Travels with Ted & Ned 0385266812
409 118 30MB
English Pages [339] Year 1992
Polecaj historie
Citation preview
$2^.UU
U.S.
CANADA $30.00
A,
legendary years at the helm of
-fter thirty-five
Dame,
the University of Notre
the Reverend
Theodore M. Hesburgh turned away from
his
and
daily obligations as university president
set
his sights on something altogether different: the
freedom and adventure of exotic journeys throughout the world.
On
the heels of his 1990
New
York Times best-
selling autobiography, God. Country. Notre
Father Ted ing,
Whether
around the world on the
it's
an RV, or
2. across the continental divide in
through the wilds of the readers will be
and
a rich, entertain-
and informative account of postretirement
travels.
QE
Hesburgh presents
Dame,
drawn
his intimate
Amazon on
a riverboat,
to Father Ted's adventures
view of retirement
as the
begin-
ning of freedom and the launching of new modes of useful service.
Joining him on his travels Cross priest Father
his fellow
is
Ned Joyce, who,
as
Holy Notre
Dame's Executive Vice President, long served Father Ted's right-hand man. professional relationship
From
and evident friendship
emerge the companionable elements of adventure, an adventure that ers will
want
Making
as
their long
many
fans
a shared
and read-
to share as well.
a clean break
new, Ted and
Ned
between the old and
set their sights
on the new
horizons of an enchanting and color- filled jour-
ney
— from the far reaches of Alaska through the
Panama Canal and
the Strait of Magellan toward
the icy waters off Antarctica.
An
inspiration to
satisfying phase of
all
life,
contemplating a new and
Ted and Ned's message
that approaching retirement
than death.
It
is
is
not a fate worse
can be rewarding and exciting. In
(continued on back flap)
travel; with
TED & NED
Kli^-^^-a-^
fnr^
FRAVEL; W
Ii
t
h
TED & NED ^^ Theodore M. Hesburgh, j^.S.C. Edited by ]erry Reedy
DOUBLEDAY Neui York
London
Toronto
Sydney
Auckland
^f^
PUBLISHED BY DOUBLEDAY
a division of
Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group,
666
Fifth
Doubleday and
Avenue,
New
York,
NY
Inc.
10103
the portrayal of an anchor with a dolphin
are trademarks of Doubleday, a division of
Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group,
Book
Inc.
design by Richard Oriolo
Endpaper maps by AheriDonnell Studios
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Hesburgh, Theodore Martin, 1917Travels with
Ted and Ned
/
Theodore M. Hesburgh
:
edited by
Jerry Reedy. p.
cm.
Includes index. 1.
Hesburgh, Theodore Martin, 1917 travels— 1981-
1.
—
Reedy,
[G465.H485
910.4—dc20
^Journeys.
Jerry.
II.
2.
Voyages and
Title.
1992]
92-26432
GIF ISBN 0-385-26681-2 Copyright
©
1992 by Theodore M. Hesburgh, C.S.C. All Rights Reserved
Printed in the United States of America
November 1992
First
13579
Edition 10
8642
I
CONTENTS -^v
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS INTRODUCTION I.
II.
III.
IV.
V.
OUT WEST LATIN AMERICA
ON THE CARIBBEAN ABOARD THE QE2 AROUND THE WORLD ON THE QE2
viii
ix
1
81
169
179
ANTARCTICA AFTERWORD
311
INDEX
314
273
lb the University of Notre Dame,
a special place, because of the
patronage of a very special Lady. This book
is
dedicated to the Lady,
Notre Dame, and to the place, with love and gratitude for a happy life,
spent here for half a century.
The
year recounted in this book was a year away from Notre
Dame but never that far away, as we encountered wonderful Notre Dame alumni and alumnae everywhere we went, from Alaska to Antarctica.
-
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
JL
my
book began with a
his
travels during
our
first
daily diary
I
dictated describing Ned's and
year of retirement. Dick Conklin, associate
vice president of Notre Dame's University Relations
Dennis Moore
colleague,
staff,
and
his
in Public Relations, gave the transcripts
their excellent editorial critique.
When
1
decided to turn the diaries into a book,
who
of travel writer Jerry Reedy,
Country,
my
Notre Dame,
I
collaborated with
autobiography.
had the help
me on
God,
Deftly wielding his red
pencil, Jerry further streamlined the transcripts, reducing
them
to
about half their original length. For these essential services
and
Jerry.
Hosinski,
1
also
who
owe much
my
to
I
am
truly grateful to Dick,
Dennis,
secretary of thirty-eight years,
Helen
typed the original diaries amid myriad other tasks. Her
successor, Melanie Chapleau, generously took
up the task when Helen
retired.
Books never get published without the unsung work of publishers
and
their supportive
and professional
staffs.
In this case, kudos to Bill
Barry of Doubleday and his associates, especially I
am
also grateful to
my
religious
Mike
lannazzi.
community, the Congregation
of Holy Cross, for making such a wonderful year possible. Both
to
Ned
came back refreshed, renewed, better informed, and very ready go to work again in a different yet challenging context. Finally, my gratitude to Ned Joyce, my companion in all of these
and
I
travels.
Always
deficiencies as
affable
and agreeable, he put up generously with
we deepened
a friendship that
is
now more than
my four
decades old. I
also
thank those
traveled with us.
who
in reality
and through
this
book have
INTRODUCTION -^v
/"UN JL his
is
obviously a book about travel and two seventy-year-old Holy
who
Cross priests
did the traveling.
It
was the way we chose to begin our
retirement after working together for thirty-five years as president and executive vice president of the University of Notre us
Dame. Our friends
call
Ted and Ned.
We
began in June 1987 by traveling throughout the West and Far
Northwest of the United States in a recreational vehicle or
wiched between
legs of this
motor
two-engine Cessna airplane.
We
trip
flew
RV
Sand-
was a journey to Alaska in a small all
over this enormous state, from
Sitka in the south to Kotzebue, just north of the Arctic Circle.
After a scant week or so back at Notre Dame, our
home
we
base,
were off to Central and South America, from Mexico to Patagonia and
most countries in between. This segment, mostly done by commercial airliner, also
included a month- long, 2,000-mile trip
on the Sodevy Belem,
Brazil,
on the Atlantic coast.
the Evar^eUsta at Puerto Natales
Chilean
We
fjords all the
were back
before sailing
Later, in southern Chile,
on the
Pacific coast
Notre
on the Queen
Dame
in
mid-December
on January
at
Amazon
Ocean, to
we boarded
and cruised the
Notre Dame.
for a
week or
so
EUzabeth 2's Caribbean Christmas cruise,
We
returned in January and then
again immediately to take care of other business,
Ned
the
way to Puerto Montt.
at
earning our passage as chaplains.
Holland,
down
Explorer from Iquitos, Peru, near the Pacific
I
at
The Hague
left
in
We then shipped out together on the QE2
13 for the second time in a month, this time to serve as
IX
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&.
on an around-the-world cmise. When we returned in May, we had sailed for more dian a hundred days and visited some forty countries. The around-the-world cruise on the QE2 was to have been the final segment of our year of travel, but our friends on the Society Explorer's chaplains
Red Ship" decided diey wanted us back as chaplains for their Christmas cruise to Antarctica. So off we went again this time from the Strait of Magellan due south across the Drake Passage. It is 600 miles of "Little
—
the roughest ocean in the world, but once you've completed the passage you're rewarded with
some of the
most glorious (and
world's
iciest)
scenery.
So there
it
marked the
a curious combination of travels that
is:
begirming of our retirement years. Looking back, we can say that
way
great
to begin
what has now
from those jobs that we held
We
for
were long gone and
start retirement.
Father Bill
We
lengthened into almost
it
five years
was a away
such a long time.
far
away
all
told our successors,
Beauchamp, both of
whom
which
year,
Father
good
are
the best
is
way
to
"Monk" Malloy and "Be yourselves
friends,
It's now your show. Do it your way." They took us at our bother them. Hardly a postcard passed back and forth we didn't word, and for the whole year. That was good for them and good for us too.
and
forget us.
We made
at the prospect of the first sabbatical
with joy
years of very
up
front.
all
we had on
service, of always being
year was
daily, old friends
full
and during the
of
new
sights
We
did
We
occasions
of always being
and sounds, new
friends
And
a strong link to the past, especially at our
daily prayers
we
offered together.
We also had
we never
prepared and delivered homilies every day, even
when
happily,
ever had, after long
call,
opportunities for pastoral services along the way, so
useless.
it
and alumni encountered everywhere.
that newness there was
daily Masses
more
demanding
The whole
made almost with
a clean break from the old to the new.
felt
on those
the only listeners were ourselves.
There were wonderful for reading all the
free
swatches of time, especially aboard ship,
good books that enticed
Massie's Peter the Great, as
I
did,
us.
while floating
Imagine reading Robert
down
the
Amazon. There
were hundreds of good conversations that we never had time for during the hustle and bustle of our past
with
all
of our
new
was indeed true of
friends. this
lives,
conversations with each other and
"Never a dull moment"
enchanting year of living
variety of new circumstances.
is
a trite phrase, but
it
and learning in a wide
THEODORE Why did we decide over the world?
The
HESBURGH
M.
to spend our
best answer
first
can give
I
year of retirement traveling is
president and executive vice president, a lot of people asked us
planned to do when we
we planned
often just said that writing. life
of
From those
its
80 in a
behind.
to
hadn't given
do some
it
much
traveling,
what we
thought, so
almost before large
we knew
it,
we
some reading and
casual responses, the travel idea gradually took
And
own.
Interstate
We
retired.
all
that during our final year as
on
a
we were heading west on
motor home with an automobile hooked on
We hadn't a clue as to what was in store for us.
Each night diary form.
While
when he
isn't
somewhat
briefer
my
dictated
I
it is
my
book,
mentioned
which explains why
diary,
my
(Doubleday, 1990),
it
book
is
in
Ned Joyce is very much part of it, even He also kept his own diary,
specifically.
than mine. Because there
to contemplate in
this
is
more about me than
recent autobiography, God, Country, Notre
seems
fitting in this place to say
1
care
Dame
something about
He will blush at the thought, but this book will make more sense if you know something about both of us. Father Ned Joyce was my right-hand man for the entire thirty-five
Ned
Joyce.
years that
I
was president of Notre Dame.
recount, even in cursory fashion,
Dame
all
It
would be impossible to
the great things he did for Notre
during his thirty-five years as executive vice president. Without
him, both the university and
Many
during those years. always there.
I
would have been much diminished.
Ned was
In a very real sense
And up until
at a time, but
I
came and went, but Ned was when we created the position of provost,
vice presidents
1970,
he was always the number two was acting president, the
the anchor of the executive echelon
man
man
in authority.
in charge.
never worried for a
I
moment
When
I
was away, he
traveled a lot, often for
about
how
weeks
the university was
my absence. With Ned Joyce in charge, I knew had nothing to worry about. He was, and is, a man of impeccable moral character, shrewd doing in
I
judgment, rocklike
The
first
time
fidelity, 1
and unfailing dependability.
met Ned Joyce was the day he was ordained, June
1949, the same year
I
became executive
ceremony was over and Ned was on president, Father
young
priests still
way
do for
relatives
Ned and
when he worked
and
The
close friends
blessing,
8,
ordination
to the office of Notre
John Cavanaugh, to give him a
friendship between
days
his
vice president.
Dame's
something
on ordination
day.
The
Father John had started during Ned's student
as Father John's secretary.
XI
I
also
had some business
TRAVELS WITH TED with Father John that day, and
came Ned. met
just as
I
was on
remember being stmck by
I
my way
his vitality
into his office, out
and ebullience
ourselves to each other.
and introduced
in the hallway
NED
&.
1
as
could
we tell
immediately that there was something special about him.
Cavanaugh
me
later told
had been graduated from Notre the
CPA
Ned had majored
that
Dame
exam, worked in the business world
come back
to Notre
months older than
1
Dame was.
in accounting
He had
with high honors.
for five years,
and
passed
then had
He was just three at Notre Dame in 1934-35
to study for the priesthood.
We
had overlapped
and 1936-37, but had not known each other.
On
his return to
not much
different
Notre
Dame
and assigned him
assistant rector of Morrissey Hall
He'd been
at
it
after ordination,
barely
became
go to Arizona, where the climate was
tapped
Ned
to
fill
first
job was
to teach theology.
one semester when Father John Burke, who was
financial vice president at that time,
to
Ned's
than what mine had been. They made him an
in for Burke,
and
sick with nephritis
and had
Cavanaugh immediately
drier.
in a couple of
weeks Ned had
everything running smoothly.
When
Burke came back
Cavanaugh and
come
told
at the
end of the summer,
1
went
to see
him how impressed I had been with the way Ned had
into that department cold
and yet had done such a superb
job.
then recommended to Father John that he send Ned over to Oxford
I
for a
PPE (Philosophy, Political Science, and Economics). That, with his CPA, would put him on an equal footing with the Ph.D.s in the administration, were he to become a permanent member of it after returning from Oxford. The degree would also expose Ned to a lot of things he probably hadn't read when he was studying business and degree in
accounting. Father John took to the idea immediately. I
did,
He
liked
Ned
and he could see that the additional degree would be
him. T) no one's classroom,
made
surprise, all
Ned took Oxford by
kinds of friends, played
Oxford basketball team,
assisted the
storm.
He
as
much
as
beneficial for
excelled in the
on a world championship
famous Father Ronald Knox on
Sundays, and was unofficial chaplain to the American Rhodes Scholars at Oxford.
Among them was John Brademas,
the
man, House Whip, and president of New York
known
people
whom Ned came
to
know
at
fixture
Indiana congress-
University.
Other
well-
Oxford were the author
Robert Massie and the present director of the Library of Congress, Jim
— THEODORE Ned also knew them in Campion Hall. Billington.
Despite
all
the Jesuits at Oxford because he lived with
Ned had
the success and enjoyment
memory was
his fondest
all
HESBURGH
M.
at
Oxford,
suspect
I
Ned had
the basketball championship.
played
high school basketball in South Carolina, and he had looked forward to trying out for the
when he
failed to
Dame
Notre
make
team. His hopes were dashed, though,
One
the cut.
reason,
1
imagine, was that he was
about a year younger than his classmates and had not yet reached his growth. By the time he reached Oxford, of course, he was
He
stood more than six feet
playing
In the
skills,
was
all
and
tall,
he needed to make the All- America team
by the U.S. Air Force. Oxford won, and
make
the team at Notre
on a world championship team
)
They
Dame
all
at
his
Oxford.
of a sudden the fellow
Ned
also
who
found himself
fifteen years earlier
in England.
America we
or rather half blue. (In give blues.
grown.
was Ned's team against another All- America team fielded
finals, it
couldn't
fiilly
combined with
his height,
full
won an Oxford blue,
give varsity letters; in
Oxford they
don't rate basketball at Oxford as highly as cricket or
rowing.
About a
year and a half after
nephritis flared
up again,
Ned
time
this
arrived at Oxford, Father Burke's
We summoned Ned
fatally.
back to
Notre Dame, and he took over the financial vice presidency once more. I'm sure
Ned would have
preferred to stay at
Oxford and
finish his degree,
but good soldier that he's always been, he came back to Notre
went
By the time Cavanaugh appointed me
to work.
so after Ned's return,
Ned Joyce. Not an all-around
I
already
knew whom
first-class fellow,
to be very important because athletic
integrity that
provincial
had
but he
it
also
number two
much
interested
me, but
I
just
athletics.
considered
it
gave national visibility to the university.
department also had a tradition of enforcing academic I
knew Ned would maintain and even
strengthen.
The
to appoint him, of course, because in those days the school
me
that
I
could pick
my
much a formality. Ned and I have worked extraordinarily well together, we balance each other so nicely. That's another way of
so the appointment was pretty
Over the
years
no doubt because
saying we're quite different from
know
for
knew and cared about
was run by the order. But they had already told
own team,
president, a year or
wanted
only was he an extremely capable administrator, and
This was an area that had never
The
I
Dame and
one another. For that reason, those who
us well consider us rather strange
Xlll
boon companions. Ned
is
a
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&
Southerner from Spartanburg, South Carolina;
I
am
a Yankee from
am better with words. He is patient and methodical; am impatient and impulsive. He is a good athlete; I have two left feet. And to be completely honest, should New
Syracuse in upstate
He
York.
good with numbers;
is
I
I
I
admit that he has more virtue than
We I
are also characterized by
being the
Ned
liberal,
a label that doesn't conservative
fit
when
it
1.
some
and conservative terms,
in liberal
the conservative. I've always
me
all
comes
felt
that neatly. For example,
that "liberal"
is
think I'm radier
1
Ned, on the other hand, tends to
to values.
take a conservative stance about most things, especially in the area of
Given
finance.
and business background,
his accounting
not
that's
surprising.
Ned also at everything,
likes to take his
and always makes
sure all the
dotted. He's a meticulous planner. right in.
planning.
It's
same way when we
the
long time, thinking about the way he wants
just
assistant
it,
that
I
don't like
made me
I
it,
writing
it
my
speaking
work on a out,
talk for a
making
1
it's
former
said
it
was
admit
freely
I
and
sure
My
once
style,
carefully prepared text,
terribly
i's
jump
to
get impatient with
him up and turning him on."
to speak from a
habit that hasn't
and
talks are more spontaneous.
referring to
only a matter of "standing
and the
are crossed
t's
give talks. He'll
organizing
My
it.
John Wilson, in
looks ten ways
on the other hand, tend
I,
to take financial chances,
like
1
He
time making a decision.
rarely do, a
popular with some of the people in our
public relations area.
But different
as
for thirty-five years
have we had
we
and
are,
Ned and
there's never
I
felt
never disagreed trust
on the
for
1
than
it is
dating
the
when
did disagree 1
policies, procedures,
implicitly,
have to give
compatibility, because
that
on
us. I
Nor
would various
deferred to him.
and
projects,
we
goals or the philosophy of the university'.
one another
me. But
on anything
When we
and we have enormous respect and
admiration for one another. There's nothing
he
closely together
been a bad word between
was wrong about half the time and
1
While we disagreed occasionally on
We
we have worked
a single serious disagreement
consider fundamentally important. decisions,
I,
it's
wouldn't do for him, nor
Ned more than
much more
number one. You
1
just
difficult to
half the credit for our
be the number two
man
normally have to be more accommo-
the fellow you're working with
XIV
is
your boss.
1
knew
that.
THEODORE because
I
worked
HESBURGH
M.
under Father Cavanaugh for
as executive vice president
three years.
could be argued that the reason
It
another so long and so well was that we
much. There's some truth
that for
in this.
When he was traveling,
me.
went anywhere
together. This
Ned and
When
I
was
covered for him.
I
may
travel together for a full year, a lot of
got along with one
I
really weren't
around each other
traveling,
he covered
wasn't often that
It
we
when we decided to wondered how long it would
explain why,
people
be before we couldn't stand each other.
Then
there was the matter of living
Holy Cross community
at
on our own,
away from the
far
how to cook, community is much easier.
Notre Dame. Neither of us knew
much less how to do laundry. Living in the The bell rings and you go down to eat. On Sunday night you toss out your laundry and it comes back clean on Thursday. On this trip, we enjoyed
We were completely on our own. High time, Now the young priests at Notre Dame all know
none of these conveniences.
some undoubtedly
how
said.
cook and do laundry.
to
We
didn't spend as
The RV was
supplied to
much money on this trip as you might think. us by a Notre Dame Trustee, Art Decio, who is
chief executive officer of the Skyline Corporation. For this segment of the
We were guests of Ollie Cunningham
our only real cost was gasoline.
trip,
on the Alaskan segment. He not only accompanied the plane and the pilot. Latin America was
all
us but also supplied
economy-class
air fares,
On
the
earlier,
we
with a friend picking up the cost of the month on the Amazon.
QE2 and worked
the Society Explorer to Antarctica, as
for
I
mentioned
our passage by serving as chaplains each day.
some generous
gifts at
retirement that helped a
lot.
Some might say, what do you do for an encore? words
it
Amazon.
is
Easter Sunday,
We
had
full
and
and a homily each day since we history of the
cabin TVs.
—mostly
crew
Amazon
And
last
Washington
this
night
Filipinos
When we dock
I
Holy Week
—
in
am
We also received
Well, as
aboard the Seaborne
I
write these
Spirit
on the
services for all Christians aboard.
Fort Lauderdale,
left
morning with a replay
we had
lecture
on the
afternoon
on the
and a
this
Mass
special Easter Vigil services for the
at midnight.
Manaus
for a Saturday
this Friday, I'm off to Rio,
New York, and
wedding, and must be in Boston Saturday
evening for a two-day meeting of Harvard's Board of Overseers.
XV
The next
TRAVELS WITH TED day
fly
I
to Johns
Hopkins
NED
&
and then back to Notre
for eye treatment
Dame. annual alumni meetings from
Dame from Manaus New York City to Pocatello,
ten meetings in ten days, plus
travel.
Ned
goes directly back to Notre
for ten days of
Idaho.
He
has
When we returned to the University of Notre Dame after the year of sabbatical,
the library.
we
we both keep
many
new
adjoining offices
no
on the
thirteenth floor of
administrative duties, thank
God, but
very busy at other activities, both at the university
and with
absolutely
other organizations around the world that correlate with our work
here.
turn
settled into
We have
do hope we
I
are pulling our weight,
down many new
invitations
and
1
think
we
are,
because
we
each week, simply because we are
overcommitted and short of time. I
mention these
activities
approaching retirement that
not to brag but to assure
it is
not a
fate
men and women
worse than death. Rather,
it
Ned and I are probably overdoing it, accepting too many new tasks, but we can always retrench when some of the present projects, like mine on the Knight Commission on reforming intercollegiate athletics, are completed. Anyway, we'd much rather be overcommitted than undercommitted. Too many people take retirement too seriously. They shut off the lights, lock the door, and vegetate. Others may drink too many martinis or play too much gin rummy. That isn't retirement; it's quitting while still having much to give, much to enjoy, much to love, much living yet to do. This book, therefore, isn't just about travel, as much fun as travel can be both rewarding and
exciting.
can
a
be.
lifelong
Fundamentally
it's
book about
totally
way of living without coming apart
enjoying, not dreading retirement.
And
ping, at long
We've done
last,
to smell the roses.
XVI
changing one's ordinary,
at the seams.
yes,
it's
It's
a
book about
about stopping
just that.
—
stop-
»
Part
I
^v
Out West
THURSDAY, JUNE
11,
1987
Notre Dame, Indiana
/"UN JLhis Great Adventure, unlike many others, began precisely on time.
We
had planned
to leave the University at 9:15 A.M.
from the
back gate in our Skyline motor home. Around 9:05, Father Ned,
on the Kaddy Kar, a small Chevy behind the
dressed in his coveralls, put the last touches trailerlike rig that
would enable us to
RV. For the next twelve weeks,
pull a
would follow us
it
like a
dingy lifeboat
following a yacht.
At
hundred
9:10, as about a
faithful souls gathered around.
Gene
athletic director, broke a bottle of champagne
Corrigan, Notre Dame's
Then Ned and I gave the RV a blessing, christening it the Lindy, the name of Art Decio's daughter. At 9:15 sharp we climbed in and, with Ned at the wheel, headed for the exit. The smart money at Notre Dame said we wouldn't get past Gary, over our front bumper.
Indiana, about seventy-five miles to the west; so as
held a sign to the window.
A
It said,
university security car,
its
we pulled away
I
"Gary or Bust." siren blaring, preceded us until
we
reached the entrance to the Indiana Toll Road (Interstate 80) and
headed west. Never had two more innocent persons taken to the road in
an RV. Although Ned had been given some instructions by the
Skyline people in nearby Elkhart, twice before and part
knew
why Ned was
I
had seen the vehicle only once or
absolutely nothing about
driving.
Not wanting
prayed the Breviary—out loud so
it
it.
That explains
to be completely useless,
counted
for
both of us.
in I
We decided
TRAVELS WITH TED that
we would make
each morning and
this a regular practice
Whoever
trip.
after-
wasn't driving did the praying.
noon As we continued heading west on throughout the
NED
&
Interstate
80 in
this large
motor home
with our automobile in tow, we hadn't a clue as to what
was in store
for us.
But
as
Gary came and went, we couldn't
congratulating each other. Even
Hammond,
reached
Indiana,
if
disaster
we had
at
resist
were to strike us before we least
proved the skeptics
wrong.
Dame, we learned our
RV
fiiel
The Moline,
full
first
fairly
It
took
our tank, which meant we were
Of course,
the
heavily laden, and we were dragging that
of odds and ends and excess baggage.
night out
Illinois,
his wife,
fill
consumption.
fuel
about the same rate as a small airplane.
was new and
Chevrolet,
and
at
RV
lesson in
first
twenty-two gallons of gasoline to burning
Notre
interstate service station about 125 miles west of
At an
we decided
and checked in
Joyce.
to play
at the
As might be
home
We
safe.
it
pulled into
of our trustee Jerry
Hank
we not only had
expected,
a
wonderful evening with cocktails and dinner but also comfortable beds and a good night's sleep. of
months of goodbyes that
moving. Or maybe
it
I
I
was so fatigued
went
to
bed and
was the Moline
slept ten hours
Or
air.
after the past
the
first
couple
without
full
day of
freedom.
FRIDAY. JUNE Moline,
w. e
had Mass with the Hanks;
when we can pray gave us
what had
for the
12
Illinois
it is
whole family
always a wonderful experience in a friend's
home. Then Joyce
to be the best breakfast we'd have in the next two or
three months. I
began thinking of how the early immigrants picked up their
Conestoga wagons
at Studebaker's in
South Bend back
in the last
century and then traveled west toward St. Louis, where they crossed the Mississippi River and headed out to the
Oregon
Trail.
Here we
were one day out in Moline and already crossing the Mississippi River into Iowa.
We
picked up more fuel before leaving and found that we
had gone through another twenty-two
gallons.
We're averaging about
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
we expect to do better after Lindy is a bit more broken in and we master some of the tricks of economy driving. By the end of the day, we made it across Iowa and decided to try 5.8 miles per gallon, but
our luck at a campground in the Wilson Island Recreation Area near
on the Missouri
the town of Missouri Valley, Iowa,
and beautiful
beautiful place with spacious grounds
River.
river oaks,
It's
a
and our
particular parking place allows us to get out without backing up. This is
a real blessing, as backing up
minutes disconnecting the
We
means having
rig that links us to
hooked up the Lindy's systems
shortly after 5 P.M.
Then
it
was time
spend
to
five to
twenty
the Chevy.
to the water
and
electricity
walk to get the
for a pleasant
kinks out of our legs and have a try at cooking dinner. Fortunately, Joyce
beef as
we
our
Hank
tips
froze
and
rice
what was
solo attempt at a meal.
microwave
for additional
in fact. But dinner,
we
felt
quite confident about
directions said six minutes to
minutes so
had
just
beginning
directions say you can always reset the
once we got
We
Coffee was easier.
the night before,
minutes the beef and rice were
The
to get a little soft.
The
we had
had read up on the microwave
I
rolled along in the afternoon, so
first
defrost, but after fifteen
it
of the meal
left
with green peppers.
to
that's
warm
—
what we did
several times,
properly warmed, was delicious.
it
the water only three times before
was hot enough.
Our next
challenge was the TV, which surprised us by providing
a better picture than
we
get in our offices at Notre
a couple of old reruns until 11:30 P.M.
Dame.
We watched
and then decided to check on
the technology again. To our surprise, the gray water (which, to put it
nicely,
full
is all
tank, so
of the sewage, apart from the solid waste) was almost a
we would have
to
dump
it
in the
morning somewhere
in
the campground where they have a place for this sort of thing. Also,
although we didn't think we were using
much
water,
we had gone
through half of the forty gallons we picked up from Jerry Hank's garden hose. This without any showers and not very either, except dishes.
We
also
much washing
had picked up a gallon of drinking
water.
Now we
were really getting our minds focused, thinking about
important things that had eluded us
and sewage. With
bathroom on the
all
RV
all
of these years, such as water
kinds of ingenuity, neither of us has used the
yet. That's the
only advantage of having to stop
TRAVELS WITH TED so
many
Here we
fiiel.
also solved the mystery of the
RV's
comphcated Japanese model, but wonderful once one learns it. It's surprising how many good FM stations there are
radio, a
how
times for
NED
&
to use
along the way, even though one runs out of range of them rather quickly.
As we well.
We
settled in for
some
rest,
the air conditioning was working
have a dual system, one up front where we drive, and one in
we
the back where
live.
So
good with both systems, even
so
far,
was over 95 degrees today in Iowa. As
though
it
insisted
on taking the bunk over the
usual virtue and generosity, but turns, since
it
cab. This
to get
up there and
most commodious place in the world. However, longer than the
who
bunk
in the back,
It's
almost impossible to
the one over the cab. bags. Tonight
which
than
a couple of inches taller
is
argument.
was a
Our
Ned
was prepared to argue about taking
I
some acrobatics
requires
for sleeping,
in keeping with his
is
not the
turns out that
it
it's
simply too short for Ned,
is
am. So
I
it's
make up
this
terminated the
these bunks, especially
solution was to get a couple of sleeping
bit too
warm
for
We
them.
had thrown
in a
couple of afghans before we began, and they worked just fine as the
We
temperature dropped along the Missouri River.
both were asleep
about three minutes after hitting the pillow. Maybe the nightcap helped.
It's
hard to believe we have survived two days so
SATURDAY, JUNE
far.
13
Missouri Valley, Iowa
N,
me and went
ed was up an hour before
out walking on a nature
path in the woods, where he promptly got breathless just as
van
I
We
for Mass.
was setting up our
and bran
years, but
because
We
on
agreed
Ned had
he seemed to enjoy
many
to them.
We
flakes.
it
it.
back
was his turn to be
a simple breakfast: orange juice,
probably not eaten dry cereal in
Shopping
of the service stations have
also did the usual
arrived
table in the middle of the
concelebrate each day. Today
principal celebrant. coffee,
little
He
lost.
food has been easy,
for
little
commissaries attached
housekeeping chores,
the garbage and cleaning up the van.
The van
with cupboards everywhere, and everything
fifty
is
tidily
like disposing of
almost like a ship,
stacked away so that
THEODORE it
won't
out while we're moving.
fall
HESBURGH
M.
We
have plenty of things to read
and often read to each other from things we
find particularly interest-
Light reading was fun after plowing through a whole series of
ing.
came with the Lindy. It seems every hour we discover something new about this vehicle, which is marvelous in its ingenuity of design. Not a square inch of space is wasted. We were back on the road at nine o'clock and soon afterward crossed into South Dakota. That makes four states in three days, so technical manuals that
we
are
making some
We
progress.
straight stretches to put the
also took advantage of the long
van on cruise control
an hour. That raised our average
fuel
at
consumption
miles a gallon, considerably better than yesterday.
been doing
of the driving, but
all
away from heavy
traffic.
to almost seven
So
far,
Ned
has
be easing into that as we get
Driving on long stretches of interstate
problem, but the Chevy fairly
I'll
about 60 miles
we're pulling can
make
off- road
no
is
maneuvers
complicated.
The weather
has been great so
temperatures mainly in the 80s.
com, which
have passed a few million acres of
gives every indication of being well
high by the Fourth of
one of the
We
with bright sunny skies and
far,
greatest
July.
on
its
way
to knee-
This agricultural land out here has to be
boons of our nation, and the world too, since
we've been feeding the hungry everywhere these past years. We've also
noticed that the people look healthier and more wholesome as one
moves
west.
We
arrived in Sioux Falls,
around 100,000 population,
checked into a Holiday Inn
it
South Dakota, around noon. With is
the largest city in the state.
for the
time.
first
The
chain has given us passes that are good for a year, so to enjoy
an occasional
respite
this
enable us
they'll
from sleeping in the RV. Also, a hotel
brings the added joy of a good hot shower
We've both been out
way once
and a
before.
full-size
bed.
Ned drove
across the
country with his family following his graduation from Notre 1937. In 1950,
when I was
Cavanaugh,
drove as
I
We
president of the
Dame
in
executive vice president under Father John
far as
Aspen, Colorado, to take part in a
seminar with Mortimer Adler and Jacques Barzun on William James's Pragmatism. Father Cavanaugh thought the seminar might be enliv-
ened by having participate.
It
five
of us young priests, mainly theologians,
come
to
at least to drive from Notre
Dame
to
gave us a chance
TRAVELS WITH TED Aspen, when trips
it
was
just
being
bom
NED
&
Those two
as a cultural center.
were the only basis of comparison we have for
We're
this one.
agreed that these interstate highways are infinitely better than what
we drove on back
We
then.
have a good friend and classmate in Sioux
Monsignor
Falls,
Frank Sampson, a retired major general in the paratroopers and former
Chief of Chaplains
for the
very effectively as
my
detachments
at
Army. Until
special adviser
quite recently he was serving
and chaplain
Notre Dame, but now he, too,
Dame. Frank picked us up
at
is
retired
4:30 this afternoon.
house for a drink and then, with a friend of
McEneaney,
to the Elks
Club
for the
We
and Rotary because that
is
where they meet the
a bit different than the University in
New
least
Club
his
Father John
his.
towns
it's
like the Elks
local citizens. That's
in Chicago, the
Century Club
York City, or the Metropolitan or Cosmos in Washington. At
A
twenty people visited our table while we were there.
Dame alumnus who was dinner, but
someone
found out whether
who
from Notre
went to
for dinner. In these smallish
advantageous for the priests to belong to organizations
ROTC
it
Notre
dining at another table wanted to pay for our
else
had already picked up the
was a friend of the two local
tab.
We
priests or
never
someone
recognized us from Notre Dame.
After dinner,
we did
a quick tour of the city.
St.
Joseph's
Cathedral, done in Indiana limestone, overlooks the whole area from a commanding hill. We also saw the falls that give the place its name. They are on the Big Sioux River and stretch out with smaller and smaller waterfalls for a mile or two. The Sioux called it the Winding River because it takes a big S-tum before flowing into the Missouri. After the tour, we visited Father Mac's parish, Christ the King. At the entrance it has a marvelous stained-glass window that was designed by the Notre Dame art department's Bob Leader. As the day came to a close, 1 thought back to when I was praying the Breviary today. 1 thought about how life, the transit from time to eternity, is so often referred to as a journey. As we live, we are constantly getting new insights, surmounting new difficulties, suffering some defeats, and rejoicing in a few victories as the journey continues and we work our way toward God and eternity. One has to
develop a capacity for enjoying surprises, facing
growing in a
lot of little ways,
new
challenges,
and not being discouraged
8
if
some
THEODORE
Anyway,
things aren't always perfect.
and
start retirement,
By that
mean
1
guess
we turned
Just before
had a
I
the way
all
HESBURGH
M.
we don't
home in,
this
an interesting way to
is
get
home.
Frank Sampson called to say that
from Notre Dame. The news was
call
we
really retire until
to heaven. I'd
Mike
Father
sad.
McCafferty, a wonderful young priest and an outstanding professor in
Law School, had
the
died that day.
He
will
be sorely missed.
May he
rest in peace.
SUNDAY, JUNE Sioux
e were
up
at 6:30
A.M. and began a Requiem Mass for Father
Mike McCafferty about seven young and promising Trinity Sunday,
I
14
South Dakota
Fails,
o'clock.
priest filled us
also said a
The thought
few words on the Trinity.
mystery, but one runs out of words very quickly
God
about
on
many
thought
my
surprise
Ned had done I
and
relief,
At
in the driver's seat.
all
a central
my
best,
Dame
the driving. This morning,
found out whether or not
I
could drive this
discovered,
much
that the rig didn't present
much more
difficulty
of Sioux Falls
interstate,
2 P.M.
and soon
I
we reached the Badlands National Park
in the western part of the state
and called
it
a day.
The odometer
really
is
halves by the Missouri River.
give
way
barley,
The
com
belt.
two
states,
Much
divided into nearly equal
of the eastern half
In the western half, the
to rolling hills, grazing land,
and other
river
Falls
over 1,000 since leaving South Bend.
South Dakota
tion of the
to
was quite comfortable
showed that we had traveled about 300 miles since leaving Sioux little
I
I
As we headed out
than driving a car on the
and a
was
years ago.
was high time
it
did
I
it
theologizing
a religion textbook I'd written for Notre
Until today,
contraption.
It's
when
the Father, Son, and Holy Spirit. But
relying heavily
students
of losing such a
both with sadness. Since
grains.
We
and
flat
is
a continua-
land and the
fields
of
com
durum wheat,
crossed the Missouri at Chamberlain.
was the natural highway into
this region
There were ancient Indian
when
it
was
first
opened by
fur trappers.
nally, but
around the middle of the eighteenth century, the Sioux
tribes here origi-
a
TRAVELS WITH TED took over. Ultimately, they were done
in, as
NED
&
were the buffalo, by the
railroads, the hide hunters, fur traders, cattlemen,
and farmers. These
changes led to a number of very unhappy events, such at
Wounded Knee and
Horn.
A
whole culture was fundamentally changed, and the face of
the land changed with
it.
There was plenty of daylight so
massacre
as the
Custer's disastrous defeat at the Little Big
we unhitched the Chevy
left
for the
when we reached
first
the Badlands,
—
home
time since leaving
task that turned out to be, happily, far less daunting than
anticipated
—and
unlike any place
took a drive around.
we had
we had
The Badlands proved to be A guidebook we bought
ever seen before.
provided this description: "Out of the rolling Dakota prairie, rain and
wind and
frost
have carved steep canyons, sharp ridges,
and knobs, providing
a glimpse into the relentless pace of geological
change, for not only has erosion created a
down
bared rocks laid
gullies, spires
new
landscape,
it
has also
sediment during the Oligocene Epoch
as
between 23 and 37 million years ago, revealing the record of the past to us."
The Badlands were once covered by a there was an upthrust of earth and much
salt sea.
After
it
dried up,
flow of waters from rivers
running eastward from the Rockies. These waters washed out the sea sediment that had formed the bottom of the ocean here. At the beginning of the Oligocene the land was a broad marshy plain crossed
by sluggish streams. The Badlands are also a giant boneyard of prehistoric animals, including the
prairie. In
few
brontosaurus. Today this
surrounded by a verdant
the previous century, 60 million buffalo grazed here, and a
The Badlands
got their
name from
literal translation
the early pioneers contained in
is
do.
still
Macosica, the
had
mammoth
phenomenon
250,000-acre geological
making
their
way
the Indians.
of which
many
is
They
called
references to the difficulty they
across the region. So, at least
Badlands were concerned,
them
Land Bad. Accounts of
Indians and whites were
in
where the complete
agreement.
We a scotch,
are
now
sitting
here in our Lindy enjoying
and the anticipation of
a quiet dinner.
outdoor movie about the Badlands. restaurant: Retirement
is
not
all
An
Then
aside before
that bad, but
10
air
I
conditioning,
we'll attend
we head
an
for the
hate the term "golden
THEODORE when we
age." However,
we found out pass to
my
all
that
one
if
HESBURGH
M.
arrived at this, the is
first
of our national parks,
over sixty-five, he or she qualifies for a free
As soon as and Ned and
of the national parks in America.
aversion to "golden age" disappeared,
I
learned this,
I
immediately
applied for and received our free passes.
We
ate tonight at the park restaurant
Indian waitresses.
Then we
—Indian
listened to a lecture
tacos, served
by
which we thought
would be on geology but turned out to be an account of various grasses
on the
prairies.
grass, there
We
now
is
learned that in addition to the native buffalo a Russian grass,
and even golden clover which
blankets the hills in yellow. This was not Ned's idea of a good show,
but
we
we
called
sympathy to the parents and
sisters
did learn a few things. Before retiring for the night,
back to Notre of Father
Dame
to send our
Mike McCafferty.
MONDAY, JUNE
15
Badlands hiational Park, South Dakota
\^ p
at seven
and
breakfast in the RV,
off to a lazy start this
we planned
our housekeeping chores.
