The Full-Fashioned Hosiery Worker: His Changing Economic Status [Reprint 2016 ed.] 9781512818970

Table of contents :
PREFACE
CONTENTS
TABLES
CHARTS
APPENDIX TABLES
CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER II. THE NATURE OF THE FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY INDUSTRY
CHAPTER III. COLLECTIVE BARGAINING IN THE FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY INDUSTRY
CHAPTER IV. EARNINGS OF FULL-TIME WORKERS
CHAPTER V. THE RELATION OF ANNUAL EARNINGS TO AGE, TENURE, AND TYPE OF MACHINE OPERATED
CHAPTER VI. WEEKLY HOURS AND EARNINGS
CHAPTER VII. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS
APPENDIX A. FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY PROCESSES AND OCCUPATIONS
APPENDIX B. THE 1929 AND THE 1930 AGREEMENTS BETWEEN THE AMERICAN FEDERATION OF FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY WORKERS AND THE FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY MANUFACTURERS, INCORPORATED
APPENDIX C. TABLES
BIBLIOGRAPHY
INDEX

Citation preview

INDUSTRIAL WHARTON

RESEARCH

DEPARTMENT

SCHOOL OF F I N A N C E

UNIVERSITY

OF

AND COMMERCE

PENNSYLVANIA

PHILADELPHIA

RESEARCH STUDIES XIII THE FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY WORKER

L I S T OF P U B L I C A T I O N S OF T H E I N D U S T R I A L RESEARCH DEPARTMENT I. Earnings and Working Opportunity in the Upholstery Weavers' Trade in 25 Plants in Philadelphia, by Anne Bezanson, $2.50. II. Collective Bargaining among Photo-Engravers in Philadelphia, by Charles Leese, $2.50. I I I . Trends in Foundry Production in the Philadelphia Area, by Anne Bezanson and Robert Gray, $1.50. IV. Significant Post-War Changes in the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry, by George W. Taylor, $2.00. V. Earnings in Certain Standard Machine-Tool Occupations in Philadelphia, by H. L . Frain, $1.50. VI. An Analysis of the Significance and Use of HelpWanted Advertising in Philadelphia, by Anne Bezanson, $2.00. VII. An Analysis of Production of Worsted Sales Yarn, by Alfred H. Williams, Martin A. Brumbaugh, and Hiram S. Davis, $2.50. VIII. The Future Movement of Iron Ore and Coal in Relation to the St. Lawrence Waterway, by Fayette S. Warner, $3.00. I X . Group Incentives—Some Variations in the Use of Group Bonus and Gang Piece Work, by C. C. Balderston, $2.50. X. Wage Methods and Selling Costs, by Anne Bezanson and Miriam Hussey, $4.50. X I . Wages—A Means of Testing Their Adequacy, by Morris E. Leeds and C. C. Balderston, $1.50. X I I . Case Studies of Unemployment, by Helen Hall, Paul U. Kellogg, and Marion Elderton, $3.00.

THE FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY WORKER HIS CHANGING ECONOMIC STATUS

BY GEORGE

W.

TAYLOR

Indttffrial Research Department Wharton School of Finance and Commerce University of Pennsylvania and Albright College

PHILADELPHIA UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA PRESS

1931

Copyright, 1931, by the UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA PRESS

Printed in the UWITBD STATES o r AMBKICA

PREFACE Modern industry has impressed observers with its dynamic nature. The full-fashioned hosiery industry has been particularly subject to changing economic conditions during the comparatively few years of its period of rapid growth. Such tendencies to change make it particularly difficult to understand economic processes while their force is being felt. T h e collection, tabulation, and interpretation of a large amount of statistical data must be related to the position of an industry at a particular instant of time, or over a certain period of time. The understanding of the forces that are active within the selected period goes on as industry moves to a new position. T h e present study aims to present the economic background of the wage problem and of the factors that have influenced collective bargaining arrangements in the fullfashioned hosiery industry. It has been felt that the wage situation can be understood only as it appears as a part of a total industrial situation. A study of wages cannot isolate earnings data from other phases of the industrial problem, if wages are to be properly understood. There has also been presented in this study certain factual material regarding wages in 1928 and particularly in 1929 in six selected occupations in representative union plants of the full-fashioned hosiery industry. While these wage facts are, by themselves, of importance, of greater interest are the relations between wages that vary with individuals, between plants, and with age and conditions of work. Earnings received by workers in 1929, and here presented, are historical in nature. However, the problems that can be understood as a result of a comprehension of variations in wages are of importance at any time. It seems logical to suppose that the problems that can be indirectly understood from an analysis of 1929 wage data are still pertinent problems in 1931 or in any year. AccordV

VI

PREFACE

ingly, the object of the section directly concerned with earnings, is the understanding of basic problems, rather than merely the presentation of wage facts. Many individuals and firms have aided in the preparation of this study. My sincere thanks are due to Mr. William Drexel, of the Propper-McCallum Hosiery Company for his interest in the beginnings of the study, and to Mr. Solon E. Summerfield, of the Gotham Silk Hosiery Company, Incorporated, for his support that made it possible to collect the payroll information used. Mr. Gustave Geiges has given invaluable help and suggestions in the preparation of Chapter I I I , while Mr. John Beaber aided materially in the collection of information for the same chapter. Mr. Beaber analyzed the numerous records that were made available through the kindness of the officers of the American Federation of Full-Fashioned Hosiery Workers. The officials of the cooperating concerns really made this study possible by allowing the use of their payroll records, often undergoing considerable expense in providing the necessary data. Their confidence and cooperation has been of great encouragement. To these members of the full-fashioned hosiery industry, and to the many others "in the trade" who have helped so materially, I wish to state my indebtedness. The members of the Industrial Research Department have been most loyal in providing the assistance that made possible the publication of this work. Miss Louise Palmer and Miss Charlotte Evans aided materially in transcription and computation of the original data. Miss Helene R. Wassell and Miss Lillian P. Goodman rendered invaluable service in the tabulation of all material and in so capably attending to the preparation of the charts and the final report. The valuable advice of Miss Miriam Hussey and of Dr. Alfred H . Williams were of great help in completing the study. Mr. Robert Gray also aided by suggestions relating to statistical procedure. To all who aided in the work of making this investigation, I express my sincere appreciation. GEORGE W . TAYLOR

CONTENTS CHAPTER I II

PACE

INTRODUCTION THE

NATURE

I OF THE F U L L - F A S H I O N E D H O S I E R Y

INDUSTRY

. . . .

13

III

C O L L E C T I V E B A R G A I N I N G IN T H E F U L L - F A S H I O N E D H O S I E R Y I N D U S T R Y

¡2

IV

E A R N I N G S OF F U L L - T I M E

89

V

THE

WORKERS

R E L A T I O N OF A N N U A L E A R N I N G S TO A G E , T E N U R E , A N D

TYPE

OF M A C H I N E O P E R A T E D VI VII

134

W E E K L Y H O U R S AND E A R N I N G S

IJI

SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS

178

APPENDIX A

FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY PROCESSES AND OCCUPATIONS

B

T H E 1 9 2 9 AND THE 1 9 3 0 AGREEMENTS BETWEEN THE AMERICAN FEDERATION

184

OF FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY WORKERS AND THE FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY MANUFACTURERS, INCCRPCRATED C

TABLES

190 211

BIBLIOGRAPHY

131

INDEX

»33

TABLES TABLE

Hours and Earnings of Knitters in the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry — 1 9 1 3 to 1924 2 Hours and Earnings of Knitters and Helpers in the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry, 1926, 1928, and 1930 3 Hours and Earnings of Toppers in the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry — 1 9 1 3 to 1930 4 Hours and Earnings of Seamers in the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry — 1 9 1 3 to 1930 J Relative Real Hourly Earnings in Three Occupations in the FullFashioned Hosiery Industry—1913 to 1930 6 Relative Changes in Hourly Earnings—1913 to 1930 7 Stock on Hand of Women's Full-Fashioned Hosiery—1930 8 Number of Workers in Each Occupation Included in This Stody in Comparison with Total Number in All Union Establishments—1929 . . 9 Number of Full-Time and Part-Time Workers Included in This Study

PACE

1

10 11 12 13 14 IJ 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

—1929 Average Annual Earnings of Full-Time Union Workers in the FullFashioned Hosiery Industry—1928 and 1929 Annual Earnings of Full-Time Workers in Six Occupations in Union Plants, Plant Averages—1928 Annual Earnings of Full-Time Workers in Six Occupations in Union Plants, Plant Averages—1929 Rank of Firms in Size of Plant Average for Full-Time Annual Earnings, By Occupation—1929 Rank of Firms in Size of Plant Average for Full-Time Annual Earnings, B y Occupation—1928 Frequency by Annual Earnings of Full-Time Leggers in Union Plants . Frequency by Annual Earnings of Full-Time Footers in Union Plants . Frequency by Annual Earnings of Full-Time Toppers in Union Plants . Frequency by Annual Earnings of Full-Time Loopers in Union Plants . Frequency by Annual Earnings of Full-Time Seamers in Union Plants . Frequency by Annual Earnings of Full-Time Boarders in Union Plants . Deciles of Annual Earnings of Full-Time Workers in Six Occupations in Union Plants Ages of Workers in Union Plants of the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry as of December 3 1 , 1929—By Occupation Average Annual Earnings of Full-Time Workers—1929, Classified by Occupation and Age Percentage of Full-Time Leggers Earning Specified Incomes in 1929 Classified by Age Groups Percentage of Full-Time Footers Earning Specified Incomes in 1929 Classified by Age Groups ix

14 16 18 19 22 24 38 92 93 96 102 104 107 109 ill 113 118 119 121 126 129 135 138 140 142

TABLES

X

(Continued)

TABLE

26

PAGE

38

Percentage of Full-Time Leggers Earning Specified Incomes in 1929 Classified by Tenure Percentage of Full-Time Footers Earning Specified Incomes in 1929 Classified by Tenure Percentage of Full-Time Leggers Earning Specified Incomes in 1929 Classified by Gauge and Section of Machine Operated Percentage of Full-Time Footers Earning Specified Incomes in 1929 Classified by Gauge and Section of Machine Operated Average Weekly Earnings of All Workers in Eighteen Union Plants of the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry in 1929—Six Selected Occupations Location of Weekly Earnings of Knitters According to Quartiles—1929 Location of Weekly Earnings of Toppers, Loopers, and Seamers According to Quartiles—1929 Location of Weekly Earnings of Boarders According to Quartiles—1929 Average Weekly Hours of Work of All Workers in Six Plants of the FullFashioned Hosiery Industry—Six Selected Occupations—1929 . . . Percentage of Leggers Working Specified Number of Hours per Week— 1929 Percentage of Footers Working Specified Number of Hours per Week— 1929 Percentage of Toppers Working Specified Number of Hours per Week— 1929 Percentage of Loopers Working Specified Number of Hours per Week—

39

1929 Percentage of Seamers Working Specified Number of Hours per Week—

'73

1929 Percentage of Female Boarders Working Specified Number of Hours per Week—1929

'7S

27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37

40

I43 144 147 I48

154 160 162 163 167 170 171 172

176

CHARTS CHART

I II

III

IV V VI VII

VIII IX X XI XII

XIII XIV XV

XVI XVII

PACE

Hourly-Earned Rates in the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry . . . Monthly Production, Stock on Hand, and Unfilled Orders of Women's Full-Fashioned Hosiery in the United States, 1924-1930 (Absolute scale) Monthly Production, Stock on Hand, and Unfilled Orders of Women's Full-Fashioned Hosiery in the United States, 1924-1930 (Logarithmic scale) Monthly Production, Women's Full-Fashioned Hosiery in the United States, 1 9 2 4 - 1 9 3 0 Monthly Stock on Hand, Women's Full-Fashioned Hosiery in the United States, 1 9 2 4 - 1 9 3 0 Monthly Unfilled Orders, Women's Full-Fashioned Hosiery in the United States, 1 9 2 4 - 1 9 3 0 Index Numbers of Monthly D a t a on Stock on Hand, Unfilled Orders, and Shipments in the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry, (January 1 9 2 4 = 1 0 0 per c e n t ) Average Earnings of Full-Time Union Workers in the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry, B y Occupation—1928 and 1929 T y p i c a l Union Plant Averages of Full-Time Annual Earnings in the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry, B y Occupation—1928 and 1929 Frequency Distribution of Percentages of Full-Time Knitters in Union Plants Earning Specified Incomes in 1929 Cumulative Percentages of Full-Time Knitters in Union Plants Earning Less than Specified Incomes in 1929 Frequency Distribution of Percentages of Full-Time Toppers, Loopers, and Seamers in Union Plants Earning Specified Incomes in 1929 Cumulative Percentages of Full-Time Toppers, Loopers, and Seamers in Union Plants Earning Less than Specified Incomes in 1929 . . Frequency Distribution of Percentages of Full-Time Boarders in Union Plants Earning Specified Incomes in 1929 Deciles of Annual Earnings of Full-Time Workers in Six Occupations in Union Plants of the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry—Location of Earnings of Each Successive Tenth of Workers Reported . . . Average Annual Earnings of Full-Time Workers, 1929, Classified by Occupation and Age Average Weekly Earnings of All Workers in Eighteen Union Plants of the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry in 1929, Six Selected Occupations

20

33

3J 41 43 44

46 101 105 iij 117

122 124 128

131 139

157

APPENDIX TABLES TABLE

PAGE

1

M o n t h l y P r o d u c t i o n , S t o c k o n H a n d , a n d Unfilled O r d e r s o f W o m e n ' s

2

I n d e x N u m b e r s o f M o n t h l y D a t a o f S t o c k on H a n d , U n f i l l e d O r d e r s , a n d

Fall-Fashioned

H o s i e r y in t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s — 1 9 2 4 - 1 9 3 0

an

S h i p m e n t s o f W o m e n ' s F u l l - F a s h i o n e d H o s i e r y in the U n i t e d S t a t e s ( J a n u a r y 1 9 2 4 — 1 0 0 per c e n t ) 3

A g e s o f F u l l - T i m e W o r k e r s in U n i o n P l a n t s o f the F u l l - F a s h i o n e d H o s i e r y

4

D i s t r i b u t i o n o f F u l l - T i m e W o r k e r s b y O c c u p a t i o n , A g e , a n d I n c o m e s in

J

D i s t r i b u t i o n o f F u l l - T i m e W o r k e r s b y O c c u p a t i o n , T e n u r e , and I n c o m e s

6

D i s t r i b u t i o n o f F u l l - T i m e K n i t t e r s b y I n c o m e and b y G a u g e a n d S e c t i o n

7

D e c i l e s o f W e e k l y E a r n i n g s o f W o r k e r s in S i x S e l e c t e d O c c u p a t i o n s o f t h e

8

D i s t r i b u t i o n o f W o r k e r s b y O c c u p a t i o n a n d W e e k l y H o u r s in E a c h M o n t h

I n d u s t r y , a s o f D e c e m b e r 3 1 , 1929, B y O c c u p a t i o n 1929 in 1929 of Machine Operated—1929 Full-Fashioned Hosiery I n d u s t r y — 1 9 2 9 o f 1929

214 21J 216 220 224 22J 227

CHAPTER

I

INTRODUCTION While this study is entitled " T h e Full-Fashioned Hosiery Worker—His Changing Economic Status," and while the particular aim has been to record the wages paid and the hours worked in 1929 in the unionized section of the fashioned hosiery industry, it has been necessary to consider the fundamentals of the general economic setting of the industry. It is being realized, to an increasing degree, that individual industrial conditions are a part of a "total situation" that is changing constantly. The status of employee earnings, for instance, can be understood only if the production tendencies and the price situation are comprehended, as well as numerous other factors that make up the "total situation" of the hosiery industry. In this study, therefore, the aim is to understand the earnings that prevailed in an important branch of the full-fashioned hosiery industry in 1929 by understanding their relation to the industry. Of the approximately 347 establishments engaged in the manufacture of full-fashioned hosiery in the United States in 1929, forty-three concerns, operating fifty-three plants, were signatories to a national labor agreement with the American Federation of Full-Fashioned Hosiery Workers. These "union plants" operated, in 1929, approximately 28 per cent of the equipment of the full-fashioned hosiery industry. This study has been centered about the earnings that were made in these plants in 1928 and particularly in 1929. From early in 1 9 2 1 until September 1929 most of the so-called union plants had individual verbal agreements with the national union1 or with its local bodies. These agree1

T h e American Federation of Full-Fashioned Hosiery Workers has headquarters in Philadelphia, the largest producing center of full-fashioned hosiery in the country. The federation is composed of local unions which retain the

1

2

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

ments were concerned principally with wage rates, hours of work, the helper regulations, and the acceptance of the principle of one knitter to one machine. 2 Practically all of the principal occupations in the industry are paid on a piece-rate basis. T h e union has never set a day rate as an objective because it believes that piece rates compensate for the differences in individual skill. Previous to 1929, the prevailing rates varied between the different sections of the unionized branch of the industry. Moreover, the degree of unionization of individual shops varied from an organization embracing all departments to one that included only the knitters. O n September 1, 1929, a formal agreement was effected between the federation and the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Manufacturers of America, Incorporated, a newly formed association of union manufacturers. T h e 1929 agreement provided, with a few exceptions, uniform legging and footing rates in all union shops, and was also significant for its creation of the office of Impartial Chairman. 8 T h e chairman was empowered to render those decisions necessary to interpret the national agreement, which had been signed individually by each contracting union firm and by the union officials. O f course, it was the creation of this arbitration machinery that made it possible to include in the labor contract a clause that prohibited strikes or lockouts during the term of the agreement. A further notable provision of the 1929 agreement allowed signatory firms to operate no more than 25 per cent of the total knitting machines in any one mill as "double-leggers," i.e., with one knitter and one helper for right of bargaining with the manufacturers in their district with regard to conditions and even with regard to rates in instances of disputed styles. T h e federation is affiliated with the American Federation of Labor through the United Textile Workers. ' T h e "two-machine system" is usually considered as being applicable to leggers of 18 to ao sections, slow-speed type. T h e 24-section high-speed legger is, at present, not usually operated, even in non-union shops, as a double job, that is, with one knitter and one helper to two machines. Moreover, the usual practice with footers is f o r one man to operate one machine. * Dr. Paul Abelson was selected f o r this office.

INTRODUCTION

3

each two legging machines. This change of the established union policy of "one man to one machine" enabled the union to accept lower piece rates on double jobs since one knitter would normally produce a greater daily output on two machines than on a single machine. This saving in cost of production, combined with a slight reduction in rates through the revision of payments to knitters for "extras," 4 was made to allow the union firms, a minority of all full-fashioned hosiery concerns, to compete with the lower-rate non-union firms. The latter firms had, in numerous instances, already utilized the "double-machine system" to reduce production costs below the costs of firms operating on a single-machine basis. During the course of the negotiations incident to the formulation of the 1929 agreement, some apprehension was expressed by members of the manufacturers' committee concerning the balance of the union wage rate structure in general, and the balance of the payments for extras in particular. 5 Those details of hosiery construction that are compensated for as extras have been ordinarily introduced as novelty features. Their extra rate has been set, in many instances, in the light of the immediate demand for what is then an innovation. Or, at other times, rates have depended, to some extent, upon the relative bargaining strength of the interested parties at the time the " e x t r a " was first introduced. It would have been strange if the scale for extras had developed a proper balance. That the basic rates on certain styles appeared, to some manufacturers, to be out of balance was an even more important apprehension than that relating to extras. It was felt that different types of work did * T h e " e x t r a s " involve additional payments over specified basic knitting rates f o r such types of construction as picot, stripes, f a n c y heels, etc. ° A balanced wage scale means that extra skill and effort is compensated f o r in proportion to the increase of effort and ability. I f one type of w o r k takes a longer time to knit than the standard stocking, the rate should compensate justly f o r the extra time. An unbalanced w a g e rate scale might a l l o w earnings f o r extras that over- or undercompensate on particular jobs as compared with the basic type of production.

