The Make It Yourself Gift Book: Gifts to Make at Home for All Your Family and Friends 0276422511

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THE

MAKE IT YOURSELF

GIFT

BOOK Gifts To make at home for all YOUR FAMILY' AND FRIENDS

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Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

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READER’S DIGEST

THE

MAKE IT YOURSELF

GIFT BOOK Gifts To make at home for all YOUR FAMILY AND FRIENDS

Hie Make-it-Yourself Gift Book is an adaptation by The Reader's Digest Association Limited, London, of Tire Make-it-Yourself Gift Book (1995) edited and designed by Reader’s Digest (Australia) Pty Limited First edition Copyright © 1996 Reprinted 1997 Tire Reader’s Digest Association Limited, 11 Westferiy' Circus, Canary Wharf, London E14 4HE Copyright © 1996 Reader’s Digest Association Far East Limited Philippines copyright © 1996 Reader's Digest Association Far East Limited All rights re.served. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval ,system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without permission in writing from tire publishers. ® Reader’s Digest Tire Digest and the Pegasus logo are registered trademarks of Tire Reader’s Digest Association, Inc., of Pleasantville, New York, USA

Produced in the E.C. by Partenaires-Livres® ISBN 0 276 42251 1

READER’S DIGEST

THE

MAKE IT YOURSELF

GIFT BOOK Gifts To make at home for all YOUR FAMILY AND FRIENDS

Published

by

The

London*New

Reader’s

Digest Association

YorK’Sydney*Cape

limited

Town*Montreal

Contents About this book

9

Children & young adults Cuddly cow sweatshirt.66 Delectable lace collar.68 • Flower seeds in homemade packets.70 • Basic window box.71

Babies

Personalised bedroom name plates.72

Classic christening gown,,

12

Treasure chest.74

•Jingle bears.

16

Child’s hat & scarf.76

New baby sampler.

17

Sculpted floral hair slide.78

Benjamin Bear.

18

Mouse bookends.80

• Embroidered baby’s vests

21

Beginner’s flower press.82

‘B is for Baby’ quilt.

22

Sea-side towel & tote bag.83

• Soft animal toys.

24

Decoupage pencil box.86

Rocking horse overalls.

26

Stylish soft rucksack.88

Cot blanket.

28

• Snappy sneakers.91

Daisy & bee baby’s outfit

30

Summer top & hat.92

• Soft rattles for a baby.

35

• Liberty-print hair accessories.94

Balloon cardigan & striped jumper.

36

Rainbow jumper.96

Folk art frames for baby photos.

39

Painted mat.98

• Baby’s bootees in soft leather .

40

• Printed T-shirts.100 . Brilliant bead jewellery. 102

Toddlers & pre-schoolers • Fairy wings & wand.

42

Mummy’s little helper’s apron.

43 44

Raggedy Anne doll. • Sporty peg players. • Kindergarten carry bags.

47 48

Dolls’ house.

49 50

Miniature furnimre .

54

Best friends & relations

Edward Bear suit.

56

Herb-hlled sleep pillow.104

A very special Christmas stocking.

58

• Chic fabric necklace.105

• Party pinafore dress.

59

Raffia sunhat.106

Toddler’s table & chairs.

60

Decoupage picture frame.109

Balloon shorts.

62

Dried flower wreath.110

Push-along duck.

64

Crinolined lady lampshade.112

Rock-a-bye doll’s cradle.

A calendar for all seasons

l66

Folk art kitchen canisters

168

Ribbon & lace bridal garter

171 172

Coat-hanger for a wedding dress Crazy patchwork evening l:)ag

114

Satin bridal horseshoe

Pastoral poppy tray Raffia bag .

116

Chrysanthemum tablecloth

175 176

118

Needlepoint cushion

178

Seagrass mat

120

Old-fashioned botanical picture,

.

122

179 Monogrammed towels 180 Faux finish bedside table. . 182

124

Table centrepiece of dried Powers

184

126

Handmade writing paper

186

127 128

Framed wedding bouquet

188

Country-style dish rack,

190

Fast food station for birds

192 194

121

• Framed memories Cream-on-cream cushion Handmade hatboxes • Hand-covered photograph album Garden sculpture Oak &. acorn drawer liners. Garden carry box

.

130 132

Welding day sampler

Quilted oven cloth & mitt

134

Broderie anglaise nightshirt

Elegant Victorian bow’s

136

• Luxury handkerchief bag

138

. Easy mothball bags

139 140 141

^X^ld chimes

,

.

• Birdseed rings, cakes & bells Seagrass basket • Fragrant herbs in a terracotta pot

.

196

142

Parents Space-saving kitchen tea-towel airer

Sweethearts, brides & grooms

Rosebud nightgown

200 202

Monogrammed linen handkerchief . 144 Marble kitchen board. 146

Connoisseur’s wine rack ,

206

Strawberry garden chair

207

Breakfast tea cosy

208

• Trinket box Plaited leather belt Man's luxury jumper

147 .

148

• Old-time lavender bags Iris garden apron

209 210

Hanging flower basket. 152 Sewing box 154 • Romantic flowers in a pot. 156

Fine woollen summer shawl

212

Fragrant pot pourri

214

. Aromatic beeswax candles

Sunllow'er wull hanging

Man's summer nightshirt

150

157 . 158

Elegant indoor planter box Sweet-scented solutions Man’s scarf (N hat

.

Embroidered table linen Flow^ery w-atering can

,

216 218

.

.220 222

160 162

Painted apple plate

224

164

Log cabin quilt

226

Beaded butterfly evening bag

Homemakers, hosts & hostesses Tulip cushion.230 Sweet home sampler.232 Country lace curtain .233 Painted pot plant holder

.234

Director’s chair cover.236 • Pot plant with bow.238 Decorative hat & coat rack.239

Edible gifts

Wooden towel rail.240

Nibbles & appetisers.272

Decoupage desk set.241

Sweets, cakes & biscuits.275

Fuchsia cushion.242

Jams & marmalades.282

Traditional rag rug.244

Pastes, vinegars & spices.284

Leafy lemon jug.246

Pickles.286

Home noticeboard.248

Preserves & chutneys.288

Parchment window tracery .250

Drinks.290

Rose bouquet blanket box.252 Rose-trimmed bed linen.254

Techniques

Decoupage memorabilia box.256

Sewing.292

• Placemats for a country kitchen.257

Applique.302

. European Easter eggs.258

Heirloom sewing.303

• Wreath of nuts & leaves.260

Quilting.305

Simple wooden tray.26l

Embroidery.307

. Trimmed hand towels.262

Needlepoint.315

• Plastic bag dispenser.263

Crochet.320

Decoupage key chain.264

Knitting.323

• Stencilled writing paper

Knotted lace .328

& envelopes.265

Decoupage.329

• Sea-shell picture frame.266

Flower & foliage drying.332

Marquetry bookmark.267

Folk art.334

Lacework jug cover.268

Papier mache.336

• Candles with pressed flowers.270

Stencilling.337 Woodworking.338 Tracing, transferring & scaling.343

Indexes

345

READER’S Digest General Books

Editorial Director Robin Ho,sic Art Director Bob Hook Executive Editor Michael Da\-i,son Managing Editor Paul Middleton Editorial Group Heads Julian Browne • Noel Buchanan • Cortina Butler PiCTi RE Research Editor Martin Smith Editors: Janet Healey, Ro.semary Wilkinson DESIGNERS;

Kate Finnie, Mike Spiller Craft CONSULTANTS:

Sally Milner, Hilan' More, Tonia Todman Craft ADVISERS;

Robyn Baker & Margaret Broun (Hornsby College of TAPE), Laurine Croasdale, Maureen Holmes, Barbara Lennon (Coats Patons Crafts), Marilyn McCann, Effie Mitrofanis (DMC), Lucia Ruffo, Phillip Searle, David Thompson, David Zaikowski Editorial Assistants: Maggie Aldhamland. Tom Cabot ILLUSTRATORS;

Gerry Blake, Stephen Dew, Kalliopi Papageorgiou, Colin Seton, Mike Spiller STYLISTS; Maiv'-Aiine Danaher, Louise Owens PHOTOGRAPHERS;

Andrew Elton, Mark Gatehouse PATTERN MAKER;

Lesley Griffith The publishers would also like to thank Dover Publications, Mineola, NY. for permission to use the images on the printed T-shirts (pages 100-1).

About This Book

Throughout history and in every culture, gifts have always been

partners, parents, friends, homemakers, hosts and hostesses, and

a traditional way of expressing love, regard, thanks and good

more. Each chapter has gifts suitable for various occasions, and

wishes, and of celebrating life’s many happy occasions. Giving

each includes some ‘quick and easy’ gifts and some that are more

a gift means giving part of yourself In this busy modem world, buying gifts can be a boring chore, but with this book you’ll put the joy back into giving by making your own gifts for every occasion. And you’ll rediscover the great

difficult to make, so you can choose a gift according to your skills and the time you have to spare. And, of course, many of these gifts can be made for people other than the recipients described by the chapter title.

pleasure that even the simplest handmade gift can bestow on both giver and receiver. How often have you spent hours trudging around the shops

CHOOSING WHAT TO MAKE

To find the perfect gift to make for that special person in your

looking in vain for just the right gift? Now you can spend that

life, look through the relevant chapter. Are you looking for

time much more enjoyably and profitably in making your own

something to give an extra special infant? How about a hand¬

gifts at home. At the same time, you’ll be honing the craft skills

made christening gown, modelled on a Victorian design and

you already have and learning new ones. And you’ll have the

made of delicate lace and Swiss batiste. Or for a beloved Dad,

satisfaction of putting your creativity to work, because making

you could make a wine rack to hold his favourite vintages.

the gifts in this book will give you lots of ideas for designing and making your own absolutely unique and original gifts.

A special feature of the book is the range of‘Quick and easy’ gifts. These are gifts that a beginner can tackle with confidence,

The projects in the Make-it-Yourself Gift Book cover a range

and that can be made in three hours or less - just the thing for a

of crafts that you can do easily at home - needlecraft, yam crafts,

wet afternoon or a free evening. Most of the quick and easy gifts

woodwork, decoupage, papier mache, stencilling, folk art... and

need little equipment and can be made in the comfort of an amt-

many more. If you’ve done only basic sewing, you’ll find simple

chair or a garden seat. Eind the quick and easy gifts by looking

gifts to make, either by hand or with a sewing machine, and

for the symbol • at the top of the page and in the contents and

you’ll be learning more about sewing at the same time. And if

index listings.

you’re a keen and experienced sewer, you can extend your skills even further by finding out how to make exquisite heirloom-style

MAKING THE GIFTS

garments and luxury items such as crazy patchwork.

Read through all the instmctions carefully, including the hints

USING THE BOOK

because you need to understand exactly how the gift is made and

Each chapter contains gifts specially designed to suit a particular

how long it will take you. Think how fmstrating it would be to

kind of recipient. There are gifts for children, young people.

start a decoupage project for a birthday present in a week’s time.

and notes, before you begin to make your gift. This is important

only to discover that you need weeks, or even months, to

example, ‘kitchen gifts’ has tire sub-categories ‘equipment’,

apply all the layers of varnish! The instructions for making the gifts are written so that

‘furniture’, and ‘picture’, so that you can quickly find a gift for a keen cook.

they are easy to follow and will give you the best possible result. The tinted ho.xes contain hints and notes to make

USING THE MASTER PATTERNS

the work easier, and variations on the gifts illustrated - use

Supplied with this book are five sheets of master patterns,

these to spark your imagination and create your own craft

printed on both sides. The instructions for each gift tell

works. A list of what you need is the first infonnation you

you whether you need a master pattern and what its num¬

will come to, so that you will biow what equipment and

them carefully to make an individual pattern that you can

materials you already have and what you need to buy. In

keep in case you want to use it again. On page 351 you’ll

ber is. Identify the pattern pieces on the sheet and trace

some projects we have listed trade names and specific

find a key to the master pattern pieces, so that you can be

colours for paints or knitting yarns. These were the materi¬

sure you have found all the pieces of the pattern.

als used to make the gifts illustrated. However, remember that the colours of paints and yams change from time to

GENERAL HINTS

time, sometimes every year, so you may not be able to find

Just as important as the preparation of the materials for

the exact colours specified. Craft shops and other suppliers

making a specific item is the organisation of your working

have colour charts for the major manufacturers and will

time, space and equipment. Follow a few simple rules and

be able to advise you how to choose a suitable substitute.

achieve good results every time.

For most projects, the list of what you need is followed by a reference to the technique pages at the back of the

iUways leave yourself time to do the job properly. For needlecraft and woodwork, allow enough time to mark

book. These contain basic instmctions for the major crafts

and cut pieces accurately. Many crafts require you to wait

you need to make the gifts. If you have not attempted a

while glue, paint or varnish dries before you can proceed

particular craft before, or are not completely confident

to the next step - and don’t forget that high humidity can

about your skills, read the relevant techniques section

slow down the drying process. If you are in too much of a

before beginning to make the item.

hurry, you risk wasting the time you have already put in

Then come the instructions for making the gift. These are dmded into sections, each containing a numbered

and having to start again. Your working space needs to be well organised too. If

sequence of steps. There are also step-by-step diagrams

possible, dedicate a room - or even part of a room if space

illustrating the procedures to follow.

is a problem - to the craft you are currently working on, so

The first section is usually to do with the preparation

that you don’t have to clear everything out of the way every

of your materials. Preparation is a very important part of

time you stop work. Remember too that it is important

making any craft project. If you try to save time or money

that the area where you do craft work is free of dust, well lit

by taking short cuts or using inferior materials, you may be

but protected from strong sunlight, and well ventilated.

disappointed with the final product, so be as careful with

Buy the best-quality equipment you can afford, espe¬

the preparation as you are wTen you are making and finish¬

cially if you plan to do a lot of craft work - it will save you

ing the project.

money in the end. Scissors, scalpels, pins and needles, and

After preparing the materials, you are ready for the

saws, chisels and hammers should be kept sharp and rust-

exciting part - making the gift. For simple projects, this

free. Make sure you have the right equipment for the job;

part may consist of only one section, but for more complex

craft and hardware shops are veiy^ helpful in finding the

projects there may be several sections. Just follow the num¬

right equipment or suggesting suitable substitutes.

bered sequence of steps and the diagrams. Finally, there’s a section on giving your gift a truly

If you are trying out a new craft, practise the tech¬ niques using scraps until you are satisfied that you have

professional finish. Again, follow the numbered sequence

mastered them. It takes a little e.xtra time, but you will be

of steps and you can’t go wrong.

quicker and more proficient when you come to make the gift itself.

