795 140 42MB
English Pages 532 Year 1950
PERFUMES, COSMETICS AND SOAPS With
special Reference
to
SYNTHETICS By
WILLIAM
A.
POUCHER
Ph.C, F.R.P.S.
Volume BEING A TREATISE
Two
ON THE PRODUCTION, MANUFACTURE
AND APPLICATION OF PERFUMES OF ALL TYPES
Sixth
Edition
Reprinted
LOND ON
CHAPMAN AND HALL LTD 37 ESSEX STREET, W.C.
1950
2
FIRST PUBLISHED
•
SECOND EDITION
.
1925
*
.
1928
FIFTH EDITION
.
.
SIXTH EDITION
.
THIRD EDITION
FOURTH EDITION
REPRINTED
.
•
.
1932
1936
-
1941
-
1950
Catalogue No. iS^t4
PHnUd
m
Gt«a Britain by The Aberdeen University Press. Aberdeen. Scotland.
Bound
by G.
&
J. Kitcat, Ltd., London.
Flexiback Binding.
AUTHOR’S PREFACE TO THE SIXTH EDITION Since the publication of the last edition of this work, a considerable amount of research has been devoted by chemists in France and Switzerland to the constitution of some of the flower oils. I have included the more important results in the respective flower monographs, and this information should be useful to perfumers duplicating the various blossom odours.
• .
I have reviewed the formulae in the light of and made adjustments where necessary.
40 Piccadilly,
London, W.
i,
July, 1941.
this
work
—
Vll
CONTENTS CHAPTER
........ —
Historical Sketch
I.
PAGE 3
— The Chinese The Egyptians, specimens in the British Museum — Tutankhamen, analysis of cosmetics found, uses of perfumes by the Egyptians — The bath — Cosmetics The Bible, perfumes mentioned therein —Jewish cosmetics — The Koran — Persian religions and idolatry — Asiatic nations — The Greeks —Theophrastus, description of the perfumer’s art and the raw materials he used — The Romans — Unguent containers Arabian research — Oriental cosmetics — Perfumes and cosmetics in Britain — The Act of 1770 — Grasse and the natural perfume industry — The legitimate use of modern cosmetics — Face massage — Face The
Atlantians
lifting.
CHAPTER The Production
II.
of Natural Perfumks
The perfume
.
.
.
.
.21
Research work of numerous the plant. chemists 2. Agricultural research 3. Times of new crops of the more important flowers, oils, etc. 4. The separation of the natural odoriferous materials by means of distillation, expression, extraction (enfleurage, maceration, and volatile solvents) Percentage yields of concretes and absolutes Processes patented I.
—
—
in
— —
5.
Statistics.
CHAPTER The Purchase and Use I.
How to buy — 2.
—
of Flower Absolutes
.
— —
—
artificial
CHAPTER
I.
III.
Manufacturers’ raw materials absolutes Testing the odour 4.
and pure standards for sale 6. Qualities in of absolutes in perfumes, etc.
Odour
—
—
Classification
Rimmel’s
—
2.
5.
flower
3.
.54
Suggested
oils
...... —
Piesse’s
.
Dilutions
3.
—
7.
Use
IV.
Crocker and Henderson’s.
60
CONTENTS
Vlll
CHAPTER Fixation
V.
.....
and Blending
.
.
66
final fixation—-2. Natuni! I. Introduction, pre-fixation, blending, fixators, animal, vegetable (including essential oils, balsams,
gums, and oleo-resins)— 3.
Artificial fixators, synthetic aromatic:
compounds (including ambers, floral fixators, oriental fixators, and toilet water fixators) with formula-— 4. Classification of fixators: (i) Essential oils; (2) Balsams, gums, oleochemicals,
Synthetic aromatic chemicals (4) Odourless Flower perfume fixators ; classified and tal^iilated of the more important floral odours with wide range of suit-
resins, etc.
synthetics list
(3)
;
—
;
5.
able fixators.
CHAPTER Monographs on Flower Perfumes
VI.
