Haynes Hillman Imp Owner's Handbook/Servicing Guide 085696381X, 9780856963810

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This book must be returned on or before the last date stamped below to avoid fines. If not reserved, it may be renewed at the issuing library in person, or by post or telephone. No fines are

charged as such for overdue books borrowed by children from the

Children’s Departments but a notification fee is charged in respect

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Hillman imo Covers the following models from 1963: Hillman Imp, Imp de luxe, Super Imp Hillman Imp Californian and Caledonian Singer Chamois, Sport and FH Coupe Sunbeam Imp Sport and Stiletto Husky and Van (Does not cover Rallye models)

Owners Handbook/Servicing Guide by P Ward 381—5F1 ABCDE FGHIJ KLMNO.

98901 - ITEM

WOUOUNNI

_ BAN YOSE 33 EAST SUSSEX _ HDPE

ue | NEE

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to two people in particular assistance to the author and publishers during

for the

compilation of this Handbook. They are Lee and Tony Saunders, who allowed access to their car and provided some technical information from car handbooks

and workshop

manuals. Gerry

Reeves also

kindly loaned a car for photography.

Valuable

advice

on

lubrication

was given by Castrol

Ltd. Brian Horsfall carried out the servicing procedures in Our own workshops, and the photographs were taken

by Leon Martindale who is a member Photographers’ Association. Cover picture:

A book in the Guide Series

of the Master

Les Brazier

Haynes

Owners

Handbook/Servicing

Edited by Robin Wager

©

Haynes Publishing Group 1978, 1980

Published

and

printed

by

the

Haynes

Publishing

Group, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ

2

ISBN 0 85696 381 X

ros reser

Contents What’s In It For You?

5

About this Handbook

The Imp Family

Z

Main Production dates and changes

In the Driving Seat

10

Instruments, controls, layout

Road Test Data Performance

14

figures from Autocar

Filling Station Facts

15

Garage forecourt guide to tyre pressures etc.

QUICK-CHECK

CHART

16

Fill-up data at-a-glance

In an Emergency Get-you-home

17

kit, wheel changing, towing, light bulb renewal

Save It!

21

Cutting motoring costs - safely

Vital Statistics

26

Technical data on all models

Tools For The Job

31

Getting equipped - what to buy

Service Scene

34

What to do, when, and how

Body Beautiful

61

Cleaning, renovating, repairing bodywork

The Personal Touch

65

Adding accessories

Troubleshooting

re;

Charts to help when things go wrong

Conversion Factors

90/91

‘What's that in pounds per square inch ...2’

Index

92

|i} uew

sadngdy

uoojes

What's in it for You? Whether

you've bought this book yourself or had it

given to you, the idea was probably the same in either case

- to

help

(whether

you

get the

it’s a saloon,

best

estate,

out

or van

of your

‘Imp’

or one

of the

Singer or Sunbeam variants), and perhaps to make your motoring

a bit less of a drain on your hard-earned cash

at the same time.

Garage

labour

charges

hourly

rate

your

own

main

part of any

them

by

Even

servicing

carrying

out

can

easily

of pay, the

be several

and

usually

bill; we'll routine

times

form

the

help you avoid

services

yourself.

if you don’t want to do the regular servicing, and

prefer some

to

leave

things

it to your

you

sure that your

Chrysler

should check

dealer,

regularly

car's not a danger

there

are

just to make

to you or to anyone

else on the road; we tell you what they are. If you're

(whether

about

to start doing your

own

servicing

to cut costs or to be sure that it’s done prop-

erly) we think you'll find the the procedures described

give an easy-to-follow introduction to what can be a very satisfying way of spending a few hours of your spare time. We've some

included

money

some

when

buying

tips

that

should

replacement

save

you

parts and even

while you're driving; there's a chapter on cleaning and renovating your car, and another on fitting accessories.

Apart know

from

headlamp,

Charts can

the things

every

Imp

owner

needs

to

to deal with mishaps like a puncture or a broken we've

to cover

crop

put

together

the more

up with even

some

Troubleshooter

likely of the problems

the most

carefully

that

maintained

car sooner or later.

There’s a Conversion Chart to heip with metricaheadaches, and a comprehensive alphabetical index to help you find your way around the book. If the bug gets you, and you're keen to tackle some

tion

of the

more

you'll

need

Hillman

Imp

advanced our

repair

Owner’s

(No.

022)

jobs on

Workshop

which

your Manual

car, then for

the

gives a step-by-step

guide to all the repair and overhaul tasks on these cars, with

plenty

clearer.

of

illustrations

to

make

things

even

Sunbeam Imp Sport

The Imp Family The

Imp first appeared

car’ market.

Word

in May 1963 as a product of the Rootes Group, their intention being to attack the ‘small

had been going around

tional car still took everyone

for some

time that a very special project was in hand, but this unconven-

by surprise. What was a British manufacturer thinking of to introduce a full four seater

rear-engined car? - success, presumably, since this is what BMC had got from their equally unconventional

Mini.

Unfortunately, early Imps gained a bit of a reputation for unreliability which seemed to linger on, although most

of the snags were ironed out of the later models by a series of modifications. The

power

unit

for the new

car was

based

on

a

Coventry Climax 750cc engine, which had been developed from its original fire-pump application, for motor racing. This engine, in 875 cc form, is coupled

springs are coil types, with damping by hydraulic telescopic

shock

appearance

the

was

Twin

driveshafts

are

used

to drive

the

rear

and

rear

Hydraulic drum

operation

brakes,

Inside

the

early

cars

there

was

a

rather

surprisingly

good.

In fact, later

(Mk

had a much

front

end

little else that needed any radical changes.

using with

centrally pivoted swinging axle arms is used, rack and-pinion type steering. All suspension

independent

suspension

arrangement

spartan

to the facia panel, but the standard of trim

wheels which are attached to semi-trailing arms. At the an

is used

and for the dia-

phragm-spring type clutch.

to a combined gearbox and final drive (transaxle) at an inclined angle, and mounted low down at the rear of car.

absorbers.

for the front

improved

II) models

facia layout although there was

Specification details are given in Vita/ Statistics but

here in a nutshell is the life story of the range.

Hillman Husky - estate car version of the Imp

Imp delivery van

Sunbeam Stiletto

THE IMP FAMILY

Hillman Imp May 1963

Model introduced, designated De Luxe. Aluminium alloy, overhead camshaft engine, diaphragm spring clutch and four-speed, all synchromesh

September 1965

transaxle.

Imp Super Saloon and Mk. || Saloon De Luxe introduced. Larger inlet and exhaust valves and clutch. Alterations to interior trim.

January 1967

Californian ‘Fastback’ Coupé introduced. Mechanically similar to Imp. Reclining front seats; separate folddown

rear seats.

April 1967

Husky introduced, mechanically

October 1968 October 1969

Restyled front end trim, seats and instrument panel.

Redesignated

similar to Van.

Imp De Luxe and Super Saloon. New

basic Imp introduced. February

1970

October 1973

Californian discontinued. Engine and distributor modifications.

Internal and

external trim improvements; radial tyres as standard.

October 1974

Heated rear window on all models; alternator replaces dynamo.

September October

1975

1975

Door mounted

mirror and reversing lights on

Super version. Caledonian introduced as limited edition. Reclining front seats, radio, door mounted

mirror and reversing

lights.

Singer Chamois October

1974

Model

introduced.

Imp, but more

September 1975 October 1966

Mechanically similar to Hillman

luxuriously equipped.

Mk. Il introduced with similar modifications to Imp. Sport Saloon introduced. Revised suspension details;

servo assisted brakes added.

Coupé introduced, similar to |mp Californian.

April 1967 May 1967

Saloon and Sport - no camber on front wheels.

October 1968

Restyled front end with four headlights. New seating and facia panel.

February 1970

Saloon and Coupé discontinued. Sport redesignated Sunbeam.

Sunbeam Sport and Stiletto October 1966

Model

introduced

as Imp Sport. Twin carburettor

version of Imp engine; general trim as Singer Chamois.

October 1967

Stiletto introduced. Mechanically similar to Imp Sport

October 1968

with Californian ‘Fastback’ body style. Modified seating. Front end modifications for Imp Sport.

February

1970

Imp Sport discontinued. Singer Sport redesignated Sunbeam

October 1973

Sport.

Stiletto discontinued. New Zenith carburettor on Sport.

October 1974

Heated

September 1975

Door mounted

rear window;

alternator replaces dynamo.

mirror and reversing lights added.

In the Driving Seat Having

found

out a few details of production

history, let’s have a look at some

of the more

important

things

you'll need to know. Fortunately, most things are straightforward but a little information on one or two points may be useful if you’re not familiar with the car.

Bonnet (front luggage compartment) release On most models there’s a T-handle beneath the left-hand side of the facia panel; when this is pulled the bonnet springs up on to the safety catch. Other models have a recessed lock behind the swivelling

afterwards. Californian, Sport and Coupé models have adjusters for the angle of the seat-back. With the handle in the raised position the seat-back can be adjusted as necessary.

front panel badge; where this is the case, insert the key

in a vertical position and turn it clockwise to release the bonnet on to the safety catch. The safety catch can now

be moved to the right, and the bonnet

To close, lower the bonnet and press down to snap catch shut. If there’s a lock, turn the key

anti-clockwise

to the vertical position then swivel

the

motif back into place.

Engine

compartment (Van/Husky models) Anyone

who’s

wonder

where

on

rear

the

which

latch

just bought

and battery a Van

or

cover

Husky

may

the engine is! Well, it’s beneath a cover floor; this is retained by a turnbuckle

refitting

accompanying

illustrations

show

typical

panel layouts which have been used during

the various models’ production run. In general, they're self-explanatory, but the following points may be useful for anyone who's recently acquired one of these cars and isn't familiar with some of its finer points.

needs a coin to turn it, and by two other fasten-

ers. When

The

instrument

then supported on the safety prop. the

Instruments and Controls

raised,

it, make

the front edge are properly

sure that the two engaged,

then

lugs at

press down

and secure it with the fasteners.

Ignition warning light This serves the dual purpose of (a) reminding the driver that the ignition circuit's switched on (even

though the engine may not be running), and (b) acting as a no-charge

indicator.

ignition’s switched

It should

on, and may

engine’s idling, but should

when

the

also be on when

be on

the

go out at any engine speed

above idling. If this doesn’t happen, you've got a problem that needs pretty urgent attention.

A smaller, but basically similar cover is used for the battery.

Make

sure

that any

dirt which

has collected

Oil pressure/water temperature warning light

round the edge of the recess doesn’t fall into or on to the battery.

on

you

A number of different seats have been they all have a fore-and-aft adjustment

used, but lever; by

early

warning

of telling you

Seat adjusters

models, where

there was only an

light, this serves the dual purpose

that either you

have no oil pressure

or

have an overheated engine. The light should only

be on when

the ignition’s switched

on, and should go

out as soon as the engine's running. If it doesn’t go out

moving this lever to the left, the catch is released and

within a second or so of start-up, the indication is that

the seat can be moved. A seat tilt release lever was fitted towards the end of 1968; this has to be pressed down to allow the seats to tilt forward.

there’s a considerable degree of wear somewhere in the engine’s mechanics, or (less likely) that some of the

If necessary, you can

10

Except oil pressure

move

the seats further back-

wards or forwards by using a different pair of attachment holes for the front pivots. If you find this necessary, make sure the bolts are tightened firmly

oilways are blocked. These faults can be lived with for a while,

future!

but expect

If the

problems

warning

in the not

light comes

on

too

distant

while

you're

travelling, switch off the engine and stop - it could be a duff

switch,

but

more

likely you're

out

of oil or

AR24, Typical instrument panel used on early models

Handbrake Steering wheel

13

Direction indicator warning lamp

19

Heater temperature contro! lever

Binnacle Ashtray

14

Temperature gauge (if fitted)

20

Heater blower switch (if fitted)

Ignition /starter switch

15

Windscreen

16

Windscreen washer contro! Light switch

21 22 23 24 25

Heater air distribution lever Clutch pedal Brake pedal Accelerator peda/

26 27

Choke lever Gear lever

wiper switch

Fuel gauge Ignition warning lamp Mileometer Main beam warning SOCMNAHAWN>~ lamp Speedometer Oil pressure warning lamp

17

(A = off; B = side; C = head) Dip/headlamp flasher switch (D = main beam; E = dipped beam; F = flash) Direction indicator/horn switch (G = /eft turn; H = off; J = right turn; K =

Auxiliary switch panels (if fitted)

horn)

11

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IN THE DRIVING

SEAT

The manual choke control fitted to all but the earliest models. It’s just in front of the gear lever

The heater distribution contro! under the facia. The lettering tends to peel off as in this car!

water,

good

while

you're

Imp engine has suffered from corrosion at the cylinder

Later

models

block/head

control on the floor just in front of the gear lever. Pull

and

inhibitor

that’s

serious.

gasket

face

hasn't been

Many

an

because

apparently

anti-freeze

used in the cooling

or

an

system. This

has meant that the compression

gases have forced their

way

which

into

overflows.

you're and

the The

cooling

system

moral

is, if the

travelling,

stop

then

boils

light comes

/mmediate/y

it right

travelling along as the engine warms had

up to start

Late

model

There's not

Heater contro/s lever with red and blue marks

There's

a small

at the end of the range

Imps

have

used

to one,

remember

if the cars

locked.

steering,

When

rock

side-to-side

the

to take

that

you're

steering the strain

from the top and working

somewhere

these are: Off,

Screen, Screen and Car, Car.

It's a good because

Choke contro! very

reliable)

do to set

key had

choke.

it for cold

on the throttle

pedal

an

automatic

If your

starting

car

(and

generally

has one, all you

is to press down

- it'll automatically

not need

firmly

release itself

may to

no

way

if you

point

it down

column

lock.

off the

problems

of identifying

its number.

be an over-the-counter

keys as well)

if you

a correct

do know A

from

- it might

a note of the key number

real

specially.

the if the

a locked

little

key

have

know

ordered

a

for the door

if you

turn

disengaging wheel

goes

don’t

overcome

can’t

or pushed,

that

is that even

not be

idea to make

(and

you'll

There’s

Imps

push

you

being towed

make the key last a bit longer.

Early

then

up.

a steering

of travel; Red means Hot and Blue means Cold or Off. The air distribution lever has four positions; starting downwards,

up.

an operating

nothing really special about that but, if you're

steering’s

straightforward.

with

Steering column lock

front wheels

pretty

a cold engine,

progressively as the engine warms

and _ investigate,

but don’t drive the car.

are

choke,

and

on when

if there’s no obvious reason, get expert assistance -

These

a manual

lose

Another

small

the key number

item, and could

spare

it.

replacement

set

of

keys

it

have would

this, but don’t keep both sets together!

13

IN THE DRIVING SEAT

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Filling Station Facts Forgetting about the actual servicing and mechanical maintenance of your car for the time being, there are some things which are so simple they're likely to get overlooked; but they’re not only an important part of the maintenance of your car - they're vital for its safety and reliability too. Three of these items - tyres, oil and water - you can check

if necessary

whenever

you visit a petrol station. We've set out here the absolute minimum

of information

you

need to know right from the very first day you drive an Imp, Chamois, Stiletto or whatever. Remember more

that tyre pressures can only be checked accurately when the tyres are cold. Any tyre that’s travelled

than a mile or so will show a pressure increase of several pounds per square inch (psi) - maybe more than 5 psi

after a longer run. So acertain amount of ‘guestimation’ comes into checking tyres if they're warm. Since the pressures won't increase for any reason other than heat, the least you can do is to ensure that the pressures

in the two front tyres are equal, bearing in mind

that they

may

be a bit above those shown

in the table.

(The same applies to the two back tyres, but remember that their pressure should be different from the front). If one

tyre of a pair has a low pressure when

car; if they’re both below the recommended

hot, bring it up to the pressure of the other at the same end of the

cold pressure although warm, the safest thing to do is to bring them up

to about 3 psi above it, to allow for cooling.

The bonnet catch and stay

Min. 90 octane

Min. 94 octane

Min. 97 octane

Min. 100 octane

Fuel octane ratings. Use the correct grade for your vehicle

QUICK-CHECK

CHART

Tyre pressures Recommended pressures (psi) when cold

Front * Rear ** *

18 30

This pressure can be reduced to 15 psi for cars using crossply tyres, but the higher pressure is recommended for

improved roadholding and tyre wear. ** This pressure should be increased to 45 psi for the Van and 36 psi for the Husky when

Fuel octane rating All models except Van Van

fully loaded.

95 minimum (4 star) 85 minimum (2 star)

Fuel tank capacity All models

6 gallons

Fuel filler cap location All models

In luggage compartment front panel

Engine oil type All models

20W-50 multigrade

Quantity of oil required to bring level from M/N to MAX on dipstick All models

2 pints approx.

Location of engine oi! filler cap

16

The fuel filler cap in the front panel

ee y “au

In an Emergency There’s been no car invented yet that can guarantee you a safe and reliable journey from A to B every day of or a puncture, the day will come when your trusty transport requires a bit of

your life. Be it due to a breakdown roadside

attention

- usually at the most

which should certainly

minimise

inconvenient

time.

In this Handbook

the possibility of a breakdown

you'll find a wealth of information

but, although

we hope it won't be very often, the

odd thing is bound to go wrong from time to time. The

Troubleshooter

wrong

Section

should help to trace the cause of a problem, but it’s not much good knowing what's

if you've nothing to put it right with, or needing to change a wheel in the dark when you haven't a clue how

the jack works. A few timely minutes spent reading through this Chapter now could save your time and temper later on!

Spare and Repairs Kit

Breakdown

The tools supplied with the car won't get you very far in the event of a roadside breakdown because all

Clean lint-free cloth This Handbook

triangle

The list could of course

you

get is a jack and a % in AF wheel nut spanner, (on some models this is a reversible box spanner, the

for example,

other

cooling system

end

of which

fits the spark plugs). A starting

handle can be obtained too, but this has limited usage. An additional tool kit is available and contains about the minimum you're likely to need. This tool kit will be useful for most of the servicing jobs, but can only

be regarded as a minimum. A few items which can be used or fitted without too much bother at the roadside should also be carried. These can prove invaluable in getting you out of trouble needed.

on

the odd

The

sort

occasion

of things

you

when

you

might

be expanded like

indefinitely -

to have a set of spare

hoses instead of just a hose bandage. It's up to you to decide what you're likely to be able

to use in a roadside situation.

So far as the fan belt is concerned, it’s worth mentioning

that

doesn't

require

which

will

you suit

can any

buy an emergency

type

bolts to be loosened

a wide

variety

which

to fit it and

of cars.