We
morning. After Mass and
the day's activities, then plunged into
filled
our fresh water tank, reattached
the Chevy, emptied our waste water, paid our
bill,
and were on the
road by eleven. About three this afternoon, having finished the Breviary for the day,
we reached the Black
Hills of
highest range of mountains east of the Rockies.
Mount
South Dakota, the
The
tallest
peak
is
Harney, at 7,242 feet, the highest spot in the state. But the
best-known mountain here heads of Washington,
is
Mount Rushmore, where
the famous
Jefferson, Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt
have been carved out of the face of the mountain. They are a spectacular sight, pictures.
We
no matter how often you may have seen them
in
learned that the project was authorized by the federal
government and begun by Gutzon Borglum, the son of Norwegian immigrants, in 1927, the same year that Lindburgh flew across the Atlantic.
The head
of Washington was dedicated in 1930. Next
came
Jefferson in 1936, then Lincoln in 1937, and finally Teddy Roosevelt in 1939.
The Black
Hills are so
named because
11
they are covered with dark
TRAVELS WITH TED pine
and the
trees,
crests of the
NED
&
are characterized by large
hills
Among
upthrusts of pink granite in various shapes.
the most spectac-
ular formations are the Needles. These granitelike spires thrust upward
much
like the
ever since in
Rome.
1
Dolomites in northern
Italy.
I
have loved the Dolomites
spent a vacation there in 1938 after
my
first
year of study
have never seen anything resemble them so closely as the
1
Needles here in the Black Hills National Forest and adjacent Custer State Park.
We
then viewed the illuminated Mount
ate out that night,
Rushmore around 9:30 P.M. We have to get off reasonably early in the morning, because we have a fairly long run from here to Cheyenne,
Wyoming,
It may not sound Chevy and these
well over 300 miles away.
—
—
like very
much,
mountain roads, it's a good day's drive. It's very cool here in this wooded park, the kind of weather that makes sleep come easily. So we take but with our 49-foot
rig
plus the
twisting
advantage of that.
TUESDAY, JUNE
16
Black Hills National Forest, South Dakota
e left our
Mount Rushmore campsite about
was a beautiful sunny day, with
a
8:15 A.M. Again,
it
perfect blue sky flecked with
They contrasted nicely with the towering pine-clad hills, most of them capped with stone palisades. For the first hour or so en route to the Wyoming border, we drove the narrowest, hilliest roads we had yet seen. The omnipresent pines grew practically down to the roadside. As we crossed into Wyoming, the land began to change right away. The hills flattened out to rolling prairies that stretched all the
wonderful, pure white cumulus clouds.
way to
to
Cheyenne, the
spend the night.
state capital
We
rolled along.
The
then the grass-covered rolling
hills
sandwiches
as
went through cattle,
ming its
we in
Outer Mongolia
but few people.
either.
We
and the place where we planned
didn't stop for lunch,
And
trees
summer.
there aren't
made
became fewer and fewer and
reminded
last
but rather
me
We
of the country
we
saw large herds of
many people here
in
Wyo-
thought South Dakota was sparsely populated with
population of 690,000, but
Wyoming
12
has only 450,000.
The
lowest
THEODORE spot in the state
the
RV
over 3,000 feet high.
is
on the
strained
hills
highways through the
capitol at
noticed the altitude as at times to
We
traveling.
40 miles an
drove on single-lane
South Dakota and into the
rest of
Wyoming, then took
rather modest, but
is
We
and dropped back
hour from the 60 we had been
miles or so of
HESBURGH
M.
it
has a gold
dome
quite similar to ours
Notre Dame. Though somewhat smaller, the dome made us
We
home.
right at
will
check in
100
first
Cheyenne. The
Interstate 25 into
feel
Holiday Inn here, have a quiet
at a
dinner, and start off early in the morning for Vail, Colorado, where we'll stay at
my
brother Jim's condominium.
By now we've learned go
all
day at 60 or 65 miles per hour. But
—
climbing mountains the other hand,
it
is
We know
a few things about the RV.
at least
not
fully
it is
definitely
it
can
not made for
loaded and pulling a car.
On
a marvelously versatile machine with almost
everything one could possibly need and a few more things besides.
Each day with
it.
it
becomes more comfortable
And
we
as
and we
for us,
get better at driving
it,
are
more
at ease
our gas mileage improves.
WEDNESDAY, JUNE
17
Cheyenne, Wyoming
Jb,verything
has been going so well so
encounter a bad day. This one was
it.
We
far,
we were bound
left
the Holiday Inn in
to
Cheyenne around nine in the morning, gassed up a block away, and headed out on Interstate 25 to Denver. We were through Denver in a breeze, connecting with Interstate 70, which runs straight out to Vail. About twenty miles out of Denver on that first long climb up to Idaho Springs, we were laboring along at about 25 miles an hour when suddenly, pow! us. off.
It
sounded
like a giant firecracker
had gone
off beneath
The engine stopped. The power brakes and power steering went Luckily, we had enough forward speed to pull over and get out of
the way of the three lanes of just barely.
No
traffic
sooner had we made
climbing that it
hill
to the shoulder
—but
behind us
than we simply
Now what to do? We had discussed the wisdom in Chevy behind us, but now it became our lifeboat. As shot by, we unhooked it from the wounded RV. Then Ned
stopped rolling. dragging that the
traffic
drove
it
uphill to the nearest cutoff,
13
where he dialed the
AAA
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&.
number. But nothing happened. The 800 numbers we had with us were good only in lUinois and Indiana. And Ned had left his glasses back in the RV, so he couldn't check the phone book
AAA in
for the
Colorado. stayed with the RV, and decided to
I
make
the best of the wait.
I
Ann
got a cold beer and a couple of chocolate chip cookies that
Sexton, the wife of our vice president for university relations, had given us as
we
departed.
Parkman's Oregon
Trail
sunny spot
a nice,
I
Then
I
grabbed one of our folding chairs and
and walked up the
sat
down with
hillside a bit.
When
I
found
the beer and the chocolate chip
cookies and started reading. Pretty soon
Ned was back
for his glasses.
On
the phone he managed to reach George Grimes,
RV
his
who
second
trip to
heads Skyline's
Division back in Elkhart, Indiana. George had several things to
check on. As he received each piece of information, he called Ned,
who was still standing in the phone booth. After a few told Ned that he had arranged for a tow truck to come Mountain States Ford Truck Agency could have broken
down many
in Denver.
later,
downward
slopes
We
hills in
the West.
It's
if
we'd broken
of the Eisenhower
six miles
long and
With no power brakes or steering, trouble. The Lord must have been looking
at seven degrees.
we could have been out for
were lucky.
And
we would have been coming out
Tunnel on one of the worst
out from the
miles from the nearest help, but the
truck agency was only twenty-five miles away.
down an hour
We
George
calls,
in real
us.
We
followed the tow truck back to Denver in the Chevy.
When
arrived at the agency, the luck of the Irish was with us again.
The
general manager was Pete O'Meara, whose father and uncle
had
we
graduated from Notre Dame. Also, the garage was open until 9:30 P.M.
If
the problem wasn't serious
we could be out
of there before
closing time.
While they were unhitching the supper, shrimp
P.M.
The
cables,
and
catfish.
We
RV we went off and had
verdict was a lot better than
one
positive
to our generator
it
might have been. Two main
and one negative, going from our
(which
is
an early
arrived back at the agency about 5:30
auxiliary battery
alongside the back door of the
RV) had
been strung on the underside of the body too close to the exhaust pipe.
The exhaust had completely melted
14
the insulation and burned
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
through the clip that was holding the cable to the body.
two wires met, we had a monumental short, which,
When
the
burned
in turn,
out the cutoff circuit on our main ignition wire, thereby causing a total electrical blackout.
Replacing the main ignition wire was simple
enough, but we had to remove both main cables between the battery
and the generator (each was about eight
feet long)
and realign them
along a different route on the other side of the van away from the exhaust.
Then we
put extra insulation on
them and
strung
through another heavily insulated tube. Everybody pitched ing the two of us whenever possible.
mechanics with the the
first
time in a long time,
fingernails.
many
I
when
changed the
oil.
to
me since worked I
For
my
in a gas station
was in high school.
I
By 9:30 P.M. we were broken down
I
finished the day with grease under
That hasn't happened
years ago
includ-
in,
In addition to helping the
Ned and
electrical work,
them
rolling again along
Route 70 where we had
ten and a half hours ago. Having spent several hours
just
reworking the entrails of our machine, a veritable ganglia of wires, we felt
much more
interstates,
is
at
home with
it
now. Interstate 70,
like all of these
a marvelous road, a real feat of engineering as
through the mountains.
Once
again
we found
passes
it
ourselves traveling only
25 miles an hour, but we didn't worry, because we had
now
figured
We keep it in drive until we get down to 30 miles an we put it in second gear. If that gear drops below 15 miles an hour, we put it in low. Actually, because the night was cool, and not sizzling warm like this morning, we never dropped below 20 miles an hour, although we climbed to 11,000 feet to enter the Eisenhower Tunnel and then down to 5,000 and up to 11,000 again coming into out the gears. hour, then
Vail through the Vail Pass. Vail itself
is
about 8,600 feet above sea
level.
Ned drove
the night shift because his eyes are better at night
than mine, and,
if it
about 2:30 A.M.
when we came
must be admitted,
and, miracle of miracles,
out of the pass at Vail.
van lengthwise
brother's condo, parked the it,
he's a better driver too.
1
compartment of my shaving
We
It
found
in the parking lot
was
my
behind
found the key to the condo in the secret kit.
We
stretched out, heaved a sigh of
relief,
and had ourselves a nightcap. Thus ended our
road.
With an
extra day here,
we'll
first
week on the
redo our luggage,
buy our
groceries, reorder the packing (we have about thirty different
15
com-
TRAVELS WITH TED RV
partments in the
to stash things away)
moving on. The odometer miles. In addition, we've done
RV
in the
we've
traveled fairly close to
Up
till
now,
it's
appointments; our
really
first
,
NED
&.
and generally relax before
shows that we've traveled 1,655
a couple of
hundred
in the
Chevy, so
2,000 miles for the week.
been a week of
firsts:
no
serious business
experience of shopping for groceries (over
$100 worth); our driving the RV; getting towed through Denver working several hours with the mechanics; using public showers
traffic;
in the campsites; fixing about half our meals;
washrooms
in the
cooking with the microwave; seeing wild buffalo; running into Notre
Dame
connections almost every day; and, best of
all,
every day
enjoying sunshine, wonderful scenery, leisure, and the carefree spirit of settling into a completely
new
routine and
are gradually arranging our separate duties
way of living. Ned and and collaborating
as
I
we
have in a variety of tasks during the past thirty-five years. At 3:15 A.M., we decided to close out the week and turn
THURSDAY, JUNE
18
Colorado
Vail,
e slept for
in.
more than nine hours, awakening
day, with a marvelous view of the ski runs
to another sunny
down
the mountain.
Skipping breakfast, except for a glass of orange juice and a spot of coffee,
we unhitched the Chevy and the Kaddy Kar
up the van to put outward, so
As to
Ned.
I've
I
we could park
had
We
in a less obtrusive spot.
it
it
so
we could back
parking lot bulged
facing out.
visited here before,
had lunch
The
at a little
I
spent most of the day showing Vail
outdoor cafe facing the chapel where
had Holy Week and Christmas
services with
my
brother.
It's
an
interdenominational chapel shared by the Lutherans, Episcopalians, Presbyterians,
Methodists, Christian Scientists,
beautiful
building,
little
it fits
Vail like a glove.
about the streets on foot, which I
had
my camera
fixed.
batteries in wrong.
magazine for
We
me and
No
is
and Catholics.
We
A
then wandered
the only way you can wander here.
big deal, since
bought a
USA
I
had managed
Today for
then drove the length of
16
to put the
Ned and
Vail,
which
a
Time
stretches
THEODORE out for about
HESBURGH
M.
miles from East Vail to West Vail, with the longest
five
end
golf course in the world, simple fairways,
to end.
named after Gerald Ford, who lives Beaver Creek. the road at Next we ran the Chevy through a car up wash, something it desperately needed. Later in the afternoon, we Everything here seems to be
drove up one of the lateral valleys here for about twenty miles to a
piney lake where we walked a couple of miles to limber up our After
all
that time in the
P.M.
we went back
out.
1
RV we
really
we
and picked one
We
grilled tuna.
legs.
About 8
haven't had a
Notre Dame, except, of course, an occasional
left
chocolate chip cookie.
We
have those in abundance because in
addition to the three sacks that big tin from Joyce
exercise.
to Vail, scouted the restaurants,
had osso buco and Ned had
dessert since
needed the
Ann Sexton gave
us,
we have another
Hank.
Our horarium
is
gradually changing. For years, I've been turning
in at about 3 a.m., but ever since
we
started this trip, we've
been
going to bed between 11 and 12 p.m. and getting up seven or eight hours
later,
both sleeping soundly
van or
in the
in the Holiday Inns
and, curiously, waking up almost every morning within a few minutes of each other. finish
Ned
turned in a bit earlier tonight and
Time magazine. This was the
first
news
FRIDAY, JUNE Vail,
JL oday was another
I've
had
stayed up to
I
in a week.
19
Colorado
relatively quiet day.
I
caught up on the diary,
and Ned put some order into our accounts, checked the maps, and pulled out
some correspondence with
see along the way.
that Francis
I
a couple of people
we hope
to
thought back to our RV's breakdown and realized
Parkman had
his
own problems
as
he moved
this way.
His
horse kept running away at night, and that really put a crimp in his transportation too.
Old
or
modem,
the problems seem to be the
We had a simple lunch of soup town today and then went up 10,500 feet on the mountain in the gondola. Another "golden age" surprise. While the normal fee would same, although in different versions. in
have been $16, we went for free since we're over seventy. This business of being over seventy
is
looking better
17
all
the time.
TRAVELS WITH TED Tonight was
my
turn to cook, so
three poached eggs on top of each
both Ned's plate and mine, a bit of a
I
I
made corned beef hash with
plate.
guess
it
Since
disappeared from
it all
must have been O.K. But
problem with the frying pan afterward because
and
find a scouring pad. Live
learn.
reveille.
weekly Friday
call to
Helen Hosinski,
humid
has been very hot and
RV
my
behind.
And
when making our
a nice cool night here, although
It's
had
I
couldn't
We've packed our
Chevy, leaving our
duffels for a four-day trip in the
1
We're turning in early tonight
because tomorrow will bring a 6 A.M.
so to bed.
NED
&.
secretary,
we learned
first
that
it
South Bend, but then, who ever
in
defended South Bend weather?
SATURDAY, JUNE Vail,
^\^p in the
We
at
20
Colorado
6 A.M., Mass at 6:30, then orange juice and coffee and off
Chevy. Splendid
whole
life,
although
world.
The
first
I've
Springs.
so to
Grand
From
lives,
there
A
down
for
its
we followed the road that
spectacular canyon, stopping from
time to time to watch the tourists go by in their rubber
it
today,
Glen-
river into
another 100 miles or
few miles beyond that, we entered Utah.
parallels the Colorado River and
followed
my
the Vail Valley past the
then along a roaring
we continued on
Instead of taking the best road to Moab,
to believe that this river,
today.
seen a good deal of scenery around the
I've
Junction.
we saw
never seen more dramatic scenery in
part of our trip was
place where Gerald Ford
wood
too mild a word for the sights
is
drove 400 miles and
which was
a
rafts. It's
hundred yards or so wide
hard as
we
was capable of creating the Grand Canyon in
Arizona.
We
left
the river to head south a few miles at Moab, which was a
town founded by Mormons back founders, but they
left
in the 1840s.
when two
of their
There were four
earlier
number were massacred by
the Indians. Today just happened to be the 50th anniversary of Moab.
As we were finishing lunch here, we saw the anniversary parade as it proceeded down the main street. It consisted of people in Western costume riding horses. Model the
rest.
We
T
watched the parade
Fords, the for a
18
fire
department, and
all
few minutes, then started off to
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
Arches National Park, which has within arches ranging in
One
more than two hundred
from a one-foot opening to a span of 291
size
main road north out of Moab
enters the park from the
Colorado River.
it
about a forty-mile round
It's
feet.
across the
with the road
trip,
climbing up to the tops of the mountains, at their highest over 6,000 feet.
There
arches
are a lot of side roads leading to different formations of
—eroded stone
in about as
many
sizes,
shapes, and forms as
one
could possibly imagine. Besides the arches there are palisades and
mesas and buttes, canyons, and balanced rocks. They were formed
when
over 100 million years ago,
As
place.
I've
world was a
mentioned
salt
thousand feet of
ocean. salt,
erosion of this red sandstone took
before, originally, all of this part of the
When
the ocean dried up,
which makes a very poor
left
it
On
base.
sandstone rocks were formed from the sand foundation.
several
top of
it,
With wind,
temperature change, and water, the softer stone began to erode.
Thanks
to this process,
we have
these marvelous formations to admire
today.
TTie sea that covered the region goes back 300 million years, but
the erosion of the current sandstone was about 100 million years in the making. Today, this country would be classified as high desert.
It's
quite barren, mainly pinyon and juniper forest, along with tumbleweed and other sorts of desert bushes. For the past century, it's been ranching and range land. One fact I find curious is that the federal
government owns about 70 percent of the land here and, of course, all of the national parks. The state owns about another 20 percent. The Ute Indians, after whom Utah was named, own about 6 percent. The roughly 5 or 6 percent that is left is owned by private individuals. From Arches National Park, we moved on a few miles south into
Canyonlands National
Park.
To get there, one has to
Horse State Park. The park
is
so
traverse
immense that there
entrances, one from the south, one from the west, and the
entered from the east.
The
center of the park
is
a
canyon
Dead
are three
as
one we deep
as
Grand Canyon, but ten times wider. There is really a canyon within a canyon here. From our lookout, we could see the confluence of the Colorado and Green rivers. Each of those rivers has formed its the
own canyon several hundred feet deep. The land is indescribably rugged and trails
or packhorses.
We
tried to arrange
19
negotiable only by jeep
an airplane
flight
over the
TRAVELS WITH TED whole Canyonlands Park because
it
NED
&.
can best be seen from the
We
even though the lookouts are over 6,000 feet high.
air,
failed to get
an airplane because of the wind conditions over the canyon. Pilots, seeing these conditions, had quit for the day. However, when Ned was
making
inquiries,
he was told about a wonderful boat
which we
trip,
took tonight after dinner. Just beyond the bridge that leads into
Moab, we joined seventy other people on long and twelve feet wide.
a boat about forty-five feet
The people were
seated eight abreast and
about nine rows deep. sound-and-light show that accompanied the ride was one of
The
the most spectacular
I'd
ever seen. First,
we went up the
river for
As soon as it we turned around and came down the river. Accompaon the road we had traversed this morning along the
about an hour in the gathering twilight and dusk.
became nying
dark,
us,
was a truck with a generator and three high-powered
riverside,
searchlights. For the better part of ten miles or so,
we
slowly drifted
with the current while searchlights from the truck played on the fantastic stone walls. difficult to describe
It's
the effect as the lights roamed the 500-
or 600-foot palisades, revealing their colors and textures so dramatically.
The
text
began with Genesis,
through the history of since the
first
humans
"let there
this land, geologically
arrived here from Asia
be light," and went on
and anthropologically,
some 12,000
years ago.
All of this was accompanied by beautiful music, some of
it
Mormon
experience
was
Tabernacle Choir in Salt Lake City.
The whole
from the
truly exhilarating.
Thanks Inn.
to a lucky break
we
room
in the
Ramada
a rodeo
and a
softball
got the last
In addition to several conventions,
tournament were going on, but someone canceled out and we got the room.
It
enough
was 95 degrees here
to
this
afternoon and tonight
wear a sweater or a jacket on the boat. The
it
was chilly
final reflection
of the day: Too bad more Americans can't see the variegated beauty of this wonderful country.
It
took both of us seventy years to see this
comer of Utah, and we still haven't seen the southwest beauty of Bryce and Zion, which we hope to visit later on. southeast
20
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
SUNDAY, JUNE
21
Moab, Utah
woke
e
at 7:30
A.M. to another beautiful day. Standing on the
balcony outside our second-floor room,
I
could see a brown palisade
of rugged rock several hundred feet high and, above that, a flawless
blue sky and, below, some wonderfully big and
fluffy
cottonwood
Off in a comer was the inevitable Pizza Hut. Ned presided
trees.
Mass
morning. After the Gospel, we both
this
and meditated on
it.
As
the trip has progressed,
give homilies as long as or longer than mine.
at
down for a while Ned has begun to
sat
a great
It's
way
to start
the day.
Our
driving today took us almost 300 miles.
First,
we headed
south to Monticello, Utah, and then east past Cortez, Colorado, to
Mesa Verde. The land
flattened out as
we
drove, but to the east
we
could see the snowcapped mountains of Purgatory, in Colorado, where
we
will
be tonight. Shortly after leaving Cortez, we turned into the
Mesa Verde National at the guesthouse,
We
Park.
climbed to about 8,000
and then began our explorations
feet,
had lunch
for the day.
The
mesa, really a flat-topped mountain, extends about twenty or thirty miles.
It is
Canyon and an
intersected in the middle by Cliff
of this called Fewkes Canyon.
On
whole
and on the west
series of cliff dwellings
human
early
offshoot
the east side of this canyon are a side,
a profusion of
settlements going back to the time of Christ. This
is
probably the only national park given over to anthropological, rather
than natural, phenomena.
We cliff
did the east side of
dwellers
Mesa Verde
had inhabited, we had
first.
to go
To get
down
to the place the
over the
cliffside,
negotiating a series of ladders, paths, and tunnels along with endless natural stairs that had been
major
cliff
National Geographic articles
cowboys
in
hewn out
dwellings. Cliff Palace
1888 and
is
is
of the rock. There are two
the classic village one sees in the
on Mesa Verde.
the largest
cliff
It
was discovered by
dwelling in North America.
It
contains 217 rooms and 23 kivas, which are community rooms for
ceremonial purposes.
The
people
who
lived in
Mesa Verde
are called
the Anasazi, a Navajo Indian word meaning "the ancient ones" or
came to this part of the world they moved into the cliff alcoves around
"ancient foreigners." While they
around the time of Christ,
21
TRAVELS WITH TED 500 A.D. and into the one
Cliff Palace
hole in the ground with a
bit of
1300, most of the Anasazi had
Most of them moved south and
mixed with the other
The
wood
formed by a
pit houses,
roofing erected above
area for reasons
left this
east into the
it.
By
unknown.
Rio Grande Valley and
tribes there.
other large dwelling
was Balcony House.
around 1200. Across the canyon,
which were
sees their earlier housing,
NED
&.
we
on the
visited
down
Just getting
east side of the
there was quite a feat, and
getting up was an even greater challenge, since series of ladders, tunnels,
and
west side oi the canyon, where
canyon
We
stairways.
we saw the
it
involved a rigorous
then moved over to the
earliest
and most primitive
of the dwellings that the Anasazi occupied and where they began their slow but steady progression as a civilization.
As
basket making to clay pots they became
and their pots grew
more
artists
they
moved from
beautiful as the generations passed.
They also progressed from hunters and gatherers to farmers who knew how to grow com, beans, and squash. Then, after thirteen centuries here, they passed into oblivion. Perhaps as their
grew they outstripped the land's
ability to
numbers
provide for their needs, or
perhaps their numbers required a political organization that simply
was not needed in the In any event, they
when
they were organized in clans.
moved out en masse and
There may be
time.
earlier days
lost their identity for all
a lesson in all of this for our generation,
which
squandering natural resources and really has no other place to to
beyond our planet.
As
we drove on to EXirango and then north now ensconced in a condominium belong-
the sun was setting,
to Purgatory,
ing to Joe
where we
are
and Jan O'Neill, who
Dame alumnus who, is
is
move
trying to
make
live in
Midland, Texas.
Joe's a
with Vince Duncan, another Notre
Dame
Notre grad,
the ski runs here at Purgatory equal to those at Vail
and Aspen.
22
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
MONDAY, JUNE
22
Purgatory, Colorado
A,
Jter fixing our breakfast,
at the ski runs in this resort.
we went up on the ski lift to get a look The top of the run is 10,000 feet above
sea level and, of course, the scene was spectacular. After
down, we were
on another
off
A
like Dickens's
Two
Tale of
coming
The story of this day is now we are telling the tale
day's adventure.
except
Cities,
of two old mining towns, Silverton and Ouray. Both are north of here,
and
to get to them,
high.
The
pass
on the way
spectacular scenery tains,
even though
Silverton
is
it's
We
called Molas
Lake
much snow on
Pass,
the
with
moun-
late June.
make
through the mountains.
it
seems
like three
the twisting and turning roads and the
all
in
left
America
from Durango.
arrive
"There's a ton of
about: it."
We also found a St.
When
From
again over 11,000 feet high, It
It
the forty-five-mile run, a spectacular passage Patrick's Catholic
Church
you wonder about the name Silverton, here's how
came
mining town.
is
arrived in Silverton in time to see the only narrow-
takes three hours to
purportedly
to Silverton
about thirty miles from here, but
gauge steam-engine train
in Silverton. If
to go over a pass about 11,000 feet
the way and with
all
times as long because of
high climbs.
one has
they
first
found
silver here,
it
they said,
we went over Red Mountain Pass, and into Ouray, which is another classic
there,
— 100
has a population of 700 persons
fewer than
Silverton.
found here in 1875. The most famous mine was mine of Tom Walsh. In a six-year period, from 1896 to 1902, the mine produced what at the time toted up to $24 million worth of gold and silver. Walsh bought his wife the Hope diamond. Silver
the
Camp
was
first
Bird
His daughter, Evelyn Walsh McLean, became a society queen in
Washington, D.C. All
told,
these two towns turned out about a
quarter of a billion dollars in gold and silver during the heyday of
mining
early in the century.
One
major problem the miners con-
fronted was that they couldn't get over the mountains between Ouray
(named
Then across
after a
Ute Indian
chief)
and Silverton, except by mule
along came Colorado pioneer Otto Meats,
Red Mountain
Pass. It cost
who
train.
built a toll road
$10,000 a mile and was called the
Million Dollar Road because Mears used the tailings from the gold
23
TRAVELS WITH TED and
silver
mines in Ouray
The road we
as ballast for the road.
over today was constructed
on
his
NED
&
roadbed and
is
passed
a magnificent feat of
engineering.
After lunch in Ouray, we went out north of the town to the Bachelor-Syracuse mine.
a miner.
donkey
to the
railroad took us '3,200 feet
mine
It
shaft.
There we saw the
We
and gold that was being worked.
miner about how they go about
real
He convinced me is
little
mountain
into the center of the actual vein of silver
from a
A
this business of
that the last thing in the world
was, however, a fascinating
also
I
mining.
would want to be
And
visit.
heard
went the
so
tale
of two old mining towns.
some of the best-known bad guys and other Wild West frequented these parts. Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid hung out in Moab and returned there after their biggest bank robbery. Local historians in Ouray say that at the Lest
forget,
1
characters of the
height of the mining industry here, the miners used to frequent Blair Street every Saturday night
the understatement
and they brought
about
it,
Dodge
City, to
and made the words "wide open" seem
of the year.
The citizenry decided
in Bat Masterson, the
to
do something
famed
sheriff of
tame the town.
TUESDAY, JUNE
23
Purgatory, Colorado
e were up at 6:30 A.M., concelebrated Mass,
road before eight.
one phrase could describe our 300-mile drive
If
from here to Pueblo, journey driving
it
is
into rolling
down through mountain sides. Out
wooded
all
horse country.
hills
We
"changing topography."
snowcapped mountains on both agriculture
and were on the
passes into
began the
Durango with
we soon came saw practically no
of Durango,
and meadowland.
We
day, except a bit of hay harvesting. This seems to be
We
even saw an Arabian horse farm
just outside
of
Durango. Off to the north as we traveled east across southern Colorado, were the Rockies. After Pagosa Springs,
one of the few towns
we passed on the road we traveled today, the Rockies dipped down us and we went over a 10,000-foot pass at Wolf Creek. Most of these passes
are about five miles
24
up and
five
to
miles down.
THEODORE with gorgeous scenery on both topography.
We
HESBURGH
M. sides.
The
changed with the
trees also
began, of course, with ponderosa and ridgepole pines
and then came into the
drier country,
where cottonwoods came up
we got to New Mexico, the drier the landscape became. Trees gave way to great upthrusts of granite and sandstone and sparse forage. Navaho has been replaced by Spanish on the car radio, drums by guitars. 1 must say I along the rushing mountain streams.
The
closer
prefer the latter.
We
arrived in Pueblo around 3 P.M., got badly
showered, dressed up for the
needed haircuts,
Dame
time since leaving Notre
first
almost two weeks ago, and went out to dinner at the country club
with John and Barbara Walsh. John used to be academic vice president at
Notre Dame. He
an old friend of ours and a classmate of Ned's.
is
Both of us were very glad
to see
him
again.
WEDNESDAY, JUNE
24
Pnehlo, Colorado
1
ohn came over
for
Mass
A.M. and breakfast following.
at 7:30
We
then drove west to the new lake created by a reservoir on the Arkansas River outside of Pueblo. Believe
when we
got up, by 8:30
clear blue skies. to
How
it
it
or not, although
it
was a
bit
cloudy
was another bright and sunny day with
long can
we be
John and headed west again
to
so fortunate?
Canon
City,
We
said
goodbye
where there
Benedictine Abbey. Driving along, we could see Pikes Peak about
is
a
fifty
Canon City, we turned off to The Arkansas is one of the five
miles off to the north. Right outside of
Royal Gorge on the Arkansas River. longest rivers in America.
Its
headwaters are at Leadville, Colorado,
about 100 miles north of here.
It
flows through the
mountains and
then across the flatlands into the Mississippi. Eventually
end up in the Gulf of Mexico, about 1,400 miles away.
its
waters
We
took a
miniature train ride on Royal Gorge out to the edge of the gorge,
where we could see the the gorge at
its
largest suspension bridge in the world.
It
spans
narrowest point. Below, you can see the 1,200-foot-
deep canyon that the Arkansas River has carved down through the granite over millions of years.
After the train ride, which took about thirty minutes, we went
25
TRAVELS WITH TED across the gorge
and back
in a gondola.
It's
NED
&.
quite a feeling to swing
out over those 1,200 feet suspended only by a cable.
We
left
the gorge
around 12:30 P.M. and headed west again and then north along the Arkansas River through a whole
with low granite
series of gorges
hills,
spotted by mesquite brush and scrub trees and dotted with huge boulders.
It
was a beautiful
lunch, a sandwich and iced
We
ride.
stopped at Salida for a quick
and then quickly turned north again
tea,
toward Leadville. Just below Leadville, we cut off to Twin Lakes and over Independence Pass, which
snow around,
plus a horrendous
much
over 11,000 feet high with
is
wind coming over the top of the
However, climbing up to Independence Pass beautiful drives in the world. Driving
down
is
pass.
one of the most
the pass was long and not
quite so beautiful, as the road narrows and you have relatively
room between the left.
I
on the
solid rock walls
right
little
and the canyon on the
was glad that we were in the Chevy and not the RV.
We
arrived in
Aspen about
four o'clock.
One
of our Notre
Dame
alumni and a good friend of Father Ned, Nestor Weigand, had offered
Ned
his
headed
condo
here.
off to
visit
Beginning in 1950,
We
showered quickly, put on clean clothes, and
the I
Aspen
Institute
for
Humanistic Studies.
attended several summers here. That
first
one
was a discussion of William James's book Pragmatism, with Mortimer Adler and Jacques Barzun. That was the very beginning of the Aspen seminars, but
I
spent
many
other happy weeks in this delightful place,
mostly conducting seminars on the Great Books for business executives. I
vividly
remember one of those seminars. During
a break,
some
of us, including the Israeli ambassador to London, decided to take a raft trip
down
the Little Colorado River. In the course of the trip the
that the ambassador
raft
and
underwater boulder and we were
we made
it
I
were helping to paddle struck an hurled into the
all
river.
Fortunately,
out safely, and the ambassador jokingly accused
trying to baptize him.
He
the Jordan!" Tragically, however, a of us wasn't so lucky.
me
of
kept yelling, "Only in the Jordan! Only in
man
in a raft
some distance ahead
He drowned.
At the Aspen Institute we ran into Tom and Tanya Cronin. I'd teamed up on a seminar with Tom about ten years earlier. Currently he
is
write
a Distinguished Professor at
Colorado College and continues to
on the American presidency.
26
We
had
a drink out
on the
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
Cronins' veranda, caught up on old times, and had a great discussion
about a wide variety of intellectual subjects. the following day of
my
I
When
I
told
them
that
would be celebrating the forty-fourth anniversary
ordination to the priesthood, they offered their apartment for
the Mass and said they'd invite the
members of the current seminar
mark the occasion.
to help
THURSDAY, JUNE
25
Aspen, Colorado
woke up around
e
suddenly realized that we
my
have celebrated
half of
Mass,
whom
A.M. to another beautiful sunny day and
lost a
day somewhere along the
1
should
drove over to the Cronins' this morning to
About
twenty-five people
were Catholic and the
we had
line.
1
forty-fourth ordination anniversary yesterday in-
We
stead of today. celebrate Mass.
7
came
to the Mass, roughly
rest Protestant
breakfast with the group
and Jewish. After
and then joined them
seminar around 9:15 in the seminar room of the
Institute.
of the day was Machiavelli's The Prince, a book
I
for their
The
subject
had taught over
thirty-five years ago when 1 had led a seminar in jurisprudence in our Law School. Tom Cronin asked one of the members of the seminar,
Celio Franca of Brazil, to conduct the seminar with me.
It
was a
wonderful experience, as seminars always are here, and we went on until after 11:30.
a
We
then drove to town to pick up some sandwiches,
Time magazine, and a new
we changed
broke. Next
There are two
We
into
lateral valleys
drove to the end of the
miles,
ice
container to replace the one
some old clothes
first
for
we
an afternoon hike.
going out to the south from Aspen.
one, a distance of about ten or fifteen
and ate our picnic lunch beside a roaring stream. Then we
drove up the next one, which goes
all
the way to
Maroon Lake.
There, we climbed from about 9,000 to more than 11,000 feet up to Crater Lake. like
I
was on a
The ice.
It
We
lake
was a tough climb and there were times when
stress is
machine, but we made
filled
dirty
in about
felt
an hour.
with pure, cold water from melted snow and
slaked our thirst with
which were
it
I
it,
splashed some more in our faces,
and dripping with perspiration. Then we
the while admiring the
Maroon
Bells, three bell-shaped
27
rested, all
mountains
TRAVELS WITH TED that give the area
its
NED
&
name. The scenery, both going up and coming
down, was absolutely fabulous, particularly the wildflowers that grow in such variegated profusion here.
on we had dinner
Later
outdoor cafe, where we were
in a small
entertained by a group of young musicians from the Aspen Music Institute playing classical music.
day and
They
study and practice during the
at night break up into quartets to entertain the visitors.
FRIDAY, JUNE
26
Aspen, Colorado
Af
Jter Mass and a quick breakfast
ourselves with the
We
RV
and prepare
it
we were
for the
off to Vail to reunite
Utah
leg of our journey.
and
arrived before noon, picked up our laundry
things
several other
we needed, had an outdoor lunch of vealburgers at a German and made our weekly call back to Notre Dame to catch up
restaurant,
on the news with our secretaries, Helen and Pat. I know this must be getting monotonous, but today was another wonderfully sunny and bright day with the temperature ranging from the 70s to the high 80s.
back to
my
brother's
We
faced another problem
When we
condo and unlocked the RV.
the door, the step below the door didn't
We
only one thing: the battery was dead.
wouldn't start either. In
fact,
it
out.
opened
That could mean
tried the generator, but
didn't even turn over. Fortunately
found a good young mechanic on duty
Though he was anxious
come
when we came
to join his
at the Vail
teammates
Amoco
for a baseball
it
we
station.
game they
were playing in Eagle, he delayed his departure to find the cause of our trouble.
He
quickly discovered that
into the generator, so
soon had
it
he blew out the
we weren't
line,
enough
getting
gas
tightened the gasket, and
running again. While he was doing
this,
we had the
battery recharged.
Neither of us
felt like
going out for dinner tonight, so
cooked up some clam chowder, which was now, we've both
lost a little
all
university seems miles
The former
life
I
quickly
needed. By
really
Our
weight and we're happy about that.
hopes are to take off about ten pounds each on
The
we
this trip.
and miles away and, of course,
of hustle and bustle seems miles away too.
28
it is.
When
the
THEODORE mechanic
HESBURGH
M.
at the garage said today that
we simply
recharge our battery,
mail a letter and
it
would take
forty
minutes to
"No problem." Ned went
said,
off to
collected the second batch of laundry.
I
SATURDAY, JUNE Vail,
27
Colorado
on the road about 8 A.M. The RV odometer registered we left Vail. We chalked up 1,402 on the Chevy during week in our run about Utah and southern Colorado. Many of
e were
3,600 miles the past
as
those miles were driven in six national forests: San Juan, San Isabel,
Sangre de Cristo, White River, Uncompahgre, and the Rio Grande.
We
have about
Our
first
five
more coming up
in the next
week or
where we arrived
objective today was Richfield, Utah,
The
so.
Utah is a vast desert, looking very much like the landscape of the moon. There are large rock upthrusts of red sandstone and gray granite. They about 4 P.M.
trip
was
uneventful because central
fairly
stretch out as mesas in every direction from about
one
to five miles
long and about 2,000 feet high. All afternoon as we went across central Utah,
we were climbing about
eight miles to go over the pass
between the mesas and then down another eight miles. In the middle
Ned was
of the afternoon, while
we had our
catching a catnap and
I
was driving,
we were playing was Lena Home singing "Stormy Weather." That brought back ancient memories. I remember dancing to that tune while a senior in high school. I still remember the words. There were practically no cities on our route today. Grand first
rain of the trip. Purely by coincidence, the tape
Junction near the border of Colorado and Salina halfway across Utah
being the exceptions. at a
town
station for
called
We
Green
stopped in the middle of the desert for gas,
River.
The
proprietors said
100 miles in either direction.
We
it
was the only
saw practically no
agriculture along the
way and even the range land looked very poor,
much more than
scrub brush and an occasional stand of miniature
not
pines.
We
didn't see
many
animals, and since there were
no towns,
the only exits from Interstate 70 were ranch exits.
As we neared the edge grazing. Utah has about 1.4
of the desert,
we did
see our
million inhabitants, but
29
I
first
sheep
think most of
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&
them must live in and around Salt Lake City and Provo. About 4 P.M., as we neared Richfield, which is across the state to the west of Moab, where we were traveling this time last week, Ned came up with a great idea. Instead of staying here overnight,
and continue on in the Chevy
the gateway to Bryce and Zion national parks?
would be early
easier
morning
and more relaxing
start
on our
why not park
the van
another 111 miles to Cedar City,
for
in the
The
additional miles
Chevy, and we could get an
tour of the two parks.
So
what we
that's
did.
As we continued south, there were more trees and more rolling hills, but again no agriculture, except for a few alfalfa fields that were under irrigation. All day, every hour on the hour, we tried to get some news on the radio, but there simply was no news being broadcast in Utah. Fortunately we had plenty of tapes along. Today it was Johann Strauss's "Tales from the Vienna Woods" and Viennese waltzes. They reminded me of those fifteen years when 1 spent part of each September in Vienna
the
at
International
Atomic Energy
Agency. Around seven o'clock, we pulled into Cedar City, checked
and poured
into a Holiday Inn, showered for the second time today,
Someone once asked Graham Greene what was thing one could carry with him on his trips around the world.
ourselves scotches.
the best
One might
think he'd have said soap or penicillin or a raincoat, but
he said scotch.
1
tend to agree with him.
