Haynes Hillman Avenger Owners Workshop Manual 0900550376, 9780900550379

Citation preview

De Luxe 0 Super 0 GLO GLS 0 GT 0 Saloon o Estate

1250 co 1300 0 1500 o 1600 o ’70 to’73

Owner’s Workshop Manual by J. H. Haynes

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2021 with funding from

Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.org/details/hillmanavengerowOO0Ohayn

Hillman

Avenger Owners

Workshop Mianual by J H Haynes Associate Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and P G Strasman MISTC

Models covered

Avenger 1250 2 and 4 door Saloons. Estate Avenger Avenger Avenger Deluxe,

1300 1500 1600 Super,

2 and 4 2 and 4 2 and 4 GL and

door door door GLS

Saloons, Estate, GT Saloons, Estate, GT Saloons, Estate, GT versions.*

Also covers: Plymouth Cricket 91.4 cu in. (USA only) * Does not cover Avenger Tiger

ISBN ©

0 900550

37 6

JH Haynes and Company Limited 1974

All rights any form recording in writing

reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission from the copyright holder.

Printedin England

(037- 10A1)

JH HAYNES AND COMPANY LIMITED SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET ENGLAND distributed in the USA by HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC. 9421 WINNETKA AVENUE CHATSWORTH LOS ANGELES CALIFORNIA 91311 USA

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Chrysler United Kingdom assistance with regard to the use of technical illustrations; to Castrol

Ltd for their material and

Ltd for lubrication chart information; to

Motor for permission to use the cutaway illustration on the cover; and to Champion Ltd for the spark plug photographs. Thanks are especially due to J R S Hall for his assistance when working on the engine and to Bill Kinchin for unstinted work on

; Kee: ; the text. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct bearing in mind the changes in design and specification which are a continuous process, even within a model range, no liability can be accepted by the authors and publishers for any loss, damage or injury caused by any errors or omissions in the information given.

Introduction This owners workshop manual is intended for the owner of an

Avenger/Cricket who, having acquired his car either new or secondhand, does not wish to spend a fortune in keeping it in a safe, economical and good value condition. No one, however, particularly with all round commitments and interests wishes to spend all his leisure time in looking after his transport. This manual is designed therefore to enable the Practically minded owner to maintain his car and at the same time show him the way to carry out most of the repairs that a car normally requires during its life as economically and quickly as possible.

The modern trends in motor car design and production are towards the fitting of components which are renewed completely if they fail - the economics being that the cost of the time required to repair them is little less than the combined cost of labour and material needed to produce them in the first place. However, this trend has not yet moved things completely out of the owner's control and many items, such as starter motors, dynamos, fuel pumps, distributors, brake cylinders, and so on can

be repaired for an expenditure of pence on parts where replacement would cost pounds. Where a component is only obtainable as a complete unit, an owner should be quite able to install it correctly with the aid of this manual. Now that vehicles over three years old require annual safety checks the need to know where to look for deterioration in the

safety areas is impressed on the owner even more forcibly. Failure will result in loss of use and all the consequent inconvenience and expense. This manual enables the owner to examine the vehicle himself and so ensure its continued safety well before the date of inspection is due. For the most ambitious owner, this manual gives step by step details of all the other repairs and overhauls which we consider are within the capabilities of a practically minded person who is in possession of a reasonably comprehensive set of tools. With regard to the latter, this is one area where only good quality equipment will do. The authors also discourage the borrowing of tools except for certain special items which may only be used once in a blue moon. Certainly we would say that you should not be annoyed if someone should refuse to lend them. Appreciate how much they cost if lost or damaged - apart from the fact that keen owners regard their tools as particularly personal belongings. Much of the work involved in looking after a car and carrying out repairs depends on accurate diagnosis in the first place. Where possible, therefore, a methodical and progressive way of diagnosis is presented. The time that can be wasted in hopping from one possible source of trouble to another, suggested at random quite often by self styled ‘experts’ must have been experienced by many people. It is best to say at the start therefore, ‘This could be one of several things — lets get the book out’.

Photographic captions and cross references The book is divided into thirteen chapters. Each chapter is divided into numbered sections which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each section consists of serially numbered photographs. There are two types of illustration. (1) Figures which are numbered according to Chapter and sequence of occurrence in

that chapter and having an individual caption to each figure. (2)

Photographs which have a reference number in the bottom left hand corner. All photographs apply to the chapter in which they occur so that the reference figures pinpoint the pertinent section and paragraph numbers.

Procedures,

once

described

in the

text,

are

not

normally

repeated. If it is necessary to refer to another chapter the reference will be given in chapter number and section number thus:

Chapter 1/6.

If it is considered necessary to refer to a particular paragraph in another chapter the reference is ‘Chapter 1/6:5’. Cross references given without use of the word ‘Chapter’ apply to sections and/or paragraphs in the same chapter, eg ‘see section8’ means also ‘in this chapter’. When the left or right hand side of a car is mentioned it is as if one was looking in the forward direction of travel.

Contents Chapter

Section

Page

Routine maintenance Ordering spare parts

1

Engine

2

Cooling system

3

Fuel system and carburation

6 9

Section

Page

Recommended lubricants Lubrication chart

General description

16

Removal from chassis Dismantling Examination and renovation

18 22 28

General description

46

Draining

Radiator and thermostat

48

46

Water pump

Flushing and filling Antifreeze

48

48 48

Fan belt adjustment Fault finding chart

50 50

General description Air filter

52 56 56 60

Stromberg Twin 150 CDS Exhaust emission control

64 64

Fuel tank

68

Fuel pump

Stromberg 150 CDS a a i 4 Ignition system General description Contact breaker

ee

Decarbonisation

34 42 45

70

74 ~~ Coil polarity

Distributor 76 ~=Spark plugs eS ee ee ee ee Clutch and actuating mechanism

32

Reassembly ~=Valve clearances Fault finding chart

= Fault finding ee Da ee ee 72 Ignition timing 74 ~~ Ignition faults

Condenser

5

10 11

ee

ee

76 78 80 80

General description

82

Inspection and repair

84

Adjustment Pedal Removal

82 84 84

Replacement Clutch cable Clutch faults

84 84 86

90 90 92 94

Mainshaft Reassembly Inspection =+Fault finding

94 95 100 102

Propeller shaft & universal joints

105

6

Gearbox

General description Removal and replacement Dismantling Primary shaft

7

Propeiler shaft and universal joints

General description

104

8

Rear axle

General description

106

Half shaft bearing oil seals

108

Differential unit

108

General description Drum brakes (rear) Disc brakes (front) Master cylinder

112 114 116 118

Vacuum servo Brake pedal adjustment Bleeding Faults

122 124 124 124

General description Battery Alternator Dynamo Starter motor

130 130 132 134 138

Control box Horns Lamps Windscreen wiper Fault finding

140 142 146 146 150

168 170 172 172

Steering gear adjustment Front wheel bearings Front wheel alignment Fault finding

176 178 178 180

9

Brakes

10 Electrical system

i

a

a

Ss

ee

a

J

ee

ee

13 Supplement - including Plymouth Cricket and Cricket SE (North Anerica)

Index Metric conversion tables

ee

eee

ee

General description Major and minor repairs Doors Bonnet and boot

12 Bodywork and underframe

108

a Springs and shock absorbers Front suspension Rear suspension Steering gear

11 Suspension - dampers - steering

LES

~=—Pinion oil seal

eee

eee

ee

eee

182 183 184 188

Safety belts Ventilating system Heater Body leaks

195

Gearbox

188 188 188 188

ee

Specifications

ew

ne

Engine

201

Automatic transmission

Cooling system Fuel system and carburation Ignition system

201

Braking system Electrical system Suspension, dampers & steering Bodywork and underframe

203 211

213

213 PAT) 219 221 221

225

Two-door

Hillman

Avenger

GT

Routine maintenance Maintenance is essential to ensure safety and desirable for the well being of the car and the preservation of its value. Although the oil can and grease gun have largely been rendered obsolescent by prepacked bearings and automatic lubrication the need for routine cleaning and careful inspection is even more necessary if the twin destructive agents, rust and mechanical wear, are to be kept at bay. At the commencement of each chapter in the Manual there is a

short section on routine maintenance. The owner

is advised to read

through all these and make his own maintenance schedule. There are two spare pages at the end of this book which could be used for that

purpose. In the summary given below a suggested routine of essential maintenance is given. The items in bold type affect the owner’s safety and are vital, the others are designed to combat depreciation.

250 miles or weekly, whichever comes first

STEERING Check tyre pressures. Examine tyres for wear. BRAKES Try an emergency stop. Check the handbrake on a steep incline.

LIGHTS AND ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS Are all the lights working properly? Do the trafficators work correctly? Does the stop light work? Is the windscreen wiper and washer working correctly?

Does the horn work? ENGINE COMPARTMENT Check the level of oil in the sump. Check the level of coolant in the radiator. Check the battery electrolyte level.

Oil level dipstick (A) and engine oil filter (B)

—— eee 1000 miles or monthly, whichever comes first

a

ee

Check for free play in the steering. Check

the level of fluid

indicates again.

in the master cylinder

a loss of fluid investigate

before

reservoir.

If it

going on the road

Routine Maintenance

7

5000 mites or six monthly, whichever comes first

ee

STEERING Examine all steering linkages, rods, joints and bushes for signs of wear or damage. Check front wheel hub bearings and adjust if necessary. Examine the rack unit for leaks at the points indicated

Bene

p

illustration.

in the

a a

. _ See

LS Ww

ed

BRAKES Examine disc pads and drum shoes for wear. Renew if necessary.

~~

ba

=

a

&

fi

:

= S|

Examine all pipes, cylinders and unions for signs of corrosion, dents or chafing. Renew as necessary. Check all unions for leaks, do NOT overtighten unions.

SUSPENSION Check all nuts, bolts and shackles front and rear and adjust if required. Check rubber covers and bushes for signs of deterioration.

REAR AXLE Check oil level.

ENGINE Renew air cleaner element. Drain sump and refill with correct grade oil (see illustration). Fit new oil filter (see illustration). Top up the carburettor damper with oil (see illustration). Clean the flame trap for crankcase ventilation (see illustration). Check ignition timing. Check valve clearances. Check spark plug gaps. Fit new plugs if necessary. Check distributor for cleanliness and gap clearance. Fit new points if necessary.

Check fan belt tension. Examine belt for cracks or fraying.

CLUTCH Check the ciutch release lever free play (see illustration). GEARBOX Check oil level (see iliustration).

10000 miles or annually, in addition to a 5000 mile check

BODYWORK Examine the underbody suspension is anchored. Oil locks and hinges.

for rust,

particularly

where

the rear

Check the condition of the bodyframe mounting at the upper end of the front suspension units.

FUEL SYSTEM Clean the fuel pump filter and sediment bowl. BATTERY Clean terminals and smear with petroleum jelly.

Examine carrier for signs of acid leakage.

LO

sng ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Check headlamp alignment. Fit new windscreen wiper blades.

EXHAUST

SYSTEM

Check for leaks and signs of heavy rusting. Replace BEFORE leaks occur. Faulty exhaust systems can result in fumes in the car, causing accidents or excessive noise leading to public nuisance and

legal action.

Flame trap

F0

\\\

Routine Maintenance

8 eee

Annual Check

plies eet

a

a

Bs

In addition time should be spent on the following: Clean the interior thoroughly, looking for signs of rust and water leakage, however small. Resecure beadings and weatherstrips, replacing them if necessary. Check seat and safety belt anchorages. Check the fire extinguisher and first aid box.

SSS

: ae

Senegal a G,. r ii. a

=

cal

CACC

=

ye”

Beep

(178

eh

i i

lex en UU

li)

a

= a

Tee Ce.

)h) MAA i S§} | jl) a ; 1 MOiy ) M)

Aa

Clutch adjustment

Q Gearbox filler/level plug (A) and drain plug (B)

Ordering spare parts Buy genuine Chrysler/Rootes spare parts from a Rootes dealer direct or through a local garage. If you go direct to an authorised dealer the correctly fitting genuine part can usually be supplied from stock. The full details of the car’s serial number should be available when the parts are ordered or purchased. It is a good idea to

The chassis number plate is fixed to the bonnet locking platform crossmember

purchase the actual part required if possible. Part numbers change and parts are modified so you will be advised to take the storeman’s advice when obtaining parts. The vehicle serial number and suffix letters are stamped on a plate which is affixed to the bonnet lock platform similar to the examples shown below.

The body number is also fixed to the bonnet locking platform adjacent to the chassis number plate

The engine number affixed to the engine block next to the distributor on the camshaft tunnel

ee

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SHLNOW Sl /SAIIW OOOSL AYS/AS

, WERGHIENL cap tAbidon SEA aa teh Eas Gee ee Oo ep ee a one ooo ea

.9374 to .9375 in (23.810 to 23.812 mm) Thrust push fit at normal working temperature ¥ or 10%

Pressure and splash - wet sump Eccentric lobe

Full flow, replaceable 7 pints 6 pints From skew gear on camshaft

0: to 00) lb/sqiinvat oO'mph

-olotted upper skirt Aluminium alloy, tin plated

(68°F

or

20°C)

Chapter 1/Engine

14

0015 to .0023 in (.038 to .058 mm) 3 — two compression and one scraper 2.98 in (75.7 mm) Flat crown

Piston skirt clearance in bore No of rings per piston

Height of piston

... ... ..

Piston identification

...

os +

...

Ring gap with rings fitted in feoren Top compression ring ... 1. eee se eee see tee oes Qnd and scraper rings ... see see cee cee tee tee vee Piston diameter and grades (etree een con Es Gee coo tio co ae ce Gc Grade iB cose cres cae exe Grade nC Grade ‘D’...

ieceuteses cece

esi yesnatenenessl ectrteitnreinessE

cecsttas rarer:

Grade of SPAS

014 to .018 in (.35 to .45 mm) .010 to .014 in (.25 to .35 mm)

3.0926 3.0930 3.0934 3.0938 3.0942

to to to to to

in in in in in

3.0930 3.0934 3.0938 3.0942 3.0946

(78.550 to 78.560 mm) (78.560 to 78.570 mm) (78.570 to 78.580 mm) (78.580 to 78.590 mm) (78.59 to 78.60 mm)

* For service use aly + 030 in (.762 mm) based on Grade ‘B’ bore

Maximum rebore size

Tappets Type

Valves Head diameter

Barrel with hardened base

Inlet . Exhaust

1.418 to 1.422 in (36.01 to 36.11 mm)

1.198 to 1.202 in (30.42 to 30.53 mm) 450

.

Valve seat angle Valve to rocker arm Eleasnices

008 in (.20 mm) hot or cold .016 in (.40 mm) hot or cold

tale

Exhaust Valve stem clearance in guide _ Inlet Exhaust

001 to .0025 in (.025 to .063 mm) 0025 to .0045 in (.063 to .114 mm)

Valve stem diameter standard and oversize Inlet valve standard Inlet valve + .003 in Inlet valve + .015 in Inlet valve + .030 in

3110 in (7.899 mm) Part No 71244380

Exhaust valve standard Exhaust valve + .003 in Exhaust valve + .015 in Exhaust valve + .030 in Exhaust valve clearance and closing position for ereciicgl

timing

3140 3260 3410 3095 3125 3245 3395

in in in in in in in

(7.975 (8.280 (8.661 (7.861 (7.937 (8.242 (8.623

mm) mm) mm) mm) mm) mm) mm)

Valve Timing Inlet valve

38° 66° 72° 20°

Opens Closes Exhaust valve Opens Closes

Valve Springs

BTDC ABDC BBDC ATDC

VDC we essiiayed css) sshius

Single coil

Length . aad Mitte)

1.505 in (38.23 mm) 70 Ib (31.75 kg)

One ABS EAS rec.wecsto at cesmees

Torque Wrench Settings Bigendnuts ... . Camshaft sprocket pore Crankshaft pulley bolt ...

Gylinderhead bolts os 4. Sane Cylinder head nuts Cylinder head studs in cylinder. block

Engine mounting bracket block bolts Flywheel securing bolts ... ... 1. cee ee Main bearing bolts es Manifold bolts (inlet and Eehauetl Manifold nuts (inlet and exhaust).. Manifold studs in cylinder head

Rocker pedestal mounting bolts Spark plugs

ee i

wee aoe

ee

SSeS be i r ‘f

No No No No No No No

.100 in (2.54 mm), 25° BTDC 4.305 to 4.315 in

Valve length

Part Part Part Part Part Part Part

29 34 52 60 60 14 17 40 52 16 16 10

|b ft (4.00 Ib ft (4.70 Ib ft (7.18 Ib ft (8.29 Ib ft (8.29 Ib ft (1.93 |b ft (2.35 Ib ft (5.53 Ib ft (7.18 Ib ft (2.21 Ib ft (2.21 Ib ft (1.38

kg m) kg m) kg m) kg m) kg m) kgm) kg m) kg m) kg m) kg m) kg m) kg m)

17 Ib ft (2.35 kg m) 12 Ib ft (1.65 kg m)

71244381 71244382 71244383 71244386 71244387 71244388 71244389

Chapter 1/Engine

15

Engine - 1500 models (1498 cc) The engine specifications for both 1500 single and twin carburettor models are identical to 1250 models except for the differences listed

below. Where the twin carburettor specification does not differ from the single carburettor specification the word ‘same’ appears.

Engine - general Bore Cubic capacity

Single carburettor

Twin carburettor

86.12mm (3.391 in) 1498 cc (91.41 cu in)

Same Same

9.2 to1 8.0 to 1 170 - 180 Ib/sq in

Same

T50 - 160 Ib/sq in

Not available

Compression Ratios and Pressures Highvcompnessionmationcsmeccueesmestmcrcere ee cas ee EOw,compressiomitatiowery me ueances, Genus. soon acess Eight Compression! pressure csmesteen exon cesieee ae ee ow compression pressuremen paomea eae eaves eet tee *

.

.

.

.

Not available

150 - 160 Ib/sq in *

.

.

.

Note — Later closing of the inlet valve is responsible for the lower compression pressure on twin carburettor engines

Brake Horse Power High compression engines Low compression engines

63 bhp @ 5000 rpm

75 bhp @ 5400 rpm

57 bhp @ 5000 rpm

N/A

Maximum Torque High compression engines Low compression engines

80 Ib ft @ 3000 rpm 74 |b ft @ 3000 rpm

81 |b ft @ 3750 rpm N/A

None ‘LB’ on gasket

‘S' cast on top face Same

2.934 - 2.938 in (74.52 - 74.62 mm)

Same

Recessed crown

Same Same Same .0029 - .0037 in (.073 - .093 mm)

Cylinder Head Identification bee a Gasket identification

ee

Gudgeon Pin Length Pistons and Piston Rings Piston identification ... ... ..

.025 - .035 in (.63 to .88 mm) .080 - .085 in (2.03 - 2.15 mm) .0015 - .0023 in (.038 - .058 mm)

Piston crown depth

High compression Low compression Piston skirt clearance in bore

Piston Diameter and Grades Grade A Grade B Grade C Grade D Grade E

3.3887 3.3891 3.3895 3.3899 3.3903

Valves Lleadidiameterlmlet? acc cetvese ses teow “wee Exhaustive. esses. Valve torocker armclearances Inlet ... Exhaust

cox ...

aac ..

-

3.3891 3.3895 3.3899 3.3903 3.3907

in in in in in

(86.073 (86.083 (86.093 (86.103 (86.113

-

IMMeeretee Laces an

ssc

cctteseccsshiven!

econ cesuucesie gece eon

one

Opens Closes

“Exhaust valve Opens Closes

in in in in

(86.048 (86.058 (86.068 (86.078

-

86.058 86.068 86.078 86.088

1.418 - 1.422 in (36.01 - 36.11 mm)

1.468 - 1.472 in (37.29 - 37.39 mm)

.

