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The world in Venice: print, the city and early modern identity
 9780802087256, 9781442682573, 9781487525835

Table of contents :
Frontmatter
Acknowledgments (page vii)
Illustrations (page ix)
Introduction (page 3)
1 From Myth to Metropole: Sixteenth-Century Printed Maps of Venice (page 23)
2 Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies (page 70)
3 Allegory, Order, and the Singular Event (page 133)
4 Reproducing the Individual: Likeness and History in Printed Portrait Books (page 186)
Conclusion (page 256)
Notes (page 267)
Bibliography (page 351)
Index (page 395)

Citation preview

THE WORLD IN VENICE: PRINT, THE CITY, AND EARLY MODERN IDENTITY

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The World in Venice Print, the City, and Early Modern Identity

Bronwen Wilson

UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO PRESS Toronto Buffalo London

www.utppublishing.com © University of Toronto Press Incorporated 2005

Toronto Buffalo London Printed in Canada ISBN 0-8020-8725-6

Printed on acid-free paper

Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication Wilson, Bronwen The world in Venice : print, the city and early modern identity / Bronwen Wilson.

(Studies in Book and Print Culture) Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-8020-8725-6

1. Venice (Italy) — History - 1508-1797. 2. Venice (Italy) — Civilization —

To 1797. I. Title.

DG678.235.W44 2004 945'.31 C2004-903995-4

This book has been published with the help of a grant from the Canadian Federation for the Humanities and Social Sciences, through the Aid to Scholarly Publications Programme, using funds provided by the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council of Canada. University of Toronto Press acknowledges the financial assistance to its publishing program of the Canada Council for the Arts and the Ontario Arts Council.

University of Toronto Press acknowledges the financial support for its publishing activities of the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing Industry Development Program (BPIDP).

Contents

Acknowledgments vii

Illustrations 1x

Introduction 3 1 From Myth to Metropole: Sixteenth-Century Printed Maps of

Venice 23

2 Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 70 3 Allegory, Order, and the Singular Event 133 4 Reproducing the Individual: Likeness and History in Printed Portrait Books 186 Conclusion 256

Notes 267 Bibliography 351

Index 395

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Acknowledgments

Over the many years I have been working on this project, I have bene-

fited from the suggestions and ideas of numerous friends and col-

leagues through discussions, reading groups, and responses to conference papers, earlier chapters, and related articles. For their inter-

est and insights I thank Stephen Campbell, Ting Chang, Stanley Chojnacki, George Gorse, Holly Hurlburt, Frederick Ilchman, Leila Kin-

ney, Sylvia Musto, Alex Nagel, Leslie Nordtvedt, Denise Oleksiczuk, Steve Ortega, Adrian Randolph, Dennis Romano, Charles Rosenberg, Christine Ross, Nina Rowe, Johanne Sloan, Will Straw, Helena Szepe, Bart Thurber, Nancy Troy, Aron Vinegar, and Chris Wood. Angela Vanhaelen’s contribution to this project has been ongoing and is much val-

ued. Debra Pincus fuelled my interest in Venetian art history and she has continued to both inspire and encourage me. Iain Fenlon was kind enough to read the entire manuscript, and his useful comments have been much appreciated. Patricia Fortini Brown and Rose Marie San Juan were readers of the manuscript, and their criticisms and suggestions have contributed to the organization and ideas in this book in crucial ways. Moreover, their own work — on Venice and on print culture respectively — was also formative

for the project from the start. For my dissertation advisers — Whitney Davis, Ed Muir, and Larry Silver — I reserve profound gratitude and also

great respect; their intellectual acuity, insights, probity, and support have contributed in decisive and far-reaching ways to this book. Several of my students provided valuable assistance. Finally, I want to express my sincere appreciation of the heroic efforts of Jill McConkey,

Barb Porter, the copy editor Jim Leahy, and staff at the University of Toronto Press.

viii Acknowledgments

This book was made possible by the financial and academic support that I have received from Northwestern University, the University of British Columbia, McGill University, the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council of Canada, and the affiliated Aid to Scholarly Publish-

ing Programme. My research has benefited from the resources and kindness of many who assisted me at the British Library and British Museum in London, the Newberry Library in Chicago, the Bertarelli collection in Milan, the Archivio di Stato and the Marciana, Correr, Querini Stampalia libraries in Venice, and especially at Villa I Tatti in Florence.

Earlier versions of three sections of this book were published in Renaissance Quarterly, Word © Image, and Studies in Iconography. For con-

sistency, I have changed ‘u’s and ‘v’s to modern Italian. This holds true for the bibliography as well, a decision made on the basis of the same practice in some electronic library catalogues. There is one last reader of this manuscript to whom I am especially

indebted. For David Vance’s enduring support, kindness, love, and friendship, I dedicate the book to him.

Illustrations

Figure 1 Venetza. Engraved by Bernardo Salvioni. Printed by Donato Rascicotti in Venice, 1597. Engraving, 382 x 507 mm [photo: Museo Correr, Venice | Figure 2. La meravighosa Piazza de San Marco di Venetia. Printed by Donato Rascicotti in Venice. Text signed and dated: V.S.A. |...| 1599 (Vincenzo Scamozzi Architetto). Engraving, image: 375 x 500; text: 175 x 500 mm [photo: Museo Correr, Venice |

Figure 3. Jacopo de’Barbari, Venetie. Printed by Anton Kolb in Venice, 1500. Woodcut, 135 x 282 cm [photo: Newberry Library, Chicago |

Figure 4 Detail, Jacopo de’Barbari, Venetie. Printed by Anton Kolb in Venice, 1500. Woodcut, 135 x 282 cm |[photo: Museo Correr, Venice |

Figure 5 Lucantonio degli Uberti, Hlorentia. Woodcut copy after Francesco Rosselli’s engraving, 1482. Kupferstichkabinett. Staatliche Museen zu Berlin [photo: Bildarchiv PreuBischer Kulturbesitz | Figure 6 Peter Apian (Apianus, Petrus), after Ptolemy, Cosmographia ... per Gemmam Frisitum ... ab omnibus vindicata mendis (Antwerp:

Gregoria Bontio, 1550). Woodcut, 4° |[photo: by permission of the British Library London] C.114.e.2.(2.) Figure 7 World Map. Francesco Berlinghieri, Marsilio Ficino, Ptolemy, Geographia (Florence: Nicolaus Germanus, 1482) [photo: Newberry Library, Chicago] Figure 8 De sanctificatione septime dier ( Welt- und Sternenkreis), Hartmann Schedel, Nuremberg Weltchronik (Nuremberg, 1493). Woodcut,

folio [photo: Bildarchiv Preubischer Kulturbesitz |

x Illustrations Figure 9 Detail, Jacopo de’ Barbari, Venetve. Printed by Anton Kolb in Venice, 1500. Woodcut, 135 x 282 cm [photo: Newberry Library, Chicago | Figure 10 Paolo Forlani, Venetia. Printed by Bolognino Zaltieri in Venice, 1566. Engraving, 437 x 744 mm [photo: Museo Correr, Venice | Figure 11 Venetia, Georg Braun, Civitates orbis terrarum (Cologne, 1572). Hand-coloured engraving, 337 x 482 mm [photo: Newberry Library, Chicago | Figure 12 Detail, Matteo Pagan, Procession of the Doge and Patriarch of Venice, c.1560. Woodcut, eight sheets 520 x 380 mm [photo, Museo Correr, Venice | Figure 13. Girolamo Porro, Descrittione della isola et citta di Vinetia, Thomaso Porcacchi, L%sole piu famose del mondo (Venice:

Simon Galignani and Girolamo Porro, 1576). Engraving, folio |[photo: Newberry, Chicago] Figure 14 Giuseppe Rosaccio, Abzti antichi et moderni dTtalia, 1607.

Engraving |photo: Biblioteque Nationale de France, Paris| Figure 15 La citta di Venetia. ‘Text by Giovanni Nicolo Doglioni. Printed by Andrea Bertelli in Venice, 1594. Engraved map with letterpress [photo: Newberry Library, Chicago | Figure 16 Giacomo Franco, Frontispiece, Habit dhuomeni et donne venetiane (Venice: Giacomo Franco, 1610). Engraving, 232 x 177 mm |photo: Museo Correr, Venice | Figure 17 Impresa (Philip IT Rules the Four Continents), Luca Contile, Ragionamento sopra la proprieta della imprese (Pavia: Girolamo

Bartoli, 1574). Engraving, folio [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] 635.1.26 Figure 18 Abraham de Bruyn, Female Danish Costumes, Omnium pene Europae (Antwerp: M. Colyn, 1581). Engraving, oblong folio | photo: by permission of the British Library, London | 810.k.2.(1)

Figure 19 Costume engravings by Ambrosius Brambilla (after Battista da Parma). First published by Claudio Duchet in Rome around 1590 [ photo: by permission of the British Library, London] 146.1.10 Figure 20 Nicolas de Nicolay, Janissaire allant a la guerre, Nicolas de Nicolay, Les quatre premiers livres des navigations et pérégrinations

orientales (Lyon, G. Roville, 1568). Engraving | photo: by permission of the British Library, London] 455.e.5

Illustrations xi Figure 21 Abraham de Bruyn, Turkish Costumes, Omnium pene Europae (Antwerp: M. Colyn, 1581). Engraving, oblong folio [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] 810.k.2. (1) Figure 22) Mulier Virginie insule Habitatnx and Vir Virginie insule Habitator, Pietro Bertelli, Diversarum nationum habitus (Padua: Pietro Bertelli and Alcia Alciato: 1594). Engraving and etching, small 8° |[photo: by permission of the British Library, Lon-

don] 810.c.2 Figure 23. Abraham de Bruyn /talian Country Folk, Omnium pene Europae (Antwerp: M. Colyn, 1581). Engraving, oblong folio | photo: by permission of the British Library, London] 810.k.2. (1) Figure 24 Jost Amman, frontispiece, Hans Weigel, Habitus praecipuorum populorum, tam virorum quam foeminarum singulari arte depict (Nuremberg, 1577). Woodcut, folio [photo: by permission of

the British Library, London] C.119. h. 6 Figure 25 Abraham de Bruyn, Venetian Women, Omnium pene Europae (Antwerp: M. Colyn, 1581). Engraving, oblong folio | photo: by permission of the British Library, London]. 810.k.2.(1) Figure 26 Venetian Women, Jean Jacques Boissard, Habitus variarum orbis gentium (Mechlin[?], 1581) Engraving, oblong folio [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] 146.1.10 Figure 27 Virgo Veneta, Album amicorum, habitus mulierum omniu nationu Europae (Leuven: Jean-Baptiste Zangrius, 1599). Engraving,

oblong 8° [photo: by permission of the British Library, London]| €C.28.b.15 Figure 28 Cesare Vecellio, Donzelle, Habitt antichi et moderni di tutto al

mondo (Venice: Sessa, 1598) Woodcut, 8°, 20 cm [photo: Newberry Library, Chicago] Figure 29 Virgo Veneta, Pietro Bertelli, Diversarum nationum habitus (Padua: Pietro Bertelli and Alcia Alciato, 1594) Engraving, small 8° [ photo: by permission of the British Library, London] 810.c.2

Figure 30 Manuscript sheet from a fifteenth-century model book, Rome | photo: Istituto Nazionale per la Grafica, Rome] Cat. no. 35. f. 8v FN 2824v Figure 31 Abraham de Bruyn, /ialian Senators and Officials, Omnium pene Europae (Antwerp: M. Colyn, 1581). Engraving, oblong folio | photo: by permission of the British Library, London | 810.k.2. (1) Figure 32. Abraham de Bruyn, [Twelve plates of animals and insects,

xii Illustrations with descriptions in Latin verse] (Antwerp? 1583?) Engraving, oblong 8° [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] 871.h.75 Figure 33. Hans Weiditz, Verbena Mascula, Otto Brunfels, Herbarum vivae eicones (Argentorati: I. Schottum, 1530-40). Woodcut, folio, 308 x 195 mm [photo: Osler Library, McGill University, Montreal | Figure 34 Verbena Recta Sive Mas, Leonhard Fuchs, De Historia stirpium

(Basel, 1542). Woodcut, folio, 380 x 240 mm [photo: Osler Library, McGill University, Montreal] Figure 35 Cesare Vecellio, Meretrict Publiche, De gli habiti anticha, et moderni di diverse parti del mondo (Venice: Damian Zenaro,

1590). Woodcut, 8°, 20 cm [photo: Courtesy John M. Wing Foundation, The Newberry Library, Chicago] Figure 36 Cesare Vecellio, Donne la Vernata, De gli habiti antichi, et moderni (Venice: Damian Zenaro, 1590). Woodcut, 8°, 20 cm | photo: Courtesy John M. Wing Foundation, The Newberry Library, Chicago] Figure 37 Arbori. Cipresso, Andrea Alciati, Diverse imprese accommodate a

diverse moralita (Lyon: Gulielmo Rouillio, 1564) [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] Egerton 1215 Figure 38 Bilvao, George Braun, Civitates urbis terrarum, IT (Cologne, 1575). Hand-coloured engraving, folio [Courtesy Edward E. Ayer Collection, The Newberry Library, Chicago] Figure 39 Two female costumes with escutcheons dated 1574. Manuscript, watercolour, gouache, ink |photo: by permission of the British Library, London] Egerton 1191 Figure 40 Duca di Venetia from the album amicorum of P. Behaim from Nuremberg with a signature dated 1576. Manuscript, watercolour, gouache, ink | photo: by permission of the British Library, London] Egerton 1192 Figure 41 La dodesca di Venetie with signature dated 1575 from an album amicorum. Manuscript, watercolour, gouache, ink | photo: by permission of the British Library, London] Additional 15699 Figure 42 Duchessa Venetiana with signature dated 1576 from an album amicorum. Manuscript, watercolour, gouache, ink | photo: by permission of the British Library, London] Egerton 1191 Figure 43 Cortegiana Venetiana from an album amicorum. Manuscript, watercolour, gouache, ink | photo: by permission of the British Library, London] Egerton 1191

Illustrations xii Figure 44 Cesare Vecellio, Cortigiana, De gli habiti antichi, et moderna

(Venice: Damian Zenaro, 1590) Woodcut, 8°, 20 cm [photo: Museo Correr, Venice | Figure 45 Cesare Vecellio, Principessa, 0 Dogaressa, De gli habiti antichi, et moderni (Venice: Damian Zenaro, 1590). Woodcut, 8°, 20 cm | photo: Museo Correr, Venice | Figure 46 Detractio and Veritas from the album amicorum of Hieronymi

Holtzschuher from Nuremberg. Manuscript, watercolour, gouache, and ink | photo: by permission of the British Library, London] Egerton 1201 Figure 47 Cesare Vecellio, Spose in Sensa, De gli habiti antichi, et moderni (Venice: Damian Zenaro, 1590). Woodcut, 8°, 20 cm [ photo: Museo Correr, Venice | Figure 48 Giacomo Franco, Questa é dogni alto ben nido fecondo Vinetia, Hahiti deglh huomeni et donne venetiane (Venice: Giacomo Franco, 1610) Engraving, folio | photo: Museo Correr, Venice |

Figure 49 Leandro Bassano, Marin Grimani, c.1595. Oil on canvas, 1340 x 1111 |photo: Gemaldegalerie, Dresden | Figure 50 Leandro Bassano, Morosina Morosini, c.1595. Oil on canvas, 1340 x 1111 |[photo: Gemaldegalerie, Dresden | Figure 51 Delo, 1570 Francesco Sansovino, Informatione di M. Francesco Sansovino a Soldati Christiani (Venice, 1570). Woodcut | photo: by permission of the British Library, London | 1312k.15 Figure 52 Delly, Nicolas de Nicolay, Les quatre premiers livres des navigatzons et pérégrinations orientales (Lyon: G. Roville, 1568)

Engraving |photo: by permission of the British Library, London| 455.e.5 Figure 53 Giacomo Franco, Processione generale fatta in Vinegia alla publicactone della lega. L'anno M.D. LXXTI, Venice. Engraving | photo: Newberry Library, Chicago | Figure 54 Palma Giovane, Allegory of the League of Cambrai. Venice, Sala

del Senato, Palazzo Ducale. Oil on canvas, 380 x 460 cm | photo: Alinari| Figure 55 Paolo Veronese, The Battle of Lepanto. Venice, Gallerie dell’ Accademia. Oil on canvas, 169 x 137 cm [photo: Alinari] Figure 56 Jl vero ordine delle Armade Christiana et Turchescha. 1571. Engraving [| photo: Newberry Library, Chicago | Figure 57 Giacomo Franco, Miraculosa Victoria a4 Deo Christianis. Contra. Turcas Tributa. 1571. Engraving [photo: Museo Correr, Venice]

xiv Illustrations

Figure 58 Veronese, Modello for the votive painting for Sebastiano Venier, Collegio. 30 x 40.7 cm. British Library, Prints and Drawings, inv. 1861-8-10-4. |[photo: Copyright of the British Museum | Figure 59 Veronese, Allegory of the Batile of Lepanto (Votive painting for

Sebastiano Venier ). Oil on canvas, 285 x 565 cm, Sala del Collegio, Palazzo Ducale |photo: Museo Correr, Venice | Figure 60 I Capitani G[e/n[erJali dell’aramata Venetttiana, Giacomo Franco, Habiti degli huomeni et donne venetiane (Venice, 1610).

Engraving, folio [photo: Museo Correr, Venice | Figure 61 Andrea Vicentino, Disembarkation of the Dogaressa Morosina Morosint Grimani from the Bucintoro and Her Progress toward the

Triumphal Arch, c.1597. Venice, Museo Correr. Oil on canvas | photo: Museo Correr, Venice | Figure 62 Detail, Andrea Vicentino, Disembarkation of the Dogaressa Morosina Morosint Grimani from the Bucintoro and Her Progress toward

the Triumphal Arch, c.1597, Venice, Museo Correr. Oil on canvas | photo: Museo Correr] Figure 63 M. Preys, ll grande apparato ... (after Andrea Vicentino, Henry LIT of France Disembarks at the Lido and Progresses toward the Arch

Designed by Palladio). Engraving with some watercolour, 345 x

455 mm [photo: Museo Correr, Venice] Figure 64 Il nobilissimo e superbo apparto fatto nel lido di Venetia ... (Arrival of Henry IH at the Lido), G.D.M. inv. Printed by Francesco

Bertelli in Padua, 1574. Engraving, 345 x 600 mm [photo: Museo Correr, Venice | Figure 65 Giacomo Franco, ll nobilissimo teatro deto il mondo ... Venice, 1597. Engraving and etching, 402 x 518 mm [photo: Museo Correr, Venice | Figure 66 Giacomo Franco, Venetia, Venice, 1597. Engraving, first version, 402 x 522 mm [photo: Museo Correr, Venice | Figure 67 Giacomo Franco, Venetia, Venice, 1597. Engraving, third version, 402 x 522 mm [photo: Museo Correr] Figure 68 Cesare Vecellio, Generale di Venetia, De gli habite antichi, et moderni di diverse parte del mondo libri due (Venice: Damian

Zenaro, 1590). Woodcut, 8°, 20 cm [photo: Museo Correr, Venice |

Figure 69 G.M. Mitelli [itinerant printseller of war maps and prints], Bologna, 1688. Engraving, 272 x 198 mm [photo: copyright British Museum, London |

Illustrations xv Figure 70 Francesco Vallegio, Map of Venice with the Doges. Engraving,

etching, and letterpress, 565 x 955 mm, issued 1623-4 | photo: copyright British Museum, London | Figure 71 Fulgenzio Manfredi, Venetia, detail from a folio volante (Venice: Battista Mazza and Gasparo Uccelli, 1598). Engraving, etching, 379 x 735 mm [photo: by permission of the British Library, London | Figure 72 Camillo Orsino da Lamentana, Francesco Sansovino, L’historia di casa Orsina (Venice: B. & F. Stagnini fratelli, 1565). Engraving, folio |[photo: by permission of the British Library,

London| C.80.c.9 Figure 73. Giacomo Franco, Marino Grimani Doge di Venetia, Effiggie naturali det maggior prencipr et pru valorosi capitani (Venice, 1596).

Engraving, 4° [photo: Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana, Venice | Figure 74 Giacomo Franco, In questa habito si vede il Ser.mo Doge di Venetia ..., Habite deglh huomeni et donne venetiane

(Venice:1610). Engraving, folio [photo: by permission of the British Library, London]. C.48h.11 £.5 Figure 75 Clemente VIIT. Fiorentino, Effigie de sommi Pontefici dalla sedia d'Avignone ritornati a Roma fino a questi tempi (Vicenza|? |:

Pietro Bertelli, 1611). Engraving, folio [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] C.80.f.4 Figure 76 I nomi et cognomi titoli et patrie di tutti li somi pontefict. List of popes, Effigie de sommi Pontefici dalla sedia d'‘Avignone ntornati a Roma fino a questi tempi (Vicenzal[?]|: Pietro Bertelli, 1611).

Engraving, folio |photo: by permission of the British Library, London | c.80.f.4 Figure 77 Tobias Stimmer, Politianus, Theobald Miller, Musaei Joviani imagines artifice manu ad vivum expressae (Basel: Petri Pernae,

1577). Woodcut, 4° [photo: by permission of the British Library, London | Figure 78 Giovanni Battista della Porta, De Naso, De humana physiognomonia libn IIH (Naples: Tarquinium Longum, 1603). | photo: Osler Library Montreal | Figure 79 Giovanni Battista della Porta, Caput mediocre, De humana physiognomonia libri IIH (Vici Aequensis, losephum Cacchium, 1586). |[photo: Osler Library Montreal] Figure 80 Effigie, ©& habito di quet Indiani arrivati a Roma li 23. Marzo 1585, Avisi venuti novamente da Roma delli XXII di Marzo

xvi_ Illustrations

(Bologna: Alessandro Benacci 1585) 20 x 14 cm [photo: Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana, Venice | Figure 81 Cesare Vecellio, Giapponese, Habiti antichi et moderni di tutto ul mondo (Venice, Sessa 1598). Woodcut, 8°, 20 cm [photo: Correr | Figure 82 Capitolo a Selin imperator de Turchi: Delle feste et allegresse ch’e1 faceva in Costantinopoli ... della presa delisola di Cipro (Ven-

ice[?] 1580[?]). Woodcut, 12° [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] 1071.g.7. (81) Figure 83. [ / et ultema desperatione de Selim Gran Turco per la perdita della

sua armata (Venice: 1575?) [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] 1071.g.7.(85) Figure 84 Giacomo Franco, Sultan Maumet II, Effiggie natural dei maggior prencipt et piu valorost capitani. Venice, 1595. Engraving,

12° [photo: Museo Correr, Venice] Figure 85 Meemet/Maumet.ll, Pietro Bertelli, Vite deglimperatort de’turchi con le loro effiggie (Vicenza: G. Greco, 1599). Engraving, 4°

| photo: by permission of the British Library, London | 583.19 Figure 86 Appendix (Mehmet IID , Prosapia vel genealogia imperatorum turcicorum, (Straubing, 1597). Woodcut, 8° [photo: by permission

of the British Library, London] 555.a.17 Figure 87 Mahometto IT, Pietro Bertelli, Vite degl’imperatori de’turchi con le loro effiggie (Vicenza: G. Greco, 1599). Engraving, 4° [ photo:

by permission of the British Library, London] 583.1.9 Figure 88 Selim f, Pietro Bertelli, Vite degl imperaton deturchi con le loro effiggie (Vicenza: G. Greco, 1599). Engraving, 4° |[photo: by

permission of the British Library, London] 583.1.9 Figure 89 Giacomo Franco, Sinan Bassa, Effiggie naturali det maggior prencipi et piu valorost capitani (Venice: Giacomo Franco, 1596). Engraving, 4° |[photo: Museo Correr, Venice] Figure 90 Ware Contrafactur Sinan Bassae, Prosapia vel genealogia imperatorum turcicorum (Straubing, 1597). Woodcut, 8° [photo: by

permission of the British Library, London] 555.a.17 Figure 91 School of Veronese, Bazazeth IH. 1580s. Oil on canvas. Alte

Pinakotek, Munich | photo: Alte Pinakotek, Munich] Figure 92 Tobias Stimmer, Bazazeth. I[, Theobald Muller, Musaei Loviani imagines artifice manu ad vivum expressae (Basel: Petri Pernae,

1577). Woodcut, 4° [photo: Thomas Fisher Rare Book Library, University of Toronto]

Illustrations xvii

Figure 93. Giovanni Battista Della Porta, Magna Frons, De humana physiognomonia libri IIL (Vici Aequensis, losephum

Cacchium, 1586). [photo: Osler Library, Montreal] Figure 94 ‘Tobias Sttmmer, Horvicivs Pirata, Theobald Muller, Musaei Joviani imagines artifice manu ad vivum expressae (Basel: Petri Pernac, 1577). Woodcut, 4° [photo: by permission of the British Library, London | Figure 95 Anonymous, Two Corsairs |photo: Art Institute of Chicago] Figure 96 Giacomo Franco, Gio. Battista del Monte Cap. Gnae della fant. della ser sig. 11 Venetia (Giovanni Battista Borbone del Monte Maria, Captain General of the Venetian infantry). Lffiggie naturalt det maggior prencipr et piu valorosi capitant

(Venice: Giacomo Franco, 1596). Engraving, 4° [| photo: Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana, Venice | Figure 97 Giacomo Franco, Carolo de Lorena Duca d’Umena, Giacomo Franco, Effiggie natural det maggior prencipi et pru valorosi

capitant (Venice: Giacomo Franco, 1596). Engraving, 4° | photo: Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana, Venice |

Figure 98 Nicolo Nelli, Turkish Pride, 1572 |photo: Biblioteca Communale, Mantua | Figure 99 Signatures from the album amicorum of P. Behaim from Nuremberg [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] Egerton 1192 Figure 100 Ottavio Leoni, Self-Portrait. Etching, Kupferstichkabinett. Staatliche Museen zu Berlin [photo: Bildarchiv PreuBischer Kulturbesitz |

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THE WORLD IN VENICE

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Introduction

For as geography is the natural eye and true light of history: all accounts would forever remain obscure if we did not first become familiar with the places, the attitudes of the people, and the quality of the country of which we believe we are speaking.’

