Cook Like Your Ancestors: An Illustrated Guide to Intuitive Cooking With Recipes From Around the World 8886200307, 9788886200301

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An Illustrated Guide to Intuitive Cooking With Recipes From Around the World

“In this delightfully illustrated book, Mariah-Rose Marie writes about intuitive cooking with such thoughtfulness, respect, and specificity. Even though I already mostly cook this way, having these concepts explained so clearly felt like it brought me closer to my own processes — and to the lineage of people I learned how to cook from. The included recipes feel like an invitation to indulgence; this book feels like a warm hug and a meal prepared by a friend.”

-Shing Yin Khor, Say It With Noodles and National Book Award Finalist The Legend of Auntie Po

“Cook Like Your Ancestors not only presents a colorful variety of international recipes, but is also a thoughtful collection of cultural cooking wisdom. Filled with helpful, easyto-understand basics and instructions, this book is a beautiful guide to home cooking with care!”

-Cynthia Yuan Cheng, co-editor of Family Style: An AAPI Food Anthology

“Mariah-Rose Marie has created an AllAmerican cookbook in the fullest sense of the term. A culinary kaleidoscope of flavors, described in tasty illustrations. Let this combo awaken your palate.”

-Dan Haskett, character designer on The Little Mermaid, Beauty and the Beast and The Simpsons

cook like your ancestors by mariah-rose marie

contents

the guide about introduction to intuition tools & maintenance ingredients

6 10 20 28

the cookbook snacks & sides mains drinks sweets

38 52 68 82

acknowledgments

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For my grandmother, who taught us everything. you are so missed, and so loved.

6

7

Have you ever met someone who never seems to use recipes, yet makes on-point meals every time? It seems to be a magic preserved only in the hands of grandmothers, or any passionate provider. An ancient, special knowledge… something that takes a lifetime to perfect. But that’s not always true. You can start learning now, and you probably already know far more than you think.

Ahead lies an intimate, comic-filled cookbook featuring plant-based and vegetarian recipes of my family, my friends, my own, and contributors worldwide. Some recipes are traditional, while many others reflect the migrations, mixtures, influences, and even losses between countries and generations. It also serves as a guide and introduction to intuitive food preparation — meaning less reliance on teaspoons, grams, degrees, and exact cook times — and more on the way humans have cooked food forever: by tasting, watching, smelling, listening, and feeling.

8

When I say COOK LIKE YOUR ANCESTORS, this is what I mean.

While exact recipes often seem less intimidating for people just learning to cook, they are not always reliable, and sometimes require equipment that can be financially steep or fussy to use. None of that is here.

This book was made with international and financial accessibility in mind, and to change the often undervalued and commodified perceptions of “ethnic” food. It’s my hope that readers will open their minds and hearts to the special people and flavors in every corner of this ruthlessly divided yet increasingly globalized earth, and most especially those that have vastly been holding it down the longest: grandmas.

9

introduction to intuition

Black people don’t measure seasonings. We just sprinkle & shake until we hear the spirits of our ancestors whisper, “enough my child.” — NiAsia Danielle

measurement alternatives Most of the world’s kitchens do not have standardized measuring tools, but it certainly doesn’t stop people from eating well. Learning to wean yourself off of these tools leads to greater confidence, fewer dirty dishes, a better understanding of your food, and the ability to cook anywhere, and with anything. Here is a quick guide to the terms you’ll see throughout this book.

Let’s begin with:

the hand 1. A “pinch” of salt.

2. “finger(s)” of oil, or enough oil to fill a pan a finger segment deep. 3. A “thumb” of ginger, or a piece about the size of your thumb. 4. A “handful” of spinach. This is rather literal.

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When it comes to spices, a “layer,” or shaking until there’s a light, even application of the spice on a dish is usually sufficient for flavor. For those less trusting in their spice application intuition however, stick to…

spoonfuls Australia: Metric, 20 mL

UK & Canada: Imperial, 15 mL

USA: Queen Anne, 14.8 mL

To avoid the mess of converting the nonsensical imperial system to the metric, use of either is limited in this book, with the exception of some cakes. No matter what country you reside in, your standard, everyday spoon (the bigger one!) will do just fine.

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golden ratios Getting comfy with ratios means you can more easily adapt to changes in how many people you’ll serve. Just taking a mental note of ratios is a helpful habit with anything from cooking beans and lentils, to more dynamic combinations such as the proportion of cabbage to kimchi paste, or brown sugar to tamarind concentrate. Take rice, for example. Cooking most kinds such as jasmine, basmati, and your typical short grain white rice requires precision, calling for a rice-to-water ratio of 1:1.5.

No measuring cup? No worries. Use any container to measure this out! I use a drinking cup that I can easily discern where half is. Just be aware that different varieties and styles call for different ratios. Japanese white short grain uses a rice to water ratio of 1:1.2, but some wild rice can use up to a whopping 1:6!

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the order of things On this planet, there are likely as many variations in the ways people traditionally cook as there are cultures. But the world over, as reflected in this book, there is a general pattern that even the most complicated sauces, stews, soups, and stir frys follow that’s helpful to know. These are the essential steps for most dishes that allow cooks to commit foods to memory.

preparation Legumes and grains are the staples of our species. Be it beans and rice or lentils and millet, many must be cleaned and soaked. Make sure to account for the time it takes to wash, soak, or salt the ingredients you need for your dish.

cooking 1. Sauteeing your aromatics in fat almost always comes first. These are your onions, garlic, shallots, roux, pastes, and/or whole spices that will create the base flavor for your entire dish. Start slow, you don’t want to burn this. 2. Add your main, longer-cooking ingredients & seasonings, including salt. Incorporate well and allow the flavors to intermingle. 3. If the recipe calls for a wet ingredient (crushed tomato, broth, water, wine, etc.) it goes in around here. 4. Bring that flame down to a simmer and cook as long as necessary for desired texture, reduction, and/or flavor. Taste and adjust as you go. 5. Final adjustments take place here, as well as the addition of any fresher ingredients whose texture you’d like to preserve. When ready, remove from heat, garnish, and enjoy.

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flavors All peoples have distinct flavor combinations that make a particular food culture unique. The climate, geography, economy, and history of a place changes the ingredients key to these flavors. For example, Korean dishes historically balance sweet, sour, salt, bitter, and spice, while Guyanese foods reflect an incredible blend of global foodways in their spice, umami, sweet, and salt. No matter what flavor profile you’re trying to create, finding the balance within each dish is vital to good eating.

sweet Perhaps most enjoyed in fruits or desserts, a little sweetness can go a long way in cutting through heat and bitterness, as well as balancing acidity.

spice Too often feared and much beloved: only chilies bring on the heat of capsaicin. But a kick can be found in horseradish or hot mustard as well.

bitter While not too popular in the west, bitterness is vital to balancing many dishes, and is often a sign of high nutritional value in a vegetable.

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salt is king. When used before cooking, it makes tough greens tender, draws water out of vegetables, and mellows strong flavors. When used while cooking, it enhances all flavors, but especially uplifts sweetness and counteracts bitterness. balances

enhances

sour Whether it be tangy, tart, acidic, or outright mouth-puckering, sourness often provides a refreshing brightness to dishes. Enjoy via citrus juice, vinegars, fermented vegetables, yogurts, etc.

umami is savory incarnate. In its purest form, it’s monosodium glutamate, a crystallized product extracted from the process of fermenting sugary crops. But essential glutamate is a richness that’s also found naturally in tomatoes, cheeses, mushrooms, meats, and many fermented or aged foods.

