Hard to house train: practical solutions for dog trainers 9781617812262, 1617812269

Table of contents :
Tabl e of Cont ent s......Page 4
Int roduc t ion......Page 6
1 Using the “Go-To” Method for House Training......Page 12
2 Using Crates for House Training......Page 28
3 Underlying Causes of House Training Problems......Page 52
4 House Training Regression in Dogs......Page 75
5 Fear-Based House Training Issues......Page 87
6 Submissive Peeing Issues......Page 115
7 Excitement/Greeting Peeing......Page 149
8 Solving Male Marking Issues......Page 167
9 The Special Challenges of Small Dogs......Page 199
10 Coprophagia and Pica Problems......Page 212
Conc luding Thought s......Page 221
Appendi x : Is It a Medical Issue?......Page 222
Recommended Reading......Page 225
About the Author......Page 226
Index......Page 227

Citation preview

Dogs/Training

$19.95

Some owners can house train their dogs without having to call on an expert. But when people experience difficulty with house training, it can lead to a variety of very serious consequences for the dog and frustration for the owner. While most trainers can offer standard house training advice for puppies, dealing with on-going problems with older dogs—fear based peeing, male marking, soiled crates—may be beyond the scope of what a dog trainer is equipped to handle. Hard to House Train by Peggy Swager is designed to be the go-to reference guide for trainers who encounter difficult house training cases. With in-depth information on proven techniques as well as how to deal with the underlying behavioral problems (both dog and human!) which underlie them, this book should be part of your reference library.

What experts are saying about Hard to House Train Literally the only book a dog trainer will need when working with their client’s dogs on house training issues. Robin Bennett, CPDT-KA. Author of All About Dog Daycare. A Blueprint for Success, 2nd Edition

This book deserves a place on every dog trainer’s bookshelf and serves as a great reference for solving the tougher house training problems. Thomas Aaron, CPDT-KA. Founder: Positive Gun Dog Association Organized in an easy to read and reference format with multiple solutions and case studies for each concern, making it a must have book for any dog trainer’s library. Megan Stanley, CPDT-KSA, CBCC-KA. Chair of the APDT Board of Directors

Peggy Swager is an animal behavioral specialist and professional dog trainer with over 20 years of experience. She has written several books and articles on dog behavior problems included fear, separation anxiety and house training. Peggy lives in Monument, Colorado, and can be reached at peggyswager.com. ISBN 978-1-61781-226-2

www.dogwise.com 1-800-776-2665

9 781617 812262

51995

Peggy O. Swager

A comprehensive reference with a ton of great information about various house training challenges. Michelle Douglas, CPDT-KA, CDBC. Past President of the Association of Professional Dog Trainers.

HARD TO HOUSE TRAIN

Expert Help for Difficult House Training Problems

Peggy O. Swager

HARD to HOUSE TRAIN Practical Solutions for Dog Trainers

H a r d t o H o u s e Tr a i n Practical Solutions for D o g Tr a i n e r s

Peggy O. Swager

Wenatchee, Washington U.S.A.

Hard to House Train Practical Solutions for Dog Trainers Peggy O. Swager Dogwise Publishing A Division of Direct Book Service, Inc. 403 South Mission Street, Wenatchee, Washington 98801 1-509-663-9115, 1-800-776-2665 www.dogwisepublishing.com / [email protected] © 2018 Peggy O. Swager Photos & graphics: Peggy O. Swager Graphic design: Lindsay Peternell Cover design: Jesus Cordero All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, digital or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system without permission in writing from the publisher. Limits of Liability and Disclaimer of Warranty: The author and publisher shall not be liable in the event of incidental or consequential damages in connection with, or arising out of, the furnishing, performance, or use of the instructions and suggestions contained in this book. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Swager, Peggy O., author. Title: Hard to house train : practical solutions for dog trainers / Peggy O. Swager. Description: Wenatchee, Washington : Dogwise Publishing, [2018] | Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers: LCCN 2018034130 | ISBN 9781617812262 (alk. paper) Subjects: LCSH: Dogs--Training. Classification: LCC SF431 .S928 2018 | DDC 636.7/0835--dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018034130 ISBN: 978-1-61781-226-2 Printed in the U.S.A.

Ta b l e o f C o n t e n t s Introduction................................................................... 1 1. Using the “Go-To” Method for House Training......... 7 2. Using Crates for House Training.............................. 23 3. Underlying Causes of House Training Problems....... 47 4. House Training Regression in Dogs.......................... 70 5. Fear-Based House Training Issues............................. 82 6. Submissive Peeing Issues......................................... 110 7. Excitement/Greeting Peeing................................... 144 8. Solving Male Marking Issues.................................. 162 9. The Special Challenges of Small Dogs.................... 194 10. Coprophagia and Pica Problems........................... 207 Concluding Thoughts................................................ 216 Appendix: Is It a Medical Issue?.................................. 217 Recommended Reading.............................................. 220 About the Author....................................................... 221 Index.......................................................................... 222

Introduction

One thing I’ve noticed about house training is that you don’t find many people who just can’t wait to house train their dog. You do meet people who want this task done as quickly and easily as possible. Often, if a dog owner is calling a dog trainer for help, the issue is challenging or complex. Some of the problems have either defied regular techniques, or they have a psychological driving factor or an owner/dog relationship issue that needs to be addressed in order to secure success. The goal of this book is to help dog trainers learn how to get to the heart of the problem that is preventing success with house training cases. I often provide more than one approach to solving an issue. When part of the problem is the dog and owner relationship, I’ve offered information on how to approach mending the rift between the two. When it comes to solving even the most difficult house training issues, nowhere will you find in this book a harsh or stern approach. Adversity in training, which results from harsh techniques, can create new issues. The best training results come from a solid understanding of the issue. As well, the dog trainer may need more than one technique to try. There are, of course, times when part of the solution includes medical intervention. I’ve included guidelines

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to help determine if there is a medical issue, as well as the best kind of medical help to seek. To enable dog trainers to better understand how techniques are best implemented, and how solutions come about, I’ve scattered case studies throughout the book. It is my goal with this book to help trainers find the techniques they need to solve even the most difficult house training issues.

Training using positive techniques is key.

Why do so many dogs have house training problems? Over the past couple decades, more and more people are acquiring puppies and older dogs from shelters and rescue organizations. There has been a decline in the percentage of dogs being acquired from reputable breeders who strive to house train (usually, but not always, successfully) the dogs they sell. The result is that the house training history of the dogs being acquired is often sketchy. One of the reasons I wrote this book is that the need for expertise on the part of trainers is being driven by an expansion in the market in dogs and owners who need help! Rescue organizations have unintentionally become suppliers of dogs with house training challenges. There are several reasons for this. One

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introduction

is some dogs are surrendered to a rescue because the previous home failed to house train the dog. New adopters maybe more determined to find success, but not know how to solve the problem, and therefore will need professional help. There is a wide gamut of rescue dogs with house training issues. Male dogs with marking issues often end up surrendered by owners who get tired of urine in the house. It isn’t unusual for a rescue dog to become stressed during the rescue process, creating a house training issue that didn’t exist before. That stress doesn’t always vanish when the dog enters a new home. In the meantime, the dog who is feeling stress can end up having accidents in the house. Educating dog owners about how to acclimate a dog into a home in a way that helps with the dog’s house training can be key.

Otis and Albert were two mill dog rescues you will hear more about. “Mill dog” is a term I use for dogs who are commercially raised in a large-scale breeding operation, also known as a puppy mill. (Note: There are also smaller-scale breeders who are unscrupulous in their raising of puppies, resulting in dogs with similar issues.) These dogs can have more unique house training challenges because they typically live in unsanitary conditions, have no experience living in a home environment, and suffer from poor medical care. Many have never had an opportunity to eliminate anywhere other than in a cage. Mill dogs are kept for the sole purpose of mass producing puppies for sale to the general public. At one time, when these dogs could no longer have litters, they were destroyed. In more recent years, rescues 3

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have stepped in to salvage the dogs and re-home them. According to the National Mill Dog Rescue, the average age of these overused breeding dogs is 7 years, although younger dogs are sometimes surrendered. Although some rescued mill dog are put into foster homes to acclimate the dog to life outside of cages, others are adopted as mature dogs who have never lived in a regular home, and never had any kind of house training. Even organizations that strive to do some house training in their facilities are limited by the lack of a homelike environment to acclimate these dogs to. Many dog owners who have a record of success house training other dogs may not succeed at house training a mill dog. When working with mill dogs, the dog trainer needs to have a diverse toolbox of techniques for house training, and often needs to learn how to reduce fear in the dog to allow the dog to find success.

Some of your clients will need help with more difficult-to-train puppies. Not all house training issues come from rescues. Some dog owners just never seem to get their puppy correctly trained, leaving them with a dog who still has accidents in the house. The dog trainer is often the last hope a dog has of remaining in the home. With other dogs acquired as a puppy, the dog owner may be a step away from success, only to have the dog regress. Dog trainers need to learn the

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common issues that drive house training regression, as well as how to reverse the regression. There are some behaviors seen by dog owners as house training issues that do not quite fit this category. Trainers may be called in for pica and coprophagia because dog owners associate the issues with elimination. For that reason, I’ve included information on how to approach a resolution for both pica and coprophagia in this book. Some dog trainers are called in to resolve issues with submissive peeing and greeting or excitement peeing. These are not issues with the dog failing to understand house training rules, but are relationship issues. When working with relationship issues, the dog trainer often needs to work equally hard educating and retraining the owner before the dog can overcome this problem.

How this book is organized This book is organized into three major sections: 1. A review of the two most widely accepted methods of house training, including what I term the “go-to method” and, secondly, crate training. 2. An overview of the underlying causes of house training problems. This includes (1) the kinds of dogs who frequently enter new homes not fully house trained or who may regress over time, and (2) the environmental, behavioral and physical/medical conditions that can lead to house training problems. 3. Strategies and training techniques to solve these difficult house training problems including: • Working with dogs who have regressed in their training • Fear-based house training issues • Submissive urination • Excitement/greeting urination

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• Male marking • Challenges of small dogs • Coprophagia and pica problems I have also included an appendix to help you determine if the source of the problem is medical in nature.

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1 Using the “Go-To” Method for House Training

At the end of a talk I gave for AKC Responsible Dog Ownership Days, an elderly woman marched up to the front of the room to ask a specific question about an issue she had with her dog. Patches, a miniature schnauzer, had failed to be house trained and was almost a year old. I asked her what technique she used to which she answered, “The normal technique.” I then asked her if that included shoving the dog’s nose into any messes in the house and putting the dog outside. She said, “Of course.” Patches needed the right kind of training techniques.

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I explained that although people have had some success with that kind of an approach in the past, we now have better ways of house training a dog. I then told her about a house training procedure that in this book I refer to as my “go-to method.” Although there is no one technique that will work for house training all dogs, this has become my first approach when working with clients, especially those who have never secured success with their dog’s house training. In this chapter, you will find my go-to method discussed in detail. This technique will be referred to throughout the book. Since this chapter’s goal is to offer techniques to secure initial house training, the go-to method is not the only one offered. A case study will provide another option for succeeding with dog owners who have more persistent difficulties during the initial house training attempts. There are much better solutions than punishment-based house training.

Overview of the go-to technique In its essence, the go-to method is simple. However, there are some parts of the process that need attention or may need to be modified for specific dogs. For that reason, I am including a brief outline of the technique here followed by specific details of its various components. Attach a leash to the dog. Take the dog outside at a time the dog is likely to eliminate. Go to a place far away from the door, such as

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the back fence of the yard. Or, if you plan on training the dog to a specific area, go to that location. Walk the dog in the area where you want him to relieve himself. It is better to walk in a smaller area, repeating your pattern, than to walk over a larger area. Dogs often like to sniff and explore. If you walk a large area, this can add to the time it takes for the dog to get down to business. At the beginning of the training, allow time to walk the dog for at least half an hour. When the dog eliminates, reward the dog with a high-value treat and some praise for each kind of elimination. Be aware that dogs often go pee and poop within a short period of time, but may need as much as 15 minutes in between. It is a good idea to bring two treats and to be patient. Expect to complete this process for several days or even a week until the dog becomes efficient at eliminating right away when you go outside. Once the dog begins to eliminate right away when let outside, you can transition to having the dog cue you inside the house, and then let the dog outside to do his or her business without your company.

Go-to technique summary for clients: • Take the dog out at appropriate times when success is likely. • Realize dogs new to the household and puppies will need to go out more frequently at first. • Walk the dog, expecting at least half an hour at first. If the dog doesn’t have success, repeat the walk in half an hour to an hour. Keep an eye on the dog while in the house or crate. • For some dogs, limiting the outside walking area, at least at first, is more likely to encourage the dog to “get down to business” as opposed to becoming distracted. • Reward the dog for success. Make sure you don’t interrupt the dog while the dog is doing his business. • After the dog begins to do his business fairly readily when outside it is time to transition into a more normal schedule. For some that means the dog goes outside first thing in the

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morning, after an owner comes home from work or in the late afternoon, and just before going to bed at night a minimum. • Begin to add cue words before the dog is taken outside. The owner may say something like “time to go out.” • The dog can be encouraged to ask to go outside at appropriate times using the cue word. When the dog responds by going to the appropriate door, let the dog out by himself. • Watch to make sure the dog has success. • Reward the dog. • After a successful pattern is established, the owner can fade the reward. • With owners who are not picking up on cues from the dog to go outside, consider having them use a door bell and training the dog to ring the bell to go out.

Take the dog out at appropriate times and walk in a limited area.

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Don’t interrupt while the dog is doing her business.

Reward success immediately afterwards.

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When to take the dog outside Selecting times when the dog is more likely to eliminate makes training the dog go much more quickly. Explain to the dog owner that good times to take the dog outside include first thing in the morning and last thing before going to bed. In addition, some dogs will eliminate more readily after a meal. It also makes sense to take the dog out after a long period of rest or confinement, or when there is an unusual amount of excitement in the house. With newly adopted dogs, there is often value in following the times and suggestions made for younger dogs, which you can find below. The extra outings are helpful because dogs newer to the household may feel more stressed for the first few weeks, and stress can increase the frequency of elimination. There is an added advantage to planning a walk a few times during the day in hopes of having the dog eliminate so he can be rewarded for the correct behavior. The walking process helps a dog who is feeling uncertain in a new home to not only relax more, but also to bond more with the new owner.

Elimination schedules for younger dogs If your client has a younger dog, below are some guidelines to help with elimination schedules typically seen in younger dogs. One resource states that a puppy can control her bladder for about an hour for every month of age. For example, if your puppy is 2 months old, the puppy can hold urine for about two hours. However, these guidelines are general and don’t take into account the activity level of the puppy. Another factor is that some dogs will have better bladders than others, even within a specific breed. I knew one Jack Russell who could hold urine for long periods of time when very young, while I’ve seen other Jack Russells take up to almost a year to be able to hold urine for up to eight hours. A young dog likely will not need to defecate as often as he needs to urinate.

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Bladder challenges in some younger dogs

Some younger dogs will have bladder challenges, meaning that it’s hard for these dogs to hold urine for very long until they are over a year old. This more often plagues smaller breeds. Often, if the dog owner is dealing with this issue, you will need to encourage the owner to be patient. This is not something the dog has a lot of control over, and anger, punishment or scolding is counterproductive. If the dog owner has already used punishment for unwanted bladder eliminations, some of the information in later chapters on submissive peeing and greeting peeing can help resolve the issue. The dog owner may need to take note of how long the younger dog can engage in active play before the dog needs to stop and pee. If they notice a pattern, the dog owner can interrupt the play and take the dog outside. Often young dogs who are playing will suddenly stop and pee. By working to take the dog out before this kind of “accident,” the owner may help the dog to learn an association between the urge to go and the ability to signal the owner to ask to go outside. I once saw an experienced dog owner/trainer named Linda employ a technique that seemed to work very well. Linda’s terrier was actively playing when he suddenly stopped and began to pee. Linda quickly grabbed a treat and in a chirpy, bright voice called the dog to come. Using the treat, she lured the puppy outside. Two good things can be accomplished with this strategy. • The interruption of the flow may help the dog more quickly develop bladder control. • Luring the dog outside helps the dog associate having a sudden urge with a different action rather than simply peeing in place.

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For dog owners who want to try this technique, they should realize that it takes time to help improve the dog’s control. They also need to realize there is often still a little urine to clean up in the beginning of the training. However, patience and persistence will bring reward. Remember, some dogs will take up to a year to develop better control. As frustrating as it might be, it is also important to note that some dogs may not ever have very good bladder control.

Some young dogs will take up to a year to develop their bladder control. One of the reasons crates are often used with house training is that a crate helps to reduce activity in the dog. (For more on crate training see Chapter 2.) Reduced activity reduces the need to eliminate. Perhaps a better schedule to have the dog owner consider with a younger dog is to take the dog out right after the dog awakes in the morning, as soon as the dog gets up from a nap, right before bedtime, shortly

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after eating or drinking, and, for younger dogs, after they play for a short while or get excited. Dog owners may also want to take note of times the dog usually eliminates, even if those are in the house. If the dog tends to leave a mess between 10 and 11 AM, have the owner take the dog out shortly before that time.

Feed on a regular schedule To help a dog eliminate on a regular schedule, it works best to feed on a regular schedule. How many times a day a dog is fed can vary. Some people will want to feed twice a day, while others will only want the dog fed once a day. I recommend dog owners check with their veterinarian when working to find an ideal feeding schedule. However, I am quite willing to help a dog owner critique their feeding schedule and type of food and give suggestions for them to run by their veterinarian. There is a lot of information about canine nutrition to help you coach an owner. Although I won’t tell a dog owner what they should and should not feed, I do tell them my criteria for selecting my dog’s food. I also share information when appropriate, such as “Dog food like your brand has a lot of corn in it. Corn and some other ‘filler’ ingredients can increase the bulk in the dog’s eliminations, and the corn doesn’t have strong nutritional value.” With dogs who are not doing well with house training, I often find myself coaching the dog owner on feeding schedules. I explain that by feeding on a schedule, the dog will more readily be able to eliminate on a schedule. That helps the dog owner to predict when it’s time to take the dog outside, and provides an opportunity to reward the dog. The more the owner gets the dog to eliminate in the right place so the dog can be rewarded, the sooner the dog becomes reliable with house training. Conversely, free choice feeding can not only work against success, but it can have hidden dangers.

Health hazards from free-choice feeding There are problems with free-choice feeding that go beyond sabotaging the elimination schedule. Dogs who are fed free-choice are more often overweight, which has negative health impacts. Even if the owner doesn’t mind the extra pounds, an unexpected issue may

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crop up. I’ve known of a dog who was free-choice fed for many years, then suddenly when the dog was older, he overate, developing an emergency situation due to bloat. Dogs can die from bloat. Even if the owner gets a dog with bloat to the veterinarian in time to save the dog’s life, they will pay an expensive bill. I won’t argue if the owner really wants to free-choice feed the dog, but I do explain all of the down sides.

Exceptions to the free-choice rule

Even with my strong feelings not to free-choice feed a dog, I realize at times there are exceptions. Certain small breeds of dogs can have hypoglycemia issues if the owner tries to feed the dog once or twice a day. My first solution to this issue is to find out if their veterinarian can work out a feeding schedule for the dog to help with house training. However, if free-choice is what the dog needs, it is important to realize that there are exceptions to the rule. Even if house training the dog becomes more complicated, there may not be another option for certain breeds of dog.

Take advantage of walks Outdoor walks are key to making the go-to method successful. Sometimes a short walk is all that is needed, especially when the dog owner has worked to take advantage of times where the dog naturally will need to answer the call of nature. During the initial training, if no success happens within half an hour, then it is fine to return to the house for a break. However, the dog owner will need to offer another walking opportunity. How much later depends on the dog. Younger dogs, as noted above, need more opportunities than mature dogs. However, I coach the owners of newly rescued dogs that they may have better luck if they follow a schedule more like they’d do with a young dog.

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Encourage dog owners to walk their new dogs frequently, even if it means bundling up. One thing to emphasize is that some dogs new to a house may need time to get over uncertainties about the owner and the new home, or to recover from the stress of re-homing. That can create an interruption in the dog’s normal elimination schedule. New dog owners should be encouraged to help the dog feel comfortable and not to overwhelm her. By having the dog owner take the dog out often, and rewarding for success, the dog can more readily get into a normal routine. Remind the dog owner that the walking time will make it more likely that the dog will eliminate, since exercise helps create an urge to go. It is important to stress to the owner that the walking will help the new dog relax, as well as bond with the owner. In between walks, the owner may need to keep an eye on the dog to make sure she doesn’t decide it is now time to go. If the owners can’t watch the dog, they can use a crate.

Frequency in young dogs may increase with play

Check with the dog owner to make sure they are aware that when younger dogs play, they may need to answer the call of nature an extra time. The owner may need to learn to time how long the younger dog plays before taking her outside,

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or the owner may need to watch closely to see if the dog stops playing or begins to sniff the ground. These are great times to grab a treat and escort the dog outside on a leash.

Explain to the dog owner than when young dogs play, they often need to answer the call more often.

Reward considerations with the go-to method Most dog trainers think “treat” when they think of reward. However, dogs will respond to different things as rewards. Consider whether the dog is food-motivated or play-motivated, and note if the dog is sensitive to noise, emotion or both. It’s important to help a dog owner find the right kind of reward for the dog. For a dog who will eat anything with enthusiasm, biscuits or kibble may suffice. However, I like to make the reward extra special or high value. One of my favorite go-to rewards is a piece of meat. Chicken is generally easy on the digestive tract, and enjoyed by most dogs. I also like to encourage the dog owner to only use the “special” treat for house training, because that can create more enthusiasm for the

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treat. Typically, I like to give a word or two of praise or acknowledge the job done right, then follow up with a treat. Play-motivated dogs will often respond well to a higher-pitched tone of voice. Of course, there can be exceptions. With play-motivated dogs, you may have the dog owner consider using playful, happy praise either in place of or along with the treat. I’ve seen some dog owners make mistakes when giving out rewards using the go-to method. Carefully instruct them not to reward while the dog is in the process of doing his business. This can interrupt complete emptying, or may even confuse the dog. The best thing to do is to wait until the dog is completely finished, then before walking off, give praise and/or a treat. Please note that high-pitched tones can work against house training success with a more sensitive dog. I often watch the dog and the owner interact when I first come into a home. If the dog is friendly and outgoing, I make note. If the dog holds back or has a tucked tail or lowered ears, I watch to see if the dog is uncertain about me, or sensitive toward the owner. Some dogs are not secure with their owners. In those cases, I will work to help solve that insecurity with the dog owner so the house training can more readily proceed toward success. Some of the reasons dogs become insecure with their owners include: punishment instead of reward-based training, a more sensitive dog coupled with an owner who is too bold with interactions, and a dog who needed confidence-building but instead got coddled for fearful behaviors.

Clean-up considerations Regardless of the house training techniques used, there will be accidents. It isn’t unusual for a dog owner to need coaching on correct ways to clean up house soiling areas in their home. Even small accidents need to be addressed the right way. Ask how the dog owner cleans up both urine and feces. Too often people reach for vinegar, even though it is not known to eliminate the smell that can remain after cleaning attempts. It is important to emphasize that dogs have a more acute sense of smell, and that even if the dog owner can’t detect an odor, the dog can.

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Typically the best way to clean up after house soiling is with an enzymatic cleaner. These products help digest biological residue that other cleaning agents will leave behind. However, there is a technique to using the enzymatic cleaner. With feces, it is best to pick up the feces, then wash away any other residue. If the residue is on carpet, a small amount of carpet cleaner can be used. After the area looks clean, apply the enzymatic cleaner and let it soak for a few minutes. Then reapply and scrub the area. Finally reapply a small amount and let it air dry. When working to remove urine from a carpet, it is very important to use paper towels to first soak up as much urine as possible. After that is accomplished, generously apply the enzymatic cleaner. Leave the cleaner to soak in for about 10 minutes. Then use paper towels to soak up the cleaner. Depending on how much urine is being cleaned, the product may need to be reapplied a couple of times. Coach the dog owner to watch closely when the dog is in the soiled area. If the dog is sniffing the area, it most likely needs to be re-cleaned.

Clean up with enzymatic cleaners, and consider suggesting your client hire a professional cleaning service for long-term issues.

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Sometimes, a carpet will need to be professionally cleaned. If you detect an odor when you come in, or if the house soiling has gone on for a long time, this is a good suggestion. Have the client seek out a carpet cleaner who uses pet-friendly products and can guarantee success with removing house soiling stains.

Using a tether technique If the dog owner is not having success taking the dog outside at the right time, another technique to try is to tether the dog. One dog trainer used this with her young dog when she was having difficulty with his house training. She discovered her dog began to develop a consistent habit where he came back inside after being put out to do his business, she would sneak away down the hall to eliminate. She found the tether technique helped solve that problem. The idea behind the tether technique is that you can better keep track of the dog. That way instead of finding messes in the house, the dog can be escorted outside and rewarded for success. There are some guidelines to teach your clients so they get the most out of this technique. One common way to tether the dog is to attach a leash to the belt hook on your pants. The dog owner needs to do this at all times when the dog is inside. With some dogs, the client will at first need to take the dog out every couple of hours until the dog has success. A good way to ensure this happens is to have the client set a timer. That way the dog owner doesn’t forget and go past the time to take out the dog. Keep in mind that sometimes the dog may need to be taken out a little more often. For example, if the dog failed to eliminate outside first thing in the morning, then the client would be wise to take the dog out every half an hour until elimination happens. Tethers can also be attached to someplace nearby where the client is working, so the client can move around in the room. However, clients need to thoroughly understand the dog is never to be left unattended. If the client needs to leave the room, even for a moment, the dog should be allowed to follow along. When the dog is tethered nearby, the client needs to glance at the dog often to make sure he doesn’t eliminate while tethered. 21

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With dogs who seem to have developed a preference for eliminating inside, the client needs to be coached and encouraged. The client must be diligent about using the tether and the timer. The client will need to be encouraged that it may take some time to establish the right habit in the dog. Often it seems as if one day a light bulb goes off and the dog finally develops the right habits and responds consistently.

Summary Although I typically approach house training failures and initial house training efforts with my go-to method, it is important that a dog trainer be willing to adjust to the needs of the dog and his owners. It is also a good idea to come prepared with more than one technique and be ready to modify to suit the situation. Be aware that working to succeed with more difficult house training issues often means working to change habits in the dog owner. Be on the lookout for a negative attitude in the dog owner when discussing their issues with house training. If you come across this, approach the situation by staying positive and offering encouragement. That sets the stage for you when you educate the dog owner about the value of keeping their training positive. Also be watchful of the dog owner’s overall frustration level. By understanding the dog owner’s feelings, and explaining how the right techniques will bring success, you can help them find the patience to see issues through to their desired resolution.

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2 Using Crates for House Training

Crates are great tools when it comes to facilitating house training, and for offering a dog a sanctuary. Confinement in a crate often helps dogs learn to “hold” things until they are let outside. For some dogs, crates become their preferred area to sleep or get away from commotion in the house. Dogs who are acclimated to staying in a crate may feel less insecure if they need to go to a veterinarian and stay overnight. Unfortunately, some dogs have issues with a crate. If the dog hates the crate, the crate can’t be used to help train the dog. The solution is to teach the dog how to enjoy being inside a crate, even if the dog has past negative history with the crate. While crates can be an extremely useful tool during house training, they are less helpful with dogs who chronically mess inside the crate. In this case, specialized techniques can be employed to change that behavior. Fortunately, both those problems can be addressed through training.

Proper use of the crate It is a good idea to make sure your client understands the rules for correct use of crates. Unfortunately, when it comes to this topic, the discussion is more often a list of what not to do than what to do. Below is information to share with your clients to help prevent crating issues.

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Conversely, with crates offering dog owners so many advantages, it is ideal to set up a positive experience with the crate from the very beginning. This can be as simple as providing the dog a favorite chew or interactive toy only when he is in the crate, and teaching a command that instructs the dog to go in voluntarily, so there is never physical force involved. By introducing a crate correctly, and using the crate in the right ways, dogs will find the crate a welcome area to stay, even for extended periods of time.

Choosing the right kind and size of crate is essential.

Don’t use crates for isolation The dog needs to learn first that a crate doesn’t automatically mean the dog owner has just left the house for what the dog may perceive as forever. This can happen when the dog owner puts the dog into a crate without first creating an association of the owner being around when the dog is in the crate. Once the dog has that positive association, the dog will more readily acclimate to spending time alone in the crate. For that reason, it is important to have the owner slowly increase the amount of time the dog stays by himself in a crate. There are several ways to accomplish this. One way is to crate the dog when the owner is home, preferably having the crate close to where the owner is hanging out. One good option is when the dog owner is watching television. Set the crate close to where the dog owner is sitting and put the dog inside. For some people, it may also help to have a crate in the same room where the owner is sleeping, generating 24

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companionship associations with being in the crate at night. Once the dog is relaxed about staying in the crate, the dog owner can use this as a confinement tool when not at home, which can often help facilitate house training.

Make sure the dog develops a positive association with the crate.

Don’t use an undersized crate Sadly, a misunderstanding came about in regard to determining the right size crate for a dog. The result was dogs were put into crates that were too small. For a while, some dog trainers were recommending that a crate only be large enough for a dog to stand up, turn around, and lie back down in the same place. This is not good advice. A crate this small can result in a dog being forced to lie in excrement should the dog have an accident in the crate. This can lead to a dog who gives up trying to keep the sleeping area clean. A better guideline for an appropriate crate is to make sure the crate is big enough so the dog doesn’t need to lie in an accident, but is not so large that it invites the dog to use one end as a restroom area. 25

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Make sure the crate is large enough so that the dog doesn’t have to lie in an accident.

Never use a crate for punishment It is often a good idea when working on a house training issue with a client to ask about how they use the crate. I go down a list of questions including: • Did you crate train your dog? If so, how? • How long has the dog been using a crate? • How long at a time is the dog crated? • Does the dog show any unease or destructive behavior when left alone in the crate? • Do you ever use the crate to discipline or punish the dog? If the person sometimes puts the dog into a crate when they are having behavior issues, I clarify a few points. It is never okay to scold or physically strike a dog, or interact in a negative way before putting a dog in a crate. It is okay to crate a dog who is over-excited or unable

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to focus. Preferably in a quiet area. It is also okay to offer a chew item for the dog who is crated. When crating a dog for any reason, the owner needs to be exuding a positive attitude to avoid giving the dog a negative association with the crate. By correcting any wrong actions on the part of the dog owner, you can often ward off training issues with the crate.

Over-confinement issues Dogs who have a positive association with a crate can have the association destroyed by over-confinement, i.e., leaving the dog in the crate for longer than she can tolerate. Dog owners need to be aware that crate tolerance varies among dogs, including how long the dog has been conditioned to stay in the crate. When a dog is put into a crate for extended periods of time, without preconditioning or regard for the dog’s tolerance, problems can arise. Tolerance levels can vary depending on the dog’s sense of security with the crate, and the dog’s activity level, age and temperament. One situation I came across involved a dog named Timber, a Husky mix. Her original owners gave her no training, and this mischievous dog soon became so problematic that she was surrendered to a rescue. She was fine about being crated for short periods of time. However, the rescue, without any preconditioning, kept her confined in a crate for over eight months with almost no time outside of the crate. This created an issue with Timber about any kind of pen or crate confinement.

With Timber, over-confinement in a crate created extra training challenges.

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Timber’s first adopter reported that she regularly tried to escape from her back yard by digging under a fence and squeezing out. The dog was re-homed in short order. The second owner found that Timber had developed separation anxiety in addition to wanting to escape, and as a result she destroyed a lot of property. I fostered Timber for a while to help resolve behavior issues so she could be re-homed successfully. This took several months and a lot of work. Had she been handled correctly beginning as a puppy, and not over-confined, she’d have succeeded more easily in an earlier home. I always wondered what confinement in that crate for eight months was like to create such a loathing for any kind of pen or crate. The third owner was counseled about Timber’s issue with confinement and didn’t try to put her in a pen or crate. Fortunately for Timber, house training was accomplished without a crate, using a method similar to the go-to method. The point of this story is twofold. First, rescues need to be mindful of not over-confining dogs in crates. If you are a dog trainer who is working with or has contact with rescues, please help educate them about this problem. Second, be aware that dogs who feel too stressed in a crate may also eliminate in the crate due to the stress. This can end up creating issues with a dog who chronically eliminates in a crate. If you encounter a dog who finds crating stressful, you can often overcome this using the method below, which creates a positive association with the crate.

Help! My dog hates the crate Any of the above situations can create a negative association with the crate in a dog’s mind. The good news is that there is a procedure you can use to change that association. Below is a training process to reform dogs who hate the crate.

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Shilo hated the crate Shilo was a dog I acquired from a rescue, who required a lot of behavior modification before she could be placed in a permanent home. When I picked her up from the rescue, I was told she hated the crate. It appeared her former owner had used the crate for punishment. One of the first tasks I undertook was to change the negative association to positive. To do that, I used systematic desensitization. That process is described below. It worked well to turn Shilo into a dog who would lie inside her crate for hours just hanging out.

With Shilo, using the crate for punishment left her hating the crate.

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Systematic desensitization is a technique that involves gradual exposure to an anxiety-producing stimulus, like an object or place, followed by a relaxation technique or exercise. Below is an outline of the steps you can use with dogs who hate the crate. The times and distances are suggestions, so feel free to adjust the training according to the dog’s progress.