Same .010 in (.25 mm) .016 in (.40 mm)

meee

cee ence es) eo A uO

+.030 in . Exhaust valve clearance and closing position for GheekinGyulhmiMG eemesmecce se eseiise sien Ncremices fem= iene Valve Timing Inlet valve

3.3881 3.3885 3.3889 3.3893

1.198 - 1.202 in (30.42 - 30.53 mm) .008 in (.20 mm) .016 in (.40 mm)

OOS: iiicsacesseeerero eeoeen Nema iewe) Meer 51 OHLowi lemnterioogcr eect tater ume eal ePREG te OSOPateticecd-ces Mestrace nlcco> es eaveccs ETO SS(OURS

86.093 mm) 3.3877 86.103 mm) 3.3881 86.113 mm) 3.3885 86.123 mm) 3.3889 -

oes

Valve stem standard and oversize part nos (stem diameter same as 1250 engine) 71244380 laletvalVemstandarde.caaestacy ses. ces cusses uote aes

Exhaust valvesstanGandmesuece

86.083 mm) 3.3873 - 3.3877 in (86.038 - 86.048 mm)

71244381 71244382 71244383

71244361 71244362 71244363 71244364

71244386 71244387 71244388 71244389

Same Same Same Same

.100 in (2.54 mm) 22° BTDC

100 in (2.54 mm) 129 BTDC

35° 69° 69° 239

44° 78° 69° 239

BIDE ABDC BBDC ATDC

BTDC ABDC BBDC ATDC

mm) mm) mm) mm)

Chapter 1/Engine

16 Valve Springs Dock

Type

LOIN

ate sae Soe ec

Ta

cest aioe Gen teed dete ees

Oe

ce do ea cm ow Oop en ob con Gah EBD BoD coo con a

Load fitted

Timing Chain and Gearwheels cay ten cea om cco ems UNSSC CHELM) ay

PelOh geanwhCelle

wredmcccntsca)

(scot fecelterey

Single Carburettor

Twin Carburettor

Single coil

Double coils

1.505 in (38.23 mm)

1.34 in (34.0 mm) outer

1.00 in (25.4 mm) inner

70 Ib (31.75 kg)

52.7 |b outer

17.3 |b inner

ton mo on cao ao eee

N/A

Duplex twin track

etllarsllies

N/A

Twin track teeth

ee

lets) eseiRes

1 General Description The engine fitted may be of 1248 cc or 1498 cc capacity. Exploded views of the engine are shown in Fig 1.6 and 1.7. Externally these engines look the same but if it is wished to identify them check the front right hand corner of the cylinder block (see Fig 1.1) for the letters ‘SB’ or ‘LB’. The former stands for ‘small bore’ and indicates that the 1248 cc engine is fitted, while ‘LB’ stands for ‘large bore’ and refers to the 1498 cc engine. The letter ‘S’ stamped on the top front left of the cylinder head indicates the twin carburettor high performance engine (see Fig 1.2). The stroke on both engines is the same. Both units are identical in design and differ only in the size of some of the components used, in particular the pistons, cylinder head gaskets, and the camshaft timing wheels. Two valves per cylinder are mounted vertically in the cast iron cylinder head and run directly in the metal. They are operated by rocker arms, pushrods and tappets from the camshaft which is placed high on the right hand side of the engine. The correct valve stem to rocker arm pad clearance can be obtained by the adjusting screws in the ends of the rocker arms. To minimise excessive oil consumption and carbon build up on the underside of the inlet valve head, special oil seals are fitted on the inlet valve guide bores, inside the inlet valve springs just above the valve guides. The valves fitted to the 1500 cylinder head are of larger head diameter than those on the smaller capacity engine in the interests of improved performance. The valves fitted to the 1500 S engine are larger still. The individual inlet and exhaust ports are all on the left hand side of the cylinder head. Differences in compression ratio are obtained by using pistons with flat or recessed crowns. The cylinder block and the upper half of the crankcase form one casting with the piston and cam follower bores machined directly in the cast iron. The cylinder bores are completely surrounded by water jackets. The open half of the crankcase is closed by a pressed steel sump. The pistons are made from anodised aluminium alloy with solid

skirts.

Two

compression

rings and a slotted oil control

ring are

fitted. The gudgeon pin is retained in the little end of the connecting rod by circlips. The connecting rod bearings are all steel backed and have aluminium tin or lead indium bearing surfaces.

At the front of the engine a single chain drives the camshaft via the camshaft and crankshaft chain wheels which are enclosed in a pressed

steel

cover.

On

1500

S models

a duplex

chain

and twin

track chain wheels are fitted. The chain is tensioned automatically by a Renolds tensioner. This presses against the non driving side of the chain so avoiding any lash or rattle. 1500 S models use a wider tensioner and the underside of the driving side of the chain is fitted with a rubber faced shock absorber (see Fig 1.3). The camshaft is supported by three renewable bearings located directly in the cylinder block. End float is controlled by a semicircular collar bolted to the front of the cylinder block and positioned between the front bearing journal and the chain wheel flange. The statically and dynamically balanced cast iron crankshaft is supported by five renewable thinwall shell main bearings which are in turn supported by substantial webs which form crankcase. Crankshaft end float is controlled by two

thrust washers

part of the semicircular

located on each side of the rear main bearings. The

main bearings fitted are of the aluminium tin type. To prevent oil leaks from where the nose of the crankshaft passes through the timing cover, and from where the rear boss of the crankshaft passes through into the flywheel housing, oil seals are fitted. The front seal is a circular spring loaded rubber ring pressed into the timing cover and bearing on the crankshaft pulley flange

(see Fig 1.5). The rear seal is similar. It is mounted in the rear face of the block and bears on the crankshaft boss. The centrifugal water pump and radiator cooling fan are driven, together with the dynamo, from the crankshaft pulley wheel by a rubber/fabric belt. The distributor is mounted towards the front of the right hand side of the cylinder block and advances and retards the ignition timing by mechanical and vacuum means. The distributor is driven at half crankshaft speed from a skew gear on the camshaft. The oil pump is mounted inside the sump towards the front of the engine and is driven by the bottom end of the same shaft which drives the distributor. An oil pressure relief valve is located in the oil pump end cover and this ensures that the oil pressure never exceeds the maximum figure. Bolted to the flange on the end of the crankshaft is the cast iron flywheel to which is bolted in turn the clutch. Attached to the rear of the engine is the gearbox bellhousing. So that either an inertia type or pre-engaged type of starter motor can be used the flywheel ring gear teeth are chamfered on each side. On engines fitted with a Borg Warner type 35 automatic transmission drive from the crankshaft is taken to the torque converter through a steel driving disc instead of the flywheel.

2 Major Operations Possible with the Engine in Place The following work may be conveniently carried out with the engine in place: 1 Removal and replacement of the cylinder head assembly. 2 Removal and replacement of the clutch assembly. 3 Removal and replacement of the engine front mountings. The following work can be carried out with the engine in place, if a pit or ramps, or two strong stands and a good jack are available: 4 Removal and replacement of the sump. 5 Removal and replacement of big end bearings (after sump removal). 6 Removal and replacement of pistons and connecting rods (after removing cylinder head and sump). 7 Removal and replacement of the flywheel (after removing the clutch). 8

Removal

and

replacement

of the

timing

(after removal! of the sump). 9 Removal and replacement of the oil pump sump).

chain

and

sprockets

(after removal of the

10 Removal and replacement of the timing cover oil seal.

3 Major Operations Possible with the Engine Removed The following major operations can only be carried out with the

engine out of the bodyframe and on the bench or floor: 1 Removal bearings.

and

replacement

of crankshaft

and

crankshaft

main

17

WAL

Th |

VAex

aa | iS 4al

K SL,

Fig.

1.2.

The

Fig. 1.3. The

letter

‘S’ indicates the high performance carburettor engine

twin

duplex chain, larger tensioner and rubber damper; used on 1500 ’S’ engines

faced

TIMING — MARKS

INLET STEM

VALVE OIL SEAL

Fig. 1.4. Special double valve springs, larger split collets, a onepiece collar and special coil seals are used on the 1500 ‘S’ engine

Chapter 1/Engine EO 18 2

Removal and replacement of flywheel.

3 Removal and replacement of the rear crankshaft oil seal.

ee Be eS e ns 4 Methods of Engine Removal ee BA ee The engine complete with gearbox can be lifted as a unit from the engine compartment. Alternatively the engine and gearbox can be split at the front of the bellhousing, a stand or jack placed under the gearbox to provide additional support, and the engine lifted out. The easiest method of engine removal is to remove the engine leaving the gearbox in place in the car. If the engine and gearbox are removed as a unit they have to be lifted out at a very steep angle which can be

difficult. Whether

or not components like the carburettor, manifolds, dynamo and starter are removed first, depends to a certain extent on what work is to be done. For example the starter can be left in place if the engine is removed in unit with the gearbox. Note that if

automatic transmission is fitted the engine must be lifted out in unit with the transmission.

eeeEeEeeESEeFsese

engine fairly easily in about 2% hours. It is essential to have a good hoist and two strong axle stands if an inspection pit or ramps are not available. Engine removal will be much easier if you have someone to help you. Before beginning work it is worthwhile to get all the accumulated debris cleaned off the engine unit at a service station which is equipped with steam or high pressure air and water cleaning equipment. It helps to make the job quicker, easier and of course much cleaner. Decide whether you are going to jack up the car and support it on axle stands or raise the front end on wheel ramps. If the latter, run the car up now (and chock the rear wheels) whilst you still have engine power available. Remember that with the front wheels supported on ramps the working height and engine lifting height is going to be increased. 2 Remove the radiator cap and open the water drain plug on the bottom right hand side of the radiator. Open the drain tap on the left hand side of the cylinder block. Check that the heater control valve is in the hot position so the water in the heater will drain out too. Do not drain the water in your garage or the place where the engine is going to be removed if receptacles are not at hand to catch the water. Re-use the water if it is full of antifreeze. 3 Drain the engine oil by removing the drain plug on the bottom right hand side of the sump. Ensure the receptacle you catch the oil in has a capacity of 1 gallon.

5 Engine Removal without Gearbox 1 The average do-it-yourself owner

should

be able to remove the

nl NU iT)

4 Open the bonnet and lift it back well out of the way. To avoid accidental damage it is best to remove it completely after undoing the two bolts on the bonnet side of each hinge.

hte

| Z

VOTE VOOR PEPE

HE

In

COUUECUECEEEE Eee ere

FRONT OIL SEAL— CORRECT POSITION IN TIMING COVER

Fig. 1.5. The position of the front oil seal

5

Lift the windscreen

washer reservoir bag

6

Disconnect

the

battery

by undoing

off its hooks on the battery clamp and place

screw which

beside the battery.

the battery post and pull off the terminal.

the

holds the earth lead terminal to

7

Undo the clip which holds the top end of

the bottom

and

radiator hose to the water pump

then pull the hose off the pump

inlet

pipe.

8

Undo theclip which holds the top radiator

9

Free the heater hoses at the heateronthe

10Lift

out

the

radiator

with

the top and

hose to the thermostat cover outlet pipe and pull the hose off. Disconnect the petrol feed

bulkhead. With a % inch AF spanner undo the four bolts (two on each side) which hold

bottom hoses still connected taking care not to damage the radiator core on the fan

pipe from the inlet side of the fuel pump.

the radiator in place.

blades.

11 Pull the two leads off their Lucar terminals at the rear of the dynamo or alternator.

12 Pull the lead off the Lucar terminal onthe water temperature gauge sender unit positioned just underneath the thermostat outlet.

13 Pull the LT lead off the Lucar terminal on the side of the distributor.

14 The oi! pressure warning light switch is positioned adjacent to the oil filter. Pull the lead to the switch off its Lucar terminal.

16 From the side of the carburettor undo the the coil HT lead to the 15 Disconnect screw which holds the choke inner cable in distributor by pulling it away from its location in the centre of the distributor cap. _ place.

17 Free the choke outer cable by releasing the spring clip from the bracket on the side of the carburettor.

20 Undo the top two engine to bellhousing bolts. Place a jack under the centre of the front crossmember, jack up the front of the car

and support

on

two

axle stands

posi-

tioned under the outer ends of the crossmember. Remove the jack. From under the car remove the bottom starter motor bolt and withdraw the starter motor and the small flywheel splash shield from their locations. Immediately behind the sump a flywheel cover plate is bolted to the bottom portion of the front face of the bellhousing. Undo the small bolts and remove the plate.

18 To free the accelerator rod from the carburettor, spring the small circlip located

19 Disconnect the lead to the starter motor terminal and remove the top starter motor

in the groove in the end of the rod and slide

bolt/nut which also carries the engine earth

the rod out of the plastic trunnion throttle lever.

lead.

in the

21 Undo the remaining bolts which hold the gearbox bellhousing to the rear of the engine and place a jack under the front of the gearbox to take its weight when the engine is lifted out. Undo the two nuts and washers which hold the exhaust downpipe to the exhaust manifold and separate. On the left hand side of the cylinder head are two very strong heater hose support brackets, one at the front and one at the rear which double as

engine lifting brackets. Pull the heater hose clips out of these brackets and thread rope, chain, or hooks through the lifting bracket

eyes.

22 From under the car undo the two nuts and washers from the engine mounting stud inside the crossmember, one on each side of

the car. If your hoist has a limited lift now is the time to remove the axle stands and lower the car to the ground. Take the weight of the engine on suitable lifting tackle and then lift a

couple

of inches

so

that

the

threaded

engine mounting studs come out of the slots in the crossmember. The engine can then be drawn forward until the input shaft in the gearbox is clear of the clutch pressure plate onthe rear of the engine. Then lift the engine straight up and out, either rolling the car back if the hoist is fixed or pulling the engine forwards if the hoist is the trolley type (see Fig 1.8).

Fig. 1.8. Lifting the Avenger engine out. Note that the chain is attached to the eyes in the heater hose brackets which are very strong and make ideal lifting hooks

21

Fig. 1.6. EXPLODED VIEW OF THE ENGINE INTERNAL WORKING PARTS 31 2nd piston ring (stepped 16 Inlet valve 46 Main bearings 1,2,4,5 47 Main bearing No 3 Exhaust valve type) 48 Thrust washers Push rod 32 Oil scraper ring (slotted) 49 Crankshaft Tappet 33 Piston 50 Crankshaft rear oil seal Rear bearing Gudgeon pin 51 Flywheel dowel Camshaft Circlip 52 Flywheel ring gear Centre bearing Con rod 53 Flywheel Thrust plate Small end bush 54 Flywheel fixing bolts Thrust plate fixing screws Big end nuts and bolts 55 Spigot bush - gearbox Front bearing Con rod cap input shaft Timing chain Big end bearing 56 Spigot bush - convertor Chain drive wheel Chain tensioner

Rocker shaft carrier and fixing bolts Locknut Adjustment screw Rocker Inner spring Plug Rocker shaft Outer spring Outer spring retainer Valve collets Inner collar Valve spring cap Oil seal. Inlet valve only Oil seal retainer Valve spring

Chain drive wheel dowel Chain wheel fixing screw

Top piston ring (chromium

plated)

Crankshaft chainwheel key Crankshaft chain wheel Pulley Pulley fixing bolt

spigot end

22

Chapter 1/Engine

6 Engine Removal with Gearbox 1 As the engine and gearbox have to come out at a very steep angle removing them together is slightly more difficult than lifting the engine out on its own. 2 Follow the instructions in Section 5 omitting paragraphs 20, 21 and 22. Ensure the bonnet is removed in this operation. 3 Remove the gear lever from inside the car as described in Chapter

6, Section 2 4 Jack up the front of the car and fit stands at each end of the front crossmember. From under the car disconnect the clutch release arm from the actuating cable by pulling off the return spring and then undoing the locknut and adjuster nut from the rod which passes through the release arm. 5 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the right hand side of the gearbox extension housing by undoing the knurled nut which holds it in place. 6 Remove the gearbox mounting crossmember from the bodyshell

Otherwise put them in small, separate pots or jars so that their groups are easily identified.

ee ee, 8 Engine Dismantling - Ancillary Components See ee ee eeeeee ee

een

1 If you are obtaining a factory replacement reconditioned engine all ancillaries must come off first - just as they will if you are doing a thorough engine inspection/overhaul yourself. These are:

Dynamo Distributor Thermostat and cover Oil filter Carburettor Inlet manifold Exhaust manifold Water pump Fuel pump

undoing the two % inch AF bolts, one at each end, and remove the

Engine mounting brackets

long bolt from the centre of the crossmember to free the gearbox crossmember from the gearbox extension housing. 7 Undo the four 7/16 inch AF bolts from the fan blades and remove the blades, fan pulley and belt. The engine can be lifted out without taking the blades off, but it is a tight squeeze. 8 It is also advised that the four % inch AF bolts which hold the

Spark plugs

(Chapter (Chapter (Chapter (Section (Chapter (Section (Section (Chapter (Chapter

10) 4) 2) 9) 3) 9) 9) 2) 3) (Section 9) (Chapter 4)

2 \f you are obtaining what is called a ‘short engine’ (or sometimes ‘half-engine’) comprising cylinder block, crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods all assembled, then the cylinder head, flywheel, sump and oil pump will need removal also.

anti-roll bar in place are removed, to allow the bar to drop slightly,

3 Remove

but this is not essential and will not prevent the engine being lifted

for them described in the chapters and sections as indicated in Paragraph one. 4 Oil Filter - Removal The oil filter fitted is a full flow screw-on throw away type. Grasp the body of the filter firmly, turn it anticlockwise and screw it off the threaded sleeve. 5 Inlet and Exhaust Manifold - Removal The inlet and exhaust manifolds are bolted together and it is best to remove them as a unit. Undo the seven % inch AF bolts and washers, and the three % inch AF nuts and washers which hold the manifold to the side of the cylinder head and then lift them away. 6 Engine Front Mounting Brackets - Removal

out. Disconnect the leads from the side of the gearbox for the reversing lights, if fitted. 9 Undo the two nuts and washers which hold the exhaust downpipe to the exhaust manifold and separate. From under the car undo the two nuts and washers from the engine mounting studs inside the front crossmember, one on each side of the car.

10 Position the lifting tackle so the engine will come out at an angle of about 45°. The front lifting bracket and round the centre exhaust manifold pipe are two good places to sling from. Lift the engine up and out carefully. As soon as the engine starts to come forward the front end gearbox.

of the propeller shaft will slide out of the rear of the

7 Engine Dismantling - General 1 Really keen owners who dismantle a lot of engines will probably have a stand on which to mount them but most will make do with a work bench which should be large enough to spread the inevitable bits and pieces and tools around on, and strong enough to support the engine weight. If the floor is the only possible place try and ensure that the engine rests on a hardwood platform or similar rather than concrete (or beaten earth!). 2 Spend some time on cleaning the unit. If you have been wise this will have been done before the engine was removed, at a service bay. Good solvents such as Gunk will help to ‘float’ off caked dirt/grease under a water jet. Once the exterior is clean, dismantling may begin. As parts are removed clean them in petrol or paraffin (do not immerse parts with oilways in paraffin - clean them with a petrol soaked cloth and clear oilways with pipe cleaners. If an air line is available so much the better for final cleaning off. Paraffin, which could possibly remain in oilways would dilute the oil for initial lubrication after reassembly). 3 Where components are fitted with seals and gaskets it is always best to fit new ones - but do NOT throw the old ones away until you have the new ones to hand. A pattern is then available if they have to

be specially made. Hang them on a convenient hook.

4 Ingeneral it is best to work from the top of the engine downwards. In any case support the engine firmly so that it does not topple over when you are undoing stubborn nuts and bolts.