Lancelot du Voisin

With the advent of printed maps at the end of the fifteenth century, the world and the viewer’s place within it could be seen in ways never imagined before. The novelty of this experience overlapped with the discovery of worlds unknown to Europeans, which precipitated a vast array of projects by authors and illustrators; this generated widespread interest in geography. Atlases, travel chronicles, cities, islands, clothing, bodily

style, language, and even alphabets were ordered by geography and widely distributed in printed books.* Collected into one ‘manual’ as Mercator had described the atlas to Ortelius, these books condensed the world, making it legible and compact. Printed images of the geogra-

phy and inhabitants of Europe, and those of distant lands, initiated a sudden and pervasive experience with alterity that redefined the relation of Europeans to their place in the world and forcefully shaped their perceptions of it. One of the largest cities in Europe, a trading crossroads, and a centre of print production, Venice is emblematic of cultural and social changes

that occurred across the continent during this pivotal century. The Veneto was home to more than 450 printers, publishers, and booksellers

during the sixteenth century, and these producers looked beyond the local market to an international one.’ Printmakers capitalized on the

4 The World in Venice

fascination Venice held for foreigners by producing woodcuts and engravings of the city’s topography, costumes, events, and people. Compiled into books, framed with legends, and identified by captions, these new forms of print enabled viewers to compare their place in the world with those of others. This book explores how an expanding image of the

world came to be projected in prints, and how these profoundly new visual experiences transformed the ways in which identities accrued to individuals.

Venetians were enthusiastic producers of civic imagery in what became a project of self-promotion and redefinition. At the end of the fifteenth century, Venice was the capital of a vast empire, a mercantile centre, and a departure point for travellers to the East. The city’s economy and interests were linked to broad global considerations. By the seventeenth century, however, its dominant trading position was usurped as the centre of European economic gravity shifted toward markets outside of the Mediterranean. Despite waning power on the international political stage — indeed, in response to it — an array of printed representations emerged to refurbish the city’s fading prominence by projecting an image of Venice in which the extraordinary could be seen everyday. The city was re-envisioned — from the outside in — as a centre in which all the world could be seen.

As a result, the forces compelling Venetians to identify with the city began to change. In contrast to the image of civic consensus that was orchestrated by the institutions of the late medieval state, and sustained

by the repetition of symbolic narratives in rituals and artworks for a local audience, identities in early modern Venice were increasingly shaped through exchanges with outsiders, exchanges that were multiplied through the medium of print. ‘Without any doubt,’ exclaims the Venetian to the foreigner in Francesco Sansovino’s guidebook Delle cose notabili che sono in Venetia, Venice ‘can be called the theatre of the world, and the eye of Italy.’* The city as a theatre was an early modern topos, but one that resonated with

widespread perceptions of Venice as a stage teeming with foreigners. Published in 1561, Sansovino’s text takes the form of a dialogue in which a Venetian guides a visitor through the city informing him of its rituals and customs.” It is the presence of foreigners, in fact, that makes Venice a ‘singular city,’ as Sansovino would write later, “because being useful for those nearby nations, as from afar, all people from the most distant parts of the earth come together here (where they see people of different and discordant faces, costumes, and languages, but all agree,

Introduction 5 however, to praise the city while admiring it) to deal and trade.’® On a political level, the theatre topos was brought forward as a defence of republican political life by Paolo Paruta, the official historian of Venice after 1579, in his dialogue Della perfettione della vita politica, published in

1573. Paruta’s interlocutor, Michele Surian, the spokesperson for the values of Venezianita (being Venetian/Venetian-ness), defends the crowd who participates in civic life: ‘Man is placed in this world as in a theatre in which God sits as spectator of his actions.”

Venice was also ‘the eye of Italy,’ another analogy prompted by its appearance in geographical maps; seen from above, the coastline of Italy resembles a human profile, and the insular landscape of Venice its oculus. This was extended into a political metaphor, as Peter Heylyn explained early in the seventeenth century: ‘Europe is the head of the world, /taly the face of Europe, and Venice the eye of /taly: it is the fairest,

strongest, and most active part of that powerfull body.’® Heylyn conflates the city’s singular topography with the well-known construct of the

body politic, in which the eyes, the most rational part of the body, are the nobles who govern the more unruly members, which indicates that foreigners had come to understand the physical appearance of Venice as both a reflection and a condition of its good government.” This myth of Venice as a model republic is a familiar story, and Sansovino’s guidebooks, particularly his famous Venetia citta nobilissima et singo-

lave (1581), were instrumental in its dissemination.!° A polymath and prolific author, Sansovino was himself a foreigner who came to Venice from Rome, and his early guidebooks betray the misinterpretations that accompanied his own subjective reflections.'’ However, his detailed explanations of Venetian symbolism in Venetia citta nobilissima reveal his

insider knowledge, his own Venezianita. In contrast to his earlier criticism of elaborate visual display by religious institutions, the 1581 publication conveys his investment in the political reality of the sixteenth-

century myth.'* Instructing his readers in the party line rather than probing political analysis, he represents civic concordance and liberty as effects of the city’s ‘lofty government.’’’ To this end he describes the admiration of foreigners for Venetian costumes and ceremonies, its officials and Jetterati, its buildings and artworks, but he also explains how

modesty and sumptuary laws sustained this culture by subordinating individual desires in the interests of civic harmony. The role of the individual within Venetian collectivity figures prominently in printed imagery discussed in this book. But I also hope to convey how internal differences and conflicts were concealed through these

6 The World in Venice

representations of collective identity and also how new uses and forms of print opened up new possibilities for identification. Produced in multiples, widely disseminated, and portable, the new media of woodcuts and engravings prompted visual strategies and uses of images that came to mediate between the state and the community, public and private, and the collective and individual. Furthermore, print opened up possibilities for exchanges between the city and the world; local images were themselves often responses to how Venice and Venetians were imagined by foreigners. Exchanges between Venetians and foreigners in the city overlapped with, and were intensified by, the circulation of new forms of print, and Sansovino’s formulation of difference — expressed through costumes, faces, and language — can itself be understood as both a cause and effect

of the kinds of civic imagery discussed in this book. Arguably, the erowth of travel literature was less a reflection of the fascination with exploration than a result of the intense awareness and construction of cultural differences that emerged in relation to this expanding global geography.

There is an aspect of the ‘outside’ that is more distinctive than the rest: the relation between Venice and the Ottoman Empire. Indeed, the diversity of publications concerned with the Turk — the nomenclature for Muslim more than a specific ethnic identity — including Sansovino’s own publications, attest to the crucial role notions of the Turk played in

the formation of Venetian identity. The erosion of their maritime state following the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453 contributed to Venice’s turn toward the West, but relations with the East were contin-

ually reinvented, not abandoned. Sometimes adversarial, but more often ambivalent, encounters with Turks — in the streets and through representations — reveal the complex ways in which identities were becoming formulated. If Sansovino’s 1581 publication was the summa of Venetian guide-

books, Bernardo Salvioni and Donato Rascicotti’s 1597 engraving offered viewers an epitome in pictorial form (fig. 1).'* The bird’s-eye view of the cityscape is accompanied with details of Rialto Bridge and Piazza San Marco (the city’s economic and political centres), a legend, a dedication, and two parades of costumed figures. The multiple registers brought together in Rascicotti’s print serve as both the departure point and the result of changes traced in this study. For what contributed to this new configuration of the city in parts? On one side these representations point to the conjoining of physical, social, and mental spaces; as

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Figure 1 Venelia. Engraved by Bernardo Salvioni. Printed by Donato Rascicotti in Venice, 1597. Engraving, 382 x 507 mm | photo: Museo Correr, Venice |

8 The World in Venice

Henri Lefebvre explains, ‘the concepts or theories they imply — energy,

Space, time — can be neither conflated nor separated from one another.’!? For Lefebvre, and as suggested by the linked pictorial registers in Rascicotti’s engraving, space is something in motion; it is produced by, and consists of, modes of representation and social practices.

Moreover, each register in the print engages the viewer in different ways. [The combination of vantage points encourages the viewer to move

between the legend and the map, between the architectural details and the cityscape, and between male and female processions. Finally, Rascicotti’s engraving, with its highlights of Venetian life, targeted a foreign audience, to which copies by Roman and Sienese printmakers attest, underscoring once again the dialogue prints initiated between outsiders and insiders. ’°

In ways never experienced before, local identities came to be managed by the repeated circulation of images in print. Early modern viewers would have learned to negotiate their experiences through the very systems of ordering and conventions developed to represent the city and its inhabitants. This gradual process, the book posits, contributed to a growing split between sensate experiences of the world and visual, sometimes vicarious, ones. Potentially ‘all one would have to do,’ to use Louis Marin’s apt words, ‘is carefully examine representations in order to examine the world, to construct them in order to articulate being.’ Perspective and the Subject

With its multiple points of view, the engraving also brings forward another theme of the book: the relation between the evolving concepts

of place, space, vision, and identity. Perspective contributed to how these concepts changed, and here I introduce some aspects of this history in order to provide some context for the chapters that follow. Medieval theories of space were based on metaphysics, physics, and theology.'® The cosmos was understood as ‘an ongoing event with man

at its center,’ a concept that bound space and time together.’ During the Middle Ages space was identified with matter following Plato’s Timaeus.”° However, in the twelfth century this notion of space as something both material and empty was succeeded by Aristotle’s identifica-

tion of space with place, and his influential ‘theory of positions in space.”*!

Since the first century, the word ‘place’ not only was a metaphor for

God but also denoted God,” and this idea is expressed in Nicolas of

Introduction 9 Cusa’s concept of God’s gaze. For Cusa, a bishop writing in the middle of the fifteenth century, God’s ‘omnivoyant’ vision, which sees ‘roundabout and above and below,’ has no fixed centre and thus could not be perceived.*’ Cusa explains this all-seeing gaze in the treatise he calls The Image, or The Picture, sent to a group of monks along with a painting of

the face of Christ, ‘the icon of God.’** In the preface he instructs his brothers to ‘set it up somewhere, for example on the north wall,’ and look at it together from different vantage points; ‘from what ever side you may examine it (¢nspicere) each of you will have the experience (experirt) of being as it were the only one to be seen by it.’ As evidence that the gaze ‘turns it sight,’ he recommends that one brother walk ‘east to west,’ and the other from ‘west to east.’ I cite this text at length since I return to Cusa later in the book. Owing to the revelation made by the witness (revelaizo relatoris), he succeeds

in realizing that the face abandons none of the walkers, even when their movements are contrary. He thus experiences the fact that this immovable face (zmmobilis facies) moves at the same time towards the east and towards the west, towards the north and towards the south; that it is directed simul-

taneously toward one place and towards all; and that its gaze follows an individual movement as well as all the movements at once. If he observes (allendere) that the gaze leaves none of the persons present, he will see (videre) that this gaze is concerned with each one with as much care as if he

were the only one to have the experience of being followed, to the extent that the one who is being looked at cannot conceive that another might be the object of the same attention.

Thus the need of the second brother in the experiment, the witness who can confirm by voice that he too is seen by the gaze. Cusa’s treatise and the painting were connected to his interest in demonstrating that ‘theo-

logical matters are better seen with the mind’s eye than they can be expressed in words.’~” Moreover, ‘seeing’ could be advanced, even made true, by geometry: as Michel de Certeau has observed, the diagram with its coordinates — the monks walking east and west — resembles a map of

the gaze.*° God’s field of vision is momentarily fixed as a point — the eyes in the painting on the north wall — as if the distant point of a perspectival construction.”’ Although still expressive of a cosmological view

of the world in which man appeared to be at the centre of space which surrounded him on all sides, Cusa’s efforts to illustrate God’s gaze gesture toward a new abstract configuration of space in which the positions

10 The World in Venice

of individual bodies are defined in relation to each other.** For each of Cusa’s walkers is constituted by the presence of the other, and those identities are ratified by the gaze.

Cusa’s idea can be understood in relation to developments in fifteenth-century painting. Since early in the century, the use of artificial perspective had provided artists with the means to organize relations between figures on a flat surface in accordance with an Aristotelian concept of space. The illusion of space was not yet a modern one, since the space inside the representation was not conceived of as continuous, isotropic, and homogeneous. As James Elkins observes, ‘the phrase “perspective space” is a Janus

figure, for it conjoins a modern Cartesian theory of space as a priori and infinite, with the Renaissance practice of perspective, which was ‘object oriented’ instead.*” Efforts to prove perspective through mathematics and geometry — to demonstrate, for example, that an elevation of an object is proportionally related to its dimensions in a perspective diagram — led to the representation of objects as diagrams. Already in Piero della Francesca’s treatise, as Elkins explains, there is evidence of a shift away from the optical considerations of a viewer’s ‘eyes’ and the ‘rays’ of sight, toward ‘points’ and ‘lines.”*” A century later, with the publication of Federico Commandino’s treatise in 1558, the beginnings of a modern concept of isometric space emerged as measurable and abstracted from bodily experience.”! New techniques of surveying and geometry led to the ichnographic, or orthographic plan; instead of quantifying distances on the basis of the time taken to perceive them, distances could be measured zn the representation.’- The second chapter of Daniele Barbaro’s 1568 treatise Pratica della perspettiva (1568) is devoted to the science of ichnographia in which he conceptualizes three-dimensional objects being ““raised” from

their plans.’’’ Contributing to this new theory was a consideration of light and space in terms of accidents or properties. Hence the earlier understanding of place as surfaces, and space as the gaps between those surfaces, was replaced by a new understanding of space as something con-

structed from substances.** Space became redefined as homogeneous and a priori to the bodies situated within it, and bodies, as the other side of this equation, came to be understood as moving within space.°” An engraving of Piazza San Marco, La meravigliosa Piazza de San Marco di Venetia, printed in 1599 by Donato Rascicotti, and accompanied with a

text by the architect Vincenzo Scamozzi dated 1599, illustrates this change (fig. 2).°° Small figures move about the piazza in local and for-

Introduction Il

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eign costumes, a common sight, explains the text, because the piazza is regularly filled with people. Instead of depicting a procession — the paradigmatic view of the piazza in Venetian painting’ — the text provides the visitor with a list of processions that can be seen there. In the foreeround, Venetia, the personification of the city as a woman, is flanked by Minerva and Mercury, who embraces a globe. Their attributes attest to

12. The World in Venice

the image of the city as a space of culture, peace, and wisdom; no mere trading crossroads, the new maternal Venice engenders heroic action, as the verse on her dais proclaims: You value me, virtue surrounds me Just and strong on land and in sea I reign, A fecund Mother of arms, arts, heroes.°*®

The print was also intended to promote Scamozzi's perspectival project for the Procuratie Nove, the new residences seen on the right for the nine Procurators, who like the doge were elected for life.”” Although

begun in 1581, debates about the visual impact of the project interrupted its completion; at the end of 1597, a year before the engraving was made, construction recommenced during the reign of Doge Marin Grimani, as Scamozzi notes in the text. The Procuratie were among those projects given new impetus by Doge Nicolo da Ponte (1578-85) that included completion of the library, the new prisons to the east of the Palazzo Ducale, Rialto bridge, Fondamenta Nuove, and improvements to the arsenal. Significantly, these spaces and institutions found throughout the city were being associated with each other, and the rhetorical effects of these designs became the focus of intense debates concerning the city’s image. Scamozzi’s design for the Procuratie, with its triumphal perspectival Roman architecture, was at the centre of these arguments, and the engraving demonstrates what was at stake.*” For in Scamozzi's new modern conception of the Piazza, the iconic status of the buildings — the function of San Marco, for example, as a living symbol of the republic — has been subordinated to the visual effect of the

whole. The facade of the church has been brought into line with the three-storey articulation of the structures that flank it. Moreover, below the allegorical tableau, a text includes a legend that is keyed to the city’s

architectural monuments. Reconceptualized as a container of space, Piazza San Marco is an independent entity whose history, orientation, and dimensions are described in the text and whose dimensions can be gauged in Venetian feet with the use of the scale line seen on the bottom left of the image. The reconfiguration of the Piazza in the print was a response to a century of representational changes in which perspective, print, and architectural developments worked together to redefine how the city was perceived. Perspective was also used as a metaphor for sight, an idea strength-

ened with the integration of medieval theories of optics and Renaissance artificial perspective in the sixteenth century.” In his remarkably

Introduction 13

popular catalogue of occupations, first published in Venice in 1585, Tomasso Garzoni defines optics — which he aligns with geometry — as the

relation between perception and the visual field. Practitioners of the science of perspective — concerned with the straight and oblique lines of sight — translated viewers’ perceptions of the world into images. In ‘the act of seeing,’ as philosophers explain it, objects are transformed from the invisible to the visible by the ‘straight lines’ that are emitted from, and return to, the centre of the eye. Vision is imagined as ‘a powerful perspective ... [that] apprehends visible objects for its singular propri-

ety. The eye has become the locus of understanding and subjective judgment, and thus sight is ‘the most certain of all senses.’** I use Garzoni’s synopsis of what were complicated epistemological questions to highlight the ways in which vision, perspective, and the observer’s identity were becoming correlated. And as prints came to mediate between ‘visible objects’ and the viewer, it was the representation that became a part of the observer’s identity — that sense, as Garzoni suggests, of owning what one sees.*” Paolo Paruta’s dialogue Della perfettione della vita politica, to which I

referred above, addresses a more elite group of readers than Garzoni, but here, too, vision and images mediate between the material world of the body and understanding: Although our intellect may be divine from its birth ... nevertheless here below, it lives among these earthly members and cannot perform its operations without the help of bodily sensations. By their means, drawing into the mind the images of material things, it represents these things to itself and in this way forms its concepts of them. By the same token it customarily

rises to spiritual contemplations not by itself but awakened by sensible

objects. In the sixteenth century, this haptic experience of the city was becoming complicated by a world translated, to use Walter Ong’s words, into ‘a vast surface or assemblage of surfaces.’*” For Ong, this process is analogous with the emergence of writing and the subordination of oral culture that he aligns with the development of modern subjectivity. In this book, it is the combination of new representational technologies, information about the world, and social exchanges that are seen to contribute to early modern identity. Recent scholarship has pursued these lines of inquiry, drawing attention to uses of cartography and representations of space in early modern Europe, and to concomitant changes to the status of the subject.*°

14 The World in Venice

As John Hale has argued, making space legible through maps enabled ‘Europeans to imagine, believably, the geographical space in which they lived,’ an idea ‘Tom Conley and Richard Helgerson have pursued in different ways for France and England respectively.*’ ‘Not only does the

emergence of the land parallel the emergence of the individual authorial self,’ writes Helgerson, ‘the one enforces and perhaps depends on the other. *“ By representing the world and its place within it, according to Conley’s formulation, the modern subject emerged in response to a

split between ‘an illusion of a geographic truth,’ and its birthplace, mark, or signature inscribed within the representation.*” While these authors consider visual imagery, their emphasis is on language — what

Conley refers to as ‘cartographic writing’: the emergence of the self through the spatialization of language. This book also explores intersections between geography and subjectivity, but my objects of analysis and emphasis on visual culture naturally raise different questions. First, as I argue, ideas that circulated in lan-

guage reflected and constituted social exchanges in crucial ways, but visual imagery operates on a different register that implicates the body more insistently than texts. Both images and texts overlapped with the phenomenal experience of moving through the city, and with each other, but pictures draw on perceptual mechanisms that conjoin vision and identity through that ‘belong to me’ experience of visual experience. Second, instead of national identity, the printed imagery considered here focuses on the city or the region as the locus of cultural distinctiveness. Although to some extent this reflects the Italian context, this was a broader European interest connected to concerns with birthplace and citizenship. Moreover, the very process of forging civic catego-

ries of identity and reframing the individual in relation to the world outside seems to have facilitated identifications with national boundaries that are more clearly drawn in the early seventeenth century. In short, print enabled people to put the name with the city, the costume, the face. National distinctiveness was thereby a result, in part, of the systematic ordering of space, vision, bodies, and history seen in the series

of prints examined throughout this book. The authorial ‘self’ who emerges as an effect of his or her production also figures in this study. The focus of the book, however, is on the didactic impact of visual conventions, on the effects of prints, and on the ways in which the medium was itself implicated in the etiology of the self. Any study concerned with the historicity of the ‘subject’ reflects upon Jacob Burckhardt’s 1860 thesis about the Renaissance ‘discovery of the

Introduction 15 individual,’ which remains a focus of scholarly debates.” Burckhardt’s description of the veil of ‘faith, illusion and childish prepossession’ of medieval consciousness ‘which melted into air’ during the Renaissance, has been justly criticized.?! Richard Trexler, Natalie Zemon Davis, and Stephen Greenblatt, among others, have rejected Burckhardt’s autonomous individual in favour of a concept of identity formation as a process of exchange with others.” If, on one side, there was a new social mobility, So too were there new ‘control mechanisms,’ according to Greenblatt’s influential concept of Renaissance self-fashioning.”’ In contrast to Burckhardt’s autonomous individual, self-fashioning was a dialectical concept in which selves were formed in relation to others and through external representations and language. For Alasdair Macintyre, the new figure of ‘the individual’ was introduced into moral theory in the texts of Machiavelli and Luther, which signalled a break with hierarchical authority. Luther transformed the

community from ‘the area in which the moral life is lived out’ into ‘merely the setting of an eternal drama of salvation.’°* With moral authority severed from the church and transferred to the ‘autonomy of the economic,’ the subject became an individual in relation to God and subordinated to the secular world. The emergence of the individual was thereby tied to the separation of society from the state to which he or she became subjected. No easy process, this separation from a network of hierarchical social relations would have required a new set of terms with which to define oneself in relation to others. No longer constituted only by a familial and communal network, the identity of this modern subject would have been defined by the facts of a social vocabulary that

was no longer prescriptive. Profession, name, and status no longer determined an individual’s actions; instead, he or she had to choose, for when ‘all desires are corrupt ... choice remains open.’””

If Luther transformed the theological context, Machiavelli was the author of the secular order, the first theorist of realpolitik. In view of people acting on behalf of their interests, moral rules had no validity except

as ‘means to the ends of power’; unconstrained by any social bonds, explains Macintyre, society was ‘a potential raw material, to be reshaped for the individual’s own ends.’’° For Machiavelli ethics and politics were

intertwined; the emergence of the individual and state were bound together by the effect of people on the institutions of the state and the extent to which the growth of the state pressed on individuals.

