Haynes Hillman Avenger Owner's Handbook/Servicing Guide 0856963828, 9780856963827

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Avenger q WNER’S HANDBOOK

Servicing Guide

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Acknowledgements

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Thanks are due to many people for their help and > ~husiasm during the preparation of this Handbook. Particular mention must be made of Peter Strasman ad Dick Vickery, who allowed access to their Avengers ‘or photography and research, and to F. W. B. Saunders *d of Sherborne and Yeovil, who provided some of the ‘achnical information. Valuable advice on lubrication was given by Castrol Ltd. Brian Horsfall carried out the servicing procedures in our own workshops, and the photographs were taken by Leon Martindale who is a member of the Master Photcgraphers’ Association. Cover picture: Les Brazier

A book in the Haynes Owner’s Handbook/Servicing Guide Series Edited by Robin Wager © Haynes Publishing Group 1978 Published and printed by the Haynes Publishing Group, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ.

ISBN 0 85696 382 8 Although

every

care

has been taken

to ensure

the

correctness of data used, it must be borne in mind that

alterations and design changes can occur within the production run of a model without specific reclassification. No liability can be accepted for damage, loss or injury caused by errors or omissions in the informa-

2

tion given.

a

|

Contents What’s in it For You? About this Handbook

The Avenger

Family

Main production dates and changes

Road Test Data

12

Performance figures from Autocar

Inthe Driving Seat

13

Instruments, controls, layout

Filling Station Facts

21

Garage forecourt guide to tyre pressures etc.

QUICK-CHECK CHART

22

Fill-up data at-a-glance

In an Emergency

23

Get-you-home kit, wheel changing, towing, light bulb renewal

Save It!

32

Cutting motoring costs - safely

Vital Statistics

36

Technical data on all models

Tools forthe Job

43

Getting equipped - what to buy

Service Scene

46

What to do, when, and how

Body Beautiful

81

Cleaning, renovating, repairing bodywork

The Personal Touch

85

Adding accessories

Troubleshooting

95

Charts to help when things go wrong

Conversion Factors

108

‘What's that in pounds per square inch. . .?’

Index

109

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What’s in it for You? Whether you’ve bought this Handbook yourself or had it given to you, the idea was probably the same in either case - to help you get the best out of your Avenger and perhaps to make your motoring a bit less of a drain on your hard-earned cash at the same time. Garage labour charge-out rates can easily be several times your own hourly rate of pay, and usually form the main part of any servicing bill; we'll help you avoid them. Even if you don’twantto do the regular servicing, and prefer to leave it to your Chrysler dealer, there are some things you should check regularly just to make sure that your car’s not a danger to you or to anyone

else on the road; we tell you what they are. If you’re

about to start doing your own

servicing

(whether to cut costs or to be sure that it’s done properly) we think you'll find the procedures described give an easy-to-follow introduction to what can be a very satisfying way of spending a few hours of your spare time. We've included some tips that should save you money when buying replacement parts and even while you’re driving; there’s a chapter on cleaning and renovating your car, and another on fitting accessories. Apart from the things every Avenger owner needs to know to deal with mishaps like a puncture or a broken headlamp, we’ve put together some Troubleshooter Charts to cover the more likely of the problems that can crop up with even the most carefully maintained car sooner or later. There’s a Conversion Chart to help with metrication headaches, and a comprehensive index to help you find your way around the book. If the bug gets you, and you’re keen to tackle some of the more advanced repair jobs on your car, then you'll need our Owner’s Workshop Manual for the Avenger

(No. 037) which gives a step-by-step guide to all the repair and overhaul tasks on these cars, with plenty of photographs to make things even clearer.

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The Avenger Family The Hillman Avenger range was introduced in February 1970 as a four-door 4/5 seater, fastback family saloon. A 1248 cc engine was fitted as standard to all models except the Grand Luxe, which had a 1498 cc engine, although this larger engine was available as an option on the other models. Various minor modifications took place to the Avenger range, and later in 1970 a GT model was launched which sported a twin-carburettor 1498 cc engine. No further changes occurred until 1972, when a low priced Base model came on the scene, followed by estate car versions based on the Super and De-Luxe Saloon models. 1972 also saw the end of the GT which was replaced by the more luxurious and powerful GLS. Early in 1973 four new two-door models were launched, Saloon, de Luxe, Super and GT. The other most important change in 1973 was the fitting of two new uprated engines of 1295 cc and 1598 cc to replace the 1248 cc and 1498 cc units.

Two new two-door GL models were launched in the early part of 1974 fitted with either the new 1295 cc or 1598 cc engine in single carburettor form, while in the latter part of that year a further 1598 cc GL estate car model was added to the range. January 1976 saw the option of automatic transmission made available on all 1598 cc engine models, although automatic transmission had previously been tried out on a special ‘limited edition’ model back in

October 1972. Towards the end of 1976 the name Hill-

Avenger Estate Super (1973)

1974 Avenger GLS

THE AVENGER FAMILY man was dropped and the Avenger models came under the Chrysler badge, now being built at Linwood in Scotland instead of Coventry. The ‘new’ Chrysler Avenger retains the original bodyshell but a great many alterations have been made to the body and interior fittings to give the whole range a new appearance. 1978 Avengers have undergone various technical improvements such as the fitting of electronic ignition