5 Always place nuts and bolts back together in their components or place of attachment if possible - it saves so much confusion later.

all the ancillaries according to the removal instructions

Each bracket is held to the block by four bolts. Undo the bolts with a ring or socket spanner. The brackets may be removed if

necessary, with the engine still in place. The engine should be supported underneath and the bolts securing them to the engine and frame removed. renewed.

In this way

the flexible

mountings

may

also be

9 Cylinder Head Removal - Engine out of Car

1 Position the engine on a bench (or floor) with the cylinder head uppermost.

2 Remove the six screws holding the rocker cover and lift it off together with the cork sealing gasket which may be re-used if it is not over compressed or damaged. 3 Remove the carburettor (Chapter 3). The manifolds may be removed but it is not essential.

4 Undo

the eight bolts and washers which

pedestals to the top of the cylinder rocker arms and pedestals. 5 Lift out the pushrods and put board, the holes numbered one to identified to its relative rocker arm

inlet

and

exhaust

hold the four rocker

head and lift off the rocker shaft,

them into a piece of pierced cardeight, so that each pushrod can be and tappet. 6 Slacken off the ten cylinder head holding down bolts and nuts in the reverse order of the tightening sequence (Fig 1.25) ie work from the outside towards the centre. 7 The cylinder head should now lift off easily. If not, try turning the engine over by the flywheel (with the spark plugs in position) so that compression in the cylinders can force it upwards. A few smart taps with a soft headed mallet or wood cushioned hammer may also be needed. Under no circumstances whatsoever try to prise the head

23

Oil filler cap Rocker cover Rocker cover gasket Cylinder head Cylinder head gasket Oahwn— Cylinder head

stud, nut and washer Cylinder block drain tap Blanking cups - cylinder block Cylinder block owon

Fig. 1.7. EXPLODED VIEW OF THE ENGINE STATIC PARTS Front blanking cup 18 Sump gasket Timing cover gasket 19 Main bearing bolt and Timing cover dowel washer Timing cover Front main bearing cap Oil seal - timing cover Blanking plug Sump Sump screw and spring washer Sump drain plug and washer

Dipstick tube Dipstick

assembly

26 Rear main bearing side joint 27 Blanking plug 28 Camshaft rear bearing end blanking cup 29 Water jets

30 Cylinder head bolt and

Threaded sleeve - oil filter to cylinder block

Engine rubber mounting

31

washer Cylinder head rear end

blanking cup

1/Engine Chapter 24 a Shi a tae le SS

off by forcing a lever of any sort into the joint. This can cause damage to the machined surfaces of the block and cylinder head.

eS Ee eo 13 Valve Guides - Reconditioning a ey Le

ee ee 10 Cylinder Head Removal - Engine in Car RA TEE UR oa ee

direct in the cylinder head) ie if there is noticeable movement when

1

Before

Engine

proceeding

Out

as described

for ‘Cylinder

of Car’ it is first of all necessary

Head

If the valves are a slack fit in the guides (the guides are machined

Removal

to carry

-

out the

following, including the removal of the parts as stated: Disconnect both battery leads. Drain the cooling system of 4 pints of water. Remove the hoses from the thermostat housing. Remove the carburettor air cleaner unit. the vacuum advance suction pipe from both ~ne Wh Disconnect anh carburettor and distributor and take it off. 7 Disconnect the fuel feed pipe by unscrewing the union at the carburettor. 8 Free the outer choke cable by releasing the spring clip from the bracket on the side of the carburettor. 9 To

disconnect

the accelerator

rod from

the carburettor,

spring

the small circlip located in the groove in the end of the rod and slide the rod out of the plastic trunnion in the throttle lever. 10 Pull off the lead from its Lucar terminal on the water temperature gauge sender unit at the front of the cylinder head under the thermostat housing. 11 Disconnect the heater hoses at the front of the engine and free them from their spring clips on the side of the rocker cover. 12 Remove the distributor cap complete with the plug leads and coil lead which should be disconnected at the plugs and coil respectively.

13 Proceed as for removing the head with the engine out of the car

(Section 9). If the engine needs turning to assist in breaking the joint, reconnect the battery leads and give the engine a quick turn with the starter motor. Make certain that fuel from the pump spurts into a jam jar or cloth.

side to side pressure is exerted on the stem whilst in the guide, then the procedure is to ream out the valve guide bores and fit new valves with oversize stems. Reaming is a skilled operation and the non-qualified owner would be well advised to have this done by a fitter. When valves with oversize stems are fitted a number, to indicate the amount of oversize, ie + .015 in or + .030 in is stamped on the

cylinder head in the position shown in Fig 1.9. If the number + 3 is already there this indicates that valves with stems .003 in oversize were fitted during manufacture. This does not affect the two oversize stems available. a 14 Sump - Removal JE EE ie ETS VI

an en

1 The sump can be removed with the engine in or out of the car. With the engine in situ, raise the front of the car and support firmly on axle stands. Alternatively run the car over a pit or up onto a pair of ramps. Disconnect the battery. Undo the oil drain plug on the right hand side of the sump with a 1 inch AF spanner and drain the engine oil into a container with a capacity of at least 8 pints. Undo the setscrews round the periphery of the sump with a 7/16 in AF spanner and lower the sump to the ground. 2 With the engine out, it is better to wait until the cylinder head is removed. Then invert the engine and undo the setscrews holding the sump to the crankcase and lift it off. If the cylinder head is not being removed (for example if the oil pump only is being removed) the engine should be placed on its side and the sump removed as described. 15 Crankshaft Pulley and Timing Cover - Removal

11

1 The timing cover can be removed with the engine in the car and without removing the sump or radiator, providing that the block is thoroughly drained both before and after the water pump is taken

Rocker Assembly - Dismantling

1 Pull off the lock springs from each end of the rocker shaft and slide from the shaft the four pedestals, the rocker arms and spacing springs.

off. 2 Disconnect the battery and remove described in Chapter 10, Section 7/11

2 Keep the rocker arms relative to each other.

3 Drain the radiator and cylinder block, catching the water in a clean bowl if antifreeze has been added. 4 Undo the four bolts and washers which hold the fan blades and the pulley wheel in place and remove them together with the fan belt. 5 With asocket spanner undo the crankshaft pulley bolt and pull off the pulley wheel. If the pulley is difficult to move place two large screwdrivers behind the pulley wheel at 180° to each other and carefully lever off the wheel. It is preferable to use a proper pulley extractor if this is available, but large screwdrivers or tyre levers are quite suitable, providing care is taken not to damage the pulley flange. Sometimes the pulley will come off very easily, sometimes

and

pedestals

in their correct

positions

12 Valve Removal 1 The valves can be removed from the cylinder head by the following method. Compress each spring in turn with a valve spring compressor until the two halves of the split conical collets can be removed. Release the compressor and remove the spring, shroud and valve. 2 \f, when the valve spring compressor is screwed down, the valve spring retaining cap refuses to free to expose the split collet, do not continue to screw down o:: the compressor as there is a likelihood of damaging it. 3 Gently tap the top of the tool directly over the cap with a light hammer. This will free the cap. To avoid the compressor jumping off the valve spring retaining cap when it is tapped, hold the compressor firmly in position with one hand. 4 Slide the rubber oil control seal off the top of each inlet valve stem and then drop out each valve through the combustion chamber. 5

It is essential

that the valves are kept in their correct sequence

unless they are so badly worn that they are to be renewed. are going to be kept and used again, place them in a sheet having eight holes numbered 1 to 8 corresponding with the positions the valves were in when fitted. Also keep the valve washers etc in the correct order.

If they of card relative springs,

the dynamo/alternator

as

not.

6 Remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft nose with a pair of pliers and note how the channel in the pulley is designed to fit over it. Place the Woodruff key in a glass jam jar as it is a very small part and can easily become lost. 7 Undo the bolts holding the water pump in place and pull it away from the front of the engine. It is now most important that the rear of the car is jacked up, so that any water left in the block will drain

out. If this is not done water could get into the sump when the timing cover is removed. This means the sump will have to be dropped and thoroughly cleaned out. 8 With a 7/16 inch AF spanner undo the four sump screws at the front of the sump under the timing cover. Undo the bolts which secure the timing cover in place, and as the bolts are of different lengths insert them in their relative positions into holes in a piece of

THRUST

sa)

32)

Standard,

unstamped

+ .003 oversize

(isi)

Cor

exis ae)

+ .015 oversize

L530]

or

[2 30

+ .030 oversize

Fig.

1.9. The

location

PLATE

of the valve guide

bore

identification

Fig. 1.10. The timing marks showing their correct position when replacing the timing chain on 1250 engines. Note also the 1250 camshaft gearwheel identification mark.

marks and the stamping code

THRUST PLATE

:

Saag

ED EZ

Fig. 1.11. The timing marks, showing their correct position when replacing the timing chain on 1500 engines

—

G

§

Fig. 1.12. EXPLODED VIEW OF THE TIMING CHAIN AUTOMATIC TENSIONER 1 Oil feed hole to timing chain 6 Restraint cylinder 2 Slipper head 3 Slipper head plunger 4 Spring - compression type

5 Limit peg - inside plunger (3)

7 Chain tensioner body 8 Backplate 9 Oil feed hole

10 Cardboard packer

Chapter 1/Engine 26 es i thin card. 9 Pull off the timing cover, tapping it gently with a soft faced hammer if necessary, as the cover is sometimes a very tight fit over its two locating dowels. C—O

16 Timing Chain and Gearwheels - Removal ce) Se 2 1 Note that the camshaft gearwheels for 1250 and 1500 engines are not interchangeable. The 1250 camshaft gearwheel can be identified by asmall mark close to the centre of the wheel as shown in Fig 1.10. The 1500 gearwheel is quite plain apart from the timing marks. 2 Undo the bolt which retains the camshaft sprocket wheel in place. If it is just the chain or sprocket wheels that are being renewed, then turn the engine so that the timing marks on the periphery of the wheels are opposite each other on an imaginary line passing through

the centre of both sprockets (See Fig 1.10). 3 To remove the camshaft and crankshaft timing wheels complete with chain, ease each wheel forward a little at a time levering behind each gearwheel in turn with two large screwdrivers at 180° to each other. The gearwheels are only a hand press fit and they will probably pull off very easily. With both gearwheels safely off, remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft with a pair of pliers and place it in the jam jar for safe keeping.

TS!

ing rod and cap with its cylinder number and relationship - preferably with the appropriate number of dabs of paint. Using punch or file marks may be satisfactory, but it has been known for tools to slip or the marks even to cause metal fatigue in the connecting rod. Once marked, undo the bearing cap nuts using a good quality socket spanner. Lift off each bearing cap and put it in a safe place. Carefully turn the engine on its side. Each piston can now be pushed out from the block by its connecting rod. Note that if the pistons are standard there are two small letters stamped on the edge of the top face of each piston. These letters indicate the piston and gudgeon pin grade and also the front of the piston. Some models may be fitted with pistons which use the word ‘Front’ or the letter ‘F’. All three forms of identification indicate the side of the piston towards the front of

the engine. The shell bearings in the connecting rods and caps can be removed simply by pressing the edge of the end opposite the notch in the shell and they will slide round to be lifted out. ee 20 Gudgeon Pins - Removal eS ee ee ne 1 Clean the carbon from the outer ends of the hole which runs through the centre of the piston. 2 With a pair of circlip pliers remove a circlip from either end of the gudgeon pin hole and slide out the gudgeon pin. If the gudgeon pin is reluctant to move under normal hand pressure heat the piston in a bowl of hot water and then slide the pin out.

17 Timing Chain Automatic Tensioner - Removal 1

Remove

the crankshaft

pulley

wheel

and

the timing

cover

as

21

Piston Rings - Removal and Replacement

described in Section 15.

2 With a 7/16 inch AF spanner loosen the two bolts which hold the tensioner to the front face of the block. Hold the slipper head of the tensioner into the body to prevent the assembly springing apart, take

off the two securing bolts and remove the tensioner and its backplate from the engine. 3 Carefully release stand out fully from the chain tensioner (which may have to slipper head plunger.

the hold on the slipper the tensioner body. Lift body, and then remove be turned anticlockwise)

head which will then the slipper head out of the restraint cylinder and spring, out of the

1 Unless new rings are to be fitted for certain, care has to be taken that rings are not broken on removal. Starting with the top ring first (all rings are to be removed from the top of the piston) ease one end out of its groove and place a piece of steel band (shim, old feeler gauge blade, strip of cocoa tin!) behind it. 2

Then move

the metal strip carefully round behind the ring, at the

same time nudging the ring upwards so that it rests on the surface of the piston above until the whole ring is clear and can be slid off. With the second and third rings which must also come off the top, arrange the strip of metal to carry them over the other grooves. 3 Note where each ring has come from (pierce a piece of paper with

each ring showing (top 1’, ‘middle 1’ etc). 18 Camshaft - Removal The camshaft

can be removed

or with the engine on the bench. with

the engine

cooling tappets

with the engine in place in the car,

If the camshaft is to be removed

in the car, the radiator must

be removed

after the

system has been drained. The rocker gear, pushrods and must also be removed. The timing cover, gears and chain

must be removed as described in Section 16. It is also necessary to remove the oil pump and the fuel pump. With the oil pump drive gear out of the way, proceed in the following manner: 1 Remove the two bolts and spring washers which hold the camshaft locating plate to the block. The bolts are normally covered by

the camshaft gearwheel. 2 Remove the plate. The camshaft can now be withdrawn. Take great care to remove the camshaft gently, and in particular ensure

that the cam peaks do not damage the camshaft bearings as the shaft is pulled forward.

19 Pistons, Connecting Rods and Big End Bearings - Removal

4 On replacement ensure that the piston and piston rings have been inspected and renewed in accordance with the procedures described in Section 31.

5 Check that the ring grooves and oilways are completely clean. 6 Fit the rings over the top of the piston starting with the bottom oil control ring. 7 The ring may be spread with the fingers sufficiently to go around the piston, but it could be difficult getting the first ring past the other grooves. It is well worth spending a little time cutting a strip of thin tin plate from any handy can, say 1 inch wide and slightly shorter in length than the piston circumference. Place the ring round this and then slide the strip with the ring on it over the piston until the ring can be conveniently slipped off into its groove. 8 Follow in the same way with the other two rings - remembering that the ring with the cut-out step goes in the second groove with the step towards the bottom of the piston (see Fig 1.14). 9 The words ‘TOP’ or ‘BOTTOM’ which may be marked on the rings indicate which way up the ring goes in its groove in the piston ie the side marked ‘TOP’ should face the top of the piston, and does not mean that the ring concerned should necessarily go into the top

groove. 1 As it is necessary to remove the cylinder head and the sump from the engine in order to remove pistons and connecting rods, the removal of the engine is the logical thing to do first. With the engine on the bench and the cylinder head and sump removed, stand the block inverted (with crankshaft uppermost). 2 Each connecting rod and its bearing cap is matched, and held by two high tensile steel bolts. Before anything else, mark each connect-

10 If new rings are being fitted any surface oil ‘glaze’ on the cylinder walls should be removed by rubbing with a very fine abrasive. This can be a very fine emery cloth or a fine cutting paste as used for rubbing down paintwork. This enables new rings to bed into the cylinders properly which would otherwise be prevented or at least delayed for a long time. Make sure that all traces of abrasive are confined to the cylinder bores and are completely cleaned off before

27

Y

Fig. 1.13. Sectional views of the timing chain automatic tensioner

Fig. 1.15. When

breaking cylinder ‘glase’ rub the emery cloth at

an angle of 60° to form a diamond pattern as shown

Fig. grade

1.14.

The

front

letter as shown

the correct

of the piston or the word

is indicated ‘FRONT’

by the

bore

or just ‘F’. Note

way round of fitting the second compression shown inset. The top ring is chrome plated.

ring

ee 8

assembling the pistons into the cylinders. Then oil the pistons, rings, and cylinder bores generously with engine oil. Space the piston ring gaps equally around the piston.

oil returnlubricate the rocker pivots. The tappets are lubricated by ing from the rocker gear via the pushrods and is not under pressure. way Once oil has passed through the bearings and out it finds its own by gravity back to the sump.

eT

4

22 Flywheel - Removal

He

en

ee

eS

Se

1 The flywheel can be removed with the engine in the car but it is not recommended, and the following procedures prevail when the engine has been lifted out. 2 Remove the clutch assembly (Chapter 5). 3 Remove the five bolts from the centre of the flywheel. There are no washers. 4 Using a soft headed mallet tap the periphery of the flywheel progressively all round, gradually drawing it off the crankshaft flange and locating dowel. Do not allow it to assume a skew angle as the fit on the flange and dowel are at very close tolerances to maintain proper balance and concentricity with the crankshaft. When the flywheel is nearly off make sure it is well supported so that it does not drop. It is heavy.

\fthe filter gets blocked, oil will continue to flow because a bypass

valve will open, permitting oi! to circulate past the filter element. Similarly, any blockage in oilways (resulting in greatly increased pressure) will cause the oil pressure relief valve to operate, returning oil direct to the sump. 5 Oil pressure when hot is 50—60 Ibs/sq in at 3000 rpm. This pressure is measured after oil has passed through the filter. As the oil pressure warning light only comes on when the pressure is as low as 3-5 Ibs/sq in, it is most important that the filter element is regularly changed and the oil changed at the recommended intervals in order that the lubrication system remains clean.

6 Should the warning light ever come on when the engine is running at any speed above idling, stop at once and investigate - serious bearing and cylinder damage may otherwise result. 7 The crankcase is ventilated to prevent pressure building up from the action of the pistons, and also to ensure that oil, and sometimes fuel vapour,

tube

23 Oil Pump - Removal DR ee eee

ee

ee

flame

Se

1 Take off the clips which hold the distributor cap in place and turn the engine so that the distributor rotor arm points to the segment in the distributor cap which carries the lead to No 4 cylinder. At the same time ensure the timing cover TDC mark is in line with the mark on the crankshaft pulley wheel. 2 Remove the distributor (Chapter 4.6) and the sump (Section 14).

3 With a 7/16 AF spanner undo the three bolts which hold the

from

is carried

away.

These

engine fumes travel via a short

the left hand side of the rocker cover to a cylindrical in turn

trap, which

by a length of oil resistant

is connected

rubber hose to the air cleaner. In this way engine fumes are drawn through the air cleaner and are burnt together with the fuel air mixture during the normal combustion process.

i

26 Oil Filter - Removal and Replacement SR Ee a throw-away

ee

oil filter screws onto a sleeve on the

oil pump to the inside of the block.

1 The fullflow

24 Crankshaft and Main Bearings - Removal

threaded, feeds directly to the main oil gallery. 2 Grasp the body of the filter firmly and turn it anticlockwise off the

lower

front

right

hand

side

of the

block.

The

sleeve,

which

is

threaded sleeve. If the filter cannot be removed by hand (the rubber 1 With the engine removed

from

the car, remove

the sump,

oil

pump, timing chain and sprockets and flywheel. If the cylinder head is also removed so much the better as the engine can be stood firmly in an inverted position. 2 Remove the connecting rod bearing caps. This will already have been done if the pistons are removed. 3 Using a good quality socket wrench remove the two cap bolts from each of the five main bearing caps. 4 Lift off each cap carefully noting is position. 5 The bearing cap shells will probably come off with the caps, in which case they can be removed by pushing them round from the end opposite the notch and lifting them out. 6 Grip the crankshaft firmly at each end and lift it out. Put it somewhere safe where it cannot fall. Remove the shell bearings from the inner housings.

sealing ring tends to stick to the block joint face) unscrew with a 1 inch AF spanner. 3 Clean the joint face on the block, smear a little grease or oil on the rubber sealing ring in the filter and screw the filter into place until it just touches the cylinder block. Then turn the filter two thirds of a turn further only. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. 4 Top up the sump to compensate for the oil lost from the filter (approximately 1 pint), run the engine and check for oil leaks.