With

one

of

these in the car, you can get on your way quickly and fit a proper replacement

belt at your leisure.

they might be

should

carry

are

as

Jacking up and changing a wheel

follows:

The jack supplied with the car is suitable for chang-

ing a wheel by the roadside, and that’s about all. Spark plugs, properly cleaned and gapped.

HT

lead

and

plug

cap

- one

that

will

reach

the

furthest plug from the distributor

Set of light bulbs

If the car’s to be jacked up for servicing or other work, you'll need a stronger and more reliable means of support; for further information on this, see Tools

For the Job.

Tyre valve core and pocket pressure gauge

Fuses models)

(only

applicable

to

post

A scissor type

October

1974

early

models

central

pivot

jack is supplied

with

all Imps. On

the front jacking point was of the wishbone

arms,

at the front

but later models

Distributor rotor, condenser and contact set

had a jack head location (nut) on each wishbone. At

Fan belt

First aid box and manual

the rear, early models had jack locating pegs at each end of the rear crossmember; later models had a locating peg on the suspension arm just in front of the wheel.

Spare set of keys (but not in the car) Extension light and lead with crocodile clips

the handbrake

Windscreen

then

Roll of insulating tape Tin of radiator sealer and a hose repair bandage

de-icer aerosol

(during winter

months)

To begin the wheel

changing operation, first apply

and firmly engage first or reverse gear;

find something

with which to chock

the wheels

IN AN EMERGENCY

The wheelnut box-spanner supplied with the car. The other end acts as a plug spanner

Front and rear jacking points on early models on the other side of the car. An old brick or block ot wood

is just the job, but unless you carry such a thing

you may have to improvise. If you can only find one, weigh up which way the car is likely to move if anything goes wrong;

hopefully

you'll find two, then one

can be put each side of a wheel.

Before position,

lifting, remove

using the tapered

but the

with hub

the

jack

in the

correct

cap or trim plate either by

end of the jack handle, or a screw-

driver. Take a little care or you'll remove the paint as well. Now use the wheel nut spanner to loosen each

nut

by about

half a turn.

Hopefully,

they won't

be

excessively tight but if they haven’t been removed for a long time a bit of footpower on the spanner

may

be

required.

The car can now be raised, but make sure it doesn’t move and check that the chocks are still in position. Take off the wheel nuts and pull off the wheel. The spare’s in the luggage compartment either at its rim by a strap, or at its centre headed

bolt. Fit the spare wheel

and is held by a wing

to the car and pinch

up the nuts in a crosswise order. then lower the car to the ground. Fully tighten the nuts now; you don't have to stand on the spanner to do this but make sure they're good and tight. Finally fit the hub cap or trim

plate by holding it in position and hitting it smoothly with the ball of your hand.

18

If you're following the correct service

procedures,

Front jacking point on later models

IN AN EMERGENCY the spare will have plenty of pressure in it; if necessary let it down to the correct reading by pressing in the pin in the centre of the valve to release air, and checking with your pressure gauge. If it hasn’t got enough pressure, make a mental note to keep it

checked air-line.

in future

and drive carefully

to the nearest

Towing and being Towed Don't be misled into thinking that because your car has no towing eyes, it won't ever need to be towed! In the unlikely event of having to use a tow-rope, provided

that

bumper

a bit of care

attachment

is taken,

you

can

use

the

brackets. These are pretty robust,

but won't stand a lot of abuse. Twin headlamp alignment screws (arrowed)

If you're using your car for towing a trailer, make sure

that you use a specially designed towing bracket

which

has been attached properly. The maximum

load

that should be towed under any conditions is 8% cwt (430

kg)

which

effectively

rules

out

towing

other

vehicles; and where a towing bracket is used the maxi-

mum

download

(static load) at the hitch is 95 Ib (43

kg).

Maintenance of lights Remember

only bulbs

be

that

dangerous

will enable

a defective

but you

exterior

light can

is also illegal. Carrying to replace

blown

not

spare

ones as they

occur. A failed interior lamp or panel light bulb may be just a nuisance but most of them aren’t particularly difficult to change. You may not carry a spare headlamp unit, but as these are perhaps the most important

of the car’s first.

lights

let’s deal

with

their replacement

Slackening a headlamp retaining bolt (single-lamp

model)

Withdrawing the lamp unit from the rear. Arrow shows

A sealed beam unit removed from its housing.

vertical adjusting screw; the lateral one is at the side of the unit

3-pin connector (arrowed) simply pulls off

The

19

IN AN EMERGENCY

Two screws retain these rear lamp lenses. Later models have lenses without screws: simply squeeze and pull off

Access to front sidelamp/flasher bulbs

Headlamp unit renewal - single lamp units From

inside the luggage compartment,

remove the

two screws securing the lamp unit bracket to the front panel,

then

swing

spring clamp

the

from

lamp

rearwards.

the bottom

Detach

the

of the lamp unit then

remove the three rim retaining screws.

Unplug the con-

nector and take out the lamp unit. Refitting’s straightforward, but make

sure that the

locating pieces on the lamp unit fit into the grooves in

the rear sealing rim. You may need to refocus the lamp unit afterwards and,. although the adjustment screws

are easy to get at, it can only be done properly

by

garage

a

which

has

the

proper

optical

setting

equipment.

Arrangement of fuses (fusebox, where fitted, is under facia adjacent to steering column)

Headlamp unit renewal - twin lamp units From inside the luggage compartment, undo the two wing nuts and remove the headlamp cover. From the

outside,

turn

the

lamp

loosen

lamp

unit

to

the

three

crosshead

screws

Fuse No.

Circuits protected

Rating

7

Direction indicators, horn(s), windscreen wiper, heated rear window, heater blower motor, stop lamps

35 amp

Interior lamp

710 amp

Pane! lamps, side lamps, tail

70 amp

and

rim anti-clockwise a little to allow the be

withdrawn.

Pull

off

the

plug

and

remove the lamp unit completely.

For

refitting, refer to the single headlamp

Section

(above).

3

lamps, number plate lamp(s)

Sidelights, tail-lights, direction indicator lights, number plate lights - bulb renewal On the late model removed

by squeezing

pulling them retained

them

slightly at the sides, and

off. On all other

by screws

models

and are readily

the

lenses are

removed.

Bulbs are

a bayonet-fitting type (press in and turn anti-clockwise to remove

them)

but

note

that

bulbs have offset pins and must way

round.

When

20

tightened.

when

refitting, some

On

sure that

positioned before the screws are

most

models

you can reach up behind the facia

and pull the bulb holder from the rear of the instrument

panel

(disconnect

may

get a handful

The bulbs holders.

be put in the correct

refitting the lenses, make

the seals are properly

Instrument panel bulbs

Imps, the rear light lenses can be

the battery earth lead first, or you

of sparks while

are either a screw-in

If your car’s a Stiletto, you'll the

battery

screws

earth

lead

first,

so that the instrument

you're doing it).

or push-in fit in their

then

have to disconnect remove

panel can

the

five

be eased for-

ward. The bulbs are in small sockets in the panel.

Save It! Do-it-yourself

car servicing is all about money

ing the highest standards

of safety.

costs - or at least prevent

them

saving, whilst not forgetting the ever-important

point of maintain-

!n this Chapter we cover several points which should help reduce your motoring

from

increasing

quite as fast as they otherwise

might these days - without

reducing

your car's safety.

Tyres Without

you

any

much

doubt

better

whatever, a radial tyre will give

value

because, although

last a great deal longer. service, but they family

on

Remould

remould

reputation

appeared

money

than

the

than

market,

radials they

a crossply

to buy, it will

tyres can give good

have their limitations

motoring;

reliable

for

it will cost a bit more

when

now

had

but sometimes

a more

they

first

give a bit of

broadest

have

terms

the

we

more

better value for money

in roadholding good

tyre

roadholding if you

learnt you

so far? pay

under

Only

that in the

for your

tyres,

the

you'll get. If you. want the best

and tyre life, buy

life, but

aren’t

radials;

if you

quite so worried

adverse conditions,

they

remember

‘shimmy’ est

about

want the

buy crossplies;

want a good runabout tyre, and aren't thinking

may

which

still

complies

standards, buy remould

Regraded to

be

the

which tread

with

as may

pattern

remoulds

want the cheap-

the

law

in safety

crossplies.

tyres are sometimes

known

tyres

buy radial

give a bit of steering wheel

if used on the front; if you

tyre

fect.

trouble when trying to balance them. So, what

or long journeys,

but

used for

have

when

of high speeds

remould

available

quality

or

(they used

RQ);

these

are

have the very slightest of defects or moulding,

but are otherwise

in

per-

If you get the chance to buy these, buy them - to

all intents and purposes It's

not

manufacturers known

name

generally also

they're as good as a new tyre. realised

produce

at a somewhat

that

tyres

the under

cheaper

major

tyre

a less

well

price. These

are

first class buys too - ask any tyre dealer.

Talking of tyre dealers, it's worth they're

mentioning that

the people to go to if you're intent on saving

Diagram showing crossply (left) and radial ply (right) tyre construction

21

SAVE IT!

UU ]

Cross ply

money

(and who

Radial ply

2

Crossply and Radial ply tyres The difference in the construction of the two types of tyre gives them very different characteristics. The crossply (1) has a uniformly strong tread and wall bracing. This gives it better cushioning properties but allows some deformation on bad surfaces and cambers. The radial ply tyre (2) has a supple wall and a firmly braced tread, ensuring that the maximum area of tread is kept in contact with the road despite suspension angle changes and road camber effects. On no account should the two types of tyre be mixed on the same axle

isn’t these days?). Unless there’s a

‘special offer’ going, the most

expensive place to get

new tyres will normally be your local garage.

Now let’s just tyres last. First, Filling Station Second, drive in them out (i.e. no

briefly consider how to make your keep them inflated properly (see Facts for the correct pressures). the way that’s least likely to wear race-track starts or cornering); third,

make sure your shock absorbers are working properly; and

fourth,

properly.

The

make

sure

last two

the points

wheels are

dealt

are

balanced

with

in the

5000-mile Service Schedule.

Batteries Next to tyres, batteries are the most commonly parts sold by specialists. A top quality battery may cost up to three times the price of the cheapest

found

Typical battery construction

one that'll fit your car.

Once

again, price is related

to the quality

of the

product, but isn’t necessarily directly proportioned. A battery with a twelve month guarantee ought to last that long and a little bit more, but batteries always seem to fail at embarrassing or inconvenient times so it's worthwhile getting something a little bit better.

used (lots of short journeys will mean condensation remaining inside the exhaust system and helping it to

Many of the accessory shops and tyre dealers sell good quality batteries with two or three year guarantees. Buy one of these - it'll be worthwhile in the long run

ment exhaust (or maybe just part of the system) is one

and still cost quite a bit less than the dearest ones around. And if you look after it, it'll look after you,

too.

22

average car gets through several in the course of its life, the actual

The best place to go when your car needs a replace-

of the specialist ‘exhaust centres’ which have sprung up in recent years. They keep huge stocks to fit most mass-produced cars, and offer free fitting as well as discount prices on the parts themselves. You'll almost certainly show a worthwhile saving compared with getting your Chrysler dealer to fit the exhaust (which

Exhaust systems The systems

rust out more quickly).

will involve labour charges as well). exhaust number

depending on the sort of journeys for which the car’s

If you're planning to keep your car for several years it would certainly be worth thinking about an exhaust

system

made

from

stainless steel. It'll norm-

SAVE IT! ally cost you considerably more than an ordinary mild steel

replacement,

but on

the other hand should

last

the remainder of the car’s life. If you're interested, talk it over with one of the exhaust specialists - they‘re usually stockists of the stainless steel kind too.

SMITHS FUEL CONSUMPTION

Lubricants and the like Good cheap engine oils are available, but because it's so difficult to find out which cheap ones are good, it's safest to stay clear of them. There are plenty of good multigrade engine oils on the market and quite a few are available at sensible prices from the D-I-Y motoring and accessory shops.

Unless buy

oil

circumstances in pint

expensive

way

filling station.

gallon)

or of

should

half-litre buying,

The

you

This

(they

for most

to, don’t

is the

particularly

big 5-litre

cans are adequate

force

cans.

most

if it's from

used

a

to be one

purposes

and con-

Smiths Industries’ ‘Milemiser’, a type of engine performance or vacuum gauge, can significantly improve fuel economy by monitoring driving technique

tain more than enough for an oil change. If your pride and joy’s a bit of an oil burner, you may need an extra

generally

accepted

can for topping up between

functions

being to prevent

oil changes.

Oil is also available in larger drums fitted

with

saving.

a tap) sometimes

A telephone

(which can be

at an even

bigger price

call or visit to nearby wholesalers

the

piston

as a good

rings and

Economy devices

Antifreeze is always cheaper if you go to the motoring shops, but bulk buying doesn’t normally

economy

because

you

never

need

to buy

it in any

real

quantity. As for greases, brake fluid, etc., you'll save a little

ring grooves,

of its main

building

which

up around

means

that

the piston rings can seal more effectively.

may well prove worthwhile.

apply

thing, one

carbon

If we

could devices,

believe everything published about we'd be able to fit the lot and end

up with a car that would save more fuel than it used! Obviously this isn’t going to happen, and the evidence produced

by

the

motoring

magazines

doesn't

lend

at the motoring shops but again you'll never need large

much weight to the various manufacturers’ arguments.

quantities

If you're considering fitting any of these items (which range from manifold modifiers to spark boosters and

- just

make

sure

that you

buy

something

that’s good quality.

fuel

Fuel fue!

Your car’s designed to run on a particular grade of (star rating). Don't buy fuel that’s of a higher

rating than this, because you’re wasting your money. On the other hand, if you buy a lower rating fuel your engine performance (and probably your engine too) will suffer. If you are forced to buy inferior fuel, drive carefully until you can get the correct

circumstances

by a couple

it’s also beneficial

grade; in these

to retard the ignition

of degrees, but you've got the bother of

resetting it again later.

Additives Oil and fuel additives have been with us for a long time come.

and

no

doubt

It’s pretty

will be around

for many

years to

unlikely that there are any bad addi-

tives around, but there’s not a great deal of evidence to suggest that there are many good ones. The major oil manufacturers will tell you that their oils are adequate on their own, in which case you'll only need additives if the oil you're using isn’t much good. A fuel

pressure

independent

additive

of the upper

cylinder

lubricant

type

is

regulators),

try

to

get

hold

of some

reports before parting with your money.

Vacuum gauge Also

known

as a performance

gauge

or fuel con-

sumption gauge, this can loosely be termed an economy device because its purpose is to tell you how to use performance in the most efficient way. An engine that’s running efficiently will be using all the fuel/air mixture in the inlet manifold for any given

throttle opening, and in doing so it causes a fairly high suction past the throttle butterfly. The maximum suction it can produce varies, but could be over 20

inches of mercury (that’s around 10 psi) relative to atmospheric pressure. If you've got one of these gauges, (and there’s some information about fitting one in The Personal Touch) try to drive with the maximum vacuum reading all the time and you'll certainiy save some money on fuel.

Engine tuning This term

is much misused; it simply means getting (or sometimes one

the best performance and economy

23

SAVE

IT!

at the expense of the other) from the standard engine. You'll have a job to improve on the specifications and settings must

laid down

by the car manufacturers,

be your obvious

guidelines.

You

may

so these be able to

get different needles for the Zenith/Stromberg carburettors, fitted to the higher performance engines, but the power output may be affected. Having driven

ally

standard

filter,

many

Imp

of miles

using a ‘pancake’

we've found

and performance,

thousands

an improvement

although

in a basic-

sports-type

in both

air

economy

there’s an increase in noise

level. These filters are a wire-gauze type and make for a much

simpler

cleaning

procedure

than

renewal

of

the element(s) for the dry paper type. Regular maintenance is the most important factor in keeping the engine in a good state of tune (e.g. spark plugs, distributor points, ignition timing, carburettor adjustments, air cleaner, valve clearances), but take

care

that

things

mar

this.

If you

like over-adjusted

can

brakes

look after all these

things, the

Driving habits economy

yourself,

simply

can

do

to

improve

by your method

the

of driving.

car's

It’s very

been

roof

rack still attached?

made

always remove

Insurance Like some the

service

of the other things that we've discussed,

you're

going to get from

company

will

be

related

obtained.

A cheap

will

speed,

and

careful

produce

the

same

economy, try

starting

off;

a moderate

a claim, and then

keeping

the car

throttle

the

accelerates

down

just a little

more,

involved

inspect

the

There

damage?!

are

policy

driver

one

or

pedal

in the same

- you

may

need

press

position to ease

it

next

time

you

What what

have

fuel

it all adds

you

can

get

No

of reducing for ‘owner

drivers’. or an agreement scheme

insurance

claim.

Many

large

for their employcompany;

this also

fill up

with

pedal with care. waster.

Similarly, fuel.

weather you'll need to use the choke The secret, though,

is to push

as possible; experiment

it can

Excessive

use

- you

economy,

but results in unburnt

choke

may not

the oil and excessive engine wear.

to see

surprise yourself. only

mixture

in the way

of discounts:

and

(3)

Buying Spare Parts Apart from the oils and greases which you're going to need, it won't be long before you have to buy a few and

Please

pieces

do

traded-in

to

remember

affects

the

possible,

same

as

things

to clean check

the

running

smoothly.

up any parts which

are

basis (e.g. brake shoes) and, that any

old

ones,

replacement

either

by

parts

direct

if this can be done, or by reference to any in the appropriate

Section

of this

book. Spare parts and accessories are available from many

sources, but the following should act as a good guide when they're required.

fuel

getting into

Considerably

keep

on an exchange

of the illustrations

is using unnecessary

how soon

a member.

up to is: (1) Insure well; (2) See

it too hard -

comparison

lights to turn green

the

by insuring

or so of any

a discount

‘blipping’ the throttle pedal while impatiently waiting

be done

legitimate ways

perhaps

or ‘two named

for the

of

my

Find out exactly what you're covered for.

wherever

engine.

it affect

the Motoring Associations if you’re

look

a cold

will

greater

is another

the lever as soon

to

clutch,

you have to change down, there’s no need to rev

down

cover

need

much

engine

to start

‘How

or two

the first £20

companies

your

in warm

you

=

premium,

only’,

When

Even

until

of the

with

using the accelerator

- this

good

the sort of snags you're going

Claims Bonus?’

bits

way,

the

engagement

Changing through the gears should be done in just the same

of

result

but don’t

the

insurance

cost

applies to bank and Civil Service employees. You may also get a better bargain by insuring through one of

there’s just no need for it. The little time saved in accelerating will be outweighed by the additional time and cost petrol.

your

the

to come across are ‘How do | get hold of an assessor to

and only a little more slowly. Once moving,

while

to

policy’s

ees if they use the same

when

have

it when it’s not in use.

clutch

violently

estimates

obvious - don’t use a roof rack unless you have to, and

sensibly. There’s no need to race the engine and let the slip

Many

of the increase in fuel consumption caused

by a roof rack due to wind resistance, and the generally accepted figure is around 10%; with a loaded rack, this figure can be as high as 30%. The moral, then, is

to pay

engine

24

how often do you see cars being driven around with an empty

else cares anyway!). driving is to use the pedals

miles of stop/

The ever-faithful roof rack has proved a boon to sO many motorists for the extra holiday luggage, but

the

art of economical

in a few hundred

Roof racks

tempting at times to do a ‘grand prix’ start from the traffic lights, or to change down and floor the accelerator just to show yourself that you can do it (nobody The

occurs

engine on long journeys.

make

With the car in a decent state of tune, there’s a lot you,

wear

start motoring from cold, than in many times this mileage of driving with a thoroughly warmed-up

don’t

rest’s up to you as the driver.

that

engine

more

Officially appointed Chrysler garages Although

a

Chrysler

garage

should

be

able

to

SAVE

O WHEN ORDERING CHASSIS N2 & ENGINE N& COLOUR CODE

PARTS

IT!

