Zen River Cookbook: Recipes from a Western Zen Temple

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Zen River Cookbook RECIPES FROM A WESTERN ZEN TEMPLE

TAMARA MYOHO GABRYSCH

FOR MY FAMILY, VAST AND WIDE.

A Zen River Publication. Zen River Oldörpsterweg 3 9981 NL Uithuizen The Netherlands www.zenrivertemple.org Zen River Cookbook. Recipes from a Western Zen Temple. Tamara Myoho Gabrysch. ©Tamara Gabrysch, Zen River Temple 2015. Photographs ©Tamara Gabrysch 2015. Editorial assistance: Cordelia Mukan Mc Kenna and Wynn Seishin Wright. First print edition updated (“Mouth-watering Vegetarian Recipes”) fifth printing (2019). Kindle first edition, 2020 (updated 2021). All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by information storage and retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

These delicious recipes have been created, tested, and compiled by a Zen cook with decades of experience. The colour photos are beautiful and make you want to head for the kitchen and start chopping. It is rare to find a book that helps you cook healthy, tasty food for large groups. An unexpected treat is the discovery that the recipes are interwoven with inspiring Zen teachings. – Jan Chozen Bays, MD, is a Zen master in the White Plum lineage of the late master Taizan Maezumi Roshi. Her many books include Mindful Eating: Free Yourself from Overeating and Other Unhealthy Relationships with Food (Shambhala 2009)

The Zen River Cookbook is the work of a Zen Master. It is filled with flavourful recipes, thoughtful instruction, and beautiful images. This book captures the simplicity and dynamic range of a true Zen kitchen with variety, clarity, and nourishment for the body, mind, and spirit. – Diane Musho Hamilton is an award-winning professional mediator, author, facilitator, and teacher of Zen at Two Arrows Zen and Integral Spirituality. Diane is the author of Everything is Workable: A Zen Approach to Conflict Resolution, (Shambhala, 2013). She is also featured in The Hidden Lamp: Stories from Twenty-Five Centuries of Awakened Women (Wisdom, 2014).

The Zen River Cookbook is a wonderful collection of practical, accessible, creative, and delicious recipes. They lend themselves to the preparation of simple or substantial meals for the family, for a dinner party, or for a large function. This is good food – that it is vegetarian is not an issue. The recipes are well developed, tested over many years in the most demanding conditions, and they are reliable. They also represent the author’s Zen sensibility and illustrate a concern for good nutrition, the environment, minimum waste, and a delight in the delicious! I am eagerly awaiting my own copy of The Zen River Cookbook. – David Scott, internationally published author and journalist specialising in food, travel, and Buddhist practice. His many books include The Three Bowl Cookbook, Explorer Japan (Fodor and the AA), and Simply Zen, Designs for Harmonious Living.

Tamara Myoho Gabrysch is a master Tenzo who generously and joyfully shares her cooking knowledge and love of the Buddha, Dharma, and Sangha in The Zen River Cookbook. I highly recommend this book to anyone who wants to experience the elegance of a Zen kitchen in every meal. There are clear, delicious, and flavourful recipes for every part of the day and for every occasion. Beautiful photographs, along with useful instruction and thoughtful reflections, enhance this comprehensive introduction to the principles and practice of mindful cooking. Retreat cooks will appreciate The Zen River Cookbook as an essential kitchen resource, while home cooks will enjoy Myoho Sensei’s skilled guidance for making delicious meals to delight friends and family. – Julia Kanro Sati, Tenzo, Two Arrows Zen.

Contents

Introduction Preparing to Cook Menus Measuring Spoons A Typical Week Menu Plan 

Contents

2 5 6 7 8

Breakfast Cereal Traditional Porridge Hot Milky Rice Cereal Black Rice Congee Japanese Temple Gruel Semolina / Polenta Indian-Style Rice Cereal Spiced Muesli Soaked Muesli with Apple Granola Brown Rice Cereal Quinoa & Amaranth Porridge Millet Congee Chilled Almond Rice Pudding

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 23 24 25

Brunch & Bread Singing Potatoes Scrambled Eggs Fried Tomatoes Pan-Fried Breakfast Mushrooms Hard-Boiled Eggs Egg Tosties Cornmeal Pancakes Caramel Fudge Sauce Cheese & Green Onion Pancakes Oven Cheese Toast Bread Making Crumpets Plain Crumpets English Muffins Whole Wheat Bread White Rolls Pita Bread Cinnamon Raisin Bread Flour Tortilla

29 30 31 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 44 47 49 51 52 53 54 55 56

Fruits Baked Cinnamon Apple Wedges Spicy Winter Apple Mousse

58 59

Apple Moon Fruit Salad Overripe Spotted Bananas Hot Spiced Apples & Apricots Stuffed Baked Apples Spicy Poached Pears Tropical Melon, Lychee & Mint Compote  Nectarines & Blueberries  Strawberries, Apricots & Bananas  Bananas, Pomegranate, Quark & Yogurt Apple, Pear, Kiwi & Grape Compote Mandarin & Banana with Orange Kissel Lemony Fresh Ginger Pears

60 61 63 65 66 68 69 69 70 71 72 73

Rice & Grains Short Grain Brown Rice Jasmine Rice Basmati Rice Sushi Rice Long Grain Brown Rice Rice & Quinoa Brown & Red Rice Spiced Yellow Rice Brown & Black Rice Spiced White Rice  Couscous Quinoa Jasmine Lemon Rice Millet Bulgur Rice Noodles

78 78 79 79 80 80 81 81 82 83 84 84 85 85 86 86

Main Courses Oven Roasted Vegetables with Tempeh Carrot, Hijiki & Tofu in Tahini Sauce Sesame Stir-Fried Vegetables Cauliflower Coconut Cream Karma Korma Flash Roasted Courgette & Tempeh Black Bean Chocolate Chilli Fresh Tomato Salsa Middle Eastern-Style Minced Soya & Pita Yogurt Garlic Sauce Sweet & Sour with Omelette Strips Roasted Cinnamon Pumpkin Rich Red Pasta Sauce with Lentils Brussels Sprouts with Spicy Peanut Sauce

88 93 95 97 99 100 102 103 105 106 109 111 113

Honey-Roasted Vegetable Chips Pumpkin with Red Curry Sauce Yellow Lentil Curry Dhal with Cumin Seeds Big Fat White Beans in Red, Red Sauce Spanish-Style Saffron Lentils Japanese-Style Braised Vegetables Chickpea Tajine with Mint & Orange Rosemary Mashed Potatoes Mushroom Gravy & Soya Mince Japanese Curry Rice Teriyaki-Style Veggies Sweet Chilli Sauce Crispy Deep Fried Tofu Thai-Style Curry Green Bean & White Miso Sauce Curried Red Lentils Boiling Salted Water

117 119 121 122 124 126 129 131 133 134 137 138 139 140 142 143 144

One Dish Meals Ginger Fried Rice with Vegetables Black Fried Rice Blue Cheese & Rocket Thin Crust Pizza Spinach, Ricotta & Tomato Pasta Ratatouille Vegetarian Pad Thai Tomato & Thai Basil Rice Sesame Pasta Confetti Potato Salad Mock Paella Rice Dish Sun-Dried Tomato Summer Pasta Salad Tamale Pie Sushi Rice Salad Lemony Spaghetti Mac River Burgers Quinoa Salad Spinach Rice Bulgur with Beans & Chilli Quesadilla Enchilada with Chocolate Mole Sauce Enchilada Sauce with Apricots

149 151 152 155 156 159 161 163 164 167 169 171 173 175 177 178 179 180 181 183 184

Condiments & Spreads Gomasio Fried Breakfast Rosemary Onions Red Onion & Bell Pepper Condiment

186 187 188

Sambal Spiced Apple Chutney Mock Aioli Yogurt Garlic Sauce Cucumber Tzatziki Tomato Sesame Fresh Salsa with Sweet Corn Guacamole Sweet Chilli Sauce Yogurt Mint Raita Yogurt Cumin Raita Mock Takuan Pickled Aubergine Salted Cucumber Pickle Pickled Spicy Cabbage Nori Sprinkles Classic Hummus Red Hummus with Roasted Bell Pepper Egg Salad Sandwich Spread Olive & Sun-Dried Tomato Tapenade Shitake Mushroom Pâté Cranberry Orange Sauce Cream Cheese with Green Onions Cream Cheese with Roasted Red Pepper Golden Cabbage

189 190 191 191 192 193 194 195 196 197 197 198 198 198 200 200 201 202 202 203 204 205 207 207 208

Salad & Dressings Pear & Rocket Salad Strawberry Chilli Dressing Lettuce & Daikon Salad Miso Dressing with Ginger & Sesame Carrot & Apple Salad Cashew Nut Dressing with Rosemary  Beetroot Salad Winter Salad Dressing Chicory & Apple Salad Horseradish Cream Spinach & Mushroom Salad Honey Mustard Lemon Dressing Mixed Green Salad with Pomegranate  Lime Mayo Dressing Mango Salad Thai-Style Dressing Mixed Green Salad Walnut Dressing Waldorf Salad

210 210 211 211 212 212 213 213 214 214 215 215 216 216 217 217 218 218 219

Tofu Tahini Dressing Blue Cheese Dressing Apricot Jalapeño Dressing Green Salad Tomato Salad Pineapple Salsa Salad Dressing

219 220 220 220 221 222

Soups Miso Soup with Ginger Jungle Soup Spinach Soup with Chilli & Dill Spectacular Pumpkin Soup Double Mushroom Delight Soup Confetti Corn Chowder Egg Flower Tomato Soup Groningen Mustard Soup with Leek Carrot & Roasted Red Paprika Soup Hot Sour Soup Rue Hérold Pumpkin Soup White Bean, Chilli & Rocket Soup Piquant Red Onion Soup Salmorejo Middle Eastern-Style Lentil Soup Basic Vegetable Stock

225 227 229 231 233 235 239 240 241 243 245 247 249 250 251 252

Cakes & Muffins About Cakes & Cookies Banana Bread Vanilla Drop Scones Shortbread Chocolate Muffin Cake with Chilli & Orange Coffee Cake Coffee Butter Frosting Almond Muffins Orange & Walnut Cake Biscotti Pineapple Coconut Upside Down Cake Quark Cake Apple Shortcake Chocolate Rice Krispie Cakes Chocolate Cornflake Cakes Greedy, Greedy Apple Cake Best-Yet Rice Pudding Cake  Old English Scones Chocolate Tee Wafers

254 257 259 261 263 265 265 267 269 271 273 275 277 279 279 281 283 285 286

Goosnargh Cakes High Energy Granola Bar Apple Crumble Victoria Sponge Cake Rock Cakes Honey & Oatmeal Cookies Trifle  Mandarin Trifle  Natural Fruit Jelly Mock Cream Patience Vla Lemon Cream Frosting Lemon Glaze

287 288 289 291 292 293 294 295 296 296 297 298 298

Kitchen Essentials Equipment Essentials A Note on Beans & Lentils Pressure Cooking Times Substitutions Basic Knife Cuts Vegetable & Fruit Exchanges Dry Measures Exchanges Liquid Measure Exchanges Small Measurement Exchanges  Temperature Conversions Homemade, Nontoxic Surface Cleaner

303 305 306 308 309 309 309 310 310 310 311

Zen Notes Zen Vegetarian Cooking Notes for the Tenzo Oryoki My Journey from There to Here Zen River Temple Acknowledgements About the Author

313 319 322 325 327 328 328

“If the six flavours are not in harmony and three virtues are lacking, then the tenzo is not truly serving the community.” From Zen Monastic Standards. Chanyuan Qinggui (1102).

Introduction

Introduction A Zen master once said, “If you know how to cook, you know how to live, and then you can do anything.” And so this book of recipes hopes to bring together and reflect the silence of meditation, the light of dawn over the altar, the clanking of pans, the sound of chopping knives, the humming of the kitchen vent, the interactions with countless kitchen bodhisattvas, and the anticipation of a delicious meal – all of which have cooked my life for so long. It was never the plan to cook in a Zen temple kitchen. It was never even the plan to study Zen. Art school was my first path followed by an imagined career of painting and a life spent adrift in the turpentined aroma of art studios. How different it turned out to be. It all began quite by accident. My first step was stumbling hesitantly into a Zen retreat at my mother’s house in England and then, one month later, into a Zen centre kitchen in Bar Harbor, Maine, where I was duly pointed to a small pile of onions. There I stood, wondering how on earth does one cut such a small onion with such a big knife? My kitchen skills needed some serious assistance. Even the humble muffin was something I imagined impossibly difficult to make. I thought that such baking ventures of mine would destroy the kitchen and only result in hours of cleaning. (Luckily, I have since learned it is possible to bake without making too much of a mess, I think...) Despite my misgivings, I gradually began helping more frequently in the kitchen with enthusiasm and curiosity. More often than not, the tenzos (cooks) were not necessarily professionals and were also experimenting with the menu. I took notes. The first tenzo I assisted was Anton Tenkei Coppens, who eventually became my husband. He is now the abbot of Zen River Temple, a residential Zen training centre we established together in Uithuizen, which is a small village in the far north of the Netherlands. To him I am sincerely grateful for those initial windows into porridge making, bread baking and onion frying for 40 mouths! As a young and aspiring Zen student, I entered the world of kitchens imagining that vegetarian food must be a rather bland and uninspired affair, so it was fascinating to savour the variety of options served at the Zen centre: soft cornmeal polenta for breakfast with thick, drippy molasses and roasted, ground sesame seeds; sliced apples in hot, spiced apple cider; large batches of curried lentils – smooth, creamy and soupy or strong, nutty and stew-like; carrots strewn with seaweed and tofu; broccoli steamed with soy sauce and tempeh; chickpeas simmered in tomatoes and dried fruit. There, I met fresh ginger for the first time (probably while learning how to make a lentil curry) and could hardly believe we had never met before. Needless to say, my first culinary ventures were imbued with ginger – as many friends from that period will recall.

Looking back, I can see why all those new tastes were so exciting. Whilst growing up surrounded by a rather plain and homey cooking style of the ’50s and ’60s, purity was everything: white flour, white sugar, white sandwiches, white rice – even the potatoes were white and always peeled! Nothing brown or whole wheat as far as the eye could see. As for herbs and spices not much adorned the kitchen cupboard. A solitary container of mixed spice often stood wistfully alongside the salt and pepper, tomato ketchup, and malt vinegar. Our main, midday meals were served at school – the infamous and later fondly remembered school dinners that left many with a tale to tell. School dinners were, in their own ways, good food. They were just incredibly overcooked and lack lustre. Surprisingly, some of those dishes later became the inspiration for cakes, and the flavour of that humble school sausage was the reference point for seasoning tempeh! Also, I must admit that those “dinner ladies”, as the school cooks were called, could make awesome sponge puddings that I have not yet managed to reproduce. They even came with their own complementary custards! Spotted dick was served with white nutmeg custard, chocolate sponge with green mint custard, golden syrup sponge with yellow vanilla custard, and jam slice with pink strawberry custard to name but a few. Coming home from school, however, was more often than not simply met by big “rock cakes,” my mother’s knobbly, crisp-edged, scone-like cakes stuffed with sultanas. Although they were simple, my brothers and sister and I loved them. It was a race to the cake box every time. Yes, the flavour of food was very simple while I was growing up; in my world, taste was a revolution waiting to happen. During those early days in Zen centre kitchens, my culinary world expanded and merged with my artistic background. I slowly discovered that each herb and spice had it’s own propensity to colour, with unique qualities of warmth, coolness, quietude, sparkle, bitterness, sweetness, sharpness, saltiness, lightness or heaviness. I also noticed that each type of grain shared characteristics with paper: paleness, smoothness, nuttiness, earthiness, brightness, or softness. A collection of kitchen knives could be as versatile as a collection of paint brushes. And the first time someone showed me cardamom was a delightful eye opener. How amazing that two small seed pods could transform a humble tin of tomatoes cooked with an ailing carrot and a fading parsnip into an edible meal! Now it was no longer simply a cinnamon stick to play with, but shelves full of new and exotic spices. Everything was new and exciting. I was hooked on a voyage of taste discovery, but also totally clueless as to where it all would lead. A year after cutting that first onion, my teacher, Genpo Merzel, suggested that I tenzo for a three-month Ango (intensive training period) partly just to tease me, I think! Those three months were pivotal in sending me in the direction of pots and pans for a long time to come. And as the years went by, guests began to ask if there was a cookbook in the pipe line, to which the oft-used reply was, “Hmm, I’m working on it.” So finally, after a very long time, here is a modest offering to the infinite world of cookbooks.

In general the combinations of dishes of the main meal is still based on a template that was transmitted by my senior dharma sister and brother Catherine Genno Pages and Michel Genkai Dubois. They are the ones who, way back in the early days of our ventures into meditative cuisine, started preparing three-bowl meals, consisting of carbohydrates, a protein dish and vegetables and/or salad. Of course, without ingredients these recipes would never make it from page to plate, so a big thank you goes to our suppliers. All of our ingredients come from either the small but ever expanding vegetable patch in the Zen River garden or from local markets. Exotic ingredients are often found at the local Asian market and at the big health food store in Groningen, both of which host an infinite variety of grains, dried mushrooms, seaweeds, rice vinegars, tofu, tempeh, sesame oil, palm sugar, jaggery, and soy sauce. A smaller health food store in our local village of Uithuizen is another good source for stocking our pantry with needed supplies. Some of the larger supermarkets often carry interesting ingredients in their “world food” sections, and the “Go-For” often browses the aisles and calls the kitchen with exciting finds. Ah, to buy or not to buy?! As in all life’s affairs, no recipe can be fixed. The success of every dish depends on right time, place, position, and amount. Because these factors change all the time, this book is not intended to provide any hard fast rules. Instead, this is a guide that hopefully allows one to dance with ingredients large and small, loving and respecting even the most humble one. Happy cooking, and may your life go well. Tammy Myoho Gabrysch

Preparing to Cook The taste and satisfaction of vegetarian cooking, I have gradually learned, comes through achieving a balance of colours, shapes, textures, flavours, and smells. It took a while before I began to understand this principle, let alone the added challenge of working with new, weird, wonderful ingredients, and snazzy techniques. I found it helpful to study a few classic Zen texts which, besides illustrating the role of the cook, or tenzo, explained how to create this balance. (An early and famous description of this can be found in Zen master Eihei Dogen’s Instructions to the Cook or Tenzo Kyokun, a short but comprehensive document on how to cook and run a kitchen. Written in the twelfth century, it’s just as relevant today.) When I picture Zen and cooking simmering together in the same pot, it conjures up images of freshness and simplicity. So whenever we cook, it pays to be attentive to just how fresh and clear our mind is. A few minutes of reflection before preparing a meal will make a big difference in the outcome. First consider the ingredients that are available. Then allow your mind to visualise the meal you wish to cook, regardless of the size and stature of the ingredients. Imagine someone presenting the meal to you on an elegant platter. Imagine how it will taste – is it the pure flavour of carrot you are after, or something more piquant, robust, or zingy? Imagine working in the kitchen and anticipate the different steps. This kind of anticipation doesn’t mean that the meal will come out exactly as you expect or that you will suddenly become the cleanest or tidiest of cooks. Nor should you feel compelled to express your mindfulness by carefully moving around the kitchen in slow motion. Far from it! It would be more useful to practice mindlessness based on complete mindfulness, and to appreciate the moments in which you are seamlessly and intimately connected with the whole kitchen, maintaining a panoramic awareness of whatever is happening around you. This mindlessness doesn’t leave anything unnoticed and can move at lightening speed, especially when the smell of something burning reaches your ears! Practising how to listen with your eyes and see with your ears has great advantages.

Menus Early morning meditation can be a perfect time to design a menu, especially when there is a large group to feed. Sitting in the stillness of the predawn light, the mind can slowly settle, allowing ideas to freely bubble up into our consciousness. More often than not on the days that I am tenzo, the first thought that appears is, “What shall we eat for breakfast?” Then I pause to see which image comes up most strongly. However, there is no need to go to a zendo or wake up at five in the morning to decide what to make that day. Life has its practicalities. But it does help to take a moment to turn your attention inwards and reflect quietly on what kind of meal to make for the people who are present. Is it a good day for pasta, or a better day for potatoes? Does it need to be made quickly, like stir-fried rice, or is there time to throw something in the oven, like pizza or tamale pie? A hot, summers day might evoke freshness and lightness and longing for a big crispy salad, while a freezing cold day brings up a desire to eat something hearty and strong, straight out of the oven. Or, you might try to sense what others want to eat that day – it may surprise you. At other times, making do with what you find in an almost empty pantry is the only choice. What will you cook when the mushrooms you counted on have vanished and the shops are all closed? Who knows, such surprises can throw you into a creative tizzy! (Creative panic can be quite handy on such occasions.) And if you’re completely stumped, simply ask others what they would like to eat that day. A brilliant, unexpected suggestion could save the day! Menus are best seen as works in progress. But when creating one, be sure to balance a single carbohydrate, such as rice or pasta, with a single protein like tofu, tempeh, beans or lentils, ricotta, feta cheese, soy protein, or nuts. Dress them up with plenty of fresh vegetables and salad. Try to include some dark green leafy vegetables such as spinach or watercress, since these add nutrients and minerals. Although there are a few exceptions, I usually limit cheese and dairy products to the condiment trays. As a rule of thumb, remember that the trio of carbohydrate, protein, and vegetable is the backbone for each meal, particularly the main one of the day. At Zen River, we have seen a few dinners go askew and leave craving palettes and tummies by not following this pattern. Although our menu plan changes constantly, there are two days during our regular training weeks where specific meals have become a tradition (more out of preference than design). On Sunday mornings, we enjoy hard-boiled eggs and fresh baked rolls with various cream cheeses or spreads alongside Dutch cheese. On Wednesday mornings, our “happy Friday” because it is the last day of the regular training week, we bake “singing” potatoes with scrambled eggs, fried mushrooms, and tomatoes. It’s a breakfast that everyone looks forward to, myself included, and it is always a joy to make.

Most of the recipes in this book are laid out in three steps: gathering, prepping and cooking. First the ingredients (this facilitates gathering and rooting things out of the fridge or store room ahead of time) followed by preparation, so the kitchen bodhisattva brigade will know what to do, and then cooking. This pattern works very well in Zen River, and could work just as easily for family meals at home. By preparing everything in advance, whipping up the final stages of a meal can proceed relatively quickly. However, there is no reason why cooking can’t start while prep is still happening. One can easily stir-fry onions and peppers while chopping carrots, or flick on the rice cooker while mincing up garlic and rinsing salad. And lastly, a note on the recipes and measurements. Most of these recipes are designed to serve four large or six medium portions, and, unless they are oven dishes, most main meals can be on the table within one hour. The recipes were originally cooked intuitively and measurements were inexact. The decision to write them down in any formal manner happened more recently. After fishing out the measuring spoons and cups, it became clear that a slosh of soy sauce, a shake of basil and a dash of nutmeg were, in fact, incredibly close to a 60 ml (¼ cup), a 15 ml tablespoon, a 5 ml teaspoon and a gram. So the measurements were less haphazard than I had thought. That said, it would be foolish to assume that anyone would wish a dish to come out exactly the same every time. You might hit the chillies hard one time, yet leave them out entirely another time. We all have different tastes and preferences, so please use your own intuition.

Measuring Spoons

Measuring spoon sizes used in the recipes. Left to right; 15 ml (1) tablespoon; 5 ml (1) teaspoon; 2.5 ml (½) teaspoon; 1.25 ml (¼ teaspoon)

A Typical Week Menu Plan Monday

Tuesday

Wednesday

Thursday

Traditional Porridge, p. 17

Millet Congee, p. 30

Singing Potatoes, p. 35

Hot Milky Rice Cereal, p. 18

Scrambled Eggs, p. 36

Tropical Melon, Lychee & Mint Compote, p. 74

Baked Cinnamon Apple Wedges, p. 64

Bananas, Pomegranate, Quark & Yogurt, p. 76

Red Onion & Pepper Condiment, p. 194 Short Grain Brown Rice, p. 84

Quinoa, p. 90

Carrot & Apple Salad, p. 218

Green Salad With Rucola

Oven Roasted Spanish-Style Saffron Vegetables, p. 94 Lentils, p. 130 Cashew Nut Mock Ali-Oli, p. 197 Sauce, p. 218

Couscous, p. 90

Lemony Spaghetti, p. 181

Apricot Jalapeño Dressing, p. 226

Black Bean Chocolate Chilli, p. 106 Rich Red Pasta Sauce With Lentils, p. 117 Fresh Tomato Salsa, p. 108 Green Salad With Lambs Lettuce Grated Cheese Strawberry Chilli Sour Cream Dressing, p. 216 Iceberg Lettuce

Spinach Soup With Chilli & Dill,p. 235

Miso Soup With Ginger, p. 231

Carrot & Roasted Red Double Mushroom Paprika Soup, p. 247 Delight Soup, p. 239

Friday

Saturday

Sunday

Semolina / Polenta, p. 21

Black Rice Congee, p. 7

White Rolls, p. 59

Stuffed Baked Apples, p. 71

Mandarin & Banana With Orange Kissel, p. 7

Hard-Boiled Eggs, p. 39

Spiced White Rice, p. 89

Jasmin Lemon Rice, p. 7

Lentil Curry Dhal With Cumin Seeds, p. 7

Big Fat White Beans In Red, Red Sauce, p. 128

Spiced Apple Chutney, p. 196

Parmesan Cheese

Yogurt Cumin Raita, p. 203 Cooked Spinach Tomato Salad, p. 227 Hot Sour Soup, p. 7

Spinach Salad & Mushrooms, p. 221 Honey Mustard Lemon Dressing, p. 221 Confetti Corn Chowder, p. 241

Cream Cheese With Green Onions, p. 7. Sesame Pasta, p. 169 Sesame Stir Fry Vegetables, p. 101 Lettuce & Daikon Salad, p. 217 Miso Dressing With Ginger & Sesame, p. 217 Or Tofu Tahini Dressing, p. 225 Spectacular Pumpkin Soup, p. 237

Breakfast Cereals

Traditional Porridge The first day of a Zen retreat always seems to start with porridge for breakfast. One morning long ago, I glanced into the kitchen and watched an old tenzo preparing it, sprinkling steel cut oats into cold water and stirring them all the way to boiling, which must have taken him hours! These days we are lucky to have rolled oats, which take almost no time to prepare. (However, the benefit of using steel cut oats is they are nuttier in flavour and have more texture.) 1½ litres (6 cups) water 220 g (2 cups) rolled oats or 320 g (2 cups) steel cut oats 1 tablespoon oat bran (optional) ӯ 

* In a large covered pot, bring the water to a boil with a pinch of salt. * (Optional step) In a dry skillet, dry-roast the oats until they become fragrant and a little golden on the edges. Remove. Next, roast the oat bran for a few minutes. This gives a lovely aromatic flavour to the porridge. * When the water boils, whisk in the oats and bran so that there is no clumping. Keep a close watch and stir until the porridge begins to rise up the sides of the pot. * Immediately turn the flame down to the lowest setting and cover for 2–3 minutes (rolled oats) or 20–25 minutes (steel cut oats). Stir gently now and then. Add more hot water as needed. It will continue to thicken after it comes off the flame. * Serve with honey, salt, and Gomasio (p. 192).

Hot Milky Rice Cereal Rice cereal. Tenkei loves it – says the milk brings out the subtle flavour of the rice so that you can really taste it. The milk adds a little softness, the raisins sweetness, and the lemon and spice add character. Cooking this cereal in a pressure cooker is very simple and will make the rice grains more tender and plump. 220 g (1 cup) white rice 750 ml (3 cups) milk, or milk substitute 750 ml (3 cups) water Dash of nutmeg 2 tablespoons raisins, or goji berries ¼ teaspoon lemon zest

ӯ 

* Gently rinse the rice in several changes of water and drain. * In a big pot stir together the milk, water, and nutmeg. Set over a medium flame. * When boiling, add the rice, raisins or goji berries, and lemon zest. Return to a boil and then turn the flame down to low. Cook for 15–20 minutes, without stirring, until it just begins to thicken. * Alternatively, cook in a pressure cooker. Bring all of the ingredients to pressure over a high flame. When the pressure is up and the valve locks, turn off and let it rest for 10–15 minutes. * Serve immediately alongside honey or brown sugar. * For a creamier version, substitute all the water with milk.

Black Rice Congee Black rice congee showed up on the Zen River menu after a visit to China. Besides its wonderful deep purple colour, it is amazingly aromatic and very nutritious. Black sticky rice, also called glutinous rice, can be found in either Asian markets or health food stores. It’s not to be mistaken with wild rice, which is slightly different. To speed up the cooking time soak the black rice in the water overnight, then gently simmer for about 30 minutes. 220 g (1 cup) black sticky rice 1¼ litres (5 cups) water Pinch of salt

ӯ 

* Gently rinse the rice in several changes of water and drain. Put the rice and fresh water into a large pot and bring to a rolling boil over a high flame. * As soon as it boils, turn down the flame, cover, and gently simmer for about 50 minutes, adding more water as needed. * Stir often during the last 20 minutes to prevent sticking. * Alternatively, cook in a pressure cooker. Bring to pressure over a high flame. When the pressure valve seals, turn the flame low and cook for 25–30 minutes. Turn off and let the pressure drop naturally. Stir well before serving, adding a little hot water to thin if needed. * Season with a little salt and serve with broken cashew nuts.

Japanese Temple Gruel In the Japanese training temples, almost every day begins with rice gruel (okayu). It’s light, soft and fluffy, and it cooks quickly. If there are surprise guests, it can be easily extended by adding hot water. Sometimes a small amount of brown rice is also included. Served with gomasio, pickles and umeboshi (pickled plums), okayu warms you up from the inside. For six months Tenkei and I lived at Kirigayaji, a lovely home temple in Tokyo run by Rev. Junyu Kuroda (Hojosan), and this gruel was often served for breakfast accompanied by a strong miso soup. Try cooking it in a pressure cooker for delicious results. 220 g (1 cup) sushi rice 1½ litres (6 cups) water ӯ 

* Gently rinse and drain the rice several times in fresh water until the water is no longer cloudy. * In a pot, add the rice and water. Soak for 15 minutes. Bring to a boil on a medium flame. Turn the flame low and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the rice grains are just cooked. At this point, the okayu should be thin enough to pour off the spoon. Let it rest, covered, for 10 minutes without stirring. (This ensures the rice grains remain whole.) * Alternatively, cook in a pressure cooker. Bring to pressure over a high flame. When the pressure valve seals, turn off and let it rest for 10–15 minutes. * Serve with umeboshi plums, miso soup, and pickles (or honey...)

Semolina / Polenta Polenta for breakfast. It was 1988, in the middle of a deep winter retreat in Bar Harbor, Maine, US. The bland smoothness of the polenta, the pungency of pure molasses (treacle), and the light saltiness of gomasio were an impressive trio in the morning silence. 175 g (1 cup) coarse polenta 1½ litres (6 cups) water Pinch of salt 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice ¼ teaspoon lemon zest

ӯ 

* Toast the polenta in a dry skillet until fragrant. It should smell a bit like popcorn! * Bring the water to a boil in a large pot with the salt, lemon juice and zest. The lemon will improve the flavour. * Slowly sprinkle the polenta into boiling water and whisk quickly with a metal whisk to avoid lumps forming. * Heat over a medium flame for 3–5 minutes, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom with a flat, wooden spoon until thick, creamy, and bubbling. (Keep a cup of hot water ready to thin if needed.) * Serve with Gomasio (p. 192) and black strap molasses or honey.

Indian-Style Rice Cereal This is almost good enough to be served as a dessert. Rice roasted with spices and butter enhances its already delicate fragrance. 1 tablespoon butter 12 cm (5”) cinnamon stick 210 g (1 cup) basmati rice 8 green cardamom pods, crushed with hulls removed, or ¼ teaspoon ground

2–3 bay leaves 1–2 whole, star anise Pinch of cloves 750 ml (3 cups) milk, any kind 750 ml (3 cups) water 2 tablespoons raisins

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* In a heavy bottomed pot on a low flame, melt the butter. When sizzling, add the cinnamon stick and fry until it unfurls, about 2 minutes. Add the rice, remaining spices and stir-fry until the rice begins to blush, about 5 minutes. (If using ground cinnamon, it should be added the same time as the water. Bear in mind it will change the colour and the consistency.) * Pour in the milk, water and raisins, turn up the flame and bring to a boil. As soon as it boils, turn the flame low, cover, and simmer for 15–20 minutes. * Alternatively, cook in a pressure cooker. After frying the rice and spices, bring all the ingredients to pressure over a high flame. When the pressure valve seals, turn off and let it rest for 8–10 minutes. * Remove the whole spices and serve with brown sugar.

Spiced Muesli Make this in large batches and store in an airtight container. It will keep for weeks. 450 g (4 cups) rolled oats 2 tablespoons oat bran 4 tablespoons sesame seeds 2 tablespoons desiccated coconut 4 tablespoons raisins 4 tablespoons nuts, any kind

Pinch of salt 1½ teaspoons cinnamon ⅛ teaspoon cloves ⅛ teaspoon nutmeg 2 teaspoons brown sugar (optional) ӯ 

* In a clean, dry skillet on a low flame, slowly toast the oats until fragrant – about 25–30 minutes if the heat is low. Transfer to a heatproof mixing bowl. * Stir-fry the oat bran until fragrant, usually just a few minutes. Combine with the oats. Repeat with the sesame seeds until they pop and then with the coconut until it turns light golden brown. * Combine all the above ingredients together with the raisins, nuts, salt, spices and brown sugar in the mixing bowl. * Serve with yogurt or milk of your choice. Use different combinations of spices, nuts, and raisins to create different kinds of muesli.

Soaked Muesli with Apple Bircher muesli is a simple, refreshing alternative during the summer months. The flavours of the oats, apples, and dried fruit soak deliciously into one another. Make it the night before and chill in the fridge. If you prefer the nuts crunchy, stir them in just before serving. 1 large apple 360 g (3¼ cups) quick or rolled oats 3 heaped tablespoons dried cranberries Pinch of salt 900 ml (3¾ cups) apple juice, or milk of your choice ½ teaspoon cinnamon 3 heaped tablespoons nuts, any kind ӯ 

* The evening before, peel, core and dice the apple. * Combine all the ingredients, except the nuts, in a serving bowl. * Cover and refrigerate overnight. * The next morning, add the nuts, stir a few times and add more juice or milk as needed.

Granola Granola can store well in an airtight container for several weeks. The honey makes for fabulous crunchy morsels. While baking, however, keep a watchful eye on it because the honey clusters cook much quicker than the oats. 450 g (4 cups) rolled oats 6 tablespoons sunflower oil 6 tablespoons honey 3 heaped tablespoons pumpkin seeds 3 heaped tablespoons sunflower seeds 3 heaped tablespoons raisins

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* Preheat the oven to 190 °C (375 °F). * Mix the sunflower oil into the oats really well. * Put the oats in a shallow baking tin. * Drizzle with honey and mix lightly, leaving small clusters of honey here and there. Spread the oats out evenly and place in the oven starting with 10 minutes intervals or until the oats start to brown at the edges. * Remove from the oven and rotate the oats by bringing the well-toasted oats and clusters away from the edges. Return to the oven. * Repeat two more times until the oat clusters turn a dark golden colour. * Keep a careful watch because it can toast quickly depending on your oven temperature! * In a clean, dry skillet on medium flame, toast the pumpkin and sunflower seeds. Mix into the granola with the raisins. * Serve with chilled dairy, nut or soy milk.

Brown Rice Cereal This is a wonderfully soothing breakfast dish. It cooks really well in a pressure cooker, making each rice grain soft and plump and the water silky smooth. It can also be made with cooked brown rice, which reduces the cooking time considerably, but reduce the water by a third. If you want it a little chewier, also use a third less water. This cereal combines beautifully with quinoa. Simply replace half the brown rice for quinoa and follow the same recipe. 280 g (1¼ cups) short grain brown rice 1½ litres (6 cups) water

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* Rinse and drain the rice. Put the rice and water into a large pot and bring to a rolling boil over a high flame. As soon as it boils, turn down the flame, cover, and gently simmer for about 1 hour. Stir often during the last 20 minutes to prevent sticking. Add more water if needed because some may evaporate during the cooking process. * Alternatively, cook in a pressure cooker. Because there is less evaporation during the cooking time, reduce the water by 100 ml (½ cup). You can always add more hot water if needed at the end. Bring rice and water to pressure over a high flame. When the pressure valve seals, turn the flame to low and cook for 35 minutes. Turn off and let it rest for 15 minutes. * Serve with honey and Gomasio (p. 192).

Quinoa & Amaranth Porridge Amaranth, a food of the ancient Aztecs, gives this porridge a lovely, nutty, earthy flavour and adds a nice crunchy texture. Porridge for adults, perhaps? Of course, quinoa on its own is also lovely. And because both are grown at high altitudes, they’re packed with vitamins and minerals. Once you acquire a taste for it, try increasing the amaranth. 175 g (1 cup) quinoa 2 tablespoons amaranth 1½ litres (6 cups) water ¼ teaspoon butter Pinch of salt

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* Rinse the quinoa and drain through a fine mesh sieve. Put the quinoa, amaranth and water in a large pot with the butter (the butter helps prevent the quinoa from boiling up the sides of the pot), and bring to a rolling boil over high flame. As soon as it boils, turn down the flame, cover and gently simmer for about 30 minutes until it becomes creamy. Stir often the last 10 minutes to prevent sticking. * Alternatively, cook in a pressure cooker using the same measurements. Bring to pressure over a high flame. When the pressure valve seals, turn the flame low and cook for 10 minutes. Turn off and let it rest for 15 minutes. * Stir well, season with a little salt and serve drizzled with honey.

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Millet Congee Millet has been cultivated for the last 10,000 years, from arid lands in the Americas to lands far beyond the great wall of China. In China, I first experienced millet cooked as a gruel. It certainly makes for a wonderfully nourishing, creamy, breakfast porridge. It’s also rich in B vitamins and gluten free. For an even creamier version, substitute part of the water with almond milk. 220 g (1 cup) millet 1½ litres (6 cups) water

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* Rinse the millet and drain using a fine mesh sieve. Put the millet and water into a large pot and bring to a rolling boil over a high flame. As soon as it boils, turn down the flame, cover, and gently simmer for about 25–30 minutes. Stir often during the last 15 minutes to prevent sticking. Add more water if needed because some may evaporate during the cooking process. The longer it cooks, the creamier it becomes. * It also cooks well in a pressure cooker. Rinse and drain the millet, and then put it into the pressure cooker with the water. Seal the lid, turn the flame to high and cook until the pressure valve seals. Immediately turn the flame low and cook for about 5 minutes on high pressure. Remove from the flame and let the pressure drop naturally, about 10 minutes. Stir well before serving. * Serve with Gomasio (p. 192) and honey.

Chilled Almond Rice Pudding During the summer months, cold cereals are much preferred over hot. To fulfil this penchant, rice cereal is transformed into a chilled pudding which can be sweetened any way you wish. 165 g (¾ cup) sushi or pudding rice 600 ml (2½ cups) water 600 ml (2½ cups) almond milk Honey to taste

3 tablespoons toasted, chopped almonds 240 ml (1 cup) cold water or almond milk, optional

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* The day before, gently rinse and drain the rice several times in fresh water until the water is no longer cloudy. * In a pot, add the rice, water, and almond milk. Soak for 15 minutes. Bring to a boil over a medium flame. Turn the flame low and loosely cover to prevent boiling over. Simmer for 15–20 minutes, or until the rice grains are soft and tender. At this point, it should be thin enough to pour off the spoon. Turn off and allow to cool, then cover and chill in the refrigerator. * The next morning, if the rice has set too much, gently stir in the cold water or almond milk, adding more liquid if needed. Stir in one half of the chopped almonds. Salt to taste. * Serve sprinkled with the remaining almonds and drizzled with honey.

Brunch & Bread

Singing Potatoes “You’re right – they do sing!” said Liz. And if singing potatoes didn’t show up for breakfast on Wednesday,​always the favourite day of Anjo (1956–2016), Wednesday would somehow not be Wednesday. Try this recipe using organic Maris Piper potatoes. 1½ kilos (3 pounds) potatoes, about 300 g (2 medium) potatoes per serving 3 tablespoons olive oil ӯ 

* Preheat the oven to 210 °C (410 °F). * Clean and large-dice the potatoes and remove excess moisture by patting with a clean, dry dish towel. * Coat in olive oil and place in a single layer onto an oiled baking tray. * Put on a low rack in the oven. After about 20 minutes, when the sound is a gentle sizzle, take the potatoes out of the oven and, being careful not to break them, flip the potatoes by sliding a flat, heatproof spatula underneath them. Jiggle the tray to distribute the potatoes evenly. Ensure that each piece of potato has contact with the baking tray. Return to the oven and flip them again in another 15–20 minutes to ensure an even colour. * Bake for 45–60 minutes, depending on your oven, the size of the tray and the amount of potatoes. They are ready to serve when they turn a lovely golden brown colour and “sing.” Take them out of the oven. If necessary, place potatoes on paper towels for a few seconds to absorb excess oil. * Serve immediately while hot and crisp. * Keeps warm in the oven for a short time, but don’t pile the potatoes up or cover the tray tightly as they may lose their crispness. * Serve alongside scrambled eggs, baked mushrooms, and fried tomatoes.

Scrambled Eggs Should you wonder at the addition of corn starch to the scrambled eggs, it so happened that each time the eggs were scrambled with milk, the whey would slowly separate and collect in the bottom of the serving dish. Adding a little starch, I discovered, prevented that from happening. It doesn’t seem to affect the texture or the taste. Salt is omitted to keep the eggs somewhat fluffy – they can easily be salted later. 10 medium free-range eggs 80 ml (⅓ cup) milk 1 teaspoon corn starch Olive oil for frying

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* Crack the eggs into a tall measuring jug. Whisk the milk with the corn or potato starch in a small bowl, then blend everything together with an immersion blender until the eggs have a nice head of foam. * In a nonstick frying pan on low-medium flame, heat a tablespoon of oil. Test the heat with a small drop of egg – it should sizzle and make a star shape in the oil. * Pour in the eggs and let them rest until the bottom sets in an even layer. Using a heatproof spatula or flat, wooden spoon, draw the eggs away from the edges of the frying pan into the middle. Work clockwise around the frying pan and allow any uncooked egg to flow back to the edge of the pan. Continue to pull the eggs into the middle until nothing flows back to the edge. It should look like a large omelette. * Next, using the spatula or wooden spoon, break the eggs into four equal pieces, flip over and let them rest for 10–12 seconds. They should have a light golden colour. Remove from the heat and serve right away. If you need to keep them warm for some time, place the eggs in a bowl, loosely covered with foil, over a pan of boiled water. * If you need to cook the eggs in batches, brush the pan clean with a wooden spoon, add some more oil and commence with the next round.

