Haynes Vauxhall Cavalier (fwd) Owners Workshop Manual 1850102015, 9781850102014

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Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2020 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

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Vauxhall Cavalier Owners

Workshop Manual Peter G Strasman Models covered All Vauxhall Cavalier models with front-wheel-drive and petrol engines Saloon, Hatchback and Estate; carburettor and fuel injection 1297 cc, 1598 cc and 1796 cc Does not cover Diesel-engine models

ISBN 1 85010 201 5 © Haynes Publishing Group 1983, 1984, 1985 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England (872 - 4L3) ABCDE FGHIJ

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes Publications, 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

Inc

British Library Cataloguing

in Publication

Data

Strasman, Peter G. Vauxhall Cavalier (fwd) owners workshop manual,— (Owners Workshop Manual) 1. Cavalier automobile |. Title Il. Strasman, Peter G. Vauxhall Cavalier owners workshop manual Ill. Series 629.28'722 TL215.C3/

ISBN 1-85010-201-5

Acknowledgements Thanks

are due to Vauxhall

Motors

Limited

for the supply of

technical information and certain illustrations, and for the loan of one of the project vehicles used for the photographs in this manual. Castrol Limited supplied lubrication data, and the Champion Sparking Plug

Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

About this manual /ts aim The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work

must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a

garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

manual

is divided

into

thirteen

Chapters,

each

covering

Unless otherwise

a

logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc.

Introduction The

‘new’

Cavalier

is the

transverse

engine

front wheel

drive

are very similar.

Two-'or four-door Saloon versions are available, also a Hatchback,

stated, nuts and bolts are removed

by turning

and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into Our manuals at the earliest opportunity. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

to the Vauxhall

replacement for the earlier model which carried the same name and had an in-line engine driving the rear roadwheels. The car owes much to the Astra model, upon which it is based, and most mechanical components

References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards. anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications

/ts arrangement The

It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter — eg Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related groups) as the Section or sub-section to which they relate. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own individual contents list.

Cavalier

together with a choice of engine size and transmission. Various levels of trim and equipment are available depending upon the model selected from the range. These vehicles should present few problems for the home mechanic. They are of straightforward construction with good access to all service points.

Page

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NS

Introduction to the Vauxhall Cavalier

N

General dimensions, weights and capacities

a

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

7

Tools and working facilities

8

Jacking, towing and wheel changing

10

Safety first!

12

Routine maintenance

13

Recommended

21

lubricants and fluids

Fault diagnosis

22

Chapter1 Engine

25

Chapter 2 Cooling and heating systems

59

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems

73

Chapter 4 Ignition system

99

Chapter 5 Clutch

113

Chapter 6 Transmission

121

Neen

eee

ee

ee

ee 159

Chapter 7 Driveshafts

ee

ea

ee

Se

163

Chapter 8 Steering gear

Neen

eee 175

Chapter 9 Braking system

eS 200

Chapter 10 Electrical system

eS 244

Chapter 11 Suspension

ee

a

eee

258

Chapter 12 Bodywork

Chapter 13 Supplement: General repair procedures Conversion factors Index

Se

Revisions and information on later models

283 342

34

wo

34 L

Vauxhall Cavalier SRi Hatchback

Vauxhall Cavalier GLS Hatchback

Vauxhall Cavalier L Saloon

General dimensions, weights and capacities For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual

Dimensions Overall length: SHEN(SX0) reddacscduisaen oceeceaneo AOC RNC Ae

oot

Sm a Te, aieGeetSENiat Bean

4.366

m (171.9

in)

4.264 m (167.9 in) 1.669 m (65.7 in) @verallbheig item sse ce ete teases. ccsrsccsesteatesrarieenveetaas: Wine Gl aSelie ters cescesecats cvcsace ovawaceactntsaiiveesstoteets racbasuexteteormersectessraae

1.394

m (54.9 in)

2.573

m (101.3 in)

1.400 m (55.1 in) 1.406 m (55.4 in) 1.406 m (55.4 in)

Weights

Manual

13 OOR2=COOlpr aemrectvat erates tess.ontteotceenirise Mattern eee ee M3 OO MAS COO taeectee ts ootrccnc sec cacere eee es uses eee en eee

941 kg (2072 Ib) 961 kg (2116 Ib) 1011 kg (2227 Ib) 986 kg (2172 Ib) 1036 kg (2282 Ib) 1070 kg (2359 Ib) 1031 kg (2271 Ib) 1100 kg (2425 Ib) 1060 kg (2337 Ib) 80 kg (176 Ib)

flG OORA SCO Ol Perera ecnoa secre (actreteeTasctiat ces scacttte Peres ence NS OOR DS=OOtgscercee rece cereccoccreccre sates ce ccssteereeds evs oes ae ‘NG OORS =OOfaraatenan. etree cceeccsies sonesssitec eee eee

ee

Permissible caravan/trailer towing weight: SOOM ian Uae rerccercecearcere-ot.cccet teescoyskhavs,(sesseassteeasees eee

Braked trailer

Unbraked

950 kg (2094 Ib) 650 kg (1433 Ib) 1100 kg (2425 Ib) 1300 kg (2866 Ib) 1100 kg (2425 Ib)

475 475 500 500 500

Capacities Fuel: tarkegtees

seemer ec. ccoscctecet.csocemtaeereisas meme enictree feestcecs

61 litres (13.4 gallons)

