Pillow Lace [I]

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PILLOW LACE Book i

by Margaret Hamer

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SUPPLIED BY D. J. HORNSBY BURTON LATIMER 053-672-2791

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INTRODUCTION The examples used in this book are simple patterns of English Maltese lace from the Midland Counties, the Lacemaking area being centred round Bedfordshire, Northamptonshire and Buckinghamshire. This type of lace became popular towards the end of the nineteenth century. Although primarily a book for beginners, I hope that it will serve as an introduction to a lace hitherto unknown. Also, as the basic stitches are the same for all Pillow Lace it should give an incentive to attempt other kinds. I hope that many will find Lacemaking as absorbing a craft as I have done. Under my maiden name (Margaret Waller) I wrote a leaflet on Lacemaking for Dryad Press. Unfortunately this has been out of print for many years. In writing the present booklet I have not copied the earlier publication, although it covers a similar ground, but have worked it out quite independently. I make this statement in case it should be felt that both publications contain the same information. I should thank all those who have critically worked from the instructions to check for discrepancies, omissions or any ambiguous statements. Margaret Hamer. 13 Abbey Road Bedford 1975

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EQUIPMENT FOR LACEMAKING Bobbins These may be made from wood, bone, plastic or various metals. The latter tend to be rather heavy to use alongside the others. The shank is where the thread is wound. Spangles are made up of Head beads threaded on to wire. The function is to add weight to the Shank bobbin, this in turn gives a ten­ sion to the lace. Charms and small shells are sometimes used in spangling bobbins. Stem

Pillow The shape may be various: cushion, bolster or French. The — cushion shape may easily be made as follows: Spangles Prepare — i. A piece of hard board 12-16 inches square. 2. A bag of closely woven strong material, e.g. tailor’s canvas, the finished size to be about 1 inch wider than the board and 2 or 3 inches longer to allow for the stuffing. 3. Wood wool or fine wood shavings or straw.

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To make — Insert the board into the bag and stuff very firmly until the pill ow is as hard as possible. It should have very little resistance to the touch. A piece of foam rubber could be used between the stuffing and outside cover to give a smoother surface. A round pillow can be made in a similar manner using a round base 14-18 inches in diameter. A Bolster pillow should be about 40 inches in circumference and 16 inches long to be of practical use. Anything much less gives too curved a working surface. A French pillow consists of a small roller pillow inserted into a framework to form a sloping platform on which the bobbins lie. To “ Dress a Pillow ” three covers will be required: one, for protection in wear and cleanliness, covers the pillow; plain, prefer­ ably dark, colours are a better background for working. A second, smaller cover, is placed over the pricking to keep the thread from catching on it. The third cover is used to place over all the pillow when not in use. 2

Prickings or Patterns The pattern is first dotted out on graph paper - i/ioth graph paper has been used for all the patterns in this book. The strip of graph paper is then stuck on to a strip of specially toughened card. Use either sellotape over each long edge or small spots of glue at intervals of 2-3 inches. The holes are then pricked through using a soft pad underneath. The pad may be felt or layers of blanket. Remove the paper after pricking. The Pricker can be made by sticking a needle into a handle of cork, \ inch dowel or similar size cane. A No. 7 sewing needle is a suitable size. A pin vice is a useful instrument as the needle can easily be changed to suit the fineness of the pattern. Pins are made of brass, and are rustless. They may be white or yellow, but colour gives added interest to the pillow. Sometimes the pin head is decorated with coloured sealing wax, the “ foot ” (sewing edge) pins being of one colour and the opposite edge, the “ head ” pins, would be another. A medium size, 1^ inch is a convenient size. Thread The type and thickness of thread depends upon availability and coarseness of lace. Linen thread is ideal, but sizes are limited, so cotton and synthetic threads have to be substituted. The specimens of lace illustrated in the book have been worked in the following threads: Stage 1 and 2, Patterns 1 and 2-50 linen thread, an alterna­ tive could be 40 or 50 crochet cotton. Pattern 3 - D.M.C. Cordonnet Special No. 100. Pattern 4 - Coats Trident No. 60. (The above items of equipment are obtainable at E. Braggins & Sons Ltd, 26/36 Silver Street, Bedford.) To wind bobbins Hold the bobbin in the left hand and wind away for about 6 turns, enough to hold the thread on to the bobbin.

