Collins Complete Plumbing and Central Heating [4 ed.] 0007164416, 9780007164417

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Collins

PLUMBING & CENTRAL HEATING

fix it yourself and save money from changing a washer to installing a shower

Published by H a r p e r C o l l m s / V W / i / i m , L o u d o n T h i s e d i t i o n first p u b l i s h e d in 200.1. M o s t of the text and illustrations in this book previously appeared in the Collins Complete DIY Manual, published in 2001. I S B N 0 00 716441 6 C o p y r i g h t ® 1988,1995, 1999 H a rp e r C o l I i n sPi i blis hers T h e material for this h o o k was treated exclusively for H a r p e r C o l l i n s i ' u W / i / i f r s by Jackson D a y Jennings L t d t r a d i n g as I n k l i n k

Authors

Albert Jackson & David Day

Editorial director

Albert Jackson

Design, art direction and project management Text editor

Simon Jennings

Peter Leek

Design and production assistant

Amanda Allchin

Consultants Roger Bisby S John Dees

Illustrations editor David Day Illustrators Robin Harris & David Day

Additional illustrations Photographer

Brian Ctaker, Michael Parr S Brian Sayers

Ben Jennings

Additional photography Neil Waving and Paul Cfwe Proofreader Mary Morton

Research editor and technical consultant Simon Gilham T h e CD? catalogue record for this b o o k is available from the British L i b r a r y C o l o u r o r i g i n a t i o n by C o l o u r s e a n , Singapore Printed and b o u n d by C P ! Bath A l l rights reserved. N o part o f this p u b l i c a t i o n may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system o r transmitted i n any form o r by any means, electronic, m e c h a n i c a l , p h o t o c o p y i n g , recording o r otherwise, w i t h o u t the p r i o r w r i t t e n p e r m i s s i o n o f the copyright owner.

• PLEASE N O T E Great care has been taken t o ensure that the • i n f o r m a t i o n contained i n this b o o k is accurate. • However, the law c o n c e r n i n g B u i l d i n g Regulations, • p l a n n i n g , local bylaws and related matters is neither „ static nor simple. A book of this nature cannot replace • specialist advice in a p p r o p r i a t e cases and therefore • no responsibility can be accepted by the publisher o r by the authors for any loss o r damage caused • by reliance u p o n rhe accuracy o f such i n f o r m a t i o n . a

•

P l u m b i n g systems

6

Sinks

44

W a t e r regulations

6

Selecting

44

D i r e c t a n d indirecr

7

Installing

45

Draining

S

Appliances

46

9

Installing

46

Repairs Emergency

9

Storage tanks

49

Taps

10

Seats a n d glands

11

Cisterns a n d tanks

12

Float valves

13

S o l a r heating

52

Drainage

15

H o t water

52

Systems

16

Maintenance

16

Systems

53

Pipework

19

Boilers

54

Metal

19

Radiators

55

Plastic

24

Controls

57

Water closets

28

Diagnosis

58

Replacing

28

Draining and filling

59

Installing

30

Maintenance

60

Washbasins

31

Underfloor

66

Selecting

31

Taps

32

Installing

33

Baths

35

Installing Hot-water cylinders Selecting

Central heating

Electricity Switch equipment Safety Bathrooms

49 50 50

53

68 68 69 68

Selecting

35

Installing

36

Heaters

71

37

C o n n e c t i o n units

72

Selecting

37

I m m e r s i o n heaters

73

Mixers

38

Pump-assisted

39

Cubicles

40

Installing

41

Artificial ventilation

80

43

Glossary

81

43

Index

82

Showers

Bidets Installing

Wiring

Tools and s k i l l s Plumbing Reference

71

74 74 80

Cross-references Since there are few DIY projects that do not require a combination of skills, you might have to refer to more than one section of the book. The list of cross-references at the bottom of each page will help you locate relevant sections or specific information related to the job in hand.

Plumbing systems T h e u n p r e c e d e n t e d s u p p l y o f t o o l s a n d e a s y - t o - u s e h a r d w a r e has encouraged D I Y enthusiasts to tackle their o w n p l u m b i n g repairs a n d i m p r o v e m e n t s . A l m o s t every a s p e c t is n o w c a t e r e d for — w i t h a w i d e range o f m e t a l a n d p l a s t i c p i p e w o r k a n d a t t r a c t i v e f i t t i n g s and appliances, both for new installations and for rcfurbishmcnts.

% I

The advantages of DIY plumbing H a v i n g the wherewithal to tackle your o w n p l u m b i n g installations and repairs can save you the cost o f hiring professionals - and that can a m o u n t to a substantial sum o f money Ir also avoids the distress and inconvenience o f ruined decorations, and the expense of replacing rotted household timbers where a slow leak has gone undetected. T h e n there's the saving in water. A d r i p p i n g tap wastes gallons of water a day - and if it's hot water, there's the a d d i t i o n a l expense o f heating it. A little o f your time and a few pence spent on a washer can save you pounds.

Water systems Generally, domestic p l u m b i n g incorporates t w o systems. O n e is the supply of fresh water from the ' m a i n s ' , and the other is the waste o r drainage system that disposes o f d i r t y water. B o t h o f the systems c a n be installed in different ways (see opposite).

• Wiring Regulations When making tepairs or improvements to your plumbing, make sure you don't contravene the electrical Wiring Regulations. All metal plumbing has In be bonded to earth. It you replace e section o! metal plumbing with plastic, it is important to reinstate the earth link. (See far right)

Stored-water system (Indirect) T h e majority o f homes are p l u m b e d w i t h a stored-water supply system. T h e storage tank in the loft and the cold-water tap in the kitchen arc fed directly f r o m the mains; so possibly are your w a s h i n g machine, electric shower(s) and outside tap. B u t water for baths, washbasins, flushing W G s and some types o f shower is d r a w n from the storage t a n k , w h i c h s h o u l d be covered w i t h a purpose-made l i d to protect the water from c o n t a m i n a t i o n . D r i n k i n g water s h o u l d only be taken f r o m the cold-water tap in the kitchen. C o l d water from the storage tank is fed t o a hot-water cylinder, where it is heated by a boiler, indirectly, o r by an i m m e r s i o n heater t o s u p p l y the hot taps. The water pressure at the various taps in the house depends on the height (or 'drop') f r o m the tank t o the tap. A slored-watcr system provides several advantages. There is adequate water to flush sanitary ware d u r i n g

• Water bylaws govern the way you can . connect your p l u m b i n g system to the • p u b l i c water supply. These laws are • intended t o prevent the misuse, waste and c o n t a m i n a t i o n o f water. Y o u r • local water supplier w i l l provide you • w i t h the relevant i n f o r m a t i o n about • inspection requirements and possible certification for new work and for •

a

• major alterations. •

• Before undertaking work

T h e B u i l d i n g Regulations on drainage arc designed to protect health and safety. Before u n d e r t a k i n g work on your soil and waste pipes o r drains (except for emergency unblocking) you need t o contact the b u i l d i n g - c o n t r o l department o f your local authority. Y o u are required t o give five days notice t o your local water supplier a t e m p o r a r y m a i n s failure; rhe major before altering o r i n s t a l l i n g a lavatory part o f the supply is under relativelycistern, bidet, shower p u m p , hosepipe low pressure, so the system is reasonsupply, or any i n s t a l l a t i o n , such as a ably quiet; a n d because there arc fewer garden tap or shower, that c o u l d cause m a i n s outlets, there is less l i k e l i h o o d o f • d i r t y water t o be siphoned back into impure water being siphoned back i n t o • the supply o f d r i n k i n g water. the mains supply. m

a • • , • • • ^ • • • •

M a i n s - f e d system (Direct) M a n y properties now take a l i their water directly from the mains • all the taps are under high pressure, and all o f them provide water that's suitable for d r i n k i n g . T h i s development has c o m e about as a result o f l i m i t e d loft space that precludes a storage tank and the i n t r o d u c t i o n o f n o n - r e t u r n check valves, which prevent d r i n k i n g water being c o n t a m i n a t e d . 1 l o t water is s u p p l i e d by a c o m b i n a t i o n boiler o r a m u l t i p o i n t heater; these i n s t a n t a n eous heaters are unable t o m a i n t a i n a constant flow o f hot water i f too manytaps are r u n n i n g at once. Some systems incorporate a n unvented cylinder, w h i c h stores hot water but is fed from the m a i n s . A mains-fed system is cheaper to install than an indirect one. A n o t h e r advantage is mains pressure at all laps; and you c a n d r i n k from any c o l d tap in the house. W i t h a mains-fed system there's no p l u m b i n g in the loft to freeze.

Reinstate the link If you replace a section o¡ metal plumbing with plastic, you may break the path to earth - so make sure you reinstate the link. Bridge a plastic joint in a metal pipe with an earth wire and two clamps. It ynu are in any doubt, consult a qualified electrician.

MAINS-FED SYSTEM (opposite) 0 Wale t-sii pp I ie r' s stop c oc k May include water meter. Q Service pipe QlWain stopcock Q Rising main Supplies water directly to cold-water taps and WCsetc. Q W a t e r healat or combination boiler

Drainage Waste water is drained in one o f t w o ways. In houses built before the late 1950s, water is d r a i n e d from baths, sinks and basins into a waste pipe that feeds into a trapped gully at g r o u n d level. Toilet waste feeds separately into a large-diameter vertical s o i l pipe that runs directly t o the u n d e r g r o u n d m a i n drainage network.

WATER REGULATIONS

(JUnvented si a rage cylinder (Not required for instantaneous heatets) W i t h a single-stack waste system, which is installed in later buildings, all waste water drains into a single soil pipe - the one possible exception being the kitchen sink, which may drain into a gully. R a i n w a t e r usually feeds into a separate d r a i n , so that the house's drainage system w i l l not be flooded in the event of a s t o r m .

QSingle-stack soil pipe WC, handbasin, bath and shower drain into the stack. The stack may befitted with an air-admittance valve terminating inside Ihe house. Q S i n k waste Water from the sink drains into a trapped gully. Trapped gully

* ~ SEE ALSO: Draining rainwater 7, Garden tap 48, Earthing 68-70, Supplementary bonding 69-70,01

Direct and indirect systems

PLUMBING SYSTEMS

STORED-WATER SYSTEM Stored-water system • Central heating omitted fur clarity.

^

Water company stopcock The water company uses this stopcock to turn off the supply to the house. Make sure it can be located quickly in an emergency-

@ Service pipe From the water company stopcock onwards, the plumbing becomes the responsibility of the householder. (Sj) Household stopcock The water supply to the house itself is shut off at this point. Q Oraincock A draincock here allows you to drain water from the rising main. Q Rising main Mains-pressure water passes to the cold-water storage tank via therisingmain. Q

Drinking watet Drinking water is drawn off the rising main to the kitchen sink.

Q

Garden tap The water company allows a garden tap to be supplied with mains pressure, provided it is fitted with a check valve.

Q Float valve This ualve shuts off the supply (rem the rising main when the cistern is full. Q Cold-water storage tank Stores from 230 to 360 litres {50 tn SO gallons) of water. Positioned in Ihe roof, the tank provides sufficient 'head', or pressure, to feed the whole house. Q) Overflow pipe Also known as a warning pipe, it prevents an overflow by draining water to the outside. flj Cold-feed pipes Water is drawn off to the bathroom and to the hot-waler cylinder from the storage tank. ^

Mains-fed system

Central healing omitted lor clarity.

Cold-feed valves Valves at these points allow you to drain the cold water in Ihe feed pipe without having to drain the whole tank as well.

(£) HDt-water cylinder Water is heated and stored in this cylinder ij) Hot-feed pipe All hot water is fed from this point Vent pipe Allows for expansion cf heated water and enables air to be vented ftom the system. (Q Waste pipe Surmounted by a hopper head, it collects water from basin and bath. jfjrj Soil pipe Separate pipe takes toilet waste to main drains. Kitchen waste pipe Kitchen sink drains into same gully as waste pipe from upstairs. (JJ Trapped gully

•

SEE ALSO: Wet central heating 53

• Water meters Instead of paying a II at-rate water charge based upon the size of your home, you can opt to have your water consumption metered so you pay for what you use. For two people living in a large house, the savings can be considerable. Water meters are fitted to the incoming mains, usually outside at the supplier's stopcock, whete they can be read more easily.

Draining the system Y o n w i l l have t o d r a i n at least p a r t o f a n y p l u m b i n g s y s t e m before y o u c a n w o r k o n it; a n d i f y o u detect a l e a k , y o u w i l l have t o d r a i n the r e l e v a n t s e c t i o n q u i c k l y . S o f i n d o u t w h e r e the valves, s t o p c o c k a n d d r a i n c o c k s are s i t u a t e d , b e f o r e y o u ' r e faced w i t h a n emergency.

Draining cold-water taps and pipes • T u r n off the m a i n stopcock o n the rising m a i n to cut off the supply to the kitchen tap (and to all the other c o l d taps o n a direct System). • O p e n the tap until the flow ceases. • To isolate the hath room taps, close the valve o n the appropriate cold-feed pipe from the storage tank and open all taps

on that section. If you can't find a valve, rest a wooden batten across the tank and tie the a r m o f the float valve t o it. T h i s w i l l shut off the supply t o the tank, so you can empty it by r u n n i n g all the c o l d taps in the b a t h r o o m . If you can't get into the loft, m m off the m a i n stopcock, then r u n the c o l d taps.

Draining hot-water taps and pipes Saving hot watei If your gate valve won't close off and you don't want to drain all the hoi water, you can siphon the water nut ot the cold tank with a garden hosepipe. While the tank is empty, replace the old gate valve

• T u r n off i m m e r s i o n heater o r boiler. • C l o s e the valve o n the cold-feed pipe to the c y l i n d e r arid r u n the hot taps. Even when the water stops f l o w i n g , the cylinder w i l l still be full. • If there's no valve o n the cold-feed pipe, tie up the float-valve a r m , then turn on the c o l d taps i n the b a t h r o o m

ADDING EXTRA VALVES Unless y o u divide u p the system into relatively short pipe runs w i t h valves, y o u w i l l have t o drain off a substantial part of a typical p l u m b i n g installation even for a simple washer replacement. • Install a gate valve o n b o t h the cold feed pipes r u n n i n g from the cold-water storage tank. T h i s w i l l eliminate the necessity for d r a i n i n g off gallons of water in order t o isolate pipes and appliances o n the low-pressure coldand hot-water supply. • W h e n you are fitting new taps and appliances, take the o p p o r t u n i t y to fit m i n i a t u t e valves o n the supply pipes. In future, when y o u have t o repair an i n d i v i d u a l tap or appliance, you will he able to isolate it in moments.

to empty the storage tank, flf you r u n the hot taps first, the water stored in the tank w i l l flush out all your hot water from the cylinder.) W h e n the c o l d taps r u n dry, o p e n the hot taps. In an emergency, r u n the hot and c o l d taps together in order to clear the pipes as q u i c k l y as possible.

Draining a WG cistern • T o merely empty the W C cistern itself, tie u p its float-valve a r m a n d flush the W C . • T o empty the pipe that supplies the cistern, either turn off the m a i n stopcock o n a direct system or, o n an

indirect system, close the valve o n the c o l d feed f r o m the storage tank. Alternatively, shut off the supply t o the storage t a n k and empty it t h r o u g h the c o l d taps. Flush the W C until no more water enters its cistern.

Draining the cold-water storage tank • T o d r a i n the storage tank i n the roof space, close the main stopcock o n the rising m a i n , then open all the c o l d taps

in the b a t h r o o m (hot taps o n a direct system.) B a i l out the residue o f water at the b o t t o m o f the tank.

Gate valve Frta gate valve to the cold-feed pipes from the storage tank

Miniature valve Fita miniature valve to the supply pipes below a sink or basin.

Draining the hot-water cylinder • Sealed centralheating systems A sealed system (see StALED CENTRAL-KEATING SYSIEMSI does not have a teed-and-expansion tank-the radlatots are filled Item the mains via a flexible hose known as a filling loop. The indirect coil in the hot-water cylinder is drained as described right though you might have to open a vent pipe that is fitted to the cylinder before the water will flow.

• if the hot-water cylinder springs a leak (or you wish t o replace it), first turn off the i m m e r s i o n heater and boiler, then shut off the c o l d feed to the cylinder from the storage tank (or drain the coldwater storage tank - see above). Run hot water from the taps. • Locate a draincock from which you can dram the water remaining in the cylinder, it is probably located near the base o f the cylinder, where the c o l d feed from the storage tank enters. A t t a c h a hose and r u n it t o a drain o r sink that is lower than the cylinder. T u r n the squareheaded spindle o n the draincock till you hear water flowing. • Water can't be drained if the washer

is baked o n t o the d r a i n c o c k seating, so disconnect the vent pipe and insert a hosepipe to s i p h o n the cylinder. • S h o u l d y o u want t o replace the h o t water c y l i n d e r , d o n ' t d i s c o n n e c t a l l its p i p e w o r k until you have d r a i n e d the c y l i n d e r completely. If the water is heated i n d i r e c t l y by a heat-exchanger, there w i l l be a c o i l o f p i p e w o r k inside the h o t - w a t e r c y l i n d e r that is s t i l l full of water. T h i s c o i l c a n be d r a i n e d via the s t o p c o c k o n the b o i l e r after yoit have shut o f f the m a i n s s u p p l y t o the small fced-and-expansion tank, which is l o c a t e d i n t h e roof space. S w i t c h o f f the e l e c t r i c a l s u p p l y t o the c e n t r a l h e a t i n g system.

* - SEE ALSO: Cylinders 50-1, Radiators 55, Consumer unit 88

Closing .1 i i u . i i valve Cut oil the supply nf water to a storage tank hy lying the Hoal arm to a batten

Emergency repairs Partially drain the p l u m b i n g system if you intend t o leave the house u n occupied for a few days d u r i n g w i n t e r - if possible, leave the central heating on a low setting. F o r longer periods of absence at any time o f the year, you may want to take the precaution of draining the system completely.

Partial drain-down • Add special antifreeze to the centralheating feed-and-ex pan si on t a n k and set the heating to come o n for a short period twice a day. •Turn off the m a i n stopcock. • Open all the taps t o d r a i n the house's inter system.

It pays t o m a s t e r the s i m p l e t e c h n i q u e s f o r c o p i n g w i t h

emergency

r e p a i r s - i n o r d e r t o a v o i d the i n e v i t a b l e d a m a g e t o y o u r h o m e a n d p r o p e r t y , as w e l l as the h i g h c o s t o f c a l l i n g o u t a p l u m b e r at s h o r t n o t i c e . A l l y o u need is a s i m p l e t o o l k i t a n d a few spare p a r t s .

Thawing frozen pipes If water won't flow f r o m a tap d u r i n g c o l d weather, o r a tank refuses t o fill, a plug o f ice may have formed in one o f the supply pipes. T h e p l u g cannot be in a pipe s u p p l y i n g taps o r float valves that are w o r k i n g normally, so you should be able t o trace the blockage q u i c k l y In fact, freezing usually occurs first in the roof space. A s copper pipework transmits heat quickly, use a hairdryer ro gently w a r m the suspect pipe, starting as close its possible t o the affected tap o r valve and w o r k i n g a l o n g it. Leave the tap o p e n ,

so water can flow n o r m a l l y as soon as the ice thaws. If you can't heat the pipe w i t h a hairdryer, w r a p it in a hot towel o r hang a hot-water bottle over it, I'reventative measures Insulate pipework and fittings to stop t h e m freezing, particularly those in the loft o r under the floor. If you're going to leave the house unhealed for a long time d u r i n g the winter, d r a i n the system (see left). C u r e any d r i p p i n g taps, so leaking water doesn't freeze in your drainage system Overnight,

Dealing with a punctured pipe Attach hosepipe to rfraincock

Full drain-down • Switch off and extinguish the water heater and/or boiler. • Turn off the m a i n stopcock a n d , if possible, the water c o m p a n y stopcock outside, • Open all taps in the house to d r a i n the pipework. • Open the d r a i n c o c k at the base of the hot-water cylinder. If there are draincocks in the r i s i n g m a i n and in any other low pipework, d r a i n the water from these too. • Flush the W C s . • Drain the boiler and r a d i a t o r circuits at the lowest points on the pipe runs. • Add salt to the W C pan to prevent the trap water freezing.

Refilling the system • Close all taps and d r a i n c o c k s . • Turn tin the m a i n stopcock. • Turn on taps and allow water and air to escape. A s the system fills, dieck that float valves are o p e r a t i n g smoothly.

Curing an airlock Ait trapped i n the system c a n cause a tap to splutter. T h e answer is to force the air out by using mains pressure. Attach a length of hose between the affected tap and any mams-fed c o l d tvatcr tap. Leave both taps open for a short while, and then try the airlocked tap again. Repeat i f necessary, until the water runs freely.

Unless you are absolutely sure where your pipes r u n , it is all too easy to nail through one o f them when fixing a loose floorboard. You may be able to detect a hissing sound as water escapes under pressure, but more than likely yon won't notice your mistake until a wet patch appears on the ceiling below, o r some problem associated wtth d a m p occurs at

a later date. W h i l e the nail is in place, water w i l l leak relatively slowly, so don't pull it out until you have drained the pipework and can repair the leak. If you pull out the nail by lifting a floorboard, replace the nail immediately. If y o u p l a n t o lay fitted carpet, you can paint pipe runs o n the floorboards to avoid such accidents in future.

Patching a leak D u r i n g freezing conditions, water w i t h i n a pipe turns to ice, which expands until it eventually splits the walls of the pipe o r forces a joint apart. C o p p e r pipework is more likely to split than lead, which can stretch to accommodate the expansion and thus survive a tew bard winters before reaching breaking point. T e m p o r a r i l y patch copper o r lead pipes as described right — but close up a split in lead beforehand by tapping the pipe gently w i t h a hammer. Arrange to replace the o l d lead w i t h copper pipeas soon as you have contained the leak.

B i n d i n g a l e a k i n g pipe Fot a t e m p o r a r y repair, cut a length of garden hose t o cover the leak a n d slit it lengthwise, so you can slip it over the pipe. B i n d the hose w i t h t w o o r three hose c l i p s ; or, using pliers, twist wire loops a r o u n d the hose. Alternatively, use a m a l g a m a t i n g tape made for b i n d i n g damaged pipes.

T h e o n l y other reason for l e a k i n g p l u m b i n g is mechanical failure - eithet t h r o u g h deterioration o f the materials o r because a joint has failed and is no longer completely waterproof.

1'atching w i t h epoxy putty E p o x y putty adheres t o most metals and h a r d plastic and w i l l produce a fairly long-term repair, a l t h o u g h it is better to insert a new length o f pipe. T h e putty is s u p p l i e d in t w o parts w h i c h begin to harden as soon as they are m i x e d together, g i v i n g about 20 minutes t o complete the repair.

If possible, make a permanent repair, by inserting a new section o f pipe o r replacing a l e a k i n g joint. (If it is a compression joint that has failed, try tightening it first.) F o r the time being, however, you may have t o make an emcrgctv.v repair. D r a i n the pipe first unless it is frozen, in w h i c h case make the repair before it thaws.

First clean a 25 t o 5 0 m m (] t o 2in) length o f pipe on each side o f the leak, using w i r e w o o l . M i x the putty and press it i n t o the hole o r a r o u n d a joint, b u i l d i n g it t o a thickness o f .Î t o 6 m m {V» t o Win). It w i l l cure t o full strength w i t h i n 24 hours, but you c a n run lowpressure water immediately i f you bind the putty w i t h self-adhesive tape.

* • SEE ALSO: Compression joints 20, Joining pipes 20-4

Thawing a froien pipe Play a hairdryer gently along a frozen pipe, working away from the blocked lap or valve.

Closing a split pipe In an emergency, close a split by tapping Ihe pipe with a hammer before you bind it. This works particularly well with lead pipe.

Binding a split pipe Bind a length of hosepipe around a damaged pipe, using hose clips or wire. Alternatively, use an amalgamating tape

Smoothing epoxy putty When patching a hole with epoxy pulty, smooth it with a damp soapy cloth lo give a neat finish.

9

Repairing a leaking tap

REPAIRS

A tap may leak f o r a n u m b e r o f reasons — none o f them difficult t o d e a l w i t h . W h e n w a t e r d r i p s f r o m a s p o u t , f o r e x a m p l e , i t is u s u a l l y the r e s u l t o f a f a u l t y w a s h e r ; a n d i f the t a p is o l d , the seat a g a i n s t w h i c h the w a s h e r is c o m p r e s s e d m a y b e w o r n , t o o . If w a t e r leaks f r o m b e n e a t h the h e a d o f the t a p w h e n it's i n use, the g l a n d p a c k i n g o r O - r i n g needs r e p l a c i n g . W h e n y o u a r c w o r k i n g o n a t a p , i n s e r t t h e p l u g a n d l a y a t o w e l i n t h e b o t t o m o f the w a s h b a s i n , bath o r sink t o catch s m a l l objects.