February 1970 October 1970 February 1972

Spring 1972 September 1972 October 1972

March 1973

(claimed to improve starting and fuel economy) and a modified suspension to improve handling and ride. Chrysler’s steps towards rationalising model designations have brought about an LS model (a re-named de Luxe) and a GL model (a re-named Super) while the GLS continues as the top-of-the-range model. Here in a nutshell are the main production changes and dates:

Range introduced as saloon models with two engine sizes available. GT model launched, fitted with twin-carburettor 1498 cc engine, wide wheels and sporty steering wheel. Low priced Base model with economy trim introduced. Estate car version with 1248 cc engine introduced and available in either Super or de Luxe forms. Larger 1498 cc engine available as an option. GT model discontinued and replaced by the GLS model, more luxurious and with more powerful engine. A ‘limited edition’ model introduced based on the Super with 1498 cc engine, automatictransmission, heated rear screen, blue paintwork and white vinyl roof and called appropriately the ‘Top Hat Special’. Four new two-door models launched as Saloon, de Luxe, Super and GT. GT was fitted with the GLS engine. All models now fitted with the new 1295 cc or 1598 cc uprated engines.

1975 Avenger GT

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THE AVENGER FAMILY

1978 Avenger GLS

January 1974

September 1974 October 1974 January 1976 April 1976

September 1976 October 1977

Avenger two-door GL launched and available with either of the new engines in single carburettor form. Several minor specification changes also made. Estate car version of the GL launched, fitted with the 1598 cc engine. Minor detail changes to all models. GT and GLS models fitted with large carburettor, and automatic transmission available as an option on all 1598 cc engine models. Detail changes made to Super and estate car models. Whole range revised but utilising existing bodyshell. Hillman name dropped and replaced by Chrysler. De Luxe renamed LS, Super renamed GL. Improved suspension and electronic ignition added as standard on all models. Revised gearbox and rear axle ratios for 1300 models. Other minor changes to other models. The range is reduced to 11 models.

11

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In the Driving Seat After that potted history of the Avenger range, now let’s take a look at some of the more important things you'll need to know from the driving seat. Fortunately, the manufacturers have laid most things out in a straightforward fashion and most experienced drivers will feel at home with the Avenger from the word ‘go’. However, we’re going to set out some information to enable you to get to know your Avenger alittle better if you’ve recently acquired it or are borrowing it from somebody else.

Instruments, switches and controls

that’s well worth adding if your Avenger hasn't got one

The illustrations show typical instrument panel layouts which have been used for the various Avenger models over the years.

already, and there’s more information on this in The Personal Touch which deals with fitting auxiliary instruments generally. The oil pressure gauge reading will vary according to the engine speed and temperature. If you notice that the oil pressure suddenly drops back when you're cruising along suspect trouble and stop as you’re probably low on engine oil. The oil pressure gauge scores over the oil pressure warning light as it will give advanced warning of oil pressure drop and will also give you a reasonable idea of the condition of the

Ignition warning light The ignition warning light’s grouped together with other warning lights and on the very latest models is identified by a symbol. This light serves the dual purpose of reminding ‘the driver’ that the ignition circuit's switched on (even though the engine may not be running), as well as acting as a ‘no charge’ indicator. The light should be on when the ignition’s switched on, and may also be on when the engine’s idling, but should go out at any speed above idling. If this doesn’t happen, you've got a problem on your hands which needs pretty urgent attention.

Oil pressure warning light or gauge Depending on which Avenger model you happen to have you may have either an oil pressure gauge or a warning light, and some models have both. Warning light: The oil pressure warning light should only be on when the ignition’s switched on and should go out as soon as the engine’s running. If the light doesn’t go out within a second or two of starting-up, the indication is that a considerable degree of wear exists in the engine, the oil pressure warning light switch is faulty, or (less likely) some of the oil-ways are blocked. These faults can be lived with for a while, but expect problems in the future! If the warning light comes on when you're travelling, expect trouble and stop immediately. It could be a faulty warning light switch, but take a look at the engine oil dipstick - maybe you haven't checked the level lately and you’re out of oil.

Oil pressure gauge An oil pressure gauge is a very useful instrument

engine bearings and oil pump.

Water temperature gauge The water temperature gauge indicates the temperature of the engine coolant which is circulated through the cooling system. When starting the engine from cold the water temperature gauge will remain in the ‘Cold’ section and, after a few miles, the needle will gradually move to the centre ‘Normal’ position. If the needle should swing to the red or ‘Hot’ sector, pull into the side of the road and investigate the fault.

Battery charge indicator or Voltmeter (where applicable) Both these instruments are in fact voltmeters and as such will indicate the electrical system voltage under varying operating conditions. If you turn the ignition key to position Il (that’s ignition and accessories ‘ON’) the gauge needle after about 45 seconds will register the static battery voltage and,ifall is well, the needle should

be at a point in the first sector of the gauge. When the engine’s started and running normally the needle should slowly swing to the central sector and remain there, indicating that the battery and charging system are functioning correctly. Problems occur if the needle stays at a high or low reading for any length of time

which

indicates an insufficient or excessive battery

13

Interior of 1977 Avenger GLS.

IN THE DRIVING SEAT

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Instrument panel layout for later Avenger models with two dial instrument panel. 1, Oil pressure warning light2. Side and rear lamp warning light 3. Direction indicator warning light4.Headlamp main beam warning light 5. Ignition warning light 6. Brake warning light 7. Heated rear window switch and warning light 8. Choke control 9. Speedometer 10. Trip mileage reset control 11. Fuel gauge 12.Water temperature gauge 13. Combined ignition/starter/steering lock switch 14. Hazard warning switch and light.

charge rate and you've got acharging fault which needs rectifying immediately.

