The Shape of Knitting: A Master Class in Increases, Decreases, and Other Forms of Shaping 9781617690211, 2012028691, 161769021X

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Back Cover

Citation preview

WITH

PROJECTS

—KNITTY.COM

A MASTER CLASS IN INCREASES, DECREASES, AND OTHER FORMS OF SHAPING

B A RR

Lynne Barr is one of the twenty-first century ’s most exciting knitters, both a master and an innovator of technique and design. In The Shape of Knitting (her third book, following Knitting New Scarves and Reversible Knitting), she explores methods for shaping flat and dimensional knitted fabrics, the tried-and-true as well as new techniques she has masterminded. Twenty-four fashion-fresh projects, including many quick-knit accessories, make exploring these skills a fascinating adventure.

A MASTER CLASS IN INCREASES, DECREASES, AN D OTH E R F O RMS O F SH API NG

“Lynne Barr has one of my favorite brains in knitting. She’s not afraid to explore, de- and re-construct to hit on something new and inventive.”

U.S. $29.95 CAN. $32.95 U.K. £18.99 ISBN 978-1-61769-021-1

LY N N E B A R R

115 WEST 18TH STREET, NEW YORK , NY 10011 WWW.STCBOOKS.COM WWW.MELANIEFALICKBOOKS.COM

P H OTO G R A P H S BY T H AY E R A L LY S O N G O W DY

PRINTED PR I N TED IN I N HONG HO N G KONG KO N G

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T H E S H A P E O F K N I TT I N G

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A M AS T ER CL AS S I N I NC REASE S, D E CREAS ES , AN D OT H E R FORMS OF SHAPI NG WITH

P RO J E C TS

LY N N E B A R R P H OTO G R A P H S BY T H AY E R A LLYS O N G O W D Y P H OTO ST Y L I N G BY K A R E N S C H AU P E T E R

STC C R A F T | A M E L A N I E FA L I C K B O O K ST E W A R T, TA B O R I & C H A N G | N E W YO R K

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FOR DOUG Published in 2013 by Stewart, Tabori & Chang An imprint of ABRAMS Text copyright © 2013 Lynne Barr All project photographs copyright © 2012 Thayer Allyson Gowdy All technical, step-by-step photographs copyright © 2012 Lynne Barr All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, mechanical, electronic, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher. Library of Congress Cataloging-inPublication Data Barr, Lynne. The shape of knitting : a master class in increases, decreases, and other forms of shaping / Lynne Barr ; photography by Thayer Allyson Gowdy. pages cm “STC Craft/A Melanie Falick Book.” ISBN 978-1-61769-021-1 1. Knitting—Patterns. I. Title. TT825.B2979 2013 746.43’041—dc23 2012028691 Editor: M E LA NIE FA LICK Designer: MA RY JANE CA LLIST E R Production Manager: T INA CAME RON The text of this book was composed in Mundo Sans, Garamond Display, and Garamond. Printed and bound in Hong Kong 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Stewart, Tabori & Chang books are available at special discounts when purchased in quantity for premiums and promotions as well as fundraising or educational use. Special editions can also be created to specification. For details, contact [email protected] or the address below.

1 1 5 W E ST 18T H ST RE E T N E W YO R K , NY 10011 W W W. A BRAMS B OOKS . COM

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8 I NTRO D U C T I O N

106 O N A N D O F F

124 A D D A N D S U B T R A C T

134 T H R E E  D I M E N S I O N A L K N I T T I N G

166 A B B R E V I AT I O N S

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152 C O N T I N U O U S K N I T T I N G

168 Y A R N S O U RC E S A N D A C K N OW L E D G M E N T S

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INTRODUCTION

ith over seven thousand members in the designers group on Ravelry, it’s clear that I’m far from alone in my love for creating things from knitting. For me, the most inspiring way to broaden design is to explore new techniques, and work to gain proficiency in them. Learning something new removes me from the tendency to use routine formulas. To be creative in an innovative way, I need to step outside my comfort zone, perhaps by trying something novel or approaching my work from a different direction.

8

And even when I want to just kick back and settle down to knit from an existing pattern, my experience can be greatly enhanced by my expanded repertoire of techniques. This is my third book for STC Craft (an imprint of Abrams Books), and like the others—Knitting New Scarves and Reversible Knitting—it is technique-driven. The focus of The Shape of Knitting is the special three-dimensional quality inherent in knitting, which makes it possible for us to create unique textural fabrics and shaped garments and accessories. Along with the traditional techniques I find most useful for shaping, I share my new discoveries of how to create layered dimensional shapes using one continuous yarn instead of piecing together separate knitted parts. The Shape of Knitting is divided into a collection of more than twenty patterns and four technique chapters: On and Off, Add and Subtract, Three-Dimensional Knitting, and Continuous Knitting. In On and Off and Add and Subtract, I focus first on cast-ons and bind-offs, then increases and decreases. For these sections, I chose to include techniques that cover a range of applications, from easy general purpose to more specific, such as provisional, double-edged cast-ons and tubular bind-offs that aid in three-dimensional shaping. In Three-Dimensional Knitting, I focus on techniques employed less commonly than increases and decreases to shape the body between cast-ons and bind-offs, as well as pleats and folds. The chapter on Continuous Knitting includes a novel technique that uses a single, unbroken strand of yarn to work shapes that have typically relied on attaching multiple strands. This new technique is CAPS (Continuously Applied Pieces), and I suggest working the example for String of Units (page 154) to understand the basic process before working projects that utilize it.

TH E SHAPE OF KNITTING

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INTRODUCTION

When playing with a technique, I sometimes feel like a dowser, but holding knitting needles instead of a dowsing rod to guide me toward an unknown goal. Sometimes my discovery of a new technique comes from searching for a way to knit a shape I already envision; sometimes I start with an existing technique and play with it until something new emerges. I developed the new techniques CAPS (page 154), Upward-Pulled Pleats (page 144), Yarnover Cast-On (page 112), and Speed Increase (page 127) specifically for projects I had already visualized for this book. CAPS, an acronym for Continuously Applied Pieces, is an easy way to knit complex three-dimensional shapes with one continuous strand of yarn. I came up with it when looking for a way to knit Square Arches (page 22), slippers that have three arch-shaped flaps to hold the slipper on, without having to attach additional strands of yarn for the arches. Initially I could only eliminate two tails from each arch, but eventually I found a way to knit the entire slipper continuously. The Speed Increase can quickly double a large consecutive number of stitches. It’s more invisible than standard methods of increasing in every stitch. Because speed increases are made from double-looped stitches, instead of working from neighboring stitches or connecting threads, they do not pull on or warp adjacent stitches. I developed this increase so I could knit ruched fabric (Ruche Hat and Cowl, page 72) without having to camouflage increases made in the conventional way in typical garter or purl bands. As I continued to play with these new techniques, even more possibilities emerged that could be applied to other projects in the book. Speed Increase is also used in Warm Hands Scarf (page 18) and Mer Mittens (page 32); My Tie Cardigan (page 99), Ripple Vest (page 44), and several others use the CAPS technique.

10

I don’t want to give the impression that I think design is exclusively about problem-solving. Every design has its emotional and intuitive components as well. We all bring our own unique histories, life experiences, and personal desires and styles into play when we create something. Inspiration isn’t always derived from things we see around us—or even from words we read or hear. Sometimes it comes from something intangible within us. When playing with a technique, I sometimes feel like a dowser, but holding knitting needles instead of a dowsing rod to guide me toward an unknown goal. Maybe it’s similar to what free-form knitters feel. Even though I love the open, free association approach during the creative phase, I still strive for an organized, cohesive design in the end. The patterns in this book may have originated from my playful experimentation with specific techniques, but ultimately, each stands on its own with a clear, unified look. The collection is, most importantly, forward-looking, upbeat, and easy to wear. I’m eager to continue exploring the potential of these new techniques as I design with them. I hope that you too will find them intriguing, and will discover ways to apply them to your own designs.

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RIPPLE VEST WAV E H E A D B A N D

S Q UA R E A R C H E S

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14

B I G BU T TO N C OW L

66

LITTLE BIAS PONCHO

18

WA R M H A N D S S C A R F

72

RU C H E H AT A N D C OW L

22

S QUA R E A RC H E S

75

SLEEP SHADES

26

H O O D E D C OW L

78

SIMPLE FOLD SCARF

30

S TAC K E D N E C K L AC E

82

F O L D E D B AG S

32

MER MITTENS

86

F R I N G E D C A B L E C OW L

36

S I M P L E H AT

88

RO C K I N G R I B W R A P

39

FA N C Y M A R K E T B AG

94

D I M P L E D C OW L

44

RIPPLE VEST

96

TWIST SLIPPERS

48

O P E N TO E S

99

MY TIE CARDIGAN

52

T I L D A H AT

56

H I G H P RO F I L E TO P

61

3D HEADBANDS

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PROJE CTS

B I G B U TTO N C OW L

ig Button Cowl was one of the first projects I created for this book, and I used it to explore the potential of the CAPS technique (see page 154 ). This technique integrates multiple sections and layered twists continuously connected by a single strand of yarn. \\\ The process of designing the cowl felt a bit like following Alice down a rabbit hole, but in the end, I was delighted to find that what had seemed like a twisting path turned out to be a more logical course. F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

COWL

8" wide x 24" circumference, buttoned

R I G H T B U T TO N H O L E F L A P

YA RN

Note: There are two sets of Rows 1–20 because the Left Buttonhole Flap is worked after the Right Buttonhole Flap is complete, using the CAPS technique (see page 154). Using smaller needles and Cable CO (see page 117), CO 16 sts.

Quince & Co. Puffin (100% merino wool; 100 yards / 100 grams): 2 hanks Bird’s Egg N E E DL E S

One set of four 10" (25 cm) long or longer double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 10 (6 mm) One set of four 10" (25 cm) long or longer double-pointed needles size US 13 (9 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. N OTI O N S

Two 1 ¾" buttons GAU G E

14 sts and 13 rows = 4" (10 cm) in K1, P1 Rib, using larger needles, unstretched STI TC H PATT ER N

K1, P1 Rib (multiple of 2 sts; 1-row repeat) All Rows: [K1, p1] to end.

14

Note: With the exception of sts slipped when working w&t, slip sts knitwise. ROW 1 (WS): Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end. ROWS 2–7: Repeat Row 1. Place marker at beginning of Row 2 to mark RS. Note: Rows 8–13 work only 8 sts on right side of a 6-row vertical buttonhole; leave remaining 8 sts unworked. ROWS 8–13: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, turn.

Note: Row 14 connects the two sides of the buttonhole. ROW 14: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, AO-h 3 sts, [k1, p1] 4 times from next needle—19 sts. Note: Rows 15–20 work the left side of the buttonhole to the same length as the right side. ROWS 15, 17, AND 19: Slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2tog, w&t—16 sts remain after Row 19 (8 sts each side). ROWS 16 AND 18: [K1, p1] 4 times. Note: The 8 sts CO using AO-h CO in Row 20 are the waste sts that will be used to work the Left Buttonhole Flap as a CAP (see page 157); the 16 sts CO using Cable CO sts are the primary CO sts for the bottom of the Left Buttonhole Flap. ROW 20: [K1, p1] 4 times, turn, AO-h 8 sts, using Cable CO (see page 117), CO 16 sts—40 sts.

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PROJE CTS

B I G BU T TO N C OW L

Twist on Right Side

1

2

3

4

5

6

8

9

Join Left Side

7

16

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L E F T B U T TO N H O L E F L A P

K1, [p1, k1] 7 times, p2tog, w&t—39 sts remain. ROWS 2, 4, AND 6: [K1, p1] 8 times. ROWS 3, 5, AND 7: Slip 1, [p1, k1] 7 times, p2tog, w&t—36 sts remain after Row 7. ROW 8: [K1, p1] 4 times, turn, leaving remaining 8 sts unworked. ROW 1 (WS):

Note: Rows 9–13 work only on right side of a 6-row vertical buttonhole. ROWS 9 AND 11: Slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2tog, w&t—34 sts remain after Row 11 (10 sts for right side of Left Buttonhole Flap). ROWS 10 AND 12: [K1, p1] 4 times. ROW 13: Repeat Row 9—33 sts remain. Note: Rows 14–20 work only on left side of 6-row vertical buttonhole. ROW 14: [K1, p1] 4 times, AO-h 3 sts, [k1, p1] 4 times from next needle—36 sts. ROWS 15, 17, AND 19: Slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2tog, w&t—33 sts remain after Row 19. ROWS 16, 18, AND 20: [K1, p1] to end. CONNECT FLAPS

Slip 1, [p1, k1] 7 times, working wrap together with wrapped st above buttonhole as you come to it, p2tog, [k1, p1] to end, working wrap together with wrapped st above buttonhole as you come to it—32 sts remain. ROWS 22–24: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 15 times. ROWS 25–27: Change to larger needles. Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 15 times. ROW 21 (WS):

TWIST ON RIGHT SIDE

Note: Rows 28–32 work on 8 sts only for first half of Right Side. ROW 28 (RS): Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, turn. ROWS 29–32: Repeat Row 28. ROW 33: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, AO-h 3 sts; do not turn. Starting at edge with attached yarn, slip first 11 sts to empty dpn, then slip next 8 sts to second

empty dpn (photo 1), leaving remaining 16 sts out of work on third dpn for Left Side. Bring working dpn to right across front of second dpn, without turning working dpn (photo 2), [k1, p1] 4 times from second dpn (photo 3)—19 sts on working dpn. Note: Rows 34–62 work remaining 8 sts of Right Side Twist. ROWS 34, 36, AND 38: Slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2tog, w&t—16 sts remain on right half of Cowl after Row 38. ROWS 35, 37, AND 39: [K1, p1] 4 times. ROW 40: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 7 times, working wrap together with wrapped st on st 9. ROWS 41–48: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 7 times. Note: Rows 49–53 work 8 sts only for second half of Right Side ROWS 49–53: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, turn. ROW 54: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, AO-h 3 sts (photo 4); do not turn. Bring working dpn to right across front of previous dpn (photo 5), [k1, p1] 4 times from second dpn (photo 6). ROWS 55-60: Repeat Rows 34–39. ROW 61: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 7 times, working wrap together with wrapped st on st 9. ROW 62: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 7 times. JOIN LEFT SIDE

Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 7 times, AO-h 7 sts (photo 7, shown from RS). With WS facing, bring working dpn across back of next (Left Side) needle (photo 8), [k1, p1] 8 times from next needle (photo 9)—39 sts. The Left Side and Right Side have now exchanged places. ROWS 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, AND 76: Slip 1, [p1, k1] 7 times, p2tog, w&t—32 sts remain after Row 76. ROW 63:

ROWS 65, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75, AND 77:

Note: On the following rows, work all wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them. ROW 78: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, w&t. ROWS 79 AND 81: [K1, p1] to end. ROW 80: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 4 times, w&t. ROW 82: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 6 times, w&t. ROW 83: [K1, p1] to end. B OT H S I D E S

Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts on sts 15 and 17. ROW 85: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end. ROW 84:

C U RV E R I G H T E D G E

Note: Right Edge is shaped using Short Rows (see page 148). ROW 86 (RS): Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 11 times, w&t. ROW 87: [K1, p1] to end. ROWS 88, 89, 92, AND 93: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end, working wrap together with wrapped st as you come to it. ROW 90: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 7 times, w&t. ROW 91: [K1, p1] 8 times. ROW 94: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, w&t. ROW 95: [K1, p1] 4 times. ROWS 96–99: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end, working wrap together with wrapped st as you come to it. Repeat Rows 86–99 twice, Rows 86–97 once, Rows 86–95 once, then Rows 86, 87, 90, 91, 94, and 95 once. NEXT ROW (RS): Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them. Note: The BO Row divides the sts, then uses Kitchener st to reduce flaring. BO ROW: Divide sts onto 2 needles (see Divide Stitches, page 137), slipping knit sts onto front needle and purl sts onto back needle. Graft sts together using Kitchener st (see page 122).

[K1, p1] 8 times.

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PROJE CTS

WA R M H A N D S S C A R F

ndrew Beaumont’s Trapped Vase collection of wood and ceramic sculptures was my inspiration for this scarf. I had created the Speed Increase (page 127 ) for the Ruche Hat and Cowl (page 72 ), and wanting to use the technique in another project, immediately realized it was perfect for creating the visually smooth transitions between the single-layer scarf and double-layer pockets. The contrasting-colored piece that wraps around the neck is also added to the main scarf using the Speed Increase. F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

N OTE

5 ¾" wide, not including pockets, x 50" long

The Scarf is worked from the bottom left edge to the right with a front wrap extension knit-in at the back. All slopes, for the Pockets and the Neck Wrap, are created using short rows (see Short Rows, page 148).

YA RN

Quince & Co. Osprey (100% wool; 170 yards / 100 grams): 3 hanks Rosa Rugosa (MC), 1 hank Sorbet (A) N E E DL E S

Two 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needles size US 10 (6 mm) One needle size US 4 (3.5 mm), for Pocket BO Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. N OTI O N S

Stitch marker GAU G E

18 sts and 20 rows = 4" (10 cm) in K2, P2 Rib, unstretched

18

(see Pockets, page 21). Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, [k2, p2]

WORK FIRST POCKET

LE FT SIDE Using circ needle and MC, CO 40 sts as follows: [2 sts using Long-Tail CO (page 110), then 2 sts using Reverse Long-Tail CO (page 111)] 10 times. ROW 1 (WS): Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, [k2, p2] 9 times (to end). Place marker at beginning of this row to mark inner edge of Scarf; opposite edge will be outer edge. ROWS 2–13: Repeat Row 1, omitting marker placement. WORK SLOPE ONE (see Slope One, page 20).

NEXT ROW:

9 times. (see Slope Two, page 20). Work even for 14", working remaining wrap together with wrapped st on first row, slipping first st of every row, and ending at inner edge.

WORK SLOPE TWO

WORK SLOPE ONE. NEXT ROW: Using 1 strand each of A and MC held together, [k2, p2] to end, ending on inner edge. With RS facing you, using right-hand needle, divide MC and A sts onto 2 circ needles, slipping MC sts to back needle and A sts to a second needle held in front (see Separating Loops of Different Colors, page 129). Leave MC sts onhold while you work Neck Wrap.

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PROJE CTS

WA R M H A N D S S C A R F

RIG HT S I DE Using MC, work 1 row in K2, P2, Rib, slipping first st and ending at outer edge. WORK SLOPE TWO.

Work even in K2, P2 Rib, slipping first st of each row, for 16", ending at inner edge. WORK SLOPE ONE. WORK SECOND POCKET

(see Pockets,

below). NEXT ROW:

Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, [k2, p2]

9 times. WORK SLOPE TWO. NEXT ROW: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, [k2, p2] 9 times. Repeat last row 10 times. BO ROW: K2tog, *[p1, pso] twice, k2tog, pso, repeat from * 8 times, [p1, pso] twice. Fasten off last st.

NE CK WRAP Note: If you adjust length of neck wrap, make sure it’s long enough to stay secured under right side of main Scarf. Using A and working on A sts only, work even in K2, P2 Rib for 24", slipping first st of each row knitwise and ending at inside edge. WORK SLOPE ONE.

K2tog, [p2tog, pso, k2tog, pso] to last 2 sts, p2tog, pso.

BO ROW:

20

SLO P E O NE Note: Slope One is shaped using short rows (see page 148). SHORT ROW 1: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, [k2, p2] 7 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 2: Work to end. SHORT ROW 3: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, [k2, p2] 5 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 4: Work to end. SHORT ROW 5: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, [k2, p2] 3 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 6: Work to end. SHORT ROW 7: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, k2, p2, w&t. SHORT ROW 8: Work to end. SHORT ROW 9: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, [k2, p2] to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them. End of Slope One. SLO P E T WO Note: Slope Two is shaped using short rows; work wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them. SHORT ROW 1: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, k2, p2, w&t. SHORT ROW 2: Work to end.

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Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, [k2, p2] 3 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 4: Work to end. SHORT ROW 5: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, [k2, p2] 5 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 6: Work to end. SHORT ROW 7: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, [k2, p2] 7 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 8: Work to end. SHORT ROW 9: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, p2, [k2, p2] to end. End of Slope Two. SHORT ROW 3:

PO C K ETS

Cut 1 of the strands of yarn, leaving an 8" tail. Using remaining strand of yarn, work across each needle as follows: NEEDLE 1: Slip 1, k1, p2, [k2, p2] 12 times, turn work so Needle 2 is facing you; NEEDLE 2: [K2, p2] 13 times. ROW 1 (WS): NEEDLE 2: Slip 1, k1, p2, [k2, p2] 12 times; NEEDLE 1: [K2, p2] 13 times. ROW 2: NEEDLE 1: Slip 1, k1, p2, [k2, p2] 12 times; NEEDLE 2: [K2, p2] 13 times. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eleven times, then work Needle 2 of Row 1 only, ending at closed edge of Pocket (Pocket should measure 5 ½"). SET-UP ROW (RS):

Dividing Loops for Pockets

1

FIRST AND SECOND POCKET

Using second strand of MC held together with working yarn, [k2, p2] to end. Using both strands of MC held together, AO-f 1 st (2 loops), CO 11 sts using KCO (22 loops). Divide the 12 newly CO sts onto 2 circ needles (see Speed Increase, Dividing the Loops, page 127), slipping 1 loop of doubled pair to front needle (Needle 1) and second loop to back needle (Needle 2) (photo 1). Holding 2 righthand needles together, rotate them 180 degrees so that back needle is now in front and front needle is now in back, and inside of CO edge is now on top, facing upward (photo 2), to keep CO edge to inside of Pocket. Continue to divide remaining doubled sts on left-hand needle until all sts are divided equally onto 2 circ needles—104 sts (52 sts each needle). FIRST POCKET

Note: You will now begin to work back and forth across both needles to create the Pocket. On RS rows, you will work the outside of the Pocket; you will work first across Needle 1, then turn the work so that Needle 2 is facing you, and work across Needle 2. On WS rows, you will work in the opposite direction, working the inside of the Pocket.

SECOND POCKET

Cut 1 of the strands of yarn, leaving an 8" tail. With inside of CO edge facing up, using remaining strand of yarn, begin working across back needle (NEEDLE 2): K2, p2, [k2, p2] 13 times, turn. Note: RS is now facing you, and next row begins at outer, open edge of Pocket. ROW 1 (RS): NEEDLE 1: Slip 1, k1, p2, [k2, p2] 12 times; NEEDLE 2: [k2, p2] 13 times. ROW 2: NEEDLE 2: Slip 1, k1, p2, [k2, p2] 12 times; NEEDLE 1: [k2, p2] 13 times. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eleven times, then Repeat Row 1 once, ending at open edge of Pocket (Pocket should measure 5 ½"). SET-UP ROW (WS):

2

FIRST AND SECOND POCKET

Turn Pocket inside out so that RSs are facing and Needles 1 and 2 are held together. Using smaller needle, BO 12 sts as follows: K2tog-2n, [k2tog-2n, pso, p2tog-2n, pso, p2tog-2n, pso, k2tog-2n, pso] 3 times. Turn pocket RS out. Slip last st onto free end of 1 circ needle. Holding both needles together in left hand, k2tog-2n, *[p2tog-2n] twice, [k2tog-2n] twice; repeat from * until 2 sts remain on both needles, [p2tog-2n] twice—40 sts remain on 1 needle. End of Pockets

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PROJE CTS

SQ UA R E ARC H E S

’m a firm believer in repetition as a tool for unifying and strengthening a design, and a square shape, starting with the toe, is the recurring theme in Square Arches. In these modernist slippers, the three arches not only enhance the design but also help the slippers to stay comfortably in place. S I ZE S

N OTES

One size

The Slippers are worked back and forth on two double-pointed needles, starting with the Top of Toe, and working toward the tip of the Toe. The Bottom of Toe is attached to the Top as it’s knit. The circular needle is used to knit the Arches.

F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

7 ½" long from back of Heel 6" Foot circumference YA RN

Berroco Blackstone Tweed (65% wool / 25% superkid mohair / 10% angora rabbit; 130 yards / 50 grams): 2 balls #2636 Wharf N E E DL E S

One 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 4 (3.5 mm) One pair double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 4 (3.5 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

TO P O F TO E Using Long-Tail CO (see page 110), CO 22 sts. Knit 2 rows (4 rows for a longer Slipper), slipping first st of each row. *Work even in Garter st for 11 rows, slipping first st of each row. NEXT ROW (WS): Slip 1, k3, k2tog, knit to last 6 sts, k2tog, k4—20 sts remain. Repeat from * twice—16 sts remain.

N OTI O N S

S H A P E TO P O F TO E

Removable markers

Note: Top of Toe is shaped using short rows (see page 148). SHORT ROW 1 (RS): K14, w&t. SHORT ROW 2: K12, w&t. SHORT ROW 3: K10, w&t.

GAU G E

15 sts and 40 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Garter stitch (knit every row)

22

K8, w&t. Work to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them. Knit 2 rows, working remaining wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them.

SHORT ROW 4: SHORT ROW 5:

BOTTO M O F TO E Note: Bottom of Toe is worked until it is same length as Top of Toe, picking up edge sts from Top of Toe to join pieces. To make it easier to pick up edge sts, clip removable markers onto edge sts to be picked up from next purl ridge. Use the markers to lift the sts onto working needle. Once sts have been attached to Top of Toe, move markers to next free purl bumps on both edges. Bottom of Toe is shaped at same time as it is joined with Top of Toe; please read through entire section before beginning.

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SQUARE ARCHES

Begin Arch

Wyif, pick up edge st from next purl ridge of Top of Toe, and place on left-hand needle, k2tog, knit to end. ROW 2: Wyib, pick up edge st from same purl ridge of Top of Toe, and place on left-hand needle, k2tog, knit to end. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until Bottom of Toe is same length as Top of Toe, ending with a WS row, and AT THE SAME TIME, beginning on 10th row of Bottom of Toe, shape Bottom of Toe as follows: ROW 1 (RS):

1

S H A P E B OT TO M O F TO E

Continuing to work Bottom of Toe and join it to Top of Toe increase 1 st each side this row, then every 10 rows twice, as follows: Wyib, pick up edge st from Top of Toe and place on left-hand needle, k2tog, work 3 sts, M1, work to last 4 sts, M1—22 sts.

NEXT ROW (WS):

FO OT Work even for 14 rows, slipping first st of each row. NEXT ROW: Slip 1, k3, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k4—20 sts remain. Leave sts on needle; set aside.

2

ARCHE S With circ needle (Arch needle) pick up and knit 3 sts from purl bumps on WS (inside), next to first needle (photo 1); AO-f 22 sts onto Arch needle, then pick up and knit 3 sts from last 3 purl bumps next to opposite end of first needle (photo 2)—28 sts. **SET-UP ROW:

Note: Do not work wraps together with wrapped sts on following short rows. SHORT ROWS 1 AND 2: Working sts on Arch needle only, k3, w&t, knit to edge. SHORT ROWS 3 AND 4: K2, k2tog, w&t, knit to edge—27 sts remain. SHORT ROWS 5 AND 6: Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4—26 sts remain.

24

SHORT ROWS 7 AND 8:

K4, w&t,

knit to edge. SHORT ROWS 9 AND 10:

K5, w&t,

knit to edge. SHORT ROWS 11 AND 12:

K6, w&t,

knit to edge. SHORT ROWS 13 AND 14: K8, w&t, knit to edge. Knit 1 row. Repeat Short Rows 1–14 once—24 sts remain.

Work even for 5 rows. BO all sts knitwise. Cut yarn, leaving a 6" tail. NEXT ROW (RS): With RS of Bottom facing, rejoin yarn to sts on dpn; work even in Garter st for 8 rows (4 Garter ridges), slipping first st of each row. Repeat from ** twice. HE E L Change to circ needle; work even in Garter st for 4 rows, slipping first st of each row. Note: There are now 6 Garter ridges between last Arch and needle. The edge sts along these ridges are where you will eventually pick up sts while shaping back of Heel. SHAPE HEEL

Note: Do not work wraps together with wrapped sts on all following short rows. The following short-row section works bottom of Heel. SHORT ROW 1 (RS): Slip 1, k18, w&t. SHORT ROW 2: K18, w&t. SHORT ROW 3: K17, w&t. SHORT ROW 4: K16, w&t. SHORT ROW 5: K15, w&t. SHORT ROW 6: K14, w&t. SHORT ROW 7: K13, w&t. SHORT ROW 8: K12, w&t. SHORT ROW 9: K11, w&t. SHORT ROW 10: K10, w&t. SHORT ROW 11: K9, w&t. SHORT ROW 12: K8, w&t.

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Note: The following short-row section works back of Heel. SHORT ROW 13: K9, w&t. SHORT ROW 14: K10, w&t. SHORT ROW 15: K11, w&t. SHORT ROW 16: K12, w&t. SHORT ROW 17: K13, w&t. SHORT ROW 18: K14, w&t. SHORT ROW 19: K15, w&t. SHORT ROW 20: K16, w&t. SHORT ROW 21: K17, w&t. SHORT ROWS 22 AND 23: K18, w&t, knit to end. Note: In the following short-row section, sts are picked up along side edges between last Arch and beginning of Heel. Sts are picked up with left-hand end of circ needle, then each w&t is worked around the picked-up st. SHORT ROW 24: Pick up 1 st, w&t. SHORT ROW 25: K20, pick up 1 st, w&t. SHORT ROW 26: K21, pick up 1 st, w&t. SHORT ROW 27: K22, pick up 1 st, w&t. SHORT ROW 28: K23, pick up 1 st, w&t. SHORT ROW 29: K24, pick up 1 st, w&t. SHORT ROW 30: K25, pick up 1 st, w&t. SHORT ROW 31: K26, pick up and knit 1 st—28 sts. SHORT ROW 32: Slip 1, k25, w&t. SHORT ROW 33: K24, w&t. SHORT ROW 34: K22, w&t. SHORT ROW 35: K9, k2tog, k9, w&t—27 sts remain. SHORT ROW 36: K17, w&t. SHORT ROW 37: K15, w&t. SHORT ROW 38: K6, k2tog, k5, w&t—26 sts remain. SHORT ROW 39: K10, w&t. ROW 40: [K2, k2tog] twice, knit to end—24 sts. SHORT ROWS 41 AND 42: K4, w&t, work to edge.

SHORT ROWS 43 AND 44:

K6, w&t,

work to edge. SHORT ROWS 45 AND 46:

Knit.

SHORT ROWS 63 AND 64:

K8, w&t,

work to edge.

K10, w&t,

work to edge.

work to edge. SHORT ROWS 47 AND 48:

ROW 62:

SHORT ROWS 65 AND 66:

work to edge. ROW 49: Knit.

SHORT ROWS 67 AND 68:

SHORT ROWS 50–57: Repeat Short Rows 41–48. ROW 58: Knit. ROW 59: K11, k2tog, knit to end—23 sts remain. ROW 60: Knit. ROW 61: K10, k2tog, knit to end—22 sts remain.

K10, w&t, K7, w&t, K4, w&t,

work to edge. ROW 69: Knit. SHORT ROWS 70–75: Repeat Short Rows 63–68. BO all sts knitwise.

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PROJE CTS

HOODE D COWL

here’s more than one way to wear this cowl. At its simplest, it’s a traditional neck warmer, but when you need extra protection from the cold, you can pull up the hood for an extra snuggly head and ear warmer. The hood also helps keep the cowl raised over your nose and cheeks. F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

N OTES

5" wide x 20" circumference

The Hood is worked from the front to the back using short rows. Once you reach the back, the Hood will begin to transform into a large pleat that folds from the back to the right side of the Hood. While working the pleat, stitches are reduced by almost half, with the remaining stitches used to work the front of the cowl.

YA RN

Malabrigo Yarn Chunky (100% merino wool; 104 yards / 100 grams): 2 hanks #123 Rhodesian N E E DL E S

One 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 10 (6 mm) One 24" (60 cm) long circular needle smaller than size US 10 (6 mm), for Finishing One straight needle size US 10 (6 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. GAU G E

22 sts and 18 rows = 4" (10 cm) in K1, P1 Rib, unstretched

26

[K1, p1] 16 times, w&t. [K1, p1] 14 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 10: [K1, p1] 12 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 11: K1, [p1, k1] to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them. SHORT ROW 12: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 18 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 13: K1, [p1, k1] to end. SHORT ROW 14: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 15 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 15: K1, [p1, k1] to end. SHORT ROW 16: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 29 times, working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them, w&t. SHORT ROW 17: K1, [p1, k1] to end. SHORT ROW 18: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 27 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 19: [K1, p1] 26 times (3 sts from end), w&t. SHORT ROW 20: [K1, p1] 24 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 21: [K1, p1] 22 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 22: [K1, p1] 20 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 8:

HO O D Using larger circ needle and Long-Tail CO (see page 110), CO 64 sts. Note: Slip all sts purlwise. Hood is shaped using short rows (see page 148). SHORT ROW 1 (WS): Slip 1, [k1, p1] 31 times (1 st from end), w&t. SHORT ROW 2: [K1, p1] 28 times (7 sts from end; 3 sts from end when repeated on Row 32), w&t. SHORT ROW 3: [K1, p1] 26 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 4: [K1, p1] 24 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 5: [K1, p1] 22 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 6: [K1, p1] 20 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 7: [K1, p1] 18 times, w&t.

SHORT ROW 9:

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PROJE CTS

H O O D E D C OW L

Note: The next row separates first 30 sts onto straight needle (SN) to begin working large fold. These 30 sts will be merged into remaining 34 sts on circ needle, forming back and right side of Hood. While working circ needle, 2 sts on SN will be worked together with 2 sts on circ needle every other row until no sts remain on SN. On odd-numbered rows that follow, work p2tog-2n with 1 st from circ needle together with 1 st from SN; work k2tog-2n with 1 st from SN together with 1 st from circ needle. ROW 47 (WS): Using SN, slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] 14 times; using circ, [p1, k1] to end. Note: For all following rows, use free end of circ needle to work across sts. ROW 48 AND ALL EVEN-NUMBERED ROWS

Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] 16 times (to end of circ), turn. ROW 49: Fold SN to the left so that it is now in front of and parallel to circ needle; using circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ—28 sts remain on SN. ROW 51: Slip 1, k1, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ—26 sts remain on SN. ROW 53: Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ—24 sts remain on SN. ROW 55: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] twice, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ—22 sts remain on SN. ROW 57: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] 3 times, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ—20 sts remain on SN. ROW 59: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] 4 times, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ—18 sts remain on SN. ROW 61: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] 5 times, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ—16 sts remain on SN. THROUGH ROW 76:

[K1, p1] 18 times, w&t. [K1, p1] 16 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 25: K1, [p1, k1] to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them. SHORT ROW 26: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 19 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 27: K1, [p1, k1] to end. SHORT ROW 28: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 17 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 29: K1, [p1, k1] to end. SHORT ROW 30: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 15 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 31: [K1, p1] 13 times (5 sts from end), w&t. SHORT ROW 23: SHORT ROW 24:

28

SHORT ROWS 32–41: Repeat Short Rows 2–11, working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them on Row 32. SHORT ROW 42: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 20 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 43: K1, [p1, k1] to end. SHORT ROW 44: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 18 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 45: K1, [p1, k1] to end. ROW 46 (RS): Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them.