External impingements are also central to Stephen Greenblatt’s notion of Renaissance subjectivity. However, instead of these social pres-

16 The World in Venice

sures forging an individual, with a body and ego of its own, he calls attention to ways in which sixteenth-century people moved between identities. Greenblatt cites the lack of concern among writers ‘for the integrity or propriety of the first-person pronoun, noting that medieval authors could easily ‘assume the “I” of another.’°’ The emergence of the ‘TP in texts reflected the use of the pronoun as a persona or mask. Fol-

lowing Thomas Hobbes’s description of a ‘person,’ Greenblatt maintains that sixteenth-century selves were defined by the ownership of their words and actions and not their individual bodies. Discussing the well-known trial of Arnaud de Tihl, the ingenious imposter of Martin Guerre, Greenblatt explains that the latter was represented as a product ‘of ... relations, material objects, and judgments,’ rather than as a producer of them.” Instead of a subject or agent of his actions, the accused was defined as an object: by his visual characteristics and contours, his ‘scars, features, clothing, shoe size.” For Greenblatt the case points to ‘a disconcerting recognition: that our identity may not originate in (or be guaranteed by) the fixity, the certainty, of our own body.’®” Yet the crux of the case was the return of Martin Guerre to his village in the Pyrenees after twelve years of absence. For it was the face and body of the ‘real’ Martin Guerre that provided the unmistakable evidence; it was the two men, standing side by side, that enabled his uncle and sisters to recognize the differences between them. It was the gap between the performance of identity — the claims to ownership of words and actions achieved with remarkable success by Arnaud — and the body’s unshakable corporeality, when confronted with another, that resulted in the failure of the imposter.”’ It is this unusual experience — comparing bodies and faces — that sixteenth-century printed visual imagery made habit-

ual, thereby drawing attention to differences between individuals in profoundly new ways.

More recently, John Martin has asked if Burckhardt’s thesis should be discarded in its entirety. For Martin, the increasing importance of sincerity at the end of the Renaissance was expressive of the subject’s new sense of its interior self.°* By the beginning of the seventeenth century, moreover, there was a distinction made between a subject’s sense of its

interior and exterior, between the ‘heart’ and the body’s external appearance. These are conclusions supported by the present study, for printed imagery called attention to the contours of one’s costume, the representational weight of the body, and the distinctiveness of one’s own face. However if late sixteenth-century Venetians began to see themselves as others saw them, this impression of interiority was, in part,

Introduction 17 paradoxically, the result of finding one’s identity in images. The incipient mirage of the ‘individuated self,’ moreover, was coextensive with coming into conformity; it was constituted from the outside in, by the repetition of similar images in prints, by the construction of categories of identity, by exchanges with others, and through an increase in the use of mirrors. More than ever before, there could be no isolated body, as subjectivity was increasingly constituted by the same images that bound individual bodies to the social.”

The Chapters Chapter I traces the evolving image of Venice in printed maps. Beginning with Jacopo de’Barbari’s 1500 woodcut, the chapter progresses to the early seventeenth century, and Giacomo Franco’s miniature view on the frontispiece of his series of engravings of Venetian costumes and ceremonies. In contrast to de’ Barbari’s utopian image of the city as the centre of the world, Franco’s transforms Venice into the world. Central here is the reciprocity between the stunning cityscape and its institutions and how printed images of the city came to mediate between the viewer’s experiences of both. Maps altered the ways in which the city was perceived, and these changes reflect the broad historical turn away from

mimesis toward abstraction as printmakers developed new pictorial strategies to reproduce the republic’s social and physical organization on paper. These changes required that viewers learn to move between the legends, perspective views, processions, histories, and portraits that began to surround the image of the city. Throughout the century, the maps demonstrate the persistent efforts of printmakers to negotiate between the atemporal and abstract view of the city’s topography seen from a bird’s-eye view and the contingent experiences of the person in the street. Increasingly print translated sensate experiences of Venice into shared visual ones, and consequently these two once-overlapping understandings of the city were disengaged into representations of mental and physical experiences of space.

Costume books, the focus of chapter 2, were another response to interest in geography and travel literature, and printmakers in the Veneto were particularly enthusiastic, publishing about one-third of those books seen in Europe between 1540 and 1610. Following discover-

ies of lands unknown to Europeans, and in striking contrast with the regional variations seen in flora or fauna, the contours of the human body, unexpectedly, and perhaps surprisingly, appeared to be universal.

18 The World in Venice Thus it was dress — what was worn over the skin — that served as the locus

of alterity, and printed costume books became a means to order an expanding image of the world. As I argue, sources and conventions used by illustrators to classify people would have prompted viewers to com-

pare the silhouettes of their own costumes with those of the depicted foreigners.

In contrast to the vicarious travel offered by printed costume books, friendship albums accompanied students and merchants visiting Italy from north of the Alps. Signatures of friends and colleagues were collected alongside hand-painted coats of arms and imagery including costumes. The migration of Venetian types into what were essentially moral guidebooks brings to the fore those concepts that were important to foreigners about Venetians. The chapter also addresses the social function of dress as signs of faith

and status. Judicial proceedings illustrate how the state attempted to ensure that identities were clearly defined and also how those definitions could be undermined. Finally, I suggest that official concern with attire, together with printed costume imagery, may have called attention to the materiality of viewers’ own clothes and to the representational weight of their bodies. Drawing on the visual conventions used in the prints, and the new forms of identification they may have elicited, I propose that these mechanisms may have contributed to the sense of one’s own distinctiveness.

Identity and costume are also themes in chapter 3, but here the focus turns to some of the ways in which printed imagery overlapped with specific historical events. The first example is the confrontation with the Ottoman fleet at Cyprus and the ensuing battle of Lepanto in 1571. For

Venetians, whose maritime power had been eroded by the Ottoman Empire since 1453, the confrontation threatened the very foundations of Venetian republican identity: noble status and masculine virtue. Of particular interest here are printed maps of the battle and how these may have intersected with other forms of visual imagery to reassert values of patrician rule over collective action. In 1597, during the coronation of Dogaressa Morosina Morosini Grimani, it was patrician women who became a focus of Venetian cosmography. The extraordinary event provides insights into festivities in the late sixteenth century, when the civic function of rituals was becoming subordinated to their function as performances, often staged for the eyes of

outsiders. Increasingly characterized by commentators as displays of splendour and pomp never seen before, processions became choreo-

Introduction 19

graphed events, framed by architectural backdrops and publicized through printed pamphlets and engravings that extended their visual effects. Printed maps are also a focus here in relation to costume and female comportment. Where the integration of the city’s spaces and civic ceremonial in the early part of the century constituted forms of collective republican identity, the surge in printed visual imagery produced for festivities in the last three decades indicates that print became one form of countering the city’s declining prestige on the world stage. In contrast to the contin-

ual ceremonies that characterized Venetian civic life, the battle at Lepanto and dogaressa’s procession were unusual events that precipi tated a new kind of historical reportage in which time is arrested in space.

If a map was like a portrait, so too did a portrait resemble a map. By the end of the sixteenth century, printed maps of Venice were framed with images of the doges, portraits accompanied maps of the world in

the entrances to Venetian homes, and authors explained how the human face could be read like a map for signs of identity. Printed portraits and portrait books, the subject of chapter 4, were transforming the ways in which likenesses were viewed and used. Portrait books, with their

distinctive serial format and combination of image and _ history, prompted viewers to contrast the faces of sitters, and these were cognitive skills also being cultivated by physiognomists. An analysis of this new attention to facial features begins the chapter. If, as I argue in chapter 2, costume was the means to identifiy foreigners, then what about physiognomy? To address this question, I turn first to the Japanese embassy. Until 1585, with the visit of four young ambas-

sadors, the Japanese had never been seen in Europe. Since these youths were converts of the Jesuit mission, travelled in Western clothes, and had

the manners of courtiers, they appeared to be Europeans. Indeed, it seems to be this lack of difference that prompted chroniclers to look more closely at their faces. The struggle to describe their physiognomy, in

the absence of a vocabulary to do so, provides an intriguing example of how Europeans looked at unfamiliar facial features before these had been codified as characteristics of race. The extent to which, and how, ideas about race were developing in Europe in the sixteenth century is a complicated issue.” Terms like race and nation resonated differently from today; they were often used interchangeably. Stereotypes concerning the character and colour of groups on the basis of distance from, or proximity to, the equator had been cir-

20 The World in Venice

culating in language since before Ptolemy. Sixteenth-century Europeans, however, were accustomed to recognizing nuances in costume, habits, and language, rather than facial features as signs of differences. Even in the case of deeply entrenched prejudices concerning the Ottoman Turks, the focus of the third part of the chapter, these stereotypes circulated in language, and it was the costume that identified the type. However, by bringing the history of individuals together with their likenesses, portrait books urged readers to make connections between physiognomy and actions. By instructing viewers to look more closely at faces, portrait books drew attention to the differences between faces. The conventions of portrait books, aided by interest in physiognomy, thereby laid the groundwork for the modern alignment between facial distinctiveness and collective actions that has become characteristic of racism. The last three chapters, then, contribute to a prehistory for racism by showing how printed imagery constructed categories of identity before a repertory of visual characteristics had been assigned to the bodies and faces of some ethnic groups. By the end of the sixteenth century, as facial features became ascribed to specific modes of behaviour, faces came to define personality, and this became a framework for the modern alignment of identity with individuality.

In the Conclusion I consider the signatures of printmakers and inscriptions made by users of printed images and albums. At the end of the book I return to perspective to suggest ways in which some modern

theorists of perspective have been reflecting, in part, on the split between the subject and the image that was materialized through print. Cognitive change is a slow process; nevertheless I hope to show how print participated in the changing status of the early modern Venetian subject. The novelty and the repeated experience of images and conventions instructed sixteenth-century viewers how to identify the text in the legend with the location in the map, to recognize places by the contours of local costumes, and to discern the differences between faces compiled in portrait books. In so doing, print both engendered identifica-

tion with the familiar and revealed what was distinctive about the

individual.

Unlike art historical monographs devoted to a single artist or monument, this book considers a vast array of visual representations produced by dozens of different artists. The study explores monuments in the history of art, personal manuscript albums, inexpensive prints, and also printed series that circulated to an international audience. Print-

Introduction 21 making in the sixteenth century was itself a complicated business con-

sisting of editing, illustrating, engraving, printing, publishing, and selling. Some printers, such as Giacomo Franco (1550-1620), a prominent figure in the book, practised all of these tasks himself.°° Despite the ubiquitous appearance of popular prints in modern histories of Venice, the work of Franco, like that of many artisans, has been overlooked on account, in part, of the failure of these artists to fit into established categories of study, particularly art history and the history of the book. Often balancing the aspirations of artists who sought to elevate themselves above the manual efforts of artisans, and the exigencies of busi-

ness in Venice, printmakers produced single sheets, pamphlets, and books on diverse subjects. The objects of analysis considered in this book were in fact prompted by contemporary practices, for many printmakers produced several of the forms of imagery considered here, and a few, such as Franco and Pietro Bertelli, made all of them: maps, costume books, prints of events, and portrait books. Printed imagery, especially when considered in relation to social life,

challenges conventional art historical approaches. Although archival research has brought forward information on the business of print, facts about who purchased the artifacts or how many sheets were pulled from presses or editions are rare. Writing this book has required new ways of assessing artifacts that cannot easily be accommodated within existing categories, such as those of iconography or style. The format, content, visual vocabularies, and sources used by printmakers were not local phe-

nomena, but pan-European, making patronage, artistic intentions, and sometimes social history less useful modes of analysis. Content and pictorial conventions also crossed historical and geographical boundaries usually associated with stylistic differences. ‘The subject matter itself led many printmakers to suppress their individual style as a means to underpin claims to objectivity. Many often productive approaches can reduce the meanings of radically different visual representations to familiar historical narratives. In the Venetian context in particular, this situation is magnified by the conservative institutions of the republic. Its longevity was attributed to the

maintenance of its traditions and their perpetual reinforcement. In Venetian painting, for example, styles changed throughout the sixteenth century, while the content of artworks was largely prescribed by convention. Considered within the terms of social art history, art production emerges, inevitability, from its historical context as both constituting and reflecting the myth of Venice, its republican ideology, and

22. The World in Venice

the confluence of patriarchal and oligarchic social relations. Given the civic focus of the imagery explored here, these symbolic and historical concerns remain important. My goal, however, is to show how these meanings were conveyed and embedded in diverse forms and conventions of print and to suggest how these representations intersected with each other and with social life. In the past three decades scholars have witnessed a wealth of essays

dealing with the problems of interpreting the past.°° Contemporary sources, even official ones, can themselves be fictions. Chroniclers copy each other’s accounts; local historians rehearse the official line; foreign visitors often repeat hearsay; and printmakers copy each other. This representational character of the sources is central to the history explored

here. Indeed I hope to suggest a broader system of representations in which print participated. In addition to a range of archival and printed sources, of particular interest here is the materiality of the objects themselves: what their format, scale, conventions, novelty, predictability, vocabularies, sources, texts, historicity, and order indicate about their function and how these encouraged new viewing practices. The meanings of prints can be as open-ended as their uses and readers, as the work of Roger Chartier, among others, has shown.®” The printed images and texts studied here circulated widely, but some were also ephemeral. They were sometimes crude but also lavish, produced for a market, for a patron, and often for both. Prints could be shared among readers, posted on walls, seen in private, purchased as souvenirs, and pasted into albums. Print fostered new forms of production, new practices (business and creative), and new audiences (geographical and social). Indeed, at the end of the fifteenth century, print and perspective were developing technologies; but by the end of the sixteenth, the content and formats considered here were ubiquitous, impinging upon the world. Some readers will question the relevance of modern theories for an analysis of the early modern context. However it seems to me that any project that seeks to understand how images caused effects is not only a historical problem but also a theoretical one. And if we are to understand the experiences of Venetians in the past, then it can be useful to find the gaps between the historical evidence and modern theories, and also the uncanny resemblances. I am less convinced than some that we can describe a past that is untarnished by the historical contingencies of present concerns. Of one thing I feel certain: print and new experi ences of the world surely made early modern viewers more like us than they were before.

Chapter 1

From Myth to Metropole: Sixteenth-Century Printed Maps of Venice

In October 1500 the German publisher and trader Anton Kolb went before the Venetian senate to extol the ‘new art of printing’ demonstrated in his immense woodcut that he said would propagate the ‘fame of this most excellent city’ (figs. 3, 4, 9). Seeking an exemption from export duties given the extraordinary expenses invested in the project, Kolb highlighted the difficulties of producing the celebrated view: because it is he who three years ago had [to ensure that] that work, principally [resounding] to the fame of this most excellent city of Venice, was accurately and properly drawn and printed, and because many details from it are copied in other works, and because of the almost unattainable and

incredible skill required to make such an accurate drawing both on account of its size and [the size] of the paper, the like of which was never made before, and also because of the new art of printing a form of such large dimensions and the difficulty of the overall composition, which matters people have not appreciated, not being able to estimate the value, considering the mental subtlety involved, and given that printed copies cannot be produced [economically] to sell for less than about three florins each,

so that he does not in general hope to recoup the moneys invested: he therefore supplicates Your Sublimity that grace may be conceded for the said work to be exported and sold in all your lands and cities without payment of any duties and without any restriction.’

The supplication makes no reference to the designer, Jacopo de ’Barbari, who probably met Kolb in Venice.” Instead, the publisher listed the

technical feats, linking the mode of the representation to how the picture was intended to work; when reassembled, the printed sheets would

24 The World in Venice

produce a vision of the city seen from an imaginary point of view. Covering nearly four square metres, the print was a representational triumph, for both its size and its meticulous topographical detail.’ Kolb intended

to export the woodcuts throughout the dominion, furnishing an image

of the Venetian capital in people’s minds. Despite his appeal, the exemption from tariffs was denied; instead, he was granted exclusive rights of production for four years with permission to export the work

‘to all places, paying the normal duty.’* Given the enormity of the project, the copyright must have been small compensation; the absence of emulators in the next few decades attests to the financial risks of the undertaking.’ Nevertheless, authorization to export the print to a foreign audience indicates the senators approved of the striking image. As this supplication indicates, developments in cartography and the new representational technologies of print and perspective drew attention to how the city was perceived. Woodcuts and engravings — produced in multiples, widely disseminated, and portable — provided the means to circulate new information about the world on paper. In turn, the increasing visibility of the world contributed to the growing awareness of boundaries between regions in early modern Europe. This new visual relation to the world outside focused Europeans on the city as the locus of cultural distinctiveness and on the ways in which identities within its boundaries were defined. A wealth of printed maps — sold as single sheets and incor-

porated into printed books — attests to the enormous popular interest garnered by city views in general and Venice in particular. Located at the crossroads between the east and west, Venice was a des-

tination for foreign merchants and pilgrims lke Canon Pietro Casola, who wrote of his impressions when embarking on a pilgrimage in 1494. For Casola, the city appeared both ‘well ordered and arranged’ but also impossible to perceive as a whole: ‘I cannot give the dimensions of this city, for it appears to me not one city alone but several cities placed together.’”® Casola’s reflections convey the visitor’s conflicting experi-

ences of the cityscape: the numerous islands seen upon entering the lagoon, the panoramic narrative of facades seen from the waterways, the

seemingly incomprehensible network of campi (fields; the Venetian piazza), streets, and bridges experienced by the pedestrian, and the view of the contours of the city seen from the vantage point of any number of campanili (bell towers). These fundamentally different ways of perceiving Venice were brought together in the single remarkably coherent image designed by de’ Barbari. Sixteenth-century maps of Venice, and the de’Barbari view in particu-

Sixteenth-Century Printed Maps of Venice 25

lar, have drawn considerable scholarly attention. The maps have been

catalogued, technical considerations debated, and their accuracy assessed. Cartography and the related pursuit of chorography, the art of exact description associated with city views, were underpinned by claims to objectivity associated with measurement and perspective. The circulation of printed copies and the practice of artists concealing their indi-

vidual style furthered the notion that maps were unmediated reproductions of the local topography. In turn, these practices can often be found to magnify a range of ideological concerns that these same representational practices worked to conceal. Attempts to synthesize cityscapes were not without their strategic emphases and exclusions.

This chapter explores the conventions developed by printmakers within the broader context of changing notions of civic identity and space and time. Of particular interest are the ways in which these visual

strategies organized viewers’ relations to the city and thereby altered their perceptions of it. And this process fuelled the demand for images considered elsewhere in the book. In the de’Barbari woodcut, with which the chapter begins, viewers were projected to a vantage point previously inconceivable. Yet the picture’s mimetic resemblance to Venice also draws the viewer toward the particulars of the topography. The map emblematizes the relation between the collective and the individual during the years in which the republic’s myths were being entrenched by state historians. The following section addresses the turn toward copper engraving for maps; viewers were encouraged to negotiate between the image and the legends, texts, and pictorial devices that surrounded city views. The image of the

city became less detailed and more diagrammatic: an iconic and unchanging centre surrounded by the institutions that sustained it. By the beginning of the seventeenth century, the image of Venice was redefined; no longer a capital of an empire — a model that radiates from the core to the periphery — Venice was transmuted into a metropole, an image of the city in which all the world could be seen. Jacopo de’Barbari’s Bird’s-Eye View I have observed the said city is so well ordered and arranged.’ Pietro Casola

With its date boldly stamped at the top of the print, de’ Barbari’s famous woodcut of Venice declares its own historical importance, as if predict-

26 The World in Venice

ing its archetypal status among printed views of Venice, and even city

views in general (fig. 3).° A monument of printmaking, the design required six pearwood blocks — each measuring 980 x 680 mm — into which the title was carved, like an epitaph, in large Roman letters with elaborate serifs. The blocks, recently restored for a millennium exhibt-

tion, were printed onto extraordinarily large folio sheets that when joined together measure 1.350 metres in height and 2.820 metres in length. Displayed on a wall, and viewed from some distance, the landscape seems to emerge from the water, as if conjured from the sea by the eight wind gods that circle the islands. Like Venus, the islands appear to be

‘floating among the waves of the sea,’ as Marin Sanuto famously described Venice in his De origine, situ et magistratibus urbis Venetae: ‘at the

centre and summit of the sea she rests almost like a queen ... situated above the surging waters.’”” Seen from this cartographic point of view —

almost perpendicular to the city — the topography appears in plan, the city unpopulated, its geographic contours fixed in time, as the inscription states: ‘At Venice 1500.’ Moving toward the surface of the print, the viewpoint shifts toward the

south and the cityscape reveals itself (fig. 4). The topographical details

have been projected from an oblique angle and the landscape to the north now appears in elevation as if seen from a low vantage point in the distance. At close range, it is the spectacular detail of the urban topography that comes into focus, a perspective that encourages viewers to investigate the gardens in the foreground, the facades of the palaces that line the Grand Canal, and the details of the riggings on the galleys that fill the

basin of San Marco. Tiny figures of oarsmen emerge to animate the lagoon, adding to the striking contrast with the god’s-eye view of the geographical contours. The centre islands fill the sea as if inflated by the eight wind gods that circumnavigate the scene. The rays of wind direct viewers to the official

civic centre and the campanile at Piazza San Marco, a focus that may explain why significant portions of the city have been excluded to the south and east. The islands of Torcello, Mazzabo, and Burano to the northwest are reduced ‘to no more than modest satellites of the planet Venice,’ as Elisabeth Crouzet-Pavan aptly puts it.'° The vast lands of the terraferma — the Venetian mainland seen at the top of the sheets — have

been compressed to a thin band at the horizon, the whole protected by the fortress of Alps that isolates the historical centre in the foreground. Mercury, the messenger god of commerce and protector of trade and

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Se) A] al ee Se AHOR SS EA A Vere ype [ate ~PWR ee — =Wig aeaE fay Cae a ee tes etna || SL hea Se lejBet ee —Or eee te [SSCS SSS RS a> Ne. ee i ss Hs [eve \ | Lp feet | ee, a. ee ne. — ete | YB etei! | SS } | hoe ee PAAR DIC adeS See, ee ape eg a7 lye Wa a SL et duce Be fe ,| || ary eS | eel ON i ie Sa ,) 2m [Wee \\ | Se | NI Nee hat e, = I |. oeaBe.i—a ! —_ C | —_T / a oe a ; Pe =) a | | a: \ —s i a eo a . ee = A —~— ne Maal lie — SS — is aerate er ; | wt) imi il ’a s ray 4i due \ seed. | Se >—_——_L_.. ——— aeen awayeee, Vi A| afr a) "t a | \ — —, —t —_| aot / oJ pe a ss ZB ||| ay oe *, | eas aa | to j to ] 2 es ee | "Trevi Cacrn-, cr cit a ME ait — , + iG ay ee Oe ee Rs r EE ae Bee's) bys Pik Pata he Po oT he hr 5 = | i! | | a eT ie ceth he x — h Le RON A é girs) } gee TOL] Ther ga tise rea) me | we a, it 7 AE t wy: i | eS Mia) ba gee pp NN | .mt BC ah = Beg) TA ,ae = aGe) aN iat Cs eyce Ses halle, ‘ee hs bee a Per rc =‘ i.Ake “ to"€=sywf fai! =~ ‘aS aie

AP See % — a el fee COR TIE TVS . : etz Ae edEVO i : Mo

| eSEeSa hos?ee2ee‘et yf eeCf| CST n't)fe eeeade=——— ye ALTE

Figure 7 World Map. Francesco Berlinghieri, Marsilio Ficino, Ptolemy, Geographia (Florence: Nicolaus Germanus, 1482) [| photo: Newberry Library, Chicago]

Sixteenth-Century Printed Maps of Venice 41

De fanctificatione leptime oici Onfiuneiate istrur munde:per fabicam Oia folerae fer Oferum.C can cin oufpolitt t oat randé pfcen fine celi t rerra.Compleurr oe? ghofus opus fiz es et. rote feprimie ab operth? o AA fran: poths acum mundi:g omnia quc in co funt creatlet:no quali operande Latlus: fed nouam creaturam facere ceffa curr cuts materia vel fimilicgde non preceffertt. Opus enim propagay

Honis operart non oefunte rooms erdem drt benediets fanenficanse lla; yocauitgs (pian SS.abara qued nomen beb2aica lingua requiem figmificat.o op in ipfo ceflaverat ab om opere qo patrarat. Cin < Pudet co die a laboubus prop2ys vacare Orgnofcorur. Qquem T ante leges certe genres ecleb2em obfer uarunt. Jamep ad caleen yentum eft operam dunnozum. Plum ergo mmecanis: amemius:tycnercmur.

in quo fune oma flue wiftorlia fue mifibila ea domme cel comine boner ommi. Cut data onus potcitas mn celo 7 in terra.e¢ prefentia bona; quatenus bona fint Et yeram eferine vite felucrtatem queral

Mus.

