The Stormrider Surf Guide: Europe

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THE STORMRIDER SURF GUIDE EUROPE

Contents

INTRODUCTION

WALES

NORTH SEA NATIONS

PORTUGAL

The Creation of Wind Creation of Swell and Surf Tides Swell Forecasting The Ocean Environment

The Surf The Ocean Environment Travel Information Northwest Wales Pembrokeshire Gower Glamorgan

The Surf The Ocean Environment Travel Information Denmark Germany Northern Netherlands Southern Netherlands/Belgium

The Surf The Ocean Environment Travel Information Minho and Douro Beira Litoral Peniche Ericiera Lisbon Alentejo and North Algarve South Algarve

ENGLAND

FRANCE

The Surf The Ocean Environment Travel Information North Devon North Cornwall Newquay West Cornwal South Cornwall & Devon The Channel Islands Southern England – West Sothern England – East East Anglia Yorkshire Northeast England

The Surf The Ocean Environment Travel Information The Channel North Brittany South Finistère Morbihan/Loire Atlantique Vendée Charente Maritime Gironde Landes Hossegor Anglet/Biarritz The Basque Coast

SCOTLAND

SPAIN

The Surf The Ocean Environment Travel Information Southeast Scotland Moray Firth Caithness – East Caithness – West Sutherland Outer Hebrides The West Coast

The Surf and Surf Culture The Ocean Environment Travel Information País Vasco – East País Vasco – West Cantabria – East Cantabria – West Asturias – East Asturias – West Galicia – East Galicia – West Andalucia

ICELAND & SCANDINAVIA The Surf The Ocean Environment Travel Information Rekjanes Peninsula, Iceland Norway Jæren Sweden – West Sweden – East

IRELAND The Surf The Ocean Environment Travel Information Causeway Coast County Donegal Donegal Bay County Sligo County Clare Dingle Peninsula Southern Ireland

The Stormrider Surf Guide Europe

MEDITERRANEAN Swell Forecasting The Surf The Ocean Environment Travel Information Eastern Spain – South Eastern Spain – North Balearic Islands Southern France – West Southern France – East Northern Italy Central Italy Southern Italy Calabria and Sicily Sardinia – North Sardinia – South

MOROCCO The Surf The Ocean Environment Travel Information Northern Morocco Central Morocco Taghazout Southern Morocco

CONTENTS

CANARY ISLANDS

AZORES

The Surf The Ocean Environment Travel Information Lanzarote Lanzarote – North Fuerteventura Fuerteventura – North Gran Canaria – North Gran Canaria – East & South Tenerife – South Tenerife – North

The Surf The Ocean Environment Travel Information Sao Miguel – North Sao Miguel – South Terceira Sao Jorge

Reykjavik

ICELAND

NORWEGIAN SEA FAEROES

SWEDEN SHETLAND IS.

NORWAY

ORKNEY IS.

HEBRIDES

Helsinki

Oslo Stockholm

SCOTLAND

NORTH SEA

The Surf The Ocean Environment Travel Information Madeira – North Madeira – South

A

A

Vilniu

B

Dublin

LT

DENMARK Copenhagen

IRELAND

MADEIRA

Göteborg

SE

Belfast

IC

Edinburgh

WALES Cardiff

ENGLAND NETHERLANDS

London

N O R T H

The Hague Brussels

A T L A N T I C

BELGIUM Luxembourg

Paris

O C E A N

Berlin

Prague

Vienna

FRANCE

Warsaw

GERMANY

Bratislava

Bern

Budapest Ljubljana

Bilbao Porto

AZORES

Ponta Delgada

Monaco

Andorra la Vella

PORTUGAL Madrid

Lisbon

SPAIN

Barcelona

Corsica

Belgrade San Marino

Sarajevo

ITALY Rome Tirane

Sevilla

MADEIRA

Malaga Funchal

BALEARIC ISLANDS

Gibraltar Algiers Casablanca

CANARY ISLANDS

Rabat

MOROCCO

M E D I T E Sicily R R A N Tunis E A

Marrakech

Las Palmas

Sko

Sardinia

N

S E A

Tripoli El Aaiun Benghazi

Introduction Stretched along the eastern shore of the tempestuous North Atlantic Ocean, Europe presents an unrivalled diversity of surf from the arctic north to the sub-tropical south. This sublime continent has the ability to entertain the sweetest, small beachbreaks right alongside the meanest, mountainous reefbreaks, while waves of power and consequence attack the Atlantic islands from all directions. Heightened environmental awareness is the catalyst for change as the next generation carry on the fight to protect the ocean environment from pollution, erosion, coastal over-development and a host of other issues that affect this populated coastline. Meanwhile, a new breed of local surfer is pushing the frontiers, unafraid of thick rubber, thick tubes and taking on the waves from Iceland to Morocco to the tide-less shores of the Mediterranean, as surfing comes of age on the

N O R T H

European Continent. Bordée par l’océan Atlantique Nord et ses tempêtes

A T L A N T I C

hivernales, l’Europe jouit d’une diversité de spots des plus alléchantes, de l’Arctique jusqu’au Sahara. La culture surf

O C E A N

est désormais bien ancrée sur ce continent incroyable, où des beachbreaks aussi tranquilles que parfaits côtoient de puissants reefs. Pour compléter ce tableau déjà attrayant, des vagues consistantes et puissantes attaquent Les îles Atlantiques de toutes parts. Les enjeux environnementaux sont de taille, heureusement des surfers militants se

N

A

préoccupent des générations futures en se battant contre la

T

L

pollution, l’érosion, les excès du développement immobilier

A

le long des côtes ainsi que tous les problèmes inhérent à

passant par la Méditerranée, les gros tubes et combis pour eaux glaciales ne leur font pas peur!

The Stormrider Surf Guide Europe

N O

qui vient repousser les limites. De l’Islande au Maroc en

PLANETARY VISIONS

Vieux Continent, c’est maintenant une nouvelle génération

R T H

un littoral urbanisé. Le surf étant parvenu à maturité sur le

T

I

C

N O R W E G I A N S E A

SHETLAND ISLANDS ORKNEY ISLANDS

HEBRIDES

N O R T H B A LT I C SEA

S E A

EN

G

H LIS

CH

ANN

EL

B i s c a y Pl a i n

A

Fosse de Capbreton

D

E

G

C

SE

A ZORES

Ta g u s Pl a i n

ALBORAN SEA

IC

Corsica

E

A

A

BAEARIC ISLANDS

R

I D

A

RI

R

B

A LE

T

S

LIGURIAN SEA

I b e ri a n Pl a i n

IA

Golfo di Genoa

Golfe du Lion

Galicia Bank

T YRRHENIAN

Sardinia

M

E

SEA IONIAN

D

I

SEA

Sicily

T

E

R

R

A

N

E A N

S E

A

MADEIR A

CANARY ISLANDS

The Stormrider Surf Guide Europe

INTRODUCTION

The earth’s weather is a complex system designed to redistribute the heat energy that the sun delivers. The sun’s rays strike the equatorial regions with more concentration, causing the surrounding air to be heated. This lighter, hot air rises in updrafts, then travels towards the poles, high in the atmosphere. When it cools, the air sinks down to sea level and returns towards the equator, replacing the warm air and completing the heat exchange process. These parcels of air are measured by barometric pressure whereby falling air increases sea-level pressure resulting in a high pressure and rising air decreases the sea-level pressure so it is called a low pressure. The air in a high pressure is attracted to areas of low pressure and rushes towards it, creating winds. The rotation of the earth deflects the wind from taking a direct route between a high and a low pressure, a phenomenon known as the Coriolis force. In the northern hemisphere, this causes the air to spin clockwise around a high pressure and anti-clockwise around a low pressure. The winds spin in the opposite direction in the southern hemisphere and these rotations are mirrored by the ocean currents. The Coriolis effect is also responsible for bending any wind (or pressure system) in the northern hemisphere to the right of its direction of travel. This right turn will be regardless of which way it is flowing between the equator and the poles and will therefore be a left arc for winds south of the equator. This produces the NE and SE trade winds that blow towards the equator from each hemisphere and also angles the mid-latitude westerlies from the NW and SW respectively. Besides these two dominant bands of circulating winds, there are polar cells at the extremities of the planet and doldrums directly over the equator. A low pressure or depression will form when a small perturbation in pressure and temperature exists. The warm, lighter air slides over the top of the cold, denser air. If conditions are right this will lead to a selfperpetuating vortex. These mid-latitude systems become more energetic in the winter when the temperature difference between the equator and the poles increases. A primary influence on the west to east movements of these weather systems is the flow of air in the upper atmosphere called the jet stream. The jet stream moves at much higher speeds than the surface air and dictates the speed, intensity and trajectory of surface weather systems.

EMI MAZZONI

The Creation of Wind

Capo di Manu, Sardinia

A jet stream that takes a polar heading will create surface low pressures that deepen, while a jet leading towards the equator will cause the low to fill and fizzle out. The most violent of all low pressures are formed over warm, tropical oceans when huge differences in temperature get a storm spinning extremely fast. Massive amounts of water vapour are drawn up into the vortex of these destructive tropical storms that are known by different names around the world. Hurricane is used in the Atlantic and northeastern Pacific, typhoon is the word for the north-western Pacific and cyclone is favoured in the south-western Pacific and Indian Ocean.

Wind is the single biggest factor in the creation of rideable waves and surface winds are controlled by what happens in the upper atmosphere.

The two polar jet streams meander gently from north to south. Beneath them large frontal systems form along the boundary between polar and tropical air masses.

High level jet stream

Meandering waves called Rossby waves

Meanders produce rotating frontal weather systems

Europe’s Oceans and Seas The Atlantic Ocean

82,000,000km2 The Atlantic is the world’s second largest ocean with 22% of the global sea area, but it’s only half the size of the Pacific. Bisected by the equator, the greatest distance from east to west in the North Atlantic is Morocco to Florida – 7,200km and 9,600km from Guinea to Brazil in the South Atlantic. The average depth is 3,660m and the deepest point of 8,648m is in the Puerto Rico Trench. The North Atlantic is the windiest and roughest ocean with strong winter westerlies of over 55kmh (35mph) generating a band of seas greater than 5m (15ft) between Nova Scotia and the UK. There is significant seasonal variation with much milder conditions occurring in summer. The NE trade winds blowing from the sub-tropical highs (around 30ºN) towards the equator are sustained throughout the year but are weaker than those in the North Pacific. Overall, the Atlantic trades are the weakest of all oceans. The strongest swells occur in winter and spring, produced by the westerly winds in the 30º to 60º zone, sending the biggest waves to the eastern shore of the basin in Europe. L’Océan Atlantique est le second plus grand océan du monde, avec 22% de la surface des mers et océans de la planète, mais il est deux fois moins grand que le Pacifique. Il est séparé en deux par l’Equateur, la plus grande largeur d’Est en Ouest dans l’Atlantique Nord va du Maroc à la Floride avec 7200km ; dans l’ Atlantique Sud la plus grande largeur est de 9600km de la Guinée jusqu’au Brésil. La profondeur moyenne est de 3660m avec un maximum de 8648m dans la fosse de Puerto Rico. C’est le plus venté et le plus agité des océans, avec en hiver des vents forts d’O de plus de 55km/h et toute une zone avec des creux de plus de 5m

The Stormrider Surf Guide Europe

entre la Nouvelle-Écosse et le Royaume-Uni. Les variations saisonnières sont bien marquées avec un été beaucoup plus doux. Les alizés de NE soufflent tout au long de l’année vers l’Equateur depuis les hautes pressions subtropicales situées vers 30ºN, mais ne sont pas aussi forts que dans le Pacifique Nord ; ils sont globalement plus faibles que sur les autres océans. Les plus grosses houles se manifestent en hiver et au printemps, générées par les vents d’O entre 30ºet 60º de latitude N ; on aura les plus grosses vagues du côté E du bassin océanique, c’est-à-dire en Europe.

The North Sea

750,000km2 Sitting on the continental shelf in the NW corner of Europe, the North Sea is a relatively shallow body of water with an average depth of 95m and a maximum depth of 700m off Norway. It represents a tiny 0.2% of the water surface of the earth. It is open to the Atlantic in the north and via the English Channel and connects to the Baltic Sea via the Kattegat. North Atlantic weather systems bring predominantly westerly winds and some NW-N groundswell but windswells are more common, especially in the summer months. Située sur le plateau continental au NO de l’Europe, la Mer du Nord est une masse d’eau relativement peu profonde : 95m en moyenne et un maximum de 700m au large de la Norvège. Elle ne représente que 0.2% des eaux de surface de la Terre. Reliée à l’Atlantique par le N et par la Manche, elle rejoint aussi la Mer Baltique via la Kattegat. Les dépressions sur l’Atlantique Nord entraînent un régime dominant de vents d’O avec quelques houles de fond de N-NO mais les houles de vent sont les plus fréquentes, surtout en été.