Fried Tomatoes 6 large or 12 small ripe vine tomatoes 2 tablespoons olive oil Sprinkle of sea salt

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* Slice big tomatoes in half across the middle so that the stem and base of the tomato are on the top and bottom, or keep small ones whole. * Coat a skillet with a thin layer of olive oil, dip the open side of the cut tomatoes into the olive oil, and turn with open sides up, or roll small ones around the oil to coat. Cook on a low flame for 20–25 minutes or until the skins begin to split. Cover with a lid for a scant 5 minutes to finish. Serve with a sprinkle of coarse ground sea salt.

Pan-Fried Breakfast Mushrooms Fried mushrooms and tomatoes served alongside scrambled eggs and tinned baked beans are traditional elements of a cooked English breakfast. At Zen River, we skip the beans but add American-style baked potatoes along with a Tex-mex twist on the condiment tray. “West meets West.” 250 g (2½ cups) small mushrooms 1–2 tablespoons olive oil Pinch of sea salt

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* Clean the mushrooms and trim the stems, leaving them whole. * Brush the olive oil onto the bottom of a wide skillet. Put in the mushrooms and stir to coat them with the oil. It will absorb quickly. * Put over a low–medium flame and cook until the mushrooms begin to brown, about 15–20 minutes. Turn now and then to allow even cooking. After 15–20 minutes, add the salt, cover, and cook for a further 5 minutes.

Hard-Boiled Eggs One might easily assume that everyone knows how to hard-boil an egg. However, that may not be the case, according to my mother, who, much to my father’s surprise, confessed she was totally clueless as to how to boil one the day they got married. This method is not the first one I learned, but it has proven to be the best so far. Now the yokes stay yellow rather than turning green on the edges, and the shells are often easier to peel. (This is particularly handy when there are just 20 minutes to shell 40 eggs during busy retreats.) Store egg boxes upside down or place the eggs in water the day before and the yolks will move towards the centre. For slicing them, a clean, sharp knife gives the best results. Try cutting them from the widest part to the narrowest part without moving the knife. This way there is less chance for the yolk to make a great escape! Really try to choose “happy eggs,” which, as my brother puts it, are laid by hens that see blue sky above them every day. 6 free-range happy eggs About 2 litres (8 cups) of water

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* Place the eggs in a small pan with enough cold water to cover them. * Bring to a boil, turn off the flame and cover with a lid for 11–12 minutes (medium eggs) to 14–15 minutes (large and extra large eggs). * Cool in copious amounts of ice cold water. Crack and peel.

Egg Tosties These would usually be grilled, but as we are grill-less at Zen River, we bake them in the oven instead. They can also be made with vegetarian ham slices tucked under the cheese. In fancy restaurants they are known as Croque Madame, and without the egg, Croque Monsieur. In English they are modestly named “toasted cheese sandwiches” or, simpler still, “tosties” in Dutch. 12 slices of brown or white bread 2–3 tablespoon olive oil 2–3 tablespoons French mustard 150 g–200 g (1½–1¾ cups) grated mild cheddar cheese 2 teaspoons Herbes de Provence (basil, fennel, rosemary, savory, thyme) Pinch of salt A few twists of freshly ground black pepper 6 medium free-range eggs ӯ 

* Preheat oven to 210 °C (410 °F). * Place 6 slices of bread on a baking sheet. * Drizzle each slice with olive oil and spread with a layer of mustard. * Generously sprinkle with grated cheese. * Sprinkle with the herbs, salt and pepper. * With a cookie cutter, cut a hole in the centre of the remaining 6 slices. Reserve the cut-out circles. ӯ 

* Place the slices of bread with holes on top of the cheese covered slices and brush the tops with a little olive oil. * Bake in the oven for about 8 minutes, or until the cheese starts to visibly melt. * Remove from the oven, press the slices together slightly to make a seal with the cheese and carefully drop a cracked egg into each hole. Put the reserved cut-out circles onto the tray to toast. * Return to the oven for 12–13 minutes to cook the eggs, depending on how you like your eggs done. They will continue to cook for a minute after they come out of the oven. * Serve with the toasted cut-out circles.

Cornmeal Pancakes We learned to appreciate pancakes while in America in ‘88, especially at Jordan’s Pancake House in Bar Harbor where they are strewn with fat blueberries and served with dollops of whipped butter and maple syrup. If buttermilk is not at hand, substitute one part yogurt to two parts milk. 4 medium, free-range eggs 600 ml (2⅔ cups) buttermilk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3 tablespoons honey or maple syrup 1 teaspoon lemon juice

400 g (2¼ cups) yellow cornmeal (bramata oro, coarsely ground) 200 g (1¼ cups) white flour 2 level tablespoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt

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* Crack the eggs and whisk in a mixing bowl. Add the buttermilk, vanilla, honey or maple syrup, and lemon juice and whisk again until frothy. * In another bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, and salt. * Sift while gently whisking the flour into the milk and eggs. A few small lumps in the batter are okay. If the batter feels thick, add a little more milk. * Preheat a nonstick frying pan on low–medium flame with a little oil. Test with a small bead of batter, which will sizzle when hot. Pour about 150 ml (⅔ cup) of batter into the centre of the frying pan. It should spread out naturally. * Cook until bubbles form, the surface sets, and the shine from the batter starts to disappear, about 4–5 minutes. * Flip and cook until the underside is golden, about 1–2 minutes. * Let the pancakes breathe on a wire rack until slightly cooled. Stack or reheat by spreading out on an oven rack in a hot oven for 5 minutes.

Caramel Fudge Sauce The aromatic fragrance of caramel sauce bubbling on the stove can fill a kitchen with happiness. Serve with Pancakes (p. 37), French toast, or anything else that likes a little extra decadent sweetness. Have all ingredients measured and ready beforehand because once the sugar turns amber, everything cooks quickly! It is also extremely hot, so be careful not to touch it until it cools. 200 g (1 cup) white sugar 125 ml (½ cup) water 1 tablespoon butter 125 ml (½ cup) milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Pinch of salt

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* In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, dissolve the sugar in the water on a low flame. * Stirring often to prevent burning, cook for about 20 minutes or until the sugar solution turns a light–medium amber colour. Be very careful not to let it burn, and be careful not to burn yourself either! Use a heat-resistant brush dipped in water to remove sugar collecting on the sides of the pan. When the colour looks right, immediately remove it from the flame. * Quickly beat in the butter until it dissolves, and then slowly drizzle and whisk in the milk. Stir in the vanilla and salt. * With a wooden spoon, beat for a few minutes to break down the sugar crystals (this makes it more like fudge), all the while remembering to scrape into the corners of the pan and the edges. (The sugar collects there as a hard sediment if it doesn’t get beaten into the milk!) * When the sauce begins to cool, exchange the wooden spoon for a whisk and whisk for a further two minutes, making sure to get into the corners.

Cheese & Green Onion Pancakes In the US, we enjoyed the quintessential small, plump blueberry pancakes stacked several high with lashings of maple syrup and smothered with whipped butter for brunch. In Holland, however, pancakes are not simply a brunch affair, they are a lunch affair where pizza-sized pancakes are embedded with anything from bacon and cheese to sugared strawberries and laid bare on a wide platter drizzled with “stroop”, Dutch pancake syrup. At Zen River, some come embedded with green onions and grated cheese. How that came to be was a culmination of cultures. When we visit Japan, Hojosan often guides us to a tiny, family-run yakitori cafe near Gotanda station in Tokyo. This cafe barely seats ten and serves all kinds of titbits skewered on small sticks, brushed with teriyaki and grilled over red hot coals. One evening they offered us a skewer of vegetables, several of which were fat wedges of green onions. The grilling transformed their bland onion-ness into something otherworldly. One day that memory popped up while I was making pancakes. As serendipity would have it, lying there in the fridge was an expectant bunch of green onions. Sprinkled onto the pancakes, the onions were caramelized deeply into the cheese by the strong heat and oil. Yum! Makes about 12–16 pancakes. 5 medium, free-range eggs 750 ml (3¼ cups) milk 1 tablespoon sugar 350 g (2¼ cups) white flour 1½ tablespoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt 150 g–200 g (1½–2 cups) grated cheese 4 stems green onions ӯ 

* Crack the eggs and whisk in a mixing bowl. Add the milk and sugar, and whisk again until frothy. * In another bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. * Sift the flour into the milk and eggs, and then gently whisk. A few small lumps in the batter are okay. Let it rest for 20 minutes. * Roughly mince the green onions. ӯ 

* Preheat several nonstick frying pans on low–medium flame with a little oil until a drop of the mixture sizzles on touching the frying pan. Pour roughly 150 ml (⅔ cup) of batter into the middle of each frying pan, allowing the batter to spread out naturally. * Sprinkle each pancake evenly with some grated cheese and green onions. Cook until bubbles form and the shine on the batter disappears. Then flip them over and cook for a few more minutes until the cheese and batter are golden, usually half the time it took for the first side to cook. Lift up the edges to check the colour underneath. Repeat until all the batter is finished. * Let the pancakes breathe on a wire rack until slightly cooled. Stack or reheat by spreading out on an oven rack in a hot oven for 5 minutes before serving. For plain pancakes, just omit the cheese and onions.

Oven Cheese Toast “Unbelievable! Pizza in Oryoki! In Eiheiji, we never eat pizza in Oryoki. But, I love pizza. So I should eat pizza in Oryoki!” exclaimed Shundou-san, after his first encounter with cheese on toast served in the formal-style eating bowls. 1 medium red onion 1 red bell pepper 1 tablespoon olive oil for frying 2 teaspoons Herbes de Provence (basil, fennel, rosemary, savory, thyme) Pinch of black pepper Pinch of salt 6 slices of brown or white bread 2–3 tablespoons olive oil for the bread 150 g–200 g (1½–2 cups) grated mild cheddar cheese ӯ 

* Peel and small-dice the red onion. * Deseed and small-dice the bell pepper. * Heat the oven to 210 °C (410 °F). * In a frying pan on medium flame, sauté and lightly brown the onion and pepper with the olive oil, Herbes de Provence, pepper and salt. * Drizzle olive oil on one side of each slice of bread, all the way to the edges. Arrange as many slices as will fit on a baking tray, oiled side up. * Place a tablespoonful of the onions and peppers on each slice, spread evenly, and generously sprinkle with grated cheese. * Bake 15–18 minutes until the cheese melts on top and the bread becomes crisp on the edges.

Bread Making When moving into Zen River in 2002, we inherited the old kitchen inventory. One item, a 1970’s Kenwood mixer, continued to pant its way through a further 10 years of mechanical kneading and became our bread mixing queen. Mixing and kneading is one of the first things to happen in the kitchen. The sound of the machine whirring and creaking fills the early stillness before the stove vent’s noisy fan is switched on, muffling all other sounds. Bread making is surprisingly easy and straightforward if one follows a few key points. Here they are:

YEAST Yeast and sugar are the two ingredients responsible for making bread rise. Lukewarm liquids, around 37 °C (98 °F), activate the yeast to grow. If the liquid is too hot, the yeast will be killed; too cold, it won’t be activated. Lukewarm feels just a little warmer than body temperature when tested on your wrist. Dissolve fresh yeast into warm water and sugar and allow it to bubble and ferment for 15 minutes before stirring in any dry ingredients, especially salt which can kill the yeast if it makes direct contact. If you have dry active yeast, however, it can be stirred into the flour before being mixed with the warm water and sugar. GLUTEN Gluten is the elastic protein in wheat flour that is released through kneading. Elasticity gives bread those lovely little holes, and this is why so much emphasis is put on kneading. The percentage of gluten in white flour is higher than in brown flour, due to fact that all the fibre, germ, and hulls from the wheat grains have been removed. Hence, white flour rises more than brown. FIRST KNEAD AND RISING Bread can be mixed and kneaded by hand or machine. Machine kneading is quicker, usually 3–4 minutes for white flour and 6–7 minutes for whole wheat flour on low speed. Either way, work the dough until it starts to clean the sides of the bowl. If the dough is stiff, add a few tablespoons of warm water to soften it, preferably before it starts to come together as a ball. Sprinkle with extra flour if the dough still feels wet and sticky after 3–5 minutes. When done, cover with a cloth and let it rise in a warm place until doubled in size. This takes 30 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the warmth of the room and the type of flour. SECOND KNEAD AND SHAPING Knock the air out of the risen dough and place it in the middle of a clean, flat work surface sprinkled with flour. Dust your hands with flour and shape the dough into a ball. Using the heel of your hand and the weight of your body, push into the dough and stretch it. Fold into two, turn a quarter, and repeat. Continue until the dough feels elastic under your palms and springs back when stretched. Shape into a ball and allow the dough to rise in a warm place until it doubles in size. Kneaded too little, the bread will not rise well and will be crumbly; kneaded too much, the elasticity of the gluten will “break”, which can easily happen if the processor worked the dough for too long. BAKING Preheat the oven to 210 °C (410 °F). To form a nice crust and give lift to the bread, place a few cups of hot water in a heatproof container in the bottom of the oven. The steam will prevent the bread from drying out, help it to rise while baking, and give it a nice crust. The bread is ready when it sounds hollow when tapped with a finger or if a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out clean (without any sticky dough attached to it). Remove from the trays or tins and cool on a wire rack. The crust of a loaf can be improved by putting the loaf back into the oven for 5 minutes after it has been removed from the tin.

Crumpets These take a little time and patience, but they’re well worth the wait! Unlined, empty tins with the tops and bottoms removed make good rings for baking crumpets. (Pineapple cans work very well.) Make sure the trim of the cans are smooth. Be sure to keep the rings well greased with melted butter so the crumpets fall out easily when cooked. Have a blunt knife handy to tease the edges if they stick after cooking. Homemade crumpets are much tastier than the shop-bought ones. Makes about 12 crumpets.

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Plain Crumpets 315 g (2 cups) white flour 2 teaspoons dry active yeast 2 teaspoons sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 400 ml (1¾ cups) lukewarm water 37 °C (98 °F) 4 tablespoons butter for greasing the rings (oil doesn’t work as well) ӯ 

* Combine the flour, yeast, sugar, baking powder, and salt together in a bowl. * Place the warm water in a large mixing bowl and add the dry ingredients. Whisk well to release the gluten. * Let it rest for 30 minutes in a warm place until bubbles appear on the surface. The consistency should be liquid enough to allow the mixture to easily drop off a spoon, like a thick pancake batter - add a little more water or flour as needed. * Preheat two skillets on low–medium flame, one with a lid and one without. * Melt the butter in a small pan. * Using a pastry brush, grease the lower inner walls of 3–4 muffin or crumpet rings, about 8 cm (3”) wide, with the melted butter. (You can also use unlined tin cans with tops and bottoms removed.) * Place the greased rings in the first frying pan and spoon approximately 50 ml (¼ cup) of batter into each ring. Check to see if the batter spreads evenly. If not, quickly use a skewer to even out the surfaces. * Let them cook until bubbles appear and the tops of the crumpets begin to set and lose their shine, about 3–4 minutes. * Check and adjust the heat so that when the batter sets on the top, the bottoms of the crumpets are a dark golden brown. * Lift the rings off and place the crumpets in the second frying pan. Cover with a lid and steam for 1–2 minutes until completely set. Turn onto a cooling rack. * While the crumpets are steaming, continue to repeat the steps for the remaining batter until they are all cooked. * Optional step – flip and cover for 1 more minute to brown the tops. Remove and cool on a rack. * Serve with butter and marmalade.

English Muffins 4 tablespoons butter 400 ml (1½ cups) milk 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon active yeast

630 g (4 cups) white flour 2 tablespoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt ӯ 

* In a small pan, melt the butter. Then add the milk and sugar, and heat to lukewarm, 37 °C (98 °F). Pour into a large mixing bowl then stir in the yeast. * Combine the flour, baking powder and salt, and add to the milk and yeast mixture. Let it rest for a few minutes to allow the yeast to activate. * Knead for 3–5 minutes or until the dough becomes elastic and pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Add more flour if the dough feels too wet, or more milk if the dough feels too stiff. (It’s easier to add extra liquid earlier on in the kneading process.) Cover and let rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. * Put the risen dough on a floured work table. Knead the dough into a circular form. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough out evenly to 1 cm (½”) thick. * With an 8 cm (3”) cookie cutter, cut as many circles out of the dough as possible and place on a baking sheet. * Collect the leftover dough, knead into a ball and repeat as above until all the dough is finished. The dough should make about 15 muffins. * Sprinkle with flour using a flour shaker. Let rise for 40 minutes in a warm place, or until doubled in size. * Preheat the oven to 210 °C (410 °F) and bake 15–17 minutes or until golden on top.

Whole Wheat Bread 400 ml (1¾ cups) lukewarm water 37 °C (98 °F) 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon dry active yeast 50 ml (¼ cup) olive or sunflower oil 650 g (4 cups) whole wheat flour 1 teaspoon salt ӯ 

* Combine the warm water, sugar, and yeast in a mixing bowl. Let it rest for a few minutes to allow the yeast to activate. Foam and bubbles should appear on the surface. Add the oil, flour, and salt and mix well. Cover and leave in a warm place to rise until doubled in size. * Turn onto a floured surface and knead, sprinkling with flour as needed, until the dough stops sticking and becomes one smooth form. Use the base of your palms to push the dough outwards. Then fold the dough back onto itself, turn a quarter and repeat. Knead until it starts to feel elastic under your palms and loses all stickiness, about 5 minutes. * Form into a rectangular shape, folding the ends under the loaf. Scatter a few seeds on the work surface and then roll the loaf across them to pick up the seeds into the crust. If the seeds don’t stick, dampen the surface of the loaf and repeat. * Place in a 30 cm (12”) oiled loaf tin and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size. * Bake in a preheated oven at 210 °C (410 °F) for 25–30 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean when pricked through the centre of the loaf.

White Rolls 375 ml (1½ cups) lukewarm water 37 °C (98 °F) 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon dry active yeast 50 ml (¼ cup) olive or sunflower oil 630 g (4 cups) white flour 1 teaspoon salt ӯ 

* Combine the warm water, sugar and yeast in a mixing bowl. Let it rest for a few minutes to allow the yeast to activate. Foam and bubbles should appear on the surface. Add the oil, flour, and salt and mix well. Cover and leave in a warm place to rise until doubled in size. * On a floured surface, knead the risen dough until the flour stops sticking to the surface and becomes one form. Add a little more flour if needed. It should start to feel elastic under your palms and not stick to the fingers. * Divide into several 60 g (2 ounce) pieces, kneading and shaping each piece into a round ball between your palms. Tuck any loose edges under the roll. * Distribute evenly on a large baking tray, dust with flour and allow to rise in a warm place until doubled in size. * Bake at 210 °C (425 °F) in a preheated oven for 15–20 minutes. (Put a small, heat-proof bowl of hot water in the bottom of the oven to create steam for fluffy rolls.)

Pita Bread 190 ml (¾ cup) lukewarm water 37 °C (98 °F) 2 teaspoons sugar 2 teaspoons dry active yeast 2 tablespoons olive oil 315 g (2 cups) white flour (makes 9–10 pita breads) 1 teaspoon salt ӯ 

* Combine the warm water, sugar and yeast in a mixing bowl. Let it rest for a few minutes to allow the yeast to activate. Foam and bubbles should appear on the surface. First stir in the oil and flour. Then add the salt and mix well. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead until the dough stops sticking and becomes one smooth form. It should start to feel elastic under your palms and not stick to your fingers. Let it rise in a warm place, covered, until doubled in size. * Preheat the oven to 240 °C (500 °F). * Divide the dough into 9–10 fist-sized pieces. Knead and form into balls. Using a rolling pin, roll out to ½ cm x 12 cm (¼” x 5”) rounds. Place the pitas on a large, flat baking sheet and allow to rise for 5 minutes. * Bake on the bottom of the oven, the hottest place, for 4–5 minutes or until they puff up. Cool on a wire rack. They will level out as they cool.

Cinnamon Raisin Bread 400 ml (1¾ cups) lukewarm water 37 °C (98 °F) 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon dry active yeast 650 g (4 cups) whole wheat flour

50 ml (¼ cup) olive or sunflower oil 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons brown sugar 125 g (½ cup) raisins

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* Combine the warm water, sugar and yeast in a mixing bowl. Let it rest for a few minutes to allow the yeast to activate. Foam and bubbles should appear on the surface. When bubbles appear add the flour, oil, cinnamon, and salt and mix well. Cover and leave in a warm place to rise until doubled in size. * Turn the dough out onto a floured surface, and knead until the flour stops sticking to the surface and becomes one smooth form. It should start to feel elastic under your palms and not stick to the fingers. * Form into a large, flat, round shape about 2 cm (1”) thick and sprinkle with the raisins and brown sugar. Roll up tightly and knead for a few minutes to allow the raisins and sugar to work into the bread. (Skip this last step if you prefer a swirl of raisins in the bread.) Form into a rectangular shape. * Place in an oiled 30 cm (12”) loaf tin and let rise in a warm place until almost doubled in size. * Bake in a preheated oven at 210 °C (410 °F) for 25–30 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean when inserted into the middle of the loaf.

Flour Tortilla 315 g (2 cups) white flour (makes 10 tortilla) 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 tablespoons vegetable shortening, or butter, cold 190 ml (¾ cup) water ӯ 

* Mix the flour, salt and baking powder together. Cut the vegetable shortening or butter into small pieces and rub into the flour using your fingertips until it resembles bread crumbs. Add the water and work it into the flour using your hands. * Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until the dough stops sticking and becomes one smooth form. It should start to feel elastic under your palms and not stick to your fingers. If it feels too dry or too wet, knead in a little more water or flour. Let it rest for 20 minutes. * Divide the dough into 10 equal sized pieces. On a lightly floured surface, form each piece into a smooth ball. Dust a rolling pin with flour, and roll out each one evenly into a thin, round tortilla, about 18–20 cm (7”–8”) in diameter. Gently rolling the tortilla from the centre to the edges, using even pressure and turning it between each rolling, will help create an (almost) perfectly round tortilla. Or, if you can find one, use a tortilla press! * Heat a cast iron skillet on medium-high flame, and slide the tortilla into the middle. Fry until bubbles start to show on the surface and golden spots appear on the bottom, about 30–40 seconds. Flip over, using a pancake turner, and fry the other side for about 20–30 seconds. Remove from the skillet and stack, one by one, and cover with a clean towel. Roll and bake the remaining tortillas until they are all done.

Fruits

Baked Cinnamon Apple Wedges 6–8 medium apples, such as Jonagold, Elstar or Braeburn 1½ tablespoons brown sugar 2 teaspoons cinnamon ¼ teaspoon nutmeg Pinch of cloves ӯ 

* Preheat the oven to 210 °C (410 °F). Rinse, peel, and cut the apples using an apple divider, or slice them into quarters, trim away the core and slice again. * Combine with the brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove. * Spread on a baking tray one layer deep and bake for 25–30 minutes until the sugar starts to caramelize and the apples are tender but not soggy. They’re ready when a toothpick slides easily through them. * Serve with plain quark or yogurt.

Spicy Winter Apple Mousse When there is a good season, apples come in abundance from the orchard. By January, the last of them usually do best whizzed into a delicious, delicate apple mousse, which is perfect for freezing. 10 medium apples (1½ kg / 3 pounds) 40 g (4 tablespoons) fresh ginger 1 teaspoon lemon zest

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* Peel, core and slice the apples. * Peel and thinly slice the ginger. * Place the apples, ginger and lemon zest in a heavy-bottomed pot. Heat the apples over a medium flame, stirring often, until steam begins to rise. * When the apples are soft yet still pale, blend with an immersion blender until smooth. * Continue to heat gently until bubbles form on the surface, then turn off the flame. * Serve with plain quark or yogurt and sugar.

Apple Moon Fruit Salad 80 ml (⅓ cup) cold water 1 teaspoon potato starch or 2 teaspoons corn starch 240 ml (1 cup) water 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 2 tablespoons honey, or to taste Pinch of sea salt (optional) 4 medium apples, such as Cox’s 100 g (½ cup) fresh blueberries, or frozen ӯ 

* In a small bowl, whisk the potato or corn starch and cold water together. * In a saucepan, bring 240 ml (1 cup) of water to a boil. When boiling, whisk in the starch. Keep whisking until it bubbles and thickens. Add more water or starch if needed. Cool, then stir in the lemon, lime, honey, and salt. * While the sauce cools, peel the apples, cut into quarters and core. Cut each quarter into thin slices, preferably lengthwise. * Rinse and de-stem the blueberries or allow frozen ones to thaw. Mix the sauce through the apples and finally, scatter with blueberries.

Overripe Spotted Bananas Besides turning those spotty, overripe, black skinned bananas into banana bread, cakes or smoothies, try this masterpiece conjured up by Tenkei in his early days as tenzo in Bar Harbor when he tackled the mighty Indonesian “rice table.” This is a feast of up to forty or more tasty side dishes served with various kinds of rice. With the help of an Indonesian friend in Holland, Tenkei got all the spices needed to cook up a memorable meal. One of the sweeter side dishes was this one based on Pisang Goreng, a fried banana or plantain treat found in night markets throughout Southeast Asia. Serve with quark or yogurt for breakfast, or with ice cream as dessert. Sweeten with cinnamon along with honey or brown sugar. 1 teaspoon butter 4–6 ripe, spotted bananas 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 tablespoon honey or brown sugar

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* Preheat the oven to 180 °C (360 °F). * Melt the butter in a small saucepan. * Peel the bananas and place on a baking tray covered with parchment. * Brush the bananas with the melted butter. * Sprinkle with cinnamon and brown sugar or honey. * Bake for about 20 minutes until soft but not mushy.

Hot Spiced Apples & Apricots A warm winter favourite – sweet, spicy, hot, and sharp. By using whole cinnamon sticks and whole cloves, the apple juice will stay quite clear and the flavour of cinnamon and clove more delicate. However, if whole spices are not at hand, ground ones will also work perfectly well. Ground cinnamon tends to thicken the apple juice when heated, lending a stronger flavour, and is a nice alternative. 4–5 medium apples (such as Red Delicious) 400 ml (1¾ cups) unsweetened apple juice 1 x 7 cm (3”) cinnamon stick or 1 teaspoon ground ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom ¼ teaspoon ground ginger, or to taste Dash of nutmeg Pinch of cloves 125 g (½ cup) dried apricots (or other dried fruit) 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice ӯ 

* Rinse, peel (if desired) and cut the apples with an apple divider, or slice them into quarters, trim away the cores, and slice again. * In a large pot, heat together the apple juice, cinnamon stick, cardamom, ginger, cloves, nutmeg and apricots. Simmer just until the apricots soften and begin to swell. Be careful not to cook them too long, or they may fall apart, about 2 minutes depending on the fruit. * Stir in the apples and return to a simmer, without letting it boil. When the apples are just tender, remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice. * Serve with honey.

Stuffed Baked Apples For breakfast at the Zen Center in Bar Harbor, Tenkei occasionally served baked apples inspired by his mother, who pressed a knob of butter into the top of each one. It was a labour of love. These days, with the help of a nifty apple coring machine, they are quite quick to prepare. Remember to serve with the all important Dutch Vla (p. 303) – fresh, pourable custard from a carton - or vanilla yogurt. 6 large apples suited to baking, such as Jonagold, Elstar or Braeburn 4 tablespoons sultanas 1 tablespoon broken walnuts 1 tablespoon brown sugar 2 teaspoons cinnamon ½ teaspoon nutmeg Pinch of cloves 2 tablespoons butter (optional) ӯ 

* Preheat oven to 200 °C (400 °F). * Peel and core the apples. Cut the last centimetre of the core and replace into the base of the apples. * In a small bowl, combine the sultanas, broken walnuts, brown sugar and cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove. Take one tablespoon of the spiced mixture and press down into the core of the apple, making sure the top is level. Sprinkle any leftover sugar over each apple. (Optional: Place a small knob of butter on the top of the spiced mixture and press into the core.) * Place apples on a baking tray lined with parchment. Bake for 35–40 minutes (soft apples) or 1 hour (hard apples). Test by inserting a skewer into the apple. It should slide through easily when cooked.

Spicy Poached Pears This recipe is inspired by the flavours of Norfolk Punch found in England – an old and amazingly healthy herbal tonic containing over thirty herbs and spices. Norfolk Punch is difficult to come by, especially in the Netherlands, so here is an ever so simplified homemade version using a tisane of herbs and spices found in our spice cupboard. Mixed with pears, the juice is delicious, but feel free to enjoy it as a hot drink without the pears too.

500 ml (4 cups) red grape juice 30 g (3 tablespoons) fresh ginger 1 x 12 cm (5”) cinnamon stick 6 whole cloves 3 star anise 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon lemon zest 1 tablespoon blackstrap molasses (treacle) or to taste 1 teaspoon ground liquorice root (or a dried stem of liquorice root) 1 teaspoon rosemary 1 teaspoon thyme 1 teaspoon fennel ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom or 6 green cardamom pods, broken open Pinch of black pepper 5–6 firm conference or hard-cooking pears

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* Peel and mince the ginger and put in a pan together with the grape juice, cinnamon, cloves and star anise, and simmer on a low flame for 20 minutes. * Add the lemon juice, zest, molasses, and remaining herbs and spices. Return to a light boil, turn off, cover with a lid, and steep for 15 minutes. Strain through a tea strainer and put the spiced juice into a wide pot. * Peel (or not as you prefer), core, and cut the pears (or core from the bottom and leave them whole for a festive presentation). * Add the pears to the seasoned juice and bring back almost to a boil, taking care to stir the pears for even cooking. * If using soft pears, as soon as the juice boils, remove from the heat and serve immediately. * If the pears are hard-cooking pears, then simmer 10–20 minutes, until a wooden skewer can easily be inserted through the widest part.

Tropical Melon, Lychee & Mint Compote Ripe melons are divine, even more so when paired with coconut milk, fresh mint, and lychee – very simple and extremely delicious. Use tinned or fresh lychee. If using fresh, just add a little sugar to offset the lemon juice. 250 g (1½ cups) seedless grapes 1 ripe melon, cantaloupe or honeydew 6 large fresh mint leaves 250 ml (1 cup) coconut milk 250 g (1½ cups) lychees, fresh or tinned with syrup, or pineapple cubes 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice ӯ 

* Rinse and pluck the grapes from the vine. Refresh by covering with cold water for 30 minutes. If using fresh lychees, peel, deseed, and cut in half. * Rinse and remove the peel from the melon using a large kitchen knife. First, cut away the top and bottom. Then cut under the peel from top to bottom. Cut the peeled melon in half and scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Cut each half into narrow slices, from top to bottom, and then cut the slices into bite sized cubes. * Place the seeds in a sieve and rub against the sieve to collect the juice. * Roughly mince the mint leaves. * Drain the grapes and mix them with the melon, coconut milk, lychees and the syrup they came in, fresh mint, lemon juice and the melon juice.

Nectarines & Blueberries During the summer months, ripe berries, peaches and nectarines make their appearance in gorgeous, copious amounts at the market. They look beautiful scattered with fresh blueberries. A real treat after a long winter of apples and oranges! 6 ripe nectarines or peaches 150 g (½ cup) fresh blueberries

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* Using a sharp knife, cut the nectarines or peaches in half, against the direction of the stone. Loosen one half from the stone by giving it a gentle twist. Score the remaining half around the stone into quarters and lift off. Then cut all the pieces into eight equal size slices and scatter with the blueberries.

Strawberries, Apricots & Bananas 350 g (2 cups) ripe strawberries 6–8 apricots

2 bananas 2 teaspoons lemon juice

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* Using a sharp knife, cut the apricots in half, cutting against the direction of the stone. Remove the stone, and cut the fruit into four equal size slices. Clean and cut the strawberries in halves. * Peel and slice the bananas, and drizzle with the lemon juice. * Scatter the bananas through the strawberries and apricots.

Bananas, Pomegranate, Quark & Yogurt This is the all-time favourite Zen River standby, so it has to be included. Even when there’s little time and you’re in a rush, this always seems to work. The quark and yogurt combination takes it beyond just plain old skinny yogurt... 300 ml (1¼ cups) nonfat yogurt 150 ml (¾ cup) nonfat quark or Greek yogurt ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract 250 g (1½ cups) pomegranate seeds (about 1 fruit) or seedless grapes 3–4 bananas Honey to taste ӯ 

* Carefully blend the yogurt, quark and vanilla without stirring too much. * Score the pomegranate skin in quarters. Pull apart the fruit and release the seeds while submerging the pomegranate in a bowl full of water. The pith will float and the seeds will sink. Remove the pith and drain. * Peel the bananas, but don’t slice them until the last minute to prevent oxidation. * When ready to serve, slice the bananas and stir them through the yogurt along with the pomegranate seeds. Serve drizzled with honey.

Apple, Pear, Kiwi & Grape Compote Fruit salads are essentially a no-brainer, but sometimes the trick is in the combinations. Besides the taste, also consider how the colours and textures will complement each other. In this recipe, crisp red apples and mild green pears balance the soft and citrusy kiwis, which are then delicately accented with sweet red grapes. Keep the kiwi slices large and don’t handle them too much after cutting because they can easily fall apart. 125 g (½ cup) red seedless grapes 2 Red Delicious, Cox’s or Fuji apples 2 Bartlett or Asian pears 4 ripe kiwi

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* Rinse and pluck the grapes from the vine. Refresh by covering with cold water for 30 minutes. * Core and medium-dice the apples. * Core and medium-dice the pears. * Peel the kiwi and cut into quarter wedges. * Layer the fruit on top of one another, making sure not to bruise the kiwi.

Mandarin & Banana with Orange Kissel Kissel is a dish I learned from my grandmother, who loved all things Russian. Although she usually made kissel with red currants, I thought one day to try it with orange juice to cheer up some mandarins that were past their shelf life. This attempt transformed the humble bananas and now happy mandarins into something special. 125 ml (½ cup) cold orange juice 2 teaspoons potato starch or 1 tablespoon corn starch 400 ml (1¾ cups) orange juice

6 tablespoons desiccated coconut 12 mandarins (or 4 navel oranges) 3 bananas 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

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* In a small bowl, whisk the corn or potato starch and cold orange juice together to form a smooth paste. * In a saucepan, bring the remaining orange juice to a boil, and then whisk the starch into the hot juice. Keep stirring until it thickens. Turn off the flame. Add more juice if it becomes too thick, or more starch if too thin. Cool a little. * Carefully toast the coconut in a dry skillet on low flame until golden. * Peel and separate the mandarin segments. Peel and slice the bananas. Pour the orange kissel over the fruit and stir in the lemon juice. * Serve sprinkled with coconut.

Lemony Fresh Ginger Pears Pears drizzled with lemon and sprinkled with fresh ginger are bright and cheerful, with a mysterious, lingering, perfumed aftertaste. They are the complementary opposites to the very same pears poached in dark, spiced grape juice. Choose pears that are ripe but still a little firm. Peel them if you prefer, as sometimes the skin can be tough. Any kind of pear will suffice. 10 g (1 tablespoon) fresh ginger ½ teaspoon lemon zest 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 3–4 Forel or Conference pears Pinch of salt

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* Peel and finely grate the ginger. * Combine the lemon zest, lemon juice, and ginger with a tiny pinch of salt. * Rinse and peel the pears if the skins are tough, or just leave them as they are. * Core and cut them into bite-sized pieces. * Mix through the lemon and ginger. * Serve with honey and thick, creamy yogurt.

Rice & Grains

Rice & Grains Rice tastes even better when it is rinsed first – unless the package specifically recommends otherwise. Using a large bowl and a fine mesh sieve works well for this and saves losing grains down the sink. Measure the rice and put it in a large bowl. Carefully rinse it in several changes of water until the water is almost clear. Drain well. Some rice grains can break, so be gentle while rinsing it. Brown rice leaves less starch in the water and therefore cleans more quickly. If you have one, steam the rice in an electric rice cooker. Combine the rinsed rice and water and allow the rice to soak for 15 minutes before cooking. Then turn the cooker on and let it do the rest. Alternatively, you can steam it in a heavy-bottomed pot with a tight-fitting lid. Combine the water and rice and soak for 15 minutes. Then cover and place over a medium flame. As soon as the water boils, turn it down to the lowest flame for the rest of the recommended cooking time. An indication that the rice is ready is when the steam coming out from under the lid starts to decrease and little indentations appear on the surface of the rice. Turn off the flame and let the rice rest, covered, for 5–10 minutes before serving. If the rice has stuck to the bottom of the pot, add a tiny amount of water and wait a minute before serving. It should unstick easily. It is also possible to cook the rice like pasta in six times the amount of boiling water. After the prescribed cooking time, drain using a fine sieve, cover, and let it rest for 10 minutes to absorb the remaining water. (Personally, I prefer steaming because the rice retains more flavour.) The ratio of rice to water is only a rough guide because newly harvested rice needs less water and old rice needs more. It also depends on the strength of the heat and how much water evaporates from the rice cooker or pot. If the rice comes out too sticky on the bottom, then reduce the water by 50 ml (¼ cup). If the rice is too dry, add 50 ml (¼ cup) of very hot water at the end of cooking. Without stirring, remove from the flame, cover, and wait five minutes. And, of course, follow the package directions if needed. Serving sizes are 45 g (¼ cup, small serving) or 65 g (⅓ cup, large serving) of raw grain per person. Bulgur and couscous don’t require rinsing as they are precooked. These grains do very well toasted beforehand. See p. 312 for cooking rice in a pressure cooker.

Short Grain Brown Rice Brown rice is one of the staples at Zen River. It has a strong character with a chewy texture, lots of flavour, and a little more sticky than other whole grain varieties. Genpo Roshi often said he could eat brown rice every day! (He also said never to quote him. Sorry!) Serves 4–6. 300 g (1½ cups) short grain brown rice 750 ml (3 cups) water ӯ 

* Rinse the rice in several changes of water and drain. Place the rice and water in a rice cooker or in a heavy-bottomed pot with a tightfitting lid. Let it soak for 30–60 minutes before cooking. * Turn on the rice cooker. If using a pot, cover, and bring to a boil on medium flame. As soon as it boils, turn down the flame to low. Cook for about 45 minutes, or until the steam starts to dwindle and indentations appear on the surface. Turn off the flame and let it rest 10 minutes before serving.

Jasmine Rice Jasmine rice is an elegant white rice from Thailand. We use it with most dishes that require a delicate, yet slightly fragrant rice that is easy to eat with chopsticks. Serves 4–6. 260 g (1¼ cups) jasmine white rice 450 ml (1¾ cups) water ӯ 

* Rinse and drain the rice in several changes of water, being careful not to break the grains. Place rice in a rice cooker with the water, or in a heavy-bottomed pot with a tight-fitting lid. Let it soak for 15 minutes before cooking. * Turn on the rice cooker. If using a pot, cover, and bring to a boil on medium flame. When boiling, immediately turn down to the lowest flame. Cook for about 15 minutes, or until the steam starts to dwindle, the water is absorbed, and the rice is tender. Turn off the flame and let it rest, covered, for 5 minutes before serving.

Basmati Rice Basmati rice, a long grain rice from southern Asia, is perfect with curries – not too sticky and very fragrant. Serves 4–6. 260 g (1½ cups) white basmati rice 1½ litres (6 cups) water

ӯ * Rinse the rice in several changes of water and drain. Put in a bowl, cover with fresh water and soak for about 30 minutes before cooking. * In a large pot, bring the water to a rapid boil. Drain the rice, drop it into the hot water and gently stir until it returns to a boil. Immediately turn down to the lowest flame and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Cook for about 10 minutes, or until the rice is tender. Turn off the flame, drain well, cover with a lid, and let the rice rest for about 3 minutes. Fluff before serving.

Sushi Rice Ordinary Japanese white rice, called uruchimai, is best known in sushi. For good results, rinse it thoroughly. If it is high quality, the grains will shine and gently stick together when cooked. A close relative is calrose rice. Serves 4–6. 260 g (1¼ cups) sushi rice 450 ml (1¾ cups) water

ӯ * Gently rinse the rice in several changes of water and drain, being careful not to break the grains during the rinsing process. Place the rice in a rice cooker with the water, or in a heavybottomed pot with a good fitting lid. Let it soak for 15 minutes before cooking. * Turn on the rice cooker. If using a pot, cover with the lid and bring to a boil on medium flame. When boiling, immediately turn down to the lowest flame. Cook for about 15 minutes, or until the steam starts to dwindle, the water is absorbed, and the rice is tender. Turn off the flame and let it rest, covered, for 5 minutes before serving.

Long Grain Brown Rice This rice is available at most supermarkets. When pre-washed, it cooks quickly and may need less water than short grain brown rice. Serves 4–6. 260 g (1¼ cups) long grain brown rice 525 ml (2¼ cups) water

ӯ Rinse the rice in several changes of water and drain. Place the rice and water in a rice cooker or in a heavy-bottomed pot with a tight-fitting lid. Let it soak for 15 minutes before cooking. * Turn on the rice cooker. If using a pot, cover, and bring to a boil on medium flame. As soon as it boils, turn the flame down to its lowest setting. Cook for about 45 minutes, or until the steam starts to dwindle and indentations appear on the surface. Turn off the flame and let it rest, covered, for 10 minutes before serving.

Rice & Quinoa Brown rice and quinoa make a tasty and nutritious combo. High in fibre and minerals, they are also a great source of protein. Brown rice contains 5 grams and quinoa 8 grams of protein per cup. Serves 4–6. 130 g (⅔ cup) long grain brown or red rice 130 g (⅔ cup) red or white quinoa 570 ml (2⅓ cups) water

ӯ * Rinse and drain the rice and quinoa through a fine mesh sieve so as to not lose any grains. (Rinsing the quinoa will remove any bitterness.) Place them with the water in a rice cooker or in a heavy-bottomed pot with a tight-fitting lid. Let it soak for 15 minutes before cooking. * Turn on the rice cooker. If using a pot, cover with the lid and bring to a boil on medium flame. As soon as it boils, turn down the flame to its lowest setting. Cook for about 20 minutes until the steam starts to dwindle, the water is absorbed and the grains are tender. Turn off, cover and let it rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Brown & Red Rice Brown basmati and red rice together make a very flavourful combination with a lovely, delicate colouring. It goes well with any kind of vegetable main course. Serves 4–6. 130 g (⅔ cup) red vita rice 130 g (⅔ cup) long grain brown basmati rice 600 ml (2½ cups) water ӯ 

* Rinse the rice in several changes of water and drain. Place the rice and water in a rice cooker or in a heavy-bottomed pot with a tight-fitting lid. If you have time, let it soak for 30–60 minutes before cooking (optional). * Turn on the rice cooker. If using a pot, cover and bring to a boil on medium flame. As soon as it boils, turn down the flame to its lowest setting. Cook for about 45 minutes, or until the steam starts to dwindle, the water is absorbed, and the rice is tender. Turn off the flame and let it rest, covered, for 10 minutes before serving.