4

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

not receive compensation proportionate to the varying degrees of skill and effort involved in performance. A s a result of the desire to determine rates more scientifically, a provision for a Time and Effort Study Committee was made in the 1929 agreement. T h i s was effected through the following section of the agreement: "Basic rates for knitting are to remain the same, but all other rates, such as extras, etc., which apply to gum work 8 only, are temporary and are subject to change after a time and effort study has been conducted by a committee of three experts, one to be chosen by the manufacturers, one to be chosen by the union, and an impartial expert to be chosen by the first two. Each operation in the manufacture of hosiery will be so studied, and as fast as the work on each operation is concluded, the revised rate will go into effect." In discussions with manufacturers and union officials of the work of the Time and Effort Study Committee there developed a realization of the need for data relating to wage rates and earnings in the full-fashioned hosiery industry. T i m e study as a general tool of management, or as particularly used in the formulation of a wage scale, serves very definite and important functions. However, after time studies provide the material which is basic in securing a proper balance of rates, the determination of actual rates implies the existence of some concept of the daily, weekly, or yearly earnings that are to be earned under the rates. In devising a wage scale, "time and effort" must be translated into cents per piece or per hour, in which process there is a need for some generally accepted idea of the earning to be attained under the suggested rates. T h e request for information in this respect provided the initial impetus to the present study. " G u m silk is d e g u m m e d and dyed a f t e r k n i t t i n g ; the s t o c k i n g m a d e of this silk is c a l l e d g u m - s i l k hosiery. It f o r m s the b u l k o f the hosiery output. W h e n silk w a s first used in the m a n u f a c t u r e o f f u l l - f a s h i o n e d hosiery, it w a s dyed b e f o r e k n i t t i n g , the stockings so knit b e i n g termed i n g r a i n hosiery. It w a s not until 1 9 1 7 that g u m silk became g e n e r a l l y used in k n i t t i n g . E v e n then, it w a s preceded by w h a t w a s k n o w n as " b o i l e d - o f f s i l k , " the silk b e i n g d e g u m m e d b e f o r e k n i t t i n g and d i p - d y e d subsequent to k n i t t i n g . T h i s p r o d u c t never g a i n e d widespread p o p u l a r i t y .

INTRODUCTION

5

Our investigation, therefore, centers about the actual earnings that were made in 1928 and in 1 9 2 9 by employees in union shops of the full-fashioned hosiery industry. Since the inception of this work, rapid changes have occurred in the rate structure utilized in union full-fashioned hosiery plants. These were made prior to the completion of the job undertaken by the T i m e and E f f o r t Committee. Accordingly, the data here compiled are interesting not directly for their value in setting rates at present, but primarily as a record of the wage level reached by union full-fashioned hosiery workers in 1 9 2 9 , before deflation of hosiery prices, profits, and wages in 1 9 3 0 . F o r several years previous to 1 9 2 9 , the wages of f u l l fashioned hosiery workers were commonly supposed to be higher than those in any other textile trade, or even than in any other wage-earning group. These high rates in the hosiery industry were, however, decreased in 1 9 3 0 , and they show no signs of stability in 1 9 3 1 . T h i s study has therefore caught a picture of the high level of hosiery wages temporarily attained in 1 9 2 9 . T h e prevailing notion of the level of 1 9 2 9 earnings in the full-fashioned hosiery industry is, in many cases, somewhat distorted. D u r i n g the course of this study, we have frequently been told, quite earnestly, that it is the exceptional full-fashioned hosiery knitter who earns less than $ 1 0 0 a week. T h i s popular notion has been tested in the present study and, while we may say that in 1 9 2 9 knitters earned a high wage compared with the earnings of other skilled textile workers, they did not generally receive the earnings attributed to them in many discussions. Actual facts concerning 1 9 2 9 earnings in the unionized section of the hosiery industry may help to clarify the impressions of the general public in this respect. T h e economist concerned with wage problems may be interested in the facts of the f u l l fashioned hosiery wage level, which in 1 9 2 9 ranked among the highest in American industry. T h e increasing production and the growing consumer's demand that led to the development of this wage level, as well as the readjustments in

6

THE FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

rates now taking place as a buyer's market has d e v e l o p e d , a f f o r d an interesting illustration of factors necessitating w a g e rate adjustment. T o the economist, the full-fashioned hosiery industry is significant not merely because it produces a commodity that is now regarded as an essential part of the feminine costume. I n addition, the industry has been one of the most rapidly growing industries in the country. Since 1 9 1 4 it has quadrupled its yearly output and then quadrupled it again. I n 1 9 2 9 alone, it expanded its productive capacity by at least 2 5 per cent of the already large 1 9 2 8 capacity. W h i l e in 1 9 2 5 this industry could not produce enough fashioned hosiery to meet an expanding demand, in 1 9 3 0 it has been estimated that the same industry is 3 0 per cent o v e r d e v e l oped. 7 T h e full-fashioned hosiery industry has thus, in the space of a f e w years, experienced the industrial development that is often spread over a century. I n 1 9 1 3 , the full-fashioned hosiery industry developed its first national union, but this did not actually pass the f o r m a tive stage until 1 9 2 1 . D u r i n g the period f r o m 1 9 2 1 to 1 9 3 0 this same union, cooperating with a group of manufacturers, developed a national agreement with comparatively u n i f o r m knitting rates and working conditions, an impartial chairman, a joint union and management time and effort study committee, and a national unemployment insurance fund. 8 Certainly an industry that so rapidly develops f r o m infancy to maturity provides an interesting example of the working of dynamic economic laws. T h i s rapid development is evidenced by industrial and collective bargaining changes. I t is hoped that the present study m a y prove of interest to those " i n the t r a d e . " T h e y w i l l be particularly interested in the scope of the study. T h e data regarding earnings have been secured f r o m shops that in 1 9 2 9 had signed a union agreement, which shops have a wide geographical distribu7 "Full-Fashioned Hosiery Trends," Textile World, April 1 2 , 1930, by the present writer. " T h e essentials of the 1929 and 1930 national agreements have been reproduced in Appendix B.

INTRODUCTION

7

tion 9 and include large as well as small shops. 10 F r o m the analysis of the payroll records of the union plants it is possible to understand earnings in one important section of the industry, the only section where relative uniformity of rates and conditions allows comparison of earnings between individual plants. It cannot be said that the conclusions of this study are typical of the wage situation of the entire industry; they do, however, apply to earnings and rates in the unionized section of the industry, which, in a very real sense, provides the base for the determination of conditions and rates in other sections of the country. It is hoped that those " i n the trade" may be interested in the discussion of the manner in which the union wage scale developed, and in the consideration of the economic forces that have caused wages to increase and which now appear to be depressing the level of earnings. T h a t portion of the study which deals with wages is based upon the payroll records of twenty-seven plants of the fiftythree signatories of the 1 9 2 9 National Labor Agreement. 1 1 T h e cooperating concerns furnished yearly earnings, weekly earnings, and, where available, hours worked each week by employees in six of the major occupations of the industry. Unfortunately, data concerning hours of work were available f r o m but six concerns of the twenty-seven cooperating in this study. W h i l e the sample of hours of work is much smaller than the data on yearly and weekly earnings, it is large enough to offer some means of understanding the opportunity f o r work in each of the occupations considered. " Definite districts in which union plants are located are the Philadelphia area, the New Jersey-New Y o r k district, N e w England, and the M i d d l e West. W e have secured data f r o m plants in each district. 10 A large shop in the full-fashioned hosiery industry may be considered to be one that operates 100 machines or more; a small shop may be defined as one that houses less than 25 machines. F o r a discussion of the size of establishments in the f u l l - f a s h i o n e d hosiery industry, see the author's article, "Location and Size of Establishments in the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry," Cotton, September 1 9 2 9 . 11 Several concerns operated more than one mill, in which cases data f o r all mills under one management are combined to represent one establishment.

8

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

T h a t the hours-worked data are so meagre is attributable to the paucity of such information on the records of the industry. T h e data used in this study as a basis for computing earnings were secured directly from the payroll records of cooperating concerns. In some cases, the payroll records were copied in the offices of the Industrial Research Department by our own assistants; in one case, photostatic copies of individual payroll cards were made available. Whenever the records were reproduced on our forms by company employees, a statement of the accuracy of the records was secured from a responsible company official. In addition, in most instances, checks were made of the accuracy of the transcription by testing at random. Some mention should be made of the peculiar characteristics of prevailing union rates and wages in the years considered in this study, 1928 and 1929. In 1928, certain minor adjustments occurred in the scale of wage rates, particularly as a result of efforts directed toward the elimination of differentials between the various union districts. Attention has already been directed to other changes in rates and operating conditions that took place during the fall of 1929, changes that again were made in order to eliminate differentials. This time, the differentials that were in question were those existing between union and non-union areas. It has been estimated by union officials, and by union manufacturers, that the rate adjustments on extras made in 1929 reduced the wages of knitters by amounts varying between 6 and 7^2 per cent. During the period from about September 1919 to the middle of 1929, all leggers 12 in union shops were permitted to operate single machines only; after that date, it became possible for 25 per cent of the equipment in union plants to be run as "double jobs," but only after a gradual doubling u In trade p a r l a n c e , the w o r d " l e g g e r " is used t o indicate the machine on w h i c h the l e g o f the s t o c k i n g is knit as w e l l as the knitter in c h a r g e o f that machine. A s i m i l a r d u a l usage o f the w o r d " f o o t e r " occurs. In this study these w o r d s are used to s i g n i f y either the machines or the knitters. N o confusion should arise as a result, since the context o f each sentence w i l l make c l e a r the manner in w h i c h each w o r d is b e i n g used.

INTRODUCTION

9

during the first six months of the term of the agreement. Some difficulties would enter our comparison of earnings between years and between plants if considerable "doubling u p " of leggers occurred during the last four months of 1 9 2 9 . It does not appear, however, that a serious variable is introduced by the limited amount of " d o u b l i n g - u p " that was made possible under the 1 9 2 9 agreement. It was definitely stated in this contract that "it is understood and agreed that there shall be no more than 1 5 per cent of the total equipment in any given factory doubled-up during the first six months after this agreement has been entered into, and that during the second six months no more than 1 0 per cent additional of the total equipment shall be doubled-up." Besides the limitation on the number of machines to be doubled during the first six months, a further portion of the agreement stated that " n o employer shall discharge knitters now operating single-machines, solely for the purpose of taking advantage of the reduced rates affecting the two-machine system of operation." From the restrictions on rapid doubling of machines that were imposed by the inclusion in the contract of the above-mentioned provision, and from the necessity of gradually adapting the administrative forces to the new basis of operation, it can be assumed that in 1 9 2 8 and in 1 9 2 9 all the leggers in union shops worked on a single-machine basis. This relative uniformity of operating conditions in union shops in 1 9 2 8 and 1 9 2 9 , as well as the uniformity in wage rates, makes it advantageous to limit this study to union shops. In non-union shops, 13 different leggers may operate one, two, or more machines, with a varying number of helpers. T h e same leggers may also operate a varying number of machines at different periods of time. Variations in the earnings of employees in non-union mills may be due to methods of machine operation 5 all the knitters whose earnings were 13

T h o s e not h a v i n g entered into c o n t r a c t u a l relations w i t h the union. C e r t a i n o f these plants operate on an open-shop basis, h i r i n g either union o r n o n union men.

10

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

secured for this study operated one machine each for the same number of scheduled hours per week, and all knitters doing the same type of work received practically the same piecerate. I t has been emphasized that the piece-rates paid to knitters were practically uniform for all union shops in 1 9 2 8 and in 1 9 2 9 . This situation did not prevail in the other producing departments, although it was "understood" that certain "union rates" were to be paid to the auxiliary help. T h e first national agreement in 1 9 2 9 , which was also the first formal contract between the manufacturers and the union, made no reference to rates payable in departments other than the knitter and helper divisions. T o be sure, the piece-rates for other department employees were embodied in the 1 9 3 0 conthact, although, as will be seen later, their acceptance was not a cordial one on the part of either manufacturers or union. T h e occupations for which earnings have been studied are the six that are relatively uniform in job content throughout the industry. T h e y include legging, footing, topping, looping, seaming, and boarding. 14 A host of other occupations are typical of this industry, such as winding, boxing, pairing, folding, stamping, mending, end pulling, examining, etc. H o w e v e r , the six occupations here considered call for specialized skill of a comparatively high order 1 5 and are considered as direct labor occupations. W e should like to have included menders as well as leggers' helpers (and footers' helpers where employed) in this study. Unfortunately the methods of operating these departments vary so much between establishments that it was thought advisable to confine the study to the six occupations above enumerated. T h i s study of earnings, originally designed as an adjunct to the work of the T i m e and E f f o r t Committee, has been directed from its original objective by the rapid march of events in the full-fashioned hosiery industry. Instead of being directed only toward the development of a rate structure, " F o r a description of the nature of each of these operations, see Appendix A . " Boarding may be an exception to this statement.

INTRODUCTION

11

it has become a record of earnings in 1 9 2 8 and in 1 9 2 9 , when rates, employment, and conditions of work were not subject to radical changes. Industrial expansion of the hosiery industry previous to 1 9 2 8 had resulted in a steady increase of union rates and of general rates of wages. This led to levels of rates and earnings that seemed to reach their peaks in 1 9 2 8 and in 1 9 2 9 . A f t e r a period of uncertainty toward the close of 1 9 2 9 , the full-fashioned hosiery industry experienced a period of rapid deflation which brought prices and profits to a lower level in 1 9 3 0 and which caused wage rates to be sharply reduced. Chapter I I I , devoted to the development of the rate structure in union shops, will discuss the details of the more than 20 per cent reduction in wage rates accepted by the union. Undoubtedly these reduced rates, coupled with the reduced 1 9 3 0 production of fashioned hosiery, resulted in yearly incomes for hosiery workers that, in 1 9 3 0 , were considerably below the 1 9 2 9 level. Fortunately, in securing the earnings of union full-fashioned hosiery workers in 1 9 2 9 , there has been caught a picture of the high level of earnings caused by rapid industrial expansion, and already beginning its deflation. T h e fact will be emphasized that in this case, the deflation of earnings seems to have been hastened by the differentials in rates of wages that persist between union and non-union areas. It also seems essential again to mention that in considering the status of earnings in 1928 and in 1 9 2 9 as the point of central interest, it is possible f u l l y to understand earnings only as they are placed in the "total situation" of the industry. Accordingly, it has been desirable to discuss the trend in full-fashioned hosiery hourly earned rates in past years, so far as it was possible to secure this information. In Chapter I I these trends are considered in relation to the production and equipment problems of the industry. Wages are better understood when they are analyzed in the light of the conditions of production, stock on hand, and similar matters. Moreover, any appraisal of the success of the efforts of the manufacturers and the union in formulating two national

12

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

w a g e agreements must rest upon a review of the past strivings of the y o u t h f u l full-fashioned hosiery industry toward wage-rate agreements. W i t h this fact in mind, it was deemed important to insert Chapter I I I in this study, with its recital of the dealings between the union and "union manufacture r s " that culminated in the 1930 agreement. T h e n , f o l l o w i n g the development of the background of industrial and economic conditions in the industry, as well as the history of collective bargaining in its unionized section, Chapter I V presents the findings relative to the annual earnings of f u l l time employees in union shops in 1928 and in 1929. L o g i c a l l y f o l l o w i n g this discussion are the data pertaining to w e e k l y and hourly rates.

C H A P T E R II THE N A T U R E OF THE FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY INDUSTRY Before considering the rate structure and the earnings opportunities in the full-fashioned hosiery industry 1 the plan of study is to indicate clearly some aspects of the nature of the industry, as well as the changes that have occurred and that are now occurring in its economic position. Earnings and rate changes can be understood only as they are seen in their place in the "total situation" of the industry: they are not isolated phenomena 5 they are directly related to other economic aspects of industry. From 1 9 1 9 , when 6,323,934 dozen pairs of full-fashioned hosiery were produced, the annual output of this type of hosiery increased steadily until 1 9 2 7 , when 1 9 , 7 7 1 , 0 3 0 dozen pairs were knit in the United States. 2 This represented an increase in yearly production of over 200 per cent, which was absorbed by an increasing consumer demand without resulting in a serious increase in stocks on hand at manufacturing establishments. From the monthly reports of the Department of Commerce on "Hosiery Production, Stock, Unfilled Orders, etc." it has been estimated 3 that, in 1 9 2 9 , over 26,500,000 dozen pairs of full-fashioned hosiery were produced, which output was more than four times the an1 We are particularly concerned with women's hosiery, since full-fashioned hosiery f o r men is a very small percentage of the total production of men's hosiery (2.9 per cent in 1 9 2 7 ) . For a discussion of the difference between fullfashioned and seamless hosiery, and the methods of manufacture of these products, see the study of the Industrial Research Department, Significant Post-War Changes in the Full-Fashioned. Hosiery Industry, by G. W. Taylor, p. 1 2 1 . 'Department of Commerce, Biennial Census of Manufactures f o r "Knit Goods" f o r years indicated, Washington, D. C. ' In the author's article, "Full-Fashioned Industry is in a Sound Position," Underwear & Hosiery Review, March 1930. 13

THE

14

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

nual production of 1 9 1 9 . T h e increasing yearly output since 1 9 2 7 has not been absorbed as easily as the earlier production. W h i l e data pertaining to full-fashioned hosiery production prior to 1 9 1 9 are not available, the upward trend in production seemed to begin as early as 1 9 1 4 , if the equipment added y e a r l y to the industry can be taken as a criterion. Accordi n g l y , rates of wages and the earnings under these rates were determined prior to 1928 in a seller's market which caused a notable expansion in equipment and in production. T h e increasing annual production of fashioned hosiery over a period of years was accompanied by an increase in w a g e rates 4 and in earnings. T h i s is evident from data reported in a recent bulletin of the United States Bureau of L a b o r Statistics, 5 published in December 1929. T a b l e 1, based upon data from the above-mentioned bulletin, is introduced in order to relate the trend in hosiery production, just briefly considered, to the trend that occurred in earnings. In this connection, attention is directed to the fact that the data which are available permit, not an exact correlation, but rather an understanding of general tendencies. TABLE

1

H O U R S AND E A R N I N G S o r K N I T T E R S * IN T H E F U L L - F A S H I O N E D H O S I E R Y INDUSTRY 1 9 1 3 TO 1 9 2 4

Full-Time Average Hours per Week

Average Earnings per H o u r

Average Full-Time Earnings per Week

Year Hours

I913. I9I4. 1919. I922. I924.

.. . . . . . . ..

Relative

1

IOO.O

54.8

99 5

51-7 52.9

93-8 96.0

5° 5

91 -7

55

Earnings

Relative

Earnings

Relative

.407 .640 .861 I.O99

IOO.O IO4.4 164.I 220.8 281.8

$21.49 22.31

IOO.O 103.8 I54.O 2I2.0

33 ° 9 4 5 • 55 55 50

Number of Establishments

Number of Knitters

9 9 5 15 26

465

258.3

507 377 1196 1728

* Includes leggers and footers.

Since 1922, data similar to the above have been provided biennially; before 1922 the information had been supplied, 4

See C h a p t e r

* Bulletin No. the

Hosiery

and

III. 504, U .

S. B u r e a u o f

Underwear

Industries,

S t a t i s t i c s , Wages

Labor 190J

to

igiS.

and

Hours

in

THE

NATURE

OF

THE

INDUSTRY

15

as regards knitters' earnings, only for the years indicated in T a b l e i . M o r e o v e r , previous to 1 9 2 6 , no differentiation was made between the hours and earnings of leggers and footers, both of these occupations being grouped as knitters as in T a b l e 1 . H o w e v e r , it has been possible to consider each knitting occupation separately in Table 2, which includes data for 1 9 2 6 , 1 9 2 8 , and 1930. 0 It should be noted that the method used in securing average earnings per hour in Table 1 inv o l v e d the division of a figure representing the total pay of all workers in a given occupation for a certain time, by the total number of hours worked during the period under consideration. T h i s hourly rate was then multiplied by the f u l l time hours scheduled by the plant in order to secure what is termed the average full-time weekly earnings. It is obvious that these full-time earnings may not represent actual earnings, since undertime or overtime plant operation may have occurred throughout the year. Table 1 , however, gives a good indication of the trends in hours and hourly rates of knitters f r o m 1 9 1 3 to 1 9 2 4 . F r o m 1 9 1 3 to 1 9 2 4 the full-time earnings per hour increased over 1 8 0 per cent, while during the same period average full-time earnings per week increased somewhat more slowly, as a result of the reduction in weekly hours of work scheduled for full-time plant operation. It should be borne in mind that the above data, considered alone, do not represent conclusive evidence concerning the change that occurred in the economic status of this group of workers f r o m 1 9 1 3 to 1 9 2 4 . Actual weekly earnings and actual annual income may not have changed proportionately with average hourly earnings if the opportunity for employment varied from time to time during the period considered. F o r instance, if the increase in the production of hosiery was accompanied by greater seasonality of plant operation, actual * Data f o r average full-time hours per week, average earnings per hour, and average full-time earnings per week for 1930 in the hosiery industry have been secured from an article, "Wages and Hours of Labor in the Hosiery and Underwear Industries, 1928 and 1930." This appeared in the January 1 9 3 1 issue of the Monthly Labor Review published by the U. S. Bureau of Labor Statistics.

16

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

earnings may have changed disproportionately to the increase in hourly earned rates that is noted in Table i. Furthermore, a complete appraisal of the significance of the increase in hourly earnings necessitates some reference to the price level changes that coincided with the changes in hourly earnings. Before considering any changes that took place in real wages of knitters, it may be well to present the data that are available on hourly earnings of leggers, footers, and helpers for 1926, 1928, and 1930, as well as average hourly earned rates for certain years from 1 9 1 3 to 1 9 3 0 for toppers and seamers in the full-fashioned hosiery industry. 7 T A B L E

2

H O U R S AND E A R N I N G S OF K N I T T E R S AND H E L P E R S IN T H E F U L L - F A S H I O N E D H O S I E R Y I N D U S T R Y 3 1926, 1928, A N D 1930

Full-Time Average Hours per Week

Average Earnings per Hour

1926

1938

>93°

JI.I

5°-7 JO. 1 JI.I

JO . 6

$1,286

5°-7 JI.8

I.JII

Leggers. . Footers. .

