The adventures of the man who created Aladdin The Book of Travels is Ḥanna Diyāb’s remarkable first-person account of h
300 37 19MB
English Pages [381] Year 2021
The Book of Travels Volume One
Library of Arabic Literature General Editor Philip F. Kennedy, New York University Executive Editors James E. Montgomery, University of Cambridge Shawkat M. Toorawa, Yale University Editorial Director Chip Rossetti Assistant Editor Lucie Taylor Editors Sean Anthony, The Ohio State University Huda Fakhreddine, University of Pennsylvania Lara Harb, Princeton University Maya Kesrouany, New York University Abu Dhabi Enass Khansa, American University of Beirut Bilal Orfali, American University of Beirut Maurice Pomerantz, New York University Abu Dhabi Mohammed Rustom, Carleton University Consulting Editors Julia Bray Michael Cooperson Joseph E. Lowry Tahera Qutbuddin Devin J. Stewart Digital Production Manager Stuart Brown Paperback Designer Nicole Hayward Fellowship Program Coordinator Amani Al-Zoubi
Letter from the General Editor
The Library of Arabic Literature makes available Arabic editions and English translations of significant works of Arabic literature, with an emphasis on the seventh to nineteenth centuries. The Library of Arabic Literature thus includes texts from the pre-Islamic era to the cusp of the modern period, and encompasses a wide range of genres, including poetry, poetics, fiction, religion, philosophy, law, science, travel writing, history, and historiography. Books in the series are edited and translated by internationally recognized scholars. They are published as hardcovers in parallel-text format with Arabic and English on facing pages, as English-only paperbacks, and as downloadable Arabic editions. For some texts, the series also publishes separate scholarly editions with full critical apparatus. The Library encourages scholars to produce authoritative Arabic editions, accompanied by modern, lucid English translations, with the ultimate goal of introducing Arabic’s rich literary heritage to a general audience of readers as well as to scholars and students. The publications of the Library of Arabic Literature are generously supported by Tamkeen under the NYU Abu Dhabi Research Institute Award G1003 and are published by NYU Press. Philip F. Kennedy General Editor, Library of Arabic Literature
��ة ا ا �� ا � �ة ك��ح� ب� ل���حة�� �ح� � بّ ح��ا د ��ا � � � ة ب ا�� ّ � �أ بم � �ح��ل��د ا �ل��ّو�ل
The Book of Travels Ḥannā Diyāb Volume One Edited by Johannes Stephan Translated by Elias Muhanna Foreword by Yasmine Seale Volume editor Michael Cooperson
NEW YORK UNIVERSITY PRESS New York
NEW YORK UNIVERSITY PRESS New York Copyright © 2021 by New York University All rights reserved Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Control Number: 2020054531 New York University Press books are printed on acid-free paper, and their binding materials are chosen for strength and durability. Series design by Titus Nemeth. Typeset in Tasmeem, using DecoType Naskh and Emiri. Typesetting and digitization by Stuart Brown. Manufactured in the United States of America c 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Table of Contents
iii viii xi xv xvii xxxiii xxxix
Letter from the General Editor Map: Ḥannā Diyāb’s Travels Foreword by Yasmine Seale Acknowledgments Introduction Note on the Text Notes to the Introduction
1 2
The Book of Travels, Volume One Chapter One Chapter Two: My Departure from Tripoli in the Company of the Traveler Paul Lucas, in the Month of February 1707 of the Christian Era Chapter Three: My First Time at Sea with Paul Lucas, in the Month of May 1707 Chapter Four: Our Voyage to Egypt and What Happened to Us in the Month of June 1707 Chapter Five: Our Travels to the Maghreb in the Year 1708 Chapter Six: Our Journey to the Lands of the Franks in the Year 1708 Chapter Seven: Our Voyage to France Chapter Eight: Our Journey from Provence to France and the City of Paris
272
Notes Glossary of Names and Terms Bibliography Further Reading Index About the NYU Abu Dhabi Institute About the Typefaces Titles Published by the Library of Arabic Literature About the Editor About the Translator
283 293 301 310 314 330 331 332 337 338
vii
30 42 56 102 182 256
viii
ix
Foreword Yasmine Seale
One morning in October 1708, two men walk into a room at Versailles where King Louis XIV is waiting to receive them. Between them is a cage of curious animals: a pair of honey-colored mice with giant ears and long hind legs, like miniature kangaroos. The older man, Paul Lucas, has just returned from a mission to the Ottoman Empire, where he was sent to hunt for coins, gems, and other precious things to feed the royal collection. Among the loot he has brought back are these strange, alert creatures. The king wants to know more. Lucas boasts that he “discovered” them in Upper Egypt, despite their being very difficult to catch. (He is lying: in fact, he was sold them by a Frenchman in Tunis.) And what are they called? Lucas, unable to say, turns to the young man by his side. “I replied that, in the lands where it is found, the animal is called a jarbūʿ.” Of how many people can it be said that their first words to the Sun King contained the Arabic pharyngeal ʿayn? The pharynx, and the story, belong to Ḥannā Diyāb, a multilingual monk-in-training from Aleppo who, around the age of twenty, dropped out of the ascetic life to be Lucas’s assistant on his voyage—translating, interceding and, once or twice, saving his life—in exchange for the promise of a job in Paris. It was probably through Diyāb that gerboise, the desert-dwelling jerboa, entered the French lexicon. At the king’s request he writes down the animals’ name. At the request of the king’s son (“of medium height and quite rotund”), they are painted onto an enormous illustration of wild beasts. Then Diyāb is marched around the palace to be peered at, by princess after princess, until two in the morning. He peers back. The promise is eventually betrayed; after two years with Lucas and no job forthcoming, Diyāb returns home to Aleppo where he spends the rest of his life selling cloth—and, no doubt, telling stories of his adventure. Fifty-four years after the facts, unknowably transformed, he commits them to paper. Time is also a translator. After telling us about his encounter with the king, Diyāb adds: “Is it possible I could have retained perfectly everything I saw and
xi
Foreword
heard? Surely not.” It is the only moment in the memoir when he calls his own reliability into question, pointing to the half-century that separates the tale from the event. Yet The Book of Travels’ most astonishing scene, its perihelion, is also its most believable: the royal curiosity rushing to classify, the chubby prince, the little lie. You are reading Diyāb’s true story because of others he made up: Aladdin (spelled in Arabic as ʿAlāʾ al-Dīn), ʿAlī Bābā, a dozen more told to Antoine Galland over a handful of spring nights. These encounters, among the most consequential in literature, are recorded in a cooler key, offhand. Nothing could be more normal, less worthy of note than the telling and swapping of tales— “collaborative sessions,” as the editor of this volume aptly puts it. Aladdin, readers are sometimes surprised to learn, is a boy from China. Yet the text is ambivalent about what this means, and pokes gentle fun at the idea of cultural authenticity. Shahrazad has hardly begun her tale when she forgets quite where it is set. “Majesty, in the capital of one of China’s vast and wealthy kingdoms, whose name escapes me at present, there lived a tailor named Mustafa . . . .” The story’s institutions are Ottoman, the customs half-invented, the palace redolent of Versailles. It is a mishmash and knows it. Like Aladdin, like Aleppo, Diyāb’s is a story of mixture. He knows French, Turkish, Italian, even Provençal—but not Greek: in Cyprus, unable to understand the language, he feels like “a deaf man in a wedding procession.” Slipping in and out of personae, he is alert to the masquerades of others. Behind the European envoy’s mask we glimpse a con man: Paul Lucas travels in the guise of a doctor, prescribing remedies in exchange for treasure. He treats a stomach ache with a paste made of parsley, sugar, and crushed pearls. To meet the king, Diyāb has been encouraged to wear his native dress: turban cloth, pantaloons, dagger. But the calpac on his head is actually Egyptian, and his trousers cut from londrin—London or Mocha broadcloth, a textile made of Spanish wool, manufactured in Languedoc and exported to Aleppo by merchants in Marseille. His outfit, like his mind, bears a pan-Mediterranean print. In The Book of Travels he is forever drawing comparisons: between Lyon and Aleppo, Seine and Euphrates, Harlequin and Karagöz. Against the clash of cultures, here is a cradle; against the border, a lattice. Here is a Syrian’s view of France, a description of Europe where Arabs circulate and thrive, a portrait of the Mediterranean as a zone of intense contact and interwoven histories. This is also an old man’s account of what it was to be twenty years old, gifted and curious, somewhere new. Time has sharpened its colors. Its thrill is picaresque:
xii
Foreword
a tale of high drama and low ebbs, the exuberant perils of early modern travel. At a Franciscan monastery in Cyprus, Diyāb is kept awake all night by the grunting of pigs. He is eaten alive by mosquitoes in Rosetta, by lice in Fayoum; ambushed on the way to Livorno by corsairs who cry “Maina!,” lingua franca for surrender; abandoned to the whims of muleteers. Tobacco is smuggled in a mattress, a mummy in straw. Much energy is spent evading English pirates. In the long tradition of Arabic travel writing, Diyāb is different: he lets us in and keeps us close. Unlike Ilyās al-Mawṣilī, whose account of the Spanish conquest of America Diyāb seems to have owned, he is not a cleric seeking to secure his reputation. Nor is this a self-consciously literary document in the vein of ʿAbd al-Ghanī al-Nābulusī’s descriptions of his journeys through the Muslim world. There is no poetry in this memoir, no quotation. Its cadences are those of Syrian speech, its subject everyday emotions: fear, shame, astonishment, relief. Some of the most vivid pages concern a storm in the Gulf of Sidra, where Diyāb and his companions nearly drown. By the time the castaways reach land, their throats are so dry they cannot speak, and their food has turned soggy with seawater. For days they eat nothing but dates, then they are reduced to eating cats. When they finally reach Tripoli, after fifteen days without nourishment, and are given bread, Diyāb is unable to swallow it: “it tasted like ashes.” Then there are the fifteen icy days in December 1708, the coldest winter in five hundred years, during which tens of thousands froze to death. “Paris was a ghost town . . . The priests of the city were forced to set up braziers on the altars of their churches to prevent the sacramental wine from freezing. Many people even died while relieving themselves, because the urine froze in their urethras as it left their bodies and killed them.” Diyāb has to be rubbed from head to toe with eagle fat (another of Lucas’s remedies) and wrapped in blankets for twenty-four hours before he recovers sensation in his limbs. It is in these moments of plain, precise language that hunger, thirst, and cold—untranslatable pain—come through. Unusually for a travel writer, Diyāb is a working man. For all the pomp of the French court, his attention remains trained on those who, like him, labor invisibly: hospital workers who serve soup three times a day in tin bowls; nuns who launder clothes in the river; prostitutes whose doors are marked by a large heart made of thorns. Striking, too, is the sheer violence of everyday life. In Livorno he sees a soldier punished for desertion—nostrils slashed and forehead branded with the king’s seal. In Paris he goes to a courthouse to watch the trial of highway robbers, and to the public square to see them killed.
xiii
Foreword
A thought recurred as I read: you couldn’t make it up. While Lucas bathes rusty coins in vinegar to reveal their inscriptions, Diyāb probes the strangeness of the world. Miracles—magical causes applied to mechanical effects—jostle with the most daily phenomena. The true colors of things take on a hallucinated quality. If the Dauphin’s bestiary contains no jerboa, can his own eyes be trusted? If the remedy is bogus, but you were healed, what then? Scholars argue over how much of Diyāb is in Aladdin, where to draw the line between fiction and truth. This memoir smudges such distinctions by showing how fantasy is woven into life, how enchantment is neighbor to inquiry. At the opera, Diyāb is dazzled by stage contraptions. Knowing how they are built does nothing to lessen their magic. Mechanical causes with magical effects: this is art. Yasmine Seale Istanbul
xiv
Acknowledgments
Editor’s acknowledgments I wish to express my sincere gratitude to those colleagues who helped me during the process of preparing this edition and added to my understanding of the text and its context. Altogether, this work is the outcome of a physical and mental voyage over almost a decade. I wish to first of all thank Reinhard Schulze in Bern (Switzerland), who directed me to the scarcely studied group of texts written by Maronite travelers from Aleppo during the mid-eighteenth century. Leafing through Georg Graf ’s famous reference work, itself a time machine through early modern and modern Ottoman history, I noticed Ḥannā Diyāb’s text, attributed to “Anonymous.” That sparked my curiosity. In the years to follow and with the support of the University of Bern I was able to travel to Lebanon and to the Vatican to see The Book of Travels, as well as to Germany, to the Forschungsbibliothek in Gotha to consult manuscripts from Ḥannā Diyāb’s time. I wish to thank the Orient-Institut Beirut for their support during my stay as a researcher there in 2013. I was able to gain insight into numerous collections of manuscripts from the early modern period in Lebanon. My stay in Lebanon brought me in touch with the Bibliothèque Orientale at the Université de Saint-Joseph in Beirut, where employees Magda Nammour and Karam El Hoyek in particular helped with the consultation of manuscripts relevant to this project. Over the years of working on my PhD thesis on Ḥannā Diyāb and this edition I enjoyed informative conversations with Ibrahim Akel, Bernard Heyberger, Paule Fahmé-Thiéry, and Hilary Kilpatrick, among others, during my trips to Denmark, France, and Switzerland. All of them shared important perspectives on the material at hand. For help with the preparation of the edition I wish to thank Ziad Bou Akl and Enass Khansa as well as my students in Bern for sharing their impressions on the tone, style, and linguistic register of the text. Thanks also to Elias Muhanna and Michael Cooperson for the fruitful exchange and for the efficient collaborative process; the same goes for the whole Library of Arabic Literature crew for their support of this project. I also wish to express my gratitude to everyone at the Kalīla and Dimna – AnonymClassic project, where
xv
Acknowledgments
I currently hold a research post, notably Beatrice Gründler and Isabel Toral who are interested in the continuation of my research on the Middle Arabic register. Special thanks, lastly, go to my partner Feriel who during our holidays followed my geeky attempt to find the “Tower of Skulls,” without any doubt one of today’s most thrilling sights in Houmt Souk (Djerba, Tunisia).
Translator’s acknowledgments For Laila and Maya I wish to express my gratitude to the many individuals whose contributions have enriched this book. Johannes Stephan has been all that one could ask for in a co-author, and Michael Cooperson’s erudition and wit have improved our work immeasurably. I’m grateful to Paolo Horta for helping to interest the Library of Arabic Literature in the manuscript, to Philip Kennedy and the rest of the Editorial Board for their faith in the project, and to an anonymous reviewer for many helpful suggestions. Chip Rossetti, Lucie Taylor, and the production team have taken scrupulous care of our work. I would like to thank Professors Hilary Kilpatrick and Jérôme Lentin for introducing me to Diyāb’s manuscript many years ago. Finally, I thank my wife Jen, whose discernment has caught many an unmusical phrase, and my daughters Laila Rose and Maya, whose love has kept me whole when, as Diyāb would say, the world seemed to crowd in upon my miserable self.
xvi
Introduction Johannes Stephan
The author of The Book of Travels (Kitāb al-Siyāḥah),1 Ḥannā Diyāb,2 became known to Western scholarship more than a century after his death, when his name was discovered in the diaries of Antoine Galland, the great French Orientalist and translator of the Thousand and One Nights.3 Since that discovery, Diyāb, a Maronite Christian merchant and storyteller from Aleppo, has become a familiar figure to scholars interested in the textual history of the Nights. He has been described as Galland’s muse: The informant who supplied several famous stories to the French translation of the collection, including “Aladdin” and “ʿAlī Bābā and the Forty Thieves.” Until the early 1990s, few scholars were aware that in 1764 Diyāb had written his own travelogue.4 Because the first pages were missing, his work was catalogued as anonymous by the Catholic priest Paul Sbath, who came into possession of it at some point in the early twentieth century.5 After Sbath’s death in 1945, his family gave the manuscript to the Vatican Library, where it remains today. The work is an account of Diyāb’s travels, mostly in the company of a Frenchman named Paul Lucas. Starting in early 1707, from the vicinity of Diyāb’s hometown of Aleppo, the two journeyed through Ottoman Syria, then traveled across the Mediterranean to Paris, passing through Cyprus, Alexandria, Cairo, Fayoum, Tripoli, Djerba, Tunis, Livorno, Genoa, Marseille, Lyon, and the court of Versailles, among many other places. They arrived in Paris in September 1708 and lived there together for several months. In June 1709, Diyāb set out for home. His voyage took him first to Istanbul, where he lived for some time. After crossing Anatolia by caravan, he returned home to Aleppo in June 1710. Ḥannā Diyāb’s connection to the Thousand and One Nights has long tantalized scholars, and the publication of his travelogue may help shed light on that.6 But The Book of Travels is also significant in its own right. Among the topics it allows us to explore are Diyāb’s relationship to his French patron, Paul Lucas; different forms of oral storytelling proper to The Book of Travels; and the culture of Arabic writing in eighteenth-century Aleppo.
xvii
Introduction
The Aleppan Traveler and His French Patron For the most part, The Book of Travels centers on the relationship between an Aleppan working man and a French antiquarian, which began as a business agreement. In exchange for serving as a translator, Diyāb was offered the chance to accompany Lucas on a journey that would span three continents. The asymmetry of this master-servant arrangement reflects, in a way, the relationship between Catholic states in the West and the Ottoman Empire during the early and mid-eighteenth century, just as it portrays an ambivalent relationship between East and West. Diyāb’s relationship to his patron encompasses a combination of postures and affects, ranging from servitude, respect, and emulation to the occasional display of irony. For his part, Lucas, who also wrote an account of the voyage, does not mention Diyāb once. Apart from a few scraps of manuscript evidence, the only available record of Diyāb’s life is to be found in his travelogue, which also seems to be the only text he authored. Toward the end of the book, he indicates that he wrote it at the age of seventy-five. This means that he must have been born between 1687 and 1689, probably in the northern Aleppo suburb of al-Jdayde, a traditionally Christian quarter. The manuscript was completed in March 1764. It ends with an account of Diyāb’s final adventure with Lucas after the latter’s return to Aleppo in 1716. By then, Diyāb had begun a career as a textile merchant.7 Half a century later, when he set about writing The Book of Travels, he enjoyed a respected social position within the Maronite community of Aleppo.8 From the book we learn that he married a few years after his return, and fathered several children. He mentions his mother, but says nothing of his father. He does speak of his older brothers,
ʿAbdallāh and Anṭūn, whose correspondence with him during his travels suggests they were responsible for him.9 Another detail one may infer from the book’s first pages pertains to the Maronite community to which Diyāb belonged. Like other Eastern churches, it was undergoing a process of catholicization that had begun in the sixteenth century. Only a few years after the Council of Trent, in the late sixteenth century, the first Catholic missionaries established themselves in Aleppo and began to reformulate Eastern Christian rites and dogma. A decade later, the Holy See opened a Maronite college in Rome. This catholicizing of the Eastern churches, which peaked in the first decades of the eighteenth century, entailed the establishment of new teaching institutions, the proliferation of books and literacy, the introduction of a printing press, and the formation of the Melkite Greek Catholic church.10
xviii
Introduction
It was during this time of change that Diyāb set out, in 1706, for the Monastery of Saint Elishaʿ, the main residence of the Lebanese Maronite order. The order had been established in 1694 by the young Aleppans ʿAbdallāh Qarāʿalī, Jibrīl Ḥawwā, and Yūsuf al-Baṭn, with the permission of the patriarch Iṣṭifān al-Duwayhī.11 In founding the first indigenous monastic order based on a European model, these young men became important figures in the catholicization of the Maronite community.12 Hoping to become a monk, Diyāb arrived at a moment when the community was still in the throes of an internal dispute over hierarchy and doctrinal direction.13 The experience at Saint Elishaʿ and his meeting with one of the founders,
ʿAbdallāh Qarāʿalī (d. 1742), left a profound impression on Diyāb. He vividly portrays his reverence for the monks’ “angelic conduct” (§1.17) and for the orderly rhythms of monastic life. He soon came to feel, however, that he did not belong in the community. When at one point he fell ill, he received permission from the abbot to leave the monastery, under the pretext of convalescing in his hometown. Failing to find a job in Aleppo, he resigned himself to returning to the monastery. On his way back, he met Paul Lucas, a traveler “dispatched by the sultan of France,” and joined his entourage (§1.29). The “gentleman” (khawājah) Paul Lucas, as Diyāb first calls him, was born in 1664 to a merchant family in Rouen. Two years later, after serving in the Venetian army, he embarked on his first tour to the Levant.14 By the time he met Diyāb, he was in the midst of his third voyage to the East. Drawn by Diyāb’s linguistic skills, Lucas offered him the job of personal companion and dragoman on a journey across the Mediterranean world. In exchange, Lucas promised Diyāb a position at the Royal Library in Paris. The young Aleppan was intrigued by the offer, and quickly accepted, presenting himself as a traveler interested in seeing the world rather than a humble novice returning to his monastery. After making a few discreet inquiries about the Frenchman’s integrity, he agreed to accompany him on his travels. When they arrived in Paris, Diyāb lived with Lucas, from September 1708 to June 1709, waiting patiently to be hired into the position at the Royal Library, as he had been promised. When no such job materialized, Diyāb grew frustrated. In the meantime, he had made the acquaintance of Antoine Galland, whom he describes as an “old man who was assigned to oversee the library of Arabic books and could read Arabic well” (Volume Two, §10.9). After Galland arranged for Diyāb to be hired by a member of the French court to work, like his former master, as a traveler dispatched by Louis XIV, he decided he would leave the
xix
Introduction
French capital, but the offer of employment—like the library position he coveted—never came through. On his way home to Syria, he stopped for some time in Istanbul, where he worked as a valet and a housekeeper until he was urged by a friend to accompany him to Aleppo. Right after Diyāb’s return from his travels in June 1710, his brother ʿAbdallāh, with the help of an uncle, opened a textile shop for him. A few years later, Paul Lucas returned to Aleppo, sought out Diyāb, and reproached him for leaving Paris so rashly. After going on one last adventure together in the vicinity of Aleppo, the two men went their separate ways. Diyāb tells us that he worked as a textile merchant for twenty-two years, but gives no details about his life after he retired in his forties. The encounter with Lucas had a profound influence on Diyāb. It was common for Aleppan Christians in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries to work for (French) consuls, traders, missionaries, and travelers who formed part of the social fabric of the city. In fact, Lucas was not Diyāb’s first patron; like his brothers, Diyāb had worked for a dozen years, beginning before he was ten years old, as a domestic servant in the employ of various French merchants. His contact with Europeans helped him acquire a good knowledge of French, Italian, and Turkish. His association with Lucas also helped him to attain a prestigious position within his community. In the 1760s, when he wrote The Book of Travels, it was important to Diyāb to assert this prestige before his extended family and larger community. Lucas is accordingly mentioned in two of the book’s chapter headings. He doubtless also appeared in the now-lost first pages of the narrative, and perhaps even in the title of the book. In the first chapters of Diyāb’s travelogue, Lucas’s discoveries and his acquisition of artifacts—rare precious stones, coins, books, and a mummy, among other things—are the main focus of the narrative. Diyāb describes how Lucas offered to treat people’s illnesses in exchange for objects he wanted to acquire, something Lucas himself reports that he did. Diyāb mentions Lucas’s expertise in astronomy, geometry, philosophy, natural history, and other disciplines. He recounts how Lucas came to his aid on more than one occasion, such as when Diyāb nearly froze to death during the icy winter in Paris, or when he was arrested by the French gendarmerie. Given Diyāb’s apparently reverential attitude toward Lucas, it is noteworthy that the latter nowhere mentions Diyāb in his own travelogue. The young Syrian cannot even be discerned among the nameless servants and dragomans that Lucas happens to mention on occasion.15 This discrepancy between the two works can be seen in other ways. Diyāb offers a richly detailed account of the
xx
Introduction
logistics of travel, of the food they consumed, and of the different types of clothing he saw. Lucas’s focus is, rather, on sightseeing at ancient ruins, collecting antiquities, and describing his adventures, which include the occasional miracle.16 He excludes from his account the countries of Catholic Europe that so fascinated Diyāb, who describes them along with the parts of the Ottoman Empire that were largely unknown to Aleppans. Thus, although the itinerary described in the two travelogues is generally the same, only a few episodes correspond well enough to be fruitfully compared.17 One such episode is the story of the jerboas that Lucas presented to Louis XIV and his entourage at Versailles. In his account, Lucas offers a drawing of a jerboa,18 and claims to have witnessed a hunt for the animals in the desert in Upper Egypt.19 In Diyāb’s version of the story, we learn that Lucas had in fact acquired the jerboas at a French merchant’s house in Tunis. As he reports the lie his patron told the king, Diyāb gives his readers a glimpse of his own feelings about Lucas’s posturing. He also recounts how Lucas, unable to identify the exotic species for the king, turned to his companion for help. Diyāb knew the animal’s name in both French and Arabic and was able to write these down at Louis XIV’s request. The jerboas—a subject of great interest to the members of the royal court— served as Diyāb’s entry to the king’s private chambers. As he was paraded through the palace and its various mansions, carrying the cage with the two jerboas to present them to the royal family, Diyāb, dressed in a turban, bouffant pantaloons, and a fancy striped overcoat, and wearing a silver-plated dagger in his belt, came to be regarded as a curiosity in his own right. In Diyāb’s account, it is at this moment that he becomes the protagonist of his own story. By sharing with the French court his knowledge of the Orient, he outdoes his master, the supposed authority. Recollecting these events more than fifty years later, Diyāb reveals to his readers his patron’s unreliability, correcting the record of what Lucas attempts to convey about his own experiences. A further element of Diyāb’s relationship with Lucas is the medical knowledge he believed he had acquired by association with him. On his journey home, Diyāb used those skills to treat people in exchange for accommodation and food. Dressed as a European, he came to be known in Anatolia as a “Frankish doctor,” (Volume Two, §11.83) modeled on his master. Like Lucas, Diyāb recounts how rumors of his medical skill spread as he traveled through Anatolia, and that the masses flocked to him to receive treatment.20 However, while Lucas regarded himself as a genuine master of various treatments and procedures, Diyāb’s
xxi
Introduction
self-portrayal is decidedly less confident. He presents himself as overwhelmed by the difficulties of masquerading as a physician. His humility, confusion, and reliance on God’s guidance stand in clear contrast to the self-confident mastery Lucas ascribes to himself. Setting these two accounts alongside each other, one might read Diyāb’s description of his experience as a traveling doctor as a parody of Lucas’s account. But it is unlikely that Diyāb meant it that way. Whereas Diyāb mentions Lucas’s journaling and the fact that he had sent his book manuscript to the printer after arriving in Paris, it is unlikely that Diyāb read much of Lucas’s book or earlier notes. That said, he would have known Lucas’s perspectives on their shared adventures. The relationship between Ḥannā Diyāb and Paul Lucas was one of mutual dependence. Lucas was an antiquarian with little knowledge of Arabic and other Southern Mediterranean languages and literary traditions. His dependence on local Eastern Christian guides who could move flexibly within a Western Christian context is indisputable, even if that dependence was not reflected in his own accounts. On the other hand, Lucas seems to have served both as a source of personal protection and, to some extent, as a model for the young man from Aleppo. Diyāb’s interest in Lucas’s professional activities during the long journey to the “lands of the Christians,” as well as his emulation of his medical practices, mean he was not merely an “Oriental” servant to a French traveler, but also a Catholic familiar with global institutions such as the missionary movement and Mediterranean trade.
Oral Storytelling and The Book of Travels as a Frame Narrative By the time Ḥannā Diyāb met Antoine Galland, the latter’s translation of the Thousand and One Nights was already enjoying immense popularity in Parisian court society. The prospect of discovering new material to add to his translation must have excited the French Orientalist. Even so, Galland was scrupulous in his choice of what to publish, preferring to rely on written rather than oral sources whenever possible. At his disposal was a fifteenth-century manuscript of the Nights that he had received from Syria some time before meeting Diyāb. Using it and a few other written sources, he had completed eight volumes of his translation, at which point he ran out of stories. His first encounter with Diyāb, which took place on March 25, 1709, at the house of Paul Lucas, a colleague with whom he shared an interest in antiquity and numismatics, seemed promising.21
xxii
Introduction
After this first meeting, Galland recorded in his journal a description of the young man from Aleppo as a learned person who spoke several languages and possessed a knowledge of “Oriental” books. Diyāb told Galland about the existence of other tales, including those collected in The Book of the Ten Viziers,22 and promised to put some stories into writing. In a note written six weeks later, on May 5, Galland reports that Diyāb had “finished the story of the lamp.”23 Titled “Aladdin and His Wonderful Lamp,” this would come to be the most famous story in the Nights. It was only in November of the following year, however, that Galland explicitly refers to a written version of the story.24 Whether Diyāb had written it down himself while in Paris, dictated it to a commissioned scribe, or even sent it to Galland at a later stage remains an open question. Yet there is good reason to doubt that Diyāb wrote it down himself, at least during his time in Paris in 1709. He makes no mention of writing anything during his meetings with Galland, even though he stresses his ability to write single words, letters, and also, of course, his own Book of Travels. As for the Nights, he mentions only his oral contribution to the collection of stories, and that the old man was very appreciative of his service (Volume Two, §10.9). From Galland’s Journal we learn that after Diyāb performed or wrote down the story of “Aladdin,” the two met several more times. During their meetings, Galland took notes on stories recounted for him by Diyāb. These stories would become the basis of volumes nine through twelve of the French translation (published between 1712 and 1717), marking a break with Galland’s previous practice of relying exclusively on written sources. One might envision these meetings between Diyāb and Galland as collaborative sessions in which the former used both Arabic and French to convey the stories to the French Orientalist. Of these stories, only the tale of “The Ebony Horse” has an attested written origin beyond Galland’s notes. All the others can be identified only to the extent that they contain well-known motifs from oral folk narratives.25 As they do not have a written source, they have been referred to by scholars as “orphan stories.”26 Of the sixteen tales he heard from Diyāb, Galland chose to publish ten. These include “ʿAlāʾ al-Dīn,” the equally famous “ʿAlī Bābā and the Forty Thieves,” and “Prince Aḥmad and the Fairy Perī Bānū.” A further link between Diyāb’s Book of Travels and the Thousand and One Nights emerges from the narrative mode Diyāb adopts in his own book, one that makes ample use of embedded narratives—the central structural paradigm of the Nights and The Book of the Ten Viziers, as well as The Book of Sindbad the Sailor. Diyāb’s travelogue contains almost forty secondary stories, most of
xxiii
Introduction
them diegetically independent of the main narrative. Some consist of only a few lines, whereas others extend over three or more manuscript pages. The stories are a mix of historical and hagiographical anecdotes, although they also include a few tales of crime and horror. The narratives seem to stem mainly from oral sources, but a few have well-attested written origins. Among the popular earlymodern motifs that make an appearance are the figure of a person buried alive, the legend of the philosopher’s stone and the water of life, and reports of wonders such as the hydraulic Machine de Marly in Versailles and the Astronomical Clock in Lyon. Many of the stories are told at the point in the journey at which they were supposed to have taken place, while others are grouped according to theme. Diyāb uses the classical Arabic categories of khabar (“report” or “account”) and ḥikāyah (“story”) as generic frames to indicate independent narrative units. These units are also highlighted through the use of colored ink and textual indentions. As is typical of classical frame narratives, about one third of the inserted stories are introduced not by the primary narrator, Diyāb himself, but by the characters from the story world—that is, by the people Diyāb meets during his voyages. This telling of a secondary tale by direct quotation, though common in Diyāb’s narrative, is unusual in early-modern travelogues. A skilled storyteller, Diyāb drew upon a repertoire of narratives he had probably acquired from collective reading sessions in coffeehouses and elsewhere, as well as spontaneous oral accounts, and fashioned these along recognizable plotlines. It is likely that, standing in front of Galland, he performed in a manner similar to that described by Scottish doctor Patrick Russell: The recitation of Eastern fables and tales, partakes somewhat of a dramatic performance. It is not merely a simple narrative; the story is animated by the manner, and action of the speaker. A variety of other story books, besides the Arabian Nights Entertainments, (which, under that title, are little known at Aleppo) furnish materials for the storyteller, who, by combining the incidents of different tales, and varying the catastrophe of such as he has related before, gives them an air of novelty even to persons who at first imagine they are listening to tales with which they are acquainted.27 The way Diyāb employed the skills Russell describes becomes clear when we examine how he combines plotlines and details known from other narratives.28
xxiv
Introduction
For example, in one passage in The Book of Travels, he enters the home of a nobleman and sees a stunning trompe l'oeil painting of a man holding a bird that seems to jut out of the wall it is painted on (Volume Two, §9.41). He proceeds to elaborate on the theme by providing a biography of the artist (who may have been a Fontainebleau painter of the Renaissance school) in three episodes. In the first episode, a shoemaker’s apprentice falls in love with a princess. Her father laughs at the apprentice’s proposal but says he will give him his daughter’s hand in marriage if he can paint her portrait. The suitor agrees, and succeeds in painting a beautiful portrait that deeply impresses the prince. But the latter refuses to give his daughter to the apprentice, offering his second daughter instead. This breaks the young artist’s heart. He leaves the prince’s service, goes insane, and becomes a famous painter wandering the world. More than any other story in The Book of Travels, this episode exudes the spirit of the Thousand and One Nights.29 The prominent role of the image recalls the motif of falling in love with a portrait, which appears in Diyāb’s story of “Qamar al-Dīn and Badr al-Budūr” (omitted by Galland from his translation). Second, the motif of becoming an artist out of lovesickness appears in the Majnūn Laylā story cycle, which may have been familiar to Diyāb from Khosrow and Shīrīn, a Persian retelling popular during Ottoman times. Finally, demanding an impossible or difficult task of a suitor is a motif known from the fifth tale told during the tenth day in Boccaccio’s Decameron, a book that itself is believed to have been inspired by “Oriental” models of frame-narrative storytelling. In the second episode, Diyāb reports that the apprentice painter once painted on one of his master’s portraits a fly so realistic that the master tries to shoo it away. Though Diyāb presents this as part of the biography of the painter whose work he had seen, the same story is told by Giorgio Vasari (d. 1574) about Giotto di Bondone (d. 1276). To this episode Diyāb adds a third episode in which the painter, now named Nīkūlā, challenges his master to a contest of realism. The master creates an image of fruits so lifelike that birds come to peck them. But Nīkūlā wins by painting a curtain so realistic that his master tries to draw it aside to see the painting behind it. This story evidently stems from the one told by Pliny the Elder (d. 79) about the contest between the painters Zeuxis and Parrhasius. Both tales include a variant of the line attributed by Pliny to Parrhasius and given by Diyāb as follows: “It doesn’t take much skill to fool a few birds [. . .] Fooling a master painter like you? That takes some doing” (Volume Two, §9.51). Although the motif is attested in traditions other than the Greek, it may have come to Diyāb’s attention in France, since it was deployed by eighteenth-century
xxv
Introduction
European intellectuals in their theorizations of art.30 In his account of Paris, Diyāb mentions in passing that he had taken painting classes there. Diyāb produces these episodes and combines them into a whole at a moment in his travelogue when he has just narrated his confrontation with the trompe l'oeil painting in Paris. He is as amazed by this painting as he is by a realistic depiction of Jesus Christ in Livorno, and by the Paris opera stage, which is populated by real animals, convincing landscapes, and royal chambers. The common theme is art that can be easily confused with reality, but Diyāb’s accounts of such works appear in different places in the travelogue. Creating his own piece of art as a narrative, both in the Thousand and One Nights and in his Book of Travels, Diyāb combines motifs and known episodes, and adds new names and details to them, giving them “an air of novelty,” as Russell puts it. The orphan tales, most prominently “ʿAlī Bābā,” are novelistic and complex. “ʿAlī Bābā,” as Aboubakr Chraïbi has shown, consists of a parallel structure in which two plot lines converge.31 Admittedly, as Chraïbi notes, Diyāb may have modeled the orphan tales on originals that were already complex. Still, tales like “The Two Sisters Who Envied Their Cadette” and “Prince Aḥmad and the Fairy Perī Bānū” have the additional feature of combining tales of two different types into one. The story of “Aladdin” may be the result of a similar process.32 The frame narrative structure, the modeling of new tales on old ones, and the compositional style are all features that Diyāb’s Book of Travels shares with the Thousand and One Nights. Structurally, the parallels between the two books are grounded in the way the storyteller’s memory functions and in his manner of refashioning existing narratives and motifs. Although some features may be unintended, in general Diyāb’s storytelling in The Book of Travels reflects an oral practice mostly based on oral accounts. Yet, we know that Diyāb did not tell stories only from memory—he also owned books, and contributed to a new practice of travel writing that emerged in the 1750s and ’60s.
Writing an Autobiography in Mid-Eighteenth-Century Aleppo Diyāb was one of several Maronites and other catholicized Christians who composed accounts of their experiences in the Western Catholic world. Though interested in travelogues, he composed his Book of Travels very much as a personal narrative, and it consequently exhibits, both in plot and the perspective, specific features characteristic of autobiography.
xxvi
Introduction
We can get some idea of the literary models available to Diyāb by looking at his library. Besides his own Book of Travels, written at the end of his life, Diyāb owned at least six other books. Four are handwritten copies of devotional works: 1.
a Treatise on the Seven Deadly Sins and the Seven Virtues (Sharḥ mukhtaṣar fī al-sabʿ al-radhāyil wa-mā yuqābiluhā aʿnī al-sabʿ faḍāyil), translated from Latin, and bound in a volume dated July 1753;
2.
A Useful Book on Knowing One’s Will (Kitāb Mufīd fī ʿilm al-niyyah), another treatise on moral theology;33
3.
The Precious Pearl on the Holy Life of Saint Francis (al-Durr al-nafīs fī sīrat al-qiddīs Fransīs),34 a vita of Saint Francis Xavier (d. 1552), the founder of the Jesuit order, based on the account by Dominique Bouhours (d. 1702), and translated into Arabic by a Jesuit missionary in Aleppo, dated December 1753; and
4.
a four-volume collection of hagiographic tales (Kitāb Akhbār al-qiddīsīn) translated into Arabic by Pierre Fromage (d. 1740), dated between 1755 and 1757. The owner’s name, being partially struck out, is not entirely legible, but the handwriting of this codex resembles that of the works above, as well as that of The Book of Travels.
The two other books are travelogues, probably copied in the 1750s or ’60s, and bound in a single volume: 5.
a copy of The Book of Travels (Kitāb al-Siyāḥah) by Ilyās al-Mawṣilī (d. after 1692). A struck-off name deciphered by Antoine Rabbath (d. 1913) as “Ḥannā son of Diyāb” appears as a former owner.35
6.
an Arabic translation of the Turkish sefâretnâmeh by Yirmisekiz Mehmed Çelebi Efendi.
From this list, and from the way Diyāb’s name appears in the codices, one can draw a few inferences about his participation in the written culture of Aleppo. First, the codices establish him as an owner but not necessarily a writer of books. Second, the items in his library, which include translations from Western European languages, represent an ideological affiliation with the Catholic world and with the Western institutions of knowledge production and power he depicts in his travelogue. Finally, although Diyāb had other travelogues at his disposal, his own adopts a different and distinct mode of self-representation.
xxvii
Introduction
With respect to ownership, the name “Ḥannā ibn Diyāb” appears six times as the owner of a particular text. A few volumes state, using a well-known formula, that Diyāb had “obtained the book for himself from his own money.”36 A unique inscription in the copy of Saint Francis Xavier’s vita implies that Diyāb had “copied,” “transmitted,” or even “translated” (naqala) the book.37 It remains uncertain whether he copied his books himself, commissioned others to do so, or dictated them, along with The Book of Travels, to the same scribe. The layout of The Book of Travels suggests that it may have been dictated. Although a large portion is presented as a finalized codex, with colored and centered chapter headings and the same number of lines per page, almost every folio contains words that have been crossed out and replaced with others. Also, the oral and colloquial nature of the text smacks of dictation. The language is a register of so-called Middle Arabic, containing many dialect features as well as many loanwords from Ottoman Turkish and Italian. Although typical of oral storytelling, as with the popular epic (siyar) tradition, Diyāb’s language displays more variation than do other examples of Middle Arabic, notably the orthography, which is highly idiosyncratic: The same word might be spelled two different ways in as many lines. Such inconsistencies may well be the result of rapid writing that reflects actual pronunciation, and serves as a reminder of the story’s initial orality. Oral narrative, as Walter Ong has argued, displays greater redundancy than its written counterpart.38 In The Book of Travels, redundancy is evident on different levels, from single words to entire episodes. For instance, Diyāb tells the story of his mother’s recovery from melancholia no less than three times. He also recycles structural formulas such as “let me get back to what I was saying,” a characteristic of oral performance, to link successive episodes.39 In these respects, The Book of Travels resembles a performance by a public storyteller. Indeed, it may be the result of an extended performance that included some of the embedded stories. As for the Catholic element, some of Diyāb’s devotional books contain stories that resonate with the material found in his Book of Travels. The Precious Pearl, a multivolume collection of hagiographies, had served as a synaxarion, a collection of saints’ lives read as part of the liturgy. It had been translated into Arabic from a French composition that was in turn based on a Spanish collection of vitae, one for each day of the year. Short hagiographic stories proliferated widely in the eighteenth-century Levant. Around the time Diyāb set out for the monastery, the superior of the Lebanese Maronite order, and later bishop
xxviii
Introduction
of Aleppo, Jirmānūs Farḥāt (d. 1732), had just completed his rewriting of a Byzantine collection of hagiographic and other edifying tales from Eastern and Western Christianity. Titled The Monks’ Garden (Bustān al-ruhbān), this work garnered considerable attention.40 Diyāb repurposed the contents of The Precious Pearl for his own narrative, borrowing elements from the stories of Saint Genevieve of Paris and Saint Elizabeth of Hungary and merging them into one narrative. He refers to the biblical story of Saint Mary Magdalene and her fate in Marseille, and to the story of Helena of Constantinople, both of which also appear in The Precious Pearl. Diyāb seems also to have drawn on accounts of missionary activities, of which he was a great admirer, as he notes in several passages of the travelogue. His library included one such account, the vita of Saint Francis Xavier. A kind of spiritual travelogue, it recounts the attempt to convert Indians and Japanese to Catholic belief. Diyāb also owned a copy of the travelogue of Ilyās al-Mawṣilī, a member of the small Catholic Chaldean community of Iraq. Al-Mawṣilī’s seventeenth-century journey took him across France, Italy, and other European countries, with the aim of fostering connections and collecting money from Catholics there. After arriving at the Spanish court, al-Mawṣilī was offered the opportunity to travel to the New World, where he remained through at least 1683. Like Diyāb, he expresses awareness of being a curiosity in the territories he visits. Similarly, he presents his readers with the picture of a world divided between Catholics and native populations awaiting conversion.41 Both authors are interested in displays of linguistic knowledge, in acts of healing, and in the workings of charitable institutions. Each describes a meeting with an Ottoman ambassador, and each declares himself a recipient of divine guidance. Like al-Mawṣilī, Diyāb titles his account siyāḥah, literally “wandering” or “peregrination.” This is different from riḥlah (“journey”), a term used by many Muslim authors, but only rarely by Diyāb. A riḥlah is a journey undertaken with a clear destination or defined purpose; it also denotes a written account of such a journey. Siyāḥah, by contrast, emphasizes the activity of moving around, and also describes the practice of wandering that formed part of Sufi and Christian piety.42 The term siyāḥah may also suggest a protracted journey. The famous Ibn Baṭṭūṭah, who traveled for more than thirty years, uses the term several times. So do al-Mawṣilī, who traveled for at least fifteen years, and Evliya Çelebi, who spent his life traveling, and even seems to define himself by that activity.43 Yet, despite the conceptual similarities, the scope of the two books, and their strong Catholic impetus, Diyāb does not model his account closely on al-Mawṣilī’s.
xxix
Introduction
Whereas the latter’s travelogue consists of a terse listing of events and activities, Diyāb offers long descriptions and complex, embedded secondary narratives. Diyāb is a much more personal narrator who, unlike al-Mawṣilī, does not depict himself as an audacious adventurer, but rather as an inexperienced and God-fearing young man. In this respect, it is noticeable that Diyāb, especially when recounting his journey home, makes use of the relief-after-hardship motif, which is reminiscent of classical Arabic prose. The volume containing Ilyās al-Mawṣilī’s account also contains the embassy account (sefâretnâmeh) of Yirmisekiz Mehmed Çelebi Efendi, a travelogue by one of the most important Ottoman diplomats of the eighteenth century. His travelogue circulated in Aleppo, where it was copied several times.44 It seems to have been translated into Arabic in the 1740s or ’50s.45 A copy of it exists as a standalone codex in the library of Diyāb’s contemporary Ḥannā ibn Shukrī al-Ṭabīb (d. 1775), an Aleppan physician, who was himself the author of travelogues. In 1764 he turned the travel diary of his younger brother Arsāniyūs Shukrī (d. 1786) into a comprehensive travel account,46 and in 1765 composed an ethnographic account of Istanbul, which he had visited the previous fall. It is quite likely that Diyāb’s report of the Ottoman embassy is copied from that of Ḥannā al-Ṭabīb. Diyāb thus appears to have been part of a culture of sharing and reading travelogues, something that must have informed his own writing. For example, upon reading Yirmisekiz Çelebi’s account of his festive reception in Toulon, which included crowds of French people waving at him on the streets, Diyāb might have recalled being welcomed with great curiosity at the French court. Similarly, Yirmisekiz Çelebi’s description of the opera and other festive events may have reminded Diyāb of his own visit to the opera in 1709 and his attendance at a banquet of statesmen in Istanbul.47 Although he writes from a Catholic perspective, Diyāb nevertheless emphasizes the importance of European-Ottoman relations. He discusses an Ottoman ambassador’s visit to the French court, recounts his employment with the Venetian consul in Istanbul, and relates several stories about the cordial relationship between the governor of Tripoli (in North Africa) and a French deputy. His possession of the travelogues by al-Mawṣilī and Yirmisekiz Çelebi suggests an interest in the links between Istanbul, Aleppo, Paris, and other European centers of power—an interest he shares with his contemporary Ḥannā al-Ṭabīb. The Book of Travels is no meticulous description of distant places. Rather, it has the character of an early-modern adventure novel with some picaresque
xxx
Introduction
elements. Speaking of his experiences, Diyāb often employs the term qiṣṣah (story). From the passages where the term appears, one can track those parts of the travelogue that relate to Diyāb’s own story. These passages describe, first, the loss of his ties to his workplace in Aleppo, and his decision to travel back to the monastery; second, his encounter with Paul Lucas, who made possible the journey to Paris that takes up the bulk of the story; and third, the scheme by which Antoine Galland and a French nobleman, the Abbé de Signy, induced him to travel back to Aleppo. These three travel episodes form the main part of Diyāb’s wanderings and are encapsulated by the monastic experience at the beginning of the existing narrative and the final adventure that took place upon Lucas’s return. The main episode, which fills more than two-thirds of the 174 extant folios, is the story of an unfulfilled promise. It parallels the experience that befell many other travelers from the Levant in this period, including Niqūlāwus al-Ḥalabī (d. ca. 1661) and Salomon Negri (d. 1727), who were hired by Western travelers and scholars.48 During Diyāb’s travels, he encounters several such people—that is, catholicized Christians from the Middle East who somehow ended up in Europe, working as merchants, coffeehouse owners, and practitioners of other trades. Although some of these individuals succeeded where Diyāb did not, in the sense that they managed to gain employment in Europe, they too lament the difficulties of survival in their new home. By writing about them in his travelogue, Diyāb affirms his ties to these diasporic catholicized Middle Easterners. Throughout The Book of Travels, Diyāb refers to his own thoughts and emotions, though he often relies on formulaic expressions to describe his state of mind. To express despair, for example, he often uses an expression that means “the world closed up on me” (see §1.28 and Volume Two, §10.42); of interest is the fact that such moments of despair are often followed by a radical shift in the direction of the plot. And while he often expresses his delight at the beauties of nature or architecture (see §3.7 and §3.19), the emotion he experiences most often is fear, which he expresses in many different ways.49 Diyāb’s ability to produce a work that focuses on himself suggests that he was familiar with other autobiographical narratives. Whether in oral or written form, the autobiographies of figures such as the monk and bishop ʿAbdallāh Qarāʿalī50 and the nun and living saint Hindiyyah al-ʿUjaymī 51 were known in Aleppo during the 1740s and 1750s. Like Qarāʿalī and al-ʿUjaymī, Diyāb describes leaving his family to start a life of his own, and in doing so creates a particular perspective on the traveling younger self.
xxxi
Introduction
Diyāb’s narrative style merges the craftsmanship expected of a Thousand and One Nights storyteller with the conventions of travel writing popular among the catholicized Christians of his time. By embedding and framing personal narratives, Diyāb moves between different positions of perception. As he comments on his own actions, adds illustrative stories, and reproduces dialogue, the narrator alternates between proximity and distance to the story world. In this respect, Diyāb’s Book of Travels has much in common with the fictional narratives that appeared in Arabic during the nineteenth century. Like other works in Middle Arabic, Diyāb’s travelogue has been marginalized in the study of Arabic literary history. Works from the late-medieval and earlymodern periods, especially those in what has been termed Middle Arabic, have routinely been dismissed as illustrative of decadence and decline. But the travelogues of Ḥannā ibn Shukrī al-Ṭabīb and Fatḥallāh al-Ṣāyigh (fl. 1810, an Aleppan who traveled with Lascaris de Vintimille),52 to name but two, deserve, like Diyāb’s, to be read as Arabic literature—that is, read with attention to their oral narrative style, their patchwork character, and their autobiographical conventions, as well as their connections to other travelogues from the Arabic literary tradition. Thanks to the recent revival of interest in the Arabic textual archive of the early-modern period, Middle Arabic works are, fortunately, beginning to receive more attention. Reading them as literary constructions, rather than as examples of decadence and decline, will help us rethink the ways in which we write and understand Arabic literary history.
xxxii
Note on the Text
The Manuscript There is only one known manuscript of Ḥannā Diyāb’s Kitāb al-Siyāḥah (Book of Travels), preserved in the Vatican Apostolic Library’s Sbath collection under the class mark 254. The first ten pages of the manuscript are missing, judging from the numbers handwritten in brown ink on the first forty folios. In the absence of the opening pages, both Paul Sbath in his Catalogue and Georg Graf in the Geschichte der christlichen arabischen Literatur categorized the text as anonymous. This erroneous designation may explain why the text was disregarded until the early 1990s, when Jérôme Lentin identified the author as Ḥannā Diyāb.53 The binding of the codex is typical of Ottoman codices. It contains some fragments, including a page in Syriac script. Aside from the missing pages, which were evidently torn out after the book was first composed,54 and some water stains, the codex is relatively well preserved. Although it has some of the features characteristic of professionally prepared codices, it also shows signs of being a work in progress. As was typical for Diyāb’s time, the text is laid out in black ink interspersed with red for decorative and structural purposes. The first six chapter headings are centered and followed by a short subtitle in red. The subsequent chapters lack rubrication. The last sections seem to have been planned as chapters but are not marked as such, nor is there any room left for large chapter headings. On nearly every page, letters and words have been struck through or replaced. Most of the strikethrough lines are colored in red ink. Red ink is also used for scribal marks, such as the pilcrows that indicate the ends of episodes. Some of the lines bearing paragraph marks at the end are indented, as can be seen frequently after folio 45 of the manuscript. Another structuring device is the use of dots to mark the end of syntactic units such as interrogative sentences and to mark a change of speakers. With its subdivision into paragraphs and its protopunctuation, The Book of Travels is in some respects reminiscent of a modern book. The manuscript text, which ends on folio 174, is followed by a few names, such as the mention (given also in Roman script on the same page) of the book’s owner, Anṭūn Yūsuf Ḥannā Diyāb, probably the author’s son. On the bottom of
xxxiii
Note on the Text
the page that describes Diyāb’s journey from Marseille to Paris, a great-grandchild left an ownership note: “This account of the voyage of my father’s grandfather entered the possession of Jibrāyil, son of Dīdakūz Diyāb, of the Maronite community, on the 19th of April in the year 1840 of the Christian era.”
Previous Edition Min Ḥalab ilā Bārīs. Riḥlah ilā Balāṭ Luwīs al-Rābiʿ ʿashar. Edited by Muḥammad Muṣṭafā al-Jārūsh and Ṣafāʾ Abū Shahlā Jubrān (Beirut: Manshūrāt al-Jamal, 2017). This edition, the readings and annotations of which rely heavily on the published French translation (see below), follows a diplomatic standard—that is, it reproduces the original handwritten text as closely as possible. It does, however, normalize some spellings such as the tāʾ marbūṭah and omits some of the hypercorrective hamzahs. There are some typographical errors and omissions: misreading tajrīd for tajribeh, for example, and sometimes leaving out the colloquial bi- prefix of imperfect verb forms. Some terms, rarely attested in dictionaries, are not annotated.
Previous Translations French translation: Hanna Dyâb, D’Alep à Paris. Les pérégrinations d’un jeune syrien au temps de Louis XIV. Récit traduit de l’arabe (Syrie) et annoté par Paule Fahmé-Thiéry, Bernard Heyberger et Jérôme Lentin (Paris: Actes Sud, 2015). This meticulous rendering, on the basis of Lentin’s linguistic study of the text, is the result of collaboration by three expert scholars. The extensive apparatus contains linguistic explanations and historical remarks on the early-modern Mediterranean and Middle Eastern Christianities as well as original biographical material on individuals mentioned in the text. Both the introduction and the note on the language are detailed but accessible. The translation is often literal, but captures the liveliness of the original. We record in the English endnotes those places where our translation adopts a different interpretation of the original. German translation: Hannā Diyāb, Von Aleppo nach Paris: Die Reise eines jungen Syrers bis an den Hof Ludwigs XIV. Translated by Gennaro Ghirardelli (Berlin: Die andere Bibliothek, 2016).
xxxiv
Note on the Text
This is based on the French translation, the introductions of which it reproduces. It emends the French rendering in a few places. The wording of the translation is occasionally archaic. English translation: Hannâ Diyâb, The Man Who Wrote Aladdin. Translated by Paul Lunde (Edinburgh: Harding Simpole, 2020). This book was published four years after the death of the translator, who apparently never planned to publish it.55 Caroline Stone added an introduction to the volume with a focus on historical keywords. The English text, which is structured into subchapters and indented secondary narratives, is followed by an appendix containing historical information.
This Edition Our edition aims to preserve most of the distinctive features of Diyāb’s Middle Arabic text. Though often repetitive and marked by oddities carried over from oral performance, The Book of Travels is remarkably rich in its vocabulary, orthography, and linguistic variety, though the manuscript is generally unvocalized. Evidently, the author was familiar with the style of the coffeehouse narrator as well as with the conventions for telling stories in written form (see the introduction to the translation).56 Our paragraphing largely follows the structure suggested by the manuscript text, though we have added some additional breaks for the sake of readability, notably where there is a change of speaker (for example, from the general firstperson narrator to the speech of a character in the text, creating an embedded ً narrative), and when a transitional word such as ا ب��ة�راor ح�ب�ً�د �ة, or the frequently � ب ا �ب ب � ب � ا � � � � � � used formula � ر ب�� ا � م� ك�ح� �ة� ����ددهindicates a break in the narration. ع In dealing with the linguistic particularities of the text, we have relied on the studies of Jérôme Lentin, Elie Kallas, and Paule Fahmé-Thiéry.57 Also useful were Adolf Wahrmund’s Handwörterbuch der neu-arabischen und deutschen Sprache, which contains a whole range of vocabulary of Turkish origin and from Arab-Christian contexts, and Adrien Barthélemy’s Dictionnaire arabe-français, which is especially valuable for its coverage of historical Levantine Arabic.58 In cases where water stains and marks made by the author have left some passages difficult to decipher, we have often benefited from the reconstructions in the French translation and the previous Arabic edition.
xxxv
Note on the Text
The footnotes to the Arabic record marginal additions as well as a few significant passages crossed out in the manuscript or added to the borders of the page. They also note cases where we have amended rare scribal peculiarities, such as the omission or addition of consonants. The Book of Travels is one of many works composed in so-called Middle Arabic—that is, in a written form that diverges from the standard fuṣḥā (“pure speech”).59 It is often imagined to be the result of a failed effort to use the formal literary register. In reality, however, it is a semi-standardized idiom that was used at least until the advent of print culture in the nineteenth century, and that probably appeared along with Arabic book culture a millennium earlier. It combines elements of the standard grammar and lexicon with elements impacted by or stemming from the Arabic dialect spoken by the given author or scribe. It also contains hypercorrection—that is, the introduction of features mistakenly believed to represent standard forms.60 Middle Arabic texts vary widely, with some containing only minor spelling variation and others diverging markedly from normative orthography and grammar. Diyāb’s work falls at the furthest end of the spectrum from standard Arabic. A description of some of the distinctive features of Diyāb’s text follows.61 In the realm of orthography and phonetics, final a may be written with an alif ة ()ا, a dotted alif maqṣūrah (�) �ة, a tāʾ marbūṭah ( )ه, or its undotted form ()ه. Cer� tain lexemes are contracted: For example, the verb �ة�ا �لwith a personal suffix fre� � ة quently loses its alif (if it has one) and is written as one word, as in ����� (for �ة��ا �ل ��ة, ة � � ة “he said to me”) and ( ���ل ب��اfor �ة�ا �ل �ل ب��ا, “he said to us”). In other cases, verbs receive an �� �( ا � كfor additional alif due to vocalization, as in spoken colloquial, including �ح��ا ��ة �� � ة ة ب ب � � � � � � � � �, “he told me”) and ( ا ��ربجfor ��ربج, “to look at”). Second- and third-person �ح�� ة plural imperfect forms appear without -ūn and are frequently written with an ب alif wiqāyah as if they were subjunctive forms, e.g., “( ب�لة���ر��� اوyou know”). The tāʾ marbūṭah is used interchangeably with tāʿ maftūḥah in construct, �� ة �“( ا كthe port of Sidon”), as in the Ottoman-Turkish loanword ıskele: ����دا ��س��ل� � ة and strikingly when tāʾ marbūṭah is used for the suffixes of third-person and ة ة “( ا � ةstayed”). � اfor ��س��ة��ا �م ة occasionally first-person perfect verb forms, e.g., ���س��ة��ا �م
In several cases, a hamzah appears where standard orthography does not call أ بب for it, e.g., ( ا �ب�ا ءfor �� اب, “to refuse”), and sometimes “( �ر�����ا ءFrance”), among other
names. As they are repeated several times, these must be hypercorrections rather than arbitrary additions. Another feature specific to Middle Arabic is the partial or full interchange-
ability of dental sounds, which may be pronounced and spelled differently from
xxxvi
Note on the Text
the fuṣḥā standard. This interchangeability may be, but is not necessarily, the result of interference from colloquial. However, other deviations from fuṣḥā require writing an entirely different letter and are therefore more likely to reflect ب بب colloquial forms. For example, the letter ṣ ( )��صis often replaced by z (�), as in ���ة�ر (conforming to the Levantine pronunciation of ��ب���ة�ر, “small”). The characters p (� ) پand ç ( �) پ, used to write Ottoman Turkish, occur a ج � few times in the text, e.g., “( ا �لپ��ا �پ�اthe pope”) and ���و ب���د ��ة ��“( پvalets” or “servants”). To spell loanwords containing those sounds, Diyāb prefers to use the characب ters b (� ) بand j (� ;) بj (� ) بis interchangeable with z (�), as is the case in spoken ج ج � ب ّب Arabic when both sounds occur in one word, e.g., �و�ه � ( ة بfor ����ةر�و ب, “he marries him off ”). In any event, the spelling of loanwords and names is highly variable. For example, Diyāb renders Paris as ( �ب��ه��ة برBahrīz) and ( �ب��ه�ة���صBahrīs), but rarely as the expected ( �ب�ا �ة���صBārīs). As pronounced in Levantine dialects, imperfect verbs are often written with ة the prefix b-, as in “( ب�لة��د ب���لhe enters”) and �“( �ب�ة�ر���ع بhe is scared”); in some cases, � �ع�م�ا ��ل�� بare used to indicate simultanebi- indicates the future. The particles �ع�م�ا �لor ةص �ب ب ا �ع ا � ب � ب بة ous action, e.g., “( راء �� �م� �ل��ةص م�س���داhe saw us having lunch”). Traces of Diyāb’s Aleppan dialect include m- instead of b- for the first-person plural of the imperfect, ة as in “( � بم�سب���داwe eat lunch”), and the replacement of the initial yāʾ with bi-, as in ب ب � ة �� “( �ب �� ��و�لhe says”).62 Demonstrative pronouns ( ���د ا, ���د ه, ) �ه�أو�ل�ءpreceding the article contract with it to ����ل, which is written as an independent lexeme and is not to be confused with the interrogative ����ل.
Diyāb’s specific lexicon includes many frequently used verbs that differ from � the standard in meaning or form, including the colloquial �“( ب��ا بto bring”), ا �ب�ب����س ��ط �� � ش ا �ب (“to be or become happy”), � ���� (“to see”), “( ح�طto put”), and the partial aux� “( ا � ةto remain or continue”). In many cases, Diyāb prefers the fuṣḥā iliary � �س�ة��ا م standard over the colloquial form.63 He typically uses the standard Arabic verb � ب � �“( س���ةto walk or go”), for instance, instead of the typical Levantine �اجor the ب standard �د �ع ب, though these do appear. Most of the syntactic peculiarities in The Book of Travels have to do with
agreement between masculine and feminine or singular and plural. These peculiarities remain within the typical range of Middle Arabic.64 Common deviations from standard Arabic include: • •
�ب � � ( كinstead ���ة������� ا � ك indefinite adjectives following a definite noun, as in ل��ب��ة�ره � �� �ب �ة �� � ة � � ا ك �ل �ة������ ا ك, “the big church”); of ل�ب��ة ره
genitive construction (iḍāfah) in which both nouns are occasionally defi� � � � � nite, as in ( ا � �بر� ��ط�ا ة� ا �لة���ة بصfor ��ب� ��ط�ا ة� ا �لة���ة بص, “the bundles of tobacco”); xxxvii
Note on the Text
• •
inanimate plural nouns with a masculine singular or a plural form, as in ش ا �� ة ش ا �� ا � �( ��سب�� ب�لة���ك ك�ب�حfor ��سب�� ب�لة���ك كب���ة�ره, “large windows”); ب ة �����د ه ا ��لب lack of agreement for demonstrative pronouns, such as � �ح�ا (for أ � � ��لة �ّح�ا � ا � � ء , “these merchants”). ه � � ل � � و ب This Translation
Our aim has been to produce an English rendering of this work that captures the voice of Ḥannā Diyāb. The author’s gifts as a storyteller—only tantalizingly suggested by his famous involvement with the history of the Thousand and One Nights—are in evidence in The Book of Travels, where he documents his journey across the Mediterranean with dramatic flair. The linguistic register varies across the work between a conversational Levantine vernacular and more formal varieties of Arabic. We have attempted to approximate the vernacular quality of Diyāb’s language, particularly in the dialogues, without rendering it overfamiliar. In the interest of making the translation accessible, we avoid transliterating Arabic words. Only in rare cases do we retain a word without translating it, such as when Diyāb glosses a word he suspects might be unfamiliar to his readers. With some multivalent words, we refer readers to the Glossary while translating the term differently according to the context, for instance caravansary, hostel, inn, and market for khān. Indeed, we have not insisted on translating a word the same way each time it is used, for instance rendering bustān as garden, orchard, and meadow; sarāya as palace, pavilion, mansion, and embassy; and aghā as officer and commander. Likewise, we render the term al-sharq as “the Orient” when it is used by Lucas and other Frenchmen. In all other cases, we translate it as “the East.” We have also taken the liberty of rendering some of Diyāb’s formulas in slightly different ways, for the sake of variety. For example, his favorite narrative cue following a lengthy digression is the phrase “We now return to what we were discussing” (wa narjiʿ ilā mā naḥnu bi-ṣadadihi), which we render as “But let’s get back to our story,” “As I was saying,” and the like. We confine our endnotes to points of clarification. Readers interested in additional information are referred to the fine French translation by Paule FahméThiéry, Bernard Heyberger, and Jérôme Lentin, whose work has enriched our own.
xxxviii
Notes to the Introduction
1
Since the first five folios of the MS of the work are lost, we based our choice of Kitāb al-Siyāḥah as the title on Diyāb’s frequent use of the word siyāḥah (on which, see below).
2
His full name is Ḥannā ibn Diyāb (Ḥannā son of Diyāb), but Ḥannā Diyāb has become current in English.
3
Zotenberg, “Notice sur quelques manuscrits des Mille et Une Nuits et la traduction de Galland,” 194.
4
The sole exception is Lentin, “Recherches sur l’histoire de la langue arabe au ProcheOrient à l’époque moderne,” 1:48–49. After Lentin’s discovery, the first comprehensive nonlinguistic studies of the text are Heyberger’s introduction to Dyâb, D’Alep à Paris, and, from a literary perspective, Stephan, “Von der Bezeugung zur Narrativen Vergegenwärtigung” and “Spuren fiktionaler Vergegenwärtigung im Osmanischen Aleppo,” both 2015.
5
Sbath, Bibliothèque de manuscrits: Catalogue, 1:122, previously published with a slightly different description in his “Les manuscrits orientaux de la bibliothèque du R.P. Paul Sbath (Suite),” 348. See also the reference to the travelogue in Graf, Geschichte, 3:467.
6
Notable are the recent works of Bottigheimer, “East meets West: Hannā Diyāb and The Thousand and One Nights”; Marzolph, “The Man Who Made the Nights Immortal”; and Horta, Marvellous Thieves: Secret Authors of the Arabian Nights.
7
Lucas, Troisième Voyage du Sieur Paul Lucas dans le Levant, 101–2.
8
Heyberger, introduction to Dyab, D’Alep à Paris, 9, uncovers a source which reveals that in 1740, Diyāb was head of a household of twelve persons. A 1748 petition to the Maronite patriarch to protect the Aleppan monks has his signature as well as those of other family members (Fahd, Tārīkh al-rahbāniyyah, 147).
9
See Heyberger, introduction to Dyab, D’Alep à Paris, 9, on the father, who probably died when Diyāb was young.
10
See the concise overviews in Raymond, “An Expanding Community: The Christians of Aleppo in the Ottoman Era,” 84; Masters, Christians and Jews in the Ottoman Arab World: The Roots of Sectarianism, chapters 3 and 4; and Patel, The Arab Nahḍah: The Making of the Intellectual and Humanist Movement, chapter 2. On the proliferation of books, see Heyberger, Hindiyya: Mystique et criminelle 1720–1798, chapter 2.
11
Qarāʿalī, “Mudhakkirāt,” 24–26.
xxxix
Notes to the Introduction 12
Heyberger, Les chrétiens du Proche-Orient au temps de la réforme catholique, 110–11 and 434.
13
See the account in Qarāʿalī, “Mudhakkirāt,” 32ff. on this matter; also cf. Heyberger, Les chrétiens, 434.
14
On Lucas’s family and early travels, see Omont, Missions archéologiques françaises en Orient aux XVIIè et XVIIIè siècles, 317ff., and Commission des Antiquités, “Note.”
15
E.g., Lucas, Deuxième Voyage du Sieur Paul Lucas dans le Levant, 169.
16
For examples, see Horta, Marvellous Thieves, chapter 2.
17
Other episodes include the account of a visit to ruins near Kaftīn and of bathing at Hammam-Lif in Tunisia (§§1.35–36 and §5.94).
18
Lucas, Deuxième Voyage, 53.
19
Lucas, Deuxième Voyage, 197–98.
20
Lucas, Deuxième Voyage, 117.
21
Galland, Le journal d’Antoine Galland (1646–1715), 1:290.
22
Galland, Journal, 1:358.
23
Galland, Journal, 1:321.
24
Galland, Journal, 2:253.
25
For a comprehensive list of Diyāb’s stories, see Marzolph, “The Man Who Made the Nights Immortal,” 118–19.
26
Gerhardt, The Art of Story-Telling: A Literary Study of the Thousand and One Nights, 14–15.
27
Russell, The Natural History of Aleppo, 1:148–49.
28
Van Leeuwen and Marzolph, Arabian Nights Encyclopedia, 425.
29
Among the tales Diyāb told Galland is one about a prince who falls in love with a portrait. Here Diyāb may be reversing the motif: Instead of falling in love with the subject of a portrait, the hero paints a portrait out of love.
30
See the quotation and explanation in Görner, “Das Regulativ der Wahrscheinlichkeit: Zur Funktion literarischer Fiktionalität im 18. Jahrhundert,” 92; and the study by Peucker, “The Material Image in Goethe’s Wahlverwandtschaften,” 197–98.
31
Chraïbi, “Galland’s ‘Ali Baba’ and Other Arabic Versions,” 166.
32
See Sadan, “Background, Date and Meaning of the Story of the Alexandrian Lover and the Magic Lamp.”
33
Syrian Catholic Archdiocese of Aleppo, Ar 7/25.
34
Université Saint-Joseph MS BO 645. I am grateful to Ibrahim Akel, who directed my attention to this and the previous manuscript and thus helped confirm the hypothesis that Diyāb was an owner of several books.
xl
Notes to the Introduction 35
See note in Université Saint-Joseph MS BO 29, fol. 2r, and in the Preface to his edition, “Riḥlat awwal sāʾiḥ sharqī ilā Amirka,” 823, and further Matar, In the Lands of the Christians: Arab Travel Writing in the Seventeenth Century, 48. Ghobrial, “Stories Never Told: The First Arabic History of the New World,” 263n8, suggests that Diyāb is the copyist of al-Mawṣilī’s book.
36
E.g., Université Saint-Joseph MS BO 594, 298v.
37
Université Saint-Joseph MS BO 645, 132r.
38
Ong, Orality and Literacy: The Technologizing of the World, 39.
39
Ott, “From the Coffeehouse into the Manuscript,” 447.
40
On the Bustān see Graf, Geschichte, 3:413.
41
Ghobrial, “The Secret Life of Elias of Babylon and the Uses of Global Microhistory,” 66.
42
In the Islamic context, as shown by Touati, Islam et voyage au Moyen Âge, 187–91, siyāḥah refers to long desert journeys undertaken in order to seek mystical union with God. In the Christian context, siyāḥah means being a hermit—that is, a wandering monk who lives in remote places and practices piety.
43
On Evliya Çelebi and his books, see Özay, “Evliyâ Çelebi’s Strange and Wondrous Europe.”
44
See Krimsti, “The Lives and Afterlives of the Library of the Maronite Physician Ḥannā al-Ṭabīb (c. 1702–1775) from Aleppo,” 206.
45
The Arabic manuscripts of Yirmisekiz Mehmed Çelebi’s sefâretnâmeh found in the households of Diyāb and Shukrī are falsely attributed to one Saʿīd Bāshā, very likely Mehmed Çelebi’s son, Mehmed Said Paşa, who returned from Paris in 1742. A list of the gifts for the French king is attached to Arsāniyūs’s travelogue (MS Gotha arab. 1549, 215v).
46
Cf. Krimsti, “Arsāniyūs Shukrī al-Ḥakīm’s Account of His Journey to France, the Iberian Peninsula, and Italy (1748–1757) from Travel Journal to Edition.”
47
On Mehmed Çelebi’s account, see Göçek, East Encounters West: France and the Ottoman Empire in the Eighteenth Century.
48
Ghobrial, “The Life and Hard Times of Solomon Negri: An Arabic Teacher in Early Modern Europe,” 311, 331; and Kilpatrick and Toomer, “Niqūlāwus al-Ḥalabī (c.1611– c.1661): A Greek Orthodox Syrian Copyist and His Letters to Pococke and Golius,” 15, 16.
49
These include khawf (fear), fazʿ (fright), and tawahhum (apprehension).
50
Qarāʿalī, “Mudhakkirāt.”
51
See the edition in Al-Mashriq by Hayek, “al-Rāhibah Hindiyyah (1720–1798),” and further Heyberger, Hindiyya. For an English translation, see Hindiyya, Mystic and Criminal.
52
See the recent edition of Al-Ṣāyigh, Riḥlat ilā bādiyat al-Shām wa-Ṣaḥārā l-ʿIrāq wa-l-
ʿajam wa-l-Jazīrah al-ʿArabiyyah.
xli
Notes to the Introduction 53
The only earlier reference to the text appears in Martin’s short 1979 piece “Souvenirs d’un compagnion de voyage de Paul Lucas en Égypte (1707),” which uses it as a source for contextualizing the early modern history of French archaeology.
54
See Fahmé-Thiéry, “L’arabe dialectal allepin dans le récit de voyage de Hanna Dyâb,” 223.
55
Stone, “Foreword” in Diyāb, The Man Who Wrote Aladin, viii.
56
Cf. also Lentin, “Note sur la langue de Hanna Dyâb,” on this matter.
57
Lentin, “Recherches,” Kallas, “The Aleppo Dialect According to the Travel Accounts of Ibn Raʿd (1656) Ms. Sbath 89 and Ḥanna Dyāb (1764) Ms. Sbath 254,” and Fahmé-Thiéry, “L’arabe dialectal.”
58
Also very useful in preparing both the text and the translation were Dozy’s Supplément aux dictionnaires arabes, Redhouse’s Turkish and English Lexicon, and Graf ’s Verzeichnis arabischer kirchlicher Termini as well as al-Asadī’s Mawsūʿat Ḥalab al-muqāranah.
59
This term was known to Diyāb, who speaks of “pure language” (al-ʿarabī al-faṣīḥ) when recounting one of his encounters in Paris.
60
On this tripartite division of features see Lentin, “Middle Arabic,” and further Blau, On Pseudo-Corrections in Some Semitic Languages.
61
The full description of linguistic features will appear independently in a scholarly edition with the Library of Arabic Literature.
62
See Kallas, “Aleppo Dialect,” 30–31.
63
Lentin, “Note,” 49.
64
See Lentin, “Recherches,” vol. 2, especially chapters 12–14, 18, and 19.
xlii
��ة ا ا �� ا � �ة �ك��ح� ب� ل���حة�� �ح �� ّ � �أ ّ � ا بم ���ل��د ا �ل� �ول
The Book of Travels Volume One
� �أ �ب ��ح��ل ا �ل��ّو�ل1 ا � ���� � ا � �ة ب � ا �� ا ب ا�ا� ة � � ب � � ب � �ب ا � ة �ة ب ا ة � � � ب ا� ب ب � � ...م� ة��د ���� ��ة ر ر�هب�� � �و بم���دة�ةص �ل� ��ة ر � �س���م�� �ل��لك ا �ل�لة���ل�� ��ة� ا�م��ر �و�ل ا �ة� م � ا � ب با � � � ب ا �� �ة � ة ب ة ب ة ا ا ا ا ب � � � � �� �ر� ا � ����د ا ��ص � ������ل ا �ر��� د �� �� ا �� �ل�ة�ل��� كب����د �م� كب��ل�� ا �ة� د �ة�� ا �� ����ا � � بو�����د �م� ح� � ب ة ةص ج ا � ب ا ب� ب � ة � ب � ب ب ة ح� �بك�ب��ا � او �� �ب�ا ��ا ب��ل ���ل�و��ص �و�����ده �����ا � ة����� �ل�� ا ل ك� ��ا � �ل ب��ا ب�لة��� ا �ر� بع�ب��� ���ة���ل ب��ا �ل�� ���د ه رب ا �����ر� ب ة ب ّٰ ب ة� � � ب �� ب ب ا ب �ب�ة��ة�ب��ا �م بص �ةكب���ل ب�ر�و ب� � � او �ل�� � �� � �و���� ��ة��� �� ح ب��ا �م بص ���ل ب� ب���ة���ل ب��ا ا لل� ة�لب��ا �ك ���لة� �� � ل� �ع��د �� ��ة� � ة ب � � ة ب ا �ة ا �ب ب ب ا م � � ب ل��� م �ة��ع � ام ب � ش ��ش �ة ة �� ��� ��ل �� ا �ل��د�ةر ا ب������� ا �ة�ا �م �����ا � �ع ب��د �� �م����ل�و�م ب�����ة ر�ل�� �و � ��و�ل�� � او �ل�� بةبح ب� �م�ل� او ��ة� � م ا ب ا �ة�ب � ب� ب ة � ة ب ط� � �� ب � ة ب �� � � � � � � ���� د ا �ة�� �لة�����ر�� ا ���را �� ��� � � �وة��� ب��ا �و���وا ا ا م � ك � د ه ح � � � �� � � ��� � م ص � � � � و لو ا �ة� �م� ٢و�كة � م ة ر وة ة ة م ة ا ا� ة ب ة� � ة ا ب ب � ب �� � �� �� ا� ة ب ً ة� ا �ل���� ار � ا�م���د����� .ا ��ة�را ب�ل��لب����س� او �لة�� ب� ا� بم���د �ة��ةص �و�م��س��� او �� � ��و� ا �ر� بع���� �مك� �ه�و م��س�طر ب � ب ��ة� ����ل ���را �ه. �ب � � ا �� �� ا ����� � ة ب ل��� � ا � � ب ا � ا ب� ح�ة� ���د ���س���ا � بو�����ده د ��� �م�د �بر ا �ل��د�ةر ا �ل��د �ة� � � او �ع ��ط� � ك�ل و ��د �م�� ��ر و ربج � ���د �م ب��ا �ة�ل�� ��� � ��ا ك ���ل�ب��ا �ه�و �كة�� �ة ��و�� �مب� اب� ب ا ��لب �صود �ة� � او �� ه ��ا �ب�� ة����ل��� �� ك� ل���ل � او � ة وب � ر ب ص ة ص م � � ب � ب � � � ��ا � ���ل�� � ا �ة ���د �م ب��ا �م�بهة��ا � �م�ا ���ط� ه � ة��ل�� ��� � ل��ة� ا ا ا � �� ب�ك ب��ا �م� ا�م�د ��و� �� �ع ��ط� ك� ل���ل � او � و و� و ة و ب � او � ر ج ع � � � �س�ة� ب ا �ش �� �ش �ة ا ا � �ب ا ا ب ��ا ب ب ة ���ا �� ب �ل�� ��� ا �ش���ا د �ب�ا � �ة��د ��� �ب�ا ب �ا ��ا � � �م�� �ل � �ة� م �ة� � �رة� � و ب ةر ���� �وك�� � ا �رة���ص ���ةص �ل ب�� ك� ص ب ل � � �� � ب � ش �ش ة ا ة ب ب ا ة ب � ة ب ا � ب ا � � �ب ح��� � بو�����د ا �ل��ل� ��� ا �ة� �م ا ���ر�ك�� ا ���را �� �� �م �و�ل�� �و�ل�� ا �ل���� ار � ا �ل� ��� ة ��ة� ا ���و� ا �ر�و�ة ���� ا ع��ة� �ة ب � ا � ��� �ر�ا � ا�ام�ة��د ��ص. ب �ا ب �� ا ب � ب ا � � � � � �� � اة� ا �� �ه��ا ب� ب���ة��د � ��� ا � ��لً�� �ة�م��� � ب�كصة � � � � ا ل م� ا � ��ده � م�د � � � د د � � ل � ك � � � بو بر ةر ة� ج رب وب م ة� و ة ص و�ة �� � �كةب ا ب ب ا � ��� � � �ع ا � � � �ب �� ده � ب �ب ا ��ل ��ب � � �ةك � �� ا � � � ب �ش ا ��ش و �ب�� � �� م �مة��ك و ب�� ة� �صو� �سو و�� � ة � وعرة�� �سود ود و�ة ص ��� ص � ة � ب ب � ب� ش ب ��س�و �ع������ ��� ���ة� � �وب��د ا ��ص ة�ر�ة����� ا ��س�ود. حة�ب�ً�د ���� ا�ام�د �بر ا�ام�د ���و� ا �����ل � �م بص �ص�و�� �م ب � ة ج � ةب � � ش ا� ا ��لة� ة ة � ب �� ��� . �س�� �ة�� ا �ر�هب��ا ��ة� ا�ام�ل�� لة �� حة�ب�ً�د � �ر�� �ع�هب��ا �ل �م�ا �م ب���لب�������ك ا �ل�� ك � �ة�ا ا ��ة� � او �لب����ص �لة�� � ب ب ة ب ��بل ا � ب � م ا �ة ة �� � � ا� ب �ش�����ل ة ش ا � ا � ب ا ا �� ة ب � � ا �� ��ة �� ل � � ا � ا � ا ا � ا � � ك ل � �م � � م�د د � � � � � � � ح� �لة�� ب�ة� �ر�� �و لب���� � � � � � � � ل � س� � � ك ة و� وب ة ص م ة ص وب ة ج � أ ف ي أ أّ ي � 1ع ف��وا ف� ا �ل��ف�����ص�ل ف���ير �م�عرو�ف� ل� ف� ا �ل���ص����� � ال�ولى �م��ف����ي��ود � ٢ .ال��ص�ل :اي�ا. ح�ا
2
2
١،١
٢،١
٣،١
Chapter One
1 . . . their table were only the monks and the novices. We spent that night at the
1.1
inn, and after we’d attended mass the next morning, the abbot summoned us to his cell. We kissed his hands and he welcomed us, inviting us to sit. Once we were seated, he asked if we had any interest in joining the order. We confirmed that this had been our intention when we left Aleppo. “May God bless you and your intention!” he said. “Now that you’ve spent four days with us at the monastery and gotten a sense of our way of life and of our rules, you’ll have to complete a three-day retreat. Each of you should examine his conscience during that time, and prepare himself for a general confession. You’ll then receive the holy sacrament, clothe yourself in novice’s robes, and adhere to the monastic rule, as spelled out in this tract.” He gave us each a booklet to study, and asked the steward of the monastery,
1.2
Father Yūsuf ibn al-Būdī, to provide us each with a cell.2 The abbot blessed us and sent us off with Father Yūsuf, who gave us each a key for our own cubbyhole and cell, and a prayer book. We spent three days performing our retreat. The abbot had designated a priest to offer us spiritual guidance, and when the three days had elapsed, we made our general confessions and received the holy sacrament, which is to say, Holy Communion. The steward of the monastery then took us into a storeroom containing the vestments of the monks. He presented me with a shirt, some drawers, a thick linen tunic, a black woolen cloak, a hempen belt, a black skullcap, two rounds of woolen turban cloth dyed a dark honey color, and black sandals with plaited cords. “Get undressed, brother, and put on these novice robes,” the steward said to me. “I look forward to the day when we dress you in the habit of an angelic monk!”
3
3
1.3
� �أّ � �ف ا � �ل���ص�ل ا �ل� �و�ل
� � ��ل���� ة س� �ب�� �ة ة � � � ا � ب � ب � ا �ل��� � ة ب ب ة ب � � � ب ب ا � � ب ب� ة ة ش و� ���م �ل�لك ا ���هب�� �ة�� ا �����لة� ��ط�� �مة������ �و�ر�ر� �ب��د �ل�ك ا � �ر� � ا �ل�لة ��� كب ��عة�� �م���ل وب � � � � ب ب ة ة ش ة � ة ة �ل��ا ��� ب ةص ا �ل�ةل�م�و� �عب��اب �ة� �م� بع�ة��� �و����ع� ا �ل ش����ا ��ص � او � ����ا �و �و�� �م بص ���� �ا ����ة� �و�لب����س� �ل��ل�ك بة ة � � � � � ب � � � ة ة � ة ب ة � ة ب ا ����� �ك��� ا �ل��س� ده � � ��ع� ة� �ل��ل�ك ا �ل ش����ا �ل�� ا ���ع�����ل��� ا ���ص� �� � �ل���� ة س� د �ل��ك ا �ل ب��د ا ��ص ا �ل��ر�ة�����. ة رة و وة و وب ة � ب ة ا � ة �ب ا �� ب ة ا �� ة ة ب م�د �� � �م ب بد ��ل��ك ا ���� �كة ة� �ب ب��� �ة��ل�ب� �م ب و ر ة� ص حة��ً�د �� �م�ل� �ة� �� �ة� �را��ة� �� �ة� �ب ��عة�� � ر و ص �ة ا � ��ش ب ب ا �ب � ة �� �ب �� ا �� �ع�ب��� � �ب��د �م ة ��ب��ر��ا �م�ا � ك ل�� � � �س��م ب�� �م�ا ب��ة��ب� ة� ���� �� �ة� ��ة� �مص ���د ا ا ل� � � ل � � � � � م � � � رب و � ص ة ة� ة� ة ً ً � ب ب � � ب ب � ب � � ب ب ة �ة ���ا �مش��� �م�ا �ل����س� ا ��ا � ك���ا � ا�ام�د �� ب���ل�ب� 1....ا ��� ا � ب� ب ا ب و � بو�����ده �لب����ص �كة��صة� ا �ة�� ل ب ةر ر ح�� �مص و� ة� � �اب ب � � ب �ب ب ا �ة � �ش � �و��ل ب��ا �ل�ل�بة� � �ر�� �و�ر� � او ب��مة�� ا �ر�هب��ا ب� � او�ا بم�ة��دة� بص �ب�ا � ��� او �ل ب�� ��� د � �ه ب��ا �ب�ا ب� � او كة��� ��و� ك� ���ة�ر �و�ه ب�ص �وب�ا. � � � ة ة ب ع ��� �م ب��ا د ب��� ة��ل�� �لة��� ا ��� ��� ب �م�ا ا �ب��د �ة� �ب�ا �ة�� ب ا ���ب���د ا ب��ب� ب ��ل ب��ا ا ��� ���� ة� ا�ا�م�ا ���ده �ب ا �ل ب��ا و� � بو�����ده ك��ل ل ة ة� ةص ر ة� ب ة ة رة � � � ا �� ��� � ب��م�� ا � �ه��ا ب� ب��م� �� ��� ب ��� ب ةص ب��د ب���ل ا �ر��� �و ب���ل�� ��ب� �ا ��ص ا�ا�م�ا �ة��ده �وة�لب�� �� او ا �ل�� ���� رة ص و ةع ر ب و ةص ص ة � � ب ب ة ة ب ب � ب م��ا ��� � �����د ��ه د ���ل� ا ا � �ه��ا � � ���ل��س� ا � ��هص� ا ا�ام�ة��د � ب � ا ������ ب �� ب ةص � بو�����د و ر ب و ب و ب ة و ب ةص و ك���ل �مص ب���ل��ص ��ة� � ك� بو م � ب بب � � ب �و��ل �ب�د ب���ل ب��ا �وك�� �ا ب � �ع ب � � �ة ل�� � ���ل �م ب��ا ب���ل�� ��� � ك� � بع�ةس���� ا د � ����� ا �رة���ص �ب�ا �ل��د �� م�� �� ا ��ة� ا ة�ل� �د �م بة ب��ل��ص صة م �� ا �� ب �ب ا� ا ش ��ش �ة �� ب �� �� ب ش �ة ة �� ش � �ب��و�ة� ا ��ل � �� ا � � � � � ا ا ا � � �ده � � � � ��د � � � � � � � �س � ط � � م � ح��� � او �و��ا ة� � � � ل ل � � صو ة ��د��ة� �و ةص ة� ة و و و و�ب � حص � ا ��لب حب� ش ا ب � ب � ب ش ا � ش � ب ة ب حب �ص ب� �و�م�ا � ش��س��� بد ��ل��ك �م ب ا ��ل � � ب �و ب� و ��ر � �و� �ة� � ��و� �لب���� � �و� �ل� � ��و� ���ةص � كب م�� �صو��ص �و ة ب ص �� ةب �� ة ب ب �ة ا � � ب � ���د �ب��� ش���رب� ��� �ة�د � �ة�� �وة�� �وك� ��ة��ب���. �ب� ب �د���ص � �وب��ةص ك��ل �ل���ةص ��س�وده ��ب��ة��د �وب� ��و � �ل �وك��ل � او � ة ة� � ا �� ة� �س� ب�� �� �ب� �� �ب�� �ب� ا�ا�م�ا ���ده ب��م�ا ب�� ��� �ة�� �م ب ا �� �ه��ا ب� ا ��ل�� بد � ب �م�ا �ة�� ا ����ا � ��ة�ً�ا و� ة م و ص رب ةص و ب �ة� � و و ة ة ب ب � ا� ب � ب � � ا ا ا ا ا ا �� �م � � � ح��� �و �� ا �را�م� �ة��ده �� � ك� �م�� � ك �وك����ل ب ب م�� � ���ل�وه ب�� �ل��ص �ا �ع ب� ��� ا ��س�م ��� � ب � م�� �صو ب� ��لة� ة ة � � ��ل ب �ل ��ة ا ا ب �ب ة � ب ��م ة � حب��ا � ا �ل ش��س���د ا �و���د ا �ب�ا ����� ا � ����ا د ��� ا �����ة�رح�م��ل�� �مك�� �ه�و �م����ل�و�م �ع ب��د ا ب��مة�� ���ل�م�ا �ا ��ة ة� ب ة�ر م ب � ع ب �ل� ً ب ة ب ب � ة ة ���د ا ا �ب�� ة � ��� � ش ��را �ر���ص �ب�ا � ا ب��مة�� ���ا � .ا ��ة�را �ام�ا ب��ة��ب�� ���د �م� �ع بص ا �ل� ك���ل � او �ل���رب� � �وب��عة�� �ب�� ة � ع � م��ا �ب�� � ����ب�� ب�ص ا ا ب ��ل ��م�� �م���� � �ل�����ل� ا ����ل� هة ا �ل ش ��� ����ب ��ب���� او ا ��ا د �ه� �م ب ا ��ل�� ك�� �� ب�� �م بص � ك� � � ��س � � بوة � � � ل ة � بو ة و و ب و ة م ص ر ص ة �ب ع � � � ب ب ة ب � ة � ب ا ا � ل � � � � ��� � او � ار �ع� ا �ل�د � ك�� � ب�لة��� ا بة ب� �ول�ة ب� �وا �م بص ا�ا�م�ا �ة��ده� . حة��ً�د بةل����� ا ���� ��ل��س� او ب��ة������د � او. �ر ب�� ب ة ر ب ب ب ج ة � � � � �ا ب ب � � ب ة ا ة ا ا � ب � �����ده ل�� بر � �ب� ب� ا �ل��د�ةر ا �� � ك� �رب� ا �ر���ص �و�م���� ب �مة�� ا �ر�هب�� � � او� بم���دة�ص ا �ة� � ا م�� � ة بو بة ج ة ع ة ب ب � � ��� ا ��ل��د � �� ا ب� ب��ا �ب�� �مب��� بل�����ل��س� ا � �مب ��� �ش�س ك� ��س او �و�لة� ك� ��� ب��ة����م ش � ���ل��� او �م� ب���� ب� � م ةب و و �����م ب������ص ��ة� � ل ة و ة ة� م بً �س�ة ����� ة �� اع � � ب ب���مب� �� ب ب � ة � ة ا � � � � � � ح��� � بوة ة�م� او �م���د ا � ����� ���� ��� .ا ��ة را ك��ل �و � ���م ة ��ة� ا �ة� ��د م � �م�د ا ��را � ��و ة ف أ � 1يى ال��ص�ل �م��ط��مو��س� :م ف�� ف����ي�ـ[.]...