Identify the reaction distance to the crate Have the crate located in an area where the dog owner keep the crate for a long period of time without needing to move it. Ask the owner to lead the dog using a leash or lure with food toward the crate. At the point the dog balks, drop something on the floor to temporarily mark the area. Note: Dogs may walk closer to the crate on their own than when a person is with them. That can happen when the dog has a negative association with both the crate and the person who puts the dog in the crate. This is most often seen when the crate is used for punishment, although some dogs simply realize that it is “safe” to go near the crate when there is no one nearby to put them in it. For this exercise, the distance you want to mark is where the dog balks when he is being led or coaxed by his owner.

Securely mark the training area After the dog is led away, the reaction point can be marked with something that isn’t easily moved. I like to use a durable but thin throw rug. Simply remove the temporary marker and replace it with a rug that won’t easily slip on the floor. Place the edge of the rug or other marker at the edge of the reaction zone, so you have a clear line that indicates the very closest the dog will possibly feel safe when approaching the crate. It’s often a good idea to begin your desensitization having backed off a little from that mark. By lining up the rug with the reaction point, the food bowl used in the next step can be centered on the rug.

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My favorite way to mark the training area is with a thin throw rug that I can leave in place.

Feed at a distance where the dog feels secure The training begins with feeding the dog on the throw rug at a distance from the crate where the dog feels safe enough to readily eat. As mentioned, it is fine to center the food dish on the rug, which means the food dish is a little farther away from the crate than the reaction point was. A good way to introduce the dog to eating near the crate is to take the dog to the usual area where his food is prepared. Have the owner put food in the dish, making sure the dog knows it is there. Then, have the owner use the food dish to lure the dog over to the throw rug that marks the training area. Have the owner set the dish in the middle of the throw rug, and then step away, allowing the dog to eat his meal. Sometimes the dog will stop sooner when the owner leads the dog towards the area with a dish of food. I typically see this kind of reaction when someone has tried to use food to lure a dog to the crate and the dog learned to balk. If the dog stops farther away than originally marked, simply have the owner set down the food dish in that new location and allow the dog to eat there. After the dog has eaten, relocate the marker to where the dog felt comfortable enough to eat.

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Critique the dog owner Watch the dog owners as they carry the food dish to the training location, and watch how they talk to the dog. Ideally they have a calm attitude when doing this training. A matter-of-fact tone of voice is a good idea since the goal is to get the dog to relax around the crate. Granted, some dogs are used to responding to a motivational or higher-pitched voice from their owners at feeding time. That is okay as long as it is working. However, make sure the dog doesn’t become apprehensive during the training. Even with dogs who otherwise like a chirpy tone from the owner, when the dog is uncertain, he may respond better to soothing sounds. If the dog is showing tension that might be related to the owner’s tone of voice, coach them on using a calmer, more secure tone.

Make sure the dog feels secure when the owner is undertaking this training. Be watchful of the dog for slowing of pace when approaching the training area, lowering of the ears or tail, or a slight hunching of the back. If the dog shows any reluctance, stop at the point where the body language changed and work to calm the dog. If needed, you can have the owner sit down on the floor when the dog shows reluctance or tension. The owner can then interact in a positive way with the dog. If the dog readily relaxes, then the owner can again try moving forward. If the dog is still reluctant, then the beginning 32

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training area needs to be moved to this new location. Be observant to make sure that the owner’s body language is never tense, which can create tension in the dog.

Determining initial training time If I am dealing with a dog who shows a lot of reluctance to approach the crate, I will typically have the owner do the training in that initial area for about a week. I check in with the owner during the week to help troubleshoot issues. When I return, I look to see if the dog is relaxed about following the owner to the initial training area. If so, then the owner can begin to move the food forward. Since you are there to observe, in your next session, instead of having the owner step away from the food dish, have the owner set it down and remain in place, so you can make sure that the dog is not apprehensive about the owner being close by when the dog eats. If that is an issue, it will need to be addressed as well. You will find that information below. If this is not an issue, the owner can begin to remain close while the dog eats.

Check to make sure the dog accepts the owner staying beside the food dish.

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Moving the bowl closer Once the dog is relaxed about following the owner to the initial training area, and readily eats the food place in that area, it is time to move the food dish closer to the crate. For a dog who readily showed confidence when establishing the initial training area, I may venture moving the food dish a foot. If this first part of the training took time to complete, I will move the food dish half a foot.

When moving the food dish closer, observe how the dog reacts to the new location. When moving the food dish closer, it is important to observe how the dog reacts to this new location. If the dog shows a little reluctance, expect to stay at this level for several days. If the dog is skittish about the new location, then the rule of thumb is to move the food dish halfway back to the original position. Ideally, you never move the food dish backward all the way to the original position. However, if you find it necessary to move back to a previous training location to get the dog to relax enough to eat, then the dog probably needed more time at the previous location before moving the food dish forward. 34

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If the owners encounter a setback, be prepared to coach them that it is important to be patient when moving the food dish forward and to make sure the dog feels secure. Rushing can cause regression or failure. When resuming forward movement of the food dish, if the dog had significant regression issues, then only move the food dish an inch or two. Give time for the dog to relax in each new location. Encourage the dog owners by telling them that although this process may take many weeks, when done correctly, it works quite well.

Arriving at the crate At the point where you have the dog food dish up against the entrance to the crate, and the dog comfortable with the owner standing there while the dog eats, it is again time to slow down. Feed several times at this location until the dog shows certainty about eating there consistently. Once the dog shows a seemingly carefree attitude while the food dish is at the mouth of the crate, have the owner put a few high-value treats just inside the crate. The ideal location is one where the dog only has to lean his head in to retrieve the treat.

When you arrive at the crate, let the dog eat the food as usual. Let the dog get used to eating the high-value treat from inside the crate. But here is an important point: The dog must learn to eat that treat as soon as the owner puts it inside before you move to the next part of the training. If the dog is hesitant about going right for that treat when it is put inside the crate, then the dog needs more time at this level.

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After the dog eats food from the bowl outside, put a high-value treat just inside the crate.

Feeding in the crate Once the dog will go right after that high-value treat in the crate as soon as the owner sets it there, the food dish should be set in the crate. Give the dog several days to get completely comfortable with eating with the food dish just inside the crate door. Once the dog will eat from the food dish when that dish is inside the crate, begin moving the food dish, a few inches each time, farther into the crate. Stop the movement any time the dog shows reluctance about going inside, especially if the dog steps inside and then retreats. If you need to back up, that is okay. Let the dog have plenty of time getting used to going farther and farther into the crate and feeling totally comfortable at each new level. Once the food dish reaches the back of the crate, and the dog doesn’t bolt out after the food is gone, scatter several high-value treats in addition to the food at the back of the crate. Let the dog go inside and eat them. When the dog gets done and turns around, as long as the dog is still relaxed, have the owner hand the dog a high-value chew item and slowly close the door. The owner must stay right in front of the crate door while the dog eats the chew item. Once the dog is done, the owner can talk calmly to the dog and open up the

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door to let the dog out. Practice this part of the training, making sure the dog learns there is no hurry to come out of the crate.

Sometimes, you can encourage the dog by tossing a treat to the back of the crate, even before you begin to move the food dish to the back. Once the dog is consistent about calmly walking out of the crate after the dog owner opens the door, instead of scattering treats, have the dog owner offer a high-value chew bone. Again have the owner stay nearby as the dog chews on the treat for a while. Then, before the treat is entirely consumed, have the dog owner open the door and call the dog out. The owner needs to trade some high-value treats for the chew bone, which is then saved for the next part of the training. Of course, this chew bone may occasionally need to be replaced when it is consumed over several training sessions. Have the dog owner begin latching the crate when the dog is chewing the high-value bone. At first the owner will need to linger nearby. However, as the dog becomes relaxed about staying in the crate and chewing the bone, the owner can begin to wander a few steps away, then return. When this goes well, the owner can venture father away, but stay in sight of the dog. Some dogs will not mind being left in the crate for a while at this stage. Instruct the owner to watch the dog’s behavior and body language carefully, and to slowly increase the dog’s time in the crate until they get to the point that the dog is

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comfortable staying in the crate even after the high-value chew bone is consumed. In general, it is helpful if the owner feeds the dog in the crate for a long time after the dog learns to feel comfortable with the crate. Some owners may find they always want to feed in the crate.

Give the dog a high-value chew item and latch the crate when the dog is inside. Over time, this can result in the dog becoming comfortable to chew things inside the crate on his own.

Additional training for negative owner and crate association As described above, at the first location, the training begins by having the owner put down the food dish and walk away. Once the dog begins to readily eat the meal after it is placed down, it is a good idea to observe whether the dog has an adverse response when the owner stays nearby while the dog eats. To do this, have the dog owner set down the food dish, but instead of walking off, have the owner stay next to the dog. If the dog readily eats after the food dish is put down, then the training can progress to the next step where the food dish is moved forward as indicated above. If the dog hesitates when the owner is around, or eats nervously or faster, then expect to work with the owner on desensitizing the dog to this situation. Look for the dog only taking one bite and wanting to back away, and/or the dog hunching or lowering a tail or ears. A 38

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good way to get the dog comfortable with the owner being nearby during the training is to use a similar technique to the one used when acclimating the dog to the crate. Have the owner set down the food dish, quietly turn around, and slowly walk off. The owner will need to pay attention to how far away he or she needs to go before the dog begins to eat comfortably. Mark that area. Have the owner start setting down the food dish, then retreating to the area where the dog will feel comfortable eating. The owner needs to stay in that area until the dog has finished eating. After the dog has a few experiences getting comfortable with the owner in that area, the owner can begin to retreat a slightly shorter distance from the food dish after it is set down. Have the owner work with the dog at the initial training location until the dog will readily eat food with the owner right next to him. Only then can the food dish be inched toward the crate. With dogs who show a negative response to the owner’s presence, the owner will need to make sure the dog is comfortable with the owner being by the food dish as that dish is inched toward the crate. This way the dog learns to feel secure about both being in the crate and having the owner involved in putting the dog in the crate.

Be watchful for any reluctance from the dog with the owner. Work to correct relationship issues.

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Resolving issues with dogs who chronically mess in the crate The reason dogs keep a crate clean can be traced back to a den instinct. Dogs, by nature, want to keep their sleeping area, their den, clean. However, certain circumstances can disrupt that natural tendency. Dogs who can no longer “hold” things, but who are locked in a crate, end up messing in what the dog considers a den area. Other reasons dogs may not seem to have any interest in keeping a crate clean include being forced to lie in feces because a crate is too small and the dog had an accident in the crate. Some mill dogs end up having excrement drop from the crate above and cake onto the dog’s coat. No matter what the reason for crate soiling, it often falls on the shoulders of the dog trainer to come up with solutions. Below are ones I’ve found successful, presented in the order I’d recommend trying when working through this issue.

A clean experience When dogs are in situations for extended amounts of time where they can’t keep the sleeping area clean, their instincts to keep their crate clean can seem to disappear. In my experience, some dogs have a stronger innate instinct in this department than others. One way to get a dog to reconnect with his instinct to keep a crate clean is to arrange for the dog to exist in a consistently clean crate. Troubleshooting with the client is one of the first steps to getting a dog back in touch with the concept of keeping a den/sleeping area clean. Before you set about the task of retraining a dog not to eliminate in the crate, take time to make sure any possible driving factors that may keep the dog in the habit are resolved.

Check the crate size Some dog owners may be housing the dog in too small of a crate. As mentioned before, this can result in the dog being forced to lie in any accidents. Likewise, too large of a crate may invite dogs to sleep in one end and eliminate in the other. Check out the dog’s crate and make sure it is a good size.

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Too small of a crate can create crate fouling issues.

Looking for stress-related crate fouling A dog who is feeling stressed will typically not be able to hold feces or urine as long. That can create a situation where the dog who is crated for several hours begins to eliminate in the crate. It can be helpful to identify stressors in the household. It is a good idea to observe the dog when you first meet him. See if he is relaxed around the owner or if he acts timid, has a hunched posture, tends to keep his distance, or appears to avoid you or others in the home. Ask the dog owner if the crate fouling problem has cropped up more recently or was consistent throughout the dog’s life. Some dogs may develop issues after changes occur in the household, especially if the humans in the house feel stressed as a result of those changes. Some dogs are more susceptible to an owner’s stress. Other reasons a dog may feel less secure include:

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• The owner acquired a puppy who was then never socialized or guided through fear stages. Now they have a dog who, because of insecurity, is easily stressed. • The owner may have gotten a dog from rescue and the dog needs help to feel secure in the new home, but the owner doesn’t know how to help. • The owner may be using harsher training techniques than the dog can tolerate. • The dog is noise sensitive, shy or reserved, and the owners don’t understand how to work with these situations so they can help the dog feel more secure and less stressed. If you find the dog is dealing with a lot of stress or can’t relax in the home, then that issue will need to be resolved before the dog can learn to keep a crate clean for several hours.

Dogs who feel stressed or fearful can’t hold things as long and will need to be taken out more often.

Make sure the dog isn’t being asked for more than she can do Some dogs can hold their bowels and bladder for incredible amounts of time, while others, even as adults, struggle to hold it for eight hours. Since crating typically lowers the dog’s activity level, most dogs can hold things longer in a crate. However, the crate can’t extend that ability forever. If the dog isn’t holding things very long, and stress isn’t a driving factor, then it is a good idea to consult with a veterinarian.

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Retraining dogs who mess in the crate The first step in this process is to make sure the owner is feeding on a schedule and making note of what time the dog eliminates. That gives people a chance to let the dog out at the appropriate times, which helps prevent the dog from eliminating in the crate. This can help form the right habit in the dog and allows him to get a reward for eliminating outside, which can encourage the right behavior. If the dog does have an accident, it needs to be cleaned up thoroughly as soon as possible. The dog must not be scolded or disciplined for any accidents. Instead, the owners should quietly clean up the mess. If they catch the dog in the middle of eliminating, they can call the dog in a motivational voice, and if it’s possible to grab a treat, they can use it to lure the dog outside. Warn clients that the first time or two they attempt this, the dog is likely to finish his business. However, if they persist, they can have better luck interrupting the process. Since it is imperative to keep the crate cleaned up after accidents, the owner will benefit from learning ways to make the task easier. Encourage owners to get a lot of inexpensive towels and some enzymatic cleaner such as Nature’s Miracle. Having an ample supply of towels will help them to quickly and easily restore a clean crate environment if any accidents happen inside the crate. This is far easier than constantly washing one or two pads that are used in the crate. The enzymatic cleaner needs to be used on the floor of the crate each time towels are changed, and should also be used on any outside areas that are soiled around the crate. Having numerous towels will allow the dog owner to have enough to do an entire load of wash at once, with a few in reserve while the towels are being washed. The enzymatic cleaner needs to be used in the load of towels to help ensure all odors are gone. Dogs can pick up these odors at much lower levels than humans. Inform the owners that this technique can take a few months. If after a month they see no progress at all, you may consider another technique.

The doggy RV approach The doggy RV strategy is a good one for some dog owners. This technique utilizes an x-pen or kennel to close off an area around the

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crate in which the dog can eliminate if need be. Of course, you will need to make modifications for different size dogs as well as availability of a reasonably priced large crate. I borrowed mine, but there are other ways to make this kind of setup more affordable. For small dogs who don’t jump out of a pen, an x-pen may be a good idea. When setting up an x-pen, I like to put down plastic first to guard against leaks onto carpet or other flooring. Then on the plastic, I either place puppy pads or newspapers. Arrange the dog’s bed in one area with food and water nearby. I like to put down a small mat for the food and water, especially when using puppy pads. That helps to keep smells from the pad separate from the food.

I call this setup a doggy RV. For larger dogs, some owners may be willing to set up a dog kennel. A structure 6 feet long by 4 feet wide is available at different heights. If they are willing to shop around, owners can find these at a somewhat reasonable price. They can be bought with a roof if escape is an issue. A structure this size can be accommodated in most homes. Large dogs can have their bed at one end with their food and water

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nearby. This allows the dog the rest of the kennel area should he need to eliminate at a time the owner can’t let him out. It is always a good idea to make a specific area where the dog is to eliminate. For retraining a dog, I like to use a box with dirt in it.

Dirt boxes Although many people grab puppy pads, I like an idea suggested by noted dog behavior expert Dr. Ian Dunbar: Put a box of dirt in the pen so dogs can learn to eliminate on the same kind of substrate they will eliminate on outside. When I do this, I will often put a little of the dog’s poop in that dirt box until the dog learns to use it. It is good to explain to the dog owner that although a dog will urinate in one area time and again, the dog will not deposit feces on top of feces. So although the dog can have one dropping in the box to encourage the dog, after that, the box needs to be kept tidy. When using a dirt box, I don’t use puppy pads anywhere. That would send a mixed message about where and on what you ultimately want the dog to eliminate. It is also important to clean up any messes outside of the box as soon and as thoroughly as possible. Once again, an enzymatic cleaner is recommended. In general, when using this kind of technique, the dog owner needs to give the dog some time to get into the new habit of only eliminating in the dirt box. Once the dog gets reliable at that, and the dog owner learns the times when the dog is likely to eliminate, the dog owner can work on taking the dog outside at the correct times for success. When the dog begins to demonstrate reliability, he can be transitioned into a crate and the go-to method can be employed.

Dealing with dogs who remain determined to poop where they sleep With some dogs, setting up the RV isn’t enough. The dog just seems determined to poop on the sleeping area. In this situation, there is something else you can try: a dog hammock. This device comes under various names, but in principle, the sleeping area is like a hammock, where the dog dips down when lying on it. The advantage to using a hammock is that it is highly challenging for the dog to balance on this sleeping area while trying to eliminate. However, the 45

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dog can readily jump off and eliminate elsewhere. Once the dog gets used to eliminating where you want him to, you can substitute a bed for the hammock. When the dog becomes reliable about not fouling the bed area, you can begin to crate the dog. But, make sure you know the dog’s elimination schedule so you can take the dog out at the appropriate times and reward the dog for success going outside. It is important to arrange things so that the dog does not have accidents inside the crate.

Summary Crates are a very valuable tool when working to house train a dog. However, they must never be overused. Owners and rescues need to be cautioned about excessive crating of dogs. Some dogs loathe the crate, often because it was used for punishment. Fortunately, by using systematic desensitization, dogs can develop a more positive association with the crate. With dogs who chronically foul in a crate, retraining involves two facets: working to find times to have the dog outside so he can be rewarded for correct elimination, and working to keep the crate area cleaned up after any accidents while making elimination in the crate more challenging or less desirable for the dog. With some dogs, it is necessary to work to reconnect the dog with the concept of keeping the sleeping area clean. For dogs who seem resistant to this idea, using a dog hammock can help.

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3 Underlying Causes of House Training Problems

There are a number of reasons house training problems occur, both with newly acquired dogs and with those who have lived with their owners for a period of time and show signs of regressing in their ability to remain house trained (more on regression in Chapter 4). While some of the causes are readily evident, consulting with the owner and assessing the situation through a home visit is often required. Often, when I am called to consult on a house training issue, I either talk to the owner on the phone or exchange information via email so I can be better prepared before I visit the home. Questions to ask the dog owner include: • How long has this issue gone on? • What has been tried to resolve the issue? • Were there any changes in the household prior to the issue beginning?

Initial observations in the home When I arrive at the client’s home, I observe both the dog and the owner. I especially look for a chance to study how the dog interacts

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with me and the humans in the household, and how I feel the dog’s behaviors align with what the owner has described. I look for signs that the dog is not a happy, well-adjusted pet, often in reaction to owners who do not know how to read their dogs, or make them uncomfortable without knowing they are doing it. Some clues include: • The dog’s ears and tail are lowered or tucked. • The dog is sitting or standing slightly hunched. • The dog seems unwilling to look toward me or the dog’s owner in a relaxed manner. Even the dog’s gait can be a clue. Watch to see if the dog readily leaves the house and enters the potty area, or if she walks as if she is on uncomfortable gravel. Well-adjusted dogs typically come and greet people. They take interest in what is going on, but don’t feel threatened by your presence. If I observe behaviors in the dog I am not sure about, I don’t jump to the conclusion the dog is shy by nature or timid. I ask the dog owner if the way the dog is behaving is normal for the dog, or if the dog’s behavior toward people entering the house has changed. As you work with more and more clients, you may find that some have “unique” ideas about how to do things that are clearly counterproductive and impact the house training process negatively. For example, they may resort to yelling at or swatting a dog for an accident five minutes after it occurred. It may be something more subtle like the owner bending over the dog or making physical contact with the dog in a way that makes the dog appear uncomfortable. Often the owner is unaware that his or her action may result in submissive or greeting peeing, which are detailed in Chapters 6 and 7.

Dealing with punitive methods

Many owners show a tendency to use punitive treatments when dealing with house training problems. That was the way they learned to train, often from their parents. I do not feel it is my job to scold or lecture a client about wrongdoings. Instead, I feel clients have hired me to help educate

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them in a better way to do things, or offer specific training to resolve their issue. I don’t lecture, because I understand that they don’t know any other way to deal with the problem. Therefore, I take an educational approach when I talk to a client and work with them so they understand that there are better ways to deal with house training problems. You also should be very observant of the dog owner’s home. Does the place have a slight odor indicating the person isn’t adequately keeping accidents cleaned up? Are there other aspects of the setup that might make the dog reluctant to eliminate outdoors, such as a slippery floor near the back door or an annoying sound near the desired elimination spot?

Common reasons for house training problems Some of the most common reasons dogs may struggle with house training include: • Stress • Introduction of a new dog • Insecurity • Onset of adolescence • Onset of sexual maturity • Pain • Separation anxiety

Stress Stress can be defined as any uncomfortable emotional experience accompanied by predictable biochemical, physiological and behavioral changes.

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Look for body language that indicates a dog is fearful or insecure such as stress panting. Notice the cup in the tongue. Dogs can become stressed in a household for a variety of reasons. It’s important to remember that stress is not just in the dog’s head; it creates predictable biochemical and physiological changes that affect the whole body. Stress in a dog can cause a variety of issues including the tendency to sleep more, a decrease in appetite, upset stomach, diarrhea, constipation, nausea and even aggression in some individuals. If you are called in for a house training problem where the dog has regressed and now eliminates more frequently or on a different schedule, stress may be behind the problem. Below are some of the reasons dogs may feel stress:

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Changes in the household, including the arrival of a baby, can result in a dog beginning to house soil. • A family member departing the household on a long-term or permanent basis • Relocation to a new home • An owner taking a vacation • A child in turbulent adolescence creating more stress and tension in the household • A change in a job for one of the adults, or a threat to job security

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• Deployment of a family member, especially to a dangerous part of the world • A new animal added to the household, especially if the existing dog is insecure • A new family member added to the household • Someone diagnosed with or dealing with a disease or change in health • A dog owner who uses harsh training techniques, especially when coupled with a more sensitive dog • A death in the family, even if the death is not someone in the immediate household • Divorce or pending divorce • Retirement or pending retirement

Playing detective when interviewing for stressors Some dogs may become stressed or fearful when a guest is over. So watch to see if the dog is hanging close to the owner and avoiding guests (including you), or if the dog is timid around the owner. If the dog is not walking well, but doesn’t appear to be reacting adversely about interacting with people, then make sure the dog isn’t in pain. I’ve known of some dogs whose elimination habits improved dramatically after a visit to a canine chiropractor. You need to try to isolate the causative factors when constructing a solution. Open-ended questions can help you in your attempt to find answers. These questions are designed to encourage a more expanded answer and often require answers with more information and/or feelings. A closed-ended question encourages a short or single-word answer such as “yes” or “no.” Since the investigative questions you’ll be asking often involve very personal information, you need to use extreme tact when constructing questions. Below is an example of a conversation that might help you uncover issues causing the dog’s regression.

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Relevant but closed-ended question: “Have there been any changes in the household?” Dog owner (DO) being interviewed: “Not really.” However, you know that the dog owners are in their 50s and have one teenage child, Sam, at home who looks to be in high school. You ask: “Is Sam your only child?” DO: “No.” Open-ended question: “Can you tell me a little about your other child?” DO: “Well, our other son, Tom, started college last month.” You: “When did you notice the dog having issues?” DO: “About three weeks ago.” Open ended question: “What are some of the differences in how Sam and Tom interact with the dog?” DO: “The dog goes to Sam’s room now, but Sam doesn’t take her for walks like Tom did. The dog used to sleep in Tom’s room.” A couple of stress factors may be at play here. The dog may be missing a household member who is now at college. The other is that one or more of Tom’s parents may have become somewhat depressed after their son left, and the dog picked up on the emotional changes in those family members. Not all dogs will react to emotional changes in people; however, some dogs will. This can create the kind of stress that causes house training regression. Sometimes you are dealing with an additive effect of issues. The dog misses Tom, the dog has had a disruption to her routine, there are changes in the family structure, and one or both parents may possibly be a little depressed about the absence of their first-born child.

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When problems result from human stress

Not all clients are going to be comfortable answering personal questions that are related to stresses in the household. How you approach the questions can help. I always use a calm, comforting tone when I ask personal questions. This will work better than an upbeat tone of voice. I may also say things like, “Often times, I’ve seen issues like this when there are changes in the household, including things like people leaving the home, or a death in the family.” At that point I pause and see if the client will offer information. If not, I may say, “Is there anything you can think of that happened prior to the house training regression that may have affected the dog?” However, I never push if someone doesn’t want to share information. In an ideal situation, the family members deal with their stress, thus improving the environment for the dog. Dogs still may need to be retrained after the stress is resolved. Although you are not there to offer human psychological advice, what you can do is to look for adversive situations that may be creating more insecurity and stress for the dog.

Stress related to inappropriate methods One of my first questions is often: “How do you deal with the dog’s mess in the house?” The right answer is: “We quietly clean it up using an enzymatic cleaner.” However, if the answer is more along the lines of: “I show the dog the mess and scold her,” this situation is the first you work to change.

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Owners may have had a previous dog who adjusted to harsher techniques, but the current dog has a different temperament and these same techniques exacerbate the problem. To help the dog owner learn to change, I explain that stress can cause the dog to need to eliminate more often, which can result in accidents in the house. I then explain that scolding the dog tends to not communicate what the dog owner is displeased about, as much as it adds to the dog’s stress, thus perpetuating the problem. With most stress issues, I set people up with my go-to method. I especially like to emphasize that taking longer walks when working to re-establish house training can reduce the dog’s stress and improve the dog and owner bond. I also find that sometimes I need to make suggestions to help tailor the solution for the dog. For example, in the situation above where Tom left for college, I might suggest that Sam consider taking the dog for a walk after school each night for a week to help the dog get over missing Tom. I will remind them that even if Sam really doesn’t want to do this, since it is only for a week, he may be convinced to help. If the parents indicate that it’s is unlikely Sam will do this, then I suggest one of them consider taking on that role. If no one wants to

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take the dog for a walk, then I suggest they interact with the dog in another way. If the dog likes to play, they can play with the dog for a little while each night. If the dog readily eats his food, then they can hand feed the dog part of her meal. I often suggest they up the affection they show the dog in the form of calming petting. If I am sensing reluctance in the family to help fill the missing role left by Tom’s departure, I emphasize that I’m only talking about a week, perhaps two, to try and effect change. I also remind them that the time they dedicate to these activities is time they will save not needing to clean up messes once the dog’s habits begin to change. Ironically, in these situations, there are times when the dog ends up helping one of the family members adapt to the loss of another family member. When the family member interacts more with the dog or takes the dog for walks, it can be healing for both.

Introducing a new dog to the household New dogs being adopted and brought into the household can trigger regression issues in the current canine family members. All of a sudden, the dog who was reliably house trained is having accidents. This can especially be an issue if the new dog has a mishap.

Some dogs adjust to new dogs in the household while others feel insecure. Insecurity can result in house training regression.

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When I am dealing with a newly acquired dog, I ask a number of questions about the change. How long has the newer dog been there? Newer dogs may not have had time to settle into their new home and feel secure. Some owners may not intuitively understand that it can take time for a new dog to settle into the new residence. Structure and routine are a good way to help the household return to a stable and relaxed state for the existing dog and the new dog. One suggestion I often make is for the dog owners to consider taking both dogs outside when applying the go-to method. Some people rescue a dog, but after years of ownership, have never rescued the dog from fear and insecurity. Watch for dog owners who learn to adapt to the dog’s fear, rather than addressing it. If you suspect the original dog is afraid of people or other dogs, query the owners about that. Try and discover if the owners are the type to coddle their fearful dog, instead of teaching the dog how to feel secure in a situation. Insecure dogs are more likely to regress in a household when a new dog arrives, especially if the new dog has an accident. Dogs need to learn how to feel secure with and without their owners present to be well-balanced. The well-balanced dog is far less likely to have house training or separation anxiety issues. If I find the dog is acting insecure in my presence, I will employ training strategies to help build security in both dogs. Some of the interaction mistakes, as well as how to correct the insecurity, are outlined in my book Rescue Your Dog from Fear. By nature, newness or novelty often draw our attention. That is just human. If the new dog is a rescue who is thought to have had a rough life, some people want to nurture the dog, at times excessively. This kind of relationship with a new dog can create stress and insecurity in the new dog, which can also cause stress and regression in the existing dog. Although some dogs will thrive with extra attention, not all dogs welcome it until they’ve gotten to know a person better and begun to relax in a household. Ask how the owner gives both dogs attention. Try and discover if the owner is giving all of their attention to the new dog and not balancing the attention and affection with both dogs. If you can, observe how the owners give the dogs attention and how the dogs respond. Make sure both dogs are enjoying the attention offered. 57

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When looking for solutions, you will need to decide what needs to be changed to help resolve the underlying cause of the original dog’s house training regression. Many factors can play into the solution. You may want to make sure the original household dog isn’t needing some security training or structure, priming the dog for a regression incident. Factors that can cause regression issues include: • The dog was never correctly socialized and feels insecure. • The dog is sensitive and overreacts to any kind of negativity, and the owners are too harsh with their corrections. • The dog is not well trained and doesn’t respect the owner. If training of the original dog is scant, then training the dog on basic obedience using positive techniques can help. Dogs often find security in the structure training offers, and training using positive techniques can set up or re-establish a healthy relationship between dog and owner. Both the new dog and the existing household dog can be taught at the same time. Good skills to work on include sit, sit-stays with a higher distraction such as tossing food or toys, down, and down-stays. I also like dogs to learn “get it” and “leave it” cues, since this gives the owner more control. This kind of training helps the dog see the owner as a reliable leader, thus making the dog feel more secure, which can help reduce stress. Removing the stress with some dogs will alleviate the house training regression. Other times, the dog will also need the go-to method as well. Walking and play time with both dogs can also help ameliorate stress. With new members in the household, I like to set up structure and activities with the new and existing dog. For example, take both dogs for a walk. Practice basic obedience using positive techniques with both, having them sit and wait their turn for their treat. I’ve seen this kind of structure help both dogs relax more in the home and feel secure. That can help the dog get back into the normal routine of eliminating at the appropriate time and place.

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Problems when a new dog arrives Tater was the name Jeff picked out for the black and white, mediumsized dog his wife brought home from a rescue. The two new dog owners had done a good job choosing the dog to fit their lifestyle. This Jack Russell Terrier cross was an active dog looking for an active home, and both Jeff and Sheri were runners. However, even though the dog was supposed to be house trained, Tater had an accident fairly soon after he arrived in their home. Within a week, he had regressed to the point where he didn’t seem as if he’d ever been house trained. It isn’t unusual for a rescue dog to have house training problems when re-homed, and there are a multitude of reasons why. Dogs coming from rescues may feel somewhat traumatized by a variety of aspects of the re-homing experience: Some dogs come into the rescue from bad experiences in their previous home, some rescues are kennels, where there is a great deal noise and chaos that dogs find overwhelming, some dogs are timid and poorly socialized, making abrupt relocation particularly traumatic. These are a few of the numerous reasons a dog might experience trauma related to re-homing. If the dog has a stressful experience at the rescue, that may result in her feeling some uncertainty in a new home, and the dog may then become uncertain about eliminating outside at a new residence. Some dogs may feel stressed in a new home, making them need to “answer the call” more often. When the dog needs to go during a time the dog owner isn’t expecting the need, the owner may not recognize the dog’s cue, or the dog may not understand what door to go to. If the dog is used to a doggy door, he may not know how to signal his need to be let out. Rescue dogs who entered the shelter as insecure dogs offer extra challenges. Even if you put a dog outside as soon as you get home, he may not feel secure enough to wander around and find that ideal place to eliminate. Tater had several reasons for struggling to adjust to his new home. The two most prominent ones were that he was both sensitive and insecure. Sensitive dogs come with an assortment of issues. Typically, when dealing with a sensitive dog, most of your training and education is going to be with the dog owner, rather than the dog. Dog owners

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who are used to being able to tell a dog “no” with emphasis will find the sensitive dog reacts as if he were struck and not just spoken to. Owners with highly sensitive dogs will need to learn to train the dog how to do what they do want, instead of reprimanding the dog for what they don’t want. For people who are used to interacting with dogs more assertively, this change may be a challenge that takes time. While the owner works to change to milder interactions, the dog can sometimes become stressed, thus hampering house training. The dog may even begin to exhibit behaviors such as submissive peeing. One way to help get the house training on track is to have the owner accompany the dog outside several time a day for the first week after the dog arrives. Even if the dog doesn’t eliminate after walking the dog around, the dog owner can toss a treat, pet the dog and relax with the dog in the yard. This can help the dog in several ways. First, the dog learns what door to use when asking to go outside. Second, the dog can walk around the yard and begin to feel comfortable there. Finally, the walking can reduce stress. Walking with the dog will also begin the bonding process between dog and owner. As you may recall, walking can help to create a need for the dog to answer the call of nature, allowing the owner a chance to reward the dog for going in the right place. However, caution is needed with a sensitive dog, who will almost never enjoy high-pitched or loud tones of voices. Verbal praise is best kept calm, quiet and low key.