USING THE INDEXES

There are three indexes; a gifts and crafts index, a tech¬

The Make-it-Yoitrself Gift Book is more than a source

niques index and a general index. The gifts and crafts index

of great ideas for gifts; you can also use it to improve your

lists all the projects in alphabetical order and shows which

craft skills and learn new ones. And everyone in the family

crafts you need to make them and whether there is a mas¬

will find something that they can enjoy making and giving.

ter pattern. The techniques index provides a quick ready

With some adult supervision, children can make many of

reference to the techniques section in case you need to look

the simpler projects - an excellent way of introducing them

up a particular stitch or folk art stroke, for e.xample. The

to the delights of making items that are beautiful as well as

general index divides the gifts into categories of use - for

useful, which is what craft is all about.

Babies

We all want to express our joy when a new baby is born. In this chapter you’ll hnd a great selection of gifts that you can make to welcome a new arrival and to delight the

12

BABIES

Classic christening gown What parent could resist this beautifully crafted heirloom, which will certainly be handed down for generations to come? The design is adapted from a Victorian christening gown.

2 Gather the edging lace until it measures 2.8 m, using heirloom sewing method 4. 3 Following steps A to H below, and using the appropriate heirloom sewing method, assemble a composite lace fabric about 2.8 m long by joining: A

WHAT YOU NEED Master pattern A3(a-e)» 1.5 m Swiss batiste, 115 cm wide • Swiss

rest of the fabric is used for bias and

beading (method 2) to B insertion lace

straight grain strips for the neck bind¬

(method 2) to C beading (method 3)

ing and die placket.

to D faggoting (method 3) to E bead¬

or suitable fabric laces: 12 m

Q MAKING THE LACE FABRIC

beading with entredeux, 10 mm

See the box ‘Heirloom sewing tech¬

wide, 5.6 m fabric insertion lace,

niques’ (page 16) for the methods of

30-40 mm wide, 2.8 m faggoting,

assembling the heirloom fabric. Tucked insert

to H gathered edging lace. Adjusting the skirt length can adjust the length of the skirt.

1 Measure the finished width of the

2 mm wide (for beading insertion) • 3 small pearl buttons • fine

(method 2) to G beading (method 2)

Having made the lace fabric, you

5-10 mm wide, 9 m edging lace, 40 mm wide • 13 m satin ribbon,

ing (method 2) to F insertion lace

,V.^V«^'^A^AAAA^AAAAAA.VS'VWWWWvvwwwvvvvvwvWWwwwwvww’

lace fabric. If you are making a skirt with tucks and lace edging, subtract

machine thread • coloured tacking thread • needles: fine sharp, fine

3.4 cm (this allows for three 5 mm

machine • lace pins • tracing paper*

tucks and a 4 mm seam allowance

pencil • scissors • sewing machine

to roll and whip). Cut this amount

• Technique pages 292-301, 303-4,

from the hem of the skirt.

343-4

2 For a skirt with lace edging only, subtract 4 mm (this allows a 4 mm

O CUTTING OUT THE FABRIC

1 From one long edge of the 1.7 m

seam allowance to roll and whip). Cut this amount from the hem of the skirt.

1 Using tracing paper and a pencil,

strip of batiste, measure three intervals

trace all the pattern pieces from the

2.5 cm apart. Pull a thread the whole

master pattern and cut them out.

width of the fabric at each interval.

0 MAKING THE FRONT PANEL

Make sure you transfer all markings.

(This is to ensure that the tucks are

1 From both the lace fabric and the

2 Pull a thread at each raw edge of

stitched on the straight grain.)

tucked fabric, cut the following pieces:

the batiste to find the straight grain.

2 Press folds along the pulled threads

one 40 cm wide, one 3 5 cm wide,

Following tile cutting guide, pin all

and machine 5 mm from the folds.

one 29 cm wide, one 23 cm wide, and

pattern pieces except die front panel

Roll and whip the top and bottom

one 18 cm wide. (The rest of the lace

to the fabric and cut them out.

edges of the tucked inserts, using

fabric is for the hem of the skirt.)

3 Cut a 12.5 cm snip the width of

heirloom sewing method 1.

2 Using heirloom sewing method 2, join the pieces of lace fabric and

the fabric and a 12.5 cm strip half the width of the fabric. Join these strips

Lace inserts

tucked fabric of equal width to each

selvage to selvage with a small flat

1 Cut four pieces of beading with

other. Find the vertical centres of all

seam to make a strip 12.5 cm by 1.7 ni

entredeux 2.8 m long, tw'o pieces of

five pieces of heirloom fabric and

(this will be used to make the mcked

insertion lace 2.8 m long, and a piece

mark them using a needle and

insert for the heirloom fabric). The

of edging lace 4.8 m long.

coloured tacking thread. Cutting guide Pin all the patteiii pieces except the centre front panel to the folded batiste as shoTcn, and cut them out. From the remaining fabric, cut one strip 12.5 nn X 115 an, and one strip 12.5 cm X 51.5 am, these strips will be joined and pin-tucked to make the tucked inserts for the heirloofji fabric. Use the fabric left over to cut the strip for the placket and the bias strip for the neck. Cut out the centre front panel from the assembled heirloom fabric.

lace overlapping, using method 2.

6 Cut two pieces of edging lace one-

Press the edging lace down.

and-three-quarter times the length of

4 Place the centre front of the front

the front panel (about I.?.*! m). Roll

panel pattern piece on the tacked cen¬

and whip one short end of each piece.

tre line of the heirloom fabric. Pin the pattern piece to the fabric and cut out.

5 Thread the ribbon through all the beading. Trim 6 mm of tbe 1 cm seam allowance from both sides of the front

3 Starting with the widest piece and

panel and roll and whip down each

keeping the tucked jtart uppennost,

edge (heirloom sewing method 1),

match the tacked centre lines and join

ensuring that the ends of the ribhon

all pieces together with the edging

are caught in the stitching.

14

BABIES

7

Q ASSEMBLING

Roll, whip and gather the two

pieces ot edging lace, using heirloom sewing methoil 4, and then stitch

Hint

christening gown, use a 1 cm seam

Use flat mother-of-pearl buttons

them to the long edges of the front

THE GOWN

WTien you are a.ssenibling the

allowance for all standard seams.

that will not stick into delicate

panel with the rolled and whipped short ends at the hem, using heirloom

skin and cause discomfo'it.

Skirt placket

sewing method 2.

Heirloom sewing techniques To create the heirloom fabric, you will need four basic machine sewing techniques. ' These are referred to in the instnictions as heirloom sewing methods 1,2,3 and 4. If

fahric or fabric insertion lace: With the

you have not attempted heirloom sewing

right sides together, machine zigzag a fine

before, practise these techniques on scraps

seam along the raw edges.

1 Make the

placket by machine

stitching about 4 mm down either side of the centre back to the point, taking

of fabric and lace before starting to make

one stitch across to turn at the point.

the christening gown.

Cut between the lines of stitching.

.All the techniques use die sewing machine’s zigzag function, and the aim is to join the components of die heirloom fabric together with as little bulk as possible. Set

3 Joining two straight edges

die stitch length short enough to hold the

ple, beading with entredeux to faggot¬

fabrics together securely, but not so short

ing): rriiii the edges of the laces and butt

as to fonn a closed satin stitch.

them together. Do not overlap them. Set

(for exam¬

the zigzag width to catch both laces and

To make laces easier to handle w'hen machine stitching, spray them with a com¬

machine with the right sides facing up.

mercial fabric stiffener or starch.

2

Cut a strip of batiste 22 cm x 3 cm

along the straight grain. Open the placket right out so that the stitching is in a straight line. With the right side of the strip to the wrong side of

4 Roll, whip and gather (for example, 1

RoU and whip: Place die cut edge of the

gathering lace): Proceed as for roll and

fabric about 2 mm to the right of the centi'e

whip, but place a strong thread - button¬

of the machine foot. Set the zigzag widdi

hole twist or quilting thread - under the

at 3-5 mm so that the needle will come

centre of the machine foot. Guide the

down on eidier side of the cut edge, thus

thread through the centre of the zigzag

foniiing the fabric into a fine roll.

as you work. Pull the thread up to gather

2

the lace to the required length.

ft!:-*!?

Joining beadmg with entredeux to ■ lyul':". 'I,-

,

;;;;

a

.

i.i:

the skirt, machine along the previous line of stitching. WTien you reach the point, leave the needle down, raise the presser foot and push the excess fabric back out of the wayc Low er the presser foot and finish the stitching.

3

Press down 5 mm along the raw'

edge of the strip. Fold the strip over to the right side of the skirt, place the pressed edge over the machine stitching, and machine topstitch as close to the edge as possible.

X

4 Machine stitch

X,

the end of the

placket diagonally to reinforce it, and press the placket into place.

Skirt hem

1

If you are making tucks at the

low'er edge of the skirt, sew three tucks following the steps for tucket! inserts in ‘Making the lace fabric’.

BABIES

3

15

Press the self-interfacing to the

wrong side along the fold line. Fold the back yoke over the skirt along tire button extension line and stitch the skirt to the yokes through all layers along the seam line.

4

Neaten the edges with a hne zigzag

stitch and press the seams towards tire yokes. The hnished seam will be about 4 mm wide.

Front panel to garment 1 Trim the front seam allowances of

3 With right sides together and the

the side panels to 4 mm.

lace edging aligned, machine stitch

2

Witir right sides together, attach

the underarm seams and neaten them

the front panel to the garment, using

with a fine zigzag stitch. The finished

heirloom sewing method 2. Widen

seams will be about 4 mm wide.

the zigzag to catch all three layers.

2 Join the remaining piece of lace

Shoulder seams and neck binding

fabric to the hem of the skirt, using

1

heirloom sewing method 2.

stitch the shoulder seams. Neaten the

With right sides together, machine

edges with a narrow zigzag.

Skirt to yokes

2 Cut a bias strip of batiste 4 cm wide and about 3 5 cm long. Press it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.

4

With right sides together, set the

sleeves into the annholes, matching the dots and notches and adjusting the gathers evenly. Machme stitch the seams and zigzag to neaten.

1

On both the back yoke pieces, 0 FINISHING THE GOWN

press creases along the fold hne of

1

the self-interfacing and the fold hne

3 Trim a

of the button extension.

the neck and machine stitch the bias

holes in one back yoke buttonhole

2

strip to the right side of the garment

extension, in the positions marked

ing stitches along the top edges of the

using a 5 mm seam. Wrap about 1 cm

on the master pattern. Sew the but¬

front and back skirt. With right sides

of binding around to the wrong side at

tons to tire other back yoke on

together, match the dots on the four

either side of the back opening. Fold

the centre back line, in positions to

yoke pieces and the skirt piece. Align

the binding over to the wrong side

correspond with the buttonholes.

the placket edge with the fold line of

and slipstitch it into place.

Machine two rows of large gather¬

1 cm seam allowance from

Cut the remainder of the ribbon

in half and thread the pieces through

the button extension. Adjust the gath¬ ers and machine stitch the seams.

2

Machine three horizontal button¬

Sleeves

the beading on the sleeves. Use tire

1

threaded ribbons to gather the sleeves

Using heirloom sewing method 2,

join 70 cm of beading with entredeux

slightly, and tie the ribbons in a bow.

to 70 cm of edging lace. (Do not gather the edging lace.) Cut the piece in half and attach one piece to each sleeve hem, using heirloom sewing metirod 2.

2

Sew two rows of gathering stitches

around the shoulder line of the sleeves between the dots.

Note If the laces you choose are wider or narrower than those specified, work out a plan for sewing the laces together that will give you a piece of lace fabric about 10 cm wide.

16

BABIES •

Jingle bears The bright colours, contrasting stitching and jingling bells of this string of soft bears are sure to hold a baby’s attention and will not drive mum crazy!

WHAT YOU NEED

0 CUTTING OUT THE BEARS

1

'I'race the design from the master

Master pattern A7(a) • 2 m each of

pattern, including the dots that

red, yellow and blue Russia braid •

indicate the uirning holes.

3 pieces of different coloured

2

fabric, each 15 cm X 20 cm*

tern to the fabric and cut out to make

polyester stuffing, 50 g* small

two identical bear shapes. Repeat for

quantities of stranded embroideiy

each piece of fabric.

Fold the fabric in half, pin the pat¬ Backstitch 4 Satin stitch

Y

cotton: green, yellow, blue, brow'n,

Fly stitch

•

French knot

» Spider's web stitch Q Lazy daisy stitch

black • sew ing thread to match the

^ EMBROIDERING THE BEARS

fabric • 1 m red embroidery ribbon,

1

4 mm wide • 50 cm blue

cotton and following the stitch guide,

Silk ribbon is best for ribbon embroidei j,

embroidery ribbon, 4 mm wide •

embroider the bears’ eyes in black and

as it sits and folds more smoothly and is

strong sewing thread • needles: size

their mouths and noses in brown.

easier to manage than synthetic ribboii.

8 crewel, size 20 tapestry *4 bells

2

Using two strands of embroidery

Stitch guide

Following the stitch guide, embroi¬

(enclosed safety variety) • tracing

der the tununies of the bears with the

O FINISHING

paper • pencil • scissors

ribbon and embroidery' cotton. MTrk

1

• Technique pages 292-301,

the uimmy design on the blue bear

and with right sides facing, stitch

307-14, 343-4

and the yellow bear with red ribbon in

around each bear to join the backs

Using thread to match the fabrics

spider’s web stitch, and on the third

to the fronts, leaving the sections

O plaiting the braid

bear work the minmy design in lazy

between the dots open.

1

daisy stitch using blue ribbon.

2

the work right side out.

Place the three braids side by side.

Trim and clip the curves and mm

Knot them together 4 cm from one

3

end and knot them again a further

flowers in fly stitch using two sti'ands

3

4 cm along. This fonns a loop for

of green cotton. Form the flowers

smffing. Close the opening with lad¬

attaching the toy to the pram.

w'ith French knots, using tw'o strands

der stitch and then sew across the ears,

2

Plait the three braids together to

Embroider the stems of the small

Fill the bears with polyester

of yellow embroidery cotton for two

close to the head, using mnning stitch.

make a length as wide as the pram

of the bears and two strands of blue

4

and tie off the braids. (Tw o metres

embroidery cotton for the third.

and sew each paw' to it. Sew the bells

Position the bears along the braid

of braid will make just over a metre

to the braid between the bears. Use

of plait.) Tie off the braid to fonn

strong sewing thread and attach the

another loop. Trim suiplus braid.

bells and bears very finnly.