Replacing a washer To replace the washer in a t r a d i t i o n a l bib o r p i l l a r rap, first d r a i n the supply pipe, then open the valve as far as possible before you begin d i s m a n t l i n g either k i n d o f tap. Removing, a shrouded head from a Tap On most modern taps the head and cover is in one piece. Vou will have to remove it to expose the headgear nut. Often a retaining screw is hidden beneath the coloured hot/cold disc in the centre of the head. Prise out the disc with the point of a knife (1). If there's no retaining screw, simplv pull the head off (2).

gear. In some taps the jumper is removed along w i t h the headgear (2), but in other types it w i l l be lying inside the tap body.

L i f t up the cover t o reveal the headgear nut just above the body o f the tap. Slip a n a r r o w spanner o n r o the nut a n d unscrew it (1) until you can lift out the entire headgear assembly.

T h e washer itself may be pressed over a small button in the centre of the lumper (3) — m which case, p r i s t it off with a screwdriver. If the washer is held in place by a nut, it can be difficult to remove. A l l o w penetrating oil to soften any c o r r o s i o n ; then, h o l d i n g the jtimpet stem w i t h pliers, unscrew the nut w i t h a snug-fitting spanner (4), (If the nut won't budge, replace the whole jumper and washer.)

T h e jumper t o which the washer is fixed fits into the b o t t o m of the head-

Fit a new washer and retaining nut, then reassemble the tap.

If the tap is shrouded w i t h a metal cover, unscrew it by h a n d o r use a w r e n c h , t a p i n g the jaws t o protect the chrome finish.

Traditional pillar tap The components of a pillar tap 1 Capstan hca 2 Metal shroud 3 Gland nut (Spindle 5 Headgear nut 6 Jumpet 7 Washer 8 Tap body 9 Seat 10 Tail

SERVICING REVERSEPRESSURE TAPS

1 Loosen headgear nut

2 Lift out headgear

3 Prise off washer

1 Or undo fixing nut

Curing a dripping ceramic-disc tap 1 Prise out the disc

In theory ceramic-disc taps are m a i n tenance free, but faults can still occur. Since there's no washer t o replace, you have to replace the whole inner cartridge when the tap leaks. However, before y o u proceed, check that the lower seal is not d a m a g e d , as this can cause the tap to drip. T u r n off the water and remove the headgear from the lap body by t u r n i n g it a n t i c l o c k w i s e w i t h a spanner (1). Remove the cartridge and e x a m i n e it

for wear o r damage (2). C l e a n i n g any debris off the ceramic discs might be all that is required; but i f a disc is cracked, then you w i l l need a new cartridge. C a r t r i d g e s arc handed — left (hot) and right (cold) - so be sure t o order the correct one.

Y o u can replace the washer in a reversepressure tap without t u r n i n g off the water supply. Loosen the l o c k i n g nut with a spanner (1); it has a left-hand thread, so you need to turn it clockwise (when viewed from above). To release the tap body into your hand (2), turn the tap o n the initial jet of water w i l l stop automatically. Gently tap the body on a wooden surface to eject the finned nozzle from inside. Prise off the combined jumper and washer, and replace it (3).

A t the same time, examine the rubber seal on the bottom o f the cartridge. If rhis is w o r n o r damaged, it w i l l cause the tap t o drip. If need be, replace the seal w i t h a new one (3). Reverse-pressure tap

i Loosen looking nut

2 Remove tap hnily

3 Prise off Jumper

1 Pull the head off

10

•

1 Utisctew the cartridge

2 Lift out and examine

3 Replace a worn rubber seal

;*r SEE ALSO: Bib lap 2G, Tap mechanisms 32, Spanners and wrenches 77-8

Repairing seats and glands Regrinding the seat If a tap continues to drip after you have replaced the washer, the seat is probably worn, allowing water to leak past the washer. One way to cure this is t o grind the seat flat with a special reseating tool available from plumber's suppliers. Remove the headgear and jumper, so you can screw the reseating tool into the body of the tap. Adjust the cutter

I Revolve Ihe loci te smooth the seat

until it is in contact w i t h the seat, then turn the handle ro smooth the metal (1). Alternatively, you can cover the o l d seat w i t h a n y l o n liner that is sold w i t h a m a t c h i n g jumper and washer (2). D r o p the liner over the o l d seat, replace rhe jumper a n d assemble the tap. Finally, close the tap t o force the liner into p o s i t i o n .

O n a mixer tap each valve is usually fitted w i t h a washer, as on couventiona taps, but i n most mixers the gland p a c k i n g (see left) has been replaced by a rubber O - r i n g . H a v i n g removed the s h r o u d e d head, take out the c i r c l i p h o l d i n g the spindlt in place (1). Remove the spindle and slip the O - r i n g out o f its groove (2). Replace the o l d ring w i t h a new one, u s i n g silicone grease as a l u b r i c a n t , then reassemble the tap.

2 Repair a worn seat with a nylon liner I Remove circlip

ing a leaking gland The head of a tap is fixed t o a shaft o r spindle, which is screwed up or down to control the flow o f water. The spindle passes through a gland - also k n o w n as a stuffing box - on top of the headgear assembly. A watertight packing is forced into the gland by a nut to prevent water leaking past the spindle when the tap is turned on. If water drips from under the head of the tap, the gland packing has failed and needs replacing. Some taps incorporate a rubber O-ringtbat slips over the spindle to perform the same function as the packing (see fight). Replacing the gland p a c k i n g There is no need to t u r n off the supply of water to replace g l a n d p a c k i n g : just make sure the tap is turned off fully. To remove a cross o r capstan head, expose a fixing screw by p i c k i n g out

the plastic p l u g in the centre o f the head, o r l o o k for a screw h o l d i n g it at the side. L i f t off the head by r o c k i n g it from side to side, o r tap it gently f r o m below w i t h a hammer. If the head is stuck firmly, open the tap as far as possible, unscrew the cover, and wedge wooden p a c k i n g between it and the headgear (1), C l o s i n g the tap w i l l then jack the head off the spindle.

2 Roll ring from groove

T h e base o f a mixer's swivel spout is also sealed w i t h a washer o r O - r i n g . If water seeps f r o m that j u n c t i o n , turn off b o t h valves and unscrew the spout, or remove the retaining screw (3) o n one side. N o t e the type o f seal and buy a m a t c h i n g replacement.

^ .il

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|| M 1

======

jf

| | A—A,

O n c e you have removed the head and cover, try t o seal the leak by tightening the gland nut. If that fails, remove the nut and pick out the o l d p a c k i n g w i t h a s m a l l screwdriver. To replace the p a c k i n g , either use the special fibre s t r i n g available f r o m p l u m b e r s ' merchants o r t w i s t a thread f r o m P T F E (polyretrafluorethylene) tape. W i n d the s t r i n g a r o u n d the spindle, and pack it i n t o the g l a n d w i t h the screwdriver (2).

Stopcocks and valves Stopcocks and gate valves are used so rarely that they often fail to w o r k just when they are needed.

1 Jack [he head off a lap with wooden packing

Gland packing Older-style laps are sealed with watertight packing around the spindle.

2 Stuff string or a thread of PTFE tape into the gland

M a k e sure that rhey are operating s m o o t h l y by c l o s i n g a n d o p e n i n g them from time to time. If their spindles move stiffly, lubricate t h e m w i t h a little penetrating o i l . A stopcock is fitted w i t h a standard washer, but as it is hardly ever under pressure ir is unlikely to wear. However, the gland p a c k i n g {see left) o n b o t h stopcocks and gate valves may need attention.

ALSO: Tap mechanisms 32, Gate value 8,20, PTFE tape 22, 81, Reseating tool 79, Stopcock 81

O-ring seal Modern taps are sealed with rubber rings, in place cf gland packing.

3 Remove the screw to release the mixer spool. You can use a cranked screwdriver (below) if the retaining screw is locered behind ihe swivel spout.

REPAIRS CISTERNS A N D

Maintaining cisterns and storage tanks T h e m e c h a n i s m s used i n W C

Direct-action cistarn The components of a typical direct-action WC cistern, 1 Baal valve 2 Float 3 Float arm 4 Flushing lever 5 Wire link 6 Perforated plate 7 One-piece siphon 8 Flap valve 9 Overflow 10 Sealing washer 11 Retaining nut 12 Flush-pipe connector

c i s t e r n s a n d s t o r a g e t a n k s are probably the most

overworked

o f a l l p l u m b i n g c o m p o n e n t s , so s e r v i c i n g is r e q u i r e d f r o m t i m e to time to keep them o p e r a t i n g p r o p e r l y . Y o u c a n get the spare parts y o u need f r o m p l u m b e r s ' m e r c h a n t s a n d D I Y stores. L o w - l e v e l W C c i s t e r n s are p a r t i c u l a r l y easy to s e r v i c e , b u t even a n o l d - s t y l e w a l l - m o u n t e d W C cistern can be reached w i t h a stepladder. Miniature float valve This type ot float valve is designed for installing in WC cisterns only.

T h e s t o r a g e t a n k i n the l o f t

Three-pan siphon • This type of siphon can be dismantled for replacement of the flap valve without having to shut off the water or drain the cistern

is s i m p l y a c o n t a i n e r f o r c o l d water. O t h e r t h a n a l e a k , w h i c h is u n l i k e l y w i t h m o d e r n t a n k s , the o n l y p r o b l e m s t h a t a r i s e are caused by

float-valve

failure.

The v a l v e i n a s t o r a g e t a n k is s i m i l a r to those used f o r W C c i s t e r n s , h u t y o u s h o u l d never replace o n e w i t h a m i n i a t u r e float valve.

t REPLACING A FLAP VALVE

2 Release flush pipe

If a W C cistern w i l l not flush first time, take off the lid and check that the lever is actually operating the flushing mechanism. If that appears to he w o r k i n g normally, then try replacing the flap valve in the s i p h o n . Before you service a one-piece siphon, shut off the water by t y i n g the float a r m to a batten placed across the cistern (1). H u s h the cistern. Use a large wrench t o unscrew the nut that holds the flush pipe t o the underside o f the cistern (2|. M o v e the pipe t o one side.

3 Loosen retaining nut

4 Liftoff flap valve

Release the retaining nut that clamps the s i p h o n t o the base o f the cistern (3). A little water w i l l run out as you loosen the nut - so have a bucket handy. (You may find that the s i p h o n is bolted t o the base o f the cistern, instead o f being clamped by a smgle retaining nut.) Disconnect the flushing a r m , then ease the s i p h o n out of the cistern. Lift the d i a p h r a g m off the metal plate (4) and replace it w i t h one o f the same size. Reassemble the entire flushing mechanism in the reverse order and reconnect the flush pipe t o the cistern.

Direct-action WC cisterns M o s t modern W C s are washed d o w n by means of direct-action cisterns. Water enters the cistern through a valve, which is opened and closed by the action of a hollow float attached to one end of a rigid a r m . A s the water rises in the cistern, it lifts the float until the other end of the a r m closes the valve and shuts off the supply. F l u s h i n g is carried out by depressing a lever, which is linked by wire to a r o d attached t o a perforated plastic o r metal plate at the b o t t o m o f an inverted l l - b c n d tube (siphon). A s the plate rises, the perforations arc scaled by a flexible plastic d i a p h r a g m [flap valve), so the plate can displace a body o f water over the U - b c n d t o promote a s i p h o n i n g a c t i o n . T h e water pressure behind the d i a p h r a g m lifts it, so that the contents o f the cistern flow up t h r o u g h the perforations in the plate,

over the U-bend and d o w n the flush pipe. A s the water level in the eistetn drops, so does the float - thus opening the float valve to refill the cistern. Servicing cisterns T h e tew problems associated w i t h this type of cistern are easy to solve. A faulty float valve or poorly adjusted float arm w i l l allow water to leak into the cistern until it drips from the overflow pipe that runs t o the outside o f the house. Slow o r noisy filling can often be rectified by replacing the float valve. If the cistern w i l l not flush until the lever is operated several times, the flap valve probably needs replacing (see left). If the flushing lever feels slack, check that the wire link at the end o f the flushing arm is intact. W h e n water runs continuously into the pan, check the condition o f the washer at the base of the s i p h o n .

Making a new wire link It is impossible t o flush a W C cistern if the flushing lever has come adrift. Y o u may find rhe o l d link is l y i n g at the b o t t o m o f the cistern but i l n o t .

you can bend one f r o m a piece of thick wire. If yoti have thin wire only, twist the ends together w i t h pliers to make a temporary repair.

Curing continuous running water If you notice that water is r u n n i n g into the pan continuously, turn off the supply and let the cistern d r a i n . T h e n check to see whether the siphon has split. If not, try changing the sealing washer.

SEE ALSO: Adjusting the float arm 14, Spanners and wrenches 77-8

Alternatively, the water may be flowing from the float valve so q u i c k l y that the s i p h o n i n g action is not interrupted. T h e solution is ro fit a float-valve seat w i t h a smaller water inlet (see opposite).

IDIAPHRAGM VALVES The pivoting e n d o f the float a r m o n a diaphragm valve ( k n o w n i n the trade as a Part 2 valve) presses against the end of a small plastic p i s t o n , w h i c h moves the large rubber d i a p h r a g m to ical the water inlet.

Renovating float valves A f a u l t y float v a l v e is r e s p o n s i b l e f o r m o s t o f t h e d i f f i c u l t i e s t h a t arise w i t h W C cisterns a n d water-storage tanks. T h e water inlet i n s i d e the v a l v e u s e d t o b e s e a l e d w i t h a w a s h e r , w h e r e a s

modern

v a l v e s a r c f i t t e d w i t h a l a r g e d i a p h r a g m i n s t e a d , d e s i g n e d to p r o t e c t the m e c h a n i s m f r o m scale deposits. Y o u c a n still o b t a i n the earlier v a l v e s , b u t fit a d i a p h r a g m v a l v e i n a n e w i n s t a l l a t i o n . If the i n l e t i s n ' t s e a l e d p r o p e r l y , w a t e r c o n t i n u e s t o feed i n t o the c i s t e r n a n d e s c a p e s v i a the o v e r f l o w . S o m e o v e r f l o w p i p e s a r e n ' t able to c o p e w i t h a f u l l flow o f m a i n s w a t e r , so r e p a i r a d r i p p i n g

VALVE SEAT

1 Diaphragm valve; retaining cap to the front RETAINING WATER OUTLET

VALVE SEAT

2 Diaphragm valve: retaining nut to the rear

Replacing the diaphragm Turn off the water supply, then unscrew the large retaining cap. Depending o n the model, the nut may be screwed onto the end o f the valve (1) o r behind it (2). With the latter type of valve, slide out the cartridge inside the body (3) to find the d i a p h r a g m behind it. W i t h the former, you w i l l find a s i m i l a r piston and d i a p h r a g m immediately behind the retaining cap |4). Wash the valve, before assembling it along w i t h the new d i a p h r a g m .

float

v a l v e before the flow b e c o m e s a t o r r e n t .

Servicing Portsmouth-pattern valves In a Portsmouth-pattern valve, a piston moves horizontally inside the hollow metal body. T h e float a r m , pivoting o n a split p i n , moves the piston back a n d forth to control the flow o f water. A washer trapped in the end o f the piston finally seals the inlet by pressing against the valve seat. If you have to force the valve closed to stop water d r i p p i n g , it's time to replace the washer. R e p l a c i n g the washer Cut off the supply of water to the cistern or tank a n d flush the water out, in case you d r o p a component. R a m o w the split p i n from beneath the valve and detach the float a r m . II there is a screw cap o n the end o f the valve body, remove it (1), using a pair o f slip-joint pliers (yon may have to apply a little penetrating o i l to ease the threads), insert the tip o f a screwdriver in the slot beneath the valve body a n d slide the p i s t o n out (2).

PISTON SCREW-

• W A T E R INLET

CAP

WASHER

SEAT

W A T E R OUTLET FLOAT

ARM

Ports mouth, patte m valve FLOAT

clean the piston with fine wire w o o l . Some pistons d o n ' t have a removableend cap, a n d so the washer has to be d u g o u t w i t h a p o i n t e d k n i f e . Since it's a tight fit w i t h i n a groove in the p i s t o n , make sure you don't damage this type o f washer when replacing it.

ARM

Croydnn-pattem valve Only old-fashioned tanks will be lilted with this valve. The piston travels vertically to close againsl the seat. Replace the washer as described left.

Use wet-and-dry paper wrapped a r o u n d a dowel rod to clean inside the valve body, but take care not to damage the valve scat at the far e n d .

T o remove the washer, unscrew the end cap o f the piston w i t h pliers. Steady the piston by holding a screwdriver i n its slot (3). Pick the o l d washer o u t o f the cap (4) - but before replacing the washer.

Reassemble the p i s t o n a n d smear it lightly w i t h silicone grease. Assemble the valve, then connect the float a r m . Restore the supply o f water a n d adjust the a r m to regulate the water level i n the cistern.

1 Take screw cap from the end of Ihe valve

2 Slide ihe piston out with a screwdriver

3 Split the piston into two parts

4 Pick out ihe washer Willi a screwdriver

3 Slide out the canritfge to release the diaphragm

4 Undo the cap arid pull float aim to find the valve

SEE ALSO: Turning off the wafer 6-9, Adjusting a float arm 14, Slip-joint pliers 79

Interchangeable valve seats The plastic seat against which the washer or diaphragm closes has a large inlet for lowpressure water or a small inlet lor mains or high pressure. Seats that are damaged or worn should be replaced.

REPAIRS FLOAT VALVES

Renovating valves and floa Adjusting the float arm

Curing noisy cisterns

Renewing a float valve

A d j u s t the float so as t o m a i n t a i n the o p t i m u m level o f water, w h i c h is about 2 5 m m ( l i n ) b e l o w the outlet o f the overflow pipe.

C i s t e r n s that fill noisily can be very a n n o y i n g , p a r t i c u l a r l y if the W C is situated right next to a b e d r o o m . It was once permitted t o screw a pipe i n t o the outlet o f a valve so that it h u n g vertically below the level o f the water. T h i s solved the problem o f water s p l a s h i n g i n t o the cistern, but water c o m p a n i e s were concerned about the possibility o f water 'backs i p h o n i n g ' t h r o u g h the silencer tube into the m a i n s supply A l t h o u g h rigid tubes arc banned nowadays, you arc permitted to fit a valve w i t h a flexible plastic silencer tube (see far left}, because it w i l l seal itself by c o l l a p s i n g s h o u l d b a c k - s i p h o n i n g occur.

T u r n off the supply of water to the cistern o r tank and flush the pipework, then use a spanner t o loosen the tap connector j o i n i n g the supply pipe to the float-valve stem. Remove the float a r m , then unscrew the f i x i n g nut o n the outside o f rhe cistern and pull our the valve.

T he a r m o n a P o r t s m o u t h - p a t t e r n valve is usually a solid-metal r o d . Y o u bend it d o w n w a r d slightly t o reduce the water level, o r straighten it in order to a d m i t m o r e water (1). T h e a r m o n a d i a p h r a g m valve has an adjusting screw, w h i c h presses o n the end o f the p i s t o n . Release the lock nut and turn the screw towards the valve to lower the water level, o r away from it to a l l o w the water t o rise (2).

Fit the replacement valve a n d , i f possible, use rhe same tap connector to j o i n it to the supply pipe. A d j u s t and tighten the f i x i n g nuts to clamp the new valve ro the cistern, then turn the water supply back o n a n d adjust the float a r m .

A silencer tube c a n also prevent water h a m m e r - a r h y t h m i c t h u d d i n g that reverberates a l o n g the pipework. T h i s is often the result o f ripples o n rhe surface o f the water in a cistern, caused by a heavy S o w f r o m the float valve. A s the water rises, the float a r m b o u n c i n g on the ripples ' h a m m e r s ' the valve, a n d the sound is amplified and transmitted a l o n g the pipes. A flexible plastic tube w i l l eliminate ripples by i n t r o d u c i n g water b e l o w the surface.

Renewing a float valve Clamp the velve to the cistern with fixing nuts

If the water pressure t h r o u g h the valve is too h i g h , the a r m oscillates as it tries t o close the valve - another cause o f water hammer. T h i s c a n be cured by fitting a n e q u i l i b r i u m valve. A s water flows through the valve, some of it is i n t r o d u c e d behind the p i s t o n • Float valves are made to suit different or d i a p h r a g m to equalize the pressure • water pressures: low, m e d i u m and high on each side, so that the valve closes (LP, M P and H P ) . It is i m p o r t a n t to s m o o t h l y a n d silently. • choose a valve o f the correct pressure, Before s w a p p i n g your present valve, • o r the cistern may take a l o n g time check that the pipework is c l i p p e d • t o fill. Conversely, if the water pressure securely - as the noise c o u l d be caused _ is too high for rhe valve, it may leak by v i b r a t i n g pipes. • continuously. T h o s e fed direct from the • mains s h o u l d be H P valves, whereas • most domestic W C cisterns require an DIAPHRAGM . L P valve. If the head (the height o f the • tank above the float valve) is greater • t h a n 13.5m (45ft), fit an M P valve. In those rare cases where the head exceeds . 30m (100ft), fit a n H P valve. In an

: CHOOSING THE :CORRECT PRESSURE •

Thumb-screw adjustment Some float arms are cranked, and the float is attached with a thumb-screw Clamp To adjust the water level in the cistern, slide the float up ot down the rod.

B

2 Diaphragm valve Adjust the screw to regulate the water level

Replacing the float

m

M o d e r n plastic floats rarely leak, but old-style metal floats eventually corrode and allow water t o seep i n t o the ball. T h e float gradually sinks, until it won't ride high enough to close the valve. Float valve with flexible silencer tube

U n s c r e w the float and shake it, t o find o u t whether there is water inside. If you won't be able t o o b t a i n a new float for several days, lay the b a l l o n a bench, enlarge the l e a k i n g hole w i t h a screwdriver and p o u r out the water. Cover the ball w i t h a plastic bag, tying the neck tightly a r o u n d the floar a r m , a n d then replace the float.

• apartment w i t h a packaged p l u m b i n g • system (a storage tank built on top of • the hot-water c y l i n d e r ) , the pressure may be so l o w that y o n w i l l have t o fit s

EQUILIBRIUM

CHAMBER

•iaphragm-lype equilibrium valve

• a full-way valve ro the W C cistern in • order to get it to fill reasonably quickly, If you live in an area where water 9

EQUILIBRIUM

CHAMBER

CAP

HOLLOW PISTON FLOAT A R M

Piston-type equilibrium valve

SEE ALSO: Float values 8,13, 81, Supporting pipes 23

• pressure fluctuates a great deal, fit an • e q u i l i b r i u m valve (see left). To alter the pressure of a m o d e m , valve, s i m p l y replace the seat inside it. • If the valve is a very o l d pattern, you • w i l l have t o swap it for another one of • a different pressure.

Drainage systems

RESPONSIBILITY FOR DRAINS

A drainage system is d e s i g n e d t o c a r r y d i r t y w a t e r a n d W C waste

If a house is drained i n d i v i d u a l l y , the w h o l e system up to the p o i n t where it joins the sewer is the responsibility of the householder. H o w e v e r , where a house is connected t o a c o m m u n a l drainage system l i n k i n g several houses, the arrangement f o r maintenance, i n c l u d i n g the clearance o f blockages, is not so straightforward.

from the a p p l i a n c e s i n y o u r h o m e t o u n d e r g r o u n d d r a i n s l e a d i n g to the m a i n sewer. T h e v a r i o u s b r a n c h e s o f the w a s t e s y s t e m are protected b y U - b e n d traps f u l l o f w a t e r , t o s t o p d r a i n s m e l l s f o u l i n g the h o u s e . D e p e n d i n g o n the a g e o f y o u r h o u s e , i t w i l l have a t w o pipe system o r a single s t a c k . B e c a u s e the t w o - p i p e s y s t e m has been in use f o r very m u c h l o n g e r , it is s t i l l the m o r e c o m m o n o f the t w o .

DRAINAGE SYSTEMS

Use s i m i l a r m e t h o d s t o m a i n t a i n either s y s t e m .

Two-pipe system

Single-stack system

The waste pipes of older houses are divided into t w o separate systems. W C waste is fed into a large-diameter vertical soil pipe that leads directly to the underground drains. T o discharge drain gases at a safe height a n d make sure that b a c k - s i p h o n i n g cannot empty the W C traps, the soil pipe is vented to the open air above the guttering.