Spiced Yellow Rice 260 g (1¼ cups) long white rice 450 ml (1¾ cups) water 2 tablespoons raisins 2 bay leaves ½ teaspoon turmeric ӯ 

* Rinse and drain the rice in several changes of water, being careful not to break the grains. Place the rice, water, raisins, bay leaves, and turmeric in a rice cooker or in a heavy-bottomed pot with a tight-fitting lid. Let it soak for 15 minutes before cooking. * Turn on the rice cooker. If using a pot, cover and bring to a boil on medium flame. As soon as it boils, turn down the flame to its lowest setting. Cook for about 15 minutes, or until the steam starts to dwindle, the water is absorbed, and the rice is tender. Turn off the flame and let it rest, covered, for 5 minutes before serving.

Brown & Black Rice This is one of my favourite rice combinations. Black rice is renowned for its health benefits, its nutty, earthy, taste, and its amazing colour! A small amount goes a long way. Black rice was once known in ancient China as “Forbidden Rice”, and was served only to the emperor. It’s not to be confused with wild rice varieties. Serves 4–6. 40 g (¼ cup) black sticky rice 220 g (1 cup) short or long grain brown rice 600 ml (2½ cups) water

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* Rinse the rice in several changes of water and drain. Place the rice and water in a rice cooker or in a heavy-bottomed pot with a tight-fitting lid. If you have time, let it soak for 30–60 minutes before cooking (optional). * Turn on the rice cooker. If using a pot, cover and bring to a boil on medium flame. As soon as it boils, turn down the flame to its lowest setting. Cook for about 45 minutes, or until the steam starts to dwindle, the water is absorbed, and the rice is tender. Black sticky rice is ready when the ends split open. Turn off the flame and let it rest, covered, for 10 minutes before serving.

Spiced White Rice This fragrant rice has all kinds of spices that complement curries and other Indian-style dishes. If using basmati rice, increase the water to 600 ml (2½  cups). Serves 4–6. 260 g (1¼ cups) basmati rice 2 teaspoons butter 2 bay leaves ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon fennel seeds ¼ teaspoon anise seeds ⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg Pinch of cloves 450 ml (1¾ cups) water

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* Rinse and drain the rice. In a stew pot on a low flame, melt and gently brown the butter. Add the bay leaves and rice grains, and then stir-fry until the grains start to blush. Add the cinnamon, cardamom, fennel seeds, anise seeds, nutmeg and clove, and stir-fry for one minute. When fragrant, add the water and bring to a boil on medium flame. As soon as it boils, turn down the flame to its lowest setting and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Cook for about 15 minutes, or until the steam starts to dwindle, the water is absorbed, and the rice is tender. Turn off the flame and let it rest, covered, for 10 minutes. Fluff before serving.

Couscous Couscous is made from durum wheat, which is a high-protein wheat. It’s perfect with vegetable stews and chickpea dishes. Serves 4–6. 260 g (1¼ cups) couscous 3 tablespoons sun dried raisins ½ teaspoon cinnamon or sumac Pinch of salt 330 ml (1¼ cups + 2 tablespoons) water ӯ 

* In a stew pot without any oil, roast the couscous on a low flame until a few grains turn golden. Add the raisins, cinnamon or sumac, and salt * In a separate pot, bring the water to a boil, pour over the couscous, and stir. Cover with a lid for 30 seconds. * Remove the lid and on a very low flame fold and fluff the couscous, working from the bottom and the sides, until all the water is absorbed and the couscous is light and fluffy.

Quinoa Quinoa, a small seed grown since ancient times in the Andes, was a favourite of the Aztecs.. High in protein with eight grams per cup, it is also very nutritious with nine amino acids and a high mineral content. Serves 4–6. 260 g (1¼ cups) quinoa, red or white 600 ml (2½ cups) water ӯ 

* Rinse and carefully drain the quinoa using a fine mesh sieve so as to not lose any grains. (Rinsing it will remove any bitterness.) * Place the quinoa and water in a rice cooker or in a heavy-bottomed pot with a tight-fitting lid. Let it soak for 15 minutes before cooking. * If using a pot, bring to a boil on a medium flame. As soon as it boils, cover with the lid and turn down the flame to its lowest setting. Cook for about 15 minutes until the steam starts to dwindle, the water is absorbed and the grains are tender. Turn off and let it rest, covered, for 10 minutes. Fluff before serving.

Jasmine Lemon Rice Delicate and light with a hint of lemon and butter, this rice has a certain summery brightness. Serves 4–6. 260 g (1¼ cups) jasmine white rice 450 ml (1¾ cups) water 1 teaspoon lemon zest 1 teaspoon butter Pinch of salt ӯ 

* Rinse and drain the rice in several changes of water, being careful not to break the grains. Place the rice, water, lemon zest, butter, and salt in a rice cooker or in a heavy-bottomed pot with a tight-fitting lid. Soak for 15 minutes. * Turn on the rice cooker. If using a pot, cover and bring to a boil on a medium flame. As soon as it boils, turn down the flame to its lowest setting. Cook for about 15 minutes, or until the steam starts to dwindle, all the water is absorbed, and the rice is tender. Let it rest, covered, for 5 minutes before serving.

Millet Millet is an ancient, full-bodied, seed like grain dating back to prehistoric times. It’s best with dishes that have a good sauce with them. Turmeric adds colour and a bit of fragrance to complement the nuttiness. Serves 4–6. 250 g (1¼ cups) millet 600 ml (2½ cups) water or Vegetable Stock (p. 258) ӯ 

* Rinse, drain, and toast the millet in a frying pan for 5 minutes to bring out the flavour. (Rinsing it will remove any bitterness.) Place it in a rice cooker with the water or vegetable stock. * If using a pot, cover and bring to a boil on a medium flame. As soon as it boils, turn down the flame to its lowest setting. Cook until all the water is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Turn off and let it rest for 10 minutes. Fluff before serving.

Bulgur Bulgur is a cracked wheat that is parboiled and dried, so it doesn’t need long to cook. It’s good with aubergine dishes and makes a great tabbouleh salad. Serves 4–6. 260 g (1¼ cups) bulgur 600 ml (2½ cups) water

ӯ 

* In a dry skillet, stir-fry the bulgur until a few grains turn golden (optional). * In a pot with a tight-fitting lid, bring the water to a boil, drop in the bulgur, return to a simmer, then remove from the flame and cover. Let it rest for 20 minutes, or until all the water is absorbed. Fluff before serving

Rice Noodles Rice noodles come in many sizes, from delicately thin to vast and wide. They are surprisingly easy to cook, much easier than one might think. Soak the noodles in hot, but not boiling water, and stir to release the threads from one another. If you don’t have a wok, a deep frying pan will do. 300 g (10 ounces) rice noodles 1½ litres (6 cups) hot water 1 tablespoon oil 4 cloves garlic, minced

20 g (2 tablespoons) ginger, minced Soy sauce to taste Sesame oil to taste 1 stem green onion, sliced thinly

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* Place the rice noodles in a heatproof bowl. Cover with hot, but not boiling water and stir well. When the rice noodles are soaked to al dente, about 10 minutes, drain in a colander. * In a nonstick wok, heat the oil with the garlic and ginger until they begin to colour and then add the drained noodles. Stir-fry the noodles while untangling them until they are hot and steaming. If necessary add a tablespoon of water, cover and steam the noodles for a minute, then continue to stir fry until done. * Toss with soy sauce and sesame oil, and garnish with the green onions.

Main Courses

Oven Roasted Vegetables with Tempeh It all started in the winter of 2000. Hojosan, our mentor, friend, and dharma uncle from Tokyo, was visiting us in Amsterdam for the first time. Because he was our very special guest, we went to the nicest restaurant we knew on the Lindengracht, Toscanini. A large group of us sat around a square table covered with a crisp, white tablecloth, and the appetizers that appeared were two large platters of thinly sliced, grilled vegetables. It was delicious. One day several months later, the only things sitting in the Zen River fridge were a random assortment of vegetables. While wondering what to do with them, I recalled that evening at Toscanini, and although we didn’t have a grill, this recipe came into being. After ten years of various seasoning combinations, it is now perfected and is one of the mainstays of the weekday meal. When this dish is served for lunch during sesshin, Shugetsu always passes by the kitchen clasping her hands over her tummy with a look of happiness in her eyes. That is what “oven veggies,” as we fondly refer to them, can do! 1 small aubergine (eggplant) 1 medium courgette (zucchini) 1 medium carrot ½ red bell pepper 150 g (1¼ cups) pumpkin and/or sweet potato 200 g (1 small crown) broccoli 125 g (1¼ cups) button mushrooms 1 medium red onion

3 medium cloves garlic 200 g (1¼ cups) tempeh 1 tablespoon dried basil 3½ tablespoons olive oil, divided 4 tablespoons soy sauce, divided 1 teaspoon salt ½ tablespoon balsamic vinegar Pinch of cloves ӯ 

* Preheat the oven to 210 °C (425 °F). * Cut the aubergine into thick rounds. Toss through 1 teaspoon of salt and set aside for 30 minutes. * Cut the courgette into thick rounds. * Cut the carrot into thin slices at a 45 degree angle. * Deseed and cut the bell peppers into triangular wedges. * Deseed and large-dice the pumpkin, or large-dice the sweet potato. * Cut the broccoli head into florets. Peel the whole stem making sure to get under the woody part. Slice the stem into thin rounds. Set aside. * Clean and trim the mushrooms leaving them whole. * Peel and slice the red onion into large wedges. * Peel and mince the garlic. * Cut the tempeh block, first into thin slices, and then into threes. * Rinse the salted aubergine and pat dry with a clean drying towel. ӯ 

* In a large bowl, coat all the vegetables, except for the broccoli, with the garlic, basil, and 3 tablespoons each of olive oil and soy sauce. Spread in a

single layer onto an oiled, nonstick baking sheet. * Combine the tempeh with 1 tablespoon soy sauce, ½ tablespoon olive oil, ½ tablespoon balsamic, and a pinch of cloves. Scatter on top of the vegetables. * Place on a lower rack in the oven and bake for about 30 minutes, or until a toothpick slides easily through the aubergine and pumpkin. * Bring a large pot of salted water to a rapid boil. Drop in the broccoli florets and stems and quickly return to a light boil. Drain. * Layer the baked vegetables with the broccoli onto a large platter. * Serve with Cashew Nut Dressing (p. 218) and Parmesan cheese. Complement with Pear and Rocket Salad (p. 216).

Carrot, Hijiki & Tofu in Tahini Sauce During one of my first Zen sesshins, carrots with hijiki and tofu were served in the second of three “oryoki” bowls. Having never eaten seaweed before (let alone oryoki-style), I wondered what on earth those black “boot laces” were. The black and orange together were stunning, and the dish delivered a lovely, seaside flavour. Later, we added tahini sauce to this recipe, which added depth and saltiness, reminiscent of the deep ocean. Frozen tofu has an interesting property. When frozen, little bubbles form inside. These cavities are perfect for catching the sauce. Serve with short grain brown rice and Gomasio (p. 192) 250 g (1½ cups) firm tofu (optional: frozen and defrosted) 5–7 g (3–4 tablespoons) dried hijiki seaweed 8–10 medium carrots 40 g (4 tablespoons) fresh ginger 3 medium cloves garlic

For the Baked Tofu:

1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon soy sauce

For the Tahini Sauce:

1 tablespoon oil for stir-frying 3 tablespoons soy sauce 70 ml (⅓ cup) tahini

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* Freeze the tofu for 48 hours and defrost. Preheat oven to 190 °C (375 °F). Large-dice the tofu and set it in a colander to drip dry for 20 minutes. Coat the tofu with 1 tablespoon each of soy sauce and olive oil. Place on an oiled baking sheet and bake for 25–30 minutes until crisp. * Alternatively, heat 1 tablespoon oil in a nonstick frying pan on a medium flame. Add the tofu and stir-fry until pale gold on the edges. Sear the tofu with 1 tablespoon of soy sauce. Turn down the flame and stir occasionally until crisp. * Soak the hijiki seaweed in a cupful of warm water for 20–30 minutes. It should almost triple in size when done. Drain and rinse. Then, using scissors, snip any long strands into 5 cm (2”) lengths. * Peel and cut the carrots into medium slices. * Peel and mince the ginger and garlic. ӯ 

* Tahini Sauce: In a stew pot on a low flame, stir-fry the ginger and garlic with the oil until golden and fragrant. Add the soy sauce and 150 ml (2/3 cup) of water. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes to release the ginger. Stir in the tahini. Heat and stir until smooth, then remove from the flame. Stir in the hijiki. (Reheat later if needed, but don’t let it boil or the hijiki may fall apart.) Season to taste with soy sauce. * Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and throw in the carrots. Return to a boil over a high flame, turn down, cover and simmer until al dente, about 1 minute depending on the size of the carrots. (If you prefer, steam cook the carrots.) Drain the carrots, reserving the water for soup, and combine with the tahini sauce. Fold in the tofu and serve alongside brown rice.

Sesame Stir-Fried Vegetables When there are guests, this recipe, served alongside sesame pasta, always wins the day. The secret is to not overcook the greens; they will keep their bright colour only if the temperature stays around 80 °C (175 °F). As our Japanese friend, Koichi-san, explains, chlorophyll (which also makes green tea truly green) loses its colour when the temperature gets too high. Just keep the vegetables covered until you are ready to serve them and you will have a nice, festive, colourful dish, perfect for a sunny day. 2 medium carrots 1 medium courgette (zucchini) 1 red bell pepper 200 g (1 small crown) broccoli 125 g (1½ cups) snow peas 2 stems green onions 2–3 tablespoons dried hijiki seaweed 3 medium cloves garlic 35 g (3½ tablespoons) fresh ginger

250 g (1½ cups) firm tofu 2 teaspoons soy sauce for the tofu 2 tablespoons sunflower oil

Sauce

1½ tablespoons roasted sesame oil 1½ tablespoons soy sauce 1½ tablespoons rice vinegar ½ teaspoon sugar (optional)

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* Peel and cut the carrots into matchstick style slices. Cut the courgette and red bell pepper into matchstick style slices. Cut the broccoli head into small florets. Peel the woody part off the broccoli stem and cut it into matchstick style slices. Trim the snow peas. Clean and thinly slice the green onions at a sharp angle * Soak the hijiki seaweed in a cupful of warm water for 20–30 minutes. It should almost triple in size when done. Drain and rinse. * Peel and mince the ginger, and then the garlic. * Medium-dice the tofu. ӯ 

* Heat 2 tablespoons of sunflower oil in a non-stick frying pan on a medium flame. Add the tofu and stir-fry until pale gold on the edges. Sear the tofu with 2 teaspoons of soy sauce. Turn down the flame and stir occasionally until crispy and golden, about 10 minutes. Set aside. * Bring a pot of salted water to a rapid boil over a high flame. Put in the carrots and return to a boil. Cook until crispy tender, about 1 minute. Scoop out with a slotted spoon and set aside in a colander. Repeat with the snow peas, peppers, and courgette. Next, drop in the broccoli florets and stems and return to a boil. Cook for a few seconds, or until crispy tender. Drain well. * In a frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of sesame oil on a medium flame. Stirfry the garlic and half the ginger until fragrant. Remove from the flame and stir in the rice vinegar, sugar, and 2 tablespoons soy sauce. Combine with the vegetables, tofu, hijiki, green onions, the remaining ginger and the cooked tofu. * Serve immediately alongside Sesame Pasta (p. 169).

Cauliflower Coconut Cream Karma Korma One of my favourites from student days was the vegetable korma found in the night haunts of Indian restaurants that stayed open until dawn. This recipe is an accidental vegan approach to its namesake. Mild and spicy, the pale creamy sauce is a lovely canvas for the white cauliflower, red peppers, black raisins, purple onions, and yellow chickpeas. If more servings are needed, a few cooked carrots, potatoes, or green beans work well and add a touch of sunshine orange or summer green freshness. 1 small cauliflower 1 red bell pepper 1 medium red onion 40 g (4 tablespoons) fresh ginger 3 medium cloves garlic 25–30 green cardamom pods, or 1½ –2 teaspoons ground 400 ml (1¾ cups) coconut milk 400 ml (1¾ cups) water 175 g (1¼ cups) cashew nuts Pinch of cayenne pepper, to taste 250 g (1½ cups) cooked chickpeas. rinsed and drained 3 tablespoons black raisins 3–4 bay leaves 2 tablespoons sunflower or olive oil ӯ 

* Cut the cauliflower into bite-sized florets. * Deseed and slice the red pepper into triangular wedges. * Peel and slice the onions into moon-shaped wedges, cutting along the grain. * Peel and mince the ginger and garlic. * Grind the whole cardamom pods in a dedicated coffee grinder or with a pestle and mortar until the hulls fall off and the seeds are coarsely ground. Remove the hulls. ӯ 

* Heat the oil in a stew pot on medium flame. Add and stir-fry the red pepper and red onions until they are caramelized on the edges, about 8 minutes. Remove from the stew pot and set aside. * In the same stew pot and using the same oil, add the ginger and garlic together with the cardamom seeds. Stir-fry for about one minute. * When fragrant, add the coconut milk, water, cashew nuts, and cayenne pepper. Continue to heat and blend until smooth with an immersion blender. * Add the cooked chickpeas, raisins, and the bay leaves. * Reduce the heat to low and simmer gently, covered, for 10 minutes or more, stirring often to prevent sticking. * Add the cooked red pepper and red onion. Salt to taste.

* Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and quickly drop in half the cauliflower. On a high flame, bring back to a boil, simmer one minute or until crispy tender, and then scoop out with a slotted spoon. Put the cooked cauliflower in a colander to drip dry. Repeat with the rest of the cauliflower. * Add the parboiled cauliflower to the cashew nut sauce. * Serve with white or brown rice, and Spiced Apple Chutney (p. 196).

Flash Roasted Courgette & Tempeh This dish is one of Tenkei’s all time favourites. Because each serving requires two medium courgette, it’s especially brilliant when copious amounts of courgette are coming in from the garden. The oven needs to be really hot. (Alternatively, use a frying pan set over a high flame and fry a single layer of courgette at a time.) Courgette cook fast, so pay attention! When served as a side dish, omit the tempeh. 8–10 medium courgette (zucchini) 2 medium red onions 3 medium cloves garlic 250 g (1½ cups) tempeh

3 tablespoons soy sauce, divided 3 tablespoons olive oil. divided Pinch of cloves ӯ 

* Preheat the oven 220 °C (425 °F). * Clean and slice the courgette into very thin slices. * Peel and slice the red onion into medium-sized slices. * Peel and mince the garlic. * Cut the tempeh block, first into thin slices, and then into threes. ӯ 

* Spread a thin layer of olive oil on a large baking tray. * Combine the courgette, red onions, garlic with 2 tablespoons each of soy sauce and olive oil. Make sure all the courgette are covered equally. * Spread the mix in a single layer on the baking tray. * Toss the tempeh with 1 tablespoon each of olive oil and soy sauce, and a pinch of cloves. Scatter on top of the courgette. Bake on the lowest rack in the oven for 20–30 minutes. You may also bake it on the floor of the oven, until the courgette turns golden underneath. This can go quite quickly, so keep a close watch.

Black Bean Chocolate Chilli

In America, oh, did we learn to appreciate chilli! While at Kanzeon Zen Center in Salt Lake City, one of the members cooked a great big pot of it and I was hooked. This recipe is not quite as authentic, but just as addictive. If you like it spicy, use dried, crushed chillies fried with the onions, and throw in fresh coriander at the end. Any leftovers make a great soup when thinned. Oddly enough, when I spent three months in a Japanese monastery, despite all the wonderful delicacies there, this was one meal I would often daydream about. 350 g (1¾ cups) dried black beans 1–2 chillies, any kind 1 large onion 2 green bell peppers 1 medium carrot (optional) 3 medium cloves garlic 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons dried oregano ½ teaspoon chilli powder, (chilli chipotle) or to taste ½ teaspoon cinnamon

2 tablespoons oil for frying 2 tablespoons plain, non sweet cocoa powder 2½ tablespoons tomato paste 1 teaspoon paprika powder ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika powder (Pimentón de la Vera) 1 teaspoon lime juice or ½ teaspoon mild vinegar Salt to taste Small bunch fresh coriander (cilantro) * Soak the black beans overnight in triple the amount of cold water. ӯ 

* Deseed and mince the chillies. * Peel and small-dice the onion and, if using, peel and small-dice the carrot. * Deseed and small-dice the green bell peppers. * Peel and mince the garlic. ӯ 

* Drain the black beans, rinse, put in a big pot and cover with about 4 cm (2”) of fresh water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and gently simmer, covered, for about 1–2½ hours, or until the beans are very soft. Skim any foam as it appears. Add more water as needed to keep the beans submerged. The beans and water should be at about the same level when finished cooking. * In a stew pot, heat the oil on a medium flame. Add the onions, bell peppers, chillies, and carrots, and stir often. When they begin to brown, add the garlic and a pinch of salt. Stir-fry a few minutes more. * Add the cumin, oregano, chilli powder, and cinnamon. Stir-fry for 30 seconds. Turn down the heat and add 50 ml (¼ cup) of water. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the onions, peppers, and carrots become soft. * Scoop in the cooked black beans along with an equal amount of the water they cooked in. (Discard the excess water or save it for soup.) Then, stir in the cocoa powder, tomato paste, paprika powder, lime juice, 1 tablespoon of the chopped fresh coriander if using, and salt. * Add a pinch more cumin, oregano, chilli, and cinnamon to taste. * Cover and simmer on a low flame for 20–25 minutes, stirring now and then to prevent sticking. Finish with 1 teaspoon of smoked paprika powder. * Serve with Flour Tortillas (p. 62), shredded iceberg lettuce, sour cream, Salsa (p. 102, p. 200), plain corn chips, grated cheese, Guacamole (p. 201), and lots of roughly chopped fresh coriander.

Fresh Tomato Salsa Chilli is not quite complete without the prerequisite salsa. Here is a simple version we often make, based on one that Liz in Taos made for us once:–) 3–4 medium vine tomatoes ⅛ green bell pepper (2 tablespoons) ⅛ red onion (2 tablespoons) Few sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro) ⅛ teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste ⅛ teaspoon smoked paprika powder (Pimentón de la Vera), or to taste ¼ teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar or lime juice Salt to taste ӯ 

* Prick the tomatoes with a sharp knife and place in a heatproof bowl. Cover with boiling water and wait for the peel to split, anywhere between 30 seconds and 3 minutes, depending on the size and ripeness of the tomatoes. Drain, peel, and small-dice. * Deseed and mince the green bell pepper. * Peel and mince the red onion. * Coarsely mince the fresh coriander. * Mix all the ingredients together. * Besides serving with chilli, spread on quesadilla or use as a dipping sauce with corn tortilla chips.

Middle Eastern-Style Minced Soya & Pita

Tenkei always loves the flavours of Middle Eastern cuisine, maybe because they are reminiscent of his early, pre-Zen travels. Middle Eastern or otherwise, the mint and coriander combined with tomato and other spices give this dish its wonderfully aromatic flavour. The taste is divine, yet ever so simple to prepare, especially if pita bread is at hand. Skip the fresh coriander if it’s not to your taste, or serve on the side. 120 g (2 cups) organic dried soya mince 1 tablespoon white vinegar 3 medium cloves garlic 3 medium onions 3 bell peppers 3 medium carrots Small bunch fresh coriander (cilantro) 6 sprigs fresh mint or 4 teaspoons dry 3–4 tablespoons tomato paste 1¼ teaspoons ground cinnamon 1¼ teaspoons ground coriander 1¼ teaspoons ground cumin ⅛ teaspoon ground chillies, or to taste 2–3 tablespoons olive oil

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* Put the dried soya mince and vinegar together in a heatproof bowl. Cover with hot water and soak until the soya mince is soft, about 15 minutes. Drain well and set aside. * Peel and mince the garlic. * Peel and thinly slice the onions. * Deseed and julienne the bell peppers * Peel and julienne the carrots. * Chop the fresh coriander. * Remove the mint leaves from the stem and chop coarsely. ӯ 

* In a stew pot on medium flame, heat the oil and brown the onions with the bell peppers, then add the carrots and garlic. Stir-fry until the carrots are tender. Add the fresh coriander and mint and stir-fry for 30 seconds. * Put in all the spices, the drained soya mince, and tomato paste. Heat while stirring for about 10 minutes to marry the flavours. Season to taste. * Serve with Pita Bread (p. 60), Yogurt Garlic Sauce (see below), or Classic Hummus (p. 207), and shredded cos or romaine lettuce.

Yogurt Garlic Sauce Combine: 250 ml (1 cup) natural full-fat yogurt 1 small clove garlic, pressed

Dash of ground chilli or cayenne Dash of white pepper Salt to taste

Sweet & Sour with Omelette Strips There is something mysterious about including cucumber in a sweet and sour dish. During the time we attended a big ceremony at Tendoji temple in Ningbo, China, Hojosan arranged a short sightseeing trip. At the restaurants en route, where there were often just as many waiters standing as there were guests sitting, cucumber made a regular, somewhat unexpected appearance. So one day I thought I’d give this combination a whirl. The delicate sweet and sour flavour comes from the marriage of five-spice powder and, yes, stir-fried cucumber. 12 cloud or tree ear fungi 125 g (1½ cups) beansprouts 1 medium red onion 1 green bell pepper 3 medium carrots 1 short or ⅓ long cucumber 1 head bok choi 2 stems green onions 2 free–range eggs 150 g (½ cup) water chestnuts 1 tablespoon cashew nuts (optional) 1 tablespoon sesame oil Sunflower oil for frying

Sweet Sour Sauce

1 tablespoon sunflower oil 3 medium cloves garlic 40 g (4 tablespoons) fresh ginger 125 ml (½ cup) water 2 tablespoons soy sauce 3 tablespoons tomato paste 4 tablespoons brown sugar 6 tablespoons rice vinegar 1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder Pinch of white pepper 2 teaspoons corn starch dissolved in 1 tablespoon cold water

* Cover the cloud fungi in fresh water. They will swell eight times their size. * Peel and cut the red onion into wedges. * Deseed and cut the bell pepper into medium triangular wedges. * Peel and cut the carrots into thin diagonal slices. * Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and cut into thick diagonal slices. * Cut the white bok choi stems into thick diagonal slices and put in one bowl. Cut the green leafy part into large pieces and put in another bowl. * Cut the green onions into thin rounds. * Peel and mince the garlic and ginger. * Crack the eggs and whisk them with a tablespoon of water and a teaspoon each of the minced garlic and ginger. ӯ 

* To make the sweet sour sauce, heat a stew pot or wok on medium flame with 1 tablespoon of sunflower oil. Add the remaining garlic and ginger and stir-fry until fragrant. Pour in the water and simmer for 5 minutes. Then stir in the soy sauce, tomato paste, brown sugar, rice vinegar, Chinese five-spice powder and white pepper. * In a small bowl, whisk the corn starch into a smooth paste with a tablespoon of cold water. Pour into the sweet sour sauce and stir continuously until thickened. Take off the heat and cover with a lid to keep it hot. (The sauce can also be made the day before and stored in the fridge; then reheat.) ӯ 

* Heat 1 tablespoon of sunflower oil in a frying pan on medium flame and brown the red onions and bell peppers with a pinch of salt. Set aside. Add a little more oil and stir-fry the cucumber until lightly browned on the edges. Set aside with the onions and peppers. Repeat with the bok choi leaves. * To make the omlettes, in a large nonstick frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of sunflower oil on a medium flame. Pour in half the eggs and tilt the frying pan to create a very thin omelette. Let it cook and set without touching it. Flip over and cook for a few seconds. Slide onto a plate and cut into thin strips. Repeat with the remaining egg, adding more oil if necessary. * Bring a pot of salted water to a rapid boil. Throw in the carrots and bring back to a boil. Cook for one minute or less, until al dente. Scoop out with a large slotted spoon and set aside in a colander. * Next, throw in the bok choi stems for 30 seconds. Scoop out with the slotted spoon and set aside with the carrots.Turn off the cooking water, reserving it for soup stock. * Place the stew pot on a low flame and bring the sauce back to a simmer with the cloud fungi and water chestnuts. As soon as it simmers, put in all the vegetables, drained beansprouts, and the omelette strips. Turn off the flame. * Drizzle with sesame oil and garnish with the green onions and cashew nuts. * Serve alongside brown rice.

Roasted Cinnamon Pumpkin If you like pumpkin, this is lovely. If not, you may be converted. 1½ kg (3 pounds) orange pumpkin 1 red bell pepper (optional) 1 tablespoon olive oil 2–3 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon sea salt 100 g (¾ cup) whole roasted almonds

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* Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F). * Clean, deseed, peel if the skin is hard, and large-dice the pumpkin. * Deseed and cut the red bell pepper into large triangular wedges. ӯ 

* Combine the pumpkin and bell pepper with the olive oil, cinnamon, and salt. * Spread out on an oiled baking sheet, preferably with the pumpkin skins touching the tray. Bake on a low rack in a preheated oven for 30 minutes, or until the edges caramelize and a toothpick slides easily through a piece of pumpkin. Scatter with the almond. Serve alongside short grain brown rice.

Rich Red Pasta Sauce with Lentils Hardly a month goes by without a rich red tomato sauce appearing on the menu. Initially, I was never very good at making them, even though they can be very simple. This is partly because there is such a delicate balance between the acidity of the tomatoes, the sweetness of the herbs, and the mildness of the vegetables. Genpo Roshi loved a good pasta sauce and I discovered he was particularly fond of one that included capers and olives, which surprised me no end! And so began the experiment. One thing I discovered is that the sometimes excessive acidity of tomatoes can be easily reduced with a pinch of baking soda, while a tiny dash of red wine vinegar added later brightens the sauce. The lentils further soften and add protein. Any leftovers make a great sauce for pizza when pureed together with an immersion blender. 100 g (½ cup) red lentils 1 medium aubergine (eggplant) 1 medium red onion 1 large carrot 1 green bell pepper 1 medium courgette (zucchini) 3 medium cloves garlic 100 g (½ cup) black olives, drained 2 tablespoons capers 800 ml (3 cups) chopped canned tomatoes (about 2 cans) Pinch of baking soda

2 tablespoons dried basil 1 tablespoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2½ tablespoons tomato paste 1 teaspoon lemon zest 2–3 teaspoons red wine vinegar ½ teaspoon smoked paprika powder (Pimentón de la Vera) 3 tablespoons of olive oil Salt to taste

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* Pick through and rinse the lentils. Cover with double the amount of boiling water and soak for about 30 minutes. * Medium-dice the aubergine and sprinkle with a teaspoon of salt. * Peel and medium-dice the onion and carrot. * Medium-dice the bell pepper and courgette. * Mince the garlic. * Slice the olives and drain the capers. * Using an immersion blender, puree the chopped tomatoes along with the baking soda to remove some of the acidity. ӯ 

* In a large pot, bring the pureed tomatoes to a gentle simmer over a medium flame. Drain the lentils and stir well into the bubbling tomato sauce. Reduce the flame and simmer until the lentils are tender, about 30–35 minutes. Add a little water if needed. Stir regularly to prevent sticking. If you prefer a smoother sauce, whizz the lentils and tomatoes with an immersion blender, but only after the lentils have cooked. * In a frying pan, heat the olive oil on a medium flame. Put in the onions and bell peppers and sauté until they are lightly caramelized on the edges. Set aside in a large bowl.

* In the same frying pan sauté the carrots until they start to soften and turn golden on the edges, about 5 minutes. When the carrots are tender, add the garlic and sauté until it releases its fragrance. Set aside with the onions and bell peppers. * Rinse, drain and pat the aubergine dry with a clean kitchen towel. Put the aubergine into the frying pan, adding more oil if needed, and sauté until the white flesh softens and starts to develop dark, caramelized flecks. Set aside. * Next, sauté the courgette for about 2 minutes, sprinkle in the basil, oregano, and chilli powder and stir-fry for a few seconds then add the Worcestershire sauce and soy sauce. Set aside with the rest of the vegetables. * Combine the vegetables, tomato paste, lemon zest, red wine vinegar, and capers with the sauce. Stir well. Simmer for 15–20 minutes on a low flame. * Season with salt to taste. * Stir in the smoked paprika powder and sliced olives. * Serve alongside Lemony Spaghetti (p. 181).

Brussels Sprouts with Spicy Peanut Sauce Many people say they don’t like brussels sprouts, but I suspect that’s because they never had them cooked nicely! This recipe persuaded one of our members to try them for the first time saying, “Oh! They are good! Just like little cabbages! Amazing!”

Peanut Sauce 2 medium cloves garlic 25 g (2½ tablespoons) fresh ginger 1 tablespoon Madras curry powder ½ teaspoon ground cardamom ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground coriander ½ teaspoon ground turmeric 350 ml (1½ cups) cold water 20 g (2 tablespoons) palm sugar, or dark brown sugar 200 ml (¾ cup) unsweetened coconut milk (about half a can) 200 g (¾ cup) peanut butter, smooth or crunchy 2 teaspoons soy sauce ½ teaspoon lime juice or mild vinegar Dash of sea salt, to taste Pinch of ground hot chillies, or to taste 1 tablespoon sunflower oil ӯ 

* Peel and mince the ginger and garlic. * In a stew pot, heat the oil on medium flame. When hot, put in the garlic and ginger. Stir-fry until fragrant and a bit golden on the edges. * Add the curry powder, cardamom, cinnamon, coriander, and turmeric, and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Then put in the water, palm sugar, coconut milk, peanut butter, soy sauce, and lime juice or vinegar. Return to a boil, stirring all the time. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Stir occasionally. Thin with water if needed. Can be made ahead of time. 500 g (4 cups) unprepared brussels sprouts 1 red bell pepper 1 sweet potato 3 medium cloves garlic 2 tablespoons oil, divided

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Soy Slices

50 g (1 cup) dried soya slices or; 150 g (1 cup) fresh tempeh 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon vinegar Dash Chinese Five Spice powder

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* Trim the stalk and peel the outer leaves from the brussels sprouts. * Deseed and cut the bell pepper into triangles. * Peel and medium-dice the sweet potato. * Peel and mince the garlic. * Cover the dried soya slices with hot water along with 1 tablespoon of vinegar. Soak until they soften, about 15 minutes. Drain well. * In a frying pan on medium flame, heat 1 tablespoon of oil. When hot, add the bell pepper and stir-fry until it caramelize on the edges. Set aside. * Add 1 tablespoon oil to the frying pan, put in the soya slices and stir-fry until they start to brown. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of soy sauce and let it evaporate. Add the garlic and stir-fry until the garlic becomes fragrant. Stir in a dash

of Chinese Five Spice. Set aside. * Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and drop in the sweet potatoes. Return to a boil and simmer for about 4 minutes, until a toothpick easily slides through the middles. Scoop out with a slotted spoon. Next, drop in the sprouts, bring back to a boil, and simmer until a wooden skewer slides through the middles easily, about 2–3 minutes depending on their size. Be careful not to overcook them or they will become bitter. Drain well. * Carefully toss the sprouts, peppers, and sweet potatoes with the soya slices. * Serve alongside rice, and fresh chillies sliced and stir–fried in a little oil for 5 minutes.

Honey-Roasted Vegetable Chips “This is the first time ever that I’ve liked eating parsnips!” exclaimed Wynn. They can taste wonderful when roasted. The honey in the marinade makes this especially so. If tempeh is hard to get, then try nuts, tofu or Quorn products as a substitute. Both pumpkin and beetroot work well in this dish if other vegetables are hard to find – as does the humble brussels sprout. If you need to adapt the recipe to what is at hand, simply weigh out approximately 1¼ kg (2½ pounds) of root vegetables of your choice to make 4 large or 6 medium servings. 3 medium parsnips 3 medium carrots 2–3 medium sweet potatoes 3 medium cloves garlic 100 g (¾ cup) roasted almonds or 200 g (2 cups) tempeh 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon nutmeg ӯ 

* Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F). * Peel and cut the parsnips into finger-sized pieces. * Peel and cut the carrots into finger-sized pieces. * Peel and cut the sweet potatoes into finger-sized pieces. * Peel and mince the garlic. * If using tempeh, cut into thin slices. Then cut the slices into about 3 cm (1”) squares. ӯ 

* In a large mixing bowl, combine the olive oil, honey, soy sauce, cinnamon, nutmeg and garlic. * Stir in the parsnips, carrots, sweet potato, and tempeh if using. * Place in one layer on an oiled baking sheet. * Bake in the oven for 25–30 minutes, or until the carrots and parsnips are sweetly tender and caramelized underneath. * Remove the vegetables from the oven, scatter with the almonds, and carefully transfer onto a serving platter. * Serve alongside brown rice, and Beetroot Salad (p. 219) drizzled with Winter Salad Dressing (p. 219).

Pumpkin with Red Curry Sauce While visiting Dorinda, a good old friend in London, we went to her local Indian restaurant for dinner. Spoiled for choice, we decided she should just order her favourites. This amazing pumpkin curry appeared. The exact recipe remains a mystery, but this is an attempt to recreate the experience. To get a sense of it, serve alongside dhal, chutney, and raita. If pumpkins are out of season, carrots, or other root vegetables, would suffice.

Baked Pumpkin

1½ kg (3 pounds) kabocha or sugar pumpkin 3 tablespoons olive oil ¾ teaspoon cinnamon Sea salt ½ teaspoon ground cardamom ½ teaspoon ground coriander ½ teaspoon garam masala ¼ teaspoon aniseed seeds Pinch of cloves 20 g (2 tablespoons) shaved palm sugar, or brown sugar 1 teaspoon lemon juice or white wine vinegar Few sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro)

Curry Sauce

2 tablespoons oil 35 g (3½ tablespoons) fresh ginger 3 medium cloves garlic 800 ml (3 cups) canned diced tomatoes (about 2 cans) 1–2 tablespoons Madras curry powder, to taste 1 teaspoon cinnamon

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* Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F). * Clean, deseed, and large-dice the pumpkin. * Peel and mince the ginger and garlic. * Blend the cans of tomatoes until smooth. ӯ 

* Combine the pumpkin with 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon of cinnamon, and a little sea salt. Place in a single layer on a baking tray and bake in the oven on a low rack for 30 minutes, or until a skewer slides in easily. * To make the curry sauce, heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a stew pot on medium flame. When hot, put in the garlic and ginger and stir-fry until fragrant. Stir in the tomatoes, curry powder, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, garam masala, aniseed, clove, palm sugar, and lemon juice. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes. * When the baked pumpkin is ready, place it in a serving bowl and ladle the sauce over it, reserving a few pieces for garnish. * Garnish with the chopped fresh coriander and reserved pumpkin. Serve alongside Lentil Dhal (p. 121), Spiced Apple Chutney (p. 196), and Yogurt Mint Raita, or Yogurt Cumin Raita (p. 203).

*. )(

Yellow Lentil Curry Dhal with Cumin Seeds No time to cook? Then this requires very little preparation and warms up a cold winter evening or cools down a hot summer day. Liven it up and serve with Tzatziki (p. 198), Tomato Salad (p. 199), Spiced Apple Chutney (p. 196), cooked spinach and rice. Make it as thin or as thick as you like – stew or soup, both are fine. If you wish, add a teaspoon of savory to aid digestion. It’s a saving grace for anyone who likes to eat legumes, but daren’t. Using a pressure cooker will speed up the cooking time. 500 g (2¼ cups) chana lentils, or split mung lentils 1¼ litres (5 cups) water 3–4 bay leaves ½ teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon turmeric

⅛ teaspoon ground chillies or cayenne pepper 2 medium cloves garlic 25 g (2½ tablespoons) fresh ginger 1 tablespoon oil 1½ teaspoons whole cumin seeds 1 teaspoon lemon juice (optional)

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* Check the lentils for grit and stones, rinse several times and then drain. ӯ 

* In a large pot on medium flame, bring the water to a boil with the bay leaves, cinnamon, turmeric, and ground chillies or cayenne pepper. Put in the lentils and return to a boil stirring constantly. Reduce the flame, cover, and simmer until soft and tender, about 35–40 minutes for mung lentils and 50 minutes–1 hour for chana lentils. If using a pressure cooker, cook mung lentils for 5 minutes and chana for 10 minutes using quick release method (p. 312). * Peel and mince the garlic and ginger. * In a frying pan, heat the oil. Add the cumin seeds and stir-fry until dark and sizzling. Stir in the garlic and ginger and stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Set aside. * When the lentils are cooked, stir in the cumin seeds, ginger, garlic, and lemon. Stirring will also help thicken the lentils if they are still too wet.

Big Fat White Beans in Red, Red Sauce I was inspired while visiting a Mexican friend of ours in Madrid. This fresh tomato and red bell pepper sauce came about after indulging in her homemade huevos rancheros. There are no chillies in this version, so it is rather mild. The beans came later and were simply the perfect contrast to the loveliness of the sauce. Rocket provides some fresh green colour to accentuate the reds, but skip it if you prefer something simpler. 350 g (2¼ cups) dried large white butter beans 6 medium, ripe tomatoes 3 medium cloves garlic 2 medium red onions 2 red bell peppers

2 tablespoons olive oil 1–2 teaspoons lemon zest ½ teaspoon chilli powder ½ teaspoon paprika powder

¼ teaspoon smoked paprika powder (Pimentón de la Vera) Sea salt to taste 70 g (1 cup) rocket (arugula) or fresh spinach leaves

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* Soak the butter beans overnight in plenty of water. The next day, drain, cover with ample fresh water and cook for about 1½ hours, or until tender, adding more water as needed. To cook in a pressure cooker, cover with 3 cm (1½”) of water and cook at high pressure for about 25–30 minutes. Turn off the flame and let it rest for 10 minutes before releasing the pressure. * Prick the tomatoes with a sharp knife and place in a heatproof bowl. Cover with boiling water and wait for the peel to split, anywhere between 30 seconds and 3 minutes, depending on the size and ripeness of the tomatoes. Drain, peel, and slice into quarters. * Peel the garlic and leave the cloves whole. * Peel and slice the red onions into large pieces. * Slice the bell peppers into large pieces. ӯ 

* In a stew pot on medium flame, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil and sauté the red onions, red bell peppers, and the garlic cloves until they all caramelize. * Next, add the tomatoes and simmer for 20 minutes. * Whizz with an immersion blender until smooth. Season with lemon zest, chilli powder, and paprika powder. * Drain the cooked butter beans and add to the red sauce. Simmer for 10 minutes or more to marry the flavours. Salt to taste. * Just before serving, stir in the smoked paprika powder and top with fresh rocket, torn into short pieces. Serve with pasta and Parmesan cheese.

