“215 pages : Sub-title on cover: Triumph Mk I & II 200. 2500 & 2.5PI; 1963 to 1977, all models 1998cc 2498cc”.
184 95 24MB
English Pages 220 Year 1977
Triumph 2000 and 2500 Pi Owners Workshop Manual by J H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers
and P G Strasman
Ce
Models covered:
.
1998 cc 2498 cc -
-
ISBN
©
Saloon Estate Saloon Saloon Saloon
Mk | Mk | and Estate Mk 2 and Estate 2.5 Pl and Estate 2500 PI
Saloon and Estate 2500 TC Saloon and Estate 2500S
0 85696
336 4
Haynes Publishing Group 1977
All rights any form recording in writing
is
reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or-by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission from the copyright holder.
Printed in England
HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD
YEOVIL
SOMERSET
distributed in the USA by
HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320 USA
ENGLAND
“pace ses pansy
Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Leyland Cars for the assistance given in the supply
of technical material and illustrations, also to the Champion Sparking Plug Company who supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Lloyds Industries Limited who supply ‘Turtle
Wax’, ‘Dupli-Color Holts’, and other Holts range products. Li fly, thanks go to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual, particularly John Rose who undertook the editorial work and Lee Saunders who planned the layout.of eagh Page.
{ §
Sse eS
-
About this manual
Me. by
=f
Points for the reader
Its aims This manual is written especially for the practical owner who wishes to carry out the maintenance and repair of his car, without recourse to professional garage services. It is written in simple, everyday language so that even the inexperienced handyman can understand, and undertake, the tasks described. Wherever possible, the use of special tools has been avoided, and detailed descriptions of alternative methods included.
[ts arrangement The book is divided into twelve Chapters. into numbered Sections which are headed in zontal lines. Each Section consists of serially It is freely illustrated, especially in those detailed sequence of operations to be carried
Each Chapter is divided bold type between horinumbered paragraphs. parts where there is a out. The illustrations
are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers according to their position in the Chapter eg; Fig. 4.6 is the sixth illustration in Chapter 4. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. If it is necessary to refer to another Chapter the reference will be given in Chapter number and Section number. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as
‘contents’ listed at the front. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person sitting in the driving seat.
The accumulation of good tools normally must take place over a
period of time and this is the one expense the do-it-\
‘self owner
must accept. Cheap tools are never worth having, as they are not. cheap in the long run. They rarely last, often make work more ate cult and may even cause accidental damage which could cost more to put right than the cost of a good tool in the first place. Modern cars have an ever increasing number of electrical systems which must be maintained and therefore the practical owner must also accept that simple electrical test equipment including some instruments will eventually need to be included in the tool collection. Be discreet about borrowing tools for accidents will happen even with the greatest care and the replacement of a lost or damaged tool
can be costly. Do not be offended if refused, the prospective lender might have had an unhappy experience before! ; Where appropriate fault finding instructions are given at the end of Chapters. Accurate diagnosis of trouble depends on a careful and above all systematic approach. Please avoid the attitude ‘if all else
fails - read the handbook’. It is better and almost always quicker to say ‘this could be one of several things, so lets have a look at the Haynes Manual before trying anything’.
Whilst every care is taken to ensure tha#the information in this. manual is correct bearing in mind the changes in design and specifica-~ tion which are a continuous process, even within a model range, no
liability can be accepted by the authors and publishers for any loss. damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions fram thes. information given. \ we
y
‘
Contents Chapter
Section
Page
Introduction Routine maintenance Lubrication chart
1
Engine
4 14 10
Cooling system
Recommended Lubricants Buying spare parts
17.