Insecurity Insecurity in a dog can have many causes. Some come from inadequate socialization when young or from the dog feeling threatened from harsh training techniques. Another issue may occur from the dog finding a rescue situation traumatizing. Insecurity is more common in shy, highly sensitive or reserved dogs, especially when these dogs are not worked through these issues. Dogs who show signs of insecurity, sensitivity or timidity often present house training problems, especially when getting settled into the home. This means keeping the dog’s environment and interactions subdued, especially when the home environment changes. Most people are very happy to see the new dog, and want to gush all

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over him. It should be explained to the new dog owner and any visitors that enthusiastic gushing might be too intense for the dog until he gets to know them better. Some dogs will feel more secure if they get a chance to chill out in a crate located in a quiet area when they first arrive. Dogs with a positive association with a crate can hole up in there, giving the dog a chance to get used to the new noises and whatever commotion the household brings. It is fine for the owner to give the dog a nice chew bone in the crate. That can help the dog feel good about his or her new home. I’ve had a couple of cases where a dog began to have house training problems when a new person spent one or more nights in the home. In one case, the person was an overnight guest, and the family dog left a pile outside the guest bedroom door. The other case was with an older child who was adopted into the family. Again, the dog left a pile of poop outside the bedroom door while the child was in the bedroom. Both dogs who did this were males. The first was a rescued mill dog who was only bonded with one member of the household. The other dog was very insecure by nature. Dogs who are only comfortable with one person in the home need this issue resolved. Better socializing the dog can help to resolve what we might think of as selective regression. There are a number of ways to help dogs learn to feel comfortable with other household members. One is to have other people feed the dog; hand feeding a meal is great, if the dog is willing. Having other family members walk the dog can also help the dog feel more secure. At first, it may be necessary to have the person the dog is comfortable with also walk with the person the dog is less sure about. After the dog shows comfort walking with both people, the primary person can hand over the leash to the person the dog was less comfortable with. Once the dog accepts this change, have the primary person begin to lag behind or walk ahead, depending on which the dog is able to better adjust to. Over time, the dog can learn to feel secure without the primary owner present.

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Changing the security and stability in dogs who show indications of insecurity-driven house training problems often takes several months. Until the core problem of insecurity in the dog is resolved, there are more immediate steps that the dog owner can employ. In the cases above, the first dog stopped having accidents when the owners blocked the dog’s access to the guest’s door using a doggy gate. If the new member of the household is there for the long term, it may be necessary to keep an eye on the dog. If the dog begins to go towards the area where he has eliminated before, the owner should call the dog away. When the dog comes, the owner should praise the dog and then put him outside for a short time. Sometimes, it helps if the owner gives the dog a treat when the dog is let back inside. Tossing a treat outside is done to help the dog make a positive association with being outside at a time when the dog literally planned on eliminating inside. Calling the dog away before he can eliminate inside the house can, for some, facilitate breaking the habit. If the dog owner can’t always watch the dog to make sure he doesn’t wander over to the area where accidents are occurring, the dog may need to be crated or tethered to the owner. Preventing the unwanted activity allows some dogs to settle down and stop leaving unwanted presents outside of bedroom doors. But it often takes several weeks of prevention to change this kind of behavior. Having the dog owner, the dog and the targeted person take a walk together can often help change the dog’s attitude toward what he seems to see as an unwanted intruder.

Adolescence Some dogs will develop house training problems during adolescence, even if they had no problems when they were puppies. Typically, this begins around 7 to 8 months of age, but can happen earlier or later. Often this issue is discovered when an owner comes home to items torn apart and a pile or two of poop in the house. This kind of scene can also be a result of separation anxiety, but one of the easiest ways to tell the difference is to set up a camera to watch the dog. Separation anxiety is accompanied by the dog acting stressed, which is most

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often displayed within the first hour of the owner’s departure. With a bored or wayward adolescent, the destruction is done with glee, and more often hours after the owner’s departure. My first go-to solution for adolescent regression is to crate the dog. I have heard of numerous mishaps with dogs under a year old left unsupervised, including dogs who died after chewing an electric cord, that lead me to recommend keeping dogs in a crate for at least the first year regardless of house training. However, if the owner doesn’t want to use a crate for some reason, or the dog has confinement issues, there are other ways to address this issue, discussed below.

Crates are valuable tools when house training adolescents.

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There are specific dos and don’ts when dealing with wayward adolescents who have house training issues. Don’t employ any kind of punishment to attempt to correct the situation. Do up the obedience training of the dog. While the dog may have been taught a few cues as a puppy, at this stage of adolescence, he may begin to intermittently refuse to comply to an owner’s command. This creates disrespect in the dog and can lead to other troublesome behavior issues. Some dogs with waning compliance issues will begin to act out in destructive ways when the owner is not at home, including house training regression. For that reason, it is useful to examine the relationship between the owner and the dog. Ask the dog owner to have the dog execute some basic commands such as sit and down. Watch to see how the dog responds. Does the dog’s interest begin to wane quickly, or does he begin to refuse, even with intermittent rewards? These are signals that the dog may need some additional training to correct these issues. Some dogs with compliance issues will begin to engage in “treat blackmail,” where the dog refuses to follow a command unless he is first shown a treat. Dogs who successfully use treat blackmail with an owner are undermining the leadership role of the owner. The dog owner must find ways to take back control of the treat as a reward, rather than the dog insisting on a treat being presented before complying. One way to begin changing this habit is to show the treat, but then ask for two behaviors before delivering the treat. The owner can then expand that to three behaviors. For dogs who are more tenacious about demanding a treat, there are more ways to deal with this issue in my book Training the Hard to Train Dog. It is important to realize that dogs who comply poorly to commands or exhibit treat blackmail need both situations resolved as part of the solution to the house training regression.

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NILF (nothing in life is free) can help some dog owners regain control of their dog. The first step to helping the dog owner re-establish control of the dog is to get the dog to consistently follow commands. A good principle to employ to address this is called “nothing in life is free,” also known as NILF or NILIF. There is a great deal of information available online about this program. Training sessions with the dog need to be kept short and slowly increased over time. By keeping the lessons short, you will not have issues with the dog’s attention span, which can shorten during adolescence. In some breeds, such as certain terriers, that attention span needs to be developed in the first place. The goal is to make sure the dog complies with all commands when asked. If the training sessions are too long at first, the dog may lose interest. Often it works well to ask for a few commands, then play with the dog as a reward, after which you ask for another command or two. A short walk in between short training sessions can also help train the dog to pay attention for longer periods of time. For some dogs, meal time is a good time to have the owner train 65

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the dog, and in particular it can be a good time to have the owner lengthen the amount of time the dog learns to hold a stay. This is done by having the dog sit and stay, then after a about 15 seconds, release the dog. Once the dog begins to wait well at this time, have the dog wait for 30 seconds. Soon you can get the dog to learn to wait for several minutes. Boredom is another consideration with adolescent dogs who are having house training regression issues. For some dogs, the owner will need to increase the dog’s exercise. In addition, dog games can be employed to help thwart boredom. Some dog owners may find that taking the dog to a doggy daycare a few times a week helps. If the dog owner has a treadmill, the dog can be trained to walk on that for exercise. There are several ways to train a dog to walk on a treadmill. I illustrate one way in a YouTube video that is accessible through my website, peggyswager.com, under the YouTube videos tab. With some adolescent dogs, these strategies alone will be sufficient to solve the house training regression without any additional effort. If the dog continues to have issues, have the dog owner use the go-to method in the morning and the evening. By having the owner leash the dog and walk him outside for AM and PM potty time, you give the owner a chance to reward the dog for correct elimination. Crating the dog during the day will also be of great value. These steps, along with structured training, can help create changes in the adolescent dog’s behaviors, including the house training regression. It is critical to advise the owner that this process can take a month to six weeks. Sometimes a dog may show improvement during that time, then regress again. If there is an additional regression, the owner will need to accompany the dog outside for at least several more days to remind the dog of the appropriate behavior.

Onset of sexual maturity Sexual maturity in a dog typically arrives in small breeds around 5 to 9 months of age. However, some giant-breed dogs will not reach maturity until they are 18 to 24 months of age. Typically, most dogs are sexually mature by a year of age. For females, sexual maturity arrives with the first heat cycle. For males, behavioral changes occur,

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including the dog engaging in marking behaviors. For males, marking territory is not house training regression, but an activity that needs to be address if it occurs inside the house. Resolving male marking is discussed in detail in Chapter 8. When females approach their first heat cycle, they may begin to pee small amounts in the house. This can sometimes begin a couple of months before that first cycle. Since the amount of urine is smaller than normal, it is advised to have the dog owner ensure there is no medical issue, such as a urinary infection. Although some females will regress by peeing inside the house, others will also poop in the house. With female issues, you may need to employ britches or a diaper to prevent distribution of small urine spots in the house. Any urine discovered needs to be cleaned up thoroughly using an enzymatic cleaner. When dealing with pooping, the owners may need to keep the dog crated if they can’t keep an eye on her. Preventing the dog from engaging in the unwanted activity goes a long way toward correcting the behavior. This means that, when the dog is in the house, the owners must either be able to keep an eye on her, tether her to them, or crate her. This kind of regression is best dealt with using a combination of preventive techniques and patience. The issue, if handled correctly, often resolves after that first heat cycle. For dogs who still have issues after the end of the first heat cycle, the go-to method can be employed.

Separation anxiety House training issues resulting from separation anxiety are often not readily identified. For example, I had a dog owner explain her problem this way: She’d adopted a dog five years ago. Although she had gone on short trips since getting the dog, she had had no house training issues until she took a vacation. “The first one in five years, mind you,” she’d stated. “Well, the dog got jealous and is now vengefully pooping in the house.” The owner reported that the accidents didn’t happen every day, but did happen regularly.

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People may recognize that separation anxiety can cause destructive behaviors but be unaware that house soiling may result from the same issue. I explained to the owner that the dog was not being vengeful, but had developed mild separation anxiety. I also came to discover that this dog was somewhat insecure. The dog owner was actually feeding into the separation anxiety issues. Feeling guilty about leaving the dog, the woman began to gush over him more than ever before when she left for work and when she came home. I have observed that people making a big fuss over a dog during departures and arrivals can stress out a dog, and sometimes cause intermittent separation anxiety. The dog, feeling stressed by the owner’s unstable interactions, may not be able to hold his bowel movements as long during the day. Stress does that to most animals. The dog then needs to relieve himself before the owner arrives back home. I have run across a couple of male dogs who would lift their legs to urinate on furniture when left alone, but no other time. Yet another case of separation anxiety. If separation anxiety is causing the house training regression, then the solution is to address the separation anxiety. The first step is to change the way the owner interacts with the dog when leaving and returning to the house. Keeping the departure and arrival calm and low key has solved this issue in some dogs I’ve worked with. If the dog is insecure, teaching the owner better ways of interacting with

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the dog and how to build security in the dog becomes part of the solution. Those strategies are covered in the book Rescue Your Dog from Fear. With dogs who have become sensitized to a particular departure cue, more training is needed. Desensitizing the dog to those departure cues will help that part of the problem. If the dog doesn’t know how to settle down by himself after the owner leaves, then the dog can be taught the “I’ll Be Back” technique. Both working to desensitize leaving cues and the “I’ll Be Back” technique are found on the DVD Separation Anxiety, A Weekend Technique.

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4 House Training Regression in Dogs

House training regression is when a dog who is house trained, or almost house trained, regresses back to an untrained state. Sometimes when you are dealing with house training regression, knowing exactly why the dog has regressed is key. Other times you can just apply what I refer to as my go-to resolution and find success. So as a first step I would recommend you apply the go-to method and see what kinds of results you can achieve. Note that some of the causes of house training problems covered in Chapter 3 can be viewed as regression, especially adolescence and the onset of sexual maturity. If you suspect these are the causes involved in a particular case, refer back to Chapter 3 for suggestions about how to proceed.

Applying the go-to method Using the go-to method is often the first suggestion I make to a client whose dog is showing house training regression. However, I make some amendments to that technique when dealing with house training regression. This technique can help resolve house training regression even in dogs who were originally trained using harsh techniques. Part of what my go-to method does is to help reduce stress

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in the dog, because it utilizes routine. Routine has a calming effect on dogs. It is something they can count on, and as long as adversities are not included, most animals find security in routines. After all, a routine offers a known set of events, as opposed to the unknown, which may pose danger, and evoke fear and stress. Another reason my go-to method works is because it allows the owner to show the dog what is wanted and expected, rather than issuing aversive corrections when the dog isn’t doing something right. The technique helps train the owner as much as the dog, and some owners need behavior reforms before the house training regression is resolved. Yet another reason the go-to method works is the emphasis on walking the dog. Whether stress is an issue or the dog needs to develop a stronger bond with the owner, walks can help.

Walks can help relax a stressed dog and develop a stronger bond.

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To briefly review the process from Chapter 1, the dog owner is to take the dog out first thing in the morning, and walk the dog in a desired area for the dog to eliminate, then reward when the dog has success. This process is repeated a few times throughout the day, at consistent times of day. Remember, determining how often and when the dog needs to go out involves reviewing times and frequencies the dog was known to eliminate in the house. Associations with events such as a particular household member departing also need to be noted. At night, before the household retires, is the last time this should be done. With dogs who have regressed in their house training, this process requires some additional steps. First, how often the dog needs to be taken outside may need to be increased. For example, the owner may need to take the dog outside upon returning home from work, or at other times throughout the day, especially during times the dog may have issues. Crating can be employed to help keep the dog from needing to go in between retraining walks. As the dog’s issues begin to resolve, the owner can start to eliminate some of the extra trips outside until they are only doing a morning and evening trip. That should be followed by offering to let the dog go outside on his own. The owner must watch and make sure the dog eliminates before allowing the dog back inside. When dogs have regressed, they need to be encouraged to move beyond that regression. Unlike house training a dog for the first time, the process involves more than the dog simply understanding where to eliminate. The dog who has regressed needs to be encouraged, in order to overcome whatever caused the regression, until the correct behavior becomes a habit. After the dog has established a successful pattern for correct eliminations, the reward is faded. Another difference between this training and what was discussed in Chapter 1 is the amount of time to spend walking outside. Especially early in the process, the dog owner needs to allow for extra time walking so the dog can eliminate. They may need to schedule at least half an hour, especially for the AM and PM walks. If after a few days the dog is still having only intermittent success, the owner may need to schedule more walking time, perhaps up to one hour. Because it’s critical that both dog and owner are as comfortable as possible, even on a long walk, it’s a good idea to encourage them to acquire and

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use whatever gear they need to stay warm and dry: coats (for human and dog), hats, umbrellas and good walking shoes are a worthwhile investment toward house training success. Additional help for the dog can come in the form of additional walks by the owner. If the dog takes half an hour to eliminate outside, the owner may want to consider extending the walk by at least an extra ten or 15 minutes after the dog eliminates so the dog has a chance to relax in the company of the owner. It is hard for an owner to not convey some kind of disapproval about the house training regression. The extra walking after elimination can help mend fences and often will accelerate the house retraining process; too often dogs who regress have some kind of emotional connection to the issue. I like to explain to the owner they may need to add extra walking time after the dog eliminates for at least a week after the dog begins to have success in order to ensure that success continues. However, a week is just a general guideline, and sometimes I suggest more. I try and assess the dog’s relationship with the owner. When a strained dog-owner relationship is behind the regression, for example if there is stress in the dog due to harsh interactions with the owner, sometimes more than an extra week of walking can help forge a better relationship going forward.

Transitioning from walking the dog to letting the dog go outside on his own There are certain guideposts to look for to help determine when it is time to let the dog go outside on his own when working to resolve a regression. First, the dog owner needs to keep in mind how the dog acted before the regression. For example, before the regression, the dog held things all day and was put outside in the evening around 5 PM, then once again before retiring. After the regression, the dog often left a mess earlier in the day. During the work to reform the dog, the owner is taking the dog out more often. As things begin to change back to normal, where the dog is eliminating on the walk later in the day, the owner can begin to get rid of earlier walks. After the dog begins to eliminate with the walk right after an owner comes home, then the owner can switch to letting the dog out at the typical elimination time, and not escort the dog. The owner needs to make 73

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sure the dog eliminates while outside. As well, the owner can offer a treat when the dog comes inside for the first few times. After that the owner can offer approval and eliminate the treats.

Observing the dog for possible regression causes Although interviews with the dog’s owners are very useful, as well as learning the dog’s history with the family, his training and other behavioral concerns, I often get a lot of information by observing the dog when I enter the household. Below are three ways a dog may greet you in a household and what that greeting might tell you about the dog’s issues.

Situation 1 The dog holds back and is timid, or the dog comes forward with an arched backbone and a tucked tail. The dog also avoids eye contact. This dog is more likely to react poorly to changes or stress in the household. Another possible issue is that the dog can’t adjust to the dog owner’s style of interaction. Dogs who are more sensitive to reprimands sometimes encounter owners who don’t change their interactions to help the dog feel secure. Example: With Jeff and Tater (see Chapter 3), there were immediate issues when the dog first arrived in the house. However, more problems cropped up. When Tater was a year old, the family adopted a new dog. Not long after the new dog arrived, Tater snapped at her over a chew bone. Jeff yelled at Tater for snapping at the dog and Tater ran out of the room. When Jeff went to find Tater, he was on his dog bed, but had already peed on the bed. Jeff was quite upset about this, but remembering my coaching, decided to just clean it up. However, a few days later when Jeff came home from work, Tater was nearby when Jeff entered the house. Jeff looked at Tater, and the dog ran off. Jeff set his things down and went to look for Tater, only to find the dog had retreated to his bed and again peed on it. When Jeff asked me what was going on, I had a hunch. Sensitive dogs can be more reactive to emotions in people. If Jeff had come home a little angry due to traffic or some other trying aspect of his

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day at work, Tater may have picked up on Jeff ’s anger or negativity and reacted like he had when he had been yelled at. Just because a dog is sensitive to emotions or other stimuli doesn’t mean he won’t have behaviors that need to be corrected, such as showing aggression over a chew bone. A sensitive dog is all the more challenging when he is also insecure. Tater needed help with both building security and some desensitization around different stimuli. Complicating matters all the more was that Jeff had simply had many years scolding dogs when they did something wrong. In this kind of situation, changing the dog’s peeing habit means first changing the owner and dog relationship. Part of that can be accomplished through structured training using positive techniques, which coincidentally can help change other unwanted behaviors. Some of the training that helps change possessiveness in the dog begins with teaching leave it, drop it, and the long down-stay required before a dog can eat a meal or be given a chew bone that was set in front of him. For me, when working to resolve peeing issues such as Tater displayed, it helps me to first understand the underlying personality traits and the dog and owner interactions that may contribute to the problem.

Look for timid or fearful expressions in a dog. Fostering a sense of security with a timid or sensitive dog is often key in resolving house training regression issues. If you feel you are working with a dog who is highly sensitive, look to see if the dog 75

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is drawing comfort and security from the owner, or if the dog is uncomfortable in the household in general. Timid dogs who draw security from an owner are fine, as long as the dog isn’t too clingy. The clingy dog is more susceptible to separation anxiety. Conversely, dogs with a timid nature who have the right kind of security training will have less tendency toward separation anxiety or house training regressions in general. Often times when working with timid or sensitive dogs, you will need to work on the dog-owner relationship to solve house training issues. One factor that is key in helping the dog and owner relationship, especially in these kinds of dogs, is making sure the dog owner understands training proactively using positive techniques. The training can’t be scant either; a simple sit and down are not enough. Owners may need to be coached on how to correct a dog more positively. For example, when Jeff was angry that Tater snapped at the new dog over a chew bone, instead of yelling, Jeff could have grabbed a treat and called Tater away. In Jeff’s mind, yelling was the way to stop this unwanted behavior. After Tater left the chew bone alone, Jeff could have rewarded the dog and perhaps given Tater his own chew bone. That would have averted the dog peeing on his bedding. Dogs who react poorly to harsh verbal reprimands may begin to take up the habit of peeing on bedding such as Tater did. But keep in mind, it is imperative that the owner learn different ways to stop unwanted behavior as well as offer structure and a more positive relationship through training. Tone of voice is an often underutilized tool in dog training. However, when it comes to timid or sensitive dogs, this is more critical. Pay attention to how the dog reacts to the owner’s changes in tone of voice. Be aware, some dogs will be uncomfortable with both harsh tones as well as ones that are too chirpy or high-pitched. If the dog’s ears and tail lower when the owner is talking directly to him, or the dog quickly glances away or turns his head, this is often a sign the dog is not feeling secure in that interaction. These dogs can sometime become stressed over little things, and typically fixing those little things helps solve house training regressions. Once the causative issues with the dog’s security are resolved, if the dog’s regression doesn’t go away on its own, a good follow-up is to do the go-to method.

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Situation 2 The dog comes up and greets you in a friendly, checking-you-out fashion. However, the owners report the dog now has regression issues. As stated earlier, dogs who feel stressed can react in a variety of ways. Even if the dog greets you when you come inside the house, that doesn’t mean the dog isn’t stressed at other times. Stress will not only cause house training regression, but can also cause aggression. I worked with a dog who for years was well-behaved, then suddenly became aggressive as a result of stress. This particular dog greeted me at the door the way I expected a confident Jack Russell to. I grabbed a squeak toy to help befriend him further, but that didn’t entice him. That is not normal for a balanced Jack Russell. Although the owners had called me to solve his aggression issues, which occurred when he guarded a rug in the kitchen, the dog not playing made me ask, “What has changed in the household?” As it turned out, the dog’s aggression with the rug first began a month or two after the husband in the family deployed to Afghanistan. Although the husband had returned, the issue with the rug didn’t resolve, and in fact got worse. The dog now guarded the wife in the family from the husband. Complicating matters all the more was that they had punished the dog for his aggressive actions. This kind of issue didn’t accompany house training regression, but it could have. I have seen house training regression issues follow a similar pattern. For both situations, the solution is the same. I explained to the owners that punishment was driving parts of this problem. I didn’t criticize or lecture. I understood they didn’t know any other way to deal with this. I worked with the dog first to get him to stop guarding the rug in the kitchen. I also worked with both the dog and the owners to change their interactions into more positive ones. After the dog progressed in these areas, I worked with having the dog sit calmly on the couch and used a calming technique I call the “soothing touch” found in the book Rescue Your Dog from Fear. I was pleased to get positive results, and was able to have both the husband and wife sit with the dog in between them without the dog trying to guard the wife. By working

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to resolve the aggression issues with positive techniques, and working to calm the stress the dog felt, the problem resolved very quickly. This kind of situation can also occur with house training regressions when you identify and work to resolve the underlying issues.

Situation 3 The dog comes up in an assertive way and stares at you. You notice the dog isn’t very compliant to any of the owner’s commands. This kind of dog may be having house training regression because the dog needs to learn he isn’t in charge. Though it is often times tempting for dog owners, and some dog trainers, to tag this kind of issue as “the dog is dominant or alpha,” these broad labels typically give an inaccurate representation. There are a lot of reasons a dog will feel he is in charge. Often at the heart of the problem is the owner is interacting with the dog in a way that is a bad fit for the dog’s personality. For example, overindulgent owners don’t want Fido not to love them, so they won’t address most misbehavior. Some dogs with a pushy nature will blow off commands, and after awhile the dog may regress in house training. Male marking is a kind of regression that may happen when a dog who didn’t mark begins to mark in the house. Pushy dogs not only need thorough training, they often need to be reminded who is in charge. The nothing in life is free approach helps to accomplish that. The owners need to learn that the dog will love them if they are good leaders who insist the dog follow their guidance. These dogs will benefit from learning that they must earn food and even attention through compliance to commands. If the dog’s house training issues do not resolve from the behavior training alone, the owner can employ the go-to method. If marking is an issue, Chapter 8 covers how to reform that problem.

Case Study: Rocket’s story Rocket was about as cute as a dog could be. When Mark and his wife, Rochelle, purchased this little dog, they were told the pup was part Jack Russell Terrier and part Chihuahua. Rocket’s personality was just about as cute as he was. He was lovable and playful.

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Unfortunately, Rocket developed a problem. At about 5 months of age, Rocket regressed in his house training. Rocket was often left home during the day, and when his owners arrived home, they’d let him outside to relieve himself. While he had no problem running around the backyard and hiking his leg, he would wait until he was inside the house to poop. His owners tried everything. They’d crate him while they were gone during the day. They began to leave him out outside for longer periods of time. Sometimes that worked, but often it didn’t. For whatever reason, Rocket seemed determined to relieve himself in the house. Rocket’s case came to me in a unique way. My husband worked with Mark, and recommended Mark contact me to resolve this issue. My husband gave me a brief account of the issue from his conversation with Mark. Mark was scheduled to travel on business, and wanted to wait to deal with the problem when he got back. I scheduled an appointment for the week after Mark returned from business travel. However, before the day of our appointment arrived, Rochelle, who was expecting a baby in one month, was rushed to the hospital with complications. Mark, still overseas, scrambled to get a flight home. He asked me if I could go over and let Rocket out for that evening. Of course I agreed to help. But I also went prepared to work with Rocket on his problem of eliminating inside the house. I loaded a baggy with several small pieces of cooked steak, then grabbed my warmest jacket and drove 25 miles to their house. I used their hidden key to get inside and was glad that, although it was past 7 PM, Rocket hadn’t had an accident in his crate. I immediately let him outside, and went into the back yard with him. Rocket looked relieved as he hiked a leg on a tree. Afterwards, he ran to the back door and waited. But, I was not about to let him in. I walked over to the other end of the yard and called him to me. I coaxed him to walk with me along the fence, far away from that back door. Rocket walked with me for a little while, but then he ran back to the back door and brushed his paw on it, wanting inside. He still hadn’t gone poop.

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I again tried to coax him to me for a walk, knowing full well that exercise would help to stimulate him to do his business. Rocket went back to the door and insisted he be let inside. I picked up a toy and tossed it, hoping to get him to play. This little guy loved to play with that toy, and he joined in for about ten minutes. Unfortunately, he again returned to the door. He barked to get inside. By now, we’d been outside more than half an hour. It was a cold February night and I also wanted to go inside. But first, Rocket had to do his business. I pulled a leash from my pocket and we began to walk along the far fence. I told him in a calm voice that all he needed to do was relieve himself outside, and that if it took all night, we’d stay here until he did. The talk was more for me than him.

This is a picture of Rocket when he was 12 years old. Resolving his house training issues allowed him to stay in a forever home. Finally, after just short of an hour outside, Rocket could hold it no more. He did his business. The moment he was done, I told him “good dog, good potty,” and shoved a piece of steak towards his mouth. He ate it, so I gave him three more little pieces of steak. Then, we went inside the house. 80

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The baby was born early, but both mom and baby were fine. Mark got home from the hospital in time to take care of Rocket the next morning. As for Rocket, I told his owners how to continue his training and warned them to allow what time Rocket needed, even if they had to be outside with him for an hour. I also told them to treat and praise his success. After doing this for about a week, Rocket got over his house training regression. Thus ended the first part of Rocket’s journey towards becoming a well-adjusted pet. However, Rocket was a dog prone to issues with house training. You will learn about how another issue arose with him in the chapter on submissive peeing. One circumstance that may not be as evident is a dog becoming stressed due to heath issues in a household member. What first alerted me to this kind of situation was many years ago when I attended a seminar on dogs used in hospice. The speaker explained that some dogs gravitate towards people who are close to death, while others will not enter a patient’s room when death is too near. Of course, the speaker stated she knew to never try and force the dog to go in. Her statement about how dogs differ in regard to people’s health was the first time I considered that dogs may react to our physical wellbeing. I’ve always suspected that Rocket detected a health issue in Rochelle and sensed something was not right with the pregnancy. He didn’t have issues with her pregnancy at first, but rather seemed to develop his regression before it was discovered that the baby had become distressed to the point where the infant needed to be delivered early. When it comes to working with house training regression, I am watchful for different reasons the dog may have regressed, including possible medical issue in their owners.

Summary House training regression can have a lot of different causes. Some are easy to detect, such as a new rescue who is not adjusting to the adoptive home, the dog coming into that first heat cycle or struggling with adolescence. Sometimes the problem is that the dog has developed separation anxiety. Even with situations caused by stresses, where you may not know exactly what caused the regression, by using my go-to method you can often find success.

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5 Fear-Based House Training Issues

Dog owners can experience challenges with house training efforts from dogs who come to their home in a highly fearful state. There are many reason rescue dogs have fear issues in a new home. Some dogs find the rescue process, from surrender to time in a facility to placement, traumatizing. Some dogs are surrendered to a rescue due to unresolved fear issues. One category of rescue dogs who often present challenges to house training efforts are rescued mill dogs. Many mill dogs have never had the opportunity to eliminate anywhere except inside a cage. Making these dogs all the more challenging is the fact that some are afraid to leave the house and are afraid of people. Owners who adopt a dog may find they need to resolve fear issues before the dog can have house training success in the new home. Dogs with fear issues, including and especially mill dogs, are the kind most likely to require a consultation with a dog trainer in order to achieve house training success.

Helping rescue dogs acclimate to a new home When working with someone who just adopted a dog, I recommend the owner use the go-to method described in Chapter 1. This can help many dogs transition into a new home, including in regard to successful house training habits. I encourage the owner to take the

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dog out several times a day in those first few days. This has several advantages. The walking can allow the dog to more quickly relax, thus lowering the dog’s fear level. Since the owner will be walking the dog in the same place several times a day, this allows the dog to acclimate to that area and learn that it is a safe place to be. In addition, walking together can help the dog bond to the new owner, again adding to the dog’s sense of security. The owner having a chance to reward the dog for success provides the dog and owner a way to begin their interactions in a positive way. Another advantage is that the dog learns what door he or she needs to go to when asking to go outside.

Stress-related accidents Sometimes the dog has accidents in between the times he is taken out on a leash and walked. This can happen for a few reasons. One is that the new dog is feeling stressed inside the new home. Stress can create a need to go more often. Another is that the dog, when first walked outside, may not feel secure in that area, resulting in the dog not eliminating at that time. When you arrive at a client’s house, be sure to evaluate how the new dog is reacting in the home. If the dog is timid, then work may needed to help the dog feel more secure before he can become reliable in the house.

Cueing miscommunication Another reason a dog may have accidents in a new home is that the dog is used to giving one kind of cue to go outside, and the new owner is used to seeing another kind of cue. I knew of a dog who had a very subtle cue. When the dog wanted to go out, she would sit nearby and stare at her owner. She never whined or barked, nor did she paw at the owner or door. If the owner glanced at her, the dog would quietly get up and walk toward the door. However, if the owner didn’t happen to glanced toward the dog or realize the dog was getting up to have the owner follow to the door, the owner missed the cue.

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Some dogs have very subtle cues that dog owners may miss. Ask your clients how the dog cues them when she wants to go outside. If the client responds that the dog has never barked once or scratched at the door, then you may have a hint that the problem is a result of the dog owner expecting one kind of a cue and the dog giving another. Dogs can be trained to offer cues to go outside. One popular way is to train the dog to use a bell hanging on the door as a way to cue the owner. The owner can buy a doorbell kit that comes with instructions for training.

Issues with doggy doors The presence or absence of doggy doors in a new home can present several problems. For example, if the dog is used to a doggy door, but isn’t successfully using the one in the new house, the dog may 84

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be afraid of using a different door than he is accustomed to. For this situation, it can help to retrain the dog as if he has never used a doggy door. Dogs who are used to doggy doors, but now live in a home without them, can have accidents. Part of the problem is that the dog has never learned to eliminate on a schedule. Instead, the dog simply heads out the doggy door whenever he has an urge and comes back in afterwards. This also means the dog has never needed to cue an owner to be let outside. To help with this issue, consider using a crate. By crating the dog, you can teach him to eliminate on a schedule. That, along with teaching the dog how to cue to go outside, can help get him on an elimination schedule that works with the owner’s time schedule. If the dog is afraid of the crate, tethering the dog may help. In Chapter 2 you will find information on resolving issues with dogs who hate the crate.

Dogs with a history of using doggy doors are often not used to eliminating on a schedule.

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When fearfulness is the greatest inhibiting factor Up to now, we’ve examined house training issues relating to a dog feeling insecure or stressed in a new household. However, with some dogs, their overall level of fear is the inhibiting factor to establishing successful house training (see more on this subject in Chapter 6). That has been the case with some mill dogs I’ve worked with, and was also the case with a dog named Szyszka.

