The back in the day bakery 9781579654580, 1579654584

Citation preview

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more than 100 recipes from the best little bakery in the south

Cheryl Day & Griffith Day with Amy Paige Condon

Foreword by

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Paula Deen

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Copyright © 2012 by Cheryl Day and Griffith Day Photographs copyright © 2012 by Squire Fox Foreword copyright © 2012 by Paula Deen All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced—mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying—without written permission of the publisher. Published by Artisan A division of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. 225 Varick Street New York, NY 10014-4381 www.artisanbooks.com Published simultaneously in Canada by Thomas Allen & Son, Limited

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Day, Cheryl.   The Back in the Day Bakery cookbook: More than 100 recipes from the best little bakery   in the South / by Cheryl Day and Griffith Day; with Amy Paige Condon; foreword by Paula Deen.    p. cm.   Includes index.   ISBN 978-1-57965-458-0 1. Confectionary. 2. Cookbooks. I. Day, Griffith. II. Condon, Amy Paige. III. Title.   TX783.D39 2012   641.86—dc23         2011031794

Design by Susan E. Baldaserini Printed in China First printing, March 2012 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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For Natalie. Your laughter lives forever in the bakery.

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CONTENTS

Foreword by Paula Deen

viii

Introduction  

1

The Method to the Magic   5 The Baker’s Tool Kit   8 A Peek Inside Our Spice Cabinet

11

Chapter 1: Breakfast   13 Chapter 2: Coffee Cakes, Quick Breads, and Chapter 3: Chapter 4: Chapter 5: Chapter 6: Chapter 7: Chapter 8: Chapter 9:

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Sweet Yeast Breads   41 Cupcakes and Cakes   63 Pies, Cobblers, Crisps, and Tarts 101 Puddings and Custards 141 Cookies 157 Brownies and Bars 189 Confections 207 Savories 223

Resources

249

Acknowledgments

252

Index

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FOREWORD When Cheryl and Griff Day asked me to write the foreword for their first cookbook, of course I was honored. But, honestly, I didn’t know where to start. I couldn’t decide if I should start by introducing them as a wonderfully hardworking couple with a sweet tooth for delicious food, or if I should start by telling y’all about how their bakery is quickly becoming one of the must-eat-at places in Savannah. Or should I instead rave about all of the mouthwatering recipes you are bound to find in this cookbook? The truth is, I’m just so lucky to have people like Cheryl and Griff in my life whom I can consider friends. So, finally, I figured I would start at the beginning, which seems appropriate for the beginning of a book, doesn’t it? I was first introduced to Cheryl by my wonderful creative director, Brandon Branch. Immediately I knew that I had to feature her on my show, because we started cutting up right away, just as if we had always known each other. I truly felt a unique, unspoken bond with Cheryl. You see, it takes a special kind of person to create what she has created for herself and for others, and I recognized that instantly. Cheryl communicates with people through her food, and it’s obvious in everything she makes. If you’re lucky enough to have her serve you one of her Old-Fashioned Cupcakes, well, the smile on your face is almost payment enough for Cheryl! I have to tell you that the first time I tried one of those cupcakes, it nearly brought tears to my eyes because it reminded me so much of the ones my mama used to make for me. Furthermore, Cheryl and I share a sincere passion for cooking and serving others that goes beyond words. And that right there is the perfect recipe for success in this business: equal parts passion and determination—mix until well blended. But it’s not only our passion for food and good company that brings us together.

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Dining at Cheryl and Griff’s place is a total experience from start to finish, and it goes further than just the food. If you’ve never eaten at Back in the Day Bakery, then you have missed out on a delicious treat. You absolutely must do yourself a favor and come on down to Savannah and see what it’s like for yourself. From the moment you step into the shop, sure enough, you’ll find Cheryl front and center, laughing, carrying on, and welcoming all of her guests as if she personally knows each one of them. She has such a gift for making anyone feel at home, and that is always so refreshing to find in a time and age when people often forget to sit down, relax, and have a cupcake. Both Cheryl and Griff’s sense of style and the vintage look of their restaurant stir within me a deep connection to days gone by. When I eat at their place, I feel as if I have been transported to a time when I was a little girl sitting in my grandmother’s kitchen, listening to her tell stories of when she was a little girl. There is a sense of yesteryear floating in the air. It’s like a blast from the past. The 1950s-inspired decor, beautiful pastel color palette, and fabulously crafted foods nearly take my breath away each time I visit.

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In fact, Back in the Day has really become a total Deen family affair, and it is one we’re not ashamed to admit! My beautiful niece Corrie loves Cheryl and Griff’s food and bakery almost as much as I do. We recently had her bridal shower there on a sunny Savannah afternoon. The girls had such a hoot, and I couldn’t keep my hands off all of the delectable cookies, breads, and savory tarts. To tell the truth, in many ways Corrie is like a daughter to me, and it meant so much to me to host this important event in her life in what turned out to be the perfect venue. It was a day that both Corrie and I will cherish for the rest of our lives. You see, that’s what Cheryl and Griff are good at. Not only do they bake decadent treats, but they also bake wonderful memories that stay with you forever. My older son, Jamie, and my darling daughter-in-law, Brooke, enjoy taking my sweet grandbaby Jack down to the bakery on Saturday afternoons. Jamie and Brooke love going because of its small-town, friendly

neighborhood feel, so they try to make it a weekly tradition. You know, I just love that we are able to find a place where we can share our lives, the way that Cheryl and Griff share their food. I cannot wait for you to try the recipes in this book, and I hope that you have the same experience with Cheryl and Griff’s treats that I do. From Cheryl’s Old-Fashioned Cupcakes to Griff’s Chocolate Bread, they are made so honestly from the heart, and I think that’s what I admire most. This is a cookbook that you are going to want to hang on to. While I encourage you to share it with friends, just make sure they are willing to give it back, because they may want to keep it for themselves! Love and best dishes,

foreword

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breakfast

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INTRODUCTION Sometimes I ask myself, “Who does that? Just opens a bakery?” But Griff and I did. We opened Back in the Day Bakery in August 2002. We wanted to build a community by baking fresh, wholesome cakes and artisan breads based on recipes passed down through family and friends. We knew we wanted to establish a neighborhood bakery, so we searched to find an area that was centrally located and easily accessible to the many neighborhoods that make up the city of Savannah. We chose the magically named Starland District; it was being revitalized, and we wanted to be a part of that transition. We transformed the circa-1925 building, the former Starland Dairy general store, at the corner of Bull and West Fortieth Streets, into our little American bakery. If you’ve ever visited Georgia in the middle of August, you understand that the only thing people talk about is how hot and humid it is. Tourists stay away, and the locals escape to Tybee Island, waiting for any cool breeze that blows. The fierce afternoon rains provide no relief from the heat, but you almost always catch a glimpse of a rainbow on the drive out to the beach. Savannah becomes a kind of ghost town in August. Then, after Labor Day, when people come back from vacations and the students and faculty from the Savannah College of Art and Design return to town, the city reawakens. Those first days in our new business moved slowly, but before long, our little corner bakery became the buzz of Savannah. The folks who discovered us brought their friends, and soon there was something to talk about besides the weather. As with most things in Savannah, word of mouth spread about the bakery and our homespun baked goods. Griff and I had dreamed of opening a gathering

spot that would become a food destination for locals as well as those visiting our beautiful city, and in a short time, it looked as if we had achieved that. Griff and I didn’t start our careers as professional bakers or chefs, but food had always played an important part in both our lives. You know how you can meet up with someone again, and no matter how long you have been out of touch, you can pick up exa­ ctly where you left off? Griff turned out to be one of those people for me. We met through mutual friends while I was attending college in Illinois. Griff was playing in a funk and R & B band in clubs throughout the Midwest. As someone who had been a Soul Train dancer as a teenager, I loved to dance. Music was our common passion. But after I left college, we lost touch. We reconnected fifteen years or so later through the Internet, after my sister, Natalie, and I had relocated to Savannah. This time around, Griff and I realized that we had even more in common than a love of music. We also loved good food. We talked about our fav­ orite neighborhood restaurants and bakeries, and we began re-creating our favorite meals together. After he moved to Savannah, I introduced Griff to stone-ground grits and sweet wild Georgia shrimp, tastes that he had never experienced growing up in Minnesota. He elevated our Tuesday taco nights with fish tacos made with red snapper (abundant in Savannah’s waters), fresh herbs from our balcony garden, and handmade corn tortillas. We dressed them with an assortment of savory jams and heirloom sauces, which would end up on our lunch menu years later. I learned firsthand that Griff has a way of enhancing

introduction

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even the simplest ingredients to bring out their best. I have always been a fan of crazy ideas, and I thought opening a bakery could be one of them; in a good way, of course. We were up for the challenge, and we started getting serious about bringing an authentic Americanstyle bakery into the heart of the South. After dinner, we would work on our sweet recipes, experimenting with and fine-tuning the flavors. We invited friends over to taste-test, and they enthusiastically encouraged us to pursue our new venture. We knew there was a market for the rustic breads and home-baked goods that we wanted to make. Griff researched equip­ ment, contractor requirements, inspectors, state and local permits, and all the intricacies and bureaucracies involved in opening a food establishment. He was the one who started to make things happen and turn our dream into reality. Inspiration came from reading the stories of others around the country doing the same thing we wanted to do. And we found good people who encouraged us and lifted us up. One of those good people was our friend Jane Thompson, owner of the late, great Mondo Bakery in Atlanta. She became our mentor, teaching us how to take the leap from the home kitchen to a real bakery. It was on-the-job training with a serious learning curve—we called it Jane’s Boot Camp. She was full of practical advice, and we looked up to her because she had accomplished what we wanted to achieve. She inspired us to move forward. Yes, we could in fact start a bakery with two KitchenAids and one 40-quart mixer. Jane taught us about speed and rhythm in the kitchen, balance and impact in the bakery cases, choosing the perfect coffee blend to draw in customers, and the importance of constructing an environment where no detail is overlooked.

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At Back in the Day Bakery, we’ve created an atmosphere that is both comfortably oldfashioned and hip. The vintage-industrial aesthetic rings authentic. The chandeliers drip with faded crystals. Old-school ballerina cake toppers fill glass cookie jars. The worn red cement floors, midcentury bakery cases, layers of vintage wallpaper artfully peeling off bricks, and a collection of Easy-Bake ovens (including my first one!) look and feel as if they’ve always had a home here. Guests tell us that the bakery makes them feel nostalgic for a simpler and sweeter time. Griff and I were introduced to baking in our mothers’ and grandmothers’ kitchens. Much of our homespun style stems from summers I spent in Alabama with Grandma Hannah and afternoons baking with my mother in Los Angeles. From them, I learned the true essence of Southern charm, along with many other wonderful life lessons. Legend has it my first full sentence was “Are you having a good time?” As I grew up, I became a girl who could entertain a crowd with good food. I loved helping my mother bake sweet treats and hearing about our family history. Ever since I was young, I’ve been fascinated with the process of making something delicious with just a few simple ingredients, and as long as we had butter, sugar, flour, and eggs in the house, you could always count on something sweet coming from our kitchen. Griff still remembers the jar of bread starter that his mom kept on the kitchen counter to use in pancakes and breads. His northeast Minneapolis neighborhood was filled with Italian groceries, eastern European delicatessens, and butcher shops. He would wander the aisles of the shops and sample whatever the folks behind the counter offered, learning new flavors along the way. He was drawn to these places, especially the

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neighborhood bakery and its fresh breads, not knowing at the time how much the authenticity of these spots would influence him later. We believed that by offering home-style baked goods, fresh breads, and an inviting place to relax, we could eventually have the best bakery in Savannah, no matter how long it took to get there. Griff had read that the make-it-or-break-it point for new businesses was three to five years. Six months turned into twelve; one year turned into three. We struggled at first to find employees willing to do what we do our way. Our standards were high, and we knew it, but we wanted to remain true to our philosophy: sourcing the best ingredients, baking from scratch with love, and presenting our customers with a consistent product every single day. Sometimes we lost track of how long we’d spent on our feet baking. Griff and I couldn’t even make it out of the bakery long enough to get married, so we exchanged our vows right in the middle of the lunch rush one Saturday! Reflecting on those early days, I’m not really sure how we did it. The bakery saints must have been watching over us. We built our business on passion, and there were moments that put our dreams to the test. As our business grew, my sister, Natalie, helped us up front. She was the only face customers saw besides our own. She was our biggest cheerleader, and she gave us daily encouragement and inspiration when our work schedules seemed never-ending. She always pitched in to do whatever needed to be done. When she passed away suddenly in 2006, Griff and I were devastated. Our world came to a stop. We weren’t sure how we could carry on living our dream without her in our lives. In our saddest hour, customers rallied around and supported us. This gave depth to the clarity of our vision, and we saw what community truly meant. They embraced us

with love beyond anything that we could ever have imagined. From our customers, we learned that our bakery was more than just a business selling treats—it had become the community we had longed to create. It is a place for people to gather, share stories of their lives, and enjoy the food we make. Our bakery is based on the love we put into our food and the belief that business is personal. By staying focused on this simple concept and with an intense work ethic based on perfection and quality, we have reached our goal of becoming a Savannah food landmark. What we bake makes our customers happy, and for us, that is the icing on the cake. Now we are excited to share with you the desserts and meals we have made specialties of the bakery: chocolate chip cookies with fleur de sel, muffins infused with cardamom and mace, chicken cobbler with root vegetables and fennel pollen, and simple piecrusts to turn you into a fearless pie maker. We perfected these recipes in our home kitchen and at the bakery over the years. By following our step-by-step instructions, you will gain the confidence to make these homespun dishes in no time. Griff and I hope this book will become your favorite kitchen companion, with dog-eared pages marking the recipes you return to time and again and chocolate dribbles from where you made a little mess sampling a batter. With this cookbook, we are inviting those who can’t make it to our bakery to slow down and taste the sweet life in their own kitchens.

introduction

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THE METHOD T0 THE MAGIC There’s a mystique that surrounds baking: some think you have to be a chemist or a magician to make a piecrust flaky or a cookie crumble just the right way. Even after all these years of baking, Griff and I remain fascinated by the process of mixing just a few simple ingredients together and creating something wonderful. The fact of the matter is, though, there is a method to the magic, and it is accessible to everyone. Baking requires practice and patience. It is a science, and learning how to measure your ingredients properly and understanding the details of a recipe will make you a better baker. We have all had the experience of creating a tough cake or a piecrust that could be mistaken for a floor tile. You feel inadequate when a recipe doesn’t work out. While baking can be simple and fun, it does require mastering techniques that will give you those delicious results we all want to achieve. However, once you learn the fundamentals and how to use all of your senses, you can bake for your family and friends and earn bragging rights for your delicious victories. Here are some of the fundamentals I teach to our baking assistants and in my cooking classes.

Get It Together

The French term mise en place means, literally, to “put in place.” It makes a big difference to have all of your ingredients measured and ready to go before you start to mix. So do like the TV chefs do and assemble your ingredients before you’re ready to bake. Always begin by reading your recipe through to make sure you have a clear under­ standing of the process involved, as well as of all the ingredients and tools needed. For

instance, cake and cookie recipes usually call for room-temperature ingredients, and pies and pastries require some cold ingredients. And in baking, as in many other things, timing is of the essence. The last thing you want to do is have to run around the kitchen preparing your cake pans or getting your eggs up to room temperature after you’ve started mixing. Start with a clean kitchen and have everything prepped to go. Once you are orga­ nized and have your tools ready, you will have the confidence to mix and bake like a pro.

Temperature Matters

Always bring your ingredients to the temper­ ature called for in the recipe before you begin baking. This is what my grandmother taught me so many years ago, and I assure you, if you follow this rule, you’ll get the best results. When a recipe calls for eggs at room temperature, it is critical that you bring them to room temperature. Here is why: if the eggs are too cold when added to your perfectly creamed butter, the butter will seize up, deflating the air bubbles that you have created, and the batter will resist mixing completely. If that happens, the air bubbles will not expand during baking and the result will be a flat, dense cake, not one with the fluffy and tender crumb that you want. I know this from experience. I understand being in a hurry, believe me! When I’ve got five or six things to get out for the bakery’s opening and special orders to get done by midday, I look for good shortcuts. Here’s a quick and easy way to bring eggs up to room temperature: put the whole eggs in a small bowl of hot water and swish them around for about 1 minute, being careful not to bang their delicate shells against one another.

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Bringing butter to room temperature is important too. If you have an instantread thermometer, the proper temperature is between 65° and 67°F, still cool but not cold. You can either pull the butter out of the refrigerator 30 minutes or so before you are ready to bake or cut it into small cubes to speed the process of bringing it to room temperature. A few visual and tactile clues can also help you determine the proper temperature. You should be able to make an indention with your finger on the surface of the butter, but the butter should be slightly firm, not hard— and definitely not squishy. If the butter gets too warm, label it, then return it to the refrigerator for future use in something that does not require creaming. Start again with fresh butter. Another point about temperature: an oven thermometer is one of the most important tools in a baker’s kit (see page 8). If the oven is not hot enough, rising will be inhibited, and that means flat cakes and even flatter cookies. Use an oven thermometer to make sure your oven has reached the desired tempera­ ture and is calibrated correctly. And always preheat your oven for at least 20 minutes (30 is preferable) so it reaches the proper temperature.

The Ingredients Are Key

It is important to have a clear understanding of the role each ingredient plays in the baking process. In baking, it’s never okay to substitute ingredients or to skip over steps and think it will all work out in the end. Take the unassuming egg. Eggs perform so many important functions in baked goods and other desserts, such as custards and soufflés. They leaven, thicken, moisturize, and enhance flavor. Whole eggs, as well as just yolks, act as great emulsifiers. The lecithin in egg yolks

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binds fats and water, which normally resist each other. Eggs and oil can become mayonnaise, or the key components in the moist texture and delicate crumb of a Chocolate Heaven cake (page 82). Eggs also provide structure. When egg whites are whipped to stiff peaks and folded into a batter, the air trapped in the whites will expand in the heat of the oven during baking, acting as the leavening agent for such light and airy desserts as Banana–Chocolate Chip Cupcakes (page 74), Deep, Dark Flourless Chocolate Cake (page 94), and Plum Custard (page 151). Baking soda and baking powder are both leaveners as well. They create chemical reactions in a batter to force air bubbles to expand during the baking process. Baking soda requires the presence of an acid, such as sour cream, buttermilk, molasses, nonalkalized cocoa powder, or brown sugar (which contains molasses), to name a few. Baking powder reacts without the presence of acid. Once it is combined with a liquid, such as milk, it releases carbon dioxide, creating air bubbles that cause a cake layer or a biscuit to rise. Baking powder made with aluminum compounds has a chemical aftertaste. We use aluminum-free baking powder in all of our recipes that call for this ingredient. It may cost a bit more, but you will notice the difference in the way your baked goods taste. Aluminumfree baking powder is available in the natural foods section in supermarkets or online from King Arthur Flour (see Resources, page 249).

Measuring Flour

When you measure flour, you want to first loosen up or fluff the flour a bit with your measuring cup or a spoon. We recommend storing flour in a canister rather than in a flour sack so that you have plenty of room to dip and

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scoop. Spoon the flour into your measuring cup until it is heaping, then sweep a straight edge, such as the back of a butter knife, across the top to level the flour. Do not tap the cup to settle the flour.

Creaming Butter

To produce the perfect texture in cakes and cookies, you must master the art of creaming butter, the foundation of so many recipes. Most cookie and cake recipes start with the words “cream the butter and sugar” or “beat the butter and sugar together,” often without any explanation of what that actually means. They fail to tell you that if you don’t do this step properly, the result can be disastrous. If your butter is too cold, it will not whip properly. If it is too soft, it will not retain air. The most important factor in creaming butter and sugar is the temperature of the butter (see “Temperature Matters” on page 5). When a recipe calls for creaming butter and sugar, you want to beat the softened butter and sugar together until the mixture is light in both color and texture; this incorporates air into the structure. (We’ve included time estimates in all the recipes to give you a sense of how long this step will take.) This is where science comes into play. The creaming process aerates the butter; air bubbles are literally forced into the butter mixture. These air bubbles expand during baking, making cookies light and tender and cakes delicate and buttery. Once you master this technique, you will be amazed to see what a difference it makes. Your cakes will have a light, delicate crumb and your cookies will be melt-in-your-mouth delicious.

bowl into another bowl to make sure it is completely mixed. This may sound like a waste of time, but trust me on this one. Mixers work great, but sometimes they need the help of a rubber spatula or your handy dough scraper. There is nothing worse than finding a trail of butter or flour at the very bottom of the bowl when you are scooping your last cookie. Your entire batch could be ruined. I don’t like to wash extra dishes any more than most people do, but this is a step that I find worthwhile.