4
4
٤،١
٥،١
٦،١
٧،١
Chapter One
I took off my finery and put on that crude linen shirt and the rest of the clothes. I pulled on the heavy, coarse robe and attached the belt. With my robes all puffed up, I looked like a lemon seller.3 Removing the turban and felt hat I’d been wearing, I put on the black skullcap, wrapped the honey-colored woolen cloth around it, and pulled the sandals on. I studied myself. What a sight! At that moment, my heart turned from
1.4
monasticism and I regretted what I’d done, but I was too proud to let my feelings show. My friend Çelebi [. . .] and we left the vestry together.4 All the monks and novices then came to offer their blessings upon us for beginning our initiation. They seemed delighted with us, and showered us with congratulations. We each entered our cell and remained there until the lunch bell rang. We
1.5
then went down to the refectory and found the abbot and the rest of the monks gathered outside it. The abbot entered first and sat at the head of the table, followed by all the priests, who sat at their places. Next, the monks entered and sat, while the novices remained standing outside. Finally, the abbot permitted the novices to come in. So we did, and each of us sat at his place, with the seniors sitting closer to the head of the table than the juniors. There were three sorts of food on the table: a soup with lentils, wheat berries, grains, and other similar vegetables and pulses; some curd cheese;5 and figs preserved in molasses. A bottle of wine and a glass were placed between each person and the next. Everyone drank to his heart’s content. Lined up along the shelves of the refectory were the skulls of dead monks,
1.6
each with the name of the deceased written on it. At one end of the refectory, a monk sat on a dais, reading aloud the stories of martyrs and the torments they’d suffered, whose intolerable horrors were known to all. I was shaken by this frightful scene, and couldn’t bring myself to eat or drink. Seeing that all had finished eating, the abbot would rise to his feet and everyone would stand with him and say a prayer of thanksgiving.6 Following that, all would leave the refectory, and the cook would sit and have lunch along with the monk who’d been reciting. The abbot would then take the monks and novices outside, passing through the gates of the monastery into a sort of gathering space.7 Some would sit and others would stroll, chatting about spiritual matters. They’d remain there for about half an hour, then each man would go attend to the duties appointed to him by the abbot. The tailor would go to his sewing, the cobbler to his
5
5
1.7
� �أّ � �ف ا � �ل���ص�ل ا �ل� �و�ل
� � ب ��لب ا � � ب ا � ة � � � � � حة�� � �ش�مب����ل ا�ام�ة���ل��د ب�كة��� �م بص ا �ر��� ا ع��� ا � حة�� ��ط ا �� � ��س��ا ب��� ��س��ا �ب� ا ��� �ش�مب����ل ا �ل ك� ���� � او �ل ك� � ة ة ةص ة ��ا �لة��� � ا ��ل�� ة�ا �ب ا �� ������ةب�ة��� � �م�ا � ش ��� بد �� � �م ب ا �ش�مب���ا �� ا�� ب �� ل��ا ��ة� ا �� ل��ة� م � ح�ص�و���� ��س ��س� � ل ك ل ب و و � � � او � ك� ب ة� ب ة ة ب ة ب ص � ا �� � � � ا �لة�� ة� � ا � ب � ب � � � ب ���د ��ة� ا �ل��د�ةر ��ة�ر ا�ام�د �بر �ل� ��ة�ر. ب� ل�دةر �و م� ب ��ود رة� ب اً � � � حة ة ة ب ل��� � ا�ا�م����ا �����د ����ل� هة ا ��ب�� � � � ا ��ل ة ��� ��س��ا � ب�لة��د �� �ب�ا ���و� ا ���ع ش����ا � بو�����د ا ���ع ش����ا بة ب �م� �� او ا �ة�� و رو ب و و ب ة � � � ب � � � ب � � ��� ���� ش �ب � � ب ا ��س ا ك���ا �ام���د ا د � �����ده �ل��د ���ل� ا ب��م����� ا � ا � ك ب بو ب ة و ة � م ة� ل���ة������� ب�لة�����ل� او ك��ل �ة� ا �ل�د �ة �� او � ا�م�د ��و� � بوة ��م �و ً � � � ا � �د �� ب � ش �ب �� ���د ب�����د � او � م��رده .ا ب��ة�را ب�لة��د ب���ل ا �ر���ص ا ��ة� ة��ل��ة�لة��� � بو�لة��د ب���ل �ع ب��ده � او � ���د ب�لة� ك ��م� و �� ب ة � � � �ب ة � ��ا ه ����ل � � �ا � ا �ة ا �ب ا ب�� �ا � �� �� � ة ا � �ش �ا د � ح�ة� ة����ر�ب� ا �ر��� ا بل ك� ا �كب � ��ا � �ل��ل�ك ةص ك � ل رة��ص م ه�و �� ر � م ه�و ب طرة��� �ل�� �� ة � � � � � �ة � � ��ا � ��ه� �م بص ا �ل ش��سة� ���ط�ا ب� ا � �م بص ا �����ا �م�ا ة� ا �ر�و� ا � ��ة��د ��ص ا �و �م بص ب���� ب�� �م�� ك� � �ب � ل��ا ة� ���ب��ب�� ص ا �ل�ك ك ة م ج �ب�ا � � �ل � �ل � � ا��م ا � ب�ا ب ب� ب� � �� � �ا كة��� حة�ب�ً�د ا �ر��� �ب��ر�ش���ده �و ة��� �م�� حة���ل ا ب�ل�لة���� �� �ل � او ل ك� ����ل ا ك ك� ���� ب�لة��ا ��ره �� �. ح �� ة ةص ة ص ب � � � � � � ب � ة ة �� ة ب �ب�ا �ل����را �� �كب���ل ا �ل ب�صو� �و�ب����د ه ا ����ط �ر��ة��� ب��ة�� ب��ا � ا � ار �ع ب� � او�ا بم�ة��د �ة� ب��ب���ا �ة�� ا � ار ��� � او �ل����ل�� � . م م ة ب م �� ب � � ل ب � �ل��� �ة�ص ا � �م�ا ������ة��ا � ل ���د ب�ل��ة��د � ة�لة� ك� � � � � � � � � ا �� � ا ا � �م ع ك ء � � بو�����د �م�ا ب�لة��د ���ل� او ا ب ة� ��د رة���ص بوة ر ب � �و ب ة��س� و و ب ةب ة ة م ع ب � ه .ا ب���ًا ا ��ل�� بد �� ��� ���د ���د ب��� ا ��� ة��ل�� �لة��� � ا ��ل�� بد �� ��� ���د ة�� ش م����ا �م� ب� �ة � �� ش ا � � � � � � ع �كة��� ا �ة� �� �ة� ة��وم بل ر ة ر ة ب ةرة ة ل ة� ة و ة ب ةرة � ��ب ا ��ل��د � ب��ة���ة ش � ب� م����ا �و�����ده ك�� � ب��ة��ب بم ���ل �م بص ب�لة��د ب���ل ا ���ة� ة��ل��ة�لة��� � �و�ة�� ب��ا � � �وب����ب� ا �ل��لة���ل ��م �� ح� ة� ةر ر ب ب م ج �م � � � ب � ب � � ة ة � ة ا �� ��ةه ب��د �� �ب�ع� ب�ل��د �و� ��� ا � ����ل� �� �و ��� ���ده ا ب�ل �ر��ص ب��ة��ب�ب��� ا �ر�هب��ا � � او�ا بم�ة��د �ة�� بص ا �ة� ���ل�وه ة ة ة ة � ةب ب ب � � �كب ة�� ا� ة ب �ب �� ح�ة ة � � ا ب � �ب � �ل � ا � ة م � � ������ ا �ل�لة���ل ب م��� او ب �مة�� ا �ر�هب�� � � او �ر��� � او� بم���د �ة��ص �� ا ك ل��ة������ � بو ة����ل�و ���ل�وه ةص ة ة ع � � � � ة ة �س�ة� �م�ة � ا ا ب � � � � � � � � �ب����ب� ا �ل��لة���ل�� ا � ��ة� �ب�ة��� ة � � ��� � ب�و�ة���� ���وا ا � ا ا ا ل ا � ��ده � � � � � �د � � � � �� � � � � � � � � ل � ب � ر و و � � ة� و ة ب ل ة ة ب ة م ب �م � � � ة � �� � � �ل �ة �ب ا �ة ب ة ا �� ��م�� ا �� ب�� � ا ه � � � � � � � � � � � � ا � � � � � ا ا ا � ا ا ك �� � � � ه ه ل� � �د �د ��د �د ل ل ل � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � م � � � �� � � � ب و ر � � و و و ب ب ب ة ص ب و ة� ل ب ر ة ةص ة ج ب � � �� ب� � � ب � ب�ة �� � �ة � ش ب ���د �مب ��� بةل�� �وك�� � ��را � ��ة��د ا ��ص � �وب�ة�ر�و� ا ��ة� ��م����ل�� ا�ام�وك���ل كة�� ب����ة ر ك �صو� ا �ة� � ���ل � او � حب� � ��د كب���ل ج م �ب� � ة ة ة ب � ب � ب� � �ه� ب�����ا ��� ب�لة�����ل� او ����ل�وه ا �ل����ا د����� � بو�����ده ب�لة��د �� �ب�ا ���و� ا �����د ا �مك�� د ���ر�ب�ا �وك����ل �ا �ع ب� ا ���� � ة ة ب ة ب ب � ب �� ة �سس���� ب�لة���ل�� بر� �ب�ا �ب�� ة������ر�� �ةو�لة���رب�. �و�مب���د �ة� � �م�ر�و��ص ��لة��� ��ة� ك���ل � ب م � ب�ة ا � ب � � ة ا ش ا �ل�� � ���ا ب� �ب�� بص ا�ا بم�ة��د �ة�� بص � ب���ل ا ح��� ب�لة� ب� �� ب� �ك����ا �ل ة� ح�ة�� � ��ط�و�ةل��ل ا � ���� �م�� ���� ��ة ب� ب�لة ���� �س� ة �وك ة ة � � � ش ب ب ب �� ��ب ا �ب�� �م ب � ا ���ع�� � � ��� ���� ���� ب�� ب ���ص �ة� ر و و �ل � �ل ة � ب���� ب��ص �م بص ا �ر�هب��ا � �ع بص ����ل � ب���ل ك�ة � �و��� ب�لة��د ���ل � بة � � ب ب�ب ب �� �ل � ب � � �ل �ة �ب ل� ر بع��� بوة� �� �م� ا�ا بم�ة��د �ة��ة بص �������� ا � ار �ع ب� ا � ����ا �ل ة� �ة�ا ا ��ة� �ع بص ����ل � ب���ل ���د ا ك���ا � ة ع � ب � ب ��ش �� � �م ب ا � � ش ب � ة ط���ا � ��� ش�� ك���� �ل���ل�� ب�ل���لة�ص �� �م�ا ���د �ة�� � ش ��س���� �و� ب���ل ��ل � ب� ع���ر� بص � ���ر � او ��� ر �ول� ص �و�ل�د ��ة�� بم ة � ة ل ة � ة ة ص ة � م ة ة ج 6
6
٨،١
٩،١
١٠،١
Chapter One
shoemaking, the scribe to his writing, the gardener to his gardening, and so on. Only the steward was left inside the monastery. In the evening, following vespers and compline,8 the bell would ring for
1.8
dinner, following which all would meet again in the same gathering place and go for a walk. Then they would make their way to church, where each person would pray on his own. Finally, the abbot would repair to his cell. Each resident of the monastery would come to visit him, one at a time, to reveal his thoughts. This wasn’t so much a confession as a form of guidance, so that the abbot might discern whether a person’s thoughts had come from Satan or were, rather, inspirations from the Holy Ghost or one of the angels. The abbot would offer his guidance and instruct the man about Satan’s devious tricks. If he perceived any sin in the man’s thoughts, he would order him to perform a confession before going to sleep. That way, every monk and novice slept peacefully each night. After visiting the abbot, each man departed in silence, forbidden from
1.9
speaking to his companions until the following day. Some would go to their cells, and others, if they wished, would go for a walk in the monastery. Finally, each retired to his cell and went to sleep. At midnight, the sacristan would go around to all the cells carrying a bell. He’d rouse the monks and novices, and all would gather together with the abbot to pray the nocturne, which lasted an hour or less. Then all returned to sleep until dawn. Each day, the large bell would ring for the morning prayer, and the mass would begin. Everyone attended mass, then went off to their designated work without any breakfast, until an hour before noon. Next they’d pray the sext prayer.9 Afterward, the bell would ring for lunch (as described earlier). It was incumbent upon every monk and novice to confess his sins and receive communion every day of the week. There was among the novices a tall, dignified elderly man, with gray hair and a white beard. I asked one of the monks about him. Why would a man enter the order at such an advanced age and join the ranks of the novices? “You’re interested in his story, are you now, brother?” the monk said. “Well, it seems that the old man was once a village elder, and a generous one at that. Each night, he’d welcome twenty people or more to his dinner table. Seven sons he had, all married! And married daughters too. Now, this fellow and wife had made an agreement to give up worldly things and spend the rest of their lives in orders. His wife joined a convent, and he came to this monastery.
7
7
1.10
� �أّ � �ف ا � �ل���ص�ل ا �ل� �و�ل
ب ة اب ب ب با ة ب ا ة ب ��ً�ا �ب ب ة ب ة � ة ش ا ���د ا ا � �� ��� �ه�و � او �� ار ��� �ب� �����م �ة���ب��د � او �سس���� ��سب�� ب� ��ر�و ب���ةص � بو�ل�� � ��ر�و ب�� � ا �ة�� � ب � � ب ب � ة ب � ب ة ة اة ح��ا ���� ا �ل��ا �ك��� �� ا � �ع�ب��� � ا � ة �ة � � ا ا ل�� ح� ا �� ار ��� �ود ��ل� �ة� د�ةر �ا �هب�� � �و�ه�و ا ����� �م �وة �مك�ل� او �ة � م ب ة ة� ر ب ر � � ب � � � ة ب ب �س� او ة� �و�ام�ا � او ب��� ا ب� �� �وب�ا ا �رة���ص ب�ر�م�ا � ��و��ص �و ��ط��ل ب� ا ب��ا ا ��ة� ���د ا ا �ل��د�ةر �م بص �م�ده �ش�ل�� ش� � � ة � ��ل�� � � ب��ه � �م ب��� �ب�ا �ب�� �ب��ر���د �ة��د ب���ل ��ل��لر� بع�ب��� ب���ل�م�ا ا �ر��� ���م� �م ب��� ����ل ك�� ح ب�. ةة م ةصع � �ة�� � � ا ا ب� ا �ع ��� ة ب � ة �ع ��ل��ل� ا �ا� � ا � � ب �ع ب�د ا ب� �ع � �ة � �ة��� ��� ��ش�� ب�� ب ة � � ��� � �ر� ��رك �� م و �ل�� � ر ��رك ب� رة��د ط�� ة � �وح��ك و ل� ة� �ة� ة ٰة � � ة � � ة �� ب ةا � ب � ّ � � ش ب ح ب �ع ب �م�� ��ا ب��ا ��� ا �ل���� ب ���د ا ا ب� �� �ب�ا ا � ��� ة�م��� � ا �ل� ب� حة�ة��ا � ������ل ا لل� ب�لة��هب���لب��� �م� م �ل�لر� بع���� �و�� �ل ة ر و ب ر ص ص ة ة ع ج �ب ة � � � � ب ب ���د � ش ة � ح�ة � ح بص ���لة��� �وة���ل�� ا � �������ل�� ا �ل��� ع���ر����ا ��� �ة�ا ا ب� �� �وب�ا ��ل�� �ا �ل ب�لة���ل � ����ة� ا �رة���ص �ةو�ل �صو�����ل ا �لة��� ة� ج بة � ش �ب�� ا د ب���ل�ك ��ل��ل��د�ةر � او ب��م��ل�ك �م� ا �� �ه��ا ب� ا ��ل�� ب�����د �م�ا ا �م�ة� ��ا ا ب��� �م�ا بة�� ك� � ح بص �ع بر�م��ك ������ل�� ا �ل��ة�� بم � ع رب �م� ة� ة ة � ج ب�ا ب � � � ة ة ب � ة ة � � ة ش ة ب ب � � � � � � � ا �ب�����ل ب�� �مك� � �ر��د .حة��ً�د �ل�� ا �ر��� ا ل ك� �� � �و�ل� �ب��د �ب���� � �س��ة�� � ا بر � ا �ل�د�ةر�مص ��ة�ر ���ر��� �م� ةص ة ة ع � ب ا ش ا ب ا ب ا ا ا ��ل ش � ب ب� �ة � ا ��ل ش � ب م � ب ا ب ا ب ا � �� � � ���ل�� ��ة� ا �ر�هب��ا ب� ا ��� ���ةص �م� ة����� ��ل�� �� ب�� �ب�� ��ة� � ا ��ر�� �ة� ا ب� �� �و� � او �� ب�� ��� ا ��رك. م م ة ة ج ة ب �ب � ج � � ��لة � عب ب ب ة ة ب ا ا ا ب ة � � ا � � � � � � � � � � � ا � � ا ا ا � � � � � � ء ���ل�م�ا �ا رة���ص ���ل عرم ا ل�د ة� ل� ��ره ب� � ة��س��ة�� د ���ل ب� ب� ا ل�دةر ح�� ة� ب ��و ب� � � ب� ب� �ة � �� ًا م � ا ب ا ة ة ا ش �ش ة ب ب �ب � ب �وك� ���ا ب� �و�ا ا �لب��ا ب� ب��ة�� ة� � ب��ة�ر �مش���ل ا �ل���و ���ل�� �م��� �و ��ط� ��� �� � � �س��� �م ��ل� ��� ��س���ةص �ة� ج � � � � �ة ةب � ة بد ��ل��ك ا �ل��� ة� ا � ب ب��� ة� ح�م��ل �برد ا �ل ش��سة��ا �و�را ��� ة � ���و�ة� �وة�ع�س� ���ب� �و�ه�و ���ا �بر �م بص ب��ة�ر �ش�س� ر ةر بة ع � � � ب � � ب ب ب ة � � ب � ا � �� ا ب ا ب ة� ب ا ا� � �ب ����لة���ل �مص ا�م� ك��ل ا �ل�د �ة� �ة�������ل �مص �م� �ة��ده ا �ل�د�ةر �ل�م� ا �ر�هب�� � � او �ل�������� �ا �و ��ب��ر ����ل � ب���ل ب � � �ة � � � ب � � �ة ا� ة ب � ب �ة � ش�ل �ا �ة�� �ة �� �ل ا ا �� ا � �ب�ا ا �� � � ح�ة� �ة��د ���ل�� �ل��ل��د�ةر �وة�هب��ل� مص ب �م�ل� ا� بم���د �ة��ةص. حة��ً�د كب���ل و ب� ��و �� �و �ة� ب ��و رة��ص ة ة ب ا ��ر��� ���ط��ل�ةس��� �ود ب���ل�� �و��لب����س�وه �ة��و ب� ا�ا� بم�ة��د �ة�� ب � او ��ل�� ب� ��ل�� �ش�ل�� �ش��ة ا �ش�س�ه� ��ب� ا ��لب� � �ر�� �و���د ه ةص ة ب ةص ب م � � � ك� ح��اة�لة��� � او �ل���ب�� ب�. ة ب ب ة ��ب �ب��ل�م�ا ���م�ع ة� �م ب ا �� ا �ع� ب���ر ���� � ب��� ا ���بة�� حب� ة� � او ب� بب�رل��ل ة� ��ة� د ا ��ة� � او �ل��عرب� ص ر ب ب ل ل ا ب � � ��ا ا� ة ا �ب ب ة ب ة ب� � ب ب ة � � ا � ب � ب ا �� ة ا ا ح �ل � � � � ك � كة �صو�م مص د ا � ا �ل��ة� �م د ��ل�� �ا �ة� ب��ة��� ا�م� �ة��ده �ة� ���د ة� ك� �مه�� د ب���د �م� د ���ل ا �رة���ص � �ب بب � � ب � ح�ة ���د ب���ل� ا �ب�د ب���ل� ا ب���ل�م�ا �� ة ب � � او �ر�هب��ا � �ل��ل�م�ا �ة��ده �و ب���ل��س� او ا ب �ل�مة�� و حة��ً�د ا د � ا �رة���ص �ل�ل�مب���دة�ص ة� ة و ع � � � ب � � ب � � ب� � � � ب� ب �ة ب ب �و�ل �ب�ا ��ة��د ا ���ة� ا ���و�ا � ك �ا د �ة��د ���ل ����ل � ب���ل ا �ل� حة�ة��ا � � برب�ره ا �رة���ص �و م���� عص ا �ل�د � م�� ��� � ب � � � � � ب ��م � � ب �� ب ا ب� ح ب�� ا � ار ��ص � او � ة �ة ا � ا ب ا � ب� ا ���د � � �س��� �م �����د ا ا �ة� ���ةص �م� ��ل�ص� او ا �ر�هب�� � ���د ا �و�ربج ا �رة���ص �ل�ة ة ص و ة � � � ب ة � ة �� ا �ل��ش�� ب ب ة ب �� ب� � ار �� ة م �م بص ا�ام�ا �ة��ده � او �ة� ا �ة� � �بر�� ب� ��و ب��� �عب �صو��ص �م�� ب� � �ع��د ا ��د ا �م ا �رة���ص �و�ه�و ع شج � � � ب� ة � � � ة ب �� ب ب � ا ��بل �ر�ب�ا ب� �ة��لة���ل ا �ل�����ة ش����ا � ��� �ب �� ��و�ل�� �ل�� �ة�ا ��ة�� بم ��ط�ا ��� ��ة� ا �ل����ص � �وب��د �ة� ا �رة���ص �ةرب�ره �وة��وب م ج 8
8
١١،١
١٢،١
١٣،١
Chapter One
That was three years ago. He met with the abbot, Father Jirmānūs, and asked him if he could become a monk.10 The abbot was incredulous. “‘Brother, you gave the bloom of your life to the world. And now, in old age,
1.11
you choose to give the rest to monasticism?’ the abbot said, trying to test the old man’s resolve. “‘Yes, Father,’ the old man replied. ‘And perhaps God will accept me among the laborers of the eleventh hour.’11 “He continued to beg and plead, and finally the abbot took pity on him, but insisted that he wouldn’t admit the old man to the monastery and let him join the monks until he tested his resolve. “‘Do with me what you will,’ the old man replied. “‘In that case, you’ll live outside the monastery without mingling with the monks, until such time as our Lord sees fit.’ “‘As you wish, Father,’ he said. “Confronted with the old man’s determination, the abbot ordered him to
1.12
serve as a gatekeeper, and lodged him in a little hut just inside the lower gate to the monastery. He spent the next three years living in that hut, enduring the cold of winter and the heat of summer without complaint, and contenting himself with the meager scraps he received from the monastery’s table. Seeing his steadfastness and perseverance, the monks and priests begged the abbot to admit the old man to the monastery and accept him among the novices. “The abbot agreed, and they brought him in and clothed him as a novice. That was three months ago,” the monk concluded. “And that’s his story.” The man’s story left me astonished. And yet, an even stranger thing happened some days later, when we went to the refectory to have lunch. After the abbot and monks entered the hall and everyone had sat down, the abbot admitted the novices. But when the old man walked in, the abbot rebuked him and forbade him from taking his place. The old man retreated, his arms folded and his head bowed, and remained in that posture until the monks finished lunch. The abbot, his face twisted into a furious scowl, got up from the table and strode over to him. The old man knelt prostrate at the feet of the abbot, who launched into a tirade. “You shameless, senile old man!” he shouted, giving him a tongue-lashing as severe as any lampoon a poet ever dished out. When the torrent of abuse finally stopped, the abbot kicked him and said, “Get up, you wretch, and eat with the cook!”
9
9
1.13
� �أّ � �ف ا � �ل���ص�ل ا �ل� �و�ل
شا ب � � � با � � ب ا �ه ��ا ه � � ب� �� ا �ب����ا ب� ب�كب����د �م�ا �ه ��� ل ك� �ه � �� �� � �و��� � ة� بحة�� � �و� �هة��ك عص � ب���ل ���� عرا د ا �ا د ة� ب ة� ب و بو ب ل م � � � ا � ب ب �ة � � ب ب ة ة � �سة ا �ة�ب���د ا �م� ا ���� ب ا � �ب ب �ل � �مب� �� � �� ��ر ��ك����� �بر ب���ل�� �و���ل�� ���و� �ة�ا �ش �� ���ج ���ة� ا � ل ������ص �وكب���ل �ة��د ا رة���ص � ة م ة ع ب � ب ا� ا �م ا � � ا ب ا� ب � � ة ب ة ة ا ب � � � ح �و ��ط�ل ب� �م��� ا ����� ��و � او�م���� ��� ا �م� � ب �مة�� ا �ر�هب�� � � او� بم���دة�ص �ود ���ل �ل�ل�م� �ة��ده �� ة�ل����د ا ة م � � ا ب� ب ب ا � ب ا �� �ا بع ا� ة ا ب��ة ش � � ��� �و�ر ب� ح�� ب �مة��ه�� ا �� � ك� م����ا ب��ا � ب�� � �م� ا ���� م�� � ا�م�ه�� د �ة��ة�ر �ام�ا �ا ��ة ة� ����ل �م�د ��ر ش���رب�� ة� ة ع بج ب � ب � � � ب ���ا ب� � ب���ل ا ب� ا ��ل ش��� �ر�� �وة���ل ة� ��� �ب�ا ��� ا ب� ك� �� ار �م�� حة�ة��ا � �مش���ل ���د ا �� �م�ل�� ا �رة���ص �ب����د ه ا ��� ة ة ب ا �� ب ا ب �ة� ة �ب ب � �ب ب ا ا ا � ب � � � � ل � م � � ا ا ا ا � � � � ��ر م� ة��� ���. ك��ة��� �� ة� � د و�ع� �ة� �ل� ب�ة�ل�� � ة � ب ب � � ا � ة �ة �ا � ه ا ���� ا�ا�م����ا ء � او �ب�ا ���و�ه�و� �ب��ل�م�ا ��ا ب� �و�كة ة� ك� ��مب� ا �ل�� �كب ك� �� ش � �س���م ة� ��ة� ���د ه ا � ب��� � �� � و ��ر ة م � ش ب �ب�ا � ��ا ا� ا �ب ب � � � � ب � ة ب ة � � � ة � � ا ا ة � � � ��م� ا ك ك� ���ة�ر ح�� ا ك� � �� � ة� ك�� �م�ه�� د �وك�� � ا �و�ل ك��ل� م�ة� �ل�لر���ص �ب� �ة� ���د ا ا �لص � د ب���ل� ا � �� � ة ة �وم ة � � ب�ة ا ا� ب ��� � � �ب ة� ب �ب �� ار �م�� ����ل � ب���ل ا �ل� ك��ل� ب�ه� � ��ر �كة���ك �ة�ا ا ب� �� �وب�ا ك��ة ��� ا �ب��ك ��� �م��ل ة� �ب�� ح�ة�� � �و�مة���ك ��ة� � ً ً � � ة ا ب �ب ب �� ب� ة ح�ة��ا ��� �� �م�ا ا �� ة� ���ل��� ب � بة د�� ب� ا �ب��د ا �و� � �كب � ��ر�ة� �ك�ب����س�م ا �رة���ص �و���ة� �ة� ا ��ة� � �ل � ب �ل � ة ة ل��ص �و�ة���ة� ةة ب �ة ب �� � � ب ة � ة � ب ���ب ا �م� ا�ا�م�ة��د � ب � ة ب ب����ة��� ب���� �ب�ا ��� ا �ب�����ل � ��� ح�ة� ا �� �ر���� ���� 1ا �ل �ص او � ���د ة ع �وك����را �ل�د ا � ح�ة� ة �م� او ب ص ة ة � ب م ة ب � ع ب ا �ب ا �ة � � � � ب �ك � ة � ���� ب�� �مة ���د ا �ب�����لة��� ��لة ���� � ب ب ��ب� ا �� ب��� ب� � � � ل ا � � � �د � �� � � � � ح� � � � ص م � ل ب � � � � و ة ��ة��ل�� �و���د ا ا �ر ب���ل � و ة ب ب ةو ب ص ب رة ص ة �� � ج �ا ة � ب ب ب � ة ب ة ة ب ل ب ب ا ا ة ب ب � هو� �ع��د ب �مة�� �ب� �� �وب� ح�� ة�� � �س�هة��د � او �مص � �� او � ������ � ٢و��ب��ره �و ��ط� �ع��� � �م�� ح��� ب�����ة�ر ع ة ة �ل � � � م ة با ب ب �ة � ب �ب ب ا ا� � � ب �� � ب ّ ������لم ب � حة � ��ل د�� ب� ��� .ار د �ل� �ا ل ة ��و�ع��ص ���ة� �وة ة �ة� �ة� برد � �ب�ة� �و�ر بح� مص ع��ده � او �� �� �رة���ص ب� � � � ب � ب ة ح�ب��د ��ا ب� ك� ��مب� ا �ل�� �كب ك� �� ش � ��ا � �����ا ��ا �ة��ده �ع �ة��م��. �و�مب����س�و ��ط � ار��ة� �ة ً ب � � �ة ب ب � � � �و� ��و� ا ب�ر ب�ر ب� بر ة� �ب�ا ب� ا ��ل��د�ةر �ل�� ب���ل ا �ل���ره ك� ح ب��ا �م بص ا�ام�ا �ة��ده ب�����د ا ��ب���د ا �و ��ط��ل�ه ب��ا � ا ���ا �ام�هة��ا د ة م � �� ب ب ب � ب �� ��ة��ب ب � � � � � ا ا ا ا �� �ب� ��د ��� ا � ��� ا �� �ا �ع� ك�� � ة�����م � �� ���� �وك�� � ���� �ا �ع� �م ح� �مك� د ��ر ة� و ل ����ص ��ة� ب ب رة ص ة � � ب � �ة ب ش ب � � � ب �� ��ً�ا �واةب� ا ��ل��د�ةر �وك� ���ا � ا �رة���ص �ةر�����ل�� ا �ة� ��ط ارب�ل��ل��ص � ������ة� ا ��م���ا �ل ا �ل��د�ةر � او �ة� ��ة�ر ا �م�ا ��بص ا �ة� ب� �� ج �ب ب ا ب ا ب� �� ب �� �� ة اب ا� ا حب� ا ��د ا �ا�م�ا � ������ ب� ش���ره � ��را �م� �م�� ا ��ره �ب� � �ة� ��د ا �ل�ج� ا ����� �لةص�و��ص �م���� �و�م� �ة�����ل ا �ة� � ة � � ب ب� � ا �� ب � � ا �� ة ب � ة ب � ب � ة ا � � � ��س��� � �وة��دةر �ب� �ل� �س��ده ��ع �ر� �وة�����ل�م�� ب�لة��د � �و� ة� ��ة �ةرك�ب��� ����ة�ا �لب����ل�� �و�ة��و���ل�� ا ��ة� �ة ��س���� � ة � ة � ب � � � �ل�� ب � ��� �ة�� ���ا �� ب�ك��� �وة� �� ���لة��� � �و��د ا ��ة�� ��ة� ا �ل��د � ب� � او �ع ��ط�ا ه � ك ح�م��. م�� �صو ب� �ل�و ة و ة ة ة بً � � ا ب � � ب � � ب� ا� ب ��ا ب ب � � ب ب � ا � � � � � � ع � �� ا ا ع � ا ا ا ا ا ا � � ع �ل ا � ا ��ة�ر ������ل ��د ر�هب�� � ة��د �ة� ة� ��ده �ل�ج م�د �و� ��ة� ����� ة �صو ص وك� � د �ل�ك � � ب � � ا �� � �ة ه �� ش ح��د� ٣ب��ل�م�ا � ب �� ا �م�ا � ا �� ��� ��� م���� ��ب� ا ��ل��د�ةر ا ��ل�� ��ا ب��ل � � � �وب�ا ��ص �ة��ده. �رة���ص و م� ل� ��و ة ح� ر م رة ص � � ب � ة ة ع أ أ أ 1ال��ص� :ا�مر�ه ف�م���� ٢ .ال��ص� :ي�وا ف�ص�ه ٣ .ال��ص� :ف�ا �فل � ح����د د. ل ل ل م
10
10
١٤،١
١٥،١
١٦،١
Chapter One
The man rose to his feet, kissed the abbot’s hand, and begged his forgiveness as all the monks and novices looked on. He then went into the hall to have lunch with the cook while we all filed out for our usual walk. Witnessing this spectacle was a bitter pill to swallow. If the abbot could treat an old man so harshly, I wondered, what would happen to me if I ever crossed him? What sort of rebuke might I face? The incident stayed with me all day, until I felt it was time to reveal my
1.14
thoughts to the abbot. I went in to see him. “Father,” I blurted out, “I’ve spent all day thinking about what you did, and how you treated that old man so harshly! I’ve reproached you in my thoughts, Father!” The abbot smiled. “To be candid, brother, I knew he’d done nothing wrong,” he said. “But my position demands that I treat the novices harshly. It trains them to be humble and it breaks down their sense of self. When it works, they grow in virtue. “I love that man,” the abbot continued. “There’s something saintly about him. In fact, that’s why I treated him the way I did. We have certain novices here who are too full of themselves. It’ll do them good to see what real humility and resignation look like, especially since everyone knows the man had done nothing wrong.” He continued to counsel and comfort me until my nerves had steadied, and I left feeling better. I realized then that the exercise of revealing one’s thoughts to the abbot was profoundly beneficial. Another day, we got up from lunch and went out the gate of the monastery
1.15
to go for our usual walk. The abbot called for a monk named Mūsā, who was in charge of procuring the monastery’s provisions. The abbot would occasionally send him to Tripoli, among other places, to take care of the monastery’s affairs. When Brother Mūsā appeared, the abbot ordered him to take Brother Arsāniyūs to the village of Bsharrī and put him on a mule. He was to convey him to the village of Saydat Zgharta, where he’d hand him over to the village priest. The abbot told him to take care of Arsāniyūs and protect him along the way, and gave him a letter recommending Mūsā to the priest, asking him to treat Arsāniyūs. The abbot sent another monk to fetch Arsāniyūs, who was ill, and hardly had the strength to walk through the monastery. He dragged himself before the abbot and knelt to kiss his hand.
11
11
1.16
� �أّ � �ف ا � �ل���ص�ل ا �ل� �و�ل
� ب � � ل��ل��� ب���ة���ل�� ا �ب�ا ا �� ك ��ا ا ب��� ��ا �� ا ������ط�ا ��� ��ا �ب��ك ة�ر�و� ح�ب��د ���ا � ة�لة� ك� �ل��� �م���� ا �ر��� �ب����د ا ا �� ك� �ة ً ب ب ة ر ر ة ةص م ج م ة ب � � ب �س��د ة� ب� ب�ع �ةر�ا �وةل�� ��و ب� � �م� ا ب� �و��ة� � ح ة� ��ط�ا �عة��� ��ة� ب��مة�� �م�ا ب�لة��ا ��رك حة�ب��ا ���و����ا ا �ة� �ع ب��د �� ة � ع ع �ب ب �� ا �� ب���� ب� � ب �� ة ة � � ة � ة ة ب�كة��� � او بل ك� ��ا � ب�لة��ا ��رك �ب�ا ك��ل� ��رةل���و� �ة�ا ك���ل � �و ��هب���ل ا �ل�د � �وة�� ا � ��ة� �ة����د �س���ا �ل��ك �م بص ��ة�ر ا �ب��ك ةب � � بب � � ب ب �ب ��ل � ة ح�� �عب � ��� ���ا � 1و ��ب� ب���ل�و��ص ك�� ��ل�� � ا �ر���ص �م��� ������ص �ة� ا ��ا �ل � �وب�ا ��ص �ة��د ا �رة���ص �و� ��و ب��� �و�ر�ل � ة ص م ة ا � � ب � � �� �ة � � �ب �� �ة � � ا ب� ب� � ب ا ة � � ل � � � � � ا ا � � �ل ا ا ا ��ة� ا �ل��د � ب �و ��ه�ه ر���ص �ود �� ه ا ة� �د م� � �م� � ب�� م� ر���ص � � ع �و�ل� ع�ر ة� ة ع م �ة ج ً � �� ب ب ب ��� � � ��ة���ل�� ��ا �ة��ل�� ا ������ة�� � ا ��ة�م��� ب ��ل�� ب ةص �اة � ����ل ا �ب��ك �ة�ا ا �ب�ا ��ا � �وب�ا ��ص ا �ل����ص ب�����د ا ا �رة���ص �ة ��وب� وة ة ة �ل � ر و ة ة ل ج �ة �� �ب �� �لة�ة�د ة�� ش ح�� ة��ا �ب �ب�ا �م ب ���ا �ه ب�ا ا �� ب ���� ��ا ��س����ة ب� ب�ع �ة�ا ���� ب�ك��� م���� � ل�� � ا � ل� � � � � �� � � � س� � � ك � � ر � ة ب و و ة ل ل ص � ر ب ة ص ة ة ب � ة ة � ب � ب � ��ل � � � � ا �ش ة ا ب ب ا ��� � ا � �ة � � � � � � ب � ب ��ا ���ب� �كب��� ب��ص ا �ل�� � ا ���ودة��� �� �� ��ل��ك � � �س� ������ص �و م� م� ب� ��و�ل� �ل�ك �و�ل� ع �و�ه�و ج ب ة ة �ة ع � ب � � ب � � � ب ب ��م ع� ��� �ة�ا ا �ب�ا �ب�ا ���ة���ل�� � ح ب ا � � � ب�� � �ة � � � حة�ب�ً�د �ام�ا ب�لة�����ل ا ��� ب� ش���ره ا �ك�� ب� ا �لب�����ل�� �ة� ��� �م� �ل�ل� � ص �وة� ��ول ا ر ة ة � � ا ب ا ب اة ة ً � � � � ة�� ش � � ع��ا ب��ة�� �و�عب��اة�لة��� ا � ب�� ��وة��ا ب�لة��� ��ا ب� ����ل� او �ة�� �و� ك� م����� ا �ب��د ا � او ��را � ��د ا �ر�هب�� � �ب� � �ة� �لة��� بل ل�� و�ل� ة ب � ب �ة ب ة � � ��ب ب � � ب� � ب ا ةب ���د ��ر���. ��ا �ع ��ط�ا ��ه ا �ة� ا �ل� � ���و����ا ا�ام�د ���و� � �وب�ا �ك ���لة��� � او � حة��ً�د ا �ل��ع� ا �رة���ص ا �لة��� �و�ل � ج م � ة � ب ب �ب ب �ب �� �ة ة ا ً� � �ب ة ش ة هة�� ٢ة�ا ا �و�ل�د �ة� �ب�ا � ةل���و� ����ل ��ط�ا ��� ا ���ع�مة��ا ا � ��ة� ��هة� ��ة� ����ل اج� ةل���و� �� �ة�ل� ك��� ب���سس� � ب � � ��� �ب�ب ��رة�� ك� �� ا �م ش����� ب�ل��ل ا �ب�� ��ة ��ب� ا �ب�� �م�ا ا �عة��د � ���ة� �ب ��ة ��و�ل�� �ة�ا ا �ب�ا �ب�ا �م�ا ���ة� �ة��وه �� �� ��ة� ب��مة�� �� ل� س� � � ل ة ة م ة ةا � �ب �ة � ام�ً� � �� ا � ة � � �� �� �م �م ب ب ش ة ب � ة ا ا � � � � � م�� � � ا � � � ا ا � �ل � � ا �ل ��و ب�� �� �ل� ب��ط� ع�� ة� ك�ل �ة� ص ��ة ر � ة�� ب� ب� � ب ة���د � ة ��ة� و �س��� م رة���ص �ة� ة � ب � ب ة � ب �ل��ل�ك ا �لب����� ����ا ��� ا � ��ة� ��هة� �ل��لة��� بره �ة ��و�ع ب��ص ���لة�ب��ا ��ة� ����ل �م�ه ب��ا. ة � ب �ب ة ���ش�� ه �ب ��� �ع�ب���ة ا�ا� �ة � ا �� ب�� �ة ة ش ا م��د����� �و�م بص ا �ر�هب��ا � ا �ل��دة� بص ����ة�ر����م� و ���ة�ر �ا ��ة� ا ��سة�� ك� ة ر �ة� �ل � ب ب ا ب�� ة ب � ش �ً � ب � ة ب � � � ة � ب � � ة � � ����ة�ره �م�ل� لة ك ��ة��� �و���د ا د �� �ر�� �و�ه�و ا � �����لة���ل �م بص ا � ك ل����ة�ر ب�ل��ل ا ��م� د �� �ر�� ب��ل� �ة� � �و���ب�ة��� �����ة�ر�ة� ًا ة �� ش � ب ة � � ب ب � � ��د ه ا ��ل��د � ب���ة ا�ا�م�ة��د����� �و ب� ح�ص�و� ��� �و�كب���ل ك���ل ����ة� �لة��ل� �ةر�وج� ا ��ة� ا �ر� بع���� ب�����ة�ر ا ��سس���د ا د ��� ش �ب ب ّٰ ا ب �� ة �ة ة ة � � � �� ة �س��ة��م �م�ده �م�د �ة��ده �ة� ��ط�ل ب� �مص ا لل� �ب� � �ةر� �وة�� د �ع� �و�� �ةو�ل��د �بر����ة� �ة��د ��ر����د � ة ��م �� �م��ل ة ب ب � ة �و�م��ل��� � . حة�ب�ً�د ب�لة����و� �ب�ا �م�ا � �م بص �كب���ل د �ع� �و��. � مب ً ب� �� �ل�ل�ة� � �ة � � ب � ب ا ب �ة ة �ب ة ش ب ة �س�ة��م ة� �� ����ب � � � � �و�� ب� �ر�� ب���لة���ل مص ا �ر�م� � �و��ع� �� ��ر�ص �هة���ل � او � � ا ��ة�را ب����د د رة ص ة �ة ب ب ب � ب ب� � � ةب ب �م�دهة �ش�س�ه�� بص �و�ش�س�ه� ا ب�ر�م�ا �ب�ة� بص �� �ر�ب��ص �و �� �� ب� �و ��ة� د �ل��ك ا �ل ش��س�ه� ���� �ع��ة� ا �رة���ص ��ا � ��و� ة ة ة ع ف ف ا �ل ف ف � ي ف ف �م��م��ط ��هي ف� ال�أ�ص� « :ا ف�ا ا�م ي �� 1ع�د «�ع ف�م���ا» ف����ل�هي ش �� و� ك � ا ليى ا ��يى �مو��س�ا ف�ا ف��ه �يى ف� ش���ر� �ير ف� � �و� �م��طي���ع�ه �يى وف يى ل و ر ف ك�ك ���ليى ف���ع�ل�ه ��ا رل� ف ا �ل�د �» ٢ .ال�أ�ص� � :ش�����ي�م� ي ���. ر � ف ل ف ي
12
12
١٧،١
١٨،١
Chapter One
“Brother, I order you to go with our brother Mūsā to see the priest of Saydat Zgharta. Obey his every word! If he orders you to eat fatty food, then do so, and accept without question the medicine he gives you.”12 When the abbot finished speaking, the monk rose and kissed his hand. He turned and started down the stairs, but the abbot shouted after him, calling him back. The man returned and knelt before the abbot. “Forgive me, Father,” he said, kissing the ground. “Where are you going, you senseless dolt?” the abbot shouted. “Are you going to walk all the way to Zgharta just because our Rule says you should? You don’t have the strength! Pride has overcome you, you wretch! Now stand up and listen carefully, and don’t disobey me.” “Forgive me, Father,” the monk said meekly as he stood up, head bowed. “When you arrive in Bsharrī, get on the mule and don’t go another step on foot,” said the abbot, and ordered one of the monks to fetch the man’s prayer book, walking stick, and outer robe. He gave them to Brother Mūsā, blessed him, and sent him off. The abbot turned to us and sighed. “My sons, I yearn to see the blind obedience of this monk in all of you,” he said. “Did you notice that he made not a single excuse? He didn’t say, ‘Oh Father, I don’t have the strength to walk!’ No, he set off immediately, obeying my orders without any doubt that he was able to walk.” The abbot continued to preach to us on this subject for the next half hour, which was supposed to be spent strolling outdoors. I saw quite a few things in this sacred order and among the monks, whose
1.17
conduct is truly angelic. What I’ve recounted here are just a few stories. Even though they may reflect poorly on me, I’ve told these stories in order to warn others not to pursue the path of monasticism without being prepared for such a saintly vocation. Specifically, before doing anything else, you should spend a good long while asking God to reveal His calling to you. And you should train at the hand of a learned and practical guide. Then and only then will you be certain that you have indeed been called. Shortly after I began my novitiate, I became very ill. I was ill for two months, and spent another month recuperating. During that month, the abbot freed me from the monastic rule and would send me out with the monks whenever
13
13
1.18
� �أّ � �ف ا � �ل���ص�ل ا �ل� �و�ل
ش ب ا � � � �ب�ب ا ��م��� �ل ا �ل�د�ةر ك ك ��� ة�
� � ة � � ا� ا ب � ب ا �ر� بع�ب��� �و���ا � �ةر�����لب��� �م� ا �ر�هب��ا ب� � ا بر � ا �ل�د�ةر �م� ة�رب � �وا ��ة� ة ع ا � �و� ا �ة�ب� بره � ط�� � حب�ةس��� . ج م � ب � � � ب ة � �� � ب � ب ��ة �� ب � � ة ب ا ا ا ش � ب ب ب � � � � ح� ة ط � ح �ص او م �كة �صو�م �مص د ا � ا �ل��ة� �م �ا �� � �ل�ل�د�ةر �وا ا �ل���ةص �مص ا �ر�هب�� � ا �ة� ا ����ط� ��و ة� � ج � ا ب ا ب � �ب � � � � �� ا � ب ب حة ا �ة�ب� ب ه �ب�س ب � م��ا ب� ة����م�ا ��ة�� ة� �م����� ا �� � ك� � ��ا ��ر��ه ا �رة���ص �ب� � �ة� ��د �و ة� م���� �ل�ل�ط� � �و� ��ة� ر م ة م م ب ��ا ب�� ة ا �� �� ا � ب �ب��ل ا � � �ل ب ا � ب� ب �� ا ا �� ��ة�� �ع ب ب ��� ا ��ل ب �ب �ه� � �و� �م� و �� �� و ر��و م حة� ش� ك�� � ��ط� � ��م�ة�ر ��ا �ء � او �ب�ا � � ص � �ا ��ص ا �ل � �ه� ��� �� ج � ��ا ب �ة �ة �ب � �ب �م�ا ����� ب� � ل�ل � ح�ة �ة� �� ���ش��ر � ب � ط ط � � � � � ك ح ب�ص او ب��ا �ل�� بر� �� او �ب�ا �ب���� ة�ل ب��ا � ��وا ا ك ح � � ل � � � � � � ل ك � � �صو� ص �ل � � ب � �م و و ة ة ص ة� م �م � � � ب ب � � ة ب ة ب ��� د �و�� . �ه ب��ا ك ا �� ا � ح حة�ب�ً�د ��ا ��� او ��ة� ا �ر�هب��ا � ���و�م ��وج� �ة�ا ا �� � �وب�ا �ل��ل��د�ةر �و���د �م����ك ة� � ة ب ة� م � � � ة ا �ب ا �ب ا �� �� ا � ب � � � ا �ل���ة�ا ب� � او � �� ح�ة� �ل� ة�لب ��ة��ا �ب�ا �ل��. � �� �ل��لر���ص ���ب�� ب� ��� د � �ة� ��ط� ح� � � و ة ة ة � ب ا �ب � ب� ب � بب �� ة� �و��م�ةع ة� ا ��ل���ة�ا ب� ا �م�ا �م� �و��� ة� � ح�ة� �و����ل ة� ا ��� ا ��� او د �ة� � �و��دة�ل�� �� ا �ل� ر �ول� �� ب� �ك � ة� ر ب ة ة ة �ب ب ب � ا �� ا � ���م�ب�� ب����ل ة ة ��ا ب ة ب ب � � � � ب ب ب � � �ة ا ب ا � ح�ع ة� �مص د �ل�ك ا �����ل�و ���ر�ل ا �ل��� � ا �م� م�ة� �و �ة� �ر�و�ل�� �ا ��ة� ك�� ��� ���ه�و� �ة� �ل� �ل بة ب بً ب � � ب � ة� د �ل��ل�� ��ل��ل�� �لة �و� ك هو� �ك ب���ر �ة� �م���� � او �ب�ا �م�ا �����ك د �ةل��ل�� .ا ��ة�را ���ل ة� �م��ة� �و ��ط��ل� �ةر����د �� م��س�� ة ة ة � ع ة با �ة � ب ة ة ب ح ة� � ���� ة� ا ب� � � �� ة� ا �ة��د �ك�� ���ل �م بص �ب��و�ة� ا ���� � ح�ة� اةل ك ���ل� ع�ة� � بو�����د �لة���ل ���ع� �مص �� ر � او �� � ر ة ة � ب ب ة � ب ة ب � ب ���د ا ��ل �ع���و��� � او �و� ع� ة� ���� ��ا ��ة� ��م�ا �ا ��ة ة� ا �ل���ة�ا �� .و�كة�ة�ً�د ة���ل ة� ��ة� �ب�ا ��ة� �ب�ا � ا � ��مة��د �ة�� ا ب���د ة ة ة� ة �ب �ب�ا ة ب � �ب ا � �ة ا ب ة ة ش ا � � � � � � ع ا ا ا ا ا ا � ك � � � � � � ك � � �و ب� ل�لرة���ص و� �ل��� � و�ج ة�� و ة���ص ���د � �د ب � ��ر� �ة� ك� � � و ���ة��� و ب � �ة� ب ب � � ح ب�ة�� ة� ا ش�ر � ��ر ة� ا د �و� ��ب� ا ���� او د �ة� � او ب���ة ش�� ��� ا �ل���ة�ا ب� ��م�ا �ا ��ة ة� ��ل�� ب�ب��ر �و�ل�� ب� �و� � برب�� ة� ة ص ة� ً � � ة ب ا ا ��ش � ب� ة � ة � � ب �ة ا ب � � ��ةع� ة� ��ب ��� ه � �� ��ل ة � ا وب ة ة� ة ر و ط�ع� 1ا �ل��ة� ��ص �مص ا �ل��� � .ا ��ة را � ��و ب � حع� ا �ة� ا �ل��د�ةر � او �� �م� ��ة� ً � ً � ب � �� �وة��د ا �� �وة��د ا ا ��ة� ا � �و����ل ة� ا ��ة� ا �ل��د�ةر. � ب � �ب ب�� � ��ا ب � ة�ة � ة � ب ���ا � � او � � ب ا� ة ب ��ل � ب��ا �ة ب�� ��ة� د ��ل��ك ا �لة �صو� �ب�ا ب� ك� ��د �مص ا� بم���دة�ص ا��لب�ة��� ا �ل�د �ة� ��رد ��ر ه�م ك�� � �� او م���ل���ل��ةص م م � ب � � � ب � ���ش�� �ب ب �ً�� ��� ب��� ��ه �م ب ا�ا�م�ة��د � ب �� � ��بل � � � � ا � ا � � � ك � ا �و ��ط�لب �ص او ا ر�وبج مص ل�دةر وب����د ع ب� ���ة� رة���ص ة ر ر ة� ة ر م ص ب ة ص ب ة ً � � ب ���د �و�ة ��ه � �لة��ل�� �ةر ب� ح���� ����ل �ه�و �ش�ا ب�� ة� ا � �ل�� .ا ب��ة�را ���د ب�����د � او � ��� �ع بر�س��� �����ا � �ة��د �ع�ة� � او � م م ة � �ب ب� �ة ا �� � � ا � ا ب ا ب ب� ب ا � � ا � ا ب � � �� � ب �ك� ا �� ة ب���ة ا � � ا ا ا � � � � � �ه �ه � � � � � � م ا ���� د � � � � � � � � � � ل ل � � � � ل � � ل ر ب � ط �و� �م� ر� � �ل ة� �و ر ب � ب � �و �ج � �م ع ب � � � �و ب� ا ������ل�وه ا ���� �ع ب��د �ة� �وك� ���ا ب� �و�ص�و���� ��ل��ل��د�ةر ��� �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل����ا ��� �ام�ا �ب��ر ب� �� �م بص ا ����ط�ا �� ة ة ة ة ع 1ال�أ�ص� :ي���ط ي ��. ل
14
14
١٩،١
٢٠،١
٢١،١
Chapter One
they went to take care of the monastery’s business. I’d join them and take in a walk. One day, two monks set off for the flour mill to grind some wheat for the
1.19
monastery. The abbot ordered them to take me along so I could have a walk. We headed out to a place called Rās al-Nahr, where the mill was located.13 When we arrived and unloaded the wheat from the donkeys, the monks realized that they wouldn’t be able to grind the wheat right away, as many other people had arrived ahead of them. They’d be compelled to spend the night there, waiting their turn. “Brother, go back to the monastery and take the donkey with you,” the monks told me. “Explain to the abbot why we’ve stayed over at the mill, so he won’t be worried.” I headed out, driving the donkey ahead of me. We began to descend when
1.20
we reached the valley, the donkey leading the way. As it clambered down the slope, it seemed to me as though the beast was about to slide down to the bottom! So I raced after it, grasping its tail to hold it back, but it yanked me forward, slipped loose, and galloped off while I tumbled all the way down, battering my ribs. As I recovered from my daze a moment later, I looked around. The donkey was nowhere to be seen. My first thought was that a member of the Ḥamādah tribe must have taken the donkey and made off with it.14 What was I going to tell the abbot? In my desperation, I forgot my aches and pains and set about searching for the donkey in the valley, but it had vanished without a trace! My heart sank. Unsure what to do next, I gave up the search and trudged all the way back to the monastery. As it happened, on that very day, a few of the Aleppan novices I mentioned earlier had grown restless and were asking to quit the monastery. The abbot was upset about this, worried that the other novices would lose their resolve. So he summoned all the novices to him, one by one, and examined each to ascertain whether he was firmly committed or not. When it was my turn to be summoned by the abbot, some monks reminded him that I’d gone off to the mill with the other monks, as he’d ordered. “When he returns from the mill, send him to me,” the abbot replied. Not long afterward, I happened to arrive at the monastery, and as I came inside—feeling ashamed and frightened after the loss of the donkey—I found the monks waiting for me.
15
15
1.21
� �أّ � �ف ا � �ل���ص�ل ا �ل� �و�ل
ب �ل ا � ة �� � � � ب ا �ب �ة � � ��ل � � �ة ا ب ة ا � � ب بة �� �م� ����د � ا ة� ا �ل�دةر � او �� �ة� ل�لك ا ��ا �ل�� �� �ه � �و��ر� � عو ب� �مص �����د �ة� ا �ل��� � �� � �� او �ة� �و �وبج � � ب � � ب� ب ا �ر�هب��ا � ك����ل�� ب��ا ��طرك �ة�ا ا ��ة� ا �ة� �ع ب��د ا �ر���ص ب�لة��د �ع�وك. ة ة ب � ب بة � � ب ب ح�ة �ة �ب��ل�م�ا ���م�ع ة� �مب ��ل�� � � ��� ����ل ك�� �ع ة� �ب�ا � ا �رة���ص���م� ��ة� �����د ا �ل��ة�ا � � بار د ��ع�ب�ة� ��ع ب� � م م ب ا � ع �ب ���ل�� ة ب���ل�م�ا ا �مة�ش���ل ة� ا �م�ا � ا �� ��� � ��� ة � � � ل س� ب���ة���� �ة�ا ا ب��� ب� ��و ب��� �� � ا � � �ده ل � � � � � � � س� رة� ب ب و ص ب ة ة م رة ص وب ة� � � ة ب � ة � ب � ب ا ا ا ا ة � ب ���د �م ب ا�ا�م�ة��د � ب ��� ��� ا �ة��� �ب� ��لة�� ش�� د �ع�ة���ك ���ه��د �ة� ��ل���ل�� �ل� �ة� ا ب� �� �و�� . حة��ً�د ����ة� �ب� � ك�� �م � او � ص ب ة ص ب ص ر ص ة ب ا� ة ب ب ة ب � ب � � ب ب � ب ب � ���ط�ا ��لب��� ب ا �ل � ��ر ��ة�ر��ه �مص ا� بم���دة�ص ��� �ر�و ب� �م بص ا �ل��د�ةر �و�ل� ب���ل ا � ���د ا �ل�� ةص ��ر� ا ح��ص ج بة � � م ب � � � ب ش � ة ا � � ب ة � � � � � � � ��د �م ��� � او ح�ب� ر ����ل �ه�و �� ب��� ا � �ل� �لة��ل� ك��ل �م�ده ة رب � او � ���د ب����د � او � � او � ��د � بو�لة����ة ر م ج �م ة � ���ب�� ب� ب� �ر�� ��ب���ة�ره. ً ب �س� ������ ة ��� ا �ب � �ش ا �� ة ا � � � ب �� �� � �م� ة ا ح�ة��� ��� ا �� ب�� �� � ��ل�� ��ا ا ��ا �ب�ا �بر�و� � � � ا ب��� ا �� ��د � � � ك � � � � ة �ل ��ة� �ل �ك ب� م �ل ب ب ةر ب لم �ة� و ة ب ج ة ا� ا � ح�ب��د � ش � � ��� �ب ّ � � �ا � �ع ب� ب �� � � � � �ب � � �بر ب� بل��� �� �� ب� �م�ة�ل�م ع ا �ة� ا �ل�د�ةر� .ة ً ب ��ص و بح� �ة� و � � ة ��و ح� �ة� ��ل ب� �و�م� �ب� ��ة ����ة� ب م ة � � ة ب �ة ج ب �� ب � � � � ب �� ا �ل� ��ا ��ا ����� � � ���� � � � �ر�� �ة�ب����لب���ك �ة�ا ا ب��� �وة�ر ب� �����ك ا ��ة� ا �����ا ا�م �م����ل�و ب� �ة�ا اب� ��ة� �و�ل� �ا �ل ة ب � وة �ة� �ل �ة� ب ب ب ل� �� � � � ب ��م � ا �� � ب ة � ا ��ل � � ا �ب�ب �� ب ب � � ب ب ا �� ح�� �ة� �� ةص �م�ا ���لة��� د �ع��ة� �ة�ا ا �ب�ا �ب�ا ا �ك�ة � ��ر ة �صوم و � ��ر ك�ة ��� �ة�ل� �����ة� �ب� � ك��ل م �وةرة ��ة� ب ٰ ا ّلل� ب�ل �ص ب� ح�ب���. � و ة ة �ب ب � �� ب ش �كب � ب�ة� ا� ا ب� � ة � ب � ب �ب ة ب ة ا � � ح � � ك � ا � ا ا ا ا � � � � ع ك ��ر�ة� �ة� �و � � ر ��ة� رة���ص وب� � ��ة� � � �ر و�م� ر بح� مص ��ده ر��ة� ج م � � ب ة ب ب ة ب � � ���� ب�� �م ب ا �� �ه��ا ب� � ا �ة��ب��� ب ا ا ب ب ب ة ب � � � � � � ح ��� � ة� �� ة�ل��ل� ��و�ة� �لة��ل� ا ��ة ر �عرم�ة� �عص ا �ر� بع����. ةص �ب� ������� ب ص ص رب و ة � � ب �� �� �م ة ا �� �� � ا ب ا ا � �ة ا ب ب � � ة �ب ا � ا �ة ة ب � ��ص� او �مص ك��ل �ة� �و�� ��و�ة� م� ���د �ل��� � ���م �ع بص ا �ل��� � ����ل �و ب��د �وه ا �م �ل� كب � حة��ً�د ���� �ل � ب � �ب ة � � ة � ا ��م � ة ب ة م او �ب ��ة ��و����� ��ة� ا ب� ���د ا ا �ل��د �ة� ب�لة�� ��و�ل �ع ب��� ب��ا � ك � ار � �وة�� �مك�� ��م ة� �����ا �� او ة�ل�ب����� � ح��ة�� �����م �ب� ب م � ا � ��ة�ا ب ا �� �ه �ا ب ا � ة �ا ب � ب ��س���� �� �م����ك �م�ا ��رب� ب�ل��ل �ا � ا ��� � ك� �سس���ا � �وه �م بص ب� ش���ره �و�ام�ا � ب� �ل� � ر ب� � م�� ��� �ل��ل�ة ج ة �ع ة ً ب ب � ب � ة � ب ب � ا ب م��ا ���� ا �� ب� ا � ب ��ا � � ب� �ب ا � ���ا � �و�ا �كة� ة� ا �ل� ة� بص � ب� ���� او ا ��ة� � ك� � م ة ��� ا �ل�دة�ص ك�� ��� او �ل� ح� �ة� ا �ة� ���د ا �م� � � ب ً �م� � ب ب � � �و���د ا ب�لة�������ل�وه د ا ة��م�ا. س� م � ب � �� ة � ة ة ب �س�ة��م ة� بد ��ل��ك ا �لب ا �ر �م�ا د ا ا �ع�م��ل � او � ة � �� حة�ب�ً�د � ��بص ���لب��ة� �و�س ب� ��ة�� ة� ا �ة� ��ل��ة� ��ة� ا �ك�ة � ��� � � ب � � � با � ب ��ا ا �� ا ب ا ���م ا �������ا � � �����د�ك� ��ل ة ا �� ��ة��د ا د� ب� � � � �وةل��ل�ك ا �ل��لة���ل�� ��� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل�� �كب ك� ا � م ه � � � �� � � ة� � ب� � ب ج بو �م� � رة ص ة��ص ة ب ة �ب ج � � ب �� � � ب� �ة � ب ا �� � �ب �ا ب ا � ة � � �س��ة��م ب��ا �ع ب ��ة��� ا �ل حة�ب��د ا �� ��ا ب� ة� � � � ��ر�وا م ل ا � � � � د � . � ل ل � ه حب� �و����ا �ل ب��ا ا بل ك�� � � �ر�وجب ةر ً رب ص ص م
16
16
٢٢،١
٢٣،١
٢٤،١
٢٥،١
Chapter One
“Brother, if you will, go to the abbot,” they said. “He’s calling for you.” At the sound of these words, I was certain the abbot had heard about the
1.22
donkey’s disappearance. My terror mounted. I presented myself before the abbot and kissed his hand, and he ordered me to sit down. “Brother, do you know why I summoned you?” he asked, frowning. “No, Father.” “A few of the novices have asked to leave the monastery,” he said. “Such an event would be harmful to the other novices, so I’ve been questioning each man to establish whether he’s firm in his resolve or not. I do this to avoid having novices trickling out periodically, which is difficult for the others to bear.”15 After going on at some length in this way, he finally asked if I was deter-
1.23
mined to stay or not. “No, Father,” I replied without hesitation. “I need to leave and seek medical treatment in Aleppo. When I’m well again, I’ll return to the monastery.” He smiled and began to exhort me gently. “Don’t let the novitiate make you give up and return you to the world a defeated man, my son,” he said. He went on speaking in the same kindly manner until at last I spoke. “Father, let me think on it today, and see how God guides me.” The abbot was satisfied with this response, and he blessed me and sent me
1.24
on my way to do some thinking. As I emerged from his quarters, I saw some of the monks waiting for me, hoping to convince me to change my mind about leaving the order. I asked them whether they’d found the donkey. “What donkey?” they asked, confused. I told them what had happened, and they broke into grins. “The monks rented that donkey in Bsharrī,” they replied. “When it came back with you, it didn’t run away—it just went home to its village! Don’t worry, brother, it’s not lost. All the donkeys returned to their stables, including the ones you took to the mill. That’s what they always do.” Relieved, I went to my cell to think about what I would do. I spent all day and night until morning lost in thought. After the masses were over, the abbot gathered us all together and asked if we still intended to leave the monastery. “Yes,” we replied.
17
17
1.25
� �أّ � �ف ا � �ل���ص�ل ا �ل� �و�ل
ة �� � � ��ا ا ������ ا �� ب ��س��ا ش�ل��ا �ل ب��ا � ل ب��� � ��� � ��ل�� ب ح ب��ا �و�ش�����ل � �وب�ا ش�لة��ا ب� ا ��لب� �ة��ة�ر �ود ا �ود اب� بص ب� �واة ب� ا � � ل� ح � � � ص � �� � � �ل ب��ا �� ب � � و و ب و ة و ب ر ةص ب ب با � ا � ب � � �� �مب ا � ب �ش �ا ���� ب ���ل� � �م� ب ب ا ش ا با � � ���اة�لة���ل ب� بص �ة��و�م�ا �� �ك � وة��و � ب ص �� ةص ب ب�ة� و ة �وا ب���د �م� �لب����س�� �لة�� ب�ل�� �ود ع�� ا رة���ص � � � او �ر�هب��ا ب� �و ب�ر ب� ح ب��ا �م بص ا �ل��د�ةر. �ب ب � � ّٰ ب ة �ة ب ب� � ةة � ا ���د ا �و ��ة� د �ل��ك ا ���و�ك� �و����ل ا ��ة� ا �ل��د�ةر �ة���ص ا ����� �م �و�ه�و ا � ��ع��ص �عب��د ا لل� اب�ص �ر�ة� ����ة� � ب � ب � �ا�م�ا ا �ب�ا ب��ا ��� ب ةص � برب� �م بص ب�ر�ة� ���ط��ل�و�ع ب��ا �م بص ا �ل��د�ةر ������� ���لة�ب��ا �ود ��� �ة� ا ��ة� ب��ا ب�لب��� � او � �� � �ب ح�� ة� ة ً ب �� ا �� � ب � ب ب� � ا �م ب ا�ا� ة � � ب � ا ة ا �ةك �مب � � � ً ة ب ة ة � �و ص بم���دة�ةص م� ���د � ب���ل ���� و�ل� �م��ه� ��� ار ��ا �ة�ل� ا �ع����د �ة�ا اب� ��ة� ا � ك���ل ل�دة ص رب � م ة � �� �ب ب ب ة � ة � ��ة ب � ب ة � � ا � � � � � � ه � او � ��د �و � ل�ص ا � ا ��� � ب��ع� ب ب��لك � �وب� �ك��ة� �و ��� ا س���� ب�����ل� � . ة م � ش � ب ة � ب ا �� ��� � ب ب ا �ة�ب ا ب �� ب ا � ب ا ا ب �ة �� �س ب� ب ا ��ة���� ب��مة��ه�� �و�ل� ��ل�� ���� �ةرة�ص ح�ة� �و���ل�� ا �ة� ط ارب�ل�ل��ص � ارة�ل�� ���� 1ل �م���� �ر ا �ة� م � ب � ب � ا ا ة ب ���ل �م ب��ا �ا � ا ��� �م ح�ب��ا ا ��� ���ل� �وك�� � ���ل�� ب��ا � ة � � � � �س�ة��م ة� د ��ل��ك ا �لة �صو� � �ل � م � � � � � � � � �سم ��ل ب� � ةر ب ج ة وب ة ة م � ب�� ب ��ب ا ��ل��� ة� � ح ة� � �وش�ا �ب� �ة ��و� �� ح�ة� ا �����ةر� �وا ب��� ��� بار ة� ح ة� �����ل�م ة� ���� �م����ل��م� ا�ام�د ��و� �� ة� ب ة ة ة م ة ة � �ب ب ب ب ا � �ةًا � ا � ا � �� ا � ب ا ��ة�ب ا �ة � � � � � ��ةه ا ب � �� � � �� ب �ب��ل�م�ا �ا �� �وب� ح�� �ود ���ر�� بل ك� ��ل م� �ة� ���� ب��� �و م� �� د ع�ط� �ة� ل��� � �و�ل� �� د ة ب���ل �ب� � ة� ة ة � �� ب � �ب ��ا ب ب� � ب ��ش ا �� �ود ا �ة� �ع��ده ��� �� ا ح ��ر م��� ك���ة�ر. �ل� ك � � ة � �س�ة��م ة� �م�ة��د ا �ش�ل�� �ش�� ا �ش�سه � ا �ب�ا د ا � ��ب���� �ش�مب���� � �ل�� �ع�م�� ب��د ا �كة ة� ا ��ل��د ب�ل��ا ب��ا � ة � � � و ةر ب ة ر ل و � ة ل � بّ ب ا �� � ���� � � �ب ا � ة � ة ة ���ا �ة��ب���ل �ا � ا ��� ��ط �رل��ل�� �بر� ح ة� �و لل�دةر � � ��ة� �و� ��و��ة ة� ���� رب � ����طب��ر� ح�ة� ��� ة ةج ة ب ص � ة ب � ة � � � ب ا �� �ة ا ��� � ا ة � ا ب ا� ة ���د �م ب ا � ط�� ��اب ��ة� �ب��د �ة� ا ������ل�� �م���� �و���د ا ا � �ل � م � � � � � � � ط � �سم � � ب � ر ة� و �ة ب و ص ��ر��ة� د ب� ص � � � �ب ب بً �ب � ة � � � ب ب ����ل��� ح�ة� �ل�� � ���د ة����ر�� ��ة� ب�ر�و ب��ة� ��ل ب� �لة��ل� ة�م����و��ة� ا �ة� ���ا �ع بص ا �ر� او �. � ة ج ب ب ة ة ب� ة � � ب � ة ب � � � �ب ب با ة �ب ب�كة��ا �ة� �ة ��و� ا �����ة ��� ���� � �� ح� ا �ل����ل�� �م � او ��د � ب������ص � �واةب ج ا �ل�د �ة� ب�لة��لر� ��و�ة� �مص ��� �ة��� م م �� � ب � � �ب ب � � � ب ��ا ب �ة ا ب � ا ش � ب � ب ل ة ا ب � � � � � � � � � ع �� ا � � � �م � ع � �و�س��� � �و م� ة��سب�� د �ل�ك و ب�ة��� ب ة� �ة� رب ا ل�د ة� ك� � ��د ة� مص ول م�ره ج ع � ب� � ة ب � ة ة � حع ة� ا ��� ب��ا ب� ا �� ب �� ة ش م��ا ب� ا ��ل ب��ا ب ��ل ب�ك��� ا �� ��ة��ا ���ط ب�� �ب��ل�م�ا � � � ح � ك � � و رب ر ة� ح� �مص ا �لب�ة��� �و� ��و ب� � ة� � ة رة ة ب � � � با ب � ب � � ب � � �و����ل ة� �و����ا �ل ة� �ع بص ا � ��ة��ا ��طر ب��ة� ة��ا ��� او ��ة� �ب�ا �ب�� �ا � ة ��م��ل ا ��ة� � او � ���د �رب��� ا �ل��د �ة� �ه�و �� ��ل ج ة ب �ب � ة ب� � � � ب ب� ة ب ح�ب��د �ع ب�كة ���ا ب� � ب��� ����اة� �م ب �� �س ا � � � ا � ���د � � ك �وا ب�� ����ة رة��و� � �ة� ب�ة��� � �وا ب��� ا ��ة�� .ة ً ر و ل ج ص وج ب ة � � �� ا ب �ب ب ا � ب �� � ���ا � ب��اة�ة� �م بص �ب�ل��د ا �ل���مب�ة��� �و����ا � ��ة� �ل��ل�ك ا �لب��ل��د �ب����بع ة� � ك ����ل�ط� � ر����� �وك ح��ة�� ��� �بر ج � �م � � ة ب ���ا ب� ا ���م�� ب� ��و�ل ���وك� ���ده ة���س�و� ��� �ب�ل��د ا ��ل ش���ر�ةكة��� ا �عب��� ا ����ر�ل���� ٢وك� ���ا. ��طر���ة� �و�م بص ���ل ب� ��� ج ة بة ة ة أ ف ف ف ع� ا �ل�ع ���ه » ف� ا �ل���ا � ش م��س. 1ال��ص�ل� :را ري���ا « ٢ .ا � ي� رفي يى �
18
18
٢٦،١
٢٧،١
٢٨،١
٢٩،١
Chapter One
So the abbot ordered that our personal effects be returned to us. The monks had us remove our initiation robes and we put on our own clothes again. There were four of us: myself, Dāwūd ibn Jabbūr al-Kwayyis, Yūsuf ibn Shāhīn Çelebi, and Mikhāʾ īl ibn Tūmā Ḥawā. Once we were dressed, we said goodbye to the abbot and the monks, and left the monastery. At that precise moment, the superior general, Father ʿAbdallāh ibn Qarāʿalī,
1.26
happened to arrive at the monastery.16 He was saddened to see us leaving, and began to pray for us. He called me over to his side. “Know this, my son,” he said to me privately. “I’ve never allowed a single novice who left the monastery to return. But if you come back, I’ll accept you.” He blessed me and told me to go in peace. We set off, and made our way to Tripoli, without stopping on the road once.
1.27
In Tripoli, we found a caravan traveling to Aleppo, so we booked passage and returned home. When we arrived, each of us went to his own house; I spent the remainder of the day resting. The next day I went to pay respects to my master, the aforementioned khawājah Rémuzat.17 As soon as he saw me, he set about scolding me, reminding me of what he’d told me earlier.18 He was so upset he could scarcely look my way, and refused to let me visit him again. I spent three months searching fruitlessly for work. Finding myself in dire
1.28
straits, I decided I would return to the monastery and wait till a caravan was set to travel to Tripoli. When one was preparing to leave, I rented a horse from the muleteer, telling him it was for a friend. I did this so no one would find out I was leaving Aleppo and try to stop me. The next day, I rose just before the call to the dawn prayer and gathered the clothes I’d need: underpants, shirts, and so on.19 I stuffed them into a satchel I’d used on my first trip and left the house for Khān al-Zayt, where the muleteer was staying. When I arrived and asked after him, I was told he’d gone to handle the luggage of a Frank who was staying at the home of khawājah Sauron, my brother’s master. I knew who the Frank was. He was a traveler dispatched by the sultan of France, and had arrived from Armenia, which he’d toured as a traveling doctor.20 From Aleppo, his plan was to travel through the East—that is, Arab lands. His name was Paul Lucas.
19
19
1.29
� �أّ � �ف ا � �ل���ص�ل ا �ل� �و�ل
� ً ّ � ش �ب ب ا ��ا ���د �م ب ا ��ل ا ب��ة�را ��م��ل ة� ب�ر ب��� ���� ا � � ���لب�ة��� ل���دة���ص �وك ���ا � � ��و ب�� �ود �ه�� ك ك�� �م � او � ص ة ة� ب ا ب� ة ب ا ل� � ة ا �� � ة ش ح�ب��ا �م����ا �ب � ب �م� � ة ب ب ة � ة � ح�ب��د ���� � � � � � � ع ا � �������ل �����ل��� � رةص ل��م ��و��� او ب�ل�� م����ة� ا �ة� ���ةص �م� بةب��ة� ا � ���� �طر ب �ة� .ة ً ب �ب � � � � � ة � ة ة ب ا ا ا ا ا ا ا ا ب ب ب � � ����د �ش�سب��ا �و��� �ر� ح�ة� �و���ل�� ا ��ة� ا � ��هب��� � او ����� ���ود �و�م� ا ب�� ا � ���� ��طر ب��ة� ب���ل��س�� �ه�� ك ب ةب ب �� ه � ��ب بد ��ل��ك ا ���� �كة ة� ا �ب�ا ب��� ة� ��ل�� ��� � �� �ب�ع� ة� �ش���ا �ش��� ا ��ل���ل�ب�� � ��ل���� ة س� ا ب��ل � بر�م�� ةر �������� ر و ة� و �ة� و ة ة� ب ة ص و ب ة � � � ح ة �ة�ب�����لمة �ك�� ة ب� � �����ل ح ب� � �وب��ةعة� ة� ���� �ةع�ة��� ا �ل�� بم��ر � بو�����د � بع�ةس���� �و����ل ا � ��ة��ا ��طر ب��ة� � بو�����ده � م � ة� و � ب ة �ة ب � � �� ب ب ا� ب � �� � �م� � ا �� ب� ب ����ل� �ل��� �ب� �ب �ب��ب ا ��ل � �� � � � � � � ا ك � �و����ل د �ل�ك ا ���ر��� ا� � ح م�د ك � � � � � � �م�� ��ا �ل �كب�� ة� � � � � ب ب و � و � � ة � � ة و و و بع ص م ر ة ة� بة ب ة � ب ب ة ا ا ب ب � � � � � دب���ة� �و���ر ة� �و� ��ره� . ���د ة� كب��ل�م� �ة����ل� او ا �لة��� �و�عب�� �عص ��� ة م بً ب� ب ش ب ا �� �� � ة ة �ة � � � ب ة ��بهة��� ب � ا ل � � � � � � � � � ا ك � � ا ا ا �ل ا م � � �� �� ه � � ح � � � � � ع ��� د �س� � � � � ة ر و ع�و و� ب �و و ص ة � و �م� ل ك � ب � ب �ل بة �صوم ة� ةص ا � ��ب ب ب � � ب � ب ا ا ب ا� �� ة � ب ا �ة ح ب ب�ع ة��ا �ب�� ب �ب � ة � ةص �م بص �ل��ل�ك ��� ��لة��� ح�ة� �و���ل�� ا �ة� ��ه���ةص �و ص ر �ل� ��ل�� ���� �ةرة�ص � او�م�طر ب�لة�� ب ا ��ل���س ���ط�ا � ب��د ب���ل ب��ا ا ���� ب���� ة� ا �� ��ة��ا ���ط ب��� �و ��ب� ا ��ل ��ا ��ل ا �وة��د ��ل ب��ا �ب�ا � ��ب� ا ��ل���و ب��ا �ة�� . حة�ب�ً�د ة ة ة رة ة ب � ب � � ب ة ب ب ب ب ��م� ش�ل��ا �ل ب��ا � ا � ��� � ب �� ب ا � �ش�����ل ب �� �بر�ا �ب��� ش � ح��ا �م�ا ���لة�ب��ا �و� ��ة� �ر�ل ��ة� �ل�لك ا �ل�� �ة ح��� �ه�و �و��دا �م�� � ب���ل ة ب و رب ب � � � ب �م���� ��ا ة � ة ���ا ب� � ��ة��د �� ب���ل�م�ا ا �����ةر� ب �مص �ب�ل�د ا �ل���م�ة��� ة��� ك�� � ��و�ل�ة �� � �� ��� �س �وة�� ���م�ع ة� ح��ا �ش � ���ده ك� ة ص ة� ة � �� �ب ا �� ا � �د � ا �ل ب� �م ب ا � � ب ح�ب��د ب�ع�ة ا �� ب��� ب� � ا �� ��ة��ا ���ط ب�� �ع�م�ا ��ل�� ب � � � ا ا �ل � ل� � �د ل �� � � � . � � � م � � � � � ل � ل � � � ب ب � � و ص و ر ة ً رب �ة� و ر ة� ةص ة ب ة م ص ة� � � �ب ب ب �ب � ا ب � ب ب ة � ا ة � �ة � � ب �بل� اب ��� �� �ل���� � ا � ���ر� ا � ��ة��ا ��طر ب��ة� ب��م�ا ا �ب�� ب�لة���رك�� �ب � �وا ب��� �م� د ا � ح�� ��ك ��و�ل �����د ا ا �� � ��ة� �و����ة� ب ة ة ب ة م � � �ب ا � ة ا� ب ب� ة ب ا �ل ة �ب اب �� � ا ب ا �� ب� ب ا � � �� � � � � � ا � �� � ا ا � � �م � � � � � � م�د ل �و� بل�ل���� � �ر���� و ة� م� د ةرة��د ����� � ةرة��د �و�م�ا �ه�و �س ��ط� �ل �وب�� ك���� � �� �ة� ة �ة � � � ب �ب � ا �ب ة ا ة ��� ا �ل�� �ل�م� �ود ا ة� ���م ة� ا � ����ا ��طر ب��ة� ���� ���ا �� بص ���و ب�� ���ل ب� ب���� ب��ص �� � � �و�م� �اة�ل � �واةب م ج ة ب � ة �ب ��ب � ب ب � � ب ب ب ً ا�ب ل ة�ة ب� � ب �. �ع ب��د �ة� � ��و� � حة��ً�د ا ��ب����س ��ط ا � ���رب��ة� � او ��سم����ر ب��ة�ر�ة� .ا ��ة�را ���� � ��ة� �صو�� � �ة� ا ر ج ��� ا ب�� ة �م����� ب���ة���لة��� � �ب�� ب�لب��ع �ة ا ّٰ � �ة�� ا �� �ة � � �ة ا ب �د � ب � � � ب ا �لة � � � �ب�ب �ش ا ��ش �ل � ة��ة� ل� ه�م �م� لل �� �� ��ة� �ل� ��و �� �ة� �ل��ة� �ة ��ك �ل��� ��� ص ب ا ب�لة�ب��ص��مب� ة� ا �ب��ك �م���ل��� . م ب �ة �بب ب ب ً �� � ّ ا �� ب ش ة ة ا ب �كب ك� � � ل � � ل � ع � � � � � � � �� �� � � ��� �ل��ة� �ب�ا �ة� ا ب���ل��ص ع��ده � او ��ة� م�� � ب�ة��� .ا ��ة را ب ���� �ب� ب �ل�و ص ب �ل��س� ج ة ب ب ب �� ب � ب ب ا ��بل ا � � ا ب � ب � ش ا ��ا ب بة � �� � � �د � �� ��ر�� د م� �ب� � ةح� �� ب� ��ا ���ع ش���ة�� ة� ��را ���ع���� �وك�� � �م���� �مص ��ل ب� �� او ده � او �ره �وب ة ة �س�ة��م ب��ا با ا ب� ب ����ا �م ب ا ����ع ش����ا ش��� �ل ب��ا ا �� ��ة��ه�وه �و ب��ا ب� ��ل ب��ا ا ���ب���ل�� � ب��ل�� �ة�� ب ا ��لة���ة ب � او � ة � ا �� � او �ة� ه � بو�����د ��ل�و� ص م ةص ص بر
20
20
٣٠،١
٣١،١
٣٢،١
Chapter One
At last I was able to load my satchel onto the packhorse. There were a few Aleppans traveling with the caravan. “Come on,” I told them, “let’s start walking while we wait for the muleteer to arrive.” We set off, tugging our horses along, and soon arrived at the dome and column.21 The muleteer still hadn’t appeared, so we sat and waited. Meanwhile, I changed my clothes and wrapped a white turban cloth around my head. I put on my boots and adjusted my satchel properly. I was ready to go. After a short while, the caravan driver arrived, followed by the aforementioned Frank. He had four or five khawājahs with him, each of whom would have recognized me! So I jumped on my horse in a flash and rode off alone, disappearing from view before they arrived. The khawājahs finally bid farewell to the Frank, and our caravan set off. Our baggage had been sent the day before to Kaftīn. We made our way there, riding without rest even as the rain poured down. We reached Kaftīn half-drowned, and went to the muleteer’s house. He quickly lit a fire for us in the stove, and we stripped off what we were wearing and set about drying our clothes. The Frank came in with his servant, a Catholic man from Armenia, on pilgrimage to Jerusalem. After we’d rested awhile, I heard the Frank and the muleteer speaking, but neither could make sense of what the other was saying. The muleteer called for me because he knew I understood the Frankish language. “Hey, do me a favor and ask the khawājah what he’s after,” the driver said. I put this to the fellow in French. “I entrusted some things to the muleteer when we were in Aleppo,” the Frank explained. “And now they’ve vanished!” When I explained this to the muleteer, he replied that he had the things in question tucked away in one of his bags. The Frank was pleased to hear this, and thanked me profusely. “Are you a Christian?” he asked. “I am, by the grace of God.” “Forgive me,” he said. “I’d seen you wearing a white turban and mistook you for a Muslim.” He asked me to sit and dine with him. I declined, but he insisted, so I joined him. He ordered his servant to prepare dinner. They’d brought plenty of provisions with them from Aleppo, along with some good wine. We had dinner, followed by coffee, and the young servant then brought us a pair of tobacco pipes to smoke. We stayed up, chatting into the night.
21
21
1.30
1.31
1.32
� �أّ � �ف ا � �ل���ص�ل ا �ل� �و�ل
� بة � � ب ة ب �ب ة ً � ب م او ��ب�� �لة����ا ��ر ا �ب�ا � او �ة�ا ه �ك����ا � ��ة� ��ا �ة�ل�� �ة� ا ب�� ة� �م بص اة�ل ب��ا ��ط�ا �ة����� ���لة���ل�� ا �ب�ا �م بص ��ط�ا �ة����� ا�ا � ��ب ب� ب ب � ��ب ب ب ب ب �ب ب ا � او �ب�ا ب����ر���ك �ام�ا ك�� ة� ��ة� ���ل ب� �وك�� ة� �ب�ا ��ل ��ة� ب��ة�� ة� �� �وا ب��� ����ة�ر�و� ا � ��� �ر���� �و�ة� � او ��ة� �ب ب ب بة �ب ب بة ب ة ب �ب � ك ة���لة���ل�� �ب���ه �ك ب��ه � �� ������ م �ع ب��ده م � � بر ب� ح ب� �ب�ا �ب�� ك��ة ��� �م�ا ����� �ب�ا �ب��ك �م����ا �ر�م�ه ب��ا. حة��� �ه�وا �� و رب ة� �ة� �ة ب م � ة � � ب ة� ة ا ب ب ا ا � ب ا ا ب حة��ً�د ��ل���ل�� �ب� � ا ��ة� �م� ��� � �ل�� �ب��ر ��ة� ��ط��ل�و�ع�ة� �مص ���ل ب� ���ة� �ل� �ة� ���ب�� ب� �م� ��� � ة � � �ة � � ب �ل�� ب�ب��ر ���لة���ل�� ���و �ة����ة�ر �ل�� ب�ب��ر �ام�ا ا ��ط��ل��ب�� ا ����ا �ر. ة ا �ب �ب ا ����ة�� ة ب � � �ة ة ب� ا ة � ة � ب ا � � �ب �ب ة � ب بة � � � �� ل � ا ا � ا ا � � � � � � ه ح حة��ً�د ���ة� ا �ة� اة�ص ا ��� �م���� ر � ة�� ب� ر ب ��ة� �م� ل� � �ةج ب ��س�وج �ة� ب ب �� ب ا ةب � ب � � �ب ة � ���د ا �ة��لة���ل�� � ط� �ع�ة���ل�� �ب�ا ��� �ا � ب���س�و� �و � ��� ���د ا �ه�و �� ��ل ��س� ��لة�� ح�ةة� ا ب� ا �ل�د �لة�� �و ب�ل ���ربج �و � ة ة ة ج ج ع ع ٰ � �ا � ا ب ب ��ا ب� �ب��ةر���د �ة��س�و� �م�ا ب�لة��ة��د � �ة��ةع ش��م� ا � ح ك� د �بر ا ّلل� ب���ة���� ا بل ك� ح��� بص �مب��� � او � �� �ة� �ب� ��� ��ر�����ل �مص ة� ة ة ج ع � � � ا ب �ب ب ة � ���ة� �م�ا ا ا ه � ا �ب��ة ش�� �� �ة�� ا ب� �ة�د � � �� �م�د ا ��ل��ا ا � � ح � و ص �ة� و ة�ج م و �ة� ة ����ل��ط� � ر����� �ة� ا د �و� ا �لب��ل�د � او ك ب ب � ش ا ش � �ب ة � ش ا�ب ب �ة ا �ع��ة� �م���ا �م��ل�� �م��ل�وك ا � ����د �م �و����� ب������ص ح���� ة���ص � ��و ب � �وده �ة� ����ل �ب�ل�د ��م ���� � ��ة� ����ل ة � ب بً � ب ح ة� �م��ه ا �ب�ا ب ب� ���ا �ة�� ا ب� �� �لة�� �ب �ة��ة ا � � ا ب ا ��� � �ة��لة��� � �ب�� � � ا � ب�� � ا � ���ل�����ك ��ة� ة� ب �ر� �ر بل�ل���� � � برة� ل� ه�م وب� �رب��ة� ة�� ة� ة � � � � ��ة� ا ����ر�ل��� �و�ل����ة�ر ��ل��ك ���ل�وب��� �م بص ا�ام��ل�ك �و�لة���ة�� ش�� ���ط�و��ل �ع��رك � ب� بار ب�� ة� ا � ك ح ة� �ب�ا �م ا�ام��ل�ك ل�� ب ب ة بة ب ص ب ة � ب � ب � ب ب � او �ب�ا ���و���ة� �م بص ا ���و��ةر �ب�ا �ة� ا ���د � ب���ل ة����ر�� �ة��� ار �ب�ا ���� بر�ة� �م بص ����ل �ب�ل��د �و���د ا ب�لة����ة�ر �ل��ك � ب � ب � � ب �� �ة � ة� � � �ة��لة � � �ب�� ش� ة �لة��� ��� ب ة ة ة ا ب ة � �م�ة� � ار � ب����ب�� �ب� ���ك �ب��ر�وج� �م��هة� ا ��ة� م�� ��ة ر ع��ة�� ا �ب� رة��د ر�وج م��هة� ��ل� ه� �م ����ة� ب ة ب � ب م ة � ة � ا � � ة ش ا ةم � � �ب �� �ة � ة �ب ا � ح�ة ا ����ة �ب � � � � � � � ا � � � ل بر �ب��ه��ةر .حة��ً�د ��ل��ل�� �م� ب���� �� ة ���ك � ار � �� ب��� ا �ل� �ة� طربل�ل��ص و� � �ة� ب� ة� ة� �� � � � ب ً ة � � ة ب ا �ة ب �ب ا ة �ب �ة ب ب �ع��� ����ل �ه�و ��� د �� �ة� ����ل ك��ل� �م ا �م �ل� .ا ��ة�را ���ة� �ل� � ���� �ك�ة� �ة� ����ل د � ب� ح�ة� ������ل � � ب ة ب�ب � ة ة � � � ب � ب ��ا ب ا ب ا ��� ��ط ار �ل��ل�� �وك� ���ا � ��� ���م �ب�ا ���� بر�ة� ا ��م�ا ك���ا � ���ده ح�ة� ا �ر ب �م��ل�� �ل� � ا �ل��د �ة� ك�� � �م���� �م� ب�لة�� � ة ب ص � � ب �ة � ً� � ا ب � ة � ا � ب ب �ً ة ا ب ب ب ة ة ب ا ة ب � � � � � � � � � �� ��� �لة��ل� ب�ل�ل���� � ا ل��لة�� �ة� � بحب��� ���� ا � ار ��ص � او �����ةص .ا ��ة را ا ��س�� ���� م�� �و�ح� ة� م � ة � � ة � � ة ة ب � ����ا � ب���ل�م�ا ا � ب���� ب ح��ا ة���ل ب��ا ا � ��ة��ا ��طر ب��ة� �ب�ا �ب�� �ب�ة�ر�ة��د لة ك �ع ب��د ����ة��ا ��ة� � ب�و��� ب��ا �ل��ل�ك ا �ل��ل���ل�� ا �� ا �� �����ر ة ة� � ب ج ب �� � ا ��ل � �ب ا ���ب � ��س���� �����ا د �ة���� . د ل�ك ة �صوم �ة� �ة م
22
22
٣٣،١
Chapter One
“Which community are you from?” he asked. “I’m a Maronite,” I replied. “I heard of you when you were living in Aleppo. You were staying in the home of the Frenchman, khawājah Sauron. My brother works for him as a warehouseman.” “The warehouseman was your brother?” he asked me. “Yes.” “Why didn’t he tell me that you were traveling with us?” he asked in surprise. “Because he didn’t know I was leaving Aleppo.” “Why ever not?” “If he’d known, he wouldn’t have let me go,” I replied. At this, the Frank asked me where I was headed. I was too embarrassed to tell him the real story, so I merely said I was on a voyage to explore the world. This was a ruse meant to throw him off the scent, but as a result, he was convinced that I was indeed setting off on a voyage. Such was God’s plan! “If you’re interested in travel, you won’t find a better companion than me,” he said, and explained that he’d been sent by the sultan of France to tour these lands and to write an account of what he saw. He was in search of old chronicles and of medallions—coins struck by kings of old—as well as particular plants to be found in this part of the world. “Do you know how to read Arabic?” he asked. “Yes, and French as well,” I replied. “If you come with me, I’ll arrange a position for you at the Arabic Library,” he offered.22 “The king will pay you a salary and you’ll spend your whole life under his protection. The king’s minister has charged me to bring home a man from this part of the world who knows how to read Arabic. You’d benefit greatly from the minister’s good graces. Will you come with me?” “Yes,” I said. “Do I have your word that you’ll come to Paris with me?” “Not until we reach Tripoli,” I said, thinking I should look into whether he was being truthful or not. “In that case, while we’re on the road to Tripoli, don’t leave my side,” he said, as he intended to have me serve as a translator. The fellow who was traveling with him didn’t understand Arabic, only a little Italian. “Happily,” I replied. I took my leave and rejoined my companions. I spent the night with them, and in the morning when we awoke, the muleteer said that he wanted to spend the day in the village, as he usually did.
23
23
1.33
� �أّ � �ف ا � �ل���ص�ل ا �ل� �و�ل
� ب ا� ب�� ا ب � ة �ب�� ����� ة �ة ب � � ب � ب ب���ل�م�ا ���م� ا ��بل �� ��س���� �����ا � ة�����ا �ل �س��ة��م د �ل��ك ا �لة �صو�م ��ة� ا ���ة �وا ب��� ا�م�د ��و� �ب� � ا � �� � �ل ب ة ب ع � �ا ب � د �ة ��� �مب ��� �ع�م�ا �ه �ة�دة��م�� �م بص ا �ة�ا � �م��ل�وك ا ��لب����ا �ا �ب�د ����وه ��� ب� � � � � �����ا ة�ل ب��� ا بل ا �ل� � � ك � � � حب��ل� ب � و و ر ب ة� م ة م ا بة ة ا � � ة ا �� �� � � ا ب �ه ب ا � � �ع ا � �ب ب �ب ا � � � � � د د د � �� � � � � � � � � � � � م � � � ل � � ك � � � � و و ب� و ب و ةر � ة� و ةر �ر��ة ب� �مص ا ���ة ��س���� �م���� ��� � ب ب بب �ب � �ب ب �ة�ص � �� ���� ب�� �� ا ح��� �ب��ل�م�ا ���م� ب � ل�� �وك ���ة������� � ك ��� ب� ار ب� ا ��م�ا � ك ���م ���ل� ب ع �م � �� �ه ا �ر�� �ر ة م�� و ب �ة� ب ص ب �م ةب � با ا � ة ا � �� � � � ة ا �� اب بر��د ا ��و� ا ���� ����ل ب� ة� � � �� � حب���ل � او � ���ربج �� ب�� �ب�� ا � ���� ��طر ب��ة� �ب� � ����ل ك�ل �م د ع�ة� ا ���� �طر ب��ة� �و��ل� �ة ج ة � � ب ا �ب � � � � � ش������ل ب� ة � ب �ب ة ���د ا �م�ا �ش�مب����ل�ك ا ب��م�ا �وك ����ل�� � ك� م��ا � ب�لة���لة����ا �م بص ا �ل��ل�ص�و��ص � او ����رب� ب�� � ��لة��ك �لة��ل� ة � ا� ب � ا � � ��ر ��ة� د � ح�ة� ب�رك�� ب�. ح� � و ب ة � � ب �ب ا � ة � � � ش ��س���� �� ب د � ا ��� �ة����ا ��ا ���ده � � � � ح�ة �����ا �ب � ا �ش�ا � �� � � � �ل�� ���� �� �م ب ا ��ب� � � �سم �رة� د ص ص ة �ل � و ب ب ب ةةرح� �م ة� ة رو ة� ة �وم � ب ة �ة ��� � ش��� � � ا � ة ���د ��شص �ب�ا ب���د�ب�ا �م�ه ب��ا ب�� او ده ا ك�� �ب��ل�م�ا � ��ر� او ا � � �� ل� �ر�ل ب��ا ا ب���� �سم � حب� و و ل ب ع ��م��ص ��� او ����� ح�ة� ر ة ب ا � � ب � � ��ل �ب ش ب ا �ب �� با ابة ب � ح�� ة���ل�� ًل�� ا ب با ل � ا � ح �� � � م��� � � � �ةر�و�� ���� ��� �مص ا �ل��ل� �صو��ص �و���� � �ر� �و�����د �� �ل�د �ل�ك ا ب� ب �ل ة ة� ب ب �ل ة �وا �م�ه�� � ة � � � � ب ة ��ب��ا ة�ل ب��� �ب�ب� بر��ل ب��ا �ه ب��ا ك �ب����ا � ا ��بل �ب ار �ل ب��ا �ةل��ل�ك ا ���ع�م�ا�ةرا ���ة� ا � �� او �ل ب��ا �عب����ا ا ��ل�� ح� �وا ب��� �ة��د �و� ��ة� �ل��ل�ك �� ة ة �� �ب ب � ة ب ة� � ة ة � ب ة �� � � ل � � ب � ل��ا ��ا �ة ة ا ب ا ا ا ا ا ا ب � � ة ب � � � � ل�� �ب� � ا� ك ا �ل��م� ��ص �وة������م � ا � ل�� م�� �ص �وب�� ����ة� ب������ص �مص �ل�لك ب�� �ه ��ل�م� ا �ل � �ه�ة� �مص �ل�لك ا ل�� ب ج � � � ة� � �ب � ب حب���ل� . ط����ة ب� م��ا ب� �و ب���د�ب�ا ب�كة��� �ةب��ر ة������ل�وه ب�� حة�ب�ً�د د ا � �م�ا �ة��د �و� ا � ��ة�ب��ر ������ل�� ح��ا ا ��� � ك� �حج� �� ��ل ر ة � ب بب � � ب ب �ب �ة ة ب� ���د � ك� م��ا � �ة��د ب���ل ا �لة��� ��م�ا �ا ء ب��ة�ر ب� ار ة��� د ا ب���ل�� �ل��ل�ة�ب��ر � ار د �ب�ا � � او � ���د �م بص ا � ���� او ����� �ة��ر�ل ة ا � � �� � ب ب ب ���د ب� بر��ل �مب ��ر �و� ���و ب� �و�� �بص ���د ا لة� ��ة� ����ل ب� ار �ة� �م�ا ا � �م� ��� �و�� ���و�ل�� بة � ح ش��ص ا � ب� ��س� ا �م ����ر ا �و � ب م م ع ب � ش � ب � � ب ب� ���ا ��ة�� �م بص �ل�� ب�ر��� �ة�� بر�ل. �و��ص ا ��ب� ��ة�ر د �ل��ك �مص ا ���و�� ب ح�ة ��ب� ب ��ل ب���ة��ا ��ل ����� ا � ش ��ل�� � �� ���ل�ب��ا �ا �ع� �م�� ب�� ب���ة��ا �� �� ��ل�� ا �� ��ة �� ا ����� � �و� ح ب ��ب� ك�� �� ر � � و و ة � ة ر ر ة ة م ص ة ص ة ة م � ش � ش �ب �ب ب�لة��� ���ط� ��ب � ح�ة ا ب� بر��ل �ب�ا �ع ���ط�ا ه ا ��ب�ل � �وا ب��� �شل��ل ش� ا ب� ��وك� ����ل ب� �ب��ل�م�ا �ا ء ا �ل��ل� �� �� ���� �بر�م�� �ب��و�ة�ا ب�لة��� وة� ة� ة ة ب ب � ب � ا � ��ا ب ب � ب �ل� � ب � � ة ا � �� � ة ة ب ة ة ا � � �و�ر�ل ��� ا �ل �� �ل �وك�� � �ع� ��� د �ل�ك ا � ���ب��ر �� �م�� �و�م�ده �ة��د .حة��ً�د ا � �وا ب�� �� �ل �ل�ل ار ع�ة� ة � ��ة د � ��ب ا �� ��ة��� � ا � ش�� �م�ا �ش�م�بع ة� ا �ع ���م ب ا ��ا ه �ب�د ا ا �� ا �ع� ��ب د ا ب�� ا �� ��ة��� �بك ش����ا �ب بب �� �م�م �ل ب ر � � ر ة� ة� ة �ة� ة و� ة� ب ر و ة ص � ب � � � ��ة ب ب �ب ب ب� �م ����ة�ره ���ة���ل ب��ا ا �بل �م�� �ب ��ة��د � ب�ب������� كب� ا �ب����ا ب� ب��ا �ع ���ط�ا �ب�ا ا �ة�ا ���ا � �� �وا ب��� ���د ه ب ب� �مم� � ب���ل �رد �� ل�ص
24
24
٣٤،١
٣٥،١
٣٦،١
Chapter One
When the khawājah heard that the caravan would be spending the day in the village, he asked the residents of Kaftīn if there were any buildings nearby dating to the period of the ancient Christian kings. They pointed out a mountain, about an hour’s journey from the village, and told him there were some Christian buildings there, as well as a monastery and church: They were in ruins, but there was some Frankish writing on some of the stones. On hearing this, he called for the muleteer. “I wish to go see that mountain,” he said. “That area is full of bandits and Bedouins,” the muleteer replied. “I worry that you’ll be robbed.” “That’s none of your concern,” the Frank replied. “Bring me some mounts.” The muleteer hired some packhorses from the village, as his own animals were tired and he wanted to rest them so they could travel the next day. They brought us the horses, and we packed some food and drink to bring along, hired four or five guards to protect us from thieves, and set off to climb the mountain. After going a little way, we came upon the structures the villagers of Kaftīn had told us about and stopped to dismount. The khawājah began walking around the buildings, copying the inscriptions on some of the stones. When he finished with the inscriptions, we walked over to a tomb covered by a boulder.23 The khawājah circled the tomb, looking for a place where he might enter, but all he could find was a narrow gap that opened onto the interior. He asked for a volunteer from the guards to go down into the hole, but not a single one would dare. They told him that it might be the lair of some wild beast, perhaps a hyena or a panther, or some other ferocious beast. Who would possibly venture to go in? While we were talking, a goatherd passed by, and the guards asked him to go into the tomb. “What will you give me if I do?” he asked. The khawājah handed him a third of an abū kalb. Once the goatherd had the coin in his hand, he threw off his coat and clambered down immediately.24 The tomb was as deep as the height of a man with outstretched arms. The khawājah called down to the goatherd. “Walk around the tomb and hand me whatever you see inside.” The goatherd did as he was told, and found a human skull. He handed it to us. It was the size of a large watermelon. “This is the skull of a man,” the khawājah told us.