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Recipes are your guide, but all kinds of factors (such as a finicky oven, or baking at 5,000 feet above sea level) can make them unreliable. Your 5 senses are what should lead you in the kitchen.

We eat with our eyes. How is the color? Golden brown? Red and ripe?

Frying something? Well, if it doesn’t sound like an autumn leaf crunching underfoot, try again.

Deliciousness is the only way to know if you’ve succeeded.

a note on preference We all know the type of cook who sees “2 cloves of garlic” in a recipe, then proceeds to use 6. Or garnishes everything with a hot chili and a mountain of cilantro. Or maybe that’s just me. But that’s ok! Because it’s up to you.

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The sixth sense. If you’ve had this dish before, how does yours compare to that first magical time?

Are the textures where you want? How is the consistency?

Don’t be afraid to modify a recipe. Omit something you hate, or add something you just know would go perfectly with it. Is a particular ingredient hard to find, or wildly expensive? Research substitutes. There’s no shame.

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tools & maintenance

cook’s dozen Don’t let bougie home chefs fool you. 12 basic tools are all that’s needed to make most anything!

a proper SHARP chef’s knife Let the 10-knife block set go. Quality over quantity.

If you want to be a total badass who knows how to sharpen your own blades, invest in a whetstone (400/1000 grit is great for beginners!) or find a sharpening service in your area.

wooden spoon or spatula

stainless steel or ceramic coated baking sheet*

A stockpot works too, but dutch ovens are oven safe.

mortar & pestle (or coffee grinder) Trust. Using fresh spices will change your life!

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enamel or ceramic coated dutch oven*

1. carbon steel 2. cast iron 3. ceramic coated pan*

blender Immersion blenders are good for many things too, and cost less than standard blenders.

grater

XL chopsticks (or tongs) Excellent for frying.

can opener

Consider safely disposing of your traditional nonstick (aka Teflon) cookware ASAP. When chipped, scratched, or heated to high temperatures, exposure to the slippery chemicals used in the coating (PFAS, eg. PFOAs and GenX) are linked to a number of cancers, birth defects, thyroid disruption, liver and blood problems, bird deaths and are major environmental pollutants. The compounds are banned in over 180 countries, but many countries such as the US are notably lax in their regulation and disposal. While some alternatives may cost more up front, with proper care they can be safely nonstick for more than a lifetime.

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I can personally vouch for the incredible reliability of a $20 USD cast iron pan. Here’s a story about...

Next thing I knew the pan was glowing red enough for a blacksmith.

I called my grandmother when I got home, shamefully recounting what happened, and ready to throw the pan out.

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One time, I went camping with my trusty new-ish cast iron. Confident that it was virtually indestructible, I put it directly on the fire to cook dinner.

When it finally cooled, the pan was utterly stripped of all its protective surface and had immediately started to rust.

It’s not ruined! You just burned the seasoning off, but you can put it on again.

For context, a cast iron skillet is found in most any southern home, and my grandmother had an ancient and perfectly maintained collection.

They do everything! Sauté, sear, broil, bake, boil, blanch, stir-fry, and deep fry in ‘em. The more oil you use, the blacker, smoother, and slicker they become. This coating is what’s called the seasoning. And it’s hard to mess up.

So without further ado, from my grandmother to you:

Thinly coat the entire skillet in any neutral tasting oil (like canola or sunflower, not olive or coconut). If you hadn’t burnt all of it off, you’d just spread the oil on the inside. I like to use a paper towel to spread it evenly. If the oil is running off in the oven, you’ve used too much.

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Pop it in the oven at 300°F or so degrees and let it bake for 4-6 hours. You should do this maybe 2 times a year, or whenever the seasoning seems thin and food starts sticking.

I like to do it in the cooler months, as the oven will warm up the house.

You don’t need soap when cleaning it, hot water and a scrubber is fine.

Dry it totally when you’re done washing, and rub a little oil on it if you just cooked with something acidic like tomatoes.

In this case though, you’re gonna wanna do a few rounds, and layer on the outside, too.

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I was shocked.

My baby was black again! And I still use it nearly every day.

Thank you, Grandmother...

Don’t worry, babe. Now you know. And you can tell all your lil’ friends too.

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ingredients

produce Unfortunately, the huge agriculture companies that supply most of the world’s food love to treat the soil, animals, and crops we eat with toxic chemicals. In this book I will ask you to be mindful of where you source your produce, and how you peel, clean, or scrub it, especially in recipes that require the outer parts of a plant.

no synthetic herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers. (however many contain chemicals banned in most other countries that are used regularly here in the US! ) supports smaller scale farmers. (who are less of a strain on ecosystems) usually tastes better.

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supports your local growers. many farmers don’t bother with or can’t afford to go through the process of becoming federally certified organic, but still grow wonderful, safe produce. while both local and organic are ideal, it’s up to you to investigate what methods your local producers are using to grow their food.

often the cheapest and most widely accessible option. You can clean off many harmful residues with this easy, dirt-cheap, homemade produce wash: 1 part white vinegar to 4 parts water • 1 spoonful salt • 1 spoonful baking soda • a good squeeze of lemon •

Soak or spray your produce, let sit for 5-25 mins before rinsing or scrubbing clean.

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keeping it seasonal While it can be hard to stay true to given the globally collaborative nature of this book, the best way to secure great-tasting produce at their nutritional peak is by paying attention to when it’s in season.

Supplementing your produce purchases at Farmer’s Markets, with local sellers, or through CSA programs (Community Supported Agriculture) will lead to seasonal buys naturally.

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fats Coconut, avocado, olive oil, or ghee are the healthiest. Their high smoke points mean you can fry or cook most anything in them without the risk of carcinogens.

about that vegan butter... Unfortunately nearly every plant-based butter subsitute uses palm oil, an ingredient native to West Africa whose unchecked production has razed rainforests from Indonesia to the Amazon, displacing indigenous peoples and destoying precious biodiverse ecosystems. Its ability to be harvested ethically is dubious, regardless of certifications.

While it may seem to be in everything, try to find brands without this ingredient! If you can’t (depending on your diet and access), it may be more ethical to buy local small batch butter from free-roaming cows than it is to buy palm-based oils shipped in from across the globe. 33

specialty markets Culture-specific grocery stores are a godsend if you’re lucky enough to live close to one. Some recipes in this book have ingredients that might make you question your shopping list.

Well, it doesn’t make sense to buy this insanely good-smelling spice, who knows when I’ll make Eritrean food next?

Preferably at your local grocery!

Here’s a few reasons why:

price Items are often cheaper than

buying from high-end stores that may carry the same products (eg. Whole Foods) that don’t have any concern or financial ties to the communities they benefit from.

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To that I say:

JUST DO IT.

SEASONALITY Depending on your locale

(warmer coastal regions are best with this), produce is often more seasonally rotated, meaning great deals at peak harvest time and less strain on the planet to grow and ship out of season produce.

freshness You’ll find that popular produce, herbs and spices have a higher turnover rate, meaning fresher flavors.

bulk Though the sizes might be

intimidating, spices store great in air-tight containers or a freezer, and you can always split them up with someone who’s equally down to throw down in the kitchen.

And them’s the basics! So tie back your hair, wash your hands, and get in the kitchen, cuz we’re ready to...