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ROW 63: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] 6 times, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ— 14 sts remain on SN. ROW 65: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] 7 times, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ— 12 sts remain on SN. ROW 67: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] 8 times, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ— 10 sts remain on SN. ROW 69: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] 9 times, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ— 8 sts remain on SN. ROW 71: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] 10 times, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ— 6 sts remain on SN. ROW 73: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] 11 times, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ— 4 sts remain on SN.

ROW 75: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] 12 times, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ— 2 sts remain on SN. ROW 77: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] 13 times, holding SN in front of circ, p2tog-2n, k2tog-2n, [p1, k1] to end of circ— 34 sts remain. Note: All sts are now merged and you are at bottom edge of Hood. Place a marker on this edge.

Connecting Cowl to Hood

1

COWL Work even for 16 rows, slipping first st of each row. Note: In following short row sections, work wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them. F I R S T S H O RT  ROW S E C T I O N

Slip 1, [k1, p1] 5 times, w&t, work to end. SHORT ROWS 3 AND 4: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 11 times, w&t, work to end. Work even for 18 rows, slipping first st of each row, and ending at bottom edge. SHORT ROWS 1 (RS) AND 2 (WS):

SHORT ROWS 9 AND 10: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 7 times, w&t, work to end. SHORT ROWS 11 AND 12: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 5 times, w&t, work to end. SHORT ROWS 13 AND 14: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 3 times, w&t, work to end. SHORT ROWS 15 AND 16: Slip 1, k1, p1, w&t, work to end. ROWS 17 AND 18: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] to end. ROW 19: Slip 1, k1, [k2tog] to last 2 sts, p1, k1—20 sts remain; do not cut yarn.

FINISHING C O N N E C T C OW L TO H O O D

S E C O N D S H O RT  ROW S E C T I O N

Slip 1, [k1, p1] 11 times, w&t, work to end. SHORT ROWS 3 AND 4: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 5 times, w&t, work to end. Work even for 16 rows, slipping first st of each row, and ending at bottom edge. SHORT ROWS 1 (RS) AND 2 (WS):

With RS of Hood facing, using smaller circ needle, beginning at front edge of Hood, [pick up 1 st from WS, next to slipped edge st] 20 times (lower needle in photo 1; sts are slipped to end of needle, ready to work). With WSs of Cowl and Hood together, join sts using Three-Needle BO (see page 122).

T H I R D S H O RT  ROW S E C T I O N

Note: The next section of short rows extends lower edge of Cowl so bottom edge will reach to center back of Hood. SHORT ROWS 1 (RS) AND 2 (WS): Slip 1, [k1, p1] 15 times, w&t, work to end. SHORT ROWS 3 AND 4: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 13 times, w&t, work to end. SHORT ROWS 5 AND 6: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 11 times, w&t, work to end. SHORT ROWS 7 AND 8: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 9 times, w&t, work to end.

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PROJE CTS

S TA C K E D N E C K L A C E

nitting this necklace, with its contemporary and uncomplicated design, is a quick way to learn the CAPS technique (page 154). It’s also a great way to enjoy wearing your knitting when it’s not yet cold enough for a sweater. F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

NE CKLACE

CABLED BAND

Approximately 3" wide at widest point x 24" circumference

R E C TA N G L E S

Bind off 4 sts, p6, k1. Slip 1 purlwise wyif, k6, p1-hw. ROW 3: Slip 1 knitwise, p6, k1. ROW 4: Slip 1 purlwise, slip 3 sts to third dpn and hold to front, k3, k3 from dpn, p1. ROWS 5 AND 7: Slip 1 knitwise, p6, k1. ROWS 6 AND 8: Slip 1 purlwise, k6, p1. Repeat Rows 3–8 twelve times. Repeat Rows 3–5 once.

YA RN

Blue Sky Alpacas Worsted Hand Dyes (50% royal alpaca / 50% merino; 100 yards / 100 grams): 1 hank Ecru N E E DL E S

One set of three double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 8 (mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. GAU G E

16 sts and 32 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Garter stitch (knit every row) N OTE S

Working with one continuous strand of yarn, each new Rectangle is worked next to the previous Rectangle using the CAPS technique (see page 154). Each Rectangle adds only one row to the length of the necklace.

30

ROW 1 (WS):

Using Long-Tail CO (see page 110), CO 12 sts. Knit 7 rows. ROW 1 (WS): BO 6 sts, slipping first st, knit to end—6 sts remain. ROW 2 (MAKE A RECTANGLE): AO-h 3 sts (see page 113), AO-f 12 sts, [k11, k2tog, w&t, k12, turn] twice, k11, k2tog; do not turn. Fold right-hand needle to the left, so that needles are together, with RSs together and tips pointing to the right; with third dpn, [k2tog-2n (1 st from needle with Rectangle together with 1 st from back needle)] 6 times, k6. ROW 3: Knit. ROW 4: Slip 1 knitwise, knit to end. Repeat Rows 1–4 twelve times.

ROW 2:

FINISHING With WS facing, using an empty dpn, and beginning at inside edge, pick up (but do not knit) 8 sts from second row of purl bumps of first Rectangle (photo 1). Hold dpn with picked-up sts in front of working needle; using Three-Needle BO (see page 122), bind off all sts (photo 2).

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Finishing

1

2

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M E R M I TT E N S

hese slim-fitting mittens, which begin at the fingertips, use the Speed Increase (page 127 ) to double the number of stitches with the least visual disruption. Other increases distort adjacent stitches to a much greater degree, and that distortion becomes even more noticeable when increasing in consecutive stitches. The Speed Increase is also used to quickly flare the Stockinette stitch cuff, creating a minimalist yet interesting effect. I gave these mittens the name mer, which means “sea” in French, because of the sea anemone –like curl on the topside of the wrist. \\\ The thumb shape is a blending of gusseted and afterthought-style thumbs. The term “afterthought thumb,” originated by Elizabeth Zimmermann, refers to thumb stitches that are established with waste yarn, then left to be finished later. LE FT MITT E N

S I ZE S

N OTION S

Medium (Large)

Waste yarn; stitch marker

F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

GAU GE

7 ¾ (8 ½)" circumference

19 sts and 30 rows = 4” (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st)

YA RN

Berroco Blackstone Tweed (65% wool / 25% superkid mohair / 10% angora rabbit; 130 yards / 50 grams): 2 balls #2608 Quahog N E E DL E S

Two 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needles size US 5 (3.75 mm) One set of five double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 5 (3.75 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

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N OTE

Mittens are worked from the Fingertip down to the Cuffs. A Thumb Opening is created with waste yarn; the Thumb is picked up and worked after the Hand is finished.

F I N G E RT I P

Using Turkish Cast-On (see page 118), CO 12 (14) sts [6 (7) loops], leaving 18" tail that will be used for Speed Increase (see page 127). Knit across upper needle, so that working yarn and tail are at the same side. Rotate needles so that lower needle is now in upper position. SPEED INCREASE RND 1: Slip slipknot from upper needle. Holding yarn and CO tail together, knit to end. SPEED INCREASE RND 2: Drop tail; continuing with working yarn, knit to end, working each strand individually—24 (28) sts; 12 (14) sts each needle.

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MER MITTENS

SET-UP ROW FOR TUBULAR KNITTING:

Change to knitting back and forth. Holding both needles together, and using free end of either needle, [yf, slip 1 from back needle, yb, k1 from front needle] to end to combine all sts onto 1 needle, turn; [yf, slip 1, yb, k1] to end. Note: Each following row requires that you work across the sts twice; once to work 1 side of the Mitten, and once to work the opposite side. You may wish to place marker at beginning of first side to keep track of where you began the row. ROW 1: [Yf, slip 1, yb, k1] to end, turn; [yf, slip 1, yb, k1] to end. ROW 2 (INCREASE ROW): Yf, slip 1, yb, LLI, k1, yf, slip 1, [yb, k1, yf, slip 1] to last st, LLI, k1, turn; yf, slip 2, yb, k1, [yf, slip 1, yb, k1] to last 3 sts, yf, slip 2, yb, k1— 26 (30) sts. ROW 3 (INCREASE ROW): Yf, slip 1, yb, k2, [yf, slip 1, yb, k1] to last 3 sts, yf, slip 1, yb, k2; turn; yf, slip 1, yb, LLI, [yf, slip 1, yb, k1] to last 3 sts, yf, slip 1, yb, LLI, yf, slip 1, yb, k1—28 (32) sts. Repeat Rows 1–3 once—32 (36) sts after Row 3. HAND

Repeat Row 1 until piece measures 4 ¾ (5 ½)" from the beginning. Divide sts onto 2 circ needles by [slipping 1 st to back needle, then 1 st to front needle] to end—16 (18) sts each needle. Note: Check fit of Mitten at this point; it should nestle into crotch between thumb and forefinger. THUMB OPENING

Knit; NEEDLE 2: Change to waste yarn, k7 (8), slip these 7 (8) sts back to left-hand needle, change to working yarn, knit to end. NEXT RND: NEEDLE 1:

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BASE OF HAND

Work even until piece measures 6 ½ (7 ¾)" from the beginning, or to beginning of wrist. Leave sts on needle; do not cut yarn.

NEXT RND: NEEDLE 1: k2tog, knit to last 2 sts on Needle 2, k2tog; NEEDLE 3: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts on Needle 4, k2tog— 8 (10) sts remain [4-4 (5-5)]. Graft sts using Kitchener st (see page 122).

THUMB

CUFFS

Note: The Thumb is worked at this point to facilitate trying the Mitten on to make sure it fits properly. With Fingertip pointing downward, insert 1 dpn into each of the sts below waste yarn (see photo 2, Little Bias Poncho, page 68); insert a second dpn into each of the sts above waste yarn. Remove waste yarn (see photo 3, Little Bias Poncho, page 68) —7 (8) sts on each dpn. Turn Mitten so Fingertip is facing away from you. Slip 4 sts from right-hand end of bottom needle onto empty dpn (Needle 1), and 4 sts from right-hand end of top needle onto empty dpn (Needle 4)—3 (4) sts remain on Needles 2 and 3. Join for working in the rnd; pm for beginning of rnd. NEXT RND: Join yarn. NEEDLE 1: LLI, k4 (4); NEEDLE 2: K3 (4), pick up and k1-tbl in st between needles; NEEDLE 3: LLI, k3 (4); NEEDLE 4: K4 (4), pick up and k1-tbl in st between needles—18 (20) sts [5-4-4-5 (5-5-5-5)]. Begin St st (knit every rnd); work even for 3 rnds. DECREASE RND: NEEDLE 1: K2tog, knit to end; NEEDLES 2 AND 3: Knit; NEEDLE 4: K2tog, knit to end—16 (18) sts remain [4-4-4-4 (4-5-5-4)]. Knit 1 rnd. Repeat Decrease Rnd every other rnd twice—12 (14) sts remain [2-4-4-2 (2-5-5-2)]. Work even until piece measures 2 ¾ (3)", or is long enough to reach tip of thumb.

K0 (2), [k2tog, k2] to end of needle; NEEDLE 2: K0 (2), [k2tog, k2] to end of needle—24 (28) sts remain [12-12 (14-14)]. Note: Mitten should slip easily over hand but be snug at wrist. Adjust number of decreases if necessary for desired fit. The following shaping will work with any number of sts, but keep in mind the amount of stretch in the knit fabric, and that Cuffs will flare after working Decrease Rnd. Work even for 5 rnds. DECREASE RND: NEEDLE 1:

RND 10: NEEDLE 1: Knit; NEEDLE 2: K2, holding 2 strands of yarn together, knit to last 2 sts, drop second strand, k2. RND 11: NEEDLE 1: Knit; NEEDLE 2: With a single strand of yarn, knit every loop individually. RND 12: Knit. BO all sts knitwise.

RIG HT MITT E N Work as for Left Mitten to Thumb Opening. THUMB OPENING

Knit; NEEDLE 2: Knit to last k7 (8), change to waste yarn, slip these 7 (8) sts back to left-hand needle, change to working yarn, knit to end. Work Base of Hand as for Left Mitten.

NEXT RND: NEEDLE 1:

THUMB SHAPE CUFF

Note: Cuff is shaped by doubling all sts on back-of-hand needle using Speed Increase (page 127), while knitting all sts on palm needle. RND 1: NEEDLE 1 (PALM): Knit; NEEDLE 2 (BACK OF HAND): K3, holding 2 strands of yarn together and leaving 20" tail on second strand, knit to last 3 sts, drop second strand, k3. RND 2: NEEDLE 1: Knit; NEEDLE 2: Knit, working loops from Speed Increase separately to double sts. RNDS 3 AND 4: Knit, moving tail to right over top of working yarn on 4th st on Needle 2, to weave tail in over these 2 rnds. RND 5: NEEDLE 1: Knit; NEEDLE 2: K3, holding tail from Rnd 1 and working yarn together, knit to last 3 sts, drop second strand, knit to end. RND 6: Repeat Rnd 2. RNDS 7–9: Repeat Rnd 3.

Work Thumb as for Left Mitten to Decrease Rnd. DECREASE RND: NEEDLE 1: Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog; NEEDLES 2 AND 3: Knit; NEEDLE 4: Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—16 (18) sts remain [4-4-4-4 (4-5-5-4)]. Knit 1 rnd. Complete as for Left Mitten.

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S I M PL E H AT

imple Hat was inspired by a two-tone hat in Prada’s Fall 2007 collection. This modish accessory has been especially popular with the twentysomethings in my family, but it looks great on people of all ages. Since it’s uncomplicated and worked on large needles, it’s easy to keep up with requests. F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

STITCH PATTERN

18" circumference x 7 ½ (9)" height Note: 7 ½" height shown.

Double Moss Stitch for swatching (multiple of 4 sts; 4-row repeat) Rows 1 and 2: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end. Rows 3 and 4: *P2, k2; repeat from * to end. Repeat Rows 1–4 for Double Moss Stitch.

YA RN

Quince & Co. Osprey (100% wool; 100 yards / 170 grams): 1 hank Split Pea N E E DL E S

One 16" (40 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 10 ½ (6.5 mm) One set of five double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 10 ½ (6.5 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. N OTI O N S

Four stitch markers in two colors (2 in color A, 2 in color B); large eye tapestry needle GAU G E

11 sts and 20 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Double Moss Stitch, using 2 strands of yarn held together

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HAT Notes: 1) Hat is worked with WS facing out. 2) Sts between color A markers are Front of Hat; sts between color B markers are Back of Hat; sts between different color markers are left and right Sides. Using circ needle and 2 strands of yarn held together, CO 63 sts as follows: 16 sts using Long-Tail CO (see page 110), pm color A, 15 sts using Reverse LongTail CO (see page 111), pm color A, 16 sts using Long-Tail CO, pm color B, 15 sts using Reverse Long-Tail CO, pm color B, 1 st using Long-Tail CO.

SET-UP RND: Holding end with attached yarn in your right hand, slip 1 st from right-hand needle to left-hand needle, k2tog ( joining ends to work in the rnd); [p2, k2] 3 times, p2, k1, sm, p1, [k1, p1] 7 times, sm, k1, [p2, k2] 3 times, p2, k1, sm, p1, [k1, p1] 7 times—62 sts remain. NEXT RND: Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts as they face you. RNDS 1 AND 2: *K1, [k2, p2] 3 times, k3, sm, p1, [k1, p1] 7 times, sm; repeat from * once. RNDS 3 AND 4: *K1, [p2, k2] 3 times, p2, k1, sm, p1 [k1, p1] 7 times, sm; repeat from * once. Repeat Rnds 1–4 five (6) times, then repeat Rnd 1 once more (piece should measure approximately 4 ½ (6)".

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S I M P L E H AT

S H A P E C ROW N

Notes: 1) As you work Crown shaping, in both Side sections, always knit first and last sts and maintain Double Moss St when working non-decrease rnds. 2) Change to dpns when necessary for number of sts on needle; place each section on its own needle. DECREASE RND: Decrease 4 sts this rnd, every other rnd 4 times, then every rnd twice, as follows: SECTION 1 (SIDE): Ssk, work in pattern to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm; SECTION 2 (FRONT): P1, [k1, p1] 7 times, sm; SECTIONS 3 (SIDE) AND 4 (BACK): Repeat Sections 1 and 2—34 sts remain (2 sts each Side section; 15 sts each Front and Back). Slip 1 st from each Side section onto each end of Front Section needle and 1 st onto each end of Back Section needle. GRAFT SECTIONS 2 AND 4 TO G E T H E R

Note: Divided Rib Graft (see page 123) is used to keep rib at top of Hat from stretching or flaring and creates the illusion that front and back rib is one continuous section. Divide sts from Front Section needle onto 2 dpns by slipping knit sts to front dpn and purl sts to back dpn. Repeat with sts from Back Section needle. Cut yarn, leaving 30" tails, and thread both tails onto tapestry needle. Using Kitchener st (see page 122), graft knit sts from front and back dpns together. Turn Hat RS out and graft sts from remaining 2 dpns together.

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F A N CY M A R K E T B A G

ancy Market Bag is not your usual mesh market bag. The unusual stitch pattern has the stretchability needed to carry produce and bread and is sturdier than the typical lattice used for many market bags. This less flimsy stitch allows it to also work well as an everyday tote—just insert a simple sewn liner. \\\ The stitch pattern, a variation of Rocking Rib (page 159 ) that has been modified to work in the round, is an example of how unit stitch patterns can be incorporated into projects using the CAPS technique (page 154 ). Unit stitch patterns are modular in structure, with each unit, or repeating design element, completed before working the next unit within the row. I categorized stitch patterns like this under the heading “rows within rows” in my book Reversible Knitting. F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

12 ¼" wide x 14" long, not including Strap YA RN

Cascade Yarns Sierra (80% pima cotton / 20% wool; 191 yards / 100 grams): 3 hanks #428 Tangerine N E E DL E S

Two 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needles size US 6 (4 mm); Note: You may wish to use 2 needles of different materials for easier differentiation while working. One set of four double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 4 (3.5 mm), for Finishing N OTI O N S

Two stitch markers; ½ yard 54"-wide cotton fabric (optional); ½ yard 44"-wide cotton fabric (optional); sewing machine or sewing needle and matching thread (optional)

Fabric for Optional Liner ½ Yard 54"-wide Liberty of London Classic Prints, Tana Lawn Cotton, Edenham 3637071K (red and blue flowers on ivory). ½ Yard 44"-wide Kaffe Fassett Shot Cotton, Clementine-SC80 (reddish orange).

MARKE T BAG Using Double-Loop CO (see page 120), CO 80 sts (160 loops). Divide loops evenly onto 2 circ needles (80 stitches each needle).

GAU GE

NEXT RND: Holding both needles facing you, with CO edge to the back, working across upper needle first, as follows: *[K1, p1] to end of Needle (N1), turn; [k1, p1] to end of Needle (N2). Work even for 3 rnds.

30 sts and 27 rows = 4" (10 cm) in K1, P1 Rib, using larger needle, unstretched N OTES

Bag is worked in the round from the bottom up, with the cast-on edge turned to the inside of the Bag. Do not confuse p1-hw and p1-w! P1-hw works the wrap around the next stitch together with the stitch it wraps, while p1-w purls the wrap around a wrapped stitch, to increase one stitch. P1-w is always followed by p1, which purls the original stitch that was wrapped.

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FA N C Y M A R K E T B A G

SET-UP RND:

[K1, p1] 3 times, k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, *[p1, k1] twice, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, repeat from * 5 times, p1, pm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N2 (WS): Repeat N1. N1 (RS):

RND 1:

Notes: 1) Work all yos through trailing leg to close (see Yarnover Increase, page 130). 2) With the exception of sts slipped when working w&t, slip sts knitwise. 3) The first time Rnd 1 is worked, substitute M1-p-L for p1-w. N1 (RS): K1, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w (M1-p-L on first repeat of Pattern Rnd 1 only), p1, turn; slip 1, [k1, p1] 3 times; N2 (WS): [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, k1, p1-hw, turn; slip 1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N1: [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times; N2: [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N1: [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, p1, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 4 times; N2: [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N1: K1, p1, *k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, p1, k1, p1, do not turn; AO-h 3 sts, k1-hw, p1, k1, p1-w (M1-p-L on first repeat of Pattern Rnd 1 only), p1, turn; slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] twice, yo, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, yo, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] twice, yo, p1, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2tog, w&t (slipping st to right-hand needle knitwise, then back to left-hand needle purlwise); repeat from * 5 times; K1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, p1, k1, p1, do not turn; AO-h 3 sts, k1-hw, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times. N2 (RS): K1, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w (M1-p-L on first repeat of Pattern Rnd 1 only), p1, turn; slip 1, [k1, p1] 3 times;

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[K1, p1] 10 times, sm, k1, p2tog, w&t; k1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N2: [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times; N1: [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, k1, p2tog, w&t; k1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N2: [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, p1, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 4 times; N1: [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, k1, p2tog, w&t (slipping st to right-hand needle knitwise, then back to left-hand needle purlwise); k1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N2: K1, p1, **k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, p1, k1, p1, do not turn; AO-h 3 sts, k1-hw, p1, k1, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] twice, yo, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, yo, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] twice, yo, p1, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2tog, w&t (slipping st to right-hand needle knitwise, then back to left-hand needle purlwise); repeat from ** 5 times; K1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, p1, k1, p1, do not turn; k1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times. N1 (WS):

RND 2:

K1, M1-p-L, p1, turn; slip 1, k1, p1; [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p1-hw, turn; slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N1: K1, p1, yo, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, yo, k1, p1; N2: [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, [k1, p1] 3 times, turn; slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N1: K1, p1, yo, p1, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice; N2: [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, [k1, p1] 3 times, turn; slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times. N1: [K1, p1] 3 times, do not turn; AO-h 3 sts, k1-hw, p1, k1, p1-w, p1, turn; Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [k1, p1] twice, yo, p1, turn; Slip 1, p1, yo, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [k1, p1] twice, yo, p1, k1, p1, turn;

N1: N2:

Slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2tog, w&t (slipping st to right-hand needle knitwise, then back to left-hand needle purlwise), *K1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, p1, k1, p1, do not turn; AO-h 3 sts, k1-hw, p1, k1, p1-w, p1, turn; Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [k1, p1] twice, yo, p1, turn; Slip 1, p1, yo, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [k1, p1] twice, yo, p1, k1, p1, turn; Slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2tog, w&t (slipping st to right-hand needle knitwise, then back to left-hand needle purlwise); repeat from * 4 times, k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, p1, k1, p1, do not turn; AO-h 3 sts, K1-hw, p1, k1, p1-hw, k1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times. N2: K1, M1-p-L, p1, turn; slip 1, k1, p1; N1: [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [k1, p1] 3 times, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N2: K1, p1, yo, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, yo, k1, p1; N1: [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [k1, p1] 3 times, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N2: K1, p1, yo, p1, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice; N1: [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, [k1, p1] 3 times, slip 2 sts purlwise, pso, yb, slip 1 st back to left-hand needle, yf, turn; k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N2: [K1, p1] 3 times, do not turn; **AO-h 3 sts, k1-hw, p1, k1, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] twice, yo, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, yo, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] twice, yo, p1, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2tog, w&t (slipping st to right-hand needle knitwise, then back to left-hand needle purlwise); K1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, p1, k1, p1, do not turn; repeat from ** 5 times;

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FA N C Y M A R K E T B A G

slip last st from right-hand needle to left-hand needle, pass second st on left-hand needle over slipped st and off needle, slip 1 wyib from left-hand to right-hand needle, p1, k1, pso, p1, pso, k1, pso, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times. Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 five times. FINAL RND:

Note: This is nearly a repeat of Rnd 1, except that sts are not BO, but worked as they appear. N1 (RS): [K1, p1] twice, k1, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, [k1, p1] 3 times; N2 (WS): [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, k1, p1-hw, turn; slip 1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N1: [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times; N2: [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N1: [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, p1, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 4 times; N2: [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N1: [K1, p1] 5 times, do not turn; *AO-h 3 sts, k1-hw, p1, k1, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] twice, yo, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, yo, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] twice, yo, p1, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2tog, w&t (slipping st to right-hand needle knitwise, then back to left-hand needle purlwise); [K1, p1] 4 times, do not turn; Repeat from * 5 times. AO-h 3 sts, k1-hw, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times. N2 (RS): [K1, p1] twice, k1, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, [k1, p1] 3 times; N1 (WS): [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, k1, p2tog, w&t; k1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N2: [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times;

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[K1, p1] 10 times, sm, k1, p2tog, w&t; k1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N2: [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, p1, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 4 times; N1: [K1, p1] 10 times, sm, k1, p2tog, w&t (slipping st to right-hand needle knitwise, then back to left-hand needle purlwise); k1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times; N2: [K1, p1] 5 times, do not turn; **AO-h 3 sts, k1-hw, p1, k1, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] twice, yo, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, yo, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] twice, yo, p1, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2tog, w&t (slipping st to right-hand needle knitwise, then back to left-hand needle purlwise); [K1, p1] 4 times, do not turn. Repeat from ** 5 times. K1, p1, sm, [k1, p1] 10 times. Work even in K1, P1 Rib as established for 5 rnds, working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them on first rnd. N1:

BO RND:

K1 with N2. Using dpns, *slip next purl st to dpn and hold to back, k1, pso, k1 from dpn, pso; repeat from * to 3 sts before marker, slip 1, pso, slip st from dpn to circ needle. Using N1, k2tog, p1, remove marker, [k1, p1] 10 times, slip 1 st from N2, pick up 1 st from following BO st with right-hand needle, knit slipped st and picked-up sts together through back loops—23 sts remain on N1. N2: Using dpns,* slip next purl st to dpn and hold to back, k1, pso, k1 from dpn, pso; repeat from * to 3 sts before marker, slip 1, pso, slip st from dpn to circ needle, using circ needle, k2tog, p1, remove marker, [k1, p1] 10 times, slip 1 st from N2, pick up 1 st from following BO st with right-hand needle, knit slipped st and picked-up sts together through back loops—23 sts remain on N2. N1:

1

FINISHING STRAPS

Using larger needle, work even in K1, P1 Rib as established, slipping first st of every row, until Strap measures 12", or to desired length to shoulder, ending with a WS row. Rejoin yarn to beginning of remaining Strap and work even until Strap measures same length as first Strap, ending with a WS row. Divide sts onto 2 needles by slipping knit sts to front needle and purl sts to back needle. Fold Bag in half widthwise to line up Straps (photo 1); connect ends using Divided Rib Graft (see page 123).

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LINER OPTIONAL

Lay Knitted Bag flat and measure length (not including Straps) and width. Cut 1 piece of solid fabric 1" wider than Bag width, and twice length of Bag, plus 2", for inner lining. Cut 1 piece of print fabric 1" wider than Bag width, and twice length of Bag, minus 2", for outer lining. Fold inner lining fabric in half lengthwise, with RSs together; using ¼" seam allowance, sew side seams, leaving ½" opening in seam at each side edge for Tie channel, beginning 1 ½" down from top edge. Press side seams flat. Fold top 2" of top edge to WS of fabric and press. Fold outer lining fabric in half and, using ¼" seam allowance, sew side seams to the top edge. Turn RS out. Insert outer lining inside inner lining, so that RSs of lining fabrics are together, aligning side seams and top edges; pin ½" below top edge at each side seam to keep pieces from shifting. Using ¼" seam allowance, sew top edges together, leaving 2" opening anywhere but at side seams, so that you can turn pieces RS out; reinforce sts on either side of 2" opening. Press both sides of top seam toward outer lining. Turn pieces RS out through 2" opening. Hand sew opening closed. Tuck outer lining inside inner lining. To create Tie channel, beginning and ending at side seams, and working approximately ⅝" down from top edge (at top of opening for Tie channel), sew around piece. Repeat approximately 1 ¼" from top edge (at bottom of opening for Tie channel). TIE

Using crochet hook and working yarn, work crochet chain 36" long. Attach large safety pin to one end and work through Tie channel. Join ends of chain together using a slip st.

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PROJE CTS

R I PPL E VE ST

peed Increase (page 127 ) permanently interlocks the two complementary parts of this vest/shell—the minimal top and more flamboyant bottom. For both the two-tone and single-color (see page 47 ) versions, this increase doubles the number of stitches; those stitches are then divided onto two needles— one to hold the stitches for the top half, and the other to finish the few final rows of the rippled body. The division of stitches from the Speed Increase allows the ripples to overlap the upper section to create the illusion of two separate layers. S I ZE S

N OTION S

X-Small/Small (Medium, Large / 1X-Large, 2X-Large / 3X-Large)

Two stitch markers in different colors GAU GE

F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

30 ¼ (38, 45 ½, 53)" chest YA RN

Quince & Co. Osprey (100% wool; 170 yards / 100 grams): Two-Tone Version: 3 (4, 5, 6) hanks Apricot (MC); 1 hank Frost (A) Solid Version: 4 (5, 6, 7) hanks Winesap (MC) N E E DL E S

One 29" (70 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 10 (6 mm) Two 29" (70 cm) long circular (circ) needles size US 9 (5.5 mm) One 29" (70 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 8 (5 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

44

15 sts and 18 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st), using size US 9 needle 19 sts and 23 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Ripple Stitch, using size US 9 needle STITCH PATTERN

Ripple Stitch (multiple of 18 sts; 4-row repeat) Rnd 1: *[K2tog] 3 times, [k1, yo] 6 times, [k2tog] 3 times, repeat from * to end. Rnd 2: Purl. Rnds 3 and 4: Knit. Repeat Rnds 1–4 for Ripple Stitch N OTES

The Body is worked in the round from the bottom up to just past the center of the bust. Stitches for the Front and Back Bodices are added using the Speed Increase (see Adding layers with the Speed Increase, page 127), then the pieces are worked back and forth separately to the shoulders, with short-row shaping for the neck.

BO DY Using largest needle, Long-Tail CO (see page 110), and MC, CO 145 (181, 217, 253) sts; do not turn. NEXT RND: Holding needle with working yarn in your right hand, and being careful not to twist sts, slip first CO st from left-hand to right-hand end of needle, pm for beginning of rnd, purl to last 2 sts, p2tog—144 (180, 216, 252) sts remain. Knit 1 rnd. Change to Ripple Stitch; work Rnds 1–4 four times. Change to size US 9 needle; work Rnds 1–4 three times; change to smallest needle; work Rnds 1–4 seven times. Change to size US 9 needle; work even until piece measures approximately 14 (14 ¾, 15 ½, 16 ¼)" from the beginning, ending with Rnd 3 of Ripple Stitch.

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PROJE CTS

RIPPLE VEST

Note: Front and Back Bodices are created by working Speed Increase (see page 127) across sts between armholes. T W O  TO N E V E R S I O N O N LY

K2 (4, 5, 8) for armhole; holding 1 strand of A together with MC, k68 (82, 98, 110) for Back; using 1 strand of MC only, k4 (8, 10, 16) for armhole; using 1 strand of A from second ball held together with MC, k68 (82, 98, 110) for Front; using 1 strand of MC only, k2 (4, 5, 8) for armhole.

INCREASE RND:

Divide sts onto 2 needles by slipping MC sts to free end of working needle held in front and A sts to size US 9 needle held in back; do not cut A. Using largest needle, working on MC sts only, and leaving A sts on hold, work Rnds 1 and 2 of Ripple Stitch once. BO all sts knitwise. Cut working yarn and fasten off, leaving a 6" tail. S O L I D V E R S I O N O N LY

K2 (4, 5, 8) for armhole; holding 2 strands of MC together, k68 (82, 98, 110) for Back; using 1 strand of MC only, k4 (8, 10, 16) for armhole; using 2 strands of MC held together, k68 (82, 98, 110) for Front; using 1 strand of MC only, k2 (4, 5, 8) for armhole.

INCREASE RND:

Divide sts onto 2 needles by slipping 1 st of each pair to free end of working needle held in front, and 1 st to smallest circ needle held in back; do not cut strand attached to smallest needle. Working on size US 9 needle only, and leaving sts on smallest needle on hold, work Rnds 1 and 2 of Ripple Stitch once. BO all sts knitwise. Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a 6" tail.

46

FRO NT

S I Z E S - ( M , L /1 X , 2 X /3 X ) O N LY

B OT H V E R S I O N S

SHORT ROW 6:

Note: After the first WS row, Japanese Short Rows (see page 149) are worked to fill in dips from Ripple Stitch; this keeps Front and Back from pulling unevenly on ripples. Each pair of short rows will fill in one dip; then you move on to fill in the next dip. Close gaps as you come to them. Transfer 68 (82, 98, 110) Front sts to size US 9 needle. ROW 1 (WS): K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1. SHORT ROW 2 (RS): [P1, k1] twice, ssk (sssk, sssk, sssk), k8 (5, 4, 1), CDD, k6, t&s. SHORT ROW 3: P12 (10, 9, 6), t&s. SHORT ROW 4: K20 (18, 17, 14), CDD, k7, t&s. SHORT ROW 5: P12, t&s.

SHORT ROW 7:

K20, CDD, k7, t&s. P12, t&s. Repeat Short Rows 6 and 7 - (0, 1, 2) time(s). ALL SIZES

K20, CDD, k7 (5, 4, 3), t&s. P14 (12, 11, 10), t&s. SHORT ROW 10: Knit to last 6 (7, 7, 7) sts, k2tog (k3tog, k3tog, k3tog), [k1, p1] twice—60 (70, 84, 94) sts remain. ROW 11: K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 sts, closing remaining gaps as you come to them, k1, p1, k1. ROW 12: [P1, k1] twice, ssk (sssk, sssk, sssk), knit to last 6 (7, 7, 7) sts, k2tog (k3tog, k3tog, k3tog), [k1, p1] twice—58 (66, 80, 90) sts remain. SHORT ROW 8:

SHORT ROW 9:

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ROW 13:

K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 sts, k1,

SHORT ROW 3:

p1, k1.

22, 25), t&s.

[P1, k1] twice, ssk (ssk, sssk, sssk), knit to last 6 (6, 7, 7) sts, k2tog (k2tog, k3tog, k3tog), [k1, p1] twice—56 (64, 76, 86) sts remain after Row 14. ROW 15: Slip 1 knitwise, p1, k1, purl to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1. Repeat Rows 14 and 15 zero (2, 0, 1) time(s)—56 (60, 76, 82) sts remain.