Spanish-Style Saffron Lentils This is one of my favourite recipes. I’m not sure if one should really call it Spanish, but the sophisticated mildness of aioli - which is - adds a special touch to the lentils already imbued with the dry, pungent flavour of saffron, the brightness of oregano, and the smokiness of Pimentón de la Vera (smoked paprika powder).

200 g (1 cup) red lentils 1 medium onion 2 medium carrots 1 courgette (zucchini) 1 green bell pepper 125 g (1¼ cups) mushrooms 3 medium cloves garlic A generous pinch of saffron* threads 800 ml (3 cups) canned diced tomatoes (about 2 cans)

250 ml (1 cup) water 3 bay leaves 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons dried oregano ½ teaspoon dried thyme 1 teaspoon paprika 3 tablespoons fresh parsley, minced, or 1 tablespoon dried Dash of smoked paprika powder (Pimentón de la Vera)

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* Pick through and rinse the lentils. Cover with double the amount of boiling water and soak for about 30 minutes. * Peel and small-dice the onion and carrots, and small-dice the courgette. * Deseed and small-dice the bell peppers. * Clean, trim, and slice the mushrooms. * Peel and mince the garlic. ӯ 

* Heat a frying pan on medium flame and then turn off the heat. Sprinkle in the saffron and let it toast. Crush with a wooden spoon or between 2 folds of aluminium foil. Put in a small bowl and soak in a little hot water for 20 minutes, or even overnight. * In a large pot, bring the canned tomatoes and water to a boil with the saffron, saffron water, and bay leaves. * Drain the red lentils and add to the tomatoes, stirring until it returns to a boil. Turn down to a low flame and simmer with the lid on for about 25–35 minutes, or until the lentils are tender. Stir occasionally, remembering to scrape the bottom of the pot to prevent sticking. * Meanwhile, in a stew pot heat the olive oil over a medium flame. Add the onion, carrots, bell peppers, oregano, and thyme, and sauté until the carrots are tender and the onion begins to caramelize on the edges. * Add the garlic and sauté until it releases its fragrance. * Next, add the mushrooms and courgette and sauté until the mushrooms start to shine and darken in colour. * Combine the vegetables with the cooked lentils. * Add the regular ground paprika powder. * Simmer together for 5 minutes. Season to taste. * Just before serving, stir in the dried or fresh parsley and smoked paprika. * Serve with short grain white rice, and Mock Aioli (p. 197).

*If saffron is hard to come by, try using a sachet of Paella Spice Seasoning mix

Japanese-Style Braised Vegetables Reminiscent of temple stays in Japan, where all varieties of vegetables are cooked in a slightly sweet and salty stock, this recipe is loosely based on “Nimono”, a common home-style recipe. Lotus and burdock roots are typically found in Asian cuisine. However, in the west, burdock is better known for its use in beverages and tonics, and its rich history in traditional medicine. It can still be found growing wild, and its burrs are the inspiration for Velcro! If you are curious, try getting these long skinny roots at your local Asian market and cook them with the other vegetables. Otherwise, stick with easy to find vegetables such as carrots, pumpkins, potatoes and cabbage, as indicated here. Basically, any kind of root vegetable will work in this dish.

Stock (Dashi)

400 ml (1¾ cups) water 2 teaspoons sugar 2 tablespoons mirin (or ½ teaspoon sugar with 2 tablespoons white wine, dry sherry, or rice vinegar) 2 tablespoons sake (or dry sherry, or white grape juice) 1 x 6 cm (4”) square of kombu seaweed (dried edible kelp) 4 dried shitake mushrooms (20 g)

Tofu & Vegetables

250 g (1½ cups) firm organic tofu 2 medium onions 3 medium carrots 2 medium potatoes 1 burdock root (optional) ¼ cabbage, domestic or curly 60 g (¾ cup) snow peas 1 tablespoon olive oil 3–4 tablespoons soy sauce 1½ teaspoons salt for the cooking water

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* In a large stock pot over a medium flame, combine the water, sugar, mirin, and sake with the shitake and kombu. When it starts to boil, remove the

kombu and set aside. Reduce the flame and simmer the stock, uncovered, for 15 minutes, or until it is reduced by about a quarter. Scoop out the shitake, cut off any hard stems, slice into quarters, and return to the stock pot. * While the stock is simmering, gently press any excess water from the tofu and cut into 1 cm (½”) triangles. * Peel and cut the onion into medium wedges. * Peel and cut the carrots and potatoes into large triangular wedges. Cover the potatoes with fresh water to remove any surface starch. * If using, peel the burdock, cut into very thin slices and cover with water. * Slice the cabbage into 3 cm (1¼”) squares. * Trim the snow peas and cut in half diagonally. * Cut the kombu into squares. * Bring a large pot of salted water to a rapid boil, drop in the carrots and simmer for about 4 minutes or until tender, and scoop out with a slotted spoon. Set aside. Do the same with the potatoes, about 4 minutes, then the burdock, about 10–12 minutes. * Next, drop in the cabbage, return to a boil over a high flame and cook for 1 minute, scoop out, and put into a colander to drip-dry. Cover. Do the same with the snow peas and cook for 30 seconds; then with the tofu, simmering it for 1 minute before scooping out. (Reserve the cooking water for soup stock.) * In a frying pan heat the olive oil over a medium flame and stir-fry the onions until caramelized. Add the cooked carrots and potatoes and stir-fry for a few minutes. Transfer to the stock pot with the stock, shitake and kombu. * Bring everything in the stock pot to a gentle simmer, turn the flame down low, cover and simmer for about 5 minutes to marry the flavours and tenderize the onions. Put in the kombu, then add the soy sauce to taste. * Just before serving, gently fold in the cabbage, snow peas, and tofu. * Serve with some stock poured over the top, accompanied by sushi rice.

Chickpea Tajine with Mint & Orange This Moroccan themed recipe found it’s way to sesshins a long time ago, thanks to my husband, Tenkei, and our dharma friends Catherine and Michel. Twenty-five years later, this recipe is still going strong. Having undergone a variety of face lifts, it’s finally settled on an orange and mint infused sauce. It’s simultaneously a little bit piquant, a little bit spicy and a little bit fruity. 3 medium carrots 1 medium courgette (zucchini) 1 medium red onion 2 red bell peppers 3 medium cloves garlic 1 small bunch of parsley 75 g (¼ cup) prunes 2 tablespoons olive oil 250 ml (1 cup) orange juice 400 ml (1¾ cups) chopped canned tomatoes (about 1 can) 1 tablespoon tomato paste

250 g (1½ cups) cooked chickpeas rinsed and drained 1 teaspoon honey or brown sugar (optional) 2–3 teaspoons dried mint 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground cardamom ½ teaspoon ground coriander ½ teaspoon ground cumin ⅛ teaspoon ground chillies Sea salt to taste ӯ 

* If preferred, peel the carrots; then slice them into triangular chunks. Do this by cutting on the diagonal, then rolling the carrot a half turn and slicing on the diagonal again, repeat. * Cut the courgette into thick half slices. * Cut the red onion and peppers into thick wedges. * Peel and mince the garlic. * Plunge the carrots into salted, boiling water and cook until al dente, about 1–2 minutes. Drain and set aside. (Reserve the cooking water for soup.) * Remove any tough stems from the parsley and chop the leaves roughly. * Remove any pits from the prunes and slice them into quarters. ӯ 

* In a stew pot, heat the olive oil over a medium flame. Add the red onions and bell peppers and stir-fry until caramelized on the edges. * Next, add the cooked carrots and courgette and stir-fry for about a minute. * Put in the garlic and stir-fry for 1 minute, or until fragrant. * Stir in the orange juice, canned tomatoes and tomato paste, chickpeas, carrots, prunes, mint, honey or brown sugar if using, and all the spices. * Simmer together for 10–15 minutes. * Salt to taste, adjusting the spices if needed. * Garnish with the chopped parsley. * Serve with Couscous (p. 90) alongside Yogurt Garlic Sauce (p. 197).

Rosemary Mashed Potatoes This recipe is shared in gratitude to our dear friend Bruce, a monk at Kanzeon Zen Center, who one day demonstrated with great panache how to make the fluffiest of fluffy mashed potatoes. As Bruce put it, “whip the heck out of them” with an electric beater! 1½ kilo (3 pounds) floury potatoes (such as Russets/Idaho or King Edward’s) 3–5 medium cloves garlic 4 bay leaves 2 tablespoons dried or fresh rosemary leaves, chopped 3–4 tablespoons olive oil 150 ml (⅔ cup) milk 150 ml–240 ml (⅔ cup–1 cup) cooking water from the potatoes Salt to taste ӯ 

* Peel the potatoes and cut into similarly sized halves or quarters. Rinse well in fresh water and drain. * Peel and mince the garlic. ӯ 

* Bring enough salted water to cover the potatoes to a boil. When boiling, put in the potatoes with the bay leaves and 1 tablespoon of the rosemary. * Simmer until soft, about 20 minutes. A toothpick should slide through the centres easily. * In a stew pot on medium flame, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil with the garlic and the remaining rosemary. Stir-fry until fragrant. * When the potatoes are cooked, drain and reserve the cooking water. Remove the bay leaves. * Put the cooked potatoes, milk, 150 ml (⅔ cup) of the reserved potato water, and the rest of the olive oil into the stew pot with the fried garlic and rosemary, and bring to a gentle boil. * Turn off the flame and mash with a potato masher until smooth, adding more reserved potato water or milk as needed. * Finally, whip air into the potatoes with an electric beater on high speed. * Serve alongside Mushroom Gravy & Soya Mince (p. 133), lightly cooked carrots, and broccoli tossed with a little olive oil or butter, fresh minced parsley, and nutmeg. For super smooth (but less fluffy) mashed potatoes, whizz with an immersion blender; or for more texture press through a ricer. Add cooking water or milk as needed to reach the desired consistancy.

Mushroom Gravy & Soya Mince Soya protein (TVP) requires some work if one wants to mimic the rich, somewhat salty flavour of meat. A blend of soy and Worcestershire sauce, combined with parsley, sage, rosemary, thyme, and a pinch of cloves, comes close. A splash of white vinegar added to the soaking water removes any bitterness and earthiness from the soya protein. 100 g (1½–2 cups) dried soya mince (or Quorn) 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon white vinegar 250 g (2½ cups) mushrooms 1 large onion 2 medium cloves garlic 2 tablespoons olive oil or butter 2 bay leaves 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 1 teaspoon dried sage 1 teaspoon dried thyme Pinch of cloves Dash of white pepper 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 2–3 tablespoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar 1–1½ tablespoons corn starch 400 ml (1¾ cups) water, divided

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* Cover the dried soya mince with hot water and add 1 tablespoon each of soy sauce and white vinegar. Soak for 15 minutes, or until soft. Drain well. * Rinse the mushrooms, pat dry, and cut into thin slices. * Peel and cut the onion into thin slices. * Peel and mince the garlic. ӯ 

* In a stew pot on medium flame, heat the oil or melt the butter, stir in the onions, herbs, and cloves, and sauté until the onions are browned. Add the garlic and sauté until the garlic releases its fragrance. * Put in the mushrooms and continue to sauté until they begin to soften and release their juices. Stir in the drained soya mince (or Quorn), the Worcestershire sauce and the remaining soy sauce. Stir-fry for about 5 minutes. * Pour in almost all the water and simmer until the onions are soft. Season with salt and white pepper, red wine vinegar, and more soy sauce if needed. Whisk the corn starch with the remaining water in a small bowl. Pour into the sauce stirring all the time until it begins to thicken. * Serve alongside Rosemary Mashed Potatoes (p. 131).

Japanese Curry Rice

Curry rice is a to die for staple of Japanese fast food. From temples to street corners and everywhere in between, almost everyone loves it. I have yet to find this curry in England, or anywhere else outside of Japan, even though, oddly enough, it has a British naval origin dating from the 19th century! This popular curry is essentially a roux sauce flavoured with curry spices and strewn with cooked potatoes, carrots, and beef. It is then served over hot sushi rice that has been washed free of starch to the point of glazed shininess. After conducting a few experiments and doing some research, which included reading the labels on prepackaged blocks of instant curry sauce lining Japanese supermarket shelves, here is a version that comes close and is most likely healthier. The chickpeas add heartiness to this dish and can substitute for the tofu as a source of protein. On this occasion some bereft green beans needed to be used up and added a dash of colour. At Toshoji, leftover curry sauce was sometimes stir-fried with Udon noodles to make a quick-fix meal the following day. It’s an acquired taste, if I may say so myself, but the monks I knew loved it. 2 medium onions 500 g (3–4 medium) potatoes 2 medium carrots 200 g (2 cups) green beans 30 g (3 tablespoons) fresh ginger 3 medium cloves garlic 250 g (1½ cups) firm tofu or cooked chickpeas 2 tablespoons oil 400 ml (3½ cups) water, or just enough to cover the potatoes and carrots

1–1½ tablespoons curry powder, preferably Hindu masala 400 ml (1¾ cups) coconut milk 100 g (⅔ cup) creamed coconut 20 g (2 tablespoons) palm sugar, or brown sugar 3 tablespoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon rice vinegar 1–2 tablespoons corn starch to thicken the sauce Salt to taste ӯ 

* Peel and medium-dice the onions. * Peel and large-dice the potatoes. * Peel and cut the carrots into thick half moons. * Trim the green beans into finger lengths. * Peel and mince the ginger and garlic. * Press excess moisture from the tofu and medium-dice, if using. ӯ 

* In a stew pot on medium flame heat the oil and sauté the onions until they caramelize. Add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 1 minute, or until the garlic becomes fragrant. * Next, add the potatoes and carrots and stir-fry a few minutes more. Stir in the curry powder for 30 seconds. Add enough water to just cover the potatoes and carrots and bring to a boil. Simmer until they are both cooked through, about 8 minutes. Add the green beans and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. * Add the tofu or rinsed and drained chickpeas, coconut milk, creamed coconut, jaggery or palm sugar, soy sauce, and rice vinegar. * Simmer for a few minutes to marry the flavours. Season to taste. * In a small bowl, whisk the corn starch with an equal amount of cold water and quickly stir into the sauce. Simmer until the sauce thickens. Serve accompanied by sushi rice and Pickled Spicy Cabbage (p. 206).

Teriyaki-Style Veggies This versatile teriyaki sauce, thrown over lightly cooked vegetables, can be easily tailored to suit your personal taste. Some like it sweet, some sour, and others salty, so feel free to adjust the measurements. As the late Bill Hufferd, a Master Chef and friend in Park City, Utah, once explained, simply “Sweeten with sugar, soften with water, tighten with corn starch...” This recipe is quick and easy to prepare – not much fuss with a hearty outcome! The sauce is also wonderful brushed over barbecued skewered vegetables. 250 g (1½ cups) firm tofu 3 medium carrots 2 courgette (zucchini) 1 red bell pepper 125 g (1½ cups) snow peas 2 stems green onions 30 g (3 tablespoons) fresh ginger 3 medium cloves garlic 2–3 tablespoons oil for frying

Teriyaki Sauce

120 ml (½ cup) water 1 tablespoon sugar, or to taste 3 tablespoons rice vinegar 1 tablespoon corn starch with 1 tablespoon cold water 4 tablespoons soy sauce ¼ teaspoon orange zest For the tofu; 1 tablespoon soy sauce

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* Large-dice the tofu and let it drip-dry in a colander. * Peel and cut the carrots into thin diagonal slices. * Cut the courgette in half lengthwise and cut into diagonal slices. * Deseed and cut the red bell pepper into medium sized triangles. * Trim the snow peas and green onions. Keep the snow peas whole. Slice the onions into thin diagonal strips. * Peel and mince the garlic and ginger. ӯ 

* In a small saucepan, bring the water, sugar, and rice vinegar to a scant boil. Simmer for 5 minutes. Mix the corn starch with the cold water, and then whisk into the sauce until it thickens. Add the soy sauce and season to taste. Stir in the orange zest. Turn off the heat and cover with a lid. * Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a nonstick frying pan on a medium flame and stir-fry the bell pepper until caramelized on the edges. Add the ginger and garlic and stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir into the sauce. Next, add 1 tablespoon of oil to the frying pan and stir-fry the tofu. When it starts to blush, sear the tofu with a tablespoon of soy sauce. Turn down the flame and toss occasionally until crisp and golden, about 10 minutes. * Bring a large pot of salted water to a rapid boil. Drop in the carrots, bring back to a boil, and simmer until al dente, about 1 minute. Scoop out with a slotted spoon and put in a colander to drain. Next, drop in the courgette, return to a scant boil, and immediately scoop out with a slotted spoon and set aside with the carrots. Finally, drop in the snow peas, cook for just a few seconds and set aside with the rest of the vegetables. * Mix the vegetables, tofu and green onions with the sauce. Serve with rice.

Sweet Chilli Sauce It’s fragrant, it’s hot, and it’s very spicy. Add more or less sugar, depending on your taste. The ginger and lemon give this chilli sauce an added dimension. 6–8 fresh red chillies 20 g (2 tablespoons) fresh ginger 2 medium cloves garlic 1 lemon grass root, finely chopped or 1 teaspoon lemon zest 1 lime or ½ lemon 100 ml (½ cup) white vinegar 125 ml (½ cup) sugar ½ teaspoon salt ӯ 

* Mince the chillies in a food processor. * Peel and mince the ginger and garlic. * Grate the zest off the lemon or lime and press the juice. * Place all the ingredients in a saucepan and simmer for 20 minutes, or until it starts to become a little syrupy and produces larger bubbles.

Crispy Deep Fried Tofu One day in Toshoji monastery, I watched Yudo-san and Ryoshu-san, two monks living there at the time, make this for lunch. They were huddled together at the stove, chasing and working the tofu pieces around the hot oil with long chopsticks. It arrived on the lunch table elegantly arranged as individual portions and drizzled with Sweet Chilli Sauce (p. 138). ‘Twas very “oishi”! (delicious). 500 g (1 pound, or about 3 cups) organic, firm tofu 2 tablespoons soy sauce 250 g (1½ cups) white flour ¼ teaspoon salt 250 ml (1 cup) suitable frying oil, or enough to cover the bottom of a heavy pot with 1 cm (½”) of oil ӯ 

* Press or drain the tofu to dispel any excess moisture. Large-dice the tofu and set in a colander to drip-dry for a few minutes. * Coat the drained tofu with the soy sauce and marinate as the oil heats. * Put the oil in a heavy stew pot and heat until a tiny piece of tofu dropped in sizzles loudly. The oil needs to be quite hot! 180 °C (350 °F). ӯ 

* Shake off the soy sauce, and coat the tofu pieces with the flour and salt. * Carefully put the tofu pieces into the hot oil and fry, turning them periodically until they turn golden and crispy. * Scoop out with a slotted spoon and put on paper towels to drain. * Serve alongside almost any lunch as a side dish. * Great with Sweet Chilli Sauce (p. 138) and Sambal (p. 195).

Thai-Style Curry “Thank you! The best ever!” whispered a note from Helma. Maybe it all came together in an alchemistic moment, maybe not. Perhaps the secret was simply in the sauce. Mix and match the vegetables to suit your mood, or use what is at hand. On that particular day, aubergine and bok choi cheered up the usual carrots, bell peppers, and broccoli, which often frequent the pantry shelves. 75 g (½ cup) unsalted roasted peanuts or 50 g (1 cup) dried soya slices 3 medium carrots 1 medium aubergine (eggplant) 1 yellow or red bell pepper 200 g (1 small crown) broccoli 1 medium head bok choi Oil for frying (try using the pure fat cut away from the creamed coconut) Dash of soy sauce for frying the dried soya slices 1 teaspoon white vinegar 1 teaspoon salt (for the cooking water)

For the Curry Sauce

3 medium cloves garlic 30 g (3 tablespoons) Thai ginger 400 ml (1¾ cups) canned tomatoes, pureed (about one can) 400 ml (1¾ cups) coconut milk (about one tin) 40 g (¼ cup) creamed coconut (cut away the pure fat) 6–8 whole lime leaves

1 tablespoon hot curry powder 1 teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon lemon zest (or 2 stems of finely minced lemon grass) 1 tablespoon fresh lime or lemon juice (or dash of vinegar) 20 g (2 tablespoons) palm sugar, or brown sugar 1 tablespoon soy sauce

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* If using dried soya slices, cover with hot water along with 1 tablespoon of vinegar. Soak until they soften, about 15 minutes. Drain. * Peel the carrots and cut into large matchstick style slices. * Cut the aubergine into large matchstick style slices. * Cut the yellow or red bell pepper into medium slices, with the spines of the peppers in the middle of the slices to resemble birds flying in the sky. * Cut the broccoli head into small florets. Peel the woody part off the stem and cut into large matchstick style slices. * Cut the bok choi into wide strips. * If using lemon grass instead of lemon zest, remove the tough outer leaves of the lemon grass until you get to the softer, yellow inside stalk. Mince. * Peel and mince the garlic and ginger. ӯ 

* In a large stew pot on a low flame, stir-fry the garlic and ginger with some oil till fragrant. Add the pureed tomatoes, coconut milk, creamed coconut, lime leaves, curry powder, turmeric, lemon zest or grass, lemon juice,

palm sugar, and a dash of soy sauce. Simmer while preparing the rest of the meal, stirring now and then. * In a nonstick frying pan, heat up a little more oil, put in the aubergine and stir-fry until caramelized and soft, but not mushy. Set aside. * (Optional) Next, stir-fry the soya slices with a dash of soy sauce until browned, adding a little more oil or soy sauce as needed. * While the aubergine is frying, bring a pot of salted water to a rapid boil over a high flame. Drop in the carrots, bring back to a boil, and simmer until cooked al dente, about 1 minute. Scoop out with a slotted spoon and put in a colander set over a bowl. In the same boiling water, throw in the broccoli, bring back to a boil, and immediately scoop out with a slotted spoon. Put with the carrots. Do the same with the bell pepper. Finally, throw in the snow peas for a few seconds and scoop out. (Reserve the cooking water and any water collected from the drained vegetables for soup stock.) * Stir the raw bok choi into the hot curry sauce, then follow with the rest of the cooked vegetables and peanuts, if using. * Serve alongside Rice Noodles (p. 92), Mango Salad (p. 223), Thai-Style Dressing (p. 223), Sambal (p. 195), and chopped, salted peanuts.

Green Bean & White Miso Sauce This is a subtle, versatile sauce, inspired by our travels in Asia. Here, white miso fuses beautifully with the delicate taste of young, fresh green beans. After cooking, arrange the beans on a serving dish and pour the sauce elegantly across; or toss ‘em casually together in a big pot! Great with baked aubergine slices too. 1 kg (2 pounds) green beans 25 g (2½ tablespoons) fresh ginger 75 g (½ cup) sesame seeds 300 g (12 ounces) soft/silken tofu

2 1 1 2 2

ӯ 

teaspoons sugar tablespoon rice vinegar tablespoon sake tablespoons soy sauce tablespoons white “shiro” miso

* Trim the green beans and peel and mince the ginger. * Toast the sesame seeds in a skillet until they turn a light golden colour. ӯ 

* To make the sweet miso sauce, put the tofu, sesame seeds - reserving a tablespoon for garnish - sugar, rice vinegar, sake, soy sauce, ginger, and miso together into a blender and whizz until it becomes smooth and creamy, adding a little water if needed. Set aside in a cool place. * Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, drop in the beans and return to a boil over a high flame. Reduce the flame and simmer until the beans are tender, about 4–5 minutes. Drain, reserving the water for soup stock. * Arrange the green beans on a serving dish and carefully pour the sauce over the top. Sprinkle with the reserved sesame seeds.

Curried Red Lentils A simple dish with very little prep. Nourishing food for a cold, wet day. 300 g (1½ cups) red lentils 1 litre (4 cups) water 450 g (3 medium) potatoes 4 medium carrots 3 medium cloves garlic 30 g (3 tablespoons) fresh ginger A few sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro) 1 tablespoon olive oil

½ teaspoon turmeric 4 bay leaves 1 tablespoon curry powder, preferably Bengal Pinch of cayenne pepper Dash of asafoetida powder 10 g (1 tablespoon) palm sugar, or dark brown sugar 2 teaspoons lemon juice

ӯ 

* Check the lentils for grit and stones, rinse several times and then drain. * Peel and large-dice the potatoes and carrots. Peel and mince the garlic and ginger, and mince the fresh coriander. ӯ 

* In a large pot on medium flame, bring the water to a boil with all the spices and palm sugar. Put in the lentils, potatoes and carrots, and stir while returning to a boil. Reduce the flame, cover, and simmer until the lentils are soft and the potatoes and carrots are cooked through, about 18–20 minutes. * In a frying pan, heat the oil on a medium flame and stir fry the ginger, garlic and fresh coriander until lightly fragrant. Stir through the cooked lentils, with the lemon juice, just before serving. * Serve with basmati rice, Golden Cabbage (p. 214), and Chutney (p. 196).

Boiling Salted Water A cook once told me that to blanch vegetables perfectly, the water needs to be “as salty as the sea”. Mystified as to how salty that might be, I searched the internet and stumbled onto the perfect recipe at epicurious.com. Surprisingly, this recipe has received rave reviews. Having been blessed with a very bad memory for figures, hardly a day goes by when I don’t refer to this. However, for the scientifically, not culinary, minded, for water to truly be as salty as the sea, one would need 8 tablespoons of salt in 4 litres (4 quarts) of water! 1 tablespoon sea salt

4 litres (4 quarts) fresh water

ӯ 

* In a large pot, bring the water to a boil with the sea salt.

“Do not fragment your attention but see what each moment calls for; if you take care of just one thing then you will be careless of the other.” From Tenzo kyokun: Instructions for the Tenzo. By Eihei Dogen zenji.

One Dish Meals

Ginger Fried Rice with Vegetables For best results with this recipe, use rice cooked the previous day as it will hold its shape better than freshly cooked rice. If using freshly cooked rice, let it cool a little before adding. Short Grain Brown Rice (p. 84) also works very well in this recipe. 260 g (1¼ cup) sushi rice 450 ml (1¾ cups) water 250 g (1½ cups) tofu 1 red bell pepper 1 courgette (zucchini) 150 g (1½ cups) mushrooms 125 g (1½ cups) snow peas

3 medium cloves garlic 60 g (6 tablespoons) fresh ginger 2 stems green onions 4 tablespoons soy sauce, divided 2 tablespoons sunflower oil, divided 60 g (⅓ cup) toasted sesame seeds 1–2 tablespoons roasted sesame oil

ӯ 

* Rinse the rice in several changes of water and drain well. Place the rice with the water in a heavy-bottomed pot, cover, and cook on a low flame until all the water is absorbed, about 15–20 minutes. Alternatively, use a rice cooker. Allow the rice to cool for 30 minutes, then fluff with a fork. * Medium-dice the tofu. * Deseed and small-dice the bell pepper. * Small-dice the courgette. * Clean and slice the mushrooms. * Trim and cut the snow peas in half lengthwise, diagonally. * Peel and mince the garlic and ginger. * Peel off the outer layer of the green onions, and cut into thin slices. ӯ 

* Heat 1 tablespoon of sunflower oil in a nonstick frying pan on a medium flame. Put in the tofu and stir-fry until it turns golden on the edges. Next, sear the tofu with 2 tablespoons of soy sauce, 1 tablespoon at a time. Turn down the flame and toss the tofu occasionally until crisp and golden, about 10 minutes. * Meanwhile, in a wok or stew pot on medium flame, heat 1 tablespoon of sunflower oil and stir-fry the garlic and ginger until fragrant. * Add the red bell pepper and courgette. Stir-fry for a few minutes until they are light gold on the edges. Put in the mushrooms, stir-fry until they begin to darken, about 1 minute, and then add the snow peas. Stir-fry for 30 seconds, just enough to soften them while retaining their colour. Drizzle in 2 tablespoons of soy sauce. Season to taste, adding more soy sauce if needed. * Fold in the white rice carefully so as not to break the grains. Stir-fry until the rice is hot. * Drizzle with sesame oil and fold in the sesame seeds and green onions. * Serve with Sambal (p. 195).

Black Fried Rice We first savoured black rice in China when Hojosan, Tenkei, Shugetsu, and I were invited to attend a grand ceremony at Tendoji. At the hotel, many different kinds of rice gruel were served for breakfast, and black rice was just one of them. It was so delicious! When we returned home, how happy were we to discover black sticky rice at our local Asian market. I began to find ways to work it into our menu. This rendition cheered up a previously unremarkable rice dish one chilly mid-winter Sunday. 260 g (¾ cup) black sticky rice 700 ml (3 cups) water 4–6 dried shitake mushrooms (30 g) 1 tablespoon dried hijiki seaweed 180 g (1 cup) smoked tofu 1 red bell pepper 1 small courgette 125 g (1½ cups) snow peas

200 g (1 cup packed) broccoli florets 30 g (3 tablespoons) fresh ginger 3 medium cloves garlic 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided 4 tablespoons soy sauce, divided 1–2 tablespoons roasted sesame oil 70 g (½ cup) cashew nuts ӯ 

* Rinse the rice and place in a heavy-bottomed pot with the water. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and put on a high flame. As soon as it boils, turn to low and cook for about 40 minutes, or until all the water is absorbed. Set aside. * Put the shitake mushrooms, stems down, in a pot and just cover with water. Simmer until soft, about 15 minutes. Slice them and reserve the stock. * Soak the hijiki seaweed for 30 minutes in triple the amount of warm water, then drain. Cut into roughly 4 cm (2”) lengths. * Medium-dice the smoked tofu. * Dice the red bell pepper and courgette. Trim the snow peas and cut the broccoli into small florets. Peel and mince the garlic and ginger.

ӯ * In a nonstick frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil on a medium flame. Add the tofu and stir-fry until golden on the edges, then sear with 2 tablespoons of soy sauce, 1 tablespoon at a time. Turn down the flame and stir occasionally until the tofu is crisp and golden, about 10 minutes. * In a large stew pot on medium flame, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil and stir-fry the garlic and ginger until fragrant. Add the bell pepper and courgette and stir-fry until golden on the edges. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of soy sauce, and continue to stir-fry until the soy sauce evaporates. * Add the broccoli and stir-fry until just tender, about 4 minutes. Add the shitake mushrooms, hijiki seaweed, and snow peas. Stir-fry for 1 minute. * Gently fold the sesame oil and the remaining stock from the mushrooms through the cooked rice, then carefully fold into the vegetables and stir-fry for 1 minute. When the rice is hot, gently fold in the tofu so as not to break it. * Garnish with the cashew nuts and serve with Sambal (p. 195) or Sweet Chilli Sauce (p. 202).

Blue Cheese & Rocket Thin Crust Pizza Pizza is a real treat during the Family Week at Zen River. Kids buzz with excitement when it makes its appearance on the buffet table! No surprise that their favourite is simply cheese and tomato; what they don’t realise is that the veggies are pureed into the tomato sauce! This recipe is a more sophisticated pizza for “grown ups”, with blue cheese and fresh rocket. (Makes 2 pizzas.)

Pizza Base

175 ml (¾ cup) lukewarm water 1 teaspoon dried active yeast 1 teaspoon sugar 2 tablespoons olive oil

Topping

1 red onion 1 bell pepper ½ medium aubergine (eggplant) ½ medium courgette (zucchini) 3 medium cloves garlic 150 g (½ cup) tomato paste 75 g (½ cup) blue cheese 60 g (⅓ cup) black olives

315 g (2 cups) flour ½ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon cornmeal

1 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon capers 175 g–200 g (1¾–2 cups) grated cheddar cheese 100 g (4–5 cups) fresh rocket (arugula) ӯ 

* Dissolve the sugar and yeast in lukewarm water in a mixing bowl and wait for the yeast to bubble. Pour in the olive oil. Sprinkle in the flour and salt and mix until the dough stops sticking to the sides of the bowl. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead until it feels elastic under your palms, about 5–10 minutes. Cover, and leave to rise in a warm place until doubled in size. ӯ 

* While the dough is rising, cut the onion and bell pepper into very thin slices, and the aubergine and courgette into very thin rounds. * Mince the garlic and combine with the tomato paste. * Crumble the blue cheese. * Slice the olives. * Oil two 30 cm (12”) pizza pans and sprinkle with cornmeal. * Preheat oven to 210 °C (410 °F). ӯ 

* Turn the dough onto a floured surface, divide in two and knead into balls. Sprinkling flour as needed to prevent sticking. Using a rolling pin, roll each ball into a circle until the diameter is 1 cm (½”) larger than the pizza tray. * Transfer to the pizza tray and turn in the edges to form a border. Brush the surface with olive oil. Spread the tomato paste in an even layer and sprinkle with oregano. * Distribute the vegetables evenly across the pizza so that each slice will get a little of everything. Scatter on the olives, capers and crumbled blue cheese. Sprinkle the grated cheese evenly on top of the pizza. * Bake on the lowest rack of the oven for 25–30 minutes, or until the edges turn a nice golden brown and the cheese melts. * As soon as the pizza comes out of the oven, cut into slices, sprinkle with fresh rocket and serve immediately.

Spinach, Ricotta & Tomato Pasta Simple and delicious, the inspiration behind this little recipe is spanakopita, a Greek phyllo pastry filled with chopped spinach and feta cheese. Take away the phyllo, and presto, you end up with a fine, quick, and easy sauce for pasta! If ricotta cheese is not available, substitute with cottage cheese whizzed in a food processor until smooth. Just be careful not to cook either cheese as they may separate and become grainy. Spice up the flavour with a bit of crumbled feta cheese. This is a Zen River standby when faced with so many mouths to feed and so little time. 350 g (4 cups) penne pasta 4 ripe medium tomatoes 4 tablespoons black olives 3–4 medium cloves of garlic 2 tablespoons whole almonds 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus a little extra for the pasta 300 g (10 cups) chopped fresh spinach, or frozen and thawed (1⅓ cups) 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 250 g (1 cup) ricotta cheese (or cottage cheese blended smooth in a food processor) 75 g (½ cup) crumbled feta cheese (optional) 1 teaspoon coarse-ground black pepper Sea salt to taste Small bunch fresh chopped parsley ӯ 

* Prick the tomatoes with a sharp knife and place in a heatproof bowl. Cover with boiling water and wait for the peel to split, anywhere between 30 seconds and 3 minutes, depending on the size and ripeness of the tomatoes. Drain, remove the peel, and medium-dice. * Slice the olives. * Peel and mince the garlic. * Roast the almonds in a dry skillet and chop roughly into thirds. ӯ 

* Cook the pasta according to the instructions on the package. When finished, drain and rinse with hot water, then toss with some olive oil. * While the pasta is cooking, heat the olive oil in a stew pot on medium flame and sauté the garlic until golden. * Add the spinach and dried rosemary. Sauté gently, being careful not to let it boil. * Add the tomatoes, olives, black pepper, and salt. Remove from the heat. Stir in the ricotta, cottage, and/or feta cheese. * Combine with the pasta and sprinkle with chopped almonds. Garnish with parsley. * Serve with Parmesan cheese and freshly ground black pepper.

Ratatouille Many years ago, a French exchange student staying with our family prepared this for lunch. Everyone was so excited! However, I have yet to find a Ratatouille recipe that is baked in the oven with potatoes on top. This is simply how it’s etched in my memory. Of course, it doesn’t really matter whether it’s authentic, original, traditional, or otherwise. Sometimes fiction is a useful tool to inspire the imagination. And when the imagination soars, the results can be tremendous! The beans are optional but help make it a complete meal in and of itself. Soy sauce adds body to the flavour, but can be substituted with a good sea salt.

1 medium aubergine (eggplant) 2 medium courgette (zuchinni) 1 large onion 2 bell peppers 3 medium cloves garlic 1 kg (2 pounds) potatoes 250 g (1½ cups) cooked kidney or butter beans, rinsed and drained 400 ml (1¾ cups) canned diced tomatoes (about 1 can) Olive oil for frying, and for brushing onto the potatoes 3 teaspoons dried thyme, divided 1 teaspoon dried basil 3–4 teaspoons soy sauce, divided, or sea salt to taste ӯ 

* Preheat the oven to 210 °C (410 °F). Oil a 22 cm x 30 cm (10” x 15”) baking pan. * Cut the aubergine into medium round slices. * Cut the courgette into medium round slices. * Peel and medium-dice the onion. * Deseed and julienne the bell peppers. * Peel and mince the garlic. * Scrub the potatoes and remove any eyes. Cut into thick round slices. ӯ 

* Heat up 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a frying pan. Put in the aubergine, and sauté until tender, but not mushy. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of thyme and drizzle 1 teaspoon of soy sauce over the aubergine. Continue to sauté until the soy sauce evaporates. Arrange the aubergine on the bottom of the baking pan. * In the same frying pan, heat up 1 tablespoon of olive oil, add the courgette, and stir-fry until they begin to brown. As they brown, add 1 teaspoon of thyme, and drizzle with 1 teaspoon of soy sauce. Continue to sauté until the soy sauce evaporates. Arrange the courgette on top of the aubergine in the baking pan. * Next, sauté the onion and bell pepper with a little more olive oil, until they begin to caramelize. Add the garlic halfway through the cooking along with 1 teaspoon of thyme and 1 teaspoon of basil. When the peppers and onions are soft, pour in the diced tomatoes and drained beans. * Simmer for 10 minutes and adjust the seasoning to taste, adding more thyme and soy sauce if needed. * Spread the sauce evenly over the aubergine and courgette. * While the sauce is simmering, bring a pot of salted water to a rolling boil, put in the potatoes, return to a boil, and simmer until they are cooked al dente, about 5 minutes. Drain. * Arrange the potatoes on top of the sauce, and brush generously with olive oil and sprinkle with a little thyme. Bake for 30–40 minutes, or until the potatoes begin to brown. * Serve with Parmesan cheese and freshly ground black pepper.

Vegetarian Pad Thai A wonderful sticky mess! These rice noodles are both chewy and delectable. For this recipe, try to prepare everything in advance, even down to setting the table, because it cooks in no time and won’t wait to be served. Also be sure to stop cooking the noodles before all the sauce disappears – they continue to soak it up after coming off the heat. 375 g (12 ounces) wide rice noodles 3 medium cloves garlic 100 g (½ cup) salted roasted peanuts Bunch fresh coriander (cilantro) 2 tablespoons peanut or other oil for frying 1 Spanish or red chilli

The Sauce

50 ml (¼ cup) tomato puree 50 ml (¼ cup) soy sauce 1 teaspoon powdered vegetable bouillon 75 g (⅓ cup) sugar 150 ml (⅔ cup) white vinegar 300 ml (1¼ cups) water

ӯ 

* Place the rice noodles in a bowl and cover with hot, but not boiling, water for 15 minutes to soften. Drain the rice noodles in a colander, shaking off any excess water. * Peel and mince the garlic, and deseed and mince the chilli. * Roughly chop the peanuts. * Roughly chop the fresh coriander. * In a bowl, make the sauce by mixing together the tomato puree, soy sauce, bouillon, sugar, vinegar, and water. ӯ 

* In a nonstick frying pan or wok, heat the oil on medium flame, and stirfry the garlic and chilli until the garlic just begins to colour. * Add the sauce and bring to a boil. ӯ 

* Place the rice noodles in the sauce and begin to heat through, gently lifting and turning all the while with two spoons. The noodles will get rather tangled, but that’s okay. Add more oil if they begin to stick. * Keep the noodles moving until almost all the sauce is absorbed. Remove from the flame. (The rest of the sauce will soak in while waiting to be served.) * If the noodles are not yet cooked after absorbing the sauce, add a little water and continue to stir-fry. * Serve immediately, sprinkled with the peanuts and fresh coriander leaves.

Tomato & Thai Basil Rice This is a variation on a Thai rice dish that Steph would stop dead in her tracks for – so simple and so delicious. At first glance, it might be Italian; but on tasting, it is clearly something else, but what? Combined with chilli, tomato and soy sauce, the basil mystifies the taste buds. Serve as a side dish or light main course, or stir-fry with tempeh with additional vegetables to make a complete meal in and of itself. Rice cooked the day before is perfect for this dish. Alternatively, allow freshly cooked rice to cool a little before frying. In winter, try baking it for 30 minutes in the oven. 260 g (1¼ cups) white jasmine rice 450 ml (1¾ cups) water 140 g (½ cup) tomato paste 3 tablespoons soy sauce Dash of chilli oil, or to taste 1 tablespoon dried basil, preferably Thai basil 1 teaspoon honey Salt to taste Dash of white pepper 1 red onion 3 medium cloves garlic 100 g (¾ cup) frozen green peas, thawed 2 tablespoons oil for frying 8–10 fresh basil leaves for garnish, preferably Thai basil Optional: 1 bell pepper, 1 medium carrot, 1 courgette (zucchini) and 150 g (1 cup) tempeh ӯ 

* Place the rice and the water in a heavy-bottomed pot, cover, and cook on a low flame until all the water is absorbed, about 15–20 minutes. Alternatively, use a rice cooker. Allow the rice to cool for 30 minutes, then gently fluff with a fork. * Combine the tomato paste, soy sauce, chilli oil, dried basil, honey, salt, and pepper into a smooth sauce. * Peel and small-dice the red onion. * Peel and mince the garlic. * Carefully tear the fresh basil leaves into halves. * (Optional.) Small-dice the bell pepper, carrot, courgette and tempeh. ӯ 

* In a stew pot, heat the oil on medium flame. Add the red onion and stirfry until it becomes transparent. Add the garlic and stir-fry until fragrant. * Add the vegetables and tempeh (if using) and stir-fry until the carrots are tender. * Stir in the tomato mixture and chilli oil, and simmer for 1 minute. Carefully fold in the rice and green peas. Stir-fry until the rice is hot and steaming. Salt to taste. Garnish with the fresh basil leaves.

Sesame Pasta Sesame pasta is one of those all-time favourites because it’s all at once a little spicy, salty, bright, and gently aromatic. Both daring and subtle, these noodles can be served on their own or with any kind of stir-fried dish. This little gem harks back to a distant Bar Harbor tenzo who’d had some experience with Japanese cooking. He made some spaghetti and nonchalantly tossed soy sauce and sesame oil through it, and Voilà! Sometimes we serve sesame pasta plain; other times with marinated and sautéed tofu, or with matchsticks of lightly stir-fried carrots, courgette, snow peas, and broccoli, tossed with hijiki seaweed. 300 g (3½ cups) pasta 20 g (2 tablespoons) fresh ginger 1 long stem green onion 2 tablespoons light soy sauce 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 1 tablespoon roasted sesame oil ½ teaspoon sugar 2 teaspoons sesame seeds

ӯ 

* Peel and mince the ginger. * Trim and cut the green onion into thin, diagonal slices. * Roast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet on low flame until they begin to darken and pop. * In a small mixing cup, combine the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil, ginger, and sugar. ӯ 

* Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. * Sprinkle in the pasta and bring back to a boil, stirring to prevent sticking. Follow the pasta package for cooking time, usually 7–9 minutes, depending on the size and shape. Drain when al dente, and rinse the excess starch off with hot water. * Return the pasta to the pot and toss with the sauce, roasted sesame seeds, and green onions. Add more sesame oil if desired. * Serve alongside Sesame Stir-Fry Vegetables (p. 101).