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cook like your ancestors

starters snacks & sides

Navajo Frybread / Dah Díníilghaazh by Hailie Coutee via ​​Mawmaw Coutee & Chief Arthur Bennett Fry bread has become universally adored amongst Indigenous communities in the US, but its origins can be traced to the Navajo tribes of the Long Walk. The Long Walk was the culmination of attempted genocide via government violence, terror, and scorched earth campaign in 1856, in which Diné adults and children were forcibly marched for hundreds of miles from their ancestral homelands and into forced internment. With no access to their traditional foodways, they were reliant on canned and processed rations from the US government. What began as lard, flour, and sugar became fry bread: a story of survival and resistance.

origin: Diné Bikéyah yield: 5 pieces approx

ingredients • • • • • •

2 cups flour 4 teaspoons baking powder warm water (usually about 155 mL or 2/3 cup) shortening/oil of your choice cornmeal seasonings of your choice (optional)

FRYING PRO-TIP: Take a tiny pinch of dough and put in the oil. When the oil is hot enough, it will rise to the top and bubble immediately. No thermometer needed here!

method Combine flour, baking powder, and seasonings in a large bowl. Spices like cinnamon or onion powder will do depending on if you want plain, sweet, or savory fry bread. Add warm water and work the dough until the dough is smooth and no longer sticky. Divide dough into balls of your size preference. (I like mine to be about the size of a tangerine.) Dust your rolling surface with cornmeal or flour. Roll out the balls of dough into a rough circle, a little thinner than your pinkie finger. Score an X through the center of each dough patty.

method (continued) Put about 3 fingers (~2 in / 4 cm) of shortening or oil in a pan and heat until ready to fry, then cook one at a time, flipping bread once one side is golden brown. When both sides are golden, remove from oil and pat dry or drain oil with paper towels. Once cooled, top however you like! For breakfast, top with eggs, cheese, or tomatoes. Sweet ones with honey, fruit, jams, or powdered sugar are also excellent, and fry bread tacos are also common. Nizhónígo adííyįįł!

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Kashk-e Bademjan / ‫کشک و بادمجان‬

by Camellia Jahanshahi via parents Kamran Jahanshahi & Julie Milner and grandmas Becky Milner & Mahin Mahooi

No region in the world transforms the humble aubergine / eggplant into such a delicious form as in North Africa, Southwest Asia, and the Balkans. Zeroing in on the delight that is Persian food, Kashk-e Bademjan is special in its richness and slight tang from the kashk — fermented whey from yogurt — but can also easily be made without dairy. This dish makes for a lovely appetizer or a meal on its own.

origin: Iran yield: 2-4 servings

ingredients • • • • • •

4 large eggplants 1 large onion, sliced into thin half moons 1/2 bulb or ~6 cloves garlic, minced 2-3 spoons of kashk* olive oil, for sautéing 1 spoonful chili powder

• 1 spoonful turmeric • 1 handful of fresh mint leaves, chopped or 1 spoonful dried mint • a dozen or so walnuts, chopped • black pepper, to taste • salt

* If you can’t find kashk, subsitute Greek style yogurt.

method Slice your eggplants in half lengthwise, removing stem and bottom. Optionally, you can score them as well. Place in a colander or strainer to layer generously with salt and let stand until softened and dripping water, about 15 minutes. While the salt does its work, cook onions and garlic low and slow in oil to caramelize. When soft and golden, stir in walnuts, turmeric and half of your mint leaves (or all if dried), then remove from heat and set aside. Rinse the salt off your eggplants with cold water and pat dry. Drizzle your eggplant slices in oil, salt, pepper, and chili powder, then place face-down in an oven safe dish. Roast on high, at roughly 380 degrees (though it depends on the oven), until soft and brown, about 25-30 minutes. Don’t forget to rotate your pan halfway through for even roasting! Once your eggplant is ready, scrape out all of the inner flesh into a bowl with your onion and garlic mixture. If eggplant is organic, you can leave the skin on for texture. Incorporate fully over medium heat, then add kashk one spoon at a time, seasoning to taste. Best served warm with hot flat bread. Garnish with more oil, walnuts, and mint and enjoy!

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Asinan Bogor

by Rachel Simanjuntak via family friend Tanta Elvie Asinan is a perfect example of the skillful balancing of flavors that’s so notable in Southeast Asian cuisine. This West Javan dish has it all: salty, spicy, sweet, sour, and savory, all joining beautifully in each bite. In a perfect display of convergent food evolution, those living in or near Mexico will find asinan similar to the cups of chili and lime-soaked fruits sold by street vendors. In Indonesia too, you can find this dish being sold cold as a refreshing boost on a hot day.

origin: West Java yield: 2-4 servings

ingredients • • • • • •

1 small jicama 1 sweet, tart apple like honeycrisp or pink lady ½ pineapple 1 cucumber 1 ripe mango 1 fresh chili of your choice, thinly sliced

for the pickling liquid • juice from ½ fresh pineapple (if in season, otherwise optional) • 4-8 spoons white vinegar • 4 spoons palm sugar or dark brown sugar • ½ spoon teaspoon of fish sauce or 1 spoon of sea salt • 1 spoon sambal oelek, or bird’s eye chili, minced

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method In a large bowl, combine pickling liquid ingredients and stir until sugar is dissolved. Taste as you go for that delicate balance of sweet, tangy, spicy, and umami. Adjust as desired. Slice all other ingredients (except the chili) into bite-size pieces, no more than 1 cm thick. Add all ingredients to the pickling liquid and stir well. Let sit overnight in the fridge, and serve cold!

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àkàrà & kanni-kosayi

by me via grandmother Rose As diasporic as a dish can be, these blackeyed pea fritters are known by many names amongst the descendants of kidnapped and enslaved Africans. In Brazil, they’re acarajé, in much of the Caribbean aacra, and in its origin countries in West Africa koose, kosai, and of course, the Yoruba àkàrà. Black-eyed peas have much spiritual significance amongst these populations, and are native to West Africa where they have been cultivated for millennia.

origin: West Africa yield: 25 fritters approx

ingredients • • • • • • • • •

1 cup / 140 g dry black-eyed peas 1 red onion, cut in fourths 5 or so cloves of garlic thumb-sized piece of ginger 1 scotch bonnet or habañero chili, halved 3 stems’ worth of thyme leaves, or 1 spoon dried oil, for frying water salt

for the kanni-kosayi inspired sauce • • • •

1 yellow onion, diced 3 stalks green onion, chopped 3-5 cloves garlic, chopped 1 large tomato, diced or 1 large can of crushed tomatoes • 1 scotch bonnet or habañero chili, minced • 2 jalapeño peppers, diced

• • • • • •

glug of white or cane vinegar 4 heaping spoonfuls tomato paste ½ spoonful black pepper oil, for sauteéing water salt

method Prepare the beans by rinsing thoroughly, then soaking in water for at least two hours. While the beans soak, prepare your sauce by sautéing onions, garlic, tomato, and chilies until softened and aromatic. Add tomato paste, vinegar, and a good splash of water. Stirring regularly, cook on low to reduce mixture to a nice, thickened sauce, about 10-20 mins depending on your pot, and adding salt and black pepper to taste. Optionally, blend or mash with a fork to reach desired texture, then store in an airtight container. The sauce will keep for weeks when refrigerated!

method When the peas have softened and doubled in size, rub them together a handful at a time to remove their hulls. Some people like to remove all hulls to create a smoother batter, while others don’t de-hull at all. I like to leave most of the hulls on, as this is where the majority of the fiber and nutrients are found! (Okay, and because dehulling takes ages.) Blend the peas, onion, garlic, ginger, chili, and thyme until smooth, adding as little water as necessary to help the blender along. Add salt to taste, starting at about two spoonfuls. Then, using a fork or whisk, stir lots of air into the batter. The batter should be thick and airy. Some folks will even use an electric whisk for a beignet-textured final product. Heat three fingers (~2 in or 4 cm) of cooking oil in a pan. Remember to test if it’s ready by putting in a tiny amount of batter in. If it doesn’t bubble instantly, wait a bit longer. Place a spoon’s worth of batter into the oil. Turn until evenly golden brown and crispy, about 3-4 minutes, then scoop them out and drain on paper towels. Serve warm with kanni-kosayi and enjoy!