JI.O

Helpers. .

Ji-7

1926

•355

1928

>I-329 I-J46 •346

1930

$1,212 1-45" •340

Average Full T i m e Earnings per Week 1926

>65-7"

77.06 18-35

1928

>67.38 77-45

17.68

1930

>61

33

73-57

17.61

The data summarized in Table 2 reveal no significant trend in scheduled hours for the years considered in Table 2 as compared with the hours scheduled in 1924, unless the slight increase in scheduled hours in 1926 is considered to be important. In 1926 and in 1928, however, the average hourly earnings continued their previous increase, the separation of data for leggers and footers indicating that the hourly earnings of footers were on a definitely higher level than those of leggers. In spite of slight increases in the hourly earnings of knitters (leggers and footers combined) in 1928 over 1926, 7 T h i s material, like that presented in T a b l e i , has been prepared f r o m Bulletin N o . 504 of the U. S. Bureau of L a b o r Statistics. 8 In 1 9 2 6 , 1 8 9 7 leggers in 28 shops, 696 footers in 27 shops, and 973 helpers in 1 6 shops were considered. T h e 1 9 2 8 data were based upon returns f r o m 1 9 1 1 leggers and 749 footers in 39 shops, and 1 2 3 1 helpers in 33 shops. T h e 1 9 3 0 data were based upon returns f r o m 2 7 9 5 leggers and 1 0 7 5 footers in i l shops, and 1 6 9 2 helpers in 46 shops.

THE

NATURE

OF THE

INDUSTRY

17

the returns in hourly earnings to helpers declined during this period. It is obvious from Table 2 that the hourly earnings of knitters continued to increase in 1926 and in 1928. The average earnings per hour of knitters in 1924 were almost $ 1 . 1 0 . In 1926, the leggers, who, as a class, receive a lower hourly rate than the footers, attained an hourly earned rate of over $ 1 . 2 8 and in 1929 a rate of nearly $ 1 . 3 3 . The footers received an hourly earned rate of more than $ 1 . 5 0 in both years. Apparently the wages per hour of work earned by knitters continued to increase from 1 9 2 4 to 1928. T h e data for 1 9 3 0 that appear in Table 2 show that the average hourly earned rates declined for each of the three occupations. The decrease carried the earned rate to a level below 1926 rates. Since no marked change occurred in 1 9 3 0 in scheduled hours of plant operation, the rate decrease is reflected in decreases in average full-time weekly earnings. In 1930, the weekly full-time earnings were, for knitters and helpers, somewhat below the 1926 level. In short, the period of maximum average earnings and of maximum full-time weekly earnings was in 1928 and 1929, since the computations of 1929 hourly earned rates from our original data show no decrease below 1928. Maximum knitter earnings occurred in 1928 and 1 9 2 9 ; they apparently decreased sharply in 1930. In addition to the information just considered for knitters, similar data have been supplied for toppers and seamers in the full-fashioned branch of the hosiery industry. T h e hours and earnings of loopers and of other workers have not been prepared separately for full-fashioned and seamless establishments. They will not, therefore, be considered in this particular study, which has been confined to the fashioned branch of the hosiery industry. However, the hourly earned rates and the full-time weekly earnings for toppers and seamers should be here summarized so that we may understand something of the changing status of the auxiliary help. In view of the method by which these earnings are computed, it is interesting to note the extent of the increase in

18

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

TABLE

WORKER

3

H O U R S AND E A R N I N G S OF T O P P E R S IN THE F U L L - F A S H I O N E D H O S I E R Y 1 9 1 3 TO 1 9 3 0

Year

1913... 1914.. . 1922.. . 1924... 1926. . . 1928.. . 1930...

Full-Time Average Hours per Week

Average Earnings per Hour

Average Full-Time Earnings per Week

Hours

Relative

Earnings

Relative

Earnings

Relative

55 1

IOO.O 98.7

*O.I52 .152 .450

IOO.O IOO.O 296.1

$ 8.41

IOO.O 98.6 276.7

•472 .563 .56.

31° 5 37°-4 369 I 359.2

54-4 Ji-7 50.6

SO-3 49 9

So. 5

93-8 91.8 91 3 90.6 91.7

•546

8.29 23-27 23.88 28.32 27.99 27-57

2839 336.7 332-8 327-8

Number of Establishments Reporting

6 9 9 26 28 39 54

INDUSTRY

Number of Toppers Reported

448 528 477 1166 1372 1512 2071

average full-time weekly earnings of toppers that occurred from 1 9 1 4 to 1922.® This particular increase represented a more substantial percentage than the increase in average hourly earnings received by knitters over the same period. W h i l e the hourly earned rates of knitters were a little more than doubled, the same rates for toppers almost trebled. After 1922, however, the average earnings per hour of toppers showed less rapid increases} in 1928 they were even slightly less than they had been in 1926. T h e steady decrease in hours scheduled for toppers from 1913 to 1928 is also significant, since it represents an almost 10 per cent decline in full-time hours. In 1930, however, the full-time scheduled hours were increased approximately to those of 1924. T h e average hourly earned rates of toppers decreased in 1930 as compared with those of either 1926 or 1928. On account of the increase in scheduled hours in 1930, however, the average weekly full-time earnings of toppers showed a decline that was not as great as that experienced by the knitters. T h e 1930 data for toppers which are presented in Table 3 are for female toppers alone. In the report of the Bureau of Labor Statistics on 1930 hours and earnings, it is significant that eight plants reported the employment of 109 boy toppers who had average hourly earnings of $0,484 and average full* N o data on hours of work and average earnings f o r toppers or seamers in this industry are available f o r 1919.

THE

NA TU RE OF THE

INDUSTRY

19

time weekly earnings of $24.88. These, it will be observed, are somewhat lower than the earnings of the female toppers considered for 1930 in Table 3. In order to have in mind as much information relating to the trends of earnings as it is possible to secure, the data pertaining to hours and earnings of seamers will be summarized. Seaming is the only other full-fashioned hosiery occupation for which detailed information is available. TABLE

4

HOURS AND EARNINCS OF SEAMERS IN THE FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY INDUSTRY 1 9 1 3 TO 1 9 3 0 Full-Time Average Hours per Week Year

1913. . 1914. . . 1922... I924. . . 1926... 1928... I930. . .

Average Earnings per Hour

Hours

Relative

Earnings

Relative

55-1 54 - 4 50.7

IOO.O 98.7 92 .0

I0.170

100.0 IOI .8

5o 5 5°-5 49 8 50.2

91 -7 917 90.4 91.I

Average Full-Time Earnings per Week Earnings

•515 .504

232 -4 284.7 302.9 296.5

» 9-38 9.4I 20.03 24.44 26.01 25.10

•497

293 4

24 95

•173 •395 .484

Relative

IOO.O IOO.3 2 I

3 •5 260.6 277-3 267.6 266.0

Number of Establishments Reporting

Number of Seamers Reported

9 9 17 26 28 40

293 306 460

55

563 927 954 1555

Hours scheduled for seamers decreased from 1 9 1 3 to 1928 at about the same rate as those scheduled for toppers. In both 1 9 1 3 and 1 9 1 4 , average hourly earnings for seamers were somewhat higher than for toppers, while, after falling behind the toppers' in 1922, the seamers' hourly rates again forged ahead of the topping rates in 1924. Since then, the toppers have had a greater average hourly earning, and naturally, a greater full-time weekly earning. The year of 1 9 3 0 was significant to seamers in the full-fashioned hosiery industry for the increase in scheduled hours as compared with 1928, as well as for comparatively slight decreases in average hourly earnings and in average full-time weekly earnings. Chart I traces the trends, just considered, in average hourly earned rates for knitters, toppers, and seamers in the full-fashioned hosiery industry. The curves represent the

20

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

average hourly earned rates for each of the three occupations for those years for which data were securable. The information on Chart I is deficient in that we have no data for topper and seamer rates from 1 9 1 4 to 1 9 2 2 . Moreover, we can but inadequately show the change in earnings of knitters up to 1924, and separately for each of the knitting occupations only for years subsequent to 1924. Our purpose in charting the trend in hourly earned rates is to emphasize that from 1 9 1 3 to 1926 the tendency was for these rates to increase. With some slight exceptions, CLMT»

Its

-K.NITTt.tt» ( L i w u t & rooTimt) • LT^TTTS

uo

140

120 100

120

100

so

SO

60

¿0 20 0 CHART

to UJV" 40 20

BJO

S

I.

HOURLY

EARNED

RATF.S

IN" T H E

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

INDUSTRY

hourly earned rates reached a plateau with 1926 or with 1928. When deflation of the hosiery industry began in 1929, the effect was somewhat later transmitted to the rates, which were reduced during 1930, definitely and abruptly for knitters. Since 1929 was the year in which peak earnings probably occurred, we are fortunate in having collected for this study a large number of actual yearly earnings of fullfashioned hosiery workers in 1929. They should have some historical importance in their representation of the high point of earnings. They may also provide the basis for a later study of the method and manner by which deflation of wages paralleled industrial deflation.

THE

NATURE

OF THE

INDUSTRY

21

T h e data here presented constitute virtually the only information available on hours and earnings in the f u l l fashioned hosiery industry. 1 0 It is the objective of this study to a m p l i f y the data already available by presenting information concerning actual weekly and annual incomes, as distinct f r o m hourly earned rates, and from the weekly earnings possible through full-time plant operation. T h e studies of the Bureau of Labor Statistics presumably include both union and non-union plants in practically every section of the country where the industry is located, while our study is limited to union plants that are, however, geographically scattered. It has been noted that average hourly earnings and average full-time weekly earnings in a number of the important occupations of the full-fashioned hosiery industry have increased as the production of hosiery has expanded, although the relation of these changes to trends in living costs has not yet been considered. A n accurate comparison of changes in average earnings per hour, which are actually hourly rates of wages, with fluctuations in the cost of living necessitates an involved procedure. T h e rates earned in the full-fashioned hosiery industry should be compared with the cost of living in those localities in which the industry is centralized, and the living costs should be weighted for those districts where the greater localization prevails. T h e difficulty of proceeding in this manner becomes quite pronounced when the localization of an industry is undergoing changes. T h e full-fashioned hosiery industry has changed the geographical direction of its expansion a number of times in its brief history. As a measure of the adequacy of the rate changes in the hosiery industry in meeting changed living costs, a general comparison is, however, possible through relating the hourly earned rates alreadynoted with the cost-of-living indexes computed by the D e partment of Labor Statistics for the United States as a 10 A study was released early in 1 9 3 1 by the Bureau of Women and Children o f the Pennsylvania Department of Labor and Industry. It considers hours and earnings of a typical week in 1 9 2 8 , as well as actual yearly earnings in 1 9 2 7 . T h e data in this study are confined to Pennsylvania establishments.

22

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

whole. 1 1 A division of the index of rates by the cost of living index provides an index of the trend in real wages, which may be considered only as an approximation of the changing economic position of the wage-earner affected. This matter is considered in Table 5. TABLE 5 R E L A T I V E R E A L H O U R L Y E A R N I N G S IN T H R E E O C C U P A T I O N S IN T H E F U L L - F A S H I O N E D H O S I E R Y I N D U S T R Y 1913 T O 1930

Knitting Year

I9I3-1914.. 1919 1922.. 1924.. 1926.. 1928.. 193°.•

Index of C o s t of Living

Index of R a t e s of Wages per Hour

IOO.O

IOO.O

103.0 1773 166.4 169 .1 174.8 170.0 166.6

104.4 164. I 220.8 281.8

Index of Real Wages*

IOO.O I O I .4

92.6 132.7 166.6

Topping

Seaming

Index of R a t e s of Wages per Hour

Index of Real Wages

IOO.O

IOO.O

IOO.O

97 I

296. I 310.5 3704 369 I 359 2

177 9 1836 21 I .9 217. I 215.6

Index of Rates of Wages per Hour

Index of Real Wages

IOO.O IOI . 8

100.0 98.8

232.4 284.7 302.9 296.5 293-4

139 7 168.4 1733 174.4 176.1

* " R e a l w a g e s " expresses the relative purchasing power of wages, a s measured in living cost.

Table 5 shows rather convincingly that hourly earnings in the occupations considered increased at such a rate that the economic status of the wage-earners in those occupations was bettered, particularly after 1919. T h i s is true if we assume that changes in hourly earned rates measure the changes in actual earnings. It is evident that the " r e a l " value of hourly earned rates decreased somewhat for toppers and seamers in 1914, compared with the preceding year. Moreover, the position of real earnings of knitters in 1 9 1 9 reveals that the increases in average hourly earnings failed to keep pace with the cost of living increases from 1 9 1 4 to 1919. W i t h 1922, however, the purchasing value of the hourly earned rates of toppers and seamers had registered a decided increase over 11 T h i s index is presented in the Monthly Labor Review, published by the U. S. Department of Labor, August 1930, p. 516. In securing an index f o r each year, the June index of the cost of living was used, except f o r 1914, in which year it was necessary to use the December index.

THE

NATURE

OF THE

INDUSTRY

23

1 9 1 3 , and increased steadily in the six years subsequent to 1 9 2 2 . T h e toppers received hourly earned rates in 1 9 2 8 that had a purchasing power of more than double that of the 1 9 1 3 rates, and seamers' rates had increased at a rate only slightly smaller. A f t e r 1 9 1 9 , the real value of knitters' hourly earnings increased somewhat proportionately to the changes in the hourly rates of seamers. A n d , while it is well-nigh impossible to compute the real value of the hourly earnings of knitters in 1 9 2 6 and 1 9 2 8 , 1 2 it is quite evident that these earnings did increase, inasmuch as the leggers' rates of 1 9 2 6 and 1 9 2 8 are considerably higher than the hourly rate of knitters in 1 9 2 4 , which combined relatively higher footers' rates with leggers' rates. T h e index of real hourly rates of toppers declined slightly from 1 9 2 8 to 1 9 3 0 , but in spite of a small decrease in the hourly earned rates of seamers, their real hourly rates actually increased in 1 9 3 0 as compared with 1928. T h i s increase was due, of course, to the fact that costs of living decreased at a greater rate than the hourly earned rates. T h e data just considered must be used very cautiously. H o u r l y earned rates represent a " p r i c e " for labor which has been compared with commodity prices. Workers, however, are interested not only in rates of earnings, but in total earnings as well. Nothing yet considered has given information relative to the actual incomes that were received under any of the rates discussed. M o r e o v e r , it must be borne in mind that while the purchasing value of the hourly earnings of knitters, toppers, and seamers increased from 1 9 2 2 to 1 9 2 8 , these increases can be f u l l y evaluated only by a comparison with the changes in hourly earnings that occurred in other industrial groups. 1 3 F r o m the available indexes of changes in hourly earnings of manufacturing industries, it appears that in recent years before 1 9 3 0 the hourly rates in the f u l l 11

Bccause of the separation of data into leggers' and footers' rates f o r those years. " F o r information f o r such a comparison, see P a u l H. Douglas, Real Wages

in the United States, 1890-1926.

24

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

fashioned hosiery industry have increased at a more rapid rate than in manufacturing industries in general. Table 6 gives the comparison of these relative changes. TABLE

6

Relative Changes in Hourly Eakninos 1 9 1 3 to 1 9 3 0 Index or Hocily Rates Year

1913 1914 1919

1922

19^4 1926 1928 I930

Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry Knitting

Topping

Seaming

IOO.O

IOO.O IOO.O

IOO.O IOI.8

296.1

232.4 284.7 302.9 296.5

IO4.4 164.1 220.8 281.8

3I o o r- it O ^n O«c< oo N

«

n o vr»00

fl o

8 ¿1

II 2 O z 3

j t ^ r 1 ) « » V) oo

«o 111 s

O"

c* « rt o o o^o n ot rw-»\o oosoos6O ^•oo «-noo oo \0 N O^O ON (H o «^OO »A r->o « c-> ci r-» ci «

ffi t o

* o o ci

r-

, ». E

¿JSI O 00 ^O sO 00 00 OO « ts oo ^ r-» o « wi o c* E°.S

|ji| £ a E

r- o

t

rt n n

o

151 O

m

h n o c->

ci ci so oo r- r- ^ n n ^ -

^ • 3 8» o ** V irt JJh

O ^O ^ o o ci ciI nco n< t w->so

••v

i| ¡¡S

3 3 3 3 3 3

u T3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 u C -O rt e«, 0 * ^ 0 ^ 0 * ^ 0 0 D ~ ci ^ ro n t i" w-isô

£

5S » -a •Ï

136

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

shops as of December 3 1 , 1929. These data emphasize the youthfulness of the majority of the employees; this might well be expected of an industry that has so recently attained maturity. Table 22 indicates in no uncertain terms the comparative youth of the employees in the establishments considered in this study. O n l y about 9 per cent of their employees were forty years of age or more, while nearly 70 per cent were less than thirty years of age. Moreover, over 58 per cent of the group of 3473 employees were between twenty and thirty years of age, while 11.5 per cent were younger than twenty years. In considering particular occupations, it is interesting to note that the footers, who have average yearly incomes in excess of those of the leggers, are a somewhat older group. W h i l e nearly 60 per cent of the leggers are less than thirty years old, only about 33 per cent of the footers are below this age. Moreover, those leggers thirty-five years and older are 22.5 per cent of the total, as contrasted with 40 per cent of the footers who are thirty-five years of age or more. It is a generally accepted fact in the industry that the footing task involves a higher degree of skill than the legging. T h e result is that the older, more experienced knitters are presumably assigned to the footing machines. A general idea of the variations in ages between occupational groups can best be secured by a study of the modal 1 groups in T a b l e 22. In legging, the mode fell in practically two intervals, from twenty-five to thirty and from twenty to twenty-five years of age. T h e modal group in footing was more definitely centered at the ages from thirty to thirtyfive, while in topping, looping, seaming, and female boarding, the modes were definite concentrations. In each of these cases, the modal group was included in the interval from twenty to twenty-five years of age. In topping, looping, and seaming, Table 22 shows that 1 T h e mode as an average presents that group in which most of the items f a l l . It represents, therefore, the most numerous group.

AGE,

TENURE,

AND

TYPE

OF MACHINE

137

most of the employees were less than thirty years of age. O f the toppers, over 90 per cent were under this age, while more than 81 per cent of the loopers and over 77 per cent of the seamers were in the same age classification, namely, below thirty. A notable difference in ages prevailed between female and male boarders. A relatively large number of the male boarders were in the upper age classes, as is evident from the fact that 12.7 per cent of these employees were fifty years of age or more and that more than 30 per cent were forty years of age or over. In contrast with this situation, only .7 per cent of the female boarders were fifty or older, and only 4.0 per cent were forty years of age or more. T h e female boarders were the youngest group of workers, 86.7 per cent of the total being under thirty years of age, and 32.3 per cent under twenty years of age. W h i l e these variations in the ages of boarders may account for some of the differences between the average earnings of full-time male and female boarders, a complete understanding should be predicated upon an analysis of earnings as they relate to productivity. In some plants, girl apprentices for other tasks are first placed in the boarding department. This practice results in the concentration of the younger girls at boarding, and, since they arc inexperienced, may have resulted in the average wage that was, as has been noted, below that of the male boarders. In the following discussion, which correlates full-time annual earnings with age, it has been necessary to eliminate certain of the individuals included in Table 22. This was necessary because some of those employees for whom we have age information did not work " f u l l - t i m e " according to our definition. T h e r e was no marked difference, however, between the ages of all employees considered in Table 22 and the ages of the employees in each occupation who were classified as " f u l l - t i m e " workers. 2 From Table 23 it appears that a definite relation exists ' F o r table s h o w i n g the a g e distribution o f the six occupations, see A p p e n d i x C .

f u l l - t i m e w o r k e r s in each

of

138

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

TABLE

WORKER

23

AVERAOE ANNUAL EARNINGS o r FULL-TIME W O R K E R S — 1 9 2 9 CLASSIFIED BY OCCUPATION AND AGE Boarding Age by Years

Leggine

Footing

Topping

Looping

Seaming Male

Under 18 18 and under 20 20

"

"

25

" 3o " 35 " 4® 45 «

" " " " "

30 35 4° 45 50

50

«

60

"

60 " over

>2404 2900

330I 3445 3454 3657 349' 3058 2649

>3375 3729 3993 4172 4141

3906 3805

% 9*6

$ 723

* 8 33

1206

10J9 1203

1047 1265 1296 1422

>3i9 1409

1517 1553 1566

1239 1743 '535 1526 1200

'3>9 1449 1422

Female

> 709 $1164 I4IO

1510 '493 '998 '77' 1888 1896

858 1099 1186 1196 1216

I340 "75 1310

'745

between the age of the employee and his full-time annual earning. It is logical to infer that this relationship is indirect evidence of a dependence of earnings upon skill that changes with age. T h e other factor is that, in certain shops, the more experienced worker is given the jobs that are generally considered as good paying assignments. This practice, however, is dependent, in no small measure, upon the belief that the older employee is more skilled. In any event, in each occupation considered, the lowest average full-time yearly incomes were received by those in the lowest age group. In legging, as the age increases, it appears that wages also increase until the forty-five year age is passed, when decreases occur to such an extent that the legger of sixty years and over has a yearly income that is only slightly greater than that of the legger of from eighteen to twenty years of age. In brief, some of the wide variation of earnings from the average is accounted for by the incomes received by the youngest and oldest employees. T h e same tendency for annual wages to increase with age is true of footers, except that their age class of maximum earnings is the thirty-five to forty year group. Toppers' incomes increase with some rapidity with age up to the thirtyfive to forty year group. Incomes of toppers in the next age

AGE,

TENURE,

AND

TYPE

OF MACHINE

139

group continue to increase, although at a slower rate. In legging and footing, particularly, and also in looping, the increase in earnings with age seems to be steady up to a certain point beyond which decreases in earnings are then typical. T h e relation of age to average annual earnings can be investigated through Table 23, but can be seen more completely by an analysis of Chart X V I . This chart is composed AHNUAL tA.M.M,. TW CTLLKU

. U...MM* I I I I M S U M I N « — E>OARO«W

L W N * -FOOT.M* —

—

4000

ANNUM. t A ( l M

AI.«-)

«00

"

J500

5500 3000

5000

2500

2500 *

2000

2000 • -

1500

1500 ~ "1 1000

1000

£00

500 0

0

C H A R T

UNDLK tfi Y E A * »

2 0 ANO 18 AMD UNDIR UMDI.« 20 Y T A M 2 5 Y * A « »

X V I .