Switches As the switches on later Avenger models (September 1976 onwards) are very different from the early models we'll divide this section up into ‘early’ and ‘later’ models. ‘Early’ (pre-1976) models

1. Multi-function switch: Projecting from the right-

jj j f an early Avenger (pre phe muld-fupction switch o Y ger (p indicators. Headlamp flasher.

hand side of the steering column is the multi-function switch (see illustration) which controls the following functions: Position i - Direction indicators, upwards for left-hand turn and downwards for right-hand turn. Position ii - Pull lever towards the steering wheel to flash the headlamps. Position iii - Press the end of the lever inwards to operate the horn. Position iv — Provided the master light switch is in the 4 ; s LAS ‘Headlamps’ position and the multi-function switch is in position iv, the headlamps will be operating on main beams. If you pull the multi-function switch control

Horn. Headlamp main beam (dipped in the central position).

lever to the central position you'll change the headlamp beams to the dipped position. When the headlampsare

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IN THE DRIVING SEAT operating on the main beams a blue warning lamp be illuminated on the facia panel. 2. Master light switch and combined panel light brightness control: The master light switch positioned directly below the multi-function switch is of the rotary type (see illustration). This switch

will and is and has

three positions — OFF/sidelights only/sidelights and headlamps. If you take a look at the end of the master light switch you'll find a panel light control switch, and with this you can adjust the brightness of the panel illumination. 3. Windscreen wiper/washer control: This too is a rotary type control switch and is mounted on the lefthand side of the steering column. With the ignition switch on andthecontrol switch ‘A’ turned one position, the wipers will be operating on the ‘slow’ speed; a further turn of the control switch to the next position will operate the wipers on the ‘fast’ speed. The windscreen washers are operated by pressing in the control ‘B’ towards the steering column.

Later (post 1976 models) 1. Combined lighting and horn control lever: This control lever is projecting from the left-hand side of the steering column (see illustration) and lies below the

17s

6

The master light switch and panel light dimmer control of an early Avenger (pre 1976). Off. Side and tail. ._Headlamps. Dimmer control. KVOuUL

15 14

13

Instrument panel layout for later Avenger models with six dial instrument panel. indicator 1. Handbrake ‘ON’ warning light 2. Oil pressure warning light 3. Side and rear lamp warning light 4. Direction light8. Brake warning warning light 5. Headlamp main beam warning light 6. Ignition warning light 7. Low fuelwarning light 12. Choke control light 9. Fuel gauge 10. Battery charge indicator 11. Heated rear window switch and warning 1 Tachometer (Revolution 6. 13. Rear fog lamp switch and warning light 14. Speedometer 15. Trip mileage reset control lock switch 19. Hazard indicator) 17. Front fog lamp switch and warning light 18. Combined ignition/starter/steering gauge. pressure Oil 21. gauge temperature Water 20. light and switch warning

17

Windscreen wiper/washer Avenger. A. off. B. Normal speed. C. Highspeed.

D.

control

of

post

1976

‘flick’ wipe.

Pull control lever towards steering wheel to operate

screen washers.

Windscreen wiper/washer control of an early Avenger (pre 1976). A. Direction in which to turn control knob to operate screen wipers. B. Screenwashers.

C.

Steering column cowling.

IN THE DRIVING SEAT

Combined lighting/horn control and direction indicators of post-1976 Avenger. A. Combined lighting/horn control. (press inwards to operate horn). i ‘O’onlever towards driver lights off. ji B-side and rear lights on. C1-headlamps dipped beam. iii D2-headlamps dipped beam. E2-headlamps main beam. F. direction indicator control lever. G. positions of control F. for turning left (downwards) or right (upwards).

direction indicator lever. The control lever knob’s rotated to turn the lights on and each side of the knob is numbered as follows:

‘O’ on lever facing driver — all lamps off. ‘Von lever facing driver and lever in position ‘B’ - side and rear lamps on. ‘’ on lever facing driver and lever in position ‘C’ headlamp dipped beam on. ‘2’ on lever facing driver and lever in position ‘D' headlamp dipped beam on. ‘2’ lever facing driver and lever in position ‘E’ — headlamp main beam on. Press the end of the control lever inwards to sound the horn.

2. Direction indicators: This is the shorter of the two levers projecting from the left-hand side of the steering column. Push the lever upwards for right-hand indicators and downwards for left-hand indicators. 3. Windscreen washers and wipers: Refer to and note the positions of the control lever: Position A -off. Position B — wipers on normal speed. Position C - wipers on fast speed. Position D — ‘flick’ wipe — high speed wiper action whilst lever is held in this position. The windscreen washers can be operated while the control lever is in positions A, B,C or Dbysimply pulling

the control lever towards the steering wheel.

19

IN THE DRIVING SEAT

The automatic control lever positions (depress safety button arrowed to engage R-3-2 or P. P Park. R_ Reverse. N_ Neutral. D Automatic drive (all gears). 3 Automatic 1-2-3 and 3-2-1 gear changes (manual). 2/1 Automatic 1/2 and 2/1 gear changes (manual).