Confetti Potato Salad Only potatoes can reach deep into a Dutchman’s soul to give a kind of culinary satisfaction that no other carbohydrate can. At least that is what my Dutch husband likes to say, and he is one Dutchman who has travelled far beyond the borders countries of Belgium, Germany and France. This cheerful rendition forgoes the mayonnaise but keeps the traditional dill and dill pickles.

1 kg (2 pounds) waxy potatoes (Charlotte, Maris Peer, or Jersey Royal) 30 g (½ cup) sun-dried tomatoes 2 medium carrots 1 red onion 1 red bell pepper ⅓ English cucumber 100 g (¾ cup) pickled dill cucumbers 60 g (⅓ cup) black olives 2 stems green onions 1 tablespoon capers 125 g (¾ cup) cooked chickpeas (optional) 2 tablespoons olive oil

Mustard Dressing

ӯ 

2–3 teaspoons dried dill 1 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper 4 tablespoons olive oil Salt to taste

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice or mild salad vinegar 2 tablespoons honey 4 tablespoons French mustard

ӯ 

* First clean and scrub, then large-dice the potatoes. (Peel if you prefer.) Cover with fresh water to prevent them from discolouring. * Soak the sun-dried tomatoes in a little warm water for 20 minutes. * Peel and medium-dice the carrots and red onions. * Deseed the bell pepper, scrub the cucumber, and drain the pickled dill cucumbers. Medium-dice each one. * Remove the outer skin of the green onions and cut into thin slices. * Slice the olives into half lengthwise. * Medium-dice the sun-dried tomatoes and return to the soak water. * Combine the lemon juice with the honey, mustard, dill and black pepper in a measuring cup and whisk well to blend. Next, add the olive oil and keep whisking until it becomes smooth. Salt to taste. ӯ 

* Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and drop in the potatoes. Bring back to a boil and simmer just until tender, about 5–8 minutes depending on the size and type of potatoes. Test with a toothpick, which should slide through the middle of a potato, but not break it. Drain and allow to cool. Save a small pan of the potato water for cooking the carrots. * Bring the reserved potato water to a boil, drop in the carrots, return to a boil and simmer until just tender, about 1 minute. Drain and let cool in a colander. (Reserve the cooking water for soup stock.) * In a big stew pot, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil on medium flame. Add the onion and bell pepper. Stir-fry until they begin to caramelize but remain al dente. In a large serving bowl, toss all the vegetables with the chickpeas, capers and mustard dressing.

Mock Paella Rice Dish Paella, a classic Spanish dish, is traditionally cooked and served in a large, shallow pan. However, as we often cook for over ten people and neither have a paella pan nor a gas ring wide enough, I cheat and cook the rice and vegetables separately and bring them together in the final stage. The inspiration for this version came from a wonderful restaurant in Alicante, Spain, which served an amazing paella made with black-ink squid. Upon our return, I wanted to recreate it “sans” squid, so here is a mock version with that special flavour. Cook the rice al dente for best effect, and serve with Mock Aioli (p. 197). 300 g (1½ cups) short grain white rice 525 ml (2¼ cups) water 250 g (1½ cups) cooked chickpeas 1 large onion 1 red bell pepper 4 sticks celery 1 courgette (zucchini) 125 g (1¼ cups) mushrooms 3 medium cloves garlic

2 tablespoons fresh parsley leaves Generous pinch of saffron 2 teaspoons dried oregano or sage 1 teaspoon paprika powder 1 teaspoon dried thyme ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika powder (Pimentón de la Vera) 2–3 tablespoons soy sauce 3 tablespoons olive oil Dash of sea salt

ӯ 

* Rinse the rice in several changes of water and drain well. Place the rice and the water in a heavy-bottomed pot, cover, and cook on a low flame until all the water is absorbed, about 15–20 minutes. Alternatively, use a rice cooker. * Peel and small-dice the onion. * Deseed and small-dice the bell pepper. * Small-dice the celery, courgette, and mushrooms. * Peel and mince the garlic, and roughly chop the fresh parsley leaves. ӯ 

* Heat a frying pan on a low flame. Take off the heat, sprinkle in the saffron, and leave for 1 minute. Put the saffron in a small bowl and crush with a wooden spoon, then cover with a tablespoon of water. Set aside to soak. * Heat a stew pot on medium flame with the olive oil and throw in the onion. Sauté until it becomes golden. Stir in the celery and bell peppers and continue to sauté until the vegetables to start to sizzle. Add the garlic, oregano or sage, and thyme. Sauté until they begin to soften. * Next, add the courgette and mushrooms and sauté 1–2 minutes. Then sprinkle in the paprika, saffron and water, and 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce. * Add the chickpeas and season with the remaining soy sauce if needed. * Finally, gently fold in the smoked paprika powder and the cooked rice, being careful to keep the rice grains whole. Cover and allow to rest on a low flame for 10 minutes to marry the flavours. * When ready, sprinkle with the parsley and serve with Mock Aioli (p. 197).

Sun-Dried Tomato Summer Pasta Salad This is a real summer favourite that uses a full spectrum of colourful ingredients.

Dressing

medium clove garlic tablespoons fresh lemon juice teaspoon lemon zest tablespoons olive oil tablespoons honey tablespoon dried basil or small bunch fresh basil leaves Sea salt, to taste ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 4 1 3 3 1

30 g (½ cup) sun-dried tomatoes 2 tablespoons pine nuts 1 medium courgette (zucchini) 200 g (1 small crown) broccoli 2 stems green onions 100 g (½ cup) black pitted olives 100 g (¾ cup) feta cheese 2 tablespoons capers 100 g (½ cup) cooked kidney beans 300 g (3½ cups) pasta ӯ 

* Press the garlic clove using a garlic press. * Grate the zest from the lemon and press the juice. * In a large serving bowl, combine the garlic, lemon juice, zest, oil, honey, basil and salt. (If using fresh basil, omit at this stage. It will go in later.) * Soak the sun-dried tomatoes in a little warm water for 20 minutes. * In a frying pan on medium flame, lightly toast the pine nuts. Set aside * Cut the courgette in half lengthwise, and then into thin slices. * Cut the broccoli into small florets, peel the stem and slice into thin circles. * Trim and cut the green onions into thin slices. * Cut the olives in half lengthwise. * Small-dice the feta cheese. * If using fresh basil, tear the leaves into small pieces. * Cut the sun-dried tomatoes into thin slices and return to their soaking water. * Put the kidney beans, courgette, olives, capers, and sun-dried tomatoes in the serving bowl and mix with the dressing. Let it marinate for 30 minutes. ӯ 

* Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. When boiling, put in the broccoli and return to a boil. Immediately scoop out the broccoli with a slotted spoon, place in a colander, and rinse under cold running water. Set aside with the marinating vegetables. * Using the same water, sprinkle in the pasta, bring to a boil, and stir to prevent sticking. Cook following package directions plus 1 minute. Drain and cool under cold running water. When cooled, the pasta should be al dente. * Finally, combine the pasta, feta cheese, pine nuts, fresh basil (if using), black pepper, and green onions with the marinated vegetables.

Tamale Pie Once upon a time in the pantry, there was so much cornmeal piled up on the shelf, we didn’t know what to do with it all. After some deep thought, I recalled a special lunch served at the Kanzeon Zen Center in Salt Lake City. What I first assumed to be lasagne was in fact tamale pie: layers of polenta, cheese and chilli-spiced vegetables. This is a heartfelt dish with deep colours and rustic tastes. It can easily be prepared ahead of time and baked later. Plus, it’s gluten free. Serves about 6. 1 medium onion 1 medium green bell pepper 3 medium cloves garlic 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons cumin 2 teaspoons oregano 1 teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika (Pimentón de la Vera) 400 ml (1¾ cups) canned diced tomatoes (about 1 can) 75 g (¼ cup) tomato paste

200 g (1⅛ cups) cooked kidney beans, rinsed and drained 250 g (1½ cups) coarse yellow cornmeal 1 litre (4¼ cups) water 3 teaspoons chilli powder, divided 150 g (¾ cup) canned or frozen sweet corn 150 g (1½ cups) grated cheddar cheese 80 ml (⅓ cup) milk Salt to taste Few sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro)

ӯ 

* Preheat oven to 200 °C (400 °F). * Peel and small-dice the onion; deseed and small-dice the bell pepper. * Peel and mince the garlic. * In a pot, bring the water for the cornmeal to a boil with 1 teaspoon of the chilli powder and enough salt to taste. * Oil a 20 cm x 30 cm x 4 cm (8” x 12” x 2”) baking tin and dust with cornmeal. ӯ 

* Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a medium flame and sauté the onion, bell pepper, and garlic until caramelized. Add the cumin, oregano, cinnamon, smoked paprika, and 2 teaspoons of chilli powder (to taste). Sauté for 30 seconds and then add the canned tomatoes, tomato paste, and kidney beans. Season with salt. Simmer on a low flame for 10 minutes to marry the flavours. * In a frying pan on low flame, toast the cornmeal until it smells like popcorn. * While the cornmeal is toasting, spread the vegetables in the baking tray in a level layer and sprinkle with half the grated cheese. Set aside. * Next, whisk the cornmeal into the pot of boiling water and keep stirring to prevent lumps until it starts to bubble. Add the sweet corn. Remove from the flame and immediately spread the cornmeal over the top to seal in the vegetables. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and cover with a thin layer of milk. * Bake until the top is golden and the milk has evaporated, about 30 minutes. * Serve with chopped fresh coriander, Salsa (p. 200), and sour cream.

Sushi Rice Salad This was initially created as a dish for the desert retreats we used to organise in southern Utah, just one hour south of Moab. In contrast to the dry heat and scorching desert sun, sushi rice salad was always a cool, welcome and refreshing treat that quenched our over-heated souls. Serve with wasabi and soy sauce. 260 g (1¼ cups) sushi rice 450 ml (1¾ cups) water 5 g (1 tablespoon) dried hijiki seaweed 250 g (½ pound) firm tofu ½ red bell pepper ½ medium cucumber 1 small courgette (zucchini) 150 g (2 cups) snow peas 3 stems green onions 1 avocado

2 tablespoons sesame seeds 1 tablespoon oil 2 tablespoons soy sauce

Dressing Marinade

30 g (3 tablespoons) fresh ginger 5 tablespoons rice vinegar 1½ tablespoons sugar 1½ tablespoons mirin (a sweet rice wine for cooking) or sake Salt to taste

ӯ 

* Rinse the rice in several changes of water and drain well. Place the rice and the water in a heavy-bottomed pot, cover, and cook on a low flame until all the water is absorbed, about 15–20 minutes. Alternatively, use a rice cooker. Cool to room temperature. * Cover the dry hijiki with a small amount of warm water and allow to soak until swollen three times its size. Keep the soaking water. * Medium-dice the tofu and set in a colander to drain. * Deseed and small-dice the red bell pepper, and small-dice the cucumber and courgette. * Cut the snow peas and green onions into thin, matchstick style slices. * Peel and finely mince, or grate the fresh ginger. * Cut the avocado in half and remove the stone. Cut into quarters lengthwise, peel then dice. Sprinkle with a little salt to prevent browning. Set aside. ӯ 

* In a dry frying pan on medium flame, toast the sesame seeds until golden. * In a nonstick frying pan on medium flame, heat the oil. Add the drained tofu and stir-fry until golden on the edges. Sear the tofu with 2 tablespoons of soy sauce, 1 tablespoon at a time. Turn down the flame and stir occasionally until crisp and golden, about 10 minutes. Cool. * To make the dressing marinade, combine the rice vinegar, sugar, mirin or sake, fresh ginger and a little salt. * Leaving the avocado aside, combine the dressing marinade with the vegetables, seaweed, and seaweed soak water. * When the rice has cooled, carefully fold in the marinade, vegetables, and tofu. Finally, fold in the avocado.

Lemony Spaghetti Our friends had just returned from Spain and invited us over for dinner. They served asparagus drizzled with lemon juice and olive oil. The combination was so delightful that I found myself elaborating on the same theme with pasta a few weeks later. What came out was a total surprise. The ingredients may be simple but together they make a spaghetti with many delectable levels of taste. This recipe has become a real star on pasta day! 500 g (1 pound) spaghetti 4–6 sun-dried tomatoes 3 medium cloves garlic 2 teaspoons lemon zest 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 4 tablespoons good quality virgin olive oil, divided

1–2 tablespoons chopped walnuts or toasted pine nuts Few sprigs of fresh parsley (or dried parsley) Sea salt to taste ӯ 

* Soak the sun-dried tomatoes in a little warm water until soft, about 20 minutes. Then cut into thin strips. * Peel and mince the garlic. * In a nonstick frying pan on medium flame, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil. When hot, add the garlic and salt. Stir-fry until fragrant and just starting to turn golden on the edges. Set aside to cool. * In a small dish, combine the lemon zest, lemon juice, and roasted garlic. * Chop the walnuts into rough pieces; or if using pine nuts, toast them in a frying pan over a low flame until they just begin to brown. Watch closely to avoid burning them. * Roughly mince the parsley leaves and finely chop the stems. ӯ 

* Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Sprinkle in the spaghetti, stir to prevent sticking, and bring back to a boil. Turn down the heat to a medium flame. Cook until al dente following directions on the package, usually 7–9 minutes. Drain. * Alternatively, a simple way to cook pasta and spaghetti without the danger of overcooking is to sprinkle the spaghetti into a pot of boiling salted water and stir to release the strands. Bring to a rapid boil for 1 minute, take off the flame, and cover with a tight-fitting lid for the recommended cooking time. Drain. * Return the cooked, drained spaghetti back into the pot, and stir in the lemon zest, lemon juice and roasted garlic, 2 tablespoons olive oil, parsley, walnuts, and the sun-dried tomatoes with their soak water. * Serve with a few twists of freshly ground black pepper and Parmesan cheese.

Mac River Burgers Burgers. What more can one say? These are made with black split lentils (urad dhal) and red quinoa which gives them a rich, golden appearance. Tucked into a burger-sized roll and layered with mayo, ketchup, cheese, lettuce, pickles, a few healthy sprouts, sliced red onion and tomato, you won’t so easily miss the real deal. For a vegan burger, substitute the eggs by mixing in 2 tablespoons of corn starch, and soaking the chia seeds in 75 ml (⅓ cup) of water for 5 minutes. 120 g (⅔ cup) lentils, preferably black split urad 120 g (⅔ cup) quinoa, preferably red 500 ml (2 cups) water 3–4 bay leaves ¼ teaspoon good bouillon powder or little sea salt 1 red onion 1 red bell pepper 3 medium cloves garlic Olive oil for frying

2 teaspoons Herbes de Provence ½ teaspoon rosemary ½ teaspoon sage ½ teaspoon thyme 1 tablespoon soy sauce 2 teaspoons chia seeds ¼ teaspoon chilli powder Pinch of cloves 3 medium eggs 100 g (½ cup) cornmeal or (¾ cup) flour Yellow cornmeal for dusting

ӯ 

* In a dry frying pan on medium flame, toast the lentils until they blush. * Rinse the quinoa with fresh water and drain through a fine mesh sieve. * Place the lentils and quinoa in a heavy-bottomed pot with the water, bay leaves and bouillon powder or salt. Bring to a boil over a medium flame, turn down low then simmer, covered, until all the water is absorbed, about 20–25 minutes. The lentils should be tender, stay intact and not be mushy. * Small-dice the red onion and bell pepper, and mince the garlic.

ӯ * In a frying pan on medium flame with some olive oil, sauté the onions, garlic and bell peppers until caramelized. Add all the herbs and sauté for 30 seconds. Mix carefully through the cooked lentils and quinoa along with the soy sauce, chilli powder, clove and chia seeds. Season to taste. Allow the mixture to cool before adding the eggs, or soaked chia seeds and cornstarch. * Whisk two eggs and combine with the lentils and quinoa, then stir in the cornmeal or flour. It should have a firm consistency and not be too wet and sticky. If it is, add a little more cornmeal. If it feels too dry, stir in the third egg. * Take a 1 cm x 8 cm (½” x 3”) plastic lid and line with plastic wrap. Dust with a little cornmeal, press in the mixture firmly and turn out onto a flat surface. Alternatively, flour your hands and take a fistful of the mixture and shape it gently between your palms into flat round patties 1 cm (½”) deep. * Heat up a nonstick frying pan with some olive oil on medium flame. Carefully place several patties in the frying pan. If needed, press gently with a flat spatula to flatten them before they set. Fry both sides until they become firm, crisp and golden, about 3–4 minutes for the first side and about 2–3 minutes for the second. (Makes about 10 burgers.)

Quinoa Salad This is a delicate, fresh salad with quinoa, feta, mint, parsley and almonds. 260 g (1¼ cups) quinoa 600 ml (2½ cups)water 1 small red onion 125 g (1 cup) feta cheese 2 medium tomatoes 100 g (½ cup) black olives 1 bunch fresh mint

1 bunch fresh parsley 150 g (¾ cup) sweet corn 2 tablespoons roasted almonds 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice ½ teaspoon ground allspice ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

ӯ 

* Rinse and carefully drain the quinoa using a fine mesh sieve so as to not loose any grains. (Rinsing it will remove any bitterness.) * Place the quinoa in a heavy-bottomed pot with a tight-fitting lid. Let it soak for 15 minutes before cooking. Bring to a boil on medium flame. As soon as it boils, cover with the lid and turn down the flame to its lowest setting. Cook for about 15 minutes until the steam starts to dwindle, the water is absorbed and the grains are tender. Turn off and let it rest, covered, for 10 minutes. Fluff and allow to cool. Quinoa also cooks easily in a rice cooker. ӯ 

* Peel and small-dice the red onion. * Small-dice the feta cheese and tomatoes, and slice the olives into halves. * Roughly chop the mint, then the parsley. * Place the quinoa in a serving bowl, combine with the lemon juice, allspice, red pepper flakes and olive oil, then fold in all the remaining ingredients.

Spinach Rice 200 g (1 cup) dried azuki beans 300 g (1½ cups) short grain brown rice 750 ml (3 cups) water 1 medium red onion 250 g (2½ cups) mushrooms 3 medium cloves garlic 2 teaspoons brown mustard seeds

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon dried dill 400 g (2¼ cups) frozen chopped spinach, thawed ½ teaspoon lime or lemon zest 500 g (2 cups) quark or Greek yogurt Sea salt and black pepper to taste

ӯ 

* Soak the azuki beans overnight. The next day, drain, cover with ample fresh water and cook until soft, about 40 minutes. Alternatively, use a pressure cooker and cook for 6–8 minutes. Drain. * Put the rice with the water into a rice cooker and cook, about 40 minutes. * While the rice and beans are cooking, peel and small-dice the onion, clean and slice the mushrooms, and peel and mince the garlic. * In a big stew pot, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil on medium flame, add the onions and sauté until caramelized. Add the garlic and mustard seeds, and continue to fry until the garlic turns golden on the edges. Stir in the mushrooms and sauté until they begin to release their juices. * Next, stir in the cooked rice and heat, stirring gently to keep from sticking. Add the dill, spinach, and lime zest. Allow the spinach to cook slowly without boiling. Season with ground sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. * Stir in the quark and serve immediately with Parmesan and Aioli (p. 197).

Bulgur with Beans & Chilli Bulgur fried up with corn and kidney beans works well as a quick-fix lunch, a side dish, or a supper dish. There is something deeply satisfying about this combination. Serve it alongside a salad, with salsa and grated cheese. Other grains, such as quinoa, brown rice, or millet can be substituted for the bulgur. 180 g (1¼ cups) bulgur 600 ml (2½ cups) water 1 medium red onion 300 g (1½ cups) sweet corn 300 g (1½ cups) cooked kidney beans 1 teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste 1 teaspoon smoked paprika powder (or Pimentón de la Vera) Oil for frying ӯ 

* Boil the water in a small pan, put in the bulgur, return to a gentle boil, cover, and turn off the flame. Let it rest for 15–20 minutes, or until all the water has been absorbed. Fluff with a fork. * Peel and small-dice the red onion. * In a skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of oil on medium flame. Put in the red onion and fry until caramelized. Add the cooked bulgur, kidney beans, sweet corn, and spices, and stir-fry until hot and fragrant. * Serve with Salsa (p. 108), Tabasco, and grated cheese.

Quesadilla At a celebratory party with the sangha, we were served quesadilla, which are essentially a toasted sandwich with Tex–mex flair. These were filled with a plethora of ingredients; piquant chilli, broccoli, courgette and onions; French cheese, rocket and pine nuts. You name it, anything goes. The filling is up to you – just don’t overfill them. This version is a classic and wonderful just as is. 8 round flour or corn tortillas 125 g (½ cup) sour cream or crème fraîche 250 g (1 cup) tomato salsa (commercial will do, or home made salsa thickened with a little tomato paste) 150 g–200 g (1½–1¾ cups) grated cheese 20 g small bunch fresh coriander (cilantro) ӯ 

* Using a spatula, spread one side of a tortilla first with a thin layer of sour cream followed by salsa, grated cheese, and coriander leaves, or with a filling of your choice. Leave ½ cm (¼”) edge free of filling to give room for the cheese to melt. Place a second tortilla on top, like a tortilla sandwich. * Heat a seasoned black or cast iron frying pan on a medium flame without any oil, put in the quesadilla and fry until the edges start to curl and crisp, the cheese melts, and the tortilla shows a few golden patches, about 1 minute. * Flip with a metal spatula and toast the other side, usually half the time it took for the first side to toast. The hotter the pan gets, the quicker they cook, so pay close attention. Cut into triangular slices and serve immediately.

Enchilada with Chocolate Mole Sauce Mole is a wonderful sauce that can be smothered over almost anything. The best ones I’ve tasted were at a wonderful Mexican restaurant in the heart of downtown Salt Lake City. Every day there is a queue to get into the restaurant, and it’s always worth the wait. This is a delicious, humble rendition poured over rolled up flour tortillas filled with re-fried beans, sour cream, cheese and avocado, then heated up briefly in the oven. For a lighter version, the re-fried beans can easily be substituted with left-over chilli, or any mix of vegetables. 325 g (1½ cups) dried pinto or kidney beans, or 750 g (4½ cups) cooked pinto or kidney beans 3 cloves crushed garlic 1¼ teaspoon cumin 1¼ teaspoon chilli powder 6 or 8 round 20 cm (8”) flour or corn tortillas 6–8 tablespoons grated cheese 6–8 tablespoons sour cream 1 ripe avocado + little salt, mashed 1 tablespoon oil Few sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro)

Chocolate Mole Sauce

2 ripe bananas 2 red chillis, any kind, seeds removed 1 dried smoked chilli chipotle 4 tablespoons peanuts 4 tablespoons raisins 2 tablespoons walnuts 50 g (½ cup) unsweetened cocoa powder 125–150 ml (½–¾ cup) water Salt to taste ӯ 

* Soak the dried pinto or kidney beans overnight in three times the amount of water. The next day, drain, cover with ample fresh water and cook until soft, 1–1½ hours. Alternatively, use a pressure cooker and cook pinto beans for about 6 minutes and kidney beans for about 10 minutes. Drain the beans before the next step, reserving some of the bean stock. * To make the refried beans: In a frying pan, heat the oil with the crushed garlic on medium flame, stir-fry a minute and then add the drained beans with the cumin and chilli powder. Stir-fry and break the beans into a puree with a potato masher, or transfer to a bowl and whizz with an immersion blender. Add a little of the reserved bean stock if it looks too dry. ӯ 

* To make the mole sauce, put all the mole ingredients together in a food processor and whizz until smooth. ӯ 

* Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F) and grease a 22 cm (9”) baking pan. * For each enchilada: spread about 4 tablespoons of beans across the middle of a tortilla, then sprinkle with a tablespoon each of grated cheese, sour cream and mashed avocado. Roll the tortilla up tightly and place in the baking pan, laying the enchiladas next to each other. * Bake for 20 minutes, or until the cheese melts. Remove from the oven and pour the mole sauce over the top of them. Return to the oven for 5 minutes, or just long enough to heat up the sauce. * Serve with Salsa (p. 200), and a sprinkle of coarsely chopped fresh coriander.

Enchilada Sauce with Apricots Amazingly versatile and incredibly easy. Make it in large batches and use instead of, or with, Chocolate Mole Sauce (p. 183). It’s quite spicy, so choose your chillies to the degree of heat you prefer. I love it spiced with smoked chilli chipotles - if you can get hold of them. Great as a pasta sauce too.

1 medium red onion 2 cloves garlic 1 or 2 chillies, such as jalapeño or smoked chilli chipotle (any kind will do) 75 g (⅓ cup) dried apricots or golden sultanas 800 ml (3 cups) canned tomatoes (about 2 cans) 1 teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon oregano 1 teaspoon chilli powder Salt to taste ӯ 

* Peel and roughly chop the onion and the garlic. ӯ 

* Place all the ingredients together in a pot. Put the pot on low-medium flame, and cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes, or until the onions are tender. Stir occasionally. * Whizz until smooth with an immersion blender. Serve with tortilla wraps.

Condiments &

Spreads

Gomasio Gomasio is a wonderfully addictive condiment. Used extensively in Japan for breakfast, it has become one of the great additions to most Zen temple across Europe and America. Make it as salty as you like. A Japanese friend once told me that for the best flavour, always grind gomasio with a ceramic pestle and mortar. 250 g (1¾ cups) sesame seeds 1 teaspoon salt

ӯ 

* Place the sesame seeds in a frying pan without any oil. Turn on medium flame and stir-fry until the seeds begin to pop, the colour changes to a light golden hue, and the fragrance becomes lovely. Stir in the salt. * Cool, and then grind with a pestle and mortar, or for about 15 seconds in a food processor. (Grind just until the seeds are broken since grinding them too long will release the oils and make the gomasio sticky.) * Serve with any meal. It goes particularly well with any breakfast porridge.

Fried Breakfast Rosemary Onions A full English breakfast is a slap-up affair with scrambled eggs, fried toast, mushrooms, tomatoes and baked beans. These fried onions mingle happily and speak volumes next to the mildness of scrambled eggs. This is a very straightforward recipe and perfect for long, cold, dark winter mornings. 2 medium onions Olive oil for frying 4 stems green onions 1 teaspoon dried rosemary Sea salt

ӯ 

* Peel and slice the onions lengthwise. * Cut the green onions into thin rounds, including the green part. ӯ 

* In a frying pan on medium flame, heat some olive oil, and sauté the onions with the rosemary until caramelized and aromatic, about 20 minutes. * Add the green onions and sauté for 30 seconds. * Turn off the heat and serve with a full English breakfast.

Red Onion & Bell Pepper Condiment A few years ago when visiting my brother in Newcastle, we went to a lovely little cafe for breakfast not far from his home. On the menu was a Tex-mex breakfast: scrambled eggs sprinkled with grated cheese, sour cream and fried bell peppers all wrapped up in a flour tortilla. Later it inspired this little smokey condiment that goes wonderfully with - surprise - Singing Potatoes (p. 35) and Scrambled Eggs! (p. 36) 1 medium red onion 1 red bell pepper 4 tops of green onions 1 tablespoon olive oil for frying Dash of smoked paprika powder (Pimentón de la Vera) or minced chilli chipotle Pinch of salt ӯ 

* Peel and small-dice the red onion. * Deseed and small-dice the red bell pepper. * Cut the green part only of the green onion into thin rounds. (Reserve the whites for another use.) * In a frying pan on medium flame, heat up the olive oil and sauté the red onion and bell pepper until caramelized and aromatic. Next, season with the chilli chipotle or smoked paprika and salt. Stir in the green onions and sauté for 30 seconds, and then remove from the heat.

Sambal A Dutch dinner can barely go by without sambal. It has become a staple in the Netherlands thanks in part to the history of colonies in Indonesia. If you like things hot, then sambal will do it! Making it could not be simpler, and the results lend amazing colour and flavour to any meal. 12 Spanish or other red chillies 2 teaspoons white vinegar 100 ml (½ cup) water Salt to taste ӯ 

* Snip off the stems, cut into short pieces, and roughly mince the chillies by hand or in a food processor. * Place all the ingredients in a heavy-bottomed pot and simmer for 20–30 minutes, or until most of the moisture has evaporated.

Spiced Apple Chutney 450 g (3 medium) apples (Braeburn) 1 medium onion 10 g (1 tablespoon) fresh ginger 2 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon curry powder 1 teaspoon coriander 1 teaspoon cardamom 1 teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon turmeric Dash of nutmeg Pinch of cloves 3 bay leaves 100 g (¾ cup) raisins 150 ml (⅔ cup) white vinegar 75 g (⅓ cup) dark brown sugar 1 tablespoon sunflower oil Salt to taste

ӯ 

* Peel and medium-dice the apples. * Peel and small-dice the onions. * Peel and mince the ginger and garlic. ӯ 

* In a heavy-bottomed pot, heat the sunflower oil over a medium flame. Add the onions and bay leaves, and sauté until softened. * Add the ginger and garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. * Stir in the apples and all the spices, and sauté for a few seconds. * Add the raisins. * Pour in the vinegar and brown sugar, stirring until the sugar melts. * Cover with a lid and gently simmer on a low heat for 25–30 minutes, or until the apples are soft. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking.

Mock Aioli We first savoured real Ali-oli (aioli) at a paella restaurant in Spain, where Jorge recited an interesting tale about the origins of the name “mayonnaise”. He told how a British general stationed in Menorca - the capital of Mahon - brought the recipe back to England, but, on account of his preferences, without the garlic. And so mayonnaise, as we know it, was born. This version is called mock aioli because it mimics the real thing by substituting shop-bought mayonnaise. The olive oil and garlic are essential in giving the characteristic flavour. Serve next to Mock Paella Rice (p. 173) or Saffron Lentils (p. 130). 2 tablespoons olive oil 6 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 small clove garlic

ӯ 

* Slowly drizzle and whisk the olive oil into the mayonnaise. Press the garlic and whisk it in. Allow to marinate for 15 minutes before serving

Yogurt Garlic Sauce 1 small clove garlic 250 ml (1 cup) full fat natural yogurt Pinch of ground chilli or cayenne Pinch of white pepper Salt to taste

ӯ 

* Press the garlic clove and combine all the ingredients. * Serve with Pita Bread (p. 60) and Moroccan-style dishes (p. 109, p. 135).

Cucumber Tzatziki This is a creamy cucumber sauce of Greek origin that complements both couscous and lentil curry dishes. ⅓ English seedless cucumber ¼ teaspoon salt 1 very small clove fresh garlic 12–15 fresh mint leaves or 1 teaspoon dried 180 ml (¾ cup) natural Greek yoghurt or quark 60 ml (¼ cup) sour cream 1 teaspoon dried dill White pepper ӯ 

* Grate the cucumber and combine with the salt. Let it stand for about 15 minutes, then place in a sieve and press to remove excess liquid. * Press the garlic with a garlic press and mince the fresh mint leaves. * Combine the drained cucumber with all the ingredients. Salt to taste.

Tomato Sesame 500 g (1 pound) tomatoes ½ red onion 1 tablespoon sesame seeds, black or white 1 tablespoon brown sugar 100 g (½ cup) green peas, fresh or frozen and thawed (optional) ӯ 

* Prick the tomatoes with a sharp knife and place in a heatproof bowl. Cover with boiling water and wait for the peel to split, anywhere between 30 seconds and 3 minutes, depending on the size and ripeness of the tomatoes. Drain, peel, and cut into half or quarter slices, reserving any juice that is released through cutting. * Peel the red onion and cut it into thin slices. Put in a small heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water for 5 minutes to soften the flavour. Drain. * In a frying pan on medium flame without any oil, roast the sesame seeds until they start to pop. * Combine the tomatoes, the tomato juice, red onions, brown sugar, sesame seeds and green peas, if using. Salt to taste. * Serve alongside Lentil Dhal (p. 127).

Fresh Salsa with Sweet Corn 4 medium vine tomatoes ¼ small red onion (about 3 tablespoons) ¼ green bell pepper (about 3 tablespoons) 1 small mild chilli pepper 200 g (1 cup) sweet corn kernels Few sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro) ½ teaspoon cumin ½ teaspoon oregano ½ teaspoon chilli powder ½ teaspoon red wine vinegar or 1 teaspoon lime juice ⅛ teaspoon smoked paprika powder (Pimentón de la Vera) Salt to taste ӯ 

* Prick the tomatoes with a sharp knife and place in a heat-proof bowl. Cover with boiling water and wait for the peel to split, anywhere between 30 seconds and 3 minutes, depending on the size and ripeness of the tomatoes. Drain, peel, and small-dice, reserving any juice that is released through cutting. * Peel the red onion and mince very finely. Place in a heat proof bowl and cover with boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain. * Deseed and mince both the green bell pepper and chilli. * Combine all ingredients with the spices and salt. * Serve alongside Black Bean Chilli (p. 106), Flour Tortillas (p. 62), grated cheese, sour cream, thin shredded iceberg lettuce, and plain corn chips.

Guacamole 1 ripe avocado Sliver of red onion (1 tablespoon) ⅛ green bell pepper (1 tablespoon) 1 ripe small tomato (2 tablespoons) 1 small clove garlic Few sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro) 1 chilli, or sambal or tabasco to taste 1–2 teaspoons lime juice Sea salt to taste

ӯ 

* Scoop out the flesh from the avocado, put in a bowl with a little sea salt and mash with a fork. * Peel and mince the red onion very fine. * Deseed and mince the bell pepper. * Small-dice the tomato. * Peel and crush the garlic. * Mince the fresh coriander. * Deseed and mince the chilli. * Combine all the ingredients and allow to marinate for 20 minutes.

Sweet Chilli Sauce This is a very versatile condiment. Use it as a salad dressing, a dip sauce or drizzled over a simple stir-fried rice. Make it as sweet or as sour as you like. The sweeter it is, the more syrupy it will become. 1 tablespoon prepared sambal or 3 hot chillies 1 clove garlic 300 ml (1 cup) white vinegar 75 g (⅓ cup) white sugar ӯ 

* Finely chop the chillies and peeled garlic or crush together using a pestle and mortar. * Place the vinegar and sugar in a small pan on low–medium flame with the sambal or chillies. Bring to a boil and simmer 20–30 minutes, until it thickens slightly when cooled. Test for doneness by dripping a few drops on a cold saucer.

Yogurt Mint Raita Here are two super simple yogurt sauces that are great complements to most curry dishes. If you only have nonfat yogurt, mix in a dollop of sour cream. 12–15 fresh mint leaves 1 small clove garlic, pressed 250 ml (1 cup) full fat natural yogurt

Pinch of ground chilli or cayenne 1 teaspoon white sugar Pinch of white pepper Salt to taste ӯ 

* Finely chop the mint leaves, and combine all the ingredients. Let it rest for 20 minutes to marry the flavours.

Yogurt Cumin Raita 1½ teaspoons whole cumin seeds 1½ teaspoons whole mustard seeds Oil for frying

250 ml (1 cup) full fat natural yogurt Pinch of cayenne pepper 1 small clove garlic, pressed Salt to taste

ӯ 

* In a frying pan on medium flame, heat a little oil and stir fry the cumin and mustard seeds until the mustard seeds pop and sizzle. * Combine with the yogurt, cayenne, and pressed garlic. Salt to taste. Let it rest for 20 minutes to marry the flavours.

Mock Takuan In 2000 after leaving Kanzeon Zen Center in the US, Tenkei and I went to live in Tokyo for six months before returning to Europe. We had an invitation to stay at Kirigayaji, the family temple of Junyu Kuroda, the younger brother of Maezumi Roshi, our dharma “grandfather”. Each morning, we sat zazen, chanted services and stumbled into a traditional breakfast of white rice, umeboshi plum, miso soup and pickles. It took time to acquire a taste for it, but soon I began to notice a nice, healthy glow following breakfast, and I even began to like it. When introduced at Zen River (which was a rather daring prospect considering the Dutch are partial to bread and cheese), to our surprise, it was mostly received with great enthusiasm! As pickled daikon is hard to find in Holland, we created our own quick version using turmeric to give colour and a subtle and somewhat elegant flavour. Though not quite Japanese, it still tastes “oishi” (delicious)! Serve alongside Miso Soup (p. 231) and white rice, or use it to complete any Japanese-style meal. ⅓ medium daikon radish (large, long white radish) 2 tablespoons sugar

100 ml (½ cup) white vinegar ½ teaspoon salt 1½ teaspoons turmeric

ӯ 

* Peel the daikon and cut in half lengthwise. Then slice the daikon into medium slices. Place the sliced daikon into a bowl and combine with the sugar, vinegar, salt, and turmeric. Place a heavy plate on top of the daikon, pressing it down. Stir now and then so everything pickles evenly. Let it rest overnight in the fridge. Drain before serving.

Pickled Aubergine ½ medium aubergine (eggplant) 2 tablespoons sugar

100 ml (½ cup) white vinegar ½ teaspoon salt

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* Cut the aubergine in half lengthwise, and then slice into medium slices. In a bowl, combine the sliced aubergine with the sugar, vinegar, and salt. Place a heavy plate on top of the aubergine, pressing it down. Let it rest for several hours, or overnight in the fridge. Drain before serving

Salted Cucumber Pickle ¼ English seedless cucumber ½ teaspoon sea salt

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* Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and then cut into ½ cm (¼") thick diagonal slices. Stir the salt through the cucumber. Let it rest for 1 hour, or overnight in the fridge. Drain before serving.

Pickled Spicy Cabbage 300 g (4 cups) red or green cabbage ½ teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons soy sauce 1½ tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon roasted sesame oil 1 teaspoon sambal oelek, or finely minced chillies, to taste 1 tablespoon roasted sesame seeds

ӯ 

* Slice the cabbage leaves as finely as possible. Mix with the salt, cover and let it rest until it begins to wilt, about one hour or overnight. * Drain off the brine. (Rinse and drain the cabbage if it’s too salty.) * Combine the cabbage with the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil, and chillies. Marinate for at least thirty minutes. Sprinkle with the roasted sesame seeds. * Optional: Add a tablespoon of soaked hijiki or wakame seaweed.

Nori Sprinkles 3 sheets nori seaweed, the dry flat seaweed used to roll sushi ӯ 

* Heat a black or cast iron pan on medium flame without oil. Place a whole sheet of nori in the pan and heat until the seaweed crisps starts to take on a green sheen. It should crumble easily when done. * Scrunch into small pieces. * Serve sprinkled over sushi rice or Temple Gruel (p. 20).

Classic Hummus This hummus recipe was inspired after a one-off visit to a Lebanese restaurant somewhere in Düsseldorf. Since then, I’ve noticed that whenever I make it, the flavour of this one lingers in the back of my mind. It was more lemony and soft than most hummus I’ve had the occasion to try. After several trips down the hummus trail, this simple rendition has a subtle flavour that mingles pleasantly with the lemon, cumin, tahini and garlic. 250 g (1½ cups) cooked chickpeas 2–3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 4 tablespoons tahini ½ teaspoon ground cumin 120 ml (½ cup) water (omit if using as a spread) 1 small garlic clove, pressed Salt to taste ӯ 

* Drain the chickpeas, and if they are canned, rinse well with fresh water. * Place all the ingredients in a mixing bowl. * Whizz until perfectly smooth with an immersion blender. * Serve alongside Pita Bread (p. 60), or Middle-Eastern themed cuisine.

Red Hummus with Roasted Bell Pepper 250 g (1½ cups) cooked chickpeas, rinsed and drained 1 red bell pepper 1 small red onion 1 clove garlic, peeled

4 tablespoons tahini 2–3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika powder Pinch of chilli powder to taste Pinch of white pepper

ӯ 

* Deseed the red bell pepper, peel the onion, and cut both into large pieces. * In a frying pan with a little olive oil on medium flame, roast the red bell pepper, red onion, and the peeled garlic clove until the skin of the pepper begins to blister and is deeply caramelized. * Combine all the ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth.

Egg Salad Sandwich Spread 4 hard-boiled free-range eggs 2 tablespoons mayonnaise ¾ teaspoon dill ¾ teaspoon curry powder

¾ teaspoon dried parsley Pinch of white pepper Salt to taste ӯ 

* Peel and finely chop the hard-boiled eggs and gently fold in the remaining ingredients.

Olive & Sun-Dried Tomato Tapenade Here are two savoury spreads to smear on bread, toast or crackers. They are quite simple to prepare and make use of nondairy ingredients. The first is a tapenade, usually made with olives and capers, and the second a flavourful mushroom pâté. Besides being a "delish" cheese substitute, they are strong and savoury enough to be used as a topping on small slices of toasted baguette during a festive buffet. 6 sun-dried tomatoes 170 g (1¼ cups) pitted black olives 50 g (½ cup) cashew nuts 2 cloves garlic, peeled and roasted 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons Herbes de Provence 1 tablespoon dried parsley 1 tablespoon capers Salt and pepper to taste

ӯ 

* Soak the sun-dried tomatoes in 5 tablespoons of hot water for 15–20 minutes. * Combine all the above ingredients, including the soak water from the sundried tomatoes, and blend in a food processor or with immersion blender until smooth.

Shitake Mushroom Pâté Shitake mushrooms give this spread its wonderfully deep, sagacious flavour. 6 dried shitake mushrooms (30 g) ½ bell pepper 1 small red onion 1 medium clove garlic 1 tablespoon olive oil 50 g (½ cup) brazil or other nuts 2 tablespoons nutritional yeast 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon dried parsley ½ teaspoon dried sage

½ teaspoon dried rosemary ½ teaspoon dried thyme (Substitute 2 tablespoons Herbes de Provence for the parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme) ½ teaspoon paprika powder 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar Pinch of white or black pepper Pinch of cloves Salt to taste ӯ 

* Place the shitake mushrooms in a pan and cover with an equal amount of water. Simmer on low flame until soft and the water has evaporated until about 3 tablespoons of liquid remain, about 15 minutes. * While the shitake are cooking, deseed and cut the bell pepper into large pieces. Cut the onion into large slices, and peel the garlic clove, keeping it whole. * In a frying pan on low–medium flame, heat the olive oil and add the bell pepper, red onion, and garlic clove. Cover and sauté slowly until the onion and bell pepper are caramelized, about 20 minutes. * In a large mixing bowl, combine all the cooked ingredients, the remaining olive oil, brazil nuts, nutritional yeast, soy sauce, and the herbs and spices. Whizz until smooth with an immersion blender.