B Hold the bobbin vertically and The tension is controlled by holding the thread between 2 fingers of the right hand. When full take off twist in the hand till full.

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about 2 yards of thread and wind the second bobbin from the other end of thread; 2 bobbins are wound with a continuous length. To fasten the thread to the head of the bobbin:

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I Hold the bobbin horizontally in the right hand. thread with the thumb on top.

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II Place the head of the bobbin beyond the finger and thumb and under the thread. Wind towards you twice and twist bobbin away to tighten thread. To lengthen the thread - hold the bobbin horizontally and untwist. To shorten the thread - take up the thread from the shank with a pin, pull up thread and twist the bobbin to tighten.

Stage i Beginners should start with a simple braid which teaches the method of making the stitch. Chart out the 2 rows of holes on graph paper and make the pricking as previously instructed, pin on to the pillow and complete the “ dressing ** as already described. Wind up 3 pairs of bobbins and hang 2 pairs from the pin at A and pair on pin at B. Use the pair from B to make a whole stitch with the next pair from A. Whole stitch is worked in 3 movements as shown in the diagram, (page 6)

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Stage i

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1. i to the right. 2. 2 to the left (i bobbin in each hand, moving at the same time), to the right. 3Leave the pair on the right, take the pair from the left, and work another stitch. The pair which has woven across the other threads is a Working Pair, and is now on the extreme left. The other pairs are Passives. Twist the workers twice, right bobbin over left. Stick pin in hole C with the workers behind the pin. Pick up the first pair from the right, work a whole stitch, and leave on the left. Repeat with the other pair. Twist workers and stick pin at D as before with the working pair behind the pin. Continue working from right to left and left to right until pro­ ficient. When the end of the pricking is reached, start again at the top.

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WHOLE

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CLOTH STITCH

2nd from left move one place to right

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Completed stitch

HALF STITCH is made by using only two stages of the Whole Stitch, i.e. Nos. and 2 6

It is advisable to practice this well before going further so as to be able to handle the bobbins fluently. The hands should be held over the bobbins much in the same manner as when playing the piano or when typing. Stage 2 A o

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Cloth Stitch Foot

Twisted Foot

Prepare another pair of bobbins and hang on to the last pin on the right. After slicking the next pin at the right, work a whole stitch with the new pair and twist each pair twice, use both hands, twisting each pair in each hand simultaneously. There are now 2 pairs on the right of the pin. This is called “ changing the workers Leave the right hand pair and work to the left and right with the left hand pair. Always change workers after the pin on the right. This is a Cloth Stitch footside. A straight edge is preferable when sewing, or attaching to any article. To work a twisted footside, proceed as before but twist every pair after every stitch. Twist once or twice, depending on the tension or thickness of thread.

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* A FEW GENERAL HINTS 1. Practise all stages well to get used to handling the bobbins and to become familiar with terms. 2. When working leave about 2 inches of pins before taking out the back ones to use at the front. 3. To set up again after working down a length of pattern. Use the cloth under the bobbins covering the pricking. Fold the cloth up over the bobbins and pin the two thicknesses of cloth together tightly on each side of the bobbins. Now fold over right and left across the bobbins to make a firm “ parcel Pin to the pillow so that the threads are slack; thus taking the weight of the bobbins from the lace. Take out the pins, move the lace to the top of the pricking, and pin out again. Do not allow the threads between the lace and bobbins to become taut until sufficient length of lace has been re-pinned. 4. To replenish a bobbin which runs out of thread. Re-wind and tie on to the loose thread left. Fasten to head and continue working till the knot is about an inch from the pin. Pick up the bobbin and loop the thread back round the pins, taking about 2 inches of thread; twist with its neighbour and continue working. When clear of the pins cut the loop away. Usually a good place to take out a knot is at a pin before covering. Do not use an outside edge pin to work this process. 5. To join the lace after completion. Work to a point where the pattern is continuous with the beginning. Gut the bobbins, leaving about 4 inches of thread. Using either a needle or crochet hook, thread one of a pair through the corresponding loop on the other edge. Tie with the second thread, using reef knots. The joining can either be done on the pillow, when 1 pair will be cut and joined at a time or cutting away all the bobbins, removing from the pillow and then joining.

