Anithing But Basic Leggings [2022 ed.]

Table of contents :
Anything But Basic Women's Leggings Instructions Revised 2022
Anything But Basic Leggings PLUS A4
Anything But Basic Leggings MISSES A4

Citation preview

S IS L A S ES D I E & S P LU M

Women’s ABB Leggings BEGINNER LEGGINGS BY DIBY.CLUB

0.5/5 DIFFICULTY

PDF LAYERS FEATURE

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

NO TRIM

INCLUSIVE SIZING

PDF PATTERN

CUSTOM FIT TUTORIALS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Before You Start 1 Find Your Size 2 Pick Your Options 5 What You Need to Make This (fabric and notion requirements)

7

How It Will Fit (finished garment measurements)

9

Prepare Your Pattern 11 Grading Between Sizes 12 Adjusting for Height 15

Legging Construction

17

Typical Rise Adjustments

21

Inspire Someone Else 26 Annexes Pattern to Print - Plus Size Pattern to Print - Misses Size

COPYRIGHT ©2018 DIBY CLUB, LLC | HTTPS://DOITBETTERYOURSELF.CLUB All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods withou the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission, email [email protected] with the subject “Copyright Permissions Request”

BEFORE YOU START Please be environmentally conscious. View this ebook on your device and print as little as possible.

ARE YOU PRETTY NEW TO SEWING CLOTHES? We are so happy to be a part of your journey! This ebook includes everything you need to enjoy your sewing time. If you need some help with the basics, check out our online guide to learning how to sew.

IS THIS YOUR FIRST PDF PATTERN? This pattern is made with a no-trim layout, so you won’t need to trim the edge of your papers to assemble the pattern. Simply follow the guides printed on the pages. Not sure how? Check out this article for a full tutorial or watch the video below.

WATCH THE PDF PATTERN VIDEO

Get ready to say

“YEP, I MADE THAT.”

HOW TO PRINT ONLY THE SIZES YOU NEED This pattern is equipped with a layers option. This means you are able to print specific sizes from the pattern. To use the layers feature, open your document in Adobe Acrobat Reader. Expand your layers by going to View > Navigation Panels > Layers. From here you can select which layers you’d like to view and/or print. Read the article for a full tutorial.

NEED SOME BUDDIES TO SEW WITH?

TIPS FOR PRINTING SUCCESSFULLY

Connect with our community in our Facebook Group and get the support you need!

• Always print using Adobe Acrobat Reader. You can download it for free here. • Always set your “Scaling” to either “Actual Size” or “100%”. • Always measure the “Test Square” on your pattern to make sure the pattern printed at the proper scale.

©

2018

1

FIND YOUR SIZE Do not cut your store size. Use the measurements below to find the right size(s).

1. HAVE SOMEONE MEASURE YOU AT THESE PLACES While it’s tempting to measure yourself, it’s more accurate to have a helper measure you.

MEASURE AROUND THE BODY Upper Bust - Directly under the armpit Full Bust - The fullest part of the bust

MEASURE FROM TOP-TO-BOTTOM Side Waist - Vertical distance from armpit to the waist

Waist - The narrowest part of the waistline High Hip - Around hip bones where a traditional waistband would sit at midrise Full Hip - The fullest part of the hip

Arm Length Measured from tip of shoulder bone to wrist with arm bent 90 degrees.

Thigh - Midpoint between crotch and knee Knee - The center of the knee cap Calf - The widest part of the lower leg

2. SAVE YOUR MEASUREMENTS

Inseam - Vertical distance from the midpoint of the crotch to the ball of the ankle

Download your personalized size chart printable to have your measurements on hand for future patterns.

TIPS FOR GETTING THE PERFECT MEASUREMENTS Proper tools - Use a cloth tape measure to take your measurements. Proper stance - Stand with your feet shoulder width apart, shoulders back with good posture.

©

2018

2

3. COMPARE YOUR MEASUREMENTS TO THE SIZE CHART & CIRCLE WHAT SIZES YOU FIT INTO FOR EACH LOCATION (metric size charts on the next page) You will likely measure into multiple sizes. No biggie! We’ll teach you how to handle that soon.