Cranberry Orange Sauce Cranberries are one of those pivotal ingredients of American Thanksgiving feasts. Nowhere have I enjoyed cranberry sauce so much! Since leaving the US, any festive Fall occasion is the perfect excuse to prepare a bowl of fabulously fresh cranberry sauce. 250 g (2½ cups) fresh or frozen cranberries 100 g (½ cup) sugar 125 ml (½ cup) orange juice Pinch of salt Pinch of cloves ӯ 

* Rinse and pick through the fresh cranberries. Combine all the ingredients in a heavy-bottomed pot. Set on a medium flame and stir until all the sugar is dissolved. Bring to a simmer and cook until the cranberries begin to burst and the sauce begins to thicken, about 8–10 minutes. Stir carefully now and then while cooking. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. It will continue to thicken as it cools.

Cream Cheese with Green Onions This recipe reminds me of the days when we could pick up left-over bagels from the local bagel store in Salt Lake City and serve them for Sunday brunch at the Zen Center. Our home made, flavoured cream cheeses were great with those bagels, and this one is perfect with hard-boiled eggs too! 200 g (¾ cup) cream cheese 2 stems green onions 2 teaspoons freshly ground pepper or 30 twists from a pepper mill. ӯ 

* Mince both the green and white parts of the green onions and combine with the cream cheese and black pepper.

Cream Cheese with Roasted Red Pepper 1 red bell pepper Olive oil for frying 200 g (¾ cup) cream cheese 1 teaspoon dill Dash of white pepper Dash of smoked paprika powder (Pimentón de la Vera) (optional) ӯ 

* Deseed and cut the pepper into large pieces. * Heat a frying pan on low flame with the oil, put in the bell pepper and stir so that it is coated with oil. Cover with a lid and cook until the skins of the pepper caramelize. Cool down and puree in a food processor. * Combine the cream cheese, red pepper puree, dill, pepper, and paprika.

Golden Cabbage My mother just happens to be an aging Zen master who sometimes goes by the Dharma name Genshin Roshi, given to her by her teacher, but more often than not by the name of Nancy. Not only is she aging, but her knees are too, no doubt the consequence of years of zazen. One day, she was very excited about a magical formula for arthritis that Jill, her home-help, had told her about. Every day Jill mixes it into the feed for her old arthritic horses who, incredibly, refuse to eat their supper if it’s not included. It works brilliantly she says, and it's charming to see their golden turmeric stained mouths afterwards! The magic ingredient is “Golden Paste”, an old ayurverdic formula consisting of organic ground turmeric, olive oil, and fresh black pepper. It works for people too, and we were keen to try it! Here is a recipe that includes this magical trio. Goes great with Curried Red Lentils (p. 149). 300 g (4 cups) green cabbage 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon white vinegar

Marinade

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon ground turmeric preferably organic A few twists of freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon lemon juice Few sprigs of chives or green onion ӯ 

* Slice the cabbage leaves as fine as possible. Mix with the salt and white vinegar, cover and let it rest for 30–45 minutes, or until it softens. When the cabbage is soft, drain, rinse, and press out any excess brine. * Using scissors, snip the chives into short lengths. * In a serving bowl, combine the olive oil, turmeric, black pepper, and lemon juice. Combine with the cabbage and the chives.

Salads & Dressings

Pear & Rocket Salad 3 firm pears 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Pinch of sea salt

120 g (6 cups) rocket 20 g (1 box) mustard cress ӯ 

* Cut, core and slice the pears and combine with the lemon juice and salt. * Just before serving toss with the rocket and cress. * Serve alongside Strawberry Chilli Salad Dressing. (See below.)

Strawberry Chilli Dressing After a huge retreat on the island of Ameland, we inherited 50 open jars of jam, which eventually became salad dressing for 50 salads. This is for one. 2 1 1 2 2

tablespoons strawberry jam tablespoon red wine vinegar tablespoon balsamic vinegar tablespoons olive oil tablespoons sunflower oil

Pinch of chilli powder Dash of smoked paprika powder Sea salt to taste White pepper to taste ӯ 

* In a mixing jug whizz all the ingredients with an immersion blender.

Lettuce & Daikon Salad 120 g (3” long piece) fresh white daikon radish 250 g (3 cups) fresh mixed baby leaf lettuce ӯ 

* Peel and grate the daikon. A mandoline grater works well for this. * Just before serving combine with the baby leaf lettuce. * Serve alongside Miso Dressing (see below).

Miso Dressing with Ginger & Sesame Miso, a fermented soy bean paste, comes in varying degrees of strength and saltiness. Begin with two teaspoons of miso before adding the third. 2 tablespoons sesame oil 1 tablespoon sunflower oil 2–3 teaspoons white or red miso 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar

2 tablespoons water 1 teaspoon finely minced ginger root ¼ teaspoon ground ginger 1 tablespoon Gomasio (p. 192) Salt to taste

ӯ 

* In a mixing jug, whisk together the miso, rice vinegar, sugar and water to form a smooth paste. Add the sunflower and sesame oil, whisk well. Stir in the ginger, ground ginger and gomasio. Adjust seasoning to taste.

Carrot & Apple Salad 3 medium carrots 1 large apple 60 g (¼ cup) dried cranberries

2 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons raspberry vinegar ӯ 

* Peel and grate the carrots and apple, preferably using a mandoline grater. * Combine with the dried cranberries, olive oil and raspberry vinegar.

Cashew Nut Dressing with Rosemary 100 g (¾ cup) cashew nuts 110 ml (½ cup) water 1½ tablespoons olive oil 1–2 teaspoons raspberry vinegar 1 teaspoon dried or fresh rosemary leaves Dash of nutmeg Salt and white pepper to taste ӯ Whizz all the ingredients together with an immersion blender until creamy smooth. Thin with a little water if needed.

Beetroot Salad 1 1 1 2 2

medium beetroot small carrot large apple tablespoons raisins tablespoons walnuts

ӯ 

* Peel and grate the beetroot and carrot. Remove the core from the apple and grate. * Combine the beetroot, carrot and apple, with the raisins and nuts.

Winter Salad Dressing 1 tablespoon honey 1 tablespoon soy sauce 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 4 tablespoons olive oil Dash of black pepper Pinch of cloves Salt to taste

ӯ 

* Measure all the ingredients into a mixing jug and whisk well until the honey has dissolved.

Chicory & Apple Salad 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 2 tablespoons honey 120 ml (½ cup) apple juice Sea salt to taste 2 heads chicory

1 sweet medium apple 80 g (1 cup) spinach leaves Few leaves iceberg lettuce 3 tablespoons chopped walnuts 4 tablespoons raisins

ӯ 

* Whisk together the apple cider vinegar, honey, apple juice, and salt. * Cut the chicory into quarters, remove the heart, and cut into thin diagonal slices. Cover with salted water for 20 minutes and then rinse and drain. Core and small-dice the apples. Rinse and dry the spinach and iceberg lettuce, and tear into small pieces. Combine the chicory, apples, spinach, and lettuce with the walnuts and raisins. Toss with the dressing, and season with salt. Serve immediately.

Horseradish Cream Real, fresh horseradish is one of those wonderful condiments for both salads or roasted vegetables. The finer it’s grated, and the fresher it is, the more piquant it will be. Be warned! Your eyes will probably water when grating the root. (Also, avoid serving in silver or it will tarnish!) 60 g (½ cup grated) fresh horseradish root 150 ml (¾ cup) sour cream Salt to taste ӯ 

* Peel and grate the horseradish using a fine (microplane) grater. * Mix with the sour cream and season with salt.

Spinach & Mushroom Salad 250 g (2½ cups) button mushrooms 250 g (6 cups) fresh spinach 2 tablespoons honey mustard dressing Croutons to garnish

ӯ 

* Thinly slice the mushrooms and marinate in the dressing for 30 minutes. * Rinse and dry the spinach. Remove the thick stems and tear larger leaves into bite-sized pieces. Place in a serving dish and garnish with the marinated mushrooms. Top with croutons.

Honey Mustard Lemon Dressing 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon honey 2 tablespoons mustard

4 tablespoons olive oil Salt to taste Pinch of black pepper

ӯ 

* In a mixing jug, first whisk together the lemon juice, honey and mustard. * Next, whisk in the olive oil, salt and black pepper. * For a tart dressing, omit the honey and instead add a little more olive oil.

Mixed Green Salad with Pomegranate 1 ripe pomegranate 100 g (2 cups, packed) spinach ¼ iceberg lettuce 80 g (1½ cups) rocket (arugula)

ӯ 

* Score the pomegranate skin in quarters. Pull apart the fruit and release the seeds while submerging the pomegranate in a bowl full of water. The pith will float and the seeds will sink. Remove the pith and drain. Scatter the seeds through the salad. * Rinse and spin the spinach, lettuce, and rocket. Using the tips of your fingers, carefully tear the larger leaves and remove the large stems from the spinach.

Lime Mayo Dressing 2 teaspoons lime juice 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 120 ml (½ cup) mayonnaise 60 ml (¼ cup) Greek yogurt or quark Salt to taste * Whisk all the ingredients together in a small bowl.

Mango Salad 1 ripe mango ⅓ head iceberg lettuce (3 cups) 50 g (½ cup) bean sprouts Sprig of fresh coriander (cilantro) 1 tablespoon salted peanuts, roughly chopped ӯ 

* Peel and cut the widest part of the mango away from the stone. Cut into thin slices. * Rinse, dry, and shred the iceberg into thin slices. * Rinse and drain the bean sprouts. * Combine the mango and lettuce with the bean sprouts and garnish with fresh chopped coriander and roughly chopped peanuts.

Thai-Style Dressing 1 tablespoon lime juice 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1½ teaspoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon sugar Pinch of ground chillis, or sambal to taste Salt to taste ӯ 

* Whisk all the ingredients together in a small bowl.

Mixed Green Salad As a child in England, I was often nibbling on sorrel growing in the hedgerows. Now it seems to be available as a chic alternative to lettuce for salads! It thrives in the Zen River vegetable patch, as does wild rocket (arugula) and curly lettuce. This is one of our favourite mixes. A few leaves of curly green lettuce A few leaves of red leaf lettuce 40 g (1½ cups) corn salad (also known as lambs lettuce or mache) 40 g (1½ cups) baby sorrel leaves 40 g (1½ cups) rocket (arugula) ӯ 

* Rinse and spin all the leaves in a salad spinner. * Using your fingertips, carefully tear the larger leaves into bite-sized pieces, without bruising them. Toss together in a large bowl. * Serve with Walnut Dressing (see below).

Walnut Dressing 4 tablespoons finely chopped walnuts 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons orange juice 1 tablespoon sake

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon sugar or honey Dash of nutmeg Salt and black pepper to taste

ӯ 

* Whizz all ingredients with an immersion blender until smooth. * Add more water if needed because the walnuts can become quite thick when whizzed.

Waldorf Salad This lovely, crisp salad goes well with creamy dressings. It’s perfectly nice on its own, too. 2 3 2 1 1

sweet apples sticks celery tablespoons raisins tablespoon fresh lemon juice tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon dill leaves, fresh or dry 1 tablespoon very fine minced red onion 60 g (½ cup) chopped walnuts Salt to taste

ӯ 

* Slice the apples and celery very thin and toss with all the remaining ingredients.

Tofu Tahini Dressing Silken tofu is very fragile and has a wonderfully fresh, delicate flavour. It’s great for creamy salad dressings. This dressing is perfect for when vegans are hanging about! 250 g (1 cup) silken/soft tofu 1 tablespoon (white) tahini or 2 tablespoons hulled sesame seeds 2 teaspoons soy sauce White pepper and salt to taste ӯ 

* Whizz all ingredients with an immersion blender until silky smooth.

Blue Cheese Dressing 100 g (⅓ cup) blue cheese 125 ml (½ cup) mild, thick yogurt 2 tablespoons olive oil Dash of nutmeg 1 teaspoon dried parsley Salt and white pepper to taste

ӯ 

* Whizz all the ingredients together with an immersion blender until smooth.

Apricot Jalapeño Dressing 2 tablespoons apricot jam 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons sunflower oil 1½ tablespoons apple cider vinegar A few slices of seeded red jalapeño pepper or chilli powder to taste Sugar and salt to taste ӯ 

* Whizz all the ingredients together with an immersion blender until smooth. Sweeten to taste with sugar.

Green Salad A few leaves of butter lettuce and young spinach leaves ӯ 

* Rinse and spin the leaves in a salad spinner. Carefully tear the larger leaves into bite-sized pieces without bruising them. Mix in a large bowl and serve with Apricot Jalapeño Dressing or Blue Cheese Dressing (see above).

Tomato Salad This is one of Tenkei’s favourite salads, the quintessential East meets West: olive oil and soy sauce. They’re unlikely partners, but the taste is incredibly complementary. During the early days of Kanzeon Zen Center, the kitchen was on a tight budget. Joanna would forage a warehouse market in downtown Salt Lake City to pick through any unsold fruit and vegetables that were going to be cast aside. Usually a third was already spoiled, but the rest were still fine. One day she came back with a box of super ripe tomatoes. Luckily, someone visiting from Spain was helping prepare lunch; she plunged them into boiling water and peeled the lot. They tasted wonderful. Once peeled, their flavour is sweeter and less astringent. Plunging and peeling tomatoes has now become a regular practice in the Zen River kitchen! 1 kg (2 pounds) tomatoes 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons soy sauce Coarse black pepper to taste Few stems of chives

ӯ 

* Prick the tomatoes with a sharp knife, drop into a pan of boiling water and scoop out as soon as the peel splits. Peel and cut into thin slices. * Combine with the olive oil, soy sauce, pepper and finely chopped chives.

Pineapple Salsa Salad Dressing This dressing can be used either as a condiment to chilli dishes, or as a salad dressing. Super simple to make when short on time - especially when using tinned pineapple. A lovely combination of sweet pineapple, zingy lemon, aromatic coriander and spicy chillis. 175 g (6 ounces) canned pineapple chunks in natural syrup or ¼ fresh pineapple (1 cup) with 120 ml (½ cup) pineapple juice 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 3 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro) 1 very small dried guindilla chilli, or other dried or fresh chilli Salt to taste ӯ 

* If using fresh pineapple, wash, then generously cut away the top and bottom of the pineapple. Remove the peel with a sharp knife, then scoop out the pineapple eyes. This can be done by cutting the eyes out together in a diagonal line. Slice into quarters lengthwise, trim away the woody core then cut into chunks. * Place all the ingredients into a mixing cup and whizz with an immersion blender until smooth.

Soups

Miso Soup with Ginger One morning at Kirigayaji, Hojosan’s Tokyo temple, I decided to help by making the breakfast miso soup – a rather daring prospect, making miso soup for the Japanese! As a ginger lover, without thinking twice, I grated a little into the stock. What a surprise when all the staff arrived and peered into the kitchen to see what was happening. “High point!” said one. Then, in cheerful disbelief and amazement that anyone would put ginger in miso soup, all took bowls of it, and quickly finished it was. If not available in larger supermarkets, most of the ingredients can be found in Asian markets and health food stores. Adjust the amount of miso to suit your taste. Some like it delicate and watery, others dark and salty. Miso comes as sweet (white), salty (red), and very salty (black or hatchi in Japanese). 100 g (1 cup) white button mushrooms 100 g (½ cup) soft/silken tofu 10 g (1 tablespoon) fresh ginger 1 stem green onion 7 cm (3”) square of kombu seaweed (dried edible kelp) 3–4 dried shitake mushrooms (20 g) 1 tablespoon mirin (or ½ teaspoon rice vinegar and ½ teaspoon sugar) 1 tablespoon sake (or dry sherry, or white wine) 1½ litres (6 cups) water 100 g (6 tablespoons) red (aka) or white (shiro) miso, or to taste ӯ 

* Clean and cut the button mushrooms into wafer thin slices. * Handling with great care, drain and small-dice the silken tofu. * Peel and finely grate the ginger. * Clean and slice the green onion into wafer thin slices. ӯ 

* To make the Japanese soup stock (dashi): In a large stockpot, bring water to a slow boil with the kombu, dried shitake mushrooms, mirin, sake, and ginger. * Simmer the dashi for 5 minutes, then scoop out the shitake and the kombu. Cover and continue to simmer on low flame. * Cut the kombu into small squares. Small-dice the shitake - cutting away any hard stems - and return both to the dashi. * Add the tofu, being careful not to break it. * Bring the dashi to a boil, then turn the flame low. Put the miso paste into a fine-mesh sieve, lower into the soup and rub with a wooden spoon until it has all dissolved. Be careful not to let the miso boil as high heat destroys the healthy enzymes in miso and alters the flavour. * Stir in the button mushrooms and turn off the flame. Garnish with the green onions and serve immediately.

Jungle Soup This curious soup with a curious name has garnered a lot of fans at Zen River. The inspiration for it came about when Gakudo was reminiscing about a trip made to Suriname. He recalled a delicious curry soup made from peanuts and bananas, or maybe plantain. After several culinary exploratory adventures, this is what appeared from the depths of the kitchen jungle. Easy and quick to prepare, the exotic flavours are all at once sweet, hot and spicy. Overripe bananas can be pulverized into the stock to add flavour. Try substituting the bananas with medium-ripe plantain - those whose skins are starting to turn from green to black. 2–3 plantain or bananas 1 red chilli or ¼ red bell pepper 50 g (⅔ cup) snow peas 50 g (½ cup) bean sprouts 20 g (2 tablespoons) fresh ginger 3 medium cloves garlic 2–3 tablespoons sunflower oil 1¼ litres (5 cups) water 200 g (¾ cup) peanut butter 200 ml (¾ cup) coconut milk

20 g (2 tablespoons) palm sugar 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar or juice of ½ lemon 2–3 teaspoons Madras curry powder 1 teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon cardamom ¼ teaspoon turmeric Pinch of ground red medium chillies or sambal, to taste

ӯ 

* Cut the plantain into halves then peel or; peel the bananas and keep them whole. * Deseed and mince the red chilli or cut the bell pepper into thin slivers. * Cut the snow peas diagonally into halves. * Refresh the bean sprouts in cold water. * Peel and mince the garlic and ginger. ӯ 

* If using plantain, bring a small pot of water to a boil, put in the plantain and simmer for 10–15 minutes, or until a skewer slides through them easily. The riper they are, the quicker they will cook. Drain and slice the plantain into thin slices. Set aside. * In a stew pot on medium flame, sauté the red peppers or red chilli with the oil until caramelized, then stir in the garlic and ginger until fragrant. Add the spices and sauté for 30 seconds. * Put in the water, peanut butter, coconut milk, palm sugar, soy sauce, and vinegar or lemon juice. Bring to a boil, turn down the flame, cover and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Stir often because the peanut butter and palm sugar can easily stick. Season with salt to taste. * When ready to serve, return to a boil, add the bean sprouts, snow peas, sliced plantain and ground chilli or sambal, and simmer for 5–6 minutes. * If using regular bananas, slice, and gently stir them into the soup immediately before serving.

Spinach Soup with Chilli & Dill In the summertime, the Zen River vegetable patch provides plenty of vibrant, dark green leafy spinach, which is wonderful for soup. This soup is effulgent and piquant, with little hints of aromatics hidden in the corners. This favourite is affectionately referred to as “Popeye” soup. It is easy to make with frozen spinach if fresh is not available. 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 teaspoons mustard seeds 2 teaspoons cumin seeds, whole 3 medium cloves garlic, crushed 750 g (5 cups) frozen spinach, or 750 g (1½ pounds) fresh

1 litre (4 cups) water 1 tablespoon dried dill 1 teaspoon lemon juice or balsamic Dash of chilli powder or pinch of cayenne pepper, to taste Salt to taste

ӯ 

* In a frying pan, heat the olive oil over a medium flame, then add the cumin seeds and mustard seeds. Stir-fry until they begin to pop, about 30– 45 seconds. Add the garlic and continue to stir-fry until golden and fragrant. * In a large pot, bring the water to a boil. Add the spinach, and heat up gently. As soon as it simmers, whizz with an immersion blender until smooth. Add the lemon juice or balsamic vinegar. * Stir in the mustard seeds, cumin seeds, dill, and chilli powder or cayenne.

Spectacular Pumpkin Soup “Spectacular!” It was served during sesshin, a time when long zazen can hone the humblest of taste buds, which may account for the spectacular reception. For the same effect, besides a healthy dose of zazen, be sure to use small, dark orange pumpkins, like sugar or kabocha. (Big pumpkins used for Halloween are edible, but they don’t have much spunk or texture and are watery at best. Reserve those for spectacular, candlelit decorations dedicated to hungry ghosts and lost spirits!) The coriander and fresh, sliced chillies lend a Thai accent. You can also substitute the lemon zest with 3 trimmed and peeled lemon grass stalks dropped into the stock water (remove before serving).

Aromatic Soup Base

1 litre (4 cups) water 400 ml (1¾ cups) coconut milk 80g (½ cup) creamed coconut 6–8 kaffir lime leaves (or a strip of lime peel) 15 g (1½ tablespoons) palm sugar, jaggery or brown sugar 1 teaspoon lemon zest (or 3 lemon grass stalks) 1 level teaspoon turmeric ½ teaspoon ground cardamom ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch of ground red hot chilli pepper

2 teaspoons soy sauce 2–3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Vegetables

20 g (2 tablespoons) fresh ginger 1 medium clove garlic 1¼ kg (2½ pounds) sugar or kabocha pumpkin, or butternut squash 1 tablespoon sunflower oil

Garnish

6 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro) 1 red chilli pepper, any kind ӯ 

* Peel and mince the ginger and garlic. * Wash the pumpkin. Peel if the skin is tough. Cut the pumpkins in half and remove the seeds with a spoon. Cut into quarters and then crosswise into 2 cm (1”) strips. Next, cut the strips into ½ cm (¼”) slices so that you end up with trapezoid shapes. ӯ 

* In a stew pot on medium flame, heat the sunflower oil, and gently stir-fry the ginger and garlic until just fragrant but not coloured. * Add 1 litre (4 cups) of water and the coconut milk, creamed coconut, lime leaves, palm sugar, lemon grass stalks (if using), turmeric, cardamom, cinnamon, chilli pepper, and soy sauce. Bring to a boil over a medium flame and simmer for 1 minute to release the flavours. * Add the pumpkin, return to a boil, reduce the flame and simmer until the pumpkin is soft, but not falling apart, about 5–8 minutes. * Stir in the lemon zest (if using) and lemon juice. Heat and adjust the salt and seasoning to taste. Remove the lime leaves. * Remove the seeds from the red chilli pepper and slice into thin rounds. Roughly chop the fresh coriander and serve both with the soup as a garnish.

Double Mushroom Delight Soup I love Japan for its clear soups. In most training temples, it is served daily for lunch and supper with all kinds of fascinating things floating around: shimeji, enoki or shiitake mushrooms; chrysanthemum leaves; onions and fried (“aburaage”) tofu to name but a few. However, I also love Europe for its clear soups, especially those scattered with assorted wild mushrooms: chanterelle; saffron milk caps and white mushrooms laced with garlic, red onion and herbs. This is a combined East meets West version, although I imagine mushrooms of any kind will do, both wild and domestic. The shitake have a deep, earthy flavour that lends itself to such a bouillon. If you prefer a clear soup, remove the shitake after simmering the stock and reserve them for another purpose. We usually buy them dried at the local Asian market. 125 g (1¼ cups) button, forest, or other mushrooms 8–10 dried shitake mushrooms (about 45 g) 3 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar Dash of white pepper 1 stem green onion 1 tablespoon fresh parsley Salt to taste 1–2 tablespoons olive oil

Stock

2 large sticks celery 2 medium onions 2 medium carrots 4 medium cloves garlic 3 bay leaves 2 teaspoons dried sage 2 teaspoons dried rosemary 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 teaspoon paprika powder ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg ¼ teaspoon ground clove 2½ litres (10 cups) water

ӯ 

* Clean and slice the fresh mushrooms and set aside. * Slice the celery. Peel and roughly dice the onions, carrots, and garlic. ӯ 

* In a frying pan, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over a medium flame, and gently stir-fry the celery, onions, carrots, and garlic until they begin to brown on the edges. Add the bay leaves, sage, rosemary and thyme, and stir-fry for about 1 minute more. Transfer the stir-fried vegetables into a large stock pot along with the water, dried shitake mushrooms, nutmeg and clove. * Bring to a boil, lower the flame, cover, and gently simmer for about 50 minutes. When the stock is ready, strain out the cooked vegetables. Pour the liquid back into the stock pot. Add more water if needed to make 2 litres (8 cups) of stock. Season the stock with the soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, balsamic vinegar, paprika powder, and a dash of white pepper. Salt to taste. * Pick out the shitake from the strained vegetables and cut a few into very thin slices. * In a frying pan, heat a little olive oil over a medium flame and quickly stirfry the fresh mushrooms until they begin to release their juice. Set aside. * When the stock is ready to serve, stir in all the mushrooms with their juice. * Garnish with minced parsley and green onions cut into very delicate rings.

Confetti Corn Chowder The Acadia Cafe in Bar Harbor, Maine, served such a hot, comforting chowder. Coming in freezing after a walk alongside the Porcupine Islands, with the weather often hitting sub-zero temperatures, this was a soup to take refuge in. This version includes vibrant colours of red, purple, yellow, white and green, but the essence of simple comfort food remains. Use bouillon to enhance the soup only if needed. For a dairy-free version, replace the milk with water and stir in 125 ml (½ cup) cream substitute just before serving. 800 g (1¾ pounds) floury potatoes, such as Russet, Idaho or King Edward’s 1 small red onion ½ red bell pepper 2 medium cloves garlic 1 stem green onion 1 teaspoon ground cumin 3–4 bay leaves

600 ml (2½ cups) milk 180 ml (¾ cup) water 225 g (1 cup) canned or frozen sweet corn kernels Salt and white pepper to taste 1 tablespoon olive oil or butter Dash of vegetable bouillon powder (optional) ӯ 

* Peel and medium-dice the potatoes. * Peel and thinly slice the red onion with the grain. * Deseed and cut the bell pepper into thin slivers. * Peel and mince the garlic. * Slice both the white and green parts of the green onion into thin rounds. ӯ 

* In a stew pot on medium flame heat the olive oil or butter and stir-fry the garlic until fragrant. Add the cumin and stir-fry for about 30 seconds. Put in the potatoes, milk, water, and bay leaves. Return to a boil. Turn down the flame and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are soft. * Optional: To add creaminess, scoop out a spoonful of the potatoes, whizz in a blender until smooth, and return to the soup. * While the potatoes are cooking, heat a tablespoons of oil/butter in a frying pan, and stir-fry the red onions and red bell pepper until they have caramelized but still retain their colours. Reserve one spoonful of the stir-fried vegetables for garnish and add the rest to the potatoes. * Add the sweet corn kernels (and any juice from the can) to the soup, and simmer for about 5 minutes to marry the flavours. Adjust the seasonings to taste, adding some bouillon powder if needed. * Not long before serving, add the reserved red bell pepper and red onions. The oil should make them float prettily on the surface. * Just before serving, add the cream substitute (if using) and green onions.

Main Street in Bar Harbor, Maine, US. Acadia Cafe is located on the right. Circa 1989

Egg Flower Tomato Soup On a short but epic trip to China, we were often served a big tureen of soup with thin slices of peeled, fresh tomatoes, and ribbons of egg swirled through it. On returning home I couldn’t find a similar recipe in my cookbooks, and so began an adventure to intuit a way to that amazing soup we ate somewhere in Ningbo. I’m sure this doesn’t do it justice, but it comes pretty close to my memory. A perfect soup for when tomatoes are too ripe for a salad. 6 ripe vine tomatoes, about 500 g (1 pound) 2 eggs 3 medium cloves garlic 1 tablespoon sunflower oil 1½ litres (6 cups) of water ¼ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder (A blend of ground fennel, clove, cinnamon, star anise and white pepper) 3–4 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 3 tablespoons tomato paste A pinch of MSG to enhance the flavours (optional) 1 tablespoon black or white sesame seeds, roasted 2 stems green onions, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon roasted sesame oil Generous sprinkle white pepper Salt to taste ӯ 

* Prick the tomatoes with a sharp knife and place in a heatproof bowl. Cover with boiling water and wait for the peel to split, anywhere between 30 seconds and 3 minutes depending on the size and ripeness of the tomatoes. Drain, peel, and slice into thin half moons. Set aside. * In a small jug with a good spout, beat the eggs. Set aside. * Peel and mince the garlic. ӯ 

* In a stew pot, heat the sunflower oil on medium flame. Add the garlic and stir-fry until fragrant, but don’t let it colour. Add the water and bring to a boil. * Stir in the five-spice powder, soy sauce, rice vinegar, and tomato paste. Simmer for 15–20 minutes to release the flavours. Adjust the seasoning to taste. * Just before serving, bring the soup to a rapid boil. * With the flame still on, drizzle a thin stream of the eggs into the soup while continuously whisking with a metal whisk or chopsticks. A whisk will break the egg into “flowers”; chopsticks will produce thin ribbons. * Add the fresh tomatoes. Bring almost to a boil, and then turn off the flame. Season to taste with salt and white pepper, and MSG if desired. * Garnish with sliced green onions, roasted sesame seeds, and a sprinkle of sesame oil.

Groningen Mustard Soup with Leek Groningen, the beautiful province where Zen River Temple is located, is famous for its pungent mustard made from coarsely ground black mustard seeds. Groningen mustard soup is truly local fare, and this recipe is an affectionate ode to its namesake. Feel free to make it as spicy as you like by simply adding more mustard! It is important, though, to use good quality whole grain varieties. Groningen mustard is best, if not, try English or Dijon. 600 g (4 medium) Russets/Idaho or King Edward’s potatoes 3 medium cloves garlic 4 medium leeks 2 tablespoons olive oil

3 bay leaves 1½ litres (6 cups) Veg. Stock (p. 252) 100 g (½ cup) whole grain Groningen mustard 75 ml (⅓ cup) cream, any kind

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* Peel and dice the potatoes and peel and mince the garlic. * Trim away the dark green leaves from the leek. Slice thickly, rinse and drain. ӯ 

* In a stew pot, heat the olive oil on medium flame and add the leeks and bay leaves. Sauté until the leeks begin to soften. * Stir in the garlic and sauté until it becomes fragrant. Pour in the vegetable stock and add the potatoes. Bring to a boil and simmer until the potatoes are cooked, about 15 minutes. For a richer stock, stir in a little bouillon powder. * Remove the bay leaves. Transfer the soup to a kitchen blender or use an immersion blender. Blend until silky smooth. Pour into a clean pot, stir in the mustard, and reheat. * Season with extra mustard to taste. Stir in the cream just before serving.

Carrot & Roasted Red Paprika Soup “I said I didn’t like carrots, but I ate two bowls of it!” Kitty exclaimed. 6 medium carrots, new crop carrots will have more flavour 2 red bell peppers 2 medium cloves garlic 2 tablespoons olive oil for frying 1½ litres (6 cups) water

1 teaspoon lemon zest 2 teaspoons lemon juice, or to taste 1 teaspoon paprika powder ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika powder (Pimentón de la Vera) ӯ 

* Peel and cut the carrots into equal sized rings. * Deseed and cut the bell peppers into large wedges. * Peel the garlic. ӯ 

* In a large stew pot, stir-fry the red bell peppers and garlic cloves with the olive oil on low flame until the skins of the bell peppers are caramelized and a nice dark colour, about 20 minutes. * Add the water and carrots to the peppers and garlic. Bring to a boil, turn the flame low and simmer until the carrots are soft. Next add the lemon zest and juice. Don’t let the zest cook too long or it will become bitter. * Blend with an immersion or kitchen blender until smooth. * If the carrots are older, you may want to add a little bouillon powder. * Season with the paprika powder and smoked paprika powder.

Hot Sour Soup This soup is a doddle to make. Yet there is an edge to it. While balancing the hot and sour, I often think that the result is so spicy that no one will be able to eat it! Yet it turns out that it’s never spicy enough. Of course, the degree of heat is up to the cook, but bear in mind who you are cooking for. For our Spanish guests, I turn the heat down several notches; Americans and Dutch get an extra dash of pepper to spice it up. It’s a remedial recipe. The simple fusion of hot and sour cleanses both the palette and the soul. 8 cm (4”) square of kombu seaweed (dried edible kelp) 2 medium carrots 80 g (1 cup) snow peas 100 g (1 cup) mushrooms 2 stems green onions 150 g (5 ounces) soft/silken tofu 1 medium clove garlic 1 tablespoon sesame seeds

1½ litres (6 cups) water 75 ml (⅓ cup) soy sauce 75 ml (⅓ cup) white vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar or palm sugar Generous dash of white pepper Pinch of cayenne pepper, to taste 1 teaspoon sesame oil ӯ 

* Rinse the kombu and soak it in a little warm water for 20 minutes. Reserve the soaking water for the soup. * Peel the carrots and cut into thin matchstick style slices. * Cut the snow peas into thin matchstick style slices. * Rinse, dry, and slice the mushrooms as thinly as possible. * Cut the green onions into very thin slices using a 45 degree angle. * Handling with great care, drain and small-dice the silken tofu with a sharp knife. Using a flat spatula, lift the tofu off the cutting board and move to a flat plate, being careful not to crumble it. * Peel and thinly slice the garlic. * Cut the kombu into small squares and return to the soaking water. * In a frying pan on medium flame, roast the sesame seeds until golden. ӯ 

* In a large pot on medium flame, heat the water, sugar, and garlic. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 3 minutes. Scoop out the garlic slices and reserve for another purpose. * Add the cayenne and white pepper. Note: the longer cayenne cooks, the hotter the stock will become. * Bring back to a boil and add the carrots. Simmer for a few minutes until the carrots are tender. * Add the snow peas, silken tofu, kombu, and the soaking water. * Season with the soy sauce and white vinegar, and reheat. * Serve garnished with the sesame seeds, mushrooms and green onions, and a drizzle of sesame oil.

Rue Hérold Pumpkin Soup While visiting my step-grandmother in the ‘80s, she taught me how to cook pumpkin soup. Her apartment was located on the first floor of a grand old aging town house on Rue Hérold, a street not far from the Louvre in Paris. Creeping up the walls were bookcases brimming with various books in Chinese, French, Russian, and English, as well as shelves filled with volumes on Russian history written by her late husband and translated into many languages. The high ceilings were painted with blue skies, white clouds and fat cherubs – all, according to her, badly restored by an amateur artist. In a corner of the old kitchen stood a shallow stone sink surrounded by blue and white French tiles. In the opposite corner nested a small tub with a wobbly shower head, the whole being enclosed by a thick plastic curtain. There, tucked between the sink and the shower, under an 17th century chimney vent, the soup would simmer on a two-burner stove perched on top of a rickety cabinet. The soup was then pureed through a “mouli,” a vintage hand-held puree device. I was mystified by the subtle sweetness and comforting quality of the pumpkin, and loved the wonderful surprise of sour cream hiding in the bottom of the bowl. This soup was one of my step-grandmother’s favourites, and it’s become one of mine, too. Unlike that fascinating apartment, this soup is a very simple, straightforward affair. Use sugar pumpkins because they have the most flavour by far, and if possible, avoid using commercial bouillon powder with MSG as it will detract from the delicate flavours. Substitute the pumpkin with butternut squash; or organic carrots plus three bay leaves for an excellent carrot soup. 1 kg (2¼ pounds) sugar pumpkin 600 ml (2½ cups) milk, any kind 600 ml (2½ cups) water Dash of nutmeg, to taste Salt to taste 4 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream Dash of vegetable boullion (optional) ӯ 

* Clean the pumpkin and cut it in half. Spoon out the seeds. Cut into quarters and then crosswise into narrow strips.If the skin is very thick, first slice into strips then peel the pumpkin. Medium-dice each strip. * Put the pumpkin in a pot with the milk, water, and nutmeg. Bring to a light boil, turn down the flame and gently simmer for about 5-8 minutes, or until the pumpkin is tender. If needed, add a little vegetable bouillon to taste. * Puree with an immersion or kitchen blender (or a mouli if you happen to have one!) until smooth. Place a dollop of crème fraîche or sour cream in the bottom of each bowl and ladle in the soup. Tip: for a milk-free version use 1 litre (4 cups) of water to cook the pumpkin and add 240 ml (1 cup) soy cream just before serving.

White Bean, Chilli & Rocket Soup 175 g (1 cup) dried white navy beans 2 medium red onions 1 red bell pepper 3 medium cloves garlic 75 g (3 cups) rocket (arugula) 1 small bunch fresh parsley 2 tablespoons olive oil for frying 1 litre (4 cups) Vegetable Stock (p. 252), or stock cubes 3–4 bay leaves Pinch of ground chillies or ¼ teaspoon chilli powder, to taste 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves Dash of white pepper 2 teaspoons lemon zest 2 teaspoons lemon juice or balsamic vinegar Salt to taste ¼ teaspoon of smoked paprika powder (Pimentón de la Vera) ӯ 

* Soak the navy beans overnight. Drain and rinse. Put the beans in a pot, cover with about 1 litre (4 cups) of water. (Optional: add 1 teaspoon of savory in a tea sack to aid digestion.) Simmer gently until cooked, about 1–1½ hours. Alternatively, use a pressure cooker and cook for 6–8 minutes with about 750 ml (3 cups) of water. Reserve the cooking water for the soup. When time is lacking, use 500 g (12 ounces) of bottled or canned, drained white navy beans – less tasty, but a quick, workable solution. * Peel and thinly slice the red onion. * Deseed and cut the red bell pepper into thin, short slices, keeping the slices the same size as the red onion. * Peel and mince the garlic. * Rinse and cut the rocket into short lengths. * Roughly chop the parsley leaves and finely chop the stems. ӯ 

* In a stew pot on medium flame, heat the olive oil, and then add the red onion and red bell pepper. Sauté until golden and caramelized, about 10 minutes. * Add the garlic and sauté a few minutes until fragrant. * Pour in the stock, add the bay leaves, chilli powder, thyme, and white pepper, and bring to a boil. * Add the cooked white beans with ½ litre (2 cups) of the cooking water. Simmer for 10 minutes on low flame to marry the flavours. * Stir in the lemon zest and lemon juice. Salt to taste. * Take off the flame. Just before serving, stir in the smoked paprika powder, fresh parsley, and rocket. * Serve with generous amounts of Parmesan cheese and sour cream.

Piquant Red Onion Soup One evening during sesshin, I discovered to my horror there was barely any Worcestershire sauce left in the cabinet with which to make this soup. What to do? Scrutinizing the ingredients listed on the almost empty bottle and tasting what was left in it, we improvised with a pinch of cloves, a spoonful of treacle, a little lime zest, a dash of soy sauce and a splash of balsamic vinegar. The soup survived and so did we! 500 g (6 small) red onions 100 g (1 cup) white mushrooms 2 stems green onions 4 medium cloves garlic 2 teaspoons dried rosemary 2 teaspoons dried sage 4 bay leaves 2½ tablespoons soy sauce 2½ tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon red wine or balsamic vinegar Pinch of cayenne pepper, to taste 1½ litres (6 cups) Vegetable Stock (p. 252) 2 tablespoons olive oil or butter ӯ 

* Peel and cut the red onions into thin crescent moon slices, cutting along the grain. * Clean the mushrooms and slice very thin. * Discard the outer leaf of the green onions and slice into very thin rounds. * Peel and mince the garlic. ӯ 

* In a stew pot, melt the butter or heat the oil. Put in the red onions and stir-fry until caramelized on the edges. Add the garlic and stir-fry until fragrant. * Make a bouquet garni by putting the rosemary and sage into a tea ball or paper tea sack stapled closed. * Pour in the vegetable stock and add the bouquet garni and bay leaves. Simmer for 15–20 minutes, or until the onions become soft. * Stir in the soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, and cayenne. * Simmer for a few minutes and salt to taste. * Remove the bouquet garni. * Serve garnished with the mushrooms and green onions.

Salmorejo Zen River receives many members from Spain who, besides having a passion for Zen, also have a passion to escape the dry heat of Spanish summers. Thanks to their influence, we serve a chilled Spanish-style soup to welcome them. This is amazingly simple to make, tastes delicious, and has a surprisingly delicate pink colour. Fresh tomatoes can be substituted with 750 ml of tomato passata (an uncooked, strained purée of tomatoes) but the purée may then need thinning with water, depending on its strength and consistency. 1 kg (2¼ pounds) ripe tomatoes 1 green bell pepper 80 g (½ cup) blanched almonds, or 1–2 slices stale white bread 120 g (¾ cup) Spanish green olives 4 teaspoons red wine vinegar

4–5 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons capers ½ garlic clove Dash of chilli powder Salt to taste A few chives for garnish

ӯ 

* Prick the fresh tomatoes with a knife and place in a heatproof bowl. Cover with boiling water and wait for the peel to split, about 1–3 minutes, depending on their size and ripeness. Drain, peel, and cut into halves. * Deseed the green bell pepper and cut into medium pieces. Peel the garlic. * Purée all the ingredients with an immersion blender or in a food processor. Adjust the seasoning to taste. Chill before serving. * Garnish with snippets of chives and chopped hard-boiled eggs (optional).

Middle Eastern-Style Lentil Soup We were served a soup like this at a Middle-Eastern restaurant in Salt Lake City. While we ate, belly dancers shimmied around the aisles, jingling and jangling to the exotic sounds of Arabian music. It was a memorable evening! 225 g (1 cup) green or blonde lentils 1 large onion 3 medium cloves garlic 1 red bell pepper A few sprigs of fresh parsley 12–15 green cardamom pods or 1–1½ teaspoons ground

2 tablespoons olive oil 1½ litres (6 cups) Vegetable Stock (p. 252) or water with 1–2 teaspoons bouillon powder 2–3 bay leaves Generous pinch of cloves Dash of white pepper

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* Pick through the lentils to remove any grit or stones, then rinse and drain. * Peel and small-dice the onions, and peel and mince the garlic. * Deseed and small-dice the red pepper and coarsely chop the fresh parsley. * Grind the cardamom pods in a pestle and mortar until the husks fall off. Remove the husks and roughly grind the remaining black seeds. ӯ 

* In a stew pot on medium flame, heat the olive oil and lightly brown the onions and red peppers. Add the garlic and stir-fry one minute more. * Put in the stock, lentils, bay leaves, cardamom, clove and pepper, bring to a boil, turn down the flame, cover and simmer for 30–35 minutes, or until the lentils are tender. Salt to taste. Garnish with the chopped parsley.