During dinner
at
peculiar drinking laws,
We
asked the waiter
He
said, "I can't sell
the motel,
we were introduced
which Greene wouldn't have cared
one
we might have some red wine with our
it
to
you here in the restaurant, but
got half a bottle of California Burgundy. for a glass
for
if
the front desk, you can buy a bottle there."
each $1.25
to Utah's
and another
are trying to discourage drinking,
fee to
which
30
I
went
is
bottle.
against the
you go to
to the desk
He then had
open the
if
bit.
beef.
and
to charge us I
guess they
Mormon creed.
— THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
SUNDAY, JUNE Cedar
City,
28
Utah
A.
.nother bright, sunny day. Yesterday
we
527 miles, today
traveled
416, giving us over 1,000 for the last two days. Leaving Cedar City, we went up through Cedar Canyon, which is a most beautiful drive. The canyon climbs very steeply through rugged rock walls studded
with juniper, the
tallest
I
have seen. As
it
and turns upward,
twists
gaining 10,000 feet in a matter of a few miles, you pass one glorious
Cedar City and Cedar Canyon
vista after another. Incidentally,
misnomers because the
trees
Mormons had them mixed trees, let
for
me
say that today
which Ned gave
one
up,
I
not cedars.
sees are junipers, guess. Before
are
The
leave the matter of
1
we went through Dixie National Forest, week we have added four more
a cheer. In the past
national forests to our
list:
Dixie,
Manti-La
Fishlake,
Sal,
and
Arapaho. Many more are yet to come. Bryce
Canyon reminded
foot mesa, but
it's
us of
Mesa Verde.
amphitheater eroded into the side of the mesa. I
mean about
ten miles long and about
course, smaller ones as well.
hundreds of feet
tall.
It's
not really a canyon. Rather,
five
The canyon
is
part of it's
When
1
an 8,000-
an enormous say
enormous,
miles wide. There are, of
filled
with stone monoliths
They resemble everything from the Turkish army sinking ship, to Thor's hammer. As with many
on the march, to a other places we have explored
so far in the West,
all
of this used to be
the bottom of a shallow sea with various layers of sediment laid
millennia after millennia.
and water
in the
What
we're seeing
form of streams,
rain, ice,
now
is
down
the work of time
and snow. The profusion
of forms and figures have been executed in a wide variety of colors
mostly brown, pink, white, and yellow. In the early morning sun, the shapes and colors are mesmerizing. Ebenezer Bryce, one of the earliest settlers, lived
here for
words,
hell of a place to lose a cow!"
"It's a
The
first
names. into
Canyon
One
In his immortal
high plateau we reached today, 10,000 feet up at the
top of Cedar Canyon,
Bryce
five years, trying to raise cattle.
is
is
The plateau that rises to They are both Paiute Indian
called Markagunt.
called Paunsaugunt.
also notices, along these plateaus
and up into the mesa
which Bryce Canyon has encroached, a continual change of trees
from junipers to blue spruce to ponderosa pine to white pine and
31
all
TRAVELS WITH TED varieties of
These
fir.
NED
&
are the tallest trees of their kind that
we have
seen so far and they add a certain grandeur to the whole area. color of the rocks contrasts dramatically with that of the trees.
and whites of the rocks are produced by iron
reds, yellows, purples,
and manganese oxides.
On
the way out of the park,
quick lunch and had
buffalo burgers.
beef hamburgers, but,
all
The
in
They
far.
are a
we stopped
little
the most spectacular
is
I'm running out of adjectives, so you will have to
excuse the overuse of "spectacular" and "unbelievable." This
canyon with sheer monoliths the park
is
a deep
canyon
between them. The centerpiece of all sorts
of seemingly religious
them were named by Frederick young Methodist minister who came here toward the
monumental
Vining Fisher, a
with
filled
a real
is
thousand feet in every
rising several
direction, leaving narrow confines
figures of
for a
tangier than
very tasty.
all,
entrance into Zion National Park
we've seen so
The The
end of the century.
size.
Some
Among
of
many
his
contributions are: the Great
White Throne, Angels Landing, the Organ, the
Pulpit,
and the Altar
of Sacrifice. All of the huge formations are the results of millions of years of
work by the Virgin River. Looking
at
them, one can't help
but feel undersized; some of these rocks are over 3,000 feet high, and the tallest of them, West Temple, soars to a height of 3,805 feet.
many
persons have experienced, from the Paiutes
to Fisher
and thousands of
sense to this place. Before the Paiutes, tribe,
the Anasazi,
who
I
The
lived here
truly a religious
members of the same Indian They left
much
should note that
,
just as their
Mesa we have
cousins in
of the information
regarding the parks comes from useful booklets they entrance.
is
inhabited Mesa Verde lived here.
very suddenly around the year 1300 A.D.
Verde had.
who once
latter-day visitors, there
As
hand out
parks are enormously well organized.
We
at
each
also used
extensively two books published by Reader's Digest: America from the
Road and Our National
Parks: America's Spectacular
Weeping Rock. Water plateau has seeped centuries,
resulting
drive
down through
the sandstone over the course of
reaching the slate strata slanting downward. Since the
water can't penetrate the
slate,
seeps through the sandstone cliff,
Wildemess Heritage.
we parked and climbed to from rain and snow on the top of the
At the end of the canyon
it
travels
on the
a veritable waterfall with
no
along the surface of
and
face of this several- thousand-foot
visible river.
32
it
"
THEODORE As we headed back and some RV.
to Richfield,
flashes of lightning.
campsite in Richfield.
We quickly
HESBURGH
M.
It
It
we encountered
several showers
was raining hard when we got to the
was good to get back to the comforts of the
transferred our gear from the
Chevy, then came happy
hour and a simple stew accompanied by coffee and some of Joyce Hank's cookies. Then, wonder of wonders bedder,
both
I
was in bed by
Ned
ten.
beat
me
by about
five
minutes.
We
slept about nine hours.
MONDAY, JUNE Richfield,
M,
.ass
papacy today, reading,
He
retirement. Paul
"poured out
Timothy
tells
like a libation,"
away. However, Paul
harm and bring him
It
on
is is
Timothy from the second
on the occasion of
that he (Paul) has lived a difficult
sure that the Lord will "keep
to his heavenly
life,
that far
him from
future
kingdom. this
morning.
toasted English muffins, and
cooking bacon in the microwave. Both
we drove
all
glad that thus far he has "finished the race and
performed two more culinary experiments
T)day,
and Paul and the
and that death cannot be
broke out our toaster and made
we
We
tried
successfiil!
where we met Jack Gallivan, the
to Park City,
publisher of the Salt Lake City Tribune. Jack his
was Ned's turn to be Peter
a certain relevance to us
kept the faith." Paul
We
gave a fine homily
as well as Paul's advice to
which has
29
Utah
of Saints Peter and Paul today.
principal celebrant.
and
A.M. go-to-
for this 3
is
a classmate of Ned's,
son Mickey also graduated from Notre Dame. Jack had invited
us to spend a couple of days
his
ranch and we had accepted. From
down
the road halfway to Park City and
on
the interstate exit he took us
forest that we hardly got through The ranch house can accommodate
then up through a beautiful aspen because the road was so narrow.
twenty guests.
It's
by Jack's wife, ours, is
nestled against the hills that rise up to a ridge about
We had cocktails and a wonderful dinner cooked Grace Mary. We talked about our trip, this country of
10,000 feet above
us.
and the interplay between Mormons and the
what the Mormons
days to relax after
all
call
everyone
else. It's
good
"gentiles,"
which
to have a couple of
of our traveling. We're at 8,000 feet and the air
33
TRAVELS WITH TED is
About ten
cool.
o'clock
I
felt
wiped out.
NED
& went
I
bed and
to
slept
ten hours.
TUESDAY, JUNE
30
Park City, Utah
A
number of the Gallivan clan gathered
Mass
for
this
morning.
Then Jack, Mickey, and Jim Ivers III from next door took Ned and me on a jeep tour of the backcountry. We went up a wild road through White Pine Valley behind the house and on up to the ridge leading to Scott Peak, just over 10,000 feet high. Our average speed was about three miles an hour as
we went up through the
These old mining roads were
forest to the tree line.
and used
built in the 1880s
until the
turn of the century to carry supplies up to the mines and bring the ore
down. Not only do they go up rocks and deep cuts
snow and
ice
on
at a steep grade but they also are full of
made by the rushing flow from the spring melt of At times we had to simply leave the road and woods and meadows off to the sides of the road.
top.
rumble through the
Jack and Jim, friends since childhood, roamed this mountain as thirteen-year-olds, staking out
many
of the mines that
we passed on
the way. There are over 1,000 miles of what they call "drifts," holes that the miners
punched
in the side of the
mountain
of ore. Near the top of a ridge, around 10,000 feet,
to find the veins
we came upon
a
marvelous area of wildflowers: Indian paintbrush, blue-purple lupine, miniature yellow buttercups, and a white flower
These were nature's flower beds that this
same spot was under
at their best
six to
and
couldn't identify.
I
it
was hard to believe
ten feet of snow just a few months
ago.
The
story of
mining here began when a young
man named Tom
Keams, who had not even graduated from grammar school but had learned mining, arrived here and a
made
chap named David Keith and Jim
When
Jim was
first
a discovery.
Ivers
I,
He
joined up with
grandfather of Grace Mary.
invited to join the group, he didn't have the
$1,500 capital required. As he was lamenting
this to wife,
Mary's grandmother, she disappeared into the backyard and
back carrying two
tin cans full of
Grace
came
money. Between them, the cans
contained more than $1,500, enabling Jim to make his investment.
34
THEODORE When
HESBURGH
M.
he asked her where she got the money, she
said, "I've
been
picking your pockets for years."
This mine was the King Silver, one of the two big original mines in this area.
times, zinc
Most of the ore here was lead carrying
and manganese.
would be probably more than three
Not tries are
mine
a single
very visible
and down the
Aspen and
is
which
in
Utah,
—namely,
skiing
valleys of Park City
billion dollars.
and tourism. As we jeeped up
and Brighton, we kept thinking of
Vail because the hillsides are dotted with very expensive
for
young
St. Mary's,
Mary Gallivan, the from Ireland,
as
is
which was
there are the less expensive hotels
built in 1884. Jack Gallivan's
in this church, as
mother
were the parents of Grace
Iverses. In the early days,
most of the pastors were
the present one. Father Pat Carley of Tipperary.
were back
at the
went over to Jim's house,
ranch about a few
aspens and pines, for drinks.
where Mickey
itself,
Park City has the oldest Catholic church
skiers.
and father were baptized
We
at today's
operating here today, but two other indus-
condominiums. In Park City
and hostels
and, at
calculated that the miners took about
It is
half a billion dollars' worth of ore from these hills, prices
silver
grilled us
five,
had
a shower,
hundred yards from here
We
and then
in a grove of
returned here to the Gallivan house,
some wonderful hamburgers.
WEDNESDAY, JULY
1
Park City, Utah
A. he same blue sky greeted us today with the same beautiful cumulus clouds drifting across the top of the ridge that
we had
visited yesterday.
a deer with a wonderful six-point set of antlers
Just before Mass,
pranced across the meadow right behind the house. As he delicately picked his way across the meadow, Santa's reindeers
is
I
could understand
about the history of this part of the world.
of the
it
of
called Dancer.
After breakfast. Jack, Grace Mary, Ned, and
a large part of
why one
for a while.
I
had
a long talk
The Holy Cross nuns were
They ran Holy Cross
Wasatch School, orphanages, and
Hospital, St.
several
Mary
elementary and
secondary schools, including Judge High School, the only Catholic secondary school in the diocese. There were well over a hundred
35
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&
now there are only two hospital. The state's population
Sisters here at that time, but
grade schools
and
of 1.4 million
a few Sisters at the
includes only about 50,000 Catholics.
Ned was
In the afternoon
who was Ned and went 1
news broadcast
first
was interviewed by
in about
and world
affairs.
and Grace Mary
to dinner with Jack
We came
Adolph's in Park City. our
I
mostly interested in education
Pete Scarlet,
Tonight,
interviewed by John Mooney, the
Lake City Tribune, and
sports editor of the Salt
at
back to the ranch house to watch
two weeks and then went to bed.
THURSDAY, JULY
2
Park City, Utah
had Mass
e
at 9
A.M. with our hosts, then breakfast and more
exploring, this time to a
one of the to
earliest ski
canyon called
Little
developments out here.
each other: the older one, Alta,
at the
Cottonwood. This was It
has two centers close
end of the canyon, and
Snowbird, a brand-new development a mile or so from Alta. Snowbird has the world's largest gondola up the mountainside.
marvelous machine that holds 125 people and
11,000
where
feet,
it
provides a great view.
1
it
It's
a really
goes up beyond
concluded
after today's
up the third canyon that one doesn't have to go to Europe
drive
anymore just as
good
We
if
offer.
These mountains are
not better.
returned to the ranch at 4:30 P.M. to change clothes, finish
the Breviary, and catch up
more Notre Dame thank them success.
Alps
to see the scenes that the
on the
friends, Phil
for helping to
Their son
is
a Notre
diary. Tonight,
and Noreen
make
the
Dame
Trustee.
Purcell.
Campaign
FRIDAY, JULY
dinner with some
for
We
wanted to
Notre
Dame
a
3
Park City, Utah
e
had a
the entrance sides.
We
bit of a is
problem maneuvering out of Jack's ranch because
such a narrow road with birch and aspen trees on both
were on the road by about 10:45 A.M., following Interstate
36
THEODORE we came
HESBURGH
M.
north for a while, drifting into
Wyoming. Then we went Utah and back into Wyoming, where
we met the
seem so
80 to the
east until
to Evanston,
rolling hills that
characteristic of that state.
Along the way, we passed through three national Targhee, and
finally,
forests
—
Bridger,
Teton, which led us to our destination.
was a
It
we came up the Snake River Canyon with high, pine-studded hills on both sides. Below, of course, was the
beautiful drive as
rocky,
Snake River,
still
relentlessly cutting
the river seemed to be
its
of people
full
Along the way, we went over
kayaks.
way through the
who were
slowed to 25 miles an hour again. This
hard to describe
and of
how
About 4
ever.
Our
is
P.M.
we came
and
rafts
where the Lindy
really big sky country.
the sky seems to go out in
Grand Teton National
paddling
a nameless pass
Today
rocks.
into Jackson,
It's
directions forever
all
Wyoming, the center
Park.
was the Biolchini home,
final destination
just outside
the
nearby town of Kelly. Our directions required us to count some gravel driveways and turn into the third one. Unfortunately, a
new driveway
had been added since the directions had been written. The
we pulled up
to, therefore,
We
was the wrong one.
first
house
found the right
house soon enough, but then we couldn't find the key. The Biolchinis wrote that they would attach
we couldn't Finally
find
it,
lamp
at the side of the door, but
despite doing everything but disassemble the lamp.
Ned went back
called around
to a
it
to the house
town and
where we had stopped
found the architect
finally
He had an extra key and brought it out With his help, however, we finally managed
designed
the house.
to us, but
work.
to find the
key.
It
had been
It
didn't take us long to
in the
lamp
were relaxing with a scotch. Purcell
had sent along with
we were
sitting out
all
They
first.
who had
it
didn't
hidden
along.
make
ourselves at
Then I whipped up
—haddock with
us
on the veranda with
coffee
home and soon we Noreen
a dinner that rice.
and
By nine o'clock cigars,
watching
the sun drop behind the silhouetted peaks of the Tetons. This must
sound
and
terribly sybaritic, but after all, this
a vacation. Still,
meal and wash our
it's
is
supposed to be a change
almost too much. Anyway,
dishes, so
we probably
felt
a
we did cook our
little less guilty.
Biolchinis can't be here until about the eleventh of July, but stick around, since this
is
a good base from
37
which
The
we may
to explore
Grand
TRAVELS WITH TED Teton and Yellowstone, in
on the It's
Buffalo Bill
mountains that
hill
the sun
is
the serenity and peace of this place.
looking directly across the
them
so spectacular.
The moon
is
now
rising
trees
and
and a quiet stream meandering
the Gros Ventre. For those interested in altitude,
perched here
peaks,
reddening the sky to the west. We're surrounded by elk
just
us,
Grand Teton
up without warning from a high plateau.
and moose and quaking aspen below
like to look
Museum.
rise straight
That's what makes
NED
Cody, where we would
as well as
difficult to describe
We're on a high
&
at
Grand Tetons
is
7,000 feet and right across
we
are
the way the highest of the
over a mile higher.
SATURDAY, JULY Jackson,
4
Wyoming
JL he Biolchinis called us from Tulsa to welcome us to their house.
They
be here next Friday night, so we will probably stay over
will
Saturday to have a
visit
with them and to thank them for their
hospitality.
Later on, Triangle
Notre
X
we had lunch with John and Mary Kay Turner
Dame
grad.
He and Mary Kay
operate rafting and horseback-
Each day they
riding concessions from the ranch.
down
at their
guest ranch, just a dozen or so miles from here. John's a
the Snake and put another 30
Besides running the ranch. Jack
raft
on horseback
300 people
for trail rides.
the president of the
is
Wyoming
Senate.
we went to visit Grand Teton eighth national park since we began this journey.
After a great hamburger lunch,
National Park, the
Right in the middle of the park
is
Jackson Lake, shaped like a giant
arrowhead. Six miles up the road from the Jackson Lake Lodge
is
Colter Bay Visitors' Center, which has a long beach and a lot of aquatic activity, including swimming.
The
lobby of the lodge looks
directly out across the lake to the Tetons, surely
one of the greatest
views of any hotel in the world. Just below the lodge
church called Sacred Heart Chapel. around the shore of the
lake.
It
We
new
38
visited a little
then followed a one-way road
passes Lay
of which are beautiful and give a
we
Lake and Jenny Lake, both
perspective of the Tetons, since
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
the shores of these lakes go right to where the mountains soar up
another 7,000 or 8,000
feet.
On
a
calm day, the lakes mirror the
jagged peaks and broad canyons of the mountains.
Like several other places we have visited, this region, too, was
covered by a succession of oceans. They receded. Then, about 70 million years ago, the mountains thrust up, carrying with
down
of sedimentation laid
Today you can see the same sandstone sedimentation
Mount Moran can
as
you would 25,000
see glaciers
still
on most of
erosion and formation
them bands
millions of years earlier by the oceans.
is still
at the top of
below the surface here.
feet
these mountains, so the
One
work of
taking place. Another great creator of
much
of the splendor and beauty
which
originates near the south boundary of Yellowstone just north of
here and passes through the
dam
we
see here
is
the Snake River,
end of Jackson Lake and on
at the
through the original canyon that was made by glaciers moving south.
Each
year, for millions of years, the
Snake River carved the canyon
deeper.
Later in the evening Buffalo
we enjoyed
a
cookout on the banks of the
River with the Turners and some friends of theirs from
Houston.
We
cooked an authentic Mexican dinner alongside the
swift-flowing river, then built a big campfire
songs appropriate for the Fourth of July. to
It
and
sat
around singing
was a very pleasant evening
end another great day.
SUNDAY, JULY Wyoming
Jackson,
A,
.fter
Mass was had a phone
They wanted
to instruct
Jacuzzi to work.
I
Ned
5
call
from the Biolchinis in Tulsa.
in the complicated art of getting the
have long been of the opinion that two people
I let Ned worry about the He soon had it running and, appropriately, was the first one to enjoy it. The Jacuzzi, by the way, is out on the deck facing the Tetons. What a place to take a bath! look forward to immersing
shouldn't worry about the same thing, so
Jacuzzi.
I
myself in
it
tomorrow
—
if
we
get back from fishing
Bob Biolchini had told us to be sure to Wildlife Museum, which opened only forty
39
visit
on
time.
the Great
American
days ago. He's the chair-
TRAVELS WITH TED man
we
of the board. There
NED
&
particularly enjoyed
an exhibition of the
moose, bear, mounThe museum also had paintings by George Catlin, Charles Russell, and Herman Herzog. Following our tour of the museum we kept a date to meet Jerry Brady, who had come down from Idaho Springs with his wife, Ricci. wildlife paintings of Carl Rungius, especially the
tain sheep, wolf, elk,
Jerry
and
buffalo.
was Notre Dame's student body president in 1957-58 and
traveled with
TV and
me
to Africa after graduation.
We
cable business.
wonderful
visit,
He now
runs the family
took the Bradys back to the house, had a
then saw them
off.
This evening we put together a meal of turkey stew with carrots
and
We
peas.
couldn't get the microwave in the Biolchinis' kitchen to
work, so we turned on the generator to the Lindy and did the defrosting there, returning to the house for the cooking.
wonderful by reveille
is
stew was
and tasted even better with white wine. Tomorrow
itself,
A.M. John Turner
at 4:30
The
is
going to take us fishing at Lake
Yellowstone.
MONDAY, JULY ]ackson,
jL oday was another day of
6
Wyoming
firsts.
T) be more
4:30 A.M. and that was certainly a
first
on
specific,
this trip. It
we were up was
still
at
dark,
although the outlines of the mountains across the way were beginning to appear in the
predawn
stillness.
We
had a quick breakfast of coffee
and some cinnamon buns we had bought yesterday. Shortly after five,
Triangle
X Ranch
were waiting for
Bunnery
at the
we were on the road and
in
town
arrived at the
about 5:30. John Turner and sons Tote and Mark
us.
We
way north. About seven
got into their carryall and were soon o'clock,
we
arrived at the
on our
marina on Yellow-
stone Lake.
Despite the early hour, a fairly strong wind was whipping across the lake, which
is
nestled in pine-clad
hills.
Lake Yellowstone
20 miles long, with a surface area of 136 square miles.
It's
lake, never going
350
We're told that
above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, and
this
is
is
is
a very cold feet deep.
a good season for cutthroat trout. This
40
about
whole
THEODORE
enormous volcanic explosion many, many
area was the result of an years ago.
The hugh
HESBURGH
M.
resulting caldera
became Yellowstone Lake.
Despite the wind, which kept changing direction every few
we
minutes, and a very clear sky with bright sunlight, the
first
Then
couple of hours.
the
practically froze
began to bite and we forgot
fish
about the coldness. Rather quickly, we caught about thirty cutthroat
On
Ned
trout.
Another dozen or
and
prayed our Breviary for the day, with John Turner joining in
I
so got off the hook.
the way back
approximately on the "Glory be to the Father, the Son, and the Holy
When we
Spirit" responses.
got back to John's ranch, he said he
felt
pretty holy.
About 4:30 valiant lady
P.M.
who
we had Mass
lives
in John's mother's house.
About
here year-round.
Dame
including a young Notre
who
lawyer,
is
a
twenty-five people,
are vacationing here,
attended Mass today and participated with great fervor.
when coming West
She
We had hoped
we would not only see the beauties of the we are getting a good sense of that, for which we are grateful. The people on this ranch, especially the Turners, really seem to care about each other and about their that
land but the beauty of the people, and
guests.
Also, they have a good, healthy spirituality which
very
is
visible as they attend Mass.
There
is still
another
first
to be
catching cutthroat trout for the
cook them
details.
I
fish
and
Then
1
put a good
slice of
also green peppers to give
them some
flavor.
wrapped each whole
fish in
toothpicks. Finally,
wrapped them
I
degree oven for half an hour.
have delicate pink
flesh
not overly fond of
fish
plates.
to
feel
1
squeezed lemon juice into the body
of the fish after they were cleaned.
each
to
we had the temerity
time,
This was such a culinary triumph that
for dinner.
compelled to recount the
in
mentioned today. In addition
first
lemon
Then
I
three strips of bacon held in place by
They
in foil
tasted
and much more
and neither
is
and put them
much
flavor
like
in a 350-
salmon, for they
than brook
trout.
I
am
Ned, but we both cleaned our
To add to the incongruity of the
situation,
1
also
had
rustled
up some baked beans with a few added ingredients. After dinner we went out
on the veranda,
discussed the battle
plans for tomorrow, and had black coffee and cigars before finishing
our prayers for the day together.
I
were really yawning by eight o'clock.
41
hate to admit I
guess
it
it,
but both of us
was the wind, the
lake,
TRAVELS WITH TED the sun, and
of those
all
firsts.
Grand Teton, the highest of distant cathedrals.
It's
watched the sun go down behind
for all the
upon
us us.
and
can hear the
1
rustle of the
L=
fast night, tired as
Oregon
Trail.
Oregon
the
The Trail
surprised at
was,
I
I
like the spires of
Gros Ventre in the valley
TUESDAY, JULY Jackson,
setting sun etches at
world
now and the mountains are The cool of the evening is
almost ten o'clock
backlighted against the western sky.
below
The
the Tetons.
dozen other peaks, looking
least a
still
all
We
NED
&
7
Wyoming
nonetheless decided to finish Parkman's
biggest surprise of
all
was that he didn't
really take
and didn't get farther west than Pueblo.
how wantonly
1
was also
they killed buffaloes in those days (the
1840s). They'd shoot these magnificent animals just to cut off a for
an ornament. Or they'd
We
went into town
One
needed doing.
needs to be spent on
someone
else.
We
just leave
this
morning
of our surprises logistics that
had the
and the car washed, since
oil it
them for a
on
was
whole variety of tasks that
this trip
we took
changed
1
L' Amour's earlier.
We
filthy dirty
from driving these gravel I
bought
a
book that
about the Anasazi, mentioned
also
dropped
off
is
list
last
some dry cleaning, picked up
BLT
Alan Simpson's daughter
visited last Sunday.
week, Louis
a half
dozen
for lunch. Afterward,
Suzie,
who
is
the assistant
American Wildlife Museum, which we had
We
took Suzie out for a half-hour coffee break.
just as delightful as
About
filled,
best-seller
director at the Great
is
had done by
Chevy, the tank
on the New York Times
visited Senator
She
how much time
Haunted Mesa, which
items at the grocery store, and grabbed a
we
is
for granted or
in the
roads and being dragged behind the Lindy. Also,
was No.
tail
to die.
her mother and father,
Ann
and Alan.
we again made the twenty-five-mile journey to the Triangle X Ranch, where we met up with a small group of people and drove down to the bank of the Snake River to take a twoand-one-half-hour rubber-raft trip. Just as we arrived at the ranch, a fellow came up to me and said, "How's my classmate?" It was Charlie Osbom, class of 1938, and his wife, Harriet. I thought that would do three o'clock,
42
THEODORE it
Notre
for
Cottingham,
Dame
coffee.
school)
sister
He had
say hello.
because while we were in town, Mike
today,
class of 1968,
Notre Dame's
Mike
seen is
HESBURGH
M.
and
his wife (a graduate of St. Mary's,
came up
to us while
Ned walking down
the street and spun around to
running a ranch out here that sends 350 teenagers
in smaller groups out into the wilderness areas
Western
states, as well as
The
trip
we were having
down
throughout four or
we saw
the Snake River was wonderful because
good deal of wildlife, including moose, ospreys, and some bald Also,
we
five
Alaska.
got to see a different view of the Teton Range.
A
a
eagles.
closing
note about Yellowstone: As you enter the park you pass the Continental
Divide at about 7,988
The Snake
feet.
here, flows westward and, after a long
River,
which
and tortuous journey through
many canyons,
reaches the Columbia River and eventually
empty into the
Pacific.
The
originates
its
waters
Yellowstone River, on the other side of
the Divide, flows to the Atlantic by way of the Missouri and Mississippi.
Four
land, east
rivers, side
and
by
side,
west. This really
go to the two oceans that border our the Continental Divide.
is
WEDNESDAY, JULY Jackson,
e got
up early and drove
distance of exactly 100 miles.
8
Wyoming
through to Lake Lodge, a
straight
There we had lunch with the manager,
Dame grad. He also invited Nancy Lauen Dame premedical student living in Lyons
Jim Fredian, a 1978 Notre She's a Notre
to lunch. Hall.
We
had a wonderful lunch with
Afterward we called ahead to the Buffalo
a lot of Bill
good conversation.
Museum
to tell
them we
Along the road, we met a very big buffalo, at ones we saw in the Black Hills. We are now the Shoshone National Forest and going down through the canyon
might be a
little late.
least twice the size of the
in
About two hours out of the Lake Lodge, we came to Cody, the hometown of my good friend and associate on the Select Commission on Immigration and Refugee Policy, Senator Alan Simpson. to the east entrance to the park.
We
drove directly to the Buffalo
Bill
Museum and
got in touch
with the director, Peter Hassrick, and his development person, Larry
43
TRAVELS WITH TED Means. This for
is
a wonderful
NED
&.
museum, probably the
best in the West,
viewing Western art and ethnological data and, of course, the
known museum
of Bill Cody, better
going through the
dealing with Buffalo
The
government 1879).
It
all
It's
men,
made
it
the more interesting to 1
me
because
I
had
never thought existed: an interesting
titled
Exploring the American West
(1803-
begins with President Jefferson and progresses to beyond
President Grant. Mainly tain
life
spent over two hours
looking at the pictures and the artifacts
something
report.
We
Bill.
exhibits were
earlier discovered
as Buffalo Bill.
speaks of those intrepid explorers,
for the
American people.
reading this publication, which
is
F5-592 E96-1982.)
It's
(If
anyone
about 116 pages,
United States National Park Service,
is
it is
interested in classified as
Department of Publications,
an absolutely wonderful compilation of every-
made Americans want
thing that
moun-
and photographers who opened up the West and
artists,
romantic
it
to go
West and what they did
after
they got there. After visiting the museum,
—
the town
that's all
a ten-minute walk through
—then dropped
in at the Hotel
Erma,
we had
a fine
Buffalo Bill for his eldest daughter, where
named by
beef dinner. so
you need
we took
We
and turned
then walked back through town
for
another mile or
in.
THURSDAY, JULY
9
Cody, Wyoming
JL oday we're on our way back into Yellowstone for a tour of the park
and then
to our habitat at the Biolchinis' house.
It
was another day
Somehow, coming from Cody through the was much more beautiful than going the other way. We thought we were back in Bryce for a while because there were so many chimney rocks and weird-shaped red sandstone canyon walls dotted with pines. As we passed Buffalo Bill Lake and
of unprecedented sights.
east entrance of the park
started
up the canyon, the whole horizon looked
like
something right
out of "The Mountain Men," a Charles Russell painting we have at
Notre Dame.
Once
in the park,
we did the lower
44
loop,
where most of the
THEODORE excitement stone,
is.
Just
where we
Range, which
is
HESBURGH
M.
beyond the
Behind
snowcapped and forms
it,
one
a wonderful
to
Lake Yellow-
sees the
Absaroka
backdrop for
this
some you might not expect
beautiful blue lake. Birds, including see,
one comes
east gate,
fished the other day.
to
are everywhere: white pelicans, sea gulls, cormorants, a wide
variety of ducks, and, of course,
The whole
area
is
numerous Canada
cumulus clouds and an incredibly blue forever unless interrupted by a
we were
interrupted:
the road,
geese.
constantly covered with great billowing white
first
which seems
sky,
to go
on
mountain range. Twice along the way,
by 300 or 400 buffaloes that decided to cross
then by a line of stopped cars whose occupants were
photographing a large herd of
some with magnificent racks of
elk,
antlers.
The two best-known attractions in the park are Yellowstone Canyon and Old Faithful. The canyon is about 1,500 feet wide and 1,200 feet deep. The sides are made of decomposed rhyolite lava rock which comes out yellow, giving the park its name. The Yellowstone River and two great waterfalls with drops of 100 and 300 feet are at the bottom of the canyon.
When we
arrived at
Old
Faithful the prediction
was that
it
would
erupt at 4:52, give or take five minutes. That gave us about a half-
hour leeway, so we did the unthinkable and went to a concession stand and bought ice-cream cones. This meant
Ned
remember the
couldn't
last
then joined a throng of about 5,000 people
around the geyser.
It
we were
really relaxed;
time he had an ice-cream cone.
who had formed
We
a ring
shot up a couple of minutes after 4:52, but well
within the five-minute leeway time.
The
eruption lasted about a
minute. While we were waiting, we saw several smaller geysers in the area shoot skyward.
We left
arrived back at the Biolchinis' about seven o'clock, having
Cody
morning about nine.
this
I
decided to get fancy and turned
out two chicken pot pies, which, thanks to Mrs. Stouffer, were marvelous. Another
first.
After dinner we sat out on the veranda with
Joyce Hank's cookies, cups of steaming black coffee, and cigars.
we were watching tonight was
a
normal
electrical
What
show going on
beyond the Tetons to the west, but moving our way. It
made
all
of our Fourth of July celebrations seem puny as the
lightning flashed across those dark skies, outlining the
45
mountain
TRAVELS WITH TED peaks.
We knew
it
had
arrived for us
when
NED
&
raindrops began to
fall.
So
we came indoors and looked out through the marvelous twenty-foothigh window front of the house and watched the pyrotechnics continue, this time to the accompaniment of thunder. This was the first heavy rain we had experienced in the four weeks we have been traveling.
when I go
always start the Rosary
I
to have to get a different system because
Mary
Hail
bed
to
at night, but I'm
rarely get
1
beyond the third
these nights before falling into a profound sleep.
the relaxation,
maybe
it's
the mountain
air.
1
going
Maybe
it's
don't want to claim a
we both have been sleeping like the dead. Tomorrow will be cleanup day before we leave again and also a day to welcome the owners of this house, Bob and completely clear conscience, but the fact
Fran Biolchini and three of their to the
six children.
sound of heavy rain beating on the
Jackson,
I
t
was
still
raining and
arose,
late,
We
days.
called
It's
me
laid
much
me my
first
morning time we
paper one accumulates in a few
that the plane
up with
calls to
When
make.
on which we hope
a shattered windshield, but
good operating condition, so the Alaskan
gave
in this
should confess. For the
whole spate of phone
Helen she told
Alaska had been in
a
Wyoming
minimal breakfast, we began the cleanup
amazing how
had
also
1
off to sleep
10
we were completely fogged
somewhat
can't see the Tetons. After a
operation.
dropped
I
roof.
FRIDAY, JULY
when we
is,
trip
is still
is
1
to go to
now back
on. She also
plane reservations from Bellingham, Washington, to
South Bend to open the Special Olympics which
Dame Stadium
will
be held in Notre
I also learned that the new administration is summer camp in Land O'Lakes, Wisconsin, to prepare for the coming year and many more that will follow. Yesterday in Cody, Ned and 1 offered Mass for their success. Fran Biolchini arrived right on schedule at 4:30 P.M. after a twoday, 1,100-mile drive from Tulsa with three of her children. Bob arrived a few hours later by air and we had a nice dinner at the country club. After dinner, we went back to the house and talked
now
this year.
assembling at our
46
THEODORE
A.M. Shortly thereafter we
until 1:30
awakened
HESBURGH
M.
all
went
a couple of hours later by three
bedroom window.
their noses against the Biolchinis'
SATURDAY, JULY
1
1
Wyoming
Jackson,
had Mass with the Biolchinis and blessed
e is
to sleep, only to be
moose who were rubbing
The weather began
only a year and a half old now.
morning, but
it
still
and clouds
drizzled intermittently
the three large Teton peaks. Fran sent us off with a
which held
we
us well after
which
their house,
to clear this still
covered
terrific breakfast,
crossed the border into Idaho. Rather
than retrace the route we had taken so many times up to Yellowstone, we headed south through Jackson, then over Teton Pass at 8,431 feet, and finally north toward Glacier National Park. Nobody thought we'd make it over that pass, and, in fact, we slowed to 14 miles an hour in low gear. But eventually we made
it.
After Teton Pass, we soon crossed the border into Idaho, our eighth state so
far.
We
drove through a section of Targhee National
then over rolling
Forest,
hills
green with wheat, hay, and plants
A
on As we proceeded north, the road became like a roller coaster, up and down between the fields. At every quadrant of the compass, we could see mountains off in the distance against that far-off big sky, now bluer than ever. By prearrangement, we arrived at the summer home of Bob growing that famous Idaho potato. as well,
but the land looked very
Bauchman,
They
class of 1943,
live in
and
great deal of irrigation goes
fertile.
his wife, Alice, near
Macks Inn, Idaho.
Las Vegas and are in the communications development
business, mainly construction. Recently, they participated in a Notre
Dame
fly-in.
About seven of the Bauchman
family and in-laws have
Notre
Dame
or St. Mary's connections, so
we
After we had
all
the daughters, sons, and in-laws sorted out,
to a little log cabin
down
the road for dinner.
only guests, but the meal was splendiferous
and a marvelous cream cooking for
saw
how
felt right at
sauce.
It
We were
home.
we drove
practically the
—shrimp and
crab, rice,
was great to enjoy someone
else's
a change. After dinner, we went down to Macks Inn and
they recreate on Saturday night in the mountains. There was
47
TRAVELS WITH TED country music and a kind of dancing that
dancing and very with a
lot
Ned, and
a few cuts
is
All of the family seemed to be
fast.
of moves and
a lot of speed.
came back
had
I
NED
&
early,
Bob was the
a nightcap
above square
terrific
dancers
Bob, Alice,
best.
and a long conversation
before the young people arrived and piled into the Jacuzzi. When we finally turned in, we all were asleep about two minutes after hitting
the pillow.
SUNDAY, JULY Macks
A.
.t
2
nine o'clock the whole living room was
and children who had come 1
1
Inn, Idaho
for Mass. It
preached on love and the family.
was
my
station
we went
in July.
falls
miles in
all
At about 11,000
From
this
men, women,
turn to celebrate, so
it
grow or
to the top of a Federal Aviation
on Sawtell Mountain. From
reclining Indian.
of
well with the Gospel,
It fit fairly
which was about planting the seed and having breakfast,
full
die.
After
Agency
radar
a distance, Sawtell looks like a
feet, it's
up there where the snow
vantage point, we were able to see about 100
directions. Fortunately, the clouds
had
lifted,
so
we had a we saw
splendid view of the Tetons from the west. North of them,
Yellowstone Park and behind them, the snowcapped Absaroka Range. Farther to the north was the Gallatin National Forest and Crazy
Mountain beyond, almost to Idaho will
be seeing
We
also
Falls.
snowcapped, and to the south, we could see
To the west was the Bitterroot Range, which we
later.
thought we'd get underway about 1:45 P.M., but our Chevy
got tangled up in the pine trees in the driveway, so the whole business,
We
out.
finally
Chevy and Kaddy
negotiated everything and were
We
headed north to Bozeman, Montana.
90,
I
park,
took the wheel and drove to Butte.
where we unhooked the Chevy.
which looked
like a
we had
Kar, and back the
We
RV
to
undo
up to get
on our way by
2 P.M.
When we joined Interstate We checked into the trailer did a quick tour of the city,
once prosperous mining town, now defunct.
We
returned to the Lindy around seven o'clock, and prepared a light
supper of toasted Believe
it
ham and
or not, we're
Swiss cheese sandwiches and baked beans.
still
eating Joyce Hank's cookies for dessert.
48
THEODORE Tomorrow
HESBURGH
M.
we'll get our muffler fixed.
making so much noise Breviary so
Ned
practically
I
Today coming into Butte
had
to
Butte,
scream while reading the
13
Montana
and
e started the day by refilling our propane tank
muffler shop. Luckily,
all
first
we saw
height, valley
on
Then
hills
90 and headed toward Missoula.
the valley narrowed, the hills increased in
and thick stands of
Interstate
with
Interstate
good-sized, rolling hills that were rather barren for
trip.
opened up
visiting a
the muffler needed was some minor repair.
That done, we got back on about half the
was
could hear me.
MONDAY, JULY
At
it
fir
we came
just as
trees
appeared on their flanks.
90 out of Missoula, we drove through
a beautiful valley
that were slightly higher and covered with pine trees.
trees gradually disappeared
confronting mountains.
The
into Missoula. Continuing northwest
from the brown
and soon we were
hills,
As we came over the
The
final rise,
there was
Flathead Lake, a beautiful deep blue- water lake that stretches to the
edge of Glacier Park.
