La Cucina: The Regional Cooking of Italy 9780847831470, 0847831477

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_ w ^ ACCADEMIA

ITALIAKA ^

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DELLA CUCI1TA THE ITALIAN ACADEMY OF CUISINE

THE

REGIONAL COOKING OF ITAL THE essential source with 2,000 AUTHENTIC RECIPES

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Rizzoli

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ACCADEMIA ITALIAN A DELLA

C

U

CINA

Accademia

Italiana della

The

Academy of Cuisine

Italian

Cucina

Via NapoTorriani 31, 20124 Milano President:

GIOVANNI BALLARINI

Coordination and supervision: PAOLO PETRONI

The Accademia Italiana to

all its

delegates

della

Cucina would

and members

like to offer

for the research

acknowledgment

and editing of the

recipes.

FOR THE ENGLISH-LANGUAGE EDITION: Translator:

JAY HYAMS

Typesetter: TINA

Designer: ERICA

HENDERSON

HEITMAN-FORD /v- MU CCA DESIGN

Copyeditor: SARA Editor:

NEWBERRY

CHRISTOPHER STEIGHNER

Assistant Editor:

J0N0 JAR RETT

Translation and typesetting coordinated

The

byLIBRISOURCE

publisher wishes to gratefully acknowledge for his invaluable services as a consultant

Originally published in the Italian language as

text.

La Cucina

del Bel Paese,

© Copyright by Bolis Edizioni - Azzano San Paolo First published in the

# RIZZOLI

INC.

FRED PLOTKIN

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United States of America

in

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(BG).

2009

INC.

300 PARK AVENUE SOUTH, NEW YORK, NY 10010 www.rizzoliusa.com

© All rights reserved.

No

2009 RIZZOLI PUBLICATIONS

part of this publication

may be

INC.

reproduced, stored in a retrieval system,

or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording,

or otherwise, without prior consent of the publishers.

2009 2010 201

1

2012

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Printed in the United States of America

ISBN: 978-0-8478-3147-0 Library of Congress Control Number: 2009931239

TABLE

»/

CONTENTS

T»

Preface

vi

i

Introduction

vii

Editor's Notes

Antipasti, Pizza,

& Sauces

Soups

Pasta, Polenta,

Fish

Meat

&

viii

91

&

211

Rice

425

507

Poultry

Vegetables

671

Cheese Dishes

Desserts

1

737

747

Conversion Chart

Index by Region

893

894

Index by Principal Ingredient

908

PREFACE The Accademia

Italiana

founded by Orio Vergani

della

Cucina,

in 1953, has as

its

primary purpose the safeguarding of Italy’s culinary traditions.

the

From its very beginning,

academy has worked

the idiosyncratic regional language of the in-

on the other hand, we

dividual contributors;

had

to

put together a clear and readable col-

lection that

The

to record, study,

would be easy

resulting

to consult.

work presents more than

and spread knowledge of Italy’s most genu-

2,000 recipes, from the well-known classics

ine regional dishes. Today, thanks to the

to

dedicated work of more than 7,600 acad-

of traditions that have been nearly forgot-

emy members organized in 300 delegations, we have succeeded in collecting the fruits of

ten even by the inhabitants of

this

One its

unprecedented in

is

its

of the strengths of the Accademia

reach across the entire territory of

Our members have been

is

Italy.

able to canvas the

country, investigating even the most remote

and

Any

isolated localities

—areas

that

Italian

loom dish

scope.

would

the inclusion

many

Italian

cities.

long labor, assembling a collection of

recipes that

some obscure gems, with

knows

that a cherished heir-

sure to vary in

is

depending on who

is

be made in a certain way other

way

way by are

at a relative’s,

a friend.

minimal (or

its

preparation,

in the kitchen. It will at

and

home,

in an-

in yet another

Sometimes the differences at least

they appear so on

escape the attention of any single author

the surface); sometimes they are substan-

working alone.

tial.

Only by ditions, its

living in Italy,

by being

day-to-day

constitute true

its

tra-

in constant contact with

and

Interpretation, improvisation

—these

are essential characteristics of traditional Italian cooking.

Thus

while

we have

strived

possible to under-

to present the

most iconic version of key

select the dishes that

gional dishes,

it is

reality, is

stand, evaluate,

by knowing

it

—not only the

home cooking

dishes being prepared today but also the

to

up

to you, the

home

make them your own. This

is

not intended to be a history book

ones that were prepared in years past and

but a living cookbook. The ultimate goal

those that persist only in the memories of

keep these recipes

our elders.

erations might continue to enjoy them.

Thus was born

the idea of taking a kind

of census, so far as doing so was possible, of Italy’s

enormous patrimony of local cooking

traditions.

iting

had

cate.

On the one hand we hesitated to change

vi

alive so that future

are especially delighted that

culinary knowledge lish

—

language

is

to

be both wide-sweeping and

deli-

available in the

a true world to discover.

Paolo Petroni Editorial

Coordinator and Supervisor

Accademia

is

to

gen-

We

now this body of

But such a huge task necessarily

presented certain challenges. The overall ed-

re-

cook,

Italiana della Cucina

Eng-

INTRODUCTION Such

emy

an

a genial idea:

on

called

its

Italian culinary acad-

many members,

located

there aren’t local variations,

in every part of the cbuntry, to collect fa-

vorite recipes for traditional local dishes

from

relatives, friends,

because

nial

culture: the

and neighbors. Ge-

goes to the heart of Italian

it

home,

family, food. In Italy a

restaurant earns praise

if its

be described as “homemade” that the

home cook

is

result

It is

on most at the

—an accurate comparison since

each recipe leads back to a province, a

city,

That

a street, ultimately a kitchen table.

intimacy has contributed to the book’s en-

much

very

From

(backed by stubborn

region to region

from the seacoast to the

— everything changes

Whether or not

— even

famous dishes known their

now

until

toned-down modern

only from

versions.

ents,

These

customs, and history. In addition to

famous recipes there are recipes

in

little

not

all

travelers: only those

enough

to seek

knowledgeable

them out or lucky enough

be invited into an

How much was lost in translation? Certain jokes

and witticisms

in local dialect resisted

translation into standard Italian

and thus

could not be brought into English. Otherwise every effort has been

made

to maintain

the varying local flavors of the original. The royal history of Naples

unmistakable in

is

the Veneto, along with that region’s

tell

you,

compass, exactly where

to

home.

Italian

ways,

in very large ways.

or eggplant or pecorino can often

for dishes

unknown to American cooks, known only to travelers in Italy. And

previously

many Neapolitan

the sauce contains tomatoes

as accurately as a

a treasure, presenting

same

interior of the

and many things change

you

still

is

a patchwork quilt of constant, often

opinions).

region

Also appealing

reveals about Italy,

striking, variations

and

does the original, historical version of

it

dishes size of a

Phonebook

what the book

as

their close relationships with local ingredi-

was a cookbook the

Italy.

which makes the English-language

—recognition

the best cook.

and most accurately,

during popularity in

All of

edition a surprise

genuine versions reveal their roots, and

local level, at the source.

The

also

creations can

also true that traditions are carried enthusiastically,

which are

duly noted.

mor,

also

is

recipes; the rustic past of

made abundantly

wry hu-

clear.

From

every region there are recipes that give a sense of the hardships of the past. There

can be no better example of

Italy’s

famous

cucina povera than the “fish” soup that calls

are.

The most

striking aspect of the

book

for

no

fish

and

gets

its

seaside flavor

from

cooking water.

remains the enormous quantity of recipes

beach rocks, boiled

and

Being such a clear mirror of Italian culture,

their close relationship to the places

where they are after site

page

eaten. Plenty of

them

—page

—have been prepared on the same

using the same ingredients since the

Middle Ages or before. Which doesn’t mean

Italian

food

in the

reflects that nation’s history

and geography. La Cucina documents not just the

cooking of

character as well.

Italy,

but the country’s

EDITOR’S NOTES Family recipes present certain caveats.

BEANS The two most common types of

These recipes were not

beans used are

tested in a profes-

borlotti

(cranberry beans)

sional kitchen, thus not simplified or stan-

and

dardized. They are instead originals,

handed

chickpeas, and favas also feature promi-

original

nently. If the type of

down

over

many

generations.

book endeavored al

The

to maintain the individu-

voices of each recipe’s contributor,

we have done

Thus you

will

Some

pared to adjust cooking times.

no-

beans are called

others regarding technique. In terms of in-

fill

all

are less precise than the

today’s cookbooks.

this flexibility

soaked

first.

BREAD

In the Italian country kitchen,

Embrace

and vary the ingredients

own taste, seasonality, and Some of the ingredients may be

bread goes

stale

it is

or tossing with pasta.

hard to find outside of valid substitutions for

Italy,

but there are

any regional herb or

have attempted to remain true to the of

this

book

lished in Italy.

as

sults

crumbs

the bread

it

was

originally

pub-

However, we have made some

is

up

ground

for coating other ingredients

from bread

Good

that

stale

is left

at

bread re-

room tem-

perature in a perforated plastic or paper

bag or box, not refrigerated.

or cheese.

when

not discarded. Slices

Or

into

spirit

dried

are topped with soup or stew to soak their savory liquids.

availability.

We

When

they should always be

for,

based on your

mushroom

not specified,

is

delve into greater detail than

gredients, almost

recipes that

bean

lentils,

choose whichever you prefer, but be pre-

and

language varies from recipe to

tice that the

recipe.

the same.

though

cannellini (white beans),

hand, you can approximate drying fresh bread a

slices in a

If

none

stale

is

on

bread by

350° oven for

few minutes.

changes to open the book to a broader audience. Approximately one

hundred recipes

mainly because they depended

were

cut,

upon

ingredients rarely found outside of Ita-

ly.

In other cases,

we transformed recipes

into

“Local Tradition” sidebars, so that the reader

may learn a

dish’s history

BROTH In

general, use a broth that cor-

responds to the principal component of a dish.

For instance, use beef broth for a beef

recipe.

Chicken broth

is

the default for reci-

pes that do not specify.

and principal com-

ponents. In general, for every chapter except

CAPERS The

Desserts, the recipes yield four servings, un-

near Sicily and Sardinia have the most

less

otherwise stated. Here are

some general

flavor.

larger capers

Capers preserved

from the

islands

in salt are prefer-

guidelines concerning ingredients.

able to those brined in vinegar, but both

BAY LEAVES Used to infuse sauces and stews

using.

should be rinsed well and drained before

with flavor, bay leaves themselves should not be eaten, and can be removed before

CHEESE Here

serving,

commonly used

if

desired.

are

some of the cheeses most

in this book:

As a go i

named

,

for the plateau at the foot

of the Dolomites to the north of Vicenza in the

Veneto region,

a pale cow’s-milk

is

cheese with a slightly sweet

hardened

it

can be grated.

eral versions,

from a hard,

taste;

It is

aged and

made

in sev-

one would use the grana of that

widely available outside

Montasio

(the Valtellina),

is

aged or Giulia.

it is

Mozzarella

and shaped by hand,

stretched

Made

mozzarella and provolone.

cow’s milk, caciocavallo

when

it

is

with

young

has a firm, smooth texture and a mildly salty flavor that is

aged.

It is

grows more pungent

often

made

into a

and smoked versions are

as

it

Fiordilatteisa

—

literally,

Mozzarella di bufala

mon

With

nutty flavor, fontina ing, as

it

is

its

made from

today. Buffalo milk

is

buffalo

most com-

creamier than

is

more

cow’s and imparts a

velvety texture

and tangier fragrance.

cheese from

a

is

hard cheese

skimmed cow’s milk by a centuries-old method in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, and Bologna in Emilia-Romagna and Mantova in partly

Lombardia.

delicious ex-

amples of which come from the slopes of the Valle d’Aosta.

is

milk rather than cow’s milk, as

Parmigiano-Reggiano

“flower of milk.”

most authentic and

though

gourd shape,

Fontinaisan unpasteurized cow’s-milk cheese, the

one of the most famous

southern versions are considered the best.

available.

soft, fresh

is

available cheeses in Italy,

made from cow’s milk

fresh. It

made of cow’s

CACIOCAVALLO comes from Southern Itawhere

a firm cow’s-milk cheese

comes from Friuli-Venezia

and widely

like

is

similar to Asiago, available

milk and ten percent goat’s milk.

ly,

Parmi-

giano-Reggiano.

half-fat cheese to

from the Sondrio province of

Lombardia

we have usu-

Italy,

ally substituted the quintessential

a soft, full-fat version.

Bitto,

recipe’s re-

gion. Since these local grana cheeses are not

delicate, buttery,

a favorite for cook-

melts beautifully.

Pecorino

any

refers to

milk cheese (pecora

is

Italian

sheep ’s-

Italian for “sheep”);

of the dozens of varieties of pecorino cheeses,

the

most famous version

is

pecorino Ro-

mano, which has a sharp and pungent flavor

Gorgonzola cheese.

It

is Italy’s

was born

in

most famous blue

Lombardia, but

most all of it today is produced

Made

in

al-

Piemonte.

of cow’s milk, most gorgonzolas are

aged from three to

six

that

makes

it

Pecorino dolce

minimum)

are called gorgonzola dolce ; the

most pun-

a general

term for a hard,

grainy-textured cheese often used for grat-

The

young and

fresh pecorino

Provolone

is

a sharp

and tangy, firm-tex-

tured cow’s-milk cheese that originated in

gorgonzola ,

ing.

a

the Basilicata region of southern Italy; like

gent, gorgonzola piccante.

is

is

with a notable sweetness and softer texture.

months. The mildest,

sweetest versions (aged for the

Gran a

mainly appropriate for cook-

ing or for grating like Parmigiano-Reggiano.

original recipes here often called

simply for grana, the expectation being that

it

has lighter-flavored versions

referred to as dolce,

and stronger-flavored,

aged versions referred to as piccante. Both versions can also be

smoked and

are

good

for cooking.

ix

a

.

Ricotta in Italian means “re-cooked,”

and

refers to a soft, mild

creamy-white

made from

cheese traditionally

the

whey

remaining after making pecorino. Today,

most

ricotta is

made from

cow’s milk.

and

a very mild, lightiy tart flavor

grainy texture. serts

It is

also often

and baking. Ricotta

which

ricotta to

a preservative,

more pungent Robiola

is

salt

It

has

slightly

salata refers to

in flavor

less

it

moist and

than fresh

ricotta.

a goat’s milk cheese that often

contains cow’s and sheep’s milk.

creamy texture and

is

is

important to use organically grown

fruit,

in order to avoid the ingestiop of pesticides

and other harmful chemicals found peel of conventionally zest the fruit before

grown

you

juice

fruit.

in the

Always

it.

used in des-

has been added as

making

When a recipe calls for citrus zest, it

CITRUS

It

has a

not aged beyond

FLOUR

Italy’s

famous hard durum wheat

provides the semolina flour used to dried pasta and

homemade

for

be used. In

some

make

breads. However,

pasta, a softer flour should

recipes here, unless other-

all

wise specified, use unbleached all-purpose flour.

three weeks.

GARLIC European

Scamorza, from Abruzzo and Molise, is

a pasta filate (“pulled or

cheese that

is

spun dough”)

shaped by hand,

or mozzarella.

A

like

provolone

cow’s-milk cheese with a

mild, creamy flavor similar to mozzarella, is

it

sometimes smoked.

smaller than

garlic cloves tend to

much

can markets, so

it’s

garlic

be

found in Ameri-

best to err

on the

side of

using less rather than more to avoid over-

whelming the other garlic

flavors in a dish. All

should be peeled unless otherwise

stated. In

many

recipes in this book, whole

garlic cloves are left in the dish at the time of

Taleggio

is

made

in the Taleggio Valley

north of Bergamo as well as in other centers in

Lombardia and

in Treviso in the Veneto.

serving but are not intended to be eaten

custom that

is

in

—

accord with the recipes’

rustic origins.

Made in square forms, it is a semisoft cow’smilk cheese with a delicate creamy taste but a pungent aroma.

GREENS Spring and summer in the ian countryside means fields of tender

Ital-

wild

greens, which enterprising foragers turn

Toma

(also

known

as

tuma ) can mean

different kinds of cheeses.

The

first is a

into flavorful salads, soups, sauces, or side dishes.

While the wild

smooth, firm, cow’s-milk cheese from Lom-

to find,

bardia and Piemonte, traditionally aged

available at grocers

between three and eighteen months. In

markets today.

cilia,

toma

molded fers to

Si-

many

varieties

may be hard

of these greens are widely

and

especially farmers’

refers to fresh ewe’s-milk curds

in a basket. In the north,

tuma

re-

Arugula cooked

an unsalted goat’s-milk cheese.

CHILE PEPPER Note that sometimes, in or-

is

used in salads and soups,

as a vegetable, or

added

to sauces.

Chicory, radicchio, endive, and escarole

members of

and

der to impart a more subtle flavor to a dish,

are

whole dried hot peppers are used and

share a pleasantly bitter taste. Chicory’s

left

all

the chicory family

somewhat resemble those of

in the dish at serving time (but in this case

curly leaves

they are not meant to be eaten)

dandelion’s. “Curly endive”

is

quite similar,

Each region imparts

but with slightly darker green leaves. Curly

OIL

endive and chicory are roughly interchange-

teristics to its native olive oils.

able in recipes.

oils,

especially

sidered the

Escaroleis most often cooked, baked, or broader and

stirred into soupp. Its leaves are

wavier, resembling lettuce.

It

has a milder

Radicchio comes in several

varieties, the

which may be the

familiar of

tight,

from

elegant; those

for their

central

peppery character;

from the south often carry

hints of

Mediterranean herbs. Try to use an

olive oil

olive oils

from

most

most

from the region of the recipe

flavor than the rest of the chicory family.

Northern

from Liguria, are often con-

known

Italy are

different charac-

oil

a nearby region.

for

or, failing that,

extra-virgin olive

of these recipes. For deep-frying,

all

you may

Use

substitute vegetable

oil.

round, bright crimson heads of radicchio rosso di Verona (or rosa di

Chioggia ), which

is

often served raw or lightly wilted in salads.

PARSLEY

Italian parsley has flat, sharply

pointed leaves, and a clean, bright flavor

Radicchio di Castelfranco has a looser shape

fundamental to

and more of a marbleized pink

ley

Shaped

coloration.

head of romaine

similarly to a

tuce and markedly less bitter than ins, radicchio di Treviso

but

is

also often

baked, or

used

its

and

Curly pars-

let-

cous-

can be served fresh

in sauces

Italian cooking.

a poor substitute.

is

risottos,

PINE NUTS

The

come from

best pine nuts

Pisa. If these are unavailable,

you may

be able to find pine nuts from

Italy.

still

grilled.

PORK Every region of Italy has

its

own

dis-

tinctive

pork products, many of which have

plant with no real botanical or historic con-

become

essential to general Italian cuisine.

nection to Switzerland; in Italian cuisine

Ciccioli are the flavorful bits left over after the

Swiss chard

used in

much

the

is

actually a native Italian

same manner

it’s

as spinach.

fat

has been rendered, similar to cracklings.

The MARINADES While many of the not originally while

it is

recipes did

call for refrigerating a

marinating,

it is

dish

best to do so for

safety reasons in the

modern

MEAT AND POULTRY

In this

jowls (guanciale)

similar

not smoked.

coming are reci-

pes from the countryside, where cooks have access to

all

kinds of animals, and where

almost every part of the animal

Thus sometimes

is

used.

a recipe will specify the

age and/or gender of an animal. This detail is

key to the ideal qualities and taste of the

dish.

Try your farmers’ markets and other

local sources to see if

you can obtain these

meats. Substitute as needed, but note that quantities

and cooking times

be adjusted.

will

as

belly (pancetta) in a

American bacon, though

The ham

of a pig that

is

salted

and air-cured has the great honor of be-

kitchen.

book

manner

and

and cured and used

are often seasoned

need

to

is

prosciutto, the finest type of

prosciutto di Parma.

the pig

many fat

is

The

which

rind, or skin, of

used to give flavor and body

stews.

from the

Lardo pig’s

is

rump

and seasoned with

to

a delicacy of the white

that has

been cured

spices. Lardo, as well as

other types of fatty meat, are used in the larding of meat before cooking.

piece of meat,

first

cut small

slits

To

lard a

every inch

or so across the surface of the meat.

Then

insert small pieces of the larding fat into the slits,

using either a larding needle, a skewer,

or even the tip of a knife. This helps the meat

.

and augments

to stay moist

its

which

simply rendered pork

is

Lardo

flavor.

should not be confused with lard

( strutto ),

Lard

fat.

a staple in the Italian country kitchen,

is

used

pork and often beef or

veal), pancetta, pro-

sciutto, soppressata (pressed

salame usually

made

^smoked ham

with pork), or speck

shoulder)

often for sauteing. Avoid supermarket lard that has

been hydrogenated. You can

tute olive oil for lard in

most

substi-

RICE Arborio, Vialone Nano, and Carnaroli are the three rieties

most common and popular va-

of Italian rice used in

In indi-

risotto.

vidual recipes, a particular kind of rice ten specified based is

upon

specified, try to use

SALT Sea

is

of-

SALAME There

are

Most

a recipe calls for

ent. It

is

wine as an ingredi-

always wise to use (and drink) a

wine from the same region as the recipe.

VANILLA In

Italian variety.

many

types of local

with various ingre-

dients, flavorings, sizes, shapes,

processes.

salt to taste.

the region. If none

an

Italy,

generally preferable. Rarely

WINE Specific recommendations are given

when

more salame throughout

salt is

measurements given; add

are

cases.

Italian salame,

Italy,

we have would

substituted throughout. If you

like to

make your own

and curing

ar, split a vanilla

however,

cover

is

vanilla-sugar packets are

often used than vanilla extract, which

it

bean, place

it

vanilla sugin a jar,

with granulated sugar. Shake

uncooked, air-dried and cured, and made

casionally,

with pork along with other meats, lard, or

will

pancetta, and boldly flavored with garlic,

in place of extract,

wine, herbs, and spices. Unless otherwise

sugar otherwise in the recipe.

recommended that you use a salame from the same region as the recipe.

VINEGAR Always use wine vinegar

The

ian cooking

directed,

is

a catch-all term

for Italian-style dried sausage,

and

serve as a decent substitute in

some

recipes

using dried sausage. Fresh sausage

salsic -

cie ) is called for in

some

this will

(

recipes; here

you

can use the generally available “Italian sausage” that

taste.

is

sold

from the butcher’s case

depending upon the recipe and your

Cotecchino

is

a fresh

pork sausage

that contains bits of pork skin in

Finocchiona seed.

in

supermarkets; use the spicy or sweet

variety

after a

oc-

few days, the sugar

have taken on the vanilla

flavor.

Use

this

reducing the amount of

it is

English “salami”

many

and

and

it

Note

is

a sausage

that the

made

its

mixture.

with fennel

word salumi refers

the flavors of the dish. The exception

be that apple cider vinegar tain dishes

of

Modena and Reggio

Emilia, just north

of Bologna in Emilia-Romagna, and

it

al-

ways bears the appellation Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di sparingly, at the

Modena.

added

at the

It

should be used

very end of cooking,

time of serving, or in dressings and

light sauces.

to the

YEAST For leavening, the called for lievito di birra

(air-

dried salted beef), collo or coppa (cured

aged ham),

guanciale, mortadella (sausage

would

fine in cer-

from the northern regions. True

including but not limited to bresaola

culatello (salt-cured

is

balsamic vinegar comes from the provinces

entire family of cured or preserved meats,

pork neck),

in Ital-

—red or white depending upon

made

of

yeast. In all cases

original recipes

and other kinds of

we have approximated

equivalents using active dry yeast, which

more

universally available.

is

THE REGIONS

/ ITALY

IN

ANCHOVIES

ACCIUGHE SALSA ROSSA

IN

PIEMONTE

TOMATO SAUCE

Rinse the anchovies,

Combine 1

salt-cured anchovies

lb.

garlic clove,

1

1

piece

Cover the anchovies with

minced

room temperature

make

sauce and

this

let

a sauce.

stand at

for several hours before use.

pepper, minced

chili

1

% cup

them, and place in a container.

fillet

the remaining ingredients to

chopped

tbsp. capers

flat-leaf

parsley

6 tbsp. tomato puree 1

tsp.

sugar

ACCIUGHINI

i

TOSCANA

SAGE -AND -ANCHOVY FRITTERS This dish

is

popular

in

YI el DS

12

FRITTERS

Piombino, a town on the southern

coast of Toscana. 24 large sage leaves,

Dredge the sage

leaves in flour.

Cut the anchovies

in half

rinsed and patted dry

lengthwise and sandwich each half between two sage cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging the sage leaves 1

Zi

leaves, squeezing to

rinsed and filleted

1

olive oil to

large egg white,

beaten

until

batter,

foamy

Olive

stick together.

make

a batter.

Heat 3 inches of

SARDEGNA

then fry them until golden brown and crunchy.

Serve hot.

1

ONION PIZZAS Lardo

is

pork fatback, from the strip of

fat that

the pig’s back. The lardo used for cooking

medium 1

7 oz.

%

onions,

olive oil in a

oil

AGNOLOTTI CON CIPOLLA

2 lbs.

Whisk

tablespoon

1

saucepan. Dip the sage-and-anchovy sandwiches in the

cup white wine

Zi

make them

together the flour, wine, egg white, and

6 salt-cured anchovies,

chopped

plum tomatoes, peeled and chopped lbs.

casu de fitta (aged pecorino sheep cheese; can use

is

fresh, not to be confused with the lardo that

seasoned (see page

42).

If

fatback

is

is

runs along

most often cured and

unavailable, you could

trim just the white fat portion from unsmoked bacon and use that as a substitute.

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Combine

the onions, toma-

ricotta salata), grated

toes, cheese, lardo, 7 oz. lardo (see note), Za

minced

cup diced zucchini

2 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

Outer leaves from

1

2

and about Z2 cup warm

more as needed

that are

the

1

Z2 inches

thick.

this

with the flour

salted water to obtain a

what firm dough. Divide the dough

head of cabbage Salt

and zucchini. Blend

some-

into 6-inch pizzas

Arrange the cabbage leaves on

bottom of a baking pan, place the pizzas on top of

them, and bake

until golden.

Serve warm.

ORANGES WITH ANCHOVIES

ANTIPASTO D’ARANCE

MOLISE

Do not peel

Rinse and dry the oranges. crosswise in thin

4 large, juicy oranges

Arrange the

slices.

them. Cut them

on a

slices

lunga (large serving plate) Garnish with anchovy .

sperfillets

(preferably organic)

and dress with 6

oz.

packed Yz

olive oil

and

salt.

salt-cured anchovies,

cup extra-virgin

in oil

olive oil

Salt

LOCAL TRADITION

ALBORELLE OR SARDINE SALATE Fish

prepared by this traditional method, typical of the Lake Iseo area of Lombardy,

go very well with spaghetti or fresh polenta. Fresh alborelle, or sardines, are slightly dried on a rack and then layered garlic, sage,

and

left

soaked

in

di

mare

SICILIA

I

2 Yi cups Arborio rice

A few threads saffron, 1

tbsp.

warm water

3 large eggs, lightly beaten Yi

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Extra-virgin olive 1

Yz

garlic clove,

medium

salt.

The pot

is

then covered and weighted

onion,

oil

chopped chopped

CONTINUED

fish

are

salt before eating.

SEAFOOD RICE BALLS This dish

made

in

an earthenware pot with a mixture of chopped

water and then milk to remove the

ARANCINI AL SAPORE

steeped

in

and rosemary and coarse sea

undisturbed for a period of up to 2 months, after which time the

an

is

typical of Caltanissetta. The fritters can also be

smaller, about the size of a large nut, and served with

aperitif. In that case, the fish stuffing

together with the

rice,

should be mixed

but otherwise the fritters would be

prepared the same way. Boil the rice in 4 cups lightly salted water until

dente; drain the eggs,

it

well.

Add

the saffron

and

its

and Parmigiano-Reggiano, mixing

aside to cool.

Prepare the

olive oil in a large

filling:

it is

al

water, half well. Set

Heat 2 tablespoons

pan and saute the

garlic

and onion;

add the tomatoes, then the seafood, beginning with the pieces that require the

most cooking. The baby shrimp

3

Zi

cup plum tomatoes, peeled and chopped

Zi lb. sliced

cuttlefish

swordfish, pieces of

orate, then

last.

Pour

baby shrimp

cup dry white wine All-purpose flour

Breadcrumbs

in the white

wine and

complete the cooking, adding

let it

warm

evap-

water

if

mmd that the result should be soft

necessary, bearing in

carefully boned);

(all

Zi

should come

but not soupy. Let cool enough to handle, then chop the

Take a tangerine-size

fish into small pieces.

ball

of rice

mixture and press your thumb in the center to make a hollow.

Add

and form

a

little filling,

then close the rice around

it,

into a ball. Roll the balls in the flour, then the

remaining eggs, then breadcrumbs. Heat 3 inches of olive oil

in a saucepan,

must be

enough

to deep-fry the balls.

The

oil

hot, but not smoking, before adding the balls.

Working in batches (being fry until golden.

careful not to

Drain well and serve

crowd the pan),

hot.

RICE BALLS ARANCINI D RISO I

SICILIA

WITH MEAT AND PEAS Boil the rice in 4 cups lightly salted water, cooking

it

over moderate heat for about 15 minutes and stirring 2 Zi cups Arborio rice 2 large eggs, beaten

4 tbsp.

(Kz stick)

unsalted butter

cup grated caciocavallo cheese

1

(if

tbsp.

1

possible from Ragusa)

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

continuously until

all

the water

half the caciocavallo.

and season with prepare the

salt

filling.

When

7 oz.

browned ground

minced, with a

filling:

veal or pork,

little

of

its

gravy

Pinch powdered saffron Zi

cup fresh peas, cooked with onion 4

oz.

fresh

tuma

(unsalted

goat's-milk cheese), cut

damp hands

and pepper.

Mix

spread

it

oil

4

While the

rice cools,

the meat, saffron, peas, tuma, until blended.

With %

cup),

the filling in the center, then close the rice over, forming a ball roughly the size of a small orange. oil in

a

saucepan until hot. Dip the

Heat 3 inches of

balls in the

remaining

eggs and then breadcrumbs. Working in batches (being

in bits

breadcrumbs

Salt

and

the parsley

out on your palm, and place a teaspoonful of

crowd the pan), fry

and serve warm. Olive

stir in

Remove

butter,

take a small quantity of rice (about

careful not to 6 oz.

absorbed.

blended,

and the remaining caciocavallo For the

is

from the heat and quickly add half the eggs,

for frying

and pepper

until golden, drain well,

ASPARAGUS WITH GORGONZOLA

ASPARAGI

GORGONZOLA

AL

PIEMONTE

There are two types of Gorgonzola, a luscious blue-veined cheese. Gorgonzola dolce, which

3 1

A

lbs.

asparagus,

creamy and

is

yellow,

is

more

suitable for this recipe than Gorgonzola piccante,

which

is

(

woody ends trimmed 7 oz. Gorgonzola dolce, sliced

4tbsp.

(Vz stick)

crumbly and white.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the asparagus stalks to

unsalted butter,

equal length, and boil briefly in lightly salted water until

melted

very bright green.

Dry the asparagus

stalks,

place

them

Salt

in a

baking dish, and cover with Gorgonzola and butter.

Bake

until the cheese

melted and

is

lightly

browned,

about 10 minutes.

LOCAL TRADITION

«•

ASPIC From the area filoni (spinal

breads,

filoni,

and lemon

of

Lombardy, this preparation for aspic incorporates veal sweetbreads,

cord with marrow), cock’s comb, beef tongue, and pistachios. The sweet-

and cock’s comb are cleaned, rinsed, and boiled separately

juice.

The tongue and pistachios are layered

in a

traditional

in

water

mold or

loaf

pan, topped with gelatin, and chilled until set. The boiled meats are then arranged

overlapping layers with more gelatin used to keep the layers dish has set and chilled, slice

I

BAGNETTO VERDE

PIEMONTE

I

large

bunch

flat-leaf

parsley

at the table.

In

Piedmont this sauce

Carefully

combine

3 salt-cured anchovies,

chopped

Then whisk

Pinch

chili

indispensable as an accompani-

wash and dry the

chopped

Yz

is

to mixed boiled meats.

2 garlic cloves,

1

in

Once the whole

GREEN SAUCE FOR BOILED MEAT ment

1

it

intact.

parsley, finely

chop

it,

well with the other ingredients except the in the

and oil.

oil.

cup breadcrumbs

tbsp. red wine vinegar

pepper flakes (optional)

% cup olive

oil

5

LOCAL TRADITION

BAGNA CAODA Literally “hot bath,”

bagna caoda

Piedmontese winemakers. This

is

is

a pungent dip and sauce first devised by ancient

the traditional process:

a large

In

earthenware

pot,

over a low flame and stirring constantly for at least 30 minutes, slowly dissolve thinly sliced garlic cloves in extra-virgin olive

oil

and

butter.

Once they have become a creamy,

homogenous sauce, add the Spanish red anchovies and more the anchovies dissolve, blending with the garlic and

The secret of the preparation,

bagna caoda, insist

on a

full

is

to heat

it

critical

if

oil

oil

and cook slowly

to create a light

until

brown sauce.

one wants a good, healthy, and easy-to-digest

over a low flame and to never overcook

it.

Firm traditionalists

head of garlic per person, up to 15 cloves, though 2 to 3 cloves, soaked

in

cold water for a couple hours or placed under running water, per person will suffice.

Use 2 to 3 anchovies per person, cleaned oil

must be

at the table,

extra-virgin olive

add

oil if

oil,

in

water and wine, well dried, and boned. The

with at least 2 tablespoons per person.

When

serving

needed, gradually augmenting the sauce.

The vegetables to dip into the sauce should be those typical of Piedmontese kitchen gardens: cardoons (the Gobbi "hunchback” of Nice or Spadoni

di Chieri variety);

red

peppers, both raw and roasted; pickled red peppers; Jerusalem artichokes; green, white, and red cabbage; white hearts of escarole

and chicory; fresh

leeks; white tur-

nips; roasted beets; boiled cauliflower; roasted onions; white potatoes boiled in their

skins; apples; slices of roasted or fried

fried polenta. Long spring onions

pumpkin; as well as slices of hot roasted or

were also sometimes served

crosswise at the base and presented at the table in a

in

bunches

glass of Barbera. Fresh eggs could be scrambled

bagna caoda remaining

in

LIGURIA yellow squash

2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

4 large eggs, beaten

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano % cup grated pecorino CONTINUED

6

half-immersed

FRIED SQUASH RAVIOLI Preheat the oven to 350°F. Peel the squash and pass

through a food lbs.

4,

the last spoonfuls of the

the earthenware pot.

BARBAGIOAN

2

in

for dipping, first sliced

of 3 or

mill.

Put the puree

in a

bake 10 minutes; when cool enough to handle, remove

from the pan, wrap Put the squash puree

Add the ter,

and

in a bowl.

and squeeze

olive

on page

oil; salt

Use

and pepper

oregano,

to taste

rice,

1

teaspoon olive

but-

and mix care-

the flour to prepare a pasta

10, using

it

dry.

Let cool for 10 minutes.

garlic, parsley, eggs, cheeses,

fully to blend.

as

in a dishcloth,

it

baking pan and

oil

and

dough 54

cup

Fresh oregano

cup

Zi

cooked

rice,

al

dente

melted

cup extra-virgin plus

more

% cups all-purpose flour, plus

the filling in evenly

down

using your fingertips to separate the dollops of

filling

and

the

more as needed Salt

Drop

Roll out a second sheet, cover the bottom sheet. Press

oil,

dough

and for frying

rf 1

olive

for the

roll

a sheet (see note, page 212).

spaced nut-size dollops- 114 inches apart along the sheet.

4tbsp. 04 stick) unsalted butter,

J4

out the dough to form

water in place of the eggs, and

dough

form square

pan and

olive oil in a

chd pepper

dough between

flatten the

to

ravioli.

Cut

the dollops.

Heat about 2 inches of brown.

fry the ravioli until golden

Serve very hot.

LOCAL TRADITION

BARBAZZA SCOTTATA This

is

one finds

a preparation

or pork cheek) and fry

When

the barbazza

is

them

CAMPANIA

I

a

pan with a

browned, add a

and appetizing. Serve piping

BRIOCHE RUSTICA

Umbria. Take two thin slices of barbazza ( guanciale

in

in

little

little

plus

and several sage

red wine vinegar. Nothing

is

,

leaves.

more fragrant

hot.

STUFFED BRIOCHE Combine

cup of the

14

form a dough. Knead 3 cups all-purpose flour,

olive oil

until

doubled

pan.

Combine

flour, yeast,

and enough water

into a small loaf; cover

and

to

let rise

Butter and flour a tube or Bundt

in size.

more as needed the remaining flour, sugar, Parmigiano-

2)4 tsp. active dry yeast 3

A cup (V/2

Reggiano, and

salt

with the eggs and butter.

mixture a long time, slowly adding milk until Zi Zi

Work

this

sticks) unsalted butter it is

soft

but

cup sugar

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 3 large eggs

% cup milk 6 oz. mixed salame, cubed 6 oz. fresh provolone, cubed

CONTINUED

compact and, by then

will

the

dough and

and

the

dough

let rise.

Knead

which

this energeti-

roll it

into a ball, inscribe

it

with

After about an hour, rework

out into a large strip about 6 inches

Distribute the pieces of salame and cheese along

the length of the strip of

on

size.

loaf,

mixture comes away from the bowl as a

Form

a cross, cover,

wide.

add the small yeasted

have doubled in

cally until the

single piece.

finally,

itself to

enclose the

dough then

filling,

roll

the

dough over

forming a narrow

roll.

7

2

cups peas sauteed

in

unsalted

Fit the roll in the

butter and prosciutto (or 2 cups

let it rise until

stewed eggplant or 2 cups sauteed mushrooms)

prepared pan, cover with a cloth, and

the bripch^has

edges of the pan.

expanded l

brioche 25 to 30 minutes, or until

Salt

blond

Remove from the

color.

ing dish, and

fill

to reach the

Preheat the oven to 3 50°F. Bake the it

becomes

a dark

oven, transfer to a serv-

the central cavity with the cooked peas

and prosciutto, or with eggplant or mushrooms.

LOCAL TRADITION

BELECOT This fresh salame

is

connected to the Fira

held annually around the third Sunday of

di sette

dulur ("Fair of the seven sorrows”)

September

at Russi,

on the Romagna plain leading from Ravenna to Faenza. Known

an important center in

dialect as belecdt

("already cooked”), this salame falls halfway between cotechino and the traditional

(and nearly extinct) zuzzezza

dominant reddish

mata sausage

BRUSCHETTA LAZIO

i

name

of which does not express

its

BRUSCHETTA The word bruschetta care,

4 slices peasant-style bread 1

(the

color).

garlic clove, peeled

and cut

in half

Olive

oil

meaning

is

derived from the dialect word brus-

“to scorch.”

According to the

late

Secondino

Freda of the Accademia Italiana della Cucina, bruschetta was

once known to the

common

people as cappone (“capon”).

This popular term reflects the fact that the less well to do,

not having the financial

means

to enjoy a true

capon

(per-

Salt

haps cooked with the spicy “diavolo” sauce), made do with “bruscato,” bread seasoned with garlic and olive

name cappone. Without

to the

came

into being in the vicinity of olive

sessed

some

of

it

leading

presses where, since

ancient times, the quality of the freshly pressed by drizzling

oil,

doubt, this savory antipasto

oil

was

as-

over slices of grilled bread.

If

desired, freshly ground pepper can be added, increasing the flavor of the bruschetta.

Grill the slices of

bread and rub them with the

Arrange them on a serving sprinkle with olive

oil.

plate,

season with

garlic.

salt,

and

BUCCELLATI OR Cl AMBELLE

CON

LE

UOVA

CALABRIA

1

BREAD RINGS WITH BAKED EGGS Grease a baking sheet with

dough with Olive

oil

is lb.

1

bread dough (see page 1

Pinch

13)

heaping tbsp. lard

pdpper flakes

chili

Eggs Salt

BURTLEINA

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

soft

and

into rings.

the lard, elastic.

plus 1

more as needed

cup lard or

pepper

in pieces

it

the bread

flakes until

it

and shape them Preheat

spot before putting in the oven.

the oven to 350°F. Crack a

raw egg

into the center of

each ring. Bake until the rings are golden and the eggs are set, about 25 minutes.

FRIED FLATBREAD This dish

is

typical of Piacenza

Put the flour 3 cups all-purpose flour,

Divide

Knead

oil.

chili

Arrange the rings on the greased pan; let them

warm

rise in a

olive

and

salt,

in a

and the Faenza area.

bowl and slowly whisk

enough warm

in

water to obtain a somewhat liquid batter (about 2 cups);

add

salt to taste.

In a frying

pan heat

lard or Vi inch of

olive oil

olive oil

and when

it is

hot pour in a thin layer of the bat-

Salt

ter. is

Cook

crisp

at a

high heat on both sides until the mixture

and browned.

hot with a dusting of

CACIU ALL’ARGINTERA SICILIA Zn

cup

olive oil

1

lb.

fresh cheese

towels and serve

FRIED CHEESE This dish’s Sicilian

most

2 garlic cloves

Dry on paper

salt.

name means

“silversmith’s cheese,”

al-

certainly a reference to the color of the cooked cheese.

In a pan heat the olive

oil

over

medium

saute the garlic until blond, then discard

cheese pieces in the

heat. Lightly

it.

Cook

the

turning them as soon as they

oil,

(pecorino or caciocavallo), sliced into

’/2 -inch

slices

2 tbsp. vinegar 1

tbsp.

chopped fresh oregano

take

on

color, then quickly sprinkle in the vinegar,

add oregano and pepper. Cover

for a

and

few minutes, then

serve the cheese very hot.

Pepper

9

CALASCIONI

LAZIO

BAKED DUMPLINGS WITH SAUSAGE AND CHEESE These appetizers may well have a Neapolitan origin since they can be found

For the dough: 1/2

cups all-purpose

flour, plus

more as needed

of Naples.

Here

an

a 1

tsp. lard

mixing bowl and shape

3

A cup

grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Zi

4 2 tbsp.

oz.

cup grated pecorino

sausage, cut

chopped

in

flat-leaf

pieces

parsley

3 large eggs, beaten

For the glaze: 1

large egg yolk, beaten

mound

of the

ter

filling:

essential, all-purpose

were once part

method

for

of the

making

it

into a

mound. Use your hand

or the bottom of a measuring cup to hollow out the cen-

oil

Salt

For the

is

several towns that

pasta dough: Pour the flour onto a work surface or into

2 large eggs

2tbsp. olive

in

Kingdom

to

form

Break the eggs into

a crater.

the crater, add a pinch of salt, the lard,

some

that in

mixture

lightly

When the to pull a

more

pasta recipes, no fat

with a fork, as

if

and

olive oil (note

used). Beat the egg

is

making scrambled

eggs.

eggs begin to look homogeneous, use the fork

little

of the flour into the eggs, gradually adding

flour just until the eggs are

no longer runny. Push

aside about 3 tablespoons of flour, then use your hands to

work the

is

smooth.

rest

of the flour into the eggs until the dough

When

right texture,

you think you have achieved the

wash and dry your hands. Press your

fin-

ger into the center of the ball dough. If the dough does

not stick to your finger as you pull

need to add more in flour in small

the to

flour. If the

it

flour or

should be clean

Press the ball of

sticky,

knead

crumbs from your work

when you knead

dough forward with

hand, then fold the dough over on

dough

you do not

out,

Use a towel or pastry scraper

dough passes the test.

—

it

is still

increments (heaping tablespoons) until

remove any loose

surface

dough

the dough.

the

palm of your

itself,

then give the

a half turn. Repeat, pressing forward with your

palm, folding in direction.

half,

and turning, always

ery” (anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes), rolled out.

same

it is

ready to be

Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a bowl mix

together the cheeses and sausage. the eggs

in the

When the dough is smooth and slightly “leath-

and knead

thin sheet (see note,

to blend.

Add

the parsley

and

Roll the pasta out into a

page 212). Cut out

circles

about 2Vi

inches in diameter and spoon walnut-size portions of the prepared filling in the center of each. Close each by

placing another pasta circle the edges with a

thumb

on

top, pressing

to seal.

down

Brush the

along

calascioni

with egg yolk and bake for 5 minutes, or until golden.

10

FRIED DUMPLINGS WITH PROSCIUTTO AND CHEESE

CALCIONI MOLISANI

MOLISE

Mix Add

rT

For the

filling:

and

sheep’s-milkricotta

lb.

1

a

2 large egg yolks, beaten

4 cut

oz.

4

oz.

Chopped Salt

Use

the flour and eggs to prepare a pasta

on page

as

adding the lard and lemon juice

10,

little

lumps of the

On

filling;

one-half of the sheet ar-

these should be about the

spaced about 2 inches apart. Cover

the half of the sheet with the other half. tips to separate the calcioni.

For the dough:

Using

out the calcioni one by one, pressing

down

2 large eggs, beaten

Juice of

oz. lard 1

I

PUGLIA

few

I

For the dough:

cups all-purpose plus

flour,

more as needed

in

2 tbsp.

warm water

Extra-virgin olive

During the period of Lent filling of

in Puglia,

anchovies, boned and cut up, added together with the olives.

Pour the

flour onto a flat surface

with the yeast mixture, a dash of olive

oil.

itself,

Knead

until

it

1

3

A

medium

lb.

ripe

onion, sliced

plum tomatoes,

peeled and chopped Z3

cup

pitted

and chopped

much and

as

%

cup.

Then

and

54

together

it

cup of the

soft

and

let it rise for

cover

elastic,

—you may need

it

it

onto

adding water by

add

to

as

with a clean kitchen towel

about an hour.

Preheat the oven to

450°F. Grease a baking dish. In a saucepan, heat 3 table-

spoons

olive oil

and saute the onion

the tomatoes.

Cook

then add

pepper,

salt,

until pale,

then add

down for a few minutes, and olives. Remove the pan from

the sauce

black olives 4

and work

salt,

the dough, turning and folding

becomes

oil

filling:

was once customary to

it

these calzoni with the addition of salted

the tablespoon as necessary For the

until well

CALZONES

2/i tsp. active dry yeast, dissolved

hot, lower in the

OLIVE AND RICOTTA

enrich the

2

it is

them cook

at a time, letting

with

paper towels, and serve hot.

oil

CALZONE BARESE

an iron pan and, when

calcioni, a

slightly

browned. Remove them with a slotted spoon, drain on

lemon

Extra-virgin olive

olive oil in

finger-

Pour 2 inches of

the fingers along the edges to seal.

more as needed

Use your

a pastry wheel, cut

2Ys cups all-purpose flour,

4

well to obtain

firm to the touch. Let this rest in the

ball,

size of a large walnut,

and white pepper

plus

until blended.

ground pepper. Knead

freshly

sheet (see note, page 212).

range

parsley

flat-leaf

bowl

with the eggs. Roll the dough out into a somewhat thin

large cubes

in slightly

little

dough

provolone piccante cheese, cut

in a

in

cubes

slightly large

a

homogenous

same bowl.

prosciutto crudo,

thick slices, then cut

in

and egg yolks

the ricotta

the prosciutto, provolone, and parsley, salt to taste,

oz. ricotta salata,

passed through a sieve Salt

the heat and add the ricotta salata and

mix

well.

Roll

and pepper

out the dough on a floured board into two sheets, one

CONTINUED

larger than the other. With the larger

one

line the

greased

11

pan. Pour in the sauce, spread

it

out,

and cover with the

other sheet, folding the edges over each other. Bake for

approximately 20 mirflites^or until the top

CALZONE

Dl

CARNEVALE

PUGLIA

is

golden.

CARNIVAL CALZONE Like the preceding one, this dish

served

is

in

Bari at Carnival

time. Olive

oil

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a round baking pan

Make a well with Add the sugar and yeast in the center and mix well. Make a well again and add the eggs and butter; knead well. The dough

with olive For the dough:

the flour S /2 cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed

A ]

1

1

cups sugar

tbsp. active dry yeast 5 large eggs, beaten

%

cup

(1 Yi

sticks) plus 2 tbsp.

unsalted butter, softened

oil

should be the

and dust

it

with

flour.

on the work surface or

soft;

dough

in

add another egg

two

parts,

filling:

Olive

oil

2 lbs. mixed ground pork and veal 5 large eggs, beaten

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Heat

to line the pan.

it

meat

in a

1

lb.

thinly sliced 1

large egg yolk, beaten

Sprinkle sugar on the

Arrange the

to

CAMPANIA

the

the eggs and Parmigiano-

dough

in the

baking pan and top

slices

on more

form a

of scamorza over the ricotta and

sugar.

Roll out the remaining

'/le-inch-thick sheet

and use

this to

dough

cover the

pan, sealing the edges. Pierce the top with a fork, brush with egg yolk, and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until the top is

CALZONE RIPIENO AL FORNO

Add

oil in a

brown and put

with an even layer of meat mixture; cover with ricotta.

ricotta

2 fresh scamorza cheese,

mixing bowl.

tablespoon olive until

Reggiano; mix well to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

sprinkle

%

other. Roll

out the larger portion to form a Vs-inch-thick sheet and

use

Sugar 1

Divide

necessary.

if

one larger than the

pan and add the meats. Saute For the

in a bowl.

well

browned.

BAKED CALZONE Ciccioli are

made during the process

fat is cut in

cubes and “melted”

The result

still

in

of rendering lard:

Pork

copper pots over low heat.

contains small bits of pork meat; these are

removed, flavored with

salt

and pepper, pressed, and aged

to create ciccioli, also called sfrizzoii. There are also spergoli (spapagliati),

tomatoes

in

which are of a darker

calzoni

and there are

still

made without them.

12

is

color.

The use of

relatively recent, dating to the 1940s,

Neapolitan pizzerias where calzone

is

Olive

2 lbs. bread

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Grease a baking sheet with

oil

dough (see recipe

olive

below) lb.

1

4 6

oz. ciccioli

salame (Neapolitan

oz.

10

oz.

mix

roll

Each

the ricotta with the latte),

out to form

will

become

ciccioli,

a

salame,

and Parmigiano-Reggiano;

Put a quarter of this

well.

filling at

the center of each

Close each calzone by folding the dough over and

disk.

pressing

cubed

down

along the edges with the tines of a fork.

Put a pat of lard on each calzone and,

cup grated Parmigiarfo-Reggiano

Bake

spoon of tomato puree.

4tbsp. lard

A

sheet.

pieces

fresh provolone or

fior di latte cheese, 34

Combine

provolone (or fior di

possible), in

and place then} on the

calzone.

(see note)

if

cut

T,

ricotta

Divide the dough in four pieces,

oil.

disks,

if

desired, a table-

for about 10 minutes.

cup fresh tomato puree (optional) Salt

and pepper

CALZUNCIELLI DI

SCAMMARO

CAMPANIA

I

I

FASTING DAY (MEATLESS) CALZONE Mix

For the dough: 3 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

together the flour, a dash of yeast with

oil,

(% to soft

1

extra-virgin olive

in

warm water

2 tbsp.

2 anchovy

fillets

filling:

packed 1

in oil

garlic clove

2 heads of escarole, boiled, drained, 3

A cup

k cup

3

and chopped

capers, crushed

pitted

and chopped

black olives (Gaeta

if

dough

is

a kitchen towel

a standard

dough

somewhat

smooth and and

let rise

(of about 134

Flour a sheet pan and set aside. Heat the anchovy

fillets

in a

pan with

their olive oil over very

low heat

until

they are melted. Raise the heat slightly and saute the garlic,

removing

the escarole the capers sins.

it

and discarding

and

and

stir to

it

when

it is

golden.

Add

blend. Continue cooking, adding

olives and, if desired, pine nuts

and

rai-

Divide the dough into egg-size lumps, then with

floured hands pat

them out

to

form

disks about 4 inches

possible)

in diameter. 34

olive

pounds) that can be used for many bread and pizza recipes.

For the

is

cup of the

sufficient) to obtain a

well, until the

Cover the dough with

for 2 hours. This

salt, 34

FOR PERSONS

and enough additional water

oil

234 tsp. active dry yeast, dissolved

cup should be

dough. Knead

more as needed elastic.

A cup

2

water,

its

6

Arrange these disks on the pan and put a

cup each pine nuts and raisins (optional) Olive

oil

Salt

little

of the escarole mixture at the center of each. Fold

over the disks to close and press

with the tines of a fork to oil in

seal.

a wide high-sided pan.

down

Heat

along the edges

1 34

inches of olive

Fry the calzoni until golden,

drain on paper towels, and serve.

13

1

1

CAPONATA

CAPONATA

CAMPANIA

This dish

is

typical of Maddaloni.

In a large salad bowl combine the anchovies, cauliflower, 4 salt-cured anchovies 1

lb.

pickled vegetables, papaccelle, escarole, lettuce, capers,

cauliflower,

and

cleaned, boiled, and chopped

6

oz.

and

chopped

head

lettuce,

cup black

oil,

and

Place the

bowl and add the wine and remaining vinegar

stand;

when

they are softened crumble them

mixing well to make the mixture

smooth. Top with the mackerel.

chopped

and chopped

% cup olive A cup

pepper, olive

olives (preferably

Gaeta), pitted

3

little salt,

cup capers

Zi Zi

let

into the salad mixture,

head escarole, chopped 1

Season with a

of the vinegar and mix energetically.

freselle in a

chopped 2 papaccelle (pickled peppers),

1

olives.

% cup

mixed pickled vegetables,

oil

white wine vinegar

4 freselle (bread biscuits) 1

Zi lb.

cup white wine

mackerel, poached and

seasoned with

olive oil

Salt

and lemon

and pepper

CAPONATA

2

MOLISE

1

CAPONATA

Briefly soak the taralli in lightly salted water, sprinkle

them with the 4 taralli (savory biscuits

2

vinegar,

and

Place the

a kitchen cloth.

let

them dry

taralli

for 5 minutes

on a serving

plate

on

and

similar to pretzels)

cover them with the tomatoes, celery, pepper, cucumSplash white wine vinegar

ber, garlic, 4 firm plum tomatoes, chopped 2 celery stalks, 1

chopped

large and fleshy sweet pepper,

chopped 1

cucumber, cleaned and chopped 2 garlic cloves,

chopped

Green and black olives as desired 2 large hard-boiled eggs, sliced 4

oz.

anchovies

in oil

Pinch dried oregano 14

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

Salt

14

and

olives; garnish this

boiled eggs and anchovies.

oregano,

hour

salt,

and

olive oil,

with

slices

of hard-

Season the caponata with

and

let it sit

in the refrigerator before serving.

for about half

an

CAPPUNADDA

CAPONATA

3

LIGURIA

This dish

typical of Imperia.

is

Soak the crackers 2 hardtack crackers small can tuna

1

and put them

in oil,

egar,

boned and chopped 2 oz.

in water until soft, drain thoroughly,

in a salad

bowl with the tuna, anchovies,

mosciame, olives, and capers. Season with olive

drained and broken up 3 anchovies,

3

1

mosciame

and

salt to taste.

Mix

carefully

and

let

vin-

oil,

stand at least

hour before serving.

(salt-cured tuna loin), sliced Zi 1

cup green

olives

tbsp. capers, rinsed Extra-virgin olive

oil

White wine vinegar Salt

LOCAL TRADITION

CARNE ’NCARTARATA Following the method for thickly slicing both fat in

came

'ncartaratai, or “aged meat,”

container about 8 inches Calabrian red

chili

in

VALLE D'AOSTA

—

diameter. Each layer

is left

slices in layers with-

preferably a salaturi, a traditional wide-mouthed

spread with

is

pepper and pressed. A wooden plank

and weighted, and the carne

CASTAGNE BOLLITE CON BURRO

from Calabria entails

and lean portions of porkand arranging the

an enameled earthenware crock

to age for several

is

salt

and pieces of

placed on top of the vessel

months

in

a cool place.

BOILED CHESTNUTS WITH BUTTER This dish

is

typical of the

nity in Aosta.

German-speaking Walser commu-

The chestnuts can be used as a side dish to

accompany other specialties of the area, such as lard d’Arnad (see page \2),jambon de Bosses, Valdostan sausages, and cooked blood pudding. Dried chestnuts can be used of fresh, but they

must be soaked

in

in

place

lukewarm water

over-

night before being cooked. Instead of boiling the chestnuts in

water, you can use

whey or

buttermilk.

15

Vi lb.

fresh chestnuts

Shell the chestnuts, cover

4 tbsp. O/2 stick) unsalted butter

H

and

lightly salted water,

them with

boil-

them.

several inches of

When

cooked (be-

tween 30 minutes and an hour, depending on how fresh

cup superfine sugar or to taste Salt

the chestnuts are), drain well. Heat the butter in a

pan

and add the chestnuts, tossing

add

to coat. If desired,

sugar and cook until the sugar has melted.

LOCAL TRADITION

CARNESECCA VALDOSTANA method

This Valdostan artisan ibex

—

called

—

moccetta

and December. The meat

of drying

is

traditionally

is

placed

in

and curing a haunch of chamois, goat, or

performed during the months of November

wooden tub on

a large

soned with sprigs of rosemary, sage, and mountain thyme; juniper berries. Then the meat layer of salt

and herbs and

least 20 days. After

is

left,

a bed of coarse salt sea-

garlic; a sliced onion;

and

dusted with black pepper and covered with another

covered with a weighted plank,

removing the meat from the

again with black pepper, and hung or

left in

salt,

it

is

in

a cool place for at

dried with a cloth, dusted

a cool, airy spot

—such

as an attic

—

to

desiccate for at least one month.

CHIOCCIOLE A PICCHI PACCHI

SICILIA

SNAILS WITH PICCHI PACCHI SAUCE Before being cooked the snails must be purified: Put

them 2 lbs. vaccareddi (large snails) 2 tbsp. olive 1

medium

oil

onion, cut in thin slices

4 ripe plum tomatoes,

in a large basket, firmly sealed so they

cape, and leave

them

for

cannot es-

24 hours. Wash them

carefully,

then put them in a pan, cover with cold water, and place over low heat, letting them cook for about 2 hours. Drain well

and

the

onion.

Heat the

set aside.

olive oil in a

pan and saute

peeled and seeded Pinch

chili

pepper flakes (optional) a

2 tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

and black pepper

pepper

snails

and

then add the tomatoes, (if

desired),

salt,

stir

them around

and parsley

black pepper,

chili

(or basil). Carefully stir

and cook, covered, another 15 minutes. The dish can be served hot or cold.

16

the

parsley

(or basil) Salt

little,

Add

RING CAKES WITH CHEESE

CIAMBELLE COL FORM AGGIO

UMBRIA oil

1

3

A

lbs.

using that area’s excellent pecorino.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking sheet with

5 oz. pecorino dolce cheese 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

CIAMBELLE

These are typical of the area around Todi, where they are

made 3 tbsp. olive

YIELDS 10

olive

oil

oil.

Grate half the pecorino and break the other

half into small pieces. Work the cheese

br&ad dough

the bread dough, eventually forming

it

and

olive oil into

into a loaf; let this

already leavened (see page 13)

Divide the dough into 10 equal pieces. Roll

rise again.

each piece into a rope and form into a ring, pinching the ends together to close the ring. Arrange them on the baking sheet, leaving space between them, and bake for

about 20 minutes, until golden. Let cool before serving.

LOCAL TRADITION C This traditional dish of

wafers only found sauteed

in

in

Genoa

I

A

L

D E

for fried wafers stuffed with veal calls for cialde, large

certain bakeries. The preparation begins with onion and parsley

nutter and olive

oil,

to which

is

added

veal, including

cow’s udder, chopped sweetbreads, and granelli

ground

(testicles). This

veal,

mixture

chopped

is

cooked

slowly and thinned with broth, and after an hour sliced artichokes and schienale (spi-

marrow) are added

nal

or

in

to the pan. The mixture can be either finely

a blender. Fresh peas

One tablespoon of the mixture

dampened

is

spooned

with broth only enough to

fried

into the center of a cialde that

become

package and the edges sealed, then dipped

and

chopped by hand

and egg yolks are added once the mixture has cooled.

in

pliable.

The wafer

is

has been

then closed

like a

whipped egg whites and breadcrumbs,

in olive oil.

17

LOCAL TRADITION C dough from

This basic recipe for pizza

A simple mixture of page

The dough

13.

the pizza

flour, water,

baked

is

well cooked,

is

it

seasoned with a layer of

was

also once

and eat

it

common

folded while

to

Lazio

and yeast

in a pizza

L

is is

A the

same

make bread: same method as on when

as that used to

prepared

oven heated to

its

in

the

highest temperature;

should be removed from the oven, halved crosswise, and

hot.

CARNE

PIEMONTE

ONIONS STUFFED WITH MEAT Preheat the oven to 350°F. Boil the onions in lightly salted water to cover until soft.

2 lbs. onions (preferably the

tbsp. aromatic herbs

(flat-leaf parsley,

sage, rosemary,

thyme), finely chopped (1

stick)

plus

1

stale

soaked

unsalted butter,

more fortopping 8 oz.

ground veal

roll,

grated, then

in

milk until soft

cup

Vi

softened

in

raisins,

warm water

4 large eggs, beaten 3

A cup

off the tops of the

Add

the herbs with the onion pulp. 1

cup

Cut

Mix

onions and scoop out the insides to form bowls.

onions called cipolline)

flat

Zi

It

spread a thin layer of honey over freshly baked pizza dough

CIPOLLE RIPIENE I

A R

ricotta, thin slices of fresh pecorino, or prosciutto crudo.

still

D

I

butter

and saute the veal mixture;

the bread (reserve the milk) into the

and

meat mixture, adding

spoons cheese.

the veal.

Heat the

salt to taste.

raisins,

Drain

then work them

half the eggs

and 2

table-

Stuff this mixture into the onion bowls

and place them on a baking

sheet.

Beat the remaining

eggs with the remaining cheese and add

1

tablespoon of

the milk. Pour this over the onions almost to cover them.

Dot each onion with

butter.

Bake

until the surface

is

browned, about 20 minutes.

grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

CIPOLLE RIPIENE D

I

MAGRO

PIEMONTE

MEATLESS STUFFED ONIONS This

is

the main dish

the town that

in

the traditional cooking of Caravino,

was the source

of this recipe. In the past

prepared only for the feast day of the James, and for that of the Assumption.

18

local

it

was

patron saint,

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking sheet with

4 tbsp. (V2 stick) unsalted butter 2 lbs.

medium

with the tops cut off Vi lb.

water to cover.

stale bread,

soaked overnight

in

ful

cup grated Pd^migiano-Reggiano

cup golden

Remove

nutmeg

Various spices

in a colander,

and

let

sheet.

For the

filling,

squeeze the bread

Finely chop the in-

it

teriors of the

onions and mix them into the bread.

to

through a food

mill.

In

pan melt 2 tablespoons butter and saute the bread

and onion

Salt

from each onion, being care-

dry and pass

a large

(marjoram and thyme)

the center

not to break the resulting “cup.” Arrange these cups

on the baking

raisins, softened

Pinch gratpd

in lightly salted

they begin to open, remove them

from the water, drain upside down cool.

Vi

When

milk

3 large eggs, beaten Vi

and cook them

butter. Peel the onions

yellow onions,

keep

it

for about 10 minutes, stirring continuously

from

bottom of the pan. Put

sticking to the

the mixture in a bowl and add the eggs, Parmigiano-

Reggiano,

raisins,

onion cups with

Bake

until a

nutmeg,

this

and

spices,

Fill

salt.

the

mixture and dot each with butter.

golden crust has formed on each onion.

These can be served hot or cold, as an appetizer or entree.

As

a light meal, they can replace the

main

dish.

LOCAL TRADITION

ONIONS IN THE PIEDMONTESE TRADITION Onions have been cultivated

in

Piedmont since ancient times, as indicated by numer-

ous medieval documents. According to Sandro Doglio, author of a dictionary of Pied-

montese gastronomy, stuffed onions originated at Settimo Torinese, last

Sunday

in

in

the area around Turin,

where they have long represented the

in

particular

typical dish served

on the

August. Even so, the cultivation of onions has always been traditionally

tied to the area

around Canavese, where even today onions

mixtures that vary from town to town

—

are a constant

in

—

filled

with a variety of

meals prepared for impor-

tant occasions. The versions change from place to place, and aside from those given here, there are those based on yellow squash, amaretti cookies, mostarda, and eggs.

A curious version popular

in

old

Piedmont called for baked onions stuffed with

ture of powdered cacao, amaretti, egg yolks, and chopped onion (thus very

a mix-

much

like

the classical stuffing used for peaches). Such chocolate-filled onions were served as a side dish to meats.

Another or herbs.

be

left

It

filling

for onions

seems

likely

that

is

in

cooked

rice,

with the addition of roast meat or salame

the past onions were

filled

with whatever happened to

over from the previous day’s meals.

19

CONDION

POTATO SALAD WITH ANCHOVIES, OLIVES, AND TOMATO

LIGURIA

This dish

is

Combine lb.

1

plum tomatoes,

per, olives,

not overly ripe, sliced 1

with a

cucumber, sliced

1

chili

pepper, cut

and anchovies; add the chopped

little salt,

Top with

2 potatoes, boiled and sliced

typical of the Riviera di Ponente.

the tomatoes, cucumber, potatoes, chili pep-

olive oil,

the eggs

and

serve.

strips

in

cup pickled green olives, pitted and diced

Zi

5 salt-cured anchovies,

rinsed of the salt Several basil leaves, chopped 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

2 tbsp. white wine vinegar 2 large hard-boiled eggs,

cut

in

sections Salt

LOCAL TRADITION CO P The Umbrian pork sausage known as coppa of every part of a slaughtered pig.

way goes

into

it,

from tendons and

the animal, the so-called toletta, of parts

is,

In

the better the coppa

is

is

PA emblematic of the custom of making use not used

a sense, everything that

is

gristle to fat, cartilage,

and

rind.

in

some other

The cleaning of

thus of primary importance. The better the variety

will be.

The procedure goes as follows: Collect bones

from which the meat has already been roughly removed and combine them with a few pork rinds, trotters, head, and ears (carefully cleaned and washed several times), and set

all

When

this to boil in it

water perfumed with fennel seeds, orange

has cooked, detach the meat from the

rough way, flavoring with as needed, working vas sack. Tie in

thin slices,

it

all

salt,

this

and a few it

all

cloves.

up

in

a

and place

it

stuffing the mixture into a can-

under a weight for a few days. The coppa, cut

excellent as part of an antipasto plate, but

a slice of peasant-style bread or a piece of hot foccacia.

20

zest,

bones and chop

pepper, garlic cloves, and grated orange zest. Add salt

together by hand and then

tightly closed

is

still-hot

is

basil.

and vinegar and mix

also great on

its

own

with

Season

carefully.

COPPIETTA

TOSCANA

SMOKED SPICED YEAL This dish

2

lbs.

veal tenderloin or top

round

Wild fennel Chili

pepper flakes

chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely Mi

cup

salt

Pepper

its

is

typical of the butteri (“cowboys”) of the

When

area.

FOR persons

6

Maremma

a horse or donkey being raised in the wild e died,

make

hind quarters were used to

coppietta. Today, given

the scarcity of animals raised wild, steers are used instead.

Cut the meat wide.

into strips about 8 inches long

Combine

all

a large container.

Smoke

and

the other ingredients with the

Mix

well

and

let rest a

the strips of meat by attaching

inch

1

meat

them

to the top of

a fireplace for 2 or 3 days (or use a barbecue smoker)

The

strips

in

few hours.

can be eaten cut in pieces with

.

bread

stale

and red wine.

COPPIETTE

LAZIO

MEAT JERKY This dish

is

typical of

Cut the meat

Rome and the

Viterbo and Pontino areas.

into 4-inch strips.

Season with

salt

and

2 lbs. tender donkey, horse,

or steer meat Zi tsp. chili

pepper flakes Salt

chili

pepper. Attach near the heat of a fireplace so that

can dry and smoke

smoked, preheat the oven

to

Eat

softer,

ABRUZZO

When

minutes to dry further.

companied by

COZZE GRATINATE

well.

a

275°F and bake at

it

the strips have been

room

good dry white wine.

for a

few

temperature, ac-

If you prefer

them

thread onto skewers and heat over charcoal.

MUSSELS AU GRATIN This dish can be prepared without the

tomato puree, and the

mussels can be served with just a dusting of pecorino. 4tbsp. breadcrumbs 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

large garlic clove,

oil

Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a bowl combine the bread-

crumbs,

chopped juice

2 tbsp.

chopped 1

1

4

lbs.

flat-leaf

tsp.

tbsp.

parsley

lemon juice

olive oil, garlic,

and tomato puree

into the mussels

and parsley with

just to bind.

and bake them

a

little

lemon

Stuff this mixture until the stuffing

is

golden, about 15 minutes.

tomato puree

mussels, washed and opened

21

COZZE RIPIENE

MOLISE

STUFFED MUSSELS Diavolillo

means' “little

and

devil”

is

a very hot chili pepper.

Thai bird chilies or several red serrano peppers can be used 1

cup extra-virgin

olive

oil,

or as needed 2 lbs. mussels (use

somewhat

seaside mussels) Zi

cup stale bread without crust 2 tbsp. grated pecorino

2 tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

2 garlic cloves, minced 1

diavolillo (see note),

in

place of the diavolillo.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking pan with

large

minced

olive

Scrape off any barnacles or beards from the

oil.

mussels, brush, and rinse under running water.

high heat in nothing more than the seawater they give up until they

open. As soon as they are

pan from the

Crumble

heat.

adding the pecorino, parsley, in just

enough

sprinkle with

UMBRIA plus 1

more as needed

bread starter (see note),

lb.

1 Zi cups slightly warmed milk and 1 Zi cups lukewarm water

dissolved

in

more

olive oil,

and bake

There

is

cup

cup

slightly 1

oven 1 0 min-

10

FOR PERSONS

butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano, milk, or

Gruyere, but instead with sharp aged pecorino. When, after

about 10 days,

it

begins to harden,

it

is

cut into cubes and

added to broth (meat or vegetable) To make .

mix together water, and 4

Zi Zi

a

bread starter,

teaspoon active dry yeast, 2 cups of cups all-purpose

flour. Let rise at until

warm

room tem-

needed.

warmed

oz. active

milk

dry yeast

On the night before the preparation, form a well with the flour

on

a

work

face to facilitate

cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

in the heat.

1

oz.

Vi

Gruyere, cubed 4 tbsp. lard Zi

cup

salt

add the

surface,

water to bind, and form a

10 large eggs, beaten

4

in the

stick) plus 3 tbsp.

(1

unsalted butter Zi

fill

also an Easter pizza, typical of the area of Foligno,

made without

is

Work

mixture to

browned.

perature overnight. Then refrigerate Zi

diavolillo.

EASTER CHEESE BREAD that

2 lbs. all-purpose flour,

and

garlic,

olive oil to bind; use this

utes, or until they are lightly

I

open, remove the

all

the bread into a bowl,

Arrange the stuffed mussels on the pan,

the mussels.

CRESCIA D PASQUA COL FORM AGGIO

Ar-

range the mussels in a pot, cover, and cook them over

its

The

rising

loaf.

starter

Cut a

and enough

cross into the sur-

and cover with

a cloth to hold

next morning preheat the oven to

400°F. Grease several deep pans with butter or lard. Re-

work the

loaf with the milk

and active dry yeast. In

a large

bowl mix the eggs, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Gruyere, butter, lard,

and

salt;

mix

well

and work

into the dough.

Divide the dough Knead this mixture until it is soft. among the prepared pans, using an amount for each that does not extend more than halfway up the pan. Bake until golden and the loaves sound hollow when tapped,

about 45 minutes.

22

FLATBREAD WITH GREENS CRESCIONE

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

AND SAUSAGE Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking pan with

Combine

lard.

For the dough: 4 oz. lard

2 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

more gs needed cup milk

1

elastic, soft

for

the ingredients as

30 minutes covered by a

form

on page 13

dough. Divide into loaves

disks about 6 inches in diameter

an inch

Heat the

thick.

For the oil

filling:

or unsalted butter

3 oz. lardo (see page 2) 3 oz. pancetta 2 garlic cloves 6 cups mixed greens (spinach, collard greens, beet greens,

wilted;

add

the greens

let rest

a quarter of

pan and

until lightly golden,

and

Remove and

toss briefly until

set aside.

Add

the pro-

and sausage and cook until browned, then

to the greens

Top each

form an

disk of

and work together; add the herbs.

dough with

the

filling.

Fold the dough

over to form a half-moon shape, then seal closed with

much like making a large raviolo. Bake

the tines of a fork,

meat from a prosciutto bone, diced Ya lb.

until golden,

about 20 minutes.

fresh ciccioli

(see note, page 12), Ya lb.

Add

remove from the pan and

sciutto, ciccioli,

radicchio, chicory) Ya lb.

and

olive oil or butter in a

then add the garlic and cook until golden. discard the garlic.

to

and

out the balls to

cloth. Roll

add the lardo and pancetta. Cook

2 tbsp. olive

(balls)

chopped

fresh sausage meat, crumbled

Aromatic herbs

(flat-leaf parsley,

sage, rosemary, thyme), chopped Salt

CRESPELLE

LAZIO

RING-SHAPED FRITTERS In

the Ciociaria area, these are

on Christmas 1

% cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed 1

%

oz. active

large egg

like

yeast,

dry yeast

Extra-virgin olive

oil

Salt

made

for the

midday

“fast”

They are quite different from the crepe-

crespelle from other regions.

Knead it

Eve.

in a

the flour with 6 tablespoons

and

salt;

bowl and

the resulting let rise

lukewarm water, egg,

dough should be

for about

1

hour.

soft.

Put

Heat several

inches of oil in a saucepan. Using a spoon or wet fingers

form hunks of dough ately into the hot

oil.

into rings

Fry

and put them immedi-

until light golden, drain

on

paper towels, and serve.

23

CROSTINI AL MIRTO

TOSCANA

MYRTLE CREAM CROSTINI This dish a

% cup fresh

myrtle berries Vi garlic clove

Vi

cup

(1

stick)

unsalted butter

2tbsp. olive

typical of Empoli.

The distinctive flavor of myrtle,

the coasts and islands,

is

somewhat

rosemary, and was once as

common

On the island of Sardinia,

sine.

like

that of juniper and

as pepper

in Italian cui-

used to make a famous

it’s

liqueur called mirto. oil

Slices of wholegrain bread, toasted Salt

is

Mediterranean evergreen shrub that grows commonly on

and pepper

Chop

together the berries and garlic. Work together with

the other ingredients to obtain a mixture with the prevalent

perfume and

Spread on

flavor of myrtle.

slices

of

toasted wholegrain bread.

CROSTINI ALLA PROVATURA

CROSTINI WITH ANCHOVIES

AND PROVATURA

CAMPANIA

Crostini have a long history in

unsalted butter

title of this

Zi

cup

(1

stick)

1

1

lb.

fior di latte

lb.

stale

bread

cheese (or provola) 3tbsp. milk 6 anchovies in

oil

Italy:

There are recipes for

back to the 1500s. The provatura

this dish that date

dish from

Campania

is

in

the

a kind of buffalo-milk

cheese, similar to mozzarella.

Preheat the oven to 45 CPF. Butter a

Cut the

ing dish. size

crust

tall,

from the bread

of a playing card. Cut the fior di

slices

of the same

latte (or

to

easily

provola) in

Arrange alternating layers of

size.

bread and cheese in the baking dish;

more

rectangular bak-

to create slices the

this

can be done

by threading them on a long wooden skewer

keep them together. Brush the crostini with cold milk.

Bake toasted. vies.

until the

cheese has softened and the bread

is

Meanwhile, heat the butter and add the ancho-

Cook

over low heat, stirring until the anchovies are

melted. Pour the mixture over the bread and cheese,

then

CROSTINI CON LE COZZE

MOLISE

let

CROSTINI WITH MUSSELS Heat an inch of olive slices

For the crostini: Olive

oil

CONTINUED

24

bake another minute and serve hot.

oil in

a high-sided pan.

of bread in the vinegar;

on a clean crunchy.

cloth.

Fry the bread

Remove them

set aside to

let

Dampen the

dry for several minutes

until

golden brown and

with a slotted spoon, drain, and

dry on paper towels.

Clean the mussels,

8 slices stale peasant-style bread

removing the beards, scraping them, and rinsing under

cup white wine vinegar

running water. Put them in a covered pot and cook them

Zi

over high heat until they open. Drain the mussels, preFor the mussels:

serving the liquid and discarding the

2 lbs. mussels

2tbsp. extra-virgin olive 2 garlic cloves, 1

the seasoning:

oil

saute the garlic

chopped

diavolillo (hot chili

their liquid

pepper;

and bay

see not$, page 22)

soon

2 bay leaves

%

flat-leaf

Add

diavolillo.

pan and

the mussels, a cup of

(add water as need to make a cup of liquid),

cook 5 minutes, then add the wine. As

leaves;

as the liquid has evaporated

add the

Ar-

parsley.

a ladleful of mussels with their cooking sauce

parsley

CROSTINI MILZA

1

D FEGATINI E 1

and

Prepare

shells.

olive oil in a

range the bread on individual plates, and pour over each

cup dry white wine

chopped

2 tbsp.

Heat 2 tablespoons

!

TOSCANA

and

serve.

CROSTINI

WITH LIVER AND SPLEEN This typical dish of Siena can also be

made without

the

spleen. 6oz. calfs spleen

Remove

3 chicken livers 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive Zi

medium 1

onion, finely

chopped

celery stalk, finely

chopped

Z3 cup

1

somewhat

large pieces.

in a

pan and saute the onion and

and

livers to the

pan.

Add

cooking, stirring often.

white wine 1

from the spleen and clean the

the skin

cut both into

oil

Heat the

celery.

Add

the spleen

and continue

the white wine

When

the wine has evaporated

add the broth and capers. Cook until the sauce has

cup broth

Remove

ened.

tbsp. capers, rinsed

Unsalted butter

the meats

livers;

olive oil

and

slice thinly.

thick-

Return them

to the

mixture and add a

taste.

Sprinkle the bread with lukewarm broth to soften

8 slices stale peasant-style bread,

slightly,

then spread the

little

slices

butter, salt,

and pepper

to

with the meat mixture.

toasted Salt

and pepper

CHICKEN-LIVER PATE

CROSTINI D PATE Dl FEGATINI 1

TOSCANA

1

CANAPES Rinse and clean the chicken until the liver

2 chicken livers 1

4 tbsp.

{Zi stick)

cup beef broth

unsalted butter,

and mix formed.

is

just

in the butter, salt,

Spread

livers.

Simmer

in the

broth

pink in the center. Crush with a fork

this

and capers

until a paste

is

mixture on small pieces of lightly

toasted peasant-style bread and decorate each with a

cut into small pieces 1

tsp.

chopped capers

parsley

leaf.

Slices of peasant-style bread, toasted Flat-leaf parsley leaves

Salt

25

CRUDO

D

CALAMARETTI

I

ABRUZZO

MARINATED SQUID This dish

typical of the fishermen of PeScara.

is

Put the squid and the onion 10 1

oz.

medium

small tender squid onion, thinly sliced

cup extra-virgin

Zi

with olive

oil,

vinegar,

and

in a bowl. Salt

pepper

chili

and season Let stand

flakes.

briefly before serving:

olive oil

cup red wine vinegar

Vi

Pinch

chili

pepper flakes Salt

ERBAZZONE

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

SPINACH PIE

6

FOR PERSONS

is typical of Reggio Emilia, where a rustic vegetable was long a traditional standby for picnics in the countryside, washed down with Lambrusco wine. Today, it also ap-

This dish pie

3 lbs. spinach or Swiss chard,

washed 4tbsp.

(1

unsalted butter

stick)

2 oz. lardo (see page 2) 1

medium 1

onion, finely diced

garlic clove,

minced

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 2tbsp. olive

A cups

2 1

oil

all-purpose flour,

plus

pears as an appetizer and

oz.

eaten

in

bars and cafes as a

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Steam the spinach or Swiss

chard in about

Zz

cup water

until wilted, drain, pat dry,

and chop. Heat the butter and the onion until soft; 5 minutes.

Cool and work

olive oil, salt,

lardo in a

add the spinach and in the

and cook

Parmigiano-Reggiano,

Use

and pepper.

pan and saute

garlic

the flour to prepare a

more as needed pasta

2

is

quick morning snack.

dough

as

on page

pancetta, minced

1

0,

using

Vz

cup water

in place

of the eggs. Roll out half the dough to form a sheet (see Salt

and pepper

note, page 212) to line a large pan; put the filling over

out the other half of the

this in a single thick layer. Roll

dough

to

filling,

pleating the

form

a sheet to cover

and place

dough

slightly

to

Decorate with the pancetta.

Bake

it

over the

create ripples.

until the surface

is

completely browned. Serve hot.

FARINATA

LIGURIA

CHICKPEA CREPE This dish

is

typical of

Whisk together 1%cups plus

chickpea

flour,

more as needed

a pinch of salt to 1

Olive

Spoon

form a thick off the

foam

%

cup water and

batter; set aside to rest

that will have

formed and

oil

CONTINUED

26

2 hours.

San Remo.

the chickpea flour with

through a

Preheat the oven

remix the

batter; pass

to 425°F.

Generously grease a baking sheet with

sieve.

olive

oil.

1

medium

minced

onion,

Salt

and pepper

Add

the batter, spreading

it

across the

LIGURIA

become

golden. Serve

plus

more as needed tsp. salt

1

Zi

cup

olive oil

The

final

product should possess the following sensory traits:

more than one-quarter

2 cups) to

make

flour, salt,

a soft

and

carefully

transferring

the olive

it

to a

and enough water (about

ZUCCHINI

PIEMONTE

a

Skim off the mixwooden spoon before grill.

copper baking pan. Cover evenly with

Bake

oil.

mix with

for 10 minutes, or until the surface

forms a golden crust. Serve

Dl

should be no

dough. Set aside for 4 hours.

Preheat a wood-burning oven or

ACCOCCOL ATI

It

of an inch thick with a soft interior

and crunchy surface.

Blend the chickpea

ture

FIORI

warm.

CHICKPEA FLATBREAD pleasing odor and tasty sui generis flavor.

6 cups chickpea flour,

wooden

with a

Bake for about 20 min-

few grindings of black pepper. utes, or until the crust has

FARINATA DEL TIGULLIO

oil

spoon. Sprinkle the onion over the surface along with a

warm on

heated plates.

STUFFED ZUCCHINI BLOSSOMS Heat half of the butter

in a

pan and cook the

veal

and

sausage meat until brown. In another pan heat the reFor the blossoms: 4 tbsp. O/2 stick) unsalted butter 7 oz. ground veal 4 oz. sausage meat, Vi

crumbled

cup chopped Swiss chard 2 baby zucchini

1

tbsp.

chopped aromatic herbs

(flat-leaf parsley,

bay

sage, rosemary,

leaf,

thyme

Crustless bread, softened

basil)

in

milk

and squeezed dry

maining butter and saute the Swiss chard. Simmer the zucchini in a

Combine

little

water until softened, then

migiano-Reggiano, and egg. Salt to

soms with in a pan.

slice thin.

the meats, chard, zucchini, herbs, bread, Par-

this

taste.

Stuff the blos-

mixture and arrange them upside

Separately

mix

the eggs

down

and milk and pour

over the stuffed blossoms (they will not be completely

covered)

.

Dot with

butter.

Cook

over high heat until

the sauce has thickened and the flowers are golden.

Serve hot.

2 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1

large egg, beaten

8 zucchini blossoms,

trimmed

For the sauce: 2 large eggs, beaten 1

tbsp. milk

2 tbsp. unsalted butter Salt

27

FOCACCIA

LIGURIA

FOCACCIA Combine the flour with the yeast, salt, and on page 13

instructed 3 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

more as needed

with a cloth and

oven

to 400°F.

make

to

a

cup water as

1

smooth dough. Cover Preheat the

3 hours.

let rise for at least

Grease a baking sheet with

olive

oil.

Roll

214 tsp. active dry yeast

the cup extra-virgin

1

dough

to

form

a sheet with a thickness of about

olive oil

Vs

Fennel seeds

inch and place on the baking sheet.

push down on the dough

form

to

Using the fingers

slight indentations in

Salt it.

Sprinkle with

salt, olive oil,

and fennel

seeds.

Bake for

about 20 minutes or until golden.

GUASTELLA

CALABRIA

FILLED FOCACCIA This dialect name, guastella, recalls the derivation of the

word gastel from cups all-purpose

3

plus

flour,

more as needed

214 tsp. active dry yeast, dissolved

a

in

1

little

oz.

lukewarm water

lardo (see page 2)

2 oz. dry spicy sausage, chopped 2 large hard-boiled eggs,

cut into

wedges

4 oz. provolone, cubed

4

oz.

pork

rind, boiled

and

sliced

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

Pepper

this version

is

Sift the flour

Old French. An excellent rustic focaccia,

prepared

Calabria on Easter Monday.

in

and form

into a well.

it

Work

water and the dissolved yeast to form an

Knead

for 5 to 6 minutes, cover,

place for about

dough

line

two

in

a baking

1

it

dough. a

let rise in

warm

has risen divide the

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease

parts.

pan with the

it; fill

when

hour;

and

enough

in

elastic

lardo

and use half of the dough

to

evenly with the sausage, eggs, provolone, and

pork rind. Sprinkle with pepper. Cover with the other half of the dough, using

make

level.

Dot with

damp hands

to press

down

to

butter and bake for about 30 min-

utes until golden.

FOCACCIA CON LA POLPA

Dl

OLIVA

LIGURIA

FOCACCIA WITH OLIVES Sift the flour

and form about half of

work surface or 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus

add

1

in a bowl.

cup of water. Knead

minutes, cover, and dissolved

in

warm water

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

CONTINUED

hours.

let rise in

a

it

into a well

in the yeast

form

a

on

a

mixture and

dough

for 5 to 6

warm place for about 214

When the dough has risen, form a well with the

remaining flour and put the risen dough in the middle of it.

Add

2 tablespoons olive

spoon water. Knead

28

to

more as needed

214 tsp. active dry yeast,

Yi

Pour

oil, olives, salt,

for about 6 minutes

and

and

1

table-

let rest

1

cup pitted small black Liguria), roughly

Preheat the oven to

covered for another 2Vi hours.

olives

(preferably Taggiasca olives

from

350°F. Grease a baking

pan with

olive

oil.

Roll out the

chopped

dough or

flatten

with your hands to a uniform thick-

it

Salt

ness. Sprinkle with the

about 20 minutes

remaining olive

and bake for

oil

until golden.

'

rf

PkTTEDDA CHICCHIULIATA

I

I

CALABRIA

FOCACCIA WITH OIL, TUNA, AND TOMATO Using the page

3 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

flour, yeast,

13. Place

it

in a

and water, prepare a dough

baking pan and

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

let rise for

Combine

1

on

as

hour.

the tomatoes and

more as needed

and cook over high heat; season with

olive oil

salt.

Mix in

1

2 /£tsp. active dry yeast 1

%

plum tomatoes, peeled and seeded

the tuna, anchovies, olives,

and capers.

ture over the risen dough,

and bake

Spread

this

mix-

lbs.

cup

olive oil

in oil,

drained

/a

6 oz. tuna

and cut

in

until golden.

for about

30 minutes

This focaccia can be served hot or cold.

small pieces

2 oz. anchovies,

boned

% cup pitted black olives, halved 2 tbsp. salted capers, rinsed Salt

I

PITTA CIU CASARICA

CALABRIA

I

FOCACCIA

WITH RICOTTA Work well.

1

1

lb.

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

bread dough (see page

oil

13)

2 tbsp. lard 1

cup

ricotta

4 oz. caciocavallo cheese, finely

the olive

6

into the

oil

dough and knead

Divide the dough into two parts, one

baking pan with

ing the

dough

to blend

slightly larger

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Grease a

than the other.

obtain 2 disks.

FQR PERSONS

1

tablespoon

Use

to extend half

Break up half the

lard. Roll

out the dough to

the larger one to line the pan, allow-

an inch over the

sides.

ricotta with the tines of a fork

and

sliced

spread 4 1

tbsp.

oz.

it

over the dough in the pan.

Add

the cacioca-

soppressata, sliced

chopped

vallo, soppressata, parsley, flat-leaf

sliced Salt

and

eggs.

Cover with the

re-

parsley

2 large hard-boiled eggs, thinly

and pepper

maining

ricotta

and sprinkle with

Place the remaining dough over

salt

this,

inward and brushing them with a

and pepper.

folding the edges

little

water to better

seal this large “pitta.” Pierce the surface with the tines of

a fork

and dot with the remaining

40 minutes or

lard.

Bake

for about

until golden.

29

FRIED SAGE LEAVES

SALVIADE

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

Combine

the flour, egg,

rest at least

A cup

2

all-purpose flour,

plus

1

and

salt to

Heat about

hour.

form

1

and

a batter

inch of olive

a

pan. Wash and dry the sage leaves, dip in the batter, and

more as needed

fry until golden. Serve immediately with a dash of 1

let

oil in

salt.

large egg, beaten

40 large sage leaves Olive oil

Salt

FORMAGGINO D PERANCHE

MARINATED TOMA CHEESE

1

VALLE D'AOSTA

This dish

is

typical of

Courmayeur

Whisk together the vinegar and Zi

cup white wine vinegar oil,

1

2 tbsp.

cup extra-virgin

chopped 1

garlic clove,

Pinch

olive oil

flat-leaf

chili

mixed; season with

crushed

Add

salt

Blanc.

Slowly drizzle in the

the other ingredients (exstir until

and pepper.

they are well

Arrange the toma

in a serving bowl, top with the mixture,

pepper flakes 1

whisking to emulsify.

cept the toma and bread) and

parsley

Mont

at the foot of salt.

and

let

marinate

for several hours, covered. Serve with bread.

sage leaf

2 celery stalks, chopped Pinch grated nutmeg 1

sprig

(mountain thyme

if

thyme

possible)

12 small rounds of fresh

toma

(can substitute unsalted goat’s-milk cheese)

Slices of toasted bread Salt

and pepper

FRITTATA COL SALAME

LOMBARDIA

1

SAUSAGE FRITTATA In

Milan this frittata

is

made

using raw salame, cut

pieces and added to the beaten eggs with a

Parmigiano-Reggiano. The soft, for

and

in

frittata

otherwise the salame

the area of Lomello this

will is

frittata is excellent with a salad

chicory and

30

new

onions.

in

little

small

grated

must be kept pale and change flavor. In Monza

made using luganega.

composed

of finely

This

chopped

Heat the butter

2 tbsp. unsalted butter 7 02

.

1

white wine and

let

it

pan over medium heat and

evaporate. Spread the sausage in an

even layer in the pan.

tbsp. dry white wine

Meanwhile combine the

Parmigiano-Reggiano, and

6 large eggs, beaten

salt

eggs,

and pepper. Reduce the

heat to low and pour the egg mixture over the sausage.

2 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Cook, carefully turning the

and pepper

Salt

in a cast-iron

saute the sausage meat. After about 3 minutes pour in the

sausage (preferably luganega), removed from the casings and crumbled

frittata

before

its

underside

becomes too browned. Serve warm.

I

FRITTATA CON

IL

GHIOZZO

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

I

FRITTATA

WITH WHITEBAIT This dish

is

typical of the area north of Trieste.

Heat V2 inch of Olive

10

oz.

oil

freshwater whitebait

(Gobius

cleaned

fluviatilis),

fish in flour

with

salt

oil in

6 large eggs, beaten

cup chopped

flat-leaf

parsley Salt

until hot.

fry quickly until golden.

and add the

a cast-iron

All-purpose flour

/}

pan

olive oil in a

and

fish

and

parsley.

pan over medium

egg mixture. Cook

until the

turn

before

bottom

Dredge

the

Season the eggs

Heat

heat,

is set,

% cup

olive

and add the then carefully

its

underside becomes too

browned and cook the other

side quickly, just until set.

the

frittata

Serve warm.

LOCAL TRADITION

FRITTATA CON LE ERBE This traditional herb frittata from Friuli-Venezia Giulia uses the buds of various plants

commonly eaten as cooked greens,

primarily bladder campion (Silene vulgaris),

long pricklyhead poppy (Papaver argemone), oregluzze (Lychuis abba), and hops. is

St.

popular

in

spring and

summer and

is

always prepared on June

24, the feast

It

day of

John.

31

FRITTATA

Dl

LUPPOLO

LOMBARDIA

HOPS FRITTATA Chop

the freshly gathered luvertis (hops) Heat half the .

butter over low heat and 2 cups luvertis (hops)

4tbsp.

(1

to give

stick) unsalted butter

6 large eggs, beaten

2tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

and pepper

them

add the hops. Saute very

flavor without frying, thus not

lose their very mild natural flavor

the eggs with salt and pepper

Heat the remaining butter

by

briefly

making them Season

boiling.

and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

in a cast-iron pan,

add the egg

mixture, and cook as on page 3 1 , topping with the sauteed hops toward the end of cooking.

FRITTATA Dl TARTUFI ALLA SPOLETINA

UMBRIA

TRUFFLE FRITTATA Thoroughly clean the

them with 7 oz. black truffles 5 large eggs, beaten

2tbsp. olive

oil

Salt

a cloth

ate

an even

finely chop, grinding the larger

Season the eggs with

pieces in a mortar. olive oil in a

pan and add the layer.

stirring with a

under running water. Dry

truffles

and

Add

salt.

eggs, tilting the

Heat the

pan

the truffles and cook the

wooden spoon.

to crefrittata,

Carefully turn the frittata

onto a plate and turn off the heat. Let stand for about

30 seconds, then serve.

LOCAL TRADITION

FRITTATA

Dl

VITALBA

This classic springtime frittata, typical of Garfagnana, has the flavor of asparagus and

uses the tips of young clematis, which grows wild tis tips

are washed, chopped, parboiled, and

hot pan with a

little

olive oil

and

garlic.

in

lightly

the

woods

of Tuscany. The clema-

floured before being cooked

To ensure a good, somewhat soft

egg whites are beaten separately, then combined with the yolks and to taste; up to 2 tablespoons of flour can be added, as well,

32

if

salt

desired.

frittata,

in

a

the

and pepper

FRITTATA PASQUALE

UMBRIA

EASTER FRITTATA The

and taste

sight, smell,

make

of this dish will

it

abun-

dantly clear that spring has finally arrived. Serve cold at Eas1

artichoke, outer leaves and

ter lunch. The serving dish can be garnished with leaves of

fu^y choke removed

the hearts of chicory around the edges, making a sort of big

Juice of

1

lemon

cup aromptic herbs

Zi

(Roman

mint, costmary,

marjoram, sage,

basil,

rosemary, mint, thyme) Zi

2

oz. 1

olive oil

sausage, crumbled pancetta, diced

oz.

blood sausage

Zr

3 Zi

cup

medium

lemon

in water acidulated with

blending with 2 tablespoons olive

Heat 2 tablespoons sage, pancetta,

olive oil in a

oil to

in a mortar,

form

a

mush.

pan and cook the sau-

and blood sausage; add the spinach and

arugula. In a separate pan, heat 2 tablespoons olive

and saute the onion and

garlic.

Remove

the garlic

oil

when

heat to low.

onion,

stalks

minced clove

chopped

Add

the sausage and herb mixtures to the

onion mixture and cook

low heat, adjusting for

at

salt

and pepper. Remove from heat and add the salame. Add to the eggs

and mix

in a cast-iron

making flat-leaf

oz.

and place

Grind the aromatic herbs

juice.

blond and add the artichoke and asparagus. Reduce the

woody ends trimmed,

1

for the frittata in the center.

4 oz. spinach

A few stalks asparagus,

bunch

room

Slice the artichoke

cups arugula

Zi garlic

1

daisy, with

it

Heat 2 tablespoons

well.

pan and cook the

thick

and

frittata as

olive oil

on page 31,

soft.

parsley

salame, diced

4 large eggs, beaten Salt

and pepper

FRITTATA ROGNOSA

1

PIEMONTE

SALAME FRITTATA Season the eggs with Reggiano. Heat the

5 large eggs, beaten 2 tbsp. grated

salame. sides, as

Add

oil in

the eggs.

on page

salt,

1

pepper, and Parmigiano-

a cast-iron

Cook

pan and saute the

well, turning to

cook both

31

Parmigiano-Reggiano 2 tbsp. olive 4 oz.

salame

(pork sausages covered

d’la

oil

duja

in lard),

crumbled Salt

and pepper

33

FRITTATA ROGNOSA

SALAME FRITTATA

2

VENETO

Season the eggs with a

4 large eggs, beaten

pan heat the

salt;

olive oil

2

add the salame and

golden add the egg mixture and cook

4 oz. salame, minced

parsley. In

and cook the onion; when

just

low heat as on

at

page 3 1 Serve hot. .

2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tbsp. olive

medium

1

onion,

oil

chopped Salt

FRITTATA ROGNOSA DEL GARDA

VENETO

;

I

FRITTATA

WITH GROUND MEAT Boil the celery in water to cover for at least 30 minutes, drain, then finely chop.

1

celery stalk

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

1

tbsp. unsalted butter

large onion, finely

2 oz.

A

oil

smoked

chopped

pancetta, diced

ground meat (pork or mixed beef, veal, and salame)

Add the

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Heat

tablespoon of the olive

salt to taste.

40 minutes.

for

1

oil

pan and saute the celery and onion.

in a

pancetta and

and cook

Add

the

ground meat

In a large bowl, beat the eggs

Add the cooked

together with the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

ingredients to the egg mixture. Heat the remaining olive

lb.

5 large fresh eggs, beaten 'A

and the butter

oil in

a

pan and add the egg mixture. When

on one

side turn

it

it

has cooked

over onto a lightly greased hot plate.

Let stand for 30 seconds and serve on warmed

plates.

Salt

FRITELLE

Dl

ACCIUGHE

CALABRIA

ANCHOVY FRITTERS Put the flour eled

6/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus

in a terra-cotta pan, preferably a fully

pan with

ture, a

flaring sides (a bavanu).

dash of

salt,

lukewarm water,

until

it is

very

soft;

continue for another

dry yeast,

lukewarm water

10 oz. salt-cured anchovies

30 minutes, beating the dough to make the

dough with a

Olive oil for frying

move

Salt

them. of

the bones

oil in

the

cloth

and

let it rise

stringy.

Cover

4 or 5 hours.

Re-

it

from the anchovies, clean them, and chop

When the dough has risen, heat a couple of inches a pan, grease your hands with

dough (about

1

procedure

until the

oil,

tablespoon), elongate

of anchovy, enclose

34

and blend. Work the dough, adding

more as needed

Yi oz. active

diluted in 2 tbsp.

enam-

Add the yeast mix-

it,

and

dough

it,

take a

fry until golden.

is

little

of

insert a piece

Repeat

used up. Serve very hot.

this

LOCAL TRADITION

FRITTELLE Blue sea

mante

in

ANEMONI

Dl

MARE

Dl

anemones appear so commonly along the coast running from Cirella to Diathe spring and autumn that the reefs seem to turn blue in the early morning

hours. The

anemones themselves have gelatinous bodies

strong heat of a sunny day. This recipe for sea

based on an older one used by the

local

anemone

that nearly dissolve

salt,

and pepper are combined

simple batter for the fresh anemones, which should

The

olive oil to

a

reef.

make

and served simply sprinkled with

fritters are fried until golden, drained,

BIANCHETTI

Dl

make

and pepper.

I

FRITTELLE

to

be fragrant from the

still

A couple of tablespoons of the battered anemones are added to hot

salt

the

fishermen at Diamante, where the anemones

are known as jujime. Flour, eggs, parsley,

fritters.

in

fritters, typical of Calabria, is

CALABRIA

I

BIANCHETTI FRITTERS

6

Bianchetti are tiny white fish

FOR PERSONS

an almost larval state (neo-

in

nates, hence they are called nunnate in the area around 1

1

4 cups

flour, plus

2 tbsp. 1

chopped lb.

more as needed flat-leaf

parsley

bianchetti (whitebait) Olive

oil

Salt

for frying

and pepper

Reggio, rosamarina

In a bowl, x

/z

mix the

cup water

icately

Heat

the province of Cosenza).

to create a

wash the 1

in

flour, salt, parsley,

smooth

bianchetti

inch of olive

and

oil in a

and pepper, adding

batter. Carefully

fold

them

pan and

FRITTELLE FARINA Dl CECI

Dl

LIGURIA

salt

and serve

cups chickpea

plus 1

flour,

more as needed

on paper

towels.

hot.

CHICKPEA-FLOUR FRITTERS Mix % cup water into the

chickpea flour to obtain a thick

dough; add the yeast and 1 V-i

del-

fry tablespoons of

the fish batter until golden, then drain

Sprinkle with

and

into the batter.

set aside to rest overnight.

Knead

the

ram.

Heat three inches of olive

dough

well, salt to taste,

and add the marjo-

oil in a

heavy pan

until

tsp. active dry yeast

hot but not smoking.

One by one form

the

dough

into

Pinch fresh marjoram, finely chopped

roughly 3 -inch balls and fry in olive Extra-virgin olive

oil

oil.

Serve hot.

for frying Salt

35

S

LOCAL TRADITION

FRITTELLE This dish Italian

typical of the valley of the

is

name

for feverfew

mum. According this dish

is

MARESINA

Dl

Agno and Chiampo

(Chrysanthemum parthenium),

to the quantity of

of the meal.

maresina used, and whether

involves rice cooked until

It

fried in olive

it

is

is

an

is

bitter or sweet, at the

mushy, then combined with eggs,

end

milk,

formed and deep-

oil.

I

M IXE D F RIED VE GE T A BL E This dish

SICILIA

is

Combine 4 K2 cups all-purpose flour,

doons.

pan

4 artichokes lb.

lb.

1

Heat several inches of

until hot.

batter,

fresh anchovies

to

make

a batter with

olive oil in a high-sided

One by one immerse

then fry in olive

oil until

the vegetables in the

golden. Drain on paper

towels and serve hot.

2 apples, peeled and cored 1

and yeast

Clean and chop the artichokes,

clean the anchovies, slice the apples, and slice the car-

4 large eggs, beaten

214 tsp. active dry yeast

1

typical of Piazza Armerina.

the flour, eggs,

a fluid consistency.

more as needed

plus

cardoons, boiled

small cauliflower,

and blanched were once used)

in florets

(veal brains

Olive 1

oil

tbsp. salt

FUNGHI AL GUAZZETTO

EMILIA-ROMAGNA /2 lbs.

porcini 1

mushrooms garlic clove

I

MUSHROOMS

IN

BROTH

If possible

use only the caps of porcini

Borgotaro

(in

mushrooms from

Parma); or use as few stems as possible.

Scrape clean the ends of the stems and clean the mush-

room caps with

CONTINUED all

36

it

a dough. Flat-shaped fritters are

FRITTO MISTO alla piazzese

1

Veneto. Maresina

used as an appetizer or side dish to meat or even as a dessert

and chopped maresina to make

cut

in

a sort of wild chrysanthe-

a

damp

cloth.

Never use water,

least

of

running water: The mushrooms would lose the patina

1

cup chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

that covers them,

cup

olive oil

and aroma.

Va 1

skimmed

cup meat broth, if necessary

the

it

they would lose their flavor

pepper; do not mince too

2tbsp. unsalted butter

on

terra-cotta pot

and pepper

Chop

cleaned mushrooms.

together the garlic and- parsley, adding a

of fat

Salt

and with

Slice

little salt

Using,

finely.

if

a cast-iron stove, heat the olive oil

over low heat and saute the garlic mixture.

mushrooms, and when they have given up add the broth and

and

possible, a

butter.

Cook until

the

Add

the

their water,

mushrooms

are

soft.

FUNGHI CON

I

MUSHROOMS WITH TOMATOES

POMODORI

CALABRIA

Delicately clean the film.

%

vavusi (Suillus luteus)

lb.

mushrooms

medium

A

mushrooms, eliminating the outer Heat the

oil in

an earthenware pot

and cook the mushrooms and the onion. 1

3

in pieces.

After about

(can substitute porcini)

2tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

Cut

lb.

1

0 minutes add the tomatoes with their seeds and sauce,

oil

diavolillo, onion, finely

chopped

diavolillo,

cut

in

and

salt.

When

cooked, add the

basil.

Serve

with bread.

plum tomatoes, peeled pieces

(see note, page 22)

Several basil leaves, torn up Peasant-style bread, sliced

and toasted Salt

LOCAL TRADITION

GELATINA This recipe for gelatin from Calabria

dinner

in

was

typically served as

2 pig’s ears, a

smoked pork shank,

1

veal

tongue (with holes), and

are simmered gently for 6 hours, while salting to create a broth; after about

As

much

an appetizer for Easter

the area around Trieste. A veal hoof (with hide), a beef hoof (without hide),

garlic as

is

Vh

hours some

lightly

1

pound

of lean beef

and constantly skimming

fat,

white wine vinegar should be added.

desired per person, sliced hard-boiled eggs, and a bay leaf (for

decoration) are then portioned into individual bowls, and topped with the hot

The gelatin should be chilled

until

it

liquid.

has set completely.

37

FRIED BREAD

GNOCCO FRITTO EMILIA-ROMAGNA

In

Parma

this

called a “fried cake.” Serve

fe

sliced prosciutto di 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus

Combine

Parma or

with thinly

it

salumi.

the flour, yeast, baking powder, 2 tablespoons

more as needed

and

lard,

salt

with enough milk as on page

1

make

3 to

a

2Zi tsp. active dry yeast

soft 1

tsp.

dough and

room temperature. 2 tbsp. lard, plus

for about

let it rise

1

hour, covered, at

baking powder

more

Roll out the

dough

to a thickness

for frying

cup lukewarm milk, plus more as needed

of about

%

pan and

fry the dough, turning, until golden.

inch, cut in squares.

Heat

1

inch of lard in a

1

GRANSEOLA

SPIDER CRAB CANAPES

ALLA TRIESTINA

This appetizer

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

terms of 1

medium

1

Chopped

tbsp.

flat-leaf

Boil

chopped

onion, finely

1

tbsp. olive

Slices of bread,

in a

lemon

based on the traditional

is

special

method and

remove the meat over

also.

Mix

the

I

This dish

is

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

salt,

dissolved

translu-

of warm bread.

typical of Turin.

as

on page

13.

oil,

Knead

a

little

at least

Divide the dough into 12 pieces and

let

oil

few minutes. Form the pieces into oblong

rolls.

tsp. active dry yeast, in

A cup warm water

Set

them out on

Semolina flour

and

let

3

Salt

them rise

a

damp

for

1

surface, flatten

hour.

them by hand,

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

dough By hand,

Sprinkle a baking sheet with semolina. Cut the into strips

and

draw each out crisp

38

slices

and the yeast mixture

rest for a 1

is

the all-purpose flour with the olive

30 minutes. 1

is

Heat the butter

BREADSTICKS Combine

cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

liquid.

add the breadcrumbs and saute briefly until golden.

Spread the mixture on

2

when cool enough

bowl so the liquid

Remove from the heat, and add the crab meat and liquid. Mix in the parsley, lemon juice and zest, and olive oil.

oil

PIEMONTE

meat and

a

pan and add the onion. When the onion

cent,

warmed

GRISSINI

Istrian cuisine in

for the characteristic flavor

based on the sweet taste of the crustacean.

carefully clean the spider crab;

reserved

parsley as desired 1

and

to handle,

breadcrumbs

Juice and grated zest of

its

of the mixture,

spider crab

tbsp. unsalted butter

1

Zi

Drain on

paper towels and serve hot.

Salt

set

them out on

the semolina.

to at least 12 inches in length.

and golden, about 10 minutes.

Bake

until

MUSHROOM AND

INSALATA TARTUFI

FUNGHI

Dl

TRUFFLE SALAD

E

PIEMONTE

Mix

the olive

lemon

oil,

ertra-virgin olive

Juice of

1

oil

chovies and

lemon

Remove

Yolks of 2 large hard-boiled eggs 2 tbsp.

chopped

%

lb.

fresh pepper,

mushrooms

ovolo

and

(Caesar’s, or royal, or any good,

mushroom)

firm 1

and

truffle pick

yolks, then

push

the parsley and an-

homogenous

sauce.

clean the truffle and shave with

mushrooms and

the

salt,

stir delicately

up the

add

a

truffle to the

few grindings of

so that the

mushrooms

flavors without breaking.

Let

stand for a few minutes before serving.

white truffle

Salt

INSALATA

Add

sauce in the bowl, taste for

boned, and finely chopped

Add

from the stems of the mushrooms

finely;

a truffle sheer.

2 anchovies, cleaned,

well.

together to obtain a

the film

and chop them

parsley

flat-l^af

stir

and egg

juice,

through a sieve and blend

A cup

2

and pepper

MAI ALE

Dl

MOLISE

1

PORK SALAD Clean the ears and

trotters,

scraping well with the blade

of a knife and burning off remaining bristles with a 2 pig’s ears 2 pig’s trotters /a

cup white wine vinegar

chopped

2 garlic cloves,

chopped

2 stalks white celery,

Juice of 1

Salt

1

cup

lemon

olive oil

and black pepper

(optional)

INSALATA

MARE

Dl

1

CAMPANIA

Wash

flame.

carefully

cover, season with salt

and place

and while

serving plate and season juice, olive oil,

still

warm

1

lb.

clams (or lupinior 1

medium

onion,

telline

chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped 2 carrots, 1

1

chopped

sprig fresh rosemary sprig fresh

marjoram

to

if

and

trotters

arrange them on a

them with the

and,

garlic, celery,

desired, a grinding of

pepper.

SEAFOOD SALAD This dish

is

1

6

FOR persons

typical of Salerno.

Clean the mussels and rinse them 2 lbs. mussels

add water

When fully cooked, chop the ears

2 hours.

in small pieces,

lemon

in a pot;

and vinegar, and simmer for about

well.

Put them

in

water to cover in a large covered pot without seasoning

and cook over high heat

to

make them open,

setting

aside the cooking liquid. Repeat with the clams.

move

the mussels

empty

shells in a

and clams from

their shells.

Re-

Put the

pan with a quart of water and add the

onion, celery, carrots, rosemary, marjoram, and thyme;

bring to a boil, then simmer for 20 minutes.

CONTINUED shells

from the broth and

discard.

Add

Remove

the

the shrimp to

39

sprig

1

1

1

1

lb.

squid, cleaned

lb.

thyme

the broth

from

baby shrimp

lb.

baby octopus

and cut

in

squid. Drain

1

2 tbsp.

squid,

lemon, or to taste

chopped

tard,

chopped

2 garlic cloves,

flat-leaf

3

minutes, then remove them

through cheesecloth.

them and cut the octopus

large serving plate

oil

2 tsp. strong French mustard

Juice of

for

In the strained broth^simmer the cleaned octopus and

rings

% cup extra-virgin olive

and simmer

their shells. Filter the broth

and octopus.

lemon

On a

in pieces.

combine the mussels, clams, shrimp,

Whisk together

the olive

oil,

and pepper.

juice, garlic, parsley, salt,

mus-

Mix

the seafood with the dressing, cover, and chill for at least

parsley

30 minutes before serving.

and pepper

Salt

LOCAL TRADITION

INSALATA Typical of Val Pellice

D

GALLINA COTTA NEL FIENO

I

Piedmont, this recipe for an old hen cooked with May hay called

in

simmering onion, carrots,

for

celery, sage, bay leaves,

create a flavorful broth. To this all

is

added a cup

and rosemary with the hay to

of dry white

wine and a hen and then

are cooked together over low heat for about 3 hours. The meat

the hen and shredded, then dressed with

and

is

salt,

pepper, walnut

traditionally served with a salad of potatoes

INSALATA

MARE

Dl

2

SICILIA

*

and

oil,

is

removed from

and a

little

vinegar,

chervil.

SEAFOOD SALAD

2

Simmer the octopus and squid

6

separately in lighdy salted

water to cover. Separately boil the shrimp 3

A

3

A

1

3

A

octopus

lb.

lb.

lb.

lb.

%

squid

shrimp

mussels lb.

clams

Olive

oil

White wine vinegar 2 celery stalks, chopped 9 cups mixed salad greens Salt

40

and pepper

FOR PERSONS

in lightly salted

water to cover. Put the mussels and clams in a pan over high heat, cover, and cook until they open. heat, preserving the liquid, shells.

Remove from

and remove and discard the

Drain the octopus and shrimp; cut the octopus in

small pieces and the squid in rings.

Arrange

seafood on a serving plate and drizzle with salt; filter a little

and clams and sprinkle

the celery

all

the

vinegar,

of the cooking liquid from

pepper, and the mussels

Add

oil,

and salad greens.

it

Chill

over the seafood.

and

serve.

LOCAL TRADITION

INSALATA

D

I

NERVETTI

down until they awayjrom the bone. The meat is then put into a container under pressure so that, when cooled, it forms a single mass that can then be sliced. In this salad from Lombardy, the nervetti are usually sliced thinly and seasoned with some thinly sliced Nervetti are tendons from a veal or beef hoof that have been cooked

fall

onion (soaked

and chopped

INSALATA

Dl

in

cold water to lose their sharpness), lemon juice or vinegar, olive

oil,

flat-leaf parsley.

RICE SALAD WITH ANCHOVIES

RISO

NOVARESE

PIEMONTE

This dish

is

typical of Novara,

near Lago Maggiore.

Boil the rice in lightly salted water to cover until al dente, 2 cups Arborio rice Va

cup extra-virgin 1

drain,

olive oil

in a

garlic clove

chopped

flat-leaf

chovies until they

parsley

and

Juice of 2 lemons Salt

LOMBARDIA

cool.

4

oz.

sausage meat

2 oz. ground beef, cooked 1

1

tbsp.

garlic clove,

chopped

chopped

flat-leaf 1

parsley

large egg

2 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Zi

cup

(1

stick)

unsalted butter

CONTINUED

Pour the

to cool.

garlic

olive oil

and anchovies; turn on

become mushy. Remove from heat

Pour the anchovy mixture over the juice.

grindings of fresh black pepper,

I

Let

this cool,

salt to taste,

rice

and

add a few

and

serve.

PORK ROLL-UPS Polenta

is

the ideal accompaniment for this dish. To flatten

the pork loins, 2 pork loins

bowl

add the parsley and lemon

and black pepper

INTINGOLO CON FAGIOLI

set aside in a

the heat to low and, without frying them, cook the an-

4 fresh anchovies, cleaned and boned 2 tbsp.

and

saucepan and add the

of the

it

may be

easiest to first sprinkle the surface

meat with water. Then cover with

plastic wrap,

use a heavy mallet, or the underside of a heavy iron to

pound to a

Slice the flat.

V*

pork

inch thickness. loins into medallions

Lay them out on

meat, ground beef,

Reggiano.

garlic, parsley, egg,

roll

it

and pound them

Mix

a surface.

Place a dollop of this

each pork loin and

the pork loins.

the sausage

and Parmigiano-

filling at

the

end of

up, tying each one closed with

kitchen twine. Heat the butter and olive

brown

and

skillet,

Add

oil in

a pot

and

broth to cover them.

41

2 tbsp. olive

Beef broth,

Reduce

oil

warmed

1

CARNE TON NAT

I

30 minutes and serve warm.

Chop

white bread, crust removed 10 salt-cured anchovy 1

1

fillets

them

tbsp. capers

lemon

tbsp. olive

lb.

juice,

and

olive

Divide

oil.

this

mixture

up. In a blender

combine the tuna, the remaining

capers, anchovies, broth and mayonnaise. Blend just until a

oil

chunky sauce forms. Cover the beef

mixture and sprinkle with parsley.

this

A

v

among the beef slices, spread into an even layer, then roll

Juice of 2 lemons

3

.

the bread in a blender with 6 anchovies, half of the

capers, slice

30 minutes,

BEEF ROLL-UPS WITH TUNA SAUCE

I

PIEMONTE 1

for at least

tomato paste

tbsp.

INVOLTINI D

and cook

the heat to low

then add the beans and tomato paste. Let cook another

2 cups cooked borlotti beans

slices

with

Cover and

re-

thinly sliced roast beef

frigerate until just before serving. 3 oz.

canned tuna, drained 3 tbsp. broth

cup mayonnaise

Vi

Chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

LOCAL TRADITION

LARDO The lard (actually lardo, but written d’Aosta

is

especially famous.

It

is

brine with aromatic herbs. Given

in

D

I

ARNAD

French,)

made

in

the town of Arnad

treated and flavored by being soaked its

high price this lardo

is

not used

in

in

the Val

in a

special

cooking, but

only as an appetizer typical of the Valdostan area. With a highly delicate flavor, especially soft, literally melting

in

LATTE BRUSCO

LIGURIA

the mouth.

I

It

is

eaten raw, cut into thin

Whisk

the flour into the milk; add a

^ emon i

plus

more as needed

will

CONTINUED

42

is

FRIED MILK then the eggs. Pass

% cup all-purpose flour,

it

slices.

this

zest ancj pars i e y.

be decidedly

good dash of

salt,

mixture through a sieve and add

liquid, for

Cook about

1

this

mixture, which

hour over low heat

4 cups milk

(or in a water bath)

4 large eggs, beaten

Grated zest of 2 tbsp.

chopped

Tf

1

1

oil,

lemon

into 1-inch cubes.

parsley

hot. Beat the

Olive

oil

egg white,

large egg white

Serve hot.

flat-leaf

.

Grease a high-sided bowl with

add the mixture, and Heat

inch of olive

1

pan

oil in a

olive

Cut

refrigerate until firm.

it

until

egg white until frothy. Dip the cubes in the

roll in

the breadcrumbs,

and

fry until golden.

Breadcrumbs Salt

LISOGNI

LIGURIA

I

FRIED POTATO DUMPLINGS This dish

is

typical of the Val Bormida. As a variation, you can

add chopped parsley; you can also add, 2 lbs. top-quality potatoes 1

cup all-purpose flour, plus more as needed 2 tbsp. milk 1

garlic clove,

minced

cup

olive oil

1

if

desired, the crum-

bled yolk of an egg.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Peel and boil the potatoes, put

them through work

a food mill,

Knead

surface.

and

flour, milk,

flatten

salt to create

Cut

a long loaf.

Salt

and shape

until

turn and bake on the other.

Heat the

hot, arrange

oil

many

on the

Shape

As soon

into

it

and

small pieces

golden on one

them on

and add the

olive oil

blond. Pour the

a firm dough.

the loaf into

them by hand. Bake

and piping

into a well

the potatoes together with the

side,

then

as they are ready,

a serving plate in layers. garlic,

cooking

just until

over the dumplings and serve.

LOCAL TRADITION

MAMMELLA In

MUCCA

Dl

ancient Rome, the udders of various animals were considered delicacies. This

dish for brined udders, typical of Val d’Aosta and

most often served as an appetizer,

can be tasted during the Feast of the Tetin (udder), held every year found

in

some

specialty food shops. To prepare

divided into several pieces, and layered garlic, fresh sage,

that for at least is

and bay

leaves.

in a

it,

at Gignod,

wooden container with coarse sea

salt,

The mixture should be covered and weighted so

two weeks the udders remain immersed within the briny

produced. After such time, the meat

udders are then cooked

and

several cows’ udders are cleaned,

is

removed and

again for a couple of hours

and

left

hanging to

dry.

liquid that

The dried

sliced.

43

WINEMAKER-STYLE

LUMACHE ALLA VIGNAIOLA

PIEMONTE

1

SNAILS Clean the about

2 dozen snails

2tbsp. olive

oil

2 tbsp. unsalted butter 1

oz.

2),

chopped

onion,

chopped

1

garlic clove,

chopped

1

celery stalk, chopped

lardo (see page 1

medium

1

snails

and

them

boil

in water to cover for

hours. When they are cool, remove

54

their shells, cut off the intestinal sack,

Heat the

olive oil

and butter

in a

them from

and dry them.

pan and add the

onion, garlic, celery, sage leaves, and parsley. snails

and

saute.

Add

the anchovy and

lardo ,

Add

the

let it dissolve,

then add the red wine and tomato puree, then add the flour.

Simmer

the sauce at high heat for 10 minutes to

thicken; season with salt

and pepper

to taste.

2 sage leaves 2 tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf 1

2 tbsp. red

parsley

anchovy

wine (preferably Barbera) 1

tbsp.

tomato puree

tbsp. all-purpose flour

1

Salt

and pepper

MACCHERONCINI NEL "MACCU” FRITTO SICILIA

PASTA AND FAYA-BEAN CUBES Made

maccu

of dried fava beans,

cooking of the Syracuse area. 1

cups dried fava beans

Yi

1

Roughly

Zi lb.

sprig wild fennel

small macaroni,

preferably

homemade

Extra-virgin olive

oil

4 tbsp. all-purpose flour Salt

and pepper

stages:

In

Its

is

typical of the

peasant

preparation involves two

the evening of one day the favas and macaroni are

cooked; the slicing and frying of the cubes takes place the next day.

The

night before, begin cooking the fava beans and the

Cook

fennel in lightly salted water just to cover.

until the

beans become a dense puree. This requires patience, with

Re-

constant stirring to keep the mixture from sticking.

move the sprig of fennel and pour in macaroni, basing the quantity on what, “to an expert eye,” the quantity of re-

maining liquid

will cook.

Season with pepper generously.

Grease a rectangular baking pan with the macaroni are cooked

al

olive

oil.

As soon

as

dente transfer them along

with the fava puree to the pan; the layer should be no

more than

half an inch thick. Refrigerate overnight.

You’ll find that the next solidified

into small squares.

them

day the fava-bean maccu will have

around its macaroni “prisoners.” Heat

1

in the flour, then fry

inch of olive

them

Slice the

oil in

maccu

a pan.

until golden. They

Dip

can be

eaten hot or cold; you’ll find that both their fragrance and flavor are surprisingly good.

44

MOCCETTA SU CROSTINI D

I

PANE

VALLE D'AOSTA

CURED CHAMOIS ON CROSTINI Work nous

Vi

cup

(1

stick)

unsalted butter Va

the butter

and honey together

Spread

paste.

to

form a homoge-

over slices of black bread. Place

this

and

a slice of moccetta over each

serve.

cup honey

(preferably unrefined

Valdostan honey) 8 slices of black rye bread, slightly stale Zi lb.

chamois moccetta (cured

meat, similar to prosciutto), finely sliced

MOUSSE

D

PROSCIUTTO

I

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

PROSCIUTTO MOUSSE Grind the prosciutto plates of a

2 lbs. prosciutto cotto Zt

cup brandy

in the

several times in gradually smaller

meat grinder

to

make

it

almost creamy.

pepper and brandy, then gently fold

in the

cream. Line a baking dish with aluminum

foil

Mix

whipped or

waxed

4/2 cups cream, whipped

paper, pour in the mixture, and refrigerate overnight.

4 large hard-boiled eggs,

Before serving, overturn onto a plate and garnish with

sliced into

rounds

hard-boiled eggs. Pepper

LOCAL TRADITION MIGLI ACCIO The name of this baked blood pudding, which

from the word millet let

miglio,

meaning

“millet."

was combined with the blood

Cakes

is

typical of Arezzo

like this

in

Tuscany, comes

date to ancient times,

of a freshly slaughtered pig

when

and baked. The

mil-

has dropped out of most such recipes, replaced by other grains but leaving the

name. The

pig’s blood

this evolution). In this

has also disappeared (see page 76 for another example of

Tuscan version, a few cups of blood were mixed with an egg,

Parmigiano-Reggiano, breadcrumbs, fennel seeds, a per. This mixture

baked

until

was spread out

the migliaccio

to

became

little

pork

form a layer no more than softly set like

salt

and pep-

inch thick

and then

fat, 1

and

custard and detached easily from

the bottom of the pan.

45

LOCAL TRADITION

MISSOLTINI ALLA GRATELLA In

the central area of Lake

Como

Lombardy, at Lecco, and

in

in all

the small lakes of

the Pian d’Erba, agoni, a variety of shad, are fished during their spawning season and

hung out

to dry in the sun on triangular trestles. Missoltini are agoni that have been

gutted and then arranged

in

regular rows with bay leaves and pressed under wooden

boards on which weights are placed. This way of preserving called "far la missolta, "which ditional preparation

is

is

fish in

to cook the missoltini on a grate over a fire,

burning, being careful to keep

Como

dialect

is

the derivation of the final product: missoltini. The tra-

them from burning.

be served with a sprinkling of extra-virgin olive

oil

if

possible wood-

After grilling, the missoltini

would

and vinegar. Sliced polenta makes

the ideal side dish, or they also go well with finely sliced fresh chicory seasoned with oil

and vinegar.

FRIED MOZZARELLA

MOZZARELLA CARROZZA

SANDWICH

IN

LAZIO

This dish

Cut the 8 slices stale peasant-style bread

is

typical of

Rome and

Lazio.

crust off the slices of bread, then dip

milk, but only briefly to soften them.

them

in the

Create sand-

about 6 inches long

wiches, putting two slices of mozzarella and two anchovy

2 cups milk

fillets

in each. Press

8 slices mozzarella

8 salt-cured anchovy

well.

Heat

Vi

down

to

inch of olive

make

oil in a

the slices adhere

pan.

Mix

the eggs

fillets

with 2 tablespoons milk, dip the sandwiches in the egg Extra-virgin olive

oil

mixture, then dredge in the flour. Fry the sandwiches,

2 large eggs, beaten 1

A

turning so they brown on both sides. Serve hot.

cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

OLIVE ALL’ASCOLANA

MARCHE

I

STUFFED OLIVES possible, use large pits with a

sharp

and tender Ascolan

knife,

making a

tom without breaking them; the

olives.

spiral cut

Remove the

from top to

with a wide variety of mixtures, such as the one here.

46

bot-

resulting hollow can be filled

Extra-virgin olive 1

1

1

Heat 2 tablespoons

oil

carrot, cut into 3 pieces

carrot, celery,

celery stalk, cut into 3 pieces

medium

onion, cut into 4

salt

wedges

Vi lb.

chicken 1

Zi

tbsp.

livdr,

Add

and make

and onion and

cleaned

tomato puree

a filling

mixture into the

and

fat.

1

add the meats and and

the chicken liver

finely

lemon

olives,

inch olive

chop the meats. Add

zest, a hint

of nutmeg, Stuff

which should become

oil in

to-

remove the

by adding the soaked bread.

this

Heat

saucepan and add the

saute;

the meats are cooked,

the cheeses, half the eggs,

loin

boneless chicken

Vi lb. 1

pork

to taste.

When

carrot, celery,

beef chuck

Zi lb.

and pepper

mato puree.

studded with 2 cloves each

olive oil in a

and onion and

Dip

a pan.

large

the olives in

the remaining egg, then breadcrumbs, then fry until

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

golden. Serve immediately.

’/3cup grated pecorino

2 large eggs, beaten

Grated zest of

1

lemon

Pinch grated nutmeg 1

1

lb.

cup crustless bread, soaked in broth and squeezed dry

(or%

olives

lb.

pitted olives)

Breadcrumbs Salt

and pepper

I

OVOLI E TARTUFI

PIEMONTE

I

CAESAR’S MUSHROOMS WITH TRUFFLES

lb.

ovolo

mushrooms

reserving

1

mushrooms and

them

in thin

whole mushroom for garnish.

Stick

Carefully clean the slices,

1

cut

the garlic clove onto the end of a fork.

Combine

the

(Amanita caesarea) olive oil, 1

lemon

juice, salt

and pepper, chopped

parsley,

garlic clove

anchovy, and egg yolks in a bowl; use the fork with the Zs

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

garlic to beat the mixture. Juice of

1

sliced 1

tbsp.

chopped flat-leaf parsley, plus whole parsley leaves for garnish 1

Pour

this dressing

over the

lemon

mushrooms on

shavings of the white

mushroom and

a serving plate truffle.

and cover with

Garnish with the whole

parsley.

anchovy, minced

2 hard-boiled egg yolks 7 oz. white Alba truffle Salt

and pepper

47

D

I

PADELLATA FUNGHI SILANI

CALABRIA

PAN-COOKED MUSHROOMS Mushrooms prepared

this

way can be served hot or

Clean the mushrooms, dry mushrooms, preferably

2 lbs.

Heat the

olive oil in a

"coppulini" (Lepiota procera,

known

in

English as "parasol"

mushrooms), vavusi

(Suillus luteus),

in a cloth,

and cut

pan and cook the

garlic

cold.

in pieces.

and mush-

rooms; after about 15 minutes add the tomatoes, pepper, oregano,

basil,

and

chili

parsley. Salt only at the end.

porcini, rositi (Lactarius deliciosus),

and

ditole

A cup

2

(Ram aria aurea)

extra-virgin olive

oil

3 garlic cloves, slivered

%

lb.

plum tomatoes, chopped Pinch

chili

pepper flakes Pinch oregano

A few 1

tbsp.

chopped

basil leaves

flat-leaf

parsley Salt

LOCAL TRADITION

MOSTARDA

CARPI

Dl

Typical of Emilia-Romagna, this thick, slow-cooked fruit

and cotechino, as well as

simmered over low heat fruit

—

water

all

in

boiled

added and the sauce

and quince is

Dl

—and orange

again reduced by

into terra-cotta containers or glass jars

PALLE

is

excellent with

a terra-cotta pot until reduced to a dense syrup.

typically apples, pears,

is

sauce

RISO

CAMPANIA

zampone

meats and roasts. Must from fermented grapes

and kept

half.

in

zest that has been soaked

The very thick syrup

is

34 oz.

dried

filling:

mushrooms CONTINUED

48

in

poured

a cool, dry, dark place.

RICE BALLS

6

Soak the dried mushrooms

in

warm

drain

them from

chop them. low heat.

Add

FOR PERSONS

water for half an

hour, then boil them in the same liquid. For the

is

Chopped

When

cooked,

the liquid, reserving the liquid,

Heat the lardo and pancetta the onion

and cook

in a

and

pan over

until lightly golden.

lardo (see page 2)

Za oz.

2 oz. pancetta,

small onion, sliced

1

1

chopped

Zi

tbsp. Za

and add

rooms and it

butter in a separate

to the

their broth;

them

in small

cook another 10 minutes.

rice in boiling lighdy salted

Check for salt.

water until

25 minutes, depending on the kind of rinse

become

pea mixture along with the mush-

cool and add the mozzarella.

al

dente (15 to

rice), drain,

Mix

under cold running water.

Let

Cook the and

in the lardo (or

melted unsalted butter), Parmigiano-Reggiano, parsley,

and For the rice:

cups rice

lardo (or 2 tbsp.

unsalted butter)

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano flat-leaf

little

cheese,

cut into small cubes

2Zi

a

little

trace

pan and quickly

the chicken livers at high heat, cut

7 oz. mozzarella or

no

is

of liquid, by which time, the peas should have

pieces,

cup white wine

basil. Stir in

Take at a

a

little

bit

time and flatten

it

little

against the

palm of your damp-

of the stuffing on

it

and

close over

the rice, forming balls. Heat several inches of

oil in

a

saucepan. Roll the rice balls in the breadcrumbs and fry

parsley

chopped

the eggs; season with salt and pepper.

of rice (about the size of a large walnut)

ened hand. Put a

until they are 2 tbsp.

until there

brown

fior di latte

chopped

Simmer

minced

3 chicken livers

2 tbsp.

water.

tomato paste

for the livers

oz.

mushroom Heat

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

1

the peas, prosciutto, tomato paste, wine, and a

of the

soft.

cups shelled peas

3 oz. prosciutto cotto, 1

Add

golden brown.

basil

3 large eggs, beaten Salt

and pepper

For frying: Olive

oil

Breadcrumbs

LOCAL TRADITION

MORTADELLA

DI

FEGATO

The Lombardian tradition of mortadella di fegato, typical of the areas of Brianza and central and upper Lake Como, derived from the inspiration of the area’s butchers. To

make fat

this characteristic mortadella, a mixture of pig’s liver,

would be stuffed

serving method

into a large intestine, folded in

was to present warm, thick

tadella di fegato are

still

sold

in

on

itself,

ground pork, and pork

and

boiled.

The preferred

slices with polenta. While versions of

mor-

specialty food shops today, the occasional addition of

isinglass can cause the slices to crumble.

49

LOCAL TRADITION OLIO SANTO method

This

of flavoring extra-virgin olive

Puglia and results

in a

a couple garlic cloves. The

today’s kitchen, cally sealed

it

and

is

in

oil

oil is

pepper and

important for safety to keep

is

typical of

chili

oil is

pepper and

oil like this,

In

with garlic, not hermeti-

the refrigerator both during and after steeping.

I

POLENTA BALLS This recipe

and

toma (cheese from Gressoney,

can substitute strained

is

is

from the German-speaking Walser community

typical of Issime

similar recipe

2 cups cornmeal

is

very dense polenta (see page 289), turn

eggs.

Poke a finger

the cavity with a

Close the pan.

ball

OVA

ABRUZZO bread without crust,

I

into each ball to

chunk of toma and

other valleys a

it

Make

a

out on a cutting

form a hole and 1

fill

teaspoon butter.

with polenta and arrange the balls on the

Cover the pan and bake slowly

browned and a

E

In

board, and using your hands shape balls about the size of

Unsalted butter

PALLOTTE CACE

and Gressoney.

called “lo poutcho.”

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking pan.

ricotta),

cut into 1-inch chunks

Zi lb. stale

garlic

then steeped for several days before using. Note:

VALLE D'AOSTA

lb.

chili

into a bottle with crumbled dried

PALLINE D’ALPEGGIO

1

with

very tasty seasoning for those with strong palates. Olive

barely warmed and then poured

crust has

until the balls are

formed on them. Serve

hot.

CHEESE AND EGG FRITTERS Combine

the bread, pecorino,

and eggs

in a

bowl and

form a dough. Complete the dough

work together

to

by adding the

garlic

and

parsley, then shape into balls.

crumbled

Heat several inches of oil 2 cups grated pecorino

balls until golden.

The

in a

saucepan and fry the bread

balls

can be served as they are

5 large eggs, beaten

or seasoned with tomato sauce, in which case they should garlic,

minced

flat-leaf

parsley

3tbsp.

be heated 3 tbsp.

chopped

Extra-virgin olive

Tomato sauce

50

oil

(optional)

in the sauce at

low heat for about

1

5 minutes.

BREAD WITH WALNUTS

PAN NOCIATO

UMBRIA

This dish

is

6

FOR PERSONS

typical ofTodi.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Grease a baking sheet with 2 tbsp. e$ra-virgin olive

oil

olive

6 oz. pecorino

1

lb.

bread dough (see page Salt

oil.

Cut the pecorino

remaining olive

13)

oil

a loaf

j

SICILIA

1

Bake

about 30 minutes.

raising the heat to

to

little salt

brown

peasant-style bread,

lb.

cubed or

sliced,

toasted

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

2 garlic cloves,

minced

2 ripe

plum tomatoes,

and pepper. Shape

for at least

into

and

cloth,

let

45 minutes,

450°F near the end of the cooking time

BREAD AND TOMATO SALAD This dish

is

typical of the Lipari Islands.

warm

water, to soften,

then arrange in a salad bowl; season with olive salt,

Vz

the

dough, then add the

the outside of the loaf. Let cool before serving.

Briefly dip the pieces of bread in 1

Work

halves.

and place on the pan, cover with a

rest for

PANE A CAPONATA

into the bread

walnuts, pecorino, and a

and pepper

one half and grate

in half; dice

Roughly chop the walnut

the other.

20 walnut halves

and pepper

tomato with

(or chili

pepper

flakes),

Toss and

their liquid.

oil, garlic,

and

let rest

slices

of

15 to 20

minutes; mix again before serving. sliced

and pepper pepper flakes)

Salt (or chili

PANE CON OLIVE

PUGLIA

BREAD WITH OLIVES Work

together the flour with the yeast mixture,

lukewarm water, and 3 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

more as needed

VA tsp.

active dry yeast,

dissolved Vz

cup

in

smooth dough. off the excess.

2 tbsp.

warm water

pitted small black olives

Salt

dough

level

tablespoon of

Dredge the

Add them

into loaves

the oven to

1

and

olives in flour

to the bread

let rise for

400°F and bake

salt to

for

VA

dough. hours.

45 minutes

1

cup

form

a

and shake

Form

the

Preheat

until

golden

and the loaves sound hollow when tapped.

51

MUSIC-PAPER-BREAD SALAD

PANE FRATTAU

SARDEGNA

Combine in a pan;

lb.

1

plum tomatoes, peeled

large pot bring 4 or 5

garlic clove

1

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

lb.

cups of

1

0 to

1

for a

few moments

and

oil,

basil

5 minutes.

lightly salted

Break up the bread and immerse

boil.

oil

Basil 1

the peeled tomatoes, garlic, olive

cook over low heat for

it

In a

water to a

piece by piece

in the water, then set out

on

plates.

Alternate a layer of bread and one of sauce with a dust-

pane carasau

ing of pecorino.

(music-paper bread)

and tomato

4 large eggs

Soft-boil the eggs in the

and add them

peel them,

% cup grated pecorino

to the plates

same water,

on top of the bread

layers.

Salt

PANELLE

D

I

FAVE

SICILIA

I

FAYA-BEAN FRITTERS Soak the fava beans

in water overnight, then drain.

The

next morning boil them in lightly salted water with the 2 lbs. dried fava beans Zi

medium

onion, sliced

Tops of wild fennel Olive

Pinch

chili

oil

for frying

pepper flakes (optional) Salt

through a

sieve.

ble,

with olive

cool.

plus 1

more as needed

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

plus

oil

and pour the mixture onto

Cut into 2-inch

strips.

saucepan and fry the

desired, dust with chili

Roll

it.

inch and

let

Heat a few inches of olive

oil

1

strips until golden.

pepper

flakes.

Drain and,

Serve warm.

PASTRY LEAVES This dish, typical of Aulla, pecorino.

6/2 cups all-purpose flour,

Grease a work surface, preferably mar-

oil

the mixture out to a thickness of about

if

TOSCANA

over low heat for 2 to 3 hours

beans dissolve to form a puree; pass them

in a

PANIGACCI O PANIGAZI

Cook

onion and fennel. until the

Mix

In

is

served with salumi or fresh

Podenzana they are cooked on earthenware

the flour, olive

oil,

a pinch of salt,

disks.

and enough water

Dip

(about 3 cups) to form a smooth dough.

the cut

oil

for greasing Half a potato Salt

and use

side of the potato in oil

it

to grease

(4i4 to 6 inches in diameter), then heat is

smoking

hot,

and cook on one

pour over a scant side,

moving the

it.

an iron griddle

When the disk

ladleful of the batter

disk in a spiral motion

so that the batter covers the entire surface. knife to detach batter, turn,

As you proceed (greasing

Use

a table

and cook on the other

side.

the griddle with the potato

each time), put the cooked leaves in a basket covered with a cloth in a

52

warm

spot.

CHICKPEA POLENTA

PANISSA

This can be eaten hot, poured into

LIGURIA

with olive 1

2

A cups pli!&

chickpea

pepper.

flour,

more as needed

sliced

Salt

It

45 minutes,

TOSCANA

can be

it

heat, very slowly

pour

Continue to

in the

chickpea per-

stir until it is

stirring constantly.

MARINATED BREAD SALAD This dish

stale peasant-style bread,

lb.

dash of

a

Put the pan back over low heat and cook

is

typical of Florence.

Soak the bread 1

and

cups of water with a pinch of salt and, removing

pan from the

fectly blended.

I

juice,

fried or baked.

flour, stirring constantly.

PANZANELLA

soup bowls and seasoned

few drops of lemon

a

and then

Warm 3 the

oil,

can also be allowed to cool, after which

few minutes

for a

sodden, take pieces of bread a

little

in cold water. at a

When

time and squeeze

cut into slices

them between your hands

2 plum tomatoes not overly ripe,

2 1

medium red

cucumber Zi

Put these in a salad bowl, add

all

onions,

chopped chopped

basil;

chopped

in a cool place. Just before serving

bunch

basil,

season only with olive

liquid.

Rub

the

form small cubes of bread.

(optional),

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

remove the

to

pieces between your hands to

chopped

oil, salt,

the vegetables and

and pepper and put

add the vinegar.

oil

tbsp. red wine vinegar Salt

and pepper

PAPACCELLE AL VINCOTTO

CAMPANIA

I

STUFFED PEPPERS This dish

is

typical of Avellino. Vin cotto (“cooked wine”)

is

a

kind of dark, sweet vinegar. Zi lb. stale 1

bunch

bread without crust

flat-leaf parsley,

chopped

2 garlic cloves,

chopped

3

oz. pitted

Zi

Gaeta olives

cup golden raisins 2 tbsp. capers

1

Zi

cups extra-virgin

olive oil

8 papaccelle (pickled peppers),

stems and seeds removed

Mix Vz

the bread, parsley, garlic, olives, raisins, capers,

cup

olive

oil,

and

Put them in a

modate

8 papaccelle

all

this

mixture to stuff the

enough

to

accom-

pour the remaining

olive oil

skillet large

easily,

over them, and cook at utes.

Use

salt.

peppers.

medium

heat for about

1

5

min-

When the lower half of the papaccelle has browned,

delicately turn

stuffing

them over

was inserted

to

to permit the part

brown

equally.

where the

After about

20 minutes, by which time the papaccelle should be 2 tbsp. vin cotto (see note)

nearly cooked, add the vin cotto and cook for another Salt

10 minutes.

53

;

PASTICCIO VERDE

PIEMONTE

VEGETABLE ravisse, the green

3 lbs. ravisse (turnip leaves)

4

oz.

fresh lardo (see page

2),

minced 3 or 4 garlic cloves, crushed 2 Vi cups Arborio rice 1

A

cups cornmeal

3 oz. pork rind, cut

in

pieces Salt

PIE

Pasticcio verde is a dish typical of the

planted

since

fall

it

requires

and healthful leaves of turnips, which are on July

in local fields

29, feast

day of

Martha. This

St.

vegetable can also be chopped and fried together with

sausage

even better, with salame d’la duja: an excellent

or,

variation. Pieces of red chili

ravisse heighten

pepper

fried together with the

its flavor.

wash

Carefully clean and

the ravisse

boil in unsalted

water to cover by several inches just until wilted (do not overcook) Drain and immerse in cold water for .

1

hour to make them

the ravisse

at least

lose their typical bitter flavor.

and squeeze them

into

balls

little

Drain

using both

hands. Finely chop them. Heat the lardo over low heat

and

Combine

fry the garlic until golden.

ravisse

with the

rice,

much

proof pot;

stir in

somewhat

thick paste; season with

over

medium

as

the

chopped

cornmeal, and pork rind in an ovenwater as necessary to obtain a

Put the pot

salt.

heat and bring to a boil, carefully stirring.

When it boils, lower the heat and, still stirring, let it cook slowly for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to

400°F. All this stirring serves to blend the ingredients

and, at the same time, will prevent the cornmeal from sinking to the bottom of the container is

PASTUCCIA

ABRUZZO

baked.

Bake

until

it

plus

more

Put the cornmeal and a

3

A

!4

in a

bowl and work

to obtain a solid

cup), kneading and turning until

it

in

dough (about

pulls

away from

Add the raisins and sausage to the dough,

cup raisins

In a pan (preferably cop-

sausage meat, minced 2 large

A

egg yolks

per) over low heat, fry the pancetta (or guanciale ) until

golden; add the dough, pressing lb.

it

down and

flattening

it

pork pancetta

(or guanciale),

minced

2 tbsp. lard Salt

54

little salt

then work in the egg yolks. lb.

crust.

for serving

the bowl dry. 1

the mixture

POLENTA PIE WITH SAUSAGE AND RAISINS enough lukewarm water

2 cups cornmeal,

when

forms a beautiful dark

with a

wooden spoon. Brush

the surface of the

dough

with lard, adding the remaining pancetta (or guanciale).

Brown

well

on both

sides

and serve

hot.

PATE

Dl

RABBIT AND PORK PATE

CONIGLIO

PIEMONTE

Pour a

little

and put 2 cups prepared gelatin 1

pork

Vi lb.

loin,

per and puree the meat with

4

oz.

until

tbsp. lard

smooth.

mold with

prosciutto cotto, diced

gelatin,

Dl

FEGATO

I

VENETO lb.

Anise seeds,

Zi

cups

1

sprig rosemary

(3 sticks)

unsalted butter 1

Salt

let cool.

Fill

the

refrigerate

4 or 5 hours or

until firm.

tsp.

mushrooms whipped

in

asparagus

a blender,

or cooked Treviso radicchio can be added. Spread on

Simmer

garlic clove

mary,

A few sage leaves

1

and

the prosciutto

toasted bread.

chicken livers

2 cups white wine 1

and pep-

LIYER PATE tips,

%

salt

cooking juices in a blender

meat mixture, cover with the remaining

the

and

its

and pepper

Salt

PATE

Add

Add

Let cool.

utes, stirring occasionally.

cubed

Sage leaves 1

Put the meats and

sage in a saucepan with the lard. Cook, covered, 40 min-

rabbit meat, cubed

lb.

plum-cake mold or loaf pan

gelatin into a

in the refrigerator to harden.

the livers in the wine with the garlic, sage, rose-

salt,

and pepper. Remove the

livers

with a slotted

spoon, pass through a sieve, and work together with the butter,

adding the brandy. Put the mixture

refrigerate; this pate will

in

molds and

remain good for many days.

brandy

and pepper

PATE NAPOLETANO

CAMPANIA

I

NEAPOLITAN PATE

FOR PERSONS

6

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Pass the veal, pork, and

chicken through a meat grinder twice and blend well in 1

lb.

1

lb.

boneless veal

a large

very lean boneless pork salt, 1

lb.

chicken breast

4 large egg yolks, beaten 6 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1

slice

white bread, softened

in

milk

and squeezed dry A few tbsp. milk Bay leaves 1

large black truffle, shaved

CONTINUED

bowl with the egg

yolks,

Parmigiano-Reggiano,

Work

the mixture well for a

pepper, and bread.

long time to blend

from time

it

Put a few bay leaves

pate terrine or rectangular the

in the

surface and pressing

down

it

to

a layer of

form

with the hands.

truffle, prosciutto,

until the ingredients are

with bay leaves.

milk

bottom of a

mold and spread

meat mixture over them, smoothing

with black

little

Pass the mixture through the meat

to time.

grinder again.

thoroughly, adding a

and

a flat

Sprinkle

lard; repeat the layers

used up. Cover the

Close the mold and place

it

last layer

in a large

55

6

oz.

prosciutto crudo, minced

6 Salt

oz.

lard

and pepper

pan.

Add

cold water to reach halfway

up

the sides of the

mold. Heat over low heat, until the water the whole thing to the oven until the surface has

and bake

browned.

boils; transfer

at^out 2 hours, or

Remove from the

oven;

eliminate any liquid that has formed in the terrine or

Remove the lid from the mold, cover the pate with wooden cover, and on that place a weight of more than

mold. a

When

10 pounds. 12 hours,

by

PEARA

VENETO

slices

still

of bread toasted in the oven.

MARROW SAUCE Peara

calls for a great deal of pepper; the

flavor should 4

marrow

beef

oz.

cup

Zi

olive

oil,

preferably from Liguria 3 lbs. fine

breadcrumbs

warmed

4 cups broth,

3tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

and pepper

the pate has cooled, refrigerate for

being pressed. Serve cold, accompanied

aroma and

spicy

remain on the palate. Some of the pepper can

be added near the end of the cooking. Serve this sauce with all

sic

kinds of boiled meats, from chicken to beef.

accompaniment

In a terra-cotta pot over low heat, melt the the olive

oil

It

is

the clas-

for bollito misto (see page 522).

and add the breadcrumbs

the mixture together well.

Add

marrow with

slowly,

the broth

and

working salt

pepper. Boil slowly over low heat for 2 hours; never until the last

moment, when you add

and stir

the Parmigiano-

Reggiano, about 10 minutes before serving.

PEPERONI ALLA PIEMONTESE

PIEMONTE

PAN-COOKED PEPPERS Heat the

olive oil in a

pan and cook the peppers

keeping them somewhat J4

cup

olive oil

4 yellow or red peppers, cut into

somewhat

raising the heat to

from time rinsed of salt 2 tbsp. flat-leaf 1

mixed chopped

parsley and basil

garlic clove, 1

chopped

tbsp. capers

4 tbsp. red wine vinegar

56

Chop

quickly,

the remaining in-

gredients and add to the pan, sprinkling on vinegar and

large pieces

8 salt-cured anchovies,

crisp.

to time.

make

it

evaporate. Let cool, stirring

UNLEAVENED PI

ADA OR

PI

ADI N A

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

FLATBREAD The piada has ancient origins. Over time the idea developed

piada or “schiacciata” or

of a kind of flatbread or salted 2 cups all-purpose flour,

plus J4 lb.

(or Vs

more as needed

lardo (see page

cup extra-virgin 1

2)

olive oil)

cup milk Salt

piada made with

salt

and lardo, but usually without sweet

ingredients, which can be found

honey

—

— speaking

specifically of

the area of Cervia. Over the centuries the piada

in

It

in general made withwas during the postwar period

its

current consolidated shape and

has been considered a kind of bread, out yeast and eaten hot. that the piada

assumed

taste, along with a richness that ical

specialty of the

and

in

dialect pie.

has helped

a typ-

to as piada

The good piadina represents the nurturing

and domestic arts that are the basis Historically speaking,

what

of

Romagnan

conviviality.

did our ancestors eat with their

piadd? Herbs from the garden and nettles,

become

it

Romagna, correctly referred

field,

such as cabbage,

corn poppies, and radicchio. They also ate greens

fried with garlic, onion, shallots, pancetta,

and lardo. They

squacquarone or pecorino,

ate cheeses, like raviggiolo or

caprino, mixed chesses, and aged cow’s-milk cheeses. They

meats

also ate cured

and

or topped

ciccioli,

Combine and

for

let rest

PISCI AL AN

DRE A

LIGURIA

plus

more as needed

2J4tsp. active dry yeast Vi

cup milk

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

2

medium

oil

onions, sliced

4 salt-cured anchovies,

rinsed of salt and chopped

CONTINUED

out

and

until just colored,

then turn with a

cook evenly without bubbles.

PISSALADIERE This dish

is

typical of the Riviera di Ponente. Popular legends

attribute the 3 cups all-purpose flour,

cloth. Roll

disks about 6 inches in diameter

and cook

will

it

dough

Put each disk on a heated griddle or cast-

inch thick.

iron skillet

30 minutes covered by a

form

the balls to

fork so

general, including lardo, pancetta,

with sapa (see page 69).

necessary) and divide into loaves (balls)

if

A

it

the ingredients to form an elastic, soft

(add water

X

in

name

of this pizza to the

Genoese naval hero

Andrea Doria, claiming he variously invented fered

it

in

homage;

it

or

a very different view traces the

was ofname to

pissaladiere, a flatbread from the nearby Cote d’Azur.

Mix

the flour, yeast, milk,

and

a

dash of

salt.

1

tablespoon of the olive

Turn out onto

and knead, turning and

a clean

oil,

work surface

folding, until the

dough

is

You may need to add a few tablespoons of water if the dough feels too dry. Cover with a Meanwhile cloth and let it rise for at least 2 hours. smooth and

elastic.

57

lb.

1

plum tomatoes, peeled and

drained, seeded and chopped

Several small basil leaves

Z2 cup

pitted black olives, halved

5 garlic cloves

2tbsp. chopped oregano Salt

preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking pan with olive

Heat the remaining

oil.

the onions

and a

1

PIZZA ALLA

CAMPANIA

olive oil in a

pan and add

saute; ^dd the anchovies, tomatoes, basil,

salt to taste.

Cook

for

about 15 minutes.

dough and place

-inch-thick layer of

Roll out

in the pre-

it

pared pan. Sprinkle with the olives and

Spread

garlic.

over the tomato sauce, then sprinkle with oregano. Bake for about

CAMPOFRANCO

and

30 minutes. Serve hot.

LAYERED PIZZA Combine

6

the flour, milk, yeast, eggs,

PERSONS

and butter

to pre-

pare a dough as though making brioche (see page 3 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

more as needed

%cup

Set

it

pan with somewhat high

to rise in a loaf

7).

sides.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake until browned and milk

golden, then

let it cool.

Increase the oven temperature to

214 tsp. active dry yeast

450°F. 3 large eggs

Z2 cup

(1

Z2 cup tomato puree cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

the loaf

from the pan and

CAMPANIA lb.

risen pizza

5 or 6

1

dough (see page

13)

San Marzano plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped tsp. dried

oregano, crumbled

2tbsp. small basil leaves 2 garlic cloves, chopped Extra-virgin olive

oil

Salt

58

in half

cover

slices

it

with

of fior di

latte,

half the tomato puree,

and half the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Cover with the top half

and add the remaining

fior di latte,

tomato puree,

5 minutes. Serve hot.

1

NEAPOLITAN PIZZA There are many variations, such as the Margherita, which similar with the addition of diced mozzarella.

1

it

Put the lower part back in the pan and

and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Bake

PIZZA ALLA NAPOLETANA

slice

horizontally. stick) unsalted butter

7 oz. fior di latte cheese, sliced

!4

Remove

is

Many other

versions use various ingredients: anchovies, mushrooms, olives, hard-boiled eggs, prosciutto,

and so

on.

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Put the dough on a face, divide in half,

of each

half,

and make

making them

a

a

somewhat

little

flat

sur-

thick disk out

thicker at the edges.

Distribute the pieces of tomato across the disks and

spread with oregano,

and

salt

and bake

basil,

for about

and 1

garlic.

Sprinkle with

5 minutes.

oil

PIZZA ALLA SICILIAN A

SICILIA

SICILIAN PIZZA

According to tradition, you can determine when the

dough For the dough: 3 cups all-purpose flour,

more as needed

plus

2'A tsp. active dry yeast,

dissolved

in

2 tbsp. water

For the seasoning (the 3

medium

conzaY

onions, sliced

2 tbsp. olive

more

plus 6

oil,

for the pan

plum tomatoes, peeled 2 garlic cloves

boned and chopped,

6 anchovies,

or as desired Vi lb.

is

done by knocking on

it:

If

absence, pecorino), thinly sliced

tbsp.

chopped oregano Salt

ball of

the ball responds with a

certain hollow sound not unlike that of a muffled drum,

done.

If

the sauce

breadcrumbs toasted

Form

in

not thick enough,

is

is

common

to

it’s

add

a greased pan.

add the yeast with

a well with the flour;

dash of

it

breadcrumbs should be

to the cheese; these

salt,

and enough additional water

its

water, a

make

to

a soft

dough (% to 1 cup) Knead until the dough becomes solid and homogenous, then form into a ball, cover, and let .

Prepare the conza Heat 2 table-

rise for several hours.

spoons of the

Cover the pan darkening.

:

olive oil over

low heat and add the onions.

steam and keep the onions from

to create

Add the tomatoes and

Continue cooking

Remove and

until the

the whole garlic cloves.

sauce

is

and dense.

fragrant

discard the garlic cloves.

Preheat the oven

cheese (caciocavallo

or, in its

1

1

to 425°F. layer of

the

Grease a baking sheet with

olive

oil.

Make

dough about 2 inches high on the pan. Push

dough

as

push in some

many

a

into

pieces of anchovy as desired; also

Cover with the conza

thin slices of cheese.

and sprinkle with cheese and oregano. Generously drizzle with more olive

oil

and bake

for approximately

melted and the dough

utes, until the cheese has

5

min-

is

crisp

1

on the bottom.

PIZZA ARROTOLATA

SICILIA

ROLLED PIZZA This dish

is

typical of

pizza, ’Mpriolata, is

% cup all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed 4 tbsp. lard

2 tbsp. ciccioli or

frittuli

(see note, page 12) 1

lb.

2

fresh sausage, crumbled

medium /i

onions,

chopped

cup grated pecorino Salt

and pepper

word

Campofranco. The dialect name for

this

probably derived from ’impriola, a sailor’s

for a sail attached to a

mast with a wooden

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Mix

ring.

together the flour and

A cup water and a little salt to form a smooth dough. Knead until soft and elastic. Cover with a kitchen cloth X

and

let rest

for

1

hour.

Roll the

dough out

into a thin

sheet and cut out 4 disks 10 to 12 inches in diameter.

Spread each disk with with some of the

1

ciccioli,

tablespoon lard; sprinkle each sausage meat, onions, pecorino,

and top with pepper. Roll each disk of dough up, then coil the roll to create a ring shape.

Bake 15

to

30 minutes

or until golden.

59

PIZZA WITH

PIZZA CIOCIARA

CON CIME

D

1

RAPA

LAZIO

1

TURNIP GREENS The leafy tops of turnips are used

like broccoli

called for in this recipe, locally called tanni, 1

%

lbs.

turnip greens,

washed and dried 1

garlic clove,

salt, garlic, olive oil,

and

chili

pepper

oil

the flour with the yeast mixture Pinch 1

Zi

chili

cups all-purpose

1

in

Zi tsp. active

2 tbsp.

dry yeast,

lukewarm water 1

Salt

Turn out onto

a

large egg yolk

and white pepper

in

the

flavor.

in

dough has

a dash of salt

risen,

elastic

add

dough

until

smooth.

volume, about an hour. When the

Let rise until doubled

make an

Combine

flakes.

and 3 tablespoons water.

work surface and knead

flour,

more as needed

plus

dissolved

pepper flakes

grown

Slowly cook the turnip greens in a pan over low heat with

chopped

Extra-virgin olive

rabe; the type

is

southern part of Lazio and has a particularly bitter

that

is

and enough water

not too firm.

to

Preheat the

oven to 400°F. Roll the dough out on a floured board to 2 ‘/s-inch-thick sheets

pan.

Spoon

and use one sheet

a layer of greens no

to line a baking

more than

1

inch thick;

cover this with the other sheet of dough. Puncture the top

with a fork, brush with the egg, and dust with white pepper.

PIZZA CON ALICI E CAPPERI

CALABRIA

lb.

bread dough (see page 34

6 to 8

fillets

cup capers

in

oil

13)

vinegar

until the top

is

browned.

PIZZA WITH ANCHOVIES

AND CAPERS Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking pan with olive

Extra-virgin olive

%

Bake about 25 minutes,

oil.

Roll out the

dough and

lay

it

into the pan.

Spread with capers and anchovies. Season with a drizzle of olive until

oil, salt if

needed, and bake about 25 minutes,

golden brown.

of salt-cured anchovies,

chopped Salt

PIZZA CON CARCIOFI E

RICOTTA

CALABRIA

PIZZA WITH ARTICHOKES

AND RICOTTA A good idea

is

to use artichoke leaves

left

over from other

preparations. Extra-virgin olive

Leaves of

1

oil

artichoke, boiled until soft 6 oz. sheep’s-milk ricotta

2 tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

CONTINUED

60

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking pan with Pass the boiled artichoke leaves through a food

olive

oil.

mill.

Combine

ley, salt,

the resultant puree with the ricotta, pars-

and pepper.

spread the

first

Divide the dough

half across the pan.

Cover

in half this

and

with the

3

A

lb.

bread dough (see page Salt

artichoke mixture then cover with the remaining dough,

13)

and pepper

pressing

down on

the edges with a fork to seal them.

Bake about 25 minutes,

golden brown.

PIZZA WITH CRACKLINGS

PIZZA CON CICCIOLI E

until

AND RAISINS

CALABRIA

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking pan.

6

bine the flour, yeast mixture, and 3 cups all-purpose flour,

plus 1

dissolved

salt

Com-

with enough water

(% to 1 cup) to make a smooth dough. Knead until smooth and elastic. Let rest covered with a kitchen towel

more as needed

tbsp. active dry yeast, in

2 tbsp.

for

warm water

6 oz. ciccioli (see note, page

1

1

hour.

Roll the

rectangle about

2 tbsp. lard

filling.

2)

Heat the lard

Spread the

to obtain a square or

in a

pan and saute the

pork begins to take on a

filling

ends to form a

Salt

dough out

inch thick. Let rest while making the

Vz

raisins until the

cup raisins, soaked warm water and drained Vs

in

FQR persons

UVA PASSA

over the dough and

roll

it

ciccioli

up. Join the

on the pan and bake

ring. Place

and

color.

little

until

golden brown, about 30 minutes.

PIZZA CON GLI SFRIZZOLI

UMBRIA

1

PIZZA WITH CRACKLINGS Dissolve the yeast in the milk, then work together ingredients (except the olive

3 tsp. active dry yeast Vz

cup

milk,

warmed

4/4 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

more as needed

oil)

.

Turn out onto

surface and knead together until the

dough

is

and

elastic.

and

the

rest

and

Cover with

rise for

1

Grease a pan with

a kitchen cloth

hour. olive

oil.

let

all

a

the

work

smooth

dough

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Pat the dough to a thickness

4 large eggs

of 2 inches and bake until golden. 7 oz. sfrizzoli (ciccioli; see note,

page

12)

Parmigiano-Reggiano, to taste Olive

oil

Salt

PIZZA

Dl

SCAROLA

CAMPANIA

PIZZA WITH ESCAROLE Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a pie pan. escarole, boil

3 large heads escarole

CONTINUED

it

in lightly salted water,

Coarsely chop. Heat the olive

oil in

a

and add the anchovies, cooking them

Wash

and drain

the

well.

pan over low heat to break

them up;

61

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 2 anchovies 1

oil

in oil

garlic clove

2 tbsp. capers, crushed Vi 1

lb.

cup pitted Gaeta

risen pizza

olives

dough (see page

add the

garlic

and

escarole

is

large

enough

olives.