Variation To adapt this toy for a cot, lengthen the plaited braid to match the width of the cot and add extra bears as I'equired. For each additional hear you will need 1) cm X 20 cm of coloured fabric and a bell, plus a stnall quantity of filling.

BABIES

New baby sampler The birth of a baby is a very special time for parents, and what better way to mark the occasion than with this crossstitch sampler? Mounted in a suitable frame, it makes a unique and lasting gift.

WHAT YOU NEED Master pattern J68(a-b) • 50 cm X 45 cm 14 gauge aida cloth • stranded cotton: Anchor colours 1 (white), 11 (red), 24 (pink), 216 (green), 293 (yellow), 313 (orange), 355 (light hrown), 382 (dark hrown), 9159 (hlue)« coloured tacking thread • needle: size 24 tapestry* embroidery hoop • picture frame with an inside measurement of 41 cm X 36.5 cm* A2 white backing board * A2 mounting board * linen carpet thread or fine, strong string (for mounting) * craft knife * steel rule * tracing paper * scissors * pencil *

be able to fit more than 12 characters

0 FRAMING THE SAMPLER

tape measure * spray glue

across the sampler, so use only the

1

• Technique pages 309, 343-4

child’s given name if necessary.

side through a damp cloth, being

Mark the mid-point of your tracings.

very careful not to stretch the fabric

O making the sampler

2

or the stitching.

1

to the centre point of the design in

2

sew or machine zigzag the raw edges.

the space provided at the top of the

steps described in ‘Wedding day

2

sampler. Embroider the letters using

sampler’ (pages 194—5).

Iron the aida cloth and hand over¬

.Mark the vertical and horizontal

Match the mid-point of the name

centre lines with tacking stitches.

colours of your choice, starting fi'om

3

the middle and working outwards.

Following the stitch and colour

guide on the master pattern, work the

3

border design. This becomes a refer¬

baby’s birth, embroidering in the

Repeat step 2 for the date of the

ence point for the rest of the design.

space provided at the base of the

4

sampler. You may need to shorten

Complete the design, working

one small area at a time and following

Press the sampler on the wrong

To frame the sampler, follow the

Note For some tips on counted crossstitch, timi to Wedding day sntnpler' (pages 194-5).

the name of the month.

the stitch and colour guide carefully. When you are embroidering the baby's name and date of birth, begin at the O personalising THE SAMPLER

1 On

tracing paper, mle a straight

line to act as a guide. From the master pattem for cross-stitch letters, trace

'Ut. mid-point of the line of text and work outwards to the sides of the sample xxxxx xxxxxx xxxxxxx xxxxxx xxxxx^ X XX xxxxx XX X XXX X X XX XXX^ X X X„x xyxx xxX g gxx XX X X X X X XXX XXXX XXX xxxxxx XXX xxxxxx XXX X

xxxxx

SxX)

XXX

X X

X

XX

g

XX

X X X XXX

X X X

xxxxxx xxxxx. X X X XXX ^xxx^ X X

$

the letters of the baby’s name and the date of birth. Leave a space the width of two cross-stitches between letters and a space equivalent to four crossstitches between words. You will not

XXX X X X XX X X X X X X X X X X X xxxx^ X XXXXX x^

X

X xxx^ XX "X X XX X

1

""xxxl

^xxxl X

9

1 X

x^

y.9x

g

xxxxx^ XXX

^

X

17

18

BABIES

Beniamin Bear Every young child loves a teddy bear as a friend. This appealing mohair bear is fully jointed and stands 27 cm tall. A colourful neck bow is the pei'fect finishing touch.

WHAT YOU NEED Master pattern C23(a-j) • 65 cm

x

30 cm mohair fabric* tno 8 mm perspex safety eyes • joint set: two 30 mm wooden discs, eight 25 mm wooden discs, five M5 X 25 mm machine screws, five M5 lock nuts, 10 small washers* 15 cm

x

15 cm

felt* sewing thread to match mohair fabric * black and brown embroidery cotton * coarse thread or w axed dental floss * polyester stuffing, about 300 g* needles: general sewing, size 22 cbenille (for embroidery), size 18 tapestry (for closing seams) * dressmaking pins* 50 cm ribbon, 25 mm wade* tracing paper* pencil * fabric mark¬ er * sewing machine * fine-pointed scissors * pocket spanner (for lock nuts) * screw driver * chopstick • Technique pages 292-301, 343-4

Cutting guide Cut the body pieces from mohair fabric and the pan's and foot pads fi'0f?r felt.

O TRACING THE PATTERN

1 Trace the pattern pieces from the master pattern on to tracing paper, tracing reverse pattern pieces where indicated. Transfer all the arrow's, markings, lettered points and stanbols.

2 Cut carefully around the outline of each piece. @ CUTTING OUT

1 Establish the direction of the pile of the mohair fabric by running your hand over it. It will feel smooth when your hand is moving in the direction of the pile. Lay all the pattern pieces in the same direction as the pile.

BABIES

Note A 6 mm seam allowance is included in the pattern. As you pin the pieces of fabric together, push the pile away from the cut edge. You can sew the bear with a sewing machine (except for the last stages) or by hand, using backstitch and strong thread.

from D to F and E to G. Pin across

Pin and sew from K to L and M to N

the opening EG at the top of the head,

leaving an opening between L and M.

but do not stitch.

3 Using a strong thread, run a gath¬ ering stitch by hand around the base of the neck. Draw up the ends of the thread tightly and secure.

4 Turn the work right side out and make small holes with pointed scissors at the positions marked for the eyes.

5 Match the foot pad centre O to

Push the shafts of the safety eyes

the centre seam of the leg (N). Ease

through the holes and click die

the foot pad to fit the leg snugly, and

2 With the wrong side of the mohair

safety discs on to the shafts on the

sew. Turn tire work to the right side.

fabric facing up, pin each pair of pat¬

wrong side of the fabric.

6

tern pieces 1 to 8 on to the fabric,

5 With right sides facing, pin ear

pad to the other leg.

following the cutting guide in the

pieces together in pairs. Sew around

panel on page 18. Make sure the

the curv'ed edge of each ear, but not

arrows marked on the pattern pieces

along the base. Turn right side out.

follow the direction of the pile.

6 At the base of each ear, fold the

3 Trace around each pattern piece

raw edges approximately 5 mm

with the fabric marker. Transfer all

to the inside and oversew by hand.

markings, including the positions of

Put the ears aside for later use.

Repeat steps 3 and 4 to sew the

Body

joints and eyes.

4 Cut out the mohair pieces with the

Arms and legs

fine-pointed scissors, taking care not to cut through the pile of the mohair.

5 Pin pairs of pattern pieces 9 and 10 to the felt, trace around them with tire fabric marker and cut out.

0

SEWING

1 With right sides of fabric facing,

Head and ears

pin and sew the back panels together from P to Q and R to S, leaving an

1 Matching H on the felt paw pad to

opening between Q and R.

El on the arm, and with right sides of

2 With right sides of fabric facing,

the fabrics together, pin and sew the

pin and sew the front panels together

paw to the inner arm.

from T to S.

2 hold the arm in half lengthwise, so that the right sides of fabric are facing. Pin and sew around the top of the arm

1 With the right sides of the fabric

and down around the felt paw pad,

together, pin and stitch the centre

leaving an opening between I and J.

front seam under the chin from A to

Turn the work to the right side.

B and the top of the head to the sides

3 Repeat steps 1 and 2 to sew

of the head from A to C.

a paw pad to the other arm.

3 With right sides facing, pin and sew the fi-ont body piece to the back body piece, matching the points at

2 Pin and sew the back of the head to

4 hold the leg in half lengthwise, so

U on both sides and also matching

the front and side head piece, sewing

tliat right sides of the fabric are facing.

the seams at the crotch (S).

19

20

BABIES

Bear personality

When \'()u einhroiticr the fnce on to yonr he;ir, give some thought to the expression you want to achieve. Try sketching the Face on pajter First, experimenting with the shajic and position of the nose and mouth. Keep the shapes simple and when you are happy with your Face, start embroidering from the centre oF the nose, Following vour sketch.

4 Wdth a strong, coarse thread, mn a

opening, place on the screw another

0

gathering stitch by hand around the

piece of felt, a 30 mm wooden disc,

1 Using the chopstick, stuff the an^ns

FINISHING

top of neck. Draw up the ends tightly

a washer and a lock nut.

and legs finnly, making sure that the

and secure with a knot. Turn the work

4 Finger-tighten the lock nut. Using

polyester filling is pushed well dow'n

to the right side.

a single socket spanner, continue to

into the paws and feet. Be careful not

tighten the lock nut until it feels snug.

to push the stuffing tool through the

O ASSEMBLING THE BEAR

Use a screwdriver, through the open¬

felt paw' pads.

1 On to a screw, put a washer and

ing at the top of die head, to prevent

2 (dose all seam openings in the

then a 30 mm wooden disc and a ring

the machine screw' from turning.

limbs w'ith ladder stitch, using coarse

of felt cut a little larger than the disc.

5 Using fine-pointed scissors, care¬

thread or waxed dental floss.

The felt will prevent the disc from

fully make holes through the fabric at

Embroider black claw^s on the paw's

rubbing and weakening the fabric.

the joint marks on the inner anns ami

with straight stitch, securing the

2 Place the screw into the head

legs and on the hotly.

thread w'ith tiny backstitches.

through the opening at the top. Push

6 Follow' steps 1 to 4 above to make

3 Stuff the body firmly, being careful

the shaft through the gathered edge

the arm joints. Use the smaller

to push plenty of stuffing around the

of the neck so that the end of the

wooden discs and position the joints

neck, ami and leg joints, (dose the

screw protrudes from the base of the

by working through the openings in

opening in the back in the same way

head. Then push the protruding screw

the limbs and back. Make sure that

as for the limbs.

through the gathered neck opening

the joints are screw ed firmly together,

4 Stuff the head firmly, moulding

at the top of the body. 3 Reaching through the back body

othei-wise the arms and legs w'ill sottn

it into shape as you go. (dose the

begin to flop.

opening on top of the head.

5 WTrk the nose w'ith brown Voii an? buy a joint set

embroidety' cotton. Secure the thread

f?’om specialist a'lift stoixs.

with a knot in the centre of the nose

The set consists of five

area. Ffsing closely spaced satin stitch,

j()i??ts\ used to make the 1

' 4

go over and over the same area until

neck, ant? and leg joints

the nose is built up. To finish, fasten

rigid. Assemble the joints

oft the thread by running the needle

as shown in the diagram.

back and forth undemeath the satin

Make sure the bottom nuts

stitches to catch the material.

tire firmly screwed home, or

6 Pin the ears into position and

the limbs will tetid to fop.

ladder stitch them to the head. Remember that different positions for the eyes and ears can completely change the look of the bear.

7 Tie the ribbon in a bow' round the bear’s neck. Choose ribbon in a bright colour or a bold pattern, such as tartan or Paisley.

Embroidered baby’s vests Buy inexpensive cotton vests and transform them into a beautiful, personalised present for a small baby by working simple designs on the vests using coloured cottons and a few easy stitches.

WHAT YOU NEED Baby’s vests, short-sleeved and long-sleeved • stranded embroidery cotton: DMC colours white (blanc), colour or colours of your choice • embroidery marking pen • needles: size 7 crewel, size 7 straw or milliner’s • Technique pages 307-12, 343-4

When you are working the embroi¬ dery, use the straw needle for the bullion knots and the crewel needle for all other stitches. O bunny vests Embroidering the armholes

1 Fold the vest in half to find tire centre. Using the embroidery mark¬ ing pen, mark positions for the French knots so that they are evenly spaced around the armholes. Avoid the armpit area, as the embroidery may irritate the baby’s skin. 2 With three strands of embroidery cotton in your chosen colour, work French knots at the marked positions, mnning the thread behind the fabric and on to the next stitch.

Embroidering the bunnies

1 Find the centre front point of the neck. Using an embroidery marking pen, mark the positions of the bun¬ nies. Place the centre bunny slightly lower than the other two. 2 Using three strands of embroidery cotton in your chosen colour, work the bodies with four bullion knots, turning the thread around the needle 10 times. Make the necks with two bullion knots, turning the thread SLx times. Make one bullion knot for each ear, turning the thread five times. 3 Work the tail using three strands of white embroidery cotton and straight stitch.

Q LONG-SLEEVED VEST

Stitch guide To work the designs, trace and transfer the diagrams above. The bunny is made up of eight bullion stitches and two straight .stitches. Follow the stitch key below for the flower bouquet.

^

Padded satin stitch

Bullion rose

ff Satin stitch flower

Lazy daisy stitch

French knot flower Bullion rosebud

Backstitch •

French knot

thread five times round the needle for the centre bullion laiots and seven times for the two outer bullion knots.

Embroidering the neckline

Embroidering the body

Using two sti'ands of embroidery cotton in your chosen colour, work chain stitch around the neckline.

1 Following the stitch guide, and using colours of your choice, work the design on the body of the vest. 2 To make the bow, backstitch the outline with two strands and work the centre in padded satin stitch using three strands. Make the surrounding French knots using three strands. 3 Work the roses in bullion knots, turning the thread around the needle six times for the centres and 12 times for the outside petals. 4 Work the half-open roses with three bullion knots. 5 Make the French knot flowers with three strands. Start by working a central knot, and then make five or six knots around the edge. 6 To make the lazy daisy flower petals, use two strands. Repeat for the other three petals. The bud is one French knot using three strands. 7 To make the satin stitch buds, work a central French knot using three strands of embroidery cotton. WTrk the four surrounding petals in satin stitch using two strands. 8 Work the individual French knots using three strands.

Embroidering the sleeves

1 Mark the positions of the seven bullion rosebuds so that they are evenly spaced around the wrists. 2 Embroider the rosebuds in the colours of your choice, turning the

22

BABIES

‘B is for Baby’ quilt Hint

This quilt, measuring 90 cm x 125 cm, is embroidered

Use an embroidery hoop to work

in traditional cream on cream using simple embroidery

the embroidery

stitches. It is an ideal gift for either a girl or a boy.

blocks of fabric. You will not

07i

the square

need an embroidety hoop for the border paitels, since only a few

WHAT YOU NEED

(backing); B six 36 cm squares

colonial knots are worked there.