SHORT ROW 4:

ROW 14:

S I Z E S - ( - , L /1 X , 2 X /3 X ) O N LY

Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, ssk, knit to last 6 sts, k2tog, [k1, p1] twice— - (-, 74, 80) sts remain. ROW 17: Repeat Row 15. Repeat Rows 16 and 17 - (-, 4, 4) times— - (-, 66, 72) sts remain. ROW 16:

ALL SIZES

Slip 1 purlwise, k1, p1, knit to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1. ROW 19: Repeat Row 15. Repeat Rows 18 and 19 until piece measures 5 (5 ½, 6, 6 ½)" from beginning of Front, ending with a WS row. ROW 18:

S H A P E L E F T F RO N T N E C K E D G E

Slip 1, k1, p1, k21 (23, 25, 28), t&s. SHORT ROW 2: Purl to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1. SHORT ROW 3: Slip 1, k1, p1, k18 (20, 22, 25), t&s. SHORT ROW 4: Purl to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1. SHORT ROW 5: Slip 1, k1, p1, k15 (17, 19, 22), t&s. SHORT ROW 6: Purl to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1. SHORT ROW 7: Slip 1, k1, p1, k12 (14, 16, 19), t&s. SHORT ROW 8: P8 (10, 12, 15), t&s. SHORT ROW 9: Knit to last 3 sts, closing gaps as you come to them, p1, k1, p1. SHORT ROW 1 (RS):

S H A P E R I G H T F RO N T N E C K E D G E

Slip 1, p1, k1, p21 (23, 25, 28), t&s. SHORT ROW 2: Knit to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1. SHORT ROW 1 (WS):

SHORT ROW 5:

Slip 1, p1, k1, p18 (20,

FINISHING

Knit to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1. Slip 1, p1, k1, p15 (17, 19,

Using Kitchener st (see page 122), graft 9 (10, 13, 15) sts for each shoulder—76 (80, 80, 84) sts remain.

F RO N T A N D B A C K S H O U L D E R S

22), t&s. SHORT ROW 6: SHORT ROW 7:

Knit to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1. Slip 1, p1, k1, p12 (14,

16, 19), t&s. K8 (10, 12, 15), t&s. Purl to last 3 sts, closing gaps as you come to them, k1, p1, k1. ROW 10: Slip 1, k1, p1, knit to last 3 sts, closing remaining gap as you come to it, p1, k1, p1. Cut yarn, leaving 18" tail. Slip Front sts to smallest circ needle; set aside. SHORT ROW 8: SHORT ROW 9:

BACK Transfer Back sts to size US 9 needle. Rejoin A for Two-Tone Version or MC for Solid Version; work as for Front until piece measures 6 ¼ (6 ¾, 7 ¼, 7 ¾)" from beginning of Back, ending with a WS row.

NECKBAND

With RS facing, using size US 9 circ needle, and beginning at left shoulder, join yarn and pm for beginning of rnd. RND 1: Purl across Front sts, pm, purl across Back sts. RND 2: Knit. RND 3: K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. RND 4: Purl. Repeat Rnds 1–3 once, then Rnds 1 and 2 once. Turn so WS is facing. Slip 1, BO all sts knitwise.

SHAPE RIGHT BACK NECK EDGE

Slip 1, k1, p1, k14 (16, 18, 21), t&s. SHORT ROW 2: Purl to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1. SHORT ROW 3: Slip 1, k1, p1, k10 (12, 14, 17), t&s. SHORT ROW 4: Purl to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1. SHORT ROW 5: Slip 1, k1, p1, knit to last 3 sts, closing gaps as you come to them, p1, k1, p1. SHORT ROW 1 (RS):

SHAPE LEFT BACK NECK EDGE

Slip 1, p1, k1, p14 (16, 18, 21), t&s. SHORT ROW 2: Knit to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1. SHORT ROW 3: Slip 1, p1, k1, p10 (12, 14, 17), t&s. SHORT ROW 4: Knit to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1. SHORT ROW 5: Slip 1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 sts, closing gaps as you come to them, k1, p1, k1. Cut yarn, leaving 18" tail. SHORT ROW 1 (WS):

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PROJE CTS

OPE N TO E S

pen Toes are worked back and forth, and utilize picked-up stitches (see Pick-Ups, page 163 ) to transform them from flat to three-dimensional. Picking up stitches, a technique often used in seamless garments, makes it possible to work the entire slipper with one continuous strand of yarn. \\\ The bands, worked evenly without increases or decreases, make this an easy slipper to modify with stitch patterns. Just substitute the stitch pattern of your choice for Garter stitch. If you wish to use a stitch pattern requiring more stitches than the pattern requires, you can decrease the number of bands to just one or two wider bands. If you work modified bands, work the length of the sole to accommodate the number of stitches that will be picked up along the side. S I ZE S

N OTION S

S H A P E TO P O F TO E

Medium (Large)

Stitch markers

F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

GAU GE

Note: Top of Toe is shaped using short rows (see page 148).

7 ½ (8 ¾)" Foot length from back of Heel 8 (9)" Foot circumference

26 sts and 48 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Garter stitch (knit every row)

*SIZE

L A RG E O N LY

SHORT ROWS 1 (RS) AND 2 (WS):

YA RN

Rowan Felted Tweed (50% merino wool / 25% alpaca / 25% viscose; 175 yards / 50 grams): 2 balls #172 Ancient N E E DL E S

One 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 1 (2.25 mm) One set of three double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 1 (2.25 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

TO P O F TO E Note: Long-Tail CO edge is counted as first Garter st ridge. Top of Toe is worked back and forth; Bottom of Toe is attached to Top as it is knit. Using circ needle and Long-Tail CO (see page 110), CO 26 (30) sts. Begin Garter st (knit every row); work even for 14 (16) rows.

K13,

w&t, knit to edge. B OT H S I Z E S SHORT ROWS 3 (RS) AND 4 (WS):

K12,

w&t, knit to edge. SHORT ROWS 5 AND 6:

K11, w&t,

knit to edge. SHORT ROWS 7 AND 8:

K10, w&t,

knit to edge. SHORT ROWS 9 AND 10:

K9, w&t,

knit to edge. 48

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PROJE CTS

OPEN TOES

Shaping Toe

SHORT ROWS 11 AND 12:

K8, w&t,

knit to edge. SHORT ROWS 13 AND 14:

K7, w&t,

knit to edge. SHORT ROWS 15 AND 16:

K6, w&t,

knit to edge. SHORT ROWS 17 AND 18:

K5, w&t,

Wyif, pick up and knit 1 st from edge of Top of Toe, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. Repeat Rows 1–4 eight (9) times— 28 (32) sts. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until Bottom of Toe is same length as Top of Toe.

ROW 4:

knit to edge. SHORT ROWS 19 AND 20:

K4, w&t,

knit to edge. SHORT ROWS 21 AND 22:

K3, w&t,

knit to edge.

1

SHORT ROWS 23 AND 24:

K2, w&t,

knit to edge.*

MAKE INSTEP BAND

Knit 1 row. Repeat from * to * once. Note: When you work this section for the second time, you will begin it on a WS row instead of a RS row. NEXT ROW (WS): K2, [k1, pso] 9 (11) times, [k2tog, pso] twice, [k1, pso] 11 (13) times—1 st remains each side (photo 1). 2

Begin Instep Band

3

50

FO OT **Work even for 24 (26) rows, ending with a WS row. Leave sts on circ needle; set aside.

BOTTO M O F TO E NEXT ROW (RS): Slip 1, AO-f 8 (10) sts, k1-tbl—10 (12) sts (photo 2). NEXT ROW: Slip 1, k7 (9), w&t. NEXT 2 ROWS: K6 (8), w&t, knit to end. Notes: 1) As Bottom of Toe is worked, one st at edge of every ridge on Top of Toe is picked up and knit, attaching Bottom to Top. 2) For every 4 rows worked, 2 sts are increased. ROW 1 (RS): Wyib, pick up and knit 1 st from edge of Top of Toe, knit to end— 11 (13) sts. ROW 2: Wyif, pick up and knit 1 st from edge of Top of Toe, knit to end—12 (14) sts. ROW 3: Wyib, pick up and knit 1 st from edge of Top of Toe, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Note: Bands are worked back and forth with dpns. Sts are picked up along right side of Foot, knit to indicated length, then attached to opposite side of Foot. When Band is first attached, it will be on the underside of the Foot; it will then be turned RS out before continuing. With WS of Foot facing, using dpn, pick up 12 (13) sts from right side of Foot (photo 3) (see Pick-Ups along a Garter Edge, page 164). Working back and forth on these sts only, work in Garter st for 3 ¾ (4 ¼)", ending with a WS row (with yarn at end of needle closest to Toe). With empty dpn, pick up 12 (13) sts along left side of Foot. Holding both dpns with RSs together (with Band on underside of Foot), BO all Band sts using Three-Needle BO (see page 122). Transfer remaining st onto circ needle. Flip band RS out and push ball of yarn through Band loop.** NEXT ROW (WS): Working across circ needle, k2tog, k27 (31). Repeat from ** to ** once. NEXT ROW (WS): Working across circ needle, k2tog, k7 (8), pm, k12 (14), pm, k8 (9). ROW 1 (RS): Knit to 1 st before first marker, k1-f/b, sm, k12 (14), sm, k1-f/b, knit to end—30 (34) sts.

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Knit. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eleven (12) times, removing markers on final row—52 (58) sts. Leave sts on circ needle; set aside. Make final Instep Band—53 (59) sts.

ROW 2:

H EEL Note: Heel is shaped using short rows. SHORT ROW 1 (WS): K2tog, k23 (26), k2tog, pm, k23 (25), w&t. SHORT ROW 2 (RS): Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k23 (25), w&t. S I Z E L A RG E O N LY

Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k23, w&t.

SHORT ROWS 3 AND 4:

B OT H S I Z E S

Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k21, w&t. SHORT ROWS 7 AND 8: Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k19, w&t. SHORT ROWS 9 AND 10: Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k17, w&t. SHORT ROWS 11 AND 12: Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k15, w&t. SHORT ROWS 13 AND 14: Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k13, w&t. SHORT ROWS 15 AND 16: Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k11, w&t. SHORT ROWS 17 AND 18: Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k9, w&t. SHORT ROWS 19 AND 20: Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k7, w&t. SHORT ROWS 21 AND 22: Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k5, w&t. SHORT ROWS 23 AND 24: Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k3, w&t. SHORT ROWS 25 AND 26: Knit to 2 sts past marker, w&t. SHORT ROWS 27 AND 28: Knit to 4 sts past marker, w&t. SHORT ROWS 29 AND 30: Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, knit to 6 sts past marker, w&t. SHORT ROWS 5 AND 6:

SHORT ROWS 31 AND 32:

Knit to 7 sts

past marker, w&t. SHORT ROWS 33 AND 34: Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, knit to 9 sts past marker, w&t—26 (30) sts remain. SHORT ROWS 35 AND 36: Knit to 11 sts past marker, w&t.

S I Z E M E D I U M O N LY

Knit to 12 sts past marker (to last st), w&t, knit to end, removing marker.

SHORT ROWS 37 AND 38:

S I Z E L A RG E O N LY SHORT ROWS 39 AND 40:

Knit to 13 sts

past marker, w&t. SHORT ROWS 41 AND 42: Knit to 15 sts past marker, w&t, knit to end, removing marker.

With WS facing, wyib, pick up and knit 1 st next to Band, [k1, pso] to end, pick up and knit 1 st next to Band, pso. Fasten off.

BO ROW:

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T I L DA H AT

nspiration can come from anywhere—even the hairstyle of a celebrity in this case. Since the finished hat also reminded me of a tilde, the curved notation occasionally used above the letter n in the Spanish language, I briefly considered changing the name of the project. But no matter what the inspiration or the name, I love the simple, curved sculptural line of the hat. F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

17" circumference YA RN

The Fibre Company Savannah (50% wool / 20% cotton / 15% linen / 15% soya; 160 yards / 50 grams): 2 hanks Graphite N E E DL E S

One 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 9 (5.5 mm) One set of six double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 9 (5.5 mm) One double-pointed needle (dpn) size US 4 (3.5 mm), for BO

HAT Using circ needle, Long-Tail CO (see page 110), and 2 strands of yarn held together, CO 89 sts. SET-UP RND: Holding end with attached yarn in your right hand, slip 1 st from left-hand needle to right-hand needle, pm for beginning of rnd, [k1, p1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2tog—88 sts remain. S H A P E H AT

Note: Hat is shaped using 5 sections of short rows (see page 148).

GAU G E

22 sts and 22 rows = 4" (10 cm) in K1, P1 Rib, using larger needle and 2 strands of yarn held together, unstretched

52

S H O RT ROW S E C T I O N 1

[K1, p1] 42 times (4 sts before marker), w&t. SHORT ROW 2 (WS): [K1, p1] 38 times (8 sts before marker), w&t. SHORT ROW 1 (RS):

Note: For Short Rows 3–19, each w&t is worked 4 sts before previous w&t on same side of Hat. SHORT ROW 3: [K1, p1] 36 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 4: [K1, p1] 34 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 5: [K1, p1] 32 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 6: [K1, p1] 30 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 7: [K1, p1] 28 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 8: [K1, p1] 26 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 9: [K1, p1] 24 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 10: [K1, p1] 22 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 11: [K1, p1] 20 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 12: [K1, p1] 18 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 13: [K1, p1] 16 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 14: [K1, p1] 14 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 15: [K1, p1] 12 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 16: [K1, p1] 10 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 17: [K1, p1] 8 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 18: [K1, p1] 6 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 19: [K1, p1] 4 times, w&t.

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T I L D A H AT

Note: For Short Rows 3–17, each w&t is worked 4 sts before previous w&t on same side of Hat. SHORT ROW 3: [K1, p1] 34 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 4: [K1, p1] 32 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 5: [K1, p1] 30 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 6: [K1, p1] 28 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 7: [K1, p1] 26 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 8: [K1, p1] 24 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 9: [K1, p1] 22 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 10: [K1, p1] 20 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 11: [K1, p1] 18 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 12: [K1, p1] 16 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 13: [K1, p1] 14 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 14: [K1, p1] 12 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 15: [K1, p1] 10 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 16: [K1, p1] 8 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 17: [K1, p1] 6 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 18: [K1, p1] 21 times (8 sts before marker), working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them, w&t. SHORT ROW 19: [K1, p1] 40 times (to marker), working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them. S H O RT ROW S E C T I O N 3

[K1, p1] 40 times (8 sts before marker), working wrap together with wrapped st on 8th st, w&t. SHORT ROW 2 (WS): [K1, p1] 34 times (12 sts before marker), w&t. SHORT ROW 1 (RS):

[K1, p1] 22 times, working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them (4 sts before marker), w&t. SHORT ROW 21: [K1, p1] 42 times (to marker), working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them. SHORT ROW 20:

S H O RT ROW S E C T I O N 2

[K1, p1] 41 times (6 sts before marker), working wrap together with wrapped st on 4th st, w&t. SHORT ROW 2 (WS): [K1, p1] 36 times (10 sts before marker), w&t. SHORT ROW 1 (RS):

54

Note: For Short Rows 3–17, each w&t is worked 4 sts before previous w&t on same side of Hat. SHORT ROW 3: [K1, p1] 32 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 4: [K1, p1] 30 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 5: [K1, p1] 28 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 6: [K1, p1] 26 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 7: [K1, p1] 24 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 8: [K1, p1] 22 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 9: [K1, p1] 20 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 10: [K1, p1] 18 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 11: [K1, p1] 16 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 12: [K1, p1] 14 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 13: [K1, p1] 12 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 14: [K1, p1] 10 times, w&t.

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[K1, p1] 8 times, w&t. [K1, p1] 6 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 17: [K1, p1] 4 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 18: [K1, p1] 20 times (8 sts before marker), working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them, w&t. SHORT ROW 19: [K1, p1] 40 times (to marker), working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them.

[K1, p1] 22 times, w&t. [K1, p1] 20 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 9: [K1, p1] 18 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 10: [K1, p1] 16 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 11: [K1, p1] 14 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 12: [K1, p1] 12 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 13: [K1, p1] 10 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 14: [K1, p1] 8 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 15: [K1, p1] 6 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 16: [K1, p1] 20 times (10 sts before marker), working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them, w&t. SHORT ROW 17: [K1, p1] 39 times (to marker), working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them.

SHORT ROW 15:

SHORT ROW 7:

SHORT ROW 16:

SHORT ROW 8:

S H O RT ROW S E C T I O N 4

[K1, p1] 39 times (10 sts before marker), working wrap together with wrapped st on 8th st, w&t. SHORT ROW 2 (WS): [K1, p1] 32 times (14 sts before marker), w&t. SHORT ROW 1 (RS):

Note: For Short Rows 3–15, each w&t is worked 4 sts before previous w&t on same side of Hat. SHORT ROW 3: [K1, p1] 30 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 4: [K1, p1] 28 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 5: [K1, p1] 26 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 6: [K1, p1] 24 times, w&t.

Shape Back of Hat

1

S H O RT ROW S E C T I O N 5

[K1, p1] 38 times (12 sts before marker), working wrap together with wrapped st on 10th st, w&t. SHORT ROW 2 (WS): [K1, p1] 30 times (16 sts before marker), w&t. SHORT ROW 1 (RS):

Note: For Short Rows 3–6, each w&t is worked 4 sts before previous w&t on same side of Hat. SHORT ROW 3: [K1, p1] 28 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 4: [K1, p1] 26 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 5: [K1, p1] 24 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 6: [K1, p1] 28 times (12 sts before marker), working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them, w&t. SHORT ROW 7: [K1, p1] 35 times (6 sts before marker), working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them. S H A P E B A C K O F H AT

Change to dpns, as follows: With Needle 1, [k1, p1] 6 times, removing marker when you come to it; with Needle 2, [k1, p1] 8 times, working wrap together with wrapped st on 6th st; with Needle 3, [k1, p1] 8 times; with Needle 4, [k1, p1] 6 times; with Needle 5, [k1, p1] 8 times; with Needle 6, [k1, p1] 8 times.

2

Hold Needle 1 (center bottom needle) and Needle 4 (center top needle) with WSs together (photo 1); using circ needle as working needle, [k2tog-2n, p2tog-2n] 6 times (photo 2)—76 sts remain (12 sts on circ needle; 16 sts each on Needles 2, 3, 5, and 6). JOIN NEEDLES 1 AND 4:

Continuing in Rib Pattern as established, using an empty dpn when working across each dpn and the opposite end of the circ needle when working across circ needle, work across Needle 2, Needle 3, circ needle, Needle 5, Needle 6, circ needle, Needle 2, Needle 3, circ needle, then Needle 5. Hold Needles 5 and 6 with WSs together and, using smaller needle, k2tog-2n, p2tog-2n, pso, [k2tog-2n, pso, p2tog-2n, pso] 7 times; working across circ needle, [k1, pso, p1, pso] 6 times. Hold Needles 2 and 3 with WSs together and [k2tog-2n, pso, p2tog-2n, pso] 8 times.

BO RND:

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PROJE CTS

H I G H PROF I L E TO P

igh Profile is a flattering empire-style garment, worked from the top of its funnel neck down. Except for the upper section at the armholes, this top is worked seamlessly in the round. \\\ The stitch pattern below the bust was inspired by the recent wave of laser-cut fabrics, for a more contemporary, lacelike effect. For instructions to work this stitch back and forth for a swatch, or to use it for other projects of your own design, see Laser Cables (page 158 ). S I ZE S

GAU GE

SHAPE COLLAR

X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large) To fit bust sizes 28-30 (32–34, 36–38, 40–42, 44-46)"

14 sts and 21 rows = 4" (10 cm) Stockinette stitch (St st)

INCREASE RND:

N OTE F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

Top is worked from the top down.

31 ½ (36 ½, 40 ½, 45 ¾, 49 ¾)" bust YA RN

Quince & Co. Osprey (100% wool; 170 yards / 100 grams): 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) hanks Storm N E E DL E S

Two 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needles size US 9 (5.5 mm) One double-pointed needle (dpn) size US 9 (5.5 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. N OTI O N S

Two stitch markers in different colors; waste yarn

56

CO LLAR CO 65 (67, 73, 75, 81) sts. Holding needle with working yarn in your left hand, and being careful not to twist sts, slip 1 st to right-hand needle, pm for beginning of round. NEXT RND: K39 (40, 43, 44, 47), pm for left shoulder, knit to last st, slip last st on right-hand needle back to left-hand needle, k2tog—64 (66, 72, 74, 80) sts remain; 39 (40, 43, 44, 47) sts for Front, 25 (26, 29, 30, 33) sts for Back. Knit 3 rnds.

Increase 2 sts this rnd, then every 4 rnds 5 times, as follows: Knit to marker, sm, k1, LLI, knit to last st, RLI, k1—76 (78, 84, 86, 92) sts; 39 (40, 43, 44, 47) sts for Front, 37 (38, 41, 42, 45) sts for Back. Slip Front sts to second circ needle and set aside.

BACK Using circ needle, crochet hook, waste yarn, and Crochet Provisional CO (see page 119), CO 2 separate sets of 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts for shoulders. With RS of Back facing, using working yarn, knit across 1 set of CO sts—43 (43, 45, 51, 55) sts.

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HIGH PROFILE TOP

Slip 1 purlwise, k1, p1, k1, purl to end, purl across second set of CO sts—49 (52, 57, 60, 65) sts. Work even, working rib at armholes as established, slipping first st of each row until armhole measures 6 ½ (6, 6, 5 ½, 5 ½)", ending with a WS row.

NEXT ROW (WS):

SHAPE ARMHOLES

Increase 1 st each side this row, then every other row 2 (5, 6, 9, 10) times, as follows: Slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] twice, LLI, knit to last 5 sts, RLI, k1, [p1, k1] twice—55 (64, 71, 80, 87) sts. Leave sts on needle; cut yarn and set aside.

INCREASE ROW (RS):

FRO N T Slip Provisional CO sts for left shoulder onto dpn. With RS facing, rejoin yarn to left-hand end of Front sts on circ needle, work across dpn as follows: K2 (3, 4, 5, 6) [p1, k1] twice—45 (47, 51, 53, 57) sts. Slip remaining Provisional CO sts onto dpn. NEXT ROW (WS): Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, purl to end of circ needle, work across dpn as follows: P2 (3, 4, 5, 6), [k1, p1] twice—51 (54, 59, 62, 67) sts. S H A P E L E F T F RO N T N E C K

Note: Front Neck is shaped using Japanese Short Rows (see page 149) SHORT ROW 1 (RS): Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k17 (19, 21, 23, 25), t&s. SHORT ROWS 2, 4, AND 6: Work to edge. SHORT ROW 3: Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k13 (15, 16, 18, 19), t&s. SHORT ROW 5: Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k9 (11, 11, 13, 13), t&s. SHORT ROW 7: Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k5 (7, 6, 8, 7), t&s. SHORT ROW 8: Work to edge. ROW 9: Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, knit to last 4 sts, closing gaps as you come to them, [p1, k1] twice.

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HIGH PROFILE TOP

S H A P E R I G H T F RO N T N E C K

B E G I N C A B L E PAT T E R N

Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p17 (19, 21, 23, 25), t&s. SHORT ROWS 2, 4, AND 6: Work to edge. SHORT ROW 3: Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p13 (15, 16, 18, 19), t&s. SHORT ROW 5: Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p9 (11, 11, 13, 13), t&s. SHORT ROW 7: Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p5 (7, 6, 8, 7), t&s. SHORT ROW 8: Work to edge. ROW 9: Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, purl to last 4 sts, closing gaps as you come to them, [k1, p1] twice. Work even until armhole measures 6 ½ (6, 6, 5 ½, 5 ½)", ending with a WS row. Shape armholes as for Back, ending 1 st before end of last row; pm for beginning of rnd and left side—57 (66, 73, 82, 89) sts.

Note: Rnds 1 and 5 are divided into 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) separate units. You will work each unit separately before moving on to the next unit. For both rnds, the first unit begins the pattern; the second unit is repeated to the end on Rnd 1, and to the last 6 sts on Rnd 5, then the Final Unit completes Rnd 5. RND 1: UNIT 1: K9, turn; slip 1, p8, turn; Slip 1, k8, turn; slip 1, p8, turn; Slip 1, k2, slip 3 sts to dpn and hold to front, k3, k3 from dpn, turn; slip 1, p8, turn; Slip 1, k8, do not turn; UNIT 2: AO-h 4 sts, [k9, turn; slip 1, p7, p2tog, w&t] twice; K3, slip 3 sts to dpn and hold to front, k3, k3 from dpn, turn; slip 1, p7, p2tog, w&t; K9, do not turn; repeat Unit 2 to end of rnd. RND 2: [K8, ssk] to last 9 sts, k9. RNDS 3 AND 4: Knit. RND 5: UNIT 1: K12, turn; slip 1, p8, turn; Slip 1, k2, slip 3 sts to dpn and hold to back, k3, k3 from dpn, turn; slip 1, p8, turn; Slip 1, k8, turn; slip 1, p8, turn; Slip 1, k8, do not turn; UNIT 2: AO-h 4 sts, k9, turn; slip 1, p7, p2tog, w&t; K3, slip 3 sts to dpn and hold to back, k3, k3 from dpn, turn; slip 1, p7, p2tog, w&t; K9, turn; slip 1, p7, p2tog, w&t; K9, do not turn; repeat Unit 2 to last 6 sts; FINAL UNIT: AO-h 4 sts, k6, remove marker, k3, turn; slip 1, p7, p2tog, w&t; K3, slip 3 sts to dpn and hold to back, k3, k3 from dpn, turn; slip 1, p7, p2tog, w&t; K9, turn; slip 1, p7, p2tog, w&t; K6, pm. RND 6: K3, [k8, ssk] to last 6 sts, k6. RNDS 7 AND 8: Knit. Repeat Rnds 1–8 twice. Knit 1 rnd, removing marker, w&t; BO all sts knitwise.

SHORT ROW 1 (WS):

B O DY Ssk (last st from Front together with first st from Back), work across Back to last st, pm for right side, k2tog (last st from Back together with first st from Front), work to end—110 (128, 142, 160, 174) sts remain. Join for working in the rnd; work even for 1 rnd. Knit 3 rnds, discontinuing ribbing at underarm.

JOIN FRONT AND BACK (RS):

S H A P E B O DY

Increase 4 sts this rnd, then every 4 rnds 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) times, as follows: [K3, LLI, knit to 3 sts before marker, RLI, k3] twice, removing right side marker on last rnd—126 (144, 162, 180, 198) sts.

INCREASE RND:

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3-D H EADBAN DS

f you love texture like I do, then you’ll appreciate these two quick projects that exemplify three-dimensional knitting. And for knitters who live where the cold winds blow, the chunky versions perform double-duty as dense, snug earmuffs. F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

FRING E HE ADBAND

2" wide by 29" long

STRAP

YA RN

CO 11 sts.

Quince & Co. Tern (75% American wool / 25% silk; 221 yards / 50 grams): Fringe Headband: 1 hank #143 Sea Grass Wave Headband: 1 hank #148 Back Bay N E E DL E S

Fringe Headband: One pair doublepointed needles (dpn) size US 3 (3.25 mm) Wave Headband: One set of three doublepointed needles (dpn) size US 3 (3.25 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. N OTI O N S

Wave Headband: Cable Needle (cn); stitch markers in 2 different colors GAU G E

32 sts and 34 rows = 4" (10 cm) K1, P1 Rib, unstretched N OTE

Yarn and needle requirements for both of the winter variations are included at the beginning of those pattern instructions.

ROW 1 (RS): Slip 1 purlwise, [k1, p1] 5 times. ROW 2: Slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] 5 times. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 7" from the beginning, ending with Row 2.

FRINGE SECTION

Slip 1 purlwise, *using Yarnover CO (see page 112), CO 4 sts onto left-hand needle, leaving last st from CO on right-hand needle, [k1, pso] 4 times, pull Fringe to front from between last 2 sts on right-hand needle, p2tog; repeat from * 4 times, working p2tog-tbl instead of p2tog on final repeat. ROW 2: Slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1-hw] 4 times, p1, k1. ROWS 3 AND 5: Slip 1 purlwise, [k1, p1] 5 times.

ROWS 4 AND 6: Slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] 5 times. Repeat Rows 1–6 nineteen times, or until piece measures 23" from the beginning, ending with a WS row.

STRAP

Repeat Rows 5 and 6 until piece measures 29 ½" from the beginning. BO all sts in rib, slipping first st and working last 2 sts together.

ROW 1 (RS):

WINT E R VARIAT IO N O F FRING E D HE ADBAN D I worked a winter variation of the Fringe Headband using one hank of Quince & Co. Puffin Bird’s Egg and one set of 5 size US 11 (8 mm) double-pointed needles. I eliminated the Straps and worked just the Fringe Section.

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3D HEADBANDS

[slipping 1 st to front needle and 1 st to back needle] to end. Connect ends using Divided Rib Graft (see page 123). WAVE H E ADBAND STRAP

CO 10 sts. NEXT ROW: Slip 1 knitwise, p1, [k1, p1] 4 times. Work even until piece measures 6" from the beginning.

SHAPE BEGINNING OF WAV E S E C T I O N

Slip 1, M1-L, [p1, k1] 4 times, M1-p-R, p1—12 sts. ROW 2: Slip 1, M1-p-L , [k1, p1] 5 times, M1-R, p1—14 sts. ROWS 3, 4, 7, AND 8: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end. ROW 5: Slip 1, M1-L, p1, [k1, p1] 6 times—15 sts. ROW 6: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 6 times, M1-R, p1—16 sts. ROW 9: Slip 1, M1-L, p1, [k1, p1] 7 times— 17 sts. ROW 10: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 7 times, M1-R, p1—18 sts. ROW 1 (RS):

WAV E S E C T I O N

Above is my winter variation of the Fringe Headband shown at right.

Using Turkish CO (see page 118), CO 22 sts (11 loops). Leave sts on lower needle for finishing. NEXT ROW (WS): Slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] 5 times. Work Rows 1–4 from Fringe Section until piece measures 18" from the beginning, ending with Row 4. CONNECT ENDS

Divide sts onto 2 needles by slipping knit sts to front needle and purl sts to back needle (see Divide Stitches, page 137). Divide CO sts onto 2 needles by 62

Note: Of the 18 sts, 6 are Wave sts and 12 are Main Headband sts. For each row worked, Wave sts are worked twice, while Main sts are worked once. On Row 1, Wave sts begin at right-hand end of Main sts; they travel 2 sts to the left across front of each following RS row, until they reach left edge of Main sts on Row 11. Each WS row begins with Wave sts and a portion of Main sts on 1 needle, and remaining Main sts on a second needle; the row ends with all Main sts on 1 needle and Wave sts on a second needle. The end of a needle may not mean the end of a row; you may be at outer edge of Wave, partway through row.

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PROJE CTS

3D HEADBANDS

Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice (these 6 sts are beginning of Wave), slip next 2 sts to cn and hold to back, [k1, p1] 5 times. Place marker on first st of row to indicate outer edge of Wave; place different color marker on last st of row to indicate left edge of Main sts. ROW 2: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 7 times (to outer edge of Wave sts), turn; using empty needle and working Wave sts, slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice (to inner edge of Wave sts), turn and hold cn in left hand (being careful not to twist cn) and previous needle in right hand, allowing Wave needle to hang to back of work; using previous needle and working sts from cn, k1, p1. Note: Needle with 6 sts is Wave needle; 12 Main sts are on second needle. ROW 3: Slip 1, p1, k1, p1; working Wave sts, [k1, p1] 3 times (to outer edge of Wave sts), turn; with empty needle and working Wave sts, slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice (to inner edge of Wave sts); continuing with working needle and working sts on next needle, [k1, p1] 4 times (to left edge of Main sts). ROW 4: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 6 times (to outer edge of Wave sts), turn; with empty needle and working Wave sts, slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice (to inner edge of Wave sts), turn; with previous needle, [k1, p1] twice from next needle. Main sts are now on 1 needle and Wave sts are on second needle. ROW 5: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice; working Wave sts, [k1, p1] 3 times (to outer edge of Wave sts), turn; with empty needle and working Wave sts, slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice (to inner edge of Wave sts), turn; continuing with working needle, [k1, p1] 3 times from next needle (to left edge of Main sts). ROW 6: With empty needle, slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times (to outer edge of Wave sts), turn; with empty needle and working Wave sts, slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice ROW 1 (RS):

64

(to inner edge of Wave sts), turn; with previous needle, [k1, p1] 3 times from next needle. Main sts are now on 1 needle and Wave sts are on second needle. ROW 7: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times; working Wave sts, [k1, p1] 3 times (to outer edge of Wave sts), turn; with empty needle and working Wave sts, slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice (to inner edge of Wave sts); with working needle, [k1, p1] twice from next needle (to left edge of Main sts). ROW 8: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 4 times (to outer edge of Wave sts), turn; with empty needle and working Wave sts, slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice (to inner edge of Wave sts), turn; with previous needle, [k1, p1] 4 times from next needle. Main sts are now on 1 needle and Wave sts are on second needle. ROW 9: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 4 times; working Wave sts, [k1, p1] 3 times (to outer edge of Wave sts), turn; with empty nee-

dle and working Wave sts, slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice (to inner edge of Wave sts); with working needle, k1, p1 from next needle (to left edge of Main sts). ROW 10: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times (to outer edge of Wave sts), turn; with empty needle and working Wave sts, slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice (to inner edge of Wave sts), turn; with previous needle, [k1, p1] 5 times from next needle. Main sts are now on 1 needle and Wave sts are on second needle. ROW 11: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times; working sts from Wave needle, [k1, p1] 3 times. Wave has completed its move from right-hand edge to left-hand edge of Main Headband, and all sts are on 1 needle. ROWS 12–18: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 8 times. Repeat Rows 1–18 five times, then Rows 1–6 once.

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S H A P E E N D O F WAV E S E C T I O N

Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, k2tog-2n (1 st from Wave needle together with 1 st from next needle), p2tog-2n (1 st from Wave needle together with 1 st from next needle); working sts from Wave needle, [k1, p1] twice (to outer edge of Wave sts), turn; with empty needle, slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice (to inner edge of Wave sts); continuing with Wave needle, k1, p1 from next needle (to left edge of Main sts)—16 sts remain. ROW 2: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times (to outer edge of Wave sts), turn; with empty needle, slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice (to inner edge of Wave sts), turn; with previous needle, [k1, p1] 4 times from next needle. Main sts are now on 1 needle and Wave sts are on second needle. ROW 3: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, k2tog-2n (1 st from Wave needle together with 1 st from next needle), p2tog-2n (1 st from Wave needle together with 1 st from next needle); working sts from Wave needle, [k1, p1] twice—14 sts remain. Wave has completed its move from right-hand edge to left-hand edge of Main Headband, and all sts are on 1 needle. ROW 4: Slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] twice—13 sts remain. ROW 5: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, ssp, [k1, p1] 3 times—12 sts remain. ROW 6: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] twice—11 sts remain. ROW 7: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, ssp, [k1, p1] twice—10 sts remain. ROW 1 (RS):

STRAP

Slip 1 knitwise, p1, [k1, p1] 4 times. Work even until piece measures 29" from the beginning. BO all sts in Rib, slipping first st and working last 2 sts together. NEXT ROW:

Above is the winter variation of the Wave Headband shown at left.

WINT E R VARIAT IO N O F WAVE HE ADBAND I worked a winter variation of the Wave Headband using one hank of Quince & Co. Puffin Moss and one set of 5 size US 11 (8 mm) double-pointed needles. I eliminated the Straps and worked just the Wave Section. Using Turkish CO (see page 118), CO 11. Leave sts on lower needle for finishing. ROWS 1–6: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end. Work Rows 1–16 from Wave Section 4 times.

CONNECT ENDS

Divide sts onto 2 needles (see Divide Stitches, page 137) by slipping knit sts to front needle and purl sts to back needle. Divide CO sts onto 2 needles by [slipping 1 st to front needle and 1 st to back needle] across needle. Connect ends using Divided Rib Graft (see page 123).