Cooling system: 13 OO narra

ater eee ees cence cescea

Enginexoil (with) filter chamoe)ieesctrcrst: arrears Manual transmission: F10

F16-5

e

Automatic 976 kg (2149 Ib) 996 kg (2194 Ib) 1041 kg (2293 Ib) 1021 kg (2249 Ib) 1066 kg (2348 Ib) 1100 kg (2425 Ib) 1060 kg (2337 Ib) 1130 kg (2491 Ib) 1090 kg (2403 Ib)

6.3 litres (11.1 pints) 7.1 litres (12.5 pints) 7.9 litres (13.9 pints) 7.7 \itres (13.5 pints) 3 litres (5.3 pints) 1.7 litres (3.0 2.0 litres (3.5 2.1 litres (3.7 7 litres (12.3

pints) pints) pints) pints) approx

kg kg kg kg kg

trailer

(1047 (1047 (1102 (1102 (1102

Ib) Ib) Ib) Ib) Ib)

Buying spare parts and vehicle

identification

Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Vauxhall garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows: Officially appointed Vauxhall garages — This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your vehicle and are otherwise not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your vehicle is still under warranty: non-

Vauxhall components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your vehicle’s engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the ‘old’ parts along for positive identification. Remember that some parts are available on a factory exchange scheme — any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your vehicle for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops — These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of your vehicle (eg spark plugs, bulbs, drivebelts, oils and greases,

numbers touch-up paint, filler paste, etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors — Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components,

pistons, valves,

exhaust

systems,

brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals/

shoes and pads etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis — this can save a considerable

amount

of money.

Vehicle identification numbers The Vehicle Identification Number is \ocated inside the engine compartment on top of the front end panel (photo). The plate is marked with the vehicle chassis and designation number and the colour code. Also shown is the maximum gross weight for the car. The engine number is stamped on a flat machined on the engine cylinder block (photo). The chassis number is stamped on the body floor panel between the driver's seat (RHD) or passenger seat (LHD) at the door sill (photo). oy

Rr

29

i ie 4 = ae

MAQE IN.UNITED | Vehicle identification plate

Engine number

Chassis number

eal

ae

Tools and working facilities /ntroduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the Owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doingit-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to Carry Out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grow, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Special category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this manual.

All fixings on these models are to metric sizes.

Maintenance

and minor repair tool kit

The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other): although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

Combination spanners - 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 & 17 mm Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Engine sump/gearbox drain plug key Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake adjuster spanner (when applicable) Brake bleed nipple spanner

Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair \ist. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various

drives are included in the set. We recommend

the + in square-drive

type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list.

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) ‘Mole’ wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

Screwdriver - 6 in long x & in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 2 in long x 2 in square (flat blade) Screwdriver - 14 in long x } in dia (cross blade)

Screwdriver - 3 in long x + in dia (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed Pliers - circlip (internal and external)

Cold chisel - + inch

Scriber Scraper Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw

Valve grinding tool

Stee/ rule/straight-edge Allen keys Selection of files

Wire brush (large) Axle-stands Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

Screwdriver - 4 in long x ¢ in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 4 in long x ¢ in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw (junior) Tyre pump

Tyre pressure gauge Oil can

Fine emery cloth (1 sheet) Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium

size)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are

expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanic al jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of

these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local! garage or tool hire specialist.

Tools and working facilities The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the

vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find

9

Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text

of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job .without the vehicle manufacturers’ special tool is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage.

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

0.250

+ in AF

Valve spring compressor (where applicable) Piston ring compressor

0.276

7 mm

0.313

= in AF

Balljoint separator

0.344

Universal hub/bearing puller Impact screwdriver

Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don't have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal wrenches and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon

restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential.

It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean

0.315

8 mm

3% in AF; 4 in Whitworth

0.354

9mm

0.375

2 in AF

0.394 0.433

10 mm 11 mm

0.438

% in AF

0.445

2 in Whitworth; ¢ in BSF

0.472 0.500 0.512 0.525

12 mm + in AF 13 mm 4 in Whitworth; 3 in BSF

0.551

14 mm

0.563 0.591

2 in AF 15 mm

0.600 0.625

& in Whitworth; 2 in BSF = in AF

0.630

16 mm

0.669 0.686

17 mm 2 in AF

0.709

18 mm

0.710

2 in Whitworth; % in BSF

0.748

19 mm

0.750 0.813 0.820

3 in AF 8 in AF % in Whitworth; 3 in BSF

0.866

22 mm

0.875 0.920 0.938 0.945 1.000

< in AF 4 in Whitworth; 2 in BSF 8 in AF 24 mm 1 in AF

1.010

& in Whitworth; 3 in BSF

1.024

26 mm

1.063

14, in AF; 27 mm

1.100

3 in Whitworth; 7 in BSF

1.181

30 mm

1.200 1.250 1.260 1.300 Ss

1 in Whitworth; 3 in BSF 1% in AF 32 mm 2 in Whitworth; ~ in BSF 12 in AF

1.390 1.417

#3 in Whitworth; #2 in BSF 36 mm

1.438 1.480 1.500 57o

14 in AF < in Whitworth; 1 in BSF 14 in AF 40 mm; 2 in Whitworth

1.125

14 in AF

1.614

41 mm

1.625 1.670 1.688

12 in AF 1 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF 12 in AF

1.811

46 mm

pos 1.860

18 in AF 14 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF

1.969

50 mm

Another item which may be required, and which has a much more

2.000 2.050

2 in AF 14 in Whitworth; 13 in BSF

(8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as mirrors and reversing lights.