25
25
1.34
1.35
1.36
� �أّ � �ف ا � �ل���ص�ل ا �ل� �و�ل
ب�ب ب ب ة � � ب� ة ا � � ب ا ب ��ة ب ب� ا �ع ���ط�ا �ب�ا ب��ب� ���د ه ب�ب� �م ��م ب ا ��بل ���ح��ة ا ب�ر�� ا ����ر�مص � � � � � ا ا ل ل � ه � ل � � � � � � ك م �� �وا ب��� �ب�ا � د �ل��ك ل ر ص ة �� ة � � � � ا � �م ب �ة � �ة ش ا ة � �ب ب � �ة � ب ة ا � � � � � � ا � ���ب��ر �ه�و �ب��ر �� �م� �ل�لك ا �ل��ا ���ة� � او لب��ل�د .حة��ً�د ا ��م� �ل� ر�م �و�ل� ك��ص �م� ب �ده �ة� ب ب ���� ة� ا �� ��ة��� � ا �ع ����م ب� �ه� ب� ��م� ا ��ل�� بد �ة� �و ب���ده � او �ع ���ط�ا �ب�ا �ه�و �ب��و ب���د�ب�ا �ب�� بص ا ��ل�� بد �ة� �كة ش����� ا �� ة ب ر و ة ة� و ة ع ا ب � ة � � �ب ��بل ة ب � �� ب � ب �ب ب��ا ة�� كب� ���د �ة� �و�م� �مب��� �وا ب�� �ة� ا ����ة�ر � ��ا �� � ار ه �س� �س� ��ط �كة��ا �م��ل ا �ل� ةص �ل�� ل����ا �ب�� �و�ل� �عر�� ب م م ً � ��ا ب �ه� بد �ع� ا � �ب� ب �م���د �ب�� ا ب ���� ا �و ب��ة�ر �م���د ب� ب��ا �ب ��ة��ا ه �م���� .ا ب��ة�را ة��ا ��ل ��ل��ل ار �ع�� ب� � ل ح ك � �� � ص ة و ب م ح� ���ط�ا ب ا �� ��ة��� �ب ا ء ���ط�ا �ة�� � د ا ب���ل��ا ��� ا � �ش�س��� ��� � ب ا ��ل���م�ا ب � �م�ا �ع �ب� �م���د ���ب و � ربج ب ب ة رو� � و ر �ة � ب ر ر ب ش ب � �ب ا � �� � ب ب��ا ب���ده ا �ة� ب� ًا ش ا � � ا � ��� �ب � � ب � ة � ��� �و���� �ل� �و�م� �� د �ا ء �ة� �ربج مص ا � ���ب� ر �و�اج �ة� �� �ل ���ب��ة��ل� �وحص � � � ب� ��ه ب��ا ا �ة� ا ��ب� ��س���� ب�����ل�� � . ة م ةا �ب ا ب ب ا ب ��ب ة ب �� � � ش ب ب ب ا � � ب � ب ا ا ب �ة � �و� �ة� �ة ��و�م ���� � �ر� �مص ��ه���ةص ا �ة� بح���را �ل��م� ��و�� 1و�مص �ه�� ك �ل� ��ل�� ���� �ةرة�ص ح�ة� � ب�� ب �ب ب �و����ل ب��ا ا ���� �م�دة�ل ب���ة ���ط ا �ل��ل�� ��ا ��ل����ل�� � ب��ب� بر��ل ا ��بل �وا ب��� ا�ام�د ��و� ��ة� ب��ة�� ة� �� �� �وا ب��� �ب�ل� � ة رب ص ب � م ب ا ب ب � ة ب ب ا ب ا ��ب � ب �ب ب ب ب ب ب � ة ��ل�� �ل��� ا �ع�� ���� �ه��ا � �م�ا ا ا ع � � � ل � ا � ��� �ر����ا �و�ة� � او �� �رل� �ة� �� � �مة�� � ة� ب � م � ب ��� �ة� ب��ة��� ��هب�� � ا ب ة �ب ب � ش��م� � �م�بهة��ا � ا ��ل��� ة د ا ��مً�ا �� د � �ع ب��د ا � ب���ا ��ا �ش��� ا ��بل ب ب ب ��ا � ��ا ���د ة� ا�ام�هة��اج� �م ب��� �ود ���ل ة� ة و ج بة � � و� ب ة� شة و و� ع ��ا ب � �كب ب ا� ا � ب ا � ب � � ب ا ب� ة ا ة �ب ب� ب � � ا ا ا ب ب � � �ل � � � � � � � ا ا � � � � � � ل �واة ب��� �وك�� � ا �ل�ود ب� �ة� بة �ر�� �م� � ب�ه�� مص ا ل�دةر � و���� ة� � ر �� �ه�� ك. �� ة ة �ب ب ب �ب � �س�ة��م ة� بد ��ل��ك ا ��لب ���ا � � �وش�ا ��ب� �ة ��و� �� ب��ا � ة � �وا ب��� ��و�م�ا � ا �ل��د �ة� ك�� ة� ح ة� �����ل�م ة� ����� �� � ة م ة ة ب � � �ب � � ة � �ة ة ب بّ ب� حب�ة���ل�� �م��ه� � ك م�� �صو ب� � ��و���ا �ة� ��ة� �م بص �م����ل��م� �� �وا ب��� ��� ب ار � ��ة� ا �و�ل ��ره ا �ل�د ة� ب حة�� ا �ة� ة ة ة ة � � ب ب ���ط ا �ل��ل�� � �وا ب��� ب� ��و��ل ���وك� ���ا �و����ا �لة��� ح�ةة� ا ة�ر�ع ب� �كب����د �م�ا �����ل�م ة� ���لة��� ا �و�د �ل��ل�� �� ب� ��ة�� ة� �� رب ص � � ب ب � ب ة ب ب � ب ة � � ة ب ط ط ش ا ا ا ا ا � � � � ب � �� ��� �� ����� �م �����ل��ط� � � ����� �ل� ب��� ا �ل��س�� ��� ������ ���ه� � ���� �ه� � � �� �������� �ر�� ح�م �ة� م ة ل و ة ل ة ح�م ب ر ل ص ر ج ج ة بً ب ة � ة � ب � � ا د �ة � � � � � ب� �ب ��س � ��� ّ ا �ة�� ���ا ����ل �ب��� ش � � �ب�ا ��ة� ا ��وج� ا ��ة� �ب�ا �ة���ص �م���� ���� ب�لة����و� �م�� �ك �وج �ل� ح� و ة ة ب ���د ا � ب���ل �ب�ا ��ص �م�ل�� �. ج �� � ة ا ب ب � � � ب �� � ة � ب � ب � ب ة � � ب � ا ا ا � � � �� � � � � � ا ا ا ا ل�رم�ل�� ة� �و���د لب�� د �ه حة��ً�د �ط�ل�ع� مص ع��ده �و س� ��ة��� ا ة� ع��د لب�� د �ه لة�� ص ا � � ة ب ة � ب ا� ا �ب ب �ة �ب � ����ة� �ب�ا ��م�ا � ��� ة� ��ة� د�ةر �م�ا � ة� ش��م� �ك�����ل�م ة� ���لة��� �و����ة�� ة� �ل�� ��� ���ا � ��ة� �م���� م��ر��� �م� ك ك ة م ع 1ال�أ�ص� :ا � ش ل��� ف�ع�ل. ل
26
26
٣٧،١
٣٨،١
٣٩،١
Chapter One
The goatherd handed us another skull, smaller than the first, and the khawājah said it was a woman’s. He supposed that the tomb belonged to the ruler of these lands. He threw a piece of sturdy cloth down to the goatherd. “Collect everything you find on the floor of the tomb and hand it to me.” The goatherd gathered what he found and handed it all over. Among the objects was a large, plain ring. The khawājah studied it and saw that it was rusty. There wasn’t an inscription that he could see, nor could he tell whether it was made of gold, silver, or some other metal. He kept it. “Feel around along the walls of the tomb,” he called out to the goatherd, who did as he was instructed, and found a niche. Inside the niche was a lamp, similar to those used by the butter merchants. He didn’t know what sort of metal it was made of, but he took it anyway. There was nothing left to find, so the goatherd climbed out and went on his way, and we all returned safely to the village.25 The next day, we left Kaftīn for Jisr al-Shughūr, and continued from there till we arrived safely in Tripoli. The khawājah lodged at the home of khawājah Blanc, the Frenchman. I stayed at the Khān al-Ghummayḍā, in the quarters of the Aleppan monks of Saint Elishaʿ. The keeper of the hostel always held a key to their quarters, so I took it from him and brought my things in. He knew me from the time my friends and I had returned from the monastery, for we’d lodged there. I spent the rest of the day at the hostel. The next day I went to see khawājah Roman, whom I’d met the first time I passed through Tripoli on my way to the monastery, when I’d brought him a letter of recommendation from my master, khawājah Rémuzat. After greeting him, I told him all about Paul Lucas. “Is it true that he was dispatched on his voyage by the sultan of France?” I asked. “Yes,” he replied. “It’s true.” I also asked his advice. “Would you counsel me to go to Paris with him?” “This is your chance—take it!” he said. “Go with him and don’t worry; he’s a good man.” I left him and went to see Father Ilyās the Carmelite. He knew me from the time I’d spent at the Monastery of Saint Elishaʿ. After greeting him, I told him all about my time with Paul Lucas. The priest listened to my tale from start to finish, then spoke.
27
27
1.37
1.38
1.39
� �أّ � �ف ا � �ل���ص�ل ا �ل� �و�ل
� �ب ب ���ا ب���ل�م�ا ���م� � ا �� � ة ب ا � ة ب ��و� ا �عب��� �ب�� ب� ��و��ل � ��وك� �م� ا�ام�د �� ع ا �لب�� د ��ة� �م��ة� ����ل ك��ل� �م ����ة� ا � ���� �ل� �عص ����ل ة ع ��� ا �ب�ا ا ب���د ة� ب��� ه ��ا �ب�� ����اة� �م ب ��س� ا � �����ل���ط�ا ب� �ب �ب����ا � ا ب� د ة� ة� � � �م���� �م�ا ر و � و ر ب �ب ل ب ر ج ج ص وج ة � ب � ب با ���لة���ك �ب�ا ��ص ��و� �ل� ب� � ����� �كة���ك. ح� � او �� ب� ��و� ة ج ط ة �ب ا � ح ة� ا ���� �ع ب��ده � او �ع �����ة��� �ة ا � �ة�ا ب�� ة� ��ا ب� ا ��و� � � � � ا � � ا � � ل حة�ب�ً�د ��م�م � � � � � � ة ب روج و� ب ة ر ة ج � ب� �ة ة � �� � � ب �� ب� ا � ب ة ب ب �واةب� ا �ل�د �ة� �ل�ب���س��� ؟ �ه��ل�� �ل� ��ة��� ����ل � ار � �ك����ا � ��ة� ����ل �م����ك ��� ���� �� �م���� ��ل�م� ا �ع ��ة م ةر ل ج �ب ��� � ب �ب � �واةب� � ك� �واةب� ��ب� ���ل ب� �ة��و�� � ك� م���ل�ب��ا ة� ب���ة��� ا بل ك� � م���ل���ا ة� ��ا � �ع ب��د ك �� ل��بص �ة� ��ة�ر ����ل �� ة ة � ج ج � ة ة � ة ب ب � � � � � � ب � ب � ك �ةر����� � � ����د ا �ل�� ا � �و����ل ب��ا ا ��� �ب�ا ���� �ب�ا �ل����ل�� �م�� ا ك�� ب� ا ��ة� ا ��و ل��م �ل�ك ا ��ة� �م�دة�ل��� � ة ة ةص � ب �� � ب ب ب �� بر��د ا د ب���ل�ك �م��ه ا �م�ا � � �� حب� ��ره �����ل��ط�ا � �ر�����ا �و�ل� ب���ل ����ل ���ب�� ب� ةل���و� �ل�ب���ص ش�لة��ا ب� ة ة� م ب �� � ب ��ة� �ب�ل��د �� لة���و� �� او �م�ل�� �. ج م ��ة ة � ب �ة �ب ��ل � ا ���ل ة � � ��ة�� ة �� ة � ب �ب�ا �مة�ش���ل ة� ا ��ره �و �ة� ا ��ا �ل ك��ب��� ا �ة� ا ��ة� � ك ����ة� �ود ��ر� �ل�� �ب�ا � م�� �صو ب� �و �م�� ب � � � ب ة ة �� �ب�ا ��ب�ه ة�ر����� �� � ���ل �م� اة� بص �م بص � ��و ب��� ا ��ة� ��ط ار �ل��ل��ص �و�م بص �ه ب��ا ك � ��و���� �ب�ا � ة�ر�����ل�و�ه� �واة ب ة� ة ب � م ع � ة� ة بً ب ب � � � ب � ب � ة ة ة ة ا � ب � � � ل � �وا ب��� �وا ب� ����د ا ح� �ة��د � او � حك ����د ا �و�ر�����ل ا �ة�� ��� � �و��د ��ر �ل�د �ل�ك ا �� ��د �مص �� ��ة�� � ة ا ��ة� � ة � � � ب ح��� ���� ���م ب� � ا ��ل���� �� � � �ب ا �ل ب � ب ةب ���ا ب� بد ��ل��ك ا �ل �ص � ���ط�ا ���� ا �� ح ة� ك� ا بل ك� ��ا � ا ���ر ة� �م ب��� �ر ب�ة ة ة ة� و ل م و �ة� ب ع ���� �ع�ة� ة وم � � ب ا � ة ا� ة � ة ا��ة ب � � �ب م�� �وا ب��� �ب�ا �ة� ا �����ل� ا� ك ا �ة� ��ل ب� �� �����ل� ا� ك � �صو ب� �م���� � او � ك م�� �صو ب� ا �ة� ���ل ب� ح��ة� ة� �ل���ل� �ك�� ا �� ةر� ب���. �م ة
28
28
٤٠،١
٤١،١
Chapter One
“Well, since you ask,” the priest said, “I can tell you that I’ve learned that this man is indeed one of the voyagers dispatched by the sultan of France. Don’t be afraid to go with him, if that’s what you want to do. I’ll vouch for you.” So I made up my mind to go, and went to see the khawājah to give him my
1.40
word that I’d accompany him. “Do you have any clothes besides those you are wearing?” he asked after I’d presented him with my decision. “No, but I do have some other clothes in Aleppo,” I said. “Some very fine clothes indeed.” “In that case, write to your brother and have him send your clothes to Sidon,” he said. “If we get to Paris safely, I should like to take you with me before His Majesty, the sultan of France. You’ll need to wear your native dress, and it should be elegant.” I obeyed his instructions and immediately wrote a letter to my brother, letting him know my story. “Send my clothes right away with anyone heading to Tripoli,” I wrote. “And from Tripoli, have them send the clothes on to Sidon, in the care of one of its merchants. Be sure to write to the merchant and ask him to provide me with some money, should I need it. Farewell.” As luck would have it, a messenger was departing for Aleppo that very day! I gave him the letter and told the khawājah that I’d sent it off to Aleppo, as he had instructed.
29
29
1.41
�ش ا ب ا �� ب � � � � � � � � ا � ل� ح � ل ة� �ب ب �� � �ة ب� � � ب � ط � � � � � � �وا ب�� ب� ��ول� � � ا � م � ح�� � ة �حج� و ب �ة� ص طرب�ل�ل��ص ب � م ا ��ل���ح�اة� ��ب� �ش�س�ه �ش��ح��ا ���ط ��� 1707حة��� ح��� �ة � ب ج ة
� ���ا ���وك�
بة � ب � ة � ب � ة ا ��بل ب ب ط� ���ا � � �� � ب� ب� ب ا ب ب� ح��� � ب���ل ����ة�� ب� مص ب�ة��� ��ا �� ح�� �مص �م�دة�ل��� ��ط ب�رل��ل��ص� � ب كب���ح�د ك� م ة وم ر ب ���ا ب� ا ب� � ا ��� ��ب ���� ة� �ةكب�� � ب ب ا ا ب �� ا ��ل��ر � ب ح�ةم� �م� ��بل � ح��ا �و���د ا ك� ��م� ��را � ��� �ر���� � �وة�� �و��� � ب��ة�� � ��و ة ع ا �و ب ة� ب ة ع � با � � � � ب� ا ط� حب��� ك� ��اة�لة���ل � م��ا ب� ة����م�ا ب��و�ة� �مة� ك� �����ر� او ب� ا ��� � ك� حة� ش� �و� � ب ح��� ��ل�م� �و���ل�� ا �ة� ب� ل ة �ب � ا ب��� ا �� ����ة��� � ��� ب ا ��بل �� � ب � �� � � � �� ا � ح�ة� ة�لة�ب���د ا �ه�و � او �ة�ا ه. ا ل�� او �ل�ة ر ا�م�د �و� .حة��ً�د ك�ل�� �و � ب ة ب� ب ا �ع ب ا �� ب� �ة � ا ��بل ا � �� � ب � �م� ب ا ب� ب �� ب ا �ب ا � ة ا � ب �ة � �� ب ا ب ح���ل ب��ا � ب��م�ه ب��ا � �وحص ��ة� ����ة ر �و�� د م ا ل�د � ه�� رل�� �� ���� ح� �ر�و� �و�ب����� ة و ة �ة ب ة � � ��� ا ��ل�� ��ل���ب�� �ع ب �م ب��ا ا �� ب ��ً�ا � ح ب��ا �و��لب�� ش��سب��ا � او � ا ب� ار ب� ح�ة� ب�لة�ب���د ا �س���م ب��ا ������ ب��ا ا ��ب���د ا �م بص �ع ب��د ا �ل� � ر ة و ة ر ة ب ح�ب��د ا ب� ب� ب ا ب � ��ل��ب�ل ب��ا �م ش����� ب��ا ��� � � � � ��ب��ا ا ب��ل �ع ب��ده ب���ل�م�ا �اة�ل ب��ا �م�ا ب��ا �ب�ا ب��د ا �و� �� ح بص �سب� طو�ل ا �ل�لة���ل �ة ً ر و ح�� �مص ة � �ع ب �ب ا ��� � � � � �ة � ب � ب � �ب��� � � � ب ا ب�لة�ب� ا �ب ا ا �ل ب ا ا � � ا � ��ل ب��ا �ا�م�� �م ب � ��د � 1م�ك ب ر ة� م���ة� و�ب� ر وب ة��د و ب �ل��س�� ��د �م� �ة �� �ل� ��� � �و ص � � � �ب ب بة ة ة �� ة ���� ح��� �ة��ل ب��ا �ب��ه� ب���ة��ا ��� او ك��ة ��� ا ل �� � � ب�لة�����ر� او �كب���ل ا ���و�ك ة� ا �ل�� او د �م �و���ا �� او ة�����ا ��� �وب�ا ����ل ا ب� �� �م�� ة ة م م ب ب م ب ح ب �م����ا �ب � ب � ���ط� ��ل ا ��ل��ل�� �م�ا �ش�س��� ب ب���ة���ل ب��ا ������ � ةص �م�ا ���لة�ب��ا �ص�و� �وك� ���ا ب� د ��ل��ك ��� ا �و��ل ب��م���� � و ة و ة ل ص ر ص ة م ة م � �� ���� � ا ���� �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل��ل��د �مب��� ب�ل�� �ص � ا �� ا ��ل��د �� � �مب ب � ��� ب�لة�� �صو� ا ��� ا �لة��ا ��م���� ا ك ل� � م ة وم ة� ب �مص � �صو�م ب ة ر و ل م ة رو � م � �ب ة � ة �و�م�ا ا � ���د �مب���� ب�لة��ة��د � ة�لة ب� ��ط�ا ��ر �ب�ا � ��هة�صو� �كب���ل ا ���و�ك ة�. م ب ا �ب ب� �ة ب ا � ب ًا � � ب �� � ا ش ب � �ة �ة ة � � �وا بح��� ا ة�� �و���د ا ��� � �ة� � ��� �ل� � ا �ل���و�ل�ة�ر ��� � ة���م���ل�� ح�ة� ة�����ة�ر �وك� ا �ل�د ��ر ا � ب ب ا ب ب ا � ا � ب بة ب �ب � ش ب ب ���ل�� � ح�ة� ة�لة�ب���د ا �� ة��ب���د �ة�� ���ل�م�ا �ة����و�ة� ���لة��� �ب�ا ��ب���د ا ب��� ���ل�� � او ب�� ���ه��د �� � ار ء �� ع�م� �ل��ةص �م�س���د ا ب ص ة م
ة����م�ا � ح��� �م ب ب��ة�� ة�
أ 1ال��ص�ل� :ع ف���د ا.
30
30
١،٢
٢،٢
٣،٢
Chapter Two
My Departure from Tripoli in the Company of the Traveler Paul Lucas, in the Month of February 1707 of the Christian Era26
After a few days, we left Tripoli in the company of a kinsman of the al-Khāzin
2.1
family known as the chevalier Ḥannā.27 He had met Paul Lucas in the home of the French consul, and they’d taken a liking to one another. In the mountains of Kisrawān we came to a place named Zūq Mīkāyīl, where the chevalier lived. He invited the khawājah for lunch. Meanwhile, I went off to the town square along with the servant who was
2.2
accompanying us. We tied up our horses, piled up our bags, and sat waiting for some lunch to be brought to us from the chevalier’s house, for he’d invited us as well. We’d walked all night and were famished! But no lunch arrived, so we took out our own food—fried fish, bread, and wine—and settled in to eat. All of a sudden, a crowd of people formed around us! “Are you Christians?” they demanded. “Yes.” “Then what do you think you’re doing, breaking the fast before it’s time?” they asked. “We’re travelers, and we’ve been walking all night,” we said. “We’re not required to fast.” It was the first week of Lent. In those parts, some people would fast until noon and others until nine o’clock, and no one was allowed to break their fast publicly before the appointed time. The same thing happened with our khawājah. The chevalier had tried to distract him until noon when he could serve lunch, but after a while, the
31
31
2.3
�ش ا ب �ب ا � �������ل ا �ل�� �ة�
ب ب� � ةة ا � ب ب ب �� � ا ة ��� ��ل�� � ب ا �م�ه ب��ا �و�ه� ��م ح� �صو� �مص ا �ل���و�ل�ة�ر �و ��ة� د �ل��ك ا � ��و�ك� ا ب�� ا �ل�و ةر ح�� �و��� � ب��ة������د � �م��� ��ة� و ب � � ة ة ب ب �� �م ب��� �و�ا � �ة� � �ة � ا �� ب� � � ب � � � � � � �لة� � � �ل � ا � �� � � � � ب ����� ���وة��� ���د ا ��لة�� � او �� ةر�وج م�� �ةو���د ة� �ة� ا � ل ب���ة ر �ع�و� .حة��ً�د ا ة� ج � ب ا �� ب ب ����ل ب��ا و��� ة� �و� ب�ع ��ب��� ب ب��� بر� �س�ب� �وب�ك��� � ط�� � ح�ة� ب�لة�ب���د �ة� ب��ا ك� �صة� �ة���� ة � ح بص �ع�����ل � �م���� � او ������ل �ل�� � ب � ة ب ة ةص ة ة ��ه ب ا ��ه �ب ا � ة �ة ب � � ب � ة � � �مب��� �� ��ة��مة��� ب �س���م ب��ا د �ل��ك ا �لة �صو� ��ة� ا � بر�و�� ا �ة� �ب�ا ���ر. ةص �و� ب� �� � م �م م � � ب ب � ب ب ب � � � � ب ب ب � �ا ا ب ا � � ا �ل �ب � ب ا � � ��س���� م��ا � ا ��� � ك� � � ب � � ��س���� ا ��ة� �ة م�� � �و�مص �ة ��ود ع�� ا ل���و�ل�ةر �و���� � �ر� �ة� د �ل�ك بحب���ل مص ك ة بً � ش ا ش �ب ة � � ��ل � � � ة � � او ��بل � �وا ب��� �ة��ب���ة ش�� ���� ح���� ة��� �� �ل�لك ا ب� حب��ا �ل ا �����ا �لة��� .ا ��ة�را �و����ل ب��ا ا �ة� �م�دة�ل ب��� �ب�ة�ر�و ة� � ص ة ص ة� ب� ب �� ة � ب ب ب � حة ب�ا ا � ب���� � بم�� � �ش���� ا �ع�ب � ا ا ا ب � � � � � � � � � �وا ب �� و� �وب� �رل ب��ا ��ة� د�ةر �ب�ا د ��ة� كب �صو ب �ة� � ���� رح ب� كة��� � او �ع�ط� ا �ة� � رو �ة� ب ب� � ل�ة ب �� ح ة� �و�ر�ش���� �و���را ����ة� �و�م�ا ة� ش��سب��� د �ل��ك. ب �� � �ب ب � � � ���د �م ب ب��م�ا � ة م� �� ا �� � ع�ب��ا ���ل�ب� ة����م�ا �ة �� �� �مب� اب� ب ا ك و �ح��ل ص ة� �و �ة� د �ل�ك ا �لة �صو�م ا ب�� �ل�ل�د�ةر � او � ص ب ّ ة �ش ب ��ا ب �ب ا� ح�ب�� ��ب� ���ل ب� �ب��ل�م�ا �ا ��ب� ا �����ةر� � ح ب� ��ة� ���و�ة� ك����ة�ر �و����ا � ��ة� �ع بص ���ب�� ب� ة �و���د ا ك� � ��� ة ة ً ب ب ب��م �ة�ة���ل�� ��ب� �بم ح�� � ار �و� ��ة� �وك� �� ��ة ��ب� ا �� ا � ش��� ح�� ا ��ة� �ب�ة�ر�و ة� ب��ا � ك � ة� �م� ����ل ����اة� .ا ب��ة�را ح� ك ب ة ة ة ة ة ة ج ع � ب �ب بة ��س�ة ب ة ا ب ة � ح�ة ا �ة ب��� ب� �ةك��� �م�ا �ب���ح�ا �ب ب���ة��� ة �ر� �ة��و� �� ل � ا �م�ة����� �ب� � �ة��د �و��ة� �ة� �م�دة�ل��� �ب�ة�ر�و� ة� رج ب ل ر ة� م م ة � � م�� � � ب ة ب ش اش � � �م��ا ب� � .ب م��ا ب� ب� ك� ���ل ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� � ك� ا �� ش��� م� ح�ة� ا �ر ب���ك ���� ك� ه � حة��ً�د ا �� ا ��ة�ر ���ح� ��ص � ة� ة ة ة � �� ب ش ا ش � � ب �ة �ب�مب�� ب � ب �ة ب� � � ش ا ش �ة ب�ا ب �ة �� ب ش ا � ا �ل��ب�لة�ب�� � او ��� ���� ��ص ا �ل�� �� س��� عص �هة��ةر ا �ل���� ��ص �و �� ا ل ك� �� � �ب� ر���د ��� ���ح� ل� ص ة ة� ة ً ب ب� ب �ب � � ا �ب �ة �ب � ة � ب ا ��لب �� ار ��� ا ة� ش�� �م�ا ��لب���� .ا ب��ة�را �م�ا ا � �� ا ح� ح�ة� � ��عة� ة� م�ص ص ��ر �ة� ����ل ب�ل�ل�د �م� �ة� كة��د ���ة� �� ة ص � ش �ب ة �ش��ح�ا ����ة� ا �ل�� ���. � ح ة �م��� �ب��د � �ب ا�ا�م�د �ل ب��� � � � ب ��ل ب�ا د ا � � ب � � ب� � م��ا ب� ك� ���ا �ب�� ح�ة� �و����ل ب��ا ا ���� � ك� ة و ر ب � � و� �ة� ة و�ل� � � ةرة ص ة � � � ���ا ��س� �ع� ل�� �ب ��ب���ة�ر �ب�ا � ��ة��د �و��ل�� �لة �ص او ب� �و ب��ا ��ل�� �ه ب��ا ك �ش�ل�� ش� ا ���� ا ب��� � او ة� ك� ط� �� ار ��� � � � م � � ص ب ص ة� � ة م ع ة � ب ة �ا �ب ب �ب ا ب� � ��ل�� �ب�� ب ��� �م ش����ا ��ل ��� �و���� ا ل���� � �ص�و� ل � ةص �بر �و��س��� �ش���ا �ش���ا ة� �ة�ا ���ص �ب�ا ��ط ار �� ��� ��ر�ة� � ب م م ج ة �� ب ب ش ا�� ع��� ب��م�����ة � ش � �� ه � ا �م�ا �س�� � ش ع��� �ش�س� ���� �ل ب��د ا ة� �ة �� ب � �مب��� ا ب��� ح ب��ا ب� �ب�م � د � � و و � � ر و ب ���� �ك���ةص ر ر ر ر ر ر ب ب م م ��ع ة ا �� ا ��� ا ء ب���ة ��بد ا ��ل�� �ب� ب ���� ب �س� �ب� ��م�ة� ���ط�� ب���ل�م�ا ا �لة ��� �ةل��ل�م��ل�م ة� �و� ب� �و�ش���ا � ���� ��ك� � � � � � � � � � ةص ��� ك � � و � � و و � ة ة ة ة� م ب ب ب ة ب � ب بد ��ل��ك ا ��ل ش����ا � ا �ع ب�� ��� � �� �� �مب� ا ��ل ���ل�ب�� �م�ا �ب�ا �ل��ك �ة�ا ا ��ة� � بر��� � ا ����ر�� ����ل ا ��� � او ة� �م بص �ه� ب ة� ب ة و ة م
32
32
٤،٢
٥،٢
٦،٢
Chapter Two
khawājah abandoned him and joined us. Seeing us in the midst of lunch, he sat down to eat, annoyed with his host. Eventually the chevalier appeared, apologizing for delaying our lunch. He begged the khawājah to return to have lunch right away, with no further delay. The khawājah was embarrassed, so he went with the chevalier, who sent us on a large straw tray a plate of honey and oil and two loaves of bread for our lunch. We had a few bites and sent them back. We spent the rest of the day in al-Zūq. The next morning, we bid farewell to the chevalier and journeyed through
2.4
the mountains, from village to village, as the khawājah foraged for plants around those lofty peaks. Eventually we arrived in Beirut, and lodged at the monastery of a Capuchin friar. He welcomed us and gave our khawājah a room with a bed, chairs, and other furnishings. That same day, a fellow named Yūsuf ibn al-Mukaḥḥal, who was from our
2.5
community in Aleppo, turned up at the monastery. He was a friend of mine from back home and greeted me warmly when he saw me, asking why I’d come to Beirut. I told Yūsuf the story of how I’d gotten caught up with the French traveler and asked if he would show me around, so that I might see the sights before we set off. “Of course,” he said. “Come along, and I’ll take you on a tour of the whole city.” I started to swap my white turban for a blue one, but he stopped me. “If you wanted to, you could even wrap a green turban around your head,” he said. “In this town, there’s no restriction on what Christians can wear.”28 But even with his reassurance, I couldn’t bring myself to wear any turban but my blue one. We set off to tour the city. After a little while, we arrived at a small palace containing an īwān.29 Seated there were three or four officers dressed in the Ottoman style. On their heads were turbans of crimped silk, the edges brocaded with gold thread. They wore long cloaks of angora wool over their shoulders, and sported jeweled daggers. Ten or fifteen young men stood before them, some wearing crimson turbans and others green ones. They too were armed with silver daggers and damascened swords. I stopped short and took a step backward when I saw them, but Yūsuf, the young man from Aleppo, said to me, “Why are you afraid, brother? Don’t you know who these officers are?”
33
33
2.6
�ش ا ب �ب ا � �������ل ا �ل�� �ة�
� � ة � ة � � � �� ب � �� ب �ا � � �� ل�� ح��ا � ا �لب���ل��د ة���� �ب��ه� ا �ب���� � ك� �ب �ب ب� ���� ب ا �ب���� � ك� � ��ل��ل�� �ل� ل��ا ا �ع��ة� �ب�ل�د ك����ر� او � ح�� �م ا �لب��ل�د ك��� � م ة� م م ص ص� م ب ب ة ��بل ا ب ب � ��� ك ا ��ل�� بد �� �� ب ب ���ط�ا �� ��� ب ب� ب ب م��ا ب� �ه� ا � �� �و����ل � ك� و ة ص ب ة ����� �و��ص ��� او ���� �مص ب��ة��� ا �� �� � او ��دة�ص ل�ر � ب ا ة �ة ب ب � ب � �م��ر�� ا ��ل��ل��د ���ل��� �و�م ب �ه ب��ا ك ا ب���د ��ب �ب ب� ح ب�� ���� ا �ل��� ك� �س���ل�� �و���� �م��� �ه ا �ل���� ةص ا �ل��د �ة� ة ة ب ة� م ص ة� ة� ر ة ة� ة � � ح�� �و�م بص �ه ب��ا ك � ب� � �كة � � ا � ��ه ب��ا ا �ة� ا �ل��د�ةر. ��ل� �م� � ة� ب�ر ب ص ة �ة ة ب � � ب ب � ا ��� �� ة �ة � � �وة�ا ��ب� �ة �� � �م�ا ����ا �ب �ب�ا �ب ا د ا ��بل �س��ة�� ك���ا �م �ة ��و�م ��ة� �ب�ة�ر�و� ح�ة� ة�ل ���رجب ��و ب � �ل� ��ة� ة ر ر ة وم م �ب � ب � ة ح�ة ��ب � �� � ا ��ل��� ��ل ب���ل�م�ا ���ط��ل�ع ة� ا �ب�ا � ا ��ا ه �م ب ا ��ل��د�ةر ب���ة��� �م ب ك��� ة� ا � ك ح��ة�� �ل�� ����ة� �حج� ب� ة� ة� ة وم و �ة� ص وة ص ة� ب � با ب ب � ب � � ��ا ب � � ش ا ا �ل��� �و���ا ���د ا � ا � ���د ����ا �ل��ك �عب��� ا ���و�ل �ب�ا ��ة� � ك ح��ة�� �و�ه�و ك�� � �ل�ب���ص �لة�� ب� �ب�ل�د �� �و ��ة� ة م ب � ب � � � م��ا ب� ا ���� � ك� �ا ����� ة���لب �صة� �� ��ط��ل�ه ب��ا �ب��د �و� ��� ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� �م بص � ك� م��ا ب� �و�ه�و �ة��ب���ة ش��ص ���� ب���ل�و��ص ة��د � ة ة ة� م ا �عب�� �م���ا �م��ل��ة �م��ل� ك ا ��ل�� �ة�د �م�� ب �ب�ا �ش����ة �ل ب��ا ��ب بد ��ل��ك ا ��ل �ص � �م�ة��د ا ا ������ ب ب��م����� ب ةص � او � ���د رة ة� و ة� � ب� ةص ةص ة وم �� ب ا � � � �و� ب�ه�� �ل�ل�د�ةر. ً � ح��ا ا �� �� �س �ة� ا ��ل ا ب ب ا ب ة ش �ا � �ة�ا �ب � �� � ا �� ب� ا ب ب � ب ا � ب ب ��س�� ��� ����� � �ة�������ص ����ة� ب�� � و ة� ة وم ة ��� � �رل�� �ل�ل�م�دة�ل��� �و�� ة� و ة ب ً � ب� ة ب ب ���ا � � او � � � ب ���د �و�م بص ا � �����ل�و��ص �و ب���د�ب�ا ا �� ب���ا ك� �وا �� �س�ص�و�ا ة� ���و ب���د�ب�ا ك� ���ا � � او � � � ��د �وحص ة� م م و م ب ب � ة ����� ب �ل��ل��د�ةر �����ا � ب ���د �م���ل��� �م�����ا � ��� ب���ة���� �ع ب��د �ة� ب���ل�و��ص �ب���ة ش�����ر�و�ه� ب���ة���لة��� ح��ا � او � �ا ب� ةص ة ة� م م � � � م��ا �ب�� �و ب��ا ب� ��ل ب��ا ا ������� ب �ب��ل�� ك�� ���ا �ة���� ��ل�ب�را ��ه �ب�د ب���ل ا ��� � ك� ���ل � او � ���د �ب ��ة��د �شل��ل ش� � � ل��بص ����مة���ك ة ب ةص ص م م ة �ش � ا ب ا �ب � ا � �� � ب ب � � ب ب � ا ا ب � ل ��� ���د ا ���و ب� ���د �ة��ةص �و�م� �مب���ةص ����� ل��� �ب�� �مص ���ره ا ��� �وا ب��� �و ه� �س� ��� ا �م� �م�� �ل�م� �ا ه� ا �� � م م م م � ب� ا ب � با � ب ب ا ا � ب ب � �ه ة � ا ب ا �� ب� ب ش �ة ة ا � � � ل � ا ا ا ا م � � ع � � د � � � � � ح � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � م � ل�� � ل � �� � � �ج � � � �� �ب� عص و ب � و�ج م و �ة� ب � رب �ة� رة � �م با ب ً ���ا. ا �� ا �ة�� ب ب ب� � ة ة � ة �� ���ةح�ا �لة��� �م�ا ���د ا �ه� �و�عة��ا �ب��ة ك� ���ة����� د �ل��ك ا �ر ب���ل �م�ا �ب�ا �ل��ك �م�ا �ب��� ش�����ر�ة���� ���لة���ل�� �ل� ب���ل � ب � م م م ة � ب ة � ة � ��ل� ا � � �� �ا � � ا �ة � � ا ����ب ب���� ا �ش�� �ب ة ب ا � �ب � � ل�� � � � � ل ا � ه ه � � � � � � � � � � � ح ل د ك �� د و ب ة ��و �ة� ��� د ��� � � ب ك� م� ب� رة��د .ة��ً�د ل� ح�ة��م م� ب�ةرة��د �م �ص م م ة �ا � ����ة�س� � ة ���د ��م � � ب��د �ب��ع ة �� � �ب����ب � ب � ��� � �ر�م�ا ��ل��ك ا �ب�ا ب� ش�����ةر����� بل ك� � ل� ��ر� �� ��� ��ة� ���� ب����ر��ص ك��ل � او � ب � � ب � ب ة ة م م ة م ة ب ة ب ش �ب ا �� �� ح ة� ��ب ���ط ���ة �ب����ا د ���ا � � ح ب�� � او �� او �ب� ب�� ���� ب�� بر ة� �ع ب��� �و�� � �عر��ص �م� �ا د ة�� �حج� ب��ا �� � ة� � ر ة ة ة ة� ة م م ة ة ة �����ةل�م�ا ��ب �س�ص� ب�ك��� ا �� ب��م��� � � ة م�� � �صو ب� ا �ر�ب� �م�ا ب����ب���ر�ب� �ب�اة�ل ب��ا ��ل����ا ب� �ب��ل�م�ا �اة�لة��� ح��� � ك ة� و� ة � ص ة ل و
34
34
٧،٢
٨،٢
٩،٢
Chapter Two
“No,” I said. “But I did think they might be the rulers of the town.” “Indeed,” he said. “They’re the rulers of the whole country, which is to say all of Kisrawān. This here is the customhouse, which they control. They’re Maronites from the al-Khāzin family, and they’ve taken over the collection of the mīrī tax in the country.”30 From there, he took me to see the seaport and the cave of the dragon slain by Saint George. We then returned to the monastery. We didn’t travel the next day. The khawājah decided to spend a few days
2.7
touring Beirut, as I’d told him about all the things I’d seen the first day. When we left the monastery together, he said to me, “From now on, if anyone asks you about me, tell them I’m a doctor.” He was wearing our native dress and a calpac on his head. We went to tour the city, and he searched for old coins, the kind struck by ancient kings. We bought forty or fifty coins that day and returned to the monastery. The next day, we set off again into the city, headed for the jewelry souk. He
2.8
hunted for precious stones and engraved rings, and we found a few, along with some more coins. On our way back to the monastery, a Muslim oil presser called out to us.31 “I have some coins,” he said. “Want to buy them?” “Let’s have a look,” I said. He went into his shop and brought out forty coins, each the size of a thulth, but thicker.32 He placed them before us, and when the khawājah saw that they were so rusty that no writing could be made out on them, he declined to buy any. Before leaving, though, he said a few words to me in Frankish. “Buy them from him.” After the khawājah left, I turned to leave as well. “What’s the matter? Aren’t you interested?” the man asked. “They’re so rusty you can’t read what’s written on them,” I said. “They’re worthless.” “Name your price,” he insisted. “The doctor doesn’t want them,” I said. “But as a favor to you, I’ll buy them myself. What do you want for them?” “One piaster for the lot,” he said. “That’s one miṣriyyah each.”33 I offered him half a piaster, but he wouldn’t agree. So I walked out and started on my way. He called out to me again, showing me the stone from a Seal of Solomon.34 On it was engraved a beautiful head, with some letters beneath
35
35
2.9
�ش ا ب �ب ا � �������ل ا �ل�� �ة�
��بل ة � � ���ة ا ��بل ��ع ة� �و� ط�� �وا ب��� ب���ل�م�ا �ا ء ب�� � � ب� �� �وة���� ب�ل��ل����ا �ب�� ا �ش����ةر��� بل ك� ��ا �� ��م�ا ه �و� ب� ��ا � �حج� ا � ة ع ة� م م � � � ا ة�� � ب ة ة � ��م � ا �ل ب ا ش ة ا �ل � �� �حج� � او � ��ب���ل�و��ص. �م� ��لك. حة��ً�د ���ل� �ل��لر ب���ل ا �� ب������ر�ة� ب ة� ب ع � � ب ة � ة � ا �ب ب ب ا � ا ب � ب ح��د � ة ا ب��ة�ًرا ب�����د ا ب��ل �ة� ا ب �ل�مة�� ح�ة� �و����لة��� ب�� �� ع �عر��ص �و��ل��ل�� �م� �ة� ��ود �� �ع ��ط� ��ة� ا � �����ل�و��ص � ��بل ة ةبا ب ب � ةب � ���ا ب� ا ��بل �و ب�� ��ة��� ا ��ب��ر��شص � او ب���د �ة���� �و���ر ة� �وك� �حج� ا ��ا �� ب��ا �ع �� �� �وا ب��� � او � ��� �ب�ة��������� ��ة� ��ة� ة م م � � ب���ل ا � � � ة ����ه ب�ده ا �� ب� ��� ا �ش �ة �لة ة���لة � �ب�� � � ا ا � �� ا �ه �� ا � � ��ب� ��ش ة � � � � عو ب�� �م� و ��ل� � ���� �ة� �ل ��� رة � � ���م �� ه�م و م� ع�ط� �م ة� �ل� ب �ر ص ة� � � ب �ع���ا ك ����ة�ر ب�ل ب��ا ا �ة� ا �ل��د�ةر. ب � �ب � ��ل ب ا ا �� �م ة ح �� �ب �ب ا ب �ش �� ة ب � � � ة � � ب ���ل ب��ا ���� ب�ة� ب� �ة� �ة� ر � �سوة� ���ل و ح ��ط �ل��لك ا � �����ل�و��ص ��ة� و �ة� و�ص�و �� �ة� ب � بة � ة � � ب � ب ب ب � ا �لة ا � � � ا ل ا �ة � بد ��ل��ك ا ��بل �� م�� � �ص �و�� �و� �حج� �و ��ة� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل���ر�� ا�ا ك ���ل �و��� � ة �� م��ل �ة� د � � � � � ه � � ل � � ك � ب و و � ر ة� ب � اة ب ش � � � � � ��ة��� �ل�� ب� ����ل ب�� �ة ����ل ب�� ���د �ة� �� ��و �ة� ���ط��ل� ����ل � ب���ل � �حج� ��ل�� �حج� �و� � � ��ده �م� �ة�� �عر��ص ���� ��ة ب � � ب � ب ة ب ب ة ة ب �وا ���� ب�ل��ل ��� �ب�ا � ���د ا �ا ��ص �م��ل�ك �م بص �م��ل�وك ا � ����د � �وا ��ص �ع ���ة�� �و�م�ا �ا د �ة�������ع بص �� �� ة� م ة ب ب م ب � ب �و��س�و�� �ب�� � ح��ص �ع بص ا ���م�� ��ة� ا �لة�ص او ة��1. ج ب � ب �� د ب���ل ة ا �� �ع ب��ده �ب ا �لة��� �ع� �ا �� ب��م��� ا �� ��ب ���د ا �ب ا �� ة � � � � ا �� � �م ب م � � ل � م � م � � � �وش�ا ��ة� �ة ��و�م �ب�ا ��ر � � � � ة ��م� ل � ة� رة وص ص ر ة ة ب � � ا ب ب � ا � � �ة ��ا ��ا �ة �م��� ��� ���� ب��� ب���ة�� اج��ب ���� ب��ا ������� � ��ا ب�� ة� ل��ة� � � ل � � � م ا � � � م ه � م � ���د ل � � � � � � � ل � � �� ب� �ل ك � ��� �و ب ب � ب � ب ب ر ة وب م ة � ب � � ��بل ة � ب ب � ة ا ��ل�� بد �ة� �ا ��ة ة� �ص�و��ة�� ��ب� ب�� �حج� ا �� ار �ة� � او �ل ش����ا ���د ��ا �� ا �ل��د �ة� ا �ش����رة�ل ب��ا ه �م بص د ا ك ا �ر ب���ل ا�ام��� ة م �� �ش �ا ا � ب ا ب � � � ب ل ب � ة ا � ب ب� � ا ا ب ب ب ب � � � � � � � � � ��م� �ب��د �ل��ك ل ب��� ���� �ل�� د �ل�ك ا �ر ب���ل �مص اة�ص ح����ل ���ة� ����ل �ل�و��ص �و ب�حج� ����ل�� �ب� ��� �ا ك��ة ر �م � ب ب �� ب ح� ���ط ة��دة�� �ا�م�ا ب�ر ب� �و�ا د ة���ع��ره �ب ار �ه� �س� ��ب� ا ����ا ��ص � ط�م�و�ة� بص ��ة� ا �ل����ص. ة ة م م ً � � ب ب ��ا ب ب �� � ة ب ب ة ب ب ب ب ش ا ا ا ب �ود �ل��ك ا �لة �صو� �ر ب� ح ب�� ا �ة�� ��� ���د �و� ��ة� ا�م�دة�ل��� � �و �������ص ����� ���ل�و��ص ��د �م �وك�� � د �ل�ك م ة � �ة ة ش ا ب �� � � ا ب � � �ب �ا ب �ا ب � ب ب ا ا ا ة ب ل � � ا � � � � � � � ا ا � � � � � � � ا �ل �و ب�� ب� � ك م�� � ة� ك ��� د و� مص ك ا ���وك� ���� �ب� ر � ح�ة��م ���� �و ة � م�� � و ه�و � ب � ب ا ة � �� ��مة � �� �ب � ا ��ل��� ب�� �مب��� � ا ��ل��� ب �ة � �� ح� � � � � � �� � ة� �� � � � � � ل ل � � � � � � � � � � � � ط � � � � � � � � � � � � � �م و � م وص ح� ب ص � م و ب ص ة و وة ب � م ب ��� �ب� ب ��س ا �م ب �ةل��ل�ك ا �� ��ب���ل� �� � ا �ل ب��ا ���� ب ة��د � ب���ل�م�ب��ا �م ش ���� �و� ��ا ��ص �وك� ���ا � � او � � ���د د�ع ب� � � � و� ص م ة م و ص و�ة ب � م �ش بش ة ب ��� . ������ر�ة����م ب ��م � م ��ا � ب � ب ا � ب � ة ����� � ب ا �� � � � ب ��ب ب ا �ب ة � � � � ا � � بو�����د ك�� �م ة ��و�م �ر بح�� مص �ب�ةر �و� �وطله�� ا ة� ب حب���ل ا �ل�د ��و� �ود ��� �ة� �ل�لك ا �ل��م� �ص ب ببة � ��ا ب ب ة ش � � � �� ا ��س ���ط��ة ا ��ل ح����ل ب��ا ��س ��ل�� ��� �ب��ل� �� � � �� ��ً�ا ��� �ب��ل�و��ص � او ��بل � � او ب��� ة� �� � ����� ش��ص ا �ة� ب� �� ح�م�� ك�� � �� او �ة����� �و ة� و ص ح� وب و � ة م أ 1ال��ص�ل :ا �لي��وا ي�ف. �
36
36
١٠،٢
١١،٢
١٢،٢
١٣،٢
١٤،٢
Chapter Two
it in some indistinguishable language. When I saw it, I turned and called after the khawājah. He looked at the stone and tossed it aside. “Buy it for whatever price he asks,” he said to me as he left. “I’ll take it all,” I said to the man. “The stone and the coins.” After a lengthy negotiation, I brought him down to a single piaster for
2.10
everything, saying I could go no higher. He handed over the coins and the stone, and I gave him the piaster. I gathered everything, left, and found the khawājah waiting for me around the corner. “Did you buy it all?” “Yes, but he wouldn’t sell for less than a piaster.” “Bravo!” he said. “Let’s go back to the monastery.” When we arrived, he said, “Bring me a little bit of vinegar in a bowl.” He
2.11
put the coins in the vinegar, and studied the stone and its engraved letters with great delight. “Believe me, if that man had asked for a hundred piasters for the stone alone, I would have given it to him, because this stone has tremendous magical properties,” he said, but he wouldn’t tell me what they were. “This is the head of an ancient king,” he continued. “I’ll look for his name in the chronicles.” The next day when I went in to see him, he was wiping the rust off the coins.
2.12
I could see that they were all pure silver, and the inscriptions were clearly visible. “These coins were struck by the king whose image was on the gemstone we bought from that oil presser,” he said. It was evident that they were ancient coins, because when we’d asked the man where he found the coins and the stone, he said he’d discovered many of them at the base of an old crumbled wall. When he set about rebuilding it, he found them buried in the ground. That same day, we went again to tour the city in search of old coins. Mean-
2.13
while, news had spread that the khawājah was a doctor, and people sent us from one place to another. He would treat some people and prescribe medicines to others, asking everyone for his fee in the form of old coins. We amassed an assortment of coins, some of silver, some of brass. A few were made of gold, which we bought, paying what they were worth. After a few days, we left Beirut and went up to the Mountain of the Druze and roamed about looking for coins.35 The khawājah would dispense medical treatment, using it as a means to have people hunt for coins on his behalf.
37
37
2.14
�ش ا ب �ب ا � �������ل ا �ل�� �ة�
� بً � � ح ش����ا � ش�� ا � ��ة �و ب���د�ب�ا ���ا ��ب� �ةل��ل�ك ا ب��ل ���ا ���� ب���� ب�� � �� ك� ���د �مب � � ���ا � � او � حب��ا �ل �و�م بص �ه ب��ا ك � ة ة ���م � او ة�� ة� ص ص ة ��ة� م � ب� ب �ب ��ا ب �ة بة ب � ب ة ب �ة � ب ا � ب ��را �ل��د �ة� �ه�ود ا ���ل ب��ا � � او �و��ص ا �لب��ا ��ك�� �� ����د ا �وب� �رل ب��ا ��ة� ب��ة�� ة� ا � ��هب�� ��و ب � ح��� ا �ة� �م�دة�ل��� � ة � � بً ب � � ب ة ب ب � � ب ب ب ���ا د ا ��� د �ل��ك ا �ل ��ر � او �لب��ا ��ك� ���ا � ا ���را � ب� بر�ل��ل. � او ب��� �م بص ا � ��هب�� ا �ة�� ��ا � �و���ا � �ل���ل� ل م ة ا ب �� �� ب ة ا ب ب �� ة� � ب ب � ة ���ا � �ا �ع ب� �م بص ��هب�� � ا ل ك� �و ��� د �ل��ك ا ���و�ك ة� ا �ب��و ب���د ك� ��س��ل�� �م� � ��ة���ةص ا �ة� ا � ����د ��ص ة م � � ب ب � ب ب ب ب ���ا ب �م��� �ب ب � � ���د �م�� ��ا ���ب ب ة ب � ا ا ا ��� ا �ل ��� �و��م� ا ��� ك�� � ا �و���د �ر�م� ك� �� � � ا �ل � � � �� �ه ا �ل��د �ة� ك� � � ة �� ب �وا ب�� �ة� ��م�ر م � م ب م ب ب ب �ة � ب ب �ةب ب ب � �ة �ةر�����ل�� ا �ة� ا � ����د ��ص ��ا �ل��ر�م �ب�ا � �ة�ا ���ده �م���� � او �ب ��ة��ا �ة� ا �ب�ا ��ة� ب��ة�� ة� ا � ��هب�� ��ر �و����ا �ر�م� ا �ر�هب��ا � ع � � � � ب �ة � ة ب � � � �ا � �ا �� �ب����� ا � م�� م �ل ب ح�ة�. و م � � �ة� ة ب� �وج � ص � ة ب ب ا � ة �ة ة ب ا �� � � � ب ب ا ة ا � � ا � ا ب ا ا � �ب ا ا ��بل ب ��ا � ب��د ��� ��ة� � او � ���د �� �س���م� �ه�� ك ا �ة� ة ��وم مص د � �ل��ة� م �و �� ب�� �ل��ص �ة� �ب� ب� � ب � ������ة ب���ة ���� ب ���ا ب� ا �� ��ة��ا ��� ب ح�ة��� �ع ب ا ����م �و�ع ب ك� ةص �ه ب��ا ك �و����ا � ب��� �ع بص ا ����م ب��ا ب� �م بص ا �لب��ا ب��ك� � � � � ة � ب � ص ص ة� ة� ة ب ب ة� ة � ب � ب �ة �م ب ���ل �م ب�� ش �ا �ب � � د ب���ل ب� ا �� � ب �ة�ص � �����ة�� �م ب �بر�� � او ب�رب� ا �ع ��ط�ا �ة� ا�ا ك ب��ا �ة� � ك ح ة� م�� �صو ب� ص ب� ��� �ك و �ة� ة� م�� و ب ج ا��ة ب ��ا ب ب ب ب �ش � �ب � ةة ا ة � ��ب� ا ��ب ب� ب� ة ب ا� ك م�� �صو ب� �و � ار ��� �و�ه�و ك�� � �مص �ع��د ا ��ة� � �وب� �ع� ب�لة �ص بوح�ة� ك���ة�ر ك�ة ة� ر ح� �مص ب � ب � ب ة � � � ب ب � �ل � � �ة �� ا ��� ���ل� �م ب ك�� ���ل �ب��د �م� ا �و�ل ������ل ا �ل��د �ة� ب����ة�صو ب��� � ب ص ة ��ل ب� مص ��ة ر �� �م� � او �ة� ا ��و�م ا � بع ة ع � ب � ا ��� ا �� ��� ب �س�ة� �� �ع ب��د بد ��ل��ك ا ��بل ���د ا ��� ���ط �ل�� � ةص �م�ا ب����ة�صو ب��� ا ��� ��طرب�ك ب��ا �ود ا �� ��ر ��� �ب�ا �� ا � ة � ا � ل�� � ب � و ة ر ة ة ة ب ص ة ة ة م �� ة � ب ة ا �ب � ا ����ب � ب � ب � � � � � � � � � � ك ةل �و� ����� ر م���� مص �ل ب��د و���ب�� ب� و�ل� � �. م �ب � ا ��� ة ة ة ا� �ةص ���ا �ع ب��د � � ب ب � ب ع ����� ك�� �ة ��ب� ا �ب�� �م�ا ا ������ ا �� �ل �واةب� � � �ل�م� �مك�ل� � ار ا � ا� ك م� �و ب� ة� ر� � � ة ة� ج ةم � � �� ة� ��ل�� �عب ح�ب��د ا �� �ب�ع ة� ا ��ل��ا بد ��ل��ك ا ��بل ���ا� . � ا � ��ة� د �� �وا ب��� �وة���� ا �ب�ا �و����لب��� � ك م�� �صو ب� �م بص �ع ب��د � � ة ر ة ً � ة ة ب ة ة ا ة ب� �ة ة � ب ا ا ب � � �ل � ب� ا � ب ا ة ا �ب ا �� �� � � � � ه � � � � � ا ا � � � ا � � � � � � ل د د � � ل � � � � � � � � � م م ل � م م�ك �و ب � ر � ب ة� � ك ة� ب� � � � و � � ة� � �ب ة � ب � ا ��� �� ب ا ة� � ��ل�� ا ب�� ة� �لة��ة��د �ةل��ل ب �مب�� ��ا �� � ا � ا �ب�ا �� �� �ش���د ���ط � ��ة حة � � � � ح� � � ا �ل�� � � ب ب � و � و � ب � م و ل ر ر رة ة� ر ة� ب ر ج � � ب �� ب � ة � �ب ب �وا ب��� ب� ��و��ل ���وك� ���ا ����اة� �����ل���ط�ا ب� �بر�ب����ا �ام�ا �ب��ر ب� � او �ب�ا ا �ل�� ��ا د �م �ع ب��د �� ع �مص ا � ����د ��ص �ه�و ة ج � ب �وا ب�. �ب�ة�رد �ل��ك �ع��ة� ب�� ب� ً � ا ب �ة ا ب��ة�را �م بص ب�����د �م ب��ا ���ده �ع �ة��م�� � او ب���د �و�د �ب ا ء �م�ا �مب��� ب��ا �ه� . حة�ب�ً�د ا �ع ��ط� �ة� � ك م�� �صو ب� ر ة ّٰ ب ��� ة � ا ���� � ة� ة � ب � � � �ش�ا �� �م بص ا ب��� �ود ا �� ��ر ��� ا بل ك� ��ا ب� �م�ا �ب��ةر���د ة�ر ب� � � � �� ا لل� ة���س����ل طرة���ك و لك ح� ة��د د �ل�ك ة ة ة ة ع � ��ة� ة �� � � ة � ة ة ا ب �� ب� �ة�ا ب���د���ا �م ب �ع ب��ده � ا � ش�� �م�ا ا ���ة ب ة� �م ب ل ا ��بل � ا � � � � �ل �وا ب��� ب ب��� ا � �� ج ��ة� د ��ر� �ة� �ع � ��� ب ��و �واةب ر ص ص وة ص بً ا ��بل �ر ب� حة��� ا � ���ا ب���د �م ب��� � او �ب�ا د �� ��ر ة� ��ل�� �ب�ا �ب�� �ة ��و����ل�ك �س���م�ا ا ���ة بر ة� �م بص ا ��ل��د �ا �ه� �وة� � �� � � � � ر ة � ة� م 38
38
١٥،٢
١٦،٢
١٧،٢
١٨،٢
Chapter Two
We turned up a few, along with some mountain plants. From there, we headed to Sidon and lodged at the home of the consul, which was in a caravansary where all the foreign merchants had their quarters. The khawājah was treated very honorably by the consul and the merchants. At that same time, some Franciscan friars happened to be traveling to Jeru-
2.15
salem.36 The khawājah decided to travel with them, as he’d promised the servant who attended him during his travels that he would take him to Jerusalem. So he was obliged to accompany him, and to leave me at the consul’s home while he traveled with the friars. Unluckily for me, I didn’t get to go along.37 So I remained in Sidon. One day, while sitting by the gate of the caravan-
2.16
sary, one of the foreign merchants who lived there called me over and asked my name. When I told him my given name and family name, he said he’d received a letter for me from Aleppo! He took me into his store, took out the letter, and handed it over. I opened it. It was from my brother, who’d written to admonish me furiously for leaving Aleppo without telling him, and to demand that I return with the first caravan headed his way. Until then, I was to stay put, with the merchant. “I want you on the next caravan to Tripoli, no ifs, ands, or buts!” he wrote. As I came to the end of the letter, I welled up with sadness. How could he
2.17
have refused to send me the clothes I’d asked for? The merchant turned to me and said, “I also received a letter from your master, khawājah Rémuzat. He told me to send you back to Aleppo whether you liked it or not.” “I’m not under the authority of khawājah Rémuzat anymore,” I said, “and you can’t make me go anywhere! I’ll decide where I go all on my own! I now serve khawājah Paul Lucas, a traveler on the sultan of France’s business! As soon as he returns from Jerusalem, he’ll speak for me.” After much argument and back-and-forth, the merchant saw that I wouldn’t budge. So he took out a second letter from my brother, and handed it to me. “If you don’t wish to return, God grant you a smooth journey,” my brother had written. “I’ve sent you the bundle of clothes you’d requested, in the care of this merchant. Take the clothes from him, along with as much money as you’ll need. I’ve told him to advance you whatever you ask for. Send me receipts for the clothes and the money you’ve taken. Godspeed.”
39
39
2.18
�ش ا ب �ب ا � �������ل ا �ل�� �ة�
� ب � ب ة �ة ب ا �و� �ص ��ل ��ب� ا ��ل �واةب� � او ��بل � �ر ب� حة��� ا � ��ة� ب�لة��ا ب���د���ا �م ب��� � او �ل����ل�� � ���ل�م�ا � ار ة� �ش�ا �ة� � ك � م�� �صو ب� ����� � و ة ة م �ج � ة � � ب ب � ة � ب ب � ب ش ��� ا �ل �ع ب��د �� �ب � �ع ��� �� ��� �و�ص� �ل ا �ل حة�ب��د ا �رب� ا �ع ��ط�ا �� ب ب�� �واةب�� . �واةب� ا � �� �� و ج �و���� ��ة� ا �ة���ص ة ة رج ةم ة ً ج ج ب � � � ب ش ب ل � ة � ا ا ا ة � ب ب � � بر��د �م ب ا ��بل � � �ة�د � � � ����� �و�ص�و�ل �مص �ة��د ة� �ب� ب �مة�� �ر بحة��� � ��د � �م��� ك�� � �عر��ص � او �ع �� ة ص ة م ع �ة � ب ب ة �ب � �و� ب� ��ر � او �ب�ا �مب����س�و ��ط ��ة� ��� �ة�� �م�ا لة���و�. ��ع ة� ا ��ة� ب��ة�� ة� ا � ��هب�� ب � ا � ة �ة � � م��ا ب� �وك� م��ا ب� ا ��� � ك� ����ده ا د �و� � او �ة ب���رب� �م بص � ك� ���ا ب� � �� � �ع ب��د �ب�ا �عة��د ح� �س���م ة� ��ة� � و ة ة ج � � � � �ع ب �� ا � �ب �ة ا�ا� ا �ب � ��� � �ة � � ا ا � �د �مب �ل �ة �ل � �ة �ب � � ة�� ب ا � �� م ا � � ا ا � � ا� ك ل��ب��ة ر و ��د �ط� ة��� م�و �� طر��� م� �� ���� بة���د � ب ة��� ر� وة� �� ول �ل����ر � �ل� ة م � ة � ب � � � �� �ب ب � ب �ب��� ة ���د ���ا � �س��ا ب� ���� بر�مب��� � او � ��س��� �ع ب��د ا �ل� ح ب� �لة���ل�� ا ���هة��د ا ��ة� ��ة� ك� ة �و� ة� �ل� ب���ل ب������ص ا � ب ب ة بة ب ا � ����ة��� � ة ب � � � �� �ة ا �ة ب ���� ب��ا � �وب�ر �و� �ب�����ةر�ب� �ع ب��د ا ��بل �� ح �ل� � ��و� ة� و ��د � ا � ����د ا ��ص � �و����� �و�ل � بو�����د �م� �� ة بة �ة� ب ر ًج ب ب ب ب � ب ة ب ب ب ب ب ا ا ب � ة �� ���� � � � �� � � ا � ���� ا ��د �ة� ا �ة�� � ا � ������� � � ح�ب��. �ر� �� ة� ب ة و ة ة� وو � �ة� و ب ة � ب �ً ة ة ة �ب ب � ����د ا ا �� ��� ب � � ةص �م�ا � ب� �� �م����ل��م� �م بص ا � ��ة��د ��ص �ب�ا � ك � ح��ة�ة���ل�� �ب�ا � � � ا ��ة را ا �س���م� �ة ة ة ة ع �ة ب � ا � ا �ب � � � ب � � �ب ا �ب � � � ب � �ب �و����ةلمب� ا ��ل �واةب� �م� � ك م�� �صو ب� �م بص ا ��ة� �وك��ة�� � ك ���ا ��ة ب� �ل��د �ل��ك ا �ل� �� �و ب�� �ب� � ةر ب ��س��ة� ا ��ة� ة� جع با ب ً ب � � ب ب � ة � ة ش ب ة ا ا ا � � � � � ��� بل ك� ��ب��� �ع��ة��ب��� � او �ل�� ا �� �� ب��� �ب ��� ار � ة� �م���ك �������� � او �� ا �ة�� ���ل �و���د ة� �م���ك ��ل ب� ��ة ة � � ��بل ب � ة� � ب ا ب� �و����ل ب��ا �ب�ا �ل����ل�� �م�� ا ��� �م�دة�ل ب���ة �ب��ه���� � او �رم� ك� ��ا � ا �ل��د �ة� �ا � �م���� �ل��ل�ة��د ��ص �م�ا ��� د ةص ة ج �ب ب � ة حة � � � ا �� �� ��ده �ب�ا � ة � ب ةة �س��ة��م ة� ا �ب�ا � � � �� ��ا ��س����ا �م �ه ب��ا ك ��ة� ةروج ة� ب ل �ب و ��د �ة� �ة� ��د �م�� ����ل ع � � ة ب ب ة �وا ب��� � بو�����ده �ع�مة�ب��ا �ب�ا �ل��م��ر ا ��ة� ب� بر�ره �ب��ر��س. �� ة
40
40
١٩،٢
٢٠،٢
Chapter Two
After reading the second letter, I was overjoyed to learn of the arrival of the clothes! The merchant took out the bundle, handed it to me, and asked how much money I wanted. I took a few piasters and wrote out receipts for everything and returned to the consul’s home, as happy as could be. I stayed on in Sidon, touring and seeing the sights. It was Easter time, and
2.19
according to the custom of the Maronites, for some reason or other, one could only attend confession and receive communion from one’s own church and priest. A friend of mine invited me to spend the evening of the feast at his home so that we might rise early and go to confession with the priest, attend mass, and receive communion. After fulfilling our obligation, he invited me back to his house as his guest and treated me with due regard. I remained in Sidon until my master returned from Jerusalem, whereupon I informed him that my clothes had arrived with a letter from my brother.38 I told him all about how my brother had instructed the merchant to send me back to Aleppo by hook or by crook. “I’m fully committed to joining you on your voyage,” I said. “And I promise to do right by you, if we get to Paris in one piece,” he replied. The servant who’d gone with him to Jerusalem hadn’t returned, remaining there so he could continue on to his own country. So it was that only I remained in the service of this khawājah. We made ready to travel to the island of Cyprus.
41
41
2.20
�ب ��ح� ا ��ل�شح�ا ��ل ش � ا � ���� ل� �ب � ب ب � �� ب� �ة � � ل � ل � � �وا ب�� ب� ��ول� � � �� ا �و�ل ��حج��و �ة� ب�حج� م � ة ع ب ب ب �ة ب � � ش �وك���ا � د �ل��ك ��ة� ��س�ه� ا �ة�ا � ���ح�� 1707
� ���ا ���وك�
� ���� ة ب �ة ���ا ب� ا ��لة �صو� ا ��بل ��ا �م�� �م بص �ش�س�ه� ا �ة�ا � ب�ر ب� �و�ا��ح�ا ك� ���� ��و� ����د ا ��� �ش�سة� �� ح ب��ا �م بص �م�دة�ل�� � ب ة ة ص م م ب � �ب ش ا ب ب ة ة � �ب ا ب ة �� ش �� ة � ة ا � ب � � � � ا � � � ل � � �� ا ل ا ا � ك �س� � � م م ��س ل � � � �د ل � �� � ��� ك � �� � � � � � � � �� � � ��ا � � � ة �ة� ة� ���ده ب�ر�ةره ب ر ص ص ة �ل ر� ة ة ص ب� ة ب� ة �ب ا ب � ا ��ا ب � � ب � � � � ا �ب�ا �م ب ��� ب ���� د ح� �و�م� �� ب�� �� ب� ا ����� ��ة� �وك�� � ا � ةص ب� بر �و �ة� ��ة� ا �ل ش��سة� �� �� ب� ة ر � ��ة و ص ة ة ج � � ة � � ة ة ب � ����ا � �و����ل ب��ا ا ��� ا � ك� �س���ل ة� ا�ام�ل�� ��� ا �ع��� ا ��ة� ب� بر�ره �ب��ر��ص. �م�ه ب��ا �و�كب���ل �م�ا �ة��ب��م � ا ��� ب ة ة ة ج ج � � � ب ة � �س���ل�� ��بم�ا �ع ة� �م بص �ة��ا د �ة� � او �ب�ا د اة ب� �ب ار��ة ة� ا � ��ة���ل���� � او �ل��� او د � ا ��ل�� بدة� بص ��ب� ا �ل��� ك� ���ل�م�ا ا �ب��� � ب ة م ج ة ا ب ب ا � � ب � ب� ب �ب با � ة � ة ����د ا ا �� ��� ب ب ب � ة ة اب ب ا � � � ا �س� ل � ك ���د �ك� �ب� �ل�� �و����ل�� ا �ة� �ب��ر��ص ب�ل��ل��م�� �ب� �ل�� �ل� �ا �ل حص �ة� � � ة ة� ةص � ب � �� ب ح�ب��د ��ا ب�ل ب��ا � ����ل ب��ا ا �� �ة�� �� � ا � ة � �ب�ة�� ة ة ة ����ا � �م�ة�ل�م �م�ا ا �ب��م �سس�ه�وب�� ة� ��م�� ار �بل��ر ك�ة��� ة� ب ر ص و ح���ع� �ة ً ب و � ا ��� ب ج ج ج � ة ا ب�ل ب��ا ��ب ��ل���ل�� � ����ل ب��ا �م ب ����د ا ا ��ة� �ب��ر��ص. � ة� ة و ص ة ب � ب ً ب ب ا ب � ش � �� � �س�� � � � ب ا � ا � ب ا � ب ا �� � � � � � ���� ا �� ا �ل�� ك� � � � ا �ل � �س��ل�� �و�مص ا �ل�� ك��ل� �م�ل�� � �وة بح�� �و�ح�� ا �ة� ا ��ة را �ر بح�� مص ��سة�� ة ة � � ش ة ب ب ة ب ب ��ر ب��ا �����ةر� ح ب� ��ب� �م����ل��م �ة��و�� ك� ����ة�ر �و�هة��ا ��ل�� ��را � ��� �ر����ا � �وة�� ���ل�م�ا د ���ل ب��ا �و�اء �ب�ا ا � ��هب�� ب��ة�� ة� �كب�� ة� ة ة ا � ب���� � بم�� � �ش���� ا �ع ب� ل�ة ب بة ب � ب ا� ب ا ا ش �� ة � � �� � ب �� و� �ة� ب رو ح� ب�م�ل�ل �و��را ���ة� �و�م� ة���سب��� د �ل�ك �مص ��� او ��م ا�م�� �م�� � �و �����ل� او ً ة � ة �واة ب� ���� �م ب��ا �م���. ���ا ا ��ة� ا �و ب� ح ب��ا ا �ة� ب� �� ة � ا ا �� ب � �ب ا ة� ا ا �� ب� ب ا � � ا �� �ة ا �� ب � ب ب ب � بب � بو�����د �ة��و� ��ط��ل�ه ب��ا �ب��د �و� �و�لة���رب� �و��� ��و ة��ر��و� ب�� � �� �ر���� �وة� ��� ���� ةص ��ة� د �ل��ك م ج ب ا��ب � ا �ة ش � � ا � �ب � �� ب � � � � � ة ة ب ا ب ة � � � � � �ل � � م � � م � ا�ا ك� � � � � ا ا ا � � ك �ل ع � � � ل �� � ك ل � � � � � � � ك � � � � � � � � � م � ��س ل � � ك � � � م��ا � �وك���ل ر �ة � �م �و م رة ة و � �م ب ة �و �ل ب رو �ة� و � ب ة � م� ب �� ���ا ��� ���ط ��ش �ب ا �� ب �ب�� �م�ا � ب�� ب � ب ب � ��ب � ة ����� او ب�ل��ل����ا �ة� �و�ام�ا ك�� ة� ا � ��ع ش��ص �م����م� ���م ��ة� �ل����ا �����م �و�ل� �� بص ب�لة�� � ك� �ل ر ص �ة� ر ب �
42
42
١،٣
٢،٣
٣،٣
٤،٣
Chapter Three
My First Time at Sea with Paul Lucas, in the Month of May 1707 39
On the fifth of May, we left Sidon on a Greek ship headed for the island of
3.1
Cyprus. The ship sailed from Sidon at two o’clock in the morning. I felt seasick from the moment I set foot on board, so I lay down to sleep by the mast. The winds were favorable and, before dawn broke, we arrived at the port of Larnaca, on the island of Cyprus. When I awoke from my slumber—still feeling seasick—and saw the fort
3.2
and all the people on the wharf, I could scarcely believe we’d arrived in Cyprus. I had assumed we were still in the port of Sidon! By the time day had fully broken, I realized we were indeed in Cyprus, and I marveled at how easy it was to travel by sea. We’d made the journey from Sidon to Cyprus in a single night! We disembarked onto the dock, gathered our baggage, and went to the
3.3
home of the French consul. When we walked in, the consul greeted my master warmly and had a furnished room prepared for him, with an ornate bed, chairs, and other necessary comforts. All of our things were brought up to my bedroom. The next day, we toured and saw the sights. The French merchants who lived in Larnaca began to invite us over. Their servants were all Greeks, and of the Orthodox faith. I felt like a deaf man in a wedding procession: I couldn’t understand their language, they couldn’t understand mine. When I spoke to them in French, they understood but would only respond in Greek, mocking
43
43
3.4
� � �ب ا � �������ل ا �لش��ا �ل ش�
� ب � ب ب �ب �م�ا � د � ا �� ّ ا ��� ��ا �� � �م ا � ة ب ب ّ � � ب ب�ل��ل����ا ب� ا � ب���ر��� ب��م�ا ا �ب���� ب�لة�� ��� �� او � � ل��ص ةر و ��� �ل ب رو ة� �سس�ه�ا ��ة� �ل������ ب��ة��ب��� ب� � � � �ص او م ة � �ب ة ة ب م �ًا ة ة �ب�ب �ة � � ة ب م � � � �ك��س� ا � ك� � � � � م� � �� � ك ك � � � �س� � ��� . �� ��� ح�ط� ل��ا � ��و�ل�ة � ة��م �� ��ر� ب ة � ة م ة م � � � ب ا� �� � � ا �ب �ة �و�����د ك� ���ا � �ة ��و� �ا د �م����ل��م �ةر �و� ا ��ة� ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� ا � ��ة� ��هة� ب���هة��ده عص ا�م�ل �� � �� ح� �م���� � ب ة م م ة ة� ج ة ب �ة �� � �ة ب � �� ا �ب � ب �مهة �ة ش ا ا ا � ب �� � � � � �ل � � � � � �� � � ه ا ا �س�� �و �ة� م�دة�ل�� ا ل�ب� ر �ة� ب رةر ب� ر ص ا ب����� ع���ر���� �� �و ��ل �و����ل م�دة�ل�� م� ة���و� ة � � ��ا ب ة ا � ب ����ا � ب���ل �ب�ا د ��ة� �م بص �� بع�ب���ة �م�ا � �بر�ب���ة���� �ب��ل�م�ا �ع�مة�ب��ا �ب�ا �ر� او � ا ���� �ةل��ل�ك ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� �وك�� � �� �� � ج ة ص �ة ب � ب � �ة ا� ب � � ة ا ببا ب ة ا � ا ��ر � ك ��ا �ع ��ط�ا �ب�ا ا � ��هب�� م�� �صو ب� �ل��لب�� د ��ة� ا�م�د ��و� � ��و��� �ة� �كة��� � او ��� �ة��هب���ل ب�� �ع ب��ده ��ة� ا �ل��د�ةر ةا � ا ب با ب � � � ا� ا ب با � ب ب��ا � ة ��س���� � �� �ر�ل ب��ا �م� �سم � حة� ش� ع � ب���ل �� ��طر ب��ة� �و���� � �ر� د �ل��ك ا �لة �صو�م ا ��ة� ا�م���� ���و����ل�� ا ��ة� �ة ب ة � � بب � ب ك� ���ا � ب��ة�� ة� ا � ��ة��ا ��طر ب��ة� ��� بر�ل ب��ا ��ة� ب��ة��ة���. ب � ب ب � ب ة � � �����د ا � �ك���م�ع ة � ب ش ���� �ع �ة��م�� �م�هب���ل�� �م بص ا �لب��ر ��ر ب� ح ة� �ل ش����ا ���د بو ���� �� �صو ب� � ح��ص ��� �و��ص �و ب� � � ة ة � � � � � ا ا ��بل � ب ا �� ة �م�ةه��� � ب �� �� � ا ب ب ����� ب ح ب��ا ب��ر �ا ب� � ةص �م بص ا�ا��ر��� �و�� �� ��� ا ��� او � م� �ب� ر �رة� ب ل�ةص ل ���د ا ب��ا ا ��ة� ب��ة�� ة� ط�� � ة ة ع � � �ب ب ا ب ب ��ا �ب�ا ب ��ل�� ب ا �� ��ة��ا ���ط ب�� ا ��ل�� بد �� ل ب��� بر ة� ا �لب��� ة� ��س��ا ب� ب��د ب���ل� او �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل ةص ب�كة��� �وك� ���ا ب� � ا � ر ة� ة ح�� ��ةر د ا ���ل ة ة ج ب � � � ا � ا ة ب ا ب ة ب ة ة � � � � � ب �ة��ش��ب ب� ة � � �ل� �ب ب ا �ب ��س�� ب �و�م� ��د ��� � ����د � �ر��د �ل�لك ا �ل�لة��ل�� �مص �ر�ل�لك ا ح�� �ةر. د �ل�ك ا �ل ة ج ب ش � �� ب ا ا ش ب ب ب ب ��ش ة � � � ا ����ا � ����ا �ب �بر�ا �وك� ���ا ب� �� بم�� �بر�ا ك���� �م� ��سة��� ���ل�م�ا ا �ب��م ةص ��ة� � �و ب� ���� �مص ���ره ا �ل� ��ب��� � � ا ��� ب ج � ا� ا ة ��ل ج � ����ل��ا ب���د �ا ء � � � ب�� ح�ة� ا ��ل��د ��و����� ا ��ل ب��ا ب�لة��� �م بص ا �ل��� ب��ص ك� ��ا ��ة� � او �ل��� ب��ص ك� ����ل���ا �م�ة�ل�م � �حج� � او�مة�� ه ا ب ة ج �ش ب �� ة � � ب ة ب � � ا� ش � �وده ��ب� �ةل��ل�ك ا ب��ل ا� � ا ب�لة�ب��ص ا ���� ���ل�ة��� ش��� �ر����� �و�ل� �����ا �ل �ع بص ا � � حب�� �ل ����ة� ك���ة�ر ل��ر�و�م ا�م�و ب � ة ة ة ب � � ب � ه ��ا �ب ��ا � ب � هة ا ��لب ح�ة �ة ة ا � � �و�م�ا ������ ا � ط�� ��ا ب�� . حة�ب�ً�د � ��ره. حب� �ع� �م� ��م�هة��� �ع بص ���د ه ا ب�لرةر ب �� ب رةر مً � � � �ب ب� � ب ب� ب م�د �� �و� ب��ا �����ةر� ا ب��ة�را �و����ل ب��ا � �� ح� � ا ����� ح ب� ��ر ا ��ة� ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� �وب� �رل ب��ا ��ة� د�ةر د �ل��ك ا �لب��ا د ��ة� ا�ا � �ب ب ا �ة � ش � ام ب ا ب ا ة � ة � �� ا� � ب ة � ب ا ب ب � �ب � � ب � ب كة��� ��و� ك� �وده ��� ا ��ل��د�ةر �و��ل�� ا �ر��� او �� ا ة� � ك� ����ة�ر � او �ع ��ط� �� �م���ةل�م � � � م��ا � ا �ل��د �ة� ة ة � ا ���ل �ة� ا�م�و ب � ة ج � � ب � ة ة ة ة ب � ب ب ب ة ب ا ا ا ا ا � ب � � � �س���م�� �ل�لك ا �ل�لة��ل�� � �و� ��� �ة��و� � �ب��ةر���د �وه ���� �� ��ط �� �� � � ح� �� �ر� ��د ا ����� � بو�����د �ع�ةس���� �و����ل ة ة م ة� � رم � ة ا � ب �ب ا� ا ب � �ب ا � ب � � � ا ب ب � ����ا ع�ة� ا ��ة� ا �لب�� د ��ة� �مص �ع��د ا �رة���ص ا �ل��د �ة� �ه�و �� ���ص �ة� ا�م�ل� ��� � او ��ره �ب� �� �ة� �� �ل � ا� �ة�صو ب� ا ��لة��� �ة��ة ��و� �ةر�و� ا ��� �ع ب��ده �م ب ك�� ���ل �ب��د �و������ �م بص ب��ة�ر �ة�ا ب��ة�ر� . م�� �و� �صو�ل ا� ك حة�ب�ً�د ص ب ب م ج ة � ة � � ا� ة � �ص � � ا �ب�� ا ��ل��ة ب � ��ب ا �� � ا � �ل�� ب� ا �� ا �� ��� �س ���ط�ا م�� �سس���د � ا �لب��ا د ��ة� �م بص �م����ل��م� � او �ا ه ا�ا ك و ب ش و رم ة� روج ة ر رة ص ب � � ب ب � � �� �ة � ب ا ا ب � �ود ��� د ��ل��ك ا �� ك� ب��ة�ر ا �ب�� ا �ع ���ط�ا �ب�ا �م�بهة��ا � ا �� ك� �� ��� ل��ل�� � �م بص ����م بص �و���ة ة� ل��ل � �و�ل�� �ب� � ك��ل �ة� ���و ب � ة ج �� � بب � �� � ب ب ةة � حب� �� ب� � ب �لة�ص ب� � ��� ب � �م�ا � ش��س��� بد ��ل��ك �م�ا م � ل � � � � � م � � م� �صو ص ل � �و�ب��ة��د �ع�ة ��� �و ب��د�ة��د �و �م �� رةر كب � �و ب ب و و�ة و و ب بص و ة ب ب � � � � جه� � ا ��ل��ل��بد ه ل ب��� ��ا �ب ش�����ةر��� ك�� ���د ا ا ��بل �ب�� بر �و ب�ب�� بر �ةب��ر��ص �م�ا �ل�� �ش��ب��ة��� ��ة� ا ����ل ���ل �ة ��و� ��طر�ة�. ط� و ة م م 44
44
٥،٣
٦،٣
٧،٣
٨،٣
Chapter Three
me, as they harbored a deep loathing for Catholics. I endured their company with much bitterness. After a few days, my master decided to visit Nicosia, the largest city in
3.5
Cyprus, just under fourteen hours from Larnaca. A priest belonging to the order of Saint Francis lived there. As we were about to set off for Nicosia, the consul gave us a letter of recommendation to present to the priest, asking him to accept us at the monastery. We hired some mounts from a muleteer, traveled all day, and arrived at the muleteer’s village in the evening. We lodged at his house. An hour after our arrival, I heard a great racket coming from the surround-
3.6
ing countryside. I went outside to find out what was going on and saw several herds of swine returning from the pasture. One herd came to the muleteer’s home, where we were staying. The pigs went into a corral by the house, and we couldn’t sleep a wink all night because of their grunting and snorting. In the morning, we set off again. The abundance of trees and the water
3.7
coursing everywhere made it seem as though we were strolling through a garden! Everything was green, even the ears of grain shooting up out of the earth. All the stone was white and blue and of fine quality. To say nothing of the lush vineyards found in those mountains, with no owners to tend them! That’s when I knew that everything I’d heard about Cyprus was true. It was indeed the Green Island! In the afternoon, we arrived at the city and lodged at the priest’s monastery. He welcomed us most generously and gave us keys to the cells, telling us to settle in anywhere we liked. We spent the night there and attended his mass the next day. A little while later, a messenger arrived from the abbot who lived in Larnaca. The priest was ordered to go see the abbot as soon as he received the message, and not delay for an instant. The priest showed my master the letter, apologized, and explained that he had no choice but to set off right away, as the abbot’s orders had to be obeyed. He did, however, give us the key to the cellar and told us it was fully stocked with butter, oil, old and new wine, salted pork and ham, olives, cheese, and so on. The only thing missing was bread. The bread of Cyprus, by the way, is delicious and has no equal. We bought it fresh each day.
45
45
3.8
� � �ب ا � �������ل ا �لش��ا �ل ش�
ً ب ا � ة �ة ا ب � � ب � ب ��ً�ا ��ب ا ��ل��د � ��ل�� ب� �م�ا ا ب��ة�را �ود �ع ب��ا �و����ا �ر ا �ة� �ع ب��د �ة������ �� �س���م ب�� د �ل��ك ا �لة �صو�م ا �ة�� ة� ةر ���د ���د ��ل ب��ا ��� ا ��ل��د � � .ا ب���ًا ا ب���د ب��� �ب�ا ��� �ب ب� ��� ���� د ��ب �ةل��ل�ك ا�ا�م�د �ل ب��� ة����م�ا با ةر ة ب ر � ب ل رب �ة� و و ة� �ة� �و ب �اة�ل�� ا � ة ��ا � ب ة �م� �ل � ا �ة � ب ب ب با ا � ب با � ح ب� �كة��� ����رج� �م����ل��مة� ��ة� ��د �و�م ���ل� ك�� ة��م�ة�ره �� ب�� ا �ة� �ع��د �� �و���ل��م ���ة� �� ��مة� و ���� ر ب � ً � ب��� ا ��� �ع ب��ده ��ل�� ب��� ا �ب�� اب� ب ا ��لب��ل��د �و�ل��� �ب� ا �����ط �ة� ب� ���ل��س� او �ة���ة����ا �� � او �م���ا �. حة�ب�ً�د �ة��ل�� ل ص ر ر بة ر ل ة ب �ب �� ب ب ا �� ا ب ةا ب � �ب � ب ب حة ب ة ب ا ا � � � � � � � � � � � �م����ل��م� �ب� ��ط�ل ب� مص �� ���لك �ب� ��ك ����� � ��د ة� ل ك�ل� �� �طرك �ب� � �� ��د �ة� �م���ك �ة� ة ب � � � �� ا ���� � �عمب� � .ب ح�ة �لة��ع ش����ا ���د ه �م�د �ل ب��� �ب�ا ��ا ة � � � � ا �ة ب�� � � � � ل � حة��ً�د �م��س����� �م����ل��مة�� ة� ة � � ة ب ب رم ة� � ة� و ة ة� �ربج ة� � � ب ا ���ا �ه ب���ة���ل�� ك� �س�ة��ا � � او �ة��ع ش����ا �و�����د ا ���ع ش����ا �بك����ا ��ل�� �م����ل��م �ع بص ك� �ع ب��د �ب�ا ب��ا � ة � ���ا ��ة� � ك ح��ة�� ����� � ب � م ةة ب� � ب � م � ب � � � �ب � ا �� � ح ش����ا � ش�� � ا � ا ه ل��� � ��ا ب� ��ر��س�و� كة�� ب� � � د ح � � � ل� � � � ة�����ا �ل�� ����ل ة �� � � � ح ش����ا ة� ش��ص ا �ل��د �ة� � ب و � و ب � ب و ة ص ص ة م ��ا ب �ًا ب ة ش � ا �ب م�� � ا �� ب ا ا � � � ب � �ب ب �� ب ح�� ا �� � ب � � ���ه �د �� ب ل � � د �� م � ح � د � � � � � � � � � � ه ل � � � ص � � � ل ك�� � د ا ة�م� �ة�������ص ��لة� ��� �ة� ا ب ب ل ب ب ب ة و ب ة� � ب ب �ل ة� و ب ة ر � ب ة � ��� ب ب ب ب أ � ��س� � � �ة ��و� �و�كة��� �ع�م�ا�ةر ��دة��م�� � �بر�ا �ب�� �مش���ل ل ب����ا ة���ص �ود �ة ��و�ه �و ب� ل��ا � ار ب� ��ا � �ش�س�ع ة� ل��بص ك�� � م ةع � ة � � �� ة�ر�و� ا �ة� �ل��ل�ك ا �ل��م�ا ��بص ا �ب�ا �بر�و� �م����ك. � ج ج � �ب ا ا ب �ة � � ا �� �ل � � � � �� �ب ا �ة�ب � ح�ة �م ب م��ا ��� � � � � � � ا � ل � � ا ا � ل ل � � ه م � � � � � � � � � ةر�ط ��ة� ك ة ة� ص � � �ة� �� ��مة� �ة� روج و و �� ب� � لك ة ل� ب � ب ب ب ا ��ر �����ا �ب � او � �وش�ا �ب� �ة ��و� ب���ع ة� ا �ش����ةر�� �م�ا ب�لة���ل بر�س��� �م ب ا ��� ط�� ��ة�ره � او ���د � او �م����� ��ا د � م ص �ب� �� ة ر ة ة م م ب ة م اب اب ة � ب � � ا �� � � �����ل�� ��� ������ةل��م ب��ا �و�ا � �س��ة�ة�� ��ب� ا ��ل��د�ةر ��ل�� ب� ا ��لب��ا د ��� ب� � � ة ة مص ا �و�ل�د لب��ل�د � او �و��� ة� �ب� ة� ا � م ة ج � ب ا ل��� ب � ب ة � ب ب � �� ���د � ا ��ر�م بص ا �ل�����و� �ة����ة�ر �م ب��� �و� �ل ب��ا �ب�ا � �ب��رك ا �ل��د�ةر ��ا ���ة� �لة��ل�� �ة�� �و�ل� ب���ل ���د ا �م� بة ب � ب � ��ر� �ل��لب��ا د ��ة�1. � ب � ب ب � � ب ة ة �ب ة با ا ب ة ا �س�ة� �� �� ا �ل��د � � � � � ��د �ة� � بو�����ده ���� �ر� او �و ��ط��ل�ع� ا �� ا د �و� حة��ً�د ا �ل��ر�م� �ب� ��ة� ا � �ة ة� ةر و م ب � � ة ة � � ب �ب ا ��س� �ب ب� ة �� � � ��ا ب �ب � � ��ة� ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� ا � ب���رب� �و� � ��ع� ا �ة� ا �ل�د�ةر �وك�� � �ة� ا �ل�د�ةر � ب���ل ل��ص �م� ا ب�����د � �لة��ل� ا �ةع ر ج ة �ب �� �� � �ب ا ����ع ا ب� ل�ة� ��ا ب � ا با ب ا ا ب�ة ا ط�ع�م�� �م ب ب��د ا �ب�ا � �م ب � � � ل � ح � � � � � � ا ا � ك ك ل � � � � د � � � � � � � � � � �� م � � ك ك ة ح�ة�� � كب���ة ر �ة� ر ة ر و � ب � ة� و وص ص ة ة� ة � ��ا ب �� � � ة ب ب � �ب � ش � ب ة � ب �ش �� ب ا�ا�م�ا ء � ا �ب ة ��س��� ع����ا �ب�ا �وك�� � ل� ب�ة��� ���ة ر �ة� � و �و��ص ا �ل��د�ةر ���ود��ة� �ل�� ��د ا �و�عب�ة��� �ل�� ��و� ب �� ا�ب ب ����ب �ل��ل����ا ب� ا �� �و�م�� ب���ل�م�ا �ا �ب� �م�ا � ب�� � ا � � �ا��ا ب ا � ة � �ب����ا � ة� ا � ب �� ك ة� ب ���م �ب� �ر�وم�ة� �� ك�� �ة� �ب� �ل��ر �ة� �و���� � ��ة� �عص ة ر ة ب ب�ل��ل��د �ة� �و ب��������. ة ّ � اب � ب � ا ب ة ا� ب ب �ب�ا ب� ة ب ا � ة � � �ب ب حب���� ا �� ��ل�ب�ة� �مص ��ط� �ة����� ا�م� او ���� �رد ���ة� ب�ل�ل���� � ا ���� بر�ة� �و���ة� ا �ل����ل� �م�� �ة� اب�ص � � ة ا� ب � � ب ب ��ا ب ة ا � ب ب ب � ا ب ة �ب ب ا ة ة ب ا � ة ب� ة � ة � ب��م� ع��ة� ����ل��ل�� ����ل ا ��ك �م� ��و �ة� ���ة� ��ه�م ا �� �ب ��عة�� �مص ����ل� �ل�� ا�م� او ���� ا �ل�دة�ص ك�� � �� او �� ������ةص أ 1ال��ص�ل� :ل�� ف���ا د �ي�.
46
46
٩،٣
١٠،٣
١١،٣
١٢،٣
Chapter Three
The priest bid us farewell and went to see his abbot. We remained at the
3.9
monastery that day, as we couldn’t find anyone to guide us on the roads. A Frankish man named Callimeri, born in Nicosia, heard we were in town and came by to offer his greetings to my master and to welcome him.40 My master was pleased by the arrival of this fellow, as he was a local who knew his way around. They sat and chatted. “Would you be kind enough to take me around the city tomorrow to see the sights?” asked my master. “It would be my pleasure,” Callimeri replied. My master took him by the arm and insisted he stay for dinner, which he did. Afterward, the khawājah asked him what his occupation was. “I’m a doctor,” he replied. “Are herbs to be found in your mountains?” the khawājah asked, showing him a book illustrated with various herbs that he was always on the lookout for in the mountains. “You can find them on a certain mountain, about a day’s journey away,” Callimeri replied. “There are some ancient buildings there—churches, monasteries, and settlements, all of them in ruins. If you’re eager to visit these places, I’ll go with you.” My master agreed, and advised him to hire a muleteer that night so they
3.10
could set off early in the morning. The next day, he sent for the supplies they needed, and enlisted a local fellow to work as a servant. My master directed me to remain at the monastery, since the priest had left it in our care. “It wouldn’t be right for us to leave the monastery untended,” he said. “We wouldn’t want anything to happen that might cause the priest any trouble.” So I alone had to stay behind in the monastery. After they left, I too went
3.11
out, to tour the city and see the sights, but I didn’t stray far so as not to get lost, and soon returned. There was an elderly man there. He was too old to move about anymore. The priest had entrusted him to our care, and asked us to share with him our lunch and dinner. He had a small house in the monastery courtyard. I took him some lunch, filled his tankard of water, and kept him company. He started to address me in Greek, but when he saw that I didn’t understand him he switched to Turkish and asked me where I was from. “I’m Aleppan, from the Maronite community,” I said. “Ah, a fellow Maronite! Welcome!” he responded in Arabic.
