Haynes Range Rover 1970 thru 1980 Owners Workshop Manual 0856966061, 9780856966064

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Range Rover Owners Workshop Manual Philip Methuen and lan Coomber Models covered All standard production models of the Range Rover with 3528 cc V8 engine Does not cover specialist conversions or optional equipment

ISBN O 85696 606 1

©

Haynes Publishing Group 1982

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in

RLMNO

any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,

ad

recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320 USA EDINBURGH CITY

BA22 7JJ ENGLAND

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Land Rover Limited for the provision of technical information and for the use of certain illustrations. The Champion Sparking Plug Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. Castrol Limited suppled the Jubri-

cation data.

Special thanks are due to Mr. Dick Motors who kindly loaned us the Range

Robathan of Camel Cross Rover used as the project

vehicle for this manual. ‘

About

this manual

Its aim The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed, in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

[ts arrangement The manual is divided into twelve Chapters, each covering a logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from

Introduction to the Range The Range Rover was first introduced in 1970 and has not looked back since, as it has been a remarkable success both at home and abroad. Production has never been able to keep up with demand even though output has been considerably increased: The introduction of the. Range Rover was not intended to eclipse the success story of the more basic Land-Rover but to complement it and widen the scope of Land-Rover capability. Powered by the well proven all alloy Rover 34 litre V8 engine and with permanent 4-wheel drive, the Range Rover set totally new standards in the field of both on and off-road performance and

the Section or sub-section to which they relate. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards. Unless otherwise stated nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions, from the information given.

Rover much the same way as the Land-Rover, but it also has an amazing main road performance, when it is considered that the top speed is around 95 mph. Also the luggage area is cavernous, and it is good as a towing vehicle. Like the. Land-Rover it features a rigid box section chassis and most of the body panels are aluminium, although the tailgate is not,

and this rusts very quickly. In really tough going the differential unit in the transfer gearbox can be locked up to provide maximum

traction at

on average). gearbox and but this is a

all four wheels. Unlike the Land-Rover however braking is by disc brakes on all four wheels. Throughout the ten years of Range Rover production there have been minor additions and modifications, but the basic vehicle has remained the same. The 1980 model has been given a facelift externally and internally to bring it up to modern motoring standards. Not only has the Range Rover been a huge success as a vehicle

workhorse in

in its own right, but it has also become in Europe.

comfort. The engine is fitted with low compression cylinder heads to enable it to work happily on 2-star (91 octane rating) petrol. This may

be some compensation for its thirst (around 12 to 14 mpg Transmission is by an all-synchromesh four-speed transfer box to both front and rear axles simultaneously, different gearbox to the Land-Rover itself. Not only can the Range Rover perform as a rugged

the Section they are in, eg 5.1. 5.2, 5.3 etc. It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter: eg Fig. 6.4 is the 4th drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs are numbered (either individually or in related groups) as

a status symbol both here and

Contents Page

Acknowledgements

2

About this manual

2

Introduction to the Range Rover

2

General dimensions, weights and capacities eae eee ee pe Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers oe ee Tools and working facilities ee ee ne ee : . Jacking and towing ee ee A i ee

Recommended

6

eee 7

8

ee 10

eee

lubricants and fluids

11 ee

Ee

pe

12

Safety first! EE ee ee

ees :

Routine maintenance

16

Fault diagnosis ee ee ee ee ee ee Chapter 1 Engine a

13

20

a

a

a

a

a

8 —

, Chapter 2 Cooling system a Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems ee ee ees ee

Chapter 4 Ignition system ae Chapter 5 Clutch SE Chapter 6 Transmission nL Chapter 7 Propeller shaft nn Chapter 8 Front and rear axles nnn Chapter 9 Braking system nnn

52

me

58

j

80 LEEEEEEE EEUEEEEEESSE’ 89

95 EEE 119 EEE 124 ESE UE EEE EEEEE 134 aE UEEEEE SESE 147 Chapter 10 Electrical system ESSE EEE eddy nnn 188 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering ESSE EES ad nnn Sr 207 Chapter 12 Bodywork and fittings UE UaEEEE nn Sarr 220 Conversion factors cae eEEE EEE rn 222 Index

OSEL

eBueY WeAOY UI!