27 Engine Examination and Renovation - General With the engine stripped down as described in the preceding sections, all parts should be thoroughly cleaned in preparation for examination. Details of what to look for are described in the following sections, together with instructions regarding the necessary repairs or renewals.

25 Engine Lubrication System - Description 1 A forced feed system of lubrication is used with oil circulated to all the engine bearing surfaces under pressure by a pump which draws

28 Crankshaft - Examination and Renovation

oil from the sump under the crankcase. The oil is first pumped through a full flow oil filter (which means that all oil is passed through the filter. A bypass oil filter is one through which only part of the oil in circulation passes). 2 From the filter, oil flows into a main oil gallery - which is cast integrally into the cylinder block. From this gallery, oil is fed via oilways in the block to the crankshaft main bearings and then from the main bearings along oilways in the crankshaft to the connecting rod bearings. From the same gallery, oilways carry the oil to the camshaft bearings. 3 From the front camshaft bearing a further oilway passes oil to a gallery in the cylinder head. This gallery delivers oil through the hollow rocker shaft which contains a number of small holes to

1 Examine all the crankpins and main bearing journals for signs of scoring or scratches. If all surfaces are undamaged check next that all the bearing journals are round. This can be done with a micrometer or caliper gauge, taking readings across the diameter at 6 or 7 points for each journal. If you do not own or know how to use a micro-

meter, take the crankshaft to your local engineering works and ask them to ‘mike it up’ for you. 2 If the crankshaft is ridged or scored it must be reground. If the ovality does not exceed .002 inch on measurement, and there are

signs of scoring or scratching on the surfaces, regrinding may be necessary. It would be advisable to ask the advice of the engineering works to whom you would entrust the work of regrinding in such instances.

ty aS 13 We

=

af +

1 Inset - oil feed from rocker

Fig. 1.16. THE OIL CIRCULATION SYSTEM 5 Oil pressure warning light 8 Oil pump

shaft to pushrod 2 Inset - oil feed to chain automatic 3 Oil feed to rocker 4 Oil gallery

switch feed 9 Oil pressure relief valve-in 6 Fullflow oil filter pump 7 Oil feed groove in centre 10 Inset - oil feeding through camshaft bearing - to adjacent front camshaft journal from cams and tappets gallery (4) to rocker shaft

cup timing tensioner shaft

feed drilling (3) 11

Inset - oil feed to rocker shaft cut off by rotation of front camshaft journal

2 if!

yw!

Me WY) fe

Fig. 1.17. SECTIONED VIEW OF THE DISPOSABLE OIL FILTER 1 Filter bypass valve 2 Filter element

3 Anti-drain valve - diaphragm type

30

Chapter 1/Engine

29 Big End (Connecting Rod) Bearings and Main Bearings - Examination and Renovation 1 Big end bearing failure is normally indicated by a pronounced knocking from the crankcase and a slight drop in oil pressure. Main bearing failure is normally accompanied by vibration, which can be quite severe at high engine speeds, and a more significant drop in oil

pressure. 2 The shell bearing surfaces should be matt grey in colour with no sign of pitting or scoring. 3 Replacement shell bearings are supplied in a series of thicknesses dependent on the degree of regrinding that the crankshaft requires, which is done in multiples of .010 inch. So depending on how much it is necessary to grind off, so bearing shells are supplied as ‘.010 inch undersize’ and so on. The engineering works regrinding the crankshaft will normally supply the correct shells with the reground crank. 4 \Itis well worthwhile renewing big end bearings every 30,000 miles

as a matter of course and main bearings every 50,000 miles. This will

are being obtained it will be necessary to have the ridge ground away from the top of each cylinder bore. If specialist oi! control rings are being obtained from an independent supplier the ridge removal will not be necessary as the top rings will be stepped to provide the necessary Clearance. If the top ring of a new set is not stepped it will hit the ridge made by the former ring and break. 4 If new pistons are obtained the rings will be included, so it must be emphasised that the top ring be stepped if fitted to an un-reground

bore (or un-deridged bore). 5 The new rings should be placed in paragraph 2 and the gap checked. Any should be increased by filing one end of careful not to break the ring as they are

the bores as described in gaps which are too small the ring with a fine file. Be brittle (and expensive). On

no account make the gap less than specification. If the gap should close when under normal operating temperatures the ring will break. 6 The groove clearance of new rings in old pistons should be within the specified tolerances. If it is not enough, the rings could stick in the piston grooves causing loss of compression. The piston grooves in this case will need matching out to accept the new rings.

add many thousands of miles to the life of the engine before any regrinding of crankshafts is necessary. Make sure that bearing shells

renewed are standard reground.

dimensions

if the crankshaft

has not been

1 With the camshaft removed, examine the bearings for signs of obvious wear and pitting. If there are signs, then the three bearings will need renewal. This is not a common requirement and to have to do so is indicative of severe engine neglect at some time. As special

30 Cylinder Bores - Examination and Renovation 1 The bores must be checked

for ovality, scoring, scratching and

pitting. Starting from the top, look for a ridge where the top piston ring reaches the limit of its upward travel. The depth of this ridge will

give a good indication of the degree of wear and can be checked with the engine in the car and the cylinder head removed. Other indications are excessive oil consumption and a smoky exhaust. 2 Measure the bore diameter across the block and just below any ridge. This can be done with an internal micrometer or a Mercer gauge.

Compare

which

is not subject to wear.

this with the diameter of the bottom

ments

are

available,

If no micrometer

use a piston from

removed and measure the gap between

which

of the bore,

measuring

instru-

the rings have been

it and the cylinder wall with

a feeler gauge. 3 If the difference in bore diameters at top and bottom is .010 inch or more, then the cylinders need reboring. If less than .010 inch, then the fitting of new and special rings to the pistons can cure the trouble. 4 \f the cylinders have already been bored out to their maximum it is possible to have liners fitted. This situation will not often be encountered.

Se 31 Pistons and Rings - Examination and Renovation ee ee

32 Camshaft and Camshaft Bearings - Examination and Renovation

ee eee

1 Examine the pistons for signs of damage on the crown and around the top edge. If any of the piston rings have broken there could be quite noticeable damage to the grooves, in which case the piston must be renewed. Deep scores in the piston walls also call for renewal. If the cylinders are being rebored new oversize pistons and rings will be needed anyway. If the cylinders do not need reboring and the pistons are in good condition only the rings need to be checked. 2 To check the existing rings, place them in the cylinder bore and press each one down in turn to the bottom of the stroke. In this case a distance of 2% inches from the top of the cylinder will be satisfactory. Use an inverted piston to press them down square. With a feeler gauge measure the gap for each ring which should be as given in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. If the gap is too large, the rings will need renewal. 3 Check also that each ring gives a clearance in the piston groove according to Specifications (Fig 1.20). If the gap is too great, new

pistons and rings will be required if Chrysler spares are used. However, independent specialist producers of pistons and rings can normally

provide the rings required separately. If new Chrysler pistons and rings

removal and replacement tools are necessary to do this work properly itis recommended that it is done by a specialist. Check that the bearings are located properly so that the oilways from the bearing

housings are not obstructed. Each camshaft bearing shell has anotch in the front edge on the side away from the crankshaft, as a position indicator. 2 The camshaft itself should show no marks on either the bearing journals or the profiles. If it does, it should be renewed.

3 Examine the skew gear for signs of wear or damage. If this is badly worn it will mean renewing the camshaft. 4 The thrust plate (which also acts as the locating plate) should not be ridged or worn in any way. If it is, renew it.

ee eee 33. Timing Chain, Sprockets and Tensioner - Examination and Renovation EA er a ge rete Se 1

Examine the teeth of both sprockets for wear. Each tooth is the

shape of an inverted ‘V’ and if the driving (or driven) side is concave in shape, the tooth is worn and the sprocket should be replaced. The chain should also be replaced if the sprocket teeth are worn or if the tensioner adjustment is fully taken up. It is sensible practice to replace the chain anyway. 2 Examine the rubber slipper head of the tensioner for wear or score marks. If the head is worn more than .05 inch (1.3 mm), or any score marks are present, renew the head. It is quite normal to renew the slipper head when fitting a new chain.

— eee 34 Valves and Valve Seats - Examination and Renovation

———

SS

ee

a

eee

ae

1 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting, splits, and burning, especially the heads of the exhaust valves. The valve seatings should

be examined at the same time. If the pitting on valve and seat is very slight the marks can be removed by grinding the seats and valves together with coarse, and then fine, valve grinding paste. 2 Where bad pitting has occurred to the valve seats it will be

necessary to recut them and fit new valves. If the valve seats are so worn that they cannot be recut, then it will be necessary to fit new valve seat inserts. These latter two jobs should be entrusted to the local Chrysler agent or engineering works. In practice it is very seldom that the seats are so badly worn that they require renewal. Normally, it is the valve that is too badly worn for replacemen t, and

31

MMIII YW

1 Distributor offset drive slot 2 Oil pump driven gear 3 Three oil grooves feeding

Fig. 1.18. VIEW OF THE OIL PUMP AND OIL PRESSURE RELIEF 10 Oil pressure relief valve 5 Oil pump body

oil to gear (2) 4 Oil feed channel to cylinder block oil gallery

13

Oil inlet port from oil

14

Oil pump intake gauze filter

discharge hole - shown in

6 Four lobe rotor and pump shaft 7 Five lobe driven rotor

8 Oil pump base 9 Oil pressure relief valve spring

VALVE

this position for illustration only 11 12

Oil pressure relief valve piston Oil outlet port to oil pressure relief valve

pump intake filter

32

Chapter 1/Engine

the owner can easily purchase a new set of valves and match them to the seats by valve grinding. 3 Valve grinding is carried out as follows. Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste on the seat face and apply a suction grinder tool to the valve head. With a semi-rotary motion, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occarionally to redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface finish is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, then wipe off the paste and repeat the process with fine carborundum paste, lifting and turning the valve to redistribute the paste as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced, on both valve and valve seat faces, the grinding operation is completed. 4 Scrape away all carbon from the valve head and the valve stein. Carefully clean away every trace of grinding compound, taking great

care to leave none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean the valves and valve seats with a paraffin soaked rag then with a clean rag, and finally, if an air line is available, blow the valves, valve guides and valve ports clean.

1 Thoroughly

1 If the teeth of the flywheel starter ring are badly worn, or if some are missing then it will be necessary to remove the ring and fit a new one. 2 Split the ring with a cold chisel after making a cut with a hacksaw blade between two teeth. Take great care not to damage the flywheel during this process. 3 Check that the mating faces of the new ring and the flywheel are clean and free from burrs and heat the starter ring in an oven set at 428°F (220°C). Most domestic ovens can be heated to 500° to 550°F, so spark nicely to your wife as the starter ring must be left in the oven for 30 minutes. Do not exceed the recommended temperature or the temper of the ring will be lost, causing rapid wear. 4 Remove the heated ring from the oven with two pairs of pliers and fit the ring to the flywheel so that the gear teeth chamfers are towards the flywheel and clutch face side (see Fig 1.19). 5 Theringshould be tapped gently down onto its register and left to cool naturally when the contraction of the metal on cooling will ensure that it is a secure and permanent fit.

35 Rockers and Rocker Shaft - Examination and Renovation

carries

38 Flywheel Starter Ring - Examination and Renovation

clean out the rocker shaft bearing in mind that it

the oil which

lubricates

the rockers, valves, pushrods

and

39 Oil Pump - Examination and Renovation

tappets. Check that the oil holes in the shaft are quite clear. Check

the shaft for straightness by rolling it on the bench. unlikely

that

it will deviate

from

normal,

It is most

but, if it does, then a

judicious attempt must be made to straighten it. If this is not successful purchase a new shaft. The surface of the shaft should be free from any worn ridges caused by the rocker arms. If any wear is present (especially on the underside) renew the shaft. Wear is only likely to have occurred if the rocker shaft oil holes have become blocked.

1 If the oil pump is worn it is best to purchase an exchange reconditioned unit, as to rebuild the oil pump is a job that calls for

engineering shop facilities. 2 To check if the pump is still serviceable, first check if there is any slackness in the spindle bushes, and then remove the bottom cover held by three screws. 3 Allow the outer rotor ring to fall out, under its own weight but do

2 Check the rocker arms for wear of the rocker bushes, for wear at

not drop it as there is a possibility of it cracking.

the rocker arm face which bears on the valve stem, and for wear of the adjusting ball ended screws. Wear in the rocker arm bush can be checked by gripping the rocker arm tip and holding the rocker arm in place on the shaft, noting if there is any lateral rocker arm shake.

4 Clean all traces of oil from the mating faces of the rotors and pump, and then replace the outer rotor ring ensuring that its chamfered end is towards the gear end of the pump. 5 With a feeler gauge and straight edge check the clearance between the end faces of the inner and outer rotor rings and the pump body (see Fig 1.21). The permissible gap is between .001 inch (.025 mm)

If shake is present, and the arm is very loose on the shaft, remedial

action must be taken. 3 Check the tip of the rocker arm where it bears on the valve head for cracking or serious wear on the case hardening. If none is present re-use the rocker arm. Check the lower half of the ball on the end of the rocker arm adjusting screw. On high mileage engines wear on the ball and top of the pushrod is easily noted. Renew the adjusting screw and the pushrod if wear is uneven or the END of the adjusting screw ball is polished.

and .003 inch (.075 mm). 6 Check ‘with a feeler gauge the side clearance between the top of the inner and outer lobes as shown at ‘A’ in Fig 1.22. The permissible gap is between .001 inch (.025 mm) and .006 inch (.15 mm). 7 Then

check

the clearance between the inside of the pump

body

and the outside of the outer rotor as shown at ‘B’ in Fig 1.22. The permissible gap is between .005 inch (.125 mm) and .008 inch (.20 mm). 8 If any of the measurements taken are outside the permitted clearances then it will be necessary to fit a replacement pump.

36 Tappets - Examination and Renovation Examine the bearing surface of the tappets which lie on the camshaft. Any indentation in this surface or any cracks indicate serious wear and the tappets should be renewed. Thoroughly clean them out, removing all traces of sludge. It is most unlikely that the sides of the tappets will prove worn, but, if they are a very loose fit in their bores and can readily be rocked, they should be exchanged for new units. It is very unusual to find any wear in the tappets and any wear present is likely to occur only at very high mileages.

37 Connecting Rods - Examination and Renovation 1 Examine the mating faces of the big end caps to see if they have ever been filed in a mistaken attempt to take up wear. If so, the offending rods must be renewed. 2 Check the alignment of the rods visually, and if all is not well,

take the rods to your local Chrysler agent for checking on a special ig.

—

40 Cylinder Head - Decarbonisation

ee

eee

1 This can be carried out with the engine either in or out of the car. With the cylinder head off, carefully remove with a wire brush and blunt scraper all traces of carbon deposits from the combustion spaces and the ports. The valve head stems and valve guides should also be freed from any carbon deposits. Wash the combustion spaces and ports down with petrol and scrape the cylinder head surface free of any foreign matter with the side of a steel rule, or a similar article. 2 Clean the pistons and top of the cylinder bores. If the pistons are still in the block, then it is essential that great care is taken to ensure that no carbon gets into the cylinder bores as this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause damage to the piston and rings. To ensure this does not happen, first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are at the top of their bores. Stuff rag into the other two bores or seal them off with paper and masking tape. The waterways should also be covered with small pieces of masking tape to prevent

CHAMFER

Fig.

1.19.

The

chamfer on the flywheel towards the clutch face

ring

gear

must

be

Fig. 1.20.

Measuring

the piston

ring vertical

clearance in the

piston

\\

|AY NOY Sea \\ \\

iN)

Fig. 1.21. Checking rotor to end plate clearance which should be between .001 inch and .003 inch

Fig. 1.22. Checking the inner and outer rotor clearances ‘A’ should be between .001 inch and .006 inch and ‘B’ between .005 inch and .008 inch

34

Chapter 1/Engine

particles of carbon entering the cooling system and damaging the water pump. 3 There are two schools of thought as to how much carbon should be removed from the piston crown. One school recommends that a

ring of carbon should be left round the edge of the piston and on the cylinder bore wall as an aid to low oil consumption. Although this is probably true for early engines with worn bores, on later engines the thought of the second school can be applied ie that for effective decarbonisation all traces of carbon should be removed. 4 If all traces of carbon are to be removed, press a little grease into the gap between the cylinder walls and the two pistons which are to be worked on. With a blunt scraper carefully scrape away the carbon from the piston crown, taking great care not to scratch the aluminium. Also scrape away the carbon from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall. When all carbon has been removed, scrape away the grease which will now be contaminated with carbon particles, taking care

springs. Old springs can break so allowing a valve to drop which can cause considerable damage to the piston and bore. On lower mileage engines stand all the valve springs on a perfectly flat surface and renew any that are shorter than the others. 2 The four inlet valves are fitted with oil seals round their stems and these seals must be renewed whenever the cylinder head is overhauled or the valves removed (see Fig 1.23). 3 New oil seals are simply pushed into position so they locate over the top of the valve guide after the valve has been fitted. Ensure that the correct oil seal is used and that the clip is in place. Those for standard

oversize

stem

have

valves,

or valves with stems

plain exteriors.

.003 inch

Oil seals for valve stems

(.076

mm)

.015 inch

(.381 mm) or .030 inch (.762 mm) oversize have the numbers ‘15’ or ‘t+’ on their exterior top face.

not to press any into the bores. To assist prevention of carbon build-up the piston crown can be polished with a metal polish such

42 Engine Reassembly - General

as Brasso. Remove the rags or masking tape from the other two cylinders and turn the crankshaft so that the two pistons which were

1 To ensure maximum life with minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must everything be correctly assembled, but everything must be spotlessly clean, all the oilways must be clear, locking

at the bottom are now at the top. Place rag or masking tape in the cylinders which have been decarbonised and proceed as just described. 5 If a ring of carbon is going to be left round the piston then this can be helped by inserting an old piston ring into the top of the bore to rest on the piston and ensure that the carbon is not accidentally removed. Check that there are no particles of carbon in the cylinder bores. Decarbonising is now complete.

41 Valve Springs and Valve Renovation

Stem

Oil Seals - Examination

and

washers and spring washers must always be fitted where indicated and all bearing and other working surfaces must be thoroughly lubricated during assembly. 2 Before assembly begins renew any bolts or studs, if the threads of which are in any way damaged, and whenever possible use new spring washers. 3 Apart from your normal tools, a supply of clean rag, an oil can filled with engine oil (an empty plastic detergent bottle thoroughly cleaned and washed out, will invariably do just as well) a new supply of assorted spring washers, a set of new gaskets, and a torque spanner

should be collected together. The sequence of rebuilding the engine (Section 43 on) was found to be the most convenient and it is

1 If the engine has covered a high mileage and is being rebored and the crankshaft reground it is a false economy not to fit new valve

advised that this sequence is adhered to for convenience but it is not essential.

INLET VALVE STEM OIL SEAL AND CLIP

Fig. 1.23. The location of the oil seals and retaining clips on the inlet valves

43 Crank and Main Bearing - Replacement 1 Stand the engine upside dowm on a piece of clean paper. Ensure that the crankcase is thoroughly clean and that all the oilways are clear. Use compressed air or non-fluffy pipe cleaners to clear them out.

2 Clean the protective grease off the new main bearing shells by immersing them in hot water and wiping dry. Fit the five upper halves of the main bearing shells in place after wiping their locations in the crankcase clean. Ensure the lugs on the back of the

shells lie in the recesses

place.

forwards. 5 Fit the rear semicircular thrust washer with the grooves towards the rear of the crankshaft.

