Haynes Triumph 2000 and 2500 Pl Owners Workshop Manual 0856963364, 9780856963360

“215 pages : Sub-title on cover: Triumph Mk I & II 200. 2500 & 2.5PI; 1963 to 1977, all models 1998cc 2498cc”.

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Haynes Triumph 2000 and 2500 Pl Owners Workshop Manual
 0856963364, 9780856963360

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Triumph 2000 and 2500 Pi Owners Workshop Manual by J H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and P G Strasman

Ce

Models covered:

.

1998 cc 2498 cc -

-

ISBN

©

Saloon Estate Saloon Saloon Saloon

Mk | Mk | and Estate Mk 2 and Estate 2.5 Pl and Estate 2500 PI

Saloon and Estate 2500 TC Saloon and Estate 2500S

0 85696

336 4

Haynes Publishing Group 1977

All rights any form recording in writing

is

reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or-by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD

YEOVIL

SOMERSET

distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320 USA

ENGLAND

“pace ses pansy

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Leyland Cars for the assistance given in the supply

of technical material and illustrations, also to the Champion Sparking Plug Company who supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Lloyds Industries Limited who supply ‘Turtle

Wax’, ‘Dupli-Color Holts’, and other Holts range products. Li fly, thanks go to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual, particularly John Rose who undertook the editorial work and Lee Saunders who planned the layout.of eagh Page.

{ §

Sse eS

-

About this manual

Me. by

=f

Points for the reader

Its aims This manual is written especially for the practical owner who wishes to carry out the maintenance and repair of his car, without recourse to professional garage services. It is written in simple, everyday language so that even the inexperienced handyman can understand, and undertake, the tasks described. Wherever possible, the use of special tools has been avoided, and detailed descriptions of alternative methods included.

[ts arrangement The book is divided into twelve Chapters. into numbered Sections which are headed in zontal lines. Each Section consists of serially It is freely illustrated, especially in those detailed sequence of operations to be carried

Each Chapter is divided bold type between horinumbered paragraphs. parts where there is a out. The illustrations

are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers according to their position in the Chapter eg; Fig. 4.6 is the sixth illustration in Chapter 4. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. If it is necessary to refer to another Chapter the reference will be given in Chapter number and Section number. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as

‘contents’ listed at the front. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person sitting in the driving seat.

The accumulation of good tools normally must take place over a

period of time and this is the one expense the do-it-\

‘self owner

must accept. Cheap tools are never worth having, as they are not. cheap in the long run. They rarely last, often make work more ate cult and may even cause accidental damage which could cost more to put right than the cost of a good tool in the first place. Modern cars have an ever increasing number of electrical systems which must be maintained and therefore the practical owner must also accept that simple electrical test equipment including some instruments will eventually need to be included in the tool collection. Be discreet about borrowing tools for accidents will happen even with the greatest care and the replacement of a lost or damaged tool

can be costly. Do not be offended if refused, the prospective lender might have had an unhappy experience before! ; Where appropriate fault finding instructions are given at the end of Chapters. Accurate diagnosis of trouble depends on a careful and above all systematic approach. Please avoid the attitude ‘if all else

fails - read the handbook’. It is better and almost always quicker to say ‘this could be one of several things, so lets have a look at the Haynes Manual before trying anything’.

Whilst every care is taken to ensure tha#the information in this. manual is correct bearing in mind the changes in design and specifica-~ tion which are a continuous process, even within a model range, no

liability can be accepted by the authors and publishers for any loss. damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions fram thes. information given. \ we

y



Contents Chapter

Section

Page

Introduction Routine maintenance Lubrication chart

1

Engine

4 14 10

Cooling system

Recommended Lubricants Buying spare parts

17.