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PROJE CTS

LITTLE BIAS PONCHO

his short poncho starts at the bottom front edge; bias knitting establishes the angle of the cast-on edge and the slope of the pockets, shoulders, and arms. \\\ Biased fabric is created by sequential decreasing on one side and increasing on the opposite side. The decreased edge drops and the increased edge rises. This dropping and rising, created by stacked increases and decreases, is also what gives ripple patterns their undulating characteristic. If you work a swatch of the Ripple Stitch from Ripple Vest (page 44), you’ll see that the columns of grouped decreases create the valleys and the columns of grouped increases create hills. [K1, p1] to end. Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end.

F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

GAU GE

ROW 1 (WS):

54" chest

11 sts and 16 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st)

ROWS 2–4:

YA RN

Quince & Co. Puffin (100% merino wool; 100 yards / 100 grams): 6 hanks Bird’s Egg (MC); 1 hank Honey (A) N E E DL E S

Two 29" (70 cm) long or longer circular (circ) needles size US 11 (8 mm) One set of three 8" (20 cm) long doublepointed needles (dpn) size US 11 (8 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. N OTI O N S

Waste yarn; stitch holders

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S H A P E R I G H T F RO N T

Except for the slipped stitches worked in the short rows, when slipping stitches, slip knit stitches knitwise and purl stitches purlwise.

Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, purl to last 6 sts, [k1, p1] 3 times. ROW 6: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k3, M1-L, knit to last 9 sts, k2tog, k2, [p1, k1] twice, p1. ROW 8: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, knit to last 5 sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1. Repeat Rows 5–8 five times, then Row 5 once.

To minimize the appearance of short rows in the Stockinette stitch fabric, Japanese-style short rows are used (see Japanese Short Rows, page 149).

RIG HT FRO NT Using circ needle, MC, and Tubular CO (see page 114), CO 40 sts, beginning with a knit st. Note: Unless otherwise indicated, when slipping sts, slip knit sts knitwise and purl sts purlwise.

ROWS 5 AND 7 (WS):

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PROJE CTS

LITTLE BIAS PONCHO

Making Pocket with Waste Yarn

Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k3, M1-L, k5, using waste yarn, k15, slip these 15 sts back to left-hand needle, change to working yarn, knit to last 9 sts, k2tog, k2, [p1, k1] twice, p1 (photo 1). Repeat Rows 7 and 8 once, Rows 5–8 once, then Rows 5–7 once. POCKET SET-UP ROW (RS):

Note: The following 2 rows create 5 sts that are placed on hold to be used later to join Back and Front. SIDE ATTACHMENT SET-UP ROW (RS): Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, knit to last 6 sts, [k1-f/b, p1-f/b] twice, k1-f/b, p1—45 sts. NEXT ROW: Holding st holder in front, divide next 10 sts as follows: Slip 1 to main needle, slip 1 to st holder, [p1, slip 1 to st holder, k1, slip 1 to st holder] twice, purl to last 6 sts, [k1, p1] 3 times— 40 sts remain. Work Pocket (see below).

1

2

SHAPE ARMHOLE AND NECK EDGE

Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, k3, M1-L, knit to last 5 sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1—41 sts. ROWS 2 AND 4: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, purl to last 6 sts, [k1, p1] 3 times. ROW 3: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, knit to last 5 sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1. ROW 5: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, k3, M1-L, knit to last 8 sts, M1-R, k3, [p1, k1] twice, p1—43 sts. ROW 6: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, purl to last 6 sts, [k1, p1] 3 times. ROW 7: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, knit to last 5 sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1. ROW 8: Repeat Row 6. Repeat Rows 5–8 six times—55 sts. ROW 1 (RS):

3

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SHAPE SHOULDER

Note: Shoulder is shaped using Japanese Short Rows (see page 149). Turns are worked on RS rows and gaps are closed on WS rows. ROW 1 (RS): Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, k3, M1-L, k34, t&s—56 sts. ROWS 2, 4, 6, 8, AND 10: Purl to last 6 sts, [k1, p1] 3 times. ROW 3: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, k30, t&s. ROW 5: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, k3, M1-L, k19, t&s—57 sts. ROW 7: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, k3, M1-L, k12, t&s—58 sts. ROW 9: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, k3, M1-L, k5, t&s—59 sts. ROW 11: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, knit to last 5 sts, closing gaps, [p1, k1] twice, p1. ROW 12: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, purl to last 6 sts, [k1, p1] 3 times. ROW 13: Using dpn, [k1, p1] 3 times, k3, set aside for Neckband; leave remaining 50 sts on circ needle. Cut yarn, leaving 26" tail. P O CKE T Note: Pocket is worked using Tubular Knitting (see page 161), which works sts back and forth to create an open tube. Two passes of tubular knitting increase length of Pocket by 1 row. With RS facing you, insert 1 dpn into each of the sts below waste yarn; insert a second dpn into each of the sts above waste yarn (photo 2). Remove waste yarn—15 sts on each needle (photo 3). Using A, knit across sts on lower needle, then turn to work sts on upper needle. Holding both needles with WSs together, [slip 1 purlwise wyif from back needle, yb, k1 from front needle] to end of both needles. All sts are now on 1 needle. TUBULAR ROW: *[Yf, slip 1 st purlwise, yb, k1] to end of row, turn; repeat from * to end for second pass. Work even until Pocket measures 6–6 ½", or to no less than 1 ½" above bottom edge of Front,

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ending with second pass of Tubular Row. Cut yarn, leaving a 32" tail. Divide sts onto 2 needles (see Divide Stitches, page 137) by slipping knit sts to front needle and purl sts to back needle. Graft sts together using Kitchener st (see page 122). L EFT FR ONT Using second circ needle, MC, and Tubular CO, CO 40 sts, beginning with a purl st. Note: Unless otherwise indicated, when slipping sts, slip knit sts knitwise and purl sts purlwise. ROW 1 (WS): [P1, k1] to end. ROWS 2–4: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] to end. S H A P E L E F T F RO N T

Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] twice, purl to last 5 sts, [k1, p1] twice, k1. ROW 6: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, k2, ssk, knit to last 9 sts, M1-R, k3, [p1, k1] 3 times. ROW 8: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, knit to last 6 sts, [p1, k1] 3 times. Repeat Rows 5–8 five times, then Row 5 once. ROWS 5 AND 7:

Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, k2, ssk, k2, using waste yarn, k15, slip these 15 sts back to left-hand needle, change to working yarn, knit to last 9 sts, M1-R, k3, [p1, k1] 3 times. Repeat Rows 7 and 8 once, Rows 5–8 once, then Rows 5–7 once.

POCKET SET-UP ROW (RS):

Slip 1, [k1-f/b, p1-f/b] twice, k1-f/b, knit to last 6 sts, [p1, k1] 3 times—45 sts. NEXT ROW: Slip 1, k1, [p1, k1] twice, purl to last 10 sts; holding st holder in front, divide next 10 sts as follows: [Slip 1 to st holder, p1, slip 1 to st holder, k1] twice, slip 1 to st holder, p1, k1—40 sts remain. Work Pocket (see above). SIDE ATTACHMENT SET-UP ROW (RS):

SHAPE ARMHOLE AND NECK

Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, knit to last 9 sts, M1-R, k3, [p1, k1] 3 times—41 sts. ROWS 2 AND 4: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, purl to last 5 sts, [k1, p1] twice, k1. ROW 3: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, knit to last 6 sts, [p1, k1] 3 times. ROW 5: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, k3, M1-L, knit to last 9 sts, M1-R, k3, [p1, k1] 3 times—43 sts. ROW 6: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, purl to last 5 sts, [k1, p1] twice, k1. ROW 7: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, knit to last 6 sts, [p1, k1] 3 times. ROW 8: Repeat Row 6. Repeat Rows 5–8 six times—55 sts. ROW 1 (RS):

SHAPE SHOULDER

Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, knit to last 9 sts, M1-R, k3, [p1, k1] 3 times—56 sts. ROW 2: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p38, t&s. ROW 3: Knit to last 6 sts, [p1, k1] 3 times. ROW 4: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p30, t&s. ROWS 5, 7, AND 9: Knit to last 9 sts, M1-R, k3, [p1, k1] 3 times—59 sts after Row 9. ROW 1 (RS):

Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p23, t&s. Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p16, t&s. ROW 10: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p5, t&s. ROW 11: K4, [p1, k1] 3 times. ROW 12: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, purl to last 5 sts, closing gaps, [k1, p1] twice, k1. ROW 13: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, knit to last 9 sts, leave 50 sts on circ needle and set aside for Back; slip last 9 sts onto dpn. ROW 6: ROW 8:

GRAFT LEFT AND RIGHT F RO N T N E C K B A N D S

Note: The Divided Rib Graft (page 123) is used to connect both sides of the neckband. Divide Right Front sts onto 2 needles, slipping knit sts onto front needle and purl sts onto back needle; repeat for Left Front sts. Graft sts together using Kitchener st.

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PROJE CTS

LITTLE BIAS PONCHO

B AC K With RS facing, slip Right Front sts to circ needle in front of Left Front sts. Continuing with yarn attached to Left Front, pick up and knit 4 sts from back edge of neckband—104 sts. SHAPE BACK SHOULDERS

Note: The following Japanese short rows shape Back shoulders and straighten line of Back until it is parallel to ground. Short rows are worked from neck outward to keep them aligned near shoulder. Close gaps as you come to them. SHORT ROW 1 (RS): K6 from Right Front, t&s. SHORT ROW 2: P15, t&s. SHORT ROW 3: K19 (4 sts past slipped st on opposite side), t&s. SHORT ROW 4: P23 (4 sts past slipped st on opposite side), t&s. SHORT ROWS 5–20: Work to 4 sts past slipped st on opposite side, t&s. SHORT ROW 21: Knit to last 5 sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1.

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ROW 22: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, purl to last 5 sts, closing last gap, [k1, p1] twice, k1. ROW 23: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, k2, ssk, knit to last 9 sts, k2tog, k2, [p1, k1] twice, p1—102 sts remain. ROW 24: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, purl to last 5 sts, [k1, p1] twice, k1. Repeat Rows 23 and 24 thirteen times— 76 sts remain.

Slip 1 purlwise, [k1, p1] twice, k3, M1-L, knit to last 8 sts, M1-R, k3, [p1, k1] twice, p1—78 sts. ROW 9: Repeat Row 3. Repeat Rows 2–9 twice—82 sts. Work even until Back is 1 ¼" shorter than Front at sides, ending with a WS row. ROW 7:

S H A P E B OT TO M E D G E SHORT ROW 1 (RS):

C O N N E C T F RO N T S A N D B A C K

k69, t&s.

Slip 5 sts from Left Front st holder to empty dpn and hold in back of left-hand needle. Slip 1 st from front needle to right-hand needle, [k2tog-2n, p2tog-2n] twice, k2tog-2n, knit to last 6 sts, slip 5 sts from Right Front st holder to empty dpn and hold in back of lefthand needle, [k2tog-2n, p2tog-2n] twice, k2tog-2n, p1 from front needle. ROWS 2, 4, 6, AND 8: Slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] twice, purl to last 5 sts, [k1, p1] twice, k1. ROWS 3 AND 5: Slip 1 purlwise, [k1, p1] twice, knit to last 5 sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1.

SHORT ROW 2:

ROW 1 (RS):

Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice,

P65, t&s. K57, t&s. SHORT ROW 4: P49, t&s. SHORT ROW 5: K41, t&s. SHORT ROW 6: P33, t&s. SHORT ROW 7: Knit to last 5 sts, closing gaps, [p1, k1] twice, p1. ROW 8: Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, purl to last 5 sts, closing remaining gaps, [k1, p1] twice, k1. ROW 9: Slip 1, [k1, p1] twice, k1-f/b, [k1, p1] to end—83 sts. Work even in rib pattern for 3 rows, slipping first st of each row. BO all sts using Tubular BO (see page 120). SHORT ROW 3:

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PROJE CTS

R U C H E H AT A N D C O W L

nit patterns that incorporate ruching typically hide the large number of required increases in either Garter or Reverse Stockinette stitch sections, which creates a striped look. The Speed Increase (see page 127 ) makes it possible to knit a ruched fabric that is a continuous span of Stockinette stitch with only smooth, flowing gathers. Since this ruched fabric can also be worked back and forth, and the gathered sections lengthened, it can easily be applied to sweaters and other projects. HAT

F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

N OTION S

Hat: 18 ½" Band circumference Cowl: 22" circumference

Crochet hook any size from G/6 (4mm) to I/9 (5.5 mm); waste yarn

YA RN

GAU GE

Quince & Co. Osprey (100% wool; 170 yards / 100 grams):

13 sts and 21 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st), using larger needle

Hat: 1 hank Carrie’s yellow Cowl: 1 hank Carrie’s yellow N E E DL E S

Hat: One pair double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 8 (5 mm), for I-Cord One 16" (40 cm) or 20" (50 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 10 (6 mm) One set of four double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 10 (6 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Cowl: One 16" (40 cm) or 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 10 (6 mm)

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The size of the Hat is easily adjustable. It begins with an I-Cord Band that should measure about 2–3" less than the circumference of your head to allow for stretch. Stitches for the Body of the Hat are pickedup from the I-Cord Band (see Pick-Ups from I-Cord, page 163). All increases within the Body are simply a doubling of sts using Speed Increase (see page 127) to create ruched gathers and reach the largest circumference of the Hat before decreasing for the Crown.

BAND

Using smallest needle, crochet hook, waste yarn, and Crochet Provisional CO (see page 119), CO 7 sts. Change to working yarn, leaving 12" tail. Note: When working I-Cord Band for Hat, do not pull yarn tightly across back of work as is usually done, nor leave it too loose; the float should be just long enough to reach from left side of sts to knit first st of next row. Do not pull on I-Cord to make floats disappear, as these floats will be used as sts for Body of Hat (see PickUps from I-Cord, page 163). BEGIN I-CORD: *Knit 1 row; slide sts back to opposite end of dpn without turning, pulling working yarn behind work as indicated in Note; repeat from * until

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PROJE CTS

R U C H E H AT A N D C OW L

piece measures 18 ½", unstretched, or to 2–3" less than circumference of head above ears. JOIN ENDS: Carefully unravel waste yarn from Provisional CO and place live sts onto empty dpn. Hold both dpns with WSs together; graft sts using Kitchener st (see page 122), leaving last st live. Transfer live st to size US 10 circ needle. B O DY

*With empty dpn, pick up float nearest last st on right-hand needle, insert righthand needle from left to right through back of float, slipping twisted float onto right-hand needle; repeat from * until all floats have been picked up onto righthand needle. Bring cast-on tail from back to front between needles, then over right-hand needle to back to form a loop; knit the loop. Place marker on right-hand needle. Note: Hat pictured has 102 sts; your actual st count may vary, depending on your row gauge and the length you worked the I-Cord. The following instructions can be worked on any number of sts. If your Band is the correct length for your head, your Hat will fit. Knit 3 rnds. INCREASE RND: Holding 2 strands of yarn together, knit across all sts (see Speed Increase, page 127). NEXT RND: Knit, working loops from Speed Increase separately to double sts. Knit 4 rnds. S H A P E C ROW N

Note: Change to dpns when necessary for number of sts on needle. DECREASE RND 1: [K2tog] to end—original st count restored. Knit 8 rnds.

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[K2, k2tog] to end. If 3 sts remain at end of rnd, k1, k2tog; if 2 sts remain at end of rnd, k2; if 1 st remains at end of rnd, k1. Knit 6 rnds. DECREASE RND 3: Repeat Decrease Rnd 2. Knit 4 rnds. DECREASE RND 4: Repeat Decrease Rnd 2. Knit 2 rnds. DECREASE RND 5: Repeat Decrease Rnd 2. Knit 1 rnd. DECREASE RND 6: [K1, k2tog] to end. If 2 sts remain at end of rnd, k2; if 1 st remains at end of rnd, k1. DECREASE RNDS 7 AND 8: [K2tog] to end, end k1 if an odd number of sts. Cut yarn, leaving an 8" tail. Thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight, and fasten off to inside of Hat. DECREASE RND 2:

COWL Using size 10 needles, CO 65 sts. RND 1: Holding end with attached yarn in your right hand, slip 1 st from righthand needle to left-hand needle, k2tog ( joining ends to work in the rnd); k2, p1, [k3, p1] to end—64 sts remain. RND 2: [K3, p1] to end. RNDS 3 AND 4: Knit. RND 5: Holding 2 strands of yarn together, knit across all sts (see Speed Increase, page 127). RND 6: Knit, working loops from Speed Increase separately—128 sts. RNDS 7–11: Knit. RND 12: [K2tog] to end—64 sts remain. RNDS 13–15: Knit. Repeat Rnds 3–15 once, Rnds 3–14 once, then Rnd 2 twice. BO all sts knitwise.

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SLE E P SHADE S

hen knit with an incredibly soft and luxurious yarn, the sleep shades are a dream to wear. I made a pair of these for myself, so I can assure you that they work to eliminate ambient light. Choose between the horn-rimmed and simple version—whichever best suits your style. F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

Horn-Rimmed Shades: 4" wide at widest point x 20" circumference Simple Shades: 3 ½" wide at widest point x 20" circumference

HO RN-RIMME D SHADE S Using smaller needle and Yarnover CO (see page 112), CO 32 sts onto left-hand needle, leaving last st on right-hand needle; do not turn—33 sts.

YA RN

Blue Sky Alpaca Worsted Hand Dyes (50% royal alpaca / 50% merino wool; 100 yards / 100 grams): Horn-Rimmed Shades: 1 hank Mulberry Simple Shades: 1 hank Butterscotch N E E DL E S

One 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 5 (3.75 mm) One pair double-pointed needles (dpn) or short straight needles size US 7 (4.5 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. GAU G E

18 sts and 42 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Garter st (knit every row), using smaller needles

S H A P E B OT TO M O F L E F T E Y E

Note: Left and Right Eyes are shaped using short rows (see page 148). SHORT ROW 1 (RS): K9 (toward nose), w&t. SHORT ROW 2: K4, w&t. SHORT ROW 3: K5, w&t. SHORT ROW 4: K6, w&t. SHORT ROW 5: K7, w&t. SHORT ROW 6: K8, w&t. SHORT ROW 7: K9, w&t. SHORT ROW 8: K10, w&t. SHORT ROW 9: K11, w&t. SHORT ROW 10: K12, w&t. SHORT ROW 11: K13 w&t. SHORT ROW 12: K15 (to end). SHORT ROW 13: K16, w&t. SHORT ROW 14: K16 (to end).

S H A P E B OT TO M O F R I G H T E Y E

K27 (6 sts before left edge), w&t. SHORT ROW 16: K4 (toward nose), w&t. SHORT ROW 17: K5, w&t. SHORT ROW 18: K6, w&t. SHORT ROW 19: K7, w&t. SHORT ROW 20: K8, w&t. SHORT ROW 21: K9, w&t. SHORT ROW 22: K10, w&t. SHORT ROW 23: K11, w&t. SHORT ROW 24: K12, w&t. SHORT ROW 25: K13, w&t. SHORT ROW 26: K14, w&t. SHORT ROW 27: K15 (to end). SHORT ROW 28: K16, w&t. SHORT ROW 29: K16 (to end). SHORT ROW 15 (RS):

Continuing in Garter st (knit every row), work even for 9 rows.

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SLEEP SHADES

S H A P E TO P O F L E F T E Y E

K14 (toward nose, 2 sts before center st), w&t. SHORT ROW 2: K14 (to end). SHORT ROW 3: Using Yarnover CO, CO 2 sts onto left-hand needle, leaving last CO st on right-hand needle (3 total sts CO), k13 (toward nose, 3 sts before last w&t), w&t. SHORT ROW 4: K12 (to last 2 sts), w&t. SHORT ROW 5: K9 (3 sts before last w&t), w&t. SHORT ROW 6: K8, w&t. SHORT ROW 7: K5, w&t. SHORT ROW 8: K7, p1 (to end). ROW 9: Slip 1, knit to end. SHORT ROW 1 (RS):

S H A P E TO P O F R I G H T E Y E

K14 (toward nose, 2 sts before center st), w&t, SHORT ROW 11: K14, AO-h 3 sts onto right-hand needle—39 sts. SHORT ROW 12: K14 (toward nose), w&t. SHORT ROW 13: K12 (to last 2 sts), w&t. SHORT ROW 14: K9, w&t. SHORT ROW 15: K8, w&t. SHORT ROW 16: K5, w&t. SHORT ROW 17: K8 (to end). ROW 18: Knit to last st, yf, turn. SHORT ROW 10 (WS):

Horn-Rimmed Shades

76

BO ROW (RS): Using larger needle, BO sts knitwise, starting with last st on righthand needle and slipping first st with attached yarn on left-hand needle, until 2 sts remain on left-hand needle, k2tog, pso, yoc1, pick up and knit next purl bump on side, pso, pick up and knit second purl bump, pso, yoc1, [pick up and knit next purl bump on underside of horn shape, pso] 3 times—1 st remains.

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STRAP

S H A P E TO P O F R I G H T E Y E

With RS of Shade facing, using larger needle, pick up and knit 10 sts along straight side edge of Right Eye—11 sts. ROW 1 (WS): Slip 1 purlwise, [k1, p1] 5 times. ROW 2: Slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] 5 times. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 20" from the beginning, or 2" smaller than circumference of head.

K28 (2 sts before side edge), w&t. SHORT ROW 8: K12 (toward nose, 2 sts before center st), w&t. SHORT ROW 9: K11, w&t. SHORT ROW 10: K8, w&t. SHORT ROW 11: K7, w&t. SHORT ROW 12: K4, w&t. SHORT ROW 13: K8 (to end).

FI N I S H ING

NEXT ROW (WS):

CONNECT ENDS

Divide sts onto 2 dpns (see Divide Stitches, page 137) by slipping knit sts to front dpn and purl sts to back dpn. Using empty dpn, pick up 11 sts along straight side edge of opposite end of piece. Divide these sts onto 2 dpns by [slipping 1 st to front dpn and 1 st to back dpn] across needle. Connect ends using Divided Rib Graft (see page 123). S I M PL E S HAD ES Work as for Horn-Rimmed Shades through Short Row 29 of Bottom of Eye shaping. Continuing in Garter st, work even for 17 rows. S H A P E TO P O F L E F T E Y E

K14 (toward nose, 2 sts before center st), w&t. SHORT ROW 2: K14 (to end). SHORT ROW 3: Slip 1, k10 (3 sts before last wrap, 5 sts before center st), w&t. SHORT ROW 4: K9 (2 sts before side edge), w&t. SHORT ROW 5: K6 (3 sts before last w&t, 8 sts before center st), w&t. SHORT ROW 6: K5, w&t. SHORT ROW 1 (RS):

SHORT ROW 7 (RS):

Slip 1, knit to end. BO sts until 1 st remains on right-hand needle; do not cut yarn. STRAP

With RS of Shade facing, using larger needle, pick up and knit 10 sts along straight side edge of Right Eye—11 sts. ROW 1 (WS): Slip 1 purlwise, [k1, p1] 5 times. ROW 2: Slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] 5 times. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 20" from the beginning, or to 2" smaller than circumference of head.

Simple Shades

FINISHING CONNECT ENDS

Divide sts onto 2 dpns (see Divide Stitches, page 137) by slipping knit sts to front dpn and purl sts to back dpn. Using empty dpn, pick up 11 sts along straight side edge of opposite end of piece. Divide these sts onto 2 dpns by [slipping 1 st to front dpn and 1 st to back dpn] across needle. Connect ends using Divided Rib Graft.

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S I M PL E F O L D S C A R F

his quick and easy-to-knit scarf in chunky yarn is like three-dimensional texture on steroids. The bold fold pattern is created by a simple combination of horizontally bound-off stitches followed by the same number of vertically picked-up stitches. Make this scarf in the traditional rectangular style, or begin the project with a provisional cast-on and graft the two ends to create a circular piece that can be coiled around the neck (see page 80 ). F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

Approximately 7 ½" wide by 60" long YA RN

Quince & Co. Puffin (100% wool; 100 grams / 100 yards): Scarf: 4 hanks Bird’s Egg Cowl: 4 hanks Pomegranate N E E DL E S

One pair straight needles size US 11 (8 mm) One straight needle size US 10 (6 mm), for final BO (optional) One double-pointed needle (dpn) size US 4 (3.5 mm), for picking up sts Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. GAU G E

17 sts and 16 rows = 4" (10 cm) K3, P3 Rib, using largest needles, unstretched

78

SCARF Note: To pick up sts perpendicular to working needle, see Pick-ups Away from the Edge (page 164). Sts are always picked up on WS so that BO fold of fabric will fall to RS. Using largest needles, CO 32 sts as follows: slipknot, [3 sts using Long-Tail CO (page 110), 3 sts using Reverse-Long Tail CO (page 111)] 5 times, then 1 st using Long-Tail CO. ROW 1 (RS): Slip 1 purlwise, [k3, p3] to last st, k1. ROWS 2–16: Repeat Row 1. ROW 17: BO 9 sts in pattern, turn to WS and pick up 9 strands down the length with the dpn (see Pick-Ups Away from the Edge, page 164) (photo 1, page 81). With working needle, work sts on dpn as follows: P2, k3, p3, k1 (photo 2, page 81).

Turn and slip 9 sts just worked plus last st from BO onto dpn. With empty needle, work sts on dpn as follows: Slip 1 purlwise, k3, p3, k3 (photo 3, page 81), then work across next needle as follows: [P3, k3] to last 4 sts, p3, k1. ROWS 18–27: Slip 1 purlwise, [k3, p3] to last st, k1. ROW 28 (WS): BO 9 sts in pattern, pick up 9 strands down the length with dpn. With working needle, work sts on dpn as follows: P2, k3, p3, k1. Turn and slip 9 sts just worked plus last st from BO onto dpn. With empty needle, work sts on dpn as follows: Slip 1 purlwise, k3, p3, k3, then work across next needle as follows: [P3, k3] to last 4 sts, p3, k1.

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80

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Making Fold

SIMPLE FOLD SCARF

Repeat Rows 7–28 until piece measures approximately 60", ending final repeat with Row 27. BO all sts tightly in pattern, or use a smaller needle to keep edge from flaring. COWL VARIAT IO N The Cowl variation uses the same pattern rows as the Scarf.

1

Using largest needles, crochet hook, waste yarn, and Crochet Provisional CO (see page 119), CO 32 sts. Knit 1 row. Work as for Scarf, beginning with Row 5; work even until piece measures approximately 57", ending with Row 22. CONNECT THE ENDS

2

Both ends of the Cowl are connected using a Divided Rib Graft (see page 123). This graft pulls in the width some, but it is less visible than the Three-Needle BO (see page 122), which is another option. If you choose to use the Divided Rib Graft, divide the K3, P3 Rib by slipping knit stitches to the front needle and purl stitches to the back needle. Remove the Provisional CO to divide the cast-on stitches onto 2 needles. Graft both ends together using Divided Rib Graft.

3

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FOLDE D BAGS

olds at the bottom of these bags minimize the overall size while allowing expansion as they are filled. Both bags are simply open-ended tubes, with each bottom folded and closed to create a different compacted shape. A provisional cast-on makes it possible to place the bottom stitches onto needles and arrange them into a variety of shapes that are locked into position with Kitchener stitch. The two fold options in these patterns will hopefully inspire you to experiment with configurations of your own. F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

Solid Version: 6" wide x 8 ½" high when folded flat, not including Strap; approximately 24" circumference at widest point when unfolded Striped Version: 5 ½" wide x 10" high, when folded flat, not including Ties; approximately 33" circumference when unfolded YA RN

Striped Version: One 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 10 (6 mm) One set of ten double-pointed needles size US 8 (5 mm), 9 (5.5 mm), or 10 (6 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. N OTION S

Waste yarn; stitch marker

Harrisville Designs Highland for Weavers (100% virgin wool; 100 yards / 100 grams):

Striped Version: Crochet hook size US J/10 (6 mm)

Solid Version: 2 hanks Olive

GAU GE

Striped Version: 1 hank each Dove Gray (A), Oatmeal (B), Charcoal (C), and Suede (D)

14 sts and 19 rows = 4" (19 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st), using largest needle and 2 strands of yarn held together

SO LID BAG Using circ needle, crochet hook, waste yarn, and Crochet Provisional CO (see page 119), CO 89 sts. Change to 2 strands of working yarn held together, purl 1 row. NEXT RND: Holding needle with working yarn in your left hand, and being careful not to twist sts, slip 1 st to right-hand end of needle, pm for beginning of rnd, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—88 sts remain. Work even until piece measures 6" from the beginning. Remove marker, k11. Leave sts on needle; do not cut yarn.

N E E DL E S

Solid Version: One 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 10 (6 mm) One set of six double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 10 (6 mm)

STITCH PATTERN

Stripe Pattern: Working in St st, and using 2 strands of yarn held together, work 1 row A, 3 rnds A, then 4 rnds each in B, C, A, B, C, D, B, A, C, B, then A.

One pair double-pointed needles size US 8 (5 mm)

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FOLDED BAGS

Closing Bottom of Solid Bag

C L O S I N G B OT TO M

1

Note: Bottom of Bag will now be folded to create 2 slightly off-center sections, then closed and locked in this formation using Kitchener st (see page 122). Carefully unpick Provisional CO and divide sts onto 6 dpns as follows: NEEDLE 1: 11 sts; NEEDLE 2: 22 sts; NEEDLES 3 AND 4: 11 sts each; NEEDLE 5: 22 sts; NEEDLE 6: 11 sts. With Needle 5 facing you, fold Needle 4 to the left and Needle 6 to the right behind Needle 5 (photo 1), so that WSs are together; slip sts from Needle 4 to Needle 6 (photo 2). With Needle 2 facing away from you, fold Needle 3 to the left and Needle 1 to the right in front of Needle 2; slip sts from Needle 1 to Needle 3. Using Kitchener st and two 38" long strands of yarn held together, graft sts on Needles 5 and 6 together (photo 3), and sts on Needles 1 and 2 together. Cut yarn.

2

S H A P E TO P

Transfer sts from circ needle to 6 dpns as follows: NEEDLE 1: 22 sts, placing marker after first st; NEEDLES 2 AND 3: 11 sts each; NEEDLE 4: 22 sts; NEEDLES 5 AND 6: 11 sts each. Holding Needles 1 and 2 so that WSs are together, beginning at outer edge, and using Kitchener st and two 14" strands of yarn held together, graft together last 5 sts of Needle 1 and first 5 sts of Needle 2, then slip remaining 6 sts from Needle 2 onto Needle 1; holding Needles 4 and 5 so that WSs are together, and beginning at outer edge, graft together last 5 sts of Needle 4 and first 5 sts of Needle 5, then slip remaining 6 sts from Needle 5 onto Needle 4— 68 sts remain [23 sts each on Needles 1 and 4; 11 sts each on Needles 3 and 6] (photo 4). Renumber Needles 1, 3, 4, and 6 to 1, 2, 3, and 4.

3

4

84

With attached yarn, knit, hiding wrap on 18th st on Needles 1 and 3 on Rnd 1. RND 2 (DECREASE): NEEDLES 1 AND 3: K15, CDD, knit to end of needle; NEEDLES 2 AND 4: Knit to last st on needle, LLI, k1—66 sts remain [21-12-21-12]. RND 5 (DECREASE): NEEDLES 1 AND 3: K14, CDD, knit to end of needle; NEEDLES 2 AND 4: Knit to last st on needle, LLI, k1—64 sts remain [19-13-19-13]. RND 8 (DECREASE): NEEDLES 1 AND 3: K13, CDD, knit to end of needle; NEEDLES 2 AND 4: Knit to last st on needle, LLI, k1—62 sts remain [17-14-17-14]. RND 11 (DECREASE): NEEDLES 1 AND 3: K12, CDD, knit to end of needle; NEEDLES 2 AND 4: Knit to last st on needle, LLI, k1—60 sts remain [15 sts each needle]. RND 12: NEEDLES 1, 2 AND 3: Knit; NEEDLE 4: BO 12 sts knitwise, k2—48 sts remain [15-15-15-3]. RNDS 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 9, AND 10:

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Fold Needle 4 to left and hold behind Needle 1 so that WSs are together and yarn is at outside edge, [k2tog-2n] 3 times, k10 (to last 2 sts on needle), turn to WS; fold needle with last 2 sts to left and hold in front of Needle 1, [p2tog-2n] twice—13 sts remain on needle; NEEDLE 2: BO 12 sts knitwise, k2—3 sts remain on needle; NEEDLE 3: Fold Needle 2 to left and hold behind Needle 3 so that WSs are together and yarn is at outside edge, [k2tog-2n] 3 times, k10, turn to WS; fold needle with 2 sts to left in front of working needle, [p2tog-2n] twice, p11 (to end of Needle 3)—13 sts remain on needle. RND 13: NEEDLE 1:

STRAP

Change to smaller needles. ROWS 1 AND 3 (RS): Slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] 6 times. ROWS 2 AND 4: Slip 1 purlwise, [k1, p1] 6 times. ROWS 5 AND 7: Slip 1 knitwise, [k1, p1] 5 times, k2. ROWS 6 AND 8: Slip 1 purlwise, [k1, p1] 5 times, p2. Repeat Rows 1–8 until Strap measures 32", or to desired length. With Strap side of Bag facing away from you, twist Strap a half turn clockwise and, using Kitchener st, graft to 13 sts on side facing you.

Closing Bottom of Striped Bag

C L O S I N G B OT TO M

Note: Bottom of Bag will now be folded to create 3 distinct sections, then closed and locked in this formation using Kitchener st (see page 122). Carefully unpick Provisional CO and divide sts onto dpns as follows: NEEDLE 1: 20 sts; NEEDLE 2: 12 sts; NEEDLES 3 AND 4: 10 sts; NEEDLE 5: 8 sts; NEEDLE 6: 20 sts; NEEDLE 7: 12 sts; NEEDLES 8 AND 9: 10 sts; NEEDLE 10: 8 sts. With Needle 1 facing you, fold Needle 2 to the right and Needle 6 to the left behind Needle 1, so that WSs are together; slip sts from Needle 10 to Needle 2. Using 2 strands of A held together and Kitchener st, graft sts on Needles 1 and 2 together (photo 1). Slip sts from Needle 9 to Needle 3, and sts from Needle 8 to Needle 4. Using 2 strands of A held together, graft sts on Needles 3 and 4 together (photo 2). Slip sts from Needle 7 to Needle 5. Using 2 strands of A held together, graft sts on Needles 5 and 6 together.

1

2

TIE

Using crochet hook and 2 strands of A held together, work crochet chain 100" long. Thread Tie through eyelet row, beginning at left-hand eyelet on front of top fold, working clockwise, and ending at right-hand eyelet. Join ends of chain together using a slip st.

ST RI PED B AG Using circ needle, crochet hook, waste yarn, and Crochet Provisional CO (see page 119), CO 121 sts. Change to 2 strands of A held together and Stripe Pattern. Work as for Solid Bag until Stripe Pattern is completed. EYELET RND: [K4, yo, k2tog, k9, yo, k2tog, k3] 6 times. Knit 1 rnd, knitting all yos. BO all sts knitwise.