6 End float should be between .002 inch and .008 inch and is measured with a feeler gauge slipped between the thrust face of the rear thrust washer and the crankshaft flange with the crankshaft pushed rearwards. Fit oversize thrust washers if necessary.

7 Wipe the main bearing cap housing and fit the five lower shell bearings in their caps, ensuring that the right shell goes into the right cap if old shells are being used. Ensure the plain bearing is in the middle (No 3) cap.

8 Ensure the tags on the back of the shell bearings enter the notches in the bearing caps. Oil the crankshaft main bearing journals generously.

9 Note that the underside of the main bearing caps carries a cast number from 1 to 5. This is to ensure the caps are replaced in their correct locations with No 1 cap at the front of the engine.

10 To ensure that the bearing caps are fitted the right way round check that the tag on the back of the bearing in the block is adjacent to the tag on the back of the shell bearing in the bearing cap.

11 Fit all the main bearing caps in place except the rear cap. Fit new seals to the sides of the rear main bearing cap and then smear Hylomar jointing compound over the seals. Fit the rear main bearing cap but do not fully tighten it until the rear seal is in place.

12 Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to a torque of 52 lb ft, one cap at a time. After tightening each cap turn the crankshaft. If the crankshaft suddenly tightens up, remove and check the bearing and cap tightened last.

4 Two semicircular thrust washers located either side of the cylinder block half of the

crankshaft rear bearing control end float. Fit the semicircular thrust washer to the front of

the

journal

with

the

two

grooves

facing

in the block. Oil

generously. 3 Note that the centre main bearing shell has a plain surface whilst all the others are grooved. After ensuring that the crankshaft oilways are thoroughly clean lower it into

13 Check there are no imperfections on the periphery of the rear of the crankshaft, and then smear the circular oil seal and crankshaft rear end seal face with Castrol LM Grease.

14 Carefully fit the oil seal with its flat face facing outwards, tapping it gently into place with a soft faced hammer.

15 Continue tapping the seal until it is fully home and then tighten the rear main bearing cap bolts and washers to 52 Ib ft.

44 Pistons and Con Rods - Replacement 1 Turn the engine over onto its left hand side and wipe the connecting rod half of the big end bearing cap and the underside of the shell bearing clean. Fit the shell bearing in position with its locating tongue engaged with

the corresponding groove in the con rod. 2 Wipe the connecting rod bearing cap and shell and fit the shell in the same way as in paragraph 1. Note that the locating tongues must be adjacent to each other when the cap is fitted later.

3 The

and that the front of the piston is towards

5 With a wad of clean rag wipe the cylinder

the front of the engine. The caps should have been marked with centre punch dots during dismantling to assist with identification. 4 Position the piston rings so the gaps are

bores clean. Check

pistons,

complete

with

connecting

rods, are fitted to their bores from above. As each piston is inserted into its bore ensure

that it is the correct piston/connecting rod assembly for that particular bore and that the connecting rod is the right way round,

ae

that the correct piston/

6 Check that the front of the piston (which may

be marked

front, ‘F’, or with 2 letters

rod goes into the correct bore the right way

such as ‘LA’ or ‘CM’) is to the front of the

round by the dot which was centre punched

rod and cylinder bore.

on the base of the connecting rod cap.

spread evenly round the piston.

7 The pistons will only slide into the bore as far as the oil control ring. It is then necessary to compress the piston rings in a clamp.

8 If a proper clamp is not available then the rings can be compressed with the aid of a 3% inch diameter jubilee clip.

9 Holding the clamp or jubilee clip firmly against the block face, gently tap the piston into the cylinder bore with a soft faced hammer, or the wooden headed hammer.

handle

of a steel

45 Con Rod to Crankshaft - Reassembly 1 Generously lubricate the crankpin journals with

engine oil, and turn the crankshaft so

that the crankpin is in the most tageous position for the connecting

advanrod to

2 Then fit the connecting rod caps making

3 Tighten the big end nuts to a torque of

certain that the correct cap goes on the correct rod and that they are the right way round.

29 Ib ft. As each set of nuts is torqued down

be drawn onto it.

46 Camshaft - Replacement 1 Wipe the camshaft bearing journals and cams clean and oil them generously. Insert the camshaft into the crankcase gently.

47 Timing Gear - Replacement 1 Turn the crankshaft so that Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are at TDC and turn the camshaft so the dowel is at 11 o’clock (see Figs 1.10 and 1.11). Slip the chain over the gearwheels.

the camshaft gearwheel washer and bolt. 4 If not turn the camshaft slightly and try

again. When tightening down the camshaft gearwheel securing bolt the crankshaft can be prevented

from turning by a sturdy screw-

driver placed as shown.

rotate the crankshaft to ensure all is well. If the crankshaft suddenly locks up remove the last big end cap tightened down and examine for faults or incorrect fitting.

2 Feed the camshaft into the block until it is possible to slide into place the camshaft locating thrust plate. Check the camshaft end float- which should bé between .004 and .009 inch with a feeler gauge. Fit an oversize thrust plate if necessary.

3 Replace the two bolts and washers which hold the thrust plate in position and tighten down firmly.

2 Position the camshaft gearwheel so that

3 Re-engage the crankshaft gearwheel with the chain. If the gearwheels can now be replaced on the camshaft and crankshaft (a

it will fit correctly onto its dowel and then

disengage the crankshaft gearwheel from the chain and rotate it until the timing dots are adjacent and in line.

(Fig 1.11) first 5 To replace the tensioner release the tensioner from its locked down position by pressing the slipper head firmly against the tensioner body.

Woodruff key locates in the crankshaft gearwheel) and the timing marks are still adjacent and in line with the gearwheel centres, tighten

6 With the slipper head held in this position bolt the tensioner in place on the front of the block.

7 Finally release the slipper head, so that it can move out to tension the chain. Ensure it has moved out and is not in its locked down position.

48 Timing Cover and Oil Seal - Replacement 1 To renew the oil seal in the timing cover

2 Ensure the old seal is driven out squarely so as not to damage the seal housing.

first position two blocks of wood under the outside of the cover as close to the bore of the seal as possible. Drive out the old seal from inside the cover with a screwdriver.

Be

3 Turn the cover the other way round so it is the outside facing upwards and the inside resting on the wooden blocks. Fit a new oil seal so the circular coiled spring is towards the inside of the cover.

4 With a soft faced hammer or a hammer and a block of wood carefully tap the seal into place in its housing.

5 Using a small block of wood as a drift tap the seal until it is below the level of the housing and fully home. Clean the timing cover and block joint faces of all traces of the old gasket.

6 Fit a new gasket into position holding it in place with one or two small dabs of Hylomar.

7 Offer up the timing cover to the engine. Note that it may be a little difficult to get the cover on as the dowels are a tight fit.

8 Replace the bolts and washers which hold the cover in place noting that the longer of the two extra-long bolts is positioned in the top left water pump hole.

9 Tighten the bolts and washers. On engines in situ use Hylomar on the exposed part of

49 Oil Pump and Sump - Replacement 1 With No 4 cylinder at TDC on its firing stroke (the lobes on the camshaft for No 4 cylinder should be horizontal) clean the pump and block joint faces and refit the pump. Do not use a gasket or Hylomar.

2 As the skew gear on the top of the oil pump drive shaft engages with the skew gear

the sump gasket, then refit the sump screws, hoses, fan pulley/blades, and the dynamo.

on the camshaft it must turn from the position shown in photo 1 to that shown

above (see Fig 1.24) (page 43).

3 It is essential that the slot in the oil pump gear takes up the position shown as otherwise the distributor timing will be wrong. Tighten the three nuts and washers holding the pump in place.

‘aa!

4 Cleanup the mating surfaces of the crankcase and the sump and place the sump gasket in position.

5 Squirt oil over the timing chain, crankshaft and into the bores and then carefully lower the sump into place.

Sos

6 Replace all the setscrews and washers and tighten the sump down evenly.

50 Crank Pulley & Fiywheel - Replacement 1 Ensure that the crankshaft pulley journal is free from any damage and is smooth and polished where it runs in the seal. Any nicks or scratches in this area will cause rapid oil seal wear. Refit the pulley.

2 Screw in the pulley retaining bolt and washer but do not fully tighten. Note the dowel peg on the crankshaft which locates in a hole in the flywheel. Ensure the mating flanges are clean and offer up the flywheel.

3 Replace the flywheel bolts and tighten them up evenly in rotation so the flywheel goes on squarely. Screw in two of the clutch cover bolts as shown and place a strong screwdriver between them and the bench to prevent the engine turning when the flywheel

bolts are tightened to 40 Ib ft. 4 With the screwdriver still in place to prevent the crankshaft turning tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 52 Ib ft.

51 Tappets, Distributor and Fuel Pump Replacement 1 Turn the engine over so it stands on its sump. Wipe the tappets clean, oil them, and return them to the same bores from which they were removed. The open ends face

3 Turn the base of the distributor drive shaft so that the driving tongue engages with the slot in the top of the oil pump drive gear (see Fig 1.24) (page 43)

4 With the distributor in place insert and tighten the bolt and washer which hold the distributor to the block.

upwards.

2 Pull off the old rubber seal from the _ distributor housing and slip a new one into the seal groove. Wipe the housing and orifice in the block with a clean rag.

5 Clean the block and fuel pump mating flanges, fit a new gasket and offer up the pump to the block.

6 Insert and tighten up the two bolts and washers which hold the fuel pump in place.

7 If the fuel pump is being replaced with the engine in the car it is difficult to get at the right hand bolt without first removing the oil filter and the oil pressure sender unit.

8 The oil pressure warning light sender unit fits in a tapped hole between the oil filter and the fuel pump. Screw the unit into place.

52 Dipstick Tube and Dynamo - Replacement 1 Clean the base of the dipstick tube and press it into place in its hole in the side of the crankcase.

2 The tube is held at its upper end by a clip which locates over the left hand timing cover

3 Insert the bolt through theclip and tighten down the securing nut and washer.

4 The dynamo is held at three points. It swivels at the two inner points on the block and the fan belt is adjusted by means of the slot in the adjuster strap which is fixed to the remaining attachment point.

5 Insert and partially tighten the three bolts nuts and washers which hold the dynamo in position. Do not tighten fully at this stage as the fan belt has still to be fitted and adjusted.

53 Fan Blades, Pulley and Belt- Replacement

2

Ensure the four fixing holes in the blades,

3 Slip the fan belt into position and adjust

1

Offer up the fan blade pulley wheel and

pulley and flange are correctly lined up and

it to give 5/8 inch (16 mm) movement on its

the fan blades to the flange on the shaft on the front of the water pump.

fit and tighten up the four bolts and washers which hold the pulley and blades in place.

nuts.

bolt.

longest run. Tighten the dynamo fixing bolts/

54 Valves and Valve Springs - Replacement 1 Check that the valves, springs, ports and valve guides are clean and completely free from grinding paste and carbon dust. Fit reground valves to their original guides. Slip the oiled valve stems up the guides and fit

4

Place

the two

halves

of the split collar

(collets) into the valve stem groove with the narrow head.

ends

pointing

towards

the cylinder

way. 2 With a mole wrench screw in the two studs, one at either end of the left hand side of the block.

new oil seals on the inlet valves.

3 Place the screw head of the valve spring

2 The

compressor on the valve head and place the other end of the clamp over the cap and valve stem and screw up the clamp until the spring is compressed past the valve stem

coils at one end of the springs are

closer than at the other. Slip the springs close coil end first and then the collar and cap over the valve stems.

groove.

5 Release the clamp slowly and carefully, making certain that the collets are not dislodged. The top semicircular edges of the collets should now be in line with each other. This is how the cylinder head should look after decarbonisation.

3 With

the valves and springs reassembled

to the head, lubricate the cylinder bores and then lower the cylinder head into place.

55 Cylinder Head - Replacement 1 Examine the mating surfaces of the head and block to ensure they are perfectly clean and smooth.

Remove

any scores, grooves or

burrs with a fine file. Place the gasket in position on the block. It will only fit one

4 Replace all the cylinder head bolts, washers and nuts (for the two studs) and then with a torque wrench tighten them down % to %a turn at a time to a torque of 60 Ib ft in the

order shown in Fig 1.25 (page 43)

5

The

whole

point of the procedure

is to

keep the tightening stresses even over the whole head so that it goes down level and undistorted.

56 Pushrods ment

and

Rocker

Gear - Replace-

1 Lubricate the tappets and then fit the pushrods, mushroom shaped ends first into the same positions they were in originally.

2 Then fit the rocker shaft and rockers in place. Ensure that the ball ends on the rocker arms fit squarely into the cups on the top of the pushrods. Oil generously.

x 3 Tighten the rocker shaft pedestal bolts to

57 Rocker Arm/Valve Stem - Adjustment

4 cylinder rocker arms.

a torque of 17 Ib ft. A point to note is that the pedestal with the vertical rocker shaft oil hole must always be at the front of the engine.

1 All adjustments must be made with the engine either hot or cold and never with the

Specifications)

3 Holding the adjusting screw from turning, tighten the locknut. After adjusting both rocker clearances on No 4 cylinder turn the

crankshaft a half turn at a time for adjustment

to

both

valves

on

Nos

2, 1 and

3

engine half warm.

Turn

the crankshaft

so

that No 4 cylinder is at TDC on its compression stroke. Slacken the locknuts on No

2 Slip a feeler gauge of the correct size (see between

the rocker arm

pad

and valve stem and turn the adjusting screw until the feeler is firm but not tight.

58 Final Engine Reassembly

2

1 Lubricate sparingly with a little grease the spigot bearing in the crankshaft flange end recess. If a new bush bearing is fitted no grease is required.

5, Section 5) and then offer up the gearbox bellhousing to the rear of the engine.

Refit the clutch

(for details see Chapter

4 Slide the starter motor into place complete with its protective shield. Tighten the two nuts and washers which secure the starter motor to its bolts.

5 Fit the flywheel splash guard in place at the front of the bottom of the bellhousing,

7 Offer up the inlet and exhaust manifolds

8 Fit a new oil filter and complete engine reassembly by refitting the rocker cover using a new cork gasket. Secure the cover in

cylinders in that order (see Fig 1.26).

3 Insert and tighten down the nuts, bolts and washers which hold the bellhousing to

the rear of the engine. Check that the earth strap is on the top starter motor bolt.

6 Ensure the exhaust and inlet manifold mating faces are clean and smooth and free from all traces of old gasket and fit a new gasket in place.

to the block and

secure in place with nuts,

bolts and washers as described in Chapter 3.

tightening the small securing bolts firmly.

place with the six screws.

43

( Fig. 1.24. When the oil pump is fitted, the drive slots in the top of the gear to the oil pump must be in the position shown. The engine must be with No 4 piston at TDC on its firing stroke. The distributor timing will then be correct.

(See section 49.2)

LARGE

SEGMENT

on

Ls | a

COGONOe CC

Fig. 1.25. The cylinder head bolt and nut tightening sequence. Start at 1 and work out to 10, tightening the bolts and nuts to 60 Ib ft.

Ere

ae

(9

EX IN

|

as rn 4 Bae < eee: Nery

3

EXHAUST INLET

is

(2

REAR

Ly

=

3) 3)

>) =Q5 ~ X82 Nf. a

ZO

—o>« = om

.

A

aS

|

Ex .016 in

In 008in

Ex .016in

In .008in

Fig. 1.26. With No 4 cylinder on TDC and on its compression stroke (one of the rockers on No 1 cylinder will be just

Ex .016in

Valve No 8 iz

about to start going down) adjust the valve rocker clearances in the following sequence, turning the engine % a turn after

4 3

the two rockers on each cylinder have been adjusted. The inset shows the correct position for the rocker pedestals on the rocker shaft. :

2 1 6 5

Ex In .008in .016 in

In .008 in

Valve

Clearance

Exhaust

.016 inch

Inlet .008 inch Turn crankshaft % a turn

Exhaust Inlet

016 inch .008 inch

Turn crankshaft % a turn Exhaust .016 inch Inlet .008 inch Turn crankshaft % a turn Exhaust .016 inch Inlet .008 inch

Piston No 4 4

2 2 1 1 3 3

44 Chapter 1/Engine ee

59 Engine - Replacement Engine replacement is generally speaking a straight forward reversal of the removal sequence. The following hints and tips will however be found useful. 1 If the engine and gearbox have both been removed together it is best to replace them together. This will mean fitting the gearbox assembly to the engine on the bench and will make the mating of the gearbox input shaft to the clutch that much easier (see Chapter 6). It will also obviate the need to disconnect the propeller shaft which is necessary if the gearbox is removed and replaced separately from the

engine.

As the engine

is lowered

into the car the front of the

propeller shaft must be fed into the rear of the gearbox by lying underneath the car. 3 When the engine is being put back into the car make sure watched every inch of the way to ensure that no pipes or caught up or damaged. If, for any reason the engine will not

someone that it is wires get go where

you want it to, look and see why. Do not force anything. As soon as the engine is relocated on its forward mountings it must be supported at its rear end due to the fact that the gearbox is not yet installed. This can be done by placing a block of wood behind the cylinder head.

4 Ifthe engine is separated from the gearbox smear a little grease on the tip of the gearbox input shaft.

5 Always fit new oil and air cleaner elements after an overhaul. 6 The bonnet will need two pairs of hands to support it when refitting it. Fix the bracket bolts and nuts just tight enough to hold it and then close the bonnet to ensure it is correctly lined up and central, before tightening them. 7 The following final check list should ensure that the engine starts safely and with the minimum of delay: a) Fuel lines to pump and carburettor - connected and tightened.

b) Water hoses connected and clipped. c) Radiator and engine drain taps closed. d) Water system replenished. e) Sump drain plug fitted and tight. f) Oil in engine. g) Oil in gearbox and level plug tight. h) LT wires connected to distributor and coil. i) Spark plugs tight. j) Tappet clearances set correctly. k) HT leads connected securely to distributor, spark plugs and coil. 1) Rotor arm replaced in distributor and pushed fully home. m)Choke and throttle linkages connected. n) Braided earthing cable, engine to frame reconnected.

o) Starter motor lead connected. p) Fan belt fitted and correctly tensioned. q) Dynamo leads connected. r) Battery charged and leads connected to clean terminals.

wih (ae)

1 Oil cooler 2 Support bracket

Fig. 1.27. THE OIL COOLER 3 Intake hose

FITTED TO CERTAIN 4 Adaptor

!

MODELS 5 Return hose

Fault Finding Chart - Engine Symptom

Reason/s

Remedy

Engine will not turn over when starter switch is operated

Flat battery Bad battery connections Bad connections at solenoid

Check that battery is fully charged and

that all connections are clean and tight. switch

and/or starter motor Starter motor jammed

Turn the square headed end of the starter motor shaft with a spanner to

free it. Where a pre-engaged starter is fitted rock the car back and forth with a gear engaged. If this does not free

Starter motor defective

pinion remove starter. Bridge the main terminals of the solenoid switch with a piece of heavy duty cable in order to operate the starter. Remove and overhaul starter motor.

No spark at plugs

Check

Defective solenoid

Engine turns over normally but fails to

ignition

system

according

to

procedures given in Chapter 4. No fuel reaching engine

Check

fuel system

according

to pro-

cedures given in Chapter 3. Too much (flooding) Engine

starts

but

runs

unevenly

and

fuel

reaching

the

engine

Check

the fuel system as above.

Ignition and/or fuel system faults

Check the ignition and fuel systems as though the engine had failed to start.