Decarbonisation

37

21

Reassembly

38

| Replacement

45

21.24 27 33

Fuel system

a 4

a

SNe 5

6

7

Baas:

a

Ignition system

en

Clutch

Gearbox and automatic transmission rx

Propeller shaft

a

dane

52

Thermostat

55

53 53 54

Water pump ~=Anti-freeze ‘Fan belt

55 57 57

Specifications

61

Fuel tank

General description Air cleaners

Exhaust emission control system 62 60 —s— Petrol injection system

Fuel pump Carburettors

ea

‘9 Braking system ae

ee

re

11 Suspension and steering

ee

a

eit

See

eee

62 83 75

Fault diagnosis (2.5 P1) Fault finding chart (2000 models) ule

i

ede

eg

83 83

ee

Specifications General description Contact breaker Condenser TE

85 _— Distributor Ignition timing 86 Sparking plugs and leads 86 ‘Fault finding 87 ee ee eee

Specifications

93

Release bearing and cross shaft

General description

93

Slave cylinder

96

Bleeding Removal and replacement

94 94

Master cylinder Faults

96 97

Specifications General description Removal and refitting

98 99 99

Overdrive - general description Overdrive - removal and replacement Overdrive - dismantling, overhaul and

Dismantling

102

reassembly

Reassembly

106

Removal and replacement

General description Maigttenance

113 114

Fault Diagnosis

119

Fault diagnosis

121.

General description

119

ee

ee

89 89 90 90 eee 95

111 111

Removal and replacement

Universal joints

-

%,

%

Specifications

122

Shafts and hubs

131

General description

123

Stub axle shaft

128

132

Bleeding

140

134

Master cylinder - early type

138

133 148 140

Master cylinder - later type Handbrake Vacuum servo unit

138 142 142

Casing and differential unit

Specifications

123. ue

Disc and drum brakes

Adjustment Fault finding Flexible hoses 10 Electrical system

60 69,72 le

Specifications

“y ae

20 50

Specifications



*. 8 Rear axle

~+Torque wrench settings Fault finding chart

General description Draining, flushing and filling Radiator

ee a ee ee

3

10 4

General description

Removal

;

Page

Specifications Dismantling Examination and renovation

2

Section

ak

Modifications

131

Specifications

149

Control box

General description

152

Windscreen wiper

Battery Dynamo Starter motor - inertia type Starter motor - pre-engaged type

152 Horns 154 Headlight units 157 ~—- Fault finding chart 158

Specifications Fault diagnosis Front suspension Front hubs General description Rear suspension

181 197 183 183 183 189

Wheel alignment Steering wheel Rack and pinion steering gear Power assisted steering

198:-~

Doors

200

Bonnet and boot Bumpers ~=Heater and ventilation system

208 208 209

r

156

;

161 164 164 172

196 192 190 194

i

12 Body and underframe

General description Maintenance Repairs Windscreen

*

198 199,200 200

i

Index

212 - 216

Introduction This is a manual for do-it-yourself minded Triumph 2000 and 2500 owners. It shows how to maintain these cars in first class condition and how to carry out repairs when components become worn or break. Regular and careful maintenance is essential if maximum reliability and minimum wear are to be achieved. The step by step photographs show how to deal with the major components and, in conjunction with the text and exploded illustrations, should make all the work quite clear - even to the novice who has never previously attempted the more complex job. Although Triumphs are hardwearing and robust it is inevitable that their reliability and performance will decrease as they become older.

Repairs and general reconditioning will become necessary if the car is to remain roadworthy. Early models requiring attention are frequently bought by the more impecunious motorist who can least afford the repair prices charged in garages, even though these prices are usually quite fair bearing in mind overheads and the high cost of capital equipment and skilled labou . It is in these circumstances that this manual will prove to be of maximum assistance, as it is the on/y workshop manual written from practical experience especially to help Triumph owners. Manufacturer’s official manuals are usually splendid publications which contain a wealth of technical information. Because they are issued primarily to help the manufacturer’s authorised dealers and distributors they tend to be written in very technical language, and to skip details of certain jobs which are common knowledge to fully

trained garage mechanics. Owner’s Workshop Manuals are different as they are intended primarily to help the owner. They, therefore, go into many of the jobs in great detail with extensive photographic support to ensure everything is properly understood so that the repair is done correctly. Owners who intend to do their own maintenance and repairs should have a reasonably comprehensive tool kit. Some jobs require special tools, but in many instances it is possible to get round their use with

a little care and ingenuity. Throughout this manual ingenious ways of avoiding the use of special equipment and tools are shown. In some cases the proper tool must be used. Where this is the case a description of the tool and its correct use is included.