The Mediterranean Sea

2,505,000km2 This is the world’s largest enclosed sea, measuring approximately 3,900km long from west to east with a maximum width of 1,600km from north to south. The ‘Med’ is deep, plumbing 5,267m in the Ionian Sea and hits an average depth of 1,500m. This ‘inland ocean’ is subdivided into many (25) smaller seas and gulfs and is fed by the Atlantic through the narrow Straits of Gibraltar, 14km wide, which strangle tidal movement in the Med to almost nothing. Most weather systems are spawned in the Mediterranean Sea but are directly affected by the passing of the mid-latitude Atlantic depressions to the north and west. Winds can be strong and come from a variety of directions with no overriding directional trend, resulting in windswells being the dominant swell type. C’est la plus grande mer fermée de la planète, mesurant approximativement 3 900km de long d’E en O avec une largeur maximum de 1600km du N au S. C’est une mer profonde, atteignant 5 267m dans la Mer Ionienne avec une moyenne de 1500m de profondeur. Ce véritable ‘océan continental’ est divisé en de nombreuses petites mers(25) et golfes, avec un débouché sur l’Atlantique par le Détroit de Gibraltar, qui ne fait que 14km de large, ce qui empêche quasiment tout mouvement de marée en Méditerranée. La plupart des systèmes dépressionnaires naissent au-dessus de la Méditerranée mais ils sont directement affectés par le passage des dépressions des latitudes moyennes sur l’Atlantique au N et à l’O. Les vents peuvent y être forts et de directions variées sans prédominance marquée, ce qui fait que l’on a le plus souvent des houles courtes de vent.

THE CREATION OF WIND

Land and sea breezes are a small scale version of the global convection currents governed by heat. During the day, the land quickly heats up and hot air starts rising. This brings in cool air from the sea in the form of the afternoon onshore sea breeze. At night when the land cools, the flow is reversed and the offshores blow. These are the forces that drive the monsoon, which is basically a powerful land or sea breeze depending on the season. Le temps sur notre planète est un système complexe destiné à redistribuer la chaleur reçue par le Soleil. Ses rayons frappent les régions équatoriales de façon plus forte, et réchauffent l’air environnant. Cet air plus chaud et plus léger va ensuite monter sous forme de courants ascendants pour rejoindre les régions polaires à une grande altitude. Se refroidissant, il redescend jusqu’au niveau de la mer et retourne vers l’Equateur pour remplacer l’air chaud ascendant, terminant ainsi le cycle de régulation thermique. Ces masses d’air sont mesurées par la pression barométrique : l’air descendant augmente la pression au niveau de la surface de la mer (anticyclone) tandis que l’air ascendant entraîne une chute de la pression (dépression). L’air des hautes pressions est attiré vers les zones de basses pressions : c’est le vent. La rotation de la Terre fait qu’au lieu d’aller de l’anticyclone vers la dépression en ligne droite, le vent va être dévié. On appelle ce phénomène la force de Coriolis, qui fait tourner le vent dans le sens des aiguilles d’une montre autour d’un anticyclone dans l’hémisphère Nord, et dans le sens inverse autour d’une dépression. C’est le contraire dans l’hémisphère Sud. Les courants marins suivent également le sens de ces rotations. La force de Coriolis affecte également n’importe quel vent ou système de pressions, en le faisant dévier vers la droite de sa trajectoire. Cette déviation vers la droite est observée quelle que soit le sens de déplacement entre l’Equateur et les pôles ; elle s’effectue vers la gauche dans l’hémisphère Sud. Cela produit donc des vents de NE et SE pour les alizés soufflant vers l’Equateur depuis chaque hémisphère, tandis quem les vents d’O aux latitudes moyennes sont aussi déviés vers le NO et le SO respectivement. En dehors de ces deux zones de vents circulaires dominants, on trouve des cellules de vent aux pôles et des zones sans vent juste audessus de l’Equateur. Une dépression va se former lorsque la pression et la température subissent de petites perturbations. L’air plus chaud et plus léger va monter au-dessus de l’air plus froid et plus dense. Si les conditions sont réunies, un tourbillon va se former et s’autoentretenir. Ces dépressions aux latitudes moyennes se renforcent en hiver à cause de la plus grande différence de température entre les pôles et l’Equateur. L’influence majeure sur le déplacement d’E en O de ces systèmes dépressionnaires est à chercher dans le flux d’air dans la haute atmosphère qu’on appelle le courant-jet. Il va à une vitesse bien plus grande que les vents de surface et va déterminer la vitesse, l’intensité et la trajectoire des dépressions au niveau de la mer. S’il est plutôt dirigé vers le pôle, ces dépressions vont avoir tendance à se creuser tandis que s’il est plutôt dirigé vers l’Equateur, celles-ci vont se combler rapidement. Les dépressions les plus violentes se forment au-dessus des océans chauds tropicaux, où des différences de températures très marquées vont faire tourner les vents très rapidement autour du centre de basse pression. D’énormes quantités de vapeur d’eau sont aspirées dans le vortex de ces tempêtes tropicales dévastatrices, appelées différemment selon l’endroit : ouragan dans l’Atlantique et le Pacifique NE, typhon dans le NO du Pacifique et cyclone dans le SO du Pacifique et l’Océan Indien. Les brises thermiques de terre et de mer sont une version à échelle réduite des courants de convection régis par la chaleur. Pendant la journée, la terre se réchauffe rapidement et de l’air chaud commence à s’élever. De l’air plus froid venu de la mer vient alors le remplacer sous la forme de vents onshore l’après-midi. La nuit quand la terre se refroidit, le système s’inverse et le vent offshore se lève. C’est le même phénomène qui s’applique pour les moussons, qui sont en fait des brises thermiques puissantes, de terre ou de mer selon la saison.

Europe’s Winds and Currents

Wind Types

Currents

Westerlies blow in the mid-latitudes (30° to 60°) and produce the groundswells. The rotation of the earth causes them to blow more NW in the northern hemisphere and more SW in the southern hemisphere.

East Trades blow in the sub-tropical latitudes (5° to 30°) and produce constant small windswell. They tend to blow more NE in the northern hemisphere and more SE in the southern hemisphere.

Les vents d’Ouest soufflent au niveau des latitudes moyennes (entre 30°et 60°)en générant des houles de fond. La rotation de la terre les fait dévier vers le NO dans l’hémisphère Nord et vers le SO dans l’hémisphère Sud.

Les alizés soufflent au niveau des latitudes subtropicales (entre 5° et 30°)et créent constamment de la houle de vent. La rotation de la terre les fait dévier vers le NE dans l’hémisphère Nord et le SE dans l’hémisphère Sud.

Warm Current Cold Current Warm Local Current Cold Local Current

Area of upwelling

De grandes zones de courants font circuler l’eau chaude depuis l’Equateur et rapatrie l’eau froide des pôles. Agissant comme un grand régulateur thermique, les courants (et les vents) répartissent la chaleur reçue sur la Terre. Les courants de surface sont principalement régis par le vent et vont très vite ( de 10km à 220km par jour) alors que les courants de profondeur bougent à peine (1m par jour) et dépendent des différences de densité et de salinité de l’eau. Les courants de surface au large forment de grands cercles appelés gyres. Comme pour le vent, ils circulent dans le sens inverse des aiguilles d’une montre dans l’hémisphère N et inversement dans l’hémisphère S. Si le vent est leur moteur principal, les courants ne suivent pas exactement la même trajectoire à cause de la force de Coriolis. Les courants sont déviés vers la droite de la direction du vent dominant dans le sens inverse des aiguilles d’une montre dans l’hémisphère N et inversement dans l’hémisphère S. Le phénomène d’upwelling se produit là où on trouve un courant froid qui revient vers l’Equateur avec des alizés soufflant vers le large d’une côte. L’eau chaude est poussée vers le large tandis que de l’eau froide du fond vient la remplacer, généralement très riche en vie marine, ce qui est une chance pour ces côtes qui sont presque toujours désertiques.

Currents and Upwelling These vast moving belts of water convey warm water from the equator and return cold water from the poles. Like a big heat exchanger, currents (and winds) keep the earth evenly distributed with warmth. Surface currents are mainly wind driven and can move extremely quickly (from 10km up to 220km per day) while deep ocean currents barely move (1m per day) and work on differences in ocean density and salinity. Open ocean, wind driven surface currents form large round circulation patterns known as gyres. As with the wind, they circulate in a clockwise direction in the northern hemisphere and anti-clockwise in the south. While the wind is the major motivating force, the currents do not follow the exact same path, because the Coriolis effect steps in to alter the current’s course. Northern hemisphere currents will swing to the right (clockwise) of the dominant wind direction, while it’s left and anti-clockwise south of the equator. Wherever there is a cold current heading back to the equator combined with trade winds blowing away from the land, the phenomenon of upwelling occurs. Warmer surface water is driven offshore and colder water rises up from depth to replace it. This colder water is usually rich in biological species, which is fortunate because these areas of upwelling are almost exclusively situated next to deserts.

Wind strength measured with the Beaufort scale Force F0 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F9 F10 F11 F12

Strength calm light air light breeze gentle breeze moderate breeze fresh breeze strong breeze near gale gale strong gale storm violent storm hurricane

km/h Speed 0-1.5 1.6-6.3 6.4-11 12-19 20-29 30-39 40-50 51-61 62-74 75-87 88-101 102-117 118+

mph 0-1 1-3 4-7 8-12 13-18 19-24 25-31 32-38 39-46 47-54 55-63 64-73 74+

Land Actions Smoke rises vertically Smoke drifts slowly Wind felt on face; leaves rustle Twigs move; light flags unfurl Wind moves dust and paper; twigs move Small trees sway; wavelets on inland waters Large branches move; whistling in telegraph lines Whole trees sway; difficult to walk against wind Twigs break off trees; very difficult to walk Roof tiles blown down Trees uprooted; considerable damage to buildings Widespread damage to buildings Devastating damage

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INTRODUCTION

The main creator of rideable waves is wind blowing over the surface of the water. The wind comes in different strengths and goes by different names but essentially, it always has the same affect on wave creation. Wind blows across the surface of the globe from the four points of the compass and everything in between, but it also changes direction in the vertical plane, exerting a downward pressure on the surface of the sea. At first, this produces ripples on a calm surface, which are then easier for the wind to get a grip on and increase their size. This two-part process starts with the ripples or capillary waves, which are still small enough to be pulled back down by surface tension. As the ripples grow, small disturbances of rotating air form between the ripples adding more height to the waves, which in turn creates more uniform pockets of turbulence between the quickly growing waves. Surface tension is no longer strong enough to restore the rippling disturbance and gravity now attempts to push the waves back down. This self-perpetuating cycle increases wave height exponentially until gravity limits further growth and the wave reaches saturation point. The wave height can also be limited by white-capping, where storm force winds literally blow the tops off the cresting waves. The main factors that determine the size of the waves will be the strength and duration of the wind plus the fetch, meaning the distance over which the wind blows. Le principal facteur pour avoir des vagues surfables est l’ action du vent sur une étendue d’eau. Il y a toutes sortes de vents avec autant de noms différents, mais tous ont fondamentalement le même effet sur la création des vagues. Le vent souffle de toutes les directions possibles à la surface de la Terre, mais il peut aussi changer de direction sur le plan vertical, en exerçant une force vers le bas sur la mer. Cela produit au début de petites rides sur une surface calme, qui vont ensuite offrir plus de prise au vent, ce qui va faire augmenter leur taille. Ce processus comporte deux phases et commence par ces vaguelettes ou vagues capillaires, qui sont encore assez petites pour être retenues par la tension capillaire de l’eau. Alors que les vaguelettes grossissent,

ROGER SHARP

The Creation of Swell

The Peak, Donegal Bay des petits tourbillons d’air vont se former entre celles-ci, contribuant à la croissance des vagues, ce qui en retour donne de plus grandes poches de turbulence entre les vagues. La tension capillaire n’est alors plus assez forte pour empêcher ces perturbations et la gravité essaie maintenant de faire redescendre les vagues. Ce cycle s’entretient de luimême et augmente la taille des vagues de façon exponentielle jusqu’à ce que la gravité empêche d’aller plus loin et que la taille des vagues atteigne un seuil de saturation. Celle-ci peut également être limitée par le moutonnement, car par forte tempête le sommet des vagues peut être littéralement arraché par le vent. Les principaux facteurs qui déterminent la taille des vagues sont la force, la durée du vent, et le fetch, qui est la distance sur laquelle s’exerce le vent.

Starting as capillary ripples, waves will continue to grow as long as the wind keeps blowing, until gravity causes saturation point to be reached.

Swell Generation Groundswell Groundswell is defined as swell which has left the generating area and is propagating on its own, or “freewheeling”. Produced by mid-latitude depressions between 30º and 60º. These low pressures travel from the west to the east so therefore send out more W swells than E. Waves are not affected by the Coriolis force, as they are just travelling energy, not material. Waves travel in great circular routes around the globe. Groundswells are the most consistent, powerful and sizeable of the ocean swells and are capable of travelling vast distances. La houle de fond est une houle qui a quitté la zone qui l’a générée et qui se propage d’elle-même par gravité. Elle est produite par les dépressions aux latitudes moyennes entre 30 et 60 degrés. Ces dépressions se déplacent d’E en O et par conséquent génèrent plus de houle vers l’O et que vers l’E. Les vagues ne sont pas affectées par la force de Coriolis, car ce n’est que de l’énergie qui se déplace et non pas de la matière. Elles voyagent en formant des grands cercles concentriques tout autour de la planète. Les houles de fond sont les plus fréquentes, les plus puissantes et les plus hautes et peuvent se propager sur de très longues distances.