Since the late 1950s, most houses have been drained using a singlc-srack system. Waste f r o m basins, baths and W C s is fed into the same vertical s o i l pipe o r stack - w h i c h , unlike the t w o pipe system, is often built inside the house. A single-stack system must be designed carefully to prevent a heavy discharge of waste f r o m one appliance s i p h o n i n g the trap of another, a n d t o avoid the possibility o f W C waste b l o c k i n g othet branch pipes. T h e vent pipe o f the stack terminates above the roof a n d is capped w i t h an open cage; or inside the house and is fitted w i t h an air-admittance valve (see far right).

Individual branch pipes leading from upstairs washbasins and baths d r a i n into an open hopper that funnels the water into another vertical waste pipe. Instead o f feeding directly into the underground drains, this pipe t e r m i n ates over a yard gully - another trap covered by a grid. A separate waste pipe from the kitchen sink n o r m a l l y drains into the same gully. The yard gully and soil pipe both discharge into an underground inspection chamber, or manhole. These chambers provide access t o the main drains for clearing blockages, and there w i l l be one wherever your main d r a m changes direction o n its way to the sewer. At the last inspection chamber, just before the drain enters the sewer, there is an interceptor trap, die final barrier to drain gases and sewer rats.

If the drains were constructed p r i o r t o 1937, the l o c a l c o u n c i l is responsible for cleansing but can reclaim the cost of r e p a i r i n g any part o f the c o m m u n a l system from the householders. After r h a i date, all responsibility falls upon the householders collectively, so that they are required ro share the cosr o f the repair a n d cleansing o f the drains up to the sewer, no matter where the p r o b l e m occurs. C o n t a c t the Technical Services D e p a r t m e n t o f your l o c a l c o u n c i l to f i n d out w h o is responsible for y o u r drains.

T h e kitchen sink can be drained through the same stack, but it is still c o m m o n practice to d r a i n sink waste into a yard gully. N o w a d a y s waste pipes must pass through the g r i d , stopping short o f the water in the gully trap so that even i f blocked w i t h leaves, the waste can discharge unobstructed into the gully. Alternatively, it can be a backinlet gully, w i t h the waste pipe entering below g r o u n d level.

Ventilating pipes and stacks An air-admittance valve seals off the vent pipe, but allows air into the system to prevent watet being siphoned from Ihe trap seals. This type of valve can only be used if the drainage scheme has been approved by the local authority.

A downstairs W C is sometimes drained t h r o u g h its o w n b r a n c h d r a i n to an inspection chamber.

Prefabricated chamber On a modern drainage system, ihe inspection chambers may take the form of cylindrical prefabricated units. There may not be an interceptor trap in the last chamber before the sewer.

Turn-pipe system 1 Seil pipe ZHopper 3 Waste pipe 4 Yard gully 5 Inspection chamber

Single-stack system 11nterior soil pipe 2 All branch pipes run to stack 3 Inspection chamber

A chainhet with interceptor trap

SEE ALSO: Plumbing systems 6-8, Blocked soil pipe 17, Yard gully 17, Blocked drains 18

15

MAINTENANCE

Clearing blocked sinks and basins Using a plunger

D o n ' t i g n o r e the e a r i y signs o f an i m m i n e n t b l o c k a g e i n the

If one basin fails t o empty while others arc functioning normally, the blockage must be somewhere along its i n d i v i d u a l branch pipe. Before you attempt t o locate the blockage, try forcing it out of the pipe w i t h a sink plunger. Smear the rim o f the rubber cup w i t h petroleum jelly, then lower it into the blocked basin to cover the waste outlet. M a k e sure that there's enough water in the basin to

waste p i p e f r o m a s i n k , b a t h o r b a s i n . If the w a t e r d r a i n s a w a y s l o w l y , use a c h e m i c a l c l e a n e r t o r e m o v e a p a r t i a l b l o c k a g e before y o u are faced w i t h c l e a r i n g a serious o b s t r u c t i o n . I f a w a s t e pipe b l o c k s w i t h o u t w a r n i n g , t r y a series o f m e a s u r e s t o l o c a t e a n d c l e a r the o b s t r u c t i o n .

cover the cup. H o l d a wet cloth in the overflow w i t h one hand while you pump the handle o f the plunger up and down a few times. T h e waste may not clear immediately if the blockage is merely forced further along rhc pipe, so repeat the process until the water drains away If it w i l l not clear after several attempts, try clearing the trap, o r use a p u m p to clear the pipe (sec left).

Clearing the trap

Cleansin g the waste pine

T h e trap situated immediately below the waste outlet of a sink o r basin is basically a bent tube designed to h o l d water t o seal out d r a i n odours. Traps become blocked when debris collects ar the lowest p o i n t o f the bend.

Grease, h a i r and particles o f kitchen debris b u i l d up g r a d u a l l y w i t h i n the traps and waste pipes. Regular c l e a n i n g w i t h a proprietary chemical d r a i n cleaner w i l l keep the waste system clear and sweet-smelling.

Place a bucket under the basin to catch the water, then use a wrench to release the c l e a n i n g eye at the base o f a standard trap; o n a bottle trap, remove the large access cap by h a n d . If there is no p r o v i s i o n for g a i n i n g access to the

If water drains away sluggishly, use a cleaner immediately. F o l l o w the m a n u facturer's instructions carefully, w i t h p a r t i c u l a r regard to safety. A l w a y s wear protective gloves and goggles when h a n d l i n g c h e m i c a l cleaners, and keep them out o f the reach o f c h i l d r e n .

trap, unscrew the connecting nuts and remove the entire trap. Let the contents o f the trap drain into the bucket, then bend a hook o n the end of a length o f wire and use it to probe the section of waste pipe beyond the trap. (Ir is also w o r t h checking outside, to see if the other end of the pipe is blocked w i t h leaves.) If you have had to remove the trap, take the opportunity to scrub it out w i t h detergent before replacing it.

Cleaning the branch pipe

If unpleasant o d o u r s linger after you've cleaned the waste, pour a little disinfectant into the basin overflow.

Q u i t e often, a verrical pipe from the trap joins a v i r t u a l l y h o r i z o n t a l section of the waste p i p e . There s h o u l d be an access p l u g built into the joint, so that y o u can clear the h o r i z o n t a l pipe. Have a b o w l ready to collect any trapped water, then unscrew the p l u g by h a n d . Use a length o l h o o k e d wire t o probe

the branch pipe. If you locate a blockage that seems very firmly lodged, rent a drain auger from a tool-hire company to clear the pipework. If there's no access p l u g , remove the trap and probe the waste pipe w i t h an auget. If the pipe is constructed with push-fit joints, you can dismantle it.

Unscrew the access cap on a bottle trap Usee ptungettoforce out a blockage Using a pump Block the sink overflow with a wet cloth. Fill the pump wifh water irom the tap, then hold its nozzle over the nutlet, pressing down firmly. Pump up and down until the obstruction is cleared.

USING A PUMP TO CLEAR A BLOCKAGE

t :

If a plunger is ineffective in clearing a blocked waste outlet, use a simple h a n d operated hydraulic p u m p . A d o w n w a r d stroke o n the t o o l forces a powerful jet of water a l o n g the pipe to disperse the blockage. If the blockage is lodged firmly, an u p w a r d stroke crearcs enough suction t o pull it free.

• • J

Bottle trap This type of ttapcan be cleared easily because the whole base ol the trap unscrews by hand.

#

• " a

Use hooked wire to probe a branch pipe

16

Tubular trap If the access cap to the cleaning eye is stiff, use: wrench to remove rt.

SEE ALSO: Frozen pipes 9, Plungers 16, 74, Drain auger 17,

Blocked stacks or gullies If several fittings are d r a i n i n g p o o r l y , the v e r t i c a l stack is p r o b a b l y obstructed. In a u t u m n , the h o p p e r , d o w n p i p e a n d y a r d g u l l y m a y be blocked w i t h leaves. T h e b l o c k a g e m a y n o t be o b v i o u s w h e n y o u

UNBLOCKING A WC

DRAIN/ JAG I MAI NT ENA*NCI NCI

If the w ater in a W C pan rises w h e n y o u flush it, there's a blockage in the v i c i n i t y o f the trap. A p a r t i a l blockage allows the water level t o fall slowly.

empty a b a s i n , b u t the c o n t e n t s o f a h a t h w i l l a l m o s t c e r t a i n l y cause an overflow. C l e a r t h e b l o c k a g e u r g e n t l y t o a v o i d p e n e t r a t i n g d a m p .

Cleaning out the hopper and drainpipe Wearing protective gloves, scoop o u t the debris from the hopper, then gently probe the d r a i n p i p e w i t h a cane t o check d i a t it is free. C l e a r the b o t t o m end o f the pipe w ith a piece o f bent wire. If an o l d east-iroil waste pipe has been replaced w i t h a m o d e m plastic

pipe, yon may find there are c l e a n i n g eyes o r access plugs at strategic points for c l e a r i n g a blockage. W h i l e you're o n the ladder, scrub the inside o f the hopper and disinfect ir to prevent stale o d o u r s entering a nearby bathroom.

Unblocking a yard gully

H i r e a larger version o f the sink plunger to force the obstruction into the soil pipe. Position the rubber cup of the plunger well d o w n into the U-bend, and p u m p the handle. W h e n the blockage clears, the water level w i l l drop suddenly, accompanied by an audible gurgling. If the trap is blocked solidly, hire a special W C auger. Pass the flexible clearing r o d as far as possible into the trap, then crank the handle t o dislodge the blockage. Wash the auger in hot water and disinfect ir, before returning it to the hire company.

Unless you decide to hire an auger, you have little option but t o clear a blocked gully by h a n d , i lowever, by the time it overflows the water i n the gully w i l l bequite deep, so try b a i l i n g some o f it out w i t h a small disposable container. Wearing rubber gloves, scoop out the debris from the trap until the r e m a i n i n g water disperses. Rinse the gully w i t h a hose a n d cleanse it w i t h disinfectant. S c r u b the grid as clean as possible, o r b u r n off accumulated grime from a metal grid with a gas torch. If a flooded gully appears t o be clear and yet the water w i l l not d r a i n away, try to locate the blockage at the nearest inspection chamber.

Clearing a blockage Use a Cooper's plunger (left) to pomp a blocked WC Alternatively, clear it with e special WC auger (below left).

Bail out the water, then clear a gully by hand

Unblocking a soil pipe Unblocking a soil pipe is an unpleasant job and it's w o r t h hiring a professional cleaning company - especially if rhe pipe is made of cast i r o n , as it w i l l almost certainly have t o lie cleared via the vent above the roof. You can clean a modern plastic stack yourself, since there s h o u l d be a large hinged cleaning eye, o r other access plugs, wherever branch pipes join the stack. If the stack is inside the house, lay polythene sheets o n the floor and be prepared to m o p up trapped sewage when it spills from the pipe.

auger i n t o the stack until you locate the o b s t r u c t i o n , then crank the handle to engage it. Push o r pull the auger until you c a n dislodge the o b s t r u c t i o n to clear the trapped water, then hose out the stack. Wash a n d disinfect the s u r r o u n d i n g area.

Unscrew and open rhe cleaning eyeto insert a hired d r a i n auger. Pass the

Use a hired auger to eleata soil stack

SEE ALSO: Inspection chambers 15, Gas torch 21,77, Drain auger 74, WC auger 74

• Clearing a blockage with a hydraulic pump Shift a really stubborn blockage with a hired pump, similar to the one used for clearing a blocked sink (see opposite I

DRAINAGE MAINTENANCE

Rodding the drains T h e first s i g n o f a b l o c k e d d r a i n c o u l d be a n u n p l e a s a n t s m e l l f r o m an inspection chamber, b u t a severe b l o c k a g e m a y c a u s e sewage to overflow f r o m a gully o r f r o m b e n e a t h the c o v e r o f an inspection chamber. Before you resort to professional services, hire a set o f d r a i n r o d s — s h o r t flexible

rods made o f plastic o r

w i r e , screwed e n d t o end - to c l e a r the b l o c k a g e .

Locating the blockage Lift the cover from the inspection c h a m b e r nearest to the house. If it's stuck o r the handles have rusted away, scrape the dirt from a r o u n d its edges and prise it up w i t h a garden spade.

Rodding the drainpipe

Clearing interceptor traps

Screw two o r three rods together and attach a corkscrew fitting to the end. Insert the rods into the d r a i n at the b o t t o m o f the inspection chamber, in the d i r e c t i o n o f the suspected blockage. If the c h a m b e r is full o f water, use the cud o f a rod to locate the open channel r u n n i n g across the floor, leading t o the m o u t h o f the d r a i n .

Screw a rubber plunger to the end of a s h o r t length o f rods and locate the channel that leads to the base of the trap. Push the plunger into the opening of the trap, then p u m p the rods a few times to expel the blockage. (This is also a useful technique for clearing blocked yard gullies,)

A s y o u pass the rods a l o n g the pipe, attach further lengths till you reach the o b s t r u c t i o n , then twist the rods clockwise to engage the screw. (Never twist the rods a n t i c l o c k w i s e , o r they w i l l become detached.) P u l l and push the o b s t r u c t i o n until it breaks up, a l l o w i n g the water ro flow away. E x t r a c t the rods, flush the c h a m b e r w i t h clean water from a hose, and rhen replace the l i d .

—:f

• If the c h a m b e r contains water, check the one nearer the road o r boundary. If that c h a m b e r is dry, the blockage is between the two chambers. Rodding paints A modern drainage system is often fitted with tod ding points to provide access to the drain. They are sealed with small oval or circular covers.

• If the chamber nearest the road is full, the blockage w ill be in the interceptor trap o r in the pipe beyond, leading to the sewer. • If both chambers are dry and yet either a y a r d gully or d o w n s t a i r s W C w i l l not empty, check for blockages in the branch drains that run t o the first inspection chamber.

Houses built in the c o u n t r y o r o n the outskirts o f a t o w n are nor always connected to a p u b l i c sewer. Instead, waste is drained i n t o a cesspool o r septic tank,

M o s t cesspools are c y l i n d r i c a l pits lined w i t h brick o r concrete. M o d e r n ones are sometimes prefabricated in glass-reinforced plastic. Access is via a m a n h o l e cover.

W

'

To rod an Interceptor trap, fit a rubber plonger

Cesspools and septic tanks

Cesspools T h e B u i l d i n g Regulations stipulate that cesspools must have a m i n i m u m capacity o f IScu m (4000 gallons), but many existing cesspools a c c o m m o d a t e far less and require e m p t y i n g perhaps once every t w o weeks. Before b u y i n g a c o u n t r y h o m e w i t h a cesspool, it is w o r t h c h e c k i n g that it w i l l cope w i t h your needs. Water aurhoritics estimate the disposal o f approximately 115 litres (25 gallons) per person per day.

A septic tank 1 Inspection chamber 2 Dip-pipe 3 Manhole cover 4 Baffle 5 Filter chamber K Outlet

18

Use a corkscrew fitting to clear a dtain

A cesspool simply acts as a collection point for sewage until it can be p u m p e d out by the local council - whereas a septic tank is a complete waste-disposal system, in which sewage is broken d o w n by bacterial action before the water is finally discharged into a local waterway or distributed u n d e r g r o u n d .

A typical cesspool 11nspection chamber 2 Dip-pipe 3 Manhole cover 1 Ventilator S Sludge

If the water level does not drop aftet several attempts, try clearing the drain leading to the sewer. Access to this drain is through a cleaning eye above the trap. It w i l l be sealed w i t h a stopper, which you w i l l have to dislodge w i t h a drain rod, unless it is attached to a chain stapled to the chamber w a l l . D o n ' t let the stopper fall into the channel and block the trap. R o d the drain to the sewer, then hose out the chamber before replacing the stopper and cover.

SEE ALSO: Inspection chambers IS, Drain rods 74

Septic tanks T h e sewage in a septic tank separates slowly: heavy sludge falls to the bottom to leave relatively clear water, w i t h a layer o f scum floating o n the surface. A dip-pipe discharges waste below the surface, so that i n c o m i n g water does not stir up the sewage. Bacterial action takes a m i n i m u m o f 24 hours, so the tank is divided into chambers by baffles to slow d o w n the movement o f sewage through the tank. T h e partly treated waste passes out of the tank, through another dip-pipe, i n t o some form o f filtration system that allows further bacterial action to take place. T h i s may consist o f another chamber, c o n t a i n i n g a deep filter bed; or the waste may flow underground through a n e t w o r k of drains, which disperses the water over a wide area to filter t h r o u g h rhc soil.

Metal pipes The a b i l i t y t o i n s t a l l a r u n o f pipework, make watertight joints a n d c o n n e c t u p t o f i t t i n g s constitutes the b a s i s o f m o s t p l u m b i n g . W i t h o u t these s k i l l s , a. h o u s e h o l d e r is r e s t r i c t e d t o simple m a i n t e n a n c e . M o d e r n materials a n d t e c h n o l o g y have made i t p o s s i b l e f o r a n y b o d y who is p r e p a r e d t o m a s t e r a few t e c h n i q u e s t o u p g r a d e a n d extend p l u m b i n g w i t h o u t having t o h i r e a p r o f e s s i o n a l .

Metric and imperial pipes Copper and stainless-steel pipes are now made in metric sizes, whereas pipework already installed in older house w i l l have been made ro i m p e r i a l measurements. If you compare the equivalent dimensions (15mm - I4in, 22mm - -Jdin, 2 8 m m - l i n ) , the difference seems obvious, but metric pipe is measured externally while i m p e r i a l pipe is measured internally ! n fact, the difference is very s m a l l - but enough to cause some problems when j o i n i n g one type o f pipe t o the other. When m a k i n g soldered joints, an exact fit is essential. Imperial to metric adaptors are necessary when joining 22mm pipe to its imperial equivalent; and, although not essential, adaptors are convenient when you are w o r k i n g with 28mm pipes or w i t h thick-walled Vim pipes. A d a p t o r s are not required when using compression fittings, but when you are connecting 2 2 m m t o 3iin plumbing slip an imperial olive onto the K i n pipe.

Metal supply pipes O v e r the years, most household p l u m b i n g systems w i l l have undergone some form of improvement o r alteration. A s a result, you may find any o f a number o f metals used, perhaps in c o m b i n a t i o n , depending o n the availability o f materials at the time of installation o r the preference o f an i n d i v i d u a l plumber.

Copper H a l f - h a r d - t e m p e r e d copper t u b i n g is by far the most w i d e l y used material l o r p i p e w o r k . T h i s is because tr's lightweight, solders w e l l , and can be bent easily (even by h a n d , w i t h the aid o f a b e n d i n g spring). It is employed for

b o t h hot-water and cold-water pipes, as well as for central-heating systems. T h e r e arc three sizes o f pipe that are invariably used for general d o m e s t i c p l u m b i n g : I 5 m m ( t i i n ) , 2 2 m m (?Sil}, and 2 8 m m ( l i n ) .

• Cast-iron waste pipes All old soil pipes are OfOde from cast iron, which is prone to rusting. I lit weren't for their relatively thick walls, pipes of this kind would have rusted away long ago.

Stainless steel Stainless-steel t u b i n g is not its c o m m o n as copper, but is available in the same sizes. You may have to order it f r o m a plumbers' merchant. It's harder rhan copper, so cannot be bent as easily, and is difficult to solder. It pays t o use c o m -

pression joints ro connect stainless-steel pipes, but tighten them slightly more t h a n y o u w o u l d when j o i n i n g copper. Stainless steel does not react w i t h galvanized steel (iron) - see ELECTROCHEMICAL ACTION (bottom left).

Lead L e a d is never used for any f o r m o f new p l u m b i n g but there are thousands of houses that still have a lead r i s i n g m a i n connected t o a m o d e r n i z e d system. Lead p l u m b i n g that's still in use must be ueariug the end of its life, so replace it

as soon as an o p p o r t u n i t y arises. When d r i n k i n g water lies in a lead pipe for some time, it absorbs toxins from the metal, i f you have a lead pipe s u p p l y i n g your d r i n k i n g water, always run off a little water before you use any.

Plastic waste pipes Should you need to replece a cast-iron pipe, ask for one of the plastic alternatives.

Galvanized steel (iron) G a l v a n i z e d steel was once c o m m o n l y used for s u p p l y pipes, both below and above g r o u n d , h a v i n g raken over from lead. It was then superseded by copper. There are two p r o b l e m s w i t h this type o f pipe. It rusts f r o m the inside

a n d resists water flow as it deteriorates. A l s o , when it is joined t o copper, the g a l v a n i z i n g breaks d o w n rapidly because o f an electrolytic action between the copper and zinc c o a t i n g (see b o t t o m left).

Typically, 15mm ffiah) pipe is used tor the supply to basins, kitchen sinks washing machines, some showers, and radiator flow and returns. However, 22mm (Mm) pipes are used to supply baths, hlgh-OBtpUt showers, hot-water cylinders and m a i n central-heating circuits; and 2 8 m m ( l i n ) pipe for larger heating installations.

Electrochemical action Joining pipes made from different metals can accelerate corrosion as a result of electrolytic action. If you live in a soft-water area, where this problem tends to be pronounced, use plastic pipe and connectors when you're joining to o!u pipework - but make sine that the metal pipes are still bonded t o earth, as required by the W i r i n g Regulations.

Copper pipes The economic choice for modern, plumbing systems

Stainless steel Due lo its superior appearance and strength, stainless steel rs sometimes used where pipe runs are exposed. It does not cause electrolytic action with galvanisedsteel pipes.

SEE ALSO: Soldered joints 21, Bending springs 23, Push-fit joints 25-G, Plastic waste pipes 26, Soft water 48, Main switch equipment 68, Supplementary bonding G9-70

lead This is still foond in older houses. It can introduce toxins into the drinking-water supply, so should be teplaced.

Iron Iron pipes are used for mains watct supply in some older systems. Iron is susceptible to furring-up and decay, which can result in low water pressure and leaks. Cast iron Is used iorwaste pipes in older buildings.

19

Metal joints and fittings Straight connectors To join two pipes end to end in a straight line. 1 For pipes of equal diameter - compression joint 2 Reducer to conned a 22mm (Kin) pips toa 15mm |Hlft| pipe - capillary joint.

Joints arc made to connect p i p e s at different angles a n d i n various combinations. There arc adaptors for j o i n i n g metric a n d imperial pipes, a n d for connecting one kind of material to another. Y o u need t o consult

Bends or elbows To join two pipes ai an angle. 3 Elbow 90*compression ioint

manufacturers' catalogues to see every v a r i a t i o n , b u t t h e examples o n this page illustrate

Tees (T-joints) To join three pipes. 4 Equal tee, for joining three pipes of the same diameter - capillary joint 5 Un ego a I tee. fot reducing size of pipe run when connecting a branch pipe - compression joint

a t y p i c a l range o f j o i n t s . P l u m b i n g fittings s u c h as valves are m a d e w i t h d e m o u n t able c o m p r e s s i o n j o i n t s , s o t h a t they c a n b e r e m o v e d e a s i l y f o r servicing or replacement.

Corrosion resistance Corrosion can take place between brass fittings and copper pipes. Look for Ihe symbol that denotes corrosion-resistant brass fittings.

Adaptors To join dissimilar pipes I Straight coupling for joining 22mm and KM pipes - compression joint I Connector for joining copper to galvanized steel - compression joinl for copper, threaded lemele couplingtoi Steel.

Pipe joints It w o u l d he impossible t o make strong, watertight joints by simply soldering two lengths o f copper pipe end to end. Instead, plumbers use c a p i l l a r y or compression joints.

Soldering capillary joints Solder is introduced to each mouth of the assembled end-feed joint Ifar right) and flows by capillary action into the fitting. The rings pressed into the sleeves of an integral-ring fitting (right) contain the exact amount of solder to make perfect joints

5 Unequal tee ?

;

I.I.I.. JtlJ

Capillary joints Capillary joints are made to fit snugly over Ihe ends of a pipe.Theverysmallspace between the pipe and joint sleeve is filled with molten solder. When it solidifies on cooling, the solder holds the joint together and makes it watertight. Capillary joints are neat and inexpensive - but because you need to host the metal with a gas torch, there is a slight risk of fire when working in confined spaces under floors CUT PIPE SQUARE PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY

CAP-NUT

S End cap

9 Tap connector

IS Straight service valve

OLIVE

OLIVE

Compression joints Compression joints are very easy to use, but are more expensive then capillary joints. They are also mote obtrusive, and you will find it impossible to manoeuvre a wrench where space is restricted. The end ot each pipe is cut square before the joint is assembled. When ihe cap-nut is tightened with a wrench it compresses a ring of soft metal, known as an olive, to fill the joint between fitting and pipe.