——— Ba Synbiolanus p= en So, es oe oe" Se 37 ag

Wap ENE ya pr BEE oe r= We =< — aSorLL. i olyah a +7 hy i=— =e-| SES men -ae af Ai ily nicMid a1 Oe % "—— pe te itsFae raer ,=MY

(SO: ony “Sa ho 81 Ae Bd Se. «Nes icant OG AG AE A ; Se gee at ey (eT gate, Ss Pay a Re 4 : Seaphn | ES ma BE Pat 1g a ake iN Bei iN = oo ip jee

| @hyeeraboars Ee a = iG 0) Bg ee hes fe ai ae * ey —_— Chere DeMf AE “opel “Hpi tasPoet Vaiwhe eS ot reay fe OI AMG aie, yl eeSPS La 4aa:aaa Ne in ae,oN bE =, SSS Se Pe Aeee Ak. —— ee nla ed ra ; : = — : al a — — Se - nS =“a i : — a a _ ' Pen —_ ie on —— a OO ————— — en a en —i aes

ae I ee SSS eet

ee ee

a|pee L . —— — at tN :raezSoeese—— nena = “i: ee — = =ar_—

-- 2 Li _—s—=—i ean - a = 7 eo wore es —_—- — —* emt = ee - - ie ie

zg = : ps : cs Li : - . === Ee a Sa — —s i ~ > = a ae : oo ¥ mi x

: sou - = ae!sl OO ee === .,say. ae 7S z : tie : .5 whe a1 7;..See: SS — ——Pa . ee ——e S = ss oe Fae ; —.. i te oe“hess es > : — [= Set: aE aon era. — ——— _—— Pe r " ian —O =e 2 ee aSS —F 7a “ , aSSeS — -—at+a————— Or oe———--" —= -—.=— “Tau_ :=ae : , "i “4; “> ais ae . ES ee Be i = ee : | in isa . be = = =p —_ ———— = ” e& a Se ae “ai r]a—_ zrke = a~ RRS *" *-ae2e ~~=a ——— = t ' _— ~ : _ = ae —_—. [a = a = 6. SSre. *= A or. ; i —==— : =SSS ae . =- .6s - ——_= Th nae ——— —= ey ee ey . er — = : ae -- =—— :Se —i =, —tt sl) Fy, or ——_ tel 1s. —— — —— —) a, | a ee ree _ = ree, i a — PS: _ Bes eri + = = : > ~ a eeOe Niii| ‘ es z 4 pee . to eee eTae 9S 2 ESE Sn) ies Ue es A Se a ES ~s: pee — oer RS poe sas he : Sa trie ay + re — he oe i - oe a ! eee a. ae) Sete pe 4 = = —. 3 —_ _— = a — Seen EERE - = —-— , _* 's neil -- E

Pe ies . at —— ae tn — _——— == — —— Oe

- = | cA. se ; +. i, is _ i — i , a Sees ala ff —— “a z] P Se, a . ‘ a = -—. = —_

= 2 ae rrae4 Ee ay ees q | aioe a | oa we _— _ alg — Srna, | = A 2! a* ea 5Pani eeee aniynS A eee 4—ares :, gree |MOR Wrccare om wa o Cae °“cone i _—-. Pe :ae b! SSe, =x ; = ey heae gall>) Ne 4 ee rey: ear (eater =

\(r ISPe(eee ee ee 15 NPte yee Fo assa OySS Peas . := \"T RIONF] FESTE ET CERIMONI EPVBLICHE =D)

fs | | DELLA NOBILISSIMA CITTA Di e aa

Bers. VENETIA a aw , ay =

4, A 11 Graceme Franco forma In Fregszaria al lavegna dei Sole con Prigalegie | ecg ue

oe. ee TNR i«Sl Si tes roy esSERIE ‘a ERR > RCA Pe .eatPsSensis Po ae a OY a =encies

@& a a 4Ee C Se ee ll adie ase eh eR ey =e G ty| ee Coppa Page Figure 16 Giacomo Franco, Frontispiece, Habilz dhuomenit et donne veneliane (Venice: Giacomo Franco, 1610). Engraving, 232 x 177 mm [photo: Museo Correr, Venice |

Sixteenth-Century Printed Maps of Venice 67 Here ... is the design that I send to your Serenity of the marvellous city of Venice in spherical form, a real portrait of the world, whose resemblance is so close to nature, and made by the arts, similar to the orb of the earth, those who well admire this design discover, from the height of a bird, the Arctic pole and the Antarctic and also from the East and the West with all the other parts that go around this world; similarly circled by water in a

manner that seems the continent is entirely surrounded by the great ocean. What is it then to be deprived of the knowledge of cosmography, such that one does not know that the whole world is primarily composed of three parts, that is Europe, Africa, & Asia and that all parts in a continent are compiled in the appointed manner, as is this noble city; Geographers know without doubt that outside of our continent is America. One sees, even outside of the contained body of Venice, the Giudecca, in a guise that resembles the new world; the islands, and peninsulas with the reefs and shallows, each one mirrors the design that you will see corresponds in a true likeness to the appearance of the world map, as was said; I will say again that the districts are in such a number, as are the provinces of the world; but, having the will to make a major design of this form, & to locate all under its climate and degree, in height as in breadth, with the shape of the machine of the world (as I will make again) and with this drawn for your excellency to accept, and for your enjoyment together with the dress of Venetian women, with other designs of figures, which I have made for your curiosity, with the intention of making a large number of them.'*”

Franco has rotated the bird’s-eye view of Venice about seventy-five degrees to the east and projected it onto a sphere, transforming the islands of Venice into the continents of the world. Giudecca with its terra incognita to the west represents the new world of America; Dorsoduro and San Polo are Europe; Cannaregio and Castello stand in for Asia and Africa respectively. Rialto occupies the position of Venice on world maps as the crossroads between continents. And San Marco is located on the crest of the globe, at the centre of the Venetian world, sited as the new Jerusalem.

In contrast to the beginning of the sixteenth century, when Venice was faced with losses to the Ottoman Turks in the Stato da Mar, and intensifying hostility from European powers, the end of the century could be perceived as a time of peace and opulence. As doge Nicolo Contarini proclaimed: At the time, the Republic enjoyed the outward confidence of every Prince

68 The World in Venice

MRA RE OS GK AAR SG

Rs=oe-tr i SUT RSS QAR al AX eeoaON ee 2.) A Bs,RES hk RA he Se ee am 528 SSSa Se ek NY | tes “aksCASS a yk 3icexpeo o TE eeWg SO Se ‘he Ee) Ven AP Se nae ny Ys SO ND ee ad SSS Na a AF LA OO iaeOe eeeMore eee. ND ak:NN RReeEGS aed a ‘iBie. 2 oe 3 stWAN at a a. Shes

¥ Ad‘-a ® ne 7 wo Fy & ea :nas “ff 4 |, 1}Oy ne a —" S to a = OFY gl eee , a oe hw SS os Cea. Wh eke a)AFoc ae “h Now ee f AEBS MINE Nek We Boe a(e: eg Ulg \) iYSy = aeee | PreS47 eer ae Ca yeh Non 4VS taae Ie:Se BAR lee be 7 ee rn se | LS I Pewee 0 Ne P? |) RNAS - ob 4 8 2 aeie tetee t meDae t.4 cae tm ‘o- = tg < a Sine aA =eeeeeeM ea: ere | ery Se.

aBe: et yee ae aie by aSeal re ee tabee wg, a i= he: oe 3 Pike, | shi‘ha Paes:leFsi oo Aa = * ahTORS = ig Mea )—_ ve eei ee A. ae

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———SS SS ee ES )ape Av orSe ce . + ee wr -7,1sz: = a ek Pee Ea A. : ‘ 5 a2os “sn a es eeHi : , JaPn b Me a Psx Ae

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See nas nhc reettest ee ee ee: --2ee eyie; wae oH tee aa aVey ds a ips ams —_a2Se > aeR a rs¥7SN - —oe cTe 2aeTose ; meee ~" ioe =f\“. =‘ ~ at ae £ a om “-y = aS= ~FEGitex tr Fa Ps : F A 7] 7y atF Te Pa“1F: tlh ati af +a i ea f-ewer

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5Bear a : aeeee , aan eure rr =_ Ia_— = . % Xs,

ee .se eeeS. f=)rir ses= teaac ah =\ ae leh ae esee oie+ifffoS et Be MEH — ey aS! < a |aN | i )ESR i i AY LS | Be Ie (: 7 e 3 ES ; = eee : pats ‘3: =. >: ee . Bey iS | i = LT a | a 4 . ai akties lnpercenr feet VO mae Biormidicy: | | we teh rogieeoeem p= BOS iaeee ¥, ) ||——————_—_— seb ie lon Haber Tass fa atl ad gan eemantee Se De) Sn a Ceferral cheats abi a cfr amma made a pedretig, injblles pags ay F Sa Fin Sin hoa oe Beton |

Fi c ———o Ts : = tt ate ein Se ertine v7 feeniabrs Ophivafioes in Tardy ee : Be gure 21. Abraham de Bruyn, Jurkish Cos ,

ridsh L on ). Engravit oblongoli folio

[photo:: by b impermission ‘ostumes, Omnium ibrary, peneBrit Europae London] M. Col(1) eraving, of the } . (Antwerp: : M.810.k.2. Colyn, 1581). E

80 The World in Venice

images identified as Moors and Ethiopians provide exceptions to the generic body type, reflecting familiarity with visual images of their faces

in Western art, the presence of North Africans as servants in Italian households, and the history of Moors on the continent.*! Familiarity with pictorial conventions for depicting the black magus, for example, would have equipped Europeans with the cognitive framework to recognize some distinctive facial differences. The blackness of Ethiopians had long been attributed to their equatorial location, and given the practice of copying models by costume illustrators, the Ethiopian profile likely signalled geographical accuracy. However, the discovery of lightskinned

peoples in equatorial regions of the Americas confounded ancient sources and prompted a range of theories to explain differences in skin colour, such as the kinds of food digested, latitude, and divine will.?? Although sixteenth-century writers used the word ‘race,’ the meaning of the word was more closely analogous with ‘nation,’ in the sense of ‘a eroup connected by common descent or origin.’*” The contemporary resonances of these terms are brought together by Jean de Glen in the preface to his costume book Des habits, moeurs, cerimonies ... du monde, published in Liege in 1601: The people of God came from the good race and sacred seed of the Patriarchs; according to scripture, corruption and depravation were imputed to intimacy and conversation with foreign nations ... How today can all the countries and nations so degenerated of candour and sincerity above all, except by a similar mingling with foreigners? And our country, which has

become expanded so much from its first fullness, that like a Proteus, it changes every day; it diversifies itself and metamorphoses its costumes, habits, languages, and customs; again it sees the pleasures, voluptuousness, delights and vices of the more profligate nations?**

The text, magnified by de Glen’s singularly acerbic mixture of xenopho-

bia and religious morality, recalls Sansovino’s warnings, cited above, about the contagious dangers of costume. Instead of facial features, it was ‘costumes, habits, languages, and customs’ that resonated as signifiers of race; physiognomy, as a signifier of race in its modern sense — as a

sign of ethnic distinctiveness — was a concept not yet clearly articulated.*? Instead, physiognomy was still associated with class or moral values and understood as external signs of the soul. Thus a misshapen profile could be used to signify an evil interior. Abraham de Bruyn exaggerated facial features of rural dwellers to distinguish them from urban

i} cP | a | tp |f ; | eRe. a Tf es ee, ES oa a' ae le = ee | , Ya —_ i reat

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AY er arb | : Jak = —_— = , i Wi 4) itl te H vy = | % Ne = ——— ae — 3 *, : fe es , re 4 rare

ie — =e 3 VET ete! We — , Wiirrettfongie i, \ |

WesMe piers OB) be Belg See | etek Siete _% : | Ss Ve se a ” Be \e Se a ee =. (avyrhitie ae =, -ae , papeegrae fi —————————— ’ aisSf =——— ‘— 1 === =e a wath |aeeh _—— aa ty th. ah fe ———— S| Se F) s\n — T=Oe asebul ee he bat =F ire of ees = Enfant | (So pee #1 Nd WO iW ted Yice,! Br (Es|= atesete |Sare an | tah | =——— Pete Aih alk.geket Nip f htS—_ eleeeedobt |r=aha | =OE attach "eat fly—Faoe aeheile—_ | 3 aebalan ee cance ——— HM8 ee

r=

|fel > S SSS Es, yl, ee : |Mu;eed ae rtatrix in Leeda ig iteioy . Vea i Mibaaie: | Veo Vira hl rer al Lew Virginig jf € Al eid : Amginis fue ¢ mbit

Ss a co

f t . oe : G& Fiore. atrAiicineé nm (fat wa77 Pagan cultures could be aligned with primitive Europeans, a view that bound the concept of the universal body to the notion of a universal Christian world. Indeed, a variety of writers claimed that it was the stability of Turkish costumes over time that attested to their moral intransigence.” Copying and tracing were common among printmakers,” but in the costume prints these practices contributed to the meanings and didactic effects of the images. Abraham de Bruyn’s Virgo Veneta (fig. 25, right), first published in Cologne in 1577, provided a source for Jean Jacques

Boissard’s Virgo, seen in his Lyon edition of 1581 (fig. 26, centre). In turn, Boissard’s figure was traced by the engraver of a printed album

: zreside ¥ s .Y| 4i aPe a if tiie. iteine ,A, , Peat . =i ip

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ihe. of Ge UMW i Sen eS — ee wl f el i) Fe is i wie EF * — * iste it | WV a Se 3 . % iw ea a | Bee be i 33 . | FE— - erhall 4 Ba =: -= | : : xe = 3 EN —=— } fr | | z BS = ——— ss es a Lc = | aS Vz S| gee. Se 0 See Se ee ee ee7

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=, ay ‘ : 8 ‘ PiVeesae! —= P eee satan _ oan “ee —— Fens ‘Gl —_ : = a s a = ;

' ¥ SF Sabaudiam. j

Pedimontanus . rujtieus. Baglica Pediroutana genitlt amicta . Rugtca Brefana. Brojfam veteres Seceu/tarees Ruyfticuer m Campanta Gallica: Deraye rant infer fl. fraron et Pb idan prepe

Figure 23. Abraham de Bruyn /talian Country Folk, Omnium pene Europae (Antwerp: M. Colyn, 1581). Engraving, oblon folio [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] 810.k.2. (1)

84 The World in Venice

—_ i | 7 is Tez es ae ee Figure 27. Virgo Veneta, Album amicorum, habitus mulierum omniu nationu Luropae (Leuven: Jean-Baptiste Zangrius, 1599). Engraving, oblong 8° [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] €.28.b.15

88 The World in Venice

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Figure 28 Cesare Vecellio, Donzelle, Habitt antichi et moderni di tutto il mondo (Venice: Sessa, 1598) Woodcut, 8°, 20 cm [photo: Newberry Library, Chicago]

Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 89 SE ie! Pe

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Figure 29. Virgo Venela, Pietro Bertelli, Diversarum nationum habitus (Padua: Pietro Bertelli and Alcia Alciato, 1594) Engraving, small 8° [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] 810.c.2

90 The World in Venice

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Figure 31 Abraham de Bruyn, Llalian Senators and Officials, Omnium pene Luropae (Antwerp: M. Colyn, 1581). Engraving, oblong folio [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] 810.k.2. (1)

92 The World in Venice

amicorum, as evidenced by the identical scale and mirror image of the intaglio process (fig. 27). This form of book, to which I will return, was first published in Leuven in 1599 and subsequently reprinted in 1601 and 1605. Even the Venetian artist Vecellio adopted the figure for his woodcuts, using the familiar silhouette for both Spose non sposate (brides to be) and Donzelle (Venetian virgins) (fig. 28).°' Copying was not always slavish however. For example, Pietro Bertelli, whose first volume of cos-

tumes was published in Padua in 1589, played with the contradictory image of marriageable girls who ‘do walke abroad with their breastes all naked,’** but also ‘go about, as another visitor exclaimed, ‘so completely covered up, that I do not know how they can see to go along the streets’ (fig. 29).°° Instead of distinguishing between the form of the body and the dress, the artist tailored the figure from parts, like a carapace. Headless, Pietro suggests to his viewers; a virgin is not a body in clothes, but a body of clothes. As these examples demonstrate, the meanings of the image were not bound to any original model; instead it was the representation of a concept that migrated, a concept that was crystallized in the outline.

Many characteristics of costume illustrations correspond to those seen in artists’ model books. For example, the pages of a fifteenth-century northeast Italian manuscript are filled with allegorical and standing figures (fig. 30; compare with fig. 31). The sheet provides six models for

depicting famous men, each of whom is separated from the other, arranged in two rows, and identified by a label.’* The plain ground liberates the figures from any specific geographical setting, thereby facilitating their use as models by artists in different contexts. In the costume books, by contrast, these conventions were deployed for their clarity and cognitive value. As a means to compare and organize geographical differences, these representational concerns can be linked to the pictorial strategies used for scientific illustration. As Abraham de Bruyn explains, the costume book was a vehicle of classification, a means to diagram the world’s diversity: Many knowledgeable people have put their interests to use to research and describe the situation of the four principal parts of the world, with the origins, customs, and conditions of the people there: a kind of endeavour that

brings real satisfaction for enthusiasts and amateurs of science. There remains the true form and different modes of their attire which I have set as my work to represent as faithfully as possible by means of having

Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 93 received from some friends certain rare figures not yet known by the art of engraving or printing.”

De Bruyn’s own zoological engravings attest to this mode of classification on the basis of visual characteristics; the specimens are organized according to their contours and surface texture, as if variations on a sinele species (compare figure 32 with figs. 31, 18, 25).°° Capitalizing on the effects of block cutting and intaglio, these artists combined the art of the tailor with that of the scientific illustrator in a display of feathers, pleats, slashes, and ruffs. Brocade, lace, and other patterns ideally suited to the burin were substituted for scales and fur. Wings were exchanged for sleeves, gills for slashes, and armour for shells. The distinctive markings and the emphatic visual attention to the contours enabled costume to define the species, as it were, of the human genus.

Herbals and botanical illustration provide further insights into the function of printed costume books, since artists sought to diagram the ‘unruly’ New World with its unfamiliar vegetation.®’ Print media were ideally suited for illustrating morphological patterns, as David Landau and Peter Parshall state, the kinds of visible features that enabled botanists to produce a structural taxonomy.”*® This development was initially hindered, however, by the process with which the illustrations were prepared for Otto Brunfels’s Herbarum vivae eicones, an early botanical (1530-40; fig. 33).°” Hans Weiditz, Brunfels’s illustrator, carefully depicted the characteristics of an individual specimen in watercolour, and

the woodcutters in turn reproduced these details with great precision for the printed volumes. Their attention to the particulars of a singular plant, however, limited the identification of the type in the field, a practice that instead required ‘useful symptom[s] of identity.’“° The scientific limitations of Weiditz’s faithful copies become clear when compared with the new prototypes published by Leonhard Fuchs in his De historia stirpium (1542; fig. 34).*! In contrast to the wilting specimen

copied by Weiditz from the workshop table, Fuchs’s representation of Verbena presents the general characteristics of the species; the exemplar is depicted as if a living plant, but its parts are arranged to aid identification: leaves, stems, roots, and flowers can be inspected from all sides in the single view.

By 1583, with the publication of Andrea Cesalpino’s De plantis lbn, the system of classification was itself altered. In contrast to Brunfels and Fuchs, who followed the tradition of organizing herbals on the basis of

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Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 95

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¢)é

96 The World in Venice

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Figure 34 Verbena Recta Sive Mas, Leonhard Fuchs, De Historia stirpium (Basel, 1542). Woodcut, folio, 380 x 240 mm [photo: Osler Library, McGill University, Montreal |

Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 97

medicinal properties, Cesalpino classified his plants on the basis of their physical characteristics.* All of these authors illustrated male and female specimens, a mode of classifying sexual difference that is also characteristic of costume books; male and female types are almost always depicted on separate pages. In contrast to male figures, which are organized by profession (doge, sena-

tor, procurator), women are identified by their marital status (virgin, wife, widow) or in relation to their husbands’ position (dogaressa, imbasciatrice, or procuratessa).*” Courtesans and prostitutes were working women and thus exceptions to this paradigm. Vecellio classifies his example of these types according to a hierarchy of status that reflected the spaces in which they worked. Thus Vecellio contrasts the ‘infamous

places’ inhabited by the street prostitute with the balconies on which courtesans can be seen soliciting clients (figs. 35, 36).** In a world viewed through theories of resemblance, men and women could be understood as parallel hierarchies; women were not different, just less developed, according to contemporary legal, theological, and scientific discourses. They were described as misbegotten: ‘not in the ordinary course of Nature [praeter naturam],’ as Cornelius Lapide put it, and ‘not necessarily of the same species.’ Lacking the hot, dry humours found in men, women famously lacked reason. In the case of reproduction, this meant that it was women who provided the matter and men who contributed the form. An intriguing alternative to this Aristotelian wisdom is offered by the Venetian Giuseppe Rosaccio, cartographer, printmaker, and author who in his Microcosmo compares human reproduction to the generation of plants. The form of offspring ‘is not made by the soul of the father, or of the mother, but by another, third [agent] that one finds inside the seed; and in order for this to be merely vegetative, without any capacity of imagination until its time is done, as we say,

this [agent] only follows its vegetative movements ... doing nothing except perpetuate its species.’*° Rosaccio’s parallel between gestation and germination resonates with the broader tendency to find resemblances between plants, animals, geography, and costume, affinities that are highlighted by shared pictorial strategies. *’ Botanical illustrators were consummate copyists, a result in part of the

ephemeral nature of their models and the encyclopedic content of botanicals. Costume books required similar representational strategies.** In contrast to drawing from life — a practice subject to a range of contingencies, viewpoints, and the particulars of specific models, such as colour — print brought forward general characteristics, or essences.

98 The World in Venice

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Figure 39. Two female costumes with escutcheons dated 1574. Manuscript, watercolour, gouache, ink [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] Egerton 1191

Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 107

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Figure 40) Duca di Venetia from the album amicorum of P. Behaim from Nuremberg with a signature dated 1576. Manuscript, watercolour, gouache,

ink [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] Egerton 1192

108 The World in Venice

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Figure 41 La dodesca di Venetie with signature dated 1575 from an album amicorum. Manuscript, watercolour, gouache, ink [photo: by permission of the British Library, London] Additional 15699

Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 109

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110 The World in Venice

of spirit,’ thereby merging patrician values with humanist ideals in what one scholar has called ‘the noble cult of friendship,’ a coterie that may explain the dearth of women’s signatures.” Family arms and signatures of colleagues — presented in the company of emblems, costumes, allego-

ries, portraits, comic figures, and famous sites — asserted a relation between the visible and intellectual worlds in which their owners lived. The inscriptions provided testimony of an owner’s acquaintances and thus fulfilled a variety of functions. An illustrious signature could pro-

vide opportunities; like a passport, it could open doors.’* Reflecting upon the motivational ideas conveyed in the pictures, texts, and comments inscribed by their professors and colleagues, students were offered moral guidance while being incited to intellectual vigour as

directed by humanists.’ To paraphrase Melanchthon, the books encouraged industriousness through their combination of inscriptions, which furnished wise teaching on one side and knowledge of the character and biographical details of the contributor on the other.” Moral guidance was the goal of Johann Theodor and Johann Israel de Bry, who offered pictures of positive exempla to emulate and ‘coarser’ behaviour to avoid in their Emblemata secularia (1611) /® & third edition, pub-

lished in 1614 in Frankfurt, continued this pedagogic track; the title encapsulates the function of the albums in general: Pourtraict de la cosmosgraphie morale ... une centurie des plus belles inventions ... pour presenter et cor-

riger les moeurs. As collections of names, albums could serve as memory

aids and also as a list of absent individuals to whom one could toast when drinking socially.” Indeed, in the preface to his Stamm-oder Gesellenbuch, first published in 1579, Sigmund Feyerabend opined that Schddtbucher (books causing mischief) might be a more accurate description than Stammbucher. “Many an honest man,’ he assures his audience, “considers making use of such a “Stammbuch.”’ This one, he contends, will

even benefit the reader; ‘indeed, he will see himself in it as in the

Socratic mirror, and will find what defects in himself he must improve.’”® Already in his Bibliorum, printed in 1571, Feyerabend advances morality and self-betterment; the printed models of coats of arms — to be embellished by the owner and his friends — are interleaved with illustrations of biblical stories identified by Latin captions. One of these volumes, owned by Conrad Weis, includes a manuscript costume

illustration of a Venetian noble in a fur-lined toga that is signed by

Weis’s friend Cavilo Scheiner ‘1586.’