47
47
3.12
� � �ب ا � �������ل ا �لش��ا �ل ش�
ب �ب ب ��ل ب ا� ا��ا ب ة � � � ب ا ة ��ا ب ���ش �م ب ��م���م�ا ���ة �ع���ل�� � ��ل�ل�� ب� � �� �� ب ا وب ة ة و �ود �� ��ص �ة� ���د ه ا ب�ر�ةره �م� ك�� ��� �م�لك ا �لب��� د ��� �وك�� � �� او ا �� ر ص �ب ب ب ب ة ب �� � � � �ة ب ة �ب � ا �� ب �م� � � � ل�� ح � � �م � ل��رل ك �مب � � � ��ة��� ا ���ه�ا ������� � او ��ا �م�ل�ب���� �ع ب��د ����ل �ب�ا د ��ة� ���م ص م� ص �رو�ةص ة��� ص ا � ة ة � � �ب ح��ا ��ة� � او �ب�ا ���� ب��م�ا ب� ب ب� ���د �ة� ��� ّ ب�ل��ل�ة��م ة� ���ل ا � �ة ا � ب��ة��ة�� ���د �م ����ل د�ةر � او �ل�� ة ط��� �م �ل� ب���ل كة�� �م ة ة ة� � � ا � �ة ا �ب ّ � �ة��وه �ل�� بل ���د �م��. م� ب��� �ة ة ة � � �س�ة��م ة� �ع ب��ده ا �ل�� �كة ش����� � �و�ل�� �ك ش��سب��� ا ��� ��� ب �م�ا ا �م����ا ا � ��و�كة ة�� . �بك�����لة�ة��� � او � ة � حة�ب�ً�د ��م ة� ة ة ةص ة ب ب ���ط� ب ح ة� �� �ش��� ا �ة��ع ش����ا ه ب�ك����د �م�ا ا �ة��ع ش����� ة� � � ش ب ب ع���ة��ة��� �عب�ة�� ة� ���لة �صو�ة� �و� ��ر ة� ة و ب �مص �ع��ده �و ب�� ة� ة� � ب � � ب � � ا ة�� ش �و��شص ا ��ل��د�ةر �ب ار��ة ة� د � ب� �م بص ب�� م����� ��ب� � �حج� �������د ة� ��ة� ا �ل��د � ب� ا ��ة� � � ����ط�وج� 1ا �ل��د�ةر ة ة ج ج ب � ة ب ا� ا ب�لة ة �� ب ا �� �� � ب ة ة ب ب �س��ا �ه �رد ة� ا �عر�� �م�ا ��ة� �و�ا ا �ل ���ط�و � ٢ار��ة� � ��� ا �ة� ا �ر �� ��س��ا �ه � ار��ة ة� �و�م� ا � �ة ج ة ش � ب ب �ب ب � ب ب � ب �و��شص د ا ب��� ���ا �ب�� ���ا � ل��ا �ر�� �و� ب���ل ك� ح ب� ا�ا ك� �� م��ا � ���ل�م�ا �ا �ة� �����ا � ة��س��م��ة� ��ة� �ل����ا � � ة م � � � ة �ب ��ل � ب � �� ب � �� � ا �ر�و�م�ة� � �وب�ا �ل��ةر �ة��� � او �ب�ا �ام�ا �ا ��ة ة� �ر�� �� �و� �ة� ا ��ا �ل �ود ا ك ا �ر ب���ل �ل� �ا �ل ة���هة� ��ط �وة� ش��سة�� ة م م �ب ب� ب �� ة �م ب �� � � ا �� � ��ش �� � � ا ة�� ش ا �ب ا ا ة ا � � � ا �� � � ��� ب �ة � �حج ��ب ش �� م���ة�� ة� � رل� ص ا ل�د �بج �ة� � �و ص ا ل�دةر م���� �م� � ��ة� �و �ل� ب� ب� ا ل�دةر ب�ة ��د � ب ب � � � � � � � ة ا ��ة� �ب�ا ب� ا �ل��د�ةر �و����ا �ل ة� �م بص �ه�و ا ����ط�ا ���. ب ب�ب بة ب � ة �� ة � ب ة �ب ب ا � ش��سة ب ة � �ة�ا ك� ����ل ب� ا ��م ��ا � بو� ��ة� ب�ل��ل����ا � ا �ل��ر �ة�� �ب �� ��و�ل�� ا ��م ���دد �ة� �ب�ا � ك���ا � � �و��� � ة ��م��ة� �ةو�ل � ب � شج ش ج ب ة �� �ب ب � � ة ش �ب ة ة ة ش ح����ل�ك �م��ا ��� �م ب �ع ب��د ا �ل �ا � �� � ح�� ا �ك��م� ك� ا � ��� �م�ا ب�ل ����م � �بر �وج� ب ب�ة ب ب ر ص ع ة�� �ك ب ���ر� ���ة� ب� �� ة ج �ش ة ا �ة�� � � ا � � � � �� �� � �ة�� �ع�م ة� �ة�� � ك�� � �� ا ��ل ب��ا �� �ب��ل�م�ا ���م�ع ة� �م ب � � � � � � � � ك � � � � �� � �س��د ة� �ل� � ل � � ل � � ص ل م و ة ة وة ةر و ر رة ة بم � � ب ب ب � ة �� �ا ب ا �ب ة ا ب ب � ب � ب ا ا ة � �� او ��د �� ا �� � ب���ل �عر�� ب� � او �م�� د ��ل� �����ل � ك� م�� � �و�م� �عرك� �ب� � ��ل�� ا �ل��س�� �ه ص ة ة � ب � ب� ا �� � ��ا ب � ب ا � ا ��ل ش ة ا ��� ا �� �ب �ة � ة � ا ا � ��و ب�� �ود �رة��م .ا��� ار د ك���ل�م� ا �م��ل���� � او ��د ب�� �طره ك�� � ةرد د ب� ��س �� �و هة�� �ط �و �ة� د � م �� � ا ��لب��ا ب� �ب�ا �بل� �حج�. � ��ا ة � � ��ا ب ّٰ �� ��ا ب �� ��� � ��بل � �و ��ب� بد ��ل��ك ا�م �� ا �ب�� �م����� �� ك�� � ��و�ل�ة �� �رل �� � � � ب � � ب ل ل �� ك�� � ا لل� ا �����ل�� ��ل� ���ة� ة ة ة� ة ة ة � �ة ش ا � � � � ة � � ب � ا ب � ب� ا �� ب ة ا �� ب��� �م ب ب � � � �مص ����ل �د ة� ���� � �ة�ل� ك����� �ب� �ر�وم�ة� �ةو�م�ل���� �و�ل� �ا �ل �ة� ��د ب�� �طره ح�ة� ا � ر ص ا ب �ة ا ب ة � � بة � ة � ا� ا �ب ب ب حب� ا �ب�ا � �ل�� ب� � ��ر�� �����ا � �ةل��ل�ةع ش��ص �م��ه� ب�ل��ل���� � ا �ل���لة�� �ة� �ب �� ��و�ل�� �ة� ا ��م ����� ا �لب��ا ب� �و�م� ا �� ة ة ج ب � ب ا � ب �ب ب � ا ة ب ة � � ا � � ا �لب��ا ب� �ب����ا د ��� �ب�ا �� ك� ��رب�كة��� �و�ا � او �� مص رع�� �م� �� ا �م� ل��ل�� � ا ا � ��� ح ب� ود ك � ة ة� ب م ج ج ة بة � ة ة � � � ب ب ة ��ا �ل ���� ��ل�� � ����ب ا �ل � حب� ا �ب�ا �مة���ل� �م����� � � � �ل ا ��� � ة � ب � � �ل�� ب� � ���ا � ��و�ل�ة �� �و���� ا ��م ح ة� �� � �م� مع� م�� ����ل ك� م ة� ك ة��ة� ك ة ة ج أ أ 1ال��ص� � :ص حو ٢ .ال ص� :ا � ص� � حو . ل �� ل ل��� �� ح ح
48
48
١٣،٣
١٤،٣
١٥،٣
Chapter Three
“Are you a Maronite?” I asked. “Yes, I’m one of the last remaining descendants of the Maronites who lived on this island when it was under Venetian rule,” he said. “There used to be more than five hundred families here. Some of their descendants remain to this day, but they don’t make their presence known because they’re afraid of the heretic Greeks. I’ve taken refuge with this priest. He’s shown me charity, and provided me with a little food so I can live out my days. I worked at the monastery a long time, but I don’t have the strength for service anymore.” I stayed around to chat with him and raise his spirits till evening came,
3.13
when I left to cook some dinner. After I ate and brought him his food, I packed my pipe and went for a walk in the courtyard. Coming upon some stone steps, I climbed up to the terrace. When I reached the far end of it, I came to a parapet. Curious to know what was beyond, I peered over and saw a courtyard. In it were some women, along with a man who seemed to be the owner of the house. When he saw me, he began to curse in Greek and Turkish! I immediately turned away the moment I saw the women, even as the man continued to shout and curse, and I retreated downstairs to the monastery courtyard to resume my stroll. Suddenly, I heard someone hammering on the monastery door with a rock! I walked over to the door and asked who it was. “Open the door, you son of a bitch!” he replied in Turkish, cursing me.
3.14
“If you don’t open up, I’ll fetch one of the pasha’s magistrates. Then we’ll find out why you’re spying on people’s women!” “Please forgive me, my lord!” I called out, terrified. “I’m a stranger here, and only arrived yesterday. I didn’t know there were women behind that wall!” But the more I begged his pardon and tried to mollify him, the more he cursed and shouted and hammered on the door with the rock. It so happened that a Greek man was passing by at that time—a Catholic— whom God sent to save me from the nasty neighbor. He began to converse with the neighbor in Greek, sweet-talking and soothing him until he managed to send him away. After the man left, the Catholic fellow spoke to me in Italian. “Open up,” he said. “There’s no need to be afraid; I’m a friend. And I’ve gotten rid of that other man. He’s gone now.” Still terrified, I didn’t dare open the door. “Go on, open up,” he repeated. “Never fear, I’m a Catholic like you.”
49
49
3.15
� � �ب ا � �������ل ا �لش��ا �ل ش�
ب ً ً � � �ب ��ل � ب ���� ا ��ل �ا � ح�ة� د ب���ل �و �ة� ا ��ا �ل ا ���ل�ةع ة� ا �لب��ا ب� � بر��� �م بص ����ل �د �ة� �لة��ل�� ة�����ا �ود .ا ب��ة�را ل ب� ب� ة ا � ���ا �ب ��ا ب� ��ل�� ���د ة� ا ���ط��ل� ا �� ا ��ل��س ���ط� � � ��ل�� ا � � �ص� � ا ��ل ة ��س��ا �ه. ع ة� وج و �وج و ب و ة� ب ب � ة � ب ل�ا ب ب � � � � ا � � �ةكة��� � � � ا ���ل� �ب �� �ش�ا ��� ��ره �و� ش���ر�� ���لة��� � ك� �و�ة�� ���وة�ر ب� �� � � ع ة �� بر�ك بر �� �� لك ��ة� م� ��ة� ة� � � ة � ب ب � � ب � ب � ب ة ة � ا ب � ب � ب � � ��ر� ةر�م�� ب�ل��ل �ل� ب���ل ب����� ����ل �د �ة� �و�ل� �مص �مص ا ب���ل ��ة�ر��� �لة��ل� �ل�� ���� ������ل �ب� د � ة� � او �ل�د�ةر � ��� ب� � � ح�ة ة�ل� ���ط��ل� او ���� د�ةر�م ب �ع ب��د �ه� �ب ب �ً�� ب��ب�� ب� � �ش �� ا ب�ل � � �م�� � ب � � ��رل ك ��ة��� ك��ل � ل ح��د ه�م ة� ب ص م ر ��� �سة��ط� ة�� �و�� ل�ةص ���ل � ة � � � � � � � � � � ا ب �� � � ا �� � � ا �ب � ��ب �ل �ة �� ا ا �ًا �م�� ��ل ا ب � � � �� ا � د �ه �ل�� � ��د � �ه � � � � ا � � ل��ا �ة��و�ل�ة �� �� رو م� ة� �ل����� ب ة� ��و��و د ة�م� � �م� � و�ل� �ة� و�ل� م ة ل ة ب ب ��و م ل�لةم � ك ة م � ب ا �� � ب �م����� ة ب ب � ا ب ش ��ش � � � ب ل��� ب ة ��و�م�ا ب� �و�ل�� ب��ة�� ة� �م بص ب�لة �صو�ة���� �� �ة� مص ل� �و�ل���ةص � ا ح�� � ��ل �� �ل������ بة ب � �و�� او ب�ل ب��ا ����م� و ة م م �م ب �ا � � � ا � ش � ب �� � � � ب � ا �� � � � ب � � ��� �ب�� ا ����� ��م�ا ��� �ع ب��د ا � ��ا ���� � ل ��ل�ل�� ب� � � � ح ك� � ح�ة� لة� ح د � � � � ع � � م م � ك � ��س � � � � ل ل ل � ك � و � � و رص و ة ة ب ة ة م م م �� �و�ل� دة� بص. � ح��� �ة�� �����ل ة� ا ��ل��� ��ا �ب ��� � �� � �ل��ة��ا � ب � �ب ا �� ��� ب �ب��ل�م�ا �ا ��ة ة� �م ب��� ���� ا �ب�ا ��س��� � او�م � � � � ك � ةر و� � � ة ل ة ة ب و وم ب ة ل ب ة ة ةص ا �ب � ب ا ة ة �ب �ب�ا ة � � ب� ب � � �م�ا ة ب� ك� � ا � ا� �� ��� �م����ل��م� ب���ة��� ةل �� � � �� � ا �ل � � � ��� �رم و م���� �ة� و�ج و � ب�عة�� �ة� ك� � � ة��ل ة� رل �ل �د ة� ���ة� ة ة� ة �ب ا ��ل��ل�� � ��ةهة���ل ب� ب ب � ة ا �� ة ��� ة � � ة ا ��ل ا �م ب ��� � ا �ة��ب � ة � ا � ة �ة �س���م ة� �ة� ة �ل �وة �ة� ��د ��ل� �ة� ��لة ��ة� ود �ب ��س� ب�� ب� ص ب ��د م� ��ل� و � � � ب ة ة ����ا �. �ل��ل�ك ا �ل��لة���ل�� � ��و�ه�و� �و�م�ا ��د � ة� ا �ب�ا � �م بص � بر�ع�ة� ا �ة� ا �� � ب م م ج ب� ب ا� ب�� ��ا ���ط �� � ����ل�� �ب � �ا�م�ا ا ب ب ب� �ش ا � �ا�م�ا ا �ة� ب� � ب ا ط����ة� ا �ل���� � ا ب�� �ا � �ة� د �ل��ك ا �ل���� ب� ا�م�د ��و� � او ��د ب ر ة و ة� و و � ب � ة ب ب � حة ب � با � ��ا � ���ر���د لة ك�� ا � � �ا ��ة ة� �م ب��� ����ل ��م ب � � ب � � ة � ب � ب � �� �ل� �� ��طره �ة� ��د �ة� �م���� �ة� ح�� حة��ً�د �ط�لب�� م�� ا ل ك ب ة ة ب � ً ب � � ا �ة ب���رب� ���� ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� �ةكب���ل ا ��� ا ����ا �بر �بر ب���� �ب� ��ط��بلم�ة� ��بر ب� ح ب��ا �م بص ا �ل��د�ةر �م���ا. ة ج ة� ة ة ب �ب ا� ب �ب ع ��� �� � � ش ب ة � ��ب���ا ب� ا � �ب�� �ل ب��ا ���ش ا �م�ا ا ا ب ب � � � � � � � � � � ا � ا ا �ل �ل � ك � ل� �� � � � م�د م�د �د � � � � � � � � �س م ك ة �و��� � ة و� ة� �ة� �و �� ة و � ة ص ر � ر ب ةر � � ب � � ���ا ب� �و��ل�� �م�ا د �ب�� ��� �لة��� �و�ةكب��� كب� �سس� ا �ل���ك� ��� � ك� م��ا ب� �م��ة��م� �ب ار��ة ة� ب��ا �م� ��� ��ة� ا �لب�ب��ا �و� ����ة�ره ة ة ع ع � ع ب �� �ب ���ط� �ة ا �� ��ةه��� �م�ع�� ب�ك���ا ة��م�ا ة�ل�� �م�ل�� ��ا �م� �م�ع�� �م ب �ع � ���� �م ب ا ��ر ب��ا � � �و�ا ب� ا ب��ل � � � � � ل� � ل � � � م � � ة ر ة� ة ل ة ب و ص و ع رص ص م ب ��� �ب � ب ا ب� � ا �م�ع ة� ة ا � ب � ب � ب ا � � ب ب با �ش�� �ة � � ��� �م ا ب�لة���ص � او ��س�ود �ة� ��و ة� ك�ل� �و مص ب�� �ب�ة� ا �لب�� ب� ��ر�م�� �ل��ةص مص ا �ر�� �م ا �ل�ب�لة���ص بً � ب � � ب ب �� ���د �م�ا ��� �ب� ���طر��ص �و ب� ا � �� او � حب� ب� ا �لش��ا �ة� �م�ا ��ة� ب� ��و����ص ا �ة�� ���ا �م بص ���ا �م ا �ل�ب�لة�ب��ص ���ل�م�ا �ة�ا �م��ل ة� ة ب ب � ا ة ا�� ة ب � ب ب �ب م���ل�ب��� � ب��ه � ��� ���د ه ا ���ع�م� �ه ا� ك� حب� ة� �و����ا ��ل ة� د ��ل��ك ا ��ل ش����ا ب� �م�ا ���د ا ا�ا ك� م��ا � �ة�� ���د ا ب��ا �م� ة ة� ب شع ب ة ب ب ب � ة ة � � � ب � ة � ب ا ا ة � ب � � � ب � � � � � � � � � � � � �م�ص لة��و� ب�� �م� ����ل��ل�� كة ��� بة � د������ةص �و���د ا ��ة� ع �و مب���ة��� كة��� ����ل �م� �لة���ل �مص �م�ل� لة��� �و � ة �م ّ ب ا� � ب ب ا ا ب ا ب ب � م��ا ب ا �� ب� ًا �ب ة� ا ة ���ش�� ه �م�ع�� ه ��ب ا ��ل�ب��ا �ر�م �ع��د ا�م����ل�م��ةص �� ب�� ب���ة� �ب� � د ا ���ل ����ل � ك� � ة ��� �ة� �م� �لة���ل ك� ة ر ر ة� ب 50
50
١٦،٣
١٧،٣
١٨،٣
١٩،٣
Chapter Three
When I heard this, I opened the door right away to let him in and slammed it shut immediately, for fear that the short-tempered neighbor would return. My Catholic friend counseled me not to go up to the roof or near the wall. “If you go back a second time and peep in on him, he’ll shoot you,” the
3.16
man said. “That’s what he swore he’d do. And don’t think that this is all about him jealously guarding his wives from your sight! No, it’s because he hates the priest and the monastery like the very Devil. The Greeks, you see, are working like mad to abolish the monastery, because they’re afraid it’ll draw their children to the Roman Catholic faith. They always say, ‘Better Muslims than Romans!’ There isn’t a family here that doesn’t have a Muslim or two in it, sometimes even three. They marry their girls off to the janissaries, you know. That way, they’re protected from the authorities. They have no honor! And no religion either.”41 Struck by the man’s friendly demeanor, I begged him to visit me each day
3.17
until my master returned. He politely consented and said goodnight. Left alone, I was terrified that my irate neighbor would set upon me in the night and kill me. I retreated to my cell, locked and bolted the door, and spent the whole night lying awake in fear. When morning came, the young man came by for a visit. He was kind
3.18
enough to keep me company and chat with me to take my mind off my predicament, and his affectionate manner led me to ask if he’d be willing to take me out to see the city before I traveled away. He agreed, and we left the monastery together. As he guided me through the streets, I could see that Nicosia was a grand city but that most of its buildings were in ruins. We passed by a vast open space surrounding a tall mosque with broad columns, a towering minaret, and a large, magnificent dome. Around the base of the dome were statues of angels in white marble. The portal of the mosque was made of precious white and black marble, and alongside it were two statues carved from white marble. One was Saint Peter and the second—also in white marble—was Saint Paul. I contemplated the splendid building in amazement.42 “What is this place?” I asked the young man. “A mosque.” “But how can it be a mosque, with statues of angels and saints?” I asked him. “That’s forbidden to the Muslims.”
51
51
3.19
� � �ب ا � �������ل ا �لش��ا �ل ش�
� � ة ����� ��ب ���� ب �� ل�� �ب�ة������� �����ا ا �لب��� ب�� ا ب� �ا د � او ة� ش��سة���ل�و���ا ب��ة��ة���ل بر� �� او �ب�ا �ب���� ة ب� �ر �� او ا � ك ل��ا �م ش��� ب�� � � � � �وك��� � ب ص ة م ب ة � ����ل���ا �و�ل�� ب���ل ����ل ����� ب� ا �ب ��ة ��و��ه ��لة��ل�� ب�رب� ك� ك� ����ل���ا. ب م ب ً ب � �ب �� �ب�ا �ب��د �و� ��ب� ا ��لب���ل��د �ب ا �� ة� ��ب� ا ��ل��م�ة��ا ة��ا ة� �ب����ا ب��ة���س��� او ب��� �وك�� ���ل � او � ���ده ر ا ��ة�را ا ��د �ة� �و� ر ة رة ة بة ة ب � اب � ة ة �� ش ب ش �ة ا � ا ب ة ب ا ��بل � ةبا ��سة� ب�����م�ا �ة� � بو���� ب� ����م� �� ب� �و�ع�ة ��� �وك���ل ��م�ع � �وكب�� ����� ��� �مص ��ر � ب�و����� د �ة� ��لة��� �ب� ��� ��ة � �ش � �����س�� ا ��ل ب ب ب �� �ب ا �ل ب�����د � د ا � ه ����ة�س� ��� ب ا ��ل� �� ة� � ك� ����� � ��مم��ل�� �� �� ����ل� ح�� ا ��ب� ب � �� ���ر�ةر � بو���� ب� �ة� ب ص ر� � ب ة �و ةر ب ب ةع ب ةص بة و و � �م م ةبة و م �� ش �ب � ب ب � ة ا �ب �ل ا ا ة ب ا ا�امب ب ا � �ة �ل ا � � ة ش ا � ب� �ة � ة �� � ب �� ا �و ب��ا ����� ك���م� مص ��ة ر ��س�� � � �م� � ��ة� ���د �� ��ر ���ة���ل �ل�������� م ���ل� ل�د �ل�ك م ب ب �� � ب � � � � �ب � ش ا � �ب �ب ��ا ب ح ب� ��ا ب� ش��� �بك ة� ��� � ��م�� ���ا � � � � � ا � � � � � � ا � � � � � م د د د � � ك � ب � ل ل � ك � � �ة� ةر ا �ل���� ب� ا ة� � �هة� ةص ل م ل ك ر ب �ل ة� و ة� ب ر ب ����ة� � � ش �ب ب � � ب � ب � ب ح��ا �و�ل�� ا ���ة ش����ا � ��ا �ل����� ب � ا �� �ة�ا ا �م�ا � ��سو�� ا �ل��� ب ب���د �ر��م��� � ك ةص ا ���و ب�� م�� � �وه ب�����ة�ر ا �ة ة م ب ةص �ة� �ل � م م ة ة �� �ب � � ا � ة � � ب � �ب � ب � �س�ةع ة� � او � ك� ا ب��ل ل��ب ك� ��ا �ة�� � او � ار � ة��� � � � �� ة� � ب � ح�ة���لك ا � ا �ل�د ة� �����ل�� ����ل �د ة� �م� �ه�و ���د ك� �ص ةج ة� � � ب� ب � �ب� � � ب� ة ���� �ل��لب��ا د ��ة� �و�ل��د �ل��ك ا �ل��د�ةر. ح��� ا ب���ل ا �ب��ك ��ط��ل�ع ة� ����� � ةر��م�� ب�ل��ل �م بص ا ب���ل ب��� مص ب � ة � �� ب ب ا�ا� �ل ب � � ب ب � �ة ا �� ب ب ب �ص ا ��ا ب� ��ب����ا �ب����د ة� ����ا �لة��� ك�ة��� ا � م���� �م��ةص ا �ل�دة�ص �ه � ����� ةص ��ة� ����ل �م�دة�ل ب��� �ب�ة�ر ب� � ة ب و ب م � ��ب� ب � ��ب ا ��ل ش��س� ا � ا ��ل�� ب ة��ا ب��ا ��ا � ب� ��ا �ب�� �م�ا ب � �ب�� ب �م ب �� ا ��بل ��ا � ا ��ل���ل��د ��ل����� � ب��ا � ��ل ��بل بلو ح ك� م ب ��ر �و��م ا رةر ة� و �� و � ب ب �ة� ب � �م �وةص ص � � ب� � � � �ب � �ب � ب � ��� �ل�� ب� ا � ة � �م�ا �ل ا�ام�ة�ر�ة� ا �ل��د �ة� ���ل ���ا � ة���� ��ط�وه � او �لب��ل��د ��� ��ره �س�ة��ا � د �ل��ك ا�ام�ة�ر�ة� ا �ل�د �ة� ك ة� م م ا � � ب ب� ة �ب �� ب �� ا ب � ا � ب �ب �ب ب � � ا ا� � � ا �� �ة � ب ا � � ب � ا � ا ب � � � � م � � ���م �ع��ص د �ل�ك م�ة ر ة� ���دة �م و���د ا ل�د ة� و بح ب� � �و �ل�� رب��� �ل �ا ل ب�لة�� �د و � �ش ب � ب� �ب ك� ���ة�ر �م بص ا ����ل ����ل ب� بر�ره �ب�ا �ب���� �ة��ه�� �� او �م بص ��ود ا ����طل��� ا �ل��د �ة� ���ا�ةر���ل ��� . ة� ب ة م م ً م ة ة ة ة� � � � � شا �ب � � ب بة ��ب��ا �م بص ا �ل��د �و�ه �و� ب� ��ه ب��ا ا ���� ا �ل��د�ةر � او � � �س���م �ل�ل ا �ل�ل��ل�� � �� �� � ا ��ة�را ا �ل � �ة ة � ك ة و �ة� ة �وم � ���ا ب� �م���� �و ب��ا ب� �� ا �م����� �م ب �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل ا ب��ا �م����ل��م �و بد ��ل��ك ا ��ل � �ة�� ا ��ل�� بد �ة� ك� ح�� ح ش����ا ة� ش��ص ا�ام�ص�و�ه �ك و م ص ة� ب �ة � � بم � ة �� �� �ا ا� ب � � ا � �ب � ّ �ب ب� ا � � � ب ب � ب � � � ل ل�� ب� ا�م�د ��و� .حة��ً�د ا � ك ��ة� ا � ل�� ح��ة�� ا �ة� ا � �وا ب�� �ب� �ل�د ة� ب�ر ة� ���� �ة� عة�� ب� مص د �ل�ك ة �ب ��ل ا � ��ة �ة � ب �� �� � ا � ة � ب ��ر�ب�ا ب���ل�م�ا ���م� �م����ل��م �مب��� ����ل ك�� �ك�� د �� ا �رد � �� ب� �و �ة� ا�� �ل ك�� ب� � ك م�� �صو ب� ح��د �ب�ا ���� ب� ل � � م ة ة� ة م ع� �ة � ب�� � � ا ب � �ب ��ل ا � � � � ب � ب ة� � ا ب حة ا �� ا �� ��ةهب � � � � � � � � ا ا � ا � � ع � � م �ده ه �� � � � � � � � د � � � � � � � � � �� � م ل ل � ص ب � � � � ل � � � ر ةر و � � ة� ب ر و و ل ة� ص ر ب ة � � � ب ب ب ة � � ب � � ة � ��� د �ل��ك ا � ب��� ا�ام�د ��� � �ل��ل��ا �ش���� � �و���ة���ه �م ب��� � ة� ش��سةم �� ح�� ة�لة��ا د ب� ��ة�ره �و�ل� ة�����ود ا � ���د و ب ر ل �� ة� ة ة ة م � � � � ا � ةل�بة� �ر�ه� ����� ا �ل�د�ةر �و�ل� ����� ا �لب�� د ��ة�. �ة م ة � ا ا��ة � � ب � ا �ب �� ب� حة � ���� � ا �� � ب ة � ا� ة � � � � ا � ا � � � � � ا � ك ا م� � ��ره ه م ح � � �رة� د ل�ك ر ب ��ل ل�د ة� ���� ر ���� و ع�ط� �سم � �صو ب� �ة� ة ��و ل� ة� � و م �ل� � � � ب ب ب ب ب �ة � � ة ة ب � �� د �ل��ك ا �ل �� ��� ا�ام�ل�� ��� �و ��� د �ل��ك ا ���و�ك ة� � �وا ب��� �ك حب� ا � ��هب�� ح��ة�� �و�عر�� �م���ص�ود ا �� ر ر ة ة م 52
52
٢٠،٣
٢١،٣
٢٢،٣
٢٣،٣
Chapter Three
“There are many more statues inside the building, which are part of the structure itself,” he said. “If they wanted to remove them, they’d have to destroy the whole church. So they’ve left them in place to prevent the whole thing from collapsing.” We left and he took me on a tour of the town. I saw women selling wine in
3.20
the streets, each with a wineskin in front of her. They extolled the wine they were hawking as delicious and well-aged. A draft cost a single ʿuthmānī. Some women sold pork, and one had loaded a wineskin onto a donkey, and would go around to people’s houses, selling it. None wore veils, so all had their faces exposed.43 “What about all that talk from the fellow who scolded me for spying on his women?” I said to the young man, when I saw such immodesty on display. “Just look at all their women, shamelessly exposing their faces! And sitting in the street in front of all the passersby!” “You’re right,” he said, “but as I explained before, what that bully did had nothing to do with you looking at his wives. It was because of his hatred for the priest and the monastery.” “Why do the Muslims who live in this city allow people to sell wine and
3.21
pork in the streets?” “The people have permission from the governors of the country, so they can pay the mīrī tax they owe,” the man explained. “They continue to pay the same tax they did when the country was prosperous. It’s ruined now, and yet the governors continue to levy the same old tax. These oppressive conditions are worsening, which is why so many on the island have fled.”44 We finished the tour and returned to the monastery, where I spent the
3.22
night. The next day, my master arrived with the doctor who’d accompanied him on his trip. They’d brought back some of the herbs that were illustrated in my master’s book. I told the khawājah about what had happened with the nasty man during his absence. When he heard the story, he was furious and immediately dashed off a letter to the consul, informing him of the situation and asking him to send a dragoman right away so that he could lodge a complaint with the pasha, seeking restitution against that man. His intention was to make an example out of him so people would stop threatening the monastery and the priest. He hired the muleteer they’d taken on their excursion to the mountain and gave him the letter to deliver to His Excellency the consul in Larnaca. But then
53
53
3.23
� � �ب ا � �������ل ا �لش��ا �ل ش�
� ب � � � � ب � � ب� � � � � � ب ���� ب �ة � ب � ب � ���ده �ع ب ةل �� ��مة���ل ����ل ا �ل���ر ا �ل�د �ة� �ب�ةر�ة��د ة����ل� �ل�� ب ة �بم �����ا � �ة�� � م�� � ��ر� �ل��لب��ا د ��ة� ص ب � ج� ش �م��� ا ��� ��ا �ا�م��لة ا � ة ا � ب ب �ب ة � � ا� ب � ا �� � � �و�ل�ل�د�ةر �مص ا �ر�و�م ا � ���� ������ةص �ة� �ل�لك ا�م�دة�ل��� � او �لب�� د ��ة� �م� �ه�و �� ة��ص � �م �ل ب �� � � � �س�ة� �� ��ب� ���� د�ةر � �و�ل�� �ة �� � �ب��ل�م�ا ���م� ا ��بل � او�ام�ل�� �����ب��� � �و�ا �����د ا �ة�ا � او �ل�� �م�ا ك� �وا ب��� ���ا ب� ب�لة��ة��د � ة�� ة � �� و ة ل ة ب م ع م ا��ة �م ب��� ��� ك�� ��ل�� � �ة�ب���ة�ر ة� �ب�ة��ة��� �و� ب� �� ا� ك م�� �صو ب� . �ل م ع ب � ب � � او � ة � �س�ة��م ب��ا ��� ا ��ل��د�ةر ا ��� ا ب� ا ب��ا ا �لب��ا د ��ة� �ك�����ل�م ب��ا ه د�ةره �و�ود �ع ب��ا ه �و����ا �ب �بر�ا ا ��� ا�ام�ل�� ��� ة ة ة ب �ة � بب ب � �� � ة ا �� ��ةهب �ب ا � ة �ة ب ا � ب ا ة ���ا ��رك�� ب� �ر�����ا �و�ة� �م����ا �ر ا �ة� �م�دة�ل�� ��ر � ا ة� ب�ة��� �� �س���م�� ا �ة� ���ةص �م� ��� ة � � ب ب ب � � �� ة �ب��د ��� �ب�ا � ة ا � ك� �� ���ج�. ���دة� بص ا �ر� او � ا ��ة� �ب�ل��د �س� �سم � �ر�ل ب��ا �و����ا � �بر�ا ��ة� د �ل��ك ا�ا��رك� ب� ��ا � �س� �ة ج ة
54
54
٢٤،٣
Chapter Three
the doctor came forward and, having learned of my master’s intentions, tried to dissuade him from following through with the whole affair, as it would just lead to trouble for the priest and the monastery at the hands of the Greeks living in the city. It was only through flattery, civility, and charity that the priest had managed to live among these people. Otherwise, he wouldn’t have lasted a single day in the monastery! When the khawājah heard this, he changed his mind and took back the letter. We stayed at the monastery until the priest returned, at which time we returned it to his care, bid him farewell, and traveled back to the home of the consul in Larnaca, where we remained until a French ship bound for Alexandria was ready to depart. We booked passage, boarded the ship, and set sail for Egypt.
55
55
3.24
� � ا � ب�������ل ا � ار ��� بع �ب� �� ب� ب ا � �حج �� ��ل ب��ا �� � �م�ا � � � � � � ة � ب م�حج��� ا ة� ب�لدب س� ر ةو ب � ة ش �� ��سه � ب � ار � ��� ب ح��� 1 1707 ة� � � رة � ب � � ب � � �س���ل ة� ا�ام�ل�� ��� �و�����د �ة ��و� �و����ل ب��ا ا ���� ا � ك� �� ��ط��ل�ع�بح�ا �م بص ا � ك� �س���ل ة� �ب�ا ب��ا ا � ��ة� ��هة� ��ة� ب� بر�ره ة ب ة ة م � ب ة �س�� � ب �ب ة �ة� ��� ب ا �� �ة �� ا ب � ة �م ب �ةل�� � ا � � � � ة�ب��ر��ص �بر����� ا�ا��رك� � �� ب� �ه ب��ا ك �وك� � ك ك �� ه � � � س ل � � � ط ل � ���ا � ��� ���د ب�ط � ة �و �� ص ك �ل � � و ر� ة ة � � �� � � ب �ب ة � � �� � ا �� � � ب � ل� ب�� � � ب ا ا �� ب �ب ة ح��ا ��ل ب�ل���ل��� ه � ����ب���ا ل ل � � ا ا � ا � �ل ل � ��� ٢رك� و ���ل لك �ل� � �ة� �ل�لك بحب�� ل ��و ب � �ود ب �صو�� بة ربج م � ب ب ة � و بوة ب � ب � � ب �ا� � ب � ب � � �ة���� ا�ا�م�ة�ر�� �� ��ط��ل�ه ب��ا ا ���� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل��� ك� �س���ل�� �اة�ل ب��ا ���ا � ار ب� �و م� ��و ب � �ود �مص ا �ل�� او د �م ��ة�ر ���ة� � ص ة ة ب �ة ا� � � � ا � ة � ة � � ب � ب � ب � ب �ة � ب �ب ا �� ا�م�ة ر ة� �و ب �م� ع�� �و��لة���ل مص ا � ����ل���� ةص ا �ل��دة� بص ب�لة���ل��� او ا � بر�ك ة� � او � ��� ��ط ار �. ب � � � � � ب ا ا � ا � �� ح�ب��د ���ط��ل� �� ا ا ��بل� ة ����د � او �م ب بد ��ل��ك ا ب�ل ��م� حب���ل ا �ة� ���ةص ا�م���� ب�� ب� �� او �ل�ل��رك� ب� �م� � و � �رة�� ة�ل�� ة �ة ً ص � � � ب ب ب ة ة � ��ر ة� ا �ب�ا ا � ب����ة��ة�ر ا ���و�س��� ��� ���د ا �ش�ل�� ش� � �و��ص �م��ر�ة� �و�ا ��ص �ب ���ر�م�هة�صو�ل�ة� بص �ب�ا �ر����ا ��ص ��� م ة� ب ش � �ة ا �� ب������ ك�� ���د �م ب ا ��بل� �و ب�� . �ة ��ب� ا �ب���� �ب�ة������ة� � �ر�� حة�ب�ً�د � او � ���ل� او �م�ا �ل ا � ���ر�� ب� �و���د ا ����ة� �م�ا بلة�ب��� �ل ص ة ة م � � � � � ب ب ب �� ��ا ب� �ل��� ا � ��د ���� ��ا � ���� �م�� با � او �لب ��ة� �م�ا ����� ا � ط�� ط�� ��ا �ب����م �� �بر �� او �م بص ا ����طل��� �وة�ر �� او ب� ��و�ش�س��م� ا ��� ة ب ل ر ر م م ب ش ب ب ب ة ح��ا �� � � �� �� �� ح ب��ا ب � د ا ش��� � ب ��ب ��� � � �� ة حب��ا �ل �وك�� ة� �ر�ة� ��ة� ����ل ب� ب ل و و ب �ود ك���ة�ر �م بص �م�� ار � �وب���ر �و� �ةر رةص ة� �ل ب ب � �س��ة� ا ���� ب ب�ك � ب �� � � ب �� � � �ا �ب ا � ة � ب ���ر�و�س��� �ب�ة��� ة ة�� ع� ب� � ���د �ة��� ������� �و�م�ا ���ا � �ك�� ة���م �س� ��ة� �س� و م �ة� ةر ة� �م م م �ة ���بد ا ا ��ل�� �م ب �ة��ل��ة ��م � ��� حب�ةس��� �ل��ل��ر�� ب�. ص م ة � ً � � ب � ب ب ب � ب ب � ب ة �س���ل ة� ��م�ا �ص� � ���ل�م�ا ا با ب ب ا ا ة ة ا ا ��ة�را ب�����د �م� �و�� �س� ا � ��هب� ��ط� � ا �ر�ك� ���� � �ر� �مص �ه�� ك ا ��ة� ا � ك� ة و � � � �ع ب � � ب � ��� ��ط��ل�ه ب��ا ا ��� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل��� ك� �و����ل ب��ا �و������ ا�ا��رك� ���ا ا � او د � �ود �ك �س���ل�� � ٣و��هة� ��� ��ره ا ��� �� � ب ة� و ب ة ة ة � م ا ��بل � � ب ة ب � ا ا ��بل ب� ة ب ش ا �ب �� �ش� ا� � ب � � ل � � � � � � � ب � � � � � �� � ه ا � � � � � ع ك ل � �ود ��د � ل� ب�ةس � بو�لة�� �و ش���ر�ة� و �ل �ة� �م�و ب � ع ه�و ��ر�ل�� ك��ط� � ��ر �م���� عرو ص و ��ر م ع أ أ ش ي �ف ف� م�� ٢ .ال��ص� � :م� ف ٣ .ال��ص� :ال� ��س ك� ��� ي���ه. ل س 1ورد :ا �ل���ا ري� يى ا �ل����ا � س ل
56
56
١،٤
٢،٤
٣،٤
Chapter Four
Our Voyage to Egypt and What Happened to Us in the Month of June 170745
A day after leaving Larnaca, we arrived at the port of Paphos, which is also on
4.1
the island of Cyprus. The ship laid anchor there, as the captain aimed to load the ship with bitumen and tar from the port. There was a bitumen deposit in the mountains, which the mountain folk would gather and sell, using the revenue to pay the mīrī tax. We went ashore and found the port in ruins. There was no one to be seen except for the tax official and his men, and a few peasants harvesting the bitumen and tar. The sailors went off to hunt in the mountains, and returned to the ship in the
4.2
evening with three goats and a cow, which they’d shot with a rifle. I rebuked them for doing this. Hunting other people’s livestock was wrong; how could they do that? In response, one of the sailors insisted that the goats and cow didn’t belong to anyone, as their owners had left them in the mountains when they had fled their oppressors. Many goats, cows, and pigs had been abandoned, and the grapes remained on the vines year after year, with no one around to harvest them. All because of how badly they’d been treated by their own neighbors.46 Once the captain had loaded the bitumen, we set off for the port of Limassol. We arrived, laid anchor, and went ashore. We found a prosperous port city, full of people and commerce. The main thing for sale was wine, five piasters for a qinṭār.47 They stored the wine in cisterns, each of which held twenty qinṭārs or more. This abundance was on account of the many vineyards in the
57
57
4.3
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
ب ا � ب ب �ش ة � ���ش ة �� �وا ���� �وك�� �ر�و� ل�� ���ل ��ا ����ل �ب�ة����م� ع���ر� بص �كب� ��ط�ا � � او ��ود �و���د ا �م بص �� ره ا � ��ب��� ��ة� �� ل �� ��ة م ة ع ا � ة �ب ح��ا ����� �ب�ا �ة��س� �ة� ا �� ��ةه� ���ط�ا ب� �م ب ��� ب��� ب��م����� ب ��� �ب�� � ة ة � ا ةص �ب��و ب� � � � حة��� �وك��ل و ب ب حة��� �ب�����م� �كب� ��ط� � � � ب ب و ص ل ر ��ة� �ة م ع ب � � با �ب � ب� ح��� ب ب� �ب ب �� ��ة ب�ع � �� � ح�ة� �ة�ب��ة����� ��ة� ا � ك �س����د ��ة�� �و�م��� �ب�ة�ر�وج� ا ��ة� ���ل ب� �و �مك�� د ��ر�� ا � �� ��و ب�ة م��� رو ص ة ��ر. �ب�ل��د �س� ا ب � ا ا� �ة � ة ة ا � ة � ا ب � � ب �ب � � � � ب با ب� س� كب����د �م� ��ل��ص �م�� �س او � � او � ��و�� �س� ��� ة ��� ا � ��هب� ��ط� � �ل�ل��م��ر �ة� ا �و�ل ة�ج ا �ل�د �ة� ب��ة���� �� ب ب � � �� � ب ب � ����ا �عة��� ب ح ب ب��ة ش ��� ��بم�ا ا �ل ب��ا م����ا �� ةص �م بص ا ��ل��لة���ل �و� ط ا�ا��رك� � � �ل��ل�� بم��ر ����ب �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل��لة���ل�� ��ة� � �� � ح� � � � �ة ب ص � � ة م ةة ج ً � � � ا ��ل�� � ب��� ��� ة�� ��ب� ا ��بل� �ر � او ب��ا ا ���� ��طر�ب� ا�ا��رك� �� ب� �و�ه�و �ل�� �ب��ب� ��مة����� ��� ���ا �م�� .ا ب��ة�را ة ل م ة ة� ة ا � ب ا ب � ة � ا ب �بب � � ة � ا ب � ة � ب ب ا ا ب � ��لب���� ��مة����� �و�ة�����ر �و�رب ا ��� �ع��د �� �و��� � ة����� �ل�� �عص ا � ��هب� ��ط� � �رب ا � ��هب� ��ط� � ا �لة��� ة ص ج ج � ا �� � ا ب ب ة � ش ب ا ة ة ب �و����ا �ل�� �مص ل���و� � او ��� �ه�و �� ا د ك� . حة��ً�د ا ����م� ����� � ب���لة��� �و��� � ة�ل �صو�����ل لة�� �ب� � ر ةص ة ة � � �� � ب � ه �م ب ا ب �ة ا�ا� � � ب���ة��� � � � � ب ة �ة�ا ب���ده �م���� ا ��ة� ا � ك ���س��ر ص �� م�ة ر ة� ل� �ل� �س��ب��د ��ة�� ��ا ب��ا �ب�� ا � ��هب� ��ط�ا � ����ل �م���ك � � � ب ا ا ب ب � ب� �ة � � � ة � ا ب ا �لة �ب ا ب � ب ا �ة � ب � ب � ا � ا � � � �م ��� ا � �ه � � �� ك � ���� �ب�ا � �ل�� �ب�� بر�ل ا � ���د �ة� � ة �س��د ة� و � � بر� � �� ل� � ب��ط� � م� ب �ر� ب� � ��لة��� ة��د ك ة� بة � �ب � �ب ب �� ب ة ب بة � �� � �ل��ل��رك� ب� ب��ب���ة�ر لة���و� �م���� �� � ���س��ره �م بص ا ��� ا�ام�ة�ر�ة� ���ل�� ����ه ������ل�� ب�����د ا �ل��د �ة� ب�لة���ر�� ك�ة ��� م � ب ب � ب�� ك �م��ب��� ا � ا ب���د ك ��ة� ��رك����ة�. ة ة ب � � � ا ��ل� � ب � � � او �� ار �بل�� �ر�� �ب�ا ب� �ة�ب� بر����وه ��ب� ا �� ��ة��ا � ب� �و�ر���وه ��ب� ا �ل��� ك� �س���ل�� �ب��ل�م�ا �م��س�� ه � ��� ح�ة� �ة�� بر���وه ة ة ة �و ب رة ة ة � ب � ب حة �ب ش ب � ة ب �با� ��م��� ب� � � ب ا � �ة �� ا ب �ب �ة �ة � � � �ل ��ة� ا � ��ة��ا � ب� �����ا � ة�لب� �� �� �ةو�ل��د ���ل ��لة��� �ة� ع كة�� ع��د �هب��ط� � ر� �ل ب� م�� ��مة� ة �ة � � ب � � ب ة � � ب ب ���لة��� � او ��س��م بص ا � ��ةهب� ��ط�ا � �ب�ا � �ة�ا ب���ده �م���� ب��ا �ل�� بر� ا � ��ةهب� ��ط�ا � �ل�� ب���ل ب��ا ��طر�م����ل��م� �ب�ا � �ة�ا ب���ده م ة � ��� �ة ا �ةك ب � � �ل���� � �م ب � ا � ا ��ل� � � � �ل���� � �ش �ب ش � � ش � ا ب � � �م �م���� � � ل ل � � � � � � �� �� � � ج ب رة ةو ب ل��ص ���ر ��ط ��لة��� ���ر ��ط �ب� � ة ل ��و د �� ةو ب ص �وةب ر ب � � � � �ب ب��� ا ��ر ب��� �ب� ب�د ��ل��ك ا ��ل ش��� ���ط �ب���ب ا ��ل ��ا ��ل ���ل�ة�� او د �ةك ب��� � � �ل ���� ح�ة� �ل�� ة�لب���ر�ب� ا �ب�� �� ��رل �� ل �� ر ة� ر ة� بو رة�ط ة ةة � ا � �ش�� � ��ل����س ه �ش�م�� � � ب�ل ����� � ا � ة � ب � �� ش ب �س او ���� � او �ع ���ط�وه ا ��بل� �س�ة��ا �م ��ة� ا�ا��رك� ب� ج � و ب �و ر بو رة�ط و � �رة�� ب������ص ��وةب �و� � ب � ��� ة ب� �م� ا ��بل� ���د � . ر م ع ة �ب � �ب � ب ا �� ا� ب ا �ب � �ة ة � �����د � � �� ب ��� ا ا �� ا �بك ا ب �ب ا ة ا ���دة� بص �مة�ب��� ا � ك م �س����د ��ة� ��و���ل�� ا ة� ا�ةم��� �ة� ا ب����� � � � � � � �� � ه � � ر � بو ة �و ةص ط ب� � �و ب � � ب ب ب � � ة � ب ب � ة ��ش ب � ب� ��� د �ل��ك ا ��� �ك� � � �س���ل�� � ع���ر� بص ����ا ��� �و�ا�م�ا �د �ب�ا �ب��د ���ل ا �� ا �ل�� ك� و و � �� ���� �مص ر ة ة ة ج ة ج � � � � ب ب � � ة ة � ة ب ب ب حة ب � �ل� ش ش � �و ا ��� ا �بل� �� �ا � � ب ا � � �ر � او ��س����م ب��ا ��ب� ��رب� �و����ط�� �ة� ا ب�را � ��ة� �ع���ر �ة ��و�م �ة� ا �لب� ر � �ل� ر م�� �ة� ا �رب �� ة � � ا �ة�ا �ب�ا �� ������ �م ب ا ��بل� �ر ب��د ب���ل ب��ا ��ل�ل�� � ك� �س���ل�� �ب�ا �ل����ل�� �م��. ةج ة ب ص 58
58
٤،٤
٥،٤
٦،٤
Chapter Four
mountains. The captain loaded fifty casks of wine—each the size of an Aleppan qinṭār, costing, as I said, five piasters—to sell in Alexandria. From there, the wine would find its way to the rest of Egypt. After the loading was complete, the captain prepared to sail with the
4.4
first favorable wind. That evening, two hours after nightfall, we were strolling along the deck of the ship when we spotted a man swimming in the sea! He approached the side of the ship with his tunic wrapped around his head. As he climbed aboard, he put it on, covering himself up, and came over to us. He asked to see the captain. “Who are you? What’s your business here?” the captain demanded as he strode toward the man. The fellow threw himself at the captain’s feet and begged to be taken to Alexandria. “Where are your travel papers?” the captain asked. “I don’t have any travel papers,” said the man. “I’m on the run from the tax official.” “You know I’m not allowed to let you board without clearance from the tax office, don’t you?” the captain asked. “Yes.” “Well then, how am I supposed to let you onto my ship?” He ordered the sailors to put the man into a rowboat and drop him off at
4.5
the port. When the sailors seized him he began to weep, imploring us to intercede on his behalf with the captain. My master took pity on him and prevailed on the captain to bring him along. Out of respect for my master’s wishes, the captain was bound to take the man, but on condition that they shave the man’s beard, dress him in sailor’s clothes, and give him a wig and a hat so that he wouldn’t be recognized as a Greek. The man agreed to the terms, so they shaved his beard and mustache on the spot. The sailors gave him threadbare clothes, a wig, and a cap, and he stayed on the ship, working alongside the sailors. After two days, fair winds began to blow and we sailed for the port of Alexandria, reaching it in twenty-four hours. Just as we were about to enter the harbor, though, a gale blew out from the land, and we had to retreat to sea. Twelve days of tacking later, a favorable wind blew out from the sea and we managed to enter the harbor safely.
59
59
4.6
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
� ب �� �ة � ب ا �� � ة ا �� ��ةهب ب ا �ة � � ة ة �و ب�ر ب� ��ر�� ���� ح ب��ا �م بص ا�ا��رك� ب� �و �� ح ب� ا � ��هب�� ح��� ا ة� ب�ة��� �� ��ر ��ة� �م����ل��م� ���و�ة� ب � ر و ة ح ب��ا � �ه �ص ا ��ل ب��ا ا � ب�� � بم�� � �ش���ا ة� � �ب ��ة���ل ب��ا ���ش�ة�ر � او �� ا ��بل ��� �و ب� ���دا � �ب�ا ب� �ةر �و�� ا �� �ل � ك� حة ب� �� او �� و �واة ب� و ة و و ص رو ر �و ل� ��رك ب ة م ةة ب � ب ا �ة �ة ب �� ��� ا �� �� ����ل�م�ا ��ل ب��ا �م ب ا ��ل ك� ل� �� ���ر ك �ش � ��مب� ���ل �واةب� ب��ب���ة�ر ا � لة ك ��ر ب���� �ة� ���� � او ��س����م ب��ا ��ة� ب��ة�� ة� ا � ��هب�� �� ة� ص ب � م ة ج � ب � �� � �� او ��ب� � او ب� ح ك� � ة ا � ب� ب ا � �� ب ب ا �� � ب � � �ة ب� �وا ب� ح ب� ا ���� بر � او �ل� ���را �م �و���ا �� او �� �ة�� �� �ر���� � �وة� ة��ر��� �و� ا �ة� ع��د ه�م �وة� ة ش �م����ل��م �ة��و�� ك� ����ة�ر. ة� ة ��ا � � � ب � � � �ل �� � ة ا ا� ب � �ب � � ��� � �وه ��� ��� ���ود ��� ��� ب������ل�و �م�ا د �ب�� ا ا ا �ل � � � ا � د م ة بو ��د ك� م ة ��وم � و �� ��مة� ة� بر � م�دة �� و رب � ة� � � ب � �ب ب� � �و�مب ��ة ��و��شص ��� بد ��ل��ك ا ������ا ���ود �ش�س ك� ة ا ��ل� ���ل ��ة � �صو� �ود �ب�ا �ب�ا ة� �و�ع بر�ل�� �و�م�ا ة� ش��سب��� د �ل��ك �ب ���رب� ب ر ة� � ط� ب� � � ب ب ا � ا�ا�م����ل � ب � ا �ب � ���ط� ب � � ب ا ��ل ���و ب� � � �م�� �بص �ب�ا �ب�� لة� � �ل��ب�� ��ة�ر �م � حة �ص او �ب�ا ة� � او �����ا ���ود ����� � ة� �م�ةص ب� � ب م �ر �ل�� ��ة� ة� � � ب ً ً ج � �ب حب��ا �ل �و�ل� � ط�� ���ره �ب�ا �ب�� �م�ا بة�� �م�� �ةل��ل�ك ا �لب��ل��د �م�ا ��ب� ب� �ر ا �ب��د ا � �وش�ا ب�لة��ا �ب�ا ب� ب���لب�� ����ل ��� � ��ود �و ب�� � ص ص ة ب ب � � � � ���ل�� ا � �لب��ة��ا ح� ��ب� ب�ع �ة������� � ���د �ة��ة��د � ة�ر�� ��� �ل���ب�� �م�د �ب��و ب� ��� ا �ل��� ب��ص �ب ��ة��د � ���ط�و��ل�� ا � ��ة��ا ة �� � ا ا � � و و ة ة ب ة م م � ا ة ا � � ب�� � ب ا ا �ة�بط� ا �ب � ���ط� ب � ب ا� � ا ب � مص ا�م�� د �. � �ب� � ب م بر � �ل�� ص �وب����د � م ج ج ب � � � ب ب � م�ة �� �ش���� ���ل��� ���ل�م�ا ا � ا ب���ًا ا � ة �ة ا � ب��م�� ة � � ة ا ا ب ب ب � و ةر �س��� �م �م����ل��مة��ع��د د �ل�ك ا ����� ���ود �و����م ة ة ع �ل�لك ا �ل���� �و�ةرا� � و ج ب � �� � �ةل��ل�ك ا ��لة����ا � �ر � �م�ا �ه� ا�ا�م�سب�� ب���ة��ا ��ل ��ا ب� ���� �ة����ا � �ر ��� �� ب � ا �ع ب ����ا � ��وه �ل� �ة� ���ب�� ب� ���� بم ل ب وة ب ةر رو ص وة و و ة� �� �� � ة� �ج � ب ��ا �ب ا �� ة ب ا � ا ا �� �ب �� �ب �ة ا �� ب ا ب � ب ب ب � � ب ح ة� ا ��ب���ا ب ��ط ��� �ر�� ك�� ��و ة�ع� ��و ب���� ���ل��م�� لة �ص �و� �لة�� ةص ��ة� د �ل��ك ا � بر�م�ا �. ا �ر�� �وك��ل م ة ة ط� ب� �� � د ا ب��� ب�ك���ا ��ا ب��� ا ������ا ��� د �مب���ا ه ����م�ا �مب���ا هة ا ����ه��د � ��ه �مب ��ة�� ه �م ب ل � � � ا � � ب � � ب و ة� و� ص ر و ر ل ة� و � بو ب ب � ا ب ب ا ب� ب � ب ب ة ��� � ع �ة��م�� �م ب �ش���دهة ا ��ل����� ا ه ا �� ��ة د ا ب��� ا ة � �صو� �و����� � � � ل�� �و��لة���ل �مص ا ����� او �م��ةص �ة����د � �ة��د ���ل و ة� ص � ب ة ة � ���ا � او ��ل��دة� بص د ب���ل� او ا � ح� ��� او �ب�ا �ب����ا �مب���ا �ه �مة�����م���� �م�ا ا � ���د ة��د � �ة�����ل ا �ة� ا ب�ر���ا �م بص �ش���ده ا �لة� � ة ا ا ة � �� � �� ا ����� �ع��� � �و�ل� ط� ا �ل���� او ه ا � ��ة� د ا ب���ل���ا. ة م ب �ً � ب � م��ا ب� ا ��ل�� بد �� �م�ع�� � ب ب�ك��� ا ������ ب ��� �م ب�� ش����ا ب� ا�ا�م�ا ء ��ل�� ش��� ��� ا �مب ا ��ة�� ب��ا ا ���� � ك� رةص ة ب� ةص ب ةر ة بر و � ة ��� ا ����ل ا ��ة را س� ة � ���ا ب�� ة� ة�لب ��بع����د �ل ب��ا �ل�� ا � ب ة ا ة ة ب �� ��� ��� ا �� �م����ل�م�� ب �ةل��ل�ك ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� �ا�م�ا ك� ةص1 ع �مة�� ه�م �مص �� ��ة�را � ب������ص �� او ك� ب �ة� � ة ة بة �� ب � � � � ب ب ��ا ب �ب ب � � � �� � ��ة �� ����� ��ا ب� �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل���م��ا ه ا�ا�م�بع�� �س ده ب�لة��ا ش�ر ب� ب ب � � �ب ب ة و ا ����لك ا �ل�دة�ص ك�� � �� او �ة� د �ل�ك ا ����� ر ب و � م ب ح �صو� �ل�ل�دة�ص ة ���� ش � ا �مب ا � � � ��� ����� �ع � ا �ةل��ل� ا ��ل ا ه � � ب � ب � ���د � او �كب���ل �و� �ود ��� و�ل� ب���ل �ل ب ب� ��رو ك ب�ة�� � وك ���ا � �� او ا � ����ل�� ك��ة��� �ةر� ب ة��� بر ��و � � ب � ب � � ة � � �� ة � � حة ا �� ا ب � اا � ��� ب �كة��د�ةر� او ة�ل ب��ا ب�ل�� ا � � ة ع �مة�� ه�م ���ة� �ل�لك ا �ل�ب�لة�� � �و�ة�� به �صو��� �مص د �ل�ك ا�م� ء �ة� �ل�لك ا �ل��� او ك� ب� ب ةص 1ال�أ�ص� � :م�ع�ل�ص�ل�� ف يس. ل
60
60
٧،٤
٨،٤
٩،٤
١٠،٤
١١،٤
Chapter Four
Once we disembarked, we headed for the residence of the consul, who wel-
4.7
comed my master warmly and ordered his servants to bring our things from the ship. They prepared some furnished rooms for us and brought over all our bags without the customs official inspecting them. There we stayed, treated in the most honorable fashion, and the French merchants began inviting us to their homes, displaying their due regard for my master. A few days later, the merchants escorted him outside the city to show him
4.8
a column as tall as a minaret standing by the sea.48 On it were carved birds, reptiles, gazelles, and other animals. According to those informed about the subject, the column was made of baked brick. It couldn’t possibly have been made of rock, as there were no mountains in those parts, nor any kind of rock to speak of. What’s more, the column’s thickness and immense size meant it couldn’t have been dragged on a cart or carried. No one could have budged it! The length of column buried in the ground was as great as its height above ground. It was clear, for all of these reasons, that it was made of brick. My master stood by the column, copying all the images inscribed on it.
4.9
When they asked him why he was copying the images and what they meant, he replied, “These pictures represent letters and words—secret signs containing mysteries that engaged the Greek philosophers long ago.” Beside the pillar was a cave known as the Cave of the Slave.49 It was a hollow
4.10
in the rock, and open to the sea, so it roared with the pounding of the waves. Very few swimmers could reach the cave; those who had managed to do so said it was huge. It was so vast and the waves so turbulent that no one had ever reached the end of it. Next, we went to see the forty cisterns the people of the city had once built to store their drinking water.50 According to the astrologers of the time, the appearance of certain stars had a polluting effect on the spring water. They believed that the polluted water caused those who drank it to go mad; that was the reason they built the cisterns. The astrologers would observe the skies shortly before the appearance of those stars, then divert the water of the springs toward the cisterns and fill them. They drank the cistern water until the
61
61
4.11
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
ب ب ا ة� ب � � ة ة � ا �� �كة ة �ل��د � ا �� ة �ة �� �� ا د ا � �� �و� �ة�ا �ش�ة�را ة� �ل��ل�ك ا �ل��� او ك� ب� �س� �� او �م بص �ل��ل�ك ا �لب�ة��ا �ه ا �ة� ���ةص �م� ب � ح� ��و � ة ب و ة ّٰ ب م� ب ب � �و���د ا ا �ل��د �ة� ���م�ه ب��ا ه �ع بص ���ب�� ب� �ع�م�ا �ه ���د ه ا �لب�ة��ا ��ة� � او لل� ا �ل��� . ��ش� � � ب م ب �ة ا ب� �ًا �ة ب �ب��د ��� ��ه �م ب ��ب �و�ع�م�ا�ةر �ة�د � �ش� ح ب��ا ��� ا �م�ا �� � � � � � � � ا ك �ل ك �س� � م�د � � � � � � � � ل � ب � ر ة � � ة � ة ة ص ة� ص �ة ر ر م ة � ة ً � ب � � ب ب ب � ب ة � ب ة ب � � ب ة ��ه ب��ا ا � �م��ل ب��ا ل��ا � ا � ��� ك���ا ��� ��ة� ��م�ا � ا � ����دة�� ��� �م�ا ب����م�ب�� ا �لة�ص ا �م�د � ا � بل�� � � .ا ��ة�را � ب� ة� و ة � ة ة م ج ة �ة � ة ةة ب ة � �� � او ��س����م ب��ا ��ة� �ل��ل�ك ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� �بر���� ا �ة�ا � ب��ب���ا �ة�� ا ���� بر � او �ل� ���را � . م م � ب � � ��� ة� ا ��و� ك�� �� ة ب � ا �ل�� ��ا ة ا � ة ل�ةب� � ب ب � � ا ��ل� ���ل �ة ��و� ا ���� ا �ل��� ك� �وك� �س��ل�� � او � ���ربج ���ة� �م�وك�� � ��ة� ب �ربج �مص د �ل�ك ب�ر ة م ج � م � �ب ش ب ة � ب ا�� ب ط�ع�م�� �م�ا ا �� ة� � ��ل�� ا � ة ب حع ة� ��ل ���ل�و ��ط �م� �س���ل��د��ة ة� �ة و ع ب�را �ل�ة���ل ����ة� ب�لة�� ��و�� ا ���و���� �و�مص ب� � ب � � ط�ه� ���م��ك �مش���ل�� ��ب ب��م�� ا �� �� � � ب � ة ا � � � ب �� ب ا ��ل� ةص ��ب� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل��� ك� ��ة� ��ل ة� ة �س��ل�� د ا ���ل ب�ر ع لب��ل د ا �ل�د ة� د ������ �و�� م�ل�� ة ا ما ة � ب ش ا ب حة ا بد ا د ب �� ����د ا ��ل���م��ك � ��� �م��ل�� ب ��ب �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل��س��ا ��ا ة � � � � � � �س�� ب�� � م������ � � � � � � ة ب و ةص ة� ة �ل � ة ر ة� ً � ا ��ل���م��ك د ا ب���ل�� �م�ا ب�ل���� د �ل ��ة��د ة ب� ب� .ا ب��� ا �ل�� � ا ب ب ة� � ��س��ا ب��ا ة� � م ة و ب ة � رج ة ر ب ة ����ط� د �وه �مص د ا ���ل �ل�لك ا �ل ة � � ب � � � � � ب � � ا ب ب � � ��و� ��و� �و�م��� بةل� ح�ب���ة ا �ل��� ك� �س���ل�� �� ���و� ���� � ب��ب���ة�ر �ة��ع ب� �وة� ار ه �م� �وه �وا ا �لب� ��ط� �ج� �و�م��� بةم�ل� �رب�� م ة� م م � �ش ة � � ش � ة � � � بو�لة��ة��د د �وه � �وب�ة�ر�و� �م ب��� ا �ة� ����ا�ةرا �لب��ل��د ����ة� �ب�ا � ك ل��ب��ة�ر�ة� .ا�ا�� ار د ا ����ر �م��ة�� ش����� ا ����ل �ل��ل�ك ا �لب���ل��د ج ب �ة ل�ا ب �� ا �� ب� ا �� �م ب ب � � ا ��ل��� � �ش ب� ا � � � � � ا ع � ا ل � د� � � ���وط�� �� �� �. ح� ر ب ب� ًل ص ل�ك م�ك و�م���ل �ل�� ة � ة ة � ة � � ب ة � ب � ة ة � ة �� �ل ب��ا ا �ب ا ة �� ا ب���را ������ا �م����ل�م � � ح�ة� �ةر �و� ا �ة� �م�دة�ل ب��� �س� ة ة ��ر ة�ل���ربج ���ة� �ل�لك ا �ل��م� �ص �� ��سم � ةر �ة� ج �ب ب ب ب � ب �ب � ب ا � ب � ة ا �� ��هبة ش ة � ب �م� �م���ا ��ص ا �ع��ة� ��ا � ب� كب����ة�ر ا �ل��د �ة� �ب�ة������ا �ر� او ��ة� ب�ر ا �ل�ة���ل �ر بح�� مص ب�ة��� �� ��ر ا� ا �� ع � ا ���� ب ب � ب ا �ب ب � � ا� ا ش ا� ب ا �ب ب ا �ب � �� ا ب � ب ا �� � م�د �� ل � ا � ا ا ل � � � � � � �� � � � � � � ����ل� � ب��م م � � � � ب � و و � ة� ر ة� ر ج ة� � �و� �رل�� �ة� د �ل�ك ا�م��� ��ص ا� و م ج �ًا ب ا � ب� ب � � ا� ا ش ا ة � � ب ب � �ب �� ب � ب � ب ا ب ب � ب� ��و�� � ب را �ل�ة���ل �و�ه�� ك ���و ب � �ود د ا ة�م� ا �� ��ص �ل� ب���ل ا�م��� ���� � ا �ل�دة�ص ب�لة��د ��ل� او �ة� ا لب �صو�� � � � ة� � �ب ب ا � �ب ب ب � ب �� � ح�ة ���د ���� �ه� �م ب ا �� ب��ا ب��� ة ب� ح��� �ة� ح ب� ا � �ة��د ���ل� او �ل�� ك���ل �م�ده ب�ة������و�م ا �ر�م��ل �ة� �� ة ة� ة و م ص ة ب � ا ب � ب � � ب� � � ب ب �و�ل. ا �لب �صو��� � � بو�لة����ة ر �� ب�ر عص ا �ل�د � � ب �ب �ب ب � � � �ة ة �ة ب� ة �ب ب� � ب � � �ب � �ش���� ب�ع ا� ا ��ل �و �� د �ل�ك ا ���وك� ��ر��س� �� د � � حة� ب� �ل���� ب�لة��د ���ل ة ة �ول ب�را �ل�ة���ل �ة� ب�را�م�ج ة ب ً � � � � � ا � ب� �� � ا � � ب ا �ل� � ب � ب � � ب ب ب ة ا ة ا ��ب� ب� ا�م� �ل � ب�����ة�ر ا ����� ة� ح���ل�� � ط او ا �ب��د ا �وك��� ا ��ة� ��� ةر ح�ط م� ب�ةص ب�رةص �ل� � ب�ر بم ة� ر� �ج ا� ا �� ��ب ش � � ب ب ب � � ب ة ا ا ا � �و���د ا ����� �اة�لة��� ��� ��م�� �� ��� ب� ا�م� ل ا �لب�ة��� ��ط�ا �ل� ا ��� ��ط� ه ��� ب� ا�م� �ل � �وك��� ا ��ة� ل رة ة ر ب و ة ر ة ة ج ج � � ب ب � � � � ب � ة ب ب ب ب ب ة ة ب ح ��ط� ��ط ��ا ��ا � �� � ��ا ����ا ا �ب � ا� ��ب� �ة�ا ا �بل�� � ب ب و ة� ب � ح ��ط�و ��ط ب�لة���ص �ة� �و�ك� ا �����لة���� �ك���� �ل� �م� �هة� ����ل � و ر ة �ة � � � � ب � ��ل � ا � ة ة ب �ب ا ��ل� ب ب ب ا ة�ب ة � � � ا ا� ا �� ب ب ل � � � � � � � � � ا � � ل ا � ا � ا �ل � ح م ا �ل���ه� �ل�وه ��ة� ب ��د ���ل �ة� ب ر مص ��ة ر ���� ��ل�ط �م� �م� �� �� ���� �� ب ج و �ة� ول ب ص � �م � �� �ب�ا ب� ا �ل���� ��ا ب� �ب�ة�� ش���رب� �م بص ����ل ا �ل��ب��ه�. 62
62
١٢،٤
١٣،٤
١٤،٤
١٥،٤
Chapter Four
effects of the stars passed. At least, this is what we heard about the construction of the cisterns, but God knows best.51 We toured many other ancient sites and buildings. The city of Alexandria
4.12
is one of the world’s great ancient cities, just as the chronicles record. We returned to our house and stayed in the city a few more days, and were treated honorably and hospitably. Each day, I’d go down to the harbor and gaze at the fish caught in the sea,
4.13
whose waters mixed with the waters of the Nile. It was something amazing to see! I’d never seen or tasted such delicious fish in all the lands I’d toured. In the harbor, they’d built some corrals in the water to catch fish. Inside each corral was a device that prevented the fish from leaving once they’d entered. In that way, they could be caught in the corrals without any effort at all. You’d see the fish piled up in heaps along the edge of the harbor. From some fish, they’d harvest the roe; others would be salted and dried. A great quantity was exported to many countries. All this is to say that the livelihood of the working people in that country came mostly from those fish and Asyūṭī fabric, meaning linen. My master prepared to travel to Cairo and see its sites. We booked passage
4.14
on a maʿāsh—which is a large riverboat that travels along the Nile.52 We left the consul’s home in the morning, went down to the riverboat, and sailed in the sea till we arrived at the straits of the Nile. Every now and then the sand would pile up on one side of the straits, blocking the entrance, so there were always people there to guide riverboats in, pointing out which side to enter through. As we passed through, I studied the way the Nile flowed into the sea. It was something wondrous! It poured into the sea, but didn’t mix with it at all: I could see a line between the two bodies of water, as the Nile waters headed to the seabed. This was something I’d observe again during my voyages at sea. I saw white lines on the seabed when the waters were calm, and when I inquired about them, I was told they were the freshwater rivers that entered the sea without mixing with the salt water. Some people claimed that the clouds would absorb water from these rivers.
63
63
4.15
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
� ب بً ب ��ا ب� �م ب ا ���ب�سة�� ا ��� ا ��بل� ���ا �اة�لة��� ��ب� ا ��بل� � ��ب� ا �ة�ا � ا �ل ش��س��ة� �ا�م�ا ب�لة��ب� بر��ل ���� �و���د ا ا �ة�� �ر ب�لة����ة�ر ��ة� ص ر م ة ة ة م ة � ب ب � � ا��ا ب � ب �ع �� � ب ش ة �� ب � � ة� � � � ب ة ش د �ل�ك ا� ك� م�� � ��ل ���ا ا�ام�ا ء ط��ره ة�م�� ا ع��ة� �ب�ة�� � ��س� ا بل��ر � ب�و�ة�������ل ا �ة� �ل�لك ا �ل����ه� � �وب�ة�����رب� �م � � ب � � � ب � ا �� ب � ب ب � � � �� ���د ا �ه�و ا ب� ��ب� ب� ا�م ا ��ل ح� ��ط ا ع��� ب ر � ���ل�و � او �ل ش����ا ���د �� ���د �ام�ا ب�لة���ر ا�ام�ا ء �م بص ا�ا��رك� ب� � � ة ر ة � ة ة � ا� � ة �ة � ب � ب �� � ب ب� ا �� �ل �� �� �ب �� � ب � �ل � ب ا � �ب ب � � م��ا ب� � ����ة��ه��ا � ا � � � � ا م ا ه � �د � � د د � ه � � ل � � � ك � � � � � ل � ك ب � � � م��س��ب� رة ص ��س�ط��ل ص ص ب ة و ة� � � ة ة و ب � ة ة� بوة ب � � ا � ب ب � � ا� ا ��ل � ��� ب �ة� ا �ل �� ة ب � � ب��ب���ة�ر ا ب� �ة��د ب���ل�� �صة� ��م �� عب�� مص د �ل�ك ا�م� ء ا ح� �ص� �ع ��ط�ا ه ���لة��� �� ب � ���ل�و �و�ل�� �ر��� ا د ا �هب�� ب ة�� ب � م � ة ة ب ا � �� ب ا ب � � ب ب ا ب ب � � � ب� ا� �م�ا ء �م�ا ��ل ح� ��ط ا�ام�د ���و�. � � �وب�ة����س�� �� او �م��� �م� ���ل�و �مك�� �م�ه�� �مص ا �ل�دة�ص ���� �ر� او ��ة� ب�رمة ب �ً ب � ب ا �ب � � ب ب � � ا� ا ش ا� ب ب ج ا ب� ب �ب م�د �� � � ����ا �ب �ب�ا �و�ر ب� �� � ا � � ا ا ا ا �� � ل ل � � � � � � د �د � � م � ���دده. � � � � � � � � ل � ك ب � ةر ع �م� حص �ة� ص ة� ر ة ل ب و� و ر � � � ة ب � � � ب � � �� ب ���ا � ا ��� ا � �و����ل ب��ا ا ��� �مة�ب��� ��ش�سة��د ا � ��ة� ��ه� ا � ك� ���ده � او �لش��ا ب�لة��� ��را ��� او � �س���ل ة� �س� ة د �ل�ك ا ل � ة ة ة ب � �� ب ح ب��ا �م ب بد ��ل��ك ا�ا�م���ا ��ش � � ب ا � ة ط��م��ا ���ط ب���ل�م�ا با�لة �م�ب���ة � ��ب��ا ا ��� ا �ل��� ك� � ص و� � ة ح�� ا �ة� ب��ة��� � ب���ل ة �س��ل�� �ر ب� ص ة ة ب ب � ب ب ب ب ب ة ب ب � ب ب � � او ب��� د �و�ا � ���ل�م�ا د ���ل ب��ا ��� �م��ر�ل�� �����د ��ا ��� د � ب� �م بص ب� �حج��م����م� �ة�ا ب�ر � �ر����ا �و�ة� ة�����م� �� ة ة ج ة ع ب � � ب � ة ب ���ب� د � �� ا ب��ا ���ب � ا ب � ا ب� ا ��ل��د ب ب ة � � ���� ا �� �� ة � ���� �م����م� � ا�ل � ع ��ر�ص�و� ب�لب��ل� ��ط � او �ر ا �ر� ة � ة و �ة ة و ر �ج ب � ب �� � ب � ��ا ب ا ب �ش� ش � ��بل ا �� � ة ب ب ب ل ��ره ا �ل � ���� ك�� ����� ���رد ��ة� �ب�ة�����ر ا�� �طر. �ب��� ش���ر�� ����� ب�را �ل�ة���ل � او �ا ���ة� ا �ر� ا ح� � ب ة ة ب ة �� ج ة �ة � �ب اب ا ب �ًا ����� � ا �� �� �ة ا �ب ا ب ا �� ا � � ا ��ل�� � � ح � � � � � � ل � � ا ا ا ا � م � � � � ح � ط � د ل � �� � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � ��ة ر ع ة� �و ب و� � و ر ب� �ة� ��مة� ب ة �ل ر م و ة ة� و ر � حة �لب �ة � ا � ا � � ب ة ���� � بم�� � �ش���� ب ب��م�� ���� ا ب �س��ا ا ��بل ح ب��ا ا �ة� ���و�� �و�هة��ا ا �ة� �م����ل��م� ا �و ب� ���دا �م ��ة� ة ���ل�و � رو ةع و � � �وة ب ة ب ة � ب � ب ة ��ً�ا ب ا ة ة ب ا� � ة ب � � ب ��س او �و�ة��ع ش����� ب��ا � ح بص ا �ة� ب� ���ا � ا ��ة� ا � ���ل �و�ك ة� ا ���ع ش����ا �كب����د �م�ا ���ع ش � �� ��س����م�� �مك�� �ل� د �ل��ك ا �ل � ة �س�ة��م ة� ا �ة����ا �� �م� ا ��بل �م� ب��م��ل��ة ا ��بل ���دا � ا ���� �م�ا ��ا ب� �و�كة ة� ا�ا�م ب��ا � � . ���دا � ب��ا � ة � حة�ب�ً�د � او � ���د ر ة م م م ع ع �ب �م ب ا ��ب ح�ة � � � ب� ا � ب���� ا ���ة ���ا �ب�� ا �ه �ص ���ا �� ��ل��ل�م ب��ا �م�� ب��ا ��ا �� ة� � ة���ل ة� ��ل�� ا �ب�ا � � ل � � � دا د � � � � ك بة و م ة� ة� ةر ةو �ة� و� �ة� و ة و ة� ص � ب ب � � ب ب ب ب ة ب ا ����� �م ب ب�ل����د � ة�ل ب��ا � د ا ��� ا �و� � با � ����� � او �ل �را �ل ش����د �ة��د ���� �ة� ����ل ا �ة� �م ا ��� ة بب�ل�� �م �ة� ����ل ��� ة ص ة ل م ب ب ب ب ب� �� ��� � ا ب �ًا ة� ك� ب �كب�� ط�� � ح ب ا � �� � �ش ا � � ا ��� � ة � ����� �و�سب���� �كب ��ةعة� ة� �و� ���د �ة� ��ة� د �ل��ك �ة� ول و� �ة� �م� مع� ك�ل م� �� .ة ر ر ة ة � ً � �ة ���ب� ا ة�� ش ح�ة ا �ب�ا � � �م�ا م����ا .ا ب��ة�را �بر�ش�س ة� �بر�ش�س ة� ا ��ل��د � ب� ا � ��ة� ك� ا �لب�� ة � ���ا ب�� ة� �م�ه ب��ا � او ب�لة� ك ��ة�� � ة� م و ة � ��� �ب ا ش ��ده � ّ ب ة � ��ة� �ل��ل�ك ا �ل��لة���ل��. ب �ر� ة���ص ب� ة ب�ر ة� ���� ة ح�� � ب � ب � ب �ة ة ة ة ب �ب ش � � � ة ��بم�ا ��ل ع ����ة�� � او �ةل��لب���� �و ب� ح�ع� � ��و��س� ��ة� ا � ��� ار ��ص � او �ل� ��م�ع� � ص و�ةر ح�ه�ة� �و�ه�و ص م ب � ة � �ب � ة �با �� ب� ��ب� �م��ا هة ا �� ب� ا�ا�م�ةهة���ل�� ��ب� �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل���ا ب��� �ب��ل�م�ا �ةل�� �� ل �� ا �ل�� ���و��ص ا �ع��ة� ا �لب �ص� ا �ل�د ة� ب��ة�����و ة ة ر ة� ب ص ة � � ب� � حب ب � ة � ب �ش ب ب ���ا �بم �� ة� �م بص ا � ب��� ار ��شص ك� �� � �صو� و� ح ه� د �ل��ك ا �ل ب��ا ���و��ص ���� ب� ح� ��ر� ا ك������ �عص �و ب� � هة� �و�عص و ب � �ة 64
64
١٦،٤
١٧،٤
١٨،٤
١٩،٤
Chapter Four
I also witnessed this at sea on rainy days, when a rain cloud would descend
4.16
to the sea and the water would churn and boil beneath it. It would split the sea open and reach down to those rivers, soaking up the fresh water. Here’s one proof of this: When a ship’s fresh water runs out while sailing on the ocean—the Indian Ocean, I mean—the sailors lower a copper bucket into an undersea river that flows below. The bucket fills with fresh water, and a mechanism inside the bucket closes the lid tightly so no salt water can get in. And that’s how they get their fresh water, according to those who’ve traveled the Indian Ocean. Let me return to my account. We entered the Nile on that riverboat and
4.17
traveled the whole day before arriving at Rosetta, one of the two access ports to Cairo; the other is Damietta.53 When we arrived, we disembarked and went to the home of a French merchant named khawājah Durand.54 We entered his house, ascended some wide stone stairs, and arrived at a spacious, paved walkway. At the end of it was a salon overlooking the Nile and the surrounding emerald-green fields of rice. It was a sight that truly warmed the heart! Khawājah Durand came up to meet us and greeted my master most effu-
4.18
sively. He ordered the servants to carry our things upstairs and had a room prepared for my master with all the necessities. We remained there the rest of the day, till it was time for dinner. They dined together while I ate with the rest of the servants, staying up late to chat with them until it was time to sleep. One of the servants offered to show me the room they’d prepared for me to sleep in, but I declined. “I’ll sleep here, on this walkway,” I said. “Who could possibly sleep inside in summertime? In this scorching heat?” He advised against it, and tried to insist, but I wouldn’t listen, so he left me to my own devices. There I stayed, all by myself on that walkway, strolling back and forth. I set up the camp bed we had brought with us and lay down to sleep. I had no sense of what was about to happen to me that night. As I lay down on the bed, I heard a loud buzzing noise and my face was suddenly covered with mosquitoes—the insect found in the stagnant waters of the rice fields in that region. My face swarming with them, I jumped up from the bed like a madman and tried, unsuccessfully, to bat them away from my face, arms, and legs. In the end, I lit my pipe and the smoke of the tobacco drove
65
65
4.19
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
� ب �ب ب ���هة�ة ب � ة � ة ب � ب � ة ة ب �� �س او ���د �ة� �و� ب���ةل��� �بر���� �م بص ا � بر�م�ا � �و�م�ا ا � � م��ص ا ��� ة ���ة� ح�ة� �و���ع� ��لة �صو� ا �ل���ص ة �� ب � ب �ب ة ة� ش ا �ب ب � � � ب� ب ة �ب ب ب� ب ة � �� ب � ب �ب ة ب ة ب ب ة � � ا � ا ك � ل � � � س ك � ا ا � � ل ل � ���� و ��ة �صو� �ة� �ود ح�� �مص د ح�� �� ص ر ��ة� و ��ة� ���ر� �م���� �ة� د �ل�ك �� ة ً ب ح�ة ا �ب�ا � �ب����ا � ب�� �مش��� �م�ا ��ع ة ا �� ا �� ب��� ا ��ش � � .ا ب��� ا �ة��ع� ة � ب���ل �� ّ ا ��ل بص � �ب � ب ة� ل ��مة� ة ر ب � و ب� �ة� �وةم ر ب � �ة� ر ص ة� م �ّ � �ة �ة ب � � � ة ا � ب� �ب ا � �� �� ب�كب ب ة ا �� ب ً ش ���ا ا ��م����� � او ش���رب� � ح�ة� �ل� �ة���رب� ا ��ة� ا �ل ب��ا ���و��ص. ��� ة � ��� ��� ب �ة� �ة� �ل�ول � ص ة ة � � ب ��ل � � � .ب ب� ح ��ط ��ب� ��ا ��� ��ا ب� ا ��بل ب��ا � ة � ��ا د � ��ا �ل ا ��ة� � �� �س�ة��م ة� ���� ���د ا ا ح� � ����ل�� � ا ���ب��م حة��ً�د ر ة ب ة ب � م م ة �ب � � ب م �ب ة �ج � � ب ة ا ب ا � با ���د ب�����د � او � ح��ص ا �لب �ص او ب� � او � �س��� �ة� ا �ل� �و� ���� �� ���د ا �ة� ا � ��ر� ا ب ���ة� �ب� ��� �هة�� ء �ة� �� ���و� ة � ب �ب �ل ا � ة �ب ة � � م��ا ب �ب ا �� ة ة ب بة � ح ة� �و��ل�� � ا �لب��ا ب� �ب�د ب���ل ة� د ا ب���ل ا�ا ك� ���� � �م� بح���ة����� �م �� ة� ا ��ة� �ب�ا ب� ا �و� � � رة� ا �ل � �ة ج ب ب ة � ب ة �ب �ب با ��س��� ا �عب��� ب��ل�� �ل �ب�كة�� �ود ا ب���ل�� � ب�م�ر�و��شص �بر�ش���� ب ب�ر ب� � ح��� ةص 1ل����ا � ����� ��� �ة�� �م�ا لة���و� �� �و�م ة ة ة ع ب ش ��ا ب ة ب ش ا ب �ب ا ب � ب� �ب��� �بك ة� � ��د ب�� ة� ب�ب��ر ب���ل�ل�و�كة ة� ا �ب� ��طر� حة�ب�ً�د �ب�ا ب� ����ل �ر����� ك�� ��� �م������ �� �م� ��� ح ة� ����� د �ل��ك ر ة ة ب � � ة ة ش ب ة ب ة ا �� ب��� ا �� ا �ل ب�ا �ع� � ��د ا � ��� ب � �ا �ا � ا �ل� � � ح�� ا �����د ا. ر ص � م و� � ة� ةص م ب� و ب �ه�وة� ة �� �ب ا ب � �ب��ل ا ا �ب�ة���ع ة � ��ل�� ة ش�ل ا � �ب ا �� ة بد ا �ة د ا ب� � � ا �� �م � � ة ���ل �و�ل� ��ا ب�ل��لة��� �ل�ل�� ك���ل � � ��ر�ك ة� �م� ب � � و ب ��س� ة�� ب�ة� رة� �ة� ةج و م� �ة� ب � ا ا ب�ل�� ب ا � ة �ة ة �ب ا � � ب � ا �ب ا ��مب � ا ا ة ا �ب�ة �ب ا ب � ا �ب ا �ب ب �� ��� �و � حب���ل �و م� ��د � م �ل���� ب�� ب � ��ة� �و �س���م� �� �ل��و� � ��و � ��ر ة� �و � �ة� د �ل�ك ة ب ة ب � � ب ب ب ب ة �ج �ب ة � � ا� ة��ل ا � ة ا ا � � � � ل � حه� �� �ل�لك ا��� ار ��� � � � � � � ا �� � � م ا ا ا ا � � � � �� �� � � � � � ل � �� � � �� � � � � � م � �ة� ب ب� �ل و� � ر� ة� و ب � ة� ة ة � ل � ة� رة � ة ب ب �ب ���د ا �عب �� ة ا �ة ا ة �ب ة �ب �ة � ة � ط�� حم�ة� ا ��� ب� ش����ا ��� � طم �م���د ا ���� ح�ة� �م� ���د � ا �عر�� د ا �ة� �و�ه�و ار��ة� ا ���لب�� ة ة �ب �ة � ب� ب � � ب � ب� ب � ا ب � � ا ب�لةصب�ب � ة ب� ا ب ة ب� ح ��و� �و��� ك ح �م�� ة� ه� � ح�ة� ��� � ���و�� ��د �ود �ة� ��د �ود �و ��و� بح ��و� عة �صو�ة� ب � و ب � �ة ج ب ب ب ��� ��ا ب � ب ة � ب ا� � ب شب ب ة ��م����ب� �و��� ��ص ���م� � �وب��عة� ة� ��ة� ��ا �ل�� ���ة�� �و���د ا ك��ل�� ك�� � مص �ر�ص ا �ل�� ���و��ص. ة ة ً � �س�ة��م ة� ��ب �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل��� ب� ب �� ا� ا ب � حة�ب�ً�د ا � ة � ح��اة�ة� �م بص ا �ل ب��ا ��ص .ا ب��ة�را و ة� ���� ب�����ة�ر ا ك���ل ا�م���� ء �مص �ة ب ب ا � � ب ب ة ا � � ا ب �مب ب � � اب ةب ب �س����ة��د �� �م����ل��م �و���� �ل ع��� ����� ���و�ل�� �ب� ��� � ح��ا �� ا �� � ب���ا � �م�ا ��� ���د ب� ا� � ��م بص �ب� �ة� ة ة� ة ب ة� �ل و� و ب ة �رة ة ربج ب ب ب� ا ب ب ا� ب ا ب ا � �� ��ب�� �ب�ا ��ا ا ��� �ع ب��د � � ح�ة� � ا ةر ��ة� ��ل�م� �ا ��ة� ��ة� ����ل �� �ل�� �ك���� � ��ة� �م� ��ة� ا �ا ك ��ة� رة ص ب ة� ة� ة � ب ب � ب � � �� �ب � ب ا �ة � � � ة ة ا ا ب � ب � � � � � � ����ل ��ا �ل�� .ب��ا � ك ح��ة���ل�� �ب� �ل�د ة� ب� ار ��ة� �ة� د �ل�ك ا �ل�لة���ل �مص ا �ل�� ���و��ص �وك�ة�� ا �ة� �م� كب��ل� با � ب �ب ��ل ا � ا � �ب����� ة ب ب � � ��بل ا ب ة � � ة ا ب � ب ة��� �مص د �ل�ك ا�� د �م �������ة� �ل� �� ��د ����ة� �� ��طرك �و �ة� ا�� �ل ب�� ب� �ة� د �ه�و� �ود ��ص � ��ا ب ا ةًا ب ة � � ب ب ب حه� �مك�� ك�� � ���� �ب ���� �و���د ا ك� ���ب��ة��� �� � � حه� �و ��� د ��ل��ك ا �لة �صو� �بك ش�� د ��ل��ك ا ���و�� �و� ب� م ص �و ب � ة� ة ع �و ب � ة� م ب ��� ��ل��ل��بد �� ��� � � ا ��� �ش�س��د ��ل�� �ل ب��ا � ��ب���� �ب�ا ��� � � � � � �س���. � � ة ة ب ةروج ة� � ة ة م ب ةر و ة 1ال�أ�ص� � :ف��� ف يس. ل فر
66
66
٢٠،٤
٢١،٤
٢٢،٤
Chapter Four
them away, so I strolled for a while along the walkway with the pipe in my mouth. Eventually I felt sleepy, and went back to my bed. But the mosquitoes came for me again, just as they had the first time! So I got up again and walked and smoked so that the mosquitoes wouldn’t come near me. I did this until just before daybreak. Then I remembered that the servant
4.20
had told me he’d set up a mosquito net for me in the room. I went around, quietly trying the doors one by one till I found a door that opened. Inside, I came upon a bed with a mosquito net—a light drapery covering a bed dressed with two sheets of the finest linen. I was certain that this was the bed intended for me and, unwilling to look a gift horse in the mouth any longer, I threw myself down on the soft mattress and slept until they came and roused me for lunch. When I got up and put on my clothes, I felt dizzy and weak, and had no
4.21
appetite. So I sent away the person who’d come to wake me, and stayed in the room feeling all muddled, and unable to open my eyes properly. I saw a mirror hanging on one side of the room, so I went over to look at myself. My complexion was hideous, and my proportions so exaggerated that I didn’t even recognize myself. My face had swollen up, and it appeared as though I had cheeks on top of my cheeks, and eyelids over my eyelids! My lips had swollen, my mouth was engorged, and I felt terrible. All thanks to those mosquitoes! I stayed in the room all afternoon without eating, too ashamed to let myself be seen by others. Finally, my master noticed I was absent and asked where I was. They told him I was hiding in my room and wouldn’t come out, so he assumed I was ill. He came by to visit me. “Whatever happened to you?” he asked, when he found me in that sorry state. I told him what had transpired overnight with the mosquitoes, and how I’d not taken the advice of the servant. “Don’t you worry,” he said, and brought me some ointments right away, daubing my face with them. The swelling subsided that same day and my face returned to normal. Let this be a warning to anyone who might go to Rosetta. Don’t sleep without a mosquito net!
67
67
4.22
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
��ب���ا ا ح ة� ا �ب�ا � �م����ل�م � د �ب�ا ��ب �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل���ل��ده � �ة ب��� � ب ا �و�����د بد ��ل��ك ا ��لة �صو� ب�ر ب� و رب و �ة� و � ة� ح�� ����ة� ا �م� ك� � ب ب م ب ا � ا � ب �ب ا� ��ب ب ب ش ا ا ب ا ب ا �ة ا �ب ا ب ا ب ا ب ا ب � � � � � � � ه � � � ك � � � � ك �و� � �سو �ع��� و�� � ���� رة�ل�� �� � ���� ��ةص ة�� ة��ه�ود ��ص وعة�� ����م و����� �م ب�� ل����ةص �ة� ة ب ب ب ة ا � � ب � � � ب�����م حص ا �م ب ا � � ��ا ب � ة ا ة ��بل ا ب � ش ة ب � ��د ك�� �����م ��ة� �� او �� � ا�� � ب�ة����سس���ل� او �مص ��ة�ر ��س�� � �و�ل� �ع ��ط�ة� �و�ل� ة ب� ب �و ص � � �� ا �� ب�� ب� � ب ا � ا ا �لة � �ب ب � ا � ا ��� �� � �ة�ه� ا �ة��� ��� � ب ة �بص �م بص ا �ع�م�ا �ل � س ب�ل د �رب و���د م� �ة �� �ة� ��ة ر م� � و � � و � ح�ع� ب�ر ر م ة� ج � � ب � ب ا �ًا ب ا ة� � ب ��ل � �ب ا � ب ب ا �لب�ة���ل �ود ة�م� �� ��ةص ة���ل م� ���� � �وك� ���ل ا �����ا � �مب��ا � �ل�� �ب�ا � �ة��د �و� �ب�ا �ل��لة���ل �م بص ب��ة�ر ا � ا � ���د ج � �ع � ب ب ب ب � � �لة� ا ب � � �� ��ر .ا�ا�� ار د ب�ل��ل��د ة ��� �� ���� �ل� �م بص ��ا �� �و�ل� �م بص ��ة�ره ��ل�� �� �ع بص ��ة�ر ا �م�ا ��بص �م بص �ب�ل��د �س� م ب ب � � ة ب ب ب � ب ب ة ش��� ��� � ا �م�ب��� �� ��� ��� �م�ا ل��� � � �م�ا ا �� ة� �ك���ا �ع�� ��� ا �ل ب��ا ��� �� ���� ��ط ��م ب �ش���ده �م�ا ر و ة ة� ة ة و و � ة ة� ة ب ة ر و ص ص �ب � ب ا ب ش ب ا �ب ب �س�ة��م ب��ا ا ش� ب�� � ش � ���د ه ا ��لب���ل��ده ا � ة � ا �ب����س ����� � او ����ر� ع���ر �ة ��و� ك� ���ا �ب����ا �ة ��و� � او � ��د. ح�� �ة� � ة م م بة ا ب با � ا� ا ش �� ��� ب� ا ��لب���� ا �� ا ب� � ����ل ب��ا � ا � �����ده ا � ة �سم � ��ةر�ل ب�� �م� ا�م��� ��ص �و���� � �ر� ا �ة� �م�دة�ل��� �س� ر �ة� ر ة ل ة� و بو ع �ب �ل� � � � ة ة � � ة � � ��م�� ا �� ���ا � ���ب ة با ب ح ب��ا �م� ا ��ل �واة ب� ا ��� ب� ��و�ل� �� ا � ��� ��ه� ا � ك� �س���ل� �س� ��ر ��م��ل ب��ا �� �م�� �ه �و�كب���� �مص �ل��ل�ك ا ة ر ر و ة ة ة ة ة ب اع � ا ة ا� � � ب ا �� ة ب ب ة ��ا ا ا ب ب � � � ل � ا � � � � ��ر � او �� �ر� ا �م� �ه �ب� � �ة ��و���ل� �و� ا �ة� �� �ه ا�م�و� �� �ود ��ل�� �م�دة�ل��� �س� �س�� ��ة� �هة� �م��ر ب � ة � � � � ة ب ب � ��ا �ه �ا � �� ا � ب��� �����ا � �و�� ���ل�م�ا د ب���ل ب��ا ا ��� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل ا � ب��� �ب����ا � �و�� �ود ا ب��� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل ��ا �ه ب��ة�� ة� �كب�� ل ر ر ر ة ة ة ج ب ب �ة ب � � ا ب ا �� � ة ا ا� ب � ب � ب ��و� ���ل�م�ا �و�ة�� �ب��ر �ل��ل�هب�� ��ر ��ة� �و� �صو�ل ب��ا ��ا ������ل �م بص �ع ب��ده ��دا م �و ب�� � او ب�ل�� ا ة� ب�ة��� �م�د � �ع ة � �ة � ب � �� � � ��ا ب ��� � ب ة ب ب ابة ح ب� �كة��� ب��ب���ا �ة�� ا ���� بر � او �ل� ���را � �ل��ب�� ك�� � م ��ب� ��ره ���ة� �م����ل��مة� ����� � ����� � او ���� ر ع ��ة� ��د �و�م�� ا �ة� م � ة �� ب� �م ب � ب ة �ا ب ب ب ا � � � �م�دة�ل ب��� ا � ك �س��ب��د ��ة�� � او �ب�� ��ر�����ل ص ح� ��س��ا ��� �و�ل� ب���ل د �ل��ك ��ره �����ل��ط� � �ر����� �ل� ب���ل ا �ل ة � م���ل�ب��� �م ب ب��ا �� ا � ب �� ا � ب ا ���د � �ب ��ش ��ل�� ا � ب ���� � او �� ا ��بل ���� � ك� �ع�م��ل ��ل�� ا �� ���دا � �ب�ا �ب���� �ة��ة ب� � � و و و � ص ص ر � �� او ة ص ر ر م م م �ب ب � � ة � ب �� �ب � ب ب � �ة ا ب ع ك � � ��ر. � � � � �ة� ��د م�� ل � ص ة ر � �ة � ب ة �س�ة��م ب ا �ب � ة ا �� ��ةهب �ش �� �ش �ة ا � ا � ا �� � � ب � ةص �م�ا �مك���ل ة� �م����ا �امة��� �م� ا �لب���ا � � بو�����د ��ر �ل � ة� ة� � ��ا � � �� �ة� ب�ة��� �� م بع ب ب �ة � � � ب � ب ة �ة ا ��لش��ل�� �ش��ة ا ��ا � ا � ة �س��ا ب� ب� ا ��بل ��ر �ب�ا �ب�� �ب�ة�ر�ة��د �ة��د �و� ة�لة���رب� ��ة� �م�دة�ل�� ��ره ا � ��هب�� �وا ب�� مص ح� � ةم ج ب � � ب � ب ا �ب ب ب � ة ب ب ب ا ا ا ب ب ب ب � � � �� � . ��ر � او � حة��ً�د ���ةص ا � ��ه�� ��د �مص ا ����ر ا �ل�دة�ص �ة� �ب� �ب�� �ب� ��� �ةر�وج �م�ه�� � �وة��د �و��� �ة� �س� ر � ب ا �ب ب ب ة ح ب��ا ا� � ب � ��ر � �و ب���ر ب� ا� � �م�دة�ل ب��� �س� � ا � � ا �� � � � ��ر���� � د �ل�ك �ر ب���ل ك��ل ة ��وم ة��د �و��� �ة� ���ةج مص � �صةوج س� ة � ة ب ب �ة � � �� ب �ة � �م�ا ة � با ���� ا �ل��م�ا ��بص ا �ع��ة� ���� ��� ��ر �ر�ع�و� �و���ة�ا � �����ل���� � او �ر�م��لة���� 1و���ة� ب�لة �صو� ا �ل��س�� ب��� و ة ة أ 1ال��ص�ل :وا لر�مي���ل�ه.