15 Double-check non-return valve

11 Bib-tap wall plate

Fittings Identical jointing systems are used to connect filings. 8 End cap. to seal pipes - compression joint 9 Tap connector, with threaded nut for connecting supply pipe to tap - capillary joint 10 Tank connector, joins pipes to cisterns - compression joint II Bib-tap wall plate, for fixing tap on outside wall - compression join! far supply pipe, threaped female connector for tap 12 Bib tap has threaded tail to fit wall plate. 13 Gate valve to fit in straight pipe run - compression joint. 14 Draincock for emptying a pipe run - compression joint. 15 Straight service valve for isolating a lap or float valve •• compression joint. IE Double-check non-return valve, used for outside taps and other outlets where contamination of water supply is possible - compression joint.

CUTTING METAL PIPE Calculate the length o f pipe you need, allowing enough to fit i n t o the sleeve of the joint at each end. Whatever type of joint y o u use, it's essential to cut the end o f every length o f pipe square.

Making soldered joints S o l d e r i n g p i p e joints is easy o n c e y o u have h a d a little practice. T h e fittings are c h e a p , s o y o u c a n afford t o try o u t the t e c h n i q u e s before y o u b e g i n t o install p i p e w o r k . Y o u need a gas t o r c h t o a p p l y heat, s o m e flux t o c l e a n the m e t a l , a n d s o l d e r t o m a k e the j o i n t . M a k e sure the p i p e is perfectly d r y before y o u a t t e m p t t o solder a joint.

A setecti on of tube cutters and hacksaws

To ensure a perfectly square cut each time, use a tube cutter. A l i g n the cutting wheel w i t h yout m a r k , and adjust the handle o f the tool to c l a m p the tollers against the pipe (1)- Rotate the t o o l around the pipe, adjusting the handle after each revolution 10 make the cutter bite deeper into the metal. A tube cutter makes a clean cut o n the outside o f the pipe, but use the pointed reamer o n the t o o l t o clean the burr from inside the cut end (2). If you use a hacksaw, make sure the cut is square by w r a p p i n g a piece of paper w i t h a straight edge a r o u n d the pipe. A l i g n the wrapped edge a n d use it to guide the saw blade |3). Remove the burr, inside and out, w i t h a file.

1 clamp the tube cutter onto the pipe

3 Wrap paper around the pipe to guide a saw

Gas torches

Solder and flux

To heat the metal sufficiently for a soldered joint, most plumbers use a gas torch. G a s , liquefied under pressure, is contained in a disposable metal canister. When the control valve o f the torch is opened, gas is vaporized to combine with air, m a k i n g a highly combustible mixture. O n c e ignited, the flame is adjusted until it burns steadily w i t h a clear blue colour.

Solder is a soft alloy manufactured w i t h a m e l t i n g p o i n t lower than that of the metal it is j o i n i n g . P l u m b e r s ' solder is sold as w o u n d wire.

M a n y professional plumbers use a propane torch, which is connected by a hose to a metal gas bottle. T h e average householder doesn't need such expensive equipment, but if you happen to own a propane torch, perhaps for car repairs, you can use the same tool for soldering p l u m b i n g joints.

C o p p e r must be spotlessly clean and grease-free if it is to produce a properly soldered joint. Even when you have cleaned it mechanically w i t h wire w o o l , copper begins to oxidize immediately; a chemical cleaner k n o w n as flux is therefore painted onto the metal to provide a barrier against o x i d a t i o n until the solder is applied. A non-corrosive flux in the form of a paste is the best one to use. O n stainless-steel pipework use a highly efficient active flux - but wash it off w i t h w a r m water after the joint is made, or the metal w i l l corrode.

Using integral-ring joints

Using end-feed joints

C l e a n the ends o f each pipe and the inside of the joint sleeves w i t h wire wool or abrasive paper until the metal is shiny. Rrush flux onto the cleaned metal and push the pipes into the joint, twisting them to spread the flux evenly. Push each pipe up against the stop in the joint.

H a v i n g cleaned and assembled an endfeed joint, heat the area o f the joint evenly. W h e n the flux begins to bubble remove the flame and touch the solder wire to two o r three points a r o u n d the m o u t h o f each sleeve - the joint is full of solder when a bright ring appears a r o u n d each sleeve. A l l o w it to c o o l .

If you are using elbows or tees, mark the pipe and joint w i t h a pencil, to make sure they d o not get misaligned d u r i n g the soldering.

PIPEWORK METAL

o Joining stai ill ess-steel pipes The techniques lor joining copper and stainless-steel are Similar- but because the sleel is harder, you will find that it's easier to cut it with a hacksaw. Use an active flu>when soldering stainless steel Isee left).

Gas torches A gas torch is used for heating soldered joints. A simple torch (above) is available from any DIY outlet. The propane torch [below] is used by professional plumbers.

Slip a ceramic tile o r a plumber's fibreglass mat behind the joint t o protect flammable materials, then apply the flame o f a gas torch to the area o f the joint t o heat it evenly W h e n a bright ring o f solder appears at each end of the joint, remove the flame and allow the metal t o c o o l for a couple o f minutes before d i s t u r b i n g it. Repairing a weeping joint W h e n you fill a new installation w i t h water for the first time, check every joint to make sure it's watertight. If you notice water 'weeping' f r o m a soldered joint, d r a i n the pipe and allow it t o dry. Heat the joint and apply some fresh solder t o the edge o f each m o u t h . If it leaks a second time, heat the joint until you can p u l l it apart w i t h gloved hands. Either use a new joint o r clean and flux all surfaces and reuse the same joint, adding solder as if you were w o r k i n g with an end-feed fitting (see right}.

* * SEE ALSO: Pipe fittings 19, 24, 26, Plumbing tools 74-9

Heat the joint to melt the captive solder • Lead-free solder Use lead-free solder when joining pipes that will supply d tin king water.

Introduce solder to a heated end-feed joint

21

PIPEWORK METAL

Compression joints

STEEL-TO-PLASTIC CONNECTIONS

U s i n g c o m p r e s s i o n f i t t i n g s is s o s t r a i g h t f o r w a r d that y o u w i l l b e

Calvani/cd-steel pipe is connected by threaded joints, so if you plan to extend o l d p i p e w o r k using the same material you w i l l need a pipe die to cut the threads o n the end of each length o f new pipe.

able t o m a k e w a t e r t i g h t j o i n t s w i t h o u t a n y p r e v i o u s e x p e r i e n c e .

Assembling a joint C u t the ends o f each pipe square and clean t h e m , a l o n g w i t h the olives, using w i r e w o o l . D i s m a n t l e a new joint and slip a eap-nut over the end o f one pipe, followed by a n olive (1). L o o k carefully to see if the s l o p i n g sides o f the olive ate equal in length. If one is longer than the other, that side s h o u l d face away from the nut.

the right a m o u n t to ensure a watertight joint. A s a guide, make a pencil mark o n one face o f the nut and o n the o p p o s i n g face o n the joint body (3); then, h o l d i n g the joint body steady w i t h a spanner, use another spanner to turn the nut one complete revolution (4). Assemble the other half of the joint in exactly the same manner.

Push the pipe firmly into the joint body (2). t w i s t i n g it slightly t o ensure it is firmly against the integral stop. Slide the olive u p against the joint body, then tighten the nut by h a n d .

Some plumbers like t o wrap a single turn o f P T F E tape over the olive before tightening the nut, t o make absolutely sure the joinr is watertight. However, a properly tightened compression joint should be watertight w i t h o u t it.

T h e olive must be compressed by just

Y o u can hire a pipe die, but a simpler s o l u t i o n is t o continue the run in plastic, using a n adaptor t o connect one system t o another. O n e end of the adaptor has a push-fit sleeve for the plastic pipework; the other end has a male o r female threaded connector for the galvanized steel.

Fitting an adaptor Use t w o Stillson wrenches to unscrew the joint o n the o l d pipework where you intend to connect up to plastic. Grip the joint w i t h one wrench and the pipe w i t h the other, pushing and pulling in the direction the jaws face (1), If the joint is stiff, use penetrating o i l or play the flame o f a gas torch along it. Threaded connections leak unless they're made watertight w i t h plumbers' P T E E tape. W r a p the tape clockwise two o r three times around the pipe to cover the threads (2), then engage and tighten the adaptor.

Slraighl connector Compression joint to join two pipes ot equal diameter, end to end, in a straight line. 1 Slip an olive onto the pipe after the cap-nul

2 Clamp the joint to the pipe with the nut

3 Mark the nut and ioim with a pencil

4 Tighten the joint with two spanners

Elbow joint A90-degree elbow compression joint connects two pipes at an angle

Repairing a weeping joint H a v i n g filled the pipe w i t h water, check each joint for leaks. M a k e one further quarter t u r n o n any nut that appears t o be weeping. Notching floor joists When running pipes under floorboards, notch eachioist to receive the pipe. Cut the notch to align with the centre of a floorboard end drive a nail on each side when replacing the board.

C r u s h i n g an olive by overtightening a compression joint w i l l cause it t o leak. D r a i n the pipe and d i s m a n t l e the joint. C u t t h r o u g h the d a m a g e d olive w i t h a j u n i o r hacksaw, t a k i n g care not to damage the pipe. Remake the joint w i t h a new olive, restore the s u p p l y of water, and check for leaks once more.

? Wrap plenty of PTFE tape over the threads Saw through a damaged olive

SEE ALSO: Metal joints and fittings 20, Adaptors 20, Wrenches 78

Bending pipes

COPPER-TO-LEAD CONNECTIONS When replacing a i d lead p l u m b i n g w i t h copper, plumbers used t o make the COBDGCfion to the lead rising main w i t h solder and a b l o w l a m p . It is illegal to make such joints nowadays - and it is also much simpler to use a special leadto-copper compression joint. There are joints for c o n n e c t i n g lead pipes to 15 and 2 2 m m [Vi and Nin) copper pipes. Y o u can use s i m i l a r joints for plastic p l u m b i n g , provided you reinforce the plastic pipe w i t h metal inserts. A l t h o u g h the connector* arc specified a c c o r d i n g to the bore of lead p i p e w o r k , measure the outside diameter o f your r i s i n g m a i n and ask a p l u m b e r s ' merchant to provide a sttirablc compression joint.

Making the connection Select a straight length o f lead pipe that is as round as possible. It must also be in good condition, as the O - r i n g inside the fitting won't make a watertight seal if the lead is dented o r scored. Turn off the water supply. Have a bucket ready to catch the water, then cut the lead pipe w i t h a hacksaw. C h a m f e r the outside edge of the pipe, and remove the burr from the inside. Dismantle the compression joint and check that the large thrust nut makes a good sliding fit on the lead pipe. You can scrape back a slightly oversize pipe to fit, keeping it as round as possible. Slide the thrust nut onto the pipe, then the two metal rings and the rubber O - n n g ( l ) . Slide the threaded c o u p l i n g body onto the end of the pipe and push it against the internal end stop. T i g h t e n the coupling (2) until you feel resistance, but don't use excessive force. The other end of the coupling body carries a conventional compression joint for the copper pipe. LOCKING RING

METAL

Y o u c a n c h a n g e the d i r e c t i o n o f a p i p e r u n by u s i n g a n e l b o w j o i n t , but there are o c c a s i o n s w h e n b e n d i n g the p i p e itself w i l l p r o d u c e a neater o r m o r e a c c u r a t e result. If y o u w a n t t o c a r r y a p i p e over a s m a l l o b s t r u c t i o n (another p i p e , for e x a m p l e ) , a slight k i n k i n the p i p e w i l l be less o f an o b s t r u c t i o n t o the f l o w o f w a t e r a n d w i l l therefore create less noise t h a n t w o e l b o w s w i t h i n a few centimetres o f each other. It is a l s o cheaper. P e r h a p s y o u w a n t t o r u n p i p e s i n t o a w i n d o w a l c o v e w h e r e the w a l l s m e e t a t a n u n u s u a l angle? B e n d i n g the p i p e s a c c u r a t e l y w i l l a l l o w y o u t o fit the p i p e s n e a t l y a g a i n s t the a l c o v e w a l l s .

T H R U S T NUT

OLIVE

• Annealing pipe When you are working with large-diameter capper pipe, play the llame of a gaslotch around the area of the intended bend until the metal is cherry red, then allow it to cool. The pipe will bend with minimal effort, using a bending spring

Using a bending spring A b e n d i n g s p r i n g is the cheapest and easiest tool for m a k i n g bends in small pipe runs. It is a hardened-steel c o i l spring that supports the walls o f c o p p e r tube t o stop it k i n k i n g . M o s t b e n d i n g springs arc made t o fit inside the pipe, but some slide over it.

Plumbers' bending springs

Slide the s p r i n g into the tube, SO it s u p p o r t s the area you want to bend. H o l d the tube against your padded knee and bend it to the required angle. T h e bent tube w i l l grip the s p r i n g , but s l i p p i n g a screwdriver i n t o the r i n g at one end a n d t u r n i n g it a n t i c l o c k w i s e w i l l reduce the diameter o f the s p r i n g so that y o u can p u l l it o u t .

Using the spring Bend the pipe against your padded knee. If you anneal the pipe pipe, (see above I be sore to allow it to cool befote bending it.

If you make a bend some distance f r o m the end o f a tube, you won't be able to w i t h d r a w the b e n d i n g s p r i n g in the n o r m a l way. E i t h e r use an external spring o r tie a length o f t w i n e to the ring a n d lightly grease the s p r i n g w i t h petroleum jelly before y o u insert it. Slightly ovcrbend the tube and open it out t o the correct angle t o release the s p r i n g , then p u l l it out w i t h the twine.

Using a pipe bender A l t h o u g h you c a n hire b e n d i n g springs to fit the larger pipes, it isn't easy t o bend 22 o r 2 8 m m (H o r l i n ) tube over your knee - so it is well w o r t h h i r i n g a pipe bendef to do the job.

FRICTION RING

COUPLING BODY Copper-lo-lead compression joint

PIPEWOF

H o l d the pipe against the radiused former and insert the straight former to s u p p o r t it. Pull the levers towards each other to make the b e n d , and then open up the bender ro remove the pipe.

ÍÍADI..1S!:Ü FORMER

Supporting pipe runs Place a plastic or metal clip at lm(3ft) intervals along a horizontal tun of 15mm ISiin) pipe. Increase the spacing to every l.5m (4ft Gin] on a vertical run, In the case of larger pipes, increase the spacing a little more.

Use a pipe bender for larger tubing

Getting the bends in the right place 1 Fit tun and rings

2 Tighten the coupling

Ir is difficult to p o s i t i o n t w o o r m o r e bends accurately a l o n g a single length of pipe. If you want to fit an alcove, for e x a m p l e , it's easier t o bend i n d i v i d u a l lengths o f pipe t o fit each corner, then cut the tubes where they overlap and insert joints.

•F" SEE ALSO: Connecting plastic to metal plumbing 25, External spring 76, Tube bender 76

PLASTIC

METAL

Bend separate lengths of pipe to fit an alcove CUT HERE

'IPEWORK 'LÄSTIG

Plastic plumbing P l a s t i c p l u m b i n g is l i g h t w e i g h t a n d e x t r e m e l y s i m p l e t o a s s e m b l e , ft d o e s n ' t b u r s t w h e n f r o z e n , c o r r o d e , o r a d v e r s e l y affect o t h e r m a t e r i a l s ; a n d , d e p e n d i n g o n the type o f p l a s t i c , it c a n b e used b o t h for cold water and hot, i n c l u d i n g central-heating p i p e w o r k .

Plastic supply pipes are made to the same standard sizes as metal pipework, but there may be a slight variation i n w a l l thickness from one manufacturer's stock to another.

M o s t p l a s t i c s y s t e m s c a n be c o n n e c t e d t o e x i s t i n g m e t a l p i p e s . P l a s t i c j o i n t s a n d fittings are s i m i l a r t o the ones used f o r m e t a l p l u m b i n g , b u t are t y p i c a l l y l a r g e r i n size. J o i n t s a n d p i p e s are f o r the m o s t p a r t m a n u f a c t u r e d f r o m t h e s a m e m a t e r i a l , b u t there are several s p e c i a l i z e d c o n n e c t o r s a v a i l a b l e f o r j o i n i n g p l a s t i c p l u m b i n g t o taps, t a n k s a n d e x i s t i n g m e t a l p l u m b i n g . T o sec the h u g e v a r i e t y o f p l a s t i c joints, y o u need to browse t h r o u g h m a n u f a c t u r e r s ' catalogues, but the s e l e c t i o n b e l o w s h o w s the m a i n c a t e g o r i e s o f j o i n t a n d e x a m p l e s o f the different types o f c o u p l i n g . Straight connectors For joining two pipes end to end. 1 For pipes of equal diameter- push- fit

Tees For joining three pipes. 5 Unequal tee for joining 15mm (Kin) btanoh pipe to main pipe run - push-fît

!

Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (cPVC)

mijii

Elbows For joining two pipes at an angle. 2 El bow 45°

A versatile plastic suitable for hot and c o l d supply. It c a n even withstand the temperatures that are required for central-hearing systems.

- solvent weld.

Polybutylene (P8)

3 Elbow 90' - push-tit

A tough, flexible plastic pipe used for hor and c o l d supply, and central heating. Available i n standard lengths or c o n t i n u o u s coils, PB resists bursting when frozen. It w i l l sag i f unsupported.

Adaptors To join dissimilar pipes. 4 Plastic-to-cop per connector - push-fit and compression joint

Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX)

Fittings Manufacturers supply pipe connectors and valves that can be attached to plastic pipes.

6 Tap connectot with threaded nut for connecting supply pipe to tail of tappush-ft

7 Tank connector joins pipes to storage tanks and cisterns push-fit

SStopcock-push-rS

Bending plastic pipes • Oxygen-diffusion barriers There's some concern that a small amount of oxygen drawn through the walls of plastic central-heating pipes contributes to the corrosion of the system. To prevent this happening, an oxygendiffusion barrier is built into fhe walls of 1 he pipe.

Medium-density polyethylene (MDPE)

Flexible pipes can be bent cold to a m i n i m u m radius o f eight times the pipe diameter. Use a pipe clip at each side of the bend to h o l d the curve, o r use a special corner clamp. It is easy to thread flexible pipe around obstacles o r r u n it under floorboards. It's possible to bend a rigid plastic pipe by heating it gently. Pass the flame of a gas torch over the area that y o u want to bend. Keep the flame m o v i n g and revolve the pipe. W h e n the pipe is soft e n o u g h , bend it by h a n d o n a flat surface. H o l d it still till the plastic hardens again. Wear thick leather gloves when h a n d l i n g hot plasrie.

it*- SEE ALSO:

Although it expands considerably when it is heated, P E X is used to make pipes that supply hot and cold water and for underfloor heating systems. However, it rends to sag, so is unsuitable for surface running. A P E X pipe resists bursting when subjected to frost. Twin-wall P E X , w i t h an oxygen-diffusion barrier in the form o f an a l u m i n i u m layer sandwiched between the walls, is semi-rigid.

T h i s plastic is widely used for underg r o u n d domestic supply pipes. T h e pipes, n o r m a l l y c o l o u r e d blue, can be laid i n c o n t i n u o u s lengths and are resistant to pressure and corrosion.

cPVC MDPE Hook flexible pipe into a metal corner clamp

Push-lit joints 2 5 - 6 , Solvent-weld joints

26

METAL Joining plastic supply pipes !TOCONNECTING PLASTIC PLUMBING Some p l a s t i c s u p p l y p i p e s c a n b e c o n n e c t e d u s i n g s o l v e n t - w e l d joints (as d e s c r i b e d f o r w a s t e s y s t e m s ) , b u t i t is easier a n d m o r e convenient t o use the p u s h - f i t c o n n e c t o r s s h o w n b e l o w .

Push-fit joints When the pipe is inserted, an O - r i n g seals in the water in the n o r m a l way and (depending on the model) a special plastic grab ring, o r a collet w i t h stainless-steel teeth, grips the tube securely to prevent water under mains pressure forcing the joint apart. J o i n t s fitted w i t h collets can be disconnected easily, but to d i s m a n t l e the l

other type o f push-fit joint, it's necessary t o remove the retaining Lap and prise open the grab r i n g , using a special t o o l .

Special adaptor couplings ate needed in order t o connect most types o f plasticpipe to copper or galvanized-steel p l u m b i n g . To join polyburylcne pipe t o copper, insert a metal support sleeve, then use a standard brass compression joint; o r use a push-fit connector to join copper pipes to a polybutyleue run. Cut and deburr the copper pipe carefully before p u s h i n g it into the joint. #

Grab-ring push-fit joint A grab ring holds the pips, to resist water underpressure.

CAP-NUT

PLASTIC PIPE Joining plastic pipe with a compression lilting Insert support sleeve before tightening the joint.

Collet-type joints Coltel-lype push-fit joint A different type of joint incorporates a collet that grips the pipe.

Using grab-ring joints ( in p o l y h u t y l t n e pipe to length w i t h the special shears that are s u p p l i e d by the manufacturer (1) - o r alternatively use a s h a r p craft k n i f e . P r o v i d e d that you make the cut reasonably square, the joint w i l l be w a t e r t i g h t . Push a metal s u p p o r t sleeve into the pipe (2). a n d , i f necessary, smear a little

1 Cut pipe to length

0

V

Push-fit joints are more obtrusive than their solvent-welded equivalents - but the speed a n d s i m p l i c i t y w i t h w h i c h you can assemble them more than compensates.

silicone lubricant a r o u n d the end o f the pipe and inside the socket (3). Push the prepared pipe f i r m l y a full 2 5 m m ( l i n ) into the socket (4). A s the joint can revolve freely a r o u n d the pipe after c o n n e c t i o n w i t h o u t b r e a k i n g the seal, there is no p r o b l e m when a l i g n i n g tees and e l b o w s w i t h other pipe runs.

Push-fir joints that i n c o r p o r a t e collets are p a r t i c u l a r l y easy to assemble. C u t the end o f the pipe square, push it intu the socket until it comes up against the internal stop, then p u l l on the pipe to check that the j o i n t is secure. If you need to dismantle a joint, hold the collet in w i t h your fingertips (1) and pull the pipe out o f the socket. J o i n metal pipes the same way, but remove burrs and sharp edges to prevent tearing the O - r i n g . Provide extra grip by slipping a collet clip into the grooved collar (2).

\

• Supporting pipe runs Plastic pipework should be supported with clips or saddles similar to those used for metal pipe, but because it is more flexible you will have lo space Ihe clips closer together Check with ihe manufacturers' literature to establish the exact dimensions. If you plan to surfacerun flexible pipes, consider ducting or boxing-in because it's dilficull to make I really neat installation

2 Insert metal sleeve

Dismantling a joint If you need to dismantle a joint to alter a system, unscrew the cap and p u l l out the pipe. Slide off the rubber O ring, then prise off the grab ring, using a special d e m o u n t i n g t o o l (see fight). Never try to reuse a grab ring. To reassemble the j o i n t , insert the O-ring i n t o the f i t t i n g , followed by the grab r i n g - w i t h its slots f a c i n g outwards. Replace the r e t a i n i n g cap tnd h a n d - i i g h t e n it, ready t o insert he pipe. Push the pipe into the joint, using he technique described above. Never ry to assemble the fitting like a oinpression joint, o r it w i l l b l o w out inder pressure.

Cutting plastic pipe Polybutylene pipe is easy to cut, using special shears.

Prise open the grab ring, using a special tool R e p a i r i n g a weeping joint A push-fit joint o n a s u p p l y pipe may leak i f the pipe is not pushed h o m e fully, o r if the O - r i n g is d a m a g e d .

2 Slip collet clip into grooved collai

PIPEWORK PLASTIC

Plastic waste pipes Plastics are c o m p l e x m a t e r i a l s , each h a v i n g its o w n properties. Consequently, a technique or

WASTE-PIPE JOINTS

Joints and fittings As well as the usual types of joint, waste systems also include easy-flow swept bends and lees for efficient drainage.

m a t e r i a l t h a t is s u i t a b l e f o r j o i n i n g o n e p l a s t i c m a y n o t be suitable for another. To make watertight joints, it's v i t a l t o f o l l o w t h e m a n u facturer's i n s t r u c t i o n s carefully,

Solvent-weld joints Lengths o f pipe arc linked by simple socketed connectors. A s they are assembled, solvent is introduced which dissolves the surfaces of the m a t i n g components. A s the solvent evaporates, the joints and pipes ate literally fused together into one piece of plastic. Solvent-weld joints are sometimes used for supply pipes, but the technique is more c o m m o n l y employed for waste systems.

a n d t o use t h e p a r t i c u l a r solvents a n d l u b r i c a n t s that are recommended. T h e examples o n the right illustrate c o m m o n methods for connecting plastic

Solvent-weld joint Solvent cement fuses the joint and pipe into a solid component

Fittings 1 Bottle trap for sink or basin compression joint

waste pipes a n d joints.