That Extra Step

You will notice that many of our cookie recipes tell you to transfer the dough from the mixing

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THE BAKER’S TOOL KIT Just as a carpenter needs a hammer and nails to frame a wall, the baker requires some essential tools to create successful cakes, pies, cookies, and other dishes. Griff and I looked around our kitchen and noted which tools we couldn’t live without.

Appliances

4- to 5-quart stand mixer Handheld mixer

Utensils and Gadgets

Bench scraper Box grater Candy thermometer Digital instant-read Pots, Pans, and thermometer Baking Pans Dry measuring cups 6- to 8-quart heavy-bottomed Fine-mesh sieve nonreactive stockpot Heat-resistant silicone 2- to 3-quart heavy-bottomed spatulas nonreactive saucepan Heat-resistant spoons 10-cup Bundt pan Ice cream scoops—small Two 9-inch round cake pans (39 mm/1K tablespoons) 8-by-8-by-2-inch baking pan and large (52 mm/ 9-by-13-by-2-inch baking pan 3 tablespoons) 9-inch springform pan Kitchen blowtorch 9-by-5-by-3-inch loaf pan Kitchen scale 10-by-5-by-3-inch loaf pan Kitchen scissors 9-inch pie plate Liquid measuring cups 9-inch deep-dish pie plate (the kind with pouring 9-by-9-by-2-inch square pan spouts) Two 12-cup muffin pans Mandoline Two or more 12-by-17-inch Measuring spoons baking sheets

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Microplane Offset spatula Oven thermometer Pastry cutter/blender Poly dough scraper Rolling pin Silicone-bristle pastry brush Straight spatula Strainers and colanders Sugar duster Wire whisk

Extras

Parchment paper Pastry bags and tips Four to six 4- and 6-inch ramekins Silpats (silicone baking mats)

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A PEEK INSIDE OUR SPICE CABINET If you were to join us in the bakery kitchen, you would find these spices and other seasonings in our cabinet. We use them in the recipes throughout this cookbook, both the sweet and the savory, to layer flavors. Most of these seasonings are readily available from your local grocer, but some we purchase from the spice vendors listed in our Resources section (page 249).

Allspice (ground) Aniseeds Black pepper (freshly ground) Cardamom (ground and pods) Cayenne pepper Chili powder Cinnamon (ground and sticks) Cloves (ground)

Cream of tartar Fennel pollen Fine sea salt (see Tip) Fleur de sel Ginger (ground) Granulated garlic Herbes de Provence Italian seasoning blend

Lavender (dried) Mace Nutmeg (ground and whole) Red pepper flakes Rosemary Thyme Vanilla beans White pepper

At the bakery we use only fine sea salt (sel de mer) and fleur de sel, a more coarsely ground finishing salt from France. We like the good flavor they add to both sweet and savory dishes. However, you can substitute table salt in any of the recipes that call for fine sea salt, using the same measurement.

a peek inside our spice cabinet

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C H AP T E R 1

Breakfast My mom enjoyed the quiet moments of early morning. She rose in the dark at around five and went about her routine, listening to her favorite morning radio show, This Thing Called Life, which was broadcast throughout Southern California. As soon as Dr. Bill shouted, “Good morning, friends!” at seven, Mom would wake my sister, Natalie, and me from our sleep. She would say in her sweet morning voice, “Rise and shine,” and carry in a cup of “coffee milk” (milk with a splash of coffee) to get us going. Griff wakes me up exactly the same way each day. “It’s time to rise and shine,” he says at 3:30 a . m . Griff’s body clock gets us to the bakery every morning in time to make the rustic breads and the pastries our customers have come to rely on to start their days. (Let’s just say the bakery would never open in the morning if it weren’t for Griff!) By 4:30 a . m ., we’re in the car headed to the bakery. Like my mother, we have come to enjoy working in the peaceful moments before the sun rises. We keep the lights low. The only sound track is the hum of the refrigerators, the whir of the mixers, a timer beeping, and the beat of a whisk against the side of a stainless steel bowl. Griff’s routine is a kind of meditation. He mixes the bread dough, lets it ferment, cuts and shapes the individual loaves, proofs them, and then slides them into the oven to bake. While he’s working on the bread, he runs through the day’s lunch prep in his mind. I measure and set out the ingredients for cupcakes and frostings, mix chocolate chip cookie dough, and scoop batter into muffin

tins. We speak very little. We are in the zone— our comfort zone. Griff moves on to making Ham and Cheese Pastry Puffs (page 28) while I gather the dry biscone ingredients. The bakery is filled with the sweet scent of CinnamonSugar-Doughnut Muffins (page 20) baking in the oven and the caramelized notes from a pot of bacon jam (see page 235) slow-cooking on the burner.

Buttermilk Biscones p. 14 | Homemade Jam p. 17 | Blueberry Muffins p. 19 | Cinnamon-SugarDoughnut Muffins p. 20 | Carrot–Golden Raisin Muffins p. 23 | Mocha-Oatmeal Muffins p. 24 | Cranberry-Orange Muffins p. 25 | Peach Cobbler Muffins p. 27 | Ham and Cheese Pastry Puffs p. 28 | Guava–Sweet Cheese Turnovers p. 30 | Buttermilk Cornmeal Pancakes p. 33 | Baked Eggs with Grits and Ham p. 34 | Chewy Granola Bars p. 36 | MapleCinnamon Granola with Dried Fruit p. 37 | Hot Chocolate Mix p. 38 |

Before we know it, the front-of-house team arrives to stock the cases for the day. As the lights go up, our customers are greeted by the sound of the bell jingling above the door, the smell of fresh sourdough loaves pulled from the oven, and the clicks and grind of espresso beans for cappuccinos. The rhythm quickens throughout the day, but it’s those early morning hours, peaceful and serene before the neighborhood wakes, when Griff and I most cherish being bakers.

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BUTTERMILK BISCONES tender, light, and fluffy

1K cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1K cups cake flour (not self-rising) N cup granulated sugar 2 tablespoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free

We make our “biscones” with Southern flair, using lots of butter and a mix of all-purpose and cake flours to get as close as we can to the White Lily flour my grandma Hannah favored. If you’re lucky enough to find White Lily, substitute 3 cups of it for the flours called for here. You’ll end up with a crispy, flaky biscone just like my grandma used to bake. Makes 10 to 12 biscones

O teaspoon fine sea salt N teaspoon ground cardamom K pound (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into K-inch cubes 1 cup dried fruit, such as sour cherries or currants (optional)

1K cups buttermilk, or as needed 1 egg, beaten with a pinch of fine sea salt, for egg wash N cup Cardamom Sugar (page 22) or coarse sanding sugar for sprinkling

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flours, granulated sugar, baking powder, salt, and cardamom and whisk until completely incorporated. Add the butter and, working quickly, cut it in with a pastry blender. You should have various-sized pieces of butter, from sandy patches to pea-sized chunks, and some larger bits as well. Add the dried fruit, if using, and toss to distribute it evenly. Gradually pour in the buttermilk and gently fold the ingredients until you have a soft dough and there are no bits of flour in the bottom of the bowl. You should still see lumps of butter in the dough; these will give you light and flaky biscones. If the dough seems dry, you may need to add a little more buttermilk. The dough should be moist and slightly sticky. Gently pat down the dough with your hands right in the bowl until it resembles a loaf of bread. Dust the top of the dough lightly with flour. Using a large ice cream scoop, scoop mounds of dough onto the prepared baking sheet, arranging them about 1 inch apart so that the biscones have room to rise and puff up. Lightly tap down the tops of the biscones. Brush the tops of the biscones liberally with the egg wash. Sprinkle with Cardamom Sugar or sanding sugar. continued

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Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through for even baking, until the biscones are lightly golden and fully baked. Serve warm or at room temperature. These are best eaten the day they are made.

Applewood-Smoked-Bacon Biscones Omit the sugar and the dried fruit. After cutting in the butter, add 10 slices applewood-smoked bacon, cooked and roughly chopped, and 1½ cups shredded extra-sharp white cheddar cheese.

Blueberry Biscones with Lemon-Zest Glaze After cutting in the butter, add K cup blueberries instead of the dried fruit. Use fresh berries if in season; if you’re using frozen berries, add them unthawed. While the biscones are baking, whisk O cup confectioners’ sugar with the grated zest and juice of 1 lemon in a small bowl until smooth and creamy. Drizzle over the slightly cooled (for approximately 10 minutes) biscones.

Cinnamon Biscones with Vanilla Drizzle After cutting in the butter, add K cup cinnamon chips instead of the dried fruit. Use whole milk instead of buttermilk. While the biscones are baking, whisk together O cup confectioners’ sugar, 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract, and 2 tablespoons milk in a small bowl until smooth and creamy. Drizzle over the slightly cooled (for approximately 10 minutes) biscones.

WHAT IS A BISCONE? One of the most valuable lessons I’ve learned since opening the bakery is how to make a virtue out of necessity. Traditional biscuits and scones require mixing the ingredients, rolling out the dough, cutting the dough, and then baking. Our revolutionary one-bowl, no-roll technique saves time, and the result is a tender pastry that marries the fluffy, delicate texture of a Southern buttermilk biscuit with the rich, buttery flavor of an English scone. (With this simple foundation, you can go either sweet or savory.) By mixing the ingredients until they are just combined, you avoid overworking the dough—you don’t have to knead it, or even turn it out of the bowl. You simply scoop each biscone with an ice cream scoop right from the bowl. The technique is a bit of genius, if you ask me.

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HOMEMADE JAM naturally sweet and bright

2 pounds fresh berries, such as strawberries, blackberries, or blueberries

When Griff and I travel, I often pick up a jar of locally produced jam, knowing that the flavors will remind me of our trip. There’s just something about opening a jar of fresh berry jam in the middle of winter and spreading it on a warm biscone. This simple and flavorful version won’t take much time to make, and it’s a fun thing to do with your kids on a lazy afternoon. Makes 2 pints

4 cups sugar Grated zest of 2 lemons N cup fresh lemon juice

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Candy thermometer Mason jars with lids (optional)

Rinse the berries in a colander under cold running water; drain. Hull strawberries and cut into quarters; leave smaller berries whole. Put a small saucer in the freezer while you boil the jam. Put the berries in a large, heavy nonreactive saucepan and toss them with the sugar, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Cook, stirring, over low heat until all the sugar is dissolved, about 10 minutes. You will notice the mixture begin to rise and foam around the edges of the pan. Gradually raise the heat to high, stirring often, and continue to cook, stirring constantly and gently scraping the bottom of the pan so the mixture does not stick. (If the mixture does begin to stick, turn down the heat slightly.) The mixture will start to boil slowly as the berries release their juices; continue to boil, stirring frequently, until the jam reaches a rolling boil or registers 220°F on a candy thermometer, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the mixture rest for a few minutes, then carefully skim the foam from the top. Return the pan to the stove and cook until the juices begin to gel, about 5 minutes. The jam should look glossy and dark at this point; this is when you should begin to test for doneness. Place Sweet Note: Turn Your Jam into a teaspoon of the jam on the cold Jam Butter plate. Return the plate to the freezer Jam butter made with your homemade jam is an for 1 minute. If you can make a line easy and delicious way to layer flavors on scones, through the jam with your finger, it’s biscuits, breads, and muffins. ready. If the jam still is too runny, In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the continue to cook and test it until it is paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, ready. Let cool. using a handheld mixer), cream O pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, Store the jam in an airtight container until light and fluffy. Add 5 tablespoons of your in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, favorite jam and mix until combined. Serve at or seal it in Mason jars according to room temperature in small cups or ramekins. the manufacturer’s guidelines. Jam butter will keep in a sealed container in the refrigerator for 1 week.

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BLUEBERRY MUFFINS full of plump berries

2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1 cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free K teaspoon fine sea salt

For years, I refused to use anything but fresh berries in our muffins. Then one day I made the muffins using some blueberries that I had frozen earlier in the summer. I was thrilled to find that the “fresh” frozen blueberries baked beautifully. If you use frozen berries, add them before they have thawed. Makes 12 muffins

N teaspoon ground cardamom N cup canola oil 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted K teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2 large eggs O cup whole milk 1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries N cup Cardamom Sugar (page 22) or coarse sanding sugar for sprinkling

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly spray 12 large muffin cups with vegetable oil spray or line them with paper muffin cups. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, salt, and cardamom until thoroughly combined. In another bowl, whisk together the canola oil, butter, vanilla, eggs, and milk. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, pour in the liquid ingredients, and mix just until combined. Gently fold in the blueberries, using as few strokes as possible; be careful not to overmix. With a large ice cream scoop or spoon, scoop the batter into the prepared muffin cups, filling them approximately two-thirds full. Sprinkle the tops with Cardamom Sugar or sanding sugar.

Sweet Note: Freezing Berries I like to buy as many pints of berries as I can at the farmers’ market and freeze them so that I can get the fresh fruit flavor all year long. Here’s the best way to do it: Rinse the berries in a colander and spread them out on paper towels to dry thoroughly. When they are dry, line a baking sheet with parchment and spread the berries out on the pan, then place the pan in the freezer for about 30 minutes. Once the berries are hard, put them in an airtight container or in Mason jars and keep them in the freezer until ready to use or for up to 6 months.

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Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the muffins are golden brown. The tops should be firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin should come out clean. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes. Turn the muffins out of the pan and enjoy warm or at room temperature. The muffins can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

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CINNAMONSUGAR-DOUGHNUT MUFFINS perfect for dunkin’

FOR THE MUFFINS

3 cups unbleached allpurpose flour N teaspoon baking soda 2K teaspoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free O teaspoon fine sea salt N teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

At least once a week, someone comes into the bakery asking for doughnuts. Don’t get me wrong: we love doughnuts too, it’s just not what we do. But we don’t want unhappy customers, so we created an ode to the doughnut in the form of a muffin with a cakey consistency and a sweet cinnamon coating. It’s baked, not fried, and it tastes just like an old-fashioned doughnut. Makes 12 muffins

N teaspoon ground cardamom O cup plus 2 tablespoons whole milk 2 tablespoons buttermilk 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature O cup sugar 2 large eggs

FOR THE DOUGHNUT COATING

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted 1 cup sugar mixed with 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

To make the muffins: Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly spray 12 large muffin cups with vegetable oil spray. Sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, nutmeg, and cardamom. In a medium bowl, combine the milk and buttermilk. In a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer on medium speed, cream the butter for 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the speed to low and gradually add the sugar. Continue to mix until the mixture lightens in color. Add the eggs one at a time, beating just until combined. Add the dry ingredients in thirds, alternating with the milk mixture, mixing just until smooth; do not overmix. With a large ice cream scoop or spoon, scoop the batter into the prepared muffin cups, filling them approximately two-thirds full. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the tops are firm to the touch and lightly golden. While the muffins bake, set up two bowls to dunk them in. In one bowl you will have the melted butter, and in the other bowl you will have the cinnamon sugar. Let the doughnuts cool completely on a wire rack. Dunk them in the melted butter, then coat them with the cinnamon sugar. The muffins can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

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Sweet Note: Sugar and Spice Flavored sugars add another dimension of taste and texture to scones, muffins, pies, and cobblers—and even to your morning tea or coffee. They are easy to make at home. Fill a 1-quart Mason jar with granulated sugar and add your choice of the following flavors: For Vanilla Sugar, split 2 vanilla beans in half and scrape the seeds into the sugar. Add the bean pods and seal tightly with the lid. The flavor will be more pronounced if you wait 2 weeks before using. You can keep this sugar almost indefinitely in the airtight jar; just replenish with more sugar after each use. The vanilla beans should stay fragrant for up to 1 year. For Cinnamon Sugar, add 3 tablespoons ground cinnamon and 2 to 3 cinnamon sticks to the sugar and seal tightly. Store for up to 1 year. For Cardamom Sugar, add K cup whole green cardamom pods to the sugar. Seal the jar and store for up to 1 year.

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CARROT—GOLDEN RAISIN MUFFINS intensely rich and moist

1N cups unbleached allpurpose flour O teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free O teaspoon baking soda N teaspoon fine sea salt

When the days grow shorter and you’re craving something warm and filling, these molasses-infused muffins are a great way to start your day. The flavor gets a nice bit of spice from the cinnamon and molasses. Makes 12 muffins

O teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 large eggs, at room temperature K cup vegetable oil N cup blackstrap molasses O cup granulated sugar

1K cups firmly packed grated carrots N cup golden raisins Turbinado sugar for sprinkling (see Tip)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly spray 12 large muffin cups with vegetable oil spray or line them with paper muffin cups. Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon together into a large mixing bowl. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, oil, molasses, and granulated sugar. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry ingredients and mix just until combined. Fold in the carrots and raisins with as few gentle strokes as possible. With a large ice cream scoop or spoon, scoop the batter into the prepared muffin cups, filling them approximately two-thirds full. Sprinkle the tops with turbinado sugar. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the muffins are golden. The tops should be firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin should come out clean. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes. Turn the muffins out of the pan and serve warm. The muffins can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Turbinado sugar, also referred to as raw sugar, is a product of the first pressing of sugarcane. It has a higher moisture content and fewer calories than white sugar and is a natural by-product of the sugar refining process.

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MOCHA-OATMEAL MUFFINS a healthy morning muffin

1K cups unbleached allpurpose flour L cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder, sifted 1 cup packed light brown sugar 1 teaspoon baking soda K teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free

These muffins are a dichotomy. On the one hand, they are filled with good-for-you oats and walnuts. On the other hand, the rich flavor of the chocolate may make you feel a little guilty for indulging in such decadence so early in the morning. Makes 12 muffins

1N teaspoons fine sea salt K teaspoon ground cinnamon 1N cups quick-cooking oats, plus extra for sprinkling 4 large eggs 12 tablespoons (1K sticks) unsalted butter, melted 1 cup buttermilk

K cup freshly brewed strong coffee 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 cup mini semisweet chocolate chips 1 cup chopped walnuts Turbinado sugar for sprinkling

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly spray 12 large muffin cups with vegetable oil spray or line them with paper muffin cups. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, brown sugar, baking soda, baking powder, salt, and cinnamon until thoroughly combined. Stir in the oats. In another bowl, whisk together the eggs, butter, buttermilk, coffee, and vanilla. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry ingredients and mix just until combined. Fold in the chocolate chips and walnuts with as few gentle strokes as possible. With a large ice cream scoop or spoon, scoop the batter into the prepared muffin cups, filling them approximately two-thirds full. Sprinkle the tops with oats and turbinado sugar. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the muffins are golden. The tops should be firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin should come out clean. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes. Turn the muffins out of the pan and enjoy warm or at room temperature. The muffins can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

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CRANBERRYORANGE MUFFINS tangy with citrus freshness

Our neighbors to the south in Florida, the Sunshine State, start picking oranges during the late fall months, at the same time cranberries from the North start popping up in the produce aisles. Their sweet and tart flavors play against each other so well. This muffin is a fixture on our holiday menu from Thanksgiving through New Year’s Day. Makes 12 muffins

FOR THE MUFFINS

2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1 cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free 1 teaspoon fine sea salt N teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 large eggs N cup canola oil 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted O cup whole milk 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 2 teaspoons orange extract

N cup good-quality orange marmalade 1K cups fresh cranberries FOR THE GLAZE

2 tablespoons orange juice 1 cup confectioners’ sugar

To make the muffins: Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray 12 large muffin cups with vegetable oil spray or line them with paper muffin cups. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg until thoroughly combined. In another bowl, whisk together the eggs, oil, butter, milk, vanilla, and orange extract. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, pour in the liquid ingredients, and mix just until combined. Gently fold in the orange marmalade and cranberries, using as few strokes as possible; be careful not to overmix. With a large ice cream scoop or spoon, scoop the batter into the prepared muffin cups, filling them approximately two-thirds full. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the muffins are golden brown. The tops should be firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin should come out clean. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes. To make the glaze: In a small bowl, whisk together the orange juice and confectioners’ sugar. When the muffins are cool, drizzle over the tops. The muffins can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

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PEACH COBBLER MUFFINS bursting with peachy flavor

2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour O teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon fine sea salt K teaspoon ground cinnamon

June and July in Georgia means peaches are at their peak. You can buy crates of them at Davis Produce on the way to Tybee or at the Forsyth Park farmers’ market on Saturday mornings. With chunky pieces of fruit and spicy notes, this twist on a classic summer dessert lets you take cobbler on the go. Makes 12 muffins