68
68
٢٣،٤
٢٤،٤
٢٥،٤
Chapter Four
The next day, my master and I toured the town, observing its buildings,
4.23
streets, and caravansary. We passed by a tenement inhabited by Jews and their families. Their women sat working in the covered arcades, without veils or scarves. They didn’t withdraw from anyone’s sight—it was as though they were living in the land of the Franks! I saw similar things in other parts of the countryside around Cairo. The coffee shops were on the banks of the Nile, and they’d remain open all day and night. One was free to walk around at night without being stopped by the authorities or anyone else—unlike other parts of Egypt. It was a wonderfully pleasant and safe town. There wasn’t a single thing wrong with it, except for the mosquitoes. We were so happy and relaxed in Rosetta that we spent twelve days there, but it felt as though only a single day had passed. We booked passage on the riverboat and traveled to Cairo along the Nile.55
4.24
We arrived at Būlāq, the port in Cairo, and had some donkey drivers load up our bags. We straddled a pair of trotting donkeys and rode into Cairo, having ordered the drivers to take us to the Mouski quarter, where all the French merchants lived. The French consul’s house was in that quarter, and news of our arrival sped ahead to the consul as soon as we reached it. He sent some servants, who brought us to his home. When the consul set eyes upon my master, he embraced him and greeted him most cordially and honorably. He’d heard about my master’s arrival in Alexandria, and knew he’d been dispatched on a voyage of exploration by His Majesty the sultan of France, so he treated him with great deference and prepared one of his finest rooms, going so far as to order his domestics to put themselves at my master’s service—something that other consuls had not done. We remained in the consul’s home for three days, receiving all the merchants and paying our respects. Then the khawājah asked the consul’s permission to let him tour Cairo and see the sights, and the latter appointed a ghuzzī in his service to accompany us and take us around the city. The man came along each day and gave us a tour of a different quarter of Cairo, showing us the
69
69
4.25
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
�س�ة��م ب��ا �ب��د � �م� ���� ��� ا ���ب�� ب�� �ش�ل�� �ش��ة ا ��ا � ب�لة��ب� ب� ب�كة�����ل�م ب��ا ة� ش��سب��� بد ��ل��ك �م ب ا�ا�م�ب���ةر ب��ا ة� ب��ا � ة � ص و� ع ل � ب ل ر ة ة م رج � � ب �ة ا ش� � � ��س او � . �م����ا �ل��ك ا �ل��د � �و ب� � او �ل�� � � او �ل � ً �� ب ا ب ب ب � � � � � ب ��ا ب �ة ب ���ده ��ا �ب�� � ��ب���ة ش � ا ب��ة�را �ا د �م����ل��م� �ب�ا � �ب��د �و� �و� � � � � ك � � � �� � ل � � � ب ��د�� �مص ��ة�ر د �ل�ك ا ر ل ب ة ص ة ش ا � � ب � ��ا ب �ًا ب ة ش � ا �ب � �� �ل�� �د ا ��ل�� بد � ���د ب � � � ل��ا �مش���ل �م�د ا �لة��ا ة� ة��د � � � ا � ك ل � � � � د � � � �� � � � � ك �م ل� �� � � � ����� ا ��سة�� ا �ل�د ة� � ة ة � ة ة ص ة� ة� ل ب م ة ��ة ة ب� ة � �ة � ش � ب ب ة � و��بر ب���ل �و�م�ا ة� ش��سب��� � ك � ا ��ا � �� ةم�ب��� �مش���ل ا�ام�ا ��ص � �وة�ا ���و ة� �و���رد � � � �د �� � � � م � �وك ب� �و ة�ج ة و س�م ب �� � � ا �� ا ب� ا ا ة � � ا �ه �م� � �ب � �ب � �� ا ��ل ش �ة ا � � بد �� � �م ب ا ��ل � �و ��� � و م� �ة� �رو� �ة� ب�ل د ���ر� �ل� ��ا � ا � � ل��ر��م�� � بو���� ب��ص ب��� � ���� � ل�ك ص ب ة � � � ش ب ب � � � ب ب ب �م ب �ة��ل���ل�� ب حه� �ل�� �� ��ل��د �ب�ا �� ا � ب ���ا � �م����ل��م �ل�� �م�� ��� ب�ل��لة�ب���� ��� ا ب�ل ا ا ا�م ةص �وك� ص ة �وا ��ر � ةم���� � او�م��� د � ب� � و ة� ب ر ة ة� ب ب ب � � � ب ا ا � ����� �� م ل��. ��س�و�� ���د ��ر �� ��� � �وا � ة ب ب � � � ب ب �و����� �م�ا �ا ��ة ة� �م بص ����ل � ب���ل ا �ع��ة� �م����ل��م� �ع ب��ده �م بص ك����ل �ل��� �ب��ر ا �ع��ة� ��ة� �ل��� ا ����� ب� �ة م م ��ا ب ة ا �ب � ب ا � �ب ب �� � �ب ح���ة ا �ل���ب����ا ب ���� �ب �� �ب � � � ب ���� �م ب ب��� ا ب� �����ا ��ل�� �ع ب � � ك�� � �م� ��ر �ة� ا ����� �ة�� �ل���� ا د ا �ط�ل� ع �ة� ص ص ةر ة � ة ر� ر �� � � � ���ا ب� �م�ا �� ��ب �ل��� ا �� ��ب���ل�ك � �ل��� ا ���� ب �ب ��س�هة��ا ة� �و�ل��� ا ل���� ���د ب�ه � او � ��ب���ل��م�ب��� �و�ل��� ا ���� ���� �وك� ح��� ��ر ب� و ب ر ة� ة بم � م م م ��ا ب ��� �ب ب��م � ب � ش ا ش � ب اة ا ة � ة ا ا ةب ا ش ب �� � ا �� ا ��ل �وك�� � ة �ر� ة� ع ��و ص ح���� ة���ص � او �ل�ب�� �� � � او ������� �ةر ا�م� ��و��� �و�م� ة���سب��� د �ل�ك �مص ش ا � �� ا �������� � ا �� ة� �م ب��� � ا ���� ب ��ر���ا ��ب� �م ةص ك� ����ة�ره �� �سو�ب� �ب��د �� ل��ا. بر ��� � و� ب و� ة ة بً � � � ب ب ة ب � � ب ب � ب ة ا ��ة�را ب�����د د �و�ة�ل ب��ا �م� د �ل��ك ا �ر ب���ل ا ����ر�ة� ا�ام�د ��و� ��� ���د �م����ل��م� �ب�ا ��� �ةر �و� ب��ة��� ة � ب ع �� � � ش � ا �ب �ة ��د � ا ��ل�� بد � �ه �ب �س � ة ��س�� ة ل ��را�� ةد�ل�� �م���� � ��را � ����دة��م�� �و�ه�و ب���هة��د �ع بص �س� د�ل ب��ا ��ر�� ا ��� � ة� ة� �و �ة� � ة ة م ��ش ب � � � ب ة ب ب ش ��ا ب� ا �� ��ة��د��� � �م ب �ه ب��ا ك ا ب���د�ب�ا ا ا ا ا ب ب � � � �ش�ل�� �ل� ا �مة�� �ل ا ���ل ا �و ا ���ر ��ل�م� �و���ل�� � �رل�� �� د�ةر �� ة ص وص ة ة � � � ب ب � ��ب �ة ا �� �ة �� ب � ب � م��ا ب� ا ��ل�� بد �ة� ب�كة��� ب���� ة� ا �����د ��� �و�ه�و ا �ل�� د ا ��� ك� ا �لب��ا د ��ة� ا ��� د ��ل��ك ا�ا ك� ه � � �� � � �� � � ط ب � ة ل ة ة ة ة� �ب ب � ب ا � ب � � ا��م � ش ب � � ب ة �ب ة ب � ة � � �ب ب �د ��ل�� ا �ة� د �ل�ك ���ل ا �ل��� �ر��� ا �ل�د �ة� � ك ��س���� �كة��� ا �لب� ��و�ل �و�م�ا ��ة� �ة ��و�� �م� � او ��������ل� ة � � �ب ب ح�� ا ��ل ش � ��ب � ���س� ��سس� � ب ة � �ك�� �ة��د ��ر ا �ل� ب ة �ل ���ر �. �س��ا � او � �م ة ة و� بع ب � � � ب ب � ب � � ة ب ب ة ا ا � � � � � �� �� ��د ا ��ص د �ل�ك ا �لب�� د �� ��� �هة� ك� � ���ل ا �����د � ة� ا �ل�د ة� �ه�و د ا ���ل ا �لب�ة��� � بو�����ده ح� ر ة �ة� � حب ب ا ة � ب�� ح�ة ب�لة�ب���د ا �ع ب��ده ��ب ا ��ل��د � ب�ك����د �م�ا �ة�ب���د�ل ب��ا ب با � ا � ا�ام�د ��و� � بو�����د � � � ة� ةر ب ة �صو��� ا � ����د ا ��ص �عر�م�� ا �لب�� د ��ة� ة� �ب�ا ب���د�ب�ا ا ��لب��ا د ��� �و���ا � ���د �و��ب�ا � �و ب��� ب� ب ا ة � � � � ا � ��ب ا �� ��ة��د ��م�� ا ��بل � �ر�ا �ب�� �و�م بص ب��م��لة�� ة ح�� ���ة� �ل�لك ا �ل��م� �ص ةر ة ة ة ب � �م ب ا ا �� ��ة ب ��ل ب �� ب � ا ���ا ا� ب � ��ا ب ب ة � � � ا � � � � � � ع �بر ب� � ا �ل�د ة� ك�� � ��ره� �ة ��و�� �م� ا � ح ب��ا �����ع�� �بر م ح���ص �مك� �ة��د ��ر ل�� ل�� ب� ا�م���د ��ص �وك�� � م ة ج �� � � � � ���دد �ه� ا ������ ب �ع ب��� ا ��ل�� بد �� �م��� ب ةص ا ش�ر�ه� �م بص ب��ة�ر ا ��ل�� بدة� بص ا �ب����د ��� او �ب�ا �� ك� ل��لة��� �و�ل� �� د � ا ةر ����� ا ش�ر. م ب� ةص ب ر ة ب م م 70
70
٢٦،٤
٢٧،٤
٢٨،٤
٢٩،٤
Chapter Four
pharaoh’s palace, the Citadel, Ramliyyah Square, the residences of the sanjaks, and other sites. We toured with the ghuzzī for three days, and learned our way around all the lanes and alleys and avenues. My master wished us to tour on our own, without a guide, as he wanted
4.26
to hunt for the things he typically sought out in every town: old medallions, old chronicles, diamonds, rubies, emeralds, peridots, and other such precious stones. He was also on the lookout for stones with medicinal properties, which few people knew about in the lands of the East. My master had a vast knowledge of the region’s valuable stones and obscure minerals, whose properties I will discuss in the appropriate place. As far as I could tell, this man was familiar with just about every science. He
4.27
was especially skilled in medicine. Just by looking at a person’s face, he’d know what his illness was, without asking about it! He was proficient in astronomy, geometry, philosophy, natural history, and physiognomy, and knew all the medicinal properties of the different herbs and plants, and other such things related to medicine. I witnessed many proofs of his skill, which I will recount in the appropriate place. After our tour with the aforementioned ghuzzī, my master decided to visit
4.28
the home of Our Lady the Virgin Mary in Old Cairo. It was three miles from New Cairo, more or less. When we arrived, we stopped at the Monastery of the Holy Basil.56 From there, the priest took us to the Virgin’s house, which is now surrounded by a Coptic church. We entered that noble place, where the Virgin and Saint Joseph and the baby Jesus lived for seven years, as the Holy Gospel recounts.57 We attended that priest’s mass at the temple of the Virgin, inside the house. Following the mass, the priest invited us to have lunch with him at the monastery, after which he took us out and gave us a tour, showing us all the ancient sites and ruins, including the storehouses of grain Joseph the Fair had built, as the Holy Book recounts.58 There were forty storehouses whose traces could still be seen. Those that had been completely demolished had left no trace.
71
71
4.29
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
�� � �����ده ��� �ب�ا �ب��د � � � � ب ا ب � �����د �م�ا د �ب�ا � �ة ب��� � ب ا ��ه ب��ا ا �� �م ا � ة � ة ب � و رب ��د�� ب�����ة�ر ر و� و ���ل ب�� ا �ة� ب��ة��� ا � ��ه�� ر بو بو ح�� � ب� ة� ب � � � � � ة � � ب ة � � حة ا �ب��� �ب� �م����ل� ��ا ���ب ط�� ا ا د ��ل��� � �����د �� ا � ا �ل���س� ا �� � ا � �� ا � �ا ب � � ة ل و ة ة� و و � �مة� ب ��� �و�ة� �و ب�� �ل��ص ا �� ب� ا �ل�د ك�� ���ةص �ة� ر � � ب �ش ة � � ب � ب � ة ش � ���د �ب�ا �ل���� ا �ل ا ب ���ا � ة� �� � �� ح�م�� �وك� �ة�� �وك� ح�� �ك ���ا � ك����ة�ر �م بص �ب�ا ��ص � ���� ��م� ح��س���م �ب�ل� ��ص ا ��م� �ة� ��ط��ل ب� �م � بل م ش � � � � ��ب���ة ش ����� �مب ���ا �ب�� ا ة ب� حةب� ��و�ل�� ك� ��س او �ل�� ���� �م�د ا �لة��ا ة� ا �عب��� ب���ل�و��ص ة��د � �وك� ��� . � ر ة � ة و ة� ة م م �ة � � �ة � � ب ب � � ا ب � ة � � ة � ب ا ا ا � م�� � � ا �ل ل ل� � ��د ا �ل��ة� � � ب���ل �كب� ��ط�� ب�� ب� �ل ب�� � ��و�ا ه � ك � م� � � � او � �صوب� ����ة� �� و ل ��و�� بل�ل���� � ���ر ة����ة� م ة �ة � ب � ب �ب � � ب ب ب اب ب بش ��سة� �م بص �ل����ا � ا �ل��� �ر�ا �ة� �ب ��ة ��و�ل�� �ل ب��ا �ب�ا � ����ل �ة��و�ا ه � ك ا �ل��د �ة� �ه�و �م�� � م�� �ص �وب�� �مص ��م� � ب� ��ة� ة ب ا� ا��ا ب �ة ا �� ب ب ب ة �� � ة ب ب ة �ب ا ��� ار �لة���ل �م� ك�� � �� او � ����� ةص ��ة� �م�دة�ل ب��� �س� ��ر ��ة� ا �ة�ا �م ا � ��� ار �ع ب��� � او � ��ة� �ل��ل�ك ا �ل��ة�ا �م ا ���و��� ة � ة ا�ب � �ب ش �� ب ة ة ب � � �ود �كب ك� ��ر���ا �م����ل��م� �ا د ة� ش�����ر�ة����ا �م ب��� � � ��ا �ب�� او لة ك �م� ك �� ب� �� او ����� ������ 1ل�م�ا ��ب� ل��ص ب����ر�ط ���ا � �ل�� �و ب�� ة بة � ب ش ب ���ا � � �� � �ب ب��� د ��ل��ك ا � ��� ب��ا �ع ���ط�ا �ب�ا ��ه ب��ا ب���د�ب�ا ���ا � ������ل ب��ا ��مب ا ا �ب�� ة�ب ة ا و ة� � رب ل ح�ب��ر��� ب�����د ك� م ة وم ر ة� ��� ا ب�������ةص � ة ب ش � ب�بة� ط�� ح����� � ��و�ا ه. �عر��ص ا ��ة�ا �ل ا � ك���ا ��� ة ب �� ب ة ا �� � ا �ب � ا ب � ا � ب ا ح�ص� ا �عب � ح�ة �ة�� � ���ا ����ل ��هة� � ��و�ا ه ا � �ل� �كب����د و � �ل�م� ا ��د��� �م���ل��مة� �� �� او ��� ا �ة� ا �لب�� د ��ة�� ة� م ب �ة ب� ا ب� ��بل ة ب ب ا ب ح�ص� ا ��� � ة ة ة �م�ا � � ��� ��م�را ���ا �ب��و ب���د �و���ا �ب�ا �ب����ا �ة��و�ا ه �و� ك ���لة ����� �مص ا �� ��ص د �و م�� �صو ب� كة� ح�هة ��ه � و � ة� بً ة � ب �ب � اب ح�� � ب� �ة ب � �ة ا �� � ب � ح�ة�ة �ع ب��د �م����ل ��ا �ب ��ا �ة ا ه � ط�� � � � � ا ا � ه � ل � � د � � � . � � � � ل � �� � � � ح ب��ص � ل�ك ��مة� ب �� �و� ة م��ر��� �ة� ����ل � ة ر �� ب ب � ة ا �� �� �ة �ل ب ا ا ��� � ب ا � ا �� � ة ة �ب ر ب���ل �مك� � �� ب� ��ةص �ة� ل. حة�ب�ً�د ���� �م����ل��م� �ب�ا � ���د ه ا �لة�صو�ا ه �ب�����س� او �ع ب��د �ة� ا ب������� ا ���� ة ة ب ش ب ب ً ب ة �عر��ص �و �ر� �ر��ا �ش���د �ة��د ��ة� �م ش�����را �ة����ا. ج � �� ب ة ��ة ة ب ة ��ً�ا � او �ش����رة�ل ب��ا ك�� ب� � �� او ة�� ��د �م �م بص ����ا�ةر ا �ل� �ل��� بص �م بص ����ل �ب�ل��د �و�م بص ��ة�ر �ب�ل��د ا �ة� ب� ب ج �ة � ب � با � ح�ة � ش ب ب�با ب � � � � ا �ح��ا ب��� ب��ا �ش����ةر�ة� �م������مل ل ا ا ل �� �� � � س د � �� س �س � ة� �و� ة � بو�����ده � �رل�� ���د �و� �ة� � �و �� � ر �ة� ة� � � ً ب � � � �ة ش ا ش ش � �ب ب ��ا � ا�م�ة�م ب��ا ة� �و ب� ���ا �م بص ب�� ح�� ك� ����ة�ره �م بص ا �بل� ح�ص�و� �حج� ا �ر�ر ب���ل ����ة� �مص د �ل�ك ا �ل��س�و� ا ��� ة � ب �ة � �ب � �� ب� � ش ب ا ا �ل ��ش �ة � ا �ش �ة �ل ب ا ه � ا �ا� � ب ا ب ��ش ب ب ب � �� حة��� ��م�بح�� � حة���ص �و���د ب بل����ره �و�مص �� ر� ��� رة �� ب� م�ة ر � ب �مص � �حج� �ة� �ب�ل�د ا ��ر ب ش � ب���م بص ا � بر��رد. ا � ب ب� ب ب ب ة � ش ب بة ب هود �ة� �و���� � ��� ا ل ك� �و�ة��و�م ا �ر ا ب��ا �ب�ا � ب���ل �ة�� � ��ا � �م��ر�ة��د � ش�����ر�ة� ب��ا � �� ةم�ب��� ������لة���ل�� ���ه� ة م ب ب ب ب ة � �ة �ب �ب ش ب ا � � �� ب ب � ب ا �� � � ب���ة��� ا ��ل �� �ر�� �������د �ب�ا �م���� ح ��وة� �م���ة���� م��� ا ة� ا � د ��ل�� ا ة� �وك ���ا �ل�� ا �ع��ة� ��ا � �و�كة�� ة� ة � ب ا ب ً �ب ة ب ة � � ب ب ّ � � ب � ب � ب ا ا ا ب � م � � � � � � ا ���� ا ��� � ك� �س��را �لب�� ب� ��لة��� .ا ��ة را �م ���� �و� � م�� � �ود ��ل�� ا �ة� ا �و� � ��س��د �و� ��دد رب��ة� ة ة� ج « 1ا ف� ف� ي��ل�ك …���ل ي » ف� ا �ل���ا � ش م��س. يى ر� يى � و يى
72
72
٣٠،٤
٣١،٤
٣٢،٤
٣٣،٤
٣٤،٤
Chapter Four
We toured and saw the sights, and returned to our lodgings at the consul’s
4.30
home. From then on, we began to tour on our own, with no guide. We’d go through the souks and coffeehouses, and sit and chat with the shopkeepers. It soon became common knowledge that my master was a doctor, and many people would come to see us to be treated. He’d see them for free, asking only that they hunt for medallions—that is to say, ancient coins—and they’d bring great quantities to him. One day, a Coptic man brought us a Torah on a roll of parchment. It was
4.31
written in Estrangelo, which is derived from the Syriac language.59 He claimed that this Torah had been copied during the time the Israelites lived in Cairo, in the days of the pharaohs. Paper didn’t exist at that time, he explained, and people wrote on parchment. When my master saw it, he wanted to buy it from the man, but on condition that he could first study it for a few days. The man agreed, and gave it to us. We settled on a price of forty riyāl piasters, if it was indeed a genuine Torah. My master showed it to the priests, who examined it to determine whether
4.32
it was in fact a copy of the Torah. After studying it, some people with a knowledge of the language concluded that it was truly a Torah, and that it contained the Book of Genesis. Convinced of its authenticity, my master paid the man the forty riyāl piasters for it, as we’d agreed. “To me, that Torah is worth four thousand piasters,” he said, and was very pleased with his purchase. We bought old chronicles written in the various languages from those and
4.33
other lands. We continued to tour the streets of Cairo, and at the jewelry souk my master bought many valuable stones, and an especially large quantity of peridots. Because of the abundance of this stone, we bought it cheap in bulk. In Frankish lands, this stone is worth as much as an emerald! One day, a Jewish man came to see us and asked me if we wanted to buy valuable stones. “Yes,” I replied. “Follow me,” he said. We followed him to a wikālah, a sort of guesthouse or caravansary, and went up to the top floor with him, where he took us into a room and shut the
73
73
4.34
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
اة ة ب ا ب � � ب ا ب ا ��ل � ا ا��مة ب ش ا� ا و��� د �و�م�ا � ش��س��� بد ��ل��ك �م ب ا ب��ل �� �و��� � ة�ربج �ل�� �مص ب�� � ��م��� �م���ل ا�م� ��ص � �وة� ���و� � ر ة ب ص �وا ��ر � ���ا � � حة ح�ة�ب� ا �� ���� ة� ا �� ��ةهب �حج � �����د �م�ا �ب�����ل�� �م���� �ة��ل�� ا ��ل ا�م�ة�م ب��� ب�ك ب�صة �مب �� � � ��� �م���� � � � ل � ك � � � م ب و � � � � � � ر ة� ة� ة ب ة ب ة� م ة� م م ب � � � ب �� � � � ب ب � ا �ةك ب � � � ا �ه � ب ة � � ا ا � د� ب ب ب � ���ك ا �ل�د � � �وك ���ا � �م� ا�م�د ��و� ا ��ر�مص ا �ل����ل������ ا �ة� ب �مة�� ا � ��ه�� � ة�� ��را �ل�دة�ص ���و ب��و ة ص م ع ع � � ب � � ��ب� ��ل��د ا ��ل ش��� �ة� ��ا ب� �س���م�ا ���ط��ل� ا �بل �وا ب��� ب� ��و��ل � ��وك� طوه. ���ا �م بص ا �ل��د �ا �ه� ���لة��� �� � �� ة ب ر ب ب م ب ً � � ش � ب � ب � ب � ة ب � � ب � ا ��ة�را �د �ب�ا �رب� �م بص د �ل��ك ا�ا ك� � ����ة� ا �ل� ب� ش���ر ��ط ا بل �� بر��د ا ��ولة �� م��ا � ������ل ب��ا ا �ل� � � � � ة�ه�ود ة� ة ج ب ب م م ة � ا ب ل�� ب ب � � � � � � � ب � � ب ا ا � � بل�ة� م � � � � �م�ا ب����ب ة� �وا �ب� �ل���ر .حة��ً�د ا ���د �ل�� �م���ل��م �ب� ��� بة� ��� بل���و���� �ب�ا بل �� ح�� ��ط ا �ل���ر �ل� ة�� � كب����ده � � ة� ة م ا ب� � ��ل ب��ا ب �ب�ا � � �� ��������ا � �� ب� ب ب�� ة� �م ب ا�ا�م�ا ��ل � ة��ا ��ل ��ل ب��ا ��ا ب� ���� ب �ب�ا ب �ب�ا �م��ل�ك �م ب م � ل���� و ربج � � ب �و ر ب ة و ة ر ب ص ص ب ش � ب ة �ا ب ة � � �م��ل�وك ا ��ل��ةرك �ب��ل�م�ا �ة�ا �م��ل ب�كة��� �م����ل��م �ا ه �ب�ة������ا �و�ة� �م�ا �ل ك���ة�ر ��م�ا �ا د ة� ش�����ر��� ا ��م�ا ���ل�� ا بل ك� �� � ة� ة ة ش ب�لة��ة���ل� ���� �م بص ����ل ب��ب�ا � ب���� ب�� ب�� ��ا � ب������ر�ة���� . ع ة ص م � � ب � ا� � ة ب ب � ب ا ا با ا ب ب � ل�� ب� هود �ة� �مص د �ل��ك � بو�����ده ا � �حج� ا�م� ��ص ا �� �سود �� �� �ب� ا �لة� � �مص ا �ل��س��د �و�� ��لب��� د ا ��� � ربج � ة � ب ب� ش ب بة ة ة � ب �ب�� ا ������ة � � ش ع���رة� بص ��ة�را ��ط �ب�ا د �ه �م بص ا �ل ب�ص او د � ����ة� � �رة��د �ك�����ل�� ���ل ب� �م����ل��م� ��ة� د �ل��ك و� ب� و ة ب ب ��� � � � �� � � ب ل ا ��ل ب ب ة � ���دا �ل �م�ا �ب ���ا � � �� �� �ل �ل�� � ��س�و �م�ا �ه�و ���ل�ة��� ���و�ة�� ا ب�ل �ه�ود �ة� �ب�ا � ���د ا ا ب� � � ل ل� ج � � ح �حج� �م ب � ة و ة� ب � ص � ع ً � ة ة ب ب ب ب ة � � ب ب ة ش ا ا ا ا ب �ه�ود �ة� �ب� ��� ���ل���� �ك ك� ��� � �� �� � ��� ���د �م����ل��م� �ب� ��� ة������ر�ة� ح� ���� ��� .ا ��ة�را ا ���ب��� ا �لة� ب��ة�� � م ة م � �� ب � � ا ��ل � �ب �ب ب �ً�� ��ل��ل�� �ة� ���طج�م� بد ��ل��ك ا ��ل�ه� د �� �و�م�ا ����� د ������ر ��ا ب�ا � �م���� �ب�ا � ة � � ح��ا ��ل ���لة��� ل� ج � � ح د �ل�ك ب ة� � ة ة ة و ة ب و ة صر ب بع ش � ح� ب� �ة � � � � �� � ة ا �� ��هبة ب �ا اا � ط�� �ب�ا �ب�� ب��ا ����ل ��م ب��� �و�م�ا ب�لة���ر�� �كة��� ا بل ك� �م � ���ل� ��و م��ه� ا �ة� ب�ة��� �� �� � �ه�و ا�م� ��ص ة ��ر ج ة ج ب � �ه ب��ا ك ب�ب � حة�ب��ر ����ل ب�� �حج� � �وب�������ل�� �م����ك. و �� ً � � � � � ب ل ب � ب ب ب ا � ة ���د ا �ل ب ب � �ه� �ب��ر ب� �حج� � �وة�ا ���د �وه �م ب��� �ب�ا � بر�و� ا � ��. ��ا �ب�ا ء ا �ل� ��س��ا ب�� ة�ه�ود �ة� �ر��� �لة��ل� �ة� �� � ً ح�ة �ة ب ا � ا ب ا ب ���� .ا ب��ة�ًرا ��ا ب��ل ���د ة���� �ب� ب�كة��� � �و�ل�� ة ب� ا ب��ة�را � ��ا �ب� �م بص ����ل ب� ح��د �� حة� ب �ه�� �ل�� �ب� � �م� ���د� ا � ر ب �ة ا �� �ة ب ب ا � ة �ة � � ب ح���د � ة ب � ة ا ب��ل ح�م� ��ر�� ب ��ر �و�ه ب��ا ك د ���ل ب��ا ه ا ��ة� ا �و� ��� �ه�� ح�ة� ا �� ��ط�� �ل� �م�ه ب��ا ا ��ة� ب��ة�� ة� ا � ��هب�� �� ة ع �� � ا ��ل��ة ب��م�ا ب � �م����ل� � ا � ة �م���� ا �� ��ةهب � �ش�ل�� ش� ����ا ��� ة� �و�����ده ب� ب� ���د ��ه � �� �س��ة��ا � ا � � � ح� � � � � م و و و ر و � ر و ر ب ة� ج م � � �ب � ب �ا �م ا ش �ة ا � � �ل ة� ا � � � ب ة �ب ة ا ا م � � � � �ه�ود �ة� �و�ا �� �� �ل ���ب��ة��ل�� �و�م� �د �� ا �عر� بل ك� ا �لة� ج ة �� م ���� ر ه م�� ��مة� �و �م �ل���ر ��ة� ا ب ��� . �م� ب��ة�� � م ة � �ب ا �ة ب� ة ا � ب ًا ا ب ���د �ب�ل�� � � ���د �م بص ب��ا � ا � ب��� �رب����ا � �و�� ا �ش����ةر�� ب�� ا �حج� �س�ص�و� �م بص � او � � � ��� �ب� � ���� ة�� � و ة ة �ج ة � ب ب ب ش �ة � � ب � �ب ا � � �ب ��� � �ب ا ��ش ب �� �ر�� ��ا �� او ه ا ��ة� �م����ل��م� ���ل�م�ا ��ب� ب��م�ا �ة�� �س� ��ره �ا د ة����� ر�ة� م�� �م� �ا د ة�ب��ة���� �طج�م��� �ة� �مص ة ة 74
74
٣٥،٤
٣٦،٤
٣٧،٤
٣٨،٤
Chapter Four
door behind us. He opened a Frankish steel trunk, and began taking out valuable stones: diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and other precious jewels. My master selected a few stones and, after they had settled on a price, said to the man, “Follow me to the home of the consul, so I can pay you.” My master had an order from the French realm to all the consuls in the lands of the East, stipulating that they were to grant the khawājah Paul Lucas all the money he asked for. As we prepared to leave, the Jew said, “I’d like to show you something, on
4.35
condition that you swear to keep it a secret.” My master assured him that he would keep the secret safe, and that he had no reason to worry. The man took out a bejeweled belt worth a fortune, and told us that it had once belonged to a Turkish king. My master studied it and saw that it was worth a great deal of money. Although he wasn’t interested in buying it, he made the fellow an offer. “If you pry some of those stones out of the belt for me, I’ll buy them.” The Jew refused. He took a box out of the trunk. Inside was a black diamond
4.36
weighing twenty-four carats, a true rarity. My master set his heart on acquiring it. “This stone has been dyed,” he said to the Jew. “This is not its natural color.” They disputed over it for about an hour. The Jew swore it was authentic. My master had every intention of buying the stone, but was afraid the Jew would become greedy and refuse to strike a deal with him. So he pretended he was ignorant of the stone’s value and had no knowledge that it was a real diamond. “Come with me to the consul’s home,” he said to the man. “I’ll examine the stone there and settle on a price with you.” The Jew refused, fearing that if people found out about the stone, one of the
4.37
sanjak s would seize it. We promised him that we wouldn’t tell anyone about it and that he had no reason to be afraid. After much back-and-forth, we convinced him to come with us to the house. Inside the consul’s chambers, he met privately with the consul, a translator, and my master for three hours. Finally, the Jew emerged and went on his way. I had no clue how much my master paid for the stone, and the matter remained between them. On another occasion, it happened that one of the French merchants had bought an engraved stone for one hundred miṣriyyahs from a peasant. The merchant showed it to my master, who, upon seeing it, wanted to buy it.
75
75
4.38
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
ب � ً ب ��بم�ا �ب .ا ب��ة�را �و���� �م���� ��ب� ا ��ش�م ب ا ��� �م�اة�لة��� ب �و ب��م����� ب ب�ع ��شص ��م�ا �ا د �ة���ة����� ب��ا � م�� ��ر�م ب��� � ا � ح� ل ةص ةص ر ب ص ة ص ة ش ة� � � حة � ب � �ب �ل � � �ة � � � ة ة ب ب � ش ا ا ا ب ب � � � � � � � � � � � � � � ل ه � � او ��سم �� � �� ��لة�� ل �� ��ر �ة� �ةل�لرم� �ة� بة��� ب� ��و�ل� �ل� �ب� � ب �مة�� �م� ب����� ر�ة� مص ب � �ه �و��ة ر ة ع ب � � ب � � �� � ب �ب � ة ب ب ة � ب ب ب ب ا ا ا ش ا ب ب � � � ل ل ��� �ه� � ا ��� �����ل��ط� � � ������ . حة��ً�د ا � ��ه�� ��رد �� د �ل�ك ا �� �وا ب��� � او �ر�م�� �ة� � ر ا ��سة�� ب �مة�� � ة ر ب� ا �� �ب ب ا � �� ا ا �ل �ل � ا ب ا ة �حج � ا ب��د � �ة ا ب� �� �ك�� د ���ر�ب�ا. ��� �م ��� ��م� ��د � ة�� �� �� ع�ط� ه ب � � و � ح� ب ة� � � � �ب � � ب �ب � ب � ب � � �ب ةص ا � �ر��ب� ا ��ة� ��ا �هة ا�ام�و� �� ��د �ل� �مص �ل� ��� �و ��ة� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل���ة�ا � ا ب��ا � او � �س�� ا ع��ة� ة ة ب م ج ا ة ة ��ا ا �� ب��� � � ا �ع ���ط ��� ه ا ��� � ا � � ب ب � �� ة ب �� ��ا �ب�� �و ب���د ب� ح����د ���و�مة��� ج و �ة� ر ة� و �� �ه ب� � رب ��د �مص ��دا �م ا ��ه�� ر ب ة � � �� � � ب � ب � � ب�ً�ا ��لة��ل�� ����م� ب�كة��� ا ��ل ���� �ل�� ب� ���لة��� �ةكة��د ك� � ك� ح��ا � ب�لة��ا ب���د �وه � �وب�ة�ر����ل�وه �ل�ل����ل�� ����� �و�ل�� ا � ���د ��و � م ة ع � شة ة � � ب � ا� ا ب � ���د بل� ب�� ب � ب � ب � ح�ة �ة���ة���� ه �ل�ل�ة���ا � ب��ش�م ب ب�لة����د � ة������ر�ة�� �و�ل� ب���ل د �ل��ك �م� ب��ة��ص�و ب��د � او � ة ب ح���وه ا � ����ل� ���ةص ة� ب و ص � � ب � ة ب ة ب � �ب � �� ب ا ��را � ب��� ار �ع ب��� � � ��� ��ة� �و���د ا ب��ة�� ب�صو ب���د �رب� ا ���ه�ا �م�ا ة� 1ا �ع��ة� �كب �صو� �م��ل�وك �س� ل��ص و ب �وده �� د � ة � � �س��� ب ح ة� �ة�ل�� ��ل �م�� � �����د �م��ا ة� � ب �ل�� ب� �ةل��ل�ك ا � ��ةبه �صو� ��رد �و�م�� � ���د � �� ةص ب��ة��ة ب�� ��ة� �ب�ا ب� ب�ل � � و � ة ة ل ب � ةج �ب ��مب� ا �� �م�� �ع ب �ةل��ل�ك ا �� ��ةه �ص � �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل�� ا ب��� �بك�ة� ���ط��ل��� ا ا �� ��ب��ل����� ب ا� حة��� � ب م �� �ش � ��� ���ب� ب�لة� ك ب و� و � ة� ب و ةص ب رة ص رل ص ب �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل���ا ب��� ب�ل ��ب���ة ش � ا � ب ا � ح�ة �ةر� او ة�ب��ر ب�كة��� ب� ���د بةل� ب�� ب� ح����د �س��ب��ر � او د ا �ا � او � او � ح��وه ة� ة ��س او � �وب� �ل�� د � ة� ��ل�ل��ة � �����د ��� ب ا ةص ب��ة��ب�ةس���وه ب�� �. بو � � � ب ب � � �ل� � ا � �ب � � �ة ة ب � ا �� ��هبة ب ا �� ب � � ا ب ب ب ب ���ل�م�ا �م����ل��م� ا ���د �ب��ر ����ل ���و مة�� مص د ا �ل�ك ا � د م �لل�وك� ا �ب� ر �� ��ر �و رم� �ب� � ة ب ة � � � � �� ا ب ة ة ة � ب ب ب ا ب � � � � ح��ده ��ة� ح� ��ة���ل ����ل ���و�مة��� �ل���� �� د � �و ��و��� � او ��� ��و ة� �م� به �صو�ل �ع��د ����ل�ط� � ة�لب��د �ل ب� � ً ����ة ب� � � ب � � �ة ة �ة �ة � حب ب � � ب �ب �ب����ا ء� . ��رد �ل��ك ا � ����ل�� � ا ��ة� �ع ب��ده ��� ار � او �ب� ر م�� حهة ���� ��ر � او � � حة�ب�ً�د ا ������ل ا � ��هب�� ر ج � � � � ب ب � ب � ط ح����د ا�ام���� ��ا ��ا ��� ا � ����ل� � ��ا ��� � � � �ود �ع ب��ده ���� ب� �ود �ع ب��ده ح�م � ���و ب�� ا �ل���ر ����ل �ه�و ���و ب�� بر ب ب ل ة ج ب بج � ب� ب������ ش��م ب��� �م���� ��م�ا �لة��� ب � ب��م����� ب ح���� ��ا � بم ةص ب�عر��شص ب� ش���ر ���ط �ب�ا �ب�� ة ب� ���د ة����ر�ب� ب�كة��� �ب� ب��ب���ة�ر ا � ا � ��� ب ة ةص و ب �ل ب ة ة � � ب ب � � ب � ب ب ا �ة ب�� �ة � �� او ����� د �ل��ك ا �ل���ر � بو�����ده �س���� ا � ����ل�� � ��ة� ��ا �ل ���ب��ة���ل��. �� ة ج ة � � � �� ب� ة ب ���ا � �ة ��و� ا ب��ا ا � ��ب��ل�� � �و�م���� ك� �و�����د ك� �و� ا � ��هب�� ���ا �م ��م��ل �م بص ا �لة��� ببص �ود ���ل��� ا ة� ا � ��ر ب م م ج م ب ً � � �ة � ب ا ا ��د� ب � � حة ��بهة��ا ��لة��ل�� �ة ب��� ب�ع��� ا ��ل����ا ��� �و ب� � � ح�ة� �ة�ب��ة�� ��� �بر�ود �م� �ب�ة����س� ا ��� �ل�ل���� ة���ص �و ��ط�ل ب� ب �م � � و ر ةص ة ة م م م � ���ا ب� ����ا � ��ة�ً�ا بد ��ل��ك ا ب��ل �و� �و ب�رب� �ب��و ب���د بد ��ل��ك ا ��بل � ح����د ا�ا�م��ب��ر ب��ا �ب ��ة��ا �ه� ��ب� ا �ل�� ب� ��ا د � ا ��ل�� بد �ة� ك� � ب ة م ج م �ب �ب ��م � ب �ل ا ��� ا �� ��ة � � ا �� ��ة � � � � � ب � �ة �ة�� � ا� � � ة � � ا ب ب ب ب ه ه ا � �� � � م � � � � ح � � � ��ر �ة� ب ة�ة�� �م� م � ح�� للك ا�م�و ة�� و ل� ب� � ة ب� ر � ��ر �ة� ح�� م�� مص ب � ة ع 1ال�أ�ص� :ا ل�م ا�م�ا ي �. ل ر
76
76
٣٩،٤
٤٠،٤
٤١،٤
Chapter Four
But the man didn’t want to sell. My master tried to tempt him by raising the price, to no avail. He offered him 250 piasters, and the man still didn’t want to sell! Exasperated, he complained to the consul, insisting that he force the man to sell the stone. “Everything I buy, gemstones or otherwise, is for the treasury of the sultan of France!” he told him. So the consul sent for that khawājah and forced him to sell the stone. Powerless to refuse, he handed over the stone and accepted the money. Around that time, a peasant from the countryside came to the Mouski quar-
4.39
ter, where the Frankish merchants lived. Speaking in confidence to one of the consul’s servants, he told him that he’d found a mummy. There was a ban on selling mummies, and he was afraid that if the authorities found out about it, they would confiscate it for the royal treasury. Whenever a mummy was discovered, the peasants would hide it away so they could sell it to a trader for a high price. Mummies could be found near the pyramids—the tombs of the pharaohs of Egypt—but they were rare, as the tombs were covered by sand dunes. Only after a few hundred years might it come to pass that a windstorm would blow away the sand, revealing the tombs, and the sharecroppers would go looking. On rare occasions, they might find a tomb containing a preserved body. When they did, they’d hide it, selling it to the merchants a while later. When my master learned about the mummy from the servant, he imme-
4.40
diately relayed the news to the consul and insisted that no effort be spared to obtain it. A mummy turned up so rarely, and the sultan of France would be enormously pleased to receive one. The consul had the peasant brought to him in secret, and interrogated him to determine whether he had indeed found an embalmed body. The peasant replied that he had. They settled on a price of 250 piasters, on condition that the peasant bring the mummy to him without anyone seeing it. Once they had agreed, the peasant went on his way. A few days later, the peasant returned with some loads of straw. He brought them into the consul’s stable to sell to the stableman, asking a higher price for the straw than it was worth; that way, there would be no risk of the stableman unloading it and accidentally discovering the preserved body. Leaving the straw in the stable, the peasant went outside and found the servant with
77
77
4.41
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
ب� � ب � �� ب� ب� ة � ب �و� �صو��ل ا �� ��ب��ل�� � ا ������ ب��ا � ��ره �و����ا �ل�� ����ل ب��ا ب� �م���� د �ل��ك ا�ام�د ��و� ك� � حب� ��ر �و��ا �ل �ب�ا � ل ج � � ب ب ب �ب ة � � � ة ب � ب ا ا ا ب ب ب � ب � � � � ل � � � � � � � ا � � ه � �ر� او �و���� او � �� او ���د � �م� �� � ا م� م�� �ود ع��د � ا �ل�� ل � ا �ل��دة� بص ��ا ���و�ة� �ع�� �ب� �� ��و ب � ب �ة� � �م م حة ا �ل�� ا �� ا ��ل ا � �كب � ب � ب ة ���ا � ��م� �ة�� ب � � ة ��ا ��� ��ب ��ب ش��مب � �ك � � � � � �� ك � � �� � � ��م� � � ���هب�ة��� ك� م �ل بص و ب ب ة� ة � م ة� رة� ة� � حب�س���م ا ��ة� ا و ةص ب ش �ب � ب ة ب �ب� ��ط��ل ب� �م بص �� ب� ����ل�ك �ب�ا � ة�ر�����ل �ة�ا ��ره �ب�ا � ة� ش�����ر�ة���� �مب��� ب���م بص �م�ا ����د ا. م ة ا ب � ش �ة حة حة ا ب ب � � ا � �و �ة � ا �� �ع ب��د ا �� ��ةهب�� � ب � � ا ���ش ب رب ة� ��ر �ة� ة�لب �صو��ص �ة��ده �ة� �ة� د � �ل�ل���� ة���ص �ب� �� ة����� ر�ة����م �ب��د �ل�ك �مص � � � ب � � ا� ة ب � � �و ��ب� بد ��ل��ك ا�م �وده د ا ب���ل د �ل��ك ا �لة��� ببص � او �ع�ط� ه ���ل ا �ع ��ط�� ا �ش���ا �ه �ل��ل�هب�� ��ر �ب�ا � ا�ام�و�مة��� ���و ب�� ة ة � � � � ب � ب � � � ة ة ب � ب ب ب ة ب � � ش ب ا ا ا ب ا � � ��� د �ل��ك ا بل ��ل� �م�� ا ل � ح����د ��� � � �� �ب� �ل��د �ة� �� �ل�� �ل�� ا � ����ل� �� . حة��ً�د مو ب�� �ة������� ا� � �ود �كة� ���م ا ��ه�� ر ج ة بب ةا � �� ب � � ب � اب شة ةب با ا � ا ب� ����ك � ح���� ��د �ع ب� �� �ل �ل�ل���ل�ج ا د �ع ب� ا �� �ب� ��را �ل���� ة���ص �ب� � ة������ر�ة� �م��ك ����ل ���بص � بو���� �� ة � �ة ب ب� � ة � �� ب �ب � � ا �و� �و ب���ل��ص �ع ب��د ا �لة��� ببص �و ��ة� د �ل��ك ا ���و�ك ة� ا ������ل ا � ��هب�� ا � ����ل��ج� ا ��ة� ا �ل� �� ��ر �ود ع�ة� ا �ل���� ة���ص ا ��� �ع ب��ده � ا �����ل�� ��ب ��م���ا ��� ا ��� �ش�س��د � ا �� ه ��ا ب� ���� ���ط ا ��� بد ��ل��ك ا �� ��ب��ل�� � �ة � ة ب ج � و� ة ة� � ة و ر ب ة �ة� ة� ة� ة� �� ا �ل���بص � ب � � ب ب � ب ة � ب ب � ب ة ب � � � ا�ا�م�د �� � �� �ع��ا ��� ������ �� ا � ��� � � ة ب ا � ب �� � او �ع ��ط� �ل��ل���ل� � � ع او ا �ل���بص ��������ل ا �ل���� ة���ص �مك� ا ��ره ا ��ه�� ر و� و ة� ة ب ب ةب و ة ر ة� ج ب ا � � ا ب � ب� ب ا �� ة � ب �ب ب� ا � ا �ب ع او ل��بص �ة� عة�� �ب� �و���� ر. �ة� �ة�ب�� ب��� � او ��ر�� د م� �ب� ����� ة��ر� � �� �م ب�ك����د � ا ا ب ا �� � ا � ��ةهب� ا � �د ب �دا � � � ا � ه � ا ب � � ا � � ب � � � ة ب� حة� ب� ��ل�� ��ر �� �� م� و �ر ب� � ة � ب م� ���� �ر � ��ل � ��س��ر �ب� ب� ا �ل���و و � ا� �ب ة ا � � � � ب� ب ة ع او ا ��لة��� ب ا ��� ��� ب �م�ا ة�� ا ��ل����ا ��� ب� ب������� بد ��ل��ك ا ��بل ا �ك�� ا ��ره ا � ��هب�� ��ا د �م �م ةص ل ��ر �مه��ج �و�ل� ة��ر� � بص ة ةص ب ة� ً ب � � � � � ��ا ب���د ا ل��� �و ب��ا ب� ��ل�� ا�ام�بهة��ا � � او �و���د ا � ��ب��ل�� � �ب�ا �ب�� ��� ا ��ب���د ة ب� ��ا ����� �مة�صو ا �لة��� ببص .ا ب��ة�را � ة ة ة � ج ج ة � ا �� � ا �� ��ةهب� ا �� ا ب �سب�� �م ب ا ��ل��ل�� �ب� �ب � � �ب ا � ة ا ��بل �دا � � ب � � ب ��ر �ة� � �� ص ة �ل ���� و� م� �� . ���طب� ر � � �و� �هو� حة�ب�ً�د ب�ر�ل �ل�ل�� �� ة م ب � ب ب � �م� �ل ب���ة �� � ��ة�� ة � � ��ب ��� ش����� ا � ��ة ا ش��� ��ل�� ا �� ��ب��ل�� � �عب����ا �ب ا �و بد ��ل��ك ا ب��ل � و �� ��م� ��ط و � ح����د �م��ل� ��و�� �وا �ل�لك ا لة ر ة� ر ج ة � ةة � � �ب ب � � ب ب�� ا �� ��هبة ة ب � ب � � ة ة � ا ا ب � � � � ا �ب ��� ��ل ��ر �و�ر ��وه �ة� ا �و� ��� مص ا �و ص �� ��ر ة� �� �����د �وه ا �ة� ب��ة��� �ه�� ط� ل��� � �س� ��ر ع � � � ب ة ب ةب ��را�ام�هة��ا � . �و������ل� او ا �لب��ا ب� � او ���د ا � ��هب�� ج ب � ش ب ب �ة �وك�� ���ل ���د ا ���ا � � او �ب�ا �م�ا �م��ه ب�ب��ر ��ب� ����� �م بص ���د ا ا �ل�� ب�����د ب�ر�و ب� ح ب��ا �م بص �م�دة�ل�� ة ة ة� �ب ب � ��ا ��� �م����ل� ��ب ب��م�� ا ب �� ح�ب��د ا �� �ر�ب�ا ه ��ب� ب� �س� ح�ص�و��ص ����ل ���و�مة��� �وك�ة ��� ا ����م� ح ك� ة� �مة� ة� ة ��ر� .ة ً ع �م� د � ة � � ب ب � ب � ب ا ب� ب� ا � ا ا � � � ب� ا � � � ا �بل ا � � � � ب � ب ح ��و��� �و م� � ���ا � �م���� ب�ب��ر د �ل��ك ا � ����ل�� �. ��� �و�ل� د �ل�ك �� د ا �ل�د ة� ك ��د عر� كة� م ج ب � ً ة ا � ب ا �� �ع ب � ا ا � �� ا �ةك ا �� � ب ة ا ب��ة�را ب�����د ك� ��ر �و ح� ���ا �م �ة ��و�م ا ������ل ا � ��هب�� �س��د �و�� ��ر ة� ��ده ب � � �و ع�ط� ه ة�� ص ا ب� � ة � � � ��س��د � �ة� �م ب د �ب� �مة��� ب ط� ��ب �ب����ب� ا ��ل ب ةص �وة ب� �����ل ��ل�� �����ل ��ا ��ل ��ط�و�ل�� �و�عر ب� ع ة� ���� � او ��ره �ب� �� ة ب و ص 78
78
٤٢،٤
٤٣،٤
٤٤،٤
٤٥،٤
Chapter Four
whom he’d first shared the news about the mummy, and told him to inform the consul of his arrival. When the consul heard that the peasant had arrived, he sent for him and asked if he’d brought the object of interest. But the peasant apparently had bad news. “The people who told me they had it went back on their word and canceled the deal,” he said. “So I gave up. I did bring some loads of straw to sell you, but now your stableman wants to bargain me down. Could you please tell him to pay what I ask?” As the peasant approached the consul to kiss his hand—imploring him
4.42
to permit the stableman to buy the straw for that price—he signaled that the mummy was inside the straw, and made a gesture indicating which sack it was in! Catching his meaning, the consul dismissed him. “Off you go,” he said. “I’ll tell the stableman to pay your asking price for the straw.” The peasant went out to the stable and sat by the straw. Meanwhile, the consul summoned the stableman and ordered him to deliver a message to Rosetta, but to pay the peasant first and have the straw unloaded while he was away. The stableman did as the consul bade him: He paid the peasant for his straw and ordered a servant to unload it during his absence, and left. After the stableman departed, the consul sent one of his servants to lock the
4.43
stable door and bring him the key, telling him to unload the straw only after the stableman returned from Rosetta. The servant did as he was told and brought the consul the key, promising the peasant that he could return the next day to get his empty sacks. The consul waited until midnight, when all the servants were asleep. He and my master then went down to the stable and opened the sack the peasant had indicated. In it they found a body wrapped in strips of Egyptian linen. They brought it up to the consul’s house, left it in a room, and locked the door, the consul pocketing the key. This all happened without me knowing a thing about it! It wasn’t until after
4.44
we’d left Cairo that my master told me the whole story about the mummy and how they’d hidden it without anyone finding out—not even the servant who’d first heard from the peasant. A few days later, the consul sent for a carpenter and gave him the dimensions for a trunk. He ordered him to make a partition in the middle using a
79
79
4.45
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
�ا ب ا ��ل ا � � � � ب � ب�ك � � � ا ا ��لب� ا ا ��ل ب ة ��م�ب���ل�� ب ب��ة�ر�مب�� ط���ر� بص 1ا ب��م�ا ة�لب ��ةع ب� � ك� ��س��د �و�� م�� � ب���� م�ة ر �ل� ��ة ر ب���د ة ��وم ب�� ب� ب�� � ةص ة � ب ب � � �ل� ا� ب � ة ة ب � ب �� د ا �ب شب � � ا ب � � �م��م� ��و�ل �مك� ا ��ره ا � ��ه�� ��ر ����ة� �� �ة�� �م� لة���و� � بو�����ده د ���ل د �ل�ك ا بح����د ا�م�د ��و� ��ل ب � ب ة �ب � � ب ����� �ب�� �ة�� �م ب ا ��ب ��ةم�ا �ش���ا ة� ا ��ل ���ل�� ا �عب��� ب� ار ب� � حب� �و ��م�ا �� ا �ل��س��د �و�� �ة� ا ���و��س ��ط �و ب� ل و ص ر ة م ة � � � ل��ة� حب� ا ���شم�ب��� � ��ا ب� �ب�كة�� �و�م�ا ة� ش��س��� بد ��ل��ك �م ب ا ��ل�� ���د � �وب�� � ح�ة� ا ب�لة��� �و ب��� ا ��� او � ط���ر���لة��� ا �و�ل و ب ة ص ة ة� ب � ةع � ب � ب � � ط� ب � ا� ة ة ة � � �ع ��ط � ���ل� ا �ل ب ��س��د �و�� �و�ع�ب�� �م بص �ل��ل�ك ا � ����م�ا �ش���ا ة� ا�ام�د ��و�ه �و ب��� ا �لش��ا �ة� � �وب����ر�ع�ط� ه �� و ب ب ةًا �� �ب �ب � � � ��� �مك� �����ل �ة� ا �ل��و�ل. ا �ة�� ب � � ة � ب ب ب � ب ة ب ة ب � ���د ا ������ل�� ا � ��هب� � ة � ا ا �ل ب ��س��د �و�� ��� ا � �� ��� ل���رك �م بص اة�ل ب��ا �و ب��� ك� ���ا � �ةر� او د ا ���ل�� � و ��رح�ة� ا د ا ��و ة ب ة � � �� ة ا ش ا ة ا� ب �� ه � �ة ب � � ا ��ل ب �ة ��م � ا �� � ب � ا ش �ة �ل ب ا ه �م ب ا ا �ب �مص �ل�لك ا ����م� ���� � ا�م�د ��و� �وب��ه� د �ل�ك ��س��د �و� �و ب ة� ع ل�د ة� ���� رة �� ص � ��ة� ة حة � � � ب�� ا �� �� ب ���ة� � ب��� ا �ش�س��ا ���ش�� ه �ع ب��د ا �� ��ةهب � � ا ك �� � � � � ��د � � �� ل م � � �س� ��ر�م بص ���ل�و��ص �و ب�� � �وا ��ر �وك� ب و ة ر ة ة ر ر ة� ةر ة ب ة� � ة ب ب � ب �� � ب �� ة ب ا ب � � ب � ة ب �س���لة��ا ا � ك� �س��د �و ب� �ر��ده ��� ب��مة�� ا �ل��د �ة� ������ل�م�� ��ر� ة �س��ل� �ر����� � او ��د �م���ل��مة� �مص ا ��ه�� ر ة ة ع ة � � ب ب ب �ة ة �� � ب �� �� ب�������ل��ره ا �عب�� ��م �� ��ر ��ة� �م�دة�ل ب��� �س� ح�م�� ا � ��هب�� ��ر����� ب��ا ��ة� � � ع او �ة��د �ه� �و���د �ل��ك �م��� �وك��ب��� ��ة� ا �ل� ة ة� م ة � ا ب� � �� ش ب ب ا � �ة ب �ب � با � �ة ب ������ل ���د ا �م� ب��مة�� ا � ��ه ب��ا � ��د ك���ل����ة� ��را �ل��د �ة� �� ةر�ل�� ��لة� �س��لة�� ب ���م ح�ة� ا د ا �و���ل�� ا �ة� ��ر� ة � � �ب ةع ع ة ا �ل��د �ة� ا �ش����رة�ل ب��ا ه �م بص �ل��ل�ك ا �ل ب�ص او ��ة� � او �لب��ل��د. ب ة ��ب � ا ��بل ب ة � � ة �� ا �� ��ا ��� ���ا � �ة ب��� � ا ا با ��ا ��ا � � او �ل���س� او �� �كب����د �م� د ��� �م�دة�ل ب��� �س� ر ب ر و ر ب ح ب�� ���ة� ب��مة�� ا �ل��م� ��ص و ا � �ب �ا � � ا ا ��� بع � ا � ش � ب � � � ب � �ل ة ا ��ل ب ا � � ة � � � � � ح ��� � � � � � � � �ة� � او � �����ل���� � �وب� ب� ا �ل� م ح�� د �ل�ك �وك ك � � ���ا � ���ب�� ب� بوة�صو� ��س�� ب � ب و و � ة ب ة ب ب رب � � � ا �� � � ب � ة � � ب ب� � ب ا � � � ب ة � ���د ه ا �ل��م�ا ��ب ك����ل��ا � �� ا ��س ��ط�� ا �ل ���ا � �م����ل�م ة� �� � �� ح�م�� ا � ��� ك� ح��س��� �ل� ب���ل ا � ���ر ب��� د � �و�ل�� ا ��ة� ص � بو �ة� ة ��ا ب ة � ب �ل� � ش � ب � ���د �و�ل� ب��� ���� ������ ك�� � � �مه �ص �ل �ع��د ا ب� ب���ة� ��ط �م بص ��ة�ر ا �ب�� �ة�ا ب���د ����ة� �م بص ا � �حج�مة�� . ب و ل ل ب ب ع بً ح��� �ة�� � ����� ب��ا � �و�ا ش��� ��ب� ا ��ل�� بم�� ا ���� بد ��ل��ك ا ب��ل � � � � ا ب� � � �ب � � حب��ل� رة ا ��ة را �ا د م��ل��مة� �ب� �� ةر�وج ةر�و� ب ب ل و ة ب ر ة ا � � � ��� � �ة ا ��ل ب� �� ب �� ا ا� �ة �� ب �ل ا �� � ا �� ��ةهب � ا ا ب � � �ب ب �� �م��د ص �� �م� �م �� ��ر م� ��� � ��لة�� �ة� د �ل�ك �و��� � ةر�وة� ��وب� ��م�ر ا �ة� د �ل�ك ع � � � � ب ح ���ط�ا ا ������ط ��ة � ��ة �� �ل�� �ل�� ��ا �ب�� �ل���ل��ة ب � ا �ب ��� ب � ش ا ب��ل ��� ب�ه � � � � ك � ع��� ار �و�ة� �و�ل� ب���ل ���ر�ع ة� حب���ل � او � � رة�� ب و ب ب ة رم ةر ب ةص ش ه �م ب ��� ب ����ه ه � � ��ةهة��� � ��ب ا ������ط � ��ة �م�ا ���� ب�ص ���د �م�ا ��س ه ��� �� ��� � � �� � � � ة � �و� ص �ة� � � وة ل و ة� رة� ب ة و ب ط او ا � ار ك� ب� ��لة��� �لة��ل� ة�ل � �م �و ب ةرب ة ب � � ش � ��� �ش ب ا� ا ا� ا�� ش � ب ا ا ب� �ل��ل���رب� �و�ل� ����ة� �ل�ل� ك���ل ب�ل��ل ب�لة�� ��د � او �م�����م �� او ده �مص ا�م� ء � او�م� ك���ل ����ة� لة����� �ه�م ا ب������� ا �و ش � � ب � ب �� ة � ا �ب �ة � ة ش ة ب��م�����ة ا ��ا � � ��سوا �ل� به�� �سس���� ��م�ا ب�لة��� ا �ة�ا � ب�لة �صو� �و�ل�� ب���ل ���د ا ةص �ل��ب�� ب�لة��� ��ل ط� �م���� � ح�� س� �م � ب ب م م ةم ع ب ���د ا ا ��ل��مب ة ة ب ب ب ا ا ا ب � � ط � � � � � ا � � � �ر و � � �ك. �م�ا ب�لة����د � ��� ���ة ص ���ة� أ 1ال��ص�ل� :م ف�م����ر�مر�ي فس.
80
80
٤٦،٤
٤٧،٤
٤٨،٤
Chapter Four
strong board, and to leave off the top and bottom, only marking the spots for the nails. The next day, the carpenter brought the trunk, fashioned precisely as the consul had ordered. The body was placed in the middle of the trunk, and various fine fabrics—sheets, handkerchiefs, fine linen, and other expensive goods—were laid on top of it, until one side was full, and the first cover was nailed down over it. The trunk was flipped over, some more fabrics were placed inside, and the cover was nailed down just like the first one. The consul did this so that if the trunk was opened from either side in the
4.46
customhouse, they would only find the fabrics. The trunk, along with all of the things we’d bought in Egypt—including coins and jewels and books, and many other things besides—were to remain with the consul until he forwarded them to the French port of Marseille. My master secured a receipt and an inventory from the consul for everything he’d handed over to him, and registered them in the chancellery (that is, the consul’s court in Cairo). This was in accordance with their customary practice. This is what the khawājah did with every consul we visited. That way, when we arrived in Marseille, we’d find everything we’d purchased from those places. We toured all of Cairo and saw everything: caravansaries, markets, the
4.47
homes of the sanjak s, the Citadel, the Gate of the Janissaries, al-ʿAzab Gate, and other places too. What got us in everywhere was the medical treatment my master provided. Instead of asking for money, he treated people in exchange for the opportunity to look around. By doing this, he made himself welcome everywhere. My master decided to visit Mount Sinai, and began preparing for a trip to the holy mountain. When the consul learned of the plan, he didn’t look kindly upon it. He related to my master all the difficulties of the journey to the mountain and the perils on the road. “You’ll have to ride an ʿashrāwī camel,60 which is so fast that a rider has to be tied onto its back to keep from falling off and getting killed,” he said. “There’s no water along the way, and nothing to eat. You’ll have to bring enough food and water for four or five days, depending on the camel’s pace, because it travels seven or eight days’ distance in a single day. Trust me, you won’t last long traveling like that!”
81
81
4.48
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
ب � ب���ل�م�ا ���م� �م����ل�م �م ب ا �� ��ةهب ل��ل�� � �ة�ب����ر ة� �ب���ة��� �ع ب ا ��ل�� بم�� ا ��� بد ��ل��ك ا ب��ل � ��ر ���د ا ا �� ك� � � ة حب���ل ص �ة� ص ر ة ة م � ً بعبً � � � ب � � ب ب �ة ب ب ا�ام���د ��ص �� �و��ا �م بص ا ���� ��� ب� .ا ��ة�را �ا د �ب�ا ��� ة�����ا �ر ا �ة� ا �ا د �ة� ا �����هة��د � او �ة� �لب�� ب�را �ل�ة��ل� ع � � � ش � ا ��ل ا ب ا ة ش ا � ب � � ا �� �� ب �م ب ا ��ل ب ا �� ا �� � ب � ب ا � � ة �وا ا ��ة� �ل��ل�ك � او ��ة� �ب�ل��د ا �لب������ �و ��س�ود � �و ��������� � ب��د �ل�ك �ة� ب����ص ص �� ص ل�دة ص � � ب ة ا ةة ة � ب ا � � ا ب�� � ا �� ��ةه�� ا ب �بب� � ه �ع ب ب �� � ا �� ب ً ة � � ب �ل�� �ة� و ة �� � �ب� رو ص د ل�ك ة � ���ا �و��ا ��� او �ل�� �ة�ا �� �وا ب��� ا ��� �م� ب�ل ����د � ������لك ��ة� � � � � ة ���ا �ع��� �و� ل��ا ا �د �ة�ا �و���� �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل���ا ب���� ��ل�� ب� ا ���� ��ا �ة� بص � او �� ح ش��سة��� � او�ام����ة�ر ا �ة� �ل��ل�ك ا �لب��ل��د � ب � ة م ح ��� � � ا � � � � � � ا �ب � ة� � � ��� �م ب �ةل�� � ا ��ل �� � ب ا �ش�� �ة ا ب ��ش� ا �لب حة��� �ب� ها � � طر و م� ه�و م��ل�وم ب� �ك ر ب� �� ب� ص لك ب��ل د و���د �ة� �د ب ر ك���ة ر ع ة � � � ب �� بة �ب ا ب ب ب ا ب ��ا ب ة ةة ب � ة � � � � ب ب �ب� � ��ع��س�� � او � ك�� � �ب��ر�ة��د �ل ���ربج ���ة� �ل�لك ا �ل��ا ���ة� �و�ل��ب��د ا س���ة� ا �ة� �م�دة�ل��� ا � ��هة �صو�م �و�مص ا ب ب ب � ة ب� � �ب ة � � ب �ه ب��ا ك بل�ة� ��ا ��طر ب�لب ��بع�����ك. حة�ب��ر �ل��ل�ك ا �ل��ا ���ة� � او � او د �س��� �مص ��ة�ر ا ��ك ط � ب � ا ��ل ب� �� � �ل ب �ة ا �� �ب � ا ة ش ا � ب � � ا �� ��ةهب ب ب ب � � حة�ب�ً�د ��م� ا �ل�ة�� ����� ��م�را ة� م�دة �� �هة �صوم �و ��������� � ب��د �ل�ك �� ��ر �ر���ة� �ب��د �ل��ك م ة �ة � ب � با � � �ة�� � � ا ب � � �ب �ةل�� � ا�ا� �ل ب � � ا � � ب ا � � ب ����ك � ك ح�ة� �ة�� بر�ل �ع ب��ده م�� �صو ب� و ل� ب� � ��و ب � �ود �ة� لك م�دة �� ب� د � ة� ح�� �ل� ��ة�ر � او �� ب���� �� ة ة � ب � � ب ب � ب � � ب �ب ة � � � � ��ة� د�ةره �وةل���و� ��ة� ا �م�ا � �ل��ب�� � ب���ل � ك �ة�. ح��ة�� �و�م� بهص�و�ل �ع ب��د ��ا �م� ا �لب���ل��د ا �ل��د �ة� �ه�وا ����ب��� م � ب ب� ب �� � ب بً ة ب � �ب ب ة ش ��ة�� ب��ا �ل��ل��م��ر �وب� �رل ب��ا ��ة� �م���ا ��ص �م����ا �ر ا ��ة� ا � ��هة �صو�م �و ��ة� �ل��ل�ك ا �ل��ة�ا �م ك���ا � ب�ل ب���ك ا ��ة�را ��� ة � �ب ب � � ب��ا ��ب ��و� �ب ا �ل ب��ا ا ��بل� ب��ود ب�را ��لب�ة���ل ب���ل�م�ا ب�ر ب� ��را � ��ة��دة��م�� �م� د ��ل��ك ا�ام���ا ��شص ا�ام�د �� � � ح ب��ا �م بص �س� ة ر ر ص ة ع � �مة���� ا �� ا � ا ب� �ةل�� � ا � � ا ب� � ا ��ل �� ا �� ة �ه �� بم� ا ��� �ة ا � ا � ��� �� � � ب و �ل ة� و ر لك �ل�� ��� و ب��ل د ��� �ة� �ر ب� �� ة� ط�ول م ع �عر��ص ة ة م � � ب � � ب ب ب ب � ة � ا ا ا ا ا � � �ودة� بص ��ة� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل���ا ���� ب �مة�� ��س��� � �و�م� �ة��د �و�ه� ��� د ا ���ل ا�م� ء ك�� ����� � � او ��ب� ��س� ا�ام�و ب�� � ة ة ة م م م ع ا�ا� ا ء � � ب ا�ا� ا ء �لة�� � ا �ع ب ا � � ب � �ش���� ��� ب��� � �ا�م�ا � � �ب�ا ا ��� �ةل��ل� ا ���ب � � � �وا � ل � ح� � � � م� �ل� � � م � ك � � ل ل ��س� �م�ا ��ة��ةبص ة ب�� � ب ر ة ر و ةرو � ب و ص �ص ل � ةع م � ة � ش � � ��ا ده � ح�ة ب� �م��� ا ��ل�ب��ا �ع ا ه �ب�ا � ب �ر����ط ����ة��ا ب� �م� ب�ل ب��ا ة� �ل�� ب���ل ا �ل���� ل�� ك�����ر ب�ب�� بر ا �و �ب ���� ط�م�ا ة� ة ر ب ة� ر ة � م ع � � ا ب ا� ا ��ش ة ا ة ة � ب ب � � ب ب ب ح��� ب ���ا ب� ����ا � �� � �وك� � ةص �م���ا �ش�سب��ا ا ب���� ��ل��م �ل� � ��م�� �ر�ا � ب ���د ب� �رة� � ا�م� ء �وك��ة ر ا �و � � ة�ل �صوه ا رة���ص ع ا� ا ش ب � ب � �� بش ح���د � � ا ��ل� ح�ة� �ةر ب� �عص ا �ل��د � ب� �ة�����س ب� 1ا�م��� ��ص ��ة� ا �ر�م��ل � بو�����د ب� � ح��د ب� � ة ����وه ا �ة� �و��س ��ط ب�ر ة ب �� ا � ��ا ب � � � � ش ب � � � � ب ا بل ���ل �لة���ل�� � � �� � ة� �وك�� � ك� ةر� ��ط� او ا�ام���ا ��ص ��ة� ب��ا ب�� ب� ا �لب��ر �ول ب����ا ب��مة��ه ب��ا ب�رب� ا ��ة� ا �لب��ر �و�لب��ا ة� ب ج � ب ب ب � ����ا � �و��� ��ود �����ا �ر. ا � ا �� ة� � ب ج ح��� ب ا ��ل�� بد �� �ا�م�ا ��بل ا ة ا ب ا ة �ة ب ا ح��� �ة ��و�� �مب� ا ��ل � با � � � ص ة �� ��س���م�� ا ب������� ا �ة� �م �و�ة��و�م ا �� �م��ص �و���ل�� ا �ة� ب ر �ب ب ا ب � � ب ة �ب��ع � � بة �ب � � ة ا ������ل �و ب��ا ب� ا ب�لة��� ة����� ��و ب� ا ��ة� �س� ��ر �ة� ��م� � ����ل������� ��ر �ل�� �م�دة�ل��� ا � ��هة �صو�م �ل� ب���ل أ ف ��. 1ال��ص�ل :ي��م ش��� ك �ف
82
82
٤٩،٤
٥٠،٤
٥١،٤
٥٢،٤
Chapter Four
Hearing this, my master changed his mind about traveling to the holy
4.49
mountain, afraid he might perish. He decided instead to travel to Upper Egypt, to the headwaters of the Nile and into Abyssinian and Sudanese lands. He consulted some people who had traveled there and they, similarly, discouraged him from going. “Khawājah, you can’t travel through those parts,” they said. “The natives are nasty brutes who cast spells, the trip is dangerous, and there’s no guarantee that you’d return alive. People have disappeared before, mark our words! But if you insist, then go to the city of Fayoum. From there, you’ll be able to learn about those places and people without putting yourself in danger.” My master resolved to go to Fayoum. He asked the consul for approval, and
4.50
received it. “Father Ḥannā is the only priest there,” the consul said. “I’ll give you a letter of introduction so that you can lodge with him at his monastery. You’ll be safe in his hands: He’s a physician who gets along well with the city governor.”61 We prepared for the journey and embarked on a riverboat bound for
4.51
Fayoum. It was the flood season then. When we left Old Cairo, we saw that the Nile waters had reached towns and territories four days’ journey away. The villages within those areas were little hamlets surrounded by water not more than a handspan deep. When the villagers would see us pass by, they’d come out stark naked—both boys and girls—to beg for a scrap of bread or some hardtack. Since we were traveling against the current, four men hauled the boat forward. Often the riverboat captain would lose his way and the boat would become mired in sand. With great effort, they’d manage to push the boat back into the current. Every evening, we would tie up on the side of the river, and go onto dry land to spend the night. In the morning, we’d return and set off again. We traveled for four days, arriving on the fifth at the dam of Joseph the Fair, who summoned his father Jacob to Egypt during the days of his rule and built the city of Fayoum for him, as the Holy Book recounts. Joseph built the dam in
83
83
4.52
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
� � � �ا �� � ��ب ل��ة� �و��ل ا�ا�م�ا ء � او ب�ر�� � ��ا ب� ا�ا�م�ة��د ��ص �و�ع ح���ر �ل�� ب���ل د ب� ح���� � � � �� � ل ب�� � ب � �س�� ه �مك� �ه�و مر� ة� ل ر ة ب � �ة ة ة ة� � � � ب �� ب ب ب �ب �ك�� ���د ا ����م ب� ح���ر �ة ��و�� �م� �م �مص ا �ل�ة���ل د ا ���ل ����ل بح���رح�ة� ��� �س�ة� �ل�لك ا �ل��ا ���ة� �و�ل� ب���ل ة� ة � �حج� �ة�ا � ب� � �صو ب� ��ب� ب�� م�� �ه�و � ك ���. ة ة � ب ب ب � � � ب ب � � ا� م��ا � �� ��ط� ا �م���ا ��ش ا �ل��د �� ل ب��� ا ب ا ��ا �كة��� ��� ا �لب��ر � �وب ��ة���ل� او ب��مة�� �و��م�ة��� ���ل�م� �و����ل ب�� ا ��ة� د �ل��ك ا� ك� � ص و ة ب ة � �ة ع � � ب �ب � �س�ة��م ب��ا � �� � ��� بد ��ل��ك ا ب��ل ط� ا ب��ل � ح��� ب��ا � ة � �ك���ل��ة ا �لب ��ة���ل�� ا �ة� �ش�ا �ة� �م���ا ��شص ا �ل��د �ة� �ه�و ة��ا �� ل ح���رح�ة� �م ة و � ر م ة� ع �� اب �� � ب � � ة ا ب � ب �ب �ة ����ل ب��ا ���م��ك �م ب ل � �و ��ب� بد ��ل��ك ا ��لة �صو� ا ك� ا ا � � � ����د ا ل�د ة� ب�ة����س�� � � �صوه مص ��و� ���� بح���ر و ه�و � ة ص ة م ة � ����ا د � ب �ل��د ���� ا �ش�س��ا �� ح��� ��ل�� ب� �م ب ����� �م ب ب���ر ا ب� �ة����� ا ���� ا�ا�م�ا ء ا ��ل ب��ا ب���ل �م ب بد ��ل��ك ا ب��ل � ا ��� ة ة ص ب ة و ب م ص ة ص ص ر ل ة �ب ح��� ب�ل ��ة��د �ب� ا ��ل���م��ك ا ���� ا �������ل� �بك� ��ة�� ب � ش � ب ب ب � ا� ا �ب ��ل و بة �عر�م �ر�و�ل ا�م� ء �ة� ا ب� ر ة ع د ا ���ل ا �ل��سب��ك �و �ة� ����ل ة � ب ب ب ب � � ب �ة � ب ��ط �ر��ة��� بة��م��س���وه � ب�و�ة�� ب�حة��� ��وه ك����ل �ش�ل�� ش� ا ب���� �ر�و� ب�لب����� �� ب� ���� ا �ع��ة� ب��م� �� �رة�� � او � ����ل� �ة��ةص ع ج ة � �� �ب ب ب ب ة ب � � � � � � � ع � � د� ا ا � ك � � ب��ا �ل����ةص ب�لة���ل�و �ل ر ب ب � ة��د ��� ب���ل��ص. ة ج ب ب ب ب� � ش � ب �ب ة � � �� � ا� ب � ب ط� ��ل � �وش�ا ��ة� �ة ��و� ����ا � �بر�ا ��ة� د �ل��ك ا�ام���ا ��ص ا �لش��ا ��ة� ا �ل��د �ة� �ه�و ��ا ��ل ع ا بح���ر ا�م�د ��و� ا �ة� ���ةص م ة � ا ب � ب ا ا� ب ا�ا�م����ا ء �ب�� ����ل ب��ا ا ��� �م�د �ل ب���ة ا �� ��به �ص � � ا � ة �� ب���ل�م�ا � ����ل ب��ا �س��د ��لة�ب��ا ���� ب��ة��� ا �لب�� د � ة� � ح�� ا�م�د ��و� و ة وم و ة� ة و ة� � ة ب � ب � � ة � ب � � ب ب ا ا ب م�� �صو ب� ا � ��ه�� � � � � � � � � � � � �ل ا �ة� ب��ة��ة��� �و�اة�ل ب�� ه � او �ع ��ط� ه �م����ل��م� � ك ��ر ا �ل�د ة� ا �����ل� �ل� �ة� ا �� �ة� رل م�� ��مة� ة ا��ة � ب � ب ة �ب� ��ب� � او ب� �ع ب��ده � �و ��ة � حب��� � �وةب���ر ب��� ��� �ةل��ل�ك ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� ���ل�م�ا ا �لب��ا د ��ة� �ر�ة� ا� ك م�� �ص � � ��� ة ة ة� و ب و � � �م ا � �ا ب � �ش ب ة �بة � � ب ة ة � ب ا � ب � � � ل �م�ه ب��ا ه � � � � � � � � حة��ً�د ا ���� رح ب� �� �م���ل��م ��و ة� ك��ة ر �و�هة�� �ل�� � ك� م�� � ل� �م�� �م�� ��� �د � � ك م����� �ل�� ة ة� ة� ة بب ب��ة��ة��� ���و�ة� ���ة�ر د �ة��ة�. � � � � �� ب ا � ة �ة ة ش ب ا �ة حب ب ا � ة هوه �� �س���م ب��ا �ل��ل�ك ا �ل��لة���ل�� ا �ة� ا �� ����ا � � بو�����د �م�ا � � �� � �� �ر� ا � ����د ا ��ص ا �ل� ���ه�ة� �و��� بر�ل�� ا � �� � ب ج � ب � ب ا � ب ا � ب ة ا �ل����ب�� � ب � �� � ��ره حة�ب�ً�د �و���ا �ب�ا ا �لب��ا د ��ة� �ب�ا �ل� ب�رب� �م بص ب��ة��ة��� ا �ة� ���ةص �م� �ة �� او بح���� بح� �ة� ا �ل��د �ة� ب� ج �� ب � � � � � ��ا ب �� ��س� � او �ل��ا ��� ا ��� � ا � �ه�و ��ا ��� �ةل��ل�ك ا �لب��ل��د �و�م�ا �ةل��ل ���ا �م بص ا �م�ا ��بص �و ب� ة� ة ��د ����هة��د �وك�� � ����ل ة� ة ع ا � مة � ة � ب ا ��ل����ب � ح�� ��م�� � ���� ��ل��ه �م�ا ة��د ا ��ل��ا �ة � �ه� � � � � ��س�� �ب �ةل��ل�ك ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� � � �ب� د � ة� ���و ة� �م� به �صو�ل �ع��د د � ب �� و و ة و و � ب �ة ة ص � � � � ب ح ش��س��� ب �مب��� �ةك� ���ط � �مب ��� �� ��بهة��� ب �و��ل����س��� ا ب�ل ��ل�� ب� ا ���� �ةل��ل�ك ا ��لب��ل��د ا �د ��ا �و� حب��� �ل� ��ة�ر و � � ب ة ل ب ة ةص ةص م ة م م �� ا ��ل���ل ��ا ب�ك��� ب ا ���� �ة�د ا � ��ا �� ��ة� � ا � ��ا ��� �م�ة���ل� ��� � ش��م���� � �م�ا ����ب ب��� �ة ا �� ��ةه� ��� �م ب ا �� � ��ب �ة� �م ة ةص ل م ب ر� و و ب � �م وب ب و ب ة بر� ب ط�ة� ص رة�ة� ب ب� � ة � �ل������� �ل� ا � ل��� � ا� ة ا � � � ا ا �ب �ب � �وا ا � ل��ا � �و� ب�� ����� ب ح���� او ا�م��� ��ل �و� ةر��م��� ب�لة��� �ر�� او ا � ل�� ح� �س�و ��ط�� � بوة ب�� ط� ا �ل�� ة � ة ة ��را �ل���� �م� �ة� � م م ة ع � � ب� ة �و�م�ا ة� ش��سب��� د �ل��ك �م بص �ل��ل�ك ا �ل��ش�مب���ا �ل. 84
84
٥٣،٤
٥٤،٤
٥٥،٤
Chapter Four
order to channel some of the Nile waters to irrigate those territories. For that reason, it was named Joseph’s Dam, as recorded on a stone that marked the date of its foundation. When we arrived, they tied the riverboat to a mooring and transferred its
4.53
freight to a second boat on the other side of the dam. We spent the day there, waiting for the freight to be loaded, eating fish caught from the top of the dam. The fishermen would dangle their nets without letting them touch the water that flowed down. The water fell with such force that it would hurl the fish into the air, and they’d fall into the nets! In that way, the fishermen would catch them and sell every three or four for half a piece of silver, which is to say a single miṣriyyah. The fish fryers seated there would fry a fish for a jadīd, in other words for a fils. The next day, we traveled on the second riverboat (the one on the other side
4.54
of the dam). We reached Fayoum in the evening and asked for directions to the home of Father Ḥannā. When we arrived, my master presented him with the consul’s letter, which asked the priest to lodge its bearer with him, put himself at his service, and show him around the city. After reading the letter, the priest welcomed my master warmly and prepared a place for him to sleep. He did the best he could, as his home was very small and cramped. We spent the night. The next morning, after we attended mass and had some coffee, the priest urged us not to leave his home before he could introduce us to the sanjak, who was the governor of the town and the surrounding villages and countryside up to the frontier of Upper Egypt. The priest was very well liked by the governor and served as his personal physician. Were this not the case, he wouldn’t have been able to live in Fayoum, as the residents in those parts were wicked and wild. Some were Copts and others were country peasants.62 They wore nothing but tunics over their naked flesh and went barefoot and bareheaded. Their faces were misshapen and ugly, and one couldn’t tell a Copt apart from a peasant! The women spun flax, and the men wove Asyūṭī fabrics. They made samānī straw mats and other such handicrafts.63
85
85
4.55
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
� ب ا ��ل����ب��ة ب ا �ا � ا ب ب ا ب � ب � ب ح ك� �وب�ر ب� �� �� � ���دده ���ل�م�ا �ا � ا �لب��ا د ��ة� ا �ة� �ع��د �� �م�ا ل ب����ا ��ة� � ب� �� �ل�� �ب� � � او �� �ة� ج ع � � � ح��� �م� � � �م�ا ��ر � �وة�ا �ةك� بص ب��مة�� ا ������ل�و� � او � ��به ب�صو ب� ����ل ��ل��ك ب��ا ��طر �ب�ا ب� �ب�� او ب� � ب���ل � �� ح� حب� �� �ةر��ك � م ع ع ��م ب � حة �ب ب ب ا � ا �� ا ��� � ب � � ب ب �ب ة ب ��ره ���ة���ل�� ا �لب��ا د ��ة� ���� �ر ص �و ��� �ة� ���� ا � �� ��و� ا ��ة����ة� �ب�� ��ة� ا �� ةص � او �ل�� ��ا ب��ا �ب�� ا ل����ب��� ة ة ��ل� �� � � �� ة ب �ب �ب����ا � ب��د �� �م ب ا ��ل��س��ا � ب ب� � � � ا ا ا ل� � حة�ب��� �م��ه� ا ��ة� �ع ب��د د � ح� ���ل �و�ك ة� �ر�و ب�� � ك � � ة ب ص ص ة ج ة م حب�� �ة � � � ح�ة� ة� ار ه. � ر�ك ة � �ب � � � ا �� �م����ل� ب ب��م�� ا ��لب �و ب�رب� ا �لب��ا د ��ة� � او ب��ا ا ��ة� ب��ة��ة��� � او � �� ح ��ط�ا ب� ا �ل��د � ���ا ����ب�� ح�� ة� �م ة � ة ج ة� � ب ة � �م ة ب� � بع ا� ا��ا ب � � � � ب ب � ب ة ة م��ا ب� �ه� �م�ا ��� ب � ا ا ا ل � ا �� ب � � � � � � � � �و�م� ك�� � ا �����د �� ح�� �م� ا �لب�� د � ة� ا �ة� ��� ار��ة� د �ل�ك ب� �� �ود ��ل� �و� ا �ة� � ك� و ب ةص ع � ب � ة ب ب ة �� ا ��� � �م�� �كب�� ب ��ب��ا �ة �م ب �س���م ب��ا �كة��� �و�����ده ب� ب� ا �ل����ب�� ا ��ل � � �و��� ا ��ة ة� ا �ل � ب��ا � ة � � �� � ح� � � � � � � ر ر � ص ر ر ر � ب ة� ة م ج م ب ا ا �� �ة �ب ا � �� ب ا ب �� ا � �ة ���دا ه � ا �� ا ��ب ب ا ا ا ب � � ل � ل � � �� � � ك � ا ا ا ا � � � � ل ل � ح � � � � �د �د ل � � � د د � � � � � � � � � . � � � � � �� � � � � � ط � � � ل�� � � � و و و ب ب و ب ب ص ب و � ة ة ً ب ة ر ر ص ة� م �ل م ب � ة � ة � ا ة ب ب �ب �ه�وه �و�����ده �ب��د �ة �� او ��ة� ا�ام����ا ��ره � او �لب��ا د ��ة� �ة��ةر ب��م��ل��� � او ��س���ر� او � �� ���ا �. �و� � ح� ���� �ع���ةص �مص ا �ل � ب م � � مب � � ا ب��ة�ًرا ا ب���بد �ب�ا ا بد ب� ��ا �ا�م����ة�ر �ب��ه ب��د بد ��ل��ك �ة�ا ��ل ا �ل����بب� �ة ��ل��لب��ا د ��� �ب�ا �ب�� لة ك� � ���ل�� ا ��ة� �م����ل��م� �ب�ا �ب�� ك���ل� � ب ة � ة ب ب ة � ب ب ة � �� ً ة � ش ا ا ب �ه�وه �ع��ده �مص ��ة�ر �ل�� ك ل��ة ��� �����ل�� �م��� �و ��ط� ���. �ة ��و�م � ب�����ة� ة ب��ة� ة����رب� � � ��ا ب ا � � ب � �ب ��� ا �� ��ب��� � ا �� ب ب ب � ب ���ا ب� ا ��ل������ �ه� ا ب� ا ��ل����ب��ة �وك� ���د �ه ���ل�م�ا ك���ا � ب� �� ك�� � ����ل م�ر�� �ة� ل�م لك �و �� ب ب و � ب � �ة ب ا ا � ب ب ح � �ا� ة ب ��� �ة� ك � �وب�� ��ا ������ �م����دده ��ل�� ب���ل ����ل ���ب�� ب� ا ��ب����س ��ط ة�����ا �ل �م����ل��م��ع بص ����ل �� ���ا � ة ب�ة�ب�� ب� ب � ة ة ب ا� �م ب��� � ���ا �م����ل� � ا �� ب�� �ة ب �� بش � � ب �� و � �مة� و ���ة�ر �ر�وج� ك���ل �ة ��و�م �مص �ب� ��ر ا ��ة� �ع��ده �و����رب� � � �ه�وه �ةو ب��ل��ص � � ب � � ة � ة ب �ة��� ا ة�ر ب�� ����ب ا �ل����بب�� ��� ا ��ة� ا � ة� �� �ة� �و�م����ل��م ة�لة����ا ��ر� او � او � ب�� � � ح� �و�ك� �ر�و ب��� ا ��ة� د ا � ر � ة ب ة � م م ة م � �ب � �م ب �ع ب�ده � �ب � �ب ا�ا�م�د �ل ب � �م ب ب � ب ا ��ل � �و�ب� �و�ب بر � �وب ��ب���ة ش�� ���� ب���ل�و��ص ة��دة��م�� � �� �د � � � � � � و و� �ة� ة ص ة ر � ح� ����ة ر ص ص � � ة م ��� �م ب �ب� ب ���� � ���� ب ����ا � ���� ب ���� �م ب ب��ا �� � ���� ب ���ش�� � ا �ش����ة �ل ب��ا ا � ب �ب ا �ل ب��ا �مب���� �ش� � � ك � � � � � � � و و ر و ر � � � ة ص ب م ص م ص ر ب ص م ة ب ة م ��ةة �ة �ة ا � � ب � � ب � ب ب ا ا ا ب ب � � � � ����� �ب� �ل���رل ك� ك� ب� � ك �� �ة� �مص ا �ة� � ب� ��� ا ��� ار �ل��ل. م� �ص �وب�ة�ص ���� �� �ب� ����ب� را �ة� � بو����� م ة ة م ة ب � � � �ب ا ب ا �� �� ة ا � � �ب ب ب�ك �ص � �م ب ���� ب�� ا �ل����ا � � � ا ب ب ا ة وم ص ب ص ة م و ح بص �م� �ة�ص � ارة�ل�� � ب���ل مب����س ��ط �ة� ب�� �� ب� ��طر�ة��� �و�� �����ط �ة� � ة ب ب ة ب ب � ب ة ا ا ب ب ا �لب����س ���ط�� �ش�م�ة � �ب� � ���دا �ة��د � �وب���� �م�ة�ر �و�ر� �م��ل�و� � بو������ص ب�� � �� ��م� ���م �ع�هة �ص� �و�م � �وا ��م �م � � ب ب ةب ب ��س� ب � �م�ا � ش��س��� بد ��ل��ك �م ب ا �� ��ة� ا �ةك�� �بك��ش� ب �� ح�� �م����ل��م ��� �ةل��ل�ك ا �لب����س ���ط � او ��ر�� ب�ل��ل����ا �ب�� � ار � �م ب �و� و ة ة ب ص ر ص ة� ة ة ع ا ��ب ا �ش����ة � �م ب بد ��ل�� ا �� �� ا ��ل����س ���ط�� ��ا ب��م����ا �ب�ا ����ة ب حبع� ة� ��ب �ع�ة���ل�� ��ب ��ا ��� � �ة��لة���ل�� �م�ا � � � ة� ب ة� و ة� ر ة� ص ك ر ب �ل ب ة ة� ب �
86
86
٥٦،٤
٥٧،٤
٥٨،٤
٥٩،٤
Chapter Four
As I was saying, the priest went off to see the governor and told him that a
4.56
doctor had arrived who was deeply skilled in all the sciences and arts. “Would it please Your Excellency to be introduced to him?” he asked. “Bring him here, so I may see him,” the governor replied right away. “With pleasure,” the priest said. “But seeing as how you’re about to head off to the Palace of Justice, why don’t I bring him with me tomorrow morning for Your Excellency to meet him?” The priest returned to his house, where he told my master about the con-
4.57
versation he’d had. The next morning, we went with the priest to the governor’s palace, and were ushered into a place between his private chambers and the government house. The governor emerged from his private chambers. We rose to our feet and kissed his hands. He sat down and invited us to have a seat on either side of him. He ordered a servant to bring us marmalade and coffee. The governor and my master began to converse, with the priest acting as translator. Things continued in this fashion for two hours. Finally, we asked permission to take our leave, and the governor told the priest to ask my master to come by for coffee every morning, with no obligation or fuss. “It would be my pleasure,” my master replied. The governor, you see, was well-versed in astronomy and geometry. When
4.58
he asked questions about these subjects, my master would reply with convincing and pertinent responses. The governor was eager to converse with him, so we’d visit each morning and have coffee together. The two men would converse and I translated, until the time came for the governor to depart for the Palace of Justice. Then we’d take our leave and proceed to tour the city fearlessly, hunting for old coins. We found a great many of them, and also bought statues of idols (some made of silver and some of copper) and books on parchment written in Hebrew and Estrangelo, dating to the days of the Israelites. One day, while we were out on a walk, we passed a man selling wares by the side of the road. He’d laid out some pieces of iron, some nails, colored beads, ring stones—agate, or perhaps tinted glass—and other odds and ends. My master inspected the wares and told me, in his own tongue, to buy the whole lot from the man. Personally, I questioned the wisdom of this proposal, so I spoke up.