(emhroideiy' blocks); C turn

Master pattern A2(a-h) *2.5 m

92 cm X 13 cm strips (end borders);

quilter’s muslin or calico, 150 cm

D two 104 cm

wide • 7 m heavy, double-edged,

borders); E two 95 cm x 9 cm strips

cream cotton lace, 60 mm wide •

(end bindings); F two 128 cm x 9 cm

1 Arrange the blocks in position.

Coton a broder (the same colour

strips (side bindings). 2 Fold and quarter the embroidery

With right sides facing, stitch the

batting • cream quilting thread •

blocks and borders to find the centres,

the pairs, matching the seam lines.

cream machine sewing thread •

and mark the centre of each piece.

as the fabric) • 100 cm

x

150 cm

X

ASSEMBLING THE

EMBROIDERED FABRIC

blocks together in pairs, then join

2 Mflth right sides facing, sew the side border strips to the centre panel.

needle: chenille size 22 • dress¬ making pins‘large embroidery

0

13 cm strips (side

0 EMBROIDERING THE FABRIC

Then sew' the top and bottom borders

hoop • tracing paper • black felt-

1 Using tracing paper and the black

to the centre panel and side borders.

tipped pen • water-erasable fabric

felt-tipped pen, trace a working design

Trim if necessary.

marking pen • scissors • sewing

from the master pattern.

3 Place the work face down on a

thread to match calico and lace •

2 Match the centre of each embroi¬

tow'el and press from the back.

sewing machine

dery block and border wdth the centre

•

of the appropriate working design and

Technique pages 292-301,

O ATTACHING THE LACE

pin them together with the fabric on

1 M^ash and press the lace to

top. Note that the bunny, bear and

preshrink it. From the 7 m length

O PREPARING THE FABRIC

bluebird look best if they face into

of double-edged lace, cut twn 70 cm

1 Fold the quilter’s muslin in half

the centre of the quilt.

strips and one 104 cm strip.

lengthwise, selvage to selvage, and cut

3 Place the fabric and design on a

2 Fold under 5 mm at each end of

out the following pieces, as shown in

light box or tape it fimily to a window.

the lace strips. Using a medium zig¬

the diagram Cutting out the fabric:

Using the fabric marking pen, trace

zag stitch, machine down the centre

A one 100 cm x 150 cm piece

the design on to the fabric.

of the lace in the least obrious place,

4 Embroider the designs, following

attaching the twn shorter strips along

the stitch guides given on the master

the horizontal seam lines of the centre

pattern pieces.

panel and the long strip down the

307-12, 343-4

5 WTien the embroideiy' is complete,

vertical seam of the centre panel.

w'ash out any transfer marks. Dry the

The folded ends of the lace, which

work flat and press the pieces Irom

will extend beyond the edges of the

the back on a towel.

centre panel, will be secured in step 3.

Cutting out the fabric

Pattern pieces include a 1 cm B

seam allowance. I'he sizes given

B

B

B

are those you need to construct the quilt. You can cut the fahric

B

blocks larger for easy handling

A

C

End borders

trim them to the correct size after

D

Side borders

rinsing and pressing. Cut die

E

End bindings

in a large embroider}' hoop, then

Embroidery blocks

Backing

liorder strips a little longer to

F Side bindings

allow a safety margin, and trim

j

them to size after sewing each

Alloiv plenty of time to measure, cut and mark the pattern pieces accurately. You will save yourself

pair of strips to the blocks.

time and frustration later on, and the result will be a professional finish that will delight you.

BABIES

The six motifs are worked on separate blocks of fabric that are stitched together. The whole panel is framed with long strips of fabric and then the embroidered blocks are bordered with lace.

6 Repeat step 5 to attach the binding to the bottom edge of the quilt. Trim the wadding and the backing fabric at the top and bottom edges ot the quilt

3 Use the remainder of the lace

larger than the top fabric. Tack all

to stitch a border around the centre

three layers together by hand.

7 Turn under a 1.5 cm hem and

panel, securing the ends of the other

2 Using a small running stitch, hand

slipstitch the back of the binding

lace strips in the process and mitring

quilt around the outlines of the motifs.

strips into place along the row of

the raw edges neatly.

3 Hand quilt around each block,

machine stitching. Trim the ends

4 Carefully press the finished piece

securing the lace edges as you go.

of the binding level with the edges

from the back over a towel.

Handstitch any remaining loose edges

of the quilt.

of lace to the top layer.

8 Repeat steps 5 to 7 to attach the

4 Fold all the binding strips in half

long pieces of binding to the sides

1 Lay the backing piece out flat with

lengthwise, wrong sides facing, and

of the quilt, trimming the ends of

the wrong side facing up. Tape or pin

press, then open the pieces out again.

the binding so that they extend

Q ASSEMBLING THE QUILT

and fold the bindings to the back.

the wadding on to it and then lay the

5 Working first with a short piece

about 1.5 cm beyond the edge.

embroidered fabric over the top,

of binding, pin the binding to the top

9 Fold the ends back into the binding

right side facing up. Pin all the layers

edge of the quilt, right sides facing,

and slipstitch them neatly into place,

together, matching the centres. Note

and machine stitch through all layers,

keeping the stitching at the back of

that the backing and the wadding are

allowing a 1.5 cm seam.

the quilt and the corners square.

23

24

BABIES •

Soft animal toys

cuiwing section. Machine stitch along

rhe soft and simple animal toys in this project are designed to

Stitch again for strength.

the seam line, 5 mm from the edges.

stimulate a baby’s senses. You can make them as clutch toys for

5 (dip the curves and notch the seam

tiny babies or rattle toys for older babies, or as flat bath toys or

allowance in the tight corners, taking care not to cut the stitching. 'Tie and

teething aids.

cut off the loose threads.

WHAT YOU NEED

'These toys are an ideal gift for a new

0 MAKING THE BELL

baby. They are portable, washable, and

OR RATTLE

Master pattern B13(a-f)

inexpensive to make using scraps fixjin

The bell

Clutch toys

the ragbag or the remnant bin.

Enclose the bell in a little pillow' of

Scraps of closely woven fabric •

foam sheeting so that the toy w’ill be

fabric scraps: seersucker, taffeta,

Clutch toys

safe for the baby to play with.

satin or heavily napped fabric • sewing thread• polyester stuffing* fabric paints or black embroidery

O making the toy

cotton • needles: size 6 sharp, size 7

1 Using tracing paper and scissors,

crew el • dressmaking pins • scissors

trace and cut the .shape you have

• blunt implement (e.g. chopstick) •

selected from the master pattern.

tracing paper • pencil • sewing

2 Cut a pair of shapes from the fab¬

machine*small ball-shaped bell

ric, making sure that the straight grain

and piece of 6 mm foam sheeting

nans the same w ay for both shapes.

1 LLing a needle, attach a double

3 cm X 6 cm (for a bell), or small

3 Using fabric paints or embroidery

thread to the bell. Place the bell on

plastic screw'-on lid 3-4 cm in

thread, add facial details or decorative

the foam and fold the foam over

diameter, small flat button and

features to the right side of the fabric.

so that the bell and the thread are

piece of interfacing or firmly

Remember that the larger the area

enclosed in the fold.

woven fabric (for a rattle)

covered bv paint, the more difficult

Bath toys

the shape wall be to turn right side

60 cm X 30 cm terry towelling or 2

out. Do not paint within the 5 mm

flannels, 30 cm X 30 cm* 6 mm

seam allowance. Let the paint diya

foam sheeting, 30 cm X 30 cm* needles: size 6 sharp, size 7 crewel * sewing thread * embroidery threads * tracing paper * pencil * scissors * dressmaking pins * sewang

2 Securely handstitch the edges

machine

of the foam together to fonn a little

^Technique pages 292-301, 307-12, 343-4

pillow containing the bell. The rattle

1 Cut a circle of fabric or interfacing 4 With right sitles of the fabric hie¬

5 mm larger in diameter than the

ing, pin the shapes together, leaving

container lid and another circle 5 mm

a 4 cm opening on a straight, gently

larger in diameter than die first.

Variation The siniple shapes that make up this set of toys can be pant of a whole range of matching gifts. They can be used as motifs for quilts, pillowcases and cunains, or as .Pencils for furniture, to give a baby's room that totally

2 Place the lid on the smaller circle

coordinated look.

of fabric, put a button in the lid, and cover with the larger circle.

Pin the paper pattern in position and cut out the shape. Keeping the shapes together, pin them to the foam sheet¬ ing. Cut tire foam to shape.

3 Keeping all layers pinned togedier, machine stitch along the seamline 5 mm from the edges, leaving a 4 cm implement to push out the pointed

opening on a gently curving section.

sections at the extremities.

Stitch again for strength.

2 Fill the toy with the polyester stuff¬

4 Turn the toy right side out, using

ing. Start with the extremities and

the blunt implement to push out any

make sure not to oversmff. The toy

pointed sections. Close the opening

should be flattish, not bulky.

by hand, using ladder stitch.

3 Insert the bell or ratde. Complete

5 Topstitch with matching or con¬

3 Using doubled thread, handstitch

the smffing and then close the open¬

trasting thread 5 mm fi'om die edge.

the circles together to enclose the lid

ing with ladder stitch or whip stitch.

Add details with embroidery.

and the button.

4 Sew around the circles again to make the fabric fit tightly against the

Bath toys

lid. If the fabric is not pulled tight, the stuffing will push into the lid and the

O making the bath toy

rattle will not work.

1 Using the tracing paper and scis¬ sors, trace and cut a broad, simple

0 FINISHING THE TOY

shape fi'om the master pattern.

1 Turn the fabric shape right side

2 Place two flannels or pieces of teriy

out. You will need to use the blunt

towelling together, right sides facing.

Hint

A tenj towelling bath toy can be a?i excellent teethhig aid. Simply dainpen the fabric and chill the toy in. the refrigerator to make a safe, soothing object for a teething baby to suck on.

26

BABIES

Rocking horse overalls

© SEWING THE YOKE

Designed for an energetic

it with a damp cloth and press it care¬

wrong sides of one main fabric front

one-year-old, these overalls

fully with a warm iron.

yoke and one main fabric back yoke.

are a practical and attractive

4 (lentre the pattern piece tor the

gift to make for a busy baby.

cross-stitched jianel on the cro.ss-

1 Fuse the yoke interfacings to the

stitched linen by matching the centre front of the pattern piece with the ver¬ tical tacked line. Pin die partem piece

WHAT YOU NEED __ __:_uu_

A

Master pattern A4(a-e) • 1.5 m light

to the linen and cut out the panel. Remove the tacking threads.

to medium weight fabric, 115 cm

5 (lover the piping cord with bias

wide *15 cm X 40 cm even-weave

binding, using the machine zip foot

linen for cross-stitch (26 threads to

and machining close to the cord. On

main fabric front yokes together, .start

2.5 cm) • 30 cm lightweight iron-on

the right side of the neck edge of the

machining the amihole 5 cm below

2 With the right sides of the two

interfacing* 2.5 m fine piping cord*

embroidered panel, lay the piping

the shoulder. Sew' up to the shoulder,

2.5 Ill bias binding, to complement

along the seam allowance line. Using

along the shoulder, around the neck¬

the main fabric * 2 buttons (15

the zip foot, machine the piping to

line and along the other shoulder, fin¬

mm), to match bias binding*

the panel.

ishing at the same point on the odier

Anchor stranded embroidery

6 Fold and press the seam allowance

amihole. Notch and clip the seam.

thread: 376 (beige), 380 (brown),

to the back so that the piping lies

3 Turn the front yoke right side

109 (mauve), 928 (duck egg blue)

along the edge of the fold.

out and press. Ensuring that the front yoke piece is sitting free of the inter¬

(or a colour scheme of your choice)

faced front yoke and that the neck

* sewing thread to match fabric* needles: tapestry, general sewing* embroidery frame (optional) *

Notes

• Seam^ allowances are 1 cm.

scissors * tracing paper * pencil *

• Finish all seams with over¬

dressmaker’s pencil * sewing

locking or zigzag.

machine * dressmaking pins

•

Technique pages 292-301, 309, 343-4 O CUTTING OUT THE FABRIC

1 Using tracing paper, pencil and scissors, trace all the pattern pieces from the master pattern. Make sure that all markings are transferred.

2 Pin the pattern pieces on to die main fabric, following the cutting guide, and cut them out. Do not cut the linen for the front panel piece.

3 From the interfacing, cut out one front yoke, one back yoke and two leg bands. Q MAKING THE FRONT PANEL

1 To centre the cross-sritch design, measure and mark the horizontal and vertical centre lines of the linen with coloured tacking thread. The intersec¬ tion of the lines is the centre point.

2 Using two strands of embroidery thread, follow' the stitch and colour guide to work the rocking horse.

3 Wdien you have finished the crossstitch, place the work face down, cover

mrnings are pressed dow'n, tack the cross-stitched panel to the right side of the front yoke piece just below the horizontal edge of the neckline so that the piping sits up over the

BABIES

Stitch and colour guide

Embroider the linen panel before

by tacking the horizontal and vertical

sewing it on to the front yoke of the

centre lines, and then follow the

overalls. Find the centre of the panel

colour and stitch guide below.

finished edge. Topstitch the crossstitched panel into place across the front yoke from armhole to armhole.

4 Turn the front yoke inside out as far as necessary. With right sides fac¬ ing, sew the front of the yoke to the back along the side seams. Repeat for the yoke facings. Press seams open. the top edge of the pants, matching

interfaced leg bands to the lower

centre points and side seams. Pull up

edges of the piped leg bands. Press

the gathering and adjust the gathers

down a 1 cm hem along die other

evenly. The piping will be sandwiched

edges of the interfaced leg bands.

in the seam. Using the zip foot, stitch

4 Around the calf edges, match the

around the seam. Trim the seam and

inner leg seams of the pants to the leg

press it up into the yoke.

band seams, widi right sides together

5 Machine the remainder of the yoke

2 Slipstitch the pressed edge of the

and raw edges aligned. Pull up the

to the facing in one continuous seam,

interfaced yoke over the seam.

gathers and adjust evenly. Using the zip foot, stitch the leg bands to the

blending the seam into the previous stitching at the upper front armholes.

© LEG BANDS

legs in the same way as you stitched

Press the lower edge of the yoke fac¬

1 Iron the leg band interfacings to

the yoke to the top of the pants.

ing up 1 cm. Attach piping around

the wrong sides of two of the leg

5 Slipstitch the pressed edges of

the lower edge of the right side of the

bands. With right sides facing, stitch

the interfaced leg bands to the

main yoke along the seam line, as for

all four leg band seams. Press open.

wrong sides over the seam line.

the embroidered panel in step 3.

2 Pin and stitch covered piping cord

6

to the right sides of tlie long edges of

Q FINISHING

neckline turnings. Turn the work

the outside leg bands (not interfaced),

Machine stitch vertical buttonholes

right side out and press.

using the zip foot.

in the back shoulder straps. Sew the

3 With right sides together, and

buttons to the front shoulder straps,

using the zip foot, machine the

aligning them with the buttonholes.

