Haynes Triumph 2000 and 2.5 PI 1963 to 1974 Owners Workshop Manual 0900550309, 9780900550300

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Owner’s Workshop Manual byJ.LS.Maclay and B. LChalmers-Hunt, AMIMI, AMIRTE, AMVBRA Photography byJ. H. Haynes

Models covered 1998 c c

Saloon Mk I Estate Car Mk.l Saloon & Estate Mk.l I

October 1963 to September 1969 October 1965 to September 1969 October 1969 on

2498 c.c.

Saloon & Estate Mk.l Saloon & Estate Mk.ll

October 1968 to September 1969 October 1969 on

SBN 900550 30 9

JJLHaynes and Company Limited Sparkford. Yeovil. Somerset distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC. 9421 WINNETKA AVENUE CHATSWORTH LOS ANGELES CALIFORNIA 91311 USA

«

>

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to the British Ley land Motor Corporationfor the generous assistance given in the supply of technical material and illustrations; to 'Motor'for permission to use the Cutaway illustrations on the cover; and to Champion Ltd, for the sparking plug photographs. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the in¬

formation in this manual is correct, bearing in mind the changes in design and specification, which are a contin¬ uous process, even within a model range, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for any loss, damage or injury caused by any errors or omis¬ sions in the information given.

Photographic Captions & Cross References The book is divided into chapters. Each chapter is divided into numbered sections which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each section consists of serially numbered paragraphs. There are two types of illustration. (1) Figures which are numbered according to Chapter and sequence of occurrence in that chapter and having an individual caption to each figure. (2) Photographs which have a reference number in the bottom left hand corner. All photographs apply to the chapter in which they occur so that the reference figures pinpoint the pertinent section and paragraph numbers.

2

Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. If it is necessary to refer to another chapter the reference will be given in chapter number and section number thus: - Chapter 1/6. If it is considered necessary to refer to a particular paragraph in another chapter the reference is 'Chapter 1/6:5'. Cross references given without use of the word 'Chapter' apply to sections and/or paragraphs in the same chapter, eg, 'see section 8' means also 'in this chapter'. When the left or right hand side of a car is men¬ tioned it is as if one was looking in the forward direction of travel.

Triumph 2. 5 P. I. Saloon Mk II.

Triumph 2000 Saloon Mk I]

Introduction This is a manualfor do-it-yourself minded Triumph 2000 and 2. 5 P. I. owners. It shows how to maintain these cars in first class condition and how to carry out repairs when components become worn or break. Reg¬ ular and careful maintenance is essential if maximum reliability and minimum wear are to be achieved. The step by step photographs show how to deal with the major components and, in conjunction with the text and exploded illustrations, should make all the work quite clear - even to the novice who has never previous¬ ly attempted the more complex job. Although Triumphs are hardwearing and robust it is inevitable that their reliability and performance will decrease as they become older. Repairs and general reconditioning will become necessary if the car is to remain roadworthy. Early models requiring attention are frequently bought by the more impecunious motorist who can least afford the repair prices charged in gar¬ ages, even though these prices are usually quite fair bearing in mind overheads and the high cost of capital equipment and skilled labour. It is in these circumstances that this manual will prove to be of maximum assistance, as it is the ONLY workshop manual written from practical experience es¬ pecially to help Triumph owners.

They, therefore, go into many of the

jobs in great detail with extensive photographic support to ensure everything is properly understood so that the repair is done correctly. Owners who intend to do their own maintenance and repairs should have a reasonably comprehensive tool kit. Some jobs require special tools, but in many in¬ stances it is possible to get round their use with a little care and ingenuity. For example a 3^ inch diameter jubilee clip makes a most efficient and cheap piston ring compressor. Throughout this manual ingenious ways of avoiding the use of special equipment and tools are shown. In some cases the proper tool must be used. Where this is the case a description of the tool and its correct use is included. When a component malfunctions repairs are be¬ coming more and more a case of replacing the defective item with an exchange rebuilt unit. This is excellent practice when a component is thoroughly worn out, but it is a waste of good money when overall the component is only half worn, and requires the replacement of but a single small item to effect a complete repair.

As an

example, a non-functioning dynamo can frequently be

Manufacturer's official manuals are usually splendid publications which contain a wealth of technical inform¬ ation. Because they are issued primarily to help the manufacturer's authorised dealers and distributors they tend to be written in very technical language, and to skip details of certain jobs which are common knowledge to fully trained garage mechanics.

help the owner.

Owner's workshop

manuals are different as they are intended primarily to

repaired quite satisfactorily just by fitting new brushes. A further function of this manual is to show the owner how to examine malfunctioning parts; determine what is wrong, and then how to make the repair. Given the time, mechanical do-it-yourself aptitude, and a reasonable collection of tools, this manual will show the ordinary private owner how to maintain and re¬ pair his car really economically.

Contents Chapter

1.

Engine

Section

Page 4

Section Recommended Lubricants

Page 11 11

Introduction Routine Maintenance Lubrication chart

6 10

Ordering spare parts

Specifications General description Removal Dismantling Examination & renovation

12 15 16 20 30

Decarbonisation Reassembly Replacement Torque wrench settings Fault finding chart

32 34 42 49 50

2.

Cooling system

Specifications General description Draining, flushing & filling Radiator

53 54 54 56

Thermostat Water pump Anti-freeze Fan belt

56 56 58 58

3.

Fuel system, carburatlon & petrol injection

Specifications General description

61 62 62 62 68

Fuel tank Exhaust emission control system Petrol inspection Fault diagnosis (2. 5 P. I.) Fault finding chart (2000 models)

70 74 74 88 90

91 92 92 94

Distributor Ignition timing Sparking plugs & leads Fault finding

94 98 98 100

Air cleaners Fuel pump Carburettors

4.

Ignition system

Specifications General description Contact breaker Condenser

5.

Clutch and actuating mechanism

Specifications General description Bleeding Removal & replacement

103 103 104 104

Release bearing & cross shaft Slave cylinder Master cylinder Faults

106 106 106 108

6.

Gearbox

Specifications General description Removal & refitting Dismantling Reassembly

111 113 113 116 120

Overdrive - general description Overdrive - removal & replacement Overdrive - dismantling, overhaul & reassembly

126 128

General description Driving technique

138 138

Removal & replacement Fault finding

144

7.

Automatic Gearbox

128

146

8.

Propellor shaft & universal joints

Specifications General description

148 148

Propellor shaft Universal joints

148 150

9.

Rear axle

Specifications General description Casing & differential unit

151 152 152

Shafts & hubs Stub axle shaft Modifications

158 161 162

10.

Braking system

Specifications Disc & drum brakes Adjustment Flexible hoses

164 165 165 170

Bleeding Master cylinder Handbrake Vacuum servo unit

172 174 176 176

11.

Electrical system

Specifications General description Battery Dynamo Starter motor

187 189 189 190 194

Control box Windscreen wiper Horns Headlight units Fault finding chart

200 203 206 206 217

Specifications Front suspension Front hubs Rear suspension

220 222 226 228

Front wheel alignment Steering wheel Rack & pinion steering gear Power assisted steering

234 234 234

General description Maintenance Repairs Windscreen

241 241

Doors

244

Bonnet & boot Bumpers

250 250 252

12. Suspension, dampers & steering

13.

Bodywork & underframe

Index

242 244

Heater & ventilation system

236

256

Routine Maintenance The maintenance instructions listed below are bas¬ ically those recommended by the manufacturer. They are supplemented by additional maintenance tasks which, through practical experience, the author recommends should be carried out at the intervals suggested. The additional tasks are indicated by an asterisk and are primarily of a preventive nature in that they will assist in eliminating the unexpected failure of a component due to fair wear and tear. The levels of the engine oil, radiator cooling water, windscreen washer water and battery electrolyte, also the tyre pressures, should be checked weekly, or more frequently if experience dictates this to be necessary. Similarly it is wise to check the level of the fluids in the clutch and brake master cylinder and power assisted steering pump reservoirs at monthly intervals. If not checked at home it is advantageous to use regularly the same garage for this work as they will soon get to know your preference for particular oils and the pressures at which you like to run your tyres.

mis-alignment,

poor wheel balancing, over or under

inflation. If there is any doubt a Triumph garage should be consulted especially where alignment is suspect be¬ cause complicated and expensive equipment is required to carry out the necessary check. Remove any flints or other road matter from the treads. Check the wheel nuts for tightness. 9. Apply grease to the handbrake cable guides and the compensator sector (Fig. 22). * 10. Lubricate with a recommended grade of oil, all hinges, locks, catches and controls to allow them to work freely and to prevent unnecessary wear. 11. Remove the sparking plugs for cleaning and reset the gaps to . 025 inch (. 64 mm). Clean the ceramic in¬ sulators and examine them for cracks or other damage

6,000 miles

likely to cause 'tracking'. 12. Release the spring clips and remove the distributor cap and rotor arm. Apply a few drops of oil in the centre of the cam spindle and on the moving contact breaker pivot. Grease the cam surface very slightly. Apply a few drops of engine oil through the hole in the contact breaker base plate to lubricate the automatic timing control. Remove any excess oil or grease with

Every 6,000 miles (or six months if 6,000 miles is not

a clean rag. 13. Clean and adjust the contact breaker points.

exceeded. 1. Run the engine until it is hot and place a container of at least 8 pints capacity under the drain plug on the left hand side or the right hand side of the engine and allow the oil to drain for at least 10 minutes. Clean the plug and the surrounding area around the plug hole in the sump and replace the plug, tightening it firmly. Clean the oil filler with petrol, refill the sump with 8 pints of a recommended grade of oil and clean off any oil which may have been spilt over the engine or its components. The interval between oil changes should be reduced in very hot or dusty conditions or during cold weather with much slow stop/start driving (Fig. 1 and Fig. 6). 2. Remove and thoroughly wash the filler cap in para¬ ffin. Allow the cap to drainbefore refitting to the engine. DO NOT OIL (Fig. 2). 3. The crankcase breather valve should be removed and washed in paraffin. Allow to dry and refit (Fig. 16 and Fig. 17). 4. Check the valve clearances and adjust, if necessary, as described on page 40 (Fig. 14). 5. Check, and adjust if necessary, the engine slow running. See page 68 for details. 6. Check and adjust the brakes if necessary, as des¬ cribed on page 165. 7. Examine and renew any defective hoses in the brak¬ ing system. Ensure that there is adequate clearance between them and any chassis or other components to eliminate chafing. See page 170 for further details. 8. Examine the tyres and, should wear be apparent, take the appropriate action to correct the cause, e. g.

See

page 92 for details. 14. Remove the bolts attaching the air cleaner assem¬ bly to the carburettor flanges and detach the assembly. Remove the centre bolt from the body, take off the cover plate and lift out the elements. Clean out the body and use a soft brush to remove foreign matter from between the folds of the paper element. Re-assembly is a re¬ versal of the above procedure, ensuring that the slots in the elements and container align with those in the carburettor flanges when the assembled unit is refitted. Any gaskets in poor condition should be renewed, and also the elements if they have deteriorated or become fouled. In very dusty conditions the intervals for car¬ rying out this task may well have to be reduced consid¬ erably (Fig. 7). 15. Check the operation of all electrical equipment, particularly stop/tail lamps, number plate illumination and side lamps. setting.

Adjust, if necessary, the headlamp

16. On engines fitted with Stromberg carburettors un¬ screw the plug from the top of each carburettor and withdraw the plug and damper assembly. Top up the damper chambers with engine oil. The oil level is cor¬ rect when, using the damper as a dipstick, its threaded plug is inch above the dashpots when resistance is felt. Refit the damper and hexagonal plug. On all car¬ burettors apply thin oil to the throttle and choke control linkages (Fig. 8).

\

17.

Check, and if necessary tighten, the attachments

securing the water pump, dynamo and dynamo pulley (Fig. 2. 8 and Fig. 15). 18. With the car standing on level ground, remove the oil level plug on the right hand side of the gearbox. Top

Fig. 1. Location of engine dipstick.

Fig. 2. Oil filler cap.

Fig. 3. RADIATOR FILLER CAP AND WATER BOTTLE No.

Description

1 Filler cap

Fig. 5. IDENTIFICATION OF MASTER CYLINDERS

Fig. 4. Topping up the battery. No.

Description

No.

1 Brake master cylinder

Fig. 7. AIR CLEANER COMPONENT PARTS (T 2000 MODE IB) No.

Description

No.

No.

Description

2 Water bottle

Fig. 6. Oil sump drain plug.

Description

2 Clutch master cylinder

Fig. 8. Topping up carburettor dampers (T2000 models).

Fig. 9. Manual gearbox filler plug (arrowed).

Description

A

Element

D

Centre bolt

B

Top cover

E

Cut away

C

Body

Fig. 10. Rear axle filler plug (arrowed).

Fig. 11. Drive shaft lubrication point (arrowed) (Rubber gaiter fol¬ ded back)

Fig. 12. Rear brake adjuster (arrowed)

Routine Maintenance up if necessary (with a can or dispenser having a flexible nozzle) the gearbox and overdrive with recommended oil until the oil starts to run out of the filler hole. Allow the surplus oil to drain away before cleaning the oil fil¬ ler plug and surrounding area. Refit the plug tightening it firmly (Fig. 9). 19. Check and, if required, top up the automatic trans¬ mission oil level as described on page 140. 20. With the car standing on level ground remove the oil level plug on the left of the rear axle casing. If ne¬ cessary, top up the rear axle with recommended o i 1 (with a can or dispenser having a flexible nozzle) until the oil starts to run out of the filler hole. Allow the surplus oil to drain away before cleaning the oil filler plug and surrounding area. Refit the plug tightening it firmly (Fig. 10). 21. Apply five strokes only of a grease gun to the inner drive shaft nipple (1 to each shaft) (Fig. 11). *22. Remove the carpets or mats and thoroughly vacuum clean the interior of the car. Beat out or vacuum clean the carpets. If the upholstery is soiled apply an uphol¬ stery cleaner with a damp sponge and wipe off with a clean dry cloth.

8.

Renew the sparking plugs setting the gaps at . 025

inch (. 64 mm). 9. On 2. 5 P. I.

models remove the left hand luggage

compartment floor panel (saloon) or rear floor panel and spare wheel (estate). Place a shallow container be¬ low the filter.

Remove the plug and filter inlet pipe to

prevent fuel draining from the tank.

Unscrew the cen¬

tre retaining bolt and lift off the element, glass bowl (saloon only) and lower the casing. Remove the sealing rings in the upper and lower casings and the bolt sealing washer. Fit the new element by reversing the above procedure ensuring that the sealing rings are correctly seated and that all connections are leak proof. 10. Remove the plug on the top of the water pump and fit a screwed nipple. Apply a grease gun giving five strokes only. Remove the nipple and refit 'tlje plug. Over greasing can cause damage (Fig. 20). 11. Remove the plug from the top of the steering unit and fit a screwed grease nipple. Apply the grease gun and give five strokes only. Remove the nipple and refit the plug. Over greasing can cause damage to the bellows (Fig. 21). 12. Examine the front brakes for wear and deterioration. Renew the pads if they are insufficiently thick to ensure safe braking for a further 6,000 miles. Jack up the rear

12,000 miles Every 12,000 miles (or twelve months if 12,000 miles is not exceeded. 1. Carry out the maintenance tasks listed for the 6,000 mile service. 2. Unscrew the securing bolt in the centre of the oil filter, on the left hand side of the engine, remove the container and take out and discard the element. Wash the container in petrol to remove matter trapped by the filter and take out the old rubber sealing ring. Renew and replace the element and sealing ring ensuring that the latter is correctly positioned in its groove in the cy¬ linder block. Do not tighten the bolt more than is ne¬ cessary to effect an oil tight joint. Before starting the engine ensure that the engine sump is filled to the cor¬ rect level with clean oil (Fig. 13). 3. Slacken the pipe clips from the crankcase breather valve and remove the pipes. Remove the nut and bolt retaining the unit to the mounting bracket and remove the valve. Disengage the clip from the valve body and lift out the diaphragm and spring. Clean the components by swilling them in methylated spirits. Ensure that the pipes are clean and serviceable.

Reassembly is the re¬

verse of the dismantling sequence. The oil filler cap should also be removed and renewed if unserviceable (Fig. 17, also Fig. 2). 4. Examine, and if necessary tighten, the front and rear suspension attachments, steering connections, water pump, starter motor, dynamo, dynamo pulley, oil filter and all universal couplings and bolts. 5. Examine the exhaust manifolds, pipes, silencer etc, for deterioration, leakage and damage. 6. Inject a few drops of engine oil through the hole in the rear generator bearing housing (Fig. 15). 7. Unscrew the stirrup nut on top of the fuel pump bowl, swing the stirrup to one side and remove the bowl. Swill out the sediment bowl and wipe it clean.

The stir¬

of the car and remove the road wheels and brake drums. Remove the dust from the drums and clean the backing plates. Examine the brake shoes and renew worn or contaminated shoes. Reassemble and adjust. 13. Check and if necessary adjust the front hubs as described on page 228. If the car is used for competi¬ tion work, or if it is desired, re-pack the front hubs with grease. *14. It is a sound scheme to visit your local main agent and have the underside of the body steam cleaned. This will take about l| hours and cost about £4. All traces of dirt and oil will be removed and the underside can then be inspected carefully for rust, damaged hydraulic pipes, frayed electrical wiring and similar maladies. The car should be greased on completion of this job. *15. At the same time the engine compartment should be cleaned. If steam cleaning facilities are not available then brush on 'Gunk' or a similar cleaner over the whole engine and engine compartment with a stiff paint brush working it well in where there is an accumulation of oil and dirt. Do not paint the ignition system but protect it with oily rags when the ’Gunk’ is washed off; as the Gunk is washed away it will take with it all traces of oil and dirt leaving the engine looking clean and bright.

36,000 miles Every 36, 000 miles (or three years) 1. Carry out the maintenance tasks listed for the 6,000 miles and 12,000 miles service. 2. All seals and flexible hoses throughout the braking system should be removed and renewed, the brake cy¬ linders and pistons should be examined and replaced if wear is found, and brake pipes replaced if any damage is present. Further details on pages 170 and 172. 3.

Drain and refill the manual gearbox and rear axle

rup nut should only be tightened sufficiently to ensure a

with the appropriate grades of oil (page 10). This is recommended so that any minute particles of metal are

fuel tight joint. lever (Fig. 18).

carried away in the old oil so helping to prevent further wear.

8

Prime the carburettors by means of a ,

Description

No.

1 Bowl 2 Centre bolt

No.

Description

3 Element

Fig. 17. CRANKCASE BREATHER VALVE COMPONENT PARTS Description

3 Gasket

2 Cover

4 Filter

Description

No.

No.

Description

Fig. 18. FUEL PUMP (EARLY TYPE) No.

Description

No.

Description

4 Filter

1 Clamp screw

3 Glass sediment bowl

2 Spring

5 Cover plate

2 Stirrup

4 Priming lever

3 Plate

6 Cover plate retaining spring

Fig. 20. Water pump blanking plug (arrowed).

Fig. 21. Steering rack and pinion housing blanking plug (arrowed).

Description

1 Cover retaining bolt

Fig. 22. HANDBRAKE COMPENSATOR AND CABLE GUIDES No.

Description

3 Lubrication hole

1 Body

Fig. 19. FUEL PUMP (LATER TYPE) No.

No.

2 Front and rear fixed mounting

No.

Description

DYNAMO MOUNTING POINTS

Description

1 Adjusting bracket bolt

Fig. 16. Location of crankcase breather valve.

No.

Fig. 15.

Fig. 14. Adjustment of valve rocker clearances.

Pig. 13. OIL FILTER COMPONENT PARTS No.

Description

Fig. 23. HANDBRAKE ADJUSTMENT POINTS AT BRAKE LEVER No.

Description

1 Front cable guide

4 Rear cable

1 Clevis pin

2 Fork

5 Rear cable guide

2 Locknut

3 Compensator

6 Rear cable guide

No.

Description

3 Adjustment nut

Fig. 24. No.

FRONT DISC BRAKE PAD RETAINING PARTS

Description

1 Split pin

No.

Description

2 Tension spring

9

LUBRICATION CHART □

EXPLANATION NEW

FORMULA

CASTROLGTX

I0W-30. A high quality, balanced, multi-grade motor oil with 'liquid

OF

SYMBOLS

CASTROl HYPOY GEAR OIL A

powerful,

extreme

pressure

tungsten', recommended for the

lubricant recommended for the

engine In summer and winter.

gear box and rear axle.

WATER PUMP. Remove blanking plug, screw In grease nipple, and with the grease gun apply CASTROL LM GREASE until It exudes from a pressure release hole In the side of the water pump. Remove the nipple and replace the plug.

ENGINE. Check oil level and. If necessary, replenish with CASTROL GTX to the "high" mark on the dipstick. After the first 1,000 miles, and thereafter every 6,000 miles, drain off the old oil while warm and refill with fresh CASTROL GTX NOTE. Owners are reminded that In the car maker's hand¬ book. more frequent sump draining periods are recommended If the operation of the car Involves:— (IT Frequent stop/start driving. (2) Operation during cold weather, especially when appreciable engine Idling Is Involved. (3) Where much driving Is done under dusty conditions.

CASTROL LM GREASE. A lithium based, high melting point, multi-purpose grease recom¬ mended for the steering unit, water pump and handbrake com¬ pensator and cable guides.

STEERING UNIT. Remove the blanking plug from the top of the steering unit, screw In a grease nipple and with the grease gun apply CASTROL LM GREASE, five strokes only. Remove the nipple and replace the plug.

GEARBOX AND OVERDRIVE. Check level and, If necessary, replenish with CASTROL HYPOY GEAR OIL to the bottom of the filler plug orifice. Allow surplus oil to drain away before refitting the plug and wiping clean. An oil transfer hole between the gearbox and overdrive unit provides a common oil level. Maintenance of the over¬ drive unit Is thus limited to ensuring that the correct oil level Is maintained In the gearbox. Capacity :—2$ pints.

With overdrive, 3 pints. OVERSEAS

Above 0°C. (30°F.) Below 0°C. (30°F.)

CASTROL HYPOY CASTROL HYPOY LIGHT

Capacity:—6 pints (Drain and refill). OVERSEAS Over 30 C. (80JF.) 30°C (80°F.) Down to 0°C. (30°F.) Below 0SC. (30°F.)

CASTROL XL CASTROLITE CASTROL Z

REAR AXLE. Check oil level and, If necessary, replenish with CASTROL HYPOY GEAR OIL. Remove the level plug and refill to the bottom of the filler plug orifice. Allow surplus oil to drain before refitting the plug and wiping dean. Capacity 1—1$ pints. HANDBRAKE COMPENSATOR & CABLE GUIDES. Smear the compensator and cable guides with CASTROL LM GREASE, forcing It Into the guide tubes and cable eracks.

OVERSEAS Above 0°C. (30°F.) Below 0°C. (30°F.)

CASTROL HYPOY CASTROL HYPOY LIGHT

.NNER UN,VERSAL JOINTS (fitted to certain models only)- Apply CASTROL LM GREASE with the grease gun.

I

10

Recommended Lubricants COMPONENT

CORRECT CASTROL PRODUCTS

BP Super Visco-Static 20W-50,

Engine -.carburettor dampers; oil can.

ALTERNATIVE PRODUCTS Duck-

hams Q20-50, EssoUniflo, MobilMobil-

Castrol GTX

o i 1 Super or Mobiloil Special 20W/50, Petrofina Fina Multigrade Motor Oil SAE 20W/50, Regent Havoline Motor Oil 20W50, Shell Super Motor Oil 100

Gearbox and overdrive; rear

BP Gear Oil SAE 90 EP, Duckhams Hy¬ poid 90, Esso Gear Oil GP 90/140, Mobilube GX 90, Petrofina Fina Pontonic MP SAE 90, Regent Multigear Lubricant

Castrol Hypoy

axle.

EP 90, Shell Spirax 90 EP

Front and rear hubs; brake ca¬

BP Energrease L2,

Castrolease LM

Duckhams

LB 10,

Esso Multi-Purpose Grease H, MobilgreaseMP, Petrofina FinaMarsonHTL2,

bles; grease gun.

Regent Marfak All Purpose, Shell Retinax A

Borg Warner Transmission . ..

BP ATF Type 'A' Suffix 'A', Duckhams Nolmatic, Esso Automatic Transmission

Castrol TQ

Fluid, Mobil ATF 200, Fina Purfimatic Regent Texamatic Fluid, Shell DonaxT6

Clutch and brake reservoirs...

Lockheed Super Heavy Duty Brake Fluid

Castrol Girling Crimson (SAE 70R3 Specification)

Ordering Spare Parts Always order genuine British Leyland spare parts from your nearest Triumph dealer or local garage. Authorised dealers carry a comprehensive stock of gen¬ uine parts and can supply most items 'over the countei . When ordering new parts it is essential to give full

The chassis, or commission number as it is called at the factory, is stamped on a model identification plate located on the top of the left hand front spring tur¬ ret. The engine number is stamped on a flat surface on

details of your car to the storeman. He will want to know model and commission numbers, and in the case

the left hand side of the engine by the distributor body. The rear axle serial number is stamped on the

of engine spares, the engine number. Year of manu¬ facture is helpful too. If possible take along the part to

underside of the Hypoid housing. The gearbox serial number is stamped on the left

be replaced. If you want to re-touch the paintwork you can obtain

hand side of the clutch housing. When obtaining new parts remember that many as¬ semblies canbe exchanged. This is very much cheaper

an exact match (providing the original paint has not faded) by quoting the paint code number in conjunction with the model number.

The Commission Number (Chassis Number), paint and trim code numbers are stamped on the plate attached to the top of the left-hand front spring turret.

that buying them outright and throwing away the old part.

the Engine Serial Number is stamped on the left-hand side of the cylinder block.

11

Chapter 1 /Engine Contents Description.

1

Cylinder bores - examination and renovation ...

33

Routine maintenance. Major operations with engine in place.

2

Piston and piston rings - examination and reno¬ vation .

34

Camshaft and camshaft bearing-examinationand renovation.

35

3

Major operations with the engine removed .... Method of engine removal.

4

Engine removal - T2000 models. Engine removal - 2. 5 P. I. models.

6

5

7

Engine removal - models fitted with automatic transmission.

8

Dismantling the engine - general.

9

Removing ancillary engine components

.

10

Cylinder head removal -engine away from the car Cylinder head removal - engine in car - T2000.. Cylinder head removal -engine in car - 2. 5 P. I. Valve - removal. Valve guide - removal.

11 12 13

Rocker assembly - dismantling.

16

Timing cover, gears and chain - removal. Camshaft - removal.

17 18

Distributor drive - removal.

19

20

21 22

Flywheel and engine endplate - removal. Crankshaft and main bearing - removal. Lubrication and crankcase ventilation systems description. Oil filter - removal and replacement.

23 24

Oil pressure relief valve - removal and replace¬ ment .

45

Engine reassembly - general . Crankshaft - replacement.

47

53

Timing gears- chain tensioner cover-replacement Oil pump - replacement .

55

27

Crankshaft rear seal, housing, endplate and fly¬ wheel - replacement. Sump - replacement.

57

Valve and valve spring - reassembly.

58

Rocker shaft and tappet - reassembly. Cylinder head - replacement .

50

Rocker arm/valve - adjustment.

61

Distributor and distributor drive - replacement. Final replacement.

62 m

31

28

32

Specifications Triumph 2000 Mk I

Idling speed. Bore .

12

46

25 26

Crankshaft - examination and renovation.

Number of cylinders Firing order..

44

52

30

...

43

Valve guides - examination and renovation . ... Sump - examination and renovation.

Connecting rod to crankshaft - reassembly. ... Front end plate - reassembly . Camshaft - replacement .

Examination and renovation - general.

Cooling system

39

40 41 42

49

29

Engine - General Type .

36

Piston and connecting rod - assembly. Piston ring - replacement. Piston - replacement.

Oil pump - removal and replacement. Timing chain tensioner - removal and replace¬ ment .

Big end and main bearing - examination and re¬ novation. . ..

38

Tappets - examination and renovation. Flywheel starter ring- examination and renovation Oil pump - examination and renovation . Cylinder head - decarbonization.

14

Gudgeon pin - removal. Piston ring - removal.

37

Timing chain tensioner - examination and reno¬ vation . Rockers and rocker shaft -examinationand reno¬ vation .

15

Sump, piston, connecting rod and big end bearing - removal.

Valves and valve seats - examination and reno¬ vation . Timing gears and chain - examination and reno¬ vation .

4 stroke, overhead valve, side camshaft Water pump, fan and thermostat

6 1-5-3-6-2-4 (No. 1 at front) 600-650 r. p. m. 2. 94 in. (74. 7 mm)

48 50 51

54

50

59

Chapter 1/Engine Stroke .

2. 992 in. (76 mm)

Cubic capacity.

122 cu. in. (1998 cc)

Compression ratio.

8. 5:1 or 9.1:1

Compression pressure variation. Brake horsepower (H. C.). Maximum torque (H. C.).

5 PS1 90 at 5000 rpm (maximum) 117 lb. ft. at 2,900 rpm

Camshaft Camshaft drive

.

Camshaft journal diameter. Diametrical clearance. End float. End thrust

.

Connecting rods and big and little end bearings Type . Big end bearings - Type

.

Big end bearings - internal diameter. End float on crankpin. Undersizes available. Internal diameter of small end bush.

Double roller chain 1. 8402-1. 8407in. (46. 741-46. 754 mm) 0. 0026-0. 0046 in. (0. 066-0. 116 mm) 0. 004-0. 008 in (0. 102-0. 203 mm) Taken by end plate

Angular split big end, fully float small end Shell 1. 877-1. 8775 in. (47. 675-47. 688 mm) 0. 0086-0. 0125 in. (0. 218-0. 317 mm) 0. 010-0. 020, -0. 030 in. (. 254, -. 508, -. 762 mm) 0. 8122-0. 8126 in (20. 63-20. 64 mm)

Crankshaft and main bearings Main journal diameter. Crankpin diameter. Crankshaft end thrust. End float. Main bearing internal diameter. Main bearing housing internal diameter ... Rear journal width. Thickness of thrust washers. Oversize thrust washers . Undersize bearings available..

2. 0005-2/001 in. (50. 81-50. 83 mm) 1. 875-1. 8755 in. (47. 625-47. 638 mm) Thrust washers on rear main bearing 0. 006-0. 014 in. (0. 152-0. 356 mm) 2. 002-2. 0025 in. (50. 85-50. 86 mm) 2. -1. 0. 0.

146 - 2. 1465 in. (54. 51-54. 52 mm) 360-1. 362 in. (34. 54-34. 59 mm) 091-0. 093 in. (2. 31-2. 36 mm) 096-0. 098 in. (2. 44-2. 49 mm)

-. 010, -. 020, -. 030, -. 040 in. (-.254,-.508,-.762,-1.016mm)

Cylinder block TyPe . Water jackets. Oversize bores - first. - maximum.

Cylinders cast integral with top half crankcase Full length 0. 010 in (0. 254 mm) 0. 030 in. (0. 762 mm)

Cylinder head Type

.

Port arrangements. ... Number of ports - exhaust - inlet .

Cast iron with vertical valves Inlet and exhaust on same side 6 separate 6 separate

Gudgeon pin Type

.

Fit in piston. Outer diameter .

Fully floating Light push fit at 68°F (20°C) 0. 8123-0. 8125 (20. 63-20. 64 mm)

Lubrication system Type

.

Oil filter. Sump capacity (from dry).

Pressure and splash.

Wet sump

(drain and refill). Oil pump - Type.

Cartridge 8 pints (9. 7 pints (8. Eccentric

type full flow with by-pass valve 6 vs pints, 4. 6 litres) 4 vs pints, 4. 0 litres) rotor

Normal oil pressure at 2000 rpm.

40-60 PS1 (2. 8-4. 2 Kg 1 cm2)

Pistons Type

.

Number of rings. Clearance in cylinder Top . Bottom.

Aluminium alloy 3. 2 compression, 1 oil control

0. 0035-0. 0039 in. (0. 09-0.1 mm) 0. 0017-0. 0021 in. (0. 045-0. 055 mm)

13

Chapter 1/Engine Width of ring grooves - compression rings - oil control ring ..