Case Study: Szyszka…the bed is safe, but… Szyszka, who looked to be at least part Anatolian Shepherd, was given a tranquilizer, shoved in a van, then driven over 24 hours to a rescue where Hanna met and adopted her. Once she got to Hanna’s home, no one had to tell this highly fearful dog to find a sanctuary. As soon as she was shown her bed in a back room, Szyszka jumped up there and didn’t want to move. She was also afraid to go outside. When alone, Szyszka did jump off to poop and pee on a nearby rug, but she wouldn’t leave for any other reason. Hanna did hand feed Szyszka while she was on the bed, but quickly noticed the dog was afraid of an arm stretched towards her. Fortunately for Szyszka, she was adopted by someone who was willing to put in the time and who had the patience to work with her. Hanna also didn’t get upset about the soiled rug. She just washed it and set it back in place. Although Szyszka was willing to accept some high-value treats from Hanna’s hand, for the first few days the dog didn’t eat much. Fear can lead some dogs to not want to eat. Even though Hanna had worked with fearful dogs before, she was not sure how to get Szyszka to make progress.

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Fearfulness was a barrier for Szyszka’s house training success. Hanna contacted me to help her and Szyszka. I had Hanna do the soothing touch with Szyszka. This technique is designed to help animal to relax, thus making them feel less fearful. This wasn’t generating the progress we would have liked to see, so I had Hanna add some other techniques.

Why the soothing touch may not seem to work for some people

I learned how to use touch many years ago and had a multitude of fearful horses to practice the technique on and hone my skills. I’ve noticed when teaching this technique to my clients that some of them have more of a knack for it than others. One of the keys to getting this to work is teaching yourself to feel the dog’s response to the touch. I’ve also run across a dog or two who responded less quickly than others. One dog, after I worked with him for an hour, hardly seemed

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to make much progress. However, in the next consultation, I made headway with the dog. When it comes to using this technique, each dog and client is unique. It is best to have a handful of techniques at your disposal so that you can find one that best fits the dog and owner you are working with.

The value of getting a dog to move forward I’ve observed that getting a fearful animal to move forward helps to dispel fearfulness. I found some research which appears to support this idea. In Steven R. Lindsay’s book Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, page 185, he cites Schneirla (1965) who proposed that “approach-withdrawal patterns are the fundamental organizing components regulating animal behavior and emotional development.” What I have noticed when working with fear-based behavior is that if I can get an animal to move forward, the animal becomes less fearful. If I allow the animal to withdraw and stay in that state, the animal often becomes more fearful about the situation. I explained to Hanna that when she offered Szyszka a high-value treat, it was a good idea to let her sniff that treat, then try and get her to move forward toward that treat. The goal was to trigger a positive emotional response in Szyszka when working with her new owner. You may at times encounter a dog who is too overcome by fear to move forward. In that case, you need to begin at a place where you can have success, and work forward from there. One way may be to simply drop the treat and calmly walk away. The next step would then be to wait until the dog gives you eye contact, then drop the treat. By asking for a little more each time, you can sometimes find the dog breaks through. The key is to learn to watch for a bit of relaxation in the dog, or more attentiveness, as well as positive anticipation when offering something like food, before moving on to asking for more trust from the dog. If I go further than the animal can go at any point, and the dog becomes panicked or retreats, I back up a step or two and re-establish a pattern of success before working to move forward again. I would probably offer a few calming signals (see below). Then, I would quietly get up and move away, thus reinforcing the act of calming down. 88

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Using calming signals Another thing I wanted Hanna to do was to offer Szyszka calming signals. This can help with dogs who seem to be uncertain about encouragement when it comes to doing things like eating a treat, moving forward or interacting in general. I told Hanna to wait until her dog ventured a look toward her, then give a yawn at the dog. A yawn is one of my favorite calming signals to use.

The components of a really good yawn

“Calming signal” is a term introduced by Turid Rugaas in her book On Talking Term with Dogs: Calming Signals. Rugaas recognized certain communications that dogs displayed between each other that allowed for more calm interactions. It is highly valuable for dog trainers to learn and understand these signals, which allow us to decipher stress levels in dogs, and to pick up on cues when a dog has become uncertain about our interaction at that moment. For example, if a dog turns his head away from me as I approach, he is telling me to stop moving my hand forward. When I back off a bit, he will usually take a moment to relax which allows me to continue. Had I not understood the dog’s signal, my continuing without the pause may have created an adverse reaction in the dog. Another important thing for dog trainers to learn is that calming signals can be a two-way form of communication. What that means is you can use calming signals to encourage a tense dog to relax. In Szyszka’s situation, she was way too tense for Hanna to be able to interact with her. So what I had Hanna do was tell the dog that things were okay in the hope that Szyszka could relax. I instructed Hanna to use a signal that communicated on the dog’s level: a widemouthed yawn. In preparation to giving this calming signal, it is best to drop your shoulders and relax a little yourself. Those actions provided a visual cue to the dog, as well as making your demeanor calmer. Next, slow your breathing and relax

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mentally. Don’t make direct eye contact with the dog, but instead open your mouth wide for the yawn. While executing the yawn, turn your head sideways. The yawn ends with your head settled into another kind of calming signal, the half head-turn. It is fine to hold this for a moment, then peek and see how the dog is responding. It is also fine to repeat this signal a few times. Don’t be surprised if the dog yawns back, which is a good sign. In our next conversation Hanna reported, “I think we are definitely on the right track.” Hanna had used the yawn when she wanted Szyszka to feel more comfortable and when she was encouraging the dog to move forward for a treat. Although Szyszka was still very scared and watched Hanna carefully, doing the yawn helped her relax a little. Then Hanna remarked, “When I did the yawn as you described, I felt I was getting relaxed myself.” Hanna also mentioned she was still using the soothing touch as well.

A breakthrough Two days later came another report: “My son came from Poland last night, and today we went out on the deck. Szyszka came out as well. It took her several tries but she went out.” The next day the report was, “Szyszka has been coming out on the deck by herself during the day. She also went to the bathroom while outside. She is still very afraid when I enter the room, but I hope that it will eventually pass. It has only been a week since she arrived in my house and I think we made huge progress.”

A summary of what worked for Szyszka • Calming signals: This communicates to the dog using language the dog understands that you have peaceful intentions. • Soothing touch: This can teach a dog to relax around you. It works best if the dog learns to relax when touched anywhere on her body.

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Using the soothing touch can help reduce fearfulness in the dog. • Moving forward: Getting an uncertain dog to move forward helps dispel fear. In addition, the use of a treat helps create a positive association with the owner.

Why rescued mill dogs are more challenging Mill dogs can come with a variety of backgrounds. According to the National Mill Dog Rescue website, the most typical rescued mill dog is older, often around 7 years old. These dogs were not socialized either as puppies or at any time during their lives. Many of their interactions with humans were negative, resulting in the dog feeling fearful of people. Some are abused. Many mill dogs lived in chronic states of fear. Smaller-sized mill dogs are typically kept in a crate with several other dogs. Crates are often stacked, which means feces and urine from the higher crates go through the wire cage bottom onto the occupants below. Mill dogs can come with a broad range of challenges. Dogs who live caked in feces and urine often lose touch with their natural instinct to keep their dens clean. Some of these dogs have never had the experience of walking on dirt, grass or many of the surfaces that 91

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are so common in our houses. It is not unusual for a mill dog to balk at these surfaces. Depending on the level of fear in the dog, and the extent of the abuse, mill dogs may need a lot of work to acclimate to a home environment and get comfortable interacting with people. That is often necessary before successful house training can be achieved. When it comes to rescued mill dogs, the average dog owner may not realize how unfamiliar their new dog is with a home environment. In some cases, the dog is so uncertain inside a house that if he is turned loose in the living room, he will become totally stressed. It isn’t hard to imagine what causes stress in these dogs: It is likely quite variable depending on a dog’s particular negative experiences and lack of socialization before adoption. At a minimum, it is extremely challenging for a mill dog to find himself in such an unfamiliar place. I’ve already talked about some of the challenges stress creates when house training rescue dogs. However, more typical rescue dogs usually have some experience living inside a home and will not experience the same level of sensory overload. With mill dogs who are experiencing sensory overload in a new home environment, the first order of business is to work to resolve the dog’s discomfort inside the house. Sensory overload often presents as the dog showing a great deal of stress, such as panting for long periods of time. Some mill dogs will try to escape the overload by hiding in quiet, confined areas, such as under a bed or behind a couch. If the dog has not spent much time outside of a crate, he will need to be acclimated to the experience in order to feel secure when not crated.

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Otis was so stressed when outside of his crate he couldn’t quit panting, even after an hour. It is important to keep in mind that the dog’s sensory system needs time to adjust to all the new stimuli inside the house. That often means you need to explain to the new owner that, even though they picture themselves as having freed the dog from his old and cruel life spent mostly inside a crate, the owner may find the place the dog feels the safest is inside a crate. That is because the crate is a place where these dogs have learned they will survive even when they are afraid. So be prepared to explain to the owner that, before they can free the dog physically, they must free the dog mentally. This means finding ways to work within the dog’s limits of security, at least until that security can be expanded. With that understanding in mind, you will probably find that each dog’s needs vary, necessitating some tweaking of your technique as you work to resolve the fear issue. Until you solve the fear issue, house training may not be accomplished. Below are a few case studies illustrating different solutions for specific rescued mill dogs. 93

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Case Study: Emma This email was sent around to mill dog fosters: “Emma, a Cocker Spaniel, will be returned to the kennel in a few days. Her owner adopted her six months ago and has had no luck with her rehab. Emma is still very timid and has many house training accidents. Her owner says she had made almost no progress since she was adopted.”

Emma finally became confident enough to stand in front of the couch she typically hid behind. Popular breeds like Cocker Spaniels are often quickly adopted from mill dog rescues. Unfortunately, too often dog owners don’t understand the implications of fear issues in dogs. Fearful dogs need the right kind of handling to learn to overcome their insecurities so they can more readily acclimate to a home. Instead of helping this dog, her owners did things that frightened her all the more. For example, they allowed their young child to rush up to hug the dog, increasing the dog’s fear. Although some dogs wouldn’t mind this, many mill 94

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dogs are not used to people, and rushing up and hugging can come across as a threat. The rescue wanted to make sure this dog would be successfully placed with the next adoption, so upon Emma’s return to the rescue kennels, she was assigned to an experienced foster home. Laurel West had helped many rescued mill dogs to acclimate to a regular home, helping to make the dogs more adoptable. She had some canine assistance from her two terriers, who helped by example to show the mill dogs they didn’t need to be timid around people. The terriers also illustrated to the new dogs how to go outside through a doggy door to answer the call of nature. Unfortunately, Laurel found Emma more of a challenge than other mill dogs. Emma was too afraid of going outside of the house, even at night when Laurel had noted other mill dogs would venture out. Some mill dogs have been raised living in so much terror during the day that they tend to shut down for most of that time. At night, when the breeding facility is quieter and the humans are not around, the dogs can relax. Emma only wanted to hide away inside the house. Laurel had had other mill dogs who would try and hide this way, and she’d learned how to block access to spaces under the bed and behind the couch. She also tried to get Emma to buddy up with another dog who was more confident. Unfortunately, Emma remained too stressed, at one point becoming so agitated that she peed and pooped all over a couch when Laurel tried to coax her to go outside to go potty. To help Emma overcome the stress she experienced inside the house, I told Laurel what I’d done for a dog named Otis who had a similar issue. That process is explained in detail in the book Rescue Your Dog from Fear. I explained that, to stop the dog from hiding behind the couch, she needed to do more than block the dog’s access. Laurel needed to find ways to provide Emma with a feeling of security in areas in the house other than behind that couch. That meant that, even though the goal was for Emma not to hide behind couches, if she felt safe in that location, then she needed to be allowed some time in that location until she felt more secure.

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The tie-out technique allows the dog to incrementally adjust to a new area. Laurel had used the tie-out techniques that worked for Otis. With the tie-out technique, the dog is allowed to adjust incrementally to a new area while tethered to restrict movement. To use this technique, select a quiet, secluded area. As the dog becomes comfortable in that area, the dog is moved to a less secluded area. The process uses systematic desensitization to allow the dog to become comfortable in different areas of the house. Over time, dogs typically relax about all areas in the home. Once Emma was feeling secure enough to not hide behind the couch, I recommended Laurel use the soothing touch to help Emma learn to feel more secure outside of the house. To accomplish this, Laurel was to first do the soothing touch inside the house in a quiet and secure area to get Emma to learn how to relax with the technique. Although many dogs like Emma tense when touched, by working to get her to relax through continued touch, she was able to overcome that fear. Once Emma relaxed, Laurel could take her outside and work on getting her to relax using the soothing touch in a new, more stressful location. When beginning to encourage Emma to feel more secure outside, I instructed Laurel to work with her using touch; however, as soon as Emma relaxed a little, Laurel was to take her back inside. Once

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inside, preferably in an area where Emma had learned to relax with the touch before going outside, I told Laurel to again use the touch to get Emma to relax even more. If the training session went well, meaning Emma relaxed in about five minutes or less, and succeeded in relaxing even more when returning inside, the process could be repeated in a few hours. If Emma failed to relax after 15 minutes, or needed help to relax when back inside, then Laurel was not to repeat the process until the next day. As Emma had success with relaxing outside, the time outside could be incrementally increased. Laurel was great about executing this technique. She even made a modification specific to Emma’s behavior: Emma had a tendency to try and run off when she got outside. Laurel used a leash when taking her out, and when Emma tried to bolt, Laurel held on to the leash until Emma settled down. Once Emma’s panic subsided, Laurel used touch to help settle her further. Soon Laurel was able praise Emma’s success. As is true with many mill dogs, Emma did not see praise from Laurel as a positive at first. When Emma began responding positively to praise, it was clear she was feeling more comfortable with Laurel. When first working with rescued mill dogs who are highly fearful, remind owners and fosters that calming tones are best, and make sure they understand that it takes time for a fearful dog to enjoy praise. As a result of Laurel’s training, Emma became more confident. Then one day, when outside, Emma romped around in the backyard as if it was a great place to be. As Laurel described the situation: “Such progress. Tail up. We run. We play.” With Emma becoming secure about being outside, she was able to become reliably house trained. But before she could make progress in that department, her fear of the world both inside and outside of the house needed to be resolved.

Using systematic desensitization

Emma’s story offers one way to acclimate a dog to feeling comfortable about going outside. Szyszka’s story provides another. Yet another way to approach this situation is with systematic desensitization. You can use a similar pattern to the one I described in Chapter 2 for dogs who hate their

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crate. By taking a dog just outside the door, and working to get the dog to settle down, then returning back inside once the dog is less frightened, you can slowly work up to going farther away from the house. Once the dog becomes less insecure, often the client can begin to walk the dog outside, and at this point they may begin to have success with house training the dog outside. Some clients have found they need to sit quietly outside for a long time, perhaps reading a book, before the dog settles down enough to learn to accept being outside. No matter what method you employ, it is important to get a dog to feel secure in the yard before the dog is expected to begin to eliminate outside.

Case Study: Otis and Albert, two challenging mill dogs Otis and Albert I first met Otis at a mill dog rescue. He was in a cage by himself with a sign on it that said “I bite.” He was also very reactive toward the goings on in the kennel, making him less likely to calm down when interacting with people. I’d worked with enough abused horses and highly fearful animals to know the difference between fear aggression that stemmed from a highly fearful nature and animals who were fearful because of abuse. Otis was fearful because of abuse. I decided to take on this dog, who had not shown improvement in the year at the rescue despite efforts from staff. It may come as a surprise, but one of the first things I wanted to work on with Otis was house training.

A recommendation from Dr. Dunbar At an Ian Dunbar lecture, I remember him stating that he felt rescue dogs would greatly benefit from having areas in a kennel with dirt where a dog could relieve himself. The idea was to give the dog encouragement to eliminate in the right place or to help the dog retain good house training habits. Most kennels encourage dogs to randomly leave their eliminations all over a concrete floor.

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With Dr. Dunbar’s recommendations in mind, I borrowed a very large cage that I set up with a bed at the very back and a box of dirt at the front. What I liked about this setup was that it allowed Otis to sleep in one area, eat nearby, and eliminate in a specific area in which I had placed dirt from outside. The goal was to allow Otis a chance to learn to use soil as a place to eliminate, even though he had spent his first three years in a cage caked in filth, followed by a year in a concrete kennel where it didn’t matter where he eliminated.

Arriving at my house When I went to pick up Otis, he was no longer kenneled alone. The staff had moved in a Chihuahua named Albert. Both dogs were fear biters from the same mill dog breeding facility and had lived at the rescue for a year. As it turned out, several dogs from that facility had come in together and all were fear biters. All the others were adopted over time. However, no one wanted to adopt these two because their biting issues were more extreme. As it turned out there were advantages and disadvantages to me being talked into taking Albert as well as Otis. When these two extremely fearful dogs arrived at my house, I put them both into the large cage, which I later called their doggy RV, as discussed in Chapter 2. The cage was located in a quiet area in the house where I allowed them a few days to acclimate to the noises and smells of a home. Since these dogs had each other as companions, both were less likely to suffer from isolation stress, which would compound the challenges of either dog adjusting to a new environment. I did little more than feed, water and remove the soiled dirt from the elimination area for the first few days. I was delighted to see that both were willing to use the box with the outside soil.

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Otis and Albert’s doggy RV to begin training them about keeping their den area clean.

The components of a doggy RV

A doggy RV is like a regular human RV in many ways. Inside the doggy RV, the dogs can eat, drink and go to the bathroom. With my doggy RV, I used a large enough cage that I could put a restroom area inside. My restroom area, or potty box, was actually the bottom of a crate that measured about 14 inches by 21 inches. The sides were several inches tall, allowing Albert and Otis to hike their legs when inside, thus keeping the rest of the crate area free of pee. Along with the restroom area, there was an area to set the food dishes. There was also room to put down a small bed for the dogs to sleep on.

Putting the dogs out in the mornings By the end of the first week, I was putting the dogs outside in a small pen. Unlike some fearful dogs, these two were not afraid of being

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outside. Instead, they seemed to come alive and even play. They also eliminated out there. Unfortunately, getting them outside was not easy. Neither dog had any experience with a collar and leash, and they clearly were afraid of being handled. In fact, any time I got close to Otis, he would completely shut down, adopting what I have nicknamed “the mill dog prayer” posture, a behavior that involves a dog closing his eyes, tipping his head downward and arching his backbone. Despite not wanting to cause undue stress, I had to pick up each one individually and carry them out to allow them time outdoors, which was key to my house training strategy. Since I wasn’t always sure what triggered a biting episode, at least not at that time, in the beginning I wore welding gloves to pick them up. This was a technique passed along by the mill dog rescue organization, and although bites through the gloves could hurt, they wouldn’t break the skin. I was always careful to be calm and quiet as I worked to pick them up, and I never chased or cornered them, in an effort to minimize the stress of these interactions as much as possible.

Otis felt safe in this outside pen because he had Albert with him. Inside alone was when he became too stressed.

Quirky fears of mill dogs Mill dogs can come with a host of fears, even though most these dogs aren’t born having a fearful nature. An extreme lack socialization is to blame. In addition to never seeing the inside a home, the dogs aren’t allowed to spend time around a variety people and other pets.

of of of of

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Adding to the typical mill dog fears is the fact that they live in a fearevoking environment and don’t learn how to cope with frightening stimuli. Once the dog becomes overwhelmed with fear, the flight or fight response kicks in. If people are overwhelming them, they can flail or bite. If other things are overwhelming them, since they can’t physically flee the cage, the dog often mentally flees by shutting down into the mill dog prayer. This helps the dog shut out whatever is too frightening to deal with. Unfortunately, that stimulus may be the dog owner’s attempt to interact with the dog.

Both Otis and Albert displayed what I call the mill dog prayer when feeling overwhelmed with stress. Otis and Albert both would shut down at times. Comparing their behavior to that of other animals I’d worked with who had known physical abuse histories, it was easy for me to conclude that both been physically abused in the mill dog breeding facility. In an effort to defend themselves, they both had resorted to biting at times. The dogs had different journeys in overcoming their fears, but in both cases the journeys got them over their fear biting and also facilitated their house training.

Sometimes using treats works, but not always Albert could be lured with a treat, and he quickly learned a positive association with the come command. That allowed him to learn to go outside by running through the house to the outside pen without 102

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my having to try and pick him up. This was of value because he was learning to go outside to eliminate long before he quit trying to bite people, and long before he got over the fear of being picked up. Otis could not be lured with a treat. For a long time, he was too afraid to eat a treat when we offered it to him. He’d often shut down when we held a treat towards him. If we tried to touch him, he’d also shut down by bowing his head and closing his eyes, shutting out what made him uncomfortable. If we forced interactions with him there was a risk that our actions would trigger a biting episode.

Albert was cooperative when I used a treat to lure him. Another problem Otis had was extreme fear of smooth surfaces in the house, and he was frightened of going over or across a threshold such as a doorway. Neither of these issues is unusual to find in mill dogs. Fortunately, Albert didn’t have fear of either the linoleum or the threshold. To get Otis outside, I’d open up the cage and call Albert to “come, come, come” using a treat at first to lure him outside. Otis would follow, even if it meant going over a patch of linoleum and a threshold. It appeared being left alone was more frightening than dealing with those two issues. 103

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Unfortunately, there came a time when their dependence on each other became more of a disadvantage than an advantage, because they were developing separation anxiety if one was removed from the cage and the other one left behind. For that reason, I separated the dogs into two different areas in the house. This created a renewed issue with thresholds for Otis when we began to take him out a different door to a different outside pen. It didn’t seem to matter to Otis that the new door and threshold were identical to the one he’d learned to follow Albert over. When working with mill dog owners, it is important to explain that these dogs don’t have enough of a variety of experience (due to an extreme lack of socialization when young) to necessarily associate similar things when they are in different locations. That was the issue with Otis. By the time we separated the two dogs, Otis had learned to trust us enough to be lured with a treat. But that didn’t matter to him when it came to that door threshold in a different location. No amount of coaxing or treats would get him over that threshold. Finally, I resorted to what worked before. I found a small dog who Otis loved to play with. I had Otis follow that dog over the second threshold several times. That did the trick.

Albert was cooperative when using a treat to lure him.

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Otis came close enough to the threshold of the house to eat a treat.

Then he’d back off and bark. Treats never did lure him inside.

Working to train without the go-to method Neither Albert nor Otis were trained using the go-to method, since for a long time, offering a treat had to be done cautiously for Albert, and wouldn’t work at all for Otis. Instead, the focus was to offer the dog the opportunity to go outside to answer the call of nature. The 105

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dogs were put out first thing in the morning and any messes in their potty box were cleaned up. Doing this religiously worked for Albert. Soon there were no messes in the crate in the morning. At that time, I began to let him out to wander in the living room and kitchen area. I did block off access down the hall leading to the bedrooms, which allowed me to more easily keep an eye on him, since tethering wasn’t an option. I also had a belly band on him at that time due to his marking issues, which are covered in Chapter 6. To help encourage Albert’s house training success, I made sure when he was wandering in the house to keep a close eye on him. If he sniffed around or otherwise looked suspicious to me, I’d say “outside” and put him out. I would peek through a window to see if he did more than hike his leg. If he eliminated outside, when he came back in, I would tell him he was a good boy. This was effective because he liked praise.

Sneaking down the hall Albert became good about keeping my living room and kitchen area free of droppings, so I took down the barrier to the hallway and the rest of the house. What I discovered was that sometimes Albert would sneak down the hall and eliminate in a far-off room. This kind of issue isn’t atypical, especially for younger dogs who need time to grasp the concept of the entire house being a den that needs to be kept clean. Albert seemed to understand the idea of not defecating in the living room and kitchen area, but other areas seemed fine to him. To train him not to poop in remote areas in the house, I became very vigilant about watching him when the barrier to the hallway was not in place. If I saw him wandering down the hall, I’d call him, tell him “outside” and put him out. Of course, once in a while he would get down the hall when I wasn’t looking. If this happened, often I’d show him the pile on the carpet, and tell him “outside.” I’d then put him out, and go clean up the area. Afterwards, I’d let him back in. I never used a stern tone of voice or scolded him. Though some might question the idea of showing the dog a mess after the fact, I feel it can help. Of course it is better (but not always possible) to interrupt the dog in the act and then escort him outside

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as quickly as you can. In Albert’s case, he finally figured things out and quit sneaking down the hall to eliminate.

Making progress with Otis Albert graduated from his fear biting and had become reliably house trained in about seven months, at which time he was adopted into his forever home. Reforming Otis with respect to biting, no longer shutting down when feeling afraid, and house training took a lot longer to accomplish.

Using the right sized crate Otis was kept in a crate at night in a quiet room after we separated the two dogs. His new crate was the right size. As mentioned in Chapter 2, some people tend to hold to the misconception that a crate should only be big enough for the dog to turn around and lie down. This can cause a dog who has an accident to be forced to lie in his mess, which is counterproductive to house training. Otis’ nighttime crate was not extra-large like his doggy RV, which invited him to eliminate in a specific area. However, his crate did allow him enough room that if he did eliminate in it, he was not forced to lie in either poop or pee. I noticed that some mornings I would go into the room and Otis’ crate was clean. I would put him outside to do his business. After he was done, I often tossed out a treat and told him he was a good boy. I tossed out the treat because it took a long time for Otis to feel comfortable with me handing him a treat. There were some days when Otis would bark early, before my usual time to let him out. I would go into his room only to discover he’d already made a mess in his crate. The mess was always located right next to the crate door. I never scolded him, but put him outside while I cleaned up the crate. Once in a while, he would bark before he eliminated. This was great! I’d hop out of bed and go to the room with his crate and put him out into the small pen. Again, I would watch, and after he did his business, toss a treat while telling him what a good boy he was, then let him back in. This pattern of sometimes barking before, but too often barking after he eliminated, went on for a while. I just remained consistent with my 107

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techniques. Finally, after a few months, he became reliable about not messing in the crate. When working in this kind of situation, since keeping the crate clean and free of smells is so important, making this task easy is helpful, as discussed in Chapter 2. Remember, a dog pad in the crate can be replaced by old towels, which are easier to replace with clean ones every day if needed. Keep in mind it is important to use an enzymatic cleaner to eliminate any and all odors both when washing the towels and when cleaning the crate under the towels. With dogs who have never grasped the concept of eliminating outside of the crate, it may take patience and a lot of encouragement to finally achieve success. Ironically, even though Otis existed for his first few years in a filthy crate, the crate still became a valuable tool in his house training. Otis took about a year to be reformed to the point he could live in his forever home, mostly due to his fear issues rather than house training challenges. With his house training, once he got it, he seemed to understand the rules. When he went to his new home, for the most part, he transitioned rather well. There was only one incident: Within the first month of living in his new home, the new owner had a friend bring over a dog to visit. Otis loved playing with this new dog. However, when the dog left, Otis became quite upset. He ran back and forth in front of the front door, then he peed and pooped. Fortunately, his new owner didn’t reprimand him at all. She must have realized his issue was due to stressing out about his new playmate leaving. Although she was not happy, she simply cleaned up the mess. This problem didn’t repeat, and with time Otis became confident in his new home, and completely devoted to his new owner.

Summary Some rescue dogs will seem to adjust to a new home automatically. However, any dog can benefit from having the owner use the go-to method to help a dog transition into the new residence and routine. That technique, especially when done frequently in the beginning, can help a dog better relax and get to bond with new owners. It also helps reduce stress, which is counterproductive to house training reliability.

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When rescue dogs have more chronic fear issues, the house training challenges increase. To help the dog succeed, the fear issues will often need to be resolved. For many owners, rescued mill dogs may pose extra challenges. With some mill dogs, you may need to counsel the owners that the dog will need help working through a variety of issues as part of the house training process. However, with persistence and the right technique, it can be done. Fortunately, the house training process can be worked on at the same time the fear issues are addressed. In addition to fear issues, the dogs may need help reconnecting with their natural desire to keep the den clean. With time and the right techniques, house training success is attainable.

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6 Submissive Peeing Issues

Dog owners typically find submissive peeing frustrating. Even though it is characterized by urination happening at unwanted times and places, just as it does with regular house training issues, the cause of this problem is actually a relationship issue between a dog and his owner. Ironically, the owner often unknowingly perpetuates the problem. Dog trainers working to solve this issue will typically first work to retrain the habits of the dog owner before they address the unwanted behavior in the dog. The good news is that the problem has a great success rate for resolution when dog owners learn what changes they need to make in their interactions to eliminate the issue.

Sadie’s story I was contacted by Nancy and her husband, Gerry, as a last resort. These two had adopted Sadie, a 3 1/2-year-old Miniature Schnauzer. At the time they adopted the dog, Sadie’s condition was deplorable. She had mats, knots, fleas and hot spots. She was never socialized with other dogs or children. Topping the list of problems was that Sadie peed a great deal whenever her new owners bent over to pet her or give her any attention.

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At first, Nancy and Gerry were determined to turn things around for Sadie, giving her medical help as well as love and encouragement. Sadly, after seven months, none of their training efforts had helped with the submissive peeing, tail crouching, bending of her head and lip licking. Now more problems were showing up. Sadie had begun to defecate in the house. Both Nancy and Gerry felt at their wits’ end, and with the new issue of pooping in the house, they were considering re-homing her. However, they feared a new home would not be as tolerant and patient as they had been. They loved Sadie and didn’t know what they could do. After hearing their story, my professional analysis was that all of their issues were due to overly submissive behaviors that the owners were unintentionally perpetuating. I also felt there was hope for this dog. To help the family, Nancy and Gerry needed to learn about why dogs display overly submissive behaviors, including submissive peeing.

What is submissive peeing?

Submissive peeing is a relationship issue.

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Submissive peeing does deal with urination; however, this is not a house training problem. As noted above, submissive peeing is a relationship problem between the dog and the owner. Typically, the owner doesn’t realize his or her role in this issue. It’s important to note that while some people diagnose the submissive peeing dog as having an overly submissive temperament, not all dogs who display overly submissive behaviors, such as rolling over to expose a tummy when approached, display submissive peeing. This particular problem seems to be a careful interplay between the dog’s temperament and the owner’s behavior.

Characteristics of submissive peeing behaviors Submissive peeing often results in a smaller volume of urine being expelled from a dog. The duration of the peeing is not as long as during regular elimination, indicating that the dog is not urinating because she could no longer hold in a large volume. The behavior is most often seen when the owner tries to engage with the dog. Of course, any time there is a question that the issue might be medical, the owner should take the dog to the veterinarian to make sure there is no urinary infection or other causative issue. To help a dog owner better understand what is going on with submissive peeing, I often explain that what the dog just did was offer the owner a gift. The pee is a gift of submission offered by a dog who is hoping to appease her owner. If the owner responds with any kind of disapproval, the dog is cued to try harder to appease the owner. Since out of all the appeasement behaviors a dog can offer, submissively peeing is on the extreme end of the behavior spectrum, your disapproval means the dog has no choice but to intensify the peeing behavior, since there are no more intense appeasement signals to offer. That can result in the dog learning to submissively pee more quickly or longer, in hopes the owner will accept the gift. When it comes to submissive peeing issues, dogs often begin to pee more frequently and may do so with less of the cueing behavior from the owner.

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Another submissive act is for a dog to roll over and expose her belly.

Events that trigger submissive peeing in dogs Below are common interactions initiated by the dog owner that may trigger a submissive peeing event: Directly approaching a dog. Some dogs are not bothered by people marching over with intent, while others will want to flee from such an approach. Dogs prone to submissive behaviors often find a direct approach nearly impossible to tolerate unless they have had extensive training. A direct approach may be interpreted by the dog as the owner being displeased, or that the owner has intentions to do something aversive. An indirect approach is better. Instead of walking straight at the dog, the dog owner can learn a less direct approach, such as meandering steps or approaching in an arc. For some dogs, having humans gaze toward the ground and approach slowly is more comfortable. Teach the owner, when they want to interact with the dog, to stop, get to a lower level such as sitting or squatting on the floor, and call the dog over for a greeting. Once the owner works out a way to greet the dog where the dog feels comfortable, the owner often needs to train guests who want to greet the dog to use these same greeting techniques. Eye contact. People make eye contact with each other to convey things including happiness, sternness, anger or hostile intentions. 113

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Dogs also experience a vast array of communication through eye contact. Dogs with overly submissive tendencies may want to avoid any eye contact. That is because the dog is identifying the eye contact as a cue that she must submit. Sometimes the trigger is warranted because the eye contact is too stern for a more submissive dog to tolerate. Other times the issue is that the dog either anticipates too much negativity from the owner, or reacts to any eye contact as if it is too negative. If the dog seems to want to look away when the owner focuses on the dog, then the owner needs to be trained to use indirect eye contact. Owners may also need to learn how to keep their expressions amiable. It is best to avoid staring intently at the dog. Looming or bending to pet a dog. Some dogs don’t care if their owner bends over them when petting their heads, while others may take this as an aggressive posture. For the overly submissive dog, an owner looming over or bending to pet the dog is a clear request for the dog to react submissively. Peeing is one of many ways a submissive dog may respond. With training, dogs can learn to be more comfortable about this kind of interaction.

Standing over or looming over a dog can create an uncomfortable feeling in some dogs.

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While dogs can be trained to accept this behavior from humans, it is far easier for the dog owner to learn not to bend over a dog to pet her, at least until the dog is taught not to react adversely to this interaction. What dog owners often don’t realize is that, by the time they are moving to bend over the dog, they have already given several cues the dog is uncomfortable with. Dogs often express their unease though body language. Below is a list of the ways dogs may be trying to tell their owners they are uncomfortable, even before the owner gets close enough to bend to pet the dog.