20

Automatic transmission

will automatically change to 3rd gear. Certain rules

Driving an Avenger fitted with automatic transmission is pretty straightforward and the following tips will help you get the best from your transmission system: The engine can only be started with the control lever in either the P (park) or N (neutral) position. Before starting the engine ensure that the handbrake’s on and once you've started the engine ensure that the footbrake’s on before you select a gear position. If the engine's cold and the choke’s in operation you'll feel a slight thump through the transmission as you engage R, D, 3 or 2. You'll also notice once you release the handbrake or footbrake that the car will tend to ‘creep’ — this is quite normal when the engine’s idling fast. Let’s assume you’re ready to move off; you've selected D and released the handbrake, now you only need to accelerate as normal and you’re off. Gear changing will be automatic and according to road speed and throttle pedal position. All the gears except 1st give engine braking on over-run. If you want to overtake another vehicle and need increased acceleration, you simply floor the throttle pedal:and the transmission will downshift and remain in this lower gear until you release the throttle pedal a little; then the transmission will change up again to the higher gear.

apply when doing this, and 3rd gear should never be

Manual selection of 3rd and 2nd gears can be made when you want additional braking effort from the engine. Let’s assume the transmission is in the D position and you select the 3rd gear position; the transmission

selected at speeds over 65 mph (105 kph) or the transmission will be damaged. Position 2 is intended to be selected from rest, when travelling on rough ground, or descending or ascending steep hills. If you select 2nd gear when the transmission is in D an immediate downchange to 3rd gear will occur and 2nd gear will be engaged at the controlled gear change speed.

Towing cars with automatic transmission If the transmission’s functioning correctly the vehicle can be towed with the selector lever in the N position, but the speed must be limited to a maximum of 30 mph

(48 kph) for a maximum towing distance of 30 miles (48 kilometers). It’s absolutely essential to check the transmission fluid level before towing the car. If you suspect a transmission fault and need to tow the car then it’s necessary to either disconnect the propeller shaft or lift the rear wheels clear of the ground (suspended tow).

The engine of automatic transmission models can only be started by using the vehicle’s starter motor, and can’t be started by towing or pushing. If you find your battery’s ‘flat’ then you can couple some ‘jumper’ leads — negative to negative and positive to positive — from another charged battery.

Filling Station Facts Forgetting about the servicing and maintenance aspects for the time being, let’s take a look at some of the things you'll need to know from the very first day you get your Avenger. Assuming it was obtained as a going concern, you should be fit to drive around for a while to get the ‘feel’ of the car. For those of you who've had the car for some time, or those who may be borrowing it from you, here’s the absolute minimum of information required to get you up the road and back safely. Note that tyre pressures can only be checked accurately when the tyres are cold. Any tyre which has travelled more than a mile or so will have a pressure increase of several pounds per square’ inch (psi)—perhaps more than 5 psi after a long run. As you can well see there’s a certain amount of guesswork attached to checking and adjusting the pressures of hot tyres. Since we know that the tyre pressures won't increase for any other reason than heat, the very least we can do is to ensure that the two front tyres are set to

Engine

oil dipstick...

the same pressure, and the two rear ones also (although front and rear pressures won't necessarily be the same), and we would expect these to bea little above those shown in the table. If one tyre of a pair has a low pressure when hot, bring it up to the pressure of the other one on the same axle; if both are below the recommended cold pressure when hot, the safest thing to do is to bring them up to about 3 psi above the cold pressure setting.

... and close-up of markings

QUICK-CHECK CHART Recommended pressures (psi) when cold

Tyre Pressures All models (5.60 x 13 crossply or 155SR13 radial ply): Load of up to 4 persons _ Maximum load

Front

Rear

24 24

24 30

Fuel octane rating All LC (low compression) engines All HC (high compression) engines

90 octane (2 star) 97 octane (4 star)

Fuel tank capacity Early models (pre 1973) Later models (1973 onwards)

9 Imp. galls (41 litres) 10 Imp. gails (45 litres)

Engine oil type All models

20W-50 multigrade

Quantity of oil required to bring level from MIN to MAX on dipstick (approx.)

2pts (1.14litres)

Tyre pressure check.

Fuel filler cap location.

Min. 90 octane

Min. 94 octane

Min. 97 octane

Min. 100 octane

Fuel octane ratings. Use the correct grade for your car.

In an Emergency There’s been no car yet invented that can guarantee you a safe and reliable journey from Ato B every dayof your life. Be it due to a breakdown or a puncture, the day will come when your trusty transport requires a bit of roadside attention—usually at the most inconvenient time. In this Handbook you'll find a wealth of information which should certainly minimise the possibility of a breakdown but, although we hope it won't be very often, the odd thing’s bound to go wrong from time to time. The Troubleshooter Charts should help to trace the cause of an unexpected problem, but it’s not much good knowing what's wrong if you’ve got nothing to put it right with, or needing to change a wheel in the dark when you haven’ta clue

how the jack works. A few timely moments spent reading through this Chapter now could save your time and temper later on!

Spares and repairs kit The basic ‘tools’ supplied with the car will enable you to change a wheel and that’s about the limit. It’s pretty obvious that an additional tool kit is required and ought to be carried in the car. For more information on this see Tools for the Job. Along with certain tools it’s a good idea to carry afew spare parts and repair items which can befitted without too much bother at the roadside. These can prove invaluable in getting you out of trouble on the odd occasion when they might be needed. The sort of things you should carry are: Spark plug, properly cleaned and gapped

HT lead and plug cap-one that will reach the plug furthest from the distributor Set of light bulbs Tyre valve core and pocket pressure gauge Fuses Distributor rotor, condenser and contact set Fan belt Roll of insulating tape Tin of radiator sealer and a hose repair bandage First aid box and manual

Spare set of keys (but not in the car) Extension light and lead with crocodile clips Windscreen de-icer aerosol (during winter months)

Removing the spare wheel from the carrier (estate models only).