WOMEN’S MISSES SIZES (INCHES) 00

0

2

4

Upper Bust 31 3/4 32 3/4 33 1/2 34 1/4 Full Bust

31

32

Waist

24

25

High Hip

33

34

6

8

35

36

35 1/4 36 1/4

25 3/4 26 1/2 27 1/4

28

10

37 1/4 38 3/4

34

35

Mid-Thigh

18 1/2

19

Calf

12

36

37

19 1/4 19 3/4

12 1/2 12 3/4

13

14

44

41

42 3/4 44 1/2

46

30

31 3/4 33 1/2 35 1/2

37

39

38

39 1/2

41

42 1/2

44

45 1/2

47

48 3/4

24

25

26

15

15 1/2

16

16 1/2

28

30

32

34

36

50

51 1/2

53

54 1/2

56

55

57

59

61

63

39 1/4

20

20 1/2 21 1/2 22 1/4 23 1/4 14

20

41 1/4 42 3/4

39 1/2

41

18

40

38

13 1/2 13 3/4

16

38

29 1/2 30 1/2 31 1/2 32 3/4 33 3/4 34 3/4 36 1/4

Full Hip

12

14 1/2

42 3/4 44 1/2

WOMEN’S PLUS SIZES (INCHES) 14 Upper Bust Full Bust

40

16

18

41 1/2 41 3/4

20 44

41 1/2 43 1/2 45 1/4 47 1/4

Waist

36

38

40

42

High Hip

44

46

48

50

Full Hip Mid-Thigh Calf

45 1/2 47 1/2 49 1/4 51 1/4 24

25

26

15 3/4 16 1/4 16 3/4

22

24

26

45 1/2 46 3/4 48 1/4 49

51

53

44 1/4 46 1/4 48 1/2 50 3/4

53

55 1/4 57 1/2 59 3/4 62 1/4 64 1/2 66 1/2

52

53 3/4

56

58

60

53

55

57

59

61

27

27 3/4 28 3/4

17

17 1/2

18

30 18 1/2

63

30 3/4 31 3/4 32 3/4 19

19 1/2

20

65

67

34

35

20 1/2

21

STANDARD MEASUREMENTS The following measurements are the same for all sizes: Total Height – 5’ 5” Measure from the crown of the head to the floor, taken while standing up straight and without shoes.

©

2018

Sleeve Length – 23” Inseam – 28 1/2” to ankle bone (30 1/2” to floor)

3

WOMEN’S MISSES SIZES (CM) 00 Upper Bust 80 1/2

0

2

4

6

8

10

83

85

87

89

81

84

86

89

92

96

12

14

16

18

20

101

105

109

112

99

104

108

113

116

91 1/2 94 1/2 98 1/2

Full Bust

79

Waist

61

63 1/2 65 1/2

67

69

71

76

80 1/2

85

90

94

99

High Hip

75

77 1/2

80

83

86

88

92

96 1/2

100

104

109

113

Full Hip

86

89

91

94

96 1/2

100

104

108

112

116

119

124

Mid-Thigh

47

48

49

50

51

52

54 1/2 56 1/2

59

61

63 1/2

66

32

33

34

35

35 1/2

37

38

39

40 1/2

42

Calf

30 1/2 31 3/4

WOMEN’S PLUS SIZES (CM) 14

16

18

20

22

24

26

28

30

32

34

36

Upper Bust

101

105

106

111

115

119

122

127

131

134

138

142

Full Bust

105

110

114

120

124

129

134

139

144

150

155

160

Waist

91

96 1/2

101

106

111

117

123

129

134

140

146

151

High Hip

111

116

122

127

132

136

142

147

152

158

164

169

Full Hip

115

120

125

130

134

140

144

150

155

160

165

170

Mid-Thigh

61

63 1/2

66

68 1/2

70

73

76

78

80 1/2

83

86

89

Calf

40

41

42.5

43

47

48

49 1/2 50 1/2

52

53

44 1/2 45 1/2

STANDARD MEASUREMENTS The following measurements are the same for all sizes: Total Height – 165 cm Measure from the crown of the head to the floor, taken while standing up straight and without shoes.