Teach your client early identification of signals The first step in changing the dog’s unwanted submissive reactions is to teach the clients to recognize the signals the dog is giving them that indicate the dog is feeling uncomfortable. If the clients learn to watch the dog for signals that she is feeling insecure, they can then learn to change their course of action before the dog submissively pees. By preventing a submissive peeing episode, the dog can learn to interact with the owner without engaging in overly submissive behavior. Some of the signals the client will benefit from learning include: • The dog diverts eye contract • The dog licks lips • The dog shows a slight tremble • The dog hunches or tightens up her posture • The dog turns her head If the dog displays any of these signals, she is signaling to the owner that she is feeling insecure. The owner needs to learn to pick up on this information and respond by stopping their approach toward the dog immediately. The owner can then work to reassure the dog. By doing early intervention, the dog can more readily learn how to abandon overly submissive behaviors. Techniques to engage the dog are discussed later in the chapter.

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Reasons dogs begin submissively peeing Adolescence, a time when dogs are prone to overly submissive behaviors Dogs beginning their adolescence, 4 to 6 months or age, can confuse their owners with a variety of unexpected behaviors. One moment the dog may be misbehaving, warranting a reprimand. The next moment, the dog is engaging in overly submissive behaviors, including submissive peeing. Dogs who previously accepted affection may begin to pee when the owner bends over the dog to pet her. One of the best things an owner can do if their dog submissively pees is to ignore the behavior. With most dogs, if the owner ignores the issue, the dog will outgrow this problem after a year of age. However, if the owner reacts with strong disapproval or punishes the dog, those actions will perpetuate the submissive peeing past a year of age and require more specialized training.

The dog perceives the owner as threatening If an owner threatens a dog, the dog has several choices for how to respond. Some of those choices include fleeing, biting in defense and cowering. Sometimes a dog first shows appeasement behaviors. Crawling away, which is often accompanied by the dog looking over his shoulder to see if you are still threatening, is an appeasement behavior. Appeasement behavior is a form of social behavior in which one party seeks to pacify the aggression of another by taking an inferior social stance. Some dogs showing appeasement behaviors may never resort to submissive peeing. Other dogs may find the owner’s actions so worrisome that they escalate to submissive peeing. Of course it is easy to understand a dog feeling threatened when an owner physically intimidates the dog, or uses excessively harsh scolding. But, what may surprise some dog owners is that a more sensitive dog may respond to a sharp “no” as if the word is too harsh. Some dogs are simply more sensitive than others. Even if the owner doesn’t see their actions as threatening, what matters is how the dog perceives and reacts to the situation.

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The dog is overly sensitive Each dog is an individual. Some dogs can have sensitivities that other dogs do not. For example, some dogs react to medical issues in people. If the dog’s sensitivity allows the animal to be trained to alert their owners to, for example, a seizure, the dog is highly prized. However, if a dog becomes stressed if he perceives a medical abnormality in the owner, that stress can create issues with the dog’s behavior. One of the issues a more sensitive dog may develop is overly submissive behaviors. Another one is house training regression, as discussed in Chapter 4.

Some dogs are sensitive to their owners’ emotional states, and respond accordingly. Strong emotions in people, including anger, can sometimes cause issues with sensitive dogs. With dogs who are sensitive to anger, the owner doesn’t need to be angry at the dog for the dog to react 117

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adversely. Highly nervous people may be difficult for some dogs to tolerate, especially more sensitive dogs. Some stressed-out dogs go unnoticed by their owners, since dogs are stoic. Other times, the stressed dog has digestive issues. Another way stress in the household may manifest in a dog is via overly submissive behavior. Ironically, a dog may take up submissive peeing to try and help out an owner who the dog feels is nervous, stressed or angry, hoping appeasement will help change the situation. When dealing with a dog who is insecure by nature, the first step is to work to help change the owner’s behavior. When working with the dog, part of the solution often involves working to first desensitize the dog to owner behaviors she finds worrisome, or it could involve working to build confidence to change the level of insecurity. There is more information below on building confidence in a dog.

Cause or effect?

Owners who use harsher techniques can create over-reactivity in the dog. Likewise, a more sensitive dog can at times be more reactive to relationships other dogs see as benign. Both situations can generate a higher level of appeasement behaviors in some dogs. Dog trainers need to look closely at the relationship between dog and owner. To help change submissive behavior patterns, it is not usual for the dog trainer to need to address the reaction in the dog, as well as the factors that contributed to the issue. If the dog is highly sensitive, then desensitization techniques and efforts to prevent the dog from becoming overwhelmed often need to be employed. If the dog is responding to too-harsh interactions between owner and pet, then the owner will need most of the retraining. Even after the root cause is discovered, training is often needed to change behavioral patterns of overly submissive behavior.

The dog has a naturally submissive personality Some dogs have more submissive personalities. Dogs of this kind typically seek to establish their relationship by showing submission

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when interacting with people, even if the person is not acting in a threatening way. Sometimes a dog who has a submissive personality will roll over and expose his tummy when approached. However, be careful not to automatically label the dog rolling on his back as being submissive. A dog who you pat on the head who drops to the ground and shows his tummy is probably looking for a friendly tummy rub. The difference is that the first dog is insecure and prefers to interact as an extreme subordinate. With the first dog, the tummy is often offered before any contact is made. The second dog merely has a preference for tummy rubs. Dogs with a submissive personality will often begin this kind of behavior before adolescence. These dogs need to be taught that this is not the desired way to interact with their owners. Typically the dog who has a submissive nature will need to learn this lesson by having the offering of submission “rejected” by the owner. To accomplish this, simply have the owner turn away whenever the dog shows signs of submission. Then the owner will need to go on to show the dog the correct type of interaction. A good way to do that is to call the dog over and interact, offering the dog affection for not displaying submission.

Solving overly submissive behavior issues Since overly submissive behaviors stem from a relationship issue between owner and dog, any part of the dog and owner relationship that is contributing to the problem first needs to be addressed. Dogs who are more sensitive or more submissive by nature will benefit from confidence building. With dog owners who have too harsh of an approach for their dog’s tolerance, working with the dog owner to change is imperative. Often you will find each dog needs a balance between training of the owner and the dog to resolve the issue. The information below is provided to offer ideas on where to start when working to solve a particular dog’s issue.

Help for the overly submissive adolescent As mentioned, some adolescent dogs can have problematic behaviors such as not following commands like they did as a puppy or becoming destructive. This may result in the dog owner using punishment to

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try and resolve misbehaviors. Some adolescent dogs will respond to harsher interactions by submissively peeing. Sometimes the owner didn’t become any harsher with their interactions; however, the dog may begin to occasionally submissively pee. When working with an adolescent who is both misbehaving and submissively peeing, the best ways to change problematic behaviors is to offer the dog structure through training. A good way to achieve this is by enrolling the dog in a class that uses positive training techniques. Classes have an advantage in that the dog can learn how to listen to you when distracted around other dogs.

Training using positive techniques helps the adolescent who is both misbehaving and submissively peeing.

A technique for adolescence and older dogs At one time, people expected that dogs going through adolescence who submissively peed just needed time. If owners didn’t punish this 120

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action, the dog would often outgrow it after a year of age. This can certainly be true with some dogs, but others will need extra work. Dogs who are more sensitive and have already gotten into the wrong relationship with the owner, and dogs who have a highly submissive personality, will need extra training to improve. One technique that can help adolescent and older dogs is known as “turning down the gift.” The way you teach a dog owner to turn down the gift is to instruct the owner to quietly turn around and walk away any time the dog offers “the gift,” i.e., shows a submissive behavior, including submissive peeing. The calm turning away tells the dog “no, thank you” to the gift. The second part of this technique is to have the owner stop a short distance away, about 6 to 10 feet, then glance over his shoulder at the dog. Most dogs feel more secure from a glance over a shoulder, leaving the dog feeling less intimidated. If the owner sees that the dog is no longer in a posture that indicates a submissive pee is coming, the owner can then work on a more preferable form of interaction. One way to do this is have the owner sit on the floor or in a chair. Once the owner is relaxed, they can call the dog over to interact. Remind the owner not to stare directly at the dog. If the dog is hesitant, then the owner can calmly go and get some high-value treats or even a toy. Gently toss the treat and tell the dog to get it. Again have the owner call the dog while holding out another treat. The action of the dog moving forward helps break the submission cycle. However, remind the owner not to reach over the dog’s head once the dog arrives. Better ways to engage the dog are described below. In the beginning of the retraining, it is fine to just focus on establishing a habit of positive interactions to replace the dog’s previous submissive behaviors. By working with the dog to change the greeting into a more positive one, the dog and owner can begin developing a different kind of relationship.

Ways to engage a submissive dog Finding more appropriate ways to engage a dog who is insecure and/ or showing overly submissive behaviors can help prevent dogs from

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displaying unwanted submission. By teaching the dog owner ways to interact without encouraging a submissive reaction, the trainer can begin the process of breaking the submission cycle.

Remember not to loom With some dog owners, you will need to remind them not to lean or loom over the dog. You may want to have them practice going down to the dog’s level and calling the dog to come toward them. It is better if the dog can move forward willingly than if the person approaches the dog to avoid the looming over the dog issue. If the owner can’t get up and down from the floor very easily, suggest they sit in a chair and call the dog over for a greeting. It is okay to have them hold out a treat to encourage the dog until she begins to show confidence in coming forward for a greeting.

The chest, not the head It is often important to explain to an owner that although some dogs are fine with you reaching over their head and petting them, others will take time to become comfortable with this action. Shy and reserved dogs may never want to be patted on top of the head. Tell the owner to, instead of patting the dog’s head, try rubbing the dog’s chest. After a friendly rub there, you can teach the owner to begin to rub from the chest to the neck. As long as the dog remains relaxed, the owner may then want to rub his way to the ears. With dogs who readily accept the transition to rubs behind the ears for affection, have the owner move to where they can stroke the top of the head. Another place some dogs like to be touched is under the chin. Strokes under the chin help some dogs feel more secure. Have the owner give this a try and see how the dog reacts.

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Fearful or insecure dogs often do better with being rubbed on the chest instead of patted on top of the head.

Strokes under the chin: different meaning for different personalities

Contact under the chin has specific meaning to dogs. With a pushy dog who doesn’t want to comply, the dog may come up to an owner and solicit strokes under the chin. With this kind of dog, strokes under the chin are counterproductive to compliance. Pushy dogs need to be taught not to insist on affection on their terms. Conversely, a timid and insecure dog will not solicit this kind of attention, but will benefit from strokes under the chin. Contact in that area often acts as a confidence booster for dogs who lack confidence.

Transitioning contact to the top of the head When the dog learns to relax and look forward to those strokes under the chin, the owner can begin moving to contact on top of the head by rubbing from the chin or chest to the neck, then to the head. If the dog shows enjoyment for petting in the head area, the owner may want to teach the dog to accept a direct head pet. Begin by having

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the owner pet the dog on the head through the indirect approach described above. Once the dog relaxes and shows pleasure in this kind of contact, have the owner try pulling their hand a short distance away, and then reach back toward the top of the head. Instruct the owner to be ready to halt their hand mid-air should the dog crouch or lean back at all. If they observe this unwanted reaction, they should give the dog a moment to calm down. Then again approach the chest and work back to the top of the head. Stop the lesson at that point to end on a positive note, and try again later. Should the dog not react adversely, the owner can do a couple of repetitions. After the dog acclimates to short reaches towards the head, the owner can increase the distance by moving backward before reaching with the hand towards the dog. When working on this training, make sure the owner doesn’t lean over the dog. It is important to note that just as some people have preferences, some dogs may never really like the reach over the head, even after attempts at desensitization.

Help from calming signals

When working with submissive peeing issues, calming signals can again be a great aid. For example, any time a dog begins to lean back or crouch, you may want to try a calming signal. Two of the calming signals I’ve had dogs respond well to are the head turn and the yawn and the head turn. As mentioned above, I find yawning to be particularly effective. The head turn is done by turning your head sideways. You will end up with your head at the halfway point between straight forward and over your shoulders. After you present a calming signal, give the dog a moment to interpret this information. Then you can calmly try to interact with the dog again. It is fine if you have to repeat a calming signal several times. Each time you offer this gesture can help the dog learn to relax.

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Dogs have a host of calming signals. This dog’s head turn tells me to pause with my reach towards the dog.

Noting tone of voice When helping dog owners resolve submissive behaviors in dogs, it is important to watch what kind of tone of voice the owner is using and how the dog is reacting. All dogs react differently to our tones of voice. I’ve known dogs who look at you after a stern “no” with an expression that seems to convey “Who died and put you in charge?” I’ve also known dogs who respond to a mild “no” by shutting down and stopping what they were doing, or by reacting fearfully. When verbally communicating with a dog, it is valuable to take note of the dog’s reaction to your tone of voice. With dogs who are struggling with submissive issues, it is

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important to note that the dog may not only react poorly to a stern tone, but can become tense if a tone is too chirpy. Although the well-intended owner hopes to put the dog into a positive state of mind with a more motivational tone, stressed dogs often responds poorly. Be watchful and help correct any verbal communication errors between the dog and owner. A good habit to teach the owner is to learn to use a low-key and calming voice to help reassure the dog.

Tone of voice noted!

I was on a consultation with four problematic Chihuahuas. The newest one was the ring leader when it came to stirring up stress in the others. With the ring leader sitting on the elderly owner’s lap, I was coaching him on techniques to calm the dog. He then bent over the dog to talk to her. The dog didn’t react to the bending, so I listened to his tone of voice. I had developed an automatic tendency to correct owners when their tone of voice went up an octave. However, with this owner, things were different. When he talked to the dog, and occasionally changed his tone an octave higher, the dog didn’t tense. As I thought it over, two things occurred to me. First, he had used this technique to calm the dog before and established a habit of calming down with the dog. And second, although I’d seen many dogs immediately react poorly to that kind of tonal change, this man had a unique gift. He sounded like a preacher soothing someone who’d just suffered a deep loss. Though I didn’t know what his profession had been, somewhere he’d honed this skill. He knew when to raise his tone and lower it and still create calm in an animal. After that incident, I trained myself to watch the dog’s reaction more closely before coaching the owner on tone of voice. After all, there are always the exceptions in dog training.

Owners who struggle to change their own behavior Hey, I get it. The traffic was worse than ever, nothing went right today, and on it goes. The last thing we want is a dog who is peeing when he sees us. We bought the dog to enjoy, not for this! Some people will 126

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struggle with their reactions to a dog who submissively pees. That is in part because some people have very deep-rooted feelings of anger when it comes to a dog peeing in the house. Those people may want to consider a belly band for a male dog and britches for females. These aids may come with different names, but the function is the same: to catch urine and keep it off your rug or floor. The male’s belly band goes around the dog’s middle, while the female’s britches are like short pants. Many devices used for females in heat can also be employed to help catch urine. By preventing the urine from soiling the house, some people find they can more quickly learn not to respond as negatively to this issue while working to retrain the dog.

Encourage the owner to work at the dog’s level. You may need to remind the owner that getting mad when the dog pees tells the dog he didn’t really appease the owner at all. Since submissively peeing is the best way to try and show appeasement, the dog may try harder, doing the same behavior but more emphatically the next time. Getting mad creates triggers for the dog to continue to pee. A better response to teach the dog owner who struggles with anger at submissive peeing is to turn around and walk off the moment the dog engages in this overly submissive behavior. The owner needs to strive for calm when doing the about-face turn. Even 127

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if your turning around is too late to stop the dog from peeing, carry through with the calm about-face without saying a word. This tells the dog “no, thank you” to this effort. It is better for the owner to learn to wait until they are calm to engage with the dog.

Using tact with the dog owner The professional dog trainer must stay away from judging the dog owner or lecturing, and approach the training of the dog owner with respect. Show the owner the same patience you are asking the owner to show their dog. No matter how the dog owner interacts with their dog, your job is to discover interaction errors that are creating issues with overly submissive behaviors, and educate the owner about better techniques.

Case studies Sadie’s solution Early in this chapter you read about a dog named Sadie. Nancy found some good solutions following a lot of the information presented above. Nancy was exceptional in that she was quickly able to control her behavior toward Sadie, allowing the dog to change in a very short period of time. Some of the solutions for this case included: • I specifically reviewed with Nancy that bending over Sadie invites her to submissively pee. I then suggested that a better way to greet Sadie for now was to sit in a chair and let the dog approach her. • Nancy had mentioned Sadie had a very excited greeting. I pointed out that the overly excited greeting may have developed because Sadie was stressed and nervous about her relationship with Nancy. I suggested that instead of letting the dog rush up to Nancy, to have Gerry put her on a leash and hold back (no jerking or scolding) to slow down the dog. This can help teach the dog to relax about the greeting and can help teach the dog to learn to calm down around the owner and feel more secure.

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• Once the dog was calmly in Nancy’s lap, I suggested that she do the soothing touch. I also talked about making contact with the dog’s chest first. • I told Nancy to give her new training at least a week, and if Sadie was still defecating in the house, we would address that issue then. However, I suspected this problem would resolve once Nancy changed the behaviors that were triggering the submissive peeing, since Sadie would feel less stressed in general. Dogs who are feeling stressed are more prone to issues such as soiling in a house, even when they have the opportunity to go outside. I did encourage Nancy to instruct her husband when taking Sadie for walks to give her a treat and approval such as a calm “good girl” when she eliminated during the walk. A week later I got an email about Sadie’s progress: Nancy reported it helped her a great deal to understand that Sadie’s problems were not house training issues, but were a result of stress and anxiety. Nancy modified her behaviors and interactions with Sadie so the dog wouldn’t be incline to give Nancy the “gift” of peeing as an appeasement behavior. Nancy talked softly to Sadie, didn’t make direct eye contact, and didn’t bend over her. Instead, Nancy kneeled sideways down to pet her, beginning with a pet under the chin rather than the top of the head. Nancy reported two close calls over the week, where Sadie began to crouch with her tail down and start to lower her hind quarters. Nancy responded by immediately getting up and moving away. This allowed Sadie to pull it together. In one week, Nancy and her husband went from experiencing distress about getting rid of a dog they’d grown attached to, to feeling they could solve their issues. I give credit for Sadie’s quick recover to Nancy, who diligently worked and followed the right protocol.

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Almost a year later, Sadie and Nancy enjoy a great relationship.

Kayla’s story: submissive personality Like Sadie, Kayla was another dog who had submissive peeing issues and was at risk of losing her home. Unlike Sadie, this case took a long time to resolve, mostly because Dave had such immediate anger reactions toward Kayla’s peeing issues. He would quickly get frustrated. Some dogs are more sensitive towards our emotions and appear to suffer from our disapproval. Even though Dave struggled with controlling his emotions, he stayed the course and Kayla did recover from her submissive peeing issue. Kayla, Jane and Dave Jane and Dave loved their little terrier, Kayla, except for the peeing problem. That issue was there from the beginning, when they acquired her at 8 weeks old. When one of them bent down to unsnap Kayla’s leash after a walk, she would pee. Dave got mad and would rub Kayla’s nose in the pee. Instead of Kayla learning her lesson, her problem got worse.

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I explained to Jane and Dave that the dog’s problem was not an act of defiance, or even a house training problem. Kayla’s submissive peeing was a relationship issue. After explaining the mindset of an overly submissive dog, I explained that Kayla’s success was directly dependent on Dave learning to control his emotional reactions to the situation. Included in the instructions was an emphasis on how Jane and Dave needed to interact with Kayla. In addition to the “do” list, which I’ve included below, there was also a list of don’ts, including no physical punishment, no verbal scolding and no anger at incidents of submissive peeing. Kayla’s owners also mentioned having picked her up by the scruff on one occasion, only to find that it caused her to pee liberally. The action of grabbing a dog’s scruff, especially if you shake the dog by the scruff, is a clear message to the dog to submit. Dogs like Kayla who already have a naturally very submissive personality often become frightened if people pick them up by the scruff. That fear can perpetuate submissive peeing, or some dogs might engage in fear peeing. Although Dave understood he needed to change his behavior, he really struggled when it came to reacting with anger at Kayla’s peeing. Unfortunately, my work with Dave and Jane occurred many years ago. At that time, belly bands for males and britches for females were not common. I only knew of a few sources for britches from private individuals. Had we been able to use this device on Kayla, I feel Dave would have better controlled his anger at Kayla’s peeing and she would have stopped much sooner. Instead of resolving in a few weeks or months, Kayla’s issues didn’t resolve for a year. However, her owners didn’t give up. And even though their interactions with her were a mix of appropriate ones and those that reinforced the peeing, Kayla did learn to interact with Dave without submissively peeing. It is not my intention to criticize Dave’s struggles to not become angry at his dog’s peeing behavior. Some people have a deeply rooted aversion to house soiling. For those individuals, it is very difficult for them not to react adversely. If you encounter a dog owner who struggles with intense negative reactions to peeing, consider using a urine catching device such as a belly band or britches. This can help the clients have more patience until they can work to control the unintended cues that precipitate the dog’s overly submissive behaviors. It will also help them keep their carpets and floors clean while the dog learns to break the habit of responding this way. 131

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Since improving the relationship between owner and dog can help curb submissive peeing, encourage them to engage in a fun activity.

Rocket’s story: Why in the world would a dominant dog ever submissively pee? It would be an understatement to say that Rocket was a very interesting dog. As it turned out, he ended up with two very difficult house training issues to resolve. The first was house training regression

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and the second was submissive peeing. In this chapter, I will address the submissive peeing issue. Rocket’s house training regression was discussed in Chapter 4. I discovered Rocket had a submissive peeing issue when he came to stay at my house for three weeks while his family was out of town. Rocket was over a year old. He was a very happy dog and loved to hang out with me in the kitchen in hopes I’d give him some kind of treat when I was cooking. He also had a very bad habit of barking excessively if I put him in the pen in our front yard and didn’t let him in right away. I told him “quiet” a couple of times because I knew the owners had worked on that command. However, Rocket would not comply for me. Since he more readily responded to other commands, I suspected the terrier part of him was showing a bit of willfulness. I’ve never liked negative training techniques, but long ago, I had a few techniques that I was still holding on to. To try and teach Rocket to stop barking at the door, I opened up the door, said “quiet,” then used a very small spritz of water. He was quiet, but when I let him in the house, any time I looked at him, he would submissively pee. Most literature states that dogs who have an issue submissively peeing typically do so when someone looms over them. Rocket didn’t need that kind of encouragement at all. If I looked at him, even from across a room, he’d pee. Given this is such an extreme case of submissive peeing, I think it’s important to explain how Rocket became such a “professional” at this behavior. Rocket’s submissive peeing issues began during adolescence. For some dogs, the transition from puppy to adulthood can be turbulent. Dogs may show aggression during this time, which seems to disappear when the dog grows into an adult. Some dogs will show dominant behaviors, then immediately show submissive ones. Defiance may crop up overnight. Likewise, so can submissive peeing. In short, dealing with some canine adolescent dogs can be trying. When Rocket entered adolescence, he displayed a lot of the contradicting behaviors I’ve described above. When it came to following commands, he began to pick and choose if he would comply. Part of his issue was simply adolescence, and part was from his terrier breeding. Generally, 133

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Jack Russell Terriers are known for being strong-willed and for having a “take charge” attitude. These are actually useful traits when the dog is doing what Jack Russells are bred for, which is to flush foxes out of a den. However, many dog owners quickly get frustrated when their pet dog’s temperament results in issues around compliance with commands. It isn’t unusual for pet owners to misunderstand a dog’s assertiveness, believing instead that the dog is acting dominant. Rocket’s owners made the mistake of thinking their dog was acting dominant, in part because another trainer told them this was the case. They believed they needed to try and dominate their dog. The real problem was in the labeling of the dog. Once-popular concepts, such as the labeling of “dominant” dogs, or trainers wanting to make a dog show “calm submission” are misguided. What you really want a dog to do is to see you as the leader, and have him obey your commands because he understands them. This is achieved through training using positive techniques, not secured through punishment or trying to bully a dog into compliance. Where people really get into issues with labeling a dog as “dominant” is with submissive peeing. Mark fell into that trap with Rocket. Mark’s understanding from the other trainer was that he needed to show this dog who was the alpha. That led to Rocket submissively peeing. To better understand this issue, let’s look at what happened to create Rocket’s commitment to submissive peeing. Instead of training Rocket to perform desirable behaviors, Mark punished unwanted behaviors. Unfortunately, Rocket was very sensitive. It isn’t unusual for a highly sensitive dog to forget what the punishment was all about and instead focus on the harsh treatment. Sealing Rocket’s fate for learning to submissively pee was one specific technique Mark was told to use to “dominate the dog.” That technique was to hold Rocket’s head and stare him in the eyes. If Rocket looked away first, then the dog was admitting that the human was the alpha in this situation…or that’s how the concept was presented. Rocket got the message to submit, all right. He submitted so much he began to submissively pee. Unlike dogs who respond to looming or bending over the dog, all Mark had to do was to look at Rocket

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to elicit peeing. As it turned out, Rocket became so committed to submitting in this way that he would do so from across the room. I think it is also important to note that efforts to convince Rocket that he should submit to Mark as “the alpha” did nothing to stop Rocket’s unwanted misbehaviors. This part of Rocket’s story is a good illustration of a point I’ve returned to a few times already: The best way to a well-behaved dog is proactive training using positive techniques. Conversely, dogs with submissive peeing issues will typically get worse with their behaviors if you use punishment-based training. When Rocket first arrived at my house, he had two ways to interact with adult humans. The first was how he interacted with Mark’s wife, Rochelle. She fed the dog treats when she cooked in the kitchen, and sometimes played with him. She didn’t use harsh discipline to correct Rocket, but used treats to train him to sit and lie down. Mark, on the other hand, was operating under the misconception that he had to be the alpha to Rocket, especially when dealing with any kind of misbehavior. Rocket realized he needed to show Mark appeasement behaviors because Mark’s actions warranted that kind of response. Rocket became so determined to submit to Mark that as soon as Mark walked through the door when coming home from work, all Mark had to do was glance in his direction, and Rocket would respond by peeing. What I realized had happened when I spritzed Rocket with some water to quit barking was that he decided he needed to respond to me like he did Mark, and not like Rochelle. At first, I had Rochellelike interactions with the dog, but that one mistake sealed my fate. Rocket immediately became committed to peeing for me at a glance. To solve Rocket’s problems, I needed to find a way for him to accept me looking at him without triggering him peeing. Having picked up the idea that Rochelle fed the dog in the kitchen when she cooked, I decided this was a good place to mend our relationship. I would occasionally toss Rocket tidbits of food. He enjoyed this and anticipated the offerings with glee. However, he wasn’t really forgiving about me making eye contact. If I met his eyes, he’d still pee. To help break this habit, I employed a technique used by

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another dog trainer I knew named Janice Dearth, an accomplished Rally Obedience judge and author. To encourage dogs to learn the “watch” command, where dogs look to your eyes, she would put food in her mouth and spit a treat when dogs glanced at her face. Ironically, although a stare-down where you ask the dog to look away first is a bullying tactic, dogs who willingly looking toward your eyes are often displaying a desire to follow your leadership. Since Rocket was already used to more positive interactions in the kitchen, I tried spitting a treat, such as a piece of cheese, when our eyes met. Soon Rocket got over peeing from eye contact in the kitchen. It took more work to transfer that to the rest of the house. If Rocket did pee before I could spit the treat, I turned away and ignored the gift. Then we went back to the kitchen and reinforced the “eye contact means a treat” training before retrying it again elsewhere. The times that I turned away when Rocket submissively peed, I made sure I did so calmly to show him that I wasn’t mad, but I didn’t want his “gift” of submission. Sometimes, I would follow up that action by strolling over and picking up a toy. I would sit on the floor and begin squeaking the toy, then call Rocket over to play. He loved playing with squeak toys and he soon learned that I wanted a Rochelle relationship, not a Mark one. By the time Rocket returned home, he had quit submissively peeing for me. I sent him home with instructions, and after a few months, he learned to no longer react that way with Mark. I feel the story about Mark, Rochelle and Rocket illustrates just how much a dog owner’s relationship with the dog plays a role in this unwanted behavior. Mark created the wrong kind of relationship with Rocket by using harsh techniques to try and discipline the dog. Rochelle had an entirely different relationship with Rocket because she kept the interactions positive. The result was that Rocket never submissively peed for Rochelle, but always did for Mark. Although many dogs who begin having submissive peeing issues as an adolescent quit that behavior after a year of age, Rocket persisted. Retraining both Rocket and Mark resolved this issue. Even if a dog has had the habit of submissive peeing for years, using the right techniques, in particular successful retraining of the owners, can solve the problem.

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Shay’s story: Why a dog who attacked other dogs over food submissively peed for Jim Shay was adopted by her first owners, Jim and Mary, at about 7 months of age. Problems abounded from the beginning. Her owners observed that Shay would start fights over food or possessions, but she always lost out to their German Shepherd. Other issues quickly began to crop up with Shay, including submissive peeing. In a lastditch attempt to make the situation livable, Shay was sent to prison.

When Shay first arrived at my house, she was very uncertain about any interactions with me. The prison dog program teams inmates with dogs who need reform training. The training is a mixture of positive and corrective. For example, treats are used to encourage the dog to sit on command, and leash jerks are used to stop the dog from pulling. What Gary, the inmate who Shay was assigned to, quickly discovered was that 137

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he had to keep things positive with her. His reprimands were met with submissive peeing. When he changed, so did this habit in Shay. As Gary stated in his notes, “Shay knows what ‘no’ means, so don’t hesitate to let her know who is boss, but she doesn’t need a huge correction because she is still a submissive dog.” After Shay completed her six-week program, which included training on basic commands, leash walking and interacting with other dogs, he went home. Although some of Shay’s issues were improved, he still occasionally submissively peed when interacting with Jim. On top of that, she got car sick and still squabbled over food with the German Shepherd. So, at about a year and a half old, Shay ended up at my house as a foster. Part of why Shay’s behavior issues didn’t resolve was that she never really needed to be “shown who was boss.” She needed to be taught not to be food possessive. When I began working with Shay, I didn’t feel like she had a submissive nature, nor was she a timid dog. However, being a Border Collie and English Springer Spaniel mix, she wanted a secure and understanding human relationship. Unfortunately, Jim, who was tall and powerful in stature, used disciplinary techniques to try and thwart unwanted behaviors. That was why Shay still occasionally submissively peed for him, even after she’d learned not to do that for the trainer in the prison dog program. Shay came to me with a lot of baggage. That quickly became obvious when she first saw my husband. He had just put on a beanie cap and I went to get Shay so we could all go for a walk. My husband, Ken, is 6 feet tall. The moment Shay saw him, she pulled back on the leash and refused to go forward. We figured Ken reminded Shay of Jim, and that caused her to panic. It took months of Ken working amiably with Shay to get her to feel less timid around him. Since my husband knows how not to trigger submissive peeing, that was never an issue. Training was key in teaching Shay not to attack another dog over food. Since leadership training is not about intimidation, Shay learned through training that she couldn’t hunker down over dog food or attack another dog to get a treat. Her car sickness also readily resolved after I worked to create a positive experience with car rides.

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Although dogs are often stoic, their reaction to relationships that don’t work for them can manifest in other ways, including getting nervous in a car, resulting in car sickness. It may also show up as overly submissive behaviors such as submissive peeing.

Shay’s submissive behaviors around people didn’t stop her from picking a fight with other dogs. Shay learned to calm down and feel safe in our home. Her car sickness went away, she learned not to attack other dogs over possessions, and she completely quit any submissive peeing. After screening several people, two individuals seemed like they might be a good fit. However, before this match could be made, two things needed to happen. These people needed to feel this was the right dog for them, and Shay needed to feel like these people were part of her family. Some dogs are by nature more relationship-oriented with humans and feel most comfortable when given an opportunity to bond closely with people. When John and Susan first met Shay, I watched how Shay responded to Susan. That went well. Then I carefully watched how she regarded John, since she’d reacted with concern toward my husband. Those two clicked immediately. Shay never had any issues with submissive peeing in her new home and was reported to be an absolute delight as a dog. Susan and John offered Shay the kind of home she had wanted all along. It was easy for John and Susan, since this was the kind of relationship they wanted with their dog, including an unusually strong bond.

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What I hope Shay’s story illustrates is that dogs can have aggression issues with other dogs, and have issues with overly submissive behaviors with people. At the heart of the issue is that since submissive peeing is a relationship issue with people, some dogs will have a low tolerance for punishment training from their owners. Fights with other dogs, even if they lose, are a separate issue. That problem can be changed through specific training using positive techniques. When it comes to the human and dog relationship, punishment training can damage the bond between dog and owner. Although some breeds, and some individuals, show more tolerance than others for punishment training, other breeds and individuals will need a strong human and dog bond. Some dog owners feel bonding means spoiling. That is incorrect. Dogs who are taught rules for good behaviors typically form stronger bonds with their owners. As well, these dogs feel more secure. That was very true with Shay. She needed to be taught that the dog owner owned the food and all the possessions, and that the dog owner, as the leader, could give affection to her and to another dog. I felt Shay’s submissive peeing issue was a result of her having a very low tolerance for punishment. It is ironic that even though Shay was very aggressive when it came to possessions such as food and affection, she had no tolerance for any kind of aggression from people. That was why she ended up submissively peeing for Jim and any other person who was forceful in their interactions.