...
.
.
-90
History, varieties of flowers and their cultivation, odour, natural perfume, chemistry, compounding notes, synthetic comi)onc*nts, Acacia, cassie, artificial ottos, alcoholic perfumes, including carnation, chypre, cyclamen, fern, gardenia, hawthorn, honeysuckle, heliotrope, hyacinth, jasmin, lilac, lily, magnolia, mimosa, narcissus, new-mown hay, orange blossom, orchids, reseda, rose, sweet pea, trifle, tuberose, violet and wallflower. :
CHAPTER Miscellaneous Fancy Perfumes Non-alcoholic concentrates Continental practice. I.
...... —
—
Well-known recipes
2.
CHAPTER
Toilet Waters
VII.
.......— Honey
266
3.
VIII.
.
.
296
Hungary water 2. Eau de Cologne, history, original type, modern prototypes, quickly matured, flower modifications, terpeneless, cheap, frozen— 3. I.
Introduction,
water,
Lavender waters, English and French, quickly matured, amber, and cheap 4. Florida water, eau de Cananga, and eau de Portugal.
terpeneless
—
CHAPTER Soap Perfumery Division
IX. ^
of manufacture.
.318
Perfuming and milling often a separate business. Milling chips—-2. Soap making. Raw materials, best quality stock, boiling process. Dry chips. Cold process. Shaving, transparent, buying milling chips. Superfattmg— 3. Milling process, mixing, milling, plodding, stamping. Coloured soaps, pigments and dyestuffs used. Cracking— 4, Perfuming, notes on main constituents. Flower oils, matching I.
—
—
CONTENTS
IX
PAGE with an example of violet.
Perfume components. Formulae for principal soap perfumes 5. Antiseptic and medicated soaps.' Comparative properties of volatile oils. Antiseptic perfume 6. Perfumed wrappers and boxes.
—
CHAPTER
X.
Tobacco Flavours
367
Curing. strictions.
Prizing.
grown.
Plant varieties
Origin of tobacco.
I.
Cultivation.
Constituents— 2. Manufacture. Excise reand snulf, including perfume
Cigars, cigarettes, tobacco
and flavour formulas
—
3.
Tobacco
duties
and
statistics.
CHAPTER XL Floral Cachous I.
380
Early types of mouth pellets
standards, base, bouquet
and
2.
Lozenge-made cachous,
floral flavours
cess— 3. Tablet-made cachous,
with formulae, pro-
base, manufacturing process.
CHAPTER XIL Incense and Fumigants
387
Incense, ancient uses, joss-sticks
3.
Perfumed incense
—
4.
—
Fumigating pastilles— Perfumed ribbon, cards, programmes.
I.
CHAPTER
391
—
two types
2.
CHAPTER Fruit Flavours I.
Natural
—
Sachet base 3. Odour Pot-pourri, olla-podrida— 5. Solid perfumes.
General notes,
formulae— 4.
XIII.
Perfumes
HETs AND Solid I.
.
.
fruit juices,
XIV. 399
.
preparation, yield— 2.
—
and approximate yield 3. components and 14 type formulae.
process
2.
Artificial
Concentration, fruit
flavours,
APPENDIX
409
INDEX
421
XI
LIST 1.
Wooden
2.
Kohl Pots
..... ...... ......
Toilet Box
3-
Kohl Vases
4
Hair Pins, Stibium
.
OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Pencils,
and Ear Studs
.
5.
Unguent Vases
.
6.
Unguent
Kohl Tubes, and Roman Combs
7.
Kohl Tubes
.'
Vase,
.
.
.
..... ...... ..... ..... ..... .... ...... ..... .....
in coloured glass
Facing page
3
6
jj
jj
7
JJ
10
JJ
10
H
JJ
14
JJ
8.
Razor and Mirrors
J7
IS
9
Hawk
JJ
15
JJ
30
-
Mirror
by Fire
10.
Distillation
II.
Distilling Plant
12.