Open ocean swell over 15ft

30% of the time

Windswell Also called windsea, this type of swell still has the wind transferring energy from atmosphere to ocean, hopefully with enough fetch and duration to create rideable waves. Windswell is most prevalent where the east trades blow and its direction is totally governed by the wind. Most of the surf produced in the North Sea, Baltic and Mediterranean is courtesy of windswells, which are usually short lived, short period and disorganised, with little in the way of discernable swell lines. La houle de vent, appelée aussi mer du vent, ce type de houle se rencontre dans la zone de transfert d’énergie atmosphère-océan, et donnera des vagues surfables s’il y assez de fetch et que le vent souffle assez longtemps. Cette houle est présente dans les régions où soufflent les alizés, sa direction dépendant entièrement de celle du vent. La plupart des vagues rencontrées dans la mer du Nord, la Baltique et la Méditerranée sont de ce type, elles sont mal organisées et durent en général peu longtemps avec une période courte, les lignes étant mal définies.

The Stormrider Surf Guide Europe

20% of the time

Tropical Storm Swell Hurricane, cyclone or typhoon swells are technically groundswells, born in sub-tropical latitudes (10º to 30º) by depressions often travelling from east to west. This produces more E swells than W but any swell direction is possible. Tropical storms only form at certain times of the year when the temperature contrasts between air and sea are at a maximum. These unpredictable, seasonal swells can produce a significant amount of sizeable waves as the storms can be slow moving. Hurricanes, cyclones and typhoons are given people’s names from pre-determined alphabetical lists that alternate between male and female. Hurricanes are common off the east coast of North America, sending long-range swells to Europe.

Houle de cyclon – Ouragans, typhons et cyclones sont techniquement des houles de fond qui naissent aux latitudes subtropicales (entre 10º et 30º) grâce à des dépressions se déplaçant souvent d’E en O. Cela donne plus de houle d’E que d’O, mais toutes les directions restent possibles. Les dépressions tropicales ne se forment que pendant une partie de l’année lorsque le contraste thermique entre l’air et l’eau est à son maximum. Ces houles imprévisibles et saisonnières peuvent représenter une source importante de bonnes vagues lorsque les dépressions se déplacent lentement. Les cyclones ont chacun un nom donné selon un ordre alphabétique prédéterminé en alternant les prénoms féminins et masculins. Ils sont fréquents sur la côte E de l’Amérique du Nord et envoient de la houle très loin jusqu’en Europe.

THE CREATION OF SWELL AND SURF

Propagation, Dispersion and Grouping Once the wind has done its job and the waves begin to travel or propagate away from the source, they organise themselves into lines of swell. As the swell fans out, the waves lose some height, which happens at a set rate. This is called circumferential dispersion, and the further a swell travels, the more this process will cause it to spread out. The width it spreads out is directly proportional to the distance it has travelled. For every doubling of the propagation distance, the height reduces by about one-third, which doesn’t include other height reducing factors like white-capping and opposing winds in the propagation path. Radial dispersion is the term used to describe how swell cleans itself up into the orderly lines that surfers love to see hitting their local beach. This revolves around wave speed, which is governed by how far apart each wave is, known as wavelength. The longer the distance between two crests, the faster the waves will travel across the open ocean. When the swell is first created, many different wavelengths will be mixed in together, producing messy, disorganised waves. As the swell starts to propagate away, the faster waves with the longer wavelengths will progressively overtake the slower, shorter wavelength swells. Given enough time and distance, the faster swells will hit the coast first, bringing the clean, well-spaced corduroy lines that produce quality surf. The shorter wavelength swells will arrive later with less organisation and power, and some of the weaker, choppy waves won’t even make it at all. Differences in wavelength are also responsible for the creation of sets. Technically referred to as wave grouping, sets are the result of two different swells travelling in the same direction and merging together. When the peaks of two different wave-trains coincide, a larger wave will result. However, when the peak of one wave-train coincides with the trough of another, a cancelling out effect occurs, resulting in the dreaded lulls at the beach. There are other complicated influencing factors and most non-surfing oceanographers are theoretically dismissive of wave grouping, indicating that further research is necessary to understand sets. Une fois que le vent a fait son travail et que les vagues commencent à se propager en dehors de leur zone de création, elles vont s’organiser en formant des lignes de houle. Plus elles s’éloignent et plus elles perdent en taille, à un rythme prédéterminé.

When swells travels away from the storm those with a longer wavelength travel faster and overtake shorter wavelength swells.

On appelle ceci la dispersion concentrique. La zone de dispersion de la houle est directement proportionnelle à la distance depuis le départ de celle-ci. A chaque fois que cette distance double, la taille se trouve réduite d’un tiers. Il faut également tenir compte d’autres facteurs diminuant la taille des vagues, comme le moutonnement au large ou les vents contraires. La dispersion radiale est le terme usité pour décrire la façon dont la houle va s’ordonner pour donner les vagues propres que les surfers affectionnent. Tout dépend de la vitesse de la houle, qui est en relation avec la distance qui sépare chaque vague, appelée longueur d’onde. Plus celle-ci est grande, plus les vagues vont se propager vite au large. Pendant la phase de création de la houle, plusieurs longueurs d’onde différentes s’entrecroisent, ce qui donne une mer hachée. S’il y a suffisamment de distance et de temps de propagation, les houles les plus longues et les plus rapides vont donc aborder les côtes en premier, donnant du surf de qualité avec des lignes propres et bien espacées. Les vagues aux longueurs d’onde plus courtes vont arriver plus tard, moins ordonnées et moins puissantes, tandis que les vagues les plus faibles n’arriveront même pas à rejoindre la côte. Pendant la phase de propagation, les vagues avec la plus grande longueur d’onde vont alors progressivement doubler les autres. Les différences de longueur d’onde sont aussi à l’origine de l’existence de séries de vagues. Ce qu’on appelle scientifiquement le groupement de vagues est le résultat de deux houles voyageant dans la même direction et qui se superposent. Quand le sommet d’un train de houle coïncide avec le creux d’un autre, il se produit un effet d’annulation qui aplatit les vagues : ce sont les moments de calme que l’on ressent quand on surfe. Il y a d’autres facteurs complexes qui rentrent en jeu et la plupart des océanographes qui ne surfent pas n’ont pas encore établi de théorie valable pour expliquer les groupes de vagues, indiquant qu’il faut continuer à faire des recherches pour comprendre la formation des séries.

The Creation of Surf Speed, Shoaling and Refraction

La longueur d’onde est le facteur principal déterminant la vitesse des vagues. Une équation simple permet de la calculer en eaux profondes : elle est égale à la longueur d’onde divisée par la période (temps mis entre une vague et la suivante). Une grosse houle longue bien espacée va par exemple se déplacer à une vitesse allant jusqu’à 40kmh.

The effect of shallowing water wavelength

wave height

Wavelengths are also a major factor in determining the speed of waves. A straightforward equation is used for the velocity of deep water waves. Speed is equal to the wavelength divided by the period – the time it takes for two waves to pass a fixed point. This means that a well spaced, long period, big swell will travel at up to 40kmh (25mph). As waves approach the coast and come in contact with the sea floor, they slow down, but only lose a little bit of energy to friction. The excess speed or velocity energy is channelled into making the waves higher, which happens when they start to feel the bottom at depths around one half of their wavelength. Unlike open ocean swell, the shallower the water, the slower a wave will travel, squashing together and forcing the wavelength to shorten, as the period must remain constant throughout the swell. Similar to traffic approaching a bottleneck, this slowing and bunching is termed shoaling, it increases wave height and the effect is more pronounced the steeper the shelf. If a section of one swell starts to feel the bottom while an adjacent section does not, then it will start to refract (bend) the swell. Depending on the swell direction, refraction will bend the swell one of two ways. If an obstacle (reef) is situated next to deep water, and a swell hits it straight on, then the part of the swell that hits the reef will slow down while the rest of the swell line will maintain speed. This faster travelling section will start to bend in towards the reef, resulting in concave refraction. The energy gets concentrated towards the peak, making the wave bigger, more sucky and bowly, but it often makes the wave shorter or far smaller on the inside. Convex refraction describes what happens at many classic pointbreaks, especially if they are at right angles to the prevailing swell direction. The swell lines squash together at one end as they slow down and break, whilst the other end keeps going faster resulting in a fanned-out appearance. Convex refraction spreads the wave energy over a wider area, so power and size will be less than in a concave set-up but the wave will be a long, walled-up type ride and sometimes even get bigger down the line.

As waves propogate into shallow water they slow down, the wavelength is shortened and the wave height rises.

Lorsque les vagues approchent de la côte, elles commencent à ressentir le fond et vont ralentir, mais ne perdent que relativement peu de leur énergie à cause du frottement sur le fond. Cette énergie horizontale va se transformer progressivement pour faire augmenter la taille des vagues, lorsque celles-ci arrivent dans des profondeurs équivalant à la moitié de leur longueur d’onde. Moins il y a de fond, plus la vague ralentit, mais comme pour une même houle la période reste constante, les lignes sont forcées de se resserrer et la longueur d’onde se réduit d’autant. C’est la phase d’atterrissement de la houle, caractérisée par un ralentissement et un gonflement, un peu comme le trafic routier à l’approche d’un goulet d’étranglement. Son ampleur dépend de la pente du relief sous-marin. Si une partie de la houle commence à ressentir le fond alors qu’une autre adjacente ne le ressent pas, la houle va s’incurver: c’est la réfraction. Selon la direction de la houle, elle va s’effectuer dans un sens ou dans l’autre. Si un obstacle (un haut-fond) se trouve à côté d’une zone d’eau profonde, et qu’une ligne de houle vient frapper cet obstacle, la partie de la vague heurtant l’obstacle va ralentir tandis que l’autre va continuer à progresser en conservant sa vitesse. Cette partie va petit à petit s’aligner sur le reef en tournant : c’est la réfraction concave. L’énergie est concentrée sur le pic, faisant grossir la vague, en aspirant de l’eau devant et en faisant un bowl, la vague étant souvent plus courte et beaucoup plus petite à l’inside. La réfraction convexe est ce qui se passe sur de nombreux pointbreaks de qualité, surtout si la pointe est à angle droit par rapport à la direction de la houle. Les lignes de houle se resserrent et ralentissent à l’endroit où les vagues déferlent, tandis que l’épaule continue à avancer plus vite, comme un éventail. L’énergie de la vague est dispersée sur une plus grande zone donc c’est souvent moins gros et moins puissant que pour la réfraction concave, mais on aura de longs murs bien redressés qui peuvent parfois prendre de la taille au fur et à mesure.

The Stormrider Surf Guide Europe

INTRODUCTION

Breaking Waves and Bathymetry Waves will break when the bottom part of the wave is slowed down so much that the top of the wave overtakes it and spills forward. A simple equation is used, stating that a wave will break in water at a depth of 1.3 times the wave height. This equation can be affected by other factors such as wind, swell type and beach slope. An offshore wind will hold up and delay the top of the wave from overtaking the bottom, resulting in the wave breaking in shallower water. Onshore winds have the opposite effect and can push the waves over before they reach the critical depth. Different types of swell may break in different depths of water. Fast, linedup groundswell will get to shallower water before breaking while short wavelength, choppy windswell is more likely to crumble in deeper water. A gently sloping beach will cause waves to break prematurely while a steep slope makes them overshoot their normal breaking depth. Combining all these factors, a small, onshore, windswell wave, on a flat beach would break in very deep water, while a large groundswell in an offshore wind, on a steep reef would break in very shallow water. Bathymetry refers to sea floor features like reefs and points (that are part of the refraction process). Two other important bathymetric features from a surfer’s point of view are beaches and rivermouths. Beachbreaks need a certain shape of sandbar to provide a good forum for rideable waves. If the sand under the waves was totally flat and featureless, then when swell arrived it would almost certainly close-out. An ideal sandbar formation will be vaguely triangular with slightly deeper water on either side of the bar. This is formed when a wave breaks on a bar and starts pushing water towards the beach, picking up sand along the way. The water starts to get pushed sideways until it loses forward momentum and looks for a way back out to sea. This is where rips and currents form, aiding the circulation of water and sand. The rip gouges out a handy paddling channel and deposits more sand out towards the peak for more swell to focus upon. Rivermouths work on the same principle whereby sand is constantly deposited at the sandbar, and are far more reliable for well-shaped bathymetry. Une vague va se mettre à déferler lorsque le bas de la vague est tellement freiné que le haut continue sa course vers l’avant et bascule. On utilise une équation simple : une vague va déferler lorsqu’elle atteint une profondeur égale à 1.3 fois sa hauteur. D’autres facteurs peuvent perturber cette théorie, comme le vent, le type de houle et la déclivité de la plage. Un vent offshore va retenir le haut de la vague qui va casser avec

Wave Breaking on Gently Sloping Beach

wave height

when depth = 1.3 x wave height top of wave begins to overtake bottom

Wave Breaking on Abrupt Reef wave height

wave jacks forward as depth suddenly changes top of wave begins to overtake bottom

du retard, donc dans une eau moins profonde. Le vent onshore produit l’effet inverse et peut faire déferler les vagues avant le fameux seuil de profondeur. Le type de la houle influe aussi sur la profondeur de déferlement : une houle de fond bien alignée cassera dans moins de fond qu’une houle courte de vent, qui aura à déferler mollement plus au large. Une plage inclinée en pente douce fera casser les vagues prématurément, tandis qu’un fond remontant de façon abrupte les fera casser au dernier moment. En combinant tous ces facteurs, on peut dire qu’une petite vague de vent onshore sur une plage plate cassera dans beaucoup d’eau, tandis qu’une houle de fond par vent offshore remontant sur un reef abrupt cassera dans très peu de fond. La bathymétrie regroupe tout ce qui concerne la configuration des fonds sous-marins, comme les reefs

A gently sloping beach will usually create mushy, crumbling type waves that break in water deeper than the optimum depth of 1.3 x wave height. A steep slope or reef will form hollow, pitching waves in shallower water.

et les pointes (qui font partie du processus de réfraction). De ce point de vue, les plages et les embouchures de rivière sont importantes aux yeux des surfers. Les beachbreaks demandent de bons bancs de sable pour avoir de bonnes vagues pour le surf. Si le sable était complètement plat et homogène, on aurait certainement que des close-out… Un banc de sable idéal serait de forme vaguement triangulaire, avec juste un peu plus de profondeur de chaque côté. De tels bancs se forment sous l’action des vagues, qui en déferlant ramènent de l’eau et du sable vers le bord. L’eau commence à être repoussée de côté jusqu’à ce qu’elle perde de la vitesse et soit contrainte à retrouver une sortie pour rejoindre le large. C’est ce qui forme les courants, qui permettent la circulation de l’eau et du sable. Ils forment des passes utiles pour les surfers et déposent du sable au pic, où viendront se concentrer d’autres vagues à leur tour. Les embouchures fonctionnent selon le même principe car le sable est constamment redéposé sur le banc, et cette configuration est beaucoup plus stable.