Cook

roll it

roll

Add

high heat until the

salt.

*Xake two-thirds

Cover with the greens

out the remaining dough to create

a cover; pinch the edges to seal. until golden.

it.

at

out on a floured board to a sheet

to line the pie pan.

mixture and then

13)

Salt

a^d

completely dry; taste for

of the dough and

remove

fry until golden, then

the escarole, capers,

Bake 30

to

40 minutes

This can be served either hot or

at

room

temperature.

PIZZA GIALLA ALL’ORVIETANA

UMBRIA

CORNMEAL PIZZA This “pizza”

is

typical of Orvieto

and goes well with the town’s

golden white wine. Several sage leaves 1

celery stalk, 1

chopped

sprig rosemary

2 or 3 whole cloves

2/a cups cornmeal 2 tbsp. olive Zi

oil

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Boil the sage, celery, rose-

mary, and cloves

meal and

stir

in

4 cups of salted water; add the corn-

energetically until the mixture thickens;

then add the olive

oil, raisins,

using. Immediately turn the

bake

until firm

and

pine nuts, and herbs,

dough out

into a

a golden crust forms.

cup golden raisins

2 tbsp. pine nuts (optional)

2 tbsp.

chopped herbs

(optional) Salt

LOCAL TRADITION

PIZZA This dish, typical of Ferrazzano,

pan with a

little

olive

oil.

in

D

I

Molise,

Traditionally, the

VERDURE is

even better the next day, reheated

in a

cornmeal "pizza” was baked on the hearth,

on top of a layer of chestnut leaves. Then this "pizza” was broken up and mashed together with cooked greens and pork.

62

if

pan and

PIZZA PASQUALE D

FORM AGGIO

I

UMBRIA

EASTER PIZZA WITH CHEESE This dish

is

6Z2 cups ell-purpose flour, plus 1

more as needed

tbsp. active dry yeast,

dissolved

cup

in Z2

warm water 1

cup milk

10 large eggs, beaten 1

Za

and goes well with salame, most

typical of Terni

especially capocollo.

It

is

an element

the traditional Easter

in

Lamb

meal, eaten “after the ringing of the bells” along with

with artichokes (see page 562) and the Easter frittata

offal

(see page 33).

Make need

add half the yeast mixture,

a well with the flour,

and knead to

dough

well until the

add

a

water

little

if

may Form

smooth. (You

is

dough

the

too dry.)

is

cups grated pecorino

into a loaf shape. Let this rest, covered with a kitchen

%

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

towel, overnight in a Zi

warm

The

spot.

next morning

cup lard

work the milk and the remaining yeast mixture 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

into the

oil

dough. Let Juice of

it

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

warm

hours in a

rise for at least 2

lemon

Add

spot.

the remaining ingredi-

Splash of white wine

ents

and prepare a

soft

and

dough.

elastic

Divide into

Salt

and put

loaves

Bake

PIZZA PIENA

CAMPANIA For the dough:

plus

Combine form a

thin

about 30 minutes.

the flour with the egg, soft

dough (about

round sheet

dough with the

1

salt,

and enough water

cup) Roll out to make a .

as large as possible.

Grease the sheet of

lard (or butter) then roll

it

up

tightly

and

more as needed

put 1

until golden,

somewhat high but not wide molds.

STUFFED PIZZA to

3 cups all-purpose flour,

in

it

in the refrigerator for

30 minutes.

Preheat the

large egg, beaten

oven to 350°F. Lay out the

roll

on

a cutting

board and

2 tbsp. lard (or unsalted butter),

plus

more

for topping

cut

it

in half lengthwise. Place

board, seam side down, and For the

filling:

8 large eggs, beaten 1

7 oz.

lb.

fresh mozzarella, sliced

salame or prosciutto, minced Z2 Z2

cup grated pecorino

cup

ricotta (optional),

whipped with Salt

a fork

and pepper

lowing

it

one of these halves on the

roll

it

up from one end,

to stick together but without

sure so that spiral. Seal

it

eventually forms a cylinder with a distinct

Using

the end by moistening the last end.

a floured rolling pin, delicately flatten the cylinder

the center outward toward the edges in such a the edges of the spiral fold under to the disk to line a round pan,

adheres to the pan.

Mix

salame, pecorino, and, ture in the lined

rest

and

if

form a

making

from

way

disk.

that

Use

certain the spiral

the eggs, mozzarella, pepper,

desired, ricotta.

Pour

this

mix-

pan and cover with the remaining sheet

of dough, prepared lard (or butter),

Let

al-

adding any pres-

like the first.

and bake

for

Dot

the surface with

40 minutes,

until golden.

serve.

63

LOCAL TRADITION PIZZA CON FIORI

D

SAMBUCO

I

This pizza recipe from Calabria, typical of the area of Serra

elderberry flowers, which grow wild along roadsides and Italy

in

San Bruno, makes use of the verdant woods of both

and America. A basic bread dough would be used to create

a pizza crust,

which

would then be completely covered with the elderberry flowers and sprinkled with a

amount

small

greased pan

of olive

until

oil.

This simple pizza would then be rolled up

PIZZA RUSTICA

1

CAMPANIA

I

lb.

ricotta

7 oz. provola or fior di latte cheese 3 large eggs, separated

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 4

oz.

prosciutto cotto, diced

2 oz. salame (preferably Neapolitan), diced

2 1

lb.

oz.

in

a

MEAT PIZZA Preheat the oven to 350°F. yolks,

1

Vi

and baked

golden brown.

mortadella, diced

puff pastry or short-crust

pepper,

salt,

Add

blended.

Mix

the ricotta, provola, egg

and Parmigiano-Reggiano

until

and mortadella.

the prosciutto, salame,

Whip the egg whites to soft peaks and fold them into the Use two-thirds of the pastry dough

mixture.

pan and

pie

pastry

Use for

fill

dough out

to

form

a disk

and cover the

the tines of a fork to seal the edges

30

or at

40 minutes, or

to

room

to line a

with the mixture. Roll the remaining

until the

top

is

all

filling.

around. Bake

golden. Serve hot

temperature.

pastry, according to taste Salt

and pepper

PIZZA WITH POTATOES PIZZA RUSTICA

2

PUGLIA

AND OLIVES This dish

is

typical of Brindisi.

Boil the potatoes, peel 2

medium

potatoes

3 cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed

them through yeast

and enough water

1 Zi

cups.

rest

and

2 tsp. active dry yeast,

dissolved

64

in

2 tbsp.

lukewarm water

them when

a food mill.

Add

salt,

still

warm, then pass

in the flour,

to obtain a solid

sugar,

rise for at least

Knead

and 2 tablespoons

2 hours in a

adding the

dough, about olive oil; let

warm spot.

Mean-

water for 5 to 10 minutes.

Pinch sugar

while boil the onions in a

CONTINUED

At the end of that time, drain the water and remove

little

Zi

4

cup extra-virgin

medium 1

4 ripe San

onions.

olive oil

Marzano plum tomatoes,

bine thoroughly.

pieces

in

3 tablespoons olive

them

oil

take

to the pan. Saute

on

color.

Add

with olive

Salt

Remove from

and add the

the heat

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking pan

olives.

30 pitted black olives

pan and

oil.

Arrange the risen dough

prepared

in the

distribute the onion mixture over

cover with

it;

another layer of dough and brush the top with olive

Bake

PIZZA SICILI ANA

for nearly

3% cups all-purpose flour,

yeast)

and work

baking powder

cream

with olive

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

about

Cut

onion, cut

tuma

it

again, adding

1

tablespoon

oil

and spread out the dough

to create a layer

inch high. Season the top of the dough with the

it

in slices

oil.

Bake

when warm;

for

olives,

20 minutes

it is

oregano,

until golden.

easier to cut this using

kitchen shears than a knife.

cup tomato puree

Zi

oz.

Vi

pepper, and olive

For the topping:

4

knead

tartar (or

homogenous dough. When

tomato puree, onion, tuma, anchovies,

oil

Salt

medium

risen,

with IV2 cups luke-

of tartar

or active dry yeast

1

to obtain a

salt

and cream of

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking pan

oil.

134 tsp.

2

water, baking powder,

dough has

oil.

until golden.

warm the

more as needed

tsp.

hour or

Slowly combine the flour and

For the dough:

1

1

SICILIAN PIZZA

2

SICILIA

plus

the

capers and tomatoes and'work the mixture well to com-

heaping tbsp. capers

cut

Add

the onions without letting

onions, thinly sliced

in

thin slices

(unsalted goat’s-milk

cheese), cubed 6 anchovies, Zi

1

tsp. dried 1

pieces

in

cup black

pitted

olives,

and chopped

oregano, crumbled

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

Pepper

BAKED POLENTA WITH POLENTA

IN

TORTIERA

CAMPANIA

1

TURNIPS AND SAUSAGES This polenta’s pleasingly bitter flavor appetizer, preferably served

34 1

34

cup

olive oil

cups cornmeal

makes

it

suitable as an

warm.

Preheat the oven to 475°F. Grease a baking pan with olive

oil.

Prepare polenta, combining the cornmeal, milk,

% cup milk

and

CONTINUED

and smooth.

salt in a

pot with 5 cups water, stirring until cooked

Heat half the

olive oil in a

pan and cook

65

2 garlic cloves 1

diavolillo (see note,

page 22)

(optional)

2 bunches friarielli (can substitute broccoli rabe),

chopped

2 pork sausages, crumbled

and

the garlic

(if

desired) the diavalillo.

and sausage meat and, when these

Pour the mixture

into the polenta.

ing

it

Add

the friarielli

are cooked,

mix them

into the pan, spread-

with the hack of a fork. Bake for about 30 minutes,

or until a crust forms.

Salt

D

POLPETTE FUNGHI ROSITI

I

CALABRIA

MUSHROOM MEATBALLS Clean and carefully wash the pinkish hue), dry

1

Zi lbs.

mushrooms

(preferably

them with

In a bowl

pieces.

mix

garlic, parsley, eggs, salt, 3

A

oz.

ground beef

lb.

with

peasant-style bread

without crust, soaked

in

milk

and squeezed dry Zi

cup grated pecorino

Vi

cup

(so called for their

and cut

rositi,

and pepper.

in very small

bread, pecorino,

Prepare a sauce

and the tomato puree. Shape the

olive oil

mushroom-meat mixture olive oil in a

rositi

a cloth,

the beef,

rositi [Lactarius deliciosus])

4

FOR PERSONS

6

into meatballs.

pan and brown the

Heat

Vz

inch of

meatballs. Drain

on

paper towels and serve with tomato sauce.

2 garlic cloves, minced 1

chopped

tbsp.

flat-leaf

parsley

2 large eggs Extra-virgin olive

oil

cups tomato sauce, for serving

2

Salt

POLPETTINE

Dl

and pepper

BACCALA

FRIED BACCALA BALLS

MARCHE

Heat 2 tablespoons onion and

Olive

1

1

Zi lbs.

oil

medium onion

1

garlic clove,

crushed

baccala, soaked overnight

and cut

in

pieces without

bones and skin 2 tbsp. dry white

wine

2 tbsp. milk Zi 1

tbsp.

cup bread without crust

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

Pinch grated nutmeg 1

Zi

cups all-purpose flour 2 large eggs, beaten 2 cups

breadcrumbs White pepper

66

toss.

Pour

garlic

saute.

in the wine,

water to cover the

fish

utes more. Let cool. it

Chop together the Add the pieces of baccala and and cook until it evaporates. Add

olive oil in a pan.

and

and continue cooking

for 2

min-

When the baccala has cooled, pass

through a meat grinder or blender.

Add the milk to the it to soften. Add

baccala liquid and soak the bread in the baccala, white pepper, parsley,

and nutmeg.

Work

together to form balls about the size of large olives. Heat Vz

inch of olive

Flour the

balls,

Fry, in batches

oil in

a pan, until hot but not smoking.

then dip in beaten egg and breadcrumbs. if

golden, serve hot.

necessary to prevent crowding, until

LOCAL TRADITION

PROSCIUTTO D BOSSES JAMBON DE BOSSES I

This rare \(aldostan prosciutto crudo

raised

in

is

made

with the haunch of small local gray pigs

the Alps together with cows. The pigs feed on fresh grass along with resi-

dues from the manufacture of

milk; they live at 1,800

meters altitude near the opening

Bernard Tunnel. The tradition of making this prosciutto

of the Great St.

being pre-Roman, perhaps dating back to the Salassians; today, limited. it

is

The meat

aged on the

built off the

maximum

is

brined

in a

site (at 1,800

meters)

in

The prosciutto

is

minimum

In

very ancient,

jambon de Bosses

general, the

wooden

of

dark red with white veins and has

taste with an aromatic fragrance. The prolonged aging period climatic conditions.

is

production

rascards, typical Valdostan

ground. The period of aging lasts from a

of three.

its

is

very

mixture enriched with aromatic mountain herbs, and

is still

is

haylofts

two years

to a

a very flavorful

related to the special

prepared, as

in

the past,

by private producers.

PUCCE

PUGLIA

I

OLIYE BREAD Heat 2 tablespoons cut

5 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

3 cipolotti (salad onions) 3 ripe

plum tomatoes,

peeled and chopped 1

cup 3

pitted olives in

cups all-purpose plus

water

in

olive oil in a pan.

then saute.

Add

Clean the onions, the tomatoes

cook, stirring constantiy, until they have broken

some.

Add

the olives and a dash of

few minutes, then yeast mixture,

dough. Knead

more as needed

2 tbsp.

in strips,

1

let cool.

cup water, and

until the

dough

salt.

Work

Keep on

and

down heat a

together the flour,

salt to

is elastic.

form a smooth

Add

the cooled

flour,

234 tsp. active dry yeast, dissolved

them

warm water

mixture to the dough, form into loaves, and at least

1

hour.

let rise

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake until

golden, about 40 minutes.

Salt

67

#

*

LOCAL TRADITION

PROSCIUTTO

D

SAURIS

I

This type of prosciutto, typical of Friuli-Venezia Giulia,

is

made from young

on natural foods: cornmeal, barley, potatoes, whey. The prosciutto with juniper and silver

fir

wood, giving

RAMACCHE SICILIA

it

a special flavor

1

% cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed 5 large eggs

2 oz. prosciutto crudo, diced Vi

cup grated caciocavallo cheese 2 tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

Lard Salt

smoked

and aroma.

PROSCIUTTO AND CHEESE FRITTERS This dish

is

typical of Acireale.

Heat water (about 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

pigs raised

slowly

is

1

cup),

preferably of copper, and

from heat and Return the pan

stir in

salt,

and butter

when

in a saucepan,

boils

remove the pan

the flour with a

wooden spoon.

to the heat

it

and work the mixture con-

tinuously with the spoon; after a great deal of stirring the

mixture

will

have formed a solid and homogeneous

ball

one

at a

of dough. Let

it

cool, then incorporate the eggs

time, constantly kneading (using a mixer can save

of this effort)

.

some

When the dough forms bubbles, work in and parsley. When this is

the prosciutto, caciocavallo,

done, set the dough aside in a cool place.

Heat several

inches of lard in a high-sided pan until hot (but not

smoking), then drop in 1-inch

make the cut

it

balls

balls

of dough. (You can

with a spoon or spread out the dough and

into cylinders to roll directly in the pan.) Let these

fry slowly, reducing the heat if they start to quickly.

Remove

brown too

the ramacche with a slotted spoon,

put them on a serving plate covered with paper towels,

and serve

68

hot.

RUNDITT

PIEMONTE

BUCKWHEAT FLATBREAD The trick

in this dish, typical of

the Valle Vigezzo,

making

is in

the thinnest possible sheet of dough. 4Va cupSyEill'purpose flour,

Sift

and /a

cups buckwheat flour, plus more ae needed 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

1

together the two flours, then

mix with

1

%

cups water

more as needed

plus 1

garlic clove (optional)

Salt

13.

form a smooth dough

salt to

Let

rest for a

few hours, then

Cut into squares

sheet of dough. griddle. Place

as explained roll

that will

it

fit

on an

iron

on the griddle and put the griddle over a

burning flame, and when the dough

and grease

on page

out into a thin

with a

little

butter

and

cooked remove

is

salt; if

desired

it

it

can

be rubbed with a cut clove of garlic.

SAPA

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

A simple way to see is

15 lbs. ripe sweet grapes 2-inch

cinnamon

stick

16 cloves Zest of 2 lemons,

with the pith removed

MAKES ABOUT 3 LBS.

GRAPE SYRUP if

the sapa (or saba) has cooked enough

to pour a few drops onto a sheet of

sheet at an angle;

your sapa

is

if

in their shell to

paper and hold the

the drops resist gravity and stay

ready. There are those

the pot while

it

is

who add

place,

in

5 to 6 walnuts

cooking. The idea

is

that

the walnuts, by hitting the bottom and walls of the pot, keep

the syrup from sticking. Traditionally, sapa

pantry

in

bottles that

was put

in

the

were sealed with wax.

Carefully clean the grapes, checking

Dry them and put them in a pestle (or even better,

them one by one. With

a large terra-cotta pot.

by hand) crush the grapes

as

completely as possible, creating a must. Put the must

through a sieve to remove the skins and seeds, then return

it

to the pot.

cool spot.

and lemon

Cover with a cloth and

let rest in a

After 24 hours add the cinnamon, cloves, zest

and turn on the

heat.

Simmer,

stirring

occasionally to avoid sticking, for at least 12 hours, or until the

must has reduced by about

off any impurities

The it

result will

and

let cool;

two-thirds.

Skim

remove the cinnamon.

be a sweet and very viscous

liquid;

pour

into sterilized bottles. The sapa will keep well, refriger-

ated, for a

month

or more.

69

LOCAL TRADITION

SALAME D’OCA This dish

typical of the Friulian plain.

is

Chop together equal amounts

of

goose and

pork, then season with lard, salt, pepper, garlic, and white wine. Stuff into casings to create salame.

preserved

in

If

goose

desired, these can be

smoked under the hood

SALSA AGRODOLCE

TOSCANA

SWEET-AND-SOUR SAUCE Put the sugar

in a small

copper pot, add the lemon

and caramelize the sugar tbsp. sugar

1

Juice of Vi

4 4 tbsp. 1

oz.

0h

unsalted butter

Zi

tbsp.

and grated

juice,

as the

sugar has developed a golden color remove from the heat

and add the wine

to dissolve

and add the chocolate and

Mix

in the apple.

Add the

pine nuts, and almonds.

it.

Put

butter.

back on the heat

it

Let

grappa, and

Cook at low

this dissolve.

if

desired, raisins,

heat for a few min-

utes more.

cup grappa

chopped almonds

(optional)

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

SWEET-AND-SOUR SAUCE

PARMA STYLE In a saucepan heat the butter and olive garlic

3 tbsp. unsalted butter 3 tbsp. olive 1

2 tbsp.

garlic clove,

chopped

oil

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

heaping tbsp. tomato paste,

dissolved

in

2 tbsp.

2 tbsp. white

warm water wine vinegar 1

tsp.

sugar Salt

70

As soon

high heat.

tbsp. raisins (optional)

SALSA AGRODOLCE ALLA PARMIGI ANA

1

at

tbsp. pine nuts (optional)

1

1

lemon

cup white wine

apple, peeled

1

1

bittersweet chocolate stick)

of the fireplace or

fat.

and

parsley.

When

the garlic

is

oil

and saute the

golden, add the

tomato paste mixture, vinegar, sugar, and

simmer

for a

few minutes

until thickened.

salt

and

Serve cool.

SALSA

CREN

Dl

EMILIA-ROMAGNA 9 oz. fresh horseradish root Zi

cup breadcrumbs

2 tbsp. white wine vinegar ‘

Salt

1

HORSERADISH SAUCE Wash

the horseradish root under running water, dry

well,

then scrape off the peel with a knife and grate. (Do

this

in a well-ventilated place; the

Mix

strong.)

and

a

little salt,

fumes are rather

the horseradish, breadcrumbs, vinegar, until

combined. (The breadcrumbs temThis sauce

per the strong flavor of the horseradish.)

can be preserved

if

stored in sealed sterilized glass jars

covered with a film of olive

oil.

Preserved

sauce keeps for several weeks, bearing in

sauce

will

gradually lose

its

this

mind

way

the

that the

characteristic sharp flavor.

Store in the refrigerator.

SALSA AL DRAGONCELLO

TOSCANA

TARRAGON SAUCE This sauce

is

best served with boiled chicken or capon.

It

is

prepared with tarragon, the herb of Siena. Following the wis1

bunch fresh tarragon A few

basil leaves

3 garlic cloves 2 oz. crustless bread,

soaked

in

white wine vinegar Zi

Salt

cup

olive oil

dom

of the farmer’s wife, let

more

it

rests, the better

it

rest as long as possible: The

tastes as the garlic dissolves.

Mix chopped

tarragon, basil, and garlic with a

and pepper.

Add

the bread to the mixture;

little salt

work these

together for a long time to create the creamiest sauce possible. Let

it

rest for a

few hours, then add the

oil.

and pepper

SALSA AL TARTUFO

UMBRIA

TRUFFLE SAUCE Heat the

olive oil in a

vies (if needed). 3

it

A cup

olive oil

2 garlic cloves 2 anchovies (needed only

if

and

let

pan and cook the

Remove from

cool slightly.

Add

sary pepper (but only a

garlic

and ancho-

heat, discard the garlic,

the truffles,

salt,

and

if

neces-

little)

the

truffles are not highly fragrant)

2

oz.

black truffles, grated Salt

and pepper

71

SALSA DELLA BORMIDA

LIGURIA

BORMIDA SAUCE This sauce should be eaten with boiled meats.

Heat 2 tablespoons 1

celery stalk, finely

chopped

carrot, finely

chopped

1

Extra-virgin olive

oil

2 salt-cured anchovies Zz 1

small garlic clove

and cook the vegetables

oil

Soak the bread

onion.

for 10

the anchovies, garlic, parsley, in the vinegar,

work together with the egg

yolks.

and

squeeze dry, and

Mix anchovy and

bread mixtures into the celery and carrot, and add the

lemon

juice, salt,

pepper, and additional

oil

as desired.

handful flat-leaf parsley

Heart of (peel

Chop

minutes.

away the outer

onion

1

layers to

obtain a piece the size of a walnut)

Bread without crust from a baguette (about 3

A cup

1

cup)

vinegar

2 yolks of large hard-boiled eggs

Juice of

1

lemon, or as needed Salt

and pepper

SALSA BARBERINA

TOSCANA

BARBERINA SAUCE This sauce, typical of Bolgheri,

is

especially good on roast

game. cup dry white wine

Zz

Zz

cup broth

Juice of 1

1

lemon

In a saucepan,

and pepper

combine

to taste.

all

the ingredients, adding salt

Mix and

bring to a

boil.

Cook

for

several minutes.

cup breadcrumbs

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

3tbsp. chopped onion 2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley 1

bay leaf

Pinch grated nutmeg Salt

SALSA

Dl

and pepper

FIORI Dl

ZUCCA

ABRUZZO

SQUASH-BLOSSOM SAUCE This

is

a pasta sauce typical of Sulmona. Put part of the

sauce over the pasta 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

garlic clove,

oil

chopped

CONTINUED

72

when

the pasta

Heat the

is

in

the pan; add the rest of the sauce

served, using

olive oil

and

it

lightly

squash blossoms and saute

primarily as decoration.

cook the

briefly.

garlic;

Add

a

add the

little

water

and

Squash blossoms, chopped A few threads saffron

lemon

large egg yolk

1

saffron,

a sieve;

and

boil for 10 to 15 minutes. Pass

add the egg

yolk, pecorino,

and

a

through

few drops of

juice.

Grated pecorino

Lemon juice

SALSA

Dl

NOCI

1

LIGURIA 2 cups walnut halves

Bread from a

WALNUT SAUCE This

is

the classic sauce to use with pansotti (see page 292)

and

is

typical of the Tigullio area.

Grind the walnuts

soaked in milk and squeezed dry

roll,

in a

mortar and

bread, pine nuts, garlic, and a

pestle,

little salt;

adding the

grind until you

have a thick paste (you can choose instead to perform cup pine nuts

Zi

this Zi garlic

operation with a blender on low, beginning with the

clove

nuts and adding the other ingredients). 14

Put the mix-

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

ture in a cup extra-virgin

Zi

bowl and work with a wooden spoon, incorpo-

olive oil

rating the Parmigiano-Reggiano

A few marjoram leaves

marjoram

SALSA

Dl

SALSICCE

TOSCANA

1

and

olive

large onion,

1

9 oz. sausage meat, its

removed from

casing and crumbled

7 oz. fresh porcini (or

1

oz.

oil

chopped

This dish

is

typical of the area

near Monte Amiata and

lukewarm water 30 minutes and drained), roughly chopped

is

called pici (see

oil in

a

pan and add the onion; when the onion

begins to become transparent, add the sausage meat and

mushrooms. Cook about 10 minutes, ally.

in

the

page 316) or another similar pasta.

Heat the

mushrooms

dried porcini soaked

Add

SAUSAGE SAUCE most often served on the thick Tuscan pasta

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil.

last.

Add

needed

stirring occasion-

the tomatoes, salt and pepper to taste, and,

to thin the sauce, the red wine.

if

Continue cook-

ing at very low heat for another 30 minutes.

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and crushed 1

14

lb.

ripe

cup red wine

(if

needed)

SALSA FERRARESE

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

GREEN-PEPPER SAUCE Heat the

olive oil in a

pan over low heat and saute the

onions until translucent; add the green peppers. 14

cup

olive oil

CONTINUED

until the

Cook

peppers have wilted completely, then add the

tomatoes.

Cook

at

low heat,

stirring often, for

about

73

6 oz. red onions, sliced very thin 1

%

lbs.

1

green peppers,

V2 hours. This sauce should be preserved

well-sealed glass jars

and stored

in sterilized

in a cool spot.

sliced very thin

plum tomatoes, chopped

2 lbs. ripe

GREEN SAUCE

SALSA GENOVESE SICILIA 2 tbsp. pine nuts

1

is

Combine

all

ideal for use

on boiled

the ingredients.

fish.

Grind them

in a mortar,

then pass through a sieve; adjust the sauce for

tbsp. capers, well drained

1

This sauce

vinegar, adding

more

salt

and

olive oil for a creamier sauce.

salt-cured anchovy, without bones

or head and cleaned Yolk of

1

large hard-boiled egg 3 pitted green olives 1

1

bunch

chopped

amount

of bread,

1

soaked

garlic clove

flat-leaf parsley,

small

vinegar, salt,

in Zi

and pepper

cup extra-virgin plus

olive

oil,

more as needed

tbsp. vinegar, or to taste

1

Salt

OLIVE

OIL,

LEMON,

|

SALSA SALMORIGLIO

AND GARLIC SAUCE

1

Use this sauce on

CALABRIA

fish

Juice of Vi

cup extra-virgin

lemon

olive

tsp. fresh

oregano

chopped

2 garlic cloves, roughly

chopped

bunch

Salt

1

about to be cooked or pour on cooked

before serving.

Whisk

oil

flat-leaf parsley,

1

1

1

fish

the

lemon

juice

the oregano, parsley, a

and little

olive oil until blended;

pepper,

salt,

and

add

garlic.

and pepper

OLIVE SALSA SALMORIGLIO

2

SICILIA

1

OIL,

LEMON,

AND GARLIC SAUCE

2

The many variations of this sauce include one made without parsley and another

in

which the lemon

is

replaced by an

equal amount of red wine (the version used on the Lipari Islands).

74

Vi

cup

Whisk together

olive oil

2 tbsp. 1

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

ano,

or 2 garlic cloves, minced tbsp.

1

„$alt

SALSETTA

salt,

SICILIA 6 tbsp. almonds, toasted

6

cup breadcrumbs, toasted

fillets

in the top of a

it

!4

cup of warm water.

juice, parsley, garlic, oreg-

whisking until thickened

utes,

I

I

the sauce

thoroughly

is

double boiler for 3 min-

slightly.

ALMOND -AND -ANCHOYY SAUCE Use this sauce on meats and boiled

Pound Zi

and

When

and pepper.

blended cook

oregano

ACCIUGHE

E

oil

and pepper

MANDORLE

Dl

the olive

Gradually whisk in the lemon

Juice of 2 or 3 lemons

of salt-cured anchovies,

minced

the

almonds

fish.

into small pieces

breadcrumbs and anchovies. Blend cinnamon, vinegar, lemon

make

a

juice,

creamy sauce. Blend

and mix with the mint

in the

and enough

leaves,

olive oil to

well.

Several mint leaves, chopped

Pinch ground cinnamon 1

%

cup

tbsp. vinegar

tbsp.

1

olive

oil,

lemon juice

or as needed

SCAGLIUOZZOLI

CAMPANIA

CORNMEAL FRITTERS Setting aside

2

A cup

of the cornmeal, use the rest to pre-

pare a somewhat dense polenta, cooking z 1

/3cups cornmeal Olive

oil

Salt

lightly salted boiling water.

turn

it

out on a slightly

marble). Using

of V2 inch and

damp

let it

has cooled, cut

it

2 to 3 inches long.

cormeal.

Heat

1

When

damp work

it

Dip these one inch of olive

cups of cooked,

out to a thickness

When

cool completely. 1

in 5 fully

it

is

surface (preferably

hands, spread

in rectangles

it

the polenta

to

IZ2 inches wide and

at a

time in the reserved

oil in

a large

the polenta sticks a few at a time, removing

pan and

fry

them when

they form a golden crust. Drain on paper towels, sprinkle

with a

little salt,

and serve

hot.

75

SCALCIONE

PUGLIA

STUFFED PIZZA This rustic stuffed pizza

sumed For the dough: 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus 1

more as needed

tbsp. active dry yeast Salt

For the

filling:

4 fresh anchovies,

boned and Zi

cup pitted black

lightly fried

olives,

chopped

4 tbsp. capers 4 tbsp. golden raisins,

soaked

Good

traditional on

many

Mix

the flour, yeast, a pinch of

prepare a dough.

Cover with

Knead

and

salt,

1

a kitchen towel

and

let rest for

a baking pan. Place the first disk in the

over

it

(as in a Sicilian

capers, raisins, leeks, disk, seal the edges,

fork,

baked

and

pan and spread

pie) anchovies, black olives,

olive

oil.

Close with the second

puncture the top with the tines of a

and bake for about 20 minutes,

until golden.

oil

the Valle d’Aosta, blood pudding (blood sausage)

and

comes from

that

is

is

known as bouden

derived from the old medieval French boudine, which meant a large

blood, milk or cream, lardo,

and legumes.

Celts, Greeks,

belly.

Pliny called blood

The

and Romans who made a mixture

and aromatic herbs thickened with the addition sausages sanguiculi, but

by Phoenician butchers or royal Assyrian cooks. this typical

(bodin), a

a French-Provengal dialect that dates back to the 13th century

sausage was already known to the

When

sausage was made by mixing a portion

it

of

of fruit

seems they were invented

pig’s blood

was

in

ready supply,

of blood with lard, potatoes, milk

or cream, beets, and spices (pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, coriander). Of course

there were variations: using both potatoes and beets or only one of them; using milk or

cream instead

and

dried.

ideal

the

76

was

first

of potatoes. The

sausages were consumed fresh or were preserved

They were eaten cold with dark rye bread or tartifles perboulies, to

elastic.

hour.

part to form a disk. Preheat the oven to 400°F and grease

SANGUINACCIO VALDOSTANO name

1

Divide the dough into two equal parts. Roll out each

LOCAL TRADITION

In

on

cup water to

together until soft and

leeks, sliced lengthwise

2 tbsp. olive

Friday, con-

of the faithful practice

warm water to plump

in

lb.

1

is

to end the fast that

that day.

warm

with boiled potatoes (the

use the old Savoiard term for a kind of potatoes).

instance they were served as an appetizer;

in

the second as a meat course.

In

SCAPECE ALLA VASTESE

ABRUZZO

PICKLED FISH Scapece nia;

3 lbs. good-size fish /skate or shark)

All-purpose flour for dredging Extra-virgin olive

oil

4 cups good white win£ vinegar

A few saffron threads Salt

found

is

there

in

FOR PERSONS

5

Abruzzo, Molise (see below), and Campa-

also the scapace of Naples and the scabeccio of

is

come from

Liguria. All

1

a

word

for pickling that

may

well be

derived from the Portuguese escabeche (“marinated”). Tra-

copious amount of vinegar served to preserve

ditionally, the

the fish for about a month.

Clean the

fish,

cut in equal-size pieces, and dredge in

Heat % inch of

flour.

olive oil until very

hot in a large

pan, and, working in batches, cook the fish until golden.

As the with

cooked, drain on paper towels and sprinkle

fish is

Heat the vinegar

salt.

soon as the vinegar

and add the in a

boils,

saffron.

in a nonreactive pan.

As

remove the pan from the heat

Arrange the pieces of fish

in layers

bowl or earthenware pan and pour over the vinegar

mixture to cover completely. Refrigerate 12 hours or

SCAPECE DE LICETTE

MOLISE

overnight.

The

nade; serve

it

fish is excellent after a

PICKLED FISH

1

handful hard

lb.

fresh anchovies

durum wheat Olive

oil

flour

for frying

this

mari-

2

— small anchovies which

Ideally, this dish calls for alicette

can be eaten whole 1

day in

drained as an appetizer.

— but these

fish

are available only

the

in

spring. Anchovies or sardines can be used as a substitute,

making

it

possible to

make scapece year-round.

Fish pre-

pared this way are excellent after a few days.

Gently rinse the anchovies in a colander. Drain them, For the marinade:

A few sage leaves 1

1

garlic clove,

chopped

cup white wine vinegar Salt

pat dry, then dredge in flour. Heat V2 inch of olive

over high heat and as soon as the fish;

when

they are golden, remove

spoon and drain on paper layer

them

leaves

and

oil

in a glass or garlic over

V2 cup water

the fish while

it is still

them with

each

a slotted

towels. Sprinkle with salt

earthenware bowl.

to a boil in a

layer.

oil

shimmers, fry the

and

Spread sage

Bring the vinegar and

pan and pour

this liquid

hot. Refrigerate at least

over

one day.

77

,

.

VEGETABLE TART

SCARPACCIA

TOSCANA

A sweet version of this dish typical of Camaiore

made

is

with-

out the garlic and onions, on the Tuscan coast. Extra-virgin olive

A

3

(best

lb. if

oil

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Grease a baking pan. Cut the

small zucchini

zucchini in thin

slices, salt to taste,

and

let rest

20 min-

with blossoms)

utes.

Rinse the zucchini to remove the

salt

and pat them

2 large eggs, beaten

Heat 2 tablespoons

dry.

olive oil in a

pan and cook the

4 tbsp. all-purpose flour

Whisk

zucchini until lightly golden. 5 tbsp. plus

1

milk mixture to

an equal amount of water 3 baby onions,

in

Z2

mixture and pour

more fortopping

garlic clove, Salt

make

Combine

a batter.

and

the zucchini,

onions, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and garlic with the egg

thin slices

4 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus

the eggs, flour,

mixed with

tsp. milk

crushed

into the prepared

it all

ture should not be

much more

Drizzle with 3 tablespoons olive

and pepper

30 minutes, or

pan

mix-

(the

than half an inch thick)

until the result

oil

is

and bake

for about

a firm, golden tart.

Serve sprinkled with additional Parmigiano-Reggiano.

SMALL FOCACCIAS WITH TOMATO SAUCE

SCIACAROTTI O FAZZEGNI

LIGURIA

Make bread dough with the flour, yeast mixture, salt, and 1

cup water. Knead together

For the dough: elastic.

3 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

Let

rest,

until the

dough

is

soft

covered with a kitchen towel, for

1

and

hour.

Divide the dough into 8 small pieces. Flatten each

more as needed

piece by

2 14 tsp. active dry yeast

and

hand to form small focaccias about 4 by 8 inches In a

let rest.

pan mix the

olive oil, tomatoes, garlic,

Salt

basil, salt,

utes to

For the sauce: 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 2 lbs. ripe

Cover the

to

35 min-

(if

possible

little

with the sauce and bake them until the dough

I

focaccias

is

golden.

BUCKWHEAT FRITTERS Mix

the two flours with

tain a

A

30

chopped

LOMBARDIA 2

for about

Preheat the oven

and pepper

SCI ATT

1

a thick sauce.

garlic clove

10 basil leaves, Salt

form

a wood-burning oven) to 400°F.

oil

plum tomatoes 1

and pepper and cook

cups buckwheat flour, plus more as needed

dough

that

is

salt,

adding

not overly

soft.

% cup water to obAdd the cheese and

until the dough becomes stringy, then let it rest „ for about 2 hours. Just before frying blend in the bak-

knead

CONTINUED ing

78

powder

(or yeast)

.

Heat the

oil

(or lard) in the

pan

1

A

cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

until

cheese), cut

in

shimmers, then use a spoon to scoop out a

little

cheese,

and drop

in the-

Fry

oil.

until golden,

then drain

small dice

K-tbsp. baking

on paper

powder

oil

towels. Serve hot, usually with a salad, prefer-

ably of chicory.

(or Vi tsp. active dry yeast)

Olive

it

of the dough, being careful to include a few bits of

10 oz. bitto (or other cow’s-milk

(or lard) Salt

I

SEDANO AL GORGONZOLA

PIEMONTE

I

GORGONZOLA-STUFFED CELERY Cut the

celery into lengths about 3 inches long; blend

the two kinds of cheese

and

stuff into the celery.

6 celery hearts

4

oz.

Gorgonzola piccante 4 oz.

mascarpone

LOCAL TRADITION

SPALLA COTTA This boiled in it

porksalame

is

SAN SECONDO

Dl

typical ofthe area of

Emilia-Romagna. The shoulder

is

San Secondo

in

the lowlands of Parma,

the most ancient pork specialty ofthe Parma area;

has been known since 1170 and was a favorite of Giuseppe Verdi’s. The boiled ver-

sion

is

particularly good served

of only kitchen salt

warm.

weighs more than 10 pounds. The

warm water

It

and crushed pepper salt is

for 8 to 12 hours. Then

it

is

is

in

made

of

pork shoulder with the addition

established quantities. The average spalla

removed from the meat by soaking put

in

a pot with a great deal of

it

in

luke-

water and

boiled at low heat for about 8 hours.

79

SFRICONE

PUGLIA

!

TOMATO SAUCE

SPICY Hunks

of stale

bread make the best dip for

this

sauce typical

of Bisceglie.

cup extra-virgin

Va

olive oil

2 or 3 garlic cloves 1

diavolillo (spicy chili pepper;

note,

see

Heat the lillo

olive oil until hot

until the garlic

and cook

garlic

and diavo-

until a thick

salt

sauce forms. You can increase the

page 22)

volume by thinning with

a

little

water.

plum tomatoes, and chopped

ripe

lb.

1

and cook the

golden; add the tomatoes and

is

peeled, seeded,

Salt

SPUMA PICCANTE D FORM AGGIO 1

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

SPICY CHEESE SPREAD Blend a

tbsp.

mustard

tbsp. flat-leaf parsley,

chopped

1

9

oz. ricotta 'A

of the ingredients, except the paprika, to form Stir in the paprika.

tbsp. capers

1

1

all

creamy mixture.

or stracchino

medium

onion, sliced

caraway seeds

>$tsp.

4 tbsp. unsalted butter 2 tbsp. 1

chopped chives

anchovy, boned and

head removed 1

tbsp. paprika

SUPPLI AL TELEFONO

LAZIO

RICE CROQUETTES They’re called suppli al telefono (“telephone style”) because

the strands of melted mozzarella resemble telephone wires. 4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

medium 1

oil

onion,

minced

celery stalk,

minced

12

oz.

ground beef

Suppli can be ents,

made without meat and

food writers see this variation of the

word

suppli,

diner simply doesn’t Zi

many

ingredi-

in

the

filling

which they claim

know what

is

as the derivation

from surprise. The

to expect

in

the

filling.

cup white wine Zi

cup broth

2 cups tomato puree

CONTINUED

Heat the

olive oil in a

pan and saute the onion and

ery;

add the ground beef and brown.

and

let it

and cook

80

using

such as chicken giblets or mushrooms or peas. Some

evaporate.

Add

until a thick

the broth

sauce forms.

Pour

in the

cel-

wine

and tomato puree

Cook

the rice in

%

2 Yi cups rice

4 cups of lightly salted boiling water, drain, and combine

5 tbsp. unsalted butter

with the meat mixture, butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano,

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Pinch grated nutmeg 4 large eggs, beaten 5

oz. rppzzarella,

diced

4 cups extra-virgin olive

oil

for frying 1

cups all-purpose

14

plus 1

14

flour,

more as needed

cups breadcrumbs Salt

and nutmeg. Adjust

level

it

them

out.

Let

Season the eggs and add half of

cool.

it

With the palms of your hands shape

to the rice.

the rice mixture into flattened ovals the size of a small

orange. Poke a hole in the middle of each and insert 2 pieces of mozzarella, then close the rice around the

cheese to form a

up

all

One by one

ball.

Heat

the rice.

Continue

crisp

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

this until

you have used

several inches of oil in a saucepan.

dip the suppli in the flour, then eggs, then

breadcrumbs. Fry a few

TARTUFI BIANCHI ALLA PARMIGI ANA

rice on a work wooden spoon to

Spread the

for sah.

surface (preferably of marble), using a

at a

time in the olive

and golden and drain on paper

oil until

towels. Serve hot.

WHITE TRUFFLES WITH PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO Preheat the oven to 350°F and butter a baking pan. Clean the truffles with a brush, eliminating any dirt, then finely

3 tbsp. unsalted butter

214

%

lb.

oz.

white truffles

Parmigiano-Reggiano, cut

in

shave using a truffle sheer.

on the bottom of the pan, Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Form a layer of truffle slices salt,

Make

and cover with half the

a second layer of truffles,

slivers

Toasted bread slices

add salt again, and cover with the remaining ParmigianoReggiano.

Add

a

few pats of butter and bake for about

Salt 1

5 minutes, or until

it

forms a golden

crust.

Serve with

toasted bread.

TARTUFI

IN

TEGAMINO

CAMPANIA

BAKED TRUFFLES This dish

is

typical of Bagnoli Irpino.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Clean the truffles and cut them 2 oz. black truffles (the ideal

would be the scorzoni del Laceno from Bagnoli Irpino) 2

/i

in slices

about

1

to

1

Vz

inches in width and place them,

together with the pieces of pecorino and the butter, in 4

cup crumbled pecorino

ovenproof bowls or ramekins. Bake

2 tbsp. unsalted butter,

gins to melt, about

1

until the cheese be-

2 minutes.

cut into 4 pieces

81

TERRINA D ANATRA I

PIEMONTE

DUCK TERRINE Mix

the eggs, parsley,

salt,

and pepper.

oven to 400°F. Line a loaf pan with the 2 large eggs, beaten 2 tbsp.

chopped 1

Ya

flat-leaf

duck breast, sliced

lb.

cup lardo (see page 1

parsley

oz.

2), sliced

pancetta, minced

7 oz.

mushroom caps 1

Salt

Preheat the slices

of lardo,

extending them above the rim. Cover the bottom with a layer of duck, a layer of pancetta, then

one of mush-

rooms, then pour over the egg mixture. Close by folding Place a bay leaf on top, cover with alu-

over the lard.

minum

foil,

removing

it

and bake

for

about

1

hour. Let cool before

from the pan.

bay leaf

and pepper

RICOTTA AND SAUSAGE TESTI D

1

TURCO

SICILIA

DUMPLINGS This dish

Use 1

2

A cups

all-purpose flour,

plus

more as needed

is

let it rest

1

/a

cups fresh

1

oz.

30 minutes.

1

1

white (set aside the re-

0 to form a smooth dough;

Preheat the oven to 325°F and

generously grease a pan with

lard. Roll the

a sheet, then use a large glass to cut

dough out

to

an even number of

ricotta,

passed through a sieve 12

San Cataldo.

maining whites) as on page

3 large eggs, separated

Lard

typical of

the flour, 3 egg yolks, and

fresh pork sausage

Beat the reserved egg whites until frothy.

disks.

the ricotta, sausage, cinnamon,

and

salt

Mix

and pepper.

Pinch ground cinnamon

Place a spoonful of the ricotta mixture at the center of

chocolate, melted

half the disks, then cover with the other disks. Firmly

and pepper

down to seal. Brush the edges with the Mix the remaining egg whites with the chocolate and a few tablespoons water to make a Bake for 20 minutes, then “polish” the dumpglaze.

oz. bitter

Salt

close,

then press

reserved egg whites.

lings with the

TIMBALLO CON SALSICCIA SICILIA

egg mixture and bake 5 minutes more.

SAUSAGE TIMBALE This dish

is

typical of Gela.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease a baking pan with Olive

oil

olive 4

oz.

fresh sausage

CONTINUED

oil.

Heat 2 tablespoons

olive oil in a

the sausage. Drain and cut in pieces. the pan,

and season with

salt;

pan and brown

Add the potatoes to

saute and set aside

when

tender. Boil the cauliflower until half cooked. Drain then

82

1

large potato, peeled and cut

1

chop

large chunks

in

Zi lb.

medium

the lard into the

Yeasted bread dough

%

to about

(see page 13)

Add

the cauli-

the sausage

and potatoes

dough and

to the

Blend

out on a floured board

roll

inch thick. Divide this in two uneven parts.

tbsp. lard

Use

the larger part cover the

andjDepper

pan.

Fill

1

Salt

same pan

Add

in.

pan; add the olives and sprinkle with pepper.

4 pitted black olives

•

the onion in the

and potatoes were cooked

flower; salt to taste.

onion, sliced

Cook

in small pieces.

the sausage

cauliflower

bottom and

sides of the

with the mixture, then cover with the smaller

sheet of dough, carefully sealing the edges. Brush the

surface with olive until the top

j

TORTA COL SAMBUCO SICILIA

is

For the dough:

plus

This dish

is

30 to 40 minutes, or

typical of Triona. In Sicily this dish

Use the flour, yeast, lard, 2 milk,

and

a

dash of

is

made

in

May

of the elderberry flowering.

eggs, 2 whites (reserve 2 yolks),

salt to

prepare a dough.

elastic.

Let the dough

more as needed gether until soft and

2’/4 tsp.

for

MEAT PIE WITH ELDERBERRY and June, the season

3 cups all-purpose flour,

Bake

oil.

golden.

Knead

rise in a

to-

warm

active dry yeast

spot for at least 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Meanwhile, make the

Heat 2 tablespoons

3 Va oz. lard filling.

olive oil

2 large eggs

and brown the guanciale then drain on paper ,

2 large eggs, separated

2Zz cups milk

Work

1

tablespoon olive

dough in 1

tbsp. olive

oil

into the

towels.

dough. Divide the

roll

out half of it to a sheet large enough

bottom of

a high-sided baking pan. Layer the

half and

oil

to line the Salt

dough with the salame, guanciale tuma, ,

For the Va

cup

7 oi. guanciale,

filling:

olive oil

chopped

7 oz. salame, preferably rustic, sliced

flowers,

and

drizzle with

other half of the dough.

tablespoon olive

more elderberry until golden.

oil

1

tablespoon

a

few elderberry

oil.

Cover with the

Mix the reserved egg yolks with

1

and brush on the dough. Sprinkle with

flowers.

Bake

for about

40 minutes

Serve hot.

oz.tuma (unsalted

7

goat’s-milk cheese)

6

oz.

elderberry flowers, chopped

83

TORTA DOLCE SALATA

BASILICATA For the dough: 1

cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

14

14 1

Zi

cup

(1

cup sugar

large egg yolk

stick) unsalted butter,

cut 1

in

small pieces

large egg, beaten

CHEESE TART Mix

together the flour, sugar, egg yolk, a pinch of

and

butter.

elastic.

filling:

Olive

oil

5 oz. ricotta, pressed

through a sieve 3

oz.

together until the

Shape the dough

ered, in a cool spot for

350°F and grease

into a ball 1

dough

and

is

salt,

and

soft

let it rest,

cov-

Preheat the oven to

hour.

a baking

ricotta, caciotta, mozzarella,

pan with

olive

oil.

Mix

the

and prosciutto until blended.

Add the sugar, egg, egg yolk, and pecorino, kneading the mixture

Divide the dough into two parts, one

well.

larger than the other. Roll these out to

Use

disks.

For the

Knead

make two

thin

the larger disk to line the pan, extending

over the sides.

it

Add the filling, spreading it out to make it

even. Cover with the other disk of dough, folding the

borders to

Bake for

1

Brush the dough with the beaten egg.

seal.

hour or

until golden.

fresh caciotta cheese, cubed 1

3

oz.

small mozzarella, cubed prosciutto crudo, diced J4 1

1

cup sugar large egg

large egg yolk

2tbsp. grated pecorino Salt

TORTA

E D I

TORTEI PATATE

POTATO PIE OR "TARTLETS” Instead of this potato pie, one can

2) (or olive oil)

and frying them

8 medium-size

make excellent and fast make small flatbreads

TRENTINO

“tartlets” using the

Lardo (see page

mature potatoes

3tbsp. all-purpose flour

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

same mixture

to

in olive oil.

Preheat the oven to about 400°F. Generously grease a

baking pan with lardo or olive grate

of

them with

salt

oil.

a cheese grater.

and work

Peel the potatoes

and

Add the flour and a dash

to blend evenly.

Turn

this

mixture into

the pan, sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano, and bake until the surface

84

forms a golden

crust.

TORTA PASQUALIN LIGURIA

EASTER TART Use 6 cups salt,

6 cups plus 2 tbsp. all-purpose flour,

plus

until the

more as needed six

4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

flour,

lbs.

dough

let

oil,

a pinch of

dough. Knead together

a

and

elastic.

Divide the dough in

them

rest for

1

soft

is

equal balls and

form

to

hour, covered with

Clean the vegetables, removing any ribs;

vegetables (leeks, Spinach, artichokes, chard)

1

tablespoon of the olive

oil

a kitchen cloth. 2

1

and 2 cups water

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano tbsp.

1

rinse well. Blanch in lightly salted boiling water until

Drain

wilted.

well,

roughly chop, and mix with V2 cup

marjoram

leaves

Parmigiano-Reggiano and marjoram

cups

ricotta

the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking

1

Vi

4 large eggs Salt

dough

Roll out three of the six balls of sheets.

Brush with

and

olive oil

Preheat

leaves.

pan with to

olive

oil.

form very thin

layer to line the pan.

Put

the vegetable mixture in the pan and spread to an even

Mix

layer.

the ricotta with 2 tablespoons flour, then

spoon over the vegetables.

make four

Salt to taste.

and break an egg

into each one.

ing Parmigiano-Reggiano.

dough

three balls of olive oil

Using a spoon

wells in the surface of the vegetable mixture

and

layer

form

to

them

Cover with the remain-

Roll out the remaining sheets,

brush them with

to cover the pan. Seal the edges.

Brush the surface with a little

olive oil

and bake

for about

45 minutes. Serve warm.

TORTA SALATA

Dl

ZUCCA

LOMBARDIA

SQUASH CAKE It is

best to

mona 3 lbs. winter squash,

seeded and cut 3 tbsp.

mostarda

di

in

pieces

its

liquid

2 cups finely chopped almonds Juice and grated zest of 3

A

3

A cup

Zi

lemon

make the mixture

a

day ahead. Mostarda di Cre-

a kind of savory preserves

made from

fruit.

Preheat the oven to 350°F and bake the squash for about

40 minutes, or

Cremona

(see note), chopped,

with 2 tbsp. of

is

liquid.

until soft.

Scoop out the

the mostarda ,

its

Let cool, then squeeze out any

flesh

liquid,

and discard the

peel.

almonds, lemon juice and

Mix zest,

V2 cup breadcrumbs, cheese, eggs, nutmeg, and salt; last, add the squash. Heat the butter and cook the garlic until

cup breadcrumbs

golden. Discard the garlic, then use half of the butter to

grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

grease a baking pan. Pour in the squash mixture. Dust

2 large eggs, beaten

with the remaining breadcrumbs and drizzle with the

Pinch grated nutmeg

remaining butter. Bake for about

1

hour

until set.

4 tbsp. O/2 stick) unsalted butter 2 garlic cloves Salt

85

TORTANO CON CIGOLI

CAMPANIA

BREAD WITH PORK This dish

Use 4/4 cups all-purpose flour,

more as needed

plus

to

form

4Zi tsp. active dry yeast lb.

cigoli (ciccioli;

see note, page 12) Salt

PIEMONTE lb.)

chopped

flat-leaf 1

medium

and

the cigoli

Form

as

make

it

done on page elastic

and

the

let rise in a

dough

warm

into a ring

and

let it rest, 1

bake

onion,

chopped

Pre-

STEWED FRITTATA STRIPS This dish

is

typical of Vercelli.

together the parsley and onion. Heat the olive

over low heat and cook until the onion

is

oil

translucent.

Add

the tomato puree

and broth mixture, then add if

salt

needed.

oil

2 tbsp. tomato puree

Mix the

eggs, milk,

cast-iron

and Parmigiano-Reggiano. In

pan over low

heat,

cook the eggs

to

and

it;

a large

form

a

tbsp. all-purpose flour,

dissolved

in

1

plus

cup

warm

broth,

more as needed Unsalted butter

6 large eggs, beaten J4

wide, thin

frittata.

slices in the

and

let it

Roll the frittata

slice

Salt

at

can also be served

at

room

temperature.

and pepper

LOCAL TRADITION I

A

Another economical recipe for a rustic meat gelatin (see page Ceriana de Imperia

and boiled

black pepper.

37), zeaia, typical of

made of meat broth and bits of pork, pork rind, trotmany dishes made with game, it is best with a dusting of

in Liguria, is

rabbit. Like

stir,

low heat for another 10 minutes. This

cup milk

Z E A

put the

pan with the parsley and onion mixture,

cook

2 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

86

hour.

about 45 minutes.

until golden,

and pepper. Simmer, adding more broth

ters,

Add

spot covered by a cloth.

parsley

2 tbsp. olive

1

13, then

velvety.

heat the oven to 300°F. Place the ring into a pie pan and

Chop (Z4

dough

and pepper

FRITA AN BAGNA

Z2 cup

a very soft

a long time to

it

Zi stick

unsalted butter)

Z2

typical of Salerno.

the flour, lard (or butter), salt and pepper, and yeast

knead 4 tbsp. lard (or

is

BITS

TROTELLE Dl SESIA IN CARPIONE

MARINATED TROUT

PIEMONTE

To

create the carpione (marinade), heat 2 tablespoons

olive oil in a pan, saute the Olive

3

oil

medium

onions, finely

chopped

1

carrot, finely

chopped

bay

leaves.

and vinegar and remove from the Heat

fillets.

2 baty leaves 1

1

A

A

inch of olive

1

trouts until golden.

cups dry white wine

ate for at least

Salt

I

48 hours. Serve

In a wide pan,

4 salt-cured anchovies,

it!).

4 garlic cloves,

chopped

cold.

combine the anchovies,

and

spagnolino.

Add

oil

and saute

Add the vinegar and lemon juice and cook another In another pan,

parsley

fry the eggs to over-easy, then

2 sage leaves, chopped

pour the cooked mixture

over them, blending well to combine the flavors.

chopped capers (chili

garlic, parsley,

the olive

2 minutes, then remove from the heat. flat-leaf

spagnoimo

deep

stand until at

over low heat for 2 minutes (being careful not to darken

boned and chopped

2 tbsp.

let

fry the

in a

FRIED EGGS IN SAUCE sage, capers,

Vi

them

and pepper

PIEMONTE

chopped

place

filleted

UOVA AL CIRIGHET

2 tbsp.

Dry them and

pan and

each,

lb.

cleaned and

Flour the trout

heat.

a large

room temperature. Cover with plastic wrap and refriger-

All-purpose flour 1

oil in

Cover with the marinade and

pan.

cups white wine vinegar

2 trout, about

onions and carrot, then add

When the mixture has browned, add the wine

pepper),

chopped

h cup extra-virgin olive oil Vs

cup red wine vinegar Juice of

1

lemon

8 large

eggs

UOVA ALLA MONACHINA

CAMPANIA 6 large hard-boiled eggs

Thick bechamel sauce with'

1

/i

made

I

STUFFED EGGS Shell the hard-boiled eggs

6

and cut

in half lengthwise; sep-

Using a

arate the yolks

from the whites.

yolks with the

bechamel sauce (or

Reggiano,

pepper, and nutmeg. Arrange

salt,

FOR PERSONS

fork,

ricotta),

mix the

Parmigianothis

mixture

cups milk (see page 339) (or

1

% cups ricotta)

2 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

CONTINUED

in half the

egg whites, shaping

form of a whole whites.

it

to give

it

the

rounded

yolk, then top with the other halves of the

Hour the “eggs,” then

dip

them

in the beaten egg,

then delicately dip them in breadcrumbs, being careful

87

Pinch grated nutmeg

1

that they maintain their shape.

All-purpose flour

olive oil in a large

large egg, beaten

until golden.

pan and

Heat

several inches of

fry the eggs a

few

at a

time

Drain on paper towels and .serve hot.

Breadcrumbs Olive oil

Salt

and pepper

UOVA CON

L’AGLIO

TOSCANA

EGGS IN GARLIC SAUCE This dish

is

typical of Cecina.

Boil the garlic cloves in water to cover for 10 minutes. 10 garlic cloves 2 salt-cured anchovies,

Drain and grind

Mix

pers.

cleaned and boned handful capers

1

% cup extra-virgin olive

mortar with the anchovies and caoil,

per to create a sauce. Put half of

vinegar, this

salt,

and pep-

sauce in a bowl to

serve at the table. Spread the other half over the eggs. oil

3 tbsp. white wine vinegar Salt

in a

into this the olive

Serve with bread.

and pepper

10 large hard-boiled eggs, cut

Bread, fried

UOVA

in

half lengthwise

in

butter, for serving

IN

FUNGHETTO

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

EGGS AND MUSHROOMS This dish it

6 large hard-boiled eggs

%

lb.

mushrooms

(or leeks),

thinly sliced J4

cup

finely

parsley

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

and pepper

is

served most often

in

homes, not restaurants, for

looked upon as “humble”; yet

it

is

very tasty, simple, and

open to many variations.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Shell the eggs and cut in half lengthwise. Spread an even layer of mushrooms or leeks

chopped

flat-leaf

Salt

is

in a

baking pan, then set the eggs on

it

with the yolks up-

ward. Salt and pepper and sprinkle with parsley and pats of butter.

Bake for several minutes,

until the butter

has melted and the eggs are heated through.

VOL AU VENT CON RADICCHIO E FONDUTA

VENETO

VOL-AU-VENT WITH RADICCHIO AND CHEESE In a blender, combine the egg yolks with 2 tablespoons

of the milk; set aside. 2 large egg yolks

1%cups

milk

CONTINUED

88

Mix

the flour into the remaining

milk and add the cheese. Heat over very low heat and

whisk

add

energetically.

When the mixture begins to thicken,

in the yolk mixture and,

still

stirring,

cook for

1

level tbsp.

7 oz. fresh

another

all-purpose flour

Monte Baldo cheese and

1

0 minutes.

Salt,

tbsp. unsalted butter

Return to the heat

%

lb.

(if

red radicchio, cut

Add

heat.

briefly^ just to

if

neces-

the radicchio.

heat the mixture.

Fill

chopped

finely

the pastry shell, grating 1

add a pat of butter

and remove from the

sary,

(or Fontina), without rind

some black

truffle

over the top.

needed)

in

pieces

large vol-au-vent paltry shell, baked

1

1

black truffle %

Salt

ZEPPULELLE

’E PASTA CRISCIUTA

FRIED BREAD PUFFS

CAMPANIA

Zeppulelle are best

serted Zi oz. active

dissolved

in \4

cup

dry yeast,

Mix

cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed Sunflower

a

salt

and knead

smooth and

towel and set

oil

a piece of anchovy or boiled cod

to

is in-

make

as instructed

water,

on page

1

and

a

3 to form

dough. Cover with a clean dish-

elastic

it

aside to rise.

which time the dough

Salt

% cup

the yeast mixture with the flour,

warm water dash of

3

if

them.

in

will

After about 2 hours, by

have expanded, use a spoon

large gnocchi, about the size of

several inches of oil in a

pan and

an egg. Heat

fry the gnocchi until

golden. Drain on paper towels and serve hot.

ZUCCA GIALLA "CA GGHIATA"

CALABRIA 2 lbs. yellow winter 3

A cup

olive Yu

oil,

plus

more

squash

for frying

cup white wine vinegar 3 tbsp. capers 1

garlic clove, sliced

Several mint leaves 1

cup breadcrumbs, toasted Salt

1

FRIED SQUASH Peel the squash,

remove the

seeds,

and cut

in thin slices.

Mix a gallon of water with Vz cup salt and add the squash. Keep the slices in the brine about 1 hour, then rinse and dry

well.

squash

Heat an inch of

until golden; drain

olive oil in a

and

olive oil, vinegar, capers, garlic,

crumbs and of squash a

stir until

slices

on

pan and

set aside.

mint

leaves,

thoroughly blended.

a serving plate

fry the

Mix % cup and breadPut a layer

and spread over

this

of the sauce; form another layer of squash and

little

cover with more of the sauce, continuing until

all

the

ingredients have been used. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, press

about

down 1

with the palms of the hand, and

let rest for

hour before serving.

89

CHAPTER

TWO

ACQUA PAZZA

TOSCANA

"CRAZY WATER” SOUP Recipes throughout central

and 6 garlic cloves

cup nepetella (see note)

14

Pinch

chili

pepper flakes 1

cup

olive oil

Italy

(most of

one typical of the

Lazio), like this

Some cookbook authors suggest way

it

Toscana, Umbria, area, call for

mint that go by a variety of names.

local types of small-leafed

should

all

Maremma

substituting calamint,

be available. There are also those

to duplicate the flavor

is

who

claim the only

to buy nepetella seeds (avail-

able from seed catalogs and on the Internet) and 2 lbs. zerri, cleaned but with

the heads

on (see note)

still

Slices of peasant-style bread

course, you can choose to experiment with your

grow it. Of own locally

available types of mint. Zerri are small reef fish; whitebait

can be substituted. Salt

In a mortar, grind together the garlic, nepetella, and

pepper least

cup per person) over high heat and when

1

add the

olive oil

and

for 10 minutes, then

attention to keep

of bread (best

if

salt as

add the

continue cooking the

fish;

ACQUACOTTA

TOSCANA 2tbsp. olive

oil

mushrooms, cleaned and roughly chopped lb.

porcini

1

/a

garlic clove

cup nepetella

Acquacotta

is

it

is

Place a slice

and pour over

a traditional

soup that started among peasant

and

an earthenware pot.

nepetella,

Add 1

unique

is

or 2

bread

the tomato puree

more cups

among many

in

mushroom-tomato bowl and

the

mush-

and pepper

until the

a

as

little

sauce

if

you want

to stretch

Cover and cook over

Meanwhile, mix the eggs

into a large bowl.

suspension

warm

Add

Whisk

broth. The result should be a

let it sit for

bowls over

and cook

diners).

low heat for 20 minutes.

and cheese and pour

salt

add 4 cups of warm water

for the pot,

and pepper

liquid, not a

adding

mushrooms have taken on

thickens. When that happens,

(plus

92

fish.

coastal area of Toscana. Legend says

hilly,

olive oil in

garlic,

the soup Salt

and

one of the few soups not made from stock.

Heat the rooms,

color.

slices of toasted

needed. Pay

is

water that would become the soup. Acquacotta that

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Warm

time

little

that each diner would bring something to add to the boiling

cup tomato puree

4 large eggs, beaten

the heat

up.

needed. Saute until the

14

very

high heat

at a

Lower

them from breaking

(see note above) 14

needed. Boil fish.

"COOKED WATER” CASENTINO-STYLE SOUP farmers of the

1

(at

boils,

toasted) in a serving bowl

the acqua pazza, then the

CASENTINESE

it

which will become homogeneous.

garlic mixture,

Add the

chili

Put enough water for soup in a pot

flakes.

like stracciatella.

4 or 5 minutes.

toasted bread.

in the

smooth

Cover the

Serve

warm

in

COOKED WATER” SOUP WITH WILD HERBS

ACQUACOTTA CON

LE "ERBARELLE”

LAZIO

In Viterbo,

the term erbarelle

is

wild greens that can be gathered

1

medium

seriola), yellow rattle

pepper flakes

(

chopped

(

Rhinanthus

parsnips

(

Pastinaca sativa), salad burnet (

,

bread (

per person (preferably homemade)

Campanula

bunch fresh wild 1

fennel,

chopped

Poterium

rampion

(

campion

(

Silene inflata),

Valerianella olitoria), and wild beet. Several

soups can be made using even just one of these greens, or

large egg per person (optional) Olive

Taraxacum

rapuriculus), bladder

lamb’s lettuce 1

(

officinalis),

chopped

slice of stale peasant-style

you can work with a mix

oil

in this

recipe. The dialect

vary from area to area

the English-speaking world, for

in

which reason we have also given the Carefully chili

wash the

erbarelle

scientific

names.

and combine with the

until the erbarelle are tender.

salt.

Cook

if

you want

to turn the

Pour into individual bowls

few minutes that has not

MARCHE

in covered bowls, then

lb.

1

potatoes, peeled and sliced

medium

onion, in thick slices

A few slices of stale bread 1

garlic clove, cut in half

Let

it

rest a

remove any broth

been absorbed by the bread and sprinkle the oil,

preferably from Toscana.

MARCHE-STYLE

("COOKED WATER” SOUP Cook

the potatoes and onion in lightly salted boiling

water to cover until tender. 1

egg per person,

1

directly into the broth.

acquacotta with olive

I

If desired,

soup into a one-dish meal,

toward the end of the cooking add

poached or beaten

Add

over low heat

over slices of stale bread and top with fennel.

and

garlic,

pepper, tomatoes, and onion in a saucepan.

water to cover and season with

ACQUACOTTA

names vary

throughout the area, much as the names for these plants

Salt

M ARCHIGI AN A

thistle

(

sanguisorba) dandelions 1

sow

crista-galli),

fall

vol-

( Lactuca

Sonchus oleraceus), narrowleaf plantain Plantago lanceo-

lata),

onion,

( Cichorium intybus), prickly lettuce

gare), chicory

3 garlic cloves, unpeeled

2 cups grape tomatoes,

both the

and spring. Among these are “caccialepre” ( Picridium

2 lbs. erbarelle (see note)

14 tsp. chili

applied to a large group of in local fields in

then rub with the bread.

Add

garlic.

the nepetella,

Meanwhile, toast the bread,

Line a serving bowl with the

and pour the

entire contents of

the pot into the prepared serving bowl (the bread will

soak up the cooking water).

A few leaves of nepetella (see note, page 92), preferably gathered

in

the wild

93

LOCAL TRADITION

ACQUACOTTA LAZIALE Acquacotta

the most typical and traditional dish of central

is

Italy, still

prepared today

throughout the province of Viterbo using ingredients that vary from place to place. The term acquacotta means “cooked water” and for centuries this dish has been the

meal of the people of the countryside of the Tuscia region and,

daily

herdsmen, the famous

of the cattle

involve a fried fatty cut of

ingredients

meat

— bacon,

oil.

Acquacotta

fundamental base

is

in

communal,

and since

moment.

in

their knapsacks on their

it

village ovens. Inevitably, the

was out

became the basis

of the question to

matter how small that land might in

way to work. Peasant

large ovens near the

nearby Toscana

be.

in

farmhouse

bread would get hard after a few days,

throw away even

peasants since there were always a few

made

in

a stale crust, this

for various simple dishes, including acquacotta

soups. The other fundamental element, olive

those

—the

the bread, often stale and hard, which peasants and butteri,

shepherds as well as fishermen, put

in

region

water, without the presence of any

families tended to bake bread once a week, either

or

particular,

thus a poor person's food, prepared with the prod-

is

ucts of the land available at that Its

in

Maremma

“cowboys” of the

prosciutto, guanciale, salt pork, or lard

acquacotta are cooked directly

in

except olive

fat

butteri, the

Acquacotta differs from true soups because, while soups always

of Toscana-Lazio.

was always

oil,

olive trees

hard bread

and other bread

available

in

the

homes

of

on the land they cultivated, no

Versions of acquacotta

that raw, unfiltered olive

made oil is

Lazio differ

from

added to each

indi-

in

vidual plate.

The third necessary element

is

the aromatic herbs,

grant nepetella (see note, page 92), easily found followed by garlic

still in its

skin

in

first

among them

the highly fra-

the sunny fields of the

Maremma,

and by onion, which often enough, instead

cooked together with the other herbs, was eaten raw

ment to the acquacotta. Vegetables are the

final

like

of being

an apple as an accompani-

necessary component, and aside from

the constant presence of potatoes and tomatoes, these vary according to the season

and

local availability.

hops,

Most often these include wild herbs, such as cardoons, campion,

mushrooms, asparagus,

typical

is

wild chicory.

beets, parsnips,

Homemade versions

and

nettles. But the

of this dish also

most common and

make use

of legumes, since

they add to the dish’s caloric value. Also used were the vegetables available to peasants in

their gardens, such as broccoli, cabbage, spinach, turnips,

squash blossoms, and

artichokes; the shepherd could add such sheep's-milk cheeses as pecorino; and fisher-

men

enriched

it

with lake

fish.

Home-style versions of acquacotta might also be enriched

with the addition of dried cod or eggs, usually one per person.

94

ACQUACOTTA

MAREMMANA

1

LAZIO

MAREMMA-STYLE COOKED WATER” SOUP Peel the potatoes, cut

them

1

and put them

in half,

in a

large potatoes

4,

4 garlic cloves

medium

2

lb.

1

onions, sliced

plum toVnatoes

(preferably small ones), chopped

and bring to

pour over the bread, warm water or broth should be

liquid. (see note, page 92)

dried

chili

pepper

Meat or vegetable broth, as needed 2 lbs. wild chicory 1

lb.

salt-dried cod or

per person

1

large egg

(if

few minutes to eliminate

which not everyone

also to

in

make

it

oil

soup

into

medium-size pieces and soak

water or milk to cover in the fridge overnight. When

the soup has cooked 15 minutes,

Olive

bitter flavor,

into the

desired)

Stale peasant-style bread

(preferably

its

stir

To turn this into a one-dish meal, more flavorful, you can add salt-

Cut the cod

dried cod:

Drain and

likes.

just before serving.

and

to maintain the quantity of

Cook the chicory separately in lightly salted water

to cover for a

it

pepper

chili

to a boil. In order to have sufficient liquid

added during the cooking

2 or 3 sprigs fresh nepetella

1

and

the garlic, onions, tomatoes, nepetella,

pot

Add

with lightly salted water to cover by several inches.

homemade)

(preferably from Tuscia) Salt

stead of cod,

some

prefer at the

add the cod. Or,

end

to

person, poached directly in the broth.

add

1

in-

egg per

When the

cook-

ing has finished, arrange the slices of stale bread in individual soup bowls

and pour over them the cooking broth

together with the chicory, potatoes, and a piece of cod or

poached

Let this

egg.

rest a

few minutes with the

covered, so that the bread will soak

up

liquid,

plates

then dis-

pose of any residual liquid not absorbed by the bread. Sprinkle on top the olive

oil,

preferably one with a ro-

bust and typical local flavor.

ACQUACOTTA

MAREMMANA

2

TOSCANA

MAREMMA-STYLE "COOKED WATER” SOUP was flavored

% 1

medium

cup

olive oil

onion, sliced

2tbsp. aromatic herbs (basil,

celery leaves)

4 chard leaves, chopped 1

tbsp. grated pecorino,

plus

more 14

2

The original acquacotta was prepared only with onions and only with pecorino; the addition of an egg

rare, not to mention

thermore,

Heat the

it

mushrooms, asparagus, and so

was made using water,

olive oil in a

was

on. Fur-

not broth.

pot over low heat, add the onion,

tomato puree,

Add the herbs, chard leaves, and Add the and broth. You may need to add water if

the mixture

too dense.

and saute until golden. pecorino.

Cook

2 minutes, then add the wine.

for serving is

Simmer

for 15 minutes.

Pre-

cup red wine

CONTINUED

pare the bowls (preferably earthenware) by lining them

with

slices

of toasted bread.

Break the eggs gently and

95

3

A

lb.

tomato puree 4 cups broth

Slices of bread, toasted

4 large eggs

poach them

PUGLIA

up

preferably toasted,

about

Zi

inch thick

2 garlic cloves

2 fresh plum tomatoes, preferably very juicy Olive

2 sprigs oregano, 1

medium

oil

chopped

onion,

minced

egg

1

more pecorino,

the liquid, sprinkle each serving with serve.

"SALTED WATER” SOUP This soup, typical of the Tavoliere plains,

the most important 4 slices of stale black bread,

Ladle out

Wait several minutes for the bread to soak

tion of soup.

and

ACQUASALA

in the broth for 3 minutes.

per person and place in^each bowl along with a por-

— and most

right kind of bread,

difficult

is

quite simple, but

— part

is

finding the

which should be whole wheat and which

should ideally be baked

in

a

wood-burning oven. The slices of

bread can be toasted, but must be

made

1

can be

stale. Variations

by eliminating the onions or the garlic or adding a

sweet red pepper, a

little

celery leaves, or even a few

little basil,

pieces of anchovy, whether fresh or salt-cured.

Dampen the bread slightly with water to make it soft without making

Chop

too soggy).

it

sprinkle pieces over each slice; cut

and rub

a half across each slice to

and

add tomato seeds and

them

let

and

open the tomatoes and onion.

Set

rest at least 2

hours

liquid; sprinkle with olive oil, oregano,

aside the bread slices

(but

the garlic

before being served so they can completely soak

up

the

flavors.

ACQUASALE BASILICATA

"SALTED WATER” SOUP olive oil in a

4 slices of stale bread 1

1

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

medium

onion, finely

oil

chopped

Garlic to taste Flat-leaf parsley to taste

plum tomatoes, peeled and cut in half 3

Pinch

chili

pepper flakes

(optional)

Salt

96

2 Heat a

Place a slice of stale bread in each bowl.

cent.

saucepan and saute the onion

Chop

together the garlic and parsley and add to

the onion with a color,

little

until translu-

little salt.

When

add the tomatoes and a

When

the mixture liquid.

acquasale directly hot. If desired,

it

a

little chili

boiling water to keep

begins to

on the bread

add

the onion has changed

little

in the

pepper.

boil,

pour the

bowls and serve

ACQUASALE

RICOTTA AND EGG SOUP

CU LU PULIESCE

This soup

BASILICATA

Simmer Ha.

1

ricotta salata

bunch aromatic herbs

1

and herbs

in water to cover for 15

minutes.

Add the eggs and cook a few minutes.

this liquid

over slices of bread arranged in bowls; season

with olive

oil.

(such as basil, mint, rosemary, sage, and celery*leaves)

typical of Avigliano.

is

the ricotta

Pour

4 large eggs Slices of bread, toasted Extra-virgin olive

oil

j

ANOLINI PARMIGIANI

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

I

ANOLINI WITH BEEF FILLING This recipe

is

typical of

Heat the butter For the 14 lb. (1 stick) 1

plus 3 tbsp. butter

celery stalk, finely

chopped

carrot, finely

chopped

1

1

filling:

tbsp. finely

chopped chives

3 oz. lean beef roast

(bottom round or chuck)

A few tbsp. red wine 1

tbsp.

tomato puree 2 cloves

1

%cups breadcrumbs

2 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 5 large eggs

Pinch grated nutmeg, optional

Beef or capon broth

carrot,

6

K2 cups

all-purpose flour,

plus

more as needed 5 large eggs

FQR PERSONS

Parma.

an earthenware pot. Saute the

chives;

celery,

add the beef and cover with warm

Cover the pot with several sheets of wax paper

water.

and on the sheets put a soup

plate in

which red wine

should be poured, in accordance with tradition.

Re-

turn the pot to the heat and cook very slowly for about

Halfway through

12 hours.

puree and cloves.

meat

will

When

it

this

period add the tomato

has finished cooking, the

have become a thick sauce. Remove any re-

maining vegetables and chop them. Put the breadcrumbs

and Parmigiano-Reggiano

in a bowl;

pour

in the

sauce and the vegetables, eggs, and nutmeg. to 1

combine and

The

night.

meat

Work well

set aside in the refrigerator to rest for

next day, use the flour and eggs to pre-

pare a pasta dough as in the recipe on page 10. Let the

dough For the pasta:

and

in

6

well

rest,

and

page 212). about

Yz

covered with a cloth, for 30 minutes. Knead

roll

out to the thinnest possible sheet (see note,

Cut the dough

tablespoon of

into small circles

filling

on each

and press down along the edges well so as to keep the anolini ing. float.

Cook the

to

and place

circle; fold in

two

make them adhere

from opening during cook-

anolini in beef or

capon broth

until they

Serve in the broth.

97

ANOLINI PIACENTINI

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

PIACENZA- STYLE ANOLINI Cook these

made

anolini in broth

with beef, hen or capon,

and pork, being careful to cook the three meats separately For the

filling:

4 tbsp. butter 1

medium

onion, finely

chopped

carrot, finely

chopped

celery stalk, finely

chopped

1

1

9 oz. beef chuck roast 2 garlic cloves Zi

% cup

later,

measuring the quanti-

with a delicate flavor. This

is

the classic “broth

preparation typical of Piacenza.

Heat the butter carrot,

pan and

in a saute

and celery

until fragrant.

in

it

Make

a

cook the onion, slit

add

% cups grated

to the pan, seasoning with salt

it

evaporate.

Add

broth to cover and

For the pasta: 3 cups all-purpose flour,

more as needed 6 large eggs Salt

and pepper

and

let it

simmer, par-

let this

covered, over low heat for at least 2 hours.

tially

move from

the heat, cool to

refrigerate overnight; the next

Re-

room temperature, and day return

it

low heat

to

Chop up

for 3 hours; repeat this for a third day. Pinch grated nutmeg

When

and pepper.

preferably from Piacenza

plus

in either side

of the beef, inserting a clove of garlic into each one, and

the beef has browned, pour in the red wine

Parmigiano-Reggiano,

tasty,

three,” a

in

2 cups broth

breadcrumbs

and

ties to obtain a flavorful but not fatty broth, clear

cup red wine

2 large eggs 1

and combine their broths only

the

stew thus obtained; saute the breadcrumbs in the sauce

remaining in the pot.

Remove

it

from the

heat, then re-

turn the chopped stew to the pot along with the eggs, cheese,

and nutmeg. Work

Use

neous mixture.

dough

pasta

this well to

the flour

as in recipe

on page

form a homoge-

and eggs 10.

to prepare a

Let the dough

rest,

covered with a cloth for 30 minutes. Roll the dough out to

form

a thin sheet (see note,

balls

of the stuffing

each

ball

about

down one

page 212).

Align small

side of this sheet,

making

inch in diameter and spacing them by

V2

about 2 to 2V2 inches. Fold the pasta over onto

itself to

cover the balls of stuffing. Press the edges to seal and cut

them out to form squares or half-moons. lini in

BAGNONE LAZIO

broth until

al

BATHED BREAD This dish

is

typical of Vallerano.

In a pot, preferably earthenware, 6 sun-dried tomatoes 2 garlic cloves V/2 lbs.

dried cod, soaked the

Cook the ano-

dente. Serve in the cooking liquid.

tomatoes with the cover.

Cook

for

garlic, 1

blend, adding water

combine the sun-dried

cod, and fennel.

Add

water to

hour over low heat so the if

flavors

necessary to maintain the quan-

night before and cut into pieces

CONTINUED

98

tity

of broth (needed to pour over the bread)

.

Place

one

2 bunches dried wild fennel

4 slices stale bread,

Extra-virgin olive

oil,

slice

before serving drizzle with olive

Black pepper

2 lbs. fresh anchovies

and

2 garlic cloves

1

bunch 1

flat-leaf parsley,

chopped

lb.

Zi

(if

possible in seawater)

pan and add

parsley;

Add

and

olive oil

of the garlic cloves, the onion,

add the tomatoes and cook for

and pepper

salt

1

tails,

Heat the

.

to taste.

Add

1

5 minutes.

the wine, 2 table-

spoons water, and the anchovies. Cook for another 15

Rub

minutes.

fresh plum tomatoes,

peeled, seeded, and

them

in a saute

olive oil

chopped

and

and add a few grind-

Clean the anchovies, cutting off the heads and rinse

onion, finely

oil

of bread.

liquid,

ANCHOVY SOUP

LIGURIA

medium

slice

ings of black pepper.

BAGNUN D’ANCIO

1

pour some over each

Give the bread 10 minutes to soak up the

for serving

% cup

of bread in each individual serving bowl. When

the soup has cooked,

inch thick, or

Vi

more as needed

the crackers (or slices of toasted bread)

with the other garlic clove and put them in soup bowls.

chopped

Pour over the soup and serve

cup dry white wine

after a

few minutes.

12 hardtack crackers (or toasted bread)

and pepper

Salt

Bl

ETA

BRODO

IN

CALABRIA

1

CHARD Remove chop

3

A

lb.

(about 12

oz.

Swiss chard 1

Chicken broth

it,

IN

BROTH

the outer leaves

and cook

0 minutes.

it

When Add

gentle simmer.

from the Swiss chard,

rinse

in broth to cover until tender, it

it,

about

has cooked, reduce the heat to a

the eggs,

which should coagulate

per person)

without breaking and without becoming poached.

Pour

4 large eggs

the chard with the broth Ricotta salata,

with a

BORDATINO

TOSCANA

1

medium

into bowls

and top

cup

carrot,

olive oil

chopped

little

ricotta salata.

POLENTA WITH BLACK KALE This dish, typical of both Pisa and Livorno, uses cavolo nero,

which Vi

and eggs

crumbled

is

also called lacinato kale, Tuscan kale, and black kale.

Heat the

olive oil in a saute

ery, onion, garlic cloves,

and

pan and add the parsley.

carrot, cel-

Cook until soft. Add

CONTINUED

99

1

1

the tomato puree diluted with a

celery stalk, chopped

medium

chopped

onion,

2 garlic cloves, chopped 3 tbsp.

chopped 1

flat-leaf

tbsp.

Bring the broth to a boil and add to

parsley

tables.

tomato puree

Add the black kale Add salt to taste.

leaves

At

minutes.

6 cups broth from cooking beans, mixed with a few beans run through a vegetable mill and some (only a few) whole beans 2 cups roughly

warm

little

water and

then pass the entire rpixtqre through a vegetable

meal, pouring

mill.

blended vege-

and cook

this point,

for about 15

add the corn-

in a steady drizzle while constantly stir-

it

wooden spoon; cook

ring with a

it^the

for about

Serve in individual bowls, pouring a

30 minutes.

little

olive oil

over each.

chopped

black kale leaves 1

% cups cornmeal Salt

WINTER VEGETABLE SOUP

BRIZA

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

This soup, typical of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, ful,

Zi 1

lb.

winter squash (about 2

lbs.)

Peel the squash, removing

potatoes, peeled and chopped

ments. Cut

% cup fresh shelled beans 1

1

Vi

medium 1

bay leaf

onion,

chopped

celery stalk,

chopped

its

skin, seeds,

and soak them

in slices

it

and inner

fila-

Mean-

well.

cook the potatoes

cover;

when cooked pass them through a vegetable mill warm spot. In a saucepan simmer the

by

in lightly salted boiling water to

set aside in a

beans, carrot, bay

Salt

flavor-

while,

and

4 cups buttermilk

and

in lightly salted

water for about 2 hours, then drain very

chopped

carrot,

is light

with a slightly sour taste.

1

leaf,

onion, and celery in water to cover

inch until almost tender, about lVi hours.

the buttermilk in a large pan.

and beans with

move

their

the bay leaf.

Add

Heat

the squash, potatoes,

cooking water, being careful to re-

At

this

point raise the heat and wait

for the mixture to boil, stirring often. Immediately re-

duce the heat Adjust for

to

low and cook for about

and

salt

let

cool to almost

1

5 minutes.

room temperature

before serving.

BRODETTO ALL’ANCONETANA

MARCHE

i

I

FISH SOUP ANCONA-STYLE How many

fish

should go into a brodetto? What

number, arrived ence?

In

at

is

the magic

through long experimentation and experi-

Ancona, they say thirteen, the same number as the

diners at the Last Supper. And each fish should perform a precise role

100

in

contributing to the final

harmony

of a

soup

Ya 1

medium

1

cup

olive oil

1

parsley

tomato puree

5 lbs. mixed seafood: cuttlefish,

octopus, prawns, shrimp, mussels,

fish? Best of

just arrived in the

Heat the

fish, mullet,

mackerel,

John Dory, goby, turbot, monkfish, squid Peasant-style bread, toasted

and rubbed with garlic

important occasions.

if

you

are those the fisherman brings

all

home

market today and are absolutely fresh.

olive oil over

low heat

in a large

enameled

Add the garlic and onion and cook golden. Add the vinegar and cook until it

earthenware pot. slowly until

evaporates, at which point add the parsley and tomato

clams, cod, red snapped, skate,

scorpion

all

chopped

flat-leaf

Yi lbs.

favorite dish for

after his long labors at sea; then there are those that have

onion, finely

chopped

become the

Which

2 tbsp. white wine vinegar 2 tbsp.

that has

chopped

garlic clove,

Add

puree.

the fish in this order: cuttlefish, squid,

octopus, prawns, shrimp, mussels, and clams, larger

and so on

to the

utes, then let

most

fish,

Cook for about 30 min-

delicate.

Place one slice of bread in each indi-

sit.

like

vidual serving bowl. Bring the pot of soup to the table.

Spoon

the soup over the bread.

FISH SOUP BRODETTO

MARANO

Dl

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

MARANO-STYLE It

is difficult

in this

varieties for the fish

dish with a single type, such

olive oil

as go (goby; Gobius venetisrum), a plentiful fish and very

minced

vorful.

garlic clove, finely

minced

cup extra-virgin

medium 1

numbers or

Some prepare this

onion, finely

Ya 1

to give precise

recipe.

About 4 cdt

in

cleaned and

lbs. fish,

pieces but not filleted

2 tbsp. white wine vinegar Ya

carrot,

chopped

celery stalk,

chopped

1

1

2 ripe

cup white wine

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

Others add

cuttlefish, or

Heat the

eel,

passerine

a few minutes

evaporate.

Add the per.

fla-

flounder), gray mullet,

prawns.

olive oil in a

pot (preferably earthenware) over

low heat; add the onion and

it

(little

add the

Add

fish,

garlic

the wine

at

slowly. After

and enough water

carrot, celery, tomatoes,

Simmer

and cook

then add the vinegar and

bay

leaf, salt,

let

to cover.

and pep-

low heat for about 2 hours, then pass

the soup through a food mill.

Serve hot, accompanied

by crusts of stale bread. 1

bay leaf

Crusts of stale bread, toasted

and

fried in a

little

Salt

olive oil

and pepper

101

BRODETTO

Dl PESCE ALLA FANESE

MARCHE 4

lbs.

mixed

fish (cuttlefish or squid,

shrimp or prawns, tub gurnard, fish, mackerel or dog fish,

scorpion

sole or turbot, red snapper or John Dory, monkfish, sea bream,

skate or ray,

/ medium

1

cup

onion, finely

etc.)

olive oil

chopped

FISH SOUP

FANO-STYLE The characteristics of a genuine brodetto consumed north of Ancona,

like this

debate.

the basic elements used (olive

In truth,

1

tsp.

oil,

garlic,

chili pepper, tomatoes or tomato puree) come from the area and are themselves distinc-

tive.

There

is

then the great variety of fish used, for which

reason one can readily affirm that no two brodetti could ever be identical. Those

who have had

the opportunity to accom-

pany fishermen from Fano and to taste the brodetto they prewill

note that even

tomato puree of fishermen

A

Fano,

onion, vinegar, wine, pepper or

pare on their boats 3

in

one have long been the subject of

cup white wine vinegar tion. (or white wine)

among the same group

one encounters different methods of prepara-

The brodetti made on boats are sometimes based on one

type offish, such as shrimp, prawns, spider crabs, or cuttleSalt

and pepper fish,

and these are

a mixture,

slightly sweet; or the

depending on what

is

brodetto

made from

is

being fished that day. Because

of the freshness of the fish, the results are always notable.

Wash and

Heat the

carefully clean the fish.

pan and cook the onion

a saute

tomato puree,

salt

olive oil in

Add

until golden.

and pepper, vinegar, and

water (or use equal measures of wine and water) for several minutes to blend the ingredients. fish,

Boil

.

Add

the

beginning with the largest or those that require the

longest cooking (cuttlefish, tub gurnard).

have finished adding complete.

It is

fish,

essential to

ing times of the

fish, for

simmer

fish will

When you cooking

is

since they are of different sizes

time requires putting them in

some

until the

pay close attention to the cook-

and composition, cooking them

wise

the

cup of

1

for the right

amount of

at different times, other-

not cook long enough and others

will

be overcooked.

Dl

BRODETTO PORTO RECAN ATI

MARCHE

FISH SOUP

FROM

PORTO RECANATI Heat the

olive oil in a saute pan;

golden; add the cuttlefish cut in 2tbsp. olive 1

medium

onion, finely

oil

minced

8 oz. cuttlefish

4 cups fish broth (or water) Vs oz.

saffron

(if

possible wild)

CONTINUED

102

and pepper saffron,

cook the onion

little

pieces.

to taste, cover with broth or water

and continue cooking.

cooked, adjust for

salt

When

and pepper.

sorted fish in flour and place

them

until

Add

salt

and the

the cutdefish

Dredge the

is

as-

in a large pot, begin-

ning with the cooked cuttlefish (reserving their cooking liquid)

and the

larger or firmer fish

and moving on

to

Mi

lbs.

assorted fish (mullet, sole,

cod, monkfish, angler, scorpion fish,

John Dory, prawns,

etc.)

cup dry white wine

BRODETTO

the

will

ending with the sole and mul-

delicate, thus

much

ROMBO

1

avoiding the use of spoons,

fish (thus

break up the

fish)

Serve hot over

.

This

2 lbs. turbot tbsp. olive

oil oil

ting aside the heads; rinse

pan heat the until

4 whole garlic cloves 'A

salt

it

E

SARDONCINI CAVOLFIORE

MARCHE

of

oils,

in slices, set-

In a heavy

fish.

then saute the garlic

Remove the garlic and put

in the

pan and cook

for 5 to 8

minutes, then add a pinch of salt and pepper and sprinkle

and pepper

When

with the vinegar.

for about

Dl

and sunflower

and heads

and cut

gills,

and dry the

becomes dark brown.

cover with

BRODETTO

olive

the fish slices

cup white wine vinegar Coarse

slices

often served with soft white polenta.

is

Clean the turbot, removing the 1

over high

5 minutes, occasionally shaking

TURBOT GRADO-STYLE

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

cup sunflower

Cook

water as needed.

toasted bread.

ALLA GRADESE

Zi

and add the white

cuttlefish liquid,

more than

pan to move the

which

and pepper

Dl

Cover with the

heat for no

Slices of toasted bread Salt

more

let.

wine and as

All-purpose flour for dredging the fish Zi

those

I

I

the vinegar has evaporated,

warm water, turn up

20 minutes.

the heat to high, and boil

Taste for

salt

and

serve.

ANCHOVY AND CAULIFLOWER STEW This

is

an ancient recipe from the coast of Pesaro.

Carefully clean the sardoncini, split them open, bone them, 1

lb.

sardoncini (anchovies) 1

head cauliflower

% cup olive 1

medium 1

onion, cut

cup dry white wine

plum tomatoes

2

tbsp.

oil

thin slices

shallot, cut in thin slices Zi

1

in

chopped

flat-leaf

Zi tsp.

and

set

them

cook the onion and

come

transparent,

cauliflower,

shallot.

cauliflower in florets,

dente in lighdy salted boilolive oil in a saute

When the

add the wine and

the tomato, parsley,

10 minutes.

Cut the

until al

Heat the

ing water to cover.

parsley

thyme leaves

aside to dry.

wash them, and cook

and thyme

let it

leaves,

Cover the bottom of

pan and

onion begins to beevaporate; add

and cook

for about

a large pot with the

add the anchovies, and pour

in the sauce;

cook over low heat for about 30 minutes. Serve

hot.

and pepper or chili pepper flakes

Salt

103

FISH

STEW

TERMOLI- STYLE

BRODETTO TERMOLESE MOLISE

Clean the

fish carefully

Heat the 1

Zi lbs.

fresh fish (not anchovies

and cut any

olive oil in a

and add the

garlic, chili

large ones in pieces.

pot (preferably earthenware)

pepper, green pepper, parsley,

or sardines): stargazer, frascine,

and tomatoes. Cook

cod, mullet, prawns, small cuttlefish 1

1

Vi 'A

tbsp. olive

garlic clove,

hot dried

all

oil

utes.

chopped

chili

the

water to cover, and

fish,

Add

the mussels

5 minutes.

pepper

salt

Add

has reduced.

until the sauce

and cook

and clams and

for

1

5

min-

cook another

let

Serve in the same pot.

fresh green pepper, chopped

2 tbsp.

chopped 3

A

flat-leaf

parsley

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped lb.

2 lbs. mussels, scrubbed

and beards removed 4

lbs.

clams, cleaned Salt

BRODO ABBRUSTOLITO FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

1

TOASTED BROTH Cook the

butter in a pot over

6

FOR persons

medium-low heat until

it is

nut brown in color, then whisk in the flour and cumin. 2 tbsp. butter 2 tbsp. all-purpose flour Zi tsp.

ground cumin

2 large eggs, beaten 1

sprig sweet

marjoram

Slices of bread, toasted

Gradually whisk

in

4 cups water, carefully avoiding the

formation of lumps, and simmer slowly for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, mix the eggs with the

marjoram and pour

salt,

pepper, and

into the broth, stirring constantly.

Place slices of bread in the bottoms of bowls, sprinkle

with cheese, and pour in the broth.

Grated aged Montasio cheese Salt

and pepper

BRODO BRUCIATO FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

"BURNED BROTH” This dish

is

typical of Carnia,

where

it

is

sometimes made

with the addition of boiled potatoes. 2 tbsp. butter

the flour.

cups milk

and cook

1

104

Slowly melt the butter in a pot over low heat, mixing in

2 tbsp. all-purpose flour Zi

Gradually whisk in the milk until smooth, until the

raw

taste of the flour

is

gone.

BRODO BRUCIATO COI FUNGHI

TRENTINO

MUSHROOM SOUP Melt the butter flour,

4tbsp. butter 1

1

cups all-purpose flour

14

2tbsp. olive Zi

Va lb.

medium

oil

onion, finely cflopped

fresh porcini

mushrooms,

sliced

2tbsp. white wine 1

tbsp.

chopped

parsley

flat-leaf

Broth,

if

Salt

BRODO

necessary

and pepper

Dl

CARDI

MOLISE

6

medium

in a pot over

FOR PERSONS

heat and

Whisk

mixture takes on a golden color.

Meanwhile,

pan and add the onion, cooking

oil in a

until translucent.

until the

4 cups cold

in

water to obtain a somewhat thick broth. heat the olive

the

stir in

mixing well with a wooden spoon. Cook

Add

the

mushrooms;

let

them cook

about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with the wine and add pepper, and the parsley.

for

salt,

mushrooms

Pass half of the

through a food mill and blend them and the other mush-

rooms

into the broth,

mixing

minutes, adding broth

if

Cook

well.

slowly for 30

necessary.

CARDOON AND MEATBALL SOUP

6

FOR PERSONS

Place the turkey wing in a large pot and cover with 8 cups

of water. Bring to a boil over high heat, skim the surface, 1

turkey wing 1

Juice of Va

cardoon 1

lemon

pound ground 8 large

1

veal

eggs

cup grated pecorino Extra-virgin olive

Giblets

from 1

Za

1

reduce the heat, and simmer for while,

tbsp. butter

cup white wine

6 slices stale bread

it

lemon

from browning) In a bowl

this

and

boil in salted

salt.

veal,

of the eggs,

1

Work

and pat

dry.

tablespoon

1

together well, then gently

mixture into tiny meatballs (the

chickpeas). Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive

and brown the meatballs on

areas.

water acidu-

keep the cardoon pieces

juice (to

combine the

Mean-

hour.

1

from the cardoon and

until tender. Drain, let cool,

of the pecorino, and

form

at least

ribs

from the more tender

fibers

into small pieces

lated with the

oil

turkey

away the stringy

strip

Cut

remove the hard outer

all

size of fat oil in

a

pan

sides until they are fully

Salt

Dice the turkey

cooked. the olive

oil

giblets until orate.

card the wing.

Va

Heat

1

tablespoon of

pan and cook the

in another

browned. Add the white wine and

Remove

the broth.

giblets.

and the butter

the turkey

wing from

its

let it

evap-

broth and dis-

Add the cardoon and the giblet mixture to

Simmer together for about

inch of olive

oil in

a high-sided

pan

1

5 minutes.

until hot.

Heat

Beat one

of the eggs in a deep plate. Dip the bread into the beaten egg, then fry the bread, turning, until golden

on

all

sides.

In another bowl beat the remaining 6 eggs with the

remaining pecorino. Fold the meatballs, the fried bread,

and the egg mixture

into the

soup and

let

it

cook 3 or

4 minutes before serving.

105

BRODO

D FAGIOLI I

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

BEAN SOUP This recipe istypical of Modena.

Boil the beans in lightly salted water to cover, cooking Vz

1

if

cups dried beans,

possible of the saluggia variety (called "old lady’s teeth” in

the Modenese dialect)

Pistadein (see page 169)

BRODO Dl PESCE CON VERDURE MOLISE

them

Add

about 2 hours.

until tender,

and cook

until the pasta

is al

the pistadein

Serve hot in soup

dente.

bowls. This dish can be also eaten cold, which concentrates its

body and

FISH

AND

its

flavor.

VEGETABLE SOUP Put

all

e

FOR persons

the ingredients except the Swiss chard (or chic-

ory) in a pot with 8 cups of water and cook until the 2

4

prawns

medium shrimp

head of a monkfish

1

1

scorpion fish

liquid

broth.

is

reduced by

half.

Remove the fish and filter the

Meanwhile, boil the chard in water to cover until

tender, about 10 minutes. fish broth,

When

cooked, blend with the

cooking them together for 5 minutes.

plum tomatoes, peeled and crushed

1

lb.

1

1

bunch

garlic clove

flat-leaf

parsley

1

small piece sweet green pepper

1

hot dried

Vz

2

lbs.

cup extra-virgin chili

olive

oil

pepper (optional)

Swiss chard (or chicory) Salt

BROTADFASEUI E

CASTAGNI

PIEMONTE

BEAN AND CHESTNUT SOUP This simple

soup was brought to the

shepherds moving their 1

1

Vz

Vz

cups dried beans

cups dried chestnuts 34

cup

olive oil

Salt

area by Valesian

In separate containers, soak the beans and chestnuts in lightly salted

water overnight.

combine the two with cook

until tender,

hot in bowls.

106

Vercelli

flocks.

The

their water

next day, in a pot

and the

about 2 hours. Add a

olive oil

little salt.

and

Serve

BEAN AND RICE SOUP

BRUVOIRA

PIEMONTE

This bean soup If the

V/z cups beans 1

Zz

cups

1

%

I

2

fresh white tripe

medium Zz

onions, peeled

cup loosely packed

flat-leaf

Add

hours. for

the rice, salt as needed, and the milk

30 minutes.

This

is

FOR PERSONS

in a pot,

and add water

Clean the tripe again, then cut

cold water.

about 3 inches long.

to cover.

remove and cool

in

in slices

Finely chop together the onions,

and celery and put

in a

pot with

garlic clove Zz

cup lard

celery stalk

8 cups flavorful broth Z*

it

Boil several minutes, stirring, then

parsley, garlic, lard,

1

6

a dish typical of Biella.

the tripe, place

parsley leaves 1

Serve hot.

TRIPE SOUP Wash

lbs.

must

in lightly salted water with-

out bringing them to a boil until nearly cooked, about

and cook

2

Cook the beans

be shelled.

Salt

PIEMONTE

typical of Biella.

to soften; if they are of the faseu del papa type, they

rice

4 cups milk

BUSECCA

is

beans are dried, they must be soaked overnight

cup mixed herbs

(such as sage and thyme)

the tripe.

Cook

add the broth.

over high heat for a few minutes, then

Cover and slowly cook for 2 hours, add-

ing the herbs toward the end.

Skim

off any fat

and

serve with bread. Sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano at

the table.

Slices of toasted bread

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

LOCAL TRADITION

CALLARIEDDE This

is

a

soup made of chicory or fennel broth with

beaten eggs, and lamb.

It

would

slices of salame, mozzarella,

typically be served on Easter

Monday

in

Gravina,

in

the area of Puglia.

107

)

CAPPE LONGHE A LA CAPUZZINA

VENETO

RAZOR CLAMS BROTH

IN

Make

and parsley) by

a guazzetto (oil infused with garlic

slowly simmering the garlic and parsley in the olive

1% cups

olive oil

2 garlic cloves 2 tbsp. flat-leaf parsley 3

lbs.

razor clams, cleaned 4 cups beef broth

Hunks

of bread, sauteed in a

in a large

on

pan over very low heat.

color, raise the heat to

When

medium and add

remove the

the clams open,

broth. Bring to a simmer.

and pour the soup

oil

When the garlic takes shells

the clams.

and add the

Arrange the bread

in

bowls

over.

little oil

CAPPELLETTI BRODO

IN

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

This

CAPPELLETTI

IN

BROTH is

a dish typical of Forli

and Reggio

Emilia. At Imola

it

is

customary to add one oversized cappelletto (known as a caFor the

filling:

4 tbsp. butter Zi lb.

4

oz.

pork

loin

boneless chicken breast

7 oz. prosciutto crudo, 1

minced

% cups grated

New Year’s meal; it is destined to who is served it. The version given here is the classic stuffing, but there are many variations. There are those who use mortadella in place of prosciutto or roast veal instead of pork; some use turkey breast in addition to the pork, and some use chicken fat (even better, capon fat) in place of butter; and those, finally, who add 'A pound calf’s plitaz to the bowl at the

bring good luck to the diner

Parmigiano-Reggiano brains. At Novellara (Reggio Emilia) the filling 1

large egg

is

prepared

using only braised beef with cloves and chopped onion.

Pinch grated nutmeg

Heat the butter in a pan over low heat until melted. Finely Salt

chop the pork and chicken and add them For the dough:

Cook for about

more as needed 4 large eggs 1

1

tbsp. olive

oil

cup capon broth (see page 226)

per person, brought to a simmer Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

to the pan.

add the prosciutto crudo.

Leave the pan on the heat for a few minutes, then trans-

3 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

5 minutes, then

1

fer

it

to a

bowl and

let it cool.

Work

the Parmigiano-

Reggiano and egg into the mixture and knead

to obtain a

and the nutmeg.

Use the

soft consistency, flour, eggs,

and

adding

salt

olive oil to

page 10, adding the

oil

prepare a pasta dough as on

with the eggs. Let

kitchen towel for about 30 minutes.

it

rest

under a

Roll out a sheet of

pasta about Yu inch thick (see page 212) and cut

it

in

horizontal and then vertical strips to obtain squares

1

to

1

V2 inches on

a side.

Put a small amount of the

the center of each square and fold over to

making sure the edges adhere angle, holding

it

well.

form

filling at

a triangle,

Pick up each

tri-

by the ends between the thumb and

forefinger of each hand, then twist the triangle around

the tip of your

left

index finger until the two ends overlap.

Press the ends together to join

108

them well, forming a “little

.

cap”

Set the cappelletti aside to rest and

{cappelletto)

harden for several hours, then cook

with Parmigiano-Reggiano

CAPRIATA

I

lb. in

total of a

at the table.

BEAN AND GRAIN MUSH Drain and rinse them and put them

salted water. 1

capon

The evening before, soak the grain and legumes in lightly

BASILICATA About

in boiling

Serve with broth and sprinkle

broth for 10 minutes.

mixture

earthenware pot.

Add enough

in

an

water to cover them by a

of grain, dried beans, lentils, flat

few inches, season with

peas, dried peas

Extra-virgin olive

2 hours over

oil

soft,

Salt

medium

salt,

almost a puree.

summer

cold in the

and cook, covered, for about

heat, or until the beans are very

Serve

warm

in the winter

with olive

after drizzling

and

oil.

LOCAL TRADITION

CANNELICCHJE

E

FAFE

According to various period chroniclers, the nourishing soup

known as cannelicchje e

combined with raw or boiled led by Ettore

Fieramosca

CARABACCIA

TOSCANA

I

in

dried fava

4tbsp. olive

1

oil

carrot,

chopped

celery stalk,

chopped

CONTINUED

to Puglia

to a

and

mush and

thirteen Italian soldiers

to

the 1503 battle known as the "Challenge of Barletta.”

SWEET ONION SOUP Heat the

olive oil in a large

rot, celery,

1

common

— made from beans reduced razor clams — was served the

fafe

and

basil

6

earthenware pot.

and cook

FOR PERSONS

Add the carAdd the

for 5 minutes.

onions and one third of the broth and cook over low heat for at least

evaporated.

1

hour, by which time

all

the liquid will have

Raise the heat and add the wine.

the wine has evaporated, add the legumes. 1

When

After about

minute, add the rest of the broth and lower the heat;

109

2

1

large sprig of basil,

roughly chopped 2

lbs.

medium

onions, finely chopped

4 cups broth

3tbsp. white wine

% cup mixed fresh

simmer until the legumes

Add salt and pepper

are tender.

Before serving sprinkle the soup with cheese

to taste.

and mix

in well. Place a slice of

and pour over the soup. Let

it

bread in each bowl

few minutes, then

rest a

serve hot.

legumes

(peas, beans, etc.)

3 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

or pecorino 6 slices toasted bread Salt

CARDONI

IN

and pepper

BRODO

1

CAMPANIA 2 large cardoons

Juice of 7

1

lemon

cups beef or chicken broth

2 whole large eggs and 2 yolks 4 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano,

plus

more

for serving

Salt

and pepper

CARDOONS This preparation

is

IN

BROTH

1

e

FOR persons

typical of Avellino.

Remove the outer ribs and fibers from the cardoons, then cut the inner ribs into 4-inch-long strips. To keep them from discoloring, immerse them immediately acidulated with

doons

lemon

Cook

juice.

in water

the strips of car-

in lightly salted boiling water for 10 minutes, re-

move, and thoroughly

drain.

Heat the broth

add the cardoons, reduce the heat

to low,

to boiling,

and cook

for

another 10 minutes. Beat together the eggs and yolks,

Parmigiano-Reggiano,

salt,

and pepper;

at the

moment

of serving the dish add the egg mixture to the cardoons in their broth, stirring rapidly to slightly.

CARDONI

IN

BRODO

ABRUZZO

make

the eggs congeal

Serve more Parmigiano-Reggiano

CARDOONS

IN

BROTH

Clean the cardoons, cut them

at the table.

2

in cubes,

and put them

cold water acidulated with the lemon juice. 1

Vi lbs.

cardoons

Juice of 6 cups broth (best

if

1

lemon

made from

cardoon cubes

IV2 hours.

in lightly salted water to cover for

Remove

the cubes

in

Boil the

about

and drain them. Bring

the broth to a boil and add the cardoons.

Cook for

5

min-

free-range chicken or beef)

utes.

Beat the eggs with 3 tablespoons pecorino and pour

3 large eggs, beaten it

into the broth, stirring briskly;

simmer

for a

few min-

Grated pecorino

utes, then serve hot with the addition of pecorino 1

recipe cheese and egg fritters (see page 50)

110

cheese and egg

fritters.

and

CAVATELLI WITH ARUGULA AND POTATOES

CAVATELLI,

RUGHETTA

E

PATATE

PUGLIA 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

garlic clove, sliced Zz

1

1

lb.

lb.

This dish

cup

until fragrant;

in a

lb.

pot with

chopped

boil,

flat-leaf

I

the potatoes

and

it

cavatelli.

When

the

and put everything back

in

PEASANT SOUP This

humble repast

of peasants

is

good enough to please

well.

Roughly chop the onions and tomatoes and put them

ripe

in a

parsley

2 tbsp. olive

Remove

add the

cooked, drain

connoisseurs as

2 tbsp.

salt

boil the potatoes

the pot, including the tomato mixture. Serve hot.

PUGLIA 2

garlic,

tomatoes, and

water to cover. When they are

lightly salted

water returns to a

medium onions

plum tomatoes, not overly

basil,

Meanwhile,

heat.

cavatelli

and pepper

Cl ALDA

low heat, add the

arugula from the pot. Heat the water and as soon as the

cavatelli is

2

add the

almost done add the arugula.

washed and drained 1

and cook

and cook over low

potatoes, peeled and cubed

Salt

typical of Foggia.

olive oil in a pot over

basil«leaves

plum tomatoes, peeled

2 lbs. arugula,

is

Heat the oil

pot with the parsley,

salt,

and

olive oil;

add water

cover and boil for 10 minutes to create a broth.

oil

the bread

4 slices stale bread

ano.

and place

to

Slice

in bowls, sprinkling with the oreg-

Pour the broth over and

serve.

4 tbsp. chopped oregano Salt

LOCAL TRADITION

CROSTINI ALLA MILZA PER MINESTRA In

this recipe for spleen crostini, typical of Alto Adige, a veal spleen

a

meat

mallet, halved,

and pepper. Three

is

pounded with

and the membrane removed before being seasoned with

slices of stale, crustless

stacked with the spleen. The stacked bread and veal spleen into "striped croutons,”

which are sauteed

salt

bread are then spread with butter and

until just

is

browned

then sliced and cubed in

butter and served

in

beef broth with chives.

ill

Cl AN F OTTA

FAICCH AN A I

CAMPANIA

VEGETABLE STEW Heat 2 tablespoons

olive oil

3 zucchini, cubed

medium

2

potatoes,

peeled and cubed

the garlic

seeded and cubed

tossed with salt and allowed to drain of

At

this

this

pan with the parsley, salt,

and cook

cook for 5 min-

let

garlic

and onion; add the

basil,

and pepper and cook, covered,

When

minutes.

oil

mixture takes on a

point transfer the zucchini mixture to the

the cooking

juices

off the cover, turn

up

evaporates. Serve at

medium

When

and onion.

garlic clove, thinly sliced

1

1

its

until golden.

golden color, add the tomatoes and

sweet peppers,

3 Zi cups cubed eggplant,

the zucchini,

In a saucepan, heat the remaining olive

utes. 2 large

Add

and cook

olive oil in a pan.

potatoes, peppers, and eggplant cup extra-virgin

/a

the heat,

oregano,

for about

30

almost completed take

is

and cook

until the liquid

room temperature.

onion, thinly sliced

medium plum tomatoes,

3

peeled and seeded 1

tbsp.

1

1

tbsp.

tbsp.

chopped

basil

chopped oregano

chopped

flat-leaf

Salt

parsley

and pepper

CISRA

PIEMONTE

CHICKPEA SOUP This preparation

is

typical of Vercelli.

One variation adds

ossette di suino (pork ribs with meat attached), pork rind,

% cup dried chickpeas 1

1

Va

tsp.

baking soda

tbsp. all-purpose flour

cup extra-virgin

and also raw salame to the bean pot cooking.

chopped onion, carrots,

tbsp. 1

beginning of

to perfection,

Continue to cook at least half an hour with the addition of olive oil

hunks

of toasted bread.

chopped sage leaves

cup dried mushrooms, softened in hot water Vi lb. string

beans

Slices of toasted bread

Soak the chickpeas

in water to cover

overnight, then drain

and

olive

oil.

Mix

salt to taste,

and baking soda

them and combine with

the flour

until the flour adheres to the chick-

peas but without forming lumps.

rooms,

Add

and lukewarm water

the sage, to cover.

for several hours over low heat without stirring,

taining a constant simmer.

beans

in salted boiling

into the

bread.

112

add

celery, Swiss chard, or spinach.

string beans and serve with 1

at the

When the soup has been cooked

soup

mush-

Cook main-

Separately, blanch the string

water until bright green. Stir them

just before serving.

Serve with the toasted

CIUPPIN

LIGURIA

FISH SOUP WITH HERBS This

a soup typical of the Riviera di Levante.

is

Heat the cup extraMrirgin

Zi 1

medium 1

onion, finely

chopped

celery stalk, finely

chppped

carrot, finely

chopped

1

1

1

olive oil

bunch

flat-leaf parsley,

finely

chopped

garlic clove, finely

chopped

Pinch oregano, finely chopped Va

cup aromatic herbs,

finely

chopped

cup white wine

Zi

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 3 ripe

Add

olive oil in a large pan.

all

As soon

and herbs and saute them.

the vegetables

as the

mixture

begins to take on color add the wine and cook until evaporates.

pepper.

Add gins to

Add

Cook

and season with

the tomatoes

it

can cook slowly

apart. If necessary

Remove any bones and

add

a

little

and pepper and bring

until

be-

it

hot water.

pass the mixture through a mill,

Adjust for

collecting the resulting broth in a pot.

dense.

it

and

slowly for 20 minutes, stirring frequently.

the fish to the pot; fall

salt

The

to a boil.

salt

result should

be

Serve hot with toasted bread.

2 lbs. mixed fish (sea bream, white

bream, gurnard, or scorpion

fish),

cleaned and cut into pieces 4 slices bread, toasted Salt

CREMA

D

and pepper

ZUCCHINE

1

PIEMONTE

CREAM OF ZUCCHINI SOUP Put the zucchini and leeks in a saucepan with water and

5 zucchini,

2 leeks, cut

in

cubed

half lengthwise

and

salt.

Cover and cook over low heat

minutes, then pass through a food

Zi

cup

for

25

Add the broth.

mill.

Beat the egg yolk with the milk and add to the soup, then

sliced

Add

add the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

salt

and pepper

4 cups chicken or vegetable broth

and sprinkle with parsley before 1

serving.

large egg yolk 3

A cup

milk

2tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Chopped

flat-leaf

Salt

parsley

and pepper

ERBE DA "BRUO”

VENETO

TURNIP GREENS SOUP Traditionally, the turnip leaves

experienced 2 lbs. turnip

greens

CONTINUED

used

in

Boil the greens for a few minutes

them

in a

this recipe

must have

frost.

pan with cold water

and drain them. Put

to cover, salt,

pork bones,

113

3 pork bones 1

piece of lardo (see page 2) 2

Slices of

cups milk

cooked firm polenta

and

lardo

Add the

and cook over low heat

milk and

let it

0

a slice of polenta in each

soup

for about

1 Vz

FAGIOLI "GRASSI”

PIEMONTE

over. Sbrve hot.

PORK AND BEANS In

the area of Ivrea this dish

prepared using the small

is

dark beans called “del granoturco,” or “ d’lamelia 4 preive (rectangles of pork rind flavored with pepper, nutmeg,

and

finely

Place

bowl and pour the steaming

and pepper

Salt

garlic,

hours.

cook- another 10 minutes. 0-

chopped rosemary

white or borlotto beans are used

nese area.

In

the past

whereas

other towns of the Cava-

was the custom

it

bread oven, putting them

in a

in

to bake the beans

just after the bread. Older

in

tightly tied with string)

residents of the area are 1

zampino

(a pig’s trotter, optional)

5 Vz lb.

pork

loins

the habit of accompanying this

in

dish with Barbera wine.

The

ideal pot for

making

this dish is

one of the typical

dried beans, soaked

for several hours 1

in

cold water

bunch herbs

(rosemary, sage, bay

leaf)

earthenware containers of Castellamonte; the best

known

which

as the tofeja,

is

also the dialect

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Put

this dish.

dients in the pot, cover with water,

all

and bake

name

is

for

the ingrefor several

hours to obtain a somewhat dense soup.

FAGIOLI E PASTELLA

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

BEANS WITH DUMPLINGS This recipe

Combine

%

cup dried beans, 1 soaked overnight and drained

Add

is

typical of the

upper

Friuli.

the beans, potato, herbs,

and pancetta

in a pot.

water to cover and simmer until the beans are ten-

der, then raise the heat slightly to bring the mixture to a 1

potato, peeled

and cut

into pieces

Prepare

boil. 14

cup mixed herbs

(to

salt,

pancetta, minced

oz.

1

lis

mignaculis with the flour, a pinch of

your taste)

% cup all-purpose flour

ter

and

just

(about

Vz

enough water to make a somewhat fluid bat-

When

cup).

in the batter, stirring,

the soup boils, slowly drizzle

and cook

for several minutes more.

Salt

FARRO ALLA LEONESSANA LAZIO

FARRO PORRIDGE Even today one can

still

have the good fortune to taste this

dish at Leonessa, the town for which 1

Vz 1

cups farro

Vz

(spelt)

cups meat broth

CONTINUED

114

Cook

it

is

named.

the farro, or farricello, like polenta (see page 289),

using a good meat broth. special attention that

it

Cook

over low heat, paying

does not stick during the cook-

Sauce of mixed meats (see page 635) Grated pecorino

ing.

Serve in soup bowls with a sauce, prepared sepa-

rately,

of mixed meats or only pork or only sausage.

Serve with pecorino

FARRO CON FIORI E ZUCCHINE

MARCHE

j

I

at the table.

FARRO WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS Heat the

% cup extra-virgin olive

oil

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Vi

medium

onion, finely

chopped

8 zucchini flowers, quartered 2 zucchini, cut Vi

thin

in

rounds

cup white wine

Add

olive oil in a pot.

on a

saute until they take

flowers and zucchini.

evaporate

slightly,

little

the garlic color;

and onion and

add the zucchini

Sprinkle with the wine,

then add the broth and farro.

let it

Cook

over high heat, stirring until the broth has been absorbed

by the twists

Sprinkle with pecorino and add a few

farro.

from

a

pepper

mill.

Put

in

warm

and gar-

plates

nish with mint leaves.

2 cups beef broth 2 cups farro (spelt) Vz

cup grated pecorino Mint leaves

Pepper

FOGLIOLO

LOMBARDIA

TRIPE

Purchase curly tripe that has already been cleaned and slightly

1 Z

tomatoes, placing large hunks of peeled potatoes around the

tomatoes and seasoning them with pepper.

328

olive

oil, salt,

and a

little

8 medium-size

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

plum tomatoes, not overly ripe

off their tops,

8 heaping tbsp. rice

chopped

Flat-leaf parsley,

chopped

and

Zz

parsley, the diluted

and

few tbsp. water

cup extra-virgin

and

a

tomato sauce, a good pinch of

pepper and mix

little

In a

liquid.

rice, garlic, basil,

with their tops on a work surface, sprinkle them with olive oil,

and

lightly salt

pan and

into a baking

and pepper

each two-thirds with

its

full

up

the tomatoes

on

olive oil it,

filling

of the rice mixture, and closing each

Pour the

top.

Pour half the

them.

line

rest of the

tomato sauce around

the tomatoes, sprinkle again with olive

oil

and

salt,

bake for about 40 minutes until the tomatoes are

ened and the

PREAGGE AL SUGO D

I

CARCIOFI

LIGURIA

I

I

% cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed

rice is cooked.

This recipe

is

typical of the Riviera di Levante.

the flour

recipe

and eggs

on page

before rolling 2 large

it

to prepare a pasta

Let the pasta

10.

and cut

it

to

make

maltagliati (see

the artichokes and cut

them

page 285).

Clean

in slices that are not too

Heat the

olive oil in a

pan and cook the

garlic

garlic clove

sprig flat-leaf parsley, chopped

2 cups chicken or vegetable broth

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

as in the

20 minutes

oil

thin. 1

1

dough

rest for

Roll out a sheet (see page 212)

out.

eggs

2 artichokes 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

and soft-

MALTAGLIATI WITH ARTICHOKE SAUCE Use

1

salt,

Line up the tomatoes

well.

olive»oil

Potatoes (optional) Salt

set aside; also clean out the seeds

bowl combine the tomato pulp with the

2 tbsp. tomato sauce diluted in a

the tomatoes then cut

Scoop out the pulp from-the bodies of the tomatoes

2 garlic cloves, crushed Basil,

Wash

making the horizontal cut near the stems.

and pepper

until golden;

add the artichokes,

parsley, salt,

per and cook until lightly browned.

simmer uncovered

until the

Meanwhile cook the water, drain,

and

Add

and pep-

the broth

and

mixture reduces to a sauce.

maltagliati in lightly salted boiling

toss with artichoke mixture. Sprinkle

with Parmigiano-Reggiano and serve hot.

RAGU ALLA PUGLIESE

PUGLIA

PUGLIAN MEAT SAUCE Use this sauce on pasta chiette),

1

medium

onion, finely sliced

2 garlic cloves Extra-virgin olive

oil

CONTINUED

12

(it is

FOR PERSONS

especially well suited to orec-

adding the pieces of meat that did not come apart

during the long cooking and

Put the onion and water and

A cup

l

some good grated

garlic in a

olive

oil.

pecorino.

covered pot with

Cook at very low heat,

%

cup

stirring

frequently to keep the onion from sticking to the pot.

329

/

9 oz. pancetta, minced

cup white wine

Zi

9

oz. beef, in 1- to

9 oz. lamb,

in 1-

to

in

cubes

to

1

2 -inch

cubes

low. Cover'

pepper flakes

Meat of /2 chicken, 1- to 1 34-inch cubes

4 pieces of sausage, in 1-

to

brown add

2 -inch

6 tbsp. tomato paste chili

the onion

raise the heat to

1

4 cups tomato puree

Pinch

When

2 -inch

1

cubes

Grated pecorino

caramelized add the pancetta and

is

medium.

When the pancetta has begun

cup wine and reduce the heat

14

Add

and simmer 30 minutes.

to very

the beef,

lamb, the remaining wine, tomato puree, tomato paste, chili

pepper, and

salt.

Continue cooking very slowly,

al-

ways with the pot covered, for about 3 hours, or until the meats are well cooked and the pork the tomato sauce.

During the

last

has dissolved in

fat

45 minutes of cooking

add the chicken and sausage. Serve over pasta sprinkled with pecorino.

Salt

RAGU ALLA ROMAGNOLA

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

ROMAGNA-STYLE MEAT SAUCE Finely chop together the onion, carrot, and celery. Heat the olive

1

medium onion 1

1

1

oz.

cup

14

carrot

celery stalk

pancetta, minced

olive oil (or

4 tbsp.

oil

(or butter) in a

add the vegetables; cook cetta,

pan over medium heat and

then the beef and chicken

wine, and

when

it

Add

until softened. livers.

to

in the

has evaporated add the tomatoes,

pepper, nutmeg, and broth. Cover and cook

50

the pan-

Pour

at

salt,

low heat

60 minutes.

unsalted butter) 6 oz. lean beef (bottom round) 3 oz. chicken livers, diced

cup wine, red or white

14

%

lb.

ripe peeled

plum tomatoes

Pinch of grated nutmeg 2 tbsp.

meat broth

Salt

and pepper

RAGU D’AGNELLO

UMBRIA

LAMB RAGU This sauce, typical of Foligno,

homemade 1

sprig rosemary

2 garlic cloves, minced 5 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

lb.

lamb, cut

in

oil

pieces

but not minced Vi

Chop

pan over medium heat and saute the

and rosemary

until fragrant.

them brown.

evaporated, add

salt

Pour

and cook over low heat tomato puree

about 40 minutes. Salt

330

and pepper

Add

the

in the wine,

and pepper.

cup dry white wine

1/2 lbs.

traditionally served with

together the rosemary leaves and garlic. Heat the

olive oil in a

let

is

tagliatelle.

garlic

lamb pieces and and when

it

has

Add the tomato puree

until the sauce has thickened,

TUSCAN RAGU

RAGU TOSCANO

TOSCANA

This sauce

is

typical of Pistoia.

Finely chop together the onion, carrot, and celery. Heat

medium onion

1

1

1

3

A

lb.

cup extra-virgin

Va

the olive

carrot

very low heat, add the vegetables, and

Add

the beef and cook a few

minutes, then pour in the red wine; add the tomato paste

oli\fe oil

and

choice lean beef chuck, diced

% cup

oil at

cook for 30 minutes.

celery stalk

1

salt

and pepper

for at least another

red wine

Cover and cook slowly

to taste.

30 minutes, or

until the sauce has

thickened considerably.

tomato paste, diluted in 3 tbsp. water tbsp.

1

Salt

and pepper

1

RAMICCIA

LAZIO

1

FETTUCCINE WITH MEAT SAUCE This dish

Use For the pasta: 3 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

more as needed

4 large eggs, beaten Salt

recipe

Vi 1

cup extra-virgin

medium 1

1

to

1

34 lbs.

olive oil

onion, finely sliced

garlic clove,

beef, Zi

minced

cubed not ground

cup dry white wine

typical of

on page

and cover with will

olive oil in a

and

Norma.

10. Roll

let it

the

salt.

garlic.

meat has browned, pour

evaporate rapidly.

pepper, and

as in the

dough

Meanwhile make the sauce: heat the

pan and saute the onion and

When

dough

out a thin sheet (see page 212)

a clean kitchen towel so that the

dry uniformly.

meat. For the sauce:

is

the flour and eggs to prepare a pasta

Let cook

Add

Add the

in the

wine

the tomatoes, chili

sauce has thickened,

until the

about 40 minutes. Cut the pasta sheet into fettuccine no wider than a quarter inch.

Cook

in lightly salted boil-

ing water and dress with the meat sauce. Sprinkle with

pecorino.

Tomato puree or peeled plum tomatoes Chili

pepper

Grated pecorino Salt

RAVIEU

LIGURIA

MIXED MEAT RAVIOLI There it

For the

filling:

4 heads escarole

CONTINUED

in

is

also the alternative of cooking the pasta and serving

beef or capon broth.

Boil the escarole

and borage

green; drain and set aside.

and saute the pine nuts

in a

little

Heat

a

water until bright

little

butter in a

until lightly golden.

pan

Add the veal,

331

2 bunches borage

sweetbreads, and sausage meat and saute until browned.

Chop

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

cup pine nuts

Vz

7 oz. veal,

10

oz.

cubed

sweetbreads

8 oz. sausage,

crumbled

2 large eggs plus 2 large yolks, beaten

Bread from a

soaked

roll,

without crust,

Parmigiand-Reggiano, marjoram, and

A

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus 1

more

for serving

chopped marjoram leaves

tbsp.

1

garlic clove,

chopped Salt

Work

garlic.

to-

as in the recipe

homogeneous mixture. Add salt to flour and eggs to prepare a pasta dough on page 10. Roll out a sheet (see page

212) and divide

it

Use

taste.

broth or meat sauce

in

together with the greens and put the

gether to obtain a the

in

two

Deposit spoonfuls of the

parts.

along one of the sheets. Cover with the other sheet

filling ]

all this

mixture in a bowl, adding the eg£Sw and yolks, bread,

and press down, then cut out square

lightly salted boiling water; drain,

let

them dry on

Cook

kitchen towel for several hours.

with a pastry

ravioli

Lightly flour the ravioli and

wheel.

and

a

the ravioli in

toss with the

meat

sauce, adding cheese at the table. For the pasta: 414 cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed 2 large eggs

RAVIOLI

CALABRIA

BAKED RAVIOLI

1

1

1

celery stalk

2 1

Zi

carrot

medium onion

oz. lard

cups tomato puree

cup grated pecorino

Vz

For the pasta:

5 large eggs 1

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

Salt

Meanwhile, make the pasta: Use the flour

30 minutes.

and eggs page

10,

to prepare a pasta

adding the olive

on

a side.

For the

A

4

oz.

lb.

filling:

ground pork or

veal

sausage, roughly chopped 4

oz.

salame, minced

4 large hard-boiled eggs Vz

332

cup grated pecorino

dough

as in the recipe

it

in squares

on

Roll out a

with the eggs.

about 4 inches

Make

Slice the boiled eggs.

the

filling

by

combining the meat, sausage, salame, and hard-boiled eggs, then

add the pecorino.

closed, pressing oli

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

each pasta square with a

down

little

filling

and fold

Cook

along the edges.

it

the ravi-

for 7 to 8 minutes in lightly salted boiling water, drain,

and arrange some of them across the bottom of a baking dish.

Cover these with a

make another 3

oil

sheet (see page 212) and cut

Fill

more as needed

and add the vegetables. Cook until

golden, then add the tomato puree and simmer for about

3 cups all-purpose flour, plus

FOR PERSONS

Finely chop together the carrot, onion, and celery. Heat the lard in a saucepan

For the sauce:

6

on, ending with sauce

and serve

hot.

layer of sauce

layer of ravioli, sauce,

and cheese.

and cheese, then

and cheese, and so

Bake

for 15 minutes

RAVIOLI ALLA

FONDANA LAZIO

BAKED MEAT RAVIOLI Begin by combining the ingredients for the

For the 1

A

filling:

cups grated Parmigianomore as needed

ricotta,

filling.

work the Parmigiano-Reggiano

the tines of a fork

Using

into the

adding the salame, sausage meat, and nutmeg,

then tasting for

salt

Use the

and pepper.

flour

and eggs

Reggiano, plus

to prepare a pasta 1

4 4

oz.

oz.

lb.

salame, minced

spicy sausage meat, diced 1

pinch nutmeg

Roll

it

3 cups all-purpose flour,

more as needed 4 large eggs

an upside-down

saucepan.

glass cut disks

Make

Add

and saute

until soft.

Cook

sausage meat and tomato puree.

Arrange

salt,

pepper, and basil leaves.

Cook

over

oil in a

Add the medium

wine from time to time and addPreheat the oven to

the ravioli in lightly salted boiling water for

Drain and toss with the sauce.

5 to 6 minutes.

In a

minced

baking pan arrange layers of 7 oz. sausage,

sheet.

olive oil

onion, finely

from the

the sauce. Heat the olive

the onion

heat, sprinkling with

325°F.

medium

10.

Using

on themselves, pressing around the edges

to seal them.

ing

1

on page

a small dollop of the filling at the center of each disk; fold

For the sauce:

cup extra-virgin

Zi

as in the recipe

out into a very thin sheet (see page 212).

the disks over For the pasta:

plus

dough

ricqfla

ravioli

and sauce, dusting

chopped

each layer with Parmigiano-Reggiano and adding a few 3 cups tomato puree

Bake about

pats of butter.

1

5 minutes, until the sauce

A cup white wine

3

has thickened, and serve warm. Basil leaves

A cup

(4 tbsp.)

unsalted butter Salt

and pepper

RAVIOLI CON LA RICOTTA

BASILICATA

RICOTTA RAVIOLI These cheese-filled

Begin with the For the 1

Zi

filling:

cups ricotta

2 large eggs, beaten 2 tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

smooth mixture. pasta

and

dough

roll

212).

3 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

more as needed

4 large eggs, beaten Salt

go well with a meat sauce.

putting the ricotta in a bowl and

working in the eggs, parsley, and pecorino to obtain a

3 tbsp. grated pecorino

For the dough:

ravioli

filling,

Use

the flour

as in the recipe

and eggs

on page

10.

to prepare a

Divide

it

in

two

out each portion to form a thin sheet (see page

Arrange the

filling in

small piles in rows along

one sheet, then cover with the other, making certain the edges line up are not

all

around and that the ricotta-mixture

moved.

Using an upside-down

ravioli, sealing the edges.

Set

them

aside to dry.

the ravioli in lightly salted boiling water, drain,

with a meat sauce,

if

desired,

piles

glass cut out

Cook

and dress

and additional pecorino.

333

RAVIOLI DELLA

VAL

P LISTERIA

ALTO ADIGE

I

!

FRIED SAUERKRAUT RAVIOLI Sauerkraut used America.

For the

filling:

3tbsp. unsalted butter 1

small onion, finely chopped 1

tbsp. all-purpose flour,

plus Zi 1

lb.

more as needed

cup dry white wine

sauerkraut (or white cabbage),

chopped 3 juniper berries, crushed 6 black peppercorns, crushed 1

pinch cumin seeds

For the dough: Zi

1

plus 1

Zi

in Italy is less

your sauerkraut

potatoes: combine

flour,

it

make

to

in a

Add

at

make

a pasta

the

and butter with the

oil

dough

Roll the

dough out

diameter; cut this into slices that

1

0,

to

adding

rest

1

hour.

circle

of dough with the sauerkraut

and cover with another

filling

circle

filling: oil

Heat lard

the edges.

to

about

inch in a large pan and

Zi

Heat the

412). The

crushed

Remove from Use

parsley;

the tocco di funzi (mush-

same sauce

add the borage and escarole the heat

also goes very

on page

10.

dough out to form

Let the dough

circles

each

rest

1

dough

as in the

hour. Roll the

when

rolled out with a rolling pin

about the width of the palm of your hand.

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Fill

.

a cylinder about 2 inches in diameter;

cut this into slices that

form

garlic,

(or spinach)

and add the egg and cheese.

the flour and eggs to prepare a pasta

recipe

(or spinach), finely

large egg, beaten

is

1

pan and saute the onion,

olive oil in a

and

garlic clove,

bunches escarole chopped

crisp.

For these ravioli the classic sauce

chopped

chopped

and

well with green tagliatelle.

onion, finely

2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley

of dough, sealing the

edges carefully by hand and using a pastry wheel to trim

MEATLESS RAVIOLI

1

in

rolled out with a

about the width of the palm of

circles

each

when

MAGRO

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

1

Let the dough

fry the ravioli until golden

2 bunches borage, finely

on page

form a cylinder about 2 inches

to

room sauce; see page

7 or 8

as in the recipe

eggs.

it.

them and the eggs

and pepper

LIGURIA

1

and

low heat for about 30 minutes (even

together the flours and use

Sift

Fill

Lard

medium

and

until

better a full hour). Let the filling cool before using

form

oil

2 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

1

pan and add the onion; cook

the sauerkraut, juniper berries, peppercorns,

cumin and cook

rolling pin

For the

before use

ounces) ricotta with 4

7

golden. Dust with the flour and add the wine to thicken.

your hand.

I

VA cups (about

it

filling of ricotta

ravioli.

Heat the butter

2 large eggs tbsp. extra-virgin olive

RAVIOLI D

very tart, rinse

ounces of grated boiled potatoes, add some chopped chives, a minced onion, and salt. Again, let the filling cool before using

more as needed

Salt

acidic Than that found in North

is

flour,

more as needed

cups all-purpose plus

1

cups rye

If

here. A variation of this recipe calls for a

circle

of dough with the

filling

and cover with

Lard

another circle of dough, sealing the edges carefully by Salt

hand and using

334

a pastry wheel to trim the edges.

Let

For the dough: 4'/2

cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

Cook in

the ravioli rest for at least an hour.

and remove when tender, about

boiling water

5 minutes.

Drain and

dress with sauce.

2 large eggs

RAVIOLI

Dl

MAGRO

2

TOSCANA

MEATLESS RAVIOLI Grind up the chard, puree and combine

For the 6 1

oz.

Swiss chard,

potato, boiled

finely

filling:

chopped

and passed through

Add

if

it

2

possible in a mortar, to obtain a

in a

bowl with the potato puree.

the Parmigiano-Reggiano, nutmeg, olive

breadcrumbs, and a

Use

and eggs

the flour

eggs,

oil,

Mix and carefully knead.

little salt.

to prepare a pasta

dough

as in

a sieve Vi

the recipe

on page

page 212).

On

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus

more

for serving

pinch grated nutmeg

1

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

2 large eggs, beaten

Breadcrumbs

formed

one sheet distribute rows of the

into balls; cover with the

Cut out ravioli using

the edges.

form two sheets

10. Roll out to

(see

filling,

second sheet and a pastry wheel.

and

the ravioli in lightly salted boiling water, drain, dress with your favorite sauce, adding

Reggiano

seal

Cook

more Parmigiano-

at the table.

For the dough: 1

% cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed

2 large eggs, beaten Salt

RAVIOLI

MARE

Dl

LIGURIA

FISH RAVIOLI Preheat the oven to 400°F. Carefully scale the ting

For the 1

filling:

gurnard or grouper (the weight will

depend on how many

Extra-virgin olive

1

tbsp. finely 1

oil

chopped

chopped rosemary

tbsp. finely

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

2 tbsp. grated

Parmigiano-Reggiano 1

and removing any

gills

the fish, rinse

it,

put

in a roasting

it

fish, cut-

Clean

intestines.

pan with % cup

and rosemary, and bake

olive oil, half of the garlic,

until

ravioli

you intend to make)

2 garlic cloves,

away the

cooked through, about 15 minutes, depending on the size

CONTINUED

When

fish.

the fish

in a bowl,

it

Work well to

create a firm

to prepare a pasta

Knead

until a

necessary. Roll (see

filling.

dough

is

cooked cut away the

adding the remaining

parsley, Parmigiano-Reggiano,

or 2 large eggs (depending on the quantity offish), beaten

of the

meat and put

and the egg

Use

the flour

as in the recipe

garlic,

(or eggs)

on page

10.

smooth dough forms, adding water it

page 212).

pasta wheel and

out and

fill

Cut out let rest

1

as for

.

and eggs

making meat

as

ravioli

the ravioli with a knife or

hour before cooking.

Cook

335

2 sprigs

marjoram, minced

the ravioli in lightly salted boiling water; as the ravioli float to the surface

For the dough: 4 Mi cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed

remove them with

a strainer or slot-

ted spoon.

Place the cooked raviolmn a serving bowl

and serve

marjoram.

hot, sprinkled with

2 large eggs Salt

RAVIOLI

Dl

SPINACH

ALTO ADIGE

SPINACH RAVIOLI This highly “primitive” recipe of the past.

For the 1/2 lbs. Vi

cup OA

lb.)

filling:

spinach

unsalted butter Salt

It

is

typical of the cucina

povera

can be modernized and made more flavorful

by frying the spinach with a

minced onion, prosciutto

little

crudo, and brains.

Clean and wash the spinach, then

boil in water just until

Drain very well and chop. Heat 2

very bright green.

tablespoons butter in a pan and cook the spinach until For the dough: 2 cups rye flour, plus

more as needed

its

liquid evaporates, then salt to taste

Use the

1

and eggs

on page

recipe Vi

flour

cup milk

large egg

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1

0,

and

to prepare a pasta

set aside.

dough

as in the

adding the milk with the egg.

out a sheet (see page 212) and cut

it

Roll

Arrange

in half.

the filling in small balls along one sheet of pasta, placing

the balls about 2 inches apart in rows; cover with the Salt

second sheet and using a pastry wheel cut out square ravioli.

Press

down

along the edges to

remove them with a butter

slotted spoon.

Melt the remaining

serve.

SWEET RICOTTA Dl

RICOTTA

ABRUZZO

in

and toss with the ravioli. Sprinkle with Parmigiano-

Reggiano and

RAVIOLI DOLCI

Cook

seal.

they float to the surface

lightly salted boiling water; as

RAVIOLI Ravioli are to be

6

found

all

over

Italy,

FOR PERSONS

with fillings of meat,

vegetables, or ricotta, but sweet ravioli like these, typical of

1/2

For the

filling:

cups sheep’s-milk

ricotta

6 large egg yolks 1

tbsp. 1

chopped marjoram

tbsp. grated

lemon zest

Sugar to taste

Ground cinnamon

to taste

CONTINUED

336

Teramo, can be found only noisseurs dress these

in

the Abruzzo. Even today, con-

ravioli only

with sugar and cinnamon.

Those who are not fond of such “antique” flavors can replace the sugar, cinnamon, and marjoram with salt and parsley.

Mix

the ricotta, egg yolks, marjoram,

cinnamon, and

salt to

make

the

lemon

the flour and eggs to prepare a pasta recipe

on page

10. Roll

zest, sugar,

filling; set aside.

dough

Use

as in the

out a thin sheet of dough (see

page 212) to use to make square

For the pasta: 2/3 cup all-purpose flour,

side)

more as needed

plus

in lightly salted boiling water;

4 large eggs

BASILICATA

adding a

I

I

2

if

These

ravioli

Make

the

less the

same way throughout

and celery

chopped

the meats, cook until browned, then

celery stalk,

chopped

oz. veal

9 oz. lbs.

lamb

plum tomatoes, peeled

chopped Pinch

until the

and

the parsley a pasta

dough

dough

the

Cut

parsley

wheel

or, as

Make

the

meat

heat until

carrot,

soft.

Add

add the tomatoes.

tender, about an hour. Stir in

30 minutes

flour

was the custom

and eggs

on page

roll

about 3 inches

filling: Stir

spinach in

is

Use the

chili.

as in the recipe

rest

in disks

it

medium

in the oil over

pepper flakes

flat-leaf

chili

Simmer

Basilicata.

meat sauce: In a pan, saute the onions,

chopped

olive oil

FQR PERSONS

are typical of Monticchio Bagni. Ravioli are

more or

in

carrot,

cup extra-virgin

desired.

6

onions,

9

tbsp.

Parmigiano-Reggiano

little

1

!4

1

and cook

being careful to keep them

medium

1

2

inch on a

SPINACH-RICOTTA RAVIOLI made

For the sauce:

ravioli (1 filling, seal,

Drain and toss with a light tomato sauce,

from breaking.

Salt

R AVIUOLI ALLA MONTICCHIAN A

these with the ricotta

Fill

.

it

in

10.

to prepare

After letting

out with a rolling pin.

diameter using a pastry

in the past, with a glass.

the ricotta in a bowl. Blanch the

lightly salted boiling

water for a minute. Drain,

For the dough:

squeeze dry, and chop roughly.

Add

to the ricotta

and

3 cups all-purpose flour,

more as needed

plus

3 large eggs

mix 1

Vz

in the eggs, parsley,

tablespoons of the

disk.

For the

filling:

2 cups ricotta

1

tbsp.

seal the

fingers.

Cook

2 large eggs, beaten

fore serving.

1

a dollop of

the center of each pasta ravioli

and

edges by pressing along them with dampened

toss with the

flat-leaf

filling in

Fold over the disks to form half-moon

2 cups spinach

chopped

and cognac. Place

in lightly salted boiling water, drain,

meat sauce. Add pecorino

and

(or ricotta) be-

parsley

tbsp. cognac

Grated pecorino (or aged ricotta) Salt

RIGATONI

Al

C AVOLFIORI VERDI

CAMPANIA

CAULIFLOWER RIGATONI This dish

is

typical of Naples.

Boil the cauliflower whole in lightly salted water to cover; 1

large green cauliflower

CONTINUED

drain

when

enough

still

very

to handle,

al

dente and set aside.

chop

into small pieces.

When cool Heat the

337

4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

olive oil in a

oil

2 garlic cloves

Hot Vi

chili

pepper

cup pitted and chopped

34

and

cloves

and add the

at

Gaeta (black) olives

pepper

chili

low heat,

Add

cup crushed capers if from Pantelleria)

pan over low

garlic

olives, capers,

stirring, until the

lb.

1

Discard the

and anchovies.

garlic

Cook

anchovies disintegrate.

the cauliflower and blend with the sauce, mixing

Cook

well for 5 minutes.

(best

boiling water until

4 salt-cured anchovies

heat; very slowly saute the

until golden.

al

the rigatoni in lightly salted

dente, drain,

and quickly

toss with

the cauliflower sauce. Serve piping hot.

rigatoni

LOCAL TRADITION

RIGATONI CON LA PAGLIATA In

the past, this rigatoni dish typical of

the intestines of oxen, but pagliata usually including

some

Rome was prepared

means

literally

—

by preference

— using

the intestines of a milk-fed

of their milky contents. The skin

calf,

would be removed from the

underlying meat of the intestine, and the whole cut into long pieces; the cut ends of

each piece would then be tied together to form "rounds,” to keep the contents from dispersing during cooking. The pagliata would then be cooked olive oil

and lardo flavored with onion,

celery,

and carrot, just

in a large,

until

heavy pot

in

browned. White

it

wine would be added and evaporated before the addition of tomato puree. The whole dish would then cook for a further two hours until the sauce ful.

Tradition dictated that each person

became dense and

was served two “rounds” over

flavor-

boiled rigatoni

mixed with the sauce and pecorino.

RIGATONI WITH SAUSAGE |

RIGATONI ALLA SILANA

CALABRIA

!

AND MUSHROOMS This dish

is

typical of the Sila Massif, the little-known

tain forest inland 1

lb.

plum tomatoes, chopped

moun-

from the Calabrian shoreline.

In a saucepan (terra-cotta

if

possible),

combine the

to-

peeled, seeded, and

matoes, onion, 1

medium

onion,

chopped

guanciale, 2 garlic cloves

this 2 tsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

cup torn

basil leaves

CONTINUED

338

mushrooms,

olive

oil,

and

pepper.

Let

salt to taste

and

chili

cook slowly for a few hours, adding

little water if too much liquid seems to cook away. Cook the rigatoni in lightly salted boiling water, drain when still very al dente, and add to the sauce in the pan

also a

Yi

garlic, parsley, basil, prosciutto, sausage,

6 oz. prosciutto crudo, diced 6 oz. dry sausage, sliced

4

oz.

guanciale, cut

strips

Toss well to season and sprinkle with

very low heat.

When

well

blended transfer to a serving bowl and serve hot.

mushrooms,

porcini

oz.

1

in

at

pecorino, pepper, butter, and caciocavallo.

soaked, dried, and chopped in

small pieces

l

olive oil

h cup

1

dried

chili

pepper, crumbled 1

Vi

lb.

rigatoni

cup grated pecorino

4tbsp. unsalted butter 4 oz. fresh caciocavallo

Black peppercorns to taste,

ground

in a

mortar

RIGGIDANELLA

CALABRIA

BAKED PASTA WITH EGGPLANT Make

a

ter in a 4tbsp. unsalted butter

4tbsp. all-purpose plus

flour,

more as needed

bechamel sauce: Heat 4 tablespoons of the butsaucepan. Stir in the flour and cook for a minute;

do not allow

to

it

brown.

Add

the hot milk very slowly,

whisking constantly. Continue to cook on medium-low heat, until the sauce has thickened. Salt to taste.

Pre-

2 cups milk, heated

heat the oven to 400°F. Butter a baking pan. Heat half of 1

(or

1

Zi

cup extra-virgin

%

lbs. ripe

28-oz.

olive

oil

plum tomatoes

can peeled tomatoes) 4 or 5 basil leaves 2 garlic cloves

1

1

1

lb.

lb.

small piece

chili

pepper

the olive garlic,

thick,

saucepan and add the tomatoes,

oil in

and

pepper.

chili

then pass

lengthwise.

Salt

remaining olive

short pasta (short rigatoni

until golden.

similar kind) Salt

through a food mill and

them, then drain them a

oil in

a pan,

set

it

aside.

little.

them

Heat the

slices

of eggplant;

a layer of bechamel. Next,

place a layer of the cooked pasta, then add

some of the

tomato sauce, then another layer of eggplant over

and so on,

Bake

for about

or until the liquids evaporate. If it has

you can turn directly

this,

layer after layer, ending with a layer of egg-

plant and bechamel sauce.

it

to

Cover the bottom

pan with

on top of the eggplant spread

Boil the pasta in

under cold water

stop the cooking, and drain well. sides of the prepared

it

slice

add the eggplant, and cook

Drain on paper towels.

salted water until al dente, pass

and

basil,

over low heat until very

Clean the eggplants, cut off the ends, then

eggplant (about 2 medium)

ora

it

Cook

it

1

5 minutes,

become compact,

out onto a serving plate; otherwise, serve

from the baking pan.

339

.

RIPIENI DELLE TIELLE

PUGLIA

FILLINGS FOR TIELLAS The

tiella (tfr teglia) is

Prepare the dough as With octopus (or squid or cuttlefish): 2

lbs.

octopus (those with two rows of suckers on their tentacles)

or squid or cuttlefish 2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley 3 garlic cloves 3

A

Chili

adding neither olive

oil

1

whole

cuttlefish)

in a pan,

nor water; cover, and cook them

own liquid. Let them cool, then slice in pieces. Combine the sliced octopus with all the other ingredients, let them sit to absorb the flavors, then use the mixin their

ture to

fill

the

tiella.

Bake

as in the recipe

on page 411.

plum tomatoes, peeled, drained, and cut in pieces

pepper

(as

much as

desired)

cup extra-virgin 14

olive oil

cup dry white wine 1

pinch salt

With onions: 14

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

2 lbs. onions, thinly sliced

4 large eggs, beaten 2 tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

scamorza cheese or cheese from Itri,

7 oz.

cut

in

and pepper

With escarole and cod: 4/2

lbs.

escarole

soaked and chopped in pieces (or anchovies, boned and soaked in olive oil

Vi lbs. salt-dried cod,

overnight)

3 garlic cloves, chopped

Pinch 2 tbsp.

chili

chopped

pepper flakes

flat-leaf

% cups pitted Gaeta

Heat half the

pan over low heat and add the

olive oil in a

When the onions begin to take on color, pour in

onions.

the eggs, parsley, 2 tablespoons olive

Reggiano. Season with with

well. Fill the tiella

on top of the

filling.

salt

tiella

and Parmigianostir

to

mix

this.

Lay

Then

cover with another disk of

dough. Pinch the edges to the

oil,

and pepper and

seal

the slices of scamorza

them well. Pierce the top of

and brush with the remaining

olive oil before

small pieces

Salt

1

recipe on page 41

Put the octopus (or squid or

lb.

14

1

the layered dish so typical of Puglia.

in

placing in the oven. Bake as in the recipe on page 411.

Wash

the escarole, drain, toss with

a weight over after a

to

all

it

salt,

wilt. Stir it

dry.

and cover

it

Meanwhile combine the

of these ingredients with the escarole.

dough

with

every so often and

pepper, parsley, olives, and olive

chili

this filling in the

recipe

make

few hours squeeze

cod, garlic,

Mix

it

lining the

tiella.

Bake

oil.

Place as in the

on page 411.

parsley

(black) olives

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

2 or 3 tbsp. coarse salt

With anchovies or sardines: 1

Zi lbs.

fresh anchovies or sardines 1

Vi

cups dry white wine

CONTINUED

340

Wash and bone Let them

sit

the fish, removing the heads

for about

30 minutes

in white

with vinegar. Drain well and pat dry.

and mix them with the

and

tails.

wine mixed

Crush the

fish

olive oil, garlic, chili pepper,

4 cup white wine vinegar

}

cup

olive oil

garlic clove,

minced

!4

1

Pinch

and

olives,

Use mixture

salt.

to

fill

the lined

tiella

and

bake as in the recipe on page 411.

pepper flakes

chili

Black olives, pitted Salt

With spinach and ricotta: 3 cups fresh ncotta 2 tbsp. pine nuts tbsp. raisins,

1

soaked

warm water and

in

Work

together the ricotta, pine nuts, raisins, butter, and

pepper.

Add

mixture to

fill

the spinach

the lined

tiella

and blend and bake

Use

well.

this

as in the recipe

on

page 411.

drained

2 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened 12 cups spinach, washed, dried,

and chopped Pepper

BAKED RICE RISO A ROSTO

LIGURIA 4 tbsp. unsalted butter

cup coarsely chopped

Vt

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a baking dish. Heat the butter in a

pan over low

and cook

until fragrant.

Chop

heat;

add the parsley and onion

Remove them from

the pan.

together the two kinds of veal and cook.

Cook

parsley

flat-leaf 1

AND MEAT

small onion, chopped

the rice for 10 minutes in the

with a

little

broth

if

meat sauce, thinning

Add

necessary.

it

the onion mixture,

6 oz. lean veal (loin)

veal, 4

oz. veal

meat sauce

3 cups

(sugo

di carne,

Meat broth

see page 634) (if

When

and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

breast

2)6 cups Arborio rice

rice, al dente,

mixture into the dish, pat until

it

cooked (the

should be somewhat dry) pour the rice it

down

with a fork, and bake

has a nice crust, about 25 minutes.

necessary)

3 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

RISO ALLA GENOVESE

LIGURIA

GENOESE RICE

cup extra-virgin 1

1

olive oil

tbsp. unsalted butter

medium

onion,

minced

6 oz. sausage meat, crumbled

CONTINUED

and butter

in

an ov-

When the onion is

golden

Preheat oven to 350°F, heat the

enproof pan; add the onion. Vn

oil

add the sausage meat, peas, artichoke, and mushrooms.

Cook

slowly with the addition of a

Meanwhile, cook the

little

broth.

rice in lightly salted boiling water

but for only 5 minutes; drain and add to the sauce.

Add more

broth and Parmigiano-Reggiano and bake

341

J4 1

Vi

cup fresh shelled peas

artichoke, cut

in

thin slices

cup dried mushrooms, soaked

warm

until the rice

cooked and the top has formed a

is

crust,

about 30 minutes. ^

in

v

water, drained, and chopped 1

cup meat broth 3

cups

rice

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

LOCAL TRADITION RISO CO-1 FIDE This dish, typical of Sestri Levante

and sea urchin

in Liguria,

took

its

fresh flavors from sea

The anemones would be sauteed

roe.

in

anemones

butter before adding rice to

the pan to toast. Broth of reef fish or limpets would be gradually added and cooked into the rice.

When

the rice

was

nearly cooked,

it

was removed from the heat and

im-

mediately poured over the roe, stirred, and covered for two to three minutes. Salt was

never added to either the anemones or the broth.

RISO CON GRANSEOLA E

DATTERI

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

WITH CRABS

RICE

AND RAZOR CLAMS Wash

the clams

Cover and cook 2 lbs. razor clams 1

1

tbsp. olive

oil

small onion, minced

2 cups Vialone nano rice

Cooked meat />

cup

of 2 large crabs flat-leaf

Salt

parsley

and pepper

the clams give liquid,

at

up

the olive

oil

let it toast,

all

their liquid.

When

pan without

water.

Drain, reserving the In the

shells.

and cook the onion

until soft.

same pan heat

Add the rice, Add salt

then add the clams and their liquid.

and pepper. Cover and cook, low heat.

in a

high heat until the shells open and

and discard the

Chop

the rice

is

the crab mixture

342

and put them

stirring occasionally, over

together the crab meat and parsley.

nearly cooked, about 25 minutes, add

and any

liquid contained in the crabs.

CON LA ZUCCA

RICE

WITH SQUASH

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

This dish

is

RISO

typical of Ferrara. All’onda

means when you ripple like

6tbsp. unsalted butter 1

small onion, minced

the ocean, that

in

means “wavy,” which

the pan the surface of the rice should

Heat half the butter

in a large

move

is,

seeded, and coarsely chopped

Pour

cooks to a puree.

tbsp. sugar

boils

add the

until

it is

rice.

Lower

in the

milk and as soon as

and simmer the

the heat

6 cups milk 1

Zs

cups Carnaroli

fluidly.

pan and saute the onion.

Add the squash, salt, and sugar and cook until the squash

2!4 lbs. winter squash, peeled,

1

waves

tilt

rice

when

If the rice is

all’onda.

still

the milk has been absorbed,

it

rice

not fully cooked

add warm water.

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Season with the remaining butter and ParmigianoSalt

Reggiano. Serve immediately.

LOCAL TRADITION RISO CON This dish of rice

and

livers

FEGATINI

I

from the Veneto was an abundant feature

at festive country

weddings, since thetraditional slaughter of poultry at such events meantthe ingredients

would

all

be

in

ready supply. The giblets of hens, geese, and other poultry were roasted

with onion, celery, cinnamon sticks, black pepper, and white wine until cooked through,

before the rice

served

later.

was added and cooked with

ladles of fine broth

The finished soup would be served boiling hot and

from boiled meats to be "fixed,”

meaning with a

high relationship between rice and liquid, with abundant grated cheese.

RISO E ASPARAGI

LOMBARDIA

I

RICE

AND ASPARAGUS

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano may also be added at the end of the cooking of this dish.

Cut away any rough 2 cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice 4

oz.

Taleggio or similar cow’s-milk

remove the outer stalks in

areas

on the asparagus

stalks

layer with a vegetable peeler.

bunches with the

tips all at the

and

Tie the

same height and

cheese, cubed

trim the bottoms of the stalks so that they are

all

the

3 tbsp. unsalted butter

same

length.

Stand them in

lightly salted boiling water,

343

and

cover,

them simmer about

let

1

5 minutes.

reserving the liqujd, apd cut off the

Add

stalks.

to a boil,

Cook

it

occasionally so that

the rice, stirring

and

RICE

VENETO

water to the cooking liquid to bring it

tips,

and add the

finely

butter.

Mix

well

and

to

absorbs

serve.

AND BEANS

Heat the lardo with the sage

2),

it

it

rice.

Before serving fold in the cheese, asparagus

in a

pan (preferably earth-

enware) until fragrant, then saute the onion, 2 oz. salted lardo (see page

Drain,

Discard the

around 8 cups, return

the liquid.

RISO E FAGIOLI

tips.

Add

pork rind; add the beans.

garlic,

and

the tomato puree, basil,

minced

and

as

much

water as needed to cook the beans.

Cook

A few sage leaves until the 1

medium

beans are tender but not mushy.

along with more water 1

A

lb.

if

needed, although the result

garlic clove, thinly sliced

4 3

Add the rice

onion, thinly sliced

oz.

pork

should be dense.

chopped

rind,

dried beans, soaked

in

Cook until

the rice

is

tender.

water

overnight and drained 2 tbsp. tomato puree

A few

basil leaves

4 cups rice

RISO E FAGIOLI

ALLA FELTRINA

VENETO 2 cups dried cranberry beans

FELTRE-STYLE |

RICE

AND BEANS

Boil the beans in lighdy salted water to cover with a bay leaf

and sage

and

set aside.

when cooked put through a food mill Cook the rice until al dente in 7 cups

leaf;

(Lamon), soaked overnight

and drained 1

1

bay leaf

sage

leaf

3 cups Vialone nano rice

(can use Arborio)

4 tbsp. unsalted butter 2 oz. cheese, preferably

Piave stravecchio Salt

344

lightly salted water.

and pack turn

it

it

into a

Drain, mix in the butter and cheese,

round mold with a hole

out on a serving plate.

Fill

in the center;

the hole in the center

of the mold with bean puree and serve.

RISI E PISELLI

1

VENETO

RICE

AND PEAS

Popularly

known as

nano 2 tos. fresh 'A

cup

peas

unsalted butter

(4 tbsp.)

2tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

t 1

garlic clove,

minced

medium

onions,

2 1

Zz

minced,

butter and

in

in

the province of Vicenza),

oil.

When cooked add Lumignano peas

and the

right

amount

When

of broth.

the soup

broth can be replaced by water

parsley

in

is

about me-

Shell the peas, setting aside the pods. ter

and the

olive oil in a

Add

nano

minced onion.

or Carnaroli)

in the parsley,

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

Heat half the but-

pan and saute the

the peas with a

and cook

medium

at

clean the pea pods, cutting

and put them

of the

which the fresh pods were

chopped

rice (Vialone

of

add aroma and delicacy to the soup.

celery stalk,

A cups

pre-

the correct ripeness, cook until just tender, then add the rice

chopped

2

is

dium thickness add grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Some

chopped

flat-leaf

this dish, typical of the Lumig-

bisi,

chop pancetta, parsley, and onion and

carrot,

1

1

saute

e

risi

mountainous area

like this: finely

boiled, for this will

cup chopped

1

1

(a

pared

1

little

and the

garlic

water, sprinkle

Meanwhile

heat.

away the stems, wash them,

in a pot of lightly salted boiling water, with

the remaining onion, carrot, celery,

and

salt;

simmer

for

1

hour, making sure the level of the water does not diminish

too much.

Strain the resulting broth

and adjust

for

When the peas are almost cooked, add the rice, let a few minutes, then slowly

When the

pods.

maining

RISI E PISELLI 2

VENETO

rice

is

add the broth from cooking the

done, add the cheese and the re-

butter. Serve the rice alVonda (see

RICE

AND PEAS

This recipe

2

lbs.

fresh peas

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

3 tbsp. unsalted butter 1

garlic clove,

2 1

2 tbsp.

1

onions,

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

carrot,

chopped

celery stalk,

chopped

1

1

medium

minced,

chopped

chopped

it.

was much

The dispute

in

use

in

Venice during the doge’s

/3

Padua claims to have

the

in a

Heat the

pan and saute the

olive oil

garlic

and

Add the peas, a little water, and and cook at medium heat. Clean the pods then

minced onion.

parsley

cook

in lightly salted boiling water with the

onion, carrot, and celery.

Add

salt.

chopped

After about

1

hour

of cooking (the water should not diminish too much)

Add the rice to the peas, toast for a few

cups Vialone nano rice

minutes, then begin adding the broth, a Zz

in-

the subject of ongoing controversy.

Shell the peas, setting aside the pods.

and half of the butter

strain the broth. 2 1

is

page 343).

2

(chief magistrate’s) festivities, but

vented

salt.

toast

it

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

cook the

rice, stirring constantly.

little

When

at a time, to

the rice

is

cooked add the remaining butter and the ParmigianoReggiano, and mix

well.