What was the function of such an image amid a variety of handpainted arms and allegorical figures? And what does this context sug-

Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies I11

gest about the meanings of costume? Typically flashy and painted in brilliant gouache colours, the vestments appear to have been drawn from life, an impression furthered by meticulous attention to tailoring and textiles (figs. 39-42).°° For example, the doge cuts an elegant figure in his ermine cape, gold cloak, and swish red robes with their wide, alla dogalina sleeves, painted to resemble luxurious velvet (fig. 40). With their poses and sophisticated rendering of foreign dress, the paintings might seem analogous with modern fashion plates. However, their function was significantly different.

Understanding the role of this imagery is complicated by the vast number of albums, each of which is a unique record of an individual’s life, travels, and friendships. And yet, with the exception of the vivid colour, the representational conventions of the painted figures are remarkably similar to those in the printed costume books (compare, for example, figs. 43 and 44). A single figure, usually identified by a Latin label, often fills a page, and the absence of any setting renders the shape

of the costume central. Costumes and poses are repeated in different albums by different hands, attesting to the use of manuscript or printed models instead of painting from life. In contrast to print, however, manuscript illustrators could more easily accommodate changes in fashion such as the spiral corni into which Venetian women bound their hair at the end of the sixteenth century. The hand-painted pictures could thereby command a certain currency, as if individuals seen in the flesh. Artists of these sartorial souvenirs com-

bined conventions and gestures known to them from models with an attention to the materiality of costume. This was a naturalistic mode of ‘conterfeiting, as Peter Parshall explains the term, used to claim ‘the truth of the eye-witness account.’®’

Many of the Venetian types sought by collectors, moreover, were the elite and the infamous: the doge, dogaressa, and courtesan. The popu-

larity of the dogaressa in these albums bore little relation to the real experiences of visitors, however. Between the public festivities for the coronations of Zilia Dandolo Priuli in 1557 and Morosina Morosini Grimani in 1597, when many manuscript and printed illustrations considered here were made, there were few, if any, ceremonies in which the dogaressa could have been seen in public. Zilia Dandolo would remain in the Palazzo Ducale only until 1559, when her husband died. War with the Turks precluded any ceremony for dogaressa Loredana Marcello, the wife of Alvise Mocenigo (1570-7), and she died in 1572. Sebastiano Venier, Mocenigo’s successor (1577-8), died before a procession could

112) The World in Venice

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Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 113

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120 The World in Venice

tures of friends and acquaintances, as emblems of the moral imperatives registered in dress, the kind of imperatives being negotiated by the signatories and owners themselves as they travelled between cities. Legislating Visibilities

For foreigners, as I have been suggesting, pictorial representations of costumed figures functioned as icons of the republic, whose meanings were fixed over time. For the Venetian state, by contrast, costume was a sign of identity — profession, status, faith — and the legibility of this sys-

tem of visual classification required continual surveillance since transgressions, such as unlawful extravagances or changing one’s clothes, disrupted the social order. Morever, Venice’s singularity, as Francesco

Sansovino and others noted, was a result of the presence of “people from the most distant parts of the earth who come together here ... to deal and trade.’'"* And sorting out these foreigners required ensuring that their attire was consistent with their identities. Yet the dangers of travel in the sixteenth century forced merchants and wayfarers to change their clothes, names, and even faith. Instead of something inalienable and bound irrevocably to the self, identities could be adopted as voyagers moved between cities.'°° In what follows I consider evidence from Venetian judicial processes

that aimed to sort out the meanings invested in clothes, their social expectations, and the identities of those who inhabited them. I begin with problems raised by individuals who changed their clothes, then turn to an unusual arraignment in the Venetian colony of Crete; in this case, the clothes were the same, but the body that wore them changed. As a trading crossroads, and with its reputation for religious tolerance and independence from Rome, Venice in the sixteenth century was composed of a complex mosaic of ethnic groups. Protestants from Germany and Muslims from the Ottoman Empire passed through the city, residing with their communities that had been established in particular neighbourhoods. Germans were housed at the Fondaco dei Tedeschi (1505—8), and an equivalent structure to contain the Turkish community was considered by the senate throughout the century, although not instituted until 1617.'°° Jews had been official residents since 1382, and in 1516 they were confined to the ghetto. The ghetto and its inhabitants could be viewed as a parish, as separate but different, as parts of ‘a single, coherent

order.’!°” On the other hand, as Randolph Head explains further, the Jews represented a threat to this unified image: ‘Judaism was itself form-

Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 121

less, but always threatening to the foundations of order.’'’® The issue became more complex with the arrival of Jews and Muslims from the Iberian peninsula — beginning in 1492 — many of whom had been forced to

convert to Christianity. Marranos, a disparaging term used to describe converted Jews, were expelled from Portugal when it was annexed by Philip I in 1580.'°” Morescos — Arabic Muslims who had been forced to adopt Christian customs — were pushed out of Spain throughout the century and eventually expelled in 1609. It was in this context, complicated by the arrival of ‘New Christians,’ that the Venetian Inquisition in 1547 began its investigations ‘of apostasy and Judaizing.’''? Numerous Venetian Inquisition cases document the interrogation of visitors suspected of converting from Christianity to Lutheranism, Judaism, and Islam.

Since the Fourth Lateran Council in 1215, it had been decreed that Jews were to be distinguished from Christians in order to prohibit sexual relations between them. In Venice, one way of distinguishing Jews was the colour of their hats.''' The official process ‘of keeping Jews in what was considered to be their proper place,’ as Benjamin Ravid has shown, required continual efforts by the state to ensure compliance. There were many exemptions granted by the state for groups of Jews, and also numerous attempts to circumvent the sign of the coloured hats.''* For example, Brian Pullan cites the trial of Righetto Marrano, who evidently carried both yellow and black hats to be exchanged at a moment’s notice.''’ A Spaniard complained of a Jew from Rialto, Consalvo Baes, whom he accused of changing his clothes: ‘scoundrel, cheat, you did business with me in the dress of a Christian and now you dress as a Jew!’''* However it was baptized Christians, suspected of changing their faith, who could be accused of heresy, and changing one’s costume was material evidence. For many witnesses at heresy trials, as Randolph Head explains, bzretta zhalla (yellow hat) and biretia negra (black hat) became convenient shorthand for Jew and Christian.'!? Gian Giacomo de Fedeli was among those investigated for wearing both. During his trial he was asked if he went to mass, confessed, and took communion. He explained that he lived as a Jew in Venice, but when travelling outside the city, “I lived as a Christian and I was confessed and communicated and went to mass.’''° Questioned if he wore ‘a yellow hat to such offices,’ he replied, “No, sir, I went out of the land to Bressa [Brescia] ... and there I wore a black hat.’!!” Outside

the capital he traded his Jewish clothes for those of a Christian. The inquisitors were neither familiar nor interested in Jewish doctrine, but the defendant’s clothing furnished them with evidence from everyday

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experience. For both judges and witnesses in legal trials, the costume of suspects was used as evidence ‘to decide their real identity, and to condemn them if it conflicted with their primary, sacramental identity.’''® A subject's ‘real identity,’ then, was determined by the performance of certain rites that marked the individual’s affiliation with a community, but

also, and this is crucial, identity depended on the proper alignment between an individual’s actions and his or her appearance.'!” The Inquisition sought to define the boundaries between religious groups, and costume was charged with stabilizing identities. In one early trial, the defendant was asked if he was presently a Jew or a Christian, to which he replied: “Though I live as a Jew internally, externally lam named with the Christian (crossed out) name of ‘Tristano de

Costa.’'*? Asked whether this was a Jewish or a Christian name, he responded, ‘When my father gave me this name, he said [it was] because |1t would| be so much the better that he called me this name.’ Warned that he must answer the question of whether he was a Jew or a Christian, he stated, ‘I do not do the actions of a Christian.’ Tristano’s reference to his ‘actions’ corresponded with the inquisitors’ interests in the ways in which religious identity was performed. Instead of interrogating individuals about their beliefs, the judges focused on the rituals — baptism in particular — and ‘everyday patterns of behavior.’'*!

The merchant Andrea, the subject of another case, was born in Florence to Jewish parents and named Abraham, but later moved to Ferrara, where he was baptized and adopted his Christian name.!** When he travelled to Turkey, he wore the clothes of a Jew; in Ragusa, he transformed himself into a Christian. In Venice, where he lived in the ghetto, he was tried for heresy. Here too, the proceedings focused on the colour

of hat; Andrea explained his transmutations as follows: although baptized, he was forced to live as a Jew by his father. Indeed, his inheritance

depended upon his Jewish identity, necessitating that he live in the ghetto and wear the red hat, now the colour that identified a Jew.'*° Whatever Andrea’s ‘real’ faith, the exigencies of his life and his profession required that he fit in. The case thereby suggests that identities — even religious or ethnic ones — were not yet conceptualized as something intrinsic to the self.

But herein lay the problem, for as Head explains, ‘the Signoria resolved the tension between commercial advantage and religious purity by insisting that every individual should be clearly and unambiguously assigned to only one religion.’'** The value of such Inquisition cases, as Head stresses, does not lie in the information they provide about reli-

Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 123

gious communities but in the concerns they reveal regarding how these eroups were distinguished from Christians.'*? Where judges in the Spanish Inquisition came to the trials already certain of their conclusions on the basis of established stereotypes, the Venetian inquisitors investigated ambiguity. Thus, as Brian Pullan explains, ‘neither [the judges], nor the Venetians they summoned as witnesses, had any clear idea of what they were looking for, and were generally prepared to be surprised.’!*° More-

over, in religious directives after the Council of Trent, costume was described as a sign and the wearer’s adherence to the costume’s meaning signified its effect. The aim was congruence between the sign and the referent, between, for instance, a cleric’s habit and his pious actions. The comportment of the wearer was to become habitual and thereby in turn

to invest the costume with its meanings. !?’ As the Inquisition records indicate, it was the perception of a gap between the costume and the performance that preoccupied the inquisitors. Venice was a departure point to the east, and travellers to the Levant often relinquished their native dress in favour of Ottoman attire. Vene-

tians en route to Constantinople dressed as Turks for protection, and perhaps to signal the threshold between the two cultures. For example, the artist Gentile Bellini returned in Ottoman dress following his work for Mehmed II, whose portrait he painted in 1481.'*° The bailo, the Venetian ambassador, and his retinue were given robes of state by the Grand Vizier and the sultan.'*” Even before departing from Venice, however, the bailo and his family might appear for their journey attired in Ottoman costume.'*” After the unexpected defeat of the Turks at Lepanto, the triumphant Venetian soldiers returned to Venice dressed up as Turks.!”! Nevertheless, the distinction between dressing as a Muslim (da turco), appearing as one (far turco), or turning into a Muslim (farsz turco) was a

crucial one.’** These concerns are demonstrated in a brief sketch of an

early seventeenth-century case in which three men, Fra Giovanni Fecondo, Giovanni Lopez, and Bartolomeo Derera — from Barcelona, Madrid, and Seville respectively — arrived in Venice dressed as Christians.'°’ Outcast and impoverished, they were offered support by the Muslim community at the Fondaco (casa de Turchi, Ghetto), where, according to witnesses, they shaved their heads and traded their Christian clothes for Turkish ones. Guided to a merchant galley bound for Constantinople, they were arrested, ‘dressed as Muslims (da turchi) and wearing turbans,’ and accused of converting to Islam.'** The two Giovannis, a friar from the order of hermits of Saint August-

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ine and a soldier, initially identified themselves as Morescos, Muslims forced to live as Christians in Spain, but both later confessed to having been baptized. Fra Giovanni then asserted that he wanted ‘to be a Muslim (far turco) on the outside, and not to renounce his faith in his heart.’ When the Turks were sleeping, he testified, he would secretly make the

sign of the cross, adding that he had negated his faith ‘only with his mouth and not otherwise with his heart.’!*? Bartolomeo initially denied

being baptized, accounting for his Christian dress as mere ceremony, but he later recanted, stating ‘I became a Turk (farmi turco), but not with

my heart, because I am a Christian.’ Presumably compromised by his early testimony ‘of having experienced being Christian only ceremonially,’ Bartolomeo, like Fra Giovanni, was sentenced to the galleys on sus-

picion of heresy.’ By contrast, Giovanni Lopez denied either dressing as a Turk (da turco) or becoming one (farsi turco), and he was released. He confessed only to shaving his hair and eating meat on two Fridays but asserted that

he had had no intention of giving up his faith. Indeed, he claimed to have urged Fra Giovanni to return to the Christian faith. Giovanni Lopez was freed on the condition that he was forbidden from all dealings — especially those of faith — with Turks or other infidels. Costume,

like eating meat on Fridays and circumcision, was evidence of having acted as a Muslim, and clearly legislated religious identity required a cor-

relation between one’s faith on the interior and how one appeared to others on the outside.!®’ For the inquisitors, then, to dress like a Muslim was a symptom of having becoming one. In contrast to these cases in which costume was interpreted as a sign of identity, an unusual case of travestimento (disguise) turned the process inside out. In 1594, the Quarantia Criminale investigated a denunciation

that was sent to the doge from Zuanne Semitecolo, the councillor of Retimo (present-day Réthimnon) in Crete, where a peasant, Frangia Cudumini, was accused of having impersonated the Venetian governor. The masquerade — for the man was seen in the red clothes of a Rettore (governor) — was allegedly staged by the vice-governor Pesaro ‘in his pal-

ace where he dressed a peasant in his red cloth, with a Romana (a long robe) and a round cap.’ Wearing the red cloak, and escorted from the palace by soldiers, the peasant attracted a crowd that followed him to town. The soldiers reportedly encouraged the charade by exclaiming ‘here is the Governor Falier,’ whom they mocked by striking the impostor in the face with a cap. “When I saw this,’ lamented Semitecolo, ‘I was filled with the greatest pain, considering it an ugly act made against a noble.’'”®

Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 125

In response to the accusation, a lengthy and secretive investigation attempted to ascertain how Cudumini came to wear the red clothes, his intentions regarding the masquerade, and the response of those who saw him in the garments. Great attention was paid to this Romana during the process, the long robe that was worn by some nobles in Venice and

identified with the uniform of Venetian governors in the provinces.'°” The cloak was not the black one worn by nobles, Cudumini specified to the magistrates, but a pretina, a long robe closed in front with many buttons, ‘like that worn by you.’'*” Stranded in Retimo, he explained, and possessing only a single shirt and pants, he had asked the vice-governor for something to wear. Since the only old clothes he had were red, he directed Cudumini to take them to a lawyer, who would give him two lire

for them. On account of the cold, he donned the jacket and cloak. ‘Were you not able to imagine,’ asked one official, ‘that those clothes were not suitable for a peasant like you and that wearing them publicly would have conveyed the impression that you intentionally imitated the dress of the governor, because everyone would come with admiration to

see you?’'*! However Cudumini denied these accusations and any knowledge of the significance of the attire. Indeed, he asked, cleverly, how he could have imagined the effect, since he had never worn the costume before? Repeatedly witnesses were asked to confirm if they heard the words reported by Semitecolo: ‘here is the true governor Falier,’ or any other ‘rude exclamations’ (villania). Gudumini denied hearing such words, although he added that he could not understand French or Greek, the languages spoken by those in the crowd. Whether the entourage followed the impostor because they misidentified him as the governor, or whether they were co-conspirators in the masquerade was never determined and the case was closed. Either way, it was the alleged complicity of the vice-governor and soldiers and the symbolic affront to the Venetian state that was at stake, to which the secrecy and a final letter to the doge may attest. Following the investigation, Semitecolo wrote to the doge ‘to justify his actions, having been moved by his zeal for public dignity.’ He defended his assertion that ‘the peasant knew the truth,’ and worse, that ‘the boor masqueraded in the Romana of red silk and Magis-

trate’s hat by order of the Illustrious Bartolomeo Pesaro, now Vicegovernor [and] in public places this peasant impersonated the [llustrious Falier, the Governor of Retimo: a display of derision and mockery, that showed the Illustrious Vice-governor’s lack of respect.’!” The councillor’s concern highlights the anxiety caused when there is

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a disjunction between costumes and the bodies that wear them, a gap between the performative function of clothes and the performance. Under normal conditions, the Romana had a constitutive function; by dressing in the red robes of a governor, the wearer was transformed into a representative of the government in the same way that performatives, such as ‘I pronounce you’ or ‘I invest you,’ change a person from one state into another.'* The structure in which performatives operate remains relatively stable because the conditions within which the words are stated are highly codified and conventionalized, and maintained by the ideological and legal armature within which they operate. The costume represents that institutional power, which is only personified by the governor, magistrate, or priest. In Venice, this authority could be turned upside down and mocked during carnival, but when Cudumini donned the red cloak in the colony of Crete, neither the symbolic order in which it functioned nor the conditions for inverting this order were in place. Although the investigators did question the impostor’s complicity in the performance, it was the soldiers’ participation in the masquerade that was significant. Repeatedly witnesses were asked if they heard the words ‘here is the governor Falier,’ or ‘here is the real governor,’ as if Falier were himself the impostor. These words recall the labels

in the costume books, but in this case, although they identify the symbolic function of the costume, they also point to its failure. Cudumini’s masquerade — whether intentional or not, and whether recognized as a travestimento by the crowd — failed, according to the councillor, because he was an illiterate peasant: ‘with an aquiline nose, marked with a black scar on the left and another in the middle of this nose that crosses to the right; he looks to be fifty-six although he says he

is sixty; he is crudely dressed with pants of rough white fabric, a shirt with no jacket and a black Dalmatian cap with boots of black leather.’'**

He might have appeared to be the governor, his clothes fitting into the symbolic system, but it was his body — the scars, wrinkles, and facial fea-

tures — that did not fit, revealing a symptom of the ‘real,’ what Slavoj Zizek describes as the ‘relation between symbolic identification and the leftover, the remainder, the object-excrement that escapes it.’!* This lack of fit between the governor’s clothes and the peasant’s body, and the alleged accompanying mockery, point to ideology’s unwritten rules. Judicial procedures, sumptuary legislation, and registration were intended to clarify identities, but these institutions also depended upon the mechanisms that potentially subverted their meaning: the exchange of clothes, cross-dressing, disguise, and the temporal fluctuations and

Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 127

ambiguities of fashion. Courtesans who dressed as noble women, Jewish

merchants who changed their hats, and the visitors who dressed as Turks, undermined stability, yet these transgressions also enabled the state to display its control over identities. By contrast, secrecy in the travestimento investigation suggests the masquerade was more subversive

because it revealed the danger of making the unwritten rules public; by undermining the authority of costume, the charade threatened Venetian control in the colony. In this case, the threat of the performance lay in potentially exposing the clothes for all that they were: the material remainder of their symbolic function.'*° Incorporating the Body

The cases discussed above highlight the gaps between the symbolic meanings invested in costume and the bodies that wear them. These were precisely the openings that sumptuary and registration legislation attempted to sew up, the lack of fit that the iterative work of regulating identities sought to conceal. Clothes signified through social exchanges

the space between the performance and the expectations of the audience, between how the viewer styled himself or herself and what was per-

ceived as innate. This final section turns to the effects of printed costume imagery on the body. By considering the ways in which clothing mediated between visual images and the body, I propose that the formation of identities increasingly depended upon the skin’s function as a threshold between the body and the images through which the self was constituted. Earlier in this chapter I suggested that the pictorial conventions of costume illustrations — graphic clarity, emphasis on contours, isolation of the figures from a specific context, copying of models, and the reproductive mode of production — reduced a plethora of differences into recognizable types that would have encouraged a range of individuals to identify with the same image. In so doing, costume illustrations located

identity in the representation, in the identical image that circulated through print. I have also posited that this process would have altered the ways in which identities accrued to individuals. On one level, the conventions encouraged viewers to compare their costumes with those of others, thereby cementing civic and geographical associations. In contrast to long-standing familial and corporate affiliations, viewers were prompted to find their place within a world now catalogued by

dress. On another level, as proposed in this last section, learning to

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compare pictures of costumes must have drawn attention to the effects of viewers’ own clothes. Costume may thereby have come to function more forcefully as a threshold between individuals and their social experiences. As emblems of moral and social types, the costume illustrations circulated images of ideals. The upright poses in the prints — generic and repetitive — would have furnished viewers with unified body images, ‘stabilizing images’ that would have called attention to their own posture.'*/ Recognizing the distinctive silhouette of the figures would have further sharpened viewers’ awareness of their own corporeal boundaries, a scenario that recalls Jacques Lacan’s infant who identifies with the contours of the gesticulating body in the mirror.’** In contrast to the infant, who

mistakes its image for itself, the small-scale figures in the prints are exemplars. As models, they would have facilitated the identification of many individuals with the same image, a process encouraged by the labels that interpolate the viewer as a member of a group, as a senator, nobleman, religious, or matron.'*” If identity with one’s family, parish, confraternity, and guild was characteristic of late medieval identity, the labels in costume books construct a cast of social roles in which the cate-

gories have shifted from the local contrada or parish, to the city as a whole. Profession, gender, and ethnicity have moved into the foreground. Abraham de Bruyn’s ltalian Senators and Officials, for example,

display the subtle variations seen in the collective pattern of their uniforms (fig. 31). These sartorial signatures are what distinguish a people from other regions, and in the context of de Bruyn’s atlas of vestments, printed costume books participated in constructing something resembling a new global order.

The costume illustrators circumnavigated bodies, displaying them from all sides for an observer who is often acknowledged by the gaze (or a veil in response to the gaze) of the figure in the print (figs. 28, 43, 44,

47). The absence of any narrative setting emphasizes this exchange between seeing and being seen, thereby drawing the attention of viewers to their own postural image, to the fact that the sensate body, in Lacan’s words, is ‘looked at from all sides.’!°° As we have seen, this mode

of representation parallels contemporary scientific illustration; here, the depiction of the posterior view — with the characteristic ‘tail-like appendage’ — would have reminded viewers that they too were zn the picture (fig. 47). These new experiences must have altered the ways in which individuals saw themselves by aligning the single point from which a person sees, with the place ‘from which the subject will see him-

Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 129

self ... as others see him.’'°' Identified by the image, viewers would have become both the viewing subject and the object. And yet, if the representational conventions support identification of individuals with the civic community, concerns with legislating identities in Venice make it clear that the system was not seamless. In this case,

Lacan’s theory of the screen is suggestive, understood here as that threshold through which the subject negotiates its place within the social order: what the subject ‘gives of himself, or receives from the other, something that is like a mask, a double, an envelope, a thrown-off skin.’’°? All of these analogies stress identification with something external to the subject’s own body since the subject mistakenly identifies itself

with the contours of the figure in the mirror or the image. Because of the misalignment between the subject and the ideal reflection, this exchange is analogous to a garment that is continuously being adjusted to fit.’°? The fit between the costume and the wearer — the extent to which the social type in the prints and the viewer’s experience of his or her own body converged — would have been measured by social exchanges, the ‘symbolic ratification’ needed to acquire an image as a part of the subject’s identity.'°* Significantly, the transformative impact of this exchange would have depended upon the novelty of the repeated experience of looking at images in tandem with the didactic effect of the visual conventions. Lacan stresses the infant’s misidentification with the specular image, a projection of the self into the social order that is facilitated by the presence of the mother, who legitimates the infant’s acquisition of the image as a part of its identity; the mother also holds the infant, ‘supportl[ing] the perspective chosen by the subject in the field of the Other.’!”? This symbolic figure is intriguing in relation to the costume books, since the images seen in the prints addressed both the viewer's visual and sensate

perceptions. The label might have ratified the viewer’s identification with the external image, which may in turn have called attention to the materiality of the viewer’s own costume, the extent to which it constrains, shields, or exposes the body. However, in contrast to Lacan’s ‘other who emerges at the expense of the self,’ the sheer novelty and accessibility of these prints, and the process of learning to compare oneself with others, would surely have intensified viewers’ experiences of their own clothes.