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F RI NG E D C A B L E C OW L

his whimsical cowl is both fun to knit and fun to wear, and I designed it with myself in mind. I love snowshoeing through the Maine woods in winter, and a soft, squishy hand-knitted cowl is indispensable on my daily outings. Since the pattern requires you to work just four simple fringed flaps into the cowl, it’s also a great project for learning how to knit continuous pieces using CAPS (page 154). F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

19 ½" circumference x 7 ½" wide YA RN

Quince & Co. Osprey (100% wool; 170 yards / 100 grams): 1 hank Nasturtium N E E DL E S

One 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 10 1/2 (6.5 mm) One 24" (60 cm) long circular needle size US 8 (5 mm) One set of five double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 10 ½ (6.5 mm) N OTI O N S

Crochet hook size US I/9 (5.5 mm) GAU G E

20 sts and 19 rows = 4" (10 cm) in K1, P1 Rib, using larger needle, unstretched

86

COWL Using Turkish CO (see page 118), CO 40 sts using larger needle in upper position and smaller needle in lower position Notes: 1) Only sts on upper needle are worked; sts on lower needle are left on needle until Finishing. 2) Except for sts slipped while working w&t’s for CAPS, all sts are slipped knitwise. ROW 1 (WS): Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end. ROWS 2–9: Repeat Row 1. ROW 10: Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, work Flap (see below), [k1, p1] to end. ROW 11: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end. ROW 12: Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, slip next 10 sts to dpn and hold to back, [k1, p1] 5 times, [k1, p1] 5 times from dpn, [k1, p1] to end. ROWS 13–29: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end. ROW 30: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 12 times, work Flap, [k1, p1] to end.

Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end. Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 7 times, slip next 10 sts to dpn and hold to front, [k1, p1] 5 times, [k1, p1] 5 times from dpn, [k1, p1] to end. ROW 33–40: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] to end. Repeat Rows 1–40 once, then repeat Row 1 four times. ROW 31: ROW 32:

FLAP

Notes: 1) Flaps are worked using CAPS technique (see CAPS, page 154). 2) Sts slipped while working w&t’s are always slipped purlwise. Turn to WS. CO 16 sts onto left-hand needle as follows: AO-h 6 sts, KCO 10 sts. ROW 1 (WS): Using dpn, slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] 4 times, p2tog, w&t. ROW 2 (USE CIRC): Using circ needle, [k1, p1] 5 times, turn. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 four times.

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NEXT ROW: Using dpn, slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] 4 times, p2tog, turn (do not wrap). ATTACH FLAP TO NEXT 10 STS: Hold dpn in front of next 10 sts and [k2tog-2n, p2tog-2n] 5 times.

FI N I S H ING CONNECT ENDS

Divide sts onto 2 dpns (see Divide Stitches, page 137) by slipping knit sts to front dpn and purl sts to back dpn. Divide CO sts from smaller needle onto 2 dpns by [slipping 1 st to front dpn and 1 st to back dpn] across smaller needle. Connect ends using Divided Rib Graft (see page 123). FRINGE

Cut forty strands of yarn 7" long. Hold 2 strands together and fold in half. Using crochet hook, pull folded pair through bottom edge of each knit column on Flaps, from RS to WS. Bring four ends of Fringe through loop on WS and pull snug. Trim ends if necessary.

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PROJE CTS

ROCKI NG RI B WRAP

his reversible wrap was designed to show one approach to increasing and decreasing unit-style stitch patterns, by adding and subtracting complete units along the wrap’s lower edge. The unit stitch pattern used for this wrap is a modification of the Rocking Rib Stitch (page 159 ). It’s shown at right and on page 93 in the small size, and on page 91 in a medium. CO 7 sts.

S I ZE S

N OTES

Small (Medium)

Wrap is reversible, with both sides the same, so any references to RS and WS are strictly to keep you working in the right direction. When working RS rows, you are beginning at the upper, straight edge of the Wrap. WS rows begin at the lower, shaped edge. I suggest you place a marker at the beginning of the first RS row until the pattern becomes clear.

F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

15 (18)" wide x 48 (57)" long, along longest edge YA RN

Brooklyn Tweed Shelter (100% TargheeColumbia wool; 140 yards / 50 grams): 3 (4) hanks Fossil (Tent) N E E DL E S

One 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 7 (4.5 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. N OTI O N S

Stitch marker GAU G E

22 sts and 26 rows = 4" (10 cm) in K1, P1 Rib, unstretched

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WRAP Notes: 1) Work all yos through trailing leg to close (see Yarnover Increase, page 130). 2) With the exception of sts slipped when working w&t, slip sts knitwise. 3) Numerical references to Units refer only to their relative position within their row; for example, Unit 1 in Row 4 would be the last Unit in Row 5. 4) Each Unit within each row increases length of Wrap by 9 rows.

Row 1 sets up first Unit. Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, turn; [Slip 1, p1, (k1, p1) 5 times, turn] 4 times; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times, pso, [k1, pso, p1, pso] twice (photo 1).

ROW 1 (RS):

Row 2 adds Unit to edge (photo 2), then brings first Unit up to same level (photo 3) using CAPS technique (see page 154). Lift wrap that is around st on left-hand needle and place on left-hand needle, KCO 6 sts (knitting into wrap when working first CO st), slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, p1, turn; ROW 2:

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PROJE CTS

ROCKING RIB WRAP

Set Up First Unit

1

Add Unit to Edge

Slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; Slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; [Slip 1, p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, turn] twice; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn (photo 2), AO-h 4 sts, L1k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] twice, [turn; slip 1, (p1, k1) twice, p2tog, w&t; (k1, p1) 3 times] 4 times (photo 3). Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; [Slip 1, p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, turn] twice. Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn, AO-h 4 sts, [(k1, p1) 3 times, turn; slip 1, (p1, k1) twice, p2tog, w&t] 4 times; k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, p1, pso.

ROW 3:

2

ROW 4: UNIT 1 (INCREASE UNIT): Lift wrap around st on left-hand needle and place on left-hand needle, KCO 6 sts, slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, p1, turn; Slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; Slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn;

3

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Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; [Slip 1, p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, turn] twice; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn; UNIT 2: AO-h 4 sts, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 6 times, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] 5 times, p2tog, w&t; k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn. Repeat Unit 2 to last 6 sts; FINAL UNIT: AO-h 4 sts, L1k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] twice, [turn; slip 1, (p1, k1) twice, p2tog, w&t; (k1, p1) 3 times] 4 times. ROW 5: UNIT 1: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; [Slip 1, p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, turn] twice; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn; UNIT 2: AO-h 4 sts, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 6 times, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] 5 times, p2tog, w&t; k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn. Repeat Unit 2 to last 6 sts;

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AO-h 4 sts, [(k1, p1) 3 times, turn; slip 1, (p1, k1) twice, p2tog, w&t] 4 times**; k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, p1, pso.

FINAL UNIT:

Repeat Rows 4 and 5 four (5) times, ending final repeat of Row 5 at **, [k1, p1] 3 times. ROW 6: UNIT 1: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; [Slip 1, p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, turn] twice; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn; UNIT 2: AO-h 4 sts, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 6 times, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] 5 times, p2tog, w&t; k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn. Repeat Unit 2 to last 6 sts; FINAL UNIT: AO-h 4 sts, L1k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] twice, [turn, slip 1, (p1, k1) twice, p2tog, w&t; (k1, p1) 3 times] 4 times. ROW 7: UNIT 1: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn;

Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; [Slip 1, p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, turn] twice; slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn; UNIT 2: AO-h 4 sts, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t;

[K1, p1] 6 times, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] 5 times, p2tog, w&t; k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn. Repeat Unit 2 to last 6 sts; FINAL UNIT: AO-h 4 sts, L1k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] twice, [turn, slip 1, (p1, k1) twice, p2tog, w&t; (k1, p1) 3 times] 4 times. Repeat Rows 6 and 7 until piece measures approximately 33 (40)" from the beginning, measuring along RS straight edge, and ending with a RS row (ending at lower, shaped edge).

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PROJE CTS

ROCKING RIB WRAP

ROW 8: UNIT 1 (DECREASE UNIT): Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, [p1, k1] twice, p1, turn; Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, [p1, k1] twice, p1, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1, turn; Slip 1, p1, k2tog, [p1, k1] twice, p1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, p1, turn; K2tog, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice. turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p1-hw, turn; slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn; UNIT 2: AO-h 4 sts, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 6 times, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] 5 times, p2tog, w&t; k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn. Repeat Unit 2 to last 6 sts; FINAL UNIT: AO-h 4 sts, L1k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] twice, [turn, slip 1, (p1, k1) twice, p2tog, w&t; (k1, p1) 3 times] 4 times. ROW 9: UNIT 1: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; [Slip 1, p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, turn] twice; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn;

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UNIT 2: AO-h 4 sts, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 3 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 6 times, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] 5 times, p2tog, w&t; k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn. Repeat Unit 2 to last 6 sts; FINAL UNIT: AO-h 4 sts, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-hw, [turn, slip 1, (p1, k1) twice, p2tog, w&t; (k1, p1) 3 times] 3 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, w&t; [k1, p1] twice, turn; Slip 1, p1, w&t; k1, p1, turn; Slip 1, [p1, k1-hw] twice, p2tog, w&t; [k1, p1] 3 times.

Repeat Rows 8 and 9 four (5) times, then repeat Row 8 once—18 sts remain. ROW 10: UNIT 1: Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] 6 times, turn; [Slip 1, p1, (k1, p1) 8 times, turn] twice; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn; UNIT 2: AO-h 4 sts, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-hw, [turn, slip 1, (p1, k1) twice, p2tog, w&t; (k1, p1) 3 times] 3 times, turn; Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, w&t; [k1, p1] twice, turn; Slip 1, p1, w&t; k1, p1, turn; Slip 1, [p1, k1-hw] twice, p2tog, w&t; [k1, p1] 3 times.

ROW 11: UNIT 1 (DECREASE UNIT): Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k1-hw, [p1, k1] twice, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, [p1, k1] twice, p1, turn; Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, [p1, k1] twice, p1, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1, turn; Slip 1, p1, k2tog, [p1, k1] twice, p1, yo, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, yo, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, p1, turn; K2tog, [p1, k1] 5 times, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times, turn; K1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] 3 times, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn; FINAL UNIT: AO-h 4 sts, L1k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] twice, [turn, slip 1, (p1, k1) twice, p2tog, w&t; (k1, p1) 3 times] 4 times— 12 sts remain. ROW 12 (BEGIN RS): Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p2tog, [p1, k1] twice, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, [p1, k1] twice, p1, turn; Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p2tog, p1, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k2tog, [p1, k1] twice, p1, turn; Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p2tog, p1, turn; k2tog, [p1, k1] twice, p1, turn; K1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, p1, pso, cut yarn and fasten off.

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PROJE CTS

D I M PL E D C OW L

he pattern of dimples in this cowl creates a deeply textured fabric that boasts an insulating effect like the waffle-weave of classic thermal wear. To produce this chill-chasing pattern, the Divide Stitches (page 137), Combine Stitches (page 136), and CAPS (Continuously Applied Pieces, page 154) techniques are used. F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

N OTES

B E G I N D I M P L E PAT T E R N

Approximately 25" circumference

Stitches slipped on RS rows are slipped knitwise; stitches slipped on WS rows are slipped purlwise.

Notes: 1) Sts placed on hold on CCN are always held to the back. 2) For each group of 6 sts slipped onto CCN, always slip sts onto right-hand tip of needle. 3) Rnds 2, 3, 12, and 13 work only the sts on MN. RND 1: *AO-h 2 sts, slip next 6 sts to CCN, k6 on MN, turn, slip 1, p4, p2tog, w&t, k6; repeat from * to end—91 sts (49 sts on MN, 42 sts on CCN) (photo 1). RND 2: Remove marker, slip 1 st to right-hand needle, replace marker, *k5, ssk; repeat from * to end—84 sts (42 sts each needle). RND 3: Knit. RND 4: Note: To work each group of 6 sts from CCN, push the sts toward left tip of CCN and slip tip to outside of Cowl, through opening created on Rnd 1 (photo 2), then knit the 6 sts from this position. After knitting the 6 sts from CCN, move tip of CCN back to WS before continuing work on MN. *K6 from CCN,

YA RN

Quince & Co. Puffin (100% merino wool; 112 yards / 100 grams): 2 hanks Marsh

Keep CCN to WS so that stitches on hold on CCN are always kept to the back.

N E E DL E S

One 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 13 (9 mm) One 24" long or longer circular needle size US 11 (8 mm). Note: This needle is used like a cable needle and is referred to as CCN (Circular Cable Needle) in the st pattern; it simply holds half the sts to the WS of the work for 7 rows. A longer length than 24" will ensure that sts do not slip off the needle. The CCN is also used for the Turkish CO. Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. N OTI O N S

Stitch marker GAU G E

10 sts and 14 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st), using larger needle

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COWL Using Turkish CO (see page 118), and holding larger main needle (MN) in upper position and smaller needle (CCN) in lower position, CO 48 sts onto each needle—96 sts. Knit across sts on MN, leaving sts on CCN to the back and out of work. Join MN for working in the rnd; pm for beginning of rnd. Working only on sts on MN, begin St st; work even for 12 rnds. NEXT RND: Holding CCN parallel to and behind MN, *[k1 from MN, k1 from CCN] 3 times, k2tog-2n; repeat from * to end—84 sts remain. Drop slipknot from Turkish CO off CCN. Knit 2 rnds.

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[k2tog, k2, ssk] from MN; repeat from * to end—70 sts remain. RNDS 5–9: Knit. RND 10: Remove marker, k1, replace marker, *RLI, k3, RLI, k7; repeat from * to end—84 sts. RND 11: *AO-h 2 sts, k6, turn, slip 1, p4, p2tog, w&t, k6, slip next 6 sts to CCN; repeat from * to end. RNDS 12 AND 13: Repeat Rnds 2 and 3. RND 14: Note: Work sts from CCN as for Rnd 4. *[K2tog, k2, ssk] from MN, k6 from CCN through opening; repeat from * to end—70 sts remain. RNDS 15–19: Knit. RND 20: Remove marker, slip 1 st back to left-hand needle, replace marker, slip st back to right-hand needle, k5, [RLI, k3, RLI, k7] 6 times, RLI, k3, RLI, k1—84 sts. Repeat Rnds 1–16 once. BO all sts knitwise. Working Dimple Pattern

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PROJE CTS

T WI ST S L I PPE R S

n those days when it’s neither warm enough to go barefoot nor cold enough for full-footed slippers, these may be the footwear choice for you. Twist slippers are knit back and forth and use picked-up stitches (see Pick-Ups, page 163 ) to achieve their three-dimensional shape. The name for the slippers is derived from Twist—a stitch pattern I introduced in my book Reversible Knitting. F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

9" long from back of Heel 6" Foot circumference YA RN

Rowan Felted Tweed DK (50% merino wool / 25% alpaca / 25% viscose; 175 yards / 50 grams): 1 ball #147 Dragon N E E DL E S

Two 16" (40 cm) long circular (circ) needles size US 2 (2.75 mm) Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. GAU G E

20 sts and 32 rows = 4" (10 cm) K1, P1 Rib, unstretched

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INST E P Using Long-Tail Cast-On (see page 110), CO 18 sts. Knit 2 rows. ROWS 1 AND 9 (RS): [K1-wy3] to end. ROWS 2 AND 10: [Slip 3 sts purlwise wyib, dropping extra wraps, insert left-hand needle, from right to left, into front of 3 slipped sts, k3tog, yo] to end, eliminating last yo at end of row—11 sts remain after Row 2; 23 sts remain after Row 10. ROWS 3 AND 11: [K1-b/f, k1] to last st, k1-b/f/b—18 sts after Row 3; 36 sts after Row 11. ROWS 4 AND 5: AO-f 9 sts, knit to end— 36 sts after Row 5. ROWS 6–8 AND 12–14: Knit. ROWS 15 AND 16: BO 9 sts, knit to end— 18 sts remain after Row 16. ROWS 17–19: Repeat Rows 1–3. ROWS 20 AND 21: AO-f 6 sts, knit to end—30 sts.

Knit. Repeat Rows 1–3. ROWS 31 AND 32: BO 6 sts, knit to end—18 sts remain after Row 32. ROWS 33–35: Repeat Rows 1–3. ROWS 36 AND 37: AO-f 6 sts, knit to end—30 sts after Row 37. ROWS 22–24 AND 28–30: ROWS 25–27:

TO P O F TO E Knit 16 rows. S H A P E TO P O F TO E

Note: Top of Toe is shaped using short rows (see page 148). SHORT ROW 1 (RS): K29, w&t. SHORT ROW 2: K28, w&t. SHORT ROW 3: K27, w&t. SHORT ROW 4: K26, w&t. SHORT ROW 5: K25, w&t. SHORT ROW 6: K24, w&t. SHORT ROW 7: K23, w&t.

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PROJE CTS

TWIST SLIPPERS

K22, w&t. K20, w&t. SHORT ROW 10: K18, w&t. SHORT ROW 11: K16, w&t. SHORT ROW 12: K14, w&t. SHORT ROW 13: K12, w&t. SHORT ROW 14: K10 w&t. SHORT ROW 15: Knit to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them. ROW 16: Slip 1, k9, k2tog, k6, k2tog, knit to end, working remaining wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them—28 sts remain.

Slip 1, work to end, working remaining wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them.

SHORT ROW 8:

SOLE

ROW 8:

SHORT ROW 9:

Note: As the sole is knit, it is attached to the extensions on the instep. ROWS 21, 23, AND 25: Slip 1 purlwise, [k1, p1] to end. ROWS 22 AND 24: Slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] to end. ROW 26: Wyib, pick up edge st from next purl ridge of Instep, and place on lefthand needle, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] to last st, wyib, slip 1 knitwise, using right-hand needle, pick up 1 st from next purl ridge on Instep, insert tip of left-hand needle into front of last 2 sts on right-hand needle and k2tog. ROW 27: Slip 1 purlwise, k1, [p1, k1] to last st, slip 1 wyif. ROWS 28 AND 29: Repeat Rows 26 and 27. ROW 30: Repeat Row 26. ROWS 31–33: Repeat Rows 21-23. ROWS 34–38: Repeat Rows 26-30. ROWS 39–48: Repeat Rows 21-30. ROW 49: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 4 times, ssk, [k1, p1] twice, k1, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] 4 times—25 sts remain. ROW 50: Slip 1, work to end. ROW 51: Slip 1 purlwise, [k1, p1] to end. ROWS 52–56: Repeat Rows 26–30. ROW 57: Slip 1, [k1, p1] 4 times, ssk, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] 4 times— 23 sts remain. ROW 58: Slip 1, work to end. Work even, slipping first st of each row, until piece measures 8 ¼" from tip of Toe, ending with a RS row.

Note: As you pick up sts on both sides of Heel, pick up outer half of st so that remaining half will be on inside and not visible from outside of Heel. ROW 1 (RS): Pick up and knit 11 sts along side of Heel—34 sts. ROW 2: Slip 1, knit to end, pick up and knit 11 sts along side of Heel—45 sts. ROWS 3–6: Knit, slipping first st of each row. ROW 7: K1-wy2, [k1-wy3] to last st, k1-wy2. ROW 8: [Slip 3 sts purlwise wyib, dropping extra wraps, insert left-hand needle, from right to left, into front of 3 slipped sts, k3tog, yo] to end, eliminating yo at end of last repeat—29 sts. ROW 9: K1-b/f, [k1, k1-b/f ] to end—44 sts. ROWS 10–13: Knit, slipping first st of each row. ROW 14: Slip 1, k18, k2tog, k2, k2tog, knit to end—42 sts remain. ROWS 15 AND 16: Repeat Rows 7 and 8—27 sts remain. ROWS 17–21: Repeat Rows 9-13—41 sts after Row 17. ROW 22: Slip 1, k17, k2tog, k2, k2tog, knit to end—39 sts remain. ROWS 23–25: Repeat Rows 7–9—25 sts remain after Row 24; 38 sts after Row 25. Knit 4 rows. BO all sts knitwise, leaving last st on needle; do not cut yarn.

HE E L

FINISHING

BOTTO M OF FOOT S H A P E B OT TO M O F TO E

Note: Bottom of Toe is shaped using short rows (see page 148). SHORT ROW 1 (RS): [K1, p1] 10 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 2: [K1, p1] 6 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 3: [K1, p1] 7 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 4: [K1, p1] 8 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 5: [K1, p1] 9 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 6: [K1, p1] 10 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 7: [K1, p1] 11 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 8: [P1, k1] 12 times, w&t. SHORT ROW 9: [K1, p1] 12 times, k2tog— 27 sts remain. B OT TO M O F TO E

Note: Bottom of Toe is worked until it is same length as Top of Toe, picking up edge sts from Top of Toe to join pieces. ROW 1 (WS): Slip 1 purlwise, k1, [p1, k1] to last st, slip 1 wyif. ROW 2: Wyib, pick up edge st from next purl ridge of Top of Toe, and place on left-hand needle, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] 12 times, slip 1 knitwise wyib, using right-hand needle, pick up 1 st from next purl ridge on Top of Toe, insert tip of left-hand needle into front of last 2 sts on right-hand needle and k2tog. ROWS 3–20: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 nine times.

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TO P O F H E E L

SHAPE HEEL

ICORD TIES

Note: Heel is shaped using short rows. SHORT ROW 1 (WS): Continuing in rib pattern as established, slip 1, work 21 sts, w&t. SHORT ROW 2: Work 21 sts, w&t. SHORT ROW 3: Work 19 sts, w&t. SHORT ROW 4: Work 17 sts, w&t. SHORT ROW 5: Work 15 sts, w&t. SHORT ROW 6: Work 13 sts, w&t. SHORT ROW 7: Work to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts as you come to them.

Pick up and knit 1 st on side next to last st, pso, pick up and knit next st on side— 2 sts. Work I-Cord: *Knit 1 row; slide sts back to opposite end of dpn without turning, pulling working yarn snugly behind work; repeat from * until piece measures 8". K2tog, fasten off last st. Pick up and knit 2 sts on opposite edge of Heel and work another 8" I-cord.

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PROJE CTS

MY TI E CAR DIGAN

y Tie Cardigan demonstrates how a unit stitch pattern can be used in a garment that requires a lot of shaping. Unit stitch patterns, which are modular in structure, require you to complete each small multi-rowed unit before moving on to the next unit in the row. To avoid breaking up the pattern in the yoke with raglan lines, I decided to spread a large number of increases across a row, like a patterned Icelandic sweater. Since the rows in the yoke of My Tie are modular “unit rows,” the challenge for me was to increase the size of each unit while maintaining the integrity of the stitch pattern. S I ZE S

GAU GE

SHAPE CASING

X-Small (Small, Medium, Large)

13 sts and 19 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st), using smaller needle

Working on sts on upper needle only, slip 1, purl to end. ROWS 2, 4, AND 6: Slip 1, knit to end. ROW 8 (CLOSE CASING): (see Hems and Casings, page 150) Holding second needle behind working needle, [k2tog-2n] to end—58 (62, 67, 71) sts remain.

F I N I S H E D M EA SUR EM ENTS

33 ½ (37 ¾, 42 ¼, 46 ½)" chest

N OTES

YA RN

Except for the slipped sts worked in the short rows, when slipping sts, slip knit sts knitwise and purl sts purlwise.

Quince & Co. Osprey (100% wool; 170 yards / 100 grams): 4 (4, 5, 6) hanks Storm N E E DL E S

Two 29" (70 cm) long or longer circular (circ) needles size US 10 ½ (6.5 mm) One 24" (60 cm) long circular needle size US 10 ½ (6.5 mm) or smaller, for holding sts One straight, double-pointed, or circular needle size US 13 (9 mm), for binding off N OTI O N S

Crochet hook size I/9 (5.5 mm); cable needle (cn); 8 stitch markers

Cardigan is worked from the top down. Yoke pattern is worked in units, incorporating the CAPS technique (see page 154).

ROWS 1, 3, 5, AND 7 (WS):

SHAPE YOKE

YO KE Using 2 smaller, longer circ needles and Turkish Cast-On (see page 118), CO 58 (62, 67, 71) sts onto each needle—116 (124, 134, 142) sts. Knit across all sts on upper needle, leaving sts on lower needle out of work.

Slip 1 purlwise, k1, p1, k1, holding 2 strands of yarn together (see Speed Increase, page 127), p49 (54, 58, 63), using 1 strand of yarn, purl 1 (0, 1, 0), [k1, p1] twice.

ROW 9 (WS):

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PROJE CTS

MY TIE CARDIGAN

ROW 10: Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, knit to last 4 sts, working loops from Speed Increase separately to double sts, [p1, k1] twice—107 (116, 125, 134) sts. ROWS 11, 13, AND 15: Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, purl to last 4 sts, [k1, p1] twice. ROWS 12 AND 14: Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, knit to last 4 sts, [p1, k1] twice.

Note: Rows 16 and 20 are divided into 11 (12, 13, 14) separate units. You will work each unit separately before moving on to the next unit. The first and last units include the 4 edge sts; the remaining units are all worked alike. ROW 16 (CABLE ROW): UNIT 1: Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k9, turn; slip 1, p8, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, p1, slip 5 sts to cn and hold to back, k4, turn; slip 1, p3, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k4, AO-h 1 st, [k1, RLI, k4] from cn, turn; slip 1, p4, p2tog, turn; slip 1, k5, turn; slip 1, p9, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k10, do not turn; UNIT 2: AO-h 4 sts, k9, turn; slip 1, p7, p2tog, w&t; slip 5 sts to cn and hold to back, k4, turn; slip 1, p2, p2tog, w&t; k4, AO-h 1 st, [k1, RLI, k4] from cn, turn; slip 1, p4, p2tog, turn; slip 1, k5, turn; slip 1, p8, p2tog, w&t; k10, do not turn. Repeat Unit 2 eight (9, 10, 11) times (to last 13 sts); FINAL UNIT: AO-h 4 sts, k9, [p1, k1] twice, turn; slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p8, p2tog, w&t; slip next 5 sts to cn and hold to back, k4, turn; slip 1, p2, p2tog, w&t; k4, AO-h 1 st, [k1, RLI, k4] from cn, [p1, k1] twice, turn; slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p5, p2tog, turn; slip 1, k5, [p1, k1] twice, turn; slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p9, p2tog, w&t; k10, [p1, k1] twice—128 (139, 150, 161) sts.

ROW 17: Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p10, slip 1 st to cn and hold to front, p1, p2tog-2n (1 st from back needle together with 1 st from cn), [p8, slip 1 st to cn and hold to front, p1, p2tog-2n] 9 (10, 11, 12) times (to last 12 sts), p8, [k1, p1] twice—118 (128, 138, 148) sts. ROW 18: Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, knit to last 4 sts, [p1, k1] twice. ROW 19: Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, purl to last 4 sts, [k1, p1] twice. ROW 20 (CABLE ROW):

Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k13, turn; slip 1, p12, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k6, slip 4 sts to cn and hold to front, k1, RLI, k2, turn; slip 1, p9, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k8, RLI, k2, AO-h 1 st, k4 from cn, turn; slip 1, p2, p2tog, turn; slip 1, k3, turn; slip 1, p14, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k15, do not turn; UNIT 2: AO-h 4 sts, k10, turn; slip 1, p8, p2tog, w&t; k3, slip 4 sts to cn and hold to front, k1, RLI, k2, turn; slip 1, p5, p2tog, w&t; k5, RLI, k2, AO-h 1 st, k4 from cn, turn; slip 1, p2, p2tog, turn; slip 1, k3, turn; slip 1, p10, p2tog, w&t; k12, do not turn. Repeat Unit 2 eight (9, 10, 11) times (to last 11 sts). FINAL UNIT: AO-h 4 sts, k1, [RLI, k2] 3 times, [p1, k1] twice, turn; [slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p9, p2tog, w&t; k10, (p1, k1) twice, turn] 3 times—151 (164, 177, 190) sts. UNIT 1:

Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, [p10, slip 1 st to cn and hold to front, p1, p2tog-2n] 10 (11, 12, 13) times, p13, [k1, p1] twice—141 (153, 165, 177) sts. ROW 22: Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k11, [RLI, k4, RLI, k8] 10 (11, 12, 13) times (to last 6 sts), k2, [p1, k1] twice—161 (175, 189, 203) sts. ROW 21:

ROW 23: Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p20 (23, 25, 28), pm, p2, pm for end of Right Front, p32 (34, 36, 38), pm for end of Right Sleeve, p2, pm, p41 (45, 51, 55), pm, p2, pm for end of Back, p32 (34, 36, 38), pm for end of Left Sleeve, p2, pm, p20 (23, 25, 28) sts, [k1, p1] twice (end of Left Front). ROWS 24 AND 25: Work even. INCREASE ROW (RS): Increase 8 sts this row, then every other row 3 (4, 5, 6) times, as follows: Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, [knit to 1 st before marker, RLI, k1, sm, k2, sm, RLI] 4 times, knit to last 4 sts, [p1, k1] twice—193 (215, 237, 259) sts [30 (34, 37, 41) sts each Front; 40 (44, 48, 52) sts each Sleeve; 53 (59, 67, 73) sts for Back]. NEXT ROW: Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, purl to last 4 sts, [k1, p1] twice. Work even until piece measures 8 (8 ½, 9, 9 ½)" from the beginning, ending with a WS row.

LE FT SLE E VE Note: Sleeve is worked using Tubular Knitting (see page 161), which works sts back and forth to create an open tube. Two passes of tubular knitting increase length of Sleeve by 1 row. SET-UP ROW (RS): Work to second marker, removing markers; do not cut yarn. Slip first 20 (22, 24, 26) sts onto empty smaller circ needle; slip next 20 (22, 24, 26) sts onto spare circ needle. Fold circ needles so that WSs are together. Join new ball of yarn; using free end of front circ needle, [yf, slip 1 st on back needle, yb, k1 on front needle] to end, turn. * TUBULAR ROW: [Yf, slip 1 yb, k1] to end. Repeat from * until piece measures 5 (5 ¼, 5 ¾, 6)" from underarm, ending at underarm on final repeat.

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PROJE CTS

MY TIE CARDIGAN

RIBBING ROW: Yf, slip 1, yb, k1, *[yf, slip 1, p1, slip 1, yb, k1] to last 2 sts, yf, slip 1, p1, turn; repeat from * once. Repeat Ribbing Row 3 times. Divide sts onto 2 needles (see Divide Stitches, page 137) by slipping [1 st to back needle and 1 st to front needle] to end. Using larger needle and beginning at underarm on front needle, BO all sts as follows: K1, [k2tog, pso] to last st, k1, pso.

RI G H T S LEEVE Using yarn attached to left underarm, work to third marker, removing markers. Complete as for Left Sleeve.

102

BO DY Using yarn attached to right underarm, knit to last 4 sts, removing markers, [p1, k1] twice—113 (127, 141, 155) sts remain. Work even until piece measures 3 (3 ½, 3 ½, 4)" from underarm, ending with a WS row. EYELET ROW 1 (RS): Slip 1, p1, k1, p1, k3, yo, knit to last 7 sts, yo, k3, [p1, k1] twice. EYELET ROW 2: Slip 1, k1, p1, k1, p2, p2tog, purl to last 8 sts, p2tog, p3, k1, p1. Work even for 8 rows. Repeat Eyelet Rows 1 and 2 once. Work even until piece measures 11 (11 ½, 12 ½, 13 ½)" from underarm, ending with a WS row. RIB SET-UP ROW (RS): Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1, k1-f/b] to last 6 (5, 7, 6) sts, [k1-f/b] 1 (0, 2, 1) time(s), [k1, p1] twice, k1—149 (167, 187, 205) sts.

Slip 1, [k1, p1] to end. Slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] to end. ROW 3: Repeat Row 1. BO ROW: Using larger needle, BO all sts as follows: K1, [k2tog, pso] to end. ROW 1: ROW 2:

FINISHING Using tails, close gaps at underarms. NECK TIE

Using crochet hook and 2 strands of yarn held together, work single crochet chain 40 (42, 44, 46)" long. Attach large safety pin to 1 end and work through Yoke casing. WA I S T T I E

Using crochet hook and 2 strands of yarn held together, work single crochet chain 24–30" long.

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O N A ND O F F

ADD AND SUBTRACT

106

I N T RO D U C T I O N

124

I N T RO D U C T I O N

109

LO N G  TA I L A N D R E V E R S E

126

LEANING INCREASES

LO N G  TA I L C A S T  O N S

127

SPEED INCREASE

112

YA R N OV E R C A S T  O N

130

YA R N OV E R I N C R E A S E

113

AO  H

131

LEANING DECREASES

113

AO  F

132

CENTERED DOUBLE

114

T U BU L A R C A S T  O N

116

OPENTUBE CAST ON

117

CABLE CAST ON

118

TURKISH CAST ON

119

C RO C H E T P ROV I S I O N A L

DECREASE

132

M U LT I P L E  L AY E R D E C R E A S E S

T H R E E -DIME NS IO NA L K N ITTIN G 134

I N T RO D U C T I O N

CAST ON

136

C O M B I N E S T I TC H E S

120

D O U B L E  LO O P C A S T  O N

137

D I V I D E S T I TC H E S

120

T U BU L A R B I N D  O F F

138

P L E AT S

122

THREENEEDLE BIND  OFF

148

S H O RT ROW S

122

K I TC H E N E R S T I TC H

150

HEMS AND CASINGS

123

DIVIDED RIB GRAFT

CONTINUOUS KNITTING 152

I N T RO D U C T I O N

154

C A P S  C O N T I N U O U S LY APPLIED PIECES

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161

T U BU L A R K N I T T I N G

163

PICKUPS

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TECH N IQUES

ON AND OFF

ncluded here are the cast-ons and bind-offs I use most often. They cover a broad range of applications, from general purpose to specialized, that can be applied to both singleedged and double-edged needs. In cases where cast-ons and bind-offs have alternative methods that give the same final result, I’ve included the method I like best, such as the Crochet Provisional CO. I prefer to crochet temporary stitches directly onto my needle so I don’t have to pick up stitches from a finished crochet chain.

Others may disagree about which method is easiest to use, so you may want to try different ones before settling on your own favorite. When trying new methods, sometimes there’s an initial awkwardness, but after some practice they always get easier. S I NG L E- ED G ED C A ST - O NS Single-edged cast-ons are fairly self-defining. These cast-ons create only one working edge and typically work only in one direction. I say typically because there’s always some way to deviate from the conventional. Even though the single-edged cast-on creates a single line of stitches all aimed in the same direction, you can always divide these stitches (see Divide Stitches, page 137) and send them off in different directions. 109 LONG-TAIL AND REVERSE LONG-TAIL CAST- ONS 112 YARNOVER CAST- ON 113 AO -H 113 AO -F 114 TUBULAR CAST- ON 116 OPEN-TUBE CAST- ON 117 CABLE CAST- ON

D O U B L E- ED G ED C A ST - O NS These cast-ons create two connected sets of stitches on two separate needles. There are at least three ways to work the two edges created by a double-edged cast-on. 1) You may choose to use the cast-on as a provisional one, working only one side, while leaving the other on hold to be used later. 2) You may work in opposite but parallel directions simultaneously from the two edges without ever connecting them. 3) You may choose to connect both edges from the first row and work in the round to create a seamless tube that is closed at the starting end.