Clip and notch the armhole and

O SEWING THE PANTS

1 With right sides together, machine the front and back inside leg and side seams. Zigzag to finish, and press the

Cutting guide Cut two of each piece from the main fabric. To cut the yokes, trace around the pat¬

seams towards the back.

tern pieces on to the fabric with the dressmaker's pencil and then flip the pattern

2 With right sides together, place

pieces, as shown by the dotted lines. For the embroideredpatiel, use a piece of line?i

one leg inside the other and stitch the

25 cm

crotch seam from the centre front to the centre back. Zigzag to finish, and press to one side. 3 Machine two rows of gathering stitches around the upper edge and the calf edges of the pants. © SEWING THE YOKE TO THE PANTS

1 With right sides facing, pin the lower edge of the outside yoke to

X

40 cm and work the cross-stitch e?Jibroideiy before cutting out the patteni.

27

28

BABIES

Cot blanket

Stitch and colour guide

E'ind the centre of the square you

point, cross-stitch the motif in the

intend to work in and match it with

colours specified by matching the

Made by embroidering

the centre of the motif on the grid

stitches in your crocheted square

crocheted panels, this

below. Starting from the centre

to the squares on the grid below.

attractive little blanket will keep baby wami during those first months and then will become a treasured ‘cover-up’ for naps. It measures about 75 cm X 110 cm.

WHAT YOU NEED Yam: 19 balls Patons 4 ply

■Ili”il|3 = = == _IH_III_

Fairytale (50 g balls) • Anchor stranded embroidery cotton: 8 skeins 336 (apricot), 3 skeins 976 (pale blue), 3 skeins 978 (dark blue), 1 skein 338 (terracotta), 1 skein 403 (black) • crochet hook:

ni!>

3.50 mm (no. 9) • needle: size 20 chenille • dressmaker’s pencil

•

Technique pages 307-12, 320-2,

327

■ijiPiii

I

CHECKING THE TENSION

Before you begin, check your tension for both plain and lace crochet so that the measurements of the finished arti¬

■HI'

lljllEE

cle will be as close as possible to the specified size. Using a .3.50 mm cro¬ chet hook, you should have 24 double cnjchets and 2 7 rows t(J a 10 cm

blanket has been designed to be

Lace square

square of plain crochet and 11 pat¬

worked on a bigger hook at a looser

1st row: 2 ch, 1 htr in each of first

terns and 12 rows to a 10 cm .square

tension than is usually recommended.

2 dc, ★ 2 ch, miss 1 dc, 1 htr in next dc, rep irom ★ to last dc, 1 htr in last

of lace crochet. If you have fewer stitches, use a smaller hook; if you

CROCHETING THE PANELS

dc to make 10 sps.

have more, use a bigger hook. The

The blanket is made up of seven

2nd row: (1 dc, 1 ch) in first htr, 1 tr

SPECIAL TERMS

Cluster: ★ yoh, draw up a loop in ne.xt 2 ch sp, yoh and draw through first 2 loops on hook, rep from ★ twice in same 2 ch sp, yoh and draw through all 4 loops on hook. Crab stitch: Crab stitch is like double crochet, except that it is worked from left to right instead of right to left, so that the stitches are worked backw'ards.

panels, each consisting of 10 alternat¬

in next htr, cluster in first 2 ch sp, ★ 1

ing squares of plain and lace crochet.

ch, miss 1 htr, cluster in ne.xt 2 ch sp,

The first panel begins with a plain

rep from ★ to last 2 htr, 1 tr in each of

square and the second begins with

last 2 htr.

a lace square. Alake four of the first

3rd row: 2 ch, 1 htr in each of first

panel and three of the second.

2 tr, 2 ch, miss cluster, ★ 1 htr in next 1 ch sp, 2 ch, miss cluster, rep fi'om ★

O first panel

Plain square

to last 2 sts, I htr in next tr, 1 htr in top of turning ch.

Loosely work 24 ch. 1st row: Miss 1 ch, 1 dc in each ch

Rep 2nd anti 3rd rows 5 times, t

to end to make 23 dc.

Plain square

2nd row: ★★ 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc to end.

2 htr, ★ 1 tic in 2 ch sp, 1 dc in next

Rep 2nd row 25 times.

htr, rep from ★ to last htr, 1 dc in

1st row: 1 ch, 1 dc in each of first

BABIES

O embroidering THE DESIGNS

1 Find the centre of each of the squares to be embroidered by using the dressmaker’s pencil to mark the point where the diagonals cross. Match these centre points to tlie centre points of the embroidery designs and work the embroidery, treating tbe rows and stitches on the square as the cross-stitch grid.

2 Following the stitch and colour guide, and using the diagram below' for tbe position of each motif, work the cross-stitch designs on tire plain squares in the four first panels.

3 Using the black stranded cotton, outline the hands and faces in back¬ stitch and French knots, as shown on the stitch and colour guide. © FINISHING OFF

With the right side of the w'ork facing, work three rounds of double crochet and then one round of crab stitch around the outside edge of the blanket to make a border. Increase or decrease as necessary to keep the work flat. The blanket consists of seven panels, with 10 squares in each panel. Alternate panels start with a plain square or a lace square. Ejnbroider the motifs on the blanket after sewing the panels together.

last htr to make 23 dc. ★★

to make 23 dc.

Rep from ★★ to ★★ 4 times, finishing

2nd row: 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc to end

at t at end of last rep.

Rep 2nd row 25 times, tt

Fasten off. (Make 4 of these panels altogether.)

Lace square 1st row: 2 ch, 1 htr in each of first

^ SECOND PANEL

2 dc, ★ 2 ch, miss 1 dc, 1 htr in next

Lace square

dc, rep from ★ to last dc, 1 htr in last

Loosely work 25 ch.

dc to make 10 sps. ★★★

1st row: Miss 2 ch, 1 htr in each of next 2 ch, ★ 2 ch, miss 1 ch, 1 htr in

Rep from ★★★ to ★★★ 4 times, fin¬

next ch, rep from ★ to last ch, 1 htr

ishing at tt at end of last rep.

in last ch to make 10 sps.

Fasten off.

2nd and 3rd rows: ★★★ Work as for

(Make 3 of these panels altogether.)

2nd and 3rd row's of lace square in 1st panel 6 times.

^MAKING UP

1 Arrange the seven panels, Plain square

alternating first and second pan

1st row: 1 ch, 1 dc in each of first 2

els as shown. Do not press.

htr, ★ 1 dc in 2 ch sp, 1 dc in next htr,

2 Join the panels using a flat

rep from ★ to last htr, 1 dc in last htr

seam and matching yam.

29

30

BABIES

Daisy & bee baby’s outfit A bright bee and delicate daisy motif attracts the eye immediately on this dainty dress and bonnet. The embroidery design is worked mainly in shadow stitch. The outfit consists of a plain dress of Swiss batiste and a bonnet and an embroidered sheer collar trimmed with lace. It is designed to fit an average one-year-old.

WHAT YOU NEED

3 Using the water-soluble marker,

1 Place the organdie in the embroi¬

trace the front collar pattern on to

dery hoop, making sure that the fabric

the organdie. Then lightly trace the

is protected by the interfacing circles

sewing machine thread • stranded

embroidery design on to the organdie.

and the design is centred in the hoop.

embroidery cotton: 3 shades green,

4 Remove the traced paper pattern.

(See page 32 for a note on working

2 shades pink, yellow, orange

To allow for the fabric to be held in

with sheer fabrics in a hoop.)

black, pale grey* embroidery^ hoop*

the embroidery hoop, do not cut out

20 cm

the collar piece yet. If you are using

Master pattern Al(a-i) • fine

X

40 cm non-woven

Daisies

interfacing (to protect fabric) • fine

silk organza, overcast the edges of

1 Choose a pale pink for open flow¬

embroidery needles • dressmaking

the rectangle to minimise fraying.

ers and mid pink for closed flow'ers

tracing paper • scissors • pencil •

^ EMBROIDERING THE COLLAR

plete a w'hole flower.

tape measure • sewing machine

V\Trk the whole design with two

2 \\Trk the daisy centres in shadow'

Dress

strands of embroidery cotton. The

stitch using yellow thread. Work the

and use a 50 cm long thread to com¬

pins • water-soluble marker pen •

1.2 m Swiss batiste, 115 cm wide*

leaves are worked in three shades of

petals in pistil stitch. Begin from the

30 cm pure cotton organdie or

green and the daisies are worked in

centre of the blossom on the right side

pure silk organza, 115 cm wide

tw'o shades of pink.

of the fabric. Follow only one line of

(for the collar) * 1 m woven cotton edging lace, 9 mm wide * 2 motherof-pearl shank buttons (for the collar), 6 mm diameter* 3 flat mother-of-pearl buttons (for the yoke), 6 mm diameter Bonnet 18 cm

X

36 cm pure cotton

organdie or pure silk organza (for the brim) * 30 cm Swiss batiste, 115 cm wide (for the crown) * 1.6 m woven cotton edging lace, 9 mm wide (to match the collar lace) * 50 cm narrow entredeux* 1.5 m double-faced satin ribbon, 5 mm wide* 1.3 m double-faced satin ribbon, 7 mm wide

•

Technique pages 292-301, 301-12, 343-4 O PREPARING THE COLLAR

1 Using the tracing paper and pencil

The daisy and bee design is

trace a working pattern for the collar

quite easy to efubroider. The

from the master pattern. Trace all

whole motif is worked in shadow

markings, including the embroidery

stitch, except for the daisies, the leaf

design. Do not cut out the pattern.

veins and stefi/s and the bee’s body.

2 Pin a rectangle of organdie, 25 cm X 15 cm, over the traced pattern, pin¬

The daisies are worked in pistil stitch in tivo shades of pink, and

ning around the edges of the fabric

the bee's outline, legs and

so that the pin marks will not show on the finishetl collar.

antenna are worked in backstitch.

the petal at a time.

petal, and repeat the process.

3 Work one or two tiny backstitches,

Stems and leaves

and then take the thread down to the

1 Work flower stems in backstitch

wrong side, bringing it up again a few

using the darkest shade of green. At

stitches from the tip of the petal.

the same time, shadow stitch the calyx

4 Backstitch on the right side of

at die top of each stem using the same

the fabric to the tip, ending with a

green. Work two rows of backstitch

two-tum French knot. Your needle

to complete each stem.

and thread are now on the wrong side.

2 Shadow stitch the leaves, working

Bring them up at the start of the next

from the tips to the bases. Use pale

32

BABIES

Working shadow STITCH

Shadow stitch is worked like herringbone stitch, hut from the hack of the fabric, producing a

subtle and charming effect. Turn to page } 11 for details of how' to work shadow stitch.

On the leaves, start with several backstitches before beginning to work the shadow^ stitch.

On the bee’s wing, start at die pointed end and make sure the cross-over stitches are even.

perimeter of die collar, allowing extra fullne.ss at the comers so that the col¬ lar will sit properly when it is turned

2 Shadow stitch the body in alternate

right side out. Do not run the lace

Note

vertical stripes of orange and black.

up the centre backs, as the collar w'ill

When working on fine fabric in an embroi-

Outline the body and work the legs

overlap here. Tack the lace in place.

day hoop, protect the fabric from damage by placing two rings of non-woven intafacing

and antenna with backstitch using

4 Place the collar lining on top of

black thread.

the collar, right sides together.

circmnference of each intafacing ring should

© MAKING THE COLLAR

back overlaps, and stitching through

be 5 an larger in diameter than the hoop

1 Out out the embroidered front

all layers, sew around the entire collar,

and the inner circumference 4 cm smaller.

collar to the size of the pattern. Then

including the neck edge and back, to

cut one plain front collar (for the lin¬

5 cm from the starting point. (This

Staiting near the centre of one of the

between the fabric and the hoops. The outer

ing) and four back collar pieces (two

opening will be used to turn the collar

green for the smaller leaves and mid

for the lining) from the organdie.

through to the right side.)

green for the larger leaves.

2 Using small French seams, stitch

5 Machine sew' a fine line of zigzag

3 Work the leaf veins in backstitch

the front and a left and right back

stitching beside the seam before trim¬

using the darkest shade of green. Start

together at the .shoulders. Do the

stitching at the stalk end and work

same with the lining pieces.

ming the seam closely and uirning the collar to the right side.

towards the tip.

3 Pin the lace to the outside edge of

6 Neatly sew' up the opening wdth

the collar on the right side, with the

a few handstitches.

Bee

lace heading on the seamline and the

7 xMake two horizontal buttonholes

1 Work the wing in shadow stitch

scalloped edge towards the centre.

in the left back in the positions

using pale grey cotton.

VVdien pinning, follow the outer

marked on the pattern. Sew the tw'o

BABIES

mother-of-pearl shank buttons in the

4 Clip the neck edge and mm the

corresponding positions on the right

work right side out.

back so that the back edges overlap. O making the dress

1 Using the tracing paper and pencil, trace a working pattern for the dress from the master pattern and cut out the various pieces.

2 Fold the batiste in half widtliwise. Pin the pattern on, matching fold lines, and cut out the fabric. Cut tw'o skirt pieces, and yoke self-linings. Yoke

Hint

When choosing your fabrics,

5 Turn under the raw edge of the

remember that the intensity of

lining and hemstitch it by hand to

the colours in the etnbroidery

the skirt gatirering line.

will depend on the type of fabric.

6 Using narrow French seams, stitch

A sheer organdie barely

the side seams of the skirt.

dmiinishes the colours, while much softer hues are produced with batiste, silk or fine linen. The eijibroidered collar is just as effective on a dress made ftom mint green, peach or pink batiste as it is on white fabric.

Using narrow French seams, stitch tlie front yoke to the back yokes at the

Sleeves

shoulders. Repeat to join the yoke

1 Sew one row of gathering stitches

7 Set the sleeves into the armholes

lining pieces.

along the tops of the sleeves and one

widr narrow French seams, matching

along tire lower edges, between the

the underarm seams to the skirt side

Skirt

dots marked on the pattern.

seams and the sleeve centres to the

1 Make a cut 8 cm long in the centre

2 Using a narrow French seam,

yoke shoulder seams.

of the skirt back for the back placket.

stitch the underarm seams.