The generic figures in the prints can be understood as ideal images, but their constitutive effects — the extent to which they would have shaped identities — would also have depended upon the materiality of

130 The World in Venice

costume. Costume illustrations invested moral values, ideality, and social

roles in the clothing that surrounded the body. But on the body, costume is more than a frame; instead, clothing is the mediating surface through which the bodily and fragmented ego is integrated with the representations that sustain it.!°° The body, through its interaction with other objects, is continually constituted through touch, a model that accounts for the ego’s sense of ‘both “sameness” and “otherness.”’!°’ The former, defined by Silverman as proprioceptivity, can best be understood as the ego component to which concepts like ‘here,’ ‘there,’ and ‘my’ are keyed ... muscles which effect the shifting of the body and its members in space ... proprioceptivity would seem to be

intimately bound up with the body’s sensation of occupying a point in space, and with the terms under which it does so. It thus involves a nonvisual mapping of the body’s form.’°®

The weight of the body in space and the experience of its surface are organized by imaginary and material representations — images and clothing — that support, orient, and individuate it. Where Lacan stresses the container at the expense of the body — the subject’s misidentification of its self with the unified body in the image — Didier Anzieu’s account of the skin ego develops the inverse relation. The skin is the threshold between individuals and their social and psychic experiences, the boundary between the self and others, and a ‘site of interaction with others.’!°? The skin, as a ‘mirror of reality,’ protects

and relays the experience of the world that is in turn expressed on it, and through it, as for example, scars, wrinkles, and clothing — haunted by the traces of the wearer — enable individuals to be identified.'°? For Anzieu, individuation — the development of the ego and consciousness — occurs through tactile sensations. By touching oneself — an effect felt

through dress — the subject experiences itself as both subject and object, the double sensation of the ego as both ‘I’ and ‘self.’’®’ Exerting

pressure on the skin, moreover, clothing sustains the subject’s selfsensation, distinguishing the wearer from recognizing himself or herself merely ‘as a member of the species.’'°* This impression of being in one’s body provides what the externality of the mirror image cannot:

‘the apprehension on the part of the subject of his or her “ownness.”’'°* The subject’s identity, then, following Anzieu, is managed by

imaginary and material representations, by the overlapping effects of

Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies 131

ideals that circulate in images and the physical limitations imposed on the body by clothes. In contrast with Lacan’s Gestalt body image — that moment in the mirror stage when the subject sees itself prior to its symbolic structuration —

Anzieu, Silverman, and others emphasize the subject’s ‘perception of the boundaries of the body.’'®* Here, the emphasis is on the relation between the stabilizing representations seen by the subject and those fragmented images of bodily experience which are shaped by ‘the interests others take in the different parts of our body,’ interests that are shaped by ‘social exchange.’'®’ Clearly, these were the kinds of investments in the body that were prompted by costume illustrations. As the interface between an individual’s tactile experiences and the social roles seen in the prints, clothing may have come to reinforce the limits of the subject’s own body. By enveloping the body as a second skin, costume takes on this boundary function, either securing or revealing areas of the body, an attachment to the skin through which clothes can acquire denotative meanings, such as those signified by gloves or shoes.'°° Costume not only changes the appearance of a body’s shape, it also extends the wearer’s experience, as for example, the famous platform shoes worn by Venetian women would have altered their visual and physical access to the world. Costume also envelops the body as a second skin, thereby individuating the subject. If Venetians increasingly came to see themselves as they were seen by others — a historical process encouraged by print, as I have

been positing — the interest among Venetian women in changing the contours of their bodies offers some material evidence. Fashions in the latter decades of the century required women to negotiate the pavement in remarkably high shoes; they revealed their breasts, covered their faces, padded their bodies, wore men’s pants beneath their skirts, and bound their dyed blond hair into vertical spirals. As the traveller Fynes Moryson exclaimed, “The women of Venice weare choppines or shoos three or foure hand-bredths high ... shew their naked necks and breasts, and likewise their dugges, bound up and swelling with linnen, and all made white by art ... their haire is commonly yellow, made so by the Sunne and art, and they raise up their haire on the forehead in two knotted hornes ... And they cast a black vaile from the head to the shoulders, through which the nakednesse of their shoulders, and neckes, and breasts, may easily be scene. For this attire the women of Venice are pro-

verbially said to be Grande di legni, Grosse di straci, rosse di bettito,

132 The World in Venice

bianche di calcina: that is tall with wood, fat with ragges, red with painting, and white with chalke.’!®’ By the end of the sixteenth century, Vene-

tian women seem to have been intent on both transforming their silhouettes and making themselves more visible. Paradoxically, then, the very process of reducing singular differences

into types may have contributed to the subject’s emergent interiority, the fictive sense of individuality. On one level, the representational conventions facilitated identification with a particular group by showing people what constituted the difference. In turn the generic social types seen in the pictures could have had a prosthetic function, shoring up viewers’ bodily posture by calling attention to the material constraints of their own clothes and the boundaries of their own separate bodies.’ On another level, the experience of looking at costume illustrations, as if looking in a mirror, may have encouraged viewers to imagine themselves as images, an experience that would have overlapped with social exchanges. The materiality of costume, as a threshold between the self and the world — an experience magnified by these prints — may have fostered a new kind of subject, as both an object and an ‘I myself.’!™

The costume books, sumptuary laws, guidebooks, and chronicles reveal the potential for disorder and the threat of fashion. And yet, contemporary efforts to control clothes may also have furnished viewers with the means to manage their own identities, for by learning to see oneself as an image, Venetians were being instructed in the representational weight of their own bodies, gestures, and poses: their style. Vecel-

lio, de Bruyn, and Boissard, among others, show where bodies fit into the world by classifying their clothing, by rooting costume in space. But in practice, the viewers of these books had bodies, and it was in part the temporality of the body that destabilized the vestimentary system.

Chapter 3

Allegory, Order, and the Singular Event

A small perspective view of the entrance to Venice from the lagoon is juxtaposed with a personification of the city (fig. 48). A beautiful young woman, adorned with a crown and holding a sceptre, floats in a chariot drawn by a pair of splendid sea horses. “The beautiful persona of the queen of the Adriatic,’ as David Rosand has described the personification of Venice, ‘delighted the vision of foreign observers as a perpetual declaration of the extraordinary, visible proof of divine intervention in the political affairs of men.’' The allegorical vision in the foreground is identified by the sword and scales of justice that are carried by two winged cupids. The latter allude to Venus, whose famous beauty and miraculous birth from the sea was used to signify the cityscape.” The sceptre and crown symbolize the goddess of Rome and the Virgin Mary, who represent the city’s lineage to the ancient republic, divine origins, and immaculate state: ‘never conquered by any ruler,’ as Girolamo Priuli put it.’ Giacomo Franco’s small engraving, from his series of costumes, urban spaces, and rituals, Habiti degli huomeni e donne, thereby capitalizes on a range of associations invested in the allegorical concept of Venetia, whose beauty stands in, by metonymy, for the city’s dazzling architecture. As Franco explains in the caption: This is the most fecund of all homes Venice: and such that he who sees her marvels to see the world collected in this small space.”

The text recalls the image of Venice from the frontispiece of his book, where the city is transformed into a globe of the world (fig. 16). Introduced by this cosmological vision, Franco’s series evokes an atlas in which

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138 The World in Venice

These are ideas brought forward in prints generated by two unusual events: the battle of Lepanto in 1571 and the coronation of Dogaressa Morosina Morosini in 1597. At the beginning of the century, collective participation in ceremonies was a means of cohering civic identity, but toward the end of the century processions were drained of their local symbolic meanings and transformed into lavish displays, an overflow of

civic self-promotion choreographed for the eyes of prestigious foreigners.'” Prints widened the audience and extended the life of these otherwise ephemeral displays. For both the military contest and the dogaressa’s procession, printmakers developed modes of reportage to illustrate time and space.

In late medieval Venice, communal identity was forged through ceremonial events that brought together the city’s sacred and secular institutions.'' Parading through symbolically invested sites and routes constructed what Edward Muir has described as ‘an unusually vibrant and durable civic patriotism.’'* More than other centres, ceremony in Venice demonstrates continuity with medieval traditions, a process that was used to absorb individuality. By eschewing change, working to elimi-

nate festivities that threatened political stability, and bringing others under state control, the ceremonial occasion became institutionalized as a demonstration of the myth of consensus with individuals subsumed into their place within the rigid Venetian social hierarchy.'” Already, with the construction of the myth of Venice prompted by the league of Cambrai in 1509, the ducal procession came to be the mere performance of a text, the ‘repetition of the script formally actualized,’ as Matteo Casini describes it.'* In Venice, this structural consistency was

manifested in the ceremonial tomes in which the bare facts of events provided the ‘baseline’ against which future events were measured.’” It was changes to conventions that provoked commentary, even in familiar

rituals, and the extraordinary and the unusual that came to be reported. Marin Sanuto, for instance, documented copious details regarding participants in festivals, listing names, titles, and costumes, but his account of the events themselves attends to permutations in the order of processions.’° Rituals fulfilled diverse sacred and social functions that both provided a focus for and elicited the sentiments of viewers. Moreover, exchanges between viewers and participants were integral to the efficacy of the ceremonial event. For these reasons, rituals were often venues in which conflicts between social groups could be played out.!’ Ducal coronations, for

example, were events in which custom intersected with familial ambitions, and efforts to assuage the splendour prompted by the latter were

Allegory, Order, and the Singular Event 139

ongoing.’ By the second half of the century, ceremonies were increasingly a locus for contests between the city’s ruling oligarchs, and as aristocratic display intensified, communitas was drained from festivities.’ The

focus had shifted toward the framing of processions: the costumes, ephemeral architecture, chronicles, prints, and commemorative imagery. [his might be explained as an ‘urge to allegorize,’ a fundamentally political operation according to Fredric Jameson, which ‘comes less as a technique for closing the text off and for repressing alleatory or aberrant readings and senses, than as a mechanism for preparing such a text for further ideological investment.’*” The visit of Henry III in 1574 offers a

striking example of this process through the transformation of local Venetian festivities for a foreign audience.*’ For the king, who had participated in the Bartholomew massacres only two years earlier and who was returning to a country in civil war, travel through Italy was necessary to ensure his safe arrival in France. A lavish spectacle by the Venetians would signal their approval and thereby assist his political survival. For the Venetians, there was the advantage of reasserting their political interests with France.** For both parties it was publicity generated by the event, more than the festivities themselves, that was crucial: the dissem1ination of printed chronicles and images of Venetian homage to the new ruler.*’ As Egon Verheyen has noted, the speed with which printed pamphlets were translated from Italian into French and other languages for a wider European audience attests to this process of ‘image building.’~*

This process was also at work during the arrival of four Japanese youths in Europe in 1585, whose presence generated a flurry of printed chronicles, despite the relative lack of interest among Europeans, as I discuss in the following chapter. Newly converted to Christianity by the

Jesuits, the ambassadors proposed a visit to Venice to see the famous Corpus Christi festivities.*” Despite initial reluctance by the Venetians to host the embassy on account of the low social status of the Japanese, the government capitalized on the opportunity with unusally lavish festivities designed to counter the state’s own diminished significance on the world stage. Emptied of their local import, and transmuted into performances for a foreign audience, festivities became a means of projecting an image that disguised reality.

Printed pamphlets recounted the otherwise temporary architectural splendour and elaborate staging. If these printed chronicles and engravings had the effect of buttressing declining mercantile and military prestige, they failed to disguise what contemporaries saw as the relation between lavish festivities, increasing decadence, and distaste for commerce. In 1612 the English ambassador Sir Dudly Carleton reported on

140 The World in Venice

the manifest decay of Venice, ‘because they here change theyr manners, they are growne factious, vindicative, loose, and unthriftie,’ buying land and ‘giving themselves the goode time with more shew and gallantrie then was wont.’*° A growing preoccupation with private advancement meant that sons were being reared as gentlemen rather than merchants while soaring dowries effectively restricted marriage to a single daughter with the others ‘thrust ... into Convents.’?” Modern commentators have thereby stressed the correlation between displays of wealth on the one hand and political decadence on the other.*® This climate of dissemblance and aristocratic posturing encouraged the loss of patrimony and brought about a fractious and economically differentiated patriciate. If ‘the power of ritual,’ as Patricia Fortini Brown explains, ‘les in its

repetition, that power migrated from the procession into representations designed to forge an impression of the event in the minds of a broad audience.~ Already competition between rulers contributed to the elaboration of representations as fashionable spectacles, a practice fuelled by

the surge in printed chronicles, popular pamphlets, and engravings. ‘Reactivat|ing| the object reproduced,’ to adapt Walter Benjamin's concept, prints transformed the ephemeral into something material.°” Of interest here is how this reinvestment extended beyond the original event through a chain of visual representations. In contrast to chronicles,

which related the order and explained the meanings of processions to readers, visual representations distilled a range of embodied experiences into a single perspective. The medium itself — widely disseminated, iterative, conventionalizing — would have contributed to this process. Vene-

tians, as viewers inhabiting those spaces, may in turn have come to imagine themselves more distinctly within the visual field of others. Some time ago the Venetian historian Sergio Bettini pointed to the crux of the matter when he stated, “The ceremonies, the liturgies, the commemorative feasts represent the necessity of a people to identify entirely with an

image in order to be transformed from the inert subject of history into the actor of history: in dramatis persona.’”' If print encouraged Venetians to see themselves as they were seen by others, this process may also have transformed those subjects into agents. Venice and Mars: Representing Vision and History in the Battle of Lepanto

On 9 September 1570, the Venetian-controlled city of Nicosia on the coast of Cyprus fell to the Ottoman Empire.** Following a protracted

Allegory, Order, and the Singular Event 141

siege of the inland city of Famagousta, the Venetians surrendered. During the subsequent martyrdom, recounted by a chronicler who was close at hand (and whose retelling was serialized in popular pamphlets), the Venetian officials were dismembered, and the governor, Marcantonio Bragadin, flayed alive, his skin stuffed with straw and raised on a mast as an effigy of the Venetian loss.** The illustrator for an anonymous pam-

phlet responded to the event with a picture of retributive justice (fig. 83).°* The fleshy, undefined, but sumptuously decorated body of the sultan Selim is about to be snared by Charon for his attack of Cyprus. ‘To

the right, the heroic nude body impaled on a stake, with its allusions to the crucified body of Christ, transforms the Venetian governor into a new Christian martyr for a revived crusade against the Turkish infidel. I use the story of Bragadin here in order to highlight the charged resonance of the surface of the body and its uses in the construction of the opposition Venetian/ Turk. The physical proximity of the Ottomans provoked Venetians to re-imagine them: to construct an image of the Turk that rendered the empire more distant. The complex system of popular, elite, and official representations produced in Venice around the war reveals anxieties about spiritual and masculine identity. Confronted by the spectre of war, and pressed into action by the crusading fervour of Pius V and his war against heresy, the Venetians eventually joined the Holy League with the papal fleet and the forces of the Holy Roman Empire to defeat the Ottomans at the battle of Lepanto. For Venetians, whose territorial dominance in the Adriatic had been eroded by the Turks since the end of the fifteenth century,” the unexpected victory was a moment of rejuvenated pride. The sheer volume of pamphlets and popular prints generated by the event appears today to be completely out of proportion with what was the proverbial political reality: the Turks had severed a limb, but Venice had ‘only shaved the beard of the Sultan.’”° Despite the facts of war for Venice — the loss of Cyprus, the massive

toll of lives, and financial reparations paid to the Ottoman Porte (court/government) for the peace of 1573 — the short-lived victory was projected into the public consciousness for decades after.°’ Printmakers capitalized on widespread interest in the war, producing over 200 pamphlets with poems, sonnets, dialogues, and songs in Latin, the vernacular, and a variety of dialects.’® Allegories, portraits, and depictions of the battle were among the visual expressions that could be seen in diverse

formats and locales.*” Prints could be purchased from printsellers in the streets for news and as souvenirs; allegories were constructed as

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tableaux vivants in processions; paintings were displayed in the streets during carnival; and portraits of patrician men in armour were commissioned for patrician homes and the official spaces of government. More than twenty single-sheet bird’s-eye views of the battle were produced, in which printmakers reconstructed specific details as if sketched during the contest itself. Correspondence between Giorgio Vasari and Cosimo Bartoli indicates that printed views were used by artists to depict the battle in paintings.*” However, the prints also shed light on other forms of visual imagery. The pictorial strategies — perspectival and cartographic —

deployed in the engravings provide some clues about a broader rearticulation of the relation between the individual male subject and collective identity. Perceptions of the Turks

Despite the Venetian community in Constantinople, and the presence of subjects of the Porte in Venice, infrequent travel perpetuated the longstanding negative view of Turkish culture. Venetian humanists learned

Greek and Arabic, but there was little interest in Turkish, a language associated with a culture of ‘barbari’ in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.*' With Venetians’ scant knowledge of the language, experience of

Turkish culture was vicarious and filtered through diplomatic reports, histories, and printed imagery of their costumes and customs that were beginning to appear in travel narratives and costume books. In Constantinople, merchants and even the bazlo often depended on interpreters, sometimes Greek speakers, or youths who learned the language for trade.** News of these youths converting to Islam provoked calls for surveillance by anxious Venetian families.*? At the same time, men were

abandoning the Venetian territories, as the bazlo’s secretary wrote in 1562, ‘in order to earn in four months on the galleys of the Grand Turc what they earn in an entire year on the galleys of your Lordship.’** Sen-

ate deliberations over allegiances, in particular in the territories, were

punctuated by cases of ‘abjuration,’ ‘flight,’ ‘denial of faith,’ and ‘betrayal.’*? The apparent ease with which religious identities could be adopted — a concern magnified by the work of the Council of ‘Trent and the Venetian Inquisition — fomented spiritual anxiety.*° The military and political machine of the Ottoman Empire had generated admiration and emulation among European rulers.‘’ Of particu-

lar interest to the Venetians was the elevation of Islamic law as an Instrumentum regni, the carta segreta of their imperial success, as the

Allegory, Order, and the Singular Event 143

ambassador Matteo Zane put it, the means ‘to deceive many particularly foolish people.’** This syncretic aspect of Ottoman rule functioned as a means to garner popular support and to galvanize the troops, who saw

their territorial expansion as a gazd or religious war.” For Venetians, their own shrinking imperial landscape furnished evidence of Turkish military prowess; in 1516 the loss of a ship had provoked Girolamo Priuli to assert ‘the Turks are valiant men and the Christians are whores.’”” But more typically, as Paolo Preto explains, the Venetian ambassadors propagated a less positive image, citing ‘the discontent of the subjects, internal divisions, avarice, effeminacy, corruption in private and public life.”°’ After the war, although the Turkish fleet was fully restored in 1573, Marce’Antonio Barbaro related that the empire was ‘in large part weak, uninhabited, and ruined’ and its soldiers exhausted from an ‘odious and spoiled life.’”? These kinds of aspersions were pressed into service by popular poets in the prophetic literature that exploded around the contest. There was a striking correspondence between religious hatred and political language. Religious antagonism was fuelled by diplomats, who turned their attention to exterior manifestations of the Muslim faith, in particular the contradiction perceived between private religiosity and _ visible expressions of piety. A popular insult, for instance, was that one ‘swears, drinks and smokes like a Turk,’ all practices forbidden by Islamic law.°° Observance of restrictions against wine, gaming, blasphemy, respect for religious sites, and individual charity were cited as displays of dissimulation that concealed the facts of practice — that Turks were believed to drink wine, to gamble, to curse — and thus intensified the scandal.

The emperor Selim became emblematic of this new stereotype. Where Francesco Sansovino wrote with admiration for the sultans and Suleyman in particular, the author attacked Selim. The latter was ‘all given to voluptuousness, corruptor of his laws, without faith, and one

who does not keep his word.”* Contrasting his dissoluteness to his exemplary father, Sansovino questioned Selim’s patriline, asserting that he was the illegitimate son of a Hebrew friend, planted by Suleyman’s Hebrew mistress. Selim appears again in Sansovino’s /nformatione, an illustrated tract addressed to Christian soldiers in 1570. Below a generic costume figure titled King of the Turks, he asks his readers: ‘Encountering such alterity, such pompousness, such major haughtiness, how can

one represent this Turk to our eyes?” With the renewed threat at Cyprus, Sansovino pressed the Venetian senate to move against the Ottoman Turks in a ‘just’ war whose successful outcome had been

144 The World in Venice

widely prophesied and enjoyed enthusiastic public support.°° The author’s more characteristic admiration for Ottoman military virtu was superseded by a pointed religious rhetoric.” ’ Sansovino illustrated the text with woodcuts of Ottoman military men to show his readers that the Turks were made ‘of bones and flesh like you’ (fig. 51).°° On the one hand, the figures set forth physical commonality, while on the other hand, the Ottomans’ costumes appeared ‘strange’ — a perception encouraged by the text — and provided Venetians with visual indicators of the ‘evil and bestial’ natures of their adversaries.

Sansovino assured his readers of the veracity of the images by maintaining these were drawn from life. In fact, these woodcuts were copied after engravings that circulated in a costume book, Les quatre premiers livres des navigations et pérégrinations orientales, discussed in the previous

chapter (fig. 52). Following his extensive travels throughout the Ottoman Empire, Nicholas de Nicolay, the French royal geographer, compiled this collection of sixty figures of men and women from a variety of ethnic groups, whose customs are described in the accompanying texts. For Sansovino, however, it was the absence of a European class system

that fuelled his diatribe, as his description of the Azamoglan makes clear: ‘uncouth and boors, they are for the most part wicked and bestial, and ordinarily hate Christians to death to whom they cause every sorrow and insult; but the amazing thing is that they do not acknowledge either

father or mother, like true barbarians and peasants.” He warns his readers that the Turk ‘would murder the nobles.’*’ Although a monarchy, the Ottoman Empire was closed to the privileges familiar to European aristocrats. Ottoman subjects were slaves to the sultan, an aspect that provoked Venetians to parallel the Ottoman Empire with ancient Rome, and to contrast the general slavery of the people with the exclusive ruling class that formed the basis of Venice’s mixed form of government. In radical opposition to Venice's castelike social structure with its privileges based in genealogy, all male subjects could aspire to the position of sultan. Social equality facilitated the Porte’s geographical expansion in feudal lands, and for those who converted to Islam, Ottoman meritocracy offered social mobility.°' In contrast to the sultan, whose position reflected his military sagacity and political shrewdness, the Venetian doge was a figurehead — usually elderly — elected by his peers

for his equanimity instead of his ambition. This difference at the top of the two systems was complicated further by the republic’s efforts to shore up its image on an international stage dominated by princes and

Allegory, Order, and the Singular Event 145

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146 The World in Venice *

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Allegory, Order, and the Singular Event 147

monarchs, a concern highlighted in the grand ducal promotion of Cosimo de’Medici in 1569.°* Within Venice the growing wealth of the citizen class had begun to rival the status of the patricians. Sansovino’s pamphlet reveals his admiration for the martial prowess of the Turks; however, an Ottoman victory at Cyprus threatened the loss of property, and more significantly, the Venetian ruling structure. The

Turks’ rejection of blood descent and the equality given to children regardless of birth undermined the very foundations of the oligarchs, whose exclusive authority was legitimated by noble ancestry.®’ If the woodcuts helped to foment both military fervour and popular aggression, the tension between sameness and difference expresses a contradiction felt by the Venetians in the face of the Turks, who were too familiar to be made exotic.™

Confronting the Turk

Despite the threat to Venetian possessions in the Stato da Mar exposed by the siege at Cyprus, the state resisted joining military forces with the Holy League. War threatened economic ties with the Porte, a concern that prompted secret negotiations with the Ottomans and even an offer to abandon the League after it was signed.” Pressure from the pope had forced Venice to join the League, which was concluded on 20 May, proclaimed at St Peter’s on the twenty-fifth, and celebrated with a mass at the Church of San Marco and the Corpus Christi procession.” At home, the event was designed to garner popular support and spiritual assistance. All the Scuole Grandi, monks, priests, ambassadors, and senators

left the church and entered the cortile of the Palazzo Ducale before beginning to traverse the piazza. Following the announcement to a silent crowd, a cacophony of instruments, artillery, and bells began to sound, the latter continuing for three days.°’ To its foreign allies, the

procession projected an image of solidarity. Giacomo Franco’s well-known engraving of the parade illustrates the apparati (displays) carried by men on which various tableaux vivants demonstrated a united front against the Turk (fig. 53).°° According to a

printed pamphlet that describes the procession, the floats began with the Gran Turco, in which three youths dressed as Saints Peter, James, and Mark — the papacy, Spain, and Venice — launched a collective assault on a dragon with their swords. Another float presented personifications of Faith, Hope, and Charity to symbolize the signatories of the League, the

former holding a globe to signify a universal Christian world. Prophe-

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Figure 53. Giacomo Franco, Processione generale falta in Vinegia alla publicacione della lega. Lianno M.D. LXXI, Venice. Engrav-

ing [photo: Newberry Library, Chicago]

Allegory, Order, and the Singular Event 149

cies in anticipation of the war had augured for the mass conversion of

the Turks and the end of Mohammedanism; contemporary rhetoric referred to a ‘just war’ on the grounds of exactly this claim.” Another tableau repeated the theme of the Holy League with three youths wearing painted masks impersonating the pope, doge, and emperor. Venice was also personified, but associations with the female body of Venus were temporarily abandoned; instead the city was represented by Neptune, who stood triumphantly on a half-shell harnessed to a pair of seahorses. The last of the floats, according to the pamphlet, conveyed ‘a bark rowed by a naked moor with wings and horns to signify Charon carrying off a Turk.’’° Franco altered the order for his engraving, locating this Dantean scene front and centre instead. The tableaux in the procession played out the city’s collective fears by

embodying them. Indeed, dozens of printed pamphlets have been described as an ‘antidote’ to a demoralized public, a kind of collective illusion that united the classes and was driven by an ‘aggressive proselytism’ fired with the ‘spirit of the crusades.’’’ The procession would have mobilized popular support through its presentation of a refracted image of reality. Idealized and ephemeral, ceremonial events intensified the sensate experiences of viewers. Participants in processions would carry tableaux vivants on which actors appeared frozen like sculptures.