Tides

Les marées sont le résultat de la force d’attraction de la Lune, qui crée un renflement sur la mer directement dans son axe, ainsi que du côté opposé pour maintenir l’équilibre de la Terre dans sa rotation. Ces zones correspondent aux marées hautes tandis que celles qui en sont le plus éloignées correspondent aux marées basses. La Terre tourne autour de son axe donc tous les points à la surface des océans vont subir l’influence des marées au moins une fois par jour. Pendant le temps que met la Lune pour tourner autour de la Terre (le mois lunaire), la Lune a quatre phases : opposition, quadrature, conjonction et quadrature (de nouveau). Le Soleil exerce une force d’attraction moindre sur les océans, mais lorsqu’il est aligné avec la Lune (opposition ou conjonction)les forces s’ajoutent pour créer de fortes marées, qu’on appelle vives eaux. Quand le Soleil fait un angle de 90° avec la Lune (quadrature), les deux astres produisent des effets sur la mer à angle droit par rapport à eux. La surface des océans est alors aplanie, ce sont les mortes eaux.

Tidal Range Depending on latitude and underwater topography, tidal ranges (heights) vary massively from one region to another. Most seas have minimum tides whereas places like the funnel shaped Severn Estuary has the largest tidal

The Stormrider Surf Guide Europe

WILLY URIBE

Tides are the result of the moon’s gravitational force producing a bulge in the sea, directly in line with the moon’s position. An equal bulge forms on the opposite side of the earth to balance the planet out during orbit. The two bulges are the high tides and the areas in between are the low tides. The earth spins on its axis and every point on the ocean’s surface will experience at least one of these bulges every day. Throughout the time it takes for the earth and moon to go round each other (a lunar month), the moon has four phases: opposition, quadrature, conjunction and quadrature (again). The sun has a smaller gravitational pull on the oceans, which also produces bulges. So when the sun and the moon are lined up (in opposition or conjunction), their bulges are added together, making the tides bigger, known as spring tides. When the sun is at an angle of 90º to the moon (quadrature), they create bulges at right angles to each other. The water is evened out over the earth’s oceans, producing neap tides.

País Vasco, Spain

range in Europe with a maximum range of 15.9m. Micro-tidal range means that spring tides never exceed 2m. Even this small amplitude will affect most spots, especially shallow reefs, but the tide won’t be the key factor. Under 1m the effect will be insignificant and between 1-2m, some sensitive spots won’t work on all tides. For meso-tidal range, spring tides will oscillate between 2.3m and 4.3m, meaning a tide table is essential. Many tide sensitive spots will only work for about one third of the tide (low, mid or high). A good deal of the European coast experiences macro-tidal ranges over 4.6m for spring tides including Great Britain and France (where tidal bores occur in rivers and are regularly surfed). These large tide heights result in extremely unstable surf conditions, where tide will be the main priority, rather than the swell and wind.

A 10ft wave should break in 13ft of water but a sudden depth change, offshore winds and a fast moving groundswell can greatly reduce the breaking depth before taking tide into consideration.

TIDES

The third and fourth hours each move three twelfths of the tide height, whereas the first and last hours only move one twelfths.

tide height in twelfths

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la marée monte et descend par paliers suivant une règle de douzièmes. Elle prend 50% de sa hauteur entre la 3e et la 4e heure. Le graphique ci-dessous montre un système semi-diurne, de la marée basse à la marée haute et inversement pendant 12 heures.

Tidal Types

Left – Larger tides (spring tides) occur when the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun are combined in line. Smaller tides (neap tides) happen when the sun and the moon are at right angles to the earth evening out the bulge.

Because of the earth’s rotation, different latitudes and uneven underwater topography, there are four types of tides. Semi-diurnal ‘even’ applies to all Atlantic Europe and is the most commonly occurring, with two high tides and two low tides every day that are of the same range. Semi-diurnal ‘odd’ also has two tides but the daily range is different. Diurnal refers to areas that only have one tide per day, a feature of some Mediterranean coastlines. Mixed tide describes those tropical latitudes where some days have two tides and some days only one. A cause de la rotation terrestre, des différentes latitudes et de la configuration irrégulière des fonds, il existe quatre types de marées. Le type semi-diurne régulier s’applique partout sur les côtes atlantiques en Europe, c’est le type le plus répandu, avec deux marées hautes et deux marées basses par jour de même amplitude. Le type semi-diurne irrégulier comporte aussi deux marées mais leur amplitude est différente. Le type diurne se réfère aux zones avec une seule marée par jour, comme sur certaines côtes méditerranéennes. Les marées mixtes existent sous les tropiques avec certains jours deux marées et d’autres une seule.

European Tides

11 Norwegian Sea

10

Elle varie énormément d’une région à l’autre en fonction de la latitude et de la configuration des fonds. La plupart des mers ont de faibles marées, tandis que certains endroits comme l’estuaire de la Severn, en forme d’entonnoir, a le record d’amplitude de marée en Europe avec 15.90m. Les régions avec des micro-marées ont des amplitudes inférieures à 2m par vives eaux. De si faibles variations ont quand même une influence sur la plupart des spots, surtout les reefs qui ont peu d’eau, mais la marée ne sera pas le facteur prépondérant. En-dessous d’un mètre l’influence est assez négligeable et entre 1 et 2m certains spots sensibles ne marcheront plus à toutes les marées. Les marées d’amplitude moyenne oscillent entre 2.3m et 4.3m, un calendrier des marées est alors indispensable. De nombreux spots sensibles ne marcheront qu’environ pendant un tiers de la marée (basse, mi-marée ou haute). Une bonne partie des côtes européennes ont des fortes marées de plus de 4.6m par vives eaux comme en France ou en GrandeBretagne (où les mascarets dans les rivières sont surfés fréquemment). Ces grandes marées donne des conditions de surf extrêmement instables, où l’état de la marée est le facteur-clé, devant le vent ou la houle.

North Sea

5

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Tide Cycle

Le cycle des maréesLe cycle des marées alterne entre le montant (jusant) et descendant (reflux). Comme une journée lunaire est de 24hr50mn, la durée moyenne d’une marée est de 12hr25mn. Les horaires des marées sont décalés un peu plus tard tous les jours et

0 11 Tropic of Cancer

10

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>4m

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Key Introduction Pages Statistics

Temperatures Conversions Farenheit (ºF) Celsius (ºC)

Tables are divided into 6 blocks of 2 months, the figures given are bi-monthly averages, the same figure applies to both months. Minimum and maximum temperatures usually have a variation of ±5ºC.

110 100 90 80

Wetsuit charts Average wetsuit requirements for the time of year. Temp ºC 23

      Suit +Boots +Gloves +Hood

6/5

5/4

4/3

• • •

• optional optional

•

3/2

Springsuit Boardshorts

40 30 20

60 50 40 30 20

10 0 -10

10 0

Subject to personal comfort variation.

-18

Break Map Pages Stormrider Symbols

Spot Map Scale: 1 square = 10km (6mi)

Optimum Wind Direction Northwest (NW)

North (N)

Northeast (NE)



West (W) Southwest (SW)

East (E)

South (S)

Arrow indicates offshore wind direction.

Southeast (SE)

Tides Indicates the presence of rideable waves, at relevant tidal stages.

'

&' ' ' ' "

All tides

Low only

High only

Mid tide

Not low

Not high

Optimum tide, if more specific, is usually referred to in the text.

Wave Direction and Type Wave direction is indicated by the direction of the lines. Rights

R&L Peak

Lefts



!  ' $' % ' ' '  ' ' # ' '

Consistent peak over either sand or reef Man-made break - Eg groyne, jetty or pier Pointbreak Rivermouth or other similar feature

Break Reports and Spot Maps Describe the surf and the environment: consistency; crowds; parking; facilities and access. Consistency There are three terms commonly used to describe the consistency of a spot: high breaks on a weekly basis. ie: more than 52 times a year. medium breaks on a monthly basis. ie: between 12-52 times a year. low breaks on an annual basis. ie: less than 12 times a year.

Land features are indicated by the shape of the solid part of the symbol.

Crowds There are five self explanatory terms commonly used to describe the crowd factor: always crowded; often crowded; sometimes crowded; rarely crowded; solo surfing.

Bottom Type

Distance Conversion

Beachbreak with shifting peaks

' '' ' ' '  Sand

Flat rock shelf

+ sand

Uneven + sand reef

Cobblestone + sand or boulder reef

  

















































Swell Direction Window

Wave Face Measurements

Catchment of all swells between two compass points reading in a clockwise direction.

Feet (ft)

NE

Eg – Receives swell from a north east around to south east direction.

SE

Concentric lines represent approaching swells. Solid black represents land and/or a blocked swell direction.

: 

30+























Service Locators

Metres (m) 10+

huge

Surf Shop Surf Camp

18

6

triple overhead

12

4

double overhead

6

2

head high

Camp & School Board Shaper

Surf School

Wave Size Range

4

1.3

chest high

3

1

waist high

Travel Agency

Based on wave face measurements (subject to regional interpretive variation).

1

0.3

knee high

Bar/Restaurant

0

0

flat

Overland

 

Upper number denotes maximum rideable size. Lower number denotes minimum rideable size.

eBooks

More eBooks are being added all the time. Please check the website for the latest updates.

The yellow service locators on spot maps reference further infomation in the Yellow Pages p.196-211

www.lowpressure.co.uk

THE STORMRIDER SURF GUIDE

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Key Introduction Pages Statistics

Temperatures Conversions Farenheit (ºF) Celsius (ºC)

Tables are divided into 6 blocks of 2 months, the figures given are bi-monthly averages, the same figure applies to both months. Minimum and maximum temperatures usually have a variation of ±5ºC.

110 100 90 80

Wetsuit charts Average wetsuit requirements for the time of year. Temp ºC 23

      Suit +Boots +Gloves +Hood

6/5

5/4

4/3

• • •

• optional optional

•

3/2

Springsuit Boardshorts

40 30 20

60 50 40 30 20

10 0 -10

10 0

Subject to personal comfort variation.

-18

Break Map Pages Stormrider Symbols

Spot Map Scale: 1 square = 10km (6mi)

Optimum Wind Direction Northwest (NW)

North (N)

Northeast (NE)



West (W) Southwest (SW)

East (E)

South (S)

Arrow indicates offshore wind direction.

Southeast (SE)

Tides Indicates the presence of rideable waves, at relevant tidal stages.

'

&' ' ' ' "

All tides

Low only

High only

Mid tide

Not low

Not high

Optimum tide, if more specific, is usually referred to in the text.

Wave Direction and Type Wave direction is indicated by the direction of the lines. Rights

R&L Peak

Lefts



!  ' $' % ' ' '  ' ' # ' '

Consistent peak over either sand or reef Man-made break - Eg groyne, jetty or pier Pointbreak Rivermouth or other similar feature

Break Reports and Spot Maps Describe the surf and the environment: consistency; crowds; parking; facilities and access. Consistency There are three terms commonly used to describe the consistency of a spot: high breaks on a weekly basis. ie: more than 52 times a year. medium breaks on a monthly basis. ie: between 12-52 times a year. low breaks on an annual basis. ie: less than 12 times a year.

Land features are indicated by the shape of the solid part of the symbol.

Crowds There are five self explanatory terms commonly used to describe the crowd factor: always crowded; often crowded; sometimes crowded; rarely crowded; solo surfing.

Bottom Type

Distance Conversion

Beachbreak with shifting peaks

' '' ' ' '  Sand

Flat rock shelf

+ sand

Uneven + sand reef

Cobblestone + sand or boulder reef

  

















































Swell Direction Window

Wave Face Measurements

Catchment of all swells between two compass points reading in a clockwise direction.