Tees (T-jointsl 2 Swept tee with access plug push fit 3 Branch 48°solvent- weld

Compression joints So that they c a n be d i s m a n t l e d easily, sink, bath a n d washbasin traps are often connected to the pipework by means o f compression joints that incorporate a rubber ring or washer to make the joint watertight. Compression joint A threaded joint pulls the pipe and fitting together.

Types of plastic P l u m b i n g manufacturers nave a w i d e variety of plasties to d r a w u p o n , each w i t h its o w n special characteristics. M o d i f i e d i m p last ici zed p o l y v i n y l chloride ( M n P V Q A h a r d plastic, used for solvent-weld waste pipe a n d fittings. It is resistant to most domestic chemicals, a n d is n o t affected by ultra-violet light w h e n used o u t d o o r s . It is slightly more flexible than u P V C , w h i c h is used for soil pipes w i t h push-fit a n d solvent-weld joints. Polypropylene (PP) A slightly flexible plastic w i t h a somewhat waxy feel, used for waste systems. It's impossible to glue PP, so it is assembled w i t h push-fit joints. A c r y l o n i t r i l e butadiene styrene (ABS) A very t o u g h plastic that is equally suited t o h o t a n d c o l d waste. It c a n be either sol vent-welded o r compression-jointed.

26

* - S E E ALSO: Plastic supply pipes 24

Bends and elbows » Elbow 90°oustt-tH

Push-fit joints Because a waste system is never under pressure, a pipe r u n can be constructed by s i m p l y p u s h i n g p l a i n pipes into the sockets of the joints. A captive rubber seal in each socket holds the pipe in place and makes rhe joint watertight.

5 Bend 90°solvent-wetd.

PLASTIC WASTE-PIPE SIZES Overflow pipes

2 2 m m (%in)

Washbasin waste pipes

3 2 m m (l!4in)

Bath/shower and sink waste pipes

4 0 m m ¡l'/án)

Soil pipe

1 1 0 m m (4in)

Push-fit joint A rubber ring inside rhe sleevi rips the end of the pipe.

Joining plastic waste pipes It's i m p o r t a n t t o f o l l o w t h e instructions supplied w i t h any particular brand of pipe o r fitting,

but the m e t h o d s g i v e n

below a n d o n the f a c i n g p a g e describe the b a s i c t e c h n i q u e s for c o n n e c t i n g p l a s t i c p i p e s . K e e p solvents a w a y

from

children. D o n ' t inhale solvent fumes, a n d never s m o k e w h e n w e l d i n g j o i n t s — fumes f r o m

Making solvent-weld joints W h i l e the sequence of illustrations o n the right shows large-diameter waste pipe, the method-, described are equally valid for j o i n i n g plastic supply pipe. C u t the pipe to length w i t h a finetooth saw, a l l o w i n g for the depth of the joint socket. T o make sure your cut is square, w i n d a piece o f notepaper r o u n d the tube, a l i g n i n g the w r a p p e d edge as a guide (1). Revolve the pipe away f r o m you as you cut it. S m o o t h the end w i t h a file (2),

some s o l v e n t s b e c o m e t o x i c i f inhaled t h r o u g h a cigarette. W o r k carefully and avoid spilling solvent cement — it w i l l etch the s u r f a c e o f the p i p e work a n d d a m a g e some other plastics, as w e l l .

Making push-fit joints Cut the pipe t o length and chamfer the end, as for solvent-weld joints. Wipe the inside o f the socket w i t h the recommended cleaner, a n d l u b r i c a t e the pipe w i t h a little o f the s i l i c o n e lubricant s u p p l i e d w i t h it. Push the pipe into the joint right up to the stop, and m a r k the edge of the socket on the pipe w i t h a p e n c i l (1). Withdraw the pipe about 9 m m (Van) (2), to allow the pipe to e x p a n d when subjected to hot water.

W e l d i n g the joint Push the pipe into the socket t o test the fit, then m a r k the end o f the joint o n the pipe v, itil a pencil (3|, f h i s w i l l act as a guide for a p p l y i n g the solvent. Y o u need t o key b o t h the outside o f the pipe and the inside of the socket w i t h fine abrasive paper before u s i n g some solvents (check the manufacturer's instructions).

2 Smooth the end with 3 tile

Before d i s m a n t l i n g e l b o w s and tees, scratch the pipe a n d joint w i t h a knife (4), t o help you align them correctly when you reassemble the components. Use a clean rag to wipe the surface of the pipe a n d fitting w ith the r e c o m mended spirit cleaner. Paint solvent evenly o n t o b o t h c o m p o n e n t s (S), then immediately push home the socket. (Some manufacturers r e c o m m e n d that you twist the joint t o spread the solvent.) A l i g n the joint properly a n d leave it for 15 seconds. T h e pipe is ready for use w i t h c o l d water after an hour, liut d o n ' t pass hot water t h r o u g h the system until at least four hours have elapsed (depending o n the manufacturer's recommendations) or, preferably, longer.

3 Assemble the joint and mark the socket

A l l o w i n g for e x p a n s i o n Plastic pipes e x p a n d w h e n subjected to hot water. G e n e r a l l y this is o n l y a p r o b l e m over a straight r u n m o r e t h a n 3 m (10ft) i n length - but check the m a n u f a c t u r e r ' s r e c o m m e n d a t i o n s .

• Repairing a weeping push-fit joint A push-fit joint will leak if the rubber seal has been pushed out of position. Dismantle the joint and check the condition oftho seal.

Incorporate an e x p a n s i o n c o u p l i n g w i t h a push-fit rubber seal at one end that allows the pipe t o slide in a n d out w i t h o u t p u t t i n g other joints under load. L u b r i c a t e the end o f the pipe w i t h silicone grease before you insert it into the c o u p l i n g . R e p a i r i n g a weeping joint If a joint leaks, leave it to dry out naturally. T h e n apply a little more of the solvent cement to the m o u t h o f the socket, a l l o w i n g it to flow into the joint by c a p i l l a r y a c t i o n . ? Withdraw the pipe about 9mm t'iin)

SEE ALSO: Hacksaws 74-5, Files 78

Y o u w o u l d have t o d r a i n a s u p p l y pipe before you c o u l d make this repair.

• Making compression joints to traps Traps with compression joints are made lor connecting directlytoa plain waste pipe (see opposite I- Just slip the threaded nut onto the waste pipe, tallowed by the washer and then the rubber ring. Push the pipe into the socket of the trap end tighten the compression nut.

5 Paint soi vent up to the pencil mark

Replacing a WC suite R e p l a c i n g a n o l d W C w i t h a m o d e r n s u i t e is a r e l a t i v e l y s t r a i g h t f o r w a r d p r o c e d u r e , p r o v i d e d y o u c a n c o n n e c t i t t o the e x i s t i n g b r a n c h o f the s o i l p i p e . H o w e v e r , i f y o u a r e g o i n g t o m o v e a W C ,

CHOOSING A WC CISTERN High-level cislern Antique-style cisterns are popular for authentically restored period homes.

or perhaps install a second one i n another part of your home, you w i l l have to c o n n e c t to the m a i n s o i l p i p e i t s e l f o r r u n the w a s t e d i r e c t l y i n t o the u n d e r g r o u n d d r a i n a g e s y s t e m . In e i t h e r case, i t is w o r t h h i r i n g a p r o f e s s i o n a l p l u m b e r to m a k e these c o n n e c t i o n s .

Cisterns F r o m .unique-style; high-level cisterns to discreet close-coupled o r concealed models, the choice is so wide that you're b o u n d to find one t o suit your requirements. Before buying, make sure the equipment carries the British Standard ' K i t e m a r k ' o r complies w i t h equivalent E C standards. 600mm

600mm I ligb-levcl cistern If you simply want to replace an o l d fashioned high-level cistern w i t h o u t having t o modify the p i p e w o r k , comparable cisterns are still available from p l u m b e r s ' merchants.

600mm Space for a WC Vau will need [a allow a space at leasl 600mm (2ftl square in from ot the pan

Standard low-level cistern M a n y people prefer a cistern mounted on the w a l l just above the W C p a n . A short flush pipe f r o m the base of the cistern connects t o the flushing h o r n o n the rear o f the p a n , while inlet and overflow pipes can be fined to either side o f the cistern. M o s t low-level cisterns are manufacrured from the same virreous china as the W C pan.

C o m p a c t low-level cistern W h e r e space is l i m i t e d , use a plastic cistern, w h i c h is only I I 4 m m (4'/;in| from front to back. C o n c e a l e d cistern A low-level cistern can be completely concealed behind panelling. T h e supply and overflow connections are identical to those o f other types of cistern, but the flushing lever is mounted o n the face o f the panel. These plastic cisterns are utilitarian in characrer, w i t h no concession t o fashion or style, and are therefore relatively inexpensive. D o n ' t forget that you w i l l need to provide access for servicing.

Low-level cistern This type of cistern is very common. It is made in plastic or glazed ceramic.

Compact cistern Very slim plastic cistern, for use where space is limited.

C l o s e - c o u p l e d cisterns A close-coupled cistern is bolted directly to the p a n , forming an integral unit. Both the inlet and overflow connections are made at the base o f the cistern. A n internal standpipe rises vertically from the overflow connection w i t h the pan to protrude above the level o f the water.

WC pans W h e n v i s i t i n g a s h o w r o o m , you are confronted w i t h many apparently different W C pans t o choose f r o m , but in fact there arc t w o basic patterns a w a s h d o w n pan and a s i p h o n i c pan. S i p h o n i c pans S i p h o n i c pans need no heavy fall o f water t o cleanse t h e m , and are m u c h quieter as a result. A single-trap p a n has a narrow outlet immediately after the bend, t o slow d o w n the flow o f water f r o m the p a n . T h e body o f water expels air from the outlet to p r o m o t e rhe s i p h o n i c a c t i o n . A double-trap pan is more sophisticated and exceptionally quiet. A vent pipe connects the space between t w o traps t o the inlet that runs between the cistern and p a n . A s water flows a l o n g the inlet, it sucks air from the trap system t h r o u g h the vent pipe. A v a c u u m is formed between the traps, and a t m o s p h e r i c pressure forces the water in the pan into the soil pipe.

W a s h d o w n pans W a s h d o w n pans w o r k by simple displacement o f waste by fresh water falling from the cistern. T h e y are inherently more reliable than siphonic pans, but make considerably more noise when flushed. F l o o r o r w a l l exit? W h e n r e p l a c i n g a W C p a n , check t o see whether the new- one needs t o have a floor-exit o r wall-exit trap.

Concealed cistern Plastic cistern for hiding behind panelling. Close-coupled cislern This type of cistern is designed as pert ol the WCpan

Flo Dr-ex it trap S-traps are connected to a soil pipe that is then passed through the floor

Wall-exit trap The outlet from a P-trap connects to e soil-pipe branch located behind the pan

•W- SEE ALSO: WC cisterns 12-14, Installing a WC suite 30, Bathroom planning 70

CHOOSING A WC PAN

Removing an old WC

WATER CLOSETS REPLACE

C u t off the w a t e r supply, then flush the c i s t e r n t o e m p t y it. If y o n are m e r e l y r e n e w i n g a c i s t e r n , y o u w i l l have to d i s c o n n e c t the s u p p l y a n d o v e r f l o w pipes w i t h a w r e n c h a n d l o o s e n the large nut c o n n e c t i n g Waslidowu pan The most common WC pan, with a simple trap tilled with water.

the flush p i p e to the base o f the c i s t e r n . T h e s e c o n n e c t i o n s arc often c o r r o d e d a n d p a i n t e d - s o it is easier t o h a c k s a w t h r o u g h the pipes close to the c o n n e c t i o n s i f y o u i n t e n d t o replace the entire suite.

Removing the old pan and cistern Remove the f i x i n g screws t h r o u g h the back o f the c i s t e r n , o r lift it off its support brackets and remove t h e m . Lever the brackets off the w a l l w i t h a c r o w b a r if necessary. C u t the overflow pipe f r o m the w a l l w i t h a c o l d chisel. R e p a i r the plaster when you decorate the b a t h r o o m . Single-nap siphonic pan Tile narrow oullet behind the trap slows down the How ol water ¡0 produce Die siphonic action.

If the pan is screwed to a w o o d e n floor, it w i l l probably have a P-trap connected to .1 nearly h o r i z o n t a l branch soil pipe. Remove the pan's floor-fixing screws and scrape out the o l d putty a r o u n d the pipe joint. A t t e m p t t o free the pan by p u l l i n g it towards you while

r o c k i n g it slightly f r o m side t o side. if the joint is fixed firmly, smash the pan outlet just in front o f the soil pipe w i t h a club h a m m e r (1). Protect your eyes w ith goggles. Stuff rags into the soil pipe t o prevent debris f a l l i n g i n t o it, then c h i p out the remains o f the pan outlet w i t h a c o l d chisel (2). Work carefully, to preserve the soil pijic. Smash an S-tr.tp in the same way and i f the pan is cemented t o a s o l i d floor, drive a c o l d chisel under its base to break the seal. C h o p out the broken fragments as before, and clean up the floor w i t h a c o l d chisel.

Cutting a soil pipe Use a chain-link cuttet to cute hroken soil pipe square.

Double-trap siphonic pan Air is sucked out from between the two traps to create a vacuum.

1 Break Hie outlet of the pan with a hammer

2 Use a cold chisel to cul out the remnants

Cutting the soil pipe If you break the soil pipe while c h i p p i n g out the pan outlet, cut the pipe square w i t h a chain-link pipe cutter. T o sever the pipe, c l a m p the c h a i n o f cutters a r o u n d it, and w o r k the tool's shaft back and f o r t h . W h e n you buy a pushfit pan connector (see below), make sure it is l o n g e n o u g h to reach the severed pipe.

Wall-huug pan A waif-mounted pan, connectedlo a concealed cistern, leaves the floor clear tor cleaning. Unless it is built intolhe masonry, the pan is supported by a metal bra cketf stand.

Pan to soil-pipe connection

CUT HERE Removing an appliance If linings are corroded, remove the appliance by cutting through the Hush pipe, overflow and pan outlet

Before you install the new suite, choose a push-fit flexible connector t o join the pan to the soil pipe. There arc connectors to suit most situations, even when the t w o elements are slightly misaligned. You may need an angled connector to join a modern horizontal-outlet pan to an o l d P-trap branch pipe (see opposite). W h e n selecting a connector, make a note o f the f o l l o w i n g d i m e n s i o n s : the external diameter o f the p a n outlet, the internal diameter o f the soil pipe, and the distance between the outlet and the pipe when the p a n is installed.

SEE ALSO: Turning off the water 6-9, WC cisterns 28, Chain-link cutter 75

• Lubricating connecters When installing plastic soil-pipe connectots, smear the surfaces lightly with a silicone lubricant OFF-SET

ANGLED

Push-lit flexible pan connectors

WATER CLOSETS INSTALLING

Installing a new WC suite

SMALL-BORE WASTE SYSTEMS

C l e a n the floor a n d m a k e g o o d a n y d a m a g e before y o u b e g i n t o

T h e siting o f a W C is n o r m a l l y limited by the need t o use a conventional 110mm (4in) s o i l pipe and to provide sufficient fall to discharge the waste i n t o the s o i l stack. B y using an electrically driven p u m p and shredder unit, y o u can discharge W C waste through a 2 2 m m ('/Sin) pipe up t o 50m (55yd) away from the stack. T h e shredder will even p u m p vertically, to a m a x i m u m height o f about 4m (12ft).

install a n e w W C suite.

Fitting and plumbing the suite Push rhe plastic connector o n t o the pan outlet. C h e c k that the inside of the soil pipe is clean and s m o o t h , then slide the pan into place, p u s h i n g the connectot firmly into the pipe. D o n ' t f i x the pan yet. In a concrete floor, d r i l l f i x i n g holes a n d p l u g them. Level the pan o n a bed o f silicone sealant, using scraps o f veneer o r v i n y l floorcovering as p a c k i n g . T r i m the p a c k i n g flush when the job's complete.

Tun dish A special funnel known as atundish allows you 10 detect an overflow from a cistern.

• Fixing a new WC pan to ttle floor All manufacturers advise against the old-fashioned method of cementing a WC panto a concrete floot. In fact, guarantees are usually invalidated if cement or a strong adhesive is used, ffytiti can't screw The pan in place {see right), just rely on the bed of silicone sealant to bond the pan to the floor.

• Installing a new highlevel cistern A three-piece adjustable flush pipe allows you to hang a high-level cistern to one side of the pan. Fit a flow restrictor in the pan inlet if splashing water is a problem.

30

the floor, tightening the screws carefully in rotation t o avoid c r a c k i n g the pan. Y o u can buy kits that provide all the necessary fixings for fitting W C s . R u n the new 15mm (Siri) supply pipe to the float valve, fit a tap connector and tighten it w i t h a wrench.

C o n n e c t the flush pipe, then h o l d the cistern against the w a l l so you can m a r k f i x i n g holes. F i x the cistern w i t h n o n - c o r r o d i n g screws and washers, m a k i n g sure it is level. You may have to use tap washers as p a c k i n g behind the cistern to provide a clearance for rhe lid. T i g h t e n the flush-pipe c o n n e c t i o n under rhe cistern.

A t t a c h a 2 2 m m (Kin) overflow pipe, using the connector that's p r o v i d e d . D r i l l a hole through the nearest outside w a l l where an overflow is likely to be detected promptly. Slope the pipe a few degrees d o w n w a r d s , and let ir project from the outer face o f the w a l l at least 1.50mm (6in). If there isn't an external w a l l nearby, run the pipe t o a combined waste a n d overflow unit o n the b a t h . Alternatively, fit a t u n d i s h (see left) and r u n the overflow to the flush pipe o r via a trap t o a d r a i n .

Fit special protective sleeves into the p a n - f i x i n g holes and screw the pan to

T u r n on the water supply and adjust the float valve.

Plumbing a WC 1 Overflow-pipe connector 2 22mm (Kin) overflow 3 Cistern 4 Float valve 5 Tap connector G 15mm (14in) supply pipe 7 Flush-pipe connector 8 Flush pipe 9 Push-fit flexible connector 10 WC-pan outlet 11 Flexible outlet connector 12 Soil pipe

Y o n c a n r u n the s m a l l - b o r e pipework t h r o u g h the n a r r o w space between a floor and c e i l i n g . Consequently, a W C can be i n s t a l l e d as part o f an en-suite b a t h r o o m , i n a basement, even u n d e r the s t a i r s , p r o v i d e d that the space is adequately ventilated. The unit is designed to accept any conventional P-trap W C p a n . It is activated by flushing the cistern, and switches off about 18 seconds later. It must be w i r e d to a fused connection u n i t - via a suitable flex outlet if it is installed in a b a t h r o o m . T h e waste pipe can be connected to the soil stack using any standard 32mm (lMin) pipe boss, provided the manufacturer supplies a 22 to 32mm (}A to lMin) adaptor. A W C waste pipe must be connected to the soil stack at least 200nun (Sin) above o r below any other waste connections. Before you install a small-bore waste system, check that these systems are approved by your local water supplier.

Small-bore waste system for a WC The shredding unit fits neatly behind a P-trap WC pan. When situated ins bathroom, the unit must be wired to a flex outlet. Othetwise, il can be connected directly to a fused connection unit

: « ~ SEE ALSO: Adjusting float values 8, Connecting pipes 19-27, Concealing pipework 31, Overflow Tank connector 49, Fused connection units 72, Float values 81

47,

81,

Choosing a washbasin

CONCEALING PIPEWORK

Whether y o u ' r e m o d i f y i n g e x i s t i n g p l u m b i n g o r r u n n i n g p i p e w o r k to a n e w l o c a t i o n , f i t t i n g a w a s h b a s i n i n a b a t h r o o m o r guest r o o m is likely t o present f e w d i f f i c u l t i e s p r o v i d e d y o u give s o m e t h o u g h t to h o w y o u w i l l r u n the w a s t e t o the v e r t i c a l s t a c k . T h e w a s t e p i p e must have a m i n i m u m fall o r s l o p e o f 6 m m (!4in) f o r every 3 0 0 m m (1ft) o f p i p e r u n a n d s h o u l d not be m o r e t h a n 3 m (10ft) l o n g .

Wall-hung and pedestal washbasins are invariably made f r o m vitreous c h i n a , hut basins that are s u p p o r t e d all r o u n d by a counter top are also available in pressed steel and plastic.

Pedestal basins The hollow pedestal provides some support for the basin and it conceals the unsightly supply a n d waste pipes.

Wall-hung basins Wall-liung, basin '1..-

i w

In a c l o a k r o o m o r W C where space is very l i m i t e d , a small h a n d b a s i n can be recessed into one o f the walls. A l s o , you can recess a standard basin to conceal the- p l u m b i n g .

J!

i

Corner basins

Recessed basins

a

• Y o u can m i n i m i z e the effect by t a k i n g , care to g r o u p pipes together neatly and

•

Select the taps at the same time, to ensure that the basin o f your choice has holes at the required spacing to receive the taps - or no holes at all if the taps are to be w a l l - m o u n t e d .

Handbasius that fit i n t o the corner o f a room arc space-saving, a n d the pipework can be run conveniently t h r o u g h adjacent walls o r concealed by b o x i n g rliem m across the corner.

W i t h carefully designed pipe runs, it s h o u l d be possible to p l u m b your house w i t h o u t a single pipe being visible. In practice, however, there are always situations where y o u have no o p t i o n • but to surface-run some pipes.

• keeping runs b o t h straight and p a r a l l e l . • W h e n painted to match the skirtings • o r walls, such pipes are barely visible. Alternatively, using softwood battens • and p l y w o o d , you can make your own • accessible ducting to bridge the corner • o f a r o o m ; o r construct a false skirting , that is deep enough to c o n t a i n the pipes, • F o r total accessibility, you can use • propnerary d u c t i n g made from P V O T h i s is manufactured in a range of sizes, to contain grouped o r individual pipes.

Selecting a washbasin

Older w a l l - h u n g basins are supported on large screw-fixed brackets, but a modern concealed m o u n t i n g is just as strong provided the w a l l fixings are secure. Check that you c a n screw into the studs of a timber-frame w a l l or hack off the lath-and-plaster and install a m o u n t i n g b o a r d . If you want to hide pipes, consider some form of panelling.

• • • •

Corner basin

f

H/i

Recessed basin

/

Counter-top basins In a large bathroom or bedroom, you can fit a washbasin or p a i r o f basins into a counter top as part o f a built-in vanity unit. Cupboards below provide ample storage for towels and toiletries, while also hiding the plumbing. Counter-lop basin

SEE ALSO: Fitting a washbasin 33, Bathroom planning 70

IfiS^I

Space lor a basin Allow extra elbow room lor washing hair-a space 1100mm I3fi Sin) x 700mm (2tt 4in) should be sufficient. To suit most people, positioo the rim of a basin 800mm 12ft 8ln| from the floor.

WASHBASINS TAPS

Selecting taps T a p s — w h i c h are n o w very m u c h a f a s h i o n i t e m — c o m e i n different styles a n d c o l o u r s . N o t a l l taps are b u i l t t o last, s o c h e c k the q u a l i t y if y o u are b u y i n g f o r the l o n g t e r m . C h r o m i u m - p l a t e d brass taps are the m o s t d u r a b l e . C h e c k t h a t the taps y o u are c o n s i d e r i n g w i l l fit the l a y o u t o f h o l e s i n the b a s i n f o r w h i c h they're i n t e n d e d .

• The right pressure Some taps imported from the Continent have relatively small inlets and are intended for use with mainspressure supply only. Thesetaps will not work efficiently if they are connected to a low-pressure tank-fed supply.

Types of tap

Tap mechanisms

The majority o f washbasins are fitted with individual taps for hot and c o l d water. W h i l e capstan-head taps are still manufactured for use in period-style bathrooms, most modern taps have a shrouded head made of metal o r plastic.

O v e r recent years there have been some revolutionary changes in the design of taps that have made them easier t o operate and simpler to m a i n t a i n .