When the parade stopped, the actors would begin to move, at which point participants became members of the audience. In turn, spectators in the piazza and balconies could be viewed by those moving in the cortege. In this way spectacles co-opted viewers, providing the means to physically structure the relationship between an audience and a performance. Franco’s engraving of the Holy League suggests this reciprocal involvement of the ritual event, as densely packed swaths of observers are woven together as if integrated elements of the same procession, a concept of collectivity underscored by the presence of a few individuals scattered among the crowds. Seen from a vantage point on the facade of S Geminiano (no longer extant), the print provides a bird’s-eye view of the parade as a whole with details of the floats in the foreground.

The solemnity characterizing the account of the publication of the League in the ceremonial register contrasts dramatically with the triumphant news of the victory.” On 19 October, Venetians heard a cacophony of gunfire, musical instruments, and cheers from the arriving fleet. A first glance sparked fear among the spectators, for the ships were

adorned with Turkish spoils and arms, and the men aboard were dressed as Turks. However, the disguise only added to the pleasure of

150 The World in Venice

the surprise, as many fell to the ground and cried in happiness. Stepping into the costumes of their adversaries, the Venetians seem to have signalled their triumph over the image of the enemy. The destabilizing effect of repeated threats of war after Malta in 1565, combined with the surprising victory — made larger in view of the risks — lifted the inferiority complex of Venetians.’* As John Hale put it, ‘if the sense of relief was exaggerated it was because the Venetians felt them-

selves to be freed from a neurosis as well as from an enemy.’’* The catharsis, fuelled by an explosion of representations, was a catalyst for redefining the fiction of republican thought. This tradition was built upon a gendered construction of historical causation: the republic survived by relying on the vertu of its citizens, and virtu was a decidedly mas-

culine conception. The battle served to refocus attention on republican male identity in general, and patrician men in particular. Republican identity could be represented by Venice personified as a woman. In theory, a male viewer does not identify with the female body; this distance enables the personification to embody an abstract concept, which thereby directs the viewer’s imagination toward an idea that cannot easily be represented.” For example, in Palma Giovane’s Allegory of the League of Cambrai, painted for the Sala del Senato, Venice with her rampant lion staves off the onslaught of her adversary personified as Europa with her bull (fig. 54) © The female figures stand in for the collective work of war, their bodies decorated with the accoutrements of male authority, as Leonardo Loredan, the reigning doge, oversees the contest.”/ Depicting the battle of Lepanto, however, prompted different representational strategies, as suggested by the tableaux vivants seen in the procession. In Paolo Veronese’s Allegory of the Battle of Lepanto, for

example, the Virgin, surrounded by saints and angels, hovers close to the picture plane above a view of the war painted in perspective with a distant horizon line (fig. 55).’° In contrast to the fading daylight visible in the distance of the gulf, the luminescence in the upper register is spiritual instead of physical, omnipresent instead of temporal. Promontories on either side define the geographical specificity of the engagement below the ethereal vision, whose divine intervention is signalled by the flaming arrows of an angel that conjoins the scenes. Veronese reconstructs the event using two distinctive visual registers: the allegorical and the historical.

This pictorial strategy can be traced to printed bird’s-eye views that offered viewers a ‘true representation’ of the battle, an assertion bolstered by claims to cartographical accuracy and the timeliness of print

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152. The World in Venice

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ee BAL RR = Lig Responding to these concerns, Venier addressed the troops before they sailed into battle. He did not preach a new crusade; instead, he reiterated the ideas propagated by Francesco Sansovino, noted earlier. ‘I will show them,’ warned Venier, in what danger they will find themselves, and what will be needed, that we

will put all our force in order to defend our wives, children, and goods from an enemy that admits neither counts, nor knights, nor gentlemen, but only merchants, and people |popoli| who follow the court to make good points: [the enemy] admits boors, that work the earth, taking from one and the other, goods and children, and shaming the women according their appetite.”

An Ottoman victory threatened property but, more significantly, undermined the very foundations of the oligarchs: their lineage. The apparent ease of adopting another identity that the confrontation brought to the fore — registered on the surface of body by costume or by religious conversion — was the opposite of Venetian blood identity. The obliviousness of the Ottomans to blood lineage was especially offensive because it

failed to create a connection between the ruling nobles and the people,

Gasparo Contarini’s vision of political life: the ‘intelligent minority against the ignorant crowd.’!”? Venier’s disdain for the popolani and mercantilism — traditions of Venetian republicanism — also parallels Paolo Paruta’s ruling-class mentality: his conviction that the nobility was none other than ‘a virtue of the greater.’!"!

Like many of Venier’s portraits — the large number is surprising in the context of Venetian mediocritas (moderation) — Giacomo Franco’s printed likeness brings the ideas discussed above into sharper focus (fig. 60). The portrait was sometimes included, as was Franco’s map of the battle, in his series of engraved costumes and rituals. Significantly, this is the only portrait of an individual — identified by name and likeness — that Franco incorporated.'”* Despite the advanced years of the sitter, he

is depicted upright and potent, his body buttressed by the carapace of armour that sheathes it. Venier holds the commander’s baton and he is placed to the left of a window, perhaps following Tintoretto’s half-length portrait now in Vienna.’”” In both the painting and Franco’s engraving, the conventional function of the landscape seen through a window has been given a double function. On one level this representation of war as

162: ¥The 4,-World 28 Viinpal Venice om

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: 2 Detail, Andrea Vicentino, Disembarkation of the Morosi Figure 62 etail, Andrea Vicentino, Disembarkation of Dogaressa the Dogaressa Morosina

A al J . YY . . - . i li od = | a 4 .

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Morosini Grimani from the Bucintoro and Her Progress toward the Trium-

phal Arch, c.1597, Venice, Museo Correr. Oil on canvas [photo:

fMuseo mMCorrer |

168 The World in Venice

sion itself, in particular how the chroniclers reported on the women and their costumes. The Bucintoro, filled with women for this rare pageant, was accompanied by a plethora of allegorical macchine in a procession along the Grand Canal toward Piazza San Marco, where a canvas and

stucco triumphal arch was erected at the end of a temporary wooden bridge. Descending from the state ship, the doge’s wife and her cortege entered the city through the arch emblazoned with inscriptions and sculptures that celebrated Morosina Morosini on the lagoon side and her husband on the other with heraldry that equated Venetian prosperity with his wise stewardship. Decorated with painted landscapes of Venice’s empire and insignia that proclaimed the nobility of the two families, the arch presented an iconographic program of almost dynastic propor-

tions.''® Indeed, the dogaressa’s extraordinary regal presence in the numerous history paintings and engravings seems more closely aligned to court ritual than republican ideology, a suggestion to which her attendant dwarfs, depicted in Vicentino’s painting, contribute (fig. 62)."'” Three days of festivities included regatte and war games. Mock naval contests were staged between the Dutch and the English, and the popu-

lar ‘wars of the fists’ (pugnz) were transformed into formal performances with the Nicolotti and Castellani factions fighting on the Ponte dei Carmini, according to a chronicler, ‘with grand decorations, dressed

in various uniforms and liveries ... to the sound of trumpets and drums.’!*° The dogaressa’s approach to the city from the sea, the triumphal arch that dramatized her arrival, and the staging of martial battles presented the entry as if Morosina were a visiting foreign — even royal — dignitary. Contributing further to the courtly atmosphere were a variety of panegyrics, at least one of which described the couple as divinities. '*! This was the first insediamento for which such encomia were commissioned, a development far from the moderation sought by the senators, who would abolish the procession at the next occasion in 1645.'** It was precisely this kind of monarchical posturing that the protocols for the coronation had been designed — in characteristic Venetian fashion — to guard against. If a new doge’s wife was still living, she moved into

the Palazzo Ducale with her family until his death, when her public persona was terminated. Her move to the palace was celebrated a year after her husband’s election in order to mitigate familial aggrandizement and royal associations that a joint coronation had the potential to facilitate. The restrictions imposed on the doge’s family in the promissione ducale were ceremoniously presented to the dogaressa at the family house by

Allegory, Order, and the Singular Event 169

officials at the commencement of the procession. Following the oathtaking at her family palace, the dogaressa departed for her new residence in the Palazzo Ducale. Later, at the high altar of San Marco, she swore to obey this list of limitations that underlined her status as a figurehead.'*° In contrast with the routinely circumscribed role of the doge, however, the rarity of this unusual event magnified its significance.'** Sumptuary laws were not suspended as they usually were for visits by foreign dignitaries and as they had been for the entry of Henry III.!*° Nevertheless, in spite of attempts to constrain extravagances, the program managed to exceed all precedents. The impression created by the spectacle was one of sumptuous luxury ‘never seen before,’ a claim writers rarely failed to make.'*° If restraint promised republican sobriety,

the exemption of the dogaressa and her family from luxury laws enabled them to shine more brightly among the cortege and the crowd of spectators. !7/

The dogaressa was preceded by what seemed to one commentator to be more than 200 young women dressed in white with feather fans and

elaborate pearl necklaces.'** She was followed by married women, dressed, as Giovanni Stringa put it, “not of white, but of another colour like green, dry rose, and deep purple, according to what suited their age.’'*” The piazza was embellished by patrician women, who received bouquets from twelve men who were sombrely dressed in black silk.'”° The chroniclers’ detailed reports of the costumes of the women replhicate the obsessions of sumptuary legislators. The women, supported by youths dressed as foreigners, undulated on high zoccolz (wooden plat-

form shoes) that transformed the women, as contemporaries complained, into gigantesse.'°' The decorated bodies of the ‘bel sesso’ were employed as scenic backdrops for the ‘austero Senato,’ the grave male representatives of the state, while the physical beauty of the women, and their jewellery enunciated, by metonymy, the city’s landscape and financial wealth.'** The visual representations, with women filling the surrounding balconies, emphasize the decorative function of the women as ‘mirrors of so many precious stones.'°° Indeed, it is this impression that characterizes Vicentino’s painting.

Neither patron nor details of the commission for the painting are known. Although Marin Grimani recorded payments to artists, no document has been found pertaining to Vicentino’s Embarkation. Nevertheless, it seems likely, given the personal significance and Marin Grimani’s familiarity with Vicentino’s work, that he and his wife — by then resident

170 The World in Venice

in the Palazzo Ducale —- were behind the project. Grimani’s extensive patronage included commissions for numerous portraits of himself and his wife, and the canvas similarly commemorates the role of specific individuals in the procession.'** The canvas was likely inspired by Vicentino’s recreation of The Meeting of Henry I at the Lido in 1593, which it

emulates closely in scale and composition, as can be seen in an engraving produced soon after the work was completed (fig. 63). Michel Hochmann has suggested that Marin Grimani was probably instrumental in the planning of the redecoration of the Sala delle Quattro Porte, where the Meeting is displayed.'* Even if he were not directly responsible, Grimani would have known the artists employed there since he commissioned subsequent work from them.’”° Although there are significant differences between the architecture in the Embarkation and the Meeting, the proscenium organization is remarkably similar (compare figs. 61 and 63). Floating vessels fill the foreground, and a wooden bridge to the centre left leads the observer from the Bucintoro on the left toward the temporary architectural structures. Even the scale and details of the triumphal arches — engaged columns, broken entablature, and attic story — resemble each other. Vicentino focuses on the arrival of the protago-

nist on the bridge, thereby highlighting the important symbolic moment of each event; gestures, glances, and sheer density of detail are used to construct an impression of spontaneity. However, the courtesans

who embellish Henry’s meeting on the Lido have been replaced by noble women in the Disembarkation. The 1574 meeting with the king at the Lido — a carefully chosen site on

the periphery of the city — was scripted to avoid the appearance of an entrata, the symbolic exaltation and domination of the city by the ruler.!°’ In Venice, temporary architectural monuments were not constructed for visiting dignitaries in the centre of the city (at least until the second day of festivities) in order to guard against the political posturing that such structures afforded. Long-standing liberty — freedom from foreign rulers — was a constant in Venetian political discourse, and deliberations over protocols and the choice of site for the official meeting with

the king were consequently intended to assuage any appearance of a threat to Venetian autonomy.'* As noted above, the visit generated numerous chronicles and prints, including Francesco Bertelli’s engraving of the ephemeral architectural accoutrements (fig. 64) 99 Francesco depicted the relation between the two temporary structures erected on the Lido, including the prominent Loggia, an architectural form associated with the nobility on the terraferma.'*’ In Venice, this resonance was

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190 The World in Venice

By the middle of the century, images identified as Turks (the nomen-

clature for Muslims rather than a specific ethnic identity) were also familiar sights on the walls of Venetian houses.'* Roman emperors were

another popular type, as recorded among the vast collection of paintings owned by Gasparo Segizzi, a painter of miniatures. He also owned a

small gilded mirror that was hung among the portraits, probably adjacent to a portrait of Caesar Augustus.'’ Venetians were the only producers of good-quality plane mirrors — an industry they protected — until the middle of the seventeenth century, when lower costs made these novel objects conventional in European households.'* A sampling of

notarial records from 1569 to 1595 show that Flemish merchants shipped crates of mirrors, sometimes framed, from Venice to London, Cadiz, Seville, Lisbon, and Amsterdam.’ A crate of mirrors was listed

among the goods stored in the warehouses of one of these men, Francesco Vrins.'® Thirty-three smaller cases inside the crate contained nearly 900 mirrors in two sizes.’ His residence in Venice was filled with paintings, portraits, mirrors, and maps. The entrance, for example, was decorated with nine portraits, four of which were of relatives, a small mirror, and a large mappamondo. A room overlooking the canal con-

tained a large mirror and two portraits including one of Vrins’s wife. Three maps and a second mappamondo embellished the portego on the floor above. Although more common in the homes of the well-off, inventories of the last decades of the century in Venice attest to the growing presence of framed murrors by the 1580s and their location, amid collections of portraits, suggests that residents may have seen their own faces reflected among those depicted in the surrounding images. Portraits had long functioned as a form of cultic imagery — to make family members present and to confirm lineages.'® Increasingly, professional connections could be established through shared representational conventions. Portraits of famous figures continued to serve as models, and printed portrait books, with their combination of likeness and biography, spring from this context. Since these likenesses were compiled into categories, usually profession, and identified by costume, coats of arms, and other external accoutrements, the genre indicates that individual identity was still, even at the end of the sixteenth century, subsumed within collective affiliations of family, status, and trade. Series of prints would therefore seem to question Jacob Burckhardt’s parallel between portraiture and the ‘birth of the individual.’ Sixteenth-century selves, as Stephen Greenblatt maintains, were defined by the ownership of their words or actions and not their individual bod-

Likeness and History in Printed Portrait Books 191

ies.’ As noted in the Introduction, John Martin has suggested that we should not disregard Burckhardt’s ideas in their entirety.” Martin’s research indicates a growing split between a sense of interiority, defined by sincerity and prudence, or dissimulation. As suggested here, it may have been the very process of serialization that contributed to the split identified by Martin, and to the impression of a modern subject whose identity is defined by its body. Portrait books may have responded to humanist beliefs that outward appearances were an expression of a person’s soul, but as this chapter suggests, print participated in inverting this process by showing how the face came to constitute the characteristics that determined identity. In so doing, printed portraits, and the social practices with which they intersected, may have altered the ways in which identities accrued to individuals. ‘The conventions of costume books, as we saw, prompted viewers to recognize differences between geographical, civic, and social types. Printed portraits reveal a similar interest in the legibility of signs; however in portrait books, as this chapter argues, the imagery calls attention to differences within the type. In contrast to costume books, in portrait books the type unfolds to reveal the individual.

The Face and the Map

At the end of the fifteenth century, as we saw in chapter |, Jacopo de’ Barbari surrounded his woodcut of Venice with heads of wind gods, each of which was rendered distinctively from the others (fig. 9). Perhaps, as suggested by Terisio Pignatti, the face of the Greek wind god to

the right is a self-portrait of the artist; more certainly, the naturalistic physiognomy functions as an analogue for the mimetic accuracy of the cityscape. Moreover, with this face de’Barbari evokes Ptolemy, whose

parallel between the work of the cartographer and the portraitist became a commonplace in the Renaissance. For Ptolemy, as we saw in chapter 1, the geography of the world was analogous with the human face, and its cities comparable with facial features (fig. 6) 21 The aim of the chorographer is to represent only one part, as if one were to imitate or to paint only one ear, or an eye. But the aim of the geographer is to consider the universal whole in the guise of those who describe or paint the entire head. ...

[C]horographers attend more to the quality of places, representing their true figures and their likenesses. Geographers are the opposite,

192. The World in Venice

attending more to quantity, by describing sizes, sites, and proportion of distances.

Remarkably, de’ Barbari has conflated both visual metaphors in the same bird’s-eye view (fig. 3). Seen from an Olympian vantage point, and surrounded by wind gods, the woodcut follows conventions of printed map-

paemundi (fig. 7); Venice is depicted as a world unto itself following Ptolemy’s geographer, who delineates the entire human head. Yet every window and calle of the city is depicted with the portraitist’s devotion to

the eye or the nose in accordance with the chorographer’s art of exact description. In this synoptic image, then, Venice was envisioned as both a face and a close-up.

Francesco Sansovino reiterated this double vision of the city in his 1561 guidebook in which he describes Venice as ‘the eye of Italy.’** This physiognomic identity is suggested by Giuseppe Rosaccio, who exagger-

ated the scale of Venice on his map of Italy (1607; fig. 14). When the Italian peninsula was represented from above in maps, the profile was seen to resemble the face of Europe, and Venice — with its insular pupil centred in an iris-like lagoon — its oculus. This correspondence of the city’s topography to a human eye becomes fixed in later sixteenth-century bird’s-eye views in which distortions to the Lido and the terraferma create a symmetrical frame (fig. 13). Toward the end of the century, this

iconic view appeared in a new format, surrounded by portraits of the doges, who are accompanied by brief biographies (fig. 70). In these political fogh volanti the ‘natural likenesses’ of the doges were seen to parallel the ‘portrait of the marvellous city of Venice.’*? The analogy between these two ‘nobilissimi spiriti’ was made by the friar Fulgenzio Manfredi and published by G. Battista Mazza and Gasparo Uccelli in 1598. One extant copy of their broadsheet was cut into parts and is now bound in a volume in the British Library (fig. 71). Manfredi compiled the compendia of civic history, events, and biographies of the doges, and his younger brother designed the portraits after those in the Ducal Palace. Figure 71 demonstrates how the distinctiveness of an individual’s physiognomy is set into relief by the collective context. Biography, likeness, and geography had been brought together earlier by Sansovino, who advocated the use of portraits of celebrated people in texts in the fourth book of Lhistoria di casa Orsina. Published in Venice in 1565, this early example of a portrait book consists of biographies and portraits of the Orsina family, many of whom had served the Venetian state. His introduction is cited at length because it introduces a number of overlapping themes to which I return throughout the chapter:

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Figure 74 Giacomo Franco, /n questa habito si vede i Sermo Doge di Venetia ... Habiti degli huomeni et donne venetiane (Venice: 1610). Engraving, folio | photo: by permission of the British Library, London]. C.48h.11 £5

Likeness and History in Printed Portrait Books 201 their coats of arms, Effigie de sommi Pontefici dalla sedia d’‘Avignone ritornate

a Roma fino a questi tempi, was published in 1611 (fig. 75). Supplementing the post-Avignon focus 1s a list of the popes since Peter, into which a

miniature engraving of Paul V, the reigning pope, has been inserted (fig. 76). The kings of France, illustrious ancients, and Roman emperors

provided further categories for printmakers, including engravings of the latter made after portraits by Titian.” All of these projects were spawned by Paolo Giovio’s immense collection of painted portraits of renowned individuals once seen together in

his palace, turned museum, in Como.” A humanist, Giovio was fascinated with imprese — those devices in which an individual’s image and motto were converted into a symbol of his or her character’ — and the portrait book, with its combination of image and text is an expression of this interest. Nevertheless, his two biographies — one of famous poets and philosophers, and the other of great warriors — were published with-

out reproductions of his portraits in 1546 and 1551, perhaps, as suggested by Cecil Clough, because the quality of engraving was not yet adequate.>’ Giovio’s plan to combine portraits with an account of the sitters’ deeds appeared only posthumously, when Tobias Stimmer’s drawings were used to illustrate two new editions of the Elogia and two portrait books.”? The Musei ioviani imagines, published in 1577, brings together 122 octavo woodcuts made by Tobias Stimmer after Giovio’s portraits (fig. 77). Significantly, Giovio subordinated concern for artistic

style or aesthetics in favour of copies that could be traced back to a source, a preference, as Linda Klinger has demonstrated, for the portrait’s function as a historical document.” The likeness was thereby objectified; instead of making the sitter present — the use of portraits as cultic imagery for family identity — the copy provided a form of historical distance.

Portrait books were also a response to the revitalization by Renaissance humanists of ancient theories concerning facial features and personality.*” These ideas circulated in the medieval period and were rehearsed through the Renaissance. ‘Toward the end of the sixteenth century, however, writers began to emphasize the process of reading the face and body as texts composed of signs. A striking example of this shift toward the semantic potential of the face is Giovanni Bonifacio’s Larte de‘cenni, a text which aims to promote the ‘mute eloquence of gesture’ as a universal language.*’ As he explains, ‘The concepts of our souls can

be expressed in four ways, [with] signs/gestures, speech, writing, and

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202 The World in Venice

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Likeness and History in Printed Portrait Books 203

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Figure 76 J nomi et cognomi titolt et patrie di tutti ti somt pontefict. List of popes,

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questi tempi (Vicenza[?]: Pietro Bertelli, 1611). Engraving, folio [ photo: by permission of the British Library, London] c.80.f.4

204 The World in Venice

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Likeness and History in Printed Portrait Books 223

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Likeness and History in Printed Portrait Books 233

fiction of the sitter’s presence is emphasized further by the absence of elaborate frames like those used by Muller and Sttmmer. In their books, the flamboyant frames highlight the act of re-presenting Paolo Giovio’s museum for circulation in print. Pietro turned to several sources for his sultans, including Franco’s Effiggie naturale. In contrast with the heroes that comprise the earlier Musaei Loviani imagines, Franco’s album is a roster of reigning princes and captains, as explained in his dedication to Giovanni Battista Borbone, Marquis of Monte S Maria, and Captain General of the Venetian infantry: I have collected and engraved the most natural likenesses that I was able to of the major princes and of the most celebrated captains of our age ... having in consideration the conspicuous and glorious nobility of princes here portrayed, and together, the celebrated and famous virtue of the others; I do not believe it possible to dedicate the said collection to another more

worthy than your eminence; you, with your illustrious ancient nobility joined together with noteworthy merits and the immortal splendour of proper virtue, are justly able to escort such a glorious series of heroes, and to conduct them into the view and consideration of the world.'*°

With its theme of ‘captains of our age,’ the title of the series — Effiggie naturali — resonates beyond standard rhetorical conventions regarding the lifelikeness achieved by painters of portraits.'’’ Printmakers repeat-

edly stress the living presence of the sitters, usually identifying the images as likenesses (effigie) instead of portraits (ritratiz) 152 Others stress

their efforts to obtain models for which the sitter was believed to have posed. In 1624, Giacomo Crulli di Marcucci asserted that his collection of portraits represented the popes from life (da naturale) since the ‘likenesses’ were copied from ‘medals, and paintings, with the most possible diligence.’’’’ Even if Marcucci exaggerated, for he also used prints as sources, his claims underscore the iconic function of printed portraits. Some publishers even acknowledged their debt to earlier printed portraits, for the same reason.!** Franco’s sitters, however, were contemporaries. Thus when Pietro Bertelli copied Franco’s engraving of Mehmed

III, the authenticity of the reigning sultan was guaranteed precisely because Franco’s series consisted of contemporaries (figs. 84, 85).