0. 0797;0. 0807 in. (2. 204-2. 050 mm)

Piston oversizes available.

+0. 020 in. (+ . 508 mm)

Piston rings Compression rings. Compression ring width. .

0.1573-0.1583 in. (3. 995-4. 023 mm)

.

Parallel-chrome plated 0. 077-0. 0787 in. (1. 956-1. 999 mm) 0. 0019-0. 0035 in. (0. 048-0. 089 mm)

Oil control ring. Oil control ring - width . .

Slotted scraper 0.1553-0. 1563 in. (3. 945-3. 970 mm)

Oil control ring - fitted gap

0. 0007-0. 0027 in. (0. 068-0.178 mm)

Tappets Type . Outside diameter.

Barrel with flat base 0. 7996-0. 8000 in. (20. 29-20. 32 mm)

Rocker gear Diameter of rocker shaft

0. 5607-0. 5612 in. (14. 24-14. 26 mm)

Fitted gap

0. 562-0. 563 in. (14. 27-14. 30 mm)

Bore of rockers . Valves Head diameter - inlet. - exhaust .

1. 301-1. 305 in. (33. 045-33.147 mm) 1. 176-1. 180 in. (29. 87-29. 97 mm)

Stem to guide clearance - inlet. - exhaust .

0. 0. 0. 0.

Valve stem to rocker arm clearance (cold) .

0. 010 in. (0. 25 mm)

Stem diameter - inlet. - exhaust .

Valve guides Length. Outside diameter. Fitted height above head

2. 72 in. (69. 088 mm) 0. 501-0. 502 in. (12. 72-12. 75 mm) 0. 749-0. 751 in. (19. 025-19. 075 mm)

Valve timing Inlet opens ...

180 B. T. D. C. 58° A. B. D. C.

Inlet closes ... Exhaust opens.

58° B. B. D. C. 18° A. T. D. C.

Exhaust closes Valve springs Type . Fitted length - outer ... - inner ... Fitted load - outer.. - inner .

310-0. 311 in. (7. 89-7. 90 mm) 310-0. 315 in. (7. 87-7. 89 mm) 0018-0. 0023 in. (0. 046-0. 058 mm) 0015-0. 0025 in. (0. 038-0. 064 mm)

Double inner and outer spring 1. 386 in. (35. 2 mm) 1.14 in. (28. 956 mm) 27-30 lb (12. 247-13. 608 Kg)

... ...

11-14 lb (4. 990-6. 350 Kg) 1. 61 in. (40. 894 mm)

Free length - outer. ... - inner. ... Number of coils - outer. - inner.

1. 56 in. (39. 624 mm) 71

2. 5 P. I. Mk I and Mk II The engine specifications are identical to the Triumph 2000 except for the differences listed below:Engine - general 3. 74 in. (95 mm) 152 cu in (2498 cc)

Stroke . Cubic capacity . Compression ratio . ... Brake horsepower (H, C.) Maximum torque (H. C.)

9. 5:1 132 at 5,450 rpm. Governed speed 5, 700-5, 900 rpm 153 lb. ft. at 2, 000 rpm

Crankshaft and main bearings Main journal diameter..

14

2. 311-2. 3115 in. (58. 699-58. 712 mm)

End float.

0. 006-0. 008 in. (0.152-0. 203 mm)

Oversize thrust washers

not fitted

.

Chapter 1 /Engine Undersize bearings available

.

Valves Head diameter - inlet. - exhaust

.

Valve timing Inlet opens. ..,

Exhaust closes

..,

1.441-1. 445 in. (36. 6--36. 7 mir) 1. 256-1. 260 in. (31. 9--32. 0 mm)

25° B. T. D. C. 65° A. B. D. C.

Inlet closes. Exhaust opens.

-. 010,-. 020, -. 030 in. (-• 254,-. 508,

65° B. B. D. C. 25° A. T. D. C.

Valve springs Free length - outer

1. 57 in. (39. 878 mm) shaft and skew gear, from a skew gear on the camshaft

1. Description The engines fitted to 2000 and 2. 5 P. I. models are basically similar in design and construction so that

located between the second and third-journals. The oil pump is located in the crankcase and is dri¬

throughout this chapter any deviations will be dealt with

ven by a short shaft from the skew gear on the camshaft. Attached to the end of the crankshaft by four bolts

in the respective sections, whilst full specifications and data for both engines are given at the beginning of this

and one dowel is the flywheel to which is bolted the clutch. Attached to the engine end plate is the gearbox

chapter. The engine is a six cylinder, overhead valve type. It is supported by rubber mountings in the interests of

bell housing.

silence and lack of vibrations. Two valves per cylinder are mounted vertically in the cast iron cylinder head and run in pressed-in valve

2. Routine maintenance

guides. They are operated by rocker arms, push rods and tappets from the camshaft which is located at the base of the cylinder bores in the left hand side of the engine. The correct valve stem to rocker arm pad clearance canbe obtained by the adjusting screws in the ends of the rocker arms. The cylinder head has fnlet and exhaust ports on the right hand side. The cylinder block and upper half of the crankcase are cast together. The bottom half of the crankcase con¬ sists of a pressed steel sump. The pistons are made from anodised aluminium with split skirts. Two compression rings and a slotted oil control ring are fitted. The gudgeon pin is retained in the little end of the connecting rod by circlips. Renewable shell type big end bearings are fitted. At the front of the engine a chain drives the camshaft via the camshaft and crankshaft chain wheels which are enclosed in a pressed steel cover. The chain is tensioned automatically by a spring

1. Once a week, or more frequently if necessary, re¬ move the dipstick and check the engine oil level, which should be at the 'MAX' mark. Top up the oil in the sump with the recommended grade (see Page 10). On no account allow the oil to fall below the 'MIN' mark on the dipstick. 2. Every 6,000 miles run the engine till it is hot, place a container with a capacity of at least 8 pints under the drain plug in the sump, undo and remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain for at least ten min¬ utes.

While the oil is draining, wash the oil filter cap

in petrol, shake dry and refit. DO NOT OIL. 3. Clean the drain plug, ensure the washer is in place, and return the plug to the sump, tightening the plug firmly. Refill the sump with 8 pints of the recommended grade of oil (see page 10 for details). Every 12,000 miles the oil filter element should be renewed as des¬ cribed in the Routine Maintenance Section. 4. In very hot or dusty conditions, in cold weather with much slow stop/start driving, with much use of the choke, or when the engine has covered a very high mileage, it

blade which presses against the non-driving side of the

is beneficial to change the engine oil every 3,000 miles,

chain so avoiding any lash or rattle. The camshaft is supported by bearings bored dir¬

and the filter every. 6, 000 miles.

ectly into the cylinder block.

End float is controlled by

a forked locating plate positioned on the front end plate. The statically and dynamically balanced forged steel

3. Major operations with engine in place The following major operations can be carried out

crankshaft is supported by four renewable thin wall shell main bearings, which are in turn supported by substan¬ tial webs which form part of the crankcase. Crankshaft end float is controlled by semi-circular thrust washers located on each side of the rear main bearing. The centrifugal water pump and radiator cooling fan aredriven, together with the dynamo oralternator, from the crankshaft pulley wheel by a rubber/fabric belt. The

to the engine with it in place in the body frame:1. 2. 3.

Removal and replacement of the cylinder head. Removal and replacement of the sump. Removal and replacement of the big end bearings.

4.

Removal and replacement of the pistons and con¬

distributor is mounted in the middle of the left hand side

necting rods. 5. Removal and replacement of the timing chain and

of the cylinder block and advances and retards the igni¬

gears and the timing cover oil seal.

tion timing by mechanical and vacuum means.

The dis¬

6.

Removal of the camshaft.

tributor is driven at half crankshaft speed by a short

7.

Removal and replacement of the oil pump.

15

Chapter 1 /Engine

4. Major operations with the engine removed

and then replace the plug. 6.

Undo the screws in the centre of the battery termin¬

The following major operations can be carried out with the engine out of the body frame and on the bench or floor: -

al caps (photo) and take the terminal caps off the ter¬ minal posts. Undo the battery carrier wing nuts and lift away the battery.

1. 2.

Removal and replacement of the main bearings. Removal and replacement of the crankshaft.

hose. Also undo the two bottom hose clips and remove the bottom hose. Pull off the overflow pipe from the

3.

Removal and replacement of the flywheel.

7.

Undo the two top hose clips and remove the top

side of the radiator filler neck. 8.

Unscrew the four bolts, two each side of the radi¬

ator (Fig. 2.3,

page 55),

holding the radiator to the

5. Methods of engine removal

front panel and remove together with the plain and spring

There are three methods of removing the engine, but in all cases it has to be withdrawn from below, once

washers. It should be noted that the horn mounting bracket is also retained by one radiator mounting bolt. Tie up the horn out of the way. ' ,

the front suspension has been removed. The first method is to remove the engine once it has been disconnected from the gearbox. The second method is to remove the complete engine and gearbox. The third method is the one to be recommended for all do-it-yourself motorists i. e. to remove the cylinder head, separate the engine from the gearbox and remove the part assembled eng¬ ine. The reason for this recommendation is that due to the size and weight of the engine it is more manageable in this form for removal and refitting using the equip¬ ment that will probably be available to a person outside the motor repair trade. It is important that a hydraulic type garage trolley jack is used in conjunction with two pairs of axle stands so that the car can be raised sufficiently to allow the engine to be withdrawn from underneath whilst the car remains firmly supported. The engine removal procedure for the Triumph 2000 and 2. 5 P. I. differs slightly as different auxiliary components are fitted. The best method of engine removalfor the do-it-yourself motorist is described in the following two sections:-

6. Engine removal - Triumph 2000 models

9. Carefully lift the radiator from the front of the en¬ gine tilting it back slightly to allow the fan blades to clear the matrix so that it is not damaged (photo). 10. Undo the union nut from the petrol input pipe on the fuel pump and quickly plug the end of the pipe with either a inch diameter bolt or a tapered wooden plug, such

\

as a sharpened pencil, to stop petrol running from the petrol tank. 11. Undo the petrol pipe from the pump to the carbur¬ ettor installation at the petrol pump. Disconnect the petrol feed pipe clamp at the front of the engine on the water pump and slip the rubber sleeve connection from the carburettor float chambers. Lift away the pipe from the engine. 12. Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top of the front carburettor and the other end from the side of the dis¬ tributor and remove the pipe from the engine. 13. Disconnect the two flexible hoses from the front of the air cleaner and tie back out of the way. Undo the four bolts holding the air cleaner assembly to the car¬ burettor installation (photo).

Lift away the bolts and

spring washers followed by the air cleaner assembly. There are gaskets placed between the air cleaner and carburettor mounting flanges. These should be care¬ fully removed. 14.

Release the choke control cable from the rear car¬

1. Practical experience has proved that the engine can be removed easily in about 5| hours (less with experi¬ ence) by adhering to the following sequence of opera¬ tions:-

burettor and the throttle control rod from the bell crank lever situated behind the front carburettor.

2.

burettors and put in a safe place.

Open the bonnet and prop it open.

Using a pencil,

mark the position of the hinges relative to the front panel to assist correct refitting of the hinges. With the assist¬ ance of a second person take the weight of the bonnet and undo the three retaining bolts to each hinge. Remove the bolts, spring and plain washers and carefully lift the bonnet away from the car and place somewhere safe where it will not be scratched or damaged. 3. Place some old blankets over the rings and the front of the car so that the paintwork is not damaged. 4.

Remove the radiator filler cap and put in a safe

place. Move the heater controls to the extreme left hand setting and open the drain taps found at the bottom of the radiator and on the rear right hand side of the cy¬ linder block.

N. B.

Do not drain the water in your gar¬

age or the place where you will remove the engine unless receptacles are at hand to catch the water. 5.

Place a container able to hold 8 pints of oil under

the engine drain plug on the sump and undo the drain plug. Allow the oil to drain out for at least ten minutes

16

15. Undo the four nuts that hold the two carburettors to the induction manifold and carefully lift away the car¬ Do not forget the two

gaskets placed between the carburettors and induction manifold. 16. Undo the heater pipes from their respective connec¬ tions at the rear of the cylinder head making a note of their locations for correct refitting (photo). 17. Remove the vacuum servo pipe from the induction manifold or the air intake manifold. 18.

Unscrew the three nuts securing the exhaust down-

pipe flange to the exhaust manifold. and lift away the old gasket.

Separate the joint

19. Pull the small wire by its tag from the Lucas con¬ nector on the side of the distributor. 20.

Then undo the terminal in the centre of the coil to

free the H. T.

lead to the distributor.

Mark the spark

plug leads to ensure correct refitting and remove the leads from the spark plugs. 21.

Spring back the two clips holding the distributor

cap in position and lift away the distributor cap and rotor arm.

15

16

17

No. Description 1 Back plate 2 Rear oil seal and housing 3 Rear oil seal housing gasket 4 Relief Valve 5 Main bearing cap

Fig. 1.1. CYLINDER BLOCK COMPONENTS No. Description No. Description 6 Oil pump body 11 Front sealing block 7 Sump gasket 12 Gasket (later models only) 8 Sump 13 Front plate 9 Bearing shells 14 Timing case oil seal 10 Front sealing block wedge 15 Timing case

No. Description 16 Timing case gasket 17 Timing chain tensioner 18 Front plate gasket 19 Cylinder block

17

Chapter 1/Engine 22.

Unscrew the six bolts between the induction and ex¬

haust manifold and lift away the bolts and special secur¬ ing clamps (photo). Undo the four remaining nuts and lift away the manifolds, followed by the gasket. 23.

Disconnect the connector from the water tempera¬

should be placed on the frame outriggers at the rear of the front wheel arches as shown in the photograph. move the road wheels. 39.

Re¬

From the underside of the car release the front and

ture sender unit situated beneath the thermostat elbow.

intermediate exhausc pipes from their mountings. move these parts of the exhaust system.

24. Slacken the dynamo or alternator securing bolts and move towards the cylinder head. Remove the fan belt.

40. Extract the clutch slave cylinder pushrod clevis pin and lift away the washer and clevis (9), Fig. 1. 3.

Disconnect the cables from the rear of the dynamo or alternator.

41.

25. Remove the dynamo or alternator securing bolts and lift away the unit from the side of the engine (photo). 26. Disconnect the by-pass hose from the side of the thermostat housing and when a heater is fitted undo the heater return pipe union at the rear of the pump body. 27. Refer to Fig. 2. 6, page 57, and remove the three water pump retaining bolts. It will be noted that the top right bolt also acts as a mounting for the adjusting brac¬ ket for the dynamo or alternator. Observe also that all three bolts are of different lengths and it is important that they are replaced in their original positions. 28. Lift away the water pump from the front face of the cylinder head followed by the gasket. 29. Undo the three rocker cover nuts (photo) and lift off the cover together with its gasket. 30. Using a socket wrench undo the six rocker pedestal nuts half a turn at a time until all the nuts are free to turn with the fingers. Carefully lift away the valve roc¬ ker assembly (photo). 31. Undo the fourteen cylinder head nuts half a turn at a time in the reverse order to that shown in Fig. 1. 2. When all the nuts are no longer under tension they may be screwed off the cylinder head one tur.i at at time. 32. Remove the pushrods, keeping them in the relative order in which they were removed. The easiest way to do this is to push them through a sheet of thick paper or thin card in the correct sequence. 33. The cylinder head can now be removed by lifting up¬ wards. If the head is jammed, try to rock it to break the seal. Under no circumstances try to prise it apart from the block with a screwdriver o r cold chisel as damage maybe done to the faces of the cylinder head or block. If the head will not readily free, turn the engine over using a spanner on the front crankshaft damper re¬ taining bolt as the compression in the cylinder will often break the cylinder head joint. If this fails to work, strike the head sharply with a plastic headed hammer,

Re¬

Undo the clutch slave cylinder mounting bracket re¬

taining nuts and bolts (1) from the rear engine backplate. 42. Separate the pushrod (7) from the slave cylinder (6) and using a piece of string tie the slave cylinder back out of the way. 43. Unscrew the four bolts holding the fan to the crank¬ shaft damper and lift away the bolts and the fan. 44. Disconnect both front brake metal pipes from the fourway connector located under the battery carrier. 45. Unhook the brake pipe retaining clip situated by the rack and pinion steering box (see photo 63:30 on page 46). 46.

Disconnect the right hand brake line connection

from the flexible hose at the connection located on a bracket by the lower suspension arm bump rubber (photo). 47. Undo the pinch bolt holding the rubber coupling to the steering column. If power assisted steering is fitted drain the system and remove the pump as instructed in Chapter 12. Disconnect the two pipes from the under¬ side of the pinion housing. 48. Place a trolley jack under the centre of the front suspension cross member to take the weight of the unit (photo). 49. The cross member is held in position by eight nuts and bolts. Four to each main frame member. Slacken the bolts but do not remove completely at this stage. 50. Undo the pinch bolt holding the steering lower uni¬ versal coupling to the pinion shaft. Note the metal packing pieces on each side of the main chassis member where the cross member is attached. 51.

Note the position of the bolt head of the stay attach¬

ment to the suspension arm, to ensure that it is refitted the correct way round, and remove the nut and bolt. 52. Undo the three nuts holding the top of each suspen¬ sion member to the suspension strut housing. Lift away the nuts and washers, making a note of the position of the battery earth cable. 53.

Remove the previously slackened suspension cross

or with a wooden hammer, or with a metal hammer with

member retaining bolts and lift away the nuts, washers, bolts and packing pieces.

an interposed piece of wood to cushion the blows. Under no circumstances hit the head directly with a metal

54. With the assistance of two helpers pull the suspen¬

hammer as this may cause the metal casting to fracture. Several sharp taps with the hammer, at the same time pulling upwards, should free the head. and place to one side (photo).

Lift the head off

34. Place pieces of rag in the cylinder bores and also cover the top of the block with a rag to stop any dirt en¬ tering the engine whilst the engine is being removed. 35. Release the heavy duty cable from the rear of the starter motor. Note that this cable is clipped to the chassis (photo). 36. Undo the two starter motor retaining bolts and lift away from the side of the engine. 37. Disconnect the power unit earth lead from the power unit and also the cable from the oil pressure switch. 38. At this point it is recommended that the front of the car be raised and placed on axle stands.

18

The stands

sion unit forwards slightly and carefully lower to the floor. Lift the suspension unit from the jack (photo). 55.

Using an overhead hoist and either a substantial

rope sling placed around the front half of the engine or chains and brackets mounted to the 2nd and 6th studs on the top of the cylinder block, take the weight of the en¬ gine from its mountings.

If an overhead hoist is not

available a block of wood placed on the saddle of a garaSe hydraulic jack and carefully position under the en¬ gine sump may be used, but additional help must be ob¬ tained to stop the engine rolling off in subsequent oper¬ ations. 56. Position a trolley jack or stands under the gearbox cross member and take the weight of the unit. 57.

Undo the two nuts and bolts that hold the right hand

engine mounting to the engine crossmember, followed by the two nuts and bolts that hold the left hand engine

Fig. 1. 2. Cylinder head nut tightening sequence.

Fig. 1.3. CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER ASSEMBLY 1 Bracket retaining nut and 5 Hydraulic flexible hose connec bolt tion 2 Bracket 6 Slave cylinder 3 Slave cylinder mounting 7 Push rod nut and bolt 8 Clevis pin 4 Bleed nipple

19

Chapter 1 /Engine mounting to the engine cross member. 58. Undo the six nuts and bolts securing the engine cross member to the two front main body members.

8. Engine removal - models fitted with automatic transmission

Note that It is recommended that if a car fitted with automatic

the heads of the bolts are above the front main body members as shown in Fig. 1. 4.

transmission is to have the engine removed the best

59. The engine earthing cable is attached to the inner left hand rear engine cross member bolt.

method of approach, if garage equipment is limited, is to remove the automatic transmission first as described in Chapter 7, followed by the engine removal procedure

60. Liftaway the engine cross member from the under¬ side of the car.

as detailed in Section 6 or 7 of this chapter.

The reason

Slacken the four nuts securing the gearbox rear

for this recommendation is that when an automatic

mounting shown in Fig. 1. 5, but do not remove. This will allow slight movement of the gearbox during the

transmission unit is to be separated or re-connected

61.

following operations. 62. Remove the nuts, bolts and washers which secure the gearbox to the engine backplate. 63. The engine should now be raised again to its normal mounted position and moved forwards so disengaging its connection to the gearbox. At this stage check carefully that no cables, pipes or other connections have been left attached to the engine. If all is well gradually lower the engine through the engine compartment until it is at ground level (photo). Should a garage hydraulic jack be used to take the weight of the engine due to non-availability of an overhead hoist, great care must be taken otherwise if the engine rolls off the jack saddle serious damage or injury could result.

7. Engine removal - 2. 5 P. I. models

1. Follow the instructions in Section 6, showing how to remove the engine, up to the end of paragraph 9. 2. Disconnect the fuel feed pipe and spill pipe from the petrol injection fuel metering unit. These are as shown in Fig. 3.26, page 83. The end of the fuel feed pipe should be plugged using a piece of tapered wood or a pencil, to stop petrol running from the fuel tank.

during replacement it is easier to mate to the engine with the engine in place rather than to try to mate the engine to the transmission within the confines of the underside of the car body.

9. Dismantling the engine - general 1. It is best to mount the engine on a dismantling stand, but if one is not available, then stand the engine on a strong bench so as to be at a comfortable working height. Failing this, the engine can be stripped down on the floor. 2.

During the dismantling process the greatest care

should be taken to keep the exposed parts free from dirt. As an aid to achieving this, it is a sound scheme to thoroughly clean down the outside of the engine, removing all traces of oil and congealed dirt. 3. Use paraffin or a good grease solvent such as 'Gunk'. The latter compound will make the job much easier, as, after the solvent has been applied and allowed to stand for a time, a vigorous jet of water will wash off all the solvent and the grease and filth. If the dirt is thick and deeply embedded, work the solvent into it with a stiff brush. 4. Finally wipe down the exterior of the engine with a rag and only then, when it is quite clean, should the dismantling process begin. As the engine is stripped, clean each part in a bath of paraffin or petrol.

3. Disconnect the cold start cable from the metering unit (see Fig. 3.34, page85). 4. Undo the air manifold air filter retaining clip at the manifold. Ease the filter unit from the manifold so as

5. Never immerse parts with oilways in paraffin, i. e. the crankshaft, but to clean, wipe down carefully with a petrol dampened rag. Oilways can be cleaned out with

to allow access to the flexible air inlet hose, disconnect the hose from the air filter and lift away the filter (Fig. 3.29, page84).

pipe cleaners. If an air line is present all parts can be blown dry and the oilways blown through as an added precaution.

5. Disconnect the two small bore rubber hoses from the air manifold and slacken the two outer air intake rubber hose clips. 6. Remove the two nuts and bolts which secure the air manifold to its mounting bracket. Lift away the air manifold and six air intake rubber hoses.

6. Re-use of old engine gaskets is a false economy and can give rise to oil and water leaks, if nothing worse. To avoid the possibility of trouble after the engine has been reassembled always use new gaskets throughout. 7. Do not throw the old gaskets away as it sometimes

Undo the air manifold mounting bracket retaining

happens that an immediate replacement cannot be found and the old gasket is then very useful as a template.

nuts situated on studs on the side of the cylinder block. Lift away the bracket.

Hang up the old gaskets, as they are removed, on a suitable hook or nail.

7.

8.

Disconnect the cold start cam return spring and also

the cold start and accelerator cables at the butterfly control. 9.

8.

To strip the engine it is best to work from the top

down.

The sump provides a firm base on which the en¬

gine can be supported in an upright position.

When the

Undo the centre and rear rocker cover nuts and lift

stage where the sump must be removed is reached, the

the pipes and cold start cable to the metering unit from Dis¬

engine can be turned on its side and all other work car¬ ried out with it in this position.

Continue to follow the instructions in Section 6 from

9. Wherever possible, replace nuts, bolts and washers finger tight from where they were removed. This helps

the studs. Replace the nuts but do not tighten. connect the injector pipes at the injectors. 10.

the beginning of paragraph 24 to the end of the section on engine removal.

20

avoid later loss and muddle. If they cannot be replaced then lay them out in such a fashion that it is clear from

Fig. 1.4. Engine crossmember (nyloc nuts arrowed)

Fig. 1. 5. GEARBOX CROSSMEMBER No. Description No. Description 12 Exhaust pipe mounting 10 Propeller shaft universal 13 Crossmember mounting com¬ joint flange ponents 11 Exhaust pipe clip

Fig. 1. 6. CYLINDER HEAD No. Description 1 Gasket - rocker cover 2 Rocker cover 3 Fibre washer 4 Plain washer 5 Nyloc nut 6 Oil filler cap 7 Stud - rocker pedestal 8 Stud - rocker cover 9 Rocker shaft 10 Valve guides 11 Gasket - cylinder head 12 Cam-follower 13 Push rods 14 Valve - exhaust 15 Valve - inlet 16 Seats - valve springs 17 Spring - exhaust valve 18 Upper spring seat - exhaust valve

AND VALVE ROCKER GEAR No. Description 19 Valve cap - exhaust valve 20 Valve cotters 21 Valve cap - inlet valve 22 Valve spring - inlet 23 Rocker pedestal - outer 24 Cotter pin 25 End plug - rocker shaft 26 Rocker 27 Double spring washer - end roc¬ ker pedestal 28 Rocker 29 Nut 30 Washer 31 Spring - rocker shaft 32 Rocker pedestal - intermedi¬ ate 33 Tappet adjuster 34 Lock nut - tappet adjuster

21

Chapter 1/Engine where they came.

17. Checkthat all the items listed in paragraph 1 of this section have been removed.

The engine is now stripped

and ready for major dismantling to begin. 10.

Removing ancillary engine components

1. Before basic engine dismantling begins the engine should be stripped of all its ancillary components. These items should also be removed if a factory exchange re¬ conditioned unit is being purchased. The items comprise:Dynamo and dynamo bracket OR Alternator and Alternator bracket; Water pump and thermostat housing; Starter motor;

11.

Cylinder head removal - engine away from the car If the engine has been removed with the cylinder

head still in position, ora separate engine requires attention, the cylinder head maybe removed as follows:1. Unscrew the three rocker cover nuts and lift the rocker cover and gasket away. 2. Unscrew the rocker pedestal nuts (four) and lift off the rocker assembly.

Distributor and sparking plugs;

3.

Inlet and exhaust manifold and carburettors; Fuel pump and fuel pipes; Oil filter and dipstick; Oil filler cap; Clutch assembly;

water pump retaining bolts. It will be noted'that the top right bolt also acts as a mounting for the adjusting bracbolts are of different lengths and it is important that they are replaced in their original positions.

Breather pipe and gauge (where fitted); Auxiliary header tank (where fitted);

4. Lift away the water pump from the front face of the cylinder head followed by the gasket.

2. Without exception all these items can be removed with the engine in the car if it is merely an individual item which requires attention. (It is necessary to re¬ move the gearbox if the clutch is to be renewed with the engine in situ).

Refer to Fig. 2.6 (page57) and remove the three

ketfor the dynamo or alternator.

Observe that all three

5. Undo the fourteen cylinder head nuts half a turn at a time in the reverse order to that shown in Fig. 1. 2. When all the nuts are no longer under tension they may be screwed off the cylinder head one at a time.

3. Starting work on the left hand side of the engine slackenoff the dynamo or alternator retaining bolts, and remove the unit and then the support brackets.

6. Remove the pushrods, keeping them in the relative order in which they were removed. The easiest way to do this is to push them through a sheet of thick paper or thin card in the correct sequence.

4. Take off the distributor and housing, after undoing the two nuts and washers which hold the bottom flange of the distributor housing to the cylinder block. Retain

upwards.

and note the shims between the housing and the block. Do not loosen the square nut on the clamp at the base of the distributor body or the timing will be lost. Undo the sparking plugs. 5. The fuel pump is held in place by two nuts and studs. Undo the two nuts, remove together with spring washers and lift away the pump. 6. Undo and remove the low oil pressure warning sen¬ der unit (photo).

7.

The cylinder head can now be removed by lifting If the head is jammed, try to rock it to break

the seal. Under no circumstances try to prise it apart from the block with a screwdriver or cold chisel as damage may be done to the faces of the head or block. If the head will not readily free, turn the engine over by the front pulley bolt and ring spanner or by the flywheel as the compression in the cylinders will often break the cylinder head joint. If this fails to work, strike the head sharply with a plastic headed hammer, or with a wooden hammer, or with a metal hammer with an interposed piece of wood to cushion the blows. Under no circum¬ stances hit the head directly with a metal hammer as

7. Remove the centre bolt from the oil filter and with¬ draw the complete unit.

this may cause the casting to fracture.

8.

taps with the hammer at the same time pulling upwards

Moving to the front of the engine undo the left hand

thermostat housing cover bolt to free the clip which car¬ ries the fuel and vacuum advance/retard lines. 9. Undo the nuts and washers which hold the inlet and exhaust manifolds to the cylinder head. The inner nuts are very difficult to get at, and are best loosened with a thin ring spanner. 10.

If stiff, tapthe manifolds

Remove all heater pipes from the engine.

12. Undo the bolts which hold the water pump in place on the front face of the block. 13.

Remove the water pump from the block.

14. Where a breather pipe is fitted note that it is a press fit in the block and should be carefully twisted and pulled out. 15.

Undo a quarter of a turn at a time the six bolts

which hold the clutch pressure plate assembly to the flywheel. 16. Lift off the pressure plate together with the loose friction plate.

22

12.

Lift off the head and place onto

Cylinder head removal - engine in car - Triumph 2000

Lift off the inlet and exhaust manifolds together

with the carburettor/s (photo). gently with a piece of wood. 11.

should free the head. one side (photo).

Several sharp

To remove the cylinder head with the engine still in the car the following procedure should be followed: 1.

Disconnect the battery by removing the lead from

the positive terminal (negative terminal on later cars). 2. Drain the water from the cooling system by turning the taps at the base of the radiator, and at the bottom left hand corner of the cylinder block. 3.

Slacken the dynamo or alternator mounting bolts

and push towards the engine. water pump pulley. 4.

Lift the fan belt from the

Disconnect the top, by-pass and bottom hoses and

if the car is fitted with a heater, disconnect the return pipe union at the rear of the pump body. 5.

Refer to Fig.

2. 6, page 57, and remove the three

No. Description 20 Piston tyngs 21 Piston 22 Circlip retaining gudgeon pin 23 Connecting rod 24 Dowel 25 Connecting rod bearings 26 Connecting rod cap 27 Bolt 28 Camshaft

Fig. 1. 7. CRANKSHAFT AND CAMSHAFT No. Description No. Description 35 Shims (crankshaft sprocket) 29 Flywheel and starter - ring 36 Crankshaft sprocket gear 37 Oil thrower 30 Bush (crankshaft) 38 Sleeve 31 Dowel 39 Crankshaft pulley and dam 32 Oil pump spindle and inner per assembly rotor 40 Key 33 Outer rotor 41 Distributor, fuel metering 34 Crankshaft

No. 42 43 44 45 46 47

Description and oil pump drive Timing chain Lockplate (camshaft sproc ket Camshaft sprocket Keeper plate (camshaft) Gudgeon pin Bush (connecting rod)

Chapter 1/Engine water pump retaining bolts.

It will be noted that the top

right bolt also acts as a mounting for the adjusting brac¬ ket for the dynamo or alternator.

Observe also that all

left hand corner of the cylinder block. 3. Slacken the alternator mounting bolts and push to¬ wards the engine. Lift the fan belt from the water pump

three bolts are of different lengths and it is important

pulley.

that they are replaced in their original positions. 6. Lift away the water pump from the front face of the cylinder block followed by the gasket.

4.

water temperature gauge transmitter located in the side

7. Disconnect the two flexible hoses from the front of the air cleaner and tie back out of the way. Undo the four bolts holding the air cleaner assembly to the car¬ burettor installation. Lift away the bolts and spring

5. Disconnect the top, by-pass and bottom hoses and if the car is fitted with a heater disconnect the return pipe at the rear of the pump body. 6. Refer to Fig. 2. 6, page 57, and remove the water

washers followed by the air cleaner assembly.