A lever-head tap turns the water from off to full o n w i t h one quarter turn only. This type is convenient for the elderly or disabled, who may have difficulty in manipulating other taps. In a mixer tap, hot and water c o l d are directed t o a c o m m o n spout. Water is supplied at the desired temperature by adjustment of the two valves. W i t h a single-lever m i x e r tap, flow rate and temperature are controlled by adjusting the one lever. W a s h b a s i n m i x e r taps sometimes incorporate a p o p - u p waste p l u g . A series of interlinked.rods, operated hy a button o r s m a l l k n o b o n the centre of the mixer, open a n d close the waste p l u g in the b a s i n .

Single-lever mixer tap Moving the lever up and down turns the water on and off. Swinging it from one side to the other gradually increases the temperature, by mixing more hof water with the cold.

N o r m a l l y , the body o f the tap (which connects the valves and spout) rests on the upper surface o f the washbasin. But it is also possible t o m o u n t it in its entirety o n the w a l l above the basin. A n o t h e r alternative is for the valves to be mounted o n the basin and divert hot and c o l d water t o a spout mounted o n the w a l l above.

Basin and bath taps (tog tow - left to right)

Single capstan-head pillattaps Single-lever Taps One-hole basin mixer (bottom row-left to right!

Two - h of e bath mixer Three-hole basin mixer Shower-mixer deck

SEE ALSO: Repairing taps 33

R i s i n g - s p i n d l e taps This t r a d i t i o n a l tap design has a washet on the end o f a spindle that rises as the tap is turned o n . It is a simple, rugged mechanism that lasts for years. N o n - r i s i n g - s p i n d l e taps Theoretically, these taps s h o u l d e x h i b i t fewer problems rhan rising-spindle taps, because the m e c h a n i s m imposes less wear o n the washer. In p r a c t i c e , however, the spindle's fine thread is prone t o wear, and there is p o t e n t i a l for m i s a l i g n m e n t caused by the circlip that holds the mechanism in place. C e r a m i c - d i s c taps W i t h these taps, precision-ground ceramic discs are used in place o f the t r a d i t i o n a l rubber washer. O n e disc is fixed and the other rotates until the waterways t h r o u g h them align and water flows. There is m i n i m a l wear, as hard-water scale o r other debris is unlikely t o interfere w i t h the close fit of the discs. However, if a p r o b l e m docs develop, the entire inner cartridge and the lower seal can be replaced.

Rising-spindle tap Traditional taps are Tiadewith a rising spindle. RISING

SPINDLE

Non-rising-head tap A spindle that doesn't revolve reduces west on the washer. WASHER

Ceramic-disc tap The rubber washer is replaced with rotating ceramic discs. CERAMIC

DISCS

REMOVING OLD TAPS When replacing taps, you w i l l want to use the existing p l u m b i n g if possible, but disconnecting o l d , c o r r o d e d fittings can be difficult. Apply some penetrating o i l to the tap connectors a n d to the back-nuts that clamp the tap to the basin. W h i l e the oil takes effect, shut off the c o l d and hot water supply t o the taps. If necessary, apply heat w i t h a gas torch to break d o w n the c o r r o s i o n — hut wrap a wet cloth a r o u n d nearby soldered joints, o r y o u may melt the solder. Take care that you do not damage plasric fittings a n d pipes, a n d protect flammable surfaces w i t h a ceramic tile. T r y not t o play the flame onto a ceramic basin.

A cranked spanner fits basin and bath taps

Cranked spanners It is not always possible t o engage the nuts with a standard w r e n c h . Instead, hire a special cranked spanner designed to teach into the confined spaces below a basin o r bath. Y o u can apply extra leverage to the spanner by slipping a stout metal bar or wrench handle into the other end.

Removing a stuck tap Even when you have disconnected the pipework and back-nut, you may find that the taps are stuck in place w i t h putty Break the seal by s t r i k i n g the tap tails lightly w i t h a w o o d e n mallet. Clean the remnants of putty f r o m around the holes m the basin, then fit new taps. If the tap tails arc shorter than the o r i g i n a l s , buy special adaptors designed to take up the gaps.

Releasing a lap connector Use a special cranked spanner to release the fixing nut of a tap connector.

Fitting a washbasin T u r n o f f the s u p p l y o f w a t e r t o an o l d b a s i n before y o u d i s c o n n e c t it.

Removing an old basin If you want t o use e x i s t i n g p l u m b i n g , loosen the c o m p r e s s i o n nuts o n the tap tails (see left) and trap. O t h e r w i s e , cut t h r o u g h the waste and supply pipes at the p o i n t where you can most easily connect new p l u m b i n g (1). Remove any fixings h o l d i n g the basin to its support brackets o r pedestal, and lift it f r o m the w a l l . A p p l y penetrating o i l to the brackets' w a l l fixings, in the hope that y o u ' l l be able to remove rhem without damaging the plaster - but as a last resort, lever the brackers off the w a l l . Take care not to break cast-iron fittings, as they can be quite valuable.

1 Cut through old supply pipes wifh a hacksaw

Fitting new taps Fit new taps to the basin before you fix it to the w a l l . Slip the plastic washer supplied with the tap onto its tail, then pass the tail through the hole in the basin. (If no washer is supplied, spread some silicone sealant around the top o f the tail and beneath the base of the tap.) W i t h the basm resting on its r i m , slip a second washer o n t o the tail then hand-tighten the back-nut t o clamp the tap o n t o the basin (2). C h e c k that the spout faces into the b a s i n , then tighten the back-nut carefully w i t h a cranked spanner (see left).

2 Slip the bach-nut onto the tail of the tap

Fixing the basin to the wall G e t an assistant t o h o l d a w a l l - h u n g basin against the w a l l at the required height while you use a spirit level to check that it is h o r i z o n t a l . M a r k the f i x i n g holes for the w a l l bracket (3).

For a pedestal basin (see right), place the pedestal in p o s i t i o n , then sit the basin o n it and mark the f i x i n g holes. Lay the basin (and pedestal) t o one side while you drill and p l u g the holes (4).

3 Mark the fixing holes on the wall

4 Diill and plug the holes

« • SEE ALSO: Turning off the water G, Connecting pipes 19-27, Gas torch 21, 77, Hacksaws 74-5, Spanners and wrenches 77-8

~

G

N

^ | Connecting a basin

CONNECTING WASTE PIPE TO SOIL PIPE

O n c e y o u have f i t t e d the n e w taps a n d m o u n t e d the b a s i n securely t o the w a l l , c o m p l e t e the i n s t a l l a t i o n b y c o n n e c t i n g the t r a p a n d waste p i p e , f o l l o w e d by the s u p p l y p i p e s for h o t a n d c o l d water. F i t i s o l a t i n g valves t o the s u p p l y p i p e s , t o m a k e s e r v i c i n g e a s i e r i n

1

A proprietary pipe boss is used to connect a basin waste pipe to a singlestack plastic soil pipe. There arc various ways o f connecting the boss, one of the simplest being t o c l a m p it w i t h a strap.

the f u t u r e . If y o u arc i n s t a l l i n g a p e d e s t a l b a s i n , fit the t r a p before f i x i n g the b a s i n t o the w a l l .

Plumbing a washbasin 1 Tap beck-nut andwashar 2 Flexible copper pipe 3 15mm f>4in} supply pipe 4 Isolating valves 5 Waste outlet (slot faces overflow! 6 Waste back-nui and washet 7 Bottle trap B32mmiminl waste pipe

Pressed-mela I basin When you fit taps to a pressed-metal basin, slip built-up 'top-hat washers OHIO the tails to cover the shanks. The basin itself maybe supplied with a rubber strip to seal the joint with the counter top. 11 will need a combined waste and overflow, like a bath. • Counter-lop basin Manufacturers supply a template for cutting the hole in the counter top to receive the basin Run mastic around the edge to seel a ceramic basin, and Clamp it with the filings supplied.

Typical pipe runs Red: Hoi water Blue: Cold water

Fitting trap and waste

Connecting the taps

Fit the waste outlet into the b o t t o m of the basin as described for taps, using washers o r a silicone sealant to form a watertight seal. T h e basin w i l l probably have an integral overflow r u n n i n g t o the waste, in which case ensure that the slot m the waste outlet aligns w i t h the overflow, l ighten the back-nut under the basin, while h o l d i n g the outlet still by g r i p p i n g its grille w i t h pliers.

Y o u can r u n standard 15mm (i^in) copper o r plastic pipes l o the taps a n d join them w i t h tap connectors, but it is easier t o use s h o r t lengths o f flexible corrugated copper pipe designed specially for tap c o n n e c t i o n . They c a n be bent by h a n d t o allow for any slight m i s a l i g n m e n t between the s u p p l y pipes and tap tails, and they arc easy t o fit behind a pedestal. Each pipe has a tap c o n n e c t o r at one end and a c a p i l l a r y o r c o m p r e s s i o n joint at the other.

If you can use the existing waste pipe, connect the trap to the waste outlet and to the end of the pipe. A two-part trap provides some adjustment for a l i g n i n g w i t h the o l d waste pipe.

Bottle trap it is easy TO remove a blockage from a bottle ttap, because the entire base of the Irap can be unscrewed by hend.

34

T o r u n a new 3 2 m m (IWin) waste pipe, cut a hole through the w a l l w i t h a masonry core d r i l l . R i m the pipe, w i t h sufficient fall - 6 m m (!4in) per 300mm (1ft) run - to terminate over the hopper on top of the outside downpipe o r feed into a soil pipe (sec far right). Fix the waste pipe to the w a l l w i t h saddle clips.

Connect the corrugated pipes to the tap tails, leaving them hand-tight only. T h e n run new branch pipework to meet the corrugated pipes, o r connect them to the existing p l u m b i n g . M a k e soldered o r compression joints t o connect the pipes. Use a cranked spanner to tighten ihe tap connectors. T u r n o n the water supply and check the pipes for leaks; i f you need to repair a weeping soldered joint, drain the system.

M a r k where the basin waste meets the soil pipe, and use a hole saw to cut a hole o f the recommended diameter (1). S m o o t h the edge o f the hole with abrasive paper. W i p e b o t h c o n t a c t i n g surfaces with the manufacturer's cleaner, then apply g a p - f i l l i n g solvent cement a r o u n d the hole. Strap the boss over the hole and tighten the bolt |2). Insert the rubber l i n i n g in the boss, in preparation for the waste pipe (3). L u b r i c a t e the end of the pipe and push it f i r m l y into the boss (4), C l i p the pipe t o the w a l l .

1 Cut a hole in the pipe with a hole saw

3 Insenthe rubber lining

4 Push the waste pipe into the boss

* • SEE ALSO: Draining the system 8, Connecting pipes 19-27, Cutting soil pipes 29, Fitting taps 33, Mounting a basin 33, Cranked spanner 77

Choosing a new bath A n antique c a s t - i r o n b a t h c a n b e w o r t h a great deal o f m o n e y , s o get a q u o t a t i o n f r o m a dealer i f y o u decide t o replace it. B e a r i n m i n d that there arc c o m p a n i e s t h a t r e - e n a m e l o l d b a t h s , a n d s o m e w i l l even spray t h e m i n y o u r b a t h r o o m . H o w e v e r , i f y o u r o l d b a t h has deteriorated badly, i t m a y prove m o r e e c o n o m i c a l t o r e p l a c e it - a n d a cracked b a t h w i l l be c o m p l e t e l y b e y o n d repair.

RENOVATING BATH ENAMEL Y o u can buy t w o - p a r t paints prepared specifically for restoring the enamel surface o f an o l d b a t h , sink o r b a s i n .

r-8—8-, D

T o achieve a first-class result, the bath must be s c r u p u l o u s l y clean and dry so tape plastic bags over the taps to prevent water d r i p p i n g i n t o the bath, and w o r k in a w a r m atmosphere where c o n d e n s a t i o n w i l l not occur. T o remove any grease, w i p e the surface w i t h a cloth d a m p e n e d w i t h white s p i r i t ; then p a i n t the bath from the b o t t o m upwards, i n a c i r c u l a r d i r e c t i o n . T h i s type o f p a i n t is selflevelling, so d o n ' t brush it out t o o m u c h . Pick up runs immediately, a n d w o r k q u i c k l y to keep wet edges fresh.

Access to a bath Allowa1100x7a0mm (3ft Bin x2ft4inl space beside a bath so that it's possible to climb in and out safely, and For bathing younger members of the family.

F o r a professional f i n i s h , hire a c o m p a n y that w i l l send an o p e r a t o r to spray the bath in situ. The process s h o u l d n ' t take longer t h a n t w o o r three h o u r s . F i r s t , the b a t h is cleaned c h e m i c a l l y ; then a g r i n d e r is used to key the surface and remove heavy stains. A t the same time, c h i p p e d e n a m e l can be repaired. F i n a l l y , s u r r o u n d i n g areas are masked before the b a t h is sprayed.

Selecting a bath You can purchase reproduction o r even restored V i c t o r i a n baths in cast iron from specialist suppliers, but they are likely to be expensive, i n practical terms, a cast-iron bath is far too heavy for one person t o handle - even t w o people w o u l d have difficulty c a r r y i n g one to an upstairs b a t h r o o m . A l s o , while a cast-iron bath c a n look splendid when left freestanding in a r o o m , it may be virtually impossible t o clean behind it, and panelling-iii the curved and often tapering shape is rarely successful. Nowadays, the majority of baths are made from enamelled pressed steel, acrylic or glass-reinforced plastic. T w o people can handle a steel bath w i t h ease, and you could carry a plastic bath on your o w n . A l t h o u g h m o d e m plastic baths are strong and durable, some are harmed by abrasive cleaners, bleach and especially heat. It is not advisable to use a gas torch near a plastic bath. So far as style and c o l o u r are c o n cerned, there's n o lack o f choice in any material, although the more unusual baths are likely to be made o f plastic. Nearly every bath comes w i t h m a t c h i n g panels, and o p t i o n a l features such as hand grips and dropped sides to make it easier to step in and out. Taps d o not have to be mounted at the foot o f

the bath. M a n y manufacturers offer alternative corner- o r s i d e - i n o i u l t i n g facilities, and some w i l l even cut tap holes to your specification.

Restoring an enamel surface Use a two-part paint system to restore the enamel surface of an old bath.

Y o u can order bath tubs that double as a jacuzzi - but the p l u m b i n g is somewhat complicated, so you w i l l need t o have them professionally installed.

4

-

Rectangular bath A standard rectangular bath is still the most p o p u l a r and economical design. Baths vary in size from 1.5 t o 1.8m (5 to 6ft} in length, w i t h a choice of widths f r o m 700 to 8 0 0 m m (2ft 4 i n to 2ft Sin]. C o r n e r bath A corner bath actually occupies more floor area than a rectangular bath o f the same capacity, but because the tub is turned at an angle to the r o o m it may take up less w a l l space. By virtue o f its design, a corner bath usually provides some shelf space for essential toiletries. R o u n d bath A r o u n d bath is likely to be i m p r a c t i c a l in most b a t h r o o m s - but i f you are converting a spare b e d r o o m , y o u may decide t o make the bath a feature o f the interior design as well as a practical appliance.

SEE ALSO: Selecting taps 32, Plumbing a bath 36, Shower mixers 38

Supporting a plastic bath A frame w i t h adjustable feet is supplied to cradle a flexible plastic bath. T h e parts need t o be assembled before the bath is fitted into place.

• Selecting taps for a bath In design and style, bath taps are identical to basin taps, but they ate proportionally larger, with 22mm t'iini tails. Some bath mixers are designed to supply water to a sprayhead, either mounted telephonestyle on the mixer itself or hung from a bracket mounted Dn a wall above the bath.

Assembling the ciadle Turn a bath onto its rim to fit the cradh

35

ATHS INSTALLING

Plumbing a ba

REMOVING AND INSTALLING A BATH

O n c e a b a t h is Fitted close to the w a l l , it c a n be difficult t o m a k e the joints a n d c o n n e c t i o n s - so fit the taps, overflow a n d t r a p before y o u p u s h the n e w b a t h i n t o p o s i t i o n {see b o t t o m r i g h t ) . Set the adjustable feet t o raise the r i m o f the b a t h t o the r e q u i r e d h e i g h t , a n d c h e c k it for level a l o n g its length a n d w i d t h . If the b a t h has s m a l l feet, cut t w o b o a r d s to g o u n d e r t h e m to spread the p o i n t l o a d over a w i d e r area.

Fitting the taps Waste/overflow units A flexible lube lakes any overflow water in Ihe trap.

Fit i n d i v i d u a l hot and c o l d taps as for a washbasin. F i t t i n g a m i x e r tap is a s i m i l a r procedure, but most m i x e r s arc supplied w i t h a l o n g sealing gasket that slips over b o t h tails. L o w e r the tails t h r o u g h the holes in the r i m , then slip top-hat washers o n t o t h e m and tighten b o t h back-nuts to c l a m p the m i x e r securely to t' Fit a flexible 2 2 m m pipe (similar to tho for washbasin taps) onto each tail

These flexible pipes allow for the easy adjustment that w i l l be necessary if the joints are slightly misaligned. Alternatively, attach short lengths of standard 2 2 m m (Jim) copper or plastic pipe w i t h tap connectors, in preparation for jointing to the pipe ran.

Have a s h a l l o w b o w l ready to catch any trapped water, then use a hacksaw to cut through the o l d pipes. The overflow pipe from an o l d bath w i l l almost certainly exit t h r o u g h the w a l l , so saw t h r o u g h the overflow at the same time. If the bath has adjustable feet, lowet them and then push d o w n on the bath to break the mastic seal between the b a t h r o o m walls and the r i m . Pull the bath away from the walls. If a cast-iron bath is beyond restoration and therefore worthless, it is easier to break it up i n the bathroom and carry it o u i in pieces. Drape a dust sheet over the b a t h ; then, wearing gloves, goggles and ear protectors, smash it w i t h a heavy hammer.

Installing a new bath Either run new 2 2 m m pirn) supply pipes or attach spurs to the existing ones, ready for connection ro the flexible pipes already fitted on the bath taps.

Plumbing a bath 1 Mixer tap 2 Mixer-tap gasket 3 Mixer hack-nut and washer 4 Flexible copper pipe 5 Overflow unit 6 Waste outlet 7 Waste back-nut and washer I Deep-seal trap to 40mm II Kin I waste pipe 9 Supply pipes 22mm (Wnl

Banjo unit Slips over the tail of the waste outlet.

Shallow-seal trap Use this type of trap when space is limited It musl discharge to ayard gully or hopper, not loa soil stack.

Removing an old bath

Flack the o l d overflow from the wall with a c o l d chisel, then fill the hole with m o r t a r and repair the plastcrwork.

Compression unii Runs lo the cleaning Bye on the trap.

WCand bath overflow Overflow from a W C joins the hath unit.

T u r n off the water supply before you d r a i n the system.

Slide your new bath into position a n d adjusl the height o f the feel with a spanner. Use a spirit level to check that the rim is h o r i z o n t a l . Adjust the flexible tap pipes and join them to the supply pipes. Connect a 40mm (1 hiii) waste pipe to the trap and run it to the external hopper or soil stack, as for a washbasin. Before fixing the bath panels, restore the water supply and check for leaks.

Fitting waste and overflow F i l a c o m b i n e d waste and overflow unit to the bath. A flexible plastic hose takes water f r o m the overflow outlet at the foot o f the bath to the waste outlet o r trap. If y o u use a ' b a n j o ' u n i t , you m u s l fit the overflow before the trap; but the flexible pipe o f a compression-fitting unit connects to the trap itself (see left). Spread a layer o f silicone sealant under the r i m of the waste outlet, or f i l a circular rubber seal. Before inserting its tail into the hole in the b o t t o m of the bath, seal the thread w i t h P T F E tape. O n the underside, add a plastic washer; then tighten the large back-nut, bedding

the outlet d o w n onto the sealant or the rubber seal. Wipe off excess sealant. Connect the bath trap (see left) to the tail of the waste outlet w i t h its o w n compression nut. (Fir a banjo overflow unit at the same time.) Pass the threaded boss o f the overflow hose through the hole at the foot of the b a t h . Slip a washer seal over the boss, then use a p a i r o f pliers to screw the overflow outlet grille o n .

Typical lank-led bathroom pipe runs Red: Hot water Blue Cold water.

If you're using a compression-fitting overflow, connect the nut located on the other end o f the hose to the cleaning eye of the trap.

* ~ SEE ALSO: Draining the system S, Connecting pipes 19-27, Fitting taps 33, Stack connection 34

Choosing a shower A l l s h o w e r s , e x c e p t f o r the m o s t p o w e r f u l , use less w a t e r t h a n required f o r f i l l i n g a b a t h . A n d because s h o w e r i n g is g e n e r a l l y quicker than t a k i n g a b a t h , it helps t o a l l e v i a t e the m o r n i n g queue f o r the b a t h r o o m . F o r even greater c o n v e n i e n c e , i n s t a l l a second shower

Gravity-fed showers In many homes c o l d water is stored in a t a n k , f r o m which it is fed t o a hotwater c y l i n d e r situated at a lower level. B o t h the hot-water a n d c o l d water pressures are d e t e r m i n e d by the height ( k n o w n as the 'head'] o f this c o l d - w a t e r storage tank above the shower. Provided there is at least one

metre- (.Jft) between the b o t t o m o f the tank and the showerhead, y o u s h o u l d have reasonable flow rate and pressure. If flow a n d pressure are insufficient for a satisfactory shower, it may be possible t o improve the s i t u a t i o n either by r a i s i n g the tank o r by i n s t a l l i n g a p u m p in the system.

somewhere

else i n the h o u s e - this is one o f those i m p r o v e m e n t s t h a t r e a l l y does a d d value t o y o u r h o m e . Improvements in technology have m a d e a v a i l a b l e a v a r i e t y o f powerful, controllable showers. H o w e v e r , m a n y a p p l i a n c e s are superficially similar in appearance, s o it's i m p o r t a n t t o r e a d the m a n u f a c t u r e r s ' l i t e r a t u r e carefully before y o u o p t f o r a particular model. Pressure and flow When c h o o s i n g a shower, it s h o u l d he borne in m i n d that pressure and flow are not the same thing. F o r example, an instantaneous electric shower delivers water at high mains pressure, hut a relatively low flow rate is necessary to allow the water t o heat up as it passes through die shower unit. A conventional gravity-fed supply system delivers hot water from a storage cylinder under comparatively low pressure, but often has a fairly high flow rate when measured in litres per minute. A d d i n g a p u m p to this type of system can increase the pressure and flow rare. It is then possible to alter the flow and pressure ratio by fitting an adjustable showerhe.td rhat provides a choice o f spray patterns, from needle jets to a gentle cascade (often called 'champagne'].

Mains-pressure showers Y o u c a n supply some types o f shower directly f r o m the mains. In fact, one of the simplest t o install is an instantaneous electric shower, which is designed for use w i t h mains pressure. A n o t h e r alternative is to install a thermal-store cylinder. Mains-pressure water passes through a rapid heat exchanger inside the cylinder {see right]. Yet another o p t i o n is t o store hot water

Ii 1 1

1

in an unveiucd cylinder - w h i c h w i l l supply high-pressure water to a shower w i t h o u t the need for a booster pump. Nowadays showers are often supplied Iroin c o m b i n a t i o n boilers, though these often need to run at full flow to keep the boiler firing properly. Before buying a shower, check w i t h the manufacturer o f your boiler to ascertain whether there's likely to be a problem.

The tma I-store cylinder Mains-fed water pauses through a rapid heat exchanger on its way to the shower. 1 Mains feed 2 To shower 3 Other outlets 4 Boiler connections

Shower enclosures If space permits, choose en enclosed shower cubicle (far leftl. However, there are are a number of screens and plumbing options, which make an over-the-bath showct almost as officiant.

] aF

i

1 Running trap

Drainage D r a i n i n g the used water away f r o m a shower can be more o f a p r o b l e m than r u n n i n g the supply. If it is not possible t o run the waste pipe between the floor joists or along a w a l l , then you may have t o consider relocating the shower. In some situations it may be necessary t o raise the shower tray on a plinth in order t o gain enough height for the waste pipe to fall (slope) towards the d r a i n . A n o t h e r way to overcome the problem is to install a special p u m p to take the waste water away from the shower. S h o w e r traps W h e n r u n n i n g the waste pipe t o an outside hopper, you c a n fit a convent i o n a l trap - but these are relatively

large, which can make for difficulties w h e n i n s t a l l i n g the shower tray. Y o u c o u l d cut a hole in the floor, o r substitute either a smaller, shallow-seal trap or a c o m p a c t trap that includes a removable grid and d i p tube for easy cleaning. A n o t h e r possibility is t o fit a r u n n i n g trap in the waste pipe at .i coo venient l o c a t i o n , or install a self-sealing valve in the pipe. A shower trap that is connected t o a soil stack must have a water seal not less than 5 0 m m (2in) deep. T h e easiest s o l u t i o n is t o fit a c o m p a c t trap, which is s h a l l o w enough to fit under most m o d e r n shower trays, bur is designed to provide the necessary water seal. O r you c o u l d fit either a r u n n i n g trap o r a self-scaling valve, as mentioned above.

