Weavers of the Southern Highlands 0813192218, 9780813192215

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weavers ofthe southern highlands

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weavers ofthe

southern highlands

-philis alvic

THE UNIVERSITY PRESS OF KENTUCKY

Copyright © 2003 by The University Press of Kentucky Paperback edition 2009 The University Press of Kentucky Scholarly publisher for the Commonwealth, serving Bellarmine University, Berea College, Centre College of Kentucky, Eastern Kentucky University, The Filson Historical Society, Georgetown College, Kentucky Historical Society, Kentucky State University, Morehead State University, Murray State University, Northern Kentucky University, Transylvania University, University of Kentucky, University of Louisville, and Western Kentucky University. All rights reserved. Editorial and Sales Offices: The University Press of Kentucky 663 South Limestone Street, Lexington, Kentucky 40508-4008 www.kentuckypress.com Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available from the Library of Congress. ISBN 978-0-8131-9221-5 (pbk: alk. paper) This book is printed on acid-free paper meeting the requirements of the American National Standard for Permanence in Paper for Printed Library Materials.

Manufactured in the United States of America. Member of the Association of American University Presses

To my husband Gary Schroeder, who has been a vitalpart ofthis book, even before it began to take the form ofa book. He served many functions: facilitating the research, assuming many unexciting tasks in the various research projects and in the formation ofthe book, continually prodding me to adopt new technology, and always encouraging me to keep going.

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contents

List of Illustrations and Maps

VI11

List of Appalachian Settlement Schools and Weaving Centers

XIII

Preface 1. Foundations of the Appalachian Craft Revival

xx

1

2. Common Threads

15

3. Berea College and Fireside Industries

35

4. Pi Beta Phi Settlement School and Arrowcraft

56

5. Appalachian School and Penland Weavers and Potters

75

6. The Weavers of Rabun

96

7. Other Mountain Weaving Centers

113

8. Weavers and Managers

135

9. Production

152

10. Financing and Fulfilling a Mission

169

Appendix: List of Oral History Interviews

190

Notes

193

Bibliography

212

Index

224

illustrations and maps

ill ustrations Weaver at Loom Walker Sisters Family in Front of Cabin Mary Sloop Looking at Weaving Early Berea Weavers Appalachian School Room Early Gatlinburg Pi Beta Phi Teachers 11/2 Miles to School-Penland View from the Weaving Shed Daughters of the American Revolution Olive Dane Campbell and John Jacob Niles Southern Mountain Workers, 1926 Southern Mountain Workers, Speakers First Southern Highland Handicraft Guild Fair Southern Highlanders, Inc. Cover-Handicrafts ofthe Southern Highlands Penland's Weaving Institute Rural Handicrafts Booklet Allen Eaton and Tina McMorran President Frost Women Carding Wool Hettie Wright Graham Jennie Lester Hill Ernberg and Weavers Log House Ballard with Weavers

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1 2

4 5 7 8 11 12

13 14 15 17 18 20

22 23 27 29 32

34 36

37 39 40 41 43

44

Illustrations and Maps

47

Anna Ernberg Mountain Weaver Boy Labor Day Fireside Weaver First Class Pi Beta Phi School Chairs and Baskets Redding T eaching Weaver Aunt Lizzie Reagan Izora Bringing in Weaving Redding Gathering Weaving Arrowcraft Shop in Snow Meta Schattschneider Shipping Room at Arrowcraft Summer Crafts Workshop Amy Burt with Children Lucy Morgan Checking in Work Weavers' Day Winding Bobbins Checking Pottery Lucy Morgan at the Century of Progress Ridgeway Porch Flossie Perisho Theresa's Wedding Bonnie Willis Ford and Lucy Morgan Jay Hambidge Mary Hambidge Eleanor Steele and Hall Clovis Rock House Early Weavers on Rock House Steps Dye Shed Weaving Shed Farm with Sheep Mary Hambidge and Vassos Kanellos Mary Hambidge Eliza Shirley Light in the Mountains Zada Benfield and Marian Brown Crossnore's Log Building Frances L. Goodrich Shuttle Crafters

51

53 56

58 60 62 63 65 66 68

69 70 76 78 79 80

82 83 86 90

92 93 97 98

99 101 102 104 106 107 108 111 115 116

118 119 122

124

IX

Illustrations and Maps

The Spinning Wheel Eleanor Churchill Churchill-Winding Warp Churchill Weavers Weaver with Yarn Redding, McCarter and Izora Keeler Sally Spark at her Loom Weaver and Child Penland Weavers Sewing Weaver at Tallulah Falls Emma Conley Lucy Morgan at her Loom

Lily Mills Practical Weaving Suggestions Tina McMorran Weaver at Barn Loom Woman at Ernberg Loom Warping Threading Heddles at Churchill Coverlet Patterns Conley and Lewis at Dyepot Homespun Flyer Tallulah Falls School and the Georgia Women's Club Churchill Interior Arrowcraft Interior Berea Bags Louise Pitman and ODC Sales Area at Crossnore Molly Moore Early Arrowcraft Shop Cora Morton Demonstrating Arrowcraft Catalog Tallulah Falls School and the Georgia Women's Club Inside Clover Bottom Craft House Porch

126 130 131 133 135 136 137 139 141 142 145 146 148 149 152 154 155 156 158 160 161 163 165 167 170 172 173 175 176 179 181 184 188 189

maps Appalachian Settlement Schools Appalachian Weaving Centers

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1 Berry School 2 Tallulah Falls School 3 Weavers of Rabun 4 Pine Mountain School 5 Hindmand School 6 Churchill Weavers 7 Berea College 8 Matheny Weavers 9 Crossnore School 1a Spinning Wheel 11 Campbell Folk School 12 Allanstand 13 Dorland-Bell School 14 Penland Weavers 0Columhi 15 The Weave Shop U 16 Markle School A 0 II 17 Pleasant Hill School 18 The Shuttle-Crafters 19 Arrowcraft

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