Feet (ft)

NE

Eg – Receives swell from a north east around to south east direction.

SE

Concentric lines represent approaching swells. Solid black represents land and/or a blocked swell direction.

: 

30+























Service Locators

Metres (m) 10+

huge

Surf Shop Surf Camp

18

6

triple overhead

12

4

double overhead

6

2

head high

Camp & School Board Shaper

Surf School

Wave Size Range

4

1.3

chest high

3

1

waist high

Travel Agency

Based on wave face measurements (subject to regional interpretive variation).

1

0.3

knee high

Bar/Restaurant

0

0

flat

Overland

 

Upper number denotes maximum rideable size. Lower number denotes minimum rideable size.

eBooks

More eBooks are being added all the time. Please check the website for the latest updates.

The yellow service locators on spot maps reference further infomation in the Yellow Pages p.196-211

www.lowpressure.co.uk

THE STORMRIDER SURF GUIDE

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Key Introduction Pages Statistics

Temperatures Conversions Farenheit (ºF) Celsius (ºC)

Tables are divided into 6 blocks of 2 months, the figures given are bi-monthly averages, the same figure applies to both months. Minimum and maximum temperatures usually have a variation of ±5ºC.

110 100 90 80

Wetsuit charts Average wetsuit requirements for the time of year. Temp ºC 23

      Suit +Boots +Gloves +Hood

6/5

5/4

4/3

• • •

• optional optional

•

3/2

Springsuit Boardshorts

40 30 20

60 50 40 30 20

10 0 -10

10 0

Subject to personal comfort variation.

-18

Break Map Pages Stormrider Symbols

Spot Map Scale: 1 square = 10km (6mi)

Optimum Wind Direction Northwest (NW)

North (N)

Northeast (NE)



West (W) Southwest (SW)

East (E)

South (S)

Arrow indicates offshore wind direction.

Southeast (SE)

Tides Indicates the presence of rideable waves, at relevant tidal stages.

'

&' ' ' ' "

All tides

Low only

High only

Mid tide

Not low

Not high

Optimum tide, if more specific, is usually referred to in the text.

Wave Direction and Type Wave direction is indicated by the direction of the lines. Rights

R&L Peak

Lefts



!  ' $' % ' ' '  ' ' # ' '

Consistent peak over either sand or reef Man-made break - Eg groyne, jetty or pier Pointbreak Rivermouth or other similar feature

Break Reports and Spot Maps Describe the surf and the environment: consistency; crowds; parking; facilities and access. Consistency There are three terms commonly used to describe the consistency of a spot: high breaks on a weekly basis. ie: more than 52 times a year. medium breaks on a monthly basis. ie: between 12-52 times a year. low breaks on an annual basis. ie: less than 12 times a year.

Land features are indicated by the shape of the solid part of the symbol.

Crowds There are five self explanatory terms commonly used to describe the crowd factor: always crowded; often crowded; sometimes crowded; rarely crowded; solo surfing.

Bottom Type

Distance Conversion

Beachbreak with shifting peaks

' '' ' ' '  Sand

Flat rock shelf

+ sand

Uneven + sand reef

Cobblestone + sand or boulder reef

  

















































Swell Direction Window

Wave Face Measurements

Catchment of all swells between two compass points reading in a clockwise direction.

Feet (ft)

NE

Eg – Receives swell from a north east around to south east direction.

SE

Concentric lines represent approaching swells. Solid black represents land and/or a blocked swell direction.

: 

30+























Service Locators

Metres (m) 10+

huge

Surf Shop Surf Camp

18

6

triple overhead

12

4

double overhead

6

2

head high

Camp & School Board Shaper

Surf School

Wave Size Range

4

1.3

chest high

3

1

waist high

Travel Agency

Based on wave face measurements (subject to regional interpretive variation).

1

0.3

knee high

Bar/Restaurant

0

0

flat

Overland

 

Upper number denotes maximum rideable size. Lower number denotes minimum rideable size.

eBooks

More eBooks are being added all the time. Please check the website for the latest updates.

The yellow service locators on spot maps reference further infomation in the Yellow Pages p.196-211

www.lowpressure.co.uk

THE STORMRIDER SURF GUIDE

England

ENGLAND

The Surf England has exposure to groundswell on most of its coastline. Surfable waves abound with the exception of the Irish Sea coast in the NW of the country. SW to NW Atlantic swells and N swells coming down the North Sea are what surfers live for, but there are also a range of different windswell options around the less fancied south and east coasts. SW winds predominate, so north-facing coasts are best placed to groom the booming winter swells while summer is inconsistent on all coasts. La plupart des côtes de l’Angleterre sont exposées aux houles longues. Il y a des vagues surfables partout sauf sur la côte de la Mer d’Irlande dans le NO du pays. La vie du surfer anglais dépend des houles de SO à NO produites par l’Atlantique et des houles de N venant de la Mer du Nord, mais il existe aussi toute une série d’options par houle de vent sur les côtes S et E moins connues. Le vent dominant est de SO, les côtes exposées NO étant donc les mieux orientées pour lisser les houles puissantes d’hiver tandis que les vagues se font rares l’été quelle que soit l’exposition.

The West Country One of the most surfed areas is North Devon. The consistent west-facing beachbreaks, in particular the fabled low tide barrels at Croyde, are rarely empty as locals, and visitors from as far afield as London try to get their fix. The other large beginner-friendly beaches thankfully absorb the numbers well. The whole west-facing coast of Devon and Cornwall favours W/SW swell and winds in the E quadrant. When big W swells close out the open beaches and the wind is in the S the north-facing coast of Devon hides some classy gems. The open beaches are reliable year round, the sheltered spots are winter only and as with most of the British Isles, September to November is prime time. The coast of North Cornwall is backed by large tracts of National Trust land and has been spared the development that’s blighted the county further south. The area is home to the few west-facing reefs in the country and during big winter swells the deep shelter, north-facing coves come into their own, turning stormy SW swells into classy beachbreak peaks. The well maintained coast path is worth the trip as the epic coastline is one of the most dramatic in the UK. Handles both small summer swells on the beaches and winter storms at some semi-secret points and reefs. The polar opposite to the dark and moody north of the county, West Cornwall may as well be called Summer County. With its mild climate and consistent waves it’s the most popular surfer and tourist destination in the whole country, which means one thing for the summer months – crowds. Outside of the summer months clean W/SW swells are readily tackled by

keen local crews and clued in travellers. The SCOTLAND area is generally a small wave destination, Newcastle once the swell is double overhead there are upon Tyne very few spots, with the exception of the Cribber, that can handle it. Scarborough South Cornwall and Devon’s breaks Kingston upon Hull are less consistent than their north coast Manchester counterparts but what they lack in consistency, they make up for in quality. Porthleven, one of ENGLAND England’s finest reefs, is in the area. This coast Birmingham usually needs an element of S in the Atlantic swells, although a massive W will wrap in, WALES as will a NW at a few reefs. Southerly swells London Bristol from Biscay lows can also light up the area’s diverse breaks. The dominant SW airflow means onshores are a major problem in the Brighton Newquay Plymouth area. Easterly windswells coming down the English Channel can also provide waves for the desperate. Summer can be painfully flat, September onwards can be rewarding but it depends on the track of the lows, if the lows are running north then Cornwall’s south coast lays dormant. Le Devon Nord est une des régions les plus surfées. Les beachbreaks orientés O marchent souvent, notamment Croyde et ses fameux tubes à marée basse ; il y a souvent du monde, venant chercher ici sa dose de surf, des locaux et des surfers qui font le voyage même depuis Londres. Heureusement, les autres plages plus adaptées aux débutants répartissent bien la foule. Toute la côte exposée O du Devon et de Cornouailles marche bien avec des houles d’O-SO et des vents de secteur E. Les grosses houles d’O font saturer les beachbreaks exposés, et si le vent est S la côte N du Devon recèle alors quelques spots d’exception. Les plages exposées fonctionnent toute l’année, les spots de repli ne marchant qu’en hiver, et comme pour le reste des Iles Britanniques, la meilleure période s’étale de Newquay septembre à novembre. SURF STATISTICS J/F M/A M/J J/A S/O N/D La côte de Cornouailles Nord comporte Dominant swell SW-NW SW-NW SW-NW SW-NW SW-NW SW-NW de grandes zones appartenant au National Trust, Swell size (ft) 7 6 4 2 5-6 6-7 échappant ainsi au développement qui est venu Consistency (%) 40 70 70 60 80 50 gâcher les paysages du Comté plus au Sud. C’est Dominant wind S-NW S-NW S-NW SW-NW S-NW S-NW Average force F5 F4-F5 F4 F4 F4-F5 F5 dans cette région que l’on trouve les quelques rares Consistency (%) 65 56 61 59 63 66 reefs orientés O dans le pays, avec également des Water temp.(ºC) 9 10 12 16 14 11 criques très abritées orientées N qui se mettent à Wetsuit fonctionner pendant les grosses houles d’hiver, transformant les houles de tempête de SO en de

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Croyde Beach

The Stormrider Guide Europe

TIM NUNN

One of the most consistent and therefore crowded beaches in the southwest, Croyde is renowned for decent power and low tide tubes.

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4HE 5+S lRST SURFER WAS QUITE POSSIBLY A LAD CALLED .IGEL /XENDEW WHOLEARNTTHESUBLIMEARTIN7AIKIKIINUNDER THETUTELAGEOFLEGEND$UKE+AHANAMOKU (IS2OYAL(IGHNESS%DWARD0RINCEOF7ALESWASHOTONHIS HEELS )N  HE ALSO SPENT THREE DAYS IN (AWAII CANOEING AND SURlNG MADLY INITIALLY IN TANDEM LATER ALONE !S *OSEPH "RENNANRECOUNTSINHISBIOGRAPHY4HE$UKEh&ORSEVERALHOURS THE $UKE WORKED PATIENTLY EXPLAINING AND DEMONSTRATING "Y LATERTHATAFTERNOONTHEPRINCEHADBECOMEQUITEADEPT FALLING ONLY OCCASIONALLY (E HAD QUICKLY BECOME A DEVOTEE AND JUST COULD NOT GET ENOUGHv 4HE DAY HE LEFT !PRIL TH  A MESSAGEWASSENTFROMTHEROYALYACHT2ENOWNTOTHE"RITISH CONSUL )T READ h(IS 2OYAL (IGHNESS HAS ENJOYED HIS VISIT TO (ONOLULU IMMENSELY (E WAS ESPECIALLY DELIGHTED WITH THE SURlNG(EWASFRIGHTFULLYKEENABOUTITv !FTER .IGEL /XENDEW RETURNED HE TOLD SOME FRIENDS ABOUT HISEXPERIENCEANDTHE@)SLAND3URF#LUBWASFORMEDON*ERSEY IN  /XENDEW -ARTIN AND 'ORDON RODE THE SHOREBREAK AT &IVE -ILE 2OAD THAT YEAR ON SHORT WOODEN BODYBOARDS 4HE lRST RECORDED STAND UP RIDE IN THE "RITISH )SLES WAS BY !RCHIE -AYNE SOMETIMEINTHEMID@S BUTAFTERTHESE lRST mEDGLING EFFORTS THERE APPEARS TO HAVE BEEN A DORMANT PERIOD FOR NEARLY FOURDECADES 3URlNG BECAME POPULAR IN #ORNWALL WHENTWOCULTURALELEMENTSFUSED&IRSTLY FOLLOWING THE CATASTROPHIC NUMBER OF DROWNINGS ON 7EST #OUNTRY BEACHES IN THE@S THE3URF,IFE3AVING!SSOCIATION WAS ESTABLISHED )N  .EWQUAYS 2ESTORMEL #OUNCIL WAS THE lRST TO TAKE ON FULL TIME LIFEGUARDS WITH THEIR HOLLOW SURFSKIS AND BY  THE lRST WOODEN PADDLE BOARDS HAD BECOME WIDESPREAD INLIFESAVERSHUTSUPANDDOWNTHECOAST %NTERTHE!USSIES)N"OB(EAD )AN 4ILEY *OHN #AMPBELL AND 7ARREN 0IP3TAFlERIRIDINGHISHOME MADE -ITCHELL WERE FOUR LIFEGUARDS FROM LONGBOARDAT.EWQUAY CIRCA4HE 3YDNEYS !VALON 3URF #LUB IN "RITAIN (AWAIIANSALSOSENTOVERALONGBOARD FORTHEHOLIDAYSEASON/NECHILLY!PRIL FORSURFERSTOUSE BUTTHESTO@S MORNING NOT LONG AFTER ARRIVING THEY WEREAPERIODOFINACTIVITYFORTHE"RITISH PADDLED OUT AT 'REAT 7ESTERN BEACH SURFSCENE

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Key Introduction Pages Statistics

Temperatures Conversions Farenheit (ºF) Celsius (ºC)

Tables are divided into 6 blocks of 2 months, the figures given are bi-monthly averages, the same figure applies to both months. Minimum and maximum temperatures usually have a variation of ±5ºC.