There

are gaskets placed between the air cleaner and carbur¬ ettor mounting flanges. These should be carefully re¬ moved. 8. Undo the petrol pipe from the pump to the carbur¬ ettor installation at the petrol pump. Slip the rubber sleeve connections from the carburettor float chambers. Lift away the pipes from the engine. 9. Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top of the front carburettor and the other end from the side of the dis¬ tributor and remove the pipe from the engine. 10. Release the choke control cable from the rear car¬ burettor and throttle control rod from the bell crank lever situated behind the front carburettor. 11. Undo the four nuts that hold the two carburettors to the induction manifold and carefully lift away the car¬ burettors and put in a safe place. Do not forget the two gaskets placed between the carburettors and induction manifold. 12. Undo the heater pipes from their respective con¬ nections at the rear of the cylinder head making a note of their locations for correct refitting.

Release the electrical cable connection from the

of the water pump body.

pump retaining bolts.

It will be noted that the top right

bolt also acts as a mounting for the adjusting bracket for the alternator. Observe also that all three bolts are of different lengths and it is important that they are re¬ placed in their original positions. * 7. Lift away the water pump from the front face of the cylinder block followed by the gasket. 8. Disconnect the fuel feed pipe and spill pipe from the petrol injection fuel metering unit. These are shown in Fig. 3. 20 on page 77. The end of the fuel feed pipe should be plugged using a piece of tapered wood or a pencil to stop petrol running from the fuel tank. 9. Disconnect the cold start cable from the metering unit (see Fig. 3.31, page 84). 10.

Undo the air manifold air filter retaining clip at the

manifold.

Ease the filter unit from the manifold so as

to allow access to the flexible air inlet hose, disconnect the hose from the air filter and lift away the filter. 11. Disconnect the two small bore rubber hoses from the air manifold and slacken the two outer air intake rubber hose clips.

13. Remove the vacuum servo pipe from the induction manifold.

12. Remove the two nuts and bolts which secure the air manifold to its mounting bracket. Lift away the air manifold and six air intake rubber hoses.

14. Unscrew the three nuts securing the exhaust downpipe flange to the exhaust manifold. Separate the joint and lift away the old gasket.

13. Undo the air manifold mounting bracket retaining nuts situated on studs on the side of the cylinder block. Lift away the bracket.

15. Undo the terminal in the centre of the coil to free the H. T. lead to the distributor. Mark the spark plug leads to ensure correct refitting and remove the lead from the spark plug.

14. Disconnect the cold start cam return spring and also the cold start and accelerator cables at the butterfly controls.

16. Spring back the two clips holding the distributor cap in position and lift away the distributor cap and rotor arm.

16.

17. Unscrew the six bolts between the induction and ex¬ haust manifold and lift away the bolts and special secur¬ ing clamps. Undo the four remaining nuts and lift away the manifold followed by the gaskets. 18. The procedure is now the same as for removing the cylinder head when the engine is away from the car. One

15. Undo the three rocker cover nuts and lift the pipes and cold start cable to the metering unit from the studs. Disconnect the injector pipes from the injectors.

17. Undo the heater pipes from their respective con¬ nections at the rear of the cylinder head making a note of their locations for correct refitting. 18. Unscrew the three nuts securing the exhaust downpipe flange to the exhaust manifold. Separate the joint and lift away the old gasket. 19.

Undo the terminal in the centre of the coil to free

tip worth noting is that should the cylinder head refuse to free easily the battery can be reconnected and the en¬ gine turned over using the solenoid switch. Under no cir¬

the H. T. lead to the distributor. Mark the spark plug leads to ensure correct refitting and remove the leads from the spark plugs.

cumstances turn the ignition on and ensure the fuel inlet pipe is disconnected and plugged from the fuel pump.

20. Spring back the two clips holding the distributor cap in position and lift away the distributor cap and rotor arm. 21.

13. Cylinder head removal - engine in car - 2. 5 P. I. To remove the cylinder head with the engine still in the car the following procedure should be adhered to:1. Disconnect the battery by removing the lead from the negative terminal. 2.

Drain the water from the cooling system by turning

the taps at the base of the radiator, and at the bottom

24

Unscrew the six bolts between the induction and

exhaust manifold and lift away the bolts and special se¬ curing clamps. Undo the four remaining nuts and lift away the manifolds followed by the gaskets. 22.

The procedure is now the same as for removing the

cylinder head when the engine is away from the car. One tip worth noting is that should the cylinder head re¬ fuse to free easily the battery can be reconnected and the engine turned over using the solenoid switch.

Under

Chapter 1/Engine no circumstances turn the ignition on and ensure the

the fan.

fuel inlet pipe is disconnected and plugged from the fuel pump.

away the fan boss, dowels and the fan pulley and damper

Remove the central crankshaft end bolt and lift

assembly (photo). 2.

The crankshaft pulley wheel may pull off quite easily.

14. Valve - removal

If not, place two large screwdrivers behind the pulley wheel at 180° to each other and carefully lever off the wheel. It is preferable to use a proper pulley extractor

1. All engines covered by this manual have valves with double valve springs.

if this is available, but large screwdrivers or tyre levers are quite suitable, providing care is taken not to damage

2. The valve spring retainers on all models are of the split collet type. These are removed as follows: Com¬ press each pair of springs in turn with a valve spring

the pulley flange. 3. Remove the woodruff key from the crankshaft nose with a pair of pliers and note how the channel in the pul¬ ley is designed to fit over it. Place the woodruff key

compressor until the two halves of the collet can be re¬ moved. Release the compressor and remove the valve cap, upper spring seat (exhaust valve only), double valve springs and valve spring seats.

in a glass jam jar as it is a very small part and can

3. If, when the valve spring compressor is screwed down, the valve spring retaining cap refuses to free and

easily become lost. 4. Unscrew the bolts holding the timing cover to the block. Note the special short screw adjacent to the crankshaft nose.

expose the split collet, do not continue to screw down on

5.

the compressor as there is a likelihood of damaging it. Gently tap the top of the tool directly over the cap with a light hammer. This will free the cap. To avoid the compressor jumping off the valve spring retaining cap

chain wear by measuring how much the chain can be de¬

when it is tapped, hold the compressor firmly in posi¬ tion with one hand. Drop each valve out through the combustion chamber. 4. It is essential that the valves are kept in their cor¬ rect sequence unless they are so badly worn that they are to be renewed. If they are going to be kept and used again, place them in a sheet of card having twelve holes numbered 1 to 12 corresponding with the relative posi¬ tions the valves were in when fitted. Also keep the valve springs, washers, etc, in the correct order.

15. Valve guide - removal If it is wished to remove the valve guides they can be removed from the cylinder head in the following manner. Place the cylinder head with the gasket face on the bench and with a suitable hard steel punch drift the guides out of the cylinder head.

Pull off the timing cover and gasket.

Check for

pressed away from a straight edge. More than 0. 40 inch slack means that a new chain must be fitted on re¬ assembly. It is always good policy, but not essential, to fit new chain wheels whenever a new chain is fitted as these are bound to be slightly worn as well. 6. With the timing cover off, take off the oil thrower. NOTE: The concave side faces the gearwheel. 7. With a drift or screwdriver tap back the tabs on the lockwasher under the two camshaft gearwheel retaining bolts and undo the bolts. 8. To remove the camshaft and crankshaft timing wheels complete with chain, ease each wheel forward a little at a time levering behind each gearwheel in turn with two large screwdrivers at 180° to each other. If the gearwheels are locked solid then it will be necessary to use a proper gearwheel and pulley extractor, and if one is available this should be used anyway in prefer¬ ence to a screwdriver. With both gearwheels safely off, remove the woodruff key from the crankshaft with a pair of pliers, and place them in the jam jar for safe keeping. Note the number of very thin packing washers behind the crankshaft gearwheel and remove them very carefully.

16. Rocker assembly - dismantling 18. 1.

Camshaft - removal

To dismantle the rocker assembly, release the roc¬

ker shaft locating screw (7), Fig. 1.8, remove the pins (3) and caps (2), and spring washers from each end of the shaft (1) and slide from the shaft the pedestals (9,13), rocker arms (11), and rocker spacing springs (12,14). 2. From the end of the shaft undo the plug which gives access to the inside of the rocker which can now be cleaned of sludge etc.

Ensure the rocker arm lubrica¬

ting holes are clear.

The camshaft can be removed with the engine in place in the car, or with the engine on the bench. If the camshaft is to be removed with the engine in the car, the radiator, and fan belt must be removed after the cooling system has been drained. The inlet and exhaust manifolds, rocker gear, pushrods and tappets must also be removed. The timing cover, gears and chain, must be removed. It is also necessary to remove the distri¬ butor drive gear. With the drive gear out of the way, proceed in the following manner:-

17. Timing cover, gears and chain - removal The timing cover, gears and chain can be removed

1.

First measure the camshaft end float with a feeler

gauge placed between the keeper plate and the flange as shown in Fig. 1. 9. If end float exceeds . 0075 inch it

with the engine in the car providing the radiator and fan

will be necessary to fit a new plate.

belt are first removed.

The procedure for removing

two bolts and spring washers which hold the camshaft

the timing cover, gears and chain is otherwise the same irrespective of whether the engine is in the car or on

locating plate to the block. The bolts are normally covered by the camshaft gearwheel.

the bench, and is as follows:1. Undo the four bolts securing the fan and lift away

drawn.

2.

Remove the plate.

Then remove the

The camshaft can now be with¬

Take care to remove the camshaft gently, and

Chapter 1/Engine

in particular ensure that the cam peaks do not damage

21. Gudgeon pin - removal

the camshaft bearings as the shaft is pulled forward. 1.

To remove the gudgeon pin to free the piston from

the connecting rod, remove one of the circlips from 19. Distributor drive - removal

either end of the pin with a pair of circlip pliers. 2. Press out the pin from the rod and piston with your finger. 3. If the pin shows reluctance to move, then on no ac¬

1. To remove the distributor drive with the sump still in position first undo the two nuts which hold the distri¬ butor housing in place. 2. Lift off the distributor and distributor housing and then with a pair of pliers lift out the drive shaft. As the shaft is removed turn it slightly to allow the shaft skew gears to disengage with the camshaft skew gear.

20. Sump, piston, connecting rod and big end bearing removal

count force it out, as this could damage the piston. Im¬ merse the piston in a pan of boiling water for three min¬ utes. On removal the expansion of the aluminium should allow the gudgeon pin to slide out easily. 4. Make sure the pins are kept with the same piston for ease of refitting. 5. Certain models use gudgeon pins which gre an inter¬ ference fit in the little end of the connecting rod. The tightness of fit is their sole means of retention. These pins must be pressed out and replaced using a special tool so as not to damage the connecting rods or the pis¬ tons.

This is really a job best left to your local Tri¬

umph dealer or engineering works. 1. The sump, pistons and connecting rods can be re¬ moved with the engine still in the car or with the engine

22. Piston ring - removal

on the bench. If in the car, proceed as for removing the cylinder head with the engine in the car, as described in Section 12 (Triumph 2000) or Section 13 (2. 5 P. I.).

1. To remove the piston rings, slide them carefully over the top of the piston, taking care not to scratch the

If on the bench proceed as for removing the cylinder head with the engine in this position, as described in Section 11. The pistons and connecting rods are drawn up out of the top of the cylinder bores. 2. It will also be necessary to lower the front suspen¬ sion cross member to gain access to the sump and under¬ side of the engine if it is to remain in the car. Full details of this operation are given in Chapter 12 3. Remove the bolts and washers holding the sump in position. Remove the sump and the sump gasket. 4. Knock back with a cold chisel the locking tabs on the big end retaining bolts, and remove the bolts and lock¬ ing tabs. 5. Remove the big end caps one at a time, taking care to keep them in the right order and the correct way round. Also ensure that the shell bearings are kept with their correct connecting rods and caps unless they are to be renewed. Normally, the numbers 1 to 4 are stamped on adjacent sides of the big end caps and connecting rods, indicating which cap fits on which rod and which way round the cap fits. If no numbers or lines can be found then with a sharp screwdriver or file scratch mating marks across the joint from the rod to the cap. One line for connecting rod No. 1, two for connecting rod

aluminium alloy.

Never slide them off the bottom of

the piston skirt. It is very easy to break the iron pis¬ ton rings if they are pulled off roughly so this operation should be done with extreme caution. It is helpful to make use of an old hacksaw blade, or better still, an old 0. 020 inch feeler gauge. 2.

Lift one end of the piston ring to be removed out of

its groove and insert the end of the feeler gauge under it. 3. Turn the feeler gauge slowly round the piston and as the ring comes out of its groove apply slight upward pressure so that it rests on the land above. It can then be eased off the piston with the feeler gauge stopping it from slipping into any empty groove, if it is any but the top piston ring that is being removed.

23. Flywheel and engine end plate -removal Having removed the clutch (see Chapter 5), the fly¬ wheel and engine end plate can be removed. It is poss¬ ible for this operation to be carried out only with the en¬ gine out of the car.

No. 2 and so on. This will ensure there is no confusion later as it is most important that the caps go back in

1. Bend back the locking tabs from the four bolts which hold the flywheel to the flywheel flange on the rear of the crankshaft.

the correct position on the connecting rods from which they were removed.

2. Unscrew the bolts and remove them, complete with the locking plates.

6. If the big end caps are difficult to remove they may be gently tapped with a soft hammer.

3. Lift the flywheel away from the crankshaft flange. NOTE: Some difficulty may be experienced in removing

7. To remove the shell bearings, press the bearing op¬ posite the groove in both the connecting rod and the con¬

the bolts, by the rotation of the crankshaft every time

necting rod caps and the bearings will slide out easily.

pressure is put on the spanner. To lock the crankshaft in position while the bolts are removed, use a screw¬

8. Withdraw the pistons and connecting rods upwards and ensure they are kept in the correct order for re¬

driver as a wedge between a backplate stud and the ring

caps and bearings to the rods if the bearings do not re¬

gear. Alternatively a wooden wedge can be inserted betweenthe crankshaft and the side of the block inside the crankcase.

quire renewal, to minimise the risk of getting the caps and rods muddled.

4. The engine end plate is held in position by a number of bolts and spring washers of varying sizes. Release

placement in the same bore.

26

Refit the connecting rod

No. Description 1 Rocker shaft 2 End cap 3 Pin 4 Locknut

Fig. 1. 8. ROCKER SHAFT PARTS No. Description No. Description 5 Rocker, R. H. 9 Rocker pedestal (rear) 6 Shakeproof washer 10 Rocker bush 7 Screw 11 Rocker, L. H. 8 Adjuster

No. Description 12 Spring 13 Rocker pedestal 14 Spring

Fig. 1. 9. Checking camshaft end float.

27

Chapter 1/Engine the bolts noting where different sizes fit and place the. a

lubricated by splash and oil mist.

together to ensure none of them becomes lost. Lift away the end plate from the block complete with the paper gr «ket.

shaft at a reduced pressure by means of a scroll and

5. The front engine end plate is removed in identical fashion.

Oil is fed to the valve gear via the hollow rocker two flats on the camshaft rear journal. Drillings and grooves in the camshaft front journal lubricate the cam shaft thrust plate, and the timing chain ar d gearwheels. Oil returns to the sump by gravity, the pushrods and cam followers being lubricated by oil re¬

24. Crankshaft and main bearing - removal

turning via the pushrod drillings in the block. Any one of three types of crankcase ventilation sys¬ tem may be fitted depending on the model and its year

With the engine out of the car, remove the timing gears, sump, oil pump and the big end bearings, pis¬ tons, flywheel and engine end plates. Removal of the crankshaft can be attempted only with the engine on the bench or floor. Take off the front sealing block and the packing pieces. 1. Undo by one turn the nuts which hold the four main bearing caps in place. 2. Unscrew the nuts and remove them together with the washers. 3. At the rear of the engine undo the seven bolts which hold the special oil retaining cover in place and remove the cover. 4. Remove the main bearing caps and the bottom half of each bearing shell, taking care to keep the bearing shells in the right caps. 5. When removing the rear bearing cap, NOTE the bottom semi-circular halves of the thrust washers, one half lying on either side of the main bearing. Lay them with the end bearing along the correct side. 6. Slightly rotate the crankshaft to free the upper halves of the bearing shells and thrust washers which should now be extracted and placed over the correct bearing cap. 7. Remove the crankshaft by lifting it away from the crankcase.

of manufacture.

The three systems are known as 'Open

Ventilation', 'Closed Ventilation', and 'Emission Con¬ trol'. 'Open Ventilation' is very straightforward and is fitted only to early models.

It comprises an open angled

tube fitted on the right hand side of the engine which re¬ lieves crankcase pressure directly into the air. 'Closed Ventilation'is a slightly more sophisticated system with crankcase pressure being relieved by means of a rubber pipe from the rocker cover to the air clean¬ er. The hole for the open road tube is blocked over and the possibility of crankcase fumes entering the car is considerably reduced. 'Emission Control' is similar to 'Closed Ventilation ' but more efficient and complicated. An emission con¬ trol valve is positioned on top of the inlet manifold to which it is connected. It is also connected to a tube from the rocker cover. The control valve works by manifold depression so that when the depression is greatest (i. e. on the overrun) crankcase gas flow i s restricted. A special oil filter cap is also used and this contains a non-return valve which ensures that the crankcase and atmospheric pressures are kept in bal¬ ance.

26. Oil filter - removal and replacement 25. Lubrication and crankcase ventilation systems description A forced feed system of lubrication as shown in

1.

It is easy to change the oil filter on all models.

2.

It is located on the left hand side of the engine to¬

Fig. 1.10, is fitted with oil circulated round the engine from the sump below the block. The level of engine oil

wards the front. Unscrew the filter centre bolt (8), Fig. 1.11 or (2) Fig. 1. 12, and with a rag under the filter to catch spilled oil, withdraw the whole filter assembly.

in the sump is indicated on the dipstick which is fitted on the left hand side of the engine. It is marked to indi¬ cate the optimum level which is the maximum mark.

3. Throw away the filter element and with a clean nonfluffy rag thoroughly clean the filter bowl.

Thelevelof the oil in the sump, ideally, should not be above or below this line. Oil is replenished via the filler cap on the rocker cover. The eccentric rotor type oil pump is bolted in the left hand side of the crankcase and is driven by a short shaft from the skew gear on the camshaft which also drives the distributor shaft. The pump is the non-draining variety to allow rapid pressure build-up when starting from cold.

4. Remove the rubber sealing ring that goes between the lip of the filter bowl and the crankcase and replace it with the new sealing ring that is always provided with a new filter element. 5. Place the new filter element in the bowl and reas¬ semble the filter assembly to the crankcase. 6.

Carefully check that the lip of the bowl is properly

seated in the groove and that the rubber sealing ring is correctly in place before finally tightening down the centre bolt.

Oil is drawn into the pump from the sump via the pick-up pipe.

From the oil pump the lubricant passes

through a non-adjustable relief valve to the by-pass (early models only) or full flow filter.

Filtered oil en¬

27. Oil pressure relief valve - removal and replace¬ ment

ters the main gallery which runs the length of the engine on the left hand side. Drillings from the main gallery carry the oil to the crankshaft journals.

1.

To prevent excessive oil pressure - for example

when the engine is cold - an oil pressure relief valve

The crankshaft is drilled so that oil under pressure

is built into the left hand side of the engine immediate¬

reaches the crankpins from the crankshaft journals. The cylinder bores, pistons and gudgeon pins are all

ly above the crankcase flange and in the line vertically with the distributor.

28

No. Description 1 Rubber seal 2 Locating washer

Fig. 1.11. OIL FILTER PARTS. No. Description 3 Filter element 4 Container

ARROWS INDICATE FLOW OF OIL No. Description 5 Relief valve 6 Spring

No. Description 7 Seal 8 securing bolt

Fig. 1. 12. THE SPECIAL OIL FILTER ASSEMBLY FITTED TO 2. 5 LITRE PETROL INJECTION ENGINES lo. Description No. Description No. Description No. Description 1 Shell assembly 3 Seal 5 valve 8 Sealing ring 2 Centre bolt 4 Spring 7 Filter element 9 Centraliser

29

Chapter 1/Engine

2.

The relief valve assembly is dismantled by undoing

32. Big end and main bearings - examination and reno¬

the large hexagonal headed bolt which holds the relief valve piston and spring in place. 3.

Always renew the spring at a major overhaul.

To

replace the assembly, fit the valve piston into its orifice in the block, then the spring and then the bolt, ensuring that the sealing washer is in place on the latter.

vation 1.

Big end bearing failure is accompanied by a noisy

knocking from the crankcase, and a slight drop in oil pressure. Main bearings failure is accompanied by vi¬ bration which can be quite severe as the engine speed rises and falls and a drop in oil pressure. 2. Bearings which have not broken up, but are badly

28. Oil pump - removal and replacement

worn will give rise to low oil pressure and some vibra¬ tion. Inspect the big ends, main bearings, and thrust washers for signs of general wear, scoring, pitting and

1. Undo the three bolts and spring washers which hold the pump to the block.

scratches. The bearings should be matt grey in colour. With lead-indium bearings, should a trace, of copper

2. Removal of the bolts also releases the end cover so the pump can be taken from the engine and the outer and

colour be noticed, the bearings are badly wdrn as the lead bearing material has worn away to expose the indium

inner rotors pulled off together with the pump shaft.

underlay. Renew the bearings if they are in this con¬ dition or if there is any sign of scoring or pitting. 3.

29. Timing chain tensioner - removal and replacement 1. With time the spring blade timing chain tensioner will become worn and it should be renewed at the same time as the timing chain. Wear can be clearly seen as two grooves on the face of the tensioner where it presses against the chain. 2. To remove the tensioner bend it back and then pull out from its securing pins. 3. On replacement fit the open end of the tensioner over the pin and press the blade into place with the aid of a screwdriver until it snaps into place.

The undersizes available are designed to corres¬

pond with the regrind sizes, i. e. . 010 inch bearings are correctfora crankshaft reground 010 inch undersize. The bearings are in fact, slightly more than the stated undersize as running clearances have been allowed for during their manufacture. 4. Very long engine life can be achieved by changing big end bearings at intervals of 30, 000 miles and main bearings at intervals of 50,000 miles, irrespective of bearing wear. Normally, crankshaft wear is infinites¬ imal and a change of bearings will ensure mileages of between 100,000 to 120, 000 miles before crankshaft re¬ grinding becomes necessary. Crankshafts normally have to be reground because of scoring due to bearing failure.

30. Examination and renovation - general 33. Cylinder bores - examination and renovation With the engine stripped down and all parts thor¬ oughly cleaned, it is now time to examine everything for wear. The following items should be checked and where necessary renewed or renovated as described in the following sections: -

1. The cylinder bores must be examined for taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by carefully ex¬ amining the top of the cylinder bores. If they are at all worn a very slight ridge will be found on the thrust side.

This marks the top of the piston ring travel.

The

owner will have a good indication of the bore wear prior 31. Crankshaft - examination and renovation

to dismantling the engine,

1. Examine the crankpin and main journal surfaces for signs of scoring or scratches. Check the ovality of the

head. Excessive oil consumption accompanied by blue smoke from the exhaust is a sure sign of worn cylinder bores and piston rings.

crankpins at different positions with a micrometer.

If

more than 0.001 inch out of round, the crankpin will have to be reground. It will also have to be reground if there are any scores or scratches present. Also check the journals in the same fashion. 2. On highly timed engines the centre main bearings have been known to break up. This is not always im¬

or removing the cylinder

2. Measure the bore diameter just under the ridge with a micrometer and compare it with the diameter at the bottom of the bore, which is not subject to wear. If the difference between the two measurements is more than . 006 inch then it will be necessary to fit special pistons and rings or to have the cylinders rebored and fit over¬ size pistons. If no micrometer is available remove the rings from a piston and place the piston in each bore in

mediately apparent, but slight vibration in an otherwise normally smooth engine and a very slight drop in oil

turn about £ inch below the top of the bore.

pressure under normal conditions are clues.

If the

inch feeler gauge can be slid between the piston and the

If an 0. 010

centre main bearings are suspected of failure it should

cylinder wall on the thrust side of the bore then remed¬

be immediately investigated by dropping the sump and

ial action must be taken.

removing the centre main bearing caps.

(. 508 mm) are available and oversize rings in the fol¬ lowing sizes:-

Failure to do

this will result in badly scored centre main journals. If it is necessary to regrind the crankshaft and fit new bearings,

works will be able to decide how much metal to grind off and the correct undersize shells to fit.

30

+. 010 in (. 254 mm) +. 030 in. (. 762 mm)

your local Triumph garage or engineering 3.

Oversize pistons +. 020 in.

+. 020 in. (. 508 mm)

The oversize pistons are accurately machined to

just below +. 020 in.

so as to provide correct running

Chapter 1/Engine clearances in bores bored out to the exact oversize di¬ mensions.

2. The camshaft itself should show no signs of wear,

4.

If the bores are slightly worn but not so badly worn

score marks can be removed by very gently rubbing

as to justify reboring them, then special oil control rings and pistons can be fitted which will restore com¬ pression and stop the engine burning oil. Several dif¬

with a very fine emery cloth. The greatest care should be taken to keep the cam profiles smooth.

but,

if very slight scoring on the cams is noticed, the

ferent types are available and the manufacturers instruc¬ tions concerning their fitting must be followed closely. 5. If the blockis to be sent away for reboring it is es¬

36. Valves and valve seats - examination and renovation

sential to remove the cylinder head studs. Lock two nuts together on a stud (photo 60:1, page41), and then wind the stud out by turning the bottom nut anti-clockwise.

1. Examine the heads of the valves for pitting and burning, especially the heads of the exhaust valves. The

6.

the pitting on valve and seat is very slight the marks

If new pistons are being fitted and the bores have

valve seating should be examined at the same time.

If

not been reground, it is essential to slightly roughen the

canbe removed by grinding the seats and valves together

hard glaze on the sides of the bores with fine glass paper so the new piston rings will have a chance to bed in pro¬ perly.

with coarse, and thenfine, valve grinding paste. Where bad pitting has occurred to the valve seats it will be ne¬ cessary to recut them and fit new valves. If the valve seats are so worn that they cannot be recut, then it will

34. Pistons and piston rings - examination and reno¬ vation 1. If the old pistons are to be refitted, carefully re¬ move the piston rings and then thoroughly clean them. Take particular care to clean out the piston ring grooves. At the same time do not scratch the aluminium in any way. If new rings are to be fitted to the old pistons then the top ring should be stepped so as to clear the ridge left in the bore above the previous top ring. If a normal but oversize new ring is fitted, it will hit the ridge and break, because the new ring will not have worn in the same way as the old, which will have worn in unison with the ridge. 2. Before fitting the rings on the pistons each should be inserted approximately 3 inches down the cylinder bore and the gap measured with a feeler gauge. This should be between . 015 inch and . 038 inch. It is essen¬ tial that the gap should be measured at the bottom of the ring travel, as if it is measured at the top of a worn bore and gives a perfect fit, it could easily seize at the bottom. If the ring gap is too small rub down the ends of the ring with a very fine file until the gap, when fitted, is correct. To keep the rings square in the bore for measurement line each up in turn by inserting an old piston in the bore upside down about 3 inches. Remove the piston and measure the piston ring gap. 3. Whenfitting new pistons and rings to a rebored en¬ gine the piston ring gap can be measured at the top of the bore as the bore will not now taper. It is unne¬ cessary to measure the side clearance in the piston ring grooves with the rings fitted as the groove dimensions are accurately machined during manufacture. When fit¬ ting new oil control rings to old pistons it may be neces¬ sary to have the grooves widened by machining to accept the new wider rings. In this instance the manufacturers representative will make this quite clear and will sup¬ ply the address to which the pistons must be sent for

be necessary to fit new valve seat inserts. These latter two jobs should be entrusted to the local Triumph agent or engineering works. In practice it is very seldom that the seats are so badly worn that they require renewal. Normally, it is the exhaust valve that is too badly worn for replacement, and the owner can easily purchase a new set of valves and match them to the seats by valve grinding. 2. Valve grinding is carried out as follows:Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste on the seat face and apply a suction grinder tool to the valve head. With a semi-rotary motion, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to re-distribute the grinding paste, Fig. 1.13. When a dull matt even sur¬ face finish is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the process with fine carborundum paste, lifting and turning the valve to re-distribute the paste as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. When a smooth, unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced, on both valve and valve seat faces, the grinding operation is completed. 3. Scrape away all carbon from the valve head and the valve stem.

Carefully clean away every trace of grind¬

ing compound, taking great care to leave none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean the valves and valve seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then with a clean rag, and finally, if an air line is available, blow the valves, valve guides and valve ports clean.

37. Timing gears and chain-examination and renovation 1.

Examine the teeth on both the crankshaft gearwheel

and the camshaft gearwheel for wear.

Each tooth forms

an inverted 'V' with the gearwheel periphery, and if worn, the side of each tooth under tension will be slightly concave in shape, when compared with the other side of

machining.

the tooth, i. e. one side of the inverted 'V' will be con¬ cave when compared with the other. If any sign of wear is present the gearwheels must be renewed.

35. Camshaft and camshaft bearings - examination and

and renew the chain if any slackness is noticeable when

2. renovation 1. On all engines the camshaft bearings are machined directly into the block and consequently are not replace¬ able.

Examine the links of the chain for side slackness

compared with a new chain. It is a sensible precaution to renew the chain at about 30,000 miles and at a lesser mileage if the engine is stripped down for a major over¬ haul. The actual rollers on a very badly worn chain may be slightly grooved.

31

Chapter 1/Engine

38. Timing chain tensioner-examination and renovation

41. Flywheel starter ring - examination and renovation

1. If the timing chain is badly worn it is more than likely that the tensioner will be too.

worn, or if some are missing, then it will be necessary

2.

to remove the ring.

Examine the side of the tensioner which bears

against the chain and renew it if it is grooved or ridged. See Section 37 for details.

39. Rockers and rocker shaft-examination and renovation

1.

If the teeth on the flywheel starter ring are badly This is achieved by splitting the

ring with a cold chisel.

The greatest care should be

taken not to damage the flywheel during this process. 2. To fit a new ring heat it gently and evenly with an oxyacetylene flame until a temperature of approximately

1. Withdraw the cotter pins from the rocker shaft ends holding the end caps in place. Slide off the rockers, pedestals and springs from the front end of the shaft

350°C is reached. This is indicated by a light metallic blue surface colour. With the ring at this temperature, fit it to the flywheel with the front of the teeth facing the flywheel register. The ring should be tapped gently down onto its register and left to cool naturally when

noting carefully the order in which they are removed.

the shrinkage of the metal on cooling will ertsure that it

Remove the Phillips screw holding the rear pedestal to the shaft and withdraw the rear pedestal and rocker.

is a secure and permanent fit.

Thoroughly clean out the shaft and as it acts as the oil

Great care must betaken

not to overheat the ring, as if this happens the temper of the ring will be lost.

passage for the valve gear, also ensure that the oil holes in it are quite clear after having cleaned them out. Check the shaft for straightness by rolling it on the bench.

42. Oil pump - examination and renovation

2.

1. Thoroughly clean all the component parts in petrol and then check the rotor endf loat and lobe clearances in the following manner:-

It is most unlikely that it will deviate from normal,

but, if itdoes, then a judicious attempt must be made to straighten it. If this is not successful purchase a new shaft. The surface worn ridges caused present, renew the curred only if the blocked.

of the shaft should be free from any by the rocker arms. If any wear is shaft. Wear is likely to have oc¬ rocker shaft oil holes have become

3. Check the rocker arms for wear of the rocker bush¬ es; for wear at the rocker arm face which bears on the valve stem; and for wear of the adjusting ball ended screws. Wear in the rocker arm bush can be checked by gripping the rocker arm tip and holding the rocker

2.

Position the rotors in the pump and place the straight

edge of a steel ruler across the joint face of the pump. Measure the gap between the bottom of the straight edge and the top of the rotors with a feeler gauge as in Fig. 1.14. If the measurement exceeds .010 inch (. 254 mm) then check the lobe clearances as described in the fol¬ lowing paragraphs. If the lobe clearances are correct then lap the joint face on a sheet of plate glass. 3.

Measure with a feeler gauge the gap between the

inner and outer rotors. inch (Fig. 1. 15).