345

RISO

RAPE OR RAPATA

E

1

LOMBARDIA

RICE

AND TURNIPS

This dish

is

typical not only of the Milan area but also

all

of

Lombardia. A widespread variation begins with a minced half 3

A

Vi

cup

lb.

flat-leaf

2

oz.

tender turnips

onion and 4 ounces of prosciutto fat cooked

parsley leaves

of

garlic clove,

crushed 5

1

1

54

(if

Before the rice

this,

cooked

is

desired)

then salt and pepper and the

is

added

at the table.

Clean the turnips, trim and peel them, and cut

cups meat broth

Immerse the

thin slices.

cups Vialone nano rice

slices in

Wash

minutes, then drain.

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

add the

in very

cold water for 30

the parsley

together with the lardo , adding garlic, the broth to a boil,

10 cups

slices of boiled turnip are added,

then butter and parsley. Grated cheese

(or 4 oz. prosciutto fat) 1

water are poured over

rice.

lardo (see page 2)

in butter;

if

and mince

it

Bring

desired.

and when the water

turnips,

returns to a boil, add the rice and parsley mixture.

Cook

high heat

at

cooked add

1

5 to

20 minutes and when the

cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, mix

V2

rice

well,

is

and

put in a tureen. Serve with more cheese.

RISO E SEDANO

VENETO

1

with a 1

1

medium

celery stalk, diced onion, thinly sliced 1

3

risotto consistency, all’onda.

celery, onion, carrot, olive

Add

a saucepan.

salt,

oil,

and butter

in

then cook over very low heat for

minced

about 30 minutes, or until completely softened (almost

cup

olive oil

to a

mush), adding the wine halfway through the cook-

ing.

Transfer this mixture to a pot and add the broth.

Vz

6 cups broth, plus

medium

Combine the

carrot,

4tbsp. unsalted butter 14

AND CELERY

RICE

This dish can be served almost dry, brothy like a soup, or

cup white wine

more as needed

cups Vialone gigante

rice

When stir

the broth

to keep

sorbed

all

it

comes

from

to a boil

the liquid

pour

When

sticking.

in the rice

and

the rice has ab-

add tablespoons of boiling broth

(can use Arborio)

until reaching the desired thickness. Salt

RISO E TRIPPA ALLA VERONESE

VENETO

VERONESE RICE

Wash and cook 1

2 lbs. tripe Ya

cup

olive

oil

CONtlNUED

346

AND TRIPE

Z2

hours.

ter in a

Cut

the tripe in water to cover for at least it

in strips.

Heat the

pan and saute the onion,

and rosemary. tripe in the

Salt

and pepper

cornmeal and add

it

olive oil

and but-

carrot, celery, parsley,

to taste.

Dredge the

to the pan, then

add half

4 tbsp. unsalted butter 1

medium 1

chopped 1

at

low heat for

chopped

according to the thickness of the

carrot,

chopped

is

2 celery stalks, chopped 2 tbsp.

Cook

the broth.

onion,

flat-leaf

parsley

sprjg rosemary Zi

at least 2 to 3 hours,

tender add the remaining- broth and

pour

a boil

When the

tripe.

when

it

tripe

returns to

In about 20 minutes the mix-

in the rice.

ture will have reached the right thickness for a

soup. Sprinkle with cheese and add

more

to

each

good plate.

cup cornmeal

6 cups meat broth 1

% cups Vialone nanoVice (can use Arborio)

2 tbsp. grated Veronese monte

cheese (can use ParmigianoReggiano), plus

more

for serving

Salt

and pepper

IN

CAGNON

WITH MEAT SAUCE RICE

RISO

LIGURIA

According to Waverley Root, this dish gets

resemblance 2/3 cups rice (Arborio or Carnaroli) 4 cups

meat sauce with sausage (see page 413) 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

worm

Boil the rice until half

only a

little salt;

name from

the

cagnon.

cooked

drain and put

meat sauce made with meat.

its

of the grains of rice to a kind of black-headed

called, in the local dialect,

a

in water to cover with it

in a

saucepan with a

good deal of crumbled sausage

When the rice is cooked alVonda

(see

page 343),

turn off the heat and mix in the butter and Parmigiano-

Reggiano. Serve hot.

RISO

IN

CAGNON

PIEMONTE

RICE WITH CHEESE SAUCE Bring lighdy salted water to a rice.

2 cups Baldo or Carnaroli rice it

into

boil in a

pot and add the

Cook it and drain it, leaving it very soft, and pour a warmed bowl. Add the cubed cheese, stirring

(can use Arborio) 7 oz.

toma from Maccagno

or bettelmatt (can substitute fontina),

cubed

well until

it

melts and blends thoroughly.

In

pan over

medium heat, heat the butter and when it browns pour it over the rice. Add the cheese.

4 tbsp. unsalted butter

Z2 cup

grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

347

RISO VERDE

MARCHE

GREEN RICE

r

Heat the

saucepan and when

olive oil in a

As soon

the vegetables. ]4

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

2 celery stalks, finely chopped 2 carrots, finely chopped

stirring well

it is

and pepper, and when the

hot add

add the

and slowly adding warm water.

butter, then salt stir in

as they are soft

rice,

Add

rice

is

the

tender

the parsley.

2 leeks, finely chopped 1

small onion, minced

large head of spinach, cleaned,

1

drained, and finely chopped 1 Vt,

cups Vialone nano or Carnaroli rice

1

tbsp. unsalted butter

2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley Salt

and pepper

FINOCCHIO E RICOTTA

RISO,

CALABRIA

RICE WITH FENNEL AND RICOTTA Clean, rinse, and chop the fennel. Boil

water to cover until 2 bunches fennel (wild 1

% cups rice

if

possible)

(Vialone

nano

utes.

Use

Drain and

it is

it

in lighdy salted

cooked through, about

set aside, reserving the

the liquid to cook the rice,

1

0 min-

cooking

liquid.

and when the

rice

is

or Carnaroli)

tender drain 6

it

and

carefully blend in the ricotta

nel.

Serve hot.

FONSC

RICE

AND MUSHROOMS

PIEMONTE

This dish

is

RISOT

E

typical of Novara.

Melt half of the butter 4 tbsp. unsalted butter

medium

1

onion, 1 y-i

minced

cups rice

3 tbsp very dry cognac

4Kz cups broth half beef

and

(if

possible

mushrooms

chopped

(in

season), finely

(or dried

mushrooms,

soaked, drained, and chopped)

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

348

in a

saucepan and add the onion.

When the onion has taken on some color pour in the rice and turn the heat up. Toast the

rice lighdy,

and when

it

has taken on color add the cognac and turn the heat up to high to evaporate the alcohol.

boiling broth

half chicken),

heated to boiling Fresh

and fen-

oz. ricotta

and

let it

Cover the

Meanwhile melt the remaining butter the rice

mushrooms and cook is

rice with

cook, at low heat, without stirring.

for a

nearly cooked, add the

in a pan.

few minutes.

mushrooms,

Add

When

stir well,

the

and

serve hot. Serve the Parmigiano-Reggiano at the table.

RISOTTO

FINOCCHI

Al

PIEMONTE

RISOTTO WITH FENNEL This dish

is

Heat the 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

4tbsp. unsalted butter 1

medium

onion, finely

chopped

leek, finely

chdpped

1

Zi carrot, finely

chopped

4 oz. sausage

meat, breaking

hearts,

it

up with

a

the sausage

wooden spoon.

Stir in the

carrot.

and

add the wine and

lucent,

Add

meat

toss to coat with the

Vi

cup broth,

oil.

stir until

liquid

Zi

5 Vi

cup dry white wine

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1

tbsp. finely

wooden spoon,

Zi

cup

at a time, stirring constandy. After

tbsp. finely

taste the rice for texture

should be

dente: tender, but not mushy.

rice

dente, turn off the heat

is al

butter

al

and cheese.

Al

FUNGHI

PIEMONTE

the remaining

Before serving sprinkle on the pars-

and fennel fronds.

RISOTTO WITH MUSHROOMS Heat 4 tablespoons butter then add the mushrooms.

1

It

the

parsley

6 tbsp. unsalted butter

lb.

stir in

When

chopped fennel fronds

RISOTTO

1

and

about

chopped

flat-leaf 1

until

and seasoning.

20 minutes,

ley

the

trans-

the wine evaporates.

stirring with a

Carnaroli rice

cups chicken or vegetable broth

is

of the liquid has been absorbed. Continue adding

chopped

(can use Arborio)

Add

When the rice

Pinch fennel seeds

1%cups

pan and saute

in a

Add

and

fennel and fennel seeds and cook 2 minutes.

all

Vh cups fennel

and half the butter

the onion, leek, celery,

rice,

% stalk celery, finely chopped

typical of Asti.

olive oil

medium

porcini

onion,

minced

mushrooms,

sliced

2 cups Arborio rice

the rice

and cook

the heat and

in a

pan and saute the onion,

When they are browned add Remove from

as in the recipe above.

work

in the

remaining butter with a

Parmigiano-Reggiano and cover

it

for a

litde

few minutes

before serving.

cups broth

5

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

RISOTTO AL BARBERA

PIEMONTE

RISOTTO WITH BARBERA This risotto

Heat the 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

CONTINUED

is

typical of Monferrato.

olive oil

and half the butter

the marrow, bay leaves, and onions. are pale,

in a

saucepan.

When

add half the wine and the potato

Add

the onions

flour

and cook

349

down

6 tbsp. unsalted butter

marrow, minced

2 oz. beef

2 bay leaves

medium

2

2

Zi

and add

broth,

cups Barbera wine

Then add the rice, raise the heat, and wooden spoon, let the rice absorb

it

half the remaining wine with

when

the rice

is

well toasted.

% cup of Add

the

tomato puree and sage (which should be removed when

Pinch potato flour

the rice this

possible, or Arborio)

cooked).

is

Warm

When

the remaining wine.

second helping of wine has been absorbed cook the

risotto as in the recipe

Meat broth

When

on page 349.

the rice

is

tender work in the remaining butter and Parmigiano-

3 tbsp. tomato puree 1

Mix

the liquid.

onions, minced

2/3 cups rice (Roma or Baldo, if

the liquid.

while stirring with^a

bunch sage

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Reggiano, give

it

and

nutmeg plus another

finish with

a generous grinding of black pepper,

3 to 4 tablespoons

of warmed Barbera.

Pinch grated nutmeg

Black pepper

RISOTTO WITH BAROLO

RISOTTO AL BAROLO

PIEMONTE

This dish

is

typical of Cuneo.

Heat half the butter with the bay 4 tbsp. unsalted butter

1

medium

onion, finely

Stir a

chopped

2K2Cups Arborio 1

the onion

bay leaf

1

rice

2

leaf in a saucepan.

until soft, then

pour

is al

Add

in the rice.

few minutes then add the Barolo and cook

until

it

Gradually add the broth, stirring until the

evaporates.

rice

cup Barolo red wine, slightly

and saute

dente, as in the recipe

on page 349.

Add

the

remaining butter and cheese. Serve hot.

warmed

cups beef broth

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

|

RISOTTO AL GORGONZOLA

PIEMONTE

I

RISOTTO WITH GORGONZOLA Heat half the butter is soft.

5 tbsp. unsalted butter 1

medium

onion,

minced

2 cups Arborio rice Vi

cup dry white wine 4 cups meat broth

3 oz. Gorgonzola dolce,

3

oz.

Gorgonzola piccante, chopped 1

Salt

350

chopped

cup heavy cream

and pepper

(if

necessary)

Pour

Add

in a

the rice

pan and saute the onion

and

toast

in the white wine, let

it

it

for a

on page 349.

it

evaporate, then continue

cooking the rice by adding the stock a in the recipe

until

few minutes.

little

at a

time as

About 20 minutes through

the cooking add the two types of Gorgonzola and cream, stirring well to

sary, al

add

salt

make them blend

and pepper.

into the rice. If neces-

When

the rice

is

cooked

to

dente, add the remaining butter, cover for about 3

minutes, then serve.

RISOTTO AL NERO SEPIA

Dl

VENETO

BLACK RISOTTO WITH CUTTLEFISH INK Heat the garlic,

3 tbsp. extra-vii?gin olive

lb.

1

oil

1

small onion, minced

1

garlic clove,

cuttlefish,

minced

cleaned and

olive oil in a

adding

Pour

parsley. sacs.

Cook

from time stirring

salt

at

saucepan and saute the onion and

and pepper.

in the red

Add

the cuttlefish

low heat for about 40 minutes,

Add

to time.

and

wine and crush 2 of the ink stirring

and continue cooking,

the rice

constandy and adding ladlefuls of the broth as

cut into strips (with ink sacs) 3 tbsp. finely

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

% cup red wine 1

needed, as in the recipe on page 349.

cooking in about 20 minutes. heat, give

it

one

Remove

final energetic stir,

Complete the the

and

pan from the

serve.

% cups Vialone nano rice 4 cups vegetable broth

(or fish stock

from cooking

crustaceans or small Salt

fish)

and pepper

RISOTTO AL SOUFFLE E PISTILLI Dl

ZAFFERANO

SAFFRON RISOTTO SOUFFLE

PIEMONTE

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Melt half the butter in a sauce-

For the rice:

the rice and saffron and toast, then add the broth gradu-

pan, then add the onion and saute until translucent. 14 lb. (1

stick)

1

unsalted butter

cup chopped onion

'A

A cups Arborio

2

rice

2 tsp. saffron threads

ally as in

bechamel sauce little

1

cup heavy cream

For the souffle:

%

lb. (1

stick) plus 3 tbsp.

unsalted butter

on page 349.

Meanwhile, use the butter,

2 cups chicken or vegetable broth

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

the recipe

maining butter, and cheese

Stir in the

at the

flour,

as in the recipe

Add

cream, re-

end of cooking.

and milk

to prepare a

on page 349. Whisk a

of the bechamel into the eggs to

warm them,

then

whisk the eggs back into the bechamel in the pan. Remove

from the heat and egg whites.

stir in

the cheese. Gently fold in the

Put the cooked

risotto into a

deep baking

dish and cover evenly with the egg mixture.

minutes

until the

top

is

Bake 20

golden and serve immediately.

2 tbsp. all-purpose flour 1

cup milk

10 large eggs, beaten

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 2 large egg whites, beaten

stiff

351

RISOTTO AL VINO ROSSO

RISOTTO WITH RED WINE

PIEMONTE

For the wine use Dolcetto, Freisa, or Grignolino.

Melt the butter 4tbsp. unsalted butter

Pour

2/i cups Vialone nano rice

Zi

rice as in the recipe

cup red wine

meat

Add the rice, stirring well.

wine and when

in the

it

has evaporated begin

adding, as needed, ladlefuls of boiling broth to cook the

(can use Arborio)

4 cups

add the onion, and cook with-

in a pan,

out letting the onion brown.

small onion, minced

1

stantly, for

broth,

stir in

heated to boiling

on page 349.

Cook,

stirring

con-

about 20 minutes, then remove from the heat,

Parmigiano-Reggiano, cover, and

let rest

about 5

minutes before serving hot.

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

RISOTTO ALL’ANATRA D VALLE

WILD DUCK RISOTTO

1

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

This dish

is

typical of Cesena.

Pluck and clean the duck inside and out. Heat the olive Half a wild duck, about 2 lbs.

cup extra-virgin

Vi 1

medium

onion,

oil in

olive oil

.

!4

cup Trebbiano wine

1

tbsp.

1

until the

wine has evaporated.

browned,

stir in

salt

and pepper and the wine, simmering

When

Remove

the

in pieces; use the less attractive pieces to

tomato paste, a little water

pull the

in

% cups Vialone nano rice

meat off the bone and return

the butter

and add the

translucent, then

6 cups broth (duck, capon, or rich chicken), heated to boiling,

needed.

as needed

sauce.

pour

rice.

Cook

in ladles

duck has

the

Cook

the tomato paste mixture.

low heat about 90 minutes.

(or other dry white wine)

diluted

Add

minced

4 02 pancetta, diced

pan and add the onion and pancetta. Add

a large

the duck.

over

duck and cut

make

to the

a sauce:

pan.> Heat

until the grains are

of boiling broth as

When the rice is half cooked add the duck When the rice is done add the butter and a good

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

amount of Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Serve the duck meat

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

(breast, thigh) atop the risotto Salt

on

a serving plate

and

and pepper

provide cheese at the table.

RISOTTO ALLA CERTOSINA

LOMBARDIA

1

FROG LEG RISOTTO Frogs were once abundant Italy.

3/2

lbs.

freshwater prawns

2 lbs. frogs, skinned

and

without heads

is

in

the rice paddies of northern

a specialty of the province of Pavia. For the

wine use a white from the area of Oltrepo Pavese

Remove

the

frogs, grind

CONTINUED little

352

This dish

tails

from the prawns and the

what remains

in a mortar,

if

legs

and

lighdy salted water with the bay leaves.

possible.

from the

boil

it

in a

Pass the

2 bay leaves 6 cups fish broth from fish

that has been cooked

resulting liquid through cheesecloth

adding

Heat the

fish broth.

Add

the vegetables.

without lemon or vinegar

and keep warm,

olive oil in a

on page 349, adding the peas with the Zi

cup extra-virgin

olive

Zi

cups

first

addition of

oil

broth. 1

pan and saute

the ri'ce'and cook as in the recipe

chopped celery, garlic, and onion

Add

the frogs legs after 10 minutes, then

add the

finely

carrot,

3 3A cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice

fresh peas, sheUed

lb.

1

1

perch

lb.

fillets

All-purpose flour

prawns

Meanwhile, cook the

5 minutes later.

the fish

fillets

in flour.

onion until golden.

fish.

Dip

Heat the butter and saute the

Add the fish and cook until browned.

Sprinkle with wine. Sprinkle the rice with parsley and serve with the fish

on

top.

2tbsp. unsalted butter

medium

1

onion, sliced

cup dry white wine

Zi

Flat-leaf parsley,

chopped Salt

RISOTTO ALLA D PORRI

CREMA

I

PIEMONTE

RISOTTO WITH CREAM OF LEEK Heat half the butter

pan over low heat and slowly

in a

saute the onion, garlic, carrot, Zi

cup Zi

1

(J4 lb.)

cup

finely

unsalted butter

chopped onion

small garlic clove, finely chopped Zi

2 02

.

cup chopped carrot

mushrooms, chopped

Zi lb. leeks,

white parts

sliced in rings

and rinsed,

greens chopped fine and rinsed well 6 cups chicken or vegetable broth 1

Vi

cups rice

(S.

Andrea,

if

possible

or Arborio)

When

cook for

1

hour, adding

more warm water

Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter

Add the

rice

and cook

as in the recipe

as the broth

in a

saucepan.

on page 349, add-

When

ing the leek puree in place of the broth. is al

leeks.

Blend, then strain to create a smooth mix-

evaporates. ture.

mushrooms, and

they begin to brown, add the broth and slowly

the rice

dente add the cream and take the rice off the heat.

Stir in the

remaining butter and cheese. Serve in indi-

vidual bowls, decorating the bowls with the remaining leek greens.

Z3 cup heavy cream

Z

3

cup Parmigiano-Reggiano

RISOTTO ALLA MARINARA SICILIA

SEAFOOD RISOTTO Rinse the clams and scrub and clean the mussels. Steam the clams and mussels in a covered

1

1

lb.

lb.

clams

mussels

CONTINUED

pan with no addi-

tional water until the shells open; shell

them

(discard-

ing the shells) and reserve the liquid they have given off, straining

it

and

setting

it

aside.

Cook

the shrimp in

353

small shrimp

lb.

1

Zest of

lemon,

1

in

cup extra-virgin

]4 1

medium 1

onion,

strips

carrot,

cut

with the mussel and clam broth. * Heat the olive

a

saucepan and saute the onion,

minced

in

strips

Add the

the tomato paste,

tomato paste

1

spicy

chili

and

and clams.

oil in

carrot.

Stir for a

cup of the

few

Add

evaporate.

let it

dilute with a

and cook, covered,

cook the

2/2 cups Vialone nano rice

Zi

stir,

celery,

fish

broth

(from cooking the clams, mussels, and shrimp), add pep-

cup white wine

tbsp.

squid, shrimp, mussels,

minutes, pour in the wine, and

shell

and combining

it

it

per, 1

their4>roth, straining

minced

2 small squid, cleaned and

Vi

them and reserve

olive oil

celery stalk, minced 1

water with the lemon zest until pink;

lightly salted

rice in a

than 4 cups of

water;

when

sary, a

few tablespoons of the

pepper, minced

Meanwhile,

for 10 minutes.

little less

half cooked

lightly salted

add the seafood and,

if

neces-

Incorporate

fish liquid.

cup grated aged caciocavallo

and

the chili pepper, caciocavallo, parsley (or basil),

let

2 tbsp. finely chopped flat-leaf

parsley (or basil) Salt

rest a

few minutes before serving.

and pepper

RISOTTO ALLA MILANESE

LOMBARDIA

SAFFRON RISOTTO WITH MUSHROOMS Until 1909, in

the years

when Milan was still populated chiefly was always made without wine

by L’Aquila Milanese, risotto Zi

cup pan juices from cooking meat 1

oz.

bone marrow

(double this amount

if

you have

no pan juices), chopped 5 tbsp. unsalted butter 1

small onion, finely sliced

2 cups rice (Carnaroli, Arborio,

or Vialone nano) 4 cups veal or chicken broth 2 tsp. saffron threads,

warm 1

1

soaked

in

broth and drained

cup dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in warm water, drained, and chopped

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

or (horror of horrors) beer, as indicated 1821,

in

recipes from 1809,

and 1843. The cervellato (brains) were no longer used,

having been replaced by

marrow

or pan juices. The saffron

threads (not powder), guarantee of authentic saffron, could be found at herbalists or at

San Gavino

in

in

the area of production, such as

Sardegna or

L’Aquila in the Abruzzo. The

true Milanese eat risotto with a spoon. Serve with red wine. If

desired add

1

ounce

Put the pan

and onion

juices,

in a

cook

it

of white

bone marrow, 4 tablespoons

butter,

saucepan over low heat; cook slowly

the onion takes well to let

mushrooms or slices moment of serving it.

of dried

truffle over the risotto at the

on a golden hue.

absorb the

as in the recipe

flavors.

Add

the rice

Turn up

the heat

Add

on page 349.

until

and

stir

and

the saffron

way through Add the mush-

threads to the rice about two-thirds of the the cooking time (about

rooms. rice

1

2 minutes)

.

Last add the remaining butter and cheese. The

should be alVonda (see page 343), not dry, with the

grains visibly separate but joined by a creamy mixture.

354

COUNTRY-STYLE RISOTTO ALLA PAESANA

LOMBARDIA

RISOTTO This risotto

is

typical of the Alta Brianza

Heat the butter united

4 tbsp. 1

medium

butter

onion, finely sliced

2 cupSjrice

onion.

in a

saucepan

and Milano.

low heat and saute the

with the lardo (or pancetta) and

Stir in the rice

add broth, cooking

at

as in the recipe

on page 349. Serve

with cheese.

2 oz. lardo (see page 2) (or pancetta),

4 cups

minced

meat broth

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

RISOTTO ALLA PARMIGIANA

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

RISOTTO WITH

PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO Heat the sided

4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 'A lb. (1 stick)

oil

plus 3 tbsp.

olive oil

and 4 tablespoons butter

pan over low

in a high-

onion until golden,

heat. Saute the

then add the rice and

stir it

Cook

on page 349, adding wine

as in the recipe

to coat with the mixture. first,

unsalted butter 1

medium

onion, finely

chopped

2 Zi cups Carnaroli rice (can use Arborio) Zi

4 cups capon broth Zi

then broth.

Adjust for

salt.

When the rice is

al

dente,

add the remaining butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Mix

well

and serve immediately.

cup white wine

(skimmed

of fat)

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

RISOTTO ALLA PILOTA

LOMBARDIA

RISOTTO WITH SALAME The name has nothing to do with airplanes and refers instead to rice huskers,

1

2

/3

cups Vialone nano

rice

6 oz. salame (preferably Castiglione delle Stiviere)

or lean pork, cubed 4 tbsp. unsalted butter Zi

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus

more

for serving

Salt

and pepper

known as

pilarini or piloti. Very similar is the

Riso col puntel, traditionally eaten during the celebrations ac-

companyingthe slaughter

of a pig.

A

to each plate, standing up with the

a handle (puntel).

Mantuan salame

grilled

pork chop

is

added

meat end pointing up is

made

like

with a mixture of

lean shoulder meat. At Castiglione delle Stiviere, a typical area for this rice dish, until a few years ago

embers

it

was cooked over the

of a fireplace, using a pot covered by rags with bricks

placed on top to guarantee the hermetic closure.

In a heavy pot that holds heat well, boil Carefully pour in the rice a a cone, the tip of

little at

which extends

2

l /3

cups water.

a time so that

just

it

forms

above the water.

355

Shake the pot from right

around the

the rice at high heat for the heat,

stir

the rice,

on the

a cloth, putting

Let

it sit

like that for

the salame

from

its

1

and

1

seal

lid,

it

mirftites,

casing.

CON

RHUM

IL

PIEMONTE

2

cup extra-virgin

medium

olive oil

onions, finely chopped

2 celery stalks with leaves,

1

finely

chopped

carrot, finely

chopped

2 garlic cloves 7 oz. lean

sausage meat,

casings removed

with it.

in a

pan over

When the rice has had

add the cooked salame,

add some of the Parmigiano-Reggiano, and

stir stir,

side.

RISOTTO WITH SAUSAGE

AND RUM Heat the

Crumble

saucepan and saute the onions,

olive oil in a

and

celery, carrot, 14

it

on

Meanwhile remove

then serve with more cheese on the

RISOTTO ALLA SALSICCIA

then turn off

a weight

Heat the butter

it,

Cook

shut by covering

and placing

mix

jerks to

with a spoon.

5 minutes.

15 minutes, uncover

again,

it

0 to 12

low heat and brown the salame. its

sudden

to left in

rice without.touching

garlic

(remove when

it is

meat and brown.

in the sausage

golden).

Setting aside

rum and cook, Add the rice and toast it, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add the tomato paste mixture. Then cook the rice as in the recipe on page 349. Add the bouquet garni along with the first addia few tablespoons of meat, pour in half the stirring, until

it is

absorbed.

tion of broth (and

remove

it

at the

end of cooking)

.

cup rum

When

the rice

2/3 cups Arborio rice

stir in

the butter, the remaining rum, remaining meat,

Zi

4 or 5 tbsp. tomato paste, diluted

in

1

cup

warm

is

and cheese. Let

it

alVonda (see page 343) and

rest 3

al

dente,

minutes and serve hot.

broth

Bouquet garni wrapped in (1 sprig rosemary,

cheesecloth

sage, 2 bay leaves) 6 cups pork or chicken broth

4 tbsp. unsalted butter 14

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Black pepper

RISOTTO ALLA TROTA

CON ZAFFERANO

ABRUZZO

RISOTTO WITH TROUT

AND SAFFRON Simmer the medium trout in lightly salted water to cover, drain,

6 medium-size trout Vi

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

CONTINUED

356

and

Clean the pieces,

strain the

trout,

and

cooking water, setting

it

aside.

bone them thoroughly, cut them in small

set aside.

Heat half the

pan and saute the onion

until soft.

olive oil in a sauce-

Mince

the small trout

1

medium

onion, finely

and add

chopped

2 small trout

little

Pinch saffron threads (if

rice to the

possible from L’Aquila)

2Vi cups Vialone nano rice !4

cup dr^ white wine

chopped

flat-leaf

Add the

onion mixture and' cook the risotto as in the

recipe

on page 349, adding the saffron

When

the rice

is

liquid

first.

almost cooked add the trout and wine.

Transfer the rice to a serving bowl and dust with parsley.

t

2 tbsp.

Dissolve the saffron threads in a

to the pan.

of the trout cooking liquid and set aside.

parsley

Drizzle with the remaining olive

and

oil

serve.

Salt

RISOTTO WITH

PORK AND YEAL

RISOTTO ALL’ISOLANA

VENETO

meaty

This

rice dish takes its

name from

4

oz.

4

oz.

lone nano rice

lean veal, diced

pork

loin,

diced

is

unsalted butter

Melt the butter

1

sprig rosemary

then the meat.

6 cups veal broth 1

ing

% cups Vialone nano rice

in a

salt

and pepper;

pan over low

heat.

let rest for 1

hour.

Add the rosemary,

Brown the meat and cook it slowly, remov-

and discarding the rosemary. Bring the broth

in a pot,

Via-

grown.

Season the meat with

14 lb. (1 stick)

the town of Isola

where the special

della Scala in the Veneto, the region

pour

in the rice,

and lower the

heat.

to a boil

Simmer,

(can use Arborio)

covered, until the rice has completely absorbed the liquid, Zi

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

about 25 minutes. At 1

tsp.

cheese, Salt

PIEMONTE

|

4 tbsp. unsalted butter

2 porcini

onion,

minced

mushrooms,

sliced

2 cups rice

4 cups broth 5 oz. fontina, Vi Kz

point add the meat mixture,

cup dry

Stir well

and serve immediately.

RISOTTO WITH SPUMANTE, FONTINA, AND MUSHROOMS Heat half the butter

Add medium

and cinnamon.

and pepper

RISOTTO ALLO SPUMANTE, FONTINA, E FUNGHI

1

this

ground cinnamon

Asti

cubed

Spumante

the onion

When cook as

the onion

When

is

in the recipe

utes of cooking

in a large

and saute

brown add

is al

and the spumante,

the rice, toast

stir in

stirring until

it,

and

After about 15 min-

fontina, stirring until

dente,

heat.

then add the porcini.

on page 349.

add the

the rice

saucepan over low

until soft,

it is

melted.

the remaining butter

it

is

absorbed.

Re-

move from the heat and stir in the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Cover and

let

stand 5 minutes before serving.

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

357

E

RISOTTO ALLO ZAFFERANO ZUCCHINE IN FIORE

PIEMONTE

RISOTTO WITH SAFFRON

AND ZUCCHINI FLOWERS Heat 3 tablespoons butter saute the shallot.

Ya lb. (1 stick)

plus

1

tbsp.

ring to toast

it.

unsalted butter 1

shallot,

chopped

rated cook the risotto as in the recipe

After about

1

5 minutes

2 small zucchini, diced

Baldo (or other

Vi

6

At

superfine) rice

desired doneness.

cup white wine

good grinding of pepper, and

cups vegetable broth

and cheese. Let stand

on page 349.

add the saffron and the zucchini

and continue cooking

flowers

1%cups

pan over low heat and

in a

Add the zucchini and then the rice, stirAdd the wine, and when it has evapo-

until the rice reaches the

that point adjust for salt, put in a

for a

stir in

the remaining butter

few minutes before serving.

Pinch saffron threads 8 zucchini flowers,

cleaned and chopped 4 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

and pepper

RISOTTO CON FILETTI Dl PERSICO E FIORI D ZUCCHINE I

PIEMONTE

RISOTTO WITH PERCH

AND ZUCCHINI FLOWERS Melt 3 tablespoons butter

Add

onion. Vi lb. (2 sticks)

plus 2 tbsp.

the rice

When

wine.

and

in a

saucepan and saute the

toast,

then pour in the white

the wine has evaporated begin cooking

unsalted butter 1

medium

the rice by adding the fish broth as in the recipe onion, finely

on page

chopped

Meanwhile heat 5 tablespoons butter

349.

in a

second

2/3 cups Carnaroli or Baldo rice (can use Arborio) Yi

cup dry white wine

6 cups fish broth (preferably

made

with lake fish)

pan and saute the zucchini rice

when

fillets

the

it is

in the

pan

in

flowers.

nearly cooked.

to the

Lightly dip the perch

breadcrumbs. Heat the remaining butter

which the flowers were cooked and

in

strips

perch until browned. When the rice

20 perch

fillets

on top and

20 zucchini flowers, cut

Add them

is

cooked

in

fry the

set the fish

sprinkle with parsley.

Breadcrumbs 2 tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

RISOTTO CON GAMBERI Dl FIUME

PIEMONTE

RISOTTO WITH

FRESHWATER PRAWNS Clean the prawns and pot.

1

Ya lbs.

freshwater prawns

CONTINUED

358

Add

shell

them, putting the

shells in a

the onion, celery, garlic, parsley, a few pep-

percorns, and about 6 cups of cold lightly salted water.

Bring to a boil and simmer for about 30 minutes, then

1

medium 1

1

chopped

strain the broth

chopped

pan and saute the

garlic clove, slivered

chopped

2 tbsp.

and

onion,

celery stalk,

flat-leaf

parsley

A few peppercorns 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 2 shallots, finely

the wine

it

and

when

has evaporated begin adding the fish broth and

it

it

as in the recipe

on page 349.

and

After about 20 min-

add the prawns and tomato puree.

and pepper, and when the

rice

Add

for a few minutes.

olive oil in a

rice, stirring

to toast

utes

chopped

2cupsVialone nano

then add the

around

cook

oil

Heat the

set aside.

shallots,

rice

Adjust for

salt

done add the butter

is

serve.

(can use Arbdrio)

cup dry white wine

/a 1

1

tbsp.

tomato puree

tbsp. unsalted butter Salt

and pepper

RISOTTO WITH BLADDER

RISOTTO CON GLI STRIGOLI

1

CAMPION AND ONION Bladder campion can also be used to make a soup: having

LOMBARDIA

sauteed the onion and campion, cook the Va lb. (1 stick)

plus

1

with the broth, then bind

tbsp.

unsalted butter 1

medium

onion,

recipe

chopped

is

rice,

thinning

it

with egg yolks and cheese. This

it

typical of the area of Brescia.

Heat half the butter in a saucepan over low heat and saute

9 oz. strigoli (bladder campion;

the onion.

Add a little salt and the bladder campion. After

see note, page 729), chopped

a minute or two

add the

rice,

and when the

rice

well

is

2 cups Carnaroli rice

coated with butter begin adding the broth and cook as in

(can use Arborio)

the recipe

Chicken or vegetable broth fi

it

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1

1

10/2

garlic clove,

oz. strigoli

oil

crushed

(bladder campion;

see note, page 729), chopped

2V3Cups Carnaroli

rice

6 cups chicken or vegetable broth

dente,

remove

WILD GREENS This risotto

from the recent past

between Foligno and Spoleto. 5 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

is al

remaining butter and

RISOTTO WITH

RISOTTO CON

UMBRIA

rice

in the

cheese. Serve very soft.

Salt

GLI STRIGOLI

on page 349. When the

from the heat and mix

olive oil

and

a wild

It

is

widespread

in

the area

uses the local extra-virgin

herb dear to the gastronomic tradition of

the areas around Foligno and Spoleto.

Heat the

olive oil in a

bladder campion. utes, then

Cook

Salt salt.

add the

saucepan and add the

Cover the pan and cook rice

and

toast

the rice as in the recipe

it

for

1

garlic

5 to 6

and

min-

to 2 minutes.

on page 349. Season with

Serve without cheese.

359

RISOTTO CON

RISOTTO WITH HONEY MUSHROOMS

CHIODINI

1

VENETO

This recipe Is typical of the Montello area.

Heat the

A

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley 1

cup honey mushrooms

"nails," in Italian;

A

cup

(4 tbsp.) 1

1

Vi

pan heat

half the butter

onion,

high heat and add until all

a risotto, in a separate

and saute the onion. Add the

toast to coat the grains, then gradually

add the

on page 349.

After

about 20 minutes begin adding the cooked mushrooms.

minced

cups Vialone nano

and

broth, cooking as in the recipe

unsalted butter

medium

To make

absorbed.

is

rice

at

and honey mushrooms; cook

the liquid

(chiodini,

can use pioppini)

wide pan

olive oil in a low,

the garlic, parsley,

garlic clove

1

When the rice

rice

stir in

5 cups chicken or vegetable broth

is al

dente,

remove

it

from the heat and

the remaining butter and the cheese.

2 tbsp. grated

Parmigiano-Reggiano

RISOTTO CON FAGIOLI DELL’OCCHIO 1

1

LOMBARDIA

RISOTTO WITH BEANS This dish

is

very popular

in

the area of Lomellina. For the

wine use Bonarda. 1

14

cups small dried beans, shelled

Soak the beans

6 cups chicken broth 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

least 12

oil

small onion, chopped 1

1

Heat the

leek,

brown

for a

1

hour.

saucepan and cook the

until soft.

Add

the salame

Pour

in the

Add

evaporate.

in a

few minutes.

onion and leek

chopped

small salame, chopped

and butter

olive oil

at

Drain them, then put the

beans in the broth and simmer them for about

2 tbsp. unsalted butter 1

by several inches

in water to cover

hours before use.

and

let it

wine and

let it

the rice and, after a brief toasting,

with fat removed

slowly add the broth with the beans as in the recipe on Vi

cup red wine

page 349

until the rice

is

cooked

al

dente.

2 Zi cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice

RISOTTO CON

IL

GRISO

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

1

RISOTTO WITH CAMPION Boil the

campion

until wilted, drain,

Heat half the butter 1

lb.

bladder campion ( Silene

agustifolia; see note,

removing

it

when

in a

light

and

finely chop.

saucepan and cook the

brown.

Add

the

garlic,

campion and

page 93) saute, then

add the

rice; stir

quickly then begin slowly

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

adding the broth as with a normal risotto (see page 349). 1

3

garlic clove

cups Vialone nano

When

360

the rice

is

almost cooked add the Parmigiano-

rice

CONTINUED

Reggiano, adjust

salt

and pepper, and add the remaining

.

4 to 6 cups chicken or

vegetable broth

butter. In the

end the

should be somewhat fluid

rice

alVonda ; see note, page 343)

(,

Ys

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

and pepper

SPICED RISOTTO RISOTTO CON

IL

TASTASAL

VENETO 4tbsp. unsalted butter small onion, chopped

1

1

garlic clove, Ya

crushed

cup dry white wine

10 oz. fresh, soft salame

WITH SALAME This dish

is

inally

made

ing of

its

typical of the

Heat the butter

and slowly cook mixture and

cups Vialone nano

skimmed

pan and saute the onion and let it

Add the

evaporate.

Mix

thoroughly.

soak up the flavors.

on page 349,

garlic.

salame

the rice into this

Add the broth as

stirring until the rice

Complete the

by working

risotto

is

al

in the cheese,

of fat

cloves, Yi

orig-

rice

dente. 6 cups pork broth,

it

let it

in the recipe Vi

in a

Pour in the wine and

(preferably tastasal), minced 1

Veronese countryside and was

following the slaughter of a pig and the butcher-

meat.

cinnamon, and pepper.

cup grated cheese (such as Parmigiano-Reggiano) Pinch ground cloves Pinch ground cinnamon

Ground pepper

RISOTTO CON LA SALSICCIA

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

RISOTTO WITH SAUSAGE This risotto

is

1

typical of Ferrara.

In a large saucepan heat half the butter; add the onion. 4tbsp. unsalted butter 1

small onion, finely chopped 1

% cups Carnaroli Ya

rice

cup dry red wine

6 cups pork broth 6 oz. pork sausage meat, diced

4 tbsp. tomato puree Yi

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

When mix

begun

the onion has

well to

make

it

pick

wine and

raise the heat to

the rice a

little

When

up

to

brown add

the flavors.

cook

it

off.

the rice and

Pour

at a time, as in the recipe

on page 349.

the rice has cooked about 15 minutes

sausage and tomato puree.

remove the pan from the the remaining butter

When

in the

Add the broth to

the rice

heat, adjust for salt,

add the

is al

dente

and

stir in

and Parmigiano-Reggiano; serve

Salt

immediately.

361

RISOTTO CON LA SALSICCIA E

IL

CAVOLO

VENETO

RISOTTO WITH SAUSAGE

AND CABBAGE Heat 4 tablespoons butter

1

medium

onion,

minced

celery stalk, minced

1

3 luganeghe sausages

(can use fresh, mild

pork sausage), crumbled 1

bead Savoy cabbage,

outer leaves removed, head cored and chopped 2 cups Zi

rice

and

stir

shines with the wine at a

is

in a saucepan.

and cabbage and

celery, sausage meat, 5 tbsp. unsalted butter

Add

Add

constandy with a wooden spoon

oil.

Pour

Add

absorbed.

the broth to the rice a

ing the rice, constandy stirring, and

mixture remains very

soft,

A moment

meaning

it

making sure the

before the rice

and

the remaining butter, milk,

littie

Finish cook-

all’onda (see note, is

a generous

rice

Parmigiano-Reggiano.

the

until

in the white wine, stirring until

time as in the recipe on page 349.

page 343).

the onion,

saute.

Stir vigorously

cooked add

amount of

and serve

hot.

cup dry white wine 6 cups pork broth,

skimmed

of fat

and Zi

Za

boiling

cup milk

cup grated

Parmigiano-Reggiano

RISOTTO CON LA TINCA

PIEMONTE

RISOTTO WITH TENCH Clean the tench, removing the heads and

them 2 lake tench 1

1

tbsp. white wine vinegar

medium 1

onion, quartered

carrot, roughly

chopped

celery stalk,

chopped

1

Za lb. (1 stick)

unsalted butter

2 tbsp. finely chopped

1

flat-leaf

parsley

garlic clove,

minced

2 cups rice

aside),

and gutting them.

water with the vinegar and set

When

they have cooled,

6 cups of water to a

add the

fish

in

Meanwhile bring heads and

scales,

onion, carrot, and celery, and cook for about 30 minutes; strain this liquid into another pot.

butter in a

pan and cook the

fish fillets,

cook both sides while trying not the remaining butter in a pot garlic.

broth.

Add

the rice, toast

When the rice

into small pieces

362

them.

fillet

boil,

scales (setting

Simmer the fish aside when cooked.

and

is al

stir

Heat half the turning

them

to break them.

to

Heat

and saute the parsley and

it,

then slowly add the

dente, break the tench

them

in.

fish

fillets

RISOTTO CON LA TINCA DEL

GARDA

VENETO

RISOTTO WITH

LAKE GARDA TENCH Carefully clean the tench, removing the guts and cutting off

2 tench,

4

Zi tsp.

4%

lbs.

each

all-purpose flour

cup extra-virgin olive oil possible from Lake Gat’da) Zi

(if

plus

more

for serving

5 sage leaves 1

medium lb.

1

1

tbsp.

onion, thinly sliced

Add

and butter in

the fish

them

and

and

set

and

set aside.

and simmer

them

aside; pass the

Put the

for about

them. Heat the

pan and saute the sage and onion.

a

fry

the fish in pieces,

salt

until golden.

fish

a sieve

heads in 3 cups of water

30 minutes;

heads, and set aside.

Remove them

pan remains through

strain, discarding the

Put the tomatoes, nutmeg,

tarra-

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

gon, parsley, and wine in a large pan and simmer for at

Pinch grated nutmeg

pieces of tench, removing every scale, bone, or piece of

tbsp.

1

olive oil

and

flour,

unsalted butter,

Za lb. (1 stick)

Cut

and reserving the heads.

dredge the pieces in the

chopped tarragon

chopped Zi

flat-leaf

parsley

cup dry white wine

2 cups Vialone Salt

nano

rice

and pepper

Meanwhile

30 minutes.

least

hard

skin.

Add

carefully take apart the

the resulting pulp

and the pan remains

tomato mixture and continue cooking for

to the

Use

20 minutes.

this

at least

mixture, which should be abun-

dant, to proceed with the preparation of a risotto as in the

on page 349, using as the

recipe

from boiling the

fish heads.

liquid the broth obtained

Serve the risotto hot, add-

ing a tablespoon of butter to each plate and using very little

RISOTTO CON LA ZUCCA E FAGIOLI FRESCHI I

LOMBARDIA

pepper.

RISOTTO WITH SQUASH

AND BEANS This risotto

is

very good hot, but

some people

prefer

it

just

warm. 7 oz. fresh shelled beans 1

lb.

winter squash, peeled

Cook

the beans and the squash in 10 cups of water until

When the two vegetables are cooked, use a ladle

tender.

and roughly chopped to

scoop up the squash pieces; crush them with a spoon

3 cups rice

and return Za lb. (1 stick)

to the pot.

Add

the rice

and immediately

unsalted butter

(fresh

if

possible)

3 tbsp. grated

Parmigiano-Reggiano

A generous pinch of grated nutmeg

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

after

it

6 tablespoons butter and simmer for about 15

minutes.

At

this

point add the Parmigiano-Reggiano,

nutmeg, and the remaining butter; 5 minutes.

If the

have been followed, the result risotto

let it

cook for another

cooking times and the ingredients will

be dense, almost

alVonda (see note, page 343).

It

like a

should be served

with a sprinkling of cheese.

363

RISOTTO CON LE LUMACHE

PIEMONTE

RISOTTO WITH SNAILS Purge the

snails (see

them out of their 24 snails 2tbsp. unsalted butter 1

medium 1

1

onion,

minced

garlic clove,

minced

and

olate

on

color,

snails

and proceed with cooking the

cream and

the

have taken

risotto as in the recipe

rice

dente,

is al

serve.

cup dry white wine

Zi

cup

the snails lightly in flour,

When the

on page 349, using the broth. When the stir in

pan over

in a

Add the choc-

garlic.

Add the parsley followed by the

add the wine.

All-purpose flour for dredging

Za

Dredge

vinegar.

then add them to the pan.

rice tbsp. white wine vinegar

1

Heat the butter

low heat and saute the onion and

unsweetened chocolate

oz.

page 16), clean them, and take

shells.

chopped

flat-leaf parsley,

2

cups rice

4 cups chicken broth Zi

cup heavy cream

RISOTTO CON

POVERACCE

LE

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

RISOTTO WITH CLAMS This recipe

typical of Porto Garibaldi.

is

Begin by making the sauce. Heat the prosciutto 2 oz. prosciutto Za

cup

fat,

minced, or

and

butter)

1

tablespoon olive

then add Zi

cup

1

mushrooms,

until softened,

chopped flat-leaf marjoram

parsley and fresh 1

about

celery stalk,

minced

cooked pass the sauce through a food

dried

4

oz.

medium

heat.

clams from their

shells

(if possible poveracce from Emilia-Romagna)

flat-leaf

oz.

water over

dry white wine

chopped

parsley

dry white wine

6 cups clam or fish broth

CONTINUED

down

little

water

necessary.

if

Wash

mill.

it

to eliminate

the

little

Cover and, shaking the pan by

until they open.

Remove

the

and drain off the broth,

straining

Put the remaining

olive oil

any sand.

an earthenware pan and add the

and half the butter

in

remaining

soon as the

garlic; as

for

When

clams in cold water then put them in a pan with a

them

6 tbsp. unsalted butter

4

hour, adding a

the handle, heat

2 lbs. plum tomatoes,

chopped

1

clove

peeled, seeded, and

it

Cover the pot and cook over medium-low heat

salt.

1

364

then pour in the wine and cook

almost completely; add the tomatoes and season with

minced

mushrooms, soaked, drained, and chopped

tbsp.

a pinch of pepper. Saute

minced

Za oz.

1

and

onion,

1

10 oz. clams

clove,

carrot,

medium

1

marjoram, onion, carrot,

garlic clove, parsley,

olive oil

celery, tbsp. each

fat (or

a pot over low heat,

crushed

3 garlic cloves, 1

oil in

unsalted butter

(4 tbsp.)

garlic

browns remove

and add the parsley then the clams and wine.

it

Raise the

heat to cook off about half of the wine then add the sauce diluted with a

little

of the clam broth. *

minutes then add the broth. the rice, season with

salt, stir,

Cook

for 10

Bring to a boil and add

and cook the

rice as in the

1

% cups Carnaroli rice

recipe

(can use Arborio) Salt

and pepper

RISOTTO CON LE RANE

PIEMONTE

on page 349,

1

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive Ya

cup chopped 1

oil

flat-leaf

parsley

garlic clove,

minced

2 carrots,

minced

This recipe

is

*

typical of Novara.

frogs,

wash them, and use only the Heat half the

ing the bone.

olive oil in a

saute the parsley, garlic, carrots,

little

olive oil in a pot,

rate.

of the onions, and cel-

Cook the rice

ute before taking

as in the recipe

it

Heat it.

Add the wine and let it evapo-

A min-

on page 349.

celery stalk, diced

Ya

remov-

add the other onion, and saute

Add the rice and toast it.

2 small onions, finely sliced

1

legs,

saucepan and

Add the frog legs, cover, and let slowly cook.

ery.

2 cups Arborio rice

Fin-

FROG RISOTTO

a

1

wooden spoon.

remaining butter and a good

pinch of pepper. Serve hot.

Clean the 24 frogs

stirring with a

ish the risotto with the

off the heat, taste for salt

and pepper

then add the frog legs and their sauce and work in the

cup white wine

butter

and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve piping

hot.

6 cups vegetable broth Salt

and pepper

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

and pepper

RISOTTO CON LE RIGAGLIE

PIEMONTE

RISOTTO WITH GIBLETS

4 chicken livers 4 tbsp. unsalted butter

Sage 5 cups chicken broth 2 tbsp. olive 1

1

oil

small carrot, chopped

small celery stalk, chopped 1

medium

onion,

chopped

2 cups fine or superfine rice (Arborio, Carnaroli, Vialone nano) 1

tbsp.

When

Clean the gizzards and boil them.

cooked cut them 3 gizzards

half the butter in a

pan and add the

mixture.

Brown them, then add

Heat the

olive oil

and saute the to toast

it.

and

their

Heat

sage, then the liver

Heat the broth.

salt.

tablespoon butter in a saucepan

Add

the broth a

rice as in the recipe

puree.

1

vegetables.

Add

they are

in slices together with the livers.

the rice little

and

at a

stir it

around

time to cook the

on page 349, then add the tomato

After about 20 minutes add the gizzards and

cooking liquid, setting aside a

little

to

add

at the

end along with the remaining butter and ParmigianoReggiano.

tomato puree

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

365

RISOTTO CON LE

SALAMELLE

LOMBARDIA

!

RISOTTO WITH SALAME AND ONION Heat the butter

Add unsalted butter

'A lb. (1 stick)

medium

1

7 oz. soft

onion, finely sliced

salame (preferably from

Cremona), peeled and chopped

in a

pan and saute the onion and salame.

wooden spoon

the rice, stirring with a

to toast

it.

Slowly add broth as in the recipe on page 349, constantly stirring until the risotto

is al

dente. Sprinkle with

cheese and serve.

3 cups Vialone nano rice 6 cups chicken broth

A cup

2

grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

RISOTTO CON LE SECOLE

VENETO

RISOTTO WITH SECOLE Secole are strips of meat from along the vertebrae of cows.

They are highly prized today by connoisseurs for their par-

A cup olive oil 2tbsp. unsalted butter

oz.

Heat the

olive oil

and butter

1

small onion, minced

and saute the onion,

1

celery stalk, minced

salt,

1

10

ticular flavor.

carrot,

minced

beef secole (see note)

2 cups Vialone nano rice

celery,

saucepan over low heat

and

carrot.

and pepper and cook slowly

When

cooked pour

Add

the secole,

for about 2 hours.

in the rice, stir to blend, then

the risotto as in the recipe is

in a

on page 349.

cook

When the rice

cooked add the cheese. The rice should be very alVonda

(can use Arborio)

(see note,

page 343).

4 cups beef broth

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Zi

Salt

and pepper

RISOTTO CON SALSICCIA

LOMBARDIA

RISOTTO WITH SAUSAGE Heat half the butter olive oil

1

Yi sticks plus 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

3 tbsp. olive 1

1

1

oil

small onion, finely chopped

h cups Carnaroli

2

or Arborio rice

cup dry white wine, such as Gari 6 cups chicken broth (to

which 2

tsp. of

then add the rice and

pan

Cook stir

at

low heat and add the

until the

onion

is

golden

Add

well for a few minutes.

V2 cup of the wine and cook at high heat another 5 minThen add the broth mixture and continue cookutes. ing the rice as in the recipe on page 349.

A

minute

before the end of cooking work in a tablespoon of butter

and

a

good helping of Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Heat

tomato paste

have been added)

CONTINUED

366

in a

and onion.

2

the remaining butter in a

2-inch lengths.

When

pan and cut the sausage

the butter

is

into

golden add the sau-

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

sage.

sausage

wine.

1

After a few minutes, pour in the remaining white

Pour the sausage mixture over the

serve hot.

RISOTTO CON SALSICCIA E C AVOLFIORE

VENETO 4tbsp.

{Vz stick)

unsalted butter

1

celery stalk, finely sliced

1

small onion, finely sliced

3 luganeghe sausages, crumbled Florets of 2 Vz

1

chopped

cauliflower,

cups Vialone nano rice

risotto

and

-

-

RISOTTO WITH SAUSAGE

AND CAULIFLOWER For the wine use Soave or bianco

di

Heat 3 tablespoons butter

pan and saute the

in a

Custoza.

Add

onion, sausage meat, and cauliflower.

and

toast well then

until the

pour

in the wine, stirring constantly

wine has evaporated.

adding the boiling broth as

Cook the

in the recipe

Just before taking the rice off the heat

butter

celery,

the rice

rice

by slowly

on page 349.

add the remaining

and the cheese.

J^cup dry white wine 6 cups broth, boiling !4

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

RISOTTO AL BRANZINO

VENETO

RISOTTO WITH SEA BASS Clean and scale the sea bass and simmer salted water flavored with a

1

sea bass, about

1

lb.

5

oz.

is 1

bay leaf

Several thyme leaves 6 tbsp. unsalted butter

2tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

1

small shallot, minced

% cup Vialone nano rice Vz

1

tbsp.

oil

chopped Salt

cup white wine flat-leaf

parsley

and peppercorns

almost cooked remove

liquid,

meat

and separate the

in small pieces.

it

leaves; heat to

butter

and the

Add

from the

by adding

is

When

it

liquid, reserving the

from the bones, cutting the

fish

skin,

and bones

bay

leaf

and

make a broth.

olive oil in a

make

it

a

few

Heat 4 tablespoons

pan and saute the Pour

evaporate.

in the

Cook

shallot.

wine and

the risotto

ladlefuls of the fish liquid as in the recipe

page 349 (finishing with hot water the rice

in lightly

Return the head,

the rice, stirring to toast.

turn up the heat to

it

few peppercorns.

to the cooking liquid along with a

thyme

FOR PERSONS

6

if

needed).

on

When

cooked turn off the heat and add the remain-

ing butter and parsley. Serve hot.

367

RISOTTO WITH HOP SHOOTS

RISOTTO D BRUSCANDOLI I

VENETO

Heat the

olive oil in a

parsley, garlic, Ya

bunch

1

cup

olive oil

chopped

flat-leaf parsley,

it 1

minced

garlic clove,

5

in

rice

shoots. Let

and

stir,

ring; a

pieces

on page 349, and wait before the rice

little

dente) taste for

At

6 cups broth (beef or chicken)

cook for

salt

is

at least 15

cook

raising the heat to

few minutes, then add the broth a

the liquid before adding more.

cups Vialone nano rice

little

at a

time as in

for the rice to absorb

Continue calmly finished

stir-

should be

(it

and add cheese, pepper, and

point turn off the heat, cover the pan, and

this

al

butter. let

the risotto rest for 2 minutes before serving.

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Ya lb. (1 stick)

a

the recipe

10 oz. tips of bruscandoli

(hop shoots; see note, page 264),

cleaned and chopped

Add the

minutes.

pan over medium heat and add the

and hop

unsalted butter, cut into pieces

and pepper

Salt

I

RISOTTO

RUSPANTE

Dl

VENETO

"FREE-RANGE” RISOTTO WITH GIZZARDS Simmer

1

2 tbsp.

chopped

parsley

flat-leaf

chopped

carrot,

1

2 cups dry white wine, such as Soave 10 oz. intestines, gizzards,

liver,

and

heart of a free-range chicken 1

1

and carrot

the celery, parsley,

Cover and cook

to cover.

chopped

celery stalk,

1

Clean the

hour.

the gizzards,

add

Add

rosemary.

intestines as

liver, heart,

to cover, then

at

and

you would

Cook

tripe.

intestines separately in water

to the vegetables with the

the rice

wine

in white

moderate heat for about

and cook the

bay leaf and

risotto as in the

on page 349.

recipe

bay leaf

sprig rosemary

2 cups Vialone nano rice

Chicken broth blended with beef broth

RISOTTO

Dl

SCAMPI

AGLI ASPARAGI

VENETO

RISOTTO WITH SHRIMP

AND ASPARAGUS Trim

the asparagus

peeler. Vi lb. 3

A

1

lb.

white asparagus

shrimp (with

shells)

1

carrot

medium

onion,

chopped

CONTINUED

368

stalks

Cut

and

and peel the

puree

Put the

inch of the

Strain the cooking liquid

stalks

in the reserved

reserving the shells.

1

Boil the remaining stalks in a

set aside.

lighdy salted water. aside.

with a vegetable

stalks

off the tips along with about

and

little

set

it

through a food mill and put the

cooking

Combine

liquid.

Shell the shrimp,

the heads

and

shells

of the

celery stalk

1

Bay leaf 6tbsp. unsalted butter Za

and add

olive oil

spoons butter

garlic clove,

minced

few minutes.

/a

cup white wine

2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley 3 tbsp.

Zi

liquid

add water

cup extra-virgin 1

1

shrimp with the carrot, half of the onion, leaf and

%

cognac

cups Vialone nano

rice

cup Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

and pepper

to cover. Boil

pan and cook the asparagus

Heat the

tips

and

rice.

Cook to evaporate. Add the asCook the risotto as in the recipe

on page 349 using the reserved

When

pepper.

re-

Add the shrimp,

has taken on color pour in the wine; add the

it

parsley and cognac.

paragus

table-

tips for a

add the

olive oil in a pot,

and brown.

garlic,

and bay

Strain this

Heat 3

to the asparagus liquid.

in a

maining onion and

and when

celery,

30 minutes.

the rice

is

broth. Taste for salt

nearly cooked

work

and

in the

remaining butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

RISOTTO

SCAMPI

Dl

ZUCCA

E FIORI Dl

MARCHE

SHRIMP RISOTTO WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS Heat the

olive oil in a

pan and cook

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

small onion, minced

1

1

oil

% cups Vialone nano rice V2 cup white wine 16 zucchini flowers 6 cups fish broth 1

lb.

wine and

the recipe

shrimp butter,

it

for 2 minutes.

evaporate.

let it

mens from

the onion until soft,

Add the Remove the pistils and stazucchni flowers. Cook the risotto as in

then add the rice and toast

the

on page 349, adding the zucchini flowers and

after

about

1

0 minutes.

and complete cooking the

Taste for

salt,

add the

risotto until the rice

is

tender.

shrimp

tbsp. unsalted butter

1

Salt

RISOTTO MARI

E

MONTI

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

SEAS AND MOUNTAINS RISOTTO This

is

a variant of the

shrimp risotto that

Venezia Giulia coast. With Olive 1

10

oz.

tsp.

chopped

oil

garlic

peeled and deveined shrimp 2 oz. porcini 1

Vi

mushrooms

cups Canaroli Zi

rice

cup white wine,

such as Pinot Grigio 6 cups fish broth

CONTINUED

mushrooms from Cadore,

its

is

typical of the

flavor reinforced by porcini

the rice, cooked

in fish

broth with

the addition, near the end of the cooking, of arugula, has a flavor that by

Heat the

now has been

olive oil in a

ring with a

forgotten by the

wooden spoon

for 2 to 3 minutes.

shrimp and mushrooms and brown. * toast

it

for a

Adjust for off

few minutes, sprinkling

salt

cook the

modern

saucepan and add the

and pepper.

When

risotto as in the recipe

Add

era.

garlic, stir-

Add

the rice

the

and

in the white wine.

the wine has cooked

on page 349. After

369

chopped arugula

2 tbsp.

(if

possible wild)

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

about 20 minutes add the arugula.

when it is

still

somewhat brothy and

cognac.

,

Turn stir in

off the rice

the butter and

s

dash cognac

1

Salt

and pepper

RISOTTO WITH BAKED SOLE, RISOTTO MONTELERA

PIEMONTE

SHRIMP, butter.

4 tbsp. unsalted butter 2 small onions, minced 1 Zt.

porcini

oz.

1

mushrooms, chopped Vi

cups Carnaroli

rice

6 cups chicken broth,

skimmed Vi

of any

fat,

2 sole fillets

cup dry spumante

7 oz. shelled Za

Heat

1

tablespoon of the butter in a large sauce-

pan and saute one of the onions, the mushrooms, and the rice. Continue cooking the rice with the broth as in the recipe

When

on page 349.

shrimp

cup dry white wine, such as Gari 4 oz. cognac

the rice

is

cooked

stir in

2

tablespoons of the remaining butter and the Parmigiano-

Arrange the

Reggiano.

boiling

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Za

AND HOLLANDAISE

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking dish with

Sprinkle with

sole in the

and pepper, pour

salt

prepared dish.

in the

and cover the pan with

a sheet of

for about 12 minutes.

Heat the remaining

aluminum 1

spumante,

Bake

foil.

tablespoon

pan and cook the remaining onion and

butter in a

shrimp; pour in the white wine, sprinkle in the cognac,

and

ignite carefully with a

match, to burn off the alcohol.

Meanwhile, make the sauce: Place a copper pot with For the hollandaise sauce: 2 large egg yolks Za 1

cup white wine

tbsp.

Za lb. (1 stick)

lemon juice

unsalted butter,

melted Salt

high sides on top of another pan

filled

with simmering

water. In this whisk the egg yolks, white wine, per,

and the lemon

juice.

Whisk

salt,

pep-

until thickened,

then

gradually whisk in the melted butter. in a serving dish, garnish with the

the sole

fillets;

Spoon the

risotto

shrimp mixture and

cover with the hollandaise sauce.

and pepper

RISOTTO NERO

TOSCANA

BLACK RISOTTO WITH CUTTLEFISH INK AND CHARD Clean the

cuttlefish, skinning

them and removing

the

bones, eyes, mouth, and intestines but setting aside at 1

lb.

cuttlefish

Extra-virgin olive 1

medium

oil

onion,

chopped

garlic clove,

chopped

least

lic. 1

%

lb.

Swiss chard

CONTINUED

370

one of the ink

Heat the

When

and cook

sacs.

olive oil in a pot

Clean well and cut

these begin to change color add the cuttlefish at

Clean and

low heat for about 10 minutes.

trim the chard, rinse, and chop into pan.

in pieces.

and cook the onion and gar-

Cook

for a

slices;

few minutes and add the

add

rice.

to the

After

2 cups Vialone nano rice

the rice has

Freshly ground black pepper

had time

utes before the rice

and

well, T>

1

carrot

eggplant

slice

like

1

A

few min-

or 2 of the ink sacs,

stir

serve, but not before sprinkling with freshly

Trim and

clean the carrot, eggplant, peppers, zucchini,

artichoke,

and asparagus

half the butter in a

time,

section of red pepper

and

zucchini

1

artichoke bottom

Heat

still

set

pan and saute the vegetables one

keeping them separate.

them

In a

aside.

and

let it

pan heat the

Add

slowly evaporate.

is

2tbsp. shelled fresh peas

at a

Also cook the peas olive oil

and 3

Add the wine

the rice

then cook as in the recipe on page 349.

2tbsp. unsalted butter

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

as needed, then cut into small

tablespoons of broth and cook the onion.

4 asparagus stalks

1

done add

cubes, keeping the different vegetables separate.

section of yellow pepper

1

is

it

SPRING RISOTTO

VENETO

1

the flavors, cook

ground black pepper.

RISOTTO PRIMAVERA

1

up

on page 349, using 6 cups of

water in place of the broth.

lightly salted

1

to pick

a risotto, as in the recipe

and

When

toast

it,

the rice

done add the cooked vegetables with the remaining

butter

and the cheese. Serve immediately.

oil

6 cups chicken broth

(skimmed 1

Ya

any

fat)

cup dry white wine (Soave,

1

of

medium onion

if

2

A cups Vialone

possible)

nano

rice

3 tbsp. Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

and pepper

RISOTTO RICCO ALLA PADOVANA

VENETO

RICH RISOTTO j

I

PADUA-STYLE Heat the

and cup

olive oil

celery stalk,

minced

Va 1

1

medium 1

onion,

minced

carrot,

minced

2 oz. chicken 2 oz.

duck

liver

CONTINUED

pot and saute the celery, onion,

olive oil in a

carrot.

Without

oil

giblets in a saucepan;

or butter

brown

meat pan

until

Add

the con-

to the vegetables, then

add the

the meats are almost completely done. tents of the

the meats and

add half the wine and cook

peas (or mushrooms), tomato sauce, marrow, and cloves,

and

taste for salt

a few minutes. ter

and

and pepper.

Cook this

at

low heat for

In another pot heat 2 tablespoons but-

toast the rice.

Add

the

meat sauce, pour

in the

371

2

oz.

chicken gizzards

remaining wine, and cook as in the recipe on page 349.

2 oz. turkey

2

Just before taking

pork

oz.

it

off the heat

stir in

and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

butter

the remaining

^

2 oz. chicken hearts 2 oz. sausage

cup wine

1

3

oz.

peas (or porcini mushrooms) 4

oz.

tomato sauce 2

marrow

oz.

A few cloves

A cups Vialone

2 1

nano

rice

4 tbsp. unsalted butter 6 cups hen or guinea hen broth Zi

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

and pepper

i

RITAGLI D PASTA (BLECS) I

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

!

HAND-CUT PASTA WITH CHEESE AND SAGE SAUCE This dish

Use 1

Zi

cups all-purpose plus

flour,

more as needed

dough about

Zi

is

typical of the Carnia area

the flour, cornmeal, as in the recipe Vs

cup cornmeal

near Austria.

and eggs

on page

to prepare a pasta

out to sheet

10.

Roll

it

inch thick (see page 212).

Cut

this in irregu-

lar pieces

and cook them

in lightly salted boiling

water

3 large eggs, beaten 7 oz.

4 Zi

smoked oz.

ricotta,

grated

grated aged cheese

cup unsaited

Drain and mix with the

until al dente. ricotta,

aged

cheese, butter, and sage.

butter, melted

2 tbsp. chopped sage

ROTOLO

D

I

PASTA VARIA

CON SPINACI FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

PASTA ROLL

WITH SPINACH Boil the potatoes, put

8

them through

combine the puree with the egg lb.

1

1

plus

1

potatoes

large egg yolk

ter, salt,

and

flour.

Knead

obtain a smooth dough.

a food mill, then

yolk, 2 tablespoons but-

as in the recipe

Roll out the

large egg, beaten

floured cloth to a thickness of

%

pQR PERSONS

inch.

on page 10

to

dough on top of a Meanwhile

boil,

3 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

% cup all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed 1

lb.

6

spinach

oz. ricotta

CONTINUED

drain,

a

in

pan and saute the spinach. Remove the pan from the

heat and add the egg, ricotta, and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

When

this is well

mixed spread

pasta evenly and then,

up

372

and chop the spinach. Heat the remaining butter

the cloth.

across the sheet of

it

somewhat like

rolling a strudel, roll

Tie up the ends with

string,

adding an-

Yi

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

and pepper

Salt

Cook

other length around the middle. salted boiling water to cover, leaving

it

20 minutes. Remove from thb'Water and

SAGNE ALLA FURESE

PUGLIA

LASAGNE

oil

2 garlic cloves, minced 1

small onion, minced

sausage meat

7 oz.

7 oz.

mushrooms

7 oz. fresh green Yi

MEAT SAUCE

IN

Add

olive oil in a

wine and

in the

pan and saute the

let it

and onion.

for about

Cook the sagne

salted water, drain,

Pour

Add the tomato

evaporate.

and simmer

salt to taste,

the pecorino.

garlic

mushrooms, and green beans.

the sausage,

45 minutes.

sauce,

Mix

in

(lasagne) in boiling lightly

and dress with the sauce. Serve

hot.

beans

cup white wine

lb.

1

J4

1

let cool.

For the wine use Trebbiano.

Heat the 2tbsp. extra-virgin olive

this in lightly

alone to cook for

tomato sauce

cups grated pecorino lb.

1

fresh lasagne Salt

SAGNE

E

FAGIOLI

ABRUZZO

PASTA WITH BEANS Use

the flour to prepare a pasta

on page 1

2

A cups

all-purpose flour,

plus

this

using

0,

Vz

cup water

out to a thin sheet (see page 212).

into

medium

1

minced minced

celery stalk,

minced

many

small

diamond

floured dish cloth to dry.

chopped

diavolillo (spicy chili

1

Yi

cups fresh

Add

pepper,

borlotti

4 1

1

Yi

oz.

the olive

oil

shapes. Set the pasta

and saute the onion, carrot,

the chili pepper;

when

on a

In an earthenware pan heat

and

basil.

these are cooked add

some

celery,

basil

see note, page 22) 1

Cut the sheet

-inch-wide strips then cut the strips unevenly to

obtain onion,

2 tbsp.

as in the recipe

oil

carrot,

1

1

dough

in place of the eggs. Roll

more as needed

3tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

1

beans

pork rind

prosciutto bone

water with the beans, pork rind, and prosciutto bone. After about 30 minutes skim off any fat and remove the rind and prosciutto bone.

Cut the pork rind and the

meat from the prosciutto bone

them

to the pot;

in small pieces

add the tomatoes.

and return

Meanwhile cook

cups peeled plum tomatoes

the pasta.

When

they are nearly cooked drain them and

Salt

add them

to the

beans and pork in the pan.

mixture

all

Cook

the

together for another 4 to 5 minutes, stirring.

Season with

salt,

then serve.

373

SARTU

Dl

RISO

CAMPANIA

RICE TIMBALE One must remember that rice

For the sauce: oz.

1

1

]4

pancetta

cups fresh shelled peas small onion, sliced

1

14

cup dry red wine, such as Aglianico

each sliced 1

2 tbsp.

(such

varied from place to place).

fillings

the cook at court or employed

into 8 sections

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

sur

Cook

tout,

2 large eggs, beaten

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley Salt

and pepper

Zi

7 oz. prosciutto crudo, diced

cooked meatballs (see page 105)

7 oz. fresh sausage, sliced

salame, sliced

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

to

and

pan heat the

lard

pan

and cook

Set aside portions

parsley.

sauce as follows:

add

to the pancetta mixture,

simmered over low heat spoons to

for

1

4 or 5 tablespoons

1)

which should then be

0 minutes; 3) 2 or 3 table-

finish off the timbale.

the sauce with as

Dilute what remains of

much water as needed to

of sauce and pour

it

obtain 3 cups

into a saucepan, together with the

Cook this at a moderate heat in a covered pot withit

even once for exactly 10 minutes.

the rice cool, then little

stir in

Let

the eggs, Parmigiano-Reggiano,

pepper, parsley, and

oven to 350°F. Grease a

salt to taste.

large,

Preheat the

deep baking dish that

is

9 inches in diameter and about 6 inches high with some of the lard, then sprinkle

it

with some of the breadcrumbs.

Put three-quarters of the cooked pressing to

make

it

rice into the dish,

adhere well to the sides and the bot-

At the center of this put,

tom.

first,

half of the slices of

mozzarella, half of the hard-boiled eggs, and half of the prosciutto.

Cover

this

with the meatballs, sausage,

salame, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Spread in

pancetta sauce. eggs,

and

Then add

prosciutto.

breadcrumbs and lard.

Bake

it

of the

rice

and

Sprinkle with the remaining

5 or 6 teaspoons of the remaining

for about

1

hour

until the

breadcrumbs are

beautiful golden color. Let this cool for

turn

all

the remaining mozzarella,

Cover with the remaining

reserved artichoke sauce.

374

sartu.

filling:

cup breadcrumbs

oz.

became

in a serving dish to pass at the table; 2) 6 or 7 tablespoons

a

4

to set atop everything

the Neapolitan dialect

In another

this artichoke

7 oz. mozzarella or provola

Zi

home (and such

cup lard

2 large hard-boiled eggs, sliced

7 oz.

in

the artichokes, garlic,

out stirring Zi

such that

the pancetta, peas, onion, and red wine in a

rice.

For the

“reviv-

doused

(it

origin, following the style

was an accessory

which

over low heat.

of

% cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice

was

heavily

other words, to

In

a noble

in

cooks were almost always of French

trimmed and

For the rice: 1

if

fillings,

the abundance of seasonings outweighed the quantity of rice

tbsp. lard

garlic clove,

chopped

a food for invalids

and could be rendered acceptable only

with meat sauce and combined with rich

else,

4 artichokes,

the robust gastronomy of Naples,

in

was looked upon as

ing”)

of the 1800 s), rice 1

1

out on a round plate and serve.

1

a

0 minutes then

SARTU

D ROSI I

ALLA MORCONESE

CAMPANIA

RICE TIMBALE butter

4

)

stick)

lb. (1

unsalted butter

Breadcrumbs 2 cups rice

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiafio Olive 1

lb.

1

oil,

for frying

zucchini, cut in disks lb.

mozzarella, sliced Salt

SBOMBATA

UMBRIA

For the pasta:

5%

in the butter

Heat

Vi

more as needed

Pinch of salt

inch of olive

oil in

stir

a

pan and

fry the zucchini

then a layer of zucchini, then mozzarella and Parmigiano-

Reggiano. Repeat the layers, using

and end with

Bake

a layer of rice.

all

of the ingredients,

for 15 minutes. Turn

out onto a serving plate and serve.

BAKED PASTA

PIE

8

FOR PERSONS

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking pan with

Use

the flour

as in the recipe

and eggs

on page

to prepare a pasta

dough

Roll out to a sheet (see

10.

page 212) and cut into somewhat large squares. set

them out

Use

the flour

recipe

to

dry on a

Boil

cloth.

flour,

more as needed

to prepare a pasta dough as in the make the pie dough; set one small dough aside. Roll out the larger piece of

and eggs

on page 10

portion of this to

make

to

a sheet

and use

bottom of the baking pan. two sauces and

a

little

Pinch of salt

For the sauce:

it

to line the sides

Pour into

this a little

pecorino then cover with some of

Continue making such

ers until the ingredients are

used up.

maining portion of dough and use

Bake

until

and

of the

the cooked pasta squares.

8 large eggs, beaten

1

rice in

and

Pour a layer of rice into the prepared pan,

until golden.

dough For the pie dough:

plus

dente, drain,

flour,

8 large eggs, beaten

cups all-purpose

al

and 2 tablespoons Parmigiano-Reggiano.

them, drain them, and cups all-purpose plus

5%

and sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Cook the

lighdy salted boiling water until

butter. Unsalted butter

2

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Grease a baking pan with

it

lay-

Roll out the re-

to cover the pan.

golden brown, about 25 minutes.

large cup of goose sauce

(see page 635) 1

large cup of giblet sauce (see page 281) 2

A cup

grated pecorino

375

SCHIAFFONI AL GUANCIALE

BASILICATA

PASTA WITH GUANCIALE For the wine use Trebbiano or Falanghina.

Cook 1

pasta (schiaffoni or

lb.

mezze maniche) 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

guanciale (or lardo, see

page

2,

or bacon), finely minced

Vi

chopped

cup white wine

2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley 1

tsp. Zi

al

dente. Meanwhile, in a saucepan

and saute

(or lardo or bacon)

oz.

garlic clove,

oil

a

and the

good part of the guanciale

When

garlic.

the garlic

oil

5/2

1

the pasta until

heat the olive

paprika (optional)

begins to brown add the wine and

Cut

let it

the remaining guanciale in strips

and add

pan, adding the parsley and paprika the last minute.

evaporate. it

to the

desired)

(if

Drain the pasta well and dress

it

at

in a

bowl with cheese and pepper, then pour the hot sauce over

it.

cup grated pecorino

Pepper

BUCKWHEAT SCIGHETT

PORRIDGE

6

FOR PERSONS

PIEMONTE

This preparation from the Valle Vigezzo near the Swiss bor-

4 cups buckwheat flour,

World that buckwheat flour was gradually supplanted by

more as needed

other cereals, most especially corn, which eventually re-

der plus

Milk (or Alpine cheese or minced lardo, see page 2)

is

truly ancient.

placed

it

was

only after the discovery of the

Salt

possible

water to a boil in a large pot,

lightly salted

made of copper, and pour

flour, stirring to avoid the salt

and cook

with a

New

entirely.

Bring 8 cups if

It

for about

wooden spoon.

in the

buckwheat

Add

formation of lumps.

40 minutes, Serve, as

is

stirring constantly

the popular tradi-

tion in the Valle Vigezzo, with milk or Alpine cheeses or

minced

SEDAN N ALLE OLIVE NERE E FUNGHI I

I

MARCHE

PASTA WITH BLACK OLIVES

AND MUSHROOMS Heat and

Extra-virgin olive 1

lb.

oil

mixed fresh mushrooms, finely sliced

garlic clove,

1

1

34

cups

pitted

minced

and chopped black olives

1

lb.

tubular pasta (such as sedanini) 34

376

cup grated pecorino

lardo.

a

little

garlic.

Cook and

olive oil in a

As soon

pan and saute the mushrooms

as they are

cooked add the

olives.

the pasta in lightly salted boiling water, drain,

toss with the sauce.

Add

pecorino and serve.

LOCAL TRADITION

SFOGLI This

a cardinal

is

technique

in Italian

These sheets of«homemade pasta

made

in

A

cuisine, the foundation for almost

common

to Emilia-Romagna,

all

fresh pasta.

known as

sfoglia, are

the traditional method of forming a well with the flour on a pastry board, and

adding eggs,

and a

salt,

little

water (according to

lore,

two

half eggshells’ worth) be-

fore working the ingredients together with a fork and then by hand to form a

dough. The eventual quality of the pasta

ball of is

kneaded. Flour

The

soft.

final

is

step

added

in

very small quantities to keep the dough from getting too

to use a rolling pin to create a sheet of

is

which depends on what sort of dish the pasta

SFORMATO

ORTAGGI

D!

IN

TEGLIA

CALABRIA

I

smooth

determined by how much the dough

is

is

dough

—

the thickness of

to be used for.

VEGETABLE TIMBALE Aside from this version, there are other ways of preparing it is known in Calabria). For example, it can be mushrooms or with wild artichokes. Another vari-

the tiedda (as Ya

cup extra-virgin 1

olive oil

cup roughly cubed

homemade breadcrumbs Vi

cup grated pecorino 1

1

2

lbs.

tsp. chili

broken-up bucatini pasta. The addition of

little

makes the tiedda more

this ingredient

flavorful.

pepper flakes

sible

4 or 5 large potatoes, in

thick rounds

medium

onion, sliced

Yi

ation of this recipe calls for the addition to the potatoes and

tomatoes of a

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Grease a baking pan

seeded, and finely chopped

1

with

tbsp. oregano

fresh plum tomatoes, peeled,

peeled and sliced

made

cup

basil leaves

Salt

earthenware) with olive

oil.

In a bowl

and

the breadcrumbs, cheese, the oregano,

Cover the bottom of the pan with a Sprinkle with

salt,

crumb

Over

mixture.

drizzle with olive

oil.

this

chili flakes.

layer of potatoes;

some of the bread-

put a few basil leaves, then

Repeat with another layer of

matoes, ending with the breadcrumb mixture and a

more

olive

from the

oil.

side,

crust forms

Add % cup

water, pouring

and bake for about

on the

pos-

layer of tomatoes.

and continue with a

place onion slices here and there; add

(if

combine

1

it

to-

little

in slowly

hour, or until a golden

surface. This dish

can be served hot

or cold.

377

S FOR MATO Dl RISO

AFFUMICATO

PIEMONTE

RICE Heat a

WITH SMOKED CHEESE

1

oil

small onion, chopped 1

% cups Arborio rice

Vi

cup dry white wine

6 cups boiling chicken broth 1

tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

smoked

6 oz.

wine has evaporated cook the in the recipe

When the

then pour in the white wine.

it,

Parmigiano-Reggiano.

rice with the broth as

When it is al dente stir in the

on page 349.

ter a high-sided

Add

pan and saute the onion.

olive oil in a

little

the rice, toast 2tbsp. extra-virgin olive

Preheat the oven to 425°F. But-

baking dish and add one third of the

cooked rice. Cover the layer of rice with half of the smoked provola.

Cover

this

with another third of the

add the remaining provola. Cover

provola, sliced

ing rice.

Flatten

and smooth the

with a sheet of aluminum

pan and place

move from

top.

Cover the mold

Place the dish in a larger

foil.

in the oven. Fill the larger

warm

inches of

then

rice,

with the remain-

this

pan with two

water and bake 15 to 20 minutes.

Re-

the oven, turn out onto a serving plate, and

serve hot, with the desired garnish.

SFORMATO FERDINANDEO

CAMPANIA

PASTA TIMBALE This dish

is

typical of Naples.

6

Locena

FOR PERSONS term

a Neapolitan

is

for a cut of veal that runs from the tip of the breast to the

For the meat sauce: 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

10

oz.

oil

tbsp. lard

veal locena (see note) 1

lb.

gallinella of

pork

shoulder.

Prepare a meat sauce: heat the olive

trachiole of pork (neck)

medium onion

1

1

bay

leaf,

pour

oz.

in the

finely

2),

minced

2 oz. prosciutto crudo, finely 1

basil leaf 1

1

sprig fresh Zi 1

lb.

minced

bay leaf

marjoram

cup red wine

tomato sauce Salt

CONTINUED

378

the meats at low

When the ingredients have colored

wine a

little

at a

time then slowly add

the tomato sauce with 2 cups hot water.

and cook

at

Test for

very low heat for several hours.

whole clove

lardo (see page

Brown

and marjoram.

heat, stirring often.

the oven to 375°F. 4

lard in a pot.

basil,

well, lb.

and

the meats, onion, clove, lardo, prosciutto crudo,

(pork tenderloin) 1

oil

Add

salt

Preheat

Grease the inside of a baking pan

with lard, and sprinkle in breadcrumbs. Use the ground

meat

to prepare meatballs the size of a small nut.

half the olive

on

oil

all sides.

mushrooms. the peas

in a

Heat the

olive oil in a

Heat the butter

Cook

in another

pan and cook to a

little

the mezzanelli in lighdy

salted boiling water until al dente, drain,

the meat sauce

well

pan and cook the

and add them, with the mushrooms,

of the meat sauce.

Heat

pan and brown the meatballs

and

toss with

and some Parmigiano-Reggiano. Arrange

a layer of the pasta in the prepared

pan with some of the

For the

mushroom-pea

filling:

Lard

meatballs,

Breadcrumbs ground meat

Zi lb.

Yu

oz.

1

dried

cup

olive

filling, slices

of egg, pieces of fior di

latte,

and more Parmigiano-Reggiano; cover with

more pasta and repeat

the -layering operation, ending

with a layer of pasta.

Sprinkle breadcrumbs over the

top and bake for about 40 minutes.

oil

mushrooms,

soaked and drained 2tbsp. unsalted butter peas, shelled

Vi lb.

lb.

1

mezzanelli

(or other short pasta) 1

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 2 large hard-boiled eggs, sliced 9

cheese, diced

oz. fior di latte

Salt

"APPETITE -BUSTER” SMACAFAM

SAUSAGE CASSEROLE

TRENTINO

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place a baking pan in the oven

|

and heat 4tbsp. unsalted butter 1

oz.

lardo (see page

2),

diced

2 oz. lucanica (fresh

pork sausages), thinly sliced 2 cups

plus 1

buckwheat flour, more as needed

cup cold pork broth

2tbsp. lard (or olive

oil)

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

E

PEPPERONCINO LAZIO

Heat 3 tablespoons butter

Add

bowl.

lard (or a fair

Zi

lb.

spaghetti

cup extra-virgin

olive

oil

2 garlic cloves, sliced 2 fresh or dried red

chili

peppers,

seeded and shredded 1

tbsp. finely

chopped

parsley

amount of

in the lucanica mixture, spreading

it

it

mixing Put a

well.

olive oil) in the

has melted pour

out and topping

it

with the remaining lucanica, grated cheese, and remaining butter.

Bake

The smacafam

for about

a nice

1

should be about

hour, by which time

brown

crust

it

Vi

inch deep.

should have

on the top and bottom.

SPAGHETTI WITH GARLIC, OLIVE OIL, AND HOT PEPPER Cook

the pasta in lightly salted boiling water.

and

chili

burn;

and

olive oil in a

peppers in the olive

when the garlic

discard.

is

At the

pan and saute the oil

garlic

without letting them

browned remove

it

and the

chilies

When the pasta is cooked drain it well and oil over medium heat, tossing and Cook about 1 minute and serve.

put in the pan with the

adding the parsley. flat-leaf

mix

baking pan, and heat in the oven. When

same time heat the 1

pan and add

in a

lucanica. Transfer to a

the flour and broth and

good piece of

formed

SPAGHETTI AGLIO, OLIO,

it.

and about half the

the lardo

Salt

379

SPAGHETTI

BAKED

SPAGHETTI AL CARTOCCIO

ABRUZZO

This dish,

is

IN FOIL typical of Chieti. For'the wine use Trebbiano

d’Abruzzo. 1

14

garlic clove

cup extra-virgin 4

oz.

10

Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a saucepan over low heat

olive oil

saute the garlic in the olive

shrimp, cleaned

oz.

browns add the seafood.

clams, shelled

when

7 oz. squid, cleaned 1

large

prawn

for every diner

Va

cup white wine

1

1

chopped

tbsp.

Chili

flat-leaf

pepper

and

let it

and

chili

ghetti in lighdy salted water;

and

pepper.

when

done, drain

just half

Spread a large sheet of

toss with the sauce.

foil

over a shallow baking dish and pour in the spaghetti mix-

parsley

Fold together the ends of the

ture. lb.

Add

Boil the spa-

and bake

foil to seal

flakes, to taste 1

garlic

reduce for a few more minutes.

the tomatoes, parsley,

plum tomatoes, chopped in pieces

soon as the

the liquid from the seafood has cooked away, add

the wine

lb.

as

oil;

After about 10 minutes, or

up

for several minutes, until the heat puffs

spaghetti

the pasta

is al

the

foil

and

dente.

Salt

SPAGHETTI AL GUANCI ALE

1

ABRUZZO

SPAGHETTI WITH GUANCIALE This simple dish

Cook lb.

1

spaghetti

the lard in a

2 tbsp. lard Va lb. 1

guanciale, diced

wine.

with

quickly prepared.

Keep

pan and cook the guanciale.

drying out too

tbsp. vinegar or white wine

is

the spaghetti in lighdy salted boiling water. Heat

When

much by

the spaghetti

this sauce,

it

from

sprinkling with vinegar or white is

done, drain

adding pecorino to

it

and

toss

it

taste.

Grated pecorino Salt

SPAGHETTI AL NERO Dl

SEPPIA

CALABRIA

i

SPAGHETTI WITH CUTTLEFISH INK This dish

is

typical of

Diamante and

Cirella.

Clean the squid, removing and setting aside the black 2 squid, weighing about 4 /a

cup extra-virgin

oz.

each

olive oil

2 garlic cloves 2 tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Dried Zi lb.

chili

pepper

plum tomatoes

%

lb.

spaghetti

ink sac in the center of the tentacles. (Alternatively, squid ink can be purchased in

to drain in a strainer.

cook the

As soon

garlic,

Cut the

fish stores.)

Heat the

most of the

as the garlic

and the ink

ring to blend.

olive oil in a

parsley,

browns remove

sacs, breaking

Salt

380

many

squid into strips and, after cleaning them, set them out

Add

and it

them with

the tomatoes

chili

pan and

pepper.

and add the squid a

spoon and

and

salt,

stir-

and cook

Cook the spaghetti in lightly salted boilwhen al dente. Pour some of the

over low heat.

ing water and drain

sauce into the bottom of aJbewl; add the spaghetti and

mix

well,

then add the remaining sauce and dust with

the remaining parsley.

SPAGHETTI AL TARTUFO NERO

MARCHE

I

I

SPAGHETTI WITH BLACK TRUFFLE Crush the of

1

'A

garlic clove

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

2 anchovy

fillets

cup tomato puree

Zi

1

lb.

spaghetti

its

maximum amount

garlic clove to extract the

flavoring.

Heat the

pan and cook the

olive oil in a

garlic until golden.

Add

them up with

add the tomato puree.

a fork;

the anchovy

sauce for a few minutes, adding the spaghetti until

with black

truffle;

salt

and break

Cook the Cook

and pepper.

dente and while

al

fillets

add the sauce and

still

very hot toss

parsley.

3 oz. black truffle, shaved Flat-leaf parsley,

Salt

chopped

and pepper

SPAGHETTI AL TONNO SICILIA

SPAGHETTI WITH TUNA This sauce, typical of Messina, can also be prepared with

canned tuna. To make

1

lb.

fresh tuna

chopped 1

lb.

flat-leaf

prepare a tomato sauce

add IOP2 ounces

(4

cups) and as soon as

fillet

of

canned tuna that has been completely drained and cut

4 cups tomato sauce 2 tbsp.

this variation,

oil

2tbsp. extra-virgin olive

parsley

cooked spaghetti Salt

it

is

at the right point

into

small pieces. Stir well, add chopped parsley and a chopped clove of garlic, and cook at low heat for 10 minutes.

Heat the

on it

olive oil in a

pan and cook the tuna

a golden color, then drain

in small pieces.

and when

it is

it,

season

it

with

until salt,

it

takes

and cut

Prepare a tomato sauce (see page 327)

nearly finished add the tuna and parsley.

Cook together

for

1

0 minutes

at

low heat and use

this

sauce on the spaghetti, making certain that each serving gets a quantity of tuna.

381

0

SPAGHETTI ALL’AM ATRICI AN A

LAZIO 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

Freda provides an enlightening explanation. This flavorful dish,

which many believe originated

pepper flakes

town

in

4 oz. guanciale 1 Zt.

From time immemorial the origin of this recipe, typical of Rome, has been the subject of heated debate. Secondino

onion, sliced

medium Chili

oil

SPAGHETTI WITH GUANCIALE SAUCE

cups tomato puree

a creation of Rome.

lb.

spaghetti

Romano Salt

a

came

into being

is,

on the contrary,

about a century ago

cook from Amatrice

of a

in

Rome

that give

is its

essential

the suburbs of

the sauce the special sweet-sour flavor that characteristic. this

name was

Rome

living in

sauce composed of guanciale and certain

tomatoes grown only

local

Grated pecorino

It

from the imagination

who designed 1

Amatrice, a pleasant

in

Lazio in the Alta Valle del Tronto,

inventor called

Its

later

reworked

it

“alia Amatriciana,” but

into “alia matriciana.” Thus,

the dish has nothing to do with spaghetti “in the style of Amatrice,” but rather spaghetti “in the style of a cook from Amatrice.” The recipe

is

the source of other disputes, such

as whether or not to use the onion and

Heat the

olive oil in a

pan and cook the onion and

pepper. Cut the guanciale in

make

acceptable to

if it is

dash of wine.

flavor the sauce with a

slices

When

small rectangles and add to the pan.

guanciale

is

well

and onion and to the

pan

browned remove

set

juices

them

aside.

and add

salt.

it

and the

Add

ing water until

al

Cook

the

pepper

sauce for

this

stir well,

1

and

the pasta in lightly salted boil-

dente, drain, and pour

quickly placing the

chili

the tomato puree

Cook

minutes then return the guanciale mixture, turn off the heat.

chili

then crosswise to

it

into the sauce,

pan back over the heat and

flavoring

with pecorino. Serve hot.

SPAGHETTI ALLA CARBONARA

LAZIO

SPAGHETTI WITH CARBONARA SAUCE Is

spaghetti alia carbonara an authentic Italian dish? One

school of thought traces 1

lb.

spaghetti

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 3

oz.

oil

guanciale (or pancetta), cut

in

strips

2 large eggs, beaten

CONTINUED

back to a Neapolitan recipe that

eggs. Another school attributes the recipe to the presence of

American diers

GIs in Italy at the

were

in

end of World War

II.

These

sol-

the habit of taking their daily rations to local

restaurants, where the cooks combined

them with

Italian

foods to create hearty “American-style” meals.

Cook

the spaghetti in lightly salted boiling water.

Meanwhile

382

it

supposedly (no details survive) called for cheese and beaten

in a large

pan heat the

olive oil

and cook the

A cup

Z

grated pecorino or

Parmigiano-Reggiano (or a

guanciale;

when

the heat.

Season the eggs with

well

it is

browned remove salt,

and Salt

a generous

amount of pepper

pan from

the

2 tablespoons cheese,

combination of both)

When

to taste.

the

and freshly ground pepper

pasta

cooked, drain and put

is

on

guanciale, heat

a

it

pan with the

in the

low flame, and add the eggs.

Mix

few seconds then remove from the heat, combine

for a

with the remaining cheese, mix again, and serve hot.

SPAGHETTI ALLA GRICIA

LAZIO

SPAGHETTI WITH GUANCIALE AND CHILI PEPPER This dish

is

If using, 1

small

chili

pepper

(optional)

finely.

4 oz. guanciale, in small dice

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

lb.

oil

spaghetti

Heat

and

ciale

typical of Rieti.

remove the seeds from the a

little

Cook the spaghetti in when al dente, and

chili.

and chop

chili

it

pan and saute the guan-

olive oil in a

boiling water, drain

lightly salted

toss with the

guanciale sauce along with pecorino. Serve hot.

Grated pecorino Salt

SPAGHETTI ALLA

POVER’UOMO

CAMPANIA

SPAGHETTI WITH FRIED EGGS This dish, “poor man’s spaghetti,”

Cook 1

14

lb.

spaghetti

cup extra-virgin

olive

oil

Small amount of lard 4 large eggs Salt

Pepper (optional)

Meanwhile, heat half of the

and

typical of Naples.

olive oil

and

lard in a

spaghetti

when

all

al

dente, pour

—not

it

overdone

their seasonings.

in a serving bowl,

—on

If desired

top of

add

a

pan

Drain the

fry the eggs just until sunny-side up.

place the eggs

with

is

the spaghetti in lightly salted boiling water.

it

little

and

together

pepper.

Serve immediately, while hot, making sure the eggs re-

main whole and each serving

gets

its

share.

383

SPAGHETTI ALLA PUTTANESCA

LAZIO

SPAGHETTI WITH ANCHOVIES, OLIVES, AND CAPERS This dish, typical of

Rome,

is

somewhat recent

a

invention,

related to the vogue for strong flavors. Literally 2 tbsp. unsalted butter 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 4 tsp. anchovy paste 6

oz.

black olives, pitted and sliced 1

and roughly chopped

tbsp. capers, rinsed

translates as spaghetti

Combine

1

1

tbsp.

chopped

lb.

spaghetti

flat-leaf

SPAGHETTI CACIO

slices

Meanwhile cook the spaghetti

E

1

PEPE

1

in

spaghetti

cup grated pecorino

(pecorino

(ground

lb.

Romano

tbsp. black

a mortar

if

and serve

is

when

the sauce

al

dente,

in lightly salted

and put

and sprinkle with

SPAGHETTI WITH PECORINO AND PEPPER This dish

is

typical of

Rome.

Cook the spaghetti in lightly salted boiling water, drain when al dente, reserving some of the cooking water, and pour into a heated serving bowl.

Toss the spaghetti

possible)

with the cheese and pepper, pour over a few tablespoons

of the cooking water, and mix well to thoroughly blend the ingredients. Serve hot.

SPAGHETTI ALLA COLATURA is

a preparation famously

in

in

Campania.

layers of sea salt

in

It

is

wooden

made

by the fishermen of Cetara, a town on the

a by-product of preserving anchovies by packing barrels;

out of which a liquid drips. This liquid,

from time to time

when

distilled,

potent fish sauce. Spaghetti, dressed with olive

and some colatura, makes for

384

Mix

hot.

LOCAL TRADITION

Colatura

in a serving

parsley.

best)

pepper

Salt

Amalfi coast,

the

the sauce for a few minutes to blend the

parsley

LAZIO

Zi

Add

and

browns

Turn up

and tomatoes.

flavors.

bowl.

oil, garlic,

as the garlic

stir

boiling water, drain in

olive

heat and

A few plum tomatoes, peeled and cut

As soon

saute.

olives, capers,

its title

the style of the prostitute.

saucepan the butter,

in a

anchovy paste and

add the

in

oil,

a hole

is

made

in

sauteed garlic and

a delicious yet simple dish.

them

the barrel

becomes translucent chili

—and

a

pepper,

SPAGHETTI

CON BIANCHETTI I

CALABRIA

SPAGHETTI WITH BABY ANCHOVIES rosamarina or nonnata or neonati) are baby

Nudilla (or

anchovies and sardines Yi

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

4 tbsp. nudilla (see note) 1

chili

pepper, chopped and ground lb.

1

spaghetti

in

—

also

Calabria are preserved

known as bianchetti

—which

with a great deal of

in salt

chili

pepper.

Heat the

olive oil in a pan,

and pour

fork to separate the tiny

Cook

remove the pan from the

in the nudilla, breaking

the spaghetti until

fish.

al

it

up with

Add

heat,

the tines of a

the chili pepper.

dente in lightly salted boiling

water, drain well, and toss with the nudilla. Serve hot.

SPAGHETTI CON TARFUTI ALLA SPOLETINA I

UMBRIA

SPAGHETTI WITH TRUFFLES Clean the

truffles,

wash under running water, rub with

medium-hard brush, and make 6 oz. black truffles 1

1

garlic clove

anchovy paste

oz.

4 tbsp. olive 1

lb.

oil

spaghetti

Grind the smaller pieces

in a this

IL

RANCETTO

UMBRIA

hidden

in the folds.

with the anchovy paste. in the top of a

Cook well,

CON

cup extra-virgin

medium

1

olive oil

and

onion, sliced

2 K3 cup Mi

tbsp.

tomato puree

chopped fresh marjoram 1

lb.

spaghetti

4 cup grated pecorino

J

in the olive oil

and warm

double boiler while the spaghetti cooks.

toss with the truffle sauce.

SPAGHETTI WITH GUANCIALE AND TOMATO SAUCE This dish, typical of Spoleto and Foligno, is

old

what the rancetto

Heat the

guanciale;

to be

of the title

at

longer.

water, drain

low

is

best

somewhat

if

made

with

rancid, which

is

means.

saucepan and saute the onion and

add the tomato puree,

30 minutes little

enough

olive oil in a

1

4 /2 0 z. guanciale, diced

Add

the spaghetti in lightly salted boiling water, drain

guanciale that 14

a

no peb-

mortar together with a small piece of garlic and mix

bles

Salt

SPAGHETTI

certain there are

heat.

Add

taste for salt,

the

Cook the spaghetti when al dente, and

and cook

marjoram and cook a

in lightly salted boiling

dress with this sauce,

adding pecorino before serving.

Salt

385

SPAGHETTI

CON

VONGOLE

LE

CAMPANIA

SPAGHETTI WITH CLAMS There

Va

cup extra-virgin 1

garlic clove,

olive oil

crushed

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 1

chopped

tbsp.

cooking

liquid.

Heat

cup

Va

olive oil in a

Salt

lb.

spaghetti

flat-leaf

parsley

and black pepper

pan and cook 2 cloves

of garlic;

remove the

liquid. Let

the sauce reach a boil then mix with the spaghetti,

garlic

adding parsley and pepper.

It

lb.

1

1

also a white version of this typical Neapolitan dish.

is

that version, open the clams, and strain and reserve the

In

2 lbs. clams

adding

pound

1

and add the clams and their can be made more flavorful by

of shelled telline.

wash the clams, put them

Carefully

tablespoon of the olive

oil,

in a large

serve their cooking liquid after straining In another

cheesecloth.

and add the

remove clam

garlic;

and pour

it

liquid.

sauce and

through a fine

when

the garlic begins to

al

well.

olive

brown

Add salt and moment add the clams to

in the tomatoes.

At the

let it just

it

pan heat the remaining

last

return to a boil.

the

the

Meanwhile cook

the spaghetti in lightly salted boiling water. Drain

very

1

In a few minutes the clams will open. Re-

high heat.

oil

pan with

cover the pan, and cook at

when

dente and add to the pan with the sauce, mixing

Complete the dish with parsley and

a grinding of

black pepper.

SPAGHETTI DEL M ARINAIO

MARCHE

MARINER’S SPAGHETTI Clean and

oz.

fresh anchovies 7 oz.

Zi

1

1

2 tbsp.

mussels

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

small onion, sliced

garlic clove, slivered

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

2 salt-cured anchovies 1

1

tsp. capers, rinsed

diavolillo (spicy chili pepper,

see note, page 22), chopped Va

cup white wine

2ft cups peeled plum tomatoes 1

lb.

spaghetti Salt

386

fillet

the anchovies, then cut

Open the Heat the

per; slowly

pan and saute the onion. Add the

little

Brown

When

and

chili

pep-

cook together, adding the pieces of fresh an-

chovies then a liquid.

in small

their beards.

mussels, reserving and straining their liquid. olive oil in a

garlic, parsley, salted anchovies, capers,

this

later the

mussels and their strained

mixture, then add the wine and

the wine has evaporated

simmer for about 30 minutes.

Cook the pasta in lightly

pan with the sauce, tossing

the cooking.

salt.

add the tomatoes and

salted boiling water until very al dente. to the

them

Scrub the mussels and remove

pieces. 4]4

well

Drain and add

and completing

WHOLE-WHEAT SPAGHETTI WITH ANCHOVIES AND BREADCRUMBS

SPAGHETTI NERI CON LA MOLLICA

The type of pasta traditionally used to make this dish, known

MOLISE

as zengarielle, Zz 1

medium 4

cup extra-virgin

ditional dish for

salt-cured anchovies,

boned and rinsed

Heat half the

A hunk of stale bread,

crumbled 1

Christmas

olive oil in a

the anchovies

into pieces (about Zz cup) lb.

brownish vermicelli, a result of the use of

Zengarielle flavored with olive

onion, in very thin slices oz.

is

dark grains, which have more fiber and thus are healthier.

olive oil

and

little

and anchovies were a

tra-

pan and saute the onion.

Add

water and cook for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile heat the remaining

olive oil in another

pan

whole-wheat spaghetti

and fry the bread 2 tbsp.

a

oil

Eve.

chopped

flat-leaf

until

it is

golden and crunchy.

Boil

parsley

the spaghetti until

al

dente, drain,

and

toss with the an-

chovy sauce and parsley and sprinkle with breadcrumbs as

SPAGHETTI TAGLIUZZATI

CON ZUPPA

D

I

ARAGOSTA SICILIA

I

I

you would

for grated cheese.

SPAGHETTI AND LOBSTER Heat the

olive oil in a

pan over low heat and cook the

onions until golden; add the tomatoes. Za

5 1

1

medium

medium 3

A

1

lb.

olive oil

onions, diced

plum tomatoes, peeled or in chunks lbs.

15 minutes, then

stir in

Add

creamy mixture.

Add

chili

chopped

in

Cook,

cup warm water

the lobster with

until

form

a

all its shell.

enough warm water opaque.

stirring,

to

to cover

When the lobster is

half

pepper flakes

cooked remove the meat.

flat-leaf

1

the chili pepper and

and cook the lobster fresh lobster, cut

Pinch 2 tbsp.

cup

it

from the pot and cut

Chop

the

it

meat and return

open it

to

remove

to the sauce;

parsley

spaghetti, broken in pieces

add the

parsley.

boiling water until

Cook al

the spaghetti in lightly salted

dente and toss with the sauce. Let

Salt it

rest 5

minutes before serving to blend the

flavors.

"PRIEST STRANGLERS” STRANGOLAPRETI

1

LOMBARDIA

GREEN GNOCCHI IN BUTTER AND SAGE SAUCE While typical of the area of Bergamo, this dish

is

widespread

throughout the former territory of the Venetian republic. For the pasta: 1

Zz lbs. stale

bread

2 cups milk

CONTINUED

Soak the bread

in the milk for at least

an hour.

Parboil

the spinach or chard in lightly salted water, drain,

chop.

Combine

add the egg

yolks,

and

the bread with the spinach or chard,

and pass the mixture through a food

387

-

10

Zi

oz.

spinach or chard

mill.

2 large egg yolks

nutmeg,

Place

cup all-purpose flour

to

Pinch grated nutmeg

cook

Grated bread, Salt

if

needed

form

a

board and knead

Add

in the flour.

an$ peeper, and grated bread, if necessary, smooth dough. Shape into gnocchetti and

a

soon

in lightly salted boiling water; as

remove with

and pepper

on

it

salt,

a slotted

spoon and put

as they float

in a dish, sprinkling

with butter, cheese, and sage leaves. Serve hot.

For the sauce: 2tsp. unsalted butter, melted Zi

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 2 tbsp. chopped sage leaves

"PRIEST STRANGLERS” j

STRANGOLAPRETI

2

TRENTINO

I

GREEN GNOCCHI IN BUTTER SAUCE Soak the bread drain.

4 stale

rolls, Zi

cut

in

pieces

cup whole

milk,

chop. flour to

heated to lukewarm

salted water to a boil 1

lb.

spinach or chard

plus (1

to

drop

When

dress with butter

and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

All-purpose flour,

cup

and use a spoon

of the dough. 2 large eggs, beaten

Zi

30 minutes; squeeze

in the milk for

to

Cook the spinach or chard, squeeze dry, and Combine the bread, spinach, eggs, and enough make a soft but firm dough. Bring lightly in

lumps

the gnocchetti float, drain

and

more as needed

stick) unsalted butter,

melted 4 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

STRASCINATI

CON LA MENTA BASILICATA

PASTA WITH MINT This dish, typical of Tito,

is

the white version; you can

make

it

red by adding 2 or 3 dried sweet peppers. For the pasta: 4 cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed

Use

dough

the flour to prepare a pasta

on page

10, using

Cut the dough

Zt.

cup water

into sections

as in the recipe

in place of the eggs.

and

roll

them out

to

form

Salt

strips;

For the sauce: 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

CONTINUED

dough on

the

cinati, as in

1

-inch pieces. Place a piece of

work surface and

the

name

stretch the center

the floured

( stras

of the recipe) to form long ovals,

sort of like stretched-out orecchiette.

on

388

cut the strips into

work surface then cook

Let the pasta dry it

in lightly salted

tbsp. each unsalted butter

1

2),

minced

garlic clove,

minced

and lardo (see page 1

2tsp.

pepper flakes (optional)

chili

Fresh mint leaves

STRASCIN ATI

GRANO SARACENO

Dl

PUGLIA

While the pasta

1

A cups plus

buckwheat flour, more as needed

cooking, saute

is

add some

chili

pepper

2 tbsp. milk

Use

on page

1

0,

1

Cook

briefly.

1

lb.

after a

until light

few minutes add the oil in a

stras-

pan and add

golden and add the tomatoes

Drain the zucchini and pasta when

in

rounds

the pasta

cup

olive oil

with the ricotta and

is al

as in the

cup water with

into strascinati as in the recipe

Separately heat the olive

cinati.

Vz

a pot of lightly salted water to a boil

and add the zucchini;

and cook

garlic clove,

putting

leaves.

adding the milk and

and form

the egg. Roll out

the garlic.

Va

A moment before

and egg to prepare a pasta dough

the flours

large egg

cleaned and cut

float.

the ingredients for

BUCKWHEAT PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI

6 oz. zucchini,

1

flakes.

on the pasta add the mint

the sauce

on page 212. Bring cup all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

1

all

the sauce except the mint until the garlic takes color, then,

recipe 2

cooked when they

boiling water; the strascinati are

dente,

combine with the sauce, and season basil.

Serve immediately.

crushed

plum tomatoes,

peeled and cubed 5/z

oz. ricotta

Basil leaves

Salt

STRENGOZZI PASTA STRENGOZZI ALLA SPOLETINA

UMBRIA

WITH GARLIC, CHILI, AND TOMATOES Use

the flour to prepare a pasta

on page For the pasta: 2

cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

1

0,

using

%

cup water

dough

out a Me-inch-thick sheet (see page 2 1 2) in

narrow

the garlic

Heat the

strips.

and

chili

pepper.

as in the recipe

in place of the eggs. Roll

Cut the sheet

.

olive oil in a

Add

pan and cook

the tomatoes and,

when

Salt

these are cooked, the parsley. For the sauce: 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

al

Cook the

strengozzi until

dente in boiling lightly salted water, drain, and com-

bine with the sauce.

2 garlic cloves 1

12 oz. 2 tbsp.

chili

pepper

plum tomatoes, peeled

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

389

2 1

"PRIEST-CHOKERS” j

STROZZAPRETI

1

CAMPANIA

WITH MEAT SAUCE Mix

the flour and semolina together

surface. 2

34

cups all-purpose plus

flour,

Form

on a clean work

and add the

lard

and

Work together with the flours, slowly adding enough warm water to obtain a soft dough. salt to taste in

more as needed

214 cups semolina flour

Break off 2/i

a well in the center

the center.

bits

of the dough and shape them into fin-

oz. lard

ger-size cylinders.

Neapolitan meat sauce

press

(see page 539)

them

Cut these

against a fork.

of boiling salted water until

Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving

into inch-long pieces,

Cook the pasta in al

and

a large pot

Drain and toss

dente.

with the sauce and sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano

Salt

to taste.

|

STROZZAPRETI

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

"PRIEST-CHOKERS” WITH SALSIFY SAUCE These “priest chokers,” typical of

Forli,

get their

name for many

their white color, like that of priests’ collars. Like so

For the pasta: 2/3 cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed 1

large egg Salt

cucina povera dishes there was originally no trace of an egg in

the dough:

was just flour, water, and

it

all

to ease

4 tbsp. unsalted butter 7 oz. pancetta, diced

“choking”). Wine, in

oz.

in

were

the throat and cause a

in-

bit of

and meat were the ingredients used

of the salsify plant.

The shape of the strozzapreti

does the sauce. Among the most commonly encoun-

boiled lischi (see note),

chopped (may substitute Swiss chard leaves) 1

lischi,

the country. Lischi, also known as barba di frate, are the

young leaves varies, as

4

and served with

digestion (the original strozzapreti

its

deed heavy enough to stick For the sauce:

salt

homemade sauce. This is a classic recipe from nineteenthcentury Romagna only slightly revised and altered, most of a

cup dry red wine, preferably Sangiovese di Romagna

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

tered are sauces based on sausage, meat sauce, or herbs.

Use

the flour

and egg

to prepare a pasta

dough

recipe

on page

egg.

Roll out a large sheet (see page 212)

10,

into strips, then roll these with the

Cook

water until

and

dente, drain,

and cut

it

palms of your hands

into vermicelli about 4 to 6 inches long.

the middle of each one. al

as in the

adding 3 tablespoons water with the

Make

a knot in

in lightly salted boiling

rinse.

Heat

1

tablespoon

of butter in a pan over low heat and saute the pancetta.

Add

the

lischi (or

the chard)

the wine has evaporated

add the

and the wine. strozzapreti

When

and the

rest

of the butter, and toss to heat. Sprinkle with Parmigiano-

Reggiano and

390

serve.

|

SUPPA QUATTA

1

SARDEGNA

BAKED BREAD AND CHEESE WITH BROTH Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the bread in thick

and the cheese 12

oz.

peasant-style bread

slices

pan

In a large baking

in thin ones.

arrange alternating layers of bread and cheese, ending

12 oz. young pecorino or

Cover with the broth.

with a layer of cheese.

Bake

smooth-texture cheese

for 2 cups broth of mixed

(lamb

meats

20 minutes. Serve hot

TACCONCELLE

1

MOLISE

the flour

recipe

was cooked

10.

in.

it

into

dough

to prepare a pasta

medium-size squares.

made

with pecorino and a good sauce (veal,

meat sauce,

as in the

Roll out a sheet to ‘/4-inch (see page

Cook

tacconcelle in lightly salted boiling water, drain,

Grated pecorino recipe mixed

and eggs

on page

2 1 2) and cut

more as needed 4 large eggs

1

it

PASTA SQUARES WITH MEAT SAUCE Use

3 cups all-purpose flour,

made

pan

indispensable)

is

plus

in the

these

and

toss

of mixed meats

lamb, pork) without tomato.

without tomato (see page 635) Salt

TACCONCELLE CON SANPIETRO

MOLISE potato,

1

chopped

plum tomato, seeded and chopped 1

1

ripe

medium

onion,

chopped

celery stalk,

chopped

1

PASTA SQUARES WITH JOHN DORY Mix

simmer

make

fish.

John Dory

(orata),

about 3/2

for

move

the fish

from the broth and

to the broth

and then use

it

30 minutes to

Simmer it

set aside;

to

gently for

whole.

add the

cook the

Reolive

tacconcelle

(small squares of homemade pasta; see preceding recipe).

cleaned

lb.

add the

lbs.,

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

a broth, then

about 20 minutes, being careful to keep

oil 1

1

the vegetables in a soup pot, then add water to

cover. Bring to a boil, then

oil

tacconcelle (see above)

Cook them

until they float to the surface, a sign that

they are cooked. Serve the pasta sprinkled with pecorino; serve the fish separately.

Grated pecorino Salt

391

TAGLIATELLE AGLI STRIDULI

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

TAGLIATELLE

WITH HERB SAUCE This

same sauce can be used on manfrigoli

or quadrucci

(see page 171), diluting the sauce with broth and water. 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

1

oil

Striduli are small herbs gathered in the wild. You can substi-

carrot, finely

chopped

tute a mix of your favorite herbs, chopped.

medium

onion, finely

chopped

Heat the

1

celery stalk,

chopped

carrot, onion, celery,

1

Zi Zi

cup diced pancetta

cup

striduli (see note)

2 or 3 tbsp. tomato paste, diluted in Za

IO /2

cup water

Cook

at

When this

and pancetta.

has browned add the ture.

pan over low heat and saute the

olive oil in a

striduli

low heat

Meanhandmade

until the sauce reduces.

while prepare the pasta, which should be

page 397). Boil

tagliatelle (see

oz. tagliatelle

until al

dente and drain.

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano striduli sauce,

mixture

and the tomato paste mix-

in lightly salted water just

Toss the

with the

tagliatelle

adding cheese to serve.

Salt

TAGLIATELLE TAGLIATELLE AL RAGU

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

WITH MEAT SAUCE When peas are

in

season, they can be added to this typical

Bolognese meat sauce at the end of 2 tbsp. unsalted butter 1

1

Heat the butter and lard

in a

saucepan

(if

possible earth-

enware) over low heat. Slowly saute the celery, carrot,

carrot, finely

chopped

and onion

onion, finely

chopped

and pepper, and cook

medium

oz.

pork,

ground

4 oz. veal, ground oz.

cooking. For the wine

its

Romagna.

chopped

6

4

di

celery stalk, finely 1

1

tbsp. lard

use Sangiovese

chicken breast, finely chopped Zi

10 oz.

tbsp.

tomato paste

homemade egg

tagliatelle

let it

for a

1 V*

spoon and using the

When

the meats,

Add

the sauce

at

very low heat with the pan

is

the meats.

almost ready cook the

tagliatelle

Cook

dente, drain carefully, and pour

(see page 397)

with the meat sauce.

which

392

and pepper

will

wooden

up

tines of a fork to break

the pasta just until

it

in the

pan

to

mix

Add a little Parmigiano-Reggiano,

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

salt,

the wine

hours, stirring often with a

in boiling lightiy salted water. al

Add

few minutes.

evaporate, then add the tomatoes and tomato

Continue cooking

covered for about

plum tomatoes, peeled 1

12 oz.

cup dry red wine

and

paste.

30 minutes.

for about

help adhere the sauce to the pasta.

TAGLIATELLE AL RAGU Dl PICCIONE

VENETO

I

I

TAGLIATELLE SQUAB SAUCE

IN

Heat the

Add For the sauce:

%

cup extra-virgin

medium

1

1

onion,

boned squab, 9

3 oz. lean

2/i 1

minced

celery stalk, mincefi 1

2

olive oil

oz.

ground pork

oz.

white wine

small sprig rosemary

olive oil in a

pan and cook the onion and

Add

and pork.

the squab

mary, and tomatoes, and cook for 30 minutes. the rosemary

and

let

a pasta

the

dough

dough

and eggs

on page

page 212) and cut out

Cook them

page 397).

the flour

as in the recipe

(see

Remove

the sauce rest 30 minutes before

Use

preparing the pasta.

celery.

the white wine, rose-

to prepare

10. Roll

out

tagliatelle (see

in lightly salted boiling water;

drain well and toss with the sauce, adding Parmigiano-

Reggiano.

plum tomatoes, peeled

For the pasta: 2 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

more as needed

3 large eggs, beaten

3

/ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

TAGLIATELLE ALLA REGGINA

CALABRIA

TAGLIATELLE WITH ZUCCHINI, ROASTED PEPPERS, AND TOMATOES Heat the

olive oil in a

garlic cloves. 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

oil

small onion, sliced

to the pan.

the sauce

2 garlic cloves it,

and

is

pan and saute the onion. Add the

Add the Salt

zucchini, peppers,

and tomatoes

and pepper and continue cooking

done.

Cook the

pasta until

toss with the sauce, pecorino,

al

until

dente, drain

and oregano.

6 oz. zucchini, cleaned and diced 6 oz. roasted peppers,

peeled and cut 6 oz.

in

strips

plum tomatoes, and chopped

peeled, seeded,

12

oz.

homemade tagliatelle (see page 397)

2 tbsp. grated pecorino 1

tbsp.

chopped oregano Salt

and pepper

393

TAGLIATELLE ALLA ROMAGNOLA

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

TAGLIATELLE WITH ROMAGNA-STYLE MEAT SAUCE This dish

Use For the pasta: 2/3 cups all-purpose flour,

more as needed

plus

4 large eggs, beaten

recipe

and eggs

on page

and cut

it

Romagna.

typical of

is

the flour

in strips (see

sauce: heat the olive rot, celery,

Salt

to prepare a pasta

10. Roll

dough

page 397).

oil in

Prepare the meat

a saucepan

and saute the

1

0 minutes add wine, and as soon as

For the sauce:

about

3tbsp. olive

add the tomato puree and cook

carrot,

minced

Cook

1

1

celery stalk, minced

and put

small onion, minced

add Parmigiano-Reggiano.

oz.

at

taste.

it,

After

evaporates

it

low heat for

1

hour.

the tagliatelle in lightly salted boiling water, drain,

1

4

car-

and onion. Add the pancetta and brown

then add the other meats. Salt and pepper to

oil

as in the

out a thin sheet (see page 212)

in a serving bowl; toss with the

meat sauce and

pancetta, diced

4 oz. ground beef

4

oz.

ground pork

h cup dry white wine y

4 1

A

oz.

tomato puree

cups grated ParmigianoReggiano Salt

and pepper

TAGLIATELLE COL FINOCCHIO SELVATICO

CALABRIA

TAGLIATELLE

WITH WILD FENNEL Put the

shallots, garlic,

and fennel

in

an earthenware

pan; add the pancetta, parsley, and olive 4 shallots, minced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 bunches of wild fennel,

and pepper.

until the sauce has tagliatelle

cooked

reduced by

until al

half.

water; add cheese 6 oz. pancetta, diced

tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

Extra-virgin olive 1

lb.

oil

homemade tagliatelle (see page 397)

Grated pecorino Salt

394

and black pepper

Use

at

Add

salt

low heat

the sauce

on

dente in lightly salted boiling

cleaned and chopped

1

oil.

Cover with water and cook

and serve

hot.

TAGLIATELLE

TAGLIATELLE

WITH BABY SQUID

CON CALAMARETTI

MARCHE

Heat the pepper

2tbsp. extra-virgin olive garlic clove,

1

chili

1

IOK2

oil

Add

and

chili

little

at a

garlic

the squid and, a

Cook until the wine has completely evapAdd a little salt and parsley. Cook the taglia-

time, the wine.

minced

orated.

pepper, diced

oz.

pan and saute the

olive oil in a

until fragrant.

telle in

small squid

boiling lighdy salted water. Drain

and

toss with

the sauce at high heat.

cup dry white wine

Zi

(preferably Verdicchio) 2 tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

12 oz. tagliatelle (see page 397) Salt

TAGLIATELLE

I

CON FAGIOLI

1

MARCHE

TAGLIATELLE

WITH BEANS This dish

is

common among

quite

local

peasants since

it

uses leftover beans cooked with pork, or stewed beans, to 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

sauce homemade

oil

1

Vi

cup diced pancetta

medium

onion, thinly sliced

tagliatelle.

The tagliatelle should be of me-

dium thickness. The beans can be fresh or dried and may

cup diced prosciutto crudo

Vi

require being soaked for a period of time; the beans

will

thus

require differing cooking times and also different quantities of water.

1

1

carrot, thinly sliced

1

olive oil in a

plum tomato, seeded and chopped

prosciutto

cup leftover cooked beans

beans and

1

1

Heat the

celery stalk, thinly sliced

lb.

ripe

tagliatelle (see

Salt

the onion, carrot,

page 397)

low heat

and pepper

pan over low heat and add the

and pancetta. Saute

salt

and

celery.

and pepper.

until the

until golden,

Let the sauce cook over

and

down and the Cook the taglia-

beans begin to break

sauce assumes a creamy consistency. telle in

then add

Add the tomato, then the

boiling lightly salted water until al dente, drain,

toss with the sauce in a bowl.

It is

best to wait a few

minutes before serving.

TAGLIATELLE D

1

PAPARDURA SICILIA

1

TAGLIATELLE WITH SQUASH BLOSSOMS Heat the broth

from the Zi

cup chicken broth 1

pinch saffron

CONTINUED

to boiling

heat, cover,

and add the

and let steep

saffron.

for 5 minutes.

and chop the squash blossoms. Heat the large

Remove Clean

olive oil in a

pan and saute the squash blossoms and onion

golden.

Add

the saffron broth,

salt,

until

pepper, and red

395

pepper

15 squash blossoms 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

medium

Pinch

onion,

oil

it

Cook

minced

pepper flakes

chili

flakes.

When

down

the sauce has cooked

pass

through a sieye aryj whisk in the egg yolks and pecorino. the pasta until

denje^ drain well, and dress

al

with the sauce.

2 large egg yolks Zi 1

lb.

cup grated pecorino

tagliatelle (see

Salt

TAGLIATELLE

page 397)

and pepper

BROCCOLI

E

NERI COI CICCIOLI

CALABRIA

TAGLIATELLE |

WITH BROCCOLI Cook the broccoli crisp-tender.

10

oz. broccoli,

in boiling lightly salted water just until

Meanwhile, cook the pasta

in lightly

Drain the broccoli

salted boiling water until al dente.

trimmed and chopped

and pasta and mix 1

lb.

Pork

tagliatelle (see

page 397), broken up

ciccioli (see note,

Hot

chili

page

chili

in a serving

bowl with

ciccioli

and

pepper.

12)

pepper flakes Salt

TAGLIATELLE

E CECI

CON PEPERONI SECCHI

CALABRIA

TAGLIATELLE AND CHICKPEAS

WITH DRIED PEPPERS This dish

is

typical of Mottafallone.

Soak the chickpeas overnight then cook them 7 to 10 oz. dried chickpeas

Bay leaves 7 to 10 oz.

homemade tagliatelle (see page 397)

in a terra-

cotta

pan

Cook

the tagliatelle in boiling lightly salted water, drain,

and add

in water, salt,

and bay leaves

to the chickpeas.

Heat the

until tender.

olive oil in a large

saucepan and add the peppers. Immediately add the 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

tagliatelle 4 or 5 dried peppers,

seeded and

thinly sliced

serve

mixture,

stir

well with a

wooden spoon, and

warm.

Salt

TAGLIATELLE PASTICCIO

IN

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

TAGLIATELLE PIE Butter a glass deep-dish pie plate. plus

Zi lb. (2 sticks)

softened to

unsalted butter,

1

the flour,

1

stick

prepare a pasta dough as in the recipe on page 10. Set

room temperature this aside to rest for

CONTINUED

396

Use

tablespoon of the butter, the wine, and eggs to

1

full

hour, covered, in a cool spot.

3

cups all-purpose

14

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Meanwhile cook the taglia-

flour,

more as needed

plus

cup dry white wine 1

large egg yolk,

lb.

egg,fagliatelle

2 large eggs plus

al

At the same time melt 2 tablespoons of the but-

dente. ter in a

and drain when very

boiling water

telle in lightly salted

pan and add

to this the drained tagliatelle. Stir in

beaten

3 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water, the cream, the 1

1

14

remaining butter, and cheese. Cook

cups heavy cream

few seconds

6 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

two

parts,

medium

at

this, stirring, for a

Divide the dough into

heat.

one larger than the other, and

roll

these out to

Silt

form

disks.

Use

Add

the larger disk to line the pie plate.

and cover with the remaining disk of dough,

the tagliatelle

crimping the edges to form a braid.

Bake

30

for about

minutes, until golden.

LOCAL TRADITION

TAGLIATELLE Tagliatelle are

story that

about 6 inches

made

in

length and about Vi inch

Mastro Zafirano, cook to Giovanni Bentivoglio

tain

false. Artusi said,

IN

seem more

like

PIEMONTE

Use

the flour

and 3 eggs

the recipe on page

more as needed

1487

—

a story that

is

completely

and,

when served

that way,

TAGLIATELLE EGG SAUCE

IN

2/3 cups all-purpose flour,

in

who prepared them

kitchen leftovers.

TAGLIATELLE SALSA D’UOVO

plus

width. According to one

"Short accounts and long tagliatelle,” because short noodles only

attest to the ineptness of the person

they

in

the rounds during the 1930s, tagliatelle had been invented by a cer-

Knead

it

well, roll

tagliatelle. Boil

1

it

them

to prepare a pasta

dough

as in

0 (using more water as needed)

.

out not too thin, then cut into wide

While the

in lightly salted water.

5 large eggs

tagliatelle

cook put the yolks of the 2 remaining eggs

in

3 anchovies, boned, rinsed, ,

and chopped

in

pieces

% cup cubed mozzarella 14 lb. (1 stick)

unsalted butter Salt

a

bowl with the anchovies and mozzarella; mix thor-

oughly.

Melt the butter

gliatelle are al

dente, drain

in a large pan.

When

them and put them

with the butter over low heat.

Stir in the

the ta-

in the

pan

egg mixture

along with a few tablespoons of the pasta cooking water,

397

and when the mozzarella begins form

and serve

TAGLIATELLE NERE ALLE SEPPIE GROSSE

VENETO % cups all-purpose flour, more as needed

plus

hot.

„

bowl

s

BLACK TAGLIATELLE

WITH CUTTLEFISH Use

the flour and eggs to prepare a pasta

recipe 1

and the eggs

to melt

a cream, transfer' the tagliatelle to a serving

on page

10,

dough

adding the ink sac and

1

as in the

tablespoon

water with the eggs.* Roll the dough out and cut to the

measure desired. Hang up the

tagliatelle to dry.

Pre-

2 large eggs, beaten

pare the sauce: Heat 3 tablespoons of the butter in a pan cuttlefish ink sac

1

and saute the Yz

cup chopped shallots

when toes,

2 garlic cloves, peeled lb.

1

large cuttlefish, cut Ya

3 Yz

in

pieces

cup white wine

oz.

tomato puree

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

SCAMPETTI

E

it

and

garlic,

Add

turns golden.

removing the

MARCHE

and

salt

water, drain

the sauce.

and pepper. Cook slowly over low heat

Cook the

until done.

tagliatelle in lightly salted boiling

them but not completely, and add them

Add

the remaining butter

medium

10

oil

onion, finely

chopped

2 garlic cloves,

chopped

oz. squid, Ya

cut

in

Reggiano and cook for a few minutes.

THIN TAGLIATELLE WITH SQUID AND SHRIMP Heat the

olive oil in a

pan over low heat and saute the

small pieces

cup dry white wine,

the squid

Pour

and cook

in the

until

wine and

it

let it

diluted tomato sauce (in the

nice rosy color). will

cook

Near

in 3 minutes.

the

telle;

cups tomato sauce diluted with a little warm water Ya

10 1

lb.

oz.

cooked 1

398

small shrimp

thin tagliatelle (see

tbsp.

chopped

page 397),

until al

flat-leaf

dente

parsley

it

brown.

has given up

all its

Add liquid.

evaporate, then add the

end the sauce should be

a

end add the shrimp, which

Use

preferably Verdicchio 1

to

and Parmigiano-

onion, adding the garlic but not letting 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive Ya

garlic

the cuttlefish, wine, toma-

and pepper

TAGLIATELLINE CON

CALAMARI

shallot

unsalted butter

14 lb. (1 stick)

sprinkle with the parsley.

this

sauce on thin taglia-

TAGLIOLINI AL TARTUFO NERO

MARCHE

TAGLIOLINI WITH

BLACK TRUFFLE Make

tagliolini

flour) or 1

lb.

homemade

tagliolini,

Cook

using only egg yolks (4 yolks to each cup of

use the classic

tagliolini of

the tagliolini until

al

Campofilone.

dente in lightly salted boiling

(see below) or purchased

There are two

water.

Mix

variations for the sauce. 1)

Salt

the butter For the sauce: 3 tbsp. unsalted butter tsp.

1

demiglace

3 oz. black truffle,

shaved using a

truffle

and demiglace. Use

adding the remaining olive oil in a large

soon as

it

this

sauce on the

truffle to the plate.

pan and cook the

tagliolini,

2)

Heat the

(removing

garlic

it

as

turns brown!), and pour in the tagliolini and

the truffle. Serve immediately in serving bowls.

shaver or

3 tbsp. olive

oil

clove garlic

1

3 oz. black truffle, grated

TAGLIOLINI AL TARTUFO

NERO

Dl

NORCIA

UMBRIA

TAGLIOLINI WITH BLACK TRUFFLE FROM NORCIA Norcia

is

a

town

in

eastern Umbria and

is

famous

for

its

black truffles. For the pasta: 1

% cups all-purpose flour, plus

Use

the flour

and eggs

on page

recipe

to prepare a pasta

10. Roll

page 212). Cut these into

tagliolini

3 large eggs

tagliatelle), roll

For the sauce: 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

2

oz.

black

oil

garlic clove

truffle, sliced

Salt

TAGLIOLINI Dl

CAMPOFILONE

MARCHE 7 oz. squid, cut in thin slices

4

oz.

dough

as in the

out to form thin sheets (see

it

more as needed

small shrimp, sliced

in

them

in flour,

and

under a cloth for 30 minutes.

(much thinner than them aside to rest

set

Cook

the tagliolini

till

al

dente in lightly salted boiling water; drain. Pour the olive oil in

a

pan

garlic over

Add

large

enough

to hold the pasta

low heat, but do not

let it

take

and heat the

on any

color.

the cooked tagliolini and truffle, toss, and serve.

TAGLIOLINI WITH SQUID AND SHRIMP For the wine use Verdicchio.

Combine the squid, shrimp, olive oil, and garlic in a pan. Cook over low heat for about 1 5 minutes, then add the

half

chili

pepper.

CONTINUED rately,

cook the

Pour

in the

wine and

stir well.

Sepa-

tagliolini in lightly salted boiling water;

399

1

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

Pinch red Vi 1

chili

oil

garlic clove

when

drain

shrimp and

al

Add the tagliolini to the Add the parsley. Serve hot.

dente.

tost:

squid and

•w

pepper flakes

cup dry white wine

homemade tagliolini

lb.

(see page 399) 2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley Salt

TAGLIERINI TAJARIN DELLE LANGHE

PIEMONTE

IN It

MEAT SAUCE traditional to

is

gizzards,

For the dough: 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed 6 large eggs Salt

For the sauce:

add to the sauce along with the chicken

cockscombs, rabbit

livers,

and unlaid eggs found

Use

the flour

recipe (see

and eggs

on page

page 2 2)

them

to prepare a pasta

10. Roll the

dough out

Cut the taglierini

.

oi.

scraped lardo (see page 1

1

1

minced

onion, finely

minced

garlic clove, finely

minced

bunch

flat-leaf parsley, 1

1

tbsp.

tbsp.

chopped

chopped sage

chopped rosemary Vi

cup red wine

2 chicken livers Kidneys, hearts, and gizzards

from several chickens Fresh mushrooms, chopped, or dried

mushrooms, soaked

in

water

and Marsala, drained, and chopped 4 oz. fresh sausage meat, crumbled 2 tbsp.

tomato puree

2 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

400

and

set

olive oil,

2 tablespoons butter, and lardo in a pan; add the celery,

and rosemary; when

mixture begins to take on color begin adding small

this

Cut

amounts of wine.

carrot, finely

medium

Heat the

all

the giblets into pieces and

2)

celery stalk, finely minced 1

1

as in the

oil

4 tbsp. unsalted butter 1

dough

into a thin sheet

as fine as hair

aside to dry covered by a cloth.

carrot, onion, garlic, parsley, sage, 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

in

hens that have been slaughtered.

Then add

mushrooms and sausage meat, Cook at the remaining wine, and the tomato puree. very low heat, remembering that the more it cooks the brown.

better

and ter

it

toss

tastes.

the

Cook the

them with

and cheese and

taglierini until al dente, drain,

the sauce. Stir in the remaining butserve.

I

TAJARIN TRIFOLA

PIEMONTE

I

TAGLIATELLE

WITH TRUFFLE This dish

Use For the pasta: 2/3 cups all-purpose flour,

more as needed

plus

2 large eggs tbsp. grated

1

Parmigiano-Reggiano

recipe

unsalted butter 1

garlic clove

typical of Alba.

and eggs

on page

dough

to prepare a pasta

as in the

adding the Parmigiano-Reggiano and

10,

4 tablespoons water with the eggs (the dough very dense) Roll

up the

sheet and cut

it

into

pan and add the

and pepper.

Add

Cook

be

the broth

wide

Heat

tagliatelle.

garlic, sage, cheese, salt,

and reduce the heat

to low.

the pasta in lightly salted boiling water until

dente, drain, slices

will

Roll out a very thin sheet (see page 212).

.

the butter in a

For the sauce: 34 lb. (1 stick)

is

the flour

and pour the sauce over the

al

Add

tagliatelle.

of white truffle to the serving plate.

Several sage leaves

cup grated

34

Parmigiano-Reggiano 34

cup chicken broth

Shaved white as

truffle,

much as needed Salt

and pepper

TAMBURO

D

I

RISO

SICILIA

BAKED RICE MOLD This dish, typical of Catania,

on Christmas. Lard

Breadcrumbs 1

large hen

chopped vegetables

2 cups

(celery, onion, carrot)

Broth 1

Zi lbs.

make

ground veal (enough to

at least 30 tiny meatballs)

2% 34

6 oz.

cups Arborio

rice

cup grated pecorino

tuma or

caciocavallo, sliced

Sausage or salame, chopped 4 large eggs, beaten

Parmigiano-Reggiano

ing layers of

Some

is

prepared for the midday meal

families enrich the preparation by add-

meat sauce

hen meat.

to the layers of

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking dish with lard

and sprinkle

it

with breadcrumbs.

Simmer

Use

vegetables in broth to cover.

the hen

the veal to

and

make

meatballs about as large as almonds (about thirty should

be enough) and add them to the broth; remove them

When

when cooked and

set aside.

through remove

from the broth, drain

is

cool

enough

it

to handle,

cooked it

and bones and

.

caciocavallo; next

as

is

and when

(add water

of rice in the baking dish; over

balls,

skin

hen it,

into strips.

until al dente

pecorino

remove the

the

Add the rice to the broth and if necessary). Add the Make a layer (the result should be quite dry)

chop the meat cook

it

add a good

this place the

layer of

and sausage or salame; cover

many layers as

this

desired, ending with

tuma and/or

hen meat, meat-

with

rice.

one of rice.

Make Pour

401

the eggs over the rice, then sprinkle with Parmigiano-

Bake

Reggiano.

30 minutes, or

for 25 to

are set.

TARTUFIOLI AQUILANI

ABRUZZO

TRUFFLE RAVIOLI This dish, typical of L’Aquila,

combines tartufo 1

A cups

2

all-purpose flour,

plus

more as needed 4 large eggs 12 oz. ricotta,

drained of most of

its

some

sliced truffle for serving

Unsalted butter, melted

Grated pecorino 1

bunch

chopped

flat-leaf parsley,

(truffle)

called a tartufioli, a

is

with

ravioli.

Salt

word that

Instead of butter,

it

can be seasoned with tomato sauce.

Use

the flour and 3 of the eggs to prepare a pasta

as in the recipe

on page

minutes before rolling

it

10.

Let the pasta

and mix

it

to

form

Add

with the ricotta.

a pinch of

salt,

Divide the dough in half and

in the truffle.

a sheet (see

dough 20

rest for

Beat the remaining egg

out.

liquid

2 oz. grated black truffle,

plus

until the eggs

.

Arrange

page 212).

then

roll

stir

out half

little

balls

of

the ricotta filling at regular intervals in rows along the

and cover the

sheet; roll out the other half

a

round cutter cut out the

make

ravioli,

sure they are well sealed.

first.

Using

pinching the edges to Boil these tartufioli in

boiling lightly salted water until they float. Drain

dress with butter, pecorino,

and

a

little

and

Before

parsley.

serving add a few slices of truffle to the plate.

BAKED RIGATONI WITH BRAISED PORK TEGAME

(IL)

SICILIA Lard or unsalted butter

VA VA

lb.

lb.

rigatoni

pork

loin

AND EGGS

16

This recipe, originally from an ancient noble family of Aragon-

ese origin,

is

variations,

all

rich with eggs of

and seasonings.

2/2 cups grated pecorino 1

bunch

flat-leaf parsley,

finely

daro and “

in

lbs.

tananu

wide

is

a

it

in this

preparation.

In fact,

the

to be broken so that the contents could

form they had assumed while cooking. The dish

can be made

in

another pan, provided

it

is

deep and round

slices

(can substitute caciocavallo) Salt

and does not have straight

sides.

The sides should instead

have the shape of a panettone.

Grease an earthenware baking dish with lard or

Cook

402

is

eaten on Holy Saturday. The

a kind of earthenware pot typical of old Sicilia,

ritual called for

chopped

tuma cheese,

in thin,

has many

various other locales around Agrigento, this

performs an important role

retain the

2% cut

It

which merely decrease the quantity of the

ingredients but do not alter the technique. At Aragona Cal-

devotional dish for Easter that 40 large eggs

FQR persons

butter.

the rigatoni in boiling lightly salted water until

al

dente; drain. Divide in three parts

on

single layer

absorb sauce.

to later

spoons lard

and arrange them

Braise the pork: heat 2 table-

Add

heavy pot and brown the pork.

in a

in a

remain open

a cloth so that their openings

1

inch of water, cover, and cook over low heat, turning the

cooked through, about

loin occasionally until

Preheat the oven to 300°F.

remove chop

from the

it

the

the parsley and pork. This mixture

Divide the

3 should

6 oz. for the

and

slices

the pecorino.

Add

Now

make

(to

the top-

of tuma into 4 portions: the

amount to about 12 last.

them and

must then be divided

remaining 4 tablespoons pecorino

first

cooked

Beat the 4 remaining eggs with the

into three portions.

ping).

is

the 40 eggs. Take 36 of

them together with 2% cups of

beat

hours.

1

meat

liquid (which will not be used)

Now come

it.

When

oz. each, leaving

about

begins the tegame: use one of

the three larger portions of

tuma

to line the

bottom and

also the sides of the baking dish; over this goes a first

portion of the pasta, which should be put in without

Over

pressing.

meat mixture.

this

goes one of the portions of egg-

Proceed

now

with the second layer, ar-

ranging another of the large portions of tuma over the last layer

pasta,

and not forgetting the

then a portion of

sides,

and the second portion of the egg-meat mixture.

The third layer should be identical to the The remaining tuma (the smallest portion) the last layer of pasta, followed by the egg

Now

mixture.

the tegame

is

Remove from

30 minutes.

cooled break the pan (or turn perfect timbale. ture, neither hot It

TESTAROLI

TOSCANA-LIGURIA cups all-purpose plus

flour,

more as needed Salt

it

first

Bake

and when and

over)

should be served

at

nor cold, immediately

serves as both a

you’ll

it

for

has

have a

room tempera-

after

it is

plated.

and second course.

GRIDDLED PASTA This ancient recipe Val di

3%

It

goes over

and cheese

finally ready.

the oven

second.

Magra.

disk kept

in

It is

a

is

typical of the Lunigiana

home

baking pan) is

was

a stone

the embers of the fireplace.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a

ter that

and the upper

version; the true testo

.

testo (or a

Mix the flour, water, and

salt to

griddle or

make

a bat-

not overly thick, being careful to avoid the

403

formation of lumps.

Pour

this

onto the

testo (or

griddle

or baking pan) and bake until firm, about 25 minutes.

After letting

cool, cut

it

it

in lightly salted water.

dressing of garlic and

in strips t,hat Testaroti

oil or, as

can then be boiled

can be flavored with a

has been customary for

quite a while now, with pesto (see page 418).

BAKED RICE WITH MUSSELS AND POTATOES

TIELLA ALLA BARESE

PUGLIA

This preparation

is

typical of Bari.

bed of chopped onions cooked Extra-virgin olive

cup

1

1

lb.

mussels 1

in

of

oil

minced

with olive

4 or 5 yellow potatoes,

plum tomatoes, peeled and 1

medium

onion, thinly sliced

cup grated pecorino

Va

A

]

cup

finely

a

dente, setting

al

shells

pan with the

in a

and heat

until they open.

reserve),

and remove the mussels from

it

and wash garlic

Drain, strain the liquid (and their shells.

Ar-

range a layer of potatoes along the bottom of the baking

chopped

flat-leaf

Breadcrumbs

make

Grease a large baking dish

Boil the rice until

oil.

under running water. Put them

sliced

to

rounds instead of making the

Scrape the mussels to clean the

aside.

peeled and sliced 8

sliced in thin

is

followed by a layer

potatoes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

their shells

garlic clove,

raw zucchini

first layer of

rice

One variation

in olive oil

dish and top with a layer of mussels.

parsley

a layer of the rice, tomatoes, (optional)

On top

of this place

and onion; sprinkle with

pecorino and dust with parsley and pepper.

Pepper

another layer of potatoes,

rice,

Arrange

tomatoes, onion, and

pecorino, and continue alternating layers until the ingredients are used up, ending with a layer of potatoes.

When you have finished this final layer, drizzle with olive oil,

the liquid

from cooking the mussels, then the

from boiling the

rice. If desired,

Bake for about 45 minutes. There salt since

liquid

add some breadcrumbs. is

no need

the liquid from the mussels has

to

add

salt.

BAKED RICE [

TIELLA ALLA FOGGIANA

PUGLIA

I

FOGGIA-STYLE This

is

a typically Pugliese preparation, particularly of Foggia.

Tiella (the dish is

cooked

in) is

named for the kind of pan it is traditionally made on a base of onions, potatoes, and

always

tomatoes, but there are many local variations.

made

with rice, mussels, and potatoes;

in

In

Bari

it

is

Foggia cod, mush-

rooms, or zucchini and black olives or mushrooms and lampasciuni (hyacinth bulbs, a kind of wild onion typical of the

404

Extra-virgin olive

4

medium

Mediterranean area, also known as cipollaccio col

oil

onions, peeled and sliced

1

(or as

many

3

potatoes, peeled,

A

lbs.

chopped, and seasoned

and

olive oil

A

3

lb.

A

lb.

its

1

flat-leaf

garlic clove, Zi

low

this

pleasant flavor and the blending of

making

it

less

chopped

this layer

little

olive oil

own

liquid

ing cooking,

if

and add

I

PUGLIA

is

crusty.

a

little

and

it

until the surface has

rest a

browned

few minutes before serving.

POTATO-MUSHROOM GRATIN Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Form alternating layers in an

ovenproof pan: potatoes, onions, mushrooms. peeled and sliced

Vi lb. potatoes, Zi lb.

with olive

oil

and sprinkle with

onions, thinly sliced

pecorino; dust the 1

lb.

mushrooms, chopped Extra-virgin olive

mind

will give off

more water can be added durPut the pan in the oven and

that

necessary.

Let

Drizzle

water, bearing in

mushrooms, and tomatoes

bake for 45 minutes, or

I

and mushrooms.

breadcrumbs, pecorino, salt, and oregano.

and

Fol-

with a few pieces of tomato, parsley,

with a

their

Salt

in a layer of

garlic,

that the potatoes,

chopped oregano

TIELLA D FUNGHI

and put

oil

than half an inch high.

with a layer of the seasoned potatoes; between

Season

cup breadcrumbs

tbsp.

its

the pieces of potato insert pieces of cod

parsley

2 tbsp. grated pecorino 1

a one-dish njeal that can be eaten cold,

is

inch ovenproof pan with olive the onions,

(or

4 plum tomatoes, peeled and sliced

chopped

it

all

aromas.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease the bottom of a 12-

salt-dried cod,

other firm mushrooms), choppad

2 tbsp.

A

salt

mushrooms

fresh oyster

women,

local

maintaining

in

soaked to soften and chopped 3

fiocco).

dish with ancient peasant origins, fruit of the creativity of

as needed)

with more olive

last layer

oil,

Drizzle

parsley, salt, pepper,

and

with breadcrumbs, drizzle

and add a

little

Bake

water.

for

oil

about 30 minutes. Let cool before serving. 2 tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

2 tbsp. grated pecorino Zi

cup breadcrumbs Salt

TIELLA

Dl

and pepper

VERDURE

PUGLIA

POTATO AND VEGETABLE GRATIN Preheat the oven to 400°F. Drizzle some olive

ovenproof baking pan and follow Extra-virgin olive

A

3

lb.

oil

fresh plum tomatoes,

peeled and thinly sliced

CONTINUED

it

oil

into

an

with a layer of toma-

toes (reserve a few for the top layer); follow this with layers of potatoes, eggplant, peppers, mozzarella,

few

basil leaves.

pepper.

Season every third layer with

Repeat the layers

in the

and

salt

same sequence

a

and until

405

1

lb.

potatoes, peeled and sliced 2 eggplants, sliced

2 yellow peppers, cleaned,

seeded, and sliced 9 oz. mozzarella, cubed

bunch

1

Zi

using up the ingredients, ending with a layer of mozza-

Mix

rella.

the breadcrumbs, pecorino, oregano,

and pepper anS sprinkle over the reserved tomato for about

1

1

the

Bake

oil.

hour.

tbsp. oregano

and pepper

PUGLIA

BAKED RICE WITH SEAFOOD This recipe, typical of Taranto, uses Pugliese mussels, which

can be opened Zi lbs.

medium

mussels (see note) onions, thinly sliced

2 zucchini, sliced 2

medium

in

disks

potatoes,

peeled and sliced Zi

them with

basil leaves

TIELLA TARANTINA

1

drizzle

cup breadcrumbs

Salt

2

and

salt,

Add

cup grated pecorino Vi

1

slices

final layer.

cups Vialone nano rice 2 ripe plum tomatoes,

like oysters.

If

these are not available, use

and cook regular mussels, reserving some

of their cooking

liquid.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Scrape the mussels under

running water.

Open them,

reserving their liquid, and

discard the top shell from each. slices

Arrange the onion

on the bottom of an ovenproof pan, and add the

Make

zucchini.

a layer of potato slices

and on these

peeled and sliced

Spread the

place the mussels.

rice over the

mussels

Grated pecorino

and pour on the reserved mussel Zi

cup

Make

liquid.

of tomatoes over the Extra-virgin olive

Dust with the pecorino,

rice.

oil

add

basil leaves,

and

drizzle with olive

oil.

minutes.

LOCAL TRADITION TIELLE DE GAETA In

this simple pie recipe

flour, olive

oil,

yeast,

chopped fresh anchovy olives.

406

a layer

basil leaves

from

Lazio,

homemade

pastry dough would be

and water, and after rising fillets,

tomatoes,

filled

The top of the pie would be brushed with

made

with

with a savory mixture of

garlic, parsley, chili flakes,

and meaty Gaeta

olive oil before baking.

Bake

for

45

1

TIMBALLO

CICORIELLE

Dl

PUGLIA

CHICORY TIMBALE An old variation uses sauteed meatballs instead

mor-

of the

tadella. 4/2

lbs.

wild chicory

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Boil the chicory in lightly

(can use dandelion)

salted water until tender, drain, 2tbsp. extra-virgin olive

olive oil in a Vi

medium

onion,

and chop.

Heat the

oil

pan and add the onion. Cook

until translu-

chopped cent,

add the tomato puree, and cook

until the sauce

2 lbs. tomato puree

has darkened and thickened

slightly.

Season with

salt

cup grated pecorino

Vi

and 2 tablespoons of the pecorino.

combine

In a bowl

6 oz. mozzarella, cubed

the chicory with a 4

Put a cup of the sauce

little salt.

mortadella, minced

oz.

a baking dish, top with half the chicory, then

in

add the

2 large hard-boiled eggs, sliced

other ingredients, sprinkle with pecorino, and top with Salt

sauce.

Make

the

ending with a layer of tomato sauce.

first,

another layer of chicory and season

it

Bake

as

for

30 minutes. Serve immediately.

TIMBALLO

Dl

MACCHERONI SICILIA

BAKED MACARONI WITH EGGPLANT This dish

is

typical of Messina.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking dish. Put the 3 eggplants, cut in thin

eggplant

lengthwise strips

for Extra-virgin olive 1

tbsp. lardo (see 1

medium 1

%

lb.

page

2),

minced

onion, thinly sliced

garlic clove,

slices in a colander, sprinkle

30 minutes

crushed

fresh plum tomatoes,

Heat

and

%

inch of olive

and 2 tablespoons lic;

3

water; drain

macaroni

with

salt,

and

leave

lose their bitter juice.

rigati

2 oz. caciocavallo, sliced 2 tbsp. unsalted butter Salt

oil in

a pan.

Dry

the eggplant slices

In a saucepan heat the lardo

olive oil

and saute the onion and gar-

add the tomatoes and season with

cook

lb.

make them

fry them; set aside.

chopped and seeded

A

to

oil

at

low

heat.

when

Cook al

dente.

tomato sauce, eggplant,

and caciocavallo, continuing the left.

cover and

In the baking dish arrange

alternating layers of macaroni,

ents are

salt;

the macaroni in salted boiling

layers until

no ingredi-

Place pats of butter across the surface and

bake for about 10 minutes.

Unmold

onto a serving

dish and cut in wedges to serve.

407

2 I

TIMBALLO

D

MACCHERONI SICILIA

BAKED MACARONI

AND RICE WITH PORK

Grease a baking pan (preferably a drum-shaped mold) with olive

2tbsp. extra-virgin olive 34

oil

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1

34

medium

cup chopped

onion,

minced

flat-leaf

parsley

lb.

1

34 lb.

2

ground pork

tomato puree

lbs.

cauliflower

lb.

short pasta

oil

234 cups Arborio rice 34 lb.

tuma cheese

(can substitute caciocavallo), cut Salt

in

pieces

and pepper

and dust with

Heat the remaining

and

saute the onion

Add

browned.

a

little

Parmigiano-Reggiano.

olive oil in a large

parsley.

saucepan and

Add the pork and cook until

the tomato puree, season with salt

pepper, and simmer slowly for at least 2 hours;

cooked

some of the meat.

set aside

pan and cook the

browned.

olive oil

cauliflower until lightly

Preheat the oven to 350°F. In separate pots

cook the pasta and

rice in lightly salted boiling water.

Flavor the cooked rice with

some of the

sauce. Reserve a

quarter of the rice and use the rest to line the bottom

and

sides of the baking

pan

(it

will

be thick)

Toss the

.

cooked pasta with the remaining sauce and spread

Over

the rice.

meat

set aside

this place the

and bake

I

CON PASTA SICILIA For the rice: unsalted butter

About 2 tbsp. breadcrumbs 5

cups

rice

% cup grated caviocavallo 3 large eggs Salt

This dish

1

filling:

spaghettini or macaroni

lb.

1

recipe bechamel sauce (see page 339) 1

made

recipe pasta sauce

with pork (see page 539)

CONTINUED

408

forms a fine golden

crust.

10

FOR PERSONS

made exceptional by its mixture of rice and pasta, somewhat elaborate but always enormously suc-

is

it

cessful. A historic dish,

is still

it

prepared for important

occasions.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking dish with butter

and dust with breadcrumbs. Boil the

salted water

and drain when

the caciocavallo

and eggs and

in lightly salted boiling

dente. For the

Cover with

more Parmigiano-Reggiano,

BAKED WITH MEATBALLS making

Ya lb. (1 stick)

it

over

AND PASTA

RICE D RISO

until

it

cooked cauliflower, the

from the sauce, and tuma.

the reserved rice, dust with

TIMBALLO

and

when

Boil the cauliflower

and chop. Heat some

until al dente, drain well,

in a saute 1

FOR PERSONS

8

still

al

dente;

set aside.

water and drain

rice in lightly

combine with

Cook the pasta when still very al

Toss the pasta with most of the bechamel and

Line the pan with half the cooked

meat sauce.

Cut the eggs

mixture.

in half lengthwise.

Pour

rice

in the

pasta and top with the hard-boiled eggs, tuma, and meatballs.

Cover with more of the sauce and the

re-

Dust with breadcrumbs and dot with

maining

rice.

butter.

Bake for about

1

hour, by which time

it

should

5 large hard-boiled eggs 7 02. fresh

tuma cheese

have a fine golden color.

mold onto

Remove from

the oven

and un-

a serving plate. Serve immediately.

(can substitute caciocavallo), in

1

pieces

recipe veal meatballs (the size of a peanut), sauteed

in oil

(see page 105)

2 tbsp. unsalt^d butter,

cut into cubes

BAKED LAYERED TIMBALLO D SCRIPPELLE I

ABRUZZO

CREPES WITH ARTICHOKE You can use 2 pounds spinach or

mushrooms, chopped, Extra-virgin olive

oil

Breadcrumbs

6

floured,

1

FOR PERSONS

pound peas or porcini

and sauteed

in

place of the

artichokes.

Lightly grease a baking dish with

oil

and coat with

breadcrumbs. Combine the eggs and flour and dilute For the scrippelle: 6 large eggs, beaten 3

A cup

all-purpose flour

Lard or olive

with 3 cups of water; you

will

Grease a saute pan with a

little

batter

1

(28-oz.) 1

1

can tomato puree

celery stalk, minced

small carrot, minced 1

small onion

6 oz. ground beef 6 oz. ground

lamb

6 oz. ground pork Zi

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

filling:

6 artichokes, trimmed,

oven rot,

saucepan. salt as

3

oil

scamorza cheees (6 oz. each),

saute in a

1

pan

finish.

it

at a

time

and

end of the cook-

olive oil in a large

until the sauce has thickened,

adding

slices in flour

in olive oil, turning, until golden.

aside two of the scrippelle

at

Preheat the

the tomato puree, celery, car-

(to discard at the

Dredge the artichoke

and Set

and arrange the others around

the inside of the baking dish so that they extend past the

Begin with a layer of sauce, follow with one of

artichokes, then scarmoza, then hard-boiled eggs,

and

a

dusting of pecorino as desired; beat together the egg, a

of the pecorino, milk, and

salt;

brush on the hard-

boiled eggs and continue the series of layers.

Fold over

the extending edges of the scrippelle , cover with the two

remaining

scrippelle,

diced

3 large hard-boiled eggs, cut in pieces

%cup

Combine

Cook

needed.

one

scrippelle (crepes)

ing), the three kinds of meat,

little

All-purpose flour

to 350°F.

and whole onion

chokes removed, and sliced

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

and cook the

low heat, setting them aside as they

rim. For the

batter.

lard (or olive oil), let

heat a few moments, then pour in a cup or so of the

oil

For the sauce:

have a very thin

and add pats of

butter.

Bake

for

about 90 minutes.

grated pecorino

large egg, beaten

2 tbsp. unsalted butter 1

tbsp. milk Salt

409

0

0

LOCAL TRADITION

TIMBALLO ALLA BONIFACIO This hearty timbale recipe from the area of Ciociaria for

Pope Bonifacio

VIII.

slices of prosciutto

in

Lazio

VIII

was reportedly created

To assemble the timbale, a baking pan would be lined with

crudo to form the

with Parmigiano-Reggiano and a small

shell.

Homemade

amount

of savory

fettuccine would be tossed

sauce made from tomatoes,

sauteed chicken gizzards and giblets, mushrooms, and veal meatballs. More sauce

would then be poured over the pasta and the dish covered with a sciutto slices before baking. At the table, the

a serving plate

and

final layer of pro-

baked timbale would be unmolded onto

sliced.

BEEF AND TIMBALLO

Dl

SFOGLIE

ABRUZZO

VEGETABLE

PIE

6

FOR PERSONS

A variation of this recipe (typical of Pescara) includes the addition of boiled peas to the sauce.

Unsalted butter

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease a 10-inch-round baking dish with butter.

Use

the flour

and eggs

to prepare a

For the dough:

dough

pasta

as described

on page

10.

Roll out a very

About 2/3 cups all-purpose flour

thin sheet (see page 212); cut the sheet in strips about 4 large eggs

Cook these

8 inches long and 6 inches wide.

in boiling

Salt

lightly salted

For the sauce: 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 3

A

2 1

lbs.

lb.

oil

ground beef

canned tomatoes

medium

onion,

chopped Salt

drain,

water for 3 minutes until very

and dry on

sauce: heat the olive beef.

Add

In another

a cloth. oil

in a

oil

artichokes until golden, then

scamorza.

dente,

pan and brown the ground

the tomatoes, onion,

another pan heat the olive

al

pan prepare the

Mix the egg into

and

and

salt to taste. +

fry the zucchini

In

and

combine them with the

the milk.

In the prepared

pan, arrange alternating layers of pasta, scamorza, sauce, For the Ji

cup extra-virgin

1

%

olive

filling:

for frying

oil,

7 oz. zucchini, cut in

rounds

3 artichokes, cut

pieces

lbs.

in

scamorza cheese, cubed 1

large egg, beaten 1

Vi

cups milk

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

410

pats of butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano,

and half of the egg

mixture; repeat, then end with a final layer of pasta and

bake 50 minutes.

1

PASTA AND TIMPANO

Dl

MACCHERONI

MEAT

PIE

CAMPANIA

This recipe

is

•

8

FOR PERSONS

typical of Naples.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Grease a high-sided baking For the sauce: 2 tbsp. extra-virgirf olive

medium

1

oil

minced

onion,

A few pieces of leftover meat

and their

fat

(about

sauce almost without meat: Heat the olive

meat and

the onion with the leftover

and adding

a

little

fat,

and cook

oil

browning slowly

wine from time to time.

When

the

'A lb.)

cup red wine

Zi

Prepare a “fake” meat sauce, meaning a tomato

dish.

2 tbsp. tomato paste

12 oz. tomato puree

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

onion and meat have taken on a nice brown color, add the tomato paste

and cook

comes

At

velvety.

until

too darkens and be-

it

this point dilute the

tomato puree and water and cook

at

sauce with the

very low heat until

Combine the ground beef, bread, make meatballs. Heat V2 inch of pan until hot and brown the meatballs

the sauce thickens. For the

filling:

6 oz. ground beef 2 oz. stale bread, soaked Yi 1

tbsp.

in

milk

flat-leaf

Vi lb. 1

1

3

A

lbs.

In

sausage

short macaroni

quarters

7 oz. /for di latte cheese,

cubed

For the pastry dough: 4 cups all-purpose flour 3 large egg yolks 1

large egg white

Vi lb. (2 sticks)

unsalted butter 1

'A

tsp. grated

cook

another pan, heat the lard until

oil

4 large hard-boiled eggs,

1

Mix

Olive

tbsp. lard

in

olive oil in another pan,

and

onion, sliced

cut

Heat 2 tablespoons

it.

sausage with a few tablespoons of the tomato sauce.

(15 oz.) can peas, drained 1

in

parsley

2 oz. pork belly

medium

1

olive oil in a large

the meatballs

cup grated pecorino

chopped

pecorino, and parsley to

the sausage, then cut

and onion

belly

the flour 10,

in disks.

until golden,

and eggs

sizzling.

Cook

the pork

then add the peas.

to prepare a pasta

adding the butter, sugar, lemon

the eggs.

dough zest,

as

and

salt

with

Cover the dough with a kitchen towel and

thirds of it to a sheet large

page 212).

(see

Use

on page

aside to rest at least 30 minutes. Roll out about

Cook

enough

to line the

set

two

baking dish

the macaroni in lightly salted

boiling water, just until half cooked, then drain

and

toss

with the sauce, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and pea mixture.

Arrange a layer of the macaroni mixture along the

bottom of the baking dish and over filling:

ture.

hard-boiled eggs, fior di

Repeat

macaroni.

cups sugar

make

lemon zest

top

Salt

it

is

this

pour part of the

and sausage mix-

operation so as to end with a layer of

Roll out the remaining portion of pastry to

a disk with nicely

that

latte ,

which

to cover the top.

Bake

until the

browned. Invert onto a serving plate and

serve hot.

411

TIMPANO

D

I

MACCHERONI IN

BIANCO

CAMPANIA

PASTA AND CHEESE PIE

lb.

O/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened

while, 4tbsp. Marsala lb.

rest,

cups all-purpose flour 2 large egg yolks

1

and egg yolks

use bucatini

perciatelli (can

or thick spaghetti)

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 3 oz. grated Gruyere 2 oz. prosciutto cotto, diced

Pinch grated nutmeg Salt

and pepper

to prepare a

dough

as

adding the butter and Marsala with the egg

dough Vi

1

FOR PERSONS

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a deep baking dish. Use the flour

A

6

on page

yolks.