AVERAGE

2 5 AMD UNP» »0 YIA«»

SO AMD UNDC-S »5 YIAB»

A N N U A L

CLASSIFIED

BY

2.5 AM» 4 0 AMD 4 5 AMD CO AN» SDAKO UNPU Unow UNDtR UNOlt D v u 4 0 Y * A M 4 5 Y«.A«.» 50 Y T A « A a YUL«.

EARNINGS

OF

OCCUPATION

F U L I ^ T I M E AND

W O R K E R S — 1 9 2 9

A C E

of one curve for each occupation which is based upon the average annual earning of each age group. Chart X V I indicates clearly the definite relation of age to annual earnings for full-time leggers and footers. In each occupation, average annual incomes increase with age until an age of maximum earning is attained. Beyond that point, decreases are steadily experienced. Note from the chart that the age of maximum earnings for loopers was from thirty to thirty-five years, beyond which average earnings decreased. In topping, however, annual earnings increased with age up to the forty to forty-five year group, the oldest reported for toppers. N o decrease was apparent in topping with any

140

THE FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

ages reported. T h e loopers h a d a c u r v e on C h a r t X V I somew h a t similar to those of the knitters. W i t h the remaining occupations, the relation of a g e to a v e r a g e annual income is not so c l e a r l y defined. I n the consideration of w a g e data, it is easy to s i m p l i f y by s u m m a r i z i n g to such an extent that important variations are obscured. A n understanding of w a g e p h e n o m e n a necessitates d e a l i n g with simple e l e m e n t s rather than w i t h compound factors. Instead of discussing the c o m p o u n d " e a r n i n g s of f u l l - f a s h i o n e d hosiery w o r k e r s , " it seems desirable to consider earnings of e m p l o y e e s of one occupation of particular ages, operating particular t y p e s of machines, of a certain tenure, as w e l l as numerous other factors. In this connection, it m a y be of some interest to distribute the f u l l - t i m e annual earnings of knitters 3 classified by age, in order to note w h e t h e r the r a n g e of earnings decreases w h e n earnings are g r o u p e d according to the ages of e m ployees. T a b l e 24 g i v e s this i n f o r m a t i o n f o r l e g g e r s . T A B L E PERCENTAGE*

o r

FULL-TIME

LECGERS

CLASSIFIED

24

EARNING

BY

ACE

SPECIFIED

INCOMES

IN

50

60 and over

1929

GROUPS

Age b y Years Annual Earnings

Under $2000 ¿2500 $3000 $3500 $4000 $4500 •5000

$2000 and under $2500... " " 3000. • * 3500. . " " 4000. . " " 4500... " * 5000... " over

18 and under 20

6o.o 40.0

3 9 15 0

42 9 27.2 10. 2 •4 •4

100.0 Number of Leggers Median Earning

20 and under 25

S $2499

25 and under 30

6.0 24 9 36.8 21 4

and under 35

1.1 3 2 13 9 35 3 33 7

7 0

9.6

1.1

2-7 •5

2.8

35

and under 40

4-3

anJ under

45

50

an J under 60

33.0

9 7 45 2

3.0 4 0

170 37.0

"

3

30.6

34 0 13.0 3 0

33 3 14 5 1 1 -3

100.0

100.0

1.0

30.0

29.0

4 0

9 7 3 2 3 3

38.0 16.0

8-3 33 3 33 4

16.7 83

TOTAL

1 6 7.8

26 8 31

4

22.4 6 8

27 5

100.0

100.0

100.0

254

28s »3262

187

xoo

63

$3455

»3507

»3638

$2865

45

an J under

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

12 961 31 »2964 $2688 $3220 _

»3499

* See Appendix C for absolute figures.

T a b l e 2 4 considers a l l l e g g e r s of each age g r o u p as 100 per cent, and shows the percentage of each g r o u p with earn* See Appendix C f o r distribution o f earnings in the other occupations.

AGE,

TENURE,

AND

TYPE

OF MACHINE

141

ings, in 1929, within the indicated wage limits. It is clear that this classification changes the l e v e l of the range of earnings existing within each age group as compared with the general distribution of earnings noted in T a b l e 15, although there is still a considerable variation of incomes within each age g r o u p . W h i l e 95.3 per cent of the leggers with ages from twenty to twenty-five earned from $2000 to $4000, 90.1 per cent of leggers with ages f r o m twentyfive to thirty earned from $250x3 to $4500. In the ages from thirty to forty, h o w e v e r , incomes still ranged f r o m below $2000 to over $5000. In short, while a correlation of f u l l time annual earnings with age reveals different mean and median earnings for each age group, the deviations of earnings from the median are not substantially different f r o m those for ail f u l l - t i m e leggers. It is true that the computation of relative deviations from the median for each wage group shows a slightly smaller deviation in most age groups as compared with the deviation from the median earning of all leggers' incomes. It is, however, so slight as to be considered inconsequential. W e must conclude that other factors than age operate to cause variations of income, although age appears to have a definite effect upon the general level of the yearly income. In order to show the same conditions existing in the footing departments, T a b l e 25 has been prepared. A g a i n the age classification shows that the general level of earnings varies definitely with age groups. W i t h i n each age group, h o w e v e r , the relative deviations are as great as for the entire footer group. T h i s is true except for the age groups f r o m thirty-five to forty and from forty to forty-five years, where the variation of individual earnings f r o m the median is not so marked. But, as with l e g g i n g , it is evident that influences other than age tend to cause variations of individual earnings f r o m the median of each age group. A l though the median earning for footers from twenty-five to thirty years of age was $3759 in 1929, almost 33 per cent of the footers in this age group earned less than $3500. A n d ,

142

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

TABLE

WORKER

IJ

P E R C E N T A C E * o r F U L L - T I M E F O O T E R S E A R H I N O S P E C I F I E D INCOMES IN C L A S S I F I E D BV A O E G R O U P S

1929

Age by Years Annual Earnings

Under $2000 $2000 and under $2500 " " >3000 " " >3500 " " $4000 " " I4J00 " " jijooo " over

20 and under IS

35 and under 30

7-7

$2500. 3000. 1 1 . J 3500. 4 6 . 2 4000. 1 5 4 4500. 1 1 . 5 5000. 7-7

1 4 5 5

26.0 3 7 °

17-8 IIO I

3

30 and under 35

35 and under 40

40 and under 45

33 7 13 5

2.2

4

6.4

32 8

32-3 32 3

3

43 1

19.0

29.0

«•7

4.8 47

6

28.6

9 5 4-7

100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 Number of Footers Median Earning

26 >3354

73 $3759

89 #3999

50 and under 60

4.8

4 5 I. I

90 36.0

45 and under 50

58 3' $4170 >4200

21 $395°

38.9

27.8 16.7 16.6

IOO.O

18 *375°

TOTAL

2.2 .6 2.2 16.1 33

9

28.5 14.9 1.6

100.0 316 #3928

* See Appendix C for absolute figures.

while the footers of from fifty to sixty years of age had a median earning of $ 3 7 5 0 , 38.9 per cent of the group earned below $3500. Age accounts for different levels of earning but certainly not for most of the existing variation in individual earnings. In considering the conditions that were responsible for certain of the existing variations in annual full-time yearly earnings, it was deemed desirable to consider the fluctuations in wages in comparison with the number of years a worker was employed at a given plant. Data regarding tenure were available from most of the payrolls studied. The majority of those employees considered as full-time workers had been on one payroll for a period exceeding three years. Of 1083 leggers for whom data of tenure were secured as of December 3 1 , 1929, 732 had been on one payroll for three years or more, while of 362 footers there were 263 reported as being with one plant for more than three years. From the tenure and wage data available, one cannot conclude that full-time annual earnings tend to change with length of service with one plant as between the tenure groups here considered. In

AGE,

TENURE,

AND

TYPE

OF

MACHINE

143

order to understand the basis of this conclusion, Tables 26 and 27 have been inserted to show earnings and tenure of full-time leggers and footers. TABLE

26

P E R C E N T A G E * OF F U L U T I M E L E G G E R S E A R N I N G SPECIFIED INCOMES IN 1 9 2 9 C L A S S I F I E D BY T E N U R E Length of Time OD One Payroll Annual Earnings

Under $2000 $2000 and under >2500 %3000 >3500 $4000 $4500 $5000

" " " " " "

" " " " " "

$2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 5500

Number of Leggers Median Earning

One year and under two years

Two years and under three years

Three years and over

2.2 I2.9

3° 61

1 9 7.2

26.3 29.6

TOTAI

2.1 8.0 2J .2 30.I 23 8

24.8

25.0

327 24.9 .6

29.6 24 s 78 3 •7 3

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

186

165 >3250

732 $3*68

>324 4

20.4

7-0 1.6

#3'jo

6.1

1.8

7-4 2.8 .6

1083

* See Appendix C for absolute figures.

W h i l e some changes in the distribution of leggers' earnings occur between the three tenure groups, they do not appear to be of great significance. T h e largest variation between the three groups occurs in the percentage earning from $2000 to $2500, in which class there were 12.9 per cent of the one- to two-year group, 6.1 per cent of the two- to threeyear group, and 7.2 per cent of the leggers on one payroll for three years or longer. Exclusive of this wage class, the percentage of each tenure group earning specified incomes does not vary greatly. This uniformity is due, in no small measure, to the preponderance of the number of full-time knitters who had been, in 1929, on the payroll of a single firm for three years or more. W h i l e tenure seems to have little effect upon the earnings of full-time leggers, this lack of influence is not so pronounced in the footing occupation.

1+4

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

TABLE

WORKER

27

P E R C E N T A G E * OF F U L L - T I M E F O O T E R S E A R N I N G S P E C I F I E D INCOMES IN C L A S S I F I E D BV T E N U R E

1929

Length of Time on One Payroll Annua] Earnings

Under $2000 $2000 and under $2500 $2500 " " 3000 >3000 " " 3500 $3500 " " 4000 $4000 " " 4500 $4500 " " 5000 >5000 u " 5500 $5500 " over

N u m b e r of Footers Median Earning

One year and under two years

Two years and under three years

I S 3 0 4.6

3 °

9 1 3 1 -8 19-7 22.7

21 .2

Three years and over

.8 2 3

TOTAL

1.1 .6 2-5 1 6 3

39-4 21 .2 9 I 3 ° 3 1

17-5 32-7 28.9 >4 4 1 9 i-5

33 1 26.5 1 5 5 1 9 2-5

100.0

IOO.O

100.0

100.0

66 $4019

33 >3846

263

362

$3953

$3948

6.1

* See Appendix C for absolute figures.

Of the 3 6 2 footers for whom data were included in Table 27, 263 or over 72 per cent had been on one payroll for a period of three years or longer. Only slightly more than 18 per cent were on one payroll from one to two years, while about 9 per cent were in the two- to three-year group. T h e extent to which footers are concentrated in the "three years and o v e r " group makes it difficult to come to definite conclusions relating to the effect of tenure on earnings in this occupation. T h e data available offer conflicting evidence. A large percentage of the one-year to two-year group earned from $ 4 5 0 0 to $ 5 0 0 0 in 1 9 2 9 , while a larger percentage than in either of the other two tenure groups earned less than $ 3 0 0 0 . T h e median earning was highest for the shorttenure employees. Undoubtedly, this fact is due to the two types of footers included in the short-tenure group. Some experienced footers may have changed their shop affiliation without a decrease in previous earnings, while others may have been recently placed upon the footing machine after operating legging machines.

AGE,

TENURE,

AND

TYPE

OF MACHINE

145

In Appendix C we have tabulated the earnings of fulltime workers in each of the other four occupations that are being considered. T h e tenure analysis in these cases also emphasizes the fact that a majority of the full-time workers in each occupation have been on the payroll of a single company for three years or longer. It appears, however, that any correlation of earnings with tenure should differentiate between those individuals who have been working at a task for a short period of time from those who are experienced at the job but who have been recently added to a certain plant payroll. So far our attempt to account for the wide distribution of earnings of full-time workers in the union plants of the fullfashioned hosiery industry has shown that age differences explain, in some respects, the existence of certain of the variations. The conclusions relating to the effect of tenure on earnings were inconclusive, since most of the full-time workers had been employed at one plant for more than three years and because conflicting forces affect the earnings of shorttenure employees. In considering the earnings of the knitters, it must be realized that the type of machine operated may have a considerable bearing upon earnings. Differences in earnings may be caused by the relative efficiency of the machines at which knitters work. Moreover, if the wage scale is improperly balanced as between types of work, it may be possible for one knitter to exceed the earnings of another without using any extra effort. A detailed study must be made of the relation to earnings of the type of machine and the nature of the stocking being produced, if a properly balanced wage scale is to be achieved. Of course, this should be correlated with an investigation of the skill required in the knitting of particular styles of hosiery. The data on this subject that we have been able to secure should be considered as a mere beginning. In using payroll data as the basis of this study, we have had to consider separately the earnings of full-time knitters who operated one particular type of machine

146

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

throughout the year in which they received pay for 48 weeks. W e have been unable to appraise the nature of the income received from different styles of stocking knit on an identical machine. Moreover, when a knitter was changed from one type of machine to another, his record could not be considered in the correlation of earnings with machine. This elimination reduced the number of knitters whose earnings could be included in this discussion. It has been possible to compare the earnings of full-time workers on 39- and 42gauge machines of the 18- and 20-section types. T h e inability to utilize, in this connection, data on 45- and finer-gauge machines was due to the aforementioned difficulties, as well as to the fact that the union shops have not secured a large percentage of the recently installed finer-gauge equipment. For instance, we find very few 48-gauge machines in union shops, although the production of this gauge was 11.1 per cent of the 1928, 5.2 per cent of the 1929, and 10.5 per cent of the 1930 installations of new equipment. It is interesting to note that while a few higher individual earnings were made on 39- than on 42-gauge legging machines, in general, the 42-gauge legger fared better than the 39-gauge operator. In footing, the 42-gauge knitter earned a definitely higher income than did the 39-gauge knitter. T h e data regarding these earnings have been placed in Tables 28 and 29. In these tables the earnings of a few knitters who operated machines other than the 18- and 20-section types were included in the "others" column since they are also included in the total for each gauge. Table 28 is based upon the earnings of 613 leggers. In 1929, 355 of these leggers operated 39-gauge machines, 263 of which were the 18-section type, while 67 were 20section machines. There are also included in the table 258 leggers who worked exclusively on 42-gauge machines} 137 operated 18-section machines, while 74 operated the 20section type. W e would emphasize the fact that leggers operating other types of machines are included in the other

AGE, TENURE,

AND TYPE T A B L E

PERCENTAGE* o r

FULL-TIME

CLASSIFIED

BY

OF MACHINE

28

L E C C E R S E A R N I N O S P E C I F I E D INCOMES IN

GAUOE

AND SECTION

OF

MACHINE

39-Gauge Annual Earnings

18Section

JO-

Section

3-0 18.3 39-9 22.1

1 5 8.9 44.8 29.9 IO.4

1929

OPERATED

41-Gauge

Others

Total

JO18Section Section

2-5 IJ.2 30.6

2-7 IO.8

45-3 16.1 2.9

24-3 52.7 9 5

Others

Total

2.1

3-9 20.1 368 318

4-3 31 9 44-7 17.0

O O O O

U n d e r $2000 $2000 a n d u n d e r $2500. jtejoo " « 3000. $3000 " " 35°°$3$00 " " 4000. $4000 " " 4500. $4500 " " 5000. JS5000 " « 5500.

147

39-7 24-5 6.2 5-4 4-8 i-7

100.0

100.0

IOO.O

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

Number of L e g g e r s . . . . 263 Median Earning >2862

67 *29JO

25 >3389

355 >2908

137 Ì3161

74 47 Ì 3 6 21 >3643

258 >3355

3 4 5 3 5-7 2-3

J-5 3 °

7-4

* See Appendix C for absolute figures.

parts of this study, although the data regarding earnings on them were not available for the present comparison. The median earning for leggers operating 39-gauge equipment throughout 1929 was $2908, as compared with $3355 a s a median legger-earning on 42-gauge machines. Furthermore, in both gauges of machine, the legger operating the 20-section equipment had median earnings that were higher than the median earnings on 18-section machines. It will be noted that the range of earnings on 39-gauge legging machines is wider than that which prevailed in earnings on 42-gauge machines. T h e highest and lowest earnings were made by leggers on the coarser-gauge machines in contrast to earnings on 42-gauge, 76 per cent of which were from $3000 to $4500. T o be sure, 39-gauge earnings show a concentration from $2500 to $3500, but scattered percentages make the range much wider than in the 42-gauge group. Apparently, some of the variation in full-time earnings of leggers is caused by the type of work made on the 39-gauge machines and the method of operating these machines. In other words, a greater dispersion from the average of 39-

148

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

gauge earnings may account for some of the range in leggers' earnings already noted, while the tendency for earnings to be greater on 20-section than on 18-section machines accounts for other differences. It may be that the older leggers operate those machines on which the earning opportunities are greatest, although it does not seem that they generally tend to do so. In following the reasoning that annual earnings depend, to some extent, upon the type of machine operated, we should also consider the income of footers, classified by gauge and section of machine. T h i s can be accomplished through a study of Table 29. TABLE

29

PERCENTAGE* OF F L L I . - T I M E FOOTERS EARNING SPECIFIED INCOMES IN 1 9 2 9 CLASSIFIED BY G A L G E AND SECTION OF MACHINE OPERATED 42-Gauge

39-Gauge Annua] Earnings 18Section

U n d e r $1000 $2000 and u n d e r $2500 >2500 " " 3000 ?3°°° " " 3500 553500 " " 4000 $4000 " " 4500 ¿4500 " " 5000 >5000 " o v e r

Number of Footers. . . . Median Earning

4.8 48 9 5 23.8 33 3 23.8

20Scction

I .2 3-6 20.2 44.0 19.1 11.9

Others

9 I 45 4 45 5

Total

30-

Section

Others

423 22.4 8.6

3 1 23 . I 41 5 2 3 -1 9.2

13.0 17.4 17-4 43-5 8-7

5-7 21 . 6 35-2 28.4 9 1

•9 1-7 4-3 19 8

Total

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100 0

100.0

100.0

21

84 I379I

11 $3999

116 ?378I

$4296

23 $455°

$4331

?3643

88

* See Appendix C for absolute figures.