PLEASE QUOTE

Early type vehicle identification plate

Engine number (arrowed)

Chassis number plate on later models (arrowed) supply just about everything for your car, it will gener-

components

ally be found pay.

braking

that the prices are higher than you need

on

In recent

the

an

engine,

and

exchange

gearbox,

often

basis.

provide

They're

suspension

and

guaranteed

particularly

parts

useful

to

the more advanced do-it-yourself motorist.

Other garages have

of

systems,

years

introduced

the big British

a replacement

car

manufacturers

parts scheme

whereby

Vehicle Identification Numbers

they market parts for each others cars under trade names such as Mopar, Unipart and Motorcraft. You'll pay the same prices as you would from the Chrysler

ories), the very

dealer, but you may well find that your local BLMC

year of manufacture

Ford dealer can supply you

with guaranteed

your Hillman, Singer or Sunbeam, bad thing.

or

parts for

and that can’t be a

When

obtaining spare parts

is all you time

need

when

chassis

least you

number

of your

to know,

you're

know is the model and

car.

For some

items this

but there will soon

asked

which

(and sometimes access-

must

for

the

engine

you'd always

come

a

number

meant

or

to make

a

note of but just hadn't got round to!).

Accessory shops These distributor

are

On early models there is a plate attached to the left

usually

contact

the

best places for getting your

breaker

points,

oil

filters,

brake

sidewall

engine

of the engine

number,

compartment

chassis

number

- this carries the

and car colour code.

the general servicing of the car. They also sell general

models have a chassis number piate on the locking platform and, on some models, there's a body number plate to the right of the bonnet stay

accessories

and charge lower prices but, what's equally

fixing point. The engine number

important,

they

the

shoes,

spark

plugs,

paints etc - the very

have

fan

belts,

things

lubricants,

you're

convenient

touch-up

going to need for

opening

hours

and

Later

bonnet

other

cylinder

can often be found not too far from home.

plates) block,

is on

the

just above

(if it’s not on one of left-hand

or below

side

of

the

the oil pressure

switch (behind the distributor).

Motor Factors Good

factors

Make

will

stock

all the

more

important

a note

of these

numbers

or in the back of this book.

now,

in your

diary

25

Vital Statistics You're

going to need to know

model at some

time or other

most

of the information

in this Chapter which

is applicable to your particular

(even if it’s only to win a bet in the pub!). Let’s go in head first then, starting with the

engine...

Engine Type

4 cylinder, 4-stroke, in-line, overhead camshaft, watercooled

Cubic capacity

875 cc (53.4 cu in)

Bore and stroke

2.677 x 2.377 in (68 x 60.375 mm) Sy

BHP (Net) Saloon/Husky Van

39 at 5000 rpm 34 at 4900 rpm

Sport saloon

51 at 6100 rpm

Torque - Maximum (Net) Saloon/Husky Van

Sport saloon

52 Ib f ft (7.1 kg f-m) at 2800 rpm 49 Ib f ft (6.7 kg f m) at 2800 rpm 52 Ib f ft (7.1 kg f m) at 4300 rpm

Cylinder compression pressures All models except Van Van

185 to 200 psi 175 to 190 psi

Compression ratio All models except Van Van

Firing order

See Ignition System

Idle speed

See Fuel System

Valve clearances

Inlet 0.004/0.006 in 0.004/0.006 in 0.006/0.008 in

Mk. | models

Mk. 11 models (except Sport) Sport

Lubrication system

26

Oil pump type

Eccentric lobe

Oil pressure hot

50 psi

Exhaust 0.006/0.008 in 0.010/0.012in 0.0013/0.015 in

VITAL STATISTICS Oil filter type

Full flow, renewable element

Engine oil type

See Filling Station Facts

Engine oil capacity (including filter)

5% pints % pint

Extra for oil cooler

Cooling System Type

Pressurized, pump and fan assisted with radiator

Thermostat opening temperature

85 to 89°C (185 to 192°F)

Radiator pressure cap setting

7 psi

Fan belt tension

1 in free play under firm thumb pressure midway along

longest run of belt

Coolant capacity (approx)

11 pints

Antifreeze type

BS 3150, ethylene glycol type

Fuel System Carburettor type Single carburettor Twin carburettor Metering needle

Fuel pump

type

Solex downdraught (30 PIH Series) Zenith/Stromberg 125 CDS 6K AC mechanically operated

Air cleaner type

Dry paper element

Fuel tank capacity

Refer to Filling Station Facts

Fuel octane requirement

Refer to Filling Station Facts

Engine idle speed Single carburettor models Twin carburettor models

800 rpm 900 to 1000 rpm

Ignition System Spark plug type

Champion

NYY or RNQY

if resistive ignition leads or

suppressor type plug caps are not used

Spark plug electrode gap

0.025 in (0.030 in for 1976 models)

Distributor type Up to 1973 1973 onwards

Distributor contact breaker points gap

Lucas 25D4 Lucas 45D4 0.015 in

Dwell angle Up to 1973 1973 onwards

57 to 63° 46 to 56°

27

28

VITAL STATISTICS

Direction of distributor rotor rotation

Anticlockwise

Engine firing order

1,3, 4,2 (No.1 cylinder nearest radiator)

/gnition timing (static)

3° BTDC (groove on crankshaft pulley 3 mm to left of timing pointer)

Ignition timing (dynamic)

2 to 5° BTDC at 1000 rpm, vacuum line disconnected

Clutch Type

Diaphragm spring, hydraulically operated

Size Up to chassis Nos.:

B 429003750 B 419093265

5’ in dia.

B 431009818 From chassis Nos.: B 429003751

B 419093266 B 431009819 Clutch fluid type

6% in dia. SAE J1703C or DOT3

SS

Transaxle (gearbox and final drive) Number of gears

4 forward, 1 reverse

Synchromesh

On all forward gears

Gear ratios

Overall ratios

Top

0.852

:1

Third

TiAl

Bey OZ

Second

MESS

8.905

First

Seal

16.595

: 1

Reverse

2.846

13.824

: 1

: 1

Final drive ratio

4.857: 1

Lubricant type

Hypoid gear oil, SAE 8OEP

Lubricant capacity

4% pints

4.138:

7-1 : 1

Driveshafts Type

Two-piece with two universal joints

Universal joint type Inner

Rotoflex (‘doughnut’) type

Outer

Hookes joint (Hardy Spicer)

VITAL

STATISTICS

Braking System Type

Hydraulically operated drum brakes with cable operated handbrake

Brake fluid type

SAE J1703C or DOT3

Minimum permissible lining thickness

1/16 in (bonded linings) or 1/32 in above rivet heads (riveted linings)

Suspension Type Front

Independent wishbone

(swing axles) with coil springs

and telescopic hydraulic shock absorbers Rear

Independent semi-trailing arms with coil springs and telescopic hydraulic shock absorbers

Wheels Type

Pressed steel

Tyres Size

5.50 x 12 crossply OR

155 x 12 radial

Steering Type

Rack and pinion

Turns, lock-to-lock

25/8

Toe-in

1/8 + 1/16 in

Electrical System System type

12 volt

Earth polarity Mk. 1 models

Positive

Other models

Negative

Dynamo

type

Regulator/control box Alternator

Lucas C40—1 Lucas

or C40L

RB 340

Lucas 10 AC or 11 AC (positive earth) OR

16 ACR

(negative earth)

Windscreen wiper motor type Early Sport and Coupé

Lucas 12 WA

Late Sport and Coupé

Lucas

14 W

Californian and Stiletto Other models

Lucas DR 3A

29

VITAL STATISTICS

Bulbs Headlamps (single)

Two Lucas F700 Mk. 10 units

Headlamps (twin)

Four Lucas F575 units

Side lamps Stop and tail lamps Front and rear flashing indicator bulbs Rear number plate bulb Interior lamp bulb

12V,4 or 6W 12V,21/6W 12V, 21W 12V, 6W 12V, 6W ‘Festoon’

Panel lamp bulbs

12V, 2.2W

Headlamp main beam indicator bulb Ignition warning light bulb Flashing indicator warning light bulb Oil pressure warning light bulb

12V, 2.2W 12V, 2.2W 12V, 2.2W 12V,2,2W

Fuses (applicable to 1975 models onwards) Fuse box location Fuse ratings

Dimensions and Weights

Under dash, above steering column shaft See illustration

Saloon and Coupé

Van

Ground clearance (laden)

5% in (14 cm)

6% in (17.1 cm)

Overall length (over-riders add 2% in (5.7 cm)

11 ft 7 in (352.7 cm)

11 ft 7% in (355 cm)

4 ft 1% in (125.3 cm) 4ft 2% in (128.3 cm)

3 #t11% in (121.3 cm) 4 ft 1 in (124.5 cm)

Track rear

4 ft (121.9 cm)

3 ft 10.7/8 in (119.1 cm)

Turning circle

30 ft 3 in (9.2 m)

29 ft (8.8 m)

Wheel base

6 ft 10 in (208.3 cm)

6 ft 10 in (208.3 cm)

Track front Original suspension Low pivot suspension (Husky or Saloon)

Kerb weights Imp de-luxe Super Imp

1560 Ib 1577 Ib

(708 kg) (715 kg)

Chamois

1598 Ib

(725 kg)

Van

1564 Ib

(709 kg)

Imp Sport Chamois Sport Californian Chamois Coupe Husky

1632 1655 1582 1584 1677

(740 (751 (718 (719 (761

Stiletto

1625 lb

Maximum roof rack load (all models)

Ib Ib Ib Ib |b

kg) kg) kg) kg) kg)

(737 kg)

100 Ib (45 kg)

Tools For The Job The tools supplied with the car allow you to jack up and change a wheel (and with certain models also to remove your spark plugs) but nothing else. An additional tool kit is available from Chrysler dealers which, with a bit of luck and ingenuity,

will get you

requirement

for anyone

approaching

the national

this, you

through

the routine servicing jobs, but a selection of good down-to-earth tools is a basic

contemplating

defence

car servicing. The initial outlay, even though it may appear to be something

budget, could well be less than the labour charges for one full service; on top of

will be paying less for the oil and replacement parts by getting them yourself so, provided you've got two

or three hours to spare, you must be on to a winner.

A small the

but important

quality

aspect.

You

point when don’t

have

buying tools is to buy

the very

best in the shops but, on the other hand, the cheapest probably

aren’t

manager

much

good.

Have

a word

with

the

or proprietor if you're in doubt; he'll tell you

what's good value for money. It’s very

difficult

to tell you exactly

what

you're

going to need, but the list below should be a great help

to you

in building

spanners

the

are

other)

double

up a good

recommended

because,

open-ended

tool

although

ones,

kit. Combination

(ring one

they

more

end, open-ended

expensive

than

give the advantages

of

both types.

Combination spanners ranging from % to 1 in AF Adjustable spanner - 9 in Short the

tubular

wheel

spark

nut

plug spanner

spanner

also

serves

(on some

models

Set of feeler gauges

as a spark plug

spanner) Spark plug gap adjustment tool

Set of feeler gauges

Brake adjuster spanner (% in AF, square) Screwdriver 4in blade x % in dia (plain) Screwdriver - 4 in blade x % in dia (crosshead) Pliers - 6in Junior hacksaw

Tyre pump and pressure gauge Grease

gun

(only

for

those

models

with

grease

nipples!) Oil can Fine emery cloth or oil stone

Wire brush (small)

Funnel (medium size) Hydraulic jack or strong screw type Pair of axle stands

(concrete or wooden

block will

do if you’re careful about choosing them) Hose brush

Adjustable wrench

31

TOOLS

FOR THE JOB

Double ended ring spanner

You

may find a pair of metal ramps is a very useful

investment,

stands

providing an alternative to the jack or axle

when

you

want

to get at the underside of the

car but don’t need to remove the wheels. Most ramps available give a lift of between 9 inches and 1 ft and you can, of course, drive either the front or back end of the car on to them - but you'll still need to engage a

gear and chock the other two wheels for safety’s sake. Hopefully, your attempts

at car servicing are going

to show you that it can all be worthwhile, and having worked your way through the various jobs listed in the

Service many

Schedules others

mechanical

you'll be able to see that there are

which wizard.

can

be done

without

For this purpose,

becoming

Haynes

a

produce

a

first class Owner's Workshop Manual for the Imp range which details just about every operation that can conceivably be done on these cars. It'll mean

buying a few more tools, but to hell with it - you're to save yourself some money and get a good job

Out

done in the process.

While mentioning market.

we're

talking

some

about

tools,

it’s

worth

of the tune-up aids that are on the

A visit to a good motor accessory shop can be

an enlightening experience,

of things available. about concern

‘bolt-on

just to show you the cost Later in this book you'll find a bit

goodies’,

but

in this

Chapter

all we'll

ourselves with are three items.

Stroboscopic timing light The most accurate

way of checking ignition timing

(that’s the time at which

engine

running,

pulley

marks.

and

the spark occurs) is with the

(strobe) light is used. This is connected to No. 1 spark plug lead and the beam is shone on to the crankshaft Any

for this a stroboscopic

proprietary

light will

be supplied

with full connecting and operating instructions.

Axle stand

TOOLS

Dwell angle meter This is used for measuring the period of time for which the distributor points remain closed during the ignition cycle of one cylinder, and provides a more

accurate method done by simply

of setting-up the ignition than can be setting the points gap. Dwell angle

meters

normally

counter

if

you

incorporate prefer),

which

a can

tachometer be

useful

(rev for

checking engine idle speeds.

Cylinder compression gauge

FOR THE JOB

an extension lead with crocodile clips which connected to the battery terminals.

can

be

Care of your tools Having ment, the After use, clean, dry

bought a reasonable set of tools and equipeasiest thing in the world is to abuse them. always wipe off any dirt and grease using a cloth before putting them away. Never leave

them

lying around after they've been used. A simple rack on the garage wall, for things you don’t need to carry in the car, is a good idea. Keep all your spanners

This is very useful for tracing the cause of a fall-off in engine performance. It consists of a pressure gauge and non-return valve, and is simply screwed into a spark plug hole. Compression figures are given in Vita/

and the like in a metal box - you can wrap some rags

Statistics.

away so that they don’t get damaged or rusty.

Two

other useful

items are a hydrometer, which is

used for checking the specific gravity of the battery electrolyte (useful for telling you if you have a dud

cell which won't hold a charge), and a 12-volt lamp on

around

them

to stop

them

rattling around

if you're

going to carry them in the boot of the car. Any gauges

Or meters

you've

invested

in should

be carefully put

Do take a little care over maintaining your tools Screwdriver blades inevitably lose their keen edges, and a little timely attention with a file won't go amiss. too.

Service Scene We've now discussed some of the more important features of your car and also given some thoughts to equally things like tools, money saving and so on. Now to the nitty-gritty of servicing - perhaps the very thing

important

you've dreaded for so long? It’s not as mysterious or as difficult as you think ...

The Imp models were an advanced design - perhaps the very thing that made some people fight shy of them. During the early production years numerous minor modifications were introduced, particularly on the engine and transaxle, and these are the sort of

the point of view of servicing there were few

don’t

use

about things as you'd

the car

clock up the mileage

regularly,

and

like to be. If

aren’t

always use the time interval as the basis for servicing.

notice

schedules

that

there

are Spring and Autumn

too, just so that you can make sure the car's

in the best possible state for the season ahead.

cleaner. A trend

we'd

reduce

make

the

has

grown

DON'T

more!

and

inspections

because half the bits aren't there

It's still important at

regular

to do all the servicing

intervals

to

keep

safe, to prolong its active life, and sensible resale value. The old maxim than

cure

could

never

be more

the car

to

maintain

of

prevention

aptly

running DO

wet.

workmanlike

the

fashion,

long run.

to

in

a

its all going to be worthwhile

in

Remember

the

service

that a worn

tasks

part won’t put

itself right, and isn’t a thing to be lived with. Fix it as soon

as you

find it, even

if it's not time for the next

service.

be

them

before

starting

run the engine in the garage with the doors work

in an inspection will tend

pit with the engine

to concentrate

at the

keep

long

hair, sleeves,

rotating parts when

ties and

the like well

the engine’s running.

shock,

particularly

if the

leads

are

dirty

or

DO chock the rear wheels when jacking up the front of the car, and vice versa. Where possible, also apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear. DON’T rely on the car jack when you're working underneath.

In this Chapter, we've tried to present the servicing tasks

can

DON'T grab hold of ignition HT leads when the engine s running - there’s just the possibility of an electric

down

of them

should reduce any accident risk, and

to read through

- the fumes

clear of any

car

getting

99%

lowest point.

a

applied

but

work - it would prove to be very worthwhile.

than in connection with car servicing. Whether it be casting your eagle eye over the general workings of the

or

you

closed. DON’T

any regular attention

rather

like

to

which

happen,

few points which

tends

parts,

do

prevented by taking a little care. We're going to list a

think the car will go on forever without

of moving

all modern

me

Accidents

to

any

with

Safety

cars

number

people

up

likely to

until well after the time interval,

made; grease nipples were added for the steering swivels and, on some models, also for the driveshaft universal joints; a modified cooling system bleed was introduced to simplify bleeding after refilling; a ‘clean air’ crankcase breather was introduced so that crankcase fumes were routed into the air

changes

in

a logical

way

to

jacking up, etc, which may job. The items

minimize

the

amount

of

be a prelude to the actual

listed are basically those recommended

by the car manufacturers, but are supplemented by some additional ones which we think are well worth the extra trouble.