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FRINGED HEADBAND (YARNOVER CAST- ON)

F O L D E D B A G S ( K I TC H E N E R S T I TC H )

H O O D E D C OW L ( T H R E E - N E E D L E B I N D - O F F )

TECH N IQUES

ON AND OFF

Though provisional cast-ons are usually described as reversible in direction, they are not always undetectably reversible. When you knit the provisional stitches from a double-edged cast-on, you will be knitting stitches that fall between the stitches on the needle that are knit in the opposite direction. In photo 1, note how the provisional stitches on the lower needle are between the columns of knit stitches on the upper needle. If you are working both the primary and provisional stitches in Stockinette stitch, they blend well and the change is almost invisible (photo 2). The one stitch offset from a provisional cast-on is more conspicuous when viewed as a rib pattern (photo 3).

Double-Edged Cast-Ons

1

2

118 TURKISH CAST- ON 119 CROCHET PROVISIONAL CAST- ON 120 DOUBLE-LOOP CAST- ON

SIN GLE-E DG E D B I N D-OFFS As beginning knitters, we all learned the basic bind-off, in which you pass the first stitch over the second, once you have two stitches on your right-hand needle. Many patterns will tell you to work this basic bind-off “in-pattern”—knit the knits and purl the purls. This doesn’t always create the best finish for your piece. Throughout the patterns in this book I include variations on the basic bind-off, such as the finish in My Tie

3

Cardigan (page 99) or Warm Hands Scarf (page 18). 120 TUBULAR BIND - OFF

DOUBLE -E DGE D B I N D-OFFS Double-edged bind-offs can create either seamed finishes or seamless reversible ones. 122 THREE-NEEDLE BIND - OFF 122 KITCHENER STITCH 123 DIVIDED RIB GRAFT

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LO N G- TA I L A N D R E V E R SE LONG-TAIL CAST-ONS More than any other cast-on, the Long-Tail Cast-On is the one I use most often and consider a perfect general purpose cast-on. It’s stable without being tight, and stretchable without seeming loose. Another reason for its popularity among knitters may be that it is easy to learn and easy to memorize and works for a variety of stitch patterns. With a clean, smooth edge on one side, it looks great with basic knit-side Stockinette stitch or textured patterns, and the ridge on the opposite side that resembles a purl row makes it the perfect starter for Garter stitch. So if both sides of the Long-Tail Cast-On make it the perfect multipurpose cast-on, you might ask, “Why bother learning to work it backwards for the Reverse Long-Tail Cast-On? Isn’t the reverse just the inverse of the original?” Yes . . . but being able to work the Long-Tail Cast-On in reverse allows you to mix the smooth look and the purl look that exist on opposite sides of the regular Long-Tail Cast-On onto a single side. For the same reason you appreciate a wide range of available stitch patterns—choices—a combination of mixed Long-Tail Cast-On and Reverse Long-Tail Cast-On offers the option of a barely perceptible transition from cast-on into the main stitch pattern. I used a mix of Long-Tail and Reverse Long-Tail Cast-Ons for the Simple Hat (page 36) where I wanted two different castons for the rib and moss stitch sections, keeping them distinct from each other from the very beginning. Knits advance and purls recede when they are side-by-side, so I chose the knit-like Long-Tail Cast-On for the start of the centered rib, and the purl-like Reverse Long-Tail Cast-On for the moss stitch side sections where the purl squares dominate.

Based on discussions in online forums, the single-most problematic issue many seem to have with any Long-Tail Cast-On is estimating how much yarn is needed for the tail. Fortunately, there are some easy methods to determine tail length aside from guessing. One way to establish the tail length needed is to wrap the yarn around the same needle to be used for the project, with each wrap being equal to the amount of yarn needed to cast on a single stitch. To avoid having to wrap the yarn around the needle for the entire number of desired stitches, you can easily create a measuring length. To create the measuring length, wrap a small number of stitches around the needle, keeping count of the number of wraps. Then unwrap the wrapped yarn and use it to measure the remaining amount needed along the length of the yarn. Add about 6 inches onto the final length to allow for some leftover tail to weave in at the end. A second way to determine tail length is to cast on ten stitches, then rip them out and use the ripped length as a measuring length. Again, add about six inches onto the final length. Just as there are tight and loose knitters, everyone will use a slightly different tension when they wrap and when they cast on. Fortunately, each of us is fairly consistent with how we work. After a few tries, you’ll probably get a feel for your own cast-on wrapping tension, and you’ll never run short or be left with an excessively long tail again.

I also blended both cast-ons to begin the knit two, purl two pattern of the Warm Hands Scarf (page 18). Creating a minimally noticeable cast-on seemed in keeping with the continuous flow throughout the main part of the scarf, where there is a smooth transition into and out of the pockets.

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TECH N IQUES

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ON AND OFF

W O R K I N G T H E L O N G  TA I L C A S T  O N

Long-Tail Cast-On

Make a slipknot along the project yarn leaving the appropriate length of tail. Place the slipknot on your project needle. STEP 1: Hold the needle in your right hand and drape the yarn

over your left hand, letting the tail lie over your thumb and the working yarn lie over your index finger. Hold both the tail and working yarn in the palm of your hand (photo 1). STEP 2: Move the tip of the needle upward through the loop

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around your thumb (photo 2). STEP 3: Move the tip of the needle downward through the

loop around your index finger (photo 3). STEP 4: Simultaneously, throw the thumb loop over the needle

(photo 4) and release the loop from your thumb (photo 5). STEP 5: Catch the tail with your thumb so it is once again

draped over your thumb and pull the yarn taut. Your hands and yarn should be in the starting position again (photo 6). Repeat Steps 2–5 until you have the desired number of stitches cast on. The side facing you as you cast on creates stitches below the needle that look like the bumps of a purl row (photo 7). The opposite side of the cast-on creates a flat smooth look (photo 8).

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W O R K I N G T H E R E V E R S E L O N G  TA I L C A S T  O N

Reverse Long-Tail Cast-On

The hands, needle and yarn position are the same for the Reverse Long-Tail Cast-On as they are for the Long-Tail Cast-On. This makes mixing of Reverse and regular Long-Tail Cast-Ons easy. STEP 1: Hold the needle in your right hand and drape the yarn

over your left hand, letting the tail lie over your thumb and the working yarn lie over your index finger. Hold both the tail and working yarn in the palm of your hand (photo 9). 9

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STEP 2: Move the tip of the needle upward through the loop

around your index finger (photo 10). STEP 3: Move the tip of the needle downward into the thumb

loop and catch the far edge of the loop (photo 11). STEP 4: Insert the needle downward into the index finger loop

(photo 12) and release the loop over the needle (photo 13). STEP 5: Catch the yarn with your index finger, pulling the yarn

taut. Your hands and yarn should once again be in the starting position (photo 14). Repeat Steps 2–5 until you have the desired number of stitches cast on. Photo 15 shows a k4, p4 mix of Long-Tail and Reverse Long-Tail Cast-Ons for a k4, p4 rib (photo 16). Because this is a mirror image of the Long-Tail Cast-On, the orientation of these cast-on sts is reversed. On the first row, they must be worked through the back of the stitch to orient them properly.

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TECH N IQUES

ON AND OFF

YARNOVER CAST-ON The Yarnover Cast-On produces an edge that looks like a single crochet chain. It also has the advantage of starting with just a 5-inch tail, eliminating the need to calculate the length of yarn needed to complete the cast-on. I used this cast-on for the Sleep Shades (page 75) so the bottom edge of the shades would have a chained edge and mirror the look of the knitwise bind-off along the top edge. This caston can also be used decoratively to add three-dimensional texture like the fringe in Fringe Headband (page 61). This cast-on requires a double-pointed needle (dpn) in addition to the project needle. Depending on how firm you want the chained edge, you may use a dpn the same size or a size smaller than the project needle. If you don’t have a dpn the correct size, you can use a regular needle, but it would be unnecessarily cumbersome since there are never more than two stitches at a time on the right-hand needle.

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STEP 1: Make a slipknot and place it on your project needle.

Hold the project needle in your left hand and the dpn in your right hand. STEP 2: Knit the slipknot, but do not slip it off the needle

(photo 1).

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STEP 3: Yarnover around the left-hand needle counterclock-

Since all yarnovers over the left-hand needle are made from back to front, the new stitches will be in the correct orientation. If you wrap the yarn around the left-hand needle clockwise, in the wrong direction, you’ll find your stitches in the wrong orientation.

wise (photo 2). STEP 4: Yarnover around the right-hand needle clockwise

(photo 3). STEP 5: Pass one stitch over the last yarnover on the right-hand

needle (photo 4). Repeat Steps 3–5. You may, or may not, choose to use the last stitch on the dpn as one of the cast-ons. If you do use it, then cast on until you are one stitch shy of the desired number on the left-hand needle; then slip the stitch from the dpn to the project needle. Otherwise, cast on the desired number of stitches (not including the stitch on the right-hand needle), and slip the remaining stitch on the dpn to the left-hand needle and work the first two stitches together on your first row.

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A P P L I E D TO A W O R K I N P RO G R E S S

When this cast-on is used within a work already in progress, simply begin by knitting into the next stitch on the left-hand needle, but do not slip that next stitch off the needle. Then cast on the full number of stitches specified in the pattern, counting the last stitch slipped from the right-hand to the left-hand needle.

Photo 5 shows a finished cast-on of ten stitches plus the last yarnover.

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AO- H AO-h, an acronym for Add On Half-twist, is technically the same as a Backward Loop (aka Backward E, E Wrap, or Half Hitch) Cast-On. Requiring just one needle, yarn, and a single finger, this is probably the simplest and first cast-on many of us learn. Unfortunately, it tends to be very loose and unkempt in appearance and isn’t the ideal cast-on for beginning your projects. However, it is a fabulous cast-on when used for adding on just a few stitches to a work-in-progress, because it can be made with either your left or right index finger, without the need to turn your work. And unlike a KCO (see page 166) or Cable Cast-On (see page 117), it will not distort adjacent stitches. This is also the only cast-on I use when adding “waste stitches” for the CAPS technique (see page 154). I call them waste stitches because their only purpose is to be worked together with an adjacent stitch, making it possible to add separate but continuous sections of knitting to a piece of work. The feature that makes this cast-on unstable and therefore inferior as a primary cast-on—minimal use of yarn per stitch—makes it perfect for the CAPS application because it minimizes any additional bulk during the decrease of the waste stitches. This cast-on is worked the same when being used to add stitches to a work-in-progress or to begin a project. Hold working needle in your left hand. Twist yarn clockwise around right index finger (photo 1), and insert left needle tip upward into the loop (photo 2).

AO-h

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AO-f

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AO-F The AO-f, an acronym for Add On Full-twist, is similar to the AO-h, and uses just one finger. Since the full twist uses more yarn, it is less flimsy than AO-h. To make an AO-f, twist the yarn clockwise around your index finger (photo 1), then move the needle tip backward under both strands (photo 3) and insert the needle downward into the loop (photo 4). Remove your finger from the loop and pull yarn to tighten stitch on left-hand needle.

You can also work these while holding the working needle in your right hand by mirroring the process. This makes it convenient when you’re adding on stitches in the middle of a row and don’t want to turn your work just for the cast-on. The stitches will be backward in this case, so when you work them, you will need to knit the stitches through the back. If you are using these as waste stitches for the CAPS technique, it doesn’t matter how they are oriented.

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TECH N IQUES

ON AND OFF

TUBULAR CAST-ON The tubular cast-on creates a terrific minimalist edge for K1, P1 ribs, and since both sides look the same, this cast-on is especially nice if the piece will be seen from both sides. It is also an appropriate and commonly-used cast-on for double knitting, where the knit stitches are used for one side of the double-knit fabric and the purl stitches for the opposing side. A finished row of tubular cast-on looks much like alternating knit and purl stitches (photo 14).

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There is more than one way to achieve a tubular cast-on, but the method included here does not require waste yarn and picking up stitches. This method, which I prefer, is similar in feel to a Long-Tail Cast-On. Since many of you are already familiar with the Long-Tail Cast-On, I think you’ll find this tubular method to be equally understandable.

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B E G I N N I N G W I T H A K N I T S T I TC H

Drape the tail over your thumb and the working yarn over index finger (photo 1). STEP 1: Point needle downward and along left side of

yarn spanning the thumb and index finger and rotate point of needle toward you under the thumb yarn (photo 2) and back to center (photo 3). This twist is the first stitch. STEP 2 (MAKE A PURL STITCH): As you start step 2, keep your

right index finger on the stitch to keep it properly situated on the needle. Move the tip of the needle away from you, over the finger yarn (photo 4) then under it (photo 5). Continue moving the point under the thumb yarn (photo 6) then over it, catching it (photo 7). Move the needle under the finger yarn (photo 8) then over it and back to the center starting position (photo 9).

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STEP 3 (MAKE A KNIT STITCH): Bring the tip of the needle

toward you over the top of the thumb yarn then under it (photo 10). Move the needle away from you over the finger yarn, catching it (photo 11); then bring the needle back under (photo 12) and over the thumb yarn, and back to its centered starting position (photo 13). 10

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Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until you have the desired number of stitches. Hold the last stitch secure until the first row is worked. Photo 15 shows a k1, p1 rib worked from a Tubular CO.

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B E G I N N I N G W I T H A P U R L S T I TC H

When we want our K1, P1 rib to start with a purl stitch rather than a knit, we just start the twist in the opposite direction. STEP 1: Point needle downward and along left side of yarn 12

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spanning the thumb and index finger and rotate point of needle away from you under the finger yarn and back to center. This twist is the first purl stitch. Next, work Step 3 for a knit stitch, followed by Step 2 for a purl stitch. Repeat Steps 3 and 2 until you have the desired number of stitches. Hold the last stitch secure until the first row is worked.

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TECH N IQUES

ON AND OFF

OPEN-TUBE CAST-ON If the name “Tubular Cast-On” hadn’t already been claimed, it would have been the perfect name for this cast-on. The OpenTube Cast-On is all about preparing stitches that will create an open ended tube worked by Tubular Knitting (see page 161). Stitches cast onto a single needle by this method are immediately ready to be worked back and forth to form an open tube without the worry of twisty stitches when connecting ends to work in the round. This method also eliminates the awkwardness of unruly multiple double-pointed needles when working the first few rounds that are unable to stretch comfortably around a circular needle. Structurally this cast-on is similar to the Backward Loop CastOn, but implementing it feels more like a simpler Long-Tail Cast-On. This cast-on creates a series of stitches on a single needle where alternating stitches do not interlock with each other. Like the Long-Tail Cast-On, the right-hand needle, which receives the cast-on stitches, moves back and forth between the thumb and the index finger. Unlike the Long-Tail Cast-On, which creates a single stitch at a time, the Open-Tube Cast-On creates two separate stitches after completing the process. STEP 1: SETTING UP THE FIRST TWO STITCHES. Allow for a long enough tail to cast on your stitches. Holding the needle in your right hand, carry the tail over the needle front to back (photo 1). Bring the tail to the front, wrap over the needle front to back, crossing the first wrap (photo 2). Insert left finger and thumb between the two strands, draping the tail over your thumb and the working yarn over your index finger (photo 3). Secure both yarn ends in the palm of your left hand (photo 4).

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STEP 2: Bring the needle forward, and insert the tip upward

through the loop around your thumb (photo 5). STEP 3: Move the tip of the needle away from you, over both

strands of the loop around your finger and insert the needle up through that loop (photo 6).

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STEP 4: Release the yarn loops from both thumb and finger (photo 7), and pull both ends downward together to tighten around the needle (photo 8).

Again, drape the tail and working yarn over your thumb and index finger, making sure that the yarn coming toward you drapes over the thumb, and the yarn going away from you drapes over your finger.

CABLE CAST-ON The Cable Cast-On is sturdier and less stretchy than the similarly worked Knit Cast-On (KCO). While the KCO creates new stitches by working into the last stitch on the left-hand needle, the Cable Cast-On creates new stitches by knitting in between the last two stitches on the left-hand needle. Work the following three steps for Cable CO:

Repeat Steps 2–4 for the desired number of stitches. Two stitches are created each time Steps 2–4 are worked.

STEP 1: Make a slipknot and place it on your needle.

Viewed from the bottom, this cast-on looks like a column of knitting (photo 9).

left-hand needle.

STEP 2: Knit into the slipknot and place the new stitch on the

STEP 3: Insert the right-hand needle between the last two

Photo 10 shows an Open-Tube CO being worked in Tubular Knitting (see page 161).

stitches (photo 1), draw up a loop (photo 2), and place the new stitch on the left-hand needle.

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Repeat Step 3 to continue casting on stitches. To keep stitches uniform and the cast-on stitches well spaced, I use my thumb as a spacer when placing a new stitch on the left-hand needle, until the loop has been tightened.

P RO V I S I O N A L O P E N  T U B E C A S T  O N

The four steps above can also be worked with waste yarn to create a provisional circular cast-on. When you are ready to remove the waste yarn, it will not unravel like a crochet provisional cast-on. It is easier to remove these cast-on stitches if you use a smooth, slick yarn that doesn’t grab onto the adjacent stitches as you pull it from the project yarn.

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TECH N IQUES

ON AND OFF

TURKISH CAST-ON (AKA EASTERN CAST- ON)

This is an easy double-edged cast-on using two needles that doesn’t require any fancy figure-eight wrapping around the needles. It is often used for toe-up socks and finger-down mittens because both sides of the cast-on can immediately be connected to work the toe and finger pockets in the round. I also use this cast-on provisionally for hems and casings (see page 150) because it doesn’t require stitches to be picked up when both edges of the hem or casing are ready to be worked together. But unlike the Crochet Provisional Cast-On that holds the provisional stitches on waste yarn, the stitches on the second needle of the Turkish Cast-On can unexpectedly slip off the second needle while they wait their turn to be knit. Point protectors on the ends of the needle can keep this from happening. I do find that if I’m not going to be using the provisional stitches until the very end of my project, I prefer using the Crochet Provisional Cast-On so I don’t have an extra needle hanging from my work the entire time. STEP 1: Hold two circular needles together in your left hand.

Make a slipknot and place it on the lower needle (photo 1). STEP 2: Wrap the yarn around both needles, from back to

front, moving forward over the top needle, until you have enough loops to equal half the total desired. For example, eight full wraps around both needles will make sixteen stitches—eight stitches on each needle. After the last round, bring the yarn between the needles to the front to hold it secure until you knit your first stitches. The slipknot is not counted as a stitch (photo 2).

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Pull the tip of the lower needle to the right so that only the cable is running through the loops (photo 3).

STEP 3:

STEP 4:

Knit the wraps on the upper needle.

Note: If you are using this as a provisional cast-on, do not work Step 5. If you are working the stitches on both needles in the round, work Step 5. Turn and pull the unworked needle that is now on top through until loops are back on the needle. Pull the lower needle through until the stitches are resting on the cable, and remove the slipknot (photo 4). Knit the loops on the upper needle.

STEP 5:

Most instructions and videos for Turkish cast-on have you work the following Steps 3 through 5 as part of the cast-on. But this is only appropriate if you will be connecting both needles to work in the round in Stockinette stitch. If you will not be working in the round, work only Steps 3 and 4 to keep the wraps from unraveling.

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CROCHET PROVISIONAL CAST-ON The Crochet Provisional Cast-On allows for a temporary set of stitches to be used to begin your knitting. These stitches are cast on with waste yarn that will later be removed and discarded. The best waste yarn to use is smooth, easy to pull out, and slightly finer than the yarn to be used for your project. With waste yarn, make a slipknot and insert a crochet hook into the loop.

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STEP 1: Hold the crochet hook to the right of a vertically held

knitting needle, with the working end of the yarn behind the knitting needle (photo 1). STEP 2: Reach with the crochet hook across the front of the

knitting needle and grab the yarn (photo 2). STEP 3: Pull the yarn through the loop on the crochet hook (photo 3). STEP 4: Move working end of the yarn over the tip of the knit-

ting needle to the back (photo 4). Repeat Steps 1–4 until you have one more stitch on the knitting needle than required for your project. This extra stitch is necessary to avoid losing a stitch when the waste yarn is later removed. Work a tail of six more crochet chains free of the knitting needle; cut the yarn, leaving approximately 3 inches to make a slipknot that will easily pull out later (photo 5). With your project yarn, either knit all stitches or purl all stitches for one row before starting your project. If you knit the first row, then k2tog at the side edge where the crochet tail is, to eliminate the extra stitch from the cast-on. If you purl the first row, then p2tog where the crochet tail is located. This locks in the edge stitch from the Provisional Cast-On. Do not begin working a rib or a pattern of mixed stitches immediately after the cast-on, or the waste yarn crochet will not freely pull away when you later try to remove it.

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R E M O V E T H E WA S T E Y A R N

Pull the slipknot from the end of the crochet chain and continue pulling until you reach the interlocked crochet and project stitches. Now work slowly and slip each project stitch onto a needle as it is released from the crochet chain (photo 6).

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TECH N IQUES

ON AND OFF

DOUBLE-LOOP CAST-ON

T UBULA R BIND-OFF

The Double-Loop Cast-On is the single-edged AO-h (page 113) turned into a double-edged, provisional cast-on (photo 3). This cast-on creates a small seamed edge on the wrong side (photo 4), making it less stretchy than other double-edged cast-ons. Like other provisional cast-ons, you can work both edges separately or connect them to work in the round. I used this cast-on for the Fancy Market Bag (page 39) so that the bottom would hold its shape with use.

The Tubular Bind-Off is visually compatible with the Tubular Cast-On (see page 114).

To work the Double-Loop Cast-On, simply hold two strands of yarn together and work the AO-h (photo 1). The pairs of loops on the needle will look just like the first row of a Speed Increase (page 127). To turn this into a provisional cast-on, divide the double-looped stitches onto separate needles (photo 2).

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Conceptually, this bind-off is the same as Kitchener stitch. Although Kitchener stitch grafts together two pieces of Stockinette stitch from two needles and Tubular Bind-Off binds off a K1, P1 Rib from a single needle, both are worked following these four steps: 1) slipping a knit stitch from a needle, 2) locking a knit stitch but leaving it on the needle, 3) slipping a purl stitch from a needle, 4) locking a purl stitch but leaving it on the needle. A stitch is slipped by running the tapestry needle (TN) through the stitch, then slipping the stitch off the needle. A stitch is locked when you run the TN needle through it, but do not slip it from the needle. Stitches are always slipped in their proper orientation—knit stitches are slipped knitwise and purl stitches are slipped purlwise. Stitches are locked in the direction opposite to their orientation—knit stitches are locked purlwise, and purl stitches are locked knitwise. The difference between the two is that Kitchener stitch is worked with purl stitches on a back needle and knit stitches on a front needle. Tubular Bind-Off is worked with alternating knits and purls on the same needle. Because the stitches for Tubular Bind-Off are all on the same needle, there is a little extra maneuvering of the TN to lock the purl stitch—back to front between the two edge stitches. The instructions below are written for a K1, P1 Rib that starts with a knit stitch. If you wish to work the Tubular Bind-Off starting with a purl stitch, begin with Steps 2–4, then work Steps 1–4 for all the repeats.

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WORK TUBULAR BIND  OFF

Cut yarn, leaving a tail about 3 times as long as the area you’re binding off. Thread a TN with the tail. STEP 1: Slip a knit: Insert TN into the next stitch (a knit st) and

slip the stitch off the needle (photo 1). Do not pull the yarn through the slipped loop. STEP 2: Lock a knit: Skip the purl stitch and insert TN purlwise

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into the next knit stitch (photo 2) and pull the yarn through toward the left (photo 3). STEP 3: Slip a purl: Working the purl stitch skipped in step 2,

insert TN purlwise into the next stitch (photo 4) and slip it off the needle. Pull the yarn through the slipped stitch toward the back. STEP 4: Lock a purl: Insert TN from back to front between the

next two sts (photo 5) and then knitwise into the purl stitch to the left of the TN (photo 6). Pull the yarn through to the back. Repeat Steps 1–4 until two stitches remain. Slip the first stitch knitwise and off the needle, then slip the last stitch purlwise and off. See photo 7 for a finished Tubular Bind-Off.

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TECH N IQUES

ON AND OFF

THREE-NEEDLE BIND-OFF

K ITCHENER ST ITCH

Three-Needle Bind-Off attaches two pieces together as they are both bound off. This bind-off does not have the stretch that a graft has, but if done loosely, or with a needle one size larger than the needle used to knit your project, it does eliminate some of the tightness often associated with seams that are sewn together. It produces a noticeable, but very clean line on the outside (photo 4).

This is an extremely useful and versatile graft that I think has received some undeserved bad press. But with some understanding of the process, you can be freed from the memorization and constant referral to written directions that plague many knitters.

STEP 1: Hold pieces, parallel, together in your left hand. There

will be a front needle and a back needle. To keep the bind-off edge to the inside of your project, hold right sides together (photo 1). STEP 2: Knit into the first stitch on both needles at the same

time (photo 2). STEP 3: Repeat Step 2, so there are two stitches on the right-

hand needle. Pick up the first stitch and pass it over the second stitch to bind off. One stitch will remain on the right-hand needle. Repeat Step 3 until both pieces are joined and one stitch remains on the right-hand needle. Cut yarn and pull through last stitch to secure (photo 3).

There are only two moves made on the front needle, followed by two moves made on the back needle, repeatedly—slip one stitch and lock one stitch on the front needle, then slip one stitch and lock one stitch on the back needle. All stitches on the front needle are knits, which are slipped knitwise in their proper orientation and locked purlwise in the opposite orientation. The stitches facing you on the back needle are all purls. They too are slipped in their proper orientation, purlwise, and are locked in the opposite direction, knitwise. Cut working yarn, leaving enough to work another row, and thread it onto a tapestry needle (TN). Hold the needles parallel to each other with purl sides facing each other. On the front needle, all knit stitches are facing you, and on the back needle, all purl stitches face you. STEP 1: With TN, slip the first knit stitch knitwise off the front

needle. STEP 2: To lock the next stitch, run the TN through the next knit

stitch purlwise and leave it on the needle. STEP 3: With TN, slip the purl stitch off the back needle purlwise. STEP 4: To lock the next stitch on the back needle, run the

TN through the next stitch knitwise and leave it on the needle. 1

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Repeat Steps 1–4 until there is only one stitch left on each needle. They have already been locked, so you can just slip them off their needles and pull the yarn to tighten them. Kitchener stitch is used in the Divided Rib Graft (page 123) and for closing the bottoms of Folded Bags (page 82) into various shapes. 3

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D I VI D E D R I B G R A F T This graft subtly pulls in the width of two rib pieces when joined, and reduces future widthwise stretching with use. I used this graft to join the two rib sections at the top of the Simple Hat (page 36), so that the front and back sections of rib would appear to be one continuous section, narrowing slightly at the top. This graft was also used to connect the ends of Fringed Cable Cowl (page 86) to eliminate a seamed look that would occur if using a Three-Needle Bind-Off. I also used this graft in the Simple Fold Cowl (page 80) to eliminate a wrong-side seam that could show when the cowl is twisted around the neck. Structurally, this graft is Kitchener stitch worked in two passes. It begins by dividing the rib of each piece onto two separate needles (photo 1)—so you will need four double-pointed needles (dpn) to work the graft.

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Cut the yarn connected to each piece, leaving a tail that is four times the length of the finished piece. Even though both sides are worked exactly the same, I find a slight difference in their finished appearance. It may work differently for you, but I find I prefer the look of the first side I work. 5 STEP 1: Hold two empty dpns in your right hand and one

of the rib pieces in your left hand. Divide the stitches on the left-hand needle onto the two needles in your right hand (see Divide Rib Stitches, page 137). Repeat for remaining piece to be joined (photo 1). STEP 2: Working with what will be the outside of your project

facing you, hold needles of both pieces together with knit stitches facing outward (photo 2). STEP 3: Thread the tapestry needle onto the tail connected

to the first edge stitch. Work Kitchener stitch (see page 122) across both these needles (photo 3). STEP 4: Turn to the opposite side so the two remaining nee-

dles are facing you (photo 4). STEP 5: Repeat Step 3 for this side (photo 5).

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TECH N IQUES

ADD AN D SUBTRACT

nce we feel competent working a cast-on, a bind-off, and the knit and purl stitches, the next logical techniques to add to our repertoire are an increase and a decrease. It is certainly possible to create shapes without a single increase or decrease, by adjusting stitch counts with cast-ons and bind-offs, or altering widths with cables and stitch patterns, but when shaping garments, increases and decreases will most often be the method of choice.

The first increase many of us learn is to knit into the front and back of the same stitch (k1-f/b). This increase looks similar to a knit stitch followed by a purl stitch, so it is useful when you wish to work a k1, p1 rib at the end of a top-down Stockinette stitch garment. If you incorporate these increases into the row just before the rib begins, you can work a rib in the same size needle as the main project without gathering in the fabric. I used this in the My Tie Cardigan (page 99) because I wanted a simple rib band that would continue at the same width as the Stockinette stitch body. K1-F/B (KNIT FRONT AND BACK): Knit into next stitch, then knit

into the back of the same stitch before sliding the stitch off the left-hand needle. On the right-hand needle, the two new stitches look similar to a knit stitch followed by a purl stitch. We don’t usually think about k1-f/b having a mirrored counterpart, but working pk-b/f creates an increase that looks similar to a purl stitch followed by a knit. PK-B/F (PURL BACK AND KNIT FRONT): Purl the next stitch through the back of the loop, then knit into the front of the same stitch.

The k1-f/b and pk-b/f increases do not have a left or right slope like most mirrored increases, but when aligned on every other row they can still create a very simple decorative line, similar to paired leaning increases. 126 LEANING INCREASES 127 SPEED INCREASE 130 YARNOVER INCREASE 131 LEANING DECREASES 132 CENTERED DOUBLE DECREASE 132 MULTIPLE-LAYER DECREASES

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MY TIE CARDIGAN (K1-F/B)

RIPPLE VEST (SPEED INCREASE) S I M P L E H AT ( L E A N I N G D E C R E A S E S )

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TECH N IQUES

ADD AND SUBTRACT

L E AN I N G I N C R E A SE S

Lifted Increases

Leaning increases, which have either a left or right slope, are typically paired opposite each other to provide symmetry.

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LIFTED INCREASES

Lifted increases are made from an adjacent stitch—either the next stitch on the left-hand needle, Right Lifted Increase (RLI), or the previously worked stitch on the right-hand needle, Left Lifted Increase (LLI).

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RLI: With the right-hand needle, pick up the stitch below the next stitch (photo 1), put it on the left-hand needle and knit it. These increases are right-leaning, and when repeated directly above previous RLI’s, the knitting appears to grow out from the stitches on their left (photo 2). LLI: With the left-hand needle, pick up the second stitch below the previous stitch on the right-hand needle (photo 3) and knit it through the front. These increases are left-leaning, and when repeated directly above previous LLI’s, the knitting appears to grow out from the stitches on their right (photo 4).

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Make One Increases

MAKE ONE INCREASES

These increases are made from the strand that connects the last stitch on the right-hand needle and the next stitch on the left-hand needle. M1-L : With the left-hand needle, from the front pick up the strand between the two needles (photo 5) and knit it through the back, twisting the picked-up strand. These increases are left-leaning, and when repeated directly above previous M1-L’s, the knitting appears to grow out from the stitches on their right (photo 6).

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M1-P-L : This increase is worked the same as M1-L, but the new stitch is purled rather than knit. M1-R: With the left-hand needle, from the back pick up the

strand between the two needles (photo 7) and knit it through the front, twisting the picked-up strand. These increases are right-leaning, and when repeated directly above previous M1-R’s, the knitting appears to grow out from the stitches on their left (photo 8). M1-P-R: This increase is worked the same as M1-R, but the

new stitch is purled rather than knit.

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S P E E D I N C R E A SE

Speed Increase

The speed increase makes it possible to double your stitches with the least visual disturbance to your knitting. I used this increase for the first time in the Ruche Hat and Cowl (page 72) to produce a continuously flowing ruched Stockinette stitch. Speed Increase is worked over two rows—one row creates pairs of doubled-looped stitches and the second row works each loop individually. 1 ROW 1: Hold two strands of yarn together and knit across the

stitches you wish to double. This may be an entire row or just a group of stitches within the row. This row can also be worked from the purl side of Stockinette stitch, with two strands held together as you purl across the stitches (photo 1).

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Dividing Loops for Two Layers

ROW 2: Work each loop individually, purling them if the first row was knit, or knitting each loop if the first row was purled (photo 2).

This increase is also used in My Tie Cardigan (page 99) to double stitches after the casing, and for the curled cuff of the Mer Mittens (page 32).

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A D D I N G L AY E R S W I T H T H E S P E E D I N C R E A S E

The Speed Increase can also be used to create a second set of stitches that are separated onto a second needle to create a three-dimensional shape. I did this to create the pockets in the Warm Hands Scarf (page 18). To create two layers, work Row 1 of the Speed Increase but eliminate Row 2. Then divide the loops onto separate needles. DIVIDING THE LOOPS: Holding two needles in your right

hand, slip one loop onto the back needle (photo 3), and the remaining loop of the pair onto the front needle. You may change the order and slip to the front needle first— whichever is easiest—but be sure to divide the paired loop between the two needles and never slip both strands of a pair to the same needle.

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TECH N IQUES

ADD AND SUBTRACT

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D I F F E R E N T  C O L O R E D L AY E R S

A new layer can differ from the main layer by holding a contrasting color (CC) yarn together with the main color (MC) when working Row 1 (photo 4). Always work Row 1 as a purl row when working with two colors. Doing so allows you to divide the loops with the knit side facing, making it easier to separate the different colored loops. The two-color Speed Increase was used to add the upper portion of Ripple Vest (page 44) to the body, and to add the contrasting-colored wrap in the Warm Hands Scarf (page 18). Different-Colored Layers

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Ripple Vest (page 44)

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SEPARATING LOOPS OF DIFFERENT COLORS: When two yarns are held together to create paired loops, the two colors sometimes twist around each other. In photo 4, notice that in each pair, the CC is either to the right or to the left of the MC, therefore you will need to work the appropriate Step 2.

Separating Loops of Different Colors

STEP 1: Hold two empty needles in your right hand to catch

the divided loops. STEP 2: CC IS TO THE LEFT OF MC: Insert the back needle through the MC loop toward the front (photo 5), then insert it knitwise into the CC loop, pulling the CC loop onto the back needle (photo 6). Slip the MC loop purlwise to the front needle.

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STEP 2: CC IS TO THE RIGHT OF MC: Slip CC to the back needle.

Slip the MC to the front needle. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all looped pairs have been separated (photo 7). Photo 8 shows CC and MC worked as separate attached layers. On the first row after CC loops are separated from MC loops, CC stitches that were to the left of the MC will be twisted. Work them through the back of the loop to orient them properly.