IN AN EMERGENCY Breakdown triangle Clean lint-free cloth This Handbook The list could of course be expanded indefinitely—for example, you might like to have a set of spare cooling system hoses instead of just a hose bandage. It’s up to you to decide what you’re likely to use in a roadside situation.

So far as the fan belt’s concerned, it’s worth mentioning that you can buy any emergency type which doesn’t require any bolts to be loosened to fit it and which will

suit a wide variety of cars. With one of these in the car, you can get on your way quickly and fit a proper replacement belt at your leisure.

Jacking up and changing a wheel The jack supplied with the car is suitable for changing a wheel at the roadside and that’s about all. Ifthe car’s to be jacked up for servicing or other work, you'll need a stronger and more reliable means of supporting it; for further information on this, see Tools for the Job. All models are equipped with a screw scissor-type jack which engages with cut-outs in the underside of the body sill (refer to the illustrations for details). The jack, jack handle, wheelbrace and hub cap removing tool are located under the bonnet on the lefthand side on estate car and some saloon models, and in the boot on other saloon models. The spare wheel on estate car modelsis located in a carrier below the floor ar the rear of the vehicle. To remove the wheel lift the tailgate and, using the wheel brace, unscrew the bolt head until the carrier hook is visible. Take the weight of the spare wheel and release the carrier from the hook. The wheel and carrier can now be lowered and the wheel removed. On saloon models the spare wheel’s located in the boot and lies in a specially recessed well retained by a clamp. To begin the wheel changing operation, first apply the handbrake firmly and engage first or reverse gear (manual transmission) or P (automatic transmission); then find something to chock the wheels on the other side of the car. An old brick or block of wood is just the job, but unless you carry such a thing you may have to improvise. If you can only find one, weigh up which way the car's likely to move if anything goes wrong; hopefully you'll find two, then one can be put each side of a wheel. Before lifting, but with the jack correctly positioned, remove the hub cap with the tool provided. If you haven't got the angled tool you can use a large screwdriver to lever off the hub cap. Now use the wheel nut spanner to loosen each nut by about half a turn. Hopefully, the nuts won't be too tight but if they are you can apply a bit of foot power on the spanner to loosen them. The car can now be jacked up, but make sure it doesn’t move, and check that the chocks are still in position. Take off the wheel nuts and then the wheel. Fit the spare wheel to the car, tighten the wheel nuts up evenly in a

cross-wise order and then lower the car to the ground. Fully tighten the nuts now; you don’t have to stand on the spanner to do this, but make sure they’re good and tight (if you’re interested, the correct tightening torque’s 55 Ibf ft). Finally fit the hub cap or trim plate by holding it in position and hitting it smartly with the ball of your hand. If you're following the correct service procedures, the spare will be inflated to the pressure setting for a fully loaded rear tyre, so you may have to let it down to the correct pressure to suit the position and loaded state of the car. To release the air pressure, press in the pin in the centre

of the valve under the screwed

whilst checking pressure gauge. pressure, make future and drive

dust cap,

the tyre pressure at intervals with your If the tyre isn’t up to the recommended a mental note to keep it checked in carefully to the nearest air-line.

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Levering off the wheel trim plate.

IN AN EMERGENCY

Towing and being towed Eyes are formed into the bumper car brackets and are initially intended as points at which the body can be lashed down during transportation but these points can be used for emergency towing purposes. Before towing automatic transmission models it’s essential to refer to the appropriate section of /n the driving seat.

Maintenance of lights Remember that a faulty exterior light can not only be dangerous but is also illegal. Carrying a supply of spare bulbs will enable you to replace blown ones as they occur. A failed interior lamp or panel light bulb may be just a nuisance but most of them aren’t particularly difficult to change. Some Avenger models have the sealed beam type of headlamp unit fitted which in effect is a combined bulb and sealed reflector unit, and if failure of either dipped Or main beam occurs the whole unit must be replaced as detailed below.

Headlamp sealed beam or bulb renewal-early Avenger models with round headlamps Remove the front grille panel which is retained by several self-tapping screws. Slacken the three chrome ring retaining screws, rotate the retainer ring anticlockwise and withdraw it. Pull the headlamp unit forward and disconnect the wiring plug connector from the rear of the headlamp unit. If the headiamp unit’s of the sealed beam type simply fit the new unit and refit the components in the reverse order to the dismantling procedure. Where the headlamp unit has a bulb fitted, unhook the ends of the bulb retainer spring from the retention lugs and lift out the faulty bulb. Refitting the components is the reverse of the removal operation.

Front grille panel retaining screw positions Avenger models with round headlamps).

(early Headlamp locating/adjusting stud.