We
Dame
stopped in Poison to meet relatives of two Notre
hometown of Spartanburg, South Carolina: Rob and Carol Tieman. Rob met us in town shortly after our arrival and
graduates from Ned's
conducted us around the south end of Flathead Lake, which twenty miles long and sixteen miles broad
about
at its widest point.
unhitched the Chevy before starting because he said road and he wasn't kidding.
is
The Tiemans' house
is
it
was a
We
difficult
about 150 feet
above the lake and looks down through wonderfiil ponderosa pines
and Douglas
firs.
There was
also a smattering of cedar, blue spruce,
lodgepole pine, and larch along the shore.
having a cold beer and discussing Glacier.
Then Carol
Both of them
We
sat
out on the veranda
how we might approach
our
visit to
turned out a great chicken and rice casserole.
are ski instructors in
Aspen, he in downhill and she in
cross-country. Because of 140 days of intensive
able to have a wonderfiiUy peaceful
summer by
in this secluded cabin, a family heirloom.
49
work
there, they are
this beautiful lake
and
TRAVELS WITH TED We're going to get an early
start
NED
&
tomorrow, so we're turning in
early tonight.
TUESDAY, JULY Poison,
astille
Day dawned
bright and clear.
We
a perfect setting as the
porch of the cabin,
14
Montana
had Mass on the front
sun came up behind the
mountains to the east and turned the lake into pure
crystal.
We
drove
about sixty miles up the east side of the lake and then over to the
Swan Range. Rob and Carol are real outdoor persons, and they knew of an old lumber road on which we could drive up to about 6,000 feet. Then, with Carol in the lead as our navigator, we hiked up the mountain
for another 2,000 or
3,000
better part of two hours with very
feet. It little
was up and up
rest
on the way.
painfully clear that Carol was in a lot better condition than Finally,
we reached
We
off
had planned
tonight, but were so
It
was
we were.
Jewel Basin, a high valley dotted with beautiful
blue-green lakes, and sat
and cheese, topped
for the
down
to a picnic lunch of fruit, crackers,
with cookies made from a chocolate substitute.
Tiemans out
to take the
to dinner in
pooped when we arrived home that
all
town
of us just
pitched in and put together a simple but tasty meal in the Tiemans' kitchen.
WEDNESDAY, JULY Poison,
e rearranged
some things
thanked the Tiemans
Chevy
15
Montana
in our
somewhat disheveled Lindy,
for their hospitality and, after hitching
again, struck out northward
up the
on U.S. 93 along the west edge of
Flathead Lake. At the north end of the lake the
alfalfa
and wheat and
grazing land began to be replaced by Christmas-tree farms.
The
Christmas trees are beautiful Scotch pine that are trimmed into perfect cones.
We
are told that Flathead
lake west of the Mississippi.
I
Lake
is
the largest freshwater
assume that means natural lakes and
I
not lakes created by dams.
50
THEODORE We
pulled up in front of St. Raymond's
where we know both the
Falls,
HESBURGH
M.
pastor, Father
Church in Columbia Bud Sullivan, and his
Father Emmett O'Neil. Father Bud is related to Mike Murphy, a C.S.C. at Notre Dame. I have known Father Emmett since we studied together at the Gregorian University in retired assistant.
Father
Rome
interested in
who
Our
in 1937-40.
is
many
of the same apostolates. Father Jack Hunthausen,
dean of the
lately.
The
He much
local clergy here, joined us for supper.
brother of Archbishop
news
we were both
paths kept crossing because
Raymond Hunthausen
of Seattle,
is
the
in the
archbishop, by the way, has an advanced degree in
chemistry from Notre Dame.
THURSDAY, JULY Columbia
F
Emmett decided
ather
JL
to
Falls,
16
Montana
come with
us to Glacier National Park,
giving us both a navigator and a good companion. Glacier Park, as
the
name
indicates,
million years ago.
was created by
They
ago. After the Europeans arrived as a
were formed a few
glaciers that
finished their
work here about 4,000 years
and the 49th
parallel
was established
boundary between the United States and Canada, the park was
The Canadian
cut in half.
park, called
Waterton Lakes, was created
and Glacier, on the American
in 1895,
side,
1910. In 1932, the two countries decreed that
fifteen years later in it
would be called the
Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park to symbolize the peace and friendship between the two nations.
On
entering the park
McDonald, which making
it
is
we
cruised along the east
bank of Lake
about sixty miles long and half a mile wide,
the park's largest lake. At the end of the lake
veritable procession of
mountain peaks of
on the sheer grandeur of the peaks
all sizes
alone,
I
we beheld
a
and shapes. Based
would have
to say that
we have seen so far. After Glacier Lake we went on a long climb over Logan Pass with its spectacular drop-offs all the way to the top. The road, called the Going to the Sun Highway, must be one of the most beautifiil drives Glacier
in
is
the most dazzling of the parks
America.
Once
over the pass,
we dropped down on the other
51
side to St.
TRAVELS WITH TED McDonald
Mary's Lake, second to
&
NED
in size. St. Mary's
about ten
is
miles long and a mile or so wide, with a depth of 246 feet. All the
and
lakes here are deep
and
blue,
the more beautiful
all
when
glassy surfaces reflect the towering peaks of the surrouriding
From
tains.
we headed
St. Mary's,
for the border
their
moun-
and the Prince of
Wales Hotel in the Canadian portion of the park. It's a beautiful lodge, in miniature much like Banff and the Hotel Frontenac in
They have only eighty-two rooms and we were fortunate to get the last two. From here, we took an invigorating walk in the woods and made several side trips in the Quebec, although more
rustic.
Chevy.
FRIDAY, JULY
Montana
Glacier Natiorud Park,
A.
inally,
it
is
Dame on June
Notre
We woke
happened.
black clouds. This
the 11
,
first
up
bad
17
this
morning
travel
to a drizzly rain
and
day we've had since leaving
so we're not complaining.
(We
did have one
day of partial rain in the Tetons, but we weren't traveling that day.)
was a dreary
trip
back to Columbia
Falls,
but fortunately
It
we saw most
of Glacier's spectacular scenery yesterday.
We
had a wonderful dinner
Father
Tom
Fenlon, a retired priest.
when
evenings that happens gether
—
in the rectory tonight.
who was
invited Father Jack Hunthausen,
filled
all, it
was one of those special
priests long in the
with reminiscences,
limericks. All in
It
e
had Mass in church
Falls,
1
Montana
for a change,
then took to the road and
headed northward with the Rockies looming on the
progress.
like the
right.
We stopped
Our Lady of Mercy, As we continued north, the view to Black Hills, but higher. Then we came
in Eureka to see the wonderful little church.
where a wedding was in
much
and
was a nice way to end a rather dismal day.
Columbia
the right was
vineyard get to-
stories, theological discussions,
SATURDAY, JULY
w
Bud had
here the other night, and
52
THEODORE out into a
area where there was
flatter
irrigated fields for cattle.
name.
As
I
When
some
Once more we
Canada. This time the customs the RV.
HESBURGH
M.
officer
agriculture,
crossed the border into
on duty
on searching
insisted
was unlocking the door to the Lindy, he asked I
you please give
him he
told
me
said, "I
thought
your autograph?"
The
mostly
recognized you.
I
me my Would
search was then discontin-
ued.
Once we passed the border, the road was much better, which doesn't say much for the United States compared with Canada. There was a good deal of
irrigation along the way, mostly to
we saw
crops for the stocky Charolais cattle that
We
alongside the road.
grow forage
numbers
in great
then entered our eleventh national park, the
As we continued northward, we had the Rockies on both and we could see snow on the higher peaks. The weather
Kootenay. sides,
continued to be cloudy with intermittent rains
all
along the way,
nothing heavy, but persistent. After about 250 miles, we arrived
Once we were
our destination for the day: Golden, British Columbia.
RV
settled in at the
campground, we had a drink and dinner that
prepared, consisting of beefsteak, rice, and peas. believe that
I
put
it
and
sizes
and ours
camps
attract
at the
by no means the
is
Golden,
fast
night
it
British
it
was
another hour.
raining,
It
was
my
we
just
all
shapes
largest.
19
Columbia
grew quite cold and rained
still
a walk
wide variety of recreational
all
went back
turn to give a homily
We both used When we got up
night.
our sleeping bags and were grateful to have them.
and saw
I
couldn't quite
we took
each night. They come in
SUNDAY, JULY
L
Ned
together by myself. After dinner,
around the camp and were amazed vehicles that these
at
to
bed and
slept for
on the Gospel, which
was an easy one on sowing good wheat only to have the enemy sow weeds in the wheat. Jesus
God
will separate
not eradicate to.
When He
says let
them and
all evil
bum
them grow
together.
At the
harvest,
the weeds. Even the good Lord does
in this world, although
He
could
if
He wanted
gave us our personal freedom, he allowed us to do good
freely but also evil.
He
lets evil exist until
53
the end of time,
when
all
TRAVELS WITH TED will
midnight. The
before
be
we have
just;
the
modem
be made aright. Most
modem The
We
if
we want
and
them
it
day for reading. Having read a
some Mozart
in our tape
all evil
not enough merely to for
have to love people and be understanding of
to help
rain continued,
it is
same time. Several good lessons
to be kind at the
Church.
their failings
reformers want to eradicate
reading said that
first
NED
&
to be better.
looked
lot of
as
though
theology
it
was going to be a
last night,
I
turned on
deck and went through about 400 Spanish
vocabulary cards to get ready for Latin America, our next travel
we took
objective. Despite the intermittent rain,
the hills after lunch.
Louise and Banff.
If it
a long
doesn't clear up tomorrow,
These are wonderful
we
walk up into
will skip
spots
tourist
in
Lake
Canada.
However, we've both been here before and there's no point in going into the mountains
when
the fog
is
only a few hundred feet off the
ground.
MONDAY, JULY
20
Golden, British Columbia
e
woke up today
to more rain and low-lying clouds, so it was off on Trans-Canada No. 1, as good a highway as you're Fortunately, the skies cleared as we headed west. We
to the west again
going to find.
went down
a long valley with snow-covered mountains on both sides. we As headed up through Rogers Pass, we drove through five tunnels. The top of the pass was only about a mile high, but there was an absolutely marvelous view of the mountains on every side. This is the
end of the Canadian section of the Waterton-Glacier National Park. We're
now heading
Range and the
into the Coast
along the Mackenzie and Fraser
rivers.
Pacific
time zone
At Kamloops we decided
to
Cache Creek. It was quite warm by the time we arrived there, but we had done over 200 miles and it was time to stop if we hoped to get into a camp for the night. We hooked up our utilities, fixed ourselves a simple meal, and took spend the night
another turning
fairly
at a
campground
long walk around
called
camp
in.
54
to limber
up our
legs before
1
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
TUESDAY, JULY Kamloops,
British
2
Columbia
much more
A. oday, the road turned out to be
spectacular than
we came into the Lillooet Range of the Coast Mountains. We passed down through some tremendous valleys between the mounyesterday as
and up over passes which culminated in Hells Gate. This
tains
is
where the chasm narrows and the Fraser River comes roaring through,
much
as the
water does at Murchison
Falls at
the headwaters of the
we were going through tunnels all day and, we saw more trains than we had seen on all of the
Nile in Uganda. Again, for
some
reason,
American a
hundred
then
left
up to
railroad lines cars long.
We
enjoyed great
Two
them were more than mountain scenery all morning,
this point.
the Coast Range behind around
of
noon and broke
for
lunch
at a truck stop. After lunch we continued south to Bellingham, where we checked into a hotel. Our plan is to leave the Lindy and the Chevy here while we fly back to Notre Dame for the Special Olympics.
After that, we'll leave from Notre
here to resume our
RV
Dame
for Alaska,
and then
fly
back
itinerary.
The first thing we did was look around for a Ford truck dealer, since we had blown our muffler again and the Lindy sounded like a Sherman tank. But we couldn't find a place that could fix the muffler; nor could we find a parking
and the Chevy.
We
facility
where we could
therefore decided to push
on
store the
Lindy
to Seattle in the
morning, in the hope that we'd find what we needed there.
During dinner in the hotel here tonight, we got into a conversation with two
young
ladies,
one our waitress and the other the
They were questioning us about our work in life, and when they found out we were priests, they both admitted they were fallen-away Catholics. One thing led to another, and I think we finally talked them into reconsidering their current religious positions. As we left the restaurant, the waitress said, "I guess it's Providence at maitresse d'hotel.
work again; the good Lord sent you around
We
will
remember them both
at
to talk to
me
Mass tomorrow morning.
55
tonight."
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&
WEDNESDAY, JULY
22
BeUin^\am, Washingum
JL oday could have been
our day of frustration.
justifiably called
We
Bellingham around 9:30 in the morning and were in Seattle by
left
We
early afternoon.
thought we had really lucked out
when we noted
that only a few blocks from the Holiday Inn was a large Ford truck
We pulled
service center.
he is
"We
said simply,
We
fine.
He
just
did
tell
just
when
but
in,
don't take care of RVs."
want you
came out, answered, "The RV
the service manager
to fix the muffler
We
on the Ford truck
chassis."
repeated that he didn't take care of RVs and that was that. us that there was
to the south. Since
go there
an
we were
RV
nowhere with him, we decided to
getting
checking into the Holiday Inn. But
after
He
repair place about twenty-five miles
check in we were told that no rooms were
some heavy persuading on Ned's
when we
available. Finally, after
manager
part, the
tried to
told us to
come
back in a couple of hours, and in the meantime he'd see what he could do. In our free time, we decided to go repair place. mufflers."
When we
They
It
was
he could stretch
if
it
we
little
more than
his welding
the road to the
"We
got the answer:
which looked
sent us to another place,
night operation. said
found
down
don't
RV fix
like a fly-by-
a shack, but the proprietor
equipment
far
enough, he'd
try to
weld our muffler and exhaust pipe together, which would have solved our problem.
We
pulled the
to fix ourselves
RV
in as close as
some lunch.
finished welding,
we had
inside the RV When the man
we could and went
Finally our luck changed.
a muffler that was as quiet as the Chevy's.
And when we went back to the Holiday Inn, we had a couple of rooms. Storing the RV and the Chevy, however, was another matter. There was a storage place and a
available, but
leg to leave the rig there for
didn't appear to be too tight.
better part of valor
would be
At to
it
would have cost us an arm
two weeks. What's more, security
that point,
it
seemed
of Portland, a Holy Cross (our order) operation where
among
friends
to us that the
push on tomorrow to the University
and could undoubtedly
two vehicles.
56
we would be
find a secure place to leave our
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
THURSDAY, JULY Seattle,
23
Washington
e pulled into the University of Portland about
search of friends.
vice president there.
He took
After lunch, Dave and Father
Tom Oddo,
a few
a number of new friends.
the president, took us over
Dick Rutherford's house, which has two bedrooms. Father
Dick was away
for the
weekend
so
we inherited
his place.
town and made an appointment
called the Ford agency in
I
made
in
the academic
where we met
us to lunch,
our other Holy Cross priests and Brothers and
to Father
noon and went
We soon ran into Father Dave Sherrer,
worse than getting in to see the dentist) to have the
oil
(it's
changed and
the Lindy lubricated tomorrow at 8:30 A.M. We'd been given an ideal place to keep our rig until
we
—
get back
maintenance garage. With these
last
right outside the university
two days of unplanned
have driven 7,572 miles since leaving South Bend.
We
travel,
we
had Mass with
Community this afternoon, then a joyous dinner, where we were reunited with many old friends. Following that, Father Oddo took us on a very pleasant walking tour of the campus. I really envy them for the
the seventy-year-old sequoia trees they have growing here. They're
about thirty teet high and are
all
over campus. I'm afraid, though,
that they just wouldn't survive the climate at Notre
FRIDAY, JULY PcfTtland,
e were
up
24
Oregon
early to get the Lindy
dealer before 8:30 A.M. Luckily
Dame.
and the Chevy
we got
to the local Ford
there early, for soon there was
a long line of people waiting to have repairs done.
service
work was done, we returned
to the university
When
all
the
and had Mass
and lunch with the Community. After that we began packing our small duffel bags for the quick trip back to Notre
one
to
Alaska immediately following
it.
Dame and
to overload the small plane we'll be flying in to Alaska.
the perishables out of our refrigerator and put ford's.
Then we
the longer
We're traveling light so
them
We
as
not
cleaned
in Father Ruther-
shut off the propane gas, chained the Kaddy Kar to
the Lindy, and locked the doors.
57
With
all
our housekeeping com-
TRAVELS WITH TED now
pleted, we're
who
ready for a free day tomorrow. Father Terry Lalley,
used to teach psychology at Notre
Psychological Center here,
is
Dame and
Portland,
ur
of the
25
Oregon
Multnomah
stop with Father Lalley was
first
now head
is
going to show us around the area.
SATURDAY, JULY
o,
NED
«Si
Falls,
We
very long, wispy, and of the bridal-veil variety.
which
are
then went to
Chanticleer Point, where we had a great view of the Columbia River as
comes toward the ocean from the
it
Dam, dedicated by Franklin D. more than $3 one of the
billion
first
worth of electricity since
dams used
to
Next was Bonneville
east.
Roosevelt in 1937. its
It
has developed
dedication, and was
experiment with accommodating the
spawning of the salmon. Finally,
we came
to
Panorama Point about
fifty
Hood. Snow-covered Mount Hood almost looks Himalayas
as
it
rises majestically
the other mountains around
Helens from here.
We
is
truly majestic,
We
one of the
like
floor. It
Mount
simply dwarfs
were also able to see Mount
St.
drove a very beautiful road that goes around
Mount Hood and came up lodge
it.
from the valley
miles from
the back of
it
to Timberline Lodge.
The
with heavy wooden furniture and immense
wooden beams. The room President Roosevelt had used is now a kind of museum, and you can listen to a tape recording of the speech he
made
here.
7,000
feet.
We enjoyed another We ended our tour
clams by the bucket
great view by taking the ski
lift
up
to
at a Portland restaurant that served
as well as crab Louis.
We
sampled both.
After this brief interlude in Portland, we flew directly back to
campus
to participate in the Special Olympics, for
to be honorary chair.
58
which
I
had agreed
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
TUESDAY, AUGUST
4
Notre Dame, Indiana
w.
've
been back
getting ready to
fly
Dame
Notre
at
day we
left
been on an airplane, by
seven weeks since
I'd
without a
almost forty years.
flight in
week and
for a
On the
to Alaska.
a day
Portland
my
far
The most
and now it
are
had been
longest spell
exciting event of the
week, and the reason we were here, was, of course, the Special
Olympics, the largest
of this kind in the history of the world.
affair
Credit for organizing the Special Olympics, not only here but worldwide, goes to Eunice Kennedy Shriver and her husband, Sarge. a thrilling sight to see those
women marching around
It
was
men and
5,000 smiling handicapped
the stadium to cheers during the opening
ceremonies, perhaps feeling for the
first
time in their
lives a sense of
importance and dignity. There was the usual hoopla with celebrities in attendance.
It
minute's prayer.
I
was
my
small task as honorary chairman to say a
prayed for peace and for the splendid example that
these young people from so
many
conflicting nations were giving us
by competing together and upholding the dignity of denigrated because of retardation or disability. despite all of their difficulties, so can we. spirit that
we were
celebrating.
If
It
human
beings so
they can get together
was
As somebody
really the
said so well,
human "Here
everybody wins; there are no losers."
Everyone back here
at
Notre
Dame was
surprised that those
who
were not supposed to get past Gary managed to put over 8,000 miles
on the Lindy and the Chevy. So with us as we continue. It
far,
so good.
May
was, of course, great to be back at Notre
the good Lord be
Dame,
if
even for a
week. Neither of us has missed the daily schedule of the past thirtyfive years,
however
home
but
is
home, and we were both happy
to see
it,
briefly.
We were
up
at 6:15
A.M. today.
Ned and
I
offered
Mass together,
then went to the airport, where we met OUie Cunningham, his wife, Millie,
and
their copilot,
Cessna Conquest, a prop
Ted Byron. jet
in the
air,
are flying a two-engine
that easily seats four passengers besides
the pilot and the copilot, with plenty of
we were
We
and a few hours
room
for luggage.
later, after fiiel stops
59
By 8 A.M.
in Aberdeen,
TRAVELS WITH TED South Dakota, and Great
Falls,
NED
&
Montana, we landed in Bellingham,
Washington.
WEDNESDAY, AUGUST
5
Bellingham, Washington
Alaska until tomorrow, so today the four
e were not leaving for
of us got a rental car and drove up to Vancouver for some leisurely sightseeing. cit>%
We
saw the
toured beautiful Stanley Park in the middle of the of the World's Fair,
site
and walked along the wharf Ted Byron
had lunch
for a while.
Back
in the Bayside Hotel,
in
Bellingham we met
Yacht Club.
for dinner at the
THURSDAY, AUGUST
6
BeUingham, Washington
ilhe day
and sunny
davv-ned bright
as
we took
off in the
Cessna from
Bellingham, but by the time we were approaching Sitka, Alaska,
were in dense
When we
fog.
were only about
ICX) feet off
we
broke into the open on our approach, we the deck.
Sitka was opened by Alexander Baranof and the Russian Ameri-
can Company, a fur-trading operation. Baranof was the governor of the Russian colony here from 1799 to 1818.
The
local Indians, the
who were
hunters, gatherers, and especially fishermen, de-
stroyed the colony
and drove out Baranof and the Russians in 1802.
Tlingit,
Baranof and the colonists recaptured Sitka, which was then called
St.
Michael's, in 1804.
Baranof was a called "the
New
very- forceful
Archangel," a great Russian port on the Arctic
Ocean. He traded widely, even Francisco for $25 a ton. colonists' children
character and created here what he
back to
He
selling ice to the residents of
also built a steamship
San
and sent the
St. Petersburg for their education. In the
center of town, the Russians built an ornate Russian cathedral, St. Michael's. Sitka began to be called "the Paris of the Pacific" because
of
its
beaut>'.
In 1867, thanks to the efforts of Secretary- of State
William Henr>' Seward, the United States bought Alaska from Russia
60
THEODORE
The purchase was
called "Seward's Folly," even
two cents per
Alaska became our forty-ninth
$7.2 million.
for
though
it
came
to
HESBURGH
M.
acre.
state in 1959.
Sitka
is
framed by the snowcapped peaks of the Tongass National
and Mount Edgecumbe, a volcano. The Japan Current keeps temperatures fairly moderate here 50s and 60s in the summer and Forest
—
20s in the winter.
everything
on
many totem
The town
small
is
foot. For sightseers the
poles.
convey themes in
The
AUGUST
we
English muffins and reindeer sausage,
7
with a breakfast of
fortified
set off to see Sitka in
where the Russians defeated the Tlingit Indians
are also nineteen very fine
more
in 1804.
totem poles here. After lunch we
toured Sheldon Jackson College with
A
poles often
Sitka National Historic Park, adjacent to the city, contains
site
There
on the
Alaska
was foggy and rainy again today, but
detail.
the
major attractions here are the
tribal history.
Sitka,
t
one to see
to allow
intricately carved figures
FRIDAY,
I
enough
its
president, Michael Kaelka.
highlight of the tour was seeing the
room where Jim Michener
researched his great book Alaska.
The
college does a lot of fish research and currently they're
running a project that puts 16 million salmon back into the bay here
each year. Later we visited a Russian cemetery and what's
left
of old
Baranof Castle, where the transfer of Alaska from Russia to the
United States took place.
Unfortunately,
the Russian Orthodox
church, St. Michael's Cathedral, was closed because most of their
income comes from
tourists
and the
cruise ship
had
SATURDAY, AUGUST Sitka,
e
and
went out
fishing this
Millie: Fred Reeder,
caught a ten-pound
town.
8
Alaska
morning
who owned
silver
just left
at 9:30
with two friends of GUie
the boat, and Steve Brenner.
We
salmon out on the ocean and some rock cod
61
TRAVELS WITH TED while trolling along the coast. That was about pointed, though, because
some
variety of other creatures.
today.
itself,
We
And
much
We
it.
after the
were overdue in returning
It's
weren't disap-
humpback
wildlife:
whales,
and a
eagles,
there was also the incredible beauty of
even more stunning
Millie have extended to us, so
dinner.
so
swimming behind the boat, several bald
seals
the coast
we saw
NED
&
sun
finally
broke through
the hospitality Ollie and
all
we took them
Channel Club
to the
reputed to be the best restaurant in Sitka.
It's
for
the only
place I've ever eaten where the halibut tasted good to me; even the
crab legs were outstanding.
The
beefsteak was about one and a half
inches thick and legendary in these parts.
We
shared our choices.
SUNDAY, AUGUST Alaska
Sitka,
A
'm. In the middle of the after-
went down
to the
computing center and spent an hour and a
We
half learning about computers.
number of software programs, and an
We
demon-
got tired just watching the athletic young lady
I
had about
a
hundred people
have ten computers aboard, a instructor. at
Mass
this afternoon,
which
is
very good considering we're only one day out and there are about
twenty other things one can do to build as the days pass.
continue to improve
some extra
effort.
the rabbi today. aboard. But
if
We
we
also
at that hour.
tends
We're convinced that attendance will give
good homilies, so we're putting
in
worked out a schedule with the bishop and
No problem for the rabbi,
we have
The congregation
because there
is
a
synagogue
to split times with the Episcopalians. We'll have
Sunday Masses
at 8 .A.M.
Holy Eucharist
at
and 6:15 P.M.
9 A.M. in the card
in the theater. He'll
room and another
have his
service each
week on Wednesday.
We
have traveled almost 1,000 miles from
New
York and have
another 1,000 to go after we leave Everglades tomorrow night, en route to St.
Thomas. The
warmer. Ned and
deck
after
I
did
seas have
calmed down
a bit
and
it's
getting
some high-speed walking around the outer
dinner tonight.
182
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
FRIDAY, JANUARY
15
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
A. he ship
came aboard
We
crowded.
terribly
which
here,
Once we
Angeles. a
is
were told that about 600 people
will give us a very full ship
get to Los Angeles, things should be easier. There,
good number of people
why
and we
will get off,
1,000 in the passenger group, which the crew. That's
from here to Los
is
have only about
will
about the number we have in
these trips are so expensive.
Father Bernard D'Arcy, a White Father from Ireland
He was aboard when we began
again in Fort Lauderdale. cruise,
He
who
looks
between Pope John XXIII and Spencer Tracy, came aboard
like a cross
but
left
the Christmas
the ship to spend the holidays with friends in Florida.
be the chaplain for the crew.
will
We
had a nice group of people
for Mass, probably a
which was better than expected since we were mixed up change.
1
"Pallada, "
came back
to the cabin to
book
a long
I
started
do more
sailing
on the Christmas
account by Ivan Goncharov, a Russian, of his
on
a sailing ship in 1852-55.
it's
difficult to
It's
read quickly. I'm
trip
hundred,
in the time
on The cruise.
Frigate It's
an
around the world
so full of colorful descriptions that
now with Goncharov in Japan, where come ashore in Japan.
he's trying to get the Japanese to let Russians
No way!
SATURDAY, JANUARY En Route
A.
.s
with
all first
16
Thomas
to St.
days out with several hundred
new
aboard, this was a day of meeting people. All one has to do
passengers is sit
down
with a book along one of the main decks and twenty-five people an
hour will stop and say hello. That's a
had
my
collar on, fifty
ship that
it's
would
stop.
Everyone
is
to
remember.
If
I
so friendly aboard this
hard to read for more than ten minutes without someone
stopping by for a chat. That's
all to
here to be chaplains. This afternoon
on the boat deck. People
names
lot of
tell
I
me
hope
it
was
the good, though, because we're I
did a
little
marriage counseling
successful.
they are delighted that
183
we can have Mass
this
TRAVELS WITH TED Saturday afternoon at 6:15, since of
them
it
NED
&.
count for Sunday Mass.
will
around 8:30 in the morning to
are leaving
Amalie, the capital city of
St.
Thomas
visit
Many
Charlotte
in the U.S. Virgin Islands,
where we anchor.
The U.S. Virgin Islands are a trust territory of the United States. They lie 1,400 miles southeast of New York, 1,000 miles southeast of Miami. There are about
fifty
islands in
all,
but only three that are
inhabited to any extent worth mentioning: St. Thomas, St. Croix,
and
St.
John.
The
islands are a part of the Lesser Antilles,
the
southern end of a 2,500-mile chain of Caribbean islands, sometimes called the
West
Indies, that stretch
from the
tip of Florida to the coast
of Venezuela, dividing the Caribbean Sea from the Atlantic Ocean,
Geologists and oceanographers say that the island chain was once an
unbroken bridge between North and South America. Most of the islands are the extinct volcanic peaks of a great
submarine mountain
range; a few grew from the shallow underwater shelf as coral formations.
Columbus the
New
sighted the island in 1493 during his second voyage to
World.
He
put ashore for fresh water at Salt River on St.
Croix on the morning of November 14, but quickly retreated when hostile Carib Indians
made
As Columbus continued
it
plain that visitors were not welcome.
sailing
northward, he sighted
many
of the
other islands in the group. So impressed was he with their number
named them Las VirgineSy after St. Ursula and her 11,000 companions who were reputedly slain by the Huns during the sacking that he
of Cologne.
The and
first
European inhabitants of the island were primarily
privateers
who
treasure ships that passed through the
West Indies on
to Europe from Central America. In 1671 the
Company began
pirates
spent their time preying on the richly laden
—
colonizing the islands
their
way back
Danish West Indian
first St.
Thomas, then
St.
John. In 1733 the Danish government bought St. Croix from the
French, by which time the sugarcane industry was thriving on St. John. St. Thomas,
on the other hand, was the hub of the
between the Old and
New
trade routes
Worlds, a hangout for buccaneers, and an
auction block for Africans imported as slaves to work the sugar plantations.
The
islands
remained Danish until 1917, when the United States
184
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
purchased them for $25 million in order to achieve control over the
Panama Canal and
sea approaches to the
to prevent
Germany from
establishing a submarine base in the islands. Prohibition in the 1920s dealt the final
blow to the sugar industry; most of the crop had gone
into the manufacture of
Though long
rum
sold
on the U.S. mainland.
extinct, the sugar industry
for the islands' racial
makeup and
is
primarily responsible
language. Most of the inhabitants
of the Virgin Islands are descended from the African slaves and
who worked
contract laborers
seers of the plantations
the old plantations. Because the over-
were English, Scottish, and
the workers
Irish,
adopted the English language. St.
Thomas
is
probably the best
known
Thirteen miles long and four miles wide, square miles, almost exactly the
size
it
of the islands today.
comprises twenty-eight
of Manhattan.
The
capital city
of the island, Charlotte Amalie, nestles above a spectacular natural
harbor on the south side of the island. Yachts and sailboats swing on their
moorings along the shore, and majestic cruise ships from
the world
lie at
The main
industry of the islands today
on tourism
over a billion. Most of the income is
over
anchor further out.
quarter of a billion dollars
Everything
all
is
is
tourism.
They earn
every year and have a
GNP
due to their free-port
sold without taxes. Tourists get a bonus;
a
of
status.
an extra $400,
doubling the limit of tax-free goods on returning to the United States.
Shops
line
both
sides of
Main
Street for several blocks
waterfront.
Good
restaurants
and
and crowd
down
to the
lively bistros are scattered
among
against each other in the narrow alleys that slope
the shops along the waterfront, completing the portrait of Charlotte
Amalie
as a busy
and cosmopolitan center of commerce, government,
and entertainment.
There seem
to be
many more
Catholics aboard this time than
during the Christmas cruise. And, of course, there are always others
though they aren't Catholic. The movie tonight was Platoon. Really bloody and full of obscenities. If they had eliminated the four- letter words, there would have been almost no dialogue
who
join us, even
at all.
185
TRAVELS WITH TED SUNDAY, JANUARY Charlotte Amalie,
JL
his
is
We
Thomas
St.
bought a couple of tropical
guayaberas, for under seven dollars, a few toilet articles,
some scotch
some more books, and
for
knew
shirts,
about six dollars,
a couple of very attractive
who collect them. me so long to get the
Lladros for Helen and Pat, our secretaries,
little
I
started another book, since
it's
Jerusalem Institute started.
Ned and hundred
It's
taking
now
Russian frigate around the world (I'm
by Walter Burghardt, an old
on,
7
1
the third time we'd been in Charlotte Amalie, so we
where to do our shopping.
tell
NED
&
in
China). This
who
Jesuit friend
The Art and
called Preaching:
a
need
days, so we're going to
already that Walter's excellent
the help
all
book
is
the Craft.
not being well prepared.
is
my
Route
to
I
common
I
learned was that
dent on Election 88.
far,
and the decks were
nominated and
elected. Later
1
it
The
never be a computer expert. After
He answered
—demurring only when
full
took the opportunity' to learn some-
I'll
adroitly
of
18
attended a lecture by Herbert Kaplow,
1
can
Early
fault
thing about word processing at a lecture in the computer center.
main thing
1
Cartagena
JL his turned out to be the nicest day so of people sunning themselves.
lot.
homilies.
MONDAY. JANUARY En
get.
decided then and there to
I
concentrate especially hard on preparing
we can
going to help a
he makes one very good point: the most
lunch
book
are going to be preaching every other day for the next
I
preachers
is
helped us get our
ABC
news correspon-
a lot of tough questions very
came
to predicting
who would
be
spent an hour walking the deck and
preparing the homily for tonight's Mass. We're
100 and 150 people every day for Mass and
it's
now up
to
between
a great opportunity to
preach the Word.
We
had
to
change from our usual place in the Princess Grill
tonight because someone objected to our cigars.
an area cigars
at the other side of the
and welcomed
us.
Our
We
were moved into
room where everybody
else
smoked
friends at the old location said they were
186
THEODORE
M.
going to put on a revolution and
want
didn't
us to leave.
taken with
Some
But there
us.
speed walking,
1
a
little
all start
smoking
cigars because they
them came over to have their always someone who objects
of
is
thinking that cigar smokers are
While doing
HESBURGH
just a
pictures loudly,
notch above mass murderers.
exercise around the deck today in high-
ran into a couple
Notre Dame. They said they
just
who had six children graduate from me to say thanks. thanked
stopped
1
them!
TUESDAY, JANUARY
19
Cartagena, Colombia
e visited
are
woke up this morning in the harbor, but since we had here on the Christmas cruise, we decided not to go ashore.
now en
My
Frigate "Pallada. "
and
tightly written that
However,
I
greatest
While
The
it.
We
route to Puerto Limon, Costa Rica's Atlantic port, a short
run from Cartagena.
with
just
it
it is
achievement of the day was finishing only 650 pages long,
it is
was impossible to make very
so closely
much speed He passed
did get the author back across Siberia.
through Irkutsk in the center of the continent, where we
I
had picked
up the Trans-Siberian Express from Moscow to Beijing a few years ago.
At the time,
a small group of Notre
Dame
people were arranging for
peace students from the then U.S.S.R. and China.
coming each
We still have them
year.
begun a new book by Jim Michener, Sayonara. I'm particuinterested in it because it's about a Japanese- American marriage,
I've larly
which
is
what the Micheners'
is.
WEDNESDAY, JANUARY
20
Puerto Limon, Costa Rica
C5 ome of our fellow passengers
took off this morning for a four-hour
bus trip into San Jose, the capital of Costa Rica. Since we had been there only a couple of
and tour
this port
months
town
we decided to stay with the We did it on foot, which is the
ago,
instead.
187
ship best
TRAVELS WITH TED way of doing
except that
it,
it
NED
&
was about 90 degrees
in the shade,
and
there was ver>' Uttle shade.
Puerto
Limon
town with
a typical port
is
lots of
tmcks coming
and going and huge numbers of containers up and down the docks being loaded and unloaded from ships. Outside our porthole were a
number
of containers from Russia. Bananas
here, together with
of tropical
all sorts
seem
fruit.
We
to be the big deal
through the
strolled
food market, then visited the local supermarket, where we bought
such things
potato chips, shaving cream, shoe polish,
as toothpaste,
and notebooks. Everything seemed quite cheap here, about half of
what the
We
cost
would be
home.
at
which was very clean and neat
also visited the local church,
and rather
modem
The Christmas creche was
in design.
which seemed strange on January
done, so we're glad we managed to see
My
However,
20. it.
turn to preach at Mass tonight, so
thought to what
I'll
say.
I
think
I've
been giving some
on the Mass,
talk
I'll
probably never heard a sermon on the Mass. People are
invite
them
We
since
many
over a hundred people coming every day and
stopping for a chat.
up,
still
was beautifully
it
we have
of
them have
still
constantly
often turn up nonpracticing Catholics and
to our service.
I
also spent
some time with
a lady
who
is
slowly dying o{ cancer. I'm glad that she can enjoy the sunshine we've
been having today.
We
are scheduled to leave here about 6 P.M.
(actually Port
Lemon
in English),
entrance to the Panama Canal.
wonders
ot the world.
It
it's
The
From Puerto Limon
only a short run to the Atlantic canal
is
one of the engineering
spans the hfty-mile width of the Isthmus of
Panama, joining the world's two great oceans. The Isthmus was known
Columbus, but
to Christopher
Balboa in 1513, eleven years 1534, Charles
V
it
was
after
first
explored by Niinez de
Columbus saw
of Spain had a survey
made
for a
it.
Way back
happened, however, until 1880, when Ferdinand de Lesseps, built the Suez
Canal, came here
Company. Nine in the attempt
to start
work
in
canal. Nothing
tor the
who
French Canal
years later, after tens of thousands of people
and the company had spent $300 million,
it
had died
went into
bankruptcy.
The United
States obtained the French rights for
$40 million.
After the Hay-Herran Treaty was signed in 1903, the Colombian
188
THEODORE Senate refused to
ratify
Panama disengaged
so
it,
HESBURGH
M.
itself
from Colombia
with some machinations on our part and confirmed the treaty in
The treaty gave us possession in perpetuity of a ten-mile strip across Panama so that we could build the canal. We promised to pay Panama $10 million in gold and $250,000 a year forever. This went 1904.
on and increased ten times
over. Recently,
we agreed
Canal Zone and the operation of the canal over
on the
to turn
to the
both the
Panamanians
day of this millennium, December 31, 1999.
last
As everybody knows, two
colonels really were important in the
building of the canal, William Gorgas, the diseases and making
life
it,
took care of getting
somewhat more
who
construction, and George Goethals,
$380 million into
who
livable
rid of
during the
did the engineering.
We
put
not bad considering that the French put in $300
million and failed.
As
for the canal itself,
feet deep.
QE2 and
It
it's
50.7 miles long, 110 feet wide, and 41
has twelve locks, each of them 1,000 feet long.
transits the locks there six inches
on each
is
side.
just
As
the
about a yard to spare at each end
The QE2
pays over $100,000 to go
when it arrives even month ahead of time.
through the canal, and generally gets preference
though
it
has to
make an appointment
a
THURSDAY. JANUARY
21
Panama Canal
e arrived at the
mouth
of the canal and the twin ports of
Colon around dawn. There were a number of ships stacked there in formation, but we entered the canal first because we pay more than anyone else and we have had a date for this hour for Cristobal and
we broke the record for paying at the canal, handing over a check for more than $106,000. Since the QE2 was refurbished, there is a little more usable profitable space more than
a
month. In
aboard and that It
is
fact,
today
what one pays
for.
was a wonderfiil experience seeing
this
67,000-ton vessel glide
from one ocean to another with seeming ease. The transit took about
As mentioned, we entered the canal on the Atlantic side. miles later, we went through the Gatun Lock, which in three brought us 85 feet above sea level of the Atlantic. Then we
nine hours.
A few steps
189
TRAVELS WITH TED traveled
&
NED
on our own power through Gatun Lake, which
is
man-made.
Next was the famous Gaillard Cut, an eight-mile excavation through the solid rock of the Continental Divide. Following that,
we went
through the Pedro Miguel Lock, which lowered us 3 1 feet to Miraflores
came the Miraflores Locks and in two again 54 feet down to the Pacific Ocean. Four miles reached the terminus at Balboa on the Pacific. Lake. After that
The most
interesting thing about this operation
done by water, which moves by For each ship that goes through,
and
all
or in
of
has to
it
Madden
come from
from one
gravity
steps,
after
is
we were that, we
that
it
is
all
level to the other.
takes 52 million gallons of water,
it
rainwater caught either in
Gatun Lake
Lake, or from the water draining into the lakes from
the upper Chagres River.