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TECH N IQUES

ADD AND SUBTRACT

YAR N OV E R I N C R E A SE The Yarnover Increase is a looser version of the common M1-L (see Abbreviations, page 166) in which new stitches are created from the connecting strand between two stitches. Both of these increases allow the new stitch to stand independently from adjacent stitches. I used the Yarnover Increase in Rocking Rib Wrap (page 88) and Fancy Market Bag (page 39) to create new, clearly distinct sections from vertically aligned increases. The additional length of yarn from the yarnover prevents the newly made stitch from pulling on adjacent stitches.

Working Second Row of Yarnover Increase

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Whereas a M1 is completed in one row, yarnover increases are worked over two rows. One row makes the yarnover and the following row knits or purls it with a twist. If the yarnover is not knit with a twist, the new stitch will create a hole. To make a yarnover before a knit stitch, start with the yarn in front and carry the yarn over the right-hand needle to knit the next stitch. To make a yarnover before a purl stitch, wrap the yarn over the top of the right-hand needle and back to the front between both needles before you purl the next stitch. On the next row, when you reach the yarnover, look for the trailing leg of the loop. You need to recognize when the trailing leg is in front or in back. You will always knit or purl into the trailing leg in order to close the yarnover by twisting the yarnover loop as you work it. The following photos show yarnovers worked on the purl side. When the trailing leg is in front (photo 1), purl into the front (photo 2). When the trailing leg is in back (photo 3), purl into the back (photo 4). Knit side yarnovers are worked the same way—knit into the trailing leg.

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A yarnover increase has the same structure as the M1 (Make One, page 166). The increase is made by twisting the connecting strand between two consecutive stitches. The M1 is tighter because it lacks the extra length of yarn that a yarnover supplies. The yarnover increase is good to use with rib stitch patterns, and will not distort or pull on stitches that are adjacent to it (photo 5). Because the M1 is tighter and will leave less of a gap at the base of the increase, it is preferable for Stockinette stitch.

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L E AN I N G D E C R E A SE S Leaning single-stitch decreases are made by merging two side-by-side stitches into one. The stitch on the right is pulled to the left, and the stitch on the left is pulled to the right, and whichever ends up on top determines the slope of the finished decrease. The k2tog (knit two together) places the leftmost stitch of the pair on top, creating a right-leaning decrease. The ssk (slip, slip, knit) places the rightmost stitch on top, creating a decrease that leans left. Leaning decreases with opposing slopes are typically paired opposite each other to provide symmetry to a design.

K2tog, P2tog

Ssk, Ssp

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K2TOG: Insert the right-hand needle knitwise into the next two stitches and knit them together. This single-stitch decrease has a right-leaning slope. To keep decreases aligned, always work to 2 sts before a marker, then k2tog (photo 1). P2TOG: Insert the right-hand needle purlwise into the next two

stitches and purl them together. On the knit side of the fabric, the second stitch of the decreasing pair will appear on top of the first, creating a right-leaning decrease that matches the k2tog. To keep the decreases aligned, always work the p2tog on the two stitches after a marker. (photo 1). SSK: Slip two stitches knitwise, one at a time to the right-hand

needle. Insert the tip of the left-hand needle through the front of both slipped stitches and knit them together. This one-stitch decrease has a left-leaning slope. Always work ssk on the two stitches after a marker to keep the decreases aligned (photo 2). SSP: Slip two stitches knitwise, one at a time, to the right-hand

needle; return them to the left-hand needle in their new orientation. Insert the tip of the right-hand needle through the back of both slipped stitches and purl them together. From the knit side, the first stitch of the decreasing pair will appear on top and the decrease will have a left slope that matches the ssk. To keep this decrease aligned, always work to two stitches before a marker, then ssp (photo 2).

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TECH N IQUES

ADD AND SUBTRACT

CE N TE RE D D O U B L E D E C R E A SE ( C DD)

MULT IPLE-LAY ER DECREA SES

This is a decrease that eliminates two stitches without creating a left or right slope. To work a CDD, slip two stitches knitwise at the same time onto the right-hand needle. Knit the next stitch, then pass the two slipped stitches over it and off the needle (photo 1).

Layers in knitting may be created when attaching two completely separate pieces with one overlaying the other, or when making folds and pleats (see page 138) within a single piece. To merge the separate layers, or to secure folds or pleats in place, multiple-layer decreases are used to combine the stitches from the multiple needles onto one needle.

Slipping the two stitches together switches their positions. If you instead slip the two stitches separately, you will still decrease two stitches, but it will be left-leaning and not a centered decrease (photo 2).

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The multilayer decreases, k2tog-2n, p2tog-2n and ssk-2n, are used to merge stitches from two needles. These -2n decreases do not have the right- or left-leaning slope that their singleneedle counterparts have. The slope of single-needle decreases is created by a sideways pull when they are merged into a single stitch–but multiple layers are stacked one on top of the other before they are merged, eliminating the sideways pull. Therefore, multiple-layer decreases stand vertically, just like a regular knit or purl stitch. Which of the –2n decreases to use depends on the stitch pattern on the front, or top layer needle. For example, if the top layer is a k1, p1 rib, then you would combine the two needles using k2tog-2n and p2tog-2n alternately. Since there is no left or right slope when merging two needles, I use the k2tog-2n almost exclusively. I made an exception in the Rolling Tucks Stitch Pattern (page 147), where I found that the ssk-2n created a cleaner finish on the left edge of the fabric. DD-3n is a three-needle decrease used to merge three layers onto a single needle, such as when making pleats (Folded Horizontal Pleats, page 141). When used to combine stitches from three layers, one stitch is slipped from each of the top two layers, and then both are passed over a stitch knit from the back needle.

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K2TOG-2N: Insert the right-hand needle knitwise into the next stitch on the front and back needles (photo 1) and knit them together.

K2tog-2n

P2tog-2n

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P2TOG-2N: Insert the right-hand needle purlwise into the

next stitch on the back and front needles (photo 2) and knit them together. SSK-2N: Slip one stitch knitwise from the front needle (photo 3)

and one stitch from the back needle (photo 4) to the right-hand needle. Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the fronts of both slipped stitches (photo 5) and knit them together.

Ssk-2n

DD-3N: Slip 1 from the front needle, slip 1 from the second

needle, k1 from the third needle (photo 6), then pass the slipped stitches over the knit stitch. Photo 7 shows a complete row of three merged layers.

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TECH N IQUES

TH REE-DIME NSIONAL KN ITTI NG

hree-dimensional knitting creates a structure or a fabric that has actual depth beyond the thickness of a single layer of the yarn. To me, there is an important distinction between simply piecing together three-dimensional objects and the action of knitting threedimensionally. For example, the vertically aligned flaps in Layered Units on the Edge (page 155) is visually similar to Flapper, a scarf in Knitting New Scarves; but the former is knit three-dimensionally with one continuous strand of yarn, while the latter was created by joining separately knit flaps to produce its three-dimensional shape.

Cables are often the first three-dimensional knitting any of us do—amazing us with their fundamental simplicity as we lift sections of stitches from the fabric and move them to nearby locations. They are more than just illusions. The movement is real, and once we grasp their concept, the patterns seems boundless. Conceptually similar to cables, dividing (see Divide Stitches, page 137) and combining (see Combine Stitches, page 136) can be another way of separating selected stitches from the main fabric, then reincorporating them to create three-dimensional shaping. Used together, these techniques can either work functionally, as with the pockets of Warm Hands Scarf (page 18), or decoratively, as for the dimples in Dimpled Cowl (page 94). Three-dimensional knitting also includes functional shaping through the use of short rows—adding curves to a sweater for a variety of feminine shapes, or creating the cupped heel of a sock. Short-row techniques take the two-dimensional combination of width and length as stitches and rows, and add a third dimension of depth for containment and shape. 136 COMBINE STITCHES 137 DIVIDE STITCHES 138 PLEATS 148 SHORT ROWS 150 HEMS AND CASINGS

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T I L D A H AT ( S H O RT R OW S ) D I M P L E D C OW L ( D I V I D E S T I TC H E S )

S TA C K E D N E C K L A C E ( C O M B I N E S T I TC H E S )

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TECH N IQUES

THREEDIMENSIONAL KNITTING

CO M BIN E ST I TC H E S This is the process of working stitches from multiple needles held parallel in the left hand onto a single needle in the right hand. The most familiar use of this technique is probably the Three-Needle Bind-Off (page 122), which I used in Open Toes (page 48) and Sleep Shades (75). When not used as a bindoff, it can create tucks and Pleats (see page 138); facilitate threedimensional shaping (Stacked Necklace, page 30); Fringed Cable Cowl, page 86); or when one of the left-hand needles holds stitches from a provisional cast-on, it can also be used to make Hems and Casings (page 150). As stitches are worked from the left-hand needles to the right, their total count can be reduced by half by using Multiple-Layer Decreases (page 132) to work one stitch from both needles together. Stitches on the left-hand needles can also be worked independently without any decreasing of the overall stitch count. Another option is to work stitches on the left-hand needles in a combination of decreases and independently. I used the last option when closing the hem in Dimpled Cowl (page 94) in order to reach the desired number of stitches for the dimple pattern. Stitches can be combined as Stockinette stitch, or any pattern of mixed knit and purl stitches. To create an undetectable merge when combining needles stitch-for-stitch from the left-hand needles, work the stitch from each needle together matching the stitch on the right side (RS) needle. If the stitch on the RS needle is a knit, then knit together one stitch from each needle. If the RS stitch is a purl, then purl both stitches together.

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C O M B I N E S T I TC H E S W I T H O U T D E C R E A S I N G

The following sample combines two needles with an equal number of stitches worked in Stockinette stitch into a K1, P1 Rib on one needle. Each of the stitches on both needles is worked separately, so there is no reduction of stitches from either needle. STEP 1: Hold both needles together in your left hand with knit side facing on front needle and purl side facing on back needle. STEP 2: K1 from the front needle (photo 1). STEP 3: P1 from the back needle (photo 2). Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until all of the stitches are combined on one needle in a K1, P1 Rib (photo 3).

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Combine Stitches without Decreasing

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Combine Stitches by Decreasing

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C O M B I N E S T I TC H E S B Y D E C R E A S I N G

The following sample combines a K1, P1 Rib from two needles by working one st from each needle together (see K2tog-2n and P2tog-2n, page 133). The needles in the following sample each hold 20 sts [40 sts total on both needles]. STEP 1: Hold the second needle behind the first needle in your left hand (photo 4). STEP 2: K2tog-2n. STEP 3: P2tog-2n. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until all of the stitches are combined— 20 sts remain (photo 5).

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D I VI D E ST I TC H E S This technique separates stitches from the left-hand needle onto two needles held in the right hand in order to work them separately. Unless otherwise specified in a pattern, stitches are always slipped first to the front needle, then to the back needle. I used Divide Stitches to work the Divided Rib Graft (page 123) when completing the Simple Hat (page 36) and Fringed Cable Cowl (page 86). The Divide Stitches technique is also used in Warm Hands Scarf (page 18) and Ripple Vest (page 44) to separate stitches from a Speed Increase (page 127) into two separate layers.

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Divide a K1, P1 Rib

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Starting a Pocket with Divide Stitches

DIVIDE A K1, P1 RIB

Hold knitting in your left hand and two empty needles parallel to each other in your right hand. Slip the next knit stitch onto the front needle (photo 1). Slip the next purl st onto the back needle (photo 2). Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until stitches on the left-hand needle are divided onto two needles.

STEP 1: STEP 2:

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Other rib patterns are divided in the same way as the K1, P1 Rib. Slip all knit stitches to the front needle and all purl stitches to the back needle.

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S TA RT I N G A P O C K E T W I T H D I V I D E S T I TC H E S

To work the hidden pocket shown in photo 6, divide rib stitches for the desired width of the pocket after the rib is complete (photo 3). Knit across the front dpn and next needle (photo 4). Attach a separate strand of yarn to the stitches on the back needle for the inside of the pocket, and work them in Stockinette stitch to the desired pocket length (photo 5). Once you have completed the inside of the pocket, leave those stitches on a dpn and work the main garment until the front (outside) of the pocket is the same length as the inner pocket, joining the side edges of the inner pocket to the main garment on every row by working one stitch from the main garment together with one stitch picked up from the side edge of the inner pocket. When working the stitches together on wrongside rows, work ssp (page 131) to join the pieces. When the outside of the pocket is the same length as the inner pocket, bind off the outside pocket stitches on the next right-side row, and work across the inner pocket stitches when you come to them on the following wrong-side row.

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TECH N IQUES

THREEDIMENSIONAL KNITTING

P L E ATS Pleat techniques generally fall into either of two categories— folded or pulled. Most create the pleat shape on a row at the end of a finished length of fabric. Two exceptions are the Vertical Traveling Pleat and the Upward Pleat, which require the pleat fold to be made prior to knitting the pleated fabric. Wave Headband (page 62) and Hooded Cowl (page 26) use the Vertical Traveling Pleat technique. The Folded Bags (page 82) use Tube Pleats. For all of the pleat styles included in this chapter, there is an explanation of the pleat followed by a small sample to work.

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V E RT I C A L P L E AT F RO M A F O L D

This sample places a 6-stitch pleat in the center of a 14-stitch background. With the straight needles, CO 20 sts. Purl one row and knit one row. SET-UP FOLD ROW 1 (WS): P7, [slip next 3 sts onto an empty dpn] twice (photo 1); skipping the two dpns, p7 on the next needle (photo 2). Photo 3 shows the needle setup viewed from the RS. Vertical Pleat from a Fold

138 VERTICAL TRAVELING PLEATS 141 FOLDED HORIZONTAL PLEATS 143 PULLED HORIZONTAL PLEATS 144 TUCK PLEATS 146 TUBE PLEATS 146 STITCH PATTERNS THAT UTILIZE PLEATS

V ERTICAL TR AVE LI N G P LE ATS Vertical traveling pleats are composed of pleat stitches and the background from which they extend outward. The stitches that make up the pleats are always worked twice on every right-side (RS) row, while all other stitches on the needle are only worked once. To maintain an equal number of pleat rows to background rows, only the background stitches are worked every wrong-side row, allowing the background length to catch up to the pleat.

Vertical pleats can begin either of two ways—by folding existing stitches on the needle, or by casting on an extension. Visually the two beginnings are very different, so the choice of which to use is an aesthetic one. The folded beginning creates a pleat that grows seamlessly from the main fabric, while the extension creates a sharp perpendicular edge.

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The easiest way to understand vertical pleats is to knit a small sample. You will need two short straight needles and 2 dpns that are an appropriate size for your yarn.

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Vertical Pleat from a Fold (continued)

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SET-UP FOLD ROW 2 (RS): K7, hold both dpns together (photo 4), with working needle [k1 from front dpn, p1 from back dpn] 3 times to work pleat sts (photo 5); with an empty dpn, slip 1 knitwise (photo 6), p1, [k1, p1] twice to work pleat sts a second time (photo 7), k7 from next needle (photo 8). ROW 1 (WS): P7, leave the 6 pleat sts unworked on the dpn, p7 from next needle (photo 9). ROW 2 (RS): K7, work pleat sts: [K1, p1] 3 times (photo 5); with empty dpn, slip 1 knitwise, p1, [k1, p1] twice (photo 7), k7 from next needle (photo 8). Repeat Rows 1 and 2 to continue working the vertical pleat.

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V E RT I C A L P L E AT F RO M A N E X T E N S I O N

This sample places a 6-stitch pleat in the center of a 14-stitch background. CO 14 sts and work an inch in Stockinette stitch, ending with a purl (WS) row.

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Vertical Pleat from an Extension

K7, turn and AO-f 6 sts (photo 10), with an empty dpn, slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, turn, k7 from next needle (photo 11).

SET-UP EXTENSION ROW (RS):

From here on, the vertical pleat is worked the same as the sample that began with a fold. Work Row 1 and Row 2 above (photo 12). 10

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TECH N IQUES

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THREEDIMENSIONAL KNITTING

S H I F T I N G V E RT I C A L P L E AT S

Shifting Vertical Pleats

Once you understand the concept of vertical pleats, shifting them across the background is easy. The sample (photo 1) makes a Right Shift every fourth row until it is three stitches from the right edge, then it works vertically for 4 rows before it begins a Left Shift every RS row. The following directions are written generically, leaving the decision up to you as to which direction and how fast to move the pleat. After either of the Right Shift or Left Shift Rows, work a Pleat Row (WS). To shift pleats quickly across the background at a steep angle, work a shift every RS row. To shift them more slowly, work extra WS and RS rows in between, always ending with a WS row. RIGHT SHIFT (RS): Knit to 1 st before pleat (photo 2), work pleat sts: [K1, p1] 3 times (photo 3); with empty dpn work pleat sts: Slip 1 knitwise, p1, [k1, p1] twice (photo 4), knit to end of next needle. Return to working Row 1 and 2 until you wish to make another shift.

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LEFT SHIFT (RS): Knit to 1 st past pleat (photo 5), work pleat

sts: [K1, p1] 3 times; with empty dpn, work pleat sts: Slip 1 knitwise, p1, [k1, p1] twice, knit to end of next needle. Return to working Row 1 and 2 until you wish to make another shift.

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WS PLEAT ROW: Purl to pleat, leaving the 6 pleat sts unworked on the dpn, purl to end of next needle. RS NON-SHIFT PLEAT ROW: Knit to pleat, work pleat sts:

[K1, p1] 3 times; with empty dpn, work pleat sts: Slip 1 knitwise, p1, [k1, p1] twice, knit to end of next needle. Vertical pleats can be altered by changing the number of pleat stitches to make smaller or larger pleats, and by changing the stitch pattern used for the pleats and the background. If you choose to work the entire piece—both pleats and background—in K1, P1 Rib as I did with Drifting Pleats in Knitting New Scarves, begin a Right Shift two stitches before the pleat and a left shift two stitches after the pleat. The pleats and background will be unified without a break from the K1, P1 Rib across each row.

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F OLDED HOR I Z ON TAL P LE ATS These pleats are made at the end of a length of fabric, by separating two consecutive groups of stitches onto dpns and folding them, either behind or in front of stitches on the main needle. Once the two dpns are in their proper position, a stitch from each layer of the pleat is joined together with a double decrease (DD-3n, page 133) to secure the shape of the pleat.

The following three samples all begin by casting on 23 sts and working in Stockinette stitch for one inch. When you are finished with a sample, you can simply pull the needles out and use the same knitting for the next sample.

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Sample Right Pleat

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R I G H T P L E AT

SAMPLE RIGHT PLEAT, 5-STITCH WIDTH

CO 23 sts and work in Stockinette stitch for one inch, ending with a purl row. K4 (up to the beginning of the pleat), [slip next 5 sts onto an empty dpn] twice (photo 1), rotate second dpn counterclockwise and hold behind next needle (photo 2) and rotate first dpn clockwise and hold behind second dpn (photo 3). With working needle, [DD-3n] 5 times, k4 (photo 4).

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Sample Left Pleat

L E F T P L E AT

SAMPLE LEFT PLEAT, 5-STITCH WIDTH

CO 23 sts and work in stockinette stitch for one inch, ending with a purl row.

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K4, (up to the pleat), [slip next 5 sts onto an empty dpn] twice (photo 1), rotate second dpn clockwise and hold in front of next needle (photo 5), hold first dpn in front of second dpn (photo 6). With working needle, [DD-3n] 5 times, k4 (photo 7).

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TECH N IQUES

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THREEDIMENSIONAL KNITTING

B OX P L E AT

Sample Box Pleat

A box pleat is just a right pleat immediately followed by a left pleat. This places the box on the outside (photo 4). The number of stitches needed for a box pleat is the number of finished pleat stitches times three. For the box pleat sample that follows, I needed 18 stitches to work the 6-stitch box pleat. SAMPLE BOX PLEAT

CO 23 sts and work in Stockinette stitch for one inch, ending with a purl row. K3, [slip next 3 sts onto an empty dpn] twice, slip next 6 sts onto an empty dpn, arrange the needles for a right pleat, slip next 3 sts onto an empty dpn (photo 1) and rotate it clockwise to slip these 3 sts onto the second dpn in your right hand (photo 2). Slip the next 3 sts onto the third needle in your right hand (photo 3). Combine the three layers: With working needle, [DD-3n] 6 times, k2 (photo 4).

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I N V E RT E D P L E AT

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Inverted Pleat

An inverted pleat places a box pleat on the inside, with a slit on the outer side of the knitting (photo 5). To work an inverted pleat, change the directional order of the Box Pleat and make a left pleat immediately followed by a right pleat.

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PULLED HOR I ZON TAL P LE ATS The most basic of pleats, pulled pleats do not rely on any folding. Typically used as a design element in garments, these simple pleats can also be used to create interesting textured stitch patterns (see Pulled Cables, page 146).

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B A S I C R I G H T P U L L E D P L E AT

CO 20 sts and work in Stockinette stitch for one inch, ending with a purl row. K4 (up to the beginning of the pleat), slip next 6 sts onto an empty dpn, hold dpn in back of next needle (photo 1). With working needle [k2tog-2n] 6 times, k4 (photo 2).

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Basic Right Pulled Pleat

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Basic Left Pulled Pleat

B A S I C L E F T P U L L E D P L E AT

CO 20 sts and work in Stockinette stitch for one inch, ending with a purl row. K4 (up to the beginning of the pleat), slip next 6 sts onto an empty dpn, hold dpn in front of next needle (photo 3). With working needle [K2tog-2n] 6 times, k4 (photo 4).

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U N R E D U C E D P U L L E D P L E AT S

No decreases are made in the creation of these pleats. Each stitch is knit individually when combining stitches from the dpn and main needle. For an unreduced left pulled pleat, hold the dpn with the slipped stitches in front on the next needle: [K1 from back needle, k1 from front needle] until all sts from the dpn have been worked. For an unreduced right pulled pleat, hold the dpn with the slipped stitches in back of the next needle: [K1 from front needle, k1 from back needle] until all sts from the dpn have been worked. The Pulled Cables Stitch Pattern (page 146) is worked using unreduced pulled pleats.

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TECH N IQUES

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THREEDIMENSIONAL KNITTING

U P WA R D  P U L L E D P L E AT S

Contrary to all other pulled pleats, the shape of this one is established before the pleated fabric is knit. This makes it possible when knitting top-down garments to easily add pleats to the cuffs or hem of the sweater. The trick is to double the number of stitches on the first row without stretching the fabric, which is accomplished with the use of the Speed Increase. Once the doubled stitches are separated onto two needles, they can be knit in groups between the two needles to create the pulled pleats (see Adding Layers with the Speed Increase, page 127). When working upward pleats over a large number of stitches, use circular needles. Their flexibility makes it easier to knit back and forth between the two needles. UPWARD-PULLED PLEAT SAMPLE

CO 24 sts and [purl 1 row, knit 1 row] twice.

T U C K P L EATS There are endless opinions among both knitters and stitchers as to whether a tuck is a pleat or a pleat is a tuck, and how the two shall meet. I will forego adding my two-cent definition and simply say that the techniques in this section create rolls and folds of different sizes that stretch horizontally across the fabric by either pulling up stitches from below or pulling down stitches from above.

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PULLEDUP TUCKS

The pulled-up method picks up stitches from an earlier row and works them together with the current stitches on the needle. Pulling up fabric from below will shorten the length of knitting below the tuck. Worked across all stitches, they create a barreled horizontal tube (photo 7 on page 145). Smaller tucks, worked multiple times and spaced across a row, create a rippled effect (photo 3, below).

UPWARD-PULLED PLEAT ROW 1: With two strands of yarn held together, purl to end. Separate doubled sts onto two needles (photo 1). UPWARD-PULLED PLEAT ROW 2: [K4 from front needle, k8 from back needle, k4 from front needle] 3 times. All 48 sts are on one needle.

Work even in Stockinette stitch for 5 rows, starting with a purl row. Bind off all sts knitwise (photo 2).

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Upward-Pulled Pleat Sample

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PULLED-UP TUCK SAMPLE

Pulled-Up Tuck Sample

CO 18 sts and work in Stockinette stitch for 7 rows, beginning and ending with a purl row. NEXT ROW: Turn to the WS and pick up sts from the fourth row below the needle. Stitches are picked up with a small dpn from left to right upward through the purl stitches (photos 4 and 5). Turn to RS and hold the dpn behind the main needle (photo 6). [K2tog-2n] across both needles (photo 7).

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P U L L E D  D OW N T U C K S

This method is great for incorporating tucks into patterns without distorting the fabric surrounding the tucks. For a stitch pattern that utilizes pulled-down tucks, see Rolling Tucks (page 147). PULLED-DOWN TUCK SAMPLE

In addition to the primary needles, a dpn several sizes smaller is required to collect the strands that will lock in the tuck. CO 13 stitches and work in Stockinette stitch for about one inch, ending with a WS row. NEXT ROW: K4, *with the tip of the dpn, pick up the strand between both needles (photo 8), holding dpn to back, k1 from next needle (photo 9), repeat from * 4 times for a 5-st tuck. Leaving dpn on hold, turn and work main needle: P5, turn, k5, turn, p5 (photo 10); turn and hold dpn behind next needle (photo 11), [k2tog-2n] 5 times, k4 (photo 12).

Pulled-Down Tuck Sample

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TECH N IQUES

THREEDIMENSIONAL KNITTING

TUBE PLE ATS Creating different pleated shapes from tubes can be made by simply folding the ends, either at the beginning of the tube from a provisional cast-on, or at the end of a tube. Once needles are in the desired fold formation, Kitchener stitch (page 122) is used to bind off, locking the folds permanently into position. The Folded Bags (page 82) are an example

Pulled Cables Side A

of end-folded tubes. Another type of pleated tube creates a variety of stable pleat constructions all along the length of the tube. Creating these pleated tubes is like working a series of end-folded tubes using the Combine Stitches (page 136) and Divide Stitches (page 137) techniques. STITCH PATTE R N S THAT U TI LI Z E P LE ATS

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PULLED CABLES

This stitch pattern is made from a mix of left and right unreduced pulled pleats.

Pulled Cables Side B

Multiple of 10 sts +2; 12-row repeat. ROWS 1, 3, AND 5 (SIDE B): P2, [k4, p6] to end. ROWS 2 AND 4: [K6, p4] to last 2 sts, k2. ROW 6: *K2, slip next 4 sts onto an empty dpn and hold in front of next needle, [p1 from back needle, p1 from front needle] twice; [k1 from back needle, k1 from front needle] twice; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2. ROWS 7, 9, AND 11: [P6, k4] to last 2 sts, p2. ROWS 8 AND 10: K2, [p4, k6] to end. ROW 12: *K2, slip next 4 sts onto an empty dpn and hold in back of next needle, [k1 from front needle, k1 from back needle] twice, [p1 from front needle, p1 from back needle] twice; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

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RO L L I N G T U C K S

Rolling Tucks Side A

This stitch pattern uses the pulled-down method of making tucks. When working the tucks on Rows 6 and 12, you will need a dpn that is several sizes smaller than the project needle. Multiple of 10 sts + 5; 12-row repeat. ROWS 1 AND 3 (SIDE B): K1, [k3, p7] to last 4 sts, k4. ROWS 2 AND 4: P1, [p3, k7] to last 4 sts, p4. ROW 5: K1, [k3, p2] to last 4 sts, k4. ROW 6: Work a Beginning-of-Row Tuck (see below), [p3, work a Tuck (see below)] to last 9 sts, p3, work an End-of-Row Tuck (see below). ROWS 7 AND 9: P6, [k3, p7] to last 9 sts, k3, p6. ROWS 8 AND 10: K6, [p3, k7] to last 9 sts, p3, k6. ROW 11: K4, p2, [k3, p2] to last 9 sts, k3, p2, k4. ROW 12: P1, [p3, work a Tuck] to last 4 sts, p4. TUCK

[With the dpn, pick up the strand between the two needles (see photo 8 on page 145) and hold it in back while knitting the next stitch on the left-hand needle (see photo 9 on page 145)] 7 times. Turn and work main needle: [Slip 1 purlwise, p6, turn, slip 1, k6, turn, p7, turn]; hold dpn behind next needle, [k2tog-2n] 6 times, ssk-2n.

Rolling Tucks Side B

BEGINNING-OF-ROW TUCK

Wrap yarn over dpn and hold to back, k1, [with the dpn, pick up the strand between the two needles (see photo 8 on page 145) and hold it in back while knitting the next stitch on the left-hand needle (see photo 9 on page 145)] 5 times. Turn and work main needle: [Slip 1 purlwise, p5, turn, slip 1, k5, turn, p6, turn]; hold dpn behind next needle, [k2tog-2n] 5 times, ssk-2n. END-OF-ROW TUCK

[With the dpn, pick up the strand between the two needles (see photo 8 on page 145) and hold it in back while knitting the next stitch on the left-hand needle (see photo 9 on page 145)] 6 times. Turn and work main needle: [Slip 1 purlwise, p5, turn, slip 1, k5, turn, p6, turn]; hold dpn behind next needle, [k2tog-2n] 5 times, ssk-2n.

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TECH N IQUES

THREEDIMENSIONAL KNITTING

SHORT ROWS

STEP 4:

Short Rows are used to work incomplete rows without leaving holes in your knitting when turning partway across a row. Since these partial rows add length to particular areas, they can be used to shape darts in a sweater, or the curve of a neck opening as used in Ripple Vest (page 44). I also used them to shape the toes of Twist Slippers (page 96) and Open Toes (page 48), the crowns of Hooded Cowl (page 26) and Tilda Hat (page 52), and the shoulders and back of Little Bias Poncho (page 66).

TO HIDE WRAP WHEN YOU COME TO IT: Work to the wrapped stitch. Insert the right-hand needle under the wrap (photo 1). Knit the wrap and wrapped stitch together (photo 2).

There are multiple methods of executing short rows, and all require you to turn your work partway across a row. For years I relied exclusively on the wrap-and-turn method because I like the way it works with Garter stitch and ribs—the stitches I most often used. When I knit the Little Bias Poncho (page 66) that required the use of closely-packed short rows in a Stockinette stitch fabric, it was clear that the wrap-and-turn method would not be as undetectable as I’d hoped. After trying multiple methods, I found the Japanese short-row was the least noticeable due to its unique manner of slipping a stitch at the turn. Even though the Japanese short-rows turned out to be an excellent and easy-to-use method, I continue to use wrapand-turn as well. I like the way a wrap-and-turn looks with Garter stitch when the wraps are left visible. And wrap-andturn is also used exclusively when working Continuously Applied Pieces (see CAPS, page 154) because the wrap bonds the wrapped stitch to the edge of the CAP.

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Turn the work and bring the yarn to the front if the next stitch is to be purled, or leave it in back if the next stitch is to be knit.

WRAPPING A PURL STITCH:

With the yarn in front, slip the next stitch purlwise. Bring the yarn between the needles to the back. STEP 3: Slip the same stitch back to the left-hand needle. STEP 4: Turn the work and bring the yarn to the back if the next stitch is to be knit, or to the front if the next stitch is to be purled. STEP 1: STEP 2:

TO HIDE WRAP WHEN YOU COME TO IT: Work to the wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap and place it on the left-hand needle (photo 3). Purl the wrap and the next stitch together.

You may or may not choose to hide wraps when you work short rows in Garter stitch. I find that I like the look of visible wraps in this stitch. If you choose to hide the wraps, insert the right-hand needle under the wrap and knit the wrap and stitch together. Hiding Wraps

W R A P  A N D  T U R N S H O RT ROW S

Pattern directions will instruct you to knit a certain number of stitches along a row, followed by w&t. When you have worked up to the point of the w&t, work the following four steps for wrapping either a knit or purl stitch. Note that the photos show the wraps being worked on a background of Stockinette stitch, but the instructions work for ribbing as well.

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WRAPPING A KNIT STITCH:

With the yarn in back, slip the next stitch purlwise. Bring the yarn between the needles to the front. STEP 3: Slip the same stitch from Step 1 back to the lefthand needle. STEP 1: STEP 2:

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J A PA N E S E S H O RT ROW S

These short rows slip the first stitch after the turn, which minimizes the bulk created at the turn by other short-row methods. This makes the Japanese method less disruptive and therefore less noticeable. In pattern instructions, the abbreviation t&s (turn and slip) will be used to specify this type of short row. Some tutorials will instruct you to clip a safety pin or stitch marker around the working yarn after the turn to help close the gap on the following row. I find it much easier to skip the pins on the turn row and close the gap with the use of a dpn or cable needle on the following row. The following directions show the method I prefer.

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ON A KNIT ROW: Work up to the turning point.

Turn the work to the purl side. Keeping the yarn to the front, slip one stitch purlwise and purl back to the edge.

STEP 1: STEP 2:

TO CLOSE THE GAP ON NEXT KNIT ROW: Knit to two stitches

before the gap (photo 4). From the back, using a dpn, pick up the strand between the next two sts (photo 5). Leaving the dpn in back, knit the two sts. Slip the strand from the dpn onto the left-hand needle (photo 6), and knit the loop together with the next stitch. ON A PURL ROW: Work up to the turning point.

Turn the work to the knit side. Keeping the yarn to the back, slip one stitch purlwise and knit back to the edge.

STEP 1: STEP 2:

TO CLOSE THE GAP ON NEXT PURL ROW: Purl to two stitches

before the gap (photo 7). From the front, using a dpn, pick up the strand between the next two sts (photo 8). Leaving the dpn in front, purl the two sts (photo 9). Slip one stitch from the left-hand to the right-hand needle, slip the strand from the dpn onto the left-hand needle (photo 10), slip the stitch from the right-hand needle back to the left-hand needle, and purl the loop and stitch together.

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TECH N IQUES

THREEDIMENSIONAL KNITTING

HEMS AND CASINGS Hems and casings can be worked in closed circular tubes or back and forth in open-sided pieces. Both hems and casings are worked by identical methods, with the difference being in their function. A casing creates a tunnel that can be run through with an elastic, a string tie, or a combination of the two, in which short ties are attached to each end of a piece of elastic. A hem is simply a folded section of fabric used to finish an edge. I worked a closed circular hem at the top of the Dimpled Cowl (page 94), while for the My Tie Cardigan (page 99) I made a narrower open-ended casing for a tie.

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BASIC FOLDED HEM AND CASING

To make a hem on a bottom-up knit, or to make a casing or neckband on a top-down knit, use the Turkish CO (page 118) to cast on the total number of stitches desired on the top needle and an equal number on the bottom needle. Leave the bottom needle on hold and work back and forth on the top needle until the leg is twice the desired finished length for the hem, ending with a wrong-side row. Knit one row (Turning Row), then work back and forth again until the second half of the hem measures the same as the first half, ending with a wrong-side row (photo 4). To connect the ends, bring up the bottom needle and hold it parallel behind the working needle (photo 1). Knit one stitch from each needle together (K2tog-2n, page 133) across to the end. The double length is now folded in half and the casing or hem is the desired finished width. Basic Folded Hem and Casing

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My Tie Cardigan (page 99)

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VA R I AT I O N S F RO M T H E B A S I C H E M A N D C A S I N G

Hem and Casing Variations

When connecting the provisional stitches to the working end to complete the hem, you have the option of increasing the number of working stitches. Instead of merging the two edges stitch for stitch with a k2tog-2n, you can work some, or all, of the stitches individually from both needles. In the sample in photo 2, I worked all stitches from both needles separately by alternating knit two from the front needle and purl two from the back needle. In a different sample shown in photo 3, I worked a combination of merged and individual stitches from the front and back needle in the following pattern: [K2tog-2n] twice, k2 from front needle, p4 from back needle, k2 from front needle [k2tog-2n] twice]. If you are working a neckband or a bottom-up hem, these combination hems are a great opportunity to coordinate the merge with the stitch pattern for the garment. I used a combination merge for the Dimpled Cowl, where extra stitches were needed for the deeply-textured pattern.