25

IN AN EMERGENCY

Headlamp sealed beam or bulb renewal-early Avenger models with rectangular headlamps Remove the front grille panel and cross-headed screws which secure the headlamp unit in position. Lift the unit out and disconnect the wiring plug at the rear. If the headlamp unit is of the sealed beam type, the new unit can be fitted and the components reassembled in the reverse order to dismantling. Where the headlamp unit has a bulb fitted unhook the ends of the bulb retainer and lift out the faulty bulb. Refitting the components is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Headlamp bulb renewal-later Avenger models

(post-1976) Lift the bonnet and disconnect the wiring plug con-

nector at the rear of the headlamp unit. Remove the two

Upper headlamp adjuster.

ls Headlamp bulb removal.

cross-headed screws which retain the amber flasher unit lens. Using the angled hub cap removing tool, insert the angled end into the slot adjacent to the grille and top of the headlamp unit. Slide the tool along the slot until the flat of the tool engages behind the upper adjuster ball and socket bracket. Now support the front of the lens and lever the top of the headlamp unit outwards. Repeat this operation for the two lower ball and socket attachments starting with the outer joint first. Lift the headlamp unit outwards and disconnect the green wiring connector. Withdraw the bulb socket connector, pull off the rubber water seal, and unhook the ends of the bulb retainer. The bulb can now be lifted out, but extreme care should be taken when handling the quartz-halogen type of bulb which should never be touched with your fingers. If you touch the bulb, wipe it off with a cloth dipped in methylated spirits immediately. Refitting the dismantled components is the reverse of the removal operation.

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\ Removing the headlamp unit using the angled hub cap removing tool (later Avenger models).

IN AN EMERGENCY

Front grille panel retaining screw positions (early Avenger models with rectangular headlamps).

Removing a sidelamp bulbholder from the headlamp unit.

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Access to rear light bulbs on earlier saloons.

Rear lamp cluster removal (later models).

Sidelight bulb renewal (all models)

lens. The bulb’s of the push-twist bayonet type. Refitting is the reverse of the dismantling procedure.

The sidelight bulb’s located at the rear of the headlamp unit (outer lamps on twin headlamp cars). Remove the headlamp unit as described in the sections above. The sidelight bulb’s is a straightforward push-twist to remove. Refitting is the reverse of the dismantling procedure.

Rear stop/tail, flasher or reversing lamp bulbs renewal (early models) To renew

any of the bulbs mentioned

above it’s

necessary to remove the protective hardboard covers and plastic retainers from inside the rear of the car and

pull out the bulb holder. The bulbs used in this lamp

Front flasher bulb renewal (all models) Unscrew the front flasher lens screws and lift off the

cluster are of the push-twist type. Refitting’s the reverse of the dismantling procedure.

27

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Back of fear, pee housing showing bulbholder plate detached.

Rear lamp cluster attachment studs seen from inside boot.

Component parts of the front fog lamp (later Avenger models).

IN AN EMERGENCY

Removing the facia panel (early model with rectangular instrument panel). 1. Speaker grille 2. Cigarette lighter 3. Leather washer 4. Binnacle 5. Facia—crash roll.

Rear stop, tail, flasher or reversing lamp bulb

renewal (later Saloon models) Open the boot lid and remove the two nuts and washers from the light cluster. Support the packing piece between the outer end of the light unit and body as you withdraw the lamp assembly to release the fixing studs and spring retaining clip. Disconnect the wiring plug connection and lift the lamp assembly away from the car. Remove the cross-head screws securing the bulb holder assembly to the lens assembly and remove the defective bulb. Refitting the assembly is the reverse of the removal procedure but make sure that the water seal’s correctly repositioned and none of the wires are trapped.

Interior lamp bulb renewal (all models) Remove the cross-headed screw and lift away the lens. Remove the bulb. Refit the lens and screw.

i X Number plate lamp cover removed from wire clip.

Number plate lamp bulb renewal (all models) Prise off the spring clip from the glass lens. Lift out the lens and remove the bulb. Refit the components in the reverse order.

29

IN AN EMERGENCY

Luggage compartment light bulb renewal (later models) Pull the bulb downwards from its plastic holder. Remove the bulb, ensuring the holder doesn’t come adrift from its slot.

Front fog lamp bulb renewal (later models) First of all disconnect the battery earth lead. Remove the screws retaining the lamp and shroud. Now remove the lamp from its pivot mounting and carefully prise off the lens assembly. Disconnect the feed wire and release the bulb retaining clip. Withdraw the bulb. Halogen bulbs should be handled carefully and to

avoid finger contact with the glass part of the bulb it’s best to hold the bulb by its base plate. Reassemble the components in the reverse order to dismantling but make sure that the lens drain hole is at the bottom and the adjuster screw’s loosely positioned. Refit the unit assembly to the car and adjust the beam setting of the lamp.

Panel and warning light bulb renewal Note: In all cases while you’re working behind the instrument panel, detach the battery earth lead for safety’s sake. Early models: Lower the steering column cowl by

removing the securing screws. Where a radio’s fitted, remove the control knobs, spindle nuts and escutcheon. Remove the attachment screws located along the underside and ends of the fascia (crash roll). Remove the two speaker attachment screws and detach the grille from the two attachment clips. Now remove the two attachment screws located through the brackets adjacent to the speaker aperture (on cars with circular instruments, locating pegs instead of these two screws are used). Pull the facia back, unscrew the oil pressure pipe

etc. and carefully pull out the required warning light bulb holder. Remove the bulb from the holder. Reassemble the components in the reverse order. Later Avenger models: Remove the six screws securing the lower half of the steering column cowl in position and lower the cowl. Now remove the two nuts securing the outer legs of the upper steering column support

bracket, followed

by two

nuts securing the

lower steering column. Lower the steering column down and rest the wheel on the driver’s seat. Pull out each of the switches positioned below the instrument panel (note the wiring colours before disconnecting them) and the bulb holders. There are seven screws in all retaining the instrument panel to the crash roll—four underneath and two at the top, which must now be removed. Pull the instrument panel far enough forward

Location of the instrument panel retaining screws (later Avenger models).