The role of leadership training when dealing with an overly submissive dog As noted several times before, overly submissive behaviors most often result from a relationship issue, rather than a house training issue. I have talked about what not to do to create or perpetuate a behavior like submissive peeing. Now it is time to talk about what kind of relationship dogs really want from their owners to feel safe, secure, and loved. Humans and their dogs have at times had culture clashes borne of misunderstanding about what our dogs want and need from their relationships with us, as well as the best strategies for training. That culture clash was fed through misinformation over the years. Training 140

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adopted after WWII used what was described as a “yank and spank” approach. Trainers used negative reinforcement to gain compliance. For example, they would jerk on a choke collar until the dog sat. When the dog complied, the choking action stopped. The “do as I say and the pain goes away” strategy is sadly still employed by some people. We’ve further misunderstood our dogs by expecting them to act just like wolves. To make matters worse, those expectations were based on wolf studies that were ultimately deemed invalid because the wolves were being studied in confinement, altering their natural behavior. Some people feel dogs’ behaviors are governed solely by the dog wanting to comply with the wishes of a strong alpha, with human dominance over the dog being mandatory for good behavior. However, generations of breeding have changed dogs into animals with a broad range of temperaments and personalities, some better for working and some solely to serve as companions. In truth, during this time, anything resembling an adherence to a strict alpha pack structure was bred out of dogs. So, if strong, rigid dominance is off the table, what does the dog want from us as far as our relationship is concerned? I believe that if dogs could speak, they’d say high on their list is good leadership from their owners. Yes, they also want our love and companionship, but good leadership enhances their bonding to us, making a happier pet all around. Since good leadership is important to so many of our canine companions, it warrants a discussion about what good leadership is in our dogs’ eyes.

What good leadership is and is not Leadership training has nothing to do with establishing yourself as an alpha to the dog. The alpha concept, which includes using domination techniques, will actually perpetuate submissive peeing issues in some dogs. (In others, it might elicit aggression.) What leadership training entails is teaching the dog that you are the one in charge, and that you control all the resources. For example, let’s say Fido is chewing a bone. Since you are the leader, you control all the resources. That means you can go up and take away that bone any time you want. Of course, you don’t need to keep doing this over and over. Once the dog understands the rules, you’re likely to notice

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that they are more at ease because of understanding your role and theirs. The way you earned your leadership was by training the dog to relinquish things like bones, toys and food on command. This training is best accomplished using positive techniques. An added advantage to using positive techniques is that you create a more trusting and comfortable relationship between you and the dog that naturally defeats many house training issues, including submissive peeing. Dogs want a good leader to be in charge. A good leader to the dog is one who follows through to make sure a command is obeyed. A weak leader will tell a dog to do something and if the dog doesn’t do so, will not correct that situation, thus diminishing the human’s leadership. For example, let’s say you call your dog over to you. The dog seems not to hear you and keeps doing whatever he was already doing. The owner showing strong leadership will go over to the dog, who is probably sniffing something in the grass, take hold of the dog’s collar, repeat the “come” command, and lead the dog back to where the original command was given. In order to drive home the point that the owner is to be obeyed always, and not only when it is convenient to the dog, the owner asks the dog to sit. When the dog complies, the owner rewards him. Failure to follow through with a command is seen as a sign the owner is a weak leader. Punishing the dog for not complying can scare the dog or make him uncertain about coming over to the owner who is displaying anger when calling the dog to come. That is why punishment training is fraught with issues and should be avoided. These are concepts you need to explain to the dog owner. Dogs also want owners to take charge of the resources dogs consider important. Knowing that you will provide these things, but also that you control them, helps your dog see you as a leader. These resources include the sleeping areas, food, toys and sometimes even you. Some dogs will want to guard or possess an individual. This must not be allowed, both because it indicates ineffective leadership and because it can be dangerous. Commands that help secure strong leadership in your dog’s eyes include leave it, get it, drop it and watch. Dogs who look toward

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their owners for guidance via the watch command are showing security and trust in their leader. When you present yourself as a strong and secure leader, your dog feels safe and loved, and develops a strong bond with you. There are several resources to help people learn the best way to train a dog so the dog learns security and trust in their owner. My book Rescue Your Dog from Fear covers leadership training techniques in Chapter 9. In addition to leadership training, there is also information for dealing with insecurity in dogs and how to help build confidence in dogs.

Summary Submissive peeing is not a house training issue, even though peeing is involved. This is a relationship issue. The single biggest contributing factor to this problem is mistakes made by the dog owner. The dog’s personality and age are also contributing factors. By using the right techniques, dog owners can resolve this issue in their dog. However, the most important part of reform training begins with changes in the dog owner’s behavior. Once that is accomplished, with time and patience, the dog can overcome this unwanted behavior. One good way to help change miscommunication between dogs and their owners is for the dog owner to learn how to be a strong leader to their dog through training using positive techniques.

Reminder list for submissive peeing: • Understand the dog is not doing this out of defiance. • Understand the dog loves you and is trying hard to please you with the gift of a pee. • Work hard not to lose your temper when the dog pees. • Understand even subtle disapproval can trigger a submissive pee. • Work hard to keep the interactions with the dog upbeat. • Smile at the dog and use pleasant tones of voice. 143

7 Excitement/Greeting Peeing

The term “greeting peeing” is often used for both submissive peeing issues and peeing issues stemming from the dog getting too excited during the greeting process. I like to keep the concept of excitement peeing separate from submissive peeing, although both typically happen during the greeting process. The difference is that submissive peeing is associated with submissive behavior, while excitement peeing is the result of a weak bladder in an overly excited dog. It is important to realize that a dog who engages in excitement peeing can have submissive peeing issues. Furthermore, recognize that a dog owner can trigger submissive peeing in a dog when the owner “loses his or her cool” after a dog engages in excitement peeing. For that reason, this chapter will comment on both issues. However, the emphasis is on greeting peeing, which can be a stand-alone issue.

A “conversation” with Dr. Christensen about greeting peeing I had a discussion with E’Lise Christensen, DVM, DACVB, boardcertified veterinary behaviorist, on the topic of excitement peeing. Below is a summary of her thoughts, with some of my thoughts that followed.

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Dr. C: Dog owners may encounter issues with dogs urinating when people come into their home. Some dogs will respond to the owner’s arrival home, while others may respond to a guest coming over. Some dogs will respond to both. Greeting peeing can even occur when the owner’s dog encounters another dog. Urinating during a greeting can be the result of different motivations within the dog and isn’t considered that abnormal in many cases. Unfortunately, some of the reactions to the issue by dog owners can exacerbate the problem.

Me: With Dr. C’s talks about encounter and greeting issues, I interrupted to have her clarify if she was talking about greeting peeing or submissive peeing. Her response was that sometimes it can be difficult to know which you are dealing with. I had to agree. I have seen dogs who began with one problem, and due to the wrong kind of owner interactions developed the other issue.

Dr. C: Dr. C explained that one way to better understand excitement peeing was to reverse diagnose the problem. Dr. C looks to see if this behavior only happens during a greeting. She also wants to know if this happens in response to the owner when that owner is leaning over the dog. She explained that excitement peeing and submissive peeing are not that uncommon, especially in younger dogs, and that the straightforward issues are often resolved through a trainer with good behavior modification skills. Most of the cases that come to Dr. C are not the easy ones. One of the trickier cases she’d seen was one where the puppy, even when ignored, would follow the owner around. The moment the owner stopped walking, the dog would pee. Most behaviors are the result of a complex interplay between nature and nurture. In the previous example, although the dog’s nature may have been toward a more reactive bladder, the owner’s response nurtured the issue.

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Me: I totally agreed with Dr. C in regard to how greeting peeing issues result from a nature and nurture interplay. A dog with a weak bladder sphincter gets overexcited by an owner returning home, resulting in excitement peeing when greeting the owner. The owner then shows disapproval, leaving the dog to feel stressed and making the dog more likely to pee during the next encounter. After a while, the dog begins to pee more often with less cueing from the owner. The dog trainer also needs to keep in mind that there are many medical conditions that can increase the likelihood of a variety of types of house soiling.

Dr. C’s medical and behavioral approaches For Dr. C, it is the behavior issue that isn’t easily resolved that brings the client into her office. It then becomes her challenge to discover if there is a medical issue driving that behavior, or if the peeing behavior has become more chronic as a result of the owner’s negative response to the problem, or a combination of factors. These issues are not black and white. Dr. C explained that she typically handles her cases by first looking at the behavior. She also looks hard to find if the medical issue has a behavioral component. My takeaway from her information is that if you have a case where the behavior modification protocol that normally works for this issue is not successful, then it is time to seek the help of a veterinary behaviorist. I prefer sending a problem of this nature to a veterinary behaviorist over a regular veterinarian, because the issue can become a mixture of both medical and behavioral, and a veterinary behaviorist is more readily equipped to address both issues. When it comes to bladder issues in puppies, Dr. C will evaluate the puppy for sphincter integrity, as well as the dog’s ability to use the sphincter. She needs to find out if there are problems where the urethra goes into the bladder in the wrong place or other physical issues. With some dogs, a medical and emotional catalyst can work to become a self-perpetuating cycle. That is because excitement, stress or anxiety, such as what a dog may feel when interacting with an owner, can create peeing issues. A younger dog with a weaker bladder may begin peeing from the excitement of seeing an owner.

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However, disapproval from the owner can create stress or anxiety in the dog, which then creates a peeing response from the dog. This may perpetuate frustration and disapproval from the owner. If the owner becomes upset with the dog’s issues, this can create stress or anxiety in the dog, which can create the need to urinate more often, thus perpetuating the very problem the dog owner wants corrected. With greeting urinations, even those that have biological components, resolving the issue often requires educating the client as well. What a dog owner may need to learn is that their greeting style, which seems fine to them, can be interpreted by the dog as aggressive, threatening, or simply overwhelming. Although some puppies just put up with this, others may signal there is a problem with greeting urination. When working to rule out biological issues, Dr. C uses X-rays, ultrasounds, contrast studies of the urinary tract and other diagnostic tools to make sure the urinary tract is anatomically correct. A urinary culture may be done. If sphincter function is a problem, then there are ways to improve it, including medication, behavior work or both.

My thoughts on behavioral aspects When Dr. C talked about dog owners needing to learn that some dogs may interpret the owner’s greeting as aggressive, threatening, or overwhelming several thoughts came to my mind. Some people march directly toward a dog to greet him. This may be too intense for a more timid dog or a puppy going through a fear stage. Bending over a dog or puppy can be interpreted as a threat. And tone of voice isn’t always received by a dog as we intend. A chirpy or excited tone can be stressful for some dogs, while others seem to delight in that tone. And either the stressed or excited dog may urinate in this situation. Owners who ignore the dog’s cues about discomfort during the greeting process can easily create a situation that results in greeting peeing.

What we conclude We both agreed that dog owners who react negatively to a peeing issue can create a self-perpetuating cycle with a dog. The dog may pee because of the owner’s greeting habits, anything from too direct, too excited, too frenetic, or in a way the dog perceives as negative or 147

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even threatening. Unfortunately, what begins from one interaction between dog and owner can develop into other unwanted peeing behaviors in the dog when the owner begins to react adversely to the situation. To solve the issue, the dog trainer often needs to first retrain the owner and then work on retraining the dog. Keep in mind, with more sensitive dogs, even facial expressions or muscle stiffening from the owner may be enough to perpetuate this issue, since both can be taken as a threat.

This mill dog rescue is showing discomfort from interacting with me. Note the sideways head, lowered ears and slightly lowered shoulders.

Training the dog owner There are several training approaches to help resolve excitement peeing issues. But keep in mind that it is often necessary to work to retrain both the owner and the dog. I like to start with the owner. Just as it is helpful to learn to read dogs, it helps to look for frustration reactions from the owner when conversing on this topic. To begin

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the process of reforming the dog owner, it helps to get the owner to see a new perspective on the issue. It also helps to reassure the owner that, with the right kind of training, things can improve.

Talking with the owner When I talk to the owner, I first listen to everything they have to say on this subject without interruption. Having the owner give details about the issue may give clues about what parts of the greeting aren’t working. Listen for irritation in the owner’s tone of voice and look for tension in their body when talking about specific parts of the dog and owner interaction. After the owner has gotten these issues off their chest, it is a good idea to empathize. Begin with statements like “It is very frustrating when the dog you love does something that can be so upsetting,” and follow that with reassurance that this kind of problem has solutions, and that you are eager to get to work. This approach informs the owner that you understand their frustration and you are here to help resolve the situation. When it comes to house training issues like this, owners often take the problem personally. You need to help change that attitude rather than offering up a list of things the owner did wrong. By pointing out the cues the owner unintentionally gives and the results in the dog, you will give the owner a chance to view the situation from a different perspective. Using an analytical style of interaction can help the keep the conversation about cause and effect rather than making it something the dog owner needs to take personally. Too often, owners may think the dog does this because he doesn’t really love them the way they want him to. To help dispel that attitude, I talk matter-of-factly about how the process takes time, but I tell the owner that there are ways we can speed up the process. That is a good time to introduce the owner to certain behaviors that will help diminish the peeing response in the dog. During the discussion, I make the point that this is often an issue in a dog where the bladder function matures more slowly than with other dogs. I also tell them that some dogs will never have of the same level of bladder control as other dogs.

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Some owners are not going to have the kind of success you need when it comes to controlling their emotions about the dog peeing inside the house. For these situations, devices like britches or belly bands can again help the owner more easily get their emotions under control, thus helping to break a self-perpetuating cycle. These devices will keep the pee off of the floor and may keep the owner from having to fume while trying to clean things up. Over time, the owner can more readily learn to focus on the positive approach to a training solution and better control their negative response.

Retraining the owner I find it helpful to coach the dog owner on their approach and interactions with a dog who is having greeting peeing issues. Often, it is useful to give the owner a list they can review if they see the wrong response from the dog.

The dog is very uncertain about interacting with this client. Consider using a camera to snap photos when working to train dog owners. 150

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After I talked about cues and coached the client, the dog began to relax. Keep interactions low key. Don’t make direct eye contact. The owner may need to lure the dog outside using a treat when they first come inside the house. After the excitement of seeing each other has time to dissipate, the owner can work on a calmer greeting. Only greet when the dog has calmed down. A better greeting may be one where the owner is at the dog’s level. Don’t show any disapproval toward the dog having accidents: • Explain that the sooner the owner can learn not to show disapproval, the faster the dog can change unwanted habits. • Explain that regression can happen, but when handled correctly will resolve quickly. • Explain that if the owner makes a mistake, this is not the time to give up, but to regroup and recommit to their work. If there is a situation where the owner had success, that is a good place 151

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to restart the training and have the owner focus on moving forward from that point. • If the dog seems to be stuck in a regression, feel out if the owner is showing any kind of disapproval. Go through a check list with the owner for unintentional disapproval cues: • Direct eye contact • Tension in the body • Tone of voice • Directly approaching the dog • Bending over the dog

Training the dog Dogs often get into habits, just like we do. Once the dog owner has changed their habits of greeting the dog away from ones that can trigger a peeing episode, it is time to change the dog’s habit of peeing. Below are a few techniques that can help.

The luring technique Some dogs can more readily learn to change their behavior if they are allowed time to settle down after the owner arrives home and before the dog greets the owner. It is important to note that, for a dog to pee, the dog typically needs to squat somewhat; even males will lower their back ends. With some excited dogs, they will engage in a kind of dance where they also lower their back end to pee. The luring technique works in two ways. First it allows the dog time to settle down after the owner arrives home, and second, the luring process helps keep the dog from getting into the squatting position that accompanies peeing. By keeping the dog moving forward, peeing becoming less likely.

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Luring the dog can help distract him from peeing. Put the treat under the dog’s nose and immediately coax him to move forward, out of a sit or squat. Executing the luring technique. To use the luring technique, the dog owner needs to come through the door armed with a high-value treat. That treat should be put under the dog’s nose immediately. As soon as the dog has his attention on the treat, the owner needs to lure the dog toward an outside door. Once at the door the owner can toss the treat outside for the dog to retrieve. Be aware it may take some practice for the dog to learn to focus on the treat and to realize that the goal of following the treat is to get the reward once outside. That means that in the beginning of this training, a dog may pee some before beginning to allow himself to be lured all the way to an outside area. Troubleshooting the luring technique. If, after several attempts at luring the dog to an outside door, the dog is still peeing first, some additional training can be employed. Do this training at a time the

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owner is not coming home and greeting the dog. Have the owner pick up a high-value treat and go to the entry door. The owner is to step outside and close the door. Then after a moment, the owner can step inside and present the treat so the dog can sniff it. Once the dog is focused on the treat, the owner will use it to lure the dog to the door to go outside. After several successful repetitions, the owner can increase the amount of time they wait before coming back through that door. With some dogs, it may also work to say the word “treat,” then present the treat. This can help to more quickly teach the dog that the owner coming through the door means it’s time to be lured outside with a treat. Bring the dog back inside. Once the dog is outside, leave him there until the owner has time to sit and get settled in. This can help foster a low-key and calm greeting. Some dogs do best when their owner is sitting down. The owner can call the dog over, creating a walking action that may prevent squatting and peeing. If the dog slows when he arrives, the owner may want to toss a treat and tell the dog to “get it.” This will disrupt a shift to a peeing posture. After a few repetitions of “get it,” the owner can again try and get the dog to approach to eat a treat from their hand. If that is successful, the owner can pet the dog.

Greeting training Some dogs may really struggle with greeting calmly when the owner comes home. One idea is to do greeting practices when the dog is less excited. To do this, make sure the dog is calm. Then have the owner calmly come over and greet the dog. If this goes well after a few repetitions, the owner can begin to walk out of the room, come back in and greet the dog. When the dog learns to greet the owner after the owner disappears for a short period of time, the duration of the disappearance can be extended. Next, have the owner walk to the door, open and close the door without leaving, then walk over and greet the dog. If the dog responds well to that, the owner can step outside then come right back in and greet the dog. Once the dog learns to greet the owner

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calmly after the owner steps outside briefly, the owner can begin to lengthen the time before coming back in to greet the dog. If the dog regresses at any step, then the owner needs to go to a step where there was success, and practice that until the dog has accomplished repeated success at that level. Make sure the owner pays attention to their body language and if they are bending to greet or greeting at the dog’s level. When the owner finds a technique to greet the dog where the dog can remain calm, the owner needs to do that kind of greeting when arriving home after a long departure.

With some dogs, getting down to their level and using a rub to the chest area is calming.

Emphasize the role of the owner Let the dog owner know that changing habits takes time for both dog and human. Disapproval will add to the time needed to change an unwanted behavior. The owner needs to keep in mind that even if the dog messes up, they must not show disapproval. Disapproval can create stress in the dog, which will exacerbate the problem. Encourage the owner to work with the end goal in mind. Explain that the better the owner gets at responding appropriately when greeting the dog, or responding appropriately if there is an accident, the sooner long-term success can be achieved. Be sure to tell the owner that, for

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some dogs, even an owner’s overly happy behavior can create stress for the dog. The owner needs to watch for this issue and learn to adjust to the dog’s needs.

Case Studies Helen’s dog peed when she came home Helen was a dog trainer who had an Australian Shepherd named Baxter, who responded to her arrival home with pee. Helen knew not to lean over the dog, so submission wasn’t the issue. However, just stepping through the door caused Baxter’s behind to wiggle, and then the pee came splashing. To counter this problem, Helen learned that, instead of loading her arms with groceries to carry inside, she could grab a high-value treat she kept just outside the door in a sealed container. When Helen opened the door, she would not speak or make eye contact, but move efficiently to shove the treat under Baxter’s nose. Once he had a moment to catch hold of the scent, Helen would lure him to the door that led to the dog pen and put him outside. Helen then tossed the treat outside for Baxter to retrieve. After this, she could put away the groceries, and once she was ready to settle in, she would open the door for Baxter to come in. Again, without any eye contact, she would calmly walk to a chair and sit down. Once Baxter settled down, she’d greet him while sitting in the chair. After using this strategy for a couple of months, Baxter learned not to pee when Helen came home.

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If the dog tends to pee during indoor greetings, consider working greetings outside, provided the dog doesn’t engage in greeting peeing outdoors as well.

Doggy daycare pickup was splash time Harvey, a Golden Retriever, stayed at a daycare center while his owners were at work. When they arrived to pick him up, an attendant would bring Harvey to the front counter. Unfortunately, even though he was over a year old, he still did a greeting dance and splashed pee the moment he saw his owners. I had Harvey at my house for a week-long board and train. His owners requested that I work on insecurity issues as well as his leash reactivity. During the week, Harvey made some good progress with those issues. Although the daycare splash wasn’t on the training list, when Harvey’s owners came to pick him up, I wanted to address that issue as well.

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I instructed the owners to park the car about 30 feet away from my back door and to call me when they were situated. I fitted Harvey with a head halter because it would allow me control of his head, thus control his focus. As soon as I stepped outside of the doorway, I gave Harvey a moment to glance at his owners, who were still sitting in the car. It only takes a glance for a dog to recognize an owner’s car with them inside when the dog is familiar with the vehicle. After that recognition glance, I got Harvey to move forward. Remember, dogs who engage in excitement peeing need to squat at least somewhat, even if they tend to pee while slowly moving forward or doing a dance. Walking forward at my pace kept him out of the peeing position. Instead of approaching directly, I used circles to make an indirect approach to the car. As soon as Harvey showed a bit of excitement about approaching his car, I turned him in a circle. This is where the head halter proved to be very handy. I could keep him from trying to look back toward the car, and more easily keep going in a gentle circular path that broke his attention from his owners. My pace was calm and unhurried. When I came back around to where his owners were again in view, I moved indirectly toward their vehicle. If Harvey showed any hint of excitement, I again led him in a circular path. I kept doing these circles, gradually working my way toward the car. By the time I arrived, Harvey was able to greet his owners without doing his splash dance or any kind of peeing.

When a dog has both submissive and excitement peeing issues Kayla, the terrier I talked about in the chapter on submissive peeing, had both submissive peeing and excitement peeing issues. Dave had a lot of difficulty dealing with this very sensitive dog. He struggled working through the submissive peeing problem. When he finally seemed to have success with that, Kayla began to display excitement peeing. Dave quickly became frustrated. For what seemed like too brief a time for him, Kayla didn’t have a peeing issues, then the excitement peeing kicked in. To solve Kayla’s issues, human behavior once

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again needed to be modified. Unfortunately, since Dave found any kind of urination in the house an irritation, his responses to Kayla’s excitement peeing began to cause her to regress with the submissive peeing. Both of Kayla’s owners were again wondering if they should give up on owning this dog. I went right to work to encourage both Dave and Nancy, telling them that the excitement peeing was also resolvable, and that Kayla could regain the lost ground with the submissive peeing. I asked them about what was going on when Kayla peed. The most common time was when Dave grabbed the leash to take her for a walk. Dave unintentionally got Kayla too excited when it was walk time. I worked through some ideas for how Dave could change the situation when he came to collect Kayla for her walk. I suggested that Dave hide the leash behind his back, then calmly approach her, stopping a short distance before reaching her. Then he could squat down and call Kayla to him, and when she reached him he was to rub Kayla’s chest and stroke under her chin to make sure she was relaxed. If that went well, he could quietly attach the leash and turn around, allowing Kayla to follow outside. I told him that at no time was he to use an excited tone with Kayla. I also told him that if she urinated, he needed to review what he was doing and see if he’d done anything to excite or intimidate her. Finally, I told him that it would be helpful if he recognized a reduction in urine volume as a step in the right direction. He needed to accept that typically these issues slowly improve rather than suddenly stopping. He tried these techniques, and with a little practice and paying attention to his actions, he began to have success. Although it took time, by a year and a half of age, Kayla had stopped having both types of peeing issues and secured a permanent home with Dave and Nancy.

Empathy is part of the solution

My experience with Kayla and her owners came early in my career working with dogs. One of the things I learned with this case was the importance of helping owners cope with their frustration when working with certain issues. I’ve observed that house training issues have a tendency to cause

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owners to become highly frustrated. For that reason, I’ve found it necessary to hone my skills in working with people to help reduce their frustration. There are a lot of books on the market that can help with people skills. However, one of the techniques I’m now working to hone is called mirroring. With a mirroring technique, you repeat back to a client the elements of the frustration the client is experiencing. This can be done almost word for word, or by repeating the same concept. For example, the client might say, “This dog always pees, no matter what I do.” You could then repeat back something like, “It sounds like you are getting frustrated that your dog is still peeing too much of the time.” Mirroring comes across as empathy. Your show of empathy often helps the dog owner cope with the issue, thus opening the door to the owner having the patience needed for the dog to change. Even though you may have become a dog trainer with the intent to focus on working with dogs, it is often necessary to develop skills to help ease frustration in a dog owner, and to find ways of encouraging the owner so the dog can have the opportunity and time needed to change unwanted behaviors.

Summary There are a lot of elements in play when it comes to excitement/ greeting peeing issues. Dogs can have developmental challenges when it comes to bladder control. However, what often exacerbates the problem is the owner’s interactions with the dog. Some owners will overexcite a dog during the greeting process. If the dog is younger and has not developed good bladder control, this can cause issues with excitement peeing. This problem can take on a life of its own if the owner shows disapproval, resulting in a dog who begins to learn to pee during any sort of greeting, or who pees at the slightest excitement or stress. With some cases, the intervention of a veterinary behaviorist is necessary. If the situation is one that can be handled by the dog

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trainer, there are several techniques to use to improve the situation. When it comes to retraining the dog, keeping the dog moving and out of the squatting to pee position is very helpful while working to remedy the behavior. However, with this kind of problem, it is often necessary to work equally hard retraining the owner. If you encounter an owner who has a lot of frustration or anger about the peeing situation, you will need to hone your skills in dealing empathetically with the owner, as well as find ways to encourage the owner so the dog has a chance to improve.

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8 Solving Male Marking Issues

Male marking is another problem some dog owners may find difficult to solve. Fortunately, this issue does have a lot of solutions. Surprisingly, those dogs people perceive as “alpha” dogs are not the primary perpetrators of marking behavior. More often, the insecure dog becomes a tenacious marker. Correcting male marking often calls for more than strapping on a belly band. Dog trainers may need to discover what is driving the marking and work to resolve an underlying problem before retraining can be successful. Dog trainers also need to help clients learn how to wean a dog off of a belly band when one has been used. In addition to the mistaken notion that male marking is due to the dog being alpha or dominant, another false belief is that simply neutering an intact male will stop a marking habit. For some intact males, neutering will help; however, typically more training is needed to help curb the habit. There are a variety of reasons that dogs mark in the house, and it is useful to understand what is driving the behavior when searching for the best approach to solving male marking. In this chapter, you will find the most common reasons driving male marking and ways to approach retraining. Since females also mark, a discussion will be included about that issue as well.

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The goal of marking is to leave a scent.

Facts about marking behaviors The function of urination is to eliminate waste products from the body that were filtered by the kidneys. Urinating on a regular basis keeps a dog healthy. Marking behaviors are not solely about getting rid of urine. Marking with urine is driven by a dog’s desire to leave his scent. Dogs who are working to get rid of urine will expel a larger volume, typically in one area. Dogs who are marking will expel small amounts often spread around on different areas. Marking behaviors are seen in both males and females. However, not all males and females are inclined to mark. In general, a higher percentage of male dogs mark than females. Dogs who are intact are more likely to mark than dogs who are neutered and spayed. Not all intact males will mark. Otis, the poodle I talked about in other areas of this book, was used in a puppy mill for breeding until 3 years of age. After he was surrendered to a rescue, he was neutered. He never marked or hiked his leg. Conversely, his housemate, the Chihuahua named Albert who came from the same puppy mill, was

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also surrendered and neutered at 3 years of age. Albert loved to hike his leg on everything. When it comes to neutering male dogs who mark, it is important to realize that training in addition to neutering may be needed to stop marking behavior.

Both of these female dogs are sniffing an area where another dog left a urine scent. Like males, females who mark expel smaller amounts of urine. If you are trying to decide if a female expelling a small amount of urine is marking, as opposed to having issues with her urinary tract, her behavior can give you clues. Urinary infections typically arrive with a change in frequency in urination: For example, a dog who tends to only go a few times a day, or once or twice during a walk, now goes more frequently. The volume also decreases. For some dogs with urinary tract infections, the urge to urinate may come on so quickly that the dog has accidents inside the house. While females who mark

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may also go more often and expel smaller amounts, this behavior is not a sudden change. The marking female typically sniffs an area where another dog has left scent, may slightly cock a back leg, then the dog urinates. Keep in mind that females who mark on a regular basis may on occasion contract a urinary infection.

One of the dogs walks a short distance away and hikes her leg to mark.

General guidelines for retraining a dog who marks Sometimes fixing the underlying cause of the marking is enough to stop the behavior, but often times the dog will need to be specifically trained not to mark in the house. However, just like with the go-to method in Chapter 1 of this book, there are general guidelines for retraining a dog who marks. Although the information is presented with a male dog in mind, the techniques can be adapted for females. With females, frustration marking or insecurity marking are more common inside the house. In general, females do not mark territory inside the house.

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training is accomplished in a similar fashion to the go-to method with a few modifications. This technique can also work for retraining a dog who marks for other reasons. If the dog goes over to a marking area, the dog owner should call the dog away, preferably before the dog marks. The dog then needs to be taken outside and encouraged to mark out there. Have the owner be ready to reward the dog for correct behavior.

Learning marking patterns To facilitate interrupting and redirecting the dog from marking in the house, owners need to become observant as to when and where the dog may mark inside the house. With some dogs, the marking behavior will follow certain triggers or occur at specific times. A good strategy to begin learning the dog’s marking behavior is to discover where the dog is marking. Once those areas are identified and cleaned up as discussed below, the owner will then need to be watchful for times when the dog goes toward the marking area, particularly if the dog looks like he’s “on a mission.” If this happens, the owner should call the dog away and take him outside. It will be helpful for the dog owner if you discuss some of the triggers that lead to marking are listed later in the chapter. Training the owners to be more watchful of the dog will help them to interrupt any possible marking. The dog can then be redirected to go outside and rewarded for the correct marking behavior.

Challenges with watching a dog who marks When it comes to watching closely in an effort to intercept a dog who wants to mark, some dog owners may not be as vigilant as they need to be. There will also be times when the owner can’t watch the dog. For those situations a belly band can help. Below are some rules for using a belly band. Dogs who can’t be watched can be tethered to the owner so the dog can’t wander off and mark. For some dogs, crates can also be used.. If a crate or tether is used, when the dog is taken out of the crate, have the owner take him outside and encourage him to urinate.

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Cleanup is the first step with any marking issue The dog owner needs to be instructed that, to change the habit in the dog, a thorough cleanup of any and all areas that are soiled is necessary. As with all other house training messes, an enzymatic cleaner is the best approach. Nature’s Miracle was one of the first on the market, and now has a cleaner that is specific for removal of urine and the accompanying smell. Black lights can also be used to look for urine inside the house.

Encouraging a dog to urinate outside Some dogs may not mark outside when taken there to encourage the correct behavior. Some troubleshooting may be necessary. Make sure the dog owner isn’t upsetting the dog when interrupting the marking. You may need to explain that even if the dog is beginning to expel urine, they should not yell at or scold the dog. It is better to call the dog away from the activity with an encouraging tone of voice. With some dogs, it may work to place a high-value treat under the dog’s nose and lure him outside. In the beginning of training, owners can expect to continue regular cleanup.

Training a peeing cue The owner may find it helpful to train a peeing cue when working to get a dog to urinate outside. To teach a cue, have the dog owner say the cue word or phrase while the dog is urinating in an appropriate place. For example, when the dog hikes a leg outdoors, the owner can say “let’s pee.” After the dog hears “let’s pee” a few times while urinating, the owner can then say “let’s pee” before the dog goes to a common peeing area. Encourage the dog owner to be observant about areas in the yard where the dog likes to mark. If trying to get the dog to learn the “let’s pee” command isn’t working in the back yard, the owner may try training this when they are out on a walk where the dog is more likely to mark. Another idea for encouraging the dog to learn to pee on command is to have a male guest dog visit the yard and mark a specific area. The owner can follow behind with the dog in training and use the “let’s pee” cue, then let the household dog mark. Once the dog pees, the owner can say “good, let’s pee” and give the reward.

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Males can be trained to pee on cue. Caution the owner that with some dogs, the timing of giving the dog praise can make a difference in the dog’s response. For some dogs, it works fine to say “good, let’s pee” when the dog first begins to pee. However, with other dogs this might interrupt the process. The owner needs to be careful about watching for this kind of reaction in the dog, and be sure not to cut the process short.

Rules for using a belly band One of the people I consulted with recently informed me that belly bands for males are getting incredibly inexpensive. These devices that go around a dog’s belly to capture urine are called by other names, including diapers. Some are disposable and come with a wetness indicator. Years ago, before these items were so cheap and easy to acquire, I used to make my own with a strip of blue denim material, some Velcro and a feminine pad.

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Belly bands quickly became popular, but when owners don’t use them correctly, they often give up on the devices. When consulting with people who are trying to change a male marking problem, don’t be surprise if the dog owner has already tried a belly band but abandoned it. If you decide this kind of device will help, you may need to encourage the owner to try again, then counsel the owner about better techniques that will help bring success. If the people had issues with the belly band rubbing or irritating the dog, encourage the owner to try another brand, or to consider making one themselves. Belly bands help stop marking in a variety of ways, including: • Some dogs don’t like the feel of the urine caught in the belly band. • The band can allow you to better determine urination patterns to help reform unwanted behaviors. • The band prevents the dog from leaving a scent when attempting to mark. 169

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Belly bands can be homemade to custom fit a dog by using a strip of fabric, a couple of safety pins and a sanitary pad.