87
87
4.59
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
ب �� اب شة ا � ب ��� ا ��ل ب��ا �� ة�لة�� ط��� حة���ك ��ب� ���� �ة ا �ةكة�� بل�ة ب� ��� او ���لة�ب��ا �ب����ا د ���� ّ ا �� ك� ��ا ب� ح� ص � ل��ل� �م �ب� �ة� ا �����ر�ة���� �و س���ة� ة� ة ب ل ر ع ة� ب �� � ب ح ب ش �ش ب ب ب ا �ةب ة ب ش ة ا ب ب � ة ���ا �م� ���ل�م�ا �اة�لة��� ا � � ��ر�م��ة� �و�س���ة� �� �ل��ر�م� ا �ة� ا �����ر�ة���� �������ل � ع د �ل�ك ا �ر ب���ل ب�ل��ل� ���ةص ب ب ب � � ���� �و��ة�� ح ة� �م ب��د �ةل��� � او ب���د �ة����ا �وة�لب��ع ة� �م����ل��م� ا ��ة� ب��ة�� ة� ا �لب��ا د ��ة�. ��� ة ة � � � ��ا � ا �ش����ة �لة���ا �ة��لة���ل�� �لش��ل�� �ش�� ب �� �ر�� �بك����ا � ب��� ����ل ا �ش����ةر�� ة� ا �لب����س ���ط�� �ة��لة���ل�� �ب���ه ب���ة���� بل ك� ةص �س� ب ر � ة ة ة م ة� م ة ب ا �ة ب ب � ا� ب � ط��� � ة ا ش �ة ة ا ب � � � م��ا �ب�� � �����د � ب ب ب � ع�ةس���� ا � � � � � � � � ا ا �ل م م د � � � � � �د ل د � �د � � � � � � � � � � � � ك � �� بو �� �� �ك و ��ة� رة � ة� و ة �ل ص ة ة� و �ل ة� � ب � ب ا ب � � بر �ب�ا ���بة�� ا �ع ���ط�ا �ب� ا�ام ب��دة�ل��ل �و�م�ا ب�كة��� �و�ة�� ب���د كب� ����� � ا حب� ة� �م بص ���د ا ا � ب�������ل � � ل��بص �ه�و �عر�� �م� ��ة� ة � ة � � ب ة � � � د ب�ك���ا �ب ب� �م���د ب� ب��ا �م� ��������ا � �� � ����ة �م ب ا�ا�م�ا ��ل ��ل�� ��ب ب��م�ا ا � �ل��ل�ك ا �لب����س ��ط�� �و�ه�و ك�� � �� � � ب ة� ة ة� و و ة� ب ة و ة بر ص ر ج ة � � �� ب� ب � � ا ��ل � ���ة��� ��ب ��� �م�ة��� ��ب ��� � �ة�ا ب� ب �� � �� ��ل���ب � � � � ج ك ب�����د ا �� ��ط��ل�ع ة� ���� د � � ا ح � ل� � � ل ��� �ود ا ��ر ا ��س� د �ل��ك ك ب � � � � ة ة و و ب ة ر ة ة ة ة� م م ةم ب �� ب � � ا ��س ا �� �ب � ا � �� ا ��ل � �� � ا �� ��ة � � ل � � � �ود���ا �و���د ا ا �ر ب���ل ك� ���ا ب� ��ل�� �م��رب��� ا ل � � � � � م ج � � � � � ا ح � � � � � م م ل� � ة �ل و ب � ب � ب م �و� ص ب �و ر � ةر �� � � ب � � � �ب � � ب ا �� ب� � ب ا ا �� ��� �ب ��ا ب��ل �وا ��ر �و��ه� ب��ا �مة��� �و�ب��م�ا ا �ش����ةرا ب�� ��ا �ه ��ر�م� ��ة ر م�ر�و� مص ���ة ر � او �� �م� ل� ك�� �� ب ة ة ة� م ة� �م � � �ب �� ا �ة ب ا ب �ب ة � � �و�ل� ا ��ل �س�� ح��� ���د ه. ط���ل� ��لة� ���م �ة� � ة � ب � ة ب � � ب ب ب ب ب � � �� ��ا ��� � ب� ا �� ا ل � �ة ب � ا ���ا د ا ��ا �ه �ل��� ��ره ك��� ة� ا � ك � او �ل��عرب� ك�� � ة �ر� � ح��ة�� �ل�� �مص � او �ل�د ��ة� �ب� � �كة� �و ص ب با ش ة ب ة � ة �حج ��م� ة ب ب� ا ب ش ب ب ��س��ا ب��� ب�� � �ب ��دة��م �م��د �ع���رة�ص ��س��� �و�ه�و ب�� � �� �سود ا �و�ة� �� �����را �مص �� �سو�� ا �ل ة �� ةر�ل���ةص �� حة ا ب� ب ب ��مش�� � ح� ���ط � ا ���ل�ة��� ��ب �كة�ةس��ا �حج ا ������ةه �صة �و�ه� �مة��ة�� � � او �ع ���ط�ا �ب ا ��ا ه �و�ة�� � � � � � � ب ط�م�� ��ة� �ة و � ة� � ب � � ب ة و و ل ة � � ة � ة ة � �ب �ة ة � � �ة ا �ب �ل ا � ة � � � �ة ة ب � � ا ��ل � � � ك ا � ج � � � � � ع � د د ح ل ل � � � او �ب�� �ة�����ل ا ��ة� � � � ل � � � ك ���د ���� � �م� � ب ب ��ع� ا ��ة� ���ل ب و � ة� � ب و ة� �ب��ب ا ��ل ا � � ا ة ب ب � � � � ة ا��ا ب ة ا ة ة ة ب ا � � ة ة ش � � ةا�� �� �ل ��ط� ب��� �مص د �ل��ك ا �ل�د ا ا � ����دة��م ب�����د �م� ك�� ��� �م� � ����د � �ل�� �م �و�ل� �ل�� �لع��ص �و�ل� �� ك���ل �ة� ب � ب ة � ة ة � ���ا ب�� ة��� � 1ه �������� �����د �م�ا ا ا ا � ���ع� ����ل ب� ���د ���� � ب� ��ع� �مك� ك� �مش���ل ��� د ����� ���ل�م� �و� �حج� ����� � و ة� ة ب ب ة � � ش ح� � � �ب ���ش�� � �م�ا ا � ة �� ب�ك ب��ا ���ل���ا �ل���ل �س��ب��ا ده ب� ش����� ا �ل�� �م بص ����ل ب�� ��� � او ���و���ب��ا ة� ����� ك� ك � �حج� ا �ل��د �ة� م و ر ا � ر ة� ة ة ة �� �لة��� ب شة ا� ةص. ا �����را ��� ب�م� ةر � �ا �ب �ة � ة ة ا ���ل �ة �� � ب�ر�و� �ع ب��د بد ��ل��ك ا �ل����ب�� �س�ة��م ب��ا ك�� ���دده ب��ا � ة � �وب�ر ب� � �� �م�ا ل ب���� � ح�ة� ة�ل���� ��ر� او � و ب �� ة م� ج ع � ب �ة �ة�� ��ل �ل��ل�م��ل��� ��ا �ب�� ا ��ل��ل���ل�� � �لة��ع ش����ا �ع ب��د �� ب���ل�م�ا ب � � ا ة ا �ل����ب� �م� ب���� ب� ة ة ب �ة� ة �����م �كة �صو�م �مص ا �ل��ة� �م ����ة� ب��� و ة م ب ةع � ب �� � ا �ة ا � � � ب ة ا ��ل����ب��ة �ة � ا ا � � ا ب���ة � � ا ��ل����ب�� � ��ره �و ب� ��ل� �ة� �م�ا �ل��ك �ة�ا �م��ل��� ���ل ة� �ل��ل�م�د ��و� م� � �ل� ح� �� د ر �و م� � د ةرد ب � � � ب ب � ب م � ب ة ا ��ل����ب��ة ب ا ة ةا�� ب ��� ب ا ح�ب��د �ة�� �م����ل�م �ة�� ��ل ��ل حب �ب � ���د ا ش���ر�ب� ���� � ل�� ��ره � ح� ب� ا �م� � �رة��د �� ك���ل �مص ا ك��ل��� .ة ً ة� �ة� و �� ة ص ص أ ���ا ف� ي 1ال��ص�ل :ل� ��.
88
88
٦٠،٤
٦١،٤
٦٢،٤
Chapter Four
“What do you want these odds and ends for?” I asked. “They’ll make us a laughingstock.” He repeated his request and departed, annoyed with me. Left with no choice, I negotiated a price of thirty pieces of silver with the man, unfurled a handkerchief, and gathered everything up. I followed my master back to the priest’s house. “Did you buy it all?” he asked.
4.60
“Yes.” “For how much?” “Thirty miṣriyyahs.” He laughed and said, “You paid too much.” He took the handkerchief from my hand and went into his room. After a few moments, he returned the handkerchief and some of its contents. “Throw it out,” he said. Now, I was bewildered by all this, but my master knew what he was doing. Among the odds and ends we’d purchased was a rough stone worth a tidy sum. Later on, I’d learn exactly what it was, as he registered it in his diary on that date, referring to it by name as a certain type of rare and precious gem. My master was knowledgeable about rough stones. In this case, he may have bought a stone unknown to anyone else! (I was personally ignorant of this subject, and wouldn’t learn about it during our travels.)64 Strangest of all, he knew all about the medicinal properties of stones. I’d
4.61
once told him that my mother had been suffering from melancholy for the past twenty years.65 So, he went to the jewelry souk and purchased a certain stone for two miṣriyyahs. It looked like a piece of agate, and was pierced. Handing it over, he explained that I was to thread the stone and put it around my mother’s neck, letting it hang down to her chest. When I returned to Aleppo and placed the stone around her neck, she immediately recovered from her long illness. Before that, she hadn’t been able to sleep, speak, or eat in her usual fashion, but when she put the stone on her chest, she returned to her usual healthy self. We’d spent a lot of money on doctors and medicine, but nothing helped except this stone that my master bought for two miṣriyyahs! But let me get back to what I was saying. Each day, we visited the governor so that he and my master could chat together. One day, the governor said to me, “Ask the good doctor to come dine with me this evening.”
89
89
4.62
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
� �� �� � �م ب ���د � ا�ا�م ا ب���ده ب���ة ���ل �م ب ب��ة�ر ش��� � ب���ل�م�ا ة�ر ب��م ة� �ل��ل����بب�� ا ب ة با � �ة� ����ل ك�� � � � � ل � رب و � ص �م� �م ����د � �� ك� ص ة� م � م �� ب � ب ش � ة �ة� �ب�ة�� ش���رب�. �م�ا ����ة� �ب�ا ��ص �ة�ا �م��ل��� ���ل�� �س ��ط��ل� �وب�� ���و ب�� �ود �ع ب��د �ة� �وك��ا � ا ل����ب��� م � ب �ة� ب � ا ا �ش� ب�� ب � ا �ة ب � �ة �� ا ��ا �ب��� �لة��ع ش ط� � � ��س ا ب��م��ل�� �و�����ده د ب��� ا �ل����بب�� �ة ا ���� د ا � ا ��ل � � � � � � �� حة��ً�د ا ح� � ح� س � � � � � ة � و ة�مو وب � و ل � ة ب م م � ة � ب� ب ب ا �� �م � ب �ة ا ش�ل ب��� ب �م ب ة�ل��ا ��� ا ��� �ع ب��د �ب�ا ا �ل����ب� ���ل ب��ا ا ��ة� ا � ���ا � �و�ك ة� ا ����� ة� �وحص ��� �ر� ا �ة� ��را ������ل ب��� ةص ص ب � ب � ب ة ا �� � ب ب ا ���� بل� �� ا �م����ل�م ��ا �ب�� � � � ا �� �ع ب��د ا �ل�������ة ب ب ا ���م ا �ة� ا � د ���ل ب�� ��� ار �ة�� ا�م�د ��و� ب �وك� و �ة� ب ةروج ة� �� �ك��� �ر� �م� � � � ب ب ب � �ب ا � ة �ة � ب � م��ا ب� ا ��ل�� بد �ة� �ه�و �م�ا ��� ب ا ��ل � � �ود ا � ا ��ل ��س��ا ��� د ��ل��ك ا�ا ك� � �� �و ب��ل ح� � �س���م ب��ا �ه ب��ا ك ا �ة� ا � ب ص ر ة ة م م � ب � ب �ة ًا � � � ب ب ب � ب ا �ب � � ب� � � � �ة �ة ب�كب �و�ل �م���� ا ��ة� ��� ار��ة ة� ��ب��ا ���� ا �ل� ��د ا �م ا �� را �م� �ل� .حة��ً�د ا د � �ل�� �ة� ا �ل�د � �� ب� د ���لا ل����ب��� � � ة �ب ا ��ل �ر� ب��د ب���ل ب��ا ا ���� � ك� م��ا �. ة م ب ش � � ا �� � � ا ب ب ا �ب � � ب�م � �ش � � ب�� ��ش � م���ل�ب� � �م�ة��ا ب�ل���ل��ا � ة ��س��ا ب� ب��مة�� ا ���ب� � � ��ا �ه ة�ر ب� ك � د � � � � � ه ل �� � � و �و ة �و � رو ب ر ص و ة� ب ج ع ش � � ش ة � ب � ب � ب � ���م� ب� � ل��� ��ا د � ب��� ا ������ا ��� ا ���� � �� 1م�ا ��م�د �ع�ب���ك � ا �لب �� ����� �ب��� ش��� � ا �ل ��ا ��ط � . � حة�ب�ً�د � � و � ر و ب ة و ر ة وة و و ب ة� ر ة ة رج � � ب �ب � ب��ب� ا ب ب ب �� ا � ب ا � ب � � �و�ل��د ��م �ل ب ا ا ��ل � ح��� بص ب��مة���ل �و �ة� ة��ده ب�� � ا �� �ر� �ب� ب��ل�و��ص �ل�م� ب��ل��س�� �ربج �مص د ا ���ل ا ر م � ً � �� � � � ب ًا ب��ب� ا ب � � ب ة � ب��ب� ا ب ة �ة �ه� ه ب��ا �ع ���ط�ا ه �ل��ل����بب�� ��� ب�� � �و�ل� �ل � �ه�وه .ا ب��ة�را �ة� � بو�����ده ا �ع ��ط�� ا �ة� م���ل��م� ا ة�� � �� � � � ٢ � ���ة ر ب و ة ة � � ب��ا ب� ��ل ب��ا ب��ل�� �ة�� ب �ة��ة ب �ب�ا ��� ��ود ا �� ��ة��ا �ة��و ب�� . �س�ة��ا � �� او ة�لة����ا ��ر� او ك� � ����ا ��� ���ا �ام�هة��ا د � �� حة�ب�ً�د ا � ة � ح� ةص ص � � � ب ا �ب ش � ب � م ا ا� ا� ا �ب ب � � ب � ب � �و�����ده ا �� ا �ل����بب�� �ة� ��ل��د �ل��ك ا �����ل� � ا�ام�د ��و� �ب�ا ��� �ة� ���� ا�م� �ة��ده كب����د �م� ر��ص ا �����ل� � ا�م� �ة��ده � � ة ر ب ة م م بب ة � �ة ب ب �ة � ب �ب � ش �� � � ب ب ب ا � ��� ا �� � عع� ا � ار د � بو����ده � ���� �و�و� ا �ة� ب���ة���ة��� �� ���� �م�ل �صو��� �ب��د �ع ب� �ود �و�ا ا �ل����س��� ر � ب ةة و� ب � ع � ب � ب � ��ا � ��ل ب��ا � ٣م ب ا �ل ���ا ����� �م ب د �ع� � �و��د ا ة�لب ����� � ��� ا ب�ل ط�� ���ل �م ب ا �ل �و� ا �ل�� ك�� � � حة��د �وك� �ر� � �وة�ب� � ��م� ��� � ب ب ل ص ص ص ر ب ب م ب �� � � ب ب ب ب � � � � � � ا � ش ا ا � ب ب م�� � �وك�� � ���دد � ط� �و� ا �ل� ك���ل �ع��� � �م ��ة�ر ام ب ب� ��ا ب�� ب� د �ل��ك ا� ك� �����. �� رةص ص ة � ً � � � � ب ب ا� �� ح�ب��د ا �ل����ب��ة �� � ح ب �����د � ا ب���را ���ا � � ��ة��د � ��ل ب��ا � ط�� ط�� ب� ة �ص ب ��ب��� ا �ل�ل�د �ة��ده� .ة ً حص �مص ا�م� او لة���ل ا ����ة �� ٰة م � ب اً � ب ّ � ة � ح ب � ����م�ةح�� ب ���حج��م ��ا ��س� لل� �و�م�د ���ده � او ك����ل �م ب د �ل��ك ا ��� ط�� � ��� ةص �و�م�د �ة��ده �م����ل��م� ا �ة�� ة ص ص ة� ب م ة � � ة ة ب ب ا � � ب � ب � �� ��سة � ب � � ا ا � � ط ش ا � ب � � ��د � ����م�ح��ةص �ك���ح� �ل ا �����ل� � د �ل�ك � �ة��ة�ر ا ك� � او � ب�� � ����ل ب�� ك���ل � او � حص �و ب�� ب� ��ة�ر � او ���ر� او م � ح ب � � �ب����� ا ���ب���ل�� ���بد ا ��ا حب ح�� ب���ره ب��ا �ة ب�� ��ة ��ا ب� ب��ا � � ����ل� او �� ��ة��م�ةح�� ب �م ب ا ��� ط�� ط�� � � � � � � � ك ة ب ر و و ة ة ب ب ب ��� ة ص ةص � ص ص ة بم د ��ا � � ب� � �م ب��� ا ��� ����ة ش ة � ة ش �� م� �ةب � ا ب � ا ب � ة ة ب � ا ب � �ا �ة ب � ��س� ا � �����ل ب� ����ة� ح���ر ة���م� ��ة� �ل���ح� � ا �ل��رك �� ��ط� � لب��� ب �ة� ب بج و ربج � � ب ب ب ة ح��� � ا د ا ��ب���ل�� � �ةر������ �وة ب� �ب��ل�م�ا �م����ل��م ا ك�� حة� ب� ��ة�ره ��� � ���ل �م ب��� ا ��س� �� �� س� �ع� او �ة��د �ه� ح�� ب ة ر ب ة� � م م ة أ أ أ ف 1ال��ص�ل� :وا�ل����ه ٢ .ال��ص�ل :ف� ف���� ف� ح�ا � ٣ .ال��ص�ل :ا ف�ا.
90
90
٦٣،٤
٦٤،٤
٦٥،٤
Chapter Four
When I relayed what His Excellency the governor had proposed, my master looked pained and said nothing. “What’s wrong, doctor? You don’t want to eat my food?” the governor asked. “Tell His Excellency that I would be honored to do so,” my master told me, “but we can’t eat without having a proper drink.” I translated this response for the governor, and begged him not to take offense. “Not to worry, doctor!” said the governor, who was himself a drinker. Turning to me, he said, “Tell him that I have what he wants.” They laughed and agreed to have dinner together. The governor went to the
4.63
Palace of Justice and we returned home. In the afternoon, he sent two of his attendants to escort my master over. We went with them to the palace, where we took our seats in the area between the private chambers and the government house. When the governor entered, we rose to our feet out of respect and he invited us to join him in the harem. A salon with sumptuous furnishings awaited us. Delightfully sprawled out
4.64
before it, extending as far as the eye could see, was an orchard full of orange, lemon, and citron trees, and other trees besides. The governor invited us to be seated, and a handsome and elegant young servant boy emerged from the harem bearing a cup of coffee, which he presented to the governor. He brought some coffee for my master and me, as well as some pipes packed with agarwood-scented tobacco. They sat and conversed for an hour, then the governor ordered the servant to prepare dinner. The boy set the table, placing on it a silver platter ornamented with gold. He wrapped a cloth napkin around it, on which he laid some loaves of bread. He brought some good wine and a gold cup, and began to carry in plates of food from the harem, placing them off to the side. There were twenty plates of food in all, not counting the desserts. The boy set about serving us one delicious plate after another. The governor pronounced the name of God and reached forward with his hand, eating a couple of morsels from the plate. My master and I did the same, each of us taking a couple of bites. The servant boy took away one dish and presented the next, and we continued in this way, eating a couple of bites from each dish before the boy served the next one.
91
91
4.65
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
� ب � � ة ب � � �ب ب ب ب ��بم�����ك �م����ل��م ا ��� ط�� � ع او �ة��د ا � ب���رب� ح بص �و���ا � �ة��د �م ����ل ��ط �رة����� ��ة� �ل����ا �ب�� �ل� � ���د ا ��ل�� �� � � ة� ج ّ ���ب �� ا� ا��ا ب ا ��ل����ب �ب ب ب ا ا�ا� � ب ة ة ة �ة �����ا �� ب�� �م�ا ا � � � � � ط ا � � ل � � � � � ك � � ا ا � �ك و م� ���د � �د � ل� �م� ك� � ب �� ة ة� �مص ���د م�د �ر��ل ب� ���ة� م � �ل��ك �ة�ا �م��ل��� . م ا ��ل����ب ةة �� ب ح�ب��د ��� ة � �ة �و�ة��لة���ل�� ��ا ��س��د �� ��ل�� ة� � � � ل د ح����ل �م ب���ك ��� او ���د �م بص ���ل�� ا �ل�د ب� س� ة ة ة �ة ً ب ة �ل ب �� ب � ب ة ب ب اب ��� �� ا ب��م�� ��� ب ا� ا �� � ح�ة� ا ب�ب��ر ب� ح ب��ا �ب��ك �ب�ا � �ك��س� ����ل �رب� � � ع ا �ل� ك���ل ��ة� ا�م� �ة��ده �وك���ل ع او �ة��د �ه�م �ب� �����م �ة�� و ة ة ج م ب � �ب ب � ب �� ا � حب��� � �مب � ا�� ب � ط�� ط�� ���د ا ا �� ب��� ب�ع ح ب ا ��ل�� بد �� ب�لة�ب�ه � � ح ا �ل�د �� � ا�ام�و ب� � حب��� �و �صو� ا �ل�� ��ة� ���م ب�لة�� ك���ل �مص �ص ة ر ل ص ب بج � � �� � ا�ام�ا �ة��ده �و�ل� ب���ل ����ل ���ب�� ب� �م��س����� �و�مب�� ا ��ب���ل�� � �ع بص ا ب���د ه. م ع � ب � ب � ب ا ا� ا � �� � ا ةل� ة ���ك ا �ل����بب�� �ة � او �� ا ���ب���ل�� � ��ا ب� ��ل�� ة����� د �ةر�ب�� � ��ة� �ك��ل �ب�ا �كة� ة� �و� مص �م� ة��ده ا �ة� م� �م ط��� � و ب ر � م � ب �� ة ا ة ة �� � ع ��ب � �� � ب ��� ا ش � ا � ب ب � ل � � ط ا ا � � ا ��� � ل � ط�� � � ا � �و ب� � او � ة � ا � ك ا � م ك ح � �د ل د � � � � �� ��� � � � �س�ة��ا � �� او �ة�ا ك��ل�و �وة بر �و ص ل�ك ر ب ة ة� � م � ب ة � �� �و� �� �� � ً � � ب � ا ��� � او �� ب�� �� ا �� ��� ا � ��ة �م�ا ������ا �مش�ة��� ��ب� ك�� م ��ر .ا ب��ة�را ش��� �ر �� او ا � ��ة��ه�وه �وب� بر���وا ���ل ا �ا ���� �س � � او ك��ل� او ة� و ة ة� ل ة ة ب � � � ب ب� ة ا �� ب �� � ا ���� ة ب � ب� ��س��ا � ا�ام�د ���و� �و�ه ب��ا ك ���ا � �ل ب��ا ا � ش��� ار � �ع ���ة�� ���� �ل��ل�ك ا�ا��ر�و ب� � او�امة��ا ة� �ة� د ل�ك لب ج ج م� ة � � � ة ة ب ب ب � ة ��ل ��ا ���� ��ب� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل��س� او ��� � او ��ب���د �ا � ب��ا � ة � �س���م ب��ا ا ��ة� ا � ا �م����ا ا�ام����ا � او � ا ���و�ك ة�. ة اب ة ة � ً � �ا ب �ا ب � ب � ح ب��ا �م ب بد ��ل��ك ا ��ل�� ة ح�ب��د ا �� ا �ل����ب���ة ش ب ب ب ا ب��ة�را ب�ر ب� ��س��ا ب� ا ��� ا�ا ك� م�� � ا �ل��د �ة� ل ب��� �كة���� .ة ً ر ب ب �� ا �ل���ةص �مص ص ة ة�ة ب ا ��ل����ب ب � � � ا ب � � � � ب ا �� � ة �� ا � �ة � ة ش ة � � � � � � � � � � ل � ا � � ك �� و��س � ��دا م� �ب� � ة����ل� او مه�� ا ة� ب�ة��� ا لب�� د � ة� .و �ة�ً�د م�� ��مة� �سم�� ر ب �ة ر ب � �ر ب ح���ة �ة���ب����ك ا ��ل��ة�ل ب��� ب ����ل�� �و�����ده �س ب� ب ا �� �م � ب ا � ط�� �� ب� ةص. ��ة���� ا �ة� ��ل�� � ب ة ة ب � � ا ب ا ��ل����ب حة ا �ب��� ب�ك ب��ا �م ب ا ب ��ل � ا � ة �ة ب ا ��� � �� � ب��مب��� ا ��� �ع ب��د ا �ل����بب���ة � � � �ة� ��ل�� � � �م � � � ب� و �س���م�� ك��ل ة وم ة� ة� �� �ة� ر ص ةع ب � ة � ب ة ب ب ة ب � ة ح��ا ا ا ا ا ا ا ب ب � ب ��د �كب� ��ط� ا � ك� ��ر���لة��� �و�م� ��� د ���لة��� �ب� ��ص �مص ا ����ل �ل��ل�ك ا �لب���ل��د �� � �� ��� �ة ��و� �ب� � � او � ��ب� ة� م � ب ة ب ب� � ة �ب ب �ل ب��ا �ب�ا � �ر�� ب� �م بص �م�دة�ل ب��� ا � ��هة �صو�م ��م��ر����ا ��� ���و ب�� �ود ��� ���ود ا ��س�ود ���لة� ��ط ��� �ة� �و�س�ص�و� ة ب � ا� � �ب ب ��ل � �ة ا � � ا ا � ة � ة�� ���� �وةر �و م� ���د ��د � ة����ر�� ا ة� ش��ص �ه�و ����ل ��� ���ود ا�م�و ب � �ود �ة� ����ل ا �ا ���ة� ا �ر�م��ل ً � ب ب �ب ب ب � ب ا ب � ���ا � ���ل�� �ع بص ب�� ا �ل��د �ة� �م�ا ب��ة�� ب�صو ب���د �ك ح�ص�وه �� ب� �حج� ���ل�م� ���م� �م����ل��مة� �مص د �ل��ك ا �ر ب���ل �ب��ر ة� ع بب � ب ��ا ب ب ة ��ا ��ل ��ا ش��� ��ب ا�ا�م����� ا ��ل��� � �م ب ب��� ا �ب�� � ش����ا ب� � ا � د �ل��ك ا ����� � ��ود �و���د ا ك�� � ��� �ة�� ا ��ب�� ����ة� ا �ل ب ر ة� ة ر ة و ص ة ر ة و� ب ب � � ��م�ا � ة �� � ا ��ل��ا د �� ا �� �ب ��ا ب� ا � ة ��ر ����ل ��� ���ود �و�م�ا ا �ك�ة � �سم � ح�ة� ب�رك� ب� �وب�ر �و� �لب�ب� ��رة� � ب � ة رة� ب ��ر ج � ب � ب � � � � � ب ة ة � � �ب ا ��لب ب � �� �ة� �و�م�ا ا � ���د ح ��طر ا�ام�و ب�� �ود ��ة� �ل��ل�ك ا �ل��م�ا ��بص ب�ل��ل ك��ا � �م�ا �م بص �ب�ا ��� �م� به �صو�ل �ع ب��د ا ل����ب��� �� ة ة ���ةحم�ة ب�لة����د � ة ��م��. 92
92
٦٦،٤
٦٧،٤
٦٨،٤
٦٩،٤
Chapter Four
He presented us with a dish of chicken, from which wafted a ravishing aroma. Its Turkish name was kazan kebabı.66 My master tasted it and found it delicious. The boy was about to remove the dish and bring another as he had been doing, but my master held on to the platter, complaining in French about this manner of eating, which was contrary to the customs of the Franks. I burst out laughing at this sight, and could hardly speak as the governor asked what was the matter. “My lord, please don’t hold this poor etiquette against him,” I said, kissing
4.66
the hem of the governor’s robes. “These Franks have the custom of placing all the food on the table at the same time, and each person eats from the dish that he likes. My master enjoyed the chicken dish that was just brought to the table. That’s why he grabbed it and stopped the servant from taking it away.” The governor laughed, and ordered the servant boy not to take away the
4.67
dishes from the table until they were finished. So they sat eating and drinking that good wine until all the dishes were finished. They had dessert and fruit— which had no parallel in all of Egypt—and finally some coffee. We strolled out into the orchard, whose meadows, streams, and brooks filled us with a great sense of contentment. We remained there until evening fell and the time came for us to go. We left the orchard and went back to where we’d been sitting. The governor
4.68
ordered two of his servants to accompany us to the home of the priest, and my master heaped praise on the governor, thanking him profusely, and we headed home with the two servants. We continued to visit the governor every day. Soon enough, everyone knew we were under his protection, and we no longer felt threatened by the townspeople. One day, we were told by a Copt that an hour from Fayoum there was a tall, stout black column with images drawn on it.67 No one knew how such a column had come to be built in this sandy region, where there wasn’t a single pebble to be found, let alone any large stones. When my master heard about this column (such things were of great interest to him), he immediately set about preparing for the trip. Without consulting the priest, he ordered me to rent a donkey so he could go see the column. He paid no mind to the dangers in those places, secure in the thought that he was in the good graces of the governor and that no one would harass him.
93
93
4.69
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
ب ب ب� ب ب ح��ا � �� ب �� ش ب ب � ا �لة��� �كب��ب��ا �و��� �بر�ا �م� د �ل��ك �كب����د �م�ا ا ���د��ا �م�ه ب��ا ���ة�رة�ل ب��ا ا �ع��ة� ا ك���ل ب��ا �و��� بر�ل ب��ا �و�م�ا � ةجب � �ب ب ع � ��و� �ب�ب� بر��ل ب��ا �ه ب��ا ك �ب ا �ل ب��ا ��� ���ود �ش���ا � بم ا ���ل �م�� � ا ��� ا ب� �و����ل ب��ا ا ��� �ع ب��د د ��ل��ك ا �����ا ���ود ا�ام�د �� � ��� �ة� ر ة ة ة ج �� � �و ب���لة ب� ���ط ���مش���ل ا ������ا ���ود ا ��ل�� بد �ة� �اة�ل ب��ا ه ��ب� �م�دة�ل ب���ة ا �ل��� ك� �ب��د ���� ب�ل��ل ا ب��� بل���ط � او ��� �و�مب ��ة��و��شص ���لة��� ة �س� ة ة� بً � ا ش ��ل�� � � � ا ب ب �� ا ا ة � ب ب ب � � ب ب� ا �ة�� ���ا �مش���ل ��ة � �صو� �ود �ب� �ب� � ا ع��ة� �عر�ل�� �و�م�و�ه �وك�� ب و ب �س��� �و�م� ة���سب��� �ب��د �ل�ك �مص ة � ب � ب �ب � � �و��شص �و���د ا ك� ����ل�� ا ��ب���ا ب ���ط �و� ا �� ��و� ح ة� �م���ا �ة� ���� �م�ا ا � �� �ود �ع ب��د �ه� ح�� �ة� �م����ل��م� �ل� � � ��و ب�� � ة� ة م ة �ة ة ب ة � � ك��� ب� � �� او ة�� ب����بم�ب�� �ع بص ����ل ا ��ب���ا ب ��ط. ج ة ا ب �ًا �����د � ا ا �ة � ب ا �ه ب��� ب � � �ب �ة �ب ا ا ب �د �ب ب �� � ا �� �كة ة �� ب����� ب ��� �مب �ة ��ش ��ة ر ب م� ���� رح�� ة �� و� ر� �� �ة� د ل�ك ��و � ة م � �ل ���و ص ���ة� ج ب � � � ��ل ب��ا ��م�ة��د ا �م�ا �لة��� ب ا ������ا ���ود ��م�ا د ��ل ب��ا � او �ل�� ���ا � � ةص � ب���ل �م بص ا ����ل �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل���ا ب���� � ح�ب��ا ه � ب � ة و ة ة ش ب � ة � � �ش ب ب � ��ا ب �� ب ا ب ا ا � ة ب � ةص ا �ر�و��ص ب���م���� ��سو��� � � ك � � ك ةص ا�امب�ب� م�� � ���د ��� او �كة�ب��ا � �وة�� ��و� �� او �لب��� ب� �����م ب����ص ب � � ��ر �و��� ��و ة ب ا ب � ب ا ��ا ب � � ب � ب �ب � م��ا ب� ��� ���ودة� بص ��� ��م� � ا ب��دا د �� �وك�� � �� او ةح�� �� او �ل���ب����ا ة�ل ب��ا �ب�ا ب� ا ب��ا ا ��� ���د ا ا�ا ك� ��� ����ل � ك� م��ا � ة ة � ة ة � ب ���د � �م� � د �م�د � �� ا ������ا ���د �ب� ���ط�� ه � ا ب���د ا ��ل��د�ع� ا ��ل�� بد �� � ة � � ا ح��� �و ب��� ب� �و���د ا ا � د � � � � ةر و � او � �و ة� و م �ة� و و ة ب ة � � ة � ب � ة ب ب ب ب �د � ح ة� ا �����ا ���ود �و��ة�ر�ه� �كب���ل �م�ا ة���عة� ب� � �وة�ا ���د ا �ل��د�ع ب� د �ع� �وب�ا � ��هة���ل�� � �وب�ا ���د ا �ل��د�ع ب� ا�ام�و ب�� و بة م ة � ب � �ً� ب ً ب ة �وا ���د ب�����د � او � � او � او � ���د � �وة������� ع �وب�ا �ب�ا ���د ا �ل��د�ع ب� �م ب��� ا �و �ل� � او ��ة�را � ��هة���ل�� �و���ا �� او ة ب�� ب�لة�� ��و� �� او د � � ة� � �� ة � �ب ب ح�� � � ��ة �� ���� ا ا �� �م����ل�م ا �ع ��� ب ا ب ح ة� ا �����ا ���ود � او �ل� �مب ��هة���ل�ك. ���� �مص ����ل د�ع ب� ا �ل�د �ة� �ه�و ا � ار ب� � م وة و و ة� �ة� ة ب � ه � ا �ب ا � ة� �ب � �م� �ل � ا � ب ب ��� �ة��و������ � . حة�ب�ً�د �ة��ة��د �م ة� �و�ة��لة��� �ب�ا ��ل��د �ة� ا � ���ا � �ة�� و �� ��م� م� ك ح� � ح���و و � �ر ب م م ة ش � � � � ب � � ب ا � �م ب ا � ا � � � ���م��ل ب �م ب ا �ل � ا � � ��ش ا ���هة��ا ه ���ل�م�ا ا ب ب� � � ا � � ع � � � � ع � � ل د د � � ل � ص � � � � � ل � � � ك � � � ة ب �ل و و ص ة �و�� ��ة ب� � ص وب ة� ص ر ب ة� ص وة � �� ب �ب��ع � ب ب � �� ب ة ���م� �م����ل��م �مب��� ����ل ك�� مو ة� �و���ا � �ة��ة���� ك�ة ��� �م��ل �و م��� ��ل�� �م ا �ة��ه� بص �ب�ا �ا � ةص ا�ام�ه� ب� �وك�ة ��� ة� ة� ة ع � �ب ب ا ب� �ة � ة � � ب � حة � �� � � � ب ة ة ة ش � � � � � ع ل � � � � � � � ا ا ا � ا � � � � ب�لة����ة ر كة��� � ��ل� د ��ة� �ع��ص م���� و� ���ل ا ل�د �ع ب� ��ر� �ل���م ��ب� ر و �ة� ة ة م ع آ � �� �ب د �ع� ه ة ب� ب� ا ��ل��د�ع� ا � ��لً�� � �ب�ا ب���ده �م���ب � � او �ب�ا ب���د �و ���� � � �و���� ���ط� ا ���� ك� ح���� �م� �� ���� �� ل� س� � ل� ب و و و ر ص ة ج م �ة ب ة� بة م � ب ب ة ة � � ة � ب � � ع ا �ل��د �ة� �م��ر�ة��ده �و �ة� ����ل ك��ل� � ��طج�م�س��� �و �م� ���و������ . م ٰ �م م �� � � ب� ا ب �� � �ب ب �� � ا �� �كة ة � �ب �ةل�� � ا �� ب �ة � ا �ة ا �ب ا ا ّ � � ا � ب ب ة ب � � � � � � ك �ل م � ع � � ا � �د ع � � � ل � � � � � لل � � � � � � �� � ل ر � �� ب و و �ة� د ل�ك ��و � و �ة� ك � ة ب ةب رج ة ب ةص � �ص ب ب ب ب � ب � ة�م � � � ش �ب �م ب ب �� � ة �ب ���د �ب�ا ���ل�م�ا � ب��� ��س� او �ل��ل�ك ا �ل�� او د � ��� د �ل��ك ا �ل � او بل ك �وا د �و��ا � حة��ا �ل �ا ك� ب� ب � حة��ا �ل ����م� ص ر م ة ب ��� �م ب ا ��ل��د ب��ا ب� � �م�ا ���د ة� ة� ا �مب��� ا � � �ك�� �ة��ه� ب� ا ��لب� ���م �م ر و � �� �بر �� او ب��مة�� � ��د � بو�����د �ع�ةس���� �و����ل ل ص م ب ب ب �ة �ب بد ��ل��ك ا ��ل حة��ا ��ل ا ���� �ع ب��د �ب�ا ب���ل�م�ا �ا �ب�ا ب� بر��ل �ع بص ب� �وا ده �و���ل��� ����� �م����ل��م� ب��م��ر�كة��� �كة��� ��ة� ��� ار �� � ة ة ة م ة 94
94
٧٠،٤
٧١،٤
٧٢،٤
٧٣،٤
Chapter Four
We gathered some food, drink, and other necessary provisions, and set off
4.70
with the donkey, eventually arriving at a towering column, which was both tall and stout—like the column we’d seen in Alexandria, but even taller and thicker. It also had birds and other animals inscribed on it: gazelles, panthers, dogs, lions, and other such wild beasts. According to my master, these images were all secret signs that contained meanings, which were explained in chronicles held by the Franks. After we’d rested for a while and had some breakfast, my master set about
4.71
copying the inscriptions on the column. All of a sudden, we were surrounded by a crowd of two hundred men! They were locals—barefoot, bareheaded, and ugly—and they began to talk among themselves as they glared at us. In the days of their ancestors, I heard them say, there had been two columns in this spot. Their fathers had been told a story about a European who turned up, muttered a spell over one of the columns, and made it vanish. He took the gold that was buried under it and disappeared. “Let’s kill this one and get the gold that’s under the column before he disappears with it!” they shouted. “No, let’s take the gold from him first, and then kill him!” others retorted, and began, mouths agape, to stride up to my master one by one to address him.68 “Give us the gold under that column, or we’ll kill you!” My master couldn’t understand what they were saying. Trembling and near
4.72
senseless with terror because of those savage brutes, I rushed over and told him what they’d said. My master was certain we were going to die. “What shall we do? How can we escape? What will happen to us?” he cried. “Let me talk to them,” I said, turning to speak to the men. “Be patient so that he can extract the gold and give it to you—and save a share for me while you’re at it,” I said. “Let’s have him bring the gold out, then we can take whatever we like.” Hearing this, they settled down and stopped shouting. Just then, God saved us from our predicament! Out of the bowels of the earth a great dust cloud rose, then lifted to reveal a horse and rider heading toward us. The men saw him and fled like bees from smoke, disappearing without a trace. A few moments later, the horseman arrived and, when he saw us,
95
95
4.73
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
�� ب � � ��ا �هة��� ب ��ب��ا �� . �سو��شص ���لة� �� �ة� �و���ا � ة�����ا �ل ب��ا �م�ا �� �� ع �و�ة� بص���� .ل ا � حة�ب�ً�د ا � ك � ل� ���د �ش � ةص ��ر� ب� ا ل����ب��� ب ح��ة م ّٰ � م� ة ��ل�� ��ا ��ل�� بد �ة� ب� ار ���ل�ب��ا �م ب �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل��� او د � ا ����و� ح ش��سة��� �وك� ��ة��ب� ا �ب���� �ة����د � �وب�ا �ب�ا � ��هة���ل �و���و �م�ا ا لل� ب ة ص م م � � � ب ا ��ا ب ب � �ب ب ا � � �م ا �� ة ب ا � � � � � � ك �� ب�� ��� ا �����لك ا �لة��� ك� ل�� � �� او ��� او كة��� �ل� �� �ل� . � � �ا �� ب ا ���ا ب� ��ب� ب�ة ة � � ب � � ��م � �� � ب ب ا ا ب � � حة�ب�ً�د ��طج�م ب ب��ا ��ط �بر�ا � او � ك� ��س�ع� ا �ل�د ة� �ه�و ص ح�� ل�� ���ب�� ب� بحة�� ا �ة� ع��د �� �ب� �� ك ة � � � ب ب ب � ب �ب � ��ا ����س���ا �وك� م��ا ب� ��� ��� �ود ��ل��ك ا�ا ك� ���ا ب� ب��ا ��ل�� ��� � ك� م��ا � �ب�ة�� ش���ر�� ����� ا �����ا � ��ود ���ة��ا �ل �ا ��ة ة� ة ص ة ب � ة ب ب ب�كة �� � � �ب ة � �ب � � � ة � ل ة ة ة � ا ا ه � � � � � � � ا ا ا ا � � � � �و د ة� و �ة��� �و�ل ا �����ا ���ود ب��م� �ع���ة ر بحب�� و�� عر� م� ه�و ���د ب �م ركب�� ب � � ع ب ع ة � � ب ب ب � � ب � ب ة � � او �ل�� ��� �و �� او �ب�ا �م�ا � �و�ل� �ب ��ع�ة �� او � ا ���ة� ���ا �ه ب��ا � ار �لة� �� ��ا ��� او �م بص ا � ���د. � ة ة م ح ب �د ا �ة ب ا ��� �ب ا � ���د � ا ة�ل ا �ع ب ا � � ب ا � ا � ة �ة ا � �م���ل �� ب����� ب �ةل��ل� ا�ا� ب �ة � � � � ط � � � ع��� و �س��� � ��م� ة م م� ��و�ش���ا ة� � ك � �ة��ً � � و� ب ر و ة �ة م ة ب ج بً � � ب ا ���ة �� بد ��ل�� ا �����ا �� د � ا � ة �س�ة��ا � بد ��ل��ك ا ب�ل ح ب��د �ة� �ع ب��د �ب�ا ا ��� �م�ا ب���ل�� �م����ل��م ���� ب� � � ��� .ا ��ة�را �ة� ��� ك �و و ة ص ة� م � � �� ب ا ة �� ب ة ب � � ة ب � ب ب ب ا ا ب ب ب � � ��س���� � � ح ب��د �� ��ا �ل ب��ا �ر �و� ���ل�ه ب��ا ا ب�ل ل � � ا � � � � � � ك � � � � ا � م � ك ل ا ا �كب���� � او بح��د ة� ه�� ة� � و���ل�� ة� رب� لك �ة ة ب ج � ب ب ا � ة� � � ب �م���� ا ��� ب� ة ب ب ا ��س���� �ود ب���ل ب��ا ا ���� �م�ب� بر�و��ل ا ب��ل � ح ب��د �ة� ة� ة ��س�ه��� �ك��� �ر� �م���� ا ��ة� ا � �و����ل�� ا ��ة� �ل�لك ا ���ة ة � � � ب ب � ب� ��ش � � ش ا � � ة ش �ب ب � ب �� � �� � ب��ا ��م���د �ب�ا ا ���� د �ل��ك ا�ا ك� م��ا � ا �����ا ��ة� ا�ام�د ��و� �و�ه�و م�ر�و ص �و�ل� ��سب�� ب�لة��ك ب������ر� ����� د �ل�ك ة بة ب ً � ة � � ب ب ب ة ب ب ا ا ا ا ب �ب ا �لب��ر �م بص ا ب���� ع ا �� ��ط� �ه .ا ��ة�را ا ��ر�� د �م�� �ب� ��� �ب�� ة ���ة� �ل�� ��د ا �و�ه�و ب�لة���ص �م�����ة� �و ب���بص �وحص ا �� ب ًا ا ب ح ب��ا �م ب ا ��ل�� بد �� �م�ه ب��ا �م ب ا �� ب � ا د � �م ش��� � � �م ب ا ��بل ��� � �����د �م�ا �ة�ب���د�ل ب��ا � ش��� �ل ب��ا � � ة� ب و و و و و ة ص ر ��� ر ص ة بر رب ص ر ب ب ب ة ة � � � � ب � ة ب �ة ة �س���م� ا �ه ب��ا ا �� ��� ب �م�ا ��� د ا ��� �ك ة� � ا �ب�ا � ب � ا با � � �ه� ه � د �ب�ا ��م��� ��مب��ه ب��ا ا ب�ل ة� ةص ة بر و و ح��د ة� �و�� �ل �ل�� ا ة و ة� ا � �� � و ر � ب� ��و���� �� �بر�و� �م� �� �. ل� س� ج م بً ب ا ة �ة م ب ا � ب ب ا ة � ح ب��د �� �م�ه ب��ا ���ب��ا �� ����ا ��� بد ��ل��ك ا ب��ل � � � � � � � � ا � � �س� ا ا ا ا � ك �م ك � � � . � � �� � � � � � ة ة� � � � ر ة ر � ب و� ب ب ب ٰ � �ب�ا ا ّلل� �ة����ا �� ا ��ل�� بد �� ��ا �ب�ا �و�و����ل ب��ا ا ��� ب���� ة� ا ��لب��ا د ��ة� �و�سب���� ��ب� ��ا ��ل ���ب��ة���ل�� �و� ح بص �ش�س � � ة ب ��ر ة ة ة ة � ب � � � � ا �� ة ا �ب ب � � � �ة ة ة ب � ة ب ة � �ب � ب � � � مص ا �و�لة��ك ا �ل��د �ة� ا ��ه�� ه �و �ة� د �ل�ك ا ���وك� �����ة ره �لة��� �م���ل��م� �ة� ا ��� �ةر�وج ا �ة� ا �ا د ة� ة � � �� �� ب �ب ة ��ا ب � ه � ا �ب � � � � � � ا �� �ةل�� � ا ��ل ب ا � ا ��ب �� �ب�ا ��ب ����ا ��ة ل � � ح ه � د ط ك � � ا �ل��م�هة��د ا �ل��د �ة� ��د ك�� � ر��س�و ب� � �ل� ةروج �ة� لك �صو �ة� ر م ر ة� ب �� ا ��لب � �ا ب ���ا. ح ��ط� ب� �ع � � � � ب � ب ب �ً � ة �ة ���د ا ب��م�ا �س���م ب��ا �ع ب��د ا �لب��ا د ��ة� �م بص ب��ة�ر ا ب�ل ب��ا �� ��طر�� � ا ا ��ة را ا بر ة� ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� �و�ل�� �ة�د � � او � م �ب��د � � ب�لة��ب� ب ه د ا ب���ل��ا � ��� �م�د �ل ب��� ك� ب ب � ا ب ب � ��ش هة �����ا �ة���ب���ا � ا ��� ا ���ا ���ا �����ا ��و ب� و� و ر � و �ل ة ���� �مص ا � �رة� ��ص �مص �� ر ب ة � و و ب ش �� ب�� ب ا ة� � � � ة � � ب � � ش � ا ا ا ا � � ب � ��� ا �ل�ل�د �ة��ده �و��� ار � ��ش�ة�ره �و�ب�� او ك� ل�� ح��� ا� ك ��س��م��� � � ل��ص ا � او د �س��� ك�� ����� �و�� ة ة� ة �و��ص �مك� د ��ر�� � او � ����م��ل م 96
96
٧٤،٤
٧٥،٤
٧٦،٤
٧٧،٤
Chapter Four
dismounted from his steed and came over to greet my master, whom he recognized from the governor’s palace. “What’s wrong? The two of you look terrified!” he said. “Did someone harass you?” We told him what had happened with the wild men, and how they’d threatened to kill us. “They’d have put us to death, no doubt about it, had God Almighty not sent you!” I said. He reassured us that we were safe, and explained why he’d come. It seemed
4.74
that he’d been in the nearby village where he served as magistrate, and was sitting on top of a hill with a view of the column. “I was surprised to see a large crowd gathered around the column, and I wanted to know what was going on,” he said. “So I got on my horse and rode here, and found you. You can relax now. No one will trouble you again.” We calmed down, our fright subsiding. My master went back to copying
4.75
the inscriptions on the column. The soldier stayed with us until my master had finished his work, and then we set off all together. As we drew close to the soldier’s village, he invited us to visit it. Soon afterwards, we arrived at the soldier’s house, and climbed up to the spot he’d mentioned. It was furnished, and had windows that looked out over the countryside in every direction. He ordered his servant to prepare some fried eggs and cheese for lunch, and we also took out our own provisions and wine. After we’d had lunch and some coffee, we got up to leave, but the soldier protested. “Stay a little longer until the weather cools off, then I’ll take you back,” he said. So we stayed until the afternoon, then rode off together. The soldier deliv-
4.76
ered us to the priest’s house, went on his way, and we thanked God Most High for saving us from those savages! That’s when my master decided against going to Upper Egypt, what with its dangerous territories that he’d been urged not to visit, as I’ve already mentioned. We stayed with the priest and never set foot outside the city, touring and enjoying ourselves within its confines instead. The city was like a garden, full of orchards, abundant water, delicious fruits, and flowing breezes, but the people were like wild animals, as I’ve said.
97
97
4.77
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
��ل � ب �ش ش ة� ���� �� ب�ك ا ش � � � � ب ��ب ة ح� ��ط�ا � �م بص ����ر�ة�� ����ة� �م�ا �اة�لة��� �� ��ط ة ر ة ة� ��� �م���ل ا �ل�د �ود �ل� �ة� ك��� ا �ا ه ة����ر�ة� ����ة� ا �ة �ش ب ة � ب � � ب ��ب � ب � ب ب ب ب ة � ب � ة ة ��ة� ��ة�ر �ب�ل�د ك���ا ��� ���ل���� �مش���ل ا ��م��ل �و ��ة� ب��ة��� ا �لب��ا د ��ة� ���ة� ب�لة�� ��و�� ا ���و���� �ل� �ة� ك��� ا ب � �ة�م��� �ب ا ��لب ا �ش �� ش ا �� � ا ة �ب �م ة�د ا ب �و��ل ب��ا ا ���� ب���� ة� ا ��لب��ا بد ��ة� �و�م�ا ا ب��� � ��� � �ل � ب�� �ر � �ة� ب�� د � ل � �� ر ة � � � ة ة ص ة ب ة� بة� � ة ب ع ب ة� � �� ة� � او ��� ط�ب� �ر ة� �م ب���. �م��� ��� ��و ة� ا ح� ر ب� ة � ة � ��� ب � ا با ب ا ب ب � � � ب �ة ة � كة �صو�م ��ل� ا �ة� �م���ل��مة� �ة� ة�����د �ة� د �ع�� ����� �ر �مص ����ل �ب�ل�د �ل�� ا � ����م��ل ��د ا ك�ل��ة� � �ة ب ب ة ّ �ب �ة � ب� �ة � ة � ب ب � �� ب ب ��� ب��� ب � ة ���د ا �ه� ا � ب��ه ��ر� ��� رد �م�ل�� ���ل��ل�� � او � ��1. حة�ب�ً�د ���� ����ل �د ��� ح ب� ك�ة��� ا � و ة� ة ة ا �ب ا �ة �ة ��� � �مب � �ب ا ��ل � ب ة ح�� ب���ة ا � � ب ب ����ل� ��ب � ا �� � ا ب� � ا �د � � ا � ����م��ل �م�ا بة��م��س�وك �و � � ل � � ك � ��ا �ل ��م � � � � � ل � � ك ب � م � و و � م و ة� � � و ر ة � � ة� ة ب � ش ة ة ب ب ة ج ب ة� ش ب � ب ة ���ا ب� ��ا �ب�� ����ة� �م�ا ب����ر��� �و��ب� �� ��رد ا ���ل ل�� �س��د �و��� �و� حة� ��ط �و�� ����� ���ل�� ���د ه ��ة� ��كب�ة���ك � م ة ب � د ب���ل��ا د ا ب�� �ة�م�����ك ��� ا ��ل���ل ��بم�ا ب�لة�� �� د ة�لب�ب� � � ة ب ب ة �ك�� ا ��ر�ة� �و�م�ا ���د ة� � ��ر �و�ل� ��م��ل�� ��������ل� �م �ل ة و � و �ة� م ش ب ة ّ �ة � � ب ��م�ع� ���� �م��ل ��ط�و�ل �م�ده ��م��ر�ة� �م����. ة � ب � � � ���� ب � ��� ��ا د �� ا ��ل�� بد �� ل ب��� ��ا �ة�ا ��� ب � ا ��ل�� ب� ةص �ع ب��ده ك� ح����ا د �و ��ة� ا �لب��ا ��� بص ة� �� ���ا ب� �ب�ا � ب����ط�ا ��ر ة� �� ح� ح� ة و �ل ب � ة م م � ش � � ب ة ب ا� � ا� � � ب � ة ����� �م ب ��ا �ل � �����ا ء � ا � �ل��د �مب��� �ك� ��ط � �مب ب � ب �ل���و �ل� � ك ���ا � �ة���� وو ���د �وه ك� ة ر ص � ب و �م ب و � ���م ��ل����ةص ج � ب ��ا ب ب �ب � ب ��ا ب ��� � �ة �ة ا �� ا ب �ب � ب � ا � � � ح� ل � � � � � � � ب ه ا ا �ل � � � � � � � � � � �� � � � � � � م � � � � ح� � � ع � ه � ط ك �� ك � �س م ر� �وك���ا � ة��� � �م رة �ل ة � و � ة ةرب و �و � � و �ع �ة� م م ب ب ب � م��ا � �� �م ب � � ب ب ��ا ب � ة � � ا� ب ب ا ��ا ب ب ب ا ���م ��ة� ��د�ة��د ���� � �وك�� � لة���و�ة� �ل�لك ا���ر���ة� �� ��ص �م � ك�� � ��و� �� � �ود ا ���ل � ك� و ة ص ب � � ب �ب ب�ب ب� ب ة ب� حب��ا ����� � �وب�ا ��ص ��ة� ���ا �ب���� � �وب�ا ��ص ��ة� � ��ا ب� �����م �و�م�ا ة� ش��سب��� د �ل��ك ���م �ة� ���د �و�ه�م �و م � م م � � ب �ب ب � ة � �� ة ب�ك �ص � �م ب ا �ل����ا � ���لة���ل�� ��ا ا ��ا �ب�ا ا �م�ا � �� ب� � ة � � ةو ����ك ��لب��ك ����ة� ���د ه ا �ل�� او د �م ا �ل�د ة� ب�ل����د �ب����م �ة� ����ل ة ب ة وم ص ة م � � ب ة � �� � �� � � � � ب ة ب ب ب � ا ا ا ا ا ا � ك� ��� م��ا �و�ة� ا �ل ب��ا � ا �����ة�ر �س ��ط� �� ا�م�� �� ب�� ب� ��� �ب� � �ة� �و�ل��د �ة� ����ل ا � او د � ا �ل�د �ة� � ار ه� � ��� ��� � ب � ب ة م م م �ع � ��ش ا ��ل��د � ���ة ا ��ل�� � ة ح����ا د ��ه � �و�ل�� ب��ة��ب ب�������� �ب�ا ��ل��ة بر�م ة� ��ا �ب� ا ��� �ل ع�ة��ا د �ة�� �م�ا ب�لة��ا ش�ر ��ب� ا ب� �� � ح� بة ة و �و ص وة ب ة� �م م م ب � � ب � ب ا �ب بة �ب �� � با ة ���� ب��ا ش ب � � � � � ب � ا ��ل � ا ب�كة��� ا ��ل �م���ل ���د ا ا �����ل�بج ا �ل�د ة� ب�لة���� ب��و حة �ص او �� � �و���د ا ا �ل�د ة� �اة�ل�� ه �ة� �م�دة�ل��� ا � ��هة �صو�م �وك ب ب ��ش ب بًا ب ��ش ة �� � � � �� ب � ط�� � �و�� �مص ���ره ا � ك� ا � ��ة���لة���ل� ٢مص ا � ك �را � ��ة��ا ��ة�. ل����ة�ر �� ل��ل� �م �و�لة��ل� ة � ب ب ا ا ��ل����ب�� � ب � ش ب� ب ة �� �ع ب ا �ب ا � � � ��ا �كب����د �م�ا �ود �ع�� ��رحة�� ل�� �و ا �ة� �م�دة�ل ب��� �س� � بو���ده �مة��� �ة� �رب � �ة� � او �لب��ا د ��ة� ب� � ب ة ة ب ا ب ب � ا� ا ش � ب ب� ب ��رل ب��ا ��ب� ا�ا�م���ا ��شص �و����ا �ب �ب�ا ا ��� ا ب� �و����ل ب��ا ا ��� ب� ح���ر �ة ��و�� �م� � او �ل�����ل�� �مص د �ل��ك ا�م��� ��ص ا �ة� ة ر ة ة �ب � � ب ة ا � �� ا �ب ب ا �ب � ب � ب ب ���ا ب� �� بم�� �ب�ا ا �ه� ب� �م ب � ل � � � ا � ط� بح���ر �و���� �ر� �� ب را �ل�ة���ل �وك� ��ة�ره ا �ل�د ة� �ه�و �ة� ب را �ل�ة���ل � ��ل ر و ص ة ع أ أ 1ال��ص�ل :ا ف�ص�ع��ف��ى ٢ .ال��ص�ل :ا �ل��ي��ي���ل. ي
98
98
٧٨،٤
٧٩،٤
٨٠،٤
Chapter Four
Lice teemed in the city like maggots.69 There were so many that they even scaled the walls, something I’ve never seen in any other country! They seemed to be a species of ant, and had completely infested the priest’s house. My description doesn’t do it justice—I had to change my shirt three or four times a day when we first arrived, and I’d still be covered with them. Soon enough, I couldn’t bear it any longer. “My lord, let’s get out of this place!” I said to my master one day. “The lice
4.78
are eating me alive! I’m on my last legs!” “Have you ever seen a single louse on me?” he asked. “That’s the strange thing,” I said. “They never touch you, but they’ve feasted on me.” “I’ll get rid of them for you,” he replied, opening his trunk. He took out something I couldn’t identify, wrapped it in a piece of linen, and tied it up with string. “Hang this around your neck, and put it under your shirt against the skin,” he said. “You won’t see any more lice.” I did as he told me, and not one louse came near me for the rest of the trip. The priest with whom we were staying claimed to be a healer of bodies,
4.79
but his real purpose was to treat the soul. Men, women, and children would seek him out—Copts and peasants too—and he would teach them the correct path to faith. He treated their illnesses in a strange manner. He’d build a fire in a stove and place some irons inside, and use them to cauterize the patient— some on their foreheads, some on their necks, others on their chests, thighs, and elsewhere. “Father, doesn’t your heart break for these people?” I asked him one day. “You torture them with hot irons and inflict such pain on them!” “My son, these people have the nature of wild animals,” he replied. “Ordinary medicines have no effect on their bodies, and provide no benefit. I’ve been compelled to treat them in this way, with the methods used on animals.” This is what I saw in Fayoum, of which I’ve related only a small portion, so as not to go on too long and bore my reader. We decided to return to Cairo. Saying our goodbyes to the governor and the priest, we boarded a riverboat and traveled to Joseph’s Dam. There we transferred to a second boat on the Nile side of dam. Now we were sailing
99
99
4.80
� � ا � ب������� ا � ا ��� ل ربع
� ة � � �ب � ب ة �� ا �� ��ة��د ��م�� ش�� ��م��ل ب��ا ا �ل����ا ب� ��ة� �ل�� ب� ����ة�ر�ب�ا �م� � �س���ل�� ا�ام�ا ء �و ��ة� ا ���ل �م�ا لة���و� �و����ل ب��ا ا �ة� �س� ة ب ر �م � ا ة ا� ب �ة � � ع ب� � ب ا � ح ب��ا �� ا ��ل � � �مب���ا ا �� ���� ة� ا � ��ةهب �واة ب� � � � � � ا �ل � ا ا ل � � ه � م�د � س د � � � �� �س� � �� � � م م � � � � � �� � و � و ر ة � � � � ة و ة� ر ة بة ة رة �ة� ةة ب ا � ب ًا � �ة ا ا � ش� ا �ب ب ا � ا� ا ش � ��ا �ب�ا ب ��ل�� ب � ش � ��� بر��� �ة� � ���� �ر� م� ةص � بو�����د �م�ا ا ��س����م ب��ا ��ة� �س� ��ر ة�� حة�� ل ب�� � ع ا�م��� ��ص ا ��ة� م م با ب ً ة � ب� ب �ة � �مة�ب���ة ��ش�سة��د �و�م بص ��ش�سة��د � ب� ���ا ا ���ة� �م�دة�ل ب��� ا �ل��� ك �س��ب��د ��ة�� �وب� �رل ب��ا ��ة� ب��ة�� ة� ا � ��هب�� ��ه�� ا �ة�� ��ر �ا ب ا ب � ب ا ةًا ب ا � ة �ة ب اب �ب��د ��� � ����ة ا ��ا � ��� ب �م�ا �ة� ا �� � �س���م ب��ا ��ة� ا � ك حة� ش� ل ب���� �� ��ل��ةص ���� �ب ���� �� �س�� �ة بر ة م ةص � ة ��� ��رك� ب� �م���� �ر � ة � � ا �ة� �م�دة�ل ب��� ��ط ار �ل��ل��ص ا ��ب��رب�. ب � ة �ب � ة ��� �ب �ب����ا � �� �ب�ا � ة ��ا ب ب ا � � ار ه � ب���ل ب� ح ب��د �ة� �م بص ب� �� ح ب�صود �م�دة�ل ب��� ا�ام�د ���و�ه �سم � �وك�� � ���د ا ا���رك ب ر و ة ا �ة � �م ب � ب �ة ا ��ش � � ب ب حة ا ب�لة��ل�� ���ا ��� ا � ة � ة � � �ب ة � � � � � �و �و��م�� ص ب ص �و�م� ص س� ��ر ة� �و��ة�ر �ب�� ة ع ���ة� ب�������لك �ة� �ل�لك ا �لب��ل�د �ة� ب � ش ا ��� ب � � ب � ب �ة ا� ح�ةم�� � � ب م �� �س �ة ب�ك��� �� � ��� ��� ��ا ��� �ش��م� �م�ة���ر � ح�ة� �ل�� �ة��د ب���ل�� �م�ا ء �ه�ب� ر مص ا �ر�� ا� � � � و و ة ة و و ب � ب ة � ب م ع ة� � ب بع ب� ب ا� �� ���� ا ب � ا ب ب ب �� ب ش ب � او���رك� ب� ب ة���م� ��ة� �ل���� � ا � ���رب��ة� ب��ة�������� ا �ع��ة� ��سة� �� ة ���� ���ة�ره �ب ���رد �ع�ب��ر � او ��ر�ة� �مص � � � ة ب � � �ب ا� ب � ����� ب ��ا ��� ب ب ���� بد ��ل��ك ا ب��ل � ح ب��د �ة� ا ���� �ب�ا ��ص �ا ب� � �و��ا � ةص �م بص ا ب�ل� ب ���دة�ص ��ط ارب�ل�ل��ص ا ����رب� ا�م�د ��و�ه �و�مص ة ا � �� ب اجا �� � � ب ب ب ة ة ب ب ا ا � ة � ة � � ل � ل� ��� �ر�م��� �م�� �ل�� � �م� � ب�� ����� �وك��ح� �� �مة��� �م���د ا � ا ������� � ��� �م� ���د ا ا � ب �م�ل � �ر��. ب ب ةص ر ةص بر ة ب ة م �م ع ب � � � ش � ب ة � ب� ب � ا ب��� ا �عب�� �م����ل�م ا �ب�� �����ا �ب �م� ة � � �بل ���� ��مب����� ا � ��هب�� ��ر � او �لب��ا ��ك���ا � ع �ل�لك ا �ل��سة� �� ة � ار د ا ��و ة� �ة� ة ر � ��� ش � � ������ ك� م��ا ب د ��ة � ا � ك� � ��ة� ���� ��ل�� ��ا ب ��� ش��س ������� ب ب��� ه � ا � ك����� ك� ����� � ب � ا�ا ك� ����ل��� � ا برب�ره ب �و � �م ب � �ل ة � ة ر و ر ةب ة رة ص و � ة�� و ر ةب �م � ب ة ً� ب ب���ةهة ة ب �ب ة � ���م ���و�ة� ���هب��� �ر ب���ل�مة���ل�ك ��ا ب��ا �ب����م �م����ل��م� ��ا �ة�ل� �ب�ا � ����ل ا �ة�ا �م ا �ة�ا �م ��و� � او � ���ر���ا � �و� � ة � � ب ب ة ب ب ط��� ة � ب ا �با ب ب � � او د ا ����ا � ة� �م� ���� �ش�س� ������ � ��ش ب � ا �ل� ر ع ل ة ة حب���� ����ل �م����ل�م��ةص �م� ��لة��� �ر� �مص ك���ة�رة�ص �ة� ب ر � � �ش �� � ب��ة ش ة ب �ة � �ةر���ا ب� ا �ل��بل ك� ���د � ا ���ل�ة� بر � �وة�ا ب�لة��ا ����ل �سة�� م����� �ر�� ب� �م بص ا �لب��ر �م�ا ا � ��� ةر ���ا �م بص ا � ���ر���ا �. ة ة ة ة �ب ة � � ب �ك�� � ش���ش�ا. حة��ً�د ��ا ��� او �ل�� ا ������ل �م
100
100
٨١،٤
٨٢،٤
Chapter Four
down the Nile—an easier ride than the first journey, as we were traveling with the current. In no time at all we arrived in Old Cairo, loaded up our things on donkeys, and went off to the consul’s house in the Mouski quarter, where we’d previously stayed. A few days later, we traveled by boat to the port of Rosetta, and from there back to Alexandria, where we lodged at the consul’s house again. We remained there a few days until a ship bound for Tripoli of the West was ready to sail.70 It was a French ship. A soldier from Tripoli had hired it and loaded it up
4.81
with coffee, Egyptian fabrics, and other commodities much in demand in the Maghreb. When the hold was packed to the gunwales with goods, the soldier sealed over the entrance with wax to keep the water out. In the Frankish tongue, this sort of vessel was known as a pinco, a small coastal boat with a single hold. The soldier rented out space inside to people returning from the hajj, heading for Tripoli. Among them were two Maghrebi women and their husbands. There were forty of us, not including the sailors. My master had decided we would travel with the ship. The consul and the foreign merchants, however, declared this to be out of the question. “It’s a small ship, there are many passengers, and space is tight,” they said. “The other passengers are all from Barbary, and a man like you wouldn’t be able to abide their company.” “This is a time of war, and there are many pirates on the seas,” my master replied.71 “If we travel with this ship, in the company of Muslims, we’ll have no reason to fear any English pirates. Plus, this kind of ship sails close to the coast, so the pirates won’t spy it.” “Do as you wish,” they said.
101
101
4.82
ا �� ب �ب ��ح�� ا ��ل � � � �ح�ا �م �� � ل س ب ة �� �
�� بم��حج �ب�ا �
� ا �ة�
� ا� ب ا ب �ب�ل� د ا�م��ح� ��ب�� ��ة�
بة ��� ح��� 1708
� � ب ب� ب � ب ب� ب ��ل ب ا �ب �ةل�� � ا ��ل ش��س� ��� ة ���دة� بص �م�دة�ل ب���ة ��ط ار �ل��ل�� ا ��ب��رب� �وك� ���� ��ا � ���ا � د �ل��ك ��ة� �ش�س�ه� �ش�سب��ا ��ط �ح� ر �� �ة� لك ة ة ب ص � � �ب ب ا �ب ا ��ل� � ة ة � �ا ب ب � � �ب ��ب���ا ��� ا ��ب �� ��ة��� � ط�� � ل�� ح��� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل��� او د � ا �لب��را �بره ا ��� ا � �و����ل ب��ا ا ��� � ك� �ر� � � م�� � ك��� �ر� �ة� ب ب ة ب ة ص ة ة م ب اً � ب ��� ا � ب ب ���� �م�ا �لة��� ب � اةب �س��د �ه ا �عب�� ا �بل� �رد ا ب���ل ��ة� ا ��لب��ر � �� ��و�ره د � ��� ةص �مة���ل ا �ة�� ة �م� � ح� �م�ة�ل���ةص �مة���ل �و�عر� ة ة � ة م � ب ب ة ب ب � �ب ا ة ب ا ة � ب � ب �ة �و���د ا ة����م�ا دة�ل��ل ��ة� �ل����ا � ا �ل��رك �و�ل�� ب���ل ا � ا �ل ش����ا �ة��ة��� �م�ا بة�� ك ��� � ���� ��� ا �لب��ر د ���ل� ��ة� �م�� � ب � ���د ا ا �ل��دة�ل��ل. � �ة ا � ب ��ل��� � �م ب ب� � � ب ب ا �عة�� ب �� ب �ب ا � ا ا ��ل� ب ب �و� �ة� ة ل� ص د � ��م� �و�ل ب��ا ك���ا � �س���ة� �م بص ا �ل��لة���ل ���� �ةص �ةص � ��و ب � �رة�� ��� �� � ب � � ��� ة� ا �ب�ا ا � ب�� �ة � �وب�� ��ب� ا ��ل�� ب�ر �مة�ة ��ة� ب � ب ��ل��لب ب� ���ط�ا �ه � ع او �ة��د �ه� �و ��ب� بد ��ل��ك ا � ��و�كة ة� ك� � ح �� س� � ���ة�ر رةص ب م ة ط�� ب ا� ب �� �ب ا ب ا � � �ش� ل� ب� � � ب ا ��ل� � ش �� �� � ��ا ب ب�� ا �� ��ةه� ���ط�ا ب� ب��ة ش م����ا ��� �� حص ا���رك� ب� �م� �اة�ل�� � او �ل� ��ة� بة�ربج مص ب�ر م���ل ا ��ة � �صو� وة � ة� ب ة ب � � ب � ب � ب � � �بك��م�ة� ���ط �مب ���د ��ا ��� �ع ب��ا ا �ب�ا � او �لة��ا � ب��� � او �بل� م��س��ا �مب�� ك� ��� ��� ا�ا��رك� ب� ك� � �ر�� �� ل ب� ���ا � ���ا � � او � � ر ة ة � � �م م م � ة م � � ب � ب ب ا � �� � ا ��ب � ب ا �م ب ب ه ا ��ب ��� �لة��� ا ��ب �ص �كة�� ���ا ��� �م �ش ح�� �ع��ا ��� ب ل ه � � � � � � ا ه ب � �ل � � ا� � � � � ح ���د � � � � � � � ��د � ا �ل�� � � � � � م � � ك ةرب و �ة� ص ة ب ل ة و� ب ب ص و � رة م � � � � ش � � �ب با ة ة � ا ب �� ب ��ا ب ب ا �� ب � ا ���� 1 �� �� ا �رة���ص � او � ��هب� ��ط� � �وك���ل �مص ك�� � ��ة� ا���رك� ب� ��ل�م� ا �رة���ص ا �ل�د �ة� �ه�و �م�د �بر ا �ل��سة� �� ة ب ��ا � ب ة ب � ا ب ب � ب � ة ��ا ��ل ا �� ا ��بل� ���د ا ا �ل���م��ك �ب���ب ا ��ل ���ا ب� � ب���ل ا ب� �وك� � �ر�� حة�ة��ا � �و��دة�� ��ة� ك�� � ا �ل �صو�لة��� ��ل�م� ��� ��ر ا �ة� ة� ر ة م �� � � � ة � ب �ب �ة ب �ة ش ل�� �ب�ا �ب���� �ةل�� بل� �� او �ة��ل� ا � ك �ب��ة�ر �ةو�لب ��ة �� او �����ب� ���ل� ا � بر��ة�ر ا �ل��د �ة� ة����م�ا ا �ل��ربل ك ح��ا �ل ��ة�� �وة�����د � او ا ل ب ع � م ب ع � ا ة ��� ��ب� ا ��بل� ��� ا �� ��ة��ل�� �و�م�ا ة� ش��سب��� بد ��ل��ك �م بص ة� �ةر���� ا�ا�� ار ك� �ر. ا�م����ل���� �كة� ةب ب ة م � ش ب� ا ة ب � � ب � ة ة ��ا ب ���د ا ا�ا�مب�ب ا ��ر �و�م�ا ��ب� ����� ب�ل �صو ب� � ��ل�م� �ا ��ة� ح ب� ����ل �ر��ص �ل�� ا � ��و�ك� ك�� � ��� ��ة� ة ب ة ة ة � �ب � ب� � ب � او ��بل�� ���ا د �� � او ����ه� �� �م�ه ب��ا ������ �ك ب��ه � حب� ة� �و����ا �ل ة� د �ل��ك ا �لة��ا � ب��ة� �ع بص ا �ل���ب�� ب� ا �ل��د �ة� ر ة ةب وة 1ال�أ�ص� :ا � ش ل��م��طي���ه. ل
102
102
١،٥
٢،٥
٣،٥
Chapter Five
Our Travels to the Maghreb in the Year 170872
We boarded the ship headed for Tripoli. It was the month of February, and
5.1
we sailed in painfully cramped conditions in the company of those Barbary natives. Eventually, we arrived at a place called the Gulf of Sidra, where the sea extends inland, forming a gulf about two hundred miles in both length and width.73 This is called a dīl in Turkish. Because our boat couldn’t stray from the coastline, it entered the gulf. On our second night in the gulf, two hours after sundown, half of the sailors
5.2
went to sleep. The other half stayed awake to stand watch, as was their custom. I was strolling along the deck of the ship with the captain’s first mate when, lo and behold, we saw what looked like birds flying out of the sea! Some of them landed in the ship, and I dashed over with the first mate and some sailors to pick up a few. They were fish with wings like birds! We were amazed by this strange creature, and our shouts woke up the rayyis, the captain, and everyone else on the ship. The rayyis was the overseer of the ship, an old man who’d been a sailor for many years. When he saw the fish, he immediately ordered the sailors to haul in the large sail and to keep the small one (which was called the trinket) at half-mast. He also ordered them to tighten the lines attached to the sails, and to carry out all manner of other procedures that take place on ships at sea. I was surprised to see all this activity, because there didn’t seem to be any reason to take such precautions. The weather was serene, the sea was calm, and we were sailing with a good wind. I asked the first mate why they’d brought
103
103
5.3
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
� � ا� � �� ط ا � �ا � ة ب �ةا ة ��ل�� ب���ل�� �� ب�� �� او ا �� ��ة���ل�و �و�ش���د � او ا ��ل م�� � ب�ص او ��ب�ا ���ط ا�ا�� ار ��� � � ك � � � � � � ح� � ل و� و � ب و بر� ��ط �م���ةص ا � ���� �ة��� ب ب ة ب ��� ش �� ب � ب �� � �ب ا ��ل� ا � �ب ا ا � ب ب � � ا �� ا ب � ا ب � � ا � ا � � ل � � ل � � � � � د د م � �� � � � � � � �� ب� و ب ر � ة� ب ب �ة� ل�ك ة� � ب �ة� ب � ا �ل�د �ة� �ه�و د ا ���ل ا ل��سة� ة ع � �صو ة � �ة �ه ب � � � ب ة � ب ب ب �ره ��ة� ك���ا � ا �ل ب�صوة�لة��� � بو�لة���ر�� � �� او ��ة ب� ا �بل��ر �كب�ة�� ��و�ل �ب�ا � ����ل���م��ك ����ل � ب���ل ا �رة���ص �ه�و �دة��م ب ب� � � � ب � ب ة ب ب� � � ب ب � ��ش ة ة ب � � ب�لة��د �ل ���� � �ر �� �و�� �ع �ة��م�� �ل� � �م بص �ع ��� ط � ة��ب���ا � ا �بل��ر �و ���ره ا �� ����ا ا �ل���� اوجب � ا �ة� ا ������ل�و �كب� ��ط�ة�ر ة ب � �� م ب �� ب ة ����ل ���م��ك �م بص �ع بر� ا � � ةط�بم � � بو�لة� حة�ب��ا ��ط ا �ل���� اوجب � �و���د ا �ه�و ا �ل���ب�� ب� ���ل�م�ا ���م�ع� �م ب��� ���ل� م �� � ����ة ب� ب ة �ب ة � ا ب �جة �ب ب � � �� ة� � �ة�د ة� ��ب ا �� ��ة��ا ��ة � ة � � � � � ك��ل� � ا � � حعة�� �ة� ع���ل ا �ر���ص �و�م� ا ��د � �ة� ك�ل� �م� � او �ل� ك �ة و� ة� ة�� ة م ب ب ب � ب �ب �ب ب � � �� �ة ة �ب ة ب ب � ة م�د �� � � ة � ا ا ا � ب � � �و� �و���د ا ك�� � � ك� �ع� ا�ا � م�� � �م�� م��ة� ا �ة� ���ةص ������ ا �ل�لة���ل �و �ة� د �ل�ك ا ��وك� ا ���ب � � �� �� � ب �ب ا ��ة ة� ا ��بل� �����ا ا �لب��� ب��ص � بو���� ب��ص ���و ب��ا ة� ةل ك � ة� ار ���م ة� ����� ب���� ب� �ر ���اة ب� � او �ل���� اوجب �����ر د ا ���ل ر �ة � ا � ة ا� ج ا� � � ب ة ب ب ة � ش ش ا ب � ط � ب � � ���� ح�� ������� ا�مة�� ه د ا ���ل � ���� � �� حص ا �ل��سة� �� ا �ل��سة� �� ح� ������ د �ا �و�م� �� د � ا��� ار �ة�ة�� ب� ة ة ة ة� ة �� ب ا � � � ا ا ��م ا � �ب م�� ا �ة ��ا ب� ا ب� ا�ا�م�ا ل �ل���ل � ����ا � �وك� ا � � � ����ل�م�ا ��ل�� � � � ا � � � ا ا � ك ا ء � ل � � � � � � � � � � � � � م � � ص م � � � � � ب � � و � و � ب ب ة ب ر و ب ب ب ةص ر � ة ة ج ج � ��ب ة ةة � � � � �� ��ا ب � ا �� �� ش ا � بم �جة� �ب ا ��ل ش �� � � ا ب ل � � � � � � ا � � ا �ل ش����� � ب � � ا ا ا ا � � ا ء ع ا ��س ك � ل � � � ل ح � �� � � � � � � � � � � م � � � ك ��� � � و � ر �ل �وبج ة و ب ب ل و رع ة ة ة� ةرة��د ص ة � ا ب ً ة � � ة ا �� �ب �ا ب �ب �� � ا� � � ب ا � ة�ة � �� � � ل ل � � ا � � � � � � � � ح�� ل� ا م � ا ا ا ا � ك � ا � م� م د � � � � � � � � �� � � � � � � � . � � ه � ��ط ة� � ب ر و �ل و �� �لو � ة ر � ب � رب ط و �و �ة� ك �ة� ب ً � �ب � �ب ح��ا ��ل ا�ا��� ا ����� ب�� ب ا � � ب � ا � � � � ة � ة �ب ا �ل� ا �و �ة� ا ���ص� او ��ة� ا �و �ة� � ب �و�� �لة��ل� �عر�م ا � �رة�ج � او �ل���� اوبج �ل�ل�هة��� �ة� ب�ر ر ة � � � � ب � � �ش ة � � � �ة �ة� � او ��ب�هة �صو� ا�امة� ك� ��ا � ��ب���. �و�ا د ���لة�ب��ا ا �لب��ل� بل����ره ا �ل��س ��ط�ا � � او �ر�ع�ود � او ���ص� او �� م ب � ب ب �ب ا ��س�ة ب ا �ب ب � � ��ل ا � ا �� ب� � � � �ب ة ب ةص �و� � ��ر�ل�� �� د �ل�ك ا �� �ل �و ل� ك� ��ا �ل �ة ��و�م��ةص �و�لة���لة��� ح بص �م ش���ر��ة� بص ���� ا ���� ��� ب� � او ����ر�� ة ة ة � ّٰ ة ا � ا ب ل�ب ب � � � ب ا ب �� ب �ة � � � � با ب � ب ب ش � ا ة � � � � � � � ا � ��ر ا �ة� ا لل� ���� �ة� �ب� �� ة بحة��� مص ��ر� � او �����ل� ك �م بص ��ة�ر ا ك����ل �و�ل� ���رب� �و�ل� م�� �م ا �م� �ل�� � �� ��ل� �ب ب ب � ب ش ة �� � �ش ا �� ش � � ا �ل ب ا ا ب� �د � � ب��ل ب ��� �م ب ا ���ب � � ���ا ل � ا ا � � � � � ا � ا ه � � ��س � � ل ص � � � ب ب � � رو � و� ل� ة ��وم �ة �� �� � �� ��ود � ة�ط ص ة وم ة� ر و ة� رو ب� � ب ب � ب ا � �ب ا ��ل���� ا � � ب � ش � ةب � ع �� �ل ا � ة ا ا �ل� �و��س ��ط�� ����ره ة�م�� �و���د ا �ه�و �� ب� ا �ل�د ة� �ب�ة�����رب� �مص �م� ء ا �ل����ه� ا ب�� ��ة�� �ة� ��� ب�ر ا ب ً ب حة �ب�ب ���د �ة� � ��ر�ب�ا ����ا �ب ��ة��ا �ع ب��� �و�م� ك� �ك�� د �� ��� ة� ا �� �ةر�� ب���ةعمب��. � � � �م � ً ة ة � ب � � � � ب � ة �� ب� ا ب ب �� ه ا � ��� � ا � ��ةه� ���ط�ا ب ب��ا �ة�ا �ع� ا � ب��ا �ب�� ا ب�� ب ا � � ا ا ب ة ��� ا د ا ��م�� ��ط ا�ا��رك� ب� �و�� ع�ة�م� �م��ر�ك � ��ل�م� ��� ر رة ص و ب � � و و و م ة ب ب ة � � � ا � � � ب �ب ة ب ا ا ��ل��� ا � ��ل � � � �� ك� ب � �� ��ب� ����ل ���� ه ب�لة��� �� �ل� م � �� �ل�� �ل� � �ة� ا �� ���� ���ا � � او�ا��رك� ب� �� ب� ا �ة� ا ب�� �صة� ا �بل�ر �مك� �و ب�لة� �� ب � ر ر ة � � ا �ب ��بل � � � ا � ب � �ب � � ة ب ة ب ب ب ة ب ا ا ا ���و ب� د ا ���ل�� ب�لة��� ��ط ��� �� ا �بل� � �و�م� ب����ب���� �ل�� � ب�� �� ا � �و ب ا �ل� �ب� ���� ��� . �ل � � � � حة��ً�د � د ل ا ة� بة ر ة ر ة � ر ة ج اب ة � � � ة � ب �ة � ا ب � � ا ب ��د � � ���ط��ل� ة ب��م�� � ة ب ا ��ر ا � ��هب� ��ط� � ا �ة� ا �لة�� � ب��ة� �ب� ��� �ة�� ��و�ل ��ط�لب��� ا ��� � ة� و ب � ة د������ةص � او ة���س� او ع ا � ���� ة � �ب � �ةا � ب ب ب � ب � ا� ب ا ���ا �ب�� او ا �بل�� �ر�� �ة��ة ��و��� او ����ل ���ط��لب��ا ة� �ب�اةل � �م بص ا �لب���ا ه �و�ا�م�ا ك� ���د �ع��د ا �و�لة���ك ا�م��� ��ب�� ا � ���� ������ةص ��ة� ة
104
104
٤،٥
٥،٥
Chapter Five
down the sails, pulled the ropes tight, and secured all of the fastenings on the anchors. They’d even lashed down the rowboat inside the ship, though the weather was pleasant and the sea was peaceful. “The rayyis has been a sailor for a long time,” the first mate replied. “He knows all about the sea and its fickle ways, and he says these fish are a sign of a big storm. Apparently, when the sea becomes agitated and the waves get bigger and more turbulent, the fish start flying.” When I heard this, I thought the rayyis was being foolish. Paying no heed to the mate’s words, I lay down to sleep in the rowboat. There I remained until midnight, when I woke to find the sea rolling and the waves rising higher and higher. There were waves breaking over the ship, and the water on deck was half an arm deep! The drains couldn’t keep up, so the sailors had to bail using pails. They kept this up until morning, but the situation worsened, the waves swelling like towering mountains and raising the ship up on the crests, then sending it plummeting toward the ocean floor! Every man clung to his spot—some at the ropes, some at the masts, some by the anchor chains—each afraid that the might of the wind and the waves would throw him into the sea. The thunder, lightning, heavy clouds, and heavy rains only added to our despair! We endured that punishing ordeal for two days and two nights, with no
5.4
food, drink, or sleep. We were on the verge of being capsized and sunk, and we begged God Most High to save us from drowning. On the third day, we saw a great column descending from the clouds to the sea. As it descended, the sea split open and a great chasm formed within. As I recounted earlier, this was the sort of cloud that soaks up water from the rivers flowing along the ocean floor. I didn’t believe such a thing could be until I saw it with my own eyes.74 When the rayyis and the captain spotted the cloud, they were terrified. If the ship fell into the chasm, they knew it would certainly sink, because the sea would close in again when the cloud rose back up to the sky. Any ship trapped inside would be pulled down to the seabed, with no possibility of escape. The captain ordered the first mate to pray to the Virgin Mary and to all the saints, for they’d lost hope of being saved. As the sailors fell to praying, the
105
105
5.5
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
ب � �� ا ��ل ش �� � ا ب ب� �ة ة � ��� � ا ب ��ل ا� ا �� �ب�� ط�ب� � ��مة�� ب�لة�����ل� او �ب����ا �� او �ة�ة��ب��ا �� � �عب �� ح�بم ط� ���م �رب� �م� �ا � او ا بل�رة و ��� �ب� � عر � ��سة�� ة و ة ع ج م ����ل�� ����� ا ��لب��� ب�� �وك�� ���ل �مب � � �ة �� �� ب�ك �ة � � � ا �م ب � � ا �ب � ا ب ا ب � �ةو�لة�صود �ع� او �م بص ب���� ب� ص ���م ة� ��ول ر ة��� وة� �� ب� � د ��ل��ص ة �م ���ة� م � � �� ا �و�ل�ده � او �عة��ا �ل�� � او ���ا �لة���. � ا �ب�ا ا �� ب�� �ة ��ب� ة� ا ا ا�ا�م� ة� ا �ع��ا �ب�ا � ب�ع� ة� �ع ب �ش���د �� ��ل�� ��ب ا �� ة� ا ��بل� �� ب ��م� و � �رة�� ك���ل �م � ص � ة ة� � ة ���ة�ر ك� � و ة وب � �� � �ب � ا ش � ب � � �م����ة�� ب � ب ��ل�� ب� �ة �ب ب �� � ب � ك� م��س���ل�� � �م�� � �م ��� �م����ك ��و د � �و م� ة���سب�� د �ل�ك ح� ��رةص ل�ر� �و �ة� د �ل�ك ج بر ة ر و � م ب �� ة ا � ب� ��� ة ة �� ب ب ب � � ة � �ة ة ب ا � ةة � �ب � ة ا ة � � ب � ا ���وك� � او �� م��� �رب� ��ط �ة� ا � ���� �ة��� ا �ل�د �ة� ك�� ب�� �ل��ص كة��� م�ع� �ص�و� ������ل ���ة ر ب�ة��ب����� � � � �ب�ا �ب��د����ل ة� �م ب بد ��ل��ك � او �ة��ةعب� ة� ��ا ب� بد ��ل��ك ا �������ب��� ب�رب� �م ب ا ��بل� �را �و ��م�ة� ��ط �م بص ا ��ب�هة �صو� � بو�����ده ب ل ج ص ص م ب ا ب� ة ة � ب ب � � � ا ة �� ب � ب �ب ب ة ش � ة � ا ا ب ة ب � � � ��س�� � ا �ة� ا � ���ص �ة� �س�� � � ��هة���ل �و�م� ��ع� مص د �ل�ك ا �ل ب �عب�� �عص �ص� اوب�ة� ك�� �ة� �ة� � ب ب ة ا� � � ة �وا �عب�� ا �� ��و��ل��د ا ��ل�� بد �ة� �ه�و ب��ا د � ا ��بل� مو ب� د ا �ة� � �صو� ا� � �ر�� ب�لة��ة ��و�ل � �وب�ة�� ش����ة�ر �ب�ا �ب�� �ا ء ا �لب��ر� .و�كة�ة�ً�د � � � ة م ة � ب ًا �ب ا �ة � ا� ا � ب ب ا �ب � ب �� ا� ب � � ا ا � � � � � � ا ب���ةع ة� �و �و� � � ا ا ا � � � �م � ع ��� � ��و ب ة� �م�� �ب� رك� ب� و��� � ��د � ر ع��ة�� ع� ة� ���� �� ة� و ة�� ة ج ة � ع � م � ��ا ب ���د � ��� ب � ا�ا ب م�� � �ب�ا ب� ا �� ��ةهب� ���ط�ا ب� �ا�م�ا �ا ء ا �ل���� ��ا ب� � �وةل��ل�ك ا �لة�ب��ره �م بص ����ل ب�ب��ر �وك�� � � � � � و� ل ب ر رج � � ب � � ب � ب ة ب � �� � او ��� �م بص ا ��لبب� ���د ا �لب��ر �وة��ا �ل ��ة� �ب�ا �ل�� د ��ا ه ا ��را�ام�ا �����ك د �ك ة� ا�ا��رك� ب� �ب�ا � �ة��د�ةر ا �ل��د ��� � �وة���� ةص � � � � � ب � ب ب ة � ب ب ة ش � ���� ������س� ��� ا �لب��ر �و�ل� ���� �� د ا ��� ا بل� ا �ل ش��سة� � � �ر. ة ل ر ب ة ب ّٰ ��ا ب ب � � � حة ب ب ���ل�� �م ب ا ���ب�� ��ة ا ��ل�� بد �� ل ب��� ��ا ��ا ����ل�� ب ب�ك��� �ب��ل�م�ا ا � � � ا � ةص ة ص ص رة�� ة �وك�� � د �ل�ك ا ����� م مص لل �ة� � ةة � ا ��ل ش �� � �ة � ة � ب �ة � ب ب � �ب ��س����� �� ح��� ���� ا �لب��ر ���ا � ا � ��هب� ��ط�ا � � 1ةر�����ل د �ل��ك ا �����ل�� �م ا ��ة� ��م�� ا �����ا ��ة� �وة� ش���ر�� ة� ة وب � ة � � ��ا ب �ة ة ب ا ��ل��ش � ة � �ا � � ب �ل ا ة ا �ل ش � � � ���� ا ��� ����ا ���ل ا �لب��ر بل ك� � ����ة� ا �لب� ر �� �م� �رب��� ��سة�� ة ة �� �م مة���ل �وك� � �وك� عر�و ب� م��ص �ب ب ا��ا ب ب � ب � � ب ب � �ب ��ل ا � ش � ة � ا ب ��� ��ل� � او ب�ر���د �ة� �عص �م� ك�� � � ار ء ا �����ل� �م ا �لب��ر �و�ر�ل �ة� ا�� �ل �ة�ب�����را � ��هب� ��ط� � � او �رك�ة�ب��� �و �ة� ����ل ٰ ا � ب ب ا �ب � ب � ��ع ة� ا � � او � ب ح��� ب ب� ش����ا �ه � ب� � �بر�ا ا ّلل� �ة����ا ��� ��� �م�ا ا � ح��ا ا ��لة�ب��ا �و��� � ع��د �� ر � �� ع ���ة�� �و�ش�س � ص ة� ج م با � � ب ا �ب ا ة �ة ب ا ب ب ا �ة ب ا بًا ا� �� �ب ا ��ل� ا �لة��� �م� ا ��س���م�� ������ ���� ��� ح�ة� �اة�ل�� ا �لب��ر �عة�� �� � بو�����د �ع�ةس���� ���� او ا��� ار ��ة� �ة� ب�ر �ب � �� �ب ب ا � ب ب ب � � ة ة � �ص او ا �رك� ������ �م بص � ك� م��ا �ب���� ب�ل��ل ا�ام�و��ة� �م بص �كب �صو��ه� �وك��� ة� ة� ار �ه� �و���د �ة� ا�ا��رك� ب� كة��� .حة��ً�د ����� � ة ب م م م� � �� ط ا ��لب � ا ب � � ب �ب �ب � � � م ل ���ا �ب��� ب��ا ��� ب ا ش � � � � � � ا � � � ك �ل � ل � � � � � ح � � � � � � ��� � � ةص �م بص ��� ار ب� ا �و �م بص ب�ل�� و �ل ة ب � � ك� � م � ب ب ب ��ص و � ة � �ل � �ة� م � ة ا ة � � ب �ةل�� � ا ��لش �� �ش �ة ا � ا � � ب ة لك ��ل � ة� ك ��ةس���� ��ة� ��� ار �ة�ول��ل��� �و��س���ا �ب���� �و���ا � ة� ��ا �لة�� ���ا � �� او �ة��� ب� � �ص او �� ب��� ا ����ب م � �م � م م ً � ب � � ة ا �لب ب ا �ب ب ب ة ب ا ا ش ش � � � ��� �. ��و�� � � م��ر�و���� .ا ��ة را ا �������ل� او �و��ة ر� او �لة�� �ب���� �و�لب����س� او �لة�� �ب���� �� م م أ 1ال��ص�ل :ا �ل��ي�� ف�م��ط�ا.
106
106
٦،٥
٧،٥
Chapter Five
Maghrebis on the ship, now certain that they would soon drown, began to wail and bid each other farewell, promising to pass on their goodbyes to each other’s children and families if they were saved. Seeing the sailors take hold of barrels, planks, and so on, waiting for the
5.6
ship to sink, I stared death in the eye and lost my senses. As I clung to the rowboat where I sat, I heard a small child crying out. I was bewildered to hear such a sound, and felt sure the child had emerged from the sea or fallen from the clouds. That’s when I fainted, tumbling into what seemed like a deep slumber. Suddenly, I was roused again by the child’s voice ringing in my ears. It was the ship’s cabin boy, calling out and waving that he could see land! At that point I came to my senses, and all the Maghrebi passengers did too. Overjoyed, we learned that after the captain saw the cloud and the chasm, he had lost hope of being saved and ordered the helmsman to turn the wheel and make for land. “Better we wreck on land than sink at sea,” he’d told himself. That was an inspiration from God, and it saved us from sinking. When the ship turned landward, the captain sent the cabin boy to the top of the mast to keep a lookout. When the ship was a few miles off the coast, the sun began to set and the sea had subsided a bit. And the cabin boy spotted land! He came down immediately to tell the captain and passengers. With this good news, we were ourselves again and were overcome with happiness. We thanked God Almighty for the grace He’d bestowed on us! In less than half an hour, we saw land with our own eyes, and after a short time, the anchors were lowered and the ship moored. The passengers rose from their places like the dead from their graves. They looked like they’d emerged from a hole in the ground or a cesspit, their clothes soiled with filth. Over the course of those three days, they’d answered the call of nature in their own pants and shirts, making them filthy and miserable. They washed themselves and changed into clean clothes.