©

2018

Sleeve Length – 58.4 cm Inseam – 72.5 cm to ankle bone (77.5 to floor)

4

PICK YOUR OPTIONS So many great choices! We’re not sure how you’re going to pick. CHOOSE THE OPTIONS YOU WANT TO SEW The Anything But Basic Leggings comes with several design options! Review them below and decide which one you would like to sew so we can tell you how much fabric you need and what pages to print.

4 LENGTHS Ankle // Capri // Knee Length // Mini

Ankle WAISTBAND HEIGHTS Regular // High Waist

Capri Knee Length

Mini

©

2018

Pattern Options 5

PRINT THE CORRESPONDING PAGES Save some paper by printing only the pages you need using these charts.

PRINTING GUIDES US LETTER

PRINTING GUIDES A4

This chart is for US Letter size pattern piece pages.

This chart is for A4 size pattern piece pages.

MISSES

PLUS

All Options Must Print (Includes Mini)

1-2, 4-5, 9-11, 13-15

1-3, 6-8, 13-15, 18-20

Knee Length

6-7

Capri Length

©

MISSES

PLUS

All Options Must Print (Includes Mini)

1-2, 5-7, 10, 13-14

1, 3-5, 8-10, 1113, 16-18

9-12

Knee Length

8-9

14-15

3, 6-8

4-5, 9-12, 16-17

Capri Length

3-4, 8-9, 11-12

6, 14-15

Ankle Length

3, 6-8, 12-13

4-5, 9-12, 16-17

Ankle Length

3-4, 8-9, 11-12, 15-16

2, 6, 14-15

Waistband

Sizes 00-4: 16-17 Sizes 6-20: 16-18

Sizes 14-24: 21-23 Sizes 26-36: 21-24

Waistband

-

Sizes 14-22: 20-22 Sizes 24-36: 20-23

2018

Pattern Options 6

WHAT YOU NEED We’ll spell out everything you need to make this project a success. YOU NEED THIS KIND OF FABRIC You will want to use knit fabric for the Basic Leggings that stretches from side-to-side by at least 50% and stretches up and down at least 50%. We recommend using quality knit that has good recovery. Make sure your fabric “bounces back” easily when it’s

stretched so your leggings don’t sag throughout the day.

If you don’t know how to measure stretch percentage, see this article. Don’t worry, it’s super easy.

GET THIS MUCH OF IT Don’t forget to get some test fabric for your first version. It is always a best practice to sew any new pattern with inexpensive tester fabric first to nail down your Custom Fit Adjustments.

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS YARDS This chart is calculated for 60” wide knits and recorded in number of yards required.

©

MISSES 00 - 20

PLUS 14 - 36

Mini

5/8

Sizes 14-24: 1 Sizes 26-36: 1 1/8

Knee

3/4

Capri Ankle

2018

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS METERS This chart is calculated for knits measuring 150 cm wide and recorded in number of meters required. MISSES 00 - 20

PLUS 14 - 36

Mini

.57

Sizes 14-24: .91 Sizes 26-36: 1.03

Sizes 14-24: 1 1/4 Sizes 26-36: 1 1/2

Knee

.69

Sizes 14-24: 1.14 Sizes 26-36: 1.37

1

Sizes 14-24: 1 3/8 Sizes 26-36: 2 1/8

Capri

.91

Sizes 14-24: 1.26 Sizes 26-36: 1.93

1 1/4

Sizes 14-24: 1 3/8 Sizes 26-36: 2 1/8

Ankle

1.14

Sizes 14-24: 1.26 Sizes 26-36: 1.93

Pattern Options 7

GET MOTIVATED TO START! Here are a few different styles of our Basic Leggings pattern.

Capri Length

Mini Length

Ankle Length

MAKE A STATEMENT Complete your handmade masterpiece! Make it an outfit with one of our favorite coordinating patterns: The Mae Poncho The Claiborne Ruffle Top

©

2018

Pattern Options 8

HOW IT WILL FIT The finished garment measurements help you custom fit your garment just the way you like. REVIEW THE FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS (metric charts on the next page) Remember to use the size chart to choose your size. This chart should only be used to help custom fit your correct size for your unique shape.