110 100 90 80

Wetsuit charts Average wetsuit requirements for the time of year. Temp ºC 23

      Suit +Boots +Gloves +Hood

6/5

5/4

4/3

• • •

• optional optional

•

3/2

Springsuit Boardshorts

40 30 20

60 50 40 30 20

10 0 -10

10 0

Subject to personal comfort variation.

-18

Break Map Pages Stormrider Symbols

Spot Map Scale: 1 square = 10km (6mi)

Optimum Wind Direction Northwest (NW)

North (N)

Northeast (NE)



West (W) Southwest (SW)

East (E)

South (S)

Arrow indicates offshore wind direction.

Southeast (SE)

Tides Indicates the presence of rideable waves, at relevant tidal stages.

'

&' ' ' ' "

All tides

Low only

High only

Mid tide

Not low

Not high

Optimum tide, if more specific, is usually referred to in the text.

Wave Direction and Type Wave direction is indicated by the direction of the lines. Rights

R&L Peak

Lefts



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Consistent peak over either sand or reef Man-made break - Eg groyne, jetty or pier Pointbreak Rivermouth or other similar feature

Break Reports and Spot Maps Describe the surf and the environment: consistency; crowds; parking; facilities and access. Consistency There are three terms commonly used to describe the consistency of a spot: high breaks on a weekly basis. ie: more than 52 times a year. medium breaks on a monthly basis. ie: between 12-52 times a year. low breaks on an annual basis. ie: less than 12 times a year.

Land features are indicated by the shape of the solid part of the symbol.

Crowds There are five self explanatory terms commonly used to describe the crowd factor: always crowded; often crowded; sometimes crowded; rarely crowded; solo surfing.

Bottom Type

Distance Conversion

Beachbreak with shifting peaks

' '' ' ' '  Sand

Flat rock shelf

+ sand

Uneven + sand reef

Cobblestone + sand or boulder reef

  

















































Swell Direction Window

Wave Face Measurements

Catchment of all swells between two compass points reading in a clockwise direction.

Feet (ft)

NE

Eg – Receives swell from a north east around to south east direction.

SE

Concentric lines represent approaching swells. Solid black represents land and/or a blocked swell direction.

: 

30+























Service Locators

Metres (m) 10+

huge

Surf Shop Surf Camp

18

6

triple overhead

12

4

double overhead

6

2

head high

Camp & School Board Shaper

Surf School

Wave Size Range

4

1.3

chest high

3

1

waist high

Travel Agency

Based on wave face measurements (subject to regional interpretive variation).

1

0.3

knee high

Bar/Restaurant

0

0

flat

Overland

 

Upper number denotes maximum rideable size. Lower number denotes minimum rideable size.

eBooks

More eBooks are being added all the time. Please check the website for the latest updates.

The yellow service locators on spot maps reference further infomation in the Yellow Pages p.196-211

www.lowpressure.co.uk

THE STORMRIDER SURF GUIDE

Scotland

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%ROSION >ÃÈÛiÊÃ̜À“Ã]Ê>ÃʘœÌi`Ê>LœÛi]ÊL>ÌÌiÀÊ-VœÌ>˜`Ê>˜`Ê̅iÊVœ>Ã̏ˆ˜iÊÌ>ŽiÃÊ>Ê Li>̈˜}°Ê Ûi˜Ê܈̅ÊÃÕV…ÊÃÌÀœ˜}ÊÜ>ÛiÊ>V̈œ˜Ê̅iÊ-VœÌ̈ÅÊVœ>ÃÌʈÃÊÀi“>ÀŽ>LÞÊ Àiȏˆi˜Ì]Ê̅>˜ŽÃʓ>ˆ˜ÞÊ̜Ê̅iÊ 7Êňi`ÊLiˆ˜}ʓ>`iʜvÊՏÌÀ>‡ÌœÕ}…]Ê>˜Vˆi˜Ì]Ê VÀÕÃÌ>Ê “iÌ>“œÀ«…ˆVÊ ÀœVŽÃ]Ê Ü…ˆV…Ê Ì>ŽiÊ “ˆi˜˜ˆ>Ê ÌœÊ iÀœ`i°Ê /…iÊ iLÀˆ`iÃ]Ê œÀÌ…Ê œ>ÃÌÊ>˜`Ê"ÀŽ˜iÞÃÊ>Àiʓ>`iʜvÊ̅ˆÃʅ>À`ÊÃÌÕvv]ÊLÀˆ˜}ˆ˜}Ê̅iÊ1½Ãʅ>À`Ê ÀœVŽÞÊVœ>ÃÌÊ«iÀVi˜Ì>}iÊÕ«Ê̜Ê>ʅi>Ì…ÞÊ{ӯʜvÊ̅iÊ£Ç]În£Ž“ÃʜvÊ ÕÀœ«i½ÃÊ œ˜}iÃÌÊVœ>Ã̏ˆ˜i°Ê/…iÊi>ÃÌÊVœ>ÃÌʈÃʘœÌÊÜʏÕVŽÞÊ>˜`ÊVœ>ÃÌ>Ê`ivi˜ViÊܜÀŽÃÊ ˆŽiÊ }ÀœÞ˜iÃÊ >˜`Ê Ãi>Ü>ÃÊ «ÀœÌiVÌÊ Ì…iÊ ÃœvÌiÀÊ Ãi`ˆ“i˜Ì>ÀÞÊ ÀœVŽÃ°Ê /…iÊ ˆÀÌ…Ê œvÊœÀ̅ʅ>ÃÊ̅iʓœÃÌÊVœ>ÃÌ>Ê>À“œÕÀˆ˜}]ʅœÜiÛiÀʈÌÊVœ˜Ìˆ˜ÕiÃÊ̜ÊLiÊi>Ìi˜Ê >Ü>Þ]Ê«>À̈VՏ>ÀÞÊVœÃiÀÊÌœÊ `ˆ˜LÕÀ}…° iÃÊÌi“«kÌiÃÊ`iÊÌ>ˆi]ÊVœ““iʓi˜Ìˆœ˜˜jÊ«ÕÃʅ>ÕÌ]Ê>ÃÃ>ˆˆÃÃi˜ÌʏiÃÊVžÌiÃÊjVœÃÃ>ˆÃiÃÊ ˜œ˜ÊÃ>˜ÃÊVœ˜ÃjµÕi˜Vi°Ê>ˆÃʏ>ÊVžÌiÊÀiÃÌiÊÌÀmÃÊÀjÈÃÌ>˜ÌiÊDʏ½>V̈œ˜Ê`iÊÌiiÃÊÛ>}ÕiÃ]Êi˜Ê «>À̈iÊ}À@ViÊDÊ՘ÊLœÕVˆiÀÊ}jœœ}ˆµÕiÊ>ÕÊ "Êv>ˆÌÊ`iÊÀœV…iÃʓˆj˜>ˆÀiÃʈ˜VÀœÞ>Li“i˜ÌÊ

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VViÃÃÊ V>˜Ê LiÊ >˜Ê ˆÃÃÕiÊ ˆ˜Ê Ài“œÌiÊ >Ài>Ã]Ê Ì…iÀiÊ ˆÃÊ ˆÌ̏iÊ ÌœÕÀˆÃÌÊ ˆ˜vÀ>ÃÌÀÕVÌÕÀiÊ ÃœÊ Li>V…Ê V>ÀÊ «>ÀŽÃ]Ê ÌœˆiÌÃÊ iÌVÊ >ÀiÊ À>ÀiÆÊ Ì…>ÌÊ Ã>ˆ`]Ê …>ۈ˜}Ê̜ÊÜ>ŽÊˆ˜Ê̜ÊÀi“œÌiÊLi>V…iÃʈÃÊ>Ê«i>ÃÕÀiÊ̅>̽Ãʅ>À`Ê̜Êw˜`ʈ˜Ê̅iÊ ÀiÃÌʜvÊ ÕÀœ«i°

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3ANDSIDE

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!CCESS

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Key Introduction Pages Statistics

Temperatures Conversions Farenheit (ºF) Celsius (ºC)

Tables are divided into 6 blocks of 2 months, the figures given are bi-monthly averages, the same figure applies to both months. Minimum and maximum temperatures usually have a variation of ±5ºC.

110 100 90 80

Wetsuit charts Average wetsuit requirements for the time of year. Temp ºC 23

      Suit +Boots +Gloves +Hood

6/5

5/4

4/3

• • •

• optional optional

•

3/2

Springsuit Boardshorts

40 30 20

60 50 40 30 20

10 0 -10

10 0

Subject to personal comfort variation.

-18

Break Map Pages Stormrider Symbols

Spot Map Scale: 1 square = 10km (6mi)

Optimum Wind Direction Northwest (NW)

North (N)

Northeast (NE)



West (W) Southwest (SW)

East (E)

South (S)

Arrow indicates offshore wind direction.

Southeast (SE)

Tides Indicates the presence of rideable waves, at relevant tidal stages.

'

&' ' ' ' "

All tides

Low only

High only

Mid tide

Not low

Not high

Optimum tide, if more specific, is usually referred to in the text.

Wave Direction and Type Wave direction is indicated by the direction of the lines. Rights

R&L Peak

Lefts



!  ' $' % ' ' '  ' ' # ' '

Consistent peak over either sand or reef Man-made break - Eg groyne, jetty or pier Pointbreak Rivermouth or other similar feature

Break Reports and Spot Maps Describe the surf and the environment: consistency; crowds; parking; facilities and access. Consistency There are three terms commonly used to describe the consistency of a spot: high breaks on a weekly basis. ie: more than 52 times a year. medium breaks on a monthly basis. ie: between 12-52 times a year. low breaks on an annual basis. ie: less than 12 times a year.

Land features are indicated by the shape of the solid part of the symbol.

Crowds There are five self explanatory terms commonly used to describe the crowd factor: always crowded; often crowded; sometimes crowded; rarely crowded; solo surfing.

Bottom Type

Distance Conversion

Beachbreak with shifting peaks

' '' ' ' '  Sand

Flat rock shelf

+ sand

Uneven + sand reef

Cobblestone + sand or boulder reef

  

















































Swell Direction Window

Wave Face Measurements

Catchment of all swells between two compass points reading in a clockwise direction.

Feet (ft)

NE

Eg – Receives swell from a north east around to south east direction.

SE

Concentric lines represent approaching swells. Solid black represents land and/or a blocked swell direction.

: 

30+























Service Locators

Metres (m) 10+

huge

Surf Shop Surf Camp

18

6

triple overhead

12

4

double overhead

6

2

head high

Camp & School Board Shaper

Surf School

Wave Size Range

4

1.3

chest high

3

1

waist high

Travel Agency

Based on wave face measurements (subject to regional interpretive variation).

1

0.3

knee high

Bar/Restaurant

0

0

flat

Overland

 

Upper number denotes maximum rideable size. Lower number denotes minimum rideable size.

eBooks

More eBooks are being added all the time. Please check the website for the latest updates.

The yellow service locators on spot maps reference further infomation in the Yellow Pages p.196-211

www.lowpressure.co.uk

THE STORMRIDER SURF GUIDE

North Sea Nations DENMARK GERMANY NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

./24(3%!.!4)/.3

4HE3URF $ENMARK !LTHOUGHSMALL $ENMARKISSURROUNDEDBYTHREEDIFFERENTBODIESOFWATER WHICHDIVIDEUPTHESURFZONES4HE.ORTH3EAISTHEMAINSURFPRODUCER AND THE WEST COAST OF *UTLAND IS BATTERED BY lERCE WESTERLY WINDS YEAR ROUND4HESEWINDS ESPECIALLYWHENTHEYCOMEFROMTHE37 CANTHROWUP SOMEHEADHIGHWAVESINHALFADAY WHILETHECOASTLINEOFSMALLBAYSAND LONG ROCKGROYNESHELPCLEANUPTHESURFNICELY4HEBESTCONDITIONSOCCUR WHENAHEAVYDEPRESSIONISSPINNINGSOMEWHERETOTHENORTHWESTBETWEEN .ORWAY AND 3COTLAND SENDING SWELL LINES UP TO FT HOPEFULLY COINCIDING WITHCALMWEATHEROR%WINDS4HESEHEAVENLYDAYSAREFAROUTNUMBERED BYMESSYONSHOREONESANDALLSWELLSCOMEANDGOQUICKLY4HE+ATTEGAT REQUIRES REALLY STRONG ONSHORE WINDS FROM THE NORTHERLY QUADRANT TO GET ANY RIDEABLE ACTION WHILE THE FEW "ALTIC SPOTS ARE EVEN LESS RELIABLE AND NEED % WINDS 3PRING TIDES ARE DOUBLE THE AVERAGE HITTING M NEAR THE 'ERMAN BORDER DECREASING TO M AT 3KAGEN IN THE +ATTEGAT 3TORM SURGESAREOFTENGREATERTHANTHETIDALRANGE4HE"ALTICISMICRO TIDALAND BARELYMOVES 4HEBESTAREAISTHESTRETCHFROM+LITM’LLERTO!GGER WITHTHEPOPULAR .’RRE 6ORUP’R SITUATED IN THE MIDDLE 'OOD WINDSWELL CAN BE RIDDEN IN BREEZES FROM 3 TO .% AND THE COAST IS WELL EXPOSED TO OCCASIONAL GROUNDSWELLS FROM THE 37 TO .7 )T IS ALL BEACHBREAKS EXCEPT FOR THE MUSSELCOVEREDREEFIN+LITM’LLER%XPLORINGTHEMILESOFDESERTEDBEACHES SOUTHOF!GGER ALLTHEWAYTO(VIDE3ANDEISBESTDONEWHENWINDSARE FROMANEASTERLYDIRECTION)TSLESSCONSISTENTTHANTHE+LITM’LLERAREAAND