It should not be more than 0. 010

arm in place on the shaft, noting if there is any lateral rocker arm shake. If shake is present, and the arm is very loose on the shaft, a new bush or rocker arm must be fitted.

4.

4. Check the tip of the rocker arm where it bears on the valve head for cracking or serious wear on the case hardening. If none is present re-use the rocker arm. Check the lower half of the ball on the end of the rocker

the measurements are outside these figures. It can be safely assumed that any major reconditioning indicates that the pump will need renewal.

Then measure the gap between the outer rotor and

the side of the pump body which should not exceed 0. 010 inch (Fig. 1.16). It is essential to renew the pump if

arm adjusting screw. On high performance engines wear on the ball and top of the pushrod is easily noted

43. Cylinder head - decarbonisation

by the unworn 'pip' which fits in the small central oil hole on the ball. The larger this 'pip' the more wear has taken place to both the ball and the pushrod. Check

out of the car.

the pushrods for straightness by rolling them on the bench. Renew any that are bent.

40. Tappets - examination and renovation 1. Examine the bearing surface of the tappets which lie on the camshaft. Any indentation in the surface or any cracks indicate serious wear and the tappets should be renewed. 2.

Thoroughly clean them out, removing all traces of

sludge.

It is most unlikely that the sides of the tappets

will prove worn, but, if they are a very loose fit in their bores and can readily be rocked, they should be ex¬ changed for new units. It is very unusual to find any wear in the tappets, and ajny wear present is likely to occur only at very high mileages.

32

1.

This can be carried out with the engine either in or With the cylinder head off, carefully re¬

move with a wire brush and blunt scraper all traces of carbon deposits from the combustion spaces and the ports. The valve head stems and valve guides should algo be freed from any carbon deposits. Wash the com¬ bustion spaces and ports down with petrol and scrape the cylinder head surface free of any foreign matter with the side of a steel rule, or a similar article. 2,

Clean the pistons and top of the cylinder bores.

If

the pistons are still in the block it is essential that great care is taken to ensure that no carbon gets into the cylinder bores as this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause damage to the piston and rings.

To en¬

sure that this does not happen, first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are at the top of their bores. Stuff rag into the other two bores or seal them off with paper and masking tape.

The waterways should also be

covered with small pieces of masking tape to prevent

Fig. 1.13. Grinding valve seats using hand tool.

Fig. 1.14. Checking the rotor end clearance which should not exceed 0. 010 inch (0. 254 mm)

Fig. 1.15. Checking clearance between inner and outer rotors which should not exceed 0. 010 inch (0. 254 mm).

Fig- 1-16. Checking the rotor clearance against the body. should not exceed 0. 010 inch (0. 254 mm).

This

Chapter 1/Engine

damaging the water pump.

renew any bolts or studs the threads of which are in any way damaged, and whenever possible use a new spring

3. There are two schools of thought as to how much carbon should be removed from the piston crown. One

washer. 2. Check the core plugs for signs of weeping and al¬

particles of carbon entering the cooling system and

school recommends that a ring of carbon should be left

ways renew the plug at the front of the engine as it is

round the edge of the piston and on the cylinder bore wall as an aid to low oil consumption. Although this is

normally covered by the engine endplate. 3. Drive a punch through the centre of the core plugs.

probably true for early engines with worn bores, on later engines the thought of the second school can be applied,

4.

which is that for effective decarbonisation all traces of carbon should be removed. 4.

If all traces of carbon are to be removed, press a

little grease into the gap between the cylinder walls and the two pistons which are to be worked on. With a blunt scraper carefully scrape away the carbon from the pis¬ ton crown, taking great care not to scratch the alumin¬ ium. Also scrape away the carbon from the surround¬ ing lip of the cylinder wall. When all carbon has been removed, scrape away the grease which will now be contaminated with carbon particles, taking care not to press any into the bores. To assist prevention of car¬ bon build-up the piston crown can be polished with a metal polish. Turn the crankshaft so that the two pistons which were at the bottom are now at the top. Place rag or masking tape in the cylinders which have been decarbonised and proceed as just described. 5.

If a ring of carbon is going to be left round the pis¬

ton then this can be helped by inserting an old piston ring into the top of the bore to rest on the piston and ensure that carbon is not accidentally removed. Check that there are no particles of carbon in the cylinder bores. Decarbonising is now complete.

44. Valve guides - examination and renovation Examine the valve guides internally for wear. If the valves are a very loose fit in the guides and there is the slightest suspicion of lateral rocking using a new

Using the punch as a lever lift out the old core plugs

one at a time. 5. Thoroughly clean the core plug orifices and using a thin headed hammer as an expander firmly tap new core plugs into place, convex side facing ou'.. 6. Apart from your normal tools, a supply of clean rag; an oil can filled with engine oil (an empty plastic detergent bottle thoroughly cleaned and washed out, will invariably do just as well); a new supply' of assorted spring washers; a set of new gaskets; and preferably a torque spanner, should be collected together.

47. Crankshaft - replacement Ensure that the crankcase is thoroughly clean and that all oilways are clean.

A thin twist drill or a pipe

cleaner is useful for cleaning them out. them out with compressed air.

If possible blow

Treat the crankshaft in the same fashion, and then inject engine oil into the crankshaft oilways. Commence work on rebuilding the engine by re¬ moving the crankshaft and main bearings:1. If the old main bearing shells are to be replaced, (not to do so is a false economy unless they are virtually new), fit the four upper halves of the main bearing shells to their location in the crankcase, after wiping the lo¬ cations clean. 2. NOTE: At the back of each bearing is a tab which engages in locating grooves in either the crankcase or the main bearing cap housings. 3. If new bearings are being fitted, carefully clean away all traces of protective grease with which they are coated.

valve, then new guides will have to be fitted. If the valve guides have been removed, compare them internally by visual inspection with a new guide as well as testing them for rocking with a new valve.

4. With the four upper bearing shells securely in place, wipe the lower bearing cap housings and fit the four

45. Sump - examination and renovation

lower shell bearings to their caps ensuring that the right shell goes into the right cap if the old bearings are be¬ ing refitted.

1.

5. Wipe the recesses either side of the rear main bear¬ ing which locate the thrust washers.

It is essential to thoroughly wash out the sump with

petrol and this can be done properly only with the gauze removed. 2. With a screwdriver and a pair of pliers carefully pull back the tags which hold the gauze in place. 3.

The gauze can then be lifted out and the inside

cleaned out properly. Scrape all traces of the old sump gasket from the flange.

6. Generously lubricate the crankshaft journals and the upper and lower main bearing shells and carefully lower the crankshaft into place (photo). 7. Fit the upper halves of the thrust washers into their grooves either side of the rear main bearing, as shown in Fig. 1. 17. 8.

Rotate the crankshaft in the direction towards the

main bearing tabs (so that the main bearing shells do not slide out). At the same time feed the thrust washers 46. Engine reassembly - general 1. To ensure maximum life with minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must everything be correctly assembled, but all the parts must be spotlessly clean; all the oilways must be clear; locking washers and spring washers must always be fitted where indicated; and all bearing and other working surfaces must be thoroughly lubricated during assembly.

34

Before assembly begins

into their locations with their oil grooves outwards away from the bearing (photo). 9.

Fit the main bearing caps in position ensuring they

locate properly. The mating surfaces must be spotless¬ ly clean or the caps will not seat correctly (photo). As the bearing caps are assembled to the cylinder block and then line bored during manufacture, it is essential that they are returned to the same positions from which they were removed.

Fig. 1.17. Fitting thrust washers to crankshaft.

Fig. 1.18. Piston and connecting rod. Note mark 'A' which identi¬ fies front of piston

Fig. 1.19. Piston rings assembled to piston.

Chapter 1/Engine 10. Refit the main bearing cap bolts and locking tabs (if fitted) or spring washers (photo). 11. Tighten the bolts to a torque wrench setting of 55 lb ft (photo).

the top of its stroke (photo).

49. Piston ring - replacement

12. Test the crankshaftfor freedom of rotation. Should it be very stiff to turn or possess high spots a most

1.

careful inspection must be made, preferably by a qual¬

thoroughly clean and unblocked.

ified mechanic with a micrometer to get to the cause of the trouble. It is very seldom that any trouble of this nature will be experienced when fitting the crankshaft.

ways be fitted over the head of the piston and never from the bottom. 2. The easiest method to use when fitting rings is to

13.

Check that the piston ring grooves and oilways are Piston rings must al¬

Check the crankshaft end float with a feeler gauge

wrap a . 020 inch feeler gauge round the top of the pis¬

measuring the longitudinal movement between the crank¬ shaft and a thrust washer (photo). End float should be between 0. 004 inch and 0. 008 inch. If end float is ex¬ cessive, oversize thrust washers can be fitted.

ton and place the rings one at a time, starting with the bottom oil control ring, over the feeler gauge. 3. The feeler gauge, complete with ring, can then be

14. Next fit the sealing block over the front main bear¬ ing cap. Smear the ends of the block with jointing com¬

until the correct groove is reached. The piston ring is then slid gently off the feeler gauge into the groove.

pound and fit the block in place (photo A). Fit the se¬ curing screws but do not tighten fully. Fit new wedge seals at each end (photo B) and line up the front face of

4. An alternative method is to fit the rings by holding them slightly open with the thumbs and both of the index

the block to the front of the cylinder block with a straight edge. Tighten the screws fully (photo C) and cut the wedge seals flush with the crankcase flange.

slid down the piston over the other piston ring grooves

fingers. This method requires a steady hand and great care as it is easy to open the ring too much and break it.

50. Piston - replacement

48. Piston and connecting rod - reassembly 1. If the same pistons are being used, then they must be mated to the same connecting rod with the same gud¬ geon pin.

The pistons, complete with connecting rods, can be fitted to the cylinder bores in the following sequence:1. With a wad of clean rag wipe the cylinder bores clean. 2.

The pistons,

complete with connecting rods, are

If new pistons are being fitted it does not

fitted to their bores from the top of the block (photo).

matter which connecting rod they are used with, but, the gudgeon pins should be fitted on the basis of selective assembly.

Note that in the photographs special oil control pistons are being fitted.

2. All engines use fully floating gudgeon pins which in theory are a push fit at 68°F (20°C) but this is not al¬ ways as simple as it seems. 3. Because aluminium alloy, when hot, expands more than steel, the gudgeon pin may be a very tight fit in the piston when they are cold. To avoid any damage to the piston it is best to heat it in boiling water when the pin will slide in easily.

3. As each piston is inserted into its bore ensure that it is the correct piston/connecting rod assembly for that particular bore; that the connecting rod is the right way round; and that the front of the piston is towards the front of the bore, i. e. towards the front of the engine. 3. The pistonwill slide into the bore only as far as the

4. Lay the correct piston adjacent to each connecting rod and remember that the same rod and piston must go

oil control ring. It is then necessary to compress the piston rings into a clamp (photo) and to gently tap the piston into the cylinder bore with a wooden or plastic hammer. If a proper piston ring clamp is not available then a suitable jubilee clip does the job very well.

back into the same bore. If new pistons are being used it is necessary to ensure only that the right connecting rod is placed in each bore.

51. Connecting rod to crankshaft reassembly

5. Fit a gudgeon pin circlip in position at one end of the gudgeon pin hole in the piston. 6.

Locate the connecting rod in the piston with the

marking 'FRONT' on the piston crown towards the front of the engine, i. e. the timing cover end, and the con¬ necting rod cap towards the camshaft side of the engine (see Fig. 1. 18). 7.

Slide the gudgeon pin in through the hole in the pis¬

ton and through the connecting rod little end until it rests against the previously fitted circlip (photo). NOTE: The pin should be a push fit. 8.

Fit the second circlip in position (photo).

Repeat

this procedure for all six pistons and connecting rods. 9. Where special o i 1 control piston rings are being fitted, should the position of the top ring be the same as the position of the top ring on the old piston, ensure that a groove has been machined on the top of the new ring so no fouling occurs between the unworn portion at the top of the bore and the piston ring when the latter is at

36

1. Wipe clean the connecting rod, half of the big end bearing cap and the underside of the shell bearing, and fit the shell bearing in position with its locating tongue en¬ gaged with the corresponding cut out in the rod (photo). 2. If the old bearings are nearly new and are being re¬ fitted then ensure they are replaced in their correct lo¬ cations on the correct rods. dowels (photo).

Refit the end cap locating

3. Generously lubricate the crankpin journals with en¬ gine oil (photo), and turn the crankshaft so that the crankpin is in the most advantageous position for the connecting rods to be drawn onto it. 4.

Wipe clean the connecting rod bearing cap and back

of the shell bearing, and fit the shell bearing in position ensuring that the locating tongue at the back of the bear¬ ing engages with the locating groove in the connecting rod cap. 5.

Generously lubricate the shell bearing and offer up

37

Chapter 1/Engine the connecting rod bearing cap to the connecting rod (photo).

key will enter the slot in the crankshaft gearwheel, and the camshaft gearwheel is in the correct position rela¬ tive to the camshaft (see paragraph 3). 6. Fit the timing chain and gearwheel assembly onto the camshaft and crankshaft, keeping the timing marks adjacent (photo). Fit a new double tab washer in place on the cam shaft gearwheel and fit the two retaining bolts. 7. Lever up the tabs on the lockwasher. 8. The oil seal in the front of the timing cover should be renewed. To remove it carefully drive it out with a screwdriver taking care not to damage the timing cover in the process (photo). 9. Evenly press a new seal into the cover using a vice (photo) ensuring that the seal lip is towards the crank¬ shaft sprocket wheel. 10. Fit the oil thrower inplace on the nose of the crank¬ shaft making sure that the dished periphery is towards the cover (if dished type fitted). 11. Lubricate the front cover oil seal, fit a new gasket in place on the end plate, and fit the cover at an angle (photo), so as to catch the spring tensioner against the side of the chain. Swing the cover into its correct pos¬ ition and insert one or two bolts finger tight. 12. Note that the short screw headed bolt MUST be fit¬ ted to the hole indicated by the arrow in the photograph. 13. Now tighten down all the bolts and screws evenly (photo).

6. Fit the connecting rod bolts with the one-piece lock¬ ing tab under them and tighten the bolts with a torque spanner to 40 lb ft. (photo). 7. With a hammer or pair of pliers knock up the lock¬ ing tabs against the bolt head (photo). 8. When all the connecting rods have been fitted, ro¬ tate the crankshaft to check that everything is free, and that there are no high spots causing binding. The bot¬ tom half is now nearly built up.

52. Front end plate - reassembly 1. Fit a new gasket in place over the front of the cy¬ linder block (photo). 2. Lower the front end plate into place noting the hole for the dowel (arrowed) and then fit the securing bolt (where fitted) immediately above the crankshaft nose (photo).

53. Camshaft - replacement 1. Wipe the camshaft bearing journals clean and lub¬ ricate them generously with engine oil. 2. Insert the camshaft into the crankcase gently (photo), taking care not to damage the camshaft bearings with the cams.

3. Replace the camshaft locating plate and tighten down the two retaining bolts and washers (photo).

54. Timing gears - chain tensioner - cover - replace¬ ment 1. Place the gearwheels in position without the timing chain and place the straight edge of a steel rule, Fig. 1. 20, from the side of the camshaft gearteeth to the crankshaft gearwheel, and measure the gap (if any) be¬ tween the steel rule and the crankshaft gearwheel. If a gap exists a suitable number of packing washers must be placed on the crankshaft nose to bring the crankshaft gearwheel onto the same plane as the camshaft gear¬ wheel.

14. Then fit the crankshaft nose pulley wheel, spacer and damper (photos A and B). 15. The next step is to replace the pulley wheel bolt. 16. Tighten the bolt and prevent the crankshaft from moving by temporarily refitting two bolts to the crank¬ shaft rear flange and holding a strong screwdriver be¬ tween them (photo). 17. It is not advisable to refit the fan at this stage as it maybe damaged when the engine is replaced in the car.

55. Oil pump - replacement 1. Fit the pump and drive shaft to the crankcase (photo). 2. Prime the pump to preclude any possibility of oil starvation when the engine starts. 3. Refit the cover to the pump and tighten down the three securing bolts and washers (photo).

2. Fit the woodruff key to the slot in the crankshaft nose. 3. It is all too easy to fit the sprocket wheel 180° out on the camshaft. The best way of ensuring that the wheel is fitted the right way round is to make certain that the two different slot marks on the back of the wheel correspond with the slots on the front of the camshaft (photo). 4. Lay the camshaft and crankshaft gearwheels on a clean surface so that the two timing marks are adjacent to each other. Slip the timing chain over them and pull the gearwheels back into mesh with the chain so that the timing marks, although further apart, are still adjacent to each other, as in the photo. A special point to note is that should the chain have a removable link (arrowed inphoto), always position it so the spring clip faces for¬ wards. 5. With the timing marks adjacent to each other hold the gearwheels above the crankshaft and camshaft. Turn the camshaft and crankshaft so that the woodruff

38

56. Crankshaft rear seal, housing, end plate and fly¬ wheel - replacement 1. A scroll type crankshaft rear oil seal was used on early models. Later models are fitted with a lip type seal. -—- wut c*. ucw ga.sK.ei witn jointing compound, positioniton the seal housing (photo) and fit the housing to the crankcase, doing up the re¬ taining bolts and spring washers finger tight. 3. Check with a feeler gauge that a gap of 0. 003 inch (0. 076 mm), (aluminium housings only) exists all round the crankshaft journal, tapping the housing with a soft headed hammer until the seal is centralised (photo) Some later models make use of a cast iron housing. This is fitted in just the same way but the clearance should be 0. 002 inch (0. 0508 mm). 4.

To fit the lip type seal, first coat both sides of a

Chapter 1/Engine new gasket with jointing compound and position the gas¬ ket on the crankcase joint face. 5. Press a new seal into the crankshaft housing with the lip of the seal facing the crankshaft. Oil the seal and carefully fit the housing making sure the lip of the seal is not turned over. Replace the housing bolts finger tight, turn the crankshaft over several times to central¬ ise the seal, and tighten the bolts down firmly. Irre¬ spective of what type of seal is used now fit the input shaft bush to the hole in the centre of the crankshaft rear journal (photo). 6. No gasket is fitted between the end plate and the block. Fit the end plate in place and tighten down the bolts and washers (photo). 7. Make certain that the flange on the crankshaft and the face of the flywheel are perfectly clean and offer up the flywheel to the end of the crankshaft. Ensure that the dowel engages into the special hole in the flywheel. Fit new tab washers, tighten down the four retaining bolts and turn up the lock tags. 8. Smear the crankshaft spigot bush with a small quan¬ tity of zinc oxide grease (photo).

57. Sump - replacement 1. After the sump has been thoroughly cleaned, fit the strainer gauge (photo) and turn over the tabs which hold it in place. 2. Scrape all traces of the oil sump gasket from the sump and crankcase flanges and fit a new gasket in place (photo). 3. Then refit the sump (photo). 4. Insert and tighten down the sump bolts and washers (photo).

58. Valve and valve spring - reassembly To refit the valves and valve springs to the cylinder head, proceed as follows:1. Rest the cylinder head on its side. 2. Fit each valve and valve spring in turn, wiping down and lubricating each valve stem as it is inserted into the same valve guide from which it was removed (photo). 3. Build up each valve assembly by first fitting the lower collar (photo). 4. Then fit the valve springs so that the closely coiled portion of each spring is adjacent to the cylinder head (photo). 5. Move the cylinder head towards the edge of the work bench if it is facing downwards and slide it over the edge of the bench so as to fit the bottom half of a valve spring compressor to the valve head. Slide the springs and collar over the valve stem. 6. With the base of the valve compressor on the valve head, compress the valve springs until the collars can be slipped into place in the cotter grooves. Gently re¬ lease the compressor. 7. Repeat this procedure until all twelve valves and valve springs are fitted.

59. Rocker shaft and tappet - reassembly 1. Fit an end cap and pin to one end of the shaft and

40

then slide on the springs, rockers, distance springs, and rocker pedestals in their correct order, as shown in Fig. 1. 8. 2. Make sure that the Phillips screw on the rear rocker pedestal engages properly with the rocker shaft. 3. When all is correctly assembled fit the remaining end cap and oil the components thoroughly. 4. Generously lubricate the tappets internally and ex¬ ternally and insert them in the bores from which they were removed (photo).

60. Cylinder head - replacement 1. Thoroughly clean the cylinder block top face and then refit the cylinder head studs using the double nut method (photo). ‘ 2. Note that the two longer studs must be fitted to the last two holes towards the rear of the block on the right hand side (photo). 3. If it is wished to refit the head before replacing the engine in the car fit a new gasket in place (photo). If one side of the gasket is marked 'TOP' it must naturally be fitted with this side facing upwards. 4. Generously lubricate each cylinder with engine oil (photo). 5. Ensure that the cylinder head face is perfectly clean and then lower the cylinder head into place (photo), keep¬ ing it parallel to the block to avoid binding on any of the studs. 6. With the head now in place any attachments such as lifting eyes or accelerator cable attachments that were previously secured under the cylinder head nuts can be replaced. 7. Fit the cylinder head nuts and washers and tighten down the nuts half a turn at a time in the order shown in Fig. 1. 4 to a torque of 45 lb ft. 8. Insert the pushrods into the block so the ball end rests in the tappet. Ensure the pushrods are replaced in the same order in which they were removed (photo). 9. Then refit the rocker shaft ensuring that the rocker arm ball joints seat in the pushrod cups (photo). 10. Replace the six rocker pedestal nuts and washers and tighten them down evenly (photo).

61. Rocker arm/valve - adjustment 1. The valve adjustments should be made with the en¬ gine cold. The importance of correct rocker arm/valve stem clearances cannot be overstressed as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. 2. If the clearances are set too open, the efficiency of the engine is reduced as the valves open late and close earlier than was intended. If, on the other hand the clearances are set too close there is a danger that the stems will expand upon heating and not allow the valves to close properly. This will cause burning of the valve head and seat, and possible warping. 3. If the engine is in the car, to get at the rockers it is merely necessary to remove the three holding down nuts from the rocker cover, and then to lift the rocker cover and gasket away. 4. It is important that the clearance is set when the tappet of the valve being adjusted is on the heel of the cam, (i.e. opposite the peak). This can be done by

■HI

Chapter 1 /Engine carrying out the adjustments in the following order, which also avoids turning the crankshaft more than ne¬ cessary: Valves fully open Check and adjust Valve Nos. 1 and 3 Valve Nos. 10 and 12 If II " 8 and 11 " 2 and 5 II If " 4 and 6 " 7 and 9 If II " 10 and 12 " 1 and 3 IT 11 " 2 and 5 " 8 and 11 II II " 7 and 9 " 4 and 6 5. The correct clearance of .010 inch is obtained by slackening the hexagonal locknut with a spanner while holding the ball pin against rotation with the screwdriver (photo). Then, still pressing down with the screwdriver, insert a feeler gauge in the gap between the valve stem head and the rocker arm and adjust the ball pin until the feeler gauge will just move in and out without nipping, and, still holding the ball pin in the correct position, tighten the locknut. 6. Analternative method is to set the gaps with the en¬ gine running, and although this may be faster it is no more reliable.

wear on the crankshaft gearwheels, chain and distribu¬ tor drive gear will be very heavy. If new components are being fitted then cut a small notch in the outer edge of the distributor housing flange gasket and bolt the housingdownfirmly. Measure the thickness of the gas¬ ket with a feeler gauge placed in the notch. Then re¬ move the distributor housing and gasket and replace the housing without the gasket. Measure the gap between the underside of the housing flange and the block, Fig. 1. 24, and subtract this latter figure from the former to determine the end float with the standard gasket. 6. Turnthe distributor so the rotor arm is pointing to the terminal in the cap which carries the lead to No. 1 cylinder, and fit the distributor to the distributor hous¬ ing. The lip on the distributor should mate perfectly with the slot in the distributor drive shaft.' Fit the bolt which holds the distributor clamp plate to the housing. 7. Tighten down the two nuts and washers which hold the distributor housing in place. 8. If the clamp bolt on the clamping plate was not pre¬ viously loosened and the distributor body was not turned in the clamping plate, then the ignition timing will be as previously. If the clamping bolt has been loosened, then it will be necessary to re-time the ignition as des¬ cribed in Chapter 4.

62. Distributor and distributor drive - replacement It is important to set the distributor drive correct¬ ly as otherwise the ignition timing will be totally in¬ correct. It is easy to set the distributor drive in ap¬ parently the right position, but in fact exactly 180° out, by omitting to select the correct cylinder which must not only be at T. D. C. but must also be on its firing stroke with both valves closed. The distributor drive should therefore not be fitted until the cylinder head is in position and the valves can be observed. Alternative¬ ly, if the timing cover has not been replaced, the dis¬ tributor drive can be replaced when the marks on the timing wheels are adjacent to each other. In addition, ensure that the leads in the distributor cap are positioned as they should be and that No. 1 lead terminal is adjac¬ ent to the top of the rotor arm. 1. Rotate the crankshaft so that No. 1 piston is at T. D. C. and on its firing stroke. 2. If the timing gear cover has been replaced, this can be achieved by setting the pointer on the timing gear co¬ ver to the 8° B. T. D. C. mark on the pulley wheel (Fig. 1. 21). Turn the oil pump drive shaft so the slot in the top of the shaft is at an angle of 45° with the side of the block (photo). 3. Insert the distributor drive into its housing so that when fully home the slot in the top of the drive is in the position shown in Fig. 1. 22 or Fig. 1. 23 depending on model. In each case the larger segment faces the rear of the engine. It may be necessary to turn the pump rotor shaft to allow the distributor drive to engage fully on 2. 5 P. I. models. 4. It is essential that between 0. 003 inch and 0. 007 inchendfloat exists between the topside of the gear dri¬ ven by the skew gear on the camshaft and the underside of the pedestal hose. If the same components are being used it will be safe to assume that the endfloat is cor¬ rect but ensure the same number of packing washers are used (if any), and always fit a new gasket. The clearance is shown in Fig. 1. 24. 5. If the drive gears are assembled without end fldat

42

63.

Final replacement

The method of engine removal will, to a certain ex¬ tent, govern the method of engine refitting. If the en¬ gine was removed without the cylinder head obviously it will be better to refit the engine to the car first and re¬ place the cylinder head later. Generally speaking en¬ gine refitting is the reverse procedure to removal which¬ ever methodwas used. As replacement is a little more involved inasmuch as the suspension has to be refitted, details of engine refitting without the cylinder head are given:1. With the engine partly assembled it is now ready for refitting to the car. If the engine is not going to be re¬ placed immediately the cylinder head should be tempor¬ arily placed in position, but not tightened down, to stop any dirt or dust finding its way into the cylinders. Re¬ move the head when the engine is ready to be lifted into place. 2. Carefully position the engine on the floor under the engine compartment. 3. Position a rope sling around the front and rear of the engine or as shown in photo use chains and two lifting brackets positioned on the second studs from each end of the engine. Always ensure that the studs are suit¬ ably packed so that the bracket is flush with the top of the cylinder block otherwise the studs will bend. 4. Raise the engine in the engine compartment until the crankshaft is in line with the gearbox first motion shaft as shown in the photo. 5. Carefully move the engine backwards and insert the first motion shaft into the clutch housing until it meets the clutch disc splines. It may be necessary to rotate the flywheel slightly to match the splines before the first motion shaft spigot will enter the crankshaft spigot bearing (photo). 6. Replace the nuts, bolts and washers which secure the gearbox to the engine backplate. 7. Tighten the gearbox rear mounting retaining nuts

60.10

Fig. 1. 21. Timing marks on pulley |i

1. 22. Distributor drive gear setting (Triumph 2000 models)

/

Fig. 1.23. Distributor drive gear setting (2. 5 P. I. Models).

ir

Fig. 1. 24. Distributor drive gear end float

43

Chapter 1/Engine that were previously slackened to allow for gearbox movement (Fig. 1.5).

with a cleanrag and reconnect the metal pipe to the flex¬

8.

under the bracket. Hold the hose steady with a spanner as shown in photo B.

Refit the starter motor to the engine backplate and

also the heavy duty cable to the end of the starter motor (photo).

ible pipe.

29.

Do not twist the hose while tightening the nut

Tighten the suspension cross member to mainframe

9. Refit the clutch slave cylinder mounting bracket to the engine backplate (photo).

member retaining bolts using a socket wrench and ring

10. Offer up the engine cross member to the underside of the car and replace the six nuts and bolts that secure the cross member to the two front main body members (photo).

30. Reconnect the brake pipe retaining clip situated by the rack and pinion steering box as shown in the photo.

11.

The heads of the bolts should be above the front

mainbody member and the outer bolt at each end is fixed through the flange in the wheel arch (photo). 12. The engine earthing cable is attached under the head of the inner left hand rear engine cross member bolt located as shown in the photo.

spanner as shown in the photo.

31. Wipe the ends of the front brake metal pipes where they are connected to the four way connector located un¬ der the battery carrier and re-make the connection (photo). 32. Replace the fan blades and collar onto the front of the crankshaft and fit the four retaining bolts and spring washers (photo).

Tighten the two nuts and bolts that hold the right

33. Holding the blades, tighten the retaining'bolts fully as shown in the photo.

hand engine mounting to the engine cross member, fol¬ lowed by the two nuts and bolts that hold the left hand engine mounting to the engine cross member (photo).

34. Refit the dynamo or alternator onto its mounting bracket (if fitted) but do not tighten the bolts fully at this stage (photo).

14. The engine may now be released from the overhead hoist as well, as all the mountings are now in place. 15. Clean the inside of the strut housing and the sur¬

nuts and spring washers. Reconnect the main fuel line from the tank to the pump (photo).

rounding area of the wing where the top of the strut is mounted.

36. Refit the ignition coil to its mounting on the side^of the cylinder block.

16. Remove all traces of old 'Teleseal' compound from the turret and strut with solvent taking care not to allow any solvent to enter at the top swivel.

37. Replace the ignition distributor and re-time the en¬ gine as detailed in Section 11 of Chapter 4 if this has not already been done.

17. Put some f inch wide 'Teleseal' sealer tape around the top of each strut to stop water entry into the engine compartment.

38.

13.

18. With the assistance of at least one helper pull the front suspension to the front of the car (photo). 19. Tilt the suspension strut backwards, pull the front suspension backwards until the struts can be swung up¬ wards within the wheel arches (photo). 20. Lift the front suspension assembly into position of¬ fering up the studs on top of the struts into their respec¬ tive holes in the strut housing. If the front suspension assembly is placed on a garage hydraulic jack it will assist in final positioning to the body (photo). 21. Replace the three nuts and plain washers to each set of strut studs (photo). 22. Note that the battery earth lead is clamped by the strut stud as shown in photo. Do not fully tighten the nuts at this stage. 23.

Reconnect the rubber coupling to the steering column

where it comes through the bulkhead (photo A), and re¬ place the pinch bolt (photo B). 24.

Centralise the steering wheel and steering rack and

reconnect the steering lower universal coupling to the pinion shaft. 25. Replace the eight nuts and bolts holding the suspen¬ sion cross member to the main frame members. The heads of the bolts should be on top of the packing plate which is placed on the top of the main frame member flanges (photo). yet.

Do not tighten the nuts and bolts fully

26. Tighten the lower universal coupling pinch bolt as shown in the photo.

35.

Replace the fuel pump and tighten the two retaining

It is now time to fit the cylinder head.

Wipe down

the mating faces with a petrol moistened cloth and fit a new cylinder head gasket taking care that it is not fitted upside down (photo). 39. Carefully lower the cylinder head into position tak¬ ing care that the longer studs are not distorted whilst passing through the cylinder head (photo). 40. Replace the cylinder head nuts and washers and first tighten finger tight only. 41. Using a torque wrench set to 45 lb ft tighten the nuts in the pattern shown in Fig. 1. 2 (photo). 42. Fit a new water pump gasket using Hermatite to hold it in position and offer the pump up to the front of the cylinder head as shown in the photo. 43.

It should have been noted in removal that the water

pump bolts were of different lengths. They must be placed back in their original positions. One dynamo or alternator mounting is held by one of the water pump re¬ taining bolts. This is shown in the photo. 44.