Distilling Plant
13
-
Distilling Plant
14
-
Storage of Floral Waters
15
-
Enfleurage
.
31
JJ
Page 32 JJ
33
Fachgpage 34 40 ii
16.
Storage of Pomades-
JJ
17
Defleurage Machine
JJ
42
JJ
42
JJ
43
JJ
43
JJ
44
JJ
44
-
Vacuum Surface by new method
18.
Remov^al of Stalks by
19.
Chassis Grease
.
..... .....
20: Chassis Grease Surface by old 21. Maceration Process 22. Maceration Process 23. Maceration
method
.... .... ...... ....
Flower Presses
40
JJ
45
24. Volatile Solvent Plant
JJ
46
25- Volatile Solvent Plant
JJ
46
JJ
47 48
26, Volatile Solvent Plant
27. Batteuses for 28.
Carnations
Washing Pomades
29. Carnations in cultivation
.
JJ
96
JJ
97
OF ILLUSTRATIONS
LIST
Xll
30. Carnations in cultivation
31.
Two
3 2.
Cyclamens
33.
Gardenia.
.
Varieties of Cassie
102
.
,
.
.
,
36.
Honeysuckle
37.
Hyacinths
.....
38. Hyacinths awaiting Extraction
.... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... ....
39. Jasmin Flowers
40. Jasmin Plantations 41. Syringa Vulgaris 42. Lilies of the Valley
44.
Mimosa Flowers
45. 32.
Avenue of Mimosas
Mimosa
47. Narcissus cultivation
48. Jonquille Flowers
49. Orange Trees in 50. Collecting 1
.
14
„
I
60
n
1
66
71
^
^
„
176
„
176 1H6
..
«S 7
„
1K8
„
_
Mignonette cultivation .
.
,
59. Peasant
Stills
•
.
.
60. Peasant Distillery 61. Distillation in Bulgaria
62. Roses arriving at works 63.
Still
^
Stills
68.
Modern Steam Stills at
Kalofer
92
„
206
„
210
7)
212
.
„
212
„
213
214
214
66. Different Systems of Distillation
67.
191 I
202
64. Condensers 65. Fire
xS^
„
7,
Heads
Stills
I
>>
»
7J
57. Village of Shipka
35
4^
190
54. Separating Orange Blossoms from Leaves
58. Collecting Roses in Bulgaria
^
^
154
j,
.
>>
yi
I
Orange Blossom
.
30
34
,,
of Orange Flowers
55. Separating Neroli Oil
1
1
„
Orange Blossom
Orange Groves near Grasse Distillation
„ M
170
bloom
full
53. Collecting Algerian
56.
18
.
43. Magnolia Grandiflora
5
10
1
Oxyacantha
34. Crataegus
35. Heliotrope
46. Sorting
I
77
215
77
215
218
.
220 221
LIST
OF ILLUSTRATIONS
.... .... ...... ...... .... ..... .... ......
69. Rose Extraction by Volatile Solvents 70,
Rose Fields in Provence
71.
Rose Collection
72.
Sorting Roses
73. Sweet Peas
at
.
.
»
•
>>
Hyeres
74. Trifolium Incarnatum
Facing page 222
•
•
)}
227
•
?>
242
jj
246
•
75. Tuberose Flowers
•
76. Collecting Tuberoses
•
}}
•
yj
77.
Parma Violets
..... ..... ...... ...... ...... ......
78. Victoria Violets
n
•
}}
80. Violets ready for Extraction
•
}}
•
82. Collecting English Lavender
•
83. Soap Mill
•
84. Soap Plodder 85.
Soap Stamper
00
249
254 254
•
79. Collecting Violets
81. Wallflowers
226
227
}}
255
25s 264
>f
312
yf
324
•
)}
325
*
)5
326
VOLUME
11
PERFUMES
VOL.
II.
—
Fig.
I.