34

was as meticulous you

You'll

things that can give a car a bad reputation.

From

you can really satisfy yourself that the previous owner

If you've recently bought the car, the safest thing is to go right through all the Service Schedules, unless

Axle stands, or wooden or concrete blocks should be used. If you need to use a larger jack it should be placed under the central pivot of the front suspension

or beneath the rear crossmember. If you're careful and use a wooden block on the jackhead to spread the load, you can jack up at the front or rear

sides of the floor pan; don’t try to jack up using the sill panel - it won't take it.

DO wipe up grease or oil from the floor if you spill

any (and you will do, sooner or later).

SERVICE SCENE

Dipstick location

Close-up of markings

DO get someone to check regularly that everything's OK if you're likely to be spending some time underneath the car. DON'T

use a file or similar tool without a handle. a nasty gash if something goes

The tang can give you wrong.

DO make sure when you're using a spanner, that it's the right size for the nut and that its properly

fitted before tightening or loosening. DO

brush

away

any

drilling

swarf

paintbrush - never your fingers.

DON’T

allow

corrosion happen,

battery

to contact wash

off

acid

the skin

with

an

old

'

or

battery

or clothes.

immediately

with

terminal

If it should

plenty

of cold

running water.

th: ig =)»,

DON’T rush any job, - that’s how mistakes are made. If you don’t think you'll finish the job in time, do it tomorrow, but try not to make this an excuse for forgetting about it. DO

take care when

on the paintwork take

the

paint

pouring brake

and isn’t removed

off.

And

wash

your

fluid.

If it spills

immediately, hands

it'l|

well after-

wards as it’s poisonous.

SERVICE SCHEDULES Every 250 miles, weekly, long journey oil,

water/antifreeze

(see Save It!) the car’s on a level surface. Wait about a minute if the

engine’s

been

or

before

a

mixture,

distilled

water, brake and clutch fluid, tap water.

Lint-free cloth, tyre pump, tyre tread depth gauge.

running

(to allow

all the oil to drain

back to the sump), then pull out the dipstick and wipe it clean (the dipstick is tucked down between the distributor

and

underneath

the

Van/Husky

The following items are likely to be needed: Engine

Topping up the oil level. A pint can is useful for measuring but it’s the most expensive way to buy oil

and check

starter

motor

rubber

models).

on

plug

Now

Saloon

on

the

models,

or

panel

on

rear

insert it, again, pull it out

the level. If its on the low side, add oil to

bring

it up

don't

overfill

to

the

upper

mark

it because

clutch.

The

oil

filler’s

cover

(on

Van/Husky

on

it may

on

the

the dipstick, leak

end

models

out

of the

the

filler

into

but the

camshaft

tube

is

extended up to the rear panel); don’t forget to make sure that the cap’s refitted properly after topping up, and carefully wipe up any drips of oil.

7 Check engine oil level The

correct

lubrication

engine

and cooling.

oil level is essential To check

it, make

for proper sure that

2

Check engine coolant level This should

only be done

when

the engine is cool,

SERVICE SCENE and

again

the car should

be on a level surface.

The

filler cap’s on top of the radiator at the left of the engine compartment; on Van/Husky models you'll have to remove the hatch cover first (see /n The Driving Seat). \f for any reason it’s really essential to remove cloth

the filler cap with the engine hot, use a thick and

turn

the cap

slowly

anti-clockwise

to the

first stop to ailow the pressure to escape, then press it in and turn it further.

With a cold engine, the coolant to the bottom the

system

level should be up

of the filler neck.

with

If necessary

top up

of the same strength as already being used in the cooling system. If you're not using anti-freeze, you should use a cooling

a water/antifreeze

system

information Schedule.

inhibitor,

never

mixture

water

alone;

more

on this is given in the 20,000 mile Service

If you're really desperate, and provided that

only a very little is needed, you can top up with water,

but

remember

that

you're

diluting

the

mixture

strength which is obviously not a good thing. If you system,

find you're repeatedly first

pump

seal,

check and

the

see

hoses,

if you

having to top up the hose

can

clips

find

and

out

water

where

it's

going. If you can’t, the chances are that you've got the dreaded

cylinder

particularly

block

prone.

corrosion,

Provided

to which

Imps are

it's tackled in time

it’s a job for the local Chrysler man) this may

(and

not be

too serious, but never delay in getting it looked

the problem

should

turn

out

at. If

to be the water pump,

get this looked at too because it can seize up, and that means the car will be out of action. When you've finished topping up, don't forget to refit the radiator filler cap.

Battery with filling cover removed

3

Check battery electrolyte level Tucked

away

compartment

Husky cell

models)

caps

or

in the right-hand corner of the engine

(underneath

you'll

filling

level. Depending

on

the

small

panel

find the battery.

cover,

and

check

the battery

the

plates.

If it’s on

distilled water

the

type, it should

low

Van/

the

the electrolyte

to the perforated splash guard, or just above

of

on

Remove

side,

be up

the tops

add a

little

to bring the level up - don’t overfill

or

splash the distilled water about, or it'll collect dirt and dust. to

If you haven't got distilled water, it’s permissible use the ‘frost’ which collects in the fridge or

freezer,

or

even

to

boil

up

some

water

in the kettle

and let it cool, but don’t make a habit of doing it because there's no substitute for the real thing if you want the battery to last its full life. When

cover

and

terminals

36

you've

wipe are

topped

up

clean

any and

up, refit the cell caps or filler

spilt liquid. Check tight; and of course,

that the on

Husky models, refit the battery cover afterwards.

Van/

Access to battery on Van/Husky models

SERVICE SCENE

a

”

s

The hydraulic fluid reservoir

The bag-type screenwash reservoir

4

tread depth. The law states that the tread depth must be not less than 1 mm throughout at least three-

Check brake and clutch fluid reservoir level

The hydraulic fluid reservoir (which serves both brakes and clutch) is on the front panel of the luggage compartment on the nearside (right-hand side as you look at the car from the front). Unscrew the cap and check

the fluid level. If it’s fallen, bring the level up to

the top of the dividing wall, using the correct type of brake/clutch fluid; on no account below the danger mark. If you find you're having to regularly,

more

there

must

(that’s

the

side

compartment),

the put the up

be

likely to be from

a leak

let the

level

fall

nearest

the

entire

of the

outer

edge

of

the

luggage

likely point of leakage is

wheel cylinders. If this is happening, it must be right straight away; further information is given in 5,000 mile Service Schedule. When you've topped the fluid level, make sure the vent hole in the cap is

breadth

of the tread and

circumference

round

the

of the tyre. You can buy

tread depth gauges for checking this, but a 2p piece is just about as good. Insert it in the tread and check that it’s at least up to the line of dots around the edge of the coin. Check

top the level up somewhere. This is

the brake side of the reservoir

and the most

quarters

too that there are no cuts, bulges, etc in the

tyre tread or wall. This is best done by jacking up and turning each wheel, but if you really can’t be bothered to do this, push the car about a foot along the ground so that you can get a good look and feel all round. Pay special attention to the rear wall of each tyre - the one you can’t normally see.

7 Check tightness of wheel nuts While

you're

looking

at the tyres it’s a good time

clear, then refit it.

to check the tightness of the wheel nuts. Take off the

&

hub cap or trim plate (see /n An Emergency) and just check that the nuts are tight using the spanner

Top up windscreen washer reservoir

The washer reservoir’s tucked down inside the luggage compartment at the offside (left side if you're facing the car from the front). Add water as necessary to bring the level up to the top. A detergent type windscreen cleaner can be added to the reservoir too if you wish, because it helps to remove the road film and general dirt deposits which form on the windscreen

supplied for the job - no need to stand on it, the wheels will have to come off again sooner or later!

8

Check that all the lights work Switch

on the car lights and check that they’re all working correctly. Don’t forget to include the direction indicators and brake lights, either by getting someone

and wiper blades.

to

watch

while

you

operate

them

or

by

looking for the tell-tale reflection on the garage wall or

6

Check tyre pressures and condition Using

garages

are

your

own

not

every

motorist

abuses

them),

renowned

except check

cold; the correct

Facts.

tyre you

pressure for their

drops

the tyre

gauge

adjacent

(those

accuracy

at

because

them and generally

pressures

when

they're

pressures are given in Fi/ling Station

While you're doing it, keep an eye on the tyre

car.

(Shop

windows

can

provide

a useful

check

on brake lights - try it next time you're parking

in the

High Street).

find the secret Emergency. makes

rear.

And

If any bulb needs renewing, you'll

of how while

to get at it revealed in /n An you're

checking

the lights, it

sense to see that the lenses are clean, front and

Q

7 Dipstick 2 Oil filler 3 Radiator cap

& is) s iS oO s © NY

>

&=

3 — = o o mS im)AS ® is)S S ~

4 Air cleaner

5 Battery 6 Distributor

Bottom radiator hose connection. signs of leaking

q

—~

iS ib)iS

~

7 Fuel pump 8 Carburettor 9 Generator

This one shows

SERVICE SCENE

9

Relax

to the

You've completed the first of the Service Schedules - admittedly the simplest, but you'll now feel more familiar with the car and be ready to tackle something slightly more ambitious ...

Every 5,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first Engine oil, oil filter element, paraffin, general-purpose grease, Vaseline, transaxle oil, non-setting gasket sealant, container to catch waste

gauges,

oilstone

spanners

or

fine

and screwdrivers, feeler

emery

cloth,

behind

compartment

forward.

The

ones

the fibreboard

panel in the

so this will have to be pulled

buried

in the sill panels

(perhaps

this is news to you?) obviously can’t be seen, but the condition of the others will give you some idea of how good

these

soon

as

are.

you

If you

can;

need

don’t

new

hoses,

wait, the

Imp

get them

as

engine's

an

expensive one and it’s not worth the risk of distorting the cylinder head for the sake of a dodgy hose.

The following items are likely to be needed:

oil, miscellaneous

heater are

luggage

clean

dry

Hose

renewal

is pretty straightforward, except for

those in the sill panels (these as you might imagine are a job for the local Chrysler man). You'll need to drain off some of the coolant, but you'll information you need in the 20,000

Schedule.

Where

any

new

hoses

or

find mile

all the

Service

clips are fitted,

paintbrush, smal! wire brush. You may also need:

recheck their tightness at the next 250 mile service.

Replacement

3

brake

linings, wiper blades, fan belt.

Provided

7 Clean radiator core A considerable amount

of dirt will build up in the

radiator core if it’s allowed to, and this will lead to overheating problems. A lot of it can be loosened by using an

old paintbrush and working through the fan blades, but the only really effective way of doing the job is to use an airline at the local garage. This only takes

a

minute

or

two,

but

don’t

wear

your

best

clothes to do it because you may get a bit dirty. While you're in this region of the engine compartment, just make sure the rubber gaiter round the fan cowl isn't damaged,

or

this

will

Clean and check battery

lead

to a fall-off

in cooling

all you

need

terminals.

do

terminals

is smear

If you've

the specific

shown

the battery

gravity

got

are clean and tight,

a little

Vaseline

a hydrometer

over

the

you can check

of the battery. This should

be as

in the table, and if any cell is low, it’s a sign of

possible early failure.

Cell fully charged

1.270 - 1.290

Cell half charged Cell fully discharged

1.190 - 1.210 1.110 - 1.130

If your battery's got corrosion problems (a whitish growth around the terminals and possibly round the battery

carrier),

remove

the battery

leads and clamp,

and lift the battery out. Clean off as much as you can,

efficiency too.

but don’t get it on your hands or clothes because it’s

2

Check engine compartment and heater hoses

Spend a few minutes checking the condition of the hoses and the tightness of their clips. The hoses

nasty

stuff.

Mix

up

a solution

of warm

water

and

bicarbonate of soda, and brush it on to the areas affected, but make sure it doesn’t get into the battery

Engine oil dipstick (A) and filler cap (B) on Van/Husky models

Lubrication

Chart

(car viewed from beneath)

Main lubrication points: 1 Engine

2 Transaxle

“a

3 Steering swivel pins (except Mk | models)

4 Front wheel hubs

5 Drive shaft joints

(some models) RECOMMENDED

LUBRICANTS

Engine

Multigrade oil 20W/50

Transaxle

SAE 80 EP

Carburettor piston dampers (Zenith/Stromberg)

Multigrade oil 20W/50

Distributor cam

Petroleum jelly

Battery terminals

Petroleum jelly

Distributor lubrication points

Multigrade oil 2OW/50

Dynamo rear bearing

Multigrade engine oil

Grease nipples (where applicable)

General purpose grease

Wheel bearings

General purpose grease

Hinges, linkages, pivots, etc.

Multigrade oil 2OW/50

Clutch slave cylinder pushrod pivot

General purpose grease

Brake and clutch fluid

SAE

Antifreeze

BS 3150, ethylene glycol type

J1703C

or DOT 3

SERVICE SCENE itself. Dry everything carefully afterwards, and lightly smear the lead ends and terminals with Vaseline. If you've got some underseal paint it’s a good idea to paint over the battery compartment and leave it to dry. Now you can refit the battery; after you've tightened the lead clamps, smear a bit more Vaseline on the terminals to prevent corrosion starting again. NOTE: On single carburettor models it may be necessary for the battery to be removed to take out the air cleaner casing. If you

think this is likely to be the case, don’t refit the battery at this stage, but go on

to the next service item.

4 The air cleaner is tucked away at the side of the engine compartment and the element is tricky to get out

Clean air cleaner casing It’s a good idea to clean out the air filter casing at

this time interval, just to get rid of the dust and dirt.

For twin carburettor models, this is straightforward remove the crankcase breather hose from the intake pipe, release

the four spring clips, remove

case

breather

four

spring clips, remove

elements.

hose

from

For single

wing nut and washer

release the screw

the

intake

the cover

carburettor from

Air cleaner component parts - typical for single carburettor models

release

models

remove

the

the recess in the cover, and

clip from the carburettor

to detach

the

and take out the

the cover off and take out the element it necessary

the crank-

pipe,

the breather

body; lift

(you may find

hose, particularly

on Van/Husky models). Now clean out the casing, making sure that on twin carburettor models no dirt gets into the air intake, a vacuum cleaner can be used to suck any dirt out of the casing on single carburettor models. Refitting the elements on twin carburettor models is straightforward, but there can be a problem for other models, particularly if a new element is being fitted. These are packed ‘flat’ and won't readily take up a circular form to fit in the location in the casing and cover. This isn't too bad for Van/Husky models because you can see what you're doing, but on other models you may have to take out the air cleaner casing

(one nut at the bottom), and to do this the battery's got to come out! When refitting, make sure that everything's in place before fitting the cover; on single carburettor

models, don't forget the screw clip on the

carburettor

body. Make sure that the intake pipe is towards the engine during the winter months or further forward during the summer months if yours is the

type

where

breather

hose

was

the

casing

can

disconnected,

be

rotated.

If the

don’t forget to refit

it. Air intake pipe positions

Summer ceiting

Winter setting Adjustment point (on some models the bottom bracket has to be repositioned) SODDS Breather hose

5 Top up Zenith/Stromberg carburettor piston dampers To

ensure

correctly,

that

a little engine

these

carburettors

operate

oil has to be put into the

piston dampers. To check the level, unscrew and raise

41

SERVICE SCENE

I.

: Cal

ee

Feeler gauge

Checking the fan belt tension

Checking contact breaker points gap the damper

plug; when

@,

the level is correct the damper

CL

plug threaded cap should be about % in (6 mm) above the

funnel of the suction chamber when ‘oil resistance’ can be felt.

at the

moment

6 Check fan belt tension This is a very important maintenance item on the Imp and its variants, mainly for the reason that the water pump bearings and seals are prone to failure if the tension isn’t correct. Adjustment’s pretty straightforward, but with an alternator don’t apply leverage anywhere except at the drive end bracket. Loosen the two mounting nuts/bolts, and the two adjusting link nuts/bolts, then move the dynamo or alternator as necessary

to

Statistics).

Don't forget to check the condition of the

get

the

correct

tension

(see

Vita/

belt while your're doing this job - one that’s fraying or has stretched so that all the adjustment’s taken up is at the end of its life. If you have to fit a new one, slacken the adjustment

right off, take off the old belt and fit

the

easing

new

pulleys.

one, After

it over

tensioning

it,

the run

last of the the

engine

and

7 Clean and adjust distributor contact breaker points

right

place,

although

they

should

be the

right

length for their respective plugs; also unscrew the main HT lead at the ignition coil so that the cap can be removed completely. We might as with this item - wipe over the leads with a cloth and carefully look for any signs of the

and leads well start clean dry insulation

leads to a reluctance for the

cause of many a mysterious engine misfire. Check that

While we're attending to this, it’s a good idea to do all the other jobs associated with generating of the ignition sparks. the distributor cap (two spring clips hold

it in place) and the spark plug leads - if you think it's

42

the

cracking. Do likewise with the distributor cap and spark plug caps; a cracked distributor cap has been the

engine to start and a slight loss of engine performance.

Remove

71 LT lead 2 Pivot post 3 Moving contact spring arm 4 Insulator 5 LT connecting plate 6 Capacitor lead

breaker

After a long period in service, the contact

deteriorate which

Later type contact breaker

three

recheck the tension; repeat this check at the next 250 mile service because you may find that the new belt has stretched.

points

is4

necessary, mark the leads to make sure they go back in

the central carbon brush in the distributor cap is free move under spring tension, and scrape off any

to

deposits

from

the electrodes

using a penknife. While

you're doing this also wipe the coil end cap and check

here for cracking too. Now, pull off the rotor and use the penknife tip.

again to remove

any

deposits

from the

SERVICE

SCENE

CAPACITOR

CONTACT BREAKER LEVER

FiXED CONTACTSECURING SCREW

FABRE WASHER TERMINAL PILLAR AXED CONTACT PLATE EARTH CONNECTION

CONTACT BREAKER MOVING PLATE

CONTACT BREAKER PIVOT

CONTACT BREAKER BASE PLATE

Oiling the distributor cam

Early type contact breaker and associated parts

Now for the contacts themselves; two different distributors have been used on these cars, and the later type has a different contact set (although this type of contact can be used on the earlier distributor also). Early type: Remove the terminal nut and washer,

care with this, and when you're satisfied with the surfaces, refit the contacts. This is straightforward, but only

lightly tighten

the fixed contact

securing screw.