T h e range in full-time footers' earnings is smaller than in leggers', as we have noted from our analysis of the deviation of footers' earnings from the median footer income. Some of the variation in earnings can be accounted for by the gauge of the machine on which the footer is placed. Table 29 shows that while 62.1 per cent of the 39-gauge footers earned from $ 3 0 0 0 to $4000, only 27.3 per cent of the 42-gauge footers earned within these specified amounts. Only 3 1 per

AGE,

TENURE,

AND

TYPE

OF MACHINE

149

cent of the 3 9 - g a u g e footers earned f r o m $ 4 0 0 0 to $ 5 0 0 0 , although 6 3 . 6 per cent of the footers on 4 2 - g a u g e machines earned within these w a g e limits. It is also evident that the range of earnings on 3 9 - g a u g e 18-section machines is at a lower income level than the range of earnings on 3 9 - g a u g e 20-section machines. A s was true of l e g g e r earnings, the median earning of footers who operated 3 9 - g a u g e machines throughout 1 9 2 9 was much lower than that of 4 2 - g a u g e footers. A n d considering the 3 9 - g a u g e footers separately, the median earning was greater on 20-section than on 18-section machines. U n d o u b t e d l y much of the variation in knitters' earnings already considered rests upon the nature of the machine operated. In the past it was customary to speak of the " k n i t goods industry"' as though it were composed entirely of similar units. T h e point of view soon developed that this industry was composed of units, each subject to different economic conditions. A s a result, it became customary to consider hosiery data separately f r o m those of other branches of the knit goods industry. In the search for workable economic data, it soon bccame necessary to study the f u l l - f a s h i o n e d hosiery industry separately f r o m other hosiery-producing establishments. T h e process of breaking down compound data into its elements is still being continued. F o r we find that even the f u l l fashioned hosiery industry must not be considered as a single unit. Certainly the manufacture of ingrain fashioned hosiery is subject to different influences f r o m the knitting of gum-silk hosiery. W e find that it is impossible to consider the wages of f u l l - f a s h i o n e d hosiery workers without understanding something of the type of earnings under different conditions. It has been noted that f u l l - f a s h i o n e d l e g g e r s ' f u l l - t i m e earnings in 1 9 2 9 varied considerably f r o m the average. T h i s fact w o u l d i m p l y that there was little " r h y m e or reason" about the earnings received. F r o m the material available directly f r o m payroll records, however, it has been possible to note that different ranges of earnings prevail between different age groups. F u r t h e r m o r e , we have seen that the earnings of

150

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

knitters on particular types of machines have individual characteristics that explain, to some extent, the ranges discussed in Chapter IV. While we have barely touched the surface in explaining the variations of earnings, it seems evident that an understanding of wage phenomena must be predicated upon careful analyses of incomes that must be earned under somewhat similar conditions. In the social sciences, it is necessary to deal with the elements in a given situation rather than with a compound consisting of many diverse factors.

C H A P T E R VI WEEKLY HOURS AND EARNINGS A previous chapter considered the question of actual money incomes received annually by workers in certain selected occupations in the full-fashioned hosiery industry. Since, in 1929, the proportion of full-time employees to the total number on the payroll was so substantial, the data on annual earnings of full-time workers are significant as representing most of the union section of the industry. An understanding of the earnings situation in 1929, however, requires the presentation of information relating to the weekly earnings of all employees, whether or not they were full-time workers for the year. Some difficulty was encountered in securing weekly earnings figures, particularly because many firms do not post weekly payrolls to individual employee cards. This fact necessitated considerable clerical work even in the computation of yearly earnings and limited the number of firms for which weekly data could be secured because of the size of the posting task involved. Actual weekly earnings during 1929 were secured, however, from eighteen mills for all employees in the six occupations that are being considered in this study. From these data, an average weekly earning for each month in 1929 was secured for all employees who drew pay during each month. In the computation, a week that had days in two months was assigned to that month in which most of its days occurred. For each worker, then, the actual monthly pay was computed and divided by four or five, representing the number of weeks that constituted that particular pay period. Any employee working less than every week in the month under consideration was eliminated from the computation because we could not follow individual earnings records from plant to plant. Therefore, an individual working less 151

152

THE

FULL-FASH

¡OK ED HOSIERY

WORKER

than each week may have received earnings from another plant, which earnings may have been different from those of which a record was secured. It should be mentioned, however, that this procedure resulted in the elimination of very few records. T o be sure, a better appreciation of the wages situation could have been secured had it been possible to determine the hours worked in the month in which average weekly earnings were known. With but f e w exceptions, the establishments cooperating in this study kept no continuous record of hours worked by the employees. Some firms insisted that such a record was unnecessary because practically all their employees worked upon a piece-work basis. In several instances the firm required the employees to punch clock cards, but failed to post the card records to employee accounts. F o r the six plants from which hours worked were available to us, we have computed, in another section of this chapter, the average weekly hours for each occupation by months in 1 9 2 9 . A complete consideration of the earnings problem in the full-fashioned hosiery industry will not have been made until it becomes possible to correlate earnings with hours worked, and also with the physical units of production that are turned out during the time worked and for the wages paid. This analysis cannot be generally made from payroll records alone. T h e field work for this present study was in progress early in 1 9 3 0 , when the industry was entering upon a general depression. W e found that, with idle equipment the rule, manufacturers were not particularly interested in increasing the output of hosiery per machine hour, although this had been of paramount importance in earlier years. T h e principle of modern mass production implies that a large output reduces the unit cost by decreasing the fixed charges applicable to each unit of production. T h i s appears to be effective, of course, only if the machines are operated at or near capacity. In the hosiery industry, machines have been idle while most employees were paid on a piece-rate basis. Because of piece-

WEEKLY

HOURS

AND

EARNINGS

153

rate p a y m e n t s , labor cost alone does not decrease if p r o d u c tivity per machine decreases. A n d t h e r e is no u r g e to increase p r o d u c t i v i t y per machine since u s u a l l y t h e r e are i d l e

ma-

chines to place in operation to m e e t p r o d u c t i o n needs.

In-

creased p r o d u c t i v i t y per machine w i l l not operate to r e d u c e costs if, at the same time, other i d l e m a c h i n e s increase o v e r head costs. In the f u l l - f a s h i o n e d hosiery i n d u s t r y , depression and increasing competition h a v e not o p e r a t e d t o w a r d t h e g o a l of more efficient machine operation, a l t h o u g h such m a t t e r s as saving

in waste

and

seconds

have

received

considerable

attention. W i t h i d l e e q u i p m e n t a c o m m o n condition in m a n y establishments, it is difficult to convince t h e m a n u f a c t u r e r of t h e necessity of k e e p i n g production records or data

regarding

hours w o r k e d . Jn times w h e n idle e q u i p m e n t is not quite so p r e v a l e n t , it w i l l be important to s t u d y d i f f e r e n c e s in e a r n ings in the l i g h t of the t y p e , a m o u n t , and q u a l i t y of g o o d s p r o d u c e d , m e a s u r e d by hours w o r k e d . T h e s e m a t t e r s w i l l then be i m p o r t a n t e n o u g h to be a d e q u a t e l y r e c o r d e d .

For

the time being, such data are not a v a i l a b l e . I t is possible, t h e r e f o r e , to present o n l y the a v e r a g e w e e k l y earnings w i t h out b e i n g able to explain t h e m in t e r m s of hours w o r k e d or in production achieved. T a b l e 30 presents f o r e i g h t e e n firms the n u m b e r of e m ployees u p o n the p a y r o l l of six d e p a r t m e n t s d u r i n g m o n t h of

1 9 2 9 , and the a v e r a g e w e e k l y

each

pay r e c e i v e d

by

t h e m in each of the months. It s h o u l d be noted that the n u m b e r of e m p l o y e e s on t h e payroll

f o r each w e e k in the m o n t h

throughout

1929, although

varied

December

considerably

stands

out

as

month in w h i c h the n u m b e r e m p l o y e d was g e n e r a l l y

the low,

especially of knitters a n d toppers. F o r those t h r e e occupations, O c t o b e r was the m o n t h of e m p l o y m e n t of t h e l a r g e s t n u m b e r of workers. T h e

fluctuations

in n u m b e r

employed

a p p a r e n t l y affected a s m a l l p e r c e n t a g e of e m p l o y e e s in 1 9 2 9 , but t h e y represent a p r o b l e m of industrial a d j u s t m e n t t h a t cannot l i g h t l y be dismissed.

THE

154

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER i oo ch i-i c-> f-» ci

III. Z t S g

i

£

o

2

»
-• 0\f< v » f ) f ) t*) c ) r*j co ci ci n n rt

3 EL,

X

r^so

0 3

£ ¿ J E § K,

st 2 U £ H 1 >• O X u

III

W « .

o «->

£ g

o

8 S

»

J

2

u. O J

n

g £

2

OO O n o o 1 ' oo o O n o OsO O ON ^ I t - 0 0 (1 t m\£) O

vo o o o co oo h

2

O

3

J" ft*

Z

vo oo h- n

3 fc< t> 6 9

^ ( 3

I

2

o

E o 3 J* z *

oo e~>\0 . „ so ^o so oo i i r^ i— _ rC1CiC*C«CiCic (was 13c) Each additional picot in welt ic extra Picot after welt Jc extra If no picot in welt but below welt 7c extra Each additional picot after welt or flare narrowing. . ic extra Each stripe i j i c extra (was 3c); this is to apply only when carrier is started from and returns to the same side of the machine that the stop is made for the change. Single course stripe 3c extra (was Jc) Pointed silk heels not to exceed 7 from loose course, 2,Kc Extra (if plaited jc extra) (was 5c) For each half inch in addition to 7*, ic extra (new) If plaited, l>ic extra (new) Double pointed work, twice the single point extra Split reveling courses, left side carrier, 3c extra (was 5c) Split reveling courses, right side carrier, I yic extra (was Jc) Resist dye high heel and heel silk, 7c extra (was 10c) Resist dye high heel and heel cotton, 5c extra (was 7#c) White heel tips, 5c extra (new) J thread on 39 and 42 gauge, plus 5c (was 10c) 4 thread on 39 and 42 gauge, plus 10c (same) 4 and 5 thread on 45 and 48 gauge, plus Jc (was 10c 3 thread on 45 and 48 gauge, plus 10c (same) 42 gauge, ioc more than 39 gauge (same) 45 gauge, 15c more than 42 gauge (was 20c) 48 gauge, 20c more than 4J gauge (was 30c) Shadow clocks, 20c extra (was 30c) On footers, the rate will be one-third of the extra that applies to leggers (was /4) No knitter may be taken into the Union unless there is a job for him. A list of the present Union membership will be put in the hands of the permanent arbitrator for the purpose of checking the paragraph next above. Toppers will be expected to help on footers in an effort to maintain efficient production.

196

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

SCHEDULE

WORKER

B

Leccers 39 gauge cotton garter top, 6 to 12 thread, standard courses 1275, standard price I 1 04yi 39 gauge silk to the welt, 6 to 12 thread, standard courses 1350, standard price 109K 39 gauge all silk or cotton back welt, 6 to 12 thread, standard courses 1400, standard price 1.14yi 39 gauge cotton garter top, 5 thread, standard courses 1375, standard price 1.09yi 39 gauge silk to the welt, J thread, standard courses i4$o, standard price 1 . 1 4 y i 39 gauge all silk or cotton back welt, 5 thread, standard courses 1500, standard price 1.19yi 39 gauge cotton garter top, 4 thread, standard courses 1375, standard price 1 . 1 4 y i 39 gauge silk to the welt, 4 thread, standard courses 1450, standard price 1 . 1 9 y i 39 gauge all silk or cotton back welt, 4 thread, standard courses 1500, standard price 124^ 42 gauge cotton garter top, 6 to 11 thread, standard courses 1350, standard price... 1.I4 42 gauge silk to the welt, 6 to 11 thread, standard courses 1400, standard price 119K 42 gauge all silk or cotton back welt, 6 to 11 thread, standard courses 1450, standard price \ ,1+yi 42 gauge cotton garter top, 5 thread, standard courses 1425, standard price 1 . 1 9 y i 42 gauge silk to welt, J thread, standard courses 1500, standard price. . . 1 . 2 4 ^ 42 gauge all silk or cotton back welt, J thread, standard courses 1550, standard price 1.29^ 42 gauge cotton garter top, 4 thread, standard courses 1425, standard price 1 . 2 4 ^ 42 gauge silk to the welt, 4 thread, standard courses 1500, standard price 1 . 2 9 y i 42 gauge all silk or cotton back welt, 4 thread, standard courses 1550, standard price ! -34# Six carriers are standard on ledgers. Above prices are the standard prices on eighteen section leggers. Footers 39 gauge, 20 section, 6 to 12 thread, gum silk, split foot, 4 carriers, stand- $ .29 l A ard price 39 gauge, 20 section, 5 thread, gum silk, split foot, 4 carriers, standard price 41 39 gauge, 20 section, 4 thread, gum silk, split foot, 4 carriers, standard price 43 42 gauge, 20 section, irrespective of strands—3$c more per dozen than thirty-nine gauge prices. T h e present standard prices include the step sole and the block toe without extra charge, provided these changes are accomplished without loss of time. T h e Committee will explain this in detail.

SCHEDULE

A

Ingrain A l l Extras, are temporary and are subject to change after a time and effort study has been conducted by a committee of three experts, one to be chosen by

APPENDIX

B

197

the manufacturers, one to be chosen by the Union, and an impartial expert to be chosen by the first two. Each operation in the manufacture of hosiery will be so studied, and as fast as the work on each operation is concluded, the revised rate will go into effect. A knitter discharged may appeal his case to the union committee in that shop, and if still not satisfied with the decision arrived at may bring his case before the Executive Board of the local union. If the Executive Board feel that there is a question of doubt surrounding the discharge of the member, they shall be entitled to take his case before the Impartial Chairman. Should his decision be in f a v o r of the discharged member, the employer shall place him back in his position with back pay f o r the time that he has been without employment. There shall be a leeway downward of 50 courses less than the maximum number specified in Schedule " C , " which shall still be considered as standard, and is to be paid the basic rate. For each 20 courses below the 50 courses, ic. less shall be paid. Until such t'"me as a joint time study shall be made, to determine the proper rate, less than the basic rate, which shall apply to the long section and speed machines, the rate shall be determined as follows: The rate on long high-speed legging machines will be one cent less per section over 18 per dozen, plus one-half cent less per section per dozen f o r each four courses over fifty-two. In other words, a 24-section machine running sixty-four courses per minute will pay six cents less per dozen for sections and nine cents less per dozen for speed, or a total of 1 j cents less per dozen. Long high speed footers will pay one-half cent less per section per dozen over twenty, and one-quarter cent less per section per dozen for each four courses over fifty-two. In other words, a 24-section footer running sixty-four courses per minute will pay five cents less per dozen; a 28-section footer running sixty-four courses per minute will pay ten cents less per dozen. The employers are to enter contractual relations with our National Organization, which shall include: (a) That the knitting department including toppers and helpers, must be ( 1 0 0 % ) one hundred per cent organized, (b) Any department in a given shop already organized must remain organized, (c) There shall be no intimidation in any department which shall tend to discourage employees from becoming members of our Organization. A definite hourly rate, in addition to the piece rate earnings, shall be paid f o r all overtime, such rate to be determined a9 follows: The average knitters' earnings of five ( j ) widely separated mills f o r 48 hours of work shall be used to arrive at the proper hourly rate f o r overtime and one-half of such hourly rate, in addition to the regular piece work rate, shall be paid f o r such overtime same shall apply to organized auxiliary help. The question of tightly knit foot shall be given consideration. The Union suggests that we determine the proper number of courses for a given style on footers, to be determined by using 10 shops (size 9 as example) averaging

198

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

the courses f o r a given style to this sire 9 t h e result to give us the proper number of courses. Under this arrangement a separate test is to be made in approximately 1 o different shops, on each different endage in general use. This study will establish the average number of courses in the feet of various styles and thus provide proper basis f o r calculation of charge or refund for excessive or under courses. When there is a dispute on a given style as to prices, the representative discussing the proper rate shall be permitted to see the style being made, in order that he might discuss more intelligently the merits or demerits of the proper rate to be paid. There shall be established a joint employment bureau. Helpers shall be gradually eliminated from the 18, 20 and 22-section type footers. There shall be no more apprentices (helpers) taken into the trade in such shops as there are helpers on footers until all of the footers' helpers are advanced to the first stages of knitting. Apprentices, after training period of four years as a helper, shall advance to the stage of an apprentice knitter and shall be given a machine of his own, and shall be paid-as follows: First six months Second six months Third six months Fourth six months

55% 70% 80% 90%

of of of of

full full full full

price price price price

At the end of the f u l l six years, the apprentice shall advance to the stage of a knitter, and shall be' given a single legger of the so-called 18 or 20 section slow speed type. He shall be paid the standard single legger rate, and shall not be entitled to advancement on a footer, or long section machine, until the expiration of two years. Where both gum silk and ingrain are made, all stages of apprentice knitter and knitter must apply to the gum silk machine. Forty-eight hours shall constitute a week, divided in five days of 8j4 hours and Saturday 454 hours. A l l additional hours shall be considered overtime and paid accordingly. The price of extras will be as follows: Self colored picot With stripe Each additional picot in welt Picot after welt If no picot in welt, but below welt Each additional picot after welt or flare narrowing

7 c 8Jic 1 c i c 7 c 1 c

extra extra extra extra

Each stripe, I y i c extra; this is to apply only when carrier is started from and returns to the same side of the machine that the stop is made for the change. Single course stripe, 3c extra. Pointed silk heels not to exceed 7 inches from loose course, i y i c . Extra (if plaited, J c extra). For each half inch in addition to 7 inches, ic extra. If plaited, l } 4 c extra. Double pointed work, twice the single point extra.

APPENDIX

B

199

Split raveling courses, left side carrier, 3c extra. Split raveling courses, right side carrier, 1 yic extra. Resist dye high heel and heel silk, 7c extra. Resist dye high heel and heel cotton, 5c extra. White heel tips, 5c extra. Three thread on 42-45 and 48 gauge 10c extra. T w o thread on 45-48 and 51 gauge, above 3 thread, IJ cents extra. Lace Clox: (Leggers) 14c for tackle, and ic for every 5 dips. Lace Clox: (Footers). Where number of dips is less than 25, base is One Cent plus One Cent for each five dips. Where dips are more than 25, base is plus f.oi for each 5 dips. Shadow Clox: 20c extra. On footers, the rate will be one-third of the extra that applies to leggers. No knitter may be taken into the Union unless there is a job f o r him. A list of the present Union membership will be put in the hands of the permanent arbitrator for the purpose of checking the paragraph next above. Toppers will be expected to help on footers in an effort to maintain efficient production. It is understood that Schedule " C " attached is a supplement to Schedule " A " and becomes a part of this agieement.

SCHEDULE

C

Ingrain LEGGERS

( 1 8 Section 6 Carriers Standard) 42 gauge 42 gauge 42 gauge 45 gauge 4J gauge 48 gauge 51 gauge

all all all all all all all

silk, silk, silk, silk, silk, silk, silk,

6 5 4 6 4 4 3

to 10 thread, standard courses 1400, standard price. . $1.52 thread, standard courses 1500 ,standard price 1.61 thread, standard courses 1500, standard price 1.66 to 9 thread, standard courses, 14JO, standard price... 1.67 and 5 thread, standard courses, 1550, standard price . 1.76 thread, standard courses 1600, standard price 1.96 and 4 thread, standard courses, 1700, standard price . 2.41 FOOTERS

(20 Section 4 Carrier Standard) 42 gauge, 42 gauge, 42 gauge, 45 gauge, 45 gauge, 48 gauge, 51 gauge,

6 5 4 6 4 4 3

to 10 thread, standard price thread, standard price thread, standard price to 9 thread, standard price to 5 thread, standard price thread, standard price thread, standard price

$ -54^ 56 57X 59.K 61 68 86

NOTE—There shall be a 5 % reduction on leggers and footers on 54 and 57 gauge machines.

200

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

A R T I C L E S O F 1930 A G R E E M E N T ARTICLES OF ACREEMENT entered into the n t day of August, 1 9 3 0 , by and between

FULL

FASHIONED HOSIERY

MANUFACTURERS

OF A M E R I C A ,

INC.,

a

corporation organized under the Membership Corporation L a w of the State of New Y o r k , hereinafter designated as the Association, on behalf of its members h i p a n d t h e A M E R I C A N F E D E R A T I O N OF F U L L F A S H I O N E D H O S I E R Y W O R K E R S ,

hereinafter designated as the Union) the term " M e m b e r " as hereinafter used shall refer to and designate the Members of the FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY M A N U F A C T U R E R S OF A M E R I C A , I N C . , A.

WITNESSETH:

RECITALS

1. Both parties agree that in order to maintain f a i r and equitable standards in the industry, the conditions of work and the cost of labor shall be equalized, and further agree not to exercise their rights, powers and functions oppressively in dealing with each other. T o carry the foregoing principles into effect, the Union agrees that it will not during the term and continuance of this agreement enter into any operating or other agreements with manufacturers, Members of the Association, or those who have been Members of the Association while this or the agreements hereby superseded were in force, or with manufacturers whose shops or any part thereof are now or will then be unionized, which agreements by their terms expressed or implied, would give to such manufacturers any benefits, rights, privileges or enable such manufacturers to effect economies not enjoyed by the Members of the Association hereunder. The Union further agrees that it will not enter into any agreements with other manufacturers of hosiery without first submitting such proposed agreements with said other manufacturers to the Impartial Chairman f o r his opinion and approval as to whether such proposed agreement or agreements are equitable and f a i r and in keeping with the spirit of this agreement. 2. This agreement shall apply uniformly to all factories in the United States presently owned and operated in whole or in part by any firms and/or corporations and/or individuals who shall be Members of the Association. This agreement shall also apply uniformly with f u l l force and effect to each and every branch, body or local of the Union. B.