When a component malfunctions, repairs are becoming more and more a Case of replacing the defective item with an exchange rebuilt unit. This is excellent practice when a component is thoroughly worn out, but it is a waste of good money when overall the component is only half worn, and requires the replacement of but a single small item to effect a complete repair. A further function of this manual is to show the owner how to examine malfunctioning parts; determine what is wrong, and then how to make the repair. Given the time, mechanical do-it-yourself aptitude, and a reasonable collection of tools, this manual will show the ordinary private owner how to maintain and repair his car really economically.

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Leyland garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows: Officially appointed Leyland garages - These are the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and are otherwise not generally available (eg; complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty - non-Leyland components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car's engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the ‘old’ part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops - These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg; oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fanbelts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home.

The engine serial number is stamped on the left-hand side of the cylinder block

Motor factors - Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg; clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals/ shoes and pads etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis - this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers When ordering spare parts it is essential to give full details of your car to the storeman. He will want to know the commission, car, and

engine numbers. When ordering parts for the transmission unit or body it is also necessary to quote the transmission casing and body numbers. The chassis, or commission number, as it is called at the factory, is

stamped on a model identification plate located on the top of the left-

hand front spring turret.

The engine number is stamped on a flat surface on the left-hand side of the engine by the distributor body. The rear axle serial number is stamped on the underside of the hypoid housing. The gearbox serial number

clutch housing.

is stamped on the left-hand side of the

The commission number (chassis number), paint and trim code numbers are stamped on the plate attached to the top of the left-hand front Spring turret

uooles || HIN 0007 UdwnisL

A DACRE Nl Mille Miah

BE

AEA. MAE RR

Mle

CB

. * + % % * * « os % * .

ISI LLP

PAB

AES

EAE

HES

+ *

BBA

A

PB AAO MEA BOM

uooles |} HIN OL 0002 Ydwiniy

Yduiniay SZ Id

HW||

uooles

92e3S9 D1 00SZ YduiNaL

Dimensions Length (Saloon)

2000 Mk 1

2000 Mk 2

2.5 Pl

2500 (P1)

2500 TC&S

173.75 in

182.3 in

173.75 in

173.75 in

183.25 in

(441.5 cm) (Estate)

177.25 in

(450.2 cm) Width (up to 1974)

65.0 in

(165.0 cm) (1974 on)

(462.8 cm) 177.25 in

(450.2 cm) 65.0 in

(165.0 cm)

(441.5 cm) 177.25 in

(450.2 cm) 65.0 in

(165.0 cm)

(441.5 cm) 177.25 in

(450.2 cm) 65.0 in

(165.0 cm)



66.5 in

56.0 in

56.0 in

(465.5 cm) 178.2 in

(452.5 cm) ° 67.5 in

(171.5 cm)



66.5 in

Height (unladen)

56.0 in

56.0 in

Wheelbase

106.0 in

Weight (kerb) - saloon

2576 Ib (1170 kg)

2604 Ib (1186 kg)

2632 Ib (1195 kg)

2671 Ib s (1220 kg)

2718 Ib nets (1235:kg). =»

2772 Ib

2744 Ib

2772 Ib

2805 Ib

28434b

(169.0 cm) (142.0 cm) (269.0 cm)

- estate

(1255 kg)

Capacities Fuel tank (saloon) (estate)

14 gals (63.6 litres) 12% gals

Engine sump Gearbox Gearbox+ overdrive

(58.0 litres) 8 pints (4.55 litres) 2% pints (1.42 litres) 3% pints (2.46 litres)