WOMEN’S MISSES SIZES (INCHES) 00 Waist

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

20 3/8 21 1/8 21 7/8 22 5/8 23 1/2 24 1/4 26 1/8 27 7/8 29 5/8 31 1/2 33 1/4 35 1/8

Full Hip

29 5/8 30 3/8 31 1/4

Knee

11

Ankle

5 7/8

32

11 3/8 11 1/2 11 7/8 6

6 1/4

6 3/8

32 3/4 33 1/2 35 1/4

37

38 3/4 40 1/2 42 1/4

44

12

12 3/8

13

13 3/8

14

14 1/2

15

15 5/8

6 5/8

7

7 1/2

7 5/8

8

8 3/8

8 5/8

9

30

32

34

36

Ankle Length Inseam

27 1/8

Capri Length Inseam

20

Knee Length Inseam

10 1/4

Mini Length Inseam

2

WOMEN’S PLUS SIZES (INCHES) 14 Waist

18

20

22

24

26

28

29 5/8 32 7/8 36 1/8 39 3/8 42 5/8 45 7/8 48 1/8 50 1/4 52 1/2 54 3/4 56 7/8 59 1/8

Full Hip

39 5/8 42 3/8 45 1/4

Knee

14

Ankle

8

48

14 7/8 15 5/8 16 3/8 8

8 3/8

8 5/8

50 3/4 53 5/8 17

56

18

58 3/8 60 3/4 63 1/8 65 1/2 67 7/8

18 3/4 19 3/8 20 1/4

8 7/8

21

21 3/4 22 1/2

9

Ankle Length Inseam

27 1/4

27 1/2

28

Capri Length Inseam

20 1/8

20 3/8

20 3/4

Knee Length Inseam

10 1/4

10 1/2

10 5/8

Mini Length Inseam

©

16

2018

2

Finished Garment Measurements 9

WOMEN’S MISSES SIZES (CENTIMETERS) 00

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

Waist

51.6

53.6

55.4

57.4

59.7

62.2

66.3

70.6

75.2

80

84.5

89.2

Full Hip

75.2

77

79.4

81.3

83.2

85.1

89.5

94

98.4

102.9

107.3

111.8

Knee

27.9

28.6

29.3

29.9

30.6

31.3

32.7

34

35.4

36.8

38.2

39.6

Ankle

14.7

15.3

15.8

16.3

16.9

17.4

18.3

19.2

20.1

21

21.9

22.8

Ankle Length Inseam

68.8

Capri Length Inseam

50.8

Knee Length Inseam

26

Mini Length Inseam

5.1

WOMEN’S PLUS SIZES (CENTIMETERS) 14

16

18

20

22

24

26

28

30

32

34

36

Waist

75.2

83.3

91.7

99.8

108.2

116.3

122.2

127.6

133.4

139.1

144.3

150.1

Full Hip

100.6

107.4

114.9

121.9

128.9

136.1

142.2

148.1

154.3

160.3

166.4

172.2

Knee

35.5

37.5

39.5

41.5

43.5

45.5

47.4

49.4

51.3

53.3

55.2

57.2

Ankle

20.1

20.7

21.2

21.7

22.3

22.8

Ankle Length Inseam

69.2

69.9

71.1

Capri Length Inseam

51.1

51.6

52.7

Knee Length Inseam

26

26.7

26.9

Mini Length Inseam

5.1

Bodice Length is measured from the top of the bodice shoulder to the finished hemline of the shirt. NOTE: Knit garments utilize the stretch of the fabric with negative ease. Some finished garment measurements may be smaller than your body measurements.

©

2018

Finished Garment Measurements 10

PREPARE YOUR PATTERN You are 100% unique and your clothes should be too. Learn how to do that with confidence. FIGURE OUT WHICH CUSTOM FIT ADJUSTMENTS APPLY TO YOU While there may still be some adjustments you want to make after you sew your garment, there are many things we can adjust before we even start. (Saving you some seam ripping and wasted fabric. Woo hoo!) See what applies to you by anwsering the following questions.

1

DO YOU FIT INTO MULTIPLE SIZES? If you answered yes, you will want to use the grading tutorial.

2

ARE YOU TALLER OR SHORTER THAN 5’ 5”? If you answered yes, you will want to use the height adjusting tutorial.

3

IS YOUR FIRST PAIR OF PANTS? You may need to reference the rise adjustments in the end of this tutorial. Rise adjustments are difficult to catch before you start, but are very simple and worth the effort. After you make your first pair fit check everything with the rise adjustment tutorials in the back of the book.