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Dolma / ‫دولمة‬

by Maysam Al-Ani via mom Samira Al-Ani Originating in Greece, stuffed grape leaves are now commonly enjoyed all over the Balkans, Middle East, and Turkey. Traditionally Iraqi dolma is made with a variety of stuffed vegetables, but this condensed recipe refers to only the leaf-rolled dolma. Like folding dumplings or stuffing peppers, rolling so many grape leaves is a collaborative effort, but many hands make light work. Conversations of all kinds take place during these bonding sessions, imbuing the dolma with sentimentality in addition to their wonderful flavor.

ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

370 grams or 2 cups long grain rice 1 yellow onion, diced 4 cloves of garlic, minced 1 bell pepper, diced 1 tomato, diced 8 spoons tomato paste juice of ½ lemon 1 handful parsley, chopped 30 grape leaves* blanched (or rinsed if in brine) 1 spoonful cumin 1 spoonful coriander ½ spoonful paprika ½ spoonful salt olive oil

* Swiss chard is also a good substitute, cut to similar size and with stems removed.

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for the cooking broth • • • • •

4 spoons pomegranate molasses 4 spoons tomato paste 470 ml or 2 cups water ½ spoon black pepper 2 spoons salt

origin: Iraq via Greece yield: 30 dolmas

method Wash, then soak the rice in water for at least 15 minutes. While soaking your rice, combine all cooking broth ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a simmer, heating just enough to dissolve everything. Drain your rice, and combine it in a bowl with all the ingredients for the filling (onion, garlic, tomato, tomato paste, lemon juice, bell pepper, parsley, and spices). Use your hands to mix thoroughly. Lay your grape leaves flat, remove the stems, and place a spoonful of filling in the middle, and roll! Pour a generous layer of olive oil on the bottom of a large pot, and stack the stuffed leaves in a circular pattern, seam side down.

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method (continued) Pour the broth over your rolled leaves, leaving the top layer about halfway above the liquid level, and if possible cover with a heat resistant plate beneath the pot lid. Bring to a boil. After 15 minutes, taste the liquid and adjust spices accordingly before lowering to a simmer until the dolma have absorbed all of the broth, about a half hour. Once complete, remove from heat and set the pot aside to cool. Remove the pot lid and plate, replacing it with a serving dish, and swiftly flip the dolma onto it. Executing the flip perfectly takes experience, so perhaps get someone to help you, or simply scoop the dolma out one by one onto the tray.

lid

plate dolma broth olive oil 50

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mains

Phở ở Gà

by Lam Thuy Vo via mother Lua Nguyen Thi You likely know pho. Born in the 1880’s out of rice noodles brought from China and beef popularized by French occupying forces, pho is Vietnam’s national dish. But it wasn’t until Vietnamese refugees fleeing the resistance war against the US began to settle in other countries that pho became so popular. This southern-style pho is traditionally made with gà, or chicken, but this plant-based version still brings on that heartwarming umami feel. It takes little to understand why pho today is one of the most globally loved soups of all time.

origin: Vietnam yield: 4 bowls

ingredients • 1 package (250 grams or 8 ounces) of banh pho (but you can use any thin flat rice noodles, such as pad thai noodles) • 1 large yellow onion • 1 whole ginger root, about the size of your hand • 10-12 dried shiitake mushrooms • 5 ½ liters or 6 quarts of water • 3 cinnamon sticks* • 3 star anise* • 1 spoonful black peppercorns* • ½ spoonful coriander seeds* • 5 cardamom pods* • 2 large pods of black cardamom* • 4 spoonfuls salt • 2 spoonfuls sugar * Don’t worry about a bulk buy if you don’t have all these on hand. These spices can often be found all together in packets in Vietnamese grocery stores.

for the marinated tofu • • • • • •

1 block firm tofu 3 cloves garlic, crushed or minced 4 spoonfuls soy sauce or tamari 1 spoon sugar 1 spoon hoisin sauce (optional) oil, for pan-frying

for serving • • • • • •

1 yellow onion, sliced into half-moons 2 scallions, sliced 3 handfuls beansprouts 5-6 sprigs sweet Thai basil, stems removed 6-12 sprigs and/or leaves of cilantro 1 lime, cut into wedges

• • • •

1 jalapeño, sliced thin black pepper, ground hoisin sauce sriracha

method Prepare your tofu marinade in advance. In a storage container, combine soy sauce, crushed garlic, a pinch of black pepper, and one spoonful of sugar. Optionally, add in a spoonful of hoisin sauce. Cut tofu into thin strips, and coat evenly in marinade. Set aside as you make your broth, or for an even richer flavor, prepare the day before and let sit in the fridge overnight. Char the large onion and the ginger on open flame until blackened on both sides, about 10 minutes. Alternatively, broil on high in the oven for 5 minutes per side. Run the charred onion and ginger under cold water and vigorously rub off blackened bits. In a large stock pot, bring the water to a boil. If you are not using a spice packet, wrap cheesecloth around the cinnamon, star anise, peppercorns, coriander seeds, and black and green cardamom to form a pouch. When the water is boiling, add the spice pouch, charred onion, ginger, salt, and sugar to the water.

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method (continued) Lower the flame to medium and continue to simmer the broth until golden yellow, or for about 1½-2 hours. (Or go on longer to develop stronger flavors… next-day pho may be my favorite kind of pho.) Cook noodles as directed on package, and begin to portion them out into bowls. Pan fry your tofu strips in a little oil until crispy on each side. Lay desired amount over noodle portions. Pour 2-3 ladles of broth over the noodles and tofu, then garnish with sliced onions, scallions, cilantro, and a pinch of black pepper on top. Serve with Thai basil, bean sprouts, cilantro, lime, jalapeno, sriracha, and hoisin on the side — pho can be as spicy, acidic, or savory as you like!

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Pulneni Chuski / пълнени чушки

by Stella Kamenova via baba Masha Todorova Between Slavic, Greek, Roman, Ottoman, and Soviet influences, the small gorgeous Balkan country of Bulgaria’s food is as diverse as its history. The capital of Sofia is notable for their food-stands year round, but the colder month specialties of roasted chestnuts, squash, and sun-dried peppers (as featured in this Christmas Eve recipe) are especially nice. If you don’t have access to these food stalls, worry not, as ovendrying your peppers will do the trick!

ingredients • • • • •

10 fresh or sun-dried red peppers (bell or paprika) 1 cup dry white beans, or ~2 cans 2 stalks of leek, halved and cleaned, then chopped finely sunflower oil ½ spoon dried savory (thyme is a decent substitute if you can’t find this!) • 1 spoon chili paprika • 1 spoon dried peppermint • 1 spoon salt

method If using dry beans, soak beans in warm salted water for 24 hours, or bring beans in the salted water to a boil and let sit for at least 2 hours. If working from fresh peppers, remove the stem and core of your paprikas (or bell peppers) and lie flat on a baking sheet. Drizzle with some oil and salt, then bake at the lowest temperature your oven will go, leaving the door open a crack to let out moisture. Check on them every half hour for about 1.5-2 hours, or until they look something like this: If you’re able to procure sun-dried peppers, place them in a bowl and cover them in boiling water. Let soak for about a half hour.

origin: Bulgaria yield: 10 stuffed peppers

method (continued) In the meantime, work on your beans. Strain the soaking water out, and cover the beans with fresh water. Boil until soft, about an hour, then strain. Sauté leek in oil until softened and a little brown. Add salt, beans, paprika, peppermint, and savory. Mix well, then set aside to cool down a bit before mashing together to a nice paste. Stuff your peppers with the bean mash using a spoon. Arrange peppers and bake at 180 C / 365 F or so, until all is nicely browned, or for about a half hour. Serve cool, and enjoy!