Auto. trans (without oil cooler)

11.25 pints

(6.40 litres) (with oil cooler)

13.5 pints (7.66 litres)

Rear axle

2 pints (1.1 litres)

Cooling system

13% pints

(7.66 litres)

(142.0 cm) 106.0 in

(269.0 cm)

(1250 kg)

(169.0 cm) (142.0 cm) 106.0 in

(269.0 cm)

(1255 kg)

(142.0 cm) 106.0 in

(269.0 cm)

1275 kg)

67.5%in

(171.5 cm) 56.5 in

(143.3 cm) 106.0 in

(269.0 cm)

*

£4293 kg)

10

Recommended

lubricants

1

Engine

nS

oe

ie

.

ba

ms

He

Castrol GTX

72

Gearbox and overdrive

ne

ee

ss

¥

=

-

Castrol Hypoy

Automatic transmission

_...

2)

=

ee

ake

a

Castrol TOF

3

Rear axle

a

we

Bs

Ba

=

be

Be

Castrol Hypoy

4

Front hub bearings

_...

At

ar

&

hs

.

ss

Castrol LM Grease

5

Clutch and brake systems

...

a

“es

a

Ser

sy

Castrol Girling Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

6

Handbrake cables

_...

A

a

os:

as

a

Castrol LM Grease

7

Power steering ...

=

Se

a

8

Water pump”

-

Re

Be

9

Inner universal joints**

__...

eC

_...

ae

ae

...

=

Ee

ve

Castrol TOF

iS

sh

a

re

Castrol LM Grease

Ee

a

5

ae

Castrol LM Grease

Door locks, bonnet and boot catches, door hinges and throttle linkages, etc, can be lubricated with Castrol Everyman from an oil can. The above are general recommendations only. Different operating conditions require different lubricants. If in doubt, consult the Driver’s Handbook supplied with your car, or your nearest Leyland dealer.

* Where applicable, remove blanking plug and temporarily fit grease nipple. ** Greasing points only provided on certain models.

Tools and working facilities Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical

mechanics should start off with the ‘Maintenance and minor repair’ tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grows, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a ‘Maintenance and minor repair’ tool kit can be built up into

a ‘Repair and overhaul’ tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the ‘Special’ category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use these tools will be put to. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled ‘How to Choose and Use Car Tools’ available from the publishers of this manual.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

Wire brush (smal!) Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the basic list. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the % in square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list. Sockets (or box spanners) to cover various sizes of BSF, AF and metric Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets)

Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench

(for use with sockets)

‘Mole’ wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

Screwdriver - 6 in long x 5/16 in dia. (plain) Screwdriver - 2 in long x 5/16 in square (plain) Screwdriver - 1% in long x % in dia. (crosshead)

Screwdriver - 3 in long x 1/8 in dia. (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters

Pliers - needle nosed

Pliers - circlip (internal and external) Cold chisel - % inch Scriber (this can be made by grinding the end of a broken

hacksaw blade) Combination spanners - various sizes of BSF, AF and metric Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Engine sump/gearbox/rear axle drain plug key (where applicable)

Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake adjuster spanner (where applicable) Brake bleed nipple spanner

Screwdriver - 4 in long x % in dia. (plain)

Scraper (this can be made by flattening and sharpening one end

of a piece of copper pipe) Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Valve grinding tool

Stee/ rule/straight edge Allen keys

Selection of files

Screwdriver - 4 in long x % in dia. (crosshead)

Wire brush (large)

Combination pliers - 6 inch

Axle stands

Hacksaw, junior

Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge

Grease gun (where applicable) Oil can

Fine emery cloth (1 sheet)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs

12

Tools and working facilities

ee

are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or a motorists club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specially for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job withOut the vehicle manufacturers special tools is given. However, some-

times, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case

Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

0.250

% in AF

0.275

7mm

0.312

5/16 in AF

0.315

8 mm

0.340

11/32 in AF/1/8 in Whitworth

Piston ring compressor

0.354

9mm

Balljoint separator Universal hub/earing puller Impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Carburettor flow balancing device (where applicable) Dial gauge