O cup granulated sugar 1 cup buttermilk 5 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 large egg O teaspoon pure vanilla extract K teaspoon pure almond extract

1K cups peeled, cubed (K-inch cubes) fresh or unthawed frozen peaches Turbinado sugar for sprinkling

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly spray 12 large muffin cups with vegetable oil spray or line them with paper muffin cups. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and granulated sugar. In another bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, oil, egg, vanilla, and almond extract. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry ingredients and mix just until combined. Gently fold in the peaches, using as few strokes as possible; be careful not to overmix. With a large ice cream scoop or spoon, scoop the batter into the prepared muffin cups, filling them approximately two-thirds full. Sprinkle the tops with turbinado sugar. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the muffins are golden brown. The tops should be firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin should come out clean. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes. Turn the muffins out of the pan and enjoy warm or at room temperature. The muffins can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

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HAM AND CHEESE PASTRY PUFFS salty and spicy, with a hint of sweetness

FOR THE SPICE BLEND

K teaspoon onion powder 1 tablespoon chili powder 1 teaspoon dried thyme 2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper 1 teaspoon ground allspice K teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Griff’s unique spice and herb blend tastes exotic, elevating this simple breakfast pastry above the ordinary, but many of the spices are probably already sitting in your spice rack. The spices give the pastry a bit of a kick, which can be a boost for early risers. Makes 8 pastries

N teaspoon garlic powder Fine sea salt to taste FOR THE PASTRIES

One 17.3-ounce package frozen puff pastry (2 sheets), defrosted for 20 to 30 minutes in the refrigerator

K pound thinly sliced Black Forest ham K pound sharp white cheddar cheese, thinly sliced 1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment. To make the spice blend: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and mix well. To make the pastries: Unfold the pastry sheets on a lightly floured surface. Cut each pastry sheet into 4 (about 5-inch) squares. Arrange the sliced ham and cheese on the centers of the pastry squares, dividing them evenly. Sprinkle some of the spice blend lightly over each one. Fold two opposite corners of each square over the filling to make a pouch and press the edges to seal; transfer the pastries to the prepared baking sheet. Brush each pastry evenly with the egg wash. Sprinkle the tops with more spice blend to taste. Sprinkle salt evenly over the pastries. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, until the pastries are golden brown. Remove the pastries from the baking sheet and let cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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GUAVA-SWEET CHEESE TURNOVERS a tropical-flavored handheld breakfast

One 17.3-ounce package frozen puff pastry (2 sheets), defrosted in the refrigerator for 20 to 30 minutes One 8-ounce package Neufchâtel cheese, at room temperature

A sweet breakfast alternative to our Ham and Cheese Pastry Puffs, these turnovers are Griff’s Savannah interpretation of Cuban pastelitos. Guava paste’s light sweetness falls in taste somewhere between that of a strawberry and a red grape and is nicely complemented by the tangy cheese. Makes 8 turnovers

2 tablespoons whole milk 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice N cup sugar, plus extra for sprinkling 1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash

4 ounces guava paste, cut into eight N-inch slices

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Unfold the pastry sheets on a lightly floured surface. Cut each pastry sheet into 4 (about 5-inch) squares. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the cheese, milk, lemon juice, and sugar and beat with a handheld mixer until well blended. Brush the edges of each pastry square with egg wash and arrange one-eighth of the cheese mixture evenly on half of the square. Place a slice of guava paste on top. Fold the pastry diagonally over the filling and seal by pressing the edges with a fork. Cut a small X in the top of each pastry; this will allow steam to escape. Transfer each square to the prepared baking sheet. Brush each pastry evenly with egg wash and sprinkle the tops evenly with sugar. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, until the pastries are golden brown. Remove the pastries from the baking sheet and let cool on a wire rack for at least 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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BUTTERMILK CORNMEAL PANCAKES add some yum to your morning

1K cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1 cup yellow cornmeal 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Griff and I love making breakfast or brunch together on Sundays, because we are not rushed to get anywhere and we can take our own advice to slow down and taste the sweet life. These pancakes were inspired by Paula Deen’s famous hoecakes at The Lady and Sons restaurant. Servers bring them to your table hot off the griddle. They are crisp around the edges and tender in the center. Makes 8 pancakes

2 tablespoons sugar 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 2K cups buttermilk 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

Butter for serving Blueberry-Maple-Cassis Syrup (recipe follows)

In a medium mixing bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, baking soda, salt, and sugar. In a large measuring cup, whisk together the eggs, buttermilk, and 6 tablespoons of the melted butter. Whisk the wet mixture into the dry mixture until just combined. Heat a griddle or a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. (If using an electric griddle, the temperature should reach 350° to 375°F.) Grease the hot griddle with the remaining 2 tablespoons melted butter. Pour N cup of the batter onto the hot griddle for each pancake, making 3 to 4 pancakes at a time. Bubbles will start to form on top and around the edges. After 2 to 3 minutes, lift each pancake up halfway with a spatula to see if it is golden brown and the edges are crispy; if so, the pancake is ready to turn. Flip the pancake over and cook until the underside is golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes more. Serve, or keep warm on a heatproof plate in a low oven while you cook the remaining pancakes. Serve with butter and syrup.

Blueberry-Maple-Cassis Syrup | Makes 2 cups 1 cup maple syrup

K cup crème de cassis liqueur

2 cups fresh or frozen blueberries

Combine the maple syrup, cassis, and blueberries in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. The blueberries will start to burst after approximately 5 minutes. Let the syrup continue to bubble until it begins to thicken, 8 to 10 minutes. Pour into a pitcher and serve warm. If you have any leftover syrup, you can store it in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

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BAKED EGGS WITH GRITS AND HAM

a taste of the south in one dish

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove, minced O large bunch Swiss chard, rinsed, stems removed, and chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Breakfast in the South isn’t complete without ham, eggs, and grits. Griff discovered this way to make a full breakfast simple and easy. Our favorite grits come from Anson Mills in South Carolina, which is known for its heirloom varieties of corn, rice, and wheat (see Resources, page 249). Theirs are the creamiest grits around. Serves 4

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme or K teaspoon dried thyme 7 ounces Black Forest ham, thinly sliced 4 servings grits cooked according to package directions, flavored your way

N pound goat cheese, crumbled, or Gruyère or Parmesan, grated 4 large eggs Freshly grated nutmeg SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Four 4- to 6-inch ramekins

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter the ramekins and place on a baking sheet. In a large skillet, combine the olive oil and minced garlic and sauté the garlic over medium heat until fragrant. Add the chard and sauté until wilted and tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and the thyme. Divide the ham and grits among the ramekins and layer the chard and cheese on top, reserving a little cheese for sprinkling. Carefully crack 1 egg into each ramekin. Top with a little more cheese and salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste. Bake for about 15 minutes, until the egg whites are just set (or bake to the desired consistency, up to 5 minutes longer). Remove the ramekins from the oven and let cool for 5 minutes, then serve.

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breakfast

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CHEWY GRANOLA BARS honey-licious, with a salty crunch

1L cups quick-cooking oats 1 cup packed light brown sugar M cup almond flour (see Resources, page 249) K teaspoon ground cinnamon

Store-bought granola bars are packed with sugar, corn syrup, and preservatives with names I can’t pronounce and are not as healthful as one might think. Homemade granola offers a more nutritious alternative, and it’s surprisingly easy to make. Griff uses Grade B maple syrup, which has a dark amber color and a deep maple flavor. Chockfull of good-for-you ingredients, our granola bars satisfy. Makes 24 small squares

N teaspoon ground mace 1 cup salted cashew pieces, roughly chopped K cup dried apricots, finely chopped K cup dried prunes, finely chopped K cup dried blueberries

12 tablespoons (1K sticks) unsalted butter, melted 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract N cup Grade B maple syrup

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line the bottom and sides of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with parchment, leaving an overhang on two opposite sides. In a large mixing bowl, combine the oats, brown sugar, almond flour, spices, cashews, and dried fruit and mix well. In a small bowl, whisk together the melted butter, vanilla, maple syrup, and 2 tablespoons water. Add to the dry ingredients and mix thoroughly. Press the granola mixture evenly into the prepared pan. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, turning the pan around after 15 minutes for even baking, until the edges and top turn golden. Lift the sides of the parchment and transfer the slab of granola to a wire rack to cool. When it is completely cooled, remove the slab of granola from the parchment to a cutting board and cut into 24 squares with a heavy knife. Wrap the individual squares in plastic wrap and store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

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MAPLE-CINNAMON GRANOLA WITH DRIED FRUIT spice-infused, with sweet maple

4 cups old-fashioned rolled oats 1 cup unsweetened flaked coconut K cup almond flour (see Resources, page 249) 1 cup slivered almonds, pecans, or walnut pieces, or any combination thereof

There is nothing quite like granola made from scratch. Baking it will fill your kitchen with the sweet smells of cinnamon and coconut. You can experiment and create your own blends by switching the nuts and fruits with others, such as dried apples or bananas, or adding toasted seeds, such as sunflower or pumpkin. Try layering the granola with yogurt and fruit for parfaits. Makes 8 cups

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter N cup honey N cup Grade B maple syrup 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon N teaspoon ground mace

N teaspoon fine sea salt 1 cup dried fruit, such as currants, diced apricots, raisins, cranberries, or cherries (optional)

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment. In a large mixing bowl, combine the oats, coconut, almond flour, and nuts. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Remove from the heat and stir in the honey, maple syrup, vanilla, cinnamon, mace, and salt. Pour this mixture over the dry ingredients and toss together, making sure all the dry ingredients are coated with the butter mixture. Spread the granola mixture evenly on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until golden brown, stirring occasionally so the mixture browns evenly. Remove the pan from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool. Once the granola has completely cooled, toss it with your choice of dried fruits, if desired. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

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HOT CHOCOLATE MIX

The Aztecs would give our hot chocolate blend a thumbs-up because of its touch of spice and hint of heat. The cayenne offers a subtle wake-me-up without being blaringly hot. Drink your hot chocolate with some of our homemade marshmallows on top. I toast them with a skewer over the open flame of the stove to add a bit of campfire fun. After all, I was a Girl Scout.

chocolate goodness

2 cups Dutch-processed cocoa powder, sifted 8 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped O cup packed light brown sugar

Makes 4 cups

N cup granulated sugar 1K teaspoons espresso powder N teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg K teaspoon ground cinnamon

N teaspoon fine sea salt N teaspoon cayenne pepper

Combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well. Store in an airtight container for up to 12 months.

Sweet Note: Hot Chocolate for Four In a large saucepan, heat 2K cups whole milk and 2 cups half-and-half over medium heat just until steaming. Turn the heat to low and simmer the milk for 6 to 7 minutes; do not let it boil. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in O cup hot chocolate mix until smooth and creamy. Serve immediately, with Vanilla Marshmallows (page 208) if desired.

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C H AP T E R 2

Coffee Cakes, Quick Breads, and Sweet Yeast Breads Because of their portability and comforting natures, quick breads, coffee cakes, and sweet rolls just seem neighborly. Meant to be shared among family, friends, and the larger community, they are ideal for any social occasion. My maternal grandfather, John Wesley, was a preacher in Alabama. That meant long potluck lunches followed his Sunday sermons, and one of Grandma Hannah’s blueberry buckles was always on the table. Granddad’s weekly ministry took him to visit with the sick in need of healing, the poor of heart searching for answers, and the incarcerated asking for forgiveness. If my grandmother wasn’t by his side when he came to call, he surely carried her Lovely Lemon Loaf (page 54) as an offering. Griff’s mom, the typical Midwestern housewife, referenced the Betty Crocker and red-checked Better Homes and Gardens books to cook for her family. She made banana-nut bread for his school lunches, a snack Griff’s pals always wanted to trade for, which he rarely did because he looked forward to indulging in it himself. Griff’s walk to school took him past ethnic groceries and bakeries, and he fell hard for the warm, sweet, yeasty

smells billowing into the street when the doors opened. Those smells and the look of breads piled high in the cases remain some of his fondest food memories.

Irish Soda Bread with Black Currants p. 42 | Brown Sugar Banana Bread p. 45 | Pecan-Chocolate-Espresso Coffee Cake p. 47 | Cinnamon–Sour Cream Coffee Cake p. 48 | Southern Corn Cakes p. 51 | Blueberry Buckle p. 52 | Lovely Lemon Loaf p. 54 | Chocolate Bread p. 56 | Cinnamon Sticky Buns p. 59 |

We hope that Back in the Day is creating those same memories for our neighbors. The guys from the Boyz II Men barbershop walk across the street every Saturday morning to get our Cinnamon Sticky Buns (page 59). (We make these special treats only on Saturdays, so our regular customers are smart enough to stock up!) A mother and daughter who live in the neighborhood always stop in for a little conversation and a sweet treat on the walk home from school. We love that we are here for our customers as part of their morning and afternoon routines.

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IRISH SODA BREAD WITH BLACK CURRANTS

a hearty, savory loaf

1K cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1K cups whole wheat flour 2 tablespoons sugar

More than forty thousand revelers descend upon Savannah every year to get their green on through a week of festivities that culminates in the annual St. Patrick’s Day parade. We make this traditional soda bread every March in honor of the holiday. The object here is speed: when making soda bread, you should have a quick, light hand for both mixing and kneading the dough. Makes one 7-inch round loaf

2 tablespoons oldfashioned rolled oats 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 cup dried currants 1K cups buttermilk

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly flour a baking sheet. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flours, sugar, oats, baking soda, salt, and currants. Create a well in the center of the dry ingredients, add 1 cup of the buttermilk, and mix with your hands. Continue to add the remaining K cup buttermilk, mixing until you have a soft, shaggy dough—it will be moist and slightly sticky. This step should take 15 to 30 seconds; do not overknead, or the loaf will be tough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and gently knead and shape it into a domed circle. Put the round on the prepared baking sheet and, with a sharp knife, cut a cross in the center of the dome, about 1 inch deep, for the traditional soda bread cross-cut. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the bread is lightly browned and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven and let cool. Serve with butter and jam. The soda bread can be saved to make toast. Covered in plastic, the bread will keep at room temperature for 1 to 2 days.

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OUR ST. PATRICK’S DAY SURPRISE Savannahians love celebrations, and St. Patrick’s Day is actually a weeklong party all over town. You can’t imagine the magnitude until you’ve lived here long enough to tell a few tales. Ours is the second-largest parade in the nation, barely trailing New York City’s—right here in this small town. When you visit Savannah for the festivities, you can do the River Street stroll, shoulder to shoulder with thousands of people taking full advantage of the “open drink policy.” Or you can do as the locals do and pack a picnic and all of your green, then head over to Chippewa Square (that’s where Forrest Gump sat on the bench and waited for the bus). The year we opened the bakery, Griff made more loaves of Irish soda bread and I made more green velvet cake and green lemon bars than we could count. We were so pooped by the time St. Patrick’s Day rolled around, we took the day off and thought we’d sleep in. Little did we know that the quaint apartment we lived in at the time was perched just above the parade staging area. We got an early morning wake-up call when the multiple marching bands decided to blow their horns and see whose drum line was best. Soon we were up and about, enjoying all of the hoopla of the day.

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BROWN SUGAR BANANA BREAD homespun comfort

2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour O cup packed light brown sugar O teaspoon baking soda K teaspoon fine sea salt 1 teaspoon ground mace K teaspoon ground cinnamon

Here is a great way to use those overripe bananas on your kitchen counter. This moist and hearty bread with spices and walnuts is quick and easy to make. The brown sugar adds a caramel flavor that complements the sweetness of the bananas. Savor it with a little butter and a glass of cold milk. Makes one 9-inch loaf

1N cups pecans, toasted and chopped 1K cups well-mashed very ripe bananas (about 3 bananas) N cup sour cream 2 large eggs

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar for sprinkling (optional)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly spray a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with vegetable oil spray and line the bottom with parchment. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, light brown sugar, baking soda, salt, mace, cinnamon, and pecans; set aside. In a medium bowl, mix the mashed bananas, sour cream, eggs, butter, and vanilla with a sturdy wooden spoon. Gently fold the banana mixture into the flour mixture until just combined. Scrape the batter into the prepared loaf pan, spreading it evenly with a spatula. If using, sprinkle the dark brown sugar on top of the loaf. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, until the loaf is golden brown and a cake tester inserted in the center of the loaf comes out clean. Cool the bread in the loaf pan for 5 to 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature. Wrapped in parchment, the bread will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Banana Bread with Chocolate Chips Omit the pecans and fold in K cup semisweet chocolate chips instead.

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PECAN-CHOCOLATEESPRESSO COFFEE CAKE

Coffee and chocolate have a great relationship. Each brings out the best in the other. You’ll find us pairing the two flavors often to bring an extra layer of richness to what could be an ordinary bread, cake, or confection. The buttermilk gives this cake a slight tanginess. Serves 8 to 10

your morning coffee companion

2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1 cup packed light brown sugar K cup granulated sugar 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

O teaspoon fine sea salt O cup chopped pecans, toasted 3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped 2 teaspoons espresso powder

1 teaspoon baking soda 1 cup buttermilk 1 large egg K teaspoon pure vanilla extract K teaspoon pure almond extract

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 9-inch square baking pan with vegetable oil spray and line the bottom with parchment. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), mix together the flour, both sugars, the butter, and the salt until the mixture resembles coarse meal. To make the crumb topping, transfer O cup of the mixture to a small bowl and stir in the toasted pecans, chocolate, and espresso. Set aside. Sprinkle the baking soda into the remaining butter-sugar mixture, add the buttermilk, egg, vanilla, and almond extract, and mix just until combined. Scrape the batter into the prepared baking pan, spreading it evenly. Sprinkle the crumb topping evenly over the batter. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the top is golden brown and a cake tester inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Cool in the pan on a wire rack. Wrapped in plastic wrap, the coffee cake will keep at room temperature for 2 to 3 days.

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CINNAMON— SOUR CREAM COFFEE CAKE

This recipe makes the quintessential coffee cake, the kind you find in an old-fashioned coffee shop or diner, served with a steaming cup of joe. The addition of cardamom gives it a flavorful and unexpected zing. With a honey drizzle on the crumb topping, it’s fancy enough for an afternoon gathering of friends or a Sunday brunch. Serves 8 to 10

a cinch to make

FOR THE STREUSEL

FOR THE CAKE

N cup packed light brown sugar K cup unbleached allpurpose flour 1K teaspoons ground cinnamon N teaspoon fine sea salt O cup chopped pecans (optional) 3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes

2K cups cake flour (not self-rising) 2 teaspoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free K teaspoon baking soda K teaspoon fine sea salt N teaspoon ground cardamom 12 tablespoons (1K sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1K cups granulated sugar 3 large eggs, at room temperature 1K teaspoons pure vanilla extract 1N cups sour cream FOR THE GLAZE

O cup confectioners’ sugar 3 tablespoons honey

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 10-inch tube pan with vegetable oil spray and line the bottom with a ring of parchment. To make the streusel: In a small bowl, combine the brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, salt, and pecans, if using. Cut in the butter with a pastry blender until the crumbs are the size of peas. Put the topping in a covered container and set in the freezer while you mix the cake batter. To make the cake: Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cardamom; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter and granulated sugar for 4 to 5 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the vanilla and sour cream and mix just until blended. With the mixer on low, add the flour mixture in thirds to the butter mixture, mixing until just combined and no streaks of flour are visible; scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary. continued

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Scrape half the batter into the prepared tube pan and spread it evenly with a spatula. Sprinkle with O cup of the streusel. Spoon the rest of the batter into the pan, spreading it evenly, and top with the remaining streusel. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for 30 minutes. While the cake cools, make the glaze: Mix the confectioners’ sugar, honey, and 2 tablespoons water together in a small bowl. Set aside. Turn the cake out of the pan, then invert onto a serving plate, with the streusel side up. Use a fork to drizzle the glaze over the top of the cake. Wrapped in plastic wrap, the cake will keep at room temperature for 2 to 3 days.

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SOUTHERN CORN CAKES bet you can’t eat just one!