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Pālakūra Pappu / పాలకూర పప్పు by Rishi C. via amma Siva

While the Telugu people of Southern India have an incredible array of cooking traditions, their foods are known especially well for their heat and tang. This quick yet nutritious and deeply satisfying dish puts both flavors on display. It also introduces tadka: a noun, a verb, and a type of pan, but mostly a vital technique in Indian kitchens. So though it may be difficult to get your hands on some of the famous chili or pickle varieties of Andhra Pradesh, you can still experience the flavor here.

origin: South India yield: 4 bowls ingredients • • • • • • • •

2 big bunches of spinach 250 g or ½ pound split yellow peas 4 hot green chilies, sliced thin flesh of 1 tamarind seed (or 1 spoon of tamarind concentrate) 1 spoon turmeric ½ spoon chili powder salt, to taste water or vegetable stock

for the tadka • • • • • • • •

4 spoons vegetable oil or ghee 7 cloves of garlic, sliced thin 1 hot green chili, sliced thin 2 dried red chili peppers, crushed 1 spoon mustard seed 1 spoon cumin seeds 5 curry leaves salt, to taste

method Soak the peas overnight for faster cooking time and easier digestion. Drain off soaking water and add peas to a pot with 1:2 ratio of fresh, well-salted water or vegetable stock and cook at a steady simmer. Add your tamarind concentrate. If using fresh tamarind, place your segment in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Let it sit until cooled off, then squeeze the seed of its flesh and water into the pappu. Keep cooking your peas until they’ve absorbed most of the water or broth, then add spinach and chilies. Taste and adjust salt or chili powder as you go.

method (continued) In a separate small saucepan (or if you have one, a tadka) heat vegetable oil to high, and add tadka ingredients. Be careful not to burn the garlic and fresh chili! You’ll know it’s ready when the mustard seeds, cumin, and curry leaves are audibly popping. When serving, top the pappu generously with tadka. Eat with rice or warm naan and enjoy!

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Marak Temani / ‫מרק תימני‬

by Ori Hamburg via mom Bath-Khen Greenberg & safta Miryam Katabi Marak Temani, Hebrew for “Yemeni Soup” is a stew originating from the Jewish people of Yemen, the most ancient existing Jewish community in the world! Though usually made with spice-rubbed beef or chicken, the heart and soul of this soup is in the spice itself: hawaij, a regular fixture in the kitchens of the Arabian Peninsula, the recipe for which is included here.

origin: Yemen yield: 4 bowls

ingredients • • • • • • • • • • •

olive oil 1 liter or 4 cups of water or vegetable stock 1 large yellow onion, chopped 6 cloves garlic, chopped fine 2 carrots or 1 sweet potato, sliced 3 potatoes, wedged 5 spoonfuls tomato paste, or 1 tomato, grated 3 heaping spoons of hawaij ½ bunch of cilantro, chopped 1 jalapeño (optional) salt, to taste

for the hawaij • • • • • •

5 spoonfuls cumin seed 4 spoonfuls black peppercorns 3 spoonfuls turmeric powder 2 spoonfuls coriander seed 1 spoonful green cardamom pods 1 spoonful cloves

method If you can’t find hawaij in a store, worry not. Dry toast all the hawaij spices (meaning without oil) then blend or pound until finely ground. For the soup, bring broth or water to a boil. Add onion, garlic, potatoes, carrots, tomato or tomato paste, hawaij, and half of the cilantro, adding salt to taste. Cook until carrots and potatoes are soft, around a half hour. Serve with remaining cilantro, a splash of oil and diced chili (a shortcut for mouthwatering s’hug). Best enjoyed with kubanah, or whatever fresh bread you can get your hands on. B’tayavon!

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Samla Curry / សម្លរការី

by Darianealy Keo Butler via Mama Any At the heart of many Khmer dishes is the kroueng, a general term for a variety of rich aromatic-based pastes. The yellow kroueng in this recipe blossoms in the creaminess of the coconut broth to make a flavor that will leave you dreaming of it weeks after you’ve finished the last bowl. Every aspect of the Khmer people, culture, history, and foodways are to be treasured not only for what they are, but especially because of how close the world came to losing it all in the Cambodian genocide of the 1970s. Those residing outside of Cambodia are lucky to experience Khmer food in all of its diasporic forms, and this (non-traditionally vegan) curry is no exception!

origin: Cambodia yield: 4 bowls

ingredients

for the kroueng

• • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • •

coconut oil (or any oil but olive) 1 can of coconut cream 1 can of coconut milk 1-2 cups of vegetable stock big handful of green beans, trimmed & chopped 2-3 sweet potatoes, chopped (skin on if organic, otherwise peeled) • 1 spoon fish sauce, soy sauce or tamari

for serving • • • •

sprigs of cilantro leaves of thai basil 1 lime, cut into wedges 1 chili, sliced thin

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1 spoon madras (or east Asian style) curry powder 1 star anise 1 spoon tomato paste 3-4 garlic cloves 2 shallots, halved 2 kaffir lime leaves (or the zest from 1 lime) 1 inch galangal or ginger root 1 inch turmeric root (or 1 spoon powdered) 3-6 bird’s eye chilies 2 stalks lemongrass, peeled with root ends smashed & chopped

method Begin with the kroueng by peeling off the tough outer layers of the lemongrass stalks, cutting off the bulb and ends. On the bulb end, use the handle of your knife or pestle to beat it to bits, then chop roughly. You can compost the rest of the stalk.

Combine all the curry paste ingredients together with a blender or mortar and pestle until smooth. If using a blender, you may need to add a bit of water to help the blades out. Next, heat oil in a pan over low heat. Add kroueng and spread thin over the oil, cooking until fragrant and no longer raw.

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method (continued) Add the coconut cream, coconut milk, vegetable stock, soy sauce, and sweet potatoes. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a low simmer, cooking until potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes. Add your green beans here, or halfway depending on your preference for a tender or crunchy feel. Taste the curry periodically as you cook and add more fish sauce, soy sauce, or curry powder to your preference. Serve with steamed jasmine rice or a fresh baguette. Chhnang!

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drinks

Morir Soñando

by Eva Lia Pedriglieri via Mami & Tiasa Morir soñando translates literally as “to die dreaming,” and the flavor lives up to the poetry. Some enjoy this with the juice of lime, others with passionfruit, but traditionally oranges and evaporated milk are key. Only made up of 3 ingredients, this distinctly Dominican drink is hard to pull off beautifully. If the ingredients are not at the proper temperature, the milk will look curdled. But if this happens, no worries and don’t waste it! It’ll still taste like a dream.

origin: Dominican Republic yield: 2 glasses

ingredients • 1 cup or 250 ml freshly squeezed & strained orange juice • 1.5 cup or 350 ml whole or evaporated milk, or milk substitute • drop of vanilla extract • cane sugar, to taste • orange slices, to serve • crushed ice, to serve

method Stir sugar and optional vanilla extract into the milk. Put both the orange juice and milk in separate containers, and store in the freezer. Just as the liquids reach the brink of freezing over, remove from the cold. How long this takes will depend on your climate, freezer, and juice temperature, but start checking on it after 10-15 minutes. Add orange juice slowly into milk, stirring vigorously until throughly combined. Pour into glasses over crushed ice, and garnish with orange slices. Enjoy immediately. Dulces sueños~