107
107
5.7
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
� ب ب ب � ���ا ب �سب � � ا ����� ��� ش ��د ا ا�ا�م�ة��د ا �� ح�ة �م�ا ���د �ب�ا �ب ��ة��د �ب�لة� ك� ��ب��ا ا ب��ل � �و ��� د ��ل��ك ا � ��و�كة ة� ك� ���ص � �ل��� �م� � � � � و � ب و � ة ة � م ع � ب ب ا � � ب ب � � �ع� ب ا �ة ب �ً �ب ���د �م ب�ا � ��ب ��ة ش �� ب � ا �ة�� �ب��ل�م�ا ا � ة ب � � ا � � �س����ة��د �وا ا ا ا � � ك � ب���� � ة� ��ص �ة� �و ���� �ل� � ��ل� ة�م�� ة�ب������ �� .ة ر ���� � �ل و �ة �� ش � �م� � ب ��ل ���ا ب� �م� � ة ش ة ش ب ا ا ��ل� ب�� او د �ه� �ب ار � او ا �لب ���� ط�م�ا ة� ا ��ل�� بد �ة� ك� ع ا �ر� � او ����م بص �وك���ل ����ة� ���م ��������ص �مص �م� ب ر �� م ب � ا �� ا � �ة �� �م ب � ا ة � ا ء ا ��ل� ب ا � ة �س�ة��م ب��ا ا ��� ا �������ا � ��ب � � ا ة ل � � � � � � � ك �� ه � � د � � � � � � � � � م م � � � � � � ب ج ب ةر ة ل ص ر� �ل�ل� ك���ل د ��ل�� �م� ا ب ر و ة� ب ر ا ك�� � � ���ل �و�ل� ش���رب�. � ط�� ب ا� �� �ش�� � � ب ب حة � �ب ا �ل ب��ا ��� ���� ه ا ��بل�� ��� ��ب ا ��بل�� � � ا� ���ا ب� ��ب�� � � � � � � � � ا � � � � ك ك ا ح � د �� 1 � ل ك م ���ل�م�ا ا �ب��م � � � � � ل ب ة ة ص ر ب و رة ة ر ة� ر ة ة ج ا� �� ب �� �� ب ب ا� � �� � ا �م ا ا� ا ءج ا �ة �� ا�ا� � ده �ب ا ��ل ش��س� ��� � � ل � ا � � � ا � � م ا ط � � ك ك � ه � � ح � �� بر ة���ل �م� �و�و ب�� � � � م م � � � � � � � � ���� �ل� ب��ل� ب ب و ب و ل � ة ر ر ب و و ة� ة ة � ب ا ��لة�� � � ة � ا ب ج ب ب ا ب ًا � � ب � ��ا ب ب ا ب ب� �� � �� �م��ة�� ش�����ة ا ��بل� � �ر�� � او � ��هب� ��ط� � �و� ح�� ا �ة�� ��� ا �ل�د ة� ك�� � �م�ه�� �مص ا �ر� او د .حة��ً�د ب � �وا ا �رك�ة�ب�� ا �ة� ة �� ا �� �ة � ا ب ا ب �� �� � ب ب �� �ب� ب ا �� �ة �� ا ب �ا ب ��ة �ع ب�ده �ش�� �� � � ب � � � � � � ا ا � ����ل� ك ل � م ل � ده ه � ح � � � � � � � � � � � �� ك � � � لل � �ط � � و �هب� ��ط� � �ب� � ة ة� �م ص �و � ب �ة� ة� لب ص ب � � ة� � مة ةع ة � ط�م�ا ة� د ا ب���ل�� �م�ة��د ا � ا ���� ا �و ��م�� ا � ��ط�ا �ل �م بص ا �لب ���� ��ة���� �ب ���� م��ا ب� �م ب��ا �مة��� � �م بص � ك� ط�م�ا ة� ص ب ص ع �� ب � ب �� ب ب �ل� ب���ل �� ��ط�و�ه � �و����� �بر�مة���ل �م�ا ء ���ا ��ة� �ل� ب���ل �م ش���ر� �وب��. �ة ة �ش � � � ب ��ا ب ب ب �ب ب���ل�م�ا �ش���ا ���د بد ��ل��ك ا ب��ل ��ة���� ا �لب���� ���� � ط�م�ا ة� � �و����� ح��د �ة� ا �ل�د �ة� ك�� � ا �و�� �س� ا �ل��سة� �� ة ص ���د �م ب ب��دا � � � ا ب � ة�� � �ب � � � �ة �ب �بر�م��� ا�ا�م�ا ء ب ��� ة ة ة � � ةة �س��� وة� �� ��س���م ���وه � او �ل� �ك��د ا � � او ��ر � او � ص � م� ب� � ة��س �ل ة ةل ب ً ً � � � � ب ل�� � ا � �د �م بّ ا � �ب � ة ب � ���د �ا �لة��ل� ة� ش��� �ر ��وه �ب��د ������ � او � ���دا �بر�مة���ل ا�ام�ا ء � � ���د ه .ا ��ة�را ا �ع ��ط�� � ك��ل و �� �� ����ص٢ ب ة � � ��ة�ط ا ة ة ة � � � ة ���ا �� ب� ب���ر �م ب ا�ا�م�ا ء � ح�ة� ة�لب���ل ���ل�ة��� �ب��ل�م�ا �ا � او ����ل �س��ة��ب��� ا �رك� ���ا ب� ب ��م� � ���وه �ل� ة�م�و� �وك� ص ة ص ة ب �� � ا ة � � � ش �ب ا ّٰ ب � ب ����ا �م ب ا ���ب�� � ��ة � او ��ل�� ب� ���بم� ة� ��ا ب��ل �� �و� � او ���� �����ص �� �� او ا ة���س� او �مص ا ل ة و ب ح�� ه �ب �� ��و�����م ا لل� ��ل� ص رة� ب � �ب ب� � �ب �� ش �ب ب ا � � � �� � ا � � ب � � ب ب �ب �ول م� ��و ب � ��ة� ا ��ر�ه� ك��ة ��� ة���ع�م��ل� او �ل�� د �ل��ك ا �لب��ر ا �ل��د �ة� ك���مه�� ��لة�� �ه�و ب � �ود �كة��� �ل� ا �����ا � م � ةة � � � ش �ة � � � �ود ا�ا�م�ا ء � او�ا�م�ا ك�� ���ل ا ب��م�ا ك� ����ل�� ��م��ل �مش���ل ا �بل��ر. ح�ة� �و�ل� ��ط�ة�ر �م بص ���ل�� �و ب�� �و�ل� �وح��ص � � �ة ا �� � ب ا ا ب ا ب���ًا � ا � � ب�ة ا � ب � �� � ب � ب� � ب ا �� � � �ة ش ةر و ��د ا ح�ة�� � م �ص ا �ركة�ب�� � ل �ل�� �ب� � ����ل بر ب��ة��ص�و ب��د كة�� �� ص �ل� ب���ل ك��ص � � ب � ب ب ة �� � � �� � � ب ب �� س ح�ب��د �ة ش����ا � �ب�ا ا � � � ��� ب ة ط �� �وه � بو�لة�� ��د �وه � ب�و���ة ب�ةس���وه �ة� ا �ا ���ة� ا �ل��س�ود ا �� .ة ً و� ا ���طج��را ع��ة� ا � ���� ب � ب �ةه ب��ا ���د �و�ب ش�����ةر�� �مب��� ب�ا د � �� ح�ة� �ب ��ةهة��ا ة� ب��ا �ة ب�� � �ش � ��مب� ������ل ب� ار ا � �ب�ا � ة�ر�و� �م ب��ا �ب�ا ��ص ةل ك � � � � � ة ة� ة ج � م �ة � ب � ب � �� � � ب ب� ب �� �� ة ا � ة �ل�ل�� ب ب � ا ب ا� �� �ب ة ���د ا ا � ار �ة� �م� ا � ��هب� ��ط�ا � � او �رك�ة�ب�� .حة��ً�د ر�� او ا ���� ة��� ب �ر �و�ر�ل �ة� � ب��ة� ا���رك� ب� � او � ������ة�ر � ع ش ب � � ���ا ب� �� ��ط��ل�ه ب��ا ا ���� ا ��لب��ر � �و��دة�ل ب��ا ��ب� ا�ا�م����ة�ر ا ���� ا ب� �اة�ل ب��ا ا ���ب� ��ا � ا ��لب ب� ���ا � ب��ام�� �م بص ا �و��ل���ك ا �رك� � ك� ��ل� ة ة ة ب ة و م أ أ ف 1ال��ص�ل� :را ري�ف��ا ٢ .ال��ص�ل :ف���ي�����س.
108
108
٨،٥
٩،٥
١٠،٥
١١،٥
Chapter Five
By then we were suffering from hunger and thirst, and our throats were so
5.8
dry we couldn’t even speak. When we managed to find our provisions, we discovered that the hardtack, rice, and butter were all soggy with seawater. Seawater had, in fact, gotten into all of the food, and the brine had made everything inedible. We went without food or drink till morning. Come morning, we learned that the sailors had thrown overboard every-
5.9
thing that had been on deck. The barrels of fresh water, the cooking stove, and the firewood were gone, along with all the supplies belonging to the sailors and the captain. Our provisions, too, had been lost. The passengers appealed to the captain, asking him to give them some of his own stores, if there was anything left. He took pity on them and brought out a sack from his cabin, containing about four or five raṭls of hardtack, meant for his breakfast, and half a barrel of fresh water, which had been set aside for his own consumption. When the soldier who had stocked the ship saw the captain’s sack and half
5.10
barrel of water, he commandeered them and ordered one of his servants to draw his sword and stand guard next to the barrel of water to prevent anyone from drinking it all at one go. He gave each of us part of a hardtack biscuit to stave off certain death, and a small cup of water to wet our throats. When the full extent of this predicament dawned on the passengers, we lost all hope of survival. “God saved us from drowning; now we’ll die of hunger and thirst instead!” we all cried. We were at a loss for what to do, because the land that lay before us was a deserted wasteland. There was neither man nor beast nor bird to be seen, as there was no water to drink and nothing to eat there. It was nothing but a sea of sand. An old man among the ship’s passengers spoke up. “This country is inhabited,” he said. “The people here harvest qaṣab dates. They dry them and sell them in the Sudan.”75 We agreed that a group of us should form a search party, in hopes of finding someone to sell us enough food to keep us alive. The captain and passengers agreed. They lowered the rowboat into the water, and the first mate and I boarded it along with some passengers. Once
109
109
5.11
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
ب ب��ا � ة � ��ل ب���ل�م�ا � ����ل ب��ا �ع ب��د �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل�� ��ش�� ا ب ب ا ب �ب ب � � ��ل �س�ب�� ش��� �بر�ا �ب�ا � � ��و ب�� و ب �ود ا � او د �م �ة� د �ل�ك ا ب��و �� � � ارة�ل�� �مص �س�ة��م ب ا ب�� ش ح��ا �و ب���د�ل ب��ا ��ب ا�ا�م�����ر �م ب �ب � ب �����د ب�ل �ص ة� �ش�م�� �مش��� ب�ل �ص ة� ا ����� � ب� ب��� � ب ح��ا � او � ة � م�� � � ر ل ةو ب ةو �� ة� ة ة� ة ص ر رب ر � � � � ب ب ة ب � ب �ب � ب ب ب ة �س��ا � �ع��� ب��ا �م ب ا �لة��ع� �ل� � ا ���ل ب��ا ح� ا � ��� ��ل ة ا ب � ا � � � �� �ب ح� ������ ���� ��� �ة� د ��ل�ك ا �ر�م��ل ة� ط�ع� ا � ���� � و ةة ص ب ب � �ل��لب ��� بل ا � �م ة ���ا ب�� ة� ��ب� ��و��ص ��ة� ا �ر�م��ل �� �ل. ك ً � ب � � ة ة � ب ا ��ة�را ب�����د ���ع ب� �و�ع ب��ا �ش���د �ة��د �و����ل ب��ا ا �ة� �ل��ل�ك ا �لب�ة ��و ة� �وك����ل �م ب��ا د ���ل ا �ة� ب��ة�� ة� ب � ب ا �� ة � ب �ة � � � ة �ب ب ا ا � �� ب ة � � ا ���� � � ب ا � ب� � � او ������ة ر � او �لة�� ب��ة� �و مه�� � ب���ل م� برة� د ��ل�� ا ة� ب��ة��� مص ل�لك ا �لب�ة ��و� ارة�ل�� ب�� �ل��ص ب � ب ب ���ا �ب�� �ش�سة� ���ط�ا ب� �و�عة �ص �وب�� ك� د ا ب���ل�� � ب���ل ك� ���ا �ب����ا �عة �صو� ا �ل��م���د ا � �م��ل�� � ب� ار �م ا ��س�ود �و�ه�و ج � �ا ب � ب ب ���� � ب ا ب ا ا ب ا ب� ب ة ا ً�� ا � � ب ش ا ��س�ود �و��و�لة��� ب�لة��ب� بر �بك����ا �ل ب��ا ه ا بل ك� �� � ع��ده �ا د ةب ة�ه�� ه �� ب�� ب�ل�� �ب� ره �� �ة�ل �ة� م��س����ةص ا ة���ص � ب بة ب ة ا �� ش ا�� ة ب ة ا � � ا ب �� � � ا �� ش �بك ا �� ب ا ب �� ا �ه�و 1ا �ل �حب��ر ������ل ب�� �ل�� ا ��� ب�لة�� ك���ل� او ا ب� �� ����� �ل �ل ب�� � � ح بص �م ب�� ك���ل ا �لب�����ة������ �و ل�حج��ر ���� ل�� د �ل�ك ةص م � �� ب ب ب ا�ا�مب�� � ا ��ل�� بد �� �ه� �م�ه ب��ا �م�ا ��ه ا ��ل������������ �ب�ا ��ا ب�ل ب��ا ��ا ب� ا ��ل������������ ��ه �� �وا ط�ةص � ��ره ���ل�م�ا بةل�ب��� ة� ب ب ب ة ة �� ب ة برة� ة و � ة � � � ة ح�� �م���� � ا � د �كصة � �ة ح� ة��س� �� ب � � ب � ���د �مب � ل��� ط �وا ا �ل�شحج��ر ك����ل � او � �� ب ر ب ة �� و � ا �ة� ���د ه ا �ل��ا ���ة� ة� ���م بةب ة ب �� � �ب ��ب ب ب ب �� ة ة ��� �ب ��ب ة � ا��� ب ا �ل�� ب ����م بص �كب�ة�ب� ع �ة� ����� ��لة���ل �مص ا �ل�د �كة �ص� �و�مص ��مص ب�لة�ب����س���م �ة� ����� � بو�لة�� ك��ل�� �و���د ا �ه�و � �ة�� �ة��� �م� �� ل�� ا �ل�شحج��ر. ع ا ك��� � م و� م � ب ب � � �� �� ب ة ة ة ة ب ب ب ب ب با ا با ش ح�ب��د � ش����ا � ��ا �م� ����� ب ا ب و� ع ب �ة ً ���� ا �لب�����ص � او � ����ه�� �ب� �ل�� ������ر�ة� �م����م �مص د �ل�ك ا ��طج��ر ب� � � ح�ة �ب ��ةهة��ا ة� ��� .ا ب���ًا �ب�����ل ب��ا �م���� ب �ب������ل�� ب ا ا� � � � ةص �م بص د �ل��ك ا ����طج��ر ب��ب��ر��شص � او � ���د ةر � م �ب ة ب �م��س ��ط�وج ة� ب � � � �ب � ح���ة � او � � ب ب ة ا ب ا ة � ب ا � � ا ��ل � �� ب ا � ��� � ط�� � ب ا � �� ا � �ب ��د �مص ������ �� �و��ل�� �ل�� ة �م��ل ب �م��ل �برمة��ل��ةص �م�ل�� ه�م ����ة� ب �م��ل � او �����ل�� ه�م ا �ة� ا���رك ب ح�ة �ب��ع�س� �م ب ا�ا�م�ا ء ا�ا�م � ب � ب � ا ا � � ب ة � ب ا � ة � � � ا ب ا ب � �و ب � �ود �ع��د ه�م ��ل�م� ب�� ب� �� او ا �لب��ر�مة��ل��ةص ��ل�� �ل��لك ا ���� �بر� � �ب� �����م ة��� به �ص او ة� ب ة � �م ص � ب ا � � � � ب � ب ا� ا ا� � � ب � �ب ا � ب ب � � �ة ا � � ب ا ا � ب ب ا ا � ب � � ه � � � ��� �ل ب��ا �و�� �� � ل� �ل�� ا �لب� رمة��ل��ةص مص ا�م� ء ا�م�و ب � �ود ع��د �م � ب �� او عص د �ل�ك �و � �� او ل�� �م� ع��د �� �م� ء لة ة� �م � م��ا ب� ��ا �ب �ل ب��� د ا ب��� ا ��ر�م�� �وب�ك��� �ة��لة��� �م ب ا�ا�م�ا ء �ب��ل�م�ا ش��� �ل ب��ا �م ب��� �اة�ل ب��ا ه �م�ا ء �م�ا �ل � � او �� �وب�ا � ك� ل ل ة ل ص بر ةر ج ً ب ا ا ��ل� ��ب ��ل � ا ب با ب � � ب ا ب ة ة ���د ا ا�ا�م�ا ء ا�ا�م�ا ��ل ل�� ا ب� � .ا ب��ة�را ب�لة ب���ر�� ���لة���ل �عص �م� ء ب�ر �و� � ��ر�و�ه � ٢ب� � �� ��د م�ه�� حة�ب��ا ا ��ب� ص ج �ب � � ب ش ب � � ب ب ب ب ا ح���د � ح��د ا ب��ل ح�ة ���م ��ا ب��ل � � � ا �� �وا �ل ب��ا �ب�ا � ���سب��� �بر�مة���ل ا � �� او � � � � � ��د ب����ر��ص �كب����د �م� �عب �صوه ���و �و �ة� � ة ب � ة ة �� � ب ش ب � � ب � ب � ة ش اا �ل ا �ل��ر�م��� ا �لش��ا � � � ��� �م ب ا � �م� � ح�� �ة �� او �� �م� ب ة ل ة� ع �بر�مة���ل ا�م� ء ��م ��م��ل�و��هم ���ة� د �ل��ك ا ب �م��ل �سوة ص ر �ل ة � � � � �و��� �بر�ا ا ��ة� ا�ا��رك� ب�. أ أ 1ال��ص�ل�� :ر ٢ .ال��ص�ل :ا �ل�ف���رو�.
110
110
١٢،٥
١٣،٥
Chapter Five
ashore, we started walking and soon spotted some palm trees, which augured that there were indeed people living in the desert. When we reached the trees, we spied in the distance some tents that looked like Bedouin dwellings. In our excitement, we quickened our pace. After a half hour of marching through the sand, we were gasping and stumbling from exhaustion, our legs sinking ankledeep into the sand with every step. After much effort and toil, we arrived at the tents, and split up to check
5.12
them all. The first mate, a Maghrebi man, and I went into a tent together. Seated inside was a man who looked like a demon: He was black-skinned, with eyes like a monkey’s, and he had wrapped himself in a dark blanket. The sight of him was terrifying! We asked if he had any bread to sell us. “Bread? What’s that, you wretches?” he sneered, and we told him our story. “What do you eat?” we asked. “Bsīsa and dates.” We asked the Maghrebi with us what bsīsa was, and he explained that it was millet flour. “When they come to these parts to dry the dates, each person brings along a sack of flour and a jar of butter,” the Maghrebi explained. “He puts a little flour in his palm and some butter, and mixes them together. That’s what they eat, along with the dates.” After conferring with each other, we agreed to buy some dried dates. Negotiating a price of one piaster for two baskets of dates, we loaded them onto a camel and sent them back to the ship with one of our companions, telling him to bring back a couple of barrels on the camel, which we’d fill with water from the camp’s supply. When the two barrels arrived, we told the Bedouins to fill them with water but they refused.76 “We don’t have enough water for you and us both,” they said, and showed us the spot they’d dug in the sand, which contained a little bit of water. When we drank some of it, we found it brackish, hardly distinguishable from seawater. But we had no choice but to bring some back. Only after strenuous bargaining did they let us fill one barrel for a piaster. They filled a second barrel with some sand to act as a counterweight, loaded them onto the camel, and we headed back to the ship.
111
111
5.13
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
ب ب � ة ا ة ب ب� ا ب ب ا � ا� �� �ب �� �ب�ا ح ب ا �� ب� ًا ب� ا ب � با ب ب�با � � ��ل�م� �و���ل�� �و� �رل�� ا �لب��ر�مة��ل��ةص ��ة� ا � ���� �ة��� �و� �رل�� �ص ة ��� �و�����د �� ا �ة� ا���رك� ب� �� ر ة ���ل �م ب بد ��ل��ك ا ������طج�� �و�ب ش��� ب� �م ب بد ��ل��ك ا�ا�م�ا ء ا�ا�م�ا ��ل با � � �و�م�ا ب�ر�و�� �ب�ا � ة � �س�ة��م ب��ا �ش�ل�� �ش�� ا �ة�ا � ر ر ص �� ك� ص ة م ج ب ً ب �ب ب � � ا� � حب م��ا ب� ا ��� ا ب� �ا �ة� ا ��بل�� �و���د��ة ة� �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل����� او ب� .ا ب��ة�را ���� � � ا � � � � � � د � � �س� ك � � ل ك � حب �ص او ر ة �و ص ر ب ة ةص ة ج ب ا� �� ��ة�� � �ة ة �� ب � ب � ب � ب �وا ا � ��ة���ل�و �و����ا � �بر�ا ا �و�ل �ة ��و� � �وش�ا �ة� �ة ��و� �وك� ا ��� ا��� ار ��ة� �و � �ه� �� ��ط��ل� ���لة�ب��ا ة�� ��� ���� � م م ج � ع ا � ب ًا � � ة � ب ب ة �� ب ��ً�ا ��ل��ل�� �������ب��ا �م�ا ���ا �ل ب��ا ��ب ا ��ل��� ��ل �ب��ل�م�ا ���. حة�ب�ً�د ا � ��هب� ��ط�ا � ا ��ر �ب�ا � �ة���� ة�� ب ة� و ���د � او ا �لب� ر ا �ة�� ة ة ة ب ب � � ب � � � ب ة ب ب � � ب ب ا� �ة ا ا �ا ب ا �� � �ةر�ل ب��ا ا ��� ا �لب��ر �وك� ���ا � د �ل��ك ا�ا ك� م�� � � او �ل���� ���ل �م� كة��� ع���� �� �ل��ر��� او �ةر��� او ا��� ار ��ة� ب��هة��د �عص ب ة ا� � ة �ة ب ا ة � � � � � �ب ب � � ا��ا ب �� � � ة ب ش � ا ا � ����ا � � ا ��لب��ر ب�لش��ل� ��� ا �مة�� �ل �� ���� او ا��� ار ��� � او �س���م�� �ل�لك ا �ل�لة��ل�� �� د �ل�ك ا� ك� م�� � ا �ة� ا �� � ب ة ة � ج � ب ب � � ب ب ب ب ا ة ا ا ب ب ب ب���ل�م�ا ا � ب���� ب � � � � ح��ا �اة�ل ب��ا ا �ل ش����ا �ة��ة��� ��ر� ����� ب �مة��ه�� �مص ���د ا ا�م�� �س��� �و�� �������� �ة� ا �ر�م��ل كب � ة ��ر ب ب ا� ب ا� ا � � ح�ة �� ة ا س� ا ��ل ش����ا � ��ة��� ��� ا �� �م�� � او ������ حب� ة� �و���د ه ا�م��ة��ب��� �ك���� �ل ب�� ا �رة���ص �م� �ه�و ا �ل���ب�� ب� � ة� � ة �ة� ر ل � ب ب � م��ا ب� ب�لة����ة�ر ��ب� ا ��بل� �مة��ا هة ا ��بل� �ر ا ���� ا ���و�ا ب�����د �مة���ل � او ب��ود ب��ا ب��ا ب�ل ب��ا �ب�ا ب� ��� ����ل � ك� �ر�م�د �و� ب�ر ة ة ة ب ا ��ل� �ش� �� � ب ب ���د ا �ش�� � ب ��س��ه �م�ا �م ب��� �ب�ا ��ص .ا�ا��� ا د ا � ة � � � � �س�ة��م ب��ا د ��ل��ك ا �لة �صو� � � � � ع �د � � � م � � � ه � ب �و � � � ب و ر ر ة ة ة ة ة� م م � � ا � � �ة�� � ا ���ل � � �� ا ب ا ��� ا �� ا � �ب ا ب ا � � ا ا �ل� �� ب � ��ركب���ب��ا ��ر����ة� ����� �رم��ل �وللك ل ة��ل� ا ة� � ب م � �� �ر �مك�� ك���ا � ����ج رة�ل�� � ب�� م� ء ب ب ع � ة ة ا ة �� ش ة �� ج ا �� ��ةه� ���ط�ا ب� �م ب بد ��ل��ك � ��ب ا ��ل ب ���� �� ��س��� �ب�ا ���بة�� � ا � � � او ��س���� �م�� ا ل��سة� � ح �� � ���ةص ا ��ر� او و و ة� ة ب ر ر ة ص بة ة ص � � � ة ا ��ل ش �� � � ��� ��ا �ب ��ب� ب �� ا ا �� ا ��ل� ب ���� �ل�ة�ر� او �م�ا �ه�و ا �ل���ب�� ب�1. ا �بل�رة ب ����م ة ر��و ة� ب �ر �و�ة�� ��و�ص� او ح� ��سة�� ة � �ب ا ��ل ش �� � ب � ب � ��ه ��ب� �ش�م�ع� �م ب �ش�م���و ب� ا ��بل�� �ب����ا �� او ���د �ب����و���ا �ل��لب�ع���ة بل ك� ��� �� ��ل� ار � او ��سة�� ة ة ب ص ر � ة ب � ب � ب ب ة � � � ب �ب ة �ة�� �ة��� � د �لة م�� �و���ا �م بص � ك� ��� ��م�ا ا � ك م��ا �����ا �و�ل� �ش��ب��ر �و�ام�ا ل ب����ا ��ة� �ل��ل�ك ��� ا � �ة����د �� او �ةةر�� � � ٰ �م و � م و � ب� م ب ا ب � ب ا ب ا ش �� � �ب ّ ب �� ة ب ة ة �� �ب�ا �ب��د �ع���ا ��ا �ب���ا ا ا ا � ة� ب � ا �ل�د �ة����� � او ���ع� ب� ا �� �� ا لل� �ب� � ���ربج �و�ه�و ا � ب�� � مص ا �م� �م�� ��سة�� ة ��� �� ر � ب ةة ب ة � � � ة � ب ة �ة � ب � � � ���رب� ا ��ة� �ع ب��د �ب�ا ���ل�م�ا �رب�� ة� ا �لة�ب��ا �����ا � ا � ��هب� ��ط�ا � � او �رك�ة���� ة�لة�صو�����ل� او ا ��ة� �كب� ��ط�ا � �ل��ل�ك ب � � ح�ة ���د �ب���� ا �ش�س� �����ة�� ب��ا � �و�����ا ���د � او ب� ��ة�� ب��ا � ���� ��ا ب� ��ا �� ب� �لة��� ��ا �ب���� ��ب� بر���� او ا ���� ا ��بل� ا �ل ش��سة� �� ة� ة و ة ة ة ة ب ة ب ر ر ر ر ة ة ة ة � م �ة ح ب ب� ب �� ا �ة ح�ة ���د �ب���� ا ا ��ل ش��س� ������� ا ��� ا ���ب�ع��ة � ا ���ب�ع ة ا ة � ب � � � ل � ا � � � � � ا ا � ل �� ح � � � ��د م � ل � � � � � ك ا ��ة� � ���� .ة��ً�د ر��و ب رة و ب � و ع ب ةر ة� ة و ة ة ة� �� ب � ب � ب� � ب � ب�� ا ب � ب م�� عو���ا � او � ة � ةر�ع بر� ��م�ا ا � ك �س�ة��ا � �� او د �ل��ك ا �لة �صو� ��ة� ����ل �م��ر����� ��م�ا �ب�ا � �� او �� ار �س��� . � � � � م م م ة � ة � �ة�ا ���� ا ��ا ��ل ب� ح�ب��د � ب ب�ل ب��ا � �ع�ب��ا � ا ��ا � ب ���� ة� ا ��ل ش��س� ������� �ب ب ��م�� ب ��ا ب� ا ب �س��ا �م ب ا ��ل � � ا � ك حة �صوه ل د ة ة ر ة ً ر و� ب و ة و و ب ةص ب ص ر ٰ � ة ب ب � � ة ة ة ة ة ب � ب �ب ب�لة��د �ب��ر ا ّلل� �����ا �� �و� �و�� �� ح��� بص � ��و�كة����� � ش����ا �و� � او ا �رة������ةص �ب�ا � ة�لب�����ل� �و�ا ب �مة��ه ب��ا ا �ة� �ل��ل�ك ل�ص ة ة � � ب با �ا ب ب ا ب ا ا � ب ب � ب ا ا ��ل ش��س� ��� � � حة ب� �ب ا ا � �� ب� �و�لب��� ب�� �م بص د ��ل��ك ا�ا ك� ة ة م�� � �� ��ر� �و� �ب� �ل��ر�و�ل �� ��ص ب�����د �� ��ص ��� �ة� ةح� ���رك ة ص أ ��. 1ال��ص�ل :ا �ل����� ف
112
112
١٤،٥
١٥،٥
١٦،٥
Chapter Five
We arrived at the dinghy and unloaded the two barrels, got in ourselves,
5.14
and rowed out to the ship. We all dug in to the dates and drank that brackish water, which did nothing to quench our thirst. We lay anchored in that spot for three days until, finally, the sea grew calm and the waves subsided. The crew weighed anchor and unfurled the sails, and we set off. But on the second day, a strong gale picked up around noon, and the captain ordered the sailors to turn landward so we wouldn’t be battered again. As we approached the shore, it became apparent that the water off the coast was shallow, so we had to drop anchor three miles from land. We spent the night there. When morning came, we awoke to find our ship mired entirely in sand! We couldn’t believe our eyes. What a calamity! How had the ship come to be beached on the sand, we asked the rayyis, with the sea now a mile or more away? “It’s just the tide,” he explained. “It’s a natural thing, which you’d know about if you were sailors. No reason to worry.” We spent the day and night with our ship anchored in the sand, and the next morning the sea had risen again. But the ship remained lodged in the sand. The rayyis and the captain were surprised. They promptly ordered the sailors to dive into the water and swim under the ship and have a look. It turned out that the ship was caught on a reef. Using all of their strength
5.15
and skill, the sailors tried to push the ship to deeper water, but it wouldn’t budge an inch. As we stood on the brink of disaster yet again, God delivered us from our predicament. Another ship appeared, which we hailed as it passed. When it drew near, our captain and the passengers begged the other captain to order his men to jump in and help our crew push us out to deeper water. The sailors jumped down from their ship and added their efforts to those of our crew, but weren’t able to wiggle it loose. We spent the whole day locked in a fruitless contest. Perhaps the ship was damaged, they suggested, only adding to our sorrow, fear, and despair. But by God’s providence and inspiration, the two rayyises held a consultation and decided to transfer us all to the other ship so ours
113
113
5.16
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
ب ا ب ب � ب ا � ب ا ب ا ة ة ة � � � ب ا � � ب ب ��ا ب �ب � ة ا � ة � � � ب ب ب� �ة� ا � ���� � ب� � �و������د ا �ة� �ل�لك ا �ل��م�عة���� كب����د �م� � �رل�� ب �مة��ه�� �� �لب �� �� او �ل�لك ا �ل������ ا �ل�دة�ص ك�� � �� او ب ا ب ب ��ا ة � ة � ا ب ب � ا ب ا ب ب � ب ا � ب ا ب �� ا � �لة�ص �����ل� ا ��ا ب�ل ب��ا �ب�ا �ب�� ا � ���ا � � � �ل ا � � � ة و و � و ب و و ةو �م�ه�� �و��ص �ة� ك�� ��ره ا � ��هب� ��ط� � ��ل�م� �ا � �و� � �رل�� ب �مة��ه�� و ب �ب�ا ب���د �ه� �م�ه ب��ا. م � �� ب ب � ��ا �سب ��ا ء �����ب�� ب��ا �ة � ��ب بد ��ل��ك ا ���� �كة ة� ���م�ع ة �� ة� �ا�م�ا ل ب��� ��ب ��و�� ةص ��� �ةل��ل�ك ا � ب��� �رة�� �وب�� � � � ل � �د � ك � � و ة� ب ر و �ل ة ب ب � ب ة �� ا��ب ب ة � � �ة ب ب ب � � � � � � م ة ة ة ا ا � � � � ح� �م د �ل��ك ��� ��� ا به ه �و�هة��ا ب��ا � ا بل� � �� �� � �ر بل ك� ح ب� �و�م� ك��� ��ل�م� �ب� � �ر�م� ة ����ل �وك��� ب� ب ص ة ب ش ب� � �ب ب ������ة ��ب بد ��ل��ك ا ���� �كة ة� � ا ّٰلل� �ة����ا �� ب���ل� ا ا ���� ا � � و و ����� �و��� ��ص د �ل��ك ا ���������ل �و�اة�ل��� ��ة� � ��ده �و� ة� و �ا ا � � � � ب � � � ب ب ة م ة � ا � ب � � ل ب � � � ��ط ار �ل�ل��ص ا ���رب� �ة� ا � ��د ا�� �ا � ���و�ل �مص ا ب�لة��� �ول��� ه �ب� ���ر� ���. ب ة ا ب ة ا ب ب � ب ا �� ب ا �ب ة � � �� ش � ب ب � ب ب ب � ب � � ا ا � � ���ر ب� �� ا ��ة� �م� ل ب��� �ة� � ���دده كب����د �م� ا �ل � ��� �ر�و�ل�� �و� �� بو�ل�� �ة� �ل�لك ا ل��سة� �� ة ���� �ر��� او ع � ب ب � �� �ب�ا ة ب بة ب ا ة ة� � بب � ح�ة ���د �ب�� �� ا ��م�بهة� ب��ة�ب��ا ا ��� ا ���ع� ��ة �و� ب ب��مة�� ع ب�ر��ة� ��م�هة������ �وب�ر��ة� �ل�لك ا �ل��م�عة���� ة� ة و حص � ر ة � � � � ب ب� ب بب � ����ا ��� �م بص ا �� بر�م�ا ب� ا ��� ا ب� ب�ر ب� �����ا ���د ��ه �ب�ا �ل��د ��� � او ����ط��لب��ا ة� � �� ح� ح ة� ��م�هة���ة���ا �م بص د �ل��ك ة م م � ب ا ا ّٰ �ة� ا �� ا ��ل ش��م�ع�� � 1ش���ا �بك ة� �� ا�ا�م�ا ء �م ب ب��� �ع ����� � ��ل�� ب ح�ب��د �ش �� ا ��ل�ة � � � � � � � � � لل � . � � � � �س � � � � ب و ص ة ر ب و ر� ب ة ً ر ة� ة� �بة� ���ة � � � ب ة ش ب ا ا ا ب ا� ���� �و���� � �ر�. ح����ا �ب�� ا �لة��� � بو�����ده �� �وا ���ل�و� ا �ل��سة� �� ة ب � � ب ة �� � ب ا ة � � �����د � �� �م�� ب ةص �م بص �م����ة�ر�ب�ا �و ب���د ا �ر��� ا � ك� ح��د �و�����ة� ��ة� �ل��ل�ك �س��ل�� ا �ل� ا ����� ��دة��م�� �ة بو ة و ةص ب ب � � ش ب � ب ة � � � � � � ب ب �س���ل�� � ���د �ع ب��د ��ه ���� �ل�ل�� ك��� � ا �ل ش��� � ���ل�م�ا ��ب��� � ا � ا �� ا �ل��� ك� �س���ل�� �ب�� بر��م� ب��د �� ��ص ��ة� �ل�لك ا �ل�� ك� و ب م ة� ل و رب ب ب � �م ب � ب � ب � �ب ا � ة � ة ب �س��ة��م ب��ا ���د ا ب��م�ا ��ه� ا � ك� د ب���ل ب��ا ��م�ا �اة�ل ب��ا ا � �و�ه ��د �س��ةص ���دة��ده � �س���ل�� ��دة��م�� � �بر�ا �ب�� �م� به� ة ب ب ًا ب ا � ب� � ة ب�� � �ة ���ل ة� �ة�� ا �ب�ا ���ل ا ��ش�� �و�ب ش��� ب� بد ��ل��ك ا�ا�م�ا ء ا�ا�م�ا ��ل ��� �� ك�� ع��م ب��ا � او � د �ل��ك ا �لة �صو�م ا �ة�� ح�ة� �ة�ب����س� � �ل� �ة و ر ر �ب ج � ا �ة�����ل� ا ا ��ل� � ة ب �� ة � ا ة ���ا �ب�� ا ��ب ا ��ل ش��س� ������� � �� �� �م�ا �ل ب�ص ���د �ع ب��د �ب�ا ب و و ب ة ة وو ة وب � �رة�� ح�ة� ا �����م ا ك���ل� او �� ��ط� � ا �ل��دة�ص ك� و ة� � � � � � ش � ب � ة � ة ب� � � � ب ��� � � ب ب ب ��ا ك ا �ل��د �� � ا ب ��ب��ا ا �لب��� ب�� �و�ل� �����ا �ل �ع ب ا �ل � ح ك� �م بص د �ل��ك ا ����ر �ل� �ل��ر�م ب��ا ��ا ك���ل ب����� �� �ر� �مص ا ك��ل ة ص ص ب � � ّٰ ة � � ب �ب بد ��ل��ك ا ��ش��ر �و� ح ك� ح بص ���ا �بر � بص ��� ا � ��ا � ا لل� �����ا ��ة� ا ��ة� ا � �ة�ا �ة�ة�� ب��ا �ب�ا � ���رب�. ة � م ج � ة ً ة �� �� ب حة � ��� ا ��ل�� بد � ���ل�� ب ا ا ب ب � � � ل � � ا � ا ب��ة�را ب��ة�� ب��ا ��ب� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل��� � � �م �س� ب � ه � ك �م � ح � � � � � ل �ص � ��� � � � � � ة ة ة� م و� و ة� ب بر ة ب� � ة � ة � ب � ب ���ا ���� � ا �لب ب� ���ط�ا �ه ب���ل�م�ا ��ا ب� �و�كة ة� �ب����ب� ا �ل��لة���ل ب��ا �ب��� �صو ب� ح��ص ب� � ���� �ع �ة��م�� �و��هة� �كب� ��ط�ا � � ب ة� ب � � ا ��ل ش �� ة � � ة ب � ب ���� ا �ب���ب��� �م بص ��ة�ا ده � ار ء ا �ل ش��سة� �� ���� �و����ل ة� ا �ة� �رب� ا �لب��ر � او ش���ر�ك ة� ���� ا �لة���ل�� ة ��سة�� ة ة ً ً ب �ة � ب ا �� � ��م � ا ��ل� � � �ب ا � � ب ب � �� ةص ��� ب� �ع بص ��ش���ده � او �ل�بل��ك����ا � ا ��ب�ا ا ��ب�ا ���ل�م�ا �ا ء ا � ��هب� ��ط�ا � ����ل �� ل� �و ب ة� ب�ر� � ة�م� ع ة أ ش ��. 1ال��ص�ل :ا �ل�ع����� ف
114
114
١٧،٥
١٨،٥
١٩،٥
٢٠،٥
Chapter Five
would become lighter and rise up from where it had settled. They ordered us to take turns crossing over to the other ship in the rowboat. After we’d all disembarked, the women, who had been kept behind in the captain’s chambers, began to cry and beg us to take them along as well. Suddenly, I heard a baby crying, and I remembered that when we were
5.17
stuck in the maelstrom I had heard the same thing. At the time, I was utterly mystified, ignorant as I was that someone’s wife had given birth during the storm. She delivered it safely, thanks to Almighty God, and the child lived! I later saw him in the arms of his father, in one of the quarters of Tripoli. They’d nicknamed him “Man Overboard.” But back to our story. After we’d all disembarked and boarded the other
5.18
ship, our sailors and their sailors went in to push our ship toward deeper water. We aided them with our prayers for an hour or so, until the ship was finally clear of the reef and bobbed up to the surface of the water, with no damage anywhere! We thanked God Most High for His beneficence, unfurled our sails, and set off. After two days, the rayyis discovered an old moorage and dropped anchor,
5.19
hoping we might find people there who had food and drink. But the place was deserted. It was an old quay that had been abandoned years before and was now in ruins. We remained there that day, eating dates and drinking brackish water until our throats were dry and our strength sapped. The sailors went so far as to eat the cats that were on the ship. Were it not for the dates, we would have been forced to eat each other. This is to say nothing of the itch we got from eating all those dates! We patiently endured God’s will, waiting for Him to deliver us. We spent the night on that quay. Everyone fell asleep, including the party of sailors whose turn it was to keep watch. At midnight, a loud noise jolted us awake. It was the captain, who’d woken and seen that the ship had drifted close to the shore and was about to be smashed to bits! Seeing the sailors still asleep, the captain lost his mind. Seizing his cane, he began to beat them mercilessly.
115
115
5.20
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
ا ب ح�ة �� ا ��� �� ًل�� ا با ب � � ��� ��ب���ة�ر ���م�� �ب ��ة �� ��ل�� ������ ا ��ل �� ب� ا ��بل� �و ب ب و ر �و� �ص او �ب�� �� ��د ب�لة��ده �ع��� ه �و��� � �ة�� ر ة م � � ب� ة � ش � � او �ل� ا ل ك ����. �����ر� ا �ل��سة� �� ة ب ة � ب �ة ���ا �ب���� �ب�م�ا �ب�� ب �و���ا � � او ة����� �ص� او ب��مة�� ا ��ل� حبص� او � � �كب��� ب� حب���ل ��ر���ة��� ا �لب��را �لة��� ح�ة� ع ب� �رة��� ك� م ةص � �ب ا � ة � ب ا�ا� ا � � � � ا ب � � ا � � � ب ���� ا ا ��ل ش��س� ������� ا ��� ا ��ب�ع���ة �ب ا � او ا ��ل حب���ل � �ل� مص ��ر���� ة� ا �لب� ر �لة�� �و م� �� د ة � �م��بص �ب�ا � �ةر ب� و ة �ة ة � ر � � ب ب� � � ب ة ب � � �� � ب�� �ةر ب� ���� او ���ا ا ��ة� ا ���ع���ة� � او�ا��ر���ة�� ة� ا�ام�د ��و�ه ��هة� ا � ب��مة�� ا�ا�� ار ك� ب� � او �ل��م�ه� بص �كب���ل د � �و�����م ا ��ة� ع ة ة ا� �� � ا �ش�� � � ا � ب� � �� ة ا �لب �ب �م � � ا �ب ا ��ل� ا � ك� �ر � �و�ة��� � ل�� ب�ة��� � ��ر ا ��ة� ح�� � �س��ة��م ا���رك� ب� م� �ة� �و ب �س��ل� �م� ب ���� ة���ل �ب�ةر �� او ��� �ة� ب ب � � � � ب � ة � � �ب ب �� � � � ح�� � ة � ���� ة �ة �� �ة �ل �م�ا �ة��د ب���ل ا ��� ا �ل�� ك� ح�ة� �ل� ة�����ود ة�لب� � �س��ة�� ا�ا��رك� ب� �ة� د �ل�ك ��ر ب �س��ل��� .وك�ة�ً�د �ب�ة� �رب� ��ط� او ا � ب �ل ة م � � ب � �ب ة � � ا ب�ل � ��ة ��� � ا �ل�� �لة�ة � �� ة ا � ا � ًا � �ة �ب �ب ب � � ا�ا ك� م��ا � �ل�� ��ر���ة��� ا �لب� ر ة�� ب م��س��� �و م� ب ة ��ود ة ���د م ا �ة� ��د م ب��د بل��ل ب�لة��� �ة� د �ل�ك � ة � ب � � �� ب ة � م��ا ب� �و�ا�م�ا ���ر���د � او �����ا �ب � او �ب�ة������ حب �ص او � � ا�ا ك� حب���ل ��ر���ة��� ا �لب��را �لة��� ا ��ة� �م�ا �ة�����ل ا�ا��رك� ب� ���و�� بة ة ة ر ة � � با ب �مب ا � � ب �� ا �ش ب ح�� ���� ش��س �ب �ب� �ة �مب ا � ة ��� �ل� � ���� � �س او ��� �و��هة� �بر�مة���ل �� ���ة� �� �بر ��و ��ط ب� ب �ل ب ة �و� �و� � � ��� ح�ة� ة���س��د ��� او � � ب ة � � ب ب � � ة �� ة � ب � ا ا ا ا ا �� � � � � � ب ح��� � � ل م�� � ا �ل���� �� ��ط�� �كة��� � بوة � ا ��بل� � � �ر�� ���� � ك� ح�ة� ������ل ا �ة� ب�� �� ب� ا���رك� ب� حب �صو��� �مص د �ل�ك ا � ب ل ة � ا ��� � ب � ة� � �� ا ا �� � ة � ب ا� ا �ل � ا � �س��� � � � ب� � ا �ةك�� ب � � �و������ ��ل�ل�� � ك� � � � �س���ل�� � ا � ا م � ك � � � � ل � � � د �و �� ب �ل � ل� ب�ةر � ةم�ةص �وب�ةرب ط�و �� �ب� ط ��ةص وم� ب ة �� �و ة� م ب ب ب ب ���ا ب� ������ �ة ب� �ش���ا �ة��ةعة�ب��ا ا ��� ا ��لب��ر ��ل�� ب� � ��ر�ب�ا �و���د ا ك� حب���ل ��ر���ة�� ة� ا ��لب��را ب�لة��� �ك�� د �� ب�ل����� �مة���ل �م ب ب ر ة � � ب ب بة � �ب ط� � او �ب ب��� د �م ب �ةل��ل�ك ا ��� ط� ب� � �و� ا ��ل��دة� بص ��� �ة�ا د ��ل��ك ا�ا ك� ا � ��� ��ل م��ا �. � ص ر ة � ع � � �� �� ��ب �م�ا ل ب��� ح�ب��د ا �� ا �� ��� ��ل�بل��� ��� ��ا �ب��� ��ب� ب ���� ا ��ل��ل�ة��ا ��ا ح��� �م ب � � ب� � ا � � � . ط � � ب ر ر و � ر � ة ً ر رة ص رة ب � م ة و ب ة ب و بل ص �و ع ة � ة �ب ا ا� ة ا ب � ة ����� ا �ل��لب�ع ة �ب��ع � �� � � ا ��ل ش��س� ��� � �� �� ة ا �� ح � �� ة ة ��� ا �ة� ا ���� � بب� �وة���د �� او �ب� �م��� د ة� �� �ة� ة حبب �صو��� ���� �م�ل� او �مك� ا ��ره�م ا �رة���ص ب ة ّٰ �� �� ا ���ع ة � ب ��ة�� � �� � ة حة ة � � ة � ا � � � � � ل � � � ا � ��� ا �ة� ���� .حة��ً�د � � بو�م��� �و�� ا لل� ����� �ة� ا حب�� �م� � �وا ا � ����ل�� �و�ط�لب �ص او د ��ر ب�ر �ة� م � � ب� � � � �س���ل�� �م�ة��د ا � ش ا �ب���� ب�����د � او �ع بص ا �ل��� ك� ع���ر� بص �مة���ل � او �م ب�ص او ����� ��ا ����� �م بص د �ل��ك ا ���� ��� ب�. � م � ة ب� � ب ة بم� ا ��ا ب � ��ا ب ا �� � �م�� �ش ا � ��ب �� � ش ا ا ا ا ب � � � � � � ا � � � � ا م� � ح � ك د � � � � � � � � � � � ك ك �� � ��� � � ل � � ل � � � � ك ��ل�م� ك�� � ا � ب ج � بع ر ب ة� � ب ر ة �ل ة � ة �ة� � � ا� ا �� ب�� ب ا �بك���� ا� ش ب � ا � اب ا ��� �� ����ا �ب �ب�ا ب ة ا ا �ل� �و ب��� ا�م� ء �مك� د ��ر�� � حبص� او ا���ر���ة��ة��� �مص ��� ب�ر �و��ب� ��ط�و��� � 1ة� ب�� �� ب� ا���رك� ب م ر ة � � ��ا ب � ب ش ة � �م�ه ب��ا ������ ����د ا ا�ام�ة��د ا � � ه او � او ��بل� �وك�� � ا � ط�ه ب��ا �م����ا ب��� �� بم��ر ��م�ا �ب�ة�� ة� ا �ة�ا � ب�لة �صو� ح�ة� �� ��ل � � � � ب ة ر ب ة م م � � ب ا ةا � � �� ة �� � ��د �ل ب��ا �م بص �ة��و��ل ا �ر��� �ب�ا ب� ��� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل��لة���ل�� �مب�����ل ا ��� ا � ك� � او � ���د ����� �م� �� �� ة �س��ل� �ط ارب�ل�ل��ص ةص ة ة ا� ب ا ب با ب � ب � �ب ب با ب �� ه � .ب ��ب��ا ا ��ل��� ب�� ��ا ��ل����ل���م�� � �ب����� ب��ا ا ����رب� ا�م�د ��و� حة��ً�د ��� � �ع��د �� �رج �ع ���ة��م �و�ه�ة���� ب����� ب ص ب و ة ب �� �ش��� ا ��ل�� بد � � ا ��ل ب�ا �م ب ا�� ب ��ا ���ط � او ب��ل � م � ���ا ب� ��رك� ���ب��ا ك� �و �و�م�ا ة� ش��سب��� د ��ل��ك �وك� ���ا �ب�� ���ط�ة�ر ���ط�ا � � � � � ةر ك��ل ة� ة� ب ر � ص ب ة� ر � أ 1ال��ص�ل :ورف�وطو�ه�ا.
116
116
٢١،٥
٢٢،٥
٢٣،٥
Chapter Five
“Get up! Hurry! She’s running aground!” The sailors all jumped up like madmen and began hauling on the line tied to
5.21
the outer anchor, in order to pull the ship out to deeper water. But the rope had come loose from the anchor, so they had no way to pull us to safety! All ships, you see, drop an outer anchor half a mile from a harbor. As the anchor line plays out, the ship advances into the harbor. The rope is then tied down so that it can’t unravel further. That’s how the ship remains in place, with the outer anchor holding it fast so it can’t go any closer to land. When it’s time to sail again, the sailors pull on the outer anchor line until the ship returns to the spot where the anchor was dropped. The spot is marked by a buoy— an empty barrel tied to the anchor by a rope. The sailors heave it up with the rope and tie it securely to the starboard side of the ship. When they arrive at another harbor, as I’ve said, they drop it half a mile out again. This was why our ship had drawn so close to land: The rope of the outer anchor had been severed by the rocks on the seabed! Back to the story. The rayyis ordered the sailors to get into the rowboat,
5.22
rig a towline, and row toward deeper water. They did as he ordered, and with the help of God Most High, pulled the ship clear. They raised the sails and made for the open sea, reaching a point about twenty miles from the harbor. We’d been saved. In the morning, the ship returned to where the buoy was floating on the surface of the water, as I described, and we pulled up the anchor from the seabed. After tying it to the side of the ship, we sailed off. The sea and wind were fair, and we were able to make up eight days’ journey in a single day. According to the rayyis, we were to arrive in Tripoli that very evening. We were overjoyed and congratulated each other on our safe arrival, forgetting the perils that had befallen us, the hunger, and all the other tribulations. Our ship was like a bird, flying over the surface of the water. We sailed all day and half the night, lit brightly by the full moon. “Are we approaching the harbor?” we asked the rayyis (this is what he’d told us, after all).
117
117
5.23
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
� � �س�ة��م ب��ا �م����ا �ب � ب بد ��ل��ك ا ��لب �و ب��� ا�ا�م�ا ء ب��ا � ة � ���ا � � �وةل��ل�ك ا �ل��لة���ل�� ا ��� ا ب� �سب���� �م بص ا �ل��لة���ل �ب����ب��� � رةص ة ة � ��ا ب ة � � ب � � � �ك�� �ة�ا ��ل ��ل ب��ا ���ا ب� �ب��د � �بك����ا ��ل ب��ا ا ��ر��� ����ل �ةر�ل ب��ا ا ��� ا �ل��� ك� ��ة��� �ل�� ب� ا � ��ة���رك� �وك�� ��� �لة��ل�� �س� �س���ل�� �م ب ة ةص � � ��ة��ب� ا �ب�� ب�ر� � ح����ا �ب�� ��ب� ا ����و�ص�و��ل ا ��� ا �ل��� ك� ���ا ب� ا ��ر��� ��ب� بد ��ل��ك ا ����و�كة ة� �م�د �ه�و��ل ك� �وك� �س���ل�� ة ةصة ة م � � ب ب ب �ب ب ة �����ا � �ة��ة�ة���� �ع���ة� د ��ل��ك ا�ا ك� �ك�� ا �ب�� � بم���ه�و� �ع ب��ده م��ا � ���ل�م�ا ��ا ����� � ار ء �م�ا �ه�و ب�ر ��ط ارب�ل��ل��ص �م ص م � �ب ب ��ل � � � � �ل �ة ا � ب �ة � � �ة ب� ب ب � ب ���� ا ��ا �ل ا ��را �بل�� �ر�� �ب�ا �ب���� �ةل�� بل� �� او �ة��ل� ا � ك ل��ب��ة ر ة ب� ��و مص �ل� ا �ل� رل ك ��ة� ة� �������� ا ��ة� ا � �ة��ب��م � ة �ة م �� بع � ش ة ع �� ش ة � ب ب ب � ب ج � ��سوه �������ل ���ة�ر ا ��ة� ا � ا �ب��م ا ���ب��م � � �و�ة ار ����ل ا �ب�� �ة�ا �ة�� ا �م �ل� �����ا � ��ركب��ب��ا ة��م����ة� ���لة��ل�� ���م � ج � ج � ����ا � �ب ا �ل ب��ا ا ��لب��ر �م بص ب�����د �و ب� حب���ل ��� ��ة�. ا �� ر �بج ة � � � � ب � � ب ة ا ب با � ب ةا ا ب ا حة��ً�د �� ��� او ا�م��� ��ب�� ا �ل��دة�ص �م�ه�� �ل��لرة���ص �ب� � ����ل �بر �ه�و �بر ��ط ارب�ل��ل��ص ا � ����دة��م�� �و��هة� ة � � ��س��� ب ���د�لش��� � ة ب���هة��ده �ع ب ���ط ا �ل��ل�� ا ��ل ةص �مة���ل� .و�كةة�ة�ً�د � ح�ة��ة� �ع ب��د ا �ر��� �ب�ا ب�ل ب��ا �بكة� ب��ا ا � ك� �س���ل ة� �ة ب ةص ص رب ص �م ب ا ب ا� � ب � ب � ب � ب ب ب ة � � � � ا ا ا ا ��� �ل��ا ب��د� ب ب � ��ط ار �ل��ل�� �و���ب��ب��� ك� ���ا � �مص ��ة� ده ا ة� ر � ا �ل�د �ة� ك�� � �م�ه�� �وك�� � �مص �ب� � ا���رك� ب ب ة ب ص ج ً ���ش �م ب بد ��ل��ك ا �عب�� �� بم�� � ش ش��م�ا �ب��� ة� ����ا ��� ة� �����ا ��� ب��ا ب��� � ع���ر ����ا ��� ة� ب�����ا ��� .ا ب��ة�را ا د � ة ر ص ب ة� ر ب ا ا ب ب ا � ة ��ا ب ا� ا� � � ب � � م��� ��م�ب �� �� ش � � ب � ا �و ���ةص ك�� � ا ���ه� او �م�ه�� ��� � � د ا � ا���رك� ب� ا �ة� ا �رب�� ���د �� ح�ة� ك�� � ا���رك� ب� ة �ة� �ر � ب ���د ا ا�ا�م ب�ص ا ��ل �ش�ل�� �ش��ة ا ��ا � �ل��ل��ا ��ل���ا ا � ب ح�ة � ����ل ب��ا �س�ة��م ب ا ����ا ��� ب���ع ش��� ����ا ��� ة� � او � ة � ة م ب ة ة� � ب �����ةص � ة� و و ر �� ���ة� �� ة �� � ا ��� ا � ك� � ا �س��ل� طر �ل�ل��ص. ة ب �� ب � � ب ب ا ب � � ب � � � ا �� �ب ا � ب� � ب ب ا ب ل � � ل � � ا � � � � � � م � ���د �و�ل�� �ربج ة� �� ��� مص ا �لب� ر �ه�� عص ا �ل�د � �و �ة� �� �ل د � ح��د ب � �و�ل ا �ل� �ب� ب � حة ج � � � � � ب � � � ب ة � � ا � �س�� � � ا � ة ب ���� ���� ا ��� د ا ���ل ا �ل�� ك� حة ب � � ب � � � ا �ل ش � �س���ل�� �ر��� او ا��� ار ����ة� �ة� �ربج مص ا �ل� ك�ل� � ة�����ةص �و حب �ص او ��سة�� ة ة � � ب � � �و�� ب�� �� او ا �� ��ة���ل�و �مش��� �ع� او ���د �ه� �وك�� ���ل �م ب��ا �ه� ��ة� ا ����ط��ل�و ا ��ة� ا �لب��ر. م ب ب� �ل ة م � � ب � ب ب ب � ش ة ب عب���ة ب��� ب ة ش ا ا ب �ك�� ب� � � �و ��ة� د ��ل��ك ا ���و�كة ة� ب��ا �ب� �� �ة��� �وكة��� �مص ا ����ة����ص ا �ع��� ��� او �ة� �و�ر��ص ا �� � � م ر ب � ة ج با ش ة �م��ل�� ا �� ب �ة ح�ة ��ا ����ل� ا � �م ب ا ب ���ل � �ة � ا ب ب �� � ب ش � � ا �ل�ل�� � � � � � � � � ك � ةر �� �����ر�ة� ا � ��هب� ��ط� � د �ل�ك ا � ���ر��ص �مة����� � او �ع ��ط� ه ب� �رة ة� ة و و ص ب � � ب ب ب � � ��بل � ب �� ��� ب� � او ك� ا ب���د ة� ��عة ��ب� �مص د �ل�ك ا�ب� ر ا ����ل ة� �م ب��� � ��ة��م�� ��م�ا ة��د � ة� ا ب�ل��ل� ���ا �و�ا ��ة ة� ��ل ل�ك ط��ه � م � ج م � ب � ح ة� ا �� ب�ع ��ب� �م ب ���د �� � ���� ب ع� ة� �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل��ل��د ا �� ��ة ب��� ب ���ا بد ��ل��ك ا ��بل ط�ه� ��م�ا د �� ��طر� �ب�� بر ك� ���ا �ب�� ��ل ة� ب ر صة ة و رة ب بم �ة �� ب ا �ة �� ب � ا � �م ة ا � � ا ا � � ة � ة � � ا ةا � �م� ب��ة���� ك��ل ��ل�م� �ا �ة� �م���ل��مة� ���ر� �� �ل �ة� �م� �ب� �ل�ك ��ل��ل�� ب�����د ك��ل ����ل �ع�� � او �ل��ع ب� ح�ة� ا ا � ب ��� ���ل � ة ط�ع�م�� � ���ل ��ل �و����ل ب��ا ا ��� ���ا �ه ب��ا ��ا ��ل����ل�� �م�� �و� ار ب�ب�� بر ���� ب�ل��ل��د �م� ب����ة�� ك�� ط�ه� ا �ل��را ب� ���ل�م�ا ���م� ل ب ة ة ب � � ب ة م� �ب � ب ب ع �� � �ة� ب �� �� ّ �ة �� ة ب ب ب ط�ه� ��م��ك ��ب���� �ل� � �ل��ك �م�ا � �م�ا � ب � ط � ل � � � � � � � � � � � � ا ل ا �ك ��� �و �� ب� ر ��و ة� � ل� �� ب� � �م��ة� ����ل ك�ل � ةر ة ص � � م ة ة م ����ل ة� ا ��بل ا ك� �ب�� بر. 118
118
٢٤،٥
٢٥،٥
٢٦،٥
Chapter Five
He seemed perplexed, trying to work out how his calculations about our arrival had been wrong. Checking the water’s depth, he found that it was not, in fact, the Sea of Tripoli, as he’d thought! Immediately, he ordered the sailors to take down the mainsail and leave the trinket sail at half-mast until morning. He’d then be able to see whether he had taken us off course or not. Our ship slowed to the pace of a small child. When morning broke, we spotted land in the distance, and a towering mountain. “That’s Old Tripoli,” the Maghrebis said to the rayyis. “It’s sixty miles from
5.24
New Tripoli.” The rayyis realized we’d sailed right past Tripoli harbor on account of those high winds. He’d thought that in the course of a single hour the ship would cover an eight-hour journey, but it was even faster than that, covering a tenhour span in just one hour! So he had to turn the ship around and go back the way we’d come. But now the winds were against us, and it took ten hours to cover a single hour’s journey. We continued in this manner for three days and nights before finally arriving at the harbor of Tripoli. As we were entering the harbor, a great gale rose up from the land and pre-
5.25
vented us from advancing. It was only with great effort and the help of two dinghies that came out to pull us in that we were able to gain the harbor, where the crew dropped anchor and furled the sails as usual. We couldn’t wait to reach dry land. A rowboat appeared carrying food—fruits, and a round wooden platter bearing loaves of bread. The captain bought the whole platter and gave it to the sailors. I took a loaf myself and bit into it. I wasn’t able to swallow it—it tasted like ashes! I threw it aside and cursed this place and its inedible bread! “What’s the matter?” my master said when he saw me toss the bread aside. “We’ve finally arrived safely, after all that suffering and exhaustion, only to find that the bread here is disgusting!” I complained. “It tastes like dirt!” “The bread is delicious,” he said, laughing at me. “Your sense of taste has changed because you haven’t eaten bread in a long time.”
119
119
5.26
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
� � � ة ب �ً ب ب � ب ا � � ب ب � �ة � �وا ا �� ا � �ل�� ح��ا ��ة� ا � ��ة��ا � ب� �و ��ط��ل�ه ب��ا ا �ة� ا �لب��ر �و��� ���د �ب�ا ب�ر�و� ا �ة� ب��ة�� ة� ا � ��هب�� ��ر ة ر ر �ة ج � � ب ب� ا ب با � ا � ب��� �ب����ا � �و�� ا �� ��ة��ا ���� ب ��ب� �ةل��ل�ك ا�ا�م�دة�ل ب��� �و�ه�و ة����م�ا �ا�م�ة�ر� او �و��ل�� ب���� ة� � ك� م���ل�� ��ل�م� د ���ل�� ا �ة� ة ص ة ر ة � �ع ب��ده �ب ار �ل ب��ا ه ��� ا�ا�م�ا �ة��ده ب����ة�ب���د ا �ب��ل�م�ا �ا ء ا ���� �م����ل��م �ب��� ب�� ��ل�� ��� ا �ل�� �ة�د ا � � او �����ةر� ح ب� ب�كة��� ة ة� ص ة ة� ة� م ة ب ا ةب � ب ب � �� � � ب � � �ة ا � � ب � ة ب �� � � ة ح��ا ��ل�� ��ا ��ل�� بد �� � ا ���ل�ب��ا � � � � ح � � � � � �ل � � � � � � ا ا ا � م ع � � م ك � � � س � �د � د � ل � � � � � � � � ك � ل � ل ك � ة� ة و رم و � او ��رم� �� ة ع ص ب ة بر ة ب � � � ب ا � � � �� ب � ب ا � ة ش ب ا �ب �م بص ب�ر�و ب� ح ب��ا �م بص ا � ك �س����د ��ة�� ا �ة� ���ةص �م� �و���ل�� ا �ة� �ط ارب�ل�ل��ص �وك�ة ��� �ل�� �م����� �ع���ر � �� � �م�ا د �ةك ب��ا ا �� ب ا د � �مب���ا � ش � �ب��ل�م�ا ���م� ا �� ��ةهب ����ل ب��ا ا ������طج�� �و�ب ش��� ب� �م�ا ء ا�ا�م�ا ��ل ���ا ب� ا ك� ع���رهة ا �ة�ا � ك� � �� � ر و � ر ر ر م ة وم ج ة � � � � ب ع �ة ة ب ب ب ّ �� �� � ���ب ا �ل ��ا � ا �� ا �������ا � ��ا �ب�� ������لة ا ������ � �م ب �م����ل� ��� ك�� ��ا � ���م�ا � ة� � ا �� ا �� ص �مة� �ل ل م �ة� ل ر ب ج ب ة �� ب� ب بج � و ربج ر � �م ة ةة ب ة ح�ة �ةل��ل�� ب ة � � ا � �� ��ا �� ب � �وة��ا ��ل �ا�م����ل��م ��ا �ب�� ة�� ة �ة ا � ةص ���ل�و�ك ب��ا �و�ل����م � ة� ب �س��ة��م �ة� ك��ل �مص ا �� ار �� ا �ل�د ب��بج ا �ة� ك�� �م �ة ��و�م ة� �� ب ة � � � ب ش جة ة ة ة � ة ب ب ب ة ة ش ا ا ا ا ا �م���ا �ب�ا ب��ا � ة � ب �سس���� �س���م�� ��م� �لة��� ا �ة� �م �� ك���ل �مص �ل�لك ا �ل��� ار �� �و����رب� ��ب��ة��د �ب��ر���ة� �ع�ة ��� � ب ً ة حة � ة ة ب � � � ب ة ب ب �ك�� ك� ���ا ب�� ة� ����ا �ب ��ة��ا. ����� ��� او ��ا ا �لة�ب��ا �و�ل���� ���ل�و�ك ب��ا �م ��س���ةص ��ة� � ب ة � �ب � �ل ب �ة ��� ا � � ب� � �بك � �م ب ا � � � � ب ا �� ��ةهب � ب ة �� �بر�ا �ب��د �و� �ة� م�دة �� طرب�ل�ل��ص ب���ة ر ��م ص ��د �ل�� �� �و� ��رك���ا � ���و�ة� �م� به �صو�ل �ع � ة � ب � ة ب � �ع ب��د ا �لب�ة���ك ا �ل��د �ة� �ه�و���م��ل�ك ���� �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل���ا ب���� � او �لب��ل��د �وك� ��ر �ع ب��ده ��م�ة��ا � ���ا � ا � ��هب�� ة� ة ب م � � �ب ا � � �ب ب � �ب� ا ب ���ا ب ا �ة�ا ب ا � � � � حص �وة�� � � � � � ا � � د �� � � � � � � � � م � �� ك ط � ب� حة��� � او �ل���ب�� ب� �ل��د �ل��ك �ه�و ا � ا �لب�ة��ك � ة ة ر �ة� �ة� ة م با ش ة �� ا �� � �ب �ب �ا � � � ا ب���ده �م��� ا �� �� ���ح���ل �ا �ب�ا � ة �ة�ا � �ع ب��ده �م�دهة ا ��ا � ب ���د �م�� � ة� ر ة ة� �س�� ةم ة �� �����را ه ��و ل�ة ر ر��� و ة� و م �ب����ا د �ب�� ��ب �ةل��ل�ك ا ��ل����ا � �� ب�� �ش��ح�د ���د �ب�ا �����ل�� ا ����د ا ده ا �� ا�ا� �ا � ة �س��ا ب �ب�ا �ة ب���ة �� � ة � ة� ةم ر ص �ة� م � � �� ة �وم � � ا� ب ة �� �� ا� ا ة ا ب حة � ب ا�ا� �ب �� ب ب ب � � �وا ب��� ة�م�ة�ر� او ا � ��ه�� �م بص ا �ل��ة�ا �م د ���ل �� ��ر ا�م�د ��و� ا �ة� ا�م� ���س�� � �ة� ةر�و� ��ر ��ة� � ب ش �ب ب ب � ��� ا ���د �ه� ا ��ل �ح��ل�� �ع ب��د �ب ار �ش���� ��مة��ده ���ر ���� د ��ل��ك ا �لة������ة�ر �و�ه�و �م���ل�ة ���� ا � ��� ار �� � ب ص �� �و ة ص ة� ة� ة� م � ة� � � ش ا � �ش ب ب ب ة ا ا ب � � ب� �و��� � ة���� �رة�� �وة�����لة��� �وةح��� ���ة� ا ����ب��ر ���ة� �ل�لك ا �ل����ده � او � �ع�هب�� ��� �ربج �و�� كة��� �مص ��� ك�� ��ل�� � �و�م�ا �م ب���. �ل م ً � � � ب ب ب �ة با ا ا ب ب � � � ة ب � ا ب ب � ا ��ة�را ���� �ل�� �عص �ب�ل�ده �و�عص �م�ل��� �� ب�� �ب�� �ب� ��� �م�� بر�ة� � ب�ول�ل�د ��� ��ط ارب�ل�ل��ص ا ����رب� � او ��� اب�ص �� �ة ب � ا� ب�� ة ة � ���ا �بر ��ب� �ةل��ل�ك ا ��لب��ل��د� . �� � حة�ب�ً�د �� �وا ب��� ة�م�ة�ر� او ا�م�د ��و� ��� ��لب��� ��لة��� � او ��ر ��و�م � او ���ل� ا ك ة ب � بب � ب ا� ا ة ب ب ب� ب �ص او ��ل�� �بر�ش���� �ة���ص ا�م� �� �س��ا � �ب�ا � ة ��م��ل�� ��ة� ���ر����ة� � او ���ده ا �ة� �م��ر�ل�� � او ��ر���دا �م�� �ب�ا � �ة�� ة � �ب � ب ب � � ب � ة � � �ب ��ل � � ��ب� � � ا ش�ل ا � � ب ��ة�� ب� � او �و���ا ه ب�كة��� ��� �ل� �و �ة� ا ���د ���وه �� ��ط�ة ر ��د �م ��ا �ل ا ������ل ا ح� وة��ة ر و ة�� ب� �وة � ��ر �� ب م � � � � � ش ة ة � �ك�� ة ب� ��ا ب� ة�����ا ب��ل ح� �و�ل�� ة ب� ���� �ب�ا ������ ����� �م بص ا �ل��د � �و�� � او�ام� ة � �س�� ��ط ار ة� ا�ا ك� ��� م���ل�ب���. � م ب ب ة ة ة� 120
120
٢٧،٥
٢٨،٥
٢٩،٥
Chapter Five
We brought our baggage down into the rowboat and went ashore, head-
5.27
ing for the house of the French consul in the city. His name was Lemaire, and he had a splendid house. We arrived as he was having lunch. When he saw my master, he leapt up to greet him most graciously and insisted that he join him for lunch. My master demurred, and told him the story of everything that had happened to us, from the moment we left Alexandria until our arrival in Tripoli. “We spent fifteen days without proper food,” he said. “And for ten of those days, we ate only dates and drank only brackish water.”77 When the consul heard this, he immediately ordered his cook to boil four fat chickens and prepare a broth, advising my master to have only chicken broth for a few days, until our throats had relaxed and our intestines opened up again. We spent eight days consuming only broth and Cypriot wine that had been aged seven years, until our strength returned and our throats returned to their former state. We began to tour Tripoli, with no need to worry about our own safety,
5.28
since the consul was in the good graces of the bey, the ruler of the city and the surrounding countryside. He was, in fact, like a brother to him. It seems that during his youth, the bey had been taken prisoner in Malta. A French cavalier bought him and took him to Marseille, where he began working as the cavalier’s servant. At some point, he became severely ill, and his master sent him to the hospital. One day, the consul khawājah Lemaire went to the hospital to visit the invalids, in keeping with the laudable custom of his people. As he passed by this particular prisoner, who was lying in a bed, he stopped to sit with him and chat. The consul comforted him, raising his spirits and encouraging him to be steadfast in the face of his adversity, for recovery would surely come. He asked him which country he was from, and who his people were. The prisoner replied that he was a Maghrebi from Tripoli, that he was from a good family, and that his relatives were among the country’s notables. Lemaire felt sorry for him, and ordered the director of the hospital to put the prisoner in a chair and carry him to his house, where he had his own servants prepare a bed and change the young man’s clothes, telling them to serve him just as they served their master. Lemaire sent for a doctor and engaged him to treat the prisoner as he saw fit, without sparing a single medicine or distillate, no matter the cost.
121
121
5.29
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
� � �� ا �� ��� ب ���دا � � او ��ل ���د �و� �م ب ا ��بل �س�ة��ا � ���� � ب��� �و�ه�و � بم ةص �م�ا � ب� ��ع ة� ��� �بكة�ة��� ا �لة��� ب��ا � ة � �ك ح��ة ة� ل ل ص م م م م � ب ب ���ا ب� �م����ة ��� .ا ب���ًا �ب�� ب�� �م ب ا �� ب��� ا ��ش � �ه� �م���ا �ب�ا و�ا ��ل �ع ب��� د ��ل��ك ا�ا��ر ب��ص ا ��ل ش����د �ة��د ا ��ل�� بد �ة� ك� � ةر � ص ص ر ص و و رة � ً ب ����مش � ا � ب ح�ب��د �ش � ب ب ����ل�� � ا � ة �س��ا ب� ب� �م ب��� � ح�ة� �ةر �و� �ع ب��د ا ����د ا ده .ا ب��ة�را � ار د ���ل م� ك ���ا �� .ة ً �س � ��ر ��� و ة ج �� ب � ا �ب ة ��ا ب ب � � ب ب ل � ب ب ش � ا ا ب �� ا ل� � �� �وا ب��� ة�م�ة�ر� او �ب� � ة �مك��ل �م���� ب �مة���ل �� �����را ه �مص ا ����د ا ده �و�ر�ل�� �ة� ��رك� ب� ك�� � �م���� ر ً �ش �� �� � �� ب � ا �� ة � ا ب � �ة ا ك� � ة � ����ل�� � او �و���ا ه ب�كة��� �ة��و�� ك� ���ة�ر.ا ب��ة�را �ود ��� ا �ة� �ط ارب�ل�ل��ص ا ���رب� � او �ع ��ط� �ل�ل�هب� ��ط� � ��ر� �و�� �و �� ة � � ب �ب ب �� � ة ��ر�� �ع ب��� � او�ا��رك�� ب� ����ا �ر �و�و����ل �ب�ا �ل����ل�� �م�� ا ��ة� �ل��ل�ك ا�ام�دة�ل ب���. � او �� � ب ب ب � ة ��ا ب ب � ة ة � ب ب � ا � ة �ة ا ةص ��� ب���دا �م�� ا �لب�ة���ك ا �ل��د �ة� ك� ���ا � ���و ب�� �ود ��ة� �ل��ل�ك ا �ل��ة�ا �م �وك�� � و �س��� �م �م�ده ��س��� ة ب � � � � ة � � ا �� � � � � ب ب � � ة � � � ا ة ا � � �ب ب �� �ب �ة � �� � �ه � ب د �ل�ك ا �لب�ة��ك � بر� لة�� �ل� ب���ل ح���ص ��د م�� �ل� �و �� م� �ة� �و��ة��� �� لة�� �و �ة� لة���و� ة � � � ح ة� � �� �س�ة��ا �م�� �و� ب �م�د �بر �لة���ل�ك ا ��لب��ل��د ا � ��ة� ��ه� � �س��ا ����� �س�ة��ا � �ة��د �بر���ا �ب�ا � ة � ح�م�� ب��ا � ة � ح���ص � ة ة ة �م ب � �ة ب ا �ة ب�� ة � ا ب �� � � ب�� � ب ب �� � � � ا ب م ��ا ب ة � � � � � � � ا م ح ه � � ص ا د � ح� � � � � � � � ل � � �� � � � � � � وة ب و �و ب �� ب � ب ة ك ر ص ر ص �وك�� ��� ك��ل ا �لب��ل�د � ة اً � ش اة ح�ب��د ا ��� ا ��ل��د � ��ل�� � ا ��ل��ل��د ا بل�ة��ب ��ا حب �صوه �ب� ك� ���ا ���ل طوه ��� � او �ع �� � ة� ����د �ة��د � بو�����د ك�� �م �ة ��و�م �م� �� .ة ً �ل و و ب م � �� �� ا � � � � ب ���ا �ام�ا ���و�� �ع� او �ة��د �ه� ا � ��ة��دة��م��. ا ��ط� �� ك م � � �ب �� بل�ة��ب ة ب ب ب ب � � ب ب ةب �ب �وا ب��� �ة���ر� او ا�ام�د ��و� ا حب �صوه �كب�� ��ر���� ��ط ارب�ل��ل��ص ا ����رب� �و ��ة� د �ل��ك ا � بر�م�ا � ��ا � �� ��ة� �ب�ا � �� ة ب اب ب �ب � شة ب ب ب � � ا ب �مص ��ة�ر ا ��� ة����ر�� �ب� � د ا ك ا �لة������ة�ر ا �ل��د �ة� ا �����را ه �مص ا ����د ا ده � او ������ل�� ا �ة� �ب�ل�ده ��� � �� � �ة ��ا � �ب � ا ا� ب�� �� بة � � ب�ل���ك �و�ة��و���� ا ��ل � �� ح� �ل�م� �و����ل ا�م�د ��و� ة���ر� او ا �ة� �م�دة�ل��� ��ط ب�رل�ل��ص � بو�����د ك�� �م �ة ��و�م �اج ح�ة� ة ة �� م � ب � � � ب ة ب ب ة � م��ا ���ب ب ا ا ا � ب ب ب � � � � � � � ��ر �ل�م� د ���ل ا �� �ع��ده �و�ا ء ه ا �لب�ة��ك �و�عر�� ������ �مص � ك� �ة���� ب�ل��ل ا �لب�ة��ك م���د ا د ا � ��ه�� � ص ة � � � ة �� ة � ا ب ب � � � ��ا ب� ب ا ح� ب�كة��� � او ���ر�م�� ��� �ة�� ا �ل� ���را � �ب ��ة ��و�ل�� �ل��ل �و��� �ب ��ة��� �و�ةكب���ل�� � او �����ةر� ��رة�ص ا ��ب� ب� د �ول�� �ب� � ����ل ب ً م � � ب ا� ة ب ا � � ب � � � �ل � ب ب���ل� ب �� �مب�� � �ا�م�ا ب� ب� �م ب � � � ا � � �ل � � � م � � � � ����ة� �م بص ا �لة�����ر �و مص ا�م�و� ا �ة�� ب � � � ب���ل ��� � او �ل�د ة بة ر ة و ر ة� و رج ص ب ب ب � � ب ب ب �� ب ةب ب ا � ب� ة � ة �� ارة�ل��� ا ������ل �م���� ب �مة�� ا �ل��دة�ص � او ������ةص ��ة� �ب� �ب�� �و��د �م��� �و���د ا ��ود ا ��را �م �ل�� �عص ��ة�ر ع ة �ب ��ا ب �ًا ���� � ب �� ش ��م ب ة ��را �ل��دة� بص ��ر� او �كب���ل�� �وك�� � د ا ة�م� ة �مة�� ا ��ة� ل����ده حب�ة��� �كة���. �ك ب��ا � ب ة ب ���د ا ا ��ل�� بد �� ���م�ه ب��ا �م ب �ب�ا �� ���ا د ة��� ب ��ر � او ��ل�� بد �ة� �اة�لة��� ةص �ع بص �ب��ر ����ل ب�لة���ك �و����ل �كب�� �و ص ص ة � ة ة ح ة � �ل�� بل� �ة �ب ة �ة ب ب �� ا�ا�م��ا �ك �ش���� ب�ع � حة� ب� �م بص � ������ �و��مب��� ح��� بص ا ب��ل�� ��� �و� �� او ب� ا � ������ة�ر �مص ����ل ك�� ر ب �� ار ة � � ب ا� � � ب �ب �ة�� � ا ا� ب � � ب حب � ا ����ة � ا � ب � ��مب �����ا �لة�صو��ة�� ��� �ودة ص �ة� للك �م�دة�ل�� �وك ���ا � ب�� ب� ب� ب� ب ة �� و� ح� � او �لة�����ره ا�م�و ب � ��� � ب ً ة ب � ب �ع � ة � بة � ��� ب � ب ���د �م ب ب���دا �م�� ل��� د ا ��م�ا � ا ��� �لةص ��� ا �بل ب ���ا � �م�ا ��ر � او � ���د ��� �ل��ل���� ار � او�ام����ا ��ةص �وك ا ��� �ب��ر ة و� ة و � �و� ص ة ع �ة ً �ب � � او �لب ���� ط�م�ا ة� ا �ل��د �ة� ا� �ة��د ��� ة�لب ��ة���ص ا �ب��د ا. م 122
122
٣٠،٥
٣١،٥
٣٢،٥
٣٣،٥
Chapter Five
The man remained at Lemaire’s home, attended by servants and the doctor
5.30
until his health returned and the severe illness that afflicted him had abated. Eventually, he rose from his bed in perfect health, thanked the consul, and asked his permission to return to his owner. Lemaire, however, decided to see his act of charity through to the end. So he bought him from his master and put him on a ship bound for Tripoli. He paid the captain for his passage and meals, and entrusted the man to his care. He bid him farewell and sent him off to Tripoli, where he arrived safely. The young man remained there for many years, serving the bey at the time.
5.31
Because of his excellent service, he became one of the bey’s close advisors, and was placed in a high-ranking position as governor of the lands under his rule. He governed righteously, and the whole country rejoiced in his rule and loved him dearly. Eventually, after a short illness, the bey died, whereupon the nobles and the generals chose his servant to be their bey, pledging allegiance to him in accordance with their ancient customs. It was around that time that khawājah Lemaire happened to be appointed
5.32
consul of Tripoli. He had no idea that the prisoner he’d bought and sent home had become a bey and assumed power. When Lemaire arrived in Tripoli, he went to meet with the bey after a few days, in keeping with the customary practice of consuls. When the bey recognized Lemaire, he rose from his seat, embraced him, and kissed him, doing him the greatest possible honor. “This man saved me from captivity and death,” he said to all the nobles present. “Honor him as you honor me!” When the consul left the palace, the bey had surrounded him with all the members of his court and his servants. He heaped more honors on Lemaire than he had on any previous consul, and always referred to him as “my brother,” for he loved him deeply. This is the story of the bey and the consul, which I heard from trustworthy sources. And I myself can testify to the many wonderful attributes of this blessed consul: his cordial manners, his modesty, and his love for the poor and the prisoners of that city. Just inside the door of his house was a room set aside for distributing alms to the poor and the wretched. He appointed one of his servants to stand there at all times, handing out bread and biscuits, which never ran out.
123
123
5.33
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
ب ع ��� ��ا ب � � ة � �� � ب ب �ب ب �وك� ���ا � د �و �عب��ا ده � ة�م�� �وك�� � ك� ���ل �لة���ل�� �كب���ل ا�ام ب��ا � ة ب��م� ا �و�ل�ده ا �لش��ل�� �ش�� ��ب��ة�� ةص � ب�و��� ة� م � ع ح��� ا ��ل��� ا � ��� ب � ��ب ة � ب��م�� ب � ���د� . ���ل� او �و�م�ا ة�لب��ة��ا ا � �ك حة�ب�ً�د ةص �م�ا لة �م ع ��دا �م�� ا �ة� ك��ة����س��� � �وة��د�ةر �و ب� � ة� م ة� و ة ّ � � � ب � ة � ب � ب �ل��د � ا ا ������ل� ه � ��ط��ل��� ا �����د �� � �����د ا �لة���ا ا ������ل� ه ك���� �مب ��� ة��م���� ا ��ة� �م ب��ا �مة��� � بو�����د � ة بو ةب و � و و ب ة و ل �م ب ًا �� ب ا ة ��ب � ��ا ب � � ب ة ا ب ��ل ب � � ا � � � � � � � � � � �م � ا ا � � �م � م ا ب م � ح � � � � � � �� �د � � �� � � � � ه � �� � � ة � د � � ل � � ك ���م ا � ����د ا ��ص �م���� �وك�� � و ة� رو ة � ةع ة �ل و ة ب ر � � �ب � ة ب ب � � � ة � � ش ا ���د ة��ا ة� �م ب ل�� ا �� �ب�ل�د �ه� �ل�� ك�� � ة ب� � � � حة���ل�� � ة�لب��د �ل ب� � ص ح��ده �ة� �م���� را � ا �لة����� ار �وةر���� � م ة م ا� شة � �� � ا �ة � � �ب � ب � �� ا��م������ � � ��ة���ل��. ���ا �ب�ا � ��� ب� ح�� � ة�� ��ر � ب�ل د ة ة ح��� �ل� ب���ل �م�����را ا �لة����� ار .ا��� ار د ك���ل ة �ب ا �ة ب� ة � � �م ب ا � �� ا � ب� ب �ب ��� ا � ا ا ب � �� � � � � � � ا ب �ةل�� � ا � � ا �ب � � ��� ة ��و ص �ل�ة� �وحص �ة� طر �ل�ل��ص ب�� �ب� ر ل�لب�ة��ك م ع ع بر� � لك �ل�� ��ة� ب م م �ب ة �� � ب ��� � ب ��� ا � �ش �� �ش �ة ا ا � �ب � � � ا ا ب ب �� ش ا � �ب�ا � ��رك� ب� ب�ل ب��د �ة� كب���ة ر ���س ب� �ة� ���� ���ل ب هة��د عص طرب�ل�ل��ص �ل � �ة� م �ة� ا �لب� ر � بو�م� � ب ً ا ��لب�ب��ا د ة��� د ا ة��م�ا �� بص �ر ب� �م� ا�ا�مب���ا ���� ب��ا ������ل ا ��ل�ة���ك ��م���م�ا �ة��ة ب� ح ب��د �ة� � او ��ر�ه� ة��م ب� � �ص او ب ب م ع ا� ا � �� � � � ا� � ب� � �� ��� � �� ا ب ة ��ب � ا� �� � ب � � � ا ا ا ا � ا � ك � � ك ا � ده � �� د � � ل� � � � ط م س � ة� ل�� � ل � ل � � � � ل � ب و و � ل ة م وو ��ب� ��ط� او ا���رك� ب� �و�م� �كة��� �مص ا�م� � ة و و ة رب ص ة� � � ة ة ب � ب ب ��و� �� او �����ا �ه ���ل�م�ا ا ������ ��ر ة����ر� او ا ��� �ع ب��ده � او ��س��م ب��� �ب�ا �ب�� �وه ا � ��هب�� ل�� � بو�����ده د �ع�ة� ا �� � لة�� ة ة م � � �� � � حة � ��سة ا �� ب �ة ا�ا�م � ب � �� �� �ودة� بص ��ب� ا �ل��� ك� �ود ��ة� ا�ا��رك� ب� �س���ل�� ��ة� ة ��و �� ر�� �و ب � �ةر�����ل ��رك� ب� �م بص ا�ا�� ار ك� ب� ا�ام�و ب�� ة � � ً � �ة � ا ب ا �ب � ا�ا� � ب ب � � �� ب ط او ب� � �و�ا �كة� ة� ا ب��ل ��ر���م���ا �و ��ط�ا ���. �وده ��ة� د �ل��ك ا�ا��رك� ب� ��ا ب��ا �ب�� ا � ��هب�� مو ب � حب�� �� � � � او ���� � بة ��ا ��ل �سب��� �م ب �ع ب��د ا ��ل����ك � ا ���� د �ع� ا �� �ع ب��ده � ا � � ب ة � � � ة ا � ب �و ��ب� ا ��ل و ب ة و � �ل ة� ة� ة� ص ��د �مص �ل�لك ا � ��هب�� ��ط��ةص ة � �ب � � ة � ا� ا ب � � � � �ب � � � � � � ا � � � � � �س��� �� ار ك ا�ا��ر� ��� �ة� ا �ل� ك �ود �س��ل�� � 1او ��ره �ب� �� ةر�وج �ل�د �ل�ك ا �ل���� ���ل �و�ة��و��س�� ب �مة�� ا�م�و ب � � ب ة م �� ة �� �ب � ب � اع �� ب ا� �� ب �� � �ب � ل�� � � � � � � � ا ا ا ا ا ا ح �س� ا � � � س � � � � � ل د � � ك � � � ط ط � � � ط ل�� � � � ة ل � � رب ص ة� �كة��� �مص �م� �ل �و و ب و و م و ب ة ب � م ة� ر و ص ب � � ّٰ � �� ب � ب ب � � ة ���د �ةل��ل�ك ا �ل���ا ب���� �و�ةكب���ل �و� �صو��ل�� ��ة� ا �لب��ا ��� بص ا لل� ب�لة���ل��� ك�ة ��� � ح��� �ك����ا �ر ا�ا��رك�� ب� �و�� � ب و � ة ا� � م � � �� �� �ب ب� ا � � ا ب� � � ا ا ا ��� ب � � � ب �ب ب � � � ا ب � � � ا � � ا � ك � �م � ع��س��ر ا �لب�ة��ك � ك ���ا � �و����ل � � ل�ص ك� ��و ���ل ��رك ب� ر � عو ب ة� م� ة�� م� ���د ه�ب� ر �ل� � � ع � � ة ة �ة ب � ب ب ب � � ب ة � ا �ل��د �ة� ك� ا ���ه ب�ب��ر ك� ���ا � �م�ل�� � �م بص ا � ����م ���ا ة� ���ل�م�ا �مك���ل �و��م���� �� ���ا � �� او �و��م� ��وه �م بص ا �ل� ب� ���د � او ج � ة �ب�ل��د ا �لب�ب��د �كة���. ةة ب � ب � ب � �� � �� ���ا �ب�� او �م����ا �ب � ب ��ب� ا ��بل� �و�ا�م�ا ك� �ر�ب��د �ة� ا�ا��رك� ب� �ود ���ل ا�ام�ا ء �كة��� ا �ة� ا �ب�� � �����ل � او ش���ر�� ا�ا��رك� ب� رةص ة � �ة � ب ة � ��ا ب ا� �� ة � ب � �بً�ا ��ل��ل�� ا� ب ا ��� ا ��ب�� �ة�� . حة�ب�ً�د ا � ��هب� ��ط�ا � ��� ���د ا �لب��ر �وك�� � ا���رك� ب� �ر��ة ب� ا �ة� �بر ا�م��� ��ب�� �و��و ة ة� ر ب � ب � ا ب � ب � ب ً بة � �� ب ب ة ب ة � �� ة����ر�� ا�ا��رك� ب� �و�ة���ر��� او ��ص ا ة�� ���ا ���رك ا�ا��رك� ب� �ة��� ش��س ب� ��ة� ا �ر�م��ل � او �رب � �وا �م� �كة��� �ل��لب��ر أ 1ال��ص�ل :ال� ��س ك� ��ل.
124
124
٣٤،٥
٣٥،٥
٣٦،٥
٣٧،٥
Chapter Five
He was very pious. Each night, before going to sleep, he would gather in his
5.34
chapel his three children—two boys and a girl—and all his servants. He would turn to face them as we waited for everyone to arrive. They would then say their prayers and the Litany of the Virgin. After all the prayers were complete, each person would go to his bed, and the consul would follow them to his own bed. Similarly, all would attend mass with him early in the morning. The consul made a great effort to buy back prisoners and send them home to their countries, using the alms he received from Christian countries for this purpose. In short, he devoted his whole life to virtuous acts. One day, while we were in Tripoli, the bey received news from the Bed-
5.35
ouins that a large Venetian ship had run aground on the shore, three days’ journey from Tripoli by land. The Venetians were always at war with the Maghrebis, so the bey sent five hundred soldiers on the march to seize the ship and all its property, and to bring the passengers to Tripoli to be imprisoned. He summoned his “brother,” the consul Lemaire, and asked him to send a vessel from the harbor to load up the goods carried by the Venetian ship, along with the cannons and the munitions. The consul acceded immediately to his request. He left the bey and sent for a captain whose ship was moored in the harbor,
5.36
ordering him to sail to that spot and load up everything on board the Venetian ship—money, cannons, and people—and bring it all back to Tripoli harbor. This, at least, was the apparent nature of the consul’s order; God only knows what he secretly told him to do! The ship sailed, headed for the Maghreb, and the bey’s soldiers arrived first. In the meantime, however, those on the Venetian ship had emptied the vessel of all that was on board, except for the contents of the hold. It was full of wheat, which they’d loaded in the Province of the Islands78 before sailing for Venice. While they were on their way, however, the ship began to take on water. It grew so heavy that it began listing dangerously, so the captain made for land. They happened to be near the North African coast. Afraid the ship would sink, the captain ran it aground on the sand. They unloaded everything on board except for the wheat and left the ship stricken at sea. Meanwhile, the bey’s
125
125
5.37
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
� � �� ب� ة ا ب �ب ا ��ل� ا �� ��ة�� �� � ب � ب�ك � ا � ب ً ب ب � � ة � �وة�ر ��� او ا�ا��رك� ب� عر�� � �ة� ب�ر �و م ���ا �و ��ة� د �ل��ك ا � ��و�ك ة� �و����ل � � � ا ل�د ة� ة�� ة�� ع��س��ر ج � ب ا ��ل����ك � ط�� ح���ة ا ب��� �م بص ا ب��� � او ة� ا ��ل����ك �ب ار د � او �ة ب� ����ب� ���ط�و��ه �و��م��س�� ��و��ه �م�����ك ا �لة��د ��م�ا �����ل���وا �ب بة بة م ة م � ا� �ب �� � � ��ا ��ل د ا � ا ���ل��� ا ������ط� ا � � ا ��لة��به ب���ك �ب�ه ب ��� �ه� � �ب � ا ���ا ��� ب �م ب ل � ع��س��ر ا���رك ب� �و �ة� ا � � �و ة� م و ب و � � و م و رو �ب ةص ص � ب ا �م�ا � ا�ام�د ا ��� . م ع ا� �� ا� ب � �ة � ا ب � � ب �ة ��� � ب � ب ا ا ب � � � � � � ل � � ا ا � � � ك ا � � � � � ا م � ك � � � � �� ه � � � � � � � ل � � � � � � � �� �� �� � � � � م ط م ل ا ة� ةص و �ل ر ب� ر �ل ص � ر ربل�ل��ص � ة� و ربج ب�ط � ب ر � � ا� �� ا� ب �� � ا ء ��ا �ب��� �م�ا ��� ���د � ا ������ل��� ا ا �ب �ب�ع��س�� � ب ة ش ا � او �لة��صة� �م� � � حة��ً�د ����� �و� ع��س��ر ا���رك� ب� ا�م�د ��و� و� ب � م ب ةرة و ة و �م ة ع �� ب� ب ا � � �ة �� ا ب ة � ب ��� ا ��ل�ب��د ��ة � �ة�ا ��ل ����� ا �ب�ا �� ����� �م ب �ةك��� �ةكب � ك � � �� � �كب� ��ط�ا � ا �� �ر���� �و ة� م� كب��ط� � � و � � ب ر ل ص بل ر ر ب ة م ع ا �ب �� ا �� ب��� �ب����ا � ��� ا ��ل�� بد �� �ه� � �كةة���د ��ب �م�د �ل ب���ة ���ط ا �ل��ل�� � ا �� ��ب ��ا ب� ا � �� �سة ب� � �م ب � � � ك � �م � � � � � � � م � ة و و ة ً ة� ة رب ص و رة� ب و � ةع ة� رب م ص ر وة ب ةا � � ب � � ا� ب ة � � ب ب � �ب �س� � ��� ا �� ��ط ا �ل��ل�� � ح��س� ا �� ا �ل����ك � او � ��ه�� � � ب ر بة ��ر .حة��ً�د �� � �� او �ل� حص �م� ل � او � او د �م � او ��ة� كة� م ة رب ص ب ا �م ب�� � ب ب ب � ب � � ب ا ا ب ب ا ب� ة �ب ب ���د ا ا ��ل�� �م ب ا ب� ����ل��� ا �ب �ب�ع ب �م� ���ل�� ا � ��ع ��س��ا. ��س��ا �ل��لة�����را ��ة ر �ل�� �ب� �ل�� �م�و� � ر � ب ص ة م م ا � ب ًا � � ب �ب �ل ا ا ا �� �ة �� ا ب ا ب �� � �� � � ا �� � �ة � � � � � � � � ل ء ه ه � � � �د � � ا � � � � � � ه � � م � ل �� ل � ع��س� ع��س� � � � ط � � � � � � ل ل � � ك � � � � ة� م و و ة � �م� � ب ب ر ر بة ب � �� � � ب � ��� �م�ا �لة��� ب � ب ل�� ��ط�ا �ع� ��� � او �ب�ا بل�ب�� ح ب��د �ة� �م�ا ���د ا ا �بل� حة�ب�ً�د ة��� ������ � ا�ا��رك� ةص ب� � �ر�� � او �رك� حة� �� ة � � �مص �ه�و�ل� �ة� و ب ة ة ب ة م م � ا ب ب� � � � ب �ة � ش � ب �ة� �� ب ب� �� � ��ا ب� ا بد ا � ����ل ب��ا ط ���ط ا ��ا � � � ا � ��ة ��و� �و����� �ر كة� �� ا � � � � � ح � � � ��� دل ط و � ا �ة� ا �لب���د كة�� ب رط � �وة� �و ة ة م ب م ب م ة ��ل��ل�ب��د �ةك��� ��ا ��ل����ل�� �م�� � ���� �ب �م ب ا �� ب��� �ب����ا � ��� ��ل��ل�� � �����ل� ا ��ا ب���د � �ب � ��ب��ة��ة���� ا �مب�� � �ة�ا ب�ل�ً�ا و ة� ص ر وة ة ةر و ة و ة� وة و ة� و ة ب ة ب ة � � ب � � � � ب ب ة ش �� ���م�� � ك���� ا �ل�� � � �ة ا اة ا ا �ة��ة� �ب � � �س���� �ب�ا �ل��د �ة� ة�م� او �ة� م�ة����س��ة� ا ��ة� ا�م�م� � �� ب�� ب� ��وه ���ة� ا � �� ��و� ���ة� ك��ل و ب �و و ة � � اش � با ب ���ط��ل��� �مب ��� ا ��ل�� بد �ة� �ه�و ��رك� ���ا ب� ���و ب�� �ب ب � � ا � ��� �وك� �� ب� ا �لب� ك� ��م� ���لة���ك �� ��ص ا �م� �ل��ل �و�م � � ب �ود �ة� د �ل�ك ا���رك ب م ا � �ة ا �� ب � ا ش � ب � � � ب ا�ا� ة�ة ب � � � �� � ب �� � ع��س��ر �و�م� ة���سب�� د �ل�ك مص م���د �م��ةص �ل�ل�د �و�ل� . ���� �هة�� �وكب�� �ط��ةص � � �� او �ل�ة�ر�ة�� ا ع��ة� � ب �ة � ب � ب ب� � ة ب ا ا� ب � � �ب��ل�م�ا ة�� ا ��ل���� ����ب ��و� ا �ة� �ع ب��د ��� �و ��ة� د �ل��ك ا ���و�ك ة� د �ع ب� ا � ��هب� ��ط�ا � ا�ا��ر�����ل �م�د � م ر بة � م ة ب� � ب � ة ً � � � � ب � � �� ع��س�� �ر ا�ا��ر��س�و�ل �م بص �ع ب��د ا �لب�ة���ك �و �� ��ا �ة��د د �ل��ك ا ��� � �� ب� ��ا ��طر�ه� ��ا �ة�ل�� ����� �ب�ا � ا ����ل ا�ا��رك� ب� ة م م � � �ب � ب� � ب��م����� ���ا � ا ���ط�ا ������ ب ��ل�� ب� �م�ا ����� �سه � �م ب ا ��ا � ع��س�� ح �د � � . � � دل � او ��� � �� د �ل��ك ة ً �ب و � ة � � � � ة ب ة ة ص ةص ر م م ا� � ب ا ب � � � � ب � ا ب م ة � ع � �ب � ب ا �� � ب � ب ا �ة ا ا ��ل�� ب��� �و ب��مة�� ا ب��ل � � � � � � ا ا ا ا � � � �م � ا � �� م ب � � � ل � � � � د د د د م � � � � � � � � � � � ل ل � � � � م � و و و ر ل�ك �ل ب � ة �و � ح �صو ة ص � ة� ة و و ب � ب ع ��ا ب ع �ب ا� ��� ا ��ل�ب��د ��ة �ب��ل�م�ا � �ك���ل� او ا ����و��س�ة ا ��ر��ل��ل�ةهب� ���ط�ا ب� �ب�ا �ب�� �ة�� بر�ل ��� ��ركب� ا ����� ب��مة�� ك �� � ك�� � ���و ب�� م � � �ود �ة� � ر ب ب ة ة ب � �ع � �� ح ب � ا �� � ب � ب � ب � � ب ب ��ا ب � ��� �م�ا ���د ا ا�ا�م�ا �لة��� ب ب ب �� ا � ةص ب� ��د ة� ل�دة ص ك ���ا ��� او ��ة� ا�ا��رك� ب� ة ا �ل�� او د �م ا �ل�دة�ص ك�� ��� او د ���ل د �ل�ك ا���رك ب ب ب �ة � ب ب� � �ب �ك�� ا ��ره د �ل��ك ا �ل����. ��������ل ا � ��هب� ��ط�ا � �م 126
126
٣٨،٥
٣٩،٥
٤٠،٥
Chapter Five
soldiers arrived, led by of one of his commanders. They tried to seize the Venetians, but the ship’s guards wouldn’t surrender. Instead, they turned their cannons and rifles on the bey’s men, putting them to flight. Soon after, the ship sent by the consul of Tripoli arrived. Its captain
5.38
dropped anchor and went ashore to meet with the soldiers from the Venetian ship. It soon became clear to him that they weren’t willing to surrender. “I’ve been sent on behalf of the French consul in Tripoli,” he told the captain of the Venetian ship. “I have orders from the bey and the consul to transfer all the goods and people on your ship to my own, and to bring you to Tripoli.” “We won’t be taken prisoner,” they replied. “We’d rather die here than surrender.” The captain recognized that neither he nor the bey’s soldiers had enough
5.39
men to subdue them, as the Venetian ship had two hundred soldiers in addition to its sailors and passengers. “If you do what I say, I can save you from these people,” the captain urged. “I’ll take you back to Venice, on the following conditions. You must swear to me, in writing, that if we reach Venice safely, you’ll protect me from the French. I don’t want them coming after me to take revenge. Also, you’ll have to provide for my livelihood until I die.” They immediately agreed and wrote out a contract, guaranteeing his demands. You see, the ship was a vessel of the Venetian Republic, and there were important people on board, including some cavaliers, by which I mean spahis, along with some army officers and other similar high-ranking officials.79 After settling matters with the Venetians, the captain went to find the commander of the bey’s soldiers, and reassured him that the ship’s passengers and soldiers had surrendered, as they had no means of escape. The commander and his soldiers returned to the scene, and the commander ordered them to load the Venetian ship’s goods onto the bey’s ship. When all was complete, he told the captain to transfer the Venetian passengers to his ship, with the exception of the two hundred soldiers. The captain obeyed.