IN AN EMERGENCY

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The fusebox on the engine compartment bulkhead.

so that you can remove the bulb holder from the rear of _ the panel. Remove the bulb from the holder. Refit the _ components in the reverse order to dismantling.

Fuses—renewal (all models) The fuses are located in a plastic holder mounted on the engine bulkhead. A separate in-line type fuse for the _ heated rear window, where fitted, is located behind the

instrument panel adjacent to the steering column (early models only). If a fuse ‘blows’ replace it with one of the same rating and if this replacement likewise ‘blows’ you must inspect the circuits and units which the fuse protects for faults (see Vital Statistics for details). Never replace a fuse with one of a higher rating as you're defeating the object of having a fuse and will probably end up witha serious fault.

31

Save It! Do-it-yourself car servicing is all about money saving, whilst not forgetting the ever-important point of maintaining the highest standards of safety. In this Chapter we cover several points which should help reduce your motoring costs— or at least prevent them from increasing quite as fast as they otherwise might these days — without reducing your car’s safety.

Tyres Without any doubt whatever, a radial tyre will give you much better value for money than a crossply because, although it will cost a bit more to buy, itwill last a great deal longer. Remould tyres can give good service, but they have their limitations when used for family motoring; remould radials now have a more reliable reputation than they had when they first appeared on the market, but sometimes give a bit of trouble when trying to balance them. So, what have we learnt so far? Only that in the broadest terms the more you pay for your tyres, the better value for money you'll get. If you want the best in roadholding and tyre life, buy radials; if you want good tyre life, but aren’t quite so worried about the roadholding under adverse conditions, buy crossplies; if you want a good runabout tyre, and aren’t thinking of high speeds or long journeys, buy radial remoulds but remember they may give a bit of steering wheel ‘shimmy’ if used on the front; if you want the cheapest tyre which still complies with the law in safety standards, buy remould crossplies. Regraded tyres are sometimes available (they used to

32

be known as remould quality or RQ); these are tyres which may have the very slightest of defects in the tread pattern or mouiding, but are otherwise perfect. If you get the chance to buy them, buy them-to allintents and purposes they’re as good as a new tyre. It’s not generally realised that the major tyre manufacturers also produce tyres under a less well known name at a somewhat cheaper price. These are first class buys too-ask any tyre dealer. Talking of tyre dealers, it’s worth mentioning that they’re the people to go to if you’re intent on saving money (and who isn’t these days?). Unless there’s a ‘special offer’ going, the most expensive place to get new tyres will normally be your local garage. Now let’s just briefly consider how to make your tyres last. First, keep them inflated properly (see Filling Sta-

tion Facts for the correct pressures). Second, drive inthe way that’s least likely to wear them out (i.e. no race-track

starts or cornering); third, make sure your shock absorbers are working properly; and fourth, make sure the wheels are balanced properly.

Batteries Next to tyres, batteries are the most commonly found parts sold by specialists. A top quality battery may cost

up to three times the price of the cheapest one that'll fit your Car. Once again, price is related to the quality of the product, but isn’t necessarily directly proportioned. A

battery with a twelve month guarantee oughtto last that long and alittle bit more, but batteries always seem to fail at embarrassing or inconvenient times so it’s worthwhile getting something a little bit better. Many of the accessory shops and tyre dealers sell good quality batteries with two or three year guarantees. Buy one of these-it’ll be worthwhile in the long run and still cost quite a bit less than the dearest ones around. And if you look after it, it'll look after you, too.

Exhaust systems The average car gets through several exhaust systems in the course of its life, the actual number depending on the sort of journeys for which the car’s used (lots of short journeys will mean condensation remaining inside the exhaust system and helping it to rust out

more quickly). The best place to go when your car needs a replacement exhaust (or maybe just part of the system) is one of the specialist ‘exhaust centres’ which have sprung up in recent years. They keep huge stocks to fit most mass-produced cars, and offer free fitting as well as discount prices on the parts themselves. You'll almost certainly show a worthwhile saving compared with getting your Chrysler dealer to fit the exhaust (which will involve labour charges as well).

SAVE IT! If you’re planning to keep your car for several years it would certainly be worth thinking about an exhaust system made from stainless steel. It'll normally cost you considerably more than an ordinary mild steel replacement, but on the other hand should last the remainder of the car’s life. If you're interested, talk it over with one of the exhaust specialists—they’re usually stockists of the stainless steel kind too.

Lubricants and the like Good cheap engine oils are available, but because it’s so difficult to find out which cheap ones are good, it’s safest to stay clear of them. There are plenty of good multigrade engine oils on the market and quite a few are available at sensible prices from the D-I-Y motoring and accessory shops. Unless circumstances should force you to, don’t buy

oil in pint or half-litre cans. This is the most expensive way of buying, particularly if it’s from afilling station. The big 5-litre (they used to be one gallon) cans are adequate for most

purposes

and contain more

than

enough for an oil change, If your pride and joy’s a bit of an oil burner, you may need an extra can for topping up between oil changes. Oil is also available in larger drums (which can be fitted with a tap) sometimes at an even bigger price saving. A telephone call or visit to nearby wholesalers may well prove worthwhile. Antifreeze is always cheaper if you goto the motoring shops, but bulk buying doesn’t normally apply because you never need to buy it in any real quantity. As for greases, brake fluid, etc., you'll save a little at the motoring shops but again you'll never need large quantities—just make sure that you buy something that’s good quality.