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Beet Kvass / свекольный

квас

by V. Dyakonov via his mom’s Soviet-era cookbook Traditionally made with stale rye bread or flours, kvass is a soda-like fermented beverage often enjoyed in warm Eastern European summers, with its unclear origins predating Russia itself. While beet kvass is not very common, it’s simpler to make and is excellent for those who are fond of the earthy-sweet flavor beets are so known for. Make sure to find organic beets, or those grown without pesticides, as you want a healthy microbial biome to get the ferment going.

origin: Slavic East Europe yield: 4 glasses

ingredients • • • • •

3 large beets, preferably organic filtered or boiled water 1/3 spoonful fine sea salt cloves, cinnamon, or ginger slices (optional) berries, mint and/or lemon for garnish

salt water

beets & spices catch plate 72

or 8 servings if used as concentrate

method Scrub your beets clean. Use filtered or boiled tap water here as you don’t want to kill the microbes on the surface of the beets. Leaving the skin on, cut the root and stem from the beet, then chop into chunks. Add beets, salt, any optional spices, and enough filtered water to submerge beets by about one finger in a sanitized jar. Leave a bit of space between the surface of the water and the lid. Shake jar to combine, and store a cool spot, like a pantry or on top of your refrigerator. Put a bowl or plate beneath the jar in case it bubbles over a bit. The next day, open the jar to release the gasses produced by the fermentation process, then tighten again and return to its spot. Repeat for the following 4 days, and taste test your kvass as you go!

ferment tip:

If a white film forms on your brine or beet’s surface, this is likely not mold, but harmless Kahm yeast. Skim this layer off and continue. If it’s any other color or texture, this is mold. But removing this layer and any affected vegetable can save the batch. Smell or taste the kvass. A sour scent is normal, but a spoiled or rotten one is not! This is very unlikely to happen, but if so, throw away and take better care to select fresh produce, to clean jars very thoroughly, and to keep your ferment at room temperature.

method (continued) On day 5 to 7, your kvass should be ready. Look for a bubbly liquid, and less of a salty flavor and more of that sweet earthy beet taste we love so much. You can leave it to ferment for longer, tasting each day if a stronger flavor is desired. Strain beets from kvass and transfer to the fridge, where it will keep for at least a month. (The beets are technically pickled, and are delicious as a crunchy snack, salad topping, or roasted with other vegetables!) Drink the kvass mixed with a little sparkling water or as-is, with garnishes or plain!

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Tangawizi Chai

by an anonymous kudu Tea was first introduced to Kenya by way of India in 1903, where it’s flourished in the rich volcanic soils ever since. Today Kenya is the world’s largest exporter of tea, second only to China. But as is typical of countries recovering from imperial occupation, Kenyans are still being exploited for their labor. Though they supply Britain with 40% of their black teas, workers are often underpaid, underage, and abused. While a change of consumption patterns is not a solution for these systemic problems, purchasing organic fair trade tea is the way to go. Tangawizi, Kiswahili for ginger, goes so smoothly with this strong Kenyan milk tea.

origin: Kenya yield: 4 mugs

ingredients

spices (optional)

• 2 cups or ½ liter milk or milk alternative* • 2 cups or ½ liter water* • thumb of ginger, finely grated or minced (skin on if organic, peeled if not) • 3 spoons loose leaf, fair trade Kenyan black tea • cane sugar, to taste

• 8 cloves, crushed • 1 cinnamon stick • 8 cardamom pods, crushed, plus more for serving

* The ratio of milk to water here can be played with depending on how creamy you like your milk tea.

method Bring water to a boil with ginger and optional spices. If you like your ginger to retain a strong kick, add later with the milk, or even after sieving for the most powerful medicinal effect. Once boiling, add tea and simmer briefly, or until the tea has fully turned the water to a rich dark color. Add milk and simmer for a few more minutes, adding sugar to taste. Sieve tea and serve with 2 or 3 crushed cardamom pods in each cup. Enjoy with maandazi (a sort of East African doughnut) or on its own.

If using a plantbased milk, heat it up beforehand, as some brands and homemade types will curdle if added directly to heat from cooler temperatures.

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boba con horchata

by me, vetted and approved by Mexican and Taiwanese friends alike Los Ángeles’s food culture would be nothing without its Indigenous / Latinx and Asian communities. The celebration of these two cultures can be seen city-wide in combinations of Peruvian-Chinese arroz chaufa, Filipino lumpia with carne asada fillings, and taco trucks with kimchi quesadillas. The idea of drinking agua frescas with tapioca pearls is nothing new, akin to your usual order of mango green tea with boba pearls. But horchata is not often on tea shop menus, and this classic milky drink blends beautifully with chewy homemade brown sugar boba.

origin: México & Taiwan yield: 4 tall glasses ingredients

for the boba

• • • • • •

• 140 g or 1 cup tapioca flour, plus more for working dough • 60 g or 5 spoons dark brown sugar • water, as needed

400 grams or 2 cups jasmine rice 1 liter or 4 cups filtered water 500 ml or 2 cups milk or milk alternative 1 spoon vanilla extract 3-4 cinnamon sticks, whole dark brown sugar, to taste

method First, prepare the horchata. Wash your rice and cinnamon sticks, then add to a blender with water. Blend until fine, about 2 minutes. (If your blender cannot hold all the water, set aside half.) Pour mixture into a container with the rest of your water, vanilla, and milk or milk alternative. Give it a good stir before chilling in the refrigerator overnight. The next day, or at least ten hours later, sieve your rice milk mixture into a pitcher and add brown sugar to taste. Store in the refrigerator.

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method (continued) While the horchata steeps, prepare your boba pearls. Dissolve your brown sugar on the lowest heat possible, as to not evaporate too much water. Once dissolved, rapidly stir in half of your tapioca flour, then take off the heat and stir in the rest. It should gather in a big glutinous ball. Scrape out onto a clean, lightly (tapioca) floured surface. The dough will be sticky, but knead with flour-coated hands until it becomes smooth. Depending on how much help you may have on hand, you’ll need to cover half of your dough to prevent it from drying out. Do so in a covered bowl. If you have someone around to help, divide the dough in half and roll into two long cylinders. Cut these into boba pearl-sized squares, then roll the squares into spheres, making sure they have enough flour on them to prevent sticking to one another. Pack any boba you aren’t going to use immediately into a freezer-safe bag with as little air in it as possible. To cook the pearls, add at least a 1:6 ratio of boba pearls to boiling water. Cook until the pearls are totally translucent and chewy, about 20 minutes, then strain under cold running water. To serve, immediately add a few spoonfuls of boba pearls to the bottom of a glass with ice. Pour horchata over the pearls, garnish with a cinnamon stick, and enjoy! Store in the refrigerator.

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Chicha Morada

by an anonymous Inca tern & their mama The Andean highlands are legendary for being the homeland of over 4,000 varieties of potatoes, but Peru in particular also boasts 55 types of corn, ranging in color from sky blue, to blood red, to golden, to morada — or purple. With deep religious and social roots in the Incan empire, chicha is a general term used to describe all kinds of beloved and (mostly) corn-based drinks across South America. From beers to sweet fruity drinks such as the one of this recipe, enjoying a cool glass of chicha is an experience not to be missed.

origin: Peru yield: 4 glasses

ingredients • • • • • •

5 ears of dried purple corn 1 pineapple, preferably organic 1 cinnamon stick 4 litres or 1 gallon of water 2 lemons, juiced cane sugar, to taste

Purchase dried or frozen at a South American market! 80

method Scrub your pineapple really well (especially if not organic) before taking off the shell, coring it, and slicing the flesh into big chunks. Don’t throw the shell out, we’ll use it in this recipe! Pour water into a pot with the corn, pineapple shells, and cinnamon, then heat until it reaches a rolling boil. Lower to a simmer and cook until the corn has given all of its color to the water (45 mins - 1 hour). Add sugar to taste, and stir until dissolved. Once cooled, add lemon juice, and refrigerate. Serve chilled with fresh pineapple pieces and ¡disfruta!