LT

Using the starting handle, or by engaging third gear and pushing the car, rotate the distributor cam until the heel of the moving contact is on one of the cam

ignition lead; take off the moving contact and remove the flat insulating washer - make sure that none of these parts fall inside the distributor. Now remove the retaining screw and washer and lift off the fixed

the contact points gap (see Vita/ Statistics). With the feeler between the contacts, insert a screwdriver in the adjustment slot and turn it as necessary to adjust the

the flanged

plastic

bush,

then

the condenser

and

contact. Later type: Slide the condenser and LT ignition lead off the looped end of the moving contact arm, then remove the screw and washer so that the complete contact set can be lifted out. Now for the cleaning. You'll find that one contact has a build-up and the other a slight crater. The two surfaces must be rubbed smooth so that when refitted they'll be flat and square, or very slightly domed. Take

peaks, then select a feeler gauge of the correct size for

contacts When

so that the feeler gauge

it’s OK,

tighten

the

fixed

is a firm sliding fit. contact

screw

and

recheck the gap. Apply contact the cam,

one

drop

pivot, two three

of

drops

engine

oil

to

the

moving

to the screw on the top of

or four drops through

the hole in the

baseplate, and a trace of grease or Vaseline to the cam surface. Refit the rotor, the cap and the ignition leads.

Before you go any further it’s best just to check that

43

Checking plug gap with feeler

gauges

Altering the plug gap. Note use of correct tool

Spark plug maintenance

White deposits and damaged porcelain insulation indicating overheating

Excessive black deposits caused by over-rich mixture or wrong heat value

Broken porcelain insulation due to bent central electrode

Electrodes burnt away due to wrong heat value or chronic

pre-ignition (pinking)

Mild white deposits and electrode burnt indicating too weak a fuel mixture

Spark plug electrode conditions

Plug in sound condition with light greyish brown deposits

SERVICE SCENE

9

the engine: will start! as a slightly more accurate method of setting the points gap. You'll need to use the meter following the manufacturer's instructions carefully. The correct dwell angle for the early and later type distributors is given in Vital Statistics - make sure you're using the correct setting for your car. If the angle’s too small, the points gap is too large and vice versa. Any adjustment is made in exactly the same way as for the points gap as previously

described,

and

may

mean

Clean crankcase breather flametrap Except for the early models, there’s a small circular

If you've got a dwell angle meter, you can use this

can

in the pipe running from the oil filler inlet tube to

the carburettor air cleaner. If your car has one, disconnect the hose connections and soak the breather in paraffin for a few minutes. Swill it round, then allow it to drain and finally shake it dry. When you're satisfied that there’s no paraffin remaining inside, refit it. If there’s any sign of the hoses perishing, get some new ones as soon as possible.

that the

setting’s altered slightly. This doesn’t matter provided that the dwell angle is correct.

10 Clean fuel pump filter and sediment bowl Make central

sure screw

the

engine's

from

cold,

then

the top cover

take

of the fuel

out

the

pump.

Take off the cover, the gasket, and the filter gauze; this can be cleaned using a little petrol and an old

8

Clean spark plugs

toothbrush

Detach

the pump

the spark plug leads then, after making sure

or something similar. Soak bowl

with a lint-free

cloth,

there’s no dirt around the plug seat that might fall into the cylinder, unscrew each plug in turn using a stubby box spanner. Plugs are best cleaned by garages which have a sand blasting machine; wire brushing will do the job, but not so well, and tends to leave a glaze on the

clean

insulator

briefly to make sure there's no leakage.

where

which

can

break

down

electrically.

(This is

being cleaned). When

gap

you're

and

Statistics).

satisfied

adjust

Bend

the insulation.

petrol

moistened

screw

threads

tightened

the

Wipe

the

that outer

condition,

specified electrode

(see or

check

Vita/ you'll

the insulator clean with a

cloth, then apply a drop of oil to the

and

firmly,

with

it to

only

break

cheeks

then carefully

out any sediment that’s remaining but make sure

it doesn’t get into the small valve or it'll find its way into the carburettor.

Check that the sealing ring on the screw is OK and also the gasket, then refit the cover. Run the engine

a spare set of plugs is useful so that you don’t

have the car out of action just for the sake of the plugs

the

up any fuel in

refit

but

no

each

plug.

white

- you ve got to get them

They

knuckles

should

be

or bulging

out again sometime!

11 Lubricate applicable) For body starter

those

is more motor

alternator

dynamo models

with

rear

a dynamo

or less the same which

bearing (the

(where dynamo

size and colour as the

is behind/below

it, whereas

an

is a shorter, fatter affair and usually lighter

in colour), apply a few drops of engine oil to the lubrication hole in the rear end cover. You'll need a very small can or one

get to

it properly.

with a flexible or bent spout to

Make

sure

any

oil that’s spilt is

Refit the plug leads and the job’s done.

wiped up afterwards.

Using the larger end of the box spanner supplied, to remove a spark plug

Removal of the fuel pump cover reveals the gauze filter

SERVICE SCENE

The silencer should be checked for security and freedom from leaks

Adjustment points for dynamo

the

local

the

two

Chrysler

man

carburettors

or tune-up specialist, because

to be synchronized. For single carburettor models setting is much more easily done. Run the engine up to normal operating temperature, and check whether the engine speed and exhaust note are even, with no indication of ‘Iumpiness’; if you've got a dwell meter/tachometer, connect

it

instructions Statistics). idle

up and

have

according

check

to

the

the manufacturers’ idle speed (see Vita/

\f everything’s OK, all well and good; if the

speed

needs adjusting, rotate the idle speed adjusting screw clockwise to increase or anti-clockwise to decrease speed.

If you you'll

the

idle

speed’s

the mixture

uneven screw.

or

lumpy,

To correct a

lumpy exhaust note (and probably a sooty exhaust) turn the mixture screw clockwise to weaken the mixture; for an idle speed which tends to race a little then slow down, turn the mixture screw anti-clockwise to richen the mixture. You may find that the idle speed wants adjusting during this check, and that a second attempt has to be made at mixture adjustment

Carburettor adjustment points and jets

A B Cc D

think

need to tweak

Main jet holder or plug Slow running jet

Mixture (volume) screw Idle speed (slow running) screw

too.

12 Check condition of silencer

On

You'll need to jack up the rear right-hand corner of the car to be able to see the silencer properly, but this job should be done before checking the engine idle speed (below). Look for any signs of the casing corroding away; this occurs mainly at the forward facing end and opposite the inlet pipe. If there’s any rot there,

get it seen

to straight away

because

it can

lead to dangerous fumes getting inside the car.

13 Check engine idle settings

46

Any adjustment of twin carburettors is best left to

all models,

apply a few drops of engine oil to

all the pivot and linkage points of the carburettor(s).

14 Lubricate

clutch

slave

cylinder

pushrod

pivot Reach

forward

in the engine compartment

you can feel the pushrod This

is on

so that

of the clutch slave cylinder.

the other side of the attachment

flange of

the cylinder, which has a bleed nipple and heavy flexible pipe attached to it. When you've located the pushrod,

work a little general-purpose

grease

the pivot at the forward end with your fingers.

around

SERVICE SCENE

15 Lubricate locks, catches, etc. Using engine rear window, compartment

oil, apply

a few drops

to the door,

luggage compartment lid and engine lid hinges, catches, door check links,

seat adjusters,

pedal pivots, etc. general-purpose grease on the Apply a drop or two of oil to the ‘in the locks two or three times.

Put a thin smear

of door lock strikers. keys and insert them Sparingly oil the gear

change lever ball joint (under the rubber boot). Wherever you've used oil or grease, remember to wipe away any surplus with a rag afterwards. If you

don't, someone

else will probably

do it for you

on

their best suit or dress, and that could be the end of a perfect friendship!

16 Clean door drain holes Leaves and dirt will collect around the drain holes in the bottom of the doors if they're not cleaned out from time to time, and this will lead to rust setting in. A piece of stiff wire can be used to make sure they're

clear, and the whole job only takes a minute or two.

17 Check condition of seat belts Have a good look round the seat belt anchorage points to make sure the fixings are tight and there’s no rust setting in. If there’s any corrosion that looks the slightest bit suspicious, have a word with the local Chrysler man - it’s better to be safe than sorry with something like this. At the same time, check fraying or cuts and, if there’s some

replacements

manufacturers will already restrained

while

the any

you're

belt such

material damage,

still

able!

for get The

tell you that any belt which has someone in a serious accident

Exploded view of the oil filter 1 Relief valve assembly

2 Relief valve joint

3

Filter case retaining nut 4 Rubber sealing washer used under nut 5 Filter main body 6 Filter case ‘O’ ring 7 Filter element 8 Element support plate 9 Felt washer 10 Steel washer 11 Element support spring

12

Filter case

should be renewed, so bear that in mind too.

18 Change engine oil and renew filter This job should be done after warming up the engine for a while, ideally after a run, so that it flows out more readily. It’s the first of the really dirty jobs, and

if you’re

good idea to tackling first. car jacked up extra working models with

the sump

not

familiar

with

the procedure,

it’s a

jack up and have a look at what you're You can do the job with the rear of the if you like because it gives you a bit of room, unless you've got one of the early the drain plug at the rear-facing end of

(with this type, if you jack the rear of the

car up, the last of the oil will run forward

and won't

drain out). You'll need a container that holds around six pints,

and which isn’t too tall (something like a plastic washing-up bowl will do the job). Put this in position beneath the drain plug, then use a 1 in AF spanner to loosen it. Remove the plug and allow the oil to drain out; it’ll run all over your hand too (it always does!)

Engine oil sump drain plug

47

SERVICE

SCENE

Engine oil filter housing

Transaxle filler/level (upper) and drain (lower) plugs

but with a bit of agility you should be able to prevent it running right up your arm. If the drain plug drops

drain or dig a hole to bury it; if you can’t get rid of it

into the container, don’t forget it’s there and throw it

dustman have it.

away!

It'll take about

15 minutes

any

other

way,

put

it in

an

19 Check transaxle oil level

make

three-handed

sure that the drain plug hole and plug are clean.

a little non-setting

and

sealant to the plug washer,

contortionist, but anyone

it a little more

lower the car to the normal

filter case.

remove

it'll be stiff

Now,

else may

side of the car, remove

the wheel

reach up to the transaxle filler/level plug and it (it’s about halfway up the casing, just in

front of the drive shaft, on the ribbed part).

oil out of the case, but don’t let the element come

out

little

until

the

level's

oil

has

finished

flowing.

Then

tip out

filter, support plate, felt washer, steel washer and spring. Throw away the element, clean all the other bits in paraffin, and dry them

thoroughly

with a lint-

then

level and support it firmly.

because there’s an O-ring to seal it, and when it does more oil will spill if you're not careful. Tip the

If you

come

find

For improved access, raise the

rear

pull off the filter case;

left-hand

tricky.

Now for the filter. With the container beneath the filter bowl, remove the domed nut from the top of the

the

let the

Checking the oil level’s a simple enough job for any

then refit it firmly but not too tightly.

Now

can

for the oil to drain

out; if you've got a second container you can get on with changing the filter element but, if you haven't, Apply

old

can feel inside the filler/level hole with your

finger, correct.

anyway

you'll

be able

If you

can’t

to tell whether do this, top-up

the

oil

with

oil

and you'll just have to chance some

running

down the side of the casing if you overfill it. By using one of the proprietary oils in plastic bottles which

free cloth.

have

Take the O-ring out of the groove in the main body and the sealing washer from the groove in the nut;

reasonably easily (in cold weather, these bottles can be

stood

these

as new ones are

oil

supplied with the new filter element. Fit the new O-ring and sealing washer, smearing them both with

the

two

items can

be thrown

put the whole

away

engine

oil, then

shown

in the illustration. Top up the engine until the

oil level’s up to the upper

run

the

engine

at a fast

lot back

together

as

line on the dipstick, then

idle

warning light goes out. Now

until

the

oil pressure

tube,

you'll

be able

to get

the

oil

in

in hot water for a few minutes; this allows the

to flow

level,

more easily). When you're satisfied with wipe the plug clean and put a little non-

setting gasket sealant on the washer. Wipe around the filler/level hole, firmly tighten the plug, then wipe up

any oil on the transaxle casing. Raise the car a little in preparation

for the next

job, but don’t fit the wheel yet ...

recheck the oil level and

top up as necessary. Finally, make

a filler

sure that there are no oil leaks, then

think about where you're going to put the old oil. You might be lucky in persuading your local garage man to

take the oil off your hands, but he’s got the same problem as you unless he’s got an arrangement with one of the oil companies. Never pour it down the

20 Check for engine and transaxle oil leaks Have a good look round beneath the engine and transaxle for oil leakage. On the transaxle the sort of places you might find leaks are from the drive shaft seals, the flange joints of the casing, the filler/level and drain plugs, and the main selector shaft or detent plug

near the bottom of the forward facing end cover. With

SERVICE SCENE the engine,

oil leakage

might

occur

from

the sump

25 Check tyre wear pattern

gasket, drain plug, oil filter or its adaptor, transaxle flange joint, one of the cylinder block plugs or gasket, distributor drive, crankshaft pulley oil seal, cylinder

NOTE: /f you prefer it, this check can be incorporated with the next one which involves removing the wheels.

head gasket or rocker cover. If you're suspicious about any oil leakage, get it looked at straight away by the local Chrysler man.

Take careful note of the way the tyres are wearing. All early Imps suffered from a much greater degree of wear on the outer edges of the front tyres than on the inner edges due to the camber angle. This is made

21 Check/lubricate drive shaft joints

worse

by fast cornering,

Starting with the left-hand drive shaft, check that the rubbery rotoflex (doughnut) coupling isn’t

shock

absorbers.

showing

wheels front to rear. When you're considering what to do, think ahead to when the tyres may need renewing;

any

signs

of

breaking

up,

and

that

the

coupling bolts are tight. The outer joint is a Hardy Spicer (Hooke’s) type joint, and wear will eventually occur

in the needle rollers. This is heard as a squeaking

Or groaning noise when driving slowly, but it will also be possible to detect any free play by pulling, pushing

and turning the joint. renewal

you

should

Where

low tyre pressures this wear

or faulty

is occurring you can

either have the tyres reversed on the rims or swop the

are you

going to need five, four or two? This will have

a varying effect on your wallet so, if you can, try to plan for it. Don't forget that when renewing your tyres, it’s

If either type of joint requires

get it seen to without

job’s covered in our Owner’s Workshop

delay. The

Manual for the

Imp, but if you think it’s outside your scope, the local Chrysler dealer should do it for you.

Some types of outer joint have grease nipples; if yours have, one or two strokes of the grease gun won't go amiss, but don't try to overdo it. Alternatively you can use an SAE 140 oil in the grease gun, but this is

really

adding

an

unnecessary

complication

into

the

job, even though it’s a Chrysler recommendation.

When

you've

done

the right-hand

shaft, leave the

wheel off in preparation for later jobs. |

22 Lubricate gearshift rod nylon bush While you’re under the car or thereabouts, locate the nylon bush through which the gearshift rod runs. This is inside a small support bracket and it’s about 9 inches from the transaxle end cover. Work some general purpose grease into it with your fingers, and

also on to the shaft either side of it.

23 Check gearshift flexible coupling Between the nylon bush and the transaxle cover theres a double-wound flexible coupling. If shows any sign of distortion or separation of wound layers, get it fixed as soon as possible - it'll to difficult or even impossible gear changes if it’s

end this the lead

not

attended to.

24 Check brake, clutch and fuel pipes While

you're

still under the car (and it may

mean

you'll have to raise the front end a bit too) have a look for corroded, dented or leaking brake, clutch and fuel pipes. These run along the centre of the car near the gearshift rod, and you may need a torch or inspection light to see them properly. If any of them look as

Gearshift rod nylon bush (A) and flexible coupling

though they're going to give trouble, get them seen to

(B)

before it’s too late.

49

H7335

Exploded

view of the front and rear brake assemblies

1 Brake drum 2 Hydraulic pipe 3 Backplate 4 Shoes 5 Pull-off springs 6 Slave cylinder assembly 7 Slave cylinder assembly 8 Piston return spring 9 Piston 10 Piston seal 11 Dust cap 12 Bleed nipple 13 Dust cap 14 Shoe steady pin and retaining clip 15 Backplate 16 Shoes 17 Front pull-off spring 1 18 Rear pull-off spring 19 Slave cylinder body 20 Piston seal 21 Piston 22 Dust cap 23 Cap retaining cap 24 Bleed valve 25 Dust cap 26 Slave cylinder retaining U-plate 27 Handbrake actuating lever 28 Dust excluder 29 Adjuster body 30 Tapered adjuster components 31 Shoe steady pin, spring and retainers

SERVICE SCENE illegal to have a radial and a crossply on the same axle, or to have radials on the front only. The Imp is one of those cars which tends to wander a little if you’ve got radials on the rear only, so, if you‘re changing the tyre types, bear this in mind. Another point with tyres is balancing; this should be done with new ones and again when the wheel is moved to another position on the car. It’s also a good idea to make sure that the wheel’s refitted in exactly the same place on the hub whenever it's taken off for any reason. You can make this easier by marking one stud and the corresponding

wheel hole with a blob of paint.

26 Check and adjust brakes Left-hand rear brake with drum removed A -_ Leading shoe C Wheel cylinder B -_ Trailing shoe D - _ Brake adjuster

At this interval it should only be necessary to adjust the brakes. In fact, unless you're doing an extremely high mileage, that’s probably all that’s required for the rear ones, but the Imp front brakes tend to need regular adjustment which really means

the drums

need

removing

to clean out the dust (and

that’s mostly worn friction material). We'll go through the whole procedure here, but if experience shows that negligible adjustment’s required for the rear brakes, they need only be looked at every

alternate 5,000 miles. Since the right-hand rear wheel should still be off if you're following the procedure, let’s start with this brake, and because one day you'll have to think about renewing the brake shoes and linings, we’ve covered this job towards the end of the section. With the handbrake released, remove the single screw and take off the brake drum; if it’s reluctant to move,

turn

the adjuster at the top

rear

of the back-

plate anti-clockwise as seen from the centre line of the Rear brakes have a single adjuster per wheel

car.