We
will
be in the Pacific for the next two months or so until we
pass through here in the other direction
stop
is
on our way home. Our next
Acapulco, a distance of over 1,500 miles from here. We'll pass
the coastlines of Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Gua-
We
temala, and finally the Pacific coast of Mexico.
much
at
home
we
here, because
both
feel very
visited all these countries just last
September.
FRIDAY, JANUARY En Route A. his morning we woke up to
The
Pacific
is
living
up to
its
to
as
22
Acapulco
calm a sea
name.
A
as
we have seen
so
far.
whole school of dolphins was
number of ships, mainly tankers, passed by en route to Panama. Off the starboard side, we see long rows of mountains on the coastline, as well as a number of islands out at sea. cavorting off the port side as a
It's
a beautiful sunny day, with the temperature in the high 80s.
finished Sayonara before turning in last night,
Allan Bloom's The Closing of Burghardt's Preaching.
morning,
I
While
the I
I
and now I'm beginning
American Mind and continuing with
was up on the sports deck reading
ran into Herb Kaplow.
this
We had a two-hour bull session out
known each other for a long time, going 1950s and the 1960s when I was on the Civil Rights
in the sun.
He and
back to the
late
I
have
Commission.
190
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
SATURDAY, JANUARY En
e
woke up
Route
23
Acapulco
to
to another flawless day, clear light blue sky, reasonably
calm, deep blue water, and sunshine everywhere. We're out of sight
but
of land,
we do
and see some porpoises company from time to time. I decided to breakfast, one on computer programming and
pass occasional ships
skipping along to keep us skip
two lectures
after
on Acapulco.
the other
Closing of the
Instead,
American Mind. At
I
read the
P.M. today,
I
few chapters of The
first
we had an
international
foodfest,
which meant that the
was
with tables replete with every conceivable type of food from
filled
largest dining
room, the Mauritania,
every culture. Several hundred people descended
on
it,
and
in almost
no time everything was gone.
We
continue to meet about twenty new people every day. This
name department, since most of them will Los Angeles. Then another 900 or so will descend upon
gets a bit difficult in the
be leaving in us
and
we'll start learning
names
all
over again.
SUNDAY, JANUARY
24
Acapulco, Mexico
were met in Acapulco by Carlos Pamplona, Coca-Cola's
e
number two
public relations
man
in Mexico.
He
presented us with a
wonderful copper plate depicting the Calendario, the great calendar stone of the Aztecs.
He then took
three cruise ships in port, was in
The
shape at the moment.
swing. Mexico
I
there for
many
seemed
is
in
bad financial
peso has fallen to a low of about 2,200 to
remember when the exchange
a dollar.
It
us to the local market, which, with
full
rate
was 12.5 and
it
stayed
years.
to get hotter as the day
curve of the bay
down
went on.
to the Princess Hotel.
We
It's
drove around the
built like
an early
Aztec or Mayan pyramid, hollow on the inside with an enormous lobby rising up to the roof, some thirty floors up.
and lobby, which
is
also has a
it
and one of the most beautiful
They pump
seawater through the gardens
wonderful tropical garden surrounding
beaches one could imagine.
It
quite a spectacular sight.
191
They make the
best
TRAVELS WITH TED pina coladas in the world here.
We
NED
&
were quite dehydrated by now, so
we stopped to have one. Then we drove over to Las Brisas, where we met the QE2 tour group at the beachfront restaurant. Las Brisas is a very interesting hotel too. All the accommodations are
bungalows called
casitas,
MONDAY, JANUARY En JL oday we
will
little cliffside
most with their own private pools.
Route
25
Los Angeles
to
be crossing the bottom of the Gulf of California to
Baja California, passing by those wonderful places like Las Cruces,
San
Cabo, and San Lucas, the southernmost
Jose del
have
many happy memories
fourteen Christmas vacations
and Charlie Jones.
1
1
down
here with
my
little
only wish we could
I
come
church perched on the
the airstrip at Las Cruces, where
offered Christmas
1
Smith
friends C. R.
described these places at greater length in
could see the
1
of this part of the world, having spent
book, God, Country, hlotre Dame. the shore so
city in Baja.
my
last
closer to
hillside
above
Midnight Mass
for fourteen years running.
Reading Bloom's book again, I'm finding him to be a grim prophet
who somewhat overstates his now that he's getting
getting tougher
case,
I
think.
into the
And
German
the book
is
philosophical
precedents for our current dilemma, the false prophets, Nietzsche,
Weber, Freud, Heidegger, thinks they
all
etc.,
We
when one raised
He
brought us to the moral relativity that pervades the
academic scene today. Relativity of death
not to forget Hegel and Marx.
gets to values
$450
in
is
O.K. in
physics, but
it is
the kiss
and morals.
church collections over the weekend
Apostolate of the Sea. That's only slightly
less
for the
than we did at
Midnight Mass. The congregation seems to get bigger each day, although we only take up collections on Sunday. the
New
It
will
be sad to see
York-Fort Lauderdale-Los Angeles group get off the day after
tomorrow. They have been the core of our congregation and have
grown
steadily.
As
1
wander around the deck
and a guayabera, almost everybody talked to it
says,
some people who were having
would look peculiar
in a pair of white trunks
"Hi, Father." This morning spiritual
to the Fathers of the
192
am
sure
to see
me
problems.
Church
1
1
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
and a
discussing prayer, marriage, alcoholism,
variety of other things
clad only in a guayabera and a pair of tennis shorts. However, the
important thing
is
the message, not the messenger, or what he's
wearing.
TUESDAY, JANUARY En
Wk,hen we turned out
Route
to
Los Angeles
morning,
this
26
it
was about twenty degrees
colder than the 85- and 90-degree temperatures we've been used to,
and windy. For the
how ship.
first
time in weeks,
1
a change in temperature alters the
When
it's
put on a jacket.
whole tempo of
hot and balmy, the decks are
It's
life
amazing
on
this
of people lying
full
around in shorts and bikinis getting sunburned. The moment the temperature drops, the decks are deserted and people are inside taking
advantage of
all
the indoor activities aboard the ship. There
is
bingo
with a $5,000 final-day pot. There are lectures on everything from astrology to investments.
There
10,000 books that go with
it.
the library and the wonderful
is
There
is
the Golden Spa, which offers
a wide range of athletic activity. There's even a course
might expect in Los Angeles. This activities of various kinds, is
to get
my
in addition to about fifteen other
is
and about ten
two good books and
my
bars.
had a
fine
Mass today.
My answer to all of this
Breviary and go up
prayers said for the day, light a good cigar,
We
It
on what one
and
on the deck,
start reading.
was Ned's birthday and the
who were getting sermon, telling those who were
get
last
Los Angeles.
day
gave
aboard for the passengers
off in
a nostalgic
leaving us in Los Angeles
how much we had
1
enjoyed seeing this Christian community sponta-
They really are an extraordinary group. They sang "Happy Birthday" to Ned at Mass and gave him a cake. After Mass, many of them came up with other gifts to help us along the neously form on board.
way.
We
have to change cabins tomorrow. Our new one
down and
smaller, but at least
it's
is
an outside cabin. The
the bishop are being changed too, and we're
now
all
and
together along
the same corridor, which the crew calls "the Holy Land."
193
one deck rabbi
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&
WEDNESDAY, JANUARY
27
Long Beach, California
I
looked out of the porthole at 5:30 A.M.
into our anchorage in
Long Beach.
parking in the middle of a
city.
The
Actually,
tugs were pushing us
San Pedro.
it's
Anyway, today
is
moving
like
It's
day.
took
It
down a floor to our new cabin. 1 had a call from one of our alumni who took care of us in Mexico City, Juan Cintron. He said that they were putting us about
two hours to get
all
of our accumulated stuff
thirteen cases of wine aboard. Juan
is
joining the ship in Singapore
with fourteen of his colleagues, but he said we should
meantime
Wines,
on earth we could bathroom
in the
is
arriving here
from his company,
Inc., out of Tustin, California.
possibly get thirteen cases of
we couldn't
In fact,
wine that
to dip into the
New World
get
one
in,
since the
little
feel free in the
There
wine into
is
no way
this cabin.
wine we have
is
stashed
moment. Anyway, I think we have conned it in a comer of his storage room, tight with stored things in there at the moment.
at this
the baggagemaster into putting
although he's pretty
When we came
in to dinner
our original places on sitting
next to
aboard and
me
will
we found we were changed back
to
Who
is
the other side of the Princess Grill.
but Ruby Keeler of Hollywood fame. She just
came
be giving a lecture or two. She's getting along in years
now, but who could ever forget Ruby Keeler and her dancing? even us
hummed
Ned said that's what time when they moved us to
a couple of songs together, but
thrown out of
other end of the
this place the last grill,
not our
cigars.
We got
the
Anyway, we're back. We've
decided to give up cigar smoking in the restaurant voluntarily, even
though anyway,
it's
allowed.
as a small bit of
When we so far.
We
It's
next stop.
were planning to give up cigars for Lent penance.
leave L. A.
we
will begin the longest leg of our journey
3,561 nautical miles between here and Papeete, Tahiti, our It
will take us all of five days
194
and nights
to get there.
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
THURSDAY, JANUARY
28
At Sea
I
through the second of three sections in Bloom's The
finally got
Closing of the American Mind.
It's
very philosophical and every page
seems to be replete with Rousseau, Kant, Hegel, Nietzsche, Marx,
and Descartes, and a host of
others.
Bloom
philosophical foundations for the current state of
Again,
1
had the impression,
mind
as in the first part, that
overdoing somewhat and stroking
it
was interesting,
He
if
trying to lay the
is
difficult reading.
America.
in
he
is
probably
with too broad a brush. But really
American minds
for bringing in the nihilistic ideas of Nietzsche to
a kind of new nihilism, without
and educators and thus leading us into
and
values, without philosophical foundations that are demonstrable
even without reason, not to mention university
and I'm sure
Ned and no
1
I'll
faith.
His third part
on the
is
find that a lot easier going.
both are trying to eat
something
breakfast, lunch
it
blames Weber and Freud
as lightly as possible; practically
like today's
V8
juice, quiche,
and a
bit
of carrot cake without the frosting. Tonight we're having some Dover sole
which they bought
Mass
in Los Angeles.
in the evening before dinner.
the deck, which are a
fifth
aboard ship, unless you
even though
I
Nothing alcoholic
just did a
1
until after
number of turns around
of a mile each time.
It's
the best exercise
like riding a stationary bicycle,
which
I
don't,
once did over 3,000 miles on one, to strengthen
my
knee muscles. Ugh.
FRIDAY, JANUARY En Route
I
t
to
was overcast again today, which
29
Papeete
is
probably good for our collective
sun in the past week or
so.
There was also a bit of quartering wind out of the northeast.
At
skins, since we've
been getting a
lot of
noontime, the closest land, 600 miles to the
east,
was Cabo San
Lucas, Baja California.
This morning the rabbi, the bishop, Ned, and
who was
interested to
come
to
I
invited everyone
the Queen's Lounge,
where we
introduced ourselves and then broke up into four groups, one
195
in
each
TRAVELS WITH TED
meet some of the passengers more
comer of the room,
to get to
intimately and to get
some of them
after the others left.
talk
to
meet each
encounter came two persons with problems
little
on the South but
visiting),
it
1
had planned on going
Pacific (he's
An
under reasonable control,
other.
who
to hear
Out
of that
stayed behind
Waldemar Hansen
our onboard expert for the lands we're
seemed more important
two new "parishioners."
NED
&
hour or two
spend the time with
to
we had both
later
my
situations
thought. Always good to talk out problems
I
with a third party. 1
managed
to read the opening chapters of Robert Hughes's
Fatal Sfwre, a beautifully written
We
had a
book on
great conversation with
us a great deal about her early days in started.
The
Australia.
Ruby Keeler
New
tonight.
York and
how
She
told
her career
During the course of the conversation we decided that
all
of
the top show people are either Catholics or Jews.
The
captain,
who
spending a good deal of time on public
is
relations, introduced the rabbi tonight as Father
Ruben. He made a
good recovery, though,
saying, "I'm sorry he's not really a father, but
he
Alvin
is
a grandfather."
demotion?" All
I
said to us,
"Is
SATURDAY, JANUARY En Route
A,
.nother cloudy day as
to
we head
which
trade winds run
is
into the doldrums,
moment. We've been
less
when
is
sailing ships
first
on the northeast
The
and the stronger they
within the doldrums. That made for great
depended on the wind alone. They could
We
doldrums at about 27 knots, being now
We
believe we're about 9
traveling
sides of the doldrums,
languish here for days, even weeks.
from the
1
which extend
perfect for us because we're going southwest.
on both
wind there
blow, the difficulty
30
Papeete
10 degrees north and south of the equator. degrees north at the trade wind,
that a promotion or
could say was "We're glad to have you."
of the South Sea
are plowing through the
just a little
islands, the
over 1,000 miles
Marquesas.
lectures on the painter Paul Gauguin today, one by Waldemar Hansen and a second by an art historian on board. Both were excellent, and of particular interest now, because we're headed
had two
196
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
toward Tahiti, where Gauguin painted a
He was
lot of his pictures.
broke most of his Ufe. Ironically, his paintings
now
sell for
$40 to $50
million each.
The
farther
we
are from port, the
more
seem
activities there
to
be aboard ship. Today, in addition to the two Gauguin programs, there was a fashion show, a lecture by sports broadcaster
on how
to root for the
Chicago Cubs, a course
athletic activities, a Spanish class,
and financial planning. activities
on
me
she'll
in carving, all kinds of
lectures
on computers,
bridge,
one didn't skip about 90 percent of the would really get hectic.
cocktail party this noon,
1
met
a
woman who
told
be dead from cancer within a year or two. That makes two
such persons in two days. Both are facing
them
Elliott
If
this ship, life
At the French
and
Win
face
it
One
even better.
oneself, to cherish every day of
it
quite well.
hope
I
needs to be at peace with
and
life,
to live
helped
1
God and
each day to the
fullest,
even as we are trying to do in retirement.
SUNDAY, JANUARY En Route
'e
had some excitement
the equator, where
we
at
are at
around
New
I
1
to Papeete
noontime because we degree.
south of the equator, beginning at the South Pole.
3
1
passed
officially
From now on, everything
calculate that we'll get to 45 degrees south as
Zealand and Australia.
It's
is
degree and increasing to 90 at
we go
about the latitude of Patagonia
and southern Chile, although those places stretch another 12 degrees farther south, almost to
60 degrees.
Crossing the equator gathered
on the
aft
is
always a time for great fun.
deck by the swimming pool.
We
all
Men and women
members of the crew were brought out under guard and presented to his queen. He ordered them to kiss a dead fish,
King Neptune and
which
in this case
was a salmon, presumably from the kitchen. Then
they were doused with ketchup, mustard, eggs, whipped cream, and a variety of other
into the pool. cates saying It's
gooey concoctions, shoved into a
At the conclusion of the
festivities,
we were pollywogs, people who
about the twentieth time for me.
197
seat,
we
and dumped
all
got
certifi-
had crossed the equator.
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&
Between halves of the Super Bowl, which we had on a call that a rosary.
woman who was
When
took
I
a patient in the ship's hospital
to her
it
could see that she was
I
talked for a while and she seemed
the rosary, just praying say the least.
I
it
radio,
more
was told that her son would be
is
had
wanted a
failing.
at peace. Interesting
and moving from bead to bead
I
We
about
settling, to
flying out to Tahiti to
take her home.
MONDAY, FEBRUARY En
Route
-Loday we reached the Polynesian sweep of
triangle with is
its
triangle,
which
is
an enormous
thousands of miles across and thousands of miles
islands,
down, with three basic This
1
to Papeete
divisions, raainly ethnic.
New
points in Hawaii,
Imagine an enormous
Zealand, and Easter Island.
the Polynesian triangle, Polynesian meaning
The people here have
a very similar culture
"many
islands."
and are generally
lighter-
skinned and with black wavy hair. T) the west of Polynesia Melanesia, also a Greek word, meaning
people are darker and have
frizzy hair.
of course, west of Polynesia,
We
islands."
Moorea
will
is
"black islands."
is
Here the
To the north of Melanesia and,
Micronesia, the Greek word for "small
be visiting Polynesia, which contains Tahiti and
in the Society Islands,
Raro tonga in the Cook
under French
Islands, related to-
political control,
New
Zealand.
We
and were
originally scheduled to go to Fiji, but because of political unrest there
we
are going instead to Rarotonga.
which can be designated by great islands of Australia
and
To the south of
a generic
New
all
these islands,
name, Oceania,
lie
Zealand, with the smaller island of
Tasmania below Australia to the south of Melbourne in the Victoria.
Many
of these islands are
are related to Australia,
New
the two
now independent
state of
countries; others
Zealand, France, England, or the United
States.
198
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
TUESDAY, FEBRUARY
2
Papeete, Tahiti
I
looked out the porthole at 7 A.M. and already we were entering
the harbor of Papeete, skirting the its
reef.
Moorea was miles behind
joined by the narrow isthmus of Tarawa, which gives
it
a real figure-
eight shape. After looking at the rolling sea for six nights
morning
early
sky.
was reminded of the
I
my
1969 with Doc Kenna,
whole island visit
and
five
those volcanoes look startling and very beautiful against the
days,
in
us,
volcanic top rising up out of the sea. Tahiti has two volcanoes
tour,
first
time
I
came
provincial. Because
I
It
was
had done the
didn't take the tour this morning.
I
here.
It is
the
first
here for Ned, however, so he went.
About 10 A.M., which
is
I
left
a couple of miles
the ship and started to walk into Papeete,
from the dock.
It
was about 100 degrees in
the shade and there wasn't any shade along that dockside road.
wasn't sure
would make
I
it,
because
it
kept getting hotter and hotter
and the black asphalt didn't help any expensive.
I
either.
Everything
is
very
stopped at the bank to change twenty dollars into
I
Polynesian francs and had to pay a three-dollar service charge on the transaction.
A mai tai,
Around noon,
I
a tropical drink, cost eight dollars.
met some people from the
to have lunch together at a little
French restaurant
Everything was wonderful until the us.
A
bit
bill
we decided up on a hilltop.
ship and
—$250
arrived
for the five of
much, even considering that we had a round of mai
addition to the wine.
I
had planned
to take
Ned
tais in
out for dinner at one
of the reefside French restaurants this evening, but after a look at the prices, last
we decided
year and
prices have
it
is
to stay
on
board. Tourism declined 30 percent here
supposed to go even lower this year. Perhaps the
something to do with
dollar. Despite the prices,
it,
or perhaps this reflects the falling
however, there's no denying that this
is
one
of the most charming and exotic places in the world.
A lot of Tahitians came aboard tonight to put on a cultural show on the top deck. The music was
so-so
and the dancing was
typical hip
gyrating, the Tahitian equivalent of Egyptian belly dancing,
which
are
more
evening with a vault.
The
athletic than aesthetic.
full
moon and
was
a lovely
down from
the black
However,
bright stars shining
it
night sky out here has a very special charm.
199
both of
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&
WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY
3
Moorea
e left Papeete
around 6 A.M. and crossed to Moorea. The bay
here was immortalized in the musical South
and
Pacific,
easy to
it's
understand why. Moorea has to be one of the most enchanting islands in the
South
With
Pacific.
coconut palms, banana
an
idyllic place.
Like
many
glistening white beaches, fringed by
its
trees,
and high serrated mountains,
of
its sister
islands,
it
it is
bom
was
truly
about six
million years ago as a huge volcano.
Ned
early
left
on the
launches about an hour
launch than
man
I
tour and
official
later.
I
I
went
in with
one of our
had no sooner disembarked from the
spotted four Americans getting into an outrigger.
was a Frenchman.
at the tiller
going, but since
had no
I
plans,
asked them
I
The
had no idea where they were
I
if
they had
room
for
one more. The Frenchman called out a friendly "out" and welcomed
me
aboard.
The
four
was a Parisian
Americans were two
named
Oliver.
his wife seven years ago
using
all
we
The Frenchman
me he had come
conch
shell
woman came
as close as
to Tahiti with
and had reconstructed an entire native
now me,
to visit
At each
sailed along the coast.
take out a village a
retired couples.
told
the original materials and native craftsmen.
the four Americans, and reef as
He
and blow
it
to
it.
village,
He was
taking
Oliver stayed inside the
village
we
he would
passed,
announce our
arrival.
At one
out and waved. Oliver brought the outrigger in
he could, then jumped out, waded ashore, and carried the
woman back
to the boat.
When we
reached the
two stout
village,
workers came out and did the carrying. Oliver took us
all
around the village to show us how the Tahitians
coconut tree and threw down some them open, then drank the milk and ate the meat. Both were delicious. Next came one of those Polynesian dancing shows, which always anesthetize me. 1 managed to stay awake, but I was glad when it was over. After the dancing we strolled along lived.
He even climbed
fresh green coconuts.
the beach.
It
a sixty-foot
We
split
was a great spur-of-the-moment outing, but
I
was glad
to get back to the ship and shower after spending the morning in 100-
degree heat.
200
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
THURSDAY, FEBRUARY En Route
to
JL he highlight of today's shipboard Second
Street,
was a showing of Forty-
activities
with an introduction by Ruby Keeler. She told us that
was not only her
this
4
Rarotonga
first
movie but
also the
first
movie of her co-
Dick Powell. They made fourteen more movies together
star,
that, so the
box
office return
way Ruby
see the
practically
was obviously very good.
had
to be carried
on and
It
after
was sad to
off the stage;
sadder yet to realize that she was once the sparkling young tap dancer in the movie. all.
She was
a real trouper to endure the awkwardness of
on the human body. But
of time
lesson from Ruby's indomitable
old
it
I'm sure her presence must have reminded everyone of the ravages
same time, we could
at the
spirit.
all
take a
She was the embodiment of the
show business adage that the show must go on.
FRIDAY. FEBRUARY Rarotonga
Th
his
supposed to be the most beautiful of the
is
Cook
Islands,
named after the famous captain who first discovered them The fifteen islands in the group are scattered over a vast expanse of 850,000 square miles. Fewer than 20,000 people live on which
are
in the 1770s.
the islands, and about half of them, most of live in
when
Rarotonga.
The
whom
are Polynesians,
islands belonged to the British until 1901,
they turned them over to
New
Zealand. In 1965, they became
internally self-governing, although they are, in fact, a kind of protectorate of affairs,
Zealand, which takes care of their defense and foreign
and provides certain
actually
the
New
more Cook
Cook
We
subsidies,
Islanders living in
as well as jobs.
New
There are
Zealand than there are in
Islands.
woke up
Rarotonga
reef.
going ashore.
just before
the ship reached
its
After breakfast, we boarded the
anchorage outside first
ship's tender
Two things struck me right away: how friendly the how clean the town was. 1 found out later that
people were and cleanliness officially
is
taken very seriously here. Every house on the island
inspected every three months.
201
If it is
is
not clean and well
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&
the occupants receive a fine and a mention in the local
kept,
newspaper, as well as on the radio.
Ned and
visited the local Catholic
I
we met Father
Paul Farmer, a
New
church and school, where
Zealander, and a friend of John
who
Mackay, the former Bishop of Auckland,
is
Notre
a
Father Farmer had us talk to his high school students,
the middle of a geometry well in school
and come
class.
tried to persuade
1
Dame Ph.D. who were in
them
to
Dame. I'm reasonably
to Notre
do very
sure that
come to Notre Dame from here. name means "down south" is oval-shaped. The
we've never had a student
—
Rarotonga, the
whole island in
it
is
surrounded by a coral
where ships can
enter.
One
is
reef,
but there are two openings
near the town of Avarua.
The
other, to the south, has a beautiful sandy beach with a ring of very
small islands outside
We is
it.
drove around the entire circumference of the island, which
a journey of about nineteen miles.
It's
covered with jagged volcanic
peaks interspersed with deep valleys and tropical beautiful tropical flowers everywhere, mostly red
hibiscus
and frangipani, both of which come
different varieties.
and on
In gardens
laden with breadfruit,
erel,
and mullet
sees
and yellow, such
in
more than
large farms there
bananas, and pineapples. There
They catch mainly
off the south coast of the island.
One
forest.
inside the coral reef. Fortunately,
is
as
fifteen
were trees
good
fishing
snapper, mack-
most of the sharks
stay outside.
We built in
also visited the island's
first
Christian church, which was
1835 and has some very interesting tombstones, both in
On our way back to
Polynesian and in quaint English.
we stopped
at the
Rarotongan
the anchorage,
resort hotel, very tropical
and very
nice. There we saw an hourlong show by some local singers and
They began with a prayer and ended by singing the Our Father in Polynesian, which was very beautiful indeed. On the whole,
dancers.
it
was the best performance we've seen so
As on
the other islands
Society got an early start
There
are, of course.
priests are rather rare.
we have
far.
seen, the
London Missionary
and most of the people are Protestants.
Catholic churches on
all
of these islands, but
There were none on Moorea, although there
were two Catholic churches there.
We
202
met
a
young seminarian here
THEODORE He
today.
HESBURGH
M.
told us that there are about a
seminary in
Fiji, all
Just to give
from
some
men
hundred young
in the
this vast area of small islands.
idea of
where we
are in relation to other places
we have been and ago,
are heading for: Papeete, which we left two days 816 miles east-northeast of here. Auckland, to which we now
is
head,
2,155 miles south-southwest of here. Sydney
is
southwest, and Tokyo
is
isolated little island far
own and
from everywhere, but
3,699 miles is
indeed an
has a beauty
all its
a kind of peace that can't be found in cities. In the
whole
history of the islands, only five murders have rare,
is
6,810 miles northwest. This it
been recorded.
are
Jails
and those they do have allow prisoners to go home on weekends
to be with their families.
We tonight.
Sunday
have an interesting theological problem for Friday Mass
There won't be any Saturday, since we jump from Friday at
midnight crossing the international date
Does Friday night Mass count
for
Sunday?
1
say
it
does
line. if
to
Question:
you're passing
the date line and losing Saturday entirely. But the question
is
largely
academic, because most of our 100-plus parishioners will come to
Mass again on Sunday anyway.
SUNDAY, FEBRUARY En
u
Route
to
Auchland
ed was up early this morning for Sunday morning Mass.
me
in time
night.
last
tells
Keeping up with local time becomes quite a
problem because the international date is
He
he had a good congregation too, despite another half-hour change
not exactly
at the
here they stretch
it
180th meridian
all
line,
170 degrees,
England, from which
180 degrees
is
all
today,
Out
the way north and south.
10 degrees east so that
can be within the same time zone. Thus we date line at
which we crossed
Fiji
and the Tonga Islands
will cross the international
rather than at
180.
From Greenwich,
time and longitudinal lines are reckoned,
exactly halfway around the world.
We
are
now
a bit
more than 25 degrees south of the equator, going through the Tropic of Capricorn.
Today we watched O'Hara's Wife, a prize-winning film by Bartman,
who
Bill
eats at the table next to ours in the Princess Grill.
203
It
TRAVELS WITH TED me
provided
with a closing thought for
was so well done generally that
Dame
to advise us
we
dinner,
and
Bill's film
come
to Notre
Her
and
left
arm
and some help from
us,
she
left leg
quite well.
had some rain
this afternoon
rain we've seen since leaving
spectacular, as
was
it
all
and evening.
New
summer and
we can count the bad days on the
been many blessings on
practically the
It's
The weather when we were
has been
York. fall
through the West in the United States and far,
to
singers were performing. Because of
difficulty in walking.
are almost useless, but with her cane
We
him
on films for the International Peace Institute. After Ruby Keeler down to the theater lounge, where
her stroke, she has great
first
homily tonight.
I've invited
escorted
four Australian- Irish players
managed
my
NED
&
later in Latin
fingers of
traveling
America. So
one hand. There have good weather
this trip, but the incredibly
stands out.
MONDAY, FEBRUARY En Route
to
8
Auckland
e passed 30 degrees south early this morning.
winds
for the
just off
first
By 9 A.M. the
time switched around to west-southwest, hitting us
our port bow. We've had helping trade winds thus
we're in the variables, where
winds. We've
we
come some 1,046
will probably pick
far,
but
miles since leaving Rarotonga a day
and a half ago, leaving us 565 miles yet to go to the Bay of
which
is
outside Auckland,
worked up
all
is
602 pages of It
it.
deck
for a
1
few rounds this morning.
about 76 degrees and heading up toward 80.
finally finished
system."
Islands,
Zealand. Despite the strong wind,
a sweat just walking the
The temperature 1
New
now
up some head
It
Robert Hughes's The Fatal Shore is
a brilliant history of
ended on January
10,
this
morning,
what was called "the
1868, eighty years to the
since Captain Arthur Philip brought the
first
convict
fleet
month to
its
anchorage in Sydney Cove. Over 160,000 convicts, in fact lifelong slaves,
were shipped to Australia, 45,000 of them being
Irish political
They were sent to Australia because American independence prevented them from being sent to America. The system had a deep effect on the history of Australia. At its prisoners.
204
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
centenary in 1888, the country buried that part of
first
No
celebrated the future. optimistic about
We
when
doubt Australians
past
its
and
have even more to be
will
they celebrate their second century shortly.
Americans have our own sad memories of
slavery. Legally
it
began to end, in the South, in 1863 with Lincoln's Emancipation Proclamation. But it did not end institutionally until the Civil Rights
Act of 1964, better than
on
of our system linger
in the
is
revolution in
I
am
America was
we
sure all
long-term
its
This
will.
and
But we
effects.
what the
is
civil rights
about during the 1960s.
TUESDAY, FEBRUARY En Route
9
Auckland
to
I spent most of the morning on deck reading Bloom. sailing
effects
of our black
institutionalized injustice
not easy for the victims to escape
must keep trying and
many
plight of so
population. Slavery, white or black, it's
Even today the painful
a century later.
was beautiful
It
weather because there was intermittent sunshine behind high
clouds with a nice breeze. Also, there were lots of islands in view
once we approached the Bay of
New
As we
Zealand.
left
Islands.
It
was our
the bay and headed into a
New
coasted along the northeastern shore of
Auckland Harbor. There were many
contact with
first
new channel, we
Zealand,
all
the way to
islands strung out along our path,
mostly rugged and rocky. At noontime today, we assembled
Notre their
Dame alumni
happy years
hopes for the I
at
for a cocktail party.
They
Notre Dame, and Ned and
The Closing of
the
American Mind.
that the million-odd people
must
1
say,
who bought
is
somewhat overdone
find a great deal of resonance I
am
familiar with
at state universities.
it
I
them
in
on our
I
is
copy of Bloom's it
hard to believe
book
As
I
really read
mentioned
university today,
think, exaggerated. life,
its
is
205
I
couldn't
teaching and
Notre Dame. Perhaps
Bloom himself
it,
earlier,
at intellectual life in
on the
with university at
my
find
this
he looks
as
which
today. His third section,
was quite well done, although again,
values, as
reminisced about
filled
lunch with
after
especially the long central philosophical part.
America
the
fiiture.
was back on deck right
his analysis
all
I
all
it's
different
at the fine private University of
TRAVELS WITH TED Chicago. In any event, I'm glad
I
NED
&
read the book.
did raise
It
some
important questions.
We came
into
body was on deck
Auckland Harbor about
as
5 P.M. Just about every-
we made the long approach,
twisting
and turning
in the channel. Thousands of boats, large and small, had turned out
to
meet
the
us, plus airplanes
South
Island.
length.
exactly
helicopters. Obviously, the arrival of
Between them, the two
islands are over 1,000 miles in
They are located 1,400 miles southeast of Australia and midway between the equator and the South Pole. The Dutch-
man Tasman found New Captain James Cook
Zealand in 1642, but
in 1769.
find a continent in the
had
and
QE2 is considered quite an event in this part of the world. New Zealand is made up of two large islands, North Island and
it
was rediscovered by
This was part of Cook's commission to
South
was
Pacific. It
just
assumed that there
to be one, because the earth could not otherwise have stayed in
balance.
After
Cook had mapped New
Australia, specifically at
Botany Bay, which was the landing point of
subsequent convict ships.
than trip
Villiers's
he found
Zealand's outlines,
I
can't think of any story
account of Cook's two voyages, which
I
more exciting read
on my
first
out this way in 1969.
When
the settlers
first
came
they met the Polynesian
here,
who had been here since the middle of the fourteenth century. New Zealand became an independent dominion in 1907 and a member of the British Commonwealth in 1931. The population of New Zeala-^d is 3.3 million. Of that number, more than 800,000 live Maoris,
in
Auckland and about 342,000
the population
is
Most of
in Wellington, the capital.
European, although 8 percent are Maori, descen-
As
dants of the original inhabitants.
to religion,
29 percent are
Anglican, 18 percent Presbyterian, and 15 percent Catholic. There are
and
more sheep on these fruit
crops and catch
islands fish.
than people. They also grow grain
Big
game
fishing
Some
the 144 islands of the Bay of Islands.
is
very good
among
of the largest black marlin
in the world are caught here.
After dinner tonight, for several blocks. It
coats.
The QE2
Ned and
I
took a walk along the dockside
was quite warm, and we both had to shed our
looks even bigger than
it
harbor silhouetted against the city skyline.
206
is
when you
see
it
in the
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
Auckland has grown tremendously since my last visit here 1969. There are new buildings everywhere one looks, and derricks
in
to
mark the locations of yet others under construction. The city is often to Corinth, because it is built on an isthmus between the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean. This port is so large that it could compared
easily
accommodate
We I
in early.
whole
flotilla
of the world's navies
returned to the ship around 10 P.M.
caught up on
sail
a
Ned went
all at
once.
to the movies.
worked on tomorrow's homily, and turned Tomorrow several hundred Australians will come aboard to this diary,
on the QE2 back
to
Sydney
as part of the Bicentennial celebration
of Australia.
WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY New
Auckland,
JL his was a day to remember.
we had arranged Jack Sloane. in
common,
He
I
Zealand
was up
turned out to be a Marist Father.
are Catholic, but that
we went
A.M. on the nose because
in philosophy at
many
of
them
Notre 1
had something
Dame
after the war.
I
5 percent of New Zealanders
live in
Auckland.
were off the ship around ten and met Meredith, our driver, provided by Coca-Cola. to the
museum.
It
Then began
a very busy day. First,
presents everything from the history of the
Maoris to both world wars to English furniture that,
We
since his former Superior General, Father Joe Buckley,
learned from Father Jack that only about
We
at 8
a breakfast with the Catholic port chaplain. Father
had obtained a Ph.D.
who was
10
—you name
it.
After
to Mount Eden, where one can see the whole city Then we went to the aquarium to see a wide range especially a lot of sharks and stingrays. Then it was back into
we went up
in all directions.
of
fish,
the city for lunch at the top of one of the tallest buildings. There
were great views in
all
directions.
After lunch, we bought some jade stones, looked at a pair of kiwis in the zoo, toured the university, and prayed at the Catholic cathedral.
We
then visited Mount Victoria, from which one gets
another whole perspective of the bays, the harbor, and buildings in Auckland. After crossing the bridge,
new housing
section to the north of Auckland,
207
all
of the
which opened up a we went to another
TRAVELS WITH TED mountain spot where again we had
NED
&
a wonderful vista of the
whole
city, the bay, and the harbor. About this time, it occurred to us that we had twenty minutes to get back to the ship if we were going to sail on her. There were a few tense moments getting back across the bridge, but we finally made it with about four minutes tospare. It
was
my turn to preach tonight
on the obtuse
A
spirit.
lot
and, believe
it
or not,
I
preached
of the people aboard, given their age, are
worried about death and dying, retirement and inactivity, loss of
power, etc.
It is
of the obtuse I
brought
ship
the
but
left
my
it
to categorize under the concept
best shot.
no one
least,
I
have no idea whether
fell asleep.
began to sway from
we encountered the
and the ship
Pacific swell
side to side. This will probably go
arrive at the entrance to
on
As we rounded
to sea like a pack of sheep dogs.
of the bay,
windiest place
much
too
gave
Auckland Harbor, hundreds of boats surrounded the
and ran her out
comer
all
I
At
off or not.
it
As we
probably
spirit,
on
until
we
Wellington Harbor tomorrow, arguably the
earth. Also,
we have
a 20-knot following sea
from
the northeast, which creates a low swell and gives the ship a constant
rocking motion, but thankfriUy a
mild one.
fairly
THURSDAY, FEBRUARY En
I
Route
WeUington
spent two and one-half hours on deck today reading Ministry, a
new book by
Father Dick McBrien, then chairman of Notre Dame's
theology department.
I
found
it
very balanced and quite helpful. Like
everything else that Dick writes,
When all
to
11
it is
one considers the history of ministry
of the permutations in
to live in
its
in the early
conduct over the centuries,
an age when the Church
is
and
wonderfrilly clear
beginning to see
service to the
Kingdom and the people
Church. We're
all
part of the people of
of
God
God who
orderly.
Church and
it's
wonderful
its
mission as
constitute the
—the people
in the pews,
the ordained ministers and bishops, even the Pope. Lest
I
forget to
mention
it,
Ned
has been doing
yeoman
service
in keeping our bills straight, doing a great deal of telexing to spots
ahead where we hope to meet the alumni, and generally keeping our
208
THEODORE affairs in order.
CPA
and
I
much
He's
better at this than
we came
this afternoon,
Cook
Wellington Harbor,
greet us, including three
am. But then, he
is
a
and sprayed water
Midwest and, believe
in the
ocean and was not known it
boats
fire It
it
or not, as
was nice to get
came out
was a very
for dinner.
in the
It's
it
e were
up reasonably early
to
become
an eating it
this
a very popular fish
here.
It lives
deep
fish until fairly recently.
right here
New
into the harbor
festive occasion.
comes from
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY Wellington,
came out
one from Spain, one from Poland,
in all directions.
had orange roughy
very good and
into the narrow entrance to
Bay. Hundreds of small craft
tall ships,
and one from Ecuador. Also, two
It's
I
don't even count well.
About 4:30
We
HESBURGH
M.
where
it is
caught.
12
Zealand
morning, again to a bright, sunny
Once
we were taken in tow by a representative from the Coca-Cola organization. First we went west out of Wellington and then north along the west coast. About twenty-five to thirty miles out, we climbed a mountain above a town called Paekakiriki. From there, we could see south across the strait to day as well as a hot and humid one.
South Island about twenty or
way tomorrow on our way Milford Sound.
We
saw a
again
thirty miles away. We'll be passing this
to the west coast of
South Island and
rough country populated mainly by
lot of
sheep, goats, and horses, plus large areas that had been reforested.
Coming back Victoria Hill,
could see the
we went through the town and up to the best view of the city. From there we
into Wellington,
which
QE2
offers
swinging at
its
moorings, plus the magnificent bay
which we entered yesterday afternoon.
much
We couldn't help noticing how
the scene resembled San Francisco, with bright white houses
climbing up the green-clad
hills
and many smaller bays going inland
from the main harbor. The only element missing was the Golden
Gate Bridge. Shortly after noon, our driver dropped us off at the residence of
Cardinal William, sive.
We
whom we
found to be young, bright, and progres-
enjoyed a traditional lamb dinner, followed by a three-hour
conversation
on
things both ecclesiastical and secular. This
209
is
really a
TRAVELS WITH TED remote part of the world, about
and
as far
NED
&
away from
Rome
from many other centers of action. The New Zealand government prohibits U.S.
one can get
as
far
warships from
entering the harbor because of the nuclear weapons they carry. Yet
during our short stay here
we discovered
ANZUS,
the Australian,
New
that
New
don't agree with the ban, nor with
many New
Zealanders
Zealand's dropping out of
Zealand, U.S. mutual defense group.