2a OS

55 mm

2.362

60 mm

dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as for lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on, which become necessary.

general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least ¥ in

1.875

12 in AF

Jacking, towing and wheel changing Jacking Use

the jack supplied

with the vehicle

only for wheel

changing

during roadside emergencies (photos). Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed. When raising the vehicle for repair or maintenance, preferably use a trolley jack with a wooden block as an insulator to prevent damage to the underbody. Place the jack below the sill at a point midway between the wheel arch and the vehicle jack engagement point. Never raise the vehicle by jacking up under the engine sump, transmission casing or rear axle. To avoid repetition, the procedure for raising the vehicle in order to carry out work under it is not included before each relevant operation described in this manual. It is to be preferred and is certainly recommended that the vehicle is positioned over an inspection pit or raised on a lift. Where such equipment is not available, use ramps or jack up the vehicle as previously described, but always supplement the lifting device with axle stands.

Refit the wheel by locating it in its original balanced position. Obviously, if the spare wheel is being fitted this cannot be done and is not essential as the wheel will have been balanced off the vehicle. Screw in the roadwheel bolts and then lower the jack. Fully tighten the bolts, refit the bolt caps and the hub cap (photo).

Towing Towing hooks are welded to the front and the rear of the vehicle and should only be used in an emergency, as their designed function

is as lash-down hooks, for use during transportation (photos). When towing vehicles equipped with automatic transmission, restrict the distance towed to 70 miles (100 km) and the towing speed to 50 mph (80 kmh). If these conditions are likely to be exceeded, then the front wheels will have to be raised off the road. When being towed, remember to insert the ignition key and turn it to Position |. Expect to apply greater pressure to the footbrake, as servo assistance will not be available after the first few brake applications.

Sill jacking points

Wheel changing To change a roadwheel, first prise off the hub cap and remove the roadwheel bolt plastic caps (photo). If the car is fairly new, the roadwheels and tyres will have been balanced on the vehicle during production. In order to maintain this balance then the position of the roadwheel in relation to the mounting hub must be marked before removing the wheel.

Release but do not remove each roadwheel bolt (photo) and then raise the vehicle wheel.

with the jack. Remove

the bolts and take off the

Workshop jack lifting points Jack and spare wheel location

A

Front

B-

Rear

jack in use

Front tow ing hook

Rear tow ing hook

Hub cap removal

Tool k

Releasing a wheel nut

Wheel nut plastic cap

Safety first! Professional motor mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job in hand, do take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain elementary precautions.

There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following points do not pretend to be a comprehensive list of all dangers; they are intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts DON'T rely on a single jack when working underneath the vehicle. Always use reliable additional means of support, such as axle stands, securely placed under a part of the vehicle that you know will not give

way. DON'T attempt to loosen or tighten high-torque nuts (e.g. wheel hub nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may be pulled off. DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral (or ‘Park’ where applicable) and the parking brake applied. DON'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system — cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON'T grasp any part of the engine, exhaust or catalytic converter without first ascertaining that it is sufficiently cool to avoid burning

you. DON’T DON'T mouth, DON’T below). DON'T straight DON'T

allow brake syphon toxic or allow them inhale dust

fluid or antifreeze to contact vehicle paintwork. liquids such as fuel, brake fluid or antifreeze by to remain on your skin. — it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos

allow any spilt oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up away, before someone slips on it. use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause

injury. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance. DON'T rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. DON'T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc, and when working under the vehicle. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs —

it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, tie etc) and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO keep your work area tidy — it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get specialist advice. IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Fire Remember at all times that petrol (gasoline) is highly flammable. Never smoke, or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there — a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol (gasoline) vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers — they may give off poisonous vapours. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. If you are fortunate enough

to have the use of an inspection

pit,

never drain or pour petrol, and never run the engine, while the vehicle is standing over it; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light, near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up and when carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water, and never the other way round. Protect against splashes by wearing rubber gloves and goggles. When jump starting a car using a booster battery, for negative earth (ground) vehicles, connect the jump leads in the following sequence: First connect one jump lead between the positive (+) terminals of the two batteries. Then connect the other jump lead first to the negative (—) terminal of the booster battery, and then to a good earthing (ground) point on the vehicle to be started, at least 18 in (45 cm) from the battery if possible. Ensure that hands and jump leads are clear of any moving parts, and that the two vehicles do not touch. Disconnect the leads in the reverse order.

Mains electricity When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc, which works from the mains, always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly earthed (grounded). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the

vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour.

Asbestos

!gnition HT voltage

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. \f in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT leads, when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is fitted, the HT voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Routine

maintenance

For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual The Routine Maintenance instructions listed are basically those recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. They are sometimes supplemented by additional maintenance tasks proven to be necessary. The maintenance intervals recommended are those specified by the manufacturer. They are necessarily something of a compromise, since no two vehicles operate under identical conditions. The DIY mechanic, who does not have labour costs to consider, may wish to shorten the service intervals. Experience will show whether this is necessary. Where the vehicle is used under severe operating conditions (extremes of heat or cold, dusty conditions, or mainly stop-start driving), more frequent oil changes may be desirable. If in doubt consult your dealer.