Thisshowerhead provides a choice of spray panerns

*~ SEE ALSO: Thermal-store cylinders 37, 51, Boostet pumps 39,42, Unuented cylinders 51

Section through a compact shower trap

Cleaning compact traps Compact traps for showers have a lift-out dip tube for easy cleaning.

Shower mixers Installing an independent s h o w e r c u b i c l e w i t h its o w n supply and waste systems requires some p r i o r experience o f p l u m b i n g — b u t i f y o u use a n e x i s t i n g b a t h as a s h o w e r tray, t h e n f i t t i n g a s h o w e r u n i t can involve little more than r e p l a c i n g the taps.

Bath/shower mixers T h i s type o f shower is rhe simplest to install. It is connected to the existing 2 2 m m (Mitt) hot and eold pipes i n the same way as a standard bath mixer, and the bath's waste system takes care of the drainage. O n c e y o u have obtained the right temperature ar the spout by adjusting the h o t and eold valves, yon lift a button o n the m i x e r to divert the water to the spray head v i a a flexible hose. T h e sprayhead c a n be h u n g f r o m a w a l l - m o u n t e d bracket to provide a conventional shower, o r hand-held for w a s h i n g hair. T h e m a i n disadvantage w i t h this type o f shower is that the controls are u n c o m f o r t a b l y low to reach. Since the s u p p l y pipes are already part o f the b a t h r o o m ' s p l u m b i n g netw o r k , it's i m p o s s i b l e t o g u a r d against f l u c t u a t i n g pressure unless the m i x e r is fitted w i t h a t h e r m o s t a t i c valve o r y o u install a p r e s s u r e - e q u a l i z i n g valve in the p i p e w o r k . If the pressure is insufficient, fit a booster p u m p . D o n ' t f i t a bath/shower m i x e r unless b o t h the h o t a n d c o l d water is under the same pressure, cither high o r low.

INSTANTANEOUS SHOWERS

Thermostatic mixers A thermostatic shower m i x e r is s i m i l a r in design to a m a n u a l m i x e r but it has an extra control incorporated, to preset the water temperature. If the flow rate d r o p s o n either the hot o r c o l d supply, a thermostatic valve rapidly compensares by reducing the flow o n the other side. This is p r i m a r i l y a safety measure, to prevent the shower user being scalded s h o u l d someone run a c o l d tap elsewhere i n the house. Consequently, you c a n supply a thermostatic shower by means o f branch pipes from the bathr o o m p l u m b i n g — but try to join them as near as possible t o the cold tank and hot cylinder. T h e m i x e r can't raise the pressure o f the supply, so you still need a booster p u m p if the pressure is low. T h e r m o s t a t i c m i x e r mechanisms are usually based o n wax-filled cartridges or bimetallic strips. Brand-new thermostatic valves respond extremely q u i c k l y to changes o f temperature, but you can expect the rate to slow d o w n as scale gradually builds up inside the mixer. Even when new, reaction time w i l l be slower if the m i x e r is expected t o cope with exceptionally hot water (above 65°C/149' F). A t such high temperatures the hot-water ports arc almost fully closed and the cold-water ones almost w i d e o p e n , so there is very little margin for further adjustment. J

T h e majority of thermostatic mixers can be used w i t h the e x i s t i n g gravityfed h o t and c o l d supply, but it may be necessary t o fir a booster p u m p . C h e c k the manufacturer's literature carefully — since some showers perform well at l o w pressures, while others w i l l be less than satisfactory

Manual shower mixers A m a n u a l shower m i x e r c a n be fixed to the w a l l above a bath o r situated in a separate shower cubicle. M a n u a l m i x e r s require their o w n independent hot and c o l d supply.

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Simple versions are available w i t h i n d i v i d u a l h o t and c o l d valves, but most m a n u a l shower mixers have a single c o n t r o l that regulates the flow and temperature o f the water. Singlelever ceramic-disc m i x e r s operate exceptionally s m o o t h l y a n d , h a v i n g few m o v i n g parts, are n o t so prone to hard-water scaling. Y o u can choose a surface-mounted unit o r a nearly flush m i x e r w i t h the p i p e w o r k , connections and shower mechanism all concealed in the w a l l . Single-lever mixer With this type of mixer, a single control is used to regulate flow and temperature.

, « - SEE ALSO: Wiring a shower 71

A n i n s t a n t a n e o u s electric shower is designed s p e c i f i c a l l y f o r connection to the m a i n s w a t e r supply, u s i n g a single 1 5 m m (/tin) b r a n c h pipe from the r i s i n g m a i n . A n o n - r e t u r n valve must be fitted close t o the unit. Y o u c a n i n s t a l l a n instantaneous shower p r a c t i c a l l y a n y w h e r e , so long as drainage is feasible. I n c o m i n g water is heated w i t h i n the unit, so there is no separate hot-watet supply to balance. T h e shower is thermostatically c o n t r o l l e d to prevent fluctuations i n pressure affecting the water rcmpcratiire - i n fact, it switches off completely i f there is a serious failure o f pressure. Y o u can even buy an instantaneous shower w i t h a shutd o w n facility: when you switch off, the water continues to flow for a little while t o flush any h o t water out o f the pipework. T h i s ensures that someone stepping i n t o the cubicle immediately after another user isn't subjected to an unexpectedly h o i start to their shower.

The electrical circuit A n instantaneous shower requires its o w n circuit from the consumer unit. A ceiling-mounted double-pole switch is connected t o the circuit to turn rhe appliance o n and off.

Surface-mounted or concealed W i t h most instantaneous showers, all p l u m b i n g and electrical connections are c o n t a i n e d i n a single mixer cabinet that is m o u n t e d in the shower cubicle o r over the b a t h . However, you can buy showers w i t h a slim flush-fitting c o n t r o l panel that is connected to a power pack installed o u t o f sight - for e x a m p l e , under the bath behind a screw-fixed panel. Eir a stopcock o r miniature isolating valve i n the supply pipe to allow the shower to be serviced.

SPRAYHEADS High-performance showers have propagated a new generation o f sprayheads, which offer a variety o f spray patterns. If you're t h i n k i n g o f upgrading an existing shower by installing an electric pump, it's worth finding out whether you can also substitute an adjustable spray he ad. In addition to the standard shower spray, a simple adjustment is all that is needed to produce an invigorating jet to wake you up in the m o r n i n g o r a soft bubbly stream that is ideal for small children. Some sprayheads can also be adjusted to deliver a very light spray while you soap yourself or apply shampoo.

Cleaning a sprayhead Gradually a c c u m u l a t i o n o f lime scaleblocks the holes in the sprayhead, a n d eventually this affects the performance of yottr shower. It's therefore essential to clean the sprayhead, the frequency of cleaning depending on the hardness of the water in the area where y o u live. Remove the entire sprayhead f r o m its hose o r unscrew the perforated plate from the showerhead. Leave the sprayhead o r plate to soak in a p r o p r i e t a r y descalant until the scale has dissolved, then rinse t h o r o u g h l y under r u n n i n g cold water.

ump-assistetl showers Power showers T h e pump-assisted 'power' shower is perhaps most people's concept o f the ideal shower. T h e p u m p delivers water at a constant pressure and flow rate, eliminating the need for the m i n i m u m pressure n o r m a l l y required for a gravityfed shower. M o s t power showers need a head o f about 75 to 2 2 5 m m (3 to 9in) to activate the p u m p when the mixer control is turned o n . A p u m p can be used to boost the pressure and flow rate of stored hot and cold water, but not mains-fed water. Ideally, the c o l d supply should be taken directly from the storage tank not from branch pipes that feed other taps and appliances. T h e hot-water supply can be connected to the cylinder by means o f a Surrey o r Essex flange; this helps eliminate the tendency for the p u m p to suck in air from the vent pipe. If the water is heated by an electric i m m e r s i o n heater, make sure the c y l i n d e r is fed by a dedicated c o l d feed and that the cold-feed gate valve is fully o p e n . T h i s is to prevent the top o f

the cylinder r u n n i n g dry and perhaps b u r n i n g out the heater. If the c y l i n d e r is heated f r o m a boiler, make sure the water temperature is c o n t r o l l e d by a thermostat. If the water is t o o hot, the shower c o u l d splutter. Power showers are frequently m a n u factured w i t h an electrically driven p u m p built i n t o the m i x e r cabinet that is m o u n t e d in the shower cubicle. However, some p u m p s are designed for remote installation, w i t h hot and c o l d pipes r u n n i n g to the p u m p then out again to the shower mixer. These freestanding p u m p s can also be used to improve the performance of an existing installation. T h e usual location for this type o f p u m p is next t o the hot-water cylinder in an a i r i n g c u p b o a r d - as low as possible, so that the p u m p remains full o f water. However, there are also pumps that are designed to perform satisfactorily when mounted at a high level - even in the loft, if that is the only o p t i o n available. In such situations, a single-impeller p u m p is best.

• Water Regulations It the shower is mounted in such a way that the sprayhead could dangle below the rim of the both or shower tray, you have to fit double-seal no/i-return valves tn the supply pipes to prevent dirty water being siphoned back into the system

Before you reattach the sprayhead o r plate, turn o n the shower to flush any loose scale deposits f r o m the p i p e w o r k .

All-in-one power shower The cold supply comes from the storage cistern, and the hot supply from the hot-water cylinder.

A separate booster pump A typical installation with hot and cold supplies being fed through a twin-impeller pump.

Computer-controlled showers Electrical installations Llectrical installations in a b a t h r o o m are potentially dangerous - w h i c h is why they must c o n f o r m to the current Wiring Regulations c o m p i l e d by the Institution o f I dec tri cal Engineers. Before you undertake the w o r k , read the electrical section in this book and check the manufacturers' instructions carefully to make sure y o u understand the requirements for w i r i n g in a bathroom. If you are in any doubt as to the procedure, o r have not had previous experience, hire a qualified electrician.

C o m p u t e r i z e d showers a l l o w for the precise selection o f temperature and flow rates, using a touch-sensitive c o n t r o l panel. M u s t panels also include a m e m o r y p r o g r a m , so that each member o f a family c a n select their o w n p r e p r o g r a m m e d ideal shower. Far f r o m being simply a g i m m i c k y sales device, a c o m p u t e r i z e d shower has real advantages for the disabled and for elderly people. These showers are exceptionally easy to operate - and the c o n t r o l panel c a n even be m o u n t e d outside the cubicle, so that it's possible to operate the shower on behalf o f someone else.

SEE ALSO: Cylinder flanges 42, Electricity 69, Electric shock treatment 80

High- level pump If this is yout only option, it is best to fit a single-impeller pump between the miner and the sprayhead.

Building a shower cubicle W i t h o u t d o u b t , t h e s i m p l e s t w a y to a c q u i r e a s h o w e r c u b i c l e is t o i n s t a l l a f a c t o r y - a s s e m b l e d c a b i n e t , c o m p l e t e w i t h tray a n d m i x e r , t o g e t h e r w i t h w a t e r p r o o f d o o r s o r a c u r t a i n to c o n t a i n t h e spray f r o m the s p r a y h e a d . O n c e y o u have r u n s u p p l y p i p e s a n d d r a i n a g e , the i n s t a l l a t i o n is c o m p l e t e . H o w e v e r , f a c t o r y - b u i l t c a b i n e t s arc e x p e n s i v e a n d there is a n a l t e r n a t i v e — t o c o n s t r u c t a p u r p o s e - m a d e s h o w e r c u b i c l e t o fit t h e a l l o c a t e d space.

Choosing the site

C o r n e r site [f you position the tray in a corner o f a r o o m , then t w o sides o f the cubicle are ready-made. R u n a currahi a r o u n d the tray o r install a corner-entry enclosure with s l i d i n g doors. Alternatively, build a fixed side w a l l yourself and put cither a d o o r o r a c u r t a i n across the entrance.

Shower trays arc made from a variety of materials, but plastic trays arc the most c o m m o n . T h e relatively cheap lightweight trays tend t o flex slightly in use, so it's p a r t i c u l a r l y important to sea! the edges carefully, using a flexible mastic (don't rely on grout). Thicker cast plastic trays are more substantial and r i g i d , as are ceramic trays. T h e majority o f shower rrays are between 750 and 900mm (2ft 6in and 3ft) square. Y o u can also buy trays that have a cut-off or rounded corner to save floor space. Larger rectangular trays provide more e l b o w r o o m .

W h e n d e c i d i n g u p o n the l o c a t i o n o f your shower, consider whether you can use the e x i s t i n g walls - o r do you need new p a r t i t i o n s to enclose the cubicle? Freestand iug Y o u can place the shower tray against a flat w a l l and either construct a stud p a r t i t i o n o n each side o r s u r r o u n d the tray w i t h a proprietary enclosure.

SHOWER TRAYS

Freestanding unit Two new partitions.

Corner site Enclosed by a curtain

Built-in cupboards To i n c o r p o r a t e a shower cubicle tinobtrusively i n a b e d r o o m , place it in a corner, as described above, then c o n struct a b u i l t - i n wardrobe between the shower and the opposite w a l l .

Freestanding unit Proprietary enclosure-

M o s t trays are designed to stand on the floor and have a surround that is about 150mm (6tn) in height. Some have adjustable feet for levelling the tray; or even a metal underframe to raise it off the g r o u n d , providing a fall for the waste pipe; A plinth screwed across the front of the tray hides the underframe and p l u m b i n g , and provides access to the trap for servicing. Some shower trays are intended to be sunk, so that they arc flush w i t h the floor.

Corner site Partition and curtain.

Corner site Built-in cupboards.

Concealing the plumbing O n e s o l u t i o n for c o n c e a l i n g the pipes is t o install a p r o p r i e t a r y shower cubicle that has a plastic p i l l a r i n the corner, w h i c h is designed t o h i d e the p l u m b i n g and house the m i x e r and adjustable sprayhead (see left). If y o u erecr a stud p a r t i t i o n , then you can run the pipework between the studs. Screw exrerior-grade p l y w o o d o r cement-based w a l l b o a r d o n the inside of the frame for a tiled finish. A l t e r n atively, use prefinished b a t h r o o m wall panelling.

Shapes and sizes Showoi trays ate hetween 750 and 900mm (2ft ¡in and 3ft) square, usually with a surround that is about 150mm IBin) high, though this does vary, Shaped trays and ones with cut-off corners are useful where space is limited. Large rectangular trays are available to fill roomy shower cubicles.

M o u n t the shower m i x e r and sprayhead. Finish the inside w i t h ceramic riles, as required, then seal the shower tray joints w i t h mastic. Y o u w i l l find it easier i f y o u connect the p l u m b i n g t o the shower m i x e r before you enclose rhe outside o f the p a r t i t i o n . If you've decided to fit decorative wall panelling, cut it to size and fix the panels, using screws and the plastic corner profiles supplied. Finally, seal all joints, i n c l u d i n g those a r o u n d the edges of the tray, w i t h waterproof mastic.

in) rising m a i n . C o n n e c t i n g the d i s t r i b u t i o n pipes T h e 2 2 m m l?Mn) pipes r u n n i n g t o the c y l i n d e r a n d c o l d taps arc attached by means o f tank connectors - threaded inlets w i t h a c o m p r e s s i o n fitting for the p i p e w o r k . D r i l l a hole for each tank connector, about 5 0 m m (2in) above the b o t t o m o f the t a n k . Push the fittings t h r o u g h each hole, w i t h one polythene washer o n the inside. W r a p a couple o f turns of P T F E tape a r o u n d the threads, then fit the other washer. Screw rhe nut o n , h o l d i n g the tank connector t o stop it t u r n i n g . D o n ' t overtighten the nut o r y o u w i l l damage the washer, c a u s i n g it to leak. Take the o p p o r t u n i t y t o fit a gate valve t o each d i s t r i b u t i o n pipe, so you c a n cut off the s u p p l y o f water w i t h o u t having t o empty the tank.

C o n n e c t i n g the overflow D r i l l a hole 2 5 m m (1 in) below the level of the float-valve inlet for ihc threaded connector o f the overflow-pipe assembly Pass the connector through the bole, fit a washer, and tighten its f i x i n g nut on the inside of the tank. Fit the dip pipe and insect filter. A t t a c h a 2 2 m m (Win) plastic overflow pipe to the assembly. R u n the pipe to the floor, then to the outside of the house, m a i n t a i n i n g a c o n t i n u o u s fall. T h e pipe must emerge in a c o n s p i c u o u s p o s i t i o n , so that an overflow can be detected immediately. C l i p the pipe t o the roof timbers. .Modifying existing plumbing M o d i f y the r i s i n g m a i n and d i s t r i b u t i o n pipes to align w i t h their fittings, then connect them w i t h compression fittings. (Don't use soldered joints near a plastic tank.) C l i p all the pipework securely to the joists.

Tank cutlers Hire a lank cutler to bore holes in the tank for pipework. Some cutters are adjustable, so you can dtiil holes of different diameters. An alternative isto use a hole saw clamped to a dtill bit

Hole saw

O p e n the m a i n stopcock and check for leaks as the tank fills. A d j u s t the float a r m t o m a i n t a i n a water level 2 5 m m ( l i n ) below the overflow outlet. A d a p t the vent pipe f r o m the hotwater c y l i n d e r to pass t h r o u g h the hole in the l i d . F i n a l l y , insulate the tank and p i p e w o r k - but make sure there is no loft i n s u l a t i o n under the c i s t e r n , as this w i l l prevent w a r m t h r i s i n g f r o m below.

Plumbing a lank. 1 Roatvalve 2 Reinforcing plate 3 Tap connector fl Rising main 5 Tank connector 6 Gale valve 7 Distribution pipe 22mm (Mint B Pipe clip 9 Overflow-pipe assembly 10 Overflow pipe 11 Vent pipe

The tank may have been built into the house before the roof was completed, in which case it's unlikely to pass through the hatch. Just pull it to one side. If you need the space, it is possible to cut the tank up, using an angle grinder. Wear a mask, gloves, goggles and ear defenders while you w o r k . Prepare a f i r m base for the new tank by nailing stout planks across the joists, or lay a platform made from p l y w o o d IStnm (%n) t h i c k .

SEE ALSO: Bate value 8, Adjusting a float arm 14, Compression joints 20, Tap connectors 24, Hot-water cylinders 5D-1, Float values 81

Adjustable cutter

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Vented hot-water cylinders! HOT-WATER CYLINDERS In m o s t houses, the h o t w a t e r is h e a t e d a n d s t o r e d i n a l a r g e c o p p e r c y l i n d e r s i t u a t e d i n the a i r i n g c u p b o a r d . C o l d w a t e r is fed t o the base o f the c y l i n d e r f r o m the c o l d - w a t e r storage t a n k h o u s e d i n the loft. A s the w a t e r is h e a t e d , it rises t o the t o p o f the c y l i n d e r , w h e r e it is d r a w n off v i a a b r a n c h f r o m the vent p i p e t o the h o t taps. W h e n the h o t w a t e r is r u n off, i t is r e p l a c e d b y c o l d w a t e r at the base o f the c y l i n d e r , r e a d y for h e a t i n g . T h e vent p i p e itself r u n s b a c k t o the l o f t , w h e r e i t passes t h r o u g h

u p the c o l d - f e e d p i p e i n t o the c o l d - w a t e r storage t a n k .

Some cylinders arc made from thin, uninsulated copper and need to have a thick lagging jacket ro reduce heat loss. However, for better performance use a K i t e - m a r k e d factory-insulated cylinder that is prccovered w i t h a thick layer of foamed polyurethane. A l t h o u g h more expensive, they are a good investment.

Methods of heating water

Changing a cylinder

There art: t w o different methods of heating the water in a vented hot-water cylinder: either directly - usually by means of electric i m m e r s i o n heaters - or indirectly by a heat exchanger connected to the central-heating system.

You may w i s h to replace an existing cylinder because it has s p r u n g a leak, or because a larger one w i l l allow yon to take full advantage of cheap nighttime electricity by storing more hot water, A simple replacement can sometimes be achieved without m o d i f y i n g the p l u m b i n g , but y o u ' l l have t o adapt the pipework to fit a larger cylinder.

the l i d o f the c o l d - w a t e r storage t a n k , w i t h its o p e n e n d just a b o v e the level o f the water. T h e vent p i p e p r o v i d e s a safe escape r o u t e f o r a i r b u b b l e s a n d s t e a m , s h o u l d the s y s t e m o v e r h e a t . W h e n w a t e r is h e a t e d , it e x p a n d s . The vent p i p e a c c o m m o d a t e s s o m e o f this e x p a n s i o n , b u t m u c h o f the excess w a t e r is forced b a c k Typical pipe funs Red: Hotwater Blue: Cold water

Direct h e a l i n g Water heating can be a c c o m p l i s h e d solely by means o f electric i m m e r s i o n heaters - c i t h e r a single-element o r double-element heater is fitted in the top o f the c y l i n d e r or there may be t w o i n d i v i d u a l side-entry heaters.

Direct water heating by means of a boiler

A n alternative is for the water t o be heated in a boiler, the sole purpose o f which is t o provide hot water for the cylinder. A cold-water pipe runs from the base o f the c y l i n d e r t o the boiler, where the water is heated; and it then returns t o the top half o f the cylinder. B o t h methods arc k n o w n as direct systems. In practice, a boiler-heated c y l i n d e r is generally fitted w i t h a n i m m e r s i o n heater as w e l l , so that hot water can be s u p p l i e d independently d u r i n g the summer, when using the boiler w o u l d make the r o o m where it is situated u n c o m f o r t a b l y w a r m .

Indirect water beating employs The centralhealing tioiler

50

T h e capacity of domestic cylinders n o r m a l l y ranges from about 114 litres (25 gallons) to 227 litres (50 gallons), although it is possible to obtain biggct cylinders ro meet the requirements of a large family; A cylinder w i t h a capacity of between 182 and 227 litres (40 and 50 gallons) w i l l store enough hot water to satisfy the needs o f an average family for a whole day.

Direct cylinder 1 Vent pipe 2 Hot-water branch pipe 3 Lower immersion hoeter Iprovides hot water using cheaper nightrate electricity) 4 Opper immersion healer (used fordaytima top-op heating onlyl 5 Cold-feed pipe 6 Draincock

Indirect heating W h e n a house is centrally heated w i t h radiators fed by a boiler, the water in the c y l i n d e r is usually heated indirectly hy a heat exchanger. H o t water from the boiler passes t h r o u g h the exchanger (a c o i l e d tube w ithin the c y l i n d e r ) , where the heat is transmitted t o the stored water. T h e heat exchanger is part o f a completely self-contained system, w h i c h has its o w n feed-and-expansion tank (a s m a l l storage tank in the loft) t o top up the system. A n open-ended vent pipe terminates over the same s m a l l tank. T h e whole system is k n o w n as the p r i m a r y c i r c u i t , and the pipes r u n n i n g f r o m and back to the boiler are k n o w n as the p r i m a r y flow and r e t u r n . A n indirect system is often supplemented w i t h an i m m e r s i o n hearer, t o provide hot water d u r i n g the s u m m e r m o n t h s . Indirect cylinder 1 Vent pipe 2 Back-up Immersion heatet 3Flowtrom boiler 4 Heal exchanger 5 Return to boiler 6 Oraincock 7 Cold feed from tank

If you p l a n to install central heating at some point in the future, you can p l u m b in an indirect cylinder fined w ith a double-element immersion heater and simply leave the heat-exchanging coil unconnected for the time being. First switch off and disconnect any i m m e r s i o n heaters from the electrical supply, then drain the cylinder and pipew o r k . U s i n g a special spanner (available from a tool-hire outlet), unscrew the i m m e r s i o n heaters. Disconnect all the pipework, springing it out o f the way while you remove the cylinder. Place the new cylinder in position and check the existing pipework for alignment. M o d i f y the pipes as need be, then make the connections, using P T F E tape to ensure that the threaded joints ace watertight. Fit a draincock ro the feed pipe f r o m the tank, if there isn't one already installed. With the fibre sealing washer in place, wrap P T F E tape a r o u n d the thread of the immersion heater and screw it into the cylinder. Connect the immersion heater t o the electrical supply, then fill the system and check for leaks before you attempt t o heat the water. Check for leaks again when the water is up ro temperature.