2 Roll 6 mm of fabric under on each

3 With right sides facing, stitch

Finishing

edge of the cut on the wrong side,

together the short ends of one of

1 Along the lower edge of the skirt,

tapering towards the bottom of the

the bias-cut sleeve bindings.

mrn under a 6 mm hem and press

cut, and stitch in place by hand, using

4 Pull up tire gathers on the lower

with a warm iron. Fold under a fur¬

running stitch.

sleeve edge (cuff), adjusting them to

ther 10 cm, making a deep hem. Press

3 Fold the fabric under again and sew

fit the sleeve binding.

the hem again and then handsew it in

on each side with tiny hemstitches.

5 Pin and then stitch the right side

place with invisible hemstitching.

of the sleeve binding to the right side

2 Make three horizontal buttonholes

of the gathered lower sleeve edge,

in the left back yoke, in the positions

aligning the raw edges.

marked on the pattern, and then sew

6 Turn under 6 mm on the raw edge

tire three flat mother-of-pearl buttons

of the sleeve binding and handstitch it

to the right back yoke in the corre¬

to the inside of the sleeve at the

sponding positions.

machine stitching line.

4 Fold the right side of tlie opening

7 Gather dre shoulder section of the

0 MAKING THE BONNET

upper sleeve, taking care not to gather

The bonnet is adjustable and fully

the areas near the underamr seam.

lined, and has an ungathered lace

8 Repeat steps 3 to 7 to make the

trim. The lace in the bonnet illus¬

other sleeve.

trated was attached by enclosing it in the seams as the bonnet was

under 1.5 cm and overlap it on to the left side by the same amount, making

Assembling the dress

assembled. Flowever, if you prefer,

a pleat. Pin the pleat into place and

1 With right sides together, stitch the

you could stitch the lace on by hand

secure it by stitching firmly across the

gathered skirt front to the yoke fi'ont.

after completing tire bomret.

width of the pleat at the bottom.

2 Do dre same with the gathered

1 Using the tracing paper and pencil,

5 Using a 1 cm seam allowance, sew

skirt back and the yoke backs, extend¬

trace a working pattern for the bonnet

two rows of gathering stitches, 3 mnr

ing the centre edges of the yoke backs

from the master pattern and cut it out.

apart, along the top of the skirt front

6 mm past the edges of the placket to

2 Fold the Swiss batiste and cut out

and the skirt back on either side of the

create a seam allowance when joining

two crown pieces. Fold tire organdie

placket, stopping short of the placket.

and cut out two brim pieces.

Pull up the gathering threads until the

the yoke and the lining. 3 Place the yoke lining over the yoke

skirt front fits the yoke front, with the

with right sides togedrer, and machine

Crown

centres matched, and the skirt back

stitch around the centre back edges

1 Pin the edging lace all around

and neckline.

the right side of one crown piece.

fits the yoke backs on each side.

33

I

y

Embroidering the ribbons

4

The petals arc worked with long, loose

by hand with a few slipstitches.

straight stitches, secured at the end with

5 Cut the wide ribbon in half At one

a tiny stitch and finished with tivo-tnrn

eml of each piece, fokl the ribbon to

French knots. To make the calyx (the

form two small loops.

f inish off the ends of the casings

green base), seiv a straight stitch nnder the steitis and a fly stitch below that. Use small .nraight stitches for the stem.

pieces. Stitch around all seam lines, taking care at the points and leaving a 3 cm opening in the crown edge except along the straight front edge,

for turning.

with the lace heatling on the seainline

5 Machine sew a line ot fine zigzag

and the scalloped etlge facing towards

stitching beside the seam anti trim the

6 Make a small gathered pleat at the

the centre of the honnet. Ease the lace

seam allowance carefully and evenly

base of the loops and secure it with a

around the comers so that there will

to prevent any uneven or jagged edges

few handstitches.

be enough fullness.

that will show through the organdie.

7 Stitch the folded and pleated ends

2 Tack the edging lace in place along

6 Turn the work to the right side

of the wide ribbons to either side of

the lace heading, using stitches of

through the opening and close the

the bonnet, at the point wTere the

medium length.

opening by hand with slipstitch.

brim joins the crown.

8 Embroider the free ends of all the

3 Wddt right sides together, machine stitch the crown lining to the crown

Joining the brim to the crown

ribbons with daisies, following the

along the line of tacking stitches,

1 Trim the other batiste edge of the

embroidery instructions below. It the

stitching through all layers.

entredeux to 6 mm. With right sides

ribbon is likely to fray, leave enough

4 Cdip the curves, turn the crown

together and raw edges aligned, lay

ribbon below- the embroidery to fold

right side out and press gently.

the entredeux edge of the brim over

back a hem to cover the back of the

the straight, unstitched edge of the

embroidery.

Brim

crown. Stitch the entredeux to the

9 Eold hems at the ends of all ribbons

1 Pin the edging lace to the right side

outer layer of the crown only.

and slipstitch them in place, ensuring

of the front edge of one brim piece,

2 Turn the brim over, fold the raw

that the hems cover the embroidery.

with the lace heading on the seam line

edge of the crown lining under and

and the scalloped edge hang towards

handsew it to the entredeux with

Embt'oidering the wide ribbons

the centre. Ease the lace to fit.

invisible hemstitching.

Use one strand of cotton throughout.

2 Tack the edging lace in place along

Choose one of the pink embroidery Finishing

cottons that you used for the daisies

3 Trim one batiste edge of the entre-

1 Cut the narrow ribbon into one

on the collar. Starting all stitches from

dettx to 6 mm and clip it to allow for

60 cm length and tw'o 35 cm lengths.

the centre point, w'ork the petals

curvature. With raw edges aligned,

2 Machine stitch along the casing

by making loose straight stitches and

lines, as marked on the master pattern,

securing them with a tiny stitch at

and unpick the seams between the line

the outer end. Overlay this small

of stitching and the low'er edges of the

end stitch with a two-turn French

bonnet to thread the ribbon through.

knot, finishing on the wrong side

the lace heading.

3 Thread the 60 cm length of ribbon

of the w ork. Return to the centre

through the casing at the back of the

to begin each new stitch, vartang the

bonnet and secure the ribbon in place

lengths. Using green cotton, make the

with a few handstitches at the edges

calyx by w'orking a straight stitch

and the centre back. Thread the

across the base of the tendrils and

35 cm lengths of ribbon through the

a fly stitch underneath. Work small

pin the entredeux to the right side of

casings at each side, threading from

straight stitches for the stem.

the other edge of the brim along the seamline and tack it in place.

the front to tlie back, and pull the rib¬ bon through until the end is level with

Embroidering the narrow ribbons

4 With right sides together, lay

the opening of the casing at the front.

Work in tire same way as for the wade

the second organdie brim piece over

Use a few backstitches to secure

ribbon and with the same colours, but

the first, sandwiching the edging lace

the end of the ribbon to the bonnet,

use smaller stitches and w'ork only five

and the entredeux between the two

6 mm fi'om the end of the casing.

pi.stil stitches for the daisy.

• BABIES

Soft rattles for a baby

35

^^

These unusual rattles will please both parents and baby. Made from fabric and felt, they will capture a baby’s attention with their bright colours and decoration, yet are soft to handle. Because they have bells inside to make the rattling

^

sound, all stitching must be very firm and the bells securely attached.

^

0

WHAT YOU NEED

Stitch guide

Hint

Master pattern B14(a-b) *15 cm X

For a stylish rattle ball, use a

60 cm coloured fabric • 2 or 3 felt

fabric with a broad patterned

scraps in different colours • dress¬

stripe. Cut out the segments

making pins • strong sewing threads

carefidly so that the stripes will

to match fabric and felt • stranded

match up, as in the photograph.

embroidery cotton: green, various colours for the flowers • embroidery

Use two strands of green cotton for the stem stitch.

O

French knot

To work the flowers, choose

Stem stitch

colours that contrast with

Lazy daisy stitch

the segments of felt. where the segments converge

needle• 6 bells• toy filling* scissors

5

• sewing needle • ribbon • tracing

opening, and carefully mm the work

S Turn the work to the right side

paper • pencil • sewing machine

to the right side through the opening.

and smff the ball firmly with toy fill-

•

6

mg, and tlren stitch up the opening

Technique pages 292-301, 307-12,

343-4

Ratde ball 1

Join the last seam, leaving a 5 cm

Smff the ball with toy filling until

it is firm, and then handstitch

securely by hand.

the opening to close.

S Mask the point where the handle joins the ball with a band of ribbon stitched finnly into place.

Hand rattle

With tracing paper and pencil,

trace a working pattern from tlie

1

master pattern and cut it out.

scissors, trace and cut a working pat¬

2 Using the pattern, cut out seven

tern from the master pattern.

segments from the coloured fabric.

2 From the felt, cut out two

3

and leaving an opening for mming.

With right sides facing, pin the

segments together. Taking a 1 cm

Using the tracing paper, pencil and

handle pieces and six segments, using all the colours.

seam allowance, join all the seams

3 Join three of the segments

except the last one.

with a fine seam, alternating

4

the colours. Join the other three

Using strong thread, firmly hand-

stitch three bells to the seams on the

segments in the same way and

wrong side of the fabric.

put the pieces aside.

4 Join the handle pieces together, leaving the small end open. Turn the handle right side out and smff it with toy filling.

5 Following the stitch guide, use two strands of embroidery cotton, in green and another colour, to embroider the flower sprays on each of the segments.

6

Flandstitch tire

three bells firmly to the seams on the wrong side

7

of the work. Sew tire two sets of seg¬

ments and the handle together, stitching the handle in at one end

Variation

Decorate the rattles with ribbon bows. Make the bows small enough to ensure that baby’s hands don’t becom-e entangled m the ribbon, and stitch them very finnly to the rattles. Attach a ribbon loop to the rattle ball so that it can be suspended fi'otn the framework of a cot or pram.

36

BABIES

Balloon cardigan & striped jumper Knitted in soft pastels or bright primary colours, these basic

Shaping the shoulder

patterns can be varied to suit both boys and girls. They can be

Ca.st off 7 (8-9-10) sts at beg of next

given separately or as a pair. The balloons are embroidered on to the cardigan after the garment has been made up.

row and foil alt row, then 7 (9-10-10) sts at beg of foil alt row. Work 1 row. Leave rem 14 (14-15-15) sts on a stitch holder.

CHECKING THE TENSION

WHAT YOU NEED

Sizes \ge (months)

A

B

C

D

3

6

12

18

Fits chest (cm)

40

45

50

53

(Teck your tension to ensure that

Completing the hack

the measurements of the finished

Join yarn to rem sts on needle, cast on

garments will be as close as possible

5 sts for underlap and work other side

to the size specified. You should have 29 stitches to a 10 cm width

to correspond, omitting buttonhole

over stocking stitch, using 3.25 mm

and ‘Work 1 row’.

knitting needles. If you have fewer

0

Chest

43

49

54

57

stitches, use smaller needles; if more

Work as for back to

Length

20

23

26

29

stitches, use bigger needles.

Sleeves

13

16

19

21

Jumper measures (cm)

FRONT

Keeping stripes correct, work 26 (30-32-34) rows of stst.

Cardigan measures (cm) Chest

44

50

55

58

Length

22

25

28

31

Sleeves

13

16

19

21

Jumper

Dividing for neck

O back

1st row: K26 (30-34-

Using 2.75 mm needles and me, cast

36), mm and cont on

on 62 (70-78-82) sts.

these sts.

The yam used in this project is

1st row: K2, ★ P2, K2, rep from ★

Dec at neck edge in

Patons 4 ply Baby Pure wool (25 g

to the end.

alt rows until 21 (25-

balls) and the colours are: main

2nd row: P2, ★ K2, P2, rep from ★

28-30) sts rem.

colour (me), (white); 1st contrast

to the end.

W’^ork 3 row's stst.

colour (ccl), 0512 (mint); 2nd

Rep 1st and 2nd rows 6 (7-7-8) times,

contrast colour (cc2), 0513

inc 3 sts evenly across last rowc..65

(buttermilk); 3rd contrast colour

(73-81-85) sts, 14 (16-16-18) rows

Cast off 7 (8-9-10) sts at beg

(cc3), 0518 (lemon).

of rib in all.

of next row and foil alt row'.

Jumper

Change to 3.25 mm needles.

Work 1 row. Cast off.

me

2

W^ork stst in stripes throughout,

Slip ne.xt 13 sts on to stitch holder.

ccl

1111

2 rows each me, ccl, me, cc2, me

Join yarn to rem sts on needle and

cc2

1111

and cc3, until work measures 9(11-

w'ork other side to correspond.

cc3

1111

13-15.5) cm fi-om beg, ending with a purl row.

0

3

3

3

Cardigan

Shaping the shoulder

SLEEVES

Tie a coloured thread at each end of

Using 2.75 mm needles and me, cast

last row to mark beg of armholes, as

on 34 (34-38-38) sts. Work 11 (13-13-

there is no armhole shaping. ★★ V\5jrk 22 (26-30-32) rows stst,

15) row's of rib as given for back. Next row: Rib 4 (2-4-2), ★ inc in ne.xt

w'ork the embroidery.

continuing the striped pattern.

st, rib 1, rep fi'om ★ to the last 4

Knitting needles: 3.25 mm (no. 10)

Dividing for back opening

of 47 (49-53-55) sts.

me

3456

You wall also need a small quantity of the three contrasting colours to

(2-4-2) sts, rib 4 (2-4-2), giving a total and 2.75 mm (no. 12)‘circular

1st row: K35 (39-43-45), mm and

Change to 3.25 mm needles.

needle 2.75 mm (no. 12) - optional,

Working in stripes as for back, inc at

for front band of cardigan • 3 stitch

cont on these sts. 2nd row: K5, purl to end.

holders and 2 buttons for the

3rd row: Knit.

there are 63 (69-67-65) .sts.

jumper • 1 stitch holder and

Rep 2nd and 3rd rows 5 times, then

Sizes C and D: Inc at each end of foil

4 buttons for the cardigan‘needles:

2nd row once.

6th rows until there are (75-77) sts.

wool sewing, large crewel ‘ small

15th row: Knit to last 3 sts, yfwd,

For all sizes: Continue until work

quantity of black stranded

K2 tog (this is the buttonhole), K1.

embroidery cotton

Keeping garter st border correct,

measures 13 (16-19-21) cm from beg, ending with a purl row.

•

w'ork 3 rows stst.

Cast off loosely.

Technique pages 312, 323-7

each end of 5th and foil 4th row's until

BABIES

4

rf,

j^^\n'(V’,-l',v

■'Y-V't'’.

O

O MAKING UP THE JUMPER

last row...68 (76-84-88) sts.