3K cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1K cups coarse yellow cornmeal, plus extra for sprinkling

Corn bread is a staple of the Southern table. There’s nothing better than a hot square slathered with butter. Our version of traditional buttermilk corn bread was influenced by the crisp-edged muffin tops that everybody loves. When the weather turns cold, you can serve them with our White Bean Soup with Bacon (page 241). Makes 24 corn cakes

1 cup sugar 2 tablespoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free K teaspoon fine sea salt

12 tablespoons (1K sticks) unsalted butter, melted 2 cups heavy cream 1 cup buttermilk 3 large eggs

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), combine the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, and salt and mix for 1 to 2 minutes, until thoroughly blended. In a large measuring cup or a small bowl, mix together the butter, cream, buttermilk, and eggs. Pour into the flour mixture and mix on medium speed just until the ingredients are combined and no longer lumpy. Using a large ice cream scoop or a ¼-cup measuring cup, scoop the batter onto the prepared baking sheets, placing the corn cakes about 2 inches apart (they will spread when baking). Sprinkle about 1 teaspoon cornmeal over the top of each corn cake. Bake the corn cakes for 10 to 12 minutes, until lightly golden and crisp on the edges. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 days. (To refresh the corn cakes, wrap in foil and reheat in a 350°F oven for about 5 minutes.) The batter can be stored in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 3 days, so you can bake the corn cakes just before serving. Add 3 to 5 minutes to your baking time if using refrigerated batter.

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BLUEBERRY BUCKLE filled with fruity goodness

I love old-fashioned American desserts with funny names like brown Betty, roly-poly, pandowdy, fool, slump, grunt, and buckle, so named because their different combinations of fruit and cake batter create distinctive markings. Here, the crumb topping craters with deep crevices, or “buckles,” as it bakes, to reveal fresh, plump berries bursting with sweet juice. Serves 8 to 10

FOR THE CRUMB TOPPING

FOR THE BUCKLE

N cup granulated sugar L cup packed light brown sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon V teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1L cups unbleached allpurpose flour 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into K-inch cubes

1N cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminumfree N teaspoon baking soda K teaspoon fine sea salt N teaspoon ground cardamom 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

O cup granulated sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract K teaspoon grated lemon zest M cup sour cream 2 cups fresh blueberries Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter the sides of a 9-inch round cake pan and line the bottom with parchment. To make the crumb topping: Combine the sugars, cinnamon, nutmeg, and flour in a small bowl and mix until well blended. Cut in the butter with a pastry blender until the crumbs are the size of peas. Put the topping in a covered container and set in the freezer to chill while you mix the cake batter. To make the buckle: Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cardamom. Set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter and granulated sugar on high speed for 5 to 7 minutes, until light and fluffy. Reduce the speed to low and add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each one. Add the vanilla, lemon zest, and sour cream. With the mixer on low speed, add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture, mixing until just incorporated. Gently fold in the blueberries.

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Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread it evenly with a spatula. Sprinkle the crumb topping over the top of the cake batter. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until the top is golden brown and firm to the touch. Sprinkle the top of the buckle lightly with confectioners’ sugar. Serve warm or at room temperature, right out of the baking dish. Wrapped in plastic wrap, the buckle will keep at room temperature for 2 to 3 days.

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LOVELY LEMON LOAF tart, citrusy flavor

FOR THE LOAVES

3 cups unbleached allpurpose flour K teaspoon baking soda K teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free 1 teaspoon fine sea salt O cup buttermilk, at room temperature

The generous amount of lemon zest and the shower of lemon soaking syrup create a cake that is moist and refreshingly tart. You can serve it with fresh berries on the side. This recipe makes two loaves, perfect for sharing! Makes two 9-inch loaves

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 cups granulated sugar 5 large eggs L cup grated lemon zest (from 6 to 8 lemons) 1 cup fresh lemon juice

FOR THE LEMON SOAKING SYRUP

O cup granulated sugar O cup fresh lemon juice FOR THE GLAZE

2K cups confectioners’ sugar N cup fresh lemon juice Lemon zest for sprinkling (optional)

To make the loaves: Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter two 9-by-5-inch loaf pans and dust with flour, shaking out the excess. Sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt; set aside. In a large measuring cup or a small bowl, mix together the buttermilk and vanilla. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter and granulated sugar for 5 to 7 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each one; scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add the flour mixture alternating with the buttermilk mixture in three additions, beginning and ending with flour. Stir in the lemon zest and lemon juice. Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans and smooth the tops with a spatula. Tap the loaf pans firmly on the countertop to remove any air bubbles from the batter. Bake for 50 minutes to 1 hour, until a cake tester inserted in the center of a loaf comes out clean. The centers will crown and crack. Cool the loaves in the pans for about 10 minutes before unmolding. Meanwhile, to make the lemon soaking syrup: Combine the sugar and lemon juice in a small nonreactive saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring often. Once the sugar dissolves, continue cooking until the syrup turns a deep golden yellow, about 5 minutes.

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When the loaves are cool enough to handle, transfer them to a cookie sheet lined with parchment. Poke holes in the cakes with a skewer and pour lemon soaking syrup generously on top of each. Repeat, until the cakes are completely moistened. Let the loaves stand for at least 10 minutes so the syrup is absorbed. To make the glaze: In a small bowl, whisk the confectioners’ sugar with the lemon juice until smooth and creamy. Pour the glaze over the tops of the loaves and allow the glaze to drip down the sides. Sprinkle lemon zest on top, if desired. Serve warm or at room temperature. Wrapped in plastic wrap, the loaves will keep at room temperature for up to 4 days.

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CHOCOLATE BREAD buttery, rich, dark chocolate

2K cups unbleached allpurpose flour N cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder, such as Valhrona (see Tip) L cup granulated sugar

The bits of bittersweet chocolate scattered throughout accentuate the sweetness and soft crumb of our Chocolate Bread. Our friend Kelly Yambor, executive chef of Savannah’s famed Elizabeth on 37th, orders multiple loaves for parties and wine tastings. You can serve chocolate bread a number of ways: with a sharp white cheddar; toasted, with a spread of Nutella; or as French toast, with strawberries and whipped cream. Makes one 10-inch loaf

1N teaspoons instant yeast 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 cup bittersweet chocolate chips N cup turbinado sugar 2 tablespoons heavy cream

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the flour, cocoa, granulated sugar, and yeast and mix on low speed. Add 1 cup water and mix for 3 minutes. Let the dough rest in the mixer bowl for 20 minutes. After it has rested, add the cubed butter and salt to the dough and mix on medium speed until the dough comes together and the sides of the bowl are clean, about 5 minutes. The dough will develop a satiny sheen. Turn the speed to low, add the bittersweet chocolate chips, and mix until incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and shape it gently into a round loaf. Put the dough seam side down in a bowl that has been lightly coated with vegetable oil spray. Cover with plastic wrap and let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free place for 2 hours, or until it doubles in size. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the turbinado sugar over the bottom of a 10-by-5-inch loaf pan. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and gently form it into an 8-by-6-inch rectangle. With a long side facing you, gently roll the dough up into a log. Place seam side down in the pan. Cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap and let the dough rise again until doubled, about 1K hours. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. When the dough has risen, gently brush it with the heavy cream. Sprinkle the top with the remaining 2 tablespoons turbinado sugar. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the sugar on top is caramelized. Let the loaf cool for 30 minutes, then remove it from the pan and let it cool completely on a wire rack. Wrapped in plastic wrap, the bread will keep at room temperature for up to 2 days.

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Valhrona cocoa powder is one of the darkest, most intensely flavored Dutch-processed cocoa powders available. Unlike other cocoa powders, Valhrona adds a deep chocolate color to the chocolate bread.

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CINNAMON STICKY BUNS a saturday-morning tradition

At the bakery, we say TGIS (instead of F)! We celebrate the weekend in Savannah with Cinnamon Bun Saturday, the only day of the week Griff makes these buns, which have a sweet-spicy filling, a caramel glaze, and a tangy cream cheese icing. Our friends from the Savannah Bee Company provide the honey that sweetens and enhances the flavor of the filling and the icing. Makes 12 sticky buns

FOR THE DOUGH

FOR THE CARAMEL TOPPING

FOR THE CREAM CHEESE ICING

2O cups unbleached allpurpose flour O cup cake flour (not selfrising) 6 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons granulated sugar 2 teaspoons instant yeast 1 teaspoon fine sea salt N teaspoon ground cardamom 1 large egg N cup buttermilk 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter 1 cup packed light brown sugar N cup mild honey, such as tupelo or clover

One 8-ounce package cream cheese, at room temperature 1 tablespoon mild honey, such as tupelo or clover 1 tablespoon whole milk 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature N cup confectioners’ sugar

FOR THE FILLING

N cup granulated sugar N cup packed light brown sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted O cup golden raisins (optional)

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Candy thermometer

To make the dough: In a bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the flours, granulated sugar, yeast, salt, and cardamom and mix on low speed for 2 minutes, or until thoroughly blended. Still mixing on low speed, add the egg, 1 cup water, the buttermilk, vanilla, and butter and beat until the dough begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl and is only slightly sticky. Increase the speed to medium and beat for 7 minutes, or until the dough is silky and supple. Lightly oil a large bowl and transfer the dough to the bowl, turning the dough gently to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free place for 2 hours, or until it doubles in size. Meanwhile, to make the caramel topping: Stir together the butter, brown sugar, honey, and 3 tablespoons water in a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar

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is dissolved. Insert a candy thermometer, bring the mixture to a boil, and cook until it registers 230°F on the thermometer. Pour the caramel into a 9-by-13-by-2-inch baking dish, spreading it evenly with a heatproof spatula. To prepare the filling: In a small bowl, mix together the granulated sugar, light brown sugar, and cinnamon. Set aside. To assemble the buns: Remove the risen dough from the bowl and place on a lightly floured surface. Lightly dust the top of the dough with flour and, using a rolling pin, gently roll the dough into an 18-by-9-inch rectangle about O inch thick. Don’t overwork the dough, or it will become tough. Spread the melted butter evenly over the dough. Sprinkle the brown sugar mixture over the dough, then sprinkle with the golden raisins, if using. Beginning with the long side nearest you, roll the dough up like a jelly roll, keeping it as tight and uniform as possible. Pinch the seam to seal the dough, and turn the dough seam side down. Using a bench cutter or a sharp knife, trim off the ragged ends of the roll (about K inch) and discard. Cut the roll into 12 equal pieces and arrange the buns in the caramel-coated baking dish, spacing them evenly in four rows of three each. Cover the baking dish loosely with plastic wrap and allow the buns to rise in a warm, draft-free place until they have doubled in size and are touching one another, about 1 hour. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Slip a foil-lined baking sheet onto the lower oven rack to catch any drips. Remove the plastic wrap and bake the buns for 20 to 25 minutes, rotating the baking dish halfway through to ensure even baking, until the buns are a deep golden brown and the caramel is bubbling. Remove the pan from the oven and let the buns cool in the pan for 10 minutes. (Caution: Do not serve the buns straight out of the oven—the caramel will be dangerously hot.) Meanwhile, to prepare the icing: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), combine the cream cheese, honey, milk, vanilla, and butter and beat for 3 to 5 minutes, until smooth. Add the confectioners’ sugar and mix until fully incorporated. Invert the baking dish onto a large serving platter, unmolding the buns with the caramel side up. Let the buns cool for 10 minutes. Smear the icing on top of the warm buns. Serve warm. The buns can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

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C H AP T E R 3

Cupcakes and Cakes I come from a long line of sweet tooths, storytellers, and bakers. My great-greatgrandmother Muddy catered at antebellum plantations in Ozark and Eufala, Alabama. Her daughter Queen, my great-grandmother, grew up to own a general store, McSwain’s, in Dothan, the part of Alabama people from the cities mean when they say they are going “down country.” Queen’s daughter Hannah was my grandmother. She learned from Muddy how to make the ginger squares they carried to box suppers and church socials. Hannah passed these recipes on to her own daughter, my mother, Janie Queen. Grandma Hannah had a big wooden farm table in the middle of her kitchen in Tuscaloosa, big enough to roll out dough and decorate cakes on. We spent a lot of time together during the summers when I stayed with her, baking cakes, pies, and cookies to share with friends and neighbors. We would pull brightly colored floral, gingham, or ruffled aprons from her big drawer and tie them on, just like we do in the bakery today. She would mix the batters in her heavy ceramic bowl as I counted the number of turns she made with the wooden spoon. Grandma Hannah was the first to teach me the concept of mise en place (though that is not what she called it!) so we wouldn’t have to run all around the kitchen while we were baking. She taught me to “work tidy,” cleaning as we went. These are things I still do today. Although we lived in Los Angeles during my childhood, my mother never strayed far from those Southern roots when it came to her home. She and I had the best time in the

kitchen together. We would bake old-timey cakes, such as Hummingbird Cake (page 88) and Coconut Cake (page 85), and tint buttercream frosting (see page 66) in the pastel shades of colored Easter eggs. We mixed all our cakes by hand, just as her mother and grandmother had done, until she finally got a Sunbeam mixer.

Old-Fashioned Cupcakes with Buttercream Frosting p. 64 | Pinkies Chocolate Lunch-Box Treats p. 69 | Sweet Potato Cupcakes with Caramel Cream Cheese Frosting p. 71 | Banana–Chocolate Chip Cupcakes with Chocolate Cream Cheese Frosting p. 74 | Strawberry Cupcakes with Fresh Strawberry Frosting p. 77 | Red Velvet Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting p. 79 | Chocolate Heaven with Chocolate Buttercream p. 82 | Coconut Cake with Coconut Buttercream p. 85 | Hummingbird Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting p. 88 | Ginger Cake Squares with Fresh Whipped Cream p. 90 | Carrot Cake with Spiced Cream Cheese Frosting p. 91 | Brown Sugar Bundt Cake with Butterscotch Glaze p. 92 | Deep, Dark Flourless Chocolate Cake p. 94 | Sterling Cheesecake with Cherry Compote p. 97 |

My mom passed on to me the traditions and recipes of four generations of women in my family, and they remain alive in our bakery today. When I see families gathered around our tables, little hands holding their first red velvet newborn (our name for mini cupcakes) or an Old-Fashioned Cupcake (page 64) with a birthday candle ready to blow out, I know they are creating memories that will last a lifetime too.

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OLD-FASHIONED CUPCAKES WITH BUTTERCREAM FROSTING

our number one seller!

1 cup whole milk 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1O cups cake flour (not self-rising) 1N cups unbleached allpurpose flour 2 cups sugar

Every time we make these cupcakes, I am six years old all over again and tempted to lick the beaters of the buttery cake batter. We decorate the finished cakes with buttercream and sprinkles in my favorite pastel-toned palette of pink, green, baby blue, and yellow. We haven’t tried to reinvent this nostalgic cake, leaving the American classic just as it should be. Makes 24 cupcakes

1 tablespoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free O teaspoon fine sea salt K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into K-inch cubes, at room temperature

4 large eggs, at room temperature 1 recipe Buttercream Frosting (recipe follows) Hand-tinted sprinkles (see Sweet Note, page 67; optional)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 24 cupcake cups with paper liners. In a large measuring cup or a small bowl, mix together the milk and vanilla; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), combine both flours, the sugar, baking powder, and salt and mix on low speed for 2 to 3 minutes, until thoroughly combined. With the mixer on low speed, add the cubed butter a few pieces at a time, mixing for about 2 minutes, until the mixture resembles coarse sand. With the mixer on medium speed, add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Turn the speed to low and gradually add the milk and vanilla, then mix for another 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the bowl from the mixer and, using a rubber spatula, incorporate any ingredients hiding at the bottom of the bowl, making sure the batter is completely mixed. With a large ice cream scoop or spoon, scoop the batter into the prepared cupcake cups,

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This recipe uses an unusual method for mixing the cake batter that was inspired by Rose Levy Beranbaum’s one-bowl method in The Cake Bible. Adding the small bits of butter to the dry ingredients is very similar to making a pastry dough. It is a foolproof method for not overmixing the batter, and the result is a tender, delicate cake that is light and fluffy.

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filling each baking cup about two-thirds full. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean. Let cool for at least 20 minutes. To frost the cupcakes: Using a spatula or a butter knife, spread the tops of the cupcakes with swirls of frosting. Top with sprinkles, if desired. The cupcakes can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Buttercream Frosting | Makes about 6 cups K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

6 to 7 cups confectioners’ sugar K cup whole milk

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract Liquid gel food coloring (optional)

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 4 cups of the confectioners’ sugar, the milk, and vanilla and mix on low speed until smooth and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Gradually add up to 3 cups more sugar, mixing on low speed, until the frosting reaches the desired light and fluffy consistency, 3 to 5 minutes. If desired, to tint the frosting, add a drop or two of food coloring to the frosting, mixing well; add more coloring as necessary until you reach the desired shade. If you want multiple colors, scoop the frosting into several bowls, then add the food coloring. The frosting can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

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Sweet Note: Hand-Tinted Sprinkles Sprinkles add a touch of fun and color to the tops of cupcakes and cakes. We hand-tint our sprinkles in the same shades of pink, blue, green, and yellow that we frost the cupcakes, using the simple technique my mother taught me. To tint sprinkles, pour white sprinkles into a Mason jar and add a pinch (it doesn’t take much) of powdered food coloring (see Resources, page 249). Screw on the lid and shake, shake, shake until the sprinkles take on the desired shade, adding more powder if necessary. Store the jar of sprinkles in a cool place and use as desired. To decorate a kitchen shelf, fill multiple jars with sprinkles of different colors.

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PINKIES CHOCOLATE LUNCHBOX TREATS

Remember those Hostess Sno Balls your mom used to pack in your lunch box? The ones with marshmallow covered in bright pink coconut? This is our updated interpretation. It is such fun to see our bakery cases stocked with these cupcakes in assorted colors in springtime. Makes 18 cupcakes

a nostalgic snack

1K cups cake flour (not self-rising) 2 cups sugar O teaspoon baking soda K teaspoon fine sea salt 4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped

1 cup hot freshly brewed coffee 1K teaspoons pure vanilla extract 2 large eggs, at room temperature K cup canola oil K cup sour cream, at room temperature

1 recipe Coconut Buttercream (recipe follows) FOR THE TINTED COCONUT

4 cups sweetened flaked coconut Powdered food coloring (see Resources, page 249)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 18 cupcake cups with paper liners. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), combine the flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt. Let the mixer run on low speed for 2 to 3 minutes to aerate the flour. Meanwhile, put the chocolate in a medium bowl and pour in the hot coffee and vanilla. Let the mixture stand for about 2 minutes to melt the chocolate, then stir until smooth. In another medium bowl, whisk the eggs and oil together until thick, satiny, and light in color. Whisk in the sour cream, being careful not to overmix; leave some visible streaks of white. Pour in the melted chocolate mixture and mix until just combined. Add the chocolate–sour cream mixture to the dry ingredients in thirds, mixing on medium speed for 1 to 2 minutes, until just combined. Remove the bowl from the mixer and, using a rubber spatula, incorporate any ingredients hiding at the bottom of the bowl, making sure the batter is completely mixed. The batter will be very runny, so it’s best to transfer it to a large liquid measuring cup to make it easier to pour. Pour the batter into the prepared cupcake cups, filling each one about two-thirds full. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean. Let cool for at least 20 minutes. Once the cupcakes are cool, remove them from the paper liners. continued

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To assemble the cupcakes: Use an apple corer or a paring knife to scoop out a hole in the middle of each cupcake, about 1 inch deep. (The extra cake is yours for the snacking!) Fill a pastry bag fitted with a K-inch or larger tip with the frosting and fill the holes in each cupcake with frosting. Arrange the cupcakes on a baking sheet lined with parchment or foil and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes to set the frosting. To make the tinted coconut: Put the coconut in a Mason jar or a zip-top plastic bag. Add a few pinches of food coloring, one drop at a time, and shake until the coconut is evenly colored. Once the frosting in the centers of the cupcakes sets, frost the tops and sides of the cupcakes with the remaining frosting. Put the coconut in a small bowl, roll the frosted cupcakes in the coconut, and place them in cupcake papers. The cupcakes can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Coconut Buttercream | Makes about 6 cups K cup all-purpose flour 2 cups whole milk 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

2 teaspoons coconut extract

1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 cups confectioners’ sugar

Combine the flour, K cup of the milk, the vanilla, and the coconut extract in a small saucepan and whisk until blended. Set the pan over medium heat and gradually add the remaining 1K cups milk, whisking constantly. Cook the mixture, whisking, until it comes to a low boil, then reduce the heat to low and continue to whisk until the mixture begins to thicken and starts to “burp,” 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a small heatproof bowl and stir it occasionally as it cools to keep it lump-free. (If you do get a few lumps, don’t worry—you can whisk the mixture to dissolve the lumps, or pass it through a fine-mesh sieve.) Set the mixture aside to cool to room temperature. (You can put it in the refrigerator for 10 minutes to speed up the process.) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large bowl, using a handheld mixer), whip the butter on medium speed until soft and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Gradually add the confectioners’ sugar and beat on high speed until light and fluffy, 5 to 7 minutes. Gradually add the milk mixture, then increase the speed to medium-high and whip until the frosting is light and fluffy, scraping down the bottom and sides of the bowl as necessary with a rubber spatula to make sure the frosting is thoroughly mixed. The frosting can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