THESTRAIGHTCOASTLINEISMOREEXPOSED WITH FEWERHARBOURWALLSANDJETTIESFORPROTECTION FROM THE WIND BUT WITH A GOOD SWELL AND CLEAN CONDITIONS THE BEACHBREAKS CAN BE PUNCHY AND SEMI HOLLOW 4HE +ATTEGAT IS THE CLOSEST PLACE TO SURF FROM #OPENHAGEN BUT THE WAVES ARE PRETTY PATHETIC )T TAKES AT LEAST SIX HOURS OF MS 7 OR .7 WINDS TO KICK UP SOME WAVES TO RIDE BETWEEN 'ILLELEJE AND !ALSGAARDE ON :EALANDS NORTH COAST WHILE(UNDESTEDAND,ISELEJENEED. .% -ORE SPOTS ARE FOUND ON *UTLANDS EAST COASTNORTHOF%BELTOFT NEEDINGVERYSTRONG +ATTEGATWINDSBETWEEN.AND%4HE"ALTIC 3EAISSURFEDAROUND3TEVNS+LINTAND2’DVIG 3TEVNSBREAKSONAMODERATEONSHORE%OR3% WINDAND2’DVIGNEEDSASTRONGER%TOBLOW FOR AT LEAST EIGHT HOURS /THER AREAS WITH POTENTIALINCLUDE-OENTOTHESOUTH BUTTHE BEST $ANISH "ALTIC WAVES ARE ON THE ISLAND "ALTIC3EA OF "ORNHOLM #OUNTLESS POINTS AND BAYS 352&34!4)34)#3 *& -! -* *! 3/ .$ FACINGMANYDIFFERENTDIRECTIONSWITHALONG $OMINANTSWELL .7 . .7 . .7 . .7 . .7 . .7 . FETCHFROMTHE.%n%MAKESEVERYWINDYDAY 3WELLSIZEFT          #ONSISTENCY       SURFABLE"ONAlDESURFINFOABOUTTHEISLAND $OMINANTWIND 37 .7 37 .7 37 .7 37 .7 37 .7 37 .7 ISSCARCE BUTRUMOURSSAYTHATITGETSASGOOD !VERAGEFORCE & & & & & & & & ASTHEWESTCOASTOF*UTLAND #ONSISTENCY       -OSTSWELLSOCCURFROM3EPTEMBERTO!PRIL 7ATERTEMPŽ#       WITHTHEPRIMEAUTUMNMONTHSOF3EPTEMBER 7ETSUIT TO.OVEMBERBRINGINGTHEBESTWAVESTOTHE WEST COAST 7INTER BRINGS COLD NEAR Ž# WATERANDSHORTDAYLIGHTHOURS BUTMORE CLADSURFERSAREBRAVINGTHECONDITIONSTOSCORETHESTRONGERWAVES3UMMER -IDDLEn.’RRE6ORUP’RIS THECENTREOFTHE$ANISH CANBEREALLYGOOD DEPENDINGONTHEWINDPATTERNSANDAWORKSINTHE SURFSCENEANDWORKS WARMESTMONTHS3WELLSAREFEWER BUTTHE7WINDWILLOFTENPROVIDEGOOD INONSHOREWINDSWITH RIDEABLEWINDCHOP4HE+ATTEGATWORKSMAINLYINAUTUMNNORTHERLIES BUT ENOUGHPOWERFORTHE WET SUMMERS CAN ALSO BRING MANY MESSY 7 WIND DAYS 3PRING IS OFTEN A SHORTBOARDERS GOODTIMEFORSTRONG%WINDSINTHE"ALTIC AFTERTHEICEHASGONE

$ANISH3URF#ULTURE (ISTORY 3URlNG IN $ENMARK BEGAN AROUND  WHEN WINDSURFERS VISITING THE WEST COAST FOUND THAT DURING THE SUMMER THERE WOULD OFTEN BE WAVES BUT NO WIND SO LONGBOARDS BEGAN TO APPEAR 3LOWLY THROUGH THE @S A FEW $ANES THAT HAD LIVED ABROAD AND BROUGHT BACK A SURFBOARD STARTED EXPLORING THE COASTS5NTILRECENTLY MOST$ANISHSURFERSSTARTEDSURlNGWHILE STUDYINGORLIVINGABROADINWARMERCLIMES4HESETRAVELLERSWERE ALMOSTEXCLUSIVELYCITYSURFERSFROM#OPENHAGEN (ELSING’RAND !ARHUS BUT NOW A NEW GENERATION OF HOMEGROWN TALENT ARE LEARNINGON$ANISHWAVES HAILINGFROMTOWNSNEAR+LITM’LLERAND (VIDE3ANDE4HEREAREMANYFOREIGNSURFERSLIVINGIN$ENMARK THE $ANISH GIRLS ARE VERY ATTRACTIVE
SO THE LINE UP IS OFTEN SURPRISINGLY INTERNATIONAL AND PROVIDES SOME INSPIRATION AND ASPIRATIONFOR$ANISHSURFERSBYDEMONSTRATINGWHATCANBEDONE ONASURFBOARDINTHESEWATERS(IGHPERFORMANCESURlNGHAS HELPEDDISPELTHEMISUNDERSTANDINGTHATONLYLONGBOARDSWORK ON$ANISHWAVES ANDMOST$ANES ESPECIALLYTHOSETHATHAVE TRAVELLED RIDESHORTBOARDS4HElRST$ANISH#HAMPIONSHIPWAS HELDINTHEMID|SANDHASBEENHELDEVERYYEARSINCE6OLCOM HAVE HELD A COUPLE OF &LATlSH SURF COMPETITIONS IN +LITM’LLER WHICHISTHEMOSTPOPULARCOMPETITIONVENUE)TCANBECROWDED ATCERTAINSPOTSDURINGTHEWARMERMONTHS ESPECIALLYIN.’RRE 6ORUP’R A FAVOURITE LONG STAY SPOT FOR 'ERMAN CAMPERVANS 4HEYNORMALLYOUTNUMBERTHE$ANISHSURFERSBYFAR SOMETIMES CREATING A BIT OF IRRITATION BUT THERE ISNT REALLY ANY LOCALISM

4HE3TORMRIDER'UIDE%UROPE

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4HERE ARE TWO SIGNIlCANT SURF SHOPS INCLUDING$ARKBLUE"OARDSHOPIN(ELSING’R SERVINGALL:EALAND SURFERSALONGWITHMANYFROMSOUTHERN3WEDENAND7EST7IND +LITM’LLER LOOKS AFTER THE WEST COAST CREW 2ENTAL BOARDS AND SMALLSURFSCHOOLSAREBECOMINGMORECOMMON(ANDYWEBSITES LIKEWWWMUSSELREEFDK$ANISHWAVESANDTRAVELSTORIES OR WWWRIDERSDK GUIDE  FORUM ARE WHERE COMPETITIONS ARE ANNOUNCEDBYTHE$ANISH3URlNG!SSOCIATION ,E SURF AU $ANEMARK A DÏBUTÏ VERS  LORSQUE LES WINDSURFERS EN TRIP SUR LA CÙTE / COMMENCÒRENT Ì EMMENER DES LONGBOARDS CAR ILS SE RENDIRENTCOMPTEQUENÏTÏILYAVAITSOUVENTDESVAGUESMAISPASDEVENT 0ROGRESSIVEMENT DANS LES ANNÏES  CERTAINS $ANOIS QUI AVAIT VÏCU Ì LÏTRANGER RAMENÒRENT UNE PLANCHE ET EXPLORÒRENT LES DIFFÏRENTES CÙTES *USQUÌRÏCEMMENT LAPLUPARTDES$ANOISAPPRENAIENTÌSURFERLORSQUILS ÏTAIENT Ì LÏTRANGER POUR LES ÏTUDES OU POUR Y VIVRE DANS DES CLIMATS PLUS CHAUDS #ES VOYAGEURS ÏTAIENT PRESQUE EXCLUSIVEMENT DES SURFERS VIVANTENVILLEÌ#OPENHAGEN (ELSINGOEROU!ARHUS MAISDÏSORMAISUNE NOUVELLEGÏNÏRATIONDESURFERSLOCAUXVENANTDELARÏGIONDE+LITMOELLER ET(VIDE3ANDEAPPRENNENTÌSURFERSURLESVAGUESLOCALES)LYABEAUCOUP DESURFERSÏTRANGERSQUIVIVENTAU$ANEMARKLES$ANOISESSONTVRAIMENT PAS MAL
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ANDMADSHOULDAPPLYTOITSOCCASIONALLYICECOVEREDWATERS4IDALRANGEIS ABOUTMON3YLTANDNON EXISTENTINTHEBRACKISH"ALTIC 3YLT IS THE EPICENTRE OF 'ERMAN SURlNG AND THE GENTLY CURVING SANDY BARRIERISLANDHOSTSKMSOFBEACHBREAKFROMNORTHTOSOUTH-UCHOFIT CONSISTSOFOPEN UNSTABILISEDSTRANDS ALTHOUGHTHEREARESOMESMALLJETTIES ANDSAND COVEREDBOULDERSTOHELPWAVESHAPEAROUND7ESTERLAND)TSA BIGSUMMERSCENEWITHBEACH GOERS MANYOFWHOMTRYSURlNG BUTWAVES AREINCONSISTENTANDFRUSTRATEDLOCALSHAVETOWAITFORBETTEROPPORTUNITIES AFTERTHETOURISTSHAVEGONE&URTHERSOUTH THEREAREMORESHIFTINGSANDBARS AT 3T 0ETER /RDING ANOTHER BIG RESORT TOWN ON THE MAINLAND BUT BETTER WAVES CAN USUALLY BE FOUND ON THE %AST &RISIAN )SLANDS OF .ORDERNEY AND "ORKUM.ORDERNEYSITSINTHEMIDDLEOFTHEBARRIERISLANDCHAINANDPICKS UPANYSWELLWITHABITOFNORTHINITINCLUDING.%"ORKUMSITSATTHEBORDER WITH THE .ETHERLANDS AND SHARES THE SAME SURF CHARACTERISTICS n SHIFTING BEACHBREAK PEAKS AND BIG CROWDS DURING THE SUMMER VACATION PERIOD 4HE "ALTIC BREAKS ARE FOR DEDICATED USERS ONLY WHO NEED THICK SKINS AND THICKERWETSUITS#ONSTANTONSHORESFROMTHE.7FORSOMEOFTHEBREAKS

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4HE LARGE PIER PROVIDES STABLE SANDBANKS AND CUTS THE HOWLINGONSHORESLEAVINGSOMEDECENTRIGHTSONTHEEAST SIDE 3TRONG RIPS ARE COMMON AND PADDLING VERY CLOSE TO THEPILINGSORJUMPINGOFFTHEENDAREONLYFORTHEBRAVE !PPARENTLY THERE IS A RIGHT UP AT THE :EEBRUGGE HARBOUR WALL AND SOME BUSY PEAKS DOWN AT "LANKENBERGE /OSTERSTAKETSEL"ELGIUMSMOSTCONSISTENTSPOTATTRACTSA CROWD AND THERES A SURF CLUB UNDER THE PIER FOR RENTALS ANDLESSONS

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4HE BIGGEST COASTAL CITY IN "ELGIUM PROVIDES SOME OF THE BEST SURlNG CONDITIONS ESPECIALLY ON EITHER SIDE OF THE HARBOURPIERATLOWANDMIDTIDE.EEDSTHEONSHOREWINDS TODRIVETHESWELLANDMUSHYCLOSE OUTSARECOMMON BUT SOMETIMESITLINESUPFORAFEWFASTERWALLS3UMMERSURlNG RESTRICTED TO THE /UTSIDE SURF CLUB LESSONS BOARD RENTAL WESTOFTHE4HERMAE0LACE(OTEL!LLFACILITIESANDSHOP ,A PLUS GROSSE VILLE CÙTIÒRE DE "ELGIQUE POSSÒDE QUELQUES UNES DES MEILLEURES VAGUES DU PAYS NOTAMMENT DE CHAQUE CÙTÏ DU PORTDEMARÏEBASSEËMI MARÏE)LFAUTUNBONVENTONSHOREPOUR POUSSER LA HOULE ET ON A SOUVENT DES VAGUES MOLLES QUI FERMENT MAIS PARFOIS ÎA SE MET EN PLACE AVEC DES VAGUES PLUS RAPIDES QUI OUVRENT,ESURFENÏTÏYESTRÏSERVÏPOURLE/UTSIDESURFCLUBCOURS LOCATIONSDEPLANCHES SITUÏËL/DU4HERMAE0LACE(OTEL4OUTES SORTESDINSTALLATIONSETUNSURFSHOP

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! POPULAR SPOT IN THIS SMALL BEACH TOWN WAS BAPTISED @/LLIES0OINTAFTERTHEFOUNDERWHODISCOVEREDTHIS@SECRET SPOTDURINGTHE@S3TANDARDBEACHBREAKSBETWEENROCK JETTIESTHATOCCASIONALLYTURNONAFTERABIG.STORMWHEN THEWINDCALMSDOWN2IPSARECOMMONANDTHERECANBE ATTITUDE IN THE LINE UP BUT THERE ARE MANY MORE SIMILAR WAVESUPORDOWNTHEBEACH

4HE3TORMRIDER'UIDE%UROPE

Key Introduction Pages Statistics

Temperatures Conversions Farenheit (ºF) Celsius (ºC)

Tables are divided into 6 blocks of 2 months, the figures given are bi-monthly averages, the same figure applies to both months. Minimum and maximum temperatures usually have a variation of ±5ºC.