RELAX, WE’LL WALK YOU THROUGH THEM STEP-BY-STEP No need to worry. We’ve included step-by-step tutorials for all of these so you don’t have to waste time figuring it out on your own. Just continue to the next pages.

DON’T YOU DARE SKIP THIS SECTION Don’t waste your time and fabric making something that doesn’t fit you well. You are capable of making this fit you better than anything you could ever find in a store.

©

2018

11

GRADING BETWEEN SIZES For when you measure into multiple sizes.

Your measurements may fall into several sizes on the size chart. Not a problem! Let’s transition between your sizes with grading. EXAMPLE MEASUREMENTS The chart to the left shows where my measurements fall on the size chart. You can see that they span between several sizes. We will use this for our grading tutorial below.

High Hip (6)

KNOWING WHERE TO GRADE Use the markings written on the pattern pieces to locate the high hip, full hip, thigh, knee, calf, and ankle. Mark sizes you fit into at each location with a dot. Use the finished garment measurements to check the tightness in your ankle or knee if you are concerned that you may fit outside of a smooth grading path between your thigh and calf. Otherwise, you can just grade smoothly between the thigh and the calf and continue your calf size down to the ankle.

Full Hip (8)

Choose the rise point that corresponds with your full hip size.

Thigh (10)

WATCH THE PANT GRADING VIDEO TUTORIAL HERE Knee (8)

Calf (10)

Ankle (6) ©

2018

Grading Your Pants 12

CREATING THE GRADING PATH Mark the locations where your measurements change sizes in the chart onto the pant leg pieces (and any corresponding points on pocket pieces). From here you will simply create smooth transition curves between the dots along the lines like illustrated below. A french curve can be helpful for this part, but not necessary.

Correct

©

2018

Incorrect

Grading Your Pants 13

WHY GRADING MATTERS View the pictures below to see how grading your pants properly can give you a much better fit.

Wearing a size 10 (her average size) for the entire pant

Wearing jeans graded from size 6 to 12 and height adjusted

TIPS FOR GRADING SIZES Use these tips to make grading even easier: Print specific layers - These patterns are made so you can print only the layers you need. Grading is much easier when you are only looking at the few sizes you need to see. Create smooth lines - The one rule above all others is to make sure that you draw your grading line gradually and smoothly as illustrated on the previous page. What to do if you’re between sizes - If you fall between sizes, as a general rule, mark your size location right in between those lines on the pattern. What if your hip through thigh shape is really different than the pattern piece - Don’t worry! Grade as smoothly as possible according to your measurements at this point. After you have sewn your test pair, you will try them on and make final adjustments for the finer details of your beautifully unique shape.

©

2018

Grading Your Pants 14

ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT For when your inseam is longer or shorter than what the pants are drafted for.

Long or short, your legs are fine! Let’s adjust your pants to match.

DO YOU NEED TO ADJUST FOR HEIGHT?

If your inseam is greater or less than 28 1/2”(72.4cm) from crotch to ankle bone you will want to adjust for height.

GRADE FIRST IF YOU NEEDED TO Be sure to get all of your pattern grading done first. If you are unsure how to do this, please refer to the grading tutorial. Pssst! It’s the tutorial right before this one.

FIGURE OUT HOW MUCH YOU NEED TO ADJUST Use the following calculation to find your adjustment amount:

TOTAL ADJUSTMENT AMOUNT: YOUR INSEAM (TO THE ANKLE) – 28.5

©

2018

Adjusting Knit Pants For Height 15

CUTTING & ADJUSTING THE LEGS 1. Cut the legs at the mid-thigh and calf locations.

2. Divide your total adjustment amount by 2. 3. Adjust your pattern pieces by this amount in both locations. If you are removing length you will overlap your pattern pieces. If you are adding length you will separate them.

Mid Thigh Back Leg

Front Leg

Calf

Example of overlapping to shorten

Example of separating to lengthen

TRUING YOUR PATTERN PIECES Now that the pattern is taped back together the lines aren’t matching up. So we need to smooth out these bumps. Simply draw smooth transition lines between your pieces. You’re all done!