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SWEET POTATO CUPCAKES WITH CARAMEL CREAM CHEESE FROSTING sweet potato goodness

2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 2N teaspoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free O teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon K teaspoon ground cloves K teaspoon ground mace

In the South, we eat sweet potatoes all year long, not just at Thanksgiving. This cupcake offers the same spicy, brown-sugary goodness of the side dish with the toasted marshmallows, but in a sweet handheld package. If you don’t have a kitchen blowtorch, just toast the marshmallows over an open flame on your stove and pop them on top of the cupcakes. Makes 24 cupcakes

N teaspoon ground cardamom 1N cups packed light brown sugar 4 large eggs, at room temperature 1 cup vegetable oil 1 pound sweet potatoes (1 to 2 sweet potatoes), baked and cooled, flesh scraped out and mashed

1 tablespoon grated orange zest K cup whole milk 1 recipe Caramel Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe follows) Large or mini marshmallows (optional) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Kitchen blowtorch

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 24 cupcake cups with paper liners. Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, mace, and cardamom; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat the brown sugar and eggs on medium speed for 3 to 4 minutes, until pale and fluffy. Add the oil, sweet potatoes, and orange zest, beating just until incorporated. With the mixer on low speed, add the flour mixture in thirds, alternating with the milk, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients. Remove the bowl from the mixer and, using a rubber spatula, incorporate any ingredients hiding at the bottom of the bowl, making sure the batter is completely mixed. With a large ice cream scoop or spoon, scoop the batter into the prepared cupcake cups, filling each one about two-thirds full. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean. Let cool for at least 20 minutes. To assemble the cupcakes: Using a spatula or a butter knife, spread the tops of the cupcakes with swirls of the frosting and decorate with marshmallows, if using. With a kitchen blowtorch,

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lightly toast the marshmallows, being careful not to burn the baking papers. The cupcakes can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Caramel Cream Cheese Frosting | Makes about 6 cups FOR THE CARAMEL

FOR THE FROSTING

1 cup granulated sugar 12 tablespoons (1K sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 tablespoons heavy cream

Two 8-ounce packages cream cheese, cut into K-inch cubes, at room temperature

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 2 cups confectioners’ sugar

To make the caramel: Combine the granulated sugar and K cup water in a medium saucepan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring, until the sugar is completely dissolved. Using a wet pastry brush, wash down any crystals from the sides of the pan. Turn the heat down to medium and continue to cook, without stirring, until the syrup becomes a medium-dark amber caramel, about 10 minutes; you can carefully swirl the pan around to check the color. Remove the pan from the heat and immediately stir in the butter and heavy cream (be careful of the hot steam!). Do not worry if the butter starts to separate; it will come together once the caramel is cooled. Transfer the caramel to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or to a medium mixing bowl, if using a handheld mixer) and beat on low speed until the caramel cools and starts to come together. Transfer the caramel to a small bowl. To make the frosting: Beat the cream cheese, butter, and vanilla in a large bowl with a handheld mixer on medium speed until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. With the mixer on low speed, gradually add the confectioners’ sugar, beating until light and fluffy. Add the caramel and continue to beat until smooth and creamy, 4 to 5 minutes.

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BANANA—CHOCOLATE CHIP CUPCAKES WITH CHOCOLATE CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

When I was a child, we used to buy frozen bananas dipped in chocolate on the Santa Monica Pier. Ever since, I’ve loved how the two flavors go together. These cupcakes are based on chiffon cake, so popular with America’s home bakers throughout the 1940s and ’50s.

the perfect mix of tangy and sweet

2 cups cake flour (not selfrising) 1L cups sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminumfree 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

2 large eggs, separated 1 large egg white N teaspoon cream of tartar O cup buttermilk L cup canola oil 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Makes 24 cupcakes

1 cup mashed ripe bananas (about 2K large bananas) K cup semisweet chocolate chips 1 recipe Chocolate Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe follows)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 24 cupcake cups with paper liners. In a large mixing bowl, sift together the cake flour, 1 cup of the sugar, the baking powder, baking soda, and salt; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat the egg whites and cream of tartar until frothy. Gradually add the remaining L cup sugar and continue to whip until stiff peaks form. Set aside. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients. Add half of the buttermilk, the oil, vanilla, and mashed bananas and stir for 1 to 2 minutes, until the ingredients are thoroughly combined. Add the egg yolks and the rest of the buttermilk, stirring until just combined. Gently fold in the egg whites and then the chocolate chips. With a large ice cream scoop or spoon, scoop the batter into prepared cupcake cups, filling each one about two-thirds full. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean. Let cool for at least 20 minutes. To frost the cupcakes: Using a spatula or a butter knife, spread the tops of the cupcakes with swirls of the frosting. The cupcakes can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

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Chocolate Cream Cheese Frosting | Makes about 3 cups 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips N cup heavy cream

One 8-ounce package cream cheese, at room temperature

K cup confectioners’ sugar

Put the semisweet chocolate chips and heavy cream in a heatproof bowl set over a pot of barely simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water) and stir until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Remove the chocolate from the heat. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the cream cheese and confectioners’ sugar on low speed until smooth. Gradually add the chocolate mixture and mix until incorporated.

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STRAWBERRY CUPCAKES WITH FRESH STRAWBERRY FROSTING

a taste of summer in every bite

3 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free K teaspoon fine sea salt 1L cups pureed fresh strawberries (about 2 cups whole strawberries)

We are blessed with a long growing season that stretches from December through May, so we can enjoy plump, lush strawberries from Florida, Georgia, and South and North Carolina before the hot summer settles in. Strawberry season means the return of these sweet cupcakes, which disappear from the bakery cases as fast as we can make them.

K cup whole milk, at room temperature 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

Makes 24 cupcakes

2 cups sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature 4 large egg whites, at room temperature 1 recipe Fresh Strawberry Frosting (recipe follows)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 24 cupcake cups with paper liners. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. In a large measuring cup or a small bowl, whisk together the strawberry puree, milk, vanilla, and lemon zest. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter on medium-high speed until light in color. Turn the speed down to low and gradually add the sugar, mixing for 3 to 4 minutes, until it is completely incorporated and the mixture is fluffy. Add the eggs and egg whites one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the flour mixture in thirds, alternating with the strawberry mixture, beginning and ending with the flour. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and mix for another 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the bowl from the mixer and, using a rubber spatula, incorporate any ingredients hiding at the bottom of the bowl, making sure the batter is completely mixed. With a large ice cream scoop or spoon, scoop the batter into the prepared cupcake cups, filling each one about two-thirds full. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean. Let cool for at least 20 minutes. To frost the cupcakes: Using a spatula or a butter knife, spread the tops of the cupcakes with swirls of the frosting. The cupcakes can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Serve the cupcakes at room temperature.

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Fresh Strawberry Frosting | Makes about 5 cups 1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

K teaspoon fleur de sel Two 1-pound boxes (8 cups) confectioners’ sugar

K cup pureed fresh strawberries (about 1 cup whole strawberries)

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a medium mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat the butter, lemon juice, and fleur de sel on low speed until smooth and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Gradually add the confectioners’ sugar and continue beating until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the strawberry puree, mixing until completely incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes. The frosting can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

CUPCAKE HAPPY HOUR One thing about Savannah that Griff and I appreciate is the sense of community. It’s not just the gingerbread houses, moss-draped squares, and brick streets that give it a throwback feel to a simpler time, when people knew their neighbors. Savannah’s warm Southern hospitality invites celebration. It’s not known as the Hostess City for nothing. In Savannah, we make a big deal out of the everyday, from sidewalk arts to jazz and world music to picnics in Forsyth Park, where there are contests to determine who has prepared the most elaborate table setting. There’s some festival or get-together happening just about every weekend, when it feels as if the whole city has gathered together to sing, dance, laugh, and enjoy really yummy food. When our very own Starland neighborhood started hosting a First Friday gallery crawl in 2006, we stayed open late for our first Cupcake Happy Hour. Griff and I wanted to give back to those who had supported us and to get to know our customers a little better, plus we just wanted to have some good old-fashioned, family-friendly fun. We stocked the cases with almost every flavor of cupcake we make—which was a good thing, because the line went out the door as guests filed in for frosting shots (I bought the house the first round), two-for-one cupcakes, live music, and Bakery Bingo. We sold cupcakes so fast we had to set a limit of twelve per person. That first First Friday was everything we hoped it would be and more, and it has become a tradition.

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RED VELVET CAKE WITH CREAM CHEESE FROSTING a down-home southern classic

3 cups cake flour (not selfrising) 1 teaspoon baking soda 1K teaspoons Dutchprocessed cocoa powder, sifted

This cake helped to open a lot of doors for us. Jamie and Bobby Deen filmed the Christmas episode of their Food Network show, Road Tasted, at our bakery a few years after we opened. We made red velvet cupcakes with the boys. A lot of folks who’ve never had this scarlet lady ask what it tastes like. We tell them it has a hint of chocolate with a sweet tangy finish from the cream cheese frosting. Serves 10 to 12

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 cup vegetable oil 2 cups sugar 4 large eggs, at room temperature

One 1-ounce bottle red food coloring 1 teaspoon cider vinegar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 cup buttermilk 1 recipe Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe follows)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter two 9-by2-inch round cake pans, then line the bottoms with parchment and butter it as well. Lightly dust the pans with flour, tapping the pans on the counter to shake out the excess. Sift together the cake flour, baking soda, and cocoa; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter, oil, and sugar together on medium-low to medium speed for 5 to 7 minutes, until very pale and thick. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the food coloring, vinegar, and vanilla and mix for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the sifted dry ingredients in thirds, alternating with the buttermilk, beginning and ending with the flour, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Mix for another 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the bowl from the mixer and, using a rubber spatula, incorporate any ingredients hiding at the bottom of the bowl, making sure the batter is completely mixed. Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans and gently smooth the tops with a spatula. Tap the pans firmly on the countertop to remove any air bubbles from the batter. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center of a cake comes out clean. Let the cakes cool for 15 minutes, then remove from the pans and cool completely on a wire rack. To assemble the cake: Level the top of one of the cake layers with a serrated knife so it is flat, then place it cut side down on a serving plate (you can keep the edges of the plate clean by

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sliding strips of parchment underneath the cake while you frost it). Using an offset spatula, spread the layer with a big dollop of frosting. Place the other cake layer top side up on the first layer and frost the top and sides with the remaining frosting, making big swirls with an offset spatula or a butter knife. The cake can be stored wrapped in plastic wrap in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Cream Cheese Frosting | Makes about 5 cups 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks, at room temperature

Two 8-ounce packages cream cheese, cut into chunks, at room temperature

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract 5 to 6 cups confectioners’ sugar

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat the butter, cream cheese, and vanilla until smooth and creamy, 3 to 5 minutes. Gradually add the confectioners’ sugar, beating until light and fluffy, 5 to 7 minutes. The frosting can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Spiced Cream Cheese Frosting Add K teaspoon ground cinnamon when you add the confectioners’ sugar.

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CHOCOLATE HEAVEN WITH CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM

out-of-this-world good

3 cups cake flour (not selfrising) 4 cups sugar 1K teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 9 ounces unsweetened chocolate (see Tip), finely chopped

This cake was the first thing I learned to bake with my grandmother. It was, and still is, the best cake I have ever tasted. The Scharffen Berger chocolate we use at the bakery puts a new spin on a nostalgic cake, and a hint of strong coffee adds another flavor dimension. Topped with a decadent buttercream frosting, this cake is everything you want a chocolate cake to be, and a sweet finale for any occasion. Serves 10 to 12

2 cups hot freshly brewed coffee 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract 4 large eggs, at room temperature 1 cup canola oil

1 cup sour cream, at room temperature 1 recipe Chocolate Buttercream (recipe follows)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter three 9-by2-inch round cake pans, then line the bottoms with parchment and butter it as well. Lightly dust the pans with flour, tapping the pans on the counter to shake out the excess. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), combine the flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt. Let the mixer run on low speed for 2 to 3 minutes to aerate the flour. Meanwhile, put the chocolate in a medium bowl and pour in the hot coffee and vanilla. Let stand for about 2 minutes to melt the chocolate, then stir until smooth. In another medium bowl, whisk the eggs and oil together until thick, satiny, and light in color. Whisk in the sour cream, being careful not to overmix; leave some visible streaks of white. Pour in the melted chocolate mixture and mix until just combined. Add the chocolate–sour cream mixture to the dry ingredients in thirds, mixing on medium speed until well blended. Remove the bowl from the mixer and, using a rubber spatula, incorporate any ingredients hiding at the bottom of the bowl, making sure the batter is completely mixed. Divide the batter evenly among the prepared pans and smooth the tops with a spatula. Tap the pans firmly on the countertop to remove any air bubbles from the batter. continued

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When a recipe calls for unsweetened chocolate, we recommend using one with 99% cocoa content, such as Scharffen Berger, for its intense flavor and dark color.

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Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until the center of a cake springs back a little when touched and a cake tester inserted in the center of a cake comes out clean. The cakes will be a deep, dark chocolate brown with slight cracks on top. Let the cakes cool for 20 minutes, then remove from the pans and cool completely on a wire rack. To assemble the cake: Level the tops of two of the cake layers with a serrated knife so they’re flat. Place one layer cut side down on a flat serving plate (you can keep the edges of the plate clean by sliding strips of parchment under the cake while you frost it). Using an offset spatula, spread the top with a big dollop of frosting. Place the second cake layer cut side down and spread the top with another big dollop of frosting. Place the final layer on top, right side up, and frost the top and sides with the remaining frosting, making big luscious swirls with the spatula. The cake can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Chocolate Buttercream | Makes about 7 cups 9 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped O pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 tablespoons whole milk 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2K to 3 cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted

Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a simmering saucepan of water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water) and stir occasionally until the chocolate is completely melted. Set the chocolate aside to cool to room temperature. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a medium mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat the butter on medium speed until smooth and creamy. Add the milk, mixing until completely blended. Add the cooled chocolate and mix until completely incorporated, 2 to 3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as necessary. Add the vanilla and beat just until mixed. With the mixer on low speed, gradually add 2K cups confectioners’ sugar and continue beating, adding more sugar as needed, until you reach a creamy, silky frosting consistency. The frosting can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

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COCONUT CAKE WITH COCONUT BUTTERCREAM a slice of southern hospitality

3 cups unbleached allpurpose flour K teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminumfree N teaspoon ground cardamom K teaspoon fine sea salt

This snowy beauty is an elegant dessert to take to a party. A Southern standard, it was the first thing I made for Griff after he moved to Savannah. The shreds of delicate coconut atop the frosting are the perfect balance to the light and moist cake. Add one of our delicious simple syrups (see Sweet Note, page 87) to make each bite one to remember. Serves 10 to 12

O cup cream of coconut, such as Coco Lopez 1K teaspoons pure vanilla extract 1K teaspoons pure almond extract O pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 cups sugar 6 large eggs, at room temperature 1 recipe Coconut Buttercream (page 70) 3 cups sweetened flaked coconut

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter two 9-by2-inch round cake pans and dust with flour, tapping the pans on the counter to shake out the excess. Sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, cardamom, and salt; set aside. In a large measuring cup or a small bowl, stir together the cream of coconut, N cup water, the vanilla, and the almond extract. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter and sugar together on medium-high speed for 3 to 5 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition and scraping down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as necessary. With the mixer on low speed, add the flour mixture in thirds, alternating with the cream of coconut mixture and beginning and ending with the flour, mixing just until combined; scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as necessary. Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans and smooth the tops with a spatula. Tap the pans firmly on the countertop to remove any air bubbles from the batter. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center of a cake comes out clean. Let cool for 20 minutes, then remove the cakes from the pans and cool completely on a wire rack. To assemble the cake: Level the top of one of the layers with a serrated knife so it is flat. Place the layer cut side down on a flat serving plate (you can keep the edges of the plate clean by

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sliding strips of parchment under the cake while you frost it). With an offset spatula, spread the top of the layer with a big dollop of frosting. Sprinkle about K cup of the coconut on top. Place the second layer on top, right side up, and frost the top and sides with the remaining frosting, making swirls with the spatula. Sprinkle some of the remaining coconut on top of the cake and press the rest onto the sides. The cake can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Sweet Note: How to Make Simple Syrup Adding a glaze of simple syrup to a cake provides an element of surprise. It moistens the cake and, if you make one of the variations, gives another dimension to the flavor. To make simple syrup, combine 1 cup water and 1 cup sugar in a small saucepan and heat over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar completely dissolves. Bring the syrup to a boil and boil for 3 to 5 minutes, until it turns golden. Let cool, and refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. For variations, add almond, coconut, vanilla, coffee, or rum extract to taste. If you want a citrus flavor, substitute 1 cup fresh lemon juice for the water. To use the syrup, poke several holes in each cake layer using a toothpick, and brush the simple syrup generously on the cake layers. Allow the syrup to soak in for a few minutes before assembling and frosting the cake. You can also use simple syrup to sugar fruit for decorating cakes and cupcakes. Simply brush it on clean, dry fruit and roll in granulated sugar. Set the fruit aside to dry on a parchment-lined pan.

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HUMMINGBIRD CAKE

Spiced with cinnamon and studded with pecans, this cake is a true Southern classic. Bananas and pineapple give it a luscious texture, and its flavors mingle and grow more intense the day after baking.

WITH CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

Serves 10 to 12

hums of happiness

3 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon K teaspoon ground mace 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup packed light brown sugar 1N cups canola oil 3 large eggs 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 2 cups mashed very ripe bananas (about 5 large bananas)

One 8-ounce can crushed pineapple, drained 1K cups chopped pecans 1 recipe Cream Cheese Frosting (page 81)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter two 9-by2-inch round cake pans, then line the bottoms with parchment and butter it as well. Lightly dust the pans with flour, tapping the pans on the counter to shake out the excess. Sift together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, mace, and salt; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat both sugars with the oil for 2 to 3 minutes, until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition, then mix for 2 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the vanilla, bananas, and pineapple, mixing until just combined. On low speed, add the flour mixture in thirds, beating until combined; scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Fold in ½ cup of the pecans. Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans and smooth the tops with a spatula. Tap the pans firmly on the countertop to remove any air bubbles from the batter. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center of a cake comes out clean. Let the cakes cool for 15 minutes, then remove the layers from the pans and cool completely on a wire rack. To assemble the cake: Level the top of one of the layers with a serrated knife so it is flat. Place it cut side down on a serving plate. Using an offset spatula or a butter knife, spread the top of the layer with a dollop of frosting. Place the second cake layer on top, right side up, and frost the top and sides with the remaining frosting. Decorate the sides of the cake with the remaining 1 cup of pecans. The cake can be stored wrapped in plastic wrap in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Serve at room temperature.

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GINGER CAKE SQUARES WITH FRESH WHIPPED CREAM

This recipe has been passed down in my family for at least four generations. My great-grandmother was famous for the homemade ginger cake squares she sold at her general store. This simple recipe is the one she used. We make this at Christmastime, but I crave ginger cake all year long. Serves 6 to 8

spicy decadence at its best

K cup sugar 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted 1 cup blackstrap molasses 1 large egg 2K cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1K teaspoons baking soda

K teaspoon fine sea salt 1 tablespoon ground ginger 1K teaspoons ground cinnamon K teaspoon ground cloves K teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

K teaspoon ground allspice 1 cup boiling water N cup candied ginger, finely chopped 1 recipe Fresh Whipped Cream (recipe follows)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter an 8-by8-by-2-inch cake pan. Line the bottom with parchment and butter it as well. Lightly dust the pan with flour, tapping the pan on the counter to shake out the excess. In a medium bowl, whisk together the sugar, butter, molasses, and egg; set aside. Sift the flour, baking soda, and salt together into a medium mixing bowl. Whisk in the ginger, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and allspice. Stir the dry ingredients into the molasses-egg mixture, then add the boiling water, whisking until well blended. Fold in the candied ginger. Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Let the cake cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then remove from the pan and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely while you make the whipped cream. Cut the ginger cake into 6 or 8 squares and serve warm with the whipped cream. The cakes are even better the next day. They can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

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Fresh Whipped Cream | Makes about 3 cups 2 cups heavy cream N cup confectioners’ sugar Using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), whip the cream on medium speed until it starts to thicken. Add the confectioners’ sugar and beat until the cream holds nice soft peaks.