Mean-

covered with a cloth, 30 minutes.

cook the

10,

Let the

perciatelli until al dente, drain,

and

toss

with 3 tablespoons butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Gruyere, prosciutto,

into

two

larger part

nutmeg, and pepper. one larger than the

parts,

on a floured board

and dot with the remaining

dough to form

a sheet

sealing the borders

all

to

Pour

to line the baking dish.

Vi6

Vi6

Divide the dough other. Roll out the

inch thick and use

butter. Roll out the

around with a fork and

Remove from

turned golden.

remaining

inch thick and cover the timbale,

Bake about 30 minutes, or

the top.

it

in the perciatelli mixture,

flattening

until the top has

the oven,

let

it

rest

10

minutes, invert onto a serving plate, and serve hot.

TOCCO

FUNZI

Dl

LIGURIA

MUSHROOM SAUCE This

is

a classic sauce for tagliolini or corzetti.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the

A

cup extra-virgin 1

medium

carrot,

1

1

onion,

lb.

oil

minced minced

celery stalk, minced

2 garlic cloves, 1

olive

minced

mushrooms

(or 2 to 3 oz.

dried porcini

mushrooms,

fresh

soaked and drained), sliced 4 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and 1

chopped

tbsp tomato paste 1

pinch oregano

6 small basil leaves, chopped

A

cup minced

flat-leaf

Salt

412

parsley

and pepper

olive oil in a

pan and add the

onion, carrot, celery, and garlic; cook over until the

onion

is

tablespoons of warm water.

Lower

taste.

wooden spoon

the heat

Add

and

and cook,

while the sauce thickens.

bowl combine the remaining parsley.

the

heat

Add the mushrooms, then

the tomatoes, tomato paste, oregano,

per to

medium

golden. If needed, dilute with a few

salt

and pep-

stirring

with a

In a separate

olive oil with the basil

mushroom mixture and

and

toss to mix.

TOCCO DE ROSTO LIGURIA

GENOESE MEAT SAUCE And the meat that was used

make

to

the sauce?

In

(and not only there) there can be but one response: 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

veal leg (or beef)

1

make meatballs

to

lb.

carrot,

minced

Heat the

1

celery stalk,

minced

over high heat.

onion,

minced

ley, butter,

flat-leaf

parsley

meat during

medium

chopped

2 tbsp. unsalted butter 2 oz. beef Zi

marrow

cup dry wine

(white for veal, red for beef) 1

sprig rosemary

3 tbsp. tomato paste

A few dried mushrooms (softened in warm water), chopped

for the next day.

Genoa is

used

Many Genoese add

a

basil leaf to the ingredients.

1

1

2 tbsp.

oil

it

all

olive oil in a large

Add

and marrow and brown. this first

Add

sides.

saucepan with high sides

the veal, carrot, celery, onion, parsDelicately turn the

phase to make certain

it

browns on and

the wine, rosemary, tomato paste,

mushrooms. Lower the heat and cook 15

20 minutes.

to

At this point add enough meat broth to cover the meat.

With the heat very ing the sauce, to

add the it

and continue cook-

flour

reduce, for about

1

At

hour.

remove the meat and pass the sauce through

that point sieve.

low,

make

It is

now

ready to use on

a

ravioli.

Beef broth 1

tbsp. all-purpose flour

TORTELLATA

TOSCANA

MACARONI WITH CHARD SAUCE This dish

is

Combine 1

cup boiled chard,

finely

%

chopped

lb.

ricotta

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

Pinch grated nutmeg 2 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 3 or 4 tbsp. Tuscan

meat sauce

(see page 331) 1

1

lb.

macaroni

tbsp. olive

Salt

typical of Pistoia

the Parmigiano-Reggiano,

saucepan. stantly

and Lucca.

the chard with the ricotta, butter, nutmeg, half

Heat

and meat sauce

this for a

few minutes,

in a large

stirring

and never letting it boil, until it becomes

and homogeneous sauce. salted boiling water to

Cook

which the

a

the pasta in lightly

olive oil has

been added

until al dente; drain. (Draining the pasta properly

portant:

Put a

it

little

con-

smooth

is

im-

should be neither too dry nor too watery.) of the meat sauce in the bottom of a serving

oil

and pepper

bowl, cover with pasta, sprinkle with more Parmigiano-

Reggiano, then top with the chard sauce. Serve hot.

413

A r

#

TORTELLI ALLA

MAREMMANA TOSCANA

TUSCAN TORTELLI from the

Tortelli

thick layer of For the dough: 3 cups all-purpose flour, sifted,

plus

Use the

Maremma

flour, eggs,

on page

more as needed

10,

made

should be

dough around the

and milk

so there

is

a

filling.

dough

to prepare a pasta

as

adding the milk with the eggs. Roll out a

sheet (see page 212) to achieve a

medium

thickness.

4 large eggs

(You can also use the kind of dough sold commercially.) 3tbsp. milk

In a salad bowl thoroughly combine the ricotta, chard, For the 10

oz.

filling:

sheep’s-milk ricotta

lOoz. chard, parboiled

and

%cup

finely

2 large eggs, beaten

pinch nutmeg

1

recipe

meat sauce (see page 331) Grated pecorino Salt

Romano

and pepper

TORTELLI PI

ACENTIN

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

and press down with

a finger to

Cook the

Cut out with

flour,

more as needed

boiling water for about

utes, or until they float. Drain, using a

skimmer

1

min-

5

to avoid

breaking them, and arrange some of them in a single layer in a bowl.

Top with an

excellent

sprinkle with pecorino. Repeat with

making

meat sauce and

more

tortelli

and

layers.

PIACENZA TORTELLI Use

it

plus

a knife

tortelli in lightly salted

page

sifted,

rows

in

make certain they won’t open during cooking.

For the dough:

About 3 cups all-purpose

and pepper.

along the sheet of dough, folding over the edge to cover.

sauce,

ALLA

salt,

Using a spoon arrange dollops of the mixture

chopped

grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1

Parmigiano-Reggiano, eggs, nutmeg,

the flour 10.

and eggs

dough

to prepare a pasta

as

on

Roll out a thin sheet (see page 212) and cut

into strips about 3 inches wide.

Cut

the strips length-

wise to form squares about IVz inches long on the side.

Prepare the

filling:

steam the spinach with a couple

2 large eggs

tablespoons of water until bright green

(this

happens

Salt

very quickly), drain For the

filling:

7Y? cups spinach 7 oz. ricotta 1

'A

large egg, beaten

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus

more

for serving

Pinch grated nutmeg Yz

cup unsalted butter, melted, for serving

414

it,

squeeze

gether with the ricotta.

Work

Reggiano, and nutmeg.

close, or,

gether between the

and chop

it

it

to-

Parmigiano-

in the egg,

this filling

on

over to form a triangle. Twist

even better, press two ends to-

thumb and

tortelli in lightly salted

dry,

Put a dollop of

each pasta square, folding

two corners to

it

forefinger.

Cook

the

boiling water. Drain, toss with

melted butter, and sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano.

LOCAL TRADITION

TORCINELLI comes from

This recipe for stuffed lamb’s intestines

lambs would

first

Molise. The entrails of suckling

be cleaned with a mixture of water and

salt,

and

left

to

soakthrough

several changes of water for at least a day. The lambs’ sweetbreads and stomachs

would also be cleaned and made

into a

chopped

filling

with onion, carrot, and parsley

and stuffed

into the

was

cook and chop up the torcinello to make a hearty tomato sauce with on-

to then

ion, parsley,

and

cleaned torcinello, or intestine. The tradition

basil to serve over

homemade

pasta, especially

upper Molise

in

the torcinello

fusilli;

could also be cooked whole over hot coals.

I

TORTELLI

Dl

ERBETTE

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

I

TORTELLI FILLED

WITH SWISS CHARD This dish

is

typical of

Parma.

Clean the greens, cutting away the For the 1

bunch Swiss chard 1

Vi

filling:

Zi lbs. ricotta

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 2tbsp. unsalted butter 1

large egg

squeeze them dry, ricotta with the

Chop

For the dough:

plus

more as needed 2 large eggs Salt

Parmigiano-Reggiano and

the boiled greens and

Use

nutmeg. as

3 cups all-purpose flour,

1

Vi

cup unsalted

butter, melted

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

them

butter.

work together with the

on page

10, then roll out the

dough

thinnest sheet possible (see page 212).

amounts of the

filling in

rows along the

to

and

salt,

the flour and eggs to prepare a

dough

make

the

Arrange small Fold

sheet.

over the sheet and cut in rectangles, closing the edges

and pressing them with the tortelli in lightly salted

tines of a fork.

some of

all

1

5

the

min-

Combine

and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Arrange

the tortelli in a single layer in a deep bowl.

Spoon over some of using

Cook

boiling water for about

utes until they float, then drain thoroughly.

the melted butter For the sauce:

boil

cheese mixture along with the egg, a pinch of

Pinch grated nutmeg Salt

and

stalks,

Remove them from the water, and leave to drain. Combine the

just until bright green.

of the

the sauce and repeat the layers,

tortelli.

415

*

#

TORTELLI D RICOTTA ALLA SALVIA I

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

RICOTTA TORTELLI WITH SAGE SAUCE This recipe

typical of Imola.

is

Thoroughly combine the For the

filling:

flat-leaf

parsley

salt,

%

cup

Zi

finely

chopped

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 7 oz. ricotta 1

Use

then set aside.

dough

pasta

the butter in a large

3 large eggs J4

cup dry white wine Salt

dough

2tbsp. unsalted butter 8 sage leaves

to

make

adding the wine

0,

sage, adding the

for about 3 minutes.

Arrange small amounts of the

212).

Cook

water until very

filling in

rows

and pressing them with the

the tortelli in lightly salted boiling

dente, drain, and add

al

Cook them

in a

them

to the

pan over medium heat and

Parmigiano-Reggiano

in the

Roll out

Fold over the sheet and cut in rect-

angles, closing the edges tines of a fork.

damp

in a

Meanwhile, heat

the thinnest sheet possible (see page

along the sheet.

sauce. For the sauce:

1

wrapped

pan and saute the

cream and simmering the

For the pasta:

rest,

kitchen towel (about 10 minutes).

Salt

About 2/3 cups all-purpose flour

ingredients, season with

on page

as in the recipe

with the eggs. Let the dough

large egg, beaten

Pinch grated nutmeg

filling

the flour and eggs to prepare a

stir

until the tortelli are coated

among warmed

with the sauce.

Divide them

ual serving plates

and serve immediately.

individ-

% cup heavy cream Zi

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

TORTELLI

ZUCCA

Dl

1

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

PUMPKIN RAVIOLI remove the

slices,

For the 1

4 1

54

oz.

54 lbs.

filling:

pumpkin

amaretti cookies (about

6)

cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1

tbsp. grated

lemon zest Salt

wrap

Zi

cup unsalted butter, melted 2 tbsp.

54

chopped sage

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Crumble

the amaretti

drained pumpkin and a pinch of to obtain a

homogeneous

and eggs

on page

10; the

dough

will

filling

be

on

deep

1

and combine zest.

Add

the

and work together

dough

Use

the

as in the recipe

Roll out to

form

a

arrange small amounts

(about the size of an egg yolk). Fold the

edges of the pasta. for about

salt

soft.

this

sheet over and cut rectangles.

in a

about 30

filling; set aside.

to prepare a pasta

sheet (see page 212) and

sage,

416

until soft,

with the Parmigiano-Reggiano and lemon

of the For the sauce:

and bake

in a kitchen towel. Place in a colander to drain

for 10 minutes.

flour

2 large eggs

it

seeds,

When baked scrape the flesh off the rind and

minutes.

For the pasta:

About 2 Vs cups all-purpose flour

1

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the pumpkin into large

Cook

5 minutes. dish,

Make

certain to seal the

in lightly salted boiling

Drain well and arrange

water

in layers

topping each layer with melted butter,

and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

TORTELLI D ZUCCA I

2

LOMBARDIA

PUMPKIN RAVIOLI This recipe

is

2

typical of the area of

Mantua.

Clean the pumpkin and cut into large 2

lbs.

pumpkin

(preferably from Mantua) 6 oz. amaretti cookies, crushed

mostarda di Cremona ajar or homemade), minced

the rind

and

fer, boil

it

or bake

it

in

removing

slices,

Steam the pumpkin

seeds.

or, if

you pre-

an oven; when cooked drain

Pass the flesh through a sieve and work

it

it.

with a fork to

7 oz.

(in 1

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano,

more

plus

for serving

Pinch grated nutmeg 1

large egg, beaten

2tbsp. breadcrumbs Pinch sugar, 1

if

necessary

sheet of pasta dough

create a uniform puree.

Add

the amaretti, mostarda di

Cremona Parmigiano-Reggiano, ,

a pinch of salt, a pinch

of nutmeg, egg, and breadcrumbs. (Add a pinch of sugar if

pumpkin

the

is

Let the

ances.)

The

not sweet enough.

not be overly sweet, but this

is

filling

should

a question of delicate bal-

filling rest in a

warm place.

The

sheet

of dough should be cut in rectangles about 3 inches by \Zi inches.

At the center of each goes

a spoonful of the

(see page 10)

Fold over the dough to obtain

filling. Zi

cup unsalted

little

envelopes

butter, melted

about

1

V2 inches on

a side; close the edges with a fork.

Salt

Cook in lightly salted boiling water. them out and

When they float lift and Parmigiano-

toss with melted butter

Reggiano.

TORTELLI TORTELLO CREMASCO

LOMBARDIA

CREMASCO-STYLE This dish

For the For the

filling:

9 oz. amaretti cookies, crushed 1

egg, then

pasta cup raisins

2 oz. candied citron peel,

minced

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1

typical of

chop and add

dough

spoons water to the egg. 212) and cut disks with a fold

them

1

tsp.

breadcrumbs

the other

all

filling

ingredients,

day.

Prepare a

Refrigerate at least

as in the recipe

on page

1

1

0,

adding 2 table-

Roll out a thin sheet (see page Fill

the disks of dough,

over, then seal the edges

by pinching them

dry cracker, crumbled,

or

Cremasco.

grind the amaretti and combine with the

stirring to blend.

large egg, beaten Zi

is

filling:

closed with the

glass.

thumb and

forefinger.

Cook

salted boiling water until they float; drain. For the dough: 3

cups all-purpose plus

in lightly

Dress while

hot with butter.

flour,

more as needed 1

large egg Salt

For the sauce: Vi

cup unsalted butter, melted

417

r

#

TORTIERA E

Dl

SARDINE AND ARTICHOKE CASSEROLE

SARDE

CARCIOFI

PUGLIA

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking dish. the sardines, removing the heads, then cut

10

oz.

fresh sardines

move

8 artichokes

Juice of Yi

bunch

Yi

and immerse

add

minced

lic,

cup grated pecorino

salt

mixed with lemon

and pecorino, and

oil

Arrange

drizzle with olive

a second layer using the sardines,

making more

and pepper

juice.

bottom of the baking

dish,

and pepper, then spread with breadcrumbs, gar-

parsley,

Form

Olive oil

Salt

in water

a layer of artichokes along the

chopped

flat-leaf parsley,

and trimming green areas from

the stem, then cut in lengthwise slices as thin as possible

lemon

cup breadcrumbs

3 garlic cloves, 1

1

re-

Clean the artichokes, snapping off

the bones.

the tough outer leaves

(preferably from Brindisi)

Clean

open and

layers.

oil.

and continue,

Drizzle the final layer with olive

and 2 tablespoons water.

Bake

until the artichokes

are tender, about 30 minutes, checking every so often to see

how

the artichokes are cooking.

LOCAL TRADITION

TROCCOLI AL RAGU In

Puglia, thick-cut spaghetti

This sauce, or ragu, can be

is

Dl

sometimes served with

made

in

the

same way

a

POLPO sauce made with octopus.

as a meat ragu (such as that on

page 329). Simply replace the beef and lamb with an equal quantity of octopus and omit the sausage and chicken at the end.

fragrance

is

When used

to flavor troccoli,

its

wonderful

integrated with the unmistakable perfume of the grated pecorino.

TRENETTE WITH TRENETTE CON

IL

PESTO

LIGURIA

PESTO SAUCE Grind

a

little

leaves, garlic, 2

bunches

of small basil leaves,

coarse

salt in

and pine nuts

ing, drizzle in the olive

oil.

cleaned and dried

paste 1

garlic clove,

mix

in the cheeses,

a dry paste.

When

which

will

this

Still

mix-

forms a creamy

al

bind

it.

Cook

the

dente in lightly salted boiling water, drain

cup pine nuts

CONTINUED

418

a mortar with the basil

form

crushed

pasta until Yi

to

well (reserve

Vi

cup of cooking water), and

transfer to a

6 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

bowl.

oil

1

tbsp. grated pecorino,

More

plus 1

lb.

CON

LE NOCI

I

TRILLI PASTA IN WALNUT SAUCE This dish

Use For the dough:

A cups

2

all-purpose flour 2 large eggs Salt

For the sauce: 4 tbsp. olive

dried spicy

(about

1

chili

pepper

chopped

flat-leaf

typical of Avellino.

sticky.

utes.

and eggs

on page

1

0; the

the

rest,

dough

With

a breadstick.

will

parsley

TURTUNETT

PIEMONTE For the gnocchi: potatoes

% cup all-purpose flour 1

tbsp.

chopped 4

flat-leaf

parsley

oz. fontina,

cubed Salt

For the sauce: 14 lb. (1 stick)

soft,

as in the

but should not

covered with a cloth, 30 min-

a knife cut each cylinder into 1-inch

trilli.

roll

each one to form 3 -inch

Cook

these in lightly salted

make

boiling water, then drain. Meanwhile,

Heat the

olive oil in a

pan and add the

pepper. When the garlic

is

cook for a minute, then add a

and simmer

the sauce.

garlic

and

chili

browned, add the walnuts and water and the parsley

little

for another 5 minutes.

Add

the pasta to the

toss.

FONTINA GNOCCHI WITH SAGE CREAM Cook

the potatoes in lightly salted boiling water, peel

them, put them through a potato lb.

be

into cylinders with the width of

cubes, then, using one finger,

pan and

1

dough

to prepare a pasta

dough

Let the dough

Form

ropes; these are the

cup) walnuts,

finely

chopped

recipe

be

is

the flour

oil

3 garlic cloves

2 tbsp.

dilute

cheese and

salt

CAMPANIA

14 lb.

Add

serve immediately.

I

1

seems too dry,

trenette or linguine

TRILLI

1

if it

for serving

Course

About

Toss with the pesto and,

with some of the pasta cooking water.

2tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

cool.

to

Add

form a

the flour, parsley,

soft

ricer,

and

dough and shape

then set aside to

fontina, then

the

dough

knead

into small

Melt the butter

gnocchi (see recipe, page 247).

Cook

pan, then add the sage and cream.

in a

the gnocchi

in lightly salted boiling water until they float, drain, then

add them

to the sauce

with more cheese

and cook

for

1

minute. Serve hot

at the table.

unsalted butter

A few sage leaves, chopped

% cup heavy cream Grated Parmigiana-Reggiano, for serving

419

#

VERMICELLI AGLIO

OLIO

E

I

CAMPANIA

r

VERMICELLI IN GARLIC AND OIL An extremely simple dish, yet to Neapolitans the most difficult to prepare since there

Zi

vermicelli

lb.

1

cup extra-virgin

critic

the pasta

olive oil

too

much

oil,

ranks among

it

will

always be a

or not enough garlic,

overcooked. One flavorful variant consists of the oil.

chili

pepper

Cook the

flat-leaf

parsley

dente. While the pasta cooks, heat the olive

dried

Chopped

is

is

addition of ground pepper to the garlic and

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1

on hand: there

pasta in lightly salted boiling water until very oil in

al

a saute

pan over low heat. Add the garlic and chili and cook slowly

Salt

so they will color without burning.

When

the garlic has

colored add a ladleful of water from the pasta cooking

water to stop

it

from cooking and take the pan off the

Drain the pasta, toss

heat.

it

in a serving

bowl with the

sauce, and sprinkle with parsley. Serve hot.

LOCAL TRADITION

TROFIE RECCHESI

LE In

the area along the Ligurian coastline running from Bogliasco to Camogli, there

a custom of preparing small gnocchi ing flour without the bran), salt, after Recco, which

rounded

like a

is

made

were tossed with pesto

alia

and boiled potatoes or with

a

Sometimes a

little

chestnut flour was added

VERMICELLI AND

SEAFOOD BAKED IN FOIL This dish

is

typical of the Amalfi coast.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Za

vermicelli

cup extra-virgin 1

garlic clove,

olive

oil

Cook

the vermicelli in lightiy

salted boiling water until very al dente; drain. olive oil over

chopped garlic

CONTINUED

420

and They

few boiled fresh white beans.

CAMPANIA lb.

in.

Genovese, sometimes supplemented with green beans

VERMICELLI AL CARTOCCIO

1

trofie Recchesi,

just above Camogli. They are about V/> inches long, thin,

kind of corkscrew.

was

by hand with white “sack” flour (mean-

and water. These gnocchi are called

and

low heat

chili

in a large

pepper and cook

ovenproof pan.

Heat the

Add

until the garlic takes

the

on

Zi

%

3

A

3

A

3

A

3

A

lb.

lb.

dried

chili

pepper

mussels, cleaned

lb.

clams, cleaned

lb.

lb.

dctopus, cleaned

fresh shelled shrimp

a

little

Add

color.

stir

this

sauce with the vermi-

and cover the pan with aluminum Bake

edges.

2 minutes, then

After about 10 to 15

parsley.

minutes of cooking combine celli

and

the seafood

add the tomatoes and

foil,

sealing the

for 5 minutes.

fresh plum tomatoes, crushed

cup chopped

Vi

flat-leaf

parsley

VERMICELLI AL SUGHETTO D

ANGUILLA

I

MOLISE

VERMICELLI WITH EEL SAUCE Heat the eel,

Vi

cup extra-virgin 1

olive oil

garlic clove

8 pieces of eel (about 2 lbs.),

wine; add

move

until they take

When

salt.

on

the eel

a is

little

Cook

the flesh to the sauce.

color.

garlic

Pour

and

in the

thoroughly cooked re-

from the pan, skin and bone

it

add the

olive oil in a terra-cotta pan,

and cook

it,

and return only

the vermicelli in lightly

cleaned

A

them 1

lb.

Cook

to the pan.

at

high heat a few minutes, add-

vermicelli

ing the parsley at the end. Serve immediately.

A

cup chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

Coarse sea

salt

VERMICELLI ALLA SICILIANA

SICILIA /i

cup extra-virgin 1

10 1

oz.

olive oil

garlic clove

plum tomatoes, chopped

eggplant, cleaned and diced

sweet pepper

1

Vi

cup pitted and chopped

green olives 1

and then add

salted boiling water until al dente, drain, cup dry white wine

(if

SICILIAN- STYLE VERMICELLI typical of Messina.

This dish

is

Heat the

oil in

golden.

a saucepan,

Remove

it

add the

garlic,

and cook

Spear the sweet pepper on a fork and pass to

burn the

Cut

skin,

it

over a flame

then scrape off the skin with a knife.

the pepper in half

and remove the

halves, then cut in strips olives, capers,

until

and add the tomatoes and eggplant.

and add

seeds. Rinse the

to the pan.

and anchovies, then add the

Stir in the

basil leaves.

possible Sicilian)

tbsp. capers, rinsed

and chopped

2 salt-cured anchovies,

cleaned, boned, and chopped

A few 1

Cook

at

low

heat.

boiling water, drain

Cook the vermicelli in lightly salted when slightly al dente, then toss with

the sauce and sprinkle with caciocavallo or pecorino.

basil leaves

lb.

vermicelli

Grated caciocavallo or pecorino Salt

421

VINCISGRASSI

MARCHE

MARCHE-STYLE LASAGNE This dish

is

supposedly named for Austrian Prince Alfred zu

who

Windisgratz, For the sauce: 4tbsp. unsalted butter

1

2

oz.

pancetta, minced

2

oz.

prosciutto crudo, finely

chopped

onion, finely

chopped

1

garlic clove, finely

chopped

1

celery stalk, finely

chopped

carrot, finely

chopped

medium

Ancona.

It

1799

in

a

good idea to prepare

a highly personal version.

this well in

advance of the meal

It

in

question, because the assembled dish has to be set aside for

several hours of “meditation.” This period of “reflection” will

permit the flavors to blend, only to then be exalted by baking in

a slow oven, which will result in a beautiful outward ap-

pearance. There are also those 1

the troops occupying

to present a definitive recipe

makes

since every local kitchen is

commanded

would be impossible

who add ground meat and

sweetbreads, brains, and chicken

livers to the

sauce with

the giblets.

A few tbsp. dry white wine

Begin by preparing the sauce: Heat the butter 4

oz.

in

an

chicken giblets, chopped

earthenware pot over low heat, add the pancetta and 12

oz.

tomato puree

and saute

prosciutto, Zi

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano color. 1

Add

until they

have taken on a

the onion, garlic, celery,

little

and carrot and cook

recipe bechamel sauce (see page 339) Salt

and pepper

slowly,

them

adding small sprinkles of white wine and

season with For the pasta:

About 2 cups all-purpose flour 3 large eggs

salt

letting

Add the giblets and tomato puree and

evaporate.

and pepper;

let this

sauce then simmer

Use

over low heat for at least 2 hours.

the flour and

eggs to prepare a pasta dough as in the recipe on page 10.

Let the dough

rest,

covered with a kitchen towel,

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Roll the dough

30 minutes.

out to form thin sheets (see page 212). Cut

it

into sheets

of lasagne about 4 inches wide and 6 inches long. these, a

when

few

still

at a time, in lightly salted boiling

very

al

Lay them out tomato sauce the pasta.

Boil

water and

dente drain and put them in cold water. to dry

in a

on a

Pour some of the

cloth.

baking pan, then put in a

Add more tomato

first

layer of

sauce and a dusting of

Parmigiano-Reggiano, then more pasta, tomato sauce,

and Parmigiano-Reggiano, and so on

up

the pasta.

End

with the bechamel. top

422

is

golden.

with a

final layer

until you’ve

used

of sauce and cover

Bake for 45 minutes or

until the

VIPERE CIECHE

1

LAZIO

PASTA "SNAKES” WITH SAUSAGE Use

the flour to prepare a pasta

on page For tha pasta:

cups all-purpose

3

plus

the

4

2 oz. pancetta,

palm of

from the pot

oil

a large little

sausage meat, crumbled

oz.

dough this

a

1 Vs

hand

as in the recipe

covered with a cloth, 30 min-

rest,

dough

dough

cups of water in place of the

into thin rods about as long as

Cook

(these are the vipere).

pasta in lightly salted boiling water and remove

pepper

chili

using about

Form

utes.

For the sauce:

1

0,

eggs. Let the

flour,

more as needed

2tbsp. extra-virgin olive

1

as

soon

color.

Add

Heat the

as they float.

pan and saute the

olive oil in

takes

on a

and pancetta and cook

until

chili

the sausage

the

them

pepper

until

it

browned, then add the pasta and cook over high heat

minced

dry the cooking water of the “vipers.”

Grated pecorino

Pour

to

into a serv-

ing bowl and dress with pecorino to taste. Serve hot.

ZITIALSUGO

CONTONNO CALABRIA

1

1

ZITI WITH TUNA SAUCE Chop

the anchovies

and tomatoes, discarding the tomato

seeds and juice. Drain the tuna and mince 4 salt-cured anchovies 1

lb.

plum tomatoes, peeled 4

oz.

canned tuna

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

2 garlic cloves, 1

chopped

Heat the

ened, add the tuna. ing water until

al

Cook

the

ziti

in lightly salted boil-

dente, then drain and

and

toss

them

with this sauce and caciocavallo. Serve hot.

pinch oregano 1

Vi

oil

small onion, chopped

it.

Add the onion and garlic and cook until golden. Add the anchovies, tomatoes, salt and pepper, and oregano. When this has thickolive oil in a terra-cotta pan.

lb. ziti

cup grated caciocavallo Salt

and pepper

ZITONCINI ALLA

CAMPOLATTARO

CAMPANIA

PASTA WITH ANCHOVIES AND TUNA Chop

the anchovies

and tuna together

to blend.

Put

the mixture in a bowl with half the chicken broth, put

2

salt-cured anchovies,

canned white meat tuna

6 oz.

1

A cups

Pinch 1

lb.

boned

chili

chicken broth

pepper flakes

penne or other small pasta cup extra-virgin

'A

2 tbsp.

chopped Salt

flat-leaf

olive oil

parsley

through a food

mill,

and

Add the second half of the white pepper. has thickened.

water until

add the

al

it

transfer the result to a pan.

broth, chili pepper flakes,

Cook this sauce Cook the pasta

dente. Drain, toss

at

and

very low heat until

it

in lightly salted boiling

it

with the olive

parsley. Stir the pasta into the sauce

oil,

and

andcook

over low heat for 3 minutes and serve hot.

and white pepper

423

CHAPTER FOUR

ANCHOVIES IN RED SAUCE

ACCIUGHE AL BAGNETTO ROSSO

PIEMONTE

This dish

is

Combine For the sauce: 2 whole anchovies preserved

in oil,

coarse paste forms.

canned tuna (preferably 1

1

small piece of red

spoon the sauce over them. Garnish with

Italian)

boiled eggs,

garlic clove chili

a blender.

oil in

Blend

until a

Stir in extra-virgin olive oil to taste.

Arrange the anchovies side by side on a serving plate and

tbsp. capers

1

oz.

the ingredients for the sauce except the salt-

cured anchovies and olive

bones Removed and cut lengthwise

3

typical of Asti.

all

lemon wedges,

frigerate at least

pepper

basil,

olives,

hard-

and mushrooms.

Re-

24 hours before serving.

10 basil leaves

2 bay leaves Pinch thyme or oregano 6 tbsp. tomato puree, blended with 1

1

1

% (if

mustard

tbsp. yellow

tbsp. sugar

tbsp. red wine vinegar

lb.

salt-cured anchovies

possible Spanish anchovies) Yi

cup extra-virgin

olive

oil

For serving: Olives

Hard-boiled eggs, sliced

Lemon wedges Basil leaves

Mushrooms

in oil,

drained

ACCIUGHE AL

BAGNETTO VERDE

PIEMONTE

1

ANCHOVIES IN GREEN SAUCE This dish

is

typical of Biella.

Cover the anchovies with a solution of V2 cup water and Zi lb. Vi

cup plus

1

1

Yi

salt-cured anchovies

tbsp. red wine vinegar garlic clove,

cup chopped

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

chili

pepper

1

V2 cup

vinegar.

Soak overnight

to desalt them.

Rub the

anchovies with your hands under a pisciola (thin stream of running water), splitting them in half lengthwise and

removing the bones. Place

in a colander

under running water, then

set

them

and

rinse again

aside to dry.

Pre-

(preferably spagnolina,

can substitute cherry pepper) Extra-virgin olive

oil

pare

el

parsley,

bagnet verd (“the green sauce”) with the garlic,

and

chili

pepper by blending them together

Add extra-virgin olive sauce. Add the remaining

mortar. the

Put the anchovies in layers

426

oil 1

as

needed

in a

to loosen

tablespoon vinegar.

in a glass container

and cover

each layer with the green sauce. Refrigerate and serve

few days.

after a

ACCIUGHE CRUDE

1

LIGURIA

MARINATED ANCHOVIES This dish

is

typical of Oneglia.

Butterfly, clean, 3

/

lb.

fresh anchovies

Vi

little

Extra-virgin olive

for

vinegar,

tainer Salt

to

ACCIUGHE

LIGURIA

with a cloth.

1

lemon

and oregano.

Arrange them

and barely cover with

in in

juice, salt as desired, a

Refrigerate in that mixture

24 hours, then drain them. Put them

oil

RIPIENE FRITTE

Dry

a dish in layers with the

cup red wine vinegar

chopped fresh oregano

tbsp.

1

and bone the anchovies. Wash them

cold running water.

Juice of 2 lemons

olive

oil.

in another con-

They are now ready

be served.

FRIED STUFFED ANCHOVIES The same technique can be applied to sardines.

Clean the anchovies and remove the heads and bones. 14 lbs.

1

fresh anchovies Vi

1

bunch

cup pine nuts

garlic clove

1

1

parsley

flat-leaf

Finely chop the pine nuts with the parsley, garlic, and

marjoram. Add the bread, cheese, egg yolks, per.

Fill

over the other

small sprig fresh marjoram

Vj

roll,

soaked

in

milk

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

salt,

and pep-

anchovy with the mixture and fold

Heat

half.

1

inch of olive

oil in a

pan

Beat the egg whites until frothy. Dip the ancho-

until hot.

The bread of a

half of each

vies in the

egg whites, then in the breadcrumbs.

until golden,

Fry

then drain on paper towels and serve.

2 large eggs, separated Olive 1

Zi

oil

for frying

cups breadcrumbs Salt

and pepper

AGONI FRITTI

UMBRIA

FRIED SHAD Heat

1

inch of olive

eggs with Olive

oil

for frying

2 large eggs, beaten 1

lb.

in eggs,

salt.

and

oil in a

pan

Dredge the cleaned

fry

them

until hot.

Season the

fish in the flour,

until golden.

then

Drain on paper

towels and serve hot with slices of lemon.

shad, cleaned

All-purpose flour, for dredging

Lemon

slices, for

garnish Salt

427

AGONI

IN

SOUSED SHAD

CARPIONE

LOMBARDIA

Agoni are a kind of shad; this recipe

is

meaning around Lake Como, as Lombard lakes.

well as in

area,

agoni (shad), cleaned

lb.

1

Olive

for frying

oil

Rinse and dry the shad.

All-purpose flour, for dredging 1

1

chopped

tbsp.

medium

1

1

1

flat-leaf

Dredge the

until hot.

cup red wine vinegar

and

parsley

in

the Lario

all

the other

inch of olive

1

fish in flour,

oil in

a

pan

removing any excess,

When golden, drain them on

fry them.

paper tow-

Put them in a bowl. Combine the vinegar, parsley,

els.

onion,

chopped

onion, garlic,

garlic clove,

chopped

just until boiling.

sprig segrigiola (wild thyme)

Heat

popular

and

salt,

this infusion for

segrigiola in a

Pour over the

saucepan and heat

Leave the

fish.

fish in

about 6 hours before serving.

Salt

AGONI

IN

SHAD

SALSA VERDE

LOMBARDIA

This dish called

For the lb.

1

fish:

IN GRE E N SAUCE

is

typical of the Lario,

based on

its

Latin

Choose somewhat small

shad or freshwater sardines,

Heat

which

is

what Lake Como

is

name, Larius. fish

because they’re

a cast-iron griddle or skillet until hot.

tastier.

Meanwhile,

cleaned

chop together the

parsley, onions, pickles, capers, an-

All-purpose flour, for dredging

chovies, garlic, Extra-virgin olive

form For the sauce: 1

bunch

flat-leaf

parsley

% 1

a sauce.

Dip

yolks.

Whisk

the fish in flour

in the olive oil to

Cook them

with a

little

side.

Put the cooked

olive

oil.

fish in a

and sprinkle them

for 2 minutes

on each

bowl and pour the sauce

over them.

cup pickled salad onions

Vi

and egg

oil

cup pickles

tbsp. capers

2 salt-cured anchovies 2 garlic cloves,

chopped

Yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs,

crumbled 1

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

ALICI A RISSITANA

CALABRIA

I

BAKED ANCHOVIES invented by fishermen. The

1

cup roughly chopped stale bread without crust

continued

428

was may be

This simple recipe from the cuisine of Reggio Calabria

very small, but the result

is

number

of ingredients

truly flavorful.

p re heat

the oven to 325°F. Grease a baking pan.

bine

bread? p ars i e y sa i t as desired, capers,

^

5

chili

Com-

pepper

2 tbsp.

chopped

1

Pinch

flakes,

and

in the

prepared pan.

chili

%

lbs.

54

of the anchovies in a layer

Cover with

a thin layer of the

bread mixture. Repeat the layers, ending with a thicker

chopped

layer of the bread mixture. Sprinkle the surface with olive

fresh anchovies,

cleaned and

A few tbsp.

Arrange

garlic.

pepper flakes

garli# clove,

1

1

parsley

tbsp. capers

flat-leaf

oil

and bake

until the top has

formed

a golden crust.

filleted

extra-virgin«olive

oil

Salt

LOCAL TRADITION

AGONI ALLA NAVETT The name agon/ alia navett, shad “boat-style,” by Larian fishermen

in

no fantasy. The navett

is

their

homes on Monday and return Saturday,

boat.

On the boat there

is

eating and sleeping

always a small charcoal

grill.

caught are grilled for nourishment. The agoni

of the fish

by being laid across the

is

the boat used

Lombardy, with three oarsmen. The fishermen set out from

grill,

sprinkled with coarse

then on the other. The side dish

is

salt,

all

that time on the

During the work week, some (a kind of

shad) are prepared

and cooked,

first

on one side,

cold polenta.

ANCHOVIES |

ALICIOTTI

CON

INDIVIA

LAZIO 2 lbs. fresh anchovies 2 lbs. white endive Vi

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

Salt

I

WITHENDIVE Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking dish. Clean

and

fillet

and

let

endive,

the anchovies

them drain wash and

and remove the heads;

well.

salt

it,

salt

them

Clean the white area of the

and drain

well.

Arrange

alter-

nating layers of endive and anchovies in the prepared

baking dish, repeating the layers three or four times, but the

first

and

last layer

ously with olive until the

oil

must be endive.

and bake

for about

Drizzle gener-

45 minutes, or

water in the endive has evaporated and

cooked and the

olive oil has taken

it is

on a dark gold

well

color.

429

ANGUILLA ALLA BISENTINA

1

LAZIO

BOLSENA EELS IN THE STYLE OF BISENTINA Bisentina

is

the

name

of a small island in the middle of Lake

Bolsena. 2 lbs. eels, cleaned,

Slice the eels into 4-inch-long lengths.

Mix the

herbs to-

heads and skin removed gether.

Heat

a

little

olive oil in a

pan (preferably earth-

5 sprigs rosemary

enware) and saute the 3 1

sage leaves

dried bay a

powder

utes, then

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

salt,

crumbled almost to Va

Salt

in

chili

a while longer, adding

warm

!

LAZIO

flat-leaf

sprig fresh

1

this

parsley

the cloves

leaf fresh

oil to

make

mixture in a pan over low heat.

a paste.

Cut the

Heat

eels into

2-inch-long sections. Dust them with the flour, then

marjoram

cup extra-virgin

Vi

necessary to

Finely chop together the garlic, parsley, marjoram, rose-

slowly saute in the

sprig fresh rosemary 1

if

Remove

HUNTER-STYLE EELS mary, and sage; mix with olive

1

water

pieces

3 garlic cloves

bunch

olive oil, the tomatoes,

pepper, and the remaining vinegar.

and pepper

ANGUILLA ALLA CACCIATORA

1

tablespoon vinegar.

cook for several min-

of garlic before serving.

plum tomatoes, peeled

pepper, broken

chili

1

this

maintain a dense and flavorful sauce.

2 or 3 garlic cloves

Dried

with

Let

add 2 or 3 tablespoons

pepper,

Cook

2 cups white wine vinegar

Zi lb.

eels

Add the garlic and herbs.

leaf,

oil

mixture.

When

the eels are well

browned, add the vinegar, then the wine;

sage

rate,

let this

evapo-

then serve hot.

olive oil

2 lbs. eels, cleaned,

heads and skin removed All-purpose flour, for dredging Va

cup white wine vinegar Va

cup dry white wine

ANGUILLA ALLA GIOVESE

TOSCANA

1

EELS GIOYI-STYLE Heat 3 tablespoons of the

olive oil in a

heat. Saute the onion, celery, carrot, Va 1

cup extra-virgin

medium 1

olive oil

onion,

chopped

celery stalk,

chopped

CONTINUED

430

pan over medium and parsley

until

Add the tomatoes and salt and pepper to taste. Cook Chop together the garlic and until it begins to thicken. soft.

sage.

Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil

and cook the

garlic

in another

and sage over low heat until the

pan

garlic

carrot,

chopped

begins to take on color. Dust the eels with the flour, cut

flat-leaf parsley,

chopped

in lengths of a couple inches each,

1

1

bunch

plum tomatoes, peeled and chopped

2 lbs.

1

garlic clove

4 sage leaves

pan with the

eels to the

browned on cooked

all

sides

eels to the

and add

salt.

Add

and cook, turning,

garlic

and cooked through.

tomato sauce,

Transfer the

them soak up

let

the

until

the

few minutes, then serve.

flavor for a

2 lbs. eels, leaned, heads and skin removed

2tbsp. all-purpose flour Salt

and pepper

ANGUILLA ALLA LABRESE

LAZIO

EELS LABRESE-STYLE Cut the

eels into short lengths.

season with 2 lbs. eels, cleaned,

lemon

juice,

salt,

Put the

eels in a dish

pepper, orange and lemon zests, a

and bay

Let the

leaves.

eels

and little

marinate for

heads and skin removed

more than Grated zest of

the fire Grated zest and juice of

1

lemon

Bay leaves as needed Salt

Meanwhile, prepare a

2 hours.

grill, letting

orange

1

and pepper

burn down

to low.

Thread the pieces of eel on

a spit or several skewers crosswise, alternating each piece

of eel with a bay

Cook

leaf.

over charcoal very slowly.

Serve hot.

ANGUILLA ALLA MURANESE

VENETO

GLASSMAKER’S EEL This ancient recipe

comes

to us

from the glassmakers of

Murano, who used the heat of their glass furnaces to cook 1

large eel (about 2 skin

lbs.),

cleaned,

Cut the

eel in pieces

it.

about 2 Vi inches long, but don’t

and head removed

make the

cuts

all

the

way through, thus leaving the pieces

Vinegar

not completely separated one from the next.

Thor-

Bay leaves as needed

oughly rinse the

eel in

equal parts water and vinegar.

Salt

Arrange the lengths of eel curled

in a ring over a

bay leaves on the bed of a glass furnace,

salt,

bed of

and cover

with another abundant layer of bay leaves. Leave in the furnace about

cooking

eel

1

hour.

Naturally, this special

can be adapted to

home

way of

cooking, making

use of the oven while following the same procedure. Preheat the oven to 4 5 CPF. Place the eel in the oven and

cook for 2 hours. Lower the temperature by 50 degrees about every 20 minutes

until turning

it

off.

431

r

#

ANGUILLA

ALLEPRUGNE

VENETO

I

EEL WITH PLUMS This dish

is

skin

lbs.),

cleaned,

and head removed cup cornmeal

1

cup extra-virgin

Za 1

medium

olive oil

onion,

minced

garlic clove,

minced

or bianco

Remove

plums

(wild,

if

UMBRIA Zi lbs. eels,

add the plums and

Wash

Heat the

in pieces.

olive oil, onion,

raise the heat.

Brown

in

eel in

and

the eel,

then add the white wine. Let simmer 20 minutes.

SPIT-ROASTED EEL Heat

cleaned,

and heads removed

a rotisserie to

Juice of Za

cup

1

lemon

heat.

piece, dry,

Pour the vinegar over the

eels,

Cut the

and place

eels in sec-

in a bowl.

then the lemon juice and

olive oil; sprinkle

on

salt

and

let

the eels marinate for about 2 hours.

ents to blend

Thread the

and pepper.

on the

sections of eel

Stir these ingredi-

rotisserie skewer, in-

olive oil

Bay leaves as needed

cup breadcrumbs

Lemon Salt

medium

wash piece by

3 tbsp. white wine vinegar

1

it

pan over very low heat with the

tions, skin

in the corn-

cup white wine

ANGUILLA ALLO SPI EDO

1

it

with a paper towel.

it

possible),

halved and pitted Zi

Tart, wild

the freezer. Use Soave

the fat from the eel by dipping

cold water, pat dry, and cut

garlic; lb.

in

Custoza for the wine.

meal and then rubbing

a 1

1

di

and Treviso.

typical of Venice, Padua,

plums can be preserved year-round large eel (about 2

1

serting a

bay

leaf

between the

sections,

and

roast, turn-

ing the skewer over the heat and basting the eel with olive oil,

adding

salt,

and dusting with breadcrumbs.

slices

and pepper

When the pieces of eel have taken on a good golden tint, serve with slices of lemon.

CON

ANGUILLA LE VERZE

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

EEL WITH SAVOY CABBAGE Set aside several of the outer leaves of the cabbage, cut what remains into four parts, and simmer half of

5

lbs.

Savoy cabbage

2 lbs. medium-size eels, cleaned,

them

in 2

cups of water

each of the 1

tbsp.

Remove

eels into 3 or

half of the leaves.

4 lengths. To the cabbage

Cut

in the

tomato paste

pan, add the Salt

eels, salt,

and

a generous

amount of pep-

and pepper per.

Cover with the remaining cabbage and add the

tomato paste. occasionally.

432

until soft.

cabbage from the pan and add half the raw

and heads removed

skin

Cook

for about

1

hour, shaking the pan

FRIED EEL

ANGUILLA FRITTA

VENETO

This dish It is

Several small eels (aboyt 2 total),

lbs.

flower

heads removed oil

and

for frying

oil in a

towels. Salt

Salt

ANGUILLA IN UMIDO ALLA LARI AN A

Cut the lbs.,

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

Zi in

eel in short lengths (2 inches), salt

and

celery.

Add

herbs.

and pepper

Chop

flour.

Heat the

saute the vegetables until soft.

oil

together

and butter and

the pieces of eel,

Let

it all

cook over

high heat for 5 minutes, then pour in the wine. Lower the heat

and cover the pan.

When it has

finished cook-

oil

ing,

2tbsp. unsalted butter

soaked

and drain on pieces of paper

mushrooms, tomatoes, and

carrot

celery stalk

1

oil

serve.

the onion, carrot,

medium onion 1

with the flour

eels

they are a good golden color, re-

them, then dust them with the

cup all-purpose flour 1

the

eels into pieces

For the wine use Bonarda or rosso della Valtellina.

cleaned, skin and head removed Vi

Dust the

until hot.

When

and

Cut the

Heat a couple of inches of sun-

STEWED EEL

LOMBARDIA large eel, weighing about 2

pan

fry them.

move them from

All-purpose flour, for dredging

1

typical of the province of Treviso.

about 2 inches long.

cleaned, skin and

Sunflower

is

best to use smaller-size eels.

remove the bunch of herbs before

serving.

cup dried mushrooms,

warm water and chopped 2 plum tomatoes, peeled 1

bunch aromatic herbs

(sage, flat-leaf parsley, thyme,

bay leaves), tied with string 2 cups red wine Salt

ANGUILLA

and pepper

IN

UMIDO

COI PISELLI

VENETO

1

STEWED EEL WITH PEAS Serve this with a side dish of polenta.

Heat half the Zi

cup extra-virgin

olive oil it

Zi

Zi

medium onion cup white wine

CONTINUED

olive oil in a

pan and cook the onion

turns golden, then remove and add the wine.

until

Add the

tomatoes, peas, broth, and vinegar and continue cooking.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining

olive oil in

another

pan, add the bay leaves, and cook the eels until they

433

Vz lb.

plum tomatoes, peeled lb.

1

peas

2 cups broth 2 cups white wine vinegar

render out

all

their fat.

Remove

the -eels

from the pan,

dust them with flour, and add to the tomato mixture.

Cook

for a

few minutes. Season

and

to taste with salt

pepper.

2 bay leaves 2 lbs. eels, cleaned, skin

and heads removed,

cut into 2- to 2 1/2 -inch pieces

All-purpose flour Salt

ANGUILLA

and pepper

UMIDO

IN

CON

PISELLI

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

STEWED EEL WITH PEAS This dish

Cut the 2 lbs. eels, cleaned, skin

is

typical of Piacenza.

eels in lengths of

about

Dust

to 2 inches.

1 Vi

the pieces of eel with the flour. Heat the olive

and

oil

and heads removed

and brown the

butter in a saucepan

on

eels

all

sides,

2tbsp. all-purpose flour

turning, over 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

medium-high heat; set aside.

Finely chop

oil

and

the celery, carrot, parsley, onion,

garlic; saute these

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

same pan with

in the 1

1

Vz

cup chopped

flat-leaf

Vz

1

carrot

parsley

medium onion 1

garlic clove

sprig rosemary,

tied with 4

the sprig of rosemary for a few

celery stalk

sage leaves 1

Vz

lb.

minutes.

Remove

and broth and

the herb and discard.

half-cooked and

still

When

mix.

stir to

firm,

Add

the peas

the peas are about

add the tomatoes or tomato

When the peas are fully cooked, add the eels and

puree.

continue simmering until the eels are cooked through, stirring the

mixture and adding

salt

and pepper

to taste.

peas

cup broth

2 cups chopped fresh plum

tomatoes or tomato puree Salt

and pepper

ANGUILLA MARINATA

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

MARINATED EEL This dish

is

typical of Ferrara.

Using a sharp 2 lbs. medium-size eels, cleaned, skin and heads

move

knife,

open the

eels lengthwise

away

the bones, carefully rinsing

all

blood.

and

re-

Heat

removed

2 inches of olive

oil in

a large

pan

until hot.

Cut the

eels

Olive oil for frying

into 3-inch lengths, dredge

them

well in the flour, sprin-

All-purpose flour, for dredging

CONTINUED

kle with salt,

pletely

434

and

fry,

turning several times until com-

browned. Transfer

to a large

flameproof pan.

3 cups white wine vinegar

Meanwhile, mix the vinegar, sage

10 sage leaves

saucepan. Bring

2 garlic cloves

making sure they

Salt

(add water

if

this to a boil

leaves,

are completely covered

them

used

ANGUILLE CON LA CICORIA D

CAMPO

I

CAMPANIA

When

lb.

wild chicory (can substitute

the eels have

seal.

EEL WITH WILD CHICORY This dish

is

typical of the Mazzoni di Capua.

Parboil the chicory, drain, 1

eels,

by the liquid

in glass jars rinsed with the vinegar

marinade and hermetically

in the

garlic in a

Put the pan over heat and

necessary).

bring to a boil for a few minutes. cooled, put

and

and pour over the

a weight over to drain

and leave

well.

it

in the colander with

Heat half the

olive oil in

store-bought chicory)

% cup extra-virgin olive

chopped

2 garlic cloves,

%

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

lb.

1

1

1

a

medium

Zi oz. lard

onion, sliced

cleaned, skin and heads

Yi lbs. eels,

removed, cut Pinch

pan over low heat and saute the

garlic.

Add

the toma-

oil

in

4-inch lengths

chili

pepper flakes

toes, raise the heat,

add

salt,

and cook for 20 minutes.

In a saucepan heat the lard and remaining olive

medium

heat.

brown, put

Add

the onion and

in the chicory, letting

then add the

eels, chili

At

5 minutes.

pepper, and

this point,

to the size of the eels,

it

when

cook for

salt

over

oil

the onion 1

is

0 minutes,

and cook

for about

add the sauce and, according

cook for about 20 minutes.

Salt

ANGUILLE E TROTE SALSA PICCANTE

IN

SARDEGNA

EELS AND TROUT IN

A SPICY SAUCE

Cut each of the in four pieces.

3 trout (about

1

cleaned

Zi lbs.),

4 medium-size eels (about cleaned, skin and heads

1

Zi lbs.),

hot.

Mix

trout in three pieces

Heat

1

and each of the

inch of olive

the semolina and flour with a

oil in

little salt

In another pan, heat 2 tablespoons of olive

oil

and saute

oil

cup semolina

of water.

add the tomato paste and Z2 cup

After 5 minutes add

salt,

the vinegar, and

cup all-purpose flour chili

4 garlic cloves, 1

Zi

and dust

the eel with this mixture. Fry, turning, until golden.

the garlic until golden; Zi

eels

until

removed

Extra-virgin olive Zi

pan

a

chopped

cup tomato paste

cup white wine vinegar 1

dried

chili

pepper

pepper.

The

eventual sauce should be

somewhat

dense; put the pieces of trout and eel in the sauce, which

should cover them completely.

and

if

Let cool completely

possible put off serving until the next day. Reheat

before serving. Salt

435

LOCAL TRADITION

ANGUILLA INFILZATA In

Friuli-Venezia Giulia they identify three different kinds of eels

used

in

their cuisine:

the bisato fiuman (river eel), bisato marin or grongo (sea eel), and the bisato de paluo, an eel that in

swims upriver from the sea

the area’s renowned fish soup recipes

dish, eels

would be cut

skewers for

into

grilling over a

—

in

for

springtime and its

segments, with the skin

wood

fire.

prized

is

and

thin skin left

especially

Tradition dictated that the skewers be obtained

from a plank that had been eroded by seawater, so that the sea the

—

fine flavor. For this

and threaded onto wooden

on,

itself

would flavor

eel.

IN

ANGUILLE GINOCCHIONI

TOSCANA

EEL IN SAUCE This dish, typical of the Fuecchio

marshes

at Ponte Buggia-

nese and Massarella, should be served with polenta. 1

cleaned,

lb. eel,

skin and head

Cut the

eel into lengths IV2 to 2 inches long.

the olive

oil in a

removed

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

pan (earthenware,

heat and add the 1

lb.

if

Heat

possible) over low

oil

eel,

tomatoes, herbs, garlic, onion, and

tomatoes, chopped and peeled salt

and pepper

Simmer

to taste.

until the eel

is

cooked

Handful of aromatic herbs (sage, parsley, thyme, bay leaves) 1

garlic clove, sliced

medium

1

through.

onion, sliced

Salt

and pepper

ARAGOSTA BOLLITA

SARDEGNA

BOILED LOBSTER This dish

is

typical of Cala Gonone.

Fold the lobster claws inward and 1

medium-size lobster

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

Juice of

1

oil

lemon

2 tbsp. white wine vinegar

twine.

soon

as

Immerse it is

the water.

and cut

it

in a

When along

it is

its it

tie it

with kitchen

As

pot of boiling salted water.

cooked, take

meat and divide

436

it

it

cool

off the heat

enough

and

it

cool in

to handle, lay

entire length. Carefully

in medallions a

let

little

it

out

remove the

more than

14

inch

.

and arrange on a serving

in length

yellowish liquid (tomalley) and juice,

and vinegar

to

Collect

plate.

mix with

Pour

form a thin sauce.

its

lemon

olive oil, this

sauce

over the medallions of lobster and use the roe (coral, there

BACCALA MBRIACHE

I

is

COD IN WINE Generally, throughout

MOLISE

Italy,

salt-dried cod (and this lb.

1

or

more

(see note)

Z2 cup

extra-virgin olive 1

1

medium

is

baccala

is

the

get rid of

name used

much soaking to

intense salinity before cooking. Put

its

for

not to be confused with the un-

salted stoccafisso) Salt-dried cod requires

salt-dried cod

if

any) and the larger claws to garnish. Serve cold.

in

it

a large

container and cover with cold water, cover, and refrigerate

oil

for

bay leaf

two days, changing the water often

possible. Drain, and

onion, finely sliced

move the

2 cups dry white wine

Cut the cod

it

—every

eight hours

you are not working with

if

fillets, re-

in pieces

and soak

in water to cover 2 to

4

Preheat the oven to 4 5 CPF. Drain the cod and

hours.

put

if

skin and bones at this point.

in a

baking pan. Drizzle with the olive

oil,

the bay leaf and onion, and wine to cover.

then add

Bake

until

into a

pan

completely cooked, about 20 minutes.

BACCALA agghiotta SICILIA

I

COD IN SAUCE This dish

is

typical of Messina.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Pour the olive

Z2 cup 1

extra-virgin olive

oil

medium

onion, finely

chopped

1

celery stalk,

chopped

%

lb.

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 1

Vi lbs. salt-dried cod,

soaked, drained, and cut

in

pieces

(see note above) 1

1

tbsp. pine nuts

tbsp. raisins, softened

warm water and 1

tbsp. pitted green olives, 1

2

(preferably terra-cotta)

when

oil

and add the onion and

they have browned, add the tomatoes.

celery;

Continue

cooking a few minutes, then add the cod and cook awhile

Add

to soak

up

capers,

and potatoes; add

When

the flavors.

the liquid in the

heat and cover the pan. for about

1

the pine nuts, raisins, olives, salt

and pepper

pan begins

to taste.

to boil, turn off the

Transfer to the oven and bake

hour, until the potatoes are tender.

in

drained

chopped

tbsp. capers

medium

potatoes,

peeled and cubed Salt

and pepper

437

BACCALA ALLA BRACE

PUGLIA

GRILLED COD Divide the cod into .8 pieces and remove the

bowl prepare a sauce by combining the 2

cod, softened

lbs. salt-dried

in

pepper, a pinch of

and

salt,

Add

parsley.

water for 2 days (see note, page 437)

Heat the

marinate for a few hours. 5 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

Grill the cod, turning

ing

chopped

Salt

them from time

them with the sauce

and

high heat.

and pepper

BACCALA ALLA CAPPUCCINA

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

to time

and brush-

which they were marinated.

in

parsley

flat-leaf

the cod

grill to

oil

2 tbsp. white wine vinegar 2 tbsp.

In a

skin.

olive oil, vinegar,

Serve hot.

COD IN SAUCE For the wine use Ribolla gialla, malvasia istriana, or Vitorska.

Serve piping hot with very soft yellow polenta. 1

Zz lbs.

unsalted dried cod, soaked

and drained (see

page 491)

note,

Remove

the skin

somewhat

and bones from the cod, cut

large pieces,

and dust them with the

All-purpose flour, for dredging

Heat Olive

medium white

Zz

inch of olive

a high-sided

oil in

saucepan and

close to

one another

chopped

onion, finely

Spread the onion over them.

without spaces in between. bay

1

leaf

Add the bay leaf, sardines, pine nuts, raisins, lemon zest,

chopped

2 sardines, cleaned and

sugar, cinnamon, citron, chocolate,

Z3 cup

into

flour.

oil

add the cod, arranging the pieces 1

it

salt,

and pepper.

pine nuts

Cover with 2 cups broth, bring Z3 cup golden

to a boil, then reduce the

raisins

heat to low and cook very slowly for about 3 hours withZest of

1

lemon

out 1

tsp.

stirring,

only gendy shaking the pan from time to

sugar

time to keep the cod from sticking to the bottom.

Add

Pinch cinnamon Zz

piece of candied citron, chopped

Pinch grated dark chocolate 2 cups fish broth,

plus

more as needed

Zz Zz

more broth

When and bake

if

the broth

let it

until

is

finally

evaporate. it

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

needed.

absorbed, add the white wine

Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and

forms a crusty surface.

cup white wine

cup breadcrumbs Salt

and pepper

BACCALA ALLA FIORENTIN A

TOSCANA

COD FLORENCE-STYLE Begin by preparing the sauce. Heat 2 tbsp.

olive oil in a

pan (preferably earthenware) and slowly saute the For the sauce: 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

CONTINUED

438

and half of the the tomatoes.

garlic clove.

Add

salt

leek

When these take color, add

and pepper

low heat while preparing the cod.

to taste

and cook

at

In another pan, heat

1

3

A

chopped

leek, finely

garlic clove, cut in half

1

lb.

plum tomatoes,

ripe

peeled an2 lbs. veal loin, in

tbsp.

tripe.

and

oil in

a pan.

until fragrant.

Add

add the tomato puree and warm broth.

and cook at low heat.

Cover

After the meat has cooked

about 10 minutes, add the potatoes and continue cook-

small pieces

tomato puree

warm

cup

of

olive

oil

salt 1

all

When the meat has browned well on

salt.

Continue cooking slowly, tasting for

ing at low heat. 1

When Heat the

From time to time add

pepper.

from boiling the

Heat over medium heat and cook

1

with the parsley and a

meat parts (except the

separately). it

it,

tripe in

VEAL STEW

A few sage leaves

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

Put the

care.

the meats with the tomato paste, oregano,

onion, and

leaf,

After

tripe.

beginning the process of cleaning

in pieces,

a ladleful of the liquid

1

of

tripe (setting aside the water)

which should be done with great

bay

SPEZZATINO

made

28).

spleen

buncl> flat-leaf parsley

1

]A

(veal or pork),

and pepper, and serve when the meat and potatoes

veal broth

are cooked, about 25 minutes. lb.

1

peeled and cut Salt

SPEZZATO

D

I

potatoes, in

pieces

and pepper

MONTONE ABRUZZO

MUTTON STEW Use this sauce on spaghetti or homemade pasta. For the wine use Trebbiano.

2 tbsp. lard oi. lardo,

1

1

chopped

carrot,

chopped

1

1

1

lb.

minced

celery stalk,

medium

onion, sliced

mutton, cut /i

%

lb.

in

Heat the lard

in a

pan and saute the

and onion. Add the meat. add

salt

lardo, celery, carrot,

When the meat has browned,

and pepper and pour in the white wine; then add

the tomatoes.

Simmer

until the

meat

is

cooked through,

about 30 minutes.

pieces

cup white wine

plum tomatoes, chopped

peeled, seeded, and Salt

and pepper

649

0 SPIEDINI

Dl

BUDELLA D POLLO

I

I

I

CALABRIA

*

SKEWERED CHICKEN GIZZARDS This dish

is

typical of Reggio Calabria.

Clean the gizzards; rub them with coarse 1

lb.

chicken gizzards Juice of

1

fully rinse in

lemon

the gizzards

Chicken broth, as needed

Coarse

salt,

water acidulated with lemon

then care-

juice.

Put

on reed or wooden skewers and simmer

broth to cover.

Serve hot with

slices

in

of toasted peasant-

salt

style bread.

Sliced peasant-style bread, toasted

LOCAL TRADITION

SPIEDO BRESCIANO OR POLENTA E UCCELLI Two schools in

of thought divide the preparation of this dish,

from the province of Brescia

Lombardy, known as polenta and birds. Closer to the province

birds and pork loin are cooked cia

in

loin

ingredients, including ribs, rabbit, potatoes, and even eel, are

that involved only the birds and pork

would be

loin sliced,

lightly fried in

Bergamo, the between Bres-

are cooked exclusively on a rotisserie. Other

the area between the Valsabbia and the Valtenesi.

and the pork

of

a large pan. Conversely, in the area

and Lake Garda, the birds and

loin,

In

the

more

the birds would

sometimes added

in

traditional preparation

be thoroughly cleaned

first

then the slices pounded thin and rolled up. A few sage leaves butter and olive

oil in

a hot pan; these fried sage leaves

would

be threaded onto the skewer between the different meats. Slices of potato were also

commonly used

to separate the portions of meat. The birds,

if

small,

would be put on

either end of the skewer. The skewers would then be cooked on a rotisserie over a

drip pan atop a fire of olive or vine wood, basted regularly with the drippings, for at least four hours. Finally, the

commonly

cooked meats would be served with fresh polenta, and

a salad.

STENTINIELLI D’AGNELLO

ALLA MUGLIATIELLO

CAMPANIA

I

ROAST INTESTINES This dish will be even tastier garlic, the intestines

2 oz. lard 2 lbs. lamb or kid intestines

CONTINUED

650

are

if,

filled

in

6

FOR PERSONS

addition to the parsley and

with hard-boiled eggs, salame,

and fresh provola or provolone. Preheat the oven to 350°F or heat a high. Grease a baking

pan with

lard.

grill to

medium-

Clean the intestines

1

bunch

flat-leaf

parsley

in tepid salted water, then rinse well

in

large pieces

water.

Salt

and pepper

garlic

2 garlic cloves, cut

Wrap them around and

tie

them shut

baking pan, add roast

STINCO D MAI ALE 1

AL FORNO

ALTO ADIGE

on a

salt

grill until

under cold running

several stalks of parsley

Put them

like roll-ups.

and pepper, and bake

in the

and

in the

oven or

cooked through, about 30 minutes.

BAKED PORK SHANKS Serve accompanied by roast potatoes or a fresh green salad.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Set the shanks in a baking 4 young pork shanks (hocks)

Zi 1

medium

4

oz. lard

cup

olive oil

onion, cut

in

half

sprig rosemary

1

cup dry white wine,

such as Pinot Bianco Broth (optional)

STINCO

Dl

sprinkle over the lard, olive

garlic cloves,

2 garlic cloves

Vi

pan and

MONTONE AL FORNO ABRUZZO

Turn

and rosemary.

them well and put the pan

oil,

onion, whole

the shanks to coat

When they have

in the oven.

browned, add the white wine; when the wine evaporates

add 2 inches of broth or water: the shanks should never

Reduce

be without liquid. for about

1

the heat to

325°F and braise

% hours, turning the shanks and basting from

time to time. Serve the shanks

when cooked and

tender.

BAKED MUTTON SHANK Preheat the oven to 475°F. Heat the olive

oil,

butter,

and

whatever herbs you prefer in an ovenproof pan; add the 2tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

Several sprigs herbs

(rosemary, sage, bay leaves, 1

shank and cook

turning and basting the shank often and lowering the heat to 325°F halfway through the cooking time. just

Slice

before serving.

Dl VITELLO AL BAROLO

VEAL SHANK WITH BAROLO WINE

PIEMONTE

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lard the shank with half the carrots

1

veal

shank

4 carrots, chopped 1

browned, then add the wine.

etc).

mutton shank

2 cups white wine, such as Trebbiano

STINCO

until

Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for about 3 hours,

sprig rosemary

CONTINUED

and rosemary. Heat the

olive oil

and the

an ovenproof pan and brown the shank.

maining vegetables and herbs, and

When

salt

Add

lardo in

the re-

and pepper.

everything has browned, add the wine and bring

to a boil.

After a few minutes transfer the pan to the

651

Zi

4

cup

olive oil

oz. lardo,

diced

2 celery stalks, chopped 3

medium 1

onions, sliced leek,

chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

oven and bake for 3 hours, turning to time so that

add

a

little

it

When

broth.

tfie

remains moist and the

meat

meat from time

soft; if necessary,

cooked remove

is

from the pan and pass the cooking juices through thickening

them with

a

little

potato starch

if

shank and serve warm, covered with

Slice the

it

a sieve,

needed. sauce.

its

A few sage leaves bay leaf

1

bottle Barolo

1

Broth 1

tbsp. potato starch Salt

wine

(if

needed)

(if

needed)

and pepper

STRACOTTO ALLA PARMIGI AN A

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

PARMA-STYLE BEEF STEW This

is

6

the principal player

in

the preparation of stuffing for

anolini (see pages 97 and 98), but 3 14 lbs. beef (from the leg) 1

medium

its

chopped

Put the meat

in a

carrot,

chopped

and

Add

celery stalk,

chopped

1

garlic clove,

minced 4 cloves

Pinch ground cinnamon 3 bay leaves

Red wine (enough to cover the meat)

garlic.

also an excellent

meat

the cloves, cinnamon,

Cover the pan and

from the marinade and drain from the marinade and Heat the

refrigerate

it

it;

strain the vegetables

set aside; also set aside the liquid.

olive oil, butter,

the meat, add

Add

celery,

and bay leaves

At the end of that time remove the meat

24 hours.

utes. 3 tbsp. olive

is

saucepan with the onion, carrot,

and cover with the wine. for

it

own. For the wine use Valpolicella or Sangiovese.

onion, finely 1

1

dish on

FOR PERSONS

to the pan,

the vegetables

and

lardo in a saucepan; flour

and brown

for about

1

5

min-

from the marinade and saute

oil

them.

Salt

and pepper

to taste, then

pour

in the liquid

3 tbsp. unsalted butter

from the marinade and broth. 2 oz. lardo, finely

chopped

heat for 5 hours.

Then remove

Cover and cook the

at

low

meat from the pan

All-purpose flour for dredging 8

cups broth, warmed

and

slice

it;

pass the cooking juices through a sieve and

pour over the meat before serving. Salt

and pepper

STRACOTTO ALLA PI

ACENTI N A

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

PIACENZA- STYLE BEEF STEW For the wine use Gutturnio or Sangiovese.

Prepare a good Piacenza-style pestata di lardo (“finely 1

small piece lardo 1

chopped

garlic clove lic,

CONTINUED

652

and

lardo”), finely

parsley.

chopping together the

Heat the butter

onion and lardo mixture.

in a

Salt the

lardo, gar-

pan and add the

meat and add

it

to

1

small bunch flat-leaf parsley

the

]4

cup (4tbsp.) unsalted butter

as

small onion, minced

1

1

1

beef leg

lb.

celery stalk, finely

chopped

carrot, finely

chopped

1

pan along with the celery and

much tomato

this

simmer gently

needed

Add to Add the wine.

carrot.

puree as desired.

this

Let

for 4 to 5 hours, adding broth as

keep the meat moist and cooking with the pan

to

covered.

Tomato puree Aged red wine (enough to cover the meat) Broth, as

needed Salt

STRACOTTO

Dl ASINO ALLA PAESANA

LOMBARDIA

DONKEY STEW Typical

the 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

2tbsp. unsalted butter 2

medium 1

onions, finely sliced

and ancient rural this

hills,

is

a

tradition, both

method

of using the

in

carrots,

chopped

In a large pan, heat the olive

donkey meat

onions, celery, and carrots.

lb.

lbs.

1

and

3 whole cloves

cloves

3 garlic cloves

kle with

Pinch grated nutmeg bottle red

wine

(preferably aged Barbera) Broth, as

needed

STRACOTTO Dl MANZO AL FORNO NEL PIGNATTO LAZIO

in

quadrupeds

the area of Mantua and along is

it

frequently encountered.

Beef can be used.

chopped

4^2

of

(donkey or horse) after their lifetime of service. The dish has

spread to rural restaurants

the banks of the Po River, where

celery stalk, 1

on the plains and

meat

garlic cloves.

and butter and saute the

oil

Stud the meat with the

Add the meat to the pan, sprin-

nutmeg, and brown for about 10 minutes.

Simmer over low

in the entire bottle of wine.

2 hours, with the pan covered. If

add broth cut

it

as needed.

in slices,

When

and cover with

it

Pour

heat for

dries out too

much,

cooked, remove the meat,

its

sauce before serving.

THE 'FIFTH QUARTER” BEEF STEW This dish’s dialect name, Pignattaccia, refers to the earthen-

ware pot

in

which

it

is

traditionally cooked.

It is

made

using

lesser cuts of beef (belly, diaphragm), which are muscular

and thus less quinto quarto

costly, along with (“fifth

of these parts,

head,

tail,

those referred to as the

quarter”) on the theory that the weight

which no one usually wants

hooves, and tripe

—was equal

— including the

to one quarter of

the slaughtered animal’s weight. Because of their collagen,

these pieces together with the various vegetables (most of all

the celery) give this dish

Today,

it

is

made

with

its

special, pleasing flavor.

more expensive muscular

parts, but

653

*

# /i

cup white wine whole cloves

2

2 lbs. mixed beef (belly, shank, head,

tongue, tripe), cut

tail,

in

pieces

4 potatoes, peeled and cut

1-inch-thick slices

in

Extra-virgin olive

chopped

2 carrots,

chopped

1

large onion,

chopped

4 plum tomatoes,

diavolillo (hot chili pepper,

chopped

22),

Salt

Mix the

Dl

white wine and cloves.

lightiy salted

and pepper

SOMARO

EMILIA-ROMAGNA 2 cups dry red wine

toes. salt,

Cover this with

a layer of meat, season with olive

and pepper, then make a

carrots, onion, tomatoes, chili pepper)

ing layers in this way, using

and ending with a liquid

1

lb.

DONKEY STEW This dish

is

typical of

Modena. Serve with in

a side dish of slices

place of the donkey.

For the wine use Sangiovese or Valpolicella.

and

refrigerate for several hours.

At

time drain the meat. Heat the olive

oil in

carrot,

chopped

loin of

donkey

extra-virgin olive

oil

Add

the

the

meat

end of

that

a large saucepan

and brown the meat. Add the remaining wine.

After

about 10 minutes, add the tomatoes and simmer for about 2 hours, tasting for

cooked

set

it

aside

a sieve; serve the

and pepper.

salt

and

meat

strain the

When

the

meat

is

cooking juices through

hot, covered with

its

sauce.

peeled plum tomatoes

and pepper

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

BEEF STEW In

the past

it

was the custom

(typical of Imola)

cup (4tbsp.) unsalted butter cup extra-virgin

olive oil

CONTINUED

654

can be used

bay leaf

STRACOTTO ROMAGNOLO

14

beef is tender, about 3 hours.

until the

half the wine with the sage, cloves, bay leaf, garlic,

Salt

14

then

and cover with

pepper, nutmeg, celery, and carrot.

chopped

cup

foil

this the

all,

it

salt,

Pinch grated nutmeg

Y*

to cover

5 cloves

celery stalk,

lb.

components

Pour over

layer of potatoes.

cover the pot with a sheet of aluminum

Bake

Continue mak-

.

the various

Mix

3 garlic cloves

1

up

from the marinade, enough

lid.

oil,

layer of vegetables (celery,

5 sage leaves

1

1

At

earthenware baking dish (pignatta ), make a layer of pota-

of toasted polenta. Beef

1

Add the beef and enough

water to cover. Refrigerate a few hours.

the end of that time drain the meat, reserving the liquid.

the

STRACOTTO

It

typical of Viterbo.

Preheat the oven to 300°F. In the bottom of a large

celery stalk,

see note, page

is

oil

1

peeled and chopped 1

always with the addition of those from the quinto quarto.

Heat half the butter and the carrots

meat and

to

add red wine to this dish

together with the water.

and onions.

olive oil in a large

Make

pan and saute

a small incision in the

insert the garlic clove into

it.

When

the

medium

vegetables have taken a

chopped

2 carrots, finely 2

onions, finely chopped

it

1

garlic clove

Yi

cups tomato puree

/a

cup dry white wine

add the meat, turning

cups as needed), tomato puree, and the remaining but-

11b. beef leg 1

color,

little

After a few minutes add water (1 or 2

constantly.

and

ter

hours.

olive

oil.

When

the

Simmer meat

is

gently until tender, about 3

almost cooked, add the wine.

LOCAL TRADITION

STRACOTTO

Dl

PECORA

lamb stew traces

This very basic rustic recipe for

its

origins back centuries to the

Hungarian and Saracen shepherds who occupied the Alpine pass within the valley of Corteno

upper

Golgi, in the

Val

Camonica,

in

Lombardy, reaching

its

height during the

late

nineteenth century at the instigation of Albanian immigrants. Then, as now, tradi-

tion

saw this

dish

most often eaten during

accompanied by smoked polenta. Preference this

is

ricotta (in

and celebrations

at

home,

times, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano) and

given to the local breed of small “Cortenese” sheep, although

unique and indigenous breed

larger and

festive occasions

modern

is

slowly disappearing through crossbreeding with

more common Bergamo sheep.

common

As with the lamb or mutton dishes

during the transhumance, this stew’s

recipe would begin with cutting a lamb or sheep weighing between 50 and 65 pounds into portions

and placing

it

into a pot or

cauldron with some

mary. The stew would be cooked at low heat over a

burn down to embers for

five to six

wood

hours, until the meat

would traditionally be salted and preserved under

fat to

fat

fire that

and sage or rose-

had been allowed to

was tender. Any

leftovers

be eaten as a room tempera-

ture snack later with boiled potatoes.

I

STUFATINO COL SELLERO

LAZIO

I

BEEF STEW WITH CELERY This dish

is

typical of

6

Rome.

It

was

originally

meat taken from the front quarter 4

oz.

prosciutto fat

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

medium

oil

onion, finely sliced

2 garlic cloves, finely

chopped

CONTINUED

jargon of

Roman butchers

Heat the prosciutto saute the onion

golden, add the meat, the

made from lean known in the

of an ox,

as pulcio.

fat in the olive oil

and

FOR PERSONS

garlic. salt,

and

When

over low heat and

this

begins to turn

a pinch of pepper.

meat has browned, turn up the heat

to

When

medium-high

655

2

and pour

lean beef chuck, cut crosswise

lbs.

in

/2 -inch-thick

slices

cup dry red wine,

Zz

When

in the red wine.

the wine evaporates,

add the tomato puree, tomatoes, and

basil.

Reduce the

heat to low and simmer gently for 3 hours.

If

such as Chianti Classico

Zz

1

spoons of water, doing

cups plum tomatoes, peeled,

lb.

1

STUFATO

2K

lbs. 1

cup extra-virgin

mutton or

medium

onion, finely Zz

1

bunch

cut

kid,

olive oil

in

chopped

Salt

When

medium-low

over

move them from

and pepper

1

LOMBARDIA

another

FQR persons

pan and saute the meat and

meat has browned and the onion Salt

and pepper

to taste

Cook

celery.

Meanwhile,

heat.

in lightly salted water to cover until

potatoes

D MAI ALE

the

6

add the wine.

translucent,

1

the water

for

them and chop them

them

meat

to the

for the last

and serve

boil the potatoes

about half done; re-

and when cool enough

handle, peel

time. Stir well

STUFATO

let it rest for

30 minutes, add the tomatoes, and continue cooking

plum tomatoes, peeled lb.

olive oil in a large

onion.

After the

pan from the

the

plates.

and add Z2 cup warm water and the

cup red wine

1

Heat the

is

pieces

celery, cut in small pieces

Zz lb.

necessary but

MUTTON STEW WITH POTATOES

1

PUGLIA Zi

Remove

celery.

30 minutes. Serve on warmed

and pepper

CASTRATO CON PATATE

D

this as often as

heat and, with the lid removed,

celery, cut in 4-inch lengths

Salt

hour add the

first

chopped

during

too much, add 2 table-

being careful not to overly dilute the sauce.

seeded, drained, and chopped 4 basil leaves,

down

that time the sauce cooks

cup tomato puree

Vz

1

into large chunks.

5 minutes of

its

to

Add

cooking

hot.

PORK STEW This dish

is

typical of Lecco

and the Valsassina. Serve with

polenta and Barbera. 2

lbs.

pork or boar

3 carrots, cut 1

oz.

in

loin

Cut

short lengths

Put

pancetta, diced 3 bay leaves

2 cups dry red wine

in the

slits it

in

meat and

insert the carrots

an earthenware or

the bay leaves

stainless-steel

Refrigerate 24 hours.

and wine.

liquid.

Dry

in a large

the meat,

tie it

up, and flour

pan and brown the meat.

All-purpose flour for dredging

add the grappa and

let it

evaporate.

it.

the

pan

in

which

it

marinated; use a

cup grappa

the cooking juices in the

in

colored,

Transfer the meat to little

wine to loosen

which the meat browned

13)

and add them lid

656

pan

Heat the butter

When it has

3 tbsp. unsalted butter Zi

Preheat

the oven to 300°F. Drain the marinade, reserving the

(preferably a strong Barbera)

Bread dough (see page

and pancetta.

baking pan with

to the meat.

Cover, sealing the edge of the

with some rolled bread dough, and bake 4 hours.

TACCHINA ARROSTA AL

MELOGRANO

VENETO

ROAST TURKEY WITH POMEGRANATE Traditionally, a

female turkey

is

used for this dish. Serve the

roast bird with potatoes, a green salad, and 1

weighing about 6 Vi

cup CA

young turkey,

lbs.,

lb.)

with giblets

unsalted butter

Pancetta 2

pomegranates

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive Salt

Prepare a rotisserie with a drip pan.

chop them, and

it

Wash

set aside.

Remove

the giblets,

the turkey inside

and

out and pat dry; butter the cavity and then lard the bird

Put the turkey on the

well using strips of pancetta.

oil

and pepper

accompany

with an aromatic red wine.

and roast

it

on the

rotisserie for

spit

about IVz hours.

Meanwhile, prepare the pomegranate sauce: peel the pomegranates, extracting the seeds, and use a potato

masher

(or food processor) to crush them, collecting the

(which should then be strained)

juice

.

About halfway

through the cooking time pour about half of over the turkey. Heat the olive

seasoning with pepper, ate sauce.

When

salt,

oil

this juice

and saute the

giblets,

and some of the pomegran-

the turkey

is

cooked, cut

it

in pieces

and cover with the sauce.

LOCAL TRADITION

TACCHINO ALLA CANZANESE This delicious and seductive recipe, typical of Canzano

mired for

its flavor,

to thirteen

lightness,

pounds would be

and

nutrition.

well cleaned

in

Abruzzo, has long been ad-

A turkey weighing approximately eleven

and halved lengthwise. The breastbones

would be removed and the other bones, especially the longer ones, crushed. The key would then be placed into a terra-cotta pot with

some

garlic, a sprig of

tur-

rosemary,

white wine, and salt and black peppercorns and just covered with boiling water. The pot would then be placed into a wood-burning oven to cook for four hours, after which

time more wood would be added to the

fire

and the turkey turned and

other four hours. After removing the turkey from the oven, to rest up to twelve hours before serving, its

many

it

left

to

cook an-

was traditionally allowed

which helped preserve the

dish,

another of

virtues.

657

0

TACCHINO

NATALE

Dl

I

LOMBARDIA

r

CHRISTMAS TURKEY This

eaten hot on Christmas

is

in

Monza; the leftovers are

eaten cold on the day of the Epiphany, with 1

4

oz.

pancetta, chopped

Preheat the oven to 300°F.

4tbsp. unsalted butter 2‘sprigs

The

the

empty place of

the

rest of

the pancetta inside the turkey with a lot of salt (turkey

fat from inside a veal kidney, from which the film has been removed, finely chopped

more bland than other

up the

Salt

fat,

and roast

at

oil.

low heat for

Tie

at least

has taken on a good golden color on the bird

is

cooked, take the

450°F

raise the heat to

and make the skin

liquid

PIEMONTE

it

When

sides.

pan and

I

remaining butter, and olive

turkey, cover,

6 hours, until all

is

and rose-

birds), half the butter,

Cover the bottom of a pan (preferably copper)

mary.

with the kidney oil

tapulone

Fill

chopped pancetta and put the

turkey’s gullet with

rosemary

3tbsp. extra-virgin olive

mostarda

fruit

and a salad made of greens grown under the snow.

turkey, weighing about 13 lbs.

to dry

up

lid

off the

the remaining

crisp.

DONKEY AND CABBAGE STEW Tapulone

is

derived from tapule, meaning the knife that

was

used to cut up the hard meat of an old donkey, which could be rendered edible only

3 tbsp. unsalted butter 1

1

tbsp. olive

Zi oz. lardo,

in

oil

cloves have browned,

2 bay leaves

Brown

meat

and

When

lardo

and

the garlic

remove and discard them; add the

meat

the cloves is

When

and

well broken

salt

and pepper.

up and

dry, then

the wine has evaporated, add

the broth, cover the pan,

cup dry red wine

and cook

at

low heat for 30

40 minutes. In the end the meat should be very

to

soft.

cup beef froth

Salt

and pepper

TEGAMACCIO CON L’ANATRA

TOSCANA

I

FISH

STEW WITH DUCK

This stew can als0 be used to sauce

and

is

Heat over

658

oil,

leaves.

cook, adding the meat and breaking

Add

a fork. until the

add the wine.

(preferably Barbera) 1

up with

this

and bay

in strips

lean donkey

Pinch ground cloves Zi

Let

cabbage. it

and cut lb.

place of the donkey.

saute the garlic cloves

head Savoy cabbage, outer leaves removed and the head cored

1

way. Beef or pork can be used

In a large pan, heat the butter, olive

chopped

2 garlic cloves

1

in this

typical of Chiusi. For the

homemade

a grill with a charcoal fire it

as

though roasting

it.

pappardelle

wine use Chianti Classico.

and cook the duck

Baste with half the garlic,

1

duck

2tsp. minced garlic sprig rosemary

1

2 lbs. mixed lake fish: carp, tench,

rosemary, and

cup extra-virgin

olive oil 1

cup tomato puree

Zz

cup red wine

Zi 1

medium

pepper flakes

Chili

Juice of

1

cup extra-virgin flat-leaf

olive oil

parsley

Several sage leaves

Pinch

chili

2 beef kidneys, cut Zi

pepper flakes

in

lift

aside;

add the remaining wine

3 oz. lard 3 garlic cloves

pork shoulder, cut

in

pieces

potatoes, peeled and sliced 1

1

tbsp.

teaspoon garlic, onion, in a

when

pot and heat-

the liquid cooks

out the pieces of fish with a strainer and set to the cooking juices, then

add the pieces of duck along with the lemon

Then

return the fish to the pan.

pepper

(to taste),

Add

juice.

the remaining

and the remaining

parsley.

KIDNEYS IN WINE For the wine use Orvieto. olive oil

and add the

parsley, sage, chili pepper,

and anchovy. Add the kidneys and brown the wine.

When

Add

lightly.

the wine has evaporated, cover the

pan with aluminum

foil

and continue cooking

at

low

heat until the kidneys are tender, about 10 minutes.

PORK WITH POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS Using an earthenware pan cook the

lb.

54

pepper

chili

4 or 6 pieces

CALABRIA

1

prepare

cup white wine

TIELLA ALLA SILANA

Za lbs.

al-

anchovy, finely chopped

1

1

Then

set aside.

down

Heat the Za

it is

and pepper

UMBRIA

cup chopped

When

to taste.

ing over low heat. Simmer, and

lemon

TEGAMINI Dl ROGNONI AL VINO D’ORVIETO

Za

and

tomato puree, half the wine,

garlic, chili Salt

fat)

tablespoon parsley, and

onion, finely sliced

2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley

and pepper

into small pieces (the cooking having

the classic tegamaccio, mixing the lake fish with the olive oil,

Zi

it

helped remove the

cleaned and boned

pike, eel, etc.,

salt

most done, cut

mushrooms, cleaned and chopped

lb.

1

Pinch

flat-leaf

Add

the

minutes.

Add

mary,

pepper, and

chili

mer over low little

warm

FQR PERSONS

(a della), heat the lard

and

When the cloves turn blond, remove and

discard them.

porcini

chopped

garlic.

6

meat and cook

the potatoes, salt.

mushrooms,

for

about 15

parsley, rose-

Cover the pan and sim-

heat until tender, about 2 hours, adding a

water from time to time as needed.

parsley

sprig rosemary

chili

pepper flakes Salt

659

LOCAL TRADITION

TESTARELLE D’ABBACCHIO Roman

This ancient

would be cut

specialty for lambs’ heads

is

typical of Lazio.

Two lambs’ heads

and very carefully cleaned, leaving only the prized brains and

half

in

TEGLIA

IN

tongue. The rest of the necessary cleaning involved making specific cuts and or

scrapes

in

parsley,

breadcrumbs, and

each

half,

be baked

the internal cartilage of the ears, the tongue, and eyes. Chopped garlic,

and pepper would be used to season the inside of

salt

and they would then be drizzled with a pan with more

in a

bit of olive oil.

The heads would then

approximately half an hour and served im-

olive oil for

mediately with lemon halves.

TOMAXELLE LIGURIA

YEAL ROLL-UPS Chop

together the dried

marjoram. 1

soaked

oz.

in

mushrooms,

dried

this

mushrooms,

parsley, sage,

and

mixture in a bowl and add the

Heat half the butter

soaked bread (squeezed dry).

in

tepid water, drained,

and squeezed dry

Z2 cup chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

Several sage leaves 1

sprig

The bread of a

marjoram

roll,

the crust, soaked

A

without in

broth

cup unsalted butter Vi lb. lean veal,

parboiled and chopped /z lb. veal breast,

chopped

2tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1

large egg, beaten

Afewtbsp. milk 8 veal cutlets,

pounded

thin

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

oil

cup chicken broth Salt

660

Put

and pepper

a pan,

brown

add the

chopped

among

the slices of veal, then roll

and brown the

salt

and pepper

and egg and

Divide

up each

a

roll-ups.

slice,

and

seal

olive

When

they are brown, add

pour

in the broth, cover,

to taste, then

temperature.

milk

little

this stuffing

Heat the remaining butter and

and simmer over low heat 30

room

to the mixture;

combine them, adding

needed to bind the mixture.

with a toothpick. oil

and add

veal,

veal breast, Parmigiano-Reggiano,

the ingredients to

stir

as

the

to

40 minutes. Serve

at

TORTINO

D

PATATE

I

E

POTATO AND MEAT PIE

CARNE

ALTO ADIGE

Heat the butter and it

3 tbsp. unsaltod butter /} 1

3

A

cup

leaves,

olive oil

meat

Stir well,

browning

all

the ingre-

pie.

the mixture into the

Serve warm.

(veal, beef, chicken),

cut 1

shape of a

until

the parsley and salt and pepper to taste,

wooden spoon work

then using a

mixed boiled or roasted

lb.

Add

pan and saute the onion

the meat, then the potatoes, bay

and marjoram.

dients.

small onion, finely chopped

oil in a

Add

turns golden.

lb.

in

pieces

potatoes, peeled, sliced,

and boiled

2 bay leaves

Pinch marjoram 1

tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

Salt

parsley

and pepper

SARDEGNAN STEWED TRIPE

TRIPPAALLA CAGLIARITANA

SARDEGNA

Many

believe that the best saffron

where 2 lbs. pork tripe

A 1

cup extra-virgin

medium

2 lbs.

Clean the

olive oil

in a

onion, finely sliced

tripe

pan with

and cut

it

Sardinia,

medium

at

Put the

in thin strips.

lightly salted cold

simmer

a boil, then

plum tomatoes, peeled, drained, and chopped

comes from

has long grown wild.

it

strips

water to cover. Bring to

heat for about 2 hours.

At the end of that time remove the pieces of tripe and

them

Heat the

aside to drain.

olive oil

set

and saute the

Pinch Sardinian saffron,

onion.

toasted and crumbled

Add

the tripe

stirring carefully,

6 mint leaves

and

and continue cooking

Grated aged pecorino

let it

cook for a few minutes,

then add the tomatoes. Taste for for half an hour.

Add

salt

the saf-

fron and continue cooking with the pan uncovered until

Salt

the tripe

is

perfumed, about 15 minutes. Just before

serving add the mint leaves and season with pecorino.

TRIPPA ALLA

CAMPOBASSANA MOLISE

1

TRIPE WITH POTATOES This dish

is

typical of

Campobasso.

After carefully cleaning the tripe, put 2 'A 2

lbs. veal tripe

medium onions CONTINUED

lightly salted boiling water.

and the

celery.

utes, drain

it

it

in a

pan

Add salt, an onion

full

of

(halved),

When the tripe is tender, about 30 min-

well

and cut

into small cubes.

Heat the

661

0

0 celery stalk

1

cup

Vi 1

oil

(minced),

add the prosciutto

garlic,

fat,

remaining onion

and parsley and saute

slice prosciutto fat,

minced

Add

the tripe

garlic clove,

minced

toes

and cook 30 minutes, then serve the

parsley

ately in the

1

A

extra-virgin olive

olive oil in a pan,

cup minced 1

lb.

flat-leaf

plum tomatoes, peeled and chopped ripe

and

and

toss to coat with

for a minute.

Add

oil.

pan it was cooked in, dusting

it

the toma-

tripe

immedi-

with pecorino

diavolillo.

Grated pecorino 1

chili

pepper

see note, page

diavolillo

(

,

chopped

22),

Salt

TRIPPA ALLA CANEPINA

MARCHE

TRIPE IN SAUCE Clean and rinse the

2

4 1

medium 1

1

'A

A

lbs.

veal tripe

oz. lardo,

minced

onion,

minced

garlic clove,

minced

chopped

celery stalk,

cup chopped

flat-leaf

pieces.

lardo

half

it

in lightly salted

cooked and cut into

In a saucepan (preferably terra-cotta), heat the

and lemon

zest.

Add

garlic, celery, parsley, carrot,

a pinch of

marjoram, then add

the tripe, pork rind, and prosciutto bone.

Add

mato paste mixture and

for 2 hours,

stirring frequently.

1

when

and saute the onion,

parsley

chopped

carrot,

1

Grated zest of

then boil

tripe,

water to cover; drain

salt

and cook slowly

When cooked, remove the

the to-

prosciutto

bone and serve with cheese.

lemon

Pinch ground marjoram 4

pork

oz.

1

1

rind, parboiled

prosciutto bone

tbsp.

tomato paste, warm water

diluted in 2 tbsp.

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

TRIPPA ALLA CROTONESE

CALABRIA

LAMB TRIPE IN TOMATO SAUCE This dish

is

typical of Crotone. For the

wine use Ciro or

Fiano. Several sprigs rosemary 1

A cup 1

/i lbs.

lamb tripe

extra-virgin olive

medium

onion,

oil

chopped

CONTINUED

662

Add

the rosemary to a large pot of salted water

bring to a

boil.

Drain the

Add

tripe

the tripe

and cut

it

and cook

in thin strips.

terra-cotta pan, heat the olive oil sage,

and

chili

until

pepper; add the

it is

and

tender.

Using a

and saute the onion,

tripe.

When

all

the

A

A few sage leaves spicy

1

]4

chili

pepper

cup dry white wine

2 cups

tomato puree

liquid has

been cooked out of the

When the wine has Taste for

salt

tripe,

add the wine.

evaporated, add the tomato puree.

and cook at low heat until the sauce

thick,

is

about 30 minutes.

Salt

TRIPPA ALLA FIORENTIN

TOSCANA

TRIPE FLORENTINE-STYLE True Trippa alia Fiorentina wants neither wine nor broth nor long and exhausting cooking. The only variation permitted

cup extra-virgin

Zi

medium

1

2 lbs. tripe, cut

in

onion,

olive oil

minced

short sections

Z2

about

inch wide

plum tomatoes or canned peeled plum tomatoes 1

ripe

lb.

the addition of a carrot and a

Salt

and pepper

celery.

If

Heat the

become Trippa

a saucepan

oil in

as the onion pales,

about

1

pepper to

add the

5 minutes, then

taste

alia Livornese.

and saute the onion; Brown,

tripe.

as

Salt

Turn

off the heat, sprinkle

let rest for

5 minutes.

Serve the tripe with more Parmigiano-Reggiano. tripe

is

lbs.

pre cooked veal tripe 1

1

medium 1

lardo

later,

The

reheated.

Cut

the tripe in long,

many times and

narrow

strips,

then rinse in

Heat the lardo

dry.

in a

warm

pan and

saute the onion, celery heart, carrot, parsley, and garlic.

Add

the marjoram.

When

the mixture has browned,

onion, finely

chopped

add the

celery heart, finely

chopped

low heat for about 15 minutes; add the tomatoes and

carrot, finely

chopped

1

Zn

oz.

even better a few hours

YEAL TRIPE IN TOMATO SAUCE water

2]4

and

40 minutes,

for about

or until the liquid has cooked down, leaving the tripe

with Parmigiano-Reggiano, and

MARCHE

soon

stirring often,

add the tomatoes.

and cook, covered,

with a creamy consistency.

TRIPPA ALLA M ARCHIGI AN A

is

you use

and parsley instead of the celery and carrot, the dish

garlic

you’re making will

for 2 or 3tbsp. grated

Parmigiano-Reggiano

chopped

little

cup chopped

flat-leaf

broth.

parsley 1

2 or 3 garlic cloves, finely

tripe,

season with

salt

and pepper, and cook

Cover the pan and cook

at

at

low heat for about

hour. Serve hot, dusted with Parmigiano-Reggiano.

chopped

Pinch ground marjoram 1

Zi lbs.

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 1

cup broth

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

and pepper

663

TRIPPA ALLA

MORMANNOLA CALABRIA

TRIPE WITH TOMATOES AND PEPPERS This dish

is

Cook the 2/2

lbs. tripe

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

oil

medium

onion, finely

chopped

1

celery stalk,

chopped

1

lb.

ripe

plum tomatoes,

seeded and sliced 2

lbs.

red and yellow peppers,

cored, seeded, and cut

in

thin strips

FOR PERSONS

6

Mormanno.

typical of

tripe in lightly salted water to cover until done;

drain and allow to cool.

Heat the

olive oil in a sauce-

When

pan and saute the onion and

celery.

browned add the tomatoes.

Cook at low heat for about

15 minutes, then add the peppers.

Taste for

salt

then

Cut the

tripe

and continue cooking

until

cover the pan and simmer, stirring often. in strips,

add

to the sauce,

these have

the sauce has thickened. Serve piping hot.

Salt

TRIPPA ALLA PARMIGIANA

EMILIA-ROMAGNA 2 lbs. beef tripe

sprig rosemary

1

A few sage leaves bay leaf

1

2 celery stalks, 34

cup chopped

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

2 garlic cloves 2

medium

onions,

TRIPE ALLA PARMIGIANA Carefully clean and rinse the tripe.

Add

it

and add the rosemary,

leaf,

half the celery,

parsley, garlic,

season with

When

cup

lard,

2 tbsp. unsalted butter 2 tbsp. olive

to a large pot

and half the onions. Add water

salt,

and then

cooked drain

boil

for about

it

to cover,

30 minutes.

and

well, discarding the vegetables

Heat the lard with the butter

and

Add

olive oil in a saucepan.

maining onion and taken on a

chopped chopped

bay

cutting the tripe in strips.

1

Vs

sage,

little

5 minutes,

celery.

color,

then add a

an hour add as

add the little

total

and the

re-

the vegetables have

tripe.

water and

much tomato

cooking should take a

the carrots

When

Cook

for about

salt to taste; after

puree as desired.

The

of about 234 hours. Serve

oil

with Parmigiano-Reggiano. 2 carrots, chopped 34

cup tomato puree

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

TRIPPA ALLA PENNESE

ABRUZZO

TRIPE IN TOMATO SAUCE This dish

Cut 2

lbs. tripe,

already boiled

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

CONTINUED

664

is

typical of Penne.

the tripe in strips. Heat the olive

onion and

celery.

Add

oil

and saute the

the tripe and cook.

When

browned, add the other ingredients (except the cheese);

1

Va

onion,

chopped

cook for 2 hours.

celery stalk,

chopped

and serve

medium

1

When

cooked, season with pecorino

hot.

cup chopped flat-leaf parsley bay leaf

1

Several mint leaves, chopped

pepper, cored,

1

seeded, and chopped 1

Va

sprig

marjoram

cup tomato puree Grated Pecorino

TRIPPA ALLA PISANA

TOSCANA

1

TRIPE PISA-STYLE For the wine use Vernaccia

Heat the Zi

2

cup extra-virgin

medium 1

olive oil

onions, finely

chopped

celery stalk, finely

chopped

2 carrots, finely

chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely

chopped

4 oz. pancetta, diced

2/a

cut Vi

Vi 1

lbs. veal tripe,

in boiling in

water and

pan and saute the onions,

garlic. Stir in

few minutes add the

evaporate. to taste.

cooked

and

Add

FOR persons

San Gimignano.

olive oil in a large

celery, carrots,

a

di

6

the pancetta, and after

Add

tripe.

the tomato puree

the wine and

and

salt

let it

and pepper

Add the bouquet garni and continue cooking,

warm broth or warm water if needed; the sauce should cook down and the tripe should be very soft when cooked. Add the cheese and serve. adding

small pieces

cup white wine

cup tomato puree

bouquet garni

(flat-leaf parsley,

sage, bay leaves, basil, mint, thyme)

Beef broth (as needed) /z

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

and pepper

TRIPPA ALLA RAGUSANA SICILIA

TRIPE WITH EGGPLANT AND WALNUTS Clean and rinse the tripe

Put the lard 2/a

lbs.

pre cooked tripe 1

tbsp. lard

5 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

2 or 3 cups broth 2 eggplants, cut

in

strips

in a

well,

dry

it,

smoke add

as the oil begins to

little salt

and cook for a few minutes.

lower the heat, and cook

plant,

and

and cut

FQR persons it

saucepan with 3 tablespoons

As soon

rate pan, heat the

e

1

hour.

remaining olive

set aside.

When

olive

oil.

the tripe with a

Pour in the broth,

Meanwhile, oil

in strips.

in a sepa-

and brown the egg-

the tripe

is

almost done

CONTINUED

665

3 or 4 tbsp. grated caciocavallo 1

heaping tbsp. toasted and

chopped almonds 1

tbsp.

(there should be only a

caciocavallo

and

little

remaining sauce), add the

stir it in well;

then add the eggplant,

almonds, walnuts, cinnamon, and sugar.

chopped walnut meats salt,

and serve piping

Stir, taste for

hot.

Pinch ground cinnamon Pinch sugar Salt

TRIPPA ALLA

ROMANA LAZIO

TRIPE ROMAN-STYLE This dish Castelli

2 lbs. cooked tripe

cup extra-virgin

Zi

4

oz.

prosciutto (or

medium

Zi

olive

ham)

oil

fat

onion,

chopped

2 garlic cloves,

chopped

carrot,

chopped

celery stalk,

chopped

Zi Zi

about 2 inches on a the olive

lbs.

plum tomatoes,

peeled and seeded 2 tbsp. tomato puree

oil

garlic, carrot,

season for

and prosciutto and

salt

celery.

it

into square

chunks

In an earthenware pot heat

side.

fat,

Add

then saute the onion, the tripe and wine and

Cook over moderate heat, wooden spoon. Add the tomatoes, and mint leaves. Cook until the tripe

and pepper.

stirring often with a

tomato puree, is still

2

Rome. For the wine use Frascati or

typical of

Rinse and dry the tripe and cut

cup dry white wine

Zi

is

Romani.

slighdy chewy, rather than melt in the mouth.

supposed

(in the

word of the experts)

It is

to “slither.” Serve

hot with pecorino.

(Roman mint possible), chopped

5 mint leaves if

%cup

grated pecorino

and pepper

Salt

TRIPPA

COMODA

PIEMONTE

TRIPE IN SPICED TOMATO SAUCE This dish

Heat the 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

medium 1

onion,

oil

minced

celery stalk, minced 1

lb.

add

tripe, finely

tbsp. unsalted butter

Pinch ground cinnamon 1

tbsp. potato starch Salt

666

(if

needed)

and pepper

it

to the pan.

Add

celery,

Separately parboil the

the butter (not

1

5 minutes, then

much

since tripe

already fatty), a dusting of pepper, salt to taste, and

cinnamon.

chopped 1

1

pan and saute the onion,

tripe in lightly salted water to cover for

is

1

typical of Novara.

olive oil in a

rosemary, and tomato puree.

sprig rosemary

2K3Cups tomato puree

is

Cook

at

moderate heat

until tender,

about

hour. If necessary, add a tablespoon of potato starch to

thicken the sauce. Serve hot.

TRIPE WITH

TRIPPA CON PEPERONCINI

I

CHILI PEPPERS

CALABRIA

Although you should use cooked

f 1

!4 lbs.

in lightly salted

cooked veal cut

Zi

celery stalk,

tripe,

1

medium lb.

carrot,

chopped

onion,

chopped

2 red

chili

famous

tripe, parboil

again

it

water to cover with the celery, carrot,

and onion.

Drain well and

vegetables.

Boil the potatoes until tender, peel while

hot,

and

let

potatoes and put

them

discarding the

let it cool,

Before serving,

cool.

them on

and add the

chili

slice the

a serving plate, delicately mix-

Heat the

ing in the pieces of tripe.

potatoes (not mealy)

% cup extra-virgin olive (best are the

FOR PERSONS

in strips

chopped still

1

Vi

6

olive oil in a

pan

peppers. Pour over the tripe and pota-

oil

toes while

peppers

still

sizzling.

Serve the dish very hot.

diavuliddi,

see note, page 22), chopped Salt

TRIPPA

Dl

TRIPE

MAI ALE

PIEMONTE

AND BEANS

Drain the beans, put them cover by several inches, and

1 % cups dried white beans, soaked in water for 12 hours

cup

FOR persons

pan with cold water

in a boil.

to

Meanwhile, heat the

and

butter in a saucepan and fry the pancetta

the onion, carrot, and celery 14

6

and cook

sage.

for about

1

Add

0 min-

unsalted butter

(4 tbsp.)

Add

utes.

the tripe,

stir,

and cook off some of the

2 oz. pancetta, diced

Add

liquid that will have formed.

Sage 1

medium

leaves,

carrot,

chopped

celery stalk,

chopped

the

pan covered,

for about 2 hours, adding broth if necessary

often to keep

cleaned and cut

in

it

from

sticking to the bottom.

drain the beans, add

2 lbs. pork tripe,

at

salt,

low heat,

them

to the pot,

and

and

stirring

After

1

hour

finish cooking.

Transfer to a serving bowl, sprinkle with Parmigiano-

pieces

Reggiano, and serve hot.

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 1

Cook with

and pepper. onion, finely sliced 1

1

the tomatoes,

chopped

lb.

2 cups broth, or as needed

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

TRIPPA

and pepper

Dl MAIALE AL CIALDELETTO

UMBRIA

1

BAKED TRIPE

IN CRUST

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking dish with olive

oil.

Clean the

tripe

and trim away

tripe in lightly salted water to cover for

cut

it

in thin strips.

Combine

it

all fat.

Boil the

30 minutes, then

with the olive

oil,

lemon

667

%

cup

extra-virgin olive

oil

3 34 lbs. pork tripe

Juice of 1

tbsp. fresh

1

lemon

breadcrumbs

2 tbsp. grated pecorino 2 tbsp. chopped

marjoram

juice,

breadcrumbs, pecorino, and marjoram, then mix

Meanwhile, mix the flour with the lard and sea-

well.

son with

salt

enough

to a sheet large

certain

chili

rest

pan and

until a

roll

out

baking pan, making

to line the

cover.

Knead

pepper.

30 minutes, then

extends up the sides.

it

ture into the For the dough:

and pepper or

smooth dough forms. Let

Spread the

Bake

tripe

mix-

dough

until the

is

golden, about 30 minutes.

3 cups all-purpose flour 2 Salt

and pepper (or

cups lard

chili

pepper)

UCCELLETTI SCAPPATI

TRENTINO

VEAL

"BIRDS”

The name Uccelli scappati literally means “the birds that got away.” They are on toothpicks “so they won’t escape,” some-

2 lbs. veal

rump, cut

into thin slices

Pancetta (or prosciutto) 10 sage leaves, or as needed

Juniper berries 14

cup

(4 tbsp.)

unsalted butter Salt

one says, interpreting scappati to mean “escaped,” whereas

perhaps

it

should be written scapati, meaning “headless.”

made

Serve with polenta

buckwheat flour (page

Cut the

veal

rump

with cornmeal (page 318) or with

324).

in thin slices (about

14

inch), calculat-

ing 4 to 5 per person.

Pound

side of a knife, salt them,

and cover each with

pancetta (or prosciutto), a sage Roll

berries.

Melt the butter

them up and in a

the slices

leaf,

and

several juniper

pan and add the “fake

down

with the a slice of

close with a toothpick.

with another 5 to 6 sage leaves.

high heat, then turn

flat

Brown

birds,” along

the “birds” at

the heat to complete the

cooking.

UMIDO ALLA MARCHIGIAN A

MARCHE

VEAL STEW For the wine use Rosso Conero or Sangiovese.

Using the 1

Yi lbs. veal

zest, 2 garlic cloves, minced

Grated zest of

1

lemon

6 oz. lardo 1

carrot,

chopped

and

up

of a knife, make incisions in the meat.

and

salt

prosciutto, half the garlic, the

and pepper.

Combine

these ingredients

insert the mixture in the incisions in the meat.

the

meat with twine. Heat the

In

lemon

lardo in a large

Tie

pan

over low heat and add the carrot, onion, celery, and re-

maining

CONTINUED the

668

tip

mix the

a bowl,

2 oz. prosciutto crudo, diced

garlic, salt

and pepper, and marjoram.

meat and brown on

all

sides.

When

the

Add

meat has

1

1

medium

onion,

chopped

small celery stalk, chopped ’Pinch Zi

marjoram

cup red wine

colored,

pour

in the wine, let

Add

tomatoes.

it

evaporate, then add the

the broth, cover the pan,

low heat for about 2 hours.

and cook

Stir in the butter

at

and serve

immediately.

2V& cups plum tomatoes, peeled and chopped 4 cups veal broth 14

cup

unsalted butter

(4 tbsp.)

Salt

and pepper

VALIGINI

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

BEEF ROLL-UPS This dish

typical of Reggio Emilia

is

very tasty dish can be 1

lb.

beef

rump

roast or chuck roast

slice prosciutto

1

4 4

oz.

crudo

ground veal

oz.

ground chicken

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Zi

cup breadcrumbs 2 large eggs

Zi ]4

cup all-purpose flour

cup chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

Pinch nutmeg Zi

cup

(J4 lb.)

of the beef.

made

and Parma. A simple but

by using cabbage leaves

Another variation

is

in

place

the Uccellini scappati (see

page 668), which should be made with slices of pork and pancetta. pick.

These roll-ups are usually held together with a tooth-

Another variation of this dish

Cut the beef

is

in thin slices. Finely

made using pork chop together

liver.

all

the

remaining ingredients except the butter and the broth to

form a

twine.

Add

Spread the paste on one side of each

paste.

Tightly

roll

up each

Heat the butter

the broth

and

slice

in a

and simmer

tie

slice.

closed with kitchen

pan and brown the

for about

roll-ups.

30 minutes.

unsalted butter

cup beef or veal broth

1

Pepper

VITELLO ALL’UCCELLETTO

LIGURIA

YEAL STEWED

lb.

lean veal,

in

slices

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

1

oil

tbsp. unsalted butter garlic clove,

crushed

2 bay leaves Za

WINE

For the wine use Pigato or Vermentino.

Tear the 1

IN

slices

pan with the

cook over low

add

salt

of veal into irregular pieces, put them in a

olive oil, butter, garlic,

heat.

When

the

and bay

meat

is

leaves,

and pepper and sprinkle with the wine,

partially evaporate.

and

almost cooked letting

At the moment of serving mix

it

in

fried potatoes or, in season, thin slices of artichoke.

cup dry white wine

Fried potatoes (or artichoke slices) Salt

and pepper

669

#

AFFUNNATIELLE

MOLISE

*

SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH PEPPERS Heat the

olive oil in a pan,

add the onion, and saute

low heat; add the peppers. Vi

medium

1

1

bell

lb.

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

onion, finely sliced

peppers, washed, dried, core

and seeds removed, and chopped

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

the tomatoes, parsley, diavolillo,

and cook eggs

set,

1

1

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

diavolillo (hot chili

pepper

tbsp.

and

at

basil. Salt to taste

When

for about 10 minutes.

become somewhat dense, add

8 ripe

it

After a few minutes, add

bring the dish to the table in

the sauce has

As soon

the eggs.

as the

cooking pot.

its

see note, page 22), minced Several basil leaves 8 large eggs, beaten Salt

ASPARAGI CON LE UOVA IN CEREGHIN

LOMBARDIA

ASPARAGUS WITH FRIED EGGS This

is

best using asparagus from the Bassa Brianza, large

stalks that are white up to a few inches 2 lbs. asparagus,

woody ends trimmed

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 2 tbsp. unsalted butter 4 large eggs

is first

Cook

from the end, which

green and then reddish, tending to white. the asparagus upright in the basket of an aspara-

gus pot or in a large saucepan with water to cover until bright green. Drain well and lay out

on 4

plates. Sprinkle

each generously with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Heat the butter in a pan, fry the eggs sunny-side up,

and top each

serving of asparagus with one so that the cheese melts.

ASPARAGI

CON SALSA

BASSANO UOVA SODE

Dl

Dl

VENETO

ASPARAGUS WITH EGG SAUCE The asparagus can be served very can be dipped one at a time

2 lbs. asparagus,

woody ends trimmed 3 large hard-boiled eggs,

in

hot, in

the sauce

Tie the asparagus

stalks in small

bunches and stand

them up

narrow pan.

Add

in a high,

2 tbsp. lemon juice, or as needed

two-thirds cup extra-virgin

a bowl; or they

can be cooled and then tossed with the sauce, decorating the plate with additional chopped egg whites.

shells removed, cut in half

1

which case they

in

up

the length of the stalks

water to about

and simmer them

olive oil

until bright

green (about 8 minutes).

Meanwhile,

CONTINUED

make

672

the sauce. Press the hard-boiled yolks through a

2 salt-cured anchovy 1

fillets,

tbsp. capers, rinsed

chopped

’Salt

Stir in the

sieve.

and chopped and pepper

obtain a

somewhat

and add them and pepper.

lemon

ASPARAGI SELVATICI IN UMIDO SICILIA

1

14 1

cup

garlic clove, coarsely 14 lb.

chopped

asparagus

tips

(the top 2 inches of the stalks) 14 1

cup white wine

tsp.

tomato paste Salt

juice

and then,

much

olive oil as necessary to

Chop

fluid sauce.

Add

to the sauce.

con-

stirring

the egg whites

the anchovies, capers,

Taste the mixture to

make

sure the salt and

are right.

BRAISED WILD ASPARAGUS “Mastru Tanu, chi

Riddle: ciati e

extra-virgin olive oil

lemon

stantly, slowly drizzle in as

nun

viviti

and

all

faciti ’nta ’ssu

e chiu longu

what are you doing

chianu? Non man(“Master Gaetano,

vi faciti!”

that piazza? You don’t eat, don’t drink,

in

the time just grow longer!”) Answer: “I’m wild aspara-

gus.” Wild asparagus

the rarest and most precious

is

surrendered by the stingy

soil of Sicilia’s coastline.

It

gift

has a

special, very pleasant bitter flavor.

In an earthenware pan, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil.

Add

the heat

to coat with

stir

the asparagus with a

oil.

Add the wine and a few tablespoons

water, the tomato paste,

none of the to

bitter

tips. Lower wooden spoon just

add the asparagus

the garlic, then

and

aroma

and will

salt.

be

lost

of

Cover the pan so

and cook, checking

keep the asparagus from drying out (add more wine

and

a tiny

amount of water

if

necessary).

When

the

asparagus are cooked, about 5 minutes, dress them with the remaining olive

BROCCOLI NERI STUFATI

MOLISE head broccolo nero (or broccoli), weighing about 2 lbs. 4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

For the wine use Biferno or Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. it.

Cut

off the florets; cut the big ones in half lengthwise

and

14

chili

the hard leaves of the broccoli

leave the smaller ones as they are.

and core

Heat the

olive oil in

oil

2 or 3 garlic cloves, slivered

Pinch

and serve warm.

BRAISED BROCCOLI Cut away

1

oil

pepper flakes

cup dry white wine Salt

a saute

pan and add the

add the broccoli, water as needed.

salt,

garlic;

and

chili

when

it

changes color,

pepper, adding a

When the broccoli is

little

cooked, add the

wine and turn up the heat; when the wine has evaporated, serve the broccoli.

673

0

0

BRAISED BROCCOLI BROCCOLI AFFUCATI

CALABRIA

WITH VINEGAR This can be used to dress pasta (vermicelli), but

omit the vinegar and add, 2 lbs. broccoli Zi

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

2 or 3 garlic cloves 1

tbsp. white wine vinegar Salt

Clean and rinse the broccoli and tender

and add the

garlic.

When

become

they

a

Vi

lid

Cook

on the pan.

at

most a

pan

transparent,

add

oil in

Add a pinch

the broccoli dripping with water.

put the

that case

select only the

Rinse well* Heat the olive

florets.

in

desired, black pepper.

if

of salt and

moderate heat, adding

cup of water from time to time and

stirring frequently.

After about 30 minutes, pour in the vinegar and

let it

evaporate rapidly. Serve hot as a side dish.

CANCIOFFA A TIANU

SARDEGNA

STEAMED ARTICHOKES Clean the artichokes, trimming off the pointed outer leaves

7 artichokes

Juice of Za

cup extra-virgin 1

Zi

medium

cup chopped

1

lemon

olive oil

onion, sliced

flat-leaf

parsley Salt

and

slicing off the stems;

acidulated with saute pan and

Heat the

add them

to the

it

in

water

olive oil in a

cooks, quarter the

pan and saute them

at

Pour in enough water to cover the artichokes,

high heat.

parsley, salt to taste,

low heat

immerse them

juice.

add the onion; while

artichokes, then

add the

lemon

and

cover. Let

until the water has evaporated,

them cook

at

by which time

the artichokes will be cooked without being overdone.

Serve

at

room

temperature. Eat only the tender leaves,

leaving behind the fuzzy choke.

CAPONATA D’INVERNO SICILIA

WINTER CAPONATA Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the artichokes in thin slices

12 artichokes

Juice of

1

lemon

Extra-virgin olive

oil

2 carrots, cut into coins

2 celery stalks, chopped 6 scallions 6

medium

onions, sliced

CONTINUED

674

and soak them

in water with

pot of water to boiling;

may need

to

this will

be replenished. Heat

a pan. Parboil the artichokes

Cook

and

in

fry

oil until

an ovenproof baking

salt,

them

oil in

in the

carrots, celery,

the onions in the olive

Put the tomato puree vinegar, sugar,

Heat a

juice.

inch of olive

Zi

and then

Repeat with the

olive oil; set aside. scallions.

lemon

be used several times and

and

golden.

dish;

add the

then add the cooked vegetables,

4 tbsp. tomato puree 1

tbsp. white wine vinegar tsp.

1

olives,

bake

and capers.

until

Stir this to blend, stir in the eggs,

and

heated through, about 8 minutes.

sugar

16 green olives, pitted

cuq capers

Za

6 large eggs, hard-boiled and chopped Salt

CAPONATA

D CARCIOFI I

SICILIA

ARTICHOKE CAPONATA Cook al

8 artichokes,

trimmed

leaves,

of the larger

the artichokes in lightly salted boiling water until

dente, then remove, drain,

der, drain. 1

celery stalk,

tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

garlic clove,

cup

raisins,

minced

soaked

warm water and

Heat the

olive oil in a pan,

pan along with the

CAPONATA

drained

pepper, and mint. let it

Stir

cara-

melize, stirring constantly. off,

Add the vinegar and cook it warm or cold.

then add the pine nuts and serve

and pepper

NATALE

Dl

SICILIA

CHRISTMAS CAPONATA

Vi

cup

olive

olives,

oil

little lb.

1

pitted

green

olives,

and chopped

cups salted capers, rinsed 2

/3cups raisins

1

white wine vinegar Za

cup sugar

8

Boil the celery in salted water, draining

Heat the 10 large heads celery, chopped

1

garlic, raisins,

few minutes, then add the sugar and

cup pine nuts

Salt

Z2 cup

cel-

the artichokes to the

white wine vinegar Zi

Za

Add

tbsp. sugar

1

1

ten-

and saute the

in

A few mint leaves

Z2 cup

and

oil

this for a Zi

Boil the

set aside.

chopped

ery until lightly browned. 1

and

celery in lightly salted water until bright green

chokes removed

olive oil in a large

and capers. Add the

Make

while.

it

FQR PERSONS

when

al

pan and saute the

raisins

and

let this

dente. celery,

cook a

the sweet-and-sour sauce by stirring

the vinegar and sugar into the pan; bring this to a boil

and evaporate the cooked, add

1

Arrange the mixture on a serving the remaining

When

liquid at high heat.

this

has

cup of the almonds and the breadcrumbs. plate,

and sprinkle with

almonds and pomegranate

seeds.

% cups chopped almonds, toasted 2 tbsp. breadcrumbs or crumbled toasted bread

Seeds of

1

pomegranate

675

#

CAPONATA

SICILIAN A

SICILIA

!

SICILIAN This

makes

4 firm medium-size eggplants,

and allowed to rest to lose the taste, then cut into 1-inch

head

celery,

chopped

4 plum tomatoes,

peeled and cut 1

20 green

1

drop of

in

a hot

salicylic

acid for every 2 pounds of caponata.

Combine

all

large pan.

Cover and cook

of the ingredients except the vinegar in a

When

the

vegetables have cooked for about 15 minutes, turn

up

the heat to

medium; add

at very

low heat.

and cook

the vinegar

until

it

evaporates. Serve immediately.

small dice

large onion,

1

chopped

and chopped

olives, pitted

tbsp. sugar

34

cup

Zi Ya

oven); to do so you must, however, add

capers, rinsed

34 tbsp. 1

in

and can also be preserved

glass jars (absolutely clean and dried

bitter

cubes

4 green peppers, seeded and cut in cubes 1

CAPONATA

a wonderful side dish

in sterilized

peeled, sliced, sprinkled with salt,

r

olive oil

cup white wine vinegar Salt

CAPPUCCI ACIDI

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

SWEET-AND-SOUR BRAISED CABBAGE This

makes

a good side dish to pork.

Heat the butter and 2 tbsp. unsalted butter 2 tbsp. olive 1

medium

chopped

or 2 garlic cloves

1

6

onion,

oil

oz.

When minutes.

speck, minced

good-size Savoy cabbage,

cored and cut 1

apple, cored

and

2 tbsp. white

cup raisins (best

strips

thinly sliced

wine vinegar

Broth Z\

lic in

(if

if

needed)

muscatel),

plumped in boiling water and drained (optional) Salt

676

and pepper

the cabbage has cooked

and add the vinegar,

like 1

olive oil in a saute

pan and saute the

onion, garlic, and speck, then add the cabbage and apple.

Add

a

little

salt,

broth

if

necessary.

sweet-and-sour flavors, add

before serving.

down, lower the heat

and pepper and cook

raisins.

for

For those

Remove

30

who

the gar-

BAKED ARTICHOKES

CARCIOFI AL FORNO

BASILICATA

If

desired, potatoes can be added to this recipe, cut

in slices

and sprinkled with grated cheese. 8 artichokes, cut in thin Sections

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Arrange the artichokes in an

2tbsp. breadcrumbs 1

tbsp.

2 tbsp.

ovenproof saute pan, sprinkle over them

minced fresh oregano

chopped

flat-leaf

crumbs, oregano, parsley,

parsley

after cooking), olive oil,

garlic clove

1

A

cup

and A cup of water.

pan over medium heat and cook

olive oil

bread-

salt,

(which can be removed

garlic

Put the

a while to dry

up some

of the liquid and thus soften the artichokes, then transfer

Salt

the

pan

to the

oven and cook

until the artichokes are

easily pierced with the tip of a knife.

BAKED ARTICHOKES WITH EGG SAUCE

CARCIOFI ALLA CAVOUR

PIEMONTE

Choose somewhat

small, tender artichokes for this dish.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Clean the artichokes, remov8 artichokes

A cup

(A

lb.)

ing the outer leaves and scooping out the choke. Boil

unsalted butter,

them

in lightiy salted water until al dente.

Drain them

melted well, drizzle

them with

half the butter, then roll

them

in

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Parmigiano-Reggiano. Arrange them in an ovenproof

pan and bake

For the sauce:

chopped

shelled and

A cup

chopped

flat-leaf

and anchovies

parsley

a

2 anchovies, rinsed,

4 large globe artichokes 1

lemon and

its

juice

4 cups extra-virgin olive Salt

oil

and pepper

0 minutes, until the butter

is

sizzling.

together.

Heat the remainining butter

it is

in

bubbly add the egg mixture.

and immediately pour over the

artichokes.

Serve hot.

I

LAZIO

1

saucepan and when

Stir well

boned, and chopped

CARCIOFI ALLA GIUDIA

for

Meanwhile, make the sauce. Chop the eggs, parsley,

2 large hard-boiled eggs,

I

JEWISH -STYLE ARTICHOKES Rome.

This dish

is

Remove

the hard outer leaves

typical of

back the stems, leaving only

from the artichokes, cut 1

inch,

and with

a very

sharp knife begin to shape the artichokes from the bot-

tom upward, turning to remove only the hard leaves; at the

flower.

Rub

end each artichoke should be

the artichokes

all

part of the

similar to a

over with half a lemon and

put them in a bowl of water acidulated with the

juice.

Drain the artichokes, dry them, and press them top-

677

down

against a hard surface to

and pepper the and when

1

olive oil

saucepan

0 minutes; turn them over and cook the

same

other side for the sprinkle

leaves. Salt

olive oil in a

hot immerse the artichokes, stem up, and

it is

fry for about

expand the

Heat the

insides.

them with

a

period.

When

they are cooked

cold water to draw out the

little

and make them even more

Drain on paper

crisp.

towels and serve hot.

CARCIOFI ALLA

MATTICELLA

LAZIO

I

YINE-ROASTED ARTICHOKES Matticella

is

the small bundle of dried vine shoots consid-

ered indispensable for making the right kind of bed of emZi

bundle matticella

(vine shoots;

see note)

4 garlic cloves, minced

Yi

5 sprigs mint,

minced

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

8 globe artichokes Salt

bers,

due to the fragrance

Velletri

Prepare a

While

imparts. This dish

it

is

typical of

and Rome. fire

this

of dried vine shoots (or a charcoal

cooks

the garlic, mint,

down salt,

grill)

.

make the filling. Mix oil. Remove the tough

to embers,

and

olive

outer leaves from the artichokes, cutting away the stalks to leave only about

1

Pound

inch.

the artichokes

on

a

table so that the leaves separate, then stuff them with the

Thus prepared, place them on the fire. They when the outer leaves turn a good brown

filling

are cooked

color

CARCIOFI ALLA

ROMANA LAZIO

and are

ROMAN-STYLE ARTICHOKES This dish

is

Combine 2tbsp. finely chopped 1

flat-leaf

Serve hot.

crisp.

Rome and

typical of

the parsley, garlic,

tablespoon olive

oil

Lazio.

and mint

and season with

in a bowl.

Add

and pepper.

salt

parsley

Peel the external leaves off the artichokes, then use a chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely

knife to trim 3

1

bunches fresh mint, finely chopped

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

8 large globe artichokes

Juice of Salt

1

lemon

and pepper

the leaves

stems.

them from

a

bottom upward, removing

rounded shape; clean the

To prevent blackening soak them

ulated with

lemon

juice.

mixture.

.

Fill

in water acid-

Gently open the artichokes

and with a teaspoon remove any of the heart (the “choke”)

central

downy

the interior with the prepared

Close and arrange in tight rows in a wide pan

with relatively high

sides.

ing extra-virgin olive

678

the

and giving them

oil,

Pour over them the remainthen add water until they are

Cover the pan and cook

nearly completely submerged.

over moderate heat until they are tender and the sauce

has reduced. They can be served hot or cold.

I

CARDI AL TARTUFO

PIEMONTE

I

CARDOONS WITH TRUFFLES This dish

is

typical of Alba.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Clean the cardoons, eliminatFor the cardoons: 3

A

cardoons

lb.

Juice of

1

lemon

3 tbsp. unsalted butter

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 4 large eggs, beaten 2 or 3 tbsp. heavy 1

white

truffle, finely

cream

ing

all

the outer fibers, hard outer leaves, and green

Cut

parts. boil

them

they do not turn black.

When

them and arrange them on

a cloth to

Meanwhile, use the butter,

bechamel sauce

shaved

the butter Salt

and pepper

For the bechamel sauce: 3 tbsp. unsalted butter 2 tbsp. all-purpose flour 1

cup milk Salt

the stalks in lengths of about 8 inches

in salted water acidulated with

Heat the remaining butter

in

Add

the eggs to the

well.

to prepare a

on page 339, cooking a paste, then whisk-

and

salt,

set

aside.

it

an ovenproof pan. Dice

Dust them with

the cardoon stalks and saute them.

Parmigiano-Reggiano and add

them dry

let

and milk

and flour together to make

ing in the milk and a pinch of

and

juice so

they are tender, drain

flour,

as in the recipe

lemon

and pepper

salt

to taste.

pan and, immediately afterward,

the bechamel sauce along with the

cream to obtain a Bake

mixture; sprinkle with the truffle.

soft

until the top

is

golden brown, about 20 minutes.

CARDI ALL’UOVO

BASILICATA

CARDOONS WITH EGG Clean the cardoons, cut them

them 2

lbs.

cardoons

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

2tsp.

chili

oil

pepper flakes

3 large eggs, beaten

4 or 5 tbsp. grated pecorino 2 tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

until tender.

them, heat the olive with the

chili.

1

in Vi-inch

chunks, and boil

Remove them from the liquid, drain oil in

a pan,

and saute them. Sprinkle

Just before serving

pan along with the pecorino and gether quickly, then remove the eggs from cooking too

it

add the eggs

to the

parsley; stir this to-

from the heat

to prevent

much. Serve piping

hot.

parsley

679

CARDOONS WITH EGG

CARDI ALLA RATEDDESE

BASILICATA

This dish

is

2

typical of Atella.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Clean the cardoons, saving 3

lbs.

cardoons, best

if

gathered

only the ribs of the leaves.

during the period of Easter

until tender,

Beef broth

an ovenproof pan and pour

in

4 large eggs, beaten

Boil these in salted water

about 30 minutes.

Arrange the cardoons in

enough broth

cover them, then bake until almost

Grated aged pecorino

evaporated, about 45 minutes.

Salt

all

Remove

the

pan from the

oven and cover the cardoons with the eggs,

and pecorino.

to half

of the broth has

salt to taste,

Return the pan to the oven and bake

until the eggs are set.

CARDI ALL’ABRUZZESE

ABRUZZO

i

ABRUZZO-STYLE CARDOONS IN SAUCE Boil the cardoons in salted water to cover until tender,

then drain them and cut them in pieces. 3 lbs. large white

cardoons oil

2 tbsp. olive

oil

or unsalted butter

cup white wine vinegar

Vz

2 tsp. sugar, or as needed 1

Sweeten the vinegar

Add cream

tbsp. all-purpose flour

cup heavy cream, or as needed Vz

to taste with the sugar.

olive

When

cardoons have browned, sprinkle and toss with the

sins Zz

Heat the

or butter in a pan, add the cardoons, and saute.

to cover, then the vinegar mixture.

and pine nuts,

taste for salt, stir,

the

flour.

Add

rai-

and continue cook-

ing to reduce the liquid to a creamy sauce. Serve hot.

cup golden raisins Vz

cup pine nuts Salt

CARDI GRATINATI

PUGLIA

CARDOONS GRATINEE If

desired, add

some grated pecorino

to the

breadcrumbs

before sprinkling them over the cardoons. 3 lbs. cardoons 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1

bunch

flat-leaf parsley,

chopped

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

oil

cup breadcrumbs Salt

and pepper

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Use the ribs and stalks of the cardoons, eliminating the leaves. Cut away any hard parts

from the

stringy parts.

of about 8 inches.

and

strip off the filaments

and

sections into lengths

Boil these in salted water until ten-

der and, without draining them completely, arrange them in layers in a

680

stalks

Cut the remaining

baking pan; season with

garlic, parsley,

pepper, olive

oil,

utes, or until the

|

CARDI

IN

UMIDO OR FRITTI SICILIA To braise: 12 cardoons

12 anchovy 4

oz.

pecorino, cut

fillets

short strips

in

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

medium

onion,

Juice of Salt

oil

minced

for

20 min-

BRAISED OR FRIED

CARDOONS This dish

is

typical of Enna.

Clean the cardoons and Drain well and

let

them

boil

them

with anchovies and cheese. the onion,

and cook

until

it

in lightly salted water.

Stuff the cardoons

cool.

Heat the

oil in

a pan,

has taken on color.

cardoons, pepper, and lemon

juice.

Cook

at

add

Add

the

low heat for

several minutes until tender.

lemon

1

and pepper

To fry:

Cardoons, as above Olive

1

Bake

and breadcrumbs.

breadcrumbs are golden.

oil,

for frying

All-purpose flour for dredging

Clean, boil, and stuff the cardoons as above. Heat several inches of olive flour, dip

oil in

them

until golden.

a deep pan.

in the eggs

Dredge the cardoons

and breadcrumbs, then

in

fry

Serve hot.

3 large eggs, beaten 1

cup breadcrumbs

CAULIFLOWER CAVOLFIORE ALLA FANESE

MARCHE

AND OLIVES Clean and core the cauliflower and water to cover until

1

cauliflower

4 anchovy

fillets

2 tbsp. capers

cool

dente.

enough to handle, cut it into

in a salad bowl, ives.

al

boil

it

Drain

it

in lightly salted

and when

pieces.

it is

Arrange these

and add the anchovies, capers, and

Season with

salt,

pepper, and olive

ol-

oil.

2 tbsp. pitted black olives

%

cup extra-virgin Salt

olive oil

and pepper

CIAMBOTTA

BASILICATA

VEGETABLE STEW Heat half of the

olive oil in a large

cook the eggplant !4

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

olive oil in a

until golden.

pan and when

it is

hot

Heat the remaining

second pan and cook the potato and pepper

CONTINUED

681

0 Zt lb. eggplant, sliced

and salted

until the potato takes

to drain the bitter taste, then rinsed

Z2

lb.

potato, peeled

Zi lb.

and

sweet peppers, seeded,

rinsed and dried, and cut

in

Add

the eggplant.

and cubed

Cook

stir.

bles have

at

0 on a

color, then

little

low heat for

formed a

add them

the tomato puree, garlic, 1

and

to

salt

hour, until the vegeta-

stew.

strips

cups tomato puree

1

J4

1

garlic clove,

chopped Salt

Cl AM

BOTTA

CALABRIA

1

VEGETABLE STEW WITH CELERY Heat the ors,

1

tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

medium

oil

onion, sliced

and

olive oil in a

pan and add the onion.

add the remaining vegetables. chili

water

if

pepper and cook

at

As

it

col-

Add salt and pepper

low heat, adding a

little

necessary. Serve hot, garnished with basil leaves.

2 sweet peppers, sliced and seeded 3 potatoes, peeled and cubed 2 eggplants, peeled and sliced 2

plum tomatoes, chopped

peeled, seeded, and

2 celery stalks, chopped 8 pitted

green

Pinch

olives,

chili

chopped

pepper flakes Basil leaves

Salt

and pepper

CIAUREDDA

BASILICATA

ARTICHOKE AND FAVA BEAN STEW Heat the cetta.

14

2

cup extra-virgin

medium

olive oil

onions, minced

6 oz. pancetta, diced 3 lbs. fresh fava beans, shelled 7 artichokes,

cut 3

medium

trimmed and in

4 sections

potatoes, peeled and sliced Salt

682

olive oil in a

pan and add the onions and pan-

When the onions change color, add the fava beans,

artichokes,

and potatoes.

pan and cook

at

adding a

warm

little

low heat

Salt

and

stir,

then cover the

until the vegetables are tender,

salted water if necessary. Serve hot.

LOCAL TRADITION

CAROTE D VITERBO IN BAGNO AROM ATICO I

Jams and preserves made

with various vegetables cooked

exotic spices are an ancient tradition.

In

Viterbo, the local,

in

sugar and flavored with

and increasingly

rare, purple

carrots were especially prized not only for their intense violet color but also for their flavor

as early as the fifteenth century

—according

to records

from a

local

convent as well as

recipes unearthed from libraries and archives. Important guests and dignitaries would often be served various confeture

that they

were included

This preserve,

made

made from the famous

meals served

in

in

in

Viterbo

in

local carrots,

and history shows

honor of Giuseppi Garibaldi

requires a great deal of the rare purple carrots. Several pounds of the carrots

has been shown that even using ordinary orange or yellow carrots excellent result

—would be

fore being set out to dry slightly in size

in

cleaned, peeled, and briefly blanched

earthenware pan and

would then be drained and the vinegar put cloves,

and nutmeg, along with a

repeated a few times bit of

until

it

it

produce an

boiling

water be-

lot of

a

generous amount of high-

soak for several days. The carrots cooking pot with cinnamon sticks,

sugar, and boiled

down

slightly.

briefly. This

The carrots

step would be

the liquid reached a syrupy density but the carrots

still

re-

crunch. According to family tastes, occasionally other sweet ingredients,

such as chocolate, pine nuts, raisins, or candied

historically

in

will

to

fruit,

would be added. The finished

confection would be poured into glass jars, making sure to fully

were

876.

into a

left

would be added back to the reduced vinegar and cooked

tained a

1

—and

the sun for several days. After the carrots had reduced

and curled, they would then be covered with

quality vinegar in an

in

the traditional manner, takes several days to prepare and

was kept

in

CIOFFA ’MBRIICA

ABRUZZO

I

submerge the

carrots;

special earthenware jars and aged for years. Viterbo carrots

accompaniment

a favorite

to boiled meats.

DRUNKEN CAULIFLOWER This dish

is

typical of Giulianova. For the

wine use Trebbiano

or Orvieto. 3 lbs. cauliflower,

cut 14

in florets

Put the ingredients

in a

pan and add enough water

to

cover them

Cover the pan and slowly cook

at

and rinsed

cup extra-virgin

low heat, 14

fully.

olive oil

stirring, until the cauliflower is tender,

about

cup white wine

20 minutes. 2 bay leaves 2 garlic cloves Chili

pepper

flakes, to taste

Salt

683

CIPOLLINE

IN

SWEET-AND-SOUR ONIONS

AGRODOLCE

LOMBARDIA

This dish

is

typical of the area of Brianza.

Heat the butter and sugar 2tbsp. unsalted butter 1

/3 cup finely chopped 1

1

lb.

diately

pancetta

add the vinegar.

pinch of

tbsp. white wine vinegar

1

Stir,

the pancetta, then

imme-

then add the onions and a

Cover the pan, lower the

salt.

cook about

small white onions, peeled

in a pan, stirring until the

Add

sugar begins to darken.

tbsp. sugar

heat,

and

let

hour, by which time the onions should be

completely cooked and caramelized, looking shiny and

Salt

somewhat

dark.

LOCAL TRADITION

CIPOLLINE D’lVREA Ivrea onions have

turies pes.

been renowned for their small

—so famous were

size

and

fine, delicate flavor for

they that the great Artusi himself would use them

Connoisseurs prefer the nut-brown onions to the red-violet

are no larger than hazelnuts. Once exported to

cities all

cen-

in his reci-

varieties,

and most

across Piemonte and farther-

Switzerland, France, Spain, and the Americas, they are famously used

flung locales

in

in this rustic

glazed-onion side dish, a favorite accompaniment to braised or roasted

meats. The peeled onions would be added to a hot pan to saute olive

oil;

once they had achieved a nice color,

After the wine evaporated, the onions until

salt

in

melted butter and

and white wine would be added.

would be glazed with the addition

of

sugar

caramelized. A few drops of broth or meat drippings could be used to soften the

cooked onions.

I

CREPES

Al

SANGUINACCI

VALLE D'AOSTA

i

POTATO PANCAKES WITH BLOOD SAUSAGE Preheat the oven to 350°F. Separate one of the eggs and

whisk the white For the pancakes: 3 large eggs 3 potatoes, peeled,

cubed, and boiled

through a

until soft

sieve,

whole eggs,

1

the egg white.

remaining egg yolk, and olive

Cook

other small pan, using 2 tbsp. olive

this

oil.

Fold in

mixture in a pancake pan or

% cup

batter per pancake

and

oil

CONTINUED

684

peaks form. Pass the potatoes

then mix into them the remaining 2

flipping to

cook the pancakes on both

sides.

Keep them

,

For the

filling:

4 potatoes, peeled and cubed 1

leek,

chopped end rinsed

well

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 2 links blood sausage (available specialized food shops),

oil

in

Chopped Salt

CUCULLI

PIEMONTE

and

leek,

34 1

potatoes

14 lbs.

cup unsalted butter

sprig marjoram, minced

ture

fewer than

(1

number

the

it

through a

is

Work

sieve.

this

bubbling, about 20 minutes.

mixture together

Spoon

the mixture

POTATO BALLS Cuculli are often confused with friscieu (see

page 689) but

because they include potatoes.

Boil the potatoes in water to cover until soft, then drain.

When they

are cool

enough

to handle, grind

them

in a

mortar with pine nuts, butter, marjoram, and ParmigianoReggiano.

Add

Separately whip the egg whites until frothy.

the egg yolks to the potato mixture

getically with a

and

stir

ener-

wooden spoon to obtain a soft and creamy

of diners)

texture that Extra-virgin olive

by simmering the potatoes,

over the pancakes and serve.

2 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 3 large eggs

filling

with the blood sausage and cook in a pan until the mix-

cup pine nuts

34

the

olive oil in lightly salted water to cover until the

potatoes are tender. Puree the mixture in a blender, then

pass

differ 1

Make

warm.

oil,

is

not too

Heat

solid.

several inches of

for frying

olive oil in a high-sided pan.

Shape the potato mixture

cup breadcrumbs

1

them

into balls, dip

in

egg whites, then in breadcrumbs,

Salt

and with

ERBE

Dl

CAMPO AL BURRO

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

fry until golden. salt,

and

FIELD GREENS IN BUTTER This should be served as a side dish traditionally on June 24,

the feast day of 2 tbsp. unsalted butter (or 1

About 4 dandelion

(

lbs.

minced lardo)

or 2 garlic cloves

mixed

field

Taraxacum

herbs:

hawkbit ( Leontodon

hostilis),

maiden’s tears or bladder campion (Silene vulgaris), thistle (Cirsium

arvense), white

campion (Lychnis

alba), Venus’ looking glass (

St.

John. No exact quantities can be given for

the use of field herbs and greens. Mix those you have, taking into

account their sweet or bitter flavors and aiming for a

suitable final quantity.

Heat the butter or

officinale),

corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas)

Drain on paper towels, sprinkle

serve.

a

few minutes

a

little

and saute

1

or 2 garlic cloves

herbs in lightly salted water for

just until wilted.

cool, then roughly

Add

lardo

Cook the

until golden.

chop them.

Drain them,

Add them to

let

them

the pan.

pepper and cook for about 30 minutes, or

until tender.

Specularia speculum) Salt

and pepper

685

r

#

ertuti

LAZIO

I

BEANS AND GRAINS For the salame try to use Genoa or Finoccchiona.

Soak the legumes lb.

1

mixed dried legumes: beans,

chickpeas, 1

lentils,

tbsp. finely

cup

14

chopped prosciutto

finely

in water for

sciutto fat, pancetta,

chopped pancetta

2 tbsp. tomato paste

day to soften them, then

and salame

Heat the pro-

until lighdy colored,

Add

the tomato paste.

then

stir in

little

of their cooking liquid and cook to blend the flavors.

This should be served with

slices

the legumes with a

of whole-wheat bread.

whole-wheat bread

CON PEPERONI SECCHI ARROSTITI

FAGIOLI

CALABRIA

BEANS AND ROASTED DRIED PEPPERS Soften the beans in water for lightly salted

Vz lb.

dried beans

4 dried red peppers,

liquid

Cook

cook them

in

the peppers

them

on

to

a

Heat a grill

cook

grill

or broiler

or under a broiler

all

sides,

then chop

oil

chopped

cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf

night, then

into a salad bowl.

until puffy, turning Extra-virgin olive

2 garlic cloves, coarsely

1

water until tender; drain off most of the

and pour

until hot.

seeded and stemmed

14

1

each type separately until tender.

fat

small piece salame, chopped

Slices of

boil

fava beans, farro

them and add oil

and

to the beans.

flavor with garlic

and

Season with

salt

and

olive

parsley.

parsley Salt

FAGIOLINI DELL’OCCHIO

CON COTENNE

LOMBARDIA

BEANS AND PORK Soak the beans overnight, drain them, and then

them 1

lb.

dried beans

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

oil

tbsp. unsalted butter Zi oz.

lardo

2 celery stalks, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

medium

2

onions, finely sliced

2 garlic cloves, Yz 1

lb.

pork

minced

cup tomato puree

rind, parboiled

cut

and

in 14-inch-strips

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

686

and pepper

in fresh lightly salted water to cover, taking

off the heat

and

when almost

lardo until hot;

and tomato puree. with a

little

tender.

Heat the

add the vegetables,

Add

the pork rind

of their cooking water.

1

oil,

boil

them

butter,

cup water,

salt,

and beans, along

Cook for another 20

minutes and serve hot with a little pepper and ParmigianoReggiano.

LOCAL TRADITION FAGIOLI INFI ASCATI This recipe from Toscana for beans cooked

glass flask should ideally be

in a

made

with an authentic Chianti fiasco (with or without the straw), but any flask-shaped bottle with nothing attached to the inside will do.

soaked overnight and then poured

and

salt

and pepper, and the bottle

to be put over heat

and the water

of cotton to allow any

embers boil,

The dried cannellini beans would be

into the bottle with sage, olive filled

only three-quarters

full

steam to escape. The

bottle

oil,

a garlic clove,

of water. Since

it

was

stoppered with a wad

boiled, the bottle should be

would then be set

into

smoldering

the hearth at a 45-degree angle. After an hour, the water would start to

in

and after two more hours the beans should be cooked

wire hooked on one end would be sent

down the

—

at

which time

a length of

spear a single bean to test

bottle to

doneness. The beans would be carefully poured or shaken out of the bottle and into a bowl just before serving.

I

FAVE AL GUANCI ALE

LAZIO

I

FA¥A BEANS

AND GUANCIALE This dish

Shell 4/2

lbs. Zi

1

fresh small fava beans

cup extra-virgin

medium

olive oil

until the

Salt

and pepper

Rome. Guanciale

moment of cooking.

ware), heat the olive

onion, thinly sliced

cup diced guanciale

typical of

is

cured pork cheek.

and clean the fava beans and soak them

ciale. 1

is

1

in water

(best if earthen-

and saute the onion and guan-

After a few minutes, add the fava beans,

damp, along with minutes

oil

pan

In a

at

from time

salt

and pepper

high heat, adding to time

if

1

still

Cook 20

to taste.

tablespoon of warm water

necessary.

FAYA BEANS FAVE AL GUANCIALE

LAZIO

AND GUANCIALE If

you use dried fava beans previously boiled, cook them for

a shorter 434

lbs.

fresh fava beans,

best Vi

if

not too large

cup extra-virgin

time and add a

cooking. This dish

is

little

typical of

Shell the fresh fava beans

olive oil

CONTINUED

2

water.

Heat the

and

olive oil in a

and add the guanciale.

dry white wine during the

Rome. rinse

pan

When

them

(best

this

if

in

running

earthenware)

begins to color, add

687

0 6

oz.

guanciale, diced Salt

the fava beans with salt

and pepper

until the

beans are tender, adding a

from time

!

MARCHE

Variations: parboil the fava

water

beans

garlic, olive

salted water, then

in boiling

oil,

marjoram, and pepper; or

season the beans with a sauce of chopped fresh chives,

2 lbs. fresh fava beans, shelled

oil, salt,

2 anchovy fillets, boned and chopped

olive

and pepper.

Cook the fava beans in a little lightly salted boiling water, them when al dente. Combine the anchovies, garlic, and marjoram, chopping to blend. Add the vinegar, olive oil, salt, and pepper to make a sauce and pour

2 garlic cloves, minced

draining

Pinch marjoram 2 tbsp. white wine vinegar

cup plus 2 tbsp.

Salt

warm

FAVA BEANS

season them with

Z\

little

to time if necessary. Serve hot.

AND ANCHOVIES

FAVE ALLE ACCIUGHE

extra-virgin olive

r

and pepper and continue cooking

it

over the drained favas.

oil

and pepper

FAVE CON SALSA ALL’ACETO

CALABRIA

1

1

FAVA BEANS IN VINEGAR SAUCE Using a sharp

knife, cut

away the fibrous edge of the beans

without opening them, then rinse them and boil them 1

%

lbs.

fava beans, shelled

2 tbsp. olive

oil

2 garlic cloves 1

cup stale bread, crust removed Zi

cup white wine vinegar cup grated pecorino

Zi 1

cup fresh mint leaves

whole

in lightly salted water; drain

the olive color,

oil in

a

pan and add the

and

set aside.

garlic;

when

add the beans and cook over low heat.

it

Heat

changes

Meanwhile,

combine the bread, vinegar, cheese, and mint and work together well until blended der, turn off the heat

and

When the beans are just ten-

and add the bread sauce, blending

letting the dish rest before serving

it

hot or cold.

FAVA BEANS FAVE

E

CICORIE

PUGLIA

AND CHICORY This dish

is

1

typical of the area of Daunia. There are local

variations of this recipe in several areas of Puglia. There are

who change

the texture of the fava puree by adding

a boiled potato. In

other places the favas and chicory are

those

worked together before being served. There are also those

who spicy

688

drizzle the dish with olio chili

pepper).

santo

(olive oil infused with

1

1

lb.

% cups

Soak the favas

dried fava beans

chicory

(if

Extra-virgin olive

Once cooked,

ing water until tender.

Salt

be crushed, drizzled with

wooden spoon.

I

CICORIA

E

BASILICATA

I

more

2 lbs. chicory lb.

1

1

dried fava beans

celery stalk,

medium 2tsp.

onion,

chili

Cook

Cook

the chicory in lightiy salted boiling water.

and onion

in lightly salted boiling

water to cover, then puree them in a blender and combine them with

make

chopped

and season

A few tbsp. extra-virgin

oil.

FAYA BEANS

chopped

pepper flakes

olive

AND CHICORY 2 the fava beans, celery,

1

the beans should

and mashed with a

olive oil,

Serve the mashed beans on a bed of

chicory, drizzled with

FAVETTE

low

in lightly salted water at

Separately cook the chicory in lightly salted boil-

heat.

oil

Drain them and

for at least 12 hours.

cook them for about 3 hours

possible wild,

can substitute escarole)

a

salt,

pepper,

smooth puree. it

with olive

chili,

and enough

olive oil to

Drain the chicory when tender

Mix

oil.

the chicory and favas

and serve on toasted bread.

olive oil

Slices of toasted bread

and pepper

Salt

FRISCIEU

VEGETABLE FRITTERS

LIGURIA

This dish

typical of Genoa. Another classic variation of

is

friscieu consists of using chickpea flour. This

334 cups all-purpose flour 234 tbsp. active dry yeast 4 large eggs, beaten

in

traditionally ing, for it

Extra-virgin olive

2

lbs.

oil,

preboggion

(see page 292), cut

in

strips

4 large egg whites,

beaten

1

must be worked

tablespoon active dry yeast. This batter,

prepared the evening before use, must

the entire night. Before frying

into balls a

little

it,

rest, ris-

use a spoon to shape

larger than a walnut, and add salt (not too

for frying

much

since

plate)

and minced (or dried) marjoram. Fry and serve.

mixed vegetables:

lettuce, radicchio,

Combine

much

until frothy

to 2

warm water with

cups breadcrumbs Salt

it

is

better to sprinkle

the flour, yeast,

salt as desired.

make

a deep

pan

until hot.

batter only at the last

on the hot friscieu

and eggs

in a bowl,

Combine with

a batter, then let

increased in volume.

it

it

rest

just

the

adding as

enough water

30 minutes

until

Heat several inches of olive

Add

in

it

has

oil in

the desired vegetables to the

moment, then shape

the batter into

small balls (using a spoon), dip these in the egg whites,

then in the breadcrumbs.

Fry

Drain on paper towels and serve

to a nice

golden color.

hot.

689

BAKED OMELET WITH PORK AND POTATOES

FRITTATA ALL’AM ATRICIAN A

ABRUZZO 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

Z2 medium 4

oil

(or lard)

olive oil (or lard) in a

As soon

as the onion changes color,

and potatoes and

onion, finely sliced

the mixture

guanciale, cubed

oz.

Heat the

and

lillo

and

a pinch of

the eggs, then

stir in

to

keep

bottom of the pan.

add the diavo-

quickly, always using the

salt. Stir

finely sliced

wooden spoon.

10 large eggs, beaten 1

sticking to the

After a few minutes,

2 potatoes, peeled, boiled,

add the guanciale

wooden spoon

well with a

stir

from

pan and add the onion.

the

diavolillo (spicy chili pepper,

pan

turn

see note, page 22)

it

As soon

slightly to

over,

as the eggs begin to set, shake

detach the

and cook

it

should be kept high during

Salt

the frittata will be golden inside

and

will

side.

The

heat

of these operations so that

all

on the outside and

not absorb too

tata immediately, while

from the bottom,

frittata

on the other

much

it is still

fat.

soft

on the

Serve the

frit-

hot.

SPRING VEGETABLES

WITH VINEGAR

FRITTEDDA SICILIA

In

general, frittedda

more so 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

flavorful

if

eaten cold, even

it

can just as well

serve as an antipasto or side dish.

Heat

2 lbs. mixed vegetables, divided

among

more

is

allowed to rest for 24 hours before being eaten.

Usually eaten as a one-dish evening meal,

oil

3 small onions, finely sliced

equally

if

fresh peas, fava

several cups of water to boiling.

in a saute pan;

Heat the

olive oil

add the onions, mixed vegetables,

salt,

beans, and artichoke hearts, sliced

and pepper, and cook

for a

few minutes.

Add

the vin-

2 or 3 tbsp. white wine vinegar

egar and 2 tbsp.

chopped

flat-leaf

constantly until

CIPOLLINE selvatiche

Dl

CALABRIA

I

A

lb.

muscari (wild onions; can use

ramps or

Remove

the outer layer from the onions

scallions

if

Z3

Parboil

salted water, then drain

them

and cut them

a few minutes in lighdy

and dry them.

Prepare a batter,

necessary)

combining the 1

with parsley.

WILD ONION FRITTERS in short lengths.

3

evaporates, then continue

The dish is finished when the mixture becomes creamy. If desired, finish

FRITTELLE

it

cooking, adding small amounts of boiling water as needed.

and pepper

Salt

stir

parsley

(optional)

flour,

egg yolks, wine, a pinch of salt, pars-

cups all-purpose flour ley, 2 large

and pepper.

Stir

with a

wooden spoon to mix evenly.

egg yolks

CONTINUED

Add

the tablespoon of olive

oil

and a

little

cold water,

working with the spoon to obtain a somewhat dense

690

5

Zi

cup dry white wine

2tbsp. finely chopped flat-leaf 1

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

more

plus Salt

parsley oil,

pan.

this rest

Heat about

onions.

Drop

on both

about Zi

in the batter

1

0 minutes, then mix in the

inch of olive

oil in

a high-sided

by spoonfuls and fry

until

golden

Drain on paper towels and serve hot.

sides.

for frying

and freshly ground pepper

FUNGHI FRITTI

CALABRIA

FRIED MUSHROOMS Clean the mushrooms, then chop them. Blanch them for 5

1

lb.

Zi

1

Let

liquid.

lattaruli

(mushrooms)

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

2 garlic cloves,

minced

red or green pepper, seeded,

stemmed, and chopped

minutes in

saute;

Add

lightly salted boiling water.

Heat the

aside.

when

it

olive oil in a pan,

Drain and

add the

garlic,

set

and

begins to color, add the mushrooms.

the pepper and salt and finish cooking.

rooms should be

browned and

lightly

paper towels and serve

at

The mush-

wilted.

Drain on

room temperature.

Salt

GATTO

Dl

PATATE

CAMPANIA

POTATO AND CHEESE GALETTE This dish

is

8

pOR PERSONS

typical of Naples.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 10- or 12-inch round 14 lb. (1 stick)

unsalted butter,

cake pan with some of the butter and dust with some of

softened 5 tbsp.

breadcrumbs

the breadcrumbs. Boil the potatoes in salted water to

cover until they are easily pierced with a knife. While 3 lbs. all-purpose potatoes

6 large eggs, beaten Zi

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Zi

cup milk

6 oz. prosciutto, cubed

4

oz.

8 oz. mozzarella,

in

small cubes

smoked

in

small cubes

provola,

Salt

and pepper

they are

warm,

still

peel

them and put them through

a food mill or sieve to puree them.

bowl and mix

in the eggs, a

Put the puree

pinch of

salt,

in a

pepper, 6

ta-

blespoons of the butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano, milk, and prosciutto.

Spread half of the potato mixture into the

prepared pan and cover

it

with mozzarella and provola.

Cover with the remaining potato mixture, using spread

it

evenly and form a

flat

surface.

a fork to

Sprinkle with

the remaining breadcrumbs, dot with the remaining butter,

and bake

for about

oped a nice brown

30 minutes, or

color.

until

it

has devel-

Let the casserole rest for

1

minutes before serving.

691

*

#

GLIE

ZEPPOLONE LAZIO

CHICORY GALETTE This dish

is

typical of Spigno Saturnia.

Clean the chicory or other greens 2 lbs. chicory or other wild greens

2tbsp. olive

oil

2 garlic cloves

bunch

1

and

them

salt Va 1

cup chopped mint leaves

fresh

pepper, minced

chili

2 tbsp. white wine vinegar Va

dry.

GOBBO

and pepper.

IN

UMIDO

4 oz. lardo

medium

onion, sliced

sprig fresh

marjoram

cardoon, cut

in

strips

and parboiled Va 1

dissolved

in

cup white wine

tbsp.

Wring

pan and add the greens,

olive oil in a

and

chili

pepper and season with

Sprinkle with vinegar.

Stir in the

cornmeal with a wooden spoon and cook for 2 minutes.

Using a small pan shape

it

lid,

into a large cake

press

down on

and brown

it

the mixture to

on both

sides.

BRAISED CARDOON For the wine use Verdicchio or Trebbiano.

Heat the

1

Heat the

and pepper

MARCHE

1

roughly chop,

cup cornmeal

Salt

1

well,

in water to cover until tender.

garlic, parsley, mint,

chopped

flat-leaf parsley,

them

boil

lardo in a

pan over low heat

until the fat

is

ren-

dered, then add the onion and marjoram and cook until fragrant.

When

Add

the cardoon.

Sprinkle with the wine.

the wine has evaporated,

mixture,

salt,

add the tomato paste

pepper, and cinnamon.

serve sprinkled with cheese and

lemon

Cook slowly and zest to taste.

tomato paste, warm water

2 tbsp.

Va tsp.

ground cinnamon

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Grated zest of Salt

IMBROGLIATA

Dl

1

lemon

and pepper

CARCIOFI

LIGURIA Va

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

6 artichokes,

cleaned and finely chopped

SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH ARTICHOKES typical of Oneglia.

This dish

is

Heat the

olive oil in a

for 5 minutes, then

and

butter, stirring to scramble.

pepper

to taste.

3 large eggs, beaten

eggs are just Vi

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1

tbsp. unsalted butter Salt

692

and pepper

pan and add the

set.

artichokes.

Cook

add the eggs, Parmigiano-Reggiano,

Cook for

Season with

salt

and

only a few minutes, until the

CAPRI SALAD

INSALATA CAPRESE

Use large, round plum tomatoes so that when sliced length-

CAMPANIA

wise the slices of tomato lb.

1

plum

of fior di latte.

torrlatoes,

sliced lengthwise

be almost as large as the slices is

to dice both the

cheese and tomatoes and mix them with the

10 02 fior di latte cheese

salad bowl.

.

(preferably from Agerola or treccia

On

from Sorrento; fresh mozzarella

At the

Vi cup basil leaves, whole or cut into strips

oil

In

olive oil in a

that case, serve with chopped basil.

a serving plate alternate slices of

of fior di

could also be used)

Extra-virgin olive

will

An even simpler method

latte ,

tomato with those

overlapping them; top with basil leaves.

table each diner should season the salad with olive

and

salt to taste.

oil

Salt

I

INSALATA CON SPECK

ALTO ADIGE

I

BITTER GREENS SALAD WITH WARM BACON DRESSING Rinse the radicchio and dry

Heat the

bowl. 4 heads red radicchio or 2 of curly endive, outer leaves

well; place in a serving

heat over low heat to render the

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

stir in

the vinegar.

When Use

the speck this

sauce

oil

to season the salad,

adding

salt

6 oz. speck (or pancetta), diced 2 tbsp. white wine vinegar Salt

pan and add the speck; fat.

removed

turns golden yellow, 1

it

olive oil in a saute

and pepper

to taste.

Serve immediately.

and pepper

INSALATA DI CICORIA DEI PR ATI ALLA PANCETTA

VALLE D'AOSTA

DANDELION AND PANCETTA SALAD This local recipe

is

very old and

shared with Switzerland

is

and Savoy. 2

oz.

pancetta, 8 small

About 8 cups

in

small dice

bread rounds

(1 lb.)

dandelion

Cook ing

it.

the pancetta in a

skillet at

low heat without burn-

When all the fat has melted, remove the pancetta

from the pan, add the bread rounds, and brown them.

greens, cleaned and dried

Toss the bread and the 2 tbsp. red (or as

fat

from the pan with the dande-

wine vinegar

much as

desired)

2 large hard-boiled eggs, sliced

lion.

Sprinkle with vinegar,

salt,

and hard-boiled

eggs.

Serve warm.

Salt

693

INSALATA

D

I

NATALE

CHRISTMAS SALAD

SICILIA

The quantities of the ingredients can be changed, but use chicory and celery

About 8 cups chicory 2

lbs. celery,

chopped (about 8 cups)

drain them, and

A cup olive oil

them with

2 tbsp. capers, well rinsed 1

slices, for

garnish

Lemon

slices, for

garnish

INSALATA

1

slices.

OLIVE VERDI SCHIACCIATE SICILIA

I

Mix them and

cool.

and

Arrange

olives.

lb.

green olives

A cup chopped celery leaves 2 A cup chopped mint leaves

2

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

Sprinkle with pomegranate seeds.

A variation calls for the addition of

oil

tbsp. white wine vinegar

in tiny

Crush the

olives,

removing

their pits,

to soften in water for 3 days,

day.

some

spicy chili pepper

pieces.

At the end of

this

and

set

INSALATA

olive oil, vinegar,

Dl

time put the olives in a salad

and

salt

and

serve.

LAMPASCIONI

hyacinth. To prepare the salad, first the outer leaves

then be thoroughly cleaned and soaked for a day

must be cut away. The bulb would

in

several changes of cold water.