Using backstitch, join the shoulder

Do not press. Using the wool sewing

Change to 3.25 mm needles.

seams together.

needle and backstitch, join sleeve and

Work in stst until work measures

With right side facing, using 2.75 mm

side seams to coloured threads. Sew

10 (12-14-16.5) cm from beg, ending

needles and me, knit up 73 (73-79-79)

in sleeves. Sew underlap in position.

with a jrurl row.

sts evenly around neck, incl sts from

Sew on buttons.

Tie a coloured thread at each end of

NECKBAND

last row to mark beg of armholes, as

stitch holders. 1st row: K5, ★ PI, Kl, rep from ★

there is no armhole shaping.

Cardigan

Work 44 (48-52-54) rows stst.

to last 5 sts, K5.

O back

Shaping the shoulders

to last 4 sts, K4. 2nd row: K6, ★ PI, Kl, rep from ★

Rep 1st and 2nd rows 3 (3-4-4) times,

Using 2.75 mm needles and me,

Cast off 7 (9-10-10) sts at beg of next

then 1st row once, working a

cast on 70 (78-86-90) sts.

4 rows, then 8 (8-9-11) sts at beg of

buttonhole (as before) in 4th row.

Work 14 (16-16-18) rows rib as for

foil 2 rows. Leave rem 24 (24-26-26)

Clast off loosely in rib.

back of jumper, dec 2 sts evenly across

sts on stitch holder until required.

37

38

BABIES

Stitch and colour guide F.mhroider the balloons and their

the three contrasting colours,

strings using the photograph as a

Work the strings in stem stitch

guide for the position. Work the

using three strands of the black

balloons in knitting stitch using

stranded embroidery cotton.

N.

1 1 \ }1 \

s
'* ''* • ^ ^ • '‘y • ' ' y • y ‘ y • y ty • t ‘ y , * > • y^’ys^ '

O

LV.V-^'Ar'^

* ^

:ut each square into quarters diag¬ onally and, following step B in the

Make this colourful gift for a friend and teach yourself to make

diagram, numher the triangles on the

quilted patchwork at the same time. Once you have worked out

wrong side of the fabric in the

how to piece the patchwork, the project is easy to make.

sequence shown. Make sure the stripes are running in the same direc¬ tion as the stripes in the diagram.

WHAT YOU NEED

2 'Frim the short ends of the strip .so that they are straight and even.

^ASSEMBLING THE BLOCKS

Master pattern G48(a) • coloured

3 Chit off a piece 160 cm long for

1 Working with two squares’ worth

fabric strips, 250 cm long, in

the oven cloth. The remaining piece

at a time, join the triangles together as

varying widths (these will be joined

will make the mitt.

follows to make four different blocks. The first block is shown in step C

to make a piece 250 cm X 20 cm) • 1 m backing fabric, 114 cm wide,

Q CUTTING THE

in a toning or contrasting shade •

BLOCKS FOR THE CLOTH

FABRIC

of the diagram. Join triangles 1 and 3, triangles 1 and 4, triangles 2 and 3,

1 m wadding, 90 cm wide • sewing

1 Measure and cut the 160 cm strip

and triangles 2 and 4. With right

thread to match the fabric • large

into eight 20 cm x 20 cm .squares (step

sides facing, sew' the quarters together.

wooden bead • tracing paper •

A in the diagram opposite).

worth at a time. Stack together blocks

sewing machine

•

Techjiique pages 292-301, 305-6

Note Use a 6 mm seam allowance, unless othetmuse specified, and

O making the fabric 1 Sew the strips of fabric together

press the fabric and the

along their long edges to make a strip

seams as you go.

measuring 250 cm x 20 cm.

2 Repeat step 1 with the other triangles, working with two squares

pencil • scissors • tape measure •

of the same

BEST FRIENDS & RELATIONS

Combining the squares

Step D

The pattern on the cloth is created by cut¬

tire design illustrated, make sure the

ting eight identical 20 cm x 20 cm squares

stripes are running vertically (as in step

into triangles and then combining them as

B) before you number the triangles. If

shottm in step D. Combining the triangles

you divide the finished cloth into four

in different ways will create other designs,

squares, you will see that there are two

and you may hke to experiment. To make

distinct combinations of triangles.

Step A

Step B 1

Hint Do not use synthetic fabrics for this project^ as they are not always heat or flame resistant. Use fnrnly woven cotton fabrics of about the same weight.

Step C

3 ..••

.1"

1

.•

^

2 With right sides facing, align one

5 With a long maclfine stitch, quilt

raw edge of one of the binding strips

diagonal fines across each of the lay¬

with the raw edge of the quilted cloth.

ered shapes, with the rows of quilting

Machine stitch through all layers

stitches 2 cm apart.

6 mm from the edge.

6

3 Turn the remaining raw edge of

pieces facing and using a 1 cm seam

the binding strip to the back of the

allowance, sew the two quilted shapes

cloth, fold it under and slipstitch it

together around the outside of the

With the right sides of the quilted

into place along the fine of machine

mitt, leaving the wrist end open.

combination. You should end up with

stitching. Trim the ends of the bind¬

7 Trim the seam, clip the curves

four blocks of each kind.

ing level with the edges of the cloth.

and mm the work to the right side.

3 Following step D of the diagram,

4 Repeat steps 2 and 3 at the opposite

8 Cut a strip of backing fabric

arrange your 16 blocks in the order

edge of the cloth.

30 cm X 5 cm along the straight grain

shown, referring to the numbers you

5 Bind the two remaining edges of

and use it to bind the raw wrist edge,

wrote on the back of each triangle.

the quilted cloth in the same way,

following the same procedure as for

4 With right sides facing, pin and

mcking in the raw edges of the bind¬

binding the oven cloth.

sew the blocks together.

ing at the corners and neatening them

Press aU seams flat.

with a few hand stitches.

O FINISHING THE OVEN MITT

1 From the backing fabric cut a strip 0 MAKING THE OVEN MITT

12 cm

OVEN CLOTH

1 Using the master pattern and

Fold the long edges in 1 cm and press.

1 Cut pieces of backing fabric

tracing paper, pencil and scissors,

2 Fold the strip in half lengthwise

O H

9

quilting the

X

5 cm along the straight grain.

■

and wadding a little larger than

trace and cut out a working pattern

with the wrong sides facing and top-

■

the assembled main fabric.

for the oven mitt. Cut out one mitt

stitch the folded edges together.

I 2 Lay out the backing wrong

shape from the main fabric strip and

3 Thread on the wooden bead.

f

Double tire strip over to form a loop

the main fabric right side up. Tack

put it to one side. 2 From the bacldng fabric cut out

the three layers together firmly

three mitt shapes, and from the

of the tltumb seam at the wrist.

along the outside edge.

wadding cut out two. 3 Take the main fabric mitt shape

side up, then the wadding, then

3 With a long machine stitch, quilt along the seam fines joining the

and the matching mitt shape cut from

blocks, and along the diagonal seams

the backing fabric. Place these pieces

joining the triangles. Trim all edges.

together, with wrong sides facing. Place one of the wadding shapes

© FINISHING THE OVEN CLOTH

between them. Then pin or tack all

1 From the backing fabric, cut four

three layers together. 4 Repeat step 3 with the two remain¬

strips 50 cm

X

5 cm along the straight

grain. These are for the binding.

ing mitt shapes.

and stitch the raw ends to the inside

Note If the backing fabric has an obvious right side, make sure that two mitt shapes make up one complete pair and the third shape pairs with the mitt shape cut fi''om the mam fabric.

135

136

BEST FRIENDS & RELATIONS

Elegant Victorian bows Decorative bows can be mounted on a board for hanging on the wall or used to add a finishing touch to curtain ties. One of these Victorian-style bows would give great pleasure to a friend who values the sumptuous elegance of an age that is past.

WHAT YOU NEED Tape measure • scissors • sewing thread to match fabric • sewing needle • sewing machine Wall-mounted how Suitable fabric: 1 strip 40 cm X 115 cm (for the bow), 1 strip

12 cm X 20 cm (for the hanging loop), 2 strips 14 cm x 43 cm (to cover the hanging board) • 2 pieces firm cardboard, 10 cm X 40 cm and 9.5 cm X 38.5 cm*

1 piece polyester wadding, 10 cm X 40 cm • PVA glue • 3 decorative

metal charms • 1 brass ring Angel-trimmed bow Suitable fabric: 1 strip 40 cm X 68 cm (for the loops), 1 strip

40 cm X 83 cm (for the tails), 2 strips 12 cm X 20 cm (for the

3 Lay one 14 cm x 43 cm strip of

knot) • small plastic, papier mache

fabric on a hard surface, wrong side

or wooden angel • artist’s acrylic

facing up, and centre the cardboard,

paints: gold, a colour to match

batting side down, on top. Fold the

the fabric • small paintbrush •

edges of the fabric around the card¬

brass or plastic ring • PVA glue

board and glue them in place, mitring

•

the comers if necessary to give a

Technique pages 292-301

smooth appearance.

4 Cover the other piece of cardboard

Wall bow

with the remaining fabric in the same way. (This piece of cardboard is not

O MAKING THE BOW

padded with wadding.)

If the fabric you have chosen is not

then close the opening by hand using

suitable for making a tied bow, follow

slipstitch or by machine.

the instructions for making a picmre

5 Tie the strip into a good, plump

bow instead (page 137).

bow, making sure that both loops and

1 With the right sides facing, fold the 40 cm x 115 cm fabric strip in half lengthwise.

2 Cut the fabric at each end of the

ends are s)nnmeti'ical.

Note The method of consti~ucting a bow depejids pai-tly on persotial prefereitce and partly on the type

O making the HANGING BOARD

of fabric you are usitig. Picture bows are especially suitable for

strip at a slight angle to shape the tails of the bow.

1 To make the loop for hanging the

very stijffabrics that cannot

bow, fold the 12 cm x 20 cm fabric

easily be knotted or for aisp

3 Machine the long side and the two

strip in half lengthwise, right sides

fabrics that may axase when

short sides together 1 cm from the

knotted. The wall-mounted

raw edge, leaving an opening in the

facing, then proceed as in steps 3 and 4 of‘Making the bow’.

middle of the long side for turning.

2 Using PVA glue, attach the

bow and the angel-trimmed

4 Pull the fabric right side out

wadding to one side of the 10 cm x

bow is a picture bow.

through the opening. Press the fabric.

40 cm piece of cardboard.

bow illustrated is a knotted

BEST FRIENDS & RELATIONS

Making a picture bow

1 Cutting out the fabric: For the

3 Making the tails: Fold the fabric

loops, cut a strip of fabric twice the

for the tails in half lengthwise, right

widtli of the finished bow by twice

sides facing. Shape the tails of tire

Width of knot

bow by cutting the fabric at each end of the strip at a slight angle. Machine stitch around the raw edges, leaving an opening in the middle of the long side for turning. Pull the fabric right side out, through the opening. Press the fabric, then close die opening, by hand using slipstitch or by machine stitching.

4 Making the knot: With right sides facing, machine stitch the two strips of fabric for die knot together along the 30 cm edges. Turn the work to the right side and press. the depth, plus a seam allowance. For

Fold the strip you have made in

the tails, cut a strip twice the length

half, seam edge to seam edge. Make a

of one tail by twice the width of the

line of firm mnning stitches through

tail plus a seam allowance. For the

all layers of fabric, parallel to die fold

knot, cut two strips about 30 cm long

at half the width of the folded strip.

and twice the width of the finished

Open out the strip and press the

knot plus a seam allowance.

stitched section into a box pleat.

5 Thread the brass ring on to the fabric hanging loop. Glue the ends of the loop to the middle of the larger piece of cardboard on the wrong side (the side not covered with fabric).

6

With wrong sides facing, glue the

pieces of covered cardboard together.

7 Centre the bow at the top of the

2 Making the loops: With right

front of the hanging board (the side

sides together, fold the fabric in half

with the batting) and glue it in place.

lengthwise. Machine stitch the long

8 Glue the metal charms on to the

edges together. Turn the work to

board, in a line under the bow.

the right side and press. Fold a 1 cm

Angel bow

hem into the inside of the fabric at

5 Attaching the knot: Lay the

one end and press it down. Slide

knot piece on a hard surface, box

this end over the other end and sew

pleat downwards, and lay the bow

through all thicknesses, easing the

loop over die top with its centre

1 Make a large picmre bow with the

inside fabric slightly to fit. This seam

seam facing upwards. Position die

fabric, following the instructions for

will be at the back of the bow.

tail on top of the back seam of die

‘Making a picture bow’.

loops. Fold the ends of the knot over

2 Finuly stitch the brass ring to the

the bow loops and tails, pulling the

centre top of the knot so that the

knot to bunch the loops and tails.

bow can be hung up.

Pin the ends of the knot at the

3 Paint the angel the same colour

back, then pleat die loops and tails

as the bow and allow the paint to dry.

evenly under die knot. Trim the knot

4 Use the gold paint to add high¬

piece if necessary. Slipstitch die ends

lights to the angel. 5 When the paint has dried, glue

togedier at the back of the bow.

the angel to the knot of the bow.

137

138

BEST FRIENDS & RELATIONS •

Luxury handkerchief hag You can use remnants to make this quick and easy fabric bag for storing handkerchiefs, stockings, scarves or luxury soaps.

Variations

Put a miniature bottle of perfume and some lace-edged

• Adapt the bag for storing

handkerchiefs inside it to complete your gift.

soap, perfume or cosmetics by lining it with shower curtain fabric instead of silk. • The hag can also contain an inner bag filled with pot pourri, and can be hung in wardrobes or from door handles or tucked in among cushions. Make a sachet of tulle to fit into the bag, leaving a small opening in one side. Turn the sachet right side out, fill it with pot pomri, and close the opening with slipstitch. Place the sachet in the bag and tie the cord. Srw a fabric loop to the bag for hanging.