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To change the fold edge from the basic hem, you can work one row of purl on the knit side at the folded edge of the hem (photos 4 and 5). For a more decorative edge, you may work a row of eyelets, alternating k2tog with a yarnover on a purl row (photos 6 and 7).

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TECH N IQUES

C O N TI N UOUS K N I TT I NG

ontinuous-knitting techniques make it possible to knit with an uninterrupted strand of yarn. They are useful for designs that have typically relied on either seaming or merging separately knit pieces. A huge benefit to knitting continuously is the elimination of ends that need to be woven in. These often unruly bits of yarn can be quite numerous in some designs and often poke out in undesirable places with wear.

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Knitting seamless apparel has typically relied on picking up stitches or knitting in the round to eliminate seams. In addition to Pick-Ups and Tubular Knitting, this chapter introduces CAPS (Continuously Applied Pieces), a new technique that extends the benefits of knitting seamless garments beyond their elemental seams: It is useful for functional and decorative applications. I used it to work the large vertical buttonholes in Big Button Cowl (page 14) without attaching a separate strand of yarn, and to create the three-dimensional shape of Stacked Necklace (page 30). I also used it to devise a new stitch pattern for Rocking Rib Wrap (page 88). 154 CAPS (CONTINUOUSLY APPLIED PIECES) 161 TUBULAR KNITTING 163 PICK-UPS

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ROCKING RIB WRAP (CAPS) F R I N G E D C OW L ( C A P S )

O P E N TO E S ( P I C K - U P S )

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TECH N IQUES

CONTINUOUS KNITTING

CAPS (CONTINUOUSLY APPLIED PIECES)

String of Units (Sample 1)

The CAPS technique is a blend of short rows and decreases that makes it possible to knit separate units with a continuous strand of yarn. The short-row method used is always the Wrapand-Turn (page 148), but wraps are never hidden on a following row. The decreases are made with waste stitches that are added on at the beginning of each CAP in the form of simple half hitches (see AO-h, page 113). With some creative planning, CAPS can be utilized to knit continuous complex shapes such as Square Arches (page 22) and Big Button Cowl (page 14). When looking at either of these projects, most knitters falsely jump to the conclusion that sections were knit separately with different strands of yarn and then combined, but they weren’t.

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String of Units (Sample 2)

The easiest way to understand how the technique works is by knitting a variety of small samples that display the various ways that CAPS can be integrated into knitting. 3

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STRING OF UNITS

SAMPLE 1 creates a string of three units that are each 6 sts

by 10 rows (photo 2). CO 6 sts. Work in K1, P1 Rib for 10 rows, slipping the first st of each row, to create the first unit. **AO-h 5 sts, KCO 6 sts (photo 1). Note: The AO-h 5 sts are the waste sts, and they will be eliminated as you work. Each waste st allows you to work 2 rows of the CAP, so the 5 waste sts will work a unit that is 10 rows, matching the length of the initial unit knit for this sample. The KCO 6 sts is the cast-on for another 6-st unit that will be attached to the previous unit. *Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p2tog, w&t, [k1, p1] 3 times. Repeat from * four times. Repeat from ** once (photo 2).

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SAMPLE 2: Strings of units can also be spaced apart by adding

additional KCO stitches before the waste sts at the beginning of a CAP. These additional stitches will remain as live stitches after the CAP is complete (photo 4). CO 6 sts. Work in k1, p1 rib for 8 rows, slipping the first st of each row, to create the first unit. **AO-f 1 st, KCO 3 sts, AO-h 4 sts, KCO 6 sts (photo 3). Note: The first KCO sts are the stitches that create the space between the units, the AO-h 4 sts are the waste sts and will be eliminated as you work. Each waste st allows you to work 2 rows of the CAP, so the 3 waste sts will work a unit that is 6 rows, matching the length of the first unit you knit. The AO-f 4 sts and KCO 6 sts are the cast-on for another 6-st unit to match the first unit. *Slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2tog, w&t; [k1, p1] 4 times. Repeat from * twice. Repeat from ** twice (photo 4).

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SAMPLE 3: For this looped edging (photo 9), 4-st CAPS were

String of Units (Sample 3)

worked for 14 rows in Stockinette stitch, starting the initial unit and each CAP with a provisional cast-on (Crochet Provisional Cast-On, page 119) (photo 5). When a CAP is completed, place the provisional stitches onto an empty dpn (photo 6). Bring up the dpn and knit the provisional stitches (photo 7). The provisional stitches in this sample were worked [k2tog, ssk]. To begin another CAP, AO-f 1 st, 1 KCO, AO-h 7 sts and knit 4 provisionally cast-on stitches (photo 8).

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L AY E R E D U N I T S O N T H E E D G E

SAMPLE 4 creates a 6-st, 5-row flap on the edge of a 10-st wide

fabric every fourth row (photo 13). Three dpns are required to work this sample. CO 10 sts and work in k1, p1 rib for 5 rows, slipping the first st of each row. Note: These are the main sts upon which the flaps will be attached. **AO-h 3 sts and KCO 6 sts (see photo 10). The AO-h 3 sts are your waste sts and will be eliminated as you work. The KCO 6 sts are the cast-on for the 6-st flap. [Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p2tog, w&t, [k1, p1] 3 times] twice. Slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p2tog, turn (do not w&t) (see photo 11) and hold dpn with flap in front of the next 6 sts of the main fabric (see photo 12).

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Layered Units on the Edge (Sample 4)

[K2tog-2n, p2tog-2n] 3 times to attach flap to main fabric. Work even for 5 rows in rib pattern, slipping first st of each needle. Repeat from ** twice. Three flaps have been attached to the 10-sts of the main fabric (photo 13). 10

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TECH N IQUES

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CONTINUOUS KNITTING

L AY E R E D U N I T S I N T H E M I D D L E

Layered Units in the Middle (Sample 5)

CAPS worked in the middle are just like CAPS on the edge— a w&t is worked after each waste stitch is decreased, except for the last one. After the last waste stitch is decreased, simply rotate the CAP dpn either clockwise to hold in front of the next needle, or counterclockwise to hold in back of the next needle, so that the CAP stitches and main fabric stitches can be worked together. SAMPLE 5 adds a ruffled CAP in the middle of a row (photo 16).

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The number of KCO sts is doubled, so the CAP stitches can be decreased into a gathered fabric before attaching to the main fabric. CO 16 sts and work in Stockinette stitch for 8 rows. K4, turn, AO-h 3 sts, KCO 16 sts (photo 14). The AO-h sts are waste sts that will be eliminated while working the Cap, and the KCOs are the beginning of the ruffled CAP. [With an empty dpn, p15, p2tog, w&t, with main needle k16] twice. With empty dpn, [p2tog] 7 times, p3tog, turn (do not wrap). Hold dpn with the 8 CAP sts in front of the next needle (photo 15), [k2tog-2n] 8 times, k4. This sample added a layer while working a knit (RS) row, but CAPS can also be added in the same way while working a WS row. When working from the WS, be sure to hold the dpn with the layer sts to the RS when you attach it to your main piece.

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A P P LY I N G VA R I AT I O N S

When CAPS are worked over an unchanging set of stitches, as they were in the samples above, different stitch patterns can easily be substituted for the simple rib or Stockinette stitch. For any stitch pattern you choose to use, work the waste stitch decreases along the side edge of the CAP appropriately for your stitch pattern with either a k2tog or p2tog. CAPS do not have to be rectangular and can be shaped using decreases, increases, or short rows. When short rows are utilized for shaping within a CAP, these short rows can be worked using methods other than wrap-and-turn. If the Japanese method is used, gaps should be closed, or if the wrap-and-turn method is used, wraps should be hidden. You will always apply the CAP method of combining waste stitches and decreases at the edge where the CAP is attached whenever you work to that edge.

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V E RT I C A L B U T TO N H O L E S

CAPS can be used to work vertical buttonholes (Big Button Cowl, page 14) without attaching a second strand of yarn. After one side of the buttonhole is complete, the second side is brought up to the same length using the CAP technique. STEP 1: Work the first half of the buttonhole to the desired

height (photo 17), beginning and ending wiht a knit row, and keeping track of the number of rows worked. STEP 2: Add 1 to the number of rows worked in Step 1 then

divide by 2. This is the number of waste stitches you will need. Add the waste sts using AO-h. For this sample, 5 rows were worked, so AO-h 3 sts (5 rows + 1 ÷ 2 = 3) were added to the first half of the buttonhole (photo 18). STEP 3: Work to the end of the piece. STEP 4: Work up to one stitch before the waste stitches and

work 2 sts together, w&t. One waste stitch has been decreased.

Big Button Cowl (page 14)

Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until all but 1 waste stitch have been decreased. When 1 waste stitch remains, work up to the waste stitch, work 2 stitches together (the next st and the waste st), then continue on to the end of the row. Photo 19 shows a completed buttonhole. Vertical Buttonholes

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TECH N IQUES

CONTINUOUS KNITTING

STITCH PATTE R N S THAT U TI LI Z E THE CAPS TE CHN I Q U E

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Laser Cables

LASER CABLES

Instructions here are for basic Laser Cables worked back and forth. For Cable 2 in My Tie Cardigan, I modified these basic instructions so I could smoothly and nearly invisibly incorporate increases at the end of each unit section. This stitch pattern is also used in High Profile Vest, where it is modified to work in the round. Multiple of 9 sts + 2; 8-row repeat. Rows 1 and 5 work consecutive 9-st sections back and forth, ultimately increasing the fabric by 7 rows. So the actual row length is 20 for each repeat. In these two rows, each multirowed unit must be completed before moving on to the next unit in the row. Sample shown was worked 2 ½ times over 38 sts. Slip 1, knit to end. Slip 1, purl to end. ROW 3: UNIT 1: [Slip 1, k8, turn, slip 1, p8, turn] twice; Slip 1, k2, slip 3 to dpn and hold to front, k3, k3 from dpn, turn, slip 1, p8, turn; Slip 1, k8, do not turn; UNIT 2: AO-h 4 sts, [k9, turn, slip 1, p7, p2tog, w&t] twice; K3, slip 3 to dpn and hold to front, k3, k3 from dpn, turn, slip 1, p7, p2tog, w&t; K9, do not turn; repeat Unit 2 until 11 sts remain, do not turn; UNIT 3: AO-h 4 sts, [k11, turn, slip 1, p9, p2tog, w&t] twice, turn; K3, slip 3 to dpn and hold to front, k3, k3 from dpn, k2, turn; Slip 1, p9, p2tog, w&t, k11. ROW 1: ROW 2:

UNIT 2: AO-h 4 sts, k9, turn, slip 1, p7, p2tog, w&t; K3, slip 3 to dpn and hold to back, k3, k3 from dpn, turn; slip 1, p7, k2tog, w&t; K9, turn, slip 1, p7, p2tog, w&t; K9, do not turn; repeat Unit 2 until 8 sts remain; UNIT 3: AO-h 4 sts, k8, [turn, slip 1, p6, p2tog, w&t, k8] 3 times.

Slip 1, [p7, slip 1 to dpn and hold to front, p1, slip 1, slip 1 from dpn to right-hand needle, p2tog on right-hand needle] to last 10 sts, p10.

ROW 8:

Slip 1, p10, [slip 1 to dpn and to hold front, p1, slip 1, slip 1 from dpn to right-hand needle, p2tog on right-hand needle, p7] to end. ROW 5: Slip 1, knit to end. ROW 6: Slip 1, purl to end. ROW 7: UNIT 1: Slip 1, k11, turn, slip 1, p11, turn; Slip 1, k5, slip 3 to dpn and hold to back, k3, k3 from dpn, turn; slip 1, p11, turn; Slip 1, k11, turn, slip 1, p11, turn; Slip 1, k11, do not turn; ROW 4 (WS):

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RO C K I N G R I B

Rocking Rib

I used this stitch as the foundation for two of the patterns in the book. For the Fancy Market Bag (page 39), I modified the pattern to work in the round with the units appearing more steplike rather than flipping back and forth. For the Rocking Rib Wrap (page 88) I expanded the pattern to a twelve-stitch repeat and included instructions on how to increase and decrease at the sides of the stitch pattern. Multiple of 8 sts + 4 (minimum 12 sts); 1-row repeat. This is a unit pattern and the single row increases the length of your knitting by 7 rows. Each multi-rowed unit must be completed before moving on to the next unit in the row. Sample shown was worked over 44 sts. Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, [k1, (p1, pso, k1, pso) twice, p1, k1, p1] until 6 sts remain, k1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, p1. Notes: 1) Work all yos through trailing leg to close (see Yarnover Increase, page 130). 2) With the exception of sts slipped when working w&t, slip sts knitwise. 3) The first time Row 1 is worked, substitute k1 for k1-hw.

SET-UP ROW:

ROW 1: UNIT 1: Slip 1, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, k1, p1; Slip 1, p1, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, k1, p1; [Slip 1, p1, (k1, p1) twice, turn] twice; Slip 1, p1, [k1, p1] twice, do not turn; UNIT 2: AO-h 3 sts, k1-hw, p1, k1, p1-w, p1, turn; slip 1, yo, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] twice, yo, k1, p1, turn; slip 1, p1, k1, yo, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, w&t; [K1, p1] 4 times, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p2tog, w&t; K1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice, p1, k1, p1, do not turn; repeat Unit 2 until 6 sts remain. LAST UNIT: AO-h 3 sts, k1-hw, p1, [k1, p1] twice, turn; slip 1, [p1, k1] twice, p2tog, w&t; [(K1, p1) 3 times, turn; slip 1, (p1, k1) twice, p2tog, w&t] twice. K1, [p1, pso, k1, pso] twice p1.

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TECH N IQUES

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CONTINUOUS KNITTING

CABLED FLAPS

Cabled Flaps Side A

A modified version of this stitch pattern is used in the Fringed Cable Cowl (page 86) . In addition to fringe, the width was expanded, flap rows were spaced farther apart, and the cable crosses on Rows 7 and 18 were eliminated. Multiple of 30 sts; 20-row repeat. [K1, p1] to end. *K1, p1, turn and work Flap (see below), [k1, p1] 11 times; repeat from * to end. ROW 8: *[K1, p1] 9 times, slip next 4 sts to dpn and hold to front, [k1, p1] 3 times, [k1, p1] twice from dpn, k1, p1; repeat from * to end. ROW 9: [K1, p1] to end. ROW 10 (WS): *[K1, p1] 6 times, slip next 6 sts to dpn and hold to back, [k1, p1] 3 times, [k1, p1] 3 times from dpn, [k1, p1] 3 times; repeat from * to end. ROWS 11–16: [K1, p1] to end. ROW 17 (RS): *[K1, p1] 11 times, turn; work Flap (see below), k1, p1; repeat from * to end. ROW 18: *K1, p1, slip next 6 sts to dpn and hold to back, [k1, p1] twice, [k1, p1] 3 times from dpn, [k1, p1] 9 times; repeat from * to end. ROW 19: [K1, p1] to end. ROW 20 (WS): *[K1, p1] 3 times, slip next 6 sts to dpn and hold to front, [k1, p1] 3 times, [k1, p1] 3 times from dpn, [k1, p1] 6 times; repeat from * to end. ROWS 1–6:

ROW 7 (RS):

Cabled Flaps Side B

FLAP

With WS facing, cast on 9 sts to left-hand needle as follows: AO-h 3 sts, KCO 6 sts using dpn. *With dpn, slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] twice, p2tog, w&t; with main needle, [k1, p1] 3 times, turn. Repeat from * once. With dpn, slip 1 knitwise, [p1, k1] twice, p2tog, turn (do not wrap). (RS) Hold dpn in front of and parallel to the next 6 sts: [K2tog (1 st from dpn together with 1 st from main needle), p2tog (1 st from dpn together with 1 st from main needle)] 3 times.

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T U BU L A R K N I TT I N G

Casting On for a Tube

Tubular knitting is an excellent alternative to working in the round on double-pointed needles, and when too few stitches prohibit the use of a circular needle. Since tubular knitting is worked back and forth, it eliminates the loose stitches that sometimes occur when moving from one double-pointed needle to the next. I used this technique to knit the sleeves in My Tie Cardigan (page 99), and also the section between fingertips and thumb in Mer Mittens (page 32).

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Mechanically, tubular knitting is similar to double knitting in its method of alternating a worked stitch and a slipped stitch. But while double knitting is worked with two strands of yarn to create two fabrics or a single interlocked reversible fabric, tubular knitting uses a single strand and creates an open tube. On the needle, a tube of Stockinette stitch is a series of knit and purl stitches with the knits coming forward on the side facing you. It is important not to mix stitches from one side of the tube with the other. If a stitch is worked with its opposite side, the two sides will be connected at that point. When I work tubular knits, I regularly feel inside the tube to make sure I haven’t inadvertently connected the two sides.

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doubled when casting on for tubular knitting because you are working two halves of the tube together on a single needle. For example, a multiple of four stitches must be cast on for each repeat of a k1, p1 rib—two stitches for each side of the tube. To work a Stockinette stitch tube that is closed at the start, begin with the Turkish Cast-On (page 118) and knit several rounds on both needles. Hold both needles parallel with purl sides facing each other, then beginning with the free end of either needle, work the tubular stitch of your choice.

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W O R K I N G A S TO C K I N E T T E S T I TC H T U B E

STOCKINETTE TUBULAR ROW: *[Yf, slip 1, yb, k1] to end, turn;

repeat from * until tube is desired length. CASTING ON FOR A TUBE

There are two options for casting on to begin an open-ended tube. One option is to cast on an even number of stitches with the Open-Tube Cast-On (page 116).

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For the second option, use a basic cast-on like Long-Tail CastOn (see page 110), casting on an even number of stitches onto a double-pointed or circular needle. Then slip half the stitches onto a second dpn or circular needle and hold the two needles parallel to each other (photo 1). In preparation for a Stockinette stitch tube, combine the stitches onto a single needle as follows: *[Yf, slip 1 from back needle, yb, k1 from front needle] to end (photo 2). In preparation for a K1, P1 tube, combine the stitches as follows: *[Yf, slip 1 from back needle, p1 from front needle, slip 1 from back needle, yb, k1 from front needle] to end. In preparation for a Garter stitch tube, combine the stitches as follows: *[Yb, k1 from front needle, yf, slip 1 from back needle] to end.

K1, P1 TUBULAR ROW: *[Yf, slip 1, p1, slip 1, yb, k1] to end,

WORKING A K1, P1 TUBE

The following K1, P1 Rib pattern requires a multiple of 4 sts, and starts with a purl stitch on the facing side.

turn; repeat from * until tube is desired length.

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W O R K I N G A G A RT E R S T I TC H T U B E

Just like Garter stitch worked in the round, the tubular Garter stitch also requires two rows to create the pattern. GARTER TUBULAR ROW 1: *[Yf, p1, yb, slip 1] to end, turn;

repeat from * once. GARTER TUBULAR ROW 2: *[Yb, k1, yf, slip 1] to end, turn;

repeat from * once. Repeat these 2 rows until tube is desired length.

If the tube will be worked in a pattern other than Stockinette stitch or Garter stitch, you need to take into account the multiple of the pattern. The multiple of a stitch pattern must be

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TECH N IQUES

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CONTINUOUS KNITTING

TUBULAR DECREASES AND INCREASES

Decreases and increases in tubular knitting are always made in pairs–one on each side, opposite each other. To make a decrease in tubular Stockinette stitch, work up to the point of the decrease for the side facing you, with the next stitch a knit stitch. Slip the next knit stitch to a stitch holder and hold in front (photo 3), bring the yarn forward and slip the next purl stitch to the right-hand needle. Return the knit stitch on the front holder to the left-hand needle. The last two stitches on the right-hand needle are purl stitches and the next two stitches on the left-hand needle are knit stitches (photo 4). Move the yarn to the back and k2tog, then continue working the tubular Stockinette stitch to the end of the row. On the next row, to work a decrease on the second side, work up to the point where there are two consecutive knit stitches on the next needle (photo 5). Work ssk to decrease one of the stitches, then continue working the regular tubular Stockinette stitch to the end of the row. To make an increase in tubular Stockinette stitch, work up to the point of the increase for the side facing you, with the next stitch a knit. Work an RLI in the next knit stitch (photo 6). Continue to the end of the row, working in tubular Stockinette stitch. On the next row, to work the increase on the second side, work up to the point where there are two consecutive purl stitches on the next needle (photo 7). With the yarn in front, slip the first purl stitch of the pair. Work an RLI in the next knit stitch (photo 8), then bring the yarn forward and slip the next purl stitch. Continue working the regular tubular Stockinette stitch to the end of the row. Following is a small 14-stitch sample working a tubular decrease, then a tubular increase. Once you work through the decreases, use the same tube to work the increases.

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TUBULAR DECREASE SAMPLE:

CO 14 sts [7 sts each side]. Work in tubular Stockinette stitch for an inch. TUBULAR DECREASE ROW 1: [Yf, slip 1, yb, k1] twice, yf, slip 1, slip 1 to st holder in front, slip 1, return st on front holder to left-hand needle, yb, k2tog, [yf, slip 1, yb, k1] to end. TUBULAR DECREASE ROW 2: [Yf, slip 1, yb, k1] to last 5 sts, ssk, yf, slip 1, yb, k1, yf, slip 1. TUBULAR INCREASE SAMPLE: TUBULAR INCREASE ROW 1: [Yf, slip 1, yb, k1] twice, yf, slip 1, yb, RLI, k1, [yf, slip 1, yb, k1] to end. TUBULAR INCREASE ROW 2: [Yf, slip 1, yb, k1] 3 times, yf, slip 1, RLI in next knit stitch, [yf, slip 1, yb, k1] to end.

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P I CK- U P S Picked-up stitches are frequently used as a method for working seamless garments, stitch patterns such as Entrelac, and for creating Tuck Pleats (page 144). Pick-ups are also useful for turning flat, back-and-forth knitting into three-dimensional shapes. I derived the three-dimensional slipper shape of both Open Toes (page 48) and Twist Slippers (page 96) with the use of pick-ups from along an edge. I used pick-ups away from the edge to create three-dimensional depth in the Simple Fold Scarf (page 78). Pattern instructions may specify to either “pick up” or “pick up and knit” stitches. To pick up and knit, each individual stitch is knit onto the right-hand needle as soon as it is picked up with the left-hand needle. If instructions indicate to simply pick up a specified number of stitches, then pick up all the stitches onto a left-hand needle without knitting them.

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Pick-Ups from I-cord

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P I C K  U P S F RO M I  C O R D

Typically, I-Cord is applied to finished knitting, but it can also be used as a beginning for a project (Ruche Hat, page 72). When working I-Cord from which stitches will be picked up, do not pull the yarn tightly across the back and do not pull the finished I-Cord to close the gap (photo 1). These visible horizontal threads are the future picked-up stitches.

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To pick up a strand and make a stitch, insert a dpn from right to left under a single thread (photo 2) and twist it clockwise a half turn (photo 3), then slip it onto a needle held to the right (photo 4). Repeat this for every strand down the length of the I-Cord (photo 5).

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TECH N IQUES

CONTINUOUS KNITTING

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P I C K  U P S A L O N G A G A RT E R E D G E

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P I C K  U P S AWAY F RO M T H E E D G E

Pick-Ups Along Garter Edge

In Garter stitch, only the ridged stitches are picked up. When picking up multiple stitches, use a smaller sized dpn than the project needle, and insert it into all the purl ridges that will be picked up (photo 6). You are then ready to work across all the picked-up stitches in one continuous move (photo 7). Multiple ridges were picked up to knit the bands in Open Toes (page 48) and the strap for the Sleep Shades (page 75). 6

Stitches picked up away from the edge of Garter stitch fabric, are worked the same as they are along the edge—from the purl bumps. When picking up multiple stitches perpendicular to the working needle, insert a smaller dpn into all the pick-ups at once (photo 8), so the pick-ups can be knit in one continuous motion (photo 9). A three-dimensional design that works offthe-edge Garter stitch pick-ups on a diagonal across the fabric is Shag from my book Knitting New Scarves. Stitches can also be picked up from knit and purl patterns. To pick up stitches vertically down the length of any pattern stitch, pick up connecting strands between stitches, keeping them vertically aligned in the column. Photo 10 shows 9 stitches picked up from a k3, p3 checked pattern. From the opposite side, the pick-ups lie along the surface of the fabric (photo 11). To work these pick-ups, work the strands over the dpn (photo 12). In a rib pattern, the dpn is slipped under a column of purls equal to the desired number of stitches to be picked up, as used for picked-up stitches in Simple Fold Scarf (page 78). To pick up stitches down the length of Stockinette stitch, slip a small dpn under a column of purl stitches (photo 13) to create stitches on the purl side, or under a column of knit stitches to create stitches on the knit side. A Swell Stockinette (see page 165) utilized pick-ups on the purl side, so the pick-ups could then be knit together with adjacent working stitches to create folds.

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Pick-Ups Away from Edge

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A S W E L L S TO C K I N E T T E

A Swell Stockinette

Multiple of 10 sts; 18-row repeat. ROWS 1, 3, AND 5: Purl. ROWS 2, 4, AND 6: Knit. ROW 7 (WS): P2, *with the small dpn pick up 6 sts vertically downward (see photo 13 page 164); with working needle, purl the pick-ups, with large dpn, k6 (the pick-ups), hold dpn in front of next needle, [p2tog-2n] 6 times, p4, repeat from *, ending last repeat with p2. ROWS 8, 10, AND 12: Knit. ROWS 9, 11, AND 13: Purl. ROW 14 (RS): K2, *turn to WS, with the small dpn pick, up 6 sts vertically downward; with working needle, knit the pickups through the back loops, with large dpn p5, slip 1, hold dpn in back of next needle, [k2tog-2n] 6 times, k4, repeat from *, ending last repeat with k2. ROWS 15 AND 17: Purl. ROWS 16 AND 18: Knit.

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ABBR E V I AT I O N S AO-F #: Add on specified number of sts, full twist (see page 113)

K1-WY#: Knit 1 st, wrapping yarn the

M1-P-L (MAKE 1 ST PURLWISE; LEFT

specified number of times around needle.

AO-H #: Add on specified number of sts,

K2TOG: Knit 2 sts together; right leaning, to decrease 1 st (see page 131).

LEANING): With tip of left-hand needle inserted from front to back, lift strand between 2 needles onto left-hand needle; purl the strand through back loop to increase 1 st (see page 126).

half twist (see page 113) CC: Contrasting color CIRC: Circular CO: Cast on CN: Cable needle CDD (CENTERED DOUBLE DECREASE):

Slip next 2 sts together knitwise to righthand needle, k1, pass 2 slipped sts over knit st to decrease 2 sts (see page 132). DD-3N: Knit 3 stitches together from

three needles held together to decrease 2 sts (see page 133). DPN(S): Double-pointed needle(s) K: Knit K1-B/F: Knit into back, then front loops

of same st to increase 1 st (see page 124). K1-F/B: Knit into front and back loops

of same st to increase 1 st (see page 124). K1-F/B/F: Knit into front, then back,

then front loops of same st to increase 2 sts (see page 124). K1-TBL : Knit one st through the back

loop, twisting the st. K1-HW: Knit 1 st, hiding wrap from

a short-row, bind-off, or decrease on previous row.

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K2TOG-2N: Knit 2 sts together from two needles held together (1 st from front needle together with 1 st from back needle) to decrease 1 st (see page 138). K3TOG: Knit 3 stitches together; right leaning, to decrease 2 sts. KCO (KNITTED CAST-ON): Knit into first stitch on left-hand needle, but do not drop stitch from left-hand needle; place new stitch just made onto left-hand needle, increasing one stitch. L1K2TOG: Lift st below next st on left-

hand needle and place on left-hand needle; knit lifted st and next st together. LLI (LEFT LIFTED INCREASE): Pick up st below last st on right-hand needle, picking up from top down into back of st, and place on left-hand needle; knit picked-up st through front loop to increase 1 st (see page 126). M1-L (MAKE 1 ST; LEFT LEANING):

With tip of left-hand needle inserted from front to back, lift strand between 2 needles onto left-hand needle; knit strand through back loop to increase 1 st (see page 126). M1-R (MAKE 1 ST; RIGHT LEANING):

With tip of left-hand needle inserted from back to front, lift strand between 2 needles onto left-hand needle; knit strand through front loop to increase 1 st (see page 126).

M1-P-R (MAKE 1 ST PURLWISE; RIGHT LEANING): With tip of left-hand needle inserted from back to front, lift strand between 2 needles onto left-hand needle; purl strand through front loop to increase 1 st (see page 126). MC: Main color NEXT NEEDLE (OR DPN): Needle follow-

ing working needle P: Purl P1-HW: Purl 1 st, hiding wrap from

either a short-row or bind-off on previous row. P1-W: Pick up wrap around next st on

left-hand needle and purl it; do not purl it together with st it wraps. P2TOG: Purl two sts together to decrease

1 st (see page 131). P2TOG-2N: Knit 2 stitches together from

two needles held together (1 st from back needle together with 1 st from front needle) to decrease 1 st (see page 133). PM: Place marker PSO (PASS ST OVER): Pass next-to-last st on right-hand needle over last st on needle.

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PSSO (PASS SLIPPED ST OVER): Pass slipped st on right-hand needle over st(s) indicated in instructions, as in binding off. PREVIOUS NEEDLE (OR DPN): Needle

preceding working needle RLI (RIGHT LIFTED INCREASE): Pick up st below next st on left-hand needle, picking up from bottom up into back of st, and place it on left-hand needle; knit picked-up st through front loop to increase 1 st (see page 126).

T&S: Turn and slip 1 st (see Japanese Short Rows, page 149) TBL : Through back loop TN: Tapestry needle W&T: Wrap-and-turn (see Short Rows, page 148) WORKING NEEDLE (OR DPN): Needle

with attached (working) yarn. WS: Wrong side WYIB: With yarn in back

RND(S): Round(s)

WYIF: With yarn in front

RS: Right side

YB: Yarn back

SM: Slip marker

YF: Yarn front

SSK (SLIP, SLIP, KNIT; LEFT LEANING):

YO: Yarnover

Slip next 2 sts to right-hand needle one at a time as if to knit; insert left-hand needle into fronts of both sts and knit them together to decrease 1 st (see page 131).

YOC#: [Yo, pso] the specified number

of times

SSK-2N: Work ssk from two needles held

together (1 st from front needle together with 1 st from back needle) to decrease 1 st (see page 133). SSP (SLIP, SLIP, PURL ; LEFT LEANING):

Slip next 2 sts to right-hand needle one at a time as if to knit; return them to left-hand needle one at a time in their new orientation; purl them together through back loops to decrease 1 st (see page 131). SSSK: Same as ssk, but worked on next 3 sts to decrease 2 sts. ST(S): Stitch(es)

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YAR N SO U R C E S

ACK NOWLEDG MENTS

B LU E S K Y A L PA C A S

A book’s creation—from concept, up to its trip to the printer—follows a specific working order. If my acknowledgments follow that same order, then Melanie Falick, the publishing director and my editor at Abrams, is at the top of the list. Without Melanie this book would have remained just an idea in my head. In addition to getting the book rolling, she played a part in every phase of the project to make sure that the book you now hold is as beautiful and knitter-friendly as it could possibly be. She even got me to knit some of the projects in pink (no small feat); and for several projects, she asked Joelle Hoverson, owner of Purl Soho, to choose fabrics. Thank you, Joelle, for providing the fabrics—I wish all had been included along with the one shown on page 43 for the optional Fancy Market Bag liner. Your wonderful fabrics have inspired me to take up sewing again.

www.blueskyalpacas.com BERROCO

www.berroco.com B R O O K LY N T W E E D

www.brooklyntweed.net CASCADE YARNS

www.cascadeyarns.com HARRISVILLE DESIGNS

www.harrisville.com MALABRIGO YARN

www.malabrigoyarn.com R OWA N Y A R N S

www.knitrowan.com QUINCE & CO.

www.quinceandco.com T H E F I B R E C O M PA N Y

Distributed by Kelbourne Woolens www.kelbournewoolens.com PURL SOHO

In addition to yarns, Purl Soho provided fabrics for the Fancy Market Bag inserts (page 39). 459 Broome Street New York, NY 10013 (212) 420-8796 (800) 597-7875 www.purlsoho.com

Sue McCain, in addition to being an amazing technical editor, is an amazing person to boot. Even with a daunting workload and looming deadlines bearing down on her like a locomotive at full speed, she can still crack me up. She puts “the fun” into what would otherwise be my least favorite part of the process.

it was possible to love Thayer’s photographs more than I did when she worked on Reversible Knitting, but it turned out that I could. Her stash of confetti and balloons bestows an upbeat and playful spirit to the book. Mary Jane Callister not only designed the book, embellished with her own wonderful typographic and design elements—she also came up with appropriate captions for the instructional photos. That means she didn’t just lay out the text, she read it as well! And Doug, my husband, who built me a little photo studio and taught me to take instructional photos for Knitting New Scarves (and gave me a refresher lesson for Reversible Knitting), entrusted me with his newest, most favorite camera for this book. He also helped me to meet my deadline by formatting and cropping several hundred photos. That probably took him a tenth of the time it would have taken me, but it was still a generous amount of time. Not all Doug’s help is photography-related, but in lieu of listing all he does, I will simply dedicate this book to him.

Without exceptional photography and styling, a book can easily fall flat on its cover, so I’m very grateful to photographer Thayer Allyson Gowdy and photo stylist Karen Schaupeter for the beautiful project photos. I didn’t think

168

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WITH

PROJECTS

—KNITTY.COM

A MASTER CLASS IN INCREASES, DECREASES, AND OTHER FORMS OF SHAPING

B A RR

Lynne Barr is one of the twenty-first century ’s most exciting knitters, both a master and an innovator of technique and design. In The Shape of Knitting (her third book, following Knitting New Scarves and Reversible Knitting), she explores methods for shaping flat and dimensional knitted fabrics, the tried-and-true as well as new techniques she has masterminded. Twenty-four fashion-fresh projects, including many quick-knit accessories, make exploring these skills a fascinating adventure.

A MASTER CLASS IN INCREASES, DECREASES, AN D OTH E R F O RMS O F SH API NG

“Lynne Barr has one of my favorite brains in knitting. She’s not afraid to explore, de- and re-construct to hit on something new and inventive.”

U.S. $29.95 CAN. $32.95 U.K. £18.99 ISBN 978-1-61769-021-1

LY N N E B A R R

115 WEST 18TH STREET, NEW YORK , NY 10011 WWW.STCBOOKS.COM WWW.MELANIEFALICKBOOKS.COM

P H OTO G R A P H S BY T H AY E R A L LY S O N G O W DY

PRINTED PR I N TED IN I N HONG HO N G KONG KO N G

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