On the next day, the lampascioni would be boiled and then

would be drained and seasoned with

parsley, tossed,

694

aside

bowl and add the celery leaves and mint. Season with

This rustic salad recipe from Basilicata uses the lampascioni, the bulb of the wild

it

them

changing the water every

LOCAL TRADITION

cool,

on

and decorate with orange and lemon

Salt

Once

season this

SALAD OF CRUSHED OLIVES cut

1

them

pomegranate

Dl

1

let

and chopped

Orange

Seeds from

equal quantities.

olive oil, capers,

a serving plate

tbsp. green olives,

pitted

in

Separately boil the chicory and the celery until tender,

and served as a refreshing salad.

salt,

left

to cool in the water.

pepper, vinegar, olive

oil,

and

INVOLTINI D

I

MELANZANE SICILIA

EGGPLANT ROLL-UPS Peel the eggplants, cut

them, and

thin, salt 4 medium-size eggplants 1

cup fresh tomato puree

% cup grated 1

Parmigiano-Reggiano

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

tbsp. or

more grated pecorino

them

in slices that are not too

them

aside for an

hour

to lose

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cover the

their bitter taste.

bottom of a baking dish with some of the tomato puree, sprinkle the puree with 2 tablespoons of the Parmigiano-

Reggiano, and

4 oz. crustless bread 1

set

Rinse and dry the eggplant

set aside.

slices.

Heat V2 cup

plant.

Cook

pan and add the egg-

olive oil in a

until lightly

browned, then

set

them out on

(optional) 1

Vi

garlic clove, finely

cup chopped 1

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

large egg, beaten Salt

and pepper

paper towels to drain away the grease. ing:

fill-

combine the bread with Z2 cup of the Parmigiano-

Reggiano (and the pecorino egg,

Prepare the

and pepper.

salt,

remaining olive

oil to

Distribute this

them up around

filling it,

if

desired), garlic, parsley,

Work this together well with the make a dense and moist mixture. on the

slices

of eggplant,

and arrange them

in the

roll

prepared

Cover with more of the tomato puree and

baking dish.

Bake

dust with the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano. for 10 minutes, until golden.

INVOLTINI

Dl

PEPERONI

CAMPANIA

PEPPER ROLL-UPS This dish

is

typical of Naples.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a baking pan

% 2/i

cup lbs.

olive oil

peppers

6 oz. stale bread, soaked

in

milk

and squeezed dry 3 large eggs, beaten 1

1

A

oil.

Roast the peppers over a flame, skin them,

and cut each one

in half,

removing the

bine the bread with the eggs and (except the breadcrumbs). parts

all

Divide

seeds.

Com-

the other ingredients this

mixture in equal

among the pepper halves and wrap them up around

Arrange these roll-ups

in the

baking pan, dust with

cut

in

small bits

it.

cups Emmental, cut

in

small bits

breadcrumbs, and bake for about 20 minutes, or

1

Zi

% cups mozzarella,

with olive

cup prosciutto

cotto,

minced

the filling

is

hot.

until

Let rest 10 minutes and serve warm.

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

A

cup

basil,

torn Vi

in

small pieces

cup breadcrumbs Salt

and pepper

695

LOCAL TRADITION

LAMPASCIONI FRITTI For this recipe from Basilicata, the lampascioni (wild hyacinth bulbs) would be cleaned,

scored

lightly,

and rinsed under cold running water to remove some

of the bulbs’

characteristic bitterness. After rinsing, the bulbs would be parboiled to mellow the flavor further,

and then drained. A second cooking

fresh water would soften

in

until

tender. Once they were tender, the lampascioni would be dredged lightly

then

in a

beaten egg, and again

in

breadcrumbs and

The fried lampascioni then needed only a

LARDARI AL POMODORO

I

CAMPANIA

fried

lb.

This dish

2tbsp. olive 1

%

garlic clove,

cup chopped

2 or 3

to boil

lardari (see note)

is

add the basil,

Salt

Dl

PATATE

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA 1

A

lbs.

potatoes, peeled

2 tbsp. unsalted butter 1

large egg yolk

]/3Cup all-purpose flour Olive

oil,

I

oil.

fry

lardari in a

garlic.

beans

was once common custom

it

them along with

basil

and

salt in

pan with

boiling water to cover until

Heat the

olive oil in a

pan and

Cook until it turns light brown, then add the

tomatoes,

salt,

and

When a uniform

lardari.

sauce

POTATO CRESCENTS Boil the potatoes, drain them, then crush with a potato

Add

salt.

add the butter and egg the mixture the

dough

and work

When

yolk.

inch of olive

and

the puree has cooled,

Next, blend the flour into

this into a soft

dough.

into cylinders about the length

pinky and curl them to form 1

salt

olive

has formed, remove the pan from the heat and serve.

for frying

Coarse

little

beans can be used instead.

ricer or sieve. 3

lard:

tender. Drain very well.

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

LUNETTE

name from

them and then

Cook the

chopped

basil leaves

a

typical of Salerno. Lardari are large green

lard. Giant fava

oil

in

being served hot.

LARDARI WITH TOMATOES that get their

1

golden

till

salt before

little

them

in flour,

oil until

fry for about

lunettes (crescents)

moderately hot, add the

20 minutes,

Roll out

and width of a

until they swell

.

Heat lunettes ,

up and

have taken on a golden color. Drain on paper towels and serve

696

them warm sprinkled with coarse

salt.

MARINATED LETTUCE

MAPPINA

CALABRIA

Serve this dish, which

is

typical of Cosenza, as you

normal salad. The lettuce 1

1

1

maine, or green

small, fresh, mildly hot

pepper, chopped

chili

Zi tsp.

it

would any

becomes infused with

refreshing crispness. Choose

a sturdy type of lettuce such as frisee (curly endive), ro-

minced

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

some

the marinade but retains

head tettuce

garlic clove,

wilts as

leaf.

Separate the leaves of the lettuce. Rinse well, drain, and

oil

dry

sea salt

it

as best as possible.

Tear the lettuce into bite-size

pieces. Place the lettuce in a large garlic, chili

pepper, and

salt.

plate, just smaller in size

salad.

can,

Then

bowl and

toss with the

Drizzle with the

Set a

oil.

than the bowl, on top of the

place a weight, such as a large heavy jar or

on top of the

plate to apply pressure. Place this in

the refrigerator for a few hours. Toss the lettuce again

before serving.

LOCAL TRADITION

LAMPASCIONI Sweet-and-sour muscari

is

IN

another rustic dish from Basilicata that makes use of the

lampascioni, or the bulb of the wild hyacinth. boiled as

is

common

remove most

to

AGRODOLCE

of

its

In

this dish,

seeded, and chopped plum tomatoes would then be olive

oil;

after a

it

would be cleaned and par-

bitterness and to tenderize lightly

cooked

in

it.

Two

a hot

peeled,

pan with

few minutes, the muscari would be added and crushed with

a fork.

Sugar, vinegar, and salt would follow and be cooked together for a few minutes to

make

A

a true agrodolce.

MELANZANE BARCHETTA

BASILICATA 3 eggplants (about 2 tbsp.

1

Vi lbs.)

breadcrumbs

CONTINUED

I

EGGPLANT BOATS Cut

the eggplants in half lengthwise, scoop out the pulp,

and

set

it

aside.

Salt the

hollowed halves and set them

out to dry in the sun for several hours.

Preheat the

oven to 350°F. Meanwhile, chop up the eggplant pulp and

mix with

salt,

breadcrumbs, parsley, salame, provola,

697

'A

cup chopped

flat-leaf

Zi lb. provola,

% 1

pecorino, and eggs. Heat half the olive

parsley

salame, diced

Zi lb.

cook the eggplant halves

cup grated pecorino

cook the pulp mixture

or 2 large eggs, beaten Zi

cup

a

oil in

pan and

until golden; place in a

pan. Heat the remaining olive

diced

baking

same pan and

the

oil in

until the eggs are just set.

Fill

the halves with the pulp mixture; pour the tomato puree

olive oil

Bake

over them.

5 tbsp. tomato puree

30 minutes, or

for

bubbling and the stuffing

is

until the sauce

is

and cut them lengthwise

to

browned.

Salt

FRIED EGGPLANT MELANZANE A BECCAFICO SICILIA

!

SANDWICHES This dish

4 eggplants (about 2 1

6

lbs.)

Zi

cups pecorino, cubed

oz.

salt-cured anchovies,

rinsed and chopped

typical of Enna.

is

Trim and

peel the eggplants,

form % -inch-thick

Sprinkle with

slices.

about dry,

slices,

and

set

salt

and

set

them

aside to dry for

At the end of that time, wipe the

hour.

1

number of

trying for an even

them on

a

work

slices

On half of the slices

surface.

Basil leaves

filling composed of a few cubes of the pecorino, amount of the anchovies, and a leaf of basil.

arrange a Olive

oil,

for frying

2 large eggs, beaten

a small

Cover each of these with another

of eggplant and

slice

Salt

Heat

secure each sandwich with a toothpick. olive oil in a saute

pan over medium heat

picks

and serve

until golden.

inch of

Dip

Turn

the sandwiches in the eggs, then fry them.

cook on the other side

1

until hot.

Remove

to

the tooth-

hot.

TWICE-FRIED EGGPLANT MELANZANE A BECCAFICO SICILIA

SANDWICHES Trim and into

3 eggplants (about Olive

7 oz. (about (soft,

1

oil,

Zn

1

Zi lbs.)

for frying

cups)

tuma

peel the eggplants

% -inch-thick

slices.

2 hours.

Salt

slices,

them and

Wipe

and cut them lengthwise

trying for an even set

them out

the slices dry. Heat

Vs

number of

to dry for

inch olive

pan. Fry the eggplant on one side only.

about

oil in

Lay out

a

half

tangy cheese), cubed

the slices with the cooked side

down and

arrange across

6 oz. salt-cured anchovies,

rinsed and chopped 1

bunch

basil

4 large eggs, beaten Salt

them equal

quantities of the cheese, anchovies,

leaves; cover

each with another

slice,

cure these “sandwiches” with toothpicks.

of olive

oil in

a saute

698

Heat

pan over medium heat

Coat the sandwiches with egg, then

and

basil

cooked side up. Se-

fry

them

Vz

inch

until hot.

in the olive

oil until

fully.

A

MELANZANE FUNGHETTO

CAMPANIA

I

I

they are golden brown, turning

Remove

the toothpicks

them very

and serve piping

FRIED EGGPLANT WITH TOMATO SAUCE This dish

is

typical of Naples. There are no

this dish; instead, eggplant

is

mushrooms

cooked as though

3 lbs. eggplant (about 6

medium)

mushrooms. A

Extra-virgin olive

for frying

tomato sauce) of rinsed capers and

pitted olives.

Trim and

them with

oil,

2 garlic cloves, chopped

cup fresh chopped tomato

1

%

cup chopped

basil leaves

Salt

it

a cloth,

without peeling them cut them into y2 -inch cubes. these in a colander

and sprinkle with

squeeze them

olive oil in a high-sided

pan

Heat

until hot, then

When

deep-fry the eggplant pieces, a few at a time. they begin to brown,

skimmer or

slotted

lift

them out of the pan with

spoon and

cook the

olive oil

garlic.

eggplant. basil.

BASILICATA

oil will

stale

1

1

1

bunch

roll,

cup

crust removed

pitted black olives

flat-leaf parsley,

4

oz.

medium)

chopped

salt-cured anchovies,

rinsed and chopped Zi

cup capers, rinsed and chopped Pinch oregano

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

off.

to

add

after 2 to 3 minutes, the

Salt to taste, turn off the heat,

and add the

Serve warm.

BAKED EGGPLANT Peel the eggplants, cut

them in half lengthwise, and make

several lengthwise incisions in the pulp. 2 lbs. eggplant (about 4

drain

garlic begins to darken,

pan and,

a

a plate

from the pan, leaving enough

When the

the tomatoes to the

them on

set

lined with paper towels so the excess

Pour out the

Put

up most of

dry them.

slightly to

and

After about

salt.

half an hour, the eggplants will have given

V2 inch of

in

were

variation calls for the addition (along with the

rinse the eggplants, dry

their liquid;

MELANZANE AL FORNO

care-

hot.

set

them out

400°F.

to dry for

Crumble

1

the bread into a bowl and

olives, parsley, anchovies, capers,

the eggplant halves, dry

them

filling,

Drizzle with olive

oil,

well,

topping

them and

mix

and oregano.

it

in the

Rinse

and arrange them

an ovenproof pan with the cut side up. with some of the

Salt

Preheat the oven to

hour.

in

Cover each half

with some tomatoes.

then bake for about

1

hour, or

until tender.

2 ripe

Extra-virgin olive

oil

Salt

699

0

MELANZANE ALLA FINETESE

CALABRIA

EGGPLANT AND SAUSAGE Cut

the eggplants into ‘/4-inch slices

lightly salted

medium)

2 lbs. eggplant (about 4

6 oz. provolone, thinly sliced 6

oz.

spicy cured sausage,

0

and

the slices

and parboil them

set

them out on

Cover half of each pair with

work surface

a

slices

in

Dry

water until tender, about 8 minutes.

in pairs.

of provolone and sau-

sage, then cover with the remaining eggplant slices.

thinly sliced

Heat Olive

oil,

inch of olive

1

Dip the

a high-sided pan.

oil in

for frying

3 or 4 large eggs, beaten

All-purpose flour for dredging

paired slices in egg, then in flour, then fry oil until

them

in olive

golden.

Salt

MELANZANE ALLA MENTA

CALABRIA

EGGPLANT AND MINT Trim

off the ends of the eggplants, then cut

Scoop out

parts lengthwise. 3 eggplants (about

1

cup extra-virgin

them

in four

of the pulp, then

little

%

the quarters to create short sticks about

slice Va

a

Zz lbs.)

inch

olive oil

Heat

thick.

inch of olive

1

pan and

a

oil in

fry until

6 fresh mint leaves, chopped

golden. Lift 1

them out of the

oil

and

set aside

on paper

tbsp. white wine vinegar

towels to drain, sprinkling with

salt.

Pour out most of

3tbsp. breadcrumbs

the

oil,

leaving only a few tablespoons, then add the mint

Salt

to the

pan and cook

it

for a

few minutes. Return the

eggplant sticks to the pan and add the vinegar.

MELANZANE ALLA PARMIGI ANA

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

well to blend, then

add the breadcrumbs

some of the cooking

liquid.

(about 2

up

Serve cold.

EGGPLANT BRAISED WITH TOMATOES Cut the eggplants

in long, lengthwise slices

drain

them

well

and

set

them

and simmer

When

in water to cover until slightly wilted. 4 firm eggplants, peeled

Stir

to soak

aside to dry,

if

cooked,

possible

on

lbs.)

Heat the butter and

a cutting

board

in a pan;

add the onion and cook

in the sun.

olive oil

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

medium

until

it

changes color.

oil

Add

the prosciutto crudo

and brown

Add

it.

the to-

onion, finely sliced

mato puree and eggplant

slices.

Cook

this at

low heat

3 oz. prosciutto crudo, cut z

/3

700

in

cubes

cup tomato puree

for about

1

hour

until the eggplant

is soft,

then serve.

LOCAL TRADITION

MELANZANE SOTT’ACETO comes from

This recipe for pickled eggplant

trimmed, peeled, cut

move excess

liquid

into long strips,

Calabria. The eggplants are cleaned,

and salted

in

and bitterness. Once squeezed

a large bowl for a

dry, the strips

wine vinegar and set aside again. After a couple of hours

in

once again squeezed to remove any excess vinegar and layered

between fresh mint leaves and the shoots of wild gently

DAI

and covered with

MELANZANE CENTO SAPORI

I

CALABRIA

olive

oil

Trim and

medium)

two months.

peel the eggplants, then cut

Put these

Add

zest.

4 tbsp. white wine vinegar 1

pressed down

in a

them

into small

saucepan with the sugar, vinegar,

chocolate, walnuts, pine nuts, cinnamon, raisins,

3tbsp. sugar

vases

into terra-cotta

fennel. They are then

at least

re-

lOO-FLAYOR EGGPLANT cubes.

2 lbs. eggplant (about 4

and aged for

few hours to

are covered with white

the vinegar, the strips are

Cook

at

the olive

oil, salt

medium-low heat

to taste,

and

stir

until the eggplant

and

citron

to blend. is soft.

unsweetened chocolate, chopped

oz.

14

cup walnuts, chopped

%

cup pine nuts

Pinch ground cinnamon Zi

cup

warm 1

raisins,

soaked

in

water, then drained

tbsp. grated citron zest

(can use lemon)

%

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

Salt

I

MELANZANE

E

POMODORI

CALABRIA 4 eggplants (about 2

lbs.)

4 large eggs, beaten

CONTINUED

I

EGGPLANTS

AND TOMATOES Clean the eggplants and cut them

in small cubes.

the cubes in salted water for about

1

mix

the eggs

and pecorino and

drain the eggplant cubes. Heat

hour.

set aside. Z*

Put

Meanwhile, Rinse and

inch of olive

oil in

a

high-sided pan and fry the eggplant cubes until golden.

701

Add the tomatoes and egg mixture and

2 tbsp. grated pecorino Olive oil

eggs until they are

set.

stir

to

cook the

Serve immediately.

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 4

Salt

MELANZANE RIPIENE PUGLIA

STUFFED EGGPLANTS This dish

is

typical of Brindisi.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking pan with olive Extra-virgin olive

oil

oil.

4 medium-size eggplants (about 2

Cut

the eggplants in half lengthwise

Chop the pulp into

the pulp.

and scoop out

small pieces. Heat about

%

lbs.)

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

inch of olive

oil in

pan and cook the tomatoes and

a

garlic.

8

2 garlic cloves,

chopped

12 black olives, pitted and chopped

dried

1

Zi

chili

pepper

cup capers, rinsed Pinch oregano

When cooked, add the black olives, chili pepper, capers, and oregano.

them

in lightly salted

water or fry them lightly until pale golden in olive

Arrange the cooked halves

them with

in the

cup breadcrumbs

brush with

Zi

cup tomato puree

tomato puree.

crumbs

Bake

for

20 minutes, basting with the

broiler

and

if

are browned. Let cool slightly before serving.

MELANZANE SOTT’OLIO Another recipe for eggplant comes from Le Marche, where the eggplants would be sliced into rounds, or

if

smaller, segments. Instead of salting the eggplants

enough

boil in a

cooking

pot,

to cover the sliced eggplant. The eggplant

boiling vinegar along with salt

plant rounds would be

first,

the

perhaps diluted with water just

rounds would then be added to the

and nearly cooked through. While

removed from the vinegar and dried on

still

firm, the egg-

a cloth for

about thirty

minutes. Once dry, the eggplant would be placed into glass jars along with chopped parsley and topped with olive After steeping for about

702

oil,

necessary.

broil for 5 minutes, or until the bread-

LOCAL TRADITION

vinegar would be brought to a

fill

and cover each with a tablespoon of

olive oil,

cooking liquid halfway through that time

Heat the

oil.

prepared pan, then

the pulp mixture; sprinkle with breadcrumbs,

Zi

Salt

Meanwhile, cook the scooped-out egg-

plant halves in one of two ways: boil

a bay leaf, a garlic clove,

and

a single

anchovy

two weeks, the pickled eggplant would be ready

to eat.

fillet.

*

-

LOCAL TRADITION

MISTICANZA Misticanza oil,

a dialect

is

term from

meaning mixed greens dressed

Lazio simply

vinegar, salt, and pepper. The basic ingredient

time fields

in

is

in olive

wild greens gathered from spring-

the Lazio: field chicory, crespigno (or crespino or lattuga pungente),

caccia-lepre, cresta di gallo, dente di leone (or pisciacane or tarassico), pimpinella,

raponzoli (or rapenzoli), erba noce (or erba San Pietro costmary), cipiccia :

(

lattu

ghetto or radicchiello), valeriannella ( dolcetta), papala (poppy plant), cordone del orecchio d’asino, and so on.

frate,

semble the ingredients from any often find misticanza at fruit ticularly in

Rome. When sold

It

field

possible, with a

is still

outside

Rome

and vegetable stands. in

or It

in

the

little

experience, to as-

one can also

Colli Cimini;

appears on menus

all

over, par-

stores, fresh garden greens are used, with cultivated

righetta (arugula) as the base of the salad along with riccioletta, scaroia, punarelle di catalogna, indivia, radicchi, chicory

da

taglio (or cicorne), the

barba

di frate, fava

buds, and so on.

j

morzi

PUGLIA

I

PEAS WITH SAUTEED BREAD To the peasants of the Salento area morzi “bites”)

1

1

lb.

medium 2

dried peas

onion, sliced

plum tomatoes, chopped

peeled, seeded, and 1

bunch

flat-leaf parsley,

chopped

Extra-virgin olive

6 oz. stale bread, cut

in

oil

cubes Salt

were pieces

(Italian:

of stale bread fried in olive

oil

bined with leftover vegetables (boiled or stewed).

was

stirred together over heat with a

Sometimes more digestible. per.

a

good dose of

is

and put them

in

Drain them

an earthenware pan, cover with water,

and cook over medium

heat.

After 15 minutes, drain

the peas, discarding the water, then return

pan and add enough warm water the onion, tomatoes, parsley,

them

and

Heat

V

salt.

inch of olive

saute the bread cubes until golden.

Let

this

to the

Add

to cover them.

Cook

adding water from time to time as needed,

stirring to blend.

this

pep-

typical of Martano.

in cold water for 12 hours.

beans are tender.

All

chili

bay leaf was added to render the blend

This preparation

Soak the peas

heat,

morsi,

and com-

oil in a

at

low

until the

pan and

Add them to the peas,

cook together a few moments,

then serve hot.

703

FRIED BROCCOLI RABE

MUGNOLI SOFFRITTI

CAMPANIA

This dish

Cook A

3 1

%

lbs.

broccoli rabe

cup extra-virgin

until

very bright green; drain and dry well.

olive oil in a

Z2 Pinch

chili

pepper.

garlic clove

Heat the pan and cook the pork belly, garlic, and chili

Remove and

when

discard the garlic

ens and add the broccoli rabe.

pepper flakes

Cook

it

dark-

this for 5

min-

then add the bread cubes and cook

utes, lb.

typical of Marcianise.

olive oil

3 oz. pork belly (or bacon), diced

1

is

the broccoli rabe in lightly salted boiling water

at

high heat

stale peasant-style bread, in

until the liquid

small cubes

absorbed.

is

Salt

LOCAL TRADITION

MOSTARDA MANTOVANA Difficult to find

commercially, mostarda mantovana, or Mantuan mostarda,

correct cooked-fruit sauce for

most other

varieties by being

filling tortelli di

composed

To prepare true mostarda mantovana,

stand covered with sugar briefly boiled

amount

of

and then

in

is

entirely of apples first peel, core,

and by

and

its

is

oil in

added to the

fried apples

from

cooking method.

slice the

a cast-iron skillet while

the only

differs

apples and

a container for 48 hours. The resulting mixture

fried in olive

mustard syrup

zucca (see page 417) and

still

is

let

then

warm. A small

and the mixture transferred

into sterilized glass jars, sealed,

and processed through a pressure canner. Besides

being used to

mostarda mantovana

ment

fill

tortelli di zucca,

is

also a

common accompani-

to boiled or roasted meats.

PARMIGIAN A DI

MELANZANE

1

CAMPANIA

EGGPLANT PARMIGIANA This

is

8

them out

in

oil

from the eggplant

a colander for

1

so diminishes the amount of fat

Italy.

slices after frying

hour. Alternatively, you could

use the mixed procedure: half fried in

the traditional Neapolitan flavor.

704

FOR PERSONS

the version of this dish most famous outside of

To remove the excess set

1

in oil, half

roasted. Doing

the dish while maintaining

2 lbs. eggplant (about 4 Zi

1

medium 2 lbs.

Trim the ends of the eggplants, peel them, and

medium)

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

Salt

onion, sliced

bunch

aside for half an

and pat

slice

hour

them.

to lose

Preheat the oven to

dry.

oil. Add Add the tomato puree, salt, and a few basil leaves, then cook down at very

and cook

the onion

basil

or mozzarella, cubed

A cup

them

400°F. In a saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons olive

5 oz. fior di latte*cheese

2

set

their bitter taste; rinse

tomato puree 1

them and

grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

until translucent.

low heat

until thickened.

ing olive

oil in

Salt

and drain

at a time,

Meanwhile, heat the remain-

another pan, cook the eggplant

sauce into a baking dish and cover fried eggplant slices along with leaves,

it

make another

layer of eggplant, fior di latte,

tomato sauce and Parmigiano-Reggiano. crisp.

is

Serve

at

latte , basil

Cover with more

and Parmigiano-Reggiano, ending with

surface

few

with a layer of the

cubes of fior di

and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

sauce and basil,

slices a

Pour some of the tomato

well.

room

a layer of

Bake

until the

temperature.

LOCAL TRADITION

’NDUGGH1A This recipe from Calabria villari

(’ndugghia

sausage)

is

is

boiled

is

DI C A S T R

a rustic single-dish meal

in

OV

I

is

skimmed

I

off of

di Castro-

to a similar spicy

a pot of lightly salted water. After boiling, the

cut into pieces, and set aside; any fat

A R

which the 'ndugghia

from the French andouille and here refers

in

L L

sausage

is

pork

removed,

the surface and mixed with

greens (commonly chicory, wild fennel, and cardoons) and fresh beans are cooked in

the

same

water. The sausages are then nestled into the hot, cooked vegetables and

served together.

PARMIGIANA DI

MELANZANE

2

PUGLIA

EGGPLANT PARMIGIANA Zucchini can be used to follow

in

2

place of the eggplant. The procedure

remains the same, but the zucchini should be sliced

lengthwise. Mortadella can be used

arranged

in slices

to

make

in

place of the sausage,

a single layer.

705

— 1

lb.

eggplant (about 2 medium) Extra-virgin olive

Preheat the xwen to 350°F. Peel the eggplants, cut them lengthwise in thin

oil

All-purpose flour for dredging

utes.

2 large eggs, beaten 1

3

A cup

Zi

in a high-sided pan.

cups tomato puree

%

cup cubed mozzarella

'A

cup crumbled cooked sausage meat

then

slices,

salt

Rinse and pat them dry.

Dip

and drain

Heat

A

X

Add

Cover the botlayer of

tomato

little

sausage meat, and more tomato

grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano, then

puree.

oil

and

with a layer of fried eggplant.

this

mozzarella, a

20 min-

the eggplant slices in flour

egg and fry until golden on both sides. tom of an ovenproof pan with a thin

puree and cover

for

inch of olive

make

Salt

another layer of eggplant, continuing the layers until the ingredients are used up, ending with a layer of tomato

puree and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Bake until the top

is

golden brown, about 20 minutes.

LOCAL TRADITION

OVOLI From Calabria comes First the

this

mushrooms

IN

mushroom

FRICASSEA

fricassee cooked with garlic, parsley, and eggs.

—

traditionally "Caesar’s

would be cleaned and cut

mushrooms” Amanita caesarea) (

into pieces. Cloves of garlic

would be

lightly

sauteed

until

mushrooms would be added, followed by salt, pepper, and parsley. Once the mushrooms were cooked, three beaten eggs would be added to the dish and lightly cooked just until set. The warm mushrooms and eggs

they just begin to brown

in olive oil,

then the

would be spritzed with fresh lemon juice and could be served hot or

PARMIGIAN A Dl

MELANZANE

3

SICILIA

EGGPLANT PARMIGIANA

lbs.)

Extra-virgin olive 1

oil

garlic clove

plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 8 ripe

CONTINUED

3

Clean the eggplants without peeling them, cut them thin slices,

4 eggplants (about 2

cold.

and sprinkle them with

minutes to make them lose their

Heat 2 tablespoons

When

pan and add the

olive oil in a

in

30

Preheat

bitter liquid.

the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking dish with olive

oil.

garlic.

golden, add the tomatoes and cook until reduced

to a thick sauce. Stir in the sugar.

eggplants and dry them. Heat

706

salt for at least

1

Rinse the

salt off the

inch of olive

oil in a

1

sugar

tsp.

4 large hard-boiled eggs, sectioned 6 oz.

tuma

sofbtangy cheese),

(a

cut

cubes

bunch

1

1

in

basil

cup grated cacidcavallo Salt

and pepper

high-sided pan and fry the eggplant slices until they are

golden and

the bottom of the baking dish; over this arrange a layer

of eggplant, eggs, tuma, basil leaves, caciocavallo, and

more

Continue with these layers to end with a

sauce.

layer of eggplant, using the last of the caciocavallo to

Bake

cover the top.

I

VALLE D'AOSTA

is

%cup 1

%

lbs.

minced onion

green beans or fresh peas pancetta (about 5

slice

1

tbsp. 1

lbs.

to be ready at

Sundays, put on cast-iron pan

in its

noon when the head of the household returns

from High Mass. One variation includes the use

mato sauce, only enough In

of a

little to-

to color the dish (blended into the

Vartney the dish

is

made without

potatoes.

oz.)

potatoes,

chopped

basil

thyme leaves

tbsp.

tbsp. savory

1

1

summer

the morning and slowly cooked

in

Serve with slices of cotechino or Valdostan sausage, cooked

%

peeled and thinly sliced 1

PIE

a classic single-dish meal for

cooking water). 1

for about 10 minutes. Serve at

or even cold.

VEGETABLE This

the stove 4tbsp. unsalted butter

to

a few tablespoons of tomato sauce across

room temperature

PASTICCIO D VERDURE

them out on paper towels

Set

crisp.

Spoon

drain.

celery stalk,

chopped Salt

separately.

Heat the butter

in a

saucepan or cast-iron

saute the onion until translucent. (or peas), pancetta,

herbs,

and

cook slowly for

1

and potatoes.

Add

celery.

just

and

skillet

Add the green beans + Add a little salt, the

enough water

to cover

and

or 2 hours, by which time the water

should have cooked away.

PATATE AL TARTUFO

PIEMONTE

TRUFFLED POTATOES This dish

is

typical of Alba.

Boil the potatoes in lightly salted water until al dente; lb.

1

potatoes

2 tbsp. unsalted butter 1

1

white truffle

heaping tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Juice from Salt

1

lemon

and pepper

drain.

When cool enough to handle, peel and slice them. in a pan until hot. Add the potatoes and

Heat the butter

them

saute them, stirring

them.

When

over them, then add

Reggiano.

and serve

Finish at

delicately so as not to break

they are well browned, shave the truffle salt

and pepper and Parmigiano-

them with

a squeeze of

lemon

juice

room temperature.

707

#

0 V

PATATE CON

POTATO AND TRUFFLE GRATIN

TARTUFI

1

MARCHE

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking dish with

Unsalted butter

Arrange some of these across the bottom of the baking

butter. Peel the potatoes

2 1

potatoes

lbs.

Pour a

dish.

recipe bechamel sauce

in thin rounds.

layer of bechamel sauce over the potatoes,

Repeat

shavings. cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Shaved

them

slice

dust with Parmigiano-Reggiano, and follow with truffle

(see page 339) Zi

and

with a layer of

this

operation layer by layer, ending

truffles.

Bake

until the potatoes are

truffle

cooked, about 40 minutes.

PATATE

POTATO AND BEAN STEW

E FAGIOLI

BASILICATA

Put the beans,

ware 1

dried beans,

lb.

Add

pot.

When

celery, garlic, salt,

and

lard in an earthen-

water to cover and simmer

at

low heat.

the beans are almost tender, about an hour

and

a

soaked overnight and drained half, 1

add the potatoes and simmer

until the potatoes are

celery stalk, chopped

cooked through, another 20 minutes. 1

garlic clove 1

1

tbsp. lard

Vi lbs.

potatoes,

peeled and coarsely chopped Salt

PATATE E PERE LESSE ALLA VALDOSTANA

VALLE D'AOSTA

1

POTATOES AND PEARS This dish

is

typical of the valley of

may use another type

%

lb.

peeled and chopped 2

potatoes, in

pieces

pancetta

oz. 1

bay leaf

3 medium-firm pears (preferably St.

Martin), halved

and seeded

1

medium

Boil the potatoes in water with the pancetta until

cooked through; drain well and

is fra-

and bay

set aside.

leaf

Cook

the pears in lightly salted boiling water just until tender,

about

1

0 minutes, and drain well.

add the onion and cook

Heat the butter until golden.

in a

Pour the

onions over the cooked potatoes, then add the pears and onion, finely sliced

toss gently to mix. Salt

708

one that

grant and has a red skin.

large pan; 4 tbsp. unsalted butter

Gran San Bernardo. You

of pear, but preferably

PATATE

PADELLA

IN

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

PAN-FRIED POTATOES This dish

is

typical of Trieste,

where

it

is

called patate in tecia.

Boil the potatoes until tender, peel them, 2

lbs.

potatoes

Heat the lard

aside.

4tbsp. lard

medium 4

onion, thinly sliced oz.

pancetta, diced

pancetta has taken a

little

Add

color.

set

them

and when

add the onion and pancetta. Cook

liquefies, 1

and

in a cast-iron skillet

it

until the

the potatoes,

crushing them with a fork and working them to blend

When

with the other ingredients.

browned on one

side, turn

the potatoes have

them over

to

brown on

the

other. Serve hot.

PATATE SCHIACCIATE

CALABRIA

CRUSHED POTATOES Boil the potatoes in lighdy salted water until tender.

Drain them and when cool enough 1

lb.

potatoes

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

1

dried

oil

garlic clove chili

pepper Salt

PEPERONI ALLA CALABRESE

CALABRIA

and crush them.

Heat the

the potatoes in a

pan with the

Add the medium

8 peppers

1

Zi

oil

cups chopped plum tomatoes Salt

and pepper

them

pan and cook

garlic for 10 minutes.

chili

pepper and cook 5 minutes longer over

heat.

Remove

the garlic and chili pepper and

serve hot.

CALABRIAN PEPPERS Roast the peppers over a gas burner black. Place in a plastic bag, seal,

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

to handle, peel

olive oil in a

and

until let

completely

steam for 15

minutes. Skin them, remove their seeds, and cut them in strips. toes.

Heat the

Cook

at

olive oil in a

pan and add the toma-

moderate heat for about 15 minutes,

then add the peppers and

salt

and pepper.

Stir,

then

serve immediately.

709

r

#

peperoni imbottiti

SPICY STUFFED PEPPERS

i

MOLISE

Preheat the oven to 350°F. as in the recipe

4 meaty peppers

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

Zi

oil in

1

fresh

the

off an inch

from the

olive

wooden spoon.

In a bowl, chili

mix the bread-

pepper, and a

little

Stuff this mixture into the peppers, drizzle with

salt.

and arrange them

olive oil,

pepper,

mem-

Heat the

filling.

pan and toast the breadcrumbs until just browned,

crumbs, anchovies, parsley, basil,

basil leaves chili

a

stirring with a

and chopped

2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley

chopped

Make

branes, and dry them.

7 fillets salt-cured anchovies,

2 tbsp.

Trim

stem end, scrape out the seeds and any internal

oil

cups breadcrumbs

rinsed, boned,

Roast and peel the peppers

on page 712.

in a terra-cotta pan.

Pour

the tomato puree over them, adjusting for salt and add-

seeded and diced

% cup tomato puree

ing a

little

from time

Salt

water.

Bake for

1

hour, basting the peppers

to time with the cooking liquid. Serve hot.

LOCAL TRADITION

PATATE LESSE SFRITTE This simple recipe for fried boiled potatoes first

comes from

Basilicata.

The potatoes would

be boiled, drained, and roughly crushed with a fork, then added to hot

skillet that

had been flavored with a dried spicy

chili

oil in

a

pepper. While the potatoes fried,

they would be crushed further, almost to a coarse puree, to absorb the seasonings. Additional

chili

pepper,

salt,

and parsley would be added toward the end of cooking

for a brighter flavor.

!

PEPERONI IMBOTTITI

2

CAMPANIA

I

PEPPERS STUFFED WITH EGGPLANT Preheat the oven to 400°F. Roast the peppers and skin

them 4 yellow or red peppers J4

2

cup extra-virgin

medium

olive oil

eggplants, diced 1

garlic clove

CONTINUED

710

as in the recipe

half and scrape in a saute

on page 712. Cut the peppers

away the

seeds.

Heat half of the

pan and add the eggplant. Cook

then remove from the pan and set aside.

maining

olive oil to the

in

olive oil

until golden,

Add

the re-

pan and cook the

garlic (later

Add

the oregano

discarded), tomato puree, and

salt.

and

2 cups tomato puree 1

tbsp.

tbsp.phopped

1

and

basil

K3cup capers, rinsed Zi

cup

pitted Gaeta olives,

the eggplant, stirring for a few minutes.

and

the capers

stir in just

Remove from

olives.

enough breadcrumbs

arrange them in a baking pan.

2 or 3 tbsp. breadcrumbs

olive oil

Salt

to

the heat

bind the ingredi-

Stuff the roasted peppers with this mixture, then

ents.

chopped

Add

basil.

Add

chopped oregano

and season with

utes, or until the filling

is

Brush the

with

filling

salt.

Bake

lightly

browned. Serve

30 min-

for about

at

room

temperature.

PEPERONI M BOTTITI ALLA CAPRESE

I

STUFFED PEPPERS

I

CAMPANIA

I

CAPRI-STYLE Preheat the oven to 450°F. Roast the peppers until the skin has bubbled.

4 large peppers

%

lb.

bucatini pasta

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil,

more as needed

plus

let

Then

the peppers steam

1

and scrape out the

tops,

Zi

Zi

Zi

olives,

chopped

cup capers, rinsed

4 salt-cured anchovies,

rinsed and chopped

A cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Zi

cup breadcrumbs (optional) Salt

bag and

in a plastic

Reduce the oven tem-

the bucatini in lightly salted

al

dente.

add the

garlic,

Meanwhile, heat the

garlic clove

cups tomato puree

cup pitted black

them

seeds.

Cook

perature to 350°F.

boiling water until very 1

1

place

5 minutes. Peel them, slice off the

and pepper

olive oil in a pan,

brown. Remove the

light

Cook

to the pan.

add the

garlic

this at

and cook

until

low heat for 10 minutes, then

olives, capers, anchovies,

and

a

little

the bucatini and dress with the tomato sauce.

and

salt

After a few minutes, add the parsley.

pepper.

turns

it

and add the tomato puree

Drain Stuff the

peppers with the bucatini mixture and arrange them a baking pan. Drizzle with olive salt,

and top with breadcrumbs

oil,

(if

season with a

desired).

in

little

Bake

for

30 minutes.

PEPERONI

IN

AGRODOLCE SICILIA

SWEET-AND-SOUR STUFFED PEPPERS Choose

firm, fleshy

peppers for

this recipe.

Cherry peppers

can be used, but you may have to use more peppers to ac-

10

8 round pickled peppers

commodate

02 crustless stale bread,

Trim

.

crumbled 1

cup extra-virgin 2 garlic cloves,

'A

cup chopped

flat-leaf

Mix

olive oil

capers,

chopped parsley

cup golden raisins

CONTINUED

of the stuffing.

the bread,

and

olives.

Vi

and cook

When

at

cup

Use

Heat the remaining pers,

Zi

all

off the tops of the peppers olive

this

and remove the

oil, garlic,

mixture to stuff the peppers.

olive oil in a large pan,

medium

seeds.

parsley, raisins,

heat, closely

add the pep-

watching them.

the undersides of the peppers have

browned

thoroughly (about 10 minutes), very carefully turn them

711

/3

cup capers, rinsed

A cup

pitted Gaeta olives

3

2 tbsp. vino cotto or

saba (wine

upside

down

to

cook the top

Turn them back another

over,

until the stuffing

add the vino

cotto ,

is

and

golden.

cook

let

0 minutes.

1

“cooked” down to a sweet syrup)

PEPERONI RIPIENI

1

PIEMONTE

STUFFED PEPPERS WITH TUNA This dish

To 2 peppers, roasted and peeled

(see recipe)

is

3

oz.

oz. ricotta,

mozzarella, cubed cut

in

small pieces

Kztbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 2 oz. canned tuna,

drained and crumbled 1

Vi salt-cured

rinsed, boned,

anchovies,

and chopped

2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 sage leaves, chopped 3 tbsp. tomato puree,

sweetened with /2 tsp. sugar

You may cook them

either directly

over the flame of a gas stovetop burner, or, ciently, in

4

typical of Asti.

roast peppers:

less effi-

an oven preheated to 450°F. Use tongs to turn

the peppers occasionally and cook until the skin pletely blistered

and blackened. Place

is

in a plastic

com-

bag or

small container and seal. Let the peppers steam this for

1

5 minutes. Gently

the charred

Lower well.

in half

if

you

and remove the

the oven to 400°F.

all

skin, leaving

membrane underneath

Cut the peppers bining

rub off the

Make

like,

the stuffing by oil)

Stuff the pepper halves and arrange

Add

the olive

oil

for flavor.

seeds. Set aside.

the ingredients (except the olive

baking pan.

way

some of

com-

and blend

them

and % inch of water

in a

to the

Mitsp. red wine vinegar

pan. Cover with 2 basil leaves,

foil

and bake 20 minutes. Remove the

chopped foil

and bake

until the stuffing

is

cooked through and

Pinch oregano or thyme

golden, about 10 minutes more. Serve hot or at 1

large egg plus

1

room

yolk

temperature. A few tbsp. breadcrumbs (to

bind the

filling)

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

Salt

PEPERONI RIPIENI

2

PUGLIA

STUFFED PEPPERS Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a baking pan with olive

Extra-virgin olive

oil

4 large peppers (preferably yellow) 1

!4

cups breadcrumbs

2 tbsp. grated pecorino

(preferably from Puglia) 1

tbsp.

chopped

oil.

Cut

the tops off the peppers (setting aside the

tops with their stems to serve as seeds; rinse

and dry them and

Heat 2 tablespoons crumbs, and toast

lids)

and remove the

upside

olive oil in a pan,

until golden.

Mix

down

to drain.

add the bread-

the breadcrumbs,

pecorino, anchovies, parsley, olives, and capers; mix in flat-leaf

parsley

CONTINUED

just

enough

olive oil to bind.

peppers and close them with

712

set

Stuff this mixture into the their stem-lids.

Arrange

them

4 anchovies, rinsed,

boned, and chopped Zz

cup pitted black 'A

ofives,

baking pan. Drizzle them with more olive

in the

and bake them

chopped

for about

oil

25 minutes. These can be eaten

hot or cold.

cup capers, rinsed, and chopped

dried,

I

PEPERONI RIPIENI

3

SICILIA

I

STUFFED PEPPERS WITH CACIOCAVALLO Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking pan with olive

Extra-virgin olive

oil

4 large peppers 1

Zz

cups breadcrumbs

A Vz

cup chopped

basil

cup grated caciocavallo

chopped

4 salt-cured anchovies, rinsed, boned,

and chopped

Salt

and pepper

away

them

set

dry pan until golden brown. In a bowl, mix

in a

them with

salt,

Briefly toast the bread-

aside.

pepper,

basil, caciocavallo, capers,

Add

and anchovies.

pan and

in the baking

drizzle with

with a sheet of aluminum

remove the aluminum

foil.

White wine vinegar

oil.

oil if

to

Cover the pan

for 15 minutes, then for 10

necessary. Serve at

or cold.

PICKLED PEPPERS Cherry peppers are a variety of small, sweet peppers with a

meaty Cherry peppers

Bake

oil

Put them

and continue cooking

foil

toma-

a few tablespoons olive

bind, then stuff the mixture into the peppers.

room temperature

CAMPANIA

and inner

crumbs

minutes, adding more olive

PEPERONI SOTT’ACETO

the seeds

the peppers, being careful not to break

them, then

toes, peeled, seeded, and

off the tops of the peppers. With the tip of

membranes of

2tbsp. capers, rinsed 4 ripe plum tomatoes,

Cut

oil.

a small, sharp knife scrape

flesh that are

grown

in

the area of Avellino. They are

almost always red and are roundish ference of 4 to are called

in

are easy to

4’/2

inches.

in

shape with

When preserved

in

a circum-

vinegar they

the Avellino dialect papaccelle or pepaine. They

make

at

home. Cut

in strips,

they

make

a side

dish to roast pork, cooked sausages, and cod and are also

an ingredient

You

will

in

many traditional

dishes.

need a large-mouthed container made of enam-

eled terra-cotta.

Buy enough peppers

to

fill

the container,

choosing those that are firm and free of scratches.

them

in cold

fore putting the peppers in the container,

ing water and

water out. on)

.

Rinse

water and carefully dry with a cloth.

let it rest

Then add

fill it

Be-

with boil-

several minutes before pouring the

the peppers (with their stems

still

Meanwhile, bring equal parts of water and vinegar

713

# to a boil

making

and pour

certain

it

r

this, still boiling,

covers

over the peppers,

of them.

all

(If

more

liquid

is

needed during the process of pickling the peppers, add

more pure vinegar.) refrigerate at least

Cover the container with

its lid

and

20 days before eating the peppers.

SPICED CABBAGE

WITH EGG

PIPETTO

LOMBARDIA

This side dish

is

around Crema, most often

typical of the area

served with dishes using goose. 1

head Savoy cabbage,

Rinse the cabbage and cook it in

lightly salted water,

about

outer leaves removed

Drain and chop.

5 minutes.

% cup

over low heat and add the 1

garlic clove,

pan

in a

cabbage, cloves, and cin-

garlic,

crushed

Cook for 30

namon. Season with

salt.

cabbage

A few minutes before the end of that

Pinch ground cloves is

tender.

Pinch ground cinnamon

time, 1

Melt the butter

unsalted butter

(4 tbsp.)

add the egg and

minutes, until the

tablespoon Parmigiano-Reggiano.

1

large egg, beaten

Cook until the egg is set but still soft. Serve hot, sprinkling with more Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

PIZZA D CARCIOFI 1

!

ARTICHOKE PIZZA

CAMPANIA

A modern variation of this blends the cooked artichokes with

For the dough:

to which the other ingredients (except the bread) are added.

a

About 3/3 cups all-purpose plus Zi

flour,

more as needed

cup extra-virgin 1

olive

oil

large egg yolk,

beaten with

Vz tsp.

bechamel sauce (see page 339) made using Yh cups milk

The mixture

and cook

12 medium-size artichokes

Juice of

1

lemon

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

1

oil

garlic clove

or 2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 large eggs, beaten 2 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

CONTINUED

be more flavorful

forms, adding a

water

filling:

will

yourself

in

a

little

if

you use prosciutto crudo

little lightly

Stir together the flour

rest,

For the

it

and

water

salted water.

oil until if

covered with a cloth, 30 minutes.

chokes, cut them in eighths, and soak utes in water acidulated with their color.

smooth dough

lemon

dough

Clean the

them

for

arti-

20 min-

juice to maintain

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a round

baking pan with olive a pan,

a

necessary. Let the

cook the

oil.

Heat the remaining

garlic clove until golden,

olive oil in

then add the

artichoke sections direcdy from the water (do not drain

them too much) Cover .

at

as

low heat, adding

needed

salt

the

and

pan and cook the artichokes 1

tablespoon of warm water

to maintain the level of liquid.

When

the

artichokes are almost cooked (about 20 minutes), take

714

Bread of

stale

1

(about /a

Va

and add the pars-

Turn up

and

stir

the mixture to evaporate the moisture.

a

the heat

Push the

and arti-

cup milk

chokes to one side of the pan, then turn off the heat and tilt

oz.

garlic,

good pinch of pepper.

ley

cup)

Pinch grated nutmeg 4

remove the

the lid off the pan,

roll,

without the crust, finely crumbled

the pan, resting

it

on

a support, to

make

the

oil

drain

prosciutto cottcx diced Salt

from the artichokes. Carefully discard the

and pepper

pan

flat

again.

Stir in the eggs,

oil

and

lay the

Parmigiano-Reggiano,

bread, milk, and nutmeg. (The bread serves to keep the

eggs from draining to the bottom of the pan.)

add the prosciutto

one larger than the other, and

parts,

board to form two line the

Last,

Divide the dough in two

cotto.

% -inch-thick

roll

out on a floured

sheets: the large

baking pan, the smaller one to cover

it.

eventual pizza should be about 2 inches thick.

dough

one to

The Line

Spoon

the baking

pan with the

larger

the

spreading

out evenly, then cover with the

filling,

it

sheet.

in

smaller sheet. Seal the edges of the two sheets, pressing

down

with the tines of a fork for a decorative edge.

Brush the surface with the yolk mixture and make a hole about

1

inch across at the center of the pizza to allow

steam to escape during the baking.

Bake

for about

40 minutes.

POLPETTE

MELANZANE

Dl 1

LOMBARDIA

|

EGGPLANT BALLS Select fine, firm medium-size eggplants for this recipe. These

are excellent served at room temperature, and can also be 4 eggplants (about 4

lbs.)

4tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

cup breadcrumbs

1

1

large egg, beaten

Pinch grated nutmeg Extra-virgin olive

oil,

for frying Salt

served cold.

them lengthwise

into four

in lightly salted boiling

water for

Peel the eggplants and cut

wedges.

Cook them

no more than 5 minutes, being

Drain thoroughly, patting dry to eliminate every

them. bit 1

careful not to overcook

of water.

In a bowl,

mash

the eggplant with cheese,

tablespoon breadcrumbs, egg, and nutmeg.

mixture into

balls,

nut),

and dredge them

Heat

x

/i

Form this

not too large (about the size of a wal-

inch of olive

in the

oil in

remaining breadcrumbs.

a large pan.

Fry

just until light

golden (do not overcook) and drain on paper towels.

715

1

#

POLPETTE

D

MELANZANE

2

CALABRIA

EGGPLANT BITES These can be served either hot or cold or covered with a

mato sauce as a side

%

eggplant (about

lb.

cup breadcrumbs

1

tbsp. 1

chopped

flat-leaf

chopped

tbsp.

medium)

garlic clove,

1

1

1

minced parsley

basil leaves

cup grated pecorino

/3

1

large egg, beaten

Extra-virgin olive

oil,

for frying Salt

POLPETTINE

D

BROCCOLO

1

SICILIA

Vi

small head cauliflower

cup grated caciocavallo

Bread of

1

roll,

soaked

in milk,

then squeezed dry 2 large eggs

Pinch grated nutmeg 1

cup breadcrumbs Olive

oil,

Salt

for frying

and pepper

Bring the water to a boil and cook for about

with water.

until very soft,

large bowl,

combine the breadcrumbs,

basil, cheese,

and

and work them well to

make

a

pan and

Dry

salt.

In a

let cool.

garlic, parsley,

off the eggplant sections

into the mixture with the egg, kneading

homogeneous mixture.

ture into 2 -inch

Heat about

flat logs.

fry until golden. Drain

Shape

Vi

this

mix-

inch of olive in a

on paper

towels.

CAULIFLOWER BALLS broccolo means “cauliflower.”

In Sicilia

the outer leaves off the cauliflower, then put

pot of cold, water to a

lightly salted

Cook

boil.

it

in a

water to cover and bring the

about 20 minutes.

until tender,

As soon

as

pieces.

Put the pieces of cauliflower in a bowl and add

it is

cooked, drain

the caciocavallo, bread,

Work

per.

and chop

it

egg, nutmeg,

1

and

it

a

in small

little

pep-

the ingredients well to blend them, then

shape into 1-inch

Heat 2 inches of olive

balls.

Season the remaining egg with a

hot.

until golden.

CAMPANIA

then drain and

45 minutes,

the balls in the egg,

POMODORI ARREG AN ATI

to-

dish.

Peel the eggplant, slice in half, put in a pot, and cover

Trim 1

#-

roll

them

in

little salt,

oil until

then dip

breadcrumbs, and fry

Drain on paper towels and serve

hot.

OREGANO TOMATOES This dish

is

typical of Naples.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Wash the tomatoes, dry them, 1

%

lbs. large,

round plum tomatoes

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

1

1

1

cup breadcrumbs

garlic clove,

tbsp.

minced

chopped oregano

(or flat-leaf parsley)

716

cut

them

for

30 minutes.

oil,

or as needed

Mix

1

in half,

remove the Salt the

seeds,

and

let

tomato halves and

tablespoon of the olive

oil

(or

more

them drain set aside. if

needed)

with the breadcrumbs, garlic, oregano (or parsley), and capers,

if

Spread a

desired

(if

of

this

little

not using the capers add

salt).

mixture on each tomato half and

% cup capers

arrange them in a baking pan. Drizzle them with the

(optional), rinsed

remaining olive

Salt

and bake

oil

breadcrumbs are

until the

brown, about 20 minutes.

POMODORI

RIPIENI

1

CALABRIA

STUFFED TOMATOES Preheat the oven to 400°F. Slice the tomatoes in

remove the 8 large

cup breadcrumbs

1

cup grated pecorino

1

tsp.

1

tomatoes

chopped oregano

4tbsp. extra-virgin olive Salt

combine the breadcrumbs, cheese,

oregano,

basil, salt,

and pepper; work these ingredients

oil until

1

PROSCIUTTO CRUDO DELLA NONNA

1

tablespoon water and 3 tablespoons olive

blended

Fill

the tomato halves with this mix-

then arrange them in a baking pan.

with the remaining olive

and pepper

E FAGIOLINI

to

In a bowl,

ture,

oil

half,

them out upside down

set

drain.

together with

4 or 5 basil leaves, minced

and

seeds,

oil

and bake

Drizzle

until golden,

them about

5 minutes.

GRANDMA’S PROSCIUTTO 1

VALLE D'AOSTA

AND BEANS This recipe

was

a family tradition in the area

known as the

“Grand Saint Bernard” where Napoleon Bonaparte spent 1

(if

possible from Bosses) Zi

Z* lb. 1

three days during his crossing of the Alps.

prosciutto crudo

Using a flame, burn away any

cup white wine

to

large onion, finely sliced

2 lbs. green beans (best just gathered

in

2 cups

Clean

crudo.

O/2 cup) unsalted butter

cook

meat broth

add

Salt

at

it

low heat for

Add 1

a

hour.

in water to cover,

Heat the butter

and add the onion. Cook

add the green beans.

the garden)

on the prosciutto

bristles

and cook it for 2 hours

which the wine has been added.

cast-iron pot

if

it

little salt

until golden,

in a

then

and the broth and

Drain the prosciutto and

Continue cooking another 10 min-

to the beans.

utes so the remaining fat will help to season the beans.

IN

PUNTARELLE SALSA D’ALICI LAZIO

1

PUNTARELLE SALAD WITH ANCHOVY DRESSING Meaning

“little

tips”(and also called catalogna), this

kind of green akin Vi lb.

puntarelle (see note) 1

7

garlic clove

anchovy

fillets,

boned and chopped

CONTINUED

in

ingly bitter flavor; the

harvested

in

Clean the

is

a

tender shoots up to the head are used,

the period before flowering, to

tasty salad. This

is

taste to celery and chicory, with a pleas-

typical of

Rome and

puntarelle, cutting

make

a very

Lazio.

away the

stringy parts

and

working from the bottom up, then cut lengthwise to

717

4 tbsp. white wine vinegar,

depending on the thickness 6f the shoots, two,

create,

or as needed 4tbsp.extra-virgin olive

three, or four parts.

oil,

Long

shoots should be shortened,

but no shorter than 4 Vi to 6 inches.

or as needed

Rinse these and

put them in a bowl of cool water to make them

about 2 hours.

Meanwhile, prepare the dressing

curl, in a

mortar, preferably of wood: grind together the garlic, an-

and

chovies, vinegar,

more ing.

and vinegar

oil

Pour

this

form a

olive oil to

to

over the puntarelle and

a covered container for at least

let

Add

paste.

form a somewhat

liquid dress-

them

steep in

hour. Serve in a bowl

1

with the addition of more of the dressing and mix well.

LOCAL TRADITION

POMODORI SOTT’OLIO These pickled tomatoes are

a Pugliese favorite.

and then set

available are halved, heavily salted,

soaked

lukewarm vinegar

in

The largest and firmest tomatoes in

the sun to dry. Once dry, they are

for about twenty minutes,

and then arranged

or earthenware jars with fresh mint leaves and a garlic clove. The mixture

pressed to eliminate any air pockets and then covered with

olive

oil,

in

glass

is lightly

enabling the

pickled tomatoes to keep for a long time as a favorite condiment to boiled meats, fish,

or simply with bread.

PUREA

D

I

FAVE

PUGLIA

I

FAYA PUREE The secret to making this puree

is

to refrain

from

stirring

the fava beans. This puree can be served with boiled 1

A cups

2

dried fava beans

2 large potatoes, peeled 1

Zi

and cubed

cups extra-virgin

olive

oil,

or as needed

Rinse the fava beans and put them in an earthenware pot with the potatoes; cover with water and bring to a boil over

Salt

utes.

low

heat.

Cover and simmer

for about

20 min-

Drain away the water and cover the favas with

more cold

water, adding

salt.

Bring to a second

then simmer for another 30 minutes.

and potatoes through

718

field

greens.

boil,

Pass the beans

a food mill, then return

them

to

earthenware pan and mash them vigorously with a wooden spoon, adding olive oil a little at a time as needed tiie

to

PUREA

Dl

ZUCCA

1

SARDEGNA

form

smooth puree. Season with

a

SQUASH PUREE This dish, typical of Gavoi,

is

even better

cooked and passed through a food lb.

1

dried beans

2 oz. lardo, 1

lb.

Soak the beans overnight

minced

rinse them,

winter squash,

salt.

peeled and diced

tender.

Add

the squash

if

to cover

them for about

1

Vz

is

before being added.

in water to cover.

and add water

the lardo and boil

mill

Drain them,

by a few inches.

Add

hours, or until nearly

and continue cooking, adding

the squash

Salt

water and

cooked, about 30 minutes.

form

PURGATORIO ALLA CALABRESE

CALABRIA

11

a thick puree.

medium plum tomatoes

2tbsp. shredded basil leaves Yi

cup

2 eggplants, cut

in

olive

oil

sections

and soaked in salted water for about 30 minutes 4 young potatoes,

peeled and cut

in

quarters

4 peppers, coarsely chopped 1

loaf country

is

completely

Mash the beans and squash to

Season with

salt

and

serve.

CALABRIAN "PURGATORY” VEGETABLE SANDWICHES Parboil the tomatoes, peel them,

Put the tomatoes 3

the squash

salt as desired, until

in a

2 tablespoons of olive

oil

and cut them

saucepan with the

and cook

for

1

in pieces. basil

and

5 minutes over

medium heat, adding salt to taste. In another pan, heat the remaining olive oil. Add the remaining vegetables and cook until the potatoes are tomato sauce, and evaporate

stir

some of the

soft.

Transfer them to the

together for a few minutes to

liquid.

Cut

the loaf lengthwise,

scoop out some of the bread, then stuff gatorio\ close

it,

slice

it,

it

with the pur-

and serve immediately.

bread Salt

Dl CAMPO CON LARDO

RADICCHIO

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

WILD GREENS WITH LARDO This delicious spring dish goes very well with hard-boiled eggs. Radicchio di

2 heads radicchio di

campo

(see

note), outer leaves removed and remaining leaves rinsed and dried

CONTINUED

campo is

not red radicchio but a wild green

with small leaves. You could substitute wild arugula.

Tear the greens and place over low heat until the

in a salad bowl.

fat is

Heat the lardo

rendered and the lardo

is

719

V 4

oz. lardo,

2 tbsp. white

lightly

diced

browned.

Add the vinegar, then pour the

mixture

over the greens. Toss until the leaves are wilted.

wine vinegar Salt

CARAMELIZED TURNIPS

RAPE CON LO ZUCCHERO

White turnips can be used

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

ones, 2 oz. lard 1

1

Zi tbsp.

in this

recipe

in

place of the violet

necessary.

Heat the

sugar

lard in a

pan over low heat and add the

sugar.

When the sugar melts, whisk in 2 tablespoons of water.

Zi lbs. violet turnips,

Immediately add the turnips,

peeled and cubed Salt

if

from caramelizing too

stirring to

The

quickly.

keep the sugar turnips should

and pepper

soon turn a brownish

Season with

color.

and pep-

salt

per and cook at low heat until the turnips are tender.

GRILLED RADICCHIO, TREYISO- STYLE

RADICCHIO Al FERRI TREVIGIANO

Radicchio from Treviso has the characteristic red and white

VENETO

color of the ball-shaped radicchio from Chiogga, but Radicchio di Treviso (Vi

head for each person) Extra-virgin olive Salt

oil

head of green Romaine

shaped

like a

Heat a

grill until

hot. Divide the individual

and pepper and arrange on the

letting the heat eliminate all the

When the

!

radicchio

1

1

1

Zl lbs.

dried

turnips,

cup

olive oil

garlic clove chili

pepper

washed but

not dried and cut into quarters Salt

720

is

grill.

olive oil,

Cook rapidly,

water in the radicchio.

marked and

wilted,

it is

ready.

BRAISED TURNIPS These are excellent

In a cast-iron Zi

heads of ra-

Season with

root to hold the leaves together. salt

ABRUZZO

is

dicchio into four parts, leaving about 2 inches of the

and pepper

RAPE STRASCINATE

it

lettuce.

and

chili

pepper;

coat with the

in

skillet,

oil.

the winter after the frosts.

heat the olive

stir,

oil.

Add the garlic, salt,

then add the turnips and

Cook

at

slow heat with the

uncovered, stirring often to cook them evenly.

stir to

skillet

A

LOCAL TRADITION B One

most common

of the

RO VA

D immemorial, this dish

Friulian dishes since time in

unfermented wine pressings for a few months, during

will

ferment and bestow a dark pink color onto the turnips.

First the roots

and leaves of the turnips would be cleaned, then the turnips would

be packed into a container pressings would be

left

in

for a

alternating layers with the pressings. The turnips and

few months

they took on the desired color, then

until

they would be grated and cooked along with onion and garlic

added as desired. The flavors this

was

I

PIEMONTE

I

1

lb.

Zi lbs. broccoli,

cardoons, cut

%

lb.

yellow

in

chopped

small pieces

summer

peeled and cut

squash,

lardo, with

meat broth

Cauliflower can be used is

typical of

in

place of the broccoli

in this dish,

Domodossola.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Boil the broccoli and car-

doons

in water to cover until they are half cooked.

an ovenproof pan, cook the squash

in

In

water to cover

in slices

until fork-tender 2tbsp. extra-virgin olive

but

firm, then transfer the

still

pan

to

oil

Heat half the

the oven. 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

Z2

in

improved the longer the turnips cooked, and

RATATOUILLE PIEMONTE -STYLE which

/

of the dish

a favorite side dish for any kind of meat, especially pork.

RATATUI A

3

calls for

marinating white turnips

which time the pressings

and add the

garlic.

olive oil

When

and the butter

the garlic

is

in a

pan

golden, add the

garlic clove

broccoli

and cardoons and cook

at

high heat, stirring

6 oz. salt-cured anchovies,

rinsed and boned 1

tbsp. cornstarch

constantly.

pan over low

Heat the remaining heat,

olive oil in a

second

add the anchovies, and cook until they

have basically disintegrated.

Stir in the

cornstarch and

cook for a few minutes. At the moment of serving toss together the squash with

its

liquid, the broccoli mixture,

and the anchovy mixture.

721

r

0

ESCAROLE

WITH ME ATB ALLS

SCAROLA CCA TRIMMA

CALABRIA

Use only

the green part of the escarole. Parboil

lightly salted 2 lbs. curly escarole

%

lb.

egg yolk,

2 large eggs 1

tbsp.

chopped

A cup

2

flat-leaf

of olive

Extra-virgin olive

oz.

cooked

escarole in the

ciccioli

ring to blend the

I

LAZIO

!4

Dredge the meatballs

until golden,

same pan

Heat

-inch meatballs.

1

inch

in the

and drain on paper towolive

oil.

Cook the

until the liquid has evaporated.

pecorino until frothy and add

and pepper

SCAROLA RIPIENA

whole egg,

1

Beat the remaining egg white with the remaining

(see note, page 12) Salt

1

a large pan.

Remove and discard most of the

els.

6

Form into

oil in

breadcrumbs, fry

oil

cup breadcrumbs

the pork,

pepper, parsley, and half of the pecorino

salt,

until blended.

parsley

grated pecorino

1

Combine

and roughly chop.

ground pork

in

it

water until tender (about 5 minutes), dry,

|

ciccioli

this to the escarole, stir-

and cook. Serve immediately, topped with

and the meatballs.

STUFFED AND BRAISED ESCAROLE This dish

is

typical of

Itri.

Clean and rinse the escarole without separating the 6 heads curly escarole

leaves Yi 1

cup pine nuts

Mix

from the

heart. Set

rinsed, boned, Zi

and chopped

cup golden raisins 20 pitted olives

4 or 5 garlic cloves, minced Extra-virgin olive

oil

Broth

SCAROLE IMBOTTITE

CAMPANIA

out upside

it

until blended. Delicately

to drain.

and

garlic

spread open each head and

with the mixture. Drizzle the

add

down

the pine nuts, anchovies, raisins, olives,

or 2 salt-cured anchovies,

filling

with olive

oil.

fill

Do not

Tie each head closed with kitchen twine and

salt.

stand them up in a saucepan.

Cover and cook

at

Add

inch of broth.

1

medium-low heat until

the escarole

is

tender, about 20 minutes.

STUFFED AND BAKED ESCAROLE This dish

is

typical of Salerno.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking pan with olive Extra-virgin olive

oil

oil.

7

heads curly escarole

3 garlic cloves, slivered 5 or 6 tbsp.

A cup

2

breadcrumbs

the outer leaves

10 minutes; put them upside

Heat 5 tablespoons of

capers, rinsed

escarole,

CONTINUED

722

Remove

from the

hearts several times, then parboil

1

garlic clove,

are tender, carefully

down in a colander to

olive oil in a

drain.

pan and add the

a pinch of

salt.

When they

them out of

the

pan without

and

lift

escarole, rinse the

them until tender, about

Vz 1

bunch

cup

chopped

the

Salt

and chopped

oil

to

pan along with the remaining garlic and breadcrumbs.

Saute, stirring continuously with a

3 oz. salt-cured anchovies, rinsed, boned,

Add more

breaking them; set them out to drain.

pitted Gaeta olives

flat-leaf parsley,

wooden spoon,

for

2 or 3 minutes; add the capers, olives, parsley, and white

and freshly ground white pepper

pepper.

Stir for a

few minutes, then add the anchovies.

the escarole with this mixture without breaking

Fill

them and arrange them

in the pan,

one beside the next.

Dust them with more breadcrumbs, and bake

olive oil,

for about

drizzle with

20 minutes, or

more

until golden.

LOCAL TRADITION

SALAM AD PATATI From the Canavese area

Piemonte comes this recipe for potato salame, made with

of

potatoes, fresh pancetta, pig’s blood, nutmeg, and cinnamon. The potatoes would be boiled whole and, once cool, peeled and blended with the other ingredients. This mix-

somewhere

ture would then be stuffed into a fresh pig’s intestine and hung

dry for twenty-four hours. The salame a hot oven with a small tata, with the

and finished

amount

salame peeled, in

CAMPANIA

I

sliced,

manner

the regular

SCAROLE STUFATE

of red

was

traditionally

wine

in

cooked

in

cool

and placed

in a

and

one of two ways:

the bottom of a baking pan or as a

in

frit-

pan with butter and beaten eggs

of cooking a frittata.

BAKED ESCAROLE This dish

is

typical of Salerno.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Parboil the escarole for about 1

Zi lbs.

escarole, 1

0 minutes and drain in a colander.

outer leaves removed

2 tablespoons of the olive Vz

cup extra-virgin

oil in

a large

When

dry, heat

pan and add the

olive oil

escarole,

1

garlic clove,

and a

little salt.

When the

esca-

3 garlic cloves

5tbsp. breadcrumbs Zz

% 1

bunch

cup capers, rinsed

cup pitted Gaeta

flat-leaf parsley, 1

oz.

chopped

and chopped

Salt

is

wilted,

remove from the heat and let drain.

ovenproof pan, heat the remaining garlic,

and the breadcrumbs,

spoon.

Cook

olive oil,

In an

remaining

stirring with a

wooden

olives

salt-cured anchovies,

rinsed, boned,

role

and pepper

for 2 or 3 minutes, then

olives, parsley, role, stir to

for

pepper, and anchovies.

add the capers,

Add

the esca-

blend well, then transfer to the oven and bake

20 minutes,

until

browned.

723

*

SEDANI RIPIENI ALLA PRATESE

STUFFED CELERY

TOSCANA

Carefully clean the celery, rinsing away any dirt and

trimming off the 8 celery stalks

Let them cool, then clean them again, cutting away any

small onion, finely sliced

fibrous parts

6 oz. chicken livers 3

A

lb.

and saute

and

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Olive

oil,

and chopping them

Heat the butter

4 inches.

lean ground veal

3 large eggs, beaten Zz

Parboil the ribs for a few min-

leaves.

utes in lightly salted boiling water until slightly softened.

4tbsp. unsalted butter 1

r

Cook

and

and pepper.

salt

egg, Parmigiano-Reggiano,

1

Stir to

livers

few minutes, then take the

this for a

pan off the heat and add

for frying

add the onion,

then add the chicken

until translucent,

veal.

in equal lengths of 3 or

in a saucepan,

blend

well.

Distribute this

All-purpose flour for dredging filling 1

lb.

over each

stalk,

then put the stalks together in

meat sauce (see page 331)

Press

pairs, filling side in. Salt

them together

well

and

tie

and pepper

each pair together with kitchen twine but without mak-

way they

ing any difficult knots: this

Heat

during cooking.

Dredge the celery

will stay together

inch of olive

1

oil until hot.

pairs in flour, then in the remaining

Heat the meat sauce

eggs, then fry until golden.

in a

pan, add the celery, and cook until the sauce has reduced slightly

and the celery has taken on

member

SFORMATO E

D

I

CARCIOFI

PRESCINSEUA

LIGURIA 1

Zi

garlic clove,

cup chopped Zz

flat-leaf

cup extra-virgin

in

Quagliata (prescinsoeua

in dialect) is

very popular

Ricotta thinned with a

parsley

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

olive

Heat the

oil

thin slices

ture.

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

pepper

little

yogurt

the garlic

and

pan and add the

parsley.

garlic

at

moderate heat for 10 minutes.

add the quagliata

to taste.

Pour

this

,

eggs, cheese,

and

mix-

salt,

salt

and Off

and

mixture into a nonstick bak-

ing pan and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the eggs

and pepper

are set

724

Mix

olive oil in a saute

pepper, and cook the heat,

5 large eggs, beaten

a soured-milk product

After a few minutes, add the artichokes,

2 Za cups quagliata (see note)

Salt

in Liguria.

quark cheese) can be substituted.

(or

and

Re-

ARTICHOKE AND CHEESE CASSEROLE

minced

5 artichokes, cleaned

cut

i

a fine red color.

to untie the bundles before serving.

and

lightly golden.

I

SFORMATO

D

I

CAVOLO

VALLE D'AOSTA

I

SAVOY CABBAGE FLANS WITH FONDUTA Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter four 8-ounce ramekins

and arrange them For the flans: Unsalted butter 1

medium

onion, finely

chopped

Savoy cabbage, outer leaves

Zz

removed and

finely

chopped

2 bay leaves

bunch

1

Z*

Combine

1

baking pan that

and cabbage

the onion

water to cover, and season with

move

salt

and cabbage together

the onion

the bay leaves

adding the

is

cups heavy cream Salt

saucepan, add

in a

and bay

For the fonduta: Zz lbs. fontina,

diced

Milk (enough to cover the fontina) 3 large egg yolks

Pepper

and put the mixture

D

I

Cook Re-

in a blender,

Pass the result through a very fine

basil.

sieve (preferably a chinois), then

the

whisk

pan

about

in the oven. Fill the

CAVOLO

To prepare

hour.

1

fontina with milk to cover

baking pan halfway up

it is

do not

until set,

Combine

and a pinch of pepper Blend

perfecdy blended.

let

Bake

the fonduta:

top of a double boiler, stirring with a until

and

in the eggs

Pour the mixture into the ramekins and place

cream.

ened

SFORMATO

leaves.

until very soft.

the sides of the ramekins with cool water.

1

inches

at least 2

inch of space around each of them.

basil

4 large eggs 1

in a

deep and allows for

wooden spoon

in the

egg yolks, but

them scramble. Once the fonduta has

slightly,

serve

it

with the

SAVOY CABBAGE FLAN

VALLE D'AOSTA

This recipe

its

thick-

flans.

ALLA BORGHESE

shows

the

in the

Piemontese origins;

in fact, Vialardi,

cook for the Turin royal household, cites similar preparaUnsalted butter 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive Zz

oil

tions, referring to

them as vegetable

flans. In the Valle

d’Aosta such flans were often accompanied, as

in

Piemonte,

Savoy cabbage, outer leaves

by fondues, sometimes using white Piemontese truffles.

removed and

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a baking dish and

1

finely

chopped

large onion, finely

chopped

2 bay leaves

Several basil leaves, shredded

4 large eggs, beaten Vz

cup heavy cream Salt

and pepper

place least

large

and

it 1

in a larger

inch of

baking pan, making sure there

room on

all sides.

Heat the

is

at

olive oil in a

pan on low heat; add the cabbage, onion, bay leaves,

basil.

When

the cabbage has cooked,

remove the

bay leaves and pass the mixture through a food Stir in the eggs,

cream, and

mixure well to blend.

salt

and pepper.

Pour the mixture

into the smaller

pan, place the whole thing in the oven, then

pan halfway with cool or until

water.

Bake

mill.

Stir this

fill

for about

the larger

30 minutes,

set.

725

SFORMATO

D

I

ORTAGGI IN

TEGLIA

CALABRIA

POTATO AND TOMATO CASSEROLE The name tieddra (also called

meaning “the pan

Latin tigella,

prepared.” There are

is

many versions of tieddra in Calabria, for example, with mushrooms from the Sila Massif or with wild artichokes. Another

cup grated pecorino

variation consists of adding to the potatoes and tomatoes a

tbsp.

1

fctsp.

chili

oil

oregano

pepper flakes

2 lbs. fresh plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and

chopped

in

small pieces

4 or 5 large potatoes (preferably

from Calabria), peeled and cut into thick rounds 1

from the

teglia) is

which the dish

FOR PERSONS

breadcrumbs

Extra-virgin olive

2 tbsp. Yt

in

6

medium

onion, sliced

Several basil leaves, shredded Salt

little

pasta, usually broken-up bucatini. The addition of this

ingredient alone

makes the tieddra e\/e n more

flavorful.

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Grease an earthenware baking dish with olive

oregano, and

Combine

oil.

chili

pepper

the breadcrumbs, cheese,

in a

bowl and

set aside.

Spread a layer of tomatoes across the bottom of the season with

salt,

and top with

a layer of potatoes.

dish,

Place

of onion here and there along with some of the

slices

breadcrumb mixture; add the with olive

oil.

basil leaves,

then drizzle

Repeat, beginning with another layer of

tomatoes and ending with a layer of the breadcrumb mixture. Top this with

pouring 1

it

in slowly

more

olive

from the

oil.

side,

Add a little water,

then bake for about

hour, or until a golden crust has formed on the top.

Serve

this exquisite dish at

room temperature

LOCAL TRADITION

SFORMATO

D

I

CON SALSA In

this recipe

from Puglia

potatoes would a

first

for timbales of

LAMPASCIONI D

SEDANO

I

muscari and potato

be boiled separately, dried

in a

warm

smooth mixture along with grated Pugliese pecorino,

flan,

oven,

salt,

the muscari and

and then pureed

into

pepper, and parsley. A

beaten egg white would then be folded into the mixture. The muscari and potato puree

would then be spooned crumbs. The dish

in

filled

into

ramekins that had been greased and dusted with bread-

ramekins would be baked

a hot oven just until set. After

in

a cool water bath in a large roasting

coming out

of the oven, the timbales

turned out onto a serving plate on top of a smooth puree of celery, pepper, and served immediately.

726

olive

would be

oil, salt,

and

or cold.

STUFFED ONIONS

SIOLE PIENE

PIEMONTE

This dish

is

typical of Ivrea.

Ground meat can be used

in

place of the herbs.

Vh

lbs.

onions (preferably

Zi

cup 04

cifrollini)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Boil the onions in

unsalted butter

lb.)

(flat-leaf parsley,

and scoop out aside the pulp.

basil, mint,

arugula, celery leaves, and so on), finely

chopped

%

cup breadcrumbs, softened in Zi cup milk

breadcrumbs

raisins,

along with 4 eggs and half of the ParmigianoStuff the onion bowls with this mixture and

Drizzle this over the onions:

Top each onion with

cup milk

GENOVESE

SPINACI ALLA

LIGURIA

in the

Beat the remaining 3 eggs

with the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano and the milk.

eggs

bake

Salt

1

until the surface

is

it

should almost cover them.

a pat of the remaining butter

Za lbs.

spinach

2tbsp. extra-virgin olive garlic clove, 1

1

oil

chopped

tbsp. pine nuts

and

browned.

SPINACH GENOA-STYLE Clean and rinse the spinach, squeeze dry, and steam using only the moisture that remains in

1

1

setting

pan and add the salt to taste.

arrange them in a baking pan.

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Zi

in a

Take the mixture off the heat and mix

and

Zi cup raisins, lukewarm water

7 large 1

form small bowls,

Heat half the butter

herbs/greens and onion pulp. Saute, adding

Reggiano. in

their insides to

sage, rosemary,

bay leaves, thyme,

softened

lightly salted

water to cover until tender, cut them in half horizontally,

mixed herbs and greens

Zi lb.

squeeze

it

again.

spinach and

Heat the

garlic.

nuts and raisins.

olive oil in a

Season with

salt,

Cook for about

it.

it,

Drain and

pan and add the

then add the pine

10 minutes

at

moder-

ate heat. Serve the spinach over slices of toasted bread.

soaked in lukewarm water

tbsp. raisins,

4 slices peasant-style bread,

toasted Salt

SPOLLICHINI

IN

BISACCIA

CAMPANIA

BEANS IN SAUCE This dish

is

typical of Salerno.

Boil the beans in a large pot with water to cover 1

Zi lb.

lb.

fresh shelled beans

green beans, tips cut

off

couple of inches until tender, about

green beans after 10 minutes.

CONTINUED cotta

pan heat the

olive oil

1

5 minutes.

Meanwhile,

and add the

by a

Add

the

in a terra-

garlic,

tomato

727

5 tbsp. olive

cups tomato puree

Zi

1

oil

crushed

2 garlic cloves,

5 basil leaves 1

small bunch flat-leaf parsley,

puree,

basil,'

and

parsley, celery,

until blended.

chili

pepper.

Cook

just

Transfer the beans to a bowl, pour the

sauce over, and toss to mix. Let stand 30 minutes so the

can blend. Serve on toasted

flavors

slices

of peasant-style

bread.

chopped Several celery stalks, chopped 1

dried

chili

pepper

Slices of peasant-style bread,

toasted

STUFATO

VERDURE PRIMAVERA

D

I

SICILIA

SPRING VEGETABLE STEW Serve this dish as a one-dish entree or as a side dish, or use as a sauce for pasta

1

2

small onion, finely chopped

oz.

pancetta (or prosciutto), diced

2

cups fresh shelled fava beans

A cups fresh

2

1

/z

1

shelled peas

6 artichokes, cleaned,

Zi

trimmed and cut

of outer leaves,

Zt

cup white wine

in

thin sections

cup extra-virgin

olive

tbsp. finely

1

tbsp. finely

,

somewhat

large saucepan,

Add

tablespoons water.

and

after a

chokes. a

the pancetta (or prosciutto)

few minutes the peas, fava beans, and

Add

the wine

and turn the heat up

few minutes to evaporate

stir in

barrels.

in

cook the onion with 2

the parsley, cover,

Add

it.

and cook

half of the olive

at

low heat,

vegetables are tender, add salt and pepper, if

needed, and

basil.

more

oil;

stirring

When

20 minutes.

to time, for about

arti-

to high for

the

olive oil

Serve hot.

parsley

chopped

Salt

In a

from time

chopped

flat-leaf

pennette for example). For the wine

oil,

or as needed 1

(

use a Sicilian white that has been aged

basil

and pepper

TARTRA

PIEMONTE

ARTICHOKE FLAN This dish

is

6

FOR persons

typical of Asti.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour an earthen2 tbsp. unsalted butter

All-purpose flour 1

medium

onion,

chopped

4 large eggs plus 2 yolks, beaten 2 cups lukewarm milk 1

cup heavy cream

3 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

CONTINUED

728

ware baking dish and place

making sure there

is

at least

Heat the remaining butter

it 1

in a larger baking pan,

inch of room on

in a

all

heat and add the onion, cooking until golden. large bowl, beat the eggs

cheese, herbs,

salt,

and egg

stir

well to blend.

into the prepared dish. Place the

In a

yolks, milk, cream,

pepper, and nutmeg.

and artichokes and

sides.

pan over medium-low

Add the onion

Pour the mixture

whole thing

in the oven,

2 tbsp. mixed

chopped herbs

then

(sage, fresh bay, rosemary)

fill

the larger

minutes, or until

pan halfway with cool water. Bake 30

set.

Pinch grated nutmeg 1

cup

chopped cooked

finely

artichoke hearts Salt

and freshly ground black pepper

LOCAL TRADITION ST While this recipe from Lazio in

and

garlic

olive

oil

—

it

is

R

I

quite basic

GO

L

— blanched campion

strigoli,

from the

according to legend ancient sorcerers would use Strigoli

can be gathered wild

when

flowers; like

it

many Rieti,

in fields

it

Italian strega,

wild herbs, once the plant flowers

to

make

is

and infusions.

through March,

no longer edible.

excellent frittatas,

oil,

spinach or arugula, the strigoli will decrease noticeably

salt, in

cooked greens that are produced from the abundant raw

TIMBALLO D PATATE I

BASILICATA

I

% cup grated chopped

pecorino

flat-leaf

Milk

(if

parsley

necessary)

2 large hard-boiled eggs,

shelled and cut 1

Vi

in

rounds

cups cubed provolone 6

oz.

amount

relatively small

leaves,

of

would be said to murstrigoli.

POTATO TIMBALE Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking dish with butter.

cup unsalted butter 2 lbs. potatoes

2 tbsp.

soups,

volume during cooking,

der their wives, believing they had received a secret lover and fed him the

]4

in

and lemon. Because,

has also earned the somewhat sinister nickname ammazzamogli, or “wife-

because hot-headed husbands, upon seeing the

killers,”

it

fall

the tender leaves and thin stalks, which can be said to re-

or are even very simply blanched and dressed with olive

this plant

or “witch,” because

for magical potions

throughout Lazio from the

semble wild asparagus with larger tufts, are used

like

(or cowbells) sauteed

has an intriguing history. The original and preferred wild

green used for this dish was called

Around Viterbo and

I

Boil the potatoes until soft, peel them,

them through

a potato ricer.

Mix

with the pecorino and parsley. If the mixture

add a

little

milk.

It

baking dish and top

in the

eggs, provolone,

and sausage.

butter.

is

too thick,

should be creamy and not too

Put the mixture

maining

and put

the resulting puree

Bake

Top with

for about

it

stiff.

with the

pats of the re-

30 minutes, or

until

golden, then serve.

sausage, sliced

729

#

TORTA

SWISS CHARD AND RICOTTA

BIETOLE RICOTTA

Dl

E

SICILIA

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking dish with olive

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

14 lbs.

oil

a large

10 oz. ricotta

Dl

I

olive oil in

until totally wilted.

salt

and pepper

EGGPLANT

Put this

lightly. 1

0 minutes.

PIE

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking dish with butter

2 tbsp. unsalted butter,

2 tbsp.

Heat the remaining

mixture in the baking dish and bake for

LOMBARDIA melted and cooled

well.

and chard, and

the eggs

and pepper

MELANZANE

and drain

pan and add the chard. Cook

In a bowl, crush the ricotta with the tines of a fork, add

3 large eggs, beaten

TORTA

Parboil the Swiss chard until tender, about

oil.

5 minutes,

Swiss chard

Salt

r-

and

sprinkle

it

the eggplants, cut

with some of the breadcrumbs. Peel

them in quarters, and immediately cook

slightly

them

breadcrumbs

in a

salted water for

little

no more than 10 minutes.

Drain and press down on them to remove the water; 5 or 6 firm eggplants

also

remove the

larger seeds.

2 large eggs, beaten 1

cheese,

heaping tbsp. grated

the eggplant, eggs,

Mix

in the

remaining butter and nutmeg and pour into the baking

Parmigiano-Reggiano

dish.

grated nutmeg

14 tsp.

Mix

and the remaining breadcrumbs. Bake

are golden,

Salt

for about

20 minutes, until the breadcrumbs

and serve piping

hot.

EASTER |

TORTA

PASQUA

Dl

VALLE D'AOSTA

!

SPRING GREENS PIE This dish

is

typical of

Arnaud and

is

much

like

the Tourte

d’Espinoche known from the Middle Ages. 4

oz. lardo,

14 lb. (1 stick)

minced

unsalted butter

Begin the preparation the night before

(traditionally the

eve of Easter) Heat the lardo and butter in a pan, add .

small onion, thinly sliced

1

3 lbs. mixed spring greens, from

garden or

a

wild: sage,

and saute

until translucent.

baking pan or cast-iron

skillet.

Put

it

into a large

Add the greens and egg

together the cornmeal and flour with

wild spinach, nettles, hop buds,

mixture.

dandelion, plantain, chives, wild

Blend into the egg mixture and add the sausages

arugula,

meadow

salsify, lovage,

leaves of costmary, lamb’s quarter,

parboiled and chopped 4 large eggs, beaten

in

3 cups milk

2 cups cornmeal (or 1

14

whole-wheat

flour)

cups all-purpose flour

3 small Valdostan sausages

(mixed beef and lard) Salt

730

the onion,

rosemary,

center.

Sift

Cover and

refrigerate overnight.

(Easter) preheat the oven to 350°F.

The

Bake

salt.

at the

next day

for about 2

hours, checking its progress often. The final result should

be firm but not dry.

TORTA RUSTICA CARCIOFI

Dl

ABRUZZO

RUSTIC TORTE WITH ARTICHOKES

it 1

]4

cups all-purpose

more

plus

if

and

A cup

3

A

to take

a

filling:

4tbsp. unsalted butter

trimmed and quartered

6 oz. prosciutto crudo, diced 2 small balls mozzarella, diced

(about

together the flour,

a very soft dough. Divide let rest.

Heat the butter

little

until they start

color.

oil

season with

12 artichokes,

FOR PERSONS

Remove from the heat. Add the and mozzarella. Mix the eggs and pecorino;

on

prosciutto

For the

make

pan and cook the artichokes

cup)

extra-virgin olive

olive oil to

two small loaves and

into

in a large

needed

7 oz. ricotta (about 2

flour,

Knead

Preheat the oven to 400°F. ricotta,

For the dough:

6

salt.

Cover the bottom with the

baking pan.

on

Roll out the small loaves

board to form sheets of dough and use the

a floured

first

to line a

slices

of fon-

then top with the vegetable mixture; pour over the

tina,

egg mixture. Cover with the remaining sheet of dough

and

seal the edges.

the crust

is

Bake

for about

45 minutes, or

until

golden brown.

Zi lb.)

3 large eggs, beaten Zi

4

cup grated aged pecorino

oz. fontina,

cut

in

very thin slices Salt

TORTIERA

Dl

CARCIOFI

CALABRIA

LAYERED PIE WITH ARTICHOKES This dish

typical of Vibo Valentia.

is

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Extra-virgin olive Zi

oil

cup breadcrumbs 8 artichokes

Lemon juice

ball mozzarella, Zi

cubed

cup grated pecorino 1

chokes in

tbsp.

oregano

Grease a round baking pan

and dust with breadcrumbs. Boil the

oil

lightly salted

drain

when

cool,

and cut

(or vinegar)

2 oz. spicy salame, cubed 1

with olive

arti-

water acidulated with lemon juice,

three-quarters done (about 15 minutes), in small sections.

Lay some of

chokes across the bottom of the baking pan.

the arti-

Mix

the

salame, cheeses, remaining breadcrumbs, and oregano,

then

make

a layer of this mixture over the artichokes.

Repeat the

layers, alternating the artichokes

mixture.

Drizzle olive

Salt

forms a

light

oil

and salame

over the top and bake until

it

golden crust.

731

VERDURA SSETTATA CON VENTRESCA Dl MAI ALE

|

PUGLIA

VEGETABLES AND PANCETTA Preheat the oven to 350°F.

baking pan with olive Va

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

breadcrumbs.

2tbsp. breadcrumbs

oil

Grease the bottom of a

and sprinkle with half the

Clean the chicory and parboil, until half

cooked, about 10 minutes. Drain.

2 lbs. catalogna chicory

olive oil in a

pan over low

heat,

(a cultivated relative of wild

cook

1

/a

crumbs and pecorino and chicory.

Slices of peasant-style bread,

toasted

VERDURA STRANGH ATA 1

CALABRIA

Bake

for

/a lbs.

mixed wild or cultivated

Mix

the remaining bread-

sprinkle this

20 minutes. Serve

on top of the

warm on

slices

of

toasted bread.

1

"STRANGE” GREENS Boil the greens for about

squeeze them dry. 1

the half-cooked

Pour the chicory-tomato mixture

into the prepared baking pan.

cups tomato puree

tbsp. grated pecorino

Add

until slightly thickened.

chicory to the pan.

7 oz. fresh pancetta, thinly sliced

1

After a few minutes, add the tomato puree and

cetta.

chicory) or wild chicory

small onion, thinly sliced

1

Heat the remaining

add the onion, then pan-

garlic,

and cook until

1

minute, drain, and lighdy

add the

Heat the

olive oil in a pan,

fragrant.

Add the greens and bread

greens: chicory, spinach, beets, broccoli florets /a

cup extra-virgin 1

and cook

for 5 minutes, stirring. Serve hot.

olive oil

garlic clove

2 slices peasant-style bread, toasted

and

finely

crumbled Salt

VERDURE MISTE IN

PADELLA

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

PAN-FRIED GREENS Cook

the greens in lighdy salted boiling water for about

2 minutes; drain and, without drying, roughly chop. 3 lbs. mixed greens:

Heat the lardo

in a

spinach, chard, leeks, chicory, celery leaves, radicchio

2 oz. lardo, finely minced 2 garlic cloves 1

tbsp. all-purpose flour Salt

732

and pepper

flour,

and brown.

pan with the

Add

the

pepper and cook for about

garlic cloves,

chopped greens,

5 minutes.

add the salt,

and

VERDURE RIPIENE LIGURIA

1

VEGETABLE STUFFING This dish

Savona and can be used to

typical of

is

chini, eggplant, boiled onions,

cup extra-virgin

14 1

oz.

olive oil

mushrooms, softened

dried

warm water and

in

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking pan with olive

Combine

oil.

chopped olive oil

1

tbsp.

the

finely

chop them

and marjo-

garlic,

Heat the remaining

When these

and cook the mushroom mixture.

have cooked well, add roll,

softened

2 large eggs

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 54

cup grated pecorino 2 Salt

the other ingredients

and pepper

and

salt

Stuff the chosen vegetables, ar-

to taste.

range them in the baking pan, and bake for about 40 minutes, or until the stuffing

is

golden. Serve

warm on

a

serving plate.

oz. ricotta

and pepper

ZUCCA ALLA SCAPECE

CAMPANIA

MARINATED SQUASH Cut the squash about

14 lbs.

all

in

milk and squeezed dry

1

together.

chopped fresh marjoram

Crustless bread of a

14

mushrooms,

drained

ram and garlic clove,

1

stuff zuc-

or raw peppers or tomatoes.

yellow winter squash,

a

warm

into rectangles 54 inch

by 2 inches and

Sprinkle with salt and set aside in

inch thick.

54

place (out in the sun

is

ideal) for

about an hour.

peeled and seeds removed

Heat the cup extra-virgin

Vi

olive oil

and cook the squash pieces a few

a time until they take their tbsp. chili

14

on

Drain them, reserving

color.

bunch mint leaves

1

1

at

olive oil

cooking

oil,

pepper flakes

cup white wine vinegar

then form them into several layers in a

container, alternating each layer with a layer of mint leaves,

pepper,

chili

pepper, and a pinch of

Pour

salt.

2 garlic cloves Salt

and pepper

the vinegar into a saucepan, 54

cup water, and bring

10 minutes then pour 3 tablespoons of the

it

oil

Cover the container and

add the

to a boil.

garlic cloves

Let

this boil

and

about

over the squash, adding about the squash was cooked let this

in.

marinate for about 12

hours in the refrigerator. Serve cold.

ZUCCHINE ALLA SCAPECE

CAMPANIA

MARINATED ZUCCHINI WITH MINT This dish

is

typical of Salerno.

Scapece

is

even better served

the next day. 3/2

lbs.

medium

cut

in

zucchini,

Arrange the zucchini rounds on a plate and

thick rounds

to dry in a

CONTINUED

Heat the

warm

olive oil

place (out in the sun

and cook the rounds

if

a

set

them out

possible).

few

at a

time

733

0

0 Zi

cup

olive

until they take

oil

spoon,

2 garlic cloves, sliced 1

Zi

bunch mint leaves

lift

on

Using a skimmer or

color.

them out of

the

and

oil

slotted

them

transfer

to a

bowl, alternating layers of zucchini with layers of garlic

cup white wine vinegar

and mint and

leaves.

let it rest

Pour the vinegar over

about 2 hours.

Do

not

the whole thing

stir until

the

mo-

ment of serving.

SWEET-AND-SOUR ZUCCHINE

IN

ZUCCHINI

AGRODOLCE

SARDEGNA

This dish

tumn or Olive 1

oil,

for frying

sliced in

typical of

Nuoro and

in batches

rounds

and

delicious

is

oil in

a large pan.

in

Add

the au-

the zucchini

them when done

fry, transferring

other pan large enough to hold

4tbsp. sugar

warm

summertime.

Heat % inch of olive

small zucchini,

Zi lbs.

is

cold in the

them

to an-

in a single layer.

When all the zucchini has been fried, melt the

sugar and

4 tbsp. white wine vinegar

vinegar together in a saucepan over low heat and pour

it

Put them back over heat for a min-

over the zucchini. ute and serve hot.

MARINATED ZUCCHINI

IN

ZUCCHINI STRIPS

CAODA

PIEMONTE

This dish

is

typical of Monferrato.

Heat % inch of olive Extra-virgin olive Zi lbs.

1

2 garlic cloves,

oil

oil in

a pan.

Cut the zucchini length-

wise to form long strips and briefly cook them in the

zucchini

oil until lightly

chopped

Make

2 anchovies, rinsed, oil,

golden. Transfer

them

to a container.

the marinade by combining 2 tablespoons olive

the garlic, anchovies, chili pepper,

salt,

pepper, and

boned, and chopped

Pour the marinade over the zucchini, making

vinegar. 1

dried

chili

pepper, crumbled

sure the zucchini Zi

is

completely covered.

Marinate for

cup white wine vinegar Salt

at least

and pepper

24 hours, covered,

in the refrigerator. Serve hot

or cold according to the season.

ZUCCHINE

IN

CARPIONE

PIEMONTE

1

SAUTEED ZUCCHINI Heat the

olive oil over

cook, adding 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

CONTINUED

734

ored,

low heat, add the onions, and

salt to taste.

When

add the zucchini and cook

the onions have col-

until golden.

bread and cook 10 to 15 minutes, adding a

Add the warm

little

2

medium

onions, finely sliced

Vz lbs.

1

zucchini, cut in

water

needed

if

to keep the mixture sufficiently soft.

Serve hot.

small pieces and seeded

Bread of a

roll,

soaked

vinegar

in

and squeezed dry 'Salt

ZUCCHINE MARINATE LAZIO

MARINATED ZUCCHINI This dish

is

typical of

Rome.

Clean the zucchini, trim off the ends, and cut them into 1

zucchini

lb.

Extra-virgin olive

oil

2 garlic cloves, sliced 14

cup white wine vinegar 1

tbsp. finely

chopped

flat-leaf

parsley

Heat

disks.

heat.

oil in

a saute as

pan over high soon as they

garlic until golden;

Turn

salt.

it

add the vinegar,

off the heat,

over the zucchini.

least

one

full

Heat

second pan and saute the

5 tablespoons olive oil in a

of

LIGURIA

inch of olive

begin to brown and putting them in a container.

Salt

ZUCCHINE RIPIENE

Vz

Fry the zucchini, removing them

stir

parsley,

and

a pinch

the marinade, and pour

Let them marinate

in this liquid at

day before serving. Serve cold.

STUFFED ZUCCHINI Eggplant can be prepared

in

the

same manner.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Clean the zucchini, parboil 12 small zucchini

cup extra-virgin

34 1

olive

Vz garlic cloves,

14 oz.

soaked

oil

minced

mushrooms, lukewarm water,

dried in

drained, and chopped 2 large eggs, beaten

% cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 2 oz. crustless bread, soaked

in

milk

and squeezed dry 1

1

tbsp. fresh

Vz

oregano

cups breadcrumbs Salt

and pepper

them

in lightly salted water to cover until they just start

to soften, about 6 minutes,

cool

enough

and

to handle, cut

Scoop out the pulp with

a spoon, setting aside the

chop the pulp and

the olive

hot, then

rooms

until the

they are

in half lengthwise.

tied halves. Finely oil until

When

drain.

them

cook the

set

it

aside.

garlic

empHeat

and mush-

mushrooms have wilted and the moisRemove from the heat and let cool.

ture has evaporated.

When

this

mixture has cooled, add the zucchini pulp,

eggs, cheese, bread, oregano,

salt,

and pepper.

Fill

the

zucchini halves with this mixture and arrange them in oil

and sprinkle with

breadcrumbs, then place

in the oven.

Pour about % inch

of water into the pan.

Bake for about 25 minutes, or

a baking pan. Drizzle with olive

until the filling

is

golden.

735

CHAPTER SEVEN

r

0

FONDUE WITH WHITE TRUFFLES

FONDUTA CON TARFUFI 1

BIANCHI

Dl

ALBA

1

PIEMONTE

Put the high-quality fontina in a bowl, add (or

1

cups cubed high-quality fontina

Vi

enough

it

1

more as needed

/

cups cubed lower-fat fontina

%

lb.

oz.

with an equal quantity of fresh milk.

boiler.

unsalted butter

Add

let sit

Meanwhile,

the egg yolks, then pour in the milk

and fontina mixture.

4 egg yolks, lightly beaten 3

and

melt the lower-fat fontina with the butter in the top of a

double (3 sticks)

cup of milk

Pour off and discard the milk, replacing

for 3 hours.

(preferably from the Valle d’Aosta) 2 cups milk, plus

1

to cover the cheese completely),

it is

white truffles from Alba, shaved

a thick,

creamy

Cook, whisking constantly,

until

Serve the fondue hot, with

liquid.

a dusting of the truffles.

YALDOSTAN FONDUE

FONDUTA VALDOSTANA

vented by the cook of Count Cavour, Forte di Bard

2 Zz cups cubed fontina (preferably from the Valle d’Aosta) 2

was probably inwho had spent time at

This recipe dates back to the 1800s and

VALLE D'AOSTA

(in

Aosta)

in his

fondue had already appeared Vincent La Chapelle

cups milk

in

1

youth. However, the term

in

the Cuisinier Moderne by

735, used for a preparation of French

cheeses and truffles with eggs. This fondue

2tbsp. unsalted butter

as a sauce for boiled

4 large egg yolks, beaten

enware bowls with in butter,

table, or

rice.

slices of white

simply dusting

it

is

also excellent

The fondue can be served

it

in

earth-

bread toasted or sauteed

with black pepper ground at the

can be served with white Piemonte truffles sliced

using a truffle sheer.

Put the fontina in a bowl, cover with milk, and ate overnight.

drain off most of the milk.

melt the butter.

Add

In the top of a double boiler,

the fontina with

and cook at low heat until melted, a

refriger-

When you are ready to make the fondue,

wooden spoon.

Add

its

remaining milk

stirring constantly with

the egg yolks

all

at

once and

cook, stirring and never letting the mixture boil, until

has

FORM AGGIO COTTO CON PATATE E CIPOLLA FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

1

i

become

it

a smooth, dense cream.

CHEESE SAUCE WITH POTATOES AND ONIONS This sauce, typical of the area of Carnia, goes quite well with

polenta. 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

lb.

oil

potatoes, peeled and cubed

% cup chopped onions

738

Heat the

olive oil in a

pan and cook the potatoes and

onions over low heat until the potatoes begin to

fall

apart,

adding water as needed to keep them from taking on any

When

the potatoes have nearly disintegrated,

fresh Montasio, cut

in

pieces

color.

9 oz. aged Montasio, cut

in

pieces

add both cheeses,

9

oz.

ture

Salt

FRICO

1

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

and adding

If

4

fresh Montasio, finely cubed

oz. oz.

aged Montasio,

finely

form a homogeneous mix-

CHEESE CRISP you place the disk of cheese while

down 4

stirring to

salt to taste.

bowl,

it

will

still

hot atop an upside-

take on a nice basket shape as

it

cools.

Mix the cheeses together. Heat a large nonstick pan over medium heat. Sprinkle the two cheeses in the pan so that they cover the entire surface. Cook until the cheese melts

cubed

but does not take on color. Gently turn over to cook on the other side briefly, until crisp.

LOCAL TRADITION

FRICO In

this simple recipe

from

Friuli-Venezia Giulia for fried

fresh mountain cheese are sauteed

in

a

little

cheese disks, thin slices of

olive oil or butter until they

form

a single

disk with a crust. Popular variations include the additions of sliced onions, tomatoes, potatoes, or even apples, first fried and then added to the cheese as

come

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

i

CHEESE CRISP WITH POTATOES Heat the pancetta

6 oz.

smoked

pancetta, diced

onion, cut

in

thin slices

4 large potatoes, peeled and cubed

10

oz.

Montasio

aged 3 months), cut

in

(if

possible,

lucent.

I

Add the onion and cook until trans-

%

Add the potatoes, salt, pepper, and 1 cup water; Add the cheese and blend. Transfer an 8- or 9-inch pan, leaving behind as much fat as

1

until

cook 30 minutes. this to

possible. Saute the/nco

on both

sides until

it

has a golden

small cubes

crust. Salt

| pan over low heat

it

in a large

begins to give off fat.

medium

melts to be-

part of the final crispy disk.

FRICO CON PATATE

1

it

and pepper

Cut

in quarters

and

serve.

739

1

*

MARINATED TOMINO CHEESE

FROMATZET DE PERANCHE

1

1

VALLE D'AOSTA

The amounts of ingredients

bunch

mayeur, can be adjusted to your personal tastes. Tomino cheese comes in small disks.

flat-leaf parsley,

finely

chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely

chopped

dried

Put the chopped ingredients

meg and

pepper, finely chopped

chili

A few sage

leaves, finely

Add

pepper.

this recipe, typical of Cour-

in

in a

olive oil

bowl and add the nut-

and vinegar

sauce; put the tomino cheese in this sauce

chopped for a

few hours.

Serve with

to

make

a

and let it stand

of toasted bread.

slices

2 sprigs thyme, finely chopped 1

celery stalk, finely chopped

Pinch grated nutmeg 5 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

3 tbsp. white wine vinegar 8 fresh tomino cheeses

from the

Valle d’Aosta,

cubed

16 slices bread, toasted

Pepper

FUGASSA CO FORM AGGIO

1

FOCACCIA WITH CHEESE For the cheese you can use Crescentina, Invernizzina, or

LIGURIA

Stracchino from Liguria.

1

1

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

1

% cups hard durum flour

lb.

oil

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking sheet with

Coarse

and sprinkle with

olive oil

cheese (see note), cubed

a pasta

salt

dough

salt.

as in the recipe

Use

spoons water in place of the eggs; about

/%

the flour to prepare

on page

1

using 5 table-

0,

roll

out two sheets

Arrange the

inch thick (see note, page 212).

cubes of cheese across one of the sheets and cover with the other. Place

on the prepared pan and bake

dough has formed

until the

and the cheese has

a golden crust

melted, about 15 minutes.

LARGE TOMATO AND

PANZEROTTI,

MOZZARELLA

E

POMODORO PUGLIA

1

MOZZARELLA RAVIOLI Use the using

5

cups all-purpose flour /a oz.

active dry yeast

CONTINUED

740

flour

and yeast to prepare

1% cups water (and add

place of eggs. Cover and

2 hours.

them

let

a

dough

as

the potato

the

dough

if

on page

10,

desired) in

rise for

about

Meanwhile, crush the tomatoes and drain

in a colander.

When

the tomatoes are well drained,

large potato, boiled

1

add them to the mozzarella and season with

and

put through a sieve (optional) 1

10

oz.

lb.

plum tomatoes, peeled

mozzarella (best

if

Divide the dough into

per.

balls,

then

into a disk about 8 inches in diameter

aged),

roll

and

V&

salt

and pep-

out each ball inch thick.

Put a few tablespoons of the mozzarella and tomato mix-

diced

ture at the center of each, fold the Extra-virgin olive

oil,

dough over

to

form a

for frying

moon, and

half

and pepper

Salt

edges to

Heat

seal.

the panzerotti, to prevent

close with a pasta wheel, pinching the

and

1

inch of olive

fry until golden,

oil in

a large pan,

add

moving them around

them from taking on too much

color.

LOCAL TRADITION PA From Trivento in

in

Molise

comes

L

LOTT E

this old recipe for

cheese and sausage dumplings

tomato sauce. The dumplings would be made with

stale

bread without the crust,

grated pecorino, finely chopped dried sausage, and parsley worked together with egg

dough would then be shaped

to yield a soft dough. This

and the

balls lightly rolled in flour.

into meatball-size

dumplings

A simple tomato sauce of onion and lardo slowly

sauteed together, tomato puree, water, and salt would be prepared alongside and

used to cook the dumplings, undisturbed, for about twenty minutes. The trick was not to stir the sauce at

all

or remove the

otherwise the delicate dumplings would go

i

PEYLA D’ORZO

VALLE D'AOSTA

I

lid

from the pan

until just

before serving,

flat.

POTATO PUREE WITH CHEESE This dish

is

typical of Cogne.

Boil the potatoes in a pot of lightly salted water to cover, 1

1

Vz lbs.

potatoes, peeled

% cups soft wheat flour % cups barley flour 1

2 oz. fontina

4

oz.

toma

(soft,

fresh cheese,

can substitute Za

cup (4tbsp.) unsalted

drain

them

(reserving the water), peel them, and put

Mix the flours and whisk when they are well mixed add the mashed potatoes. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, for about 30 minthem through them

a potato ricer.

into the potato water;

ricotta)

utes.

Transfer to another pot and add the cheese,

butter,

melted Salt

stirring until

all

the cheese has melted.

Pour the melted

butter over the top and serve.

741

LOCAL TRADITION

RICOTTA MANTECATA CON CIALDE Once

a traditional dish for the feast of

this recipe for

Piemontese

Our Lady Help of Christians held

—the

marinated ricotta (or seirass

comes from the area

ricotta)

local

of Quincinetto

and was

the upper Canavese. The fresh, soft seirass would be mixed with seeds, a crumbled hot

chili

resulting grainy mixture,

and could either be near the hearth

in a

now

a

straw color, was called salignon

in

I

MARCHE

zest.

3tsp. sugar

push

5 cups all-purpose flour

oz. ricotta

2 !4 tsp. active dry yeast,

warm

Grated zest of 10

oz.

fresh pecorino, cut Salt

in

1

Fill

size of a small apple.

FOR 6 CHEESE ROLLS

salt,

if

possible

made

of terra-cotta. Beat

pepper, and sugar.

Gradually add

and lemon

a stick of pecorino into the middle of each one, then

warm

place and wait for the

until

doubled in volume.

Bake

for about

dough

to rise

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

30 minutes, then lower the heat

to

325°

until golden.

lemon

6 sticks

and pepper

MOLISE

I

FRIED RICOTTA Prepared this way, ricotta side while on the inside

oil,

for frying

continued

742

it

became known as

and bake another 30 minutes

milk

RICOTTA FRITTA

Olive

it

each ramekin halfway with the mixture and

set aside in a

% cup grated pecorino 4

the local dialect,

the flour, pecorino, ricotta, yeast mixture,

7 large eggs

3tbsp.

smoked,

Butter 6 ramekins,

cup) unsalted butter

in

in

CHEESE ROLLS the eggs with

dissolved

If

round bundles about the

PIZZA COL FORMAGGIO

34 lb. (Vi

throughout

pepper, cumin

few days and eaten fresh or be dried by hanging

canvas bag to absorb the smoke.

mortret and could be bought

typical salt,

May,

"curd” for

pepper, and, according to taste, wild fennel seeds. The

to sit for a

left

in late

name meaning

j

it

is

golden and crunchy on the out-

maintains

n a p an? h eat 3 j nc hes of olive

slices in flour,

all its

soft creaminess.

oil until hot.

Dip the ricotta

then in eggs, then in breadcrumbs. Fry

them until golden, then remove them with

ricotta (preferably sheep’s

lb.

1

milk), in

somewhat thick

slices

2 tbsp. all-purpose flour

them out

and

set

with

salt.

on paper

to drain

a slotted spoon

towels. Sprinkle

2 large eggs, beaten 1

cup breadcrumbs * Salt

SCAMORZA AFFUMICATA CON FUNGHI CARDONCELLI ALL’OLIO

PUGLIA

I

I

SMOKED SCAMORZA SALAD WITH MUSHROOMS Heat a

or

grill

lb.

smoked scamorza cheese Vi

lb.

salad greens

pan

grill

Cut

until hot.

the scamorza into

and arrange these over the

thick slices 1

minutes; meanwhile, wash and tear

and arrange

up

grill

Top with

in a serving bowl.

for a

few

the salad greens the scamorza

(radicchio, lettuce, arugula)

and mushrooms and serve immediately. 7 oz. oil-packed cardoncelli

mushrooms, drained

SCHIZ CON POLENTA

VENETO

HOMEMADE CHEESE Schiz

2/i gallons fresh whole milk 'A oz.

rennet (available as rennin in

most supermarkets) Unsalted butter Salt

is

the typical daily cheese of the mountain communi-

around

ties

hardly

and Belluno. Although

Feltre

more than

in

substance

rennet, along with polenta

it

it

is

represented

the almost daily meal of the mountain dweller. Today schizis available at

some

requisite for

its

stores, but since freshness

quality, the best will

and eaten within

a day.

is

always be

the essential

made

at

home

Refinements include the addition of

cream or milk during the cooking phase and dipping the slices of schiz in beaten eggs and breadcrumbs before cooking

it.

Serve on a

warmed

plate with polenta.

Heat some fresh whole milk

in a

pan

of about 95°F; add the rennet and

more than 30 minutes. mass, reducing another stirring.

1

it

Use

a

first

for a

After

to grains the size of a pea.

0 minutes of

rest,

heat

little

whisk to separate the

it

to

1

04°F, constantly

After another period of rest in which the ren-

net will separate from the whey, drain slice,

to a temperature

let it rest

and saute

on one

in a

side

it

through a cloth,

pan with some butter and

and then on the

other, until

a

little salt,

it

forms a

golden crust.

743

r

#

BREADED CHEESE

SCHIZ IMPANATO

VENETO

Heat the butter over medium-high heat the cheese in l/z-inch-thick slices, dip

4 tbsp. CA cup) unsalted butter

in

Schiz (see note, page 743)

1

breadcrumbs, and fry them

side,

3 large eggs, beaten

ately with

on one

formed a nice

when

only at the end

salt

Cut

in egg, then

until golden, first

then on the other, adding

the slices will have

Cup breadcrumbs

until hot.

them

Serve immedi-

crust.

cooked mushrooms.

Cooked wild mushrooms Salt

CRUSHED POTATOES |

TAROZ

LOMBARDIA

AND BEANS WITH CHEESE Tardz\s a dish unknown outside the Valtellina, where first

3

A 1

1

1

1

or

Vz

lb.

potatoes, peeled

Zi lbs.

green beans

cups fresh shelled beans

lb. (2

cups) unsalted butter

more medium

onions, sliced

4 oz. young casern, cubed

4 Zz

oz.

grasso casera, cubed

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt

and pepper

tions from zone to zone. Casera

cheese. You can substitute

Cook

the potatoes

boiling water;

is

a generic

bitto, Taleggio,

was

together in the

term meaning

or fontina.

and green beans together

cook the shelled beans

the vegetables are tender, drain

a

it

created on the banks of the Davaglione. There are varia-

same bowl.

them and

Heat

Vz

in a pot of

separately. set

When

them

aside

cup of the butter

in

pan and add the onions; cook over medium-low heat

until the

Using a wooden

onions are golden brown.

spoon, roughly crush the vegetables and

when the butter

has browned, add them to the pan and mix well at low heat for 5 minutes. salt,

Add the

rest

of the butter, cheeses,

and pepper. Cook over low heat

until the cheese

is

melted and smooth. Serve hot.

TOM

1

N IN 1

COMPOSTA

MARINATED TOMINI

PIEMONTE

This dish

cheeses

is

typical of Chiaverano. Fully 64 of the

officially

recognized

A popular song credits the vinced

many

new

403 original in

Piemonte.

toma cheese with having con-

families with the local

then the treatise published

da Confienza, the

744

local

are produced

of Hannibal’s Carthaginian troops to remain in

Piemonte, creating is

in Italy

Summa

in

Turin

in

women. There

1477 by Pantaleone

Lacticinorum Completa Omnibus

Idonei,

which includes a monograph De caseis that

typical

cheeses produced

in

lists

the

the Valle d’Aosta, the Vale

di

12 dried tomini (see note) 2 tbsp. white 1

dried

chili

pepper, 1

wine vinegar

fipjely

tsp.

chopped

tomato paste

goat or sheep’s milk), enjoy particular fame. Those from the

Canavese area fore being put

1

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

Pepper

Among the specialties of Piemonte, made from cow’s milk (but also from

Lanzo, the Val di Susa, etc.

the tomini cheeses,

which

is

it

differ in

salted,

from the others because the rennet, be-

molds, goes through a further process

in

removing any excess whey. This “aging”

was once performed in special perforated molds. Today, instead, the mass is pressed in a cylindrical form from which it emerges as a form about 10 inches long with a diameter of about

V/2

inches. The cheese

is

then “sliced” to divide

it

into

the individual tomini. Thanks to this salting, these cheeses

can be preserved for longer periods than other types of similar cheeses, provided, of course, they

are kept

in

a cool place.

They can be consumed fresh or dried, on their own or sea-

soned bay

in

leaf,

various ways.

If

desired, add a few garlic cloves, a

a few cloves, or a few peppercorns to the marinade.

Arrange the tomini

in

an earthenware pan and sprinkle

pepper and vinegar.

with a

little

a pan,

add the tomato

Put the

constantly stirring, pour in the olive the tomini, let

making

pletely covered

oil.

pepper

in

and while

Pour

this

over

certain they are fully covered, then

them soak up these

this in a cool place,

chili

paste, then very slowly,

flavors for at least

1

day. Store

making sure the tomini remain com-

by the marinade.

745

chapter EIGHT

AFFOGAGATTI

PUGLIA

GLAZED SWEET ROLLS Although this serts,

Zi 3

A

lb. (1 Zi

cups) unsalted butter 1

6

cup milk

J4

cups sugar

% cups all-purpose flour 5 large eggs

3tsp. baking powder 1

3

A cup

tsp. vanilla extract

confectioners’ sugar

Juice of

1

lemon

% cup dark rum

it

is

the most exquisite of Lecce’s traditional des-

cannot be found

pastry shops. Pastry shops offer

in

traditional desserts only for certain occasions

seek to repeat old ones.

Literally the

and do not

name means

“cat-

drowners.”

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Heat 2 tablespoons of the milk over low heat in a large pot. until

it is

melted.

Remove

Add

the butter

and

the pot from the heat and

in the sugar, the flour, eggs,

baking powder,

%

stir

mix

teaspoon

of the vanilla, and the remaining milk. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead until a smooth

Shape the

them

resulting

dough

dough forms.

into 2-inch rounds. Place

inch apart on a baking sheet and bake them until

1

golden.

glaze: mix the confec1% cups water in a saucepan and Reduce the heat and simmer until the

Meanwhile, prepare the

tioners’ sugar with

bring to a

boil.

mixture forms threads when the spoon

pan (223°F

to

234°F on

a

is lifted

from the

candy thermometer). At

that

point add the lemon juice, rum, and the remaining vanilla,

then simmer for 3 minutes more. Brush

on the warm

rolls,

the heat off but

ANICINI

LIGURIA

this glaze

then put them back in the oven (with

still

warm)

to dry, about

1

0 minutes.

ANISE COOKIES Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks together with the granulated sugar, orange-flower

12 large eggs, separated

Vh cups Zi

granulated sugar

cup orange-flower water 1

tsp. anise

seeds

434 cups all-purpose flour Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

water,

and anise seeds

until pale yellow.

Whip

the egg

whites until frothy and fold into the yolk mixture. Finally,

add the

Grease 2

flour

and continue mixing

biscotti pans, then line

Butter the parchment. Pour the

smooth the

top.

and cut them

until blended.

them with parchment.

dough

into the pans

and

Bake for 20 minutes, then take them out

in small slices.

Increase the oven tem-

perature to 400°F. Arrange the slices on a baking sheet

and return

to the

oven for another 20 minutes. Dust

with confectioners’ sugar.

748

SARDINIAN ARANCIATA SARDA

SARDEGNA

1

ORANGE SLICES This recipe

is

typical of Nuoro.

After carefully scraping away the pith from the orange 1

lb.

orange peels,

preferably from organic fruit

cups honey, preferably from Sardegna 1

peels, cut

them

about 2 inches long and

in strips

Put the peels

wide.

Vs

inch

and add water

in a large pot

to

34

A cup

2

sugar

cup almonds, shelled and ground into paste 1

cover.

Soak the peels for 5 days, changing the water aroma.

until the peels lose their bitter

day, drain

At

the honey.

on

and

carefully until the strips have absorbed

this point

stir until

a sheet of

fifth

of orange

strips

and slowly add the honey,

peel in a pot over low heat

paste and

After the

away the water and put the

stirring often

daily,

add the sugar and the almond Spread out

blended.

aluminum

foil

and

level

it

mixture

this

off with a rolling

pin to the thickness desired (usually about

h

x

inch) Let .

few hours. Then cut with a knife into the

this rest a

shapes and sizes desired.

BABA

CAMPANIA

This recipe

is

typical of Naples.

companied by cherries 34 lb. (1

plus

more

cup) unsalted butter, for greasing the dish 3

A cup

milk

234 tsp. active dry yeast 2 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

more as needed

FOR

BABAS WITH RUM in

6

Baba

is

persons

usually served ac-

pastry cream. Another excellent

is whipped cream and strawberries or just cream and zabaglione with Marsala.

accompaniment

Heat the oven

until

warm

(about 200°F). Use some of

the butter to grease a baba

mold or round high-sided

baking dish. Heat 2 tablespoons of the milk until just

warm. Dissolve the yeast

in the

lukewarm

milk.

Work

it

6 large eggs

into the flour, then turn the mixture out onto a floured 1

34

cups sugar 34

cup rum

surface and knead, adding flour as needed, to create a

smooth

ball

of dough. Place in a bowl, cover with a

kitchen towel, and set this to rise in the barely heated oven.

When

an hour, work the

ond

dough

the

dough has doubled

in the

in the

in size,

about half

remaining butter and the eggs. Put

baba mold and

let

the baba rise a sec-

time. Increase the oven temperature to 375°F, then

place the baba in the oven to bake.

While the baba

bakes prepare the syrup. Dissolve the sugar in water in a saucepan over low heat; simmer gins to

form threads when the spoon

pan (223°F

to

is

it

% cup

until

lifted

it

be-

from the

234°F on a candy thermometer). Remove

749

from the heat and

Remove brown

all

let

cool slightly, then whisk in the rum.

from the oven when

the baba

Using a small

over.

syrup over the

ladle or

VENETO 1

Va

cup

milk, 1

14

tsp. active

dry yeast

warmed, or as needed cups all-purpose flour

% cup sugar Vi lb. (2 sticks)

plus 4 tbsp.

is

golden

warm baba, doing so several times by col-

lecting the syrup that falls to the

BAICOLI

it

spoon pour the

bottom of the baba.

VENETIAN BISCOTTI Dissolve the yeast in 2 tablespoons milk and work the flour;

form

top of

Set aside to

it.

this into a ball let rise

it

into

and inscribe a cross on the 30 minutes.

At the end

of that time knead in the remaining ingredients adding

enough lukewarm milk

to obtain a

smooth dough the

Knead until smooth, then Place them on a baking sheet

consistency of bread dough.

shape into long cylinders.

unsalted butter 3 egg whites, beaten until frothy

and

let

them

Then bake

rise

1

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

hours.

Vz

for 10 minutes.

Remove from

the oven and

Salt

set aside to rest for

At the end of that time

48 hours.

cut the cylinders into thin slices and bake lightly

BARBAJADA

LOMBARDIA

browned and

crisp, 10

chocolate, Vi

chopped

cup brewed espresso coffee Zi

cup milk or cream

until

BARBAJADA This dish

seems

to bear the

name

Neapolitan theatrical impresario 4 oz. (4 squares) bittersweet

them

minutes more.

1841),

who concocted

it

of

inventor, a certain ( 1

778—

at the Caffe dei Virtuosi in Milan’s Via

Manzoni. Rather than a dessert, this

consumed warm

its

named Barbaja is

really a

sweet drink

was once adored by the Milanese. A seems to have been the last Milanese way of preparing it. During the summer

that

place called Samarani cafe this

famous is

for

its

excellent cold.

Combine

the chocolate, coffee, and milk or cream in a

saucepan; whisk

this

over medium-low heat until the

chocolate melts and the mixture begins to foam. Pour into 4 espresso cups

750

and

serve.

ALMOND TART WITH BARCHIGLIA

PUGLIA

CHOCOLATE GLAZE

A cups all-purpose flour,

1

A

plus

more as needed

stick)

unsalted butter

A cup

2

sugar

3 egg yolks

in pieces in the middle.

gether the flour and butter until they

Make

small lumps.

and the egg

salt,

of your hands, fold

For the

filling:

almonds

3 large eggs, separated

1

yolks.

Work

these

wrap

it

in

it

over on

itself,

then repeat. Shape

waxed paper, and

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Butter a round

hour.

cake pan. For the

filling: finely

the egg yolks with the sugar

chop the almonds. Beat

and add the almonds, a

little

salt,

cinnamon, and lemon

pinch ground cinnamon

soft

peaks form and gently fold them into the mixture.

Grated zest of

A cup

lemon

1

pear jelly,

warmed to

liquid

Roll out the line the

pear

it

refrigerate for at

A cup sugar

3

1

least

to-

mass of

Spread out the dough with the palms

flour as needed.

Salt

6 oz. blanched

Work a

smooth dough, adding

ingredients together to form a

into a ball,

become

the well again, adding the sugar to

the center, a pinch of lb. (1

FOR PERSONS

Prepare the short pastry, forming a well with the flour

and putting the butter For the short pastry:

6

dough

to

zest.

about

Beat the egg whites until

of an inch and use

Vie

it

to

bottom of the pan; spread the pastry with the across the bottom then pour in the

jelly

for about

30 minutes.

It is

ready

when

filling.

Bake

a toothpick in-

For the glaze: 1

A cups sugar

comes out

serted in the center

clean.

Let

the chocolate glaze: Dissolve the sugar in 1

oz. (1

square) unsweetened chocolate

and simmer

a saucepan over low heat to

form threads when

a

spoon

is

it

lifted

it

For

cool.

% cup water in until

it

begins

from the pan

(223°F to 234°F on a candy thermometer). Remove

from the heat and in a

let

cool slightly. Melt the chocolate

double boiler and add the sugar syrup.

smooth and pour the warm glaze over the until set,

BENZONE

TOSCANA

about

1

is

Stir until

Let stand

hour.

FRUITCAKE This recipe

tart.

1

typical of the Garfagnana, north of Lucca.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a high-sided baking 3

A

lb.

0A

cups) unsalted butter,

melted and cooled

4 large eggs, beaten 1

%cup soaked

in

% cups sugar

golden raisins,

warm and

water, dried,

lightly

dish.

Beat the eggs with the sugar with a mixer on

medium

slightly

floured

CONTINUED

speed

until pale yellow.

Add the butter; blend well with

a

wooden spoon and add the raisins (flouring the raisins keeps them from sinking to the bottom). Add the lemon and orange

Then

zest.

At

this

point add the candied

gradually add the potato starch and flour (a

at a time),

and,

if

necessary, add a

little

fruit. little

milk to soften the

751

Grated zest of Grated zest of Zi

cup candied

1

fruit,

lemon orange

1

chopped

% cup potato starch 1

dough.

'Place the

for about

dough

30 minutes

in the

(it is

baking dish and bake

always best to test with a

come out clean from the middle

toothpick, which should

of the pastry).

% cups all-purpose flour

Vi

cup milk

(if

necessary)

BERLINGOZZO

TOSCANA

TUSCAN SWEET BREAD This recipe

is

typical of Lamporecchio.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour a baking Za lb.

(Z2 cup) unsalted butter,

melted and cooled

plus

more as needed 2 large eggs 1

Za

cups sugar

2 tsp. baking

Grated zest of

pan. In a bowl,

mix the

flour, eggs, sugar, butter,

baking

slightly

3/3 cups all-purpose flour,

powder, lemon 1

tablespoon

and

zest,

at a

a pinch of

salt.

Add

the milk

time until you obtain a soft dough.

Place the dough in the prepared pan and bake for about

40 minutes

browned.

until lightly

powder 1

lemon

3tbsp. milk, or as needed Salt

BIANCOMANGIARE

CAMPANIA

BLANCMANGE This dessert

is

mange can be Zi

cup cornstarch 2 cups milk

2 scant cups sugar Peel

from

1

lemon

6

FOR persons

best accompanied by cookies. The blanc-

flavored with almond milk.

Dissolve the cornstarch in a pan with the milk, pour the

sugar in slowly, and add the lemon peel (which

be removed) with a

Cook

.

wooden spoon,

pan.

Remove

the

lemon

has thickened, pour

mixture thickens and

until the

spoon when

coats the back of the

it

peel.

it is

removed from the

When

the

blancmange

into a large glass dish or, in keep-

ing with tradition, into small individual molds. as

it

has cooled put

several hours.

it

When

mold

752

does not,

to loosen.

As soon

in the refrigerator to chill for

ready to serve, turn the mold or

molds upside down. The blancmange should easily. If it

will later

over low heat, stirring constantly

slip a knife

slide

out

around the edges of the

BIASCIA

LOMBARDIA

1

CORNMEAL FRUITCAKE This recipe

typical of the Brianza area north of Milan

is

and seems to be 10

bread, diced

oz. stale

6 cups milk 3 tbsp. unsalted butter 3 large eggs

Grated zest of 3 pears, peeled, cored, and

1

is

instead

is

made

Soak the bread

mixture, working

cup plus

1

cornmeal

tbsp. sugar

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

1

sprig rosemary, chopped

oil

LAZIO

Mix

sugar.

3 tbsp. unsalted butter

% cup all-purpose flour 2 large eggs plus Vz tsp. Vz

1

yolk

sugar

lemon

4 cups extra-virgin olive

cup

It

vanilla

sprinkle with

hour

1

Salt

the eggs to the bread

in gently, then

add the lemon

cornmeal, and

cup

1

smooth-

1

tablespoon sugar and rosemary.

Bake

until golden.

JOSEPH’S DAY

FRITTERS This recipe

is

pinch of

typical of

salt;

move from

Rome.

combine

bring

cup cold water,

1

this to a boil

the heat

and add

all

over

the flour in

wooden spoon.

pan back over the heat and

stir

heat.

When

Place the

to obtain a ball that easily

from the heat and in the eggs

though

and yolk one

at a

The dough must be worked recipe to succeed.

When

scattered air bubbles,

a slight

were frying, remove

it

When

let it cool.

the sides

making

the mixture begins

“sizzling” sound, as

it

time and knead the dough. a long time in order for this

the

dough begins

to

produce zest.

Continue working the dough to incorporate these it

in a clean cloth

deep frying pan over medium

dough sides.

in walnut-size pieces.

As they

swell, turn

up

Fry

a

and

Heat the

aside in a cool spot for 45 minutes. in a

it

has cooled, mix

add the sugar and the lemon

two ingredients, then wrap

a

Re-

at once,

all

comes away from the wooden spoon and from of the pan.

and

butter,

medium

stirring vigorously with a

oil,

sugar

them

Add

dough should be about about 1 Vz inches Dot with butter and drizzle with olive oil, then

for frying Vz

milk.

hour. Preheat the oven to

1

a cake pan.

well then transfer to the cake pan,

In a saucepan

Grated zest of

in

hence michelasc.

(milk),

ing the top; the thick.

ST. SAN GIUSEPPE

1

base of stale bread soaked

zest, pears, apples, raisins, flour,

for

Dl

a

in the milk for

or 2tbsp. raisins

tbsp.

In

using mixed flour and cornmeal;

mich (bread) and lacce

350°F and butter

1

BIGNE

made from

of

and chopped

1

made

the Torta paesana or Torta del Michelasc from farther north

lemon

2tbsp. all-purpose flour

1

Torta del Michelasc, of which there are several variations.

the Brianza these are

chopped

3 apples, peeled, cored,

1

combination of two ancient recipes, the

a

meascia, originally from Tremezzo at Lake Como, and the

heat.

few

at a

last

set

it

olive oil

Drop

in the

time on both

the heat to medium-high; as

753

V

soon

good blonde color remove them and

as they are a

them drain on paper towels. Return the heat to medium between each batch. Arrange them in a pyramid

let

on

a serving plate, sprinkle with vanilla sugar,

them with

and cover

a napkin. Serve immediately.

GENOA BISCOTTI

BISCOTTI ALLA GENOVESE

LIGURIA

This recipe

is

typical of Genoa.

Dissolve the yeast in 2 tablespoons lukewarm water and 2)4 tsp. active dry yeast 3

%

cup

Z3 cups

(1 Vi

combine

all-purpose flour

sticks) unsalted butter 1

Vz

14

it

rise for a

cups sugar

Knead

cup fennel seeds

Shape

flour as necessary to obtain

this into a ball

and

set

it

aside to

few hours, covered with a clean dishcloth.

the remaining flour with the butter, sugar, fennel

seeds, salt to taste,

3 tbsp. milk, or as needed

much

with as

a soft dough.

and a

milk to form a smooth

little

dough. Combine the two doughs, knead together, and

Salt

set

them

Form

aside to rise for

the

dough

ing sheet, and

them

let

Make

oven to 3 5 CPF. the

dough about

30 minutes and

Butter a baking sheet.

hour.

1

into large loaves, put rise for

1

them on

the bak-

Preheat the

hour.

long shallow crosswise cuts in

inch apart. Bake the loaves for about

1

let

them cool

to just

warm

(do not turn

off the oven). Separate the loaves into biscotti by pleting the cuts already

them on for a

the baking sheet

PUGLIA

1

in the surface.

and return them

second baking of about

browned and

BISCOTTI CASERECCI

made 1

to the

comPlace

oven

5 minutes, or until lightly

crisp.

HOME-STYLE BISCOTTI Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Combine

the ingredients ex-

cept the reserved egg yolk to obtain a soft dough, adding 6 2/s cups all-purpose flour 2 cups sugar 4 large eggs, Vi

1

yolk reserved

cup extra-virgin 1

Vi tbsp.

Grated zest of 1

1

lemon

almonds, boiled, and lightly roasted

34 lbs.

shelled,

A few tbsp. milk

754

olive oil

baking powder

(if

necessary)

milk by the tablespoon loaf

and place

yolk and brush

about

1

it it

on

a

if

necessary.

over the

5 minutes.

minutes more until

loaf.

Bake

Remove from

loaf into large slices.

Shape

this into a

baking sheet. Beat the reserved until light golden,

the oven

and cut the

Return these to the oven for 15

crisp.

BISCOTTI D

MANDORLA

I

ABRUZZO

ALMOND

BISCOTTI

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

powder, and a pinch of 4 cups all-purpose flour 2/3 cups sugar 1

baking powder

tsp.

6 large eggs

2/3 cups blanched almonds Salt

the eggs to

form

a

Dl

MOIANO

CAMPANIA cup (4tbsp.) unsalted butter 2 cups all-purpose flour

% cup sugar % tsp.

baking powder 2 large

Grated zest of

1

eggs

mixing bowl. Blend in

then shape the dough into a cylinder,

in the

almonds,

like a baguette.

Place on a baking sheet and bake until the surface

Remove from

brown, about 20 minutes. cut crosswise into

slices.

is

the oven

light

and

Place these, without overlap-

ping, on the baking sheet. Put back in the oven for their until crisp,

about 20 minutes.

MOIANO BISCOTTI

6

FOR persons

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a baking sheet. the flour, sugar, baking powder,

Va

the flour, sugar, baking

smooth dough. Knead

second baking. Bake

BISCOTTI

Mix

salt in a

1

mixing bowl. Blend

make if

a soft,

necessary.

and

Form

and lemon

in the butter, eggs,

compact dough, adding into a log.

a

little

zest to

warm

water

Slice this into biscotti

and arrange them on the baking sheet and bake an hour

Mix

a pinch of salt in a

for half

until golden.

lemon Salt

BISCOTTINI

Dl

PROSTO

LOMBARDIA

BISCOTTI This recipe

biscotm

1

lb.

is

FROM PROSTO

typical of Sondrio.

is still

6 2A cups all-purpose flour

alongside the parish church.

2 cups sugar

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

(4 sticks)

unsalted butter

make

a

Combine

smooth dough, then shape

IVz inches in diameter. Va

The complete recipe for the

the secret of the owners of the mill at Prosto,

the ingredients to

into cylinders about

Cut these

into slices about

inch thick. Place on a baking sheet and bake about 10

minutes until golden.

755

V

#

BISCOTTO FERRARESE

1

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

FERRARA BISCOTTI Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour a baking sheet.

Beat the yolks and sugar with a mixer on Unsalted butter 3

1

/)

until pale yellow,

cups all-purpose flour

and

lightly floured surface

2 cups sugar 1

stir in

the

lemon

this in small pieces, roll

lemon

them

into

“S” shapes.

roll it into

them

medium speed

zest

and

flour

and

Put the dough on a

blend to obtain a very soft dough.

15 egg yolks

Grated zest of

then

a long cylinder.

Cut

into small ropes, then shape

Arrange the cookies on the bak-

ing sheet, leaving 2 inches between them, and bake for

about 40 minutes

PIEMONTE

This recipe

mange 1

roll,

Zi

cup)

lb. (1

slightly

V2 cup sugar, and

move

!4

cup

Blend these ingredients

butter.

the

salt,

well,

boil.

Re-

pan from the heat and pour the mixture

into a

baking dish. Bake for about 20 minutes, until the mix-

Salt

ture thickens.

Caramelize a ring mold as

on page 791 (wear oven

mitts

using the remaining sugar. the caramelized ring for a few hours.

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

the thickener

then put them into a saucepan and heat to a

cooled

BOSILAN

is

the remaining milk, cheese, amaretti, a pinch of

cup sugar

stick) unsalted butter,

melted and

and differs from the blancthat bread

Beat the eggs and add them to the blender along with

6 amaretti, finely ground

A

in

milk, squeeze dry, then pulse a few times in a blender.

cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1

typical of Ivrea

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Soften the bread in

2 cups milk 4 large eggs 'A

is

recipe on page 752

here, not cornstarch.

without crust (about

golden brown.

BLANCMANGE WITH AMARETTI

BLANC MANGER

The bread of

until

1

if

is

metal),

Pour the baked custard

mold and put

Turn out

in the recipe

your mold

it

into

in the refrigerator

the pudding

and serve

cold.

RING CAKE This cake

is

called Bosilan in almost

but also Bissolan

in

all

of the area of

the area near Piacenza.

In

Parma,

Reggio-Emilia

is made without the central hole and is called Bucellato, in Modena Bensone. The result should be a soft and delicate dough, tasty, and in a shape somewhat reminiscent of the more refined and recent Pandoro of Verona. About !4 cup of it

a dry liquor

756

such as dry sherry can be added to the dough

if

3 /a cups all-purpose flour

cup

Vz

milk, 1

4

lukewarm

14.cups sugar

melted (or

oz. lard,

1

stick

unsalted butter)

Grated zest of 2 large eggs (or

1

lerrton

desired. A similar recipe

name

Shape the warmed),

tsp. active dry yeast

2

sugar

vanilla

(if

(if

into

using butter instead,

a pinch of salt,

of this to obtain a

in the yeast

desired)

and the lemon

the milk,

it

should be

it

zest.

Beat the

and

set

dough

it

that

is

not overly

aside to rest until

soft.

Blend

Blend

has doubled in

it

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a round cake

size. Salt

Veneto and goes by the

eggs until blended, then add those to the flour. all

Sugar or

in

and pour

flour into a well

sugar, melted lard

egg plus 3 yolks)

1

made

is

Ciambella.

pan and the outside of a small ovenproof bowl. Add the

dough

to the pan, to

form

a ring,

in the center to maintain the hole.

Dust the surface with sugar or

and place the bowl

Bake

for

45 minutes.

vanilla sugar before serv-

ing, if desired.

BOSSOLA

LOMBARDIA

YANILLA RING CAKE This

is

a homemade-style ring cake

similar to the Bussolano of Zz

cup milk

Vz vanilla

bean

2 tsp. active dry yeast Ya lb. (1 stick)

plus 6 tbsp.

unsalted butter, softened

h cups

2 1

1

Va

all-purpose flour

cups potato starch

4 large eggs, separated 1

Ya

cups sugar

Grated zest of

1

from the area of Brescia,

Cremona and Mantua. The recipe

can be enriched with the addition of raisins and candied fruit.

Heat the milk

just to a boil

remove the pan from the

and add the

heat.

Cover and

minutes, then remove the vanilla bean.

vanilla bean;

let

Add

stand for 30 the yeast.

Butter a tube pan. Sift together the flour and potato starch, then

whisk the egg whites

until frothy.

softened butter with the sugar until yolks

and flour-starch mixture.

fully,

add the grated lemon

lemon

then add

the

this

mixture to

whipped egg whites and

pour into the buttered tube pan. 1

Whip

then add the

Mix this together care-

zest,

the milk mixture. Fold in the

fluffy,

Set

it

aside to rise for

hour. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Bake for about 40

minutes, until golden.

BOSTRENGO

MARCHE

BAKED RICE PUDDING WITH CHOCOLATE Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Cook

the rice in salted water

(or milk) to cover just until al dente. 2/2 cups white rice

CONTINUED

Meanwhile com-

bine the sugar (or honey), eggs, orange and lemon zests, raisins

and pine

nuts, chocolate (or cocoa), coffee,

and

757

r

# 1

% cups sugar (or honey) 3 large eggs

Grated zest of

1

1

A

orange

1

Grated zest of

1

lemon

cups mixed raisins and pine nuts

'A

figs in a

Pour

saucepan.

in the

well, heating if necessary to

Combine

rice.

pan and bake crust.

this

it

(or alchermes).

well;

Mix

add the drained

thoroughly then put in a baking

for about

Remove from

sliced, sprinkled

rum

blend

1

hour, or until

the oven,

it

forms a golden

let it cool,

and serve

with confectioners’ sugar.

cups grated chocolate or cocoa powder

1

6

oz.

cup strong black coffee

dried

2 tbsp.

chopped

figs, finely

rum

(or alchermes,

see note, page 786) Confectioners’ sugar Salt

BRICCIOLANI

PIEMONTE

SPICED SHORTBREAD This recipe

is

typical of Vercelli.

Mix the flour with the 3’/3

cups all-purpose flour cup sugar

1

Pinch ground cinnamon Pinch ground cloves Pinch grated nutmeg 'A lb. (Vi

ter

sugar and the spices.

and knead, working

it

until a

Refrigerate for at least 6 hours.

Preheat the oven to

400°F. Butter a baking sheet and dust the

dough

Add the but-

smooth dough forms.

it

with flour.

to a thickness of about Vs inch.

Roll

Cut grooves

across the surface using a pastry wheel or a serrated bread

cup) plus 2 tbsp.

knife. unsalted butter

Cut

the

dough

into rectangles about

and arrange on the pan.

by 3 inches

1

Bake for about 10 minutes,

until golden.

BROTIE

PIEMONTE 5 large eggs

A A

lb. (1

cup rum

stick) plus 6 tbsp.

FOR 6 TO 7 PERSONS

RUM FRITTERS This recipe

is

typical of the Val Formazza.

Beat the eggs in a

medium bowl with a mixer on medium

speed

then add the rum, butter, flour, and

until pale,

baking powder; work to obtain a

this together for at least

compact dough.

1

5 minutes

Heat several inches of

oil

unsalted butter, melted

in a

deep saucepan. Shape the dough into

balls

and

fry

5 cups all-purpose flour 2 tsp. baking

powder

them sugar.

Extra-virgin olive

oil,

for frying

Sugar, for dusting

758

until golden.

Drain on paper towels and dust with

j

BRUTTI

E

BUONI

VENETO

1

UGLY AND GOOD COOKIES Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a baking sheet.

Combine 2tbsp. unsalted butter Zz

cup ground dry biscuits (zwieback) Zz

tbsp.

egg plus

Zi

smooth dough. Shape

a

this into long, thin

inch in diameter and 14 inches long.

1

Sprinkle the cylinders with flour and arrange

on the baking

sheet.

While they are

ground cinnamon 1

Zi

cup sugar

and knead them together

the ingredients

all

form

cylinders about

cup all-purpose flour, plus more as needed Zi

1

well to

Bake

until they are

warm

still

cut

them

golden brown.

them diagonally

into

2-inch lengths. 1

yolk

cup coarsely chopped almonds

cup chopped candied orange peel

UGLY BUT GOOD BRUTTI MA BUONI

PIEMONTE

MACAROONS This recipe

is

Unsalted butter

3%

tbsp.

if

stored

in airtight

containers.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a baking sheet. Toast the

cups almonds

almonds on an ungreased baking sheet

12 egg whites

browned, then

2 cups sugar 1

Borgomanero. These can be pre-

typical of

served for a while

ground cinnamon

VStsp. vanilla extract

finely

perature to 300°F.

it

almonds, sugar, cinnamon, and va-

Transfer the mixture to a saucepan and put

over very low heat, stirring constantly, for about 30 min-

Use

utes, or until the liquid has evaporated.

to

Bake about 40 minutes,

Remove from

TOSCANA

the oven

them

until slightly

and

let

a roundish shape.

cracked and dry.

cool before serving.

LUCCA RING CAKE This cake has been popular

in

Lucca for quite a while: food

writer Waverley Root reports a reference to iZz cups all-purpose plus

flour,

more as needed 3

A cup sugar CONTINUED

a tablespoon

scoop up lumps of the mixture, then place them on the

buttered baking sheet and give

BUCCELLATO

lightly

Whip the egg whites until opaque and

frothy, then stir in the nilla extract.

until

chop them. Reduce the oven tem-

dating back to 1485.

It

tastes wonderful

it

in

that city

when dipped

in

white wine.

Mix the flour, sugar, pinch of salt. Knead

1

egg, butter, milk,

to obtain a soft

and yeast with a

dough, then knead

759

2 large eggs

4tbsp. unsalted butter,

melted and

cup milk

Yi

2

'A

!

dissolved 34

cooled

slightly

tsp. active dry yeast,

in

cup

1

warm water

tbsp.

raisins, softened in

warm water and

drained

2 tsp. anise seeds

and anise

in the raisins ball,

in a

a

cover

it

seeds.

with a cloth, and

warm spot.

After the

round cake on a baking

along

its full

Shape the dough let it rise

dough has

sheet,

risen,

making

length with a knife. Let

for a

into a

few hours

shape

it

into

a shallow incision

it

rest for

another

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Beat the remaining

hour.

egg and brush on the dough. Bake for

1

hour. Serve

lukewarm.

Salt

BUDINO

D

I

LIMONE SICILIA

LEMON PUDDING Rub the up

4

oz.

sugar cubes

Peel of 3 ripe lemons, 1

34

in

strips

cups sugar

6 tbsp. cornstarch

Lemon

leaves, for garnish

sugar cubes on the lemon peels so they will soak

Meanwhile, heat 4 cups

the juice the peels secrete.

water in a pot, add the sugar and cornstarch, and bring to a boil at

low heat,

cream).

dipped 1

Still stirring,

pour

in water then drained,

(it

the sugar

should become a dense

mold

into a

and

Cover the serving

night.

Add

stirring constantly.

cubes, then continue cooking

that has

been

refrigerated for at least

plate with

lemon

leaves,

then turn the pudding out of the mold onto the plate.

BUDINO

D

I

NOCI

ALTO ADIGE

WALNUT PUDDING Preheat the oven to 325°F. Butter pudding molds or

ramekins and sprinkle them with breadcrumbs. Cream 34 lb. (34

cup) unsalted butter,

the butter and sugar together, then

mix

in the walnuts

softened

and egg 34

yolks.

cup breadcrumbs

A cup sugar

the

rolls,

Whisk

the egg whites until

stiff,

then add

then the egg whites, to the mixture and com-

2

Pour the mixture

bine. 34

into the molds, then place

them

cup walnuts, chopped in a baking

pan

large

enough

to hold

them with

1

inch of

4 large eggs, separated

space around each one. Place the pan on the oven rack, 3 rolls without crust,

crumbled and soaked

in

milk

then 1

fill

hour.

the

pan halfway with

When

set,

water.

Bake

until set,

puddings, then turn the puddings out on a

760

about

run a knife around the edges of the plate.

BUDINO

RICE PUDDING

RISO

Dl

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA %

Put the

cuff rice

2 cups milk 4 tbsp. 04 cup) unsalted butter,

Zt

Yt V3

and heat

rice,

discard the water, and combine the rice with the

heat.

Cook,

utes,

by which time the

stirring,

comes

it

on low

milk.

thick,

orange

cup golden raisins

remove

After about 40 min-

heat.

rice

to a boil drain the

should be becoming tender let it cool.

zest, raisins, citron,

and sugar.

Put the

add the rum,

in the butter, then

Add

1

remaining whites.

egg and 2

Preheat the

with semolina flour or breadcrumbs. Whip the remaining

egg whites until soft peaks form, add them to the rice

Semolina flour (or breadcrumbs)

mixture, and pour the mixture into the mold, smoothing

Salt

Place the

the top. to hold

it

with

on the oven Bake

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

from the heat and

oven to 350°F. Grease a baking dish with butter and dust

% cup sugar

SEMOLINO

it

bowl and mix

yolks, setting aside the

3 large eggs, 2 separated

Dl

in water to cover

medium

rice in a

orange

cup chopped citron

BUDINO

When

over

and

cup rum 1

1

little salt

pieces

in

Grated zest of

and a

rice

I

for

1

mold

baking pan large enough

in a

inch of space on

rack, then

45 minutes or

fill

all sides.

Place the pan

pan halfway with

the

water.

until set.

FOR 6 TO 9 PERSONS

SEMOLINA PUDDING Serve this with raspberry sauce.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a Bundt pan with but4 tbsp.

(14

cup) unsalted butter,

%cup plus

coarse semolina,

more

for the

pan

2 cups milk Vi vanilla

A cup

2

Grated zest of

1

bean

sugar

small orange

3 large eggs, 2 separated Zi

cup chopped citron 2 tbsp.

ter

and dust it with semolina. Pour the milk

into a sauce-

pieces

in

cognac Salt

pan with the vanilla bean. Add

a

little salt

and heat. When

the milk boils pour in the semolina in a steady stream, stirring, until the

mixture becomes smooth.

After a

few minutes, add the sugar and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove from

the heat and add the orange zest

and butter. Remove the vanilla bean. Then egg and 2 yolks, one

at a time.

Add

and the cognac. Beat the egg whites into the mixture

and pour the

the

1

whole

chopped

citron

until

stir in

stiff,

batter into the

then fold

Bundt pan.

Place the Bundt pan in a baking pan large enough to

hold

it

with

1

inch of space on

the oven rack, then for

1

hour or

fill

until set.

the

all

sides. Place the

pan on

pan halfway with water. Bake

Serve lukewarm.

761

*

#

BUDINO TIPICO:

ROSADA BIANCA FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

ROSE PUDDING The highly popular rosada is enjoyed most of the

6 large eggs 6 tbsp. sugar z

cup ground almonds

/3

tbsp. rose water

1

A tsp. vanilla Grated zest of

2%

extract 1

lemon

cups milk

BUNET

PIEMONTE

ill,

by the elderly,

all

and children.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Beat the eggs, add the sugar,

almonds, rose water, vanilla extract, and lemon

add the

Pour the mixture

milk.

mold, smoothing the top.

pan

large

sides.

enough

to hold

into a large

Place the it

with

mold

set,

baking

in a

inch of space on

1

Place the pan on the oven rack, then

halfway with water. Bake until

and

zest,

ovenproof

about

1

all

pan

the

fill

hour.

AMARETTI PUDDING This recipe

typical of Asti.

is

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bring the milk to a boil in a 4 cups milk

A cup

2

crumbled ladyfingers

A cup

2

crumbled amaretti 1

cup black coffee 4 tbsp. Marsala

4 tbsp.

pot, then take

ladyfingers

'A

mixture

3/2 tbsp. cocoa

powder

is

creamy.

add the

the

coffee,

1 % cups sugar, medium speed until the

In another bowl beat

Then

incorporate the milk mixture a

Caramelize a pudding mold

at a time, stirring well.

with the remaining sugar (see page 791), then pour the

mixture into the mold. Place the mold in a baking pan

5 large eggs

large

enough

to hold

with

it

1

inch of space on

Place the pan on the oven rack, then

with water. Bake until

and

refrigerate for a

and serve

at

room

set, for

30

to

fill

the

all

sides.

pan halfway Cool

40 minutes.

few hours. Turn

it

out on a plate

temperature.

BUSECCHINA

CHESTNUTS WITH CREAM

LOMBARDIA

A variation can be added to this easy dessert: when the chestnuts are cooked, drain

1

Add

let it cool.

to the milk; then

cocoa, and eggs with a mixer on

rum

cups plus 2 tbsp. sugar

and

off the heat

Marsala, and rum.

little 1

it

and amaretti

lb.

dried chestnuts

A cup dry white wine A cup sweet wine

(optional) (optional)

2 cups heavy

cream

them

a bowl

in

sweet white wine, such as a Moscato.

much

of the

and cover them with Let

them absorb as

wine as possible, then arrange them

in

cups, as

indicated.

Soak the chestnuts

in

lukewarm water overnight.

The

next day drain them, rinse them in running water, clean

them with

762

a cloth or brush to

remove any remaining

film.

and rinse again.

Put the chestnuts

water to just cover them, and cook

have absorbed

all

in a pan, at

add enough

low heat

you want

to avoid breaking them. (If

wine or sweet wine do not do so

add dry white

to

until the chestnuts are

Meanwhile, whip the cream to

half cooked.)

until they

the liquid, never letting the liquid boil,

soft peaks.

When cooked put the chestnuts in cups, spoon any of their own

CAFFE ALLE MANDORLE

VALLE D'AOSTA

sweet sauce over them, then add whipped cream.

ALMOND COFFEE Serve

in

large cups accompanied by breadsticks or biscotti.

Melt the butter 2tbsp. unsalted butter 4tbsp. ground almonds 4 cups

brewed coffee

CAGGIUNITTI

MOLISE

almonds

For the dough:

plus

more as needed

into the coffee

the heat before

copper pan over medium-low

Pour the hot

coffee, taking if off

Pour into coffee cups and

boils.

it

and reheat the

serve.

SWEET RAVIOLI Some people use chickpeas

Use 3 cups all-purpose flour,

in a small

heat and saute the almonds until golden.

instead of chestnuts.

the flour and eggs to prepare a pasta

on page

recipe

1

dough

as in the

adding the butter and sugar with the

0,

eggs and using milk as needed in place of the water.* Set the

dough

aside to rest for about

hour, then knead

1

2 large eggs

in the

Crush the chestnuts; put them

baking powder.

3 oz. (6tbsp.) unsalted butter

A cup

2

Vi

1

sugar

milk, or as

needed

tbsp. baking

powder

cup

through a sieve and mix the resulting puree in a bowl with the chocolate pieces, candied

lemon

At

zest.

a sheet (see Salt

this

point

page 212), and cut

2 inches wide. Spoon For the Zi lb.

filling:

chestnuts, shelled,

parboiled, and peeled

4

oz. (4

squares) chocolate, finely

strips

and

then

roll

join the

parts olive eral inches.

up the

filling

strips

fruit,

almonds, and

out the dough to form

roll

it

in long strips

down

about

the centers of the

of dough

like

small salami

ends to form doughnut shapes. Heat equal

oil

and

lard in a

Fry the

saucepan

ravioli until

to a

depth of sev-

golden brown, drain on

chopped

paper towels, and serve hot. Vi

cup chopped candied Vi 1

fruit

cup chopped almonds tsp. grated

lemon zest

For frying: Extra-virgin olive

oil

Lard

763

CALZONCELLI

BASILICATA

CAL Z ONCE LLI Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a baking sheet with olive

Olive

oil

3/3 cups all-purpose flour 1

Vi

cups sugar

3 large eggs 6 oz. lard 1

1

/i

A cups

2

chestnuts

cups bittersweet chocolate

Combine

oil.

knead

it

the flour, sugar, eggs,

thoroughly, making the

mogeneous.

Let

out a sheet about cutter, cut

it

rest for

it

Vs

to

make

place

on the baking

Using a

Chop a filling

the center of each disk.

lard

about 20 minutes, then

inch thick.

into disks.

and chocolate

and

and

dough smooth and horoll

glass or cookie

together the chestnuts

and place lumps of it

at

Fold over to form half-moons,

sheet,

and bake

until golden,

about

10 minutes.

CALZONI

D

I

CASTAGNE

BASILICATA

CHESTNUT CALZONI This recipe

is

For the

%

filling:

cups dried chickpeas 2 lbs. chestnuts

Pinch ground cinnamon

A cup semisweet chocolate chips 2 A cup sugar

2

1

tbsp. herb-infused liqueur,

such as anisette or alchermes (see note, page 786)

For the dough:

1

U cups sugar lOoz. lard 9 large eggs

Sweet white wine

(or Marsala),

as needed Salt

For frying: Lard

764

in

place of the chickpeas and honey

place of the sugar to sweeten the

Boil the chickpeas

is

in

filling.

and chestnuts, peel them, and remove

Combine them and pass them through a sieve, reducing them to a puree, then mix in the cinnaUse the flour to mon, chocolate, sugar, and liqueur. any inner

make

a

film.

dough

as in the recipe

on page

10,

adding the

sugar and lard with the eggs, and using wine in place of the water as needed to obtain an elastic and

dough.

6 2A cups all-purpose flour

FOR PERSONS

typical of Melfi. In Abruzzo, a similar recipe

made using almonds

1

10

Roll out the

note, page 212)

Arrange the close,

and

pan and

dough

and cut the

filling

to

Vie

resulting sheet into squares.

on the squares,

seal the edges.

compact

of an inch thick (see

Heat

fry until golden. Drain

1

fold

them over

to

inch of lard in a sauce-

on paper

towels.

LOCAL TRADITION

CANASTRELLI OF PIEMONTE This recipe

is

typical of

Borgofranco

d’lvrea. Flour, butter, eggs, chocolate, hazelnuts,

cognac, lemon zest, and Marsala are mixed together into a dough, which overnight. Then the

dough

is

shaped

into balls the size of hazelnuts

a time in the special iron used for cialde (a type of wafer).

We

is

then rested

and placed 4 or

5 at

are told the canastrelli

are cooked for the length of time "for an Ave Maria,” then flipped to cook on the other side. In Molise, larger versions olive oil in place of butter

about the size of walnuts, called cancelle, are made using

and flavored with lemon zest and anise or white wine.

SUGAR COOKIES

CANESTRELLI

LIGURIA

This recipe

meant /i lb. (1

chopped and softened

A cup

Z

1

1

typical of Torriglia di Genova. Canestrelli are

them get too dark when

baking.

cup) plus 2 tbsp. unsalted

butter,

is

to be pale, so do not let

sugar

egg, separated

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Cream

sugar until pale, then

the egg yolk. Gradually

in the flour to

% cups all-purpose flour all

make

stir in

a

the butter with the

On

of the flour) Beat the egg white until frothy. .

Confectioners’ sugar

floured surface, with a floured rolling pin,

dough

to

form

stir

smooth dough (you may not use

a sheet about Vz inch thick.

Cut

a

out the

roll

this into

cookies with a cookie cutter with a scalloped edge. Place the cookies white.

Bake

on

a baking sheet

until pale golden,

and brush them with egg about 20 minutes.

with confectioners’ sugar while

them again when

CANNOLI RIPIENI SICILIA

1

still

Dust

warm, then dust

cool.

FILLED CANNOLI Cassata (see page 768) and cannoli are the two traditional products of Sicilian pastry making. Once associated with the

,

|

period of Carnival, cannoli can be found today at any time of the year in

any respectable bakery. The average cannoli

are also similar

in

terms of

size; in

the area of Palermo, how-

765

j

^

14

1

cups fresh ricotta

cup sugar

Zi

1

ger. At the other

tbsp. vanilla extract

shells should not be filled until shortly before serving. After

ground cinnamon

cup diced candied

a

few hours they soften and lose the crunchiness that

of their appeal, being fruit

that 14 1

fin-

end are those from Piana degli Albanesi,

which can reach large sizes that are quite unusual. The

14 tsp.

Zi

one can find tiny cannulicchi hardly bigger than a

ever,

A few tbsp. milk

is

is

part

one aspect of the exquisite harmony

a cannoli.

cup bittersweet chocolate chips

recipe cannoli shells (see below)

Using a fork blend the

ricotta

and

For the garnish:

Ground pistachios Confectioners' sugar

sugar. Stir in the milk

make

a tablespoon at a time, just to

a

smooth mixture.

Add the vanilla extract and cinnamon, then pass the result through a sieve. Mix in the candied fruit and chocolate Transfer the mixture to a pastry bag with a large

chips.

(Vi-inch) tip attached or without a

into

1

end of the

filling into

shell until

the other end to

fill

tip.

halfway

it is

Pipe the filled,

completely.

filling

then pipe

Dust the ends

with pistachios and sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar.

CANNOLI

CALABRIA

CANNOLI SHELLS Cannoli molds are metal tubes usually

made

of

aluminum or

stainless steel that are used to shape the cannoli during fry1

% cups all-purpose flour 1

34

tbsp. sugar

cup white wine

Olive

oil,

14

for frying

cup honey Salt

ing.

The standard

long)

is

of the

oil

carefully

wrap

Z%

it

it

does not get too hot

should hover around 350°F.

the flour, sugar, a pinch of

tain a

inch thick by 5Vz inches

1

between batches so

and burn the dough;

Mix

mold (about

size

widely available. Be sure to regulate the temperature

smooth, firm dough.

salt,

Form

in a clean kitchen towel,

and the wine

the

and

dough

let it rest

to ob-

into a ball,

for 2 hours.

a floured surface to form a sheet

Roll out the

dough on

inch thick.

Divide this sheet into large (6-inch) squares.

Heat several inches of olive

oil in

a

wide saucepan. Grease

cannoli molds (see note, or use lightly floured lengths 1 -inch dowel) Working in batches, wrap squares of dough around the molds, pressing the overlap together to

of

.

seal (so

it

does not

come

apart while frying). Fry until

golden brown and crispy, turning as necessary.

on paper dle

towels,

and when they are cool enough

remove the mold

ing dough.

(or dowel)

.

Drain to han-

Repeat with the remain-

Meanwhile, heat the honey and 2 tablespoons

water over low heat until a thin syrup forms; brush the fried shells with the mixture

766

and

let

stand until dry.

CANTUCCI OR BISCOTTINI

TOSCANA

ALMOND This recipe

is

BISCOTTI

2

PERSONS

10

typical of Prato.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Toast the almonds until fra1

'A

cups almonds

Unsalted butter

grant and lighdy golden, then chop them. Leave the oven on, grease a baking sheet with butter, and sprinkle

3 Zi cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed

>$tsp. baking

powder

2 cups sugar 1

tsp. grated

orange zest

Vfctsp. vanilla extract

4 large eggs, beaten Salt

CARTELLATE

PUGLIA

Combine

flour.

and orange

zest. Stir in the vanilla

Vi

cup dry white wine

% cup extra-virgin olive plus

more

and

eggs.

it

with

sugar,

salt,

Knead in the

Pat out the dough to form long,

almonds.

loaves

flat

about 3 inches wide. Place them on the baking sheet and

bake about

1

Remove from

5 minutes.

the “fingers” in diagonal slices

V2 inch

them

crisp,

and bake unti

to the sheet

the oven

and cut

thick.

Return

about 25 minutes.

WINE PINWHEELS One variation

is

the honey with 3/3 cups all-purpose flour

the flour, baking powder,

it

to use 3 cups honey instead of vin cotto. Heat 1

cup water to make a thin syrup and

drizzle

over the cartellate. They can also be dusted with the ani-

cini.

These are a specialty of the Christmas season. They stay

good for several weeks. oil,

for frying

4 cups vin cotto (see note, page 818) Anicini (candy-coated fennel seeds) Salt

Use

make

the flour to

dough

a

as in the recipe

page 10, using the wine and 2A cup the eggs. Let the to

form

and

1

dough

a thin sheet

inch wide.

rest

1

and cut

Make

olive oil in place

this into strips

a cut halfway

of

dough

Roll out the

hour.

on

6 inches long

through the

strips

every inch or so, alternating sides. Roll the strips into loose spirals.

in a

Cover them loosely and

The

overnight.

saucepan and fry the pinwheels

on paper slightly,

slotted

set

them out to dry

next day heat several inches of olive

towels.