Weekly

Check engine oi! level (photos). Check operation of all lights, flashers and wipers battery

electrolyte

fuel filter (EFi) exhaust system condition and security of mountings rear wheel bearing adjustment clutch pedal adjustment handbrake adjustment and condition of linkage headlamp beam alignment brake hydraulic fluid (annually, regardless of mileage) coolant antifreeze concentration power steering oil level

Every 27 000 miles (45 000 km) or 18 months, whichever comes first In addition to, or instead of, the work specified in the previous schedules Renew air cleaner element (more frequent renewal may be necessary in dusty conditions)

or before a long journey

Check

Renew Check Check Check Check Check Renew Check Check

level

(photo)

if maintenance-free

battery is not fitted

Check coolant level Check washer fluid level(s) Check tyre pressures (cold), not forgetting the spare (photo)

Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 6 months, whichever comes first

Every 54 000 miles (90 000 km) or 3 years, whichever comes first In addition to, or instead of, the work specified in the previous schedules Renew automatic transmission fluid and filter screen

Every 2 years, regardless of mileage Drain coolant and refill with fresh antifreeze

Renew engine oil and filter (photo)

mixture

Clean or renew distributor contact breaker and lubricate distributor (1.3 before Sept 1982 only) Clean and re-gap or renew spark plugs Lubricate controls, hinges and locks Adjust rear brakes and check lining wear Inspect tyres for damage and wear (photo) Check front disc pads for wear Check dwell angle (contact breaker ignition only) Check ignition timing Check carburettor adjustment Check front wheel alignment Check steering and suspension for wear, and gaiters and bellows for damage Check transmission oil/fluid level (photo) Check drivebelt tension and condition Check brake hydraulic hoses and pipes for damage or corrosion Clean fuel pump filter screen (not EFi)

e eee eee nee eee e e Dennen Every 18000 miles (30 000 km) or 12 months, whichever comes first

0 In addition schedule Renew

ee to, or instead spark plugs

of, the

work

specified in the previous

Engine oil dipstick marking

Checking tyre tread depth

Topping up the manual transmission

15

Se TTT 5

i

.

ei

apne

mae

=

eA| 5

TTT a rr

View of engine compartment (1.8) Wiper motor Heater blower motor Suspension strut Washer fluid reservoir Brake servo/master cylinder QAAwWNH™

6 7 8 9 1O

Throttle housing Air contro/ sensor Air cleaner

Oil filler cap Distributor

11 Cooling system expansion bottle 12 Ignition coil 13 Battery 14 Radiator electric fan 75 Bonnet support strut

16

View from underside of front end (1.8) 7 2

Suspension contro/ arm support Exhaust pipe

3

Suspension contro! arm

4 _ Final drive cover plate

§

Driveshaft inboard joint

6 7

Sump drain plug Flywheel housing cover plate

17

View from underside of rear end (1.8)

Fuel tank Exhaust expansion box Spare wheel recess Fuel level sender unit WOM

y) 6 7 8

Anti-roll bar Fuel filler pipe Rear axle member Suspension trailing arm

9 Fuel filter 10 Electric fuel pump and regulator 11 Towing hook

18

View of engine compartment (1.3) Wiper motor Heater blower motor

Suspension strut turret Air cleaner AAwWY™s Brake servo/master cylinder

Washer fluid reservoir Fuel pump Alternator

Cooling system expansion bottle ~9DOAND O Intake

air temperature valve vacuum unit

171 Oil filler cap 12 Distributor 13

Battery

14 Radiator electric cooling fan 715 Bonnet support strut

19

View from underside of front end (1.3)

Suspension control arm support Exhaust pipe Suspension control arm Final drive cover plate A OH

§

Driveshaft inboard joint

6

Engine/transmission mounting bracket

7

Flywheel housing cover plate

8 Sump 9 Radiator 70 Oil filter

20

View from underside of rear end (1.3) Fuel contents sender unit Fuel tank

Exhaust pipe

4

Rear suspension trailing arm

5 6

Rear axle member Exhaust silencer

On

Fuel tank filler/breather hoses Spare wheel recess

le Recommended Component

1 Engine

2A

Manual transmission

2B Automatic transmission

3 Cooling system 4 Brake hydraulic system

Power assisted steering Note: Lubrication requirements may supplied with the vehicle.

21

lubricants and fluids Lubricant type or specification

Multigrade

engine

oil to GM-6146M,

API-SF/CC

or API-SE/CC,

viscosity range 10W/40 to 20W/50 Gear oil SAE 80 to GM-4753M,

MIL-L-2105 or API-GL3/GL4

Dexron® Il ATF to GM-6137M

Antifreeze to GM1899-M

or GME L6368

Hydraulic fluid to GM4653-M

type 550, SAE J1703F or DOT 4

Dexron® Il ATF (as above) vary according to territory and operating conditions.

If in doubt consult the operator's handbook

Fault diagnosis Introduction The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to the recommended schedules should not have to use this section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle. With any fault finding, the first step is to decide where to begin investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions a little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in curing a fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the wiser if the fault recurs and he may well have spent more time and money than was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period preceding the fault — power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual noises or smells, etc — and remember that failure of components such as fuses or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault. The pages which follow here are intended to help in cases of failure to start or breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault

Diagnosis

Section

at the

end

of each

Chapter

which

should

be

consulted if the preliminary checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault, certain basic principles apply. These are as follows:

Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly important if you are investigating a fault for someone else who may not have described it very accurately.

Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won't start, is there petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the

chemical attack — and the first things to look for are loose or corroded connections

and broken

or chafed wires, especially where the wires

pass through holes in the bodywork or are subject to vibration. All metal-bodied vehicles in current production have one pole of the battery ‘earthed’, ie connected to the vehicle bodywork, and in nearly all modern vehicles it is the negative (—) terminal. The various electrical components — motors, bulb holders etc — are also connected to earth, either by means of a lead or directly by their mountings.

Electric current flows through the component and then back to the battery via the bodywork. If the component mounting is loose or corroded, or if a good path back to the battery is not available, the circuit will be incomplete and malfunction will result. The engine and/or gearbox are also earthed by means of flexible metal straps to the body or subframe; if these straps are loose or missing, starter motor, generator and ignition trouble may result. Assuming the earth return to be satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either to component malfunction or to defects in the current supply. Individual components are dealt with in Chapter 10. If supply wires are broken or cracked internally this results in an open-circuit, and the easiest way to check for this is to bypass the suspect wire

temporarily with a length of wire having a crocodile clip or suitable connector at each end. Alternatively, a 12V test lamp can be used to verify the presence of supply voltage at various points along the wire and the break can be thus isolated. If a bare portion of a live wire touches the bodywork or other earthed metal part, the electricity will take the low-resistance path thus formed back to the battery: this is known as a short-circuit. Hopefully a short-circuit will blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause

burning of the insulation (and possibly further short-circuits) or even a

fire. This is why it is inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing fuses with silver foil or wire.

Spares and tool kit Most vehicles are supplied only with sufficient tools for wheel changing; the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit detailed in Too/s

test gear.

Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn't simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected.

Don't take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a ‘new’ component may itself be defective (especially if it's been rattling round in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you'll probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.

Electrical faults Electrical faults can be more puzzling than straightforward mechanical failures, but they are no less susceptible to logical analysis if the basic principles of operation are understood. Vehicle electrical wiring exists in extremely unfavourable conditions — heat, vibration and

Simple test lamp is useful for tracing electrical faults

23

;

Fault diagnosis and working facilities, with the addition of a hammer, is probably sufficient for those repairs that most motorists would consider attempting at the roadside. In addition a few items which can be fitted without too much trouble in the event of a breakdown should be carried. Experience and available space will modify the list below, but the following may save having to call on professional assistance:

NEGATIVE

Spark plugs, clean and correctly gapped HT lead and plug cap — long enough to reach the plug furthest from the distributor

18 in. MIN

Distributor rotor, condenser and contact breaker points (1.3

before Sept 1982) Drivebelt(s) — emergency type may suffice

DISCHARGED BATTERY

Spare fuses Set of principal light bulbs Tin of radiator sealer and hose bandage Exhaust bandage Roll of insulating tape Length of soft iron wire Length of electrical flex Torch or inspection lamp (can double as test lamp) Battery jump leads Tow-rope Ignition waterproofing aerosol Litre of engine oil Sealed can of hydraulic fluid Emergency windscreen (only required on 1.3 models) Jubilee’ clips Tube of filler paste

BOOSTER BATTERY

POSITIVE

H162949

Jump start lead connections for negative earth vehicles — connect leads in order shown

If spare fuel is carried, a can designed for the purpose should be used to minimise risks of leakage and collision damage. Afirst aid kit

and a warning triangle, whilst not at present compulsory in the UK, are obviously sensible items to carry in addition to the above.

When touring abroad it may be advisable to carry additional spares which, even if you cannot fit them yourself, could save having to wait while parts are obtained. The items below may be worth

considering: Clutch and throttle cables Cylinder head gasket Alternator brushes Fuel pump repair kit Tyre valve core

to advise

One of the motoring organisations will be able availability of fuel etc in foreign countries.

th

on

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nnn SEEEEEE

Engine will not start enn

LEUEEEEEE

Engine fails to turn when starter operated

Flat battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push start) Battery terminals loose or corroded Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose or broken

Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or broken Automatic transmission selector in wrong position, or inhibitor switch faulty

Excessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient choke (cold engine) or

incorrectly

gapped

spark

plugs

(remove,

clean

and

Other ignition system fault (see Chapter 4)

10)

Partially discharged battery (recharge, use jump start) Battery terminals loose or corroded Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose Starter motor internal fault (see Chapter 10)

Starter motor spins without turning engine Starter motor pinion sticking on sleeve Flywheel gear teeth damaged or worn Starter motor mounting bolts loose

Damp or dirty HT leads and distributor cap (crank engine and check for spark) Dirty or incorrectly gapped distributor points (1.3 before Sept 1982) No fuel in tank (check for delivery at carburettor)

regap)

Starter motor turns engine slowly

Flat battery

Engine turns normally but fails to start

Fouled

Ignition/starter switch faulty Major mechanical failure (seizure) Starter or solenoid internal fault (see Chapter

Crank engine and check for a spark. Note use of insulated tool

Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3) Poor compression (see Chapter 1)

leads, or push

Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

Engine fires but will not run Insufficient choke (cold engine) Air leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold

Fuel starvation (see Chapter 3)

Ballast resistor defective, or other ignition fault (see Chapter 4) Ns

Engine cuts out and will not restart

ee

Engine cuts out suddenly — ignition fault Loose or disconnected

LT wires

24

Fault diagnosis

eS

Wet

HT leads or distributor cap (after traversing water splash)

Coil or condenser failure (check for spark) — 1.3 before Sept 1982 Other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Engine misfires before cutting out — fuel fault Fuel tank empty Fuel pump defective or filter blocked (check for delivery) Fuel tank filler vent blocked (suction will be evident on releasing

cap) Carburettor needle valve sticking Carburettor jets blocked (fuel contaminated)

Wire to sender unit earthed Engine overheating

Oil filter clogged or bypass valve defective Oil pressure relief valve defective Oil pick-up strainer clogged Oil pump worn or mountings loose Worn main or big-end bearings Note: Low oj! pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender before condemning the engine.

Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

Engine cuts out — other causes

Engine noises

Serious overheating Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

Pre-ignition (pinking) on acceleration eee

Engine overheats ——— Coolant loss due to internal or external leakage (see Chapter 2) Thermostat defective Low oil level Brakes binding Radiator clogged externally or internally Electric cooling fan not operating correctly Engine waterways clogged Ignition timing incorrect or automatic advance malfunctioning Mixture too weak

Note: Do not add cold water to an overheated engine or damage may result

Incorrect grade of fuel Ignition timing incorrect Distributor faulty or worn Worn or maladjusted carburettor Excessive carbon build-up in engine

Whistling or wheezing noises Leaking vacuum hose Leaking carburettor or manifold gasket Blowing head gasket

Tapping or rattling Worn valve gear Worn timing belt

Broken piston ring (ticking noise)

Knocking or thumping —____—_—_——--_———————

Low engine oil pressure

Gauge reads low or warning light illuminated with engine running Oil level low or incorrect grade Defective gauge or sender unit

Unintentional mechanical contact Worn drivebelt Peripheral component fault (generator, water pump etc) Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under load) Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening under load) Piston slap (most noticeable when cold)

Carrying a few spares can save you a long walk!

Chapter 1 Engine For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual Contents

Camshaft housing and camshaft — dismantling and reassembly ..

6

amishatt toothed (belt — reMmeWealll cscccs-servscsvsssersrcons cacesececasesucascsecanessenres Crankshaft front OleSeal’— TENEWall c.swucessciscsexssaesseniscceesssconssecsnsrececsseas

4 i

Crankshaft neargoil, Seal —TEMEWaAll cexcccxccssvsssesesassscssrosrenssprarcacediascsctsars Cylinder head — dismantling, examination, renovation ALTACE AID OMTI SHINGye nana emcee arcu etcntaemues escbedanssaxtbavascwace -¢uinessexteseNS

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STRAP ROUND -MOTOR MASSEBANDMOTOR Gi ae

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a

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aes

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Fig. 10.72 Wiring diagram (PART 5)

E25, E30 ELo H16

H17

Heating mat, front seat /eft Heating mat, front seat right Fuse, trailer

K25 181184

hs 199

174-

S30

178 K10

Flasher unit,

trailer 186189 196

Indic. lamp,

preheating indicator Indicator lamp, trailer

Relay, preheating

M12

Starter (diesel)

Switch, heating

S46

Switch, heating

S46

Switch, heating

X71

mat, right Socket, trailer

168171

R2

Carburettor preheating

202

R5 R5 S23

Heater plugs Heater plugs

LAO) 176

Switch, rear compartment release

S30

200201

lid

203

Switch, heating

mat, left

mat, left

mat, right

X2

180

Connector

(auxiliary uses) X2

Connector

Y¥3

Solenoid, rear

181

(auxiliary uses)

185

197

203

compartment lid

release

186 191-

196

Y5

Solenoid valve (diesel)

204 WS

241

=

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Fig. 10.73 Wiring diagram (PART 6)

F11 K11_

~K15

Fuse in fuse box Relay, fuel pump

Control unit, injection

2117 207-

K20

Module, ignition

209

L2

Ignit. coil,

213225

L2

primary /gnit. coil, secondary

242244

244 245

M21 P11

Motor, fuel pump Air flow sensor

P12

Temperature

S44

sensor Inertia cut-off switch

21717 235

235 235

Thermo-time switch S51 Y6 _~ Slide, aux. air

235 235

Y710_

Distributor

250

Y11_ Y7 Y15

Hall generator Solenoid valves Cold starting valve

249 235 235

242 $$

30

—#) ig

S25 RTS

Fie

mS

S26

eos

Ne, er Sw GE25 5

i

sls

Fig. 10.74 Wiring diagram (PART 7) FI8

Overload circuit breaker

EAT H19 H19 H23 K6 K6 K7

K24

Fuse, air conditioning Warning buzzer, headlight Warning buzzer, headlight Aerial, radio Relay, air conditioning Relay, air

conditioning Relay, air blower Conditioning Relay, radiator blower

K24 271 K29

Relay, radiator blower Relay, aerial

286 M10

280 283 269

285 286 288 289 298

M15

M26

Motor,

288

R

Resistor, air cond. blower Switch, air cond. blower

cond.