0.375

3/8 in AF

0.393 0.433

10 mm 11 mm

0.437 0.445

7/16 in AF 3/16 in Whitworth/% in BSF

0.472

12 mm

Stroboscopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter

0.500 0.512 0.525

% in AF 13 mm AF Y%. in Whitworth/5/16 in BSF

and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed

you will have to

entrust the work to a franchised garage.

Valve spring compressor

AF AF AF

AF AF

AF

Cylinder compression gauge

0.551

14 mm

Lifting tackle

0.562 0.590 0.600 0.625 0.629 0.669 0.687

9/16 in AF 15 mm AF 5/16 in Whitworth/3/8 in BSF 5/8 in AF 16 mm AF 17 mm AF 11/16 in AF

Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you do not have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around, at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean and serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc., must be carefully stored where they cannot be

damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when the inevitably become marked and their blades from time-to-time. or a file will soon restore items

tools are used. Hammer heads screwdrivers lose the keen edge on A little attention with emery cloth like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be

done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat

workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which soon become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 5/16 in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually

essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and reversing lights.

AF

0.708

18 mm

0.710 0.748 0.750 0.812 0.820

3/8 in Whitworth/7/16 BSF 19 mm AF % in AF 13/16 in AF 7/16 in Whitworth/% in BSF

AF

0.866

22 mm

0.875 0.920 0.937

7/8 in AF % in Whitworth/9/16 in BSF 15/16 in AF

AF

0.944

24 mm

1.000 1.010 1.023 1.062 1.100 1.125 1.181 1.200 1.250

1 in AF 9/16 in Whitworth/5/8 in BSF 26 mm AF 11/16in AF/27 mm AF 5/8 in Whitworth/11/16 in BSF 11/8 in AF 30 mm AF 11/16 in Whitworth/% in BSF 1% in AF

1.259

32 mm

1.300

% in Whitworth/7/8 in BSF

tL31Z

15/16in AF

1.390 1.417 1.437 1.480 1.500 1.574 1.614 1.625 1.670 1.687 1.811 1.812 1.860 1.875

13/16 in Whitworth/15/16 in BSF 36 mm AF 17/16 in AF 7/8 in Whitworth/1 in BSF 1% in AF 40 mm AF/15/16 in Whitworth 41 mm AF 15/8 in AF 1 in Whitworth/1 1/8 in BSF 111/16in AF 46 mm AF 1 13/16in AF 1 1/8 in Whitworth/1% in BSF 17/8 in AF

AF

AF

1.968

50 mm

2.000 1.050

2 in AF 1% in Whitworth/1 3/8 in BSF

AF

2.165 2.362

55 mm 60 mm

AF AF

Jacking and Towing Towing

Jacking

If, due to a mechanical breakdown, it is necessary for your vehicle to be towed, attach the tow rope by passing it through the aperture at

Two jacking points are provided under each body sill on both sides of the vehicle. These are for use with the jack supplied with the vehicle

the back of the bumper bracket. If the vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission, do not exceed a towing distance of 20 miles (32 km) or at a speed greater than 30mph (48 kph). If these conditions cannot be complied with, then disconnect or remove the propeller shaft. It is not recommended that any other vehicle is towed unless an approved towing kit has already been installed for regular caravan or trailer towing purposes.

and should normally only be used for wheel changing in an emergency. When carrying out repairs, jack up the vehicle under the rear axle or front suspension crossmember and then place additional axle stands under the bodyframe sidemembers.

