I)

°"

tnat allt>le $311.and llestil)' ground whit!! pepper, lo lasle

C"111tJ,ne ano1 u,e ,ngr~1t::1ms111 a tKJwl anam1, \\elt Place tfli' conitnt$ al me L'Dlo\ I 1:r1 a small ,-acuum PQUCn and , -. ;a,uttt-Dat::l. on 100 pe, C'Pnt fo, J O SKOtldS ,n a chamner ,-acuum stt.l~ .. Plaoe 1~ oag in 0011.ng \',att?r a.no coo~ 10, Jt'C~•t $ m nuli?'S Of Ut'lhl Ule ouma.\in 1$ 11?1'\Cli?I

Heat 111e 011111 a aeeo,s,deo sauce-can 10 teoi:c l32v'q suce 1nc onion w-uo tour 5i mm ( • ni:n} t11rc,. t"'1QS. Comc1ne U".e starcnes ano s2ason ,., th a 0.n.ct1 ot S3 t Oip me croon ungs into tne -., at~ ano sria~e ~tl m2 t\.C'.PSS.. Oreage tr.e anian rings 1n tN starell m,, 1ure a:nct def P·lf) !Of 1 m ntJT.eS ~I unt,1 t.gti.tt>· QO'd.en aM t:11SO

Oran on paoer 1.0\'.t'I JrtC season,•• tn sa.t

~,~n reati) ta se~e. rerno..e toe oumplcin from t~P ttag ano n.alve eacn piece length\, a,,.s

TO FINISH B l;,rge spngs hcouce teal

CELERY

P"..aet a ::mu11 c esser1spoon of tne smo~ a aeeuoo1 Ct1H:'i? 111

1 stan. celery

ttteceoueo! eacncitati? ta-. ac, &eo1 pumo, 1n aetoss mat

5 ml 1 • II DZ) 91"'pe see(] all

P'lar2 a p Q:i?c:n bl:ea~t. ;;.\ ,n s:,ae CK!\-.n. oneacn P'.a:e ano u,eo a Daton of c e El)' f l":ISTI ..-. .m tne or:i0n 1tnQS. t CCtf·C? 1c-a, ano a .,we '1t u,e- o,ne, on on sauc~

ut!te salt, to tasce

t~w drops or lemon 1u1ce

Cu~twS5.::m,~5mmi~ , s.

~

1ncMDJ.ton.suom

; ~ ..~=?1". ~JU I\JSff'ld.l\aCu1.IITICOUCh\\ tntnl?CI

.;"IC\X~.._.,., ~~... onl!Xloerc.?n:1013b secc1'f0s n.1 , ...a_,W._Auun' Sl?.1-!?r" ,\ T":i:!'I ·'I!~ tC' s:.:

"e. e'J."\th the 03Q ,n a s.au:eoan

... co; ..-9 \,.:;:.: •11, ~ sec:"1'CS ~ecrnO'lii from ;ne tag ano

1S7

se.u ~- ..... ·11 • n e s.a. 1 .r,i.1 !,::1n,,,••,n

z

a::;

I am of'lOOO IOl(IOIICm 10 ll'C Wl'St(!fn WOl'ld now 0\81

welr d nod \!Ply nlllucnt. 11 o,"'991u11l(l(J tough aM we didn't flOVC enough roou - nri lhl'V 111t1 an me Great Ol'r)r(IS.."jlOf'I, lnr exomple QI COi.Ji!,() wf''tl h."1¥(\ 10 tC'd!ilm lllOSll pr9ChCC!S. but my lc,ar i, lh.11 UK'tll will 001 be onyom:o IC-ft whO tnOW5 00001 lhem. My 000 10LJ(ll'I{ n,e now 10 gntlM?'f 91~111:Sh - (fiUS5elS. PIC')t!1. nhHlf)l'VI an,J l)ld\lM - Ond 11\Cf'II~ ""'°'-"1 dive for

c,ayh.'lll WI! WOUid olwayn pet 1)Clu1cs - p1{1(1orn1noooy C)t."IG):O(V(!('f;, wlltl ,:;1mwt)l>lr1CO (wt,l('J\ Ot(' VCIY lal(l lfl H(IW /(•,l l,11'1(1 Oul lnl'y' QIICW In OUI lc.-QIOO) ano Omf)('S that llaO ~n1;,11ow lountl u-...i wny to our faun ond Qtl'W wlikl.