Motor,

M14

radiator Mtr. power

ASE)

window, front left Mtr. power window, front /eft Mtr. power window, front right

273

M15

right aerial

Motor, blower air

M27

M14

Mtr. power window, front

Zoo) 259267

blower

S24

S25 Ao

276

S27 S28

Switch, air conditioning Pressure switch Safety switch, compressor

S29 178 259267 292.

D37 S38

288291

S47

292294 295

Vai

295

Y2

Switch, radiator blower Switch, power window, left front door

300

272275 276-

Switch, power window right front door 278 Contact switch door, head-light switching system 283 Compressor, air cond. Tractive electromagnet, tachometer

295

291

Chapter 11

Suspension

For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual Contents Control arm, balljoint — remewall 2reesccceccsscaseansascecccesecesseccssoucaseenacvedeaseren 7 CONTLOWatiMeDUSMES — TEMEWal) .ccc.ccacsosvessresssenaracsesssesvsssosbsneredtbvessesozeets 6 Control arm support — removal and refitting ........ccsceeeeeceeeeees 8 BAU EMC AINO SISiecrensee caryener ececbar i cnenvscnceerwunesocetesscoseexscancossvanotentanncouochenrets 20 Front anti-roll bar — removal and refitting .........:cccsscssssenseeeeeeseeenees 9 FCA CMIUIE DEAL I—aTEMEOWAN ccceceriace-vcscsesessotssesvencnsnvscossosfignenensvereverececss 3 Front suspension control arm — removal and refitting ..........08 5 4 Front SUSPENSION Strut — OVEFNAUL .........cceccsseseeeeeeseeseeseessesseesteeseeseees 2 Front suspension strut — removal and refitting ......ceccseseescereseees 1 SCHIP ION peste coeraaceseaseeanceaesenenctecstastoueeiseiescdasosteeatsesoesscentemeses GSIIOTAICE

Rear anti-roll bar — removal and refitting .........:ccccscseseseseeeeeeseenees Reat, axle — emOvall a@nG efittinG)c:-.-.ccsccereeccscersessovesresacecss-eressnnsnnssenecs Rear coil spring — removal and refitting .......cccscceeesereeeeeeeeneneees Reatmhubs bearings — aG|UStimeniteessecsssvsren ontteadseenrrrccscnscexncaststtyarvere Rear hub) bearings) — FEM Walllic.tcccaccecscsevercernocccescnnsarevecetenerannccacassasasnsees Rear shock absorber — removal, testing and refitting .........:..00 Rear suspension stub axle — removal and refitting ........ssseeeee RearmwiheelealiGnime nit reregcnrsscceeresn.cosncecoccxncreccscscrdpsnensaeecaesceccesseraeantecee ROaGWMeOlS AM tVlESiecesssenccccecsoczcsusowsvuescusesssvencseeuedoucsd:ecacsmasuesersnene=taes Trailing arm flexible bushes — renewal ........sccsceseseeeeeeseteeseneeseeeeeeees

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L———

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Specifications L———K

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1.9 1.9 2.0 1.8 1.9 2.0

(28) (28) (29) (26) (28) (29)

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upon model

load Rear

Maximum Front

l/a(25) 1.7 (25) 1.8 (26) id (BS) 1.8 (26) 2.0 (29)

D232) 2.1 (30) 22532) 2.0 (29) 2.1 (30) 2.2 (32)

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Fig. 13.39 Wiring diagram for 1983/4 models (continued).

For key see pages 314 and 315

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Fig. 13.39 Wiring diagram for 1983/4 models (continued).

FAHRTRICHTUNG DIRECTION OF TRAVEL

For key see pages 314 and 315

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Fig. 13.39 Wiring diagram for 1983/4 models (continued). For key see pages 314 and 315

2

3

326

Key to Fig. 13.40. Refer to Chapter 10 for explanatory notes

Description RH parking light RH tail light Number plate light LH parking light LH tail light Engine bay light RH main beam LH main beam RH dipped beam LH dipped beam Instrument illumination Automatic transmission selector illumination Luggage area light Passenger area light Glovebox light Cigarette lighter illumination RH reversing light LH reversing light Heated rear window LH front foglight RH front foglight LH spotlight RH spotlight LH rear foglight RH seat heater LH seat heater Symbol illumination

Clock illumination Ashtray illumination Heater control illumination Trip computer illumination RH rear foglight Interior light with delay Fuses in fusebox Fuse (window motors) Fuse (mixture pre-heating) Instrument voltage stabilizer Battery Alternator Radio Horn Direction indicator repeater Oil pressure warning light Braking system warning light Hazard warning repeater No-charge warning light Main beam pilot light RH stop-light LH stop-light RH front direction indicator RH rear direction indicator

Track

241 242 243 236 237 245 252 251 255 254 246 247 293 294 225 230 226 227 210 262 263 269 270 258 370 374 245 301 231 245 408 258 2o77 298 Various

439 136 213 101 nog: 110 304 344 286 222 22h 283 110 253 278 277 288 289

Key

H113 H14 H16 H17 H18 H19 H20 H23

Description LH front direction indicator LH rear direction indicator Preheater light (Diesel) Trailer direction indicator repeater Two-tone horn Headlight warning buzzer Choke warning light Radio (with automatic aerial) Mirror heating pilot light Heated rear window relay