Basic Vegetable Stock This simple recipe creates a light, delicate vegetable stock. Any rough chopped vegetables in equal amounts will do. If a darker stock is required, just increase the numbers of vegetables. To maintain the subtle flavours, begin with cold water and be careful not to let it boil. Stores well in the freezer. 2 2 2 1 6

large carrots large sticks celery large onions medium clove garlic bay leaves

Optional Extras:

150 g (1½ cups) whole mushrooms Parsley stems 1 sprig of thyme, or other fresh herbs 2 tomatoes

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* Slice the carrots and celery, and peel and roughly chop the onions, garlic and other vegetables you have chosen for the stock. ӯ 

* In a frying pan on medium flame, heat a little olive oil and gently stir-fry the onions, carrots, garlic, and celery until they begin to lightly brown on the edges. Add the bay leaves, herbs if using, and stir-fry for about 1 minute more. Put all the vegetables into a large stock pot filled with 2½ litres (10 cups) of cold water. * Just before the water begins to boil, turn down and gently simmer on low flame for about 50 minutes. Stir now and then. When the stock has evaporated by about one quarter, strain the stock into a clean pot using a fine mesh sieve. Pour the liquid into a suitable container when cold.

Cakes Cookies Muffins & Desserts

About Cakes & Cookies

Why do I find it easier, and quicker, to measure most cake recipes using the US standard system of measurements? Maybe living in the US for some time did it, where most things are measured by cups instead of grams. Perhaps Liz, the first cake baker at Zen River who dared to use the aging oven, also had an influence because she always measured using cups; or perhaps, to be honest, I never did get used to metric. When I first started baking at Zen River, I was sure there must be a simple, underlying formula for cake recipes, even though all the recipes I followed were different. It took many a cake to discover that my suspicions were correct. Most cakes, muffins and cookies can be built around a 250 g block (4 sticks) of butter. Of course, 250 grams of butter would make rather a lot of cake or muffins in one batch, so each recipe here is divided to make 12 to 18 muffins or cookies, or one large cake or loaf. The most important piece of advice for any aspiring cookie or cake baker is never to over mix the flour into the batter. Too much mixing releases gluten. Gluten is the protein in wheat that gives rise and elasticity to bread, but if released in a cake will result in a heavy, stodgy brick. So always fold in flour as lightly, gently, and quickly as possible. If using an electric mixer, then it should be mixed within 20 seconds, just long enough to combine everything while not releasing the gluten from the flour. Zen River has a splendid old Quatfass stove, which someone once said should be in a museum by now. With its white enamel finish and old-fashioned knobs, it is simply adorable. The only snag is that there is no thermostat in the oven. The longer it’s on, the hotter it gets. After singeing many a cake, I finally figured out the baking times. I am pleased to say that more often than not, a cake appears that is good enough to present to the table at coffee break! Here are some more tips to help you bake presentable cakes: • All spoon measures used a metric 5 ml measuring teaspoon, and a 15 ml measuring tablespoon. The cake recipes are listed using metric standard measurements followed by their US equivalents. For best results, stay with one or the other. Don’t mix them up! • Whole wheat flour can be substituted for white flour in all the recipes. The only difference is they will raise less and may need a few minutes longer in the oven to bake. • Cakes are ready when a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out clean, the edges of the cake start to lift or pull away from the sides of the tin, and the cake springs back when touched. One’s nose can also smell if a cake is ready. • If you notice that your cakes regularly crack in the middle, next time try reducing the oven temperature to 170 °C (340 °F). Continue to bake until the edges start to pull away from the tin. Test for done-ness using a toothpick. • Be careful to not open the oven door prematurely when baking as the cold air rushing in may cause it to collapse. • For a moist cake, place a small oven dish filled with water on the bottom rack of the oven, which will create some steam during the baking process.

Banana Bread Banana bread is really a cake, I think. Still, whatever the name, it’s a wonderful way to use up ripe bananas. And, the riper, more spotted, and bruised the bananas are, the better. I grew up thinking, erroneously, that cake baking also meant destroying the kitchen with sugar and eggs splattered up the walls, batter flying across the counters, and flour falling into one’s shoes. These days, when I make banana bread, I always remember my American friends who impressed me with their easy-going way of baking everyday, no fuss cakes and muffins, seamlessly throwing them together in just a few minutes without a shred of drama. During the morning breakfast prep, there is usually a perfect window of time to effortlessly whisk a cake together, and, happily to say, with none of the preconceived mess. ӯ 

120 ml (½ cup) sunflower oil 110 g (½ cup) sugar 2 medium eggs ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg 3 ripe bananas (1½ cups) 315 g (2 cups) white or whole wheat flour 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons raisins 2 tablespoons walnuts or pumpkin seeds ӯ 

* Preheat the oven to 180 °C (360 °F). * Line a 25 cm (10”) cake tin with a 18 cm (7”) wide sheet of parchment paper. * In a mixing bowl, beat the oil, sugar, eggs, and nutmeg with an electric mixer. * Puree the bananas using a fork or immersion blender, and then beat them into the oil and sugar mixture. Stir in the raisins and walnuts or pumpkin seeds. * In a clean bowl, combine the flour, baking powder and salt. * Using a large, shallow metal spoon or firm spatula, reach into the bottom of the mixing bowl and cut and fold the flour into the wet ingredients until just combined. Turn the bowl after each fold so that the ingredients are evenly distributed. Work quickly and lightly. Alternatively, beat for a few seconds with an electric beater on low speed and finish with few folds of a spatula, reaching to the bottom of the bowl. * Spoon in and level the batter into the lined cake tin. * Bake for 35–45 minutes, depending on your oven, or until a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean and the cake lifts away from the edges of the tin. Remove from the tin and cool on a wire rack.

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Vanilla Drop Scones This is a simple, one drop batter – somewhere between a scone, a cookie and a cup cake. It’s moist on the inside and crunchy on the outside. Enjoy with a good old English cup of tea. 125 g (½ cup) butter, softened 1 tablespoon of baking powder 110 g (½ cup) white sugar ½ teaspoon salt 2–3 teaspoons lemon zest 2 medium eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, or to taste 120 ml (½ cup) runny yogurt 315 g (2 cups) white flour 50 g (¼ cup) currants ӯ 

* Preheat the oven to 180 °C (360 °F). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. * In a large mixing bowl, cream the butter, sugar, lemon zest, and vanilla extract with an electric mixer on high speed. * In a clean bowl, combine the flour, baking powder and salt. Put the flour into the creamed butter and sugar. Beat with an electric mixer on low speed until it resembles loose bread crumbs. Alternatively, use your fingers and thumb tips and lightly rub the dry ingredients into the creamed butter and sugar. * In a small jug, whisk the yogurt and eggs together with the currants. * Using a blunt knife or firm spatula, cut the yogurt and eggs into the flour until evenly distributed, working from the bottom of the bowl. * With a dessert spoon, drop the batter into small mounds onto the baking tray, spaced 2 cm apart. Use a spatula to push it off the spoon. * Bake for 16–18 minutes, or until golden on the edges and lightly brown underneath. Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack.

Shortbread Shortbread can be beaten and baked in under half an hour – and unless you plan on forgetting it’s in the oven, little can go wrong with it. Out of all the cakes we bake, this is probably one of the most loved. 125 g (½ cup) butter, softened 110 g (½ cup) white sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

½ teaspoon salt 315 g (2 cups) white flour ӯ 

* Grease a 25 cm (10”) springform cake tin and preheat the oven to 180 °C (360 °F). * Beat the butter, sugar, salt, and vanilla till creamy and fluffy. * Add the flour to the creamed butter and sugar and beat with an electric mixer on low speed until it resembles bread crumbs. * Place the mixture into a the cake tin. Using a shallow metal spoon and working from the edges into the centre, press and smooth the surface so that the mixture is compact and level. * Bake for 18–20 minutes, or until the cake turns golden on the edges. The longer it bakes, the crunchier it gets. * Remove from the oven, and while still hot, release the band and cut immediately. * Cool completely, about 30 minutes. Slide onto a plate, then decorate with Lemon Cream Cheese Frosting (p. 298).

Chocolate Muffin Cake with Chilli & Orange Chocolate and chilli pepper – such a divine combination! Inspired by the movie “Chocolat,” these two simple ingredients turn muffins into something intriguing and mysterious. When pressed for time, the same batter makes for an equally delicious cake. This recipe makes 12 large or 24 small muffins, or one cake using a bundt form cake tin. For a vegan cake, use chia seeds instead of eggs (p. 314). 120 ml (½ cup) sunflower oil 110 g (½ cup) white sugar 240 ml (1 cup) orange juice 1 teaspoon orange zest ½ teaspoon vanilla extract Generous pinch of cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon salt

2 eggs, or 4 teaspoons ground chia seeds 240 g (1½ cups) flour 50 g (½ cup) cocoa powder 1 tablespoon of baking powder 60 g (¼ cup) chocolate chips ӯ 

* Preheat the oven to 190 °C (375 °F). Line the muffin tins with baking cups. * In a mixing bowl, whisk together the oil, sugar, orange juice and zest, vanilla, cayenne, salt, and eggs or chia seeds. Stir in the chocolate chips. * In a clean bowl, combine the flour, cocoa powder, and baking powder. * Using a large, shallow metal spoon or firm spatula, reach into the bottom of the mixing bowl and cut and fold the flour into the wet ingredients until just combined. Turn the bowl after each fold so that the ingredients are evenly distributed. Work quickly and lightly. Alternatively, beat for a few seconds with an electric beater on low speed and finish with a few folds using a spatula, reaching to the bottom of the bowl. Drop the batter into the muffin cups, or into a greased bundt form cake tin. * Bake muffins for 16–18 minutes and a cake for 35–45 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. Remove from the oven. Wait four minutes, then remove from the tins, and cool on a wire rack.

Coffee Cake During sesshin, most people drink coffee to cope with the pre-dawn wake up call. Needless to say, there is not much left by 5:30 am. One morning, though, there was indeed some leftover coffee, which inspired this Coffee Cake. If no leftovers are to be had, instant coffee works just fine. For a vegan cake, use sunflower oil instead of butter, and chia seeds instead of eggs. 125 g (½ cup) butter, or 125 ml (½ cup) sunflower oil 125 g (½ cup packed) dark brown sugar 240 ml (1 cup) espresso, or 3 tablespoons instant coffee dissolved in 240 ml (1 cup) hot water

2 medium eggs, or 4 teaspoons ground chia seeds 4 tablespoons broken walnuts 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 315 g (2 cups) flour 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

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* Preheat the oven to 190 °C (375 °F). * Line a 25 cm (10”) cake tin with a 18 cm (7”) wide sheet of parchment paper. * Melt the butter, if using, pour into a mixing bowl and whisk in the brown sugar. * Gradually whisk the coffee into the sugar and melted butter, or sunflower oil. Wait for it to cool, then beat in the eggs, or chia seeds. Stir in the walnuts and vanilla extract. * In a clean bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. * Using a large, shallow metal spoon or firm spatula, reach into the bottom of the mixing bowl and cut and fold the flour into the wet ingredients until just combined. Turn the bowl after each fold so that the ingredients are evenly distributed. Alternatively, beat for a few seconds with an electric beater on low speed, and finish with a few folds using a spatula, reaching to the bottom of the bowl. Scoop the batter into the cake tin and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of dark brown sugar. * Bake for 35–45 minutes, depending on your oven, or until a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. Remove from the oven. Wait four minutes, then remove from the tin, and cool on a wire rack.

Coffee Butter Frosting A perfect frosting for coffee cake - a little bit buttery, but not overtly so. 100 g (⅓ cup) cream cheese 2 teaspoons butter, softened ½ teaspoon instant coffee dissolved in 1 tablespoon warm water 3 tablespoons powdered sugar ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract or to taste ӯ 

In a tall jug, beat all the above until firm and fluffy, about 2–3 minutes.

Almond Muffins Almond muffins can fulfil the Dutch penchant for “gevulde koek,” or almond cookies. If in doubt which kind of muffin to make, you can’t go wrong with almond muffins. When there are no almonds to be had – they are rather a delicacy in these parts – then almond extract by itself imparts enough almond flavour. Just like the chocolate muffin recipe, this also makes a fine cake. This recipe makes 12–18 muffins, or one cake using a 25 cm (10”) cake tin. 110 g (½ cup) white sugar 2 medium eggs 240 ml (1 cup) buttermilk 1½ teaspoons almond extract 125 g (½ cup) butter, melted

20 g (2 tablespoons) slivered almonds and a few to top the muffins 315 g (2 cups) white flour 1 tablespoon of baking powder ½ teaspoon salt

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* Preheat the oven to 180 °C (360 °F) and grease the muffin or cake tin. * In a mixing bowl combine the sugar, eggs, buttermilk, and almond extract. * Melt the butter in a small pan on a low flame, then whisk it into the wet ingredients until smooth. Stir in the slivered almonds. * In a clean bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. * Using a large, shallow metal spoon or firm spatula, reach into the bottom of the mixing bowl and cut and fold the flour into the wet ingredients until just combined. Turn the bowl after each fold so that the ingredients are evenly distributed. Alternatively, beat for a few seconds with an electric beater on low speed, and finish with a few folds using a spatula, reaching to the bottom of the bowl. Divide the batter equally among the muffin cups, or pour into a well-greased cake tin. Top each muffin with an almond sliver, or sprinkle a few on the cake. * Bake muffins for 16–18 minutes and a cake for 25–35 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Remove from the oven. Wait four minutes, then remove from the tins, and cool on a wire rack.

Orange & Walnut Cake The Zen River garden is graced with two aging walnut trees. They were planted by the minister who built the property in 1936. Each autumn, they drop countless walnuts all over the lawn. For a few short months, walnuts appear everywhere on the menu. Not surprisingly, they often show up in cakes. Here, they are combined with orange to make a delicate, moist, dairy-free cake. The batter is thin, so it may take longer than usual to bake. Remember, a toothpick never lies! 120 ml (½ cup) sunflower oil 110 g (½ cup) white sugar 2 medium eggs 250 ml (1 cup) orange juice 1 teaspoon grated orange zest ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

4 tablespoons broken walnuts 315 g (2 cups) white flour 1 tablespoon of baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar ӯ 

* Preheat the oven to 190 °C (375 °F). Grease a 22 cm (9”) springform cake tin. * In a mixing bowl, combine the oil, sugar, eggs, orange juice, orange zest, and vanilla. Beat together until frothy. Stir in the walnuts. * In a clean bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. * Using a large, shallow metal spoon or firm spatula, reach into the bottom of the mixing bowl and cut and fold the flour into the wet ingredients until just combined. Knock out any large lumps. Alternatively, beat for a few seconds with an electric beater on low speed and finish with a few folds using a spatula, reaching to the bottom of the bowl. (Be careful to mix just until the ingredients are combined. Mixing too long releases the gluten in the flour, resulting in a heavy, dense cake.) * Pour into the cake tin, sprinkle with sugar, and bake for 35–45 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean when inserted into the centre of the cake. * Remove from the oven. Wait four minutes, then remove from the cake tin and cool on a cooling rack.

Biscotti Simple to make and easy to bake, biscotti are a perfect complement to cappuccino. The crunchiness lends itself to coffee dunking. Biscotti are often made the same morning as scrambled eggs so that the reserved yolks can be used in the scramble. If not, the temple chickens get a small treat. 120 ml (½ cup) sunflower oil 110 g (½ cup) white sugar 1 egg 2 egg whites 1½ teaspoons almond extract

20 g (1 tablespoon) blanched almonds 315 g (2 cups) white flour 2 teaspoons of baking powder ½ teaspoon salt

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* Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F) Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. * Combine the oil, sugar, egg, egg whites, and almond extract. Whisk well until frothy. Stir in the chopped almonds. * In a clean bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Using a large, shallow metal spoon, cut and fold the flour into the wet ingredients until just combined. * On the baking sheet, make two rectangular shapes 2 cm (¾”) deep and 10 cm (4”) wide. Pinch the waists of each rectangle so they bake into a uniform size. * Bake for 25 minutes. Remove the biscotti from the oven, but keep the oven on. Slide the biscotti onto a wire rack and cool for five minutes. Then cut with a sharp, serrated knife into 1½ cm (½") wide fingers at a slight angle. * Lay the biscotti fingers side by side on the baking sheet, cut side up. Bake for five more minutes. Remove from the oven, gently slide the biscotti onto the rack, and cool completely. Store in an airtight container.

Pineapple Coconut Upside Down Cake This cake and I share a history. They taught us how to bake it at school – really! Our “domestic science” teacher demonstrated how to line the base of a cake tin with pineapple rings so that when the cake is flipped after baking, the rings appeared on top. However, the recipe has changed a bit since then with the addition of coconut, which adds a nice texture, and a hint of clove, which nicely accents the pineapple. I also prefer pineapple chunks stirred throughout because the cake becomes all the more crumbly and moist. “Any style okay,” as Hojosan would say. 120 ml (½ cup) sunflower oil 110 g (½ cup) sugar 2 medium eggs ½ teaspoon vanilla extract Dash of ground cloves 240 ml (1 cup) pineapple juice, from the can with pineapple or fruit juice to make up the difference

75 g (1 cup) desiccated coconut (½ for the batter and ½ for the topping) 300 g (1 cup) canned pineapple chunks 315 g (2 cups) white flour 1 tablespoon of baking powder ½ teaspoon salt A little butter for greasing the tin.

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* Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F). Line the base of a 25 cm (10”) springform cake tin with parchment paper and grease the sides with butter. * In a glass mixing bowl, whisk together the oil, sugar, eggs, vanilla extract, cloves, pineapple juice, and fruit juice if needed, along with half of the desiccated coconut. * Stir in the pineapple chunks or arrange them on the bottom of the cake tin. * In a clean bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. * Using a large, shallow metal spoon or firm spatula, reach into the bottom of the mixing bowl and cut and fold the flour into the wet ingredients until just combined. Knock out any large lumps. Turn the bowl after each fold so that the ingredients are evenly distributed. Alternatively, beat for a few seconds with an electric beater on low speed, and finish with a few folds using a spatula, reaching to the bottom of the bowl. * Pour the batter into the cake tin, covering the pineapple. Before placing the cake tin into the oven, set it on a pizza tray to prevent smoking in the oven. * Bake for 30–40 minutes, depending on your oven, or until a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean and the cake lifts away from the edges of the tin. * Take out of oven and release the cake from the edges using a narrow metal spatula. Remove the band and place a wide, flat plate or tray over the top. Carefully turn over. Remove the base of the tin from the cake and peel off the paper. Slide the cake onto a cooling rack. * In a dry skillet, toast the remaining coconut until golden brown. When the cake has cooled, slice then sprinkle with the toasted coconut.

Quark Cake If you appreciate cheesecake but prefer a lighter taste, or a less calorific affair, this may be the cake for you. This is a happy, delectable cake, perfect for festive celebrations. We often serve it following a long retreat or after “Shuso Hossenshiki,” the concluding ceremony for a ninety day training period. The head monk, who doesn’t leave Zen River during that time, gives a Dharma talk and braves Dharma Combat. When the cake finally arrives, the head monk is relieved and relaxed enough to enjoy it, as is the abbot!! Bake the cake the day before so it can cool and improve.

Base:

200 g (7 ounces) digestive biscuits (or graham crackers) 50 g (¼ cup) butter 50 g (¼ cup) sugar

Batter:

5 large or 6 medium eggs 175 g (¾ cup) white sugar 2 teaspoons vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon nutmeg (optional) 1 teaspoon salt 1 kg (4 cups) quark or Greek yogurt

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* Preheat the oven to 215 °C (425 °F). Line the base and band of a 25 cm (10”) round springform cake tin with parchment paper to preserve the delicate flavour. * Crumble the digestive biscuits until they resemble fine bread crumbs. Melt the butter. Mix the crumbs, butter, and sugar and press flat into the cake tin. * Crack the eggs into a mixing bowl and beat with the sugar, vanilla, nutmeg and salt. Next, whisking slowly and gently, mix in the quark or yogurt. * Pour the batter over the cookie base. Before placing the cake tin into the oven, set it on a pizza tray to prevent dripping in the oven. Bake for 15 minutes at 215 °C (425 °F) and then turn down the oven to 175° C (350 °F). Bake for about one hour, or until set but not browned. (Watch to see if it is browning too quickly. If so, turn down the heat a little.) * Turn off and allow the cake to cool in the oven for an hour. If you take it out while hot, loosely cover the top of the cake tin with aluminium foil or a baking sheet, as the shock of cold air will crack the surface. If cracks appear, don’t panic; they’ll disappear under the cream topping! Refrigerate. Decorate with whipped cream, shaved chocolate, jam, or simply serve plain.

Apple Shortcake This crispy shortcake base topped with cinnamon apples dredged in brown sugar is one dessert cake that is hard to resist – those who try usually fail. Enjoy!

Shortcake Base

110 g (½ cup) sugar 125 g (½ cup) butter, softened 1 teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon of salt 315 g (2 cups) white flour

Apple Topping

3 firm medium apples 6 tablespoons brown sugar 2 teaspoons cinnamon ¼ teaspoon nutmeg Pinch of clove 100 g (⅔ cup packed) raisins or sultanas 2 tablespoons broken walnuts (optional) ӯ 

* Preheat the oven to 190 °C (375 °F). Line the base of 25 cm (10”) springform cake tin with parchment paper and grease the sides with butter * Using an electric mixer, cream the sugar, butter, cinnamon and salt. * Add the flour and beat on a low speed until it resembles fine bread crumbs. * Place the crumb mixture in the pan and flatten well with the flat side of a wide metal spoon. ӯ 

* Peel and core the apples and cut into thin half-moons. * Combine the brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves. Sprinkle half of this mixture over the shortbread base. Scatter the nuts and raisins over the top, being careful not to let them fall in clusters. * Next, carefully arrange the apples in a decorative circular pattern. Press gently to minimize any gaps. Sprinkle with the remaining spice mixture. * Immediately place the apple shortcake in the middle of the oven for 30–35 minutes, or until the apples feel soft when a toothpick is inserted through them. Remove from the oven and carefully remove the band. Allow to cool completely.

Chocolate Rice Krispie Cakes Both Chocolate Rice Krispie and Cornflake cakes are classic fare for children’s birthday parties in Britain. Super quick and easy – no oven required! 100 g (1 cup) milk or plain chocolate 100 g (2 cups) rice krispies 50 g (¼ cup) raisins * Break the chocolate into pieces. Put into a heatproof bowl and set over a pan of boiled water. Cover and stir occasionally until the chocolate melts. * Gently fold the melted chocolate with the rice krispies and raisins. * Divide into 12–18 baking cups. Leave in a cool place to set.

Chocolate Cornflake Cakes 100 g (1 cup) milk or plain chocolate 100 g (2 cups) cornflakes 50 g (¼ cup) raisins * Break the chocolate into pieces. Put into a heatproof bowl and set over a pan of boiled water. Cover and stir occasionally until the chocolate melts. * Gently fold the melted chocolate with the cornflakes and raisins. * Divide into 12–18 baking cups. Leave in a cool place to set.

Greedy, Greedy Apple Cake Why, you may wonder, is this called ”Greedy, greedy apple cake”? The first time it came out of the oven and onto the coffee table, there was something so irresistible about it, that Fugan couldn’t stop eating it. He ate almost a whole cake! Later, he said contritely, “greedy greedy,” and labelled it was. It took several more attempts to catch what the difference was between that and the other apple cakes baked with the same recipe, and in the end, the secret seemed to be in the flour. On that particular day, it had been baked using stone-ground, organic flour from the local mill. But, then again, we aren’t really quite certain... 110 g (½ cup) white sugar 2 medium eggs 240 ml (1 cup) apple juice ½ teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon nutmeg ½ teaspoon salt 125 g (½ cup) butter 315 g (2 cups) stone-ground flour 1 tablespoon of baking powder

For the Apples

2 medium apples 1 teaspoon mixed spice, or cinnamon 1 tablespoon brown sugar

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* Preheat the oven to 190 °C (375 °F). Line the base of a 22 cm (9”) springform cake tin with parchment paper and grease the sides with melted butter. * Peel, core, and cut the apples into small pieces. Coat with the mixed spice or cinnamon, and brown sugar. Set aside. * In a mixing bowl whisk together the sugar, eggs, apple juice, vanilla, nutmeg, and salt. * Melt the butter in a small pan on a low flame, then whisk into the wet ingredients. * In a clean bowl, combine the flour and baking powder. * Cut and fold the flour and baking powder into the wet mixture until just combined, using a large, shallow metal spoon or firm spatula and reaching to the bottom of the mixing bowl. Turn the bowl after each fold so that the ingredients are evenly distributed. Knock out any large lumps. Alternatively, beat for a few seconds with an electric beater on low speed and finish with a few folds of a spatula, reaching to the bottom of the bowl. * Spoon half of the batter into the cake tin and spread evenly. Layer with half the apples, and then cover with the remaining batter. * Decorate with the remaining apples spaced evenly on top. * Bake for about 40 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean when inserted into the centre of the cake and the edges of the cake start to lift from the sides of the cake tin. Take out from oven, remove the band, and gently slide the cake onto a cooling rack.

Best-Yet Rice Pudding Cake At Toshoji, the tenzo was often faced with the dilemma of what to do with the leftover breakfast okayu (rice porridge), besides turning it into leftover soup. Feeling sorry for the okayu wasting away in the fridge, I concocted this cake - using sugar, coffee creamer, mayonnaise (!) and yuzu zest - that soon became a favourite sweet alternative on our free (hosan) days. For anyone passing by the ramshackle kitchen, it was fabulous just smelling the fragrance of the rice pudding cake emanating from the old, cranky combo counter top oven. The baking dish squeaked and spun on a wonky turntable, nervously stopping and starting and stopping again, sometimes helped with a small push of a finger until the cake was finally baked. We would often enjoy it during an afternoon on a free day, sitting on tatami mats in the kitchen hallway between the hot water urns, pots for green tea, and dainty tea bowls. With this recipe it is important to bake long enough to allow excess moisture to evaporate and the cake to become lovely and firm. In the Zen River oven, it takes over one hour but at Toshoji, the cake was ready in 45 minutes. Ovens vary, so keep a careful watch. 350 ml (1½ cups) buttermilk or runny yogurt 110 g (½ cup) white sugar 3 eggs 50 g (¼ cup) raisins ¼ teaspoon nutmeg (or 1 teaspoon cinnamon, which will darken the mixture) 2 teaspoons lemon zest 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons rice flour 1 tablespoon corn starch 750 ml (3 cups) pre-cooked white rice White sugar to sprinkle on top ӯ 

* Preheat oven to 170 °C (340 °F). * In a mixing bowl, whisk the buttermilk or yogurt, sugar, eggs, raisins, nutmeg, lemon zest, vanilla extract and salt. * Whisk in the rice flour and corn starch. * Put the rice in a bowl and cover with water. Fluff the rice and break any lumps with your fingertips. Drain well. * Stir the rice into the yogurt mixture. * Line a 25 cm (10”) cake tin with parchment paper, allowing it to overhang the edges by 4 cm (2”), and grease the sides with a little melted butter. Pour in the mixture. If desired, sprinkle with white sugar. * Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until golden on top and a tooth pick comes out clean when inserted.

Old English Scones 125 g (½ cup) butter, softened 75 g (⅓ cup) white sugar 315 g (2 cups) white flour 1 tablespoon of baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 170 ml (¾ cup) runny yogurt ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 50 g (¼ cup) currants

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* Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Preheat oven to 200 °C (400 °F). * In a mixing bowl, cream the butter and sugar with an electric mixer. * In a clean bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. * Add the flour mixture to the creamed butter and sugar and beat with an electric mixer on low speed until it resembles fine bread crumbs. Cool in the fridge for 30–40 minutes to prevent scones from toppling while baking. * In a small jug, combine the yogurt and vanilla extract with the currants. * Using a blunt knife, cut the yogurt into the crumb mixture until it all comes together in a soft, sticky ball. Don’t over mix. * Turn onto a floured surface and very gently roll out, or pat, into a circle about 3 cm (1¼”) thick. With a 6 cm (3”) cookie cutter, cut into rounds. Place the rounds close together on a baking sheet. Repeat the rolling and cutting with the remaining dough. Bake for 15–18 minutes, or until golden on top. Remove from the oven and immediately slide the scones onto a wire rack to cool.

Chocolate Tee Wafers For some reason, crisp cookies usually disappear faster than chewy ones at Zen River. These cookies sparkle with sesame seeds and are darkened with cocoa. Gakudo, who is known for resisting most things sweet, loves these best for their crunchiness. 125 g (½ cup) butter, softened 110 g (½ cup) sugar 2 large eggs ½ teaspoon vanilla extract ½ teaspoon salt

75 g (½ cup) sesame seeds plus 2 tablespoons sesame seeds reserved for topping 250 g (1½) cups white flour 50 g (½ cup) cocoa powder 2 teaspoons baking powder

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* Preheat oven to 180 °C (360 °F). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. * Cream the butter and sugar, and then beat in one egg at a time. Mix in the vanilla, salt, and sesame seeds. * Combine the flour, cocoa powder, and baking powder and fold into the wet ingredients. The dough may be a bit stiff, but it will bind together when shaped. * On the baking sheet, make two rectangular shapes 1½ cm (½”) deep and 10 cm (4”) wide. Cut into 4 cm (1½”) squares. Dip each square into the reserved sesame seeds. Distribute them evenly across the baking sheet. Bake for about 12–14 minutes, or until their chocolate fragrance fills the kitchen.

Goosnargh Cakes Melt-in-your-mouth cookies – this old recipe is now hard to come by. When I was a child, we could buy them in the village store simply wrapped in parchment paper, each one a generous 1 cm (½”) deep. This version came via a chance meeting with an aquaintance who lived close to Goosnargh village, not far from where I grew up. She asked her neighbour for the recipe. The secret? I’m not sure, but do let them rest overnight. 250 g (1 cup) butter, softened 50 g (⅓ cup) icing sugar (confectioners sugar) ½ teaspoon caraway seeds (optional) 280 g (1¾ cups) white flour ½ teaspoon salt Caster (superfine) sugar for dusting ӯ 

* In a mixing bowl, cream the butter, icing sugar, and caraway seeds with an electric mixer until white and fluffy, about 3 minutes. * Add the flour and salt and beat on low speed until it resembles coarse bread crumbs. * Press the dough together to form a ball and turn onto a floured surface. Roll out 1 cm (½”) thick and cut into 5 cm (2”) rounds. Alternatively, form into rounds and gently press. Dust generously with caster sugar. Place on a parchment lined baking sheet. If possible, cover, leave overnight in a cool place, and bake the next day. * Preheat the oven to 150 °C (300 °F). Bake for 20–25 minutes, without browning them. They are ready when firm to the touch and pale gold underneath

High Energy Granola Bar For the annual Outdoor Retreat, a day of zazen on a deserted sandbank in the middle of the Wadden Sea, these granola bars are a welcome snack. In August, when the weather can be wild and the zazen extreme, a little extra fuel is much appreciated. Makes about 16 bars. 120 ml (½ cup) sunflower oil 60 ml (¼ cup) runny honey 50 g (¼ cup) brown sugar 1 egg 1 teaspoon cinnamon

½ teaspoon salt 35 g (¼ cup) sesame seeds 35 g (¼ cup) sunflower seeds 50 g (¼ cup) raisins 330 g (3 cups) rolled oats

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* Preheat the oven to 180 °C (360 °F). Line a 20 cm (10”) square cake tin with parchment paper, allowing it to overhang the edges by 4 cm (2”). * Beat together the oil, honey, brown sugar, egg, cinnamon, and salt. * Mix in the sesame seeds, sunflower seeds, and raisins. Stir in the oats. Using the back of a spoon, press the mixture into the tin, making it as flat as possible. * Bake for 25–30 minutes, or until the edges turn golden. Brown sugar burns quickly, so watch them carefully. * Remove from the oven and allow to cool. When cool, lift out of the cake tin and cut into bars using a sharp knife.

Apple Crumble “What a treat! Apple crumble for breakfast!!” Yes, yes! 60 g (¼ cup) sugar 125 g (1½ cup) butter, softened 2 teaspoons cinnamon (optional) ½ teaspoon salt 315 g (2 cups) flour, white or whole wheat 10–12 medium apples (1½ kg) ӯ 

* Preheat the oven to 175 °C (350 °F) * In a mixing bowl, cream the sugar, butter, cinnamon, and salt with an electric mixer until creamy, about 2 minutes. * Pour in the flour and beat on low speed until the mixture resembles fine bread crumbs. Set aside. * Peel and slice the apples into thin slices. Press them down as flat as possible in a greased baking dish – a potato masher is a good tool for this. * Drop the crumble mixture evenly over the top, being very careful not to press it. Leave a few peaks here and there. * Bake on a low rack for 35–40 minutes or until the peaks turn golden. * Serve either hot or cold at breakfast time, or as a dessert, alongside vanilla custard or Patience Vla (p. 297).

Victoria Sponge Cake This was another cake we learned to bake at school in domestic science lessons. For that reason, it must be included! It’s delicious and well worth the effort and the calories. An alternative, quicker way to make this, which they didn’t teach us then, is to have the ingredients ready at room temperature, put them all together, and mix on low speed for a mere 20–30 seconds, just enough to bind them. Both methods result in a lovely crumb, so go figure! 250 g (1 cup) butter, softened 250 g (1 cup) sugar 4 medium eggs 1 tablespoon milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, or to taste

315 g (2 cups) white flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt Strawberry jam and whipped cream Icing sugar for dusting

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* Preheat oven to 190 °C (375 °F). Line the bottom of two 22 cm (9”) springform cake tin with parchment paper and grease the sides with butter. * In a mixing bowl, use an electric mixer to beat together the butter and sugar until pale, creamy, and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, and then the milk and vanilla extract. Add a little flour if it starts to curdle. * Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Cut and fold the flour mixture into the wet ingredients using a large metal spoon or firm spatula. Take care not to over mix. Divide the mixture between the two cake tins and level out. * Bake for 20–25 minutes, or until the cakes are well-risen, spring back when pressed gently with a finger, and a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Remove from the oven. Wait 5 minutes and then remove the cake tins. Transfer the cakes onto a wire rack and peel off the paper. When cool, spread one of the cakes with a layer of strawberry jam. * Cut both cakes into equal slices, then spread the bottom cake with a layer of whipped cream. Sandwich the cake slices together. Using a small tea sieve, shower the top of the cake with a delicate layer of powdered sugar.

Rock Cakes Rock cakes, probably named for their knobbly shape and crisp outer layer, were often waiting for us as children after a long day at school. Their main purpose was to satisfy our empty tummies and tide us over until teatime. 125 g (½ cup) butter 85 g (⅓ cup) sugar 250 g (1½ cups) white or whole wheat flour 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 1 large egg ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 50 g (⅓ cup) dried mixed fruit or sultanas ӯ 

* Preheat the oven to 205 °C (400 °F). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. * In a mixing bowl, cream the butter and sugar using an electric beater. * In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. * Add the flour to the creamed butter and sugar and beat with an electric mixer on low speed until it resembles fine bread crumbs. * In a jug, beat the egg with the vanilla extract and stir in the dried fruit. Using a blunt knife, cut the egg into the dry ingredients until just combined. * Using an ice cream scoop or your hands, shape the batter into mounds and space evenly on the baking sheet. Bake for 15–16 minutes, until golden.

Honey & Oatmeal Cookies These are sweet reminders of leisurely mornings spent in American coffee houses pouring out our souls over steaming mugs of cappuccino and oversized oatmeal cookies, the cookie of choice for those of us who love to imagine oatmeal cookies can be healthy! 85 g (⅓ cup) butter 90 g (½ cup) demerara sugar 60 ml (¼ cup) honey ½ teaspoon salt 2 eggs 4 tablespoons raisins or sultanas 165 g (1½ cups) rolled oats 80 g (½ cup) flour 1 teaspoon baking powder

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* Preheat the oven to 180 °C (360 °F). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. * In a mixing bowl, cream together the butter, demerara sugar, honey, and salt with an electric mixer. * Beat in one egg at a time and stir in the raisins. * In a clean bowl, combine the oats, flour, and baking powder. Mix the dry ingredients into the butter and sugar until just combined. * Drop spoonfuls of the batter onto the baking sheet, 4 cm (2”) apart. Bake for 12–15 minutes, or until golden on the edges. If the cookies don’t spread out much, try reducing the oven temperature a little next time.

Trifle Trifle is an English classic that no one at Zen River had ever tried before. When I made it, nothing was left. Say no more. Use Fruit Jelly with a generous amount of stale cake, and for a special occasion, add a liberal dash of sherry. Layer some fresh strawberries under the custard for a more classic version. 6 thick slices of stale cake 100 g (¼ cup) strawberry jam Dash of sherry (optional) 500 ml (4 cups) Fruit Jelly (p. 296), any flavour, homemade or commercial 500 ml (4 cups) vanilla custard or Patience Vla (p. 297) 250 ml (2 cups) whipping cream or mock cream 2 tablespoons chocolate vermicelli or chocolate shavings ӯ 

* Spread each slice of cake with strawberry jam and layer them over the bottom of a glass trifle bowl. Drizzle with sherry if using. * Make the fruit jelly, and immediately pour over the cake, and let it soak in. Cover and put the cake in the fridge to set. * When the fruit jelly has set, cover the cake with an even layer of Patience Vla or custard. Whip the cream and spread it over the top of the trifle. * Chill the trifle in the fridge for one hour before serving. Decorate with chocolate shavings or sprinkles.

Mandarin Trifle Mandarins set in fruit jelly and surrounded by lady fingers with layers of custard and cream – it’s a surprise dessert that looks wonderful.

200 g (1 cup) canned mandarins in syrup, or 8 fresh mandarins 500 ml (4 cups) orange or lemon Fruit Jelly (p. 296) 50 ml (¼ cup) orange juice (optional) 20 sponge fingers (boudoir fingers or lady fingers 500 ml (4 cups) vanilla custard or Patience Vla (p. 297) 250 ml (2 cups) whipping cream or Mock Cream (p. 296) ӯ 

* If using canned mandarins, drain and reserve the syrup. If using fresh mandarins, peel and break into segments. Place in the bottom of a glass trifle bowl. * Soak the lady fingers in the reserved mandarin syrup or the orange juice. * Make the Fruit Jelly according to the directions overleaf, and pour over the mandarins. Chill for 30 minutes. * When the jelly starts to set, slide the sponge fingers in around the edge of the bowl, where they should remain upright. Cover and put the cake in the fridge to set. * When set, pour on the Patience Vla or vanilla custard in an even layer, and then whip the cream and spread or pipe it carefully over the top. Decorate with shaved chocolate or chocolate sprinkles. Chill in the fridge before serving.

Natural Fruit Jelly It is really quite simple to make jelly from agar-agar, a natural vegetable gelatin often found stocked in health food stores. Use any kind of fruit juice. 500 ml (4 cups) fruit juice, any flavour 5 tablespoons agar–agar flakes (or follow package directions) Honey or sugar to sweeten ӯ 

* Place the fruit juice in a pan with the agar-agar flakes. Bring to a boil while stirring and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the flakes are dissolved. Sweeten with honey or sugar to taste. Pour the gelatine over the trifle cakes while still hot. (Jelly is also nice poured into a mould with some fresh fruit.)

Mock Cream One day there wasn’t any fresh whipping cream in the fridge to fill the Victoria Sponge Cake, so we whipped up this little gem, and it worked! The yogurt is light and bright and the cream cheese rich and lush. 100 g (⅓ cup) cream cheese or nonfat quark 100 g (½ cup) sour cream ¼ teaspoon lemon zest (optional) ӯ 

* In a mixing jug, use an electric mixer to whisk the cream cheese or quark, sour cream and lemon zest until firm and fluffy, about 3 minutes.

Patience Vla For years, I attempted, and often failed, to make something that resembled "Vla", a fresh custard in a carton that can be found only in the Netherlands. After many attempts, this recipe comes the closest so far. It’s great with baked apples, over a trifle, or as a dessert on its own. It requires great patience to stir the vla over a low flame until it begins to set. Don’t be tempted to turn up the heat; it can easily burn and quickly turn lumpy. If that should happen, whisk the vla well and then pour it through a sieve. Or, in case of desperation, whizz with an immersion blender. 3 eggs 500 ml (4 cups) milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3 tablespoons corn starch 75 g (⅓ cup) sugar ¼ teaspoon salt

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* Separate the yolks from the egg whites. Reserve the egg whites for another use (e.g. making biscotti or meringues). * Bring the milk to a boil on medium flame, whisking to avoid a skin forming on the top. Stir in the vanilla extract. * In a second pot, whisk together the egg yolks, corn starch, sugar and salt. Ladle a spoonful of the hot milk into the egg mixture and stir well. Place this pot on a low flame. Stir continuously with a flat-ended wooden spoon; then alternate with a whisk. Gradually add the rest of the milk while simultaneously whisking and scraping the bottom of the pan. * Continue to patiently stir and whisk until the custard begins to set and coats the back of a spoon. This should happen just before it reaches boiling point – at around 85–90 °C (176–194 °F). Remove from the heat and pour into a heatproof glass or ceramic bowl (pour through a sieve if the custard is lumpy). Allow to cool, which will set the custard further. * Stir occasionally to prevent a skin from forming; or, cover with a layer of plastic wrap touching the surface.

Lemon Cream Frosting This delightfully fresh frosting is lighter than butter frosting and totally delicious. If it doesn’t thicken after whipping (too much liquid or sugar can cause this), you can easily remedy the problem by adding a little more cream cheese. 100 g (⅓ cup) cream cheese 3 tablespoons icing sugar 1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice ½ teaspoon vanilla extract or to taste Pinch of nutmeg (optional) ½ teaspoon lemon zest (optional)

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* In a tall jug, whisk all the above until firm and fluffy, about 2–3 minutes.

Lemon Glaze 125 g (1 cup) icing sugar 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

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* Sift the sugar into the lemon juice and mix well. Add more sugar or lemon juice as needed. Brush onto scones and cookies, or simply dip them into the wet glaze. Allow the glaze to dry before serving.