Fit a new fan belt if the original has signs of wear

and adjust until there is approximately 1 inch movement of the belt on its longest run. Tighten the adjustment bolt fully, followed by the remaining two bolts (photo). 45.

Wipe down the manifoldface of the cylinder head and

also the faces of the two manifolds.

Fit a new gasket

as shown in the photo taking care not to tear it around me

BIUU IlUltJb.

46. Wipe the exhaust downpipe flange and place a new gasket on the top of the flange (photo). 47.

Position the inlet and exhaust system manifolds on

the side of the cylinder head (photo). stud nuts and spring washers.

Fit the two end

Reconnect the suspension stay attachment to the

48. Assemble to each of the six manifold bolts the thin

suspension arm (photo) and refit the bolt with the head on top. Tighten the retaining nut.

flat washer, larger conical washer (convex side towards the end of the bolt), large retaining clamp (A) and small

27.

28.

W ipe the right and left brake flexible pipe end uniops

clamp (B) as shown in photo A.

Then fit the smaller end

of the clamps into the holes in the head shown arrowed

45

46

47

Chapter 1/Engine in photo B. 49.

be seen the union connection at the rear of the water

Tighten the manifold bolts and clamps starting at

the centre and working outwards until all are tight (photo). 50.

Refit the manifold water hose to the bottom of the

thermostat housing and tighten the clip. Reconnect the temperature sender unit cable to the unit (photo). 51. Reconnect the two rear hoses ensuring that they are curved as shown in the photo. 52.

Refit the exhaust downpipe flange to the exhaust

manifold making sure that the gasket is still in position and tighten the three nuts (photo). 53. Reconnect the fuel line from the carburettor instal¬ lation to the pump at the pump union (photo). 54. Refit the vacuum advance/retard pipe to the ignition distributor, the two or three leads from the rear of the dynamo or alternator and the cable to the SW terminal of the coil (photo). 55. Reconnect the fuel pipe retaining clip to the front of the engine by first undoing the clip retaining bolt as shown in the photo. and refit the bolt.

Thread the bolt through the clip

56. Reconnect the fuel pipe to the front carburettor. Do not bend the pipe more than necessary (photo). Also re¬ fit the accelerator and choke controls. 0?. Refit the distributor advance/retard vacuum pipe to the front carburettor as shown (photo).

pump and this must be replaced and tightened at this stage. 63. Refit the top radiator hose and tighten the retaining clips. 64. Replace the battery and reconnect the terminals. If the ignition has not yet been re-timed it should be done now. Chapter 4. 65.

59. Adjust the rocker arm/valve clearances as detailed in Section 61 of this Chapter. 60. Carefully lower the radiator down into position en¬ suring that the water pump, dynamo or alternator, pul¬ ley and fan blades do not come into contact with the matrix. It will be necessary to tilt the radiator as shown in photos A and B. 61. Replace the four bolts, plain and springwashers, holding the radiator to the front panel. Note that the top right hand bolt acts as a mounting for the horn bracket (photo). Reconnect the horn cable. ^2. With all the radiator mounting bolts in position, re¬ place the hose connecting the bottom of the radiator to the water pump and tighten the clips. In the photo will

48

Clean the spark plugs and reset the electrode gap

as shown in the photo. connect the plug leads. 66.

Then fit the plugs in place and

Fit a new gasket to the rocker cover and carefully

fitthe cover in place (photo).

Replace the washers over

the rocker cover holding down studs ensuring the seal¬ ing washer lies under the flat steel washer. the rocker cover nuts. 67. 15.

Replace

Bleed the brakes as detailed in Chapter 10, Section

68. Reconnect all other hoses, pipes and cables as ne¬ cessary depending on engine ancillary equipment. Full information will be found in the respective chapters dealing with the particular item of equipment. This additional equipment may include some or all of the following:Power assisted steering equipment Petrol injection equipment Servo assisted brakes Carburettor installation Air cleaner system

58. Carefully replace the valve pushrods in the same order as removal. Replace the rocker assembly fol¬ lowed by the pedestal retaining nuts and plain washers. Tighten the nuts evenly half a turn at a time (photo). Double check that rocker arm ball joints have seated correctly in the pushrod cups.

This is described in detail in Section 11 of

69. Particular care must be taken when refitting the petrol injection equipment and reference must be made to the detailed information given in Chapter 3. 70. Finally check that the drain taps are closed and re¬ fill the cooling system with water and the engine with the correct grade of oil. Prime the fuel system, pull out the choke and start the engine - it should fire first time. Allow to idle until it reaches normal operating temperature and check for oil, water and fuel leaks. Allow to cool and check all external nuts and bolts for tightness and that all gaskets and joints used have bedded down correctly. 71.

After 500 miles check the tightness of the cylinder

head nuts with a torque wrench.

Check the rocker arm

to valve stem clearances, and change the oil and the fil¬ ter.

Chapter 1/Engine Engine Torque Wrench Settings Operation Cylinder Block Details Breather pipe attachment. Camshaft chainwheel attachment. Coil attachment. Distributor to pedestal. Distributor clamp pinch bolt . Front engine plate and locating plate to cyl. block Lifting eye attachment. Oil filter assembly . Oil gallery dryseal plug . Oil gallery seals . Oil gallery seals . Oil gallery seals . Oil gallery seals . Oil pump to block . Petrol pump attachment . Rear engine plate to block. Starter motor attachment. Sump to block . Timing cover to front engine plate. Timing cover and front engine plate to cyl. block Crankshaft Details Connecting-rod bolts. Clutch to flywheel . Crankshaft pulley attachment. Fan to pulley. Flywheel to crankshaft. Front sealing block attachment. Main bearing caps to block. Rear main bearing oil seal attachment . Cylinder Head Details Accelerator support bracket to manifold. Air cleaner attachment . Carburettor attachment . Cylinder head attachment. Dynamo - bracket to block. - to adjusting link. - to pedestal. - rear mounting. Manifolds - attachment . - exhaust outlet. - inlet to exhaust . Rocker cover to cylinder head. Rocker oil feed . Rocker pedestal to cylinder head . Water elbow attachment . Water pump pulley attachment. Water pump to cylinder head . 2. 5 Petrol Injection Alternator mounting bracket to cylinder block.. Alternator to mounting bracket. Alternator to adjusting link. Cylinder head attachment. Distributor and P. I. pump pedestal attachment. Distributor and P. I. pump pedestal attachment. Distributor to pedestal. Distributor pedestal end plug. Inlet manifold to stay. Petrol injection nozzle attachment. Water pump plug .. Water pump plug .

Description

Specified Torques lb/ft kg/m

5/16" UNF x 1. 16" stud 5/16" - 24 NF Setscrew 5/16" UNF x |" Setscrew 3" UNF x g" Setscrew £" BSF x 1 5/8" Bolt 5/16" UNF x 7/8" Setscrew 5/16" UNF x 5/8" Setscrew

12-14 24-26 16-18 8-10

3- 4 18-20 16-18 15-18

10-12 £" NPSI Plug 25-30 7/16" UNF x |" Setscrew 25-30 |" UNF x £" Plug 25-30 |" NF x 0. 38" Core Plugs 5- 6 1/8" NPSI Plug 8-10 UNF x 3" Bolt 12-14 5/16" UNF x 1. 16" 18-20 5/16" UNF x |" Setscrew 28-30 3/8" UNF x 2l/8" Bolt 16-18 5/16" UNF x 5/8" Setscrew 5/16" UNF x 3/8" Pan-head Setscrew 8-10 16-18 5/16" UNF x 7/8" Setscrew

1.659-1.936 3.318-3.595 2. 212-2. 489 1.106-1.383 0.415-0. 553 2.489-2. 765 2. 212-2. 489 2. 074-2.489 1.383-1.659 3.456-4.148 3. 456-4. 148 3.456-4.148 0. 692-0. 829 1.106-1.383 1. 659-1.936 2.489-2.765 3.871-4.148 2. 212-2.489 1. 106-1. 383 2. 212-2. 489

5. 254-5. 807 2. 765 90-100 12.443-13. 825 1.659-1. 936 12-14 5. 807-6. 360 42-46 1. 659-1. 936 12-14 7. 604-8. 295 55-60 2. 212-2. 489 16-18

3/8" UNF x 1. 69” Bolt 5/16" UNC x |" Setscrew 5/8" UNF x 2g" Bolt 5/16" UNF Bolts 3/8" x 24 TPI Bolt 5/l6"UNF x 0. 94" Ch. Head Screw 7/16" UNF x 3” Bolt 5/16” UNF x 1 l/8" Bolt

38-42

5/16" UNF x |" Setscrew 5/16" UNF x 2 l/g" Bolt 5/16" UNF x lg" Stud 3/8" UNF Studs 5/16" UNF x 35"Setscrew 5/16” UNC x 7/8" Setscrew 5/16" UNF x 1 n/32" Bolt 5/16" UNF x If" Bolt 3/8" UNF Bolt 5/16" UNF x 1. 31" Stud 3/8" UNF x 1. 56" Stud 5/16" UNF x 4. 13" Stud 5/16" UNF x 3/8" Setscrew 3/8" UNF x 3. 09" Stud 5/16" UNF Bolt 5/16" UNF Nyloc Nut 5/16" UNF Bolts

18-20 6- 8 12-14 42-46 16-18 18-20 18-20 18-20

5/16" UNF x 1" Setscrew 5/16" UNF x 4 7/g" Bolt 5/16" UNC x 7/8" Setscrew 7/16" UNF x 4. 84" Stud 5/16" UNF x 2|" stud 5/16" UNF x 1. 31" Stud 5/16" UNF x 5/8" Setscrew £" UNF x 5" Setscrew £" UNF x |" Setscrew £" UNC x 3/8" Setscrew 3/8" UNF Dryseal plug 5/8" UNF Plug

18-20 18-20 18-20 65-70 12-14 12-14 18-20

20

20-22

14-16 20-22

ii 16-18 24-26 18-20 14-16 18-20

8-10 8-10

-

6

8

20-22

28-30

2. 489-2. 765 0. 829-1. 106 1. 659-1. 936 5.807-6.360 2.212-2. 489 2. 489-2. 765 2.489-2. 765 2. 489-2. 765 2.765-3. 042 1. 936-2.212 2.765-3.042 0. 207 2. 212-2.489 3.318-3. 595 2.489-2. 765 1. 936-2. 212 2.489-2. 765

2. 490-2. 770 2. 490-2. 770 2.490-2. 770 8.987-9.678 1. 660-1. 940 1.660-1. 940 2.490-2. 770 1.110-1.380 1.110-1.380 0.830-1. 110 2.770-3. 040 3.870-4. 150

49

Fault Finding Chart - Engine Cause

Trouble

Remedy

SYMPTOM: ENGINE FAILS TO TURN OVER WHEN STARTER BUTTON OPERATED No current at starter motor Flat or defective battery Charge or replace battery. Push-start Loose battery leads Defective starter solenoid or switch or broken wiring.

Current at starter motor

Engine earth strap disconnected Jammed starter motor drive pinion

Defective starter motor SYMPTOM: ENGINE TURNS OVER BUT WILL NOT START No spark at sparking plug Ignition damp or wet Ignition leads to spark plugs loose Shorted or disconnected low tension leads Dirty, incorrectly set, or pitted con¬ tact breaker points Faulty condenser Defective ignition switch Ignition leads connected wrong way round Faulty coil Contact breaker point spring earthed or broken

No fuel at carburettor float chamber or at jets

No petrol in petrol tank Vapour lock in fuel line. (In hot cond¬ itions or at high altitude) Blocked float chamber needle valve Fuel pump filter blocked Choked or blocked carburettor jets Faulty fuel pump

Excess of petrol in cylinder or car¬ burettor flooding

Too much choke allowing too rich a mixture to wet plugs Float damaged or leading or needle not seating Float lever incorrectly adjusted

SYMPTOM: ENGINE STALLS AND WILL NOT START No spark at sparking plug Ignition failure - Sudden

No fuel at jets

Ignition failure - Misfiring precludes total stoppage Ignition failure - In severe rain or after traversing water splash No petrol in petrol tank Petrol tank breather choked Sudden obstruction in carburettor(s) Water in fuel system

SYMPTOM: ENGINE MISFIRES OR IDLES UNEVENLY Intermittent sparking at sparking Ignition leads loose plug

50

Tighten both terminals and earth ends of earth lead. Run a wire direct from the battery to the starter motor or by-pass the sole¬ noid. Check and retighten strap. Place car in gear and rock from side to side. Alternatively, free exposed square end of shaft with spanner. Remove and recondition.

Wipe dry the distributor cap and igni¬ tion leads. Check and tighten at both spark plug and distributor cap ends. Check the wiring on the CB and SW terminals of the coil and to the distri¬ butor. Clean, file smooth, and adjust. Check contact breaker points for arcing, remove and fit new. By-pass switch with wire. Remove and replace leads to spark plugs in correct order. Remove and fit new coil. Check spring is not touching metal part of distributor. Check insulator washers are correctly placed. Renew points if the spring is broken. Refill tank! Blow into petrol tank, allow engine to cool, or apply a cold wet rag to the fuel line. Remove, clean, and replace. Remove, clean, and replace. Dismantle and clean. Remove, overhaul, and replace. Check CB points on S.U. pumps. Remove and dry sparking plugs or with wide open throttle, push-start the car. Remove, examine, clean and replace float and needle valve as necessary. Remove and adjust correctly.

Check over low and high tension cir¬ cuits for breaks in wiring. Check contact breaker points, clean and adjust. Renew condenser if faulty. Dry out ignition leads and distributor cap. Refill tank. Remove petrol cap and clean out breather hole or pipe. Check jets, filter, and needle valve in float chamber for blockage. Drain tank and blow out fuel lines.

Check and tighten as necessary at spark plug and distributor cap ends.

Fault Finding Chart - Engine Cause

Trouble

SYMPTOM: ENGINE MISFIRES OR IDLES UNEVENLY Intermittent sparking at sparking Battery leads loose on terminals plug Battery earth strap loose on body attachment point Engine earth lead loose Low tension leads to SW and CB terminals on coil loose Low tension lead from CB terminal side to distributor loose Dirty, or incorrectly gapped plugs Dirty, incorrectly set, or pitted con¬ tact breaker points Tracking across inside of distribu¬ tor cover Ignition too retarded Faulty coil Fuel shortage at engine Mixture too weak

Air leak in carburettor(s) Air leak at inlet manifold to cylinder head, or inlet manifold to carburettor Mechanical wear

Incorrect valve clearances Burnt out exhaust valves Sticking or leaking valves Weak or broken valve springs Worn valve guides or stems Worn pistons and piston rings

SYMPTOM: LACK OF POWER AND POOR COMPRESSION Fuel/air mixture leaking from cylinder Burnt out exhaust valves Sticking or leaking valves Worn valve guides and stems Weak or broken valve springs Blown cylinder head gasket. (Accom¬ panied by increase in noise) Worn pistons and piston rings Worn or scored cylinder bores Incorrect adjustments

Ignition timing wrongly set. Too ad¬ vanced or retarded Contact breaker points incorrectly gapped Incorrect valve clearances Incorrect set sparking plugs Carburation too rich or too weak

Carburation and ignition faults

Dirty contact breaker points Fuel filters blocked causing top end fuel starvation Distributor automatic balance weights or vacuum advance and retard mech¬ anisms not functioning correctly Faulty fuel pump giving top end fuel starvation

Remedy

Check and tighten terminal leads. Check and tighten earth lead to body attachment point. Tighten lead. Check and tighten leads if found loose. Check and tighten if found loose. Remove, clean, and regap. Clean, file smooth, and adjust. Remove and fit new cover. Check and adjust ignition timing. Remove and fit new coil. Check jets, float chamber needle valve, and filters for obstruction. Clean as necessary. Carburettor(s) incorrectly adjusted. Remove and overhaul carburettor. Test by pouring oil along joints. Bub¬ bles indicate leak. Renew manifold gas¬ ket as appropriate. Adjust rocker arms to take up wear. Remove cylinder head and renew def¬ ective valves. Remove cylinder head, clean, check and renew valves as necessary. Check and renew as necessary. Renew valve guides and valves. Dismantle engine, renew pistons and rings.

Remove cylinder head, renew defective valves. Remove cylinder head, clean, check, and renew valves as necessary. Remove cylinder head and renew valves and valve guides. Remove cylinder head, renew defective spnqgs. Remove cylinder head and fit new gasket. Dismantle engine, renew pistons and rings. Dismantle engine, rebore, renew pistons and rings. Check and reset ignition timing. Check and reset contact breaker points. Check and reset rocker arm to valve stem gap. Remove, clean and regap. Tune carburettor(s) for optimum per¬ formance. Remove, clean, and replace. Dismantle, inspect, clean, and replace all fuel filters. Overhaul distributor.

Remove, overhaul, or fit exchange re¬ conditioned fuel pump.

51

Fault Finding Chart - Engine Cause

Trouble

SYMPTOM: EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION Oil being burnt by engine Badly worn, perished or missing valve stem oil seals Excessively worn valve stems and valve guides Worn piston rings Worn pistons and cylinder bores

Oil being lost due to leaks

Excessive clearances due to mech¬ anical wear

Excessive piston ring gap allowing blow-by Piston oil return holes choked Leaking oil filter gasket Leaking rocker cover gasket Leaking tappet chest gasket Leaking timing case gasket Leaking sump gasket Loose sump plug

Worn valve gear. (Noisy tapping from rocker box) Worn big end bearing. (Regular heavy knocking)

Worn timing chain and gears (Ratt¬ ling from front of engine) Worn main bearings. (Rumbling and vibration)

Worn crankshaft. (Knocking, rum¬ bling and vibration)

52

Remedy

Remove, fit new oil seals to valve stems. Remove cylinder head and fit new valves and valve guides. Fit oil control rings to existing pistons or purchase new pistons. Fit new pistons and rings, rebore cyl¬ inders. Fit new piston rings and set gap correctly. Decarbonise engine and pistons. Inspect and fit new gasket as necessary. - ditto - ditto » -ditto - ditto Tighten, fit new gasket if necessary.

Inspect and renew rocker shaft, rocker arms, and ball pins as necessary. Drop sump, if bearings broken up clean out oil pump and oilways, fit new bear¬ ings. If bearings not broken but worn fit bearing shells. Remove timing cover, fit new timing wheels and timing chain. Drop sump, remove crankshaft, if bear¬ ings worn but not broken up, renew. If broken up strip oil pump and clean out Regrind crankshaft, fit new main and big end bearings.

Chapter 2/Cooling System Contents General description.

1

Water pump - removal and replacement.

Routine maintenance.

2

Water pump - dismantling and reassembly.

Cooling system - draining. Cooling system - flushing. Cooling system - filling . Radiator - removal, inspection, cleaning and

3 4 5

Anti-freeze mixture. Temperature gauge - fault finding. Temperature gauge and sender unit - removal

replacement.. Thermostat - removal, testing and replacement

6 7

and replacement. Fan belt - adjustment. Fan belt - removal and replacement.

...

Specifications Type of system.

Pressurised.

.

Thermostat Pre engine number 4477 Starts to open ...

Pump impeller and fan assisted

69° to 74°C (156° - 165°F) 85°C (185°F)

Fully open. From engine number 4477 Starts to open ...

79. 5° to 83. 5°C (175° to 183°F) 93. 5° to 96°C (200° to 205°F)

Fully open. Pressure cap opens.

7 lb/sq. in.

Fan blades.

6 blades (T2000)

Tension of fan belt

f in. to 1 in. movement midway between dynamo or alter¬

.

8 blades (T2. 5 P.I.)

nator and crankshaft pulley wheels. Type of water pump.

Centrifugal

Water pump drive

•••

...

...

•••

...

...

Belt from crankshaft pulley

Capacity of cooling system..

•••

...

•••

,,.

with heater and expansion bottle 132 pts 7. 7 litres, 16 U. S# pints

Torque wrench settings Water outlet elbow nuts ... Water pump to cylinder block Water pump pulley attachment

18 to 20 lb ft (2. 480 - 2. 765 Kgm) 18 to 20 lb ft (2. 489 - 2. 765 Kgm) 14 to 16 lb ft (1. 659 - 1. 936 Kgm)

Approved Anti-Freeze Solutions Smiths Bluecol, BP Anti-Frost, Castrol Anti-Freeze, Duckhams Anti-Freeze, Esso Anti-Freeze, Mobil Permazone, Fina Thermidor, Regent P. T. Anti-Freeze and Shell Anti-Freeze. Where these proprietary solutions are not available, others which meet BSI 3151 or 3152 specifications may bo¬ used.

Chapter 2/Cooling System

General description

grease gun supplied.

On later models a grease nipple

is fitted as standard. Do not overgrease or the seal may The engine cooling water is circulated by a thermo¬ syphon, water pump assisted system and the coolant is

be rendered in-operative.

Replace the plug and screw

down.

pressurised. This is to prevent both the loss of water down the overflow pipe with the radiator cap in position and premature boiling in adverse conditions. The radiator cap is pressured and increases the

3. Cooling system - draining 1.

With the car on level ground drain the system as

boiling point to approximately 225°F. If the water temperature exceeds this figure and the water boils, the pressure in the system forces the internal part of the

follows 2. If the engine is cold remove the filler cap from the

cap off its seat, thus exposing the overflow pipe down which the steam from the boiling water escapes con¬ densing in the overflow bottle and thus relieving the

gine is hot having just been run, then turn the filler cap very slightly until the pressure in the system has had

radiator by turning the cap anti-clockwise.

If the en¬

pressure. It is, therefore, important to check that the radi¬ ator cap is in good condition and that the spring behind the sealing washer has not weakened. Most garages have special equipment on which radiator caps can be tested.

time to disperse. Use a rag over the cap to protect your hand from escaping steam. If, with the'engine very hot, the cap is released suddenly, the drop in pressure

The cooling system comprises the radiator, top and bottom water hoses, heater hoses, the impeller, water pump, the thermostat, the two drain taps and six bladed fan which is rubber mounted on an extension of the crankshaft. The inlet manifold is heated by water from the pump.

bucket or bowl for re-use. 4. Open the two drain taps and ensure the heater con¬ trol is in the hot position. On later models drain plugs may be fitted instead of taps. Remove the plugs with a

The system functions in the following manner: Cold water in the bottom of the radiator circulates up the lo¬ wer radiator hose as shown in Fig. 2.1 to the water pump where it is pushed round the water passages in the cylinder block, helping to keep the cylinder bores and pistons cool. The water then travels up into the cylinder head and circulates round the combustion spaces and valve seats absorbing more heat, and then, when the engine is at its proper operating temperature, travels out of the cy¬ linder head, past the open thermostat into the upper ra¬ diator hose and so onto the radiator header tank. The water travels down the radiator where it is ra¬ pidly cooled by the in-rush of cold air through the radi¬ ator core, which is created by both the fan and the mo¬ tion of the car. The water, now cold, reaches the bot¬ tom of the radiator, when the cycle is repeated. When the engine is cold the thermostat (which is a valve which opens and closes according to the tempera¬ ture of the water) maintains the circulation of the same water in the engine. Only when the correct minimum operating temper¬ ature has been reached, as shown in the specification, does the thermostat begin to open, allowing water to re¬ turn to the radiator.

can result in the water boiling. With the pressure re¬ leased the cap can be removed. 3. If anti-freeze is in the radiator drain it into a clean

spanner. The drain taps/plugs are located at the bottom of the radiator (Fig. 2.2. right) and at the rear on the right hand side of the block. 5. When the water has finished running, probe the drain tap orifices with a short piece of wire to dislodge any particles of rust or sediment which may be blocking the taps and preventing all the water draining out.

4. Cooling system - flushing 1.

clear the system out, remove the radiator cap and the drain taps and leave a hose running in the radiator cap orifice for ten to fifteen minutes. 2.

1.

Then close the drain taps and refill with water and

a proprietary cleansing compound.

Run the engine for

tentofifteen minutes and then drain it and flush out thor¬ oughly for a further ten minutes. All sediment and sludge should now have been, removed. 3.

In very bad cases the radiator should be reverse

flushed.

This can be done with the radiator in position.

The cylinder block tap is closed and a hose placed over the open radiator drain tap.

Water, under pressure, is

then forced up through the radiator and out of the header tank filler orifice. 4.

2. Routine maintenance

With time the cooling system will gradually lose its

efficiency as the radiator becomes choked with rust scales, deposits from water and other sediment. To

The hose is then removed and placed in the filler

orifice and the radiator washed out in the usual fashion.

Check the level of the water in the radiator once a

week or more frequently if necessary, and top up with a soft water (rain water is excellent), as required. The

5. Cooling system - filling

radiator cap is shown in Fig. 2. 2. (left).

1.

Close the two drain taps.

2.

2.

Fill the system slowly to ensure that no air locks

Once every 6,000 miles check the fan belt forwear

and correct tension and renew or adjust the belt as ne¬ cessary (see Sections 13 and 14 for details).

develop. Check that the valve to the heater unit is open,

3.

type of water to use in the cooling system is rain water, so use this whenever possible.

Once every 12, 000 miles unscrew the plug (Fig. 20,

Routine maintenance, Page 9) from the top of the water pump, fit a grease nipple and give fivp strokes with the

54

otherwise an air lock may form in the heater. The best

3.

Do not fill the system higher than within \ inch of

Fig. 2. 1. The cooling system water flow

Fig. 2.3. RADIATOR CAP COMPONENT PARTS No. Description No. Description 4 Pressure valve seal 1 Spring friction plate 5 Vacuum valve seal 2 Retaining lugs 6 Header tank 3 Pressure release pipe Fig. 2. 2. The radiator cap (left) and drain tap (right).

55

Chapter 2/Cooling System the filler orifice.

Overfilling will merely result in

5.

Discard the thermostat if it opens too early.

Con¬

wastage, which is especially to be avoided when anti¬ freeze is in use.

tinue heating the water until the thermostat is fully open.

4. Use anti-freeze mixture only with a glycerine or ethylene base.

not open fully in boiling water, or does not close down as the water cools, then it must be exchanged for a new

5. Replace the filler cap and turn it firmly clockwise to lock it in position.

one. 6. If the thermostat is stuck open when cold this will be apparent when removing it from the housing.

Then let it cool down naturally.

7. 6. Radiator - removal,

inspection, cleaning and re¬

placement

If the thermostat will

Replacing the thermostat is a reversal of the re¬

moval procedure. Remember to use anew paper gasket between the thermostat housing elbow and the thermostat. Renew the thermostat elbow if it is badly corroded.

1. To remove the radiator first drain the cooling sys¬ tem as described in Section 3. 2. Disconnect the radiator overflow pipe from the water bottle.

8. Water pump - removal and replacement

3. Undo the jubilee clips (7) Fig. 2.4. holding the top (1) and bottom hoses (8) to the radiator (4), and pull the hoses off their connections.

1.

4. Undo and remove the four bolts (6) and washers which hold the radiator in place. 5. Carefully lift up the radiator and tilt back slightly to allow for clearance of the fan blades and water pump. Very great care must be taken whilst removing the radiator otherwise serious damage could result if the ma¬ trix is distorted or perforated. 6.

With the radiator out of the car any leaks can be soldered up or repaired with a compound such as 'Cataloy'. Clean out the inside of the radiator by flushing as detailed in Section 4. When the radiator is out of the car it is advantageous to turn it upside down for re¬ verse flushing. Clean the exterior of the radiator by hosing down the radiator matrix with a strong jet of water to clean away road dirt, dead flies etc. 7. Inspect the radiator hoses for cracks, internal or external perishing and damage caused by overtightening of the securing clips. Replace the hoses as necessary. Examine the radiator hose securing clips and renew them if they are rusted or distorted. The drain taps should be renewed if leaking, but ensure the leak is not resulting from afaulty washer behind the tap. If the tap is suspected try a new washer to see if this clears the trouble first.

If the water pump is badly worn the normal practice

is to fit an exchange reconditioned unit. Drain the cool¬ ing system as described in Section 3 and slacken the dy¬ namo or alternator mounting bolts so that the fan belt can be removed. 2. Pull off the Lucar connector from the temperature sender unit (5), Fig. 2. 8, and disconnect the top, bottom and manifold water jacket hoses at the water pump body by undoing the jubilee clips. 3. If a heater is fitted to the car disconnect the return pipe union at the rear of the pump body. 4. Remove the three water pump mounting bolts (26, 27, 28) making a note that they are all different lengths and must be refitted in their original positions. Observe that the dynamo or alternator adjusting bracket is held in position by one of the bolts and also a clip which sup¬ ports the fuel and vacuum advance pipes. 5. Lift away the water pump followed by its gasket (7) from the front of the cylinder head. 6.

Replacement is a straightforward reversal of the removal procedure, but always fit a new gasket when replacing. Note that the fan belt tension must be cor¬

rect when all is reassembled. If the belt is too tight, undue strain will be placed on the water pump and dy¬ namo/alternator bearings, and if the belt is too loose it will slip and wear rapidly as well as giving rise to low electrical output from the dynamo/alternator.

8.

Replacement is a straightforward reversal of the removal procedure. 9. Water pump - dismantling and reassembly 7. Thermostat - removal, testing and replacement

1. If it is wished to repair the pump, first ascertain that spare parts are available, as less and less firms

1. To remove the thermostat, partially drain the cool¬ ing system (4 pints is enough), loosen the upper radia¬ tor hose at the thermostat elbow end and pull it off the

stock spare parts as opposed to rebuilt pumps units. (References are to Fig. 2. 8).

elbow. Disconnect the wire from the Lucar connector on the sender unit (5), Fig. 2. 8, on models where the sender unit is in the thermostat cover.

ley (21) in place and with the aid of an extractor pull off the pulley wheel and prise out the woodruff key (24).

2. Unscrew the two set bolts (1,4) and spring washers from the thermostat housing (2) and lift the housing and paper gasket (3) away. 2. 5).

Take out the thermostat (Fig.

3. Test the thermostatfor correct functioning by dang¬ ling it by a length of string in a saucepan of cold water together with a thermometer. Heat the water and note when the thermostat begins to open. This temperature is stamped on the flange of the thermostat, and is also given in the specifications an page 53.

56

2.

Undo the nuc and washer (19, 20) which hold the pul¬

3. Undo the three nuts and spring washers which hold the bearing housing (13) to the pump body (8) and pull out the bearing housing. 4. With the aid of a vice and an extractor pull the im¬ peller (9) off the spindle (14). Remove the sealing gland (11) from the back of the impeller (9). 5.

Remove the bearing retaining circlip (22) from the

base of the housing and pull out the spindle complete with bearings. The bearings (18), distance piece (17), circlip (23), washer (16) and bearing seal (15) can now all be removed. 6.

If the pump is badly worn the bearings will require

Fig. 2. 4. RADIATOR COMPONENTS No. Description No. Description 9 Drain tap 1 Top hose 10 Bottle strap 2 Clip 11 Setscrew 3 Filler cap 12 Overflow bottle 4 Header tank 13 Cap 5 Nut 14 Grommet 6 Setscrew 15 Pipe 7 Clip 16 Overflow pipe 8 Bottom hose

Fig. 2. 5. Thermostat removal

Fig. 2. 7. WATER PUMP IMPELLER CLEARANCE No. Description No. Description B 0. 030 inch (0. 762 mm) clear¬ A Impeller soldered to the ance soindle Fig. 2.6.

PARTS REQUIRING ATTENTION FOR WATER PUMP REMOVAL No. Description No. Description 18 Lower water pump mounting 14 Manifold water jacket hose bolt clip 19 Fuel line clip retained by water 15 Thermostat housing water pump mounting bolt elbow clip 20 Heater return pipe unionat rear 16 Top hose clip of water pump 17 Dynamo or alternator ad¬ 21 Bottom hose clip justment bracket bolt

57

Chapter 2/Cooling System renewal and the gland face on the housing to be re-cut. This job is for a TRIUMPH garage oryour local engine¬ ering works. A new sealing gland and bearing spinner, to¬ gether with a new gasket, must also be obtained. 7. Reassembly of the water pump is a reversal of the above sequences. The following additional points should be noted.

2. To remove the sender unit disconnect the battery, pull off the wire at the snap connector on the unit, and undo the unit with a spanner. On replacement renew the fibre washer to prevent the possibility of leaks develop¬ ing.