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SWEETS

Skyrterta

by two anonymous Icelandic horses When one thinks of Iceland’s natural resources, earth-splitting volcanoes may come to mind, or the billowing clouds of steam from blue-colored natural springs. But the Norse would have never been able to settle the small and beautiful island of extremes without their sheep. Skyr — the central ingredient in this cheesecake-like dessert — is a protein-rich dairy product similar to traditional full-fat Greek yogurt. Though it’s now rarely made with sheep’s milk, it remains today a staple in Icelandic eating. With a history stretching back over a millennia to the very beginnings of the country itself, everyone will enjoy getting to know skyr through this recipe.

ingredients origin: Iceland yield: 1 cake

• 400 ml heavy cream, or 1 can coconut cream • equal amount of plain Icelandic skyr or plant-based yogurt • 5 spoonfuls powdered sugar • 2 handfuls of blueberries, or any berry of your choice • 1 spoonful vanilla extract

for the crust • • • • •

14 graham cracker squares or 18 digestive biscuits 1 spoonful of light brown sugar 2 sticks / 100 g of butter, or 10 spoonfuls coconut oil pinch of cinnamon salt

method Crush or blend crackers or biscuits until they reach the consistency of sand. Combine with melted butter or coconut oil, brown sugar, cinnamon, and a pinch of salt. Pack the crust firmly and evenly into the base of a parchmentlined cake pan (a springform pan would be ideal here, but not necessary) and chill in the freezer while you prepare the filling.

equal amounts

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Whip coconut milk or cream with powdered sugar and vanilla. Once stiffened, gently fold in the skyr and a handful of blueberries. You can smash the blueberries beforehand for a more even flavor. Pour the filling into the crust bottomed pan, and refrigerate until solid, about 3-4 hours.

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Palaappazham panniyaaram / பலாப்பழப் பணியாரம்

by Meenalogini Jeyaraj via Amma Thavamani Nesarajah There is nothing quite like palaappazham! Weighing up to 100 pounds, jackfruit are the largest tree fruit on earth, and come in dozens of beautiful varieties. Mexican, Caribbean, Asian, or Indian grocery stores often sell it in more manageable slices if you’re looking to buy lighter. But this Tamil recipe is fantastic if by chance you’ve bought more jackfruit than you can eat in time, as it’s usually made with a typically soft, gooey-ariled type called koolan. But very ripe, or canned jackfruit is a great substitute.

ingredients • 1 can of jackfruit in syrup (or ~15 ripe jackfruit arils, seeds removed) • 120 g or 1 cup flour • 1 heaping spoonful sugar • 1/4 spoonful baking powder • 180 ml or ¾ cup coconut milk • pinch of salt • water • oil for frying

origin: Sri Lanka yield: 15 fritters approx method Combine all dry ingredients, then stir in coconut milk. The batter should be thick, about the consistency of a custard. If runny, add a bit more flour, and if too thick add a little water at a time until it’s just right. If using canned jackfruit, be sure to pat the jackfruit pieces semi-dry of their syrup before dipping to ensure the batter sticks, and to prevent any popping oil. Heat the oil to fry the batter-coated jackfruit, about 3 fingers deep, and turn the fritters every 30 seconds or so to make sure they fry evenly. When uniformly golden brown, take out and drain on paper towels.

kfruit sh jac e r f g nife If usin your k d in f u sticky and yo o the t d n u bo with utterly some rubbing ill , owel w residue aper t p a d f. oil an ight of r it e tak

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Enjoy when cooled with a hot cup of tea.

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Meskouta / ⵎⴻⵙⴽoⵓⵜⴰ

by Amanda Meadows via Mommy Rajae If you’ve ever been lucky enough to enjoy an inseason orange from the Southwest Asian or North African regions, you will know why their citrus is so treasured by local and international importers alike. Different incarnations of a moist, zesty almond cake can be found all over these areas, but when French and Spanish colonizers moved in on Morocco in the early 1900s, the meskouta was born. Butter and wheat flour free, this cake uses the plentiful moisture and flavor of whole oranges to carry it. Traditionally made in the winter seasons when citrus is plentiful, this Amazigh / Maghrebi version is especially nice, with an option for a fragrant, intoxicating syrup to serve.

origin: Morocco yield: 1 cake

ingredients

for the syrup (optional)

• 4 fresh oranges (preferably organic) 1 set aside for zesting & syrup • 240 g or 2.5 cups almond flour • 250 g or 1 ¼ cup sugar • 5.5 g or ½ spoon of baking powder • 6 large eggs • pinch of salt • butter or oil, for greasing

• • • •

175 ml or 3/4 cup sugar 60 ml or 1/4 cup water a few glugs of orange blossom water juice from ½ of an orange

method Preheat oven to 350 F / 175 C and generously grease a 25 cm / 10 in cake pan with the fat of your choice. Set aside. Scrub the skins of your oranges clean, then boil three of the oranges in water until totally soft and splitting, about 1.5 hours. Drain the water then cut each cooked orange in half, removing the seeds. Purée the oranges either with a blender or pound with a mortar and pestle until smooth. Set aside to cool. In a separate bowl, beat the 6 eggs until frothy. In another bowl, mix dry ingredients thoroughly, then combine with beaten eggs, being careful not to overmix. Fold the orange puree into the eggs gently until just smoothed, then zest your remaining orange directly into the batter. The batter will be quite thick!

method (continued) Pour batter into the greased cake pan, then bake until cake doesn’t wiggle when moved, or until a toothpick comes out clean when you pierce the center, about 40-50 minutes. If making the orange blossom syrup, simply combine all ingredients in a saucepan on low heat until sugar is dissolved. Continue to simmer until it reaches a syrupy consistency, about 20 minutes. Let the cake cool for about an hour, and serve with some Maghrebi mint tea!

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Açaí na Tigela

by my extended Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu family via BJJ grandfather Carlos Gracie The star of this dish is the small, dark berry of the açaí palm, native to the Amazon basin where people indigenous to the area have used the palm since time immemorial for its heart, wood, and berry. People there often eat the berry in a savory fashion with other staples such as fish and cassava, but most of the west knows açaí (say it with me: ah-sai-EE !) in its smoothie bowl form. Popularized by legendary Brazilian Jiu Jitsu cocreator Carlos Gracie and spread by surfers, now people all across Brazil, Southern California, and Hawai’i enjoy easy access to the fruit in this form. Unfortunately açaí is not often harvested ethically, and must come a long way to be exported outside of South America. But fret not, as blueberries are an excellent, more accessible substitute for many, and rival açaí in their nutritional value.

origin: Northern Brazil yield: 2 bowls

ingredients

for serving

• four great handfuls (or packets) of frozen açaí pulp or blueberries • juice, coconut water, or plant-based milk • guarana syrup, maple syrup, or honey

• slivered almonds, granola, coconut flakes • spoonful of peanut, almond, or cashew butter • sliced banana, kiwi, fig, dates, berries, etc. • hemp, flax, or chia seeds

method Combine the bowl ingredients in a blender. Add just enough juice, coconut water, or plant-based milk to help the motor along. You want a creamy consistency. Serve in a tigela, or bowl, and top generously with nuts, granola, sliced fruits, or seeds. Enjoy immediately on a hot sunny day, or after a crushing workout. Bom apetite!