Kitchen Essentials

Equipment Essentials Here is an overview of the most essential pieces of equipment used almost every day in the Zen River kitchen: • Nonstick ceramic frying pan • Black iron or heavy stainless steel frying pan • 4 litre saucepan with lid • 4–8 litre cast iron stew pot, • casserole, or Dutch oven (like “Le Creuset” or an enamelled casserole dish, like “Emalia” • 8 litre stock pot with lid • Pressure cooker • Long wooden spoon • Short wooden spoon • Flat slotted wide “fish” spatula, suitable for non-stick pans • Flat slotted “egg” spatula, suitable for non-stick pans • Large slotted or wire spoon • 2 heat-resistant silicone spatulas • Potato masher • Metal whisk • Large chef’s knife • Small paring knife • Knife sharpener • Vegetable peeler • Serrated knife • Microplane grater • Lemon press • Can opener • Garlic press • Salad spinner • Pestle & mortar • Timer • Pair kitchen scissors

• Wooden cutting board • Wooden bread board • Salad & cheese grater • Fine mesh sieve • Colander • Soup ladle • salad tongs • 2 serving spoons • Large mixing bowl • Set of stainless steel bowls, small to big • 2 litre measuring cup with cups & millilitres, or set of measuring cups • 1 litre measuring cup with cups & millilitres • Measuring Spoon Set with 5 ml, 15 ml, 50 ml, and 100 ml • Silicone brush • 2 spring form cake tins, 24 cm (9½") • Loaf tin • Baking sheet (cookie sheet) • Baking pan • 1–2 muffin tins, 12 muffin cups apiece • Wire cooling rack • 6 plastic storage containers with lids • Kitchen weighing scale • Immersion blender or hand mouli • Electric mixer • Rice cooker

A Note on Beans & Lentils There is such a colourful array of beans and lentils on this planet. Prepared well, they create lovely, healthy meals, and are a great source of protein. Here is a rough guide on how to cook and make the most of these brilliant little gems. BEANS Scatter the beans on a tray, one bean deep. Pick through them to take out any grit or small stones, and then rinse them in a sieve to remove any dust. Place the beans in a large bowl and cover them with triple the amount of fresh, cold water. Soak overnight in a cool place, or for at least 8 hours. Once doubled in size, drain, rinse, and put the beans in a large cooking pot. Cover with ample fresh water. Place the uncovered pot over a high flame and bring to a rapid boil for 5 minutes. Skim off any scum that rises to the surface. Lower the flame, cover loosely with a lid to prevent boiling over, and gently simmer until tender. The time will depend on the type, size, and age of the beans. (Older beans or beans soaked and cooked in hard water will take longer.) Add more water as needed, making sure the beans always stay covered. As they near their cooking time, test for done-ness by pressing, or biting, one. They should be tender, without any hardness in the center, but not mushy. (Allow excess water to evaporate towards the end of cooking if you wish to use the bean water in the recipe.) A few handy tips: Note that strongly coloured beans will colour any vegetables added to them, so consider whether or not to drain off the water; salt will slow down the cooking process a little but will help the beans maintain their shape; only add tomatoes or other acidic ingredients after the beans are tender, as the acidity will also slow down the cooking; to help aid digestion, try putting a teaspoon of savory or a 5 cm (2") square of kombu seaweed into the cooking water. Cumin is also known to be beneficial for digesting beans; if soft beans are to go in a salad, shake the pot rather than stirring it to help the beans maintain their shapes, and drain carefully when done. To use the quick soak method, put the sorted and rinsed beans in a pot, cover them with triple the amount of water, and bring to a rapid boil over a high flame for 5 minutes. Then turn off the flame and allow the beans to soak for 1–2 hours. Drain the soak water then cook as usual. Albeit quicker, the beans are more likely to burst open. LENTILS Most lentils don’t require soaking and can be cooked straight away, though they do benefit from being rinsed first. Once sorted and cleaned, throw them directly into boiling water and keep stirring until they return to a boil. (After rinsing and draining, lentils have a tendency to clump together, so drain them just before cooking.) Cover loosely with a lid and simmer 20–40 minutes, depending on the type, size, and age of the lentils. Chana lentils and split peas improve by soaking before cooking. To do this, first rinse and drain them, cover with the correct amount of water according to the recipe, and

soak for 30 minutes. Next, drain the soak water into a cooking pot, bring it to a boil, then stir in the legumes, following the remaining steps in the recipe. Tomatoes added to lentils will soften the hulls, but will also lengthen the cooking time. High altitude cooking may require a couple of extra minutes. PRESSURE COOKING The cooking time of beans and lentils is drastically reduced to about a third by using a pressure cooker. The pressure also ensures the beans are more evenly cooked. Refer to the chart opposite for average pressure cooking times.

Pressure Cooking Times Pressure cooking legumes (pulses), beans, and grains saves a lot of time and energy, and cooks beans better than by the stove top method. Rice also comes out plumper. Pressure cooking times listed below are calculated for beans that have been soaked overnight, or for a minimum of 8 hours. Always follow the advice of the manufacturer because pressure cookers vary. As a rule of thumb, cooking time is reduced to a third or less. The amount of water is also reduced. Generally speaking, the tops of soaked beans need to be covered with about 3 cm (1½") of water when using a pressure cooker. Also, be careful not to fill the pot more than two-thirds full to keep the valve clear from spattering. To cook beans and grains, simply put them with the water into the pressure cooker. Then lock the lid. Place the pot over a high flame. As soon as the pressure is high, turn down to a low flame, and set a timer. In jiggle top pressure cookers, pressure is reached when the weight jiggles about and steam begins to come out from under the valve. In new pressure cookers, it is when the marks on the valve stem appear. If it begins to whistle, the heat source is too high, so turn down the flame immediately. Unless specified differently in the recipe, when the time is up, allow the pressure to drop naturally, which will usually take about 10 minutes. If the pressure has not fully dropped after 10 minutes, end the cooking time by running a thin stream of cold water over the top of the lid. Release the lid. For quick release, place the pressure cooker in the sink with the handle toward you and the steam vent away, and allow a thin stream of cold water to run over the top of the lid until the pressure valve releases. For cooking lentils, heat the water first before adding them. Measure the water, then put into the pressure cooker and bring to a boil without the lid. Then pour in the lentils while stirring to prevent clumping, lock the lid, and follow the steps previously mentioned. This method keeps the lentils from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Pay close attention to the cooking time because they are easy to overcook. All times are approximate and will vary depending on the amount in the pressure cooker and the amount of pressure used. This chart shows approximate pressure cooking times to be followed when using the natural release method (about 10 minutes), unless specified otherwise. The cooking times are followed by the ratio of grain, legumes, or beans to the amount of water; for example, 1: 2½ = 1 part lentils to 2½ parts water.

APPROXIMATE COOKING TIME FROM PRESSURE, FOLLOWED BY NATURAL RELEASE TIME (ABOUT 10 MINUTES) UNLESS SPECIFIED.

GRAIN OR BEAN: WATER

RICE & GRAINS Brown rice, long grain

15 minutes

1: 1½

Brown rice, short grain

20 minutes

1: 1½

Millet

1 minute

1: 1½

Quinoa & long grain brown rice mix

10 minutes

1: 1½

Quinoa

1 minute

1: 1½

White rice

Up to high pressure, turn off, quick release

1: 1⅓

White rice for sushi

Up to high pressure, turn off, quick release

1: 1¼

Chana lentils

8-10 minutes, quick release

1: 2½

Mung lentils

5 minutes, quick release

1: 2½

Red lentils

5–6 minutes, quick release

1: 2½

Urad lentils

3 minutes

1: 2½

LENTILS, RAW

BEANS, SOAKED FOR 8 HOURS AND COVERED WITH 3 CM WATER Azuki beans

6–8 minutes

1: 1¼

Black beans

6–8 minutes

1: 1¼

Black-eyed or navy beans

5–7 minutes

1: 1¼

Butter or broad beans

25–30 minutes

1: 1¼

Chickpeas

15–18 minutes

1: 1¼

Mung beans

raw, unsoaked, 6–8 minutes

1: 3

Pinto beans

8–10 minutes

1: 1¼

Red kidney beans

8–10 minutes

1: 1¼

Black rice gruel (congee)

30–35 minutes

1: 5

Brown rice gruel

30–35 minutes

1: 5

Millet gruel (congee)

5 minutes

1: 6

White rice gruel (okayu)

Up to high pressure, slow release 1: 6

GRAINS FOR GRUEL

Substitutions Baking powder, 1 teaspoon

• Mix ¼ teaspoon baking soda with ½ teaspoon cream of tartar and ¼ teaspoon corn starch; or ¼ teaspoon baking soda with 125 ml (½ cup) buttermilk (adjust the liquid in the recipe)

Cardamom pods

• Ground cardamom

1 Egg

• 1 tablespoon ground flax or 2 teaspoons chia seeds soaked for 20 minutes in 3 tablespoons warm water; or 4 tablespoons silken tofu, pureed; or 3 tablespoons mayonnaise; or ½ banana mashed with ½ teaspoon baking powder; or 3 tablespoons aquafaba.

Fresh herbs, 3 teaspoons

• 1 teaspoon dried herbs

Gluten-free cake flour

• Buckwheat flour; or combine 750 ml (3 cups) brown rice flour, 250 ml potato starch (1 cup), 6 tablespoons tapioca flour, with 1½ teaspoons guar gum

Kaffir lime leaves

• Lime zest

Lemon grass

• Strips of lemon or lime zest combined with some fresh minced ginger

Lemon juice

• Balsamic vinegar (not in cakes though!)

Milk or cream

• Almond milk, unsweetened; or almond cream; or soy milk, unsweetened; or soy cream; or quinoa milk; or any variety nut milk

Mirin

• ½ teaspoon sugar with 2 tablespoons white wine; or dry sherry; or rice vinegar

Palm sugar or jaggery

• Brown sugar; or coconut sugar; or Stevia

Quark

• Greek nonfat yogurt

Rice vinegar

• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar plus half a teaspoon sugar

Ricotta cheese

• Cottage cheese, pureed

Saffron

• ⅛ teaspoon turmeric

Sake

• Dry sherry; or white grape juice

Seaweed

• Omit

Smoked paprika powder

• Paprika powder

Soy Mince

• T.V.P. (Textured Vegetable Protein)

Tofu and tempeh

• Chickpeas (because they keep their shapes) or whole nuts such as cashews and almonds; or seeds, mushrooms and Quorn (mycoprotiens made from fungus fusarium venenatum)

Worcestershire sauce

• Soy sauce

Yogurt

• Soy or almond yogurt; or milk mixed with a little sour cream; or coconut milk; or mashed banana (a good substitute in cakes)

Basic Knife Cuts DESCRIPTION

METRIC

INCHES

Minced

Very fine pieces

Very fine pieces

Chopped

Small, bite-sized pieces

Small, bite-sized pieces

Matchstick

3 mm ×3 mm ×3–5 cm

⅛” ×⅛”×1-2”

Small-dice

6 mm

¼”

Medium-dice

1¼ cm

½”

Large-dice

2 cm

¾”

Thin slice

2–3 mm

⅛”

Medium slice

5–6 mm

¼”

Thick slice

1–1¼ cm

½”

Vegetable & Fruit Exchanges 1 medium apple or pear

150 g

5 ounces

1 medium aubergine

300 g

10 ounces

1 small head brocolli

225 g

8 ounces

1 medium carrot

100 g

3½ ounces

1 small head cauliflower

750 g

1½ pounds

1 medium courgette

250 g

8 ounces

1 medium onion

150 g

5 ounces

1 medium potato

150 g

5 ounces

Dry Measures Exchanges METRIC

US OUNCE

5 grams

0.2 ounce

28 g

1 ounce

57 g

2 ounces

85 g

3 ounces

125 g

4 ounces

140 g

5 ounces

170 g

6 ounces

200 g

7 ounces

250 g

8 ounces

500 g

16 ounces (1 pound)

1 kg

32 ounces (2 pounds)

Liquid Measure Exchanges ¼ cup

4 tablespoons

60 ml

⅓ cup

5⅓ tablespoons

75 ml

½ cup

8 tablespoons

125 ml

⅔ cup

10⅓ tablespoons

150 ml

¾ cup

12 tablespoons

175 ml

1 cup

16 tablespoons

240 ml–250 ml

1½ cups

350 ml–370 ml

2¼ cups

530 ml–550 ml

4 cups

950 ml–1 litre

Small Measurement Exchanges A smidgen A pinch A dash

⅟32 teaspoon ⅟16 teaspoon

⅛ teaspoon

⅛ teaspoon

0.6 ml

¼ teaspoon

1.25 ml

½ teaspoon

2.5 ml

1 teaspoon

5 ml

2 teaspoons

10 ml

1 tablespoon

15 ml

4 tablespoons

60 ml or ¼ cup

Temperature Conversions Fahrenheit

Celsius

175 °

80 °

200 °

95 °

225 °

110 °

250 °

120 °

275 °

140 °

300 °

150 °

325 °

160 °

350 °

175 °

375 °

190 °

400 °

205 °

425 °

220 °

450 °

230 °

475 °

240 °

500 °

260 °

Homemade, Nontoxic Surface Cleaner Jifu thought it might be fun to include the natural surface cleaner we make, which is based on an old-fashioned recipe I had tucked away in the back of my mind. After testing it for a few weeks, we finally agreed it does a great job, especially on lightly soiled surfaces. It definitely keeps the stove and kitchen counters clean, fresh and sparkling. Besides a pleasing fragrance, both the peppermint and tea tree oils have disinfecting qualities. If you notice a white residue, then simply reduce the amount of soda by one teaspoon. Makes one litre of product. 2–3 teaspoons soda crystals (sodium carbonate) 500 ml (2 cups) warm water

500 ml (2 cups) plain white vinegar 3–4 drops peppermint essential oil 3–4 drops tea tree essential oil

ӯ 

* In a large jug, dissolve the soda with the warm water. * Slowly add the vinegar, stirring gently to release any gas. Allow the mixture to rest, uncovered, for 2 hours. * Pour into spray bottles, and then drip in the essential oils. Be careful not to shake the bottles! * If the bottles begin to expand or the cleaner spurts through the nozzle, loosen the cap for a few more hours to allow excess gas to escape.

Zen Vegetarian Cooking Many of the recipes in this book are loosely based on Shojin-style cooking, more commonly referred to as Zen vegetarian cooking. And although Shojin makes use of a variety of Zen principles, it is also based on everyday common sense and no-nonsense logic, even to the point where I’ve caught myself saying, “Aha! I always thought so! Why didn’t I notice that before?”

The Six Tastes, Five Colours & Five Methods Shojin-style cooking is based on the Buddhist precepts, especially doing no harm, but it is also characterized by simplicity and freshness. It was transmitted along with Buddhism from China to Japan, and now to the West. In brief, some key principles of Shojin style cooking are the six tastes – sweet, sour, salty, spicy, bitter, and delicate; the five colours – blacks (including purple), yellows, whites, reds, and greens; and the five cooking methods – frying, boiling, grilling or baking, steaming, and simply raw. Wisely using the six tastes will carefully balance the flavours of a meal. For instance, the perfect balance of sugar with vinegar, lemon, or tomato will create a wonderful sweet and sour dish. The tartness of a salad dressing can be honed with honey or brightened with balsamic vinegar. And, a languishing curry dish can be tied together with a smattering of lemon juice and a spoonful of jaggery or brown sugar. The skilful use of salt and soy sauce can make a baked dish rich and savoury, or a mushroom soup deep and flavourful. Assorted curry powders and spices can bring the mundane lentil alive. Ground chills and peppercorns add pizzazz to a hot-sour bouillon, and a little fresh ginger or dill can paint a beautiful highlight on a simple carrot soup. Bitterness added in tiny proportions will accent the inherent sweetness of any dish. A pinch of lemon zest, a few bay leaves or lime leaves, a sprinkle of dill, or a touch of clove or paprika powder will do wonders to a bland, flat sauce. Delicate flavours are drawn out in broccoli and cauliflower when lightly steamed or boiled to perfection with a little sea salt, or in soups made with a clear broth. Subtlety is discovered in freshly cooked carrots tossed in olive oil and parsley, or in bulgur mixed with beans, corn, and a hint of chili. When you think back to a wonderful meal, you realize that food doesn’t taste good just because of the flavours, but because it looks good too. The colours and shapes tell a story. So in Shojin-style cooking, emphasis is placed not only on the types of vegetables but also on their colour and how they are cut. For instance, carrots are readily available and inexpensive, so they may appear

often during the course of the week. If they’re cut into five different shapes, depending on the meal, one may hardly notice their frequent appearance. Carrots can be cut into matchsticks for sesame noodles, circles for a curry, diced for chilli, triangles for a couscous or oven dish, diagonal slices for a Chinese dish, and half-moons for a soup. Onions can be minced, diced, slivered, or wedged. Red bell peppers may be cut into tiny squares, large triangles, thin slivers, or “birdies”. (Cut a bell pepper into quarters lengthwise, with the ribs in the middle, and slice crosswise. The results looks like small birds flying high in the sky.) Besides playing with shapes, creatively using the five colours can add beauty and vibrancy to any meal. The purple coat of aubergine can be contrasted with the green skin and white body of courgette. The black belly of a mushroom deepens next to the red top of a bell pepper, and the bright orange hue of pumpkin glows when seen alongside a purple onion. The vivid greenness of broccoli can be accented by black seaweed, white tofu, or bright yellow corn. While selecting and chopping your vegetables using an artists eye, you can also think about which of the five methods you will be using to cook them. Will they be stir-fried through rice, boiled into mashed potatoes, grilled for cheese on toast, baked in the oven as tamale pie or ratatouille, steamed for a light, piquant teriyaki, or simply served raw in a chicory and apple salad? The final appearance of the meal will be very different depending on the shapes, colours, and cooking methods you use. The colours of the ingredients and techniques used to cook can also be chosen to reflect both the season and the weather. Choose fresh, bright salad greens with their refreshingly cool tastes and crunchy textures on a hot summer’s day, and stir-fry a vibrant mix of vegetables to warm the palette and sooth the soul on a cool autumn’s day. Bake root vegetables and oven dishes when winter is freezing and frost covers the ground, warming and fuelling cold bodies from the inside. And when Lady Spring rambles the garden paths, take up lightly cooked, pale delicate shoots to cleanse the spirit and impart a sense of a promise of new things to come. I also enjoy grouping fruit and vegetables into families. Did they grow on the same continent? In a similar country? In the same kind of climate? In a similar season? What goes together well is often quite logical. Autumn pears sing with small red grapes, but wince at being tossed with a bowlful of watermelon chunks. Apples sit merrily amidst berries, but clash with citrusy oranges. Bananas are sunny and cheerful alongside mangos, but squeal when placed next to grapefruit wedges. Put the very same grapefruit with orange segments, and their harmony will sparkle a sleepy palette to life.

The Three Virtues Traditional Zen cuisine employs several other key elements called “Virtues” that are recorded in the “Rules of Purity for Chan (Zen) Monasteries” After his training in a Chinese monastery Dogen Zenji transmitted these Virtues to Japan and they are recommendable for any aspiring cook. The first of these virtues is light and soft; the second, clean and fresh; and the third, precision and care. They may sound very lofty and grand, but they’re really just very practical elements in maintaining a good kitchen

Light & Soft The first virtue, light and soft, refers to how the ingredients are prepared and how we hold the mind while preparing them. The kindness we show to a potato or grain of rice is carried into the energy of the meal. (Dogen Zenji vividly exhorts us to “treat things as if they were our own eyeballs.”) With practice, we can cultivate both an appreciation for the ingredients and their origins. A farmer cultivates the soil, grows wheat, harvests it and brings it to the silo; The miller grinds the wheat into flour, logistics package and bring the it to the store, and finally it arrives in our kitchens, ready to be kneaded and baked into bread. The humble carrot can be appreciated for its beautiful colour, crunchy texture, and bitter-sweet taste. A single grain of rice, however small and insignificant, when multiplied by thousands makes a full bowl of rice. (Even that solitary piece of pasta falling out of the colander was the result of many labours!) Every grain, bean, fruit and vegetable is appreciated for both its intrinsic qualities and the “seventy-two labours” that brought them to the kitchen.

Clean & Fresh The second virtue, clean and fresh, can be found in the kitchen itself (hopefully!), which is a wonderful place to work in when everything is, literally, clean, fresh, and orderly. One can cultivate cheerfulness by simply cleaning the counters and making them shine. A foggy mind can be cleared by sweeping and mopping the floor tiles to let their luminosity radiate. An otherwise hectic day can be settled by washing the dishes and scrubbing the pots and pans. If the kitchen we find ourselves in isn’t exactly convenient or to our personal taste, as can happen when “Tenzoing” in rented spaces for retreats, no matter. Even if we have to cook for forty on a tiny, four burner stove or prepare food for three hundred in a restaurant kitchen equipped for cooking individual portions (as I’ve had to do!), by cleaning and touching each surface we can become intimately connected and content with the space at hand.

Precision & Care The third virtue, precision and care, involves paying attention, and when brought together, precision and care evoke dignity in every activity. In the kitchen, one way this virtue is brought to life, is through taking care of and appreciating each piece of well-used equipment. Every wooden spoon and metal cooking pot contains a hidden story. One old pot came to us as part of the inventory when we first bought the property for Zen River in 2002. It was just a dirty, old, messed up enamel casserole pan that had been gathering dust in the attic. Then one day we hauled it down to the kitchen, gave it a thorough scrub, and put it on the stove. It became our favourite pot for over ten years until the enamel layers just about wore off. We finally retired it when a kind member donated a new one. On another occasion, an old spatula was donated to the kitchen by one of the members when he moved house. He told us it was his grandma’s favourite, and that she had given it to him before she passed away. I remember him and his grandma each time it gets used. The third virtue also refers to using care and precision while preparing food. To cook foods properly, they often need exactly the right amount of time – one minute might be too short and three too long. It doesn’t take a genius to notice that a moment of distraction can become the moment when something burns, spills over, or becomes overcooked and mushy. Stay focused! Even something as seemingly simple as cutting an onion can reflect the state of one’s mind. Are the angles straight and the sizes regular, or has the poor onion been hacked up willy-nilly? Focus can also include the sense of hearing. Just listening to the sounds of the kitchen can give a lot of information. The sound of a knife on a cutting board can show if someone is paying attention or not. If the sound is unequal, the vegetable in question may be getting chopped into uneven pieces, whereas the even sound of knives being handled deftly shows attentiveness and care. When the sizzle in a pan stops sizzling, starts spitting and then becomes suspiciously quiet, something is about to burn. It pays to practice listening with our eyes and seeing with our ears.

The Three Minds In “Instructions for the Tenzo” Dogen Zenji also talks more specifically about using cooking as a form of meditation by paying attention to how we hold our minds. The “Three Minds” to practice while cooking are the mind of joy, the mind of motherliness or parental caring, and the mind of vastness. These minds are cultivated naturally when we engage fully with what we’re doing, especially when we’re doing it for others. So our kitchens are a perfect training ground!

Joyful Mind “Joyful mind is the spirit of happiness,” writes Dogen. And so, with a mind full of happiness, free and unfettered, just seeing the colourful fresh fruit and vegetables sitting on the counter top waiting to be prepared can inspire joyful anticipation and enthusiasm for cooking. It is interesting that we often take food for granted – probably because of the well-stocked supermarkets in our neighbourhoods. We forget that food allows us to survive as human beings. We also forget that to be born a human being is already a very precious and miraculous occurrence. Simply for these reasons alone, because our lives and the lives of everyone and everything depend on it, we can remind ourselves that it is a very great honour and joyful task to cook for and serve others.

Parental Mind Dogen states further, “When [the cook] watches over water and watches over grain, in every case he should sustain the caring and warmth of child rearing.” This is parental mind, and coming from this mind of caring we can enthusiastically nourish our families, our sanghas, and our communities. Cooking for everyone is then filled with the anticipation of creating happiness and joy, as if every day we are cooking for a party. It’s also knowing that even though we can’t please everyone, we can please a few. If we embrace this mind, it becomes natural that we would always want to create something in the best way possible with whatever ingredients we have at hand – from a perfect porridge, a slice of golden toast, a few bananas folded through yoghurt, or a simple frozen-spinach soup. Says Master Dogen, ”Without worrying about their quality, simply make the best of what you have.” By keeping a keen eye on the presentation of shapes and colours, the mind of delicacy and subtlety can be revealed even on a frugal dinner plate!!

Vast Mind “The mind is like a great mountain or a great sea,” writes Dogen. This is the mind of vastness or “great spirit”, where all things are one, yet each thing retains its unique character. With this mind, every precious ingredient can be appreciated for its intrinsic qualities – from an individual grain of salt to a pot full of curried lentils. Food is a wonderful vehicle for bringing the many into one simple dish. Consider apple chutney – it combines fruit, raisins, and sugar, balanced by vinegar, bitter spices of clove and cardamom, and fresh fragrant ginger. The delicacy of each ingredient is revealed in the way all of the wonderful flavours merge together and make a complex whole. Even the vast nature of vegetables past their prime can be appreciated for their contribution to the compost, thereby feeding the insects and replenishing the soil for the next generation of plants. Even in a crowded kitchen we can practice vast mind as we work without getting in each other’s way. And finally, vast mind envelops the people who will be eating the meal. Who prefers hot and spicy? Who prefers mild and creamy? Some people love the taste of coriander (cilantro) while others can’t bear it. Everyone and everything is included in this spacious, vast mind.

Notes for the Tenzo “Tenzo”, the title of the head cook at a Buddhist monastery, literally means “Heavenly Monk.” Usually the tenzo position is held by a senior Zen practitioner. Since ancient times, the job has been known to be demanding and gruelling, partly because the food collected during takuhatsu (begging) may not have been so fresh. From these veritable offerings, it was the job of the tenzo to create a sustainable meal to serve all the monks. In these modern times, the tenzo is as busy as ever, working long hours and overseeing the meals for the community. The tenzo must work with whatever fruit and vegetables come in from the garden and then decide what needs to be bought, all the while making choices that also balance the books. As the shopping budget for retreats might be quite small, many of these recipes were designed to keep costs low. Beans and lentils are wonderful in this regard, a little of which can go a long way to keep tummies satisfied. Many varieties of dried beans and lentils can usually be found stocked in larger supermarkets and in bulk at both health food stores and “world” markets. If not, opt for cans of plain cooked beans, which are often available at low prices. In winter when salad greens are in short supply, serve grated salads using carrots, celery, beets and apples. Use root vegetables as the main dish and cheer them up with whatever greens are available. Sometimes even just a few bright green, lightly cooked broccoli florets or snow peas scattered on top can change the whole appearance of a meal! Because the flavour of many of the recipes in this cookbook lies hidden in the sauces, it’s often possible to adapt them simply by using different combinations with whatever is in the vegetable rack. This reminds me of a well-known proverb: “Poverty is the mother of invention.” Other ways to help reduce costs and eat healthily are to avoid fast food (obviously!), make limited use of luxury ingredients, skip ready-made sauces, buy local and inseason produce and, if possible, cultivate one’s own vegetable plot and fruit trees. Rocket (“arugula” in the US, “rucola” in Holland) grows profusely in our vegetable patch and is wonderful in both salads and soups. When walnuts fall in abundance from the trees in the back garden, they find their way into all kinds of dishes, from dressings and salads to pastas and breads. After a good harvest from our orchard, apples can be prepared in as many ways as one can imagine: poached, baked, pureed, steamed or grated, or turned in chutneys, smoothies and compotes. For fun and variety, now and then we include one or two exotic ingredients (I sometimes choose burdock or lotus root) and fill them out with copious amounts of carrots, pumpkin, cauliflower and potatoes. Remember too that sometimes it’s worth spending a little extra on organic produce to help those who farm and in turn, the environment. When cooking for a large crowd, it is useful to note that the more people there

are to feed, the less food they will eat. What would suffice for four persons might feed six or seven. As the group grows, stronger spices in the recipes may need to be reduced a little too. There is also a big difference between meals served formally in the zendo and informally in the dining room. When served formally (oryoki style), expect a group to eat one-third less than during an informal meal and in the summer, appetites are often a quarter of what they were in the winter. Keep a day-to-day list of participants to know how many will be present for each meal. Make note of those with medical allergies, and don’t forget those who might feel unwell and may not wish to eat at all. Shopping lists are always a headache, and shopping for a retreat is a huge undertaking, but there are some keys to making it more streamlined. Nonperishables such as canned and dried goods, rice, pasta, beans, peanut butter and jams can be bought a few days ahead. Perishables are trickier because they need to stay fresh. (Buying lettuce that will need to keep seven days in the fridge is not very practical.) On Monday, we buy the perishables needed for Tuesday and Wednesday, and on Wednesday, we buy for Thursday and Friday, etc. etc. When everything for the upcoming two days is in stock, the work periods can begin seamlessly. During sesshin, (silent retreat) much of the days prep is accomplished in the one hour after breakfast by a small group of sesshin participants (I usually count one helper for every six participants). Before the prep crew arrives, all the produce for the next three meals is put out on the kitchen counter by the Tenzo staff. The total weight or volume of products for each dish is loosely calculated. When divided by the number of persons eating, the vegetable dish should add up to 250–300 grams (1½ cups) per person. When eating oryoki meals, a group of ten will need roughly 2½ kg (5 pounds) of combined tofu and vegetables. On the other hand, when a group of ten is eating informally they will need 3 kg (6 pounds). Three litres of soup might yield ten everyday servings, whereas for formal oryoki, two-and-a-half litres would suffice. Also take into account the weather, the activities, and the people, some of whom need to eat a lot to stay functioning and others who eat barely need to eat anything. You may notice that as sesshin continues and people settle in, they often gradually eat more as the week goes by. The Tenzo’s role includes more than just figuring out how much to serve. They also coordinate the food preparation, oversee the kitchen, and as meal time approaches, cook the meal. Employing the spirit of vast mind and panoramic awareness, the Tenzo needs to stay sensible to the abilities of those who are assisting, bearing in mind that even the slowest chopper is working from the intention of wanting to help. A good tenzo will prioritize the work to be done and assign jobs according to the skills of the individuals. By paying attention to how things are being cut, they will consciously decide if an intervention is necessary, or not. If the tenzo stays present, engaged and busy, the helpers will stay present and engaged too – and be less likely to slink off for unannounced coffee breaks!

When cooking in larger quantities, prioritizing the prep is of utmost importance. So try to visualise what needs to be done first. Usually a sauce begins with frying vegetables, so make sure whatever ingredients are needed for that are taken care of at the beginning, whereas broccoli, which is steamed just before serving, can be cut later. Carrots and potatoes take time to wash, peel and cut, so put them high on the to-do list, and for salad to be served fresh, wash and dry the greens later. Ensure that someone is assigned to start clearing the decks and washing up a good half hour before the work period ends, and that someone else has five or ten minutes to clean the counters and sweep the floor. With careful planning everyone finishes their tasks on time and leaves behind a clean, orderly kitchen! To have a meal served promptly for a group, which is sometimes vital, consider having it ready to go ten minutes before the allocated meal time. Imagine how long each part of the meal will take to prepare and count back to when things will need to be turned on, cooked, heated up and served. For example, white rice takes about 20–25 minutes to cook in a rice cooker. Then the rice should rest for 5–10 minutes, and it takes a further 5–10 minutes to transfer it into serving bowls. For brown rice to be done by 1 o’clock, the rice cooker would need to be switched on at 12 o’clock. Good planning helps to keep the kitchen a stress-free zone. Also helping to ward off stress is the support of the Assistant Tenzo. This is an important position in the Zen monastery and is usually given to a senior student. They can do much to lighten the load of the Tenzo. The assistant needs to maintain a presence of mind, help prepare and serve food, and be sure to keep the kitchen clean and tidy, especially when it gets busy. They can check that tables are set and trolleys are ready on time; put out plates, knives and forks as needed; prepare condiments; mix salad dressings; select serving bowls and utensils and offers suggestions when asked (without necessarily giving an opinion!) Besides accomplishing these practical tasks, the Assistant also has the perfect opportunity to learn how to manage a kitchen, how to cook, and, most importantly, how to demonstrate the prep to the help crew so they can do their task precisely. One challenging aspect of being Tenzo is learning how to convey what to do and how to do it without much explanation, especially during sesshin when everything is done silently. It’s an interesting technique to learn and practice, for both Tenzos and Assistants.

Oryoki For those unfamiliar with oryoki, it can look daunting! Knowing how to use an oryoki set for meals in the zendo is a carefully choreographed event. But rest assured, once the movements are memorized and practised, it becomes a very fluid, appreciative and attentive way of eating. An oryoki set consists of three to five nested bowls – the first and largest bowl being called the Buddha bowl. The nested bowls sit inside the Buddha bowl together with a spoon, a set of chopsticks and a cleaning utensil carefully wrapped in a cloth. A monks oryoki set contains five bowls, and a lay persons set three. (For practical reasons everyone at Zen River just uses three bowls.) The word oryoki (応量器,”Just enough”) literally means “just enough” and refers to the way the bowls hold just enough food (although second servings are offered just in case!) During retreats, oryoki meals are an efficient way to serve many people, with the added bonus there are fewer dishes to wash, because each participant cleans his or her own oryoki bowls on the spot with hot water served at the end of the meal!

Photo: Shundō Suyama

Over time, our oryoki meals have slowly evolved to suit western-style cooking. In Japan, a typical oryoki breakfast in the training monasteries is a simple gruel of rice (okayu) served with salty ume plums, gomasio and nori seaweed; at Zen River we serve gruel from oats, millet, quinoa, semolina, and brown or black rice, to name but a few, and sweeten it with honey. In the Buddha bowl, we often serve bread and cheese or baked potatoes instead of gruel, and in the second bowl, fruit salad, yogurt or eggs. Tea is then served in the third bowl. At lunchtime, the Buddha bowl holds any one of the above mentioned grains, with vegetables and tofu, beans, or lentils (for protein) served in the second bowl, and salad in the third. For oryoki supper, we replace the traditional soup, rice and vegetables with soup and bread and cheese sandwiches! Traditionally, the evening meal is considered medicine rather than food (the Buddha bowl is not used). This tradition may date back to when Buddhism moved from hotter climates, where the last meal of the day was served before noon, to colder climates, where an evening meal was a necessity to keep healthy and warm. No surprise then that as the tradition has taken root in the West, menus have clearly made a transition from the everyday temple food prepared in Japan, which revolves around rice, soup, cooked vegetables, a vinegared salad and pickle, to the eclectic meals we serve today, as are represented in this cookbook.

My Journey from There to Here I met my teacher, Genpo Merzel Roshi, in Chipping, England, in 1988. I had heard a lot about him from my mother, Genshin, who was his student. At the time, I had no real interest in Zen and was certainly not interested in sitting a seven-day sesshin. I was under the naive, misinformed opinion that if you sat and meditated, you might become a space cadet, or even worse, a zombie. Our family lost a daughter to a road accident in 1980. She was fifteen years old, just three years younger than I. My mother was distraught and began looking for ways to deal with the loss. After a lot of searching, she met Genpo Roshi in London and began going to retreats led by him in England. She also attended a sesshin in Los Angeles, USA, led by Maezumi Roshi, Genpo Roshi’s teacher. It was 1983. For the next five years she tried cajoling, encouraging, and even twisting my arm to try out a sesshin. I steadfastly refused. My brother, on the other hand, gave in to her second attempt to get him to join. But Zen was not for him. He said there were other things he wanted to do with his life than face a wall for seven days! In 1988, our family bought a large farmhouse in Chipping, England. It was going to be the new family home, but my mother soon had other plans. She convinced my somewhat unwilling but ever the handyman father, to convert the barn into a zendo, the garage into showers and toilets, and the bedrooms into dormitories. She invited Roshi to lead sesshin there. He accepted the invitation, and forty people signed up for the first retreat. I was devastated to see my bedroom suddenly turned into a dormitory with four beds. The pretty curtains were taken down because they were deemed “too decorative”, and the bathroom was out of bounds having been reserved for a special guest. What was happening? I was twenty-six years old. Having just made the decision to move to the south of England, I had bought my first car (a small Fiat Panda) packed all my stuff, quit my job, said goodbye to my friends and thought that’s that. A week later, Roshi would be coming. “If it’s the last thing you do for me before you leave, please come to sesshin, even if it’s just for one day,” pleaded my mother. With great grumpiness I acquiesced and reluctantly agreed to join for one day. Just one day. Only. Upon his arrival, Roshi strolled casually into the living room, patted me on the shoulder, and said cheerfully, “Hi, you must be Genshin’s daughter!” After everything I had heard and imagined, he looked surprisingly normal in blue jeans, a denim shirt, and a big buckled belt. He even sounded normal, in spite of the American accent. Sesshin began and I was terrified. Our house was filled to the brim with strangers. The barn was no longer a barn but a big meditation hall with an ever-growing threshold that I was having a hard time stepping over. It was the last place on earth I wanted to be, but there was an

agreement hovering over my head, and I was stuck for the day. A kind person gave me a gentle shove, and I was in. There was a safe-looking spot tucked under the staircase leading to the second storey in the barn and I sat there nervously, waiting for sesshin to begin. Facing the wall, I could only hear the sounds of comings and goings, and because this was my first time, it was impossible to follow what was going on in the room behind me. Footsteps. A rustle of fabric. Then a loud crack shattered the silence! I almost jumped off my cushion. What was that? Are they beating people? No one had mentioned anything about beatings! As soon as the period of sitting was over, I ran for cover to the garden shed and nervously rolled a cigarette. It was there that I bumped into Giko-san, a Japanese Rinzai monk who had travelled with Roshi from the USA. (Twentyfive years later he would visit us at Zen River.) I asked him what the noise was. He smiled and said, “It’s only the kyosaku, the “waking up stick”, and you have to ask for it. Please, don’t worry!” Genpo gave a workshop that first morning and the theme was surrender. It was unusual, so the word stuck with me. It became my lifeline for the next few days. An older American lady was sharing my room. She asked how long I was staying, and I replied that I was there only for the day. She look surprised and said very gently, “Stay one more day, just try. Just one more. You can do it. It will be fine.” For some reason I gave in and stayed. One day became two, then three... In spite of my misgivings I continued to sit under the safety of the staircase, breathing in and out like a baby, following my breath, imagining what dropping off body and mind could feel like, what Mu might be like, this “Mu” everyone kept talking about. I tried to practice the instructions to simply let go of thoughts neither judging them, holding on to them nor pushing them away. I tried to feel what effortless effort was like and practice letting my mind drop into the palm of my hand. It was exhausting! During kinhin, walking meditation, I locked myself in the toilet, collapsed onto the toilet lid, head in hands and breathed out with a deep sigh. What had I gotten myself into? After three days of feeling like a cornered rat whose only medicine was surrender, something in me suddenly gave way and I felt at home. What I had been secretly searching for was right here, in the last place I ever expected to find it. Now there was no way I could go back to my old life. It was too late. As the week came to a close, I heard a group of people were travelling to Holland, Germany, and Poland, to join more sesshins. I thought, “Nothing is stopping me, so why not go too? My bag is already packed!” I stepped onto the plane in Manchester, and my life and the lives of those close to me were never the same again. To them I extend my deepest gratitude and hope they will understand.

Zen River Temple Zen River Temple (established in 2002) is an international Buddhist monastery that offers a year-round training programme under the guidance of Anton Tenkei Coppens Roshi, Abbot, and Tamara Myoho Gabrysch Roshi. As “dharma heirs” of Genpo Merzel Roshi, they are representatives of the White Plum Lineage that was established by the late Taizan Maezumi Roshi in the USA. They are both certified by the Japanese Soto School and maintain a close connection with Junyu Kuroda Roshi, brother of Maezumi Roshi and Abbot of Kirigayaji in Tokyo. Zen River is officially registered in Japan as a Soto training temple (Tokubetsu Jiin) and plays an active role in the development of the European Department of the Soto School. Zen River is located on a beautiful property on the outskirts of Uithuizen, a small village at the northern edge of Holland close to the Waddensea. It enjoys the spaciousness and tranquillity of the countryside, and yet is easily accessible by public transportation. The programme is based on four elements of training (zazen, ritual, study, and bodhisattva activity) and consists of a daily schedule as well as a calendar of retreats and related events. Zen River functions as an “open” monastery. This means that everybody is welcome to participate in all or part of the programme, while the continuity of training is ensured by a small group of fulltime monastic and lay residents. Many sangha members come on a regular basis in order to support and deepen their practices. English and Dutch are the common languages spoken at Zen River Temple and most classes are taught in English. Tenkei Roshi has given shiho (dharma transmission) to eight of his senior students: Senseis Gakudo den Hollander, Koren Kasman (1956–2016), Senko de Boer, Jifu Vulink, Doin van de Roer, Ryushin Lopez Doriga, Daishin Fischer, and Ranka de Hullu. For more detailed information and interesting snippets, please visit our website: www.zenrivertemple.org

Acknowledgements In gratitude and appreciation to all those who made this cookbook possible: To my husband, Anton Tenkei, for his invaluable support, faith, patience, and loving kindness, and for showing me “the ropes” to Zen cooking. To my family for their endless encouragement and enthusiasm. To my teacher, Genpo Roshi, for giving me the opportunity to discover the kitchen. To Cordelia Mukan Mc Kenna and Wynn Seishin Wright, for their editing genius, and without whom this book would not have been possible. To the late Masterchef Bill Hufferd, and to his wife Kelly, for their impeccable kitchen skills and instructions. To all members of the Kirigaya-ji kitchen staff, who introduced us to Japanese homestyle cooking. To Seiki, for giving me the courage to start baking cakes, and for her energetic support. To Doin, for his technical expertise at crucial moments. To Shugetsu, whom I promised a book of recipes as a gift for her birthday years ago. To Harley, who threatened to go on hunger strike if I did not finish this book, soon! To Keizan, who put the idea of a cookbook into my head – in 1995 no less. To Shorin and Taian for proof-reading. To Jifu, Koren, Gakudo, Ranka, Chikyo, Myokan, and all those who tested recipes and gave invaluable feedback. To Thistle, who came and sat on my keyboard when I needed a break. And to everyone who chopped, prepared, served, and ate all the meals.

About the Author Tamara (Tammy) Myoho Gabrysch is a qualified Zen teacher in the White Plum Zen lineage, enthusiastic Zen cook and artist. She has a degree in the Fine Arts and uses her visual training for food, photography and painting. Myoho began cooking for Zen retreats not long after she began studying under Genpo Merzel Roshi at the Kanzeon Zen Center, Bar Harbor, Maine, in 1988. She later received Shiho from Genpo Roshi in Salt Lake City in May 2008, and in June 2013 completed formal training in Japan at Toshoji monastery in Okayama. That same year she completed Zuisse (ceremonial abbot for the night) at Eiheiji and Sojiji in Japan, which together gave her further accreditation within the Soto School as Kokusaifukyoshi (missionary priest). On June 28, 2018, she received Inka (final seal of approval) from Genpo Roshi at Zen River. He gave her the new Dharma name Tenshin 天頂 (zenith). In between trips to Japan and the USA, she continues to cook for everyone at Zen River several days a week, happily painting away with the vast array of herbs and spices tucked inside the kitchen cupboards. Myoho is a contributing author to “The Hidden Lamp”, a collection of one hundred koans and stories of Buddhist women from the time of the Buddha to the present day. (Compiled and edited by Florence Caplow and Sue Moon. Wisdom publications, 2014.) She also maintains a vegetarian recipe blog at www.zenrivertemple.org/zrcblog