8. Position the bearings so that their unshielded sides are adjacent to the distance piece and the grease seal faces outwards. Pack the bearings and area around the distance piece with grease. 9. The shaft and bearings are fitted to the housingwith the aid of a drift made from a piece of tubing. 10. Press the impeller onto the spindle until a 0. 030 inch clearance measured with a feeler gauge exists be¬ tween the flat face of the spindle and the housing. This is shown in Fig. 2. 7. The impeller should then be sol¬ dered to the shaft to prevent water seepage down the spindle. 11. Re-grease the water pump on completion of the as¬ sembling operations.

13. Fan belt - adjustment

10.

Anti-freeze mixture

1. In circumstances where it is likely that the temper¬ ature will drop to below freezing it is essential that some of the water is drained and an adequate amount of ethylene glycol anti-freeze such as Bluecol added to the cooling system. 2. If Bluecol is not available any anti-freeze which conforms with specifications B.S. 3151 or B.S. 3152 can be used. Never use an anti-freeze with an alcohol base as evaporation is too high. 3. Bluecol anti-freeze with an anti-corrosion additive can be left in the cooling systemfor up to two years, but after six months it is advisable to have the specific gra¬ vity of the coolant checked at your local garage, and thereafter once every three months. 4. For quantities of anti-freeze mixtures required to safeguard the system at specific temperatures consult the manufacturers own recommendations.

11. Temperature gauge - fault finding

1. If the temperature gauge fails to work, either the gauge, the sender unit, the wiring, or the connections are at fault. 2. It is not possible to repair the gauge or the sender unit and they must be replaced by new units if at fault. 3. First check the wiring connections and if sound check the wiring for breaks using an ohmmeter. The sender unit and gauge should be tested by substitution.

12.

Temperature gauge and sender unit - removal and replacement

1. For details of how to remove and replace the tem¬ perature gauge see Chapter 11, Section 48.

58

1. It is important to keep the fan belt correctly ad¬ justed and although not listed by the manufacturer, it is considered that this should be a regular maintenance task performed every 6, 000 miles. 2. If the belt is too loose it will slip, wear rapidly, and cause the dynamo/alternator and water ppmpto mal¬ function. If the belt is too tight the dynamo/alternator and water pump bearings will wear rapidly causing pre¬ mature failure of these components. 3. The fan belt tension is correct when there is § inch of lateral movement at the midpoint position of the belt between the dynamo/alternator pulley wheel and the crankshaft pulley wheel. 4. To adjust the fan belt, slacken the dynamo/4lternatot: securing bolts and move the dynamo/alternator either in or out until the correct tension is obtained. It is easier if the dynamo/alternator bolts are only slackened a little so it requires some force to move the dynamo/ alternator. In this way the tension of the belt can be arrived at more quickly than by making frequent adjust¬ ments. 5. With the dynamo /alternator bolts only slightly loosened, difficulty may be experienced in moving the dynamo/alternator away from the engine. A long span¬ ner placed behind the dynamo/alternator and resting against the block serves as a very good lever and can be held in this position while the dynamo/alternator bolts are tightened. On no account over-tighten the fan belt. It is better for the belt to be too loose than too tight.

14. Fan belt - removal and replacement 1. If the fan belt is worn or has stretched unduly it should be replaced. The most usual reason for replace¬ ment is that the belt has broken in service. It is there¬ fore recommended that a spare belt is always carried. Replacement is a reversal of the removal sequence but as replacement due to breakage is the most usual oper¬ ation it is described below. 2. Loosen the two dynamo /alternator pivot bolts and the nut on the adjusting link and push the dynamo/alter¬ nator in towards the engine. 3. Slip the belt over the crankshaft, dynamo/alternator and water pump pulleys. 4 Adjust the belt as described in the previous section and tighten the dynamo/alternator mounting nuts. NOTE: After fitting a new belt it will require adjustment 250 miles later.



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115

Chapter 6/Gearbox

the drain plug. 4. From inside the car (referring to Fig. 6. 3) undo and remove the four self tapping screws holding the console

4. Gearbox - dismantling

tray (1) in position on the console surround (8). 5. Undo the gear lever knob locknut (3) and unscrew the knob (2) followed by the nut (3). Also remove the

gearbox carefully follow the photographs as well as the

rubber grommet (4). 6. Undo the ten self tapping screws that hold the con¬ sole surround (8) in position. Lift up the rear of the

control and top cover onto the top of the gearbox (photo). four longer bolts are to the front and rear of the top co¬

console surround and withdraw backwards. 7. Unscrew the four self tapping screws holding the cover plate (6) in position and remove the cover plate

ver. 2. Lift away the remote control and top cover from the top of the gearbox noting the gasket placed between the

and sponge rubber seal (7). 8. Remove the cross bolt (9) and lift the gear lever up and away from the remote control housing. Note that there is a spring and plunger located in the striker end of the gear lever and care must be taken not to lose

two parts (photo). 3. Refer to Figs. 6.1 and 6. 2 and remove the speed¬ ometer drive from the side of the extension housing

them. 9. From underneath the car undo the speedometer cable connection from the side of gearbox or overdrive unit (if fitted). 10. Release the two Lucar connections at the reverse light switch. Also disconnect the electrical connections from the overdrive switch and solenoid units, first noting the cable colours for correct reconnecting. 11. Disconnect the exhaust downpipe flange from the ex¬

NOTE: When dismantling or reassembling the exploded diagrams. 1. Undo the eight

5

A. F. bolts that hold the'remote

Lift away the bolts and spring washers noting that the

(items 95, 96,97). 4. Extract the split pin from the slotted nut (42) and undo the nut from the end of the mainshaft (32). Lift away the nut (42) followed by the plain washer (41). 5. Carefully tap the flange (40) using a soft faced ham¬ mer, fromthe rear of the gearbox extension. Using a pair of circlip pliers or a small screw¬ driver remove the circlip (39) from the end of the main6.

shaft. 7. Undo the bolts (98) holding the extension housing (90) to the rear of the gearbox and remove the bolts and

haust manifold by undoing the three retaining nuts. Note that there is a gasket placed between the flange and

spring washers. 8. Carefully tap the extension housing with a soft faced

manifold. Also release the exhaust system intermedi¬ ate mounting located near to the side of the gearbox. 12. Scribe a line across the gearbox drive flange and the front universal joint flange to ensure the propeller shaft is replaced on reassembly in the same position re¬ lative to the gearbox. Undo the four propeller shaft un¬ iversal joint coupling flange bolts at the rear of the gearbox. Carefully lower the end of the propeller shaft to the ground. Carefully disconnect the clutch slave cylinder pushrod yoke from the clutch cross shaft in the

hammer to break the joint, and withdraw the extension

bell housing.

of the overdrive unit the overdrive unit will automatic¬ ally separate, this being controlled by the two long studs situated on either side of the unit (photo). 11. Note that there are eight springs in the front of the overdrive unit and that the upper and lowermost rows have springs of slightly longer length than the remain¬ der (photo). Although the four inner springs look as if

Note into which hole in the cross shaft

lever the clevis pin fits. 13. Using a jack, axle stand or other suitable means, support the weight of the engine and gearbox by position¬ ing the support towards the rear of the sump.

Use a

block of wood to spread the load. 14. Undo the four nyloc nuts holding the gearbox rear mounting (13), (Fig. 6. 4), to the body. Remove the nuts, plain and spring washers. 15. Carefully lower the gearbox by about six inches at the rear of the gearbox and remove the two mounting bracket nuts (14), (Fig. 6. 5), and the anti-vibration strap (15) from the gearbox. 16. Release the exhaust pipe joint clip situated at the rear of the gearbox and completely remove the first section of the exhaust system. 17. Undo the nuts and bolts securing the gearbox bell housing to the engine backplate and take the weight of the gearbox. Do not, under any circumstances, allow it to hang on the first motion shaft. Carefully withdraw the gearbox towards the rear and when the first motion shaft is clear of the clutch assembly lower the gearbox and lift away from the underside of the car. 18.

Refitting the gearbox is the reverse sequence to re¬

moval.

Refill with 2g pints (with overdrive 4g pints) of

recommended grade oil.

116

housing (90) and gasket (89). 9. If an overdrive unit is fitted to the gearbox undo the A. F. nuts which hold the overdrive unit to the end of the gearbox casing. This should be done in a diagonal

\

manner as there are strong springs which will automat¬ ically separate the two parts and if the pressure is not even the mating flanges could be strained. Remove the nuts and spring washers (photo). 10. Under the action of the strong springs in the front

they are longer they are merely further forward. 12. Cut the locking wire securing the square headed bolt which locates the clutch release fork to the cross shaft (photo). 13. Undo the square headed bolt and completely remove (photo). 14.

Pull the release bearing forwards so disengaging it

from the clutch release fork and completely remove it (photo). 15.

To release the cross shaft undo the bolt which locks

it in position, situated on the right hand side of the clutch housing on the cross shaft bush housing. 16.

Pull the shaft from the side of the bell housing and

at the same time pull the release fork from the shaft. The release fork can be a tight fit on the shaft but with care it can be removed (photo). 17. Undo the four bolts that hold the front cover to the front of the gearbox casing (photo). and spring washers. 18.

Lift away the bolts

Remove the front cover and its gasket making a

No. Description 1 Console tray 2 Gear lever knob 3 Locknut

Fig. 6. 3. GEAR LEVER CONSOLE PARTS No. Description No. Description 6 Cover plate 4 Rubber grommet 7 Sponge rubber seal 5 Gear lever

Fig. 6.4. GEARBOX CROSSMEMBER No. Description No. Description 12 Exhaust pipe bracket 10 Propeller shaft universal 13 Gearbox crossmember moun¬ coupling bolts 11 Exhaust pipe bracket ting parts

iimol iiMtrrO

No. Description 8 Surround 9 Cross bolt

Fig. 6. 5. GEARBOX MOUNTING ONTO CROSS MEMBER No. Description No. Description 14 Mounting nuts and bolts 15 Anti-vibration strap

vi mrri o

117

Chapter 6/Gearbox note that there is a small cut out on the gasket and front

40. The laygear may be dismantled by sliding off the

cover which matches an oil hole in the gearbox casing by the ball race (photo).

gears and bushing from the splined layshaft hub (photo).

19. Undo the two bolts that hold the layshaft coverplate to the front of the gearbox (photo). Lift away the bolts, spring washer, cover plate and gasket.

5. Gearbox - examination and renovation

20. On gearboxes fitted with overdrive unit an adaptor plate is fitted to the rear end. retaining bolts (photo).

Undo the six adaptor plate

21. Gently tap the end of the adaptor plate to release it from the gearbox (photo). 22. Undo the large Phillips head screw which holds the keeper plate in position. The keeper plate locks the layshaft spindle and reverse pinion shaft to the gearbox. Lift away the Phillips screw and slide out the keeper plate (photo). 23. Obtain a piece of metal rod of approximately the same diameter as the layshaft but longer, insert the rod in the layshaft hole in the bell housing and push out the layshaft so it emerges from the rear of gearbox (photo). 24. Note that there is a milled slot in the layshaft spin¬ dle which must be to the rear so that the keeper plate, which was previously removed, may engage in the slot (photo). 25. Withdraw the metal rod that was used to remove the layshaft spindle and allow the layshaft assembly to drop to the bottom of the gearbox. 26.

The first motion shaft should next be removed. Us¬ ing a metal drift gently tap the first motion shaft bear¬ ing outwards, through the front of the gearbox casing (photo). 27. Lift the first motion shaft complete with bearing from the front of the gearbox (photo). 28. Turning to the rear of the gearbox slide off the cam that drives the pump in the overdrive unit (if fitted) (photo;. 29. Using a pair of circlip pliers extract the circlip from its groove in the mainshaft (photo). 30. With a screwdriver ease the circlip over the mainshaft splines (photo). 31. Slide the distance washer from the face of the bear¬ ing inner track and remove from the mainshaft (photo). 32. To remove the rear mainshaft bearing use a soft faced hammer and drive the mainshaft into the gearbox as shown in the photo, until the bearing is at the rear of the mainshaft splines. Note the bearing circlip on the outer race periphery is still in position. 33.

Carefully ease the bearing rearwards using two

open ended spanners and tapping the mainshaft into the gearbox. Continue this operation until the bearing is completely free of the splines and lift away the bearing (photo). 34. If difficulty is experienced in levering the bearing along the mainshaft place the gearbox on its end with the mainshaft vertical (photo). 35. The mainshaft assembly may now be lifted through the gearbox as shown in the photo. 36.

Withdraw the reverse idler shaft from the rear of

the gearbox. Note the slot in the rear of the shaft into which engages the keeper plate (photo). 37. Lift away the reverse idler gear having made a note of which way round it fits. 38.

Lift out the laygear rear thrust washer (photo).

39. Lift out the laygear front thrust washer (photo) and finally remove the complete laygear assembly.

118

1.

Carefully clean and then examine all the component

parts for general wear, distortion, slackness of fit, and damage to machined faces and threads. 2. Examine the gearwheels for excessive wear and chipping of the teeth. Renew them as necessary. If the laygear endfloat is above the permitted tolerance of 0. 012 incL the thrust washers must be renewed. New thrust washers will almost certainly be required on any car that has completed more than 50, 000 miles.' 3. Examine the layshaft for signs of wear, where the laygear needle roller bearing bears, and check the laygear on a new shaft for worn bearings. These are sim¬ ply drifted out if new ones are to be fitted. 4. Thefour synchroniser rings (5,10,18,23) (Fig. 6.1) are bound to be badly worn and it is false economy not to renew them. New rings will improve the smoothness and speed of the gearchange considerably. 5. The needle roller bearing and cage (30) located be¬ tween the nose of the mainshaft and the annulus in the rear of the shaft is also liable to wear, and should be renewed as a matter of course. 6. Examine the condition of the three ball bearing as¬ semblies, one on the first motion shaft (27), one on the mainshaft (33) and the other in the tail of the gearbox extension (38). Check them for noisy operation, loose¬ ness between the inner and outer races, and for general wear. Normally they should be renewed on a gearbox that is being rebuilt. 7. Examine the mainshaft bushes and fit them on the mainshaft to check for overall endfloat. 8. Fit the inner thrust washer (11), bush (13), bush (14), thrust washer (16) and finally the circlip. With a feeler gauge measure the endfloat between the inner thrust washer and the adjacent bush. This should be between 0. 003 and 0. 009 inch. If outside these figures experiment with alternative thrust washers until the endfloat is correct. 9. To dismantle the synchromesh units, first wrap a length of clean rag completely round a unit and then pull off the outer synchro sleeve. The cloth will catch the spring loaded balls and springs which are bound to fly out.

Compare the length of the old springs with new and

replace any that are worn.

Note that an interlock plun¬

ger and ball is fitted to the second speed synchromesh hub. 10. Parts of the remote control gearchange are bound to be worn on any high mileage model and this is dealt with in Section 9. 11. NOTE: Later type gearboxes have a laygear with roller bearings in each end which are retained by cir¬ clips. On early models the roller bearings are a press fit and are positioned with a special tool. If you have to get an exchange laygear ensure that it is of the second type and that you not only get the roller bearings to fit it, but also the circlips. 12.

If the gearbox is to be left for any time it is a good

idea to wire the respective components of the laygear together, in their respective order so as to avoid con¬ fusion later on.

119

Chapter 6/Gearbox

6. First motion shaft - dismantling and reassembly 1.

12. Before reassembling the components to the mainshaft it will be necessary to determine the overall end float

The first motion shaft may be dismantled by first

of the bushes.

removing the circlipfrom its groove in the shaft (photo). 2. Slide off the spacer washer from the face of the

thrustwasher (16) onto the mainshaft and hold the com¬ ponents in place with an old circlip (17). Using feeler

race inner track and place the first motion shaft on the top of the vice with the outer track of the race resting on soft faces (photo).

gauges determine the total endfloat of both bushes. It should be between 0. 003-0. 009 inch. If necessary ad¬ just the endfloat by selecting thrust washers (16,11) of various thicknesses.

3. Using a soft faced hammer drift the first motion shaft through the race inner track (photo). The strain placed on the bearing does not matter, as the bearing would not be removed unless it was being renewed.

13. Assemble to the longer end of the mainshaft the thrustwasher, followed by the first gear bush, the first

4. Lift away the race from the first motion shaft fol¬ lowed by the oil deflector plate.

gear with the conical end towards the first thrust washer and then the second thrust washer (photo).

5. The component parts of the first motion shaft are shown in the photo.

14. Next mount the longer end (tail end) of the mainshaft between soft jaws of a vice and fit from the shorter end

6. To assemble the first motion shaft first fit the cir¬ clip to the bearing race outer track (photo).

the synchromesh ring followed by the first and second gear selector hub which incorporates on its forward

7. Slide the oil deflector plate onto the first motion shaft and then the ball race with the circlip away from the constant mesh gears.

periphery (part nearest the first gear) the reverse gear teeth (photo). 15. Continue building the front end of the mainshaft by fitting the synchromesh cone followed by a spacer, then second gear followed by the second gear bush which should be positioned with the raised lip on the end near¬ est to the front of the shaft (photo).

8. Place the race against soft metal on the top of the jaws of a vice and using a drift located in the spigot bearing hole, drive the shaft into the bearing (photo). 9. Replace the spacer washer and finally the circlip. Ensure that the circlip seats correctly in its groove.

16. Ensure that when refitting the synchromesh rings the tongue on the ring mates with the recess in the syn¬ chromesh hub as shown in the photo.

7. Mainshaft - dismantling and reassembly

17.

18. Fit the spring circlip into position on the front of the mainshaft.

Place the end of the mainshaft between the soft

faces of the vice so that it is parallel with the bench top. 3. Commence dismantling the mainshaft by sliding off the third and fourth gear synchromesh hub and the con¬ ical synchromesh ring (photo). Note which way round it fits on the mainshaft. 4. Using a pair of circlip pliers remove the circlip that holds the third gear in position (photo). 5. This can be a little difficult to remove so an assis¬ tant working with two screwdrivers will propably make this operation easier. With one end of the circlip re¬ leased from the groove gradually work the way round until it is free of the groove and then ease it along the splines of the mainshaft (photo). 6. Remove the third gear thrust washer from the mainshaft. Note which way round it fits as there is a flange on the inside (photo). 7. Slide the third speed gear and bush from the mainshaft (photo). Note that in the recess of the third gear is a spline. 8. Remove the second speed gear and second speed bush (photo). Note that there is a thrust washer inside the cone portion of the second speed gear.

Refit the third gear, the third gear bush and the

thrust washer so that the end of the spacer abuts inside the recess in the forward end of the gear (photo).

1. Place two pieces of soft metal in the jaws of a firm bench vice ready for holding the mainshaft (photo). 2.

To do this refer to Fig. 6. 7 and assem¬

ble the thrust washer (11), bush (13), bush (14) and

Difficulty may be experienced in seating the circlip into its groove in the mainshaft but with care it can be done (photo). 19. This photo shows how the mainshaft looks when the front end is fully assembled with the two remaining syn¬ chromesh rings and the third and fourth gear synchro¬ mesh hub being placed in position. The protruding end of the hub must face the front of the mainshaft. Do not fit these last parts yet but leave until the mainshaft has been inserted into the gearbox casing.

8. Gearbox - reassembly 1.

To reassemble the layshaft gear first grease the

two needle roller bearings (44), (Fig. 6.1), and insert them into the ends of the hub (45) (photo). 2. Lubricate the hub splines and slide the second gear (46), third (47), distance tube (48) and countershaft gear (49) onto the splines. The photo shows the gears posi¬ tioned the correct way roundfor refitting. They have been

9. Remove the first and second gear synchroniser hub which also incorporates the reverse gear machined on

previously wired together to ensure they are not separated.

its periphery. Also remove the two grooved synchro¬ mesh rings (photo).

3. Fit the front thrust washer for the countershaft gear in place in the gearbox casing having first coated the

10.

gearbox casing with grease to retain the thrust washer

Remove the mainshaft from the vice and slide off

the first gear and bush from the longer end of the mainshaft.

Note that there is a thrust washer between the

mainshaft larger diameter splines and the first gear bush (photo). 11.

120

Dismantling the mainshaft is now complete

(Photo). -

Do not fit the rear thrust washer at this stage.

Carefully insert the layshaft into the bottom of the

oSrT0hXelanSUr? that ^ thrUSt WaShGr d06S not Blip the t gG g6arWheel0n the layshaft S°es Awards the bell housing end of the gearbox casing (photo). •

Grease the smaller thrust washer to the end of the

4.3h

K 4.38

4.39

121

Fig. 6. 6. Measurement of gear end float.

No. Description 11 Thrust washer 13 Bush

122

Fig. 6. 8. Cross section through mainshaft assembly showing end float of mainshaft bushes.

Fig. 6. 7. DETERMINATION OF BUSH AND THRUST WASHER END FLOAT UBushDe8CrlPti°n ® h 16 Thrust washer

N°De8CripUon 17 Circlip

No. Descripth 32 Mainshaft Mainshaft

123

Chapter 6/Gearbox gearbox casing ensuring that the tongue in the washer seats in the groove, at the same time it will be neces¬ sary to lift the counter shaft up slightly (photo). 6. Temporarily fit the layshaft and using feeler gauges check the endfloat of the countershaft which should be 0.007-0.012 inch measured between the rear thrust washer (43) and the gear. Any excessive endfloat may be reduced by selective assembly of thrust washers. Remove the layshaft spindle again. 7. Insert the reverse idler gear into the casing locat¬ ing the end of the actuating lever into its location groove on the rear of the gear. Slide the reverse gear shaft into position so that the milled notch is at the rear of the gearbox (photo). 8. Insert the tail end of the mainshaft through the large cut-out for the bearing in the rear of the gearbox cas¬ ing (photo). 9. Position the third and top synchromesh unit onto the front end of the mainshaft before the front end finally passes into the gearbox (photo). Do not forget the syn¬ chro ring. 10. Push the rear bearing onto the mainshaft as far as it will go. The circlip should be towards the rear of the bearing as shown in the photo. 11. It is not possible to tap home the rear bearing of the tail end of the mainshaft without a support on the front end of the mainshaft, because otherwise this gearwheel hits the third gear on the countershaft which could mean chipped gear teeth. Invert the gearbox so that the flange of the clutch bell housing is on the bench and position wood blocks under the end of the mainshaft so that it is well supported. 12. Using a soft metal drift tap the rear main bearing downon the mainshaft by alternative^ tapping the inner and outer tracks (photo). 13. Continue tapping the bearing tracks until the bear¬ ing is fully positioned onto the mainshaft so that there is approximately 3/16 inch between the inner race of the bearing on the tail end of the mainshaft and the groove which holds the circlip (photo). 14. Once the bearing is fully on in this position, the supports inside the bell housing which are supporting the front or the nose of the mainshaft can be removed, and the bell housing allowed to rest flange downwards on the bench. It is now necessary to drive the outer race of the bearing fully into the rear of the gearbox casing until the circlip on the outer race track is ad¬ jacent to the face of the casing (photo). 15. With the gearbox still in the inverted position fit the spacer and lock in position with the circlip (photo). 16. Well lubricate the needle roller bearings in the annulus of the first motion shaft. Fit the top gear baulk ring onto the end of the first motion shaft and insert it into the casing (photo). 17. Usinga soft faced hammer carefully drive the first motion shaft into position with the circlip hard up again¬ st the gearbox face (photo). 18. Position the gearbox casing on the bench as shown in the photo with a wood block under the rear end of the gear casing. The countershaft gears should now drop into mesh with mainshaft end first motion shaft gears. Insert the layshaft (photo) until the milled slot is flush with the machined face at the rear of the casing. Turn it until the slot faces the slot in the reverse idler shaft. 19. Locate the keeper plate in the milled slots of the layshaft and reverse idler spindle (photo) and refit the

124

Phillip head screw. This should be done up as tightly as possible. 20. Fit the countershaft plate and new gasket to the front of the gearbox and secure with the two bolts and copper washers (photo). To assist the gasket to seal coat with hermetite and also apply a little to the bolt threads. 21. The front cover should be fitted next. Refer to the photo and note that there is a cut out which should be positioned to the left when looking at the first motion shaft (see also Fig. 6.2). Fit a new gasket to the end cover. 22. Tightenthe end cover bolts fitted with spring wash¬ ers (photo). 23. Now fit the gasket to the rear end of the gearbox using hermatite to ensure an oil tight joint. On over¬ drive models fit the overdrive adaptor plate, (photo) whilst on ordinary models fit the gearbox extension. 24. Fit the six § inch A, F. bolts and flat washers and tighten securely. (The information in this paragraph down to and in¬ cluding paragraph 30 applies to overdrive models only). 25. Fit a new gasket to the rear end of the gearbox cas¬ ing adaptor plate suitably coated with hermatite. 26. Splines on the mainshaft have to go through sets of splines inside the overdrive. It is therefore essential to line up these splines in relation to one another. A torch will assist here. 27. Secure the overdrive unit in the vertical position and insert the eight springs. It is important that these are correctly positioned whereby the four inner springs although they are higher than the outer springs are in fact shorter. The photo shows a finger pointing to one of the shorter springs. 28. Now slide the cam, which operates the hydraulic pump in the overdrive unit, into place on the tail end of the mainshaft. The lowest part of the cam (pointed at inphoto ’A') must abut the spring loaded plunger (point¬ ed at inphoto 'B'). In this latter photo the cam has been removedfrom the mainshaft and placed against the plun¬ ger to show how they fit together. Place a piece of wire around the head of the plunger rod so that the spring can be compressed whilst the two units are being assembled. The reason for this is that the plunger rod for the hy¬ draulic pump is spring loaded and may cause the over¬ drive unit and gearbox to join when being fitted together. 29. With an assistant to help gradually lower the gear¬ box to the overdrive unit. Pull on the wire so as to compress the spring and when the gearbox adaptor plate is nearly in position withdraw the wire. 30. Refit the \ inch A. F. nuts and spring washers to the o ^erdrive to adaptor plate studs and tighten in a diagonal manner so as to compress the eight springs. 31. For a conventional gearbox refit the circlip (39), (Fig. 6.1), to the end of the mainshaft. 32. Carefully tap the flange (40) using a soft faced ham¬

mer until it is in position on the mainshaft. 33. Replace the plain washer (41) and the castellated nut (42) and tighten the nut securely. Lock the nut with a new split pin. 34. Replace the speedometer drive, items (95,96,97) (Fig. 6. 2) on the side of the gearbox extension housing. ’ 35 Ensure that all gears are in their neutral position and using an oil can well lubricate all moving parts of the selector mechanism and synchromesh units (photo). 36. Carefully lower the remote control and top cover

125

Chapter 6/Gearbox with a new gasket fitted onto the top of the gearbox hous¬

cover, passingthe shaft through the first/second selec¬

ing.

tor fork (105) and distance tube (77).

Take care that all the selector forks are locating

correctly in their grooves especially the reverse selec¬ tor fork (photo). 37.

Refit the eight

\

20. Lubricate all moving parts and refit to the top of the gearbox, preferably using a new gasket.

inch A. F. bolts with spring wash¬

ers noting that the four longer bolts fit the front and rear of the top cover only. Tighten securely in a diagonal manner (photo).

10. Overdrive - general description The overdrive unit is attached to the extension on the rear of the gearbox by eight studs and nuts, and

9. Top cover and remote control assembly - overhaul

takes the form of an hydraulically operated epicyclic gear. Overdrive operates on third and fourth speeds

1. The components of the top cover and remote con¬ trol assembly are shown in Fig. 6. 2.

to provide fast cruising at lower engine revolutions.

2. To remove the assembly undo the eight | inch A. F. bolts that hold the remote control and top cover onto the top of the gearbox. Lift away the bolts and spring wa¬ shers noting that the four longer bolts are to the front and rear of the top cover. 3. Lift away the remote control and top cover from the top of the gearbox noting the gasket placed between the two parts. 4. Turn the cover over and unscrew the plugs (100,113) and lift away the distance piece (117), springs (114,112, 101), plungers (110,111) and ball bearing (102). 5. Undo the peg bolts holding the selector forks to the selector rods. 6.

Check that the selectors are in the neutral position

and withdraw the third/top gear selector shaft (108). As the shaft is being removed collect the interlock plunger (115) and ballbearings(H6,120) as they are released. 7. Lift away the third/top selector fork and distance tube (106) from the top cover. 8. Repeat operations in paragraphs 6 and 7 for the first/second and also reverse gear selector shafts (103, 66). 9. Undo the two setscrews (64) and remove together with spring washers and lift away the retaining plate (65). 10. Lift away the three sealing rings from their recess in the casing. 11. Theselectors (118,125) maybe removed from their respective shafts by undoing the peg bolts (119). 12. Inspect all parts for signs of wear and, if evident, new parts should be fitted. The seals (67) should be renewed every time the assembly is dismantled. 13. To reassemble first fit the selectors (118,125) to their respective shafts secure with peg bolts (119). 14. Replace new 'O' ring seals into their recesses in the rear cover and fit the retaining plate (65). Replace the two bolts (64) and spring washers. 15. Place the interlock plunger (115) in the third/top selector shaft and insert the shaft into the top cover. Engage the selector fork (78), distance tube (106) and secure the fork with a peg bolt. 16.

Replace the interlock ball bearing (120) between

the reverse and third/top selector shaft bores retaining the ball with grease. 17.

Insert the reverse selector shaft (66) into the top

cover, engaging it with the reverse actuator (69) and distance tube (109). fork.

Fit the peg bolt to the selector

18. Checkthat the reverse and third/top selector shafts are in neutral and fit the second interlock ball (116) re¬ taining the ball with grease. 19.

126

Insert the first/second selector shaft into the top

The overdrive 'in-out' switch on the right hand of the steering wheel actuates a solenoid attached to the side of the overdrive unit. In turn the solenoid operates a valve which opens the hydraulic circuit which pushes the cone clutch into contact with the annulus when over¬ drive is engaged. During high speed motoring, the engine speed is decreased with the engagement of overdrive so that with continual use of the unit there will be a consider¬ able increase in engine life with a corresponding de¬ crease in engine wear. A special switch called an inhibitor switch is incor¬ porated in the electrical circuit and prevents the engage¬ ment of overdrive in reverse, first or second gears. The switch is located on the top of the gearbox top co¬ ver. The normal minimum engagement speeds are top gear 40 mph and third gear 30 mph, whilst the minimum disengagement speed in top is under the control of the driver who must take care not to over rev the engine at high speeds. For third speed the disengagement should occur at a maximum of 70 mph. The overdrive unit operates in the following manner: (numbers in brackets refer to Fig. 6. 9). The oper¬ ating gears in the overdrive are of epicyclic design and comprise a sunwheel (52) which meshes with three plan¬ et gears carried in a circular metal carrier (54). These planet gears mesh with an annulus (60) which has inter¬ nal teeth. The planet carrier (54) is attached to the in¬ put shaft which is the output shaft of the gearbox. The annulus (60) is an integral part of the output shaft. Whenthedriver selects overdrive, hydraulic pres¬ sure is built up by a plunger type pump (19, 20, 21) which operatesfroma cam (18) splined to the input shaft, i. e. the output shaft from the gearbox. The hydraulic pres¬ sure built up by the pump forces the two pistons (34) against bridge pieces (38) which are themselves attached to the thrust ring (36). The thrust ring is pushed for¬ wards by the pistons (34) so engaging the clutch (51) with the brake ring (45), with sufficient force to hold the sunwheel (52) firmly at rest. The planet carrier (54) is now able to rotate with the input shaft allowing the planet wheels in the planet carrier assembly (54) to rotate about their own axes so driving the annulus (60) at a faster speed than the input shaft is rotating. Oil is drawn by the pump through a wire mesh fil¬ ter (25) and delivers it to the operating valve (12-18) through an hydraulic accumulator (74-78), the amount of pressure being controlled by a pressure relief valve built into the accumulator. The oil is free to pass be¬ tween the gearbox and overdrive unit and there is one common level for both units.

The oil level is indicated

f—-® 102]

Fig. 6. 9. OVERDRIVE UNIT COMPONENT PARTS

1 Main casing

27 Drain plug

50 Rear bearing location cir¬

No. Description 70 Flange to annulus attach¬

2 Stud (5/g inch) adaptor

28 Drain plug washer

clip 51 Clutch sliding member as¬

71 Flange to annulus attach¬

No.