Heat the vin

until golden.

cotto in a

pan

to thin

then dip in the pinwheels; remove them with a

spoon and

let

the excess drip back into the pan.

Arrange on a serving plate and dust with Let

oil

Drain

stand,

covered,

2

days

before

eating

anicini.

them.

A

RICOTTA TART

CASCI ATELL

LAZIO

This recipe

is

typical of

Maenza.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a round baking pan Extra-virgin olive 1

oil

with olive

A cups all-purpose flour 1

lb.

ricotta

4 large eggs rests, 1

tsp.

ground cinnamon

cup cognac or other aromatic liquor

Grated zest of

1

flour

it

lightly.

and lemon

make

pastry

and

little

egg,

to

A

and

(or other liquor),

2tbsp. sugar 1

oil

Combine

with 2 of the eggs, sugar, cinnamon, a

a

cognac mixture

page 773) with the

flour,

dough

to line the baking pan.

Roll out the remaining

in the ricotta mixture.

dough and use

Use

Salt

(see

this

water. Roll out two thirds of the

form a disk and use the disk

Pour

lemon

dough

While

zest.

the ricotta

little salt,

a pastry wheel to cut

into /z-inch strips.

it

these strips to create a latticework covering for the

filling.

Beat the remaining egg and brush

Bake for 20 minutes, or

try strips.

it

over the pas-

until the surface

turns golden.

CASSATA FROM NAPLES

CASSATA NAPOLETANA

CAMPANIA

Using the

tines of a fork

work the

ricotta together with

the sugar, adding the Maraschino or other liqueur. Pass 2 lbs. ricotta

this

2 cups sugar

mixture through a

ture.

2 tbsp. Maraschino (or other

sieve.

Set aside half of this mix-

Blend the other half with the chocolate chips and

the candied

fruit.

Slice the

sponge cake into two

layers.

liqueur)

Hollow out some of the cake from the cut

A cup chocolate chips 3 1

A cups chopped candied plus 1

two

sides of the

halves. Fill these hollows with the ricotta-chocolate

fruit,

mixture and re-form the cake.

more as needed

Top with

portion of the ricotta mixture (that

sponge cake (see page 843)

10-inch

is,

olate chips). Sprinkle the cake with with fruit.

Let the cake

chill in

the remaining

without the choc-

more candied

the refrigerator a few hours

before serving.

CASSATA SICILIANA SICILIA

1

CASSATA FROM SICILIA Cassata

is

the traditional Sicilian dessert for Easter. The

name seems to be

derived from the Arabian quas’at, although

there are two different meanings: a round bowl

ence to the shape) or a cheesecake.

In

monastery of Valverde was famous for

768

(in refer-

the past, Palermo’s its

cassata. The an-

2 lbs. ricotta 2 cups sugar Zi

cup Maraschino liqueur (or other sweet liqueur)

% cup chocolate chips 10-inch-round sponge cake

1

cient tradition of the cassata in Sicilia

document from the Synod the cassata as being at

among

is

supported by a

Mazara (1575), which refers

of

to

the sweets “unfailingly present

all festivities.”

Put the

ricotta in a

bowl and work

Mara-

in the sugar,

schino or other liqueur, and chocolate chips.

Slice the

(see page 843)

sponge cake crosswise

to

form three

each about

disks,

2 tbsp. apricot preserves,

heated

until

melted

Sugar glaze (made with confectioners' sugar mixed with just

enough water to make spreadable,

Yz

Line a cake pan with wax paper; coat the

inch thick.

paper lightly with some of the apricot preserves as

desired)

% cup chopped candied fruit

will act

.

bottom of the pan;

slice

another disk into

strips,

colored green with pistachio, if

(it

an adhesive) Put one of the disks of sponge cake in the

-inch pieces and use

those into

1

the pan.

Pour

make

it

cake.

level,

them

in the ricotta mixture,

then cut

to line the sides of

smooth the top

to

and cover with the remaining disk of sponge

Turn the cake wax paper. Reheat and use them to coat the

Refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

out on a plate; remove and discard the the remaining apricot preserves

Cover the top and

sides of the cake.

glaze, decorate with candied fruit,

frigerator for at least another

CASSATINE RIPIENE SICILIA

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Grease two sheet pans with

tablespoon as needed. Set aside while making the

1

Va

cups sugar

Grind the almonds

273 cups sugar

unsweetened cocoa powder ground cinnamon

Grated zest of

1

lemon

1

14

egg white

cups confectioners’ sugar 1

tsp.

in a mortar,

into the sugar, adding a

Add the

little

filling.

adding A teaspoon l

oil.

Work them

water to obtain a somewhat

cocoa, cinnamon, and lemon zest.

Divide the dough in half and

lemon juice

roll

each piece out to form

a thin, rectangular sheet. Arrange teaspoons of the al-

mond

filling in

regularly spaced rows along one sheet of

dough; cover with the other sheet. ies in

the shape of hearts,

shapes as you For the glaze:

1

dough, adding water by the

filling:

cups blanched almonds

tbsp.

soft

water to keep them from giving off their

solid paste. For the

1

lard with the flour

and sugar and make a

Unsalted butter

IVa cups pastry flour

tbsp.

bowl combine the

For the dough:

10 oz. lard

1

to the re-

hour before serving.

MARZIPAN-FILLED COOKIES butter. In a large

3%

sides with sugar

and return

sheets

like.

and bake

Cut out

mushrooms,

filled

cook-

flowers, or other

Arrange the cookies on the baking

until the cookies are just colored, 10 to

12 minutes, rotating the pans from top to bottom half-

way during

baking.

Whisk

the egg white until frothy,

then whisk in the confectioners’ sugar and lemon

Remove

the baking sheet with the cookies

juice.

and turn off

769

the oven. Brush the hot cookies with the glaze and return

them

to the oven,

which

will

still

be

warm enough to

dry

the glaze in about 5 minutes.

CHESTNUT CAKE

CASTAGNACCIO

TOSCANA

This recipe Sift the

1

%

cups chestnut flour

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

cup

Vi

soaked

raisins,

in

typical of Lucca.

whisk in about 2 cups

oil

in a bowl; gradually

it

warm water to make a thick batter

free of lumps.

Whisk

in 2 tablespoons olive

and

blend

well.

warm salt,

water, drained, and squeezed dry Vi

is

chestnut flour and put

raisins;

Pour

oil,

a

little

into a greased cake

pan. Sprinkle with the walnuts, pine nuts, rosemary

cup walnuts, broken up

leaves,

Vi cup pine nuts

and the remaining

olive

Bake for about 30

oil.

:

1

minutes.

rosemary

tbsp.

Salt

CASTAGNE AL CUCCHIAIO

1

ABRUZZO

CHESTNUT FUDGE Butter a baking pan and line

it

with

wax

paper.

Cook the

chestnuts in lightly salted boiling water to cover until Vi

cup

(14 lb.)

plus

butter, plus

1

tbsp. unsalted

some

for the

soft.

Melt the

Drain, peel, and put through a sieve.

mold

chocolate in the top of a double boiler and add 1

Vi lbs.

chestnuts; 6

oz.

chocolate,

it

to the

chestnuts

chopped

in

stir in

the sugar

and butter and mix until thor-

pieces

Pour the mixture

oughly blended.

% cup sugar

pan, smooth to

make

into the prepared

even, and cover with

more wax

Whipped cream, for serving

paper.

Refrigerate for at least 4 hours, then serve with

Salt

whipped cream on the

CASTAGNE SECCHE LESSATE

LOMBARDIA

!

BOILED CHESTNUTS Soak the chestnuts remaining

1

Yi

lb.

dried chestnuts

cup sugar, or as much as desired 2 tbsp. honey

770

side.

the sugar

in water for

film. Boil in

1

night.

Remove any

4 cups water until tender; add

and honey and cook

for another

1

5 minutes.

Serve the chestnuts with their dark reddish cooking liquid.

CASTAGNOLE LAZIO

chestnuts”) and this recipe,

now was known

(Veneto, Emilia-Romagna, Lazio), until

from nineteenth-century cookbooks. A manuscript volume

sugar

olive oil

baking powder

Grated zest of

1

lemon

2 cups all-purpose flour,

or as needed Olive

attributed to various regions of Italy

is

4 large eggs

(or unsalted butter) Vi tsp.

(“little

the origin of which

% cup % cup extra-virgin 1

FRITTERS The term castagnole

oil,

for frying

Liqueur (such as

rum

from the end

of the 1700s,

found

only

the Viterbo state archives

in

by that city’s delegate Italo Arieti, contains four recipes for

them baked.

castagnole, one of which has

the face of this

In

evidence one must also add that, even today, of Tuscia castagnole are called struffoli, a

in

many towns

term today con-

sidered to be of Neapolitan origin that refers to small fried balls held together by honey.

famous cook

Nascia,

Examining old texts we find that

at the Farnese court, in his manuscript,

or

alchermes, see note, page 786) Confectioners’ sugar

dated 1684, presents a recipe entitled Struffoli alia Romana,

which describes fried balls with ingredients similar to those of castagnole,

prepared with a paste of

flour, butter, sugar,

and aromatic water with which one makes small gnocchi that are then fried

there

from nel

then

is

Latini,

in

lard

and served with a dusting

—and from not much

later (1692)

who was cook to the dukes

of sugar;

—

a recipe

of Altemps at Soriano

Cimino (not far from Viterbo) before serving the Anjou

court

Naples, also entitled Struffoli alia

in

Romana and

also

similar to today’s Neapolitan struffoli.

In a bowl beat the eggs with the sugar until pale yellow,

then slowly add the olive

lemon

zest,

% cup

very soft dough (more iz

inch of olive

drop but

balls

fill

oil

oil in a

like a

large

enough

pan and, using

of the batter into the

oil

so will give the

will also little

you

keep the

dough

balls

soft

a

Heat

a teaspoon,

and

carefully swirl

lumps of

batter their

characteristic spherical shape, while taking the

the heat will keep the

make

(do not crowd them,

lift

.

Doing

flour to

very thick batter).

the pan) While cooking

the pan.

powder,

(or butter), baking

water, and

and not too

from cooking too

pan off

greasy. This

quickly.

With

a

patience, prolonging the cooking to 5 or 6 minutes, will obtain big, soft balls.

After cooking drain on

paper towels, then sprinkle with liqueur and dust them with confectioners’ sugar.

CUSTARD

CAULATT

LOMBARDIA

In

the well-to-do areas above Milan this

made

is

using cream.

The “whipped” version of caulatt, a kind of zuppa inglese,

1%cups

made

milk

6 egg yolks

Mix

3tbsp. sugar

cream and

with half

and sugar

the milk, egg yolks,

until blended.

do not

in a

heavy saucepan

Heat over medium-low

heat, stirring, but

As soon

as the liquid coats

the mixture boil.

let

is

half milk.

the back of the spoon, turn off the heat, cover the pan,

and

CENCI

1

TOSCANA

thicken 10 minutes.

let it

FRIED PASTA RIBBONS This recipe

is

typical of Florence. Cenci

means

“rags,” from

the shape of the cut ribbons of dough. 1

Zi

cups all-purpose flour 1

Use

egg

1

a

tsp. vanilla extract

(or other

vi

and

n santo

1

0,

salt

little

knead

2 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 3 tbsp.

the flour

on page

Z3 cup sugar

and egg

to

make

adding the sugar,

When

with the egg.

dough

as in the recipe

the

dough

and

smooth,

is

Cover with a clean kitchen towel

in the vin santo.

let it rest for

a

vanilla extract, butter,

about

1

hour.

Roll out the

a floured surface to a sheet about

Vs

dough on

inch thick. Use a

sweet white dessert wine)

knife or pastry wheel to cut Olive

oil,

it

in long ribbons

about

for frying 1

inch wide and 8 inches long; twist each one into a loose

Confectioners’ sugar

knot, crossing the ends like a scarf.

Heat 2 inches of

Salt

olive oil in a until they

saucepan and fry the ribbons a few

puff up and turn golden brown.

at a

time

Drain on

paper towels and dust with confectioners’ sugar.

CHERRY MARMALADE CEPPELLI ATE

MOLISE

1

COOKIES Very sweet marmalade it

For the dough:

6% cups

all-purpose flour 18 egg yolks 2 cups sugar

CONTINUED

not

recommended

for these

because

filling.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Use the flour and egg yolks to

make

a

dough

sugar, lard,

as in the recipe

and lemon

on page 751, adding the

zest with the egg yolks.

baking powder and quickly knead together dients to

form

rolling pin

772

is

can cause them to open and lose the

a

smooth dough.

and cut out 2-inch

Form

all

Add

die

the ingre-

a sheet with a

disks, filling

each with

14 oz. lard

Grated zest of 2 lemons 1

baking powder

Zi tsp.

Confectioners’ sugar

cherry marmalade (about the

dough over the

them

to give

until golden,

1

tablespoon each).

and

filling

seal the edges,

them the shape of small then

let

Fold

then bend

crescents.

Bake

them cool and dust them with con-

fectioners’ sugar. For the

filling:

Cherry marmalade, as needed

CHARLOTTE

PIEMONTE

PEAR PIE

8

Prepare the short pastry:

sift

FOR PERSONS

together the flour and sugar,

then cut in the butter. Stir in the egg yolks, Marsala, and For the short pastry:

lemon

zest until the mixture

comes together

cups all-purpose flour

Knead

gently a few times.

Refrigerate the pastry for

1

Va lb. (V2

cups sugar

14

cup) plus 6 tbsp. unsalted

butter, chilled

and cut

one hour.

Prepare the

filling:

Combine

prunes, Barolo, lemon zest, sugar, spices, and

in a ball.

the pears, salt.

Cook

into pieces

until the the liquid has

reduced to a thick syrup and the

4 egg yolks Va 1

tsp.

pears are tender.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a

deep pie

out half of the pastry to

cup Marsala

grated lemon zest

Use For the 2 lbs. pears

(if

filling:

possible

"Martin sech”), cored but not peeled

and cut

in half

Zi lb.

lengthwise

fruit

it

plate. Roll

to line the pie plate, then

and

liquid.

and cover the Bake

it

V%

inch thick.

with the cooked

Roll out the other half of the pastry

fruit.

until golden,

fill

Use

a fork to seal the edges well.

about 40 minutes. Cool for a few

minutes, then transfer to a serving plate. Serve warm.

prunes, pitted 2 cups Barolo

(or other hearty red wine) 1

tsp. grated

lemon zest

5 tbsp. 1

tsp. 1

sugar

ground cinnamon

pinch ground cloves Salt

CHARLOTTE ALLA MILANESE

LOMBARDIA

APPLE CHARLOTTE Preheat the oven to 350°F. Va

Va

cup

(4 tbsp.)

unsalted butter

a

cup sugar and use

this

Mix

6

FOR PERSONS

2 tablespoons butter and

mixture to coat the inside of

round cake pan. Cut the apples

into %-inch slices.

3

A cup sugar CONTINUED

Arrange them

in a single layer in a saute pan; dust with

the remaining sugar, then

add the lemon

zest,

wine, and

773

2 lbs. apples, peeled and cored

Grated zest of ]4

1

lemon

cup white wine, such as Moscato from the Oltrepo Pavese Zi

cup golden raisins

Stale French bread, cut into thin slices (enough to line

the baking pan) Vi

cup rum

enough water eral

Cook

to cover them.

the apples for sev-

minutes, just until they are tender but not

the apple slices (set aside to

Meanwhile soak the

soft.

raisins in a

little

15 minutes, then drain and set aside.

warm

water for

With the remain-

ing butter, butter both sides of the slices of bread, then

use them to line the bottom and sides of the pan; arrange a layer of apple slices in the middle of the mold; sprinkle

with

Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons rum, then

raisins.

make another

and sprinkle with

layer of apple slices

and 2 tablespoons rum. Cover with the remain-

raisins

ing slices of bread. Dust this with sugar so that

caramelize golden.

when

When

CHI ACCHIERE

6

/3

style

CAMPANIA

This recipe

6 large eggs Va lb.

O/2 cup) plus

1

tbsp.

unsalted butter, melted 2 tbsp. 2 tbsp.

Sunflower

rum

almond

oil,

oil

all

crostoli,

is

over

6

PERSONS

typical of Benevento. Similar fried pastries are Italy

names and

with different

different ingre-

page 795),

and guanti.

Mix the flour and the sugar, then use them and the eggs to make a dough as in the recipe on page 751, adding the Knead the butter, rum, and almond oil with the eggs. mixture energetically, adding a necessary. it

Salt

will

dark

match, and serve

dients: chiacchiere, bugie, galani, frappe (see

for frying

Confectioners’ sugar

When

the

dough

is

little

flower

oil in

1

inch wide.

a saucepan

and

tioners’ sugar

and

serve.

lukewarm water

smooth and

into a sheet with a rolling pin

4 inches long and

Drain on paper towels and

774

strike a

CARNIVAL COOKIES

6tbsp. sugar

it

until

of great chefs everywhere,

rum,

CARNEVALE

cups all-purpose flour

hour

flambe!

made 2

1

done, turn out the mold onto a heat-

it is

sprinkle the charlotte with it

Bake for

baking.

proof plate and, in the

Dl

Drain

them drain completely).

let

and cut

it

if

elastic roll

into strips

Heat 2 inches of sun-

fry the

dough

let cool.

until golden.

Dust with confec-

CIAM BELLE

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

WINE DOUGHNUTS Preheat the oven to 350°F. Thoroughly blend the flour with the butter and pass

10

oz.

6% cups all-purpose flour (1 A cups) unsalted butter,

wine and sugar, then

it

through a

the mixture into the dough.

stir

Heat the

sieve.

stirring just until the sugar dissolves,

Shape the dough

softened

A

A cups

2 1

sugar

3 inches in diameter. Place the rings

Bake

CIAMBELLE DOLCI

CALABRIA

for

20 minutes

2 4 large

cups all-purpose flour

A tsp.

active dry yeast

until lightly

on

a baking pan.

browned.

RING BREADS WITH EGGS Mix about

2 cups of the flour and the yeast dissolved in

2 tablespoons

3%

and form rings about

into thin ropes, cut into lengths, cup white wine

and

warm water to form a sticky dough. Cover a warm spot. When the dough has

let this rest in

doubled form a well with the remaining flour and work

eggs plus about 10 more it

into the

dough along with the raw

eggs, anisette, sugar,

hard-boiled (depending on

the

number

A 1

of loaves)

cup anisette

A

cups sugar

4 oz. lard, softened Salt

and a pinch of salt. Then blend

energetically for a long time to obtain a firm

this

elastic

small loaves about 4 inches long and press a hard-boiled

Arrange them on the baking sheet and

egg into each.

them

and bake

LAZIO

and

Flour a baking sheet. Shape the dough into

dough.

let

CIAMBELLINE ALL’ACQUA MELATA

Knead

in the lard.

rise a

few hours.

until golden,

Preheat the oven to 400°F

about 30 minutes.

HONEY DOUGHNUTS This recipe

nothing

is

typical of the Viterbo area.

more than the water used

after extracting the honey. In times of

honey sold

this

Honey water

to rinse out

gone

by,

is

honeycombs

the producers

water for a few cents or even gave

it

away

who used it as a sweetener in place of honey. Those who had the means to do so

to the less well-to-do,

the

more

costly

made these doughnuts with honey instead of honey water. Today, like many of the sweets made with honey, these are almost completely forgotten, also because their hard texture

made them

less appealing to both children

various dialect

and adults. The

—

names by which they are known straccaall make referbirollt

ganasse, ferri d’asino, cazzo melato,

—

ence to this particular characteristic. There are also certain

775

3 3A cups all-purpose flour,

places

or as needed

1

or 2tbsp. olive

Pepper

(if

in Italy

where these same names are also used

who are “hard

identify those

2 cups honey water (see note)

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Grease a baking sheet.

oil

desired)

Knead

the flour with the honey water, adding olive

oil to

dough

little

the consistency of bread dough. (A

pepper can be added this

dough

and

join the

to

to

of understanding.”

dough made

a

Shape

for adults.)

and V2 inch thick

into cylinders 3 inches long

ends to form doughnuts.

form

ground

Bake

until

golden

and crunchy, about 40 minutes.

CIAMBELUNE

ANISE RING COOKIES

ALL’ANICE

LAZIO

This recipe

is

typical of

Rome.

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Use the flour to make a dough 3

K2 cup

all-purpose flour Vz

as in the recipe

cup sugar olive

Vz

cup white wine, such as Frascati, Castelli Romani, or Orvieto Vz

cup

oil.

dough to

on page 751, using the sugar, wine, and

Fold in the anise seeds. Vi6

inch thickness, cut

it

Roll out a sheet of

into 3-inch lengths,

and

wrap these around your finger to form little doughnuts.

olive oil

Place on a baking sheet and bake until they are golden

2tbsp. anise seeds

and crunchy, about 15 minutes.

|

CIARAMILLE

LAZIO

1

BOILED AND BAKED COOKIES This recipe

is

3 cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed

1

1

egg, beaten

1

tbsp. sugar

tbsp. olive

tsp. grated

Tuscia. Boiling

look shiny, as

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Use the flour and egg to prepare a dough as in the recipe on page 751, adding the sugar, a pinch of

oil

lemon zest

in

though they had been brushed with egg white.

egg. 1

San Giovanni

makes the cookies

typical of Villa

the dough before baking

salt, olive oil,

Shape the dough

and lemon

zest with the

into cylinders the thickness of

your thumb, about V2 inch. Form these cylinders into

Salt

various shapes, joining the ends, tying splitting the ends, etc.

to boiling

Heat a pot of

them

in knots,

lightly salted

and immerse the shaped dough

they float extract them with a skimmer,

water

it.

When

make

a small

into

shallow incision in the surface of each one, and bake until they are

776

golden brown.

Cl ARLOTTA Dl

MELE

CAMPANIA

APPLE TART The short pastry

6

recipe

in this

is

FOR PERSONS

perfect for every kind of

filling.

For the short pastry: 1

6

% cups all-purpose flour

oz. (1 Zi sticks)

unsalted butter,

Combine

the pastry ingredients just until mixed; shape

into a ball

and

let it rest,

about 30 minutes.

covered, in a cool place for

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a

chilled

% cup sugar

9-inch baking pan, then surface and use

roll

out the pastry on a floured

baking pan. Cover the

to line the

it

3 egg yolks

dough with aluminum Grated zest of

1

For the lb.

filling:

apples, peeled, cored,

and cut 1

Vi 1

into

2

wedges

A cups

and bake

for

At

20 minutes.

remove the aluminum and bake

the end of that time

1

foil

lemon

sugar

cup Cointreau

another 5 minutes, or until the dough

is

golden brown.

Toss the apples with the sugar and arrange in a single layer in a large saute pan.

Cook

over medium-high heat

without stirring so the sugar caramelizes and the apples

keep their shape (they

will

look “candied”)

Remove

-

tsp. vanilla extract

pan from the heat and add the Cointreau and

Crystallized violets

extract.

Mint leaves

for

Spoon

the

vanilla

the apple mixture into the short-pastry

mold. Decorate with crystallized

violets

and mint

leaves.

ANISE FRITTERS CICCITIELLI

CALABRIA

WITH HONEY In a large bowl beat together the eggs and yolks, sugar, lard, anise,

7 large eggs plus 3 yolks

% cup sugar 5 oz. lard Vi

6% cups

cup anise seeds

is

dough

1

oil,

for frying

% cups honey Salt

Gradually add the

flour,

dough

let rise for

to a thickness of

%

into shapes (stars, circles, sticks, etc.).

inches of

oil in a

Heat the honey and

medium

Transfer the

Knead 1

inch and cut

Heat

several

V*

heat and

ciccitielli

cup water let it

on paper

in a small

simmer

to a wire rack

towels.

saucepan

for 10 minutes.

and pour the honey

syrup over, carefully turning them to coat both

Let stand

in

hour.

saucepan and fry the dough, a few

pieces at a time until golden. Drain

over

working the

to obtain a fine but firm consistency.

Roll out the it

Olive

a pinch of salt, beating until the mixture

the yeast, cover with a cloth, and

all-purpose flour

434 tsp. active dry yeast

and

pale yellow.

until dry,

about 30 minutes.

sides.

HONEY FRITTERS

CICERCH ATA I

LAZIO

This recipe

Molise

6% cups all-purpose flour

Use the

5 large eggs Olive 1

Candied

for frying

oil,

/}

recipe as

cups honey

fruit,

typical of Rieti.

in

until

lumps the

into long sticks

size

Heat the honey

stand until

I

ABRUZZO

as in the

Heat 2 inches of

of chickpeas.

until golden,

Put them on a serving plate

in a

saucepan over low heat

just

bubbles form on the edges of the pan. Pour the

fruit, sliced

Zi

dough

saucepan and fry the dough

honey over the

1

to prepare a soft

any arrangement desired, such as a pyramid or ring or

oval.

CICERCHI ATA

in

Anthony Abbot.

Shape the dough

then drain on paper towels.

Candy-coated almonds

dicarnevale

A similar recipe from Larino

though about to prepare gnocchi, but instead cut them

olive oil in a

Blanched sliced almonds

and eggs

flour

on page 751.

into small

chopped

is

a specialty of the feast day of St.

is

fritters,

then sprinkle them with candied

almonds, and candy-coated almonds. Let about

set,

1

hour.

CARNIVAL RING CAKE Use the flour and eggs as in the recipe on page 751 to make a soft dough, adding the wine, % cup olive oil, and

cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

2 tablespoons sugar with the eggs to obtain a dense but

dough. Let

soft

this rest

15 minutes, covered by a cloth.

2 large eggs J4

Divide the dough and work them into pieces about the

cup dry white wine, such as

Trebbiano d’Abruzzo or Orvieto 54

cup

extra-virgin olive

plus

%cup

oil,

for frying

oil

size

and shape of

and

roll

balls

them

Drain and

% cup honey

the

almonds

a pinky.

Cut these

your palms to form

set

them

aside to dry

heat over

medium

heat just to thin

balls, toss to coat,

then

stir in

Dust these

oil until

on paper

honey and the remaining sugar

chunks

into short balls.

with flour, then fry them in olive

3tbsp. sugar

slivered

in

in a

it.

golden.

Put

towels.

saucepan and

Add

in the

the almonds.

dough

Let

this

cool a few hours (on a windowsill or in the refrigerator)

before serving.

CIPREN

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

I

ALMOND SHORTBREAD When she

arrived

in

Parma, Marie Louise (empress

of the

French as consort of Napoleon) was accompanied by a court

composed almost entirely of Austrians.

Among them was

a

baker named Cipperech, responsible for preparing the

778

1

1

A cup

2

A

% cups pastry flour

Z*

cups almond flour

confectioners' sugar

lb. (1

cup) plus 2tbsp.

unsalted butter

Grated lemon zest

famous Viennese bread. This man later went into business, selling his goods to the public, and his most popular products

made

included certain small loaves tinctive half-moon shape.

of

of semolina flour in a dis-

The French called these croissants-,

named them them gipperic. The same name was the people of Parma

for the baker and called also applied for the shape

bread the Austrians called gipfel or kipferln, which evolved

into gipren and, finally, cipren.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Whisk together the flours and sugar. Work in the butter until the mixture forms a dough;

knead

in the

lemon

zest.

Shape the dough

into a thin (!4-

inch) cylinder and cut into pieces about 2 inches long.

Bake

COLAC

MOLISE

until lightly colored,

NUT CRESCENTS This recipe

Crumble walnuts, For the

(or Zi

cup coarse breadcrumbs)

% cup finely chopped Zi

1

cup

finely

almonds

chopped walnuts

apple, peeled, cored,

typical of Montemitro.

figs,

and add the almonds,

apple, orange zest, cloves,

Mix

until blended.

Add

the

and cinnamon.

stirring until a paste forms,

honey and cook

at

Meanwhile prepare the short

pastry: use the flour

eggs as in the recipe on page 773 to

make

ing the sugar, lard, and wine with the eggs.

dough

1

orange

Pinch ground cinnamon

cup honey, plus more as needed

in a clean kitchen towel

for about

30 minutes.

and

3Ks cups all-purpose flour 4 large eggs

% cup sugar 5]/z oz. lard, 3h.

Wrap

the

set this aside to rest

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

On

a floured surface, with a floured rolling pin, roll out the

dough

to

into disks

Vi6

inch thick.

Using a

glass cut the

and place a heaping tablespoon of the

the center of each. Fold the disks over For the short pastry:

and

a dough, add-

4 dried figs

Pinch ground cloves

low heat,

adding more honey as needed.

and minced

Grated zest of

Zi

is

the bread into a saucepan

filling:

cup stale bread without crust

Kz

about 12 minutes.

on themselves,

sealing the edges with the tines of a fork

them

to give

these

on the baking sheet and bake

and bending

them the shape of horseshoes. for

dough

filling at

Arrange

30 minutes,

until

golden.

softened

cup wine

779

LOCAL TRADITION

COPATE BIANCHE These sweet sandwich wafer cookies come from Toscana. To make the copate, or ing, first the. sugar

and honey would be cooked down

form a thick paste.

Stiffly

in

a

fill-

saucepan over low heat to

whipped egg whites would then be

stirred into the mixture,

followed by toasted and finely chopped almonds and vanilla-flavored confectioners’ sugar. While keeping the saucepan over low heat, scoops of the copate would be rolled into cylinders (with cornstarch into short lengths.

used to keep them from sticking) and then cut

These lengths then would be sandwiched between two

cialde, or

wafers, to form the finished copate bianche. After resting a few hours, these cookies

were served

room temperature.

at

ALMOND WAFERS

copete

BASILICATA

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Toast the almonds just until starting to take

3

A cup

blanched almonds

Whip

2 egg whites 1

Z3 cups

more

on

a

little

Let cool and chop

color.

the egg whites until

tioners’ sugar,

confectioners’ sugar,

plus

to make 30

stiff,

well.

then fold in the confec-

almonds, and cinnamon. Distribute

this

mixture by the teaspoonful on the wafers and spread

for sprinkling

the mixture to the edges of the wafers. Place

Pinch ground cinnamon

sheets (at least

30 (3-inch-diameter) wafers

two sheets

will

be needed)

confectioners’ sugar and bake for 15 minutes.

and trim away any area of wafer filling.

These can be stored

in

that extends

on baking Dust with

.

Let cool

beyond the

an airtight container for a

long time.

COTOGNATA SICILIA

I

QUINCE PASTE Select firm quinces that are not quite ripe. Use utensils of

1

lb.

whole quinces 1

Z2 lemons

Sugar, as needed

780

earthenware, Pyrex, or stainless steel for this recipe; do

not use aluminum.

Cook

the quinces in a saucepan with half a

water to cover.

lemon

in

After about 30 minutes they should be

.

soft.

Drain and

let

stand just until cool enough to handle,

then peel them (the skin

and pass through

Measure the

is

and seed them.

thin)

resulting puree, then transfer to a saucepan

and add an equal amount of sugar. the juice of

Stir this well

from the heat and pour

into

molds

earthenware ones called formi, but any

Let the paste dry

the

be stored

it is

out. Tightly

it

stir

Remove

(the best are the flat

mold

will

in the refrigerator for 8 days;

almost dry to the touch,

mold and turn

and add

Heat over medium heat and

lemon.

1

constantly until the mixture begins to boil.

it is

Slice

a small-holed nonreactive sieve.

ready.

Loosen

wrapped,

do)

when

it

from

this paste

can

long time.

a

LOCAL TRADITION CO

PATE

N E R E

Similar to the copate bianche, these Tuscan sandwich cookies were a

sweet

filling

between two wafers.

cooked over high heat

until

this recipe, the

made

by pressing

sugar and honey were instead

almost burned, achieving the dark reddish brown color

from which the dessert takes

were then added

In

its

name. Toasted and chopped almonds and walnuts

to the thickened mixture,

and the

filling

was spread between two

of

the wafers.

I

coppa DELL APE

VALLE D'AOSTA

I

CREAM WITH CHOCOLATE SAUCE ICE

This recipe

Make 'A

4

oz.

cup milk

chocolate, chopped 1

lb.

ice

cream

12 walnuts, shelled

% cup honey Whipped cream 12 wild cherries

in

syrup

is

typical of Cervinia.

chocolate syrup by heating the milk and chocolate

over low heat, stirring until smooth.

cream

from the heat. Scoop

ice

ble the walnuts over

and

chocolate syrup.

Remove

into four bowls.

the

pan

Crum-

drizzle with honey, then with

Decorate each with whipped cream,

wild cherries, and a

little

of the cherry syrup.

CHOCOLATE PARFAITS

COVIGLIA AL CIOCCOLATO

CAMPANIA

This recipe

Whip 4 large eggs, separated

]4

remaining

cup rum

%

% cup

and pale

form and

Beat the yolks and the

sugar.

a mixer

on medium speed

yellow, then

add the rum. Fold

cup sugar with

V*

until thickened

2 tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder 1

typical of Naples.

gradually fold in

cup sugar

Vi

is

the whites of the eggs until soft peaks

the egg whites into the egg yolks until blended, then di-

cups pastry cream (see page 843)

vide the mixture in two parts.

To one of

these parts

add the cocoa powder and half of the pastry cream; the other

add only the pastry cream.

spoons of both mixtures in dessert glasses in chocolate

molds

and serve the next

CREMA

D

1

ARANCE

CAMPANIA

1

(sold in

% cup sugar Zi

is

typical of Naples. Serve this highly fragrant

Make

stantly.

cream by heating the egg

yolks, sugar, corn-

heat, stirring con-

When

pudding remove

preferably organic

juice

and

zest.

refrigerator.

COGNE

VALLE D'AOSTA 6 egg yolks

1

tsp.

unsweetened cocoa 4 cups milk

2 cups plus 2 tbsp. heavy cream 2 oz. (2 squares) chocolate, grated

A tsp.

3

corn syrup

it

from the heat and add the orange

Spoon

into dessert cups

and put

in the

Serve cold.

CHOCOLATE CUSTARD This should be served with slices of

from the

pan dolce from Cogne

Valle d’Aosta, or even with

simple ladyfingers.

Set

up

yolks

a

double

until thickened stir in

boiler. In a

heatproof bowl, beat the egg

and half the sugar with

the milk

and pale

a mixer

yellow, then

and 2 cups cream.

on medium speed add the cocoa and

Cook

over simmer-

ing water, whisking until thick, then whisk in the chocolate.

Meanwhile, combine the remaining sugar with

the corn syrup

782

reaches the consistency of thick

this

(Lo Macoulen), tegole

2 cups sugar

cream and a twist

cinnamon.

and milk over medium-low

a

starch,

Dl

a dollop of whipped

of candied orange, dusted with

2 cups milk

CREMA

even better,

.

ORANGE CUSTARD This recipe

cup cornstarch

Juice and grated zest of 4 oranges,

or,

stores) Refrigerate

day.

cream decorated with 4 egg yolks

gourmet

to

Put a few table-

and

1

tablespoon water in a saucepan.

Heat over high heat without a dark golden color.

Remove

mixture

stirring until the

whisk in the remaining cream (the mixture

and bubble vigorously). Whisk smooth, then whisk

move

CREMA

D

COURMAYEUR

I

I

VALLE D'AOSTA

the custard

This recipe

cups whole milk

14

and

cup rum

Grated zest of

1

is

all

typical of

Serve cold.

chill.

Courmayeur.

the ingredients except the bread in a cop-

over simmering water and

cup sugar 14

from the heat and

is

Re-

per bowl or in the top of a double boiler. Set the bowl

4 egg yolks Zi

steam

RUM CUSTARD Combine

1

will

the mixture

until

into the chocolate mixture.

it

is

the pan from the heat and

it is

stir until

the mixture thickens

Pour the mixture

very creamy.

into individual

cups, then top with the bread.

lemon

Black Valdostan rye bread, crumbled

CREMA

FORM AGGIO

Dl

bianco

mirtilli

ai

I

VALLE D'AOSTA

BERRY-CHEESE CREAM This

is

a simple

and healthy dessert that

is

products, except for the jam and the nuts. 10

oz.

if

necessary) Zi

Mix

cup milk

3 tbsp. heavy

the reblec, milk, cream,

until blended.

cream for

3 tbsp. berry

made

with fresh

cannot be made

with products with preservatives. Serve with cookies.

reblec (fresh white cheese;

can use fromage blanc

It

jam

1

hour.

Spoon

and berry jam

in a

bowl

into individual cups. Refrigerate

If desired,

decorate with crushed almonds

or hazelnuts before serving.

Toasted almonds or hazelnuts,

crushed (optional)

CREMA

Dl

MASCARPONE

LOMBARDIA

I

MASCARPONE CREAM You can reduce the amount of sugar

in this

recipe to suit

your taste. Serve this with a sweet bread; panettone 2 large eggs, separated,

plus Zt.

10

oz.

1

egg yolk

cup sugar

good choice, whether fresh or toasted on the

mixer on low.

rum

a

In a bowl, beat the 3 egg yolks and the sugar with a

mascarpone 4 tbsp.

is

grill.

medium speed

In another bowl

until

thickened and pale yel-

whip the 2 egg whites

then fold into the yolk mixture.

Gently

until stiff

stir in

the

783

mascarpone and rum.

Spoon

and

into teacups

refrig-

erate until serving.

CRESCIA FOGLIATA

MARCHE For the dough: 1

34 lb. 0/2

34

cups all-purpose flour

cup) unsalted butter, chilled 1

BAKED APPLE PASTRY This recipe

was invented by peasants meaning “cake,”

typical of Laverino.

It

long ago. The

name

of crescia,

and

meaning “short pastry.”

is

fogliata,

composed

is

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Blend butter until a

egg

aside.

Salt

and egg

Combine

dough

to

and

into a ball

the remaining flour,

form

to create a

cup flour with the

34

dough forms. Shape

salt, 34

knead with the

a soft mixture, then

unifom mixture.

set

cup water,

Meanwhile cook all

the ingredients for the filling in a saucepan over low 1

lb.

apples, peeled,

cored, and sliced

% cup raisins 1

34

%

34

cups sugar

cup chopped walnuts

cup chopped dried

figs

Pinch ground cinnamon

Zi

When

the apples are slightly tender,

the

dough

thick.

to

form a

Arrange the

Starting with the

long cylinder.

let

large rectangle that

filling

same

remove the

the mixture cool.

down

side, roll

is

Roll out

about

inch

34

the length of one side.

up

the

dough

to

form

a

Place on a baking sheet and bake for 20

34

cup Marsala

to 25 minutes until golden. Let stand

34

cup anisette

temperature.

and serve

at

room

cup apricot jam

h cup

l

heat.

pan from the heat and

heavy cream

CRESPELLE

CON MARMELLATA FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

PALATSCHINKEN WITH PRESERVES These pancakes, ennobled

name ble

crepes, are

in

in

the rest of

truth one of the

Italy

by the

most authentic

pompous yet

hum-

sweets from the Trieste area. Considering the poverty

in

the area and the scarcity of ingredients, the poor families of Trieste saved eggs by adding spelle that are larger Filled

more

flour, resulting in cre-

and heavier than their French cousins.

with apricot preserves, folded

in

four or rolled up

—

in

certain trattorias in the Carso area they are filled with wal-

nut cream or pastry cream

— and dusted with

confectioners’

sugar, then pressed with the tines of a hot fork, they are a special sweet and

in

remained unchanged that their crespelle

784

truth highly satisfying. The recipe has in

time and the people of Trieste insist

must never be confused with crepes.

For the crespelle: 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 targe eggs Vz

cup unsalted butter, or as needed

mix

In a bowl a

smooth

enough layer.

the flour, 2 cups water,

batter.

Melt

1

batter to cover the

Cook

and eggs

tbsp. butter in a

to

form

pan and pour

bottom of the pan with

in

a thin

golden on the bottom, then turn

until lightly

over to complete the cooking. Repeat with the remaining For the

filling:

batter, Apricot preserves Confectioners’ sugar

LAZIO For the pastry:

until all

these with preserves,

RICOTTA CROSTATA This recipe

was used

1

Fill

up, and sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar.

roll

CROSTATA CON LA RICOTTA

adding more butter to the pan as needed,

the batter has been used up.

Use

in

Upper

typical of

is

Lazio.

Once upon a time lard

place of butter.

the flour

and whole egg

to prepare a

dough

as in the

Vi

cups all-purpose flour

recipe

1

large egg plus 2 yolks

pinch of salt, and lemon zest with the whole egg. Let the

plus 3 tbsp.

14 lb. (1 stick)

on page 751, adding the egg

dough

rest for

about

hour

1

yolks, butter, sugar,

Pre-

in the refrigerator.

unsalted butter, cut into pieces

heat the oven to 425°F. Butter a pie pan. In a bowl

3

com-

A cup sugar bine the ricotta, sugar, 2 egg yolks (reserve the whites),

Grated zest of

Vz

lemon I

whole egg, orange and lemon

zest, chocolate, cinna-

Salt

mon, rum, and candied For the 1

lb.

1

filling:

fresh ricotta

Vz

cups sugar

3 large eggs, 2 separated

Grated zest of

1

orange and

1

lemon

2 oz. (2 squares) bittersweet

chocolate, grated

Pinch ground cinnamon Vz

cup rum

Diced candied fruit Confectioners’ sugar

pastry

dough

in

two

fruit until

one

parts,

other. Roll out the larger portion to I I

inches in diameter and use

Cover

this

it

form

Roll out the re-

maining portion of pastry dough and cut

to

form

some of

than the

a circle about

to line the pie pan.

with the ricotta mixture.

thick strips. Arrange

Divide the

mixed.

slightly larger

it

into

1

-inch-

the strips over the ricotta

a lattice, using other strips to create a border.

Beat the egg whites until frothy and brush the pastry strips

with them. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the

pastry strips are golden brown. Let cool to perature, then refrigerate until cold.

room tem-

Dust with confec-

tioners’ sugar before serving.

CROSTATA

Dl

SEIRASS

(RICOTTA)

PIEMONTE

RICOTTA CHEESECAKE This recipe

is

6

FOR PERSONS

typical of Cuneo.

Butter the bottom and sides of a round baking pan and sprinkle

it

with breadcrumbs. Whisk together the flour,

sugar, baking powder,

and

a

pinch of

salt.

Work

in the

785

For the dough: Za lb.

(

Zi

cup) unsalted butter

cup breadcrumbs

Zi

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed

butter until the mixture looks like coarse crumbs, then

mix

into the pastry;

cup heavy cream

1

cup Marsala

to line the

Mix

together the the mixture

and Wi inches

1

Drizzle with the cream and bake for 35 to 40

thick. 14

it

Spoon

should be between

it

30 minutes.

sides of the pan. Let this rise

ingredients except the cream.

filling

rest

inch thick and use

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

hour.

baking powder 4 egg yolks

Vi

bottom and halfway up the 1

tsp.

1

egg yolks, cream, Marsala, and cognac until a

Roll out a sheet about

tbsp. sugar

1

in the

smooth dough forms. Let the dough

minutes. Let cool to lukewarm and serve.

cup cognac

J4

Grated zest of 2 or 3 lemons Salt

For the 1

3

A

lbs. ricotta (seirass, 2

A cup

filling:

available)

if

raisins, softened in

lukewarm water and drained cup chopped candied

Zi

fruit

2 oz. torrone (nougat), crumbled 1

tbsp. vanilla sugar 1

tbsp.

lemon zest

2 tbsp. heavy

cream

CROSTINI UBRIACHI

UMBRIA 3 tsp.

chopped semisweet chocolate Zi

cup chopped bittersweet chocolate

2 cups

%

brewed black coffee

cup alchermes (see note)

DRUNKEN TOASTS Alchermes

is

To achieve

its

neal.

/ cup rum removed

A cup toasted

2

and chopped almonds

it

is

flavors.

dyed with cochi-

is

typical of the Carnival celebrations in

Citta di Castello.

Melt the two kinds of chocolate heat.

Remove

fee,

then

Dip

Vi

pan from the

in a

saucepan

cup of the alchermes and

Add

,

stir to

of bread.

low

at

heat, then stir in the cofVi

cup of the rum.

on

a

the almonds to the remaining liquid

saucepan along with the remaining

chermes slices

the

the slices of bread in the liquid then arrange

serving plate. in the

786

characteristic red color,

choice. This sweet

3

Slices of stale bread, crust

and spicy

a liqueur infused with floral

You can substitute another sweet liqueur of your

rum and

al-

blend, then spoon the mixture over the

Let stand 15 minutes before serving.

A

CRUMIRI

CASALE

Dl

CRESCENT COOKIES

PIEMONTE

The name, also spelled krumiri, comes from the name of a

plus 2 tbsp.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter and flour a baking

liqueur popular Zi lb. (2 sticks)

unsalted butter

Mix

sheet. 1

Za

cups all-purpose flour 1

% cups cornmeal

the butter.

in

the late nineteenth century.

the flour, cornmeal,

Add

and sugar, then blend

the eggs one at a time

in

and blend thor-

oughly to make a smooth, soft dough.

Let

rest,

it

cov-

cup sugar

1

ered, for

30 minutes, then divide

it

into four portions.

4 large eggs

Put one portion star tip.

at a

time into a pastry bag with a large

Pipe out half-moons about 4 inches long onto

Bake

the prepared baking sheet.

CUCCI SICILIA Vz

cups wheat berries 1

lb.

ricotta

Za

cup anise liqueur

tbsp. sweet

ground chocolate

1

This

Vz

cups sugar

is

a traditional sweet for the feast of

Candied pumpkin

Ground cinnamon, as desired 1

Zi oi.

bittersweet chocolate,

chopped 2 tbsp. Vz

chopped

until

is

sold

in

1

St. Lucy,

jars packed

in

December

syrup, or you

can make your own. To make candied pumpkin, cut enough

squash or pumpkin bine

water

When

cubes to make

into 1-inch

cup sugar, ZA cup water, and

1

in

it

is

Vi

V*

boil, stirring

cup.

Com-

teaspoon orange-flower

saucepan over medium

a medium-size

the mixture to a 1

20 minutes

WHEAT-BERRY PUDDING 13.

1

for

browned.

lightly

heat. Bring

so that the sugar dissolves.

clear and boiling nicely, add the cubed squash and

return to a

boil. Let boil

tender but

still

firm

for 6 minutes, or until the

when pierced

squash

is

Remove the

with a knife.

squash with a slotted spoon to a bowl and set aside to

cool.

citron

Another version of this dessert flavors the wheat berries

cup chopped candied pumpkin

with milk, dried orange peel, cinnamon, cloves, raisins, wal-

(see note)

nuts,

and grated chocolate.

Salt

Soak the wheat berries

in a

cover for an entire night.

saucepan with cold water to

The

next day, change the

water and begin cooking the wheat berries in the same

pan with a pinch of salt.

When this has

cooked

heat this will take about half a day), drain

it

Pass the ricotta through a sieve into a bowl. liqueur, then the sugar,

mon.

Stir in the

and mix

well.

until cold.

low

Mix

it.

in the

ground chocolate, and cinna-

chopped chocolate and the

fold in the candied

(at

and cool

pumpkin.

Add

citron, then

the wheat berries

Pour into cups or molds and

Dust with cinnamon before

refrigerate

serving.

787

ALMOND- AND FIG-FILLED CHRISTMAS COOKIES

CUCCIDDATI SICILIA For the dough:

9

is

Use

the flour to prepare a firm

page 751, using the

3/3 cups all-purpose flour

J4

cups sugar

For the Zi lb.

lb.

1 Zt.

figs, finely

in the

cocoa and cook

ously, until

the

filling.

sheet.

chopped

at

it

Vs

forms a homogeneous paste.

Shape the

On

filling into

inch thick and cut

it

lengths of filled dough.

dough

incisions

1

V2 inches dough

in

to

on these

them

to

rect-

make

into 8-inch lengths

form doughnut shapes.

on the surface with the

tip

of a knife to

steam escape during cooking. Place the cookies on

the baking sheet for

to

filling

to enclose

Cut these

and press the ends together

Make

Stir

into rectangular strips about 2

angles, folding over the

let

figs,

Refrigerate

cylinders about

or 2 tbsp. unsweetened

2 egg yolks, beaten

aside to

a floured surface, roll out the

inches wide. Place the cylinders of

cocoa powder

it

very low heat, stirring continu-

Pinch ground cinnamon 1

on

few tablespoons

Preheat the oven to 350°F and grease a baking

diameter.

cups golden raisins

cup honey, or as needed

14

as in the recipe

a

honey, and cinnamon until blended.

filling:

almonds, shelled, peeled,

dried

and

combine the almonds, dried

* In a saucepan

raisins, the

toasted, and finely chopped 1

dough

lard, sugar,

water (or as needed) in place of the eggs. Set

oz. lard

rest. 1

a traditional Christmas sweet.

This

and brush them with the egg yolks. Bake

20 minutes, or

until they are

golden brown. Serve

either hot or cold.

|

DITA DEGLI APOSTOLI

PUGLIA

I

APOSTLES’ FINGERS (RICOTTA-STUFFED CREPES) In Brindisi this

was once made with

powder, cherries For the

filling:

lb.

sheep’s-milk ricotta

Vi

cup superfine sugar

1

Juice of

1

lemon

Grated zest of 2 lemons Zi

cup chopped candied orange

Wrap the

it

in the refrigerator for

and sugar, coffee

it

other

in a strainer,

4 hours to drain.

end of that time combine the drained

Whisk together

At

ricotta with the

ingredients, working well to obtain a

filling

geneous mixture.

the flour

homo-

and sugar

then whisk in the eggs until smooth, then

whisk in the milk and orange zest to make a smooth bat-

cups all-purpose flour ter.

Zi

ricotta

and chopped, along with

the ricotta in cheesecloth, place

and put

in a bowl,

For the crepes: 3 Zi

in liquor, pitted

the alcohol from the cherries.

Heat a

1

0-inch nonstick pan over medium-high heat

cup confectioners’ sugar

and add 6 large eggs

1

tom of the

tablespoon of butter, swirling to coat the botpan. Pour

% cup

batter into the

pan and im-

4 cups milk

mediately swirl and CONTINUED surface evenly to

788

tilt

make

the

pan so the

batter coats the

a crepe 8 inches in diameter.

Grated zest of

1

orange

Unsalted butter, as needed for cooking the crepes

2

/3

cup chopped semisweet

Cook for about 2 minutes until the bottom is (the top will start to look set)

Cook

side.

the

pan

and

roll

.

Spoon

brown

the other

more

butter to

the rest of the batter, adding

as needed.

light

Turn and cook

the filling onto the crepes

them up, then cut each one

Ar-

in three parts.

chocolate

range them on a serving plate.

Top with

the

chopped

Mix

the hard-

semisweet chocolate.

DOLCE AMOR

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

HAZELNUT TRIFLE Soak

all

but

ladyfinger in the Marsala.

1

boiled yolks with the sugar, butter, hazelnuts, cocoa, and Zi lb. ladyfingers Zi

(about 30)

cup Marsala

6 yolks of large hard-boiled eggs 1

1

/a

tbsp. sugar

unsalted butter

Za lb. (1 stick)

1

ladyfinger; pass through a sieve

and blend

On

again.

a serving plate alternate layers of this mixture with layers

End

of ladyfingers.

spreading

it

with a layer of the egg mixture,

over the sides.

Top with almonds and

re-

few hours before serving.

frigerate for a

cups toasted and

chopped hazelnuts 1

tsp.

unsweetened cocoa powder 30 almonds, chopped

DOLCE CON MIELE

E

NOCI

TOSCANA

HONEY-NUT STICKS These resemble

sticks, but their dialect

name,

reflects a far-from-sweet reason, since 1

cup honey

3 cups all-purpose flour 1

Vz Za

cup (or

%

Zi

cups sugar

cup white wine

less) extra-virgin olive oil

lb.

walnuts, finely chopped

Grated zest of

1

orange

or clubs used to evict peasants

Combine

the

wine, olive

di

San Gimignano or

honey with the

oil,

flour, sugar, a

and a pinch of pepper in

a

pinch of salt,

deep saucepan.

Slowly cook the mixture until a thick batter has formed.

Combine cloves

Pinch ground cloves

shape

and pepper

fell

sfratti (“evicted”),

refers to the sticks

behind on their rent

Orvieto.

-Pinch ground cinnamon

Salt

who

payments. For the wine, use Vernaccia

it

the walnuts, orange zest, cinnamon,

and add it

to the

honey mixture. Let

into short sticks. Serve at

room

this cool,

and then

temperature.

DOLCE DEL PRINCIPE

LOMBARDIA

LAYERED SPONGE CAKE This recipe is

cup alchermes (see note, page 786) Zz

Zz Zz

cup cognac

cup plus 2 tbsp. rum

K2-lb. sponge

cake, cut

page

horizontally (see

in half

1

J^tbsp. sugar large egg yolk

6 oz. fresh

in

and the Milanese lowland and

means as

by no

is

elegant.

mind that the mascarpone mixture does not give

off

moisture so the slices of cake should be well soaked before assembling.

Mix

the alchermes, cognac, and

bowl and soak the sponge cake

fz

in

cup rum

Use

it.

in a shallow 1

slice

of the

843), or

ladyfingers

1

typical of Milan

is

the forerunner of tiramisu but

Bear

mascarpone

cake to line the bottom of a cake pan.

Beat the sugar

and egg yolk with a mixer on medium speed ened and pale yellow, then whisk the remaining rum.

Fill

the

in the

pan with

until thick-

mascarpone and this

mixture then

cover with the other half of the soaked sponge cake.

Wrap

the whole thing in plastic

at least

DOLCE

D

1

CASTAGNE

TOSCANA

Breadcrumbs 3 large eggs 1

% cups sugar

Juice of Zz

1

lemon

cup milk

3 cups chestnut flour,

Zz tsp. active

mixed with

!4

refrigerate for

Butter a baking pan and dust

it

with breadcrumbs. In a

bowl beat the eggs together with the sugar. Add the

lemon

juice

and mix again, then add the

chestnut flour and very slowly work ture.

Sift the

milk.

into the egg

mix-

Add the yeast dissolved in % cup warm water and

pinch of

salt.

spreading

it

for

Press the

to a

for 2 hours in a

Bake

it

dough

uniform thickness. Let

warm place.

40 minutes,

a

into the prepared pan, it

rise,

covered,

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

until lightly

browned.

more as needed

plus 1

wrap and

cold.

TUSCAN CHESTNUT LOAF large

Unsalted butter

24 hours. Serve

cup

dry yeast,

warm water Salt

DOLCE

Dl

MANDORLE

CAMPANIA

ALMOND CANDY Put the almonds and sugar this

3 cups

almonds

saucepan and bring

completely melts and coats the almonds.

Grease a work surface (preferably marble) with

CONTINUED oil

790

in a large

FOR persons

mixture to a boil over low heat, stirring constantly

until the sugar

2 cups sugar

e

and pour the mixture onto

it.

Level the surface

olive first

Olive 1

large lemon, cut

in

oil

half

Candy-coated almonds, crushed

using a lightly

wooden spoon and then smooth by rubbing

When

with the cut sides of the lemon.

cooled completely cut

it

it

it

has

and dust with candy-

in pieces

coated almonds.

DOLCE Dl MELE RENETTE ALLA VALDOSTANA

VALLE D'AOSTA

YALDOSTAN APPLE CAKE The dialect name for

comes from the

this, gato,

twelfth-

century word gastel, a modification of the word wastil, which 1

4

stick)

lb. (1

unsalted butter

cup sugar

Vi

4 ripe rennet apples, peeled, cored, and cut

in

France meant “food.”

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a pie pan. Sprinkle half the sugar over the apple

thin slices

in

bread

to butter the 10 slices stale white bread 2 large eggs, beaten 2 cups milk, mixed with

A cup

2

and use half of them

bottom of the pie pan. Cover with

butter

to line the

a layer of apple slices.

Dot the apples with the remaining butter. Repeat this op-

sugar

Mix

eration. Zi

Use some of the

slices.

slices

and milk mixture and pour

the eggs

cup chopped walnuts

this

into the pie pan.

Bake

invert onto a plate,

and decorate with the remaining sugar

for about

30 minutes.

Let cool,

and the walnuts.

DOLCE

ZUCCA

Dl

PIEMONTE

PUMPKIN CAKE Boil the

water, 3 1

A

lbs.

pumpkin or yellow winter

pumpkin or squash

and

6

pieces in the milk,

When

a pinch of salt in a pot.

tender, transfer

it

to a blender

FOR PERSONS

and puree

it,

Zz

cup

the squash

adding a

is

little

squash, peeled, seeded,

and cut

into pieces Zi

4tbsp.

cup milk

plus

(Zi stick)

1

tbsp.

unsalted butter

A cup

2

%

honey

cup all-purpose flour

2 large eggs, separated Zz

cup sugar Salt

of the cooking liquid

Return the puree

if necessary

to the pot.

butter, honey, a pinch of salt, until a

puree.

cook

homogeneous

to

form a smooth puree.

In a separate pot, heat the Z* cup warm water Add this to the squash

and

liquid forms.

Stirring constantly, gradually

until the

mixture

is

thick.

Let

it

add the

cool.

flour

and

Preheat the

oven to 350°F. Caramelize the baking pan: Spread out the sugar in the

oven.

Check

it

bottom of the cake pan and place

pan from the oven light

amber

color.

soon as the sugar has taken on a

as

Add

the egg yolks to the

mixture, then whip the whites until

them

into the mixture.

pan and bake

in the

every couple of minutes and remove the

for

stiff

Put the mixture

20 to 25 minutes. Let

pumpkin

and gently fold in the it

prepared

cool and turn

out on a serving plate.

791

DOLCETTI

CON L’UVA PASSA

CALABRIA

RAISIN COOKIES Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking sheet with butter. Soften the raisins in

Unsalted butter 1

2 V2 cups raisins 1

Zi

cups blanched almonds 1

Zi

5 minutes, then drain.

and chop together with

salt.

Zi tsp.

J4tsp.

1

lemon

ground cloves

and raisins, then mix

the walnuts

Mix into this enough honey and

dough.

Roll out this

and cut

ground cinnamon leaf,

Zi

to cover for

with the lemon zest, cloves, cinnamon, and a pinch of

cups walnut halves

Grated zest of

lukewarm water

Toast the almonds until golden

dough

into a

flour to

into squares. Place each square

it

make

a firm

somewhat thick sheet on

a

lemon

arrange on the baking sheet, and bake until golden.

cup honey (or as needed), warmed 2

A cup

all-purpose flour (or as needed)

Lemon

leaves Salt

MANDORLE

ALMOND COOKIES

CALABRIA

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cover a baking sheet with

Lard (or unsalted butter)

Toast the almonds on an ungreased baking sheet until

DOLCETTI

Dl

aluminum 2 lbs. blanched

almonds

6% cups all-purpose flour 3 % cups sugar 1

tbsp. baking

Zi

powder

foil,

golden and bine

let

with lard or butter.

to a sheet the thickness of a finger.

Roll out this

plus 6 tbsp.

unsalted butter 6 2A cups all-purpose flour

Sugar 8 large eggs, 4 separated

10 tbsp. milk

CONTINUED

792

and

about

1

dough

Cut the sheet of dough

and arrange them on the baking

Bake

sheet.

2 minutes.

CHRISTMAS SWEETS The dialect name cuzzupa

is

from the Greek. This type of

sweet, also part of the Greek and Jewish traditions, 34 lb. (1 stick)

Com-

the flour, sugar, baking powder,

water as needed to form a dough.

until golden,

CALABRIA

foil

stand until cool enough to handle.

them with

in squares

DOLCI N ATALIZI

then grease the

is

used

by Calabrians as devotional offerings on Christmas Day,

in

particular as gifts to loved ones.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking sheet with butter.

eggs to

Mix the flour and sugar and use it and 4 whole make a dough as in the recipe on page 751, add-

ing 4 egg yolks, butter, milk,

lemon and orange

baking powder with the whole eggs.

zest,

and

Divide the dough

tbsp.

1 lemon lemon juice

Grated zest

orange

Grated zest of plus

A

of.1

VHsp. baking powder

1

3

1

lb.

confectioners’ sugar

and give the pieces the desired shape (doughnuts, knots, bowties, fish, etc.). Beat 2 of the eggs whites until frothy

Bake

and brush the cookies with them. about

until golden,

Meanwhile, make the glaze by ener-

0 minutes.

1

remaining egg whites, con-

getically beating together the

and lemon

fectioners’ sugar,

the cookies are golden, brush

juice until

When

smooth.

them with the

glaze

and

let

rest until dry.

FARTAIES

VENETO

GRAPPA FRITTER The success of the fartaies consists ter,

3 large eggs 2 tbsp.

sugar

35$ cups all-purpose flour Zi

cup milk (or as needed) Y*

cup grappa

Grated zest of 1

litsp. baking 14

powder

cup sunflower

1

lemon

(optional)

oil

which should be neither too

Put the eggs, sugar,

flour, a

in

liquid

the density of the bat-

nor too thick.

pinch of

salt,

and

much

as

milk as needed in a bowl and whisk this mixture to a

smooth

batter;

baking powder

if

lard) in a frying circles,

add the grappa and lemon

beginning

bottom, then turn

(or lard) it

puff up.

Confectioners’ sugar els,

desired)

Heat the sunflower

.

pan and pour

make

zest (also the (or

oil

in the batter in concentric

at the center.

Cook until golden on the make

over to cook the other side and

it

Remove from

the pan, drain

on paper tow-

and dust with confectioners’ sugar. Serve warm.

Salt

FICHI AL

CIOCCOLATO

CALABRIA

FIGS oven,

3 cups almonds, lightly toasted in

the oven and chopped 1

1

1

lb.

Yi

tbsp. cloves, crushed

cups diced candied citron

semisweet chocolate, grated 1

1

tsp.

Zi

cups sugar

in

a

little

to put the figs, just

is

saucepan

in

water with

removed from the

which the chocolate has been melted

a pinch of

cinnamon.

Mix

the almonds, cloves,

candied citron and set aside.

Mix the

and cinnamon and

Cut open the

them with them on

ground cinnamon lbs.

in a

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

color 4^2

WITH CHOCOLATE

Another method

sun-dried figs

the

set aside.

almond mixture. Close them

a baking sheet,

and

chocolate, sugar, figs

and

tightly,

fill

put

and bake. As soon as they change

remove them from the oven and, while they are

still

warm,

figs

can be kept

roll

them in

an

in the chocolate mixture.

These

airtight container lined with

waxed

paper.

793

LOCAL TRADITION

FERRATELLE ALLO ZAFFERANO These cookies, typical of L'Aquila to cook them.

In

Abruzzo, are called ferratelle after the iron used

in

the past, and to a certain degree also today, families "personalized”

their iron with the family coat of arms, the

some

monogram

of the

special design that served as a distinctive element. A

head of the household, or

dough

eggs, then flavored with saffron, sugar, and orange liqueur.

It

is

is

made

of flour

and

divided into cylinders

that are cut into 1-inch lengths. These lengths are then cooked, one by one,

in

the hot

How do you know how long it takes to cook them? Say the When you are halfway through, it is time to flip the cookie. When

oiled iron in the fireplace.

"Ave Maria” prayer.

you are finished with the prayer, the cookie

fichi ripieni

CALABRIA

I

is

done.

STUFFED FIGS For the wine, use Moscato

di Pantelleria

or Malvasia della

Lipari. Vi

1

1

1

A 1

cups chopped almonds

A

cups chopped walnuts

cups grated

bitter chocolate

cup chopped candied citron

% cup sugar Pinch cinnamon (or

Preheat the oven to 350°F. chocolate,

and

cinnamon

(or cloves)

and

Mix

the almonds, walnuts,

citron until blended.

and

stuff them with the

Mix Cut

set aside.

the sugar the figs

almond mixture, then

close them,

dust with the sugar mixture, sprinkle with sweet wine, and

dry them in the oven for

1

These can be pre-

0 minutes.

ground cloves)

served by wrapping groups of them in bay leaves. 4/2

lbs.

They

sun-dried figs

can also be preserved 1

and

open

in containers lined with

wax

paper.

cup sweet white wine Fresh bay leaves

FOCACCIA

DI

SEIRASS

(RICOTTA)

PIEMONTE

FOCACCIA WITH RICOTTA Preheat the oven to 425°F. Butter and flour a baking pan.

Unsalted butter, for buttering

Combine

drained

the flour, ricotta, sugar,

raisins,

and chocolate

in a

lemon

bowl

zest, yeast,

until blended;

the baking pan let this 1

'A

CONTINUED

794

mixture rest for 30 minutes in a cool place.

cups all-purpose flour

Spread the mixture across the baking pan.

Bake for

)

7 oz. firm ricotta 1

'A

(

Grated zest of 1

Zi

cup

seirass

cups sugar

Zi tsp. active

1

lemon

about

1

hour

until golden.

has cooled, turn

Let cool

in the pan.

When

it

out on a serving plate and dust with

it

confectioners’ sugar.

dry yeast

soaked in rum, an equal amount

raisins,

diluted with

of water, Zi

and drained

cup grated chocolate Confectioners’ sugar

FOCACCIA PASQUALE

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

EASTER FOCACCIA Dissolve the yeast in the milk with

and enough 4/2 tsp. active dry yeast

3tbsp. milk

% cup sugar 6

V3 cups all-purpose flour 4 large eggs plus 8 yolks

O/2 cup) plus 3 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened Z* lb.

2 tbsp.

rum

2 tbsp. Marsala 1

tsp. vanilla extract

Grated zest of Grated zest of

1

1

lemon orange Salt

FRAPPE OR CHIACCHIERE DELLE MONACHE

LOMBARDIA

risen

combine

sugar,

% cup

flour to

form

flour to

make

it

with

1

large egg plus 2 yolks Olive

oil,

for frying

Confectioners’ sugar Salt

teaspoon of the sugar

when

egg and 3 yolks,

1

of the butter, a pinch of a soft

about 2 hours add

dough. Let

knead on the work surface Divide the dough in two classic flat focaccia

this loaf

Vi

salt,

and enough After

this rise again.

to obtain

balls.

shape and

an

elastic

Shape these let

them

has

cup of the

the remaining ingredients

all

and

dough.

balls into the

rise again.

Pre-

heat the oven to 350°F. Before putting the focaccias in the oven in thirds.

make deep Put

in the

incisions in

them

to divide

them

oven and bake 45 minutes, lower-

ing the temperature to 300°F and covering the focaccias

with aluminum

foil

halfway through that time.

NUNS’ FRITTERS FOR CARNIVAL This

a classic Carnival sweet.

is

fat for the frying, but

3/3 cups all-purpose flour

1

a small loaf;

it

is

Some

recipes use lard as the

not a traditional component

in

Milanese cooking.

Use the recipe

cut

it

flour, egg,

and yolks

dough

a thin sheet of

in squares with a pastry wheel, also

nal cuts inside the squares. a

to prepare a

on page 751. Roll out

saucepan and fry

as in the

dough and

making diago-

Heat 2 inches of olive

until golden.

oil in

Drain on paper towels

and dust with confectioners’ sugar. Serve

hot.

795

BUTTER CRUMBLE

FREGOLOTTA

VENETO %

stick)

lb. (1

A ]

A cup

Grated zest of

1

typical of Salvarosa di Castelfranco.

it

that call for the addition of chopped almonds

in

eggs to the mixture.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Butter and flour a 12-inch-

sugar

Mix

square baking pan.

lemon

and

through a food

in slices while

be no more than

1

ALTO ADIGE

Stir briskly,

then pour

mill,

and cut

%

lemon

the butter, sugar,

flour until blended.

until set

FRITTATA DELL'IMPERATORE

There are

place of the butter. Another version: add the yolks

of 2 hard-boiled

cups all-purpose flour 2

is

versions of or lard

unsalted butter,

melted 1

This recipe

it

still

into the pan.

is

Bake

hot. The slices should

inch thick.

EMPEROR’S FRITTATA This

zest,

pass the mixture

a one-dish dessert that is

FOR persons

2

economical and easy to

prepare. 8 large eggs, separated

Lightly beat the egg yolks in a large bowl and slowly

6 tbsp. all-purpose flour, sifted

add the

2 tbsp. sugar Zz

(or as

many as

sifted flour, a

pinch of

salt,

and

sugar,

beating the mixture energetically with a whisk.

cup raisins

the egg whites until

and

stiff

fold

them

raisins,

Whip

gently into the

desired)

In a large

batter.

skillet

heat the butter until bubbling.

tbsp. unsalted butter

1

Pour

in the batter

and cook

it

on one

side then turn

and

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

cook the

other.

Using two forks

tear

up

this

omelet

Red currant jam

and serve

it

hot, dusted with confectioners’ sugar

and

Salt

topped with jam.

FRITTELLE

BASILICATA

1

SEMOLINA FRITTERS Grease a baking pan with

olive

oil.

Combine

water in a saucepan with 3 tablespoons olive Extra-virgin olive 1

VA

oil

bay leaf

cups all-purpose flour

Zz

cup coarse semolina Confectioners’ sugar Salt

of

salt,

and the bay

leaf

a pinch

When

to a boil.

mixture boils remove the pan from the heat and add at

once the flour and the semolina,

wooden spoon.

Return the pan

constantly stirring.

When

the all

stirring briskly with a

to the heat

the mixture

is

and cook,

smooth and

compact, remove the bay leaf and pour the mixture into the greased pan. Let

Heat 2 inches of

796

and bring

3 cups of

oil,

it

cool, then cut

olive oil in a

pan and

it

into squares.

fry until golden.

Drain them on paper towels, then arrange on a serving plate

FRITTELLE

CON LO ZIBIBBO

I

LAZIO

and dust with confectioners’ sugar. Serve

RAISIN FRITTERS This recipe

is

typical of

Rome. Zibibbo, by way

word, means “raisin.” Pine nuts can be added 1

Zi tsp. active

dry yeast

cup

warmed

1

milk,

many

to blend, adding the flour a

firm and

homogeneous

as desired)

doubled.

Grated zest of

1

1

and lemon and orange

sugar, raisins,

3tbsp. sugar

Grated zest of

lemon

Heat

1

oil,

oil

Stir this

this rise until nearly

in a

saucepan and fry

them

Drain on paper towels, then brush

with

rum and

dust with confectioners’ sugar. These are

most

flavorful

when

for frying

Ya

Let

batter.

zests.

time to obtain a

at a

tablespoonfuls of the batter, swirling the pan to give

orange

% cup all-purpose flour Olive

little

inch of olive

a spherical shape. Vi to

an Arabic

addition to

Dissolve the yeast in the milk and add the beaten eggs,

cup golden raisins

(or as

of in

the raisins.

3 large eggs, beaten

Zi

hot.

eaten warm.

cup rum

Confectioners’ sugar

FRITTELLE Dl

CASTAGNACCIO

I

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

CHESTNUT FRITTERS Pour the chestnut vanilla extract,

3

cups chestnut flour

Vz cup raisins, softened

flour into a

soft batter; set this aside

in

Heat

bowl and add the

and enough water and

make

to

let it rest for a

olive oil (or lard) in a skillet

and

a

raisins,

somewhat

few hours.

fry the batter

1

water and dried

tablespoon at a time until puffed and golden. 1

fritters are Vi

As the

tsp. vanilla extract

cup extra-virgin

ready set them out on paper towels to drain

olive oil

and serve hot with

(or lard)

a dusting of confectioners’ sugar.

Confectioners’ sugar

FRITTELLE

Dl

MELE

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

I

APPLE FRITTERS Various kinds of fruit can be fried

in this

kind of batter, such

as plums, prunes, peaches, pears, bananas, apricots, and so on. The batter can be

eggs, olive

oil,

made

and rum

—or

with yeast it

—

flour, milk, yeast,

can be made with only flour

and wine.

797

% cup all-purpose flour 1

Z3 cup sugar 1

1

tbsp. olive 1

more

plus

oil,

tbsp.

rum

for frying

large egg, separated, plus

1

yolk

Lemon juice, as needed 4 large apples, peeled, cored, and cut crosswise

in

/2-inch-thick

Make

a batter with the flour,

and egg

Whisk

yolks.

egg white to

Vi

cup sugar, rum,

the egg white until

the. batter,

working

in

it

stiff.

olive oil,

Add

the

spoonful by spoon-

Mix the remaining sugar and enough lemon juice make a mixture the consistency of wet sand. Roll the

ful.

to

apple

sugar mixture, then dip them one at a

slices in the

time in the batter and fry in

oil until

golden. Serve dusted

slices

with confectioners’ sugar.

Confectioners’ sugar

FRITTELLE Dl MELE AL MOSCATO

LOMBARDIA

APPLE FRITTERS

WITH MOSCATO WINE Prepare a batter with the egg, a pinch of

salt,

and

Moscato. Add the baking powder and the honey, then 1

Zi

cup Moscato wine (preferably from the Oltrepo Pavese area) 1

1

large egg

tsp.

baking powder

tbsp. honey, preferably acacia Extra-virgin olive

oil,

this rest for

about 30 minutes.

Dip the apple

hot.

in the batter

and

slices

one

Heat the at a

let

olive oil until

time in the flour, then

fry until golden.

Serve hot, dusted

with confectioners’ sugar.

for frying

4 large apples (best would be

from the

Valtellina), peeled,

cored, and sliced 1

%

cups all-purpose flour Confectioners’ sugar Salt

FRITTELLE

Dl

PANE

CARASAU

SARDEGNA

PANE CARASAU FRITTERS This recipe

typical of Nuoro.

is

Music-paper bread

is

a

cracker-thin flatbread typical of Sardinia. 2 1

/3

cups all-purpose flour 3 large eggs

Milk

Pane carasau (music-paper bread, see note), crumbled, as needed

Knead

warm it

rest a

ter to

the flour with the eggs, a

salted water.

few minutes.

make

it

little

milk,

and

a

little

When the batter is soft but thick let Add

very dense.

the pane carasau to the bat-

Heat

1

inch of olive

oil in

a

pan. Using a spoon scoop out walnut-size balls and fry Extra-virgin olive

oil,

for frying

When

them.

golden, remove with a slotted spoon and

Honey

drain

on paper

Salt

honey.

798

towels. Serve hot, drizzled with a

little

RICE FRITTERS FOR SAINT JOSEPH'S DAY

FRITTELLE Dl RISO D SAN GIUSEPPE 1

Throughout the Viterbo area these

LAZIO

on 1

cups superfine rice

Yi

St.

milk diluted with a

Grated zest of

1

add the

and

orange

3tbsp.

peanut

oil,

and

salt if desired. Its

be that of a somewhat dense

powder

In a deep

peanut

oil until

Confectioners’ sugar

on

this batter to all

milk. In a

zests,

bowl

make

let

rum,

until stiff

consistency should

Let

it

rest

about an

or fryer heat 2 inches olive or

fritters.

drop

in egg-size scoops

When

they have cooked

and are golden brown, remove with a

sides

Salt

spoon and

skillet

batter.

hot, then carefully

for frying

of

salt

rice cool.

Incorporate the rice and add

fold into the mixture.

hour. tbsp. baking

V2 cup

cinnamon, lemon and orange

raisins,

2 tsp. vanilla extract 1

water and

and baking powder. Whip the egg whites

additional sugar

rum

little

and let the

the 3 egg yolks together with the milk mixture, then

vanilla,

lemon

simi-

frittellaro.

Dissolve the flour and sugar in

work

ground cinnamon 1

Joseph

until tender; drain, reserving the milk,

cup golden raisins, in wine to soften

many

of Italy’s regions that the saint

has been nicknamed

Grated zest of

Olive or

many

so

prepared

rice fritters are

celebrated with so

Cook the rice in the

3 large eggs, separated

tsp.

in

is

cups milk

Vi

soaked 1

sweets

lar fried

% cup sugar, or as needed 1

Joseph’s Day, which

all-purpose flour

1

%cup

St.

slotted

dry on paper towels. Before serving dust

with confectioners’ sugar and serve hot.

FRITTELLE DOLCI

CALABRIA

1

POTATO FRITTERS These sweet

fritters

are a traditional dish on Christmas Eve.

Peel the potatoes and boil 1

lb.

potatoes

3 tsp. active dry yeast,

dissolved

in

lukewarm water

3/3 cups all-purpose flour Olive

oil,

for frying

Confectioners’ sugar

completely, then put the yeast.

Knead

them

this

ders a 1

Salt

to

Drain them

a potato ricer.

Add

mixture to obtain a soft dough,

then add the flour with a

pinch of

until tender.

them through

little

lukewarm water and

a

Knead the dough and shape into cylinmore than V2 inch in diameter and about

salt.

little

foot long. Join the ends of each of these long cylinders

form

thin doughnuts. Let

cloth, for several hours.

fry until they are so puffed

them

rise,

covered by a

Heat 2 inches of

up they double

olive oil

their

and

volume.

Drain on paper towels and dust them with confectioners’

sugar before serving.

799

.

MILK FRITTERS

FRITTI D LATTE 1

ABRUZZO

This recipe

typical of Torricella

is

Whisk together the 1

3 1

plus

A cups

more

cups sugar

Vi

and lemon

all-purpose flour,

Grated zest of 1

1

forms a paste.

Put

mixture in a saucepan and

this

of

Olive oil

%

inch. Let

it

and spread out

them

breadcrumbs

Cut the paste

until

Salt

Beat the egg

into small squares, dip

then in egg whites, and

in flour,

crumbs. Heat 2 inches of olive

(optional)

it

this paste to a thickness

cool for about 5 hours.

whites until frothy.

3 large egg whites

stirring until

Grease a work surface (preferably mar-

ble) with olive oil

4 cups milk

Rum

to the sugar mixture, stirring to avoid the

cook over low heat for a few minutes,

lemon

tsp. vanilla extract

Fine

and Montorio.

sugar, flour, cinnamon, a pinch of salt,

formation of lumps.

Pinch ground cinnamon

persons

zest in a saucepan. Stir the vanilla into the

add

milk, then

for clipping the fritters

io

oil in

finally in the

bread-

Fry the

fritters

a pan.

golden and drain on paper towels. Serve

at

room

temperature (they are exceptional drizzled with rum)

RICOTTA CHEESECAKE

FROSCIA 0 MALASSATA

This recipe

SICILIA

typical of Gela. This Easter

is

ancient origins. The 1

lb.

cilia,

2 cups sugar

14

Mix

cups grated fresh

caciocavallo cheese

20 mint leaves

(if

most

of

all in

together

crumbs)

in

all

the ingredients

if

needed

in

western

Si-

ing pan and top with

I

(except the bread-

to stiffen the .

Pour

dough

is

Add

slightly

this into the

more breadcrumbs.

remove when the surface

MARCHE

meaning “limp”

the interior of the island.

should be wet but not runny)

needed)

FRUSTINGO

sweet has very

made

such a manner to make a wet dough.

breadcrumbs

Pinch ground pepper

Breadcrumbs

froscia, or floscia,

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a round baking pan.

10 large eggs, beaten 1

name

or “soft,” refers to a particular version

ricotta

(it

bak-

Bake and

golden.

FRUITCAKE WITH NUTS Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease a pie pan with olive

oil.

Boil the figs in water until they soften completely. Re1

14

cups extra-virgin 1

soaked

A cup golden

2

in

lb.

olive oil

dried

figs,

sugar,

the water, chop, and add the raisins, honey,

lemon

(or orange) zest, candied fruit (if desired),

nutmeg, and cinnamon. raisins,

soaked

Toast the almonds, finely chop

in

lukewarm water, drained, and dried

CONTINUED

800

move from

water overnight

together with the walnuts, and add to the

Knead

fig

mixture.

the mixture together with the olive

oil until

A cup

2

Bake

blended. Pour the mixture into the pie pan.

honey

% cup sugar

it

has a good golden color. Serve at

until

room temperature.

Grated lemon (or oi'&nge) zest

Candied

fruit (optional)

Pinch grated nutmeg Pinch ground cinnamon

%cup

almonds

% cup walnut halves

FRUTTARA

Dl

CAMPAGNA

VENETO

I

POLENTA FRUITCAKE Preheat the oven to 300°F or light a

down A cups

2

1

cornmeal

% cup all-purpose flour Zi

Zi

cup raisins

cup pine nuts

Zi

cup chopped dried 34

1

cups sugar

Grated zest of 2 apples, peeled, cored, 1

Zi

figs

1

orange

grill

and

let it

Use

the cornmeal, a pinch of

5 cups water to

make

a polenta as in the recipe

289, but cook

just until

to embers.

15 minutes.

it

it is

Remove from

burn

salt,

and

on page

beginning to soften, about

the heat and

stir in

the re-

maining ingredients except the coarse sugar; transfer

Cook

the mixture to a baking pan.

oven for about

1

!4

hours, until

over coals or in the

After baking sprinkle

set.

with coarse sugar.

and minced

cups plus 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

Breadcrumbs Coarse sugar Salt

GASSE

LIGURIA

FRIED KNOTS This recipe

is

typical of the Valle Bormida. To

make them

puffy and crumbly, so that they almost melt in the mouth, 3/3 cups all-purpose flour large egg

1

2tbsp. unsalted butter Zi

cup sugar

Zi

Olive

oil,

cup milk

for frying

Confectioners’ sugar

use only a

Use

little

the flour

butter, a single egg,

and egg to prepare

on page 751, adding the egg.

and a

Roll out to

little

dough

butter, sugar,

The dough should be

appearance.

a

sugar.

as in the recipe

and milk with the

firm and soft, with a smooth

form

a pastry wheel cut strips of

a very thin sheet.

dough

1

8 inches long then cross the ends to form knots

Heat 2 inches of golden.

olive oil in a

Using

inch wide and 6 to (gasse ).

saucepan and fry

until

Drain them on paper towels and dust with

confectioners’ sugar.

801

CHOCOLATE ROLLED CAKE

GATTO

TOSCANA

This recipe ing,

1

1

2

oz.

% cups sugar

sight. Roll

Line a

bittersweet chocolate, chopped

1

%

more

varied to both taste and

with confectioners’

roll

jelly roll

pan with

a sheet of wax paper, letting the

ends extend above the pan. Butter the wax paper. Pre-

tbsp. milk

tbsp. heavy

a filling

in

up the cake. Dust the

sugar or pour over whipped cream.

baking powder

1

typical of Arezzo. As an alternative: After bak-

cover half the cake with chocolate sauce and put plain

cream. This results

cup all-purpose flour Zi tsp.

FOR PERSONS

pastry cream on the other half and cover with a light layer of

6 large eggs, separated

Vz

is

6

cream

cup alchermes

(see note, page 786)

the egg yolks until pale

separately,

Confectioners’ sugar

Whip medium speed

heat the oven to 450°F.

with a mixer on

whip the egg whites

until

stiff.

and sugar

and very

thick;

Fold the whites

into the yolks, then fold in the flour very slowly to avoid

lumps. the

Add

Pour the mixture

the baking powder.

pan and

level

it

off.

The

tom without being more than

Vz

inch in depth. Bake for

Melt the chocolate

5 minutes.

make

a

double

in the top of a

boiler until smooth. Gradually stir in the milk to

into

batter should cover the bot-

and cream

smooth sauce. Take the pan out of the oven

and immediately

the cake out of the

lift

pan by grasping

wax paper. Put the cake on a damp dishcloth paper-side up and let stand until cool enough to handle. Carefully peel off the waxed paper. Sprinkle the ends of the

the cake with alchermes then spread

it

with the chocolate

mixture. Starting at a short end and using the cloth as a guide,

roll

up

Dust with confectioners’ sugar

the cake.

before serving.

Dl ARANCE SANG-SANG

GELATINA

SICILIA

I

BLOOD-ORANGE GELATIN The gelatin of

Sicilian

oz. gelatin,

1

soaked

in

cold water

and drained 2 cups sugar

Vh cups juice of blood oranges, mixed with the juice of 4 lemons Yi

Sliced oranges

cup rum

and strawberries for garnish

is

a variation of the gelatin

sweet mandarins for the juice of the blood oranges. Add the

lemon juice and the rum. The two gelatins can be served gether

in

matching containers; the difference

them spectacular. usual

fruit,

This

is

an excellent dessert

in in

color

to-

makes

place of the

which can also be served along with this

gelatin.

Indeed, you can use a round mold with a hole at the center to

make the

Wipe

gelatin

and then

the inside of a

Heat the drained

802

mandarins

proceed as below, substituting the juice of

of blood oranges:

fill

the center with fruit salad.

mold with

gelatin

a

and sugar

damp paper

to melt

towel.

them, but do

not

let

taste)

.

the mixture boil (which

Remove from

rum. Pour

this into the

mold and

Using a warm cloth unmold the color that

would give

the heat and

mix

it

a bitter

in the juice

and

refrigerate until set.

gelatin onto a plate of a

complements the color of the oranges. Gar-

nish with slices of orange and strawberry.

GELO

WATERMELON ICE

COCOMERO

Dl

Make the essence

SICILIA

flowers 1

quart watermelon juice 1

and cornstarch

jasmine by soaking a bunch of jasmine

to obtain a

add the cinnamon

a saucepan,

stick,

(see note) it

cinnamon

1

thicken, stirring continuously.

oz.

Pour

and cook

When

this into

to

make

thickened, re-

stick

move from the 4

juice with the sugar

smooth and homogeneous

mixture, adding the essence of jasmine.

essence of jasmine

tsp.

of

water for 2 hours.

Thoroughly blend the watermelon

cup sugar

cup cornstarch

Vi 1

in a little

heat and pour into small molds garnished

chocolate chips

with chocolate chips, pistachios, and candied pumpkin. Vs

cup chopped pistachios

Refrigerate Vs

and serve

cold.

cup diced candied pumpkin (see note, page 787)

LOCAL TRADITION

GELATINE

Dl

FICHI D'INDIA

Typical of Ponza in Lazio, this sugarless dessert

is

made

by slow-cooking the pulp of

the sun-ripened prickly pears that grow wild on the island. The cooked pulp

through a is

fine sieve to

remove the many small seeds. Back on the

added to thicken the

that

is

pulp. This second, longer cooking results in a

then spread on a table to dry

lozenges and further dried

most often stored

in tightly

in

in

an oven

is

passed

heat, semolina flour

dense cream

the sun, after which the pulp can be cut into if still

too

soft.

These “gummy” sweets were

sealed glass jars.

803

GELO

D

MANDARINO

I

SICILIA

MANDARIN GELATIN Remove

the peel from

14

mandarin oranges

cup plus 3 tbsp. cornstarch

% cup sugar Mandarin leaves Seasonal

fruit for

decoration

(strawberries, apricots, pears, cherries, or others)

pith,

and

slice.

Squeeze the man-

Add enough water to make a

darins through a strainer.

of 4 cups liquid and using a whisk

total

formation of lumps)

FOR PERSONS

mandarin, making sure not to

1

remove the bitter white 15

6

stir

the cornstarch

(to

avoid the

and sugar

the liquid, then pass the mixture through a sieve.

into

Pour

the resulting mixture in a saucepan and add the slices of

mandarin cook

peel. Stirring constantiy with a

until

mandarin

it

wooden spoon,

begins to boil, at which point remove the

Pour

peel.

refrigerator for a

damp mold and

into a

cool in the

few hours. At the moment of serving

turn out on a serving plate and decorate with mandarin leaves

and seasonal

fruit as desired.

CORNMEAL RAISIN GIALLETTI

LAZIO

COOKIES Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking sheet with lard.

3 oz. lard 1

2

h cups

cornmeal

h cup all-purpose flour

Mix

together the cornmeal and flour and use

and the eggs

to

make

dough

a

as in the recipe

them

on page

751, adding the butter, sugar, lemon zest, and lard with

2

2 large eggs, beaten plus 3 tbsp.

14 lb. (1 stick)

Fold in the

the eggs

raisins so that they are

distributed in the mixture. to the thickness of

about

%

Roll

it

uniformly

out with a rolling pin

inch. With a knife cut length-

unsalted butter, softened

wise into 1

14

Grated zest of

1

h cup

2

lemon

1

CALABRIA cups all-purpose flour tbsp. extra-virgin

plus olive

oil

oil

HONEYED GNOCCHI December

traditional on

This

is

Use

the flour to

make

13, feast

dough

a

day of

St. Lucy.

as in the recipe

on page

wine, cinnamon, and orange zest

751, using the olive

oil,

in place of the eggs.

The

resulting

dough should be

soft.

for frying

CONTINUED

Form eter

the

and cut

dough it

into a cylinder about

in pieces,

Heat 2 inches of olive

804

Ar-

range these on the baking sheet and bake until cooked

through and golden, about 10 minutes.

GNOCCHETTI

1

then cut crosswise into squares.

raisins

RICOPERTI D MIELE

33/3

strips,

cups sugar

making them oil in

a

1

inch in diam-

into large gnocchi.

pan and

fry the gnocchi

.

1

cup white dessert wine (preferably Moscato) Pinch ground-cinnamon

Grated zest and juice from 1

14

GNOCCHI

D

1

orange

cups honey

SUSINE

I

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

honey

J

dry yeast

Vi tsp. active

4 cup sugar, or as needed 4/2 cups all-purpose flour 2 large eggs 1

cup milk

3 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

10 plums (preferably Italian or

Santa Rosa), pitted and cut 1

in half

tbsp.

lengthwise

breadcrumbs

Add

melts.

ture, stir to coat,

pan and simmer,

stirring, until the

the fried gnocchi to the

honey mix-

then arrange them on a serving plate.

Serve hot.

PLUM GNOCCHI In a large bowl dissolve the yeast in

with 1

Meanwhile put the honey and orange

until golden.

juice in a separate

tablespoon sugar and

1

A cup warm water

l

tablespoon

1

In a

flour.

separate bowl beat the eggs with another tablespoon

sugar then add the milk,

remaining

flour.

form dough;

Add

set aside

and

in the

remaining sugar.

Take

1

a

tablespoon of the butter, and

1

this to the yeast

plum

Bring a pot of water

tablespoon of the dough and wrap

plum

half,

float

to

halves

to a boil.

it

around

pinching the seam to seal completely.

Immerse the whole thing gnocchi

and knead well

Roll the

let rise.

in boiling water.

they are done.

the remaining butter in a

add the gnocchi and

Drain them

When

well.

the

Heat

pan and toast the breadcrumbs;

toss to coat.

Dust with sugar and

serve hot.

GRANO

DEI

MORTI

PUGLIA

WHEAT-BERRY PUDDING This recipe

is

typical of Foggia. This dessert

2 made

is

for the

celebration of the Day of the Dead. 1

lb.

Seeds of

%

1

wheat berries

pomegranate

cup shelled and chopped walnuts 3

A cup chopped

Vs

chocolate

cup chopped candied citron 1

cinnamon

broken

stick,

Soak the wheat berries

in

the refrigerator, then boil

and

cool.

When

lukewarm water

them for about

they have cooled add

1

for 2 days in

hour.

all

gredients except the vin cotto , then, at the serving,

add vin

stiffen the

cotto as desired (if

added

Drain

the other in-

moment

earlier

it

of

will

mixture)

into pieces

2 or 3 tbsp. sugar fin

l

cotto (see note, page 818)

805

GUBANA FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

FRIULIAN FILLED CAKE Use

the flour to

make

dough

a

as in the recipe

on page

751, using V2 cup water and the butter in place of the For the dough: 1

% cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed

tbsp. unsalted butter, plus

1

more

for the

pan

The dough

eggs.

will

be

Let

soft.

it

rest

30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour a baking sheet. Roll out the

make

it

dough

to

form

a very thin sheet to

Combine

nearly transparent.

all

ingredients except the egg yolk. Spread the For the 1

Yi

cups

raisins,

soaked

in

filling:

grappa,

one edge of the dough, then

large salame shape, curving in

or Marsala and drained

slivovitz,

1

Ya 1

tbsp.

down

up the dough

its

to

ends to form a

form

a

spiral.

reserved egg yolk. Bake for 45 minutes, or until golden.

cup pine nuts

cup chopped dried

Vi

filling

filling

on the baking sheet and brush with the

Place 2 cups chopped walnuts

roll

of the

figs

cup chopped prunes

chopped candied

citron

% cup grated chocolate Yi

cup breadcrumbs,

fried in unsalted butter

Grated zest of Grated zest of

1

1

lemon orange

1 large egg separated, egg white whipped stiff

Salt

KAISERSCHMARRN

VENETO

APPLE-RAISIN PANCAKES Serve with red currant or lingonberry jam son, cherries cooked

5 large eggs

3 tbsp. sugar

3/3 cups all-purpose flour Milk

4 apples, peeled, cored,

and cut

cup lard (or

olive

oil

or unsalted butter) Salt

blended, then whisk in the flour and milk to

what liquid, smooth, and homogeneous apple 1

slices

and

raisins to the batter

tablespoon lard, olive

tom

in

sea-

oil,

make

batter.

and mix

a

some-

Add the

well.

or butter in a cast-iron

Heat skillet

up

some of the Vs

batter,

inch.

enough

to cover the bot-

Cook until golden brown

it

over to cook the other side. Break

into small pieces.

Transfer these pieces to a bowl

on one it

in

to a thickness of

side then flip

and repeat with the remaining

from time

806

when

into thin slices

cup raisins, soaked in warm water until soft and drained Ya

or,

their juice.

Beat the eggs with the sugar and a pinch of salt until well

and pour Yi

in

to time.

batter, oiling the

pan again

LE

KNODEL CON ALBICOCCHE

APRICOT DUMPLINGS

ALTO ADIGE

Some people today place of

2 1

potatoes (best

lbs.

if

starchy)

% cups all-purpose flour, sifted 3 large eggs

A

lb. (1

stick) plus 6 tbsp.

insert a sugar cube inside each apricot

especially

its pit,

if

Boil the potatoes until tender then peel them, pass

through a potato

and put the puree on

a

them

work

sur-

When the potato puree has cooled, add the

face to cool. flour, eggs,

ricer,

in

the apricots are not totally ripe.

1

tablespoon butter, and a pinch of

salt

and

unsalted butter

knead

to

form

a

smooth dough

that

is

not

Shape

sticky.

16 apricots, pitted

% cup breadcrumbs

the

dough

into a long cylinder

and cut

this into sixteen

Push down on each length

6-inch lengths. Sugar

large rectangle then place

Ground cinnamon

form a

to

an apricot in the middle of each.

Using floured hands close over the dough

to

form each

Salt

rectangle into a

drop

ball.

Bring salted water to a boil and

in the apricot balls,

cooking them until they

then setting them out to drain.

float,

Meanwhile melt the

remaining butter in a saucepan. When the butter begins to

brown add

the breadcrumbs,

stir,

and

minute

after a

or two add the cooked apricot dumplings, rolling

around with a wooden spoon

to uniformly coat

them

them.

Serve hot with a dusting of sugar and cinnamon.

KNODEL CON

LE

MELE

ALTO ADIGE

APPLE DUMPLINGS Put the apples little salt.

2

lbs.

apples, peeled,

Mix

ture into balls

in a to

bowl and add the eggs,

form a

and

boil

dough.

soft

them

flour,

Shape

this

and a mix-

in lightly salted water for 8

cored, and chopped

to 2 large 1

A

1

0 minutes, until they

float.

Heat the butter

in a pan,

eggs

add the breadcrumbs and sugar, and

stir

to mix.

Add the

cups all-purpose flour

apple dumplings, rolling them around to coat thoroughly. Vi

cup unsalted butter

2 tbsp.

breadcrumbs 2 tbsp. sugar

Serve hot.

LOCAL TRADITION

CHOCOLATE Chocolate

the primary ingredient

is

in

of the traditional

area. This should surprise no one since not far of chocolate.”

the

New

Sandro Doglio relates that the

World, not long after

its

PIEMONTE

IN

many

away

Turin,

is

sweets of the Canavese

renowned as the

chocolate beans to reach

first

discovery, arrived

from

Turin from the Madrid court

in

1559. Records indicate that by the opening years of the 1600s

founded

“capital

Italy

in

companies had been

Turin for the production and sale of chocolate, then used exclusively as a

in

beverage. During the second half of that century chocolate en pastille appeared, as well as en liqueur. By the end of the century Turin

birthplace of chocolate bars, such that

in

same

period, a creation

of choco-

was the

the early nineteenth century even the famous

Swiss chocolatiers did their apprenticeships during that

was producing 750 pounds

exports to Austria, Switzerland, Germany, and France. Turin

late a day, with

in Turin,

the

city

which invented Gianduja

which hazelnut powder took the place of some

in

which had become harder to come by because of an English naval

of the chocolate,

blockade. Not even the arrival of coffee

managed

to affect the deeply rooted taste for

chocolate, leading to the creation of bicerin, a beverage combining milk, chocolate, and

Dumas

coffee. Alexandre it

pere,

who

was something he "would never

late

companies

in

arrived

in

Piemonte

in

1

859,

wrote of this treat that

forget.” Even today there are large

and small choco-

Piemonte, evidence of the continuation of a taste and a tradition.

LASAGNE DA FORNEL

VENETO

I

SWEET LASAGNE Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF.

Mix

together the flours and

use them and the eggs to prepare a dough as in the 1

14 1

cups all-purpose flour 14

cups semolina flour 3 large eggs

14 lb. (1 stick)

plus 6 tbsp.

recipe

on page

10.

Cut

it

into lasagne strips a

rower than the length of a salted water then

finger.

add half the

little

nar-

Boil these strips in

Combine

butter.

apples, figs, walnuts, cinnamon, raisins,

and poppy

the

seeds.

unsalted butter, melted

In a baking Zi lb.

Vi

1

cup chopped

figs

A cup

chopped walnuts

tbsp.

ground cinnamon

2

Zi 1

tbsp.

cup raisins

poppy seeds Salt

808

pan

alternate layers of the

cooked lasagne

apples, peeled,

cored, and thinly sliced

with the apple mixture, ending with a layer of apples.

Cover

this

with the remaining butter and bake for about

20 minutes.

L

ATTAIOLO

MARCHE

CUSTARD TART This recipe

based on antique versions with names

is

tacciolu or lattaruolo. This custard Unsalted butter 1

recipe pastry

dough made with

such that

place of the eggs (see page 773) 2 large eggs (or 6 yolks)

% cup sugar Grated zest of 1

1

lemon

pinch ground cinnamon 1

pinch grated

nutmeg

4 cups milk Confectioners’ sugar (optional)

bottom and

the

MANDORLE PUGLIA

dough. Refrigerate

sides with the

until

the

lemon

zest,

Cook this mix-

cinnamon, and nutmeg.

ture in the top of a double boiler, slowly adding the milk

When

while constantly stirring in one direction.

mixture has thickened, pour

Remove

30 minutes.

on

a plate,

it

and

let cool,

foil

and bake

for about

from the pan, place the

the tart

Cut

the

into the pastry-lined bak-

aluminum

ing dish. Cover with

confectioners’ sugar.

Dl

ritual.

needed. Beat the eggs together with the sugar, adding

result

LATTE

like lat-

Marche,

typical of the

is

preparation follows a kind of

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a baking dish and line

only flour, butter, and water in

its

dusting

desired) with

(if

into squares to serve.

ALMOND SPAGHETTI This recipe

is

typical of the Salento area

and

is

usually

made

for Christmas lunch. 1

cup all-purpose flour

3 cups blanched ]4

almonds

cup cornstarch 2 cups sugar

Ground cinnamon

Use 1

0,

the flour to prepare a

small bits of this and

make

on page

as in the recipe

work them between

short lengths of spaghetti, about

Grind the almonds

in a

Take

this liquid into a fine

much

Zz.

the hands to

inch long.

food processor to obtain a smooth

Mix the almond paste with 6 cups

paste.

this

dough

using 6 tablespoons water in place of the eggs.

of water. Pour

cheesecloth and squeeze out as

liquid as possible, collecting

it

Repeat

in a bowl.

procedure using another 6 cups of water and

ing the liquid in the

same bowl.

bine the cornstarch with

make

a paste, then

almond

water.

add

some of

this

In a small bowl the

almond

com-

liquid to

back into the bowl with the

Pour the almond water

into a saucepan,

add the sugar, and heat over moderate heat

Add

collect-

and

until

it

stir

constantly until they

are cooked. Transfer to a serving

bowl and dust with

boils.

the spaghetti

cinnamon. Let

this rest a

few hours and serve

at

room

temperature.

809

LATTE DOLCE

1

LIGURIA

FRIED CUSTARD SQUARES In a saucepan gradually

add the sugar, lemon 4 cups milk 1

1

creamy consistency.

cup sugar 1

the mixture out

lemon V2

4 large eggs, beaten

oil,

inch olive

the cooled

Unsalted butter Olive

and

on

oil

cream

it

Cook

over low

reaches a thick and

Butter a work surface, then pour

it.

Spread evenly and

and

V2

let cool.

Heat

inch lard in a wide pan. Cut

in squares, dip

them

egg, then breadcrumbs, then fry

for frying

into the flour, then

3 eggs.

heat, stirring constantly, until

cup all-purpose flour

Grated zest of

mix the milk

zest,

in the

them

remaining

until golden.

Serve hot.

Lard, for frying

Breadcrumbs

LAUREL LIQUEUR

LAURINO

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

Dissolve the sugar in 2 cups boiling water.

syrup has cooled, pour 1

2

Z3 cups

% cups sugar

it

alcohol and bay berries and seal.

high-proof alcohol

about a month, shaking the

7 oz. bay berries

this period,

jar

Let

CAMPANIA medium lemons

or limes,

macerate for After

it

in a bottle with a cork or other

months before

using.

LIMONCELLO This recipe

Remove 5

this

every so often.

stopper. Let this age at least four

1

the

pass the contents through a sieve and strain

through paper. Put

LIMONCELLO

When

in a glass jar along with the

is

typical of Salerno.

the peel from the lemons and try not to get any

of the white pith. Put the peels along with the alcohol in

preferably organic

a container with a hermetic seal. Let this

sit

for 7 days.

4 cups high-proof alcohol

% cup sugar

At the end of the seventh day heat the sugar with 6 cups water until dissolved. Strain the peels from the alcohol.

Add the lemon peels to the they break down.

the alcohol, which in the

810

the heat, then pour in

meantime

yellow or greenish color.

and then

sugar mixture and cook until

Remove from

strain before use.

Let

will

this rest

have assumed a

two or three days

LEMON VERBENA LUIGINO

EMILIA-ROMAGNA 2 cups sugar

120 leaves of lemon verbena

from 3 lemons,

Peel

in strips,

white pith removed 4 cups high-proof alcohol

MACCHERONI N ATALIZI CON LE NOCI LAZIO

LIQUEUR Bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a pot, remove the pot

from the

heat,

spoon.

Wait

and add the sugar, until the

has completely cooled before adding

Pour

dients.

For the honey bread:

Zi

all-purpose flour

cup extra-virgin 1

Vi

olive oil

cups honey

8

3

A

% cups sweet ground chocolate 2

/i

bottle

and

age

it,

let it

1

tsp.

lb.

6 months before using.

at least

CHRISTMAS MACARONI WITH WALNUTS This recipe

in

is

Macaroni with walnuts

typical of Viterbo.

of the Tuscia area

and

it

is

the

appears

several variants between one town and another. Years ago

was eaten as the first serving for “Christmas Dinner” (and in some towns this is still the case), but later the dish came it

to represent the favorite dessert at the end of the meal on

identify

Eve.

The generic term macaroni, once used to

any type of pasta,

is

here meant to indicate the

shapes that were used

the past. The oldest

in

sheet of dough

made

at

home using

flour

vari-

was the

and water,

in later

times enriched with egg and cut into fettuccine; with the arrival of industrial

pasta the most

common shape used

for

cup sugar this dish

1

let sit

dark place. Strain the resulting liquid,

shelled walnuts,

toasted and chopped 1

and

in a cool,

ety of lbs.

jar

30 days

Christmas For the macaroni sauce:

wooden

the other ingre-

all

ceramic or glass

this into a

most typical Christmas dish

6% cups

stirring with a

sugar has dissolved and the liquid

is

linguine.

ground cinnamon

macaroni (see note)

Make

the

honey bread. Preheat the oven

the flour to Salt

using the

make

oil

a

dough

and honey

into a loaf, then bake

to handle then grate

Measure the walnuts

until let it

stand until

Make

it.

after

cool

it is

enough

the macaroni sauce.

chopping them then measure

enough of both

ture of 2 parts bread to

1

chocolate, sugar,

Form this Remove the

browned.

the grated bread and use

mix the

Use

on page 751,

in place of the eggs.

it

bread from the oven and

to 350°F.

as in the recipe

to

make

a

mix-

In another bowl

part nuts.

and cinnamon. (These two mix-

tures can be prepared a day in advance but should be

Cook the macaroni

stored in separate bowls.)

them cook

salted boiling water, letting

normal so they are

spoon

roni and, without letting

serving bowl.

it

Add some

little

in lightly

longer than

overcooked. Using a large

slightly

fork, tongs, or slotted

a

lift

out some of the maca-

drain too

much, put

it

in a

of the chopped nuts and

811

honey bread mixture and

Cover

toss well to blend.

with a thin layer of the chocolate mixture and with another layer of the nuts and honey bread mixture. Repeat this

operation until

down on

D

MANDORLATO COLOGNA VENETA

1

the macaroni

all

ALMOND NOUGAT

VENETO

This

is

specialties. Although the recipe

2 oz. white wafers

actually quite complex. ity

2 large egg whites 2

owes

It

If

is

its

is

little

at a time. In truth,

one

of Italy’s national

simple, the preparation

fame primarily to the

is

qual-

honey and almonds), which must be

of the ingredients (the

the very best.

peeled almonds

lbs.

used up, pressing

1

meant to be stored and eaten a

the mandorlato of Cologna Veneta

2 cups wildflower honey

is

the various layers.

you cannot find the wafers, you can

line

the

pan with parchment. Vz

cup diced candied citron

Line a baking pan with the wafers, breaking them as nec-

Pinch ground cinnamon

essary to cover the whole surface. Heat the honey in a

heatproof bowl set over a pot of simmering water (do not let it

touch) for about 30 minutes, stirring constantly.

Meanwhile, whip the egg whites

bath and cook, until

it is

namon. pan

MARITOZZI

LAZIO

!

it

Stir to

1

Y*

Zi tsp.

active dry yeast

cups all-purpose flour 1

Vn

large egg

cup extra-virgin

Add

the almonds, citron,

blend well and pour

in pieces

and

this

made

of a heart

this cool

and

cin-

Wait for the mixture to cool then store

them

in a closed jar.

8

Maritozzi are typical of the Lenten period

shape

fold into

mixture into the

SWEET BUNS past they were

1

and

another 30 minutes. Let

stirring,

lukewarm.

lined with wafers.

break

until stiff

Put the honey back over the heat in the water

the honey.

in

FOR persons

Rome.

an elongated shape and also

in

In

the

in

the

decorated with doves made with cotton

candy because many buyers were young men who got them for their sweethearts. There were then the famous maritozzi

from Giobbe, a well-known pastry shop

in

Piazza Navona,

olive oil

where they made them larger than usual and where they

3tbsp. sugar

cost three soldi instead of two.

2tbsp. pine nuts

A cup lukewarm water and comflour to make a soft dough. Set rise, covered, in a warm spot for 30 minutes.

Dissolve the yeast in Vz

cup raisins

Grated zest of

1

orange

bine with

Z2

this aside to

l

cup of the

Salt

When the dough has risen add the remaining flour, the

812

egg, olive

and

oil,

a pinch of

30 minutes, then form

and floured

in a

dough begins

warm

the

into a ball

spot for

to swell,

orange zest and work dusted with

it

Knead

salt.

Knead

then add the sugar.

1

it

covered

As soon

hour.

as the

nuts, raisins,

on

this together

Shape the dough

flour.

for another

and keep

add the pine

all

energetically,

dough

a

into

and

work surface 1

2 oval buns,

arrange them evenly on a baking sheet greased with olive oil,

and

serve at

MARMELLATA

Dl

them

let

rise

again for 6 hours in a lukewarm

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake until golden and

spot.

room temperature.

ARANCE

ORANGE MARMALADE

PUGLIA

This recipe

typical of the Salento area.

is

Peel half of the oranges lb.

1

organic oranges

and

slice thinly. Slice

maining half without removing the

the re-

Put them

peel.

in a

(preferably those with thin rinds)

bowl, alternating layers of orange slices with sugar. Let 2 cups sugar

Juice of

1

lb.

organic lemons

0 hours.

At the end of that time add the

this sit 8 to

1

lemon

and transfer the mixture

at

juice

to a

pan and cook

moderate heat, skimming the surface from time to

time and stirring often until the

it

reaches the right density:

marmalade should not drip from

when

lifted

out of the mixture.

hot pour

it

into sterilized jars with

leaving about

Vz

inch at the top of the

still

wooden spoon

a

While the mixture

jar.

bands and

Do

is

lids,

not tighten

the lids completely. Process in boiling water to cover for

6 minutes. Let cool completely before using.

MARMELLATA D’UVA PUGLIA

GRAPE JAM This

jam

is

suitable for the preparation of pies and cakes.

Any kind of ripe red or black grape suitable for making mos1

lb.

red grapes

tarda or grapes for making wine

Remove

will do.

the seeds without skinning

in a large

them and heat them

pot until the juice cooks away completely.

Do

not add any sugar since the grapes are already well supplied.

While the mixture

ized jars with bands

top of the

jar.

and

hot pour

it

into steril-

leaving about

Vz

inch at the

is still

lids,

Do not tighten the lids completely. Process

813

in boiling water to cover for 6 minutes.

Let cool com-

pletely before using.

MASCARPONE CAKE WITH MARSALA

MASCARPONE ALLO ZABAGLIONE

1

LOMBARDIA

Make a zabaglione, whisking together the eggs, sugar, and 2 tablespoons Marsala in the top of a double boiler. Cook

3 large eggs

10 minutes, whisking until thick and a

4tbsp. sugar 2 tbsp. plus 1

1

10-inch

Zi

little

foamy. Fold

warm zabaglione into the mascarpone, which will melt on contact with the heat. Mix well. Cut the sponge cake

the

cup Marsala

cup mascarpone

in slices

sponge cake (see page 843)

and soak them

slices to line a

in the

smooth the surface with of sponge cake.

slices

remaining Marsala; use the

in the

mascarpone mixture,

a spatula,

and cover with more

Pour

mold.

Put

in the refrigerator until the

next day and serve by turning the cake over onto a plate.

LOCAL TRADITION

MARMELLATA Marmellata Veneto,

is

di castagne, typical of the

Agno

Montecchio, Schi, and

valley,

until their liquid is

released and thickened, then the shelled chest-

added and the mixture stirred

until

MELANZANE AL CIOCCOLATO

CAMPANIA medium

eggplants, peeled

Extra-virgin olive

oil

2 cups sugar

CONTINUED

814

more traditionally, honey,

homogeneous.

EGGPLANT WITH CHOCOLATE This recipe

is

typical of Maiori on the Amalfi Coast.

Cut the eggplants 2 lbs.

the

wild chestnuts and apples. The apples are diced

nuts are added. After two hours of steady cooking, sugar, or is

Tretti in

made from

a sweet spread

and cooked down

CASTAGNE

Dl

oil in

a

pan and

into

them brown. Set them by heating sugar the sugar

is

‘/2

-inch

slices.

Heat % cup of olive

fry the eggplant until soft, not letting

in

aside to cool.

Prepare a syrup

an equal amount of water

just until

dissolved (making certain the sugar does not

Crustless bread from a

roll

% cup cocoa, dissolved in Z2 cup warm water 1

Ya

cups grated chocolate

V

3

cup pine nuts

% cup chopped almonds % cup chopped candied citron

caramelize). Shred the bread into this syrup, stirring,

and when

it

thickens

chocolate and

stir

mix

in the

cocoa and

cup of the

1

Pour a good

a long time to blend.

Dip

the egg-

plant slices in the syrup one at a time and use

some of

portion of this syrup into a baking pan.

them

to

form a

first

Sprinkle over this

layer over the syrup in the pan.

some pine

Continue with these layers

Dust the

ents.

last layer

nuts, almonds,

until using

up

and

citron.

the ingredi-

with the remaining chocolate,

pine nuts, almonds, and citron.

Bake

at

200°F

for 10

minutes. Serve lukewarm or cold from the refrigerator.

MERINGHE LIGURIA

MERINGUES Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line a baking sheet with

parchment, then butter the parchment. Unsalted butter

whites

2 large egg whites it 1

Ya

cups sugar

stiff

while adding the sugar a

Bake

Ml ASCI A

for

10 oz. stale bread, without crust

6 cups milk 3 large eggs

Grated zest of 3 pears, cored and

1

lemon

chopped

3 apples, peeled, cored,

and 1

finely sliced

or 2tbsp. golden raisins

2tbsp. all-purpose flour 1

tbsp. cornmeal

4 sugar cubes Extra-virgin olive Va 1

oil

cup sugar

sprig rosemary, chopped

at a

the egg

time until

The mixture should have a Drop tablespoons of the mixture

sheet, leaving

20 minutes or

FRUITCAKE

1

inch of space around them.

until crisp

on the

outside.

3

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a baking pan. Dice the

bread and soak 2tbsp. unsalted butter

Whip

has dissolved completely.

smooth consistency. on the baking

LOMBARDIA

little

it

working them in

in the milk for delicately,

1

hour; add the eggs,

then add the lemon

pears, apples, raisins, flour, cornmeal,

Blend

well,

then pour into the pan, smoothing

Dot with

zest,

and sugar cubes. it

and

out to

a thickness of

IV2 inches.

with olive

oil;

add a dusting of sugar and rosemary.

Bake

hour or

for

1

until

golden and

butter

set.

drizzle

MIGLIACCIO DOLCE

SEMOLINA CAKE

DISEMOLINO

CAMPANIA cup

(4 tbsp.)

unsalted butter

cinnamon

4 cups whole milk

Grated zest of

take the

lemon and

1

it 1

lemon, cut

Ya

A cups

Add

1

into a

peel, sugar,

When

boil.

and

the milk boils

and add the semolina, pouring Return the pan to the

stirring.

mon

stick;

zest.

Whip

ricotta

whole egg and 4 egg

Remove

aside the whites.

cup citrus liqueur or limoncello 2

off the heat

stream and

let it cool.

cup coarse semolina

1

pan

in a steady

bring to a

lemon

heat and boil again for 5 minutes. Stir in the butter and

stick

5 large eggs, 4 separated Va

stick;

Pour the milk

sugar.

strips of

strips

in

cinnamon

1

and sprinkle with

saucepan and add the

5tbsp. sugar

peel of

persons

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking pan with butter

Ya

6

add the

the

the egg whites until stiff

and

Bake

yolks, setting

and cinna-

peel

and the grated

citrus liqueur, ricotta,

Pour the mxture into the pan.

Confectioners’ sugar

lemon

fold

for

them

comes out clean when inserted

until a toothpick

center of the cake.

Turn out on

in.

45 minutes, or

a serving plate

in the

and dust

with confectioners’ sugar.

MISTOCCHINE

1

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

CHESTNUT DUMPLINGS Until

about thirty years ago these were sold

in

Bologna dur-

ing the winter by street vendors. 1

%

cups chestnut flour Vi

Mix

cup milk

Lard or extra-virgin olive

the flour with the milk

Season with

oil,

salt

this into balls

and knead

and 2 tablespoons water.

to

and press them

form to

a soft dough; shape

form rounds about 4

for frying

inches in diameter.

Heat the lard

and

(or olive oil)

fry

Salt

the dough. Drain

MONTBLANC

PIEMONTE

!

on paper towels and serve

hot.

CHESTNUT "MOUNTAIN” This recipe

is

typical of Cuneo.

Boil the chestnuts in lightly salted water, drain, 1

lb.

chestnuts

4 cups whole milk, or as needed Yi vanilla 1

Ya

bean

cups sugar Vi

cup rum

CONTINUED

816

while they are

and

vanilla

still

hot.

Put them

and cook very slowly

in a

and peel

pan with the milk

until they are tender.

Drain them and pass them through a potato ricer.

Using

rum

into the

a

wooden spoon

incorporate the sugar and

resulting puree. Adjust for sugar and, if necessary,

few tablespoons of milk.

add

a

Pass the mixture through the

3 cups sweetened

whipped cream

potato ricer again, this time through the strainer plate

with the largest holes, thus forming long strands.

Salt

Ar-

range these strands on a serving plate shaping them into For decoration:

peak

a

Meringues

—the mountain the dish

ing with

Marrons glaces

and pieces of marrons

glaces

and candied

Mostaccioli, a sweet typical of Christmas,

LAZIO

ancient mustacea of the Romans, flour, walnuts,

Unsalted butter Zi

%

staccioli

cup all-purpose flour

it

to

violets.

is

made

of

is

derived from the

cooked wine must,

a later addition. In keeping with tradition they are in

Piazza Navona on the Epiphany.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Butter a baking sheet.

Mix the

flour with the walnuts, honey, egg whites, a pinch of pep-

2 large egg whites

ground cinnamon

per,

and cinnamon.

Freshly ground pepper

and

roll it

tsp.

—and cover-

almonds, and other flavors. The name mo-

sold at open stalls

cups chopped walnuts

% cup honey 1

for

WALNUT COOKIES

MOSTACCIOLI

1

named

Decorate with meringues

cover the entire structure.

Candied violets

is

“snow” made of whipped cream, smoothing

H

inch thick.

Cut

these crosswise to long.

Mix

well to

form a smooth dough

out on a work surface to form a sheet about this into rectangular strips

and cut

form diamond shapes about 3 inches

Arrange these on the baking sheet and bake for 20

minutes. Let

them cool before removing from

the sheet.

LOCAL TRADITION

MIGLIACCI DOLCI Typical of Prato in Toscana, this unique dessert

with white bread, and after cooling, adding ing,

orange

zest,

obtain a thick,

and bread to

cinnamon, and

somewhat

% blood,

salt are

in

in

the

made

added, as well as a

liquid consistency.

little

flour,

if

needed, to

The mixture, traditionally about

would then cook on both sides

same

by combining pig’s-head broth

fresh, strained pig’s blood. Before cook-

pan. The finished migliaccio would then be slid

was prepared

is

MAIALE

Dl

in

a

little

melted lardo

Zz

broth

in

a hot

out onto a plate to cool, while another

pan. While stacking the migliacci one atop the next, sugar,

grated bitter chocolate, or even grated cheese could be added between the layers to

make

a

popular variation on the original recipe.

817

LOCAL TRADITION

MOSTACDIOLI DE VIN COTTO Making these wine-must cookies from Calabria called saba or sapa

must

into a

—

is

is

a two-step process. Vin cotto

concentrated state. To make the mostaccioli,

combined with a smaller amount

first

—

also

down wine

the dense, intensely-flavored result of cooking

the wine must would be

orange zest and cinnamon,

of water, flavored with

and heated on the stovetop. Enough flour would be slowly stirred

into the

warm

mix-

ture to form a soft dough, and this would be turned out onto a work surface to knead into short cylinder shapes.

A second pot of

vin cotto

The resulting cookies would be

and water,

briefly baked,

then cooled.

this time with a higher proportion of vin cotto so

as to be almost a syrup, would be brought to a boil and the mostaccioli cooked

mixture for about

five

minutes. While these dried,

more orange

zest

in

this

and chopped and

toasted almonds and walnuts would be sprinkled over the cookies.

MOSTO COTTO

CAMPANIA

I

COOKED WINE (SABA) In

southern

cooked wine must

Italy,

(“cooked wine”) while 4/2 (preferably

lbs.

grapes

somewhat sweet)

in

other areas of

is

called vin cotto

volume by one third to one

more or

less

dense and

eighth.

of a

called sapa,

obtained by

it

saba, or calamich. An ancient preparation,

cooking down wine must over low heat

is

it is

Italy

until

it

has reduced

The resulting

in

be

liquid will

brownish color. Today the use of

vin cotto is restricted to the preparation of certain tradi-

wine companies make their own

tional dishes. Various

in-

dustrially

because it is part ofthe preparation for Marsala-like

wines.

the past

In

it

was the most common and economic

sweeteners, used for making a great number of desserts.

was

also used to

make sorbets

Crush the grapes

in a

the resulting juice of boil over

low heat

food mill or potato

all

pits

of It

for children.

and

in a tin-plated

ricer.

skins then bring

copper pot

Strain it

to a

or, if that is

not available, in a stainless-steel pot. The liquid must be continuously stirred with a it

from

that sticks will if

some does

begin again)

818

wooden spoon to keep any of

sticking to the walls or

.

bottom of the pot (any

burn and give the remainder an off odor;

stick

pour the liquid

into another pot

and

foam

that

At the same time, skim

off the

forms on the surface. be ready. Let bottle with a this

MOUSSE

D

ARANCE

I

CAMPANIA

way

it

it

After about

Grated zest and strained juice of 5 oranges, preferably organic Vi

cup orange liqueur

2 cups heavy cream,

whipped Zi

1

until stiff

cups sugar

Candied orange peels

NATALINO

VENETO

it

somewhat wide mouth;

seal the bottle. In

ORANGE MOUSSE This recipe

will

into a sterilized

can be preserved for a long time.

is

12

PERSONS

typical of Naples.

Beat the egg yolks with a mixer on 10 large eggs, separated

hour the liquid

1

cool before pouring

medium speed

until

pale and thick. Whisk in the juice and half the liqueur.

Fold in the whipped cream. until stiff

and add them

ture into a plum-cake

Whip

the 10 egg whites

to the mixture.

mold and

Pour

this

mix-

refrigerate overnight.

Shortly before serving prepare the syrup. Boil the sugar

with

% cup

off the heat

water until the liquid thickens

and add the

Turn

the

peels

and syrup.

zest

slightly.

and remaining

Turn

liqueur.

mousse out and decorate with candied orange

STAR CAKE This typically Veronese dessert

is

a forerunner of the

more

famous pandoro.

AZ2 tsp.

active dry yeast 1

% cups sugar

3 Vs cups all-purpose flour 4 large eggs 6 oz.

(1 Zi

sticks) unsalted butter,

Dissolve the yeast and

1

teaspoon sugar in

water. Let rest 15 minutes.

Use

1

the flour

cup warm and yeast

mixture to make a dough as in the recipe on page 13,

adding the eggs, butter, sugar, and a pinch of

salt

with

smooth and homo-

the yeast mixture.

Knead

geneous dough.

Place this in a star-shaped mold. Cover

to obtain a

softened Za

cup

vanilla

sugar

with a clean kitchen towel and

let it rise for

about 50

Salt

minutes in a cool place.

Bake for 40 minutes, turn

it

while

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

still

warm. Let

it

When

until golden.

out on a plate and sprinkle cool slowly.

it

it is

done

with vanilla sugar

LOCAL TRADITION N E C C

I

These traditional chestnut-flour crepes, typical of Pisoia a simple batter of chestnut flour, water, sugar,

method

and

made from

Toscana, were

in

Following the traditional

salt.

of preparing the crepes, first the special 2-sided iron

pan

is

heated; a single

chestnut leaf would be placed onto the hot plate and a ladleful of the crepe batter

poured over; the batter would be topped by

a

second

and then the heated iron

leaf

plate

would be closed. Each crepe would be removed when just brown and another

made

in

the

same manner. The finished crepes were

often served with pecorino, ricotta,

or pork sausage.

NEPITELLE

CALABRIA

I

BAKED FIG AND NUT CALZONE Use

the flour

recipe 3 >3 cups all-purpose flour 5 large eggs 1

cup sugar

5 'A oz. lard, softened 1

cup toasted and chopped almonds 1

1

2

cup chopped walnuts

A cups

chopped, parboiled

salt

and 4 of the eggs

on page

with the eggs.

dough and

tbsp.

cinnamon

Pinch ground cloves

%cup

golden raisins

Zest of 2 oranges 1

14

cups orange marmalade (see page 813) Salt

Knead

make

a

dough

to obtain a

and

a

as in the

pinch of

homogeneous

in a cool spot.

Preheat

the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking sheet with lard. Beat

Combine

the remaining egg.

cinnamon, cloves,

malade

to

form the

Roll out the

and cut out

filling.

dough

to

little

pinch of

salt,

and mar-

Mix until thoroughly blended.

form

a sheet about V* inch thick

disks about 4 inches in diameter.

Arrange

dampen

the edges

a dollop of the filling

with a

the almonds, walnuts, figs,

raisins, zest, a

on each

disk,

water (or egg white), and close, forming half-

moons. Seal the edges with the

tines of a fork

and make

two or three short cuts across the upper part of each half-

moon.

Put these on the baking sheet, brush the surface

of each with a

little

beaten egg, and bake for about 30

minutes or until golden.

820

to

lard, sugar,

30 minutes

let rest

dried figs 1

adding the

10,

NNACATULI

VANILLA FRITTERS

CALABRIA

Use the

flour

and eggs

to

on page 751, adding the

6% cups

all-purpose flour

lemon

10 large eggs

4

oz. lard,

mixed with

1

roll

tbsp.

zest with the eggs.

tsp. vanilla extract

Grated zest of oil,

as in the recipe

Using a floured

to 3 inches long

inch thick. Cut this in

14

and

1

to 14 inches wide.

saucepan and fry

olive oil in a

for frying

and

rolling pin

until

sugar and cinnamon to taste and sprinkle over the

lemon

1

ters. Olive

dough

Drain on paper towels. Mix the confectioners’

golden. 1

2%

Heat 2 inches of

% cup sugar

a

out a sheet of dough about

rectangles

warm water

form

lard mixture, sugar, vanilla,

frit-

Serve immediately.

Confectioners’ sugar

Ground cinnamon

NOCIATA

I

UMBRIA

WALNUT NOUGAT In a copper pot

combine the honey, walnuts,

egg whites and cook

2% cups

honey

the mixture thickens

5 2/a cups shelled walnuts

Grated zest of

/i

Grated zest of

low heat,

zests,

and

stirring constantly, until

and becomes opaque.

Pour

it

out

onto a work surface (preferably marble) and shape into

orange

%

at

lozenge-shaped pieces about 2 inches wide and 3 inches

lemon

long.

6 large egg whites

Wrap

these in bay leaves while they are

still

hot.

Let cool completely before serving.

Fresh bay leaves

ORECCHIE

Dl

AMMAN

TOSCANA

I

FRIED WINE KNOTS This recipe

“Amman’s 2 large eggs, beaten 2 tbsp. sugar 14

cup white wine

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

plus olive 1

oil

oil

for frying

tsp. vanilla extract (or

1

tsp.

grated lemon or orange zest) 1

14

cups all-purpose plus

flour,

more as needed Vanilla

sugar Salt

is

typical of Livorno.

The name

literally

means

ears.” For the wine, use Vernaccia di San Gimi-

giano, Vermentino, or Orvieto.

Beat the eggs and sugar with a mixer on then mix in the wine, olive

medium speed oil,

vanilla (or

zest), a

pinch of salt, and as

much flour

as necessary to

form

smooth dough.

dough

a sheet

until pale,

lemon or orange

to

form

inches long. Twist twists or

a

and cut

and

Roll out the

into strips about 6

them between your hands

shape them into knots.

a saucepan

it

fry until golden.

paper towels, then dust with

to

form

Heat 2 inches of oil

in

Drain completely on

vanilla sugar.

821

OSSA

D

1

MORTI

1

"BONES OF THE DEAD" COOKIES These are traditionally made for the Day of the Dead, Novem-

BASILICATA

ber

2% lbs. all-purpose flour 10 large eggs

a

% cup anise liqueur % cup sugar Yz

cup

Grated zest of

as in the recipe lard,

oil,

on page 751, adding the

and lemon

twist

them

Boil

eights.

lemon

in the

PALLINE D BUCCE D’ARANCI A

sticks,

and

middle to form shapes similar to figure

them

in a pot of water a

drain as soon as they

and bake

anise,

zest with the eggs.

Pinch off lumps of dough, shape into 3-inch

olive oil

Zi

dough

sugar, olive

cup lard

/}

2.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Use the flour and eggs to make

for about

few

at a

time and

Arrange on a baking sheet

float.

20 minutes.

1

ORANGE-PEEL BALLS These are served after dinner as an aid to digestion.

SICILIA

Soak the orange peels Orange peels from organic

in water to cover for

4 days, chang-

At the end of that time

ing the water often each day.

oranges, preferably

drain them, dry them, coarsely chop, then weigh them;

Sugar

add

to

peels

them an equal weight of sugar.

and sugar over low heat and

Put the orange

stir

to blend, keep-

ing the mixture from boiling or caramelizing. the sugar

is

dissolved

Remove from the heat, form Serve at room temperature.

PALLINE

CASTAGNE

Dl

CAMPANIA

1

2

lbs.

chestnuts

cup whole milk 5tbsp. sugar

2 tbsp. bitter cocoa !4

powder

cup rum or Marsala Confectioners’ sugar

822

into balls,

and

roll in sugar.

CHESTNUT BALLS This recipe

is

typical of

Cassano

Boil the chestnuts, then peel

1

Cook until

and the mixture has thickened.

Irpino.

them and pass them through

a sieve. Work the resulting puree together with the other ingredients (except the confectioners’ sugar). balls

and

roll in

the confectioners’ sugar.

Shape

into

LOCAL TRADITION

NOCINO This walnut liqueur from ing the nocino

is

to

ground with their shells

nuts,

Tradition dictates using Day,

Modena comes from

combine a gallon

June

in

mortar and

a

summertime walnuts,

24. To the alcohol

mak-

a very old recipe. The first step in

of a neutral high-proof alcohol with fresh walpestle, in a ideally

wide-mouthed glass

those gathered on

St.

jar.

John’s

and walnut mixture was added the grated zest

of

one

lemon, cinnamon, and cloves. The jar would then be sealed, shaken occasionally, and the sun for about two months to steep. After the steeping period, the alcohol

left in

would be strained and the nuts and shells squeezed or pressed liquid as possible.

To this was added a thick syrup

made

to extract as

by boiling

much

down hearty red

wine with a quantity of sugar, also flavored with cinnamon and cloves and

filtered

through a piece of clean wool. The walnut-steeped alcohol and the cooled wine syrup are then combined

in

an earthenware container, shaking again from time to time to

keep the syrup from separating.

PALPITON

PIEMONTE

I

PEAR CAKE This recipe

is

8

FOR PERSONS

typical of Biella.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a large baking pan Va lb. (1 stick)

unsalted butter

lOtbsp. sugar

Grated zest of peel of

1

1

lemon and

lemon, cut

4]/z lbs.

in

in

strips

Bread of 2 stale

soaked 1

2

A cups finely ground

in

rolls,

water

amaretti

% cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1

tbsp.

sugar;

add the lemon peel and

amaro

(preferably Fernet Branca)

cooked and the

peel

and blend

zest,

Add

Add the Remove the

lemon

the amaretti, cocoa

Mix

and amaro.

this,

add-

ing the eggs and raisins, and working to obtain a dense and

homogeneous mixture. (ideally so that

it

Pour the mixture

extends up to about

1

into the

pan

inch below the

lip

of the pan). Dot with butter evenly across the surface until the surface

is

golden brown. Turn out on

water,

drained, and dried

Remove

let cool.

in the bread.

powder, grated lemon

and bake in

salt.

of the liquid has evaporated.

all

pan from the heat and

6 large eggs

% cup raisins, soaked

a pinch of

pears and cook them at low heat until they are thoroughly

strips

pears, peeled and

cut lengthwise

with butter. Melt the butter in a large pan and add the

a serving plate

and

let cool.

Serve at

room

temperature.

Salt

823

PAMPEPATO

!

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

CAKE

SPICE

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Dissolve the sugar in water in a copper pan and heat

2 cups sugar

when

4/2 cups all-purpose flour 1

1

lb.

sity stir

cups candied orange

34

toasted, and

(5

coriander, 3 parts mace,

ground

cloves,

14

Vi

cup plus

it

cup

234°F

to

reaches that den-

add the candied

%

fruits,

inch thick, then use 2- to 2 /2-inch 1

cookie cutters to cut circles of dough. sheets, spacing

part

seeds and

cup ground pepper

tbsp.

1

1

When

1

forms threads

from the pan (223°F

into the flour, then

it

Pat out the dough to

parts

part grated nutmeg)

1

lifted

it

l

chopped

cup ground spices

is

until

almonds, mixed spices, pepper, and A cup cinnamon.

3 cups almonds, blanched,

fi

spoon

the

on a candy thermometer).

candied melon

it

cookies.

ground cinnamon

1

them

2 inches apart.

Place on baking

Mix

the coriander

tablespoon cinnamon and sprinkle over the

Bake between 20 and 30 minutes according

to their size.

3tbsp. coriander seeds

NUT CAKE FROM TERNI SPICED

j

PAMPEPATO TERNANO

UMBRIA

1

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking sheet with olive

Olive

oil

5 lbs. shelled walnuts 1

1

34

34

cups shelled almonds

cups shelled hazelnuts, lightly

% lb. dark chocolate, % lb. milk chocolate, 1

chopped

tsp.

ground cinnamon 1

1

Vi

cup honey

cups chopped candied citron 1

1

34

cups raisins

cup cooked grape must (see note, page 818) 3 tbsp.

alchermes

(see note, page 786) 2 tbsp.

rum

2 tbsp. rosolio (can substitute 1

1

34

cups

tbsp. rose water)

sifted all-purpose flour

2 cups strong coffee Pinch pepper

824

the walnuts, almonds, and hazelnuts,

gether until blended.

Divide the mixture into loaves

weighing about V2 pound each and about 6 inches in ameter.

Arrange the loaves on the baking

with aluminum foil

chopped

2 nutmegs, grated 1

Combine

sheet.

di-

Cover

toasted

cups sugar

Vi

oil.

then add the remaining ingredients, working them to-

and bake

foil

and bake 10 minutes. Remove the

5 minutes more, until golden.

2

SWEET CORNMEAL BREAD

PAN DE MEI

LOMBARDIA

The

name means

Italian

“millet bread,” but this

is

also called

paniga (from the elderberry). Since the eighteenth century

% cup all-purpose flour 1

1

A

A

the millet flour has been replaced by cornmeal. There are

pastry. In fact the yeast

cups coarse-grain cornmeal 3 large

many

variations varying the yeast and the formula for the short

cups fine-grain cornmeal

sweet

eggs

a

is

somewhat recent

addition. This

found throughout Lombardia known by different local

is

names, such as sbrisolona mantovana near Mantua, torta

di

elderberry flowers

/> oz.

polenta around Varese, melegdt in Cremona, and so on.

A cup

2

A

lb. (1

stick) plus

sugar

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

3tbsp.

2

A tsp.

dissolved

in

dough

active dry yeast,

4 tbsp.

warm

Sift

and combine the

and cornmeals, then use them and the eggs

unsalted butter

milk

as in the recipe

Salt

salt,

Work

into a ball

put in a bowl. Cover with a kitchen towel and 1

hour

in a

warm

Shape the dough

place.

a

elder-

and butter with the

sugar,

add the yeast mixture.

eggs, then

flour

make

on page 751, adding the

berry flowers, a pinch of

2tbsp. vanilla sugar

to

and

let rise for

into small

loaves about 4 inches in diameter, slightly flattening

them, and place them on a baking sheet. vanilla sugar

PAN

DI

ATRI

I

ABRUZZO

and bake

for

Dust with

30 minutes.

SEMOLINA BREAD Preheat the oven to 350°F. Using a mixer on

medium

speed, whip the egg yolks and sugar until pale and thick6 large eggs, separated 1

1

Whip

cup semolina flour

1/2 tsp. baking

Juice of 1

ened, then

cup sugar

the

powder 1

in the semolina flour

lemon

juice

stiff

and almonds.

bake for 40 minutes,

and baking powder.

and fold them

Shape

in,

then add

into a loaf

and

until golden.

lemon

cup chopped almonds

j

pan dolce

LIGURIA

I

SWEET BREAD WITH FRUITS AND NUTS This

is

a classic

Combine 14

sift

the whites until

tsp. active dry yeast, dissolved in it

2 tbsp.

will

lukewarm milk

Christmas sweet typical of Genoa.

the yeast mixture with as

shape into a small 3/3 cups all-purpose flour

CONTINUED

hours.

much

absorb without becoming too

Combine

loaf,

and

of the flour as

stiff to

work

with,

set aside to rise for a

few

the remaining flour with the Marsala,

orange-flower water, and butter.

Knead

in the small

825

14 1

cup Marsala

loaf

tbsp. orange-flower water

3 oz. (6 tbsp.) unsalted butter,

1

1

Make

the result

covered by a cloth.

three triangular inci-

and bake

for about

1

hour.

Serve lukewarm.

tbsp. fennel seeds

cup pine nuts Zi

Vi

rise again, tightly

it

sions in the center of the loaf

cup sugar

Form

the remaining ingredients.

tbsp. crushed pistachios Zi

Zi

all

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

softened 1

and

into a loaf and let

cup raisins

cup chopped candied citron

cup chopped candied orange Salt

I

PAN DOLCE

Dl

COGNE

VALLE D'AOSTA 1

14

cups raisins

% cup rum 214 tsp. active dry yeast

314 cups all-purpose flour 2 cups whole milk

% cup heavy cream 4 large eggs 1

Zi

cups sugar

4 tbsp. unsalted butter Zi

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

Grated zest of 3 lemons Salt

I

SWEET BREAD FROM COGNE This recipe

3

typical of Cogne.

is

FOR LOAVES

These should be eaten with

whipped cream seasoned with Valdostan grappa or Crema di Cogne (see page 782). If possible bake them in a woodburning oven.

Soak the

raisins in the

rum

the milk with sins

all

dough.

flour,

a pinch of salt), stir well, gradually

and knead

Remove from

should double in

size)

.

this well to

the bowl, place

with a kitchen towel, and

let rise

obtain a firm

on a pan, cover

for about 6 hours

(it

Knead the mixture on a floured

surface for a few minutes then divide parts.

Separately heat

the other ingredients (including the rai-

and rum and

whisk in the

Com-

for at least 2 hours.

bine the yeast and flour in a large bowl.

Shape each of these

into a

it

into three equal

round

the oven to 400°F. Bake for at least

1

loaf.

Preheat

hour, or until the

loaves are golden.

PAN SPEZIALE ALLA CERTOSINA

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

CHARTERHOUSE-STYLE SWEET BREAD This

is

named

for the charterhouse of Bologna,

prepared by the friars as 1

tsp.

ground coriander 1

tsp. anise

14 tsp.

seeds

ground cloves

2 14 tsp. active dry yeast

CONTINUED

826

a

where

it

was

sweet during the Christmas

period.

Combine

the spices, yeast, honey,

boiling water;

add the

flour

and sugar with

Vi

cup

and blend. Turn out onto a

floured surface and knead in the raisins, almonds, citron

and orange, pine

nuts,

and chocolate. Let

rise,

covered

cup honey

Vz

A cup

2

1

sugar

Za

cups all-purpose flour

Zi

cup

soaked

raisins,

with a kitchen towel, until nearly doubled in volume.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Shape the dough

and place on a baking

Bake

sheet.

30

for

to

into a loaf

40 minutes.

in

lukewarm water and drained cup almonds

Zz Zi

cup candied citron and orange cup pine nuts

Zi Zi

cup chopped bittersweet chocolate

PANE

Dl

NATALE

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

CHRISTMAS BREAD This recipe

is

typical of

Modena.

days before Christmas, keep Za lb. (Zi

cup) unsalted butter,

softened 3 Ms cups all-purpose flour 1

Za

cups sugar

ing

it

with

it

If

the cake

is

prepared a few

moist by periodically brush-

more wine must.

Butter a baking sheet.

Mix

the butter, flour, and sugar,

then use the mixture and eggs to prepare a dough as in the recipe

2 large eggs

on page 751, adding the chocolate, cocoa, and half the wine must with the eggs.

anisette, yeast, Vz Zz

cup ground sweet chocolate

cup unsweetened cocoa powder Zz 1

cup anisette

Zi tsp. active

dry yeast

Knead this for a long time then add the walnuts, almonds, pine nuts, raisins, fennel seeds, candied citron, and candied cherries.

(see note, page 818) 1

Vz

cups chopped walnuts

Zz

cup chopped almonds Vz

2 /z

cup

into a

round loaf and

let rise.

sheet

and bake

glaze

it

for

1

hour.

When

it is

baked and

still

hot

with the remaining wine must.

cup pine nuts

raisins, softened in

warm water and 1

Vz

Shape

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Put the loaf on the baking

2tbsp. wine must

drained

tsp. fennel

seeds

cup chopped candied citron Zi

cup chopped candied

red and green cherries

PANE

Dl

ZUCCA

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

PUMPKIN BREAD Make sure the oven

is

no hotter than called for because the

loaves should bake without letting the surface burn. 1

lb.

cooked pumpkin

(or winter squash)

Combine the ingredients except the flour until blended. Work in the flour and a pinch of salt to make a smooth

CONTINUED

dough.

Let the dough

rest for

about 30 minutes.

827

1

A

lb. (1

A cups sugar

Shape the dough

stick) unsalted butter

30 minutes.

4)4 tsp. active dry yeast

golden, but do not

3 cups all-purpose flour, plus

and

and

into loaves

let

them

rise

another

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake until just let

the outside get too brown. Let cool

serve.

more as needed Salt

PANE FRITTO

I

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

FRIED BREAD Pour the milk sugar.

plus 1

Milk,

as needed

'A

cup sugar,

more

to

mixing bowl and

stir in

half the

and soak 30 minutes, rotating the

Mix the egg

bottom halfway through.

bread and dip the

slices in the

egg mixture. Heat 2 table-

spoons butter in a nonstick pan and saute half the bread.

sliced

Repeat with the remaining butter and bread. Sprinkle

large egg, beaten

with sugar and serve warm.

tbsp. white wine

1

from top

slices

into a

the bread

FOR persons

with the wine, lemon, and remaining sugar. Drain the

for sprinkling

10-oz. loaf peasant-style bread,

1

Add

6

Juice of Vi lemon

A

cup

(4 tbsp.)

unsalted butter

PANE INDORATO

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

1

FRIED BREAD WITH BULIDE Bulide

is

a sort of cooked wine product. You can substitute

vin cotto (see note, 2 tbsp. all-purpose flour 1

cup milk

2 tbsp. sugar 3 large eggs 8

A

oz.

bread,

in

thick slices

cup unsalted butter or lard Bulide (see note)

PANERA LIGURIA

add the sugar and

A cup

coarsely ground coffee beans

CONTINUED

828

Add the bread and turn to coat

eggs.

thoroughly. Let stand

1

5 minutes.

When the bread has

soaked up the egg mixture, heat half the butter in a nonstick

pan and cook half the bread, turning,

until

golden

brown. Repeat with the remaining butter and soaked bread. Drizzle each slice with bulide and serve hot.

COFFEE ICE CREAM Mix

the coffee

heat and 2

page 818).

In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour and milk, then

when

and cream it

boils

wooden spoon. Remove

in a saucepan.

add the sugar, the

Put

this

over

stirring with a

pan from the heat and

stand until the coffee settles to the bottom.

At

let

that

8 cups heavy

cream

2/3 cups sugar

point drain

through a very fine

it

sieve,

making sure no

coffee grounds get into the liquid. Refrigerate until cold.

Put

this liquid in

an ice-cream machine and freeze ac-

cording to the manufacturer’s instructions.

PANESIGLIO AVERSANO

CAMPANIA

RAISIN BUNS Soak the lemon

zest in the milk for 6 hours, then pass

Combine

the mixture through a sieve. Grated zest of 1

J4

1

lemon

cups milk

3/3 cups all-purpose flour 1

Zi

cups sugar

2'A tsp. active dry yeast, dissolved

warm

milk

7 large

eggs

2tbsp.

Zi

Z2 cup Zi lb. (2 sticks)

in

cup raisins

candied

the sugar

surface to form a

packets) active dry yeast, in Zi Za

1

lb.

(2

cup

cup

warm water

milk,

warmed

cups) unsalted butter 2 cups sugar

3 large eggs plus 10 or 12 large egg yolks 1

soaked

in

cup golden raisins, water and drained Zi

Zi

in a bowl, cover

Grease a baking sheet

let rise.

with butter. Shape the dough into balls and arrange

them on

the baking sheet. Let rise again 2 to 3 hours.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Bake until golden, then

let

PANETTONE So many legends surround the origin of this Christmas sweet that

oz. (3

smooth dough. Place

with a kitchen towel, and

Fold

a floured

unsalted butter

LOMBARDIA

dissolved

Knead on

fruit.

cool completely before serving.

10 cups all-purpose flour

A

and candied

the flour with

in the eggs.

fruit

PANETTONE

3

and yeast mixture, then blend

in the raisins

FOR persons

8

cup diced citron

cup diced candied orange Salt

we

hardly dare go near the subject! Suffice to say

among

typical of Milan. This recipe,

it

is

the most traditional, has

been adapted for home use. Place about

cup of

1

flour

and

a pinch of salt

on the

work surface and add the yeast mixture. Work these gether to form a a

little loaf.

homogeneous mixture, then shape

Cover

a floured bowl,

and

this little loaf let

that period put about

face

and

at the

1 Zi

with a cloth, put

it

in

At the end of

rise 3 hours.

it

to-

into

cups of flour on the work sur-

center of this place the

little

risen loaf.

Soften the loaf with a few tablespoons of the milk

and combine

it

into a ball.

Let

for 2 hours.

with the

flour.

Knead

this well

this rise, as before, in a

Heat

a pot of water to a boil.

half of the butter in a

pan without burning

pan heat the sugar with

1

and shape

covered bowl

it.

cup warm water

Melt about another

J

to obtain a

s

In

syrup. Transfer the syrup to a heatproof bowl and whisk in the

eggs and egg yolks. Place the bowl on top of the

829

f

pot of water (making sure

and whisk

until thickened.

remaining

flour,

sprinkle with a

Put the risen

on

a

Pour about 6 cups of the

work surface or

little salt,

ball

does not touch the water)

it

and form

in a large bowl,

a well in the center.

of dough at the center of the well, then

add the melted butter and blend

Add

well.

mixture and incorporate the remaining flour a

Knead

a time.

blending

and

all

elastic

the egg little

at

good 20 minutes,

energetically for a

the ingredients to obtain a firm, smooth,

dough. Knead in the

raisins

and candied

Unless you have a very large oven, you’ll need to

fruit.

divide the mixture into two or

more

loaves.

flour a baking sheet, then grease your

and round

off the loaves, place

and place them

in a

warm

them on the baking

Put the loaves

.

sheet,

dry place free of drafts to

for about 6 hours (they have risen

than doubled in volume)

Butter and

hands with butter

when

they have

rise

more

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

in a cool place for a

few minutes then

bake. Melt the remaining butter and after 5 minutes

baking drizzle with the melted butter. Bake until golden,

about

1

hour, lowering the temperature by 25 degrees

every 15 minutes.

LOCAL TRADITION

PANFORTE MARGHERITA This traditional fruitcake recipe from Toscano closely follows the preparation for 824), with some differences in the ingredients and procedure. make the Margherita, a large amount of sugar was first combined with a similarly large amount of cubed classic candied citron and toasted almonds, smaller portions

Pampetato (see page

To

of candied

orange

and chopped

peel,

and marzipan paste, as well as all-purpose

vanilla beans,

cinnamon, and nutmeg, giving

it

its

flour, vanilla

sugar

characteristic flavor.

Both before and after baking the cake should be covered with confectioners’ sugar, with the final coating traditionally flavored with vanilla. The Margherita, again

Pampetato, should be wrapped

can be kept for several months.

830

in

aluminum

foil

like

the

once finished to avoid spoiling, and

I

PANGIALLO

LAZIO

I

YELLOW CAKE WITH FRUIT This cake

Form For the cake: 1

54

cups all-purpose flour

4 oz. risen bread dough; see page 13 (or

54 tsp.

1

dissolved

in

active dry yeast,

2tbsp.

1

54 54

olive oil

cup chopped candied citron cup pine nuts

Vs cup

54 lightly

olive

than that for bread.

oil.

Knead

to

form

dough

a

In a separate bowl

softer

combine the

raisins.

them

Thoroughly combine these ingredients then add

to the

Knead

dough.

ered with a cloth, in a

dough, then shape into

this

two medium-size loaves and

them

set

warm place for

1

aside to rise, cov-

Preheat

2 hours.

54

cup

Brush

this

the oven to 350°F. Prepare the glaze, blending

water with the flour, olive glaze

oil,

on the loaves then bake

and

for

saffron.

45 minutes.

cup shelled, peeled, chopped walnuts

toasted, and

2 large 1

almonds

cup hazelnuts

Vs

cinnamon, and

candied orange peel, candied citron, pine nuts, almonds,

cup extra-virgin

54

in a

hazelnuts, and walnuts. Stir in the egg whites and the

cup chopped candied orange peel 54

on the work surface or

bowl and add the bread dough (or yeast mixture), sugar,

water)

ground cinnamon

tsp.

usually served on Christmas.

cup sugar

warm 1

is

the flour into a well

54

cups

raisins,

egg whites

soaked

water

in

and drained

For the glaze: 1

tbsp. all-purpose flour

2tbsp. olive 54 tsp.

PANIERINI

Dl

oil

saffron

CREMA

SICILIA

CREAM BASKETS Lightly grease a

8

FOR PERSONS

work surface (marble would be

best).

Heat the sugar, 2 tablespoons water, and the lemon 254 cups sugar

Juice and grated zest of 1

54 lbs.

54

lemon

almonds, peeled and coarsely chopped

1

recipe pastry

cream

(see page 843)

Pistachios

in a

saucepan

until the sugar

almonds and lemon

zest

and

the sugar has caramelized. face

is

dissolved.

on

a

Pour

and spread smooth with cup flat

to

make

bottoms.

(or ricotta cream)

the

heat, stirring slowly, until this

on the work

a spatula.

cooled but not hardened cut into 4-inch

with

juice

Add

When

circles,

it

sur-

has

then form

baskets about the size of an orange Fill

each basket with pastry cream

and garnish with green

pistachios.

831

PANNA COTTA

PIEMONTE

VANILLA PANNA COTTA This

is

typical of Alba.

Soak the 4 gelatin sheets

Sugar

for caramelizing the

mold

Zi

cup whole milk

1

tsp. vanilla extract (or better,

two

vanilla beans, slit lengthwise)

and

bottom of a

the

plus 3tbsp.

4 cups heavy cream

gelatin in cold water to cover for

utes; drain

as dariole

mold or

large

about 30 min-

Caramelize sugar to coat

set aside.

molds (such

several small

molds) as in the recipe on page 791

Mix the

.

cream, milk, and 3 tablespoons sugar in a saucepan and bring almost to a boil; add the vanilla and gelatin, ring well to

combine

(if

before pouring into the mold)

molds;

let

stir-

using vanilla beans remove them .

Pour

into the

mold or

cool, then put in the refrigerator for several

To unmold, pass

hours before serving.

the

mold over

a

flame for a second (or dip in hot water), then invert on a serving plate, letting the caramelized sugar drip over the

panna

D

I

PANZAROTTINI CASTAGNACCIO

CAMPANIA For the 1

1

lb.

filling:

chestnuts

sprig rosemary

Pinch ground cinnamon Va

cup strong brewed coffee 2 tbsp. Strega liqueur

Zi

CHESTNUT PANZAROTTINI Boil the chestnuts in water to cover with a sprig of rose-

mary and a little salt. Drain the and pass them through a food mill. Use

cup sugar 1

lemon Salt

For the dough: 1

1

Za

cups all-purpose flour

large egg plus

1

large egg white

Olive

oil,

for frying

% cup honey Confectioners’ sugar

832

the flour

recipe

and whole egg

on page

Roll this out to

1

0,

Combine

make

Vz

to prepare a

% cup

adding

the result-

dough

filling.

as in the

water with the egg.

a thin sheet (see note,

Using a pastry wheel cut 1

%

chestnuts, shell them,

ing puree with the remaining ingredients for the

cup unsweetened cocoa powder

Grated zest of

cotta.

this into small

page 212).

squares about

Place a teaspoon of filling on each

inches on a side.

square, brush the edges with egg white, and fold over to create triangles. Seal well with the tines of a fork.

2 inches of olive

Heat the honey

oil in

until

a

saucepan and fry

it is

panzarottini while they are fectioners’ sugar

and

Heat

until golden.

thinned and drizzle over the still

serve.

warm. Sprinkle with con-

PAPASSINOS

SARDEGNA

NUT AND RAISIN CANDY This recipe

Chop 3 cups

%cup

almonds

walnut halves 2

cups raisins

2 cups cooked wine

must

(see note, page 818)

Confectioners’ sugar

Candy-coated almonds, crushed

is

typical of Nuoro.

together the almonds and walnuts and transfer to

a saucepan.

Add

the raisins and blend in the wine must.

Cook over low heat until thickened. When this come homogeneous, pour it onto a damp work and cut

surface

Set these out on a board, cover

into squares.

with a cloth, and

has be-

them dry

let

for 2 days. Just before

serving, sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar

and crushed

candy-coated almonds.

PARADEL

LOMBARDIA

APPLE PANCAKES This recipe

Whisk 4 cups cold milk

m

cups all-purpose flour

and

sliced

raisins, softened in

water

cup of this

Z2 inch

batter:

thick.

and drained Zi

zone of Lake Como.

to

make

apples, raisins,

olive oil in a skillet

each

fritter

a batter;

and pine and pour

pan

as needed.

add the nuts.

in

about

should not be more than

Repeat with the remaining

olive oil to the

A cup

2

and eggs

salt,

Heat 2 tablespoons 1

4 apples, peeled, cored,

typical of the middle

sugar, a pinch of

4 large eggs

% cup sugar, plus more for dusting

is

the milk, flour,

batter,

adding

Dust with sugar before

serving.

cup pine nuts, toasted

Extra-virgin olive

for frying

oil,

Salt

PARADULAS

SARDEGNA

RICOTTA-STUFFED COOKIES Preheat the oven to 350°F. Use the flour and egg whites to

1

% cups all-purpose flour 2 large eggs, separated 1

tbsp. lard

1

lb.

ricotta

% cup sugar Pinch saffron

Grated zest of

1

orange

Confectioners’ sugar (or honey)

make

a

dough

as in the recipe

lard with the egg whites.

on page 751, adding the

Combine the

ricotta in a

with the sugar, egg yolks, saffron, a pinch of

bowl

salt,

orange zest and mix well with a wooden spoon.

and Roll

out the dough to form a ^-inch-thick sheet and cut

it

into disks about 3 inches in diameter.

Put a dollop of

the filling in the center of each disk then

lift

place

it

in

the disk and

your palm. Squeeeze your palm to make a

small cup without a

lid, like

a small open-faced pie.

Salt

833

Place these on a baking sheet and bake until the

filling

browns. Dust with confectioners’ sugar or honey before serving.

ALMOND CAKE GLAZED PARROZZO

D

I

PESCARA

ABRUZZO 3

unsalted butter

oz. (6 tbsp.)

h cup

2

blanched almonds

WITH CHOCOLATE This recipe

is

(a native of

Pescara) had

typical of Pescara.

much

The poet Gabriele D’Annunzio

to say

in

praise of this sweet.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a cake pan. Sprinkle

almonds with 2 tablespoons sugar and grind them

the

in

3

A cup sugar

5 large eggs, separated

%

cup all-purpose flour /i

cup cornstarch

8 oz. bittersweet chocolate

Melt the butter

a mortar.

in the top of a

double

boiler,

then add the egg yolks and the remaining sugar. Cook, stirring, until thickened,

then

stir in

the

ground almonds.

Add the flour and the cornstarch. Whip until stiff

and

them

fold

the egg whites

Pour the

into the mixture.

mixture into the cake pan and bake for 45 minutes.

PASTA

MANDORLE

Dl

SICILIA

When

the cake

double

boiler,

is

cool, melt the chocolate in the top of a

then pour over the cake.

ALMOND PASTE The primary use of almond paste

the creation of

is in

shaped sweets. Tradition ascribes the invention 2 cups sugar 3 cups almonds,

ground

A cup

2

into a fine

meal

all-purpose flour

fruit-

of these

realistic-looking sweets, or fruits, to the Benedictine sisters

Palermo, which was so

of the

monastery of Martorana

mous

for these colorful creations

in

in

they were known as “frutti alia Martorana .” Used for

commemoration

of

All

fa-

the Middle Ages that

Saints’ Day

in

the past

and Christmas, they

can today be found more or less year-round. Other sweets

made

using almond paste include the picureddi

(“little

sheep”) found everywhere at Easter time, the horses and

donkeys at Acireal for

St.

Anthony (January

made around Palermo

pigs

Melt the sugar soon

as

it

at

starts to

very low heat in

still

in the

at

firm. until

834

Vi

cup of water.

a

little

until the

sides of the pan,

As

is lifted

candy thermometer),

almond meal and all-purpose

low heat, and cook

from the

and the

form threads when the spoon

from the pan (223°F to 234°F on pour

17),

for St. Sebastian (January 20).

flour. Stir this,

mixture pulls away

becoming dense and very

Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Knead smooth, put

in

molds, and color as desired.

.

1)

The

3 cups

variation uses different ingredients but

first

same method of preparation: 2 cups

follows the

ground almonds,

1 Za

cups

cream of tartar (added with the

2)

The second variation also has

and

flour,

sugar,

tablespoon

1

flour)

different ingredients, but

uses the same preparation: 2 cups sugar, 2 tablespoons water, IZ2 cups

3)

2

ground almonds, and

l /3

cups

flour.

This third variation consists of simply adding V2 tea-

spoon

vanilla extract with the

almond

and pro-

flour

ceeding as above.

I

PASTIERA

CAMPANIA

I

WHEAT-BERRY RICOTTA TART This recipe

is

typical of Naples.

The tart improves

to rest for 2 or 3 days in a box at

For the 1

Vi

filling:

cups soft white wheat berries 2/3 cups milk 1

1

Zi

and orange

zest at

low

heat for several hours until the mixture becomes creamy

and the wheat has softened. Refrigerate overnight.

extract

orange

Zi

4 large eggs, separated to 2 tsp. orange-flower Zi tsp.

water

cinnamon

% cup chopped candied fruits For the pastry dough: 3/3 cups all-purpose flour

cups sugar 4

Za lb. (1 stick)

the wheat berries with the milk,

lard, vanilla,

Make

2 cups ricotta

Za

cup of the sugar,

cups sugar

Zi tsp. vanilla

1

Za

allowed

if

room temperature.

2tbsp. lard

Grated zest of

1

The day before, simmer

poR PERSONS

10

oz.

lard

unsalted butter

4 large egg yolks

Grated zest of

1

lemon

Confectioners’ sugar

the pastry: Blend the flour, sugar, lard,

until the

yolks

mixture looks

and lemon

zest

like

and

and butter

coarse sand. Blend in the egg hour.

let it rest for at least 1

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease a pie pan with butter.

Mix

the ricotta in a bowl with the remaining

1 Za

cups

of sugar then add the egg yolks one at a time, half the orange-flower water, and cinnamon. Add to this the wheat

mixture and the candied

fruit. Stir well to

3 of the egg whites until stiff and fold ture;

when

the mixture

enough orange-water ing teaspoon. to

form

pan.

is

them

into the

blended check to see

flavor

and

if

Beat

blend.

mix-

there

if

is

not add the remain-

Roll out two-thirds of the pastry

dough

and use

baking

a /i-inch-thick sheet

Pour the mixture

it

to line the

in the pan, leveling

Roll

off.

it

out the remaining third of the pastry dough on a sheet of

waxed paper, forming

it

into a rectangle as long as the

diameter of the pan. Using the sions in the

dough

that divide

tip

it

of a knife

into

make

%-inch-wide

inci-

strips.

Following these incisions cut through the waxed paper, creating strips of dough attached to

one of the

strips,

turn

it

over,

waxed paper.

and position

it

Take

along the

835

center of the cake where the diameter

ond and central

is

greatest, then

waxed paper. Continue with

delicately pull off the

one and about

1

inch to the side of it. Put on the

next strips but apply these crosswise, forming a over diamond-shaped openings. pick inserted

Let

PATTONA

TOSCANA

it

comes out dry and

lb.

chestnut flour Salt

once: do not

stir,

With the pan

wooden spoon

% cup Vz

all-purpose flour

cup

finely

ground

blanched almonds Vi

cup

egg whites, beaten

stiff

CONTINUED

the flour

this

all at

simmer

for

off the heat,

stir

it

the mix-

while slowly adding back the

even off the surface with a wooden spoon

a

it

the mixture

is

smooth, transfer

and put back on the

in fresh water,

work surface with

a cloth.

up” from

and break) turn

As soon

it

heat.

as this

mix-

boiling (bubbles will rise

it

out on the work surface.

cool before cutting and serving.

FOR 6-8 persons

LAYER CAKE

cup almonds and

If

you cannot find bitter almonds, use

Zi

teaspoon almond extract. Decorate the finished cake with

chocolate leaves,

if

sugar until

fluffy,

Cream

salt.

Add

the blanched

almonds, then fold in the egg whites.

round pan

the butter and the

then add the flour in a steady stream,

then add a pinch of

in a

1

desired.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Spread

and this

bitter

dough

Bake for

to a thickness of about Vz inch.