~

Tow rope attachment point

Mey

Jacking point

Routine maintenance Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication - oiling, greasing and so on - has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the items either no longer exist or will last for ever. This is a serious delusion. It follows therefore that the largest initial element of maintenance is visual examination. This may lead to repairs or renewals. In the summary given here the ‘essential for safety’ items are shown in bold type. These must be attended to at the regular frequencies shown in order to avoid the possibility of accidents and loss of life. Other neglect results in unreliability, increased running costs, more rapid wear and more rapid depreciation of the vehicle in general.

Every 250 miles (400 kms) or weekly

Steering Check the tyre pressures. Examine tyres for wear or damage.

Location of brake master cylinder (1) and clutch master cylinder (2)

Is steering smooth and accurate?

Brakes Check reservoir fluid level. Is there any fall off in braking efficiency? Try an emergency stop. Is adjustment necessary?

Lights, wipers and horns Do all bulbs work Are the headlamp Do the wipers and Check windscreen

at the front and rear? beams aligned properly? horns work? washer fluid level.

Engine Check the Check the Check the the plates

engine oil level and top up if required. radiator coolant level and top up if required. battery electrolyte level and top-up to the level of with water as needed.

Every 3,000 miles (5,000 kms) Check tension of drivebelts. Check disc brake pad wear. Check rear drum brake shoe lining wear.

Check level of fluid in clutch master cylinder. Check transmission oil level (manual or automatic). Check differential oil level. Check power steering reservoir fluid level.

Oil sump drain plug

15

Topping up the battery

Drive shaft lubrication point (arrowed). Rubber gaiter folded back

Water pump blanking plug (arrowed)

Crankcase breather valve component parts 7 i Si

4

%) 6

Steering rack and pinion housing blanking plug (arrowed)

Body

Spring Plate Filter Cover plate

Retaining spring

16

Routine maintenance

Rear axle diffezential filler plug Rotate roadwheel position (to even out tyre wear) and at the same time remove flints and examine for cuts and damage also

for tread wear. Inspect all steering and suspension components for wear. Clean and re-gap spark plugs. Inspect all brake lines and hoses for damage or deterioration. Lubricate the parking brake cables. Check the exhaust system for leaks and broken mountings. Check and adjust if necessary the carburettor idle speed, the solenoid idle speed, the ignition timing. Top up carburettor dampers (TC models).

Gearbox filler plug Lubricate the water pump. Renew the air cleaner element. Check propeller shaft and axleshaft coupling bolts. Adjust front hubs. Clean crankcase breather valve.

Clean fuel pump. Grease rack and pinion steering gear.

Every 24,000 miles (38,000 kms)

Lubricate all body moving parts (door hinges, locks etc.). Clean out front hubs and repack with fresh lubricant.

Every 6,000 miles (10,000 kms) Inspect the distributor cap for.cracks. Inspect the distributor contact points and renew if necessary. Renew the spark plugs. Renew the fuel filter.

Renew the engine oil and filter. Lubricate axleshaft joints (certain models only). Lubricate handbrake components.

Renew fuel filter (P! models only).

Every 50,000 miles (80,000 kms) Drain the brake hydraulic system, renew all system seals and refill with fresh fluid.

Every two years

Every 12,000 miles (20,000 kms) Drain and flush the cooling system and refill with ntifréeze

Check and adjust the valve clearances.

solution.

Chapter 1 Engine Contents

Ancillary components - refitting Ancillary components - removal

General description Gudgeon pin - removal

Big-end and main bearings -examination and renovation Cam followers -examination and renovation

Lubrication system = Major operations with the engine in position iinn the vehicle

Camshaft and camshaft bearings - examination and renovation Camshaft - removal Crankcase ventilation system Crankshaft and main bearings - installation

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal Crankshaft - examination and renovation Crankshaft - rear oil seal/housing, engine endplate and flywheel - refitting. us Cylinder bores- gkamination and renovation

Cylinder head - installation Cylinder head,-reassembly Cylinder head - removal Decarbonising

Dismantling the engine-“general Distributor and driveshaft - installation Distributor drive -removal ee Driveplate (auto. trans.) starter ring oe Baininavion and renovation Engine front plate and carshart! - renting Engine - installation Engine reassembly- general : Engine - removal, leaving manual oearbor in position Engine - removal, models fitted with auto. trans. Examination and renovation - eee Fault diagnosis : Final assembly prior to start on First service after major overhaul Flywheel and engine end plate-removal Flywheel Starter ring gear - examination ana renovation

...