0 MAKING THE LINING

1 Using the lining fabric, proceed as for steps 1 and 2 of ‘Making tlte bag’.

2 At the top, turn down a 1 cm double bem to the wrong side. Sew it down by machine or with slipstitch. 0 ASSEMBLING THE BAG

1 Turn the bag right side out and leave the lining wTong side out.

^tWHAT YOU NEED Note 25 cm X 80 cm heavy upholstery fabric (chintz, tapestry or damask) • 25 cm X 60 cm silk lining fabric* 90 cm thick silk upholstery cord, in a shade to tone with the fabric •

It is impoftant to neaten the raw edges by zigzagging or overlooking them because heavy iipholsteiy fabric often has a complex weave that frays easily.

sewing thread to match the fabric • tape measure • dressmaking pins • sewing needle • sewing machine

•

Technique pages 292-301

tack it into place just below where O making the bag 1 Use the sewing machine to zigzag

the large hem folds over. Slipstitch

around the raw edges of the uphol¬

easing it to fit if nece.ssary. Remove tlte tacking stitches.

the lining to the inside of the bag,

stery fabric to prevent fraying. 2 Fold the fabric in half widthwise

3 Fold the upholstery cord in half

with the right sides together, and

and mark the mid-point. Measure

straight machine stitch the sides

about 9 cm down from the top of

together with a 1 cm seam allowance.

the bag along a side seam and stitch

Press the seams open.

to the wrong side and press. Fold over a further 9 cm to the wrong side and

the mid-point of the cortl to the side

3 I'o make a deep hem along the top etlge, fold the top raw edge over 1 cm

slipstitch in place.

side of the bag and tie it in a bow.

seam. Bring the cord to the other

• BEST FRIENDS & RELATIONS

139

Easy mothball bags A cluster of mothball bags is a great present. The bags are quick and easy to make, and are an excellent way of using up those odd scraps of cotton fabric that are too pretty to throw away.

WHAT YOU MEED 3 scraps printed cotton fabric,

fraying, neaten them hy hand or by

each circle, and then close the bags

machine with zigzag stitch, or trim

by carefully pulling the gathering

them with pinking shears.

threads. Tie the threads securely.

2 Tie a length of ribbon around die

20 cm X 20 cm* 2 m lace edging, 10 mm wide •2.5m ribbon, 3 mm

© ATTACHING THE LACE

top of each bag to cover the gathering.

wide • sewing thread to match the

1 Cut the lace into lengths the mea¬

3 Tie the three bags together with

fabric • mothballs or naphthalene •

surement of dae circumference of the

ribbon and stitch the ends of the rib¬

scissors • pinking shears (optional) •

circles plus 1 cm, and pin it around

bon to make a loop for hanging.

sewing needle or sewing machine •

the circles so that it overlaps the edge

tape measure

of the fabric. Stitch it to the fabric.

• Technique pages 292-301

2 Run small gathering stitches 2 cm in from the edge of each circle.

gerous if swallowed. Fasten the bags securely so

O PREPARING THE FABRIC

1 Cut three 20 cm diameter circles

0 ASSEMBLING THE BAGS

from the fabric scraps.

1 Place a little pile of mothballs (or

2 To prevent the raw edges from

naphthalene flakes) in the centre of

■mmiefurnt Mic m

kt

Note Mothballs (or iiaphthalene flakes) can be dan¬ that the contents cannot fall out, and keep the bags out of reach of children.

140

BEST FRIENDS & RELATIONS •

Birdseed rings, cakes & bells These environmentally friendly seedcake shapes will attract birds to a friend’s garden where native plants and trees are not well enough established to provide food for birds. Seedcakes are also suitable for caged birds.

WHAT YOU NEED

ff'

1 Remove all the oven racks except one in the lower centre, and preheat

small) from one end. Coil the bent

Birdseed mixture (available from

the oven to 160°Ck

end at right angles into a spiral.

pet shops) • unprocessed bran • eggs

2 Oil the inside of your chosen con¬

2. To make aflat cake: Put a small

• measuring cup • large mixing bowl

tainer and line it with foil. Lightly oil

amount of mixmre into the bottom of

• egg whisk or beater • cooking oil

tire foil.

the oiled ramekin. Place the wire coil

(for oiling the cooking containers) •

3 Lightly beat the eggs in a mixing

on top of the mixmre so that the shaft

aluminium cooking foil • ovenproof

bow'l. Add the prepared seed-bran

is upright and in the centre and spoon

container: ring tin, ramekin or

mi.xmre and stir until well mixed.

remaining mixmre into the container. Taking care not to move the wire

terracotta flowerpot For the cake and the hell

0 BAKING THE SEEDCAKES

mount, press the mixmre down finnly,

medium-gauge wire, at least 25 cm

Birdseed rings

using the back of a spoon.

longer than the depth of the

1 Spoon the mixmre into the oiled

3 To tnake a bell: Spoon all of the

container • pliers

ring tin and press it down finnly using

mi.xmre into the oiled flowerpot and

the back of a spoon.

press it down well. Push the uncoiled

O preparing the mixture To make one cup of the mixture, you

2 Bake until the mixture is solid and

end of the wire through the centre of

sounds hollow when tapped. The bak¬

the seed mixmre and out through the

will need three-quarters of a cup of

ing time depends on size of tin used.

hole in the bottom. Pull the wire until

birdseed and a quarter of a cup of bran

3 Transfer the container to a wire

the coil is embedded below' the surface

mixed well together, and one egg.

rack. Remove seedcake and foil when

of the seed mixmre. Gently tamp the

Multiply these amounts as required,

it is cool enough to touch.

surface of the mixmre until smooth.

4 Bake until the mixmre is solid and

according to the size of seedcake you are making. Make two cups of mi.xture

Birdseed cakes and hells

sounds hollow when tapped. Baking

for a small ramekin, and four cups for

1 .Make a mount by using pliers to

time depends on size of container.

a 10 cm deep flowerpot or a 20 cm ring tin 3 cm deep.

bend the wire at right angles about

5 Transfer the container to a w'ire

15 cm (or less, if the container is very

rack, taking care not to bum yourself on the wire. Remove the seedcake and foil when it is cool enough to touch.

e

FINISHING Thread a length of cord or ribbon through a seedcake ring to make a hanging loop. To hang flat cakes and bells, shape the free end of the wire mount into a hook w'ith the pliers.

Caution Use seedcakes only to attract birds to a new garden. Find out which birds are likely to visit the recipient's garden and use the appropriate birdseed mixture. Hang seedcakes out of reach of cats and other predators, and remove thetn if the garden is to be sprayed with chemicals.

Seagrass basket Lined with cottage print fabric, this handy plaited seagrass basket can be used for shopping or picnics, or for storing craft materials.

10 m seagrass plait, 35 mm wide* oval basket base, 36 cm x 20 cm, with holes around the edge • raffia: 35 g natural, 10 g red, 10 g green, 10 g mauve • 1 m cottage print fabric • needle: size 20 chenille • sewing thread • dressmaking pins • sewing machine • fabric marking pen or pencil • scissors • hot glue gun (optional)

• Technique pages 292-301, 309-10 O making the basket

embroider three large lazy daisies on

1 Cut two pieces of seagrass plait

one side of the basket. Embroider the

60 cm long and put them to one side.

centres in mauve and feather stitch the

2 Thread the needle with a length of

leaves in green.

natural raffia. Sew the seagrass plait to the basket base by pushing the needle through each hole in the basket base and back through the seagrass plait.

3 Draw up the side lining with the gathering thread until it fits the base lining. With right sides together, pin the base lining to the side lining, adjusting the gathers evenly. Stitch

7 To make the handles, take the two

using a 1 cm seam.

60 cm pieces of plait that were put

4 With the wrong side of the lining

aside. Cross them at the carrying

against the inside of the basket, pin

3 When you reach the starting point,

point and place the ends 4 cm inside

the Lining in place around the rim.

begin the next round by placing the

the rim of the basket and about 5 cm

There is no need to mm the raw edg

plait so that it shghdy overlaps the

apart. Sew diem in place with namral

under. Fix in place either by sewing

previous row, forming a ridge up the

raffia. Stitch the handles together at

or with the hot glue gun.

side of the basket. Finnly stitch the

the carrying point.

5 To cover the raw edge and strengthen the basket, place the

plait where the rows overlap.

4 Continue adding rounds until the

0 LINING THE BASKET

remaining lengdi of plait inside the

basket is about 15 cm deep.

1 For the side lining, cut out a

top rim and sew it to the outer plait

5 Tuck the plait inside the rim of

rectangle of fabric 1 m long and

along the edge using namral raffia.

the basket directly above the starting

16 cm wide. Widi right sides facing,

position so that the top edge is even.

sew the short sides together, using a

Ensure that you have enough unused

1 cm seam. Run a gathering thread

plait left to go around the circumfer¬ ence of the basket, and then cut off

along one edge. 2 To make the base lining, place die

the plait and sew the end down finnly.

basket on the fabric. Trace around the

6 Thread the needle with red raffia

base widi the pen or pencil and cut

and, using the photograph as a guide.

the shape from the fabric.

Hint For neatness and extra strength, when sewing the plaits leave long ends of raffia that can he threaded back into the work.

142

BEST FRIENDS & RELATIONS •

Fragrant herbs in a terracotta pot For a friend who likes to use fresh herbs, this pot planted with kitchen herbs is an ideal gift. The terracotta pot, painted in two colours, can be of any size, depending on which herbs you choose to plant and how many.

WHAT YOU NEED Terracotta pot • herbs • potting compost • acrylic paints: 1 light shade and 1 dark • paintbrushes: 3 small decorating* polyurethane gloss or matt varnish

•

Technique pages 334—5

O PAINTING THE POT

1 Using a small decorating brush, apply a coat of the lighter paint to the outside surface of the pot and the inside of the top rim. Allow to dry.

2 With another decorating brush, apply the darker paint in rings of vary¬ ing thickness around the pot. Allow some of the first coat of paint to show through. Leave tlae paint to dry.

3 If the pot is to be placed outside, apply two coats of varnish to all painted surfaces. Allow the varnish to dry thoroughly between coats.

Q PLANTING THE

HERBS

If you are planting a variety of herbs in the same pot, be aware that they will grow much better if all the herbs you choose require the same condi¬ tions. Herbs such as rosemary, thyme, marjoram and sage love a very sunny position, whereas the mint family, chervil and chives prefer filtered sun¬ light and a more humid atmosphere.

Care and use of herbs • Most herbs are easy to grow in

water if the weather is hot or the

containers and need little mainte¬

plants are inside. Turn pots regularly

nance, but it is still a good idea to

so that all parts of the plant receive

include a note to the recipient of

equal light. During the growing sea¬

your gift explaining how to care for

son, apply liquid fertiliser every two

the herbs. If you grew the herbs from

weeks. During cold periods place

seed, include the seed packet, which

dehcate herbs under transparent

often has instructions for caring for

cover in good light.

the plants. Similarly, herbs bought

• Popular herbs suitable for pots

as seedlings from a nursery normally

include chervil, parsley, chives, sage,

have instructions attached for caring

oregano, basil and thyme. Delicate

for the plants.

herbs like lemon grass and lemon

• Herbs thrive in a stable tempera¬

verbena grow well in pots because

ture, free from draughts. Water them

they can be brought under cover

regularly, but err on the dry side.

during cold snaps. Large plants like

If in doubt, finger-test tire soil - if it

rosemary and bay are best growm in

feels dry, it needs water. Always use

pots of their own, rather than planted

tepid water (not cold), and spray with

in groups with other herbs.

Basil likes a very sunny spot that is

compost. Gently tamp the compost

Note

well sheltered from the wind.

down with your fingertips. Plant the

You will need to use a pot with

1 To ensure that drainage from the

seeds as directed on the packet.

pot is sufficient, place a few stones,

3 If you are potting the herbs up

some pieces of broken crockery or a

from nursery plants, put a little

layer of gravel in the bottom of the

potting compost in the bottom of

pot to prevent waterlogging.

the pot, place the herb plant in the

2 If you are growing herbs from seed,

pot and pack compost around the

fill the pot with proprietary potting

root mass, tamping down gently.

a ring design on it if you wish to obtain the sa?ne results as in the photog-aph. The herbs can be grown f-om seeds or bought fivni a garden nursery.

Sweethearts, Brides & Grooms

For a partner, we want to find a gift that says d love you’. What better way to express your affection than to give a little piece of yourself by making your own handcrafted gift?

144

SWEETHEARTS, BRIDES & GROOMS

Monogrammed linen handkerchief Monogramming always adds a personal touch to a gift. This man’s handkerchief, made from fine white linen, is monogrammed quite simply, using basic embroidery techniques.

WHAT YOU NEED Master pattern E35(a) • white handkerchief linen, 40 cm X 40 cm • white no. 20 crochet cotton • fine white cotton sewing thread • needles: size 18 tapestry, size 7 crewel • tracing paper • dressmaker’s carhon paper*pencil* dressmaking pins * scissors * sharp embroidery scissors * tape measure

•

Technique pages 292-301, 307-12

O PREPARING THE FABRIC

Iflfilif iTlTlTb:

rlTiTiTJb

■ IMI aail ■■ I ■■■>

rlTiTiri:: riTfTfr!^

■I MI aMl aL I iSm .■JLiZ.iJLbJL.

1 Make sure that the fabric is square by pulling threads along each edge and trimming the fringe of counter threads as required.

I'Sii'ri's-in-i •=•

|iM|ai|aai|aBiaM|aa

l-rlr-l-s-l-rl-T 2 From the centre of one edge, iTiTiTir

measure in 3 cm. Carefully cut two or three horizontal fabric threads and gendy draw them out of the weave with the tip of a tapestry needle, to tile left and right of the centre, work¬ ing towards the edges. If your fabric is very fine, you may need to pull four or five threads to make the draw threads noticeable. Stop drawing the threads 3.5 cm from the edge. Be very careful not to over-draw the threads.

3 Repeat step 2 along each edge. Ciarefully work lines of drawm threads towards each other, meeting at the comers of the inner square. If you

SWEETHEARTS, BRIDES Ef GROOMS

4 Using the crewel needle and fine sewing thread, take a small backstitch

© FINISHING THE DRAWN THREAD WORK

to secure the thread at point A. Work

1 WTen the embroidery has been

the first stitch from A to B, holding

completed, rinse the fabric gently to

the crochet cotton in place on the

remove any transfer lines. Diy flat

design line with your other hand.

and press well fi'om the wrong side.

2 Press a double hem around the fab¬ ric so that the hem edge is one thread from the outer edge of the square of drawn threads. Mitre the comers, tuck

■accidentally draw a thread too far, you

any loose threads into the hem and tack the hem in place.

can carefully weave it back in, but as this is a tedious job, it is best to work

5 Stitch back from B to A and bring

in very short sections as you approach

the needle out at C, which is just

the comers.

above the crochet cotton. Work the

i.TJL’yns wii«iWi‘TiTJLnrJLTJ

next stitch from C down to B, bring¬ ing the needle out at D.

SISSilBofin

SlBaiaiar'i

3 Working from the wrong side, start

iSIS'l«

at the left edge and take a small verti¬ cal stitch just to the right of the drawn thread work, making sure you catch in

'T474T."

6 Stitch back from D to B

and bring

the hem. Pass the needle around tliree

the needle out at E. Repeat this stitch

or four threads and pull them together

4 WTien the inner square of drawn

sequence until the crochet cotton is

in a bundle.

threads is complete, weave the loose

anchored to the design line.

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