Decarbonisation
37
21
Reassembly
38
| Replacement
45
21.24 27 33
Fuel system
a 4
a
SNe 5
6
7
Baas:
a
Ignition system
en
Clutch
Gearbox and automatic transmission rx
Propeller shaft
a
dane
52
Thermostat
55
53 53 54
Water pump ~=Anti-freeze ‘Fan belt
55 57 57
Specifications
61
Fuel tank
General description Air cleaners
Exhaust emission control system 62 60 —s— Petrol injection system
Fuel pump Carburettors
ea
‘9 Braking system ae
ee
re
11 Suspension and steering
ee
a
eit
See
eee
62 83 75
Fault diagnosis (2.5 P1) Fault finding chart (2000 models) ule
i
ede
eg
83 83
ee
Specifications General description Contact breaker Condenser TE
85 _— Distributor Ignition timing 86 Sparking plugs and leads 86 ‘Fault finding 87 ee ee eee
Specifications
93
Release bearing and cross shaft
General description
93
Slave cylinder
96
Bleeding Removal and replacement
94 94
Master cylinder Faults
96 97
Specifications General description Removal and refitting
98 99 99
Overdrive - general description Overdrive - removal and replacement Overdrive - dismantling, overhaul and
Dismantling
102
reassembly
Reassembly
106
Removal and replacement
General description Maigttenance
113 114
Fault Diagnosis
119
Fault diagnosis
121.
General description
119
ee
ee
89 89 90 90 eee 95
111 111
Removal and replacement
Universal joints
-
%,
%
Specifications
122
Shafts and hubs
131
General description
123
Stub axle shaft
128
132
Bleeding
140
134
Master cylinder - early type
138
133 148 140
Master cylinder - later type Handbrake Vacuum servo unit
138 142 142
Casing and differential unit
Specifications
123. ue
Disc and drum brakes
Adjustment Fault finding Flexible hoses 10 Electrical system
60 69,72 le
Specifications
“y ae
20 50
Specifications
—
*. 8 Rear axle
~+Torque wrench settings Fault finding chart
General description Draining, flushing and filling Radiator
ee a ee ee
3
10 4
General description
Removal
;
Page
Specifications Dismantling Examination and renovation
2
Section
ak
Modifications
131
Specifications
149
Control box
General description
152
Windscreen wiper
Battery Dynamo Starter motor - inertia type Starter motor - pre-engaged type
152 Horns 154 Headlight units 157 ~—- Fault finding chart 158
Specifications Fault diagnosis Front suspension Front hubs General description Rear suspension
181 197 183 183 183 189
Wheel alignment Steering wheel Rack and pinion steering gear Power assisted steering
198:-~
Doors
200
Bonnet and boot Bumpers ~=Heater and ventilation system
208 208 209
r
156
;
161 164 164 172
196 192 190 194
i
12 Body and underframe
General description Maintenance Repairs Windscreen
*
198 199,200 200
i
Index
212 - 216
Introduction This is a manual for do-it-yourself minded Triumph 2000 and 2500 owners. It shows how to maintain these cars in first class condition and how to carry out repairs when components become worn or break. Regular and careful maintenance is essential if maximum reliability and minimum wear are to be achieved. The step by step photographs show how to deal with the major components and, in conjunction with the text and exploded illustrations, should make all the work quite clear - even to the novice who has never previously attempted the more complex job. Although Triumphs are hardwearing and robust it is inevitable that their reliability and performance will decrease as they become older.
Repairs and general reconditioning will become necessary if the car is to remain roadworthy. Early models requiring attention are frequently bought by the more impecunious motorist who can least afford the repair prices charged in garages, even though these prices are usually quite fair bearing in mind overheads and the high cost of capital equipment and skilled labou . It is in these circumstances that this manual will prove to be of maximum assistance, as it is the on/y workshop manual written from practical experience especially to help Triumph owners. Manufacturer’s official manuals are usually splendid publications which contain a wealth of technical information. Because they are issued primarily to help the manufacturer’s authorised dealers and distributors they tend to be written in very technical language, and to skip details of certain jobs which are common knowledge to fully
trained garage mechanics. Owner’s Workshop Manuals are different as they are intended primarily to help the owner. They, therefore, go into many of the jobs in great detail with extensive photographic support to ensure everything is properly understood so that the repair is done correctly. Owners who intend to do their own maintenance and repairs should have a reasonably comprehensive tool kit. Some jobs require special tools, but in many instances it is possible to get round their use with
a little care and ingenuity. Throughout this manual ingenious ways of avoiding the use of special equipment and tools are shown. In some cases the proper tool must be used. Where this is the case a description of the tool and its correct use is included.