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Pattern No. i Mark and make the pricking from the chart. Ink in the lines on the pricking.

Hang 2 pairs of bobbins on pin A for working pairs, 2 at X for passives, and 4 pairs on pin at C (8 pairs in all). The lines are covered by legs which are worked with 2 pairs in half stitch. (See working of cloth stitch.) It could be a good idea to hang 2 pairs of bobbins on to a pin and practice making a leg before starting the pattern. Tighten the bobbins after each stitch to obtain a good tension. On the head side (on the left) at D and E are picots. The 2 rows of holes at the right form the footside and is worked as a twisted footside. 9

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Begin at A. With pair of the workers, work twisted footside to B. Do not put up a pin, leave workers and start with the pairs hanging from C. Use 2 pairs and work in half stitch to form a leg from C to B. With the remaining 2 pairs work a leg from G to D. At D make a picot as follows: Twist the left pair 6 times. Place the pin on top of the thread from left bobbin of the pair. Twist pin to form a loop on the pin, stick pin in hole D; still hold the bobbin in the left hand, keeping the thread slack, and with the right hand turn the 2nd bobbin behind the pin from left to right. Twist the pair to tighten up to the pin and continue in half stitch to the next hole E. Picot at E, continue leg to F.

Return to the workers from the footside. Work i whole stitch with the ist pair of bobbins in the leg from G. Work another stitch with the 2nd pair of the leg. Twist workers twice and stick pin at B Work 2 whole stitches to the right with the first 2 pairs. There will now be 2 pairs of bobbins to the left of the working pair. The 2 pairs have been joined into the footsidc and been released to make a leg to F. The 2 legs (1 from E and 1 from B) are joined by a Windmill Join. Place bobbins in pairs, 4 in all. Use each pair as 1 bobbin and work a whole stitch. Before completing the 3rd stage, put up a pin at F in the middle of the 4 pairs. Complete the 3rd stage and work 2 more legs to the holes G and J with picots at H and I as before. Return to twisted footside, work from B to outside hole K and back to left to L, right to M and left to G. Join in the leg as before and repeat the pattern. Pattern No. 2 - Nine Pin A simple traditional pattern, so-called because there are 9 pins to each head or pattern.

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Using the technique of the previous pattern it should be easy to work out this with only a few hints.

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Each line is covered by a leg. Footside pairs will be hung on pins B and X; 4 pairs will be needed at A to make legs D and C. There is a Windmill join at D with the leg from A and the one coming from the footside at C. Work picots between the legs from D at E, F and G. Windmill join again with leg from D and G at H, and continue footside from C to I, J, K to L, where the leg is waiting to be joined in as before.

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Pattern No. 3 - The Crown This should easily be worked out without further instruction if the principles ol the previous patterns arc followed.

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Pattern No. 4 - with a Scalloped Edge

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Hang 2 footside pairs on each pin at X and B; 8 pairs will be required for the headside. The lines are again covered by legs. Where 2 legs meet (in the centre of the pattern) they are joined by a Windmill join (J). The footside is twisted and worked in the same manner as in previous pattern, beginning from B to A, taking legs in and out at the appropriate holes (N and K). The Headside is a cloth trail. This is worked by weaving one pair of workers backwards and forwards through the other pairs. (See 1st stage.) To begin the trail, hang 2 pairs of bobbins at pin C and the other 6 pairs at D. Work from C through 7 pairs to D, then take out the pin at D; re-insert it with the workers behind the pin. It will now be seen that the 7 pairs are now hanging on to the working pair. Continue the cloth stitch trail, leaving out 2 pairs from C and later 2 pairs from E for legs. Work the legs and return to the footside. The leg going back at F stays in the trail till required in the next head. The leg taken in at the point G comes straight out again to join into the foot. Repeat till length required.

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€> Copyright Margaret Hamer, 1977 The Hive Printers Ltd., Letchworth, Herts