Description

No.

plate attachment

Description

29 Oil pump valve steel ball

4 Stud (1/4 inch) adaptor plate attachment

30 Oil pump valve plunger 31 Oil pump valve spring

5 Stud - rear casing at¬ tachment

32 Oil pump valve washer 33 Oil pump valve plug

6 Stud - solenoid bracket attachment 7 Taper plug (2000 mod¬ els only peg 9 Valve operating shaft 11 Welch plug

55 Uni-directional cage 56 Roller set 57Uni-directional inner mem¬

38 Bridge piece 39 Tab washer securing bri¬ dge pieces to clutch thrust

41 Adaptor plate

ball 14 Operating valve plunger

42 Adaptor plate to overdrive

15 Operating valve spring

43 Adaptor plate to overdrive

unit joint washer unit nut 44 Adaptor plate to overdrive

18 Oil pump operating cam

unit lock washer

59 Thrust washer at rear of free wheel 60 Annulus assembly 61 Front ball bearing annu¬ 62 Annulus end float adjust¬ ment washer (various si¬

21 Oil pump body

47 Thrust washer at front of

, 24 Pump to casing lockwasher j 25 Oil filter i 26 Magnet

sunwheel (selected size) bearing 49 Front bearing location cir¬ clip

73 Accumulator housing as¬ sembly 74 Accumulator housing 'O' ring 75 Spacer tube assembly

sembly 78 Accumulator spring

casing attachment

stud 66 Rear casing tomaincasing nut 67 Rear casing to main cas¬ ing lockwasher 68 Rear casing oil seal 69 Coupling flange

No.

Description to shaft plain washer

90 Solenoid operating lever to shaft nut 91 Operating lever stop ad¬ justment screw 92 Operating lever stop ad¬ justment screw locknut 93 Solenoid bracket cover plate 94 Cover plate to bracke joint washer 95 Cover plate to bracket screw 96 Cover plate to bracket screw lockwasher

79 Solenoid bracket assem¬

97 Solenoid

bly 80 Solenoid bracket to main

99 Solenoid to solenoid brac¬

casing joint washer casing setscrew 82 Solenoid bracket to main 83 Solenoid bracket to main casing lockwasher

lus 65 Rear

48 Clutch thrust ring ball

nut split pin

casing plain washer

63 Rear ball bearing annu¬

46 Thrust washer at front of

23 Pump to casing setscrew

72 Flange to annulus slotted

81 Solenoid bracket to main

lus

sembly 20 Oil pump plunger spring

sunwheel (standard)

ment slotted nut

77 Piston ring

ring

64 Rear casing assembly

as¬

22 Pump body plug

j

58 Uni-directional cage sp¬

45 Brake clutch ring

19 Oil pump plunger

ment washer

76 Accumulator piston as¬

ber

zes)

17 Operating valve plug copper washer

sunwheel

36 Clutch thrust ring

13 Operating valve steel

16 Operating valve plug

53 Thrust washer at rear of

35 Operating piston 'O' ring

to clutch thrust wing

12 Operating valve

sembly 52 Sunwheel assembly

34 Operating piston

ring 40 Nut securing bridge pieces

10 Cam lever

Description

54 Planet carrier assembly

37 Clutch spring

8 Oil pump plunger guide

No.

84 Solenoid bracket to main casing nut 85 Solenoid bracket to main casing dowel

98 Solenoid rubber cover ket joint washer 100 Solenoid to solenoid brac¬ ket setscrew 101 Solenoid to solenoid brac¬ ket lockwasher 102 Speedometer driven gear 103 Bearing assembly 104 Bearing 'O' ring 105 Speedometer driven gear to casing retaining screw 106 Speedometer drivengear

86 Distance collar

to casing retaining screw

87 Solenoid .operating lever

copper washer

88 Solenoid operating lever to shaft retaining bolt 89 Solenoid operating lever

Chapter 6/Gearbox by a 'level' plug on the side of the gearbox.

needed,

Whenever the oil is drained the two drain plugs, one on the underside of the gearbox and the other on the

to Fig.

mences.

and they should be obtained before work com¬ (All numbers in brackets in this section refer 6. 9 but for clarity there are several additional

underside of the overdrive unit, must be removed but it

illustrations where a different number code is used.

is usual practice not to change the oil during normal

Where this is the case the number in brackets at the end of each caption item denotes its equivalent number in Fig. 6. 9).

servicing but to top up. Only recommended grades of oil must be used and it is important that under no cir¬ cumstances must oil anti-friction additives be used otherwise the overdrive unit will not operate correctly. Cleanliness is very important so do not remove the drain plug without first wiping the surrounding area. Whenever the oil is drained for service/repair work on

2.

It is recommended that, before the unit is dismant¬

led, the exterior is thoroughly cleaned and dried as it is important that no dirt gets into any of the internal parts of the unit. 3.

Place the unit on a clean bench and lift away the

either the gearbox or the overdrive always clean the mesh filter (25).

clutch return springs and place in a clean jam jar for safe keeping.

The overdrive is normally a very reliable unit and trouble is usually due to either the solenoid sticking; a fault in the hydraulic system due to dirt ingress; in¬ sufficient oil; or incorrect solenoid operating lever ad¬ justment.

4. Bend back the tab washers (39) and unscrew the four nuts (40). Lift away the nuts, tab washers and bridge pieces (38). 5. Undo the six nuts (43) and lift away the nuts and spring washers (44) from the studs (2,3,4). 6. The two casings may now be separated. the brake ring (45).

11. Overdrive - removal and replacement 1. It is unnecessary to remove the overdrive from the car in order to attend to the following: The hydraulic lever setting; the relief valve; the non-return valve; the solenoid; and the operating valve. 2.

If the unit as a whole requires overhaul it must be

removed from the car together with the gearbox as des¬ cribed in Chapter 6, Section 3. 3. To separate the overdrive from the gearbox undo the eight nuts from the 5 inch (6.35 mm) diameter studs (noting the extra length of two of the studs) to separate the main overdrive casing from the gearbox rear exten¬ sion. Carefully pull the overdrive off the end of the mainshaft. 4. To mate the overdrive and gearbox, start by placing the overdrive in an upright position and then line up the splines of the clutch and planet carrier by eye, turning them anti-clockwise only, with the aid of a long thick screwdriver. Make certain that the spring clip is cor¬ rectly positioned in the groove in the main shaft and that it does not protrude above the mainshaft splines. 5. Under normal circumstances if everything is in line the gearbox mainshaft should enter the overdrive easily. If trouble is experienced do not try and force the com¬ ponents together but separate them and re-align the components. Place the gearbox in top gear while re¬ fitting. 6. As the mainshaft is fed into the overdrive, gently rotate the input shaft to and fro to help in mating the mainshaft into the splines. At the same time make cer¬ tain that the lowest portion of the cam on the mainshaft will rest against the pump and that as the gearbox ex¬ tension and overdrive come together, the end of the mainshaft enters into the needle roller bearing in the tailshaft. 7. The remainder of the replacement procedure is a straightforward reversal of the removal sequence.

7. Workingfrom the forward end of the sunwheel (52), first remove the steel thrust washer (46) followed by the phosphor bronze thrust washer (47). Lift out the clutch sliding member (51) complete with the thrust ring (36) and bearing (48). 8. Withdraw the sunwheel (52) and the planet carrier assembly (54). 9. Unscrew and remove the operating valve plug (16) and copper washer (17). Lift out the spring (15), plun¬ ger (14) and ball bearing (13) followed by the valve (12). 10.

Using a pair of pliers carefully grip the operating

pistons (34) on the centre bosses and rotate whilst pul¬ ling the pistons out of the front casing (1). 11. Undo the three cover plate (93) retaining screws (95) and lift away the screw spring washers (96), cover plate (93) and its joint washer (94). 12. Remove the two screws (100) and spring washers (101) that secure the solenoid (97) to the solenoid brac¬ ket assembly (79). Lift away the solenoid, carefully easing the plunger from the yoke of the valve operating lever (87). 13.

Slacken the clamp bolt (88) and retaining nut (90) on

the valve operating lever (87) and withdraw the lever (87) and distance collar (86) from the shaft (9). 14.

Remove the nuts (84) and spring washers (83) from

the two short studs that secure the solenoid bracket as¬ sembly (79) to the main casing (l). Also undo the two setscrews (painted red) (81), so as to release the ac¬ cumulator spring (78) tension. Do not remove the two setscrews first.

1. To enable a satisfactory overhaul to be completed there are several special tools that will be required. Full details of these are given as and where they are

128

Lift away the solenoid bracket (79)

followed by the spring (78) and the spacer tube assembly (75).

y

15.

If it is necessary to remove the accumulator sleeve

(73) and piston assembly (76) a special tool is required. Refer to Fig. 6. 11 and insert tool number L 182 into the accumulator sleeve (73) and tighten the lower wing nut Withdraw the accumulator sleeve and piston assembly by applying a rotary pull to the upper wing bolt of the tool.

12. Overdrive - dismantling, overhaul and reassembly

Lift away

There is no other way of removing- these parts

without causing damage to their very fine surface finish. 16 The next part to be removed is the pump return valve which is positioned in the cavity of the main body casing once the solenoid bracket assembly (79) is re¬ moved.

Undo and lift out the hexagonal plug (33) and

washer (32), followed by the spring (31), plunger (30)

Fig. 6.10. ACCUMULATOR SPRING AND NON-RETURN VALVE No. Description No. Description 61 Solenoid bracket assembly (79) 64 Accumulator spring (78) 72 Oil pump valve plug (33) 62 Gasket (94) 65 Spacer tube assembly (75) 73 Washer (32) 63 'O' ring 66 Shims 74 Spring (31) No.

Description

No.

Description

75 Plunger (30) 76 Ball bearing

Fig. 6. 11. Removal of accumulator piston and sleeve using special tool L182.

129

Chapter 6/Gearbox and ball bearing (29). It is important that these parts are re moved before the pump is removed from the main casing.

ting pistons and renew them if worn or if they are be¬

17.

from score marks and wear.

Undo and remove the drain plug (27).

filter (25).

Lift away the

Itwill be seen that there are three magnetic

2 inches).

Examine the 'O' rings (35) from the opera¬

coming hard, and check that the cylinder bores are free Check all the ball bear¬

ings for roughness when turned and for looseness be¬

rings (26) positioned in the recess of the drain plug (27).

tween the inner and outer races.

18. To remove the pump another special tool is required having a part number L 183A/1. Undo and remove the

for burrs and wear, and the rollers of the uni-directional clutch for chips and flat spots. 30. Renew the clutch linings if they are burnt or worn

two retaining screws (23) and the base plug (22). Screw the short threaded portion of the spindle of the special tool into the pump body. Locate the adaptor in position against the casing and tighten the wing nut which will cause the body (21) to be withdrawn from the main cas¬ ing (1) (Fig. 6. 12). Lift out the plunger (19) and spring

(20). 19. Using a pair of circlip pliers remove the circlip (49) from its groove in the forward end of the clutch hub (51) and taking great care not to damage the clutch member or friction lining, drive the clutch member from the thrust ring (36) and bearing (48) using a soft metal drift and hammer. 20. With a pair of circlip pliers remove the large dia¬ meter circlip (50) and using a vice and piece of suitable diameter tube, press the bearing (48) from the thrust ring (36). 21. Should it be necessary to remove the uni-directional clutch, special assembly ring tool number L 178 is ne¬ cessary. Position the assembly ring over the front face of the annulus (60) and lift the inner member of the uni¬ directional clutch (57) up into it (Fig. 6.12). 22. Then remove the assembly ring and allow the rollers to come out followed by the hub so exposing the spring (58). 23. Lift away the phosphor bronze thrust washer (59) that is fitted between the uni-directional clutch (55,56,57) and the annulus (60). 24. Undo and remove the speedometer dowel screw (105) and spring washer (106). Using special tool L 214 so as to prevent damage to the thread of the bearing as¬ sembly (103) withdraw the speedometer drive bearing and pinion (102). Note the 'O' ring (104) on the bearing centre outer circumference. 25.

Extract the split pin (72) securing the castellated

nut (71) to the annulus (60).

Undo the castellated nut and

remove followed by the thick plain washer (70).

Slide

the coupling flange (69) from the splines on the annulus (60).

Examine the splines

and carefully examine the main (1) and rear (64) casings for cracks or other damage. Renew the steady bush if it is worn and examine the gear teeth for cracks, chips, and general wear. Examine the sealing balls for ridges which will prevent them seating properly and check the free length of the springs, the measurements being given in the specifications. « 31. Assembly of the unit can commence after any dam¬ aged or worn parts have been exchanged and new gas¬ kets and seals obtained. 32.

The first part to be refitted is the pump assembly

for which tool number L 184 is required to ensure ac¬ curate refitting. This is shown in Fig. 6.15. Screw the two guide pegs of the tool into the two holes in the bottom pump face. 33. Refit the spring (20) to the pump plunger (19) and insert this into the pump body (21). Insert the pump as¬ sembly into the casing (1) positioning the flange of the body (21) over both guide pegs of the tool L 184, and locating the flat of the pump plunger against the guide peg in the front casing adjacent to the central guide bushes. 34. Drift the pump body home fully using the drift, this being part of tool L 184. Undo and remove the two guide pegs and fit the two retaining screws (23) and spring washers (24). 35. Refit the base plug (22). Reassemble the three magnetic rings (26) and fibre sealing washer (28> onto the drain plug (27). Locate the filter (25) onto the cen¬ tral boss of the drain plug (27) and screw into the body. Tighten fully to prevent subsequent oil leaks. 36. Insert the non return valve ball bearing (29) into its drilling. Note that this ball bearing has a diameter of I inch. Using a soft metal drift of diameter slightly less than 5 inch, tap the ball bearing lightly so as to seat it in its drilling.

Insert the plunger (30), spring (31)

and plug (33) with a new copper washer (32) fitted under

Using a press or a hammer and block of wood on

its head. Check that the copper washer seats on its lo¬ cation correctly to ensure no oil leaks.

the end of the annulus (60) with the castellated nut (71) replaced to protect the threads, remove the annulus from the rear casing (64).

37. Refit the piston (76) into the sleeve (73) taking care that the piston rings (77) are not damaged. With the

27. The front bearing should remain in position on the annulus (60) but if it must be removed a suitable two leg puller or a press should be used. Note the position of the spring washer (62) which should be located on a shoulder in front of the annulus splines.

press each ring whilst a second person pushes the pis¬ ton down.

26.

28.

If the oil seal (68) has shown signs of leaking or the

bearing (63) is to be renewed, prise the oil seal from

sleeve upright push the piston down until the rings are resting on the top of the bore. Using two thumbs com¬

38. Insert the accumulator spring (78) into the tube (75) and fit the accumulator tube (75) into the recess in the accumulator sleeve (73) and then carefully push into the casing, easing the sealing rings (74) into the bore.

the rear casing (64) making a note of which way round it

39.

fits. The bearing (63) maybe drifted from the rear cas¬ ing using a long soft metal drift.

was originally fitted and using a new joint washer (80) refit the solenoid bracket (79) ensuring that the accum¬

29.

ulator spring (78) locates over a dowel (85) in the brac¬ kets.

Thoroughly clean all the component parts and then

examine them carefully.

Check that the oil pump plun¬

ger (19) and body (21) are not worn and that the spring has not contracted (free length should not be less than

130

40.

Fit a new 'O' ring over the operating shaft (9) if one

Tighten the two screws (81) with spring washers

(82) evenly and then the nuts (84) with spring washers onto the two short studs (6).

Fig. 6. 12. TOOL L183A/1 PREPARED READY FOR REMOVAL OF

Fig. 6.14. Removal of uni-directional clutch using tool L178.

PUMP BODY No.

Description

81 Setscrew (23)

No.

Description

82 Base plug (22)

Fig. 6. 13. Removal of pump body. Fig. 6. 15. No.

Description

1 Guide pins

REFITTING PUMP ASSEMBLY No.

Description

2 Pump assembly

131

Chapter 6/Gearbox 41. Fit new 'O' rings (35) to the pistons (34) and lub¬ ricate with oil. Insert the pistons into their respective bores carefully easing the rubber 'O'rings into the bores in the casing. Note that the centre bosses of the pis¬ tons face outwards to the front of the casing. 42. Insert the operating valve (12) into its bore in the casing ensuring that it is the correct way up with the hemispherical end engaging on the flat of the small cam (10) on the operating shaft (9). 43.

Drop in the ball bearing (13) (5/16 inch diameter)

followed by the plunger, with the larger diameter inner¬ most, and the spring (15). Fit a new copper washer (17) onto the operating valve plug (16) and refit the plug. En¬ sure the copper washer is sealing correctly on its lo¬ cation on the plug and tighten securely. 44. If any new parts are to be refitted to the rear cas¬ ing or annulus a special tailshaft end float setting gauge will be necessary. This is numbered L 190A and will enable the thickness of the spacing washer (59) to be determined so that the bearings (61,63) will not have ex¬ cessive end float or pre-load. The gauge is shown in Fig. 6. 16 and comprises an inner member which rests against the end of the annulus output shaft (60). The outer part rests on the rear bearing abutment in the rear casing (64). 45. Using a drift of suitable diameter to locate on the outer track of the front bearing (61) insert the bearing into the rear casing until the outer track abuts against a shoulder in the casing. Next, using a press or a drift of suitable diameter insert the annulus (60) into the front bearing (61) which has been inserted into the casing 46. Referring to Fig. 6. 16 fit the gauge over the output shaft of the annulus until the outer member (1) contacts the rear bearing shoulder in the rear casing. Gently press downthe inner member (2) and using feeler gauges determine dimension 'A'. Select a spacing washer (62) of the same thickness as the measurement just made using the feeler gauges. A range of washers is avail¬ able in the following sizes . 146, .151, .156, .161, .166 inch. Remove the setting gauge. 47. Fit the previously selected washer (62) onto the an¬ nulus output shaft and using a drift of suitable diameter drive the rear bearing (63) into position in the rear cas¬ ing. Also use the drift to refit the oil seal (68) ensur¬ ing that the lip is facing inwards. Lubricate the oil seal inner face. 48.

Refit the rear coupling flange (69) into the splines

of the annulus output shaft followed by the plain washer (70) and castellated nut (71). Tighten the nut and secure with a new split pin (72). 49. Fit a new 'O' ring (104) to the bearing (103) and in¬ sert the speedometer pinion gear (102) into the bearing. Insert the bearing and gear assembly into the casing and to ensure correct meshing rotate the annulus. Align the holes in the casing and the bush and fit the dowel screw (105) with a new copper washer (106) under its head. Tighten the dowel screw securely. 50. Refit the spring (58) into the roller cage (55) of the uni-directional clutch. Insert the inner member (57) into the cage (55) and engage it into the other end of the spring (58).

Also engage the slots of the inner member

with the tongues on the roller cage ensuring that the spring is able to rotate the cage, so moving the rollers

the front. 51. Insert this assembly into the special assembly ring, tool number L 178, with its front end facing downwards and insert the rollers through the milled slot in the tool as shown in Fig. 6. 17.

It will be necessary to turn the

uni-directional clutch in a clockwise direction until all collets are in place. 52. Refit the uni-directional clutch assembly to the an¬ nulus (60) having first inserted the thrust washer (59). The assembly tool will allow the rollers to enter into the annulus without falling out or jamming. If the tool is not available a strong elastic band should be wrapped around the cage and then lifted to allow each roller to be inserted. 53. Before the planet carrier (54) is refitted the gears must be specially set. Turn each planet gaar in turn until a dot mark on one of the teeth of the large gear is positioned radially outwards as shown in Fig. 6.18. Lo¬ cate the phospher bronze washer (53) in its recess in the planet carrier (54) and insert the sunwheel (52). 54. Ensure that the sunwheel meshes correctly with the planet gears at the same time keeping the dot marks in their originally set position. 55. Insert the planet carrier and sunwheel assembly into the annulus (60). 56. Obtain a piece of metal bar the same diameter as the output shaft of the gearbox and insert it into the sun¬ wheel (52) until the rod engages the planet carrier and uni-directional clutch splines. 57.

The end float of the sunwheel must be checked to

ensure that it is within the limits of between 0. 008 and 0. 014 inch. To do this slide an additional thrust wash¬ er of known thickness over the previously inserted metal rod until it rests on the top of the sunwheel (52) followed by the original phospher bronze thrust washer (47) and the steel thrust washer (46). 58.

Fit the brake ring (45) into the front casing (1) and

using a soft faced hammer tap it firmly in position. Carefully slide the front casing (1) over the metal rod and position it up to the rear casing assembly (64). 59. As an additional thrust washer has been fitted a gap between the two casings should now be evident. Using feeler gauges measure this gap. The thickness of the extra thrust washer MINUS the end float of the sunwheel is the required dimension. 60.

If this indicated end float is outside the limit spec¬

ified in paragraph 57 it must be adjusted by replacing the STEEL thrust washer (46) at the front of the sun¬ wheel (52) with a new one of greater or less thickness. 61. Remove the front casing (1) and thrust washers pre¬ viously positioned as necessary. 62.

Using a vice press the thrust bearing (48) into the

thrust ring (36) and refit the large diameter circlip (50) into its groove in the thrust ring. 63.

Next press the thrust ring assembly into the hub of

the clutch sliding member (51) and lock in position using the smaller diameter circlip (49). 64.

Carefully fit the clutch sliding member over the

sunwheel splines (52) and engage the inner linings on the annulus assembly. Fit the phospher bronze washer (47) on the top of the sunwheel and the steel washer (46) of suitable thickness, as previously determined.

(56) when they are refitted up the inclined faces of the inner member (57).

The cage should be spring loaded

in an anti-clockwise direction when looking at it from

132

65^ LlShtly smear a little jointing compound onto both sides of the brake ring flange (45) and tap this home on the main casing (1).

Fig. 6. 16. DETERMINATION OF TAILS HAFT END FLOAT USING TOOL NUMBER L190A No. Description No. Description No. Description No. Description 1 Outer member - spacing 2 Inner member - spacing A Thickness of required spacing washer gauge washer gauge

Fig. 6. 17. USE OF TOOL L178 TO ASSEMBLE UNI-DIRECTIONAI CLUTCH No. Description No. Description 21 Roller (56) 32 Inner member (57) 30 Cage (55)

Fig. 6.18. Correct positioning of marks on the planet wheels when assembled to sun wheel

Chapter 6/Gearbox Fit the main casing and brake ring to the rear cas¬

10. Operate the switch several times checking with the

ing taking care that the thrust ring pins are positioned through the four corresponding holes in the main casing.

test rod to ensure that the adjustment remains correct.

66.

11. Measure the current consumed by the solenoid switch which, with the operating arm correctly set

Fit spring washers (67) into the six studs (65) followed by the retaining nuts (66) and tighten securely in a dia¬ gonal manner.

should be about 2 amps. If a reading of 15-20 amp is obtained it is an indication that the solenoid plunger is

67. Replace the two operating piston bridge pieces (38) and secure on the studs (2) using a new tab washer (39)

the operating coil.

and nuts (40). Bend over the locking tabs. 68. Slide the distance collar (86) onto the lever shaft (9).

not moving sufficiently to switch to the holding coil from If very fine adjustment will not re¬

medy this condition, fit a new solenoid and plunger. 12. Replace the solenoid housing cover and tighten the three retaining bolts.

69. Refit the operating lever (87) to the lever shaft (9) and lightly tighten the locknut (90). 70.

Fit a new joint washer (99) to the solenoid bracket

14. Overdrive - operating valve

(79) and insert the solenoid plunger into the yoke in the operating lever. Secure the solenoid (97) to the bracket with the two bolts (100) and spring washer (101). 71. It will now be necessary to set the solenoid operating lever and full details of this are given in Section 13 of this Chapter.

Should the overdrive unit not function correctly and the fault be diagnosed from the fault diagnosis chart as with the operating valve, it may be removed and checked as follows:1. It will be seen from referring to Fig. 6. 9, that the operating valve components (14-17) are located in the top of the main casing (1). To gain access to the valve

72. Fit a new cover plate gasket (94) and then the cover plate (93). Secure with three bolts (95) and spring wa¬ shers (96).

with the unit in the car the console tray must be removed

73. Reassembly is now complete. Do not forget to re¬ fill with oil the gearbox and overdrive unit once the unit has been refitted.

as detailed in Section 3, paragraphs 4-7 inclusive. 2. Switch on the ignition but do not start the engine. Activate the overdrive control switch several times so

13. Overdrive unit - operating lever adjustment

as to operate the solenoid (97) (Fig. 6. 9) thus releasing any residual oil pressure. Wipe the area around the valve plug free of dust.

1. If the overdrive does not engage, or will not re¬ lease when it is switched out, providing the solenoid is not at fault the trouble is likely to be that the operating lever is out of adjustment. Adjustment can be made without removing the overdrive.

3. Unscrew and remove the operating valve plug (16) and copper washer (17). Using a paper clip which has been straightened and the end bent to a small hook with¬ draw the spring (15). The plunger (14) may be removed using a small magnet or magnetised screwdriver. Also remove the ball bearing (13).

2. To one end of a shaft passing through the overdrive casing is attached a setting lever having a 3/16 inch hole in its outer end as shown in Fig. 6.19. The other end of the shaft is attached to a solenoid lever as shown in Fig. 6. 20.

4. Using the other end of the paper clip with a slight kink in it carefully insert it into the centre of the valve (12) and withdraw the valve. 5. Clean the removed parts in petrol and allow to dry. Locate the small drilling near to the base of the valve (12) and check that it is free of dirt.

3. Switch on the ignition and set the overdrive switch to energize the solenoid. The hole in the setting lever should align with a similar hole in the casing which will indicate that the operating valve is fully open. To check

6. Inspect the ball bearing (13) for signs of pitting which, if evident, indicate that a new ball bearing should be obtained. It has a diameter of 5/16 inch.

this try and insert a 3/16 inch diameter rod //A), Fig. 6. 197, through both holes. If it is not possible adjust¬ ment is necessary. Switch off the ignition.

7. If the ball bearing is satisfactory re-seat it by placing the ball bearing on a block of soft wood. Invert the valve and place on top of the ball bearing and lightly

4. Undo the three solenoid housing cover retaining bolts and lift away the cover.

tap the end. If it is tapped too hard the drilling in the side of the valve or in the end may be closed.

5. Slacken the clamp bolt (58) (Fig. 6. 20) on the op¬ erating lever (57) and rotate the shaft until the 3/16 inch diameter rod is able to pass into the hole in the casing.

8. Reassembling the valve is the reverse sequence to removal.

6. Approximately 0. 008 inch end float should be allowed for on the shaft. Push the solenoid plunger fully home at the same time holding the fork of the lever against the collar in the plunger. 7. Tighten the clamp bolt so securing the lever to the shaft. 8.

Still continuing to push the plunger hard home in the

solenoid set the adjustable stop (51), Fig. 6.20 until there is a gap of 0.150 to 0.155 inch between the end of the plunger and the stop. 9. Remove the 3/16 inch diameter rod and energize the solenoid. Check the alignment of the two setting holes with feeler gauges to the value of 0.150 to 0.155 inch between the stop and the plunger.

134

15. Non-return valve - removal and replacement 1. Access to the relief and non-return valve located in the bottom of the overdrive is simply gained. First drain the oil from the gearbox and overdrive. 2.

Cut through the locking wire, unscrew the plugs

and remove and clean the components. Note that the valve cap and non-return valve body are unscrewed from the pump, andthatthe relief valve body is removed with circlip pliers. 3. Examine the seatings for pits or chips, and the ball for wear, and ridges. The steel ball in the non-return valve is very hard and if the ball is undamaged and the

Fig. 6. 19. SETTING LEVER PINNED TO THE CASING A

3/l6 inch diameter rod

B Setting lever

Fig. 6. 20. SETTING OF OPERATING LEVER No.

Description

49 Plunger

No.

Description

51 Adjustment stop locknut (91)

No.

Description

57 Operating lever (87)

No.

Description

58 Locking nut (90)

135

Chapter 6/Gearbox seating is suspect tap the ball firmly into its seat with a soft metal drift. 4. Reassembly is a straightforward reversal of the removal sequence. Do not omit to fit the copper wash¬ er on the relief valve between the cap and main casing, and hold the non-return valve ball to its spring with pet¬ roleum jelly during refitment. 5. Access to the operating valve can be gained only after removing the remote control assembly from inside the car. Undo the plug and check that the ball is lifted 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated. Failure to move, points to a fault in the solenoid or operating arm. 6. The ball can be removed with a magnet and the valve with a piece of 1/8 inch wire. Check the ball and seat and clean out the small hole in the side of the valve tube. Check if the oil pump is working by jacking the rear of the car off the ground, placing the car in top gear, engaging overdrive and with the engine running watching if oil is being pumped into the valve chamber. Replacement is a reversal of the removal procedure.

the two short studs that secure the solenoid bracket as¬ sembly (79) to the main casing (1). Also undo the two setscrews (painted red) (81) so as to release the ac¬ cumulator spring (78) tension. Do not remove the two setscrews first. Lift away the solenoid bracket (79) followed by the spring (78) and spacer tube assembly (75). 7.

The pump return valve is positioned in the cavity

of the main body casing once the solenoid bracket assem¬ bly (79) is removed. Undo and lift out the hexagonal plug (33) and washer (32) followed by the spring (31), plunger (30) and ball bearing (29). 8. Wash all valve parts in petrol and allow to dry. En¬ sure that the valve is clear of any foreign matter. In¬ spect the ball bearing for signs of pitting which, if evi¬ dent, a new bearing should be obtained. meter of J inch. 9.

It has a dia¬

Insert the ball bearing and tap, using a soft metal

drift and a hammer, to re-set it. Insert the plunger (30), spring (31) and plug (33) with a new copper washer (32), fitted under its head. Check that the copper washer seats on its location correctly to ensure no oil leaks.

16. Overdrive - pump non-return valve

10. Insert the accumulator spring (78) into the tube (75) and fit the accumulator tube (75) into the recess in the accumulator sleeve (73) still in the main casing. 11. Fit a new 'O' ring over the operating shaft (9) if one was originally fitted and using a new joint washer (80)

If the overdrive unit does not function correctly, and the fault is diagnosed from the fault diagnosis chart that the pump non-return valve is not operating properly it may be removed and checked as follows:1. It will be seen that by referring to Fig. 6. 9 the pump non-return valve components (29-33) are situated in the solenoid side of the main casing (1). To gain access to the valve first drain the oil from the unit by undoing and removing the drain plug (27). 2. It is recommended that whenever the drain plug is removed the filter (25) and three magnetic rings (26) be cleaned before refitting. 3. Undo the three bolts, plate (93) and gasket (94).

spring washers (96), cover

4. Undo the solenoid retaining bolts (100) and lift away the bolts, spring washers (101) and the solenoid by dis¬ connecting the solenoid plunger from the yoke of the operating valve lever (87). 5.

Slacken the clamp bolt nut (90) and withdraw the

operating lever (87) from the end of the valve operating shaft (9) followed by the distance collar (86). 6.

136

Remove the nuts (84) and spring washers (83) from

refit the solenoid bracket (79) ensuring that the accumu¬ latorspring (78) locates over a dowel (85) in the bracket. 12. Tighten the two screws (81) with spring washers (82) evenly and then the nuts (84) with spring washers onto the two short studs (6). 13.

Slide the distance collar (86) onto the lever shaft

(9). 14. Refit the operating lever (87) to the lever shaft and lightly tighten the locknut (90). 15. Fit a new joint washer (99) to the solenoid bracket (79) and insert the solenoid plunger into the yoke in the operating lever. 16. Secure the solenoid (97) to the bracket with the two bolts (100) and spring washers (101). 17. It will now be necessary to set the solenoid opera¬ ting lever and full details of this are given in Section 13 of this Chapter. 18.

Fit a new cover plate gasket (94) and then the cover

plate (93). Secure with three bolts (95) and spring wa¬ shers (96). 19. Top up the level of oil in the gearbox and overdrive unit.