127
127
5.40
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
ب ً ّ � ا ��بل ة ة �ة � � ا� � �ب ��م�� ا �ة ���ا �ب� ا �م���� ��ا �ب ب ا ب ب ب ة � � � � � � � � � � � � ا ا � �ل ل � ا ح ح �د �د � � � د � � � ل � � � � � ل ك � � م م � ب � �م ة �و �و ك ة ةص ب ة� ا ��ة�را ا ��ر ا �ة� ة ب ة� ة ص �و � �ب ب ب ب � �� � � �ة �ه ا � ا � ا �� � �ل ب �ة ��� ا � � ��� ب �ه � ب ة ا �ل�دة�ص ك� ��ره �صو � ����ح� ���ا � �� او ��ة� ا�ا��رك� ب� وة��س�و ��و � م� س��� ة� م�دة �� طرب�ل�ل��ص وة �ر� � م م م ة ا� ب � ب � � � ا �� � � �����د � ا ا ���ط�� �ة ��� �ب ار د ا �ب�� �ة�ب� بر��ل ��ب� ا�ا��رك� �� ب� ا � ب��� �رب����ا �و�ة� ا�م�د �� �و� ��مب����� ا � ��ةهب� ���ط�ا ب� �ب ��ة ��و��ل�� لب�ة��ك بو م� ل � ة م � ب ب � ا� ا ب� ب ب ا �� � ب � � � ب ب� ا �ب � � � ة � � ب �ً� �� �ودة�ص �م�ه�� ل�ل�ه�ب��ر �ل��ة� ب�� � �لة��ل� ة ���رد � او 1 �ل�� ا د �ع��ة� ا �و �ل� ا ��وج� ا ��ة� ا�ا��رك� ب� � او �ر�ل ا�م� � ً � ب � ب � ة � ���لة�ب��ا ��ة� ا �ل��د � ب� .ا ب��ة�را �بر�����ل ا � ��ة��ا �ة��ة� �ة�ا ب���د ك �م� ب��م��ل�� ب���دا �م��ك �ل�� �ة� � � برة��د ا ة���ة� �ل��ك �ع � � � �� ��ا ب �ب� � ب ب ���د ا ب� �� ح� �م�� م��ا ب� �ل���ة��ة� ب� ش����ا �ب��ك �بر ب���� د ��ل��ك ا �ل�� ب��� � او �ب� ���ط��ل�ة� ا � ��ةهب� ���ط�ا ب� ا ��� ��ركب���� �وك�� � ���ل�� � ك� ة ة � � ا �ة � � �ب � � ��ر �ب�ا ب���د ا �ل���� �و ب��م�ا �عة��� �م���� �ل��لة�����ر. � � ��هب�� �لة��ل� �ة����ة�ر ���و�م �م بص ا �لب�ة���ك ��� �ة ب���ل�م�ا � ��� ا �� ��ةه� ���ط�ا ب� ا ��� ا�ا � ��� ��ا �ب���� ة����� حب �ص او ا�ا��� ا ����� �م ب ا ��بل� ��ا ��ل ا �� ا ��بل� ��� �ب���ب ا ��ل � � ك � �� ة� و �ل ب ب ر ة ص ر ر ر ر ب � ة م ة ���� ا ب���ة ا� �� � �ب ة ة � � ا� � ب ب ة ا � �و�����ده ة����� �س��� � � �وا حب �صو��� �و�� حب �ص او ��ر���ة��� ا �لب��را �لة��� ��ل�م� �و����ل ا���رك� ب� ا �ة� ��و�� �ل�لك ا���ر� ة ب � � � ب � ا� ب�� ا ب ا� ا �ب �ب ة ا � � ��� ����ا �ب �ب�ا �ة� � � ل � ا حة�ب�ً�د ��� ا�ام��ل���و ب� �ب�ا ��ل��ة بر� � ا ا ا ا � � � � � ء ر ��ل�وع���م و���� رو � �م� � �ل��� م�د �و� ب� � ��رك ب ة� م � � ب � � �� � ب ب اب بد ��ل��ك ا ���� �كة ة� ��ا �ب�� �ةل���ل�ة ا ة ���م ا ��ة� ��ط ارب�ل��ل��ص � او �م�ا د �ل��ك ا�ا��رك� ب� ا � ��� �ر����ا �و�ة� �� ب��م� �ع��� �وة����� �ر�م� � و ب � ة ة � � �ل� �ب �� ا� ب�� ب ب� ا � ب � � ة � ب � ط � �� � �ة�� ب��� ا ��� ا �ل���د �كة��� � ا�ام�د �� ح��� �ل�لك ا ب �م� ��� ا�م�د ��و�ة�ص �و ب�� ه� �مص ا �لة�����ر. ب و و ب ة م ط�� ة ة � � �ب� � � � � ا�ا�م�ا �لة��� ب ��ا ةص ب� ح ب��د �ة� ا ��لب�ب��ا د ة��� ح��� �ل��ل�ك ا ��� � ع��س��ر و ة � بو�����د ك�� �م �ة ��و�م �و����ل ا �ل��� ا �ة� ��ط ارب�ل��ل��ص�� ب ا ب � � � ب ا ب �ة � ب � �ب ب� � ا ��ل�� بد �� ا � ة � ا� ب ب �س�ة�����ر��ه �و��� � د �ل�ك ا �ل ��� � �م��� ربج �ع ���ة�� �ة� د � � ة �و�����م ا �ة� ا�م�دة�ل��� �و��ص م ب م ة �ة ب ا �� �ب ا �ب � � ة ب ب ب ا ا ا � � � ل � � � � ��ر� او ا �م� �م�� ����� � �� � ٢س� ��ره ا �لب�ة��ك �ل�م� ح� �صوه� ����ح� ��� � �� �� �� ح�� �ل � ا �ع � � ر ة� ب � �م و و ةص ب ب � و ر م ة � � ب ة � � ة � ب �� �ل�� ب��م�ا ���م���� �م بص د �ل��ك ا �ل�� ب��� ا�ا��ر��س�و�ل �م بص �كب���ل�� ��ر ا ���ة� �ع ب��ده � او � �� � او ������ل ��د �ع�ة� ا � ��هب� ح� � ة � ب با � �� ب ب � ة � ا ب ة ا ب � اب ب ا ب � � �ب ا ��م� �وك�ة ��� ا � ا � ��هب� ��ط� � ا �ب ���� ه ��ة� ا �لب��ر �و���� �ر � او �ة� ا �ل�� �م� �و����ل ا �ة� �ع��د �� ا ������ل�� ���� �ر �كة� ��م ة ة ب� � ة � ب اةب � ب � � �ةة �ب لة�� ����� �� �� ��ا ب� ا �ل����ر�� � ��و ب� �ع ب��د ك ح� ��� ا ل ك� ا �ة� �ب�ل��د ��ه �و���ل� �����د ا �ل�ك���ل ����ل �م�ة�ل���ةص ل�ص م م م ب � � ا ا��م ة ا �� ة ب ب ا ��ب ة ب � ة ا� � � ب ب �ب ��� ا �� ب��� �ب����ا � � ح ب��د � �� ا � ه� � � � � � � � � ا � ا ك ح��� ��� ب��ة����� � ك � � د � �� ل ل���� � � ��ب� ���� ا� ر ب ر وة ة ص ة� ب ة� �ة� ر م و��و م ب ة � �س�� � ا �� � ب � ا � � � ب � � � ا �ل��� ك� ةرة��د ��ة� د �ل��ك ا�ا��رك�� ب�. ��ل� �ة� ��ةص م� ب �ة ب ا� اب ة ب ةا ب � � با ب ��ر�م بص ا ��لب�ة���ك د ��ل��ك ا �� ك� ���ل�م�ا ���م� ا � ��هب�� ل��ل� �م �� ��و�ة� ����ة� �� �ل�� �ب� ��� ���و�ة� ا �ع�� ��ص �مص ع ب ب ب ب ب � � � ��ا ب� �ه� � ���د ا ا �� ب������� ا ب ط�� � � ل ك ح�م � �و���ا � �ة�ا ���د ��ا ��طر ا �لب�ة���ك �و�ة����د �ة� �ع ب� ��ب��� � او �و���ده ��ة� ل و ة ب ج � �� � �ب � ب�ك���ل ب ��ة� ا ��� �����ل���ط�ا ب� �ب �ب����ا ��ا �ب�� �ةر����� �م ب �ةك���ل�� ا �ةل�� ل � �و ا�ا��رك�� ب� ا �لة��� � او ��� ب�لة� ك � س � � � ل ص ب ب �ة� ة ر � م ة� �� ب ة� ر ب �ب � أ ف يي ح�ف��� ا ا�م�ا �م�ه» ف� ا �ل���ا � ش م��س. 1ال��ص�ل :ي��م�م���مرد وا��« ٢ .ل�ص�ا � رو يى �
128
128
٤١،٥
٤٢،٥
٤٣،٥
٤٤،٥
Chapter Five
The commander ordered his five hundred soldiers to shackle the two hun-
5.41
dred, and march them to Tripoli to be paraded before the bey. After sending them off, the commander tried to board the French ship but the captain stopped him. “Let me go and put the passengers in the hold first, as I’m worried that they’ll raise a mutiny against us while we’re at sea,” the captain said. “Once I’ve prepared a decent room for you, I’ll send the dinghy back for you and your servants.” The commander agreed, and the captain hurried off to his ship. This was a wise move on the captain’s part; he did it so the bey wouldn’t blame the consul for the capture of the commander and his coterie. When the captain arrived at the ship, he quickly ordered the sailors to
5.42
weigh anchor and pull the ship to the outer mooring. Finally, they were able to unfurl their sails and head out to sea. As he watched the ship sail away, the commander suddenly realized he’d been tricked! He was forced to chase after his soldiers and make the journey with them back to Tripoli. As for the French ship, it sailed for Venice carrying all of those passengers, saving them from captivity. After a few days, the commander arrived in Tripoli with the two hundred
5.43
Venetian prisoners. They made quite a spectacle as they entered the city, all bound in ropes. They were paraded before His Excellency the bey, who had them imprisoned. He then sent for the consul and told him what he’d heard from his commander, about how the captain had left him behind and sailed off. “He still hasn’t come back to Tripoli,” the bey said to the consul. “Do you think he took them back to their country? Believe you me, if that’s what happened, I’ll kill every last one of these two hundred soldiers! And if it weren’t for my friendship with you, I’d sequester every French ship in my harbor until my own ship was returned to me!” At this, the consul made a show of insisting that he too would be furious if that were the case, and set about trying to placate the bey. He promised that the ship would return, adding that he’d write to the king of France asking him to dispatch some envoys who’d be responsible for bringing the ship back to Tripoli. The consul also beseeched the bey, for the sake of their own friendship, to free the prisoners without harming them, for they’d done nothing
129
129
5.44
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
� ا �� � �ا ب بً ة اب ��ة � ط�� � ة �ة ب � �و ا�ا��رك� �� ب� ا بل ك� ح�م � ب�� ح��� ا � ��ة� ب��ة�� � � .ا ��ة�را � ��و�����ل ا �لة��� �ب� م ب ���م �ب� ��� �ة� ��ط� �ل� �� � ����ل ا ��ر ة � � ج ب � ب ب � � ا �� � � � ب � �ب ب �� ب � � � �ة � ب ة��� �ل� � �م�ا ����� د�� ب� ا �ل� � �و�ة�ص �و�ل� �ة� ��ة� ��ل� د�� ب� �ل� �و�لة���ك ا �ل��دة� بص ا �عة�� ب � ا�م���ب�� ��� او ا � ��هب� ��ط�ا � ب � ة� � � ب ��ا ب �ة � ةم ب ب ب ب � �م � ب � ب � ب ب � � � ا � � � � � ��ة� ا ���ه� ب� �و���د ا ك�� � �ل�� ا � ار � �مص د �ل�ك ا �ل��� ا �ل�د ة� م �� ���د �� ب �م�� �ل�ل ا �� ا د � � ب � ة �ل ةع ك �ل و م ة � �ج �ة � ب � �� � ة ��ل��ل��رك� ح�ة� ��� �و �� او ����� ا � ��هب� ��ط�ا � �و ب��م�ا �عة��� � او ��س�م��ل��� او ا�ا��رك�� ب�. � ب ة ة ة �ة ة ا ب ب �ل ا �� � �� �� � � ب ا �� ��ةهب ة ��� ا ��ل�� ب د��� ��ل�ل�� ب��� � ا �ب�ا � � � � � ا � � �� �م� �م� ك � م � ك � � � � ���د � ك � � �� ل و ع ا �لب�ة���ك �ل ل م ص � ر � � ة �ة� ل ب ا��م��� ب ب �� اً �ب � ب ة �ة ب � �ب ��ل ا � ا ب � � ة ة � � ا� ا ة ب ح ب��د �� ب� ��س�و� ب����حم�ه �م�� �و �ة� ا � �و�ة�ص ا ��را �م� �� �� �ل ا ��ر �ب� � �ة����ط�ل� �� او �ل�لك ا�م�ة�ل���ةص ب� ة م � ب �ه ا � ا �م �ب��ل ا ا � ب �ه �ة � �ب �ح�ا ���ط ا ب�� ا �عب�� ا �� ��ةهب ��ل � ل�� ا �ب�ا �ع�بعة� ة� �عب� �� ح ح � � � � � � � � �� � � �� �� م م � � � � � ة و و � � � و � ر ر ر ر ة ة ة م م م �ة م �� �� �ةك���ل� ا ا ��ا د ��� � ا �س ب �ص ا �����ل�� � � �����د �م�ا ا ب�لة�ه ا ��ل���� �ب�� ب�� ا � ��هب ب ا � ب �ة ب � �� � � � �ل� ب���ل �� ��طرا ��ة� ا � ��ه�� ر ب و ة ة و و ب م بو ر � �ة� ر � ص ب � ة � ب ��ب ش ب � �ر �� ب����ل ا ��لب�ة���ك �و�س���� ا �ة� ب��ة����� � او � �� � �� عوه �م بص ا �و�����ا. �و��س � �ة��ة�ر ك�� ة� ��ا ب� ��ر����ل د � � ة ً � � ب ة ب ة ا� ا ��ا ب ح���ة ��� �ل��� ��ل��ل�ةهب�� ا� ب�� � � او � ���ا ب� ح��� او �ل ب��ا ا �ة� ب� �حب��ر �ع بص �م ب �ل ب ة ك ��ر ا�م�د ��و� �ه�و ا ��� ا � �� ��� �م� ك�� � �� او ب � � ب ب ب �ب � �ل ��ة� � ب �� � �� ار ك� �� ب� بل ك� ���د ��� او ��ة� �م����ة�ر�ه� �س� او ���� او �ة��د �ه� ��� ���لة���ك ��ط ارب�ل��ل��ص ا ����رب� د ا�ةرة� بص ��ة� ا �بل�ر ب ة ر � م م � بً ة ة ���ل � � ب ب �بة �� � ا ��رك� ب� بل ك� ة��ك ب ح �ص او ��ة� ك ب�س���وه �ود ا �ة�� ��وه .ا ��ة�را ��د �� او ���لة��� � او ���ر�وه �و ب�� � او �ب�� ا ��ة� ا� ب � ب � ة �ب ا �� � ��� ��ب� ا�ا�م�ب��ا � حة�ب�ً�د ا ب�ب��ر� او ا �لب�ة���ك ��ة� ا حة��ده �ط ارب�ل�ل��ص ا ����رب� � بو�����د �م� ��� �س او ا��� ار ك� ب ة ة � � � ب� ا�ا��رك�� ب� ا�ام�د ���و�. � � � ة ب ة ب � �� �ب�ا �� ا ��ل����ك ��ا ب� ة� حب� ��ر� او �ل��ل�ك ا �ر ب��ا �ل ا�ام�و ب�� �ودة� بص ��ة� ا�ا��رك� ب� ا �م�ا �م�� ���ل�م�ا ا � �� او �ب���م� ر بة ب � ا �ة ة � � ��ا �ب ا ب �ب � ب � ا ة � ب ب ا �ة ب� �� � � � � ب � � ل ا �عب�� ��ا �� ��ةهب� ���ط�ا ب� � او بل ح �صود � او ب � � � �رة�� � �وب� كة�� ا �رك�ة�ب��� �وك�� ��و ة�ل �صو� عص م�ة�ل��ةص �� ��ر ص ا �لب�ة��ك ة� ب ب ب � ب ح��� ب ا ����ص ه �� ا�ا�مب��ب �� ��ل��� ���ل��� ا �م�ا ا �ة � ش � ب ب� ��� ��ل� � � �ك�� � ا ء ���� � ر ةج ة ��د��ة� ا �ل���ص ص �و� ب �ه�ة� �ة� �م ر ب ة � م م � ا �لب��ع�م�� � او �ل�����ة ش����ا � ب��ش��ة��ا ب� �ب�ا ب�ره �وك� ���ا ب� ����ل ب��ل�� � اب� بص ا �م�ة�ر �م بص ا �� ار ة� � �و�مة��� ا ������ل�� م م بب ب ب � � ب � ة � ا ��ل��ده � ة ب ح�ة� �ةر�و� �ع�مة��� ��ة� �ب�ل��د �م���ة�� ب��ا �ةو�لة���ره ��ة� �م����ة�ره ا ��ة� �ع ب��د���ا ��م�ا �ل ���ل ب� ا �لب�ة���ك و ا �� � �ة� ة ��م ة � �ب ا � ش ا � ب ا ا ا� �ة ا �� ا ب ة � � ا �� � ا ب � ا � �ة � ا ب لة�� �و�و�ع� حب��� �ة� ح���� ه ب����د �م��د � ا �ة� � � بر� لة�� �و ����� �و ��ر ا �ل� ر ب �م� � ب �ب ب حب � ب��� � �ع��� � ��ة �� ��ل�� ��ل�� ��ل�� ة ب �� هة ا ��ل���� ح���ك � �و��ر���د ة ب� حب� ��ل�� ب� � � � � �ب�ا � ة� � � �����ل�ك ك ��س��ص ��و و� ب ب و ب ر ة ب بة ة ة ب ح�ة�� ب� ���لب���. ا ب�ل��� �و� ب � � � � � �و� �� �ب ا ��ب���ل�� � �م�ا ك� �� �ب��ل�م�ا �ا ء ا ��لب�ة���ك �ب�ا ب� ا ��ب���ل�� � �م�ا ب�لة���ة����ل�� �و� ب �ر��د ا �لب� ك� ���ا ب� �ة���ة����ل�� ب�ل��ل ة�لب� �� ��ا ء � ل�ص ةة ة م م � ب ب � ب �ب�� ب��ا ������ل�� ا ��� �ع ب��د � �م�� � ��ا ��ل��ة ا�م ةر ه ب�لة���ل�ك ا ��ل ��م�ا ة��د � � ا ح�ة� �ة�ا ���س�وه �وة������ل�وه � بو�����ده � ر ر ة ة 130
130
٤٥،٥
٤٦،٥
٤٧،٥
٤٨،٥
Chapter Five
wrong: “The ones to blame are the ones who kidnapped the captain!” he said. “And it was the commander who showed a lapse in judgment by letting all those people board the ship. They must have overpowered the captain and crew, and taken control of the ship.” “You’re right, brother,” the bey agreed. “It’s all the commander’s fault. I’ll
5.45
take my revenge on him instead!” And he ordered that the two hundred soldiers be freed. “Set the prisoners free, as a favor to my brother the consul, and bring them before me!” he commanded. When they were brought before the bey, he declared, “I’ve pardoned you for the sake of my brother the consul.” They kissed his hands and left in peace. The consul rose, thanked the bey, and returned home. As it happens, I was present at the time and witnessed this whole scene from start to finish. Here’s another story we heard about the bey’s affection for the consul.
5.46
It so happened that when the ships of the principality of Tripoli were plying the seas and marauding in their usual way, they came upon a ship belonging to the principality of Genoa. They followed the ship, harassing it, and eventually managed to lay hold of it and its crew. They brought it back to Tripoli, and, after anchoring in the harbor, informed the bey about the ship they’d captured. The bey ordered them to parade before him the men who’d been aboard.
5.47
There were more than two hundred in all, including the captain, his guards, the sailors, and the passengers. Studying the prisoners, the bey saw that there was a young boy among them. He was radiantly beautiful, and wore fine clothes that were a testament to his wealth and good breeding. The boy was the son of a prince of Rome, and his father had sent him to visit his aunt in the town of Messina, by way of a pleasure cruise. The bey was drawn to him, and felt such strong feelings of affection welling up deep within that he called him over to put him at ease, and ordered his dragoman to calm the frightened boy. “Tell him this,” the bey said to the dragoman. “‘His Excellency the Bey has taken a liking to you and would like to make you his beloved son.’” The boy wasn’t put at ease at all, and instead began to cry. As his crying grew louder, the bey realized that the child was inconsolable, so he sent him to the harem, where the women could try to soothe and distract him. He selected
131
131
5.48
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
�� ة ب ب ب ة � � � حة ة ب ا بل�ة ب ���دة� ��ش ا ��ل��� ب � او �� �ه� ��ب ب���د �م��ة بد ��ل��ك ا ���ب���ل�� � � ح ب� ا �ل���ةص �مص � � � ا �ل ل � �� ه � ل � ل ��� ص �� ك � ة � ة و � � ر ر ص ص م ة م ة ة ً ا � �ب ا �ة � ا � � �ا ب � ةا ب ب ب � � � ا ا � � � � � � � � ا � � � � ��ر� �ب� �ة� ا �ر ب�� �ل ا �ة� � ك �م����� � او � م�� � ا لة����� ار � او �م� ���ل م ة ��و�م� ب���د ة ��وم ك� � ا ة���س�� ���ص م ا ب � ب ��ل � ة ��ا ب ة ة� ب ��م �ة � ة � ش ا ا ش � � � � �و��� � ة رب �مص ا �ر� �و�م���ل ا �م� � ا �لب�ة��ك بل ك ح�� ���ل ا ������� �م � او د ب� �وك�� ��� �رة��د ب م ة م ج ب � � ��ش � ة � ب ة � ة � � ا ا � � � ا ���ب���ل�� � ��ب� ة��� ط � � � � � � ���د �ه � �و ��هب���ل�� �و ب �مة�� ا ����ل �ب�ل� ��ط�� ك�� � ��وا ا ا ك � � � ل ا � � � ل � � م ة � � � � � � ك و ر و � ة ب ة ب ة م ة ة ع ب ا ��� � � � ا � ب �� � � � � ��ر��و ���ل ��ل �ل� ب���ل �� طرا �لب�ة��ك. لة � م � ب � ب ب � ب ب ا � �� � ب � � � � �م ب ا ب ل ��مة�� ��س���ة� ���لة��� �م�ده �م بص ا � بر�م�ا � �و�ه�و � � ع ا ��ة� ا � �و����ل ��رك� ب� �ر����� �و ة� ا �ة� م��رم ص � � ب � � �ة �ة � ب ة � � ب � �� ا �ل��� ك� ��ر � او �ع ��ط�ا ه �س���ل�� �و ��ة� ��ا �ل �و� �صو�ل�� �رب� ا � ��هب� ��ط�ا � �م بص ا�ا��رك� ب� � او �ة� ا �ة� �ع ب��د ا � ��هب�� ج �ة ة �ب ��ا ة �ب ب ا �� � � ب� � ا ب �� ب � � � ب � � � � � ا � � ا ا � ك � � � � � �ك م�� �صو ب� ��ر�����ل �م بص د �وك �م بص د �وك� و � ر����� ود �ر �ل� ة�� ب� � ���ل ا ل�د ة� و� ع �ة� م ة � � �� ب �ب � � � �� ب ب �ب � ا �لة�����ر�ع ب��د �م� ��ة� �م�دة�ل ب��� ��ط ارب�ل��ل��ص ا �ل��د �ة� ة����م�ا ��ل� � ا ������ل � او �ل��ده ا �لة�ب��ا �����ا �ل�� �ود ا ��ر �ل ب��ا �ب�ا � ب ب � ب ش اب ة � � ح��د ك � �ة� ة �ب ا ش ��ا ب ة ب�ر�����ل � و �س����ك ا ب�ل��� �مص ا �لة�����ر �ب� �ة� ��م بص ك�� � �و�ر�����ل�� ا ��ة� ح���ك �ب� � �لب��د �ل ب� � �ة � ط�� ة � � � �س��د � �ة�� ب � ب حب� ا��م�ة�م ب��ا ة� �������ل�� �م�ا ��طرب�ك ب��ا �و � او ����ل�ك �� ةص �م بص ا �ل�� � ح��� ا � ��ةهب� ���ط�ا ب� ا � ��ة��ا د � ا �لة� �� �� و ب م �م ة م � � ب � ب�لة� ���ط��ل�ة ��وه �ب�ا ��ل��د �ا �ه� ةل�� حب� ا ���� ب�لة���ك ا�ام��ة�����ل���� ب ��� �ةل��ل�ك ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� � او بل ك� ��و ب� �ة��ة��د � ����ل � � ��ا ب� ب�لة���ل بر� ص ة ة م م م ب ب �� ب ب � � � ة ةب �ة��� ��� �ب �ة ��� ة� �ب ح� د �ا �ه� ��ا �ع ��ط�� �و�ل� ة�ل �صو� ��� � او ب�� ة� �م� ��و��ص ا �ل���ر ��ة� ����ل ب���د �م��. ط�ة� ��و� �ل �م ة � � ة � � � ب � �� � ب � � �وا �ب��ك �ل ب��ا ا �ل� �ب�ا �����ا �ل ا ��ب���ل�� � ا �ة� ��طر�ك ب��ا � �وب�ا ��ة� � او �ل����ل�� � . ا�ا�� ار د �ل� لة���و� ب�� م م �ب �ب � ا ة �� ة ب ب � � ا� ة ة ب ع ���� � ��� �ل � ��م ة � � ب� م�� �ص�و ب� �و��� ��ر د �ل�ك ا� ك �ل�م� � ار ء ا ��ه�� ح��� ا �لب�ة���ك ا ��ة� د �ل��ك ع ��ة� ��ة�ره ةم� ب �� �م� ب � ً � ��ا ا ���ب���ل�� � � او �ب�� �م ب ا�ام�مةب�س� ا �ب�� �ة� ���ط��ل�ة��� .ا ب��ة�را �سب��� ا ���� �ع ب��د ا ��ل����ك ب ك � ح��ا ��ة� ��� د �ة�� �ب� ��ط��ل ب� بة ة� ة م بص ع � � � ب � �� ب ب ة ب � ة � ش ة � � ا ا ا ا � � � � � ل � � � � ل � � ل � � � � � � � � �� ك � � � � � � � ا ا � م � � � � � � بو����ة ر �ط�ل ب� �م� ����ل م� م� كل�� ب �ل�و ص بو ��ده ��� � ة������� �ر م�� �مك� ��و� �� د �� � �م ��ا ب ��� �� ة ب ب �ة ة ة � � اب ب� �� ��ا �عر��ص ا � ��هب�� ���� � ار � ا �ب�� �ة��هب���ل � ب��ا ه � او �ل� �م�ا ب�لة���ر ب��ا ه ��ا �لب�ة���ك ��ر���ة� ا �لب�ة��ك �ب� � ك�� � ة �� ة �ب ة � ة � ب ب �ة ب ة ب �ب ش ط�� بص �ب�ا � ا � ��هب�� �م�ا ب� ��ر �ب��ده �ة��ر ب��ا ��ة� ا �����ل�� �م ��ا ب��ا �ب�� ����� ا � �� ��و� �ب �� ��و�ل�� ���و�ل �ة�ا ا ��ة� ��ا ����ا �ة� ة ة� ا ب � ��ا ب� ا د ��ا ك � ���� �س��م�ا ���ط��ل� ة� �ب�ا �ة��د �ة ا �� ��ةهب�� ب � ب ا ب � �ب وو � ��ر�عص ��ط��لب��� ����� د ���لة��� ا �لب�ة���ك ���و�ل �ة� ا ��ة� ب ر � ة ة � ب ة ب ���ا � ��� د ا ���� . �س���م�ا ة� �ر��د ا �م�ا ����ل��� �ب�ا ب� � ب��ا ك �ع ب��د �ة� �م�ا �ب��ر�ة��د �و���و ك� ��ر ا �ل��� حة�ب�ً�د ا � ��هب�� ة ة � م ة� ة م ة � �ب � � � ب ب �� � � � � ا �لب�ة���ك �ب�ا �ا ك م�� �صو ب� ا �ل�د �ة� �و���ل� مص د �ل�ك ا �ل�د �وك. �� ة ب ب ة ا ب �ة ة ا ب � � ب �� � او ��� �ر ب�� �ة� ح�ة� ا �ر ب�� ك � او ������ل ����ل ��ل� �م ا �ة� �ع��د � او �ل�ده �و� او �ل�د ��� � او �����م ا ������ل� او �ب ��ل ا � � ب � ب �ب ا ���� � �� �ةر��ك ���د ا �ة�ا ب�لة���لةص�ة� ب� ش����ا �ب��ك � او ������ل �ة� ا�� �ل � او ح� حب� ��را �����د ا �ة�ا ا �م�ا �م�� ��م�ا ا �لة��ع ة� ة 132
132
٤٩،٥
٥٠،٥
٥١،٥
Chapter Five
two other young prisoners and ordered them to serve the boy and keep him company, and sent the rest of the men off to prison. With each passing day, the boy felt increasingly at ease. He began to come out of the harem and appear before the bey, comporting himself most courteously. The bey’s love for him grew more intense, and he would often hug him to his chest and kiss him. Out of regard for the bey, all the members of his court showed the boy every possible favor. Time passed, and the boy continued to be held in high esteem. One day, a
5.49
French ship arrived in the harbor. The captain went to see Lemaire, the consul. He gave him a letter from one of the dukes of France. “This concerns the boy taken captive in Tripoli—whose name is such and such,” the letter read. “The boy’s father has written to us, begging us to urge you to spare no effort to liberate his son from captivity, whatever the price may be, and to send him to us. We’ve sent you two trunks full of expensive gifts in the company of this ship captain, because money alone may not be enough to set the boy free. Present these gifts to the bey who rules over the city. If it’s necessary to offer him money on top of the gifts, don’t hesitate; you are so authorized. In other words, make sure the boy returns. We look forward to a favorable reply, and, indeed, will accept no other. Salutations.” When the consul finished reading the letter, he felt utterly at a loss. He
5.50
knew of the bey’s great love for the boy, and that he’d never let him go. In any event, the consul went to see the bey, as was his usual custom, whether or not he had a favor to ask. He presented himself, and the bey invited him to sit down. They began to chat amiably in their regular way, and the consul asked the bey if he would promise to grant a certain request. If not, the consul said, he wouldn’t make the request at all. The bey couldn’t imagine that the consul would ask for the boy, so he responded immediately. “Speak, brother! Far be it from me to deny your request, no matter what it is.” The consul hesitated, and the bey repeated his exhortation. “Brother, do speak up! Don’t you know that your requests will never be denied, even if they’re at my own expense?” the bey said, so the consul told him about the letter he had received from the duke. “He has asked me to send the boy back to his parents,” the consul explained. “They’ve sent Your Excellency gifts worthy of your station,” he said, as he called for the gifts and had them brought before the bey.
133
133
5.51
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
� � ب � � �ة �� ا ��لب�ة���ك ا ��� �ةل��ل�ك ا �����د ا �ة�ا � �وة��د ا ��را ��ب�هة�ب�� � او �ل���� �مب� ���� �و ب� ��ر �و�ل� ح��� �و�م�ا ��� د ك�ل��� ا � ��هب�� � ص ة ة� م � � ب� ا ة� ا �� ��ة ب � � ب � ب � بل ك� � � � � ه � � ��ر �و� ���ل�م�� � او � ��ده ا �م� رك �� ��ده �ود ���ل ا ة� رم� ب رده �ل� � ����ل ا ��ر��ع ب� � � � ب ���ل��� �م ب � ة ب ���ده ا �ب�� ا �ع ���ط�ا �ة ار � �ب�ا �ب�� �ل�� �ةرد � ب��ا ه � او �لش��ا ب�لة��� �عة� ة� ���لة��� حع ة� ا ��� او � ة صب� ح����ةص ب� � ب � � ة ب اب با � ب � ب ة ب� ب ا ا � �م���ا ��ك ة� د �ل��ك ا �����ل�� �م ���ل�م�ا �ا ء ا � ��هب�� ��ر �ب� � � ب�� ه �م� �����لك � او �م��ل�� �� ب� �س���ة� ا �ة� ا � � � ة ا � � � ب ��م � ة � �� ب �ب ب � � �ة ا � � ب� ا ا ��ل ب ب ة ح��� ا � ��هب�� ��ر �لة��ل� لة���و� ب��ة����� �و�ه�و �ة� �� ة� �ل� ح��� � �و �ر� � او �م� ا �لب�ة��ك ب ���ة� �ب� �ل� ع��د ب ب ة �� ا� ��ر�م ب��� �ل��ب�� �م�ا �كب���ل � ب��ا ه. ح� ب � � � ب � ا ب � ب� � ب ة � � �ة ب ب �� ��ا ��طره ���ل�م�ا ا �ة� ا �ر�� �سو�ل �ة��د �ع�ة� ا � ��هب�� �كة��ا �ة� ا �ل��ة�ا �م ا ������ل ��د �� ه ا �ة� ع��ده �لة�� ��د ب ��ر � � ب � � ا �� ب� �� � � � � �ه ب � ب � ة � بب ا �� �ع ب��د ا ��ل � �ب�ا ب�كة� ا ب ب ح��ل� �و �ة� ا � ك ب�ة��ك � � ���ا � �ل��ل�هب�� ��ر �و�ل��د ���ة�ر ��ر �ب� ��� ة �ل��ص د �ل�ك ���ل م ب ة ة� � ب � � ة ب � � � � ب � � �� ��ا � اب � ح��� ب�م ح��� � او �ل��د �ة�� �وك���ل ��ره ا �ل��د �ة� ة��م���ة� �م� ا ب�لة��� ا ��ة� �ع ب��د ا �لب�ة���ك �ب ة���م� ل���و�ل� �وك�� � ا �لب�ة��ك ة� ب ع ب � ب � � ة ط� � �� �ب� ��ا ب� ا ��ل����ك �ة�� ���د �ه � �و ��هب���ل�� �و� ��و�هب��� �س���م�ا ��ط��ل ب� �م ب��� �و�ل�� �ةرد ��ط��لب�ة��� �و���د ا ا � م � � � ك ك� ب ة ة ة ة � � � ب �ب � � � ��ا � �ب�ا ���ة �� ��ة��� ش�� ��ب ا ���ب���ا ��� �ب�����ل�م�� � ا ��ل��ده ا �� ��ةهب � � ح ��ر �ب�ا ب� �ام�ا �م�ب�ر���د ب�ر ب� � �� �م بص �ع ب��د م � و � ة ة ا ��و�ل�د ك� � ةج � ة ص ة ب ة ع � � ا �ة�ة � �� ب�ك � � � ة� ب ب ة � ب � ا� ب � با ا ب� ب � ا �لب�ة���ك �� �م�����ك ا ��� ا �����ل� �م ا�م�د ��و� �و ��رب��ط ة�� �و�ل� ر حة��� � او د ا �ا د � او �ة� ��د �وه �مص � � ب� � ب � � �ة��د ك ب��ا بل �� �� � او �ة��و�����ل ا ��ة� ا �لب�ة���ك �ب�ا �ب�� ة�لب ��ةهة��� �م����ك �وة�لة��� بر�ه� او ب��م��ل�� د �ل��ك ا �لة �صو� ا ��ة� ا�ام����ا ء � ة م � � � � ة� ب � � � �� ا �ب ا ا ة � � ب ش� � � � �ة � � ا � ا ة� ب � � � � � ب ر���� و ل� ة� ك رحة�� و��و � ��ر�ك برحة�� �ل� رحة�� . م � ب ��� �ب � ب ة ب � � ش � ب ة �� ا �م� �ا ا ا ب ب � � � � ع � � � � ا � �ص او ا �ة� �ع��د ا �لب�ة��ك �ل�م� ا �م��� �ه� كب����د �م� ب�ر����� �و��ل�م�� كة ��� ة �م��ل �س� � �ل ب� ر م ب � ب� � � � � ب ا �ة � ب ً � ب � ���و ب� ا � ��ا ��طره ة��ا �ة�ل�� �ل�� �ب�ا � �ب�ا ��ة� ب����ة� �ع ب��د ك �لة��ل�� ةل� ح� ��ر ة� ح ب� �كة��� � او ��د ب ا �لب�ة��ك �� ���� ر ة � ب � ب �ب ا ب � ة ة ة ا ب � ب � ا� ا � �ة ا ��ة���ك ���د ا �مب��� �ل�� �ة� �م�ا ����� ك ل��� � ب�� ك �و���و ا �عر� �ب� ��ك �ب��ر�ة��د ���ر ب�� �ة� ا �����ل� �م �م� ا �ع ��ة ة ب ��ب � � ا � ا� ب � � ش ب � ش � ا ا ا � ب � � � � ا ل � � ا � ��ة� ار � �و � ل��ص ����� ��� � �ل� ةح����ل �م��ك ��� او ��ده �وك�� � ا �لب�ة��ك ا ���ل �بر�م�� �م� ���� ���د ة � ً � � �ة ة �� �م ب ���ط �ب� � او ��ل��د بد ��ل��ك ا ���ب���ل�� � �و� او ��ل��د �ة�� ا ��ل � بر�ل ب��� .ا ب��ة�را �ل��ل�ك ا �����د ا �ة�ا ا � ��ة� ب��ا �ب����ا �ل�� ا � ��هب� � ص ر ر ة م ة ب �ة � �ة ة ا �� ا ة ا� ة ا ش ا� ش �ه�وه ���ر���ل� �س��ة��ا �م ا � ��هب�� ة��م� ��ر � او �لب�ة���ك ة�ل���� ��ر� او ���� د �����م ب�����د �م� ��� �بر �� او ا�م���ر�و ب� � او � �� � ً � � ب � ب ا ب ب ا �� �ة ب ا� ب م�د �� ���ا ب �ل��ل�ع� �م� بد ��ل�� ا ���ب��� �� � ��� � ك� ���ا دهة ا �ل���و �ل��د .ا ب��ة�را ����ا ��� �م ا � �م� � ا � �ه��� ا� ص ر � وبص � ر �و� � ة ب ع ك ل م �ة ب � �� � ا � ة �س��ا ب� ب� �م ب ا ��ل����ك � �ب��� ب��ص ا � ��هب� ح�ة� ة��م���� ا ��ة� ب��ة��ة���. � و ص ر ة ب ة ة � � ب � � ا �� ب� �� � ا ا ب � � � � �ب�مب�� ب �دا � � � ب � � � � ب�� � � � � � ه ده م � � حة�ب�ً�د �لة����و�ل� ا�ام�د ��و� �م����ك ة��د د �ل�ك ��ل م و� د ة� � �� ��و � م ا لب�ة��ك ب � � � ب ب � � ة م�� �بص ا �ب�� �ةر ب��ة� �ة��د د ��ل��ك ا ��ب���ل�� � ب�ل��ل ���ا � ة�لب� �� �ب�ا �ام��ل�ة� �ب�ا �ب�� �ةر��ة� �ة��د ا ��ب���ل�� � ��م�ا ا � � �� �ةو�ل �صو�����ل ا ��ة� ة م م 134
134
٥٢،٥
٥٣،٥
٥٤،٥
Chapter Five
But the bey didn’t even glance at them. His face was full of anger and sorrow. He didn’t say another word to the consul and stormed off to his harem. He was furious, as this affair had put him in a real predicament. On the one hand, he’d promised not to refuse the consul’s request. On the other, the prospect of losing the boy filled him with grief. Meanwhile, the consul realized that his plea had failed to hit the mark. With his hopes dashed, he returned to his house, despondent. But the bey’s thoughts continued to dwell on the consul. He loved him dearly and didn’t want to put him in dire straits because the request hadn’t been granted. The next day, the bey sent for the consul so they could patch things up.
5.52
When the messenger came by with the summons, the consul suddenly thought of a trick to save the boy. It went like this. The consul had a young son named Nicholas, and the bey loved him as dearly as his parents did. Whenever he accompanied his father on his visits, the bey would hug and kiss him, and grant him whatever he asked for, never denying him any request. Now, this Nicholas was a bright, precocious, chatty child, and his father said to him, “When we’re about to leave the bey’s house, grab hold of the boy and cling to him. Don’t let go! If they try to take him away from you, cry and beg the bey to let him stay with you, so that you can spend the rest of the day playing together.” And the consul added, “Whatever you do, don’t let go of that boy, even if I tell you to!” Having given his instructions, the consul took his son and went to see the
5.53
bey, who welcomed the consul as soon as he arrived. “I’ve been so worried,” the bey said soothingly. “I hope I haven’t put you in a difficult spot by not accepting your request. If only I’d known that you were going to ask me for the boy, I’d never have made that vow! Ah well, what’s done is done. I hope you won’t hold it against me.” When the bey saw the gifts the consul had brought him from the boy’s father and his poor mother, his own anger subsided, and he and the consul sat chatting in their usual way, having some drinks and coffee. An hour or so passed, while the consul’s son played with the young boy, as children do. Finally, the consul rose and asked the bey’s permission to take his leave and go home. At that, Nicholas grasped the boy’s hand and began pulling him along. The bey’s servants tried to stop him, asking him gently to let go of the boy’s hand.
135
135
5.54
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
� ���ا ب� ���ل�م�� ا � �� ه ا �م�ا ا ��ل����ك �م�ا ا �هة��د �� ��� ا ��ل �ك�� ك� ا ��لب�ة���ك �ب�ا �ب���� �ة��ةر �� ح���ل�� ��وه �ة�ا ب���د ا ��ب���ل�� � �م���� � م �ة ب و ة � ة ب ة� م �ب ا � � ة م � � � ب � � ا �� � �ب � ب ب � حة �����ا � ��مب��� �م� � ا ��ل��ده ��بم�ا � � � � ا � ك ���� � ة�م�ل�� ا ���و�ل�د �لة����و�ل� و ������ل ب�� ب� ل� ر���� ���ة ره �ة� ةر ب � ةو ة� و �ع �ب ب �ب ب ح�ب��د ا ب�لة�ه ه � ا ��ل��ده ا �� ��ةهب�� ا ب ��ا ب ة � � ا � ب � ب ك�� � �ة��هب���ل ا �ل� �ب� �����ل� �م ا ��� �ةر�وج� �م����� .ة ً � � و ��ر �ب� ��� �ةرحة��� ار د �ة� � � ب � � ا �� � � � � ب � � � لب� ك� ��ا ء � او �لة�صو�����ل ا ��ة� ا �لب�ة���ك ���ل�م�ا �ا ء ا �لب�ة���ك �ع بر� ا ���و�ل��د ��م�ا �ا د ة��ب�هة ب� ��ط�� �ل�� ب���ل ب��ا ��طر � او �ل��ده م �ب � ك ��م ب �� ��� � � ا �ب � � ا ب �ده �ل ��ةه � �ع ب�ده ا �� �كة ة � ا � � � ب ب � � � حب�ة��� �كة��� �م ل� ب� � ة� �� �ةو ب ة�� � ة� �و � م� ةرة��د. حة�ب�ً�د �ر� �لة����و�ل� �و�����د �و ج ة � � ب� � � �ة � � �� � ة � ب ب �� � ب � ا ب � � � �� �� ب ط�م�� ا �ة� � �كب���ل �ة��د ا �لب�ة���ك � او �لب�ة��ك ���د �ه �و�لب�� � او �ط�ل��� � او د � ل�ل���ل� �م �ب� �� �ةر �وج �م��� �مص ��� ب ا � �ه��� �ه� �ب�س ب� � � ب � ب ًا �� ة �� ة ب �� �ب ��ا �ب�� ب �و� بممة�� به ةص. وب و �ص او ا �����ل� �م��ةص �م��� ا �ة� ب��ة��� ا ��ه�� ر ر ةص ة ة ا ب � � � ب � �ب ة � ة � ب ة � � ب ش � � ا ا ا ب � � � ��رك�� � �ة ��و� � او �لب�ة��ك �م� ����� ��لة��� ك�� ��� ����لة��� � او � � �س��� � د � ا ����� � � ���� ا � ��ه� ص م ل�ك ل م �ة� ب ة� � م م � ة ب ��ر �ب�ا ب� ا ��لب�ة���ك �م�ا ��� د ����ا ��ل �ع ب��� �ب����ا � �ع ب��ده �م����ل�و� �ب�ا ب� ا ��لب�ة���ك ا �و�هب��� ���ل�م�ا �ا ء ا � ��هب�� م ة � � � � �ب ب ��ل � � ب ة � ب ب � �� � ب ا ��ة� ا ب�ل ب��� ب�لة����و�ل� ���� ا ��ر �كب� ��ط�ا � د �ل��ك ا�ا��رك�� ب� ا �ل��د �ة� ا �ة� �ب�ا �����د ا �ة�ا � او ��ره ��ا �ل ا ������ل ا ح� ة �ب � �ة ا ��ل��م�ب �ب�ا �ب�� لة���و� ���� ةع�ب�� �ر. ا� ا ب ة ب ب � ب � � ب � �� � � �� �ب �و�م� ك� ���ا � ������ ا �ل��لة���ل ا ������ل ا �����ل�� �م ا ��ة� ا�ا��رك� ب� �و ��ة� ��ا �ل �و�ص�و�ل�� ����ا �ر ا�ا��رك� ب� � � � � � � � او ��ب���ل�� � �م���� �و�����د �م�ده �م بص ا � بر�م�ا ب� �و����ل � ك� م��ا �ة�ة�� ب� �م بص ا �ل��د �وك �و�م بص ا �ل���م�ة�ر ا ب� ��و ا ��ب���ل�� � ب م م �� � ب �ب� ب � � � �ب ب ا �ل ب � ب � � � ا �� � ب � ��� �� � ب � ا �ل ب � �م ب ا ���� � ا �� ا � � � � �ل � � � �و�ش���ا ��ر ص � ���ل� و�����ل ب �� ة �و�ل� ل�د ة� ب �ب ب�� ��ل��ص ب �� ص لة ���ر و � ���ل �ل� م�ة ر ة ب ة � � ا� � � �ب ة � � � ش ة ا � ب ة � � � ة � ة ا ش � � �س���� م���ل ب� ا ب���و ا ��ب���ل� � د ���ل �ل�لك ا� ك� م�� �� ب� �و� ة � �ح�� �ود ا ��ر �ة� �ل�لك ا ���و�لة����� �ب� �ة� ا �و� بع�� م � � ب� � � ة �� � � �ة��ب�ً�ا �م�ا ���دًا ا ��ل�� بد � �م�د ب�� � ب �� �ب ب ا ب ا ��ة� �لة����و�ل� اب� بص �كب�� ة� ��ر � ةل�حج�م�ة�ر� او ا � ��� �ر���� �و�ة� �مص ا �م�ل� �ة�� و �و�ل�� ��ة� ك���ل ب ً � � ب � ب � � ب ب� � ���د ة��م�ا �ب����� �ل�� �ه�و �و�ل�� �ل��د ��لة��� �م�ا �ب��د ا �و���د ا �س��� ا ���ب� �عر��شص �و�ل�� ا � � ح ��ط �ة��د �ة� �ب�ة�� ش��س���د ة � ب ب �ب ب � ا � � � ب �� ة � � � ���ة� ���و�ة� � او �ل����ل� �م �و��� � �ل�� �ولة����ل ��ة� � �و�مة��� �ةر�����ل �ل�� ��ة� ك���ل ��س��� ا ���� �عر��ص ا �ة� ب �ة ��و�م ب��ا ���د ا. �ب ب �ب � ب � �ة �ب �� �ا � �ة ��م ة � ب ��را�ام�د �� ح ك� �و���د ه � ك� ��و� � او �ل��د �ة� ا � ح��� ا �لب�ة���ك �ل��د �ل��ك ا � ��هب�� ��ا ��ة� ����ل �ب��ر �ه�و ك���ا � ح�� ة� ب ا ة ب ة � ��ب �ب بد �� � ا �� ب � ا ب ة� � ا ب ا �� ��ةهب� ��ا ب ة ب ة �ة� ل�ك رم� � ر ب �م� � � ��ر �وك�� � � او � ��� ����ة� ب���لة���� �و�ه�و ��� د �� ��ة� ���و�ل�� �ل� �ة� ب ب� � �ك�� �ه�و �م�د ���و�. ��م�هة��� �م بص ��ة�ره �م ةة ب ب ب ة � � � �ب �ة �� � ب � � او ��س����م ب��ا ��ة� ب��ة�� ة� ا � ��هب�� ��ر ��ة� ��� �ة�� ا �لب����س ��ط � او �ل�� ش��� ارج� ا ��ة� �ة ��و�م �م بص ا �ل��ة�ا �م �وك���ا � � �ب � � �ةا � ب ب ب ب � ب ا ��� � �عة��د �ع ب��د ا �لة����س�و�عة��� ا � ���� ������ ��را � ��ة��د ا ��ص �ع ب��د �ه� �� ةص ��ة� ���د ه ا�ام�دة�ل ب��� �رد ة� ا ��و ا ح� ج م م 136
136
٥٥،٥
٥٦،٥
٥٧،٥
٥٨،٥
Chapter Five
But he wouldn’t, and instead began to cry and plead with the bey to let him take the boy home, just as his father had taught him. Oblivious to the trick that was being played on him, the bey tried to distract Nicholas by sending for a pony that he could ride alongside his father. But Nicholas refused, insisting that the boy come with them. “Let go of his hand!” the consul chided his son, who only cried more and kept on pleading. Seeing how determined Nicholas was, the bey decided not to upset him any further, if only for his father’s sake and his love for him. So he permitted them to take the boy along and keep him at their house for as long as Nicholas wanted. Delighted, Nicholas ran to kiss the bey’s hand, and the bey hugged the boy to his chest and kissed him. Then he let him go and gave permission to the boy to accompany Nicholas, as if he’d been the one to offer in the first place. The two boys happily left together. The young boy remained at the consul’s house for a few days, and the bey
5.55
didn’t come looking for him. It was as though he’d reconciled himself to losing him. Concluding that the bey had given the boy to his son Nicholas, the consul sent for the captain who had brought the gifts, and ordered him to make ready to sail. In the middle of the night, he sent the boy to the ship, which set off as soon
5.56
as he was aboard. Some time later, letters arrived from the duke and the boy’s father, the prince. They thanked the consul as well as his son Nicholas, who had facilitated the boy’s escape. The prince had included among the letters a document that read as follows: “I hereby bestow upon Nicholas, son of the French consul Lemaire, one of my own properties, whose income is one thousand piasters per year, which no one may deny him or his offspring, in perpetuity. May this signature testify to my statement.” So Nicholas would receive one thousand piasters from an agent in Rome each year, a practice that continues to this very day. That’s the story of the bey’s affection for the French consul. I heard it from
5.57
the man who served as the consul’s dragoman at the time, and who knew him intimately. I know that his account was faithful, as I heard the same story from others. We remained at the consul’s home in the utmost comfort and ease. One day, when the Jesuits living in Tripoli were celebrating one of their holidays,
137
137
5.58
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
ا�� ب � ة ب � � �� ا ب� ب���ل���� ة حب�ةس��� �م بص ���ل�� . ��� ة� ا ������ل ة� ب� �واة ب�� ا� ك� م���ل���� ا � ��� ك� س� � �ل�� ب���ل ا ��ب� ب� حة�ب�ً�د � ب ر ب ة� ة م � ش ا ش � ة ا �ة � � ب ة ة � ب � � �� ب ا �ب �ل ا �ب ا �� ��ة ب � � � � ه ���� �ع����� ا �لب����ص ا �ل���� ��ص � او � ���� �و�و� ا �ل�د ة� �ه�و � ة� ب�ل د �� � �م� �ا ة� �� ��ر ب�����ل م�لب����ص ة ة ���ا ب� ب�ع � ا �ب�ب����س ���ط �مب��� ك� حب��� �م��لب�������. ة ة � ب �ة � ب � ا ب �ًا � ب �ة � حب�� ة ا �� ��ة � � � � � � � � � � �� ا � ع ا �� م ا � � ��ده ل � � ح �د �� � د د � س � � � ل س � �� ��ة ر � ة ة� ةر ة �و ة و � ر� ر ب � ص ةر ص بو ب ا� ا ب � � ب �ة � �ا ب � ا ��� ة� ��ب� ا ����طر���ة ���ا د �ب��و�ب� ا �������ة ا ب� � �و�ة��و ب� ح ك� ح�ع ة� ا �ة� ب��ة�� ة� ا � ��هب�� �� ��ة�� ��ل�م� �ا �و �ة� ة� ة ب ��ر �و�م� ك ة � �ة ب��� ا � ب��� ب � ب� ب� � ���ا � ا ��ه ب � ا � ��س� � ة� ش��س�ةم � ب �ل��لب�هة�� � �ة����ة�� � ا �� ّ��ا ب �� � � � � � � ك�� �����م �ب�ة�ر�ة��د � او و و ة ر�و ة� و ��و ة �ب �و �و �ب م و و �ة� ب � م و رو �ة ���د �مب �ةكة��� ب��ا �ة��ع� ة� �مب ��� �و ب��� � ���� ّ ك� ���ا �ب�� ��� �لة��ل�� �ة��هة�� ��� او ب �ة� ��م�ا �ا ��ة ة� ا �ل�� ا �ب ب���رد � او � �ة� � ب ة� �م �م ب ة ا ب� ة ة ب ا �ب � � � ب ة ش ب �ة�ا �ةل��لب��� �و ب� ح �� � �� ا �ل ش����ا ��ص �م بص ���� �ا ����ة� �و�س���ة� �م� ������ ه كب��عة�� ا �� �ة� ا � ���ر��� ��ر�ع�و ب� ة ة ع ب ب ب ا �� ب ب ش ة ب ا ة � � � � � � � � �و� بر�� � �و�س� ��س� �� ع�� ���ة� �� �ة� �وا ��ة� �و�����د ة� �ل�م� �اة�ل � ة ���م ب�����د � او ع��ة� حة��ً�د �و�ة ب ا �ب ة �م ش ع �� � �� �� � � � �� �ب � ة �� � ة ا �� ��ة ب � ه ل ا ا ا � � ا ا � � � � � � � � � � � �� ل ط � � � � ل � � �� � � � � � � �و� � � ��ر� ا ����ة� � او ع و�ة ة� ة ل ةر ب �و ة� �و ر و ة� �ل ة� ب ة ا � �ش ب � ��س� ا ��ل �� �ل�� � ك �وا ��ص. ��سو�� ا � ار ��ص �و�سب� �� م�� � ة ع ةب ب � �ة � ب ب ب� � ة ا ب ب� � � ���ا �لة��ا �ب��ل�م�ا � ة� � �كب ك� ��ا � ��ة� د �ل��ك ا ���و�ك ة� � او � ��� ��ة� ا �لب��ا ب� �لة����و�ل� اب� بص ا � ��هب�� ��ر �و ح�� ��رك �ة ب ب � �ة ا �� ��ةهب ب ب �ا �و ��ة� ��ة� ����ل ��ا �ل�� ب��ا ���ر�ع� او � او ب�ب��ر� او ا ب�ل ��ر���ل�م�ا ���م� ا � ��هب�� ��� �� ��ر �و�م����ل��مة� ����ل �ب��ر � ة م ع �ع ب� �ب�ب� ب �� ا ا ����لش ب��� ب ا �� �ع ب��د � �ب��ل�م�ا ا � �ب �ب ��� �ا ���� ��ع ة ا �� ��ةهب��� � � �ا � �ا ���ب ة� �ة� ر��و �ل ةص ة� � و ة� �ة� �ل � ل ب � � � ر و � � ة��� �ة� � ش ب ب � � ة � ة � ب �م�ا بد ا � � ��� � �م ب �ه ا �ل��د � ا ب���د �ش���ا ���� ��ا � ك ة � � ب ا �� ه ا � ��هب�� ا ب ر ة� ة� و ص �و ة� ��ر �ب� �ل��د �ة� ��� � ة� ح��ة�� ا �ة� ح� ر � ب ب � � � � ح��د ��ا ��ب�� ب ��ا ���ةم�ا � ب���ل�م�ا ���م� ا �� ��ةهب ل��ل�� � ا � ة ��ا �ل ��ا ب� ة� ��� � او �� ��� ا �ل ��ر�مب��� ���د ا ا � ك� � حب� � � ��ر� او ب ب ر ب ة ة م ب �ة م ب ع � ب � � ة ب ة ب ب ة ب ب ب ب ش ا �ل��ر ب��م�ا � ا �م�ا �م�� ���ل�م�ا � ��ر �ب�ا ��� �ة�������ص �و�ةر�ة� �م بص �ه�و ا �ل��د �ة� ا ���د ��را �ل��ر ب��م�ا � ��ا ��ره ا � ��هب�� ح� ش � � �ب ��ل � ة �� ��ة ��به ب��ا �وة ب� حة�بس��� �ة� ا ����ل �ش���ا ��ص � او � ��ة��ا �و�و�� �م بص ���� �ا ��ص ب� ��ا �ل �م ب��� �و�ل� ة���ع�م��ل ا �ع�م�ا �ل م � ة ا � ب ب ا��ا ب � � ب �ش�����ل � ب � � �ب �ب�ب ب � ة ا ب ب ا ة ب � ا � � � � ا ا � � ع م� ا د �� � � � � � � � د د �� �� � � � � �� ل � ك � � � � � ا �ل��ر ب��م� � �مص ا �م� �م ا � ��ه�� ر و � �ل و ة� و �ة� ص � ة� وة� رج � � ب ب ب � ة ة ة ة ب ب �كة��� ������لة���ل�� �ه�و �ر�� ب� ا �ر��ا �� ا �ل��د �ة� ب ب��ا �� ب� د�ةر ا �لة����س�و�عة���. ة � �ب ب ً � ب ة�� ب ة � � ة � ش �ة ة ب ���رك���ة� �و�س���ة� � بو�����د ����ا ��� د �� �ة� ا �ة�� ���ا ���ه ب��ده �و���� �لة�� ش��ص �لب����س� ا �ل ش����ا ��ص � او � ����ا �و�و�� ة � � ب ب � �ب � ���د �ةل��لب���� �ش���ا ��شص �وة��ا �و�و�ة� ب��ة�ر ا �لب��ا �ش���� ا�ا��ر�����ل �م بص ا ��س ب� �� ��ول� �ل��� ��ة� ����ل �ب�ل��د �م�ا ب�لة��ة��د � ا � � ص � ب �ةك ا�ا�م�� � � �ب �ة �� � � �م�ا ���د ا ه �م�ا ���د ب�ل��ة��د �ل��ل�ب� �ش���ا ��ش � �ة�ا � � �ة� � ا ��ل�� ب� ا ��ل�� بد � ب ل ا � و و و و � و ة � ة ص ة ص مص ب���ل لك ب����� ا ب ة�
138
138
٥٩،٥
٦٠،٥
٦١،٥
Chapter Five
I decided to attend their mass to obtain some indulgences. I put on the fine clothes that I’d sent for from Aleppo, and something told me to put on my turban and felt cap, my native dress. The consul was very happy to see me dressed in this way, as my outfit delighted him. I set off for the Jesuit monastery and attended the mass. On my way back
5.59
to the consul’s house, I encountered four janissaries. When they spotted me, they stopped short, pausing to take a good look. Shaking their heads, they began insulting me in their language, and growled as if they were going to kill me. I was terrified! Suddenly, one of them lunged forward, as though he were about to attack, snatched the turban from my head, and went off with his friends. I stood there, bareheaded and senseless with fright! Once they’d gone off a little way, I collected myself and started walking in the other direction, looking behind me to make sure that they weren’t coming back. I arrived at the consul’s house in that sorry state, my head bare and my wits scattered. Nicholas, the consul’s son, was standing at the door with his sister, Mar-
5.60
garita. When they saw me in that condition, they ran off to tell their father. He and my master came down to see me as soon as they got word. The consul was astonished and demanded to know what had happened. Who had taken my turban? I told him the story from start to finish. The consul was furious and immediately summoned the dragoman. “Go find the people who snatched the turban and cap off the head of our guest,” he ordered the dragoman when he appeared. “And bring them here at once!” The dragoman set out. Soon after, he sent someone to ask me where I’d been robbed. “Near the alleyway by the Jesuit monastery.” He left, and a short while later called for me again. “May I ask why you were wearing a turban and cap?” he inquired. “No one is allowed to wear such things in this country—no one, that is, except the pasha sent from Istanbul to serve as the sultan’s ambassador. Yes, only the pasha may wear a turban and cap, and the men who took yours won’t return them. Now, I worry that this is going to cause some trouble, and it’ll have been your fault. If the consul asks you about the turban, just tell him that it was returned.
139
139
5.61
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
ب� ب � بة ب � ب � ب ا ب���د � او �ش���ا �ش����ك �م�ا بة�� � ��ا �� �لة��ل�� �ة�� ���د � �م بص ����ل ا ��ر �ك���� � بو�لة����و� �م��بص ا �����م �ةرد �وه � بو ح�ة �ب� ��� ب ب � ش �ب � ا ب�� ة� ��������ا .ا�ا��� ا د ا ب� ����ا ��ل��ك ا �� ��ةهب�� ب � ش ا ش ة � ��ر�عص ا �ل���� ��ص ��ل�� �و���ل��ة� ة� � ط�ة� ���د ا ا �ل���ر بب� ر � � � � �ب � � ل� ح بص د ��� �� ��د ���ه��� ب ب ب ا �ل�� ب� � ةص �ل������ ا � ��ط�ا � او ة� بة����� او ب���� ب� ���ا ب���و ا �لب�ة���ك ل � �����م ا �لب�����ص �و�م� ب�لة � ب و ب ل م ب ة ���د � ا ��ل�� ش ل���ر. ا د ا ��� �و ب ة � �ة اب �ب��ل ا ��� � ة ��� � ب ة �ب ��ة�� ة� ��ا ��ل �م� مع ك� ��ل�� � ��ا � ��و ب� ���لة� ب� � او �و���د �ة�� �ب�ا �ة� �ب �� ��و�ل �ل��ل�هب�� ب ��ر �ب� � �و���ل��ة� � �ل م ب ب � � ة ب ب � ة �ش���ا �ش��� � او �� ��ة��ا �و�و�� � او � ا �� �� � ح�ة� ا �لب����س��� �ب�ا ��سس����ب� �م ب��� �ب ��ة ��و��ة� �ل�� �ب�ا � ��ة� ����ل �ب�ل��د ة� رة� ة م ة �م � � �� ا ��ل ش ا ��ش � ا �� �ة ا � � �ة � � � ��� ا � � �����ل �م ب �ب��ب ����ل�ك ��ا ب� �ة����بعم ب� �م ب ب ة ة� ص �ربج ���ة� لب����ص ���� ص و ��� وو� و�ل� ب���ل �ل �ر ب�ط ب� ص � � �ة � ا ب �ب � � �� �� � � ة �ة ة � � ة �ل ة � ��ر� �ب�ا �ة ب����ةع ة� �م� �لب����س��� �لة��ل�� �ة�� ���د � �ة� ب� ع ا �ل� ر ب �م� � �ة� ����ل ك�ل م � او �س���م� �ل�ب���ص �� ب ��صة� م � ب ا ب ب � �� ة ب � ب � �ا ب ا � ا �� �� ش ا ��ش ب ا � ب ��ر�ل��لب���د ا �ب��ل�م�ا �ا ��� ����ا � ب��� ا بل ك� ا ��ة� ���ةص �م� �ر�ل ا ��ه� � حب�ة��� ���ه� �� � ب�� ب��و �ة� ا ل���� ص �� ب ة ة م � � ����لب�� ب���ة��� �ا�م�ا بد ا �م�ا ��ل�� ة ��س��� ب��ا ب� �ك�� ���ا � ا �� ك� ل��ل�� � �م� ا ��ل��ةر ب��م�ا ب� ب���ة��ا ��ل ���� ��و� ا ��لب������� حب�ة��� � م ب و ة ة� �ة� ة ج مع ب � �ة ب � � � ب� �ب ب ب ة ة � ب � ة � ة � ا ط� ���د ب�ل����د � ��ا � � ح�� و�ل� �س��ك � او ��� ��ة� �م��ة� ������ة� ����ل ك��ل� �م �ود ���ل ة�ل����د ا � � ب ح� �م� ا � ة ة ة ة ب � ب ا ا� ا � ب� �ة � ا � ا �� ة ب ب ���د ا �ل �م����ل��م� ���ل�م�ا ا ��سس���و�كب�� ��ا ������ل ا � ���دا �م �ود ��� ��ة� ا �م�ا �م�� �و�ه�و ���� �م� ة��ده ����� م� ب� �ل�ك ة ة ةب ب � ة � ا ���� ة ا ��ل ش ا ��ش ب ح�ة��� �ل��ل������� �ب���ا ب��د ب���ة�� � ���د ا �ب�� �ةل��ل������� � ���د ا ا �� �كة ة ب���ة ا � � � � � �� � ��� � � س� � �� ة� م� لب ��ة� برة ك ب ص بب ب ب و ��ة� � ً ب � �ة � ة ��ر �ب�ا �ة� ا � �و� ا �لب�������. ���ا �م����ل��م� ا �مة�ش���ل � �� ��و�ل ا � ��هب�� ا �ة� ب� ج ة ب� ة ب �ب ب حبع ة ��ل�� �� ��� �بة ب � ب ة� ة� ا �ب � �ر� ��ة� ا ��ر�ة� ك�ة ��� ا ع�م��ل ا � ��ل��ل�� �م� �و���ل��ة� �و� � � ة ل ة ���د � ك���� ب��� ب����ب�ة� ب ا � ة ب ة ة � �� �ب ب ة� ة اب ا � ب ة ا� ا ب ا ة � � � او � ��ل� �و���ل��ة� ب�لة������ة� �م� د ا �م� ب�ل��لب������� �� �ل��ر�م� ا ���و�ل ا �ة� �م���ل��مة� ��� ار �ب� ��� �م� �و���ل��ة� ��ا ب � ����ل ب �� ����ب�ة�ب � � ا � ب���ل�م�ا ا ء �م����ل�م ��ا ب� ا �� ��ةهب � ا �� ��ةهب �� ��� ���د ���� �ب� ا ب �� �مب�� ا ب��ل � � ل � � � ك � � � � � � و ر � و ب ة � ب ة و ة� ب ة� ر ة� ر بة ة ر ر � � ة � ب � �� � � هة ا �� ا �ة�� � �ب��ل ا �� � ا �� ��ةهب� � ا ب ا �� �ة � ا ب � ا ا ا ��ل ش ا ��ش ا � �ل� ��ا �ل�� بر� ة� �� ح�� ل� ص�و� ��و �� �م� �م � ��ر ب� � ل� ر ب �م� � م� ب�� ب� ���� ص م ة م ع � �ب ا � ب � �ب � ة ة ة ب ب ب � ب � � ا ا ا ب ب � ��را ��ة� �ع��ده ��را �ل��ر ب��م� � �و���د ا ا �ل��ر ب��م� � ك�� � ا ���ل�� ة�����ة�ر � او ���ل�� ب�� �ب�� ا � ��ه�� ��ا ������ل ا ح� م بً شة ب حب� � ة ا ب ا ب ة ��ل�� ب��� ا ب� �ةرده ا ��� ا ��ل��ة��م�ا ب� ب���ل�م�ا � �ه�ه �و��س�م�� .ا ��ة�را ا ��ره �ب�ا � ��ر ا �ل��ر ب��م� � ا �م� �م�� ا �ل � ل ة � � �� � ب � � � �ة � � � ب ��� �ب ا ب ح ب��د � � ���ب �� ��� �م�ا �لة��� ب ��� � ��ا ب� � � ةر�و ا �ة� ع��د ا �لب�ة��ك �وة���ل� م ط � �� ةح� ��� ص رة� ب � ب ة ب� �ل ب ة� وة بر ة ةص رب ج ج ا �ب ��ل � � � �و�ا ب���د �م ب��� ا �ل ش����ا ��شص �و�ر������ ا �ة� ه �ة� ا ��ا �ل. ة ة ة� �اب �ب�ب � � �ة � ا ب �� �ب ���ع ا ب ا � �� � ب � ا ب � � � � � � ك ا ع � ا م � � � � � ا � م ربج ل� ر ب �م� � ص م� م� و ه�و �ة ر � ة�� ة �ل � �ج ة� ��د ا لب�ة��ك ب ب �� �� � ب� � ة �� ��� � ا بد ا ب ح ب��د � � �ل�ب � ب��ص ا ب��ل �� بةل�� � �� �ر�� � بو��م��ر�كة��� ��ة� ا ��لب�ة���ك �م�ا �ب�ة�رد ك��ل ا �وه ا � ��هب� � � � � � و و ة ر ر ر ة ب م ب ب 140
140
٦٢،٥
٦٣،٥
٦٤،٥
Chapter Five
That way, we’ll nip this in the bud. The soldiers here are a tough lot, you know. They’re split up into regiments, and protect each other. They certainly don’t fear the bey when they get up to mischief.” As I listened to the dragoman, I didn’t let my true feelings show,80 and
5.62
promised to tell the consul that I’d gotten the turban and cap back. If he told me to wear them, I’d beg off by saying that wearing them was forbidden in this country, so I’d rather not wear them if he didn’t mind, to avoid any trouble. The dragoman and I agreed on this response, and I kept my calpac on until the consul came down for lunch. “Did they bring you the turban?” he asked. “Yes,” I replied. “Why aren’t you wearing it?” he asked, and I replied as I’d agreed with the dragoman. “Go put them on, and don’t be afraid,” the consul said. “No one will harm you while you’re staying with me.” He went in to have lunch with my master, and when I failed to follow them in, he sent one of the servants to summon me to the table. “What’s the matter?” he asked. “Why aren’t you wearing the turban?” “I’ll put it on tomorrow.” “I’d like you to put it on now.” “Obey the consul’s orders,” my master said. What was I supposed to do? I was afraid that if I told him I hadn’t gotten it
5.63
back, I’d cause a lot of trouble. But if I told him I had gotten it back, he’d ask me why I wasn’t wearing it. I was compelled to take my master aside privately and tell him that I hadn’t received the turban. Meanwhile, the consul awaited my reply, and when my master realized that the consul demanded an answer, he was forced to explain the circumstances. Hearing that the dragoman hadn’t gotten the turban back after all, the consul summoned him. This dragoman had once been a prisoner who’d converted to Islam, and the consul had taken him into his home in order to bring him back to the faith. When the dragoman appeared before him, the consul rebuked him, cursed him, and ordered him to go to the bey. “Tell him that I want him to seize that soldier, flog him with a hundred lashes, and take back the turban and send it to me immediately!” The dragoman left the consul’s presence, unsure of what to do. If he went to the bey—who’d never refuse the request of his brother, the consul—the soldier
141
141
5.64
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
ب ش � � ب � �ة � ب�لة��ة��و� ا �ل��� ���ط �و�لة����ة�ر ����� �ل�� ب�ب��ر ب�كة��� ��م�ا �ع�م��ل بل ك� ��ر ب�ل��ل ا ��م�ا �ا � ا �ة� �ع ب��د ��ل�� �م ا � ��هب�� ة ب م ج ا �� ب�ة ا ة � � � ة � ا � � �ب��ل ا ���م� ا ب � � �ب ا � ا ا �� ا ب ا � ا �ش�� �لة ا � � م � � � � ا � � �ا� ا ح � �� ��� ب� �ة� لك ح�� ���� �ب� ب ر �وة� �م� ��و د �ل�ك � �ر�و ة� �و� �ة� �ة� ��و ب� � و �ة م � ب � � � ب � � ة ا ��ل��� ���ط� ��ا �ب�� �ةر����� ا �ل ش����ا ��شص � او � ��ة��ا �و�و�� ��� ا �ل ��ا �ل �� ��ط�ا ا ��ر�ه� � او ������ل�� ا ��ة� �ع ب��د �ه� ل ة� ب ة م م � �بك �ل �� � �ة � ا ب ���� � ��وه ل�ل� ر ب �م� �. �ة ا �� � � ا ب � ������ � ب ة ا �� �ة ب � ب �� �ب ة � ة ��� � �و ��ة���ل�� �ب�ا ب� ا ب� � ��ره �ه�� �و � �� او �ل� �ب� �� ة ل� ����ح� حة�ة��ا ���ة� ا ���و ب��ا �� ��ر مص طر � م ة م ة ب ب � � حب �� هة ا ��ل����ك ��� �ش��� �م�ا بل� حب ���و ب� ب��ا ���ط ه ������ � � � �ل �� �مب����و��� �ب�ا ب� ا �ش�سةم �� � � � � ب �� ا ��ة� �ة� ة� ة ر ص ة ر بة ر ةب ص ة ة �مب �� � � ب � �ة � ب � � �ة � ا ب �� � ب ا �� ��ة ا � � � �� ش ا ��ش ا �� �ة ا �ة ب ه � ��ط�ل� ع ا ا � م ل � ا � � � � �د � � � � � � �� � � � � � م � � ��� � ل ب � ر و ب ب� ص و وو� ع مص ح�� ر بع ر � ة� � � �ب ب � ��ل � ���ا �ب�ا �ش��ة�� ة� ا ���و ب��ا �ة� �مب����وه �ب�ا �ب�� �ةر �و� ة� ش��سةم �� � او � �� ��ره ح� حب� �� �ل�� �ب�ا �ل��د �ة� ب�ر�ة� � او � ا �و ب� �� ة ة ج ب � ب� ا �� � �ش � � � ش � ا ا ب ب � ل � � � � ا ��لب�ة���ك ��� ��� �م� بة�ر��ص ا �ل��س ك� �� �وه � او ���د ا ه ا �ل����ل� � �مص �ع��د ه� � او ��د ب�� �طره �مك� ا �و�ص�وه ة� ة م م � ب � ة � ح ب �د ا � � ب ا �� ��ةهب� � ا ب ا ����ب � ا ش ب � ��ا �ب���� ب�ل��ا د ب� �� ا د �ل��ك ا بل � ح��د �ة� �م���ل �م� �ب��ر�ة��د � او �ل����ل� �م� .ة��ً �ر�ة� � ��ر ب� � � ب م ة و ب � � � ة � � ب ة ة � ب ش � ة ا �ل ش����ا ��شص � او �لب������� ��د ا �م�� ��������ل ة� �مك�� ا ��ر�� �و�لب����س� ا �ل ش����ا ��ص � � ل��بص ���ل�ب�ة� ��ر�ع�و ب� �م بص �ل��ل�ك ة ب � ش ا� ا �ب � ��ل � �و��� �ب�ل� ��ص �و�م� ك� ���د �ب��و��ب� �ل��ب��� ا ��ل ش����ا ��شص �ب��ر�و� ا ب� �� ة� ا ��ة��د ا ب�رب� � ا ح بص�ود �لة��ل�� �ة�� بر ة� ب��ة�� ة� � ة ص ة ة ج ب � � ش � ش ا �� ��ةهب � � ا �ل ش����ا ��ص � او �لب����ص ا � ��ة���لب �صة�. ��رك��� ة� ا �����ل �� ج � � ة �ب ب ة ة ��و� �ا�م�ا � ب� ��ر ة��م�ة�ر � او ا�ام�د �� ��ر � او �و�ل��ده ��ع ة� �م بص د �و� �ة� �اة�لة��� ��ة� ���ل ب� �كب�� �و�كب�� � ب ا �ة � ب ّ � ب ب ب � � � ا� ب � � �م���� �ب � ة � ة ح ب� ��ة� �و�ع�م��ة� ا ��را �م �و�ب��ر ح� ����ل�م� ���لة��� �و���ة� ا ب�ل��� �لة����و�ل� ا�م�د ��و� �� ���� ر ر ��ب � ب ّ ا� ا��ب ة ا� ا��ب � � � � ب � ب � ة ب ب ة ة ا ب ال �وا ب� حك ��ة��� ��ة� �م� ك��� �� ��ل �ع��ده ��ة� ��ط ارب�ل��ل��ص ا ����رب� �و����� ا �ل����و� ا � ��ة� ب�ر� �م� ك��� �� ة � � ة ب � ا ط� �وا ب��� ب� ��و��ل ���وك� ���ا �م����ل��م�. ح��� �� ب�م� �و�ه � � ب ة ة � ب ب ةة ب � ب ب �ب � �� ��� ا �� ك� �وب�ر ب� ل��ل�� �م ���� �م�ا ل ب����ا ��ة� � ���دده ��ا ��س����م ب��ا ��ة� �م�دة�ل ب��� ��ط ارب�ل��ل��ص ا ����رب� ��ة� ب��ة�� ة� ة ة ع � � �ب � � ة ب ��و� �م�ة��د ا � �ش�ل�� �ش�� ب �ة ��و� ��� ا ك�� ��ر �ة�م�ة�ر� او ا�ام�د �� ���ل �و ش���رب� � او � ش��� ار � ��ط�و�ل �ةل��ل�ك ا�ام�ده �كب� � � ةص م ة� ج ش ا �ش � ���ش ة �� �ب ��ل ب ا �ع ب ا � ب ا � ا � � � � � ا �ة ب�� � � � ا � � ل� ح ب��ا ��� ا ��سة�� ك � ه ����ة�ره � � ��� ح��� �ل� ب ��ل � ر ك�ل . ل��ص ���د �� ص ة�� و �ر ب ة� م ا ب �� ب ة ة ب �ب ��ب � ب � �ة ة ب � ة� � � � ا � � بو�����ده �ا د �م���ل��مة� ة����� �ر ا �ة� �م�دة�ل��� � ��و���ص ا ����رب� �مص ا �لب��رح�ة� ة�ل ���ربج ���ة� �ل�لك ا �ل��م� �ص ب� ب ب �ة �� ب ب ب اب � ب � ب� ب � او �ل��ا ���ة� ���ل�م�ا ا �ب��ر ا � ��هب�� ��ر �ب��د �ل��ك � ارج� ا ��ة� �ع��د ا �لب�ة���ك � او ��د �مص �ة��ده �ر�م� � ا �و � ب � ة ب ��� د � �ة� ���ا � �ب �م����ل ب ��ل � ���� �و� �� ��مة�� ا ��ل � ��ا � ا�ا�م�و ب� ح ك� ح�م��. �ودة� بص ��ة� ��ط �ر��ه ب��ا د ا ���ل ا � ب� ر� � �� � �م م ة ب ة ة و ة ة� �ة� ع
142
142
٦٥،٥
٦٦،٥
٦٧،٥
٦٨،٥
Chapter Five
would be summoned and flogged. The soldier’s regiment would revolt and it would cause an unspeakable mess! So he didn’t actually follow the consul’s orders. Instead, he went to the senior members of the janissary corps and told them the whole story. Upon hearing it, they ordered the soldier’s commanding officer to have the turban and cap sent immediately. He followed their orders, and they handed the turban and cap over to the dragoman. “Please convey our regards to His Excellency the consul, and tell him that
5.65
the senior janissaries insisted that His Highness the bey should not be troubled with something so trivial,” they said to the dragoman. “The consul may rest assured that we’ll ensure that his rights are respected, and will take care of the matter ourselves.” The dragoman returned to the consul with the turban and cap. He told him what happened, and how the senior janissaries had prevented him from going to complain to the bey about something not worth complaining about. “They send you their greetings, and assure you that they will discipline the soldier as you’ve requested.” The consul ordered me to put on the turban in front of him, so I did. But I was afraid that I’d run into those soldiers again while I had it on. They’d surely kill me without giving it a second thought! So, whenever I left the consul’s house, I’d always take off the turban and wear the calpac instead. After I returned from my travels, I saw the consul Lemaire in Aleppo, along
5.66
with his children. I went to see him and his son Nicholas. He welcomed me warmly and treated me most honorably. He told all the khawājahs about me, how I had stayed with him in Tripoli, and about the things that had happened while I was traveling in the company of Paul Lucas, my master. Back to our story. We remained in Tripoli at the consul Lemaire’s house
5.67
for thirty days, eating and drinking and enjoying ourselves. We saw many things, but I’ve decided not to mention them all so as not to make this account too long. My master decided to journey by land to the city of Tunis next, so that we could tour its sites and territories. He told the consul about his plan, then went to see the bey, from whom he received a firman—an order—written in his own hand, recommending my master to all the governors under his jurisdiction whom we might encounter along our route.
143
143
5.68
� �ا ��بل ا � ب� ������ل ا � �م��ص
ً ة ا �� ب با حب� � ب �� ا ب��ة�را �هة��ا ��ل ب��ا ب�� او ده � او �ب ه � او � ��ر���ه��ده � ب���ل �� �طر ب��ة� � ب���ل �� ��ص �م�ل�ج � او �م��ةص ر � �� � � ب ة �ب � ا � ���ا ه �بك�ب��ا ��ا �ب�� �� ش م���ة�� ب��ا ���� ك��ة��ه ب��ا � او �ب�� �ل� �ة� ��ط��ل� �ل ب��ا �ع بص ب��ل�� �� ب��م���م�ا ا �د �ب�ا � �ول��ل�ك ا �لب��ل��د ة ب ة وو ة ع � ً ب � ب ب ب ة ب ب ب ب ا با ب �و�� .ا ��ة�را �ود �ع ب��ا ا � ��هب�� ��هة� ا �م�ا � ا ��م��ل ا �ل��د �ع ب� �و����ا �ر �م بص ��ة�ر �� ��ر �و���� � �ر� �مص � � � ب ب � ة ب �ب ش ب ة ب� ة ا �� ���ط ا �ل��ل�� ة��ا �ب ل�� م���ة�� ب��ا ��� �ةل��ل�ك ا ����طر�ة� � او � ��بهة��ا ��� �م�ده �م����� � � � � � ا � � � � � ���د د � � � � �� � ل و ة و ب ة ص م ص ص رب ص ة ة ب � ب ب ب � ب ب ب � ب ب � ة ب � ب ح�بس��ا � �� �� ��ط�ا �س��ا ��ا ب ��م� �ب ا � �ل�� � � �� � � ��س� � � ك���ه ب ا � ك���ل ا �� � ك� � �ر� ���ة� ة �� و �م� ��ر ���ة� �ة �� ��د ���ل و �ربج ���ة� �ل ة � و �ة� ب� ��ةس���ا �و�م�ا ة� ش��سب��� د �ل��ك. � او �ا ب� ا ب���ًا � ����ل ب��ا ا �� �م�د �ل ب���ة � ��� ب���ل�م�ا د ب���ل ب��ا ا�ا�م�د �ل ب��� ���ا � ا ا ���� ا�ا�م�د �ل ب��� �لة��ب� �� �س ا �بك�ب��ا ةر و ة ة� ة ب بر �و ل ة ة ر و ة � � � � ب ب ب ب � � ب � ب ة � ��ل���ب��� ا � �ب�ا �ع �ل��� ب ةص ا �ر�ة� �وة�����ا ��� او �ع ب��ا �ل��د �ل��ك ا � ����ا ��طر ب��ة� ا �ل��د �ة� ك���ا � �م�ه ب��ا ��ا ��ا ��� � م � و ةرب ب ب � �م � � � � ب � �� � ب � �ة ب ب ��ا � ب � � � � � ا � ��ة� ���ط�ا � ب��� �ب�ا ب� ����ل � ب���ل � ك� ح�ة��م �وك� � ع��د ب�لة��ك �ط ارب�ل�ل��ص � او �ل�� �اةج ا �ة� م�دة�ل�� ��و���ص ة � ب ا �� ة � � � ة ا� � � � �ه ب��ا ك .ا ب���ًا ا � ة �� ا ��ا �س��د ��ل�ب��ا �� ا �لب���ل��د ب��د � �� او ب���ل�م�ا �و���ل�� ا �� �ل�لك ا � �� ار ��� ة� �� � � � � ح� � � � � � ةر � ة ر ة ة ة� ة م م � ب ة ��لا�� ب ب ب ���ط��ل ب �ا ا بد ب � ة ا ة ا ب ب � ا ب ا ا ا� ب�� ��ره ا ح�ة� �ب��د ���ل � �� او ب��� ح� ب�� � �� �م� �كب����د �م� ا ��س�� �� �� او �ل ب�� د ���ل ب�� ا �م� �م ا�م�د ��و� ب� � �ب � ب � � ��ا �ع ��ط�ا ه �م����ل��م� د �ل��ك ا �لب��ة�رد �ة� ا �ل��د �ة� ا �ع ��ط�ا �ب�ا �ه�و ا �لب�ة���ك. ة �ة � �ب ب �ل ا ة ا �ب �م� ب ا ب ش � � �ب ��ب� ة ا �ب�ا ا �� ب �ة ا ب � � � � � ل � � ا ه ك ه �� �م� � ه م ك � � � � ح � �� � � � � � � � � �� � � � � ح � � � � �� � � � � ةر �مة� و ب ص و ب � ة و ر ب ة� ر و � �م � � ا ة�ر ب�� ����ب ��� � . حة�ب�ً�د ����ا � ب��� ا ��ل����ك �ع بص �م����ل��م �م�ا �ه�و �و�م بص ا �ة� �م��ل�� �ب�ا ب� حب�ة��� �ب�ا �ب�� � ك ح��ة�� � ة ب م بة � ة م ة ب � م � ب ً � ب ب ب � � ب حة��� �و ب��م ���ا �م�ا ��ه� ��ا ب� �و�ه�و �بر� حة�ة��� ا ��ة� ���د ه ا �لب��ل��د ��� �ر�����ا �و�ة� ا �ل�����ل �ك����ا ���ة� ا �ة� ب� ة بة ب ب � ح ش ا ش ا�ا� � ده �ب � ا � � ا �ب ب ا ة ���ة���لة���ل�� �ة�ا � �س��د �ة� ���د ا � ب���ل ����ة� �ةو�ل� ��ط��ل ب� ب������ص ����� ة���ص م�و ب � ة �و �ة� ���ل �ل�� ��ة� ج � ��ل����� ا ��ل � �� ح�م��. بل � ب ب � � ب � ب ب ة ب ���دا � ��ا � ���م��� �ب�ا ا�ا ش ا � با � � حة�ب�ً�د ا د � �ل ب��ا ��� ا ب�ل � م���ر�و ب� � بو�����ده ���ل�و��ص كب����د �م� ب��ل��س�� ا ��ر ا ل م ب ة و ة ً ا ���ب ��� � ا �� �ة ����ا دهة �ب�ل��د �ه� .ا ب��ة�را ���ط��ل ب� �م بص �م����ل��م �ب�ا �ب�� ���ا�ةر ��ل�� �و ب� �ه�وه �� �� �م���ده ��ط���� و � � � ة� م ة �ع ا �ة ش � ب �� ب � ا� ���ل �ش���� ��ب� ا ��ل ��ا ��ل ب����ة��ة��ا �ة�ا ه ب���ل�م�ا ا � ك� � ة � � � �ل ����د �ة��د �و مص ب� ار ه �م� ب�لة���د � �ة� ك��ل � او � ا ك� ة ة ة ح�ة�� ا ة� م�� ��مة� ة ً ب ��ا �� ��� ��ل��ك �مب�ه ��ب� ���� ا ��ل�� بد �ة� �ة�ا ��ل�� ���� ا ��ل �� ب���ة���ل�� �م����ل��م �ةر �ة ب ا ب ا � �و ب� � او د ا ا ��سس�ع�م��لة��� �� ة ل ع��� ا �� �برك ب ة ة� م � ب ب ة ة ة ب � � ة ة ش ة ة ش � ش ة ا ا ا ا ا ب � � � � ��� � �و�م� ���� ��سس� ��ل�م� ��م� ����ة� ��ل� ��� ا �ة� �م ب�ل �� ��و�ة� �م���د��ك � بو�ل����ود �� ك���ل �م��ص �� ار � ��ة� ا �ل � ع ب بع ة ش �ب � ش ب ا �ب ��ل ا � ��ل� ب ا ب � ب ا ب ب � ب ش ة ب ا�� ��ا ��� �ر� � او ��س�ب�����ر �ة� ا �ل��م��� �و �ة� ا ا �� �ل ا ��ر �ب� � ة���� ��ط� �و� �م��ر�ل �م��ر�و��ص �و���هة���ةص �م� ك���ل ج م � � � ة ب ا ب ب � ب ا � ب � � ا� ب ب � �ب �� � � � ب ب� �و�م ش��� ب� � او ��ط�ل�ه�� ��د ��ل�� ا ��� د �ل�ك ا�م��ر�و�ل �و �� ا ل ��ا �ل ��بط� بم � �م����ل��م� د �ل��ك ا�مب�ه� �و� �و�ه�و ر ة ة ة ج 144
144
٦٩،٥
٧٠،٥
٧١،٥
٧٢،٥
Chapter Five
The bey had ample provisions prepared for us and summoned a muleteer
5.69
who was trustworthy and of good character. He placed us in his care and ordered him to take us at our preferred pace, and not to protest at any of our requests. These lands were safe enough to transport gold through them, and one could travel without fear. At last the consul bid us farewell, and we set off from Tripoli, headed for Tunis. We traveled the roads and crossed the deserts for five whole days, but went at our own pace. Each time we passed a village, we’d stop and observe the peasants, the organization of the village, its farmland, and so on and so forth. Finally, we arrived at the city of Djerba. The people scrutinized us when we
5.70
entered their city as they could see that we were foreigners. They asked the muleteer about us. “This man is a doctor who was staying with the bey of Tripoli,” he said. “He’s on his way to Tunis to treat people there.” We asked for directions to the governor’s palace, and they pointed the way for us. When we arrived at the palace, we asked permission to enter and meet His Excellency the governor. We were admitted into his presence, and my master presented the order the bey had given him. When the governor read it, he smiled broadly and welcomed my master.
5.71
I served as their interpreter. “Who is this man?” the governor asked me. “Which community is he from?” “He’s a Frankish doctor, of French origin.” “Why did he come here? What is he looking for?” “He’s a traveler, my lord, searching for certain medicinal herbs found in this country,” I explained. He invited us to sit down, and ordered the servants to bring us something to drink, along with some sweets and coffee, as was the custom there. He told my master that he’d developed a severe stomach pain, which made it difficult for him to eat. Whenever he ate something, he’d immediately vomit. I told my master what the governor had said. “Not