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CARROT CAKE WITH SPICED CREAM CHEESE FROSTING a real crowd-pleaser

This traditional cake is studded with sweet black currants, spices, and pecans, giving a flavor profile that tastes even better the day after it is baked. The use of black currants was a happy accident that resulted when we ordered a large shipment of them instead of the dark raisins we wanted for the bakery. We decided to give them a try and loved the little sweet notes they add in this recipe. Serves 10 to 12

2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free 2 teaspoons baking soda 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon K teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1N cups canola oil 4 large eggs 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup packed light brown sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

4 cups finely grated carrots (4 to 5 large carrots) K cup dried currants 1 cup chopped pecans 1 recipe Spiced Cream Cheese Frosting (page 81)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter two 9-by2-inch round cake pans. Line the bottom with parchment and butter it as well. Lightly dust the pans with flour, tapping the pans on the counter to shake out the excess. Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt; set aside. In a large mixing bowl, combine the oil, eggs, both sugars, and vanilla and whisk until the mixture looks light and pale in color. Fold in the flour mixture in thirds until just combined. Gently fold in the carrots, currants, and ½ cup of the pecans until thoroughly combined. Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans and smooth the tops with a spatula. Tap the pans firmly on the countertop to remove any air bubbles from the batter. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until the center of a cake springs back a little when touched and a cake tester inserted in the center of a cake comes out clean. Let cool for 20 minutes, then remove the layers from the pans and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. To assemble the cake: Level the top of one of the cake layers with a serrated knife so it’s flat. Place it cut side down on a serving plate. Using an offset spatula, spread the top of the layer with a dollop of frosting. Place the second cake layer on top, right side up, and frost the top and sides with the remaining frosting. Decorate the top or sides of the cake with the remaining ½ cup of pecans. The cake can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

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BROWN SUGAR BUNDT CAKE WITH BUTTERSCOTCH GLAZE

I love the rolling mounds of this fluted Bundt cake, which allow the glossy butterscotch glaze to run lavishly down its sides. The glaze gives the cake a smooth finish that is a wonderful complement to the finely textured crumb of the cake. It is perfect at a Sunday brunch. Serves 10 to 12

simple, old-fashioned flavor

2N cups unbleached allpurpose flour K teaspoon baking soda K teaspoon fine sea salt K teaspoon ground cardamom K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 cups packed light brown sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 3 large eggs, at room temperature 1 cup sour cream

FOR THE BUTTERSCOTCH GLAZE

7 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup packed light brown sugar 1 cup heavy cream

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Butter a 10-inch Bundt pan, making sure to get into the tight crevices. Lightly dust the pan with flour, tapping the pan on the counter to shake out the excess. Sift together the flour, baking soda, salt, and cardamom; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter and brown sugar on low to medium speed for 5 to 7 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the vanilla and lemon zest and mix just to combine. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the flour mixture in thirds, alternating with the sour cream, beginning and ending with the flour, and mix for another 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the bowl from the mixer and, using a rubber spatula, incorporate any ingredients hiding at the bottom of the bowl, making sure the batter is completely mixed. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Tap the pan firmly on the countertop to remove any air bubbles from the batter. Bake for 60 to 75 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Cool for 15 minutes, then remove from the pan and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. To make the butterscotch glaze: Put the butter, brown sugar, and cream in a medium saucepan and stir over medium heat until the sugar has completely dissolved. Bring to a boil and cook until thickened, about 5 minutes. Let the glaze cool slightly, then pour over the cooled cake. The cake can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

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DEEP, DARK FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE

Your family and friends will ooh and aah when you treat them to this decadent dessert. The intensity of the chocolate flavor and the simplicity of the recipe make it a winner every time. Serve the cake warm with a dusting of confectioners’ sugar or a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Serves 8 to 10

the chocolate lover’s choice

K cup granulated sugar, plus more for dusting the pan 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces

8 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon hot freshly brewed coffee

2 tablespoons Grand Marnier 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 6 large eggs, separated Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch springform pan and dust lightly with granulated sugar; tap out the excess. Put the butter and chocolate in a heatproof bowl, set it over a pot of gently simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water), and stir occasionally until melted and smooth. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla, coffee, Grand Marnier, and cinnamon. Set aside to cool to room temperature. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a medium mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat the egg yolks and granulated sugar together on high speed for 3 to 4 minutes, until pale yellow and thick; the mixture should be thick enough to form ribbons when the whisk is lifted. Gently fold one-quarter of the egg yolk mixture into the chocolate mixture, then add the chocolate-egg mixture to the remaining yolks and gently fold to combine. In a clean mixing bowl or other large bowl, using a clean whisk (or clean beaters), beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Fold one-quarter of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining whites until just incorporated, being careful not to deflate the egg whites. It is better to have some traces of egg whites than to overmix the batter and end up with a tough cake. Wrap the sides and bottom of the prepared springform pan in heavy-duty aluminum foil and place the pan in a deep baking pan large enough to hold it. Pour the batter into the springform pan and spread evenly with a spatula. Fill the baking pan with enough hot water to come about halfway up the sides of the springform pan. continued

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Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the cake is firm at the edges but still jiggles slightly in the center; it will set completely as it cools. Remove the pan from the water bath and cool the cake on a wire rack for about 10 minutes. Gently run a knife around the edges of the pan to loosen the cake, then open the springform and remove the sides. Carefully transfer the cake to a serving plate. Slice and serve immediately, dusting each serving with confectioners’ sugar.

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STERLING CHEESECAKE WITH CHERRY COMPOTE

the perfect cheesecake

If you’re a fan, as we are, of the television show Mad Men, you know that the character Roger Sterling has an old-school saucy charm to him. That’s why we call this the Sterling cheesecake. The cherry compote topping rings true to the classic vintage-style dessert. Cheesecakes do require a little babysitting while they are in the oven to make sure that they don’t overbake. Serves 12 to 16

FOR THE CRUST

FOR THE FILLING

1K cups graham cracker crumbs (approximately 12 crackers) 1 tablespoon sugar 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

2K pounds (five 8-ounce packages) cream cheese, at room temperature 1K cups sugar 6 large eggs, at room temperature 3 large egg yolks, at room temperature

N cup sour cream 1 heaping tablespoon grated lemon zest (from 2 to 3 lemons) K teaspoon ground cardamom 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 1 recipe Cherry Compote (recipe follows)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch springform pan. To make the crust: In a medium bowl, blend the graham cracker crumbs, sugar, and butter. Press the mixture evenly over the bottom and about halfway up the sides of the prepared pan. Use a piece of parchment to press on the crust to make sure it is completely level on the bottom. Bake for about 8 minutes, until lightly golden. Let cool for at least 10 minutes. Meanwhile, increase the oven temperature to 400°F. To make the filling: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat the cream cheese on medium-high speed for about 5 minutes, until smooth. Reduce the speed to low and gradually add the sugar, then beat the cream cheese and sugar together for 3 to 5 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the eggs and yolks, 3 at a time, beating well after each addition. Scrape down the paddle and the sides of the bowl, add the sour cream, lemon zest, cardamom, and vanilla, and mix for another 8 to 10 minutes, until the filling is the consistency of sour cream. Wrap the sides and bottom of the springform pan in heavy-duty aluminum foil, pour the filling into the cooled crust, and place the cake in a deep baking pan large enough to hold it. Fill the baking pan with enough hot water to come about halfway up the sides of the springform pan. continued

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Bake for 10 minutes, then turn the oven temperature down to 225°F and bake the cheesecake for another 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until it is firm at the edges but still jiggles slightly in the center; it will continue to set as it cools. Turn the oven off and leave the cheesecake in the oven with the door partially open for 30 minutes. Take the cheesecake out of the water bath and allow it to cool to room temperature, 3 to 4 hours. Once it is cooled, carefully wrap the cheesecake, still in the pan, in aluminum foil and refrigerate overnight. When ready to serve, run a hot knife around the edges of the pan to loosen the cake, then open the springform and release the sides. Carefully transfer the cake to a serving plate. Slice the cheesecake and top with the cherry compote.

Cherry Compote | Makes about 2 cups K cup sugar 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest (from about 2 lemons) 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1 pound fresh cherries, pitted

Combine M cup water, the sugar, lemon juice, and balsamic vinegar in a medium, heavy nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Continue to boil until the liquid thickens into a thin syrup, about 8 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, add the lemon zest, vanilla, and pitted cherries, and stir for about 1 minute. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the cherries have broken down slightly, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a heatproof glass bowl and let cool to room temperature. The compote can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

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C H AP T E R 4

Pies, Cobblers, Crisps, and Tarts I love making pies! There is a simple pleasure in hand-mixing pie dough in a big old ceramic bowl; it makes me feel a connection to the tradition of pie making. I’m sure your family has a few pie recipes that have been handed down from generation to generation. I have a well-worn wooden box on my kitchen counter filled with recipe cards that were my mother’s and grandmother’s. But let’s be honest, Great-Grandma’s old-fashioned roll-out piecrust might be a little intimidating to the modern baker. That’s why in this chapter we present easy press-in piecrusts that are so good, your family and friends devouring your pie will never know it took you just five minutes to make the crust. Pies are now making a comeback all across the country, but they never really left the baking scene here in the South. Southern culture values tradition, and what’s more traditional than apple, sweet potato, or pecan pie? Perhaps the pie revival has something to do with our longing for the handcrafted, which somehow lost its way in the overworked and tech-savvy American culture. But by nature, we all feel a need to work with our hands and create. In Savannah, people are joining community gardens, shopping at the farmers’ market, and seeking out more sustainable

ways of living. Restaurants have joined the trend too, and we are happy to be a part of the revival of that old way of thinking.

Lemon Meringue Pie p. 102 | Bourbon Pecan Pie p. 107 | S’more Pie p. 108 | Buttermilk Chess Pie p. 111 | ’Nana Cream Pie p. 113 | Sweet Potato Pie p. 114 | Coconut Cream Pie p. 117 | Salted Caramel Apple Pie p. 118 |Blackberry Cobbler p. 121 | Apple Brown Betty with Rum Custard Sauce p. 124 | Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp p. 127 | PeachStrawberry Shortcakes p. 128 | Rustic Peach-Blueberry Tart p. 130 | Plum Tartlets p. 133 | Shortcut Piecrust p. 134 | Old-Fashioned Flaky Piecrust p. 135 | Nilla Wafer Piecrust p. 136 | Graham Cracker Crust p. 137 | Cornmeal Crust p. 138 |

So whether this will be your first attempt or you’re a pie maker extraordinaire, we’ve got a range of recipes for every baker, from the simple Blackberry Cobbler on page 121 to the Salted Caramel Apple Pie on page 118. After mastering a few basic techniques, you’ll earn the bragging rights of bakers who pride themselves on the skill it takes to make the perfect pie. Then you can share a slice with someone you love.

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LEMON MERINGUE PIE the queen of pies

6 large egg yolks 1K cups sugar L cup cornstarch K teaspoon fine sea salt N cup whole milk

Sweet billowy heights of meringue top this classic lemon pie. The creamy custard filling has a bright tartness that’ll make your lips pucker; it’s one of those timeless pies to add to your repertoire. Serves 8 to 10

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest (from about 2 lemons) K cup fresh lemon juice 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

K recipe Old-Fashioned Flaky Piecrust (page 135), prebaked 1 recipe Meringue (recipe follows)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. In a small bowl, lightly whisk the egg yolks; set aside. In a heavy nonreactive saucepan, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Set the pan over medium heat and gradually add 1N cups water and the milk, whisking until smooth. Continue to whisk until the mixture begins to boil, 4 to 5 minutes, then whisk constantly until the mixture begins to thicken. Remove from the heat. To temper the eggs, add about 1 cup of the hot milk mixture to the egg yolks, whisking vigorously so the yolks do not curdle, then pour the warmed egg yolk mixture into the rest of the milk mixture and set over low heat. Whisk in the lemon zest and lemon juice, then simmer, whisking, until the custard is thick and glossy and has the consistency of pudding, 6 to 8 minutes. Be careful not to overcook the custard: it will burn or curdle if the heat is too high. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter until melted and fully incorporated. Pour the custard into the prebaked crust and set aside while you make the meringue. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip with the meringue and pipe it over the entire surface of the pie, making sure it touches the crust all around. Then loosely pile the rest of the meringue on top and use a spatula to spread it in big, luscious swirls. (If you don’t have a pastry bag, you can do both steps using a spatula.) Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until the meringue is golden brown. Remove the pie from the oven and cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before serving. It’s best served the same day, but it can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

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Meringue | Makes about 2 cups 6 large egg whites K teaspoon cream of tartar

V teaspoon fine sea salt K cup granulated sugar

N cup confectioners’ sugar

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat the egg whites, cream of tartar, and salt on low speed for 1 minute, until the egg whites begin to thicken and look frothy. Slowly add the granulated sugar and continue beating until soft peaks form. Add the confectioners’ sugar and whip on medium speed until the meringue is stiff and glossy; it should form stiff peaks that hold their shape when you lift the whisk out of the bowl. Use immediately.

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DISCOVER SAVANNAH To us, Savannah is a city like no other. It’s why we chose to move here twelve years ago. As you walk through the streets, you can’t help but be inspired by how beautiful and creative this community is. Take a stroll in any direction, and you’ll discover historic squares (there are twenty-two of them!), eclectic shops and cafés, and secret gardens that beckon you to sneak a peek. Thanks to the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD), artistic and creative energy has been woven into the fabric of the city. One of my favorite places to stroll is ShopSCAD, a boutique marketplace for emerging artists located on Madison Square. Created by best friends Amy Zurcher and Katie Runnels under the tutelage of university president Paula Wallace, the shop combines the ambiance of a fine–art gallery with the laid-back atmosphere of a top-notch arts and crafts fair. Featuring the work of SCAD students, alumni, faculty, and staff, the shop holds a treasure trove of talent, and it did so long before the handmade movement revolutionized the art and design world in the new millennium. Not only does ShopSCAD showcase the work of local artists, but it also lends a hand to young artists wanting to market their work long after graduation day. The shop is filled with the incredible artwork and handmade designs that spill from the classrooms, galleries, and studios at SCAD. There is something for everyone, including one-of-a-kind cutting boards made from fallen timber, recycled-soda-bottle drinking glasses, hand-embroidered napkins, Savannah toile aprons, and vintage-tea-cup chandeliers. It’s the kind of visual eye candy that I love! The atmosphere is friendly, vibrant, and inspiring.

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BOURBON PECAN PIE say “pea-can” if you want a slice

K cup granulated sugar N cup packed light brown sugar 1K cups dark corn syrup K teaspoon fine sea salt 1K teaspoons unbleached all-purpose flour 3 large eggs

Back in the day, home cooks used to clip recipes from women’s auxiliary books and the Sunday papers, or they’d find them on the label of a trusted brand. My mom made her pecan pie from the recipe on the back of the Karo corn syrup bottle. She even called it “Karo pie.” Our version of this classic pie is rich and buttery and features plenty of crunchy Georgia pecans and a shot of Kentucky bourbon. Serves 8

1K teaspoons pure vanilla extract 2 tablespoons bourbon 1K tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1O cups pecan halves (see Sweet Note)

K cup semisweet chocolate chips (optional) 1 recipe Shortcut Piecrust (page 134) made with brown sugar, unbaked

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment. In a medium bowl, stir together both sugars, the corn syrup, salt, flour, and eggs, mixing until completely combined, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the vanilla, bourbon, and butter until well combined. Fold in the pecans and chocolate chips, if using. Pour the filling into the unbaked pie shell. Place on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until the pie is firm around the edges and just a bit loose in the center. Remove the pie from the oven and cool for at least 1 hour on a wire rack before slicing. It’s best served the same day, but it can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

Sweet Note: The Incredible Georgia Pecan Did you know that Georgia has been the number one producer of pecans in the nation since the 1800s? The area around Albany grows more than half the total U.S. production. That means that here in Georgia we love our pecans, and we come up with all sorts of ways to use them. We adore pecans in savory dishes like Rustic Cheddar Pecan Rounds (page 242) and in all types of desserts, like our Carrot Cake with Spiced Cream Cheese Frosting (page 91). During the 1996 Olympic Games in Atlanta, pecan wood was used to make handles for the ten thousand torches that carried the flame to the opening ceremonies. And barbecue fans prize pecan wood for smoking ribs and brisket.

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S’MORE PIE a good pie— scout’s honor!

Juliette Gordon Low founded the Girl Scouts of America in Savannah, and every year thousands of green-sashed girls make their way to our city to see where it all began. I loved everything about being a Girl Scout, from toasting marshmallows to telling ghost stories and, of course, “making new friends and keeping the old.” This pie pays homage to the Girl Scouts. I love camping, but these days it requires an Airstream trailer in tow. Serves 8

FOR THE CHOCOLATE CUSTARD FILLING

5 large egg yolks 6 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons cornstarch, sifted N teaspoon fine sea salt 2 cups whole milk 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

7 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted 2K tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into cubes, at room temperature 1 recipe Graham Cracker Crust (page 137), prebaked

FOR THE MARSHMALLOW TOPPING

6 large egg whites K teaspoon cream of tartar 1K cups sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Kitchen blowtorch

To make the filling: Whisk the egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch, and salt together in a heatproof bowl until thick and pale in color. Set aside. In a medium saucepan, bring the milk to a gentle boil. Whisk about K cup of the hot milk into the egg yolks to temper them, so they won’t curdle, then, continuing to whisk, add the remainder of the milk in a steady stream. Set the bowl over a medium saucepan of simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water) and cook the egg-milk mixture, whisking constantly, until thick and glossy, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk in the vanilla and melted chocolate until well combined. Let the filling mixture sit for 2 minutes to cool slightly, then whisk in the butter until the custard is smooth and silky. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the chocolate filling so that a skin does not form and let cool for 30 minutes, or until it reaches room temperature. continued

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I like to use a double boiler because it gives me more control over the temperature, especially for custards and for melting chocolate. However, I find that it is easier to stir or whisk ingredients in a bowl as opposed to in a saucepan, where it is difficult to get all of the ingredients incorporated in the corners.

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When the filling has cooled, pour it into the prepared crust. Cover the pie with plastic wrap and place it in the refrigerator to chill for at least 3 hours, or overnight. To make the marshmallow topping: Put the egg whites, cream of tartar, and sugar in a large heatproof bowl, set the bowl over a medium saucepan of simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water), and whisk constantly until the sugar is completely dissolved and the egg whites are warm to the touch, 3 to 4 minutes. The mixture will appear pale and opaque. Rub a little of the mixture between your fingers to make sure the sugar is completely dissolved. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or leave in the same bowl if using a handheld mixer). Add the vanilla and, starting on low speed, whip the egg whites, gradually increasing the speed to high, until the marshmallow topping is glossy and forms stiff peaks, 5 to 7 minutes. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip with the marshmallow topping and pipe it over the entire surface of the pie, making sure it touches the crust all around. Then loosely pile the rest of the marshmallow topping on top and use a spatula to spread it in big, luscious swirls. (If you don’t have a pastry bag, you can do both steps using a spatula.) Toast the topping lightly with a kitchen blowtorch. The pie is best served the same day, but it can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

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BUTTERMILK CHESS PIE sweet and custardy, delicate and smooth

K recipe Old-Fashioned Flaky Piecrust (page 135), unbaked 1K cups sugar 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

This old-school Southern recipe dates back to the 1700s. It takes just a few basic pantry ingredients to make a custard that melts in your mouth. Paired with the flaky crust, it’s a magical combination. This is the kind of pie that will have you reaching for a spoon instead of a fork. Serves 8 to 10

4 large eggs 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons yellow cornmeal Pinch of fine sea salt O cup buttermilk

Grated zest of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

To roll out the dough: Dust your hands and your rolling pin with flour. On a lightly floured piece of parchment, roll out the chilled dough into a 12-inch round. Roll the dough from the center out, rotating it slightly as you roll to prevent sticking and to keep it round. Dust off any excess flour using a dry pastry brush. Roll up the dough onto the rolling pin and place it in the pie dish. Carefully arrange the dough to slump inside the dish and press it into the edges. Trim the excess dough with kitchen shears, leaving about a 1-inch overhang. Fold the dough under and crimp the edges with your thumb and forefinger or press with the tines of a fork for a decorative edge. At this point, your dough has had quite a workout, so be sure to chill it again for at least 1 hour or overnight. When ready to bake, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the sugar and butter until pale in color. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the flour, cornmeal, and salt and mix until well blended. Add the buttermilk, lemon zest, and lemon juice and mix until incorporated. To assemble the pie: Prick the bottom of the crust gently all over with a fork. Pour the filling into the piecrust and bake for 10 minutes. Turn the oven temperature down to 325°F and bake for 45 to 55 minutes, until the custard is golden brown and set around the edges but the center still jiggles slightly; it will firm up completely as it cools. Let the pie cool for at least 2 hours before slicing. The pie is best served the same day, but it can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

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’NANA CREAM PIE the best in savannah

5 large egg yolks 6 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons cornstarch, sifted N teaspoon fine sea salt 2 cups half-and-half 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Leave it to a baker to be caught without any whole milk in the fridge. That was me one Sunday, and I was craving pie. Luckily, I had some half-and-half on hand, and that was the aha! moment that resulted in this rich, custardy pie. It gets a shot of banana liqueur too, which adds a whole other layer of flavor. Serves 8 to 10

3 tablespoons banana liqueur, such as crème de banana, or 2 teaspoons banana extract 2K tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into cubes, at room temperature 1 recipe Nilla Wafer Piecrust (page 136), prebaked

Three large bananas, cut into N-inch-thick slices, plus more for decorating 1 recipe Fresh Whipped Cream (page 90) Freshly grated nutmeg for garnish Nilla wafers for decorating

In a heatproof bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch, and salt until thick and pale in color. Set aside. In a medium saucepan, heat the half-and-half to just below a boil. Whisk about 1 cup of the hot half-and-half into the egg yolk mixture to temper the yolks, so they won’t curdle, then, continuing to whisk, add the remainder of the half-and-half in a steady stream. Set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water) and cook, whisking constantly, until thickened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk in the vanilla and banana liqueur or extract until well combined. Let the filling mixture sit for 2 to 3 minutes to cool slightly, then whisk in the butter until the custard is smooth and silky. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the custard so that a skin does not form and let cool for 30 minutes, or until it reaches room temperature. When the filling has cooled, pour half of it into the prepared piecrust. Add a layer of the sliced bananas, followed by the rest of the filling. Cover with plastic wrap and place it in the refrigerator to chill for at least 3 hours, or overnight. Pile the whipped cream on top of the pie with a spatula. Sprinkle with grated nutmeg and decorate with vanilla wafers and banana slices. The pie is best served the same day, but it can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

Here is a great way to prevent bananas from turning brown in your pie. Using a pastry brush, brush them with lemon or orange juice. Other liquids you can use are lime juice, pineapple juice, orange soda, or lemonlime soda.