Fuel Your car’s designed to run on a particular grade of fuel (star rating). Don’t buy fuel that’s of a higher rating than this, because you’re wasting your money. On the other hand, if you buy a lower rating fuel your engine performance (and probably your engine too) will suffer. If you are forced to buy inferior fuel, drive carefully until you can get the correct grade; in these circumstances it’s also beneficial to retard the ignition by a couple of degrees, but you've got the bother of resetting it again later.

Additives Oil and fuel additives have been with us for a long time and no doubt will be around for many years to come. It’s pretty unlikely that there are any bad additives around, but there’s not a great deal of evidence to suggest that there are many good ones. The major oil manufacturers will tell you that their oils are adequate on their own, in which case you'll only need additives if

the oil you’re using isn’t much good. A fuel additive of the upper cylinder lubricant type is generally accepted as a good thing, one of its main functions being to prevent carbon building up around the piston rings and ring grooves, which means that the piston rings can seal more effectively.

Economy devices If we could believe everything published about economy devices, we'd be able to fit the lot and end up with a car that would save more fuel than it used! Obviously this isn’t going to happen, and the evidence produced by the motoring magazines doesn’t lend much weight to the various manufacturers’ arguments. If you're considering fitting any of these items (which range from manifold modifiers to spark boosters and fuel pressure regulators), try to get hold of some independent reports before parting with your money.

Vacuum gauge Also known as a performance gauge or fuel consumption gauge, this can loosely be termed an economy device because its purpose is to tell you how to use performance in the most efficient way. An engine that’s running efficiently will be using all the fuel/air mixture in the inlet manifold for any given throttle opening, and in doing so it causes a fairly high suction past the throttie butterfly. The maximum suction it can produce varies, but could be over 20 inches of mercury (that’s around 10 psi) relative to atmospheric pressure. If

you've got one of these gauges, (and there’s some information about fitting one in The Personal Touch) try to drive with the maximum vacuum reading all the time and you'll certainly save some money on fuel.

Engine tuning This term is much misused; it simply means getting the best performance and economy (or sometimes one at the expense of the other) from the standard engine. You'll have a job to improve on the specifications and settings laid down by the car manufacturers, so these must be your obvious guidelines. You may be able to

get different needles for the carburettors, but the power output may be affected. Regular maintenance is the most important factor in keeping the engine in a good state of tune (e.g. spark plugs, distributor points, ignition timing, carburettor adjustments, air cleaner, valve clearances), but take

care that things like over-adjusted brakes don’t mar this. If you can look after all these things, the rest’s up to you as the driver.

Driving habits With the car in a decent state of tune, there’s a lot that you, yourself, can do to improve the car’s economy simply by your method of driving. It’s very tempting at

33

SAVE IT! times to do a ‘grand prix’ start from the traffic lights, or to change down and floor the accelerator just to show yourself that you can do it (nobody else cares anyway!). The art of economical driving is to use the pedals sensibly. There’s no need to race the engine and let the clutch slip violently when starting off; a moderate engine speed, and careful engagement of the clutch, will produce the same result with much greater economy, and onlya little more slowly. Once moving, try keeping the throttle pedal in the same position while the car accelerates—you may need to ease it down justa little more, but don’t press it too hard—-there’s just no need for it. The little time saved in accelerating will be outweighed by the additional time and cost involved the next time you fill up with petrol. Changing through the gears should be done in just the same way, using the accelerator pedal with care. When you have to change down, there’s no need to rev your engine-this is another fuel waster. Similarly, ‘blipping’ the throttle pedal while impatiently waiting for the lights to turn green is using unnecessary fuel. Even in warm weather you'll need to use the choke to start a cold engine. The secret, though, is to push down the lever as soon as possible; experiment to see how soon it can be done-you may surprise yourself. Excessive use of the choke not only affects fuel economy, but results in unburnt mixture getting into the oil and excessive engine wear. Considerably more engine wear occurs in a few hundred miles of stop/start motoring from cold, than in many times this mileage of driving with a thoroughly warmed-up engine on long journeys. a5

empty roof rack still attached? Many estimates have been made of the increase in fuel consumption caused by a roof rack due to wind resistance, and the generally accepted figure is around 10%; with a loaded rack, this figure can be as high as 30%. The moral, then, is obvious-—don’t use a roof rack unless you have to’, and always remove it when it’s not in use.

Insurance | Like some of the other things that we've discussed, the service you’re going to get from your insurance company will be related to the cost of the cover obtained. A cheap policy’s good until you need to make a claim, and then the sort of snags you’re going to come

across are ‘How do| get hold of an assessor to inspect the damage?’ or ‘How will it affect my No Claims Bonus?’ There are one or two legitimate ways of reducing the policy premium, perhaps by insuring for ‘owner driver only’, or ‘two named drivers’, or an agreement to pay the first £20 or so of any claim. Many large companies have a discount scheme for their employees if they use the same insurance company; this also applies to bank and Civil Service employees. You may also get a better bargain by insuring through one of the Motoring Associations if you’re a member. What it all adds up to is: (1) Insure well; (2) See what you can get in the way of discounts; and (3) Find out exactly what you’re covered for.

Buying Spare Parts Roof racks The ever-faithful roof rack has proved a boon to so

many motorists for the extra holiday luggage, but how often do you see cars being driven around with an

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