Incorrect valve clearances Burnt out valves

Check and reset clearances. Remove cylinder head and examine and overhaul as necessary. Remove cylinder head and examine pistons and cylinder bores. Overhaul as

Blown cylinder head gasket Worn out piston rings Worn cylinder bores

necessary. Lack of power

Ignition and/or fuel system faults

Check the ignition and fuel systems for Correct ignition timing and carburettor settings.

Incorrect valve clearances Burnt out valves

Check and reset the clearances Remove cylinder head and examine

Blown cylinder head gasket Worn out piston rings

and overhaul as necessary.

Remove cylinder head and examine pistons and cylinder bores. Overhaul

Worn cylinder bores

as necessary. Excessive oil consumption

Excessive mechanical noise from engine

Oil leaks from crankshaft rear oil seal, timing cover gasket and oil seal, rocker cover gasket, oil filter gasket, sump gasket, sump plug washer Worn piston rings or cylinder bores resulting in oil being burnt by engine. Smoky exhaust is an indication. Worn valve guides and/or defective valve stem seals. Smoke blowing out from the rocker cover vents is an indication.

Identify source of leak and renew seal as appropriate.

Fit new rings or rebore cylinders and fit new pistons, depending on degree of wear. Remove cylinder heads and recondition valve stem bores and valves and seals as necessary.

Wrong valve to rocker clearances Worn crankshaft bearings Worn cylinders (piston slap) Slack or worn timing chain and

Adjust chain and/or inspect all timing

sprockets

mechanism.

Adjust valve clearances. Inspect and overhaul where necessary.

RS SS SS

NOTE:

When

investigating starting and uneven

running faults do not be tempted

SS

SES

into snap diagnosis. Start from the

beginning of the check procedure and follow it through. It will take less time in the long run. Poor performance from an engine in terms of power and economy is not normally diagnosed quickly. In any event the ignition and fuel systems must be checked first before assuming any further investigation needs to be made.

Chapter 2 Cooling system

nnn

ce

EEE

Contents

General Description ... ... Routine Maintenance Cooling System - Draiming

Radiator - Removal, Inspection, Cleaning and Replacement

Pe ae ... 1.6 see see cee

tee cee

tee

te

see

Thermostat - Removal, Testing and Replacement ... ... ... eee ++ : Water Pump - Removal and Replacement Fan Belt - Adjustment, Removal and Replacement Water Temperature Gauge - Fault Finding

tee ee

Cooling System - Flushing ... ... cs. cee tee cee cee tee cee tee tee ee Cooling System - Filling... ... .2. cee cee cee cee cee tee cee cee ate nee

ak0 —> -0 on™

aOnrWN

Antifreeze Mixture

nee aEEEEEEEEEESEES ESSE nnn Specifications

ikea Type of System Siaaesness Goolanticapacityae-see-ms-tic mae: Radiator filler cap opening pressure ANCE Coton ocr Cl TihermMostatty Pears ceomcewn casts silent ceed raseimos silovat fossiaivas) rae a

x SS

ih /

(|

ih

it

foe)

Fig. 2.1. COMPONENTS 1 Radiator 2 Pressure filler cap 3 Overflow tube

Fig. 2.2. Radiator drain tap

Radiator top hose Fan blades Thermostat out

OF THE COOLING SYSTEM 7 Heater hose bypass 8 Radiator bottom hose 9 Fan belt

A B

Heater flow hose Heater return hose

Fig. 2.3. Cylinder block drain tap

Chapter 2/Cooling System

48

4 Unscrew the radiator drain tap at the base of the radiator then when coolant ceases to flow into the receptacle, repeat operation by unscrewing the cylinder block tap located on the hand side of the engine. Retain the coolant for further use contains antifreeze.

and the left if it

a

4 Where the cooling system contains an antifreeze solution any topping up should be done with a solution made up in similar proportions to the original in order to avoid dilution. es

7 Radiator - Removal, Inspection, Cleaning and Replacement e ee a Ae i e (hs

1 Drain the cooling system as described in Section 3.

4 Cooling System - Flushing

1 The radiator and waterways in the engine after some time may become restricted or even blocked with scale or sediment which reduce the efficiency of the cooling system. When this condition occurs or the coolant appears rusty or dark in colour the system should be flushed. In severe cases reverse flushing may be requi.ed as described later. 2 Place the heater controls to the HOT position and unscrew fully the radiator and cylinder block drain taps. 3 Remove the radiator filler cap and place a hose in the filler neck. Allow water to run through the system until it-emerges from both drain taps quite clear in colour. Do not flush a hot engine with cold water.

2 3

Disconnect the top hose from the radiator header tank pipe. Disconnect the bottom hose from the radiator outlet pipe.

4 Unscrew and remove the four retaining bolts which secure the radiator to the front engine compartment mounting panel. 5 Lift out the radiator, taking care not to damage the cooling fins. Do not allow antifreeze solution to drop onto the bodywork during removal as damage may result. 6 Radiator repair is best left to a specialist but minor leaks may be tackled with Holts Radweld. 7 The radiator matrix may be cleared of flies by brushing with a soft brush or by hosing. 8 Flush the radiator as described in Section 4 according to its degree of contamination. Examine and renew any hoses or clips

4 \|n severe cases of contamination of the coolant or in the system, reverse flush by first removing the radiator cap and disconnecting

which have deteriorated. 9 Examine the plastic drain tap and its rubber washer, renewing

the lower radiator hose at the radiator outlet pipe. 5 Remove the top hose at the radiator connection end and remove

suspect.

if

the radiator as described in Section 7.

10 Replacement of the radiator is a reversal of the removal procedure. Refill and check for leaks as described in Section 5.

6 Invert the radiator and place a hose in the bottom outlet pipe. Continue flushing until clear water comes from the radiator top tank.

59595999

7 To flush the engine water jackets, remove the thermostat as described later in this Chapter and place a hose in the thermostat location until clear water runs from the water pump inlet. Cleaning

8 Thermostat - Removal, Testing and Replacement

by the use of chemical compounds is not recommended.

up. It will also affect the performance of the heater. 2 Drain off enough coolant through the radiator drain tap so that

5 Cooling System - Filling 1

Place the heater control to the HOT position.

2 Screw in the radiator drain tap finger tight only and close the cylinder block drain tap. 3 Pour coolant slowly into the radiator so that air can be expelled through the thermostat pin hole without being trapped in a waterway. 4 Fill to the correct level which is 1 inch below the radiator filler neck and replace the filler cap. 5 Run the engine, check for leaks and recheck the coolant level.

6 Antifreeze Mixture

1 The cooling system should be filled with Castrol antifreeze solution in early Autumn. The heater matrix and radiator bottom tank are particularly prone to freeze if antifreeze is not used in air temperatures below freezing. Modern antifreeze solutions of good quality will also prevent corrosion and rusting and they may be left in the system to advantage all year round, draining and refilling with fresh solution each year. 2 Before adding antifreeze to the system, check all hose connections and check the tightness of the cylinder head bolts as such solutions are searching. The cooling system should be drained and refilled with clean water as previously explained, before adding antifreeze. 3 The quantity of antifreeze which should be used for various levels of protection is given in the table below, expressed as a percentage of the system capacity.

Antifreeze volume

Protection to

Safe pump circulation

25% 30% 35%

—26°0C (—15°F) —339C (—28°F) —39°9C (—38°F)

—129€ (1@0F) —16°C (39°F) —20°C (—49F)

1 A faulty thermostat

can cause overheating or slow engine warm

the coolant level is below the thermostat housing joint face. A good indication that the correct level has been reached is when the cooling tubes are exposed when viewed through the radiator filler cap. 3 Unscrew and remove the two retaining bolts (4) (see Fig 2.4) and withdraw the thermostat cover sufficiently to permit the thermostat to be removed from its seat in the cylinder head. 4 To test whether the unit is serviceable, suspend the thermostat by a piece of string in a pan of water being heated. Using a thermometer, with reference to the opening and closing temperature in Specifications, its operation may be checked. The thermostat should be renewed if it is stuck open or closed or it fails to operate at the specified temperature. The operation of a thermostat is not instantaneous and sufficient time must be allowed for movement during testing. Never replace a faulty unit - leave it out if no replacement is available immediately. 5 Replacement of the thermostat is a reversal of the removal procedure. Ensure the mating faces of the housing are clean. Use a new gasket with jointing compound. The word TOP which appears on the thermostat face must be visible from above.

9 Water Pump - Removal and Replacement 1 The water pump comprises an impeller which is a press fit onto the pump spindle, a light alloy pump body, a pressure balanced seal, a fan hub which is a press fit on the bearing spindle. A sectional

view of the water pump is shown in Fig 2.5) 2 The water pump bearing is greased for life during assembly and requires no maintenance. Any leakage from the drain hole (7) will indicate the need for a replacement unit. 3 Dismantling or servicing the water pump

is not recommended. A factory exchange unit should be fitted as a replacement. 4 The water pump is located in a housing which is an integral part of the engine timing cover. An exploded view of the water pump and its location is shown in Fig 2.4)

5 Drain the radiator and cylinder block as described in Section 3. Slacken the generator or alternator mounting bolts as described in

1 Z ¢

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49

Chapter 2/Cooling System

50 Section 10.

6 Remove the four fan securing screws and withdraw the fan blades

and pulley together with fan belt. 7 Unscrew and remove the five bolts which hold the water pump to

the timing case. The two longer bolts are located in the lower holes. 8 Lift the pump from the timing case. The pump is located in

position by two dowels and may be tight on them. Do not hammer the pump body or attempt to prise the flange. 9 Before fitting a replacement pump ensure that the mating pump and timing case flanges are clean and free from burrs. It is essential to use a new gasket to provide the correct clearance between the pump impeller and the timing cover face. 10 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure.

E SS E ee 10 Fan Belt - Adjustment, Removal and Replacement

EEE

SS

EE

1 The tension of the fan belt is very important. If it is overtightened then the bearings in the water pump and generator or alternator may wear prematurely. If slack it will slip, causing overheating and a discharged battery through low generator or alternator output. 2 The fan belt is correctly tensioned when a total movement of 5/8 inch (16 mm) can be obtained at the middle of the longest run

of the belt. 3 Always adjust the fan belt with the engine cold.

in 4 Slacken the mounting bolts which secure the generator belt position (Fig 2.6) and move the generator until the correct n. tension is obtained. Retighten the securing bolts. Do not overtighte

—

i

11 Water Temperature Gauge - Fault Finding 1 Correct operation of the water temperature gauge is very important as the engine can otherwise overheat without it being observed. 2 The gauge is an electrically operated instrument comprising a transmitter unit (Fig 2.7) screwed into the front of the cylinder head and transmitting through a Lucar type connector and cable

to the dial mounted on the facia instrument panel. The instrument only operates when the ignition is switched on. 3 Where the water temperature gauge reads high - low intermittently, or not at all, then first check the security of the connecting cable between the transmitter unit and the gauge. 4 Disconnect the Lucar connector from the transmitter unit, switch

on the ignition when the gauge should read COLD. Now earth the cable to the engine block when the gauge needle should indicate HOT. This test proves the gauge to be functional and the fault must therefore lie in the cable or transmitter unit. Renew as appropriate.

5 If the fuel gauge shows signs of malfunction at the same time as the water temperature gauge then a fault in the voltage stabilizer may be the cause. Check the stabilizer as described in Chapter 10.

Fault Finding Chart - Cooling System errr oe eee

Symptom Overheating

Reason/s

Remedy

Low coolant level

Top up. Adjust tension (Section 10)

Slack fan belt Thermostat not operating Radiator pressure cap faulty

Renew. or

of

Renew

wrong type

Engine running too cool Loss of coolant

Defective water pump Cylinder head gasket blowing Radiator core clogged Radiator blocked Binding brakes Bottom hose or tank frozen Defective thermostat Faulty water temperature gauge Leaking radiator or hoses Cylinder head gasket leaking Leaking cylinder block core plugs Faulty radiator type fitted

filler cap

or

wrong

Renew

Fit new gasket. Clean. Reverse flush (Section 4) Adjust Drain and refill with antifreeze. Renew Renew

Renew or tighten. Renew gasket Renew Renew with correct

type.

51

ih Fig. 2.5. SECTIONAL VIEW OF THE WATER PUMP

geeror e q

5

|

tts

i

1 2 3 4 5

Impeller Pump body Seal Fan blade hub &6 Combined pump spindle and bearing

7 Drain hole 8 Thrower 9 Circlip Items 8 and 9 not fitted to early model pumps

\ cf )

Fig. 2.6. Generator mounting bolts A. Lubrication hole B.

Fig. 2.7. The water temperature gauge transmitter unit

Chapter 3 Fuel system and carburation Contents

General Description ... ... ... Routine Maintenance Air Filter -Removal, Servicing ‘and Replacement Fuel Pump - Removal Fuel Pump- Dismantling ,

Oe er Wie detate,

fel ee

Fuel Pump - Examination, Reassembhy ao eclacemonts

Stromberg 150 CDS Carburettor -Adjustment... ... ... 4... Stromberg 150 CDS Carburettor - Dismantling and Reassembly

eens oer eee

See tees

Stromberg 150 CDS (Single Carburettor) - Description

Stromberg 150 CDS (Twin Installation) -Adjustment... Crankcase, Emission ControliSystemincs) csuescmesaestnees Exhaust. Emissiom Gontroli systemuumerciercsmercmescitccsitae Evaporative Emission Control System ... oe. ee eee cee Fuel Tank -Removal and Replacement ... ... ... .2 cee — WN NOOR

... ... ...

8 9

10

cies ern eects tees tee cee vee 13 wee vee vee 14

Specifications Fuel Pump Make and type

AC mechanical

Delivery pressure ... .

2.75 to 4.25 Ib in2 (.19 to .29 kg cm2)

Carburettor Make and type

Stromberg 150 CDS

Slow running speed langle Carer euion 1250 and 1500

engine manual gearbox)

700/750 rpm

Twin carburettor 1500 engine manual Gecton! Single carburettor 1500 engine auto gearbox inD... ... ... 1... Twin carburettor 1500 engine auto gearbox inD ... ... ... 1. we Needle 1250 engine Needle 1500 engine high and oy compression single carburettor an ds Needle 1500 engine exhaust emission ncontrol)) Needle 1500 engine twin carburettor.. Spring 1250 and 1500 engine, single carburettor Spring 1500 engine, twin carburettor...

950/1050 rpm 600 rpm 600/650 rpm

6 AL 6 AG 6 AK 6 BC Red Blue

Fast idle speed adjustment 1250 and 1500 pacing an cam marked SA*

.040/.050 inch (1.02/1.27 mm)

Fast idle speed adjustment 1250 and 1500 eae with cam marked M *

.030/.040 inch (.76/1.02 mm)

Carburettor

Make and type

Slow running speed, manual gearbox Sess jeans teen, cast) Gack sastesstueeen Vere

Stromberg 150 CDSE (Exhaust Emission Control) 800 rpm

Slow running speed, auto gearbox inD

600 rpm

... 12...

cee cee cee cee ee

Needle B5 BD Spring Red Fast idle speed redicchnenta: .025/.035 inch (.63/.88 mm) * Adjustment measured between eosin:screwheed and edge of fast idle cam. Tightening torque Carburettor to manifold... ... ... 12 Ib ft (1.66 kgm) Fuel pump to crankcase... ... ... .. 10 Ib ft (1.38 kgm)

1 General Description The fuel system comprises a rear mounted 9 gallon (40.9 litre) fuel tank from which fuel is drawn by a camshaft operated pump

mounted on the right hand side of the crankcase. Fuel is pumped by this pump to either single or twin carburettors according to engine specification as detailed under Specifications. The single Stromberg carburettor may be one of two types, according to whether the car is fitted with exhaust emission control.

y

washers and bolts retaining ettor assembly carburfilter Air 5,6,7 to 4Filter casing

Ai,

Fig. 3.17. ADJUSTMENT POINTS FOR TWIN CARBURETTOR TUNING 1 Slow running speed adjustment screw 2 Air valve piston hydraulic damper 3 Depression chamber cover

4 Coupling clamping bolt 5 Jet adjustment 6 Fast idle speed adjustment screw 7 Air vlave piston lifting pin

Qj Fig. 3.18. LOCATION OF CARBURETTOR DIAPHRAGM

3 Diaphragm 5 Body

9 Air valve piston 29 Retaining ring

Chapter 3/Fuel System and Carburation

64 its stops.

9 Stromberg 150 CDS Carburettor - Dismantling and Reassembly 1 Diaphragm renewal may be carried out without removing the carburettor from the engine. 2 Remove the depression chamber cover and retaining screws and lift out the air valve piston complete with diaphragm (3) (Fig3.18)

and retaining ring (29). 3 Remove the retaining ring screws and ring. 4 Fit the new diaphragm, taking great care to ensure that the locating tag engages with the mating cut-out in the flange, as shown in the illustration. 5 Complete dismantling and cleaning can only be carried out after removal of the carburettor from the engine. Unscrew and remove the six screws holding the float chamber to the carburettor body and remove the float chamber by drawing it carefully down the jet bushing retaining screw. The O ring seal may make removal difficult but on no account use levers. 6 Remove the jet adjusting screw (17), the hydraulic damper and depression chamber cover. 7

Lift out the air valve piston, needle and diaphragm assembly.

each way from the previously set position and readjust each slow running screw to improve the overall idling conditions. 15 Proprietary balancing equipment or Colortune and plugs may be used to check the adjustments.

ee

2 eee

te Se eg

ee

11 Crankcase Emission Control System

eee ee

ees

The engine crankcase is ventilated by means of a rubber tube connection between the rocker cover and the air filter. A flame trap is interposed between the two components which requires regular servicing at 5000 mile (8000 km) intervals. 1 See Fig 3.21 slacken the retaining clip screw and pull off the rubber tube from both sides of the flame trap. 2 Soak and agitate the trap in paraffin (never fuel) and after draining, apply a tyre pump to dry the interior. 3 Check the bores of the rubber tubing and clean out any moisture before fitting the flame trap in its original position. The correct alignment of the W or S marks according to season on the air filter intake will ensure the minimum of condensation occurring in the flame trap and connecting pipes. EEE

8 Using a tyre pump blow air into the fuel feed hole (40) (Fig 3.9 ) and at the same time move the starter assembly over the whole range of its movement with its travel stop in the fully raised (extreme cold) position. 9 Clean the components of the carburettor in fuel or paraffin only. 10 Reassembly of the carburettor is a reversal of the dismantling procedure. Adjustments as described in Section 8 will have to be carried out after completion. An exploded view of the Stromberg 150 CDS carburettor is shown in Fig 3.16

12 Exhaust Emission Control System he ea ae

10 Stromberg 150 CDS (Twin Installation) - Adjustment

mixture

1, Slow running adjustment is similar to the instructions for single carburettors but the screws (1) (Fig 3.17) should be turned by an equal amount. 2 Synchronising twin carburettors should only be carried out after checking sparking plugs, points and valve clearances and the engine having reached operating temperature (not overheated under a closed bonnet). 3 Remove the air cleaner and both hydraulic dampers. 4 Remove both depression chamber covers and lift out the air valve pistons and return springs. 5 Remove both needles from the air valve pistons, check their type

conditions. It is operated by inlet manifold vacuum. The temperature controlled valve weakens the idling and light load mixture when the carburettor is hot. The -components of the system are shown in Fig 3.23. The control valve (4) operates by inlet manifold vacuum and when open it allows inlet vacuum to operate the throttle bypass valve and the ignition retard capsule (12). The distributor used with the Stromberg CDSE carburettor has a tandem capsule, this additional chamber retards the ignition timing twelve crankshaft degrees during over-run conditions. The combined operations of these additional components overcomes the pollution caused by the exhaust system on vehicles without this system during over-run conditions, where the slow running mixture is excessively diluted by exhaust gases which in turn

with details given in Specifications Section and refit as described for single carburettors in Section 9. 6 Refit the air valve pistons, return springs and depression chamber covers ensuring that the diaphragms are correctly located (Fig3.18 ). 7 Hold each air valve piston down (as described for single carburettors in Section 8) in turn, screw up the jet adjuster (5) (Fig3.17 ) until it makes contact with the air valve piston. 8 Check that each air valve piston falls freely, if not centralise the

jets as described in Section 8. 9 Refill the damper bores with oil and then screw each jet adjuster down exactly 2% turns. 10 Unscrew the fast idle speed adjustment screw (6) until it is well clear of the cam on the front carburettor. 11 Slacken the most accessible clamping bolt (4) on the carburettor throttle couplings. 12 Slacken

the slow running screws

(1) until they are well clear of

the throttle levers, then rotate each screw until a .002 inch feeler is just gripped between them and the throttle levers, with the throttle butterflies in the closed position. Now rotate each screw clockwise

by two turns. 13 Tighten the clamp bolt (4). 14 Start and run the engine until it regains normal operating temperature. If needed, adjust the jet adjusters not more than half a turn

ee

This system is fitted to meet the regulations in force in certain territories for very low emission of noxious gases from vehicle exhausts. A Stromberg type CDSE carburettor is fitted with this system and it differs from the model CDS as follows. The CDSE has a fixed non-adjustable jet (12) as shown in Fig 3.19 anda spring-loaded needle (13) which operates with the rise and fall of the air valve piston (14). A throttle bypass valve (6) (Fig 3.22) temperature controlled valve (13) and slow running mixture air control screw (9) are incorporated. The throttle bypass valve permits to

pass

the

closed

throttle

butterfly

during

over-run

causes incomplete combustion. In order to maintain the efficiency of the exhaust emission control

system servicing must be carried out regularly at 4000 and 8000 mile intervals.