• ~ S E E A L S O : Draining the system 8, Connecting pipes 19-27, Compression joints 20, Wiring side-entry heaters 73,

Wiring immersion heaters 73, Electric shock treatment 80, PTFE tape 81

Invented cylinders

THERMAL-STORE CYLINDERS A thermal-Store cylinder reverses the indirect p r i n c i p l e . Water heated by a central-heating boiler passes through the cylinder a n d transfers heat, via a highly efficient c o i l e d heat exchanger, to mains-fed water s u p p l y i n g hot taps t o d showers. A n integral feed-and cxpansion tank is n o r m a l l y built on top of the cylinder. When the system is w o r k i n g at m a x i mum capacity, the mains-fed water is delivered at such a high temperature that c o l d water must be added via a thermostatic m i x i n g valve p l u m b e d into the outlet s u p p l y i n g taps a n d showers. A s the cylinder is exhausted, less c o l d water is added. The t h e r m a l store system provides mains-pressure hot water t h r o u g h o u t the house, dispenses w i t h the need for a cold-water storage tank in the loft, a n d increases the efficiency o f the boiler. A valve is needed to prevent the beat from the cylinder 'rhermo-siphoning' (gravity circulating) around rhe centralheating system. T h i s can be a motorized valve o r a simple mechanical gravitycheck (non-return) valve that is opened by the force o f the central-heating pump.

A n unvented cylinder supplies mains-pressure hot water througho u t the h o u s e . T h i s is a c h i e v e d b y c o n n e c t i n g t h e c y l i n d e r d i r e c t l y to the r i s i n g m a i n . M o s t m a n u f a c t u r e r s r e c o m m e n d a 2 2 m m (%in) i n c o m i n g p i p e , b u t i n p r a c t i c e a 1 5 m m (|/:in) m a i n at h i g h pressure is n o r m a l l y a d e q u a t e . A n u n v e n t e d c y l i n d e r c a n be h e a t e d d i r e c t l y , using i m m e r s i o n heaters; o r indirectly, p r o v i d e d y o u are n o t using a solid-fuel boiler. T h e r e are n o storage tanks, feed-ande x p a n s i o n tanks o r open-vent pipes associated w i t h unvented cylinders. Instead, a d i a p h r a g m inside a pressure vessel m o u n t e d o n t o p o f the c y l i n d e r flexes to a c c o m m o d a t e e x p a n d i n g water. If the vessel fails, an e x p a n s i o n relief valve protects the system by releasing water via a discharge pipe. There are several other safety devices associated w i t h unvented cylinders. A n o r m a l thermostat s h o u l d keep the temperature o f the water i n the cylinder below 65°C (150 F). If it reaches 90°C (195°F), then a second thermostat w i l l either switch off the i m m e r s i o n heaters or shut off the water supply from the boiler. Finally, i f it s h o u l d get as hot as 95°C (20S 'F), a temperature-relief valve opens a n d discharges water outside. D

1

B y l a w s a n d regulations T h e installation o f an unvented hotwater cylinder needs to c o m p l y w i t h both the Water Regulations a n d the B u i l d i n g Regulations. It has t o include all the necessary safety devices a n d be installed by a competent fitter, such as those registered w i t h the Institute of P l u m b i n g , the C o n s t r u c t i o n Industry T r a i n i n g B o a r d , o r the A s s o c i a t i o n of Installers o f Unvented H o t Water Systems (Scotland a n d N o r t h e r n Ireland). Have the i n s t a l l a t i o n serviced regularly by a s i m i l a r l y qualified firter, to make sure a l l the equipment remains in g o o d w o r k i n g order. Y o u must notify the water c o m p a n y and your local B u i l d i n g C o n t r o l Office of your i n t e n t i o n to install an unvented hot-water cylinder.

A s w i t h all open-vented systems, the feed-and-expansion tank determines the head o f water, and radiators must be lower than the tank i n order t o be filled with water. When the tank is c o m b i n e d with the cylinder, it needs to be situated on the top floor of the house i n order to provide central heating throughout the building. If that is impossible, install a tankless thermal-store cylinder and fit a conventional feed-and-expansion tank in the loft. Thermal-store cylinder 1 Integral feed-andexpansion tank 2 Heal-exchanger 1 Supply pipe lo hot taps/shower 4 Thermostatic mixing value

5 Expansion vessel 6 Mains feed 7 Space-heating flow 8 Space-heating return 9 Boiler flow 10 Boiler return

-- D h Ji I I

"

-*

9

5

lgrcssivcly finer abrasives as the work proceeds. v

• Essential 1 DO Is and materials Engineer's pliers Wire brush Wire wool Emery cloth and emeiy paper

PLIERS Pliers are for improving your grip on small component and for bending and shaping nieial rod and wire.

MAXIMUM LENGTHS FOR DOMESTIC CIRCUITS Engineer's pliers For genera I-pur pose work, bu> a sturdy pair of engineer's pliers. The toothed jaws have a curved section for gripping round stock and also have side cutters for cropping wire.

t i

/*»

I Ë s a

fî

Slip-joint or water pump pliers The spci.nl feature of dlp-i-lnt pliers is a movable pivot for enlarging the jaw spacing, t he extra-long handles give a good grip on pipes and other fittings. Use smooth-jaw pliers to grip chromed fittings.

2 Clean a pipe with an emery strip Using emery cloth and paper To avoid rounding the crisp edges of a flat component, glue a sheet of emery paper lo a board and rub the metal mi the abrasive {If. To finish round stock or pipes, loop a strip of emery cloth over the tvark and pull alternately on each end (Zf.

SEE ALSO: Replacing washers 10, Dismantling taps 33

/

ss g o,

1 USING FUSES

TYPE OF CIRCUIT

to.

M

/If t l u 1 Ii If J'Il

c CO / 5 s S

1 1 USING MCBs

RING CIRCUIT

100

2.5

1.5

30amp

6Bm

RADIAL CIRCUIT

20

2.5

1.5

20a mp

37m

32B m p

-lili

68m 34m

SO

4

1.5

30a rep

19m

32amp

21m

COOKER up to 13.5kW

4

1.5

30a m p

19m

32 amp

21m

COOKER from13.Stol8kW

6

2.5

40a mp

27m

IMMERSION HEATER up to 3kW

2.5

1.5

15amp

33m

16amp

39m

SHOWER tip ta 10.3kW

10

4

45a m p

46 m

45amp

46m

SHOWER ftoml0.3 to lO.okW

10

4

50a m p

44m

STORAGE HEATER up to 3.375kW

2.5

1.5

15amp

34m

IGamp

34m

STORAGE FAN HEATER up to GkW

4

1.5

30a mp

32m

32a mp

32m

FIXED LIGHTING excluding switch drops

1

1

5amp

83m

6am p

B3m

1.5

1

5amp

126-11

Samp

126m

79

Artificial ventilation

DEALING WITH ELECTRIC SHOCK

Severe e l e c t r i c s h o c k c a n m a k e a p e r s o n s t o p b r e a t h i n g . O n c e y o u have freed t h e m f r o m the e l e c t r i c i t y s u p p l y ( w i t h o u t g r a s p i n g the v i c t i m ' s b o d y d i r e c t l y — see r i g h t ) , revive t h e m by m e a n s o f artificial ventilation.

Clear the airway

Mouth-to-nose

First, clear the victim's airway. T o do this, loosen the clothing round the neck, chest and waist, make sure that the m o u t h is free o f food, and remove loose dentures.

If injuries ro the face make mouth-tomouth ventilation impossible, follow a similar procedure but keep the victim's m o u t h covered w i t h one hand a m i blow firmly into the nose (2).

If someone receives an electric shock and is still in contact w i t h irs source, t u r n off the current either by p u l l i n g out the p l u g or by switching off at the socket o r consumer unit. If this is not possible, don't take h o l d o f the person as the current may pass through you too. Pull the v i c t i m free w i t h a scarf or dry towel, o r k n o c k their hand free w i t h a piece of w o o d . A s a last resort, free the victim by t a k i n g hold o f their loose clothing - but without touching the body. D o n ' t attempt t o move anyone who has fallen as a result o f electric shock - except t o place them in the recovery position. Wrap them in a blanket o r coat to keep them w a r m until they can move. Once the person can move, treat their electrical b u m s by reducing the heat of the injury under slowly running c o l d water. T h e n apply a dry dressing and seek medical advice.

2 The mouth-toll ose procedure Clear the mouth of tood or loose dentures. Lay the person on his o r her back anil carefully tilt the head back by raising the chin. This prevents the victim's tongue blocking the airway and may in itself be enough t o restart the person's breathing. If it doesn't succeed in d o i n g so quickly, fry more direct methods o f artificial ventilation.

:

Reviving a baby If the victim is a baby o r small child, cover both the nose and the mouth at the same time with your o w n mouth and proceed as for moiith-to-moiith ventilation (see below, left), but breathe every three seconds.

Tip the head back to open the airway.

To give artificial ventilation lo a small chilli, cover the nose and mouth.

Mouth-to-mouth

Recovery position

Keeping the victim's nostrils closed by p i n c h i n g t h e m between t h u m b a n d forefinger, cover the m o u t h with your o w n , m a k i n g a seal all a r o u n d (1). B l o w firmly and l o o k for signs o f the chest rising. Remove your lips and allow the chest to fall. Repeat this procedure, breathing r h y t h m i c a l l y i n t o the m o u t h every six seconds. After ten breaths, phone the emergency services. T h e n continue w i t h the a r t i f i c i a l ventilation till normal breathing resumes or expert help arrives t o take over.

O n c e breathing has started again, put the victim in the recovery position. Turn him o r her face down with the head turned sideways and tilted tip slightly. T h i s keeps the airway open and w i l l also prevent vomit being inhaled if the person is sick. Lift one leg out from the body and support the head by placing the person's left hand, palm d o w n , under his o r her cheek. Keep rhc casualty w a r m with blankets until help arrives.

* ~ SEE ALSO: Bathmom safety 69

Isolating the victim If a person sustains an electric shock, turn off the supply of electricity immediately, either at the consumsr unit or at a socket (1). If this is not possible, pull the victim fiee with a dry towel, or knock their hand Iree ol the electrical equipment [21 with a piece ol wood or a broom.

Place the victim on his or Her side with the bead turned sideways and one teg out from the body.

Glossary Adaptor A device that LS used to connect more than one appliance to a socket outlet.

Cistern A water-storage t a n k such as found in the roof of a house.

ITFE Polytetrafluorethylenc - used to make tape for sealing threaded p l u m b i n g fittings.

Airlock

D r a i n cock T a p f r o m which a p l u m b i n g system o r single appliance is d r a i n e d .

Rising main T h e pipe w h i c h supplies water under m a i n s pressure, usually to a storage cistern in the roof.

Economy 7 A n Electricity C o m p a n y Scheme which a l l o w s you to charge storage heaters and heat water at less than h a l f the generalpurpose rate.

Septic t a n k A sewage-storage t a n k , s i m i l a r to a cesspool, but the waste is treated to render it harmless before it is discharged u n d e r g r o u n d o r into a local waterway.

A blockage in a pipe caused by a trapped bubble of air. Appliance A functional piece o f e q u i p m e n t connected to the p l u m b i n g - a basin, sink, bath ere. Back-si p h i mage T h e s i p h o n i n g of part of a p l u m b i n g system caused by the failure of mains pressure. Balanced flue A d u c t i n g system which a l l o w s a heating appliance, such as a boiler, to draw' fresh air f r o m , and discharge gases t o , the outside of a b u i l d i n g . Bore

bloat valve A water inlet which is closed by the action of a floatoperated a r m when the water in a cistern reaches the required level. Earth A c o n n e c t i o n between an electrical c i r c u i t a n d the earth (ground).

1 lollow p.ii t of a pipe in-11JJ>,_-_ Burr Rough raised edge left o n a metal workpiece after c u t t i n g or filing. Cap-nut T h e nut used to tighten a fitting onto pipework. Cesspool A covered or buried t a n k for the c o l l e c t i o n and storage of se«age. Chase T h e groove cut in masonry to accept a pipe o r cable. Or To cut such grooves. C i r c u i t breaker A special switch installed in a c o n s u m e r unit to protect an i n d i v i d u a l circuit. Should a fault occur, the circuit breaker w i l l switch off automatically. Consumer unit A box, situated near the meter, which contains the fuses of M C B s protecting all the circuits. It also houses the m a i n i s o l a t i n g switch that cuts the power to the whole b u i l d i n g .

Fuse A protective device c o n t a i n i n g a thin wire that is designed to melt at a given temperature caused by an excess flow of current o n a circuit. Gully T h e o p e n end of a drainagesystem at g r o u n d level, c o n t a i n i n g a water-filled trap. Head T h e height of the surface of water above a specific p o i n t - used as a measurement of pressure; for e x a m p l e , a head of 2 m . H o p p e r head T h e funnel-shaped end of a drainage pipe that receives the discharge f r o m other waste pi pes. I m m e r s i o n beater A n electrical element designed to heat water in a storage cylinder. O v e r f l o w pipe A drainage pipe designed to discharge water w h i c h has risen above its intended level w i t h i n a cistern.

Shoe T h e c o m p o n e n t f o r m i n g the lower end of a vertical drainage pipe and w h i c h t h r o w s water clear of the w a l l i n t o an o p e n gully. Stopcock Valve w h i c h closes a pipe to present the passage of water. Storage heater A space-heating device that stores heat generated by cheap nightrate electricity, then releases it d u r i n g the f o l l o w i n g day. Supplementary bonding T h e c o n n e c t i n g to earth of exposed metal appliances and pipework within a bathroom or kitchen. T h c r mostat A device w h i c h m a i n t a i n s a heating system at a constant temperature. Trap A bent section of p i p e w o r k , c o n t a i n i n g s t a n d i n g water CO prevent the passage of n o x i o u s sewer gases. Water closet - W C A lavatory flushed by water. Water h a m m e r V i b r a t i o n caused by fluctuating water pressure w i t h i n a p l u m b i n g system. W i r i n g Regulations A code of professional practice laid d o w n by the I n s t i t u t i o n of Electrical F.nginners.

Index Page numbers in italics refer to photographs and illustrations.

buffing mop 79; 79 burr 81 Bylaw 30 kit 49

ABS (plastic) 26 adaptors metal pipe 20; 20 plastic pipe 24; 24 adjustable cutler 49; 49 air luck caring 9 air separator 61 anti-siphon devices 47 appliance 81 artificial ventilation 80 auger drain 74; 74 use of 17 W C 74; 17, 74

B back-siphonage 47 balanced Sue 81 basin fixing 33-4 removing 33 types 31 bathroom heaters 71 bathrooms, safety in 6° baths access to 35 fittings 36 installing 36 plumbing 16; 36 removing 36 renovating enamel 35 supporting plastic 35 types 3J bath/shower mixer 38; 3fi Belmoot valve 62 bending spring 23, 76; 23 bend' metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 bib tap 20 replacing washer 10 bidet installing 43; 43 types 4.1; 43 bleed valve 61 blind riveier 77; 77 boilers maintenance (50 servicing schemes 60 types 54 ventilating 54 bonding, supplementary 69-70 bore 81 bottle trap 16 branch pipe clearing 16 installing 46 bra zing 77

capillary joints 20; 20 cap-nut 20, 81 east-iron pipes 19 central heating boilers see boilers control valves 65; 65 controls 57; 57 corrosion inhibitor 59 draioing and filling 59; one-pipe systems 53 problems 58 pumps 64; 64 system fault finder 58 wet 53 centre punch 74; 74 ceramic-disc tap .12; ¡2 cesspool 18; 18 chain-link cutter 75; 75 chase 81 circuits 79 circuit breaker 81 circulating pump 64 cisterns 81

gas-fired boilers 54; ¡4 maintenance 60 servicing schemes 60 gate valve S, 20

drainage 47; 47 installing 46; 46 drainage systems 6, 7 drain-cleaning equipment 74; 74 drain cock 20

maintenance 11 gland nut 62; 62 gland packing II; II gravity-fed shower 41 gully IS, 17,81; 17

draining plumbing system S drain rods 18,74; IS, 74 drains

H

responsibility 15 rodding 18.74; IK. 74 drills 76

hacksaw 74-5; 74, 75 head (water) 81 heaters

c 0

cold-water srorage 8, 49 installing 49; 49 WC28 cold chisel 75; 75 cold-water cistern, draining 8 compression joints making 22; 22 metal 20; 20 plastic 25; 25 connections, making copper to lead 23; 23 copper to steel 21 plastic to metal Z5; 25 steel to plastic 22; 22 waste to soil pipe 34; 14 connecrors metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 consumer unit 68, 81 control valve 65; 6* convectors 56 copper pipes 19 corner basin .11 corrosion inhibitor 59-60 counter-top basio 31; U c l ' V C (plastic) 24 Croydon-parrem valve II cylinder, hot water 50-1; 50, 51

desealiog 59-60 diaphragm valves 13 adjustment 14

replacement 13; ¡3 direct-fired water heaters 52 direct systems (plumbing) 67 dishwasher

earth bonding 6 Economy 7 scheme 73 elbows metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 Electrical Regulations 6 electric-shock treatment 80; no electric shower 41 electro chemical action 19 emergency repairs 9 emery cloth 79 emery paper 79 end-feed joints 21; 21 cpoxy puny (for repairs) 9 expansion, allowing for 27

fault finder, heating system 58 files 78; 78 fittings metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 flanges side entry 42; 42 Surrey 42; 42 flap valve, replacing 12; 12 float-arm adjustment 14; 14 float replacement 14 float valve 81; 13 changing 14 closing 8 renovating 13, 14 types 13 flood prevention 47 flux soldering 76 fro7.cn pipes, thawing 9; 9 fuse 81

bathroom 71 fan-assisted 56 I oca tiog 56 storage 81 wiring 71 hole saw 49 hopper head 17, 81 hose clips 8 hot-air gun 77; 77 ho I-water cylinder draining 8 replacing 50 hot-water systems 50-3; 51, 53 hydraulic pump 16.74; (6, 7j

I IEF. Regulations see Wiring Regulations immersion heater 72-3,81; 72,73 indirect systems (plumbingl 6: 7 inspection chamber 15; 15 integral-ring joints 21; 21 interceptor trap 15 clearing 18; 18 inverted pipe loop 59; 59 iron pipes 19; 19

joints

capillary 20; 20 compression 20, 22, Ï6; 20, 22, 26 dismantling 25 metal 20; 20 plastic 24-6; 24 push-fit 25-6; 25,26 soldered 21; 21

fused connection units 72; 72

kitchen laps 44; 44

galvanized steel pipes 19; 19 garden tap 48; 4ft gas torch 21,77; 21, 77

lead pipes 19, 23; 19 lever, patching 9; 9 lever-head lap 32; 32

M main switch equipment marking tools 74 measuring tools 74 metal bender) 76 metal-eutiing tools 74, 75 miniature valve 8: X miser laps 11,32; 32 M u P V C (plastic) 26

N nailed pipes 9 noisy cistern, curing 14 non-rising spindle tap 32; 32

0 oil-fired boilers maintenance 60 servicing schemes 6U types 54 olive 20; 22 O-ring seal 11; U overflow' pipe 81 overflow, preventing 47; 47 over-rim supply bidet 43; 43

P PB (plastic) 24 PP (plastic) 26 PTFE tape 11, 22, 81 PVC (plastic) 21 pan connector 29; 29 pedestal basin 31; 31 pillar tap 10; 10 pipe bender 23, 76; 23 pipe cutting 21; 21 pipe ioints 20; 20 pipe runs concealing 31; 51 pipes bending 23; 23 draining 8 metal 19; 19 plastic 24, 26; 24, 26 sizes 19 plastic pipes bending 24 joining 25, 27 joints and fittings 25-7 plastics, types of 24, 26 pliers 79; 79 plumbing, concealing 31, 40 Plumbing Regulations 6 plumbiog system draining 9 refilling 9 plunger 16, 74; 16, 74 Ports mouth-pat tern valve 13; 13 power showers 39 installing 42; 42

programmers 57; 57 pump-assisted shower 39 pump servicing 64 push-fit joints 25-7; 26, 27

R radiators 55; 55 bleeding filj 61 mounting 63; 63 positioning 56 removing 61; 61 replacing 63 radiator valve 62; 62 recessed basin 31; 31 recovery position 80 repairs, emergency 9 reseating tool 79; 79 re verse-pressure tap 10 rim-supply bidet 43; 43 rising main 81 rising-spindle tap 32; 32 riveter 77; 77 rodding points IS room heaters 56 roomstats see room thermostats room thermostats 57; 57 round baths 35 rule, steel 74; 74

s safety, bathroom 69 saws 74-7; 74, 75 .scriber 74; 74 septic tank 18,81; 18 service pipe 81 shaver socket 71; 71 sheet-metal cutter 75; 75 shower computer-coo trolled 39; 39 drainage 37 enclosing 40-1; 40, 41 installing 41-2; 41,42 instantaneous 38, 41; 38, 41 selecting 37 types 37 water requirements 37 wiring 71; 71 shower cubicle 40, 41 shower miser decks 32 shower mixers 38; 38 shower trays 40; 41 shrouded-head tap 10; ¡0 single-stack drainage system 15; /5 sink accessories 44; 44 clearing 16 installing 45; 45 types 44; 44 sink trap 26 siphonic pan 28 skirting coovector 56; 56 slip coupling 65; 65

small-bore waste system 30; 30 snips 75; 75 soil pipe cutting 29; 29 unblocking 17; 17 soil waste 34 solar heating 52; 52 soldering 76-7; 76, 77 joints 21 solid-fuel boilers 54; 54 maintenance 60 tOrrent-weld joints 27; 27 spanners 77; 77 split pipes 9 spraybeads 39 spring dividers 74; 74 stainless-steel pipes 19; l y stopcock 11, 81; 24 storage heaters 68, 81 storage tanks 49 Switched coooection unit 72; 72

T tanks 49 storage 49 plumbing 49 laok cutter 49; 49 lapconoector 24 taps draining 8 fitting basin 33 fittiog bath 36 kitchen 44; 44 mechanisms 32; 32 repairing 10 replacing 33 types 10, 32; 32 tees metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 thawing frozen pipes 9; 9 thermal-norc cylinder 37,51; 37,51 thermostatic mixer 38 thermostatic radiator valve 57; 57 thermostats 57, 81 timer 57 tins nips 77 tool kit 74 traps 81 clearing 16 compression joints 26; 26 shallow 37; 37 types 16; 16 try square 74; 74 tube benders 76; 76 tube cutter 21, 75; 21, 75 tubular trap 16; 16 two-pipe drainage system 15; 15

u undcrlluor heating 66 installing 67 unvemed cylinders 51; 5/

V valves adding extra 8 appliance 46 bleed 61 leaking 62 radiaror 62 self-bore 46 types 8 zone control 57; 57 vented hot-water cylinder 50; SO vice, engineers' 75; 75

w W C see water closet wall-hung hasin 31; 31 wash basin see basin washdowo pan 28, 79; 79 washer, replacing 10, 13; 10, 13 washing machines 46-7; 46,47 waste-disposal units 45; 45 waste pipes, cleansing 16; 16 plastic 26 waste system 6 small-bore 30; 30 water closet 81 water-closet auger 17, 74; 17, 74 water-closet cistero 8, 12-14; 12, 13,14 water-closet pan 28; 28 unblocking 17; 17 water-closet, replacing 28 water-closet suile 28-30; 2*, 30 installing 30; 30 water hammer 6,14, 81 water heater, instantaneous 52; 52 water heating, night rate 73 Water Regulations 6 water softeners 48 weeping joints, repairing 21, 22, 25, 27; 25,27 sver ceniraI-heating system 53; 53 svire brush 79; 79 wire wool 79 Wiring Regulations 6, 39, 69, 81 woodworking tools 79 wrenches 78; 78

Y yard gully 17; 17

z

tone control valve 57; 57 (ones, bathroom 70

omplete Plumbing & Central Heating

contains the most detailed, comprehensive and up-to-date advice available on home plumbing and central heating. on has been extensively rewritten to include information on all new products, techniques and regulations. in

Whether you're fixing a leaking tap or installing an entire central heating system, this book contains all the information you need to get the job done safely and with the minimum of fuss.

Contents include: >AIRS • TAPS, SINKS AND KITCHEN APPLIANCES • TOILETS, BATHS AND SHOWERS • BOILERS AND RADIATORS • IDENTIFYING FAULTS AND MAINTENANCE • SAFETY TIPS • TOOLS FOR THE JOB With over 400 illustrations and photographs, and clear step-by-step instructions, Collins Complete Plumbing

& Central Heating will help turn your good intentions into a job well done.

UK £8.99"

ISBN

0-00-7161.41-6