When a component malfunctions, repairs are becoming more and more a Case of replacing the defective item with an exchange rebuilt unit. This is excellent practice when a component is thoroughly worn out, but it is a waste of good money when overall the component is only half worn, and requires the replacement of but a single small item to effect a complete repair. A further function of this manual is to show the owner how to examine malfunctioning parts; determine what is wrong, and then how to make the repair. Given the time, mechanical do-it-yourself aptitude, and a reasonable collection of tools, this manual will show the ordinary private owner how to maintain and repair his car really economically.
Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Leyland garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows: Officially appointed Leyland garages - These are the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and are otherwise not generally available (eg; complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty - non-Leyland components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car's engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the ‘old’ part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops - These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg; oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fanbelts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home.
The engine serial number is stamped on the left-hand side of the cylinder block
Motor factors - Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg; clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals/ shoes and pads etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis - this can save a considerable amount of money.
Vehicle identification numbers When ordering spare parts it is essential to give full details of your car to the storeman. He will want to know the commission, car, and
engine numbers. When ordering parts for the transmission unit or body it is also necessary to quote the transmission casing and body numbers. The chassis, or commission number, as it is called at the factory, is
stamped on a model identification plate located on the top of the left-
hand front spring turret.
The engine number is stamped on a flat surface on the left-hand side of the engine by the distributor body. The rear axle serial number is stamped on the underside of the hypoid housing. The gearbox serial number
clutch housing.
is stamped on the left-hand side of the
The commission number (chassis number), paint and trim code numbers are stamped on the plate attached to the top of the left-hand front Spring turret
uooles || HIN 0007 UdwnisL
A DACRE Nl Mille Miah
BE
AEA. MAE RR
Mle
CB
. * + % % * * « os % * .
ISI LLP
PAB
AES
EAE
HES
+ *
BBA
A
PB AAO MEA BOM
uooles |} HIN OL 0002 Ydwiniy
Yduiniay SZ Id
HW||
uooles
92e3S9 D1 00SZ YduiNaL
Dimensions Length (Saloon)
2000 Mk 1
2000 Mk 2
2.5 Pl
2500 (P1)
2500 TC&S
173.75 in
182.3 in
173.75 in
173.75 in
183.25 in
(441.5 cm) (Estate)
177.25 in
(450.2 cm) Width (up to 1974)
65.0 in
(165.0 cm) (1974 on)
(462.8 cm) 177.25 in
(450.2 cm) 65.0 in
(165.0 cm)
(441.5 cm) 177.25 in
(450.2 cm) 65.0 in
(165.0 cm)
(441.5 cm) 177.25 in
(450.2 cm) 65.0 in
(165.0 cm)
—
66.5 in
56.0 in
56.0 in
(465.5 cm) 178.2 in
(452.5 cm) ° 67.5 in
(171.5 cm)
—
66.5 in
Height (unladen)
56.0 in
56.0 in
Wheelbase
106.0 in
Weight (kerb) - saloon
2576 Ib (1170 kg)
2604 Ib (1186 kg)
2632 Ib (1195 kg)
2671 Ib s (1220 kg)
2718 Ib nets (1235:kg). =»
2772 Ib
2744 Ib
2772 Ib
2805 Ib
28434b
(169.0 cm) (142.0 cm) (269.0 cm)
- estate
(1255 kg)
Capacities Fuel tank (saloon) (estate)
14 gals (63.6 litres) 12% gals
Engine sump Gearbox Gearbox+ overdrive
(58.0 litres) 8 pints (4.55 litres) 2% pints (1.42 litres) 3% pints (2.46 litres)
Auto. trans (without oil cooler)
11.25 pints
(6.40 litres) (with oil cooler)
13.5 pints (7.66 litres)
Rear axle
2 pints (1.1 litres)
Cooling system
13% pints
(7.66 litres)
(142.0 cm) 106.0 in
(269.0 cm)
(1250 kg)
(169.0 cm) (142.0 cm) 106.0 in
(269.0 cm)
(1255 kg)
(142.0 cm) 106.0 in
(269.0 cm)
1275 kg)
67.5%in
(171.5 cm) 56.5 in
(143.3 cm) 106.0 in
(269.0 cm)
*
£4293 kg)
10
Recommended
lubricants
1
Engine
nS
oe
ie
.