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SWEET POTATO PIE comfort baked into a pie

1K pounds sweet potatoes (1 to 2 sweet potatoes), or 2 cups canned sweet potato puree 1 cup heavy cream 3 large eggs, lightly beaten 2 tablespoons sorghum or blackstrap molasses K cup granulated sugar

I cannot imagine a holiday without this traditional Southern pie on the table. I use almost every spice in the cabinet to add depth and warmth to the silky filling. Serve it with a big dollop of whipped cream, with a dusting of freshly grated nutmeg on top. Serves 8 to 10

K cup packed light brown sugar 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour N teaspoon ground cardamom N teaspoon ground cloves N teaspoon ground mace K teaspoon ground ginger

N teaspoon fine sea salt 1 recipe Shortcut Piecrust (page 134) made with brown sugar, prebaked 1 recipe Fresh Whipped Cream (page 90), optional Freshly grated nutmeg, optional

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F if using whole sweet potatoes, or to 350°F if using canned sweet potatoes. If using whole sweet potatoes, wrap them in foil and bake for 40 minutes to 1 hour, until forktender. Set aside to cool slightly. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. Unwrap the sweet potatoes and peel them. Measure out 2 cups of the potatoes, put them in a medium bowl, and mash with a fork until smooth. Or, if using canned sweet potatoes, put them in a medium bowl. Add the heavy cream, eggs, and sorghum or molasses to the sweet potatoes and whisk until fully incorporated. In a large bowl, whisk together the sugars, flour, cardamom, cloves, mace, ginger, and salt. Add the sweet potato mixture and stir until smooth. Pour the filling into the prebaked piecrust and bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until the filling is firm around the edges but still jiggles slightly in the center when you shake it; the filling will continue to firm up as it cools. Let cool completely. Pile the whipped cream on top of the pie with a spatula and sprinkle with freshly grated nutmeg, if desired. The pie is best served the same day, but it can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

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COCONUT CREAM PIE refreshing and light

6 tablespoons sugar V teaspoon fine sea salt 3 tablespoons cornstarch 5 large egg yolks, beaten 2 cups half-and-half

I still remember my first bite of coconut cream pie, at Blum’s Coffee Shop in Beverly Hills. My dad and I sat at the counter and shared a slice. It’s the kind of dessert you savor with your eyes closed. We did our best to re-create that moment with this recipe. So, close your eyes and enjoy. Serves 8 to 10

2K tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon coconut extract 1O cups sweetened flaked coconut

1 recipe Graham Cracker Crust (page 137), prebaked 1 recipe Fresh Whipped Cream (page 90)

In a medium heatproof bowl, combine the sugar, salt, cornstarch, and egg yolks and whisk until well blended. In a medium saucepan, heat the half-and-half to just under the boiling point. Whisk about 1 cup of the hot half-and-half into the egg yolk mixture to temper the yolks, so they won’t curdle, then, continuing to whisk, add the remainder of the half-and-half in a steady stream. Set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water) and cook, whisking constantly, until thickened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the filling mixture sit for 2 to 3 minutes to cool slightly, then whisk in the butter, vanilla, coconut extract, and 1 cup of the coconut. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the custard so that a skin does not form and let cool for about 30 minutes, or until it reaches room temperature. Spread the filling evenly in the prebaked pie shell. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip with the whipped cream and pipe it over the entire surface of the pie. Then pipe the rest of the whipped cream on top in decorative swirls. (If you don’t have a pastry bag, you can do both steps using a spatula.) Sprinkle the remaining ¾ cup of coconut on top of the whipped cream. The pie is best served the same day, but it can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

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SALTED CARAMEL APPLE PIE a twist on the american classic

1 recipe Old-Fashioned Flaky Piecrust (page 135), unbaked FOR THE CARAMEL

1 cup granulated sugar 1K teaspoons fleur de sel 12 tablespoons (1K sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 tablespoons heavy cream

We’ve updated the traditional apple pie with a grown-up version of those caramel apples we used to enjoy as kids around Halloween. We mix a variety of three apples—Granny Smiths, Pink Ladies, and Honey Crisps—and drizzle them with caramel sauce, then sprinkle on a bit of fleur de sel, a combination that satisfies those salty-sweet cravings. Serves 8 to 10

FOR THE APPLE FILLING

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest N cup fresh lemon juice 6 large apples, such as Granny Smith, Pink Lady, or Honey Crisps, or a combination, cored, peeled, and thinly sliced (see Tip) N cup unbleached allpurpose flour N teaspoon ground cardamom

N teaspoon ground allspice N teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg K teaspoon ground cinnamon K cup turbinado sugar, plus more for sprinkling 1 egg, beaten, for egg wash Fleur de sel for sprinkling Ice cream for serving (optional)

To roll out the dough: Dust your hands and your rolling pin with flour. On a lightly floured piece of parchment, roll out the chilled dough into a 12-inch round. Roll the dough from the center out, rotating it slightly as you roll to prevent sticking and to keep it round. Dust off any excess flour using a dry pastry brush. Roll the dough onto the rolling pin and place it in the pie dish. Carefully arrange the dough to slump inside the dish and press it into the edges. Trim the excess dough with kitchen shears, leaving about a 1-inch overhang. Wrap and place the pie dish in the refrigerator to chill the dough for at least 30 minutes. Roll out the remaining disk of dough on parchment and transfer it to a baking sheet. Wrap in plastic wrap and return the dough to the refrigerator to chill for at least 30 minutes. When ready to bake, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. To make the caramel: Combine the granulated sugar, fleur de sel, and K cup water in a medium saucepan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar is dissolved. Wash down any crystals from the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush. Turn the heat down to medium and cook, without stirring, until the syrup becomes a medium-dark amber caramel, about 15 minutes; you can carefully swirl the pan around to check the color. continued

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Carefully remove the pan from the heat and immediately stir in the butter and heavy cream. Be careful of hot steam when the heavy cream is added, and do not worry if the butter starts to separate—it will come together once the caramel is cooled. Transfer the caramel to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or to a medium mixing bowl, if using a handheld mixer) and beat on low speed until the caramel cools and starts to come together. Set aside. To make the filling: Put the lemon zest and lemon juice in a large bowl. Add the apples and toss gently. In a small mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, cardamom, allspice, nutmeg, cinnamon, and turbinado sugar. Gently toss the apples with this mixture. To assemble the pie: Place the bottom piecrust in a 9-inch pie pan and prick the bottom of the crust gently all over with a fork. Layer the apple mixture in the crust, making sure there are no gaps between the apples. Pour N cup of the caramel mixture on top of the apples. Reserve the remaining caramel for serving. Place the top piecrust on a work surface and cut 4 to 8 vent holes in the center with a mini cookie cutter in whatever shape you like. Reserve the cutout pieces for decorating the crust. Brush the rim of the bottom piecrust with the egg wash to create a seal. Place the top crust over the pie filling and seal and crimp the edges, trimming the excess dough. Decorate with the cutout pieces, and brush the entire crust with the egg wash. Sprinkle lightly with turbinado sugar and a pinch of fleur de sel. Place on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes. Turn the oven down to 375°F and bake for an additional 45 to 60 minutes, until the caramel blossoms into big, thick, syrupy bubbles and the crust turns golden brown; test the apples with a small paring knife to make sure they are tender but not mushy. Remove from the oven and let cool for at least 4 hours before serving to allow the juices and caramel to thicken. The pie is best served the same day, but it can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days. To serve, slice the pie into wedges and top with a drizzle of the caramel sauce and, if desired, a scoop of ice cream. Slice your apples the same thickness so that they will bake evenly. That way, you won’t get some apples that come out mushy while others remain firm. Using a mandoline or other slicer will ensure uniform slices and makes quick work.

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BLACKBERRY COBBLER yum!

is all we can say

One of Griff’s fondest memories is picking wild berries around his family’s cabin in Wisconsin. The deep-purple blackberries were his favorite. His dad would make fresh vanilla bean ice cream in one of those big old rock-salt ice cream makers. When the ice cream was frozen, they would top it with a mixed-berry compote. This cobbler is an ode to Griff’s cabin memories. Serves 8 to 10

FOR THE TOPPING

2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free 3 tablespoons granulated sugar K teaspoon fine sea salt N teaspoon ground cardamom

6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into K-inch cubes O cup heavy cream FOR THE FILLING

6 cups fresh blackberries K cup sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest (from about 2 lemons) Heavy cream for brushing 2 tablespoons flavored sugar (see Sweet Note, page 22) or granulated sugar Ice cream for serving (optional)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate. To make the topping: Whisk together the flour, baking powder, sugar, salt, and cardamom in a large bowl. Drop in the butter and, working quickly, cut it in with a pastry blender. You should have various-sized pieces of butter, from sandy patches to pea-sized chunks, and some larger bits as well. Pour the cream over the flour mixture and toss together with a rubber spatula or your hands until you have a very soft dough. If there are still a few bits of flour in the bottom of the bowl, gently knead the dough until it is fully incorporated. Be sure not to overwork the dough; it is better to have a few dry patches than a tough dough. The dough will be soft and sticky. Turn the dough out onto a sheet of plastic wrap or wax paper and cover with another sheet. Using a rolling pin, gently roll the dough into a 9-inch round. Place the dough on a baking sheet, still covered with plastic wrap, and refrigerate while you make the filling. (You can make the dough up to 6 hours before baking the cobbler.) To make the filling: Combine the berries, sugar, cornstarch, and lemon zest in a large mixing bowl, tossing together to mix. Pour the filling into the prepared pie plate. continued

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Remove the chilled dough from the refrigerator and cut a hole in the middle with a 2-inch-wide cookie cutter, in any shape you like, to create a steam vent. Gently place the dough on top of the filling. Brush it lightly with cream and sprinkle with the flavored sugar. Bake for 60 to 75 minutes, until the top is golden and puffed and the fruit is bubbling with juices. Transfer to a wire rack to cool for at least 30 minutes before serving. Serve the cobbler warm or at room temperature, with your favorite ice cream, if desired. The cobbler is best served the same day, but it can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

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APPLE BROWN BETTY WITH RUM CUSTARD SAUCE

What better way to celebrate fall than with crisp, tart apples baked into a sweet, buttery crust made of cubes of French bread and punctuated with plump golden raisins and warm spices? A rum custard sauce served on the side makes this dessert extra sassy. Serves 8 to 10

spice up your day

6 large Granny Smith or McIntosh apples (about 3 pounds), peeled, cored, and sliced about N inch thick 1 cup golden raisins K cup apple cider Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

K teaspoon ground cardamom K teaspoon ground cinnamon K teaspoon fine sea salt N teaspoon ground mace 2 cups 1-inch bread cubes, preferably baguette

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted K cup packed light brown sugar Rum Custard Sauce (recipe follows)

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch square baking dish. Combine the apples and raisins in a medium bowl. In a large measuring cup or a small bowl, whisk together the apple cider, lemon zest, lemon juice, cardamom, cinnamon, salt, and mace and pour over the apples and raisins, tossing to coat. In another medium bowl, toss the bread with the melted butter and brown sugar to coat. Spread one-third of the bread in the bottom of the prepared pan, followed by one-third of the fruit mixture. Continue alternating bread and fruit layers, ending with fruit on top. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for an additional 25 to 35 minutes, until the fruit is bubbling and golden. Place on a wire rack to cool for about 20 minutes. Serve warm, with the rum custard sauce. The Betty is best served the same day, but it can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

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Rum Custard Sauce | Makes about 2½ cups 4 large egg yolks 6 tablespoons sugar 1 cup whole milk

1 vanilla bean, split 1 cup heavy cream 2 teaspoons rum extract

N teaspoon fine sea salt

Whisk together the egg yolks and sugar in a heatproof bowl; set aside. Heat the milk and vanilla bean in a medium heavy saucepan to just under a boil. Whisk about K cup of the hot milk into the yolks to temper them, so they won’t curdle, then, whisking constantly, add the rest of the milk in a steady stream. Set the bowl over a small saucepan of simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water) and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture coats the back of a spoon, 5 to 7 minutes. Take the mixture off the heat, remove the vanilla bean, and stir in the heavy cream, rum extract, and salt. Pour the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any lumps, then refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

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STRAWBERRYRHUBARB CRISP hands down, griff’s favorite

FOR THE TOPPING

1 cup unbleached allpurpose flour K cup packed light brown sugar O cup old-fashioned rolled oats 2 tablespoons yellow cornmeal

The tender sweetness of summer-fresh strawberries paired with chunks of cherry-red rhubarb creates our favorite sweet-and-sour dessert. The buttery oatmeal topping adds a rustic goodness as the fruit juices bubble up through the crisp and over the sides. Serves 8 to 10

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon N teaspoon fine sea salt 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into K-inch cubes 1 tablespoon canola oil

FOR THE FILLING

2 cups strawberries 4 cups 1-inch pieces peeled rhubarb 1N cups turbinado sugar 3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon cornstarch

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate and line a baking sheet with parchment. To make the topping: In a medium mixing bowl, stir together the flour, brown sugar, rolled oats, cornmeal, cinnamon, salt, butter, and oil with a fork until completely blended. Set aside. To make the filling: In another medium bowl, combine the strawberries and rhubarb with the turbinado sugar, flour, and cornstarch, stirring to coat the fruit. Pour the fruit mixture into the prepared pie plate. Sprinkle the topping evenly over the fruit mixture. Place the pie plate on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the fruit is bubbling around the edges and the top is golden brown and crispy. Let cool slightly. Serve the crisp warm. It is best served the same day, but it can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

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PEACH-STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKES the perfect summer dessert

FOR THE SHORTCAKES

1K cups unbleached allpurpose flour K cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling K cup yellow cornmeal 1 teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminumfree 1 teaspoon baking soda

This cornmeal shortcake, sandwiching juicy peaches, ruby-red strawberries, and fresh whipped cream, is the perfect dessert for a hot day in Savannah, when you are waiting on the porch for a cool breeze to blow. Serves 6

K teaspoon fine sea salt 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into K-inch cubes K cup buttermilk

2 cups fresh strawberries, halved K cup sugar 1 recipe Fresh Whipped Cream (page 90)

FOR THE FILLING

6 ripe peaches, peeled (see Sweet Note, page 131), pitted, and sliced

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment. To make the shortcakes: Combine the flour, sugar, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large mixing bowl and whisk until completely blended. Add the cold butter cubes and, working quickly, cut in the butter with a pastry blender. You should have various-sized pieces of butter, from sandy patches to pea-sized chunks, and some larger bits as well. Gradually pour in the buttermilk and gently fold the ingredients until you have a soft dough and there are no longer bits of flour in the bottom of the bowl. Gently pat down the dough with your hands right in the bowl until it resembles a loaf of bread. Dust the top of the dough lightly with flour. Using a large ice cream scoop, scoop 6 mounds of dough onto the prepard baking sheet, leaving about 2 inches between them. Flatten the tops with your hands, and sprinkle with sugar. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the shortcakes are lightly golden, turning the pan halfway through the baking time for even baking. Set on a wire rack to cool. Meanwhile, make the filling: Toss the fruit and sugar together in a bowl. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 15 minutes, or up to 3 hours, to allow the fruit to release its juices.

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To assemble: Slice the shortcakes in half. Place the bottom halves on individual plates and spoon about L cup of the fruit mixture onto each. Add whipped cream to each, then top with the other half of the shortcake. Spoon more fruit on top, followed by whipped cream. Serve immediately.

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RUSTIC PEACHBLUEBERRY TART homespun elegance

2 ripe peaches, peeled (see Sweet Note), pitted, and sliced 2 cups fresh blueberries 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

On a warm summer day, bring together the seasonal fruits of blueberries and peaches in one delicious dessert. They make the perfect combination for this homey free-form tart. The sweetness of the fruits and a hint of vanilla pair well with the flaky yet tender cornmeal crust. Serves 6

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 recipe Cornmeal Crust (page 138), unbaked

1 egg, beaten, for egg wash 2 teaspoons Vanilla Sugar (see Sweet Note, page 22)

Put the peaches and blueberries in a medium bowl, add the granulated sugar and vanilla, and toss to coat the fruit. Let the mixture macerate for 1 hour. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 12-inch circle. Place the dough on the prepared baking sheet. Using a slotted spoon (reserve the fruit juices in the bowl), spoon the fruit into the center of the dough, leaving a 2-inch border all around. Gently fold the edges of the dough over the fruit, overlapping the dough as necessary, and press gently to seal the edges. Pour the reserved juices over the fruit. Brush the crust with the egg wash and sprinkle with the vanilla sugar. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, until the crust is golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool for 5 minutes. Serve the tart warm, or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Silpat mats are a wonderful investment. They are pan-sized liners made of silicone that are absolutely nonstick and can withstand high temperatures. I use them for baking cookies, especially sticky batters like the Almond Crunchies on page 182, the Buttermilk Biscones on page 14, and this Rustic Peach-Blueberry Tart. The best part of a Silpat mat is that they save on your use of parchment paper, so you can do something kind for the environment. Rinse them off and you are ready to reuse them the next time you bake.

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Sweet Note: How to Peel a Peach Peeling peaches can be a messy task. The best way to remove the skin while preserving all the fruit is to blanch them. Using a paring knife, cut a small X in the bottom of each peach. Fill a bowl with ice-cold water and set aside. Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil. Carefully add the peaches to the boiling water one at a time and blanch for 30 to 45 seconds. Remove the peaches with a slotted spoon and immediately dunk them into the ice bath for 10 to 20 seconds to stop the cooking process, then drain. Using the paring knife, gently pull the skin at the X in each peach—it should peel away easily from the fruit. If the skin still holds, repeat the process, leaving the peaches in the boiling water for only 20 seconds.

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PLUM TARTLETS the cakiest tart you’ll ever eat

2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminumfree K teaspoon ground cardamom N teaspoon fine sea salt

We have Jane “Mondo” Thompson, our mentor from Atlanta, to thank for this recipe. She taught it to us during our “bakery boot camp,” and it has become one of our best sellers. It is almost cake-like in texture, with the plums and caramelized sugar baked into the crust. We top it off with a light dusting of confectioners’ sugar. Serve it warm with vanilla bean ice cream, if you like. Makes 6

K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 large egg yolks 1 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

6 plums, pitted and sliced K cup turbinado sugar Confectioners’ sugar for dusting Ice cream for serving (optional) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Six 4-inch ramekins

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter the ramekins and place them on a baking sheet. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, cardamom, and salt; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a medium mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter on medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the egg yolks, granulated sugar, vanilla, and lemon zest and continue to beat until the mixture is light in color. Reduce the speed to low and add the flour mixture in thirds, mixing just until incorporated; be careful not to overmix. Divide the dough evenly among the ramekins. Fan plum slices in each ramekin, lightly pressing the slices into the dough with your fingers. Sprinkle the tops with turbinado sugar. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the tartlets look set and the tops are bubbly and caramelized to a golden brown. These are best served warm, but they can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Serve the tarts with a light dusting of confectioners’ sugar and a scoop of your favorite ice cream, if desired.