Detecting marking patterns I like to use the belly band to keep a dog from marking as well as to determine when the dog is marking. I find this device can be used to communicate with a dog about not marking inside. I often use the belly band when I’m not able to observe the dog. At times I also use a crate or tether the dog to me to make sure the dog doesn’t sneak away and mark. When the dog has a belly band on, I try and keep an eye on him to see if I can detect a pattern of where and when the dog is hiking a leg in the house. If the dog wanders off, I quietly follow him, or if I missed that chance, I go look for him. When I find him, I check to see if there is any pee in the belly band. That helps me to learn marking patterns and marking areas. If I happen to see the dog hike a leg with the belly band on, I call the dog to go outside. Of course I take the belly band off at the door. Then, if needed, I will put on a clean belly band when the dog comes back in. 170

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Communicating with a dog about inappropriate peeing Though it may or may not help, when I find pee in a belly band, I try and communicate to the dog using the pee in the belly band. To do this, I bring the urinated-on portion of the belly band close enough to the dog’s nose so he can smell his own urine. Then I use an encouraging tone to say “outside” and take the dog outside. Once outside, I work to get the dog to mark there so I can reward him for correct behavior. By keeping on top of any marking and working to change the behavior of the dog, I typically find I can wean the dog completely off of a belly band.

Weaning a dog off of a belly band When weaning a dog off of a belly band, I often want him to have no urine in the band at all for about a month. Once the belly band is off, I carefully monitor the dog. Since by this time I am well-informed about when and where the dog marks, I make sure to check areas for urine if I have any doubts. If for any reason the dog regresses, I can best work to solve the problem if I discover it right away. Sometimes I will again put on the belly band for a week or two, and then try it off again. I have found that for a lot of dogs, teaching them not to mark inside will take about three or four months when I am working diligently. I also have found that putting the belly band back on, then again trying without one is often part of the weaning-off process.

Different reasons males will mark There are a variety of reasons a male dog will take up marking in the home. Understanding what is driving the behavior is often useful when working to retrain the dog. Some of the most common reasons that male dogs mark in the house include: • The dog was never trained not to mark. • The dog is feeling insecure. • The dog needs stronger leadership to encourage him to follow the rules about not marking in the house. •

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• The dog is feeling frustrated. • The dog is exchanging scents with another male and needs to be taught this can only happen outside. • The dog is experiencing separation anxiety.

The dog was never trained not to mark Sometimes, after the dog owner has success in house training a dog, male marking crops up. That is because male marking is associated with sexual maturity, which begins on average between 6 and 9 months of age, or later in giant breeds. Even with dogs who learn how to go outside to do their business, teaching a dog not to mark in a house may be a separate process. Even a dog who understands going outside to answer the call of nature may not see it as a problem to leave scent inside the house via marking.

The insecure marker Lisa and Tom had called me to their house because one of their dogs, Toby, was marking. When I arrived, I was greeted by two pugs who snorted and sniffed and wagged their tails. The third dog, a pug mix named Toby who was the problem child, was wandering off toward the kitchen. He was a newer arrival to the household, having been adopted about a year ago. Lisa and Tom informed me that Toby was “the alpha of the pack.” They believe this was the case because Toby had taken up marking right away, and now Chip, their other male, was also beginning to mark. A common misperception is that the dog who is most dedicated to marking is the “alpha male.” I can’t completely blame this couple for jumping to that conclusion. “Alpha” and “dominance” were terms used to explain problematic behaviors in dogs for too many years. However, I was quick to notice that, while Chip and the female pug quickly greeted me, Toby had retreated. After sitting and listening to the history for all three, I asked if we could go and see if Toby had perhaps marked right after I’d arrived. We walked to the kitchen and found evidence that he had.

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Dogs of any breed can be trained not to pick fights. In addition to the marking, Toby’s owners felt he was “alpha” because of his behavior toward their other two dogs. Toby would at times pick fights. People too often assume that a dog who starts a fight is doing so because the dog is securing his or her pack status. There are an abundance of reasons I’m contacted about dogs who are fighting. Jealousy and possessiveness of an owner’s attention is very common. Lack of structure in the group of dogs and lack of leadership from the owners often create an environment that supports squabbles. I describe good leadership with dogs as being a lot like good parenting. For example, if you have two children who get into an intense fight over a toy, it is not a good idea to let them physically fight to decide which child gets the toy. Although some children can sort out their differences without violence, violence must not be allowed. The same is true with dogs. As a good dog owner, you set rules for good behavior. Instead of allowing dogs to fight it out, you should step in and let them know that fighting is not allowed in this house. Good leadership includes you teaching the dog that you own everything, so there is nothing for the dogs to fight over. You are the leader, you are in charge, and as the leader, you allow the dogs to play with toys or chew a bone. Dogs need and want rules, and good rules and structure help keep multi-dog households amiable. Toby needed leadership training and to be taught he couldn’t pick fights with the other dogs over attention or possessions. These rules

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can be taught with positive training of commands like leave it and drop it, as well as impulse control. For a lot of dogs, training them to respect the rules helps them feel more secure. This is critical when dealing with an insecure marker, which Toby was. Insecure markers tend to slink away when they feel uncomfortable, uncertain or threatened. As they retreat, they leave their scent. It seems as if they are trying to say, “This house is already occupied by me. So back off, pleeeeease.” It appears the dog is using marking to help secure territory in hopes of keeping safe. I suspected Toby was under-socialized when his owners adopted him. That made him less secure about strangers coming over to the house. Since he was uncomfortable with my arrival, he marked once he was far enough away to feel secure enough to hike his leg. I explained to his owners that Toby needed both his lack of socialization and his insecurity to be addressed. I told them that at no time should he be disciplined for his issues. Training using positive techniques would build Toby’s confidence, whereas punishment would exacerbate the fear issues and may make the marking worse. I explained about leadership training to help Toby’s insecurity. I then informed the owners that Toby’s marking issue could also be addressed at the same time. To begin working on the marking issues, I suggested the following: • If someone was expected to come over, they could use a belly band, since watching Toby wasn’t easy while interacting with the people coming into the house. • If possible, the owners needed to interrupt Toby when he began to retreat. For example, they could use a leash to keep him from walking away and marking after someone enters the house. (Note: For some dogs, being forced to remain near a stranger they are scared of is intensely aversive and could increase the drive to mark. If a dog is too timid about strangers to use a leash, he should be crated when someone comes over. The crate needs to be placed in an area where the owner can keep an eye on the dog and make sure he is not showing signs of distress.) 174

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To completely retrain an insecure marker, it is often necessary to socialize the dog in a safe and positive way, in an effort to reduce the insecurity, before you work on changing the marking habit. Once the dog feels more secure about strangers coming into the house, a lot of the training to address the habit includes interrupting the dog before he can mark, and encouraging him to go outside. As mentioned, for some dogs, using a crate can help.

Intact males encountering females in heat The decision to keep male dogs intact is becoming more popular in recent years. I still vividly recall a 5-year-old male dog who had never marked in the house immediately hiking a leg in the presence of a female in heat. His owners were shocked. I wasn’t. This is a strong, biologically driven response. Although I’ve known of some people who can train a male not to mark inside a house in the presence of a female in heat, the amount of diligent work this takes is generally beyond what the average dog owner is willing to undertake. For that reason, I recommend the use of a belly band when intact males will be encountering females in heat.

Frustration elimination including barrier frustration Frustration is the feeling of being upset or agitated, especially because of inability to change or achieve something. Barriers, including gates, fences, windows and even leashes, can frustrate dogs. Dogs can experience frustration, stress and sometimes increased aggression when they view another dog out a window. A dog being held back when he wants to join his owner may become frustrated. For some dogs, the feeling of frustration results in the dog peeing in a marking manner. Males and females alike can display this behavior. One dog who showed frustration elimination lived on a corner lot. He would look out a back patio door, displaying anxious behavior whenever another dog would go by. When the dog being walked disappeared around the house, the anxious dog would rush to the front door to again view the dog. On the way, he hiked his leg on a television stand in the living room.

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Another example of marking due to frustration was a dog who was left inside a canopy enclosure while her owner left with her second dog to practice an agility jump. The female rushed to the edge of the screen enclosure and watched the owner take the other dog over a small jump. The contained dog then ran to the other side of the enclosure and peed on a leash. This dog was likely frustrated that she wasn’t with her owner doing the practice jump.

This was the canopied enclosure where the dog who was left behind ran over and peed on a leash. With some dogs, crates can help lower frustration. But the secret is to not only crate the dog, but to turn the crate around or block the dog’s view another way so he can’t view what is frustrating or agitating him. Without blocking the dog’s view, the crate itself can become a barrier that increases his sense of frustration. The crated dog can also be given a chew item or some other tasty distraction that takes a while to consume. When dealing with dogs who eliminate from frustration, interrupting the dog is key. Since the female dog was known to get frustrated about the owner doing agility with another dog, a second person needed to be watchful at those times, and ready to interrupt her from dashing over and peeing on things inside the enclosure. In her case, it may have been beneficial to attach a leash to the dog, to stop her from rushing past the assistant when going to urinate on an item.

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Dogs who pee on food dishes I’ve seen situations where both male and female dogs have marked a food dish. I suspect several things can drive this kind of behavior including jealousy or possessiveness, as well as some mentioned already, like frustration and insecurity. The first line of defense is to try and figure out when the behavior is happening and what happened before the dog marked or peed on a food dish. That allows the owner to interrupt the behavior, which can help in retraining the dog. If the dog is jealous or possessive, then leadership training may also be helpful.

Competitive marking Competitive marking is exhibited when a visiting male dog arrives to a house that has a male dog in residence, and both dogs gleefully hike a leg. Females may also engage in this kind of behavior as they mark over where they smell another dog’s scent. As long as this happens outside, I don’t try and change the behavior. However, some dogs may need to be trained to wait until they are outside to engage in this exchange of scents. When you are dealing with two males who have taken up competitive marking inside the house, you can work to retrain the dogs by using a leash and planning their meetings. With leashes attached, let the household dog and the newcomer briefly sniff noses. Then tell the dogs “outside” and put them outside where they can proceed to exchange pees. After you show this process to the dog owner, explain that this process will need to be repeated for a while. If the dogs begin to lead the way outside after they sniff noses, then the owner can allow the dogs to meet off leash. Be aware if the household dog has established a habit of competitive peeing when greeting another dog, the dog may take up the habit of marking inside the house in other circumstances. For that reason, changing this habit as quickly as possible is important. You will need to help the dog owner to look for all possible areas where the dog may have marked in the house and make sure cleanup is thorough.

Separation anxiety Dogs may mark as a result of separation anxiety. When separation anxiety is the cause, typically the marking only happens when the

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owner leaves, even if the owner is gone a relatively short period of time. As with any marking behavior, diligent cleanup is very important. And although applying a belly band while the owner is gone is helpful, more training is recommended since the separation anxiety issues may increase over time.

Dogs who can’t tolerate an owner leaving the room may display separation anxiety issues by urinating or defecating when the owner leaves the house. I addressed how to help dogs overcome separation anxiety in Chapter 3, so here I will just give a brief review. When dealing with separation anxiety, one of the first things I do is look at the relationship between the dog and owner. One way owners may encourage insecurity about their departure is the way they interact with a dog when leaving and/ or coming home. Caution the owner that departures and arrivals need to be kept low-key. Have the owner observe if the dog gets nervous about specific departure cues, such as putting on shoes or reaching for keys. The dog may need to be desensitized to those cues. Explain to clients that habits take time to change in a dog, even after the owner adjusts their departure and arrival habits. With some dogs, it may help to give the dog something like a chew bone as a distraction.

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While working to change the dog’s habit, it often helps to employ a belly band. If after a week or two where the owner has adjusted their departure protocol and desensitized the dog to their leaving cues, if the dog is not improving, then the owner may want to add more training specifically to address the separation anxiety. A technique I have found a lot of success with is called the I’ll Be Back technique. This can be found on the DVD Separation Anxiety, A Weekend Technique.

A look at female marking Some females will mark. There is a difference between regular peeing, marking behavior and urinary infections. When the female is outside marking you may observe her going to a place where another dog has left urine scent. The dog will sniff, then pee. Sometimes she will situate herself so she can expel urine over the other urine and she may at times cock a back leg. As with males, smaller amounts are expelled. Females who are not marking are more likely to squat and expel a larger volume of urine. Sometimes a female may urinate several times without sniffing the area. She will just squat at an unexpected time and pee. Dogs who do this need to be checked for a urinary infection, even if they have been known to mark at times.

This is one kind of female britches, which are also called diapers.

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With females who mark inside, devices such as diapers or britches used for females in heat will catch urine. On that note, it isn’t unusual for females who are approaching their first heat cycle to begin to expel small amounts of urine inside the house. Britches or a diaper may need to be employed, as well as thorough cleanup. Often this issue resolves after the first heat cycle. However, eradicating or preventing urine smell inside the house will help ensure that this does not become a habit after the heat cycle. Like male dogs, females may pee inside the house due to insecurity. Once I had someone visit my house with their female dog. Moments after coming into my home, she squatted and peed. The amount of urine was indicative of marking. I realized the dog was feeling insecure in my home, and that initiated the peeing issue. The dog needed some work with feeling secure in new places and with different people. Socializing this dog helped eliminate this behavior.

Case study: Albert, the Marking King I’ve already mentioned Albert the Chihuahua, a rescued mill dog I fostered. When Albert came to my home, he had never been house trained. In fact, at 4 years old, he’d never been in a home. Before he arrived to my house, he’d lived three years in a mill dog breeding facility, and one year in kennels at a rescue. I will admit that I had concerns about his training. As mentioned in Chapter 5, the first challenge with Albert was that he was extremely fearful of people. In addition to being poorly socialized due to having lived in a breeding facility, I suspected an abuse history because he showed behavior patterns similar to those I’ve seen in animals I’ve known to be abused, including fear biting. I knew I had to deal with the fear issues before house training Albert. However, another thing concerned me. While I’d already had success training a male used for breeding purposes to no longer mark in the house, Albert was a little different. I’d never encountered a dog who transitioned so quickly from acting uncertain in a new environment to marching over to several areas and hiking his leg with enthusiasm. Because of this, I sensed that he found marking incredibly rewarding,

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which would make it a more challenging behavior to extinguish than if he were marking due to uncertainty or just out of habit.

Extra plastic helped contain Albert’s urination in this wire crate. Since Albert needed to stay in a crate during the beginning of his training, I lined the outside of the crate with plastic to protect my carpet. The next step was to get his fear issues under control. This took several months. But during that time, I was able to get him to learn to go outside first thing in the morning. His regular house training was progressing. When I finally got him over his fear biting, I was able to employ a belly band. With Albert in a belly band, I would let him hang out in the house without worrying about him marking successfully. I tried to keep an eye on him to see if I could catch him hiking a leg, since identifying marking patterns is so helpful when working toward reform. I also checked the belly band often. There were times I found that he’d peed when I hadn’t seen. I let him smell the pee, then put him out in

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a his pen for a short time. He was still uncertain enough about me that he would not have been comfortable peeing in that outside pen if I went with him, so I would peek out a window and hope he would do something. If he did, I let him back in using a happy voice. I noticed that this sensitive dog reacted well to happy tones, and knew from experience with other sensitive dogs that Albert couldn’t endure any sternness from me.

Albert models his homemade belly band. After the first month of marking training, I began to notice that the amount Albert was peeing into the belly band was diminishing. At the end of the second month, there was even less. I suspected he didn’t like the feel of the pee against him. I kept up with encouraging him by rewarding outdoor elimination and putting him out often. I’d also identified some of the times he most liked to pee, and would call him to go outside at those times instead. By the third month he began to have dry spells. I took off the belly band and dedicated extra time to watching him so he could hang out in the house for long periods of time with no belly band on. It helped to know his marking habits, which I’d studied carefully while the belly band was on, and confirmed by frequent checks.

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With intermittent use of the belly band, Albert did occasionally have some pee in it. This went on for a couple of weeks. After that, for the next two weeks, the band stayed dry. I progressed to leaving the belly band off, but kept a close eye on him around the times and places he was likely to mark. Once in a while, I’d again put on the belly band to make sure he hadn’t regressed with his marking. His belly band remained dry, so I decided he’d graduated. However, I did watch him closely for a few more weeks. Sometime later, when the two of us were in a far-off room, he seemed to forget himself, and hiked his leg on a chair. While his leg was hiked, I told him “no, no” in an upbeat tone, because I knew he wouldn’t be frightened by that tone. He stopped what he was doing; if a dog could look a bit embarrassed, he did. That seemed to be all he needed to quit completely. He didn’t exhibit any marking behavior after that, nor did he revert to the habit when he went to his forever home.

If you can’t watch the dog when training, consider tethering the dog. Never leave a tethered dog unattended.

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Case study: Smoke and Manning Smoke, a Chihuahua, was adopted from the humane society at about 11 months of age. About a year later they adopted another small female Chihuahua. Smoke’s owners, Cindy and Steve, noted that Smoke had always had a marking problem in the house, but they were not sure how to address the issue. They tried a belly band at one time, but Smoke got good at slipping out of that. At 9 years of age—yes, they tolerated the marking for eight years—it was time for a change. That was in part because, between Smoke and a third dog, Manning, a 3-year-old Brittany Spaniel, things were really getting out of hand. Both dogs marked, and seemed to have created a competition to see who could do it more. Manning’s history Cindy and Steve purchased Manning and his sister at 5 months of age from a breeder who raised dogs for hunting and field trails. Since this was an unplanned litter, the breeder did little more than house the puppies until they were sold. That meant that the dogs had not experienced the outside world at all. As a result, both dogs were timid, and had not even been in a home environment or car before. Although the dogs had improved a lot under Cindy and Steve’s care, Manning was still more timid than his sister.

Though there were two Brittneys, only the male, Manning, had house training issues.

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Cindy noticed that Manning started marking in the house at about at about 2 and a half years old, and that the behavior was getting worse. Manning began to have regular places he marked. He’d mark the bed the two Chihuahuas slept on during the day, and his own food bowl. Manning marked the other dogs’ bed in the morning, and had recently begun to mark that area at night as well. Some of Manning’s marking occurred in the evening when Steve left for bowling. Manning was used to Steve being gone for work during the day, but not during the nighttime. Manning tended to get nervous and shaky when Steve was gone at night, and would wait in the living room for Steve to get home. My observations when I arrived Smoke Smoke was definitely timid. He had a hunched posture around me and his tail was tucked. The female Chihuahua, who didn’t have house training issues, was more outgoing. I got down to Smoke’s level, and did some soothing touch, working his chest and withers area. This got him to relax around me. Smoke then went over to Cindy. Though Smoke was still more shut down than I’d liked to have seen and had his tail down and head lowered, when Cindy began to talk to him in an upbeat, almost chirpy voice, the dog’s attitude changed. As I’ve noted, often dogs who are already nervous will become more tense and insecure when they hear this tone of voice. But Smoke and Cindy had eight years of positive history that included this tone, and his tail popped up and he did a bit of a happy prance for her. She later commented that she hadn’t ever seen Smoke warm up to someone new in the house like he did me. I attributed that to getting him to relax with me using the soothing touch. Although Smoke did become comfortable with my presence in that first meeting, the fact that he was somewhat timid made me at first wonder if he was an insecure marker. However, after talking more with Cindy, I realized the dog had always marked in the house, which led me to suspect that he was not adequately trained not to mark in the house. I believed that insecurity added to the frequency and intensity with which he marked. I have observed that some dogs 185

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who mark inside because they weren’t trained not to, tend to do so as a habit. For example, the dog gets up first thing in the morning and marks, and may have other key times during the day to mark. Dogs who mark when feeling insecure tend to do so if something changes in the household, for example someone the dog didn’t know arriving at the house. Other dogs entering the house can also trigger insecurity marking.

With the two Chihuahuas, Smoke arrived at the house with marking issues which continued for years until the situation was resolved with training. I talked to Cindy about learning to watch for times when Smoke marked so she would know when she might need to intercept him before he marked. That would allow her to redirect Smoke to go outside. By then rewarding Smoke for the right behavior, Cindy could change Smoke’s habit of marking in the house.

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I talked over the belly band idea with Cindy. This is when I learned that she had tried this device, and that Smoke knew how to slip out of it. A lot of dog owners put a belly band on and leave it on the entire time the dog is in the house. Using a belly band that way may not be effective with some dogs. In addition, the device can rub and irritate the dog. I suggested a different way to use the belly band on Smoke. Instead of randomly putting the belly band on and leaving it for a long time, it was better to put it on when the device was needed. For example, if Cindy and Smoke were hanging out in the house, or he was up on her lap, the band wasn’t needed. If Smoke was alone, or Cindy couldn’t watch him, then she should put on the belly band. I instructed her to work diligently to keep an eye on Smoke to make sure he didn’t sneak off and mark. Since Smoke showed so much insecurity, I also told Cindy that when someone came over as I had that night, she needed to make sure that he didn’t sneak away and mark in other areas of the house. If she couldn’t keep an eye on him, she needed to have him tethered to her so he couldn’t sneak off, or she could put on the belly band. One of the things that Cindy hadn’t been doing was periodically checking the belly band. Like many dog owners, she would strap it on and leave it until it was time to put the dog outside. I explained to her that she needed to check the belly band often for pee. This would help her to identify when he marked so she could become more in tune to when she need to be more watchful of him. I told her that any urine she discovered on the belly band needed to be cleaned, or the belly band should be replaced with a clean one. Smoke did mark in the band while I was there. We had taken Manning outside on a short evaluation walk. Upon our return, I asked Cindy to check the belly band on Smoke. He had marked while we were gone. What this told me was that Smoke had yet another reason to pee inside the house. He was either upset about being alone because he wanted to be with her, or just a bit jealous or frustrated about her being with the other dog. In fact, I suspected it was both: He got upset about Cindy leaving without him, but especially with another dog. Later on in his training, he again responded to Cindy’s departure by peeing. In this case, an accurate analysis of the cause was not as important as noting when he marked. Since Smoke had 187

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just marked in the belly band, I told her how I liked to present the scent to the dog before putting the dog out, in hopes that helped make a connection for the dog. After the belly band was removed, I told Cindy to tell him “outside” and take him out. Cindy noticed that once Smoke was outside, he expelled a few drops of urine. She rewarded him with her happy voice. In Smoke’s case, that was a good way to encourage the correct behavior. Cindy understood that she was not to use any reprimands or rub Smoke’s nose in the urine. I strongly suspect that Smoke was surrendered to the rescue because he marked in the house. I explained to Cindy that the more diligent she was in interrupting marking before it happened by taking him outside and encouraging him to do his marking out there, the sooner he’d change his habit. If she was good at her end of the training, I expected it to take about three months to change Smoke’s behavior. Of course, if Manning didn’t change his behavior, that might pose an additional challenge. Manning Both Brittany Spaniels seemed comfortable with me coming inside the house. We went to the back yard and watched interactions between Steve and Manning. Steve threw the ball and Manning would fetch until he became tired. Then he wouldn’t bring back the ball until he was ready to play again. While outside, a squirrel ran across a tree branch. Manning became completely obsessed with finding the squirrel. He raced around the back yard, paid no attention to anything else but trying to find the squirrel, and would not respond to any commands. In general, dogs who shut you out and become obsessed about things like squirrels become easily overstimulated, and allowing this kind of behavior often leads to other issues. I noticed when we took a short walk outside that Manning showed some leash reactivity to a dog across the street. All of these behaviors needed to be address, since they could in different ways contribute to marking in the house.

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Manning’s behavior was not unique for a dog who was bred for hunting and field trials. This kind of dog often poses extra training challenges because they become too focused on a task and shut out everything else in the environment. Steve mentioned that Manning had selective hearing when it came to coming when called in the back yard. When inside the house, I noticed Manning ran to the window and barked when a dog was passing by outside. He then began to run to another window to continue tracking the dog going down the street. This was a great setup for him hiking a leg when going from place to place while tracking the dog. To summarize, Manning seemed to mark in response to: • Smoke peeing—Manning would pee over Smoke’s pee • Steve leaving in the morning • Possibly when over-stimulated at the sight of dogs going by outside I felt that Manning needed some specific training before we could create a change in his marking behavior. His insecurity and his leash reactivity needed to be resolved. He needed leadership training as well, since he showed reluctance to follow commands. Cindy mentioned wanting to do some of the training with Manning because she noticed he felt more secure with her husband than with her. I enthusiastically supported her idea. Some of the training I had them do: • A specialized watch command training where the dog learns to look at the owner when he wants something, not just on a command. • Impulse control training, beginning by tossing a treat and teaching Manning to leave it on command. He was then to come to them, sit and make eye contact, which they would reward. All of these were needed before Manning could be trained to reduce leash reactivity and excitement about squirrels in the back yard.

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• Confidence training beginning with the soothing touch. Once Manning had more confidence and learned to relax, he would need structured socialization. • Steve mentioned that Manning was reluctant about his nails being clipped. I gave him some coaching on how to use the soothing touch to calm the dog about feet being touched. • Leadership training and consistency. As noted, Manning was sometimes reluctant to comply with commands. In particular, when in the back yard, he wouldn’t always come when called. Allowing a dog to routinely disregard a command undermines the owner as a competent leader. Dogs who have security issues feel even less safe when their owners are seen by them as less competent. Although Manning’s reactivity, lack of compliance and general fearfulness from not being socialized as a puppy needed to be addressed, we could begin to reform his marking before the other issues were resolved. I instructed his owners to interrupt inappropriate marking attempts and show him the correct area to mark, which was outside. I asked both Steve and Cindy to become more watchful of Manning to make sure he didn’t pee over areas where Smoke marked. They had recently purchased some Nature’s Miracle urine remover and I encouraged them to use it religiously. Once they learned when Manning marked, they could then find opportunities to interrupt this behavior by calling him away from the area, taking him outside and telling him to “go potty,” at which point they could reward him. I also suggested that, if there was a time they could take him out when he would likely hike a leg, they should be ready with a treat. Before opening the door to go out, they could use a cue such as “outside,” or “go potty outside” then let him out. Once Manning marked outside, they should praise and reward him. This would help teach him the command to urinate outside. Once he understood this command, if they saw him hike a leg inside, they could use the command to help with retraining Manning. I told them that when Manning got excited, they needed to teach him to settle down. If he saw a squirrel, they should tell him to leave

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it, then catch him and bring him inside. Once Manning was inside, they could work to get the dog to settle down and make eye contact. He was not to be put back outside until after the squirrel was gone. After he settled down, I told them to watch and make sure Manning didn’t go somewhere and pee. I suggested they consider using a belly band on him for times they couldn’t watch him or if they needed to see if he was peeing at certain times. I explained that they would eventually need to address Manning’s leash reactivity, but that the above goals should be their first priority. When Steve left at a time when Manning was known to mark, I suggested two things. One was to place a belly band on him before Steve departed. The other was to try putting some peanut butter in a Kong to keep him busy during Steve’s absence. In addition to peanut butter, if the dog enthusiastically eats his food, you can sometimes put part of his dinner inside the Kong. A week after my visit, Cindy informed me that Smoke had the habit of asking to go outside quite often, however he usually only expelled a very small amount of pee. I suggested she temper the intensity of her praise. Small pees got mild praise and good strong pees got strong praise. A few days later, she reported that was working well. About a month after that, although they’d seen great improvement with Smoke, he still marked on occasion. However, one time Steve caught the him in the act. Cindy had just gone into a utility room and closed the door, leaving Smoke behind. Smoke responded by hiking his leg, not realizing Steve was standing within eyesight. Steve said in a calm voice, “Smoke, did you just mark?” Although this startled the dog, he didn’t appear to be scared. Steve then calmly picked Smoke up, told him “outside” and escorted him out of the house. After that, they didn’t find evidence of even occasional peeing inside the house. Even in the early morning, when Smoke would leave the bedroom and come back in, they noted the dog had cold ears, indicating he’d gone outside through the doggy door. I praised Steve for handing Smoke perfectly when he interrupted the dog “in the act.” The calm way he interacted with the dog did a lot to help resolve this long-time habit.

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Summary Dogs who mark in the house do so for a variety of reasons. To solve the issue, a twofold approach works best. First, work to discover when the dog marks in the house. Interrupt that behavior and take the dog outside. Once outside, reward the dog for marking there. If the dog doesn’t want to mark when taken outside after being interrupted in the house, do the training I’ve outlined to teach the dog a cue word. The use of a belly band can help change marking behaviors. This stops the dog from making a mess, the scent of which can trigger further marking. In addition, some dogs don’t like the feel of urine against them, which reduces marking. Perhaps most importantly, a belly band can help owners discover when their dog is marking, which, as noted above, is the first step in resolving the problem. When working to resolve marking issues, be aware that you may need to resolve other issues that contribute to marking activity, including insecurity in the dog, reactivity to dogs passing by the house and separation anxiety issues. Since many dogs who mark inside the house do so because of insecurity, be aware that solving this kind of marking requires working on the security issue in the dog as well as retraining. With some dogs, don’t be surprised if the dog was never trained not to mark inside the house, as this sometimes needs to be addressed separately from regular house training. Although you may readily realize that misbehaviors are not stemming from some kind of alpha syndrome, some owners are not easy to convince. For that reason, I don’t spend a lot of time trying to argue with people who are convinced the issue is dominance- or alpha-related. That doesn’t mean I don’t try to explain other reasons they are seeing the behavior, it simply means I get to work analyzing and resolving what is motivating the dog to mark in the house. If the dog owner is dead set on believing the dog is dominant or alpha, the good news is that strong leadership is still the right solution. So, I tell them what they need to do to resolve their issues, specifically training to help the dog see them as the leader. Of course, I emphatically state that alpha rolls will not achieve this, but here are some rules the owner can follow:

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• Food: The dog is not allowed to steal from other dogs or growl over food • Possessions: Toys aren’t the dog’s. They belong to you and you choose who can play with which toy • Sleeping areas: You own the couch and your bed and are in charge. The dog’s beds all belong to you.. • Affection: Your dog doesn’t possess you, you possess your dog. You give the dog attention and affection on your terms, not when the dog dictates it. • Work to enforce cues: The dog should obey your cues, not pick and choose when and what to obey. People who have dogs who pick and choose whether to follow a command, such as coming when called, often find solving male marking more of a challenge without correcting the compliance issue in their dog.

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It is widely recognized that small and toy dogs are the most difficult to house train. Pet Lover News published a list of the 11 hardest-tohouse-train dogs, and not surprisingly nine of these were small dog breeds including: • Dachshunds • West Highland White Terriers • Jack Russell Terriers • Maltese • Havanese • Pomeranians • Yorkshire Terriers • Pekingese • Bichon Frises Another poll crowned the Italian Greyhound, a.k.a., the “Iggy,” the most challenging dog to house train. Since many of the challenging breeds

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otherwise make great companions and are relatively easy to care for, one might wonder what contributes to the house training challenges. There are many reasons small dogs can be more of a challenge, ranging from the dog’s personality to physiological reasons, as well as ease of access to the outside facilities. Dog trainers need to arrive at their consultation with a host of alternative solutions for smaller dog challenges.

Small dogs may pose extra challenges with house training.

Innocent until proven guilty First it is important to state that not all smaller dogs pose challenges. With those who do, contributing factors include breeding programs that don’t cull out individuals with weak bladders, smaller dogs who are prone to hypoglycemia if not fed through the day, and the dog owners themselves. A lot of older people acquiring a canine companion may opt for a smaller breed, yet their house training skills are anchored in older methods that often don’t work. These dog owners may need to be educated in better methods. Many of the smaller breeds are more likely to be acquired for apartment living, and a relatively high percentage of them are owned by older people. This means that many aspects of the go-to house

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training methods are not easy for them to follow, especially if an owner’s health challenges interfere with frequent visits outside to an appropriate venue. For apartment dwellers, not everyone wants to hop into an elevator, finally reach the outside, only to face a concrete sidewalk, adverse weather and the need to immediately pick up feces. Some small dogs like those on the list above can have a strong-willed nature, so when the owner attempts to get the dog to comply they encounter a stubborn streak. Another issue is smaller dogs are often more likely to become frightened with any scolding, which can lead to submissive peeing. Finally, short-coated, small dogs may not want to go outside during adverse weather conditions. All of these factors can lead to house training problems.

Making modifications for small dogs Although the go-to house training method has resolved many issues for me, with some dogs, such as the Italian Greyhound, a different approach is needed to bring success. Dina Kenemore, assistant representative, IGCA Rescue Central and Northern Texas, has found modifications to secure success with even the most challenging Iggys. Here are some of her recommendations:

Putting the dog out Simply putting a dog outside doesn’t mean the dog will take the time to eliminate. The dog owner needs to learn the difference between a dog going outside and actually doing their business. Dog owners need to watch and make sure the dog answers the call of nature. Always put the dog out before leaving the house, even if you plan to be gone just a short time. Likewise, put him out again and as soon as you come home. Reward success with treats.

Cueing when to go Iggys love being around people all of the time, so if they begin to wander around inside the house, that may indicate a need to answer the call of nature. If a dog owner picks up on this, the owner can then escort the dog outside. Dina noted that her dog paces the house

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as his cue that he needs to go outside. She also has coached dog owners to train the dog to use a bell.

Taking advantage of routines Some dogs are more routine-oriented than others. If they are used to going out at a specific time, you need to be there to let them out or have made other arrangements. Though it may be tempting to remove water when the dog is crated to extend crating time, this is never recommended. Not all dogs can tolerate going for extended periods of time without water, especially in areas where summer temperature and humidity are high. If your dog can only hold his pee for six hours, then you need to be able to let the dog out of the crate within those parameters.