EMPLOYMENT

1 . T h e Association agrees that its Members will employ as winders, leggers, footers, toppers, loopers, seamers, menders, boarders, examiners, pairers, folders, stampers, boxers and apprentices to the foregoing occupations, none but members of the Union. Ninety (90) days shall be allowed to the Union f o r the unionization of such of the foregoing workers as are not presently organized. 2. In the event that the Union cannot supply competent workers within

APPENDIX

B

201

forty-eight (4.8) hours after formal request is made, the Association and/or members thereof may secure such workers from other sources, it being understood, however, that the Member shall pay to such workers the same scale of wages as hereinafter set forth and that such workers, when such workers so request, shall become members of the Union within fifteen ( 1 5 ) days after their employment; should, however, such workers fail or refuse to make such request, then and in that event if the Union can within fifteen ( 1 5 ) days a f t e r their employment replace them by competent help from the Union, such outside workers shall be discharged by the Members immediately upon such replacement. 3. T h e Members shall also have the right to re-employ any worker who shall have disobeyed the orders of the Union although it is understood and agreed that such worker may otherwise be disciplined by the Union, the form of the discipline to be left entirely to the discretion of the Union. 4. T h e Member shall have the free exercise of the right to employ or discharge any worker in accordance with the necessity of his or its business, provided in the case of a discharge from employment such discharge is in good faith, And provided that in exercising that right the Member will do so without discrimination against union workers. A worker discharged may appeal his case to the union committee in that shop and if still not satisfied with the decision arrived at by the committee, may bring his case before the Executive Board of the local union. If the Executive Board feel that after due hearing the discharge of such worker was discriminatory or unfair, such Executive Board in its discretion may take his case before the Impartial Chairman. Should his decision be in f a v o r of the discharged worker, the employer shall reinstate him in its employ with back pay f o r the time that he has been without employment. 5. No employer shall discharge knitters now operating single machines, solely f o r the purpose of taking advantage of the reduced rates affecting the two machine system of operation. 6. No worker may be taken into the Union unless there is a job f o r him. 7. A list of the present Union membership will be put in the hands of the Impartial Chairman f o r the purpose of checking the paragraph next above. 8. There shall be established a joint employment bureau. C.

HOURS

Forty-eight hours shall constitute a week, divided into five days of hours and Saturday hours. A l l additional hours shall be considered overtime and paid accordingly. D.

OVERTIME

1 . A definite hourly rate in addition to piece rate earning, shall be paid f o r all overtime. 2. Pending the establishment of such rate by negotiation, or decision by the

202

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

Impartial Chairman in case of disagreement, the overtime rates established in January, 1930, shall be paid. 3. T h e establishment of the overtime rates on all operations shall be completed by October 1 , 1930. 4. T h e Boarders will grant a maximum of 180 hours of overtime at the schedule rates, to be worked in 90 days, to care f o r production stocked in the grey during the slack season. Overtime in excess of the hours ( 1 8 0 ) in 90 days shall be paid f o r at the rate of time and half time. Wherever possible, one day's notice shall be given employees when they are required to work such overtime. This overtime shall be worked during the 5 f u l l working days. The boarders will stay and finish such goods on Saturdays that may spoil if left laying over the week end, at schedule rates, but shall not be expected to remain after 1 1 . 1 5 P . M . Boarders shall not be required to work overtime at schedule rates on any day during which they have not been required to work the normal schedule of i ^ i hours, and any overtime worked on such days shall not apply to the understanding of 180 hours in 90 days at schedule rates. Each mill will employ sufficient Boarders to finish normal capacity production in hours. E.

RATES

T h e following schedule of detailed rates and the conditions herein otherwise set forth, shall be considered part of this agreement. LECGERS—SINGLE

MACHINES

STANDARD—18 SECTION MACHINES, 6 C A R R I E R S , 5 2 COURSES P E R Gauge

39 9 39 39 39 19 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

8 8

Construction

Silk to the Welt All Silk or Cotton Silk to the Welt All Silk or Cotton Silk to the Welt All Silk or Cotton Silk to the Welt All Silk or Cotton Silk to the Welt All Silk or Cotton Silk to the Welt All Silk or Cotton All Silk or Cotton Silk to the Welt AU Silk or Cotton Silk to the Welt All Silk or Cotton All Silk or Cotton All Silk or Cotton All Silk or Cotton All Silk or Cotton

Back Welt Back Welt Back Welt Back Welt Back Welt Back Welt Back Welt Back Welt Back Back Back Back Back

Welt Welt Welt Welt Welt

MINUTE

Thread

Courses

6 to 1 1 6 to 12 5 5 4 4 6 to 11 6 to 11 5 5 4 4 3 6 to 9 6 to 9 4 and 5 4 and 5 3 6 and 7 4 and 5 3

1300101350 13J0 to 1400 1400101450 1450101500 1400101450 1450101500 1350 to 1400 1400101450 1450101500 1500 to 1550 1450 to 1500 1500101550 1500101550 1400101450 1450 to 1500 1500 to 1550 1550101600 1550 to 1600 1550101600 1650101700 1650 to 1700

PRIE

$ 1 I 1 I 1 1 1 I 1 1 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 1

APPENDIX Gtuge

51 51 j1

Construction

All Silk or Cotton Back Welt All Silk or Cotton Back Welt All Silk or Cotton Back Welt

203

B Thread

Courses

6 4 and 5 3

1600 to 1650 1700101750 1700101750

Price

EXTRAS

Price

Picot in Welt Each Additional Picot in Welt Picot after Turning of Welt Picot at Joining of Welt or yZ" before turning First Picot Dip (irrespective of where placed) Each Stripe (even number of courses) Each Stripe (odd number of courses) Pointed Silk Heels not to exceed 7" from loose course Pointed Silk Heels (plaited) Pointed Silk Heels for each y i " over 7* Pointed Silk Heels for each y i " over 7* (plaited) Modified or French Heels (silk) Modified or French Heels (plaited) Double Pointed Heels (twice the single point price) Shadow Clox (based on tackle used) Split Ravell'ng Courses (li 03 o2 l A 05 01 o\lA 01 % 02 l /i 05 to . 10 03 01 y i 07 05 05 10 14 01 01 14 01 01 10 01 50

J

acquard (for each 6 dips up to 450 dips) Jacquard (for each 10 dips above 450 dips) Jacquard (for each section less than 18) English Instep without Toe English Instep with Toe Ingrain Boiled-off Silk For each 20 Courses above Maximum of Standard For each 20 Courses below Minimum of Standard, Minus For each Section more than 18 Sections, Minus For each 4 Courses per minute, more than 52 Courses per minute, Minus for each Section over 18 Sections Leggers must help each other on all single machine jobs. LECGERS—DOUBLE STANDARD—Two Guage

39 39 39

$1.70 1.75 1.80

01 01 05 20 25 25 I2>£ 01 01 02 00

MACHINES

18 SECTION M A C H I N E S — 6 CARRIERS

Construction

Silk to the Welt All Silk or Cotton Back Welt Silk to the Welt

Thread

Courses

6 to 12 6 to 12 5

1300 to 1350 1350101400 1400101450

Price

$ .54 .59 .59

204

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

S T A N D A R D — T w o 18 SECTION M A C H I N E S — 6

Gauge

39 39 42 42 42 41 41 42 42 4«; 45 4? 45 45 48 48 48

Construction All Silk or Cotton Back Silk to the Welt AU Silk or Cotton Back Silk to the Welt All Silk or Cotton Back Silk to the Welt All Silk or Cotton Back Silk to the Welt All Silk or Cotton Back All Silk or Cotton Back Silk to the Welt All Silk or Cotton Back Silk to the Welt AU Silk or Cotton Back All Silk or Cotton Back All Silk or Cotton Back All Silk or Cotton Back All Silk or Cotton Back

CARRIERS—Continued

Thread

Welt

i 4 4 6 to 11 6 to 11 5 5 4 4 3 6 to 9 6 to 9 4 and 5 4 and 5 3 6 and 7 4 and 5 3

Welt Welt Welt Welt Welt Welt Welt Welt Welt Welt Welt

WORKER Courtes

1450 to 14OO to 1450 to »35° to 1400 to >4 5° to 1500 to 1450 to 1500 to 1500 to 1400 to 1450 to 1500 to 1550 to 1550 to 1550 to 1650 to 1650 to

Price

1500 $ 64 .64 I4?0 1500 .69 1400 •59 i4i 1700 • 86K 1700 •9iK

EXTRAS

For each Section more than 36 Sections, Minus .01. Picots and Stripes to pay half the Single Machine Extra. All other extras same as Single Machine Extras. All 18 and 20 section standard speed legging machines of 39 gauge, 42 gauge, 45 gauge and 48 gauge may be doubled on gum silk. In order to effect the double machine program, members may operate two shifts. When two knitters are operating the same machine or the same two machines, the hours of employment shall be equally divided between them. FOOTERS STANDARD—20 SECTIONS, 4 CARRIERS, 5 2 COURSES P E R AND T O E

M I N U T E , COTTON

SOLE

Price

39 gg. 6 to 12 thread 39 gg. 5 thread 39 gg- 4 thread 42 gg. 6 to 11 thread 42 gg. 5 thread 42 gg. 4 thread 42 gg. 3 thread 45 gg. 6 to 9 thread 45 gg. 4 and 5 thread 45 gg. 3 thread 48 gg. 6 and 7 thread 48 gg. 4 and J thread 48 gg. 3 thread 51 gg. 6 thread Ji gg. 4 and J thread j 1 gg. 3 thread

$ .3$ 36^ 38X 38.J4 40 41 43X 43K 45 .46^ 50 51 # 53K 60 61^ 63^ EXTRAS

All Silk and Toe Plaiting Sole and Toe (slow speed—45 courses or less)

02 oj

APPENDIX

205

B

Price Plaiting Sole and Toe (normal speed) $ .03 Plaiting Sole and Not Toe (or vice-versa) one half above extra Net, Mesh or Fish Net (for tackle) 04X Net, Mesh or Fish Net (for each twelve dips) 01 Lace Clox (for tackle) 04yi Lace Clox (for each twelve dips) 01 Resist Dye Sole and Toe or Either (silk) 03K Resist Dye Sole and Toe or Either (cotton) oiyi For Each Extra Carrier oiyi Extra for T w o Thread (above 3 thread) 03M For Each Section more than 20 Section—minus 01 For each 4 Courses per Minute more than 52 Courses per Minute—Minus for each Section over 20 ooyi Ingrain 08 Boiled-off Silk 04 HELPERS

(Long Section Footers) 24 24 24 24 28 28 28 28

section, section, section, section, section, section, section, section,

up to 52 courses per minute inclusive 56 courses per minute inclusive 60 courses per minute inclusive 64 courses per minute inclusive up to 52 courses per minute inclusive 56 courses per minute inclusive 60 courses per minute inclusive 64 courses per minute inclusive

$ .08 07 c6y£ 07yi 07 06yi 06

When helpers are required on footers, making special grades of work, they shall be paid in accordance with the agreement—decision number three ( 3 ) , October 26, 1 9 2 9 . TOPPERS

39 gg. 6 to 12 thread Split Foot % 39 gg. 6 to 1 2 thread Plaited Foot (regular speed) 39 gg. 6 to 1 2 thread Plaited Foot (slow speed) 4 and 5 thread (extra above standard) 3 thread (extra above 4 thread) 2 thread (extra above 3 thread) 42 gg. (extra above 39 gauge) 4 i gg- (extra above 42 gauge) 48 gg. (extra above 45 gauge) 51 gg. (extra above 48 gauge) Ingrain Boiled-off Silk Lace Clox (extra) Net, Mesh or Fish Net Toppers must help on footers in an effort to maintain efficient production.

Price .28 1%% 28,54 02yi 00yi 03 02 02 05 08 08 04 06 12

LOOPING

39 42 45 48 SI

88gg. gg. gg. gg.

20 io 22

24 26 28 30

point point point point

point

15 16 17 18 23

206

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

LOOPING—Continued For each gauge looped on less points than specified For hand ravelling Ingrain For hand ravelling on Ingrain Boiled-off Silk

Price % .ooyi 03 08 o\yi 04

SEAMING

6 to 11 thread 5 thread 4 thread 3 thread 1 thread Pointed Heels Stripe and/or Picot Each additional stripe in leg one/half inch or more from joining of welt. . Net, Mesh or Fish Net Ingrain Boiled-off Silk

ij 16% 18 20 1J 01 01 .01 03 08 04

BOARDERS RATES

7 to 12 thread metal forms 4, J and 6 thread metal forms 7 to 12 thread wooden forms 4, J and 6 thread wooden forms 7 to 12 thread Proctor Machines 4, 5 and 6 thread Proctor machines Extra for picot edge (forms) Extra for picot edge (machines) Extra for three thread (forms) Extra for three thread (machines) Extra for outsizes Extra for each three inches or fraction thereof Minus for misses hose Standard length 30 to 31 inches, inclusive. 1. On out 2. All the

14 15 16yi 08 08yi 01 00yi 02 01 oi}4 01 yi 01 y i

machines operated by two persons, operator in charge is to pay the helper of the schedule rate. extras arising from shop conditions shall be subject to a joint agreement in presence of the Impartial Chairman. SUNDRY RATES

1. When there is a dispute on a given style as to prices, the representative discussing the proper rate shall be permitted to see the style being made, in order that he may discuss more intelligently the merits or demerits o f the proper rate to be paid. 2. A l l rates f o r all operations are based on silk of 1 3 / i j denier. Silk of different denier as well as artificial silk or combination yarns of any kind whatsoever shall be reduced to the 1 3 / 1 5 denier tram equivalent and shall be paid for at those rates. 3. Winders, menders, examiners, pairers, folders, stampers and boxers shall receive the same rates as now in effect until such time as negotiations will have been completed, promulgating new rates on these operations. It is agreed that

APPENDIX

B

207

negotiations in regard to these rates shall have been completed on or before October i , 1930, and in the event of failure to reach an agreement, a decision shall be rendered by the Impartial Chairman by October i , 1930. 4. On 54 gauge and 57 gauge ingrains there shall be a reduction of on leggers, footers, toppers, loopers and seamers.

15%

5. When the aggregate cost of any operation has been computed with the inclusion of all extras and the resulting figure consists of a fraction, the employer shall pay to the nearest half cent above the fraction. F . A P P R E N T I C E S AND

HELPERS

1. Helpers on leggers shall be paid by the management. 2. Helpers shall definitely be eliminated from the 18, 20 and 22 section type footers. There shall be no more apprentices (helpers) taken into the trade in such shops as there are helpers on footers until all of the footers' helpers are advanced either to the first stages of knitting or as apprentices (helpers) on two ( 2 ) leggers. 3. There shall be a three mo.ithi' experimental psricd with helpers cn two machines on leggers. During this period: a. A legger operating without any assistance f r o m a helper or other help commonly given by management shall receive Fifteen Cents per dozen. b. A legger working on two machines with one helper, the employer shall pay the cost of the helper. c. Where a helper or a group of helpers assist more than one knitter, the cost of the helpers shall be borne by the employer, and the savings effected from Fifteen Cents per dozen shall be distributed among the knitters affected. d. T h e 2 5 % helpers on leggers allowed in the expiring agreement shall be continued. e. T h e experiment shall be conducted under the general supervision of a special committee, consisting of an equal number from the Association and the Union with the Impartial Chairman. f . A f t e r the experimental period of three months is over, the Association and the Union shall confer on the subject and in case of a disagreement the Impartial Chairman shall hear arguments and consider the facts established and developed during the experiment, and shall render an award on the facts and arguments as to the proportion, if any, of the cost of the helpers on the system adopted, which shall be borne by the Employer or the knitter. T h e results established f r o m the experiment as f a r as ability to produce is concerned shall be the major element in the negotiations and the decision. 4. Helpers (apprentices), after training period of four years as a helper, may advance to the stage of an apprentice knitter and shall be given a machine of his own, and shall be paid as f o l l o w s :

208

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER 7 0 % of full price 8 0 % of full price 9 0 % of full price full price

First six m o n t h s . . Second six months Third six months. Fourth six months

A s the apprentice reaches the f o u r t h stage, he shall be considered as a f u l l fledged knitter, and shall be entitled to all the rights and privileges of a knitter. 5. No member shall hire f r o m outside of his own shop, an apprentice knitter in preference to a f u l l fledged knitter providing said f u l l

fledged

knitter is

obtainable. T h i s is not, however, to apply to an apprentice knitter employed in the member's f a c t o r y . G . A D M I N I S T R A T I O N OF T H E

AGREEMENT

1 . T h e contracting parties, f o r themselves, their successors or assigns and f o r their respective members, officers and agents, agree that f o r the f u l l period o f this agreement, there shall be no strikes, boycotts or lockouts, nor picketing o f any kind or f o r m whatsoever, however peaceable, nor demonstrations, displays or advertisements tending to excite sympathy or protests concerning the relations or matters in dispute between the contracting parties, and that neither o f the contracting parties w i l l authorize, permit, countenance o r s u f f e r the existence or continuance of any of the acts hereby prohibited. 2. A l l grievances arising in any shop shall be adjusted by the Union and the Association a n d / o r Member i n v o l v e d ; in the first instance, such grievances shall be submitted to the Shop Committee and the Shop Foreman or Superintendent representing the Member, and in the event that they cannot adjust such grievances, the matter shall then be submitted to the officials of the Union and the officials of the Association a n d / o r Member. In the event the Union and the Association a n d / o r Member cannot agree, the grievances shall be r e f e r r e d to the Impartial Chairman f o r settlement, who shall give his decision not later than ten ( 1 0 ) daysi after the case has been referred to him. His decision shall be final. 3. T h e Impartial Chairman shall be D r . P a u l Abelson, o f the C i t y of N e w Y o r k , who is hereby designated to act throughout the term and continuance of this agreement. In the event of his resignation, permanent physical incapacity or death, his successor shall be chosen by a committee to be composed of three representatives of the Union and three representatives o f the Association, and the majority of the whole committee shall be necessary to the choice o f such successor. Such successor shall be chosen within

fifteen

(IJ)

days a f t e r the

vacancy shall have occurred. T h e compensation and expenses of such Impartial Chairman shall be borne jointly by the Association and the Union. H.

MISCELLANEOUS

1 . T h e Union agrees to provide and continuously maintain a blanket surety company bond in the sum of T e n Thousand ( $ 1 0 , 0 0 0 . 0 0 ) dollars to protect

APPENDIX

209

B

the Association a n d / o r its Members, to cover any assessment or penalty which may be imposed by the Impartial Chairman f o r any breach under this agreement. T h e Association likewise agrees to provide and continuously maintain a blanket surety company bond in the sum of T e n Thousand

($10,000.00)

dollars f o r the benefit o f the Union, to cover any assessment or penalty which may be imposed by the Impartial Chairman f o r any breach of this agreement by the Association or o f its Members. 2. Notwithstanding the resignation, suspension or expulsion o f any Member of the Association f r o m membership thereof, the Member so resigning, suspended or expelled shall continue to be bound by the terms of this agreement f o r the f u l l fixed term thereof and all obligations of such Member to the Union and to the Association hereunder shall remain unimpaired during such term. 3. T h e signatures of the Members of the Association to this contract shall not be necessary to bind each Member of the Association thereto but a signature to any copy or counterpart of this agreement by any present or f u t u r e Member o f the Association shail be as effective as if this original copy were so signed. 4. T h e Association agrees that its Members will not, during the term of this agreement, shut down any of their machines in order to enable the Member in question to purchase f r o m non-union mills, f u l l fashioned hosiery capable of being made on said machines. It is not the intention of the parties by this paragraph

to

restrict

Members

of

the Association

from

purchasing

full

fashioned hosiery f r o m any one they see fit if the Member cannot supply its particular needs in its own plant but a Member shall not deliberately shut down machines in order to buy f u l l fashioned hosiery f r o m non-union mills. I. UNEMPLOYMENT

FUND

1 . T h e Members of the Association and the Union agree to create a f u n d to be called "Unemployment F u n d , " which will be placed in the hands of a committee or board f o r administration, use and disposition such as w i l l be provided in a supplement agreement to be made between the Association and the Union and the amounts to be contributed by the Members of the Association and the Union shall be as f o l l o w s , it being understood that until the committee or board f o r administration will be named, all payments to the "Unemployment F u n d , " w i l l be made to D r . P a u l Abelson, the Impartial Chairman hereinbefore named, as Trustee. 2. E a c h M e m b e r of the Association, during the term of this agreement, w i l l contribute to such f u n d a sum equal to one ( 1 % ) per cent of the weekly wages paid to such workers in the Member's f a c t o r y as are covered by this agreement and the contribution by Members o f the Association shall begin as of August 1 , 1 9 3 0 . Such payments shall be made coincident with the w a g e payments.