— Wooden Toilet
Bcjx. I
V'd /o,
nths, 'and sometimes for
beans,
years,
when
the alcohol
lost
any objectionable
smell
it
With the present possessed and became slightly fragrant. excise duty such lengthy operations would never pay, and have been devised. The best add an aromatic resin extract whose odour to the perfume for which the alcohol is to One gram of resin extract added to i litre
as a result other processes
method is
is
similar
to
be used. of alcohol will neutralise its characteristic aroma in a few weeks without giving it any specific odour, and in consequence the solution so obtained may be used for almost any perfume without much risk of spoiling the fragrance of the particular floral extract to be dissolved in it. A good example of such a resin for general use is benzoin R., but it must be remembered that the spirit containing it leave a very thin film, having an almost imperceptible odour that will be at once lasting and
will, after volatilisation,
satisfying to the user.
method
It will
be readily observed that
this
possesses distinct advantages over the old one
that complete
and
identical results are obtained
in
every time
further,
it will be noticed that definite basic blends can be repeated by the addition of known percentages of fixators.
As an
illustration of this point, the addition of i gram of each of benzoin and tolu and gram of olibanum to I litre of alcohol will give-, in about one month, a perfeedy de-odorised alcohol suitable for making verbena }^-
perfumes or some eau-de-Colognes. Similarly, the addition of certain quantities of labdanum, orris, and Peru balsam will produce a spirit well adapted for the oriental type of bouquet. Ginger and opoponax added to the latter wlE niake it heavier and warmer, while oakmoss and vetivert will alter the aroma slightly, so that the alcohol can be used satis.
factorily for trefle, foin
per
'
coupe, and fougere.
Blending will, of coOTse, depend upon the particular ume which is in course of preparation, and, according
— FIXATION AND BLENDING to
whether
it is
of
71
or of fancy type, so will the range For be used suggest themselves.
floral
of bodies that may example, in violet perfumes, santal, costus, ylang-ylang, and orris may be used ; in lily of the valley creations, bois de rose, ylang-ylang, and hydroxy-citronellal can be employed ; in carnation^ heliotropin, iso-eugenol, and benzyl iso-eugenol are useful, while for fancy bouquets almost any of the fixators can be introduced, providing their notes
combine
“to
form
that for a large
known
perfect
a
number of
harmony. floral
It
is
safe
to
say
perfumes, the better-
bodies, such as cqumarin, vanillin,
and heliotropin,
pointed out that as methyl naphthyl ketone and di-
can nearly always be utilised, but
it
is
of such articles methyl hydroqulnone will materially improve the fragrance of the finished product and are in consequence more The odorous resins of suited for “ perfumes^ de Juxe.” ambrette, angelica, patchouli, santal, and vetivert should not be oveitooked, as they are excellent substitutes for their corresponding essential oils. traces
probably the most delicate operation distinctive perfume, as it is this part of the process which gives distinction and ‘Gife” to the finished product. This step really consists of three Final Fixation
in preparing a
operations {a)
is
good and
:
The
addition of
some animal perfume, such
as
small quantities of musk, civet, ambergris, or castor, which will impart “ warmth and life ” and at the same time im-
prove the aroma by softening down the harshness caused by the presence of synthetics. if) The addition of a small quantity of a substance, such as verbena, bergamot, or bois de rose, which will produce a swet and pleasant effect. (r)
The
addition
of a suitable quantity of natural
and glowing characteristics, such as jasmin, rose, mimosa, or tuberose, which will give the predominating fldwe!y*^ote to a perfectly harmonious mixture. The finished perfume should be neither too animal nor too chemical if these points have had careful consideration. absolute, having fresh
— i.joixrumJi0, »^UMViniie;s
AND
SOAPS
no definite rule that can be laid down for the choice of fixatives other than the general principle of complete harmony between the various constituents employed Every perfumery chemist has his in any one perfume.
There
is
frequently a comprehensive knowledge, acquired by practice, of a certain number of bodies which he is inclined to use as a base when buiUiing up all new
own methods and
With
creations.
a view to exteivding this
list cd' fixatives,
regarding the employment suggestions will be made of some of the newer and more powerful h