30 minutes, remove from the oven, and

let cool.

Make

the zabaglione. Bring a pot of water to a simmer. In a

heatproof bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until the sugar

is

dissolved. Place over the

water and whisk in the Marsala and

836

all

finely

bitter

3 large

ground toasted almonds (see note)

in

Let

to another pan,

Let

cup sugar

FQR PERSONS

When

to the surface

plus 2 tbsp

pour

boil

do not touch.

ture begins to “puff

1

6

cooking water.

Cover

unsalted butter

browned.

is

about 30 minutes, then drain off the water, setting

dampened

Va lb. (1 stick)

dough

Bring 4 cups of lighdy salted water to a boil in a pot. As

ture with a

VENETO

the

lattice

until a tooth-

SWEET CHESTNUT POLENTA

aside nearby.

PAZIENTINA

Bake

cool and dust with confectioners’ sugar.

soon as the water begins to 1

a sec-

third strip, putting each of these parallel to the

flour.

simmering Continue

.

1

baked Polentina

tbsp.

alchermes (see

whisking until the mixture

di Cittadella

(see page 846), sprinkled with

mounds when

1

oz.

is

frothy

is

lifted

and thick and

falls in

out of the mixture. Let

page 786)

note, s

2

the whisk

Spread half of the zabaglione over the almond

cool.

semisweet chocolate, melted

cake.

Top with

the Polentina di Cittadella.

Top with

the

Salt

remaining zabaglione and set aside in a cool place.

t

Level off the surface and drizzle with melted chocolate.

For the zabaglione: 5 large 1

egg yolks

% cups sugar

2 cups Marsala

%cup

all-purpose flour

PEPATELLI

ABRUZZO

I

HONEY BISCUITS Preheat the oven to 300°F. Whisk together the flour, cocoa, zest, and a pinch of pepper. Stir in the honey, then

6% cups 1

tbsp.

all-purpose flour

unsweetened cocoa powder Grated zest of 1

1

/3

1

orange

cups honey

% cups chopped almonds

knead

in the

Form

the

almonds

dough

Bake

slightly flatten.

minutes. While cookies V2 to

%

(the

dough

will

be

relatively firm)

into long cylinders then press

still

until lightly

them

to

browned, about 25

very warm, cut the cylinders into

inch thick. Let cool completely.

Pepper

LOCAL TRADITION

PEVARINI

DI

Typical of the Veneto, the elegant cookies

TREGNANO known as pevarini

di

Tregnano get sweet-

ness from molasses and a subtle bite from white pepper. Flour, sugar, baking powder,

and pepper are mixed with lard and a generous amount of molasses to form a smooth dough, then cut into long strips. The long strips are baked just

and the cooling cookies would be brushed with

a glaze of

until

cooked through,

simple syrup.

PERE MARTINE AL VINO NERO DELLA VALLE

VALLE D'AOSTA

PEARS IN WINE Serve the pears with their cooking liquid only or with whipped

cream. 8 pears (preferably Martin Sec;

Bose can also be used)

Place the pears in a saucepan and pour over the red

Add the sugar, cinnamon, clove, and lemon peel. Cover the pan and cook at low heat for about 30 minutes

wine. 1

cup red wine (preferably from the Valle d’Aosta: Petit Rouge, Torrette,

Enfer d’Arvier, Donnaz)

A cup

2

Zi

sugar

cinnamon 1

or until

forms a thick syrup not unlike cherries

it

stick

whole clove

Peel of Vi lemon,

in

strips

PESCHE RIPIENE

1

LIGURIA

BAKED AMARETTO PEACHES Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a round cake pan.

Rinse the peaches and cut them in Unsalted butter 4 large, ripe peaches

A cups

2 1

crushed amaretti 20 hazelnuts

Zi

cup pastry cream (see page 843) 1

tbsp. amaretto liqueur

2 tbsp. sugar, or as

h cup y

jubilee.

Let cool completely before serving.

needed

dry white wine,

such as Pigato or Vermentino Confectioners’ sugar

pit.

a

half,

removing the

Scoop out most of the pulp and reserve

little

it.

(Leave

pulp to help the peaches keep their shape.)

Finely chop the amaretti and 12 of the hazelnuts, then

add them

to the

cream and

peach pulp and blend.

liqueur.

halves; arrange

Use

them

this

Add the pastry

mixture to stuff the peach

in the cake pan.

At the center of

each peach half press one of the remaining hazelnuts;

Pour the white wine

sprinkle with sugar.

and bake

for about 10 minutes. Let cool

into the

pan

and sprinkle

with confectioners’ sugar just before serving.

PESCHE RIPIENE

2

EMILIA-ROMAGNA Unsalted butter 8 large, ripe peaches 3 large eggs, separated 1

1

cup sugar

cup blanched almonds, ground to a flour

STUFFED PEACHES Modena. You can use

This recipe

is

amaretti

place of the almonds.

in

typical of

finely

crushed

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Butter a baking sheet. Cut the

peaches in half and remove the

pits

so as to enlarge the space for the

pulp in a mixing bowl. until pale

the

and

thick,

Whisk

and most of the pulp filling,

reserving the

the egg yolks

and sugar

then add to the peach pulp.

Mix

in

almonds and bread. Whip the whites of 2 eggs and

CONTINUED fold into the mixture.

838

Fill

the peach halves with the

Bread of

soaked in milk and squeezed dry

roll,

1

Confectionens' sugar

PESCHE SCALIGERE

VENETO

mixture and place them on the baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes. Let cool slightly and dust with confectioners’ sugar. Serve

warm.

STUFFED PEACHES WITH ALMONDS This recipe

is

typical of Verona.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Peel the peaches, cut them in 8 firm, yellow peaches 3 tbsp. unsalted butter 3

A cup

blanched almonds,

and remove the

half,

the

filling

toasted and finely chopped 10 amaretti, crumbled and ground tbsp.

grappa

Vi

cup sugar

/}

cup honey

Butter a baking sheet and

Meanwhile prepare

it.

by combining the almonds with the amaretti,

grappa, sugar, and honey. this

1

pits.

arrange the peach halves across

Fill

the peach halves with

mixture and put them in the oven. Bake for

2 minutes according to the size of the peaches. the peaches at

cream on the

at least

Serve

room temperature, perhaps with whipped

side.

LOCAL TRADITION

PESCHE

D

I

CASTELBOTTACCIO were baked sweet

"Stuffed peaches,” typical of Molise,

cream that resembled the luscious peaches

made from

flour, eggs, olive

balls the size of walnuts.

bled

in

oil,

sugar, and yeast dissolved

at low heat without

brushed with a

step

was

be arranged

in

little

sweet yellow

dough was

milk and shaped into until

the balls dou-

browning. After the “peaches”

a small hole

the cream piped into the center. Each “peach”

final

in

The dough was set aside to rest and rise

volume and were then baked

were removed from the oven and had cooled,

finally

rolls filled with a

of the Italian countryside. The

would be made

was then bathed

in

in

each and

sugar syrup, and

red liqueur to give them the perfect red-gold color. The

to roll each “peach”

in

confectioners’ sugar; they would traditionally

straw baskets and decorated with bay leaves to look almost

peaches gathered from the orchard.

like real

PICCIDDATI D NATALE 1

SICILIA

CHRISTMAS RING CAKES This recipe

Knead For the dough: ZYi cups all-purpose flour 2 Va tsp. active dry yeast

For the

filling:

% cup raisins % cup shelled walnuts 3 cups 2

chopped dried

A cup

figs

shelled and finely chopped almonds

Pinch ground cinnamon 1

cup honey, plus more as needed Olive

oil

2 large egg yolks

is

typical of Corleone.

together the flour, yeast, and

1

cup water

to pre-

pare a somewhat soft and homogeneous dough. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and In a saucepan

combine the

let rise for a

few hours.

raisins, walnuts, figs, al-

monds, and cinnamon. Add the honey and cook heat, stirring constantly.

Cook

until the

adding more honey

soft paste,

if

needed. Set aside to

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease a baking sheet

cool.

with olive thick

the

dough

Roll out the

oil.

and cut

When

it

filling

to

in long strips 2 to

has cooled, form

it

form

a sheet

dough, rolling them up

Cut these

like a

form

strips of

salame to enclose the

fill-

and

join

Make

rings.

inch

into small cylinders

into sections about 8 inches long

the two ends to

Vs

2 V2 inches wide.

about IV2 inches thick and place these on the

ing.

low

at

mixture forms a

incisions along the

lengths of the rings to allow heat to escape during cooking.

Brush with egg

and bake

for

Place on the baking sheet

yolks.

30 minutes, or

until they are golden.

Serve

hot or cold.

PIGNA(LA)

LAZIO

RING CAKE For Easter every family

in

Formia prepares

made

the past these ring cakes were 3/3 cups all-purpose flour Vi 1

cup sugar

Vs tsp. active

Va lb. (1 stick)

dry yeast

unsalted butter 3 large eggs Vi

cup milk

Vanilla 1

sugar

large hard-boiled egg, for serving Salt

same used

own

pigna.

is

In

made

using active dry yeast.

Whisk together yeast.

the flour, sugar, a pinch of

Then blend

for a long time to

form

and

a soft,

and

set aside in a cool spot to

and

milk.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a baking sheet.

rise.

Form

the

dough

into a ring

and place the sheet

oven. Bake until the surface browns.

nilla

salt,

Knead smooth dough. Form into

in the butter, eggs,

a ball, cover with a cloth,

pletely.

A

in the

Let cool com-

few minutes before serving dust with the va-

sugar and place the traditional shelled, hard-boiled

egg in the center.

840

its

using native yeast, the

for baking bread, but today the dish

PIGNOCCATA AL MIELE

CALABRIA

HONEY COOKIES Whisk together a pinch of

IVz cups all-purpose flour

%cup

plus

tbsp. sugar

1

3 tsp. active dry yeast

34tsp. Vi

ground cinnamon

cup orange liqueur

Grated zest of peel of

1

orange and

1

orange, cut

in

oz. lard,

eggs

melted

2 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened Olive

oil,

to

the flour,

make

a

%

cup sugar,

and grated

liqueur,

dough

zest.

yeast,

Use

as in the recipe

cinnamon,

the mixture

on page 751,

adding the lard and butter with the eggs. Cover with a Roll the

dough

out to a ^-inch-thick sheet. Heat 2 inches of olive

oil in a

and

cloth

set aside to rise for

hour.

1

saucepan. Cut the dough into squares and fry them until golden; drain on paper towels.

Heat the honey, remain-

strips

3 large 1

and eggs

salt,

ing sugar, and orange peels in a large

Add

and

the fried squares

stir

on a serving

the honey, then arrange

skillet at

them around plate.

low

heat.

to soak

up

Serve cool.

for frying

2 tbsp. honey Salt

PINZA GORIZI AN A

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

EASTER CAKE This Easter cake

is

prepared

find the citron essence, use

3/3 cups all-purpose flour 1

Zi

cups sugar

2)4 tsp. active dry yeast 1

Vi

cups whole milk

% cup unsalted butter, melted and cooled

slightly

instead. This recipe

First leavening:

tbsp.

three stages.

%

cup

flour,

the loaf

again

you cannot

2 tablespoons

and the yeast with

loaf.

just

enough

Set aside to rise for about 30

ing flour, the remaining sugar, butter,

rum

If

tablespoon grated lemon zest

Second leavening: combine half the remain-

minutes.

salt, 1

salt,

milk to form a small

in

typical of Gorizia.

combine

sugar, a pinch of

2 large eggs plus 9 yolks

1

is

1

make

tbsp. citron essence (see note)

leavening:

from the

a loaf. This time let

1

egg plus 6 yolks,

and enough milk

first stage,

rise

it

1

hour.

on the work surface knead the remaining

Salt

to

Third flour

rum and citron esand remaining milk. Knead this

with the remaining egg yolks, the sence, the risen loaf,

dough until smooth and not

sticky.

and

hour.

set

it

aside to rise for

1

Shape

it

into a round,

Preheat the oven to

325°F. Beat the remaining egg and brush on the dough.

Bake

for

40 minutes,

until light golden.

841

MADONNA

PITTA DELLA

CALABRIA

OLIVE OIL NUT CAKE This recipe

is

typical of Crotone. This

the Madonna, May For the dough: 6 cups all-purpose flour

3tbsp. sugar

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a round cake pan with olive

oil.

of the dough.

cup

1

orange

cups sugar

being careful to keep the the strips into rosettes.

form

a sheet

and use

it

PIZZA CON LE NOCI

ABRUZZO

% cups all-purpose flour

4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

4 K2 cups ground walnuts 2 tbsp. bitter cocoa bitter chocolate

bottom and

in so they touch. Press the sheet lining the

as in the recipe

Spread

this

up

form a

cups raisins tbsp.

rum

large egg yolk Salt

842

Mix

a

dough

the walnuts,

down

the side of the sheet of raisins,

the mixture like a salame, then fold in

spiral.

slightly.

sliced.

1

mixture

dough, then sprinkle with the honey,

and rum.

on

itself to

Place on the baking sheet and press to

flat-

Brush with the egg yolk and bake for about

cups honey

1

make

olive oil in place of

cocoa, chocolate, sugar, cinnamon, and candied citron.

45 minutes, or 14

olive oil to

on page 751 using the

the eggs. Roll out into a thin sheet.

ten

1

Dust with sugar and

dark golden, about 20 minutes.

cup chopped candied citron 14

brush

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with

Roll

1

sides of the pan;

WALNUT-FILLED PIZZA

4 tbsp. sugar

Pinch ground cinnamon

out; shape

Roll out the smaller loaf to

in to adhere to the rosettes. until

into strips,

from coming

Arrange the stuffed rosettes in the pan,

oil.

them

filling

parchment. Use the flour and

14

together

Sprinkle

inch larger than the diameter of the pan

1

to line the

with olive

bake

cups chopped

Mix zest.

Cover with the remaining sheet and cut

pan

Za

cotto.

mixture over the sheet of dough and dust with sugar.

this

pressing

1

about

and orange

and sprinkle with vin

olive oil

the raisins, walnuts, cinnamon,

it

1

and

diameter

in

olive oil

ground cinnamon

]4

inches

vi

cups raisins

Grated zest of

30

%

Yu inch thick. Lightly grease one of these sheets with a

% cups chopped walnuts

1

on

form two

Roll out the larger loaf to

about

sheets

little

]4tsp.

and use

as in the recipe

filling:

n cotto (see note, page 818)

1

a pinch of salt

dough

the eggs to prepare a

Divide the dough into two loaves, the larger one using

lemon

1

cup extra-virgin

Zi

Mix the flour, sugar, and

them and

page 751, adding the lard and lemon zest with the eggs.

For the

1

for the feast of

12 tbsp. lard

Salt

J4

made

3 large eggs

Grated zest of

Za

is

8.

until golden.

Let

it

cool and serve

PIZZA

RICOTTA

Dl

PUGLIA

RICOTTA PIE a

Vi

ricotta

lb.

1

1

cups sugar egg yolks

3 large

Grated zest of

orange

1

Vi

diced candied fruit

cup anise liqueur (or Strega) Pastry dough (packaged or

prepared as

in

the recipe

on page 773)

Incorporate the egg yolks one at a

without lumps. time, then

pinch of

stir in

salt,

the orange zest, vanilla, candied fruit, a

and

dough and use filling,

A cup

the ricotta and sugar in

mixing bowl, working well to obtain a smooth mixture

2tsp. vanilla extract 2

Mix

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

it

Roll out half of the pastry

liqueur.

to line a 9-inch pie pan.

smoothing to an even

ing pastry and cover the

layer. Roll

filling,

Spoon

using a fork to seal the

Pierce the surface with the tip of a knife

edges.

for about

1

in the

out the remain-

and bake

Let cool completely, dust

hour, until golden.

with confectioners’ sugar and vanilla sugar, and serve.

Confectioners’ sugar

sugar

Vanilla

Salt

ALMOND AND PIZZA DOLCE

ABRUZZO

CHOCOLATE LAYER CAKE This recipe

is

6

typical of Pescara. In place of

FOR PERSONS

alchermes you

can use strong coffee. Serve with whipped cream and cherry Olive

oil

and all-purpose

flour,

for the baking

pan

For the sponge cake: 10 large eggs, separated Vi

cup sugar

lOtbsp. all-purpose flour 1

tsp.

baking powder (optional) Grated zest of 1

1

lemon

tsp. vanilla extract

syrup

if

desired.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease a round 10-inch cake

pan with

olive oil

and dust with

flour

and baking powder,

if

8 large

egg yolks

Make

the sponge

constantly stirring, then add the

whip the egg whites

stiff

lemon

Let cool completely

on medium speed

zest

and fold them

mixture into the pan and bake until utes.

set,

in the pan.

until pale

% cup

and

vanilla;

Pour the

about 40 min-

For the pastry

sugar with a mixer

thick,

saucepan and cook over low heat.

and

in.

then whisk in the

flour in a steady stream. Whisk in the milk. a

add the

using, in a steady stream,

cream: beat the egg yolks and For the pastry cream

and chocolate cream:

flour.

cake: beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar,

Pour this

When

into

the mixture

3

A cup sugar

4tbsp. all-purpose flour 4 cups whole milk

Grated zest of 2 tsp. ground Zl

1

lemon

cinnamon

begins to thicken (after about 5 minutes), add the lemon zest at

Stir

and continue cooking

to thicken to the consistency of

pudding.

Remove from the heat and let stand until cool, then make the chocolate cream. Whisk together the remaining

cup cocoa powder Zi

CONTINUED

and half the cinnamon.

low heat

cup sugar, cocoa, and remaining cinnamon and mix

in half of the pastry

cream, whisking until blended. Set

843

For the almond paste: 1

cup

1

on a candy thermometer), then gradually add the almond meal and lemon zest, stirring to form a dense

1

lemon

paste.

2 tbsp.

rum

2tbsp. milk note,

page 786)

large egg white, beaten

Confectioners’ sugar tsp.

lemon juice

Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightiy.

Cut the cooled sponge cake crosswise

For assembly:

1

1% cups

ground

finely

Grated zest of

1

in

water until the mixture forms threads (223°F to 234°F

blanched almonds

Alchermes (see

For the almond paste: heat the sugar

aside.

% cups sugar

of the same thickness. Place the ing plate.

Mix

rum and

together the

4 disks

milk and brush the

disk generously (you should use

first

to create

of these on a serv-

first

all

of the liquid).

Spread evenly with pastry cream, then top with the sec-

ond

disk of cake.

and cover with

Brush the second disk with alchermes

a layer of the

and brush

third layer

almond

paste.

Top with

the

as before with either additional

rum-milk mixture or additional alchermes. Spread evenly with the chocolate cream; top with the

Whisk

of cake.

last disk

together the egg white with enough confectioners’

sugar to

make

a thin glaze, then whisk in the

lemon

juice.

Pour this glaze over the top of the cake, spreading to make a

PIZZA DOLCE CON LA PASTELLA

LAZIO

little

1

A

oil

cups all-purpose flour 1

A cups Zi

cornmeal

cup sugar

down

the sides of the cake.

CORNMEAL AND RAISIN CAKE In

the past this cake

the Lard or olive

of the glaze drip

fire (dried

was baked

in

wood-burning ovens when

when it “flamed some towns in the provTarquinia, and so on), it is made

branches) was at

its

hottest:

up,” to translate the dialect word. In

ince of Viterbo (Tuscania,

using only cornmeal or leftover polenta, which with water to

become creamy.

This

is

Zi

cup

raisins,

soaked in water and drained 14 tsp.

cinnamon

of this cake,

oil.

softened

The dialect name

Diomeneguardi (“may God watch over

it”),

may

have been intended to reflect the special appreciation given

cake during a period of simple tastes suited to the ab-

this Vi

is

then seasoned on the

surface with sugar, cinnamon, and olive

cup pine nuts (optional)

sence of resources. 1

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a sheet pan with lard Salt

or olive 1

oil.

cup water,

Mix

the flour and cornmeal in a bowl with

a pinch of salt,

have a thick batter that the raisins and

mix

the

844

Mix

it

Work

sugar. You should

this together

Add with a

homogeneous and pour into the

the remaining sugar

dough with

and cinnamon and dust

the mixture. Sprinkle with pine nuts, as

desired.

Before putting

olive

Bake

oil.

and % cup

almost a wet dough.

to blend.

wooden spoon to make pan.

is

until

this in the

oven drizzle with

dark golden, about 20 minutes.

PIZZA DOLCE

EASTER BUNS

PASQUA

Dl

UMBRIA

Vin

santo

rosolio,

cup

warmed

milk,

much

as needed

dough and

12 large eggs

The

V/i cups sugar

Z

until pale

1

Marsala,

to

form

rosolio,

you can’t find Vz

is

.

and

high mold,

about 45 minutes or

filling

medium speed

vanilla.

Mix

this

with

and yeasted dough

in a 6-inch-

Bake

to three-quarters.

for

until golden.

extract

MARENGO

1

CORNMEAL SPONGE CAKE Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour a cake pan.

Beat the egg yolks and sugar with a mixer on lb. (Zi

best)

lemon and orange

and place each one

them up

cinnamon

PIEMONTE Z

teaspoon

a soft dough. Let rest for 2 hours. balls

(see note) Zi tsp. vanilla

Dl

thick. Whisk in the butter,

Divide into 6 equal

cup Marsala

tsp. rosolio liqueur with

POLENTA

and knead

santo (see note) Zi

If

2 hours (overnight

the remaining flour, remaining yeast,

and 2 oranges vin

and

zests, vin santo ,

Grated zest of 2 lemons

cup

let rise at least

eggs and sugar with an electric mixer on

unsalted butter

Zi

sweet dessert wine.

teaspoon rose water and

next morning preheat the oven to 350°F. Beat the

stick) plus 6 tbsp.

lb. (1

Zz

Mix half the yeast with the milk. Form a well with half the flour and add the yeast mixture. Knead to form a soft

slightly

6 cups all-purpose flour,

or as

a golden,

ground cinnamon.

4 1/2tsp. (2 packets) active dry yeast Zi

is

you can use

cup) unsalted butter,

speed until pale and

thick.

medium

Beat the egg whites until

softened stiff

but not dry, then fold into the yolk mixture.

Fold

All-purpose flour

in the 3 large eggs, separated

until 1

Vi Zz

cup sugar

cup cornmeal

cup cornstarch

cup potato starch

Zi

2 tbsp.

almond

Grated zest of Zi

1

flour

cornmeal, starches, almond flour, and lemon zest

smooth. Fold

Pour the mixture

in the raisins

into the

and softened

pan and bake

butter.

for about

1

hour.

Let cool completely, then cover the cake with a thin layer of

almond paste and

sprinkle with finely

crumbled

sponge cake.

lemon

cup golden raisins

For the covering: Zi

cup almond paste (see page 834) Zi

cup sponge cake crumbs (see page 843)

845

LOCAL TRADITION PIZZE

D

PASQUA

I

Easter pizzas are a long-standing tradition to

in Lazio;

the gleaming copper pans used

bake them were hung on the kitchen wall throughout the year and became prized

heirlooms for daughters when they married. Each family would have particular favorite variations or "secret recipes” (such as adding or using fewer eggs, adding butter, or

the choice of liqueurs) depending on taste, but the most basic recipe, typical ofViterbo, involved using natural yeast yield a very soft, pliant

—aged

yeast

left

over from bread making

—and

flour to

dough. After the dough rested for at least twelve hours, up to

two dozen eggs, sugar, cinnamon,

vanilla,

grated orange and lemon zest, and vari-

ous sweet liqueurs would be carefully incorporated during several hours of laborious kneading. The special copper pans would be greased and then with portions of the dough, which would then be set aside

and

in

filled at

most halfway

special chests to rest

An egg wash was brushed atop the risen dough before the pizzas were

rise again.

baked to create a shiny brown burnish. During baking, the pizzas would expand farther than the rims of the copper pans, giving them their characteristic

POLENTINADI CITTADELLA

VENETO

I

mushroom

shape.

FOR 6-8 PERSONS

SPONGE CAKE Dissolve the flour and starch in the milk.

Add

of the eggs, baking powder, and the yeast. 1

A

cups all-purpose flour

% cup potato starch 6 or

more

tbsp. milk

4 large eggs, separated 1

1

tsp.

baking powder

% tsp. active dry yeast

4 tbsp. unsalted butter, for the pan

egg whites of

a

1

the resulting

hour.

the

to the mixture with a pinch

dough

in a

warm

cloth

and

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Butter

round pan with 3-inch

sides

and sprinkle with bread-

increasing the temperature 25 degrees every 15 minutes until the cake rises 1

846

Wrap about

add them

crumbs. Pour the mixture into the pan and bake, gradually

Breadcrumbs Salt

salt.

let rest

stiff and

the yolks

Whip

hour.

above the sides of the pan, about

PUTIZA

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

TRIESTINE YEAST CAKE

1

%

Va tsp. active

cup

milk,

dry yeast

warmed

slightly

334 cups all-purpose flour 1

3

A cup

(1 Yi

34

cups sugar

sticks) unsalted butter,

melted, plus

1

cup

large egg plus 2 yolks

4 oz. (4 squares) semisweet

chocolate 1

% cups chopped walnuts 1

Yi Vz

flour

and

When the

rise.

butter,

1

teaspoon sugar;

1

mixture has doubled,

cup sugar, egg

and

yolks,

stir in

the melted

Knead

egg.

1

milk. Stir

set this aside to

in the

remaining flour and work to make a firm dough. the chocolate

and whisk

in the

Melt

remaining milk.

Stir in

the walnuts, remaining sugar, softened butter, rum, rai-

tbsp.,

softened slightly 1

% cup

In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in in Vz

tbsp.

rum

cup raisins

cup pine nuts

RATAFIA

LAZIO

sins,

and pine nuts

cylinder and set aside to rise

1

it

on a baking

sheet.

this

up

cylinder to

Bake

to

form a

Preheat the oven

hour.

Bend in the ends of the

and place

to

mixture along

thick. Sprinkle this

one side of the sheet of dough. Roll

to 400°F.

dough out

until blended. Roll the

form a sheet Yu inch

for

form a

spiral

20 minutes, then

reduce the oven temperature to 350°F and bake until golden, about 20 minutes more.

SPICED WINE This recipe

is

typical of

Maenza, Prossedi, Pisterzo, and

Cisterna. 1

if

lb.

black cherries (wild,

Crush the cherry

pits to obtain

about

Vz

cup of crushed

possible), pitted (pits reserved)

Combine

seeds.

all

the ingredients except the sugar

2 cups red wine

and liqueur

in a large stoppered bottle or sterilized

wine

A few cinnamon sticks bottle (without

its

straw covering).

Close the bottle

A few whole cloves

with

its

stopper or a cork. Let stand 40 days, opening the

Pinch whole coriander seeds 2 cups sugar, or as needed

bottle twice a

time. 1

34

day and shaking the bottle from time

to

After this period of fermentation strain the liquid

cups high-proof alcohol, or as needed

through cheesecloth, then measure bottle.

Add

2 cups sugar and

every 4 cups of liquid. Let stand

it

and return

it

to the

Wz cups alcohol for 3 more days, shaking

the liquid every so often, then strain into a sterilized bottle

and

let it rest

another 40 days in a dark, cool, dry

place before tasting.

847

RAVIOLE BOLOGNESI OR Dl SAN GIUSEPPE

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

JAM RAVIOLI These are also called Raviole di San Giuseppe because of their use on the feast day of St. Joseph,

Va

1

cups all-purpose flour 1

large egg

% cup sugar Va lb. (1 stick) 1

unsalted butter

cup apricot jam, or as needed 1

cup Bolognese mostarda

(see note, page 877), or as needed

Confectioners’ sugar Salt

tarda

recipe

in this

is

a

March

19.

The mos-

sweet kind; you could substitute any

type of fruit preserves of your choice.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Use the flour and egg to make a

dough

butter,

as in the recipe

and

on page

and

adding the sugar,

Cut the dough

ness (see note, page 212).

At the center of each

disks.

10,

with the egg. Roll out to a Vu inch thick-

salt

disk put

1

into 4-inch

teaspoon of jam

teaspoon of mostarda. Fold the disks over and

1

seal

with the tines of a fork. Place on a baking sheet and bake until well

browned. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar

and serve warm.

RAVIOLI DOLCI AL

FORNO LAZIO

BAKED SWEET RAVIOLI For the wine, use Frascati or Castelli Romani.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a baking sheet. Use the Unsalted butter

For the dough:

and baking powder

flour, sugar,

the recipe

on page

place of the eggs. 3

cups all-purpose flour 1

cup sugar

Pinch baking powder /a

rum.

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

cup white wine

1

fruit,

When

spoonfuls of

it

mixture

1

1

3

/a lbs.

Vi

A cup finely diced

2

large egg plus

A cup

2

zest, chocolate,

and

Fold over the

strips to

cover the

Using a pastry wheel cut out half-moon-shaped

fruit

lemon

cup white rum

Confectioners’ sugar

848

lemon

well blended distribute large

seal.

chocolate chips

Za

is

ricotta

candied

1

in

in strips

making the edges match, then pressing them

cups sugar

Grated zest of

it

filling,

egg, separated

1

as in

filling:

Vi\ sp. cinnamon

1

dough

and wine

along the strips of dough, placing them

about 4 inches apart. For the

a

Mix the ricotta, sugar, cinnamon,

egg, egg yolk,

this

make

Roll out a sheet and cut

about 6 inches wide. candied

to

10, using the olive oil

ravioli

and place on the baking

egg white and brush on the

sheet. Beat the

ravioli.

to

remaining

Bake for about 20

minutes or until golden, then dust with confectioners’ sugar. Serve cold.

LOCAL TRADITION

QUARESIM ALI The spice trade has a long and storied history

in

the

Genoa. As early as 1369,

city of

the courts of Ferrara and Mantua held the cakes and pastry from Genoa’s community of spice

vendors

in

high regard and these Lenten cookies are one of the oldest reci-

pes from that group. A combination of both sweet and bitter almonds would

ground

mortar with sugar,

a

in

and lemon

vanilla,

zest. This

first

be

ground mixture would

then be kneaded with egg whites to form a dough, which would be rolled out onto a

greased work surface, traditionally marble. After an hour of resting, the dough would be cut into circle shapes, often using a drinking glass, and the remaining scraps

would be cut

into

smaller squares. After baking,

topped with small finocchetti and some with lemon. The squares were then

RAVIOLI DOLCI CON LA RICOTTA (TACCONI)

LAZIO

made

into

some

of the

round cookies would be

a glaze flavored with chocolate, mint,

sandwich cookies with

a

SWEET RAVIOLI WITH RICOTTA This recipe

is

typical of the Viterbo area.

These are called

tacconi (“heels”) because they are shaped For the dough: 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus

more as needed

2 large eggs, 1

separated

tbsp. unsalted butter 1

Vi

1

or 2 tbsp. sugar

cup milk (more or

Not everyone loves fried food and, of this recipe in

which the

and when

it

boils

in fact,

ravioli

immerse the

them

ted spoon, not letting

ravioli

overlap.

lbs. ricotta

ground cinnamon

2 large eggs, beaten

Grated zest of

A Olive

oil,

1

a variation In

that

with a

skimmer or

slot-

When they are

away as much

dried use the usual pastry wheel to cut

of the

border of each raviolo as possible, since be thick and not overly pleasing; of

will

filling:

J'Tcups sugar, or to taste Mitsp.

is

Cook them for 5 minutes

course, as you do so avoid opening the

1

there

are simply boiled.

less)

the dough there

A

shoe heels;

case, put a large pot with slightly salted water on the stove

dry.

1

like

they are traditionally prepared during the Carnival period.

then strain them and arrange on a clean, dry kitchen cloth to Salt

For the

and

marmalade.

little

lemon

cup rum

for frying

Confectioners’ sugar

ravioli.

Arrange them

on a serving plate and dust with sugar and cinnamon then sprinkle with a mixture of liquors, traditionally

alcherme (see note, page

Use

the flour and

on page

1

0,

egg to make a dough as in the recipe

1

adding

butter, sugar, salt,

just the yolk

and

as

much

needed with the whole egg. then

roll

rum and

786).

of the second egg, the

milk (about V2 cup) as

Let

it

rest for

30 minutes,

out a thin sheet (see page 212) and cut

it

in

849

mix

Make

6 inches wide.

strips

until

the

zest,

Combine the and rum and

Arrange small lumps of

thoroughly blended.

this filling

filling:

cinnamon, eggs, lemon

ricotta, sugar,

along the sheets of dough, spacing them 4 to

4Yi inches apart, then fold over the sheets to cover the

and

filling

Cut the

align the edges.

ravioli in the

shape

of half-moons with a pastry wheel, sealing the edges and

Heat

piercing each ravioli with the tip of a fork.

of olive

pan and

oil in a

fry until golden.

inch

1

Drain on paper

towels and dust with confectioners’ sugar.

RAVIOLONI D PUREA I

D CECI I

CALABRIA

CHICKPEA RAVIOLI These

ravioli, traditionally

place to place For the 1

filling:

cup dried chickpeas, soaked in water overnight and drained

cup vin cotto (see note, page 818) Yi

Pinch ground cinnamon Pinch ground cloves

For the dough: 1

1

Kz

Z4

same

1

large egg yolk

cup extra-virgin plus olive

oil

olive

oil,

for frying

2 tbsp. sugar 'A

cup vermouth

Confectioners’ sugar (optional)

RICCIARELLI

TOSCANA

terms

is

eaten at Christmas, vary from

shape and their

of their

(which

filling

their characteristic of being a fried, stuffed pasta,

considered good luck

in

Calabria.

Cook

the chickpeas in lightly salted water until tender,

drain,

and pass them through a

sieve.

Use

must, cinnamon, and cloves.

Mix

Roll out this

oil,

sugar,

dough

to

form

them over

and

if

and

adding

fry until golden.

it

into

rounds

form half-moons.

seal.

Heat

A

2

almonds

cup all-purpose flour 4 cups sugar 2 large

egg whites

CONTINUED

850

1

inch

Drain on paper towels,

desired, dust with confectioners’ sugar.

ALMOND PASTE COOKIES This recipe

is

typical of Siena.

Industrial manufacturers have their refineries; at 2 cups blanched

egg.

the filling onto the

to

Dampen the edges and press down to oil

0,

a thin sheet (see note,

Spoon

about 2 inches in diameter.

of olive

1

and vermouth with the

page 212), and using a pastry wheel cut

disks of dough, then fold

wine

in the

the flour and whole

egg to make a dough as in the recipe on page the egg yolk, olive

cups all-purpose flour

large egg plus

in

could include ricotta, jam, or chocolate). What remains the

home

we must make do with an old marble mortar and a wooden pestle. Use this to turn the almonds into a paste, adding the flour and about 2 A cups of the sugar. Make 2

a simple syrup 2

by mixing the remaining sugar with about

A cup water and adding

it

to the

almond mixture.

.

Zi

cup

Yi tsp. Zi

Zi

vanilla

sugar

baking powder

cup confectioners’ sugar, or as needed

cup cornstarch, or as needed

Preheat the oven to

Refrigerate for at least 8 hours.

Whip

300°F.

the egg whites

and

vanilla sugar until stiff

peaks form. Fold into the almond mixture, then

stir in

sugar

Mix together the confectioners’ and cornstarch. Add to the almond mixture and

knead

to create a

vide

into small portions,

the baking powder.

it

ciarelli,

dough and

di-

and from these shape the

ric-

dough.

Roll out the

small cylinders as large as a

thumb with

the ends

squeezed to form diamonds; you can also use the special Place on a baking sheet, dust

lozenge-shaped mold.

with confectioners’ sugar, and bake about 20 minutes.

MANTECATO

RISO

SICILIA

RICE PUDDING Put the milk

in a

Bring to a boil 4 cups milk

Heaping

54

rice

cup sugar

heaping cup rice

1

1

Zi

cups toasted almonds,

is

cooked

Remove

at

2

saucepan with the sugar and

low heat,

be completely absorbed)

pan from the heat and

candied squash, and chocolate. serving plate. Cover with

rice.

stirring constantly, until the

(the liquid should

the

FOR persons

8

stir

Mix

in the

well

almonds,

and put on

a

more candied squash and

coarsely chopped

chocolate and serve cold. 1

54

cups chopped candied squash (see note, page 787),

plus Zi

more as needed

cup chocolate chips, plus more as needed

rOssumada or ROSSUMADA

LOMBARDIA

EGG COCKTAIL This

is

an ancient beverage-snack widespread

Lombardia. 4 large egg yolks 54

cup sugar (optional)

White wine or lemon, as needed

Its

name

d’oof or russiimm.

refers to

It

its

northern

in

basic ingredient, egg, russ

depends on the absolute freshness

of

the eggs, a rarity these days. There are even special glasses with pierced covers and small whisks so that the drinker can

whip up the drink as

it

is

consumed. Note that

concerned about salmonella and egg

safety, then

if

you are

you should

avoid this recipe, since the eggs are used raw.

To make 1

54

the popular version,

tablespoon sugar and

cup water and

water and

54

54

54

whip

1

egg yolk with

cup white wine or

cup white wine or

cup lemon

54

cup

and

pale.

3) with

in a blender until frothy

1)

2) with

851

LOCAL TRADITION

ROSE FRITTE This recipe for "fried roses” involves deep-frying pastry typical of first

Oderzo

in

the Veneto. A soft pastry dough

the shape of flowers and

in

made

with

many egg

is

yolks would

be rolled out to a large sheet. The "roses” would be cut out of the dough using

cutters or molds

the shape of clovers and stacked concentrically. Pressing

in

down

in

the center with a stick, each rose would then be fried separately before being drained

and dusted with sugar. Marmalade or cream could be piped or spread between the “petals" of each finished rose.

SALAME DEL RE

UMBRIA

I

ROLLED CHOCOLATE CAKE This recipe

is

11

typical of Citta di Castello

and

FOR PERSONS commonly

is

prepared for baptismal celebrations. Unsalted butter

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a baking sheet and line it

with parchment. Cover a work surface with a clean

For the dough:

kitchen towel. Beat the egg yolks and sugar with a mixer 6 large egg yolks

% cups sugar % cups all-purpose flour

on medium speed

and thickened. Whisk

until pale

in the

1

1

flour

and lemon

juice

1

Zi

Add

the

lemon

baking powder

tsp.

zest until blended.

Pour the dough on the baking sheet

baking powder. Juice and grated zest of

and

and spread

to

Va

inch thick.

Bake

until set,

about 15

minutes, then remove from the oven and invert on the For the ]4

filling:

cup alchermes

(see note, page 786) 1

Zi

cups chopped

bitter chocolate Z*

1

cup milk

recipe pastry

cream

(see page 843)

852

cloth. Peel off the

parchment and brush with alchermes.

Place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Heat the milk just to boiling stir until

and pour the milk over the chocolate, then

smooth. Spread the cake with the chocolate

mixture, then spread with pastry cream. sheet to form a sort of

few minutes before

flat

slicing

Roll

salame shape and

and

serving.

let

up

the

stand a

SALAME

Dl

CIOCCOLATO

LOMBARDIA

CHOCOLATE SALAME Note that

if

you are concerned about egg safety, then you

should avoid this recipe.

% 1

large egg plus

cup sugar

large egg yolk

1

'A lb. (1 stick)

plus

1

tbsp.

In a bowl combine the sugar, egg, and yolk, stirring for 1

Melt the butter and add

5 minutes.

it,

and

chocolate, hazelnuts (or almonds),

then add the

biscuits

and

stir

unsalted butter

Grease a sheet of waxed paper with

gently just to mix. 3

A cup chopped unsweetened chocolate Vi

cup peeled and chopped hazelnuts (or almonds)

almond give

it

oil,

spread the mixture across

Let

the shape of a salame.

erator overnight.

Cut

it

then

it,

roll it

up

to

cool in the refrig-

in slices to serve.

% cup crumbled dried biscuits (zwieback)

Sweet almond

oil

ALMOND-CHOCOLATE SALIERINE SICILIA

TARTLETS Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter the cups of a muffin pan.

Unsalted butter, for the pan

Use

and

the flour

make

lard to

recipe

on page 751, adding the egg

lemon

zest with the lard.

dough

a

as in the

and

yolks, sugar,

Roll out a sheet of the dough,

For the dough:

cut

it

into circles,

and use these

cups

to line the muffin

3 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

more as needed 6 oz. lard 2 large egg yolks 1

cup sugar

Grated zest of

1

lemon

and bake

When

until golden.

baked,

let

cool slightly,

Meanwhile

then remove from the cups and set aside.

almonds and

toast the

finely

chop them. Reduce the

oven temperature to 275°F. Put the almonds

in a sauce-

pan with 3 cups water and bring

As soon

to a boil.

as

the water boils add 4 cups sugar, chocolate chips, cocoa For the

powder, and cinnamon. Cook for about 45 minutes

at

moderate heat,

the

pan

4 cups plus

from the heat and incorporate the beaten egg yolks a

little

Vz Vi

filling:

3 cups blanched almonds 1

tbsp. sugar

cup chocolate chips

cup unsweetened cocoa powder Pinch ground cinnamon '3 large egg yolks, beaten

at a time.

maining still

1

Return the pan tablespoon sugar.

be warm), then

until cold.

Remove

stirring continuously.

fill

Whip

the

to the heat

and add the

Let cool slighdy

dough

(it

cups. Refrigerate

and sugar

the egg whites

peaks form, then top each tardet with

this

re-

should

them

until stiff

meringue, mak-

For the meringue:

ing sure the meringue reaches the

dough

shells.

Bake

6 large egg whites

until the 1

Zi

meringue

is

dry to the touch, about 30 minutes.

cups granulated sugar

853

HONEY ALMOND COOKIES

SAPIENZE

LAZIO

This recipe

is

TO MAKE 30

typical of Gaeta.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking sheet with Olive

oil

olive 1

Zi

cups sugar

1

Zi

cups honey

oil.

heat, 4 cups all-purpose flour,

Zi 1

1

adding

1

spoon

orange

flour.

is

too soft add a few

orange into

best) or in a

1

this

bowl and mix

homogeneous

mixture 1

is

table-

in the sugar

paste. If

candied citron, and almonds.

it is

Add

more tablespoons of flour.

30 pieces and place on the baking

about

!

zest,

When

about 8 cups

over very low

this

pan off the heat and add

syrup, creating a firm and

% cups chopped almonds

CALABRIA

to hold

Pour out the remaining flour on a work

surface (marble

cup candied citron

SCALETTE

enough

tablespoon water.

well blended take the

or as needed

Grated zest of

In a saucepan big

combine the sugar and honey; put

Divide

sheet. +

the this

Bake for

0 minutes.

"STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN” COOKIES These Christmas sweets are named scalette, or “stairs,” be-

cause they are shaped to be symbolic of the “stairway to 4 large eggs, beaten

(Z2 cup) unsalted butter

Za lb.

1

tbsp. sugar

2 Ktsp. baking powder 1

tsp. vanilla extract Za

cup anise seeds

2 cups all-purpose flour,

or as Olive

oil,

much

as needed, sifted

for greasing

and

heaven.”

In a bowl mix the eggs, butter, sugar, baking powder, anise, then

firm dough. until

Knead

the

smooth, then divide

form cylinders about the

Wrap

add the

and smooth,

a time until blended

sifted flour a

at

little

to obtain a soft but

dough on

the

work surface

in small portions to roll out to size

of breadsticks but thicker.

these around a pencil or

wooden spoon handle

frying

(greasing Zi

and

vanilla, salt,

cup honey spirals.

it

with olive

oil

from time

Carefully remove

to time) to

them from

form long

the pencil

and

set

Salt

them out on and

a floured cloth.

fry until golden.

honey over low heat

Heat 2 inches of olive

oil

Drain on paper towels. Heat the

just until

melted and brush on the

golden cookies. Let stand until dry, about 20 minutes.

854

LOCAL TRADITION

SAVOR Savor is a traditional cooked-fruit compote made from unfermented grape must,

ally,

savor

typi-

Emilia-Romagna, with roots that reach back to ancient times. Tradition-

cal of Forli in

made

is

just after the grape harvest in the early

fall.

The concentrated

grape must from sweet, ripe red- or white-wine grapes would be very carefully cooked

down

in

copper pot for about four hours,

a

were added

at

which point the additional ingredients

for continued slow cooking.

The more careful the choice of ingredients, the richer and more flavorful the resulting

compote would

These ingredients symbolized a synthesis of the

be.

autumn seasons and

traditionally included nuts gathered in late

walnuts, hazelnuts, pine nuts, and almonds

summer

fruit,

cots, raisins,

figs;

fresh

watermelon

fruit,

rind;

such as

summer

more

authentic, original recipes.

such as apple

peaches; candied

All

was added

more hours

in

including

now

must

rarely in

to obtain a dense, concen-

of cooking. Constant stirring with a long

The finished savor was cooled overnight and hermetically sealed to be used

fruit,

fare,

added halfway through

spoon ensured that the savor wouldn’t burn or stick to the bottom

enware jars,

fine); lateslices, apri-

only occasionally, and not

of these ingredients,

cooking, were kept under the surface of the grape trated liquid after six

fruit,

and even some traditional peasant

seen, such as diced carrots or squash. Sugar

the

peeled and chopped

such as apples and quinces; sun-dried

and

citrus peel or

(all

summer and

summer, such as

wooden

of the cauldron. in

glass or earth-

dessert recipes or as a sweet accompaniment on the table

through the cold months.

SCALITU

LOMBARDIA

I

BUTTER CAKE Mix

the flour, sugar, baking powder,

in a bowl. l/z cups all-purpose flour 2 cups sugar 1

2 /4tsp. baking

powder

Mix

in the butter

and

let rest

FOR PERSONS

and a pinch of salt

and milk and knead

smooth dough forms. Cover with for about 30 minutes.

it.

Bake for about 45 minutes or

until a

a clean kitchen towel

Preheat the oven to

400°F. Grease a 9-inch cake pan and place the

10 oz. (2Kz sticks) unsalted butter,

softened

10

until golden.

dough

in

Let cool

completely. 1

tsp. milk

Salt

855

SCARCELLA

Dl

PASQUA

SWEET EASTER BREAD

PUGLIA

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking sheet with olive

% cup extra-virgin olive

oil

3 cups all-purpose flour,

or as needed

oil.

Mix

the flour, yeast, sugar, and

use them and

1

1

cup sugar

Grated zest of

1

lemon

3 large eggs

A cup whole

2

milk,

warmed

olive oil

rest in a bowl,

towel, for about

1

persons

lemon

egg to make a dough as

on page 751, adding the Let the dough

t /2 tsp. active dry yeast

6

zest

and

in the recipe

and milk with the

egg.

covered with a kitchen

hour, until almost doubled in volume.

Divide the dough in three parts and

roll into cylinders.

Braid the three cylinders, then form the cake into a ring or a figure eight.

Place on the baking sheet; gently press

the remaining 2 eggs (in their shells) into the dough. For the glaze: 1

large egg white

Zi tsp. 1

lemon juice

cups confectioners’ sugar

'A

Candy-coated almonds, crushed

Bake

for

1

hour or

Remove from the the egg white

and lemon

tioners’ sugar a

able glaze.

until

cooked through and golden.

sheet and

little

Spread

at a it

let it cool.

juice,

Whisk together

then whisk in the confec-

time to

make a thick but spread-

over the cake evenly but without

covering the two eggs, and before the glaze sets dust with candy-coated almonds. Let stand until

SCARPACCIA DOLCE VI AREGGIN A

TOSCANA

ZUCCHINI CAKE Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a baking pan. the ingredients except the olive

Unsalted butter 1

% cups all-purpose flour 2 cups whole milk 1

1

lb.

zucchini,

'A

cups sugar

trimmed and shredded

Grated zest of 1

Zi tsp. 1

1

856

1

lemon

tsp. vanilla extract

Zi tsp.

Marsala

baking powder

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

it

set.

oil until

the batter into the pan, drizzle with olive for

1

hour, or until the bread springs back

pressed.

Mix

all

blended. Pour oil,

and bake

when

lightly

SCARPONI

CHRISTMAS SPICE COOKIES

NATALE

Dl

ABRUZZO

This recipe

is

typical of

Sulmona.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Sprinkle a baking sheet with

6% cups

all-purpose flour

In another pot heat the wine must, stirring constantly to

cups sugar

34

1

cups chocolate chips

34

3 cups wine must

tbsp. baking

tbsp.

1

34

tsp.

Sambuca, and

34

olive

zests,

flour,

baking powder,

bowl or on a work surface and form

the

dough

in

oil.

Stir in the raisins, citron,

and walnuts.

form a thick dough.

rum

Sambuca

add

orange

this together to

Arrange tablespoon-size lumps of

olive oil

them

so that they will not touch

Bake

for

% cup chopped candied citron

Blend

even rows across the baking sheet, spacing

cups raisins

cup extra-virgin 1

in a

and lemon

3 large eggs

1

Whisk together the

and cinnamon

the wine must, then the melted chocolate mixture, rum,

powder

cinnamon

tsp.

1

avoid lumps.

into a well. Beat the eggs in the center, then slowly

(see note, page 818) 1

saucepan

in a

with the sugar and chocolate chips, stirring until smooth.

chocolate

1

Melt the unsweetened chocolate

flour.

unsweetened

8 oz. (8 squares)

20 to 25 minutes,

the cookies are

when

they puff up.

until the surface

is

dry and

set.

Grated zest of 2 oranges Grated zest of 2 lemons 434

lbs.

coarsely chopped

toasted walnut halves

I

SCAVUNISCU

CALABRIA

I

SEMOLINA BREAD WITH WINE MUST AND ALMONDS This dish, flour mixed with wine must,

sweet. 3 cups semolina flour,

plus

more as needed 1

% cup coarsely chopped almonds 1

orange, cut

in

thin strips

Lard Salt

in

little

is

an ancient peasant

name comes from schiavonesco, meaning

color.”

Combine

cup wine must

(see note, page 818)

Peel of

“dark

Its Italian

the semolina flour with the wine

warm

water.

orange peel.

Work

Add

to this the salt,

must and

a

almonds, and

the resulting mixture to blend well

and form

into the shape of a loaf. Let the loaf rest for

hour.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking

1

sheet with lard and place the loaf

on

it.

Bake

until

the touch and cooked through, about 35 minutes.

dry to

SCHIACCIA

CON

1

FICHI SECCHI

TOSCANA

FLATBREAD WITH DRIED FIGS This recipe

is

8

typical of the Chianti area.

Dissolve half the yeast in 2 tablespoons 2)4 tsp. active dry yeast

3)4 cups all-purpose flour tsp.

1

the

tsp. extra-virgin olive oil

work surface combine

mixture, sugar, and olive

sugar to

1

FOR persons

warm

On

water.

half the flour with the yeast

oil,

form a smooth dough.

adding

Shape

14

cup water. Knead

this into a loaf

and

set

warm place to rise for about 2 hours, covered by a cloth. Chop the figs in small pieces and soak them in warm water to soften. Pour the remaining flour out aside in a

16 dried figs Salt

on the work surface and add the remaining yeast and cup warm water. Knead together with the dried form

a pinch of salt to

loaf prepared earlier, to rest for

hour.

1

smooth dough.

a soft

and knead them

14

figs

and

Add

the

together. Set aside

Grease a baking sheet with

then press the dough evenly into the pan.

olive oil,

Using the

tip

of a knife score squares into the surface then cover with

and

a cloth

to 400°F.

let rest

Bake

again for

for about

1

Preheat the oven

hour.

40 minutes or

until

golden and

cooked through.

SCHI ACCIATA

VENETO

SWEET FLATBREAD Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Knead

together the flour and

lard (or butter), then blend in the eggs, sugar, 3 J4 cups all-purpose flour

4

oz.

lard (or

1

stick butter)

3 large eggs

A cup

2

sugar Salt

Knead

until

smooth.

into a baking sheet to

form

a flat focaccia.

pinch of

salt.

Press the

Dl

ZIBIBBO

TOSCANA

Using the

1

Zi tsp. active

dissolved

in

1

cup

dry yeast,

warm water CONTINUED

incisions in the surface to

form double

crosses.

Brush with cold water and bake

until the sur-

face

is

a pretty golden color, about

40 minutes.

AND RAISINS This recipe

is

e

in a

bowl and knead with the yeast mixture;

shape into a loaf and

let it rise,

covered by a cloth, in a

warm place for about 2 hours. mary

F0R persons

typical of Florence.

Coarsely chop the rose-

needles. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a bak-

ing sheet with

858

tip

make

Put the flour 3 Zz cups all-purpose flour

a

of a knife,

FLATBREAD WITH ROSEMARY SCHIACCIATA

and

dough

1

tablespoon olive

oil.

Heat the remaining

Needles from !4

sprig rosemary

1

cup extra-virgin

olive oil in a

2oz. lard 1

large egg, beaten 3

A

A cups

2 1

cup sugat;

soaked

raisins,

in

saucepan and cook the rosemary needles

just until fragrant,

olive oil

water

When this

and

oil)

half.

Also blend in the

sheet

Knead

(it

dough, setting aside the other

until

lard, egg, Vz

%

with the remaining olive

at

to

oil

room

%

into the baking

inch thick) then brush

mixture and sprinkle with

Bake

the remaining sugar.

Serve

cup of the sugar, and

smooth then press

should be about

until golden.

let

has cooled add half of it (both rosemary

to the leavened

raisins.

and drained

then remove from the heat and

cool.

for about

30 minutes or

temperature.

LOCAL TRADITION

SCARSELLA In

various parts of

Italy,

though especially

shaped sweet pastries from the

in Lazio,

would be given to children during Easter Monday pizzas or various

it

leftover scraps of

was the

tradition to

make small

dough from Easter pizzas

—these

picnics, while the adults enjoyed the

salame themselves, or just relaxed. General traditions abounded,

such as decorating the pastries with sugar or peppercorns, and usually a shelled hard-boiled egg formed the center of each, surrounded by the shaped strips of dough.

Each area usually had a characteristic shape or form. scarsella were most often baked in

Maremma,

too,

the shape of

in

they took the form of a pot-bellied

In

Viterbo, for instance, the

money bags or purses with handles; man. Animal shapes were common,

and included mice and doves.

|

SCHIACCIUNTA

TOSCANA

I

SWEET FLATBREAD This recipe

is

typical of Elba.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Grease a baking sheet with 10 1

oz. lard

% cups flour, plus more as needed 3 large eggs, beaten 1

plus 1

% cups sugar,

more

34 tsp.

for dusting

baking powder

Grated zest of

1

lemon

lard

and dust with

flour. Stir together the

eggs and sugar

the lard, baking powder, and

until blended,

then

lemon

Slowly add the flour, constantly stirring

zest.

until the

dough

mixture has a soft consistency.

into the

for about

stir in

pan

Press the

to a height of about Vz inch.

30 minutes or

until golden.

Bake

Remove from

the

oven and dust with sugar.

859

SCIUMETTE

LIGURIA

FLOATING ISLANDS You can decorate the serving plate with cookies of your choosing.

6 large eggs, separated

Whip

4tbsp. unsalted butter,

add the

the 6 egg whites until

add the

stiff,

Heat 7% cups milk

vanilla.

in a

melted and cooled

when 1

teaspooon

white mixture slowly and carefully so they form small

lumps Zi

bubbles around the edges, spoon in the egg

it

vanilla extract

cups whole milk

8

butter, then

wide pan and

Turn

that quickly harden.

off the heat

and

lift

tbsp. all-purpose flour

the egg white “islands” out of the

2

/i

and

set

cup pistachios

Zi

pan with

cup sugar

Ground cinnamon

them out

Whisk

to drain.

a

the flour

skimmer

and sugar

Beat the 6 remaining yolks until thick

into the milk.

by now

and pale and whisk them

into the milk (which

should be almost cold)

Grind the pistachios and

them sieve

.

and add

wooden spoon,

Put the pan back

to the milk mixture.

it

over heat and heat without letting until

it

the back of the spoon. in

boil

remaining milk; pass the result through a

in the

it

boil, stirring

with a

has thickened slightly and coats

Arrange the egg white “islands”

soup plates or a large serving bowl and pour the

heated milk mixture around them

them

—without submerging —and dust

seem

(the egg whites should

to float)

with cinnamon. Serve immediately.

SCROCCAFUSI

MARCHE

ANISETTE FRITTERS Combine

all

the batter ingredients and

work them

Form

gether thoroughly to create a light dough. For the batter: 5/2 cups all-purpose flour 5 large eggs

dough

first

or

more

tbsp. extra-virgin olive 1

oil

tbsp. anisette

Grated zest of

1

lemon

For frying:

30 minutes.

them, in the oven or

Vi cup sugar 1

into balls the size of walnuts

rest for

and

set

them

tothis

aside to

There are two methods of cooking fried,

but in both cases they must

be immersed in boiling water and removed as soon

as they float (set

them out on

a cloth to dry)

.

To bake

them, preheat the oven to 325°F and grease a baking sheet.

Arrange on the baking sheet and bake for about

30 minutes,

until

golden and

crisp.

As

for frying, heat

2 inches of fat (lard was once used, but today preference Extra-virgin olive

oil

goes to olive For serving: Vanilla

Alchermes (see

860

note,

sugar

page 786)

still

oil)

over moderate heat until golden. While

hot they can be sprinkled with vanilla sugar and

alchermes.

SWEET CHEESE PASTRIES

SEADAS

SARDEGNA

Put the grated cheese

lemon

A cups

1

grated fiore sardo cheese

Grated zest of

Grated zest of

1

the recipe

lemon

Vi

the

the flour

on page

1

0,

and

using

to obtain a soft

make

lard to

% cup warm

a

dough

dough

is

very elastic

roll

ter.

tbsp. lard

On half of these

as in

water in place

When

out a thin sheet (see note,

page 212) and cut into disks about 414 inches

cups all-purpose flour 1

add the orange and

of the eggs and gradually blending in the lard.

3 tbsp. fife ferru

(Sardinian grappa) 1

Use

dough.

orange

1

in a bowl,

and the grappa, and knead

zests

diame-

in

put a tablespoon of the cheese mix-

ture; cover with another disk, pressing well to eliminate Extra-virgin olive 1

A cups

oil,

for frying

any

ranzigo (chestnut honey)

air.

Heat

Finish the edges with a pastry wheel.

inch of olive

Confectioners’ sugar

on paper

oil in

towels.

until melted.

a wide

pan and

Meanwhile, heat the honey

Spoon honey over the

pastries

1

Drain

fry until golden.

pan

in a

and sprinkle

with confectioners’ sugar.

SEMIFREDDO

PEACH AND AMARETTI SEMIFREDDO

PESCHE

Dl

ED AMARETTI

PIEMONTE

Line a loaf pan with plastic wrap. Peel and pit the peaches,

chop them, and put them 2

lbs. ripe

yellow peaches

and

% cup chopped amaretti A cup

2

1

1

the result into a bowl

sugar

the egg white.

cup heavy cream, whipped

large egg white, beaten until

hours.

stiff

SFOGLI ATELLE FROLLE

CAMPANIA

1

A

cups all-purpose flour Vi

cup sugar

I

fold in the

Pour

whipped cream and

Pour into the loaf pan and freeze

Turn out onto

a serving plate,

remove the

for

4

plastic

FOR 12 SFOGLIATELLE

FILLED COOKIES This recipe

is

typical of Naples.

a well with half the flour in a

surface; at the center

water, lard, a time

3 oz. lard 1

and

wrap, and serve immediately.

Form For the dough:

in a blender with the amaretti

sugar. Puree until smooth, about 2 minutes.

the it

and the remaining

all

will

a

work

flour, stirring in a little at

the flour has been absorbed, knead, working

dough but doing

CONTINUED

bowl or on

in the sugar, 3 tablespoons

and working small portions of the dough by hand.

When

large egg yolk, for brushing

mix

so without pulling

on

become homogeneous and smooth. Let

30 minutes.

it,

so that

it

rest for

Preheat the oven to 275°F. Prepare the

ing by mixing the ingredients given.

fill-

Divide the dough

861

0

For the 1

cup

1

1

!4

ricotta

cups sugar

large egg, beaten

1

Zi

filling:

cup semolina flour

cup chopped candied citron and orange peel J4tsp. vanilla extract 2

drops cinnamon

into 12 equal portions

%

and shape these

Divide the

inch thick.

filling in 1

into ovals about

2 portions and put

each portion on one of the ovals; fold the dough over the

filling,

press well to seal the edges, then using a glass

(4 to 4 Yz inches in diameter) or, better, a pastry wheel,

cut out the

them

make them round.

sfogliatelle to

to a baking sheet,

Transfer

brush them with egg yolk, and

bake in the top of the oven, checking from time to time

oil

to

make

certain they

do not burn on the bottom. After

Salt

about oven,

1

5 minutes they will be golden;

remove from the

and dust with confectioners’

let cool,

sugar.

Confectioners' sugar

SFOGLIATINE Dl

VILLAFRANCA

VENETO

PUFF PASTRIES This recipe

is

typical of Villafranca Veronese.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Melt 6 tablespoons of the Zi lb. (1

cup) plus 2 tbsp.

butter,

mix in the

flour,

and add as much water as needed

unsalted butter, softened

to 1

Zi

make

a soft

dough (about

3 tablespoons)

.

Knead

the

cups all-purpose flour

dough to make

it

smooth and homogeneous. Shape

it

into

2 large egg yolks, beaten

a ball 1

cup sugar

and

minutes.

%

inch.

let it rest in a

Roll out the

cool place under a cloth for

dough

Divide the remaining butter in 6 equal por-

tions (3 tablespoons each) ter

on the sheet of dough,

over the dough and a sheet about

%

roll it

.

Spread a portion of the butminutes, then fold

let it rest 5

out with the rolling pin to form

inch thick.

Spread another portion of

butter across the sheet of dough, fold roll it out.

over,

Then

in a very thin sheet (about V% inch)

doughnut shapes, using ring

it

and

and again

Repeat this operation four more times, using

the remaining portions of butter.

dough

1

to the thickness of about

a small

one

to

a

round mold

make

to

roll

out the

and cut

make

it

in

the outer

the hole in the middle.

Arrange these rings on a baking sheet and brush with the 2 egg yolks.

Sprinkle with sugar and bake until

puffed up and golden.

862

SFRAPPOLE

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

FRIED DOUGH KNOTS This sweet

is

eaten during the Carnival season

in

Bologna.

In

other places they are called galani, cenci, fiocchi, nastrini di

A cups

2 1

all-purpose flour 2 large eggs Zi

Grated zest of

1

cup sugar Vi

lemons

4 tbsp. 04 cup) unsalted butter

rum

2tbsp.

Olive

(or to taste) oil,

for frying Salt

Confectioners’ sugar

monache,

donzellini,

Use

the flour

and eggs

and a pinch of 30 minutes.

3 cups rye flour,

as in the recipe

rum,

zest, butter,

Roll out the

dough

to

form

a sheet about

them

and

1

V2

Heat 2 inches of olive

saucepan and

in a

Drain on paper towels and

until golden.

warm, dusted with

this

Tie the

inches wide.

confectioners’ sugar.

FRUIT RAVIOLI Use

the flour and egg yolk to

on page

and 1

make

dough

a

a pinch of salt with the egg yolk. Let

hour.

as in the

adding the butter, cream, milk,

10,

Roll out the

dough

page 212).

Prepare the

to

form

rest for

it

about

a very thin sheet

more as needed (see note,

filling

by combining

large egg yolk

1

the currants, apples, 14 lb. (/2

dough

a

lemon

lux-

1294.

with the eggs. Let the dough rest

into strips 6 inches long

recipe

plus

sugar,

in

Yu of an inch thick; using a toothed pastry wheel cut

serve

For the dough:

salt

make

to

on page 751, adding the

fry

ALTO ADIGE

on. Food writer Waverley Root

urious” that they were banned by a sumptuary law

strips into knots.

SGONFIOTTI ALLA FRUTTA

and so

reports that sfrappole were considered so “inexcusably

and breadcrumbs

until blended.

cup) unsalted butter,

softened 2 tbsp. heavy 2 tbsp. milk (as

much

cream

as needed) Salt

Cut out

a small portion of the

in the

middle of

ravioli.

Proceed

this,

in this

have been used up. For the 1

1

filling:

cup red currants cup grated apples

2 tbsp.

breadcrumbs

Larxl (or olive oil), for frying

Confectioners’ sugar

dough

about 2 to 3 inches in diameter, put a fold

way

until all the

Heat

when it is hot fry the ravioli towels.

1

make

a disk

of the

filling

over to form a large

and

it

to

little

dough and

filling

inch of lard (or olive

until golden.

oil);

Drain on paper

Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve

hot.

SMINUZZATA IMPERIALE

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

1

GRIDDLE CAKES

FOR persons

6

Serve these with black currant jam or

warm raspberry

sauce. 1

'A

cups all-purpose flour 4 large eggs tbsp. sugar

1

Grated zest of

A cup

1

lemon

milk (or as needed) Extra-virgin olive

oil

Combine of

the flour, eggs, sugar,

that

is

lemon

zest,

and

a pinch

bowl and add enough milk to obtain a batter

salt in a

not too thick.

Stir

Heat

well to blend.

it

1

% cup

table-

spoon

olive oil in a skillet

and pour

batter

and cook

Repeat with the remaining bat-

ter

and

olive

until set.

oil.

in

about

of the

Serve warm.

Salt

SORBETTO

LIMONE

Dl

CAMPANIA

LEMON SORBET Serve the sorbet

champagne

in

FOR persons

8

flutes for an elegant pres-

entation. 1

1

Zi

lb.

lemons

cups sugar

3 large egg whites,

beaten

Remove

from

the zest

Squeeze the lemons and

lemons and

3 of the

by mixing the sugar and lemon

set aside.

Make a syrup

strain their juice.

cups water

zest with 3

in

until stiff (optional)

simmer

a saucepan. Bring to a boil, then

Remove from

utes.

When Pour it

the heat

this cools strain

Put

into a loaf pan.

to stir

crystals.

it

from time

When

and

then

it,

let

for 5 to 6

min-

cool completely.

stir in

the

lemon

this in the freezer,

juice.

removing

to time to avoid the formation of ice

begins to solidify you can fold in the

it

beaten egg whites to make

it

more

frothy.

Freeze until

nearly solid, about 4 hours.

SPONGATA

Dl

BRESCELLO

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

FRUITCAKE This

is

an ancient sweet, dating back to Roman times and

even mentioned For the 1

1

Zi

Mj

filling:

cups honey

cups chopped walnuts

% cup toasted and chopped almonds 3

A cup

1

Zi

pine nuts

In

2

in

Petronius’s famous “Trimalchio’s Feast.”

the area of Reggio

Gallo-Roman

its

birthplace

city in Emilia.

is

Brescello, the oldest

References to spongata can be

found

in local

records from the fifteenth and sixteenth cen-

turies

when

was

it

variously prepared for illustrious guests

or banned, during periods of famine, because

ered too luxurious. Elsewhere

% cup chopped citron

mastime, but

cups chopped biscuits

year, looked

at Brescello

upon as

it

it

is

usually

it

was consid-

made

at Christ-

can be found throughout the

a local specialty.

(zwieback)

CONTINUED

Heat the honey with bring to a boil and

864

Zt.

cup water

let it boil for

in a large saucepan;

2 minutes.

Add the other

1

tsp.

ground cinnamon

ground cloves

Zi tsp.

Zi tsp. gratefd

A cups

2 1

nutmeg

apricot jam

filling

and

ingredients

and baking powder

to

baking powder

34 tsp.

Vi

lb.

(2 sticks) plus 2 tbsp.

unsalted butter 1

Z2 cups honey

a

dough

Mix

the flour

as in the recipe

on

dough

Roll out the

sheets about

%

one

baking pan and spread the

to line a

to

form two

inch thick, piercing them with a fork. Use

Cover with the other

Bake

sheet.

filling

for about

across

it.

30 minutes.

Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar before serving.

(or sugar)

large egg yolk

1

Z2 cup

make

page 751, using the butter, honey, egg yolk, and wine in place of the eggs.

For the dough: 4/2 cups pastry flour

refrigerate for 15 days, stirring

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF.

every day.

white wine, or as needed,

such as Trebbiano or Albana Confectioners’ sugar

SPUMINI

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

BAKED MERINGUES Preheat the oven to 325°F. Butter a baking sheet. Heat the egg whites

Butter, for the baking sheet

4 large egg whites

and sugar

dissolved, then beat

in a

saucepan

until the sugar

them together with

soon as the mixture becomes firm,

after

is

As

a whisk.

about 10 min-

2 1

/3cups sugar

utes, transfer

it

to a pastry

lumps of the mixture

1

STACCADENTI

BASILICATA

Bake

until the

hour

if

well spaced

on the baking

sheet.

spumini are thoroughly dried, as long as

necessary.

ALMOND It’s

bag and pipe out walnut-size

BISCOTTI

true, the Italian

name means

3

“tooth-pullers.”

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a square cake pan. Olive 1

Zi

oil,

1

1

for the

pan

cups all-purpose flour !4

cups sugar

Z2 cups whole blanched almonds 4 large eggs, beaten

Mix

the flour, sugar, whole almonds, and eggs until

blended.

of a knife.

Pour

into the pan, leveling

Bake

until golden.

oven and break up the mixture

it

Remove

off with the back

the

pan from the

to the size of cookies, then

return to the oven to complete the baking, until crisp.

865

STRACCAGANASSE LAZIO

HONEY SQUARES This recipe

is

typical of the Viterbo area.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking sheet with Olive oil

olive 'A

1

cups honey

and

4 cups all-purpose flour, or as needed

as

oil.

In a pan, melt the honey with

stir in

needed

2 tablespoons olive

!4

dough

to obtain a

bread dough.

Roll out this

that

% cup warm water much flour

Stir in as

oil.

is

softer than

dough to form

normal about

a sheet

inch thick. Using a floured knife or a pastry wheel cut

this into strips

about 2 inches wide then cut these cross-

wise to form squares.

Arrange these on the baking

sheet and bake until they are slightly blond and firm.

STRUCCHI FRITTI

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

FRIED SMALL DUMPLINGS This recipe lar recipe

For the dough: 3 large eggs, beaten 'A

1

cups sugar

3 cups all-purpose flour,

plus

A

lb. (1

more as needed

dough and

ally

Zi tsp.

active dry yeast 1

lemon

2tbsp. grappa Salt

For the

filling:

Z3 cup sugar 4tbsp. 04 cup) unsalted butter 1

tbsp. grappa

Pinch grated nutmeg 1

% cups ground walnuts Zi

Zi

cup raisins

cup chopped pine nuts Zi

cup breadcrumbs

For frying and serving: Lard (or peanut

oil)

for frying

Superfine sugar

866

is

add the

a pinch of

made

is

A simi-

with potatoes

in

the

boiled not fried.

flour, butter, yeast,

Knead

salt.

neous dough.

stick) unsalted butter

Grated zest of

typical of the Natisone-Stregna valleys.

Beat the eggs and sugar until pale and thick, then gradu-

1 1

is

from the same area

inch.

Cut

Combine and put

it

lemon

to obtain a

Roll out the

zest,

grappa, and

smooth and homoge-

dough

to the thickness of

into disks (3 to 4 inches in diameter).

the indicated ingredients to

a small

lump of it

make

the filling

to the side of each disk. Fold

the disks in half to cover. Using the tines of a fork push

down

the edges to seal.

prefer to use peanut

oil)

Heat

and

1

inch of lard (you

may

fry until they are golden

brown. Drain on paper towels. Arrange, hot or

at

room

temperature, on a serving plate and sprinkle with superfine sugar.

STRUDEL

CILIEGE

Dl

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

CHERRY STRUDEL Do not make this dish result

For the

ripe cherries, pitted

lb.

1

filling:

1

cup sugar

Juice and grated zest of 5 tbsp. QA

1

cup plus

1

h cup

cups all-purpose flour ]4

season since the liquid in unripe

lemon

and

juice,

the cherries with

Heat the butter

zest.

toast the bread until golden, then

and sugar and use them

on page

Vie

a

Roll out the

with that side,

a baking sheet

Mix

dough

in a

add both

and bake

roll

as in the recipe

for

dough filling

up

to

to

the flour

and 6 tablespoons water

and spread the

inch)

side. Starting

on

make

to

10, using the oil

place of the eggs.

(about For the dough:

1

Combine

Preheat the oven to 350°F. the sugar,

the mixture along with the cinnamon.

breadcrumbs

FOR PERSONS

cherries would ruin the dough.

pan and

Pinch ground cinnamon

Zi

in

tbsp.)

or crumbled biscuits

1

cherries are not

would not have the right flavor and the

lemon

unsalted butter 2

if

6

in

to a thin sheet

along one long

form

a log. Place

40 minutes.

cups sugar

2 tbsp. sunflower-seed

oil

(or 3 tbsp. butter) Salt

STRUDEL

Dl

MELE

ALTO ADIGE

APPLE STRUDEL Use

the flour to prepare a pasta

on page For the dough:

A cups

2 1

all-purpose flour

2 or 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

oil

Salt

more

for brushing the outside of the strudels

4^2

cup breadcrumbs

lbs.

apples, peeled,

cored, and cut 'A

in

cup pine nuts sugar

3 tbsp. 1

level tsp.

Vi

dough

as in the recipe

cup water

in place of the

and

oil,

set aside to rest,

covered

At the end of that

it

with parchment. Roll out one of the balls to form

a sheet as thin as possible, almost transparent.

Lay

out on a cloth and

a square

shape.

rum

cinnamon

At

this

rollit

out farther, giving

it

this

point heat the butter in a pan and saute

the breadcrumbs.

Spread one third of the mixture

across two-thirds ofthe square of dough, leaving a strip

thin slices

A cup

and

time preheat the oven to 425°F. Butter a baking sheet or

which should be greased with

cups raisins

2

oil

grease with olive

balls,

in this /3

using the

with a cloth, for about 30 minutes.

free, 1

2

0,

filling:

3 tbsp. unsalted butter, plus

Zi

1

TO MAKE STRUDELS

Divide the dough in three parts, shape them into

eggs.

line

For the

3

way with

olive

the other two balls of

maining breadcrumbs.

Mix

oil.

Proceed

dough and

re-

the apple slices, raisins,

pine nuts, sugar, rum, cinnamon, and cloves. (Measure

out the cinnamon with care since

whelm

the other flavors.)

it

should not over-

Sprinkle out this

filling

Pinch ground cloves

across the part of the

dough covered with breadcrumbs.

Confectioners’ sugar

867

Then,

an edge of the cloth from the side of the

lifting

filling, roll

up

the strudel

on

The

itself.

area greased with

olive oil will serve as the final, closing layer.

dough on

extra

the ends that

is

Cut away any

not spread with

filling.

Put the three strudels on the baking sheet, leaving space

between them. Melt the remaining butter and brush on the strudels. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until they are

Before

golden.

serving

sprinkle

with

confectioners’

sugar.

FRIED PASTRIES

STRUFFOLI

This recipe

CAMPANIA

Use For the dough:

Vz

on page 751, adding the

let it rest,

work surface

them

Salt oil,

and

ball,

cup sugar

3 oz. (6 tbsp.) unsalted butter

Olive

typical of Naples.

is

Knead

butter with the eggs.

3 large eggs plus 3 large egg yolks

Cut

for frying

FOR persons

the flour and whole eggs to prepare a pasta

as in the recipe

3/3 cups all-purpose flour

6

to

covered, for 2 hours.

pull off small bits of the

somewhat

these in lengths

Heat

the dough,

form cylinders about the

1

inch of olive

dough

until golden.

dough

yolks, sugar,

form

it

On

and

into a

a floured

dough and

size of a piece

roll

of chalk.

larger than chickpeas.

over moderate heat and fry the

oil

Drain on paper towels.

Put the

For the finishing:

honey and sugar 1

Zi

in a

saucepan with

54

cup water and

cups honey

heat until

it

becomes

a brownish-gold syrup.

Turn

off

Vz cup sugar

the heat (but leave the

% cup candy sprinkles

the

struffoli, stirring

pan on the burner) and pour

well to coat them. Transfer

them

in

to a

Candied citron peel

serving plate and by

them

a wooden spoon work Top with sprinkles and

hand or with

Candied orange slices

into the shape of a

dome.

decorate with thin slices of citron peel and candied

orange

SUSAMIELLI

CAMPANIA

1

slices.

SPICED

HONEY TWISTS

This recipe

typical of Naples.

is

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Grease a baking sheet with Unsalted butter 1

Vz

1

J4

Heat the honey and the sugar

until melted.

Form

the flour into a well in a bowl or

on the work surface and

cups sugar

add the honey mixture.

Add

the cinnamon, nutmeg,

CONTINUED

868

butter.

cups honey

and cloves and knead well.

Shape

this into sticks

about

4 inches long, twist these into S shapes, and lay out on

3/3 cups all-purpose flour Pinch ground cinnamon

Bake

the baking sheet.

for

30 minutes or

until golden.

Pinch grated nutmeg Pinch ground cloves

JAM-FILLED SUSUMELLI

ABRUZZO

1

HORSESHOE COOKIES Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking sheet with olive

14

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

cup white wine, such as Trebbiano 14

1

tbsp. sugar

2 cups all-purpose flour,

plus 1

34

more as needed

cups grape jam, or as needed Confectioners' sugar

to

oil.

make

Mix a

the olive

dough

wine mixture

wine, and sugar.

oil,

and cut

Spoon

by 214 inches).

1

the flour

using the

0,

into rectangles

a line of jam

center of each square and then fold ravioli. Twist

Use

Roll this out into

in place of the eggs.

a thin sheet (see note, page 212) (6 inches

on page

as in the recipe

it

over

down

like a

the

long

these into horseshoe shapes and arrange on

Bake

the baking sheet.

for

30 minutes or

until golden.

Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar as soon as they are

taken from the oven.

TARALLI

GLAZED

SICILIA

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease a baking sheet with

Combine

lard.

For the dough: 4 oz. lard

4/2 cups pastry flour

% cup sugar 2 tbsp. baking

powder

4 tbsp. anise seeds 10 large egg yolks 2 tbsp. milk, or as needed

For the glaze: 3 large

COOKIES

the flour, sugar, lard, baking powder,

egg yolks, and a

about

1

to

1 14

Shape

inches thick and cut

2 to 214 inches.

Immerse these

in lightly salted boiling water,

they

float.

make

milk to

little

and smooth dough.

somewhat

a

this into cylinders

them

into lengths of

cookies, a few at a time,

removing them

as

soon as

Drain and shape into S shapes, then arrange

them on the baking

let

Meanwhile prepare the fectioners’ sugar,

Bake for about

sheet.

paying attention not to

them

glaze.

and lemon

take

Mix

a half hour,

on too much

color.

the egg whites, con-

juice to

make

a thick but

but not dry

spreadable glaze. Brush this on the cookies as soon as

cup confectioners’ sugar,

they are baked, then return them to the oven to dry with

beaten 1

egg whites,

anise, soft

S

stiff

or as needed 1

tsp.

the heat turned off but

still

warm.

lemon juice

869

TARALLI

D

1

SORIANO

CALABRIA

BRAIDED COOKIES Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Grease a baking sheet with olive

Extra-virgin olive 1

lb.

bread dough (see page

oil

13)

2 large eggs

2tbsp. lard

% cup honey

TARALLUCCI ALLA CHIETINA

ABRUZZO % cups all-purpose flour 1

1

cup sugar

cup extra-virgin

olive oil

Dry red wine Salt

Combine

until

dough with

the

few seconds, a few

for a

water until they

and bake

Arrange them on the baking sheet

float.

until golden.

Shape the

flour into a well in a

and put

bowl or on the work sur-

middle the sugar,

in the

olive oil,

elastic

cloth,

and

let it rest

30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to

350°F. Grease a baking sheet with olive surface. Divide the

work

dough

in pieces

make

1

is

5 large

egg whites

2/2 cups sugar

2tsp. vanilla extract

Grated zest of

Zi

2

ring with a shiny.

many wafers

as desired

or 2 sheets of pastry dough, baked

stiff,

let it

then fold into the honey.

wooden spoon

until

(Be sure to check the water

from time

Remove

Return the

to time so

it

it

stir-

becomes dense and

level in the

does not dry out.)

bottom pot Meanwhile,

prepare a syrup by heating the sugar with V2 cup water for about

and

is

20 minutes, or

at the brittle

until

it

begins to turn golden

thread stage, 300°F to 310°F on a

candy thermometer. (To see

870

boiler.

cool to lukewarm. Beat the egg

mixture to the double boiler and cook for 2 hours,

mandarin orange

3 cups almonds, toasted

As

tarallucci

20 minutes.

typical of Santo Stefano.

from the heat and whites until

by hand into

Arrange the

for about

Liquefy the honey in the top of a double cups honey

Flour a work

inch thick and 8 inches

rings.

ALMOND NOUGAT This recipe

oil.

and put them on the

surface. Roll out each piece

on the baking sheet and bake

/3

and a

Add some wine a little at a time to obtain an dough. Form the dough into a ball, wrap it in a

pinch of salt.

long; join the ends to

1

immerse them

CHIETI COOKIES

floured

MOLISE

and

Shape

logs.

pot of boiling

at a time, in a

the shape of a cylinder about

TORRONE

the eggs, lard,

blended and shape into small

these into doughnuts or figure eights and

face 1

oil.

honey

if it is

done put

a

drop of

the liquid sugar

of water or put

on a spoon and dip the spoon

in a glass

under running water from a

faucet. If

it

the thread of sugar does not drop off the spoon but solidified that

it

breaks, the syrup

syrup into the honey mixture.

add the

a few minutes, then

almonds.

on

TORRONE

D

I

NATALE

I

burn or

is

so

Stir the

together for

mandarin

zest,

and

over.

Wet your

and press the mix-

to stick)

Let cool completely, then cover

with another sheet of wafers or pastry and press well.

CHRISTMAS NOUGAT Grease a work surface with

SICILIA

Cook the two

vanilla,

and pour the mixture

as not to

ture into an even layer. it

ready.)

Spread the sheet of wafers or pastry dough

a baking sheet

hands (so

is

olive

oil.

Coarsely chop the

almonds, then combine them with the sugar in a pan over Olive

3 cups blanched

oil

low heat and,

almonds

cook

2 cups sugar

continuously with a

wooden spoon,

mixture has taken on a reddish-brown

Immediately pour the mixture out onto the work

color.

Candy sprinkles

stirring

until the

surface.

Level the surface with the

dampened blade of

a large knife. Let this cool, then cut in pieces of the desired size.

TORRONE Dl SEMI D SESAMO I

CALABRIA

I

SESAME NOUGAT Grease a cutting board or work surface with line

Olive 1

Zi

Z4

oil

cups honey

cup sesame seeds

(or as

many as

Decorate as desired with sprinkles.

heat

it

it

over low heat until thinned.

Immediately add

the seeds and almonds, stirring continuously with a

wooden spoon

until the

honey

is

a dark caramel color.

desired)

Pour out on the cutting board or Zi

olive oil or

with parchment. Put the honey in a saucepan and

a

marble surface and

cup almonds, shelled, toasted, and

chopped

let it cool,

then cut in pieces of the desired shape.

A

TORTA ALL’AR ANCI SICILIA

ORANGE CAKE Garnish with slightly caramelized orange slices,

Preheat the oven to 350°F. 5 large eggs, separated 1

2

Acups

1

'A

cups sugar

all-purpose flour

3 oz. (6 tbsp.) unsalted butter

Grated zest of

yolks, sugar, flour, butter,

them

Blend the orange

confectioners’ sugar to

Juice of 4 oranges, strained

the cake

and

make

stiff

this into a

juice,

the egg

Blend

zest.

place on a baking sheet, and bake until

baking powder

desired.

if

dough with

and orange Spread

into the mixture.

orange

1

a

baking powder. Beat the egg whites until

let it cool.

VA tsp.

Make

in the

and

fold

cake pan,

Remove and

set.

orange liqueur, and

a thin glaze. Drizzle over

serve.

2 tbsp. orange liqueur

cup confectioners’ sugar

Zi

TORTA BIANCA

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

ALMOND TART This recipe

is

typical of Reggio Emilia.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter and flour a 9-inch Butter, to

grease the pan

Flour, to flour the

pan

Pastry for a single-crust pie

% cups blanched almonds % cups sugar

1

springform cake pan, then pastry.

a

bowl with the sugar,

rately

cup anisette

Grated zest of

1

lemon

anisette,

whip the egg whites

1

Zi

line the

bottom and

the mixture.

and lemon

until stiff

them in

zest.

Sepa-

then fold them into

Grate the chocolate square over the pastry

then pour in the almond mixture and

Bake

sides with

Finely chop the almonds, then combine

until the filling

is set,

level off the top.

about 45 minutes.

3 large egg whites 1

oz. (1

square) semisweet chocolate

CAPRI CHOCOLATETORTA CAPRESE

ALMOND CAKE

8

FQR persons

CAMPANIA

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 10-inch round pan.

plus 6 tbsp.

eggs and blend well. Stir in the almonds, chocolate, and

Cream the Zt lb. (1 stick)

sugar with the butter until

fluffy,

then add the

unsalted butter

liqueur; thoroughly blend 1

Z*

all

the ingredients, then

the baking powder. 1

2

A cups

2

oz. (2

chopped almonds

squares) semisweet

chocolate, finely

chopped

3 tbsp. Strega liqueur 1

tsp.

baking powder

Confectioners’ sugar

872

add

cups sugar

Pour the mixture

6 large eggs, beaten

Bake

on

for

50 to 55 minutes, or until

a serving plate

set.

into the pan.

When done invert

and remove the pan. Let

it

cool, then

dust with the confectioners’ sugar before serving.

TOSCANA

This recipe

Mix For the dough:

A

3

rest for

cup sugar (1 /a

typical of Pisa.

20 minutes.

egg

1

salt,

then blend in

yolk.

Let the dough

Meanwhile prepare the

the rice

Stir in the

is soft.

nuts, candied fruit,

Salt

cocoa powder,

and lemon

zest.

Let

heat the oven to 400°F. Roll out the sheet about

filling:

A cup

2

cups

strips

rice

A

Zi 3

A cup

and place these

all

Cut

raisins,

pine

cool.

Pre-

dough

to

make

a

to line a pie pan, let-

the sides. Put in a

the remaining

around the pan. it

little

dough

The

into

filling

can be covered

remaining egg yolk and bake for 20 minutes. Let

cup pine nuts

then sprinkle

diced candied fruit 1

filling.

it

with strips of dough. Brush the dough strips with the

cup raisins

Grated zest of

dough hang over

it

can remain exposed in the middle or

unsweetened cocoa powder 3

inch thick and use

over an inch of the

A cup sugar

A

Vs

ting the extra

6 cups milk 3

1

Add

the rice and cook until the liquid has been absorbed and

egg yolks

For the

filling,

bringing the milk and sugar to a boil in a saucepan.

cups)

unsalted butter 2 large eggs plus 2 large

is

the flour, sugar, and a pinch of

the butter and whole eggs plus

4 cups all-purpose flour

2/2 sticks

FOR 10-12 PERSONS

PISA-STYLE RICE TART

TORTA COI BISCHERI

it

it

cool,

with confectioners’ sugar.

lemon

Confectioners’ sugar

TORTA COLONNE

PUGLIA

I

CHERRY-ALMOND TART Whisk together monds,

1

A

cups all-purpose flour 1

1

tbsp.

cups sugar

Va

unsweetened cocoa powder 1

1

tbsp.

ground cinnamon

Zi

cups chopped almonds

A

lb. (1

stick) plus 6 tbsp.

unsalted butter 2 large eggs. 1

1

1

a

butter,

the dry ingredients, then 1

egg, vanilla,

work

in the al-

and cherry liqueur to form

smooth dough. Let it rest for

1

hour

in the refrigerator.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Roll out two-thirds of the

dough on

a baking sheet, cover with a layer of cherry jam,

then cover with the remaining dough cut in

Brush with the remaining egg yolk and bake

strips.

for

1

hour.

Serve cold.

separated

tsp. vanilla extract

tbsp. cherry liqueur

or kirschwasser 1

cup sour cherry jam, or as needed

873

E

PEAR TART

TORTA CON LE PERE

LOMBARDIA

The tart comes

into its true

fragrance 24 hours after being

baked.

% cups all-purpose flour

1

1

Combine the flour with Vi cup sugar, the egg yolks, butter, a pinch of salt. Knead the dough well and set aside to

cup sugar

and

2 large egg yolks Za lb. (1 stick)

rest for

plus 3tbsp. butter,

about 30 minutes

in a cool spot (even the refrig-

erator).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour

a pie pan.

Combine

melted 1

Vi

sugar, cloves,

and cut

in

without coming apart.

thin slices

A few whole cloves

cinnamon

and cinnamon

dough

stick

to

Remove

form 2 sheets about

to line the pie pan.

Salt

distributing

them

Over

it

in a lattice pattern.

golden, then

another

LOMBARDIA

Simmer

i

1

let it

at

low heat

Roll out the

inch thick. Use one sheet

dough arrange

the pears,

Cover with the other sheet of strips

Bake

remain

the cloves.

Vs

this

evenly.

dough or cut the sheet into

TORTA CREDO

in a pan.

so the wine will not caramelize and the pears will soften

6 pears, peeled, cored,

2 or 3 pieces

the red wine, pears, 3 tablespoons

cups red wine,

such as Bonarda or Gutturnio

and arrange them across

for about

in the

30 minutes,

until

oven with the heat off for

0 minutes.

ALMOND CAKE This recipe

is

typical of

1

Cremona.

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Beat the egg yolks with the 8 large eggs, separated 1

Zi Zi

cup

Ya

cups sugar

cup almond liqueur

finely

chopped almonds

sugar until thick and pale, then add the liqueur and

monds.

Stir in the bread.

Whip

then fold into the mixture.

bake

until set,

5

egg whites until

Pour

into a cake

al-

stiff,

pan and

about 25 minutes.

4 oz. crumbled dry bread (or Zi

cup breadcrumbs)

TORTA

D N OX 1

VENETO

WALNUT CARAMEL

PIE

Begin the dough by combining the walnuts with the

flour.

Separately work the butter and the sugar together with For the dough: 3

A cup

finely 1

chopped walnuts

cup all-purpose flour

Ya lb. (1 stick)

unsalted butter

CONTINUED

874

the egg yolk;

kneading

it

2 hours to

add

this to the flour

and nuts without

too much. Set this aside in a cool place for rest.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Heat the

sugar and lemon juice over

medium

heat until golden.

Yz

cup sugar

large egg yolk

1

Bring the cream to a fee;

whisk

this

walnuts and For the

filling:

cups sugq,r

2

Juice of 2 lemons 1

cups heavy cream

Vz

Yz

cup honey

form two

boil,

then mix in the honey and cof-

mixture into the sugar mixture.

let

the mixture cool.

sheets.

Use one

to cover the

to

sides

this, level-

then cover with the second sheet of dough,

off,

it

dough

bottom and

of a pie pan. Spread the walnut mixture over ing

Stir in the

Roll out the

pinching the edges to or until the

dough

is

Bake

seal.

for about

30 minutes,

dark golden.

2 tbsp. black coffee

2Ya cups finely chopped walnuts

TORTA

Dl

AMANDOLE

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

ALMOND CAKE This recipe

is

2

typical of Castell’Arquato.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a pie pan. Toss the 1

plus 4 tbsp.

Vi lbs. (2 sticks)

monds

al-

with half the sugar and spread on a baking sheet.

unsalted butter Vz

cup

finely

chopped almonds 1

Vz

cups sugar

3 large egg yolks 3 Yz cups all-purpose flour

Grated zest of

1

lemon

let cool.

In a bowl

cream the butter and the remaining sugar

until fluffy,

Toast until lighdy caramelized, then

then add the egg yolks, flour, and lemon toasted almonds, working

them

oven and turning

TORTA Dl

Dl

FARINA

GRANO SARACENO ALTO ADIGE

it

45 minutes, or let rest, still in

Ya

cups

(Yz lb.

plus 4 tbsp.)

unsalted butter, softened 3 tbsp. all-purpose flour 1

Vz

cups sugar

6 large eggs, separated 1

Vz

cups buckwheat flour

2]4tsp. baking

powder

1

cup red currant jam

1

Yz

cups heavy cream

until set.

the pan,

1

Remove from

the

0 to 15 minutes before

out and serving.

BUCKWHEAT CAKE The most recent version of this most excellent cake includes a quantity of

1

zest. Stir in the

these ingredients to blend

Pour the mixture into the pie pan and bake

well.

for about

all

To

make

wheat

ground almonds equal to the amount of

flour.

a cake with a 12-inch diameter use V/z cups buck-

flour, the

same

quantity almonds,

Yz

pound

(2 sticks)

plus 2 tablespoons butter, and V/z cups sugar.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Butter and flour a 9-inch cake pan.

Cream

the butter until

it’s

fluffy,

then slowly add

the sugar and, one at a time, the egg yolks, mixing well after

each addition to make the sugar dissolve com-

pletely.

Sift the

buckwheat

flour together with the

all-

purpose flour and the baking powder then add to the butter mixture

whites

stiff

and

1

tablespoon

fold

them

in.

at a time.

Whip

the egg

Pour the dough into the

875

cake pan and bake for about 40 minutes. inserted

comes out clean the cake

cool completely, then cut

tom

half with the jam.

it

is

in half

Whip

toothpick

Let the cake

and spread the bot-

cream

the

If a

done.

until

stiff,

then

spread over the reassembled cake.

torta

d lodi i

I

LOMBARDIA

ALMOND CAKE Tradition calls for

3

making crosswise

1

1

cup blanched almonds

Zi sticks (12 tbsp.) 1

unsalted butter

Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter

A cups all-purpose flour

1

it

cup sugar

Zi

in

in a

pan and

zest,

Ktsp. baking powder

Remove from

the heat

and

set aside.

and baking powder. Fold

in the

almonds.

LOCAL TRADITION I

This cornmeal cake from Lombardia

around the holidays and natural yeast, which

yeast

is

is

FARINA GIALLA was once

distinguished by

its

a traditional sweet treat for children

use of a larger-than-usual amount of

the leftover yeast from making

made these cakes

lighter

homemade

bread. This extra

and crustier than similar recipes. To make the cake,

cornmeal, rye flour, and all-purpose flour were mixed with sugar, water, and the natural yeast. Raisins, ripe figs,

and

soon as

Mix

to-

Put the

mixture in a baking pan and bake for about 30 minutes, until golden.

D

as

gether the flour, remaining butter, sugar, egg yolk, lemon

lemon

TORTA

the oven.

changes color add the almonds and give them a quick

toasting.

large egg yolk

Grated zest of

it

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Finely chop the almonds.

2

1

across the sur-

lines

face of the cake with a fork before putting

salt

were added and the cakes would be baked

several small loaves at a high temperature, as though baking whole-wheat bread.

in

E

TORTA Dl MELE MOSTARDA CON GELATO Dl MELE

VENETO Unsalted butter and flour, for the

pan

For the short pastry:

cups all-purpose flour

1 V-i

3 large egg yolks

cup sugar

1

14 lb. (1 stick)

plus 3 tbsp.

unsalted butter, softened

and cut

into pieces

Grated zest of

lemon

1

Salt

I

I

APPLE TART

WITH MOSTARDA When serving, top each slice with a scoop of apple or vanilla ice cream and a few fresh apple slices. Mostarda di Carpi is a sweet-style mostarda, fruit preserves in grape must.

Butter and flour a 9-inch pie pan. yolks to

make

dough

a

ing the sugar, butter,

Use

the flour

on page 751, add-

and lemon

zest with the egg

salt,

Refrigerate for about 30 minutes.

yolks.

prepare the

Put the apples and sugar

filling.

pan with 2 tablespoons add the mostarda. surface to about

and egg

as in the recipe

water.

Cook for

1

Meanwhile in a sauce-

0 minutes then

Roll out the short pastry

on the work

inch thick. Setting aside one section

14

to use as the top crust, use the pastry to line the pie pan. Fill

the pastry with the apple mixture and cover with

the remaining sheet of dough, closing the edges tightly. For the

filling:

Bake

until golden,

about 40 minutes.

8 apples, peeled,

cored, and chopped 2 tbsp. sugar 2 tbsp.

mostorda

di carpi

(see note)

TORTA

Dl

MELE

PERE

E

LOMBARDIA

APPLE AND PEAR CAKE Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter and flour a cake pan.

Melt 5 tablespoons of the 14 lb. (1 stick)

unsalted butter

cup all-purpose flour

1

1

1

1

Zi tsp.

14

large egg

cups sugar

baking powder

Grated zest of 1

14

cups

milk, or as

1

lemon

needed

2 lbs. apples, peeled,

cored, and thinly sliced 1

14 lbs.

pears, peeled,

cored, and thinly sliced

melted butter,

14

powder, lemon

make

a soft

thick

and use

Spread the

zest,

dough. it

Mix

butter.

the flour, egg,

cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, baking

and

as

to cover the

fruit slices

much

Roll out this

milk as needed to

dough about

after 15

inch

over the dough, dust with the re-

maining sugar, and dot with the remaining

Bake and

%

bottom of the cake pan.

butter.

minutes lower the heat to 350°F.

The

cake should require a good hour in the oven to permit the

dough

butter to

to cook, the fruit to blend,

form a

light crust

on the

and the sugar and

top.

Serve warm.

877

TORTA

Dl

NOCCIOLE

PIEMONTE

HAZELNUT CAKE This recipe

is

typical of the

FOR PERSONS

8

Langhe area.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a cake pan. Spread the 14 lb. (1 stick) butter, 1

A cups

2

1

1

!

softened

shelled hazelnuts

cup sugar

4 cups all-purpose

flour

3 large eggs, beaten Zi

hazelnuts in an even layer

remove the

flour oil,

skins.

Let cool slighdy and chop them.

and add the

TORTA

Zi tsp.

Dl

extract

Serve

at

room

%

inch.

PATATE DOLCI

and breadcrumbs, for the pan

4 large sweet potatoes Zi

Blend

in the cake pan;

Bake

for

it

30 min-

temperature.

SWEET POTATO CAKE If

you wish you can decorate the baked cake with orange and

lemon peels and citrus flowers. Anisette oil

In-

sugar and

baking powder

VENETO Olive

Mix the

until blended.

Spread the mixture

rum utes.

1

Rub

nuts. Stir in the eggs, coffee, milk, olive

rum, vanilla, and baking powder

should have a thickness of Zi tsp. vanilla

about 7 minutes.

oil

in the butter. 2tbsp.

a baking sheet, then toast

crease the oven temperature to 400°F.

cup milk

tbsp. extra-virgin olive

on

lightiy golden,

the hazelnuts in a dish towel to loosen the skins, then

cup coffee Zi

1

and

until fragrant

cup all-purpose flour

3 large apples, peeled,

with anise seeds. 1

If

you do not have

it,

is

a liqueur flavored

you could substitute

tablespoon of crushed aniseed.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a cake pan with olive oil

and dust with breadcrumbs. Boil the sweet potatoes

until soft,

then peel them. Crush them by hand, then

mix them

in a

cored, and sliced

h cup

2

chopped dried

Pour Zi

cup milk

A cup

2

raisins

4 tbsp. sugar 1

tbsp. honey

2 large eggs 3 tbsp. anisette (or

rum or plum brandy) Salt

878

bowl with the other ingredients

in order.

figs

into the

pan and bake

until set,

about

1

hour.

I

TORTA

D RISO ALL’ANTICA 1

!

VALLE D'AOSTA

OLD-FASHIONED RICE PUDDING CAKE The cake can be eaten

warm

or cold. This recipe

is

typical of

Aosta. 'A

cup (4tbsp.) unsalted butter Zi

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a cake pan and sprin-

cup breadcrumbs 1

cups

fi

of

4 cups milk 1

Zi

cup

1

raisins, softened in

salt, stirring

keep

to

When

the pan.

cup sugar

Grated zest of

breadcrumbs. Cook the

kle with

rice

and the

warm

eggs.

the pan.

from

the rice

the butter, the sugar,

lemon

it

is

lemon

Mix with

rice in milk

and a pinch

sticking to the

bottom of

done add 3 tablespoons of pinch of salt,

zest, raisins, a

Pour the

care.

rice

mixture into

Dust with the remaining breadcrumbs and dot

water, dried, and lightly floured

Bake

with butter.

for

20 minutes or

until golden.

2 large eggs, beaten Salt

TORTA

Dl

BAKED RICE CUSTARD FROM CARRARE

RISO CARRARINA

TOSCANA

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour a cake pan. Boil the rice in lightly salted water to cover for 5 minutes

Butter and flour, for the pan 1

cup

thick,

15 large eggs

salt.

Gradually whisk in the

Spread the cooked

zest.

rice across the

bottom of the pan and pour over the milk mixture.

4 cups milk 1

then add a pinch of

milk and lemon

2 cups sugar

Grated zest of

Beat the eggs and sugar until pale and

then set aside.

rice

Bake

for about

50 minutes.

lemon Salt

TORTA Dl RISO OR DEGLI ADDOBBI

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

1

RICE PUDDING CAKE The addobbi (sacred church vessels and statuary) were ebrated with a procession

4tbsp. unsalted butter 2 cups milk

% cup sugar Grated zest of 1

%

1

lemon

cups

rice

3 large eggs Zi

cup chopped candied citron Zz

cup chopped almonds

Maraschino liqueur

10 years

in

in

cel-

the parishes of Bologna every

June and the windows along the streets down

which the procession moved were decorated.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a round cake pan. Heat

lemon

zest,

and

and cook

until

it

has

the eggs, butter, candied

cit-

the milk with 2 cups water, the sugar, little salt;

when

absorbed the ron,

it

boils

liquid.

and almonds.

minutes. Let cool shapes, brush

add the

Add Pour

slightly,

rice

into the

pan and bake

for

a

30

then cut the cake into diamond

them with the

liqueur,

and serve warm.

879

TORTA

D SUSINE I

PLUM CAKE

RAMASSIN

PIEMONTE

10

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour a pie pan.

Soak the plums Unsalted butter and

in

lukewarm water and soak the amaretti

Squeeze the plums

in the milk.

until dry,

then coarsely

Pour the milk and amaretti

into a sauce-

all-purpose flour, for the pan 3 1

A

chop them.

dried yellow or green plums

lbs.

pan and add the cocoa, sugar, 1

lb.

eggs, plums,

amaretti

and rum.

2 cups milk

Stir until

lemon

zest,

blended, then pour into the pie pan.

Bake for about 40 minutes,

% cup unsweetened cocoa powder

Serve with a

until set.

dusting of confectioners’ sugar.

cup sugar

1

FOR PERSONS

12 large eggs Vi tsp.

grated lemon zest

3tbsp.

rum

Confectioners’ sugar

TORTA

Dl

TAGLIOLINI

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

I

TAGLIOLINI PIE Preheat the oven to 425°F. ing powder.

For the dough: 1

cups all-purpose flour

'A

% cup sugar 1

Zi tsp.

baking powder 1

A

cup 1

(4 tbsp.)

tbsp. bitter

plus

large egg

unsalted butter

almond

more

liqueur,

recipe

Use

tagliolini:

cups all-purpose flour 1

large egg

Use

pie pan.

the flour

as in the recipe

filling:

% cup blanched almonds cup candied citron

Grated zest of 1

1

lemon

cup sugar

3 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces

880

on page

For the

set aside.

and egg 1

0,

a

dough

and use to

make

it

to line a

a pasta

then cut into fine

filling, finely

as in the

and liqueur with

sugar. This will have a

powdery

deep

dough

tagliolini;

chop the almonds

to-

Add

the

gether with the candied citron and lemon zest.

almond

filling

consistency.

Spread a

over the dough in the pie

pan. Arrange over this a layer of the tagliolini and continue alternating layers of filling final layer

dough For the

Yi

the butter

the egg. Roll out a sheet of dough

and bak-

flour, sugar,

for sprinkling

For the

A

Mix the

and the egg to make

on page 751, adding

thin layer of the

1

it

this

is

with butter.

well

and

tagliolini.

Bake for 30 minutes, or

cooked and the

Dot

the

until the

tagliolini is golden.

When

has cooled sprinkle with bitter almond liqueur.

TORTA

CHRISTMAS EYE CAKE

D VIGILIA I

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

and add the lemon 34 lb. (34

cup) plus 6 tbsp.

Whip

and

juice

the butter until fluffy

zest with

1

tablespoon ice

Add the sugar, vanilla, almonds, and flour. Work-

water.

unsalted butter, softened

ing quickly, divide the Juice and grated zest of

1

dough

in

two

parts,

one larger

lemon

than the other. Pat the large one in an even layer across 1

34

cups sugar

the 1

1

34

cups

34

1

1

finely

bottom of a pie pan, about

to

cups all-purpose flour

about

form

I

TORTA NERA

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

34

inch thickness. Slice out strips about

wide. Cover the jam with these strips, interlacing a latticework.

dough

I

is

34 lb. (34

cup) plus 2 tbsp.

unsalted butter, softened

cups blanched almonds 5 large eggs, separated 1

34

h cup

This recipe

Giacomo

34

cup powdered instant espresso coffee Grated zest of

1

lemon

2 tbsp. anisette 1

A cups

2

all-purpose flour Salt

for

30 minutes, or

typical of Reggio Emilia. This

is

in

Barozzi,

is

inch to

until the

also called

Modena after a recipe by the known as “II Vignola.”

architect

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a pie pan with butter.

Toast the almonds in the oven until

lightly

grind them in a mortar to a paste.

cups sugar

unsweetened cocoa powder

Bake

34

them

COFFEE AND CHOCOLATE PIE

yolks 2

this

dough

golden brown.

Torta Barozzi

34

Cover

inch thick.

Roll or pat out the remaining

with a layer of jam.

chopped almonds

cup raspberry, black currant, or strawberry jam

1

34

tsp. vanilla extract

and

34

browned, then

Beat 4 of the egg

cup of the sugar with a mixer on medium

speed until thick and pale, then add the other ingredients

one

at a time:

the butter, stiff,

cocoa, coffee, lemon zest, 5 tablespoons of

and the

anisette.

Beat 4 of the egg whites until

then fold them into the mixture.

Let

this rest

while preparing the pastry. Blend together the flour and

remaining butter, then blend

in the

remaining sugar, re-

maining whole egg, and a pinch of

dough forms. Cover with it

aside to rest for about

a sheet

dough

and use

it

5 minutes.

Roll

it

to line the pie pan, cutting

that extends

mixture into

1

salt until a

beyond the edges.

this, filling

smooth

a clean kitchen towel, then set

it

out to form

away

to the top. Reroll the

scraps to a sheet and cover the

filling,

all

the

Pour the almond

dough

sealing the edges,

but making a few vents in the top crust. Bake for about

40 minutes or

until golden.

Let cool before serving.

881

TORTA PAR ADISO

LOMBARDIA

PARADISE CAKE This recipe

plus 4 tbsp. unsalted

butter, at

room temperature 6 large egg yolks

plus 2 large egg whites 1

% cups sugar

Grated zest of

1

lemon

% cup all-purpose flour, sifted 1

'A

cups potato starch,

sifted

Vanilla

sugar

is

the cake

foil Zi lb. (2 sticks)

typical of Pavia.

If

kept wrapped

long time and improve

will last a

aluminum

in

Add

in flavor.

the vanilla sugar just before serving each time.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a 10-inch pie pan.

Whip

the butter in a bowl with a

better, with

an

Add

white.

wooden spoon

electric beater until

or,

even

very soft and almost

the egg yolks, one at a time, waiting for

each to be completely blended before adding the next.

While constandy beating the mixture add the sugar, then

When

the

lemon

all

the ingredients are blended, clean the beaters and

zest,

then the flour and potato starch.

whip the egg whites

in a separate

bowl

until

Add

stiff.

2

tablespoons egg whites to the butter mixture, then fold in the rest, gently

mixing from the bottom up.

mixture into the pan and bake for about

when

toothpick to determine

out clean

when

TORTA SABBIOSA

VENETO

cooked

Pour the

Use

hour. will

(it

a

come

inserted into the center of the cake) In-

vert onto a wire rack pletely.

it is

1

.

and remove the pan. Let cool com-

Serve with a dusting of vanilla sugar.

SANDY CAKE Variation: use equal parts of potato starch

and yellow po-

lenta flour (fioreffocornmeal). The result will be very similar Zi lb. (1

cup) plus 2 tbsp.

unsalted butter, softened All-purpose flour, for the pan 1

% cups sugar

3 large eggs, separated 1

% cups potato starch

1

Zi tsp.

baking powder

Grated zest of

1

lemon

Confectioners’ sugar Salt

to the Polentina di Cittadella (see

well

is

known even outside regional borders.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour a 9-inch cake pan.

Cream

the butter

and sugar

until fluffy,

the egg yolks with the mixer running. starch, baking

Whip ture.

Add

then add

the potato

powder, a pinch of salt, and lemon

the egg whites until

Pour the mixture

stiff,

into the

zest.

then fold into the mix-

pan and bake

30 minutes without ever opening the oven. baked, invert onto a serving plate. Let with confectioners’ sugar.

882

page 846), a cake that

it

for about

When

it is

cool and dust

LOCAL TRADITION

TORTA NOVECENTO famed Canavese pastry chef

At the beginning of the twentieth century, notti

Ottavio Berti

created this highly original sponge cake to celebrate the year 1900. The “1900

cake” quickly became famous throughout tinotti, tired of

Italy;

so

much

so, in fact, that by 1964, Ber-

seeing impostors trading on the now-famous name, finally patented

the recipe. Though the method of combining the ingredients remains a mystery, distinguished by the use of chocolate In

in

both the sponge

itself

and

in

the cream

1971, however, he taught the secrets of the "torta novecento” to his

whose eponymous pastry company has been making about this exquisite confection

and a mixture

is

it

ever since. What

is

it

is

filling.

Umberto

Balia,

known

that the sponge cake consists of eggs, butter, sugar,

and yeast. The delectable cream

of flour, potato starch, cocoa,

filling

contains milk, vanilla, eggs, butter, sugar, shards of real chocolate, and flour. The

renowned cake has become

a culinary

landmark

of Ivrea.

CRUMBLY I

TORTA SBRISOLON A

LOMBARDIA

I

ALMOND CAKE

Olive

oil,

for the

pan

/i

pound

(2 sticks) plus

butter, at

A cups

2 1

4 tbsp.

room temperature

peeled, toasted, and

chopped almonds 'A

cup sugar

PERSONS

first blanch them in boiling water Remove and drain them. They should

To peel almonds, you must for about 30 seconds.

3/3 cups all-purpose flour

6

pop out of their peels easily when pressed.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a large baking pan least

with

10 inches in diameter) with olive flour.

blended.

Combine

all

(at

and dust

it

the ingredients, mixing just until

Do not work the dough too much.

Spread the

A

inches thick.

mixture in the pan.

It

should be about

Bake until golden, 30 then

oil

unmold onto

to

1

l

40 minutes. Let it cool

slightly,

a wire rack to cool completely.

CARNIVAL FRITTERS

TORTELLI

PIEMONTE

This recipe

is

typical of the Antigorio Valley

Heat the milk over medium heat cup milk

1

]4 lb. (1 stick)

butter, eggs, 2 large eggs

1

Zi tsp.

1

lemon

grappa. Gradually

lemon

dough.

Transfer

and Formazza.

it

to a

add the

salt,

vanilla,

and

make

a soft

work surface and knead

for 10

stir in

Roll out the

enough

FOR PERSONS

bubbles form on

baking powder,

juice,

baking powder

minutes. 1

until

the edges of the pan. Stirring constantly,

unsalted butter, melted

Juice of

6

dough

to

flour to

form

a thin sheet

and

tsp. vanilla extract

use a pastry wheel to cut strips as long and wide as de2 tbsp. grappa

Heat several inches of olive

sired.

oil in

a

saucepan and

All-purpose flour (as

much

Olive

fry the

as needed)

oil,

golden. Drain on paper towels, dust

tortelli until

with sugar, and serve warm.

for frying

Sugar, for dusting Salt

LOCAL TRADITION

TO RTO The recipe for this anise cake from Terracina are beaten together, then yeast yeast,

all

added

is

of the other ingredients are

LI

in

again

—

oven

until

ultimately tripling

golden.

In

in

it

is

is

is

then

left

and

oil,

rum,

UMBRIA

!

was

left

CONTINUED

to rise in a

hot

called Tortone.

ALMOND-FRUIT BISCOTTI Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking sheet with butter. Beat the

large egg plus 3 large egg yolks

vanilla,

rise for twenty-

divided into different baking dishes and

Fondi, a very similar cake

Unsalted butter

884

olive

to rest

volume. The different anise cakes are then baked

TOZZETTI

1

very simple. Sugar and eggs

make the dough:

to

grated bread, anise seeds, and flour. The dough four hours, after which time

Lazio

to the mixture. After the addition of the

added

egg and egg yolks with the sugar

until

thickened and pale. Blend in the flour and other ingredients to

make

Shape

a firm

dough, adding more flour

this into a cylinder, place

if

needed.

on the baking

sheet,

1

Ya

cups sugar

3 cups all-purpose flour,

and bake wise to

Let

for 15 minutes.

make

it

cool, then cut cross-

the tozzetti.

more as needed

plus

3 /a

cup

olive oil

% cup chopped blanched almonds % cup chopped candied fruit Ya

cup anisette

Pinch baking powder

CON

LE

TOZZETTI NOCCIOLE

LAZIO

HAZELNUT COOKIES This recipe

is

typical of the Viterbo area

Cimini. The area of the Cimini Yi

cup extra-virgin

6% cups

olive oil

all-purpose flour 7 large

eggs

2Yi cups sugar

nut production, and the nuts are used to dishes.

Among

common

the most

and that

Mountains

is

of the Monti

a center of hazel-

make many

regional

of these are tozzetti, for

which there are numerous recipes that vary

terms

in

gredients and proportions. The one given here

is

of in-

one of the

most widespread. baking powder

tsp.

1

Grated zest of Yi 1

Ya lbs.

1

lemon

cup milk (optional) hazelnuts, baked

in

the oven and skinned; half whole, half coarsely

chopped

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking sheet with olive oil

and dust with

flour.

bowl with the sugar

in a

in the olive oil, sired, milk.

baking powder, lemon

Mix

well,

little

dough

into cylinders

at a

and

pale.

zest,

and,

%

if

de-

Add Form

the the

inch in diameter and 4 inches

Arrange these on the baking

sheet. Beat the re-

maining egg and brush on the dough. Bake

Remove the pan from

about 15 minutes.

Blend

then add the hazelnuts.

time to obtain a soft dough.

flour a

long.

Beat 6 of the eggs together

until thickened

until golden,

the oven,

and

before the cylinders have had time to cool completely cut

them crosswise

to

form

% -inch-long

turn them to the sheet and put a

UOVA RIPIENE AL CIOCCOLATO BASILICATA

plus

1

Re-

the oven for

few minutes to brown, about 15 minutes more.

CHOCOLATE-STUFFED EGGS Peel the hard-boiled eggs, cut

and remove the 10 large hard-boiled eggs

cookies.

them back in

them

in half lengthwise,

yolks, setting aside the whites.

Work

the yolks together with the cinnamon, vanilla, cocoa,

large egg white

sugar, 1

tsp.

and liqueur

to obtain a mixture that

is

not overly

the egg-white halves.

Heat 2

cinnamon soft.

CONTINUED

Use

this to

inches of olive

oil in

fill

a saucepan. Whip the remaining egg

885

2tsp. vanilla extract 3

A cup unsweetened cocoa powder Sugar

(to taste)

white until

stiff,

lightly flour the halves, dip

whipped egg white, then

fry until golden.

them

in the

Arrange on a

serving plate and dust with confectioners’ sugar.

Aromatic liqueur (as desired) Olive

oil,

for frying

All-purpose flour, for dredging Confectioners’ sugar

ZABAIONE

1

PIEMONTE

ZABAGLIONE Serve accompanied by ladyfingers or similar cookies.

Bring a pot of water to a simmer. In a heatproof bowl 8 large egg yolks 8 tbsp.

sugar

16 half eggshells of dry Marsala

whisk together the egg yolks and the sugar

and

pale.

simmering water and beat the mixture

and foamy. slightly,

ZABAIONE

2

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

2% 'A

egg yolks

cups sugar

cup dry Marsala 3 tbsp.

rum

Continue beating

until

it

to

make

it

soft

begins to bubble

then pour into cups and serve hot.

ZABAGLIONE WITH RUM This recipe

wine 5 large

until thick

Gradually whisk in the Marsala; place over the

in

is

typical of

Parma. A variation uses only white

place of both the Marsala and the rum.

Combine the egg yolks, sugar, Marsala, and rum in put it

it

a pan,

over low heat, and begin stirring without whipping

up too much.

Let

it

cook a few minutes,

the zabaglione will be firm

stirring, so

and not overly foamy. Serve

hot or lukewarm (even as a side dish to zampone).

ZALETI

VENETO

CORNMEAL COOKIES Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a baking sheet. Beat the eggs and sugar until thick and pale, then blend in the but-

1

A

sticks butter (or 5 oz. lard),

ter (or lard)

Mix the cornmeal and flour with the baking

.

softened

powder and

stir

into the egg mixture. Stir in the raisins,

2 large eggs, beaten

% cup sugar 2 cups cornmeal

CONTINUED

886

pine nuts, milk, lemon zest, and vanilla to obtain a smooth

dough.

Shape the dough by hand

3 inches long.

Arrange the ovals

into small ovals in

about

rows on the baking

2 tsp. baking z

/3

cup

sheet and bake until golden, 20 to 25 minutes (cooking

cups all-purpose flour

Zi

1

raisins,

soaked

powder in

time

will

vary according to the size of the

zaleti).

warm

water, drained, and squeezed dry

cup pine nujs

Yi Zi

cup whole milk

2 tbsp. grated lemon zest

K2 tsp.

vanilla extract

LOCAL TRADITION

TREDICI ERBE This digestif, Biella

known

poetically as “thirteen herb liqueur,”

is

typical of Graglia in the

area of Piemonte. A quantity of sugar would be dissolved

in

tepid water and

then mixed with a quart of pure alcohol. The mixture would be poured into a glass jar or bottle and the thirteen herbs

—

traditionally also thirteen leaves of each

be added: rue, archibus, sage, limonina, mint, lemon balm, basil,

lemon peel (without any

(1

—would

sprig of) rosemary,

juniper berries, a pinch of cinnamon, and

pith), chives,

gentian root. After thirteen days of steeping, the liqueur would be strained, the herbs discarded, and the tredici erbe bottled and

left

to rest in a cool,

dark place for at least

three months. This was a popular digestive.

zeppole calabresi

CALABRIA

I

CALABRIAN FRITTERS These are a Christmas tradition.

Grease a work surface (marble 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive

plus

more

for the

oil,

work surface 3

A cup sugar 1

1

Zi

Za

at

cup semolina flour

A cup

When

bay it

leaf,

boils

is

best) with olive

a saucepan,

and a pinch of salt, and bring

to a boil.

remove the pan from the heat and

once add the mixture of

flours, stirring rapidly

energetically with a

wooden spoon.

on the heat and continue

to

Put the pan back

dry white wine

pause for about 10 minutes. When the mixture

and compact, remove the bay egg yolks and wine.

Turn

all

and

work the mixture without

Lard, for frying

CONTINUED

oil.

add the sugar,

flour,

4 large egg yolks 2

olive oil,

bay leaf

cups all-purpose

mixed with

Pour 2 cups of cold water into

leaf

is

smooth

and incorporate the

the mixture out onto the

887

sugar or sugar flavored

Vanilla

with cinnamon Salt

work surface and Heat 2 inches of

Shape

let it cool.

lard in a

it

into doughnuts.

saucepan and fry the dough-

nuts until golden. As they cook pierce

them from time

to

time with the tines of a fork to release the particles of

dough

When

that characterize these zeppole.

they are

golden and crunchy drain them well on paper towels.

Dust with

ZEPPOLE

Dl

SAN GIUSEPPE

CAMPANIA

vanilla sugar or sugar flavored with

YEASTED FRITTERS This recipe

is

typical of Naples.

Boil the potatoes until tender, peel them, 3

A

potatoes

lb.

still

2/2 cups all-purpose flour 214 tsp. active dry yeast

3tbsp. lukewarm milk, plus

more as needed

Grated zest of Zz

cup

olive oil (or

Zi

lemon

4tbsp. butter) 1

Olive

oil,

large egg for frying

Sugar Salt

cinnamon.

through a sieve or food

hot,

in a well

and

spoons milk.

dissolve the yeast at the center in 3 table-

Add

the potatoes and

the other ingredi-

working them into the flour and,

seems too hard, add a

Knead

all

which the zeppole

ents (except the sugar in rolled),

and pass them,

Arrange the flour

mill.

for 10 minutes

parts. Roll out

more milk

little

if

in 6 equal

each piece on the work surface to form

and about 8 inches

long.

Form

these

Sprinkle a clean kitchen towel with flour. into doughnuts,

making the ends meet and

pressing one end

down

atop the other.

on the floured

dish towel but in such a

weight on the dough. 2 inches of olive

one or two

dough

as needed.

and divide the dough

thick cords, as thick as a finger

these zeppole

be

will

the

oil in

at a time,

Let a

then over

cloth,

way it

that rise

it 1

by

sealing

One by one

place

this rest a

does not rest

to

V/2

its

hours. Heat

saucepan and fry the zeppole,

over low heat so they do not brown.

Drain them on a wire rack, then

roll

them

in sugar.

Let

cool completely.

ZIPPULAS

HONEY-FILLED FRITTERS

SARDEGNA

There are those who prefer to soak the balls

in

grappa

in

which honey has been dissolved. Va lb. (1 stick)

plus 6tbsp.

unsalted butter 1

% cups all-purpose flour

Bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a pan with the butter

and a pinch of salt. When the water from the heat and pour

CONTINUED

wooden spoon to

in

all

boils

remove the pan

the flour, stirring with a

create a ball of dough that easily

comes

Olive

9 large eggs

away from the

sides of the pan.

for frying

working them

in

oil,

Lard, for frying 1

cup honey

2tbsp. grappe

Sugar Salt

forms bubbles on

its

and lard

in a skillet

them

until

and

let

as the

in a cloth

it

and drop

As soon

Mix

make an

as they

the

this,

brown

honey and grappa bottle.

As soon

incision in each

of the honey mixture.

let it

olive oil

them drain on paper

skillet, let

cool slightly.

dough

and

of the dough into

balls

blended and transfer to a squeeze

little

the eggs to this,

Heat equal parts

swell as they fry.

they can be handled in a

wrap

surface

remove them from the towels,

Add

As soon

at a time.

about 45 minutes.

rest for

letting

one

as

and pipe

Sprinkle the balls with

sugar and serve.

ZUCCOTTO

TOSCANA

CREAM-FILLED SPONGE CAKE bombe mold

Line a

6

FQR PERSONS

or small mixing bowl with plastic

wrap, leaving several extra inches on the edges. Whip the 1

cups

Zi

light

h cup

2

1

A cup

3

oz.

confectioners’ sugar

A cups

2

2

whipping cream

ricotta

cheese

chopped candied

fruit

bittersweet chocolate, chopped 1

square) unsweetened

oz. (1

chocolate, melted and

cooled slightly 1

Zi

fc-lb.

sponge cake (see page 843)

cup mixed liqueurs (Maraschino, rum, kirsch, alchermes [see note, page 786], diluted with 2 tbsp.

cream and confectioners’ sugar Divide

mixture.

slightly larger fruit

this

peaks form.

mixture in two portions, one

than the other.

fold the

these slices and cover

mixture, spreading

more

slices

it

and brush them

Line the mold or bowl with

them with the smaller portion of

whipped cream mixture.

plastic

chopped candied

to the larger portion;

in thin slices

with the liqueur mixture.

with

the

unsweetened chocolate into the smaller portion.

Cut the sponge cake

the

Add

and the bittersweet chocolate

Fill

the cavity with the other

fill

the space and covering

etc.),

water

until stiff

Press the ricotta through a sieve and fold into the cream

out to

Wrap

of soaked sponge cake.

around the cake and

the

refrigerate this for several

hours before serving.

ZUPPA ALLE MANDORLE

VALLE D'AOSTA

ALMOND BREAD PUDDING This recipe

is

typical of Valgrisenche.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 CPF. Grind the almonds in a mor6 oz. blanched

A cup

2

almonds

confectioners’ sugar

Ground cinnamon, to taste

CONTINUED

tar,

gradually adding the confectioners’ sugar and

2 cups lukewarm water from time to time.

mon

to this according to taste.

through cheesecloth.

Add

up

to

cinna-

Strain this mixture

Heat the butter

in a

pan and

toast

889

1

sticks (12 tbsp.) unsalted butter

/i

8 slices bread

the bread until golden. Arrange in a single layer in a bak-

ing pan. Pour the

with

ZUPPA

D

I

AREY

VALLE D'AOSTA

almond mixture over them, then dust

more cinnamon.

Bake for about 15 minutes.

WALNUT SOUP This recipe

is

typical of

Courmayeur. A variation consists

of adding a shot of liqueur at the last 1

large egg

4 cups milk 4 tbsp. red wine Zi

cup sugar

25 walnut halves, finely ground Vi

cinnamon

stick

Pinch grated nutmeg 3 oz. breadsticks Salt

moment

In a large copper

and sugar

pan beat together the egg,

until blended.

nutmeg, and

Add

Break the breadsticks

salt.

cook, stirring constandy with a the mixture begins to thicken

must never

boil),

wooden spoon.

and foam

like

literally

D

I

VINO

the Valle d’Aosta,

seupa frieda de

as

it’s

I'ano,

translates

as "donkey’s soup,” a reference to the pastoral tradition of rewarding a farm

animal’s particularly hard labors with black bread soaked called for people,

was made using

a traditional

in

red wine. "Wine soup,”

implement of the

Italian kitchen,

the copa-pan, a breadboard fitted with a blade, used to break up stale bread. To

make

the "wine soup,” half a loaf of stale black rye bread would be broken up on the copa-

pan and marinated

in

a large

bowl with about a cup of sugar and two cups of local

red wine for at least two hours.

890

and

When

zabaglione

remove the pan from the heat and

serve immediately while hot.

ZUPPETTA

in pieces

Put the pan over high heat and

incorporate them.

(it

milk, wine,

the walnuts, cinnamon,

LOCAL TRADITION

The name of this rustic recipe from

(grappa,

kirsch, rum).

2

CHOCOLATE CUSTARD ZUPPA INGLESE

1

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

1

TRIFLE A variation

of this recipe

in layers, in

4 cups milk Peel of

lemon,

1

in

strips

8 large egg yolks 1

Vz

4

oz. bitter 1

1-lb.

% cups

sugar

cup all-purpose flour chocolate,

chopped

sponge cake, sliced

in

is

made

with ladyfingers, arranged

place of the sponge cake.

Heat the milk and lemon peel

dium heat

until

in a

saucepan over me-

bubbles form around the edge of the

pan.

Remove the pan from the heat and

for

0 minutes, then divide in

1

half.

set aside to steep

Thoroughly combine

half the egg yolks with half the sugar

and half the

flour;

Heat

slowly add to this half of the milk infusion.

this

mixture over low heat, stirring constandy to avoid lumps,

3 horizontal rounds (see page 843)

until thickened. 1

%

Repeat with the remaining egg yolks,

cup alchermes

(see note, page 786)

cup rum, mixed with 2 tbsp. water

sugar, flour,

and milk

to

make another batch of

cream; mix in the chocolate and a

round of sponge cake on a

stir until

large plate

pastry

Put

smooth.

and brush gener-

ously with alchermes, then top with a layer of plain pastry

cream; follow with a round of sponge cake. Brush with the

rum mixture and top with chocolate

the remaining cake layer

Cool the zuppa

cream. Top with

and remaining plain cream.

in the refrigerator for at least half a

day

before serving.

ORANGE CUSTARD ZUPPA INGLESE LAZIO

TRIFLE This recipe

is

8

typical of

FOR PERSONS

Rome.

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Put each half of the sponge 1

sponge cake, cut in half page 843)

’/2 -lb.

cake on a plate.

Brush the alchermes liqueur over one

horizontally (see 14

cup alchermes (see page 786) 2 tbsp. rum, diluted with 2 tbsp. water

half,

and the rum mixture over the

it

should not be too thick but

chopped candied

finely

tbsp.

300°F. Spread 2 tablespoons of pastry

bottom of a round ovenproof 12-inch serving

cup sugar

cup all-purpose flour

chopped candied

fruit

in the

cream across the plate;

place on top of this the slice of sponge cake soaked in the alchermes slight

,

then spread with pastry cream, forming a

dome

in the center,

cake round soaked in rum.

whipped egg 3 large egg whites,

whipped Zz

Mix

Preheat the oven to

3 large egg yolks

2 cups milk 1

lightly runny.

fruit.

For the custard:

Vz Zi

Meanwhile

other.

prepare the pastry cream as in the recipe on page 843;

ula

and on top of

this place the

Cover the surface with the

whites, smoothing

them across with

and sprinkling with confectioners’

sugar.

a spat-

Transfer

to soft peaks

long enough to dry and lightly

to the

oven and bake

brown

the meringue. Serve cold.

it

cup confectioners’ sugar

891

CONVERSION CHARTS ALL CONVERSIONS ARE APPROXIMATE.

WEIGHT CONVERSIONS

LIQUID

CONVERSIONS

OVEN TEMPERATURES I

!

U.S.

1

Metric

U.S./U.K.

5 ml

Yi

oz

250

Gas Mark

I

|

°C

Yi

120

28 g

275

1

140

43 g

300

2

150

45 ml

2 oz

57 g

325

3

165

cup

60 ml

2Yi oz

71 g

350

4

cup

75 ml

3 oz

85 g

375

5

190

tbsp

90 ml

l/i oz

100 g

400

6

200

113 g

425

7

220

3 tbsp

H /}

Yi

cup + 2 tbsp

100 ml

4 oz

180

cup

120 ml

5oz

142 g

450

%cup

150 ml

6 oz

170 g

475

9

240

%

cup

180 ml

7 oz

200 g

500

10

260

cup + 2 tbsp

200 ml

8 oz

227 g

550

Broil

290

Yi

cup

240 ml

9 oz

255 g

cup + 2 tbsp

275 ml

10 oz

284 g

1

1

!4

cups

300 ml

II oz

312 g

1

V3

cups

325 ml

12 oz

340 g

1

'A

cups

350 ml

13 oz

1%cups

375 ml

14 oz

400 g

% cups

400 ml

15 oz

425 g

cups + 2 tbsp

450 ml

lb

454 g

1

%

14 g

|

oz

cup +

1

°F

oz

I

Ys

%

Metric

1

15 ml

30 ml

1

|

Yi

tbsp

2tbsp

1

1

tsp

I

2 cups

4 cups

pint)

475 ml

2 Yi cups

600 ml

(1

(1

3 cups

720 ml

quart)

945 ml (1,000 ml

1

=

1

8

230

368 g

liter)

893

0

1

INDEX

RECIPES

»/

BY REGION

ABRUZZO

BASILICATA

Pasta, polenta, rice

Baked cheese pie, 241 Baked layered crepes with artichoke, 409 Beef and vegetable pie, 410

Appetizers

Cheese and egg fritters, 50 Marinated squid, 26 Mussels au gratin, 21 Pickled fish 1, 77

Bucatini in mackerel sauce, 221

Polenta pie with sausage and

Cannarozzetti with ricotta and

raisins, 54 Squash-blossom sauce, 72-73

Commeal

Almond and

chocolate layer cake,

pasta with tomatoes,

Gnocchi with rabbit sauce, 252

Homemade pasta in pork sauce,

843-844

Almond

223-224

saffron,

271

Desserts

281

cake glazed with

chocolate,

Carnival ring cake, 778

Chieti cookies,

870

Maccheroni

alia

mulinara, 280

Pappardelle in duck sauce,

295-296

794

Pasta and fava beans, 305 Pasta stuffed with beef and sausage,

frittata,

Meat

380 chili

Truffle ravioli,

336-337

sauce, 511 1,

2,

636 649

Paliata (grilled calf’s intestines),

616 Pork stew, 610 Pork with onion sauce, 547 Sauteed kidneys on toast, 637

Skewered lamb, 518 Tacchino all canzanese (turkey), 657 Tripe in tomato sauce, 664-665 Tripe sausages, 599 Veal parmigiana with eggplant,

616

590

Pasta, polenta, rice

and beans, 230 con cime di cocozze, 229 meat sauce, 239 with anchovies and bread,

Cavatelli

Manatelle, 286

Pasta and white beans, 307 Pasta in mint, 388-389

Pasta with guanciale, 376 Pasta with turnip tops, 304-305 Ricotta calzoni, 223

402

Ricotta ravioli, 333

Bean and pasta soup, 197 Bean and pork soup, 197 Cardoons in broth 2, 1 10 Crepes

178 134-135

1,

Spinach-ricotta ravioli, 337

Soups

Bean soup with chicory and fennel,

in broth,

Farro soup

Le

offal),

Pasta with dried peppers, 282

ricotta ravioli,

Soups

Baked leg of lamb, 5 1 Baked mutton shank, 651 Goat with tomatoes and peppers, 532 Hare in sauce, 594 Hen galantine, 592 Lamb stew with cheese and egg

894

foil,

Spaghetti with guanciale, 380

Sweet

524

stew,

lamb Mutton pot, 624 (roasted

239

pepper, 280

1,

tomato sauce, 627

Pasta and chickpeas, 266

Spaghetti with garlic and

461

in

lamb

Ferretti

356-357

Grilled trout,

Mutton stew Mutton stew

Easter

Ferretti in

Risotto with trout and saffron,

Fish soup Pescara-style, 447

503 Mullet baked in parchment 499

Meat

Polenta and beans, 322

Spaghetti baked in

Anchovy

865 wafers, 780 “Bones of the dead” cookies, 822 Calzoncelli, 764 Chestnut calzoni, 764 Chocolate-stuffed eggs, 885-886 Semolina fritters, 796-797

Cavatelli

244

Pasta with beans, 373

Fish

84

biscotti,

Bucatini in tomato sauce, 275

Honey biscuits, 837 Jam-filled horseshoe cookies,

869 Milk fritters, 800 Semolina bread, 825 Sweet ravioli, 763 Walnut filled pizza, 842

tart,

Almond Almond

Involtini di interiora di agnello

Linguine with seafood, 273-274

Christmas spice cookies, 857 Ferratelle alio zafferano,

pasta with meat and

tomato, 278

Chestnut fudge, 770

Cheese Desserts

Chicken

Homemade

834

Appetizers

virtu (Virtues Soup), 185

127

Bean soup with mushrooms, 1 34 Beans and grain mush, 1 09

Pasta and prawns in broth, 184

Bread soup 5, 1 59 Chicory soup, 191

Potato and pasta soup, 143

Potato and celery soup, 168

Sausage soup, 193

Ricotta and egg soup, 97

Lentil

and

crostini soup,

200

Tiny square pasta and peas, 172 Vegetables

Abruzzo-style cardoons in sauce,

680 Baked omelet with pork and potatoes, 690 Braised turnips, 720 Drunken cauliflower, 683 Rustic torte with artichokes, 73

“Salted water” soup 2, 96

Shepherd’s bread soup, 161

White celery soup, 1 26 Wild herbs and meat soup, 153 Vegetables

Artichoke and fava bean stew,

682 Baked artichokes, 677 Baked eggplant, 699 Cardoons with egg 1 679 Cardoons with egg 2, 680 Eggplant boats, 697-698 ,

ALTO ADIGE. See TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE

1

Fava beans and chicory

2,

689

Insalata di lampascioni (rustic

muscari salad), 694

Lampascioni

fritti

(fried

muscari), 696

Lampascioni

in agrodolce (sweet-

and-sour muscari), 697 Patate lesse sfritte (fried boiled potatoes),

710

Potato and bean stew, 708 Potato timbale, 729

Vegetable stew, 68 1-682

Tripe with tomatoes and peppers,

Fish

Anchovy balls, 478 Anchovy roll-ups, 445 Baked anchovies, 428-429 Baked swordfish 1, 473 Baked swordfish 2, 476 Boiled tuna, 498 Cod and potato stew 2, 492 Cod with green olives, 466 Diamante-style grouper, 456-457 Fried fish, 477 Fried tope, 470 Mustica

CALABRIA Anchovy

fritters,

Bianchetti

34 35

fritters,

Bread rings and baked eggs, 9

Carne

’ncartarata (“aged meat”),

15 Filled focaccia,

Focaccia with

28 tuna,

oil,

and

Focaccia with

ricotta,

anemoni

anemone

di

fritters),

mare

(sea

35

Gelatina, 37

Mushroom meatballs, 66 Mushrooms with tomatoes, 37 Olive

lemon, and garlic sauce

oil,

1,74 Pan-cooked mushrooms, 48 Pizza con fiori di sambuco (pizza with elderberry flowers), 64 Pizza with anchovies and capers,

60 Pizza with artichokes and ricotta,

60-61

Almond Anise

cookies,

fritters

Baked

fig

792

with honey, 777

and nut calzone, 820

Braided cookies, 870

887-888 Cannoli shells, 766 Chickpea ravioli, 850 Christmas sweets, 792-793 Figs with chocolate, 793 Calabrian

fritters,

Honey cookies, 841 Honeyed gnocchi, 804-805 oil

nut cake, 842

799 Raisin cookies, 792 Ring breads with eggs, 775 Semolina bread with wine must and almonds, 857 Sesame nougat, 87 “Stairway to heaven” cookies, 854 Stuffed figs, 794 Potato

fritters,

Wine-must

cookies,

818

pasta with pork

308

Pasta with potatoes and eggs, 308

Pan-cooked pasta with pork, tomato, and red wine, 283 Pasta in anchovy sauce, 242 Pasta with beans and mushrooms,

283 Pasta with bottarga

1

,

303

Pasta with sardines, anchovies

473-474 475 Swordfish with capers and lemon, 475 Swordfish with mint, 474 Swordfish with olives and capers, 475 Tuna Calabria-style, 497 Tuna Cosenza-style, 497-498 Tuna Reggio-style, 498

and breadcrumbs, 304 315-316

Swordfish with capers

1,

Pasta with snails,

Swordfish with capers

2,

Polenta with salted green

tomatoes, 320 Polenta with salted pork, 319 “Priest caps,”

Rigatoni with sausage and

mushrooms, 338-339 Spaghetti with baby anchovies,

385 380-381

pomodoro, 502

Meat Capon with

Spaghetti with peppers, tomatoes, anchovies, 584

of boar), 551

stew,

225

Rice with fennel and ricotta, 348

Spaghetti with cuttlefish ink,

Ventricieddi di stocco al

and guanciale, 299 Stuffed lasagna, 269-270 Tagliatelle

and chickpeas with

dried peppers, 396

532-533, 648

Tagliatelle with broccoli,

396 394

Lamb tripe in tomato sauce,

Tagliatelle with wild fennel,

662-663 Larded leg of lamb, 564

Tagliatelle with zucchini, roasted

Leg of kid with oregano, 534-535

Vegetable timbale, 377

peppers, and tomatoes, 393

Ziti

Pan-fried sausages and broccoli,

with tuna sauce, 423

Soups

Asparagus soup, 192

641

Pork with potatoes and

Bean, cabbage, and potato soup,

156-157

mushrooms, 659 Sanguinaccio di capra (stuffed

Borage soup, 193

Chard

goat intestines), 643

in broth,

99

Sausage roll-ups, 592

Fava bean puree

Sausages and potatoes, 641-641

Onion soup with bread, 196

Shepherd’s-style pork, 540

Ricotta dumplings in broth, 171

1,

121

Skewered chicken gizzards, 650

Stuffed-bread soup, 202-203

Skewered pork liver, 575 Stewed boar, 551

Tagliatelle with chickpeas,

181-182

Stuffed kid, 536

Vegetable soup, 201

Sweet-and-sour meatballs

2,

Tripe and sweetbread stew,

648-649

Vanilla fritters, 821

mushrooms and

244

Swordfish in salmoriglio sauce,

Goat

Desserts

with

sauce,

Fried pork, 647

61

Olive

and onion, 280 olives,

Linguine with swordfish, 299-300

2,

Cinghiale d’aspromonte (saddle

Pizza with cracklings and raisins,

297 339

Calabrian-style pasta with lardo

Fusilli

Swordfish roll-ups, 472

29

Fried squash, 89

1,

2,

478 Pan-fried whitebait, 444 Pike croquettes, 460 Sole with peppers, 489 Steamed swordfish 1, 473 Stockfish with capers, 495 Stuffed gar fish or pike, 458 in

476

tomato, 29

Frittelle di

468 wine

rice

Baked pasta and potatoes, 307-308 Baked pasta with eggplant Baked pasta with eggplant Baked ravioli, 332

Homemade

di crucoli (sardine

spread),

Octopus

Appetizers

664 Pasta , polenta,

Tripe with

chili

628

Wedding soup 1,151 Wheat berry soup, 137 Wild onion soup, 189

peppers, 667

Zuppa

di pesce (fish soup),

202

895

1

Cooked wine

Vegetables

Beans and roasted dried peppers,

686 Braised broccoli with vinegar, 674

Calabrian peppers, 709 Calabrian “Purgatory” vegetable

sandwiches, 719 Crushed potatoes, 709 Eggplant and mint, 700 Eggplant and sausage, 700 Eggplant bites, 716 Eggplants and tomatoes, 701-702 Escarole with meatballs, 722 Fava beans in vinegar sauce, 688 Fried mushrooms, 691

Layered pie with artichokes, 731

Marinated

lettuce,

Melanzane

697

1

818-819 Eggplant with chocolate, 814-815 Filled cookies, 861-862 Fried pastries, 868 Lemon sorbet, 864 Limoncello, 810 Moiano biscotti, 755 Orange custard, 782 Orange mousse, 819 Raisin buns, 829 Semolina cake, 816 Spiced honey twists, 868-869 Wheat berry ricotta tart, 835-836 Yeasted fritters, 888 (saba),

Fish

Baked mullet, 500 Braised cod and potatoes,

440-441

sott’aceto (pickled

eggplant), 701

Eel with wild chicory, 435

’Ndugghia di Castrovillari (pork sausage), 705

Mullet baked in parchment

100-flavor eggplant, 701

459 Poached cod, 442-443 Salt cod fritters, 504 Sauteed clams, 483

Ovoli in fricassea

(mushroom

706 Potato and tomato fricassee),

casserole,

726

2,

500

Mussels au gratin with lemon,

690-691

1,

494

with salame and

filled

cheese, 242

Leftover pasta omelet, 244

Linguine with anchovies,

Linguine with mushrooms, 271 Linguine with walnuts, 271 dumplings, 294 Macaronara di Montemarano, 276 Macaroni au gratin, 278 Neapolitan lasagna, 268-269 Pasta and cheese pie, 412 Pasta and meat pie, 41 Pasta timbale, 378-379 Little stuffed

Pasta with anchovies and tuna,

Penne with tomatoes and 315

“Priest-chokers” with meat sauce,

390 374 375

Rice timbale

1,

Beef in pizza sauce, 539 Beef in sauce, 523 Boar country-style, 548

Rice timbale

2,

Budelline di agnello di faicchio

Spaghetti with clams, 386

525 Fried Neapolitan sausage and friarielli, 545-546

Stuffed dumplings, 293

Commeal fritters, 75

Kid

Tagliolini croquets,

Crostini with anchovies

and

provatura, 24

Fried bread puffs, 89

Layered pizza, 58

Meat

pizza,

64

Neapolitan pate, 55-56 Neapolitan pizza, 58 Pizza with escarole, 61-62

Rice

balls,

48-49

Seafood salad

1

,

(rolled

lamb

Spaghetti

and vinegar, 535 Lamb with egg and cheese, 514 Meat and artichokes, 541 Mutton ragu, 635 Neapolitan ragu, 539 Pork and pickled peppers, 606 Pork scraps and peppers, 605 in oil

Rabbit braised in the Ischia,

Roast

style

39-40

Stuffed eggs, 87-88

colatura (spaghetti

of

Spaghetti with fried eggs, 383 Spaghetti with garlic and

oil,

277

289-290

419 and seafood baked in 420 Vermicelli in garlic and oil, 420 Ziti with lardo, 283 Trilli

pasta in walnut sauce,

Vermicelli foil,

Soups Bean, escarole, and pork soup,

557

intestines,

alia

with colatura sauce), 384

intestines),

198

650-65

Sausages with broccoli rabe, 641

Stuffed brioche, 7-8

basil,

Peppers stuffed with pasta, 315

Baked calzone, 12-13 Baked polenta with turnips and sausages, 65-66 Baked truffles, 81 Bread with pork bits, 86 Caponata 1, 14

Fasting day (meatless) calzone, 13

olives,

and capers, 273 Linguine with lobster, 273

Sweet-and-sour cod stew, 504

Meat

Appetizers

ricotta,

236-237 Fioroni

Pasta with meat and onions, 279

Stewed octopus, 479 Stockfish and potatoes Stuffed squid, 499

fritters,

and

423

Sea bass stuffed with seafood, 490

Wild onion

Ditali with zucchini

Pasta with chickpeas, 231

Stuffed tomatoes, 717

CAMPANIA

230

Conglufi, 234

Pasta with cauliflower, 307

“Strange” vegetables, 732 Vegetable stew with celery, 682

Cavatelli with walnuts,

Stuffed veal spleen,

608-609

Veal tendon salad, 589 Pasta, polenta, rice

Cabbage and rice soup, 149 Cardoon soup, 193 Cardoons in broth 1,110 Chestnut and leek soup, 130 Fresh fava bean soup, 1 98 Minestra maritata 2 (wedding soup), 151

Apple tart, 777 Babas with rhum, 749-750 Blancmange, 752

Baked fusilli and orecchiette, 246 Baked gnocchi with fior di latte cheese and tomato sauce, 253-254 Baked polenta with sausage and ciccioli, 289 Baked seafood risotto, 243-244

Capri chocolate-almond cake, 872

Benevento-style lasagna with veal

Vegetable ragu, 172-173

Stuffed peppers, 53 Stuffed pizza, 63 Desserts

Almond

candy, 790-791

Carnival cookies, 774

Cassata from Naples, 768

Chestnut

balls,

288

822

Chestnut panzarottini, 832 Chocolate

896

parfaits,

meatballs and eggs, 267-268

Bucatini with cacipcavallo cheese,

782

fava bean soup, 195

Soupy Pasta with

1,

166

cauliflower

black olives, 164 St.

Lucy’s soup, 206

Vegetable Stew, 112

Zuppa

di soffritto,

206

Vegetables

Cannelloni with meat sauce, 224 Cauliflower

Onion and

Pasta and bean soup

ravioli,

337-338

Artichoke pizza, 714-715

Baked

escarole,

723

and

1

Beans in sauce, 727-728 Capri salad, 693 Eggplant Parmigiana 1, 704-705 Fried broccoli rabe, 704' Fried eggplant with tomato sauce,

699 Lardari with tomatoes, 696

Ring cake, 756-757 Savor, 855 Spice cake, 824 Stuffed peaches, 838 Tagliolini pie, 880 Zabaglione with rum, 886

Macaroni pie

224-225 Piacenza

Potato gnocchi Romagna-style,

Fish

Braised catfish

Eel with Savoy cabbage, 432

733-734 Oregano tomatoes, 716-717 Pepper roll-ups, 695

Fish soup Ravenna-style, 447

Peppers stuffed with eggplant,

488 Grilled sole 2, 489 Marinated eel, 434-435 Pike in tomato sauce, 464 Sauteed baby sardines, 482-483

710-711

713-714

Stuffed and baked escarole,

722-723

1,

257

471

Stuffed peppers Capri-style, 711

Grilled eel in grape leaves,

452

1,

Rice

Stewed

eel

with peas, 434 1,

Belecot (“already cooked” salame), 8

Flatbread with greens and sausage, 23

Fried bread, 38

Ricotta

Beef roll-ups, 669 Beef stew, 654-655

Sfoglia

(homemade

361

pasta),

396-397

Cappello da prete con zabaione,

Tagliatelle with

Tagliatelle with

herb sauce, 392

meat sauce, 392 Romagna-style meat sauce, 394

Tagliatelle with

Donkey

stew,

654

Tortelli filled with Swiss chard,

(mixed fry Bologna-style), 582

Horsemeat

stew,

624

415 Wild duck

risotto,

352

Soups

Hunter-style chicken 2, 626

Anolini with beef filling, 97

Mixed

Bean soup, 106

braised meats, 522

Pan-braised lamb, 545

Bread soup

Pan-fried beef and vegetables, 579

Cappelletti in broth,

Parma-style beef roast, 637-638

Chicken broth with grated pasta, 167

Parma-style beef stew, 652 Piacenza-style beef stew,

Pork

cutlets

vinegar,

652-653

with balsamic

644

Pork-liver skewers,

1,

158

Manfrigul pasta

Mushroom

balls, 1

23

soup, 199

Passatelli in broth,

573-574

108-109

163

Pasta and bean soup 3,

1

69

Roast guinea hen, 571

Pasta with beans, 179

Almond cake 2, 875 Almond shortbread, 778-779 Almond tart, 872

Romagna-style ragu, 634

Piacenza-style anolini, 98

Baked meringues, 865

Desserts

826-827 Chestnut dumplings, 816

Chestnut

fritters,

797

Chocolate custard

trifle,

Salama da sugo, 639

Rice with egg and cheese,

Spiced capon, 530

Risotto with eels, 176

603 Stuffed rabbit, 561-562 Stuffed veal breast, 632 Tripe alia Parmigiana, 664 Turkey breast with prosciutto and

Soup with bread dumplings

Stewed

Charterhouse-style sweet bread,

891

snails,

fontina, 621

Christmas bread, 827

Turkey-veal roulade, 629

Coffee tmd chocolate pie, 881

Veal bolognese, 567

Ferrara biscotti, 756

Fried dough knots, 863 Fruitcake 2, 864-865

Hazelnut

Jam

trifle,

ravioli,

Ladyfinger

789

848 trifle,

890

Laurel liqueur, 810

Lemon verbena liqueur, 811 Nocino (walnut liqueur), 823 Pumpkin bread, 827-828 Rice pudding cake, 879

377

397

Tagliatelle pie,

Fritto misto alia bolognese

Reggiano, 81

1,

Romagna-style meat sauce, 330

Tagliatelle,

Green-pepper sauce, 73-74

48 Mushrooms in broth, 36-37 Prosciutto mousse, 45 Spalla cotta di San Secondo (boiled pork salame), 79 Spinach pie, 26 Sweet-and-sour sauce Parma style, 70 Unleavened flatbread, 57 White truffles with Parmigiano-

363-364

Risotto with Parmigiano-

Beef with balsamic vinegar, 577 Boiled stuffed capon or hen, 522

Grape syrup, 69

di Carpi,

with sage sauce,

tortelli

416 Risotto with clams,

Cotechino “in prison,” 566-567

Horseradish sauce, 7

1,416

with squab, 220

Romagna-style polenta, 318

531

Fried Flatbread, 9

ravioli

Rice with squash, 343

Risotto with sausage

486

Meat

Appetizers

390

bombe

Reggiano, 355

Stuffed small cuttlefish

Mostarda

sauce,

Pumpkin

Fried catfish, 470-471

Grilled sole

“Priest-chokers” with salsify

Sole in wine, 489

EMILIA-ROMAGNA

414 256

1,

Potato gnocchi 2, 256

Marinated zucchini with mint,

Potato and cheese galette, 691

tortelli,

Potato gnocchi

Marinated squash, 733

Pickled peppers,

310-311

1,

Pasta stuffed with squash,

Pasta, polenta, rice

Baked polenta with meat sauce 2,325 Baked tagliolini, 217 Baked tortellini, 313 Capon with anolini and prosciutto sauce, 226 Garganelli with peas and prosciutto, 247 Green lasagna with meat sauce, 270

1

73

1,

124

Spinach soup, 207

Tiny pasta in bean broth, 169-170 Tortellini

bolognese in broth,

183-184 Vegetables

Eggplant braised with tomatoes,

700

FRIULI- VENEZIA GIULIA Appetizers

Eggs and mushrooms, 88 Fried sage leaves, 30 con le erbe (herb frittata),

Frittata

31 Frittata with whitebait, 31

Prosciutto di Sauris, 68

897

1

1

Salame d’oca (goose salame), 70 Spicy cheese spread, 80 Spider crab canapes, 38 Cheese

Cheese crisp, 739 Cheese crisp with potatoes, 739 Cheese sauce with potatoes and onions, 738-739 Frico (fried cheese disks), 739 Desserts

Almond

755 797-798

biscotti,

Apple fritters, Cherry strudel, 867 Christmas Eve cake, 881 Easter cake, 841 Easter focaccia, 795 Fried bread, 828

Seas and mountains

258

gnocchi, 805

Semolina pudding, 761

Fish

Anguilla infilzata (skewered eel),

436 sauce,

438 dough,

446 Sea bass in

salt,

446

Squillfish with garlic,

45

Stockfish with tomato sauce,

494 Trout baked in tomato sauce with polenta, 503

Meat Baked mallard, 586 Beef cheek with cumin, 588 Capon with lemon balm, 531 Chicken cudets with Montasio cheese, 620 Grilled kid, 535 Hunter’s-style hare, 593-594 Hunter’s-style marinated beef,

542-543 Jugged hare 3, 596-597 Pan-cooked pork cudets, 565

Pan-cooked

snails,

602

Pan-fried chicken giblets, 582 Prosciutto in bread dough, 63

Salame with vinegar, 639 San Quirino snails, 601 Smoked goose confit, 611 Smoked meat with polenta “sauce,” 621 Squab baked in potato, 621-622 Stewed pork, 541 Stewed roebuck offal, 578 Venison in sauce, 537

898

trifle,

891

Pizze di Pasqua (Easter pizzas),

846

Barley and potato soup, 155

Raisin

Barley and vegetable soup, 142

Rice

fritters,

797

fritters for St.

Ricotta crostata, 785 Ricotta tart, 768 Ring cake, 840

Beans with dumplings,

St.