©

2018

Adjusting Knit Pants For Height 16

LET’S START SEWING! Let’s sew this together! You’ll never get lost. We’ve got all the tutorials and videos you need right here. LEG CONSTRUCTION

PATTERN PIECES NEEDED

After a couple of pairs, sewing leggings will become your favorite quick-sew project!

(2) Mirrored Front Legs (2) Mirrored Back Legs

1. Lay your matching front legs and back legs over top of each other with the right sides together. Make sure to match up the notches located at the hip and knee of the legs.

(1) Waistband

2. Sew together at the outseam using your preferred stretch stitch and a 3/8” seam allowance.

3. Align your inseams with each other, once again, making sure to match up the notches on the legs. 4. Sew together along the inseam.

Notches aligned

UNSURE WHICH STITCH YOU SHOULD BE USING? Download our

©

2018

stretch stitch cheat sheet.

Notches aligned

17

5. Turn one finished leg right side out and keep the other inside out.

7. Sew the two legs together along the front and back rise. The image below shows this pictured from two angles for clarity.

Front view

Right side out

Side view

Inside out

6. Nest the right side out leg, inside the inside out leg so that right sides are together. 8. Turn your pants inside out and set aside.

Right side out

Inside out

©

2018

18

WAISTBAND ATTACHMENT 1. Take your waistband and fold it across the width with the right sides together. Sew along the raw edge using a stretch stitch.

4. Pin your waistband to the leggings in quarters. Make sure that your notches are matched up with the rise seams.

Notches aligned with rise

2. Fold it down over top of itself so that the right side of the fabric is now visible on both the inside and outside of the waistband.

3. Nest your waistband inside your pants with the raw edges facing up and right sides together.

5. Sew the waistband to the leggings.

Raw edges up

©

2018

19

6. Flip the waistband up and out of the pants.

HEMMING YOUR LEGGINGS 1. Begin with your leggings inside out. Fold the hemline up 1” with the wrong sides together. Then topstitch your hem into place 7/8” up from the edge, making sure to catch the fold.

©

2018

20

TYPICAL ADJUSTMENTS We’ll spell out everything you need to make this project a success.

It is not uncommon to need to make alterations to your pants for your unique shape! Check the following tutorials to help you troubleshoot any fit issues you may be having.

Estimate your adjustment amounts based on the fit of your muslin. Once you have perfected your fit, make the adjustments to your pattern pieces so you know future pairs will fit perfectly!

LEG INSEAM TOO LONG

TOO LONG

GOOD FIT

If you get to the end of construction and wind up with lots of fabric bunching at various places along the leg and baggy knees, you likely forgot to adjust the pattern for your inseam length. Please see the height adjusting section in this e-book for a complete tutorial for this. This adjustment can’t be made after constructing your pants.

CROTCH DEPTH TOO LONG This is indicated by lines radiating downward away from your crotch. The line often accompanies excess fabric in the upper thigh.

FRONT LEG

To fix this, take a little off at the front crotch and gently grade it into the thigh on your front leg pattern piece. Don’t take off more than 1/4” at a time. You will be surprised how much of a difference a little alteration can make! This adjustment can be made after constructing your pants.

©

2018

Troubleshooting Fit

21

CROTCH DEPTH TOO SHORT Whiskers sweeping upward across your hips with creasing at the crotch indicates the need to extend the depth of the front crotch. This fit issue can be accompanied with tightness at the upper thigh. Making the illustrated adjustment will alleviate pulling. Do this a little bit at a time. Start with letting out the front (only) crotch seam allowance 1/4” and go from there to give your pubic bone a little more space.

FRONT LEG

This adjustment can’t be made after constructing your pants.

LET’S JUST SAY IT – CAMEL TOE If your lady bits are getting smashed and you have lines radiating upward away from your crotch an adjustment is needed.

FRONT LEG

To fix this you can deepen the rise of your front crotch. Gently grade it into the rise just below your zipper. Don’t take off more than 1/4” at a time. You will be surprised how much a difference a little alteration can make! This adjustment increases the length of the vertical rise, giving more room for the length of your pubic bone. This adjustment can be made after constructing your pants.