we ul'-N,l'f'. tt\lw Wf\o.'M plon1c \VP. cou1indS anci

l"IOUlll!.lWs OU1 solt Shctte,s and svstains wlkJhte: p,otects suearns. wetiondS and coast~ and abso.bS catbOn dioxide onr.l cmllS o:cyocn. the conllnuecl OOplcUon and lleSUUCIIOf'IOI nnt.lwvcgl'latlonlsa p1lma1ycauseof Lancl OOQ!OdDlion nMi deellninQ watQf CllJallly and Is the biQoest lactOf of tMogt! Uy 1cm0Y1no the edible wretts ll'IDI causo Mli\le ~--eoetallon 1oss. lhis COUid be wl'IC1e we a~~ con act ond make o difference, People l'l«'O ID CDlt?-. I've Olien sald UUM. I IIOtfe naluce lo, somctlllno UIOI I W.lf1 Of f{l(iofre. I'll tote Obrooch QI S4'lill.JSl1 bUl . , re1urn l'I IC!DICIYC that OIOSOC bag ty,OQ ~Wldef u~ Sll!tlb. llll?iC nrods to be ll'ilt e ~-

160

ORIGIN

§I

CHAPTf:RTWO INTOTHEWILD

vea l longue. vanilla. myrl us, lel luce M kVf.~ '· VOUWIIJ,m:Y.1 1TORt'A:m1 111:,. 101.c11•1-: I IJAY A llt'.AI)

f.'}1cr• 1lw 1nr~1'-11n1 un1t-d way of'1hinking. NPVCI'~ grtlQ mvm."' Rut·, 0/) rflLl'ilOUI "!PPrl'l 2 U I • fU) &Qfl3ntfr-f ~t'IKI~

350 ml f1? 11 QI) wti.l(> Wifll' ?IIUf'•iC/0 fl Q/ )W:llN 1.11:Mco:.a•

,o, "ln1t..►.mo

Vll'l04l' lr!"r.h :11. m:llll'tJ 100t] UOl'lt t.'d j(I wme ,

IOI 30 ni,,nulf"L IOI 1.r'!lCllclflfJ

Il l(+ •;.tot' Ofld PC-Cl

1111 mr, •.,., (/IHI lllr• IOflllUf• i!nrl p;:1",,•, It~ :.lod u11uurin ,J

r.11r- ....,...... U1~.;lflllllll rtM· ".(111(l', JilC)IJf Ill(> :;,!()Cl' O'lltf

mr

!'11111tK' fJflll (,,'Jllfjl H) 1110m (f•lllJM"·WhlU'. thPU fl..Otj flf~~ (o r

t;11r.1,u11•t0f11,ur- 1nlfl r111n ;,cm(t; 1ne111 11uctpi,ece=; Y/t11•n 11•;1dylO 'rl"IVO,ltf)ln lt llnt ~,fllUH.'1• W Iiii

lfJI• c:h1m;o:,1.i111rJ 'llhl'1111111· c:r",U:.Qlli Clll'~ 1kr1111 A ()I.I, a1 h 111111;11•!', lf/lfrltrtt U'IC IOOCJUI~ rion, UM• ',fllr~4◄, •,l•,1',()l'IWIHI :,wt ;intl ou.-•·.:;.w1lh~.omoor Irie lfit,lr~ w111t• tli',1 t..1CIOl1 S(1f1-t• lflWflt'd11J1PI)'

163

MULLED WINE DISTILLATION

PARSNIP CREAM

60 g (2lC oz:) easier {superfine) sugar

60 g (2li oz) unsalted o uner

750 ml (26 fl oz/3 cups) red wine

200 g (7 oz) parsnip, co,ed and stieed

2 g (~•.. oz) s trip ol lemon peel. white pith removed

table satl. 10 taste

4 t;i o, oz) SIIIP ol manaa,ln peel. wnite pith femoved

1-40 m l (4~ U OZ) m ilk

I suu anise I fresh bay rear wl'W>le cloves ½ nulm ~ . c rushed usim;J a mortar ancs pestM! I small cinnamon Quill. cruShed 4