If that’s

reluctant

to move

you'll

need

to put a

drop of penetrating oil on the screw thread. Using a clean, dry paintbrush, from the drum,

remove

all the dust

linings and backplate, then check the

amount of friction lining remaining. If this is down to the limit given in Vita/ Statistics, the linings must be renewed as described later. Also check that the wheel cylinder can be moved a little from side-to-side, and that

there’s

no

hydraulic

fluid

leakage

from

the

cylinder boot (if these two points aren't OK, they need looking at pretty quickly; it’s either a job for the local Chrysler man or again you can do it yourself by following the procedures in our Owner's Workshop

Manual). The drum can now be refitted (don’t forget the

retaining screw), then the adjuster turned clockwise to lock the shoes against the drum. Now

break off the adjuster until the drum can be rotated smoothly, smear a little general-purpose grease round eee

Lower front brake adjuster (right-hand wheel)

the adjuster repeat

screw

the whole

For different.

the

front

thread, procedure

brakes,

then

refit the wheel

and

for the other rear wheel.

the

There are two wheel

layout’s

somewhat

cylinders to check for

51

SERVICE SCENE leakage, but they're both rigidly mounted, and there are two adjusters. When you're taking the drum off there’s no need to release the handbrake, but if the adjusters need slackening they’re both turned anti-

clockwise (viewed from the centre line of the car). When you come to the adjustment there’s a slightly

When fitting the new shoes, fit the springs first, then lever the shoes into position. Don’t forget that the tip of the handbrake lever goes in the rectangular slot at the bottom of the front shoe, and don’t forget the steady pins, springs and washers. Make absolutely

different

sure

procedure

- refit the drum

and screw, then

you've

got the shoes

and springs

in the correct

refit the wheel and press the brake pedal two or three

way round, then refit the drum and adjust the brake as

times

described earlier.

to

centralise

the

shoes.

Turn

the

adjusters

For

the front brakes, you’ve got the additional of two wheel cylinders and a different type

clockwise to bring the shoes hard against the drum, then back each one off two ‘clicks’ and check that the

problem

wheel

why

of steady

spring, but

the wheel is fitted during adjustment, but it’s because the single drum retaining screw won't necessarily pull

the same.

Don’t forget that when

rotates

the drum

down

freely.

NOTE:

squarely

You

whereas

may

wonder

the wheel

does; this

is less critical with the rear brakes. When you've finished the first brake, repeat for the second one. Brake

shoe

renewal:

Let's

start

from

the

point

where the drums were removed, beginning with the rear brakes. Press in and turn each brake shoe steady pin washer to free it from the pin, then remove the washer and spring. Slacken the adjuster completely, then

pull the top of the

slot, and the bottom

from

rear shoe from the wheel

the adjuster

cylinder slot; an

adjustable spanner on the end of the shoe can be used for extra leverage. Repeat this for the front shoe, but

52

where the shoes rub.

the principle

involved

is much

the job’s done, the

brakes have to be adjusted as described earlier.

27 Lubricate steering swivels (where applicable) Later Imps have two grease nipples on each steering swivel. Three or four strokes of the grease gun are needed, or until you see the old grease being forced out of the joint. If you find you're having trouble getting to the nipples you can always remove the wheels, but provided you jack up and turn the wheels on to full lock you should be OK.

28 Check for play in steering linkage and wheel bearings Part of this job will require a second

person

to do

make sure you've got a piece of wire or strong rubber bands handy to hold the piston in the cylinder or you'll get air in the hydraulic system. With the shoes out of their slots, detach the springs, then use your paintbrush to dust out the backplate. Before fitting new shoes, apply a trace of general-purpose grease to the ends of the new shoes where they go into the slots, to the handbrake lever tip and to the four raised points on the backplate

the easy work while you get down below and grovel around. The places you're looking at for wear are as follows:

A grease gun (A) being applied to an upper steering swivel grease nipple. B indicates the lower nipple

Checking a front wheel bearing for wear

Wheel bearings and swivels: With the front of the car raised and properly supported,

hold the wheel top

and bottom and try to rock it vertically. Any free play

you can feel will come from the steering swivels or wheel bearing, and by looking at the rear of the wheel

you'll be able to see if it’s in the swivel; if that’s OK,

SERVICE SCENE RETAINING

got troubles pending here. You might also look at the shock absorber piston rods, or in the case of the rear ones, run your fingers up them; if there’s any indication of oil leakage it’s a sign that they're on the way out.

CLIP

30 Check windscreen wiper blades Road

film and dirt are the real enemies

of wiper

blades, so for your own safety make sure they’re giving a good clean sweep over the windscreen. To remove a blade pull down the clip at the end of the wiper arm and pull the blade off; replacements are just snapped

into place.

the arm

on

pull the arm SERRATED

SPINDLE

If you should

need to reposition

the spindle, release the retaining clip and

off the splined

shaft; when

refitting, it

simply snaps into place when pressed home.

Wiper arm attachment

it’s in the bearing. Steering balljoints: These are the joints at the ends

Every 10,000 miles travelled months, whichever comes first

of the rods leading from the centre of the steering rack

your

lie in front

hand

steering

you'll

while

wheel

of the car and

your

back

friendly

and

be able to feel

movement. mileage

Wear

at the

they're attached

forth.

hold

Contact

assistant

turns

the

any

play

also

inner

ends

occur

after

of the

track

a very rods

air

points

cleaner

(contact set), set of spark

element,

high

to the steering rack, so it’s worth just

1 Fit new distributor contact breaker points Although

you

may

well get away with cleaning the

If you've found any free play you'll need to get it sorted out pretty quickly. It’s either a job for the

points

Chrysler

All the information required 5,000 mile Service Schedule.

or for you

if you'd

like to follow the

procedures given in the Owner's Workshop Manual. Even if the free play’s all right, check that the dust covers on the steering rack and the small dust caps on the balljoints are undamaged,

Onset

of trouble

leaks out and the dirt

gets in.

2

Rear

shock

absorbers

three

times,

for

that new

will

the

small

ones

cost

are fitted.

be found

in the

a new

set of contacts

has been

fitted,

it’s

possible that you'll get a slight alteration in ignition timing. To check the setting, remove the distributor (if not

already

off)

and

either

use

the starting

handle or engage third gear and push the car until the

always

seem

to

last a long

rotor

arm

No.

tyre

check

when

cornering

(this means

is pointing

1 cylinder

cylinder’s

and understeer

even

Check ignition timing

time on Imps, but the front ones aren't noted for their long life. When the front ones lose their stiffness you'll get an awfu! lot of bouncing, problems with excessive wear

or

it’s recommended

When

cap

29 Check shock absorbers

two

involved

because this can be the

as the grease

breather

where

checking here too.

man,

crankcase

element (early models only), non-setting gasket sealant, brake servo air filter (where applicable). Spark plug spanner, ignition timing light (if you have one), miscellaneous spanners and screwdrivers.

(and see) it as up-and-down

can

breaker

plugs,

the joint in

If there’s

12

The following items are likely to be needed:

(track rods) to the steering arms (which are attached to the swivelling hubs). With the front wheels on the ground,

or

the

the one

plug

lead

more

plug

nearest

from

the position

or less in the direction

lead

this

segment.

(Note:

No.

of

1

the rear of the car; follow to

the

distributor

of the segment when

cap

and

the cap’s in

that the car wants to go straight on, when you want to go round!). If you haven't noticed any of these problems, the chances are that everything's OK, but you can do a bit of a check yourself by trying to ‘bounce’ the car at each corner. When it’s bounced

position).

two

contact points in the distributor should be found to be

up

or three

times,

then

let go, the car should come

when released, go down, there’s any more movement

then come up again. If you've almost certainly

Now

turn

the engine

more

if necessary,

in either

direction, until the timing notch on the crankshaft pulley is about % in to the left of the pointer on the water fully

pump/fan closed.

crankshaft

mounting

Watching

clockwise

bracket.

the contacts, and

check

the

At this stage the slowly

turn

point

at which

the 53

SERVICE SCENE

Ignition timing marks (No. 1 piston at top dead centre)

the clamp bolt and turn the distributor slightly. If the contacts open before the c@rrect time, the ignition’s too far advanced; correct it by turning the Vernier in the

R direction

or by turning the distributor slightly

anti-clockwise.

If

the

contacts

open

too

late,

the

ignition’s too far retarded and the opposite adjustment is necessary. Don't forget to recheck the timing after any

adjustment

and,

if

you've

had

to

turn

the

distributor, tighten the clamp bolt.

There's a slightly more ignition light.

timing

These

speed, and mark

on

these,

use

lights

are

got

the crankshaft

lead),

but

method

if you

is shone

pulley.

it following

static

way of setting the

a stroboscopic

synchronized

the light beam

normally connected

Connections for an ignition timing light

accurate

if you've

haven't,

already

on

the

timing engine

to the timing

If you've

the maker's

between

to

got one of

instructions

(it’s

No. 1 spark plug and its don’t

described

worry

because

is suitable

the

for most

practical purposes.

they just open; this should be when the pulley mark is 3 mm

have

to 4 mm

a

contacts

bit

to the left of the pointer.

of

open,

bother but

deciding

this can

exactly

be simplified

You

may

when

the

by using a

Renew spark plugs

All the information for this is in the 5,000 mile Schedule. Don’t forget to make sure that the new plugs are a suitable type, and that the electrode Service

12V bulb of up to about 6 watts rating (e.g. a panel light or sidelight bulb) in a bulb holder with two leads

gaps are correctly set.

attached.

4

Connect

one

lead to a good earth point on

the engine and the other to the moving contact spring or LT lead terminal, then switch on the ignition. The bulb will light at the instant of the points opening. If any adjustment’s 54

3

required, it can be done by means of

the Vernier adjuster

(small

distributors,

later ones

but

on

knurled you'll

wheel) on earlier have

to loosen

Renewair cleaner element

You'll find all the information you job in the 5,000 mile Service Schedule.

5

need

for this

Renew crankcase breather element Early

little

models

domed

had

cover

a crankcase

with

a

breather;

right-angled

this is a

steel

tube

SERVICE coming

out of it, tucked down

If your

car’s

screw,

take

got

one

Clean

the cover

fully,

then

cover

using a non-setting

place.

and

stick

6

and

pipe

a new

remove

take

the

out

central

the element.

in paraffin and dry it carebreather

element inside the sealant to hold it in

gasket

Refit the assembly,

angled tube lies more the engine.

near the starter motor.

of these,

off the cover

SCENE

making sure that the right-

or less parallel to the sidewali of

Check water pump fixings Early-type water pumps

leakage,

but

with

the

were problem

later

designs

items due to

the

snags

were

ironed out. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to check the tightness of all the bolts on the water pump housing and support bracket for tightness.

7 Renew brake servo air filter The sportier assisted the

models

braking

pedal

in the Imp range have a servo-

system,

effort.

At

the purpose first,

these

being to reduce

were

in the

front

luggage compartment,

but they were then put into the

engine

to

your

compartment,

the

car's got one, remove

domed cover

left of the

radiator.

If

the screw and take off the

cover, then throw away the old filter. Wipe the and

sealing

washer

clean,

fit the

new

element,

then refit the cover and retaining screw.

8

Check handbrake cable adjustment After

a very high mileage, it’s possible that the cables will have stretched a little. Normal of the handbrake (after the brakes have been

handbrake

travel

adjusted) got This protective plate must be removed for access to the gearshift rod and handbrake adjuster

more

is four to five ‘clicks’ of the lever. If you've than

this,

prepare

underneath! You'll first

need

to

for a grovelling

jack up the

rear

session

of the car,

tie

/d occasionally be checked and lubricated at these points

55

SER VICE SCENE SeeagIN:

have the Owner’s Workshop

Manual; alternatively, get your local Chrysler man to put things right for you. If the settings are badly out, don’t delay - get it done as

soon as you can. To check the clearances, cold,

then

remove

the

make

sure

camshaft

the engine's

cover

nuts

and

washers using the box spanner. Start with the two middle ones, loosening them by about a half to one turn,

then work progressively outwards in each direction. When they’re all loose, you can remove them,

but

before

lifting

the

cover

off,

put ‘some

newspaper or rag along the right-hand side of the engine because there'll be a little oil leakage as the cover’s taken off. Now turn the camshaft until the No. 1 lobe of the Close-up of the handbrake adjusting point. Turn nutA while preventing B from rotating

(securely chock

the front wheels

camshaft

first) and with the

handbrake off turn the adjusters on both rear wheels (see 5,000 mile Service Schedule) until their wheels are

locked.

You

might

now

find it necessary

to refit

nearest

to you)

is pointing to the

(i.¢. in the direction of the camshaft cover), and you're ready to make your first check. Get out the feeler gauges and select the right one for the exhaust valve clearance (see Vital Statistics), then insert it between the base of cam No. 2 and the tappet which is beneath it. If the gap’s satisfactory,

lobe is pointing upwards

the feeler should

the gap isn’t right, make

be a firm sliding fit; if

a note

of what it is. You can

one wheel and jack up the car on the other side to give

now carry on checking in the same

plenty

clearances, the next one being No. 3 cam (inlet valve),

of working

clearance

underneath

- support

it

firmly before venturing under, though. Remove

the

protective

cover

from

the

floorpan

(eight screws and washers), then turn the adjusting nut A while holding the cable at B (see illustration) until all the cable slackness under

is removed

that

they're

then

refit the protective

tension.

- but not so much

Do this for both

cover

cables,

so that the tongue

is

towards the front. You'll now have to readjust the rear brakes

as

described

previously

and

the

Every 15,000 miles travelled months, whichever comes first

or

the

for the other

table

below

shows

the

best

order

of checking,

because the crankshaft needs to be rotated two turns only, in steps of half a turn: No. 1 cylinder

Exhaust valve

No. 2 cam

No. 2 cylinder

Inlet valve

No. 3 cam

Turn crankshaft 180° clockwise: No. 3 cylinder

Exhaust valve

No. 6 cam

No. 1 cylinder

Inlet valve

No. 1 cam

Turn crankshaft 180° clockwise:

18

No. 4 cylinder No. 3 cylinder

The following items are likely to be needed:

way

but note that after each pair is checked, you'll need to rotate the crankshaft half a turn before the next pair can be done. No, we haven't forgotten No. 1 valve -

handbrake

adjustment should be correct.

Exhaust valve Inlet valve

No. 8 cam No. 5 cam

Turn crankshaft 180° clockwise:

Rocker cover gasket, transaxle oil. 7/16 in AF box spanner, set of feeler gauges, transaxle drain plug spanner (1 in AF), container for draining oil into.

No. 2 cylinder No. 4 cylinder When

gasket

56

(the one

left and No. 2 cam

Exhaust valve Inlet valve

No. 4 cam No. 7 cam

you've done all this, remove all the traces of

from

around

the

camshaft

cover

flange

and

1 Check valve clearance adjustment

cylinder

Whereas checking the valve clearances is a fairly straightforward job for anyone prepared to kneel on

then

the floor and reach at arm's length into the engine compartment, any adjustment is pretty complicated because it involves removing the camshaft and reselecting small shims (thin metal discs) which fit inside the tappets. If you decide to go ahead with the

you've got troubles with leakage), position the cover

checking,

don’t

attempt

any

adjustment

unless

you

head,

wipe

the

taking

care

surfaces

not

clean.

to scratch Fit

the

anything,

new

gasket

(there’s no need for any sealant unless for some reason

on

the studs, then

Tighten

the centre

loosely fit the nuts pair of nuts,

and

washers.

the pair near

No. 1

spark plug, then the pair at the furthest end, then the

pair on the timing chain end. Run the engine check for any oil leakage along the gasket joint.

and

SERVICE SCENE

Checking valve clearances

2 Drain transaxle oil This

was

plug here (it’s just above the oil filter).

a recommendation

in the early

days

of

the Imp models, but was later phased out. If you decide to do this and, on balance, it’s a worthwhile job, the same general instructions apply as for draining the sump. Make sure that the oil’s warm from at least

It's a good idea to flush the system by running from a hosepipe straight through; if you think there’s any build-up of sediment in the system, one of water

the proprietary flushing compounds can be used. Close the drain taps or plugs, then pour 3 pints of a suitable

a short run beforehand, and allow about 15 minutes for all the oil to drain out. Topping-up’s described in

type of antifreeze

the 5,000 mile Service Schedule.

with

tap

engine

The following items are likely to be needed:

Antifreeze, water, plastic or rubber tube 3/16 in (5 mm)

bore x 2 ft long, distributor rotor, distributor

cap, condenser,HT leads. Miscellaneous

spanners

and screwdrivers, container

for draining coolant into.

water

Coolant

Inhibitor)

and

to the top of the radiator.

at about

coolant

Every 20,000 miles travelled or 2 years, whichever comes first

(or if there’s no likelihood of frost,

1/3 pint of Chrysler 2000

rpm,

keeping

a check

fill up Run

the

on

the

level and topping up with water as necessary.

While

this is going on, get ready to bleed any air

out of the system. Connect the bleed tube to the bleed valve on the by-pass junction, and feed the other end

into the top of the radiator (on early models the bleed valve was behind the fibreboard cover in the engine compartment. If your car’s like this, bleed into a bottle or jar, and use the bled-off coolant for topping up). Open

the bleed valve

about two turns and keep

the engine running until coolant flows out in a steady stream.

When

you think all the air’s out of the system,

7 Renewengine antifreeze mixture

by which time the engine will be quite warm

Set the heater control to ‘Hot’, then open the radiator tap or remove the drain plug, and let the

thermostat

will

have

opened,

switch

and the

off, close

the

bleed valve, and fit the radiator cap.

It's a good

idea to run

coolant flow out into a suitable container. When it’s flowing, also remove the radiator cap to speed up the

mile or two as soon

flow. When the flow stops, transfer the container to the right-hand side of the engine and open the drain

When level.

it’s cooled

the car on the road for a

as possible, then check for leaks.

down

you

can

recheck

the coolant

57

Radiator drain tap

The cooling system bleed valve. A flexible pipe can be attached to the stub arrowed

Slackening the distributor fixed contact securing screw

A screw inside each distributor cap contact secures the HT leads

Sk

TOCOIL

DISTRIBUTOR

a

INTERNAL

INTERNAL RESISTOR

RESISTOR

==

SCREW IN FOR HT LEAD

TW!IN SCREW-IN

Ignition HT lead suppressors Left: Resistive suppressor-type plug caps. Right: Resistive in-line suppressors

It's

difficult

to

give

specific

information

regard to fitting, as final positioning

player,

speakers

personal

and

preference.

aerial

is entirely

However,

the

with

of the radio/tape

a matter

following

of

para-

graphs give guidelines to follow, which are relevant to all installations.

fit it, is a matter of personal preference.

In general, the

taller the aerial, the better the reception but there are limits to what's practicable. If you can, fit a fully retractable

type

- it saves

with vandals and car-wash

an

awful

lot of problems

equipment.

When

a suitable spot for the aerial, remember

choosing

the following

points:

Radios Most radios are a standardised size of 7 inches by 2 inches deep - this ensures that they'll fit into the radio aperture provided in many cars. The

a) The aerial lead should be as short as possible b) The aerial should be mounted as far away from

following

c)

wide,

points

should

be

borne

in

mind

the distributor and HT leads as possible. The part of the aerial which protrudes beneath the mounting point must not foul the roadwheels, or anything else. d) If possible the aerial should be positioned so that the coaxial lead does not have to be routed through the engine compartment.

before

deciding exactly where to fit the unit.

a) The

unit

must

be

within

easy

reach of the

driver wearing a seat belt. b) The unit must not be mounted electric

tachometer,

close

to an

e)

the ignition switch and its

The aerial should be mounted at a more-or-less

wiring, or the flasher unit and associated wiring.

vertical angle.

c) The unit must be mounted within reach of the

d)

aerial lead, and in such a piace that the aerial lead will not have to be routed near the components detailed in paragraph ‘b’.