ba
ms
He
Castrol GTX
72
Gearbox and overdrive
ne
ee
ss
¥
=
-
Castrol Hypoy
Automatic transmission
_...
2)
=
ee
ake
a
Castrol TOF
3
Rear axle
a
we
Bs
Ba
=
be
Be
Castrol Hypoy
4
Front hub bearings
_...
At
ar
&
hs
.
ss
Castrol LM Grease
5
Clutch and brake systems
...
a
“es
a
Ser
sy
Castrol Girling Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid
6
Handbrake cables
_...
A
a
os:
as
a
Castrol LM Grease
7
Power steering ...
=
Se
a
8
Water pump”
-
Re
Be
9
Inner universal joints**
__...
eC
_...
ae
ae
...
=
Ee
ve
Castrol TOF
iS
sh
a
re
Castrol LM Grease
Ee
a
5
ae
Castrol LM Grease
Door locks, bonnet and boot catches, door hinges and throttle linkages, etc, can be lubricated with Castrol Everyman from an oil can. The above are general recommendations only. Different operating conditions require different lubricants. If in doubt, consult the Driver’s Handbook supplied with your car, or your nearest Leyland dealer.
* Where applicable, remove blanking plug and temporarily fit grease nipple. ** Greasing points only provided on certain models.
Tools and working facilities Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical
mechanics should start off with the ‘Maintenance and minor repair’ tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grows, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a ‘Maintenance and minor repair’ tool kit can be built up into
a ‘Repair and overhaul’ tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the ‘Special’ category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use these tools will be put to. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled ‘How to Choose and Use Car Tools’ available from the publishers of this manual.
Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.
Wire brush (smal!) Funnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the basic list. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the % in square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list. Sockets (or box spanners) to cover various sizes of BSF, AF and metric Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets)
Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench
(for use with sockets)
‘Mole’ wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber
Screwdriver - 6 in long x 5/16 in dia. (plain) Screwdriver - 2 in long x 5/16 in square (plain) Screwdriver - 1% in long x % in dia. (crosshead)
Screwdriver - 3 in long x 1/8 in dia. (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters
Pliers - needle nosed
Pliers - circlip (internal and external) Cold chisel - % inch Scriber (this can be made by grinding the end of a broken
hacksaw blade) Combination spanners - various sizes of BSF, AF and metric Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Engine sump/gearbox/rear axle drain plug key (where applicable)
Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake adjuster spanner (where applicable) Brake bleed nipple spanner
Screwdriver - 4 in long x % in dia. (plain)
Scraper (this can be made by flattening and sharpening one end
of a piece of copper pipe) Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Valve grinding tool
Stee/ rule/straight edge Allen keys
Selection of files
Screwdriver - 4 in long x % in dia. (crosshead)
Wire brush (large)
Combination pliers - 6 inch
Axle stands
Hacksaw, junior
Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)
Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge
Grease gun (where applicable) Oil can
Fine emery cloth (1 sheet)
Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs
12
Tools and working facilities
ee
are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or a motorists club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specially for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job withOut the vehicle manufacturers special tools is given. However, some-
times, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case
Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.
Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)
Spanner size
0.250
% in AF
0.275
7mm
0.312
5/16 in AF
0.315
8 mm
0.340
11/32 in AF/1/8 in Whitworth
Piston ring compressor
0.354
9mm
Balljoint separator Universal hub/earing puller Impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Carburettor flow balancing device (where applicable) Dial gauge
0.375
3/8 in AF
0.393 0.433
10 mm 11 mm
0.437 0.445
7/16 in AF 3/16 in Whitworth/% in BSF
0.472
12 mm
Stroboscopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter
0.500 0.512 0.525
% in AF 13 mm AF Y%. in Whitworth/5/16 in BSF
and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed
you will have to
entrust the work to a franchised garage.
Valve spring compressor
AF AF AF
AF AF
AF
Cylinder compression gauge
0.551
14 mm
Lifting tackle
0.562 0.590 0.600 0.625 0.629 0.669 0.687
9/16 in AF 15 mm AF 5/16 in Whitworth/3/8 in BSF 5/8 in AF 16 mm AF 17 mm AF 11/16 in AF
Trolley jack Light with extension lead
Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you do not have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around, at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean and serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc., must be carefully stored where they cannot be
damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when the inevitably become marked and their blades from time-to-time. or a file will soon restore items
tools are used. Hammer heads screwdrivers lose the keen edge on A little attention with emery cloth like this to a good serviceable finish.
Working facilities Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be
done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat
workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which soon become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 5/16 in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually
essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and reversing lights.
AF
0.708
18 mm
0.710 0.748 0.750 0.812 0.820
3/8 in Whitworth/7/16 BSF 19 mm AF % in AF 13/16 in AF 7/16 in Whitworth/% in BSF
AF
0.866
22 mm
0.875 0.920 0.937
7/8 in AF % in Whitworth/9/16 in BSF 15/16 in AF
AF
0.944
24 mm
1.000 1.010 1.023 1.062 1.100 1.125 1.181 1.200 1.250
1 in AF 9/16 in Whitworth/5/8 in BSF 26 mm AF 11/16in AF/27 mm AF 5/8 in Whitworth/11/16 in BSF 11/8 in AF 30 mm AF 11/16 in Whitworth/% in BSF 1% in AF
1.259
32 mm
1.300
% in Whitworth/7/8 in BSF
tL31Z
15/16in AF
1.390 1.417 1.437 1.480 1.500 1.574 1.614 1.625 1.670 1.687 1.811 1.812 1.860 1.875
13/16 in Whitworth/15/16 in BSF 36 mm AF 17/16 in AF 7/8 in Whitworth/1 in BSF 1% in AF 40 mm AF/15/16 in Whitworth 41 mm AF 15/8 in AF 1 in Whitworth/1 1/8 in BSF 111/16in AF 46 mm AF 1 13/16in AF 1 1/8 in Whitworth/1% in BSF 17/8 in AF
AF
AF
1.968
50 mm
2.000 1.050
2 in AF 1% in Whitworth/1 3/8 in BSF
AF
2.165 2.362
55 mm 60 mm
AF AF
Jacking and Towing Towing
Jacking
If, due to a mechanical breakdown, it is necessary for your vehicle to be towed, attach the tow rope by passing it through the aperture at
Two jacking points are provided under each body sill on both sides of the vehicle. These are for use with the jack supplied with the vehicle
the back of the bumper bracket. If the vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission, do not exceed a towing distance of 20 miles (32 km) or at a speed greater than 30mph (48 kph). If these conditions cannot be complied with, then disconnect or remove the propeller shaft. It is not recommended that any other vehicle is towed unless an approved towing kit has already been installed for regular caravan or trailer towing purposes.
and should normally only be used for wheel changing in an emergency. When carrying out repairs, jack up the vehicle under the rear axle or front suspension crossmember and then place additional axle stands under the bodyframe sidemembers.