1 At 4000 mile intervals check the idling speed, the ignition timing using a stroboscope and the time for the engine to decelerate from 2500 rpm to idling speed in neutral. Bring the engine to normal operating temperature and carry out the following checks in strict sequence. 2 Rich mixture is indicated by lumpiness during idling or by the emission of black smoke from the exhaust. Check that the starter box rich mixture control is fully off. Check for air bubbles in the fuel pump glass cover and rectify air leaks in fuel line or pump gaskets or unions if necessary.

3 Slight enrichment may be corrected by adjustment of the idle air adjustment screw (9) (Fig 3.22). Where this does not effect a correction remove the carburettor depression cover (noting lug is positioned furthest from the engine for exact replacement). 4 Lift out the air valve and needle assembly. Check that the spring bias is toward the inlet manifold, and that the needle shoulder is exactly level with the piston face as shown in Fig 3.20. Correct assembly of the needle allows it to lean 3° by spring loading towards

Ww

Fig. 3.19. SECTIONAL VIEW OF THE STROMBERG CDSE (EMISSION CONTROL) CARBURETTOR Air valve piston damper assembly Piston damper reservoir Vacuum advance connection Carburettor body Throttle Depression feed holes to 17 - one shown Float chamber

O sealing ring ONDIYMAMHAWNH— Fuel feed holes to jet 10 Twin float - one shown 11 Float needle valve seat

4 IS

12 Metering jet and feed tube 13 Metering needle - locating screw not shown 14 Air valve piston

5

15 Air valve piston return spring 16 Diaphragm 17 18

fannnnnnn

Depression chamber Depression chamber cover

(

ud

Fig. 3.20. CORRECT FITTING OF NEEDLE IN THE STROMBERG 150 CDSE CARBURETTOR 1 Diaphragm locating lug 6 Needle holder

Fig. 3.21. Location of the flame trap

2 Air valve piston 3 Needle holder retaining screw

7 Six inch steel rule - used to set needle position with

4 Metering needle

needle held square to

5 Bias spring - metering needle

piston face

Fig. 3.22. DETAILS OF THE TEMPERATURE CONTROLLED AND THROTTLE BYPASS VALVES FITTED TO THE STROMBERG CDSE CARBURETTOR 5 Gasket - bypass valve to carbur- 9 Slow running air adjustment 12 Bimetal spring

1 Vacuum advance connection

2 Blanking plug - do not

ettor body

screw - limited range

6 Throttle bypass valve 7 Rubber joint ring

10 Adjustment for temperature controlled valve spring

8 Temperature controlled valve

11

Rubber joint ring

13

Valve - operated by bi-

metal spring

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Fig. 3.23. THE COMPONENTS OF THE EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM FITTED IN CONJUNCTION WITH A STROMBERG 150 CDSE CARBURETTOR 1 Stromberg CDSE carburettor 2 Not shown in this illustration 3 Large bore connection pipe from inlet manifold to control valve

5 Small bore connection pipe from control valve to system 6 Not shown in this illustration 7 Small bore connection pipe to vacuum retard capsule

4 Control valve

8 Connection pipe from

carburettor to vacuum 12 advance capsule 9 Not shown in this illustration 13 10 Crankcase emission flame trap 11 Crankcase emission pipe from

flame trap to air filter

Vacuum advance and retard capsule Distributor

Chapter 3/Fuel System and Carburation

68

the inlet manifold. Do not overtighten the needle fixing screw. 5 Reassemble the carburettor and check that the air valve piston falls freely.

6 Should the mixture still be too rich, remove the plastic cover (2) shown in Fig 3.24 and gently feel that the temperature controlled valve (6) is free to move. With the engine at operating temperature the valve should not be seated. Any stickiness must be cleaned away after dismantling the valve assembly. When reassembling the valve, ensure that the letters stamped on the bi-metal spring are uppermost. Ensure the spring is not*bent or twisted. Set the adjusting

nut (4) so that at room temperature 70°F (21°C) the valve is just on its seat. To test, immerse the valve in hot water, the valve should open. Refit the valve to the carburettor and recheck idling. 7 Should the mixture still be too rich remove the carburettor from

the engine. Remove the float chamber cover, the float and needle valve and check the float level, all as described in Sections 8 and 9

for type CDS carburettors. With a tyre pump blow any dirt from the components. 8 Refit the carburettor but first check that the heat insulator and flange joint are correctly positioned as shown in Fig 3.25. 9 Should the mixture be too weak and misfiring occur, check the compression on individual cylinders for blown gaskets, air leaks at flange and manifold joints. 10 If the mixture is only slightly weak, a correction may be possible by turning screw (9) (Fig 3.22) in a clockwise direction until even running is obtained. 11 Dismantle the carburettor as previously described and clean components and examine the diaphragm for splits. Check the air valve piston for free movement. 12 Check the temperature controlled valve. If by pressing it home on its seat, an improvement in mixture strength is obtained, then service the assembly as previously described. 13 Check the fuel pump and lines for water, also the float chamber. 14 Check the ignition timing. The method of static setting is

19 Certain parts of the Stromberg type CDSE carburettor are not interchangeable or renewable and in the event of a fault or damage occurring to the following components, then an exchange carburettor must be obtained as a complete unit: jet, air valve piston, depression chamber cover, carburettor body.

SE TS 13 Evaporative Emission Control System ae MR eefake SS RE pes

eet

Fitted to vehicles which operate in certain territories where regulations forbid the venting of fuel systems to atmosphere. The layout of the system is illustrated in Fig 3.27 and comprises a fuel tank (1) without vent, a fuel tank inner chamber (2) to prevent overfilling, acarbon canister (7) to absorb (on the surface of the granules) the fuel vapour, a heating stove (9) to heat air for purging the carbon of fuel vapour and necessary hoses and connections. 1 Servicing consists of renewing the carbon canister every five years

or 50000 miles operation, whichever occurs first. 2 Check regularly for security of connections and replace any defective hoses. Ensure that the pipe (6) does not become flattened as this will cause a fuel stoppage to the engine due to the tank being fitted with a non-vented type filler cap. 3 Should the carbon canister become contaminated by flood water,

renew the unit immediately (one bolt).

14 Fuel Tank - Removal and Replacement (a) Vehicles not fitted with evaporative emission control

1 Disconnect and remove the battery earth (negative) lead. 2 See Fig 3.26 and remove the drain plug (2) and washer (3) from

suction retard capsule is not working. If the engine stays at 1500 -

the fuel tank and drain contents into a suitable receptacle. 3 Pull off the vent hose connector (30). 4 Disconnect the electrical leads (18) from the tank level unit. 5 Disconnect the fuel line (21) from the tank level unit. 6 Pull the filler neck tube (11) outwards from the rubber bush (13) which is located in the tank face. 7 Unscrew bolts (7) and nuts (10) and lower the fuel tank carefully. 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal but take care not to trap electrical leads as the tank is located in position. Never attempt to repair a

1700 rpm then the engine may have become too hot for testing purposes or the control valve may be faulty. Should the engine slow

specialist repairers or fit a new tank.

down in 2% seconds or less then the throttle bypass valve is not opening. Check the security of all hoses and the condition of rubber

(b) Vehicles fitted with evaporative emission control

described in Chapter 4 and this should be rechecked using a stroboscope with the engine at idling speed (automatic cars in ‘D’). 15 Check the time taken for the engine running at a constant 2500 rpm to drop to idling speed. Use a stop-watch and if the time taken is between 4 and 6 seconds, then the emission control system is working correctly. If the engine stays at about 2000 rpm then the

leaking tank by soldering, it can be very dangerous. Always consult

sealing rings (8 and 9) (Fig 3.24) and renew if necessary. 16 Provided

the operations

detailed

in paragraph

15

have

been

correctly performed then the fault may lie with the throttle bypass

valve (6) (Fig 3.22). Remove the three screws which retain it to the carburettor and remove it. 17 Withdraw the three countersunk screws which hold the valve base and cover together and separate the parts taking care not to lose the Spring, screw and O ring seal.

18 Drive out the brass sealing disc from the valve outer body and reassemble the valve. Adjust the valve adjuster screw as far as it will go in a clockwise direction and then back off one complete turn (normal setting). Recheck the time taken for the engine to drop from

2500 rpm to idling and if within the specified time limits, reseal the

valve with the brass sealing disc. If the drop is still outside the limits renew the valve.

1 Carry out operations 1 and 2 in Section 14.

2 Disconnect the outlet pipe (6) from the separator (3) (Fig 3.27). 3 Remove the three securing screws which retain the separator to the boot floor and draw it downward. 4 Disconnect the fuel pipe from the tank union and the electrical

leads from the tank level unit. 5 Pull the tank filler tube outwards from its rubber bush in the tank rear face.

6 Remove the two bolts and two nuts which retain the fuel tank in position and carefully lower it with its four flexible plastic pipes in Position. 7 See Fig 3.27 and disconnect the pipes (4, 5 and 6) from the separator. The fuel tank is now an independent unit and may be withdrawn.

69

“Oris. 3.25. Correct location of heat insulator and flange gasket fitted to a Stromberg CDSE single carburettor mounting flange

q

Fig. 3.24. COMPONENTS OF THE TEMPERATURE CONTROLLED VALVE FITTED TO THE STROMBERG 150 CDSE CARBURETTOR 1 Cover fixing screws 5 Bimetal spring plate 2 Plastic cover 6 Valve - operated by (5)

3 Fixing screw - bimetal spring plate

4 Adjusting nut - bimetal spring

7 Valve body

8 Rubber seating washer 9 Rubber seating washer

plate

13 1415

1 Tank

2 Plug 3 Washer 5 Buffer

6 Setscrew 7 Setscrew

8 Washer

Fig. 3.26. COMPONENTS OF THE EVAPORATIVE EMISSION 9 Washer 16 10 Nut 17 11 Filler 12 Grommet 13 Seal 14 Clip 15 Screw

FUEL TANK (NOT FOR CONTROL SYSTEM) Clip Cap

Gauge unit Seal

Ring - locking Pipe

Nut

23 28 29 30

Clive Pipe Grommet Connector

Fault Finding Chart - Fuel System and Carburation Trouble

Cause

Remedy

wi Ee SYMPTOM: EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION Renew element. Air filter choked

Carburation and ignition faults

Check and adjust level. Renew

faulty Mixture too rich

Adjust

Incorrect spark plug gaps Tyres under inflated Dragging brakes

SYMPTOM:

Renew or tighten as necessary.

Leakage from pump, carburettor or fuel lines or fuel tank Float chamber flooding Distributor capacitor faulty Distributor weights or vacuum capsule

Contact breaker gap too wide Incorrect valve clearances

INSUFFICIENT FUEL DELIVERY OR WEAK MIXTURE

Service or renew.

jet or refer to Section

CDSE type carburettors. Check and reset. Adjust. Adjust. Inflate. Check for air in system wheel or master cylinder.

12 for

or

faulty

Adjust jet or refer to Section CDSE type carburettors.

12 for

Fuel tank air vent or pipe blocked ar flattened Clogged pump filter Float chamber needle valve clogged

Clear obstruction.

Faulty fuel pump valves Fuel pump diaphragm split

Renew. Renew.

Fuel pipe unions loose Fuel filter bow! not seating correctly Inlet manifold gasket or carburettor flange gasket leaking Incorrect adjustment of jet or carbur-

Tighten. Renew gasket.

ettor

ae

Clean. Clear with air pressure.

Renew

as necessary.

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Chapter 4 Ignition system

en ee Contents

ro General Description ... Routine Maintenance hay (ehecsaen Spee Contact Breaker- Adjustment Contact Breaker Points- Removal and Replacement Bt Seti Ane ie Condenser (Capacitor) -Removal, Testing and Replacement tor and Replacement... ... 0... see cee tee cee eee - Removal Distribu

Distributor - Dismantling

Distributor - Inspection and Repair ... 1. cee eee ... ... cee cee cee cee cee Distributor -Reassembly

cee cee tee tee tee tee tee nee nee eee

8 9

ris ee pote. Ue Pet Aes Ignition Timing ... ... te ety Tae eee SU Ignition System - Fault Pinang UP or ... see eee cee ee cee tee nee tee 12 Ignition System - Fault Symptoms

Ane Coil Polarity ... ... Spark Plugs and fends. ra — WN NOOR

e hunt eet

ek meer eM

wearin, etic ta,

Ue:

a Specifications eel Spark Plugs Type: 1250 and 1500 engines with single carburettor ... ... 0... 1500 engine with twin carburettors Plug gap

«+

Champion NOY Champion N7Y

.025 inch (.63 mm)

Coil Type

Lucas 11012

Distributor Type

Lucas 25D4

Engine .. Si: Serial number . Vacuum advance unit number .

Ges, ees * With exhaust emission control Direction of rotation (viewed from above) ... Gontactibreaken Gapccnaccuccsmeriretiiessircere CECI EMG: cas cas Be oh GH Sn mS mo me

Ignition Timing Firing order ans Ignition advance control Ignition timing (nominal) static- 1250 Brine 1500 engine 1500 engine, Ignition timing, static at correct idling speed exhaust emissioniComtnol cay cccae-chiescu ces mees) Timing marks

1500 LC 41303 4—-14-8

sn 2

1500 LC * 41301 8—24—6

1500 HC ** 41304 5—11-—7

1250 41302 5—14—11

* Single, orrtwin carburettor Anticlockwise 10. 6. see see eee oes .015 inch (.38 mm) ices cstkescincscMaxeiinss 600 + 30 a oo co ae oF

a eC ec Becca HC ead Lc Ss eere twin carburettor 1500 engine, ween ete atecomes

liesin42 Automatic, centrifugal and vacuum 6 — 8° BTDC 6 — 8° BTDC 7 — 99 BTDC

79 BTDC Notches 5° apart on crankshaft pulley, moulded

line on timing chain

front cover.

The coil which acts as a transformer to step up the 12 volt battery voltage to many thousands of volts, sufficient to jump the spark

1 General Description

plug gaps.

The ignition system comprises the following components: The

battery

which

provides

when the engine is running.

The ignition/starter switch.

a current

of 2.3 amps

to the coil

The distributor which comprises, contact breaker, condenser, rotor arm, distributor cap with brush and centrifugal and vacuum advance and retard mechanism.

The spark plugs which are the medium to ignite the compressed

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Chapter 4/Ignition System

74 mixture in the combustion chambers.

Low and high tension wires connecting the various components as shown in the diagram Fig 4.1 When the ignition is switched on a current flows from the battery live terminal to the ignition switch through the coil primary winding to the moving contact breaker inside the distributor cap and to earth when the contact breaker points are in the closed position. The

period of points closure is the ‘dwell angle’ and during this period the current flows through the primary winding of the coil and magnetises the laminated iron core which in turn creates a magnetic field through the coil primary and secondary windings. Each time the points open due to the rotation of the distributor cam, the current flow through the primary winding of the coil is interrupted. This causes the induction of a very high voltage (25000

volts) in the coil secondary winding. This HT (high tension) current is distributed to the spark plugs in correct firing order sequence by the rotor arm and by means of the cap brush and HT leads. Acondenser is fitted inside the distributor and connected between the moving contact breaker and earth to prevent excessive arcing and pitting of the contact breaker points.

The actual point of ignition of the fuel/air mixture which occurs a few degrees before TDC is determined by correct static setting of the ignition timing as described in Section 10. The ignition is advanced to meet varying operating conditions by the centrifugal counterweights fitted in the base of the distributor body and by vacuum from the inlet manifold operating through a capsule linked to the movable distributor baseplate.

2 Routine Maintenance

1 Every 5000 miles (8000 km) remove the spark plugs, clean and check their gaps as described in Section 4. 2 At a similar interval check the ignition timing as described in Section

10. Examine, clean and adjust the contact breaker points as

described in Sections 3 and 4. 3 Check the security of all LT and HT leads and terminals and periodically wipe the distributor cover and the plug leads to remove oil, grease and dirt which might cause tracking. 4 Every 2500 miles (4000 km) remove the distributor rotor and apply two or three drops of engine oil to the exposed screw head. Apply a smear of petroleum jelly to the highest points of the distri-

butor cam.

Inject a little oil through the holes in the distributor

baseplate.

8 If the gap is incorrect, adjust the fixed contact by loosening the screw (11) (Fig 4.2) and levering the contact by use of the screwdriver cut-outs (16). 9 When the gap is correct, tighten the screw (11), replace the rotor, distributor cap and plug leads to the correct spark plugs and check that the ring spanner has been removed from the crankshaft pulley.