Most were aware that the United States saved New Zealand during
World War
II
—and would probably have
New
necessary.
to save
it
again
if it
became
Zealand's military consists of a navy with thirty
smallish ships, an army of a few thousand, and an air force of ten
outdated airplanes. In any event, this visited.
It's
when you
really
is
one of the most
amazing
friendly places
how good-natured New
we have
Zealanders are
consider that they have to pay $130,000 for a modest house,
24 percent interest on mortgages, and impossible
taxes,
such as the
50 percent tax on American automobiles.
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY En Route
We e
awoke
to
13
Milford Sound
to another slightly overcast day, about 75 to
80 degrees
on deck, but getting warmer. The sea is calm. There is only a slight 5 -knot wind coming in from the east. We are cruising down the west coast of South Island, having come almost 500 miles since leaving Wellington
last night.
We're moving along at 28.5 knots.
This morning we passed Mount Cook. At about 12,000 the highest point in
New
Zealand.
feet,
it is
As we made our way down
the
coast toward Milford Sound, the coastline was about twenty miles off
our port side, very mountainous, like the coast of Chile, with some
snowcapped peaks
as well.
Rudyard Kipling called Milford Sound the eighth wonder of the world.
It
was formed many millions of years ago when the sea flooded
a giant glacial valley.
It's
really a fjord that
peak over a mile high. Pembroke Peak
is
is
even a
dominated by a miter bit higher.
From
these
two peaks, precipitous rock walls plunge deeply into the water. The
210
THEODORE water
deep
180 feet deep
is
at
HESBURGH
M.
at the entrance to the
sound and 1,680
feet
head.
its
Fog descended down off the peaks, along with
rain,
as
we
approached the head of the sound. Nevertheless, we were able to make out the Milford Sound Hotel and most of the outstanding sights along the way.
Norwegian
The
scenery was quite spectacular,
When we
fjords.
much
reached the middle of the
like
the
fjord,
we
turned around and retraced our route. At 45 degrees south, Milford
Sound
the farthest south
is
world, although we'll
come
we
will sail
on our journey
close to this latitude as
across the
we round the
bottom of Australia near Melbourne.
Two pastoral consultations took about an hour and a half today. With this many people and particularly the age group, which seems to average
lems
—
around
one encounters
sixty-five,
but opportunities too.
Ned and
a wide variety of prob-
about, even
if
they have no need for our services. Cardinal Suahard of
Paris expressed
it
very well,
can have merely by being presence." say, "Just
on our know what we're
generally wear a cross
I
coat collars, as military chaplains do, so people will
Or
as
my
1
think,
He
visible.
when he spoke called
it
of the effect one
"the apostolate of one's
old Holy Cross friend Charley Sheedy used to
being there helps."
SUNDAY, FEBRUARY En Route
to
14
Sydney
JLhere was a considerable weather disturbance about 300 miles south of us and, as a
result,
we picked up some heavy
the night. Even in moderately heavy evenly, although
when being
We
hit
it
at
The Sunday Gospel
side, as
happened today.
both the morning and afternoon tells
of Christ curing the leper, so
decided to preach on the Sacrament of Reconciliation to say, Confession.
swells during
this ship rides pretty
has a tendency to sway a bit from side to side
by waves on starboard or port
had good attendance
Masses today.
swells,
We
collected about
and two Sunday Masses, which
is
not bad.
$350 It all
at
or, as
our Saturday night
goes to the Apostolate
of the Sea, an international organization that has houses for
211
I
we used
seamen
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&
and helps them when they're
in almost every major port
in trouble,
besides providing spiritual care.
MONDAY, FEBRUARY
15
Sydney, Australia
A.
.t
about 6:30
morning, we were already heading through the
this
massive rocks that mark the kilometer-and-a-half entrance into Syd-
ney Harbor. This has to be one of the greatest harbors in the world.
There great
are twenty-one square miles of enclosed anchorage, including a
number of small bays This
is
full
of private sailing yachts.
the most cosmopolitan of
larger population,
3.4 million, than
Australian
all all
of
New
cities.
It
has a
Zealand, yet the
people enjoy a whole range of outdoor activities not normally associated with large
cities.
There
are, for
example,
fifty-four
beaches along
the various shores of the harbor bays.
We
had lunch
above the
which lunch,
which
We
city.
at the top of the Needle,
settled
soars 1,000 feet
on lamb and the local red wine, both of and we weren't disappointed. After
are highly regarded here,
we is
as beautiful as
We made
a large English
visited the cathedral,
great English
any cathedral on earth.
Gothic cathedrals
I've seen,
and
Gothic building,
It
certainly equals the
I've
seen a lot of them.
a brief stop at the botanical garden, then walked around the
campus of the University of Sydney, the here in town.
one
which
sees at
Its
central building
is
best of the three universities
very reminiscent of the buildings
Oxford and Cambridge.
Ned had caught
two before we arrived here and
a cold a day or
wasn't feeling well, so our driver dropped
him back
at the ship.
I
continued on to Bondi Beach, which has the best combers in the world for surfing. the
name
1
had our
driver,
of the place where the
ooloo," which
I
Sam, stop
Navy
is
at a sign that displayed
quartered.
took to be an Aboriginal word.
famous Sydney Clamshell Opera House, which yards from where
we
are docked.
is
It
said
We
"Woolloom-
also visited the
only a few hundred
Besides the Taj Mahal,
it
will
probably turn out to be one of the most photographed buildings in the world.
It
was designed by a Danish architect who estimated that
212
THEODORE it
HESBURGH
M.
would cost about $15 million
to build.
ended up costing $112
It
million.
There was an enormous party
Mass tonight
after
Among
Australian Bicentennial celebration.
as part of the
the several hundred
important people on hand was a large complement of government and the U.S. ambassador to Australia. Needless to say, the
officials
cocktails were flowing ship's
and there were
special banquets in
each of the
dining rooms, followed by entertainment and a dance,
all
very
formal.
TUESDAY, FEBRUARY
16
Sydney, Australia
up
e were
were
still
It's
5:30 this morning, even though at midnight we
watching the Bicentennial fireworks
By
fantastic.
at
7
A.M. we were off to Canberra, by
only a thirty-minute
Australian capital.
flight
is
a pretty
good
Aboriginal
title for
about halfway between Sydney and Melbourne.
on the inland is
from Sydney to Canberra, the
The name Canberra comes from an
word meaning "the meeting place," Canberra
which was
display,
air this time.
a capital.
It's
located
Mountains, the coastal range here, and
side of the Blue
the largest inland city in Australia.
On
we passed the Royal based on the West Point
the way into town from the airport,
Military College, which, interestingly,
model rather than Sandhurst
and one would expect Sandhurst asked General Kitchener to
recommended West Point
is
in England. Everything here
a planning report
as the best
model. Besides
English
However, they
to be the model.
make
is
on
this,
it
and he
one has the
impression that Australians favor Americans over the British because
we came
to their defense during
World War
II.
Australia was not federalized until 1901. Until then, each of the states
was a separate colony of England.
worldwide competition to
lay
1957,
when
1912,
there was a
out a federal capital for the country.
The winner was an American, Walter architect from Chicago.
In
Nothing
really
Burley Griffin, a landscape
happened
after that until
a commission was finally appointed to proceed with the
construction.
What we
saw today was what was done since then.
213
TRAVELS WITH TED Ironically,
though
NED
&
was followed, none of
Griffin's overall layout
One of the biggest things dammed up to create some
the buildings he designed was ever built. that Griffin did was to get the rivers artificial
lakes around the capital.
of which are already built and the fourth
satellite cities, three
abuilding.
The
Also, his plan called for four
now
only private dwelling in the federal district proper
is
the house of the Anglican archbishop.
After a quick trip around the
where they Spain.
city,
raise the best of all sheep, the
we went
to Tralee Station,
merino, which comes from
Bernard Morrison, the manager, showed us
how
to
throw
boomerangs and how to guide sheep dogs that control the sheep. The dogs are very important because there are 160 million sheep here in Australia. Believe
or not, a single dog can control 1,000 sheep!
it
Before leaving the ranch
we had
a marvelous barbecued steak. After
only a continental breakfast, followed by several hours of touring,
it
really hit the spot.
Our next stop was the new Parliament dedicated by Queen Elizabeth on May 7 of seven and one-half years to build it. Once competition.
A
New
The
building
describe, so a tidy
sum
I
won't
for a
said the
is
truly spectacular.
It
will
be
took them
again, there was a big
try,
except to say that
New
York firm deserved to
But
it
it
is
also difficult to
cost over a billion dollars,
country of 16 million people.
Another impressive all
this year.
which
York firm submitted the winning design, and
most of the people we talked to win.
building,
the Australians
who
sight
was the War Memorial, which honors
fought in wars going back to World
War
I.
Australia suffered almost a quarter of a million casualties in these wars, a terrible price for any country
and
all
the more so for a small
one.
At the end of this busy
day,
we rushed
to the airport, caught the
plane back to Sydney, and reboarded the ship bite to eat before the
right time, given the wonderful choice of food I
trust
it
will help to
just in
Mardi Gras celebration. Lent
keep us in fighting trim.
214
is
time to grab a
coming
and drink on
at the
this ship.
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
ASH WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY En Route
to
JL oday was uneventful compared with yesterday. hours reading
Andy
17
Melbourne
I
spent about three
Greeley's Patience of a Saint.
about 500 miles from Sydney to Melbourne and another 500
It's
from Melbourne to Adelaide. That gives us the better part of twentyfour hours at sea on both this leg and the next one. I also did a lot of walking the deck and thinking about afternoon. Since this
penance.
And
I
is
also have to decide
Lent. You can't preach
Ned had about hundred
it if
a
what
am
1
Mass
this
Mass
for
talk about the
I'll
need
this
for
going to give up for
it.
morning and
had
I
close to a
Father D'Arcy also concelebrated with us
good number of the people who
the world cruise, as he
are repeaters
on
is.
was a nice day
It
my sermon
you don't practice
fifty at
this afternoon.
He knows
today.
Ash Wednesday,
for
walking the deck and reading outside
because the weather has been in the 60s, not too windy, and a very
moderate swell on the water.
who
are very irregular in their
ashes
on
blessed
their foreheads
on the
me how
has always amazed
It
people
church attendance never miss receiving
on Ash Wednesday
Feast of St. Blaise.
It
or getting their throats
really brings
everybody out of the
woodwork. 1
one good resolution
told the congregation that
be to come to Mass every day, since ship.
I
it is
for
Lent would
so convenient here
on the
submitted that they would find giving up food and drink
difficult,
given the
menu and nine
bishop came by to receive ashes on his
morning.
Then he took some
The Anglican forehead from Ned this
bars aboard this ship.
of our ashes for his service at 10:30
A.M., since he didn't have any. We're really ecumenical here.
THURSDAY, FEBRUARY
18
Melbourne, Australia
I
t
was another bright, sunny, and quite warm day
Melbourne. This
is
as
we
arrived in
the second- largest city in Australia, with a popu-
lation of almost 3 million.
It
has been described as stately, sedate.
215
TRAVELS WITH TED and snobbish. an
It is
also
an important financial and commercial center,
and
arbiter of artistic
of three universities.
If
Sydney
the
is
New
the city has begun to lose some of
its
its
York or London or Paris of Boston. At the same time,
stodginess.
glass-and-steel skyscrapers than there were
nineteen years ago,
Once
again,
we went
There are many more
when
as well as large influxes of
and other Ethnic groups, who have helped began our tour
and the home
cultural values for Australia,
Melbourne would have to be
Australia,
NED
&.
I
here
last visited
Greeks, Italians, Turks,
to liven things up.
Coca-Cola furnished us with a car and
driver.
We
War Memorial, which overlooks the city. Then Como, a house built by an Englishman who made
at the
to see
fortunes in wool both in England and in Australia. Next
came the
minimum of a million money here comes from either sheep or gold. At the conservatory we saw some wonderful multicolored begonias and had lunch at Fitzroy Gardens. As we were walking along a path on the way to the restaurant, we turned back to the car to pull our jackets out of a bag we were carrying. While we were putting them on, a giant limb came crashing down on the exact spot where we would have been walking had we not stopped. That stroke of good high-rent district of Tborak, where houses cost a apiece.
The
luck, or
old
God's mercy, was
under a branch
at Fitzroy
Cook's house here.
It
all
that prevented our trip from ending
Gardens in Melbourne.
was transported
all
We also saw Captain
the way from Yorkshire,
stone by stone, and reassembled in the park.
We
continued our tour with a
visit to
the University of Mel-
bourne. This university of 18,000 enrollment includes lege,
which used
to be for
to be for
men, and
St.
Newman
Col-
Mary's College, which used
women. Now both are coeducational, with about 250 no Catholic colleges per se in Australia.
students each. There are
Instead, they follow the English system of having Catholic houses at
the state universities.
We
learned from the rector of Newman College,
Father Bill Uren, a Jesuit, that there are also Catholic houses at the universities in Brisbane, Sydney, Adelaide,
are run
by the
Jesuits,
who keep
and
Perth.
Most of them
three or four priests there for tutoring
help and program direction. They also have chapels with daily Mass.
Today was the twentieth anniversary of my mother's death, so we offered
Mass
for her today, as well as for
eight years dead in ten days, and
my 216
my
sister
dad,
who
will
be twenty-
Mary and her husband, Al
THEODORE Lyons, both of
whom
HESBURGH
M.
—Mary
died at this time of year too
in January
twenty-nine years ago and Al in early February nine years ago.
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY En
e
woke up
this
Route
morning
to
19
Adelaide
to a quite
high sea with the wind coming
out of the southwest at about 25 knots an hour, hitting us on the port quarter as
we headed almost due
We've been riding about twelve
and intend
to fifteen miles off the coast
so
west.
we can touch the harbor of
to
come
Portland,
in closer at
which
is
putting
noontime
on
a big
They want us to at least make an appearance. The temperature is about 60 degrees because we are right on the edge of the Roaring 40s, our present position being celebration for the Australian Bicentennial.
about 39 degrees south. this
It
took some doing to walk the deck
really
morning with the starboard
side soaking
wet and the port side
wind that almost kept one from walking forward. One
sporting a
just
leaned into the wind and pumped.
We
new book
of their tugs and vessels,
came out to meet us tooting their horns as we help them celebrate their Bicentennial. I started
flags,
slowly cruised by to a
Many
passed Portland at noon.
decorated with
this afternoon,
Mikhail Gorbachev's
Perestroika.
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY
20
Adelaide, Australia
A,
.round 10 A.M., we
Kay Kelly Lindberg, and
a
left
Notre
the ship and met our guide for the day,
Dame
master of
arts in
a student at St. Mary's College before that.
brother are also Notre
Dame
grads. In town,
the class of 1964
Her father and her
we met her husband,
Janis, a Latvian.
The
first
Helen and
order of the day was to find opals for our secretaries,
Pat.
Both of us found exactly what we were looking
with no trouble. This of the world's opals
is
for
the opal capital of the world. Ninety percent
come from Coober
217
Pedy,
some 590 miles northwest
TRAVELS WITH TED of Adelaide.
and
this
think opals are one of the most beautiful stones around,
I
Lindbergs
own
and
We
fifth.
a couple of racehorses, so they took us out to
them
Victoria Park to watch third
NED
the place to buy them.
is
The
&
run. In the
had them
race, the horses
first
to win, so
came
we came up empty.
in
In the
second race, we picked a horse whose name described the weather we'd been blessed with most of the time so
We
time we got lucky. all
on the
of one dollar
effect
on our
We
bet
him
line in
to
far.
Sunny Welcome. This
win or place and he placed. With
each
race, neither
had any appreciable
financial status.
then drove up into the
We
behind Adelaide.
hills
had
a
wonderful meal at a place called Ducks Inn, where you can get everything but duck. to
my
surprise,
and
Ned
let
me
ordered an entree of kangaroo meat,
sample
it.
found
I
very tasty,
it
much
much better'
than steak or venison. Other orders around the table included rabbit, lamb, and beer-battered After lunch
fish.
we continued up
to the top of the
mountain, where
we toured the Cleoland Park and Zoo. Ned and I had our pictures taken with a koala bear hanging on to us for dear life. We also saw some dingo dogs, the ones that were tamed by Aborigines here to help them in hunting. They are a small dog, but very intelligent.
We
were back
for the day,
and run
other things,
I've
best exercise of
at the ship in
time to wash up, finish our prayers
six flights upstairs for
Mass
given up elevators for Lent. Climbing
be doing about
all. I'll
fifty flights
SUNDAY, FEBRUARY En
B>^y
the time
we woke
Australian Bight. This
west
—
in the theater.
that covers the
is
Route
up,
to
2
Among
stairs
is
the
a day.
1
Fremantle
the ship was well into the Great
— 600 miles from
an enormous bay
bottom of Australia where
it
bellies
east to
inward to
the north. There was a light southeasterly wind coming up behind us
and a very gentle
although the bight can be rough
swell,
Roaring 40s continue up
this
way with
a clear
sweep
all
when
the
the way from
the Antarctic to the southern shores of Australia.
Ned had almost
as
many people
218
at
Mass
this
morning
as
we had
THEODORE last
night.
I
believe that Lent
M.
is
HESBURGH
pushing up our attendance somewhat,
not only on Sundays but also during the week.
As we
cruise along the southern coast this quiet
Sunday
noon, I'm taking a break from reading Gorbachev's record a few unrelated facts about Australia. First of all, nation that occupies an entire continent.
and
smallest drier,
It is
Perestroika to
the only
it is
also the flattest
and
driest inhabited continent in the world. Antarctica
but uninhabited. Less than 10 percent of the land
But the country
Australia.
after-
Among
consumption.
is
is
is
arable in
certainly not dry in terms of alcohol
English-speaking nations, Australia holds the
record for consumption of beer and whiskey. Australia
Some
is
one of the oldest of the world's landmasses.
also
One
fragments of the earth's crust here are 4.3 billion years old.
hundred
sixty-five million years ago, Australia, together
with North
and South America, Africa, and most of Asia, was part of a landmass called
Gondwana. Then
Australia and the current continents began
and Antarctica separated and
to drift away.
Eventually, Australia
drifted farther
from the center of what
why
is
now
India.
This explains
the flora and fauna of Australia, having developed separately over
millions of years, are unique in
all
of the world. Even the
human
remains here go back ^0,000 years, considerably older than any yet discovered in the Australia
one of the
is
least
New
World.
about the
size
of the continental United States.
people per square mile. There are ten times as people. This
is
It is
populated countries in the world, averaging only
why
many sheep
five
here as
they produce 30 percent of the world's wool and
export the second-largest amount of mutton, almost 300,000 tons a year. Australia appears to be very healthy economically. Its per capita
income of $11,200 of Australians
own
vacation annually.
is
one of the highest in the world and 70 percent
their
homes. Workers have from four to
On the downside,
the Australian dollar has lost 50
percent against the Japanese yen in the there
is
six weeks'
last
three years.
heavy Japanese investment here, just as there
is,
As
a result,
for the
same
reason, in the United States.
Since 1950, the number of college students in Australia has
grown from 30,000 ties,
to 180,000.
but higher education
a current
move toward
is
There are now a few private
mostly public and
free,
universi-
although there
privatization of higher education. But all
219
is
is
not
TRAVELS WITH TED
Only 40 percent of the seventeen-year-olds
perfect.
compared with 92 percent is
NED
&
United
in the
States.
One
are in school,
of five teenagers
unemployed. Australia was originally populated only by Aborigines, an esti-
mated 300,000 of them. But with the coming of the whites, most of the Aborigines were killed
About 30,000
live
on
Now
off.
We
the general population.
there are about 60,000
Another 30,000
reservations.
are
left.
mixed into
were told today that $2 billion has been
paid in welfare for Aborigines in recent years. It
wasn't until 1973 that Australia was open to immigrants
who
were not white. Seventy-five years before that, the all-white policy
governed Asian,
immigration. Today, one of every three immigrants
all
much
United
like the current pattern in the
States.
There
is
is
a
very strong Irish influence in Australia, especially in the Catholic
Church.
Of the 162,000
45,000 were
Irish,
convicts
who were
plus Australians, 2.5 million are Irish. is
a very unusual country,
Tonight
I
transplanted to Australia,
mostly political prisoners. Today, of the 16 million-
read the
little
last
Enough
for statistics, but this
understood by most of the world.
two of eight
tracts that Karl
Rahner, the
famous Catholic theologian, wrote on the Sacraments and the Vows.
Good
So came the end of Sunday
theological insights.
in the
Great
Australian Bight.
MONDAY, FEBRUARY En e're so far
birthday.
It's
away
been a
it's
fairly
and reading Gorbachev's
Route
hard to believe that
work aboard the
this
is
Washington's
quiet day with exercise, walking the decks,
At four
Perestroika.
meeting of the bishop, the rabbi, laincy
22
Fremantle
to
ship.
We
Ned, and laid a
generally agreed that things were going at the beginning.
220
this afternoon,
me
we had
a
regarding our chap-
few long-range plans and
much
better than they were
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
TUESDAY, FEBRUARY
23
Fremantle-Perth, Australia
Harbor right on the nose
e arrived in Fremantle
people,
if
they've heard of Fremantle at
where the America's Cup race was held
won
the United States
taken
in 1987.
in 1983.
It's
is
eleven miles up the
of Adelaide, nearly
people
who
1
that occasion,
who had
much
town
larger city of
Western Australia,
is
about the
million people. That's two- thirds of the
the state.
live in
On
A.M. Most
as the place
Swan River from Fremantle.
Perth, the capital of the state of size
it
a great little port
with a population of only 25,000 people. The Perth
at 8
remember
the cup back from the Australians,
away from us in Newport
it
all,
It's
a bright, fresh-looking city, expand-
ing faster than any other Australian city. But
it
terribly isolated,
is
being closer to Singapore than to Sydney. Even Adelaide, our port of call,
almost 2,000 miles from here. Perth
is
both banks of the Swan River. This
city has
great entrepreneurs in Australia. This state
Texas,
and
it
One
of
It
four times the size of
some of the
also has
them belongs
to
spread out along
spawned many of the
contains vast amounts of iron ore, coal,
and many other minerals. Australia.
is
is
last
oil, gold, silver,
best vineyards in
Denis and Tricia Morgan,
who
gave
us a tour of the area.
Denis and Tricia properties that Denis
first
drove us
all
over Fremantle showing us
had recently acquired with the thought of
building a Catholic university here. Also,
we took
a quick look at
Perth and the University of Western Australia, which tive. hill
We
then went to Denis and
overlooking the
Fremantle. There Denis's,
who
Swan
Tricia's house,
which
is
is
very attrac-
located
on
River, about halfway between Perth and
we were joined by
Peter Tannock, a classmate of
has his Ph.D. in education from Johns Hopkins and
director of Catholic education for this state.
on the Catholic
When we
a
is
He's working with Denis
university project.
had
finished our coffee,
and boarded Denis's helicopter
we went down
to the heliport
for a trip about 125 miles south along
the coast. There are miles and miles of clear sand beaches.
As we
rounded Cape Leeuwin, the most southwesterly point of the continent of Australia, we came along rocky beaches with enormous surf pound-
221
TRAVELS WITH TED ing in from the south
below
being thrown end over end 100 feet
surfers
us.
Our next wine
and
NED
&
district.
Estate,
There we
there,
is
the center of the
flew farther inland, landing at Denis's
which comprises about 2,000
met lunch
which
stop was the Margaret River,
acres.
We
Leeuwin
had a splendid gour-
accompanied by three or four excellent
local wines.
Denis owns 200 acres of grapes and produces about 25,000 cases of
wine a
Though
year.
new
relatively
in the business,
wines were beginning to win some awards.
he told us
The winery was
his
originally
Mondavi of California.
a joint venture with
down and all the way back and while there, our nonstop conversation went on concerning the feasibility of building a Catholic university in Western Australia. I think we came to the All the way
cautious conclusion that
it
was a good thing to do.
they give the university a Catholic ably Catholic
and
totally
eventually decided to
dean, David Link, as that
it
its
it
would be unmistak-
name
its first
it
Notre
Dame
Australia, with our law
two-year vice chancellor. )
Rim
university
I
also suggested
which would take a
students from Western Australia, another third from the
rest of Australia,
That would
so that
committed to remaining Catholic. (They
be conceived as a Pacific
third of
name
suggested that
1
give
and a it
third
from the other
Pacific
Rim
thirds of the world's population currently lives in Pacific tries.
Most
countries.
plenty of potential students to draw from. Two-
authorities agree that
it
will
Rim coun-
be the great trade center of
the future.
We
returned to the Morgan
guests were the
of
God
home
Among
the other
Bill Foley,
the head of St. John
Columba Howard,
a very distinguished
Archbishop of Perth;
Hospital; and Sister
for dinner.
doctor here. Denis served some of his best wines, which went well
with the pink snapper.
When we
we discovered that fiiel handlers all over Australia had gone on strike. As a result, though we were scheduled to leave at 11 P.M., we couldn't. The worst part was being returned to the ship,
berthed next to a large Saudi Arabian ship. There were 100,000 sheep
on board and we were downwind
of them.
stockyards town, you can imagine what
222
it
If
was
you've ever lived in a
like.
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY
24
Fremantle, Austraiia
ilnstead of waking up a couple of hundred miles out to sea, as scheduled, we woke up again in Fremantle. The captain spent most of the morning negotiating with the strikers. Normally, the loss of a few hours on a cruise of this duration would not have been of great concern, but with the
QE2
in port,
The
was.
it
ship was paying a
docking fee of $10,000 per hour, so by the time the
and we got underway,
made
it
it
a very expensive twelve hours. But at last
many pleasant memories not among them. with
at the
was settled
we were on our way
3,600 miles away off the coast of Africa.
to Mauritius,
I
strike
had cost the Cunard Line $120,000. That
of Australia.
The
We were
leaving
sheep, however, were
read more Gorbachev this morning and continue to be surprised
openness of his language and the way he invokes a Christian
vocabulary with words like
"human
rights," "social justice," "the
man," "high character," "spiritual development," and They are words you don't expect to hear from a Communist.
dignity of forth.
THURSDAY, FEBRUARY En Route
A We up
to
so
25
Mauritius
beautiful day today with a small following
wind
in a
calm
sea.
have the engines cranked up to about 28 knots, so we're making for the time
on
in Mauritius rise to
we
lost in
time.
Fremantle.
The
The temperature
is
navigator says we'll arrive
about 67 degrees and will
the middle 70s during the day. We're just a few miles north of
a trench in the Indian
Ocean where
the depth
is
22,000
feet.
I'm getting in the habit of doing about one and a half miles
around the deck each morning
much
traffic
after breakfast
up there and before the day
gets too
does a couple of miles in the afternoon.
and they
tell
us that exercise
is
no good
It's if
when
there isn't too
warm. Ned generally
enough
to raise a sweat,
that doesn't happen.
The
heart has to do a bit of pumping.
We
heard a fine lecture by Waldemar Hansen, our on-board
cultural lecturer,
on the
history, geography, anthropology, politics,
223
—
)
TRAVELS WITH TED A
and culture of Africa. After lunch,
donned
opinion,
it
in
finish the
Gorbachev book, which
that the best parts of the
the message
is
who
should be required reading for anyone 1
did. In
1
has any
suspect that several people
writing, such as Georgi Arbatov, but
its
well.
it
and went up on the absolutely top deck
dealings with the Russians today.
hand
he compressed
large subject, but
shorts
some sunshine and
to get
my
I
NED
&
it's
fairly
had a
obvious
book come from Gorbachev himself because
the same one he's been espousing ever since he was
elected General Secretary almost three years ago.
have a hunch he
1
be deposed or change the face of Russia in our time
will either
perhaps both. (This was prophetic, because
it
happened.
I've
had the
opportunity to meet and converse with Gorbachev three times since reading Perestroika.
1
continue to admire him and his present program
of action.
After Gorbachev,
Throne by Hansen.
I
read a hundred pages or so of The Peacock
a great history of the
It's
Mogul Empire
just before and after the time that the Taj Mahal was built.
been trying to organize tours are sold out.
I
a trip to the Taj
in India
Ned
has
Mahal, because the regular
encouraged him to do
it
on
his
own by
plane and
then go to Dhaka to see our Holy Cross operation there.
had an
1
noon Mass.
interesting pastoral experience shortly after the after-
A gentleman in the sick bay had asked for a priest.
down, spent some time with him, and, confession.
When we
at his request,
were finished, he said
as
I
a Catholic, but you've just
had
all
to
1
answered, "You
your sins forgiven."
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY En Route
went
was going out the
door of his room, "By the way, I'm not a Catholic."
may not be
1
heard his
26
Mauritius
e did a bit of rolling during the night, but not too bad. All
have to do
is
think rock-a-bye-baby and go to sleep.
hazy with a sharp wind from the southwest that waters.
down. It
Between here and the Antarctic It's
really a vast
there's
you
The day dawned
is
kicking up the
nothing to slow them
and almost empty ocean.
was a quiet afternoon with another hundred pages or so of
winding
my way
through the Mogul Empire in India. The war of
224
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
succession there was really something, with three brothers battling
each other to the death
The whole dynasty who was a descendant
for the job of emperor.
there began in the fifteenth century with Babur,
Khan and Tamerlane. The story really begins with Shah Jahan (Khurram), who ruled from 1628 to 1658. He wanted his of Genghis
and
favorite
Data Shikoh, to take over from him, but the
eldest son,
three younger brothers, Shuja, Aurangzeb, and Murad, took a
view of
this.
Aurangzeb won out by either imprisoning or
the other brothers. battling going
more
full
on
He
ruled from 1658 to 1707. There was a lot of
Europe
in
of intrigue than
and Hindus added a
dim
killing off
at this time,
life
in the
but nothing more fierce or
Mogul
where the Muslims
court,
dimension to the squabbles. This
religious
own time with Pakistan and for the Hindus. The drama has
division continues to resonate into our
Bangladesh for the Muslims and India not yet totally unfolded.
Ned
administered Extreme Unction, or the Sacrament of the
Sick, to a Catholic ill.
She seemed
after the
woman whose
doctor has told her she
terminally
which we had
greatly consoled by the ceremony,
The new
evening Mass with her son also present.
much more meaningful and beautiful than many blessings of Vatican Council II.
is
right
ritual
is
the old one, another of the
This evening we had a cocktail party in the Yacht Club for the four Notre
Dame
couples aboard, the Bob Bauchmans, the Bordas,
the Dirksons, and Bart and Shirley Ramsour. It turned out that Bart and Bob Bauchman had been classmates and even played in the band together at Notre Dame. We also asked Ernie Secoy and Faye Beau-
champ
to join us,
neighbors. players
and
They daily
since they are from Indianapolis and are near
are
practically
alumnae now. Also good bridge
Mass attenders, although neither
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY En Route e covered about
to
is
Catholic.
27
Mauritius
650 miles yesterday and have now
traveled close
to 2,000 miles since leaving Perth. That's better than halfway to
Mauritius, where we'll arrive
on
time.
The
captain has been pushing
the ship along at about 29 knots an hour, which
225
is
about the limit of
r
it^
R A
V
\
I
w
s
H
r
I
T
f
n
ck
n
e
d
without usmc .uiothcr ^0 porceiit more tuel to get
s^xx\i
it
up to
}S or 34 knots.
Ned and
I
on
put
a
partv this
Cv.vkt;\il
noon
tor all ot
the
chaplains, the rabbi, the bishop. Father D'Arcv. the captain ot the ship,
a
and
chance
ofticer^.
all ot his
top
sratt
ro mingle treelv
It
wv»rked out
so that the relitiious personnel would have
and
talk a little policy
\\?rY well.
We
rrv to
with the other
staff
keep good relationships
with the caprain and his top people because they're our bosses and we
need to go through them whenewr we want to do an\thing bevond our usual duties.
SUNDAY. FEBRUARY En Route
a>
:S
Moxmous
on deck and walking the the Afternoon: Good \Kiys cfGroumg
A. his was a quiet and sunnv day oi reading
deck hx some miles,
OUer. bv Ed
I
Fischer.
read Ufe in
h:«m»
(xofesscx^
of journalism at Notre E>ame
and a cbssmate ol NedV Fischer retired from teaching about t\e YCHS ago at age sixty so that he could ^ute some bocJcs. He's wntten at least six or seven since then, half of v^-hich r\^ read, and with great ei^oiyinent, I mi^t aid. He starred wnting this one afto^ his sev^nrvfint bkllMlay . k ofieis a kx of sound advice on hcmr to grow dder I abo lead about half of Genesis in French today. It s the only Old 'fetamcnt vosion I have. I am preaching on Abraham tnnighr and his meal idkanne of the will of God and what that meant fer
hiaaandattafus^idioarehisdescendanis
m
—that
is,
those who betie^
Cbiisdans* and ModiuB. Given die 9t|nafafales we've
one God: Jews. had through die centunes, it's often diftniit to believe that we share soch an iM|iuiLaut cammaa heritaee. I abo began readme Janes hbookofhBdiatrvctack&ed. Fmnot CfaneffsWfe^^^^
IHini^ >fedtar-
~
-s aiore than i
^a
226
1300 pages long.
while after diat. He"s genir^
:
THEODORE
HE5BURGH
\{
MONDAY. FEBRUARY EnBoute
to
Sixicnaus
I looked out the pofthok at about 7 a.m. with
peaks soanng u|maid.
its tall
miles at sea. Mauritius
is
29
It
and there was Mankigs
was a welcome sight
after 3.600 the main island oi the Mascaiene archipel-
ago, 3,650 miles west ot I^rth. 1,120 miles soudieast of Moiiib»a,
and 500 miles due
east of
Mvia^ecar. the
coast oi Aiiica. MamririiK
is
large island off die east
hooie to Indians, Creoles. MysfaBS,
—about
1. 100.000 ot them m all. vas prarrirany unknown b^ore the late six:re-" ceitury. except to some Arab sailors and Poctognese ezpkxers. The
Chinese, and Eurapeans
Man
it ills
Dutch were the
iiist settlers
h^e
(
1598-1710). They
let it
go to the
Company cook over and c ; t Great Booia ^s^rrfA He de Ranee bv -^ r^
ptiate& Lassr die French East liidia lie
de Ranee. In IS 10.
inbo the hadbor with two 5ntish
c».siii|H>
tffing die
Fr^ich tfag ^Tien.
diey got broadside oi the two Fr^ich warships in the harbor, thev
qpened up tfaeargOQ ports. Then diev ran up die British £2: dcMm llie lireiicii. k was ti^ iSid of the Fr«^ 00 ^iauaciu.r. dvir fai«oaee and cukae stiD iIimiumi ^*«^**»** I
:
-
Fkdiy, in 1968. N
mdependenc
was heie once beiore afcoot ten feac ago.
twehe dii&cakdBfs in Sooth Afinca with an toltfraridns to dktace
die
ir
Hf icport.
beadL I4f seaecaiy,, Hden, ciaBscnliedL bcciisp,
I
had
just
A maium eJaLauunai i
and did most of it onda^ a
said
ct
was the best
mnodced bv me.
spent
vitfTafinn
the bnds
tree
on
she hod
woe ciacpiiig
die seieni haoES of .jartannn. Fat this and
any odier
it's Kdly a beaMiM b^kL Ned took die idl toot. I decided just to mosey anndlbrtLaaB* die *-tfriT< Oki the trip in od dioce on the rmffcT I nn iaao Father
DTAicir. ^fe
dbL
wlieic
haded a cab and went inio
we Yisiced
with Archi»liop Jean Mi^geac I had m
mdkkmhu^ dsing mv earlier rt
onm BngffhfT id ike
trip.
He
is
the iist ootne
ict Liaiglli li bv die irid tisn by tie Holy Spnt Fadeis ^cm 1916 OB. Ike A^d^bi^?^ ' in the
bit eerie hearing the brash ice crashing along
both
sides
of the ship and the creaking and groaning of our hull, which has been
strengthened to handle
Actually,
ice.
we had
to cut our
some
We
thick.
sliced
through
but then there was this constant
all right,
cutting noise of the ice against the outer hull.
Anyway, they made
Titanic.
twenty years ago.
built
It
began to think of the even though
it
was
was originally o\\'ned by Linblad and All along the way, there were
ice.
Weddell, crabeater, and leopard
them would scoot
1
this ship very strong,
designated for working in the
of
way through
floes that were fifteen or twenty feet across and three to four feet
seals
off the floe as
on the
we approached on the
Occasionally, there were also penguins
Most
floating ice floes.
or began to tip
floes
it.
and thev simply
slipped into the water. It
was a wonderful day, such
lifetime-
Ned thought
travels to the
Of
Machu
this
in
morning. They
o'clock at night.
I
south at McMurdo,
last
all
it
recall that it
oi our
he would put
it
at
is
partial to ice
Some
of our friends
South Carolina.
night and others were out
said
all
in a
Picchu. That's really saying
are practically running out of night here.
were up past midnight
and given
in the past year,
must understand that Ned
course, you
and snow, having grown up
We
one can only have once
that, all things considered
wonders of the world
the head oi the line, even before
something.
as
was
as bright as
when we were
never got dark at
all.
it is
on deck
right
now
at three at
seven
10 or 11 degrees farther
AnN-way, today ever>'thing
conspired for success, fabulous scener>\ pleasant temperature, bright sunshine, blue skies, and a good skipper. I
forgot to
mention that
we have been Today, most of them were minke
for the last several days
seeing whales almost every day.
286
THEODORE We
whales.
HESBURGH
M.
named Minke was
learned today that a sailor
a spotter
aboard one of the old whalers. In other words, he was the fellow up in the crow's nest at the top of the
mast looking
for
whales that might
be chased and harpooned. Minke apparently didn't have
all
that great
discernment about different whales, because he would get them chasing a small whale that was very
blubber on
it.
When
fast
and did not have very much
they finally caught up with the whale, one of
the seamen or the harpooner would say in disgust, "That's one of
Minke's whales." As a
result,
the small whale today
is
called a
minke
whale. That's one way to become immortal.
Right now, we are approaching the farthest progress south of the
On
Society expedition voyages this year. degrees,
the
11 minutes, 9 seconds south. Since
they got 65
last trip,
we
are already at 65
degrees, 10 minutes, 7 seconds south, the odds are that
the record of the
which continues all
last trip, since
we're
still
we
will beat
plowing through the
to scrape loudly along our sides.
At
ice,
least we'll lose
our barnacles.
At 6:30 tonight, we passed the expeditions.
We
ice to establish
my
guess It
is
our
that
farthest point south in past
now going a few miles farther through new record. I'll probably know later what
are
it's
a few miles farther than
the pack it is,
and
where we are now.
was a few miles and no more. The new record
south was 65 degrees, 12 minutes, 7 seconds.
for farthest
A few went in to shore
through the pack ice on the zodiacs and one zodiac got stuck in the ice.
However,
it
was disengaged
after a half
movie on board, Good Morning, Vietnam.
hour or
so.
1
saw
my
first
A waste of time.
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER
21
Antarctic Peninsula
-fVeveille was
at 6:30 this
morning. As we raised the porthole cover,
once again we were greeted by a beautiful blue
sky, sunshine every-
where, and in every direction one looked, water, snow, and
know how we can be so lucky. The first trip ashore was at eight and
ice.
1
don't
First,
or
a doubleheader at that.
there was a landing at Gonzalez Videla, the site of an
abandoned Chilean
station.
It
is
287
also a
unmanned
gentoo penguin rookery
TRAVELS WITH TED
with plenty of penguins and tons of guano. Again,
The
the way these rookeries stink.
NED
& it's
hard to describe
chicks have not hatched out here,
although there were plenty of birds on the nests warming the eggs.
Some
birds were just
and,
assume, a breakfast of
I
The second
coming out of the water
door was a small chinstrap penguin
sight next
rookery perched on high rocks and slippery too.
on rock outcroppings
rookeries are always free of
snow
time of year, whereas
at this
several feet deep.
still
The
morning dip
after their
krill.
is
The
reason that these
that they are sure to be
around them the snow
all
rocks are blackish,
and that
is
attracts the
emerge in the spring
as
zodiac was back to the ship at 9:45 A.M., and then
we
heat of the sun, so they are the
first
to
relatively dry places.