THE CROTCH “CLICK” This is a fit issue that is most commonly diagnosed after wearing your pants around for a day. The physical signs of this one aren’t overtly apparent but are obnoxiously obvious when you’re out and about and you hear that awful click or pop noise with every step. This is from a pubic bone that is set in farther than the pattern is drafted for. To fix it, let out your crotch curve a little bit. If altering post construction, reduce the seam allowance in that area. You may also need to reduce the crotch depth to resolve this issue.

FRONT LEG

This adjustment can be made after constructing your pants. ©

2018

Troubleshooting Fit

22

FULL DERRIÈRE

BACK LEG

If you were blessed with a larger than average booty for your size you may commonly have issues with pants developing stress lines radiating outward from the center of the butt. This is usually only a problem on looser fitting pants or fabric that doesn’t have a lot of stretch. To adjust for this increase the outseam at the hip and the vertical rise length as illustrated. Start with increments of 1/4” and go from there. In most cases this adjustment can’t be made after constructing your pants.

TINY HINEY This is a common alteration that apple shape hips need. If the pant is saggy in the bottom, we need to reduce the vertical rise length and take in the crotch depth a little bit. Start with taking increments of about 1/4” off the back leg and take in these areas more as necessary.

BACK LEG

This adjustment can be made after constructing your pants.

FULL TUMMY If you have a full lower tummy and develop lines radiating downward away from your zipper, an adjustment is needed.

FRONT LEG

You can help alleviate this by increasing the rise. Cut straight down the middle of the front rise and pivot the top piece to add a bit of extra length. Don’t add more than 1/2” at a time. This adjustment can’t be made after constructing your pants.

©

2018

Troubleshooting Fit

23

SWAYBACK If there is excess fabric pooling near the top of your butt a swayback adjustment could solve your issue. To correct this simply scoop a little bit off your back leg rise. Start with 1/4” and increase from there. Do not make any adjustments to the back yoke piece.

BACK LEG

This adjustment can be made after constructing your pants.

WEDGIE / LOW DERRIÈRE

BACK LEG

Is the back rise uncomfortable tight? If your bum is hanging below the rise and you develop horizontal lines just under each cheek you can resolve this issue by scooping the back rise a little deeper. This will give the bum a little more wiggle room. Follow the illustration, adjusting only 1/4” at a time. This adjustment can be made after constructing your pants.

FULL THIGHS Are the thighs uncomfortably tight? If there are lines radiating down diagonally from the upper thigh area you can give yourself a little more room. Simply let out the crotch depth a little bit at a time until they fit comfortably.

BACK LEG

Do this by extending the crotch depth out 1/4” at a time. A little adjustment can go a long way. Be aware that adjusting the pattern this way will add a little room to the back rise of your pant. This adjustment can’t be made after constructing your pants.

©

2018

Troubleshooting Fit

24

THIN THIGHS BACK LEG

FRONT LEG

Do you have excess fabric at the thighs? If so, take a little more seam allowance off the front and back legs from the crotch down through mid thigh. This will reduce your crotch length. If you are happy with how the crotch is currently fitting you can contour your thigh shape to blend into the existing crotch depth at the top. Make this adjustment 1/8” at a time to ensure the legs aren’t over tightened. This adjustment can be made after constructing your pants.

PLUMBER’S CRACK Ok we all know what a plumber’s crack is. That dreaded cool breeze you feel floating around your behind because your pants aren’t high enough in the back. To correct this simply raise your back leg rise. Have someone help you measure how much you’ll want to adjust while wearing your test version.

BACK LEG

This adjustment can’t be made after constructing your pants.

©

2018

Troubleshooting Fit

25

(I knew you could do it...) DID YOU KNOW YOUR JOURNEY CAN INSPIRE SOMEONE ELSE? You are obviously a sewing rockstar, a brave and bold creator, a master of a lost art... but a lot of sewists don’t believe they can be too. Can you help inspire them? Share your finished version in our Facebook Group, to help someone else believe they can do it too.