In 1597 the same engraving was transformed into a small woodcut medallion for the German portrait book Prosapia vel genealogia impera-

234 The World in Venice

torum turcicorum (fig. 86). The portrait of Sinan Bassa, the sultan’s captain general, also copied from Franco’s album, is a ‘Contrafactur,’ as the text above the small oval image states (figs. 89, 90). Lifelikeness lost in the translation from engraving to woodcut was compensated for by the

counterfeit, a naturalistic mode used to claim ‘the truth of the eyewitness account.’!®? Woodcut copies could be inserted into inexpensive reprints as generic portraits, in some cases the same portrait being used for different lives.!*° Repetition itself provided, in Cecil Clough’s words,

‘a patina of authenticity.’!°’ The very fact that a portrait was a copy attested to its lineage. Paolo Giovio, for example, referred to his museum as ‘true portraits ... faithfully copied from the original’; these copies were the paintings he commissioned of a standard size from the originals he had collected over thirty years.'°* The circulation of Stimmer’s woodcut copies of Giovio’s portraits in 1577, moreover, seems to have spurred collectors to commission painted copies.'”” Although copying was an integral part of compiling these series, the process was clearly selective. Pietro Bertelli only reproduced two of the seven Ottoman sultans published in the 1577 Musaei Ioviani imagines, as

noted earlier. When Pietro copied Franco’s print of Mehmed II he deleted the background, but he also altered the sceptre wielded by the sultan and the cartouche, details that indicate the image is neither traced nor a mere copy. The small changes mark the artist’s intervention and gesture toward the fiction of the printmaker’s own presence before the sitter. The series of bust-length portraits of the sultans, now in Munich, furthers the suggestion that models were altered in the studio in order to create the effect of lifelikeness. In some cases it is the representational convention that implies authenticity. For the portraits of Mehmed II and Suleyman, for instance, the artist has adopted the profile poses familiar from a range of models, but the details of the faces are rendered with spontaneity. Only one of the Munich portraits, a profile of Bayezid II (reigned 1481-1512; fig. 91), bears much resemblance to the sitter in Giovio’s painting of the sultan, who turns instead toward the viewer, as seen in Stimmer’s reproduction (see fig. 92). If Giovio’s

model served as a prototype, the painter from the Venetian workshop has transformed it. None of these Venetian artists seems to have drawn on portraits by Ottomans, who were themselves pressed to turn to western examples for their portrait albums, a genre initiated by Sayyid Lokman and Nakkas Osman in 1579.'*° Limited access to the sultan and prohibitions against

figurative representation necessitated that artists search outside the

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236 ‘The World in Venice

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238 The World in Venice

BAIAZETH. Il. TVRCARVM

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Likeness and History in Printed Portrait Books 239

empire for models for their illustrated genealogies. A likeness ‘was considered a “reflection” of the person, devoid of his soul,’ and thus Islamic

artists conveyed information about historical and fictive persons through iconographic conventions and compositional devices such as

seating arrangements.'*’ Until the nineteenth century, as Esin Atil explains, ‘all representations of rulers were executed from memory and

based on accepted models of an ideal type’ authenticated by research into the individual’s ‘physical characteristics.’'**

In printed costume books, almost every image of a Turk was derived from Nicolas de Nicolay; for Book I of his Diversarum nationum habitus, first published in 1589 in Padua, Pietro traced the engravings of Abraham de Bruyn, who had himself used Nicolay’s archetypes as a source. Although similar genealogies can be drawn for individual printed portraits,'* producers of portraits appear to have resisted copying entire series in order to assist in the fiction of the sitter’s singular presence. The mechanical process of reproduction worked together with the precision of copperplate engraving to render the singularity of the like-

ness legible. These were the ‘clear images’ about which Sansovino enthused in his Orsina history, stressing the claims to objectivity made by the art of engraving. Franco was among those popular printmakers who altered his mode of working the plate, even erasing his style, in accordance with the subject matter. In his Effiggie naturalt every portrait

is marked with franco forma. The printmaker usually differentiated between those works he designed — signed with for fecit— and those that

he published, and often engraved himself, on the copperplate, identified with forma or formis.'** Forma referred to his process of inscribing the plate and his proprietorship over the dissemination of the image.'*” Thus he seems to have distinguished between an original design and the

business of print: the work of making copies and control over their mechanical reproduction. In this light, the use of the term ‘likeness’ (effigie) comes into sharper focus. Pietro Bertelli and Giacomo Franco clearly intended to assert the presence of the sitters in the images. Their engravings can be understood following the conventions of icon paint-

ing in which the presence of the sitter is ensured by the repetition of gestures, naturalism, and by the suppression of the artist’s style. Hans Belting has described the transition from icons to art — from resemblance to representation — in the Renaissance: “The new presence of the work succeeds the former presence of the sacred in the work ... the pres-

ence of an idea that is made visible in the work: the idea of art, as the artist had it in mind.’!“° The collections of images considered here indi-

240 The World in Venice

cate a reversal of this formulation since the artists have subordinated their style in order to replicate the original, the individual depicted in the print. Yet, this is not merely a return to earlier practices; instead the likeness of the sitter is produced in the work of printing, through the printer’s work of reproduction. Instead of erasing the relation between resemblance and the referent through the artist’s mediation, what

Belting would refer to as the loss that is art, the printed portrait authenticates the referent through its very reproducibility, an idea emblematized by the mirror image pulled from the plate, the indexical sign of the printing process. Acting and Appearances

Venice was a departure point to the east, and travellers adopted identities as required, changing their names and dressing in local costume.

Clearly legislated religious identity, however, required a correlation between the performative attributes of identity — those concepts more easily described in texts — and how one appeared to others on the outside. For judicial authorities, as discussed in chapter 2, circumcision and the eating of meat on Fridays were evidence of acting like a Muslim, and costume a sign of that identity.1*’ Efforts to distinguish between external appearances and internal character also provided fodder for popular representations of Turks. La Turca was the title of two plays that were

published in Venice in 1597 and 1606, the latter a satire by Giovanni Battista della Porta that was probably penned in the 1570s.'** The author’s fascination with appearances drives the plot of this cross-dressing comedy that hinges on the ways in which bodies seem to, or fail to, signify. Set on the island of Lesina, then a Venetian outpost off the Dalmatian coast, the play begins with two old men, Gerofilo and Argentoro,

each planning to marry the other’s daughter, Clarice and Biancafiore. The wives of the men had been abducted by Turks, to whom the elderly inamorati express their gratitude in absentia as they describe the looks

and personality of the women to each other with comic, if brutal, flare.'*” Argento’s lengthy account of his wife Gabriana’s facial features — ‘a physiognomy more of a cow than a woman’ and with ‘the mustache of a baboon’ — recalls the author’s famous comparisons of human faces

and animals that fill the editions of Della Porta’s De humana physiognomonia (fig. 93).

Gerofilo’s son Eromane, already secretly wed to Clarice, and his friend, Eugenio, the lover of Biancafiore, set out to rescue the girls by

Likeness and History in Printed Portrait Books 241

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242 The World in Venice

dressing up as Turks and abducting them at night. In the meantime, we learn that the old men had refused to pay the ransom for their wives, which is why Gabriana informed their Turkish kidnappers of their hus-

bands’ whereabouts. Preparing to rob and enslave the husbands, the ‘real’ Turks, Dergut and Hebraim, arrive at Clarice’s house, where they

speak with her maid, who appears on the balcony. Since the maid is aware of the charade, and assumes the Turks are Eromane and Eugenio, she advises them that Clarice is waiting for them with her jewels. Dergut misinterprets their eagerness as the behaviour of prostitutes, calling the maid a Ruffiana (a procuress). Hearing this surprising insult, the maid questions whether the voice is in fact that of the young lover. However, the shrewd Dergut realizes they have stumbled into a plot and convinces the young woman to join them with her cache. When she is tied up and ravished by Dergut, she asks him if by dressing in the costume of a Turk

he has taken up their customs.'?? Throughout the play such ethnic stereotypes are expressed in actions and costumes instead of physical features.

Since the streets of Lesina that night are filled with ‘false Turks,’ Eugenio and Eromane become separated from each other. The latter, mistaking Dergut for Eugenio, hands over his sister Biancafiore. Two scenes later, and before he realizes his mistake, EFromane comes across Dergut, once again mistaking him for his friend, who he believes has so skillfully impersonated a Turk. At this compliment, Dergut laughs and

declares Eromane his slave.’°’ At the supposed jest, Eromane also laughs: “Ah, ah, ah; how you pretend to be the Turk with such noble kindness ( gentilezza); 1f I had not seen you cross-dressing with these eyes,

I would judge you to be a true Turk, since you have the gestures and the comportment.’ At this Dergut asks rhetorically, “You would recognize if I were a Turk, or only dressed as one?’ No one could be a more convincing imposter of the Turkish race, responds Eromane, since ‘you attack so well with your hands.’

Finally, when Eromane realizes that instead of liberating his betrothed he has handed her over to the Turks, Clarice explains why she was deceived: “The desire to be with you, and the costume of the Turk fooled me; as soon as he appeared, I went to him right away, recognizing the clothes (vestz) of my Lord, not the person.’ ;

However convincing Dergut’s performance, the end of the play reveals he too is an impostor, born a Christian, but taken by the Turks and circumcised. Not only Italian, but of noble Venetian blood, he is identified by his father, now the governor of Lesina, by a scar on his

Likeness and History in Printed Portrait Books 243

forehead. Signs of authentic identity like noble blood and scars could not be exchanged like clothes or faith. La Turca, with its comic exaggerations, draws on the fact that contemporaries stereotyped Turks on the basis of how they were deemed to act as a group. Official and popular Venetian accounts provide further evidence that

Turkish stereotypes circulated in language, and these were related to customs and practices and not facial characteristics. Dergut Rais, for example, the single historical character in the play, was based on the Turkish corsair Dragutto Rais, who was legendary for his harassment of Italy.'°° In his relazione to the Pregadi in February 1553, the bailo Bernardo Navagero reported that Dragutto Rais was as ‘greedy as are all the other Turks.’ This comment was echoed in Jacopo Ragazzoni’s report to the senate in 1571 on Selim: ‘by nature he is very greedy as all the Turks are universally.’!°* Turks were characterized as licentious and lacking in

masculine virtu, on one hand, but violent and barbaric on the other. Phrases such as ‘to swear, drink, smoke like a Turk’ or the combination of associations “Turk — assassin — dog — heretic’ (7urco-assassino-cane-

eretico) indicate that prejudices targeted acting like a Turk and not looking like one.’”° According to Ptolemy, as Della Porta reports in his Fisonomia, “Arabs

are great thieves, with double souls, fraudulent, with a servile soul, unstable, and desirous of profit.’"!°° Although Della Porta introduces ancient theories that attributed differences in character, customs, and physical appearance to geography, climate, and the configuration of the stars, his own analysis focuses on the particulars of faces. Since a raven has a curved nose and the character of a thief, this facial feature is typical of domestic servants, who steal money and cutlery, or a prostitute, who robs a silver vase. Moreover it is individuals from history who provide evidence: ‘Catilana had a similar nose, and he was ambitious, avaricious, rapacious.’!°/ A hooked nose — a sign of magnanimity and regal poise — is illustrated with the head of the eagle and the profile of the Roman emperor Servio Sulpicio Galba (ruled 68-9 CE). A parade

of famous men, such as Constantine, is brought forward as evidence that a hooked nose distinguishes rulers and heroes. Significantly, the list includes several rulers of Muslim nations, including Mehmed II, who had a ‘hooked and notable nose, that almost reached his upper lip; and he had a great soul.’!°* Both Selim I and Siileyman figure in the text; the former had an ‘arched nose, was very munificent, emulating the great Alexander. Also Suliman, son of Selim, had a hooked nose, [and was| a warrior and splendid.’!” Despite the spurious geo-

244 The World in Venice

graphical stereotypes rehearsed by Della Porta in his introduction, these are not central to his ‘new physiognomy,’ defined as those signature traits that marked individuals. If visual imagery has trained modern viewers to interpret a hooked nose as a Semitic feature — as a sign of both physiognomic and ethnic identity — sixteenth-century viewers were only beginning to relate the actions of individuals to their facial features.

If portraits of Ottoman Turks called up stereotypes about group behaviour, it was the turban that brought these ideas to mind instead of facial features. In the case of series of portraits, as we have seen, it was the authenticity of the likeness that was crucial. In this context, two of Tobias Stimmer’s woodcuts provide examples of how contemporaries might have interpreted their faces. Both Haireddin (Horuccius Pirata; fig. 94), a Muslim, and his captain, Sinan the Jew (Sinas Judaeus), are depicted in profile, which highlights their crooked noses and pointed

chins. Their turbans contribute to the articulated silhouette of their

portraits. Significantly, the likenesses of the two corsairs were carefully copied from a painting once in Paolo Giovio’s museum, in which the

two men appear together (fig. 95).'° The men’s articulated profiles thereby attest to the status of the copies as truthful portraits. In contrast to modern perceptions of the portraits as racial types, contemporaries

more likely equated the craggy features — the furrowed brows and arched noses exaggerated by Stimmer for visual effect — with their singularly predaceous dispositions than with racial types.

What stands out in Pietro’s book, and this is typical of the genre, is not the similarity of the faces of the sultans, but the remarkable differences between them. The genus — identified by the turban — is divided into the species of individuals, with the character of each described in the text. Middle Eastern faces seen in the prints of Simmer, Pietro Bertelli, and Giacomo Franco offer little evidence of geographical or ethnic distinctiveness familiar from modern racial stereotypes. Instead, the repetition of the turban foregrounds the features that distinguish one from the other. What seems crucial here, however, for understanding the mechanisms initiated by the format, is that the reader is enlisted to look for the signs of the biography in the likeness. Franco’s iconic image of Mehmed III, as noted earlier, is supported by a military parade and stately proces-

sion that appear in the background (see fig. 84). When Pietro copied the image, this temporal frame migrated into the biographical text that

accompanies the portrait (fig. 85). As a result of the simple dark

Likeness and History in Printed Portrait Books 245

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Likeness and History in Printed Portrait Books 251

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Likeness and History in Printed Portrait Books 255

teca Marucelliana in Florence. The frames indicate Ottavio planned to publish the portraits in accordance with the formula that characterized late sixteenth-century series of portraits explored above.'™ In 1621 Ottavio began a new project for a series of etchings based on portraits of contemporaries, all of whom were active in Rome.!* Before his early death, caused by the noxious process of etching, he had completed forty prints of artists, poets, mathematicians, and patrons. In contrast to his earlier plan, however, all of these professional categories were included in the same series. By bringing artists together with con-

temporary intellectuals, Ottavio’s series would have established the equivalence of painting with poetry, a goal that followed decades of efforts to elevate the status of artists.'™*

Composed of living likenesses, the prints would have resembled Giacomo Franco’s album. By contrast, however, the batons, orbs, sceptres,

coats of arms, and narrative backgrounds that signify the identity of Franco’s sitters have been omitted or at least underplayed. Instead it is Ottavio’s ‘striking likenesses’ that become the sign of the sitter. No longer classified by profession, the printed portraits reproduce the presence of the sitters zn Rome qua individuals.

The persistent conviction that outward appearances were symptoms of the soul was coming to define personality, but in so doing, the causal link was becoming inverted; facial features were becoming signs of identity — Della Porta’s ‘doctrine of signatures’ — and this became the framework for relocating identity 7m the individual. Significantly the meaning

of ‘identity’ underwent a dramatic shift during this period. Its Latin roots were idem and entitas, or ‘same entity, a meaning that corresponds with the sixteenth-century meaning of identity as ‘absolute sameness’;

‘the quality or condition of being identical in every detail ... Also the fact of being identified with.’ By the middle of the seventeenth century, however, the term came to mean the inverse: ‘the condition or fact of a person or thing being that specified unique person or thing, as a continuous unchanging property throughout existence; the characteristics determining this, individuality, personality.’’*? Instead of understanding individuals primarily through a network of external relationships — family, parish, profession, corporate affiliation — it was the boundaries of the

body that were coming to define the self. And the face — through the processes of conjoining biography and physiognomy described above — was becoming a sign of an individual’s personality.

Conclusion °

The Signature

Francesco Vrins, the Flemish merchant encountered in the last chapter,

exported an extraordinary range of merchandise from Venice to Europe. Following his death in May 1604, an inventory was made of his

storerooms and personal goods that included a large number of portraits, mirrors, and mappaemundi that were displayed throughout his house. Surrounded by likenesses of family members and other portraits,

one can imagine Vrins considering his own reflection in an adjacent mirror. The world maps seem especially appropriate for a merchant living abroad, as does a particularly intriguing record in the inventory: a set of Georg Braun’s Civitates orbis terrarum, the grand atlases of printed city maps discussed in earlier chapters (figs. 11, 38).! The views in the

books are framed with figures in local attire and accompanied with a text that explains each city’s history and customs. Perusing the volumes, Vrins could explore the cities of Seville, Lisbon, Marseilles, and London

to which he shipped goods. He could also compare his native home to Venice, where he was now a resident. For by seeing one’s place in the world it was possible to examine one’s relation to place and history, to put one’s identity into perspective.” Print offered a way of imagining one’s place in relation to what was outside: a vicarious experience of

alterity that in turn contributed to the self’s identification with the familiar.

For the printmakers who translated between the thing seen and the observer, this process of self-identification can be traced in the image. For example, at the top of the woodcut of Venice published by Anton Kolb in 1500 is a mountain pass that leads to Germany, Kolb’s home-

Conclusion 257

land, a reference that links the publisher of the print to the inscription of his place inside the representation.” In chapter I, this idea is considered in relation to Jacopo de’Barbari’s authorship; the lack of a name, in the documents or the woodcut, and the picture’s extraordinary realism — the absence of a distinctive personal style — prompted debates about his involvement (fig. 3). Even the dominance of the caduceus, which became the artist’s trademark, could be attributed to the iconographic significance of Mercury to the city instead of the artist. He did not adopt the caduceus as a signature until leaving Venice to work in Germany. However it may have been through the very process of crafting the image of the city seen from an Olympian height that de’Barbari came to identify with the constellation of associations ascribed to Mercury, the messenger who translates between the real and ideal. Living in Germany, and reflecting on his native place may have led him to adopt the attribute of Mercury as a sign of the messenger who brought forth a vision of the city from the sea (fig. 4). Painters in Venice largely abandoned the use of signatures early in the

sixteenth century since their identity began to be recognized by their distinctive style.* By contrast, Giacomo Franco, like many of the printmakers discussed in the book, adopted a naturalistic mode as a means to underpin claims to objectivity, and it is more often the characteristic ser-

ifs of his text that function as a sign of his hand, such as his cursive script, or the calligraphic signature with which he sometimes embellished his maps (fig. 66). In one of his maps of Venice, for example, the first letter of his signature, ‘Giacomo Franco fecit,’ is drawn out below into an interlace which fills the remaining space at the end of the legend and frames the date in which the print was made. As we saw, he usually differentiated between those works he designed — signed with for fecit— and those that he published and sometimes engraved himself, on the copperplate, identified with forma or formis.? Forma referred to his process of inscribing the plate and his proprietorship over the dissemination of the image. Thus he seems to have distinguished between the composition of the image and the business of print: the practice of copying and his control over its mechanical reproduction. In this bird’s-eye

view, Franco did both, and the trace of his original inscription on the copperplate — repeated identically through print — circulated outside the city as a sign for his place of business. Friendship albums, as we saw in chapter 2, moved with the traveller.

These were used to collect autographs that were often underlined with dramatic and seemingly illegible calligraphy; as Max Rosenheim has

258 The World in Venice

shown, many of these flourishes should be read as ‘manu propria.” The manuscript words, or their abbreviation, are literally the trace of the sig-

natorys own hand. The collection of names of individuals, accompanied by the date of the signature, personal motto, and coat of arms, became separated from the place in which the person had inscribed it. Since a signature is never exactly the same but carries the trace of the individual, the albums can be understood as collections of places: a network of sites or topot.

In the earlier travellers’ albums, the phrases were usually in Latin, but by the end of the century, these came to be transcribed in the ‘modern’ vernacular languages.’ Crucial to this process was the visibility of this shift, to which the signatures in the albums attest, for alphabets began to express national differences in visual terms (fig. 99).° As the use of Latin

waned, the moral universe of humanist associations seen in earlier albums was being reconfigured; the inscription was beginning to carry the signs of national identities. Marks made by owners also appear in printed costume books, and these provide some evidence of how the books were used. For example, the owner of a copy of Pietro Bertelli’s costume book, now in London, translated the Latin captions into English (fig. 22). The printed album amicorum, discussed in chapter 2, is another example. The owner translates the function of this book from Latin into English in his lavish cursive script: “Adorn’d with the habit or dress of the Women of all the Country’s in Europe.” The owner experimented with styles of writing

throughout the book, including all the letters of the alphabet on one page (fig. 27). On the same sheet he transcribed ‘Virgo Veneta’ repeatedly, and he also wrote the text in English — “Venetian Virgin Veil’d’ — in

a different font. The empty shield on the coat of arms has been filled in, perhaps by a different hand since the inscription at the top right gives a name, ‘Aeneas Lowe,’ and states the words ‘Yours Received by your Friend — together with a Bill.’ This page, with its experimental interlaces

and flourishes, indicates that the owner was inspired to emulate the engraver’s hatching. Portrait books, as explained in chapter 4, encouraged viewers to con-

sider an individual’s likeness in relation to his or her history, even to find the signs of the sitter’s achievements and character in his or her face. In contrast to the function of painted portraits to memorialize the sitter, printed portraits had a mnemonic function, for they enabled readers to remember whose biography belonged to whom. As I posited, the face was itself becoming the signature of the self, a sign of the indi-

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260 The World in Venice

vidual’s singular personality. Printed portraits, city views, and costume illustrations altered how the city was perceived and, in so doing, located the subject in two places simultaneously. As a result Venetians were prompted to identify with the image, the signature, the gaze of others, the mirror. Perspective and Identity Ottavio Leone’s printed portraits, to which I turned briefly at the end of chapter 4, provide evidence of a shift in the meaning of identity by the

beginning of the seventeenth century. In contrast to affiliations with one’s family, parish, occupation, and confraternity, the categories that characterized late medieval identity, Ottavio’s proposed series consisted of individuals drawn from diverse professions who all inhabited the same time and city. Significantly, Ottavio incorporated himself in this collection of intellectuals along with many of his colleagues, a strategy that signals his claims for his own status among the group of illustrious individuals (fig. 100).

The mode of representation also points toward a change in understandings of perception. Ottavio’s portraits were made ‘alla macchia,’ drawn rapidly from memory, a process that demonstrates, as Giovanni Baglioni remarked, the artist’s skill for conjuring an image of the sitter in his mind, and then projecting it onto paper.'” These ‘striking likenesses’ were etchings, a process that enabled him to draw directly on the

plate. Thus the representation of the sitter was no longer copied from earlier sources — that lineage which authenticated the likeness — or mediated by the labour of a blockcutter or engraver. Instead it was the artist’s impression of the sitter, a vision imprinted in his mind from life, that Ottavio drew on the medium coating the metal plate. Baglione’s description of the method in which an image was refracted through the eye of the artist corresponds with what was a new understanding of sight: the epistemological change brought about through the development of print and the plane mirror. Optical experiments, like those made with mirrors by Giovanni Battista della Porta, contributed to Johannes Kepler’s ‘principle of refraction.’"' First, the object seen is transmitted through the eye, where it is imprinted onto the retina. In turn, this image is reflected back to the pupil by the optic nerve, at which point it is recognized by the viewer’s mind. Significantly, this final cognitive phase no longer required a theory of resemblances, that mode of understanding the world through concordances between the

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