Fault Finding Chart - Gearbox (Manual) Cause

Trouble

Remedy

SYMPTOM: WEAK OR INEFFECTIVE SYNCHROMESH General wear Synchronising cones worn, split or damaged Baulk ring synchromesh dogs worn, or damaged SYMPTOM: JUMPS OUT OF GEAR General wear or damage

SYMPTOM: EXCESSIVE NOISE Lack of maintenance General wear

Broken gearchange fork rod spring Gearbox coupling dogs badly worn

Dismantle new gear cones. Dismantle new baulk

and overhaul gearbox. Fit wheels and synchronising and overhaul gearbox. Fit ring synchromesh.

Selector fork rod groove badly worn Selector fork rod securing screw and locknut loose

Dismantle and replace spring. Dismantle gearbox. Fit new coupling dogs. Fit new selector fork rod. Remove side cover, tighten securing screw and locknut.

Incorrect grade of oil in gearbox or oil level too low Bush or needle roller bearings worn or damaged Gearteeth excessively worn or dam¬ aged Laygear thrust washers worn allow¬ ing excessive end play

Drain, refill, or top up gearbox with correct grade of oil. Dismantle and overhaul gearbox. Re¬ new bearings. Dismantle, overhaul gearbox. Renew gearwheels. Dismantle and overhaul gearbox. Re¬ new thrust washers.

SYMPTOM: EXCESSIVE DIFFICULTY IN ENGAGING GEAR Clutch not fully disengaging Clutch pedal adjustment incorrect

Adjust clutch pedal correctly.

Overdrive — Fault Diagnosis

1. Overdrive does not engage

(f) Damaged parts within the unit necessitating removal and inspection of the assembly.

(a) (b)

3. Clutch slip in overdrive

Insufficient oil in gearbox. Failure of switches or wiring (visually check sole¬

noid operation) (c) Control mechanism out of adjustment. (d) (e)

Check hydraulic pressure. If insufficient pressure, clean and re-seat oil pump

non-return valve. (f) Damaged parts within the unit requiring removal and inspection of the assembly.

(a) Insufficient oil in gearbox. (b) Solenoid lever out of adjustment. (c) Insufficient hydraulic pressure due to pump non¬ return valve incorrectly seating. (d) Insufficient hydraulic pressure due to worn accum¬ ulator piston. (e) Operating valve incorrectly seating. (f) Worn or glazed clutch lining.

2. Overdrive does not release (a)

Control mechanism out of adjustment.

(b) (c)

Solenoid sticking. Blocked restrictor jet in operating valve.

(d) (e)

Electrical circuit earthed. Sticking clutch (can sometimes be freed by tapping

casing with soft mallet).

4. Clutch slip in reverse or free-wheel condition of overdrive (a) (b)

Check solenoid setting. Partially blocked restrictor jet in operating valve.

(c)

Worn clutch lining.

137

Chapter 7/Automatic Gearbox Contents General description.. Driving technique .

1 2

Automatic transmission fluid level.

3

Maintenance. Automatic transmission - removal and replace¬

a

ment .'

5

Downshift cable adjustment.

6

Selector linkage adjustment.

7

Starter inhibitor/reverse lamp switch. Fault finding.

8 9

Specifications

Automatic transmission type . Torque Convertor ratio range. Gearbox Ratio - First (Low)

.

Second (Intermediate) ... Top (High). Reverse. 1.

General description

Borg-Warner automatic transmission has been fitted to medium and large sized cars for many years and has now been accepted as a desirable feature by many motorists. It takes the place of the clutch and gearbox which are, of course, mounted behind the engine. The automatic transmission system comprises two main components: (1) a three-element hydrokinetic tor¬ que converter coupling capable of torque multiplication at an infinitely variable ratio between 2:1 and 1:1; (2) a torque/speed responsive and hydraulically operated epicyclic gearbox comprising a planetary gear set pro¬ viding three forward ratios and one reverse ratio. Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission unit, if performance is not up to standard, or overhaul is necessary, it is imperative that this be left to the lo¬ cal main agents who will have the special equipment and knowledge for fault diagnosis and rectification.

Borg-Warner Model 35 Infinitely valuable between 1:1 and 2:1 operating in all gears 2. 39:1 1.45:1 1. 0:1 2. 09:1 selected. To select 'P' the lever must be moved as far as it will go to the left. Each selector lever position controls the system as follows:'P' This is the park position whereby no engine power is transmitted to the driving wheels and the transmission is locked by mechanical means. For safety reasons it is recommended that this position be used whenever the car is parked or when the engine is to be run for tuning or adjustment. Serious damage will result if this posi¬ tion is selected whilst the car is moving. 'R' Reverse position whereby the car can be driven in reverse and, to assist control, full engine braking is available. As with the 'P' position it is important not to select 'R' whilst the car is moving forwards. 'N' This is the neutral or normal position whereby no engine torque is transmitted to the driving wheels. Al¬ ways apply the handbrake when the selector is in the 'N' position and the car is stationary. 'D' For normal driving conditions this is the usual pos¬ ition for the selector lever and gives a fully automatic range of three forward ratios, all of which are pro¬

The content of this Chapter is therefore confined to supplying general information and any service informa¬ tion and instruction that can be used by the owner.

gressively engaged up and down depending on the position of the speed of the car and the accelerator pedal.

2.

ridden for first and second ratios and also gives full engine braking.

'L' In this position the automatic ratio change is over¬ Driving technique

The selection lever is mounted on a console placed between the two front seats and controls the operation of the automatic transmission. There are five lever positions marked on the quadrant and these are 'P\ 'R', 'N', 'D' and 'L\

As a safety factor to prevent direct

selection from 'N', the lever must be moved to the left against the action of a spring before 'L' or 'R' can be

138

Starting the engine The starter motor may be operated only when the selector lever is in the'P' or 'N' position this being controlled by a micro switchbehind the selector fascia. For safety reasons always apply either the handbrake or footbrake before starting the engine. Care should be taken when starting the engine from

FIG. 7:1 THE BORG-WARNER MODEL 35 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

FIG. 7:2 THE TORQUE CONVERTER

FIG. 7:3 DIAGRAMMATIC OPERATION OF TORQUE CONVERTER No.

Description

1 Turbine

No.

Description

3 Stator

2 Impeller

139

Chapter 7/Automatic Gearbox cold using choke control. Stalling should be avoided if this control is left out sufficiently to increase engine

If correctly set the 'kick-down' changes will not operate above the following tabulated speeds

speed until the engine has reached normal operating

Ratio change

Road speed

temperature. At the faster idle speedwhen the selector lever is moved to 'D' or 'L' a firm engagement will be

3rd to 2nd 2nd to 1st

53-56 mph 25-30 mph

obtained but this has no ill effects on the automatic transmission unit.

Special driving or recovery conditions 1.

Stopping.

To slow down or stop remove the foot

Normal driving conditions Selector in 'D' position

from the accelerator pedal and depress the foot brake in the usual way. The engine will not stall.

Once the engine has been started and is running evenly with the brake firmly applied move the selector lever to the required position. To drive away release the brake and gently depress the accelerator pedal. In the >D' position all forward ratios will be progressively

2. Parking. With the car stationary move the selector to the 'P' position and apply the handbrake. If the car

and automatically engaged as the speed increases or de¬ creases. This means that the ratio automatically sel¬ ected will be suitable for both the speed of the car as well as road conditions determining engine power re¬ quired. If a minimum accelerator pedal pressure is utilised the automatic transmission is changed up at low road speeds and conversely if the accelerator pedal is de¬ pressed to the full throttle position the changes will be at higher road speeds. Further pressure on the accel¬ erator pedal will produce a 'kick-down' condition and will give change up speeds at near maximum engine speeds.

has been parked on a steep gradient move the selector to the 'D' position and increase the engine speed slightly if facing uphill, or if facing downhill move selector to the 'R' position and increase the engine speed slightly then release the handbrake. 3. Soft surfaces. When the front wheels will not grip the road surface due to snow, ice or mud conditions, rock the car fowards and backwards by moving the sel¬ ector alternatively to the 'R' and 'D'positions and rais¬ ing the engine speed slightly. 4. Towing. If a caravan, boat or trailer is being towed always select the 'L' position before ascending or des¬ cending steep hills to stop overheating of the special transmission fluid and also to receive benefit from en¬ gine braking assistance.

A smooth start from rest is always obtained and is not dependant on the accelerator pedal position.

5. Recovery towing. Should it be necessary to have the car towed to a garage the distance must not exceed 20 miles and the speed should not exceed 30 mph. Towing

Selector in 'L' position

is permissible providing only that the transmission is not damaged and that the oil level is correct. Put the

With the selector lever in this position and starting from rest, the transmission will be in the first speed ratio and will remain in this ratio irrespective of road speed or accelerator pedal position. This first ratio gives maximum engine braking. If the transmission is in the third ratio of the 'D' range with a road speed of below 55 mph, selection of 'L' will immediately down change the system to the second ratio with moderate engine braking. Should the road speed drop to below 5 mph the first ratio will automat¬ ically be selected. The 'L' position is best used in the following con¬ ditions :1. To give the driver engine braking assistancewhilst the car is descending a steep hill. Depress the foot brake until the road speed decreases to below 55 mph and then select the 'L' position.

To obtain maximum

engine braking assistance first ratio may be obtained below 25 mph by depressing the accelerator to the 'Kick-down' position; 2. To prevent considerable ratio changing when the car is being driven up a long hill of unequal gradients; 3.

selector lever in the 'N' position. If there are noises emitting from the transmission, or the towing distance is greater than 20 miles, the propeller shaft should be disconnected and completely removed and the end of the transmission sealed to prevent entry of dust. As an al¬ ternative the car can be suspended and towed with the rear wheels off the ground. 6. Tow-Starting. Due to the design characteristics of the automatic transmission it is not possible to towstart the car.

3.

Automatic transmission fluid level

It is important that transmissionfluids manufactured only to the correct specification, such as Castrol TQ, are used. The capacity of the unit is approximately 11^ pints when dry, but for a drain and refill, which is not actually necessary except during repairs, the capacity will be approximately 6 pints as the converter cannot be completely drained. The location of the dipstick is shown in Fig. 7. 5. /

To give immediate extra engine torque as would be

necessary when it is desired to overtake another vehicle. 4. Maintenance Increased acceleration If a lower ratio is required, as when it is desired to overtake another vehicle, depress the accelerator pedal down as far as it will go into the 'kick-down' po¬ sition. The use of the 'kick-down' position is under direct control from the driver except that the maximum down change speeds have been previously set to give the best car performance yet without excessive engine speed.

140

1.

Ensure that the converter housingstoveguardis al¬

ways kept clean of dust or mud otherwise overheating will occur. 2.

Every 6, 000 miles or more frequently if w*shed,

check the automatic transmission fluid level. With the engine at its normal operating temperature move the selector to the 'P' position and allow to idle for two, minutes.

Remove the dipstick, wipe it clean and with

FIG. 7:4 MAIN MECHANICAL COMPONENTS FITTED INTO AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION No.

Description

1 Engine crankshaft 2 Turbine 3 Impeller

Torque converter

No.

Description

No.

Description

No.

Description

7 Rear clutch

13 Forward sun gear and shaft

19 Rear clutch spring

8 Front brake band

14 Parking pawl teeth

20 Rear clutch plates

9 Uni-directional clutch

15 Short planet pinion

21 Front clutch piston 22 Front clutch spring

4 Stator

10 Rear brake band

16 Long planet pinion

5 Input shaft

11 Planet pinion carrier

17 Reverse sun gear

6 Front clutch

12 Ring gear and output shaft

18 Rear clutch piston

(Diaphragm type) 23 Front clutch plates

141

FIG. 7;5 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK LOCATION

FIG. 7:6 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION UNIT CROSS MEMBER No. Description No. Description 1 Distance tubes 4 Bolts 2 Bushes 3 Nuts

5 Support bracket

FIG. 7:7 DRAIN PLUG (ARROWED)

riO. 7:8 BLANKING ROLE PLUG REMOVED SHOWING DR] PLATE BOLT HAND

n

FIG. 7:9 TORQUE CONVERTER HOUSING LOWER MOUNTING NUTS

FIG. 7:10 DOWNSHIFT CABLE CONNECTION No. Description No. Description 7 Split pin 1 Bracket 8 Inner cable 2 Plain washer 9 Crimped stop 3 Nyloc nut 10 Cable aburment 4 Clevis pin 11 Lock nut 5 Clevis fork 12 Outer cable end sleeve 6 Plain washer

FIG. 7:11 POSITION OF DOWNSHIFT CAM AT ENGINE IDLE CONDITION

O.

>y«wncn

! S-L

itTCHWOBTH HtRTf fwCLAN

FIG. 7;12SELECTOR LINKAGE (VIEW FROM UNDERSIDE OF CAR)

FIG. 7:13 STARTER INHIBITOR/REVERSE LAMP SWITCH WIRING CONNECTION Description No. Description No 2 Reverse lamp switch terminals 1 Starter inhibitor switch terminals

143

Chapter 7/Automatic Gearbox the engine idling insert the dipstick and quickly withdraw again. If necessary add enough of the clean correct grade fluid to bring the level to the 'High' mark. The

the sump and take the weight of the engine with an hy¬ draulic jack. 15. Support the weight of the automatic transmission unit using similar means as for the engine.

difference between the two dipstick graduations is 1 pint. 3. If the unit has been drained always use new fluid.

16. Refer to Fig. 7.6, and undo the nuts (3).

Fill up to the correct 'high' level gradually refilling the unit; the exact amount will depend on how much was left

Remove

the nylon bushes (2) and steel distance tubes (1). away the bolts (4).

in the converter after draining but the usual average re¬ quired is 6 pints. Check the level as detailed in para¬ graph 2 of this section.

Lift

17. Undo the nuts and bolts securing the torque conver¬ ter housing to the engine, the lower mounting nuts being shown in Fig. 7. 9. 18. Very carefully move the transmission unit rear¬ wards and lower away from the underside of the car.

5.

19. Refitting the automatic transmission unit is the re¬ verse sequence to the above. It will, however, be ne¬ cessary to adjust the downshift cable and selector link¬ age. Check the level of the fluid in the transmission unit and top up as necessary using correct grade oil.

Automatic transmission - removal and replacement

1. Any suspected faults must be referred to the main agent before unit removal as with this type of trans¬ mission its fault must be confirmed using special equip¬ ment before it has been removed from the car. 2. As the automatic gearbox is relatively heavy it is best if the car is raised from the ground on ramps but it is also possible to remove the unit if the car is placed on high axle stands. 3.

Disconnect the battery earth terminal.

4. Undo the three exhaust front pipe to manifold joint retaining nuts and separate the joint. Lift away the gas¬ ket. 5. Undo the front pipe to intermediate pipe silencer joint clip clamping bolt and lift away the nut spring and

6.

Downshift cable adjustment

™ ib aujuscean is necessary to con¬ firm that it is the cable that is maladjusted and not some other fault. Generally if difficulty is experienced in obtaining 2:1 downshift in the 'kick-down'position at just below 31 mph it is an indication that the outer cable is too short. If there is a bumpy or delayed shift at low throttle opening it is an indication the outer cable is too long.

plain washers. Also undo the clip holding the tail pipe and silencer assembly to the intermediate pipe and sil¬

During production of the car the adjustment is set by a crimped stop on the carburettor end of the inner cable and it is unusual for this setting to change except

encer joint and lift away the front and intermediate pipes. Undo the bolt holding the support bracket (5), Fig. 7. 6, and lift away the bracket.

at high mileages when the inner cable can stretch. adjust proceed as follows :-

6. Remove the four propeller universal joint flange re¬ taining nuts and bolts at the differential unit pinion flange. Slide the splined end of the propeller shaft (early cars) or disconnect the flange (later cars) from the rear of the automatic transmission unit and lift away the propeller shaft. 7. Disconnect the electrical cables from the starter inhibitor and reverse lamp switch located on the near¬ side of the casing, having first noted the colour coding of the cables to ensure correct refitting. 8. Undo the speedometer cable and remove the angle cable from the right hand side of the automatic trans¬ mission housing. 9. Disconnect the transmission filler tube from the casing. 10. Release the selector lever from the end of the transmission cross shaft. 11. If an oil cooler is fitted to the transmission unit the two pipes should be disconnected and a container placed underneath the open pipes and unions to catch any oil that drains out. Undo the drain plug shown in Fig 7 7 and drain all oil from the unit into a container having a capacity of at least 8 pints. 12. Refer to Fig. 7. 8 and remove the rubber blanking Plug. 13.

Using a socket wrench inserted through the blanking

plug hole and rotating the engine, undo the four bolts se¬ curing the torque converter to the engine drive plate. 14.

If the car is on a ramp support the weight of the

To

1. Apply the handbrake firmly and chock the front wheels for safety reasons. 2.

Run the engine until it reaches normal operating

temperature. Adjust the engine idle speed to approxi¬ mately 500 rpm with the selector in the 'D' position. 3. Stop the engine and with an open spanner slacken the locknut (11), Fig. 7.10, and adjust the outer cable control to the stop (9). Should the stop have been moved or be loose it will be necessary to remove the trans¬ mission sump pan. 4. Reset the engine idle to normal speed with the sel¬ ector in the 'N' position. Stop the engine. 5.

Wipe the area around the drain plug and sump

Place a clean container of at least 8 pints capacity un¬ der the pan drain plug. Undo the plug and allow the oil to drain into the container. 6 Undo and remove the fifteen sump pan retaining bolts and spring washers. Take care not to damage the joint between the transmission casing and sump pan. 7 Refer to Fig. 7.11 and check that the position of the downshift cam is in the idling position as shown in the illustration, 8. Adjust the length of the outer cable so as to remove all the slack from the inner cable ?• refer to Fig. 7.11 and check the position of the downshift cam with the throttle pedal in the 'lackdown' position as shown in the illustration 10

Refit the sump pan joint, sump pan and returning

bolts with spring washers. gonal pattern.

Tighten the bolts in a dia¬

engine using a tall axle stand or ramp jacking member. If the car is on axle stands place a piece of wood under

144

Re!iU the transmission with correct grade hydrau¬ lic fluid or use the fluid that was drained originally if it

No.

Description

1 Knob

FIG. 7:14 SELECTOR LEVER AND LINKAGE COMPONENT PARTS No. Description No. Description 7 Bias spring 13 Selector rod

No. Description 19 Plain washer

2 Screw

8 Selector box

14 Selector lever

20 Locknut

3 Grommet

9 Circlip

15 Clip

21 Nyloc nut

4 Gate plate

10 Spindle

16 Nyloc nut

22 Plain washers

5 Tower

11 Ball end

17 Nyloc nut

23 Handlever

6 Bolt

12 Locknut

18 Lever

24 Rivet

145

Chapter 7/Automatic Gearbox is clean with no streaks showing signs of contamination.

ignites. 5.

Now screw the switch in slowly until the test lamp

bulb extinguishes and make a pencil mark on the switch 7. Selector linkage adjustment It is best if this adjustment is carried out with the

and casing. 6. Disconnect the test lamp circuit from the reverse terminals and reconnect them to the starter inhibitor

car placed on ramps. As an alternative the car may be placed on high axle stands.

terminals. The test lamp bulb should be off. 7. Gradually screw in the switch until the test lamp

2. Refer to Fig. 7.14 and disconnect the ball end as¬ sembly (11) from the selector lever (23). 3. Position the selector lever in position 'N' and the

ignites. This will take approximately f turn from the pencil marked position. Make a new pencil mark on the transmission case opposite to the pencil mark on the

gearbox selector lever in'N'position which is the second

switch. 8. Disconnect the test lamp circuit. Unscrew the switch until the switch pencil mark is in the midway

1.

position from 'P'. 4. Undo the locknut (12) and adjust the operating rod length (13). Re-tighten the locknut and refit the ball end assembly to the selector lever. 5. Check that the selector lever moves easily in each

position between the two previously made marks on the

one of the five selector positions confirming an accurate adjustment.

the switch terminals. 10. Check the switch for correct operation.

8. Starter inhibitor/reverse lamp switch

9.

1. This switch is illustrated in Fig. 7.13 and shows the four electrical connections.

As has been mentioned elsewhere in this Chapter no service repair work to the automatic transmission should be considered due to the complexity of its design and the need for specialised knowledge. A table and

2. Move the selection lever to position 'L' and working from the underside of the car disconnect all four leads from the switch. 3. Slacken the switch locknut. 4. Connect a 12 volt test lamp and battery circuit across the two reverse lamp terminals (see Fig. 7.13). Gradually unscrew the switch until the test lamp bulb

casing. 9. Tighten the locknut and connect all four cables to

Fault finding

fault diagnosis procedure is given in this Chapter so that if a fault should appear the owner can carry out a little diagnostic work to show the area in which the fault could be existant and possibly alleviate the fear of expensive repairs.

Automatic Transmission — Fault Diagnosis

Stall Test Procedure

The function of a stall test is to determine that the torque converter and gearbox are operating satisfactor¬ ily1. Check the condition of the engine. An engine which is not developing full power will affect the stall test readings. 2. Allow the engine and transmission to reach correct working temperatures. 3. Connect the tachometer to the vehicle. 4. Chock the wheels and apply the handbrake and footbrake. 5. Select L or R and depress the throttle to the "kickdown" position. Note the reading on the tachometer which should be 1,800 r. p. m. If the reading is below 1,000 r. p. m. suspect the converter for stator slip. If the reading is down to 1,200 r. p. m. the engine is not developing full power. If the reading is in excess of 2,000 r. p. m. suspect the gearbox for brake band or clutch slip. NOTE: Do not carry out a stall test for a longer period than 10 seconds, otherwise the transmission will become overheated.

146

Converter Diagnosis Inability to start on steep gradients, combined with poor acceleration from rest and low stall speed (1,000 r. p. m.), indicates that the converter stator uni-direc¬ tional clutch is slipping. This condition permits the stator to rotate in an opposite direction to the impeller and turbine, and torque multiplication cannot occur. Poor acceleration in third gear above 30 m.p. h. and reduced maximum speed, indicates that the stator uni¬ directional clutch has seized. The stator will not rotate with the turbine and impeller and the "fluid flywheel" phase cannot occur. This condition will also be indi¬ cated by excessive overheating of the transmission al¬ though the stall speed will be correct.

Road Test Procedure 1.

Check that the engine will only start with the selec¬

tor lever in P or N and that the reverse lights operate only in R. 2.

Apply the handbrake and with the engine idling sel¬

ect N-D, N-Rand N-L. Engagement should be positive. 3. With the transmission at normal running tempera¬ ture, select D, release the brakes, and accelerator with minimum throttle. Check 1-2 and 2-3 shift speeds and quality of change.

Automatic Transmission - Fault Diagnosis 4.

At a minimum road speed of 30m.p. h. select Nand

switch off ignition.

9. Stop the vehicle, select D and re-start using "kickdown". Check the 1-2 and 2-3 shift speeds.

Allow the road speed to drop to ap¬

proximately 28 m. p. h. , switch on the ignition, select D and the engine should start.

the throttle.

5. Stop the vehicle, select D and re-start, using "full throttle". Check 1-2 and 2-3 shift speeds and quality of change.

11. With L still engaged stop the vehicle and accelerate to over 25 m.p.h. using "kickdown". Check for slip,

6. At 25 m.p.h. apply "full throttle". The vehicle should accelerate in third gear and should not downshift to second.

"sqawk" and absence of upshifts. 12. Stop the vehicle and select R. Reverse using "full throttle" if possible. Checkfor slip and clutch "sqawk".

7. At a maximum of 57 m. p. h. "kickdown" fully. transmission should downshift to second.

13. Stop the vehicle on a gradient. Apply the handbrake and select P. Check the parking pawl hold when the handbrake is released. Turn the vehicle around and re¬ peat the procedure. Check that the selector lever is held firmly in the gate in P.

10.

The

8. At a maximum of 31 m.p.h. in third gear "kickdown" fully. The transmission should downshift tofirst gear.

At 40 m. p. h.

in third gear, select L and release

Check 2-3 downshift and engine braking.

FAULT DIAGNOSIS CHART

KEY TO FAULT DIAGNOSIS CHART Preliminary Adjustment Faults

Example of use:

Fault — Bumpy engagement of D — first fault given in chart. Items 1 to 7, given as D B d f c O Q in the chart key, are checked in this letter order.

A.

Fluid level insufficient.

B.

Downshift valve cable incorrectly assembled or adjusted.

C.

Manual linkage incorrectly assembled or adjusted.

NUMBERS INDICATE THE RECOMMENDED SEQUENCE OF FAULT INVESTIGATION

D. Incorrect engine idling speed. Faults

Adjustment Faults

Mechanical Faults

Hydraulic Control Faults

E.

Incorrect front band adjustment.

F.

Incorrect rear band adjustment.

Hydraulic Control Faults A B C D E F a b c d e f g h 1 m n P q s N O p Q R S T U V w X Y Z Engagement of R, D or L Bumpy .. Delayed None

2 1 1

Take-off None forward .. None reverse Seizure reverse .. No neutral

5 3 4 7 6 5 3 4 5 6

6

4 13 8 9

3 2 2 7 6 5

1 1 1

2

Upshift quality Slip 1-2 . Slip 2-3 . Rough 1-2 Rough 2-3 Seizure 1-2 Seizure 2-3

1 2 3 1 2 3 1

4 4 2 2

1

i 1

8 9 10 9 10 11 10 6 5 6 2 3 4

6 7 3 3

6 7 3 6 7 2 2 7 3 2 3

5

3 4 4 5 6 4

5

6 7 8 4 3 5 3

1 1

5 6

5 9 5 2

3 3

2 2

4 4

2 2

3 7 8 3

5

Valve body assembly screws missing or not correctly tightened.

d.

Primary regulator valve sticking.

e.

Secondary regulator valve sticking.

f.

Throttle valve sticking.

g.

Modulator valve sticking.

h.

Governor valve sticking, leaking or incor¬ rectly assembled.

l.

Orifice control valve sticking.

m.

1-2 shift valve sticking.

n.

2-3 shift valve sticking.

p.

2-3 shift valve plunger sticking.

q.

Converter “out” check valve missing or sticking.

s.

Pump check valve missing or sticking.

Mechanical Faults N. Front clutch slipping due to worn plates or faulty parts. O.

Front clutch seized or plates distorted.

P.

Rear clutch slipping due to worn plates or faulty check valve in piston.

4

9

2

2 4

Sealing rings missing or broken.

c.

3 4

4 5

3 2

■

Q.

Rear clutch seized or plates distorted.

R.

Front band slipping due to faulty servo, broken or worn band.

S.

Rear band slipping due to faulty servo, broken or worn band.

T.

Uni-directional clutch slipping or incorrectly installed.

1

U. Uni-directional clutch seized.

6 7 8

V. Stall speed Below 1,000 Over 2,000

.

No push start. Overheating

1

2

3 4 5 6 7

8

1

2

6 5 8 9 10 11

3 7

1

2 3

9

Oil tubes missing or not installed correctly.

b.

7 8

3 5 6 5 6

Downshift quality Slip 2-1 . Slip 3-2 . Rough 2-1 Rough 3-2

8

4

2 1 1

10

5 9

7 8 4 5 6 4

1 I 1

12 7 8 9

11

2 2

8 9 10 8 9 10 8 9 10 5 6

1 1

10

3 4

3

1 1

7

4

1

Upshifts No. 1-2 . No. 2-3 . Above normal shift speed Below normal shift speed

Downshifts No. 2-1 . No. 3-2 . Involuntary high speed 3-2 .. Above normal shift speed Below normal shift speed

1 2 3 2

a.

10 11

1 13

12 12

4

Input shaft broken.

W. Front pump drive tanges on converter hub broken. X.

Front pump worn.

Y.

Rear pump worn.

Z.

Converter blading clutch failed.

and/or

uni-directional

1

147

Chapter 8/Propeller Shaft & Universal Joints Contents General description. Propeller shaft - removal and replacement ...

1

Universal joints - inspection and repair

2

Universal joints - dismantling

.

4 5

Universal joints - reassembly

.

6

Drive shaft universal joints - removal and replacement

.

3

Specifications Normal and Overdrive

Borg-Warner Condition

Conditions Part Number

.

211486 214352 (overdrive only). from Comm. No. MB. 74882 DLO

Length (closed). (Flange face to joint centre) .

46.79 in. (1188.5mm)

Extension.

1.25 in. (31.8mm)

305949 (up to Comm. No. MB 18767 BW) 307397 (from Comm. No. MB 18768 BW)

46.44 in. (1180mm).

Maximum run-out (at ends) . (at centre). Maximum out of balance (at each end)

.

Mounting flange holes P. C. D.

0.008 in. (0.203mm) 0.012 in. (0.305mm) 0.5 in. ozs. (36.1cm. grm.) 2.997 in. (76.0mm) 3.003 in. (76.2mm)

As the models of cars covered by this manual can be

1. General description Drive is transmitted from the gearbox to the rear

0.012 in. (0.305mm) 0.016 in. (0.406mm)

fitted according to the specifications, with a conventional gearbox, conventional gearbox plus overdrive, or auto¬

axle by means of a finely balanced Hardy Spicer tubular

matic transmission, a range of propeller shafts to suit

propeller shaft. Fitted at each end of the shaft is a universal joint which allows for vertical movement of the rear axle.

the vehicle specification will be found mentioned in the specification at the commencement of this Chapter. The basic design is identical in all cases except the length, differing to suit the application. However, on the

Each universal joint comprises a fourlegged centre spider, four needle roller bearings and two yokes. Fore and aft movement of the rear axle is absorbed by a sliding spline in the front of the propeller shaft,

but on later models this was modified to a flange coupling.

which is splined and mates with a sleeve and yoke as¬ sembly. When assembled a dust cap, steel washer, and cork washer seal the end of the sleeve and sliding joint.

2. Propeller shaft - removal and replacement

earlier cars fittedwith automatic transmission, a splined coupling was used at the gearbox end instead of a flange

The yoke flange of the front universal joint is fitted to the gearbox mainshaft flange with four bolts, spring washers and nuts, and the yoke flange of the rear U. J. is

1. Jack up the rear of the car, or position the rear of the car over a pit or on a ramp.

secured to the pinion flange on the rear axle in the same

2.

way.

jack with support blocks so that danger is minimised should the jack collapse.

The propeller shaft is a relatively simple component and to overhaul and repair it is fairly easy.

148

3.

If the rear of the car is jacked up supplement the

If the rear wheels are off the ground place the car in

Fig. 8.1.

Fig. 8. 2.

The basic propeller shaft used jn overdrive equipped vehicles up to Commission No. MB. 74881DLO and on all manual trans¬ mission vehicle”

The splined coupling used on propeller shafts fitted to Borg-Warner vehicles

Fig. 8. 3. The revised propeller shaft end, which incorporates a rubber insert. This type of shaft is used on Borg-Warner vehicles from Commission No. MB. 18768BW and on overdrive equipped ve¬ hicles from Commission No. MB. 74882DLO

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Fig. 13. 8. Ventilator removal.

No. Description 1 Clip 2 Seal 3 Glass 4 Channel 5 Seal 6 Glazing strip 7 Channel 8 Channel 9 Seal 10 Clip 11 Plate 12 Hinge 13 Setscrew 14 Knob 15 Rod 16 Washer 17 Pivot stud

248

Fig. 13.10. Removal of door -lock from door panel Fig. 13. 9. Removal of window winder regulator from door panel

Fig. 13.11 REAR No. Description 18 Setscrew 19 Check link 20 Hinge 21 Hinge 22 Setscrew 23 Bracket 24 Clip 25 Setscrew 26 Setscrew 27 Plastic curtain 28 Capping 29 Setscrew 30 Spring 31 Bezel 32 Handle 33 Pin 34 Handle

COMPONENT PARTS No. Description 35 Capping 36 Bolt 37 Spring washer 38 Plain washer 39 Arm rest 40 Trim panel 41 Plastic curtain 42 Setscrew 43 Stop 44 Plastic curtain 45 Winding mechanism 46 Channel 47 Clip 48 Washer 49 Remote control 50 Clip 51 Setscrew

No. Description 52 Striker plate 53 Lock mechanism 54 Striker plate 55 Setscrew 56 Setscrew 57 Striker assembly 58 Clip 59 Setscrew 60 Channel 61 Channel 62 Grommet 63 Setscrew 64 Seal 65 Handle 66 Seal

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