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General dimensions, weights and capacities Dimensions Overal: lOmMgtlinecscsc.cecsscsctsescrsencz-onvercatectuverecesukaseconesnenseasnvees¥e Vera WiCth eeteseeccr ete ceescesscatcsssasvus scxsegssvnuscivensaparestvscertes sees Overall teihts (MAX tiMuy) ieeecassccctornceavs.ceetsevsevsncnatofar=-caceces WN IQ OID ASG areeente cette eects cress Gave aucvavesvsnauetesevacduvivicepsrvhsvectncceses MiKACK —GHROMT. QING) ROAR cas sens cestc.cccsQecusccmscsdecscessescecinerarssderveet Ground clearance: WAGER CIFFENEMtIal es. ccecrccencdvescsseescecscetca teacstarvacrovseecoosnes UNndercenitrevOfivelnicle ccc. chccccassaneesvossesortevee sscordeecencs

RIUM MCINC@terrec stent tccse eon, sives-sesyencsest cateaworarcaresteosteki vasieasetd MailgatexODening —-WIAtH \ncc..2-ccesecvecsoreareoccecesedeeasauncateceoueesd LOACINGHDIATFORM MEIGI Eiccesesccis-ocnsccccvsccectosesrsevsssscarevarvervorese

Weights Kerb weight (includes oil, water and 5 gallons fuel) Maximum vehicle weight (GVW): FORME axl reuceceste bateseaccscovccavaceseraanctessuauexbadusasresabsurte decide

m 4.470 1.780 1.800 2.540 1.490

in

‘0.190 0.317 11.280 1.400 0.660

7.5 225 444 55:25 26

kg

1723

Ib 3800

998 1506 2504 780

2200 3320 5520 1720

176 70 Th 100 58.5

Note: /ncluded in these figures are 100 kg (220 /b) for fitting auxiliaries (eg winches) which must only be fitted to the front of the vehicle

Towing

capacities

kg

Ib

4000 6504

8816 14 336

1000 3504

2204 7724

Trailer and vehicle weight (GTW) Pee eee Roof rack |Odd! —MaxtiUiny ccsvacssctsvssacsede- oenesestesaeystyss carve

6000 8504 50

13 224 18 744 Ur

Capacities

litres

pints

4-wheel road trailer with power braking: Trailer: Welt teers ccsccctsccceccrensecstecs vntnseeta stadcatentttocartatiens

Trailer and vehicle weight (GTW) ‘Off-road’ trailer:

IEPA

Wel Git titacscsssecsccctsccatecssceccveranretravessccceves hevenssvese

Trailer and vehicle weight (GTW) Emergency use on/y — maximum road speed 18 mph (30 km/h): Trailer weights iicispecterccesthcccenasvacessicases athpvaversnateoss unions

Engine oil: SUITPiscercsarertaesincth troukerensacieecar ch eee. tcc ee Oil Tilb@ti es- in BSF 22 mm Z in AF 4 in Whitworth; % in BSF 8 in AF 24 mm 1 in AF & in Whitworth; 3 in BSF 26 mm 1% in AF; 27 mm & in Whitworth; # in BSF 14 in AF 30 mm 4 in Whitworth; ¢ in BSF 1% in AF 32 mm 3 in Whitworth; ¢ in BSF

12 in AF

8 in Whitworth; #@ in BSF 36 mm

14% in AF Z in Whitworth; 1 in BSF 14 in AF 40 mm; #§ in Whitworth 41 mm

12 in AF

1 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF 18 in AF 46 mm

12 in AF 14 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF

1Z in AF

50 mm 2. in AF

14 in Whitworth; 13 in BSF 55 mm 60 mm

lights. of old newspapers and Last, but not least, always keep a supply keep any working area as clean, lint-free rags available, and try to clean as possible.

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

0.250

$+ in AF

0.276

7mm

0.313 O15

& in AF 8 mm

3} in AF; ¢ in Whitworth

0.344

9mm

0.354

2 in AF 10 mm 11 mm % in AF

0.375 0.394 0.433 0.438

2 in Whitworth; 4 in BSF

0.445 0.472

:

12 mm

0.500 0.512

aa

+ in AF 13 mm

removal A Haltrac hoist and gant ry in use during a typical engine

sequence

Jacking and Towing Jacking It is vital that the correct procedure is always followed when changing a roadwheel, or the results could hazard the operator and damage the vehicle. Because the Range Rover is fitted with a transmission-mounted handbrake it is imperative that the main

gearbox

is engaged

in bottom

gear

(1st)

and

that

the

gearbox

differential lock is engaged before the vehicle is jacked up. It is also better if low range is selected in the transfer box. The handbrake alone will not be effective if one or both of the rear wheels are jacked up while either the main or transfer gearbox is in the neutral position, without the differential lock being engaged. Also, because of the amount of backlash in the transmission, and therefore potential foreand-aft movement when the vehicle is jacked up, especially on sloping ground, the wheels, except the one to be removed, must always be chocked. If the vehicle has been standing for some time (eg overnight) and has a flat tyre that needs to be changed, it will be necessary first to start the engine to build up a vacuum in order to operate the gearbox differential lock. This is engaged only when the warning light in the top of the switch (early models) or on the dashboard (later models) is illuminated’ when the ignition is switched on. Once engaged, the engine can then be switched off. Here is a summary of the jacking procedure:

(e) (f)

Position the jack under the appropriate axle Loosen the wheel nuts

(g)

Raise the jack ©

(h) (j) (k)

Change the roadwheel Lower the jack Tighten the wheel nuts

Remember to disengage the differential lock and low transfer gear after completing the wheel change and before continuing on the road. Jack positioning — the jack must be placed under the axle casing adjacent to the wheel to be removed and directly below the coil spring. On the front axle it should be located between the flange on the outer end of the axle casing and the suspension arm mounting bracket. On the rear axle it should be located as near the shock absorber mounting brackets as possible. When working under the vehicle never rely solely on the vehicle jack. Always use axle stands or blocks to adequately support the vehicle before attempting to work underneath it.

Towing

(a) (b) (c)

Engage bottom gear and /ow transfer gear Engage the differential lock and switch off engine Apply the handbrake

When towing a trailer or another vehicle, the specified maximum weights must not be exceeded. Remember also that it is the driver's responsibility to ensure that all current regulations with regard to towing are complied with. In the event of the Range Rover being on the receiving end of a tow-rope, towing eyes are provided on the front bumper mountings

(d)

Chock the roadwheels

(photo).

Correct position for jack at the front of the vehicle

Front towing eye

11

10

7

10

>)

Recommended

lubricants and fluids

on recommended lubricants for These recommendations apply to climates where operation temperatures are above -10°C (14°F). Information Rover distributor or dealer. Range a or Department, Service Technical Ltd, Rover Land from obtained be can conditions winter extreme under use

Castrol product Lubricant type or specification Component or system nr Multigrade engine oil SAE 20W/50 ENGIN ores wxncercaneceserarsnenes 1 Main gearbox’ .............

Multigrade engine oil SAE 20W/50

Front differential .........

Hypoid gear oil SAE 9OEP

Rear differential ..........

Hypoid gear oil SAE 9OEP

Swivel housing ............

Hypoid gear oil SAE 9OEP

Steering box (manual

Hypoid gear oil SAE 9OEP

Power steering (if fitted) ..........ccceeere

Automatic transmission fluid type F

Transfer gearbox’ .......

Multigrade engine oil SAE 20W/50

GTX

BallljOint ........cccceenees

Multi-purpose

grease

LM Grease

Front and rear hubs ...

Multi-purpose

grease

LM Grease

10 Propeller shafts ...........

Multi-purpose

grease

LM Grease

&& N W a o

nnn

Ee

Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703

Castrol Girling Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

12 Cooling system...........

Antifreeze

Anti-freeze

13 Fuel tank ...........cceeeees

Petrol 91 to 93 RON

11

Brake and clutch hydraulic reservoirs ..

to BS3150

(UK 2-star)

Not applicable

d lubricant was hypoid gear oil SAE 80EP for “Note: The first hundred gearbox es were fitted with a limited slip differential and the recommende throughout

early model gearbox use engine oil (as above) the main gearbox and SAE 90EP fo the transfer box. Unless the vehicle is fitted with an

the gearbox.

Safety first! Professional motor mechanics are cedures. However enthusiastic you may job in hand, do take the time to ensure risk. A moment's lack of attention can

trained in safe working probe about getting on with the that your safety is not put at result in an accident, as can

failure to observe certain elementary precautions. There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following points do not pretend to be a comprehensive list of all dangers; they are intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DONTs DON’T rely on a single jack when working underneath the vehicle. Always use reliable additional means of support, such as axle stands, securely placed under a part of the vehicle that you know will not give

way. DON’T attempt to loosen or tighten high-torque nuts (e.g. wheel hub nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may be pulled off. DON’T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral (or ‘Park’ where applicable) and the parking brake applied. DON’T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system — cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON’T grasp any part of the engine, exhaust or catalytic converter without first ascertaining that it is sufficiently cool to avoid burning

you. DON’T syphon toxic liquids such as fuel, brake fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin.

DON'T DON’T straight DON'T injury. DON'T

inhale brake lining dust — it is injurious to health. allow any spilt oil or grease to remain on the floor— wipe it up away, before someone slips on it. use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause

attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance. DON'T rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

DON'T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc, and when working under the vehicle. DO use a barrier cream on your hands. prior to undertaking dirty jobs — it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, tie etc) and long hair well out of the way

of moving mechanical parts. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO keep your work area tidy — it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get specialist advice. IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Fire

Remember at all times that petrol (gasoline) is highly flammable.

Never smoke, or have any kind of naked flame around, when working

on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there — a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or

even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on any part of the fuel system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol (gasoline) vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers — they may give off poisonous vapours. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour petrol, and never run the engine, while the vehicle is standing over it; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light, near the vehicle’s battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up and when carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the

acid slowly to the water, and never the other way round. against splashes by wearing rubber gloves and goggles.

Protect

Mains electricity When using an electric power tool, inspection light ete which works from the mains, always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly earthed (grounded). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour.

Ignition HT voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT leads, when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

is fitted, the HT

Routine The

maintenance

those recommended

maintenance schedules

listed in this Section are based on

by the makers and apply to a Range Rover that

is being used in the conventional manner, ie, normal roadwork, trailer towing and light cross-country duties.

If the vehicle is used in rough terrain and is constantly working in mud and dust, the oil should be changed more frequently and the air cleaner should be checked more frequently than would be usual. In exceptionally harsh conditions or if the vehicle is used for deep wading, the engine oil should also be checked daily, as should the gearbox and transfer box oils. The gearbox, transfer box, differential and swivel pin oils should also be changed more frequently if the vehicle is being used in the conditions described in the previous paragraph. In particular the propeller shaft sliding joints should be lubricated frequently if driving through sand. The main gearbox and transfer box oils should be changed at least monthly under deep wading conditions.

When

the vehicle is being used for very muddy work or where any

form of wading is involved the flywheel housing can be completely sealed by means of a plug, which is located in the bellhousing flange during normal use (photo). This plug must be removed after the job has been completed and before roadwork is resumed. If constant wading is being undertaken, or if severe conditions prevail, then the plug must be removed periodically to, allow any accumulated oil to drain out, before it is refitted.

i

Every 250 miles (400 km), weekly, or before a long journey ee i i a Check the engine oil level and top up if necessary (photos) Check the brake fluid level and top up if necessary (photo) Check the battery electrolyte level and top up if necessary (photo)

Typical dipstick markings. Oil level should be kept up to mark

Flywheel housing plug (arrowed) can be screwed into hole at right to prevent entry of

water or mud $n

4 ~S

rp

rin srr samara at *

eaiaded

or 2

Topping up the engine oil

oYfo

Brake fluid reservoir must be k ept full

Topping up the battery

Swivel pin filler plug (arrowed, top) and

level plug (arrowed, bottom)

titanate

ea

ie Fi

/

Main gearbox oil dipstick. Some models have level plug instead

“q

s

Main gearbox oil filler hole

Piet

ES:

KS

Propeller shaft lubrication point. Further grease nipples are fitted to the universal joints

Routine

maintenance

15

rnrnnnnnnn eee

Check

the

coolant

level

in the

expansion

tank

and

top

Check the propeller shaft flange coupling bolts and nuts for tightness Lubricate the propellor shaft internal joints Check and top up the rear axle differential oil as necessary (photo)

up if

necessary Check the tyre pressures including the spare Check and top up the windscreen and tailgate washer reservoirs (photo) Check the horn operation Check the washer and wiper operation Check that all the lights work correctly

a

Exterior Check the front wheel alignment and adjust as necessary

Lubricate all locks and hinges (except the steering lock)

/nterior Check the oil level in the main gearbox and top up as necessary

Every 3000 miles (5000 km) or 3 months, whichever occurs first

(photos) Check that all the doors open and close correctly (including the

In addition to the weekly checks

tailgate)

Engine compartment Check Check Check Check Check Check

for the the the and the

oil, fuel or coolant leaks heater and coolant hoses for condition brake servo hose for condition and tightness clutch fluid reservoir (photo) and top up as necessary adjust the fan-belt tension power steering fluid reservoir (where fitted) and top up

as necessary Check the power steering system (where fitted) for leaks

Check that the bonnet lock operates correctly Check that all the windows work correctly Lubricate the accelerator pedal pivot

Every 12000

In addition

Check for any oil leaks Check the condition of steering joints and gaiters Check the shock absorbers for fluid leaks Check the self-levelling unit for fluid leaks Check the brake and clutch hydraulic pipes for leaks and corrosion Check the fuel pipes for chafing and leaks Check the exhaust system for tightness and leaks Remove flywheel housing drain plug if in use, and allow to drain

headlamp alignment wiper blades and renew if necessary condition and wear of the brake pads condition of the brake discs tyres for tread depth, cuts, lumps or bulges (don’t forget tightness of the roadwheel

nuts

Renew Renew Check Clean Renew Renew Check

the spark plugs the distributor contact breaker points the condition of the HT leads the alternator moulded cover and slip ring end bracket the main fuel filter element and in-line filter (if fitted) the engine flame traps the air intake flap valve for correct operation (where fitted

— later models) Renew the air cleaner elements Renew the engine breather filter on rear of crankcase Check the manual steering box and top up as necessary

Under the vehicle Check all the suspension mountings for security

Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or 18 months, whichever occurs first

/nterior the the the the the the

mile

Engine compartment

Exterior

Check Check Check Check Check Check

to the servicing operations listed under the 3000

(5000 km) and 6000 mile (10 000 km) headings

Under the vehicle

Check the Check the Check the Check the Check the the spare) Check the

miles (20 000 km) or every 12 months, whichever

occurs first

steering wheel for play footbrake for correct operation handbrake operation and adjust as necessary correct functioning of all electrical equipment safety belts for condition and the mountings for security rear view mirrors for condition

In addition to the items listed previously Renew the hydraulic fluid in the braking system

Every 24000

miles (40 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs

first EEE

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first es In addition

to the servicing

operations listed under the 3000

mile

(5000 km) heading

Engine compartment Clean and adjust the spark plugs

Lubricate the distributor Clean and adjust the ignition contact breaker points Check the ignition timing and reset if necessary Check the condition of the crankcase breathing hoses Lubricate the accelerator linkage and check its operation Top up the carburettor piston dampers (photo)

Clean the battery terminals and smear them with petroleum jelly

Under the vehicle

In addition to those items listed previously Renew the main gearbox oil Renew the transfer box oil Renew the front axle oil Renew the front axle swivel pin housings oil Renew the rear axle oil Renew power steering reservoir filter (if applicable) Lubricate the propeller shaft sealed sliding joint (photo)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 36 months, whichever occurs ==

In addition to those items listed previously Renew all the rubber seals in the braking system Drain, flush and refill the cooling system

Drain the engine oil when hot (photo) and refill with fresh oil Renew the oil filter Lubricate the handbrake linkage Check and top up the transfer box oil as necessary (photo) Check and top up the-front axle differential oil as necessary Check and top up the front axle swivel pin housings with oil as

necessary (photo)

Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km) or 4 years, whichever occurs first In addition to all the items listed previously Renew all the cooling and heater hoses Clean the filter in the electric fuel pump (later models)

Fault diagnosis ee

[Introduction The car owner who does his or her own maintenance according to the recommended schedules should not have to use this section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried in the car. With any fault finding, the first step is to decide where to begin investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions a little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in curing a fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the wiser if the fault recurs and he may well have spent more time and money than was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period preceding the fault — power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual noises or smells, etc — and remember that failure of components such as fuses or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault. The pages which follow here are intended to help in cases of failure to start or breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault Diagnosis Section at the end of each Chapter which should be consulted if the preliminary checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault, certain basic principles apply. These are as follows: Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly

important if you are investigating a fault for someone not have described it very accurately.

else who may

Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the car won't start, is there petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the

test gear. Cure the disease, not the symptom.

Substituting a flat battery

with a fully charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn’t simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected. Don't take anything for granted. Particularly, don't forget that a ‘new’ component may itself be defective (especially if it's been rattling round in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you'll probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.

Electrical faults Electrical faults can be more puzzling than straightforward mechanical failures, but they are no less susceptible to logical analysis if the basic principles of operation are understood. Car electrical wiring exists in extremely unfavourable conditions — heat, vibration and chemical attack — and the first things to look for are loose or corroded connections and broken or chafed wires, especially where the wires

Carrying a few spares can save a long walk

17

Fault diagnosis

ee

eee

pass through holes in the bodywork or are subject to vibration. All metal-bodied cars in current production have one pole of the battery ‘earthed’, ie connected to the car bodywork, and in nearly all

ee 6

modern

Engine fails to turn when starter operated

cars

it is the negative

(—) terminal.

The

various

Engine will not start

electrical

components’ motors, bulb holders etc — are also connected to earth, either by means of a lead or directly by their mountings. Electric current flows through the component and then back to the battery via the car bodywork. If the component mounting is loose or corroded, or if a good path back to the battery is not available, the circuit will be incomplete and malfunction will result. The engine and/or gearbox are also earthed by means of flexible metal straps to the body or subframe; if these straps are loose or missing, starter motor, generator and ignition trouble may result. Assuming the earth return to be satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either to component malfunction or to defects in the current supply. Individual components are dealt with in Chapter 10. If supply wires are broken or cracked internally this results in an open-circuit, and the easiest way

Flat battery (recharge, use jump leads, or starting handle) Battery terminals loose or corroded Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose or broken Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or broken

Ignition/starter switch faulty Major

failure

(seizure)

or long disuse

(piston

rings

Starter motor turns engine slowly Partially discharged battery (recharge, use jump leads, or starting handle)

to check for this is to bypass the suspect wire

at each end. Alternatively,

mechanical

rusted to bores) Starter or solenoid internal fault (see Chapter 10)

temporarily with a length of wire having a crocodile clip or suitable connector

—————eee—ee

a

a 12V test lamp can be used to

verify the presence of supply voltage at various points along the wire and the break can be thus isolated. If a bare portion of a live wire touches the car bodywork or other earthed metal part, the electricity will take the low-resistance path thus formed back to the battery: this is known as a short-circuit. Hopefully a short-circuit will blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause burning of the insulation (and possibly further short-circuits) or even a fire. This is why it is inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing fuses with silver foil or wire.

Battery Battery Engine Starter Starter

terminals loose or corroded earth to body defective earth strap loose motor (or solenoid) wiring loose motor internal fault (see Chapter

10)

Spares and tool kit Most cars are only supplied with sufficient tools for wheel changing; the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit detailed in Tools and working facilities, with the addition sufficient for those repairs that most

of a hammer, is probably motorists would consider

attempting at the roadside. In addition a few items which can be fitted

without too much trouble in the event of a breakdown should be carried. Experience and available space will modify the list below, but the following may save having to call on professional assistance: Spark plugs, clean and correctly gapped HT lead and plug cap — long enough to reach the plug furthest from the distributor Distributor rotor, condenser and contact breaker points Drivebelt — emergency type may suffice Spare fuses Set of principal light bulbs Tin of radiator sealer and hose bandage Exhaust bandage

A simple test lamp is useful for diagnosing electrical faults

Roll of insulating tape Length of soft iron wire Length of electrical flex Torch or inspection lamp (can double as test lamp) Battery jump leads Tow-rope

Ignition waterproofing aerosol Litre of engine oil Sealed can of hydraulic fluid Emergency windscreen Worm drive hose clips Tube of filler paste Tyre valve core

be used If spare fuel is carried, a can designed for the purpose should kit and a to minimise risks of leakage and collision damage. A first aid the UK, are warning triangle, whilst not at present compulsory in above. the to addition in carry to items sensible obviously additional When touring abroad it may be advisable to carry save having spares which, even if you cannot fit them yourself, could may be worth to wait while parts are obtained. The items below

considering: H.tosy|

Throttle cable

Cylinder head gasket Alternator brushes

advise One of the motoring organisations will be able to . countries foreign in etc fuel of ity availabil

on

Correct way to connect jump leads. Do not allow car bodies to touch!

18

Fault diagnosis

Starter motor spins without turning engine Flywheel gear teeth damaged or worn Starter motor mounting bolts loose

Engine turns normally but fails to start Damp

or dirty HT leads and distributor

cap (crank engine and

check for spark) Dirty or incorrectly gapped contact breaker points No fuel in tank (check for delivery at carburettor)

Excessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient choke (cold engine) Fouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (remove, regap) Other ignition system fault (see Chapter 4) Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3) Poor compression (see Chapter 1) Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

clean

and

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Engine fires but will not run Insufficient choke (cold engine) Air leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold Fuel starvation (see Chapter 3) Ballast resistor defective, or other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Engine cuts out and will not restart

Engine cuts out suddenly — ignition fault Loose or disconnected LT wires Wet HT leads or distributor cap (after transversing water splash)

Coil or condenser failure (check for spark) Other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Engine misfires before cutting out — fuel fault Fuel tank empty Fuel pump defective or filter blocked (check for delivery) Fuel tank filler vent blocked (suction will be evident on releasing

cap) Carburettor needle valve sticking Carburettor jets blocked (fuel contaminated) Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

Engine cuts out — other causes Serious overheating Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive) H.teAL3

Remove main fuel pipe and check for fuel delivery Engine overheats

Ignition (no-charge) warning light illuminated

Mechanical fuel pump — disable ignition and crank engine Electric fuel pump — switch on ignition briefly

Slack or broken drivebelt (photo) — retension or renew (Chapter 2)

Ignition warning light not illuminated Coolant loss due to internal or external leakage (see Chapter 2) Thermostat defective Low oil level Brakes binding Radiator clogged externally or internally Engine waterways clogged

Ignition timing incorrect or automatic advance malfunctioning Mixture too weak Note: Do not add cold water to an overheated engine or damage may result

Low engine oil pressure

Gauge reads low or warning light illuminated with engine running Oil level low or incorrect grade Defective gauge or sender unit Wire to sender unit earthed

A slack drivebelt can cause overheating and battery charging problems

Fault diagnosis Ea Leaking vacuum

Oil pick-up strainer clogged

Blowing head gasket

Oil pump worn or mountings loose Worn main or big-end bearings oil pressure

in a high-mileage

Tapping or rattling engine

at tickover is not

necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender before condemning the engine.

a SE acceleration

Incorrect grade of fuel Ignition timing incorrect Distributor faulty or worn Worn or maladjusted carburettor Excessive carbon build-up in engine

Incorrect valve clearances

Worn valve gear Worn timing chain Broken piston ring (ticking noise)

Knocking or thumping

Engine noises

Pre-ignition (pinking) on

hose

Leaking carburettor or manifold gasket

Oil pressure relief valve defective

Low

19

Whistling or wheezing noises

Engine overheating Oil filter clogged or bypass valve defective

Note:

ee

TE

CE

TE

Unintentional mechanical contact (eg fan blades) Worn fanbelt Peripheral component fault (generator, water pump etc) Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under load) Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening under load) Piston slap (most noticeable when cold)

Chapter 1 Engine Contents Ancillary components — refitting (engine Out Of CAF) «eens

47

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Index A

Cc

Air cleaners — 60 Air filter elements renewal — 61 Air intake temperature control system description — 62 flap valve — 63 operational check — 62 temperature sensor — 63

Camshaft inspection — 34 refitting — 44 removal — 31 Capacities — 6 Carburettors description — 64 overhaul — 69 removal and refitting — 65 specifications — 58 tuning and adjusting — 66 Choke cable Clutch bleeding the hydraulic system — 92 description — 89 fault diagnosis — 94 maintenance — 89 master cylinder overhaul — 90 removal and refitting — 89 pedal — 92 release mechanism — 93 removal and refitting — 92

Alternator

brush renewal — 152 description — 150 drivebelt adjustment — 151 maintenance — 150 precautions — 150 removal and refitting — 151 testing /n situ — 150 Automatic

choke — 70

Battery charging — 150 electrolyte replenishment — 150 maintenance — 149

removal and refitting — 148 split charging facility — 175 Big-end bearing clearances — 37 Bodywork console — 214 description — 207 facia panel, top — 215 floor panel — 214

glass, side — 214 glovebox — 215 hinges — 209 locks — 209 maintenance — 207, 209 repair

major damage — 208 minor damage — 207 seats, front — 214 wing front — 209 rear — 209 Bonnet — 209 Braking system bleeding the hydraulic system — 135 caliper overhaul — 138

removai and refitting — 137 description — 134 disc — 139 failure warning valve and switch — 139 fault diagnosis — 146 master cylinder — 140 pads — 136 pedal — 142

pipes and hoses — 142 servo unit filter renewal — 141 general — 140 removal and refitting — 141 specifications — 134

torque wrench settings — 134 transmission brake (handbrake) adjustment — 145 lever and linkage — 142 overhaul — 143

slave cylinder — 91

specifications — 89 Condenser — 81 Connecting rods overhaul — 36 refitting — 42 removal — 31 Contact breaker points adjustment — 81 cleaning — 82 removal and refitting — 82 Conversion factors — 220 Cooling system description — 52 draining — 52 fan — 53

fan/alternator drivebelt — 54 fault diagnosis — 57 filling — 53 flushing — 53 specifications — 52 torque wrench settings — 52 Crankcase breather valve — 63 inspection — 38 Crankshaft inspection — 37 refitting — 40 removal — 31 spigot bearing renewal — 40 Cylinder block inspection — 38 Cylinder heads overhaul — 34 reassembly and refitting — 46 removal — 28

D Dimensions, general — 6 Distributor lubrication — 86 overhaul — 84 removal and refitting — 82 Door glass — 211

223

Index

ee stub axle — 127 torque wrench settings — 124 wheels hubs and bearings — 126

glass regulator — 213 lock unit — 213 quarter vent — 213 rattles — 209 removal and refitting — 209

E Electrical system

description — 148 fault diagnosis — 16, 179 specifications — 147 torque wrench settings — 148 wiring diagrams — 180 to 187 Emission control systems description — 59, 75 fault diagnosis — 79 maintenance — 77 repair — 77 Engine ancillary components refitting — 49 removal — 27 components examination for wear — 32 description — 23 dismantling — 26 fault diagnosis — 17, 51 operations possible with engine in car — 23 operations requiring engine removal — 24 reassembly — 40 refitting — 49 removal — 24 specifications — 20 start-up after overhaul — 50

torque wrench settings — 22 Exhaust system description — 59 renewal — 75

Fuel filter

in-line — 73 main — 73 Fuel pump electric — 73 mechanical — 71 Fuel system description — 59 fault diagnosis — 79 specifications — 58

Fuel tank and gauge unit — 73 Fuses — 162

G Gearboxes

see Transmission

H Headlamps beam alignment — 157

removal and refitting — 156 Headlamp washer — 174 Headlamp wiper arm and blade — 172 motor and drive rack removal and refitting — 171 motor overhaul — 172 Heater controls — 215 fan motor — 216 fan motor resistance — 218 radiator — 216 removal and refitting — 215 Horns — 169

F

Fault diagnosis braking system — 146 clutch — 94 cooling system — 57 electrical system — 16, 179 emission control systems — 79 engine — 17, 51 front axle — 133 fuel system — 79

ignition system — 88 introduction — 16 propeller shafts — 123 rear axle — 133 steering — 206 suspension — 206 transmission — 118 Flame traps — 63 Flasher units — 161 Flywheel refacing — 39 removal and refitting — 31 Front axle

casing oil seals — 129 description — 124

differential — 130

differential pinion oil seal renewal — 128 fault diagnosis — 133 128 halfshafts and constant velocity points — 132 — ng checki level and ng oil changi removal.and refitting — 131 specifications — 124 129 steering swivel and housing overhaul — level checking — 131 steering swivel pin housing oil changing and

Ignition system description — 80 fault diagnosis — 88 specifications — 80 timing checking and adjustment — 86 data — 80 Instrument panel housing — 166 Instruments

removal and refitting — 167 voltage stabiliser — 166

J Jacking — 10

L Lamps bulb renewal — 158, 159, 160

removal and refitting — 156, 158, 159, 160

Lubricants, recommended Lubrication chart — 11

M Main bearings clearances — 37

refitting — 40 Maintenance, routine — 13

— 11

224

Index fault diagnosis — 206

Manifolds

exhaust removal and refitting — 74

front wheel alignment — 205

inlet

lock stop — 205 power steering system box backlash adjustment — 201 box overhaul — 199 box removal and refitting — 198 filling and bleeding — 204 pump drivebelt — 204

refitting — 48 removal — 27

0

pump removal and refitting — 202 pump servicing — 203

Oil filter — 31 Oil pump overhaul — 38 removal and refitting — 32

#

Piston rings fitting — 36 Pistons overhaul — 36 refitting — 42 removal — 31 Propeller shafts description — 119 fault diagnosis — 123 removal and refitting — 120 sliding sleeves lubrication — 123 specifications — 119 universal joints dismantling — 121 reassembly — 121 repair — 120

Pushrods

inspection — 34

R Radio fitting — 175 suppression of interference — 176 Radiator — 53 Rear axle description — 124 differential — 125 differential pinion oil seal renewal — 128 fault diagnosis — 133 halfshaft — 125 oil changing and level checking — 132 removal and refitting — 125 specifications — 124 stub axle — 127 torque wrench settings — 124 wheel hubs and bearings — 126 Relays — 161

Rocker shaft overhaul — 32 Routine maintenance — 13

Ss Safety — 12 Spare parts buying — 7 to carry incar—17

.-

Spark plugs and HT leads — 87 Speedometer cable — 168 Starter motor — 153 Starter ring gear renewal — 40 Steering box (manual) adjustment — 198 overhaul — 196 removal and refitting — 195 column — 202 description — 189 drag link — 195 drop arm — 195

reservoir filter element renewal — 204 special precautions — 198 specifications — 188 torque wrench settings — 189 track rod and damper — 194 track rod and drag link balljoints — 194 ‘heel — 200 Sump aaah. 36 refitting — 46 removal — 31 Suspension bump stop — 191 description — 189 fault diagnosis = 206 front coil spring — 190 radius arm — 189 shock absorber — 190 Panhard rod — 189

rear coil springs — 192 radius arm — 192 shock absorber — 191 self-levelling unit balljoints — 193 removal and refitting — 192 specifications — 188 torque wrench settings — 189 upper A-frame and pivot — 193 Switches — 162, 164

T Tailgate

glass — 214 lower — 211 upper — 210, 211 Tailgate washer — 174 Tailgate wiper arms and blades — 169 motor and drive removal and refitting — 171 motor overhaul — 172 Tape players — 176 Tappets inspection — 34 Thermostat — 55 Throttle cable — 63 Timing cover, chain and gears

refitting — 45 removal — 28 Timing cover oil seal renewal — 35 Timing

gears and chain inspection — 36

Tools general — 8 to carry in car — 8 Towing — 6, 10 Transmission description — 96 dismantling — 99 fault diagnosis — 118 front cover and oil pump — 109

gearbox (main)

:

components inspection — 102 dismantling — 99

_

Index

EEE

reassembly — 102 gearbox selector mechanism — 109 refitting — 96 removal — 96 reversing light switch — 117 shaft oil seals — 113 specifications — 95 ; speedometer drive housing — 111 torque wrench settings — 96 transfer gearbox differential lock actuator — 115 differential lock actuator switch — 117 differential unit — 117

dismantling and repairs — 113 front output shaft and housing — 117 gear lever and cross-shaft — 114 gear selectors and shaft — 114 intermediate gears — 13 Tyres

general — 205 pressures — 189 specifications — 188

V Valve gear refitting — 47 removal — 28 Valves grinding-in — 35 removal — 28 Vehicle identification numbers — 7

Ww Water pump — 54 Weights, general — 6 Wheels general — 205 specifications — 188 Windscreen — 213 Windscreen washer — 174 Windscreen wiper arms and blades — 169 motor and drive removal and refitting — 169 motor overhaul — 170 Wiring diagrams — 180 to 187 Working facilities — 9

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