The
last
were off to what
They have
Paradise Bay.
one
is
billed as
one of the
custom of serving hot consomme
a nice
of these trips ashore,
loveliest spots in the Antarctic,
since the temperature hovers at 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
sunshine makes
after
although ours have not been too rugged
Of course,
the
the difference in the world compared with a damp,
all
overcast day.
While ashore on the
trip this
first
morning, we were able to nose
around the Chilean buildings. There were closet,
a puny Christmas
we even found penguins
last 1
still
some
groceries in the
(no trees on this whole continent), and
a January 1988
that the Chileans
with them.
tree
New
Yorker,
from which we deduced
had been down here doing some research on the
year at this time and that an
would guess that
this station
American
scientist
was
could accommodate a dozen
or so people, possibly even a few more.
It
would not be much fun
living here very long with that constant smell of guano, but
I
you want to study penguins, you've got to be where they
although
I
would have pitched
my
Incidentally, the farthest south yesterday put us 2
this
is
morning, we
and a hill
we were supposed
half. It
set off to see
slide
down on
minutes above
another supposedly
called Almirante Brown. After
to tour the bay in the zodiacs for
had another attraction
behind the research
1
66 degrees, 33 minutes.
abandoned Argentine research station visiting,
if
hut some distance upwind.
the Antarctic Circle, which
At 10:30
are,
guess
in that there
station, so people
their backsides.
Great fun.
288
an hour
was a large snowy
would climb
to the top
and
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
However, when we arrived there, tinians
the
last
had been dropped
turned out that seven Argen-
it
off to recondition the station. Apparently,
group that was staying here had a crazy
man who
decided the
way to get home was to bum the place down. Fortunately, they had a few other huts around that they could stay in, but he burned best
down
the main installation. Nothing
fellows are supposed to clean
can reactivate the
One
station.
he had spent fourteen years south as 80-plus degrees.
in
of
but girders. These seven
left
up and
it
start rebuilding so that
them was
Argentinian stations down here as
to the ship by myself it is
if I
and picked up the Mass
easily carried
we cleaned up one
asked them delighted, so
1
They were
they would like to have Mass for Christmas.
in a knapsack, so
far
recall that one, Belgrano.
I
After meeting the captain and the other men,
went back
they
a real Antarctican, since
kit,
which
is
up and down the gangplank. Back
on the
table,
and proceeded with the Mass. Since our boats were leaving
fairly
on
shore,
soon, there was
no time
of the huts, set up an altar
for Confessions.
of Contrition in Spanish and gave
them they could
Communion
them
I
took them through the Act
all
general absolution, telling
confess later on, but this way they could receive Holy
We
for Christmas.
actually offered the Christmas
by anticipation, and they were very pious
and they
table blessing themselves
all
Mass
around the
as they stood
received a Christmas Holy
Communion.
One
other bit of serendipity. Just as
Corby Hall
at
Notre Dame,
the Mass kit just in case.
1
came
It
the Mass in Spanish, which
Mass,
and
1
all
repacked the Mass
kit
it
more meaningful
so
and was not stranded
at
It
on
like
in in
I
down
did get
my
for
them. After
the bay was a boat
ride
back to the ship
the nonabandoned base called
an early Christmas
for
me
too.
bit
confused, but at the same time fairly well
this ship.
Since we have seven zodiacs operating at once,
Things are a organized
seemed
it
again. All the boats
and got suited up
last,
Almirante Brown.
my room
handy today since we could have
of the people had gone. However,
after all
\
in
made
that was leaving this stop for
was leaving
1
spotted a Spanish missal and threw
everyone has a yellow tag at the debarkation door that he turns to red (the other side) still
when he
some unturned
cards,
we know
289
When we
if
there are
we're in trouble or else
someone
leaves ship.
get back,
TRAVELS WITH TED has a bad
memory
for detail
NED
&
and has not turned over
his tag
on the
hook.
Ned was up
at the top of the
mountain while
happening. Besides, he has the Mass for the regulars so
it's
of this was
this afternoon,
a break having two of us here at once. Everybody returned from
Paradise Bay just like
somewhat
late, so
we had
—
an Argentinian asado
a barbecue for a change.
It
quiet afternoon, but always a lot
with.
Then
one of
time on penguins. Everybody mopey
his superb lectures,
at supper tonight because
has been a long day and we always have a session to recap the day
Island,
more
we go
to
111,
rookeries,
where we began our
King George Island (named
a
arrival
after
King
the English king at the time of the American Revolution),
where there tinians,
just
Tomorrow we have
we're going north.
on Nelson
George
make
now
here. Later
session
down
Now
it
we're out in the Gerlache Channel retracing our
although
trip south,
A
of odds and ends to catch up
Peter Harrison gave another
before supper.
was
pork, beef, chicken, sausages, etc.
fairly
this
all
are research stations of the Russians, Brazilians,
and Poles
with American
assistance. Every nation
sure that the claims they have
made
is
Argen-
trying to
in the Antarctic hold
up
by virtue of their presence here. In any event, we're hoping to give
them Christmas services if they want them, but only tomorrow will tell what the situation is. My guess is that there will be a Polish Christmas Mass. I'm not sure of the Brazilians.
It
turned out to be
just
the opposite.
THURSDAY, DECEMBER At
22
Sea, Antarctica
when suddenly we came down the Gerlache
V V e were just about to turn in last night at 11:30
we must have
hit
an open spot of sea
Channel. The ship began to tible to seasickness
and
roll
We
as
side to side.
promptly started to get
that's the easiest solution.
sleep.
from
ill.
Most of us were
Somehow you
were able to sleep a bit
later this
Everybody suscep-
just let
it
in bed,
rock you to
morning, although
1
woke
up with a scratchy throat and then, having promptly taken two aspirins, immediately lost it. Let's hope it's gone for good. Just about everyone, including yours truly, has had intestinal disease the
290
last
few
i
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
Somewhere along the line we must have gotten some nice some not so nice. Relatively few people went in to Nelson Island, where we landed at our first stop on the Antarctic Peninsula on the way down. This time they are going to another landing to see more gentoo and chinstrap penguin rookeries. 1 hate to say that if days.
bacteria, or
you've seen one, you've seen
come
to at this point.
smelled
them
1
them
but that's about what we've
all,
could add that
if
you've smelled one, you've
A number of other birds also nest here,
all.
such
kelp
as
Antarctic terns, southern giant petrels (a very big bird),
gulls, skuas,
pintado petrels, and also Wilson's storm petrels. These petrels are the birds that
one mostly
Some
territory.
of
we go
sees circling the ship wherever
them
in this
are quite large, weighing fifteen to thirty
pounds and having a wingspread of are not as big as the albatross.
Of course,
six to seven feet.
They
they
recently measured an albatross
with a thirteen-foot wingspread.
The next
stop was King George Island farther north. This one
has a lot of research stations,
among which
are those belonging to the
Russians, the Brazilians, and the Poles, with scientists also work.
We're going to
visit
whom
a few
American
the Brazilian station
then go up the coast to the Polish station, where
first
we'll probably
and
have
a Christmas Mass.
We
arrived at the Brazilian station,
schedule.
I
Comandante
went with the advance party
the landing and see
if
everything was
Ferraz, right
in the scout boat to all
on
check
right for disembarking
passengers from our zodiacs.
me
This gave just
taken over
a chance to talk to the
this base,
Comandante
young commander who has Lisboa.
I
told
him
I
was a
priest and was prepared to offer a Christmas Mass for his people. The problem was that most of them were on station working. He said he
would send out the word so that those who could get
me
free
could join
for Mass. 1
set
up in the small
library,
where, fortunately, there was a
Portuguese Bible, so that we could have the Christmas readings in
About seven people showed up, including the comhad the commander and one of the doctors do the
their language.
mander, so
I
readings. Also, because of the limitations of time
them general absolution so that they could for Christmas. I told them they could confess
291
all
and language,
gave
Communion when they got
receive
their sins
1
TRAVELS WITH TED back home.
It
was
would
parts they
—
Mass
really a three -language
NED
&
easily recognize, English for the
in Spanish for the
Canon, and Portu-
guese for the Lessons.
This
is
probably the best
Antarctic Peninsula.
The
known
of the Brazilian bases in the
installation looks fairly new. Jacques
teau stopped here for a while and picked up
the beach and It's
so
I
Cous-
of the whale bones
all
on
a group of them together into a blue whale skeleton.
fit
about forty feet long.
I
took
my
picture standing inside the
mouth
least the whale's throat.
could be Jonah in the whale's belly, or at
Everybody got back on time, so that now we are on our way to the Polish base, Arctowski. Again,
Ned
things,
I
will offer the
doing a
least we're
little
if
we can
Christmas Mass aboard, and
missionary work
and arrange
get in early
down
At
ashore.
I
When Ned
here.
and
arrived at the anchorage for the Polish station of Arctowski, there
was, against the large rock formation, a shrine to crucifix.
We
were met by one of the four American
here on ornithology, mostly penguins.
We
Our Lady and scientists
walked down a
and took our boots
off so as
working
fairly
long
Once we were
path to the central headquarters of the Polish station. inside
a
not to dirty their carpets, we met
the commander of the station. I simply said that we were priests and we had everything necessary for Mass and we would be happy to offer Mass if that would be convenient to him and his group of twenty or thirty scientists. To our surprise, he told us that this was a Communist state station and that Mass would not be in order. He started to explain with some embarrassment, and 1 told him not to make a big deal out of
We
it; if it
was inconvenient, forget
it.
entered and had some coffee and cakes, and then he insisted
on taking
us personally
they have, where
good and,
The
I
we
all
ate
around the station, including a greenhouse
some of
their tomatoes,
which were very
might add, very unusual.
curious thing was that
when we went
room, we saw a large picture of Pope John Paul sure all of this was due to
what would happen
if
common am
into their 11
on the
wall.
some kind of misunderstanding or
the
commander was
reported back
1
a fear of
home
as
having allowed Mass at the state station, the state being Communist.
As he conducted
us around the base,
things were quite different in the Soviet
two months ago
I
had been asked to
I
Union
offer Mass,
292
explained to today.
I
him
that
said that only
and did so
in
Moscow,
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
with the vice chairman of the Academy of Sciences, the head of the Russian Space Research Program, and Andrei Sakharov in attendance, plus
many
other Russians. However, this
thousands of miles
is
away from headquarters, and one can understand the fears that exist in the political order. In any event, we passed the word around that nothing should be made of if it
was
feasible
this
and we were
utility
and no explanation was necessary
people to be used
if
they didn't want
to have us provide a spiritual service. I'm sure the majority did not
commander. Three weeks
agree with the
Polish foreign minister told
me
commander was much for glasnost.
that the
out of line in not permitting Mass. So
This
is
one of the few places
in the Antarctic
Adelie
come
gentoo
later.
the
The
where three of the
reason they are able to do
it
They
also feed at different levels of the It's
The Adelie population
has doubled
down
apparent reason for this
is
that
there was an extra supply of
the penguins
moved
Now
balance of nature
problem
is
for
the
krill,
three
all
here in the
last
ten to
tripled.
The
of the whales were killed
main food of the whales,
so
they may be putting too great a burden
and the next few years
krill
just a
in.
when most
and
same needs.
twenty years, and the chinstrap population has probably
on
that the
ocean to obtain
accommodation, and
a nice
get along well, despite the fact that they have the
off,
is
in early in the season, the chinstraps in the middle,
that sustains them.
krill
completely
and the chinstrap, breed
species of penguins, the Adelie, the gentoo,
together and in peace.
Moscow, the former
later in
be interesting to watch.
will
a marvelous reality.
humans, given our
The
Population numbers are not
total
dependence on limited
resources.
We
had
a group
from both the Polish station and the Brazilian
station join us for a Philippine buffet tonight. After the meal, the Filipinos sang
some of
their songs
and then we had a
young leader of the American group up on the
levels
here.
of the Foundation while a
for oil
is
I
was chairman of
being kept up, and they are even
long-range plans for research support here. is
this activity
of the National Science Board.
member
Apparently, the research support
everybody has
lecture by the
was interesting to catch
of research support from the National Science
Foundation, since from 1963 to 1966
making some
It
The
big fear
that there will be an influx of national groups looking
and possibly ruining
this area,
293
which
really
should be an
1
TRAVELS WITH TED international park.
threaten
Life
is
here and almost anything can
fragile
it.
As we were winding up is
NED
&
during the day. All that being true,
been an interesting day.
had Mass
we were
the discussion,
told that reveille
tomorrow morning and that we have two landings
at six o'clock
When we
I
think
it's
time to go to bed.
returned to the ship tonight,
in our cabin, attended by our
Notre
Dame alumni
It's
Ned
couple
and two other of our regular parishioners.
FRIDAY, DECEMBER
23
Antarctica
JL here was a wake-up
We
decided to ignore.
We
a result.
call at six this
heard that the landing party was
They
did see elephant seals.
about every type of seal thus
fairly small,
far,
so a few
We
finally got
as
just
more we don't need.
room
until
1
some laundry out and stopped by the doctor
get a couple of pills for
to
Montezuma's revenge. They seem to come up
with different medicines every time. This one was Doxycycline; believe
it's
a throw-off
I
but they
We've seen
are fairly enormous.
Instead of lunch, they had a brunch in the dining
A.M.
Ned and
morning, which
had the best sleep since leaving South Bend
from Terramycin. Anyway,
At 11:15 A.M., we have
a lecture
approaching Elephant Island, where he
it
on Shackleton, left
I
works.
some of
his
since we're
men
as
he
escaped from the ice after his ship was crushed, well south of here.
We're stopping
Half
at
Moon
Island at
one o'clock
for
another rookery
of penguins, blue-eyed cormorants, and Antarctic terns.
At four
this
afternoon, we're heading for Elephant Island and en route we'll have a lecture by Richard Rowlett. He'll talk
Antarctic Ocean. that
tomorrow
is
Much
discussion
on
on whale research
this subject. It's
in the
hard to believe
Christmas Eve.
Having been faked out by the RDlish commander, we had a better break today from the Argentinians. rough, so zodiacs.
we had
Some
The
sea has risen to be quite
quite a time getting to shore in the bouncing
people went to a rookery, but
to the Argentinian
I
decided to go directly there. The camp new contingent of
camp, about a half mile from
had been abandoned
for the last seven years.
294
A
THEODORE Argentinians arrived here
was a nice fellow named
HESBURGH
M.
about two weeks ago.
just
who
Ferrera,
gave
me
a big
The comandante
welcome and
We gathered
they would be delighted to have a Christmas Mass.
said
about
room and had the Mass, mainly in Spanish, with the comandante and one of the young seaman doing the readings in Spanish. Again, because we were about to be inundated a table in their little dining
with tourists in a few moments, in
went through the Act of Contrition
I
Spanish with them and gave them
they could receive
Communion
happy with the arrangement, but to Confession
when
all
general absolution so that
They seemed
quite
them they would have
to go
for Christmas.
told
I
they returned to Argentina, which would be the
next time they would be near a church.
A dozen of them assisted very piously at Mass and afterward took a
number of pictures around the altar. This makes three Masses ashore we should get overtime for the missionary activity.
in three days, so
However,
it's
been great fun and
to be
a delight
able to bring
Christmas to these isolated posts, with a Midnight Mass offered a few days early and in the afternoon.
Some
of the Argentinians
had Cokes and beer in Spanish,
who wanted
and then they were
They were
base.
for those
came back
really a nice
scientist, a biologist,
off
a half-hour conversation
on the bouncy
among them. Argentina
Islands, to the British.
We
sea back to the
group of mainly young men, with one
claim alive on these lands, having
first
it,
to the ship with us.
When we
lost
really
wants to keep
its
the Malvinas, or the Falkland
stepped ashore from the zodiac, the
thing the Argentinian sailor at the dockside said was
"Welcome
to Argentina."
We had a few good sessions at our debriefing this afternoon. Hughes, a bit
staff lecturer, talked
more complicated than
started the
first
it
on
glaciers in great detail.
seems when you
just
look at
leg of our journey to the Falklands
Terry
Nature it.
is
a
Then we
by heading toward
Elephant Island.
We
hadn't proceeded very far
when
the sea started to kick up,
and only about half of the people showed up looks like our good luck
on the
one of the worst in the world, again.
Anyway, we
trip is
for dinner tonight. It
south through the Drake Passage,
giving out
on
us as
should be at Elephant Island
295
we head north
(named
after the
TRAVELS WITH TED elephant seal that bit
lives there) early
rough and maybe
tomorrow morning.
will flatten out after that.
it
w.
hen we
Route
will
be a
24
Falkland Islands
to the
arrived at Elephant Island about 6:30 this morning, the
was surrounded by pack
island
It
Meanwhile, to bed.
SATURDAY, DECEMBER En
NED
&
ice.
The
scout boat tried to get
through, but the zodiac just couldn't cope with the high sea and the
heavy hunks of tightly packed glaciers floating
around the
ice.
There were
island.
The
also several
island itself
is
enormous
just a series of
massive peaks with one small peninsula going out to a small mountain
with a
bit of
beach that would not be overwhelmed by the sea
was here that Shackleton's lifeboats
winter.
men
gathered under their two overturned
and managed to survive
They
ice. It
for 105 days
through the Antarctic
arrived here around the middle of April.
When
Shack-
leton decided to leave and tried to get to South Georgia by boat in
the open sea, an 800-mile
he
trip,
left
winter was just beginning in earnest. the
last
on
Easter Sunday,
He would not
day of August, toward the end of winter.
men managed
to go through the
that looks this bad in early
Anyway, we and then
is
all
twenty-two
beyond imagination. However, all
twenty-two of them
morning because
We had a
it
Yelchro.
would have been
light breakfast, as befits
a long philosophical talk with Terry
University of Maine.
who were
get back here until
How
he landed on the Chilean boat
didn't land this
impossible in the zodiacs. Eve,
as
the
whole winter and survive in a place
summer
Shackleton did not lose a single man, and were on the beach cheering
when
Christmas
Hughes from the
He was mainly concerned about why
liberals
so valiant in the fight for civil rights are so totally in
agreement with abortion, which violates the most fundamental hu-
man
right of I
finally
all,
namely
decided
easy to take a shower
life.
Not an
was time to clean up
it
on
a rolling ship, but
clean again. Also, the laundry cleansing process.
Now
easy question to answer.
I
for Christmas.
accomplished
came back, which
to the Breviary
is
it
It's
not
and I'm
helpful in the
and to get a Christmas sermon
ready.
Because we'll be sailing
all
day en route to the Falkland Islands,
296
THEODORE
Elephant Island behind,
leaving
HESBURGH
M.
Peter Han-ison will
morning on the Totorore Expedition
lecture
this
Cape Horn. Peter was almost killed on that one, but I heard the lecture on the Amazon a year ago, so I'll take that time to work on the sermon. Another of our lecturers, Jack Child of American University, is on the
talking
on
to
politics of Antarctica at three this afternoon,
Hughes
at five, Terry
and
later
will give a lecture entitled "Antarctica, Ice
Ages, and the Rising Sea Level." As you can see, we're really getting educated.
We're going to have an early dinner because the the only dining
room
over
staff takes
Christmas dinner, and while they are
for their
eating, we'll see, of all things, Casablanca.
That
be over about
will
nine o'clock and then we'll have Christmas carols in French, German,
and English, followed by our Midnight Mass around we'll
have a
The
full
sea
11:30.
rolling about as badly as ever because we're
still
from north to south, although
east
seem
and
It's
really the
we
did earlier
time we're farther to the
this
to affect the waves,
west.
suspect
house tonight.
is
crossing the Drake Passage from south to north, just as
doesn't
1
which
are just as
east. It
bad on both
convergence of Atlantic and
their different winds and different currents that causes
sides,
Pacific all
with
of this
disturbance.
The Christmas members singing
carols
first,
came
off well,
with the Filipino crew
and then Peter Harrison's two
little girls,
ten
and eleven, sang a duet about Jesus and the manger, followed by Micheline Place, our cruise director, and her twin French.
Then we
all
chimed
in
sister singing in
with the secular "Rudolph the Red-
Nosed Reindeer" and religious songs for about twenty minutes. At 11:45 P.M., we went up to the Penguin Lounge for Midnight Mass. It was really starting to get rough. It was all we could do to keep
on our placed.
feet while It
hanging on to the
little
table
where we had the
altar
had to be the worst Mass we have had at sea for trying to
keep one's footing. All the hosts went
sailing off the altar early in the
The hall was quite three full. About half of them received Holy Communion. We sang of the old-time Christmas songs and decided to get people down to Mass, thank God, before we
had the Consecration.
their cabins while they could
wasn't
all
that great, because
still 1
navigate.
I
did the homily, but
spent 60 percent of
297
my
energy
it
just to
TRAVELS WITH TED keep standing on think what
We
I
my
NED
&
and then the other 40 percent trying
feet
was going to say next.
I
turned in about 1:30 A.M.
recommend
don't
It
to
it.
was a wonderful Christmas Eve
and everybody seems very happy.
SUNDAY, DECEMBER En e rolled
wasn't nailed glasses,
Route
25
Falkland Islands
to the
and pitched so much last night that everything that down wound up on the floor clothes, film, books,
—
alarm clocks,
Toward dawn, they came
etc.
in to close the
porthole because the water was hitting us so hard some of
coming through the
it
was
glass.
At 8 A.M., we did a couple of 35-degree rolls and everything in the galley went all over the floor, chairs broke loose from their
A
moorings, and the Christmas tree went over with a loud bang. of people ended up
down see
on the
floor of their cabin. After sliding
the bunk for a few hours since 5 A.M.,
what was happening above. At
coffee
and
a crust of bread.
breakfast, but better
It
least
I
I
lot
up and
decided to get up and
was able to get a cup of
wasn't the best Christmas morning
than nothing.
hard to describe the shambles
It's
of the galley, broken crockery everywhere.
After that,
I
came
into our Explorer's
Lounge
just before
one of
our passengers. Colonel Carl Buechner, got caught on another 35degree
roll
and went
one of the
sailing across the
barstools.
doctor, but doesn't
He
is
seem
now
room and whacked
his
head on
getting a massage from the ship's
much more than
to have
head. He's a pretty feisty guy, although he's older
bump on his than we are. The a
colonel said he didn't have any idea of what happened, and that's the
have
way
it is
after a
five stitches in his
quick accident.
head
after
One
I
guess
other passenger had to
being thrown against the wall in
the Penguin Lounge. Everyone seems to be lying low now, and our special Christmas dinner it's
is
going to be put off until tomorrow. Today
sandwiches, which are about
galley at the
moment.
It all
adds a
all
they can manufacture in the
little
spice to Christmas Day.
Here
comes the doctor now with her liniments.
We had a lecture this morning,
which Ned attended and I skipped
298
THEODORE because
Ned
just didn't feel like struggling
I
up to the top deck. However, good attendance, considering the bounciwhich seems to be worse in that lecture hall on the
had
said they
ness of the ship,
top deck, because
A off the
a pretty
higher and swings in a larger arc.
it's
reasonable
number showed up
Christmas dinner because
flipped off the shelves
to
HESBURGH
M.
cook with
for lunch, but they
and splattered on the
this 35-degree roll.
We
had
to put
of the crockery seemed to have
all
floor
and
it
was impossible
had BLT sandwiches and French
which were very good.
fries,
During lunch, the captain changed our course a northeast,
to
bit
the
away from our destination, so that we would have a
following sea rather than broadside waves. After lunch, he said he was
going back on course northwest and we had better get ourselves positioned somewhere where I
came back
we could
bounce
No. 211, and napped alternately
to our faithful cabin.
the ship continued to pitch and
and
off the table
roll
Ned and
survive the afternoon.
roll.
as
We're constantly having things
the length of the cabin. I'm glad
it
isn't
us.
About
3 P.M., since the rolling was
decided to try our
last
no
and no worse, we
better
two Christmas Masses. This morning
it
would
have been impossible.
We managed write a
new
ritual
However,
easy.
to get through without disaster.
on how
to offer
were happy to be able to do
The but
I
rest of the
doubt
it
think we could
Mass on a bouncing
at the heart of our
it is
I
ship.
It's
not
Christmas celebration and we
together.
day will be reasonably simple. Tea
is
scheduled,
that people will face the prospect of having their tea land
in their laps. Later there
is
a get-together for everyone to find out
what we're supposed to do tomorrow. The captain
still
thinks he can
land on the southernmost of the Falkland Islands at about 6:30 in the
morning and have calmed island. We'll
so we'll get an early call.
down
a bit, especially
we can
stomach
too,
is
certain to attend that one.
which
is
she would
say,
They
helpful, although we've
pretty well in the seasickness department. alive,
get into the lee of the
have dinner of sorts tonight, preceded by champagne
from the captain. Ned one's
if
By that time, the sea should
"Knock on
If
say
it
settles
both been doing
my mother
were
still
wood." There's a long night ahead,
and the captain promises more gale-force winds.
299
He
also promises the
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&
ship won't turn over, and we're happy to take his word for that,
although
it
does
come
pretty far over
every twenty seconds, our curtains
hang
at a
on both
come
sides right
right out
now. About
from the wall and
45 -degree angle and then swing back again.
I
keep thinking
men. After depositing the other twenty- two on Elephant Island, he made this whole trip we're now making in an open boat. What's more, he did it in the wintertime,
of Shackleton and his survivors
whereas we're in
One
last
late spring.
choice for the day. At 9:15 tonight, they are showing a
video of Raiders of
the Lost
Ark, for those
deck again. Merry Christmas. Last year
it
We
who can make
it
to the top
won't forget this one in a hurry.
was Barbados on the QE2. Milder
fare.
MONDAY, DECEMBER
26
Falkland Islands
e arrived here just after six this morning. pilot in Stanley, the capital,
we came down
Having picked up a
to the south coast,
where
there are rookeries, both for Magellan penguins and for king penguins.
About 8 A.M., we went to shore on a nice sandy beach for a change. No slippery boulders, no raging surf. Then we started a walk for about a mile or so down the beach, where we saw the Magellan penguins
They cut these burrows in the ground just like rabbits and dwell there. They seem more skittish than some of the other penguins we have seen, for they are quickly into their burrows as soon as you get near to them. If you encounter them along scurrying into their burrows.
the beach, they jump into the waves and swim away. There was a it
was interesting
It's
the only place
sheepherder's bright white plaster house nearby, and to see the sheep intermingling with the penguins.
on earth that you'll get that picture. As we continued to the southern edge of the beach on the other side from where we landed, we met the most impressive penguins that we have seen thus far, the kings. They weigh about eighty pounds and stand about four feet high. They seem a trifle smaller than the emperors that I encountered at McMurdo Sound twenty-five years ago. However, the kings are a great bird in their larger
than the other penguins we have seen on
300
own
right,
this trip
much
and rather
THEODORE way they walk and
regal in the
HESBURGH
M.
in their red
and yellow coloring
in
They are also quite unafraid them without startling them.
addition to their black-and-white tuxedo.
and one can walk within
Ned managed It
a few feet of
to pet a couple of them.
seemed good
to get a long walk back up the
landing place. We've been cooped up somewhat for the
and everybody was anxious quite favorable. degrees.
It
no rubber pants and had Mass
two days,
The weather was also was overcast, with a temperature of about 45 I
just
this time.
at 11:30
makes the
factor always
wore a regular wool
shirt
beneath
with our Notre
Dame
eleven
couple. After lunch,
time on this
first
And
it.
We were back to the ship just before
be visiting Stanley, and for the
we'll
last
to stretch their legs.
Although down here the windchill
red parka feel good,
beach to our
this
trip,
afternoon we won't have to wear boots. Stanley should be interesting because the Falklands war was
mainly fought on land around inside
and the
this capital,
them
British nipping
with the Argentinians
off at every point.
The
naval
action took place between this island and the other large island,
although there are
penguin watching Point.
that
No one
Ned
many
this
smaller islands in this group. All of our
morning was done on a place called Volunteer
seems to know why
says the
to go out there
shepherd
who
it's
called Volunteer Point, except
lives in
the white house volunteered
and take care of the sheep. Until we get a better
explanation, we'll go with that one.
As soon
as
we were
or fifteen miles. There is
back aboard, we came around the northern
Falkland Island and into Port Stanley, a
tip of East
which
all
we met
trip of
about ten
our sister ship, the World Explorer,
a little larger than ours,
carrying 150 rather than
100
Amazon
The last November when she was going upriver and we down. As soon as we got to Port Stanley, the weather changed abruptly from fortyish and overcast to a steady sleety rain that made the time we saw her was
passengers.
in the middle of the
a year ago
temperature seem below zero. Also, the wind came up, which added to the cold
and
chill.
Again, we donned our foul-weather gear and
boarded a local launch that took us into the Right on the harbor front cathedral,
which used
jetty.
down the main
street
is
to be the bishopric for all of Latin
everything in the Antarctic.
Now 301
it's
the Anglican
America and
the parish church for the
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&
Falklands and other surrounding islands and South Georgia, some 300 or
400 miles from here, from which our
came
sister ship,
morning. Incidentally, she was
this
foul weather.
We
were coming into
at
it
six
hours late because of the
an angle and she had
in the face. In other words, she pitched while
We
stopped at the cathedral
we
Board
a military chaplain
enormous battleship
War
here during World
World War
II.
and involved
which was dogged destroyers.
of that
who won
many
years
had
changed. There's an
a battle against the
is
Germans
battle nearby during
generally called the Battle of the River
famous German battle
a
is
There was another
I.
This one
all
the sanctuary that was given to the church
flag in
by the daughter of the admiral
in the
and
on our Advisory
cathedral was built ninety years ago and for
a bishop here. Now, of course,
Plate
is
Notre Dame's Ecumenical Institute in Tantur, near Jerusa-
for
The
lem.
right
rolled.
good friend of Bishop Robin Woods, who
a
it
saw the creche, and had a talk
He had been
with the rector. Father Murphy. is
first,
the World Explorer,
the Graf Spee,
cruiser,
the way to Uruguay by some outgunned British
all
They performed with
extraordinary valor, such as ours did
second battle of the Philippines. The British naval squadron
returned here after the River Plate engagement.
We
continued down the main
found a small shop and a post
bought the local coins.
I
street a
office.
few more blocks, where we
Ned made
also purchased
a few purchases
some Falkland stamps
About the only worthwhile items
library collection.
are sweaters, since the islands are full of sheep
Catholic church.
We
is
St.
member
of the Mill Hill Fathers, English missionaries,
his
When
priest,
He was a and his name us.
asked him where he was from, meaning
homeland, he mentioned Sames in the southern Tyrol. It's
about one chance in a million that meeting the parish priest
up a Ladin
in the Falklands turns
my
I
lot of
Mary's, the
knocked on the rectory door and a young
whose mother tongue was obviously German, greeted was Tony Agreiter.
I
in these shops
and they do a
knitting here. Right across from the post office
and
for our
first
summer
after
University in Rome. Brixen, in German).
Sames I
is
my
from the town where first
I
spent
year at the Gregorian
a small village above Bressanone (or
don't think one-millionth of the people in the
know where Sames Ferdinand Plottner, who
world
priest
completing
knew the ran the guesthouse where we is.
Father Tony even
302
priest,
Hen-
stayed that
THEODORE summer
HESBURGH
M.
of 1938. In fact, he told us a funny story.
were inspecting the
village,
was
it
at
Christmastime.
When the Nazis When they saw
Herr Plottner's creche, they tried to embarrass him by asking, "What
He
this?"
is
said,
"What do you
Bethlehem, and look
ox
is
closer, here
Mussolini and the donkey
is
is
think
it
the creche of
It's
an ox and here
Hitler. "
a donkey.
is
The next day
concentration camp, but he survived
off to a
is?
it,
they sent
The him
although somewhat
broken physically on his return. Good old Father Plottner. He always spoke before he thought, although in
would agree with what he
this case
I
think
many
of us
said.
WTiile having some schnapps and a cigar. Father Tony told us
knew some
that he
of our Holy Cross priests in Uganda, where he
Ned and Terry Hughes went out to do some more shopping. wandered down to the monument of the 1982 Falklands war. The inscription on the monument reads: "To our served
some
years ago, then I
1982." Father Tony told us that there are about 1,800
liberators,
people in the Falklands, most of them here on East Falkland Island
and maybe a few hundred over on West Falkland visiting a couple of small islands off
Island.
We'll be
West Falkland tomorrow
the rookeries for rockhopper penguins (our sixth and
to see
last species)
and
the giant albatross. Father Tony also told us that he has about 250
who live on the island and also military who happen to be Catholics.
Catholics out of some 1,800 people
he takes care of about 300 of the
He
also ministers to the military
miles from here.
now
there right
We ever
He
able to
is
for the
fly
on Ascension
up with the
Island,
some 2,000
military. His assistant
is
Christmas season.
continue to encounter these "small world" happenings wher-
we go
in this wide, wide world.
Stanley has a very English look and
lifestyle,
as
one
finds
throughout the former British Empire. The Anglican church could have come right out of any village in England, although the Catholic
church was
and
it
simple.
is
built, also
pretty plain.
There
guess that
There
is
The houses
are practically
in their fireplaces for 1
ninety years ago, by some Norwegian carpenters
no
are Britishy, but in a
trees
warmth. Even
on the
so,
island, so they
way more
bum
peat
the rooms are quite cold, but
the British style too.
are a few wrecks in the harbor. People
who had
time getting through the Strait of Magellan generally
303
a hard
came back here
TRAVELS WITH TED and were often
as a place of refuge
the harbor.
was
It
also used a
NED
&.
so battered that their ships sank in
good deal during the California gold
when people had to go to California by sailing around Cape Horn. Some just didn't make it and limped back here. The memory of the invasion of the islands by the Argentinians on April 2, 1982, is still very strong here. The whole island was only defended by about 80 Royal Marines when the Argentinians arrived with 10,000 troops, mainly schoolboys who were told they were going to another part of Argentina where they would be welcomed. The Argentinians were really surprised when the British took them up on
rush,
and came
their dare
in here with a force a fourth the size of the
Argentinians and whipped them badly and very quickly. Most people
was unnecessary to sink the Argentinian battleship Belgrano
felt it
with a
loss of life of
from here
almost 400, since she was several hundred miles
the time and not engaged in the action directly.
at
Argentinian planes flying over from the mainland would arrive here
with only
minutes of combat time before returning
five
of fuel depletion.
The Argentinians used mostly A-4s
obtained from us and did
one being the
aluminum
Sheffield,
to be
to sink
which had
They
scuttled. All in
quite a large loss of
also badly all,
make
life
vessels,
because the
No more aluminum
damaged
t\vo troopships,
for
which
though, the Argentinians fought
ver>'
Many
fliers
back because returning to the Argentinian coast found
it
lost
All in
fuel before they could land.
them running out of Argentinians
had
that they
badly, even though their air force performed feats of valor. didn't
because
two or three British
superstructure burst into flames.
British naval ships.
had
manage
home
about a fourth of their
air force,
all,
the
mostly to British
Harrier planes.
From
all
we could
learn, the Falkland Islanders are a rather tight-
knit group and are happy to be back in the British fold and don't even to think about being turned over to Argentina, even
want
though the
Argentinians continue to call these islands the Islas Malvinas.
From
we have
in so
the looks of the weather today, again
many
other places, this
live here.
your
They
say
is
we can
say, as
a nice place to visit but
I
wouldn't want to
you can count the sunny days on the
hand, and when
it
rains
and
sleets at the
in for a chilling, stinging experience,
fingers o{
same time, you're
which was ours
really
today.
Tonight we have the deferred Christmas dinner and the captain's
304
THEODORE cocktail party.
It
HESBURGH
M.
was too rough
for
make
they
Christmas Day. The dinner
it
turned out to be about seven courses,
well prepared. Fortunately,
all
their courses small so that
one can sample almost every-
thing without feeling stuffed.
Ned went minutes or
said
Ned bought
at once.
movie tonight, but quit
to the
He
so.
was rubbish.
it
It's
first
published by Reader's Digest and
complete physical, historical,
and geological look
photography
book
is
as well.
Barbara Tuchman's
particularly the naval part.
well done.
She never
We're both reading
new It's
American Catholicism.
It's
and conservative or pre-Vatican
II
and
I
Gene
think does
it
tries to get into
quite well.
John Paul
Dame
as
II
both
I
cultures.
must carry
He
(culture
cites
He
I)
me
all
work together, but
certain matters, mainly
The
best thing
he
says
how
where
I
Eugene
as culture
I.
He
II
II is
side
by
are simply
on
to cope with II is
says,
II
puts Pope
also cites the University of
about culture
and
is
and post-Vatican
Notre
side.
the culture of the future
of the baggage of the past.
Catholicism. This mystery, he legislation, control,
book
extremely
an example of culture
as
believes that both cultures live together in the
together,
is
the subtleties of the differences,
obviously believes that culture
and culture
third
and
Church: The Two Cultures
an example of both cultures existing
Gene
The second
too easy to call Catholics liberal
and the Cardinal Archbishop of Detroit in
Won-
an interesting sociological study of the It's
II).
The
Yesterday's
two currents in the Church today.
(culture
this one.
First Salute
writes a dull book.
Kennedy's Tomorrow's Catholics, of
The
a
American Revolution,
history of the
called
is
at the Antarctic
continent and the various explorations that took place there. derful
ten
book on the Antarctic from the
a wonderful
literature stock aboard.
the
after
been reading three books
I've
He even
same Church, pray
different wavelengths in
modem
that
it
life
and
reality.
savors the mystery of
should not be buried under
a too great emphasis
on
organization. That's
was when Ned came back from the movie and we both turned
in about 11;30.
305
TRAVELS WITH TED TUESDAY, DECEMBER FaMand
I
t
NED
& 27
Islands
was quite rough during the night when we rounded East Falkland
and continued across the
Island
between the two
strait
islands to
West
Falkland Island. About six this morning, we anchored off the coast of
West Falkland
at a little island called Carcass.
The
was
island
full
of
mainly ducks and hawks, albatrosses wheeling on the seaward
birds,
guess that
means small
landbirds, like thrushes, as contrasted with the seabirds,
which tend
side,
and
a lot of little birds they call dickeys.
Anyway, there was
to be larger.
sunshine, which is
in the zodiacs. at the site
we
On
got a bit soaked
shore,
we
coming
to shore
Scotland, and
just
It's
wandered up and down the beaches
just
covered with mossy
the sheep are mainly
men and women on
horseback.
As
as a
team.
I
on
dogs, directed by
in Australia, they claim that
guess most of
it is
this
the moors of
hills like
managed by
dog can take care of 1,000 sheep and two dogs do
They work
wind
and returning
of a sheep farm which has about 1,200 sheep here
smallish island.
2,000.
and bright
a beautiful blue sky
quite a contrast from yesterday. However, the
is
quite high and
I
much
one
better with
instinct with a bit of
training.
We
all
gathered at the farmhouse, where the lady of the house
and her husband gave us least
tea
and scones. There was a table with
ten different kinds of scones on
Back
all
it,
to the ship in time for a lecture by Jack
Child on the
Falklands war. We've already picked up a lot of talk about various islanders we've met. island, but everything
never
knew
The Argentinians
was cut
to
happen
island.
They
also
saw the planes
war and they
until British
commandos
no Argentinians on
finally landed to learn that there were
flying
from the
it
didn't touch this little
off for the duration of the
what was going
quite
at
very tasty.
this small
overhead from time to time
and, of course, there was considerable naval action not too
far
from
here in the channel between the two large islands.
Mass again activities
and
at
noontime.
left for
We
had
They claim
it
on
this afternoon's
shore about 3:15. Shore happens to be
Island. Before leaving, they put in a island.
a briefing
new
rule.
No
was because of dry conditions, but
306
New
smoking on the it
looked
THEODORE pretty wet
and muddy
to
experienced on the QE2,
We
arrived at the
me.