Track 284 285 170 280 345 291 224 S10ns in 383, 392 209, 210

Flasher unit

Spotlight relay Front foglight relay Wiper delay relay Headlamp washer relay Trailer flasher unit Fuel injection control unit Level control relay Ignition module Level control sensor Preheater relay (Diesel) Day running lights relay Electric aerial relay Rear wiper relay Fuel pump relay Heated mirror timer relay Trip computer relay Central locking relay Delay relay (not UK) Stop/start control unit Stop/start relay Mixture preheater relay

281

270, 263, 317 to 324, 280, 181 to 350; 112 to 116, 347 to 170 to 354, 306 to “339 to 177 to 397 to 413 to 361 to 160 to 419 to

271 264 320 325 281 191 351 423 350 173 355 310 341 179 399 415 365 162 427

427, 428 1S6pals7

Ignition timing control (not UK) 144 to 149 Ignition module (not UK) 141, 142, 423 Ignition coil (not 1.3) 113, 174, 142; 143, 423 Ignition coil (1.3 only) 12271237423 Starter motor 106, 107 Windscreen wiper motor 315 to 318 Heater blower motor 203 to 205 Radiator fan motor 202 Windscreen washer pump 314 LH headlight wiper motor 327 to 330 RH headlamp wiper motor 332 to 334 Rear wiper motor 337 to 339 Rear washer pump 342 Starter motor (Diesel) 168, 169 LH front window motor 438 to 440 RH front window motor 442 to 444 LH rear window motor 446 to 448

RH rear window motor

450 to 452

Front passenger door locking motor LH rear door locking motor

364 to 367 364 to 367

327

Key to Fig. 13.40 (continued). Refer to Chapter 10 for explanatory notes Description Track RH rear door locking motor 364 to 367 Fuel pump (for fuel injection) lan Level control compressor 351 Aerial motor 306 to 308 LH mirror motor and heater 378 to 381, 387 to 390 RH mirror motor and heater 394 to 397 Boot/tailgate locking motor 364 to 367 214 Fuel gauge Temperature gauge 215 Clock 302 Fuel gauge sender 214 Temperature sensor 215 Tachometer 27 Airflow meter 197 Temperature sensor 197 412, 413 Ambient temperature sensor Distance sensor 155, 156, 404, 405 Fuel flow meter 406, 407 Carburettor preheating 129 Cigarette lighter 229 Glow plugs (Diesel) 2 ali 3 Mixture preheating (not UK) 136 Instrument illumination dimmer 245 Sloe Automatic choke Ignition/starter switch 106 to 108 241 to 243, 429, 430 Light switch

Key

$30 $31 $32 $37 $38 $39 S40 S41 S44 S46 S47 $50 $52 S60 S66 $68.1 $68.2 $68.3 $73

294

Interior light switch 203 to 208, 253, 254, 287,

Heater blower switch Heated rear window switch Dipswitch Direction indicator switch Horn switch

Reversing light switch Stop-lamp switch

206 209 431 288 344

227 278 314 to 318 340, 341

Windscreen wiper switch Rear wiper switch

Starter inhibitor switch (auto)

107

Brake fluid level switch Handbrake switch Oil pressure switch

220 221 222

293 295 296 DOS 265 to 267 259, 260 2352 202

Luggage area light switch RH door switch (front) LH door switch (front) Glovebox light switch Front foglight switch Rear foglight switch Boot release switch Radiator fan switch

Description Heated seat switch (LH only)

LH door switch (rear) RH door switch (rear) LH front window switch Rear window isolating switch LH rear window switch RH rear window switch Central locking door switch Throttle valve switch Heated seat switch (LH and RH) Door switch (for headlamp buzzer) Choke switch Hazard flasher switch

Track 369, 370 297 298 438 to 441 437 446 to 448 450 to 452 361, 362 197

373, 374 2292 224 281 to 285 Clutch switch 158 Vacuum switch 147 Mirror adjustment switch 377 to 380, 387 to 390 Mirror heating switch 383, 392 Mirror left/right switch 386 to 390 Temperature switch (not UK) Sys Engine temperature switch (not UK) 150 Oil temperature switch (not UK) 150 Distance switch (not UK) LS 2EtOmioo RH front window switch 442 to 445 LH rear window switch (remote) 446 to 449 RH rear window switch (remote) 450 to 453 Clutch switch (stop/start system) 419 Stop/start switch

418, 419

Day running lights transformer Trip computer Clock switch Function switch Reset/adjust switch Trailer socket Auxiliary connector Boot lock release solenoid Headlamp washer solenoid Solenoid valve (Diesel) Auxiliary air valve Fuel injectors Level control solenoid

Ignition distributor (except 1.3) Hall sensor Inductive sensor (1.3) Idle cut-off solenoid Dashpot solenoid (not UK) Ignition distributor (not UK) Ignition distributor (1.3)

355 to 359 405 to 414 412 412 412 Various Various 232 325 174 197 197 349 118 114 to 116, 144, 145 A2U 227429 130 158, 162 148 125, 432

Colour code BL HBL BR

Blue Light blue Brown

GE GR GN

Yellow Grey Green

RT WS SW

Red White Black

LI Vi

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Fig. 13.40 Wiring diagram for 1985 models

(continued).

For key see pages 326 and 327

+31

332

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Fig. 13.40 Wiring diagram for 1985 models (continued). For key see pages 326 and 327

a

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Fig. 13.40 Wiring diagram for 1985 models (continued). For key see pages 326 and 327

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