1

14

“Burned broth,” 104 Com, bean, and potato soup, 137 Fish soup Marano-style, 101 Minestrone with

basil,

126

Montasio cheese soup, 138-139 Pasta and bean soup 2, 166 Pea soup, 143-144 Rice and potato soup 2, 146 Spinach-commeal soup, 161 Squash soup, 150 Toasted broth, 1 04 Tripe soup 2, 207-208 Turbot Grado-style, 103 Winter vegetable soup, 100 Zuppa di pane (bread soup), 200

Joseph’s

Scarsella,

Day

753-754

fritters,

859

Spiced wine, 847

Sweet buns, 8 1 2-8 1 Sweet ravioli with ricotta, 849-850 Tortoli (anise cake),

884

Walnut cookies, 817 Yellow cake with

fruit,

831

Fish

Anchovies with endive, 429 Batter-dipped whitebait, 444

Bolsena eels in the Bisentina,

Cod

style

of

430

with tomatoes, raisins, and

pine nuts, 442 Crayfish soup, 504-505 Eels Labrese-style, 431

Vegetables

Brovada (turnips marinated in wine pressings), 721 Caramelized turnips, 720 Field greens in butter, 685 Pan-fried greens, 732 Pan-fried potatoes, 709 Potato lunettes (crescents), 696 Sweet-and-sour braised cabbage,

676 Wild greens with

Joseph’s Day,

799

Bean soup with musetto, 133

Grated pasta with broth, 167

shellfish in

pear gelatin), 803

Honey almond cookies, 854 Honey doughnuts, 775-776 Honey fritters, 778 Honey squares, 868 Orange custard

turnips, 134

847

Wine doughnuts, 775

Sea bass and

Gelatine di fichi d’India (prickly

Soups

Bean soup 1, 131 Bean soup with fermented

761

Rose pudding, 762

Cod in

risotto,

369-370 Stuffed gnocchi in cheese sauce, Stuffed potato gnocchi, 250-25

784-785

844 804

raisin cake,

raisin cookies,

771

Hazelnut cookies, 885

Risotto with campion, 360-361

806

Triestine yeast cake,

811-812

Commeal and Fritters,

with spinach, 372-373

23

Christmas macaroni with walnuts,

Pasta and prosciutto pie, 312 roll

fritters,

Baked sweet ravioli, 848 Boiled and baked cookies, 776

Cornmeal

342

Palatschinken with preserves,

1,

Ring-shaped

Anise ring cookies, 776

Rice with crabs and razor clams,

Griddle cakes, 864

Plum

Rice croquettes, 80-81

Desserts

Medieval gnocchi, 261

Fried bread with bulide, 828

Rice pudding

Pizza with turnip greens, 60

Buckwheat pasta with toasted commeal, 219-220 Butternut-squash gnocchi 2, 259 Half-moon pasta with potato filling, 214 Half-moon pasta with ricotta and prune filling, 213 Handcut pasta with cheese and sage sauce, 372

Pasta

Fried small dumplings, 868 Friulian yeast cake,

3

1

Pasta, polenta, rice

lardo,

719-720

Fried cod

Marinated

Octopus

Appetizers

460-461

430 452 wine 1, 478 eels,

eel,

in

Meat Abbuoto, 511

Beef rolls Roman-style, 590 Beef stew with celery, 655 Beef stew with cloves, 584-585 BoarViterbo-style, 548

The “fifth

LAZIO

fillets,

Hunter-style

quarter” beef stew,

653-654 Hunter-style suckling lamb, 508

Baked dumplings with sausage and cheese, 10

Lamb

Bruschetta, 8

Oxtail stew,

Ciarla (pizza dough), 18

Pork with potatoes and fennel,

Fried mozzarella sandwich, 46

Meat jerky, 21

intestines Viterbo-style,

525-526 552-553

553 Rabbit in broth, 554

3

1

6

“Cooked water” soup with wild

Rabbit with wild fennel, 555

Roast suckling lamb with potatoes,

5

,

Cheese

Focaccia with cheese, 740

herbs, 93

508

Escarole soup, 147

Desserts

Farro Porridge, 114-115

Anise cookies, 748

Sausages and broccoli, 640-641

Fava bean soup, 190

Scannature d’abbacchio in

Italian

egg-drop soup, 180-181

Lamb

soup, 189-190

Baked amaretto peaches, 838 Coffee ice cream, 828-829 Floating islands, 860 Fried custard squares, 810

John’s snails, 601

St.

padella (cooked lamb’s blood),

Sweet-and-sour boar, 549—550

Maremma-style “Cooked water” soup 1, 95 Pasta and chickpea soup 1, 164-165

Testatelle d’abbacchio in teglia

Pasta with beans, 119

645 Stewed suckling lamb Romanstyle, 508-509

(lambs’ heads), 660

Polenta and beans,

1

Spring vegetable stew, Tagliolini with

ravioli,

333

Bucatini with guanciale, hot

pepper, and tomato, 22 Fettuccine “Alfredo,” 240

754

Sweet bread with

fruits

and nuts,

825-826

85

1

Fish

gullets,

182-183 Tench and tagliolini soup 1, 148 Tiny dumplings in broth, 1 1 Tiny square pasta and fava beans,

Pasta, polenta, rice

Baked meat

pork

biscotti,

Sugar cookies, 765

70

Skate soup with pasta, 127-128

Veal cutlets with prosciutto and

642

Genoa

Meringues, 815 Quaresimali (Lenten cookies), 849

Tripe Roman-style, 666

sage,

Fried knots, 801

Boiled stockfish with potatoes,

493 Fish stew, 448 Fried stuffed anchovies, 427

Marinated anchovies, 427

171

Fettuccine with meat sauce, 331

Turnip and bean soup, 190-191

Mariner’s stockfish, 493

Fettuccine with ricotta, 240

Zuppa

Seafood and vegetable

Homemade and

pasta with tomatoes

garlic, 3

di pesce di lago (lake fish

soup), 204 Vegetables

1

Pasta “snakes” with sausage, 423

Beans and grains, 686

Penne with hot chiles, and tomato, 314

Carote di Viterbo in bagno

prosciutto,

aromatico (Viterbo carrots),

Pizziconi (dumplings in tomato

317 Polenta with pork and turnips, 322 Polenta with pork loin, 320 Polenta with pork sauce, 320-321 Rice-stuffed tomatoes 1, 327-328 Rice-stuffed tomatoes 2, 328-329 sauce),

Rigatoni con

la pagliata (rigatoni

with calf intestines), 338

683 Chicory

galette,

692

,

Fava beans and guanciale

1,

Fava beans and guanciale

2,

687

687-688

677-678

Misticanza (wild salad), 703 Puntarelle salad with anchovy dressing,

717-718

Roman-style artichokes, 678-679 Strigoli (bladder

Spaghetti with garlic, olive

campion), 729

Stuffed and braised escarole, 722

and capers, 384 Spaghetti with Carbonara Sauce, 382-383 oil,

and hot pepper, 379 Spaghetti with guanciale and chile

pepper, 383

382

Vine-roasted artichokes, 678

LIGURIA Appetizers

Bormida sauce, 72 Caponata 3, 1 Chickpea crepe, 26-27 Chickpea-flour

fritters,

Pasta, polenta, rice

Baked

rice and meat, 341 ravioli, 335-336 Genoese meat sauce, 413 Genoese rice, 341-342 Griddled pasta, 403-404 Herb-stuffed pasta, 292-293 Le trofie Recchesi, 420

Fish

Maltagliati with artichoke sauce,

329 35

Chickpea polenta, 53

Spaghetti with pecorino and

Cialde (fried wafers), 17

pepper, 384 Thick pasta with tomato ragu, 274 Tiella de Gaeta, 406 Timbale all Bonifacio VIII, 410

Focaccia with

Soups

Easter

tart,

85

Focaccia, 28

laziale, 94 Bathed bread, 98-99

olives,

Meatless

334-335

28-29

sauce,

216

Rice with meat sauce, 347

Fried potato dumplings, 43

Riso co-i fide (rice with sea

Pissaladiere,

ravioli,

6-7

57-58

anemones), 342 Trenette with pesto sauce,

418-419

Potato salad with anchovies, olives,

1

ravioli 1,

Mixed meat ravioli, 33 1-332 Mushroom sauce, 412 Pasta “crosses,” 233-234 Potato dumplings with mushroom

Fried milk, 42-43

Fried squash

Acquacotta

194

578-579 San Remo rabbit, 559 Stewed rabbit, 558 Veal roll-ups, 660 Veal stewed in wine, 669

Chickpea Flatbread, 27

Spaghetti with guanciale sauce,

Bean and wild fennel soup, 196-197 Cardoon soup, 128-129 Chestnut and chickpea soup

Lamb and artichoke fricassee,

Marinated zucchini, 735

Rome-style potato gnocchi,

257-258

Meal Goat and beans, 533-534

Jewish-style artichokes,

Roman-style gnocchi, 253

Spaghetti with anchovies, olives,

platter,

453 Soused bream, 445 Stewed cuttlefish 1, 484 Stockfish and potato stew, 491 Stockfish with potatoes and onions, 495 Stuffed cuttlefish 1 485 Whitebait frittata, 461

and tomato, 20

Soups

Small focaccias with tomato

Anchovy soup, 99

sauce, 78 Walnut sauce, 73

Black kale and rice soup, 200

Zeaia (meat gelatin), 86

Chickpea and bean soup, 124-125

899

4

1

Chickpea stew, 186 Christmas macaroni, 121 Fish soup with herbs, 1 13 Lettuce

120

rolls,

Rice and wild herbs, 174

Tripe soup, 177 Whitebait soup, 136-137 Vegetables

Artichoke and cheese casserole,

724 Scrambled eggs with artichokes, 692 Spinach Genoa-style, 727 Stuffed zucchini, 735 fritters,

689

Vegetable stuffing, 733

alia

Alborelle or sardine salate, 3

Aspic, 5 fritters,

ffittata,

78-79

salad), 41

Mortadella di fegato, 49

Pork roll-ups, 41—42 frittata,

in butter

cake

1,

cake

3,

874 876

Risotto with beans, 360 Risotto with bladder

Beef in sauce, 606

stew,

snails,

604

653

Goose ragu, 635 Goose with cabbage, 611 Guinea hen with mascarpone, 570 2, 596

Jugged hare

Mushrooms

with loin and

Oven-roasted venison, 563

619-620

Pheasant in Spanish sauce, 568 Pheasant or guinea hen in sauce,

soup), 146

Pork stew, 656 Rabbit Roulade, 629

Sauteed frogs, 636

Stracotto di pecora (lamb stew),

Custard, 772 cocktail,

Layered sponge cake, 790 Mascarpone cake with Marsala, 814 Mascarpone cream, 783-784 Nuns’ fritters for Carnival, 795 Panettone, 829-830 Paradise cake, 882 Pear cake, 874 Sweet commeal bread, 825 Torta di farina gialla (commeal cake), 876

900

655 Stuffed hen Cremona-style, 583

Veal

85

Fruitcake 3, 815

rump

in aspic,

2,

124

Chocolate salame, 853

753 883

Rice and egg soup, 127

Soup with shaved pasta 1, 142 Soup with shaved pasta 2, 143 Tripe and Bean Stew, 115

Roast saddle of venison, 646

uccelli (polenta and birds), 650 Stewed beef Milan-style, 607 Stewed snails with herbs, 603-604

cake,

Bread soup, 142 Bread soup 2, 158 Cheese and onion bread in broth, 160 Chestnut mash 1, 122 Chicken and pasta soup, 154

Soup of the dead, 128 Soup with bread dumplings

Day, 605

Spiedo bresciano or polenta e

fruitcake,

417

Soups

Minestra di sondalo (elderberry

from Prosto, 755 Boiled chestnuts, 770 Butter cake, 855 Chestnuts with cream, 762-763

Crumbly almond

227

Tortelli Cremasco-style,

Barley soup 4, 140-141

Barbajada, 750

Egg

Sausage-filled pasta with butter

sauce,

Lesso misto (boiled meats), 599 Milk-roasted veal, 519

Pork and chickpeas for All Soul’s

Biscotti

Commeal

355-356 Risotto with salame and onion, 366 Risotto with sausage 2, 366-367 Risotto with squash and beans, 363 Rough-cut pasta with beans, 285 Saffron risotto with mushrooms, 354 Risotto with salame,

Breaded veal chops, 565-566 Christmas turkey, 658 Cremona-style

campion and

onion, 359

Braised beef, 606

Pork and cabbage stew, 543

Apple and pear cake, 877 Apple charlotte, 773-77 Apple fritters with Moscato wine, 798 Apple pancakes, 833

417

Rice and turnips, 346

569

Desserts

ravioli 2,

Rice and asparagus, 343-344

Meat

Partridges and polenta,

Crushed potatoes and beans with cheese, 744

and sage sauce,

387-388

Pumpkin

Pan-fried pork, 581

Cheese

polenta,

leg risotto,

frigolada,

“Priest stranglers” green gnocchi

sausage, 546

30-31

Squash cake, 85

Almond Almond

La

Leftover meatballs, 628-629

32

Insalata di nervetti (tendon

Sausage

326 352-353 245 Pasta with mascarpone, 298 Frog

Foie gras, 643

Appetizers

Hops

Country-style risotto, 355

navett (shad “boat-

429 Pike in anchovy sauce, 465 Pike-perch in shrimp and mushroom sauce, 477 Shad in green sauce, 428 Soused fish, 476-477 Soused shad, 428 Stewed eel, 433 Whitefish in white wine, 463

Donkey

LOMBARDIA

Buckwheat

757

“Drowned”

Agoni

style”),

Minestrone with pesto, 155 Mussel soup, 201

Vegetable

Vanilla ring take,

Fish

575

Vegetables

Asparagus with

fried eggs,

672

Beans and pork, 686 Eggplant

balls,

Eggplant

pie,

715 730

Mostarda mantovana, 704 Spiced cabbage with egg, 714 Sweet-and-sour onions, 684

Veal shanks Milan-style, 613

MARCHE

Pasta, polenta, rice

Baked crepes with bread and cheese filling, 287 Baked polenta with meat sauce 324-325

Appetizers

Fried baccala 1,

Bergamo-style stuffed pasta,

227-228 Black polenta, 324

228 Buckwheat and cornmeal polenta taragna with cheese, 325-326 Brescia-style stuffed pasta,

Buckwheat pasta with cabbage, 318

balls,

66

Stuffed olives, 46-47

Cheese

Cheese

rolls,

742

Desserts

860 Baked apple pastry, 784 Baked rice pudding with chocolate, 757-758 Custard tart, 809 Fruitcake with nuts, 800-801 Anisette

fritters,

1

163-164

Passatelli in fish broth,

Fish

Clams Meat

in parsley

and wine, 503

Baked game, 639-640 Beef medallions, 608 Chicken with onion and tomato sauce, 627 Duck with olives, 615 Fried lamb offal, 580 Goose with fennel, 612 Hunter-style lamb, 510 Lamb stew with eggs, 642

Mixed

Quail with peas, 633

Roast pigeon with black

Vermicelli with eel sauce,

Cauliflower and olives, 681

Whole wheat

Fava beans and anchovies, 688

Melanzane

MOLISE Calcioni (fried dumplings with

Veal tripe in tomato sauce, 663 Pasta, polenta, rice

Baked polenta and sausage, 327 215 Gnocchi with duck sauce, 254 Green rice, 348 Marche-style lasagna, 422 Mariner’s spaghetti, 386 Pappardelle with quail and fennel, 296 Pasta with black olives and mushrooms, 376 rice,

Pasta with Campofilone-style

meat sauce, 277 Pasta with white mullet, 281-282

Shrimp

risotto

flowers,

with zucchini

369

Spaghetti with black truffle, 381

baby squid, 395 395 Tagliolini with black truffle, 399 Tagliolini with squid and shrimp, 399-400 Thin tagliatelle with squid and shrimp, 398 Tagliatelle with

Tagliatelle with beans,

Soups

Anchovy and

cauliflower stew, 103

Chickpea soup, 130 Farro soup

2,

and cheese),

1

14

24-25

Pickled fish 2, 77

62

vegetables),

170

Stuffed mussels, 22

Vegetables

Braised broccoli, 673

Cheese Fried ricotta, 742-743 Pallotte (cheese

and sausage

PIEMONTE

Desserts

Almond nougat

2,

870-871

Appetizers

Cherry marmalade cookies, 772-773

Anchovies

Nut

Bagna caoda, 6

crescents,

779

Pesche di Castelbottaccio (“stuffed peaches”),

839

Cod in wine, 437 Marinated

skate,

Beef roll-ups with tuna sauce, 42 Breadsticks, 38

Caesar’s

480

tomato sauce, 2

in

Asparagus with Gorgonzola, 5

Buckwheat

Fish

flatbread,

69

mushrooms with

Duck terrine, 82

Stewed octopus “in Purgatory,” 479

Fried eggs in sauce, 87

Stuffed squid

1,

450

Meat

Cavatelli with eggs

and pancetta,

230-231

Fish soup Ancona-style, 100-101

Fusilli alia

Fish soup Fano-style, 102

Pasta squares with John Dory, 391

Fish soup from Porto Recanati,

Pasta squares with meat sauce,

molisana, 245

391 Pasta with beans, 284 St.

Marinated

trout,

87

Meatless stuffed onions, 18-19

Mushroom and Onions

in the

truffle salad,

39

Piedmontese

tradition, 19

Onions stuffed with meat, 18 Pan-cooked peppers, 56 Rabbit and pork pate, 55 Rice salad with anchovies, 41

Salame Stewed

33

frittata 1,

frittata strips,

86

Stuffed zucchini blossoms, 27

Vegetable pie, 54

Winemaker-style

snails,

44

Cheese

Pasta, polenta, rice

102-103

for boiled meat, 5

Insalata di gallina cotta nel fieno

(hen cooked in hay), 40

Baked lamb with egg and cheese, 511-512 Baked mutton, 609 Goat in sauce, 532 Lamb and peas, 513 Lamb stew, 647 Lamb with hops, 514 Lamb with olives, 512 Liver and escarole, 574 Molise-style ragu, 635-636 Pezzata, 622 Roast pork, 615 Stuffed tripe, 610 Tripe with potatoes, 661-662

135

Gorgonzola-stuffed celery, 79

Green sauce

Stuffed mullet, 501

truffles,

47

Sea bass with tomato, 490

Corn Pone with turnips, 317

soup, 93

Scrambled eggs with peppers, 672 Spicy stuffed peppers, 710

dumplings), 741

Farro with zucchini flowers, 115

Marche-style “cooked water”

Pasta water pick-me-up, 177

Pesce fuiute (“fake fish” soup),

39

salad,

Baked pasta with hen and broth, 176-177 Bread soup with bay leaf, 160 Cardoon and meatball soup, 105 Cheese balls in broth, 157-158 Farro soup 3, 135 Fish and vegetable soup, 106 Fish soup Termoli-style, 1 04 Pappone di tornola (“Fisherman’s Dinner”), 162

Pizza di verdure (pizza with

Bucatini with mullet sauce, 221

Duck with

2,

Crostini with mussels,

Pork

387 Soups

Appetizers

prosciutto

42

spaghetti with

anchovies and breadcrumbs,

sott’olio (pickled

eggplant), 702

Potato and truffle gratin, 708

Oranges with anchovies, 3 olives,

623 Roast stuffed rabbit with fennel, 562 Roast suckling pig, 630 Roast young lamb, 544 Snails with fennel, 602 Squab stuffed with meat, 623 Tripe in sauce, 662 Veal casserole with tomato and cheese, 617 Veal stew, 668-669

415

Braised cardoon, 692

Caponata

Pan-roasted chicken, 625

Torcinelli (stuffed lamb’s intestines),

Vegetables

fry Ascolo-Piceno-style,

582-583

1

Joseph’s lunch, 328

Fondue with white

truffles,

738

Marinated tomini, 744-745 Ricotta mantecata con cialde

(marinated ricotta), 742 Desserts

Amaretti pudding, 762

Blancmange with fritters,

756 765

amaretti,

Canestrelli of Piemonte,

Carnival

994

901

1

,

Chestnut “mountain,” 816-817 Chocolate, 808

Stuffed duck with veal and pork,

Risotto with saffron

517

Cornmeal sponge

cake,

845

flowers,

Stuffed pork spleen, 609

Crescent cookies, 787

Stuffed zucchini flowers, 529-530

Focaccia with ricotta, 794-795

Sweet-and-sour meatballs

Hazelnut cake, 878

Risotto with Spumante, fontina,

Tripe and beans, 667

and mushrooms, 357

Pear cake, 823

Tripe in spiced tomato sauce, 666 Veal hock, 585

Pear pie, 773

Veal shank with Barolo wine,

Plum cake, 880 Pumpkin cake, 791

651-652

porcini,

Veal stew, 649

Tagliatelle in

Ricotta cheesecake,

785-786

Rum fritters, 758 Spiced shortbread, 758 Tredici erbe (“thirteen herb

887 Ugly but good macaroons, 759 Vanilla panna cotta, 832 Zabaglione, 886 liqueur”),

Fish

426-427

Cod and

492 Pike-perch in cream, 47 1-472 Tuna roll, 480 potato stew

1,

Meat Baked lamb and potatoes, 513 Beef braised in Barolo, 524 Boar with forest berries, 547-548 Chicken and ricotta croquettes, 567 Cima (stuffed calf’s breast), 549 Country-style liver, 574 Donkey and cabbage stew, 658 Finanziera

all

piedmontese

(braised beef),

Friceu

’d

sangh

fritters),

Goose

blood

tre arrosti (agnolotti with three

626 Hunter-style partridges, 619 Jugged hare 1, 595 Kid in wine, 535 Leg of lamb with chestnuts, 563-564 Meat braised with cabbage, 525 Mixed fry Alba-style, 580 Pheasant with truffles, 569-570 Pork shanks, 613 Rabbit Asti-style, 556 Rabbit in red wine, 556 Rabbit with pepper sauce, 561 Rabbit with peppers, 560 Roast capon, 528-529 Sausage frittata, 579 Stewed pork, 638 Stewed rabbit with potato, 557-558 Stuffed cabbage, 529 Stuffed duck, 516 Hunter-style chicken

1,

Taglierini in

egg sauce, 397-398 401 meat sauce, 400

Soups

213 duck 1,218 Brusarol, 222 Buckwheat porridge, 376

Barley soup, 202

Bean and chestnut soup, 1 06 Bean and rice soup, 107 Bean soup 2, 132

Fondue-stuffed pasta with veal

Bread soup

roasts),

broth,

267

419 Frog risotto, 365 Gnocchi in meat sauce, 252-253 Half-Moon Pasta with meat-andspinach filling, 212 Half-Moon Pasta with Spinach and Ricotta Filling, 214-215

Homemade leeks,

rough-cut pasta with

285

Pasta stuffed with sweetbreads

and borage, 285-286 Pasta with potatoes and pancetta,

309

3,

1

59

Cabbage and cheese soup, 1 80 Cabbage and pork-rind soup, 149 Cardoon and Jerusalem artichoke soup, 129

Chestnut mash

122-123

2,

Chickpea and pork soup, Chickpea soup, 112

Cream of zucchini

1

56

soup, 113

Leek and chestnut soup, 144 Lentil soup, 138

Minestra di riso

(rice soup),

144

Onion soup, 195 Pasta and bean soup, 180 Pork and beans, 114 Potato and leek soup, 203 Rice, beans, milk,

and salame, 175

Polenta with leeks, 319-320

Rice and chestnut soup, 206

Polenta with spring greens,

Rice and pansies, 174 Rice soup with squash, 145

Polenta with white beans and

cabbage, 319

confit contadina-style,

248-249

Bigoli with

326-327

577

(pig’s

581

611

902

ai

Fried small gnocchi, 249-250

Anchovies in red sauce, 426

Saffron risotto souffle, 351

Tagliatelle with truffle,

Fontina gnocchi with sage cream,

Anchovies in green sauce,

Risotto with tench, 362

Small gnocchi with ricotta and

Pasta, polenta, rice

Agnolotti gobbi astigiani-Albesi

Torta novecento (1900 cake), 883

and rum,

356 Risotto with snails, 363

1

627-628

Peach and amaretti semifreddo, 861

and zucchini

358

Risotto with sausage

Rice with milk and chestnuts, 174 Tagliatelle

and chestnut soup, 147

Pumpkin-potato gnocchi, 254 Rice and mushrooms, 348

Tagliatelle with chicken livers,

Rice with beans, 292

Trippa del “Vecchio Salera,” 182

Rice with beans, cabbage, and

Vegetable soup, 157

pork, 292

1

25

Tripe soup, 107

Walnut soup, 139

Rice with beans, cabbage, and salame, 291

Wedding soup

3,

152

Vegetables

728-729

Rice with cheese sauce, 347

Artichoke

Rice with smoked cheese, 378

Baked artichokes with egg sauce, 677 Cardoons with truffles, 679

Risotto with baked sole, shrimp,

and hollandaise, 370 Risotto with Barbera, 349-350 Risotto with Barolo,

350

flan,

Cipolline d’lvrea (Ivrea onions),

684 734

Risotto with cream of leek, 353

Marinated zucchini

Risotto with fennel, 349

Potato

Risotto with freshwater prawns,

Ratatouille Piedmont-style, 72

358-359

balls,

strips,

685

Risotto with giblets, 365

Salam ad 723

Risotto with Gorgonzola, 350

Sauteed zucchini, 734-735

Risotto with

mushrooms, 349 and zucchini

Risotto with perch flowers,

358

Risotto with red wine, 352

patati (potato salami),

Stuffed onions, 727 Stuffed peppers with tuna,

712 Truffled potatoes, 707

1

21

1

PUGLIA

1

rice with mussels and potatoes, 404 Baked rice with seafood, 406 Baked seafood linguine, 272 Bread balls in tomato sauce, 327 Buckwheat Pasta with Zucchini, 389 Capunti with lamb sauce, 226-227 Chicory timbale, 407

Baked

Appetizers

Bread with

olives, 5

Carnival calzone,

1

Olio santo (peppered olive

oil),

50 Olive and ricotta calzones, 11-12' Olive bread, 67

Pizza with potatoes and olives,

64-65 Spicy tomato sauce, 80

Fettuccine with white fava beans,

Stuffed pizza, 76

Fillings for tiellas,

340-341

Large tomato and mozzarella

“Gendarme

740-47 Smoked scamorza salad with mushrooms, 743

225-226 Lasagne in meat sauce, 373

ravioli,

Almond spaghetti, 809 Almond tart with chocolate

glaze,

751 Apostles’ fingers (ricotta-stuffed crepes),

788-789

Cherry-almond tart, 873 Glazed sweet rolls, 748 Grape jam, 813-814

754 Orange marmalade, 813 Ricotta pie, 843 Sweet Easter bread, 856 Wheat-berry pudding 2, 805 Wine pinwheels, 767 Home-style

biscotti,

Linguine with cuttlefish ragu, 272

Long-cooked pasta with stew and broth, 279-280 Macaroni with arugula, 276 Mignuic or cavatielli, 288 Orecchiette with artichokes, 290 Orecchiette with ricotta, 291 Orecchiette with turnip tops, 290 Panzerotti,

295

baked in foil, 455 Fish cooked in salt, 469 Cuttlefish

Grilled cod,

438

459 Puglia-style mussels, 458 Stuffed cuttlefish 2, 485-486 Stuffed mussels, 459 Stuffed sardines 2, 482 Stuffed squid 2, 450 Sweet-and-sour mussels, 457 gratin,

Meat

231-232

al

ragu

di

polpo (thick-

cut pasta with octopus sauce),

Soups

Baked lasagna with broth, 1 20 Bean soup 5, 196 Bread soup with arugula and

Cavatelli with arugula

Marro, 607

Chickpea puree with shrimp and

fafe,

109

and

potatoes, 111

Fava, broccoli, and chicory soup,

560 Salame 640

Pasta and chickpea soup 2, 165

Baked

rice Foggia-style,

Fava bean soup, 118

di

di lampascioni

con

salsa

sedano (timbales of muscari

and potato

726 Stuffed eggplants, 702 Stuffed peppers, 712-713 Vegetables and pancetta, 732 flan),

SARDEGNA Appetizers

Music-paper-bread salad, 52

Onion

pizzas, 2

798 833-834 749 Sweet cheese pastries, 861 fritters,

Pasta and

Sardinian orange

lentil

Peasant soup,

slices,

Boiled lobster, 436-437

and trout 435

Eels

in a spicy sauce,

Fish in walnut sauce, 448 Fish soup, 455

Mullet with Vernaccia, 501

Roast striped mullet, 455-456

Sea bass

in

wine sauce, 490

Meat

Beef roll-ups, 553 Braised pork ribs, 625

Chicken-stuffed turkey, 618

roll-ups,

sauce, 515

592

Myrtle-scented hen, 63

Sardegnan stewed tripe, 66 Sausage and fava bean stew, 573 Pasta, polenta, rice

broth, 391

soup, 167

262 2, 263 Music-paper bread with poached

Meat pastries eggs, 291

Sardinian-style pasta stuffed with

potato and mint, 235-236

1 1

Tomato soup, 1 56

(or vegetable or fish)

pastries 1,

Fish soup Brindisi-style, 205

“Salted water” soup

404-405

sott’olio (pickled

tomatoes), 718

Sformato

Meat

191

Pastina in fish sauce, 168

Pasta, polenta, rice

1,

Baked bread and cheese with

clams, 162

in lamb sauce, 538 Mutton stew with potatoes, 656 Rabbit and onions, 559-560 Rabbit with peppers and olives,

(lamb sausage),

Pomodori

Meat

Lamb and potatoes, 512 Lamb stew, 568

di agnello

705-706

Fava puree, 718-719

Lamb with white

potatoes, 160

Cannelicchje e

Stuffed sheep tripe, 632-633

2,

688-689

Bean stew with beef and ham, 598 Beef pot roast, 587

418 Ziti and meatballs, 309

Easter lamb, 513

Mushrooms

680

Fish

Callariedde, 107

Meatballs, 632

gratinee,

Fava beans and chicory

Ricotta-stuffed cookies,

Pasta with chickpeas and onion,

Mackerel in vinegar, 488 Mussels au

Cardoons

Eggplant Parmigiana

Pane carasau

306 Pasta with broccoli 3, 302

Troccoli

444

(fish

205

Pasta with breaded tomatoes,

Herb-stuffed gilthead bream, 469

whitebait,

Gallipoli-style),

Nut and raisin candy, 833

Halibut and seafood stew, 457

Baked

soup Vegetables

Pasta asciutta alia pugliese, 301

405—406 Potato-mushroom gratin, 405 Puglian meat sauce, 329-330 St. Joseph’s pasta, 266 Sardine and artichoke casserole, 418

Angler in tomato sauce, 479

199

Desserts

Potato and vegetable gratin,

Fish

barley,

Wedding soup 4, 152 Zuppa di pesce gallipolina

hat” pasta pie,

Linguine with razor clams, 272

Desserts

Vegetable soup with squash and

Peas with sauteed bread, 703

238

Cheese

1

1

,

96

Sardinian-style stuffed pasta with

spinach, 235

903

11

1

1

Small Sardinian gnocchi with

meat sauce, 284

parsley,

Beef broth with barley soup, 125

1

50

Squash puree, 719 Steamed artichokes, 674

Appetizers

Almond-and-anchovy sauce, 75 Bread and tomato salad, 5 52

Fried cheese, 9

Green sauce, 74 Meat pie with elderberry, 83 Mixed fried vegetables, 36 Olive oil, lemon, and garlic sauce 2, 74-75 Pasta and fava-bean cubes, 44 Prosciutto and cheese fritters, 68 Rice balls with meat and peas, 4 Ricotta and sausage dumplings, 82 Rolled pizza, 59

Sausage timbale, 82-83 Seafood rice balls, 3-4

59

Sicilian pizza 2,

65

Snails with picchi pacchi sauce,

16 Desserts

Almond and cookies,

fig-filled

Almond

Christmas

788

Almond-chocolate paste,

tartlets,

853

834-835 802-803 768-769

Blood-orange

gelatin,

Cassata from

Sicilia,

Christmas nougat, 87 Christmas ring cookies, 840

Cream

baskets, 83

765-766 Glazed S cookies, 869 Lemon pudding, 760 Mandarin gelatin, 804 Filled cannoli,

Marzipan-filled cookies, 769-770

Orange

cake, 872 balls, 822 Quince paste, 780-781 Rice pudding 2, 85 Ricotta cheesecake, 800 Watermelon ice, 803 Wheat-berry pudding 1, 787

Orange-peel

Fish

Baked anchovies, 466 Baked fresh tuna, 460 Cod in sauce, 437

904

456

299

Pasta with fried broccoli,

salate (salted sardines),

302-303 Pasta with fried eggplants, 300

482

Pasta with sardines

305-306

1,

Sardine and lettuce soup, 505

Pasta with sardines 2, 306

Steamed swordfish

Polenta with broccoli and

2,

473

1, 480-481 468 Swordfish steaks, 445-446 Swordfish with peppers, 474 Tuna and onions, 499

Swordfish

pancetta, 321

Rice and pasta baked with

pie,

Meat

meatballs,

408-409

Sicilian-style Vermicelli,

Seafood

421

353-354

risotto,

Spaghetti and lobster, 387 Spaghetti with cuttlefish ink, 298

Braised rooster, 583

Spaghetti with tuna, 381

Goat braised with mushrooms, 536

Tagliatelle with

Grilled veal Messina-style,

Uncle Vincenzo’s

523-524

broccoli,

Lamb with fava beans, 545

Onion-glazed beef, 509 kid,

rigatoni

(rigatoni with anchovies,

Meat and cheese souffle, 644 Meat and salame pie, 646 Stewed

squash blossoms,

395-396

Hunter-style rabbit, 557

534

and breadcrumbs),

309 Soups

Beef soup with meatballs and eggs, 184 Fava bean puree

2,

122

Tripe with eggplant and walnuts,

Rice balls in soup 1,117

665-666 Veal and potatoes, 541-542

Rice balls in soup

Baked macaroni and rice with pork, 408 Baked macaroni with eggplant, 407 Baked rice mold, 401-402 Baked rigatoni with braised pork and eggs, 402-403 Baked winter pasta, 297-298 Busiati with pesto, 222 Crown of rice with squid, 233 Curly lasagne with ricotta and cauliflower, 270 Cuscus, 236 Cuscus con zuppa di pesce, 237 Cuscus siciliano, 238 Ditalini with anchovies and sundried tomatoes, 237 Gnoccoli with tuna sauce, 261

Homemade

pasta with baby

ricotta e

melanzane,

Vegetables

Artichoke caponata, 675 Braised or fried cardoons, 681 Braised wild asparagus, 673 Cauliflower

716

balls,

Christmas caponata, 675 Christmas salad, 694 Eggplant Parmigiana

3,

706-707

Eggplant roll-ups, 695 Fried eggplant sandwiches, 698

Salad of crushed olives, 694 Sicilian caponata,

676

Spring vegetable stew, 728

Spring vegetables with vinegar,

690 Stuffed peppers with caciocavallo,

713 Sweet-and-sour stuffed peppers,

711-712 Twice-fried eggplant sandwiches,

698-699

269 Pasta for hard times (with broccoli

117-1 18

Veal meatballs with ricotta in

Swiss chard and ricotta, 730

anchovies, 282

Lasagne with

2,

broth, 178

Pasta, polenta, rice

40

2,

Sicilian pizza 1,

salata,

in sauce,

Stuffed sardines

SICILIA

Seafood salad

anchovies, 300-301

Pasta with eggplant and ricotta

Stuffed small cuttlefish 2, 486

Sweet-and-sour zucchini, 734

fritters,

Grouper

Sarde

cheese,

Vegetables

Fava-bean

Pasta with broccoli and

458

Marinated tope (shark), 469 Monkfish with olives, 491

Fregula soup, 117 salt

463

'

flour, mint,

and pecorino, 181

Soup with

rosso,”

Fried tuna with lemon and

Soups

Clam

“mucco

Crespelle di

Fish in vegetable sauce, 472

Stuffed pasta, 215-216

Winter caponata, 674-675

and anchovies),

TOSCANA

265-266 Pasta with bottarga 2, 303 Pasta with breadcrumbs and

anchovies

1,

303-304

Pasta with breadcrumbs and

anchovies 2, 304 Pasta with broccoli

1,

301

Pasta with broccoli 2, 302

Appetizers

Barberina sauce, 72 Chicken-liver pate canapes, 25 Crostini with liver

and

Eggs

88 32

spleen, 25

in garlic sauce,

Frittata di Vitalba,

Marinated bread

salad,

53

1

1

Migliaccio (baked blood

pudding), 45

Myrtle cream

crostini,

Fish stew with duck, 658-659

TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE

Giblet stew, 546-547

Appetizers

Hunter’s-style kid offal, 563

Sage-and-anchovy

fritters,

2

Lamb

Sweet-and-sour sauce, 70

Tarragon sauce, 71 tart,

78

Desserts

Almond Almond

biscotti 1, 767 paste cookies, 850-85 Baked rice custard from Carrare, 879 Chestnut cake, 770 Chocolate rolled cake, 802 Copate bianche (almond wafers), 780 Copate nere (wafer cookies), 781 Cream-filled sponge cake, 889 Flatbread with dried figs, 858 Flatbread with rosemary and raisins, 858-859 Fried pasta ribbons, 772

Fried wine knots, 821

751-752 Honey-nut sticks, 789 Lucca ring cake, 759-760 Migliacci dolci di maiale, 817 Fruitcake

embers,

1,

Mixed Braised Meats, 645 Mutton sauce, 619

820 Panforte Margherita (fruitcake),

Meat

Tuscan sweet bread, 752 Zucchini cake, 856

mushroom caps,

643-644

430-431

Fish stewViareggio-style,

449-450 Fried eel marinated in vinegar sauce,

483-484

cuttlefish 2,

484

Stockfish with tomatoes

and chard, 370-371

Meat pie, 540 Oxtail stew, 648

Griddled pasta, 403-404

Potato and meat pie, 661

Homemade

Steaks with horseradish sauce,

316 Layered polenta with sausage and mushrooms, 287-288 Macaroni with chard sauce, 413 Meatless ravioli 2, 335 twisted pasta,

Pappardelle in hare sauce,

520-521 Stewed hare, 598 Sweet-and-sour veal snout, 610 Trentino-style hare, 595 Trentino-style rabbit,

Pappardelle with boar, 296-297

Tyrolean steak, 576

Polenta with beans and cabbage,

Veal “birds,” 668

nero ,

Veal brains “sandwiches,” 63

Venison loin with red cabbage timbale and currants, 600

324

Tuscan ragu, 33 Tuscan tortelli, 414 Twisted pasta in bread sauce, 316

Soups

Venison medallions, 608 Venison with berries, 536-537 Pasta, polenta, rice

“Appetite-buster” sausage 3,

1

32

4, 1 59

Casentino-style

soup, 92

“Crazy water” soup, 92 4, 136 veal and vegetable stew, 118 Maremma-style “Cooked water” soup 2, 95-96

casserole, 379 Baked mushroom

crespelle,

264 Cheese gnocchi, 250

Farro soup

Cheese-stuffed dumplings, 264

Lucca spring

Fried sauerkraut

Gnocchi with

eggs,

168-169

“Priest stranglers” green gnocchi in butter sauce,

388

Small butter gnocchi in broth, 248 Small spinach gnocchi in

Polenta soup with cavolo nero, 116

prosciutto sauce, Spatzle,

Spinach dumplings

Tuna-and-anchovy crepes, 467 Tuscan seafood stew, 45

Tagliolini in broth with chicken giblets,

183

Spinach

ravioli,

Barley soup 2, 140 Barley soup

Fagioli infiascati (beans in a

Breaded pig livers, 573 Farro and pig’s trotters, 572

Stuffed celery, 724

botde), 687

1,

265

336

Soups

Tomato soup, 161

Braised veal, 552

249

248

Vegetable and bean stew, 173 Vegetables

334 255

ravioli,

sardines,

Polenta and snails, 322-323

Sweet onion soup, 109-1 10

Braised snout, 588

310

Black-bread gnocchi with hops,

Polenta with black kale, 99-100

Boiled beef stew, 577

558-559

Tyrolean chamois, 527-528

294-295

potatoes, 495 Tope and mushrooms, 470

Meat

meat), 542

Chestnut-flour gnocchi, 255

Minestrone, 154

and

salata (salted

Hunter-style mutton, 544

Marjoram broth with poached

Mullet with plum tomato, 500

494

Goulash, 589

Black risotto with cuttlefish ink

“Cooked water”

Fish stew Livorno-style, 449

2,

Brain souffle, 526-527

Carne

Pasta, polenta, rice

Cod Arezzo-style, 441

Eels Giovi-style,

and potatoes

Beef steaks with onion, 564

Veal cutlets with

Bread soup

Eel in sauce, 436

Stockfish

Tripe Pisa-style, 665

Boiled cod, 483

Codfish Florence-style, 438-439

Cod Trentino-style, 439

Baked pork shanks, 65

Bean soup

Fish

796

frittata,

Walnut pudding, 760

Tripe Florentine-style, 663

263

Sweet chestnut polenta, 836 Sweet yeasted flatbread, 859 Tuscan chestnut loaf, 790

Emperor’s

Fruit ravioli, 863

“Sweet-and-strong” boar, 550

Polenta with beans and cavolo

873

Apple dumplings, 807 Apple strudel, 867-868 Apricot dumplings, 807 Buckwheat cake, 875-876

Fish

830 Pisa-style rice tart,

Potato pie or “tartlets,” 84 Desserts

Pan-cooked rabbit, 561 Pork cutlets in wine, 522 Ranocchi fritti (fried frogs), 637 Roast pork loin, 518 Steak Florentine, 519

Necci (chestnut-flour crepes),

Stewed

in

510

spiced veal, 21

Vegetable

stew with tomatoes, 527

Leg of lamb baked

Sausage sauce, 73

1

1

Hunter-style chicken 3, 626

24

Pastry leaves, 52

Smoked

1

Crostini

all

3,

140

milza per minestra

(spleen crostini), 111

Dumplings with speck in broth, 119

905

1

1

Goulash soup, 138

Mushroom

Stuffed roast duck, 516-517

soup, 105

Potato and

Old-fashioned rice pudding cake,

Sweet-and-sour pork, 605

Piquant tripe soup, 187

mushroom

879

Veal cutlets in sauce, 520

soup, 203

Rice and frankfurter soup, 147

Pears in wine, 837

Rum custard, 783

Pasta, polenta, rice

Tripe soup, 149

Baked pasta pie, 375 Gnocchi with goose sauce, 251

Valdostan apple cake, 791

Wine

Homemade pasta with

Walnut soup, 890

soup, 208

Vegetables

giblets,

Bitter greens salad with

warm

bacon dressing, 693

chicken

281

Sweet bread from Cogne, 826

Zuppetta di vino (“donkey’s

Homemade pasta with guanciale

soup”), 889

and sausage, 314 Lamb ragu, 330

Fish

UMBRIA

Pasta Scheggino-style, 275

Meat

Appetizers

Pasta “snails” with sausage, 275

Barbazza scottata

(fried

pork

Pasta with

Trout

mushrooms and

garlic,

232-233

cheek), 7

Risotto with wild greens, 359

Coppa

Small gnocchi

(pork sausage), 20

Easter cheese bread, 22 Easter

frittata,

33

in

bean sauce,

Spaghetti with truffles, 385

Ring cakes with cheese, 17 Truffle frittata, 32

Strengozzi with garlic,

Truffle sauce, 7

Tagliolini with black truffle

Drunken

toast,

884-885

tomatoes, 389

Rolled chocolate cake, 852 Spice nut cake from Terni, 824 Walnut nougat, 821 Fish

oil,

Piediluco (fire-scorched perch), 454 Carp roasted in wild fennel, 453-454 Cod fritters, 462 Cod with raisins and prunes, 441 Fried shad, 427 Shrimp in green sauce, 462 Spit-roasted eel, 432 Stewed eels and perch, 496-497 Tench soup, 447 Trout with parsley sauce, 502 Trout with truffle sauce, 502

232

tripe in crust,

Butternut-squash gnocchi

1,

259

Chestnut fettuccine with cabbage

and pork, 241

Bean soup 4, 132-133 Chestnut and chickpea soup

Polenta with fontina, 321 2,

195 Farro soup

Baked

136

5,

tagliolini

rice

and beans with cheese,

175

Pasta and chickpea soup 3, 165

Tench and

Valdostan baked polenta, 323

Soups

soup

2,

148

VALLE D AOSTA Appetizers

Boiled chestnuts with butter,

15-16

Baked vegetable soup with black bread and barley, 188 Barley soup 1, 139 Cheese soup, 187 Chestnut and rice soup, 129-130 Minestra di riso

alia

valdostana

(Valdostan rice soup), 146

Camesecca valdostana (Valdostan cured meat), 16

Minestra primaverile di erbe di Prato (spring herb soup), 153

Cured chamois on crostini, 45 Lardo di Arnad (marinated lard), 42

Mountain soup from Valpelline, 188-189 Peasant soup, 209

Mammella

Rice soup, 145

mucca

di

(brined

udders), 43

667-668 Giblet stew with eggs, 552 Guinea hen pate, 570-571 Kidneys in wine, 659 Labbritti con i fagioli (iabbritti and beans), 594 Lamb fricassee, 514 Lamb offal with artichokes, 562 Lamb with truffle, 515 Porchetta (spit-roasted pig), 630 Pork and sweetbreads with beans, 614 Pork with chervil sauce, 540 Rabbit with fennel, 555 Roba cotta (“cooked stuff”), 638 Spit-roasted squab, 614 Squab on skewers, 623-624 Baked

Buckwheat gnocchi with speck, 255-256

Soups

Meat

906

from

Cicerchia soup, 131

Carbonaretti del Lago di

Pasta, polenta, rice

Barley polenta, 326

Temi-style pasta with garlic and

786

Easter buns, 845

566

591

Veal stew “White Lady,” 578

and

chili,

Norcia, 399 biscotti,

roll-ups,

Veal roll-ups, 591

Pizza with cracklings, 61

Almond-fruit

Cheese-filled veal chops,

Pork

Veal in white wine, 539

tomato sauce, 385

Desserts

617

onion sauce, 528

Veal cutlets with fontina, 642-643

Spaghetti with guanciale and

Easter pizza with cheese, 63

in

Ox in wine sauce, 576

made with

breadcrumbs 247

501

vegetables,

Beef carbonnade, 538

Chamois

Bread with walnuts, 5

Commeal pizza, 62

in red wine,

Baked meat and

Marinated toma cheese, 30 Polenta balls, 50 Prosciutto di Bosses (jambon de

Bosses), 67

Sanguinaccio valdostano (blood pudding), 76

Zuppa

al

raperonzolo (rampion

soup), 186 Vegetables

Dandelion and pancetta

salad,

693

Cheese

Marinated tomino cheese, 740 Potato puree with cheese, 741

Valdostan fondue, 738 Desserts

Almond bread pudding, 889-890 Almond coffee, 763 Berry-cheese cream, 783

Chocolate cream, 782-783 Ice

Rye-flour porridge, 171

Soup from Cogne, 178-179 Wild herb soup, 131

cream with chocolate sauce, 781

Easter spring greens pie, 730

Grandma’s prosciutto and beans, 717 Potato pancakes with blood sausage, 684-685

Potatoes and pears, 708 flan, 725 Savoy cabbage flans with fonduta, 725 Vegetable pie, 707

Savoy cabbage

6

VENETO Appetizers Frittata with Frittelle di

ground meat, 34

maresina (herb

fritters),

Marrow Salame

frittata 2,

34

Vol-au-vent with radicchio and

88-89

Cheese

Breaded cheese, 744 Homemade cheese, 743

Cappone

Desserts

Almond nougat 1,812 Apple-raisin pancakes, 806

Apple

tart

with mostarda, 877

alia canevera (capon pig’s bladder), 533 Chicken in white wine, 625 Christmas snails, 600-601

Butter cake, 796

Collo de castrato,

Cornmeal cookies, 886-887 Grappa fritters, 793 Layer cake, 836-837 Marmellata di castagne, 814

Cooked soppressata, 647 Drunken hen, 584

risi,

e

in

piselli

(lamb’s neck), 554

Duck breast with

cherry sauce,

604

Polenta fruitcake, 801

Prune or apricot knodel, 11910 Puff pastries, 862 Rose fritte (“fried roses”), 852 Sandy cake, 882 Sponge cake, 846 Star cake, 819 Stuffed peaches with almonds,

838-839

Duck stuffed with liver, 5

Duckling

White pepper cookies, 839

6 1 5-6 1

fruit,

fillet

with poppies,

515-516 Gallina cotta nel capretto (hens

cooked in a leaves,

Sweet potato cake, 878 Ugly and good cookies, 759 Venetian biscotti, 750 Walnut caramel pie, 874-875

sausage and

17-5 18

Duck with

Grilled guinea

Sweet flatbread, 858 Sweet lasagna, 808

585 hen with bay

kid),

571

Guinea hen with black pepper sauce, 571-572 in pepper sauce, 597 Hen with pheasant stuffing, 572 Horsemeat stew, 618

Hare

Involtini di

musso

alia

pancetta

(donkey roll-ups), 593

Fish

Baked pasta with anchovies, 487 Baked sturgeon, 496 Boiled pike, 466

Liver and onions Venetian-style,

Braised catfish 2, 471

Pork

Cod in parsley, 442 Cod Vicenza-style, 439-440 Creamed cod Veneto-style, 443 Creamed cod Vicenza-style, 443-444 Eel with plums, 432 Fried

eel,

433

Fried soft-shell crabs, 467

Glassmaker’s

—

Pike

eel,

431-432 and baked,

fried, grilled,

464 Pike in sauce, 465

Roast cod, 440 Sardines in vinegar, 481 Schille or cragnoni olio

con

aglio e

(shrimps in garlic and

485 Shrimp and porcini 487—488 Soused

fish,

Marrow

sauce with pepper, 521

cutlets with

Savoy cabbage,

454

gratin,

gizzards, 368 Gnocchi stuffed with mushrooms, 260 Macaroni pie 2, 3 1 Potato gnocchi Verona-style, 258 Radicchio crepes, 234-235 Rice and beans, 344 Rice and celery, 346 Rice and peas 1, 345 Rice and peas 2, 345 Rich risotto Padua-style, 371-372 Riso con i fegatini (rice and livers), 343 Risotto with honey mushrooms, 360 Risotto with hop shoots, 368 Risotto with Lake Garda tench, 363 Risotto with pork and veal, 357 Risotto with sausage and cabbage, 362 Risotto with sausage and cauliflower, 367 Risotto with sea bass, 367 Risotto with secole, 366 Risotto with shrimp and asparagus, 368-369

Spiced risotto with salame, 361

Spinach dumplings Spring

2, 265 371 squab sauce, 393

risotto,

Tagliatelle in

Thick bigoli with goose and mushroom sauce, 219 Veronese rice and tripe, 346-347 Soups

“Brooding” Pigeons (squab) Stew, 179

Fish soup, 204

Quail Veneto-style, 633

Lake Garda fish soup, 192 Lamon bean soup, 133 Razor clams in broth, 108 Rice and potato soup 1, 145 Rice with celery and tomato, 176

Roast turkey with pomegranates,

Rice with chicken

565 Preserved smoked goose, 612 Quail in pastry with mushrooms,

633-634

Stuffed squab, 622

Baked prosciutto and herb pie, 312 Beet stuffed pasta with poppy seeds, 229 Bigoli with anchovies, 219 Bigoli with duck 2, 218 Bigoli with salted freshwater sardines,

217

livers,

175

“Roots” and bean soup, 172 Scaliger soup, 187-188 Tripe soup

Pasta, polenta, rice

1,

207

Tripe soup 3, 208 Turnip greens soup, 113-1 14 Wedding soup 5, 152-153 White bean puree, 1 23 Vegetables

Asparagus with egg sauce,

672-673 Grilled radicchio Treviso-style,

Black risotto with cuttlefish ink,

oil),

Belluno-style, 260 Cheese dumplings, 223 and beans, 344

Feltre-style rice

Barley soup 5, 141

575 Mallard in sauce, 586

657

Fried pike croquettes, 464-465

Butternut-squash gnocchi

“Free-range” risotto with

all chiampese (woodcock Chiampo-style), 520 Beccacce alia arzignanese (woodcock Arzignano-style) 519 Boiled meats Padua-style, 587-588

Beccacce

sauce, 56

cheese,

Stewed eel with peas, 433-434 Sturgeon with capers and olives, 496 Treviso shrimp, 462

Meat

36

Liver pate, 55

1

,

720

351 Black

tagliatelle

with cuttlefish,

398

907

1

INDEX -/RECIPES BY PRINCIPAL INGREDIENT

Almonds

Panforte Margherita (fruitcake),

Almond and

chocolate layer cake,

843-844 Almond and fig-filled Christmas cookies, 788

Almond biscotti (Abruzzo), 755 Almond biscotti (Basilicata), 865 Almond biscotti 1, 767 Almond bread pudding, 889-890 Almond cake 1 874 Almond cake 2, 875 Almond cake 3, 876 Almond cake glazed with chocolate, ,

834

Almond candy, 790-791 Almond coffee, 763 Almond cookies, 792 Almond nougat 1,812 Almond nougat 2, 870-871 Almond paste, 834-835 Almond paste cookies, 850-851 Almond shortbread, 778-779 Almond spaghetti, 809 Almond tart, 872 Almond tart with chocolate glaze,

830

Bigoli with anchovies,

tomatoes, 237

Raisin cookies, 792

Rose pudding, 762 “St. Joseph’s Lunch,” 329 Sardinian orange slices, 749 Semolina bread, 825 Semolina bread with wine must and almonds, 857 Sesame nougat, 871 Spice cake, 824 Spiced nut cake ffomTemi, 824 Squash cake, 85 Stuffed figs, 794 Stuffed peaches, 838

Fava beans and anchovies, 688 Ferretti with anchovies and bread, 239 Fillings for tiellas,

340-341

Fried stuffed anchovies, 427

Green sauce

for boiled meat, 5

Homemade pasta

with baby

anchovies, 282 Hunter’s-style suckling lamb, 508

Linguine with anchovies, capers,

olives,

and

273

Little stuffed

dumplings, 294

Marinated anchovies, 427 Mariner’s spaghetti, 386

Stuffed peaches with almonds,

838-839

Oranges with anchovies, 3

Sweet-and-sour meatballs 2 (Calabria),

219 and

Ditalini with anchovies

Quaresimali, 849

Pasta for hard times (with broccoli

and anchovies), 265-266

628

Sweet-and-sour mussels, 457

Pasta in anchovy sauce, 242

880 Ugly and good cookies, 759 Ugly but good macaroons, 759 Yellow cake with fruit, 83

Pasta with anchovies and tuna, 423

Tagliolini pie,

Pasta with breadcrumbs and

anchovies

1

(Sicilia),

303-304

Pasta with breadcrumbs and

anchovies 2 (Calabria), 304

751 wafers, 780 Almond-and-anchovy sauce, 75 Almond-chocolate tartlets, 853 Almond-fruit biscotti, 884-885 Baked fig and nut calzone, 820 Buckwheat cake, 875-876 Capri chocolate-almond cake, 872

Amaretti cookies Baked amaretto peaches, 838 Blancmange with amaretti, 756 Peach and amaretti semifreddo, 861 Pear cake, 823 Plum cake, 880

Pasta with sardines, anchovies, and

Charterhouse-style sweet bread,

Stuffed peaches with almonds,

Puntarelle salad with anchovy

Almond

Pasta with broccoli and anchovies,

Amaretti pudding, 762

300-301

(Piemonte), 627-628 Tortelli Cremasco-style,

Fruitcake 2 (Emilia-Romagna),

864-865 Fruitcake with nuts, 800-801

754

Honey almond cookies, 854 Honey biscuits, 837 Honey fritters, 778 Layer cake, 836-837 Marzipan-filled cookies, 769-770

Nut and raisin candy, 833 Nut crescents, 779

908

717-718

Rice salad with anchovies, 41

417

Sage-and-anchovy

fritters,

2

Joseph’s pasta, 266 Soused bream, 445 St.

881

Copate bianche (wafer cakes), 780 Cornmeal sponge cake, 845 Cream baskets, 831 Crumbly almond cake, 883 Drunken toasts, 786

biscotti,

Pizza with anchovies and capers, 60

Ratatouille Piedmont-style, 721

1

Christmas ring cakes, 840

Home-style

Pike in anchovy sauce, 465

dressing,

Sweet-and-sour meatballs

Christmas nougat, 871 pie,

Pickled fish 2 (Molise), 77

838-839

826-827 Cherry-almond tart, 873 Christmas Eve cake, 881

Coffee and chocolate

breadcrumbs, 304

Anchovies Almond-and-anchovy

sauce, 75

Anchovies in green sauce, 426^427 Anchovies in red sauce, 426 Anchovies in tomato sauce, 2 stew,

103

Baked anchovies (Calabria), 428-429 Baked anchovies (Sicilia), 466 Baked pasta with anchovies, 487

alia colatura,

384

Spaghetti with anchovies, olives, and capers,

Anchovies with endive, 429

Anchovy and cauliflower Anchovy balls, 478 Anchovy frittata, 461 Anchovy fritters, 34 Anchovy roll-ups, 445 Anchovy soup, 99 Bagna caoda, 6

Spaghetti

384

Spaghetti with baby anchovies, 385 Tielle de Gaeta, 406 Tuna-and-anchovy crepes, 467 Uncle Vincenzo’s rigatoni (rigatoni with anchovies, broccoli, and

breadcrumbs), 309

Whole wheat

spaghetti with

anchovies and breadcrumbs, 387

Anise liqueur and anisette Almond-fruit biscotti, 884-885 Anisette fritters, 860 “Bones of the dead” cookies, 822

1

Asparagus

Beans in sauce, 727-728 Beans with dumplings, 114 Cannelichhje e fafe, 109 Cavatelli and beans, 230 Chickpea and bean soup, 124—125

Asparagus soup, 192

Cicerchia soup, 131

Asparagus with egg sauce, 672-673 Asparagus with fried eggs, 672

Corn, bean, and potato soup, 1 37 Crushed potatoes and beans with

826-827 Glazed S cookies, 869 Lucca ring cake, 759-760

Asparagus with Gorgonzola, 5 Braised wild asparagus, 673

Fagioli infiascati (beans in a bottle),

“Stairway to heaven” cookies, 854

Rice and asparagus, 343-344

and potatoes,

Cavatelli with arugula

Coffee and chocolate pie, 881 Ricotta pie, 843

111

Macaroni with arugula, 276

Anise seeds Anise cookies, 748 Anise

fritters

with honey, 777

Anise ring cookies, 776 Charterhouse-style sweet bread,

Tortoli,

Frittata diVitalba,

cheese,

368-369

Apples Apple and pear

Labbritti

cake, 877 Apple Charlotte, 773-774 Apple dumplings, 807 Apple fritters, 797-798

Aspic

Apple fritters with Moscato wine, 798 Apple pancakes, 833 Apple strudel, 867-868

Barley Baked vegetable soup with black bread and barley, 188 Barley and potato soup, 155 Barley and vegetable soup, 142 Barley polenta, 326 Barley soup 1 (Valle d’ Aosta), 139 Barley soup 2 (Alto Adige), 140 Barley soup 3 (Trentino), 140 Barley soup 4 (Lombardia),

Apple Apple

tart

with mostarda, 877

Apple-raisin pancakes, 806

Baked apple

pastry,

784

Valdostan apple cake, 791

Artichokes Artichoke and cheese casserole, 724 Artichoke and fava bean stew, 682 Artichoke caponata, 675 Artichoke flan, 728-729 Artichoke pizza, 714-715 Baked artichokes, 677 Baked artichokes with egg sauce, 677 Baked layered crepes with artichoke, 409 Beef and vegetable pie, 410 Jewish-style artichokes, 677-678

Lamb and artichoke

fricassee,

offal

575

Maltagliati with artichoke sauce,

329

artichokes, 541

Orecchiette with artichokes, 290

Pizza with artichokes and ricotta,

60-61 Rice timbale

1

(Campania), 374

Roman-style artichokes, 678-679 Rustic torte with artichokes, 73

Sardine and artichoke casserole, 418

Scrambled eggs with artichokes, 692 Spring vegetable stew (Sicilia), 728 Steamed artichokes, 674 Vine-roasted artichokes, 678 Winter caponata, 674-675

Arugula Bread soup with arugula and potatoes, 160

virtu (Virtues Soup),

Pasta and bean soup

140-141

1

185

(Campania),

Pasta and bean soup 2 (Friuli-

Venezia Giulia), 166 Pasta and bean soup 3 (Emilia-

Romagna), 169 Pasta and bean soup 4 (Piemonte),

180 Pasta and white beans, 307

Pasta with beans (Abruzzo), 373 Pasta with beans (Emilia-Romagna),

179 Pasta with beans (Lazio), 119

Barley soup 5 (Veneto), 141

Pasta with beans (Molise), 284

Barley soup 6 (Piemonte), 202

Pasta with beans and mushrooms,

Beef broth with barley

flour, mint,

and pecorino, 181 Vegetable soup with squash and barley, 199

283 Polenta and beans (Abruzzo), 322

Polenta and beans (Lazio), 170 Polenta with beans and cabbage, 263 Polenta with beans and cavolo nero,

Basil

324

Minestrone with

basil,

126

Penne with tomatoes and

Polenta with black kale, 99-100

basil,

315

Polenta with white beans and

cabbage, 319

Beans

Pork and bean soup, 197

Bean, cabbage, and potato soup,

Pork and beans, 114 Pork and sweetbreads with beans,

Bean, escarole, and pork soup, 198

with artichokes, 562

Layered pie with artichokes, 731

Meat and

in aspic,

156-157

578-579

Lamb

rump

166

777

tart,

Le

preparation of, 5 Veal

and beans, 344 Goat and beans, 533-534 con i fagioli, 594 Lamon bean soup, 133 Lardari with tomatoes, 696

Feltre-style rice

Risotto with shrimp and asparagus,

884

744

687

32

Bean and chestnut soup, 106 Bean and pasta soup, 197 Bean and rice soup, 107 Bean and wild fennel soup, 196-197 Bean soup, 106 Bean soup 1 (Friuli-Venezia Giulia), 131

Bean Bean Bean Bean Bean

Rice, beans, milk,

and salame, 175

Rice and beans (Valle d’ Aosta), 175

Rice and beans (Veneto), 344 Rice with beans, 292 Rice with beans, cabbage, and pork,

soup 2 (Piemonte), 132 soup 3 (Toscana), 132 soup 4 (Umbria), 132-133

soup 5 (Puglia), 196 soup with chicory and fennel,

127

Bean soup with fermented

614 Pork roll-ups, 41-42 Potato and bean stew, 708

292 Rice with beans, cabbage, and salame, 291 Risotto with beans, Risotto with squash

360 and beans, 363

“Roots” and bean soup, 172 turnips,

134

Bean soup with musetto, 133 Bean soup with mushrooms, 134 Beans and pork, 686 Beans and roasted dried peppers, 686

Rough-cut pasta with beans, 285 “St. Joseph’s Lunch,” 329 Small gnocchi

made with

breadcrumbs

in

bean sauce, 247 395 in bean broth,

Tagliatelle with beans,

Tiny pasta (pistadein) 169-170

909

1

Tripe and beans, 667 Turnip and bean soup, 190-191 Vegetable and bean stew, 173

Beef Agnolotti gobbi astigiani-albesi

ai tre

213 Half-moon pasta with meat-andspinach filling, 212 Anolini with beef filling, 97 Baked fusilli and precchiette, 246 Baked lasagna with broth, 120 Baked layered crepes with artichoke, 409 Bean stew with beef and ham, 598 Beef and vegetable pie, 410 Beef braised in Barolo, 524 Beef carbonnade, 538 Beef cheek with cumin, 588 Beef in pizza sauce, 539 Beef in sauce (Campania), 523 Beef in sauce (Lombardia), 606 Beef medallions, 608 Beef pot roast, 587 Beef rolls Roman-style, 590 Beef roll-ups (Emilia-Romagna), 669 Beef roll-ups (Sardegna), 553 Beef roll-ups with tuna sauce, 42 Beef soup with meatballs and eggs, 184 Beef steaks with onion, 564 Beef stew, 654-655 Beef stew with celery, 655-656 Beef stew with cloves, 584-585 Beef with balsamic vinegar, 577 arrosti,

Bergamo-style stuffed pasta,

227-228

Brain souffle, 526-527

Brescia-style stuffed pasta,

228

Cannelloni with meat sauce, 224

Cotechino “in prison,” 566-567 Fettuccine with meat sauce, 331 quarter” beef stew,

653-654 piemontese, 577

Gelatina (gelatin), 37

Goulash, 589

Goulash soup, 138 Green lasagna with meat sauce, 270 Horsemeat stew (Emilia-Romagna), 624 Horsemeat stew (Veneto), 618 Hunter’s-style marinated beef,

542-543 Kidneys in wine, 659 Leftover meatballs, 628-629 Lesso misto (boiled meats), 599 Macaroni pie 1 (Emilia-Romagna), 310-311 Macaroni pie 2 (Veneto), 311 Marrow sauce, 56

910

Mignuic or

Mixed

cavatielli,

288

1

1 1

Polenta with beans and cavolo nero,

324 Polenta with black kale, 99-100

Boar Boar country-style, 548 BoarViterbo-style, 548 Boar with forest berries, 547-548 Cinghiale d’Aspromonte (saddle of

braised meats, 522

Mushroom meatballs, 66

boar), 551

Neapolitan lasagna, 268-269

Pappardelle with boar, 296-297

Neapolitan ragu, 539

Pork stew, 656 Stewed boar, 55

Onion-glazed beef (or chicken),

Sweet-and-sour boar, 549-550

509

Ox in wine sauce, 576

“Sweet-and-strong” boar, 550

648 Oxtail stew (Lazio), 552-553 Pan-fried beef and vegetables, 579 Pappardelle in duck sauce, 295-296 Parma-style beef roast, 637-638 Parma-style beef stew, 652 Pasta and meat pie, 411 Oxtail stew (Alto Adige),

Pasta asciutta

alia

pugliese (pasta

Pasta stuffed with beef and sausage,

244 Pasta with meat sauce and onions,

279

laziale,

94

Almond bread pudding, 889-890 Apple pancakes, 833 Apple-raisin pancakes, 806

Apricot dumplings, 807

Baked bread and cheese with broth, Baked calzone, 12-13 Baked crepes with bread and cheese filling, 287 Baked dumplings with sausage and cheese, 10

Piacenza-style anolini, 98 Piacenza-style beef stew,

Bread Acquacotta

391

Puglia-style), 301

652-653

Potato and meat pie, 661 Potato gnocchi Romagna-style, 257

Baked polenta with turnips and sausages, 65-66 Bathed bread, 98-99

Puglian meat sauce, 329-330

Black-bread gnocchi with hops, 264

Rice croquettes, 80-81

Braided cookies, 870

Risotto with secole, 366

Bread and tomato Bread balls, 327

Romagna-style meat sauce, 330

Romagna-style ragu, 634

Smoked meat with

polenta “sauce,”

621

Braised beef (Lombardia), 606

alia

Meatballs, 632

354

Boiled meats Padua-style, 587-588

Finanziera

Meat and artichokes, 541 Meat and cheese souffle, 644 Meat braised with cabbage, 525 Meat pastries 1 (Sardegna), 262 Meat pastries 2 (Sardegna), 263 Meat roll-ups, 592

Saffron risotto with mushrooms,

Boiled beef stew, 577

The “fifth

1

Squab

stuffed with meat,

623

Steak florentine, 519 Steaks with horseradish sauce,

520-521 Stewed beef Milan-style, 607 Stuffed lasagna, 269-270 Stuffed olives, 46-47 Sweet-and-sour meatballs 2 (Calabria),

628

Tagliatelle with

sauce,

Romagna-style meat

1

Tripe soup 2

158 Bread soup 2 (Lombardia), 158 Bread soup 3 (Piemonte), 159 Bread soup 4 (Toscana), 159 Bread soup 5 (Basilicata), 169

Bread soup with arugula and potatoes, 160 Bread soup with bay leaf, 160 Bread with olives, 5 Bread with pork bits, 86 Bread with walnuts, 51 Breadsticks, 38 Brusarol (grilled polenta balls), 222

394

Tripe sausages, 599 Tripe soup

salad, 5

Bread rings with baked eggs, 9 Bread soup (Lombardia), 142 Bread soup 1 (Emilia-Romagna),

(Veneto), 207 (Friuli- Venezia Giulia),

207-208 Tripe soup 3 (Veneto), 208 Tuscan ragu, 33

Tyrolean steak, 576

Wild herbs and meat soup, 153 Zeaia, 87

Black kale ( cavolo nero) Black kale and rice soup, 200 Polenta soup with cavolo nero, 116

Bruschetta, 8

Buckwheat flatbread, 69 Buckwheat fritters, 78-79 Buckwheat porridge, 376 Calcioni (fried dumplings with prosciutto and cheese), Caponata 2 (Molise), 14

1

Carnival calzone, 12

Cheese Cheese 160 Cheese Cheese

and egg fritters, 50 and onion bread in broth, dumplings, 223 gnocchi, 250

1

Chicken-liver pate canapes, 25

Pissaladiere,

Chickpea flatbread, 27

Pizza con

Chickpea polenta, 52 fritters,

1

Peasant soup (Valle d’ Aosta), 209

Chickpea crepe, 26-27

Chickpea-flour

1

1

57-58

fiori di

sambuco

(pizza

with elderberry flowers), 64

35

Pizza di verdure, 62

Christmas bread, 827

Pizza with anchovies and capers, 60

Ciarla (pizza dough), 18

Pizza with artichokes and ricotta,

Conglufi, 234

60-61

Cornmeal

fritters,

Commeal

pizza,

Crepes in broth,

75

Pizza with escarole, 61-62

78

1

and

and spleen, 25 24-25 Cured chamois on crostini, 45 Dumplings with speck in broth, 119 Easter cheese bread, 22 Crostini with mussels,

Easter focaccia, 795

83

di vino (“donkey’s soup”),

Pizza with turnip greens, 60

Broccoli

Pizze di Pasqua (Easter pizza), 846

Braised broccoli, 673

Pizziconi,

Polenta

Braised broccoli with vinegar, 674

317

balls,

Fava, broccoli, and chicory soup,

50

Polenta pie with sausage and raisins,

28

butter

and sage sauce, 387-388

“Priest stranglers” green gnocchi in

858 Flatbread with greens and sausage, Flatbread with dried

figs,

butter sauce,

388

Radicchio crepes, 234-235

858-859 Focaccia, 28

Ricotta

and sausage dumplings, 82

Focaccia with ricotta (Calabria), 29

Ring breads with eggs, 775 Ring cakes with cheese, 17 Ring-shaped fritters, 23 Rolled pizza, 59 Romagna-style polenta, 318

Focaccia with ricotta (Piemonte),

Rye-flour porridge, 171

tuna,

and tomato,

Focaccia with olives, 28-29

794-795

“Salted water” soup

Fried bread (Emilia-Romagna), 38 Fried bread (Friuli- Venezia Giulia),

828

1

321 Ratatouille Piedmont-style, 721 “St. Joseph’s

(Puglia),

96

“Salted water” soup 2 (Basilicata),

with anchovies, broccoli, and

Griddle cakes, 864

Shepherd’s bread soup, 61

Neapolitan pizza, 58 Olive and ricotta calzones,

Sicilian pizza 1 {pizza alia Siciliana ),

Sicilian pizza 2 (pizza Siciliana),

78

all

milza

1 1

Stuffed brioche, 7-8

1-12

Stuffed pizza (Campania), 63

Olive bread, 67

Stuffed pizza (Puglia), 76

Onion soup with bread, 196

Stuffed-bread soup, 202-203

Palatschinken with preserves,

Sweet bread from Cogne, 826 Sweet bread with fruits and nuts,

784-785 Pane carasau fritters, 798 Panettone, 829-830 Pastry leaves, 52 Peasant soup (Puglia), 1 1

825-826 Sweet commeal bread, 825 Sweet Easter bread, 856 Sweet flatbread, 858

stew,

658

Eel with Savoy cabbage, 432

Fried sauerkraut

(Lombardia), 124 per minestra),

and pork, 241

Donkey and cabbage

Soup with bread dumplings 2 Spleen crostini (Crostini

Baked meat and vegetables, 617 Buckwheat pasta with cabbage, 318 Cabbage and cheese soup, 180 Cabbage and pork-rind soup, 149 Cabbage and rice soup, 149-150 Chestnut fettuccine with cabbage

1

(Emilia-Romagna), 124

Stuffed peaches, 838 1

65

Small focaccias with tomato sauce,

Soup from Cogne, 178-179 Soup with bread dumplings

breadcrumbs), 309

Cabbage

59

Music-paper bread with poached eggs, 291 Music-paper-bread salad, 52 Myrtle cream crostini, 24

Sausages with broccoli rabe, 641 Tagliatelle with broccoli,

Semolina bread with wine must and almonds, 857

bread

Lunch,” 329

Sausages and broccoli, 640-641

396 Uncle Vincenzo’s rigatoni (rigatoni

96

Fried flatbread, 9

in

302

300-301

Fried bread with Bulide, 828

245 Layered pizza, 58 Marinated bread salad, 53 Meat pizza, 64 Medieval gnocchi, 261 Mountain soup fromValpelline, 188-189

301

(Sicilia),

Polenta with broccoli and pancetta,

Semolina bread, 825

frigolada,

(Sicilia),

Pasta with broccoli 3 (Puglia), 302

Pasta with fried broccoli, 302-303

Sausage soup, 193

sauce, 316

1

Pasta with broccoli 2

Pasta with broccoli and anchovies,

Fried bread puffs, 89

Homemade twisted pasta

545-546

Pasta with broccoli

Ricotta dumplings in broth, 171

29

friarieUi,

Pan-fried sausages and broccoli, 641

and anchovies), 265-266

bread, 827-828

Flatbread with rosemary and raisins,

Focaccia with cheese, 740

Fried neapolitan sausage and

Pasta for hard times (with broccoli

Prosciutto in bread dough, 63

Pumpkin

23

191 Fried broccoli rabe, 704

“Priest stranglers” green gnocchi in

Fasting day (meatlesss) calzone, 13

La

fruit,

(Friuli- Venezia

889

54

Easter pizza with cheese, 63

oil,

pane 200

64-65

Crostini with liver

Focaccia with

di

Giulia),

Zuppetta

Pizza with potatoes and olives,

provatura, 24

Filled focaccia,

Zuppa

Pizza with cracklings and raisins, 61

Crostini with anchovies

Tuscan sweet bread, 752 Unleavened flatbread, 57 Whole wheat spaghetti with anchovies and breadcrumbs, 387 Yellow cake with

Pizza with cracklings, 61

62

Sweet yeasted flatbread, 859 Tiny dumplings in herb broth, 116 Toasted broth, 104

ravioli,

334

Goose with cabbage, 611 Meat braised with cabbage, 525 Mountain soup fromValpelline, 188-189 Polenta with white beans and

cabbage, 319

Pork and cabbage stew, 543 Pork cutlets with Savoy cabbage,

565 Rice with beans, cabbage, and pork,

292 Rice with beans, cabbage, and salame, 291

911

1

1

Risotto with sausage and cabbage,

Cauliflower

362 Savoy cabbage flan, 725 Savoy cabbage flans with fonduta, 725 Spiced cabbage with egg, 714 Stuffed cabbage, 529 Sweet-and-sour baised cabbage, 676 Venison loin with red cabbage timbale and currants, 600

Cauliflower rigatoni, 337-338

balls,

716

Cheese sauce with potatoes and

Curly lasagne with ricotta and cauliflower,

Drunken

270

cauliflower,

683

onions,

Cheese-stuffed dumplings, 264

Pasta and cauliflower (Campania),

307

Chicken

cutlets with

cheese,

Pasta with broccoli 3 (Puglia), 302

and

738-739

Cheese soup, 187 Cheese tart, 84 Montasio

620

Cream-filled sponge cake, 889

495 Sturgeon with capers and olives, 496

Christmas salad, 694

Crushed potatoes and beans with cheese, 744 “Drowned” polenta, 326 Filled cannoli, 765-766 Filled cookies, 861-862 Fillings for tiellas, 340-341 Fiorini filled with salame and cheese, 242 Focaccia with cheese, 740 Focaccia with ricotta (Calabria), 29

Gorgonzola-stuffed celery, 79

Focaccia with ricotta (Piemonte),

Swordfish with capers

Potato and celery soup, 168

Capers

Risotto with sausage

367 Soupy pasta with

cauliflower,

cauliflower

and

black olives, 164

Linguine with anchovies,

olives,

and

Lunch,” 329

“St. Joseph’s

capers, 273

Pizza with anchovies and capers, 60 Spaghetti with anchovies, olives, and capers,

384

Celery Beef stew with

celery,

655-656

Christmas caponata, 675

Stockfish with capers,

1

(Calabria),

473-474

Rice and celery, 346

Swordfish with capers 2 (Calabria),

475 Swordfish with capers and lemon,

475

Stuffed celery, 724

Frico (fried cheese), 739

Fried cheese, 9

White celery soup, 126

Fried mozzarella sandwich, 46 Fried ricotta, 742-743

Chamois Chamois

Capon

in

onion sauce, 528

Tyrolean chamois, 527-528

Boiled meats Padua-style, 587-588

Boiled stuffed capon or hen, 522

Capon with Capon with sauce,

Chard. See Swiss chard

anchovies, 584 anolini

and prosciutto

pig’s bladder),

Cheese Apostles’ fingers (Ricotta-stuffed

226

Capon with lemon balm, 531 Capppone alia canevera (capon

crepes), in

533

Lesso misto (boiled meats), 599 Roast capon, 528-529 Spiced capon, 530

Cardoons

broth, 167

Vegetable stew with celery, 682

Swordfish with olives and capers,

475

794-795 Fondue-stuffed pasta with veal

Rice with celery and tomato, 176

788-789

Artichoke and cheese casserole,

724 Baked cheese pie, 241 Baked crepes with bread and cheese filling, 287 Baked dumplings with sausage and cheese, 10

Gorgonzola-stuffed celery, 79 Half-moon pasta with ricotta and prime filling, 213 Handcut pasta with cheese and sage sauce, 372 Homemade cheese, 743 Lamb with egg and cheese, 514 Large tomato and mozzarella ravioli, 740-741

Lasagne with

ricotta e

melanzane,

269 Marinated toma cheese, 30 Marinated tomini, 744-745 Marinated tomino cheese, 740

Mascarpone cake with Marsala, 814 Mascarpone cream, 783-784 Meat and cheese souffle, 644 Montasio cheese soup, 138-139 Olive and ricotta calzones, 1 1-12

Abruzzo-style cardoons in sauce, 680

Berry-cheese cream, 783

Braised cardoon, 692

Black polenta, 324

Braised or fried cardoons, 681

Breaded cheese, 744

Cardoon and Jerusalem artichoke

Bucatini with caciocavallo cheese,

Orecchiette with ricotta, 291

288 Buckwheat and cornmeal polenta with cheese, 325-326

Pallotte (cheese

Pasta and cheese pie, 412

Cabbage and cheese soup, 180

Pasta au gratin, 278

Calcioni (fried dumplings with

Pasta with mascarpone, 298

soup, 129

Cardoon and meatball soup, 105 Cardoon soup (Campania), 193 Cardoon soup (Lazio), 128-129 Cardoons gratinee, 680-681 Cardoons in broth 1 (Campania), 110

Cardoons in broth 2 (Abruzzo), 110 Cardoons with egg 1 (Basilicata), 679 Cardoons with egg 2 (Basilicata), 680 Cardoons with truffles, 679 Ratatouille Piedmont-style, 721

Cauliflower Anchovy and cauliflower stew, 103 Cauliflower and olives, 681

912

prosciutto and cheese),

1

Cannarozzetti with ricotta and

223-224 Capri salad, 693 Cassata from Naples, 768 Cassata from Sicilia, 768-769 saffron,

Cheese and egg fritters, 50 Cheese and onion bread in broth, 160 Cheese balls in broth, 157-158 Cheese crisp, 739 Cheese crisp with potatoes, 739 Cheese rolls, 742

and sausage

dumplings), 741

Peasant soup (Valle d’ Aosta), 209 Pizza with artichokes and ricotta,

60-61 Polenta with fontina, 321

Potato and cheese galette, 69

Potatoe puree with cheese, 741

Rice with eggs and cheese, 173 Rice with smoked cheese, 378 Ricotta and egg soup, 97 Ricotta

and sausage dumplings, 82

Ricotta calzoni, 223 Ricotta cheesecake (Piemonte),

785-786

1

Ricotta cheesecake (Sicilia),

800

Chestnut “mountain,” 816-817

Ricotta crostata, 785

Chestnut panzarottini, 832

Ricotta dumplings in broth, "1 71

Chestnut-flour gnocchi, 255

Ricotta mantecata con cialde

Chestnuts with cream, 762-763 Leek and chestnut soup (Piemonte), 144 Leg of lamb with chestnuts, 563-564 Marmellata di castagne, 814 Necci (chestnut-flour crepes), 820 Pumpkin-potato gnocchi, 254 Rice and chestnut soup, 206 Rice with milk and chestnuts, 174 St. Joseph’s pasta, 266 Sweet chestnut polenta, 836 Sweet ravioli, 763 Sweet-and-sour mussels, 457 Tagliatelle and chestnut soup, 147 Tuscan chestnut loaf, 790

(marinated ricotta), 742 Ricotta pie, 843 Ricotta ravioli, 333

768

Ricotta

tart,

Ricotta

tortelli

with sage sauce, 416

833-834 Risotto with Gorgonzola, 350 Ricotta-stuffed cookies,

Risotto with Parmigiano-Reggiano,

355 Risotto with spumante, fontina, and

mushrooms, 357 Soup with salt cheese, 1 50 Spaghetti with pecorino and pepper,

384 Spicy cheese spread, 80 Stuffed dumplings, 293

Chicken

Sweet cheese pastries, 861 Sweet ravioli with ricotta, 849-850

Boiled stuffed capon or hen, 522

ricotta ravioli,

336-337

alia Parmigiana, 664 Turkey breast with prosciutto and fontina, 621

Tripe

Valdostan baked polenta, 323 Valdostan fondue, 738

ricotta tart,

truffles

835-836

with Parmigiano-

Reggiano, 81

Chestnuts Bean and chestnut soup, 106 Boiled chestnuts, 770-771 764

(Lazio), 194

130 rice soup,

129-130

822

Chicken-stuffed turkey, 618 Crostini with liver

and

Chickpea stew, 186 1

(Lazio),

Pasta and chickpea soup 2 (Puglia),

Pasta and chickpea soup 3

(Umbria), 165 Pasta with chickpeas and onion,

231-232 Pasta with chickpeas, 23

Day, 605 Lucy’s soup, 206 Soup of the dead, 128 Tagliatelle and chickpeas with dried St.

peppers, 396 Tagliatelle with chickpeas,

181-182

spleen, 25

“Free-range” risotto with gizzards,

368 Fritto misto alia bolognese,

582

Chicory Bean soup with chicory and

fennel,

127

Giblet stew, 546-547

Callariedde, 107

Giblet stew with eggs, 552

Chicory

Homemade pasta with chicken

Chicory soup, 191

galette,

692

Chicory timbale, 407

281

Hunter-style chicken

1

(Piemonte),

Christmas salad, 694 Eel with wild chicory, 435

Hunter-style chicken 2 (Emilia-

Fava, broccoli, and chicory soup, 191

Vegetables and pancetta, 732

Hunter-style chicken 3 (Toscana),

Wedding soup 4

(Puglia),

Neapolitan pate, 55-56

Chocolate Almond and chocolate 843-844

Onion-glazed beef (or chicken), 509

Almond

Liver pate, 55 braised meats, 522

Pan-fried chicken giblets, 582

Chestnut calzoni, 764

Pan-roasted chicken, 625

Chestnut dumplings, 816

Potato and meat pie, 661

Chestnut fettuccine with cabbage

Rice with chicken

and pork, 241

livers,

152

Risotto with giblets, 365

Skewered chicken giblets, 650 Taglierini in meat sauce, 400

Chestnut mash

Tagliolini in broth with giblets, 183

(Lombardia), 122

Chestnut mash 2 (Piemonte),

Timballo

alia

Bonifacio VIII, 410

Wedding soup

layer cake,

cake glazed with chocolate,

834

Almond tart with

chocolate glaze,

751 175

797 Chestnut fudge, 770 fritters,

1

ravioli, 850 Chickpea soup (Marche), 130 Chickpea soup (Piemonte), 112

Pork and chickpeas for All Soul’s

Mixed

122-123

clams, 162

Chickpea

620 Chicken in tomato sauce, 627 Chicken in white wine, 625 Chicken with onion and tomato sauce, 627

Chestnut cake (Toscana), 770

Chestnut

35

Chickpea puree with shrimp and

626

Chestnut and leek soup (Campania),

balls,

fritters,

Chickpea polenta, 52

Pasta and chickpeas, 266

Romagna), 626

(Umbria), 195

Chestnut

Chickpea-flour

645 Chicken and pasta soup, 1 54 Chicken and ricotta croquettes, 567 Chicken cutlets with Montasio

626 1

Chestnut and chickpea soup 2

Chestnut and

Chickpea flatbread, 27

165

Chicken, veal, pork and guinea hen

giblets,

Boiled chestnuts with butter, 15-16

Chestnut and chickpea soup

(Piemonte), 156 Chickpea crepe, 26-27

Braised rooster, 583

Chicken-liver pate canapes, 25

Cherries Cherry marmalade cookies, 772-773 Cherry strudel, 867 Cherry-almond tart, 873 Duck breast with cherry sauce, 604

Calzoncelli,

Chickpea and pork soup

164-165

cheese,

Veal cutlets with fontina, 642-643

White

(Umbria), 195 Chickpea and bean soup, 124-125

cooked with tomatoes and herbs,

Swiss chard and ricotta, 730

Wheat berry

(Lazio), 194

Chestnut and chickpea soup 2

Pasta and chickpea soup

Spinach-ricotta ravioli, 337

Sweet

Chickpeas Bean stew with beef and ham, 598 Chestnut and chickpea soup 1

5 (Veneto), 152-153

Almond-chocolate

tartlets, 853 Baked rice pudding with chocolate, 757-758 Barbajada, 750 Capri chocolate-almond cake, 872 Chocolate custard, 782-783 Chocolate in the Piedmont, 808

913

1 1

Chocolate

parfaits,

782

Codfish Arezzo-style, 441

Curly endive Wedding soup 4

71

1

Chocolate rolled cake, 802

Codfish Florence-style, 438-439

Chocolate salame, 853

Codfish Trentino-style, 439

Chocolate-stuffed eggs, 885-886

Codfish Vicenza-style, 439^440

Donkey

Coffee and chocolate pie, 881

Creamed cod Veneto-style, 443 Creamed cod Vicenza-style, 443

Cream-filled sponge cake, 889

Fillings for tieUas,

Donkey and cabbage stew, 658 Donkey stew (Emilia Romagna), 654 Donkey stew (Lombardia), 653

Drunken

Fried baccala

Christmas spice cookies, 857

786

toasts,

Eggplant with chocolate, 814-815 Figs with chocolate, 793

biscuits,

806 837

cream with chocolate sauce, 781 trifle, 890 Rolled chocolate cake, 852 Spiced nut cake fromTemi, 824 Stuffed figs, 794 Sweet ravioli, 763 Torta Novecento (sponge cake), 883 Triestine yeast cake, 847 Walnut filled pizza, 842 Watermelon ice, 803 Wheat-berry pudding 1, 787 Wheat-berry pudding 2, 805 Ice

Ladyfinger

Clams Cannelichhje e fafe, 109

Chickpea puree with shrimp and clams, 162

Clam

soup, 125

Clams

in parsley

balls, 66 460-461 438 Maremma-style “cooked water” soup 1 (Lazio), 95 Mariner’s stockfish, 493 Poached cod, 442^143 Roast cod, 440 “St. Joseph’s Lunch,” 329 Salt cod fritters (Campania), 504 Stockfish and potato stew, 491 Stockfish and potatoes 1 (Campania), 494 Stockfish and potatoes 2 (Alto Adige), 494 Stockfish with capers, 495 Stockfish with potatoes and onions, 495 Stockfish with tomato sauce, 494 Stockfish with tomatoes and potatoes, 495 Sweet-and-sour cod stew, 504 Ventricieddi di stocco al pomodoro, 502

Fried cod

fillets,

Grilled cod,

Friulian yeast cake,

Honey

340-341

and wine, 503

Linguine with razor clams, 272

Razor clams

Coffee

Rice with crabs and razor clams,

342

Almond

Risotto with clams, 364-365

763

Coffee ice cream, 828-829

shellfish in

risotto,

Seafood salad

1

dough, 446

353-354 (Campania), 39-40

40 Spaghetti with clams, 386 Vermicelli and seafood baked 420-421 Seafood salad 2

(Sicilia),

in

foil,

Codfish Acquacotta

laziale, 94 Bathed bread, 98-99

Boiled cod (Toscana), 483

Boiled stockfish with potatoes, 493

Braised cod and potatoes, 440-441

Cod and

potato stew

1

(Piemonte),

492 Cod and potato stew 2 (Calabria), 492 Cod fritters (Umbria), 462 Cod in parsley, 442

Cod in

sauce (Friuli- Venezia

Giulia),

438

Cod in sauce (Sicilia), 437 Cod in wine, 437 Cod with green olives, 466 Cod with raisins and prunes, 441 Cod with tomatoes, raisins, and pine nuts,

914

442

Duckling

fillet

with poppies,

515-516 Fish stew with duck, 658-659

Gnocchi with duck sauce, 254 Mallard in sauce, 586 Pappardelle in duck sauce, 295-296 Stuffed duck, 516

Stuffed roast duck, 5 1 6-5 1

Wild duck

risotto,

352

436 Bolsena eels in the

style

of Bisentina,

430 Eel in sauce, 436

Sauteed clams, 483

Seafood

Duck terrine, 82 Duck with fruit, 615-616 Duck with olives, 615 Duck with rice, 215

Anguilla infilzata (skewered eels), coffee,

Coffee and chocolate pie, 881

Sea bass and

Duck Baked mallard, 586 Bigoli with duck 1 (Piemonte), 218 Bigoli with duck 2 (Veneto), 218 Duck breast with cherry sauce, 604 Duck stuffed with sausage and liver, 517 Duck stuffed with veal and pork, 517

Eel

108

in broth,

152

(Puglia),

Cornmeal Buckwheat and cornmeal polenta with cheese, 325-326 Buckwheat pasta with toasted cornmeal, 219-220 Cornmeal and raisin cake, 844 Cornmeal cookies, 886-887 Cornmeal fritters, 75 Cornmeal fruitcake, 753 Cornmeal pasta with tomatoes, 271 Cornmeal pizza, 62 Cornmeal raisin cookies, 804 Cornmeal sponge cake, 845 Corn pone with turnips, 317 Spinach-commeal soup (FriuliVenezia Giulia), 161

Sweet cornmeal bread, 825

Couscous Cuscus, 236

Cuscus con zuppa di pesce, 237 Cuscus siciliano, 238

Crabs

Eel with plums, 432 Eel with Savoy cabbage, 432 Eel with wild chicory, 435 Eels

and

trout in a spicy sauce,

Eels Giovi-style,

435

430-43

Eels Labrese-style, 43

Fried

eel,

433

Fried eel marinated in vinegar sauce,

483-484 Glassmaker’s

43

eel,

Grilled eel in grape leaves,

Hunter-style

Marinated

eels,

eel

452

430

(Emilia-Romagna),

434-435 Marinated Risotto

eel (Lazio),

and

Spit-roasted

eels,

176

eel,

432

452

Stewed eel, 433 Stewed eel with peas (EmiliaRomagna), 434 Stewed eel with peas (Veneto), 433—434 Stewed eels and perch, 496-497 Vermicelli with eel sauce, 42

Fried soft-shell crabs, 467

Rice with crabs and razor clams,

342 Spider crab canapes, 38

Eggplant Baked eggplant, 699 Baked macaroni with eggplant, 407

1

1

Baked pasta with eggplant 1 (Calabria), 297 Baked pasta with eggplant 2 (Calabria), 339

Baked omelet with pork and potatoes, 690 Baked rigatoni with braised pork and eggs, 402-403

Pizza con

Calabrian “Purgatory” vegetable

Benevento-style lasagne with veal

Endive

meatballs and eggs, 267-268

sandwiches, 719

Eggplant and mint, 700

Cavatelli with eggs

Eggplant and sausage, 700 balls,

Cheese and egg

Eggplant

bites,

Easter

715 716 Eggplant boats, 697-698

704-

Eggplant 705- braised with tomatoes, 700

Eggplant Parmigiana

(Campania),

1

706-705 Eggplant Parmigiana 2 (Puglia),

706 Eggplant Parmigiana 3

(Sicilia),

707 Eggplant

pie,

730

frittata,

fritters,

Egg

cocktail, 85 Eggs and mushrooms, 88 Eggs in garlic sauce, 88 Emperor’s frittata, 796 Floating islands, 860 Fried eggs in sauce, 87 Frittata diVitalba, 32 Frittata with ground meat, 34

Frittati

Eggplant with chocolate, 814-815

31

Eggplants and tomatoes, 701-702

Hops

con

erbe (herb

le

Anchovies with endive, 429

Liver and escarole, 574

Meatless ravioli

ravioli,

Stuffed and baked escarole, frittata),

722-723 Stuffed and braised escarole, 722 Wild herbs and meat soup, 153

egg-drop soup, 180-181

Italian

Fried eggplant with tomato sauce,

Lamb stew with eggs, 642 Lamb with egg and cheese, 514

Farro

Leftover pasta omelet, 244

Farro and pig’s

“Gendarme

hat” pasta pie, 225-226

Lasagne with 269

Melanzane

ricotta e

melanzane,

Marjoram broth with poached

eggs,

Beans and grains, 686 Farro porridge, Farro soup

168-169

sott’aceto (pickled

331-332

Pizza with escarole, 61-62

Fried eggplant sandwiches, 698

699

(Liguria),

1

334-335

Mixed meat

32

frittata,

(pizza

Escarole Baked escaraole, 723 Bean, escarole, and pork soup, 198 Escarole soup, 147 Escarole with meatballs, 722 Fillings for tiellas, 340-341

50

33

Frittata with whitebait, 3

Eggplant roll-ups, 695

sambuco

and pancetta,

230-231

Eggplant

fiori di

with elderberry flowers), 64

Sweet cornmeal bread, 825

Meringues, 815

1

trotters, 1

572

14-1 15

(Abruzzo), 134-135

Farro soup 2 (Marche), 135 Farro soup 3 (Molise), 135

Music-paper bread with poached eggs, 291 Orange mousse, 819

Farro soup 4 (Toscana), 136 Farro soup 5 (Umbria), 136

Minestrone with pesto, 155

Pizze di Pasqua (Easter pizza), 846

Farro with zucchini flowers, 115

100-flavor eggplant, 701

Rice and egg soup,

Pan-fried beef and vegetables, 579

Rice with eggs and cheese, 173

Fava beans

Pasta with fried eggplants, 300

Ricotta and egg soup, 97

Artichoke and fava bean stew, 682

Peppers stuffed with eggplant,

Ring breads with eggs, 775 Salame frittata 1 (Piemonte), 33 Salame frittata 2 (Veneto), 34 Sausage frittata (Lombardia), 30-31 Sausage frittata (Piemonte), 579 Sausage soup, 193 Scrambled eggs with artichokes, 692 Scrambled eggs with peppers, 672

eggplant), 701

Melanzane

sott’olio (pickled

eggplant),

702

710-711 Potato and vegetable gratin,

405—406 676

Sicilian caponata,

Sicilian-style vermicelli,

421

Spaghetti with eggplant and ricotta salata,

Spring

299

risotto,

371

1

27

Stuffed eggplants, 702

Shepherd’s bread soup, 61

Tomato soup, 1 56

Spaghetti with carbonara sauce,

Tripe with eggplant and walnuts,

665-666 Twice-fried eggplant sandwiches,

698-699

Spiced cabbage with egg, 714 frittata strips,

86

Veal parmigiana with eggplant, 616

Stuffed dumplings, 293

Vegetable-ragu, 172-173

Stuffed eggs, 87-88

Vegetable soup (Piemonte), 157

Tagliatelle in

Vegetable stew, 112

Toasted broth, 104

Vegetable stew (Basilicata), 681-682

Vegetable

Vegetable stew with celery, 682

Vol-au-vent with radicchio and

egg sauce, 397-398

fritters,

689

cheese, 88-89

Eggs

Zabaglione, 886

Anise cookies, 748

Zabaglione with rum, 886

Asparagus with egg sauce, 672-673 Asparagus with fried eggs, 672

Baked artichokes with egg sauce, 677 Baked meringues, 865

191 1

(Calabria), 121

Fava bean puree 2 (Sicilia), 122 Fava bean soup (Lazio), 190 Fava bean soup (Puglia), 118

Fava beans and anchovies, 688 Fava beans and chicory

1

(Puglia),

688-689 Fava beans and chicory 2 (Basilicata),

689

Fava beans and guanciale

382-383 Spaghetti with fried eggs, 383

Stewed

Fava, broccoli, and chicory soup,

Fava bean puree

1

(Lazio),

687 Fava beans and guanciale 2 (Lazio), 687-688 Fava beans in vinegar sauce, 688 Fava puree, 718-719 Fava-bean fritters, 52 Fettuccine with white fava beans,

238 Fresh fava bean soup, 198

Lamb with fava beans, 545 Onion and

fava bean soup, 195

Pasta and fava beans, 305 Pasta and fava-bean cubes, 44

Elderberries and elderberry

Sausage and fava bean stew, 573

flowers

Spring vegetable stew (Lazio), 185

Meat pie with

elderberry, 83

Minestra di sondalo, 146

Spring vegetable stew

(Sicilia),

728

915

Tiny square pasta and fava beans,

Mackerel in vinegar, 488 Marinated

171

Wedding soup

(Calabria), 151

1

2

1

1

skate,

Insalata di gallina cotta nel fieno

480

(hen cooked in hay), 40

Marinated tope (shark), 469

Mallard in sauce, 586

Missoltini alia gratella (shad),

Fennel Bean and wild fennel soup, 196-197 Bean soup with chicory and fennel, 127

Monkfish with

olives,

Pan-fried whitebait,

46

491

444

Pasta squares with John Dory, 391 Pickled fish

(Abruzzo), 77

1

11

Myrde-scented hen, 631 Pheasant in Spanish sauce, 568 Pheasant or guinea hen in sauce, 569 Pheasant with truffle, 569-570 Rich risotto Padua-style, 371-372

Callariedde, 107

Pike croquettes, 460

Roast guinea hen, 571

Carp roasted with wild fennel, 453-454 Goose with fennel, 612 Pappardelle with quail and fennel, 296 Pork with potatoes and fennel, 553 Rabbit with fennel, 555 Rabbit with wild fennel, 555 Rice with fennel and ricotta, 348 Risotto with fennel, 349 Roast stuffed rabbit with fennel, 562 Snails with fennel, 602 Tagliatelle with wild fennel, 394 Wedding soup 4 (Puglia), 152

Pike in anchovy sauce, 465

Scaliger soup,

Pike in sauce, 465

Spiedo bresciano or polenta e

Fennel seeds

Genoa

biscotti,

Pike in tomato sauce, 464

—

and baked, 464 Pike-perch in cream, 471-472 Pike-perch in shrimp and mushroom sauce, 477 Risotto with Lake Garda tench, 363 Risotto with perch and zucchini flowers, 358 Risotto with tench, 362 Shad in green sauce, 428 Skate soup with pasta, 127-128 Pike

fried, grilled,

Stewed

fruits

and nuts,

825-826 Figs

eels

fig-filled

Christmas

788 Baked fig and nut calzone, 820 Figs with chocolate, 793 Flatbread with dried figs, 858 Stuffed figs, 794 cookies,

Mixed seafood

Fish. See also

429 Angler in tomato sauce, 479 Baked sturgeon, 496 Baked whitebait, 444 Batter-dipped whitebait, 444 Agoni

alia

navett (shad),

Bianchetti fritters, 35

Boiled pike, 466

Braised catfish

1

(Emilia-Romagna),

471

olives,

Tench and

1

Tench and

Mandarin

tagliolini

soup

tagliolini

soup 2

496

(Lazio),

(Umbria), 148

Tench soup, 447 Tope (shark) and mushrooms, 470 Turbot Grado-style, 103 Whitebait frittata, 461 Whitebait soup, 136-137

soup), 204

Fowl Baked mallard, 586 Baked pasta pie, 375 Baked pasta with hen and broth, 176-177 all

chiampese (woodcock),

Fried

fish,

477

Fried pike croquettes, 464-465

Fried shad, 427 Fried tope (shark), 470 Frittata with whitebait, 3

Grouper in sauce, 456 Halibut and seafood stew, 457 Herb-stuffed gilthead bream, 469

916

in a kid,

585

alia

intestine),

643

Scannature d’abbacchio in padella

Stewed

arzignanese

with anolini and prosciutto

Gallina cotta nel capretto (hens in a kid),

Grilled guinea

534

Tyrolean chamois, 527-528

Goose Foie gras, 643

sauce, 226

Drunken hen, 584 cooked

kid,

Stuffed kid, 536

(woodcock), 519

Capon

Sanguinaccio di capra (stuffed goat’s

(cooked goat’s blood), 645

Braised rooster, 583

335-336

Chamois in onion sauce, 528 Goat and beans, 533-534 Goat braised with mushrooms, 536 Goat in sauce, 532 Goat stew, 532-533 Goat with tomatoes and pepper, 532

Kid in oil and vinegar, 535 Kid in wine, 535 Leg of kid with oregano, 534-535 Marro (Puglia), 607 Mutton stew with potatoes, 656 Roast intestines, 650-65

di Pesce di lago (lake fish

(perch), 454 Carp roasted with wild 453-454

ravioli,

Abbuoto, 511

Grilled kid, 535

Boiled meats Padua-style, 587-588

Fried catfish, 470-471

804

Zuppa

Beccacce

Fish

gelatin,

Goat

Hens cooked

Carbonaretti del Lago di Piediluco

Diamante-style grouper, 456-457

802-803

Hunter’s-style kid offal, 563

Bucatini in mackerel sauce, 221

fennel,

gelatin,

Whitefish in white wine, 463

520

(Campania), 14

Blood-orange

pear gelatin), 803

45 and perch, 496-497

Sturgeon with capers and

Beccacce

1

Gelatin

Stuffed gar fish or pike, 458

Braised catfish 2 (Veneto), 471

Caponata

Frogs Frog leg risotto, 352-353 Frog risotto, 365 Ranocchi fritti (fried frogs), 637 Sauteed frogs, 636

Gelatine di fichi d’India (prickly

148

Almond and

uccelli

650

Stuffed hen Cremona-style, 583

Gelatina (beef gelatin), 37

Soused bream, 445 Soused shad, 428 Squillfish with garlic,

754

Sweet bread with

187-188

(polenta and birds),

585

hen with bay

leaves,

571

Guinea hen pate, 570-571 Guinea hen with black pepper sauce, 571-572 Guinea hen with mascarpone, 570 Hen galantine, 592 Hen with pheasant stuffing, 572

Gnocchi with goose sauce, 251 Goose confit contadina-style, 611 Goose ragu, 635 Goose with cabbage, 611 Goose with fennel, 6 1 Maccheroni alia mulinara, 280 Preserved smoked goose, 612 Salame d’oca (goose salame), 70

Smoked goose Thick

confit,

bigoli with

mushroom

61

goose and

sauce, 219

4

)

Grape leaves

3

1

Beef broth with barley

flour, mint,

Borage soup, 193 Chicken, veal, pork and guinea hen

Grape must Mostarda

48

di carpi (fruit sauce),

cooked with tomatoes and herbs, 645

Savor, 855

“Cooked water”

Grapes

“Cooked water” soup with wild

Casentino-stvle

Grappa

fritters,

793

Greens Butter greens salad with

bacon dressing, 693 Dandelion and pancetta

warm salad,

693

Easter spring greens pie, 730 Field greens in butter, 685

Misticanza (mixed greens), 703

’Ndugghia

di Castrovillari,

705

Orecchiette with turnip tops, 290 Pan-fried greens, 732

Pizza with turnip greens, 60

campion and

onion, 359

Prato (spring herb soup), 153

359

Pasta stuffed with sweetbreads and

“Strange” greens, 732 Strigoli (sauteed

borage, 285-286

campion), 729

Turnip greens soup,

1

Pasta with mint, 388-389

13-1 14

Wild greens with

lardo,

Ricotta and egg soup, 97

719-720

raperonzolo, 186

Stewed

with herbs, 603-604

snails

Swordfish with mint, 474 Tagliatelle with

herb sauce, 392

Hare

Tiny dumplings

Baked game, 639-640 Hare in pepper sauce, 597 Hare in sauce (Abruzzo), 594 Hunter’s-style hare, 593-594

Tredici erbe (“thirteen herb

Jugged hare

1

Wild herb soup, 131 Wild herbs and meat soup, 153

Hops Hops

Mignuic or

116

(Piemonte), 595

596-597

Giulia),

in herb broth,

887

liqueur”),

Jugged hare 2 (Lombardia), 596 Jugged hare 3 (Friuli-Venezia cavatielli,

288

( luvertis

Black-bread gnocchi with hops, 264 frittata,

Risotto with

hop

shoots,

368

Horsemeat

Hazelnuts Baked amaretto peaches, 838 Canastrelli of Piemonte, 765 Hazelnut cake, 878 Hazelnut cookies, 885 Hazelnut trifle, 789 Spiced nut cake from Terni, 824 Yellow cake with

fruit,

831

Herbs laziale, 94 Baked prosciutto and herb

Acquacotta

pie,

312

580

pasta with

582 meat and

tomato, 278 Hunter’s-style suckling lamb, 508

Hunter-style lamb (Marche), 510 Hunter-style mutton, 544 Involtini di interiora di agnelli

(roasted

lamb

offal),

590

Lamb and artichoke fricassee, 578-579 Lamb and peas, 5 1 Lamb and potatoes (Puglia), 512 Lamb fricassee, 514 Lamb in white sauce, 515

Lamb intestines Viterbo-style, Lamb offal with artichokes, 562 Lamb ragu, 330 Lamb soup, 189-190 Lamb stew (Molise), 647 Lamb stew (Puglia), 568 Lamb stew with cheese and egg sauce, 511

Lamb stew with eggs, 642 Lamb stew with tomatoes, 527 Lamb tripe in tomato sauce, Lamb with fava beans, 545 Lamb with hops, 514 Lamb with olives, 512 Lamb with truffle, 515 Larded leg of lamb, 564 Leg of lamb baked in embers, 510 Leg of lamb with chestnuts, 563-564 Maccaronara di Montemarano, 276 Marro (Puglia), 607 Mixed fry Alba-style, 580

Mixed

fry Ascolo-Piceno-style,

Molise-style ragu,

Stewed hare, 598 Trentino-style hare, 595

offal,

Fritto misto alia bolognese,

582-583

32

Lamb with hops, 514

Pappardelle in hare sauce, 294-295

Easter lamb (Puglia), 513

662-663

Rice and wild herbs, 174

Vegetable pie (Piemonte), 54

al

Minestra maritata 2 (wedding soup 2, Campania), 141 Minestra primaverile di erbe di

Risotto with campion, 360-361

Risotto with wild greens,

Zuppa

Minestra di riso (rustic soup with wild plants), 144

Polenta with spring greens, 326-327

e piselli

525-526

Marinated zucchini with mint,

733-734

Pasta with turnip tops, 304-305

Risotto with bladder

“Crazy water” soup, 92 Eggplant and mint, 700 Fish soup with herbs, 113 Frittati con le erbe (herb frittata), 31 Frittelle di maresina, 36 Herb-stuffed gilthead bream, 469 Herb-stuffed pasta, 292-293 Marche-style “cooked water” soup, 93 Maremma-style “cooked water” soup 1 (Lazio), 95 Maremma-style “cooked water” soup 2 (Toscana), 95-96

risi,

(lamb’s neck), 554

Homemade

herbs, 93

Grappa

Collo de castrato,

Easter lamb (Basilicata), 524

Fried lamb

soup, 92

Grape jam, 8 1 3-8 1 Grape syrup, 69

Budelline di agnello di faicchio

(lamb intestines), 525 Capunti with lamb sauce, 226-227

and pecorino, 181

Grilled eel in grape leaves„452

Vine-roasted artichokes, 678

1

Horsemeat stew (Emilia-Romagna), 624 Horsemeat stew (Veneto), 618 Meatballs, 632

635-636

Mushrooms in lamb Mutton pot, 624

sauce,

538

Mutton ragu, 635 Mutton sauce, 619 Mutton stew 1 (Abruzzo), 636 Mutton stew 2 (Abruzzo), 649 Mutton stew with potatoes, 656 Paliata (grilled calf’s intestines),

Lamb

Pan-braised lamb, 545

Abbuoto, 511

Pezzata, 622

Baked lamb and potatoes, 513 Baked lamb with egg and cheese, 511-512 Baked leg of lamb (Abruzzo), 510 Baked mutton, 609 Baked mutton shank, 65

Roast

intestines,

616

650-65

Roast suckling lamb with potatoes,

508 Roast young lamb, 544 Salame di agnello (lamb sausage), 640

917

1

1

Sauteed kidneys on toast, 637 Skewered lamb, 518 Smoked meat with polenta “sauce,” 621 Stewed suckling lamb Roman-style, 508-509

Country-style

1

574 and spleen, 25 sausage and liver,

liver,

Crostini with liver

Duck stuffed with 517

Fish soup Ravenna-style, 447 Fish soup with herbs,

13

1

Fish stew, 448 Fish stew Livorno-style, 449

Foie gras, 643

Fish stewTermoli-style, 104

Liver and escarole, 574

Fish stew Viareggio-style, 449-450

Liver and onions Venetian-style, 575

Fish stew with duck, 658-659

Stuffed sheep tripe, 632-633

Liver pate, 55

Fritelle di

Stuffed tripe (Molise), 610

Pork-liver skewers,

Testarelle d’abbacchio in teglia

Rice with chicken

655

Stracotto di pecora (lamb stew),

(lambs’ heads), Torcinelli,

Zuppa

660

Riso con

206

343 Skewered pork

415

di soffritto,

i

anemone

175

Lake Garda

livers,

fegatini (rice

and

livers),

Lampascioni (wild hyacinth

Taglierini in

bulbs)

Tagliolini in broth with giblets,

Lampascioni Lampascioni

ffitti,

in agrodolce (sweet-

di

183

risotto,

243-244

Boiled lobster, 436-437

and-sour muscari), 697

Sformato

meat sauce, 400

Lobster Baked seafood

lampascioni con salsa di

Seafood and vegetable

726

Spaghetti and lobster, 387

platter,

Seafood

di

tomola (Fisherman’s

353-354

risotto,

Tuscan seafood stew, 45 Vermicelli and seafood baked 420-421

Zuppa Zuppa

di Pesce (fish soup),

in foil,

202

di Pesce di lago (lake fish

soup), 204

Zuppa

Linguine with lobster, 273

sedano (muscari and potatoes),

(sea

35

soup, 192

Dinner), 162

125

694

696

mare

di

fritters),

fish

Linguine with seafood, 273-274

Pappone 575

liver,

Tagliatelle with chicken livers,

Insalata di lampascioni,

anemoni

573-574

453

di pesce gallipolina

(Gallipoli-style fish soup),

205

Mixed vegetables Milk and cream

Lard Calabrian-style pasta with lardo

and

Country-style

liver,

Amaretti pudding, 762

Blancmange, 752 Blancmange with amaretti, 756

onion, 280

574

Country-style risotto, 355

Larded leg of lamb, 564 Lardo di Amad, 42 Wild greens with lardo, 719-720 Ziti with lardo, 283

“Burned broth,” 104 Coffee ice cream, 828-829

Cream

baskets,

83

Custard, 772

Baked vegetable soup with black bread and barley, 188 Easter

tart,

85

582 Grandma’s prosciutto and beans, 717 Half-moon pasta with spinach and ricotta filling, 214-215

Fritto misto alia bolognese,

809 Floating islands, 860

Minestrone, 154

Leeks

Fried custard squares, 810

Minestrone with pesto, 155

Chestnut and leek soup (Campania),

Fried milk, 42-43

Homemade

Mixed Mixed

Ice

Spring vegetable stew (Lazio), 185

130

Leek and chestnut soup (Piemonte), 144 Polenta with leeks, 319-320

Potato and leek soup, 203 Risotto with cream of leek, 353

Rough-cut pasta with

leeks,

285

Veal stew “White Lady,” 578

Lemons Lemon pudding, 760 Lemon sorbet, 864 Lemon verbena liqueur,

Custard

tart,

cheese, 743 cream with chocolate sauce, 781 Ladyfinger trifle, 890 Milk fritters, 800 Orange custard, 782 Peach and amaretti semifreddo, 861 Rice with milk and chestnuts, 174 Rose pudding, 762 Rum custard, 783

Semolina pudding, 761 Vanilla

panna

cotta,

832

Minestrone with

126

basil,

36 580

fried vegetables,

fry Alba-style,

Spring vegetable stew

(Sicilia),

Vegetable

fritters,

689

Vegetable pastries, 262

Vegetable pie (Valle d’Aosta), 707 Vegetable ragu, 172-173 Vegetable soup (Calabria), 201 Vegetable soup (Piemonte), 157 Vegetable soup with squash and

81

Mixed seafood 272 risotto, 243-244 “mucco rosso,” 463

Semolina cake, 816

Baked seafood Baked seafood

Limoncello, 810

Crespelle di

linguine,

barley,

199

Vegetable stew, 112 Vegetable timbale, 377 Vegetables and pancetta, 732

00

Lentils

Fish and vegetable soup, 106

Bean and grain mush, 109 Beans and grains, 686 Le virtu (Virtues Soup), 185 Lentil and crostini soup, 200

Fish in walnut sauce, 448

Fish soup (Veneto), 204

Bucatini with mullet sauce, 221

Lentil soup, 138

Fish soup Ancona-style, 100-101

Mullet baked in parchment

Pasta and

Fish soup Brindisi-style, 205

lentil

soup, 167

Fish pastries, 262

Fish soup (Sardegna), 455

Fish soup Fano-style, 102

Liver

Fish soup from Porto Recanati,

102-103

Abbuoto, 511

Breaded pork

liver,

573

Chicken-liver pate canapes, 25

918

728

Spring vegetables with vinegar, 690 Vegetable and bean stew, 173

Winter vegetable soup,

1

Mullet Baked mullet, 500 1

(Abruzzo), 499

Mullet baked in parchment 2

(Campania), 500 Mullet with plum tomato, 500

Fish soup Marano-style, 101

Mullet with Vemaccia, 501

Fish soup Pescara-style, 447

Pasta with bottarga 2

(Sicilia),

303

15

Pasta with whitemullet,

281-282

Roast striped mullet, 455-456

Veal cutlets with

1

mushroom

Spaghetti with anchovies, olives, and

caps,

643-644

capers,

384

Stuffed olives, 46-47

Vegetable stuffing, 733

Stuffed mullet, 501

Sturgeon with capers and

Mushrooms Baked mushroom crespelle, 310 Baked polenta with meat sauce 1 (Lombardia), 324-325 Baked polenta with meat sauce 2 (Emilia-Romagna), 325 Caesar’s

mushrooms with truffles,

47 Eggs and mushrooms, 88 Fried mushrooms, 691 Fusilli with mushrooms and olives, 245 Gnocchi stuffed with mushrooms, 260 Layered polenta with sausage and mushrooms, 287-288 Linguine with mushrooms, 271 Little stuffed

dumplings, 294

Mushroom and truffle salad, 39 Mushroom meatballs, 66 Mushroom sauce, 412 Mushroom soup (Emilia-Romagna), 199

Mushroom soup (Trentino), 105 Mushrooms in broth, 36-37 Mushrooms in lamb sauce, 538 Mushrooms with loin and sausage, 546

Mushrooms

with tomatoes, 37

Tielle de Gaeta,

Halibut and seafood stew, 457

Beef steaks with onion, 564

475

Mariner’s spaghetti, 386

Calabrian-style pasta with lardo and

Mussel soup, 201

onion, 280 Cheese sauce with potatoes and onions, 738-739

Mussels au gratin (Abruzzo), 21 Mussels au gratin (Puglia), 459 Mussels au gratin with lemon, 459 Puglia-style mussels,

Sea bass and

458

shellfish in

mushrooms, 376

Stuffed mussels (Puglia), 459

Sweet-and-sour mussels, 457

and seafood baked 420-421

Vermicelli

in

foil,

Onion and fava bean soup, 195 Onion pizzas, 2 Onion soup (Piemonte), 195 Onion soup with bread, 1 96 Onion-glazed beef (or chicken), 509

Octopus

Onions

Fillings for tiellas,

340-341

in the

Piedmontese

tradition,

19

Octopus in wine 1 (Lazio), 478 Octopus in wine 2 (Calabria), 478 Stewed octopus “in purgatory,” 479 Stewed octopus, 479 Troccoli al ragu di polpo, 418 Vermicelli and seafood baked in foil, 420-421 Olive

oil

Acquacotta

laziale,

oil,

94

lemon, and

(Calabria),

mushrooms and

garlic,

232-233

Olive

oil,

Onions stuffed with meat, 18 Pasta with meat sauce and onions, 279 Rabbit and onions, 559-560 Risotto with salame

and onion, 366 and onions,

Stockfish with potatoes

495 Stuffed onions, 727

Olive

oil

garlic sauce

1

garlic sauce 2

74-75

soup, 203

405

olives,

Cauliflower and olives, 681

633-634 Rice and mushrooms, 348 Rigatoni with sausage and mushrooms, 338-339 Risotto with honey mushrooms, 360 Risotto with mushrooms, 349 Risotto with spumante, fontina, and mushrooms, 357 Saffron risotto with mushrooms, 354 Shrimp and porcini gratin, 487-488 Small gnocchi with ricotta and porcini, 248-249

Cod with green olives, 466 Duck with olives, 6 1

salad with

mushrooms, 743 Thick bigoli with goose and mushroom sauce, 219 Timballo alia Bonifacio VIII, 410 Tope and mushrooms, 470

Fusilli

with

olives,

802-803

Mandarin gelatin, 804 Orange cake, 872 Orange custard, 782 Orange marmalade, 813 Orange mousse, 819 Orange-peel balls, 822

5

Quail in pastry with mushrooms,

Focaccia with

gelatin,

Chocolate custard, 782-783

Olives

Bread with

Oranges Blood-orange

nut cake, 842

659 gratin,

Sweet-and-sour onions, 684 onions, 499 Wild onion fritters, 690-691 Wild onion soup, 189

Tuna and

74

lemon, and

(Sicilia),

Pork with potatoes and mushrooms,

Smoked scamorza

684 340-341

Liver and onions Venetian-style, 575

Meatless stuffed onions, 18-19

Stuffed mussels, 22

Olive

Pasta with black olives and

mushroom

Cipolline d’lvrea, Fillings for tiellas ,

dough, 446

Olio santo, 50

283

Potato-mushroom

406

Onions

Sweet onion soup, 109-1 10

Pan-cooked mushrooms, 48 Pasta with beans and mushrooms,

Potato and

496

Swordfish with olives and capers,

Ovoli in fricassea, 706

Pasta with

olives,

Mussels Baked rice with mussels and potatoes, 404 Baked rice with seafood, 406 Crostini with mussels, 24-25

28-29

mushrooms and

olives,

Oranges with anchovies, 3 Sardinian orange slices, 749

245

Lamb with olives, 512 Linguine with anchovies, capers,

Parsley olives,

and

273

Monkfish with olives, 49 Olive and ricotta calzones, 1 1-12 Olive bread, 67 Pasta with black olives and mushrooms, 376 Rabbit with peppers and olives, 560 Salad of crushed olives, 694 San Remo rabbit, 559 Soupy pasta with cauliflower and black olives, 164

Clams

Cod

and wine, 503 442

in parsley

in parsley,

Fried tuna with lemon and parsley,

458 Green sauce

for boiled meat, 5

Trout with parsley sauce, 502

Pasta Baked fusilli and orecchiette, 246 Baked gnocchi with fior di latte cheese and tomato sauce, 253 Baked pasta with eggplant, 297

919

6

Baked pasta with hen and broth, 176-177 Baked sweet ravioli, 848 Baked tagliolini, 217 Baked tortellini, 313 Baked winter pasta, 297-298 Bean and pasta soup, 197 Benevento-style lasagne with veal meatballs and eggs, 267-268

Manatelle, 286

Strengozzi with garlic,

Pan-cooked pasta with pork, tomato, and red wine, 283 Panzerotti, 295

Stuffed gnocchi in cheese sauce, 258

Passatelli in broth,

163

Passatelli in fish broth,

163-164

Pasta and bean soup (Piemonte), 180

Pasta and bean soup 3 (Emilia-

Bucatini in tomato sauce, 275

Pasta au gratin, 278

Bucatini with caciocavallo cheese,

Pasta “crosses,” 233-234

and tomato, 221 Buckwheat pasta with toasted cornmeal, 2 1 9-220 Busiati with pesto,

Pasta squares with John Dory, 391 Pasta squares with meat sauce, 391 Pasta stuffed with squash, 224-225

and

onion, 280

223-224

Cappelletti in broth,

108-109

and potatoes,

111

Chicken and pasta soup, 154 Chicken broth with grated pasta, 167 ravioli,

Pasta with beans (Abruzzo), 373

sauce,

Christmas macaroni, 121

277

Vermicelli in garlic

Cornmeal pasta with tomatoes, 271 meat sauce, 239 and bread, 239 Fettuccine “Alfredo,” 240 Fettuccine with ricotta, 240 Ferretti with anchovies

with lardo, 283

Ziti

with meatballs, 309

Pasta-water pick-me-up, 177

Pastry

Pastina in fish sauce, 168

Almond and

gnocchi, 805

cookies,

“Priest caps,”

“Priest chokers” with salsify sauce,

390

with

246

mushrooms and

spinach, 235 Sausage-filled pasta with butter,

Garganelli with peas and prosciutto,

247

Sfoglia,

227

377

Small butter gnocchi in broth, 248

“Gendarme hat” Gnocchi

Lunch,” 329 St. Joseph’s pasta, 266 Sardinian-style stuffed pasta with

olives,

in

pasta pie, 225-226 meat sauce, 252-253

Small gnocchi

made

breadcrumbs

in

with

bean sauce, 247

Gnoccoli with tuna sauce, 261

Small Sardinian gnocchi with meat

Grated pasta in broth, 167

sauce, 284 Soup with shaved pasta

Griddled pasta, 403-404

Homemade

pasta with meat and

tomato, 278

Homemade garlic,

pasta with tomatoes and

313

Homemade

316 Honeyed gnocchi, 804-805 Jam ravioli, 848 Large tomato and mozzarella ravioli, 740-741 Le trofie recchesi, 420 Long-cooked pasta with stew and broth, 279 Macaroni with arugula, 276 Maccaronara di Montemarano, 276

920

twisted pasta,

1

(Lombardia), 142

Soup with shaved

pasta 2

(Lombardia, also called

gratin),

Anise

fritters

Anisette

with honey, 777

fritters,

crepes),

860

788-789

Apple and pear cake, 877 Apple Charlotte, 773-774 Apple dumplings, 807 Apple fritters, 797-798 Apple fritters with Moscato wine, 798 Apple strudel, 867-868 Apple tart, 777 Apple tart with mostarda, 877 Babas with rhum, 749-750 Baked apple pastry, 784 Baked sweet ravioli, 848 Biscotti from Prosto, 755 Boiled and baked cookies, 776 “Bones of the dead” cookies, 822 Braided cookies, 870 Buckwheat cake, 875-876 Butter cake (Lombardia), 855

143 Spaghetti baked in

foil,

Butter cake (Veneto), 796

380

Spaghetti with garlic, olive

oil,

and

hot pepper, 379 Spaghetti with garlic and

oil,

277

Spaghetti with guanciale, 380

Spaghetti with peppers, tomatoes,

and guanciale, 299 248

887-888 765 766 Carnival cookies, 774 Carnival fritters, 884 Carnival ring cake, 778 Cescent cookies, 787 Cherry marmalade cookies, 772-773 Cherry strudel, 867 Calabrian

fritters,

Canastrelli of Piemonte,

chili

pepper, 280 Spaghetti with garlic and

Spatzle,

Christmas

with chocolate glaze,

Apostles’ fingers (Ricotta-stuffed

Rice and pasta baked with meatballs,

“St. Joseph’s

245

fig-filled

788

tart

Anise ring cookies, 776

Roman-style gnocchi, 253

Fruit ravioli, 863

420

751

meat sauce,

390

Fried small gnocchi, 249-250

Fusilli

Almond

225

“Priest chokers” with

Fried pasta ribbons, 772

Fusilli alia molisana,

oil,

Pasta with mint, 388-389

408-409

Fregula soup, 117

and

Ziti

Pasta with mascarpone, 298

Potato and pasta soup, 143

Ferretti in

Bolognese in broth,

183-184 Trenette with pesto sauce, 418-419

Pasta with guanciale, 376

Plum

850

171

Tiny square pasta and peas, 172 Tortellini

Pasta with Campofilone-style meat

Cavatelli with arugula

Chickpea

Pasta stuffed with sweetbreads and borage, 285-286

Cannarozzetti with ricotta and saffron,

and anchovies), 265-266 Pasta “snails” with sausage, 275

222

Calabrian-style pasta with lardo

and chestnut soup, 147 396-397 181-182 Tagliatelle with meat sauce, 392 Tagliolini croquettes, 289-290 Temi-style pasta with garlic and oil, 232 Thick pasta with tomato ragu, 274 Tiny pasta in bean broth, 169-170 Tiny square pasta and fava beans, Tagliatelle with chickpeas,

Pasta for hard times (with broccoli

Bucatini with guanciale, hot pepper,

Stuffed pasta, 2 1 5-2 1

Sweet lasagne, 808 Sweet ravioli with ricotta, 849-850 Tagliatelle, 397 Tagliatelle pie,

Pasta and prawns in broth, 184

288

and

Tagliatelle

Romagna), 169

Bucatini in mackerel sauce, 221

chili,

tomatoes, 389

Cannoli

shells,

870

Chieti cookies,

Ricotta crostata, 785

Chocolate rolled cake, 802

Ring cake (Emilia-Romagna), 756-757

Christmas sweets, 792-793

Cornmeal and raisin cake, 844 Cornmeal cookies, 886-887 Cornmeal fruitcake, 753 Cornmeal raisin cookies, 804 Cornmeal sponge cake, 845 Cream-filled sponge cake, 889 Custard tart, 809 Easter buns, 845

Stewed eel with peas (Veneto), 433-434 Tiny square pasta and peas, 172

Fruit cake (Emilia-Romagna),

Fried dough knots, 863

Ring cake (Lazio), 840 Rose fritte (“fried roses”), 852 Rum fritters, 758 St. Joseph’s Day fritters, 753-754 Sandy cake, 882 Scarsella, 859 Semolina fritters, 796-797 Spiced honey twists, 868-869 Spiced shortbread, 758 Sponge cake, 846 Star cake, 819 Sugar cookies, 765 Sweet buns, 8 1 2-8 1

Fried knots, 801

Sweet cheese

Pistachios

Easter cake, 841

Ferrara biscotti, 756 Ferratelle alio zafferano, Filled cookies,

794

861-862

Fried pasta ribbons, 772

pastries,

861

Fried pastries, 868

Sweet lasagne, 808 Sweet ravioli with ricotta, 849-850

Fried small dumplings, 866

Tagliolini pie,

Fritters,

771

880

Torta di farina

Friulian yeast cake,

806

gialla,

876

Pine nuts Charterhouse-style sweet bread,

826-827 Fried small dumplings, 866 Friulian yeast cake,

806

864-865 Sweet bread with

fruits

and

nuts,

825-826 Sweet-and-sour cod stew, 504 Yellow cake with

fruit,

831

Cream baskets, 83 Sweet bread with fruits and nuts, 825-826 Watermelon

ice,

803

Torta Novecento (sponge cake),

Fruit cake (Emilia-Romagna),

864-865

Pork

883 Tortoli,

884 Tuscan sweet bread, 752

Agnolotti gobbi astigiani-albesi

Fruit ravioli, 863

Fruitcake 1,751-752

Valdostan apple cake, 791

“Appetite-buster” sausage casserole,

Fruitcake 2, 815

Vanilla fritters, 821

Fruitcake with nuts, 800-801

Vanilla ring cake,

379 Baked dumplings with sausage and

Glazed S cookies, 869

Venetian

Glazed sweet

Grappa

748 793

Honey cookies, 841 Honey doughnuts, 775-776 Honey fritters, 778 Honey squares, 866 Jam ravioli, 848 Jam-filled horseshoe cookies,

869

784Layer sponge cake, 790 Lucca ring

cake,

757 750

759-760 769-770

Peaches Baked amaretto peaches, 838 Peach and amaretti semifreddo, 861

Marzipan-filled cookies,

Stuffed peaches, 838

Migliacci dolci di maiale (sweet

Stuffed peaches with almonds,

migliacci with pork),

Milk

fritters,

Moiano

838-839

817

800

biscotti,

755

Nuns’ fritters for Carnival, 795 Orange cake, 872 Palatschinken with preserves,

785 Paradise cake, 882

785Pear cake, 823

Pears Apple and pear cake, 877 Pear cake, 823 Pear pie, 773 Pear tart, 874 Pears in wine, 837 Potatoes and pears, 708

Pear pie, 773 Pear

tart,

Peas

874

Pesche di Castelbottaccio (baked sweet

rolls),

Pisa-style rice tart,

risi,

e piselli

Garganelli with peas and prosciutto,

873

Pizze di Pasqua (Easter pizza), 846

Plum

Collo de castrato,

(lamb’s neck), 554

839

247

Lamb and peas,

Polenta fruitcake, 801

513 Pea soup, 143-144

Puff pastries, 862

Peas with sauteed bread, 703

Raisin buns, 829

Quail with peas, 633

cake,

Raisin

880

fritters,

Rice and peas

797

Ricotta cheesecake (Piemonte),

786 Ricotta cheesecake (Sicilia),

800

Baked macaroni and rice with pork, 408 Baked meat ravioli, 333 Baked omelet with pork and potatoes, 690 Baked polenta and sausage, 327 Baked polenta with meat sauce 1 (Lombardia), 324-325 Baked polenta with meat sauce 2 (Emilia-Romagna), 325 Baked polenta with sausage and ciccioli, 289 Baked pork shanks, 65 Baked prosciutto and herb pie, 312 Baked ravioli, 332 Baked rigatoni with braised pork and eggs, 402-403 Baked tripe in crust, 667-668 Barbazza

Bucatini with guanciale, hot pepper,

and tomato, 221 Cabbage and pork-rind soup, 149 Calcioni (fried dumplings with prosciutto

and cheese),

1

Cappello da prete con zabaione, 531

Rice and peas 2 (Veneto), 345 Stewed eel with peas (Emilia-

Came

Romagna), 434

scottata, 7

Bean, escarole, and pork soup, 198 Bean stew with beef and ham, 598 Beans and pork, 686 Braised pork ribs, 625 Bread with pork bits, 86 Breaded pork liver, 573

(Veneto), 345

1

ai tre

213

cheese, 10

Wheat berry ricotta tart, 835-836 White pepper cookies, 839 Wine doughnuts, 775 Wine pinwheels, 767 Yellow cake with fruit, 83

rolls,

fritters,

biscotti,

arrosti,

‘ncartarata (“aged meat”), 15 Chestnut fettuccine with cabbage

and pork, 241

921

3

1

Chicken, veal, pork and guinea hen

Pasta with Campofilone-style meat

cooked with tomatoes and herbs, 645 Chickpea and pork soup

Pasta with guanciale, 376

(Piemonte), 156

Coppa (Umbrian pork sausage), 20 Duck stuffed with sausage and liver, 517

Duck stuffed

with veal and pork,

517 Eggplant and sausage, 700 Escarole with meatballs, 722

Farro and

572

Pizza with cracklings, 61

pudding, blood sausage), 76 Sardegnan stewed tripe, 661 Sausage and fava bean stew, 573 Sausage frittata, 579

Pizza with cracklings and raisins, 61

Sausage roll-ups, 592

Polenta with broccoli and pancetta,

Sausage timbale, 82-83 Sausages and broccoli, 640-641 Sausages with broccoli rabe, 641 Shepherd’s-style pork, 540

Porchetta (whole spit-roasted pig),

Skewered pork

Small Sardinian gnocchi with meat

pasta in pork sauce, 281

630 Pork and bean soup, 197 Pork and beans (Piemonte), 114 Pork and cabbage stew, 543 Pork and chickpeas for All Soul’s Day, 605 Pork and pickled peppers, 606 Pork and sweetbreads with beans, 614 Pork cutlets in wine, 522

Spaghetti with guanciale sauce, 382

pasta with guanciale and

Pork

Spaghetti with peppers, tomatoes,

fritters),

581

545-546

Garganelli with peas and prosciutto,

247 Grandma’s prosciutto and beans, 717

sausage, 314

cutlets with balsamic vinegar,

644

pasta with meat and

tomato, 278

Homemade

Sanguinaccio valdostano (blood

Sausages and potatoes, 641-642

(Lazio),

Fried pork, 647

Homemade

638

Polenta with salted pork, 319

1

Fried neapolitan sausage and

Homemade Homemade

309 Penne with hot chiles, prosciutto, and tomato, 314 Piquant tripe soup, 187

cotta (“cooked stuff”),

Salama da sugo, 639 Salame d’oca, 70

Polenta with pork sauce, 320-321

sangh (blood

friarielli,

Roast suckling pig, 630

Roba

Pasta with potatoes and pancetta,

321

Fava beans and guanciale 2 (Lazio), 687-688 ’d

277

Polenta with pork loin, 320

pig’s trotters,

Fava beans and guanciale 687

Friceu

sauce,

pasta with pork sauce,

308 Lasagne with meat sauce, 373 Layered polenta with sausage and

mushrooms, 287-288 Marche-style lasagne, 422

Meat and artichokes, 541 Meat and salame pie, 646 Meat pie, 540 Meat pie with elderberry, 83 Meat roll-ups, 592

575

Spaghetti with carbonara sauce,

382-383 Spaghetti with guanciale, 380 Spaghetti with guanciale and chile

pepper, 383 Spaghetti with guanciale and tomato sauce, 385

and guanciale, 299

cutlets with Savoy cabbage, 565 Pork roll-ups (Lombardia), 41-42

Spiedo bresciano or polenta e

Pork roll-ups (Valle d’ Aosta), 591

Squab

Pork salad, 39 Pork scraps and peppers, 605 Pork shanks, 613

Stewed pork

(polenta and birds),

uccelli

650 623

stuffed with meat,

(Friuli- Venezia Giulia),

541

Pork stew (Abruzzo), 610 Pork stew (Lombardia), 656 Pork with chervil sauce, 540

Stewed pork (Piemonte), 638 Stuffed pork spleen, 609 Stuffed squab, 622 Stuffed zucchini flowers, 529-530

Pork with onion sauce, 547

Sweet-and-sour meatballs 2

Pork with potatoes and fennel, 553 Pork with potatoes and mushrooms,

659

628

(Calabria),

Sweet-and-sour pork, 605

Romagna-style meat 394 meat sauce, 400 Tagliolini with pork gullets, 182-183 Timballo alia Bonifacio VIII, 410 Tagliatelle with

573-574

Pork-liver skewers,

Migliaccio (baked blood pudding),

“Priest chokers” with salsify sauce,

sauce,

390

45

liver,

284

Pork

Meatballs, 632

Minestra maritata 2 (wedding soup 2, Campania), 141

sauce,

Prosciutto and cheese

fritters,

68

Prosciutto di bosses (jambon di

Taglierini in

Tortellini

Bolognese in broth,

183-184

Mixed braised meats, 522 Mixed meat ravioli, 331-332 Molise-style ragu, 635-636

Prosciutto di sauris, 68 Prosciutto in bread dough, 63

Tripe and sweetbread stew, 648-649

Mortadella di fegato, 49

Prosciutto mousse, 45

Tripe sausages, 599

Mushrooms

Rabbit and pork pate, 55

Tripe soup 2

Rice with beans, cabbage, and pork,

207-208 Turkey breast with prosciutto and fontina, 621 Veal stew, 668-669

with loin and sausage,

546 Neapolitan pate, 55-56 Pallotte (cheese

and sausage

bosses),

67

Tripe and beans, 667

292 Ricotta and sausage dumplings, 82

(Friuli- Venezia Giulia),

dumplings), 741 Pan-cooked pasta with pork, tomato,

Rigatoni with sausage and

and red wine, 283 Pan-cooked pork cutlets, 565 Pan-fried pork, 581 Pan-fried sausages and broccoli, 641

Risotto with pork and veal, 357

Wedding soup

Risotto with sausage

White bean puree, 123 Wild herbs and meat soup, 1 53 Zeaia, 87

Pasta and prosciutto pie, 312

mushrooms, 338-339 (Emilia-

Romagna), 361 Risotto with sausage 2 (Lombardia),

Vegetables and pancetta, 732 1

(Calabria), 151

366-367

Pasta “snails” with sausage, 275

Risotto with sausage

Pasta “snakes” with sausage, 423

Roast pork, 615

Pasta timbale, 378-379

Roast pork

922

1

loin,

and rum, 356

Potatoes Apricot dumplings, 807

518

Baked lamb and potatoes, 5 1

1

Baked meat and vegetables, 617 Baked omelet with pork and potatoes, 690 Baked pasta and potatoes, 307-308 Baked rice Foggia-style, 404-405 Baked rice with mussels and potatoes, 404 Barley and potato soup, 155 Bean, cabbage, and potato soup, 156-157 Boiled stockfish with potatoes, 493

Bread soup 5 (Basilicata), 169 Bread soup with arugula and potatoes, 160

Buckwheat gnocchi with speck, 255-256 Cavatelli with arugula and potatoes, 111

Cheese crisp with potatoes, 739 Cheese sauce with potatoes and onions, 738-739

Cod and

potato stew

1

(Piemonte),

492

Cod and

potato stew 2 (Calabria),

492 Cod and potatoes 1 (Campania), 494 Corn, bean, and potato soup, 137 Crushed potatoes, 709 Crushed potatoes and beans with cheese, 744 Fontina gnocchi with sage cream,

419 Fried potato dumplings, 43

Gnocchi stuffed with mushrooms, 260 Gnocchi with duck sauce, 254 Gnocchi with goose sauce, 25 Gnocchi with rabbit sauce, 252 Gnocchi with sardines, 255 Half-moon pasta with potato filling, 214 Lamb and potatoes (Puglia), 512 Leg of lamb baked in embers, 510 Mutton stew with potatoes, 656 Pan-fried beef and vegetables, 579 Pan-fried potatoes, 709 Pasta with potatoes and eggs, 308 Pasta with potatoes and pancetta, 309

1

405-406

296 Partridges

Potato crescents, 696

Quail in pastry with mushrooms,

Potato dumplings with sauce,

Potato

mushroom

799 1

Quail with peas, 633

(Emilia-Romagna),

Quinces

256 Potato gnocchi 2 (Emilia-Romagna),

Potato and leek soup, 203

Potato and meat pie, 661

mushroom

soup, 203

780-781

Rabbit

Potato gnocchi Verona-style, 258

Agnolotti gobbi astigiani-albesi

Potato pancakes with blood sausage,

arrosti, 213 Baked game, 639-640

684-685

ai tre

Giblet stew with eggs, 552

Potato pie or “tardets,” 84 Potato salad with anchovies, olives

Gnocchi with

and tomato, 20 Potato timbale, 729

Hunter-style rabbit, 557

Potato puree with cheese, 741

Pan-cooked

rabbit sauce,

252

Meatball-stuffed rabbit, 629

Potatoes and pears, 708 Potato-mushroom gratin, 405 Pumpkin-potato gnocchi, 254 Rice and potato soup 1 (Veneto),

rabbit,

561

Rabbit and onions, 559-560

Rabbit and pork pate, 55 Rabbit Asti-style, 556

Rabbit braised in the

style

of Ischia,

557

145

Rabbit in broth, 554

Rice and potato soup 2 (Friuli-

Rabbit in red wine, 556

Venezia Giulia), 145

Roast suckling lamb with potatoes,

Rabbit with fennel, 555

508 Roasted cod and potatoes, 440-44 Roman-style potato gnocchi, 257-258

Rabbit with pepper sauce, 561

Salam ad

Roast stuffed rabbit with fennel, 562

patati (potato salame),

723

Sardinian-style pasta stuffed with

potato and mint, 235-236

Sausages and potatoes, 641-642

Squab baked

in potato,

621-622

Stewed rabbit with potato, 557-558 Stockfish and potatoes 2 (Alto

Rabbit with peppers, 560 Rabbit with peppers and

olives,

560

Rabbit with wild fennel, 555

San Remo rabbit, 559 Stewed rabbit, 558 Stewed rabbit with potato, 557-558 Stuffed rabbit, 561-562 Trentino-style rabbit, 558-559

Radicchio

Adige), 494 Stockfish with potatoes

and onions,

Grilled radicchio Treviso-style,

720

Radicchio crepes, 234-235

495 Stockfish with tomatoes potatoes,

and Raisins

495

Stuffed potato gnocchi, 250-251

Apple-raisin pancakes, 806

Sweet potato cake, 878 Truffled potatoes, 707 Veal stew, 649 Vegetable soup (Piemonte), 157

Cod with raisins and prunes, 441 Cod with tomatoes, raisins, and pine

Vegetable stew (Basilicata), 681-682

Yeasted

fritters,

888

Prunes

Potato and cheese galette, 691

paste,

Potato gnocchi Romagna-style, 257

Vegetable timbale, 377

Potato and celery soup, 168

Quince

256

Vegetable stew with celery, 682

Potato and bean stew, 708

633-634 Quail Veneto-style, 633

216

fritters,

Potato gnocchi

potatoes), 710 Pork with potatoes and fennel, 553 Pork with potatoes and mushrooms,

659

and polenta, 619-620

Potato balls, 685

Patate lesse sfritte (fried boiled

Potato and

Pappardelle with quail and fennel,

Potato and vegetable gratin,

Cod with raisins and prunes, 441 806 Half-moon pasta with ricotta and prune filling, 213 Pear pie, 773 Sweet-and-sour cod stew, 504

Friulian yeast cake,

Potato and pasta soup, 143 Potato and tomato casserole, 726

Quail and partridge

Potato and truffle gratin, 708

Hunter-style partridges, 619

nuts, 442 Cornmeal and raisin cake, 844 Cornmeal raisin cookies, 804 Flatbread with rosemary and raisins, 858-859 Nut and raisin candy, 833 Pizza with cracklings and raisins, 61 Polenta pie with sausage and raisins,

54 Raisin buns, 829 Raisin cookies, 792 Raisin

fritters,

797

Rice, risotto

Baked rice and meat, 341 Baked rice custard from Carrare, 879

923

1

1

Baked rice mold, 401-402 Baked rice pudding with chocolate, 757-758 Baked rice with mussels and potatoes, 404 Bean and rice soup, 107

Rice with beans, 292

Rice with celery and tomato, 176

Risotto with squash and beans, 363

Black risotto with cuttlefish ink

Rice with cheese sauce, 347

Risotto with tench, 362

(Veneto), 351

chard, 370-371

Cabbage and

292

Risotto with spumante, fontina, and

salame, 291

mushrooms, 357

175

livers,

149-150

Rice with fennel and

ricotta,

and

Risotto with trout

Rice with crabs and razor clams, 342 Rice with eggs and cheese, 173

rice soup,

369 Risotto with snails, 364

Rice with beans, cabbage, and

Rice with chicken

Black risotto with cuttlefish ink and

Risotto 368-with shrimp and asparagus,

Rice with beans, cabbage, and pork,

348

Saffron risotto souffle, 351

Country-style risotto, 355

Rice with meat sauce, 347

Crown of rice with squid, 233 Duck with rice, 215

Rice with milk and chestnuts, 327Rice with smoked cheese, 378

Seafood

rice balls,

Fava bean soup,

328Rice with squash, 343

Seafood

risotto,

Feltre-style rice

1

18

and beans, 344

Rice-stuffed tomatoes

368

Saffron risotto with mushrooms, 354 1

74

(Lazio),

1

329

Frittelle di

Minestra di riso (Piemonte), 144 Minestra di riso allaValdostana (Valdostan rice soup), 146

Old-fashioned rice pudding cake, 879

873

Pisa-style rice tart,

Rich

and

livers),

Risotto and eels, 176 Risotto with baked sole, shrimp, and

349-350

risotto,

Risotto with beans, 360

Rice and beans (Valle d’ Aosta), 175

Risotto with bladder

campion and

Wild duck

Risotto with campion, 360-361

Rum

Rice and chestnut soup, 206

Carnival cookies, 774

Risotto with clams, 364-365

Drunken

Rice and egg soup, 127

Risotto with cream of leek, 353

Fritters,

Rice and frankfurter soup, 147

Risotto with fennel,

Rice and mushrooms, 348

Risotto with freshwater prawns,

408-409 Rice and peas

1

(Veneto), 345

Rice and peas 2 (Veneto), 345 Rice and potato soup

1

(Veneto),

145 Rice and potato soup 2

(Friuli-

Venezia Giulia), 146

Rice and wild herbs, Rice

balls,

1

74

48-49 1

(Sicilia, typical

Rice balls in soup 2

(Sicilia),

117-118 with meat and peas, 4

balls

Rice

bombe with

squab, 220

Rice croquettes, 80-81

Rice

fritters for St.

Joseph’s Day, 799

Rice pudding

1,

761

Rice pudding

2,

85

Rice pudding cake, 879 Rice salad with anchovies, 41 Rice soup (Valle d’ Aosta), 145

Rice soup with squash, 145 Rice timbale

1

(Campania), 374

Rice timbale 2 (Campania), 375

924

Sweet bread from Cogne, 826 Zabaglione with rum, 886

Fried sage leaves, 30

Risotto with Parmigiano-Reggiano,

Sage-and-anchovy

Risotto with

Sage leaves fritters,

2

355 flowers,

and

veal,

357

Risotto with red wine, 352

flowers,

Salame Belecot (fresh salame), 8

358

and zucchini

358

Chocolate salame, 853

Cooked

soppressata,

647

Fiorini filled with salame

242 ’Ndugghia

and cheese,

705 and salame, 175

di Castrovillari,

355-356 Risotto with salame and onion, 366

Rice, beans, milk,

Risotto with sausage

Rice with beans, cabbage, and

Risotto with salame,

Rice

and rum, 356

honey mushrooms, 360 hop shoots, 368 Risotto with Lake Garda tench, 363 Risotto with mushrooms, 349 Risotto with

Risotto with saffron

of Enna), 117

Risotto with sausage

Risotto with Gorgonzola, 350

Risotto with pork

Rice balls in soup

786

Rum custard, 783 Rum fritters, 758

Risotto with giblets, 365

Risotto with perch and zucchini

Rice and turnips, 346

toasts,

771

Layer sponge cake, 790

349

358-359

74

352

risotto,

Rocks

Babas with rhum, 749-750

onion, 359

Rice and celery, 346

1

37

tripe, 346-347 Wedding soup 3 (Piemonte), 152 Wedding soup 5 (Veneto), 152-153

Veronese rice and

Pesce fuiute (“fake fish” soup), 170

350

Risotto with Barolo,

Rice and asparagus, 343-344

Rice and pasta baked with meatballs,

369

370

Rice, beans, milk, and salame, 175

Rice and pansies,

risotto,

risotto with zucchini

Soup from Cogne, 178-179 Spring

fegatini (rice

hollandaise,

Shrimp

Spiced risotto with salame, 361

343

Risotto with Barbera,

Rice and beans (Veneto), 344

371-372

anemones), 342 i

353-354

Seas and mountains

flowers,

risotto Padua-style,

Riso co-i fide (rice with sea Riso con

Lunch,” 329 3-4

370

Rice-stuffed tomatoes 2 (Lazio),

maresina, 36 Frog leg risotto, 352-353 Frog risotto, 365 Genoese rice, 341-342 Green rice, 348

“St. Joseph’s 369-

328

“Free-range” risotto with gizzards,

saffron,

356-357 Risotto with wild greens, 359

1

(Emilia-

salame, 291

Romagna), 361 Risotto with sausage 2 (Lombardia),

Risotto with sausage and cabbage,

362 Risotto with sausage

Risotto with salame,

355-356

Risotto with salame and onion, 366

366-367

and

cauliflower,

367 Risotto with sausage and rum, 356

Risotto with sea bass, 367 Risotto with secole, 366

Salam ad patati (potato salame), 723 Salama da sugo, 639 Salame di agnello (lamb sausage), 640 Salame d’oca, 70 Salame frittata 1 (Piemonte), 33 Salame frittata 2 (Veneto), 34

6

Sausage frittata (with raw salame), 30-31

San Secondo (boiled pork salame), 79

Spalla cotta di

Sea bass and Sea bass in

shellfish in

salt,

dough, 446

446

Green lasagna with meat sauce, 270 Green rice, 348

Sea bass in wine sauce, 490

Manfrigul pasta

Sea bass stuffed with seafood, 490

Pasta

Spiced risotto with salame, 361

Sea bass with tomato, 490

Piacenza

Stuffed dumplings, 293

Seafood and vegetable

Sardines

Sesame seeds

Alborelle or sardine salate, 3

Sesame nougat, 871

platter,

453

roll

and sage sauce, 387-388

“Priest stranglers” green gnocchi in

butter sauce, 388

Bigoli with salted freshwater sardines,

Sardinian-style stuffed pasta with

Shrimp, crustaceans

217

340-341 Gnocchi with sardines, 255 Homemade pasta with baby anchovies, 282 Mustica di Crucoli (sardine spread), 468 Pasta with sardines, anchovies, and breadcrumbs, 304 tiellas,

Pasta with sardines

1

(Sicilia),

305-306

spinach, 235

Chickpea puree with shrimp and clams, 162

482 Sardine and artichoke casserole, 418 Sardine and lettuce stew, 505 Sardines in vinegar, 481 Sauteed baby sardines, 482-483 Soused bream, 445 Soused fish (Lombardia), 476—477 Soused fish (Veneto), 454 Stuffed sardines 1 (Sicilia), 480-481 Stuffed sardines 2 (Puglia), 482 salate (salted sardines),

Sauces and syrups Almond-and-anchovy

sauce, 75

Barberina sauce, 72

Bormida sauce, 72 Genoese meat sauce, 413 Grape syrup, 69 Green sauce, 74 Green-pepper sauce, 73-74

Crayfish soup, 504-505

249

Halibut and seafood stew, 457

Spinach dumplings

1,

265

Pasta and prawns in broth,

Spinach dumplings

2,

265

84

Risotto with baked sole, shrimp, and hollandaise,

370

Risotto with freshwater prawns,

con

Schille or cragnoni

aglio e olio,

485 453 369-370 Shrimp and porcini gratin, 487-488 Shrimp in green sauce, 462 Shrimp risotto with zucchini flowers, 369 Taglionlini with squid and shrimp, 399-400 Thin tagliatelle with squid and shrimp, 398 Treviso shrimp, 462 Vermicelli and seafood baked in foil, 420-421 Seas and mountains

336

Spinach-cornmeal soup

(Friuli-

Spinach-ricotta ravioli, 337 3 (Piemonte), 152

platter,

risotto,

Spreads Foie gras, 643

Mustica

di Crucoli (sardine spread),

468 Spicy cheese spread, 80

Squab Baked game, 639-640 “Brooding” pigeons (squab) stew, 179 Rice

bombe with

squab, 220

Roast squab with black

olives,

623

snails,

600-601

Cremona-style snails, 604 Pan-cooked snails, 602 Pasta with snails, 3 1 5-3 1 Polenta and snails (Trentino),

322-323

snails,

Snails with fennel,

601

602

Snails with picchi pacchi sauce, 16

603

Winemaker-style

Sole

Sweet-and-sour sauce Parma

Grilled sole

snails,

snails

birds),

Squash, winter. See also Zucchini (summer squash) Buckwheat pasta with zucchini, 389

St.John’s snails, 601

San Quirino

and

364

Risotto with snails,

Squash-blossom sauce, 72-73 Sweet-and-sour sauce (Toscana), 70 style,

650 Spit-roasted squab, 614 Squab baked in potato, 621-622 Squab on skewers, 623-624 Squab stuffed with meat, 623 Stuffed squab, 622 Tagliatelle in squab sauce, 393 (polenta

Spicy tomato sauce, 80

snails,

Butternut-squash gnocchi d’Aosta),

with herbs, 603-604

1

(Valle

259

Butternut-squash gnocchi 2 (Friuli-

Venezia Giulia), 259

44

Butternut-squash gnocchi Bellunostyle, 1

(Emilia-Romagna),

488 Grilled sole 2 (Emilia-Romagna),

489 Risotto with baked sole, shrimp,

Sole in

Cavatelli

260 con cime

di cocozze,

229

Fried squash, 89

370 wine, 489

hollandaise,

salt,

ravioli,

Wedding soup

Seafood and vegetable

Stewed Stewed

Sea bass

Spinach

Venezia Giulia), 161

Sausage sauce, 73

Walnut sauce, 73

pie,

207

368-369

Christmas

Mostarda di carpi (fruit sauce), 48 Mostarda mantovana, 704 Mushroom sauce, 412 Mutton sauce, 619 Olive oil, lemon, and garlic sauce 1 (Calabria), 74 Olive oil, lemon, and garlic sauce 2 (Sicilia), 74-75

Truffle sauce, 71

26

Spinach

Spinach soup (Emilia-Romagna),

358-359

Snails

Marrow sauce with pepper, 521

Fish cooked in

1

Spiedo bresciano or polenta e uccelli

Horseradish sauce, 71

70 Tarragon sauce, 71

Spinach Genoa-style, 727 Spinach gnocchi in prosciutto sauce,

Risotto with shrimp and asparagus,

Pasta with sardines 2 (Sicilia), 306

Sarde

123

414

“Priest stranglers” green gnocchi in

butter

Fillings for

balls,

with spinach, 372-373 tortelli,

469

and

Fried squash

ravioli,

6-7

Marinated squash, 733 Minestrone with pesto,

Mixed

1

55

fry Ascolo-Piceno-style,

582-583 Pan-fried beef and vegetables, 579

Fish in vegetable sauce, 472

Spinach

Risotto with sea bass, 367

Fillings for tiellas,

Pasta stuffed with squash, 224-225

340-341

Pumpkin

bread, 827-828

925

5

Pumpkin Pumpkin

olives, 560 Scrambled eggs with peppers, 672 Sole with peppers, 489

Homemade

Spaghetti with peppers, tomatoes,

Large tomato and mozzarella 740-741

Rabbit with peppers and

cake, 791 ravioli 1 (Emilia-

Romagna), 416

Pumpkin

ravioli 2 (Lombardia), 417 Pumpkin-potato gnocchi, 254 Ratatouille Piedmont-style, 721

Spicy stuffed peppers, 710

Rice soup with squash, 145

Stuffed peppers, 53

Rice timable 2 (Campania), 375

Stuffed peppers (Puglia), 712-713

Rice with squash, 343

Stuffed peppers Capri-style, 711

Risotto with squash and beans, 363

Stuffed peppers with caciocavallo,

Squash cake, 85 Squash puree, 719 Squash soup, 1 50 Vegetable soup with squash and barley, 199 Vegetable tart, 78 Watermelon ice, 803 Wheat-berry pudding 1 787 Winter vegetable soup, 100 ,

Squid and cuttlefish

and guanciale, 299

713 Sweet-and-sour stuffed peppers,

711-712

tagliatelle

with cuttlefish, 398

Crown of rice with Cuttlefish

baked

233 455 340-341 squid,

in foil,

Fillings for tiellas,

Linguine with cuttlefish ragu, 272

Marinated squid, 26 (Calabria),

Tagliatelle with zucchini, roasted

Rice with celery and tomato, 176

peppers, and tomatoes, 393

Spaghetti with peppers, tomatoes,

Tripe with tomatoes and peppers,

664

298 Stewed Stewed

(Sicilia),

Stuffed tomatoes, 717

Vegetable stew with celery, 682

Tagliatelle with zucchini, roasted

peppers, and tomatoes, 393 Thick pasta with tomato ragu, 274

Sweet potato cake, 878

Tomato soup, 156 Tomato soup (Toscana), 161

Swiss chard

Vegetable timbale, 377

Black risotto with cuttlefish ink and chard, 370-371

Chard in broth, 99 Macaroni with chard sauce, 413 Meatless ravioli 2 (Toscana), 335

414

Sweet peppers

Swordfish with capers 2 (Calabria),

tortelli,

,

Swordfish Baked swordfish 1 Baked swordfish 2

Pan-cooked peppers, 56 roll-ups,

695

Tripe Roman-style, 666

Swordfish with capers

1

(Calabria),

475 Swordfish with capers and lemon,

475 Swordfish with mint, 474 Swordfish with olives and capers, 475

661

Tripe in spiced tomato sauce, 666 Tripe in tomato sauce, 664-664 Tripe Pisa-style, 665

Tripe soup (Liguria), 177 Tripe soup (Piemonte), 107 Tripe soup (Trentino), 149 Tripe soup

1

(Veneto), 207

Tripe soup 2 (Friuli-Venezia Giulia),

207-208 Tripe soup 3 (Veneto), 208 Tripe with chili peppers, 667 Tripe with eggplant and walnuts,

665-666 Tripe with potatoes, 661-662 Tripe with tomatoes and peppers,

664

Swordfish with peppers, 474

Trippa del “ Vecchio Salera,” 1 82 Veal tripe in tomato sauce, 663

Tomatoes

Veronese rice and

Bucatini in tomato sauce, 275

Buckwheat pasta with zucchini, 389 Capri salad, 693 Cornmeal pasta with tomatoes, 271 Goat with tomatoes and pepper, 532

926

tripe,

Parmigiana, 664

Steamed swordfish 1 (Calabria), 473 Steamed swordfish 2 (Sicilia), 473 Swordfish in salmoriglio sauce, 476 Swordfish pie, 468 Swordfish roll-ups, 472 Swordfish steaks, 445-446

Pickled peppers, 713-714

Rabbit with peppers, 560

alia

Tripe in sauce, 662

Peppers stuffed with pasta, 315

Pork and pickled peppers, 606 Pork scraps and peppers, 605

Tripe

Tripe Florentine-style, 663

Pasta with dried peppers, 282

Pepper

Piquant tripe soup, 187

473 (Calabria), 476 Linguine with swordfish, 299-300 Seafood rice balls, 3-4 (Calabria),

473-474 Beans and roasted dried peppers, 686 Calabrian peppers, 709 Goat with tomatoes and pepper, 532 Green-pepper sauce, 73-74

667-668

tomato sauce,

Tripe and bean stew, 115

cuttlefish 2 (Toscana), 1

tripe in

662-663

Tripe and beans, 667

Tuscan

(Liguria),

1

tripe in crust,

Lamb

Stuffed tripe (Molise), 610

415

484 484 485 Stuffed cuttlefish 2, 485-486 Stuffed small cuttlefish 1, 486 Stuffed small cuttlefish 2, 486 Stuffed squid (Campania), 499 Stuffed squid (Molise), 450 Stuffed squid (Puglia), 450 Tagliatelle with baby squid, 395 Taglionlini with squid and shrimp, 399-400 Thin tagliatelle with squid and shrimp, 398 cuttlefish

Tripe Baked

Sardegnan stewed

Swiss chard and ricotta, 730 Tortelli filled with Swiss chard,

Stuffed cuttlefish

and guanciale, 299 Spicy tomato sauce, 80

Vegetable stew (Basilicata), 681-682

390

380-381

Spaghetti with cuttlefish ink

sott’olio (pickled

tomatoes), 718

“Priest chokers” with salsify sauce,

Spaghetti with cuttlefish ink

320 Pomodori

Potato and tomato casserole, 726

chard, 370-371

Black

ravioli,

Oregano tomatoes, 716-717 Pan-cooked pasta with pork, tomato, and red wine, 283 Pasta with breaded tomatoes, 306 Penne with tomatoes and basil, 3 1

Swordfish with peppers, 474

Sweet potatoes

Black risotto with cuttlefish ink and

pasta with tomatoes and

313

stew with tomatoes, 527

Polenta with salted green tomatoes,

Stuffed peppers with tuna, 712

Black risotto with cuttlefish ink (Veneto), 351

garlic,

Lamb

Trout Eels and

tripe,

346-347

trout in a spicy sauce,

Grilled trout, 503

Marinated

trout,

87

435

1

Pasta Scheggino-style, 275

1

alia canzanese, 657 Turkey breast with prosciutto and fontina, 621 Turkey-veal roulade, 629

Tacchino

and saffron, 356-357 Trout baked in tomato sauce with polenta, 503 Trout in red wine, 501 Trout with parsley sauce, 502 Trout with truffle sauce, 502 Risotto with trout

134

229

truffles,

Caesar’s

81

mushrooms with

truffles,

47 Cardoons with truffles, 679 Fondue with white truffles, 738 Lamb with truffle, 515 Mushroom and truffle salad, 39 Pheasant with truffle, 569-570 Potato and truffle gratin, 708

Grilled veal Messina-style,

rolls,

120

Lucca spring

veal

and vegetable

stew, 118

Meat and artichokes, 541 Meat and salame pie, 646 Meat pie, 540

Braised turnips, 720

Milk-roasted veal, 519

Bread soup 3 (Basilicata), 159 Bread soup 5 (Basilicata), 159 Brovada (turnips marinated in wine pressings), 721 Carmelized turnips, 720 Corn pone with turnips, 317

Mixed braised meats, 522 Mixed meat ravioli, 331-332

Minestra di riso

alia

Molise-style ragu,

635-636

Neapolitan pate, 55-56 Paliata (grilled calf’s intestines),

(Valdostan rice soup), 146

sauce, 277

Polenta with pork and turnips, 322

Piquant tripe soup, 187

Spaghetti with truffles, 385

Rice and turnips, 346

Potato and meat pie, 661

Rice soup (Valle d’ Aosta), 145 Turnip and bean soup, 190-191

Rigatoni con

401

Tagliolini with black truffle

Tagliolini with black truffle

from

Norcia (Umbria), 399 truffle sauce,

502

Smoked

Spleen crostini (Crostini

580

offal,

(roasted

with Parmigiano-

di

offal),

mucca

Stuffed zucchini flowers, 529-530

Sweet-and-sour veal snout, 610

Meat jerkey

Baked fresh tuna, 460

Pasta stuffed with sweetbreads and

Caponata

3,

15

Focaccia with

oil,

tuna,

(coppiette), 21

Timballo

borage, 285-286

458 Gnoccoli with tuna sauce, 261 Pasta with anchovies and tuna, 423 Pasta with bottarga

1

(Calabria),

303 Pasta with bottarga 2 (Sicilia), 303

Spaghetti with tuna, 381

Bonifacio VIII, 410

Roast stuffed rabbit with fennel, 562

Tripe in sauce, 662

Stewed roebuck

Tripe Pisa-style, 665

offal,

578

Tripe soup

Veal

Fried tuna with lemon and parsley,

alia

Tripe and sweetbread stew,

648-649

and tomato,

29

Sweet-and-sour meatballs (Piemonte), 627-628

(brined

Tuna

Boiled tuna, 498

milza

Stuffed veal spleen, 608-609

590

udders), 43

Beef roll-ups with tuna sauce, 42

all

Stuffed veal breast, 632

Lamb offal with artichokes, 562 Mammella

Reggiano, 81

lamb

spiced veal (coppietta), 21

per minestra), 111

Involtini di interiora di agnelli

Truffled potatoes, 707 truffles

338

sauce, 284

Carnesecca Valdostana, 16

Insalata di nervetti, 41

402

Truffle sauce, 71

White

Variety meats Fried lamb

Hunter’s-style kid offal, 563

Truffle frittata, 32

Truffle ravioli,

la pagliata,

Risotto with pork and veal, 357

Small Sardinian gnocchi with meat

(Marche), 399

Trout with

616

Pasta timbale, 378-379 Pasta with Campofilone-style meat

Valdostana

Spaghetti with black truffle, 38

Tagliatelle with truffle,

523-524 and

pasta with meat

tomato, 278

Lettuce

Turnips Bean soup with fermented turnips, Beet stuffed pasta with poppy seeds,

Truffles

Baked

Genoese meat sauce, 413

Homemade

Agnolotti gobbi astigiani-albesi

ai tre

1

(Veneto),

207

Tripe soup 3 (Veneto), 208 Tripe with chili peppers, 667

arrosti, 213 Baked meat and vegetables, 617 Baked ravioli, 332 Baked rice and meat, 341 Baked rice mold, 401-402

Veal bolognese, 567

Benevento-style lasagne with veal

Veal brains “sandwiches,” 63

meatballs and eggs,

267-268

Tripe with potatoes, 661-662 Turkey-veal roulade, 629 Veal and potatoes, 541-542 Veal “birds,” 668

Veal casserole with tomato and

Stuffed peppers with tuna, 712

Braised snout, 588

Tuna and onions, 499 Tuna Calabria-style, 497 Tuna Gosenza-style, 497-498 Tuna Reggio-style, 498 Tuna roll, 480

Braised veal, 552

Veal cutlets in sauce, 520

Breaded veal chops, 565-566 Came salata (salted meat), 542 Cheese-filled veal chops, 566 Chicken, veal, pork and guinea hen cooked with tomatoes and herbs,

Veal cutlets with fontina, 642-643

Tuna-and-anchovy crepes, 467 Ziti with tuna sauce, 423

645

Chicken-stuffed turkey, 618

Christmas turkey, 658 Roast turkey with pomegranates, 657 Scaliger soup,

187-188

veal),

617

Veal cutlets with

mushroom

caps,

643-644 Veal cutlets with prosciutto and sage,

642

Veal hock, 585

Cialde (fried wafers stuffed with

Turkey Cardoon and meatball soup, 105

cheese,

17

Cima (stuffed calf’s breast), 549 Duck stuffed with veal and pork, 517 Fondue-stuffed pasta with veal broth, 167

Veal in white wine, 539 Veal meatballs with ricotta in broth,

178 Veal parmigiana with eggplant, 616 Veal roll-ups (Liguria), 660 Veal roll-ups (Valle d’ Aosta), 591

Veal

rump

in aspic,

575

927

1

1

pudding, 760

Veal stew (Marche), 668-669

Walnut Walnut Walnut Walnut

Veal stew (Piemonte), 649

Wheat berry pudding

2,

Veal stew “White Lady,” 578

Yellow cake with

83

Veal shank with Barolo wine,

651-652 Veal shanks Milan-style, 613

Spiced wine, 847

sauce, 73

Spit-roasted squab,

soup (Piemonte), 139 soup (Valle d’ Aosta)', 890

Trout in red wine, 501

fruit,

805

Veal stewed in wine, 669

Wheat

Veal tripe in tomato sauce, 663

Wheat berry pudding 1 787 Wheat berry pudding 2, 805 Wheat berry ricotta tart, 835-836 Wheat berry soup, 1 37

di soffritto,

206

Mixed

Vegetables. See also

berries

651-652 Veal stewed in wine,

,

vegetables

229 Carote di Viterbo in bagno aromatico, 683 lettuce,

697

Sardine and lettuce stew, 505

Wine doughnuts, 775 Wine pinwheels, 767 Wine soup, 208

Roast saddle of venison, 646

Stewed roebuck

offal,

578

Venison in sauce, 537 Venison loin with red cabbage timbale and currants, 600

Venison medallions, 608 Venison with berries, 536-537

Zabaglione with rum, 886

625 870 and wine, 503 Cod in wine, 437 Cooked wine (saba), 818-819 Drunken hen, 584 Fried bread with Bulide, 828 in white wine,

Chieti cookies,

Clams

in parsley

Baked fig and nut calzone, 820 Bread with walnuts, 5 Cavatelli with walnuts, 230 Christmas macaroni with walnuts,

811-812

Zuppetta di vino