HESBURGH
M.
think
I
once again,
it's
just prejudice against cigar
end of the
island in a cove
gentlemen who own the island both
where the two
been married three times and has had children from each other
is
married to the
They
that out.
first
gentleman's second wife,
if
wife.
you can
has
The
figure
don't talk to each other, even though they are here
this isolated place living in
prove that isolation
Once
One
with their families.
live
we had
as
smokers.
ashore,
no automatic boon
is
on
houses about 100 feet apart. This should
we climbed up
to virtue.
a long, sloping hill, mostly spongy
heath, with about 2,000 sheep here and there. At the top of the
we overlooked an enormous rookery
climb,
They
of rockhopper penguins.
are very cute, with weird yellow feather tufts
coming out of each
side of their heads, generally white against black.
unusual eye formations. slopes
them
And hop rocks
and even going down with at the top of the rookery,
above a roaring, crashing albatross,
his
make
great surefootedness.
which was about 100
Mingled with to
200 yards
were the nests of the wandering
their nests here
each
year.
and have the same mates. They don't
way and she goes
South Africa. They spread.
also have
almost built up like a chimney. They come from 4,000
miles away to nests
sea,
They
they do, coming up very steep
At nesting
hers,
he to
are terrific
New
fliers
They
use the
travel together.
He
same goes
Zealand and she possibly to
and have an enormous wing-
time, they rendezvous here within twenty-four
hours of each other.
We
were back to the shore in about an hour and a quarter and then out to the ship. Since we're at anchor and quiet, I decided to take a shower, which is a lot easier in these circumstances than when rolling 35 degrees.
It's
pretty tough to soap
up and wash
being in proximate danger of losing one's footing at any
off while
moment on
the slippery floor. Besides, the quarters are very tight in the bathroom.
Anyway, the deed
is
done and now I'm ready
to start out clean
on our
last lap.
We're going to another
inlet a
few miles up the beach and there
have a barbecue on shore. The barbecues are always great, so we look forward to a pleasant evening and maybe even early to bed. Who
we'll
knows?
When we
return to the ship after the barbecue tonight,
307
we begin
TRAVELS WITH TED
NED
&
our long journey over 300 miles from here to Punta Arenas, via the
famous
We
Strait of Magellan.
plan to get there about 9 A.M. the day
tomorrow, which means about a day and a half of
after
sailing, if all
goes well and the weather behaves.
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER En
Route
to
2
Punta Arenas
Nc
ot so rough during the night, but a steady roll that
to.
We
woke up
one
gets used
to a moderately bright day with thin, high overcast
and the sun breaking through. All around the ship
are the
enormous
albatrosses and the smaller pintado petrels. Just watching them
makes one envious. They
are so graceful
ease. Hardly ever moving their wings
as
and they do
it
fly
with such
now
they circle the ship,
dipping to the water's edge and then soaring high above us with effortless ease.
We
No wonder
they can go thousands of miles at a time.
should be getting very near to the east coast of South
America
late this
afternoon or evening. Let's hope the calm seas keep
up.
This a
the day of winding things up.
is
new birdman who
I
They
aboard and will join the other ship, the World
Punta Arenas, before she heads south on the
Explorer, in
took.
is
A final talk on penguins by
call this
new
lecturer "Mr. Penguin Himself,"
trip
we
just
Frank Todd.
guess Peter Harrison will have to be "Mr. Albatross."
This
The
is
the day for cleaning up
all
of the loose ends, also packing.
nice thing about a sea trip like this
once.
Then
wonderful to
there
is
the matter
us, trying to find
is
of tips
that you only have to pack to a crew that has
been
the tickets where one thought he put
them two weeks ago, deciding what to throw away and what to keep, and generally getting some order into the chaos of
Our German
captain, Ralf Zander,
is
this cabin.
giving us a farewell cocktail
party tonight and the captain's farewell dinner, of course, following that.
They then
Lounge very
at
little
will feature
9:30 P.M. There
music and dancing in the Explorer's
may be
music, but
I
suspect there will be
dancing, since we'll be arriving at Punta Arenas around six
tomorrow morning,
all
going well.
308
THEODORE
HESBURGH
M.
THURSDAY, DECEMBER
29
Punta Arenas, Chile
e arrived at
6:30 for
Mass
Now we're
at
Punta Arenas
at six this
seven with our Notre
off for a bus tour of the city,
morning and we're up
Dame couple, Bob and Ruth. which we saw quite thoroughly
a year ago
when we were down
Canepa.
was the farthest south of our Latin American
It
here with Ernie Bartell and George
gone considerably more to the south We'll have lunch and a
hope
little free
It's
been another great
some good
Kennedy book to
trip, for
as chaplains. last
time in town before leaving at later, to
At
to
Airlines.
which we
least
we
are grateful.
tried.
night and have a couple more
I
think we
finished the
I
I
Gene
can read en route
Notre Dame. After getting back from the deep south, our biggest
desire
is
to find out what's
News aboard
weeks.
ship
happened is
Time magazine when we get
As we
in the world during the past
At
least
trip
trip
home was
Route
airplane,
a
727,
As
flight to
returned this
the way to Miami.
all
Miami. Actually, we used the
which meant we had usual,
we
didn't get the
emergency door, through which cold
wasn't doing very recline,
We
was nice from Punta Arenas to Santiago, where we spent a
Guayaquil, Ecuador. to the
is.
30
about what one could expect.
couple of hours waiting for our
same
hope there
Home
time on Ladeco Airlines from Punta Arenas
The
I
say in Chile, adios.
En JL he
two
sketchy at best. Anyway, there's always to Santiago.
FRIDAY, DECEMBER
much
air
to stop for fuel
best seats.
was
I
whereas mine wouldn't recline
at all.
infiltrating.
An>^ay,
it
at
was next
better; his seat kept sliding back to
Ned full
was a long
was impossible to cut the meat
We were so crammed in that dinner without being a contortionist. Anyway, we arrived in Miami
night. at
Miami, where we
tomorrow morning. At 9 A.M., back
to arrive about 5:30
Chicago and South Bend via Midway
did
We've
trip.
this time.
and then two hours
5 P.M. for Santiago
at
on time and our bags
it
arrived too, thanks be to the
309
Good
Lord.
TRAVELS WITH TED Then Ned went
off to the Fiesta
Bowl
in
NED
&
Tempe, Arizona, and
I
came back to South Bend. This time I came on Midway AirUnes and arrived on time in Chicago for my short connection to South Bend. When we all boarded the small commuter airplane, the second engine wouldn't start, so we had to take another small plane to Elkhart, where Marty, our
faithful chauffeur,
was waiting.
him from Chicago and divert him to Elkhart. As expected, the pile of mail was very high and at
it
past midnight, but
as befits
I'm
mostly under control and
Christmastime. This time
American is
it's
was able to
1
it
all
really adios.
is
still
of
working
it is
Our
Foundation for the Survival and Development of
call
good
Russian-
Humanity
having a meeting in a few days in Washington and then another
meeting in Moscow beginning on January off to a
good
start.
Amid
his group in Russia
So the New Year
1
might collaborate with him
on promoting human
countries, as well as in the Third World. All in
a great year.
Ned
And
New
Year.
all for
rights in all,
1
both of our
look forward to
has the responsibility of getting us a victory in
Tempe. So does Lou Holtz.
one and
gets
the large stack of mail tonight was a letter
from Andrei Sakharov suggesting how
and
13.
a great
with that, good night and
310
God
bless
AFTERWORD ^v
A,
.nd so the yearlong journey
came
to
an end.
(if
you take out the in-betweens)
had gone exactly
It
we had hoped:
as
new and unusual
different experience with
a totally
scenes and people, each
day a welcome surprise.
Retirement had begun with a bang, not a whimper.
made had
a clean break between the old
to admit that
surprisingly
What
much
gets
had
had happened was unplanned, but
that
welcome and within the span of our previous hopes. does one think and do
over? Obviously, especially
one
We
and the new. Looking back, we
down
to
if
when
—
it
one belongs
work again, and
so
we
do
to
first
clean break
to a religious
—
is
community,
have. In the four years that
have so quickly passed since the end of our
more than enough
that
trips,
we have both found
at the university, as well as
beyond, thank
God. We've made
clear to all of our associates at the university that
know and understand
that
we
fact.
Naturally, because
no we wish
are
executive vice president, nor do
we continue
we
longer the president and the to be, either in
to live at
name
or in
Notre Dame, some
colleagues occasionally try to get us to voice an opinion
when
a
controversy or a crisis arises. We remind them that we have no desire to second-guess our able successors. These fine young Holy Cross priests are
even
going their
own good way and
our comments are unneeded,
we were of a mind to comment, which we aren't. Our friends and associates are still old friends, and associates if
311
too,
TRAVELS WITH TED although on a different footing. gracefully, but
with a
It
takes a
goodwill
little
little
NED
&
time for this to happen
around, and especially no
all
on our part, it happens naturally enough. News media remain inquisitive. That's natural too, because you can't shut them off completely after years of giving them frequent hypersensitivity
However,
interviews.
changed retire
status,
they too
someday, and
In a way,
one
if
they'll
honest with reporters about one's
is
come want
to understand. They'll also have to to
do
would have been
it
gracefully.
it
easier
despite our returning here as ex-this to be helpful in
some ways.
We
we had
if
thousand miles away from Notre Dame, but
I
retired a few
have this sense that,
and ex-that, we have been able
have a
fairly
open and
relationship with the alumni of our thirty-five years here.
positive
They
are
always reminding us of wonderful encounters during years past, and
we do
and thank
laugh, reminisce,
God
together for good years,
generous graces, and happy memories.
Then new
there are the worldwide challenges in the work that the
administration has commissioned us to do through the various
Dame
Notre
international institutes
on peace, economic and
development in the Third World, human
political
ecumenism, and
rights,
now to become even more involved worldwho direct these institutes by keeping them
ecology. Because I'm free
wide,
I
can help those
informed on what
is
happening in
several
dozen similar organizations
around the world.
Ned boards,
has his collateral
giving
me
on
of duties, serving
wise guidance
a variety of fronts.
on
several foundation
on the Knight Commission on
and lending
Intercollegiate Athletics, efforts
list
his expertise to fund-raising
Somehow
all
both hope we can continue
—and not be
to be useful
We
the days pass quickly.
never seem to get really caught up on
we
that needs doing, but in the
—
way
as
the years pass. 1
guess
we
are particularly blessed to belong to such
an under-
standing institutional family in which the old team can find meaningful service
Most
without being at cross-purposes with the new leadership.
retirees don't
have
it
that easy, but the world
the opportunities and the needs are many. retirees
could find such a
fruitful
I
niche as we have.
might have such a wonderful year
off as
312
we
did.
is
very large and
would hope that I
also
There
is
all
hope that nothing
all
like
'
THEODORE it
to give
one pause and perspective on the years
determination to make them I
HESBURGH
M.
began by saying that
retirement.
1
yet ahead
this
is
a
book about
travel,
but also about
would hope that these few notes would reassure fellow go on, and can be
retirees that life does
all
that
we want
to be.
it
the difference between stopping dead and changing course.
choose the
There
is
latter
and continue
I
remember the wonderful
final stanza
that has
'The fbetry of Robert
from Robert
Frost's
Taken":
roads diverged in a wood, and
took the one
And
happy and productive.
it.
poem "The Road Not Two
to be both
It's
May you
a way for everyone, different for each. You just have to find
your path and follow Just
and a
fruitful.
I
—
less traveled by,
made
all the difference.
Frost, edited
by
E. L.
Latham (New
1969), p. 105.
313
York: Holt, Rinehart
and Winston,
INDEX
Acapulco (Mexico), 191-92, 267 Adelaide (Australia), 217-18 Adler, Mortimer, 7, 26 Agra (India), 234, 235 Agreiter, Father Tony, 302, 303 Agren, Marty, 272
Barbados (Lesser Antilles), 173 Barnes, Harry, 149 Baro, Father Ignatius Martin, 100-101
Agriculture,
Bartell, Father Ernie, 148, 150,
7, 9,
Baja California, 192, 265
Nunez de, 188 Bangkok (Thailand), 243-44 Balboa,
22, 50, 52, 73, 88, 97,
111, 118, 120-21, 139, 165, 184, 206,
Bartmen,
242
Alegria (Peru), 116
250, 254, 257, 260, 262, 264 Beijing (China), 247, 251, President),
96
164-65, 167 Arias Sanchez, Oscar (Costa Rican dent), 103
Belem
rights in,
Presi-
(Brazil), ix, 130,
Arizona, 74-77
Besoain,
Bhabha, Dr. Homi, 236
Aruba (Netherlands Antilles), 174 Aspen (Colorado), 7, 8
Biolchini,
Western, 221
Avarua (Rarotonga), 202 Aylwin, Patricio (Chilean President), 148 Azcona Hoyo, Jose (Honduran President),
95-96 Badajos (Brazil), 126 Bailey,
Al and Mary, 246
132-33
Bellingham (Washington), 56, 60 Beltranena, Luis and Renee, 92, 95 Bercher, Kenneth, 238, 239
Arizona (ship), 262
Asuncion (Paraguay), 159-61 Auckland (New Zealand), 203-8 Australia, 206, 212-23 economic situation, 219
253-55
Belcher, Jon, 229
Argentina, 162-67, 295
human
26
7,
Bauchman, Bob and Alice, 47-48, 225, 228 Bay of Islands (New Zealand), 204, 205 Beagle Channel (Tierra del Fuego), 277, 278 Beauchamp, Father Bill, x Beauchamp, Faye, 225, 228, 230, 234, 245,
ix,
Anchorage (Alaska), 62-65 Antarctica, 280-300 Antigua (Guatemala), 92 Arctic Circle, ix, 64 Arevalo, Cerezo (Guatemalan
156
203-4
Barzun, Jacques,
60-69 Albuquerque (New Mexico), 77-79 Alaska,
Bill,
Omar, 105
Billington, Jim, xii-xiii
45,
Bob and 46-47
Fran, 37, 38, 39-40, 44,
Blanco, Monsignor Guillermo, 166
Bogota (Colombia), 83, 104-5 Boiling,
Bombay
Landrum, 177 (India), 233-37
Bonaire (Netherlands Antilles), 174
Botany Bay (Australia), 206 Brademas, John, xii Brady, Jerry and Ricci, 40 Brandon, Allen, 78 Brazil, ix, 142-46 Brenner, Steve, 61
314
INDEX 96 Columbia (Canada), 53-54
Corcovado (Mountain, Brazil), 142, 144 Cordon, Adolfo and Margaret. 92, 95 Corrigan, Gene, 3 Cortez, Hernando. 87, 90, 106
Briggs, Ted,
British
Brooks, Dr. Edward, 237
Canyon (Utah),
Bryce
31
Buckley, Father Joe, 207
Cortez (Colorado), 21 Cosenza, Humberto, 97
Buechner, Colonel Carl, 298
Buenos Aires (Argentina), 83, 162-67 Burke, Father John,
Costa Rica, 102-3 Cottingham, Mike, 43 Cousteau, Jacques, 282, 292 Crater Lake (Oregon), 69-71 Cristobal (Panama), 189 Cronin, Tom and Tanya, 26-27
xii, xiii
Butte (Montana), 49
Byron, Ted, 59
Cabot, Tom, 173
Cuemavaca (Mexico), 90-91 Cunningham, Ollie, xv, 59, 79
Caldera, Rafael, 269
70-74 Callahan, Brian, 246 Cambodia, 245 California,
Campbell, David, 119, 132 Canada, 53-55 Canberra (Australia), 213 Canepa, Father George, 147, 148, 150, 156,
276 Canty, Rev.
Curasao (Netherlands Antilles), 174, 175 Curtin, Mike, 158 Custer, Colonel George, 10 Cuxin Mini (Brazil), 124 Cuzco(PeRi), 109-11, 113-14 D'Arcy, Father Bernard, 183, 227, 243, 245,
W., 228 Cape Horn (Chile), 278-80, 281 Caracas (Venezuela), 269
257, 271
J.
Carley, Father Fat, 35
Deception Island (Antarctica), 281, 283 Decio, Art, xv, 3, 80 Deforestation, 120-22
Carlisle, Kitty, 173
Delany, Father Charles, 276
Carlton, Colonel Charles, 97
De La
Cartagena (Colombia), 175, 176, 187 Carter, Jimmy, 149, 259 Carter, Rosalynn, 177
de Lesseps, Ferdinand, 188
South Dakota), San Francisco (Bogota, Colombia), 106 Catlin, George, 40 Cavanaugh, Father John, xi, xii, xiii, xv, 7 Caves of Kanheri (India), 236 Charlotte Amalie (St. Thomas), 184, 185, Falls,
186
Cheyenne (Wyoming),
13
Child, Jack, 297, 306 Chile,
ix,
104, 105
Bill and Yolanda, 84, 85, 88, 91 Denver (Colorado), 13 de Sa, Gustavo and Cristiana, 142, 143, 144,
Compania (Bogota, Colombia), 106 (Sioux
Ramon,
Dellekamp,
Cathedrals St. Joseph's
Ton-e,
145 !
Dias de Moura, Father Laercio, 143
Donoso, Father Fermin, 148 Dorsey, Father Joe, 147, 276 Drake, Francis, 175
Drake Passage, 279, 280-81, 295, 297 Drigueros, Guillermo, 100
Drug
trade, 105, 117
Duarte, Jose Napoleon (Salvadoran President), 99
147-54, 276-80, 309
Duncan, Vince, 22 Dunn, John, 162, 167
China, 251-56 Cholula (Mexico), 89 Cintron, Juan, 84, 85, 87, 88, 90, 194
Easter Island, 198
Clark, David, 160 Cliff dwellings (Utah),
Coari
(Brazil),
21-22
126
Cody, Bill (Buffalo Bill), 44 Colombia, 104-6, 175, 187, 189 Colon (Panama), 189 Colorado, 7, 13, 15-18, 21-29
Columbus, Christopher, 188 Conroy, Terry and Bobby, 233 Coober Pedy (mine), 217-18 Cook, Captain James, 206, 216 Cook, Mount (New Zealand), 210
Cook
Islands,
198
Coos Bay (Oregon), 69-70
East Falkland Island (Falkland Islands), 303
Ecuador, 105-6
Eden, Mount (New Zealand), 207
Edgecumbe, Mount (Alaska), 61, 62 Eisenhower Tunnel (Colorado), 14, 15 Elephant Island (Antarctica), 294, 295, 296,
300 Elliott,
Win, 197
Ellsworth, Lincoln, 282 El Salvador,
99-102
English, Father Joe, 157, 158
Eureka (California), 70-71 Emngelista (ship),
315
ix,
155-57
INDEX Facusse, Mike, 95, 97
Halfpenny, Sarah, 173
Fairbanks (Alaska), 65-68
Halligan, Father John, 106
Falkland Islands, 162, 295, 296, 299, 300-8
Halluska,
Ed and Helen, 237 Hank, Jerry and Joyce, 4, 5, 17, 33, 45, 48 Hansen, Waldemar, 196, 223, 232, 234
Farmer, Father Paul, 202
Fenlon, Father Tom, 52
Fernando de Noronha Fiji, 203 Fischer, Ed, 226
(Brazil),
Harney, Mount (South Dakota), 11
137
Harriman, Pamela, 173 Harrison, Peter, 134, 135, 136, 141, 277,
280, 290, 297, 308
Fisher, Frederick Vining, 32
Fishing,
Harvey, Len and Ann, 243
40-41, 63, 126, 206, 230, 248, 262,
Hawaii, 198, 260-63
283 Flynn,
Tom and
Foley,
Archbishop
Hawkins, Thomas, 175
Ruth, 262 Bill,
Herzog, Herman, 40
222
Hesburgh, James, 13, 73
Ford, Gerald, 17, 18 Forests, National,
Hesburgh Center
29
Black Hills (South Dakota), 12
for International Studies,
265, 271
Dixie (Utah), 31
Hickel, Walter, 62
Gallatin (Idaho), 48
HoUiday, Tom, 163 Honduras, 95-99
Targhee (Idaho), 47 Tbngass (Alaska), 61
Hong Kong, 245-48
Franca, Celio, 27
Honolulu (Hawaii), 259, 262 Hood, Mount (Oregon), 58
Fremantle (Australia), 220-23
Hosinski, Helen, 18, 28, 46, 72, 142, 186,
Foxley, Alejandro, 148
Fundeen, Pat and Carl, 63
217, 265
Gallivan, Jack, 33
Gamble, Jody, 266 Garcia, Alan (Peruvian President), 107-8 Gauguin, Paul, 196-97
Columba, 222
Howard, Hughes,
Terry, 295, 296, 297,
Humane
Imperative,
Sister
303 The (Hesburgh), 86
Hunger, John, 259 Hunthausen, Father Jack, 51, 52 Hurley, Archbishop Frank, 62, 63, 68
Geological history, 19-20, 31, 39, 75, 184, 210, 219
Idaho, 47-48
Giganti, Jorge, 141
233-37
Gilbert, Ralph, 237
India,
Gildred, Ted, 164
Indian Ocean, 241
Owen, 237, 239 Ben and Rosalie, 260
Gingerick,
International date line, 203, 239, 261
Gingiss,
Iowa, 5-7 Iquitos (Peru), ix, 115
Glacier Express (ship), 68 Glaciers, 51, 62, 68, 151, 153, 154, 295,
296
Glenwood Springs (Colorado), 18 God, Country, hlotre
Dame
(Hesburgh),
192
Iturralde, Ernesto, Ivers,
106
Jim, 34
xi,
Jackson,
Anne and Jack, 272
Goethals, George, 189
Jackson (Wyoming), 37-47
(British Columbia), 53-55 Goldsmith, Donald, 237, 238 Gorgas, William, 189
Jalapa (Mexico), 87
Gorglum, Gutzon,
Johore Bahru (Malaysia), 242
Golden
11
Japan,
257-60
Johore, Sultan of (former)
Grand Canyon (Arizona), 18, 74-76 Grand Junction (Colorado), 18
Jones, Charlie, 192
Grant, Jim and Ethel, 259, 260 Great Australian Bight, 218, 220
Judge, Father Tony, 126
Great Wall (China), 251 Griffin, Walter Burley, 213-14 Grimes, George, 14 Griswold, Dean, 177
Guatemala, 92-97 Guatemala City (Guatemala), 93-95
Juarez- Paz, Rigoberto,
Half
Moon
Island (Antarctica), 294
241
94
Juneau (Alaska), 68-69 Kaiser, Father
Roman, 63
Kaplow, Herbert, 186, 190 Kauai (Hawaii), 262
Keams, Tom, 34 Keeler, Ruby, 194, 196, 201,
Keith, David, 34
Hagerty, Fred, 157
,
Kenna, Doc, 83, 136, 199 Kenya, 228-30
316
204
1
INDEX Kenyatta, Jomo, 229
Mascarene archipelago, 227
Keough. Dtm, 269 King George Island (Antarctica), 290, 291 King Salmon (Alaska), 63 Knox, Father Ronald, xii Kompare, Or. Edward, 75, 76 Kotzebue (Alaska), ix, 64, 65, 66 Kraft, John, 229 Kroc, Joan, 83, 265 Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia), 240-41
Massie, Robert,
La Guaira (Venezuela), 269-70 Landiver, Rafael, 92 Lang, Federico, 98 Lantao Island (Hong Kong), 248
Micronesia, 198
Leader, Boh, 8 Lederer, Eppie, 84, 113 Leibin,
Bob and Ruth, 282-83
xii
Maui (Hawaii), 262-63 Mauritius, 224-28
Mekong
Delta, 245
Melanesia, 198
Melbourne (Australia), 215-17 Mesa Verde (Colorado), 21 Mexico, ix, 84-92, 267 Mexico City (Mexico), 84-88 Michener, James, 61, 174, 255
Midway
Island, 261
Mignone, Emilio, 164 Mining, 23, 34-35, 48, 90, 142, 221 Missoula (Montana), 49 Missouri Valley (Iowa), 5-7
Moab
(Utah), 18
Leon, Patsy, 84 Leticia (Colombia), 117
Molas Lake Pass (Colorado), 23 Molokai (Hawaii), 262
Levy, Gabriel and Sylvia, 269, 270
Mombasa
107-9 Lindberg, Kay Kelly, 217, 218 Link, David, 222 Livermore (California), 73
Montana, 49-52
Lima
(Peru),
Livestock, 24, 121, 151, 165, 206, 214, 219,
306, 307 Lleno, Dr. Sabino, 88 Lloyd, Frank, 67
Long Beach
(California), 194
Lopez de Legazpe, Miguel, 267 Lord, Betty Bao, 254, 255
Monument
Moore, Bishop Paul, 1 73 Moorea, 198, 199, 200 Moriwaki, Father Peter, 258 Morrison, Bernard, 214 Moynihan, Jim, 258 Murphy, Father Mike, 51 Murray, Father Ray, 65
Museums Buffalo Bill (Cody, Wyoming), 37 Great American Wildlife (Jackson, Wyoming), 39, 42
Lozano, Ignacio and Marta, 148
Don, 67
Imperial
McBrien, Father Dick, 208 McCafferty, Father Mike, 9, McCarthy, Paul, 66
(Peru), 83,
(Petrolis, Brazil),
144
Museum
of History and Anthropology (Mexico City, Mexico), 84 National Museum (Kuala Lumpur, Malay-
1
sia),
240
Prince of Wales
Museum (Bombay,
234
111-13
Mackay, Bishop John, 202 Macks Inn (Idaho), 47-48 Madagascar, 228 Mahe (Seychelles), 231 Malaysia, 237-41 Malloy, Father
Museum
Museo de Oro (Quito, Ecuador), 107
McDermott, Father Tom, 228, 229 McEneaney, Father John, 8 McGovem, George and Eleanor, 232, 233 MacGregor, Felipe, 108
Machu Picchu
Valley (Arizona), 77
Mooney, John, 36
Lord, Winston, 246, 253, 254 Lucia,
(Kenya), 228-30
Nanjing (China), 247 Native groups, 161 Aboriginal, 220
Aleut, 66
Amazonian, 115-16, 118, 122-24 Anasazi, 21, 22, 32, 42, 76
"Monk," x
Malvinas Islands. See Falkland Islands Mansfield, Mike, 259
Apache, 66 Athabaskan, 66
Maran, Stephen, 238 Marchant, Ricardo, 269 Margeot, Archbishop Jean, 227 Marinho, Roberto, 143 Mariscal, Nicholas and Mari Carmen, 91 Marroquin, Bishop Francisco, 92 Martinique (Lesser Antilles), 173, 174, 270
Aztec, 89, 106, 191
Caribbean, 184
Ecuadoran, 105
Eskimo, 66 Guatemalan, 93 Hopi, 75 Inca, 83, 106,
317
109-11
India),
INDEX Maori, 206, 207
Pattaya (Thailand),
Mauritian, 227
Peace Corps, 96, 157, 158-59, 160, 254 Pearl Harbor (Hawaii), 261, 262
Maya, 90, 106
243-44
Peru, 107
Pembroke Peak (New Zealand), 210 Penang (Malaysia), 239-40
Polynesian, 198
ftnfold, John, 96, 97
Navajo, 21, 66, 75, 76
Needles (California), 73-74
People's Republic of China. See
Nelson Island (Antarctica), 290, 291 New Mexico, 77-79 New Zealand, 198, 201-11 Niemeyer, Oscar, 146 Nome (Alaska), 64, 66 Noriega, Manuel (Panamanian President), 268 North Island (New Zealand) 206
Perth (Australia), 221-23
107-14 Don, 159-60 I^tropolis (Brazil), 144-45 Pfeiffer, Ralph and Jane, 272 Philip, Captain Arthur, 204 Pico, Cristina, 269 Pinto, Jaime, 107, 114 ftni, ix,
Peterson,
,
Pizarro, Francisco, 105, 106,
Oahu
(Hawaii), 262
O'Brien, Mike, 96, 98
Plottner, Father Ferdinand, Pollard, Morris,
O'Connor, Father Dutch, 74 Oddo, Father Tom, 57 O'Grady, Ann, 158 Oklahoma, 79 Olbrich, Captain Torsten, 141 Old Faithful (Geyser, Wyoming), 45
Polynesian triangle, 198
(Brazil),
Olivares,
Port Louis (Mauritius), 227
Eden (Chile), 155 Tony and Martha, 77 Powers, Jimmy, 266 Port of
Poter\ziani,
138
Romero, 149, 150
Rim, 222
Paekakiriki
(New Zealand), 209
Pagosa Springs (Colorado), 24 Palmer Peninsula (Antarctica), 275
Pamplona, Carlos, 191 Panajachel (Guatemala), 92-94 Panama Canal, 185, 188-90 Pao de Aqucar (Rio de Janeiro, Brazil), 144 Papeete (Tahiti), 194, 199 Paradise Bay (Antarctica), 288, 290 Paraguay, 159-61
Poyares, Walter, 143
Prance,
Arches (Utah), 19 Badlands (South Dakota), 9-11 Canyonlands (Utah), 19, 20 Custer (South Dakota), 12 Glacier (Montana), 47, 49, 51-52 Grand Teton (Wyoming), 37-39 Mesa Verde (Colorado), 21
Ann,
122, 125, 133, 135, 136, 137,
140, 141
Prance, Dr. Ian, 115, 116, 117, 120, 121 Praslin Island (Seychelles), 231
Prentice, Stewart, 93
Preveaux, Nicole, 125 Price, Vincent,
268
Provenzano, Father Frank, 147 Provo (Utah), 30
Puebla Pueblo Puerto Puerto
(Mexico), 88-90 (Colorado), 25
Hambre (Chile), 152 Limon (Costa Rica), 187-88
Puerto Montt (Chile),
ix,
Puerto Natales (Chile),
150, 157
152, 154 Puerto Williams (Chile), 278 Puma Arenas (Chile), 151-53, 309 Purcell, Phil
ix,
and Noreen, 36, 37
Purgatory (Colorado), 21-24
Queen
Park City (Utah), 33, 35-36 Parks, National
302-3
97
Poponoe, Wilson, 98 Portland (Oregon), 57-58, 68-69
O'Meara, Pete, 14 O'Murchu, Liam, 231, 242 O'Neil, Father Emmett, 51 O'Neill, Joe and Jan, 22 Oregon, 57-58, 68-71 O'Rourke, Pat, 66, 67 Osaka (Japan), 257 Oshom, Charlie, 42 Ouray (Colorado), 23, 24 Pacific
109-10
Place, Micheline, 133, 277, 297
Oceania, 198
Olinda
China
Elizabeth 2
(QE
2) (ship), ix-x, xv,
171-77, 181-309
Quito (Ecuador), 105-6 Raffles, Sir
Stamford, 241
Rafting, 38, 42
Rahner, Karl, 220 Rainforests, 120, 121, 132, 270
Ramsour, Bart and Shirley, 225 Rarotonga (Cook Islands), 198, 201-3
Sitka (Alaska), 61
Recife (Brazil), 138
Yellowstone (Wyoming), 38, 39, 44 Zion (Utah), 32
Reeder, Fred, 61 Refugees, 96, 245, 248
318
INDEX Religion
Salvador (Brazil), 140
African, 123, 140, 229
Sampson, Monsignor Frank, 8, 9 San Jose (Costa Rica), 103, 187-88 San Salvador (El Salvador), 100-2 Santarem (Brazil), 129
Amazonian, 123 charismatic, 140 evangelical, 123
Indian, 234, 236
Latin American, 91
Santiago (Chile), 83, 147-51, 157-59, 27678
Mormon,
Sao Paulo
30, 33, 76
native, 123
Protestant, 202 in Seychelles,
146
(Brazil),
Sarasin, Pao, 243,
244
Sato, Kimura, 259
231
Scarlet, Pete,
Thai, 244
36
Schafer, Rick, 67
Richfield (Utah), 29-30, 33
Scully, Father
Ricoy, Martin, 85
Seaborne
Rio dejaniero
(Brazil),
143-46
Seattle (Washington), 57
Rivers
Seckinger,
Amazon,
ix,
83,
Tim, 148 xv
Spirit (ship),
114-41
Bill,
67
Secoy, Ernie, 225, 228, 230, 234, 245, 250,
Arkansas, 25, 26
254, 257, 260, 262, 264
240
Big Sioux, 8
Selangor, Sultan
Colorado, 18, 19, 74
Sepiilveda, Fernando, 88, 92
Columbia, 43, 58 Green, 19, 29
Serrano, Father Felix, 94
Grey, 153
Serrano Segovia,
Margaret, 222
Seward, William Henry, 60
Mississippi, 4,
of,
Serata (island), 242
Julio,
85
Sexton, Ann, 14, 17
43
231-32
Missouri, 5, 6, 8, 9, 43
Seychelles,
Pehoe, 153
Shanghai (China), 250 Sheets, Millard and Mary, 70, 71, 72 Sherrer, Father Dave, 57, 69 Shields, Mary, 66 Shilling, Andy, 258
Snake, 37, 39, 43 Swan, 221 Tapajos, 129 Virgin, 32 Yellowstone, 43, 45 Robinson, Bishop Harold, 181-82, 244 Rodriguez, Alejandro, 85
Silverton (Colorado), 23
Roginski, Donna, 97
Singapore, 241-42
Rookeries, 283, 284, 287-88, 293, 300, 303,
Sioux
307
Simon, Father Bob, 147 Simpson, Alan and Ann, 42 Falls
(South Dakota), 7-9
Sitka (Alaska),
ix,
61-62
Roth, Pat, 28, 72, 152, 186, 217 Rotter, Frank and Hannah, 75 Rowlett, Richard, 280, 294
Slavery, 122, 139, 140, 175, 184, 185,
Rubber trade, 127, 132, 241-42 Ruben, Rabbi Alvin, 181-82, 256 Rungius, Carl, 40 Rushmore, Mount (South Dakota), Russell, Charles, 40
Smith, C.R., 192
204-5 Sloane, Father Jack, 207 Society Explorer (ship), ix, xv,
11
Rutherford, Father Dick, 57
Saba (Netherlands Antilles), 174 St. Croix (U.S. Virgin Islands), 184 St. Elias, Mount (Alaska), 62 St. Eustatius St.
Helens,
114-41, 277
Society Islands, 198
(Netherlands Antilles), 174
Mount (Washington), 58
Sorin, Father Edward, 97
South China Sea, 241, 245 South Dakota, 7-13 South Georgia Island (Falkland Islands Dependencies), 296, 302 South Island (New Zealand), 206, 209, 210 South Pole (Antarctica), 275 South Shetland Islands, 281 Spice Islands. See Seychelles
John (U.S. Virgin Islands), 184 St. Martin (Netherlands Antilles), 174 St. Thomas (U.S. Virgin Islands), 172-73, 183-86, 271 Sakharov, Andrei, 293, 310 Salhuana, Jorge Gomez, 114 Salt Lake City (Utah), 30, 76
Sprang, John, 98 Stanley (Falkland Islands), 300, 301
Salvador, El. See El Salvador
Sugarloaf Mountain. See Pao de Agiicar
St.
Stone, Edward Durrell, 87 Strait of Magellan, 83, 151, 152, 277, 303 Strait of Malacca, 241
Stroessner, General Alfredo (Paraguayan President), 159
319
1
INDEX University of Central America (San
Sullivan, Father Bud, 5
Sumatra, 239
Sun
Salvador, El Salvador), 100
247 Sweet, Larry, 67 Sydney (Australia), 212-14
University of Melbourne (Melbourne,
Tabatinga (Brazil), 116-17
University of Western Australia (Perth,
Yat'sen,
Australia),
216
University of Sydney (Sydney, Australia),
212 199
Tahiti, 194, 197,
Taj
Mahal (Agra,
Talc,
Australia), 221
India),
Xiamen
234
Sanjeev, 229
Tannock, Peter, 221 Tasmania, 198 Taxco (Mexico), 90 Taylor, Clyde, 159 Tegis, Jack, 67 Tela (Honduras),
Bill,
216
Usher, Father Juan Oscar, 160, 161 Utah, 18-21, 29-37 Vail (Colorado), 13, 15-18,
28-30
Valdez (Alaska), 62
98-100
Teran Dutari, Father
University (Xiamen Island), 249
Uren, Father
Julio,
van Eeghen, Ernst, 176, 177 Van Ness, Al, 233 Vasquez Caceres, Jose, 114 Venezuela, 268-70
106
Thailand, 243-44
Thompson, Father Andy, 126 Thompson, Sir Charles, 137 Tianjin (China), 251-53
Tienanmen Square (Beijing, China), 254 Tieman, Rob and Carol, 49, 50 Tokyo (Japan), 259
Veracrux (Mexico), 87 Vespucci, Amerigo, 137 Victoria, Mount (New Zealand)
,
207
Victoria (Seychelles), 231
Volcanoes, 70, 87, 92, 93, 103, 107, 137,
Tola, Pepe, 108
151, 199, 200, 202, 263, 270, 281, 282,
Tonga
283
Islands,
203
Trinidad Reyes, Jose, 97
Waldman, Bemie, 67
Tsavo Park (Kenya), 228 Turner, John and
Mary Kay, 38, 40, 41
Wallace, David, 259
Turrubiate, Gerardo, 85
Walsh, Dan, 67
Universities
Walsh, John and Barbara, 25 Walsh, Leo and Beverly, 62 Warner, Dick, 150
Andres Bello (Caracas, Venezuela), 269 Catholic University (Asuncion, Paraguay),
160 Catholic University
(Brasilia, Brazil),
143
Catholic University (Lima, Peru), 108 Catholic University (Rio de Janiero, Brazil),
143
Francisco Marroquin University (Guate-
mala City, Guatemala), 94, 95 Hubei University (China), 252 Iberoamericana University (Mexico City, Mexico), 86 Jos^ Matias Delgado (San Salvador, El Salvador), 100 National Autonomous University (Tegucigalpa, Honduras),
97
Washington, 56-57, 60 Weigand, Nestor, 26 Weinecke, Carl, 285 Wellington (New Zealand), 206, 209-10 West Falkland Island (Falkland Islands), 303, 306 White, Peter, 246 Wildlife, 43, 45, 62, 116, 120, 135, 136,
137, 141, 151-52, 154, 156, 191, 279,
281, 283, 284, 287-88, 291, 293, 294, 300, 303, 306, 308 Willemstad (Curasao), 175 Wilson, John, xiv Woods, Bishop Robin, 302
Wyoming, 12-13, 37-47
San Carlos de Guatemala (Guatemala City, Guatemala), 92
Santa Maria de Buenos Aires (Buenos Aires, Argentina), 166 United Nations Peace University (Costa Rica), 109 Universidad Centro (Caracas, Venezuela), 269
University of Brasilia (Brasilia, Brazil), 143
Island, 249-50 Xingang (China), 251, 253, 255
Xiamen
Yellow Sea, 251,256
Yokohama
(Japan),
258-60
Yonto, Joe, 272
Zander, Captain Ralf, 308
320
{continuedfrom front fU^)
the Foreword, Father Ted says that this book
about
just It's
a
travel, as
book about
lifelong
way of
totally
retirement.
And
yes,
last,
priest of the
changing one's ordinary,
coming
apart at
about enjoying, not dreading,
It's
A
isn't
fun as travel can be.
living without
the seams.
ping, at long
much
it's
about stopping
— stop-
to smell the roses.
Congregation of the Holy Cross,
Theodore M. Hesburgh was appointed Pre'sident Emeritus of the University of Notre Dame in 1987. He has received over 120 honorary degrees from a host of international colleges and
more than any other living person. He remains active on numerous boards, trusts,
universities,
and foundations, concentrating world peace,
human
his energies
on
rights, international devel-
opment, ecumenism, and the environment. Puntc Ara.»ot
:souTH p/^c/r/c O C £^ N
JACKET PHOTOGRAPH BY O. J. STEWART PHOTOGRAPH HAND-TINTED BY CHRISTINE RODIN JACKET DESIGN BY DOROTHY WACHTENHEIM 1192
,*r^
i
A