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4 Contact Breaker Points - Removal and Replacement

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1 Carry out operations 1 to 4 described in the previous section. 2 With Lucas Quikafit type contacts, refer to Fig 4.2, illustration

B and remove nut (17), LT lead (8) and lead (9). 3 Remove screw (11) with washer and lift off the complete contact assembly as one unit. 4 With the more conventional separate type contact sets, refer to Fig 4.2 , illustration A and remove nut (7), the shouldered insulator (6), LT lead (8), lead (9) from the end of the contact breaker spring (10). Lift off the movable contact (5) leaving the insulating washer (12) in position. Remove the screw (11) and washer and lift off the fixed contact (2) and insulating washer (4). 5 Examine the points. After a period of operation, one contact face should have a pip and the other a crater caused by arcing. This is a normal condition which should be removed by dressing the faces squarely on an oilstone. This is not possible in the case of Quikafit contacts and a strip of emery paper drawn between them must suffice to remove as much arcing deterioration as possible. 6 Excessive pitting of the contact points may be caused by operation with an incorrect gap, the voltage regulator setting too high, faulty or wrong type of condenser or coil fitted, poor earth connections to condenser, distributor baseplate or battery. 7 Where contact breaker points are so badly worn or the pitting so deep that excessive rubbing would be required to eliminate it, then they should be renewed. 8 Refitting (Quikafit type). Refer to Fig 4.2 illustration B and place the contact set in position on the pivot post (3). Refit the screw (11) and washer and tighten just sufficiently to prevent the assembly from moving. 9 Remove the nut (17) from the plastic terminal and place leads (9) and (8) in position on top of the looped end of the movable contact spring. 10 Refit the nut (17) and screw up finger tight plus a further half turn only or the thread may strip. Adjust the gap as described in Section 3. 11 Refitting (separate contact type). Refer to Fig 4.2, illustration A and place the fixed contact plate (2) in position over the movable

contact pivot (3) and secure lightly with fixing screw (11). 12 Place insulating washers (4 and 12) on the base of the moving 3 Contact Breaker - Adjustment

contact

pivot

(3) and onto the terminal

pillar (13) on which the

movable contact spring end (10) is secured. 1 Pull off the HT leads from the spark plugs, first marking them 1, 2, 3 with adhesive tape. 2 Spring back the distributor cover securing clips and withdraw the cover leaving the HT lead to the coil in position. 3 Lift the rotor arm (1) (Fig 4.4) from its spindle. 4 Clean

the

inside

of the distributor

cap with

a dry non-fluffy

rag and examine the centre brush for wear and resiliance. Renew if necessary. 5 Apply a 15/16 in AF or % in Whit ring spanner to the nut on the front of the crankshaft pulley and rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the fibre heel (plastic with Quikafit set, see Section 4) is squarely located on one of the high points of the cam. Removal of spark plugs will ease engine rotation. 6 Examine the faces of the now open contact points and if they are pitted or burned then they must be removed and dressed as

described in the next section. 7

Assuming the points to be in good order, then check the gap by

inserting a feeler gauge of .015 inch (.38 mm) thickness. Inserted in an upright position, the gap is correct when the feeler just falls by its own weight.

13 Place the movable contact (5) and spring into position. Thread eyelets (8 and 10) of the two LT leads onto the shouldered insulator

(6). Insert this insulator (6) into the eye (10) of the contact spring and over the terminal pillar (13).

14 Refit and tighten nut (7), adjust the gap as described in Section 3. 15 With all types of contact breaker points, wash the contact faces in fuel before fitting. Place one or two drops of oil down the pivot posts and on the cam centre screw. Smear petroleum jelly on the

high points of the cam, refit the rotor, distributor cap and reconnect the spark plug leads.

5 Condenser (Capacitor) - Removal, Testing and Replacement

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2

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1 The condenser (1) (Fig. 4.2) ensures that with the contact breaker points open, the sparking between them is not excessive to cause severe pitting. The condenser is fitted in parallel and its failure will automatically cause failure of the ignition system as the points will be prevented from interrupting the low tension circuit. 2 Testing for an unserviceable condenser may be effected by

Fig. 4.2 (b) Contact Breaker Assembly (Quikafit)

1 2 3 4 5

Capacitor Fixed contact plate Movable contact pivot Insulating washer Movable contact

6 7 8 9 10

Fig. 4.2. KEY TO COMPONENT NUMBERS Shouldered insulator 11 Screw and washer Nut 12 Insulating washer LT lead 13 Terminal pillar Condenser lead 14 CB plate fixing screw CB spring 15 CB earth lead

16 Contact gap adjustment 17

slots for screwdriver Nut

Chapter 4/Ignition System 76 Rea et s switching on the ignition and separating the contact points by hand. If this action is accompanied by a blue flash then condenser failure is indicated. Difficult starting, missing of the engine after several miles running or badly pitted points are other indications of a faulty condenser. 3 The surest test is by substitution of a new unit.

4 Removal of the condenser is by means of withdrawing the screw which retains it to the distributor baseplate (Fig 4.2) and detaching the lead (9). Replacement is a reversal of this procedure.

6 Distributor - Removal and Replacement 1 To remove the distributor complete with cap from the engine, begin by pulling the plug lead terminals off the four spark plugs. Free the HT lead from the centre of the coil to the centre of the distributor by undoing the lead retaining cap from the coil. 2 Pull off the rubber pipe holding the vacuum tube to the distributor vacuum advance and retard takeoff pipe. 3 Disconnect the low tension wire from the coil. 4 Undo and remove the bolt which holds the distributor clamp plate to the crankcase and lift out the distributor. 5 Note: If it is not wished to disturb the timing then under no circumstances should the clamp pinch bolt, which secures the distributor in its relative position in the clamp, be loosened. Providing the distributor is removed without the clamp being loosened from the distributor body, the timing will not be lost. 6 Replacement is a reversal of the above process. 7 The distributor is driven by offset slots in the top end of the oil pump driven gear and correct replacement of the distributor in the crankcase is assured by the mating of the small and large segments of the driveshaft.

7 Distributor - Dismantling 1 Detach the spark plug leads and remove the distributor cap and withdraw the rotor. Withdraw the distributor as described in Section 6. 2 Refer to Fig 4.3 and remove the two securing screws from the baseplate (4) and after pulling off the Lucar connector attached to the LT wire, the contact breaker assembly, complete with external LT terminal, can be withdrawn.

3 Remove

the circlip from the end of the micrometer screw (10)

and rotate the nut until the screw and the vacuum unit assembly are

freed. Carefully retain the ratchet and coil springs located under the micrometer nut. 4 Withdraw the distributor shaft assembly complete with centrifugal timing control and cam foot from the distributor body: after having first removed the dog securing pin (8). 5 The centrifugal timing control mechanism should be dismantled as follows. Carefully lift off the springs from the counterweights, withdraw the screw from inside the cam and withdraw the cam and cam foot. Lift off the counterweights noting the distance collar which is fitted to the shaft beneath the baseplate.

8 Distributor - Inspection and Repair 1 The distributor having now been dismantled into its components, carefully examine the parts for wear and damage and renew as

appropriate. 2 Check the number stamped on the distributor body just below the vernier control and ensure that it corresponds with the distributor

type specification in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. In the event of the wrong type of unit having been fitted, obtain a replacement distributor. 3 The most likely component requiring renewal will be the bearing bush (7). This is of sintered-copper and a replacement should be

soaked in clean engine oil for at least 24 hours before fitting.

4 Usinga suitable shouldered mandrel press out the worn bush from the distributor body tapered end. 5 Insert the new bearing bush from the drive end with the smaller diameter leading. The new bush should be a push fit until the larger diameter starts to enter the distributor body, when a vice will be required. Use jaw protectors and note that the bush is correctly fitted when it is flush with the shank at the drive end and slightly protruding at the top end. It must be a tight fit in the distributor body. 6 Compare

the worn

bush

for the shaft drain hole location

and

drill the new one in similar manner, removing all metal filings. 7 Insert the drive shaft, continually and generously lubricating the new bearing bush in the process. Ensure the shaft does not bind in its bearing. Should it do so, withdraw the shaft and tap the bearing lightly at the drive end. Repeat until the tightness disappears. Never attempt to bore or ream the bearing bush.

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9 Distributor - Reassembly

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1 Refer to Fig :4.3 and place the distance collar (11) over the drive shaft. Smear the shaft with clean engine oil and insert it into the bearing bush. Refit the thrust washer (9) and driving dog and pin (8). 2 Refit the vacuum unit (6) onto its housing and fit the spring, milled nut and circlip.

3 Reassemble the centrifugal counterweights, the cam and the cam foot to the drive shaft and secure with the retaining screw. Engage the springs with the pillars. 4 Refit the contact breaker baseplate into the distributor body, complete with contacts. Engage the link from the vacuum unit and secure the baseplate with its two retaining screws, noting that one screw secures the contact breaker earthing cable, this screw should be really tight. 5 Refit the condenser and slide the terminal block into position. 6 Check the contact breaker gap as described in Section 3. 7 Insert the distributor assembly into its location in the crankcase

as described in Section 6.

10 Ignition Timing Engines are very sensitive to ignition timing. Incorrect timing can cause rough running, poor idling and performance and excessive fuel consumption. Before checking ignition timing, ensure that the contact breaker gap is-correctly set. If the gap is only reduced by .004 inch (.10 mm) then the ignition is retarded by the equivalent of 29 of crankshaft movement of half a division on the vernier scale. Two means of adjusting the ignition are provided, a clamp located just below the distributor body which allows coarse adjustment when slackened and a vernier control for fine adjustment to compensate for different fuels. One division of the vernier scale is equal to four degrees of crankshaft rotation. A and R cast on the distributor body indicate the correct direction of rotation of the vernier milled nut to either advance or retard the point of ignition, see Fig 4.4 The timing marks on the crankshaft pulley consist of thirteen vee notches spaced at 5° intervals between the point of each vee and the next as shown in Fig 4.4. When the engine is rotated in its direction of operation then with the last of the crankshaft pulley timing marks opposite the pointer on the timing chain cover, numbers 1 and 4 cylinders will be at TDC (top dead centre). 1 To check the ignition timing by static method remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine (by using a 19/16 in AF or % inWhit ring spanner applied to the nut in the centre of the crankshaft pulley) until the notch on the crankshaft pulley which represents the correct number of degrees BTDC (before top dead centre) is opposite the

pointer on the timing chain case. During rotation ensure that number 1 piston is at TDC by placing a finger over the spark plug hole to feel compression stroke, not exhaust stroke. The required number of

degrees

BTDC

is listed in the Specifications Section according to

¥

NY

N

Lo

A

Fig. 4.3. EXPLODED

VIEW OF THE

nit

DISTRIBUTOR

(Fig. on lower left is the Quikafit Assembly) 1 Rotor arm 2 LT terminal 3 Fixed contact plate securing screw 4 Contact breaker baseplate 5 Centrifugal advance control weights and mechanism 6 Vacuum advance control unit

7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Bearing bush Driving dog and pin Thrust washer Vernier adjustment nut Distance collar Baseplate Cam Contact breaker moving plate

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

Contacts Condenser CB earth connector Contact breaker lever Insulating washer Fixed contact plate Contact breaker pivot post Nut

23 Shouldered insulator 24 Movable contact point spring 25 Insulating washer 26 Terminal pillar 27 Quikafit contact breaker point assembly

Chapter 4/Ignition System

78 engine capacity and type. 2 Set the vernier control

worked

to

its midway

position

so

that two

divisions are visible. 3 Remove the distributor cap and connect a 12 volt bulb between the LT terminal of the distributor and earth (the distributor body). Switch on the ignition and adjust the vernier control until the bulb just lights, indicating that the contact breaker points are just opening. Make sure that the rotor is fully returned from its direction of

rotation before testing. 4 Should the foregoing within

the scope

adjustment

of travel

not be possible to carry out

of the vernier

scale, then

loosen

the

distributor clamp bolt and rotate the distributor body until the desired position is obtained with the contact points just opening, retighten the clamp pinch bolt and repeat the operations in paragraph 3: 5 Check the setting by rotating the engine one complete revolution until the bulb just lights and check that the crankshaft pulley and timing case marks are correctly aligned. 5 Switch off the ignition, remove the test bulb and ring spanner from the crankshaft pulley bolt, refit the distributor cap, spark plugs and leads.

6 To check the ignition timing using a stroboscopic light; the crankshaft pulley will appear to be stationary when the engine is running. Each flash of the stroboscopic light indicates that number one cylinder has fired. First paint the timing chain case pointer and the appropriate (see Specifications Section) timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with white paint. 7 Disconnect the vacuum tube from the distributor. 8 Start the engine and by rotating the slow running screw adjust the engine speed to 1000 rpm. The use of a reliable tachometer is needed for accurate engine speed setting which is approximately twice the recommended idling speed. 9 Project the stroboscopic light onto the pointer on the timing chain case when the mark on the crankshaft pulley should appear stationary and in alignment with the timing chain case pointer. Any variance may be removed by rotating the distributor body or vernier adjustment according to the amount of misalignment. 10 A useful check on the correct operation of the vacuum advance mechanism may be made by replacing the vacuum pipe to the distri-

butor and still using the stroboscopic light as for timing checking, increase the speed of the engine. The timing marks should now move out of alignment and the distance between them increase as the engine speed increases. This indicates correct operation of the vacuum advance mechanism. No movement between the timing marks indicates either a break in the vacuum tube or an unserviceable capsule in the vacuum advance mechanism. Renew as appropriate.

11 Ignition System - Fault Finding

loose, even if they look and feel secure. If one of the battery

terminal posts gets very hot when trying to work the starter motor this is a sure indication of a faulty connection to that terminal. 2 One of the commonest reasons for bad starting is wet or damp spark plug leads and distributor. Remove the distributor cap. If condensation is visible internally, dry the cap with a rag and also wipe over the leads. Replace the cap. 3 If the engine still fails to start, check that current is reaching the

plugs, by disconnecting each plug lead in turn at the spark plug end, and hold the end of the cable about 3/16th inch away from the cylinder block. Spin the engine on the starter motor. 4 Sparking between the end of the cable and the block should be fairly strong with a regular blue spark. (Hold the lead with rubber to avoid electric shocks). If current is reaching the plugs, then remove them and clean and regap them to .025 inch. The engine should now start.

5

If there is no spark at the plug leads take off the HT lead from

the centre of the distributor cap and hold it to the block as before.

Spin the engine on the starter once more. A rapid succession of blue sparks between the end of the lead and the block indicate that the coil is in order and that the distributor cap is cracked, the rotor arm faulty, or the carbon brush in the top of the distributor cap is not

making good contact with the spring on the rotor arm. Possibly the points are in bad condition. Clean and reset them as described in this Chapter. 6 If there are no sparks from the end of the lead from the coil, check

the connections

at the coil end of the lead. If it is in order start

checking the low tension circuit. 7 Use a 12v voltmeter or a 12 v bulb and two lengths of wire. With the

ignition

switch

on and the points open

test between

the low

tension wire to the coil (it is marked SW or +) and earth. No reading indicates a break in the supply from the ignition switch. Check the connections at the switch to see if any are loose. Refit them and the

engine should run. A reading shows a faulty coil or condenser, or broken lead between the coil and the distributor. 8 Take the condenser wire off the points assembly and with the points open, test between the moving point and earth. If there now is a reading, then the fault is in the condenser. Fit a new one and the fault is cleared. 9 With no reading from the moving point to earth, take a reading between earth and the CB or — terminal of the coil. A reading here shows a broken wire which will need to be replaced between the coil and distributor. No reading confirms that the coil has failed and must be replaced, to refit the is sufficient testing with

after which the engine will run once more. Remember condenser wire to the points assembly. For these tests it to separate the points with a piece of dry paper while the points open.

Failures of the ignition system will either be due to faults in the HT or LT circuits. Initial checks should be made by observing the

Engine Misfires 10 If the engine misfires regularly run it at a fast idling speed. Pull off each of the plug caps in turn and listen to the note of the engine. Hold the plug cap in a dry cloth or with a rubber glove as additional

security

protection against a shock from the HT supply.

of

spark

plug terminals,

Lucar

type

terminals,

coil and

battery connection. More detailed investigation and the explanation and remedial action in respect of symptoms of ignition malfunction are described in the next section.

1 If the engine fails to start and the car was running normally when it was last used, first check there is fuel in the petrol tank. If the

11 No difference in engine running will be noticed when the lead from the defective circuit is removed. Removing the lead from one of the good cylinders will accentuate the misfire. 12 Remove the plug lead from the end of the defective plug and hold it about 3/16th inch away from the block. Restart the engine. If the sparking is fairly strong and regular the fault must lie in the spark plug. 13 The plug may be loose, the insulation may be cracked, or the points may have burnt away giving too wide a gap for the spark to jump. Worse still, one of the points may have broken off. Either

engine turns over normally on the starter motor and the battery is

renew the plug, or clean it, reset the gap, and then test it.

evidently well charged, then the fault may be in either the high or

14 If there is no spark at the end of the plug lead, or if it is weak and intermittent, check the ignition lead from the distributor to the

12 Ignition System - Fault Symptoms

Engine Fails to Start

low tension circuits. First check the HT circuit. Note: If the battery is known to be fully charged; the ignition light comes on, and the starter motor fails to turn the engine check the tightness of the leads on the battery terminals and also the secureness of the earth lead to its connection to the body. It is quite common

for the leads to have

plug. If the insulation is cracked or perished, renew the lead. Check the connections at the distributor cap. 15 If there is still no spark, examine the distributor cap carefully for tracking. This can be recognised by a very thin black line running

BOON

Fig. 4.4. Checking static ignition setting with test bulb in position. Insets show vernier scale and crankshaft pulley details.

Fig. 4.5. AMETHOD OF CHECKING COIL HT POLARITY A Spark form with correct HT polarity

B Spark form with incorrect HT polarity

80

Chapter 4/Ignition System *

between two or more electrodes, or between an electrode and some other part of the distributor. These lines are paths which now conduct electricity across the cap thus letting it run to earth. The only answer is a new distributor cap.

16 Apart from the ignition timing being incorrect, other causes of misfiring have already been dealt with under the section dealing with the failure of the engine to start. To recap - these are that: a) The coil may be faulty giving an intermittent misfire b) There may be a damaged wire or loose connection tension circuit c) The condenser may be short circuiting

in the low

d) There may be a mechanical fault in the distributor driving spindle or contact breaker spring)

(broken

17 If the ignition timing is too far retarded, it should be noted that the engine will tend to overheat, and there will be a quite noticeable drop in power. If the engine is overheating and the power is down, and the ignition timing is correct, then the carburettor should be checked, as it is likely that this is where the fault lies.

13 Coil Polarity 1 High tension current should be negative at the spark plug terminals. If the HT current is positive at the spark plug terminals then the LT leads to the coil primary terminals have been incorrectly connected. 2 Such a wrong connection can cause as much as 60 per cent loss of spark efficiency and cause rough idling and misfiring at speed. 3 By carrying out the test shown in Fig.4.5 with the use of a lead pencil, the correct polarity of the coil can be established by the position of the spark.

14 Spark Plugs and Leads

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct

running and efficiency of the engine. The plugs fitted as standard are listed in the specification page. 2 Atintervals of 5000 miles the plugs should be removed, examined,

cleaned and, if worn excessively, replaced. The condition of the spark plug will also tell much about the overall condition of the engine. 3. If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture, or too hot a plug. (A hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly - a cold plug transfers it away quickly). 4 If the top and insulator nose is covered with hard black looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 5 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish brown deposits, then the mixture is correct and it is likely that the engine is

in good condition. 6 If there are any traces of long brown tapering stains on the outside of the white portion of the plug, then the plug will have to be renewed, as this shows that there is a faulty joint between the plug body and the insulator, and compression is being allowed to leak away. 7 Plugs should be cleaned by a sand blasting machine, which will free them from carbon more thoroughly than cleaning by hand. The machine will also test the condition of the plugs under compression. Any plug that fails to spark at the recommended pressure should be renewed. 8 The sparking plug gap is of considerable importance, as, if it is too large or too small the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The spark plug gap should be set to .025 inch for the best results. 9 Toset it, measure the gap with a feeler gauge, and then bend open, or close, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved. The centre electrode should never be bent as this may crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. 10 When replacing the plugs, remember to use new plug washers and replace the leads from the distributor in the correct firing order 1342, No 1 cylinder being the one nearest the radiator. 11 The plug leads require no routine attention other than being kept

clean and wiped over regularly.

81

White deposits

and damaged

porcelain

insulation

indicating overheating

Electrodes burnt away due to wrong heat value or chronic pre-ignition (pinking)

Mild white deposits and electrode burnt indicating too weak a fuel mixture

Broken porcelain electrode

insulation due to bent central

Excessive black deposits caused by over-rich mixture or wrong heat value

Plug in sound condition with light greyish brown deposits

5 Clutch and actuating mechanism Chapter a Contents

iS General Descriptiontenteevarcsssiess sae Clutch - Adjustment.. ieee Clutch Pedal- Remove and Repicenent Clutch -Removal Clutch - Replacement os Clutch - Dismantling and Replacement Clutch - Inspection

este ne

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