SHARE YOUR PICS

©

2018

26

A1

ANYTHING BUT BASIC LEGGINGS – PLUS INTERNATIONAL A4

©DIBY Club 2018

3/8” Seam Allowance Included

TESTER

SQUARE 4 CM

1”

ANKLE – 1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

A2 INTERNATIONAL A4

A3 INTERNATIONAL A4

A4 INTERNATIONAL A4

Anything But Basic Leggings – PLUS

BACK LEG ©DIBY Club 2018

3/8” Seam Allowance Included

CUT 2 MIRROR

A5 INTERNATIONAL A4

B1 INTERNATIONAL A4

GRAINLIN

B2 INTERNATIONAL A4

CALF LOCATION

CAPRI – 1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

FULL HIP LOCAT

B3 INTERNATIONAL A4

MID THIGH

THIGH LOCATION

TESTER

LOCATION

SQUARE 4 CM

1”

B4

MINI – 1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

INTERNATIONAL A4

Size 14 Size 16 Size 18 Size 20 Size 22 Size 24 Size 26 Size 28 Size 30 Size 32 Size 34 Size 36

B5 INTERNATIONAL A4

C1 INTERNATIONAL A4

CATION

MINI – 1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

MID THIGH LOCAT

C2 INTERNATIONAL A4

KNEE – 1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

NLINE

C3 INTERNATIONAL A4

KNEE – 1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

C4 CALF LOCATION

GRAINLINE

INTERNATIONAL A4

C5 INTERNATIONAL A4

IP LOCATION

D1 INTERNATIONAL A4

D2 INTERNATIONAL A4

Anything But Basic Leggings – PLUS

FRONT LEG ©DIBY Club 2018

3/8” Seam Allowance Included

CUT 2 MIRROR

FULL HIP L

D3 INTERNATIONAL A4

CAPRI – 1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

D4 INTERNATIONAL A4

ANKLE – 1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

TALL WAISTBAND

E1 SHORT WAISTBAND

FOLD LINE

Anything But Basic Leggings – PLU

WAISTBAND ©DIBY Club 2018

3/8” Seam INTERNATIONAL A4 Allowance Included CUT 1 ON FOLD

ed

GRAINLINE

– PLUS

E2 INTERNATIONAL A4

E3 INTERNATIONAL A4

E4 INTERNATIONAL A4

Anything but Basic Legging - Misses

A1 TESTER

SQUARE 4 CM

1”

INTERNATIONAL A4 The Basic Leggings – MISSES

FRONT LEG ©DIBY Club 2018

3/8” Seam Allowance Included

CUT 2 MIRROR

FU

d

A2 INTERNATIONAL A4

FULL HIP LOCATION

1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

A3 INTERNATIONAL A4

1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

CALF LOCATION

CAPRI – 1” S

A4 INTERNATIONAL A4

ANKLE – 1” S

SHORT WAISTBAND

3/8” Seam Allowance Included

©DIBY Club 2018

WAISTBAND

Anything But Basic Leggings – MISSES

INTERNATIONAL A4

CUT 1 ON FOLD

GRAINLINE

TALL WAISTBAND

A5

FOLD LINE

MINI – 1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

MID THIG

B1 INTERNATIONAL A4

KNEE – 1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

ID THIGH LOCATION

B2 INTERNATIONAL A4

GRAINLINE

B3 INTERNATIONAL A4

1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

B4

KNEE – 1” SI

INTERNATIONAL A4

Size 00 Size 0 Size 2 Size 4 Size 6 Size 8 Size 10 Size 12 Size 14 Size 16 Size 18 Size 20

B5 INTERNATIONAL A4

GRAINLINE

C1

CALF LOCA

CAPRI – 1” SINGLE FOLD HEM INTERNATIONAL A4

LOCATION

C2 INTERNATIONAL A4

ic Leggings – MISSES

K LEG

ub 2018

am Allowance Included

IRROR

UARE

INTERNATIONAL A4

M

C3

” SINGLE FOLD HEM

FULL HIP LOCATION

The Basic L

BAC

©DIBY Club 2

3/8” Seam

CUT 2 MIR

SQU TESTER

C4 INTERNATIONAL A4

4 CM

1”

MINI – 1” SI

MID THIGH LOCATION

ANKLE – 1” SINGLE FOLD HEM

D1 INTERNATIONAL A4

THE BASIC LEGGINGS – MISSES ©DIBY Club 2018

3/8” Seam Allowance Included

D2 INTERNATIONAL A4

D3 INTERNATIONAL A4

D4 INTERNATIONAL A4