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SHORTCUT PIECRUST easier than pie!

1K cups unbleached allpurpose flour

This piecrust is revolutionary. It’s a press-in crust, with no rolling or chilling required. Plus, it’s buttery and flaky, and so easy to prepare it just may give you the courage to go forth and make a pie on a whim. You can use either granulated sugar or light brown sugar. Both are equally delicious here. Makes one 9-inch piecrust

N cup granulated sugar or packed light brown sugar

K teaspoon fine sea salt 11 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt. Slowly drizzle in the butter and stir with a fork until the mixture looks moist and crumbly. Press the dough evenly over the bottom and up the sides of a 9-inch pie dish. You can crimp the edges decoratively or leave them rustic. If the recipe calls for a prebaked piecrust, preheat the oven to 350°F. Line the pie shell with aluminum foil or parchment and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the foil and beans and bake for an additional 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool before filling. Dried beans or pie weights can be reused time and time again. Mason jars are a great way to store them.

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OLD-FASHIONED FLAKY PIECRUST

This recipe produces a super-tender flaky crust that will give you bragging rights. My grandmother always made hers with lard, but I use a combination of good-quality vegetable shortening and butter instead. The acidity in the vinegar weakens the gluten just enough to make rolling the crust a breeze, and it also prevents shrinkage when the crust is baked.

just like grandma used to make

2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1 cup cake flour (not selfrising) 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Makes two 9-inch piecrusts (or 1 crust for a double-crust pie)

1 large egg L cup plus 2 to 3 tablespoons ice water, plus more if necessary 1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar

K cup cold vegetable shortening, cut into cubes 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flours, sugar, and salt; set aside. In a large measuring cup or a small bowl, beat the egg with L cup of the water and the vinegar. Add the shortening and butter to the flour and, using a pastry blender, cut it in until the butter resembles small peas. Add the egg mixture, gently tossing and mixing with your hands or a fork just until the dough comes together in a ball. If the dough seems too dry, add a little more ice water, about 1 tablespoon at a time as necessary. Gather the dough together on a lightly floured work surface and divide it evenly into 2 balls. Wrap each half in plastic wrap and flatten with the palm of your hand into a disk. Chill for at least 1 hour. The dough can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 2 weeks. Follow the instructions for rolling out the dough as in Buttermilk Chess Pie on page 111 or Salted Caramel Apple Pie on page 118. If the recipe calls for a prebaked shell, preheat the oven to 400°F. Line the pie shell with aluminum foil or parchment and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the foil and beans and bake for an additional 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool before filling. If you have frozen the dough, let it defrost overnight in the refrigerator.

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NILLA WAFER PIECRUST made with everyone’s favorite cookie

3K cups Nilla wafers 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

Something about the flavor of Nilla wafers brings a warm, comforting feeling. Maybe it’s because it’s a cookie we all snacked on as children. This rustic piecrust has a crunchy texture, making it the perfect match for cream pie fillings. Makes one 9-inch piecrust

2 tablespoons sugar Pinch of fine sea salt

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Put the cookies in a zip-top plastic bag and pound them with a rolling pin until they become coarse crumbs. Alternatively, pulse the cookies in a food processor. You should have 2 cups. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), mix the cookie crumbs, flour, sugar, salt, and butter on low speed until the crumbs and flour are evenly moistened, 3 to 5 minutes. You may be tempted to add more butter—don’t. Press the dough evenly over the bottom and up the sides of a 9-inch pie dish. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes, until golden brown. Let cool completely before filling.

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GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST great for cream pies

2 cups graham cracker crumbs (16 crackers)

This recipe makes a nice, thick crust, which gives you more than a hint of the graham cracker goodness. The crust will work in many of our recipes, most notably the S’more Pie (page 108). Makes one 9-inch piecrust

N cup packed light brown sugar

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. In a medium bowl, blend together the graham cracker crumbs and brown sugar. Drizzle in the butter and mix with a fork until the crumbs are evenly moistened. Press the mixture evenly over the bottom and about halfway up the sides of a 9-inch pie dish. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes, until lightly golden. Let cool completely before filling.

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CORNMEAL CRUST perfect for sweet or savory tarts

1L cups unbleached allpurpose flour L cup yellow cornmeal 3 tablespoons sugar

The sweet, nutty flavor of this dual-purpose free-form crust pairs well with both sweet and savory fillings. We use this crust for our Bacon-Jam Empanadas (page 235) and our Rustic PeachBlueberry Tart (page 130). Makes one 14-inch crust

N teaspoon fine sea salt 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cubed

N cup ice water, plus more if necessary

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, and salt. Using a pastry cutter, cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse oatmeal. Add N cup ice water, stirring lightly with a fork until the flour is moistened, then gently knead the dough 4 to 6 times in the bowl, until it comes together. You may have to add up to an additional 2 tablespoons water if the dough seems dry. Shape the dough into a ball and flatten it into a thick disk. Wrap it in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 1 day. You can also freeze this dough for up to 1 month. Before using, defrost overnight in the refrigerator, then let the dough cool to room temperature, 10 to 15 minutes. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 12-inch circle. Place the dough on a baking sheet lined with parchment and bake according to instructions (see Bacon-Jam Empanadas on page 235 and Rustic Peach-Blueberry Tart on page 130).

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GOING WITH THE GRAIN Based in Columbia, South Carolina, Anson Mills (see Resources, page 249) grows, harvests, and mills certified organic corn, rice, wheat, and other near-extinct heirloom grains traditionally grown in the South. This innovative company is single-handedly reviving the varieties of flour, grits, and rice found in the Low Country pantries of yesteryear both by growing its own crops and by giving grants to more than thirty organic growers around the region to bring rustic buckwheat flour and artisanal polenta to your table. It’s a real treat to bake with ingredients that were grown with such care and so close to where we live. We prefer the Carolina Gold rice, which is great for puddings as well as risotto. Anson Mills’ rich-flavored cornmeal is stone-ground superfine or coarse, and their creamy grits come in yellow or white. Their bennecake flour is ground from real benne seeds originally brought from East Africa to the Carolina Sea Islands. It’s fun to experiment with their different cake flours and taste what sweetness or nuttiness they add to a recipe. And we love, love, love eating Anson Mills’ stone-cut oatmeal in hot milk for breakfast or baking it into cookies. Whenever a box arrives from Anson Mills, we unpack it as if it’s Christmas morning. There’s a scene in the movie Stranger than Fiction where Will Ferrell’s character brings Maggie Gyllenhaal, who plays a baker, a bouquet of fresh flours. Griff and I are big enough flour nerds to totally appreciate that gesture.

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C H AP T E R 5

Puddings and Custards Savannah’s English heritage left the city with gloriously green squares, walkable streets, beautiful Victorian homes, and some mighty tasty dishes. One of the most enduring of those is bread pudding. We serve an updated version of this British standard daily as a decadent dessert or midmorning indulgence. Our Bourbon Bread Pudding (page 142) is made with day-old bread, baked in a vanilla cream until golden brown, and blanketed with a rich, buttery sauce spiked with Kentucky bourbon. It makes great use of spare and everyday ingredients, and it reminds us of a time when people made the best of what they had on hand, when even simple things were appreciated for their beauty. That’s the wonderful thing about puddings and custards, whether English or American: the staples of milk, sugar, and eggs are magically transformed into a luscious, silken delight that is both delicious and comforting, whether eaten alone or paired with fruit, cake, or fresh whipped cream.

Rice Pudding (page 155) made with a rich vanilla custard is a creamy-cool finish to a spicy meal. Sliced plums add a sweet-tart flavor to our homey baked Plum Custard (page 151). If you are packing a picnic, make the Summer Fruit Trifle (page 152) by layering seasonal fruits with tea cakes and custard in Mason jars. And what captures the flavor of childhood more than yummy Chocolate Pudding (page 145)? The only thing better might be our Baked Vanilla Custard (page 146).

Bourbon Bread Pudding p. 142 | Chocolate Pudding p. 145 | Baked Vanilla Custard p. 146 | ’Nana Puddin’ p. 148 | Plum Custard p. 151 | Summer Fruit Trifle p. 152 | Rice Pudding p. 155

Puddings aren’t fancy, they’re not complicated, and they never go out of style. Just get your spoon and dig in.

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BOURBON BREAD PUDDING buttery bread and bourbon— what a pair!

FOR THE PUDDING

1K pounds ciabatta, brioche, or challah, cut into 2-inch cubes (9 cups) 4 cups half-and-half 12 tablespoons (1K sticks) unsalted butter

For many Southern folks, a spirit-infused bread pudding is an anticipated addition to any Sunday brunch. At the bakery, as soon as we make a pan of our bread pudding, it seems we need to make more to keep up with the demand. We use our day-old ciabatta, but you can use French baguettes, brioche, or challah instead. Serves 12

1 cup packed light brown sugar K cup granulated sugar 3 tablespoons pure vanilla extract 5 large eggs, lightly beaten 1 cup golden raisins

FOR THE BOURBON GLAZE

4 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons bourbon 1 cup confectioners’ sugar K cup heavy cream

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. To make the pudding: Put the bread in a large mixing bowl and pour the half-and-half over it, tossing it gently to soak the bread. Let sit at room temperature while you prepare the custard. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Remove from the heat, add the brown sugar, granulated sugar, and vanilla, and stir until well combined and smooth. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, then add the butter-sugar mixture, stirring until well combined and smooth. Pour the custard mixture over the bread, tossing gently to incorporate the custard and half-and-half mixture until well combined. Pour the bread mixture into the prepared baking dish and spread it evenly. Sprinkle the raisins over the top and gently work them into the pudding; make sure the liquid covers the bread. Cover the baking dish with aluminum foil and bake for 55 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for an additional 10 to 15 minutes, until the bread pudding is golden brown. Set the pudding aside while you prepare the glaze. To make the bourbon glaze: Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat and add the bourbon and confectioners’ sugar, stirring until incorporated. Add the cream and mix until smooth. Pour the glaze over the top of the bread pudding and let it sit for 15 minutes before serving. The bread pudding is best served warm, but it can be refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to 4 days.

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CHOCOLATE PUDDING classic homestyle goodness

1K cups heavy cream 1 cup whole milk K cup sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

There’s something special about the single-serving size: it lets you know that this is no dump-and-mix kind of dessert, but something someone put her whole heart into. When you bake these little wonders, the smell of chocolate will fill your kitchen. The hardest part is waiting for them to chill. Some things, though, are worth the wait. Serves 6

6 ounces good-quality semisweet chocolate, finely chopped 6 large egg yolks 1 recipe Fresh Whipped Cream (page 90)

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Six custard cups or 4-inch round ramekins

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 250°F. Combine the cream, milk, sugar, and vanilla in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, whisking constantly until the sugar dissolves. Add the chocolate and whisk until it has melted. Remove from the heat. Lightly beat the egg yolks in a medium bowl. Pour the egg yolks in a slow, steady stream into the chocolate-cream mixture, whisking constantly. Divide the mixture among the custard cups or ramekins. Place the cups in a large baking pan that will hold them comfortably and add enough hot water to the pan to come halfway up the sides of the cup. Cover the pan tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil and bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until the puddings are set around the edges but still jiggle slightly in the center. Remove the puddings from the water bath and set on a wire rack to cool to room temperature. Chill the puddings for at least 2 hours. Once cooled, the puddings can be covered with plastic wrap and stored for up to 3 days in the refrigerator. Serve cold, with Fresh Whipped Cream.

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BAKED VANILLA CUSTARD simplicity at its best

6 large eggs O cup sugar Pinch of fine sea salt 4K cups whole milk

This creamy custard is perfect after a light summer supper, or whenever you want a dessert that offers a little dose of comfort. You can serve it with sliced fresh strawberries and blueberries or lightly dusted with confectioners’ sugar. Serves 6

N teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Six custard cups or 4-inch round ramekins

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk the eggs until blended. Add the sugar, salt, and milk, whisking until thoroughly incorporated. Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve to ensure that it is completely smooth. Stir in the nutmeg and vanilla. Divide the custard evenly among the custard cups or ramekins. Place the cups in a large baking pan and add enough hot water to the pan to come halfway up the sides of the cups. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until the custard is set around the edges and just barely jiggles in the center. Carefully remove the custard cups from the water bath and let cool on a wire rack. Serve the custard warm, at room temperature, or chilled. Once cooled, the custard can be covered with plastic wrap and stored for up to 3 days in the refrigerator. Turn your good old-fashioned custard into crème brûlée! After the custard has chilled, sprinkle it with about a tablespoon of granulated or turbinado sugar, or with one of our flavored sugars (see Sweet Note, page 22). Use a kitchen torch to caramelize the top or put the custard under the broiler for about 1 minute until golden.

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’NANA PUDDIN’ oh my—it’s good!

This dessert has reached celebrity status. We think it’s the combination of buttery shortbread cookies and fresh whipped cream that has folks addicted to the stuff. You will always find it on the top shelf front and center in our bakery cases. Serves 12

FOR THE PUDDING

8 egg yolks K cup sugar 5 tablespoons cornstarch K teaspoon salt 3 cups half-and-half 2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract

3K tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature One 14-ounce can condensed milk 1 cup heavy cream 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

36 Janie Q Shortbread Cookie Bars (recipe follows), broken into large pieces 8 large bananas, sliced into coins 1 recipe Fresh Whipped Cream (page 90)

To make the pudding: In a large heatproof bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch, and salt until well blended. The mixture will be thick and pale in color. Set aside. In a medium saucepan, heat the half-and-half to its boiling point (do not let it actually boil), then whisk about 1 cup into the egg-yolk mixture. This will temper the eggs so they don’t curdle. Continuing to whisk, add the remainder of the half-and-half in a steady stream. Set the bowl over a pot of simmering water (make sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water) and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture has thickened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk in the vanilla until combined. Let the mixture sit for 2 to 3 minutes to cool slightly, then whisk in the butter until it is melted and the pudding is smooth and silky. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the pudding so that a skin does not form and let cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Whisk in the condensed milk and chill for 2 hours or overnight. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a medium mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), whip the cream on medium speed until it starts to thicken. Add the confectioners’ sugar and beat until the cream holds nice soft peaks.

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Once the pudding mixture is completely chilled, gently fold in the whipped cream. Return it to the refrigerator to chill until you are ready to assemble. To assemble the pudding: Spoon one-third of the pudding into a large serving bowl. Top with about one-third of the shortbread cookies, followed by a layer of sliced bananas. Repeat the process, ending with bananas. Finish with dollops of Fresh Whipped Cream. Covered with plastic wrap, the pudding will keep, refrigerated, for up to 2 days.

Janie Q Shortbread Cookie Bars | Makes 48 bars 1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1K cups sugar 1 teaspoon salt

4 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 4 cups all-purpose flour

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350° F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a medium mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter, sugar, salt, and vanilla together on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. With the mixer on low speed, add the flour in thirds, beating until incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the dough to another bowl and finish mixing by hand to make sure no bits of flour or butter are hiding at the bottom of the bowl and the dough is thoroughly mixed. Press the dough evenly into the cookie sheet using your fingers. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through the baking time, until golden. Remove the shortbread from the oven and let cool completely. Cut into 2-inch bars. Store the cookies in an airtight container for up to 5 days at room temperature.

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PLUM CUSTARD a fluffy cloud of a dessert

2 cups peeled, pitted, and cubed plums (K-inch cubes) 4 large eggs, separated 1 cup granulated sugar K teaspoon fine sea salt

This custard is one of those desserts you can throw together while your guests are enjoying conversation after dinner. Once the custard is baking and the coffee is brewing, whisk up some fresh whipped cream and you will be ready to serve the custard right out of the oven. You can make individual custard cups or a large one to share. This recipe works great with fresh berries too. Serves 6

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 cup whole milk, at room temperature

Confectioners’ sugar for dusting 1 recipe Fresh Whipped Cream (page 90) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Six 4-inch ramekins

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the plums evenly over the bottom of the ramekins or a 9-inch pie plate; set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and granulated sugar until blended. Add the salt, melted butter, flour, vanilla, and milk one by one, whisking until all the ingredients are thoroughly combined. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), whip the egg whites until soft peaks have formed. Whisk in the egg yolk mixture and continue whisking until the mixture has the appearance of light custard, about 2 minutes. Pour the custard over the plums and bake for 25 to 35 minutes, until the custard is set around the edges and just jiggles in the center. Remove the custard from the oven and let it cool. Just before serving, dust the custard lightly with confectioners’ sugar. Serve warm with a dollop of Fresh Whipped Cream on the side of each serving.

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SUMMER FRUIT TRIFLE luscious fresh berries, tea cakes, and custard, topped with billowy cream

This is our Southern interpretation of the classic English dessert. We use the seasonal fruits available to us in the summer and layer them with old-fashioned sweet tea cakes that are as delicate as ladyfingers, velvety vanilla custard, and whipped cream. Serves 6

FOR THE SWEET CAKES

FOR THE CUSTARD

4 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 4 teaspoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free 1K teaspoons fine sea salt K cup buttermilk, at room temperature 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 cups sugar 2 large eggs

5 large egg yolks 6 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons cornstarch, sifted N teaspoon fine sea salt 2 cups whole milk 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract 2K tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into cubes, at room temperature

raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries K cup sugar One 12-ounce jar raspberry jam N cup Chambord, sweet sherry, Grand Marnier, or kirsch (optional) 1 recipe Fresh Whipped Cream (page 90) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

FOR THE FRUIT

Six 1-pint Mason jars

4 cups mixed fresh berries, such as strawberries,

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment. To make the sweet cakes: In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt; set aside. In a measuring cup or a small bowl, combine the buttermilk and vanilla. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Gradually add the buttermilk and vanilla mixture. Add the flour mixture in thirds, mixing after each addition until just incorporated. Using a small ice cream scoop, scoop the dough onto the prepared baking sheets, spacing the cakes 2 inches apart. You should have 24 cakes. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until lightly golden around the edges. Remove the cakes from the oven and cool them on a wire rack for at least 20 minutes. The cakes will keep for up to 5 days in an airtight container at room temperature. continued

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To make the custard: Whisk the egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch, and salt in a heatproof bowl until thick and pale in color. Set aside. In a medium saucepan, heat the milk over medium heat to just under a boil. Whisking constantly, add about 1 cup of the hot milk to the egg yolk mixture to temper the eggs, so they won’t curdle. Continuing to whisk, add the remainder of the milk in a steady stream. Set the bowl over a pot of simmering water (make sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water) and cook, whisking constantly, until the custard has thickened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk in the vanilla until combined. Let the custard sit for about 2 minutes to cool slightly, then whisk in the butter until it is melted and the custard is smooth and silky. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the custard so that a skin does not form and let cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Then cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or overnight. (If you are in a hurry, you can set the bowl of custard in a larger bowl filled with ice and whisk occasionally for about 15 minutes, until chilled.) Meanwhile, macerate the fruit: In a large bowl, toss the fruit together with the sugar until well combined. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours. To assemble the trifle: Slice each sweet cake in half, spread with the jam, and reassemble to make 24 sandwiches. Place 1 sweet cake sandwich in the bottom of each of the Mason jars and follow with a layer of fruit and a layer of custard; repeat one more time. If using the liqueur, pour 2 teaspoons over each trifle. Top with Fresh Whipped Cream. Covered with plastic wrap, the trifle will keep, refrigerated, for up to 1 day.

You can also make this recipe substituting one Lovely Lemon Loaf (page 54) for the sweet cakes. Cut it into slices and then squares, split to make sandwiches.

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RICE PUDDING a fresh spin on a tradition

Back in the day, rice was one of Georgia’s main crops. The Low Country marshes along the Savannah River produced millions of pounds of grain, which filled the redbrick warehouses along Savannah’s River Street before being shipped across the pond to England. Adding a dash of Grand Marnier elevates the most basic of puddings into a comforting warm treat. Serves 6 to 8

O cup Carolina Gold (see sidebar) or basmati rice K teaspoon