Place an of the 1noreoients

in a

medium saucepan and warm

~ law heat until the sugar l\as d1sS01vecl. Continue 10

In a small saucepan over lo w heat melt the tn,.met.Add the p&fsnIp and a l)incn ol salt ancl sweat for 20 minutes w1UlOU1 COIOUf&nQ.. ACfCI the milt and simmet uno1 tile oarsnIp Is tender. Checl: the seasonil'W). Blend in an 1,1prignt Oleooer fo, 5 minutes. ?ass 11\fovgt, a hne sreve and chect the consistency and seasonlng.. PCM Into an 81tllQl'\t con.tainer and cover w111l

bak•no paper 10 Qle','efll a stln rorm.ng.

gen1Iy wa,m fo, 20 minutes 10 infuse. Pass U'u ough a sieve 1/nee(alu,e to 35°C (95flFJ and u-e cool!og 1empe,a1u1e to -2QOC (-411f), set the ro101lon speed 10 50 RPM anc:J distil a.I fu11 vacuum ro, 1~ hOufs (Ol'P(!nellng on the suengll\ Of lhC vacu~l or unitsa Ulick. ay1up 10,ms.Ahematively. 3'11lOoQh it wdl not achieve 1hQ same result, you coold reduce me JUIC(' in D small saucepan Until a lhlck Sy(Up IOlrn6. S101e ln lfle ,et,,ge,a1.or unc• neeoed, ~ brfng la ,oom temperaiure

CIDER 6 x 375 ml (13 II oz/I¼ cup} bottles or cider

168

Mee the 8VPles ercJ pass lhH>ugti a Sieve lifnec:J wllh muslin

anc:t g1a1e us,no a coaase·t>l&Cfe M1croplBOe'* . Mi)I with the h0tse,ad1s11 onc1 caffot leal. Ptace In an a1rngnc contal!lef

20 mt (~. II oz) ilpple cider vlneQar

agot aoa• powder (seaweed (IXl 1act1•

before US1ng.

fhrs 1~100 malces cons1defably rnore than you neeo but

thm Is thlcnlt. aoc, some of the soa1:eo wooo. Once 11 tS smot.,rw;i well. add 1he 1on9ue ano smoke IOI 4 m nules Remove 1ne loogue from the ~ec-. season w1tn sail ano aress with 1he tomaio waIer vInaqeue. Setve IIT\ffle 10mato waret (1ese1ved from 1oma1oes. opposite)

250 g (9 oz) shelled wenwooo Wal'41ce wulnuts•. blinched and peeled tooJe salt to taste 140 ml [4½ fl ozl lcect water 70 g f21', oz) Wellwooct war1ace colcS•Pf@SseCI walnut 011•

SO mlt1 1: 11oz) hullye11tra vlroio ollveoO 10ml r 111 ozl red win.evflegar

20 ml(', n oz) white bafsamlc vineoar 1able salt and cas1e, tsuperl1ne) suga,. 101astt (optional)

7 ml ( 1: II oz) whi te batsamic vinega,

15 ml (IS II OZ) DPP6e Cl4jl?f vinegar

Combine all of lne ingredients and mix weH.Adet a p1nCh of salt ano a kttle suga, ,r necessary. Set aSICle, CoYeted. at room 1empera1ure unlll reqU1reo.

BEEF 150 g 15h oz> W&gyu biti.ieue (see Nole) -Sea salt flae!i, 10 1as1e

30 ml (I fl oz) oon•·GMcanola oil*. for searing

AelTIDYf? tne oeet rrom !he relrigiracor aoo ~e in a warm olace fOf I nour ber01e coot11"1Q, Thls wmBid 1n 1he even ccotuig or Ule meat Once all the athet etements are complete. p,el\eat U1e aven 10 IIOOC f225°FIGas ~i).Season 1ne Deel WlO, salt ana seal an a 1\01 fry1no pan w1tn Che oil until bfovmed. Ptace the oeef on a wire ,act and roast ro 8-10 minur.es

or untll tn201um•ia•e (Of an intemaJ ternpetature or SS-58,.CJ131-13:3eFJ.Remove rrom the oven anCI 1esl 1n a warm place tor 10 mi:nutes. NOTE.: Beef bavette can be cul from the s!Cfrt m llant.

FRIED ONION SOO m1117 fl oz/2 cups) non-GM c;mola 0111*. lor Cleep•ltying 1 smar1onll0l1 lib&e ~an. 10 taste

r ' d ~~~ Slfl.Cetl;,f\ V11lh me ()Ill ana heat 10 16S'C

•~n, ;,l"'✓-t-