Tape players

The

stereo

where pants

e)

unit

should

it might in an

not be positioned cause

accident;

injury

in a place

to the car occu-

for instance,

under

the

Fitting instructions for both cartridge and cassette same

are

players

are

the same

not

usually

prone

to

and

in genera!

the

fitting a radio. Tape players

electrical

interference

like

dashpanel above the driver’s or passenger’s legs.

radios - although it can occur - so positioning is not so

The unit must be fitted really securely.

critical. an

The type of aerial used, and where you're going to

72

tape

rules apply as when

If possible

‘even-keel’.

Also,

the player should it must

be mounted

be possible

wearing a seat belt to reach change, or turn over, tapes.

the unit

on

for a driver

in order

to

THE PERSONAL TOUCH

Radio interference suppression Books

not

have

going

been

written

on the subject, so we're

to be able to tell you a lot in this small

space. To reduce the possibility of your radio picking

up unwanted interference, an in-line choke should be fitted in the feed wire and the set itself must be earthed really securely. The next step is to start connecting capacitors to reduce the amount of interference being generated by the different circuits of the car’s electrics. The accompanying illustrations show the various interference generators and give capacitor values for the suppressors. When it comes to the

drill, you'll have to drill one or more smaller holes and file out to the correct size. Don’t forget to remove any burrs

from

the

hole

afterwards,

then

apply a

little

primer to cover the bare metal edges. When primer’s dry you can fit the mirror following makers’

the the

instructions, then swivel it to get the best rear

view. For mirrors which only need self-tapping screws, make sure the drill used for the holes isn’t too big.

Ideally it should be fractionally larger than the thread root diameter - it’s better to make sure that the hole’s on

the

small

side and enlarge

it if necessary,

rather

ignition HT leads, these are resistors which can either

than start off with a hole that’s too big for the screws

be suppressor-type plug caps or in-line suppressors; if you're already using resistive HT leads (those with the carbon fibre filling), they're already doing the job for

to bite properly.

you.

Visibility aids Wing and door mirros Recent EEC legislation has done wonders for the looks of exterior mirrors. In addition to being functional, they now must have no projections to catch clothing or other cars, and must fold flat when struck. The result is a new wave of products in all shapes and sizes, some of which can be sprayed to match up with the existing car finish. There’s also been a marked swing recently from wing mirrors to the door-mounted kind. Choose styling

mirrors which you think will suit the car’s

and,

having

point carefully.

got

You'll

them,

select

get a good

the

idea

mounting

of where the

best place is by simply looking at other cars, but get to hold the mirror while you sit in the driving seat just to make sure you can see all you need to, and make sure too that the quarter-light will still open. Wing mirrors pose a bit of a problem: on Imp models, as the bonnet (or boot lid, whichever way you

MAG

‘European’ door mirror

someone

like to look at it) extends right to the edges of the car. Mirrors

can

be

fitted

to

this,

but

it’s important

to

make sure that the bits which project underneath will clear the top edge of the wing panel - set the mirrors in where the lid contour just flattens out, and you should be OK - but if you're in the habit of loading the boot pretty full they may prove a nuisance by catching on

suitcases or whatever. When

fitting

this

type

of

mirror,

you'll

need

to

mark the hole position, then do likewise for the other side. Some door mirrors have a bolt type of fixing, which will mean removing the trim panel; others are simply attached holes, check

by self-tapping screws.

the size needed

drill this size, plus, where

make

a pilot hole.

and, if you

For the larger can, select a

applicable, a smaller one to

If you haven't got a large enough

ak

Wing’ mirror fitted to an Imp

73

THE PERSONAL TOUCH

Rear window demisters At one time, if your car wasn’t fitted with a heated rear

window

expensive stick-on

glazing.

as

equipment

(and

only

the

was a

clear panel designed to act a bit like double They didn't usually work very well and fre-

quently came

less

standard

models were) about the only remedy

unstuck

superseded

demister.

These

too. Now they've been more or

by

the

act

more

element

like

type

the

of

genuine

stick-on

sound-deadening material into their cars, and a further improvement can usually be made by fitting one of

the proprietary kits. These are usually tailored to fit individual models, and consist of sections of felt-like material which are glued in place under carpets, inside hollow sections, boot lid etc., in accordance with instructions. The material can also be bought in roils for D-I-Y cutting, using the carpets etc., as templates.

article,

consisting of a metal foil element which is peeled off a

Seats

backing sheet and stuck on to the inside surface of the rear window glass. It has to be wired up to the electric-

covers

al system,

switch,

them), then you can of course have them rebuilt by an

cable and preferably incorpor-

upholstery specialist. On the other hand, if you agree that the seats in the Imp models aren't the most

of course,

via a suitable

using sufficiently heavy ating a warning lamp current and shouldn't great thing about these

fuse and

as it will take quite a large be left on inadvertently. The devices is that they do work,

If your seats are showing signs of old age, (and new won't

disguise

comfortable

ever

dirt from the car's slipstream. now

D-I-Y kit with a special adaptor plate is

available, but fitting may be beyond the scope of

the ordinary owner because the motor assembly has to

be fitted inside the small luggage area behind the rear seats on the cars, or inside the tailgate door on the Van/Husky models. The wiring and washer tubing can be routed as for the reversing light wiring previously described. Full instructions are supplied with the kit, but if you’re not happy with doing the job yourself it’s better to let your local garage man

do it for you.

on

problem's consider

the

seeing uprating

subject

of

in the your

think

sit in

about

shop stocking the more motor sport

Miscellaneous Electronic ignition Such widely

systems

better

dark

then

headlamps.

visibility

you

if your

might

A number

well

of con-

versions are available for the standard single or twin headlamp units fitted to the Imp models, and mostly they're fitted by simply interchanging with the old ones, nO wiring modifications being needed (see /n An

Emergency for headlight removal).

are many.and

advertised.

The

makers

varied and most are claim

easier starting,

better performance and lower fuel consumption as the main

advantages,

substantiated

your

expenditure from

and

on

the whole

in practice.

of the available

whether

kits we

mileage

However, suggest

someone

these

claims

are

before buying one

you

stop

and type of driving

worthwhile.

car. Consider

Headlamp conversions Still

could

you

orientated kind of goods.

A malady which all the Imp models suffer from is a rear window that regularly becomes obscured by road A universal

you

when

available. To look at these you'll need to

find an accessory

Rear window wipe/wash

made,

sagging,

replacing at least the driver's seat by one of the special bucket-types

and are very moderately priced.

the

and reflect

make

the

Get other advice, preferably

who's fitted such a system

to his own

too, whether you're capable of installing

it yourself, otherwise well.

you'll have to pay for fitting as

There are several types of electronic ignition - some retain the conventional contact-breaker in the car's distributor

while

others

replace

this

by

a magnetic

triggering device. Even where the contact points are retained they're no longer likely to burn and therefore shouldn't need renewing very frequently - but this doesn’t in itself amount to much of a saving.

Roof racks

Comfort

With

Sound reducing kits Longer journeys can be more pleasant if your car's

comfortable this theme

74

to drive, and a couple of suggestions on may be welcome.

Very few cars have yet been produced in which the noise level, particularly at motorway speeds, is all that could be desired. For economy reasons, most manufacturers put only a certain amount of underfelt and

the small

luggage

boot

that the Imp models

have, it's not surprising that many an owner has to resort to a luggage rack from time to time, even if it's only for family

holidays. The types available are very

varied, but they normally rely on clips attached to the

water drain channel above the doors. If you're buying, select a size that suits your requirements, (making sure that it’s not too wide for the roof!) and don’t overload it. The maximum load you should carry is 100 Ib (45

kg).

THE PERSONAL TOUCH When

fitting the roof rack, position it squarely on

rear. After it’s loaded, by the way, recheck the tension

the popular types are made from LM25 aluminium alloy; prices vary, but on average they’ll cost you a little more than the tyre that goes with them. For

of the attachment bracket screws. Don’t keep the roof

those of you

rack on when it’s not wanted; it offers too much wind

(and there can’t really be any justification for it for normal road use) there are the magnesium alloy types; these’ll set you back about twice as much as the aluminium alloy ones. You can even get steel wirespoked wheels but it’s difficult to visualise an Imp

the roof, preferably towards the front rather than the

resistance and creates a surprising amount of noise (see

Save It!).

Wide wheels With increasing petrol and insurance costs, and decreasing speed limits, many motorists have stopped trying to get the ultimate in performance from a given engine size and drifted towards other things. One of these things, which not only smartens up the car but can also improve roadholding considerably, is a set of wide wheels. You can get steel wide wheels which are less than half the price of a new radial tyre, but most people prefer the looks of the light alloy ones. Practically all

who

really want to spend some

money

kitted out with a set of these. There was a time when all light alloy wheels had a bad reputation, but this seems to have improved con-

siderably with the more modern casting techniques. They can still be porous, which could mean that you'll need a tube with the tyre if you're going to keep the air in, but they're normally sealed during manufacture to help overcome this. The wheels need to be treated with a little more care than steel wheels. To prevent corrosion setting in it’s important to keep them clean,

MAG Universal dog/luggage guard

THE PERSONAL TOUCH particularly lacquer

if there's

them

steel wheel

from

may

salt

time

on

the

to time.

roads, Don’t

only suffer a dented

and

to

re-

hit kerbs, a

rim but you can

bolt

can

readily,

be

damaged.

If you

can’t

you'll just have to borrow

the wheel

off, mark

move

it fairly

an extractor.

With

the hub or boss of the rear wheel

easily knock a piece out of a light alloy rim and that’s

so that it can be put on in the same relative position as

the end of it. When you're having tyres fitted, extra care must be

the

old

one,

then

just

follow

the

manufacturer's

instructions for the rest of the job.

taken to prevent the rim being damaged, and it won't do

any

Any

harm

to

remind

balancing weights

the ordinary sO

models,

kind. The

types

around

you'll

have

Owners of the Van/Husky versions who either own

tyres them-

a dog or carry large loads in the rear of the vehicle will

the widest wheel size that can

resorting

to take

and tyre supplier.

to tin-backing around

some

For the Imp

be used, with-

the wheel

arches,

is a 5J x 12. These will take a 6.0 crossply tyre, a 155 radial, or one of the 7O-series low profile tyres in the

range 155/70 to 195/70. One

last point - flashy wheels are worth something

on the thieves’ market too, so it’s worthwhile

investing

no doubt They're

find one of these tubular barriers beneficial. normally

adjustable telescopically, both for height and width, and are fitted by clamping between

roof and to keep

load dog,

deck

immediately

luggage or whatever

behind the rear seat in its rightful place

and possibly prevent injury to the front seat occupants

in an emergency stop.

Mudflaps

lonely car parks for any length of time

You're probably already aware that both front and rear wheel arches can be fitted with mudflaps. These will not only protect your car’s underside and paint-

Steering wheels

work

in lockable

wheel

nuts if your car’s likely to be left in

One of the more popular, easily fitted accessories is

a special steering wheel. often

it’s also necessary

the steering column is then

when

attached.

fitting

Many

types are available

but

to buy a boss which fits on to

a steering

should

wheel

be encountered

or boss, once

the old

the

spring clips from the motif or hub. Unscrew

central

nut

straight-ahead

during wet weather. Fitting’s straightforward and usually by means of clamping brackets and screws.

is

then,

position,

with mark

the

Specialist fitments We've

now

to interest

To do this, prise off the central motif, then remove

the two

from flying stones, but will also earn the thanks of following drivers owing to the reduction in spray

shaft, to which the steering wheel

No problems

steering wheel has been taken off.

76

Dog/luggage guard

type, not

be suitable for the rims, and because there

many

advice from the wheel Out

be the stick-on

clip-round-the-rim

selves must are

the tyre fitter at the time.

must

front

wheels

the steering

in the

wheel

hub

angle.

Such

roofs,

while

scope

both

owner.

We

covered

the average

most

of the main

owner

things as towbars practical

of

this

therefore

or

book

from and

recommend

items likely

D-!-Y

sunshine

desirable,

and

the

of

are

the

fitting or vinyl

beyond

the

ordinary

that for any

car major

and shaft. Now pull firmly upwards to get the wheel off; if it won’t budge you can carefully tap from behind at the inner ends of the spokes, but be very

accessory of this kind you consult the appropriate specialist who'll be able to give you an initial estimate

careful because the steering rack and the column pinch

and safely.

of the cost, as well as carrying out the work properly

Troubleshooting We've gone to great satisfactory

running

lengths in this book

and

servicing.

(rather than a probability!)

to provide as much

Hopefully,

that something

you

won't

need

information

on your car as we think necessary for

to use this Chapter

but there’s always a possibility

will go wrong, and by reference to the charts that follow you should be

able to pinpoint the trouble even if you can‘t actually fix it yourself. The

charts are broken down

the sort you

normally correct

be found page.

accompanying

into the main systems of the car and, where there’s a fairly straightforward remedy -

can tackle yourself In

elsewhere

some

cases

- bold type

in the book; a reference

is used to highlight it. Further information on that particular item will

look

up the particular component

number

cross-reference table, you'll find more

will

be found

information

(e.g. T1/1);

or system by

looking

in the Index to find the up

this

number

in the

on that particular fault.

IGNITION SWITCH

BATTERY]

OOOOO0OO0O

DISTRIBUTOR

CIRCUIT

Diagram of the ignition system.

The LT

BREAKER

circuit is shown by the heavier lines. Inset shows bulb connection for static ignition timing purposes

TROUBLESHOOTER 1:

Starter motor doesn’t work when key is turned

Starter motor doesn’t work properly

Turns engine very slowly

Battery flat or

Starter pinion

defective

sticking (T1/3)

Internal starter motor fault

Flat battery (T1/1) Battery connections

Starter motor or solenoid switch

loose or corroded Loose connection to

faulty internally

starter (T1/2)

78

Doesn’t turn engine |

ENGINE-STARTING

Starter motor turns engine normally but engine won't start

Works noisily or

Ignition system fault

Fuel system fault

harshly

Valve clearances

:

Pinion or flywheel

Starter drive main

teeth broken or

spring broken

worn

Other causes

Air cleaner blocked incorrect Inlet manifold or gasket, or carburettor gasket leaking Brake servo hose

leaking (if fitted)

(T1/9)

Starter motor

Engine seriously

retaining bolts loose

overheated (71/10)

(T1/8)

Spark plug lead(s)

Fuel pump faulty or

loose, disconnected

filter blocked (T1/6)

or damp (T 1/4)

Leak in fuel pump or

Spark plugs dirty, cracked or incorr-

or fuel lines Carburettor jet

ectly gapped Distributor or coil

blocked (Solex type) (T1/7)

cap cracked, or HT

lead loose Worn distributor cap electrodes Coil or condenser

Carburettor float

chamber fuel level (s) incorrect Carburettor incorrectly adjusted (Solex

faulty (71/5)

type)

Contact breaker points dirty or

correctly

Choke not operating

incorrectly set Ignition timing incorrect

79

TROUBLESHOOTER

Lacks Power

Ignition fault

Fuel system fault

2

Misfires

Other causes

Timing incorrect

Incorrect valve clearances Low cylinder compression

Air cleaner blocked

Overheating

Running too cool

Insufficient water

Incorrect thermostat

in cooling system/

installed

leakage from system

Thermostat

(T2/1)

or not working

Fan belt slipping

properly

Radiator blocked

(T2/2) Water hose collapsed

or kinked (T2/3) Thermostat not operating properly Exhaust system obstructed or

damaged Blown cylinder head gasket or block corroded

Engine not yet runin (72/4)

Brakes binding (overadjusted) Oil level too low Cylinder head distorted

missing

ENGINE-RUNNING

4 Ignition fault

=

Cuts out Unexpectedly

Fuel system fault

components (11/4)

Fuel Fuel system fault fault Tank empty empty. __ Fuel pump faulty or

Coil or condenser

filter blocked (T1/6)

faulty (T1/5) LT lead to coil or distributor disconn-

Fuel line broken, leaking or blocked Carburettor jet

ected (11/4)

blocked (Solex type)

HT ‘ead from coil loose or disconnected (T1/4)

(T1/7)

Ignition fault fault

Water on igni ignition

Spark plug lead(s)

Fuel pump

loose, disconnected

filter blocked (T 1/6)

or damp (T1/4)

Leak in fuel pump or fuel lines Carburettor jet

Spark plugs dirty, cracked or incorrectly gapped Distributor or coil cap cracked, or HT lead loose Worn distributor cap electrodes Coil or condenser

faulty or

blocked (Solex type) (11/7) Carburettor float

chamber fuel level(s) incorrect

Carburettor incorr-

faulty (T1/5)

ectly adjusted (Solex type)

Contact breaker

Choke not operating

points dirty or incorrectly set

correctly

Ignition timing incorrect

TROUBLESHOOTER 3:

Judder/Vibration

Gearchange problems

Difficulty in engaging or changing gear oie

On letting in clutch

When running

Engine/transaxle mountings loose or perished

Clutch friction surfaces badly worn or oily Release mechanism

worn

Steering or suspension

fault

(Troubleshooter 5)

Driveshaft joints worn

Jumping out of gear La ee Gearchange selector mechanism worn or damaged

CLUTCH & TRANSMISSION

Irregular Noises

From clutch

On depressing pedal

From transaxle

On releasing pedal

From driveshafts

Whining or

grinding noise

while running Incorrect grade of oil in use

Gear teeth or shaft bearings badly worn or damaged Release mechanism

Clutch driven plate

dry, worn or

distorted

damaged Pedal pivot requires

lubrication

Cracking noises when changing gear

Synchromesh mechanism worn or damaged Gearchange shaft flexible coupling damaged Air in clutch hydraulic system

Too heavy grade of oil in transaxle

TROUBLESHOOTER

4:

Pedal Operation

Spongy feel

Excessive pedal travel

Fluid level too low Rear brakes need

Air in system

(requires bleeding)

adjusting

‘Springy’ feel or excessive pedal effort New linings not yet bedded in Drums badly scored or distorted Master cylinder bolts loose Shoes contaminated by oil, grease or

fluid Servo faulty or

_ hose loose/damaged

“(T4/1)

Leaks in system

Wheel cylinder or caliper leaking Master cylinder leaking Brake line or hose

leaking

TROUBLESHOOTER 5: Steering wheel has Steering feels light and vague

too much free play

Steering feels stiff and jp

heavy

Tyre pressures too low or uneven Steering swivels need

greasing (T5/1)

Steering balljoints Tyres

Suspension

geometry

badly worn

Pressures too high

wrong

Steering gear needs

Wrong type

Bodyframe distorted

adjusting

Suspension geometry wrong Steering gear incorrectly adjusted Steering column badly distorted

Effect on Car

Car pulls to one side

Brakes ‘grab’ or

Drums/linings

wheel(s) lock

Brakes bind when pedal released

contaminated with

contamination by

Rear brakes/hand-

oil, grease or fluid Brake lockplate loose shoes incorrectly fitted

dirt, oil, grease or fluid

brake over-adjusted Vent hole in reservoir cap blocked Master cylinder or wheel cylinder seized

Differing types of linings fitted at each side Suspension anchorages loose Drums badly worn or distorted

Tyre pressures unequal

STEERING

AND SUSPENSION Car leans excessively

Wobble/vibration

Car settles too low or leans

when cornering or bounces

from front wheels

to one side while stationary

excessively after hitting bumps

Loose wheelnuts Damaged wheel Wheels/tyres need balancing

Steering/suspension baJljoints worn

Weak spring

Shock absorbers faulty

85

TROUBLESHOOTER Note: This chart assumes that the battery installed in your car is in good condition and is of the correct specification, and that the terminal connections are clean and tight. A car used frequently for stop-start motoring or for short journeys (particularly during the winter when lights, heater blower etc are likely to be in use) may need its battery recharged at intervals to keep it serviceable. If an electrical problem occurs, don’t immediately suspect the starter or any other component without first checking that the battery is capable of supplying its demands!