210

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

The Union, beginning with September i , 1 9 3 1 , will contribute to such fund an amount equal to one-half of the sum contributed each and every week by all the Members of the Association, by permitting each Member of the Association to deduct from the wage of each employee who is subject to this agreement one-half of the amount which was contributed to the fund by the Member of the Association, in respect to the wage of said employee. 3. During the coming year the committee or board f o r administration of the said unemployment fund shall study the question and make recommendations to the parties as to what the assessments should be f o r the ensuing year to provide adequate protection for the workers against unemployment; but such recommendations shall be subject to adoption or rejection in whole or in part. 4. In arranging f o r the payment of the weekly sums by the Members of the Association and the Union as herein described, it is not intended that either the Association or the Members of the Association shall have any right, property or interest in the funds accumulating from such payments and shall incur no other responsibility in connection with the disbursement of the said fund over and beyond the obligation to make the weekly payments of the sum herein specified, namely, a weekly payment of a sum equal to one ( 1 % ) per cent of the payroll of the workers coming under this agreement, nor is it intended that any worker employed by Members of the Association nor the Union shall in any way acquire specific rights, property or interest in said fund, but that the committee or board f o r administration of said fund shall be deemed to have completely fulfilled the requirements of this agreement and the supplemental agreement to be entered into, as f a r as the Association or any of its Members are concerned or any individual worker working for the Members of the Association or the Union, are concerned by using said fund f o r the payment of unemployment benefit to Members of the Union or making such other disposition thereof as will be determined upon by the committee or board f o r administration and as may be provided in said supplemental agreement. J.

DURATION

1 . This agreement shall commence and be binding on the parties hereto on the 1st day of August, 1930, shall continue in force until August 3 1 , 1 9 3 1 , and shall be deemed a continuing agreement automatically renewing itself from year to year until terminated, as hereinafter provided and shall supersede the existing agreements expiring September 1 , 1930. 2. Either party shall, however, have the right to terminate this agreement at the end of any yearly period by giving to the other party at least sixty ( 6 0 ) days' previous written notice by registered mail, of its election to terminate the agreement at the end of said yearly period; upon the giving of such notice the agreement shall come to an end at the expiration of the said yearly period. IN WITNESS WHEREOF, the parties hereto have caused these presents to be

APPENDIX

B

211

signed by their respective duly authorized officers and their respective corporate seal* to be hereunto affixed the day and year first above written. F U L L FASHIONED HOSIERY MANUFACTURERS OF A M E R I C A , I N C .

By

JOSEPH

HAINES, JR.,

Vice-President.

A M E R I C A N FEDERATION OF F U L L FASHIONED HOSIERY WORKERS.

By

E M I L RIEVE,

President.

APPENDIX C TABLE

i

MONTHLY PRODUCTION, STOCK ON HAND, AND UNFILLED ORDERS o r WOMEN'S FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY IN THE UNITED STATES, 1 9 0 4 - 1 9 3 0 * Year and Month

Production

Stock on Hand

Unfilled Orden

I ,021 ,999 '.034.498 965,048 926,759 900,758 956,147 1,048,638 I,160,077 1 ,020,596 966,365 880,208 869,667

1.470.244 I.45Í.856 I,222,776

893.273 893,819 848,783 815,662 811,452 874,625 899,669 955.190 954,861 933.316 892,225 912,268

I.95I.496 1,887,806 I.834.O98 2,442,988 2.792,378 3,073,008 2,852,253 2,567.139 2,383.443 3,076,708 3,042,021 2,640,588

1924 January February March April May une

640,350 670,446

uly August September... October November... December... 192 J January February March April May une

564.789 624,982 819,648 759.455 842,701

J

J

uly August September... October November... December... 1926 January February.... March April May une

{

uly August September... October November... December...

715.9" 713.990 7^9.359 648,675 569,912

845,902 856,148 954.762 999,586 983.578 i,027,762 i,042,490 i,050,814 1.059.779 i,198,095 i,084,113 1,187,849 i,122,670 1.155.4M 1.359.780 1,317,860 I,286,420 1.365.675 1.235.985 1,346,025 1,372,880 I,482,920 1,435,760 1.473.095

I ,010,403 1,013,303 I,041,591 I ,070,102 I,114,040 1,205,891t I,4l2,73lt I.535.815 I ,6ll,761 I.737.982 1,704,247 I.785.39I

1,614,33« I,398,l8l I,280,484 1,244,118 1,397.288 I,498,082 1,532,742 I,900,916 1,840,459

2,772,995 2,604,317 2.998,315 3,186,585 3,209,618 3.309.03I 3.175.245 2,762,043 2.585.133 3,023,674 3,013,660 2,846,020

* Baaed upon monthly reports of the United States Department of Commerce. Method of computation explained in Chapter II, p. 31. t Change noted on Department of Commerce reports of classification of stock on hand from "finished-dyed" to "dyed and in the gray." This change was indicated on both Charts II and III by a break in the curve for stock on hand. 212

APPENDIX

C

213

TABLE I, Continued Year and Month

1927 January February March April May June July August September October November December 1928 January February March April May June July August September October November December 1929 January February March April May June July August September October November December J

93°

January February March April May June July August September October November December

Production

Stock on H a n d

Unfilled Orden

I,522,125 1,514,700 I.773.900 I,621,350 I,624,725 1,759,050 I,312,200

2,138,586 2,262,962 2,275,914 2,697,926

2,884,427 2,665,872 2,499.425 2,521,199

1,628,775 I,676,025 1,761,750 I,803,600 1.698,975

2,783.154 2,884,842 2,888,152 2,979,029 2,964,888 2,843,465 2,676,542 2,8l5,202

2,518,324 2,508,405 2.316,033 2,262,368

I,780,650 I,802,250 I,991,250 I,863,675 1,994,625 I,880,550

3.O98.33I 3.310,733 3.221,843 3.388,l6l 3,490,594 3,640,745

3,016,421 2,905,227 2,455.211 2,283,002

i.495.Hi 1.897.425 i,749,600

3.592,785 3.686,697

Î.184.975 2,121,525 1,858,275 2.159.315 2,076,975 2,247,075 2,242,350 2.352.375 2,091,150 2,001,375 2,163,375 2,219,400 2,696,625 2,469,825 2,185,650

3.611,174 3.519.995 3,241,690 3,027,130 3,429,008 3,564,089 3.575.O96 3,634.849 3.761,448 3,690,880 3,960,721 4.I45.027 4,065,94! 3.928,983 3,707,207 3.785.546

2,388,825

4,629,543

2,I93.O75 2,228,175

5.OI9.949 4,968,830 4,980,089

2,163,375 2,059,425 1,888,650 1.575.450 1.756,350 2,121,525 2,605,500 2,266,650 i,962,900

4.897.313 4.749.955 4.789.368 4.629,739 4.478,539 4.385.057 4.159.303 4,120,127

2,574.374 2,686,669 2,929,046 2,782,921

2,317.754 2,408,985 2,241,192 1,925,886 1,900,066 2,005,807 2,668,878 2,716,798 2,789,848 2,390,598 2,127,980 2,228,896 2,465,289 2,381,820 2, 183 , 500 2,377.549 2,434,682 2,391,906 I,988,209 I,766,005 I,686,510 1,438,657 1,272,288 1,215,817 I,130,624 872,556 823,960 864,124 1.773.595 I.714.419 I,396,256 981,450

214

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

TABLE

WORKER

I

INDEX N U M B E R S o r M O N T H L Y D A T A o r S T O C K ON H A N D , U N T I L L E D O R D E R S , AND SHIPMENTS OF W O M E N ' S F U L I ^ F A S H I O N E D H O S I E R Y IN THE U N I T E D S T A T E S * ( J A N U A R Y 1 9 2 4 — 1 0 0 PER CENT) Year and Month 1934 January February March April May June July August September October November December.... 1935 January February March April May une

i

uly August September October November December.... 1926 January February March April May June July August September.... October November December.... 1037 January February March April May une

J

Stock 00 Hand

Unfilled Orders

Shipments

Year and Month

100.0 101. t 93 » 92.0 «O.I 96.1 104.7 117.8 108.4 102.0 94 3 93-3

xoo.o 98 8 83.9 m.7 975 88.0 85.4 94 3 99 8 IOI .4 126.3 133.6

100. 0 134. I 140. 0 135- I 131- 6 uo. 8 91- 9 103. 8 140 3 166 5 145 5 163 7

97 7 99 I 93.8 92 I 91 7 97 1 99 7 106.5 106.8 103.7 X00.9 106.3

131 3 130.5 124.1 164.9 190.0 2IO.X 193 9 174 I 163.3 210.5 213 7 182.5

138.5 147 8 181 4 183 I IÖ7 7 181 I 171 0 171 5 184-9 3IO 2 202 4 318.6

January February March April May

122.6 126.4 r 29. E 131 3 135 4 146 6 t I«9 5t 186 3 195 4 su. a 207.0 314.0

193 I 183.8 213.2 222.2 223.2 3398 317 6 191 -5 175-1 210.4 209. g •95 I

170 I 181 5 323 7 313 3 204 3 223 4 185-6 198 8 313 9 344 9 348 8 339 I

January February

345.0 261.4 363.3 269 5 280.0 3895 293.0 301.5 302.1 389 7 372.9 387.4

189.2 176.9 166.8 167.8 167.1 1673 153-9 152.1 174 3 181.3 198.9 189.2

189 8 324 0 282 7 355 8 264 0 276 I 306 5 353 S 380 0 310 2 337 • 9 303 6

1928 January February March April May July September October November December

July August September October November December

April May July August September October November December

....

Stock on Band

Unfilled Orders

Shipments

J14.1 333 6 335.3 341.6 353 5 353 3 347 3 357 3 348.4 339-3 317-3 300.1

303.6 198.3 170.7 158.6 160.3 168.9 156.6 137-2 134-6 137.6 183.0 188.1

345.0 373-9 J40.3 390.a 313.5 316.3 345 4 300.9 309.6 379 0 393 8 343.6

335 3 350.6 356.6 367-7 377-3 371 6 392.0 409 6 401.0 386.3 355 3 365 6

190.4 166.4 147 4 144 3 158.3 153 3 146.3 IS«. 3 155 9 152.5 128.4 113 I

387.1 311.5 358.3 346 0 363.3 341 9 282.8 319.0 372-3 456.8 448.1 348 3

435 I 466.0 481.8 476.0 470.8 46s 6 467.S 458.6 441.3 436 8 421.1 415 6

107.6 94 7 81.0 81.3 76.7 63 3 58.6 63.8 1379 136.0 101.4 71.3

264.3 298.I 343 I 361.6 346 4 331.5 351.7 393 5 383.0 438 5 4039 365.1

uly August September.... October November.... December.... * Baaed upon monthly reports of the United States Department of Commerce. Method of computation explained in Chapter II, p. 31. t Change noted on Department of Commerce reports of classification of stock on hand from " finished-dyed " to " d y e d and in the g r a y . " This change was indicated on Chart VII by a break in the curve for stock on hand.

APPENDIX C

I

215

1.4 70 3.8 1.1

385

100.0

«3363

Number Per of Workers Cent 3 6 36 66 A 5 1

1.1 3 > 13 9 35 3 33 7 96 3-7 •5

187

100.0

*3455 FOOT

Under $3000 $3000 and under $3500.. 83500 * " 3000.. $3000 " " 3500.. 83500 * " 4000.. $4000 ' * 4SOO- • $4500 " " SOOO.. $5000 " over Total Median Earning

3

77

3 13 4 3 3

II. S 46.3 15-4 li.5 7 7

I 4 19 37 13 8 I

36

100.0

73

$3354

4 I

4 5 I.I

37 0 17.8 XI .0 13

8 33 30 13 3

9.0 36.0 33 7 13 S 3.3

100.0

89

IOO.O

14 5 5

26.0

»37S9

4 3 38.S

M 3 I

Number of Workers

Per Cent

z

3

•6 7 50.0

1 I

16.7 166

Per Cent

60 and over Number of Workers

Per Cent

Tot At

Number of Workers

Per Cent

17 4« 71 68

5 9 U 8 34 4 334 >3 4 9 3 4 4 3*4

39 37

>3 7

14 3 I 7

100.0

6

I1500

»1378

100.0

3

z.o

391

joo.o $•»35

I1367

(Male) S

3 8 S 8

t I

13

>6.7

3

33 3

3

3Ï 0

1 I

II II

I I

I

13 5

3

33 3

I

Z 3

• 6.7 33 3

6

100.0

S

SS 6

3

13 S 37 S

9

100 0

8

100 0

50.0

37 S 37 5 »S 0

X

50 0

9 7 IX

8

lOO 0

3

IOO. O

69

$3100

$2100

$3367

I 3 3 3

$1900

3 0 II.6 7-3 11.6 10.1

7 13

«

17.4 13.0 IO.3 X5 9 100.0

»1683

(Female) 36 3 63.5 35.0 13.J

S 3 I

SO.O SO.O SO.O

I I I

35.O

I

35.O

4

100.0

X

100.0

>3

17 9 31 4 36.S 11.7 9.0

3

•7 3 1

3> S3 17 X

8

XOO.O

$1180

IlSOO

100.0

3

*

* Insufficient data to compute median earning.

I

100.0

*

X

•7

X45

100.0

$1060

THE FULL-FASHIONED

220

a

a-£

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no» o 0 m o ® o o h « r-»oo m ci

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5

Number of Workers

M

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Annual Earnings

1

Cumulative Per Cent

Number of Workers

1

nn

WORKER

1 o'ooi i

s è 1

ci

Total

Cumulative Per Cent

3 (S

osoo v^oo wiinn H « «^ +oo »

HOSIERY

o'oor

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Per Cent

222

b c c i U c «i 21 CL

B C - O C

s *oc

T

TC

A

3

3

3

3

3

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C3 « 9 3 3 3 3 3

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g

8

60 '2 rt W e '•3 «> s

THE

FULL-FASHIONED _h i11

z

HOSIERY WORKER

om«O«O « t^po « N

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M a

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i-l Z

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s e*C n O H 9 M f)0 « o>

ll-° lo z

£ o * «»> i»ooo o> « ") >o «

1-1

00 00 WOO "530

I M N IANV)

l°l

8»808 8 8 8 8»o v

ui 5 >t o »"oi o « "O» w * a a u

3a {3« i « < « i

IUSSS2JJX hum Hi

£

¿H J O» * 1 » » »

18888888 J 0 m j uiS m j 5

APPENDIX

C

TABLE DECILES o r

225

7

W E E K L Y E A R N I N G S OF W O R K E R S IN S I X S E L E C T E D o r THE F U L L - F A S H I O N E D H O S I E R Y I N D U S T R Y , 1 9 1 9

OCCUPATIONS

LEGGING Location of Weekly Earnings of Each Successive Tenth of the Number of Workers Reported 1st

January February. . . . March April May Tune July August September. .. October November. . . December

UA 47 46

»4 1.1 9«

0« 47 81 4«

4 6 OS 40 3 0 4S 13 4 4 7» 45 OS 41 9 9

40 03

id »40 54 SI S3 54 S3 46 SO SO

83

08 l6 69 12

24 19 S» 17 SI 4 9 48 S8 43

81

4th

3d

$54 57 57 57 58

13 7J 61

87 13

56 3 0 SO 38 5 4 >9 53 9 « 55 5 J 5 J 54

46 83

»57

70

61 07 61 13 61 46 61 7 9 5 9 64 5 4 01

7th

Median

6th

«61 5 3 64 81 6483 64 64

»65 60 69.00 68 74 68 46 68 43

»«9 73 74 73 73

66.11

69

6$

'3

63.80 57

61

60.93

S7 51 57 U 5 8 9 S6 03 49 5°

60.16 61.83

83 76 34 49 3S 83

61.59 64 83 63 70 64 9 4 63 .91

77 67 63 6 8 81 66 70

55

56

5 9 47

66 48

69

8th

9th

» 7 5 3> 7 9 76

* 83 34 87 So 88 >4 85 4 4 84 OS 83 18

80 08

77 S5 77 3 5 75 30 71.68 7 5 33 73 74 71

41 05 31 71

78 38

84 16 79 95 93 79 93 93

81

59 S3

36 43

»79 81 85 81 81 79 73 78 76 81 78 67

06 91 93 81 SO 33 45 39 3S 17 IO 78

(81 88 90 84 8s 83 76 81 79 84 80 71

87 37 18 98 14 48 88 16 SS 03 93 41

»84 53 » 91 35 »101 25 100 IS 107 21 93.84 108 75 94 73 99 63 96 33 89 65 10.S 35 89 SO 97 OS 106 43 88.18 94 SO 106 37 92 31 85 IS 80 . S4 96 3 S 84.07 89 02 83 01 70 87 94 l8 102 75 87 73 93 90 83 81 88 17 95 81 76.88 94 33 83 05

»27 06 28 47 28.63 28 09 38.00 37 31 34 51 36.68 36.46 38.48 26.81 33 48

»38 30 30 39 39 38 36 38 28 30 28 34

32 04 si 38 37 74 11 09 06 IS 18 09

»20 33 33 31 31 30 37 30 39 33 39 37

63

70

FOOTING January February. . . . March April May June July August September. . . October November. . . December....

$60 6S 66 63 6.1 61 S6 60 61 63 61 54

88 3S 35 0' 33 57 3' 33 33 is 88 00

•66.73 73 17 73 08 69 01 69 69 67.88 63.03 65 83 66 34 68.88 67.46 57 55

*7i 77 77 7S 75 73 66 71 70 73 71 60

57 45 35 60 .14 01 37 61 67 73 76 64

»75 80 81 78 7» 75 70 75 73 77 75 64

88 74 43 68 38 58 11 4S 34 76 38 61

TOPPING January February.... March April May June July August September... October November. . . December....