~
Tow rope attachment point
Mey
Jacking point
Routine maintenance Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication - oiling, greasing and so on - has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the items either no longer exist or will last for ever. This is a serious delusion. It follows therefore that the largest initial element of maintenance is visual examination. This may lead to repairs or renewals. In the summary given here the ‘essential for safety’ items are shown in bold type. These must be attended to at the regular frequencies shown in order to avoid the possibility of accidents and loss of life. Other neglect results in unreliability, increased running costs, more rapid wear and more rapid depreciation of the vehicle in general.
Every 250 miles (400 kms) or weekly
Steering Check the tyre pressures. Examine tyres for wear or damage.
Location of brake master cylinder (1) and clutch master cylinder (2)
Is steering smooth and accurate?
Brakes Check reservoir fluid level. Is there any fall off in braking efficiency? Try an emergency stop. Is adjustment necessary?
Lights, wipers and horns Do all bulbs work Are the headlamp Do the wipers and Check windscreen
at the front and rear? beams aligned properly? horns work? washer fluid level.
Engine Check the Check the Check the the plates
engine oil level and top up if required. radiator coolant level and top up if required. battery electrolyte level and top-up to the level of with water as needed.
Every 3,000 miles (5,000 kms) Check tension of drivebelts. Check disc brake pad wear. Check rear drum brake shoe lining wear.
Check level of fluid in clutch master cylinder. Check transmission oil level (manual or automatic). Check differential oil level. Check power steering reservoir fluid level.
Oil sump drain plug
15
Topping up the battery
Drive shaft lubrication point (arrowed). Rubber gaiter folded back
Water pump blanking plug (arrowed)
Crankcase breather valve component parts 7 i Si
4
%) 6
Steering rack and pinion housing blanking plug (arrowed)
Body
Spring Plate Filter Cover plate
Retaining spring
16
Routine maintenance
Rear axle diffezential filler plug Rotate roadwheel position (to even out tyre wear) and at the same time remove flints and examine for cuts and damage also
for tread wear. Inspect all steering and suspension components for wear. Clean and re-gap spark plugs. Inspect all brake lines and hoses for damage or deterioration. Lubricate the parking brake cables. Check the exhaust system for leaks and broken mountings. Check and adjust if necessary the carburettor idle speed, the solenoid idle speed, the ignition timing. Top up carburettor dampers (TC models).
Gearbox filler plug Lubricate the water pump. Renew the air cleaner element. Check propeller shaft and axleshaft coupling bolts. Adjust front hubs. Clean crankcase breather valve.
Clean fuel pump. Grease rack and pinion steering gear.
Every 24,000 miles (38,000 kms)
Lubricate all body moving parts (door hinges, locks etc.). Clean out front hubs and repack with fresh lubricant.
Every 6,000 miles (10,000 kms) Inspect the distributor cap for.cracks. Inspect the distributor contact points and renew if necessary. Renew the spark plugs. Renew the fuel filter.
Renew the engine oil and filter. Lubricate axleshaft joints (certain models only). Lubricate handbrake components.
Renew fuel filter (P! models only).
Every 50,000 miles (80,000 kms) Drain the brake hydraulic system, renew all system seals and refill with fresh fluid.
Every two years
Every 12,000 miles (20,000 kms) Drain and flush the cooling system and refill with ntifréeze
Check and adjust the valve clearances.
solution.
Chapter 1 Engine Contents
Ancillary components - refitting Ancillary components - removal
General description Gudgeon pin - removal
Big-end and main bearings -examination and renovation Cam followers -examination and renovation
Lubrication system = Major operations with the engine in position iinn the vehicle
Camshaft and camshaft bearings - examination and renovation Camshaft - removal Crankcase ventilation system Crankshaft and main bearings - installation
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal Crankshaft - examination and renovation Crankshaft - rear oil seal/housing, engine endplate and flywheel - refitting. us Cylinder bores- gkamination and renovation
Cylinder head - installation Cylinder head,-reassembly Cylinder head - removal Decarbonising
Dismantling the engine-“general Distributor and driveshaft - installation Distributor drive -removal ee Driveplate (auto. trans.) starter ring oe Baininavion and renovation Engine front plate and carshart! - renting Engine - installation Engine reassembly- general : Engine - removal, leaving manual oearbor in position Engine - removal, models fitted with auto. trans. Examination and renovation - eee Fault diagnosis : Final assembly prior to start on First service after major overhaul Flywheel and engine end plate-removal Flywheel Starter ring gear - examination ana renovation
...