Fuel Gauge

Gives no reading

Horn

_

Registers ‘full’ all

Operates all the

the time

time

Cable between tank unit and gauge

Horn push earthed or stuck down Cable from horn to horn push earthed

broken or disconnected

Doesn’t work

Cable between tank unit and gauge earthed

Cabie or connection corroded, loose, broken or disconnected Fuse blown (where

fitted)

86

6:

ELECTRICS A fault occurring in any other electrical equipment or accessory not specifically referred to above can usually be traced to one of three main causes ie. Blown fuse; loose or broken connection to power supply Or earth; or internal fault in the equipment,

Lights

Don’t come on

OR

Come on but go out again

Work erratically or flicker on and off

Give very poor illumination Bulbs, reflectors or

lenses dirty Wrong bulbs insta-

led

Battery flat

Bulb or filament

Light switch faulty

Lamps not earthing

properly (16/1)

broken Light switch faulty

87

TROUBLESHOOTING

CROSS REFERENCE TABLE

TROUBLE— SHOOTER REFERENCE T1/1

TROUBLE— SHOOTER REFERENCE

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Either

charge

charger,

or

the

use

from another

battery

jumper

battery;

polarities are correct

do permanent

from

leads

to

a_

battery

make sure that the lead particularly

sure

that

the

You

can

use

a spanner

shaft

on

the

end

it you'll

on the starter

bolt

doesn’t

Make then

sure

An

of

on

the

the

square-ended

starter

normally

motor.

be able

to

coil

for

T2/1

free

it

T2/2

item

could

ruin your engine (if

See T1/10. Driving carefully

are tight,

rietary

will probably

the radiator

core

get you

home.

will clean

out

flushing

compound

(20,000-mile

Service).

T2/3

You may be able to repair the hose temporarily, as in T1/9 but it'll almost certainly mean a new one as soon as possible.

T2/4

Drive slowly!

T4/1

Provided there’s no loss of hydraulic fluid, you'll need a little extra pedal effort for

to fit, but

make a note of the connections before removing them, and ensure that the replacement coil is the correct type. Renewal of the condenser is

airline on

the dirt that’s accumulated (5,000-mile Service); if it’s blocked internally use a prop-

and dry with a lint-

is a simple

or you

By

An

that all the connections

wipe the leads clean

ignition

available

hose you can probably bind it up as in T1/9 (above) to get yourself home.

the

free cloth. Use an ignition system waterproofer (e.g. WD40 or Damp Start) to prevent problems in the future.

T1/5

bandage

can

tape or,

it hasn't happened already). If it’s just a leaking

turn

from the flywheel ring gear. T1/4

a hose

hose

adhesive

up. If it happens a second time, get it looked at straight away

battery earth lead.

turning

still, with

a leaking

up with

if your car

while you're tightening the nut. Reconnect

T1/3

repair

be bound

T1/10 Wait till the system’s cooled down, then top it

lead then tighten the connection make

temporary

the purpose.

If the lead’s loose, disconnect the battery earth

motor;

a

better

in both cases, or you may

damage,

For

normally

start the car

has an alternator.

T1/2

T1/9

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

covered in the 20,000-mile Service Schedule.

T1/6

To

check

the

operation

of the pump,

detach

the fuel outlet pipe (that’s the one that goes to the carburettor)

and prime the pump

braking

with the

hasn't got one you'll have to turn the engine on the starter motor). Take care that you don’t spill fuel on a hot exhaust silencer. Cleaning the fuel pump filter is covered in the 5000-mile Service Schedule.

but

that’s

all.

It may

be

possible to

temporarily repair the hose as in T1/9.

small lever (if your pump

T1/7

Remove

model)

T5/1

the jets. Make

there

are

no

grease

nipples,

the swivel

can dry out (which, will be the onset of wear), making

the

steering stiff and

heavy.

You

can

alleviate this, but certainly not cure it, by using

a little engine oil from acan. To cure the problem it’s a major dismantling job. Where there

the jets or jet plugs (according to the

and blow through

Where

sure

are

you don’t spill fuel on a hot exhaust silencer.

grease

nipples,

refer

to

the

5,000-mile

Service.

T1/8

It’s easy enough to tighten the attachment bolts got a box or socket spanner of the right size. If you haven't it’s not really a D-I-Y job. if you've

88

T6/1

Remove the lamp lenses (see /n An Emergency) and check for signs of rust. Where there’s rust, scrape it off and apply a little Vaseline.

A)

\

FANS / Hi tsz

We Zz TY

FEN Mm

EAS

of Imp Hillman view Cutaway |the Mk saloon

89

CONVERSION Distance Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Millimetres (mm) Metres (m) Kilometres (km)

X25.400 X 0.305 X 1.609 X 0.039 X 3.281 X 0.621

Millimetres (mm) Metres (m) Kilometres (km) Inches (in)

X 16.387 PGS fe ys3))| X 29.57 X 0.568 X 1.1365 X 1.201 X 0.9463 X 0.8326 X 4.546 X 1.201 X 3.7853 X 0.8326 X 0.061 X 0.02816 X 0.03381 X 28.16 X 33.81 X 1.760 X 1.0567 X 0.220 X 0.264

Centimetres, cubic (cc/em3) Centimetres, cubic (cc/em3) Centimetres, cubic {cc/em) Litres (L) Litres (L) Quart, US (US qt)

Feet (ft) Miles

Capacity Inches, cubic (cu in/in) Fluid once, imperial (fl oz) Fluid once, US (fl oz) Pints, imperial (Imp pt) Quarts, imperial (Imp qt) Quarts, imperial (Imp qt)

Quarts, US (US gt) Quarts, US (US qt)

Gallons, imperial (Imp gal) Gallons, imperial (Imp gal) Gallons, US Gallons, US Centimetres, Centimetres,

(US gal) (US gal) cubic (cc/em3) cubic (cc/cm*)

Centimetres, cubic (cc/em3) Litres (L) Litres (L) Litres (L) Litres (L) Litres (L) Litres (L)

Litres

Quarts, imperial (Imp qt) Litres (L) Gallons, US (US gal) Litres (L) Gallons, imperial (Imp gal) Inches, cubic (cu in/in?) Fluid ounces, imperial (fl oz) Fluid ounces, US (fl oz) Fluid ounces, imperial (fl oz)

Fluid ounces, US (fl oz) Pints, imperial (imp pt)

nou

Quarts, US (US qt) Gallons, imperial (Imp ga!) Gallons, US (US gal)

Area Inches, square (in2/sq. in)

X 645.160

Millimetres, square (mm2/ sq mm)

Feet square (ft2/sq ft) Millimetres, square (mm2) sq mm) Metres, square (m2/sq m)

X 0.093 X 0.002

Metres, square (m2/sq m)

X 10.764

Feet square (ft2/sq ft)

X 28.350 X 0.454 X 0.035 X 2.205 X 35.274

Grammes (gq) Kilogrammes (kg)

Inches, square (in2/sq m)

Weight Ounces (oz) Pounds (Ibs) Grammes (qg) Kilogrammes (kg) Kilogrammes (kg)

90

Ounces (oz)

Pounds (Ibs) Ounces (oz)

FACTORS Pressure Pounds/sq in (psi/Ib/sq in/

X 0.070

Kilogrammes/sq cm

Pounds/sq in (psi/Ib/sq in/

X 0.068

Atmospheres (atm)

Kilogrammes sq cm (kg/sq cm)

X 14.223

Poundsfsq in (psi/Ib/sq in/

Atmospheres (atm)

X 14.696

Pounds/sq in (psi/sq in/

Pound - Inches (Ibf in)

X 0.0115

Kilogramme - metres

Pound - inches (Ibf in) Pound - feet (Ibf ft) Pound - feet (Ibf ft)

X 0.0833 X12 X 0.138

Pound - feet (/bf ft)

X 1.356 X 86.796 STL PIES X 0.738 X 0.102

Ib/in2)

(kg/sq cm)

Ib/in2)

Ib /in2) Ib/in?)

Torque (kgf m)

Milogramme - metres (kgf m) Kilogramme - metres (kgf m) Newton - metres (Nm) Newton - metres (Nm)

Pound - feet (Ibf ft) Pound, inches (Ibf in) Kilogramme - metres

(kgf m) Newton - meters (Nm) Pound - inches (Ibf in} Pound - feet (/bf ft)

Pound - feet (/bf ft) Kilogramme - metres

(kgf m)

Speed Miles - hour (mph) Feet - second

Kilometres - hour (kph)

Metres - second (m/s) Metres - second (m/s)

1.609 0.305 0.621 3.281 3.600

Kilometres - hour (kph) Metres - second (m/s)

X 0.354 X 2.825

Kilometres - litre (km/)

X X X X X

Miles - hour (mph) Feet - second

Kilometres - hour (kph)

Consumption Miles - gallon, imperial (mpg) Milometres - litres (k m/l)

Miles - gallon, imperial

(mpg)

Temperature Centigrade (°C) to

9

Fahrenheit (°F)

—

(°C + 32, =°F

5 Fahrenheit (°F) to Centigrade (°C)

5 — 9

(OF) — 32) =°C

91

Index A

fluid reservoir level - 37 hoses - 49, 59

Accessory shops - 25, 65 Adjustments:

pipes - 49 servo - 55

brakes - 51 carburettors - 46 door catches - 47

relining - 52

Bulbs:

iS

renewal - 20 types - 29 Buying spare parts - 24

fan belt - 42 handbrake - 55 Air cleaner:

casing - 41

intake pipe - 60 Capacity - engine - 16

renewal - 54

Carburettor(s):

Air horns - 69 Ammeter - 65

adjusting - 46 data - 27

Antifreeze -27, 57 Anti-theft devices - 70

Auxiliary instruments - 65

B Battery: condition indicator - 67 electrolyte level - 36 maintenance - 39 topping up - 36 Bleeding brakes - 59 Bodywork: cleaning - 60 - 61 minor repairs - 62 Bonnet release catch - 10 Brakes: adjustment - 51 - 52 bleeding - 59 cylinder - 51 data - 29 drum - 51

92

faults -84 - 85

faults - 78 - 79 lubricants - 40 maintenance - 41 piston dampers - 41 Carpets, cleaning - 61 Changing a wheel - 17 Clock - 67 Child seats - 69 Choke control - 13 Chromium plating, cleaning - 62 Clutch: faults -82 -83 fluid level - 37 judder - 82 -83 linkage - 46 maintenance - 46 pipes - 49

slave cylinder - 46 slipping - 82 -83 Compression ratio - 26 Comfort - 74

INDEX Condenser renewal - 59

Exhaust:

Contact breaker points:

checking - 46 systems - 22

renewal - 53 cleaning - 42 gap setting - 43

F

Control box - 29

Fan belt:

Cooling system: bieeding - 57 capacity - 27 draining - 57

adjustment - 42

faults - 80 -81 flushing - 57

loss of water - 36 maintenance - 35 Crankcase breather flametrap: cleaning - 45 renewal - 54 Cylinder compression gauge - 33

D Dampers - 41

Daily attention - 35 Demisters - rear window - 74 Dimensions and weights - 30

Direction indicator lights - 20 Dipstick - 35 Distributor:

cap/rotor renewal - 59 maintenance - 42 Dog/luggage guard - 76 Door catch adjustment - 61 Drain holes, cleaning - 47 Driving habits - 24 Dynamo: lubrication - 45 type - 29 Dwell angle meter - 33

renewal - 42 tension - 27 Faults: brakes - 84-85 clutch - 82 -83 electrical system - 86 - 87 engine - 78 -79,80-81 ignition -80-81 suspension - 82 - 83 steering -82 -83 Firing order - 28 Flashing indicators - 20 Flexible coupling - 49 Front hubs - 53 Front suspension data - 29 Front wheel alignment - 49 Fuel additives - 23 Fuel consumption gauge - 23 Fuel pipes - 49 Fuel pump, servicing - 45 Fuel system: data - 27 tank capacity - 16 Fuses - 29

Gearbox - 48, 59 Gear ratios - 28 Gearshift rod:

flexible coupling - 49 nylon bush - 49

E H

Economy devices - 23 Electrical system maintenance

- 37, 60

Handbrake, adjustment - 55

Electronic ignition - 74

Hazard warning - 69

Engine: capacities - 26

Headlamps: conversions - 74

compartment latch (Van/Husky) - 10 coolant level - 35

data - 26 faults - 78 - 79, 80 - 81

idle settings - 46 lack of power - 80 - 81 oil level - 35 oil renewal - 47 oil type - 16 overheating - 80 - 81 tuning - 24

beam settings - 20 removing - 19 renewal - 20 Heater controls - 13 hoses, renewal - 39 History of range - 7 Hubs, front - 59 HT leads, renewal - 59 Hydraulic fluid: renewal - 59 topping-up - 37

93

INDEX

N Ignition warning light - 10 Ignition: faults -78 -79,80-81 timing - 53 Instruments and controls - 10 Instrument panel bulbs - 20 Insurance - 24

J

Number plate light bulb renewal - 20

O Oil changing - 47, 57 Oil leaks - check - 48 Oil pressure:

gauge - 68 warning light - 10 Overheating - 80 - 81

Jacking up - 17 P

ie Lamps:

maintenance - 19, 37 rear fog - 70 reversing - 70 spot and fog - 69 Lubricants - 23

Paintwork - 62 Paper element air cleaner - 41 Performance data - 14 Polishing the car - 60 Power lack of - 80 - 81 Pinstripes - 64

Lubrication:

carburettors - 46 chart - 40 clutch - 46 distributor - 43 door locks - 47 drive shaft joints - 49 dynamo - 45 engine - 35 gearshift rod - 49 swivel joints - 53 transmission - 48

Radios: fitting - 72 interference suppression - 73 Radiator, blocked - 80 - 81 *y Repairs kit - 17 Road test data - 14 Roof racks - 24, 74 Rust: holes and gashes - 63 prevention - 59

M Maintenance:

250 miles/weekly - 35 5000 miles/6 monthly - 39 10,000 miles/12 monthly - 53 20,000 miles/24 monthly - 57 battery - 39, 36 braking system - 37,51, 55

carburettor - 46 cooling system - 42,55, 57 distributor - 42 dynamo - 45 electrical system - 37 engine - 47 lights - 19 spark plugs - 45 steering - 52 suspension - 33 transaxle - 48, 57 Master cylinder reservoirs - 37 Mirrors, exterior - 73

Model variations - 9

94

Mudflaps - 76

Safety - 34

Safety harnesses - 69 Seats - 74 Seat belts - 47 Seat adjusters - 10 Service schedules:

weekly or 250 miles - 35 6 months or 5000 miles - 39 12 months or 10,000 miles - 53 18 months or 15,000 miles - 56 2 years or 20,000 miles - 57

Shock absorbers - 53 Side lights - 20 Silencer - 46 Spares - 17 Spark plugs: maintenance - 45 renewal - 54 setting gap - 27 Specifications - 26 - 30 Starting, difficult - 78 -79 Steam cleaning - 59 Steering - 82-83

INDEX ball joints - 53 checking - 52 column lock - 13 faults -82 -83 lubricating - 52 maintenance - 53 swivels - 52 Steering wheels - 76 Stop/tail lights - bulb renewal - 20 Stroboscopic timing light - 32 Suspension: balljoints - 53 faults - 82 - 83 maintenance - 53 Specialist fitments - 76 Spraying - 63

T

Tyres: buying - 21 - 22 inspection - 37, 49 pressures - 15, 37

Universal joints - 28 Upholstery - 61

V Vacuum gauge - 23, 68 Valve clearances:

adjustment - 56 specified - 26 Vehicle identification numbers - 25

Visibility aids -73

Tachometer - 67

Tape players - 72 Temperature warning light - 10 Thermostat - 80 - 81 Tools - 31 - 33 Towing and being towed - 19 Transaxle: oil drain - 57

oil leaks - 48 oil level - 48 mounting rubbers - 59 Transmission faults - 82 - 83 Troubleshooting - 77

W Washing the car - 61

Warning devices - 69 Water pump

- 55

Water temperature gauge - 68 Wheels: balancing - 51 bearings - 52 special - 75 Windscreen washer reservoir - 37 Windscreen wiper blades - 53 Wipe/wash, rear window - 74

95

Printed

by

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Yeovil Somerset England

Although every care has been taken to ensure the correctness of data used, it must be borne in mind that alterations and design changes can occur within the production run of a model without specific reclassification. No liability can be accepted for damage, loss or injury caused by errors or omissions in the information given.

0

Owner's Handbook/Servicing. Guide @ @

Handy information for day-to-day running Every owner's guide to D-I-Y servicing —

meee

All imp and Imp-based models (except Rallye versions) 1963 to 1976 * Hillman/Chrysler Imp, Imp de Luxe, Super Imp, Californian and Caledonian; Singer Chamois, Sport and FH Coupé; Sunbeam Imp Sport; and Stiletto; Husky and Van.

There are tips on saving money in other ways, too — on replacement parts, for example; and som on fitting worthwhile accessories. Emergencies like puree

areeered, of Course, while in the

85696 381 X

916-2

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