»18 19 19 18 18 17 17 17 17 18 18 15

14 OS 22 26 37 55 16 29 90 71 44 74

»21 33 22 22 22 21 20 20 21 22 21 l8

78 70 58 35 43 53 41 94 33 44 60 36

»34 IS 3 5 39 3S 36 35 11 25 36 34 °4 21 78 33 18 23 03 3 S 22 33 63 30 46

»3 5 36 36 36 36 35 3.3 3.5 34 36 25 21

80 93 94 60 6.3 88 14 37 83 85 45 97

58 60 34 81 47 39 84 SO 66 13 S5 18

»33 36 36 34 34 33 39 31 .31 34 33 39

IO 79 19 .11 17 73 57 59 85 II 01 38

»35 39 39 38

»31 .14 .14 33 .11 .11

28 43 99 17 25

« 3 « 80 38 65 .10 37 .17 0 1 .17 04 .16 30 .13 77

32

38 33 34 34 18 35 33

4.1 75 51 0,1 17 00 °4 05 10 61 03 77

LOOPING January February.... March April May June July August September... October November. . . December —

»11 0 3 i.S II 13 1.1 13 7 6 13 31

14 86 11 6 0

14 08 14 3 7 15 19 14 9 0 15 4 1

» I S 38 17 6 7 16 5 7 17 3 5

16 89 18 3 5

IS 17 17

18

37

00 64

39 17 .17 17 64

»17

30

19

17

20. 21 20.15

19 89 21 .OO 17 12 19 4 4

30.37 3 1 . II 19

74

19.86

»19 23 21 22 31 32

31 40

«31

73 34 77

87 20

24 6.3 24 36

01 93

3.1 9 °

07 2 1 53 2 3 18

30 9 6 33 51 33 0 0 2.5 5 0 34 14 23 43

18

2.1 .14 21 0 5

11 66

24 84

» 3 4 37 37 .15 37 3 0 26 6 5

26 OO 26 80 2.1 14 35 6s 35 08 37 0.1 3 6 .19 35 35

» 2 7 51 39 07 3 0 37 3 9 23

38 38

35 03 35 4 4 28 34 28 1 0 3 0 .15

28 69 27 60

70

28 46

31 41 3 0 65 .33 .14 .11 71 39 04

16 38

34

17

.18 IO .16 3 3 34 34

226

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

TABLE 7, Continued SEAMING Location of Weekly Earnings of Each Successive Tenth of the Number of Workers Reported ISt

January February.... March April May June July August September... October November... December....

id

3d

9» o7 M JO I S 41 IS 4 « IS 35 I I SI

»16.07 1907 18.34 18.09 17 84 18.00

$18.02

14 35 I S o,1 13 9 4 13 I S

16.98

lb

1.1 OFL

14 16 17

53 39 45

16.00 16,01

Median

4tk

ai.30 30.92 30.57

20.14 20.40 16.3a 18 98 19.20 19.86 18.10 17.96

»22

$19

97 32.93 3 3 15 33-54

34 35 »4 3.1 33 19 32 22 2.1 22 21

21.96 22.05 1789 31.07

31 .OS

31.73 30.18 1991

18.88 17.00 17.61 18.14 17.17 13

94

14.38 16.47 18.18 16.67 13.9S

$31.08 3 3 25 21.71 23.83 31.46 31.37

17-00 18.30 19.37

33.11 19

99

16.36

$24 12 2 5 14

36 63 37 3 3 34 SO 34 8 6 19 61 31 46 » 3 10 3 6 68 36 25 2 0 18

$37

$10 10

71 90 11 3 3 12 34 12 3 4 1 3 S3 I O 84 II 6 8 II 6 8 II 9 9 II 77 IO 53

$ 1 3 7.1 1 3 48 13 IS

08 29

15

14 IS .1.1 13 8 9 1.1 « 9 13 9 1 14 51 I S 18

13 00

$14

76

1 4 06 14 9 4 17 » 4 16 6 6

17 63 14 94 IS S O 16 15 17 04 17 31 15 31

75

22.38 24. 21 30.21 34.00 3"

43

22.00

BOARDING January February.... March April May June July August September... October November... December

17

26.86 30 56 30 64 3 7 36 29

66

,18 Si 78

69

7th

$24 0 4 3714 37 64 36 84 3 5 89 25

54 55

4S

21

67 54 OS 45

24 3 0 35 31

84

24.61

33

93

$30.17

$33

60

32.81

3° 35

55

23.98

$37

8th 38

39.78 39 90 39 38

39

58 28.19 23 91 27 07

26.40 28.00 36. SO 34.5O

9th

$11 40 33 34 .1.1 .13 31 37 39 38

$14 76

56 57

38 61 40 I I 3 8 61

.18 76 19 73 86

3» 03 3 7 71 .12 1 0

16

.11 1 9 3 9 01 37 07

.14 .11 33 68 .17 00 3.1 4 3 30 3 3

(Male)

BOARDING $17-39

OI

6th

28.57

30.2 J

07 36.00 3 3 83

37

50

40

33

31

33

39

35.31 28.93

40.58 36 67 33 81

94

39.88 88 38.40 43.07 40.56 36.71

33

$35 33

06

37

47

36 43 33

33 14 33

42 43 43

43 55

83

38.41

40 41

78 30.64

$39-63

38.83 3 9 87 41 30 3830 45 75 37-13 4 3 91 4 5 40 4 5 08 44 99 33-55

$48.50 50.80 5150 51.50 45-50 5 1 83

41.69 47.31

48.30 48.50 50.83 34

47

(Female)

$16 .16 15 78 17 00 30 37

18 18 19 91 16 4 0 16 S O 18 3 9 19 S7 19 34 16 9 8

$ 1 7 89 1 7 71 19 07

22 01

19 7 0 21 5 4 17 8.1 17 s o

20 42 22 04 21 .19 18 64

$19 42 19 6 4 20 9 » 2.1 7 5 21 4 5 2,1 1 4 19 26 18 SO 21 9 1 24 5 0 2,1 60 20 3 7

$31 21 32 3S 2.1 24

20 19 33 26 as 23

36 6l 74 79

36 7S 9.1 49 39 66 8.1 38

$33.39 33.60 2451 38.54 25.14 27 56 22.83 21.71 24.88 28.73 38.09 24

39

$36 00 29 10 39 0 4 .1.1 O S 38 7 6 31 31

34

73 3 S SO 38 SS 3 3 04 .11 II

38 15

APPENDIX

227

C

o o o o o o o o o o o o tl °

888888888888

*

I

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VO O I ^ r ) « « ^ ** I— ro o o o ^ — « r ^ o n — r^

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BIBLIOGRAPHY BOOKS, P A M P H L E T S , A N D M O N O G R A P H S ALPORD, LEON P. Management Handbook. N e w Y o r k , 1 9 2 4 . AMERICAN

F E D E R A T I O N OF F U L L - F A S H I O N E D

HOSIERY WORKERS.

Agree-

ments with the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Manufacturers, Inc. Philadelphia, 1 9 2 9 and 1 9 3 0 . BEZANSON, ANNE. Earnings of Upholstery Weavers. Philadelphia, 1 9 2 9 . BRISSENDEN, PAUL F . Earnings of Factory Workers, 1 8 9 9 to 1 9 2 7 . Washington, 1 9 2 9 . DAVISON PUBLISHING C o . York, 1 9 3 0 .

Davison's

DOUGLAS, PAUL H . Real Wages Boston and Ne>v Y o r k , : 9 3 o .

Knit in

Goods T r a d e ,

the

United

LIST OF HOSIERY PRICES. U n i o n . N o t t i n g h a m ,

Yearly.

States,

England,

New

1890-1926.

1885.

P E N N S Y L V A N I A D E P A R T M E N T OF L A B O R A N D I N D U S T R Y . B u r e a u o f

Women

and Children. Special Bulletin N o . 3 1 . Hours and Earnings of M e n and Women in the Hosiery Industry. Harrisburg, 1 9 3 1 . TAYLOR, GEORGE W . Significant Post-War Changes in the Full-Fashioned Hosiery Industry. Philadelphia, UNITED

STATES

DEPARTMENT

OF

1929.

COMMERCE.

Bureau

of

the

Census.

Biennial Census of Manufactures. Knit Goods. Census of Manufactures, 1 9 2 5 . Fourteenth United States Census. M o n t h l y Reports of Hosiery Production, Orders, and Stock, January 1 9 2 4 to December, 1 9 3 0 . UNITED

STATES

DEPARTMENT

OF

LABOR.

Bureau

of

Labor

Statistics.

Bulletin N o . 4 9 9 . History of Wages in the United States f r o m Colonial T i m e s to 1 9 2 8 . Bulletin N o . 5 0 4 . Wages and Hours in the Hosiery and Underwear Industry. 1 9 0 7 to 1 9 2 8 . UNITED

STATES

TARIFF

COMMISSION.

Tariff

Information

Surveys

1-6.

Cotton Knit Goods. Washington. WOODRUFF, RUTH J . T h e Hosiery Industry. Bulletin N o . 5 of the WhiteWilliams Foundation. Philadelphia, 1 9 2 5 .

231

232

THE

FULL-FASHIONED

HOSIERY

WORKER

PERIODICALS COTTON. Monthly. W. R. C. Smith Publi«hing Co. Atlanta, Ga. HOSIERY W O R K E R , T H E . Bi-weekly. American Federation of FtillFashioned Hosiery Workers. Philadelphia. M O N T H L Y LABOR R E V I E W . United States Department of Labor. Bureau of Labor Statistics. Washington. T E X T I L E W O R L D . Weekly. Bragdon, Lord & Nagle Co., Inc. New York. U N D E R W E A R & HOSIERY R E V I E W , T H E . Monthly. T h e Knit Goods Publishing Corporation. New York.

INDEX Ages:

Boarding: all workers in union plants, 1 9 1 9 , ages all workers, 1 3 5 134-137 full-time, 2 1 5 full-time workers by occupation, annual earnings, 1919,115 average, 1928 and 1929, 96, 1 0 1 related to occupation and annual decile, 1928 and 1929, 1 2 9 - 1 3 1 earnings, 1 9 1 9 , 1 3 8 - 1 4 1 , 2 1 6 frequency distribution by, 1928 119 and 1 9 2 9 , 1 2 5 - 1 2 8 American Federation of Full-Fashioned plant averages, 1928 and 1929, Hosiery Workers: affiliation with United Textile 101-110 Workers, 2, 55, 56 related to age, 1929, 138, 2 1 8 , history of development, 6, 61-68 219 1919 and 1930 agreements with related to tenure, 1929, 2 2 1 , 223 Full-Fashioned Hosiery Mandefined, 189 ufacturers, Inc., 2, 49, 50, hours 190-211 average weekly, by months, Annual earnings of full-time union 1929, 167 workers: hours per week, 1929 average, by occupation, 1928 and frequency distribution of boarders by, 176, 230 1929. 9 5 - 1 ° ' median earnings cumulative percentages of workannual, 1928 and 1929, 96 ers, by occupation, earning annual, related to age, 1929, less than specified incomes in 218, 2 1 9 1929, 1 1 7 , 124 deciles, by occupation, 1928 and annual, related to tenure, 1 9 1 9 , 1929, 1 2 ^ - 1 3 1 1 2 2 . 223 frequency distribution of boarders weekly, by months, 1929, 163 by, 1928 and 1929, n c - 1 2 8 weekly earnings frequency distribution of leggers by months, 1929, 1 5 4 - 1 6 0 and footers by, 1928 and 1929, deciles, by months, 1929, 226 111—116 highest, J 60 frequency distribution of toppers, quartiles, by months, 1929, 163 loopers, and seamers by, 1928 and 1 9 2 9 , 1 1 8 - 1 2 4 Chiffon hosiery: related to occupation and age, defined, 80 1929, 1 3 8 - 1 4 2 Collective bargaining, 52-88 related to occupation and tenure, Cost of living: 1929, I43-MS» 220-223 index, by occupation, 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 . related to type of machine oper22 ated, 1929, 1 4 S - 1 S ° , " 4 Average deviations: Deciles: annual earning, by occupation, annual earnings, by occupation, 1928 and 1929, 96 1928 and 1929, 1 2 9 - 1 3 1 method of computation, 94 weekly earnings, by months and Average earnings: occupation, 1929, 225, 226 annual, by occupation, 1928 and Deviations: (see average deviations) 1929, 9 5 - 1 0 1 Districts: in each plant, 1 0 2 - 1 1 0 manufacturing full-fashioned hourly, by occupation, 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 , hosiery, 7, 29 1 4 , 16, 18, 19, 20 Double-leggers: weekly, by months and occupadefined,2 tion, 1929, 1 5 4 - 1 6 0 Double-machine system, 48-50, 59, 60 weekly, by occupation, 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 , Double-shift, 58 14, 16, 1 8 , 19 233

23*

INDEX

Earnings: (see annual, weekly, and hourly earnings) Equipment: cost of, 26 Establishments, full-fashioned hosiery industry: number considered in study, 7, 91 size of, 7 total, 1 Footing: ages all workers, 1 3 5 full-time, 2 1 5 annua) earnings average, 1 9 1 8 and 1929, 96, 1 0 1 cumulative percentage of workers earning less than specified incomes, 1929, 1 1 7 decile, 1928 and 1929, 1 2 9 - 1 3 1 -—•—— frequency distribution by, 1928 and 1929, 1 1 3 - 1 1 6 plant averages, 1928 and 1929, 102-110 related to age, 1929, 1 3 8 - 1 4 2 related to tenure, 1929, 144 related to type of machine operated, 1929, 1 4 6 - 1 5 0 , 224 defined, 8, 186, 187 hourly-earned rates index, compared to cost of living and real wages, 22 index, 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 , 24 • — 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 ° . «4, 16, 20 hours • average, 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 , 14, 16 average weekly, by months, 1929, 167 hours per week, 1929 frequency distribution of footers by, 1 7 1 , 227 median earning annual, 1928 and 1929, 96 annual, related to age, 1929, 142 annual, related to gauge and section, 1929, 148, 224 annual, related to tenure, 1929, 144 weekly, by months, 1929, 160 weekly earnings by months, 1929 average, 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 , 14, 16 average, by months, 1929, 1 5 4 160 deciles, by months, 1929, 225 highest, 159 quartiles, by months, 1929, 160 Full-fashioned hosiery: — — method of computing estimated monthly totals, 31 processes of manufacture, 1 8 4 - 1 8 9

Full-fashioned hosiery (continued) production, 1 3 , 1 4 , 3 2 - 4 3 , 2 1 2 , 2 1 3 shipments, 46, 214 stock on hand, 3 3 - 4 3 , 2 1 2 - 2 1 4 unfilled orders, 44, 2 1 2 - 2 1 4 value of total production, 1929, 25 Full-fashioned hosiery industry: history of growth, 1 3 - 1 4 nature of, 1 3 - 5 1 number of establishments, I size of establishments, 7 Full-Fashioned Hosiery Manufacturers of America, Inc. 1929 and 1930 agreements with American Federation of FullFashioned Hosiery Workers, 2,49.50,190-2" Full-time worker: (see separate occupations) defined, ^o number in all union shops, 92 number in study, 9 1 , 92, 93 Gauge and section: defined,185 related to annual earnings, 1929, 1 4 5 - 1 5 0 , 224 related to wage rates, 75, 79 Gum-silk hosiery: defined,4 related to wage rates, 7 1 , 73, 77 Helpers: need for, 48, 49 paid by knitters, 98 Hourly-earned rates: history of, 52-88 index, by occupation, 1 4

1913-1930,

r • • index, compared to cost of living and real wages, by occupation, I 9 1 3 - I 9 3 0 , 22 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 , by occupation, 1 4 , 16, 18, 1 9 , 2 0 Hours: average, by occupation, 1 9 1 3 1930, 14, 16, 18, 1 9 average weekly, by months, by occupation, 1929, 166-169, 227-230 Hours per week, 1929: frequency distribution of boarders by, 176; footers, 1 7 1 ; leggers, 170; loopers, 1 7 3 ; seamers, 1 7 5 ; toppers, 172 Impartial Chairman: creation of office, 2 selection of, 2 Index: • cost of living, 22

INDEX Index (continued)

hourly rates, by occupation, 1 9 1 3 1930, 24 rates of wages per hour, by occupation, 1 0 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 , 22 real wages, by occupation, 1 9 1 3 1930, 22 Index numbers, monthly data: stock, unfilled orders, and shipments, 1 9 2 4 - 1 9 3 0 , 46, 214 Ingrain hosiery: defined, 4, 188 related to wage rates, 70 Knitters: (see leggers and footers) Labor costs: 27, 29 Legging: ages • all workers, 1 3 5 full-time, 2 1 5 annual earnings average, 1928 and 1929, 96, 101 cumulative percentage of workers earning less than specified incomes, 1929, 1 1 7 decile, 1928 and 1929, 1 2 9 - 1 3 1 frequency distribution by, 1928 and 1929, 1 1 1 — 1 1 6 plant averages, 1928 and 1929, 102-110 • related to age, 1929, 1 3 8 - 1 4 1 related to tenure, 1929, 143 related to type of machine operated, 1929, 1 4 6 - 1 5 0 , 224 defined, 8, 186 hourly-earned rates index, 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 , 24 index, compared to cost of living and real wages, 22 I 9 l 3 - I 9 3 ° i >4, 16, 20 hours average, 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 , 1 4 , 16 • average weekly, by months, 1929, 167 hours per week, 1929 frequency distribution of leggers by, J 70, 227 median earning annual, 1928 and 1929, 96 annual, related to age, 1929, 140 annual, related to gauge and section, 1929, 147, 224 • annual, related to tenure, 1929, «43, , weekly, by months, 1929, 160 • weekly earnings average, 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 , 1 4 , 16 • average, by months, 1929, 1 5 4 160 deciles, by months, 1929, 225

235

Legging (continued)

quartiles, by months, 1929, 160 Looping: ages all workers, 1 3 5 full-time, 2 1 5 annual earnings average, 1928 and 1929, 96, 1 0 1 cumulative percentage of workers earning less than specified incomes, 1929, 124 decile, 1928 and 1929, 1 2 9 - 1 3 1 frequency distribution by, 1928 and 1929, 1 1 9 - 1 2 4 plant averages, 1928 and 1929, 102-110 related to age, 1929, 216, 2 1 7 related to tenure, 1929, 221 defined, 187, 188 hours average weekly, by months, 1929, 167 hours per week, 1929 frequency distribution of loopers by, 1 7 3 , 229 median earning annual, 1928 and 1929, 96 annual, related to age, 1929, 2 1 6 , 217 annual, related to tenure, 1929, 221 weekly earnings by months, 1929, 1 5 4 - 1 6 0 deciles, by months, 1929, 225 highest, 159 quartiles, by months, 1929, 162 Medians: annual earnings by occupation, 1928 and 1929, 96 weekly earnings by months and occupation, 1929, 160, 162, 163 1929 incomes, occupation and age, 140, 142, 2 1 6 - 2 1 9 1929 incomes, occupation and tenure, 1 4 3 - 1 4 4 , 220-223 1929 incomes, occupation and type of machine operated, 147, 148, 224 Number of establishments: (see establishments) Occupations: considered in study, 90 Philadelphia: as Hosiery producing center, 29 Processes: manufacturing of full-fashioned hosiery, 1 8 4 - 1 8 9

INDEX

236

Production of women's full-fashioned hosiery: method of computing estimated monthly totals, 31 monthly data, 1924-1930, 33, 3$, 41, 212, 213 value of, 1929, 2 J yearly trends, 1919, 1927, 1929,

«3, H Quartiles: plant averages, 102-105 weekly earnings by months and occupation, 1929, 160-164 Range in earnings: annual, 127, 129, 130 Rank of firms: in size of plant averages, 1928 and 1929, 107-109 Rates: history of, 52-88 reduction, 47, 48 wages per hour, 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 , by occupation, 22, 24 Reading: as hosiery producing center, 29 Real wages: ; — — denned, 22 index, 1913-1930, by occupation, 22 Seaming: ages all workers, 135 full-time, 215 annual earnings average, 1928 and 1929, 96-101 cumulative percentage of workers earning less than specified incomes, 1929, 124 decile, 1928 and 1929, 1 2 9 - 1 3 1 frequency distribution by, 1928 and 1 9 2 9 , 1 2 1 - 1 2 4 plant averages, 1928 and 1929, 102-110 related to age, 1929, 218, 219 related to tenure, 1929, 222 defined,188 hourly-earned rates index, 1913-1930, 24 index, compared to cost of living and real wages, 22 1913-1930, 19, 20 hours average, 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 . 1 9 average weekly, by months, 1929, 167 hours per week, 15129 frequency distribution of seamers by, 175, 230

Seaming (continutd)

median earnings annual, 1928 and 1929, 96 annual, related to age, 1929,218, 219 annual, related to tenure, 1929, 332 weekly, by months, 1929, 162 weekly earnings average, 19'3-193°> ' 9 by months, 1929, 1$4-160 deciles, by months, 1929, 226 highest, 160 quartiles, by months, 1 9 2 9 , 1 6 2 Seasonality: 47 Sections: (see gauge and sections) Service-weight hosiery: — — defined, 80 Shipments: index numbers, monthly, 1924«93°, 46, 214 seasonality, 46, 47 Single-machine system, 48, 60, 61, 64 Size of establishments: (see establishments) Stock on hand, women's full-fashioned hosiery: index numbers, 1924-1930, 46, 214 monthly data, 1924-1930, 32-43, 212, 213 Style: related to production and prices, 69,70 Tenure: related to annual earnings, by occupation, 1929, 143-14$, 2202y Time and Effort Study Committee: object of, 4 provision made for, 4 Topping: ages all workers, 135 full-time, 215 annual earnings average, 1928 and 1929, 96, 101 cumulative percentage of workers earning less than specified incomes, 1929, 124 decile, 1928 and 1929, 1 2 9 - 1 3 1 frequency distribution by, 1928 and 1929, 1 1 8 - 1 2 4 plant averages, 1928 and 1929, 102-110 related to age, 1929, 216, 217 related to tenure, 1929, 221 defined, 187 hourly-earned rates index, 1913-1930, 24

INDEX Topping (continued)

index, compared to cost ofliving and real wages, 22 1 9 1 3 - 1 9 3 0 , 18, 20 hours average, I 9 > 3 - I 9 3 ° . ' 8 average weekly, by months, 1929, 167 hours per week, 1929 frequency distribution of toppers by, 172, .228 median earnings annual, 1928 and 1929, 96 annual, related to age, 1 9 2 9 , 2 1 6 , 217 annual, related to tenure, 1929, 221 weekly, by months, 1929, 162 weekly earnings

average, I9'3~I93, 18

by months, 1929, 1 5 4 - 1 6 0 deciles, by months, 1929, 225 highest, 159 - quartiles, by months, 1929, 162 Two-machine system: (see double-machine system) defined, 2 Unfilled orders: index numbers, monthly, 1 9 2 4 »930, 46, 2 1 4 monthly data, 1924-1930, 44, 2 1 2 , 213 Union: (see American Federation of Full-Fashioned Hosiery Workers) development, 6, 55-68

237

United Textile Workers: affiliation of American Federation of Full-Fashioned Hosiery Workers with, 2, 55, 56 Wage agreements: 1929 and 1930, between American Federation of Full-Fashioned Hosiery Workers and FullFashioned Hosiery Manufacturers, Inc., 2, 49, 50, 1 9 0 - 2 1 1 Wage-rate: differentials by district, 30, 67, 83, negotiation, 51-88 Weekly earnings: (see average earnings) average, t>y months and occupation, 1929, 1 5 4 - 1 6 0 average, by occupation, 1 9 1 3 .1930. '*» «6, 18, 19 deciles, by months and occupation, 1929,225-226 highest, for each occupation, 1 5 9 160 quartiles, by months and occupation, 1929, 160-164 Weekly hours: (see hours) Welt: defined, 186 Women's hosiery: (see full-fashioned hosiery) Workers: number of full-time and part-time included in study, 91 total number considered in study total number in union shops, 92