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POUND CAKE

by my mom Nisha Marie Brown and sister Rose via my grandmother Rose Pound cake is a recipe of unclear origins that seems to have taken off in Northern Europe some three hundred years ago. It’s commonly known there as a madeira cake, but was originally named for containing only four ingredients all measured out to a pound (about one half kilo!). These days, pound cakes can be seen in all sorts of iterations — some made with rum, others with 7UP soda — but always present at just about any celebratory gathering of southern black folk, always homemade, and very rarely with any strict recipe. It’s possibly the most intuitive bake there can be, but we did our best to nail it down here.

origin: Southern US via Northern Europe

yield: 1 cake ingredients

method

• • • • •

Preheat oven to 160 C / 325 F.

500 g or 4 sticks of salted butter, softened 400 g or 2 cups fine or powdered sugar 350 g or 3 cups cake flour 6 eggs 1 spoon vanilla extract

Whip together butter and powdered sugar until light and airy, then add eggs one at a time, beating and incorporating each one thoroughly before adding the next. Add flour, mixing in only long enough for the batter to smooth. Grease a 25 cm / 10 in bundt pan and bake until a toothpick comes out smooth, about 45 minutes. Once cooled, turn out onto a serving plate and dust lightly with powdered sugar. Enjoy yourself, gift the cake to a loved one, or bring it to a cookout. You can do no wrong!

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thank you to the Silver Sprocket team for your enthusiasm and support for this idea from the very start. Especially to my editor Ari for your sharp eyes, kindness, and care in endeavoring with me to turn the loosest ingredient lists into these intuitive recipes, to Avi for being so on top of each part of the process, to Carina for helping make this book as pretty and legible as possible, and to Kyle for getting the word out ! Thank you to the trees felled to become these pages, and the people at the printer for your labor in making these books a physical reality. Big love to all those who submitted a recipe, and all of your cooking ancestors, of blood or not: Camellia Jahanshahi, Mélie Coutee, Mari Hagemeyer, Eva Lia Pedriglieri, V Dyakonov, Darianealy Keo Butler, Karen Blanch, Lorna, Rishi C., Sarah Levin, Sofia Boukhobza, Stella Kamenova, Hailie Coutee, Lam Thuy Vo, Oddaro Johnson, Vân Hoàng, Chloe Pui Yeng Chia, Oliver Katz, Rachel Simanjuntak, Pau Pujadas, Cat Arévalo, Amanda Meadows, Maysam AlAni, Meenalogini Jeyaraj, and all of my anonymous contributors. While I wanted to include every recipe that was sent to me, I did my best to try to curate a list that represented as many regions, food cultures, and food types as possible. (You wouldn’t believe how many fried doughs, soups, and cakes I got in proportion to everything else when asking for meals with strong family memories!) So while many had to be left out, best believe that I’m holding onto each one to try myself, and will think of your story, of what it means to you.

Thank you to my patrons — many of you also dear friends and comrades — who have supported me throughout the process of me making this book and beyond: Amy Cooper, Andres Chang, Rosey Ann, Sullivan, Dri Tattersfield, Charlotte, Cecil Romanov, Ale Avila, Charlie Light, Tiana No, Jesse Kerman, Alfha Tucker, Tremayne Jenkins, Kyle Jarrod, Hae-Joon Lee, Sarah Kuo, Charles Marks, Sterling, Loren & Ev Davis, Zorya Dolgushkin, Spunjji, Shelley Low, August Guang, Angela Llerena, Becca & Rob Parker, Anthony Chanza & Ty Foreman, Samantha Schumann, Siobhan Blank, all my anonymous folks, as well as those who lifted me up with their words, letters, and whatsapp voice messages. To all those who emotionally or spiritually resonated, and told me that they too felt this book was needed. To my friends, who are everything to me, my family both blood and found, thank you. To my partner and sous-chef Ori, and your limitless love, support, criticism, enthusiasm, and appetite for everything I do. To my sister Rose, for giving me the confidence, guidance and strength to always do my best (and with a plant-based option!). To my mother Nisha, for having me in the kitchen before I could even see above the counter, and sharing with me your open mind and heart to all people. And of course to my grandmother Rose, bless her memory, for showing me what it means to choose each ingredient with care, to talk to growers if you aren’t growing it yourself, to feel the process more than adhering to the directions, to make mistakes, to try something new, to always honor the history, and to never cook — or do anything of importance — without love.

Written and illustrated by Mariah-Rose Marie Recipe contributions by: Hailie Coutee, Camellia Jahanshahi, Rachel Simanjuntak, Maysam Al-Ani, Lam Thuy Vo, Stella Kamenova, Rishi C, Ori Hamburg, Darianealy Keo Butler, Eva Lia Pedriglieri, V Dyakonov, Meenalogini Jeyaraj, Amanda Meadows, Nisha Marie Brown, Rose Marie Brown, and anonymous contributors. Copyright © 2023 Mariah-Rose Marie. All rights reserved. First Printing, October 2023 Digital Edition Published by: Silver Sprocket | 1018 Valencia St, San Francisco, CA 94110, USA Avi Ehrlich, Publisher | Josh PM, General Manager | Ari Yarwood, Managing Editor Carina Taylor, Production Designer | Kyle Daileda, Publicity | Simon Jane, Shop Goblin Daniel Zhou, Shop Rat | Raul Higuera-Cortez, Big Head Bandit | Sarah Maloney, Shop Cat Sol Cintron, “Head” of “HR” | Tori Bowler, Shop Cryptid www.silversprocket.net

Mariah-Rose Marie

is a graphic novelist, story artist, illustrator and writer whose work can be seen anywhere from Netflix, FX, and HBO Max to The New Yorker, Science for the People Magazine, and The Nib. With empathy and humor, they create works about wildlife, politics, queer culture, history, and the intersections of identity. When not working on her upcoming graphic novels or storyboarding for TV, she can be found tending to urban gardens, cooking something spicy, or fighting people for sport. Mariah-Rose lives in Tovaangar, also known as Los Ángeles.

Have you ever met someone who never uses recipes, yet makes incredible meals every time? It seems to be a magic preserved only in the hands of grandmothers, or any passionate provider. An ancient, special knowledge that takes a lifetime to perfect. But that’s not always true. You can start learning now, and you probably know far more than you think. Inside this fully illustrated cookbook is an introduction to intuitive food preparation ! Meaning less reliance on teaspoons, grams, degrees, and exact cook times, and more on the way humans have always cooked: by tasting, watching, smelling, listening, feeling, and remembering. Follow along with home chef Mariah-Rose Marie to learn how to measure with your hands, season with your senses, balance flavors on the fly, remember ratios, and more—all with minimal equipment and minimal spending. You can practice your new knowledge with the twenty delicious vegetarian recipes collected from family, friends, and contributors throughout the globe. From Persian kashk-e bademjan and Icelandic skyrterta to Mexican-Taiwanese horchata con boba, the recipes range from traditional to transformed, reflecting the way foods—like people—migrate, mix, adapt, and are remembered. This book was created with international and financial accessibility in mind, and the hope that readers of all backgrounds will find appreciation for the myriad people and flavors of our shared world.

grab your trusty cast iron skillet, and get cooking!

“This book is a field guide to the ethereal and mystical parts of our cooking that give it soul. It sings with the energy of intuition and tradition, spice and spirit that are behind the power of our ancestral pots and pans to make community and legacy. This is something to cherish.”

-Michael W. Twitty,

culinary historian and James Beard Award-winning author of The Cooking Gene and Koshersoul DIGITAL EDITION

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