Methods of engine ‘removal Oil filter -removal and refitting P Oil pressure relief valve -removal and refitting
Oil pump - examination and renovation Oil pump - refitting Oil pump - removal nee Piston/connecting rod - installation oer Piston and connecting rod - reassembly Pistons and piston rings -examination and renovation Piston rings - refitting Piston rings -removal Rockers and rocker shaft- examination and renovation
Rocker assembly- dismantling ee Rocker gear - reassembly and installation Sump - examination and renovation
removal
a
Sump- refitting ... Timing chain tensioner-‘examination and renovation Timing chain tensioner - removal and refitting
Timing cover, gears and chain - removal Timing gear - refitting Timing gears and chain- examination and renovation Valve clearances - adjustment :
Valve guides - examination and renovation Valve guides - removal Valve - removal aes 26 Valves and valve seats- examination and renovation
Sins rn Specifications &
Triumph 2000 Engine - general Type
Ae
Cooling system
Number of cylinders Firing order Idling speed Bore
jes
Sump, piston, connecting rod and big-end bearings -
4 stroke, overhead valve, side camshaft Water pump, fan and thermostat 6
1-5-3 -6-2-4 (No. 1 at front) 600 - 650 rpm
2.94 in (74.7 mm)
ne
18
Chapter 1/Engine 2.992 in (76 mm)
Stroke Cubic capacity Compression ratio es Compression pressure variation
122 cu in (1998 cc) Up to Sh 5 Ib/in2
0:1-1970to
729.25:1-19740n88:
1
Camshaft Camshaft drive Camshaft journal diameter Diametrical clearance End float ... End thrust
Double 1.8402 0.0026 0.004 -
roller chain - 1.8407 in (46. 741 - 46.754 mm) - 0.0046 in (0.066 - 0.116 mm) 0.008 in (0.102 -0.203 mm) Taken by end plate
Connecting rods and big and little end Sethi Type a
Angular split big-end, fully float small end Shell 1.877 - 1.8775 in (47.675 - 47.688 mm) 0.0086 - 0.0125 in (0.218 -0.317 mm) 0.010, 0.020, 0.030 in (0.254, 0.508, -0.762 mm) 0.8122 -0.8126 in (20.63 - 20.64 mm)
Big-end bearings-“type ies Big-end bearings - internal diameter End float on crankpin Undersizes available Internal diameter of small end bush
Crankshaft and main bearings 2.0005 - 2.001 in (50.81 - 50.83 mm) 1.875 - 1.8755 in (47.625 - 47.638 mm)
Main journal diameter ote Crankpin diameter Crankshaft end thrust End float. * ee Main bearing internal diameter aes Main bearing housing internal diameter
Thrust washers on rear main bearing
0.006 - 0.014 in (0.152 - 0.356 mm) 2.002 - 2.0025 in (50.85 - 50.86 mm) 2.146 - 2.1465 in (54.51 - 54.52 mm) 1.360 - 1.362 in (34.54 -34.59 mm)
Rear journal width Thickness of thrust washers Oversize thrust washers Undersize bearings available
0.091 -0.093 in (2.31 -2.36 mm) 0.096 -0.098 in (2.44 - 2.49 mm) ee! 0.010, -0.020, -0.030, 0.040 in (0.254, 0.508>.
Cylinders cast integral with tae half crankcase Full length
3
0.010 in (0.254mm) 0.030 in (0.762 mm)
te
Cyinitior head “Type Port Grrencements Number of ports -exhaust Number of ports - inlet ...
Cast iron with vertical valves Inlet and exhaust on same side
6 separate 6 separate
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