110 100 90 80

Wetsuit charts Average wetsuit requirements for the time of year. Temp ºC 23

      Suit +Boots +Gloves +Hood

6/5

5/4

4/3

• • •

• optional optional

•

3/2

Springsuit Boardshorts

40 30 20

60 50 40 30 20

10 0 -10

10 0

Subject to personal comfort variation.

-18

Break Map Pages Stormrider Symbols

Spot Map Scale: 1 square = 10km (6mi)

Optimum Wind Direction Northwest (NW)

North (N)

Northeast (NE)



West (W) Southwest (SW)

East (E)

South (S)

Arrow indicates offshore wind direction.

Southeast (SE)

Tides Indicates the presence of rideable waves, at relevant tidal stages.

'

&' ' ' ' "

All tides

Low only

High only

Mid tide

Not low

Not high

Optimum tide, if more specific, is usually referred to in the text.

Wave Direction and Type Wave direction is indicated by the direction of the lines. Rights

R&L Peak

Lefts



!  ' $' % ' ' '  ' ' # ' '

Consistent peak over either sand or reef Man-made break - Eg groyne, jetty or pier Pointbreak Rivermouth or other similar feature

Break Reports and Spot Maps Describe the surf and the environment: consistency; crowds; parking; facilities and access. Consistency There are three terms commonly used to describe the consistency of a spot: high breaks on a weekly basis. ie: more than 52 times a year. medium breaks on a monthly basis. ie: between 12-52 times a year. low breaks on an annual basis. ie: less than 12 times a year.

Land features are indicated by the shape of the solid part of the symbol.

Crowds There are five self explanatory terms commonly used to describe the crowd factor: always crowded; often crowded; sometimes crowded; rarely crowded; solo surfing.

Bottom Type

Distance Conversion

Beachbreak with shifting peaks

' '' ' ' '  Sand

Flat rock shelf

+ sand

Uneven + sand reef

Cobblestone + sand or boulder reef

  

















































Swell Direction Window

Wave Face Measurements

Catchment of all swells between two compass points reading in a clockwise direction.

Feet (ft)

NE

Eg – Receives swell from a north east around to south east direction.

SE

Concentric lines represent approaching swells. Solid black represents land and/or a blocked swell direction.

: 

30+























Service Locators

Metres (m) 10+

huge

Surf Shop Surf Camp

18

6

triple overhead

12

4

double overhead

6

2

head high

Camp & School Board Shaper

Surf School

Wave Size Range

4

1.3

chest high

3

1

waist high

Travel Agency

Based on wave face measurements (subject to regional interpretive variation).

1

0.3

knee high

Bar/Restaurant

0

0

flat

Overland

 

Upper number denotes maximum rideable size. Lower number denotes minimum rideable size.

eBooks

More eBooks are being added all the time. Please check the website for the latest updates.

The yellow service locators on spot maps reference further infomation in the Yellow Pages p.196-211

www.lowpressure.co.uk

THE STORMRIDER SURF GUIDE

France

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4HE3URF /F &RANCES  KMS OF COASTLINE A LARGE PROPORTION IS DIRECTLY EXPOSEDTO!TLANTICSWELLSFROMA37TO.7DIRECTION4HESESWELLS POUR INTO THE "AY OF "ISCAY OFTEN UNACCOMPANIED BY THE STRONG WINDS THAT CREATED THEM THOUSANDS OF KILOMETRES AWAY IN THE .ORTH!TLANTIC(OTSUMMERSSEEMORNINGOFFSHORESANDAFTERNOON SEABREEZESTHATSLOWLYRELENTTHROUGHTHEBESTSURlNGMONTHSOF AUTUMN7HILEWINTERPRODUCESMORE.7WINDSANDAMAXED OUT PICTUREON"ISCAYSBEACHES THEmANKINGREEFSOF"RITTANYAND#ÙTE "ASQUERUMBLEINTOLIFE OFFERINGEITHERPROTECTIONORSWELLFOCUSING POWER UNDERARANGEOFWINDDIRECTIONS4HESOUTHERNREGIONSARE BLESSEDWITHTHEPERFECTUNDERWATERTOPOGRAPHYINTHESHAPEOFA DEEPSEA CANYONTHATCONCENTRATESANDAMPLIlESSWELLS4HEMACRO TIDES ARE A BIG ISSUE HITTING M IN THE #HANNEL AND DIMINISHING TO ABOUT M ON A SPRING TIDE DOWN SOUTH SO TIDE TABLES ARE AN ESSENTIALTOOL 5NEGRANDEPARTDESKMSQUERECOUVRELELITTORALFRANÎAISESTDIRECTEMENT EXPOSÏEAUXHOULESDEL!TLANTIQUEDESECTEUR3/Ë./%LLESVIENNENTFRAPPER LE 'OLFE DE "ISCAYE SOUVENT SANS ÐTRE ACCOMPAGNÏES PAR LES VENTS FORTS QUI ONT SERVI Ë LEUR CRÏATION Ë DES MILLIERS DE KM DE LË DANS L!TLANTIQUE . ,E VENTESTSOUVENTOFFSHORELEMATINQUANDILFAITCHAUDENÏTÏ AVECDESBRISES DEMERLAPRÒS MIDI QUIDIMINUENTPROGRESSIVEMENTENAUTOMNELAMEILLEURE PÏRIODE POUR LE SURF  ,HIVER AMÒNE GÏNÏRALEMENT PLUS DE VENT DE ./ ET ÎA SATURESOUVENTSURLESBEACHBREAKSDE"ISCAYE MAISLESREEFSSEMETTENTALORS ËMARCHEREN"RETAGNEETSURLA#ÙTE"ASQUE ENOFFRANTUNESOLUTIONDEREPLI OUENCONCENTRANTLAPUISSANCEDELAHOULE AVECDIFFÏRENTESORIENTATIONSSELON LEVENT,ESRÏGIONSDU3BÏNÏlCIENTDUNETOPOGRAPHIEIDÏALE AVECUNCANYON SOUS MARIN PROFOND QUI CONCENTRE LA HOULE ET LAMPLIlE )L FAUT BIEN TENIR COMPTEDESMARÏESCARELLESSONTIMPORTANTES DEMEN-ANCHEAUXALENTOURS DE MPARVIVESEAUXDANSLE3NOUBLIEZPASVOTRECALENDRIERDESMARÏES


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Key Introduction Pages Statistics

Temperatures Conversions Farenheit (ºF) Celsius (ºC)

Tables are divided into 6 blocks of 2 months, the figures given are bi-monthly averages, the same figure applies to both months. Minimum and maximum temperatures usually have a variation of ±5ºC.

110 100 90 80

Wetsuit charts Average wetsuit requirements for the time of year. Temp ºC 23

      Suit +Boots +Gloves +Hood

6/5

5/4

4/3

• • •

• optional optional

•

3/2

Springsuit Boardshorts

40 30 20

60 50 40 30 20

10 0 -10

10 0

Subject to personal comfort variation.

-18

Break Map Pages Stormrider Symbols

Spot Map Scale: 1 square = 10km (6mi)

Optimum Wind Direction Northwest (NW)

North (N)

Northeast (NE)



West (W) Southwest (SW)

East (E)

South (S)

Arrow indicates offshore wind direction.

Southeast (SE)

Tides Indicates the presence of rideable waves, at relevant tidal stages.

'

&' ' ' ' "

All tides

Low only

High only

Mid tide

Not low

Not high

Optimum tide, if more specific, is usually referred to in the text.

Wave Direction and Type Wave direction is indicated by the direction of the lines. Rights

R&L Peak

Lefts



!  ' $' % ' ' '  ' ' # ' '

Consistent peak over either sand or reef Man-made break - Eg groyne, jetty or pier Pointbreak Rivermouth or other similar feature

Break Reports and Spot Maps Describe the surf and the environment: consistency; crowds; parking; facilities and access. Consistency There are three terms commonly used to describe the consistency of a spot: high breaks on a weekly basis. ie: more than 52 times a year. medium breaks on a monthly basis. ie: between 12-52 times a year. low breaks on an annual basis. ie: less than 12 times a year.

Land features are indicated by the shape of the solid part of the symbol.

Crowds There are five self explanatory terms commonly used to describe the crowd factor: always crowded; often crowded; sometimes crowded; rarely crowded; solo surfing.

Bottom Type

Distance Conversion

Beachbreak with shifting peaks

' '' ' ' '  Sand

Flat rock shelf

+ sand

Uneven + sand reef

Cobblestone + sand or boulder reef

  

















































Swell Direction Window

Wave Face Measurements

Catchment of all swells between two compass points reading in a clockwise direction.

Feet (ft)

NE

Eg – Receives swell from a north east around to south east direction.

SE

Concentric lines represent approaching swells. Solid black represents land and/or a blocked swell direction.

: 

30+























Service Locators

Metres (m) 10+

huge

Surf Shop Surf Camp

18

6

triple overhead

12

4

double overhead

6

2

head high

Camp & School Board Shaper

Surf School

Wave Size Range

4

1.3

chest high

3

1

waist high

Travel Agency

Based on wave face measurements (subject to regional interpretive variation).

1

0.3

knee high

Bar/Restaurant

0

0

flat

Overland

 

Upper number denotes maximum rideable size. Lower number denotes minimum rideable size.

eBooks

More eBooks are being added all the time. Please check the website for the latest updates.

The yellow service locators on spot maps reference further infomation in the Yellow Pages p.196-211

www.lowpressure.co.uk

THE STORMRIDER SURF GUIDE

Spain

30!).

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Key Introduction Pages Statistics

Temperatures Conversions Farenheit (ºF) Celsius (ºC)

Tables are divided into 6 blocks of 2 months, the figures given are bi-monthly averages, the same figure applies to both months. Minimum and maximum temperatures usually have a variation of ±5ºC.

110 100 90 80

Wetsuit charts Average wetsuit requirements for the time of year. Temp ºC 23

      Suit +Boots +Gloves +Hood

6/5

5/4

4/3

• • •

• optional optional

•

3/2

Springsuit Boardshorts

40 30 20

60 50 40 30 20

10 0 -10

10 0

Subject to personal comfort variation.

-18

Break Map Pages Stormrider Symbols

Spot Map Scale: 1 square = 10km (6mi)

Optimum Wind Direction Northwest (NW)

North (N)

Northeast (NE)



West (W) Southwest (SW)

East (E)

South (S)

Arrow indicates offshore wind direction.

Southeast (SE)

Tides Indicates the presence of rideable waves, at relevant tidal stages.

'

&' ' ' ' "

All tides

Low only

High only

Mid tide

Not low

Not high

Optimum tide, if more specific, is usually referred to in the text.

Wave Direction and Type Wave direction is indicated by the direction of the lines. Rights

R&L Peak

Lefts



!  ' $' % ' ' '  ' ' # ' '

Consistent peak over either sand or reef Man-made break - Eg groyne, jetty or pier Pointbreak Rivermouth or other similar feature

Break Reports and Spot Maps Describe the surf and the environment: consistency; crowds; parking; facilities and access. Consistency There are three terms commonly used to describe the consistency of a spot: high breaks on a weekly basis. ie: more than 52 times a year. medium breaks on a monthly basis. ie: between 12-52 times a year. low breaks on an annual basis. ie: less than 12 times a year.

Land features are indicated by the shape of the solid part of the symbol.

Crowds There are five self explanatory terms commonly used to describe the crowd factor: always crowded; often crowded; sometimes crowded; rarely crowded; solo surfing.

Bottom Type

Distance Conversion

Beachbreak with shifting peaks

' '' ' ' '  Sand

Flat rock shelf

+ sand

Uneven + sand reef

Cobblestone + sand or boulder reef

  

















































Swell Direction Window

Wave Face Measurements

Catchment of all swells between two compass points reading in a clockwise direction.

Feet (ft)

NE

Eg – Receives swell from a north east around to south east direction.

SE

Concentric lines represent approaching swells. Solid black represents land and/or a blocked swell direction.

: 

30+























Service Locators

Metres (m) 10+

huge

Surf Shop Surf Camp

18

6

triple overhead

12

4

double overhead

6

2

head high

Camp & School Board Shaper

Surf School

Wave Size Range

4

1.3

chest high

3

1

waist high

Travel Agency

Based on wave face measurements (subject to regional interpretive variation).

1

0.3

knee high

Bar/Restaurant

0

0

flat

Overland

 

Upper number denotes maximum rideable size. Lower number denotes minimum rideable size.

eBooks

More eBooks are being added all the time. Please check the website for the latest updates.

The yellow service locators on spot maps reference further infomation in the Yellow Pages p.196-211

www.lowpressure.co.uk

THE STORMRIDER SURF GUIDE

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