Methods of engine ‘removal Oil filter -removal and refitting P Oil pressure relief valve -removal and refitting

Oil pump - examination and renovation Oil pump - refitting Oil pump - removal nee Piston/connecting rod - installation oer Piston and connecting rod - reassembly Pistons and piston rings -examination and renovation Piston rings - refitting Piston rings -removal Rockers and rocker shaft- examination and renovation

Rocker assembly- dismantling ee Rocker gear - reassembly and installation Sump - examination and renovation

removal

a

Sump- refitting ... Timing chain tensioner-‘examination and renovation Timing chain tensioner - removal and refitting

Timing cover, gears and chain - removal Timing gear - refitting Timing gears and chain- examination and renovation Valve clearances - adjustment :

Valve guides - examination and renovation Valve guides - removal Valve - removal aes 26 Valves and valve seats- examination and renovation

Sins rn Specifications &

Triumph 2000 Engine - general Type

Ae

Cooling system

Number of cylinders Firing order Idling speed Bore

jes

Sump, piston, connecting rod and big-end bearings -

4 stroke, overhead valve, side camshaft Water pump, fan and thermostat 6

1-5-3 -6-2-4 (No. 1 at front) 600 - 650 rpm

2.94 in (74.7 mm)

ne

18

Chapter 1/Engine 2.992 in (76 mm)

Stroke Cubic capacity Compression ratio es Compression pressure variation

122 cu in (1998 cc) Up to Sh 5 Ib/in2

0:1-1970to

729.25:1-19740n88:

1

Camshaft Camshaft drive Camshaft journal diameter Diametrical clearance End float ... End thrust

Double 1.8402 0.0026 0.004 -

roller chain - 1.8407 in (46. 741 - 46.754 mm) - 0.0046 in (0.066 - 0.116 mm) 0.008 in (0.102 -0.203 mm) Taken by end plate

Connecting rods and big and little end Sethi Type a

Angular split big-end, fully float small end Shell 1.877 - 1.8775 in (47.675 - 47.688 mm) 0.0086 - 0.0125 in (0.218 -0.317 mm) 0.010, 0.020, 0.030 in (0.254, 0.508, -0.762 mm) 0.8122 -0.8126 in (20.63 - 20.64 mm)

Big-end bearings-“type ies Big-end bearings - internal diameter End float on crankpin Undersizes available Internal diameter of small end bush

Crankshaft and main bearings 2.0005 - 2.001 in (50.81 - 50.83 mm) 1.875 - 1.8755 in (47.625 - 47.638 mm)

Main journal diameter ote Crankpin diameter Crankshaft end thrust End float. * ee Main bearing internal diameter aes Main bearing housing internal diameter

Thrust washers on rear main bearing

0.006 - 0.014 in (0.152 - 0.356 mm) 2.002 - 2.0025 in (50.85 - 50.86 mm) 2.146 - 2.1465 in (54.51 - 54.52 mm) 1.360 - 1.362 in (34.54 -34.59 mm)

Rear journal width Thickness of thrust washers Oversize thrust washers Undersize bearings available

0.091 -0.093 in (2.31 -2.36 mm) 0.096 -0.098 in (2.44 - 2.49 mm) ee! 0.010, -0.020, -0.030, 0.040 in (0.254, 0.508>.

Cylinders cast integral with tae half crankcase Full length

3

0.010 in (0.254mm) 0.030 in (0.762 mm)

te

Cyinitior head “Type Port Grrencements Number of ports -exhaust Number of ports - inlet ...

Cast iron with vertical valves Inlet and exhaust on same side

6 separate 6 separate

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