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Outside means time to go When taking the dog out, don’t let the dog play or do anything but get to business. That will keep the dog from getting distracted. Most small dogs use the bathroom within 15 minutes of going outside. Remember that positive reinforcements are a must.

Commitment from owners required Small dogs require a 100% commitment with crating and tethering until they “get it.” Some people have found exercise pens or gates the best method if they don’t want to tether or can’t keep a close eye on the dog.

Manipulating feeding locations Dogs in general do not like to eat where they relieve themselves. To discourage a dog from wandering to more secluded areas in the house, the dog can be strategically fed throughout the house, so they never know where the next meal will be given. For example, some dogs try to hide an accident in areas with less traffic, such as behind a table, in the corner of a room, or other areas where either they or the owner spend little time. If the dog has a favorite location to eliminate, try feeding the dog in that location until the dog abandons that idea.

Feeding and eliminating It is not recommended to feed the dog when he is alone, because the dog will likely need some relief shortly thereafter. Feeding the dog when the owner isn’t there to let the dog out afterwards can facilitate an accident.

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Sparse-coated dogs with low body fat need jackets before putting them out in cool or cold conditions.

Cold considerations When you look at an IG or a Chihuahua, you realize the dog doesn’t have much of a coat. Often, the dog has little body fat as well. So it should be no surprise the dog has little tolerance for cold and will not want to go outside when it is cold. Though some dogs may be able to learn to get the job done quickly, others may do better if they are accommodated inside during adverse weather. Other considerations are to make sure the dog has a warm yet comfortable jacket, and use rubber boots in rain and snow in the winter. Remember that dogs often need time to get accustomed to wearing gear of this nature.

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Explain to the owner that dogs often need time to get used to boots on their feet. Have them train for that inside.

Owner “issues” with small-dog house training Keep in mind that, when you come to a home to help solve a smalldog house training issue, you many first need to do some work with the dog and owner relationship. There are some relationships that have gotten off track due to the owner not understanding how to handle the traits that make certain dogs more difficult to train. Be prepared to observe or query the owner about dog and owner interactions. Owners who don’t know how to correctly house train a dog may trigger a stubborn reaction or a timid response so that the dog will avoid the owner but still make messes in the house.

The “too stubborn to house train” myth One client who owns a Jack Russell Terrier, aka Parson Russell Terrier, couldn’t get the dog to quit leaving piles under their dining room table. The owner was complaining that the main issue was that the dog is just plain stubborn. However, the real problem was the owner needed to understand that the wrong interactions with some dogs can trigger a resistance we label as “stubborn.” Once that issue is created, it takes a little retraining to get the dog and owner’s relationship back on track.

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The first step is to understand the real issue. A dog acting stubborn is a created issue, not an inherited one like some dog owners believe. I learned about what creates a stubborn streak in an animal many years ago from a mule trainer. At the time, I owned a Jack Russell Terrier who I felt epitomized the word stubborn. So I contacted the top mule trainer in the nation to find out how he dealt with his stubborn mules. He informed me that mules weren’t stubborn; however, they were more likely to comply when they understood the advantage to that compliance. A light bulb went off for me. By trying to force my dog, I’d precipitated the “stubbornness” I found so insurmountable. What I learned so many years ago was that for my Jack Russell to do as I wanted, the dog needed to see the benefit in compliance. Tools I often use include treat training and play training (although I’m careful to fade the reward and not overuse either food or play), keeping lessons short, clicker training, and employing the Premack principle.

Stubbornness is a created trait resulting from incorrect owner and dog interactions.

The “punishment is the only way to learn” myth Another issue often creating problems with house training is when the owner of a small dog uses punishment. Some dog owners strongly believe that they must punish the dog so he learns not to leave messes in the wrong area. This may be more prevalent in older clients. But don’t be too judgmental about a punitive approach to house training.

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Many older clients were potty trained by their parents using a punitive approach. If the dog owner has taken this route with house training, I work to educate them as to why this approach doesn’t work, especially with small dogs.

Make sure your clients aren’t using punishment techniques with their dogs I explain to dog owners that dogs often don’t react to punishment in the ways we intend them to. Some dogs are so relationship-oriented that they react much like the owner might if a friend or family member smacked them hard because the person didn’t like something they just did. Like us, the dog doesn’t think about what they did, but more often focuses on the fact that this person just hit them. When this happens between people, the friendship won’t last very long. Dogs are so relationshiporiented that some dogs have a high tolerance for punishment. However, that doesn’t mean a punitive approach has no unwanted consequence. Instead of succeeding with house training, punishment may result in the dog learning to hide their eliminations. Other times, dogs may develop issues such as submissive peeing. Other artifacts of punitive training include the dog becoming very timid around the dog owner,

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especially if the owner is showing any disapproval, anger, or is in a bad mood. Sadly, some people are in a bad mood for other reasons, but the dog will still react. Making matters worse, if the punishment from the dog owner becomes intolerable, the dog will learn to cower when anticipating punishment from the owner. Unfortunately, dogs engaging in any kind of punishment avoidance are not thinking about changing their behavior.

The “final straw” issue Owners of smaller dogs are not dealing with large messes and may not see soiling issues as urgent. This can result in owners who decide to put up with house soiling until one day they’ve decided things need to change. Be sensitive to this, and if you find the owner is highly frustrated, come prepared to encourage them and to explain how solutions are available when using the correct training methods.

Logistical challenges to house training With some dogs, the issue isn’t that the dog is a challenge to house train. Rather it is that arranging a place for the dog to eliminate is a problem. For clients who have these problems, there are a host of solutions available.

When a yard is not available Small dogs living in small spaces without ready access to a private yard present a real challenge for both owners and trainers trying to help them to come up with solutions. Here are some ideas to try: Use a deck instead of a yard. Check to see if a deck is feasible by asking these questions: • Is there a deck outside that can substitute for a yard? • Are the owners willing to have a potty area so close to their living area? • Can they remove the waste from the deck often enough to be tolerable?

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Some decks have risers with spaces in between. When dealing with small dogs, check the spacing of the riser to be sure the dog can’t slip though the opening. If that is in question, places like Home Depot can help dog owners find solutions for material to block the gaps in the risers. When looking for materials to accommodate the dog on the deck, an internet search will bring up a lot of options. Considerations with the dog owner include how the owner wants to clean up the area, and if there are areas that need to be protected underneath the deck. Remember that a male dog may need to be accommodated for hiking a leg. The dog can be trained to these areas using the go-to method. Setups for eliminating inside the house. Some people may be willing to implement indoor house training for a small dog, even if they have a yard for the dog. Some of the reasons include: a lack of a secure area in the yard, such as no fence in the back yard or predatory animal threats with small dogs; fear of someone stealing the dog; or a dog unwilling to go outside during adverse weather conditions. Considerations when helping the owner come up with a solution include: • Smell—the location must not be in an area where smell from a dog eliminating is an issue. • Proximity to a door—some dogs will need the pen located near an exit if the dog will sometimes go outside. Dog exercise pens. Dog exercise pens (x-pens) can be set up for dogs to learn to eliminate in a specific area. Sometimes this is a temporary setup, where the x-pen is used to keep the dog in the same area where an elimination box is located until the dog becomes reliable in that area. Other times, the entire x-pen is lined with puppy pads for the dog to choose where he wants to go. If the dog is confined during the day to this area, a sleeping area needs to be set up, as well as a water and food area. Even if puppy pads line the entire area, it isn’t unusual for a dog to learn to eliminate in one part of the pen.

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Training to a litter box. Dog owners can construct a litter box much like a cat litter box. Of course, the size must be appropriate for the size of the dog. Dogs can be led to the area on a leash, or confined to the box until the business is done. Much like the go-to method, choosing good times and using rewards will help. If males need to mark, a post can be located in the middle of the box, or a raised side can be offered. Daubing a little urine on the desired area can help guide the dog to the correct place to mark. Urine can be collected with a paper towel, while using a plastic glove on your hand.

Even before a puppy is weaned, the youngster can begin to learn how to use a litter box. Owners need to learn how to use puppy pads and crates correctly. For people who need to accommodate a dog to relieve himself inside, there are many ways to do this, from potty pads to potty boxes. Since some dogs may want to scratch after eliminating, substances such as clay litter, commercial odor pellets or dirt in a box may not be ideal. The owner will need to try different options, such as puppy pads. A common mistake when using puppy pads is to line an entire room with the pad and nothing else. Ideally, you put down food and water on a mat, and also give the dog a bed to lie on. Asking the dog to lie on a puppy pad doesn’t help the dog establish the idea that the den area needs to be kept clean. 205

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When using puppy pads, include a sleeping area separate from the pads. Crates are also a useful tool. But you need to know how long the dog can comfortably be crated. Some small dogs may be able to stay in a crate all day. However, others may not be able to hold things for more than four to six hours. Owners can observe their dogs when they are home during the day to determine the dog’s needs when they are away. Even though inactivity in a crate helps a dog hold things longer, it is important to respect a dog’s natural limits. Although all smaller dogs are not guaranteed to pose unique house training challenges, some certainly will. For that reason, it is necessary for a dog trainer to have a diversity of options to help solve issues, from learning when to accommodate the dog to when different techniques are required.

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10 Coprophagia and Pica Problems

Coprophagia is the term for eating feces. Pica is the term for the craving or eating of non-food substances. Though not true house training issues, many dog owners view these problems as related to house training. With either issue, there are approaches that can change the dog’s behavior. Dog trainers need to learn when and what to try, and when to refer the issue to a veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist.

Coprophagia isn’t always considered dysfunctional Though a total gross-out, there are times when it is natural for a dog to eat dog feces. It is instinctual for a mother dog to eat her young puppies’ feces. Speculation abounds as to why this occurs. Theories range from nutritional reasons to an attempt to hide the scent of new puppies from predators. This habit in a mother dog stops about the time the puppies are weaned. Puppies may also eat feces while in the litter.

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Some of the causes for a dog ingesting their own feces can be addressed by the dog trainer; other issues may need the help of a veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist. There are times when an adult dog may take up the habit of eating his or her feces on a short-term basis. One thing to consider is that fecal matter still contains undigested nutrients. I know of some veterinarians who feel that dogs may eat their feces, or another animal’s feces, because the dog has a need to populate his or her digestive track with microorganisms. Eating other animals’ feces isn’t uncommon. Around my place, we say that the dog is “snacking on barnyard delights.”

Coprophagia and your client There will be times when working with clients where you end up deciding if an issue needs to be passed along to a veterinarian or if you can offer solutions yourself. When it comes to coprophagia, I first like to try and decide if the situation is solvable with training or management tools. Below are some of the solvable approaches I 208

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have found. If those don’t work, or this problem had a sudden onset even though the dog’s environment stayed the same, I more quickly recommend seeking veterinary help.

Doing a little detective work When working with clients who have seen this issue crop up, you often need to do a little detective work. One thing to address is what kind of dog food the dog is being fed. You may also look over the dog’s coat for signs of good health. Be suspicious of dull coats and obesity. These can signal a medical issue or poor nutrition. Ask about any changes in the household, since these can introduce stress. Ask the dog owner about what they do to correct unwanted behaviors. Harsh, aversive training may be causing stress. Note the age of the dog. Adolescence can trigger many unusual and sometimes out-ofcharacter behaviors. Old dogs may have more recently developed a medical issue.

Coprophagia issues with relatively simple solutions Stress in an animal I’ve seen stress cause dogs to take up eating feces. One case in particular that comes to mind was an adolescent dog named Lestat. To say it bluntly, this terrier was a brat, especially when he went through his adolescence. “Defiance first” seemed to be his motto. He’d blow off any and all commands, sometimes even when food was offered for compliance. This led his owners to resort to punitive disciplinary actions. Unfortunately, this approach didn’t work. Not only did the dog not give up unwanted behaviors, but since he was sensitive to reprimands, he soon began to eat his own poop. The resolution for Lestat was leadership training using positive techniques. I also added play training to the training routine. For example, we let him chase a lure on the end of a short whip, often called a flirt pole. After a period of chasing, we lifted toy up and asked Lestat to sit. When he complied, the play again commenced. Since Lestat was highly active, I had the owners use walks and ball-tossing to increase bonding as well as burn off his excess energy. Instead of

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punishing the dog for unwanted behavior, we rewarded unexpected good behaviors by allowing Lestat to engage in behaviors we knew he enjoyed and was likely to perform (using the Premack principle). Often the reward was a play session. By removing the punishment training and working with Lestat more positively to encourage the behaviors the owners wanted, he became less stressed and quit his coprophagia after about a month.

Lestat’s issue with eating feces resolved when the owners trained him using more positive techniques.

Nutritional issues Jewel was a mill dog who at 8 years old was surrendered to a rescue. It isn’t unusual for a rescued mill dog to be very timid and fearful, but Jewel was more fearful than the typical mill dog. That was why she was returned to the rescue after her first adoption. I took her on as a foster to work on her issues so she could be successful in an adoptive home. Jewel was underweight when she arrived at my home. Although mill dogs suffer from poor nutrition, especially given the nutritional demands of having the task of birthing litter after litter, Jewel also had hookworms, which were treated by the rescue. Worms alone can also create nutritional issues in dogs. Perhaps it shouldn’t have surprised me that Jewel didn’t just gobble up all her feces, she cleaned up after the 210

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other two dogs. Considering her nutrient-deficient life, it made sense to try an adequate diet for a while and see if the issue resolved. When looking for an adequate diet for Jewel, I drew on my degree in biology. I also had some experience in nutritional research because of some writing I had done on the subject of proper feeding of horses and dogs. I took these ideas and shared them with a couple of veterinarians. One suggested a brewer’s yeast type of supplement for coprophagia issues. Another mentioned trying Greek yogurt. After providing supplements and quality dog food, over a six-month period Jewel slowly quit her coprophagia. When working with a possible nutrition cause for this problem, there are a couple of things to keep in mind. One is that a veterinarian’s guidance is always a good idea. However, be choosy about what vet you go to. Some have strong nutritional experience, while others are weak in this area. I always find it a good idea to ask if the veterinarian has dealt specifically in this area and had success with resolving this kind of issue when seeking advice.

Investigating causes with the dog owner Other noted reasons dogs may eat their own feces include intestinal parasites, boredom and poor digestion. Before I reach for a food additive known to deter this habit, I like to do a little investigation to make sure that no other issues exist. As mentioned in Jewel’s case, worms often rob dogs of key nutrients. Unfortunately, it isn’t unusual for puppies to be born with worm infestations. Some dogs may have dull coats as a result of worms, while others may not show easily recognized outward signs. Having the owner address the possibility of worm issues with their veterinarian may help you discover why the dog is ingesting feces. Ask the dog owner about the dog’s routine during the day. Although some dogs get into destructive behaviors such as chewing when bored, some may begin to eat their own feces. When interviewing the owner, look for reports of other typical behavior issues associated with boredom such as destructive chewing.

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Poor digestion can cause a dog to eat his own feces. Research has shown that animals can benefit from ingestion of feces in some cases because the digestibility is better. If a dog isn’t bored, stressed or dealing with a worm infestation, you may have the dog owner try a more easily digestible food. Dog food labels often offer information regarding digestibility.

Food additives to correct the problem When it comes to additives to help prevent coprophagia, some people have success with mixing pineapple in with the dog’s kibble. There are also products available in pet shops to add to the dog’s food that help stop dogs from cleaning up their own excrement. However, please make sure there is not an underlying cause that needs to be addressed before using an additive to correct the habit. Veterinarians can often help discover those issues.

Pica Simply put, pica is the eating of non-food substances. However, an interview with E’Lise Christensen, DVM, DACVB, board-certified veterinary behaviorist, helped me understand this issue in dogs as I’ve never understood it before.

Pica involves a dog eating non-food substances. 212

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Dr. C on pica Dr. C’s patients include dogs who eat everything from underwear to more seemingly unappealing substances like little pieces of glass. Eating non-food items can be normal in puppyhood—although still dangerous—because puppies naturally use their mouths to explore their environments. The most common substance Dr. C reported her patients eat is rocks. Although some vets and owners may consider these normal behaviors, in adult dogs, this issue needs to be investigated as potentially a behavioral or medical problem. Dr. C suggests that some people may be confused because puppies exhibit exploratory behaviors that may lead them to ingest all sorts of items. Medical and behavioral issues Dr. C explained that pica can have medical or behavioral causes. Some of the medical causes can include: • Anything unusual with the gastrointestinal tract, such as esophageal reflux • Inflammatory bowel disease • Parasites both persistent and occult • Anemia • Problems that cause the patient to be unusually hungry, such as maldigestion and malabsorption issues There are potential behavioral problems as well. Ironically, there are some people who unintentionally teach their dog to eat nonfood items. This may happen with a dog who is resource guarding. If the owner chases the dog to try and retrieve the item, this can result in the dog eating the item so the owner cannot take it away. When working to change pica behavior that stems from resource guarding, redirecting can work for some dogs. To do this, find a more acceptable item to offer the dog. Sometimes you can hold a high-value treat close to the dog’s nose and ask for a “drop it” when the dog has an inappropriate item in his mouth. Once the dog drops the item that shouldn’t be eaten, offer something the dog can chew, like a bully stick, and then retrieve the inappropriate item. 213

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Investigating causes with the owner When working with pica, here is a good checklist of questions to go over with the owner. • Ask the age of the dog. Puppies and adolescents may engage in pica as part of normal maturation. However, question the dog owner to make sure you understand the extent of the behavior, as there is a level of intensity past which pica is abnormal, even in young dogs. •

Find out if there are triggers such as an owner leaving the dog alone in the house, or situations that create tension in the household including individuals who are acting negatively toward the dog, harsh training techniques, and/or a chaotic household.

• Ask about how the dog owner retrieves items from the dog. Do they chase the dog, or yell, scold or punish? • Observe how the dog interacts with the owners. Does the dog seem insecure or stressed? • Ask if the dog has eating issues including digestive upsets or being picky. Dogs under stress can exhibit these symptoms. However, if resolving a stress issue doesn’t bring improvement, then there may be a biological issue that needs to be looked into.

Summary Dogs who display coprophagia or pica issues may first be brought to the attention of a dog trainer, even though it is sometimes a symptom of a medical problem. There are some things that you as a dog trainer can try before or in addition to referring clients to their veterinarian. If the dog is young, make sure the issue isn’t that the puppy is bored or in need of better management to prevent him from chewing and swallowing inappropriate items, and that he has plenty of dog-appropriate items to put into his mouth. Make sure that the dog is not experiencing undue stress in the house, as this is a common behavioral reason for coprophagia and pica.

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Keep in mind that it is not our place as trainers to make a medical diagnosis. However, we are often in a position to encourage a dog owner to check with a specialist. When dealing with pica and coprophagia, a general practice veterinarian may not have the expertise to resolve the issue, making a veterinary behaviorist the best next step.

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Concluding Thoughts

There are certainly a lot of house training issues that can develop with dogs. Over the years, I’ve discovered many ways of training dogs with difficult or persistent issues. I hope you find that the information in this book gives you tools to work with when dealing with the more difficult house training issues. When working with dog owners, it is a good idea to show them the same amount of compassion you show the dog. You may also find it helps to explain to the owner that working through the more difficult issues can take time, but often even very difficult house training issues are solvable. For those reasons, I hope you also choose to acquire tools to help you relate to and find empathy for dog owners who are struggling with their dog’s house training issues. All too often, dogs who struggle with house training are abandoned by their owners. Fortunately, skilled dog trainers are in a position to turn around that trend.

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Appendix: Is It a Medical Issue?

If in doubt about the causative factor for a house training issue, be sure to have the client first take the dog to a veterinarian to rule out any medical causes. Always remember that it is not your place as a trainer to suggest possible diagnoses of medical conditions to your client. The information provided here is simply for your reference, and to provide you with an understanding of the range of conditions that could cause house training issues. Be aware that some dogs who have experienced house training issues resulting from a medical problem may need training to again establish correct house training habits once the medical issue is solved.

Urinary infections Symptoms • Frequent urination, typically small amounts • Regression in housetraining • Blood in the urine, often seen as faint pink or brownish tinge to urine • Dribbling urine 217

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• Pain from urinating, may result in whining while urinating • Straining to urinate • Frequently or obsessively licking the genital area—this can also be a behavior in insecure dogs

Bladder stones Symptoms • Urinary accidents • Regression in house training • Frequent attempts to urinate without producing much urine • Straining to urinate • Discolored urine • Pain and discomfort—the dog may whine from the pain and may shift positions often or show difficulty sitting or lying down • Licking around the urinary opening

pH issues Changes in pH can also be seen in dogs at any age, including younger dogs, and can cause more frequent urination. Urinary discomfort can be the result of either too alkaline or too acidic of a pH.

Elevated glucose Disease such as diabetes, persistent high glucose levels in the blood, can cause urinary issues. High blood sugar causes increased thirst and urination. Although glucose can show up in the urine from diabetes, specific types of kidney disease and urinary infections can result in glucose in the urine.

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Inflammatory conditions Inflammatory conditions such as pancreatitis, hormonal imbalances or Cushing’s disease (hyperadrenocorticism) can cause urinary issues resulting in house training regression.

Cancer Cancer can affect urinary and fecal incontinence, even if the cancer is not in the area associated with those functions. The issues may become more prevalent closer to the time the animal begins to die.

Aging issues Weakened sphincter muscles. Some dogs will have a weakening of the bladder or sphincter muscles due to aging. This can result in the dog beginning to have issues with holding his bladder or bowels all day long Cognitive dysfunction. This condition may be gradual or have a more rapid onset. This may be caused by disease or by age. Both fecal and urinary incontinence are at times seen with this issue.

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Recommended Reading

Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training Vol 1. by Steven R. Lindsay On Talking Term with Dogs: Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas Rescue Your Dog from Fear by Peggy Swager Training the Hard to Train Dog by Peggy Swager

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About the Author

Peggy Swager is an Animal Behavioral Specialist and professional dog trainer with over 20 years of experience. Peggy earned a BS degree in Biology, a minor in Education and completed numerous psychology courses. She has written several books and articles on dog behavior problems included fear, separation anxiety and house training. She also teaches an accredited online course on house training issues through e-trainingfordogs.com. Peggy’s book Rescue Your Dog From Fear received award nominations from the Dog Writer’s Association of America as did her DVD Separation Anxiety, A Weekend Technique. Peggy lives in Monument, Colorado, and can be reached at peggyswager.com 221

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Index A

adolescent dogs, 62–66, 116– 121, 133–134 age related issues adolescent dogs, 62–66, 116–121, 133–134 as cause of house training issue, 62–67, 219 elimination schedules, 12–15 pica, 214 aggression issues biting behavior, 101–103, 180 house training regression, 77–78 marking issues, 172–174 resource guarding, 137–140, 177, 193 Albert’s story, 98–108, 163– 164, 180–183 alpha dog theory, 134, 140– 143, 162, 172–173, 192 Anatolian Shepherds, 86–91 appeasement signals, 112, 116–118, 129, 135. See also submissive peeing issues approach to dogs excitement/greeting peeing, 147–148 submissive peeing issues, 113, 122–124, 128 Australian Shepherds, 156

B

barrier frustration, 175–176 Baxter’s story, 156 belly bands excitement/greeting peeing, 150 222

marking issues, 106, 166, 168–171, 180–183, 192 submissive peeing issues, 127 Bichon Frises, 194 biting behavior, 101–103, 180 bladder issues excitement/greeting peeing, 144–148 small dogs, 195 urinary infections, 164, 179, 217–218 younger dogs and puppies, 13 Border Collies, 138 boredom, 66 britches, 127, 150, 179–180 Brittany Spaniels, 184–185

C

calming signals, 88–90, 124–125 case studies crates, 29 excitement/greeting peeing, 156–160 fear issues, 86–108 marking issues, 172–175, 180–191 regression in house training, 78–81 submissive peeing issues, 110–111, 128–140 causes of house training issues age related issues, 62–67 insecurity, 60–62 new dog in household, 56–60 stress in dogs, 49–56 Chihuahuas, 78–81, 163, 180– 188, 198

Index

Christensen, E’Lise, 144–148, 212–213 clean up techniques, 19–21, 43, 108, 167, 190 Cocker Spaniels, 94–98 confinement issues, 24–28 coprophagia, 207–212 crates adolescent dogs, 63, 66 elimination schedules, 14, 85 marking issues, 166, 174, 176 mill dogs, 93, 107–108 proper use of, 23–28, 198, 205–206 resolution of confinement issues, 28–40 resolution of soiling issues, 40–46 cues for house training, 10, 83–84, 167–168, 193, 196– 197

D

Dachshunds, 194 daycare for dogs, 157–158 Dearth, Janice, 136 destruction issues, 62–66, 211 diapers, 127, 150, 179–180 dirt boxes, 45, 205 doggy doors, 84–85 doggy RV approach, 43–45, 99–100 dominant behavior theory, 134, 140–143, 162, 172–173, 192 Dunbar, Ian, 45, 98–99

E

eating disorders coprophagia, 207–212

hypoglycemia, 195 mill dogs, 210–212 pica, 212–215 elimination schedules, 12–18, 198 Emma’s story, 94–98 English Springer Spaniels, 138 enzymatic cleaners, 20, 43, 108, 167 excitement/greeting peeing case studies, 156–160 diagnosis of issue, 144–148 relationship of owner and dog, 148–152 resolution of, 152–156 eye contact, 113–114, 135–136, 151, 191

F

fear issues. See also stress in dogs go-to technique, 82–83 house training regression, 74–76 mill dogs, 91–109 rescue dogs, 82–91 females in heat, 175 food possessiveness, 137–140. See also resource guarding

G

gates, 62 Golden Retrievers, 157–158 go-to technique clean up techniques, 19–21 house training regression, 70–74, 78 marking issues, 166 overview, 8–11 rescue dogs, 82–83

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rewards, 18–19 schedule considerations, 12–18 stress in dogs, 55–56 tether technique, 21–22 greeting dogs, 113, 122–124, 128, 147–148

H

Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training (Lindsay), 88 Harvey’s story, 157–158 Havanese, 194 house training regression. See also excitement/greeting peeing; submissive peeing issues causes of, 74–81 go-to technique, 70–74 hypoglycemia, 195

I

I’ll Be Back technique, 69 impulse control training, 189 insecurity, 56, 60–62, 185–186, 192. See also relationship of owner and dog isolation issues, 24–28 Italian Greyhounds, 194, 196–198

J

Jack Russell Terriers, 59–60, 77–81, 132–136, 194, 200– 201

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K

Kayla’s story, 158–160 Kenemore, Dina, 196 kennels, 43–45

L

leadership training case studies, 110–111 coprophagia, 209 marking issues, 172–174, 190, 192 submissive peeing issues, 140–143 Lestat’s story, 209–210 limitations to access, 62 Lindsay, Steven R., 88 litter boxes, 45, 205 luring technique, 152–154

M

male marking. See marking issues Maltese, 194 Manning’s story, 184–185, 188–191 marking issues aggression issues, 78 case studies, 180–191 identification of reasons, 171–180 overview, 162–165 resolution of, 165–171 medical issues in dogs, 144– 148, 195, 207–215, 217–219 medical issues in owners, 79–80, 117 mill dogs nutritional issues, 210–212 role in house training issues, 3–4, 91–109

Index

N

new dog in household, 56–61, 74 nutritional issues, 210–212

O

obedience training, 57, 65–66, 120 On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals (Rugaas), 89 Otis’ story, 98–108, 163

P

Parson Russell Terriers, 200– 201 Pekingese, 194 pet doors, 84–85 petting techniques, 114–115, 122–124 Pomeranians, 194 prison dog program, 137–138 Pugs, 172 punishment. See also stress in owners as cause of house training issue, 48–49, 54–56 coprophagia, 209–210 crates and, 25–26 dominant behavior theory, 134–135, 140–143 small dogs, 201–203 puppy mills. See mill dogs

R

regression in house training. See also excitement/greeting peeing; submissive peeing issues causes, 74–81 go-to technique, 70–74 relationship of owner and dog excitement/greeting peeing, 147–152 house training regression, 74–76 separation anxiety, 178–179 small dogs, 200–203 submissive peeing issues, 110–112, 119, 136 rescue dogs, 59–60, 82–91. See also mill dogs Rescue Your Dog from Fear (Swager), 57, 69, 77, 95, 143 resource guarding leadership training, 137– 140, 142, 172–174, 193 marking issues, 177 pica, 213 rewards compliance issues, 64 excitement/greeting peeing, 152–154 go-to technique, 18–19 mill dogs, 102–103 Rocket’s story, 78–81 Rugaas, Turid, 89

S

schedule considerations, 12–18, 198 sensitive dogs new dog in household, 59–60 owner and dog relationship,

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H A R D t o H o u s e train

19, 52, 58, 74–76 stress in owners, 148, 158 submissive peeing issues, 19, 117–121 separation anxiety as cause of house training issue, 67–69, 76 confinement issues, 28 destruction issues, 62–63 marking issues, 172, 177– 179, 192 mill dogs, 104 Separation Anxiety, a Weekend Technique, 69, 179 sexual maturity, 66–67, 175 Shilo’s story, 29 Smoke’s story, 184–188 socialization fearfulness and insecurity, 42, 58, 60–61 marking issues, 174–175, 190 mill dogs, 91, 101, 104 soothing touch, 77, 87–90, 96–97, 128, 190 sphincter function, 146–147 stress in dogs. See also fear issues as cause of house training issue, 49–56 coprophagia, 207–212 crates, 41–42 excitement/greeting peeing, 146–147 mill dogs, 92–93 rescue dogs, 83 submissive peeing issues, 115, 129 stress in owners as cause of house training issue, 51–54 excitement/greeting peeing, 148–152, 158–160

226

small dogs, 203 submissive peeing issues, 117–118, 126–128, 130–131 submissive peeing issues case studies, 128–140 identification of characteristics and triggers, 110–115 identification of reasons, 116–119 leadership training, 140–143 resolution of, 119–128 small dogs, 202–203 systematic desensitization, 96–98 Szyszka’s story, 86–91

T

tether technique, 21–22, 166, 198 Toby’s story, 172–175 tone of voice, 76, 97, 125–126, 147–148 Training the Hard to Train Dog (Swager), 64 treats. See also rewards compliance issues, 64 excitement/greeting peeing, 152–154 mill dogs, 102–103 small dogs, 201

U

urinary infections, 164, 179, 217–218

V

visitor greeting peeing. See excitement/greeting peeing

Index

W

walking go-to technique, 12, 16–17, 70–73 issues with new dog in household, 57 watch command, 136, 189 weather considerations, 199 West Highland White Terriers, 194

X

x-pens, 43–45, 204

Y

yawning, 89–90, 124 Yorkshire Terriers, 194

227

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Dog trainers face ethical decisions all the time. Learn how to think through these situations using this systematic approach developed by Jim Barry, an attorney-turned-dog-trainer, and make decisions you can live with.

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Dog trainers don’t really train dogs—they train people to train their dogs. Learn how to empathize with clients, overcome common objections and work with families to get the best results for the dog. From a PhD Psychologist-turneddog-trainer.

Dogwise.com is your source for quality books, ebooks, DVDs, training tools and treats. We‘ve been selling to the dog fancier for more than 25 years and we carefully screen our products for quality information, safety, durability and FUN! You‘ll find something for every level of dog enthusiast on our website dogwise.com or drop by our store in Wenatchee, Washington.

Dogs/Training

$19.95

Some owners can house train their dogs without having to call on an expert. But when people experience difficulty with house training, it can lead to a variety of very serious consequences for the dog and frustration for the owner. While most trainers can offer standard house training advice for puppies, dealing with on-going problems with older dogs—fear based peeing, male marking, soiled crates—may be beyond the scope of what a dog trainer is equipped to handle. Hard to House Train by Peggy Swager is designed to be the go-to reference guide for trainers who encounter difficult house training cases. With in-depth information on proven techniques as well as how to deal with the underlying behavioral problems (both dog and human!) which underlie them, this book should be part of your reference library.

What experts are saying about Hard to House Train Literally the only book a dog trainer will need when working with their client’s dogs on house training issues. Robin Bennett, CPDT-KA. Author of All About Dog Daycare. A Blueprint for Success, 2nd Edition

This book deserves a place on every dog trainer’s bookshelf and serves as a great reference for solving the tougher house training problems. Thomas Aaron, CPDT-KA. Founder: Positive Gun Dog Association Organized in an easy to read and reference format with multiple solutions and case studies for each concern, making it a must have book for any dog trainer’s library. Megan Stanley, CPDT-KSA, CBCC-KA. Chair of the APDT Board of Directors

Peggy Swager is an animal behavioral specialist and professional dog trainer with over 20 years of experience. She has written several books and articles on dog behavior problems included fear, separation anxiety and house training. Peggy lives in Monument, Colorado, and can be reached at peggyswager.com. ISBN 978-1-61781-226-2

www.dogwise.com 1-800-776-2665

9 781617 812262

51995

Peggy O. Swager

A comprehensive reference with a ton of great information about various house training challenges. Michelle Douglas, CPDT-KA, CDBC. Past President of the Association of Professional Dog Trainers.

HARD TO HOUSE TRAIN

Expert Help for Difficult House Training Problems

Peggy O. Swager

HARD to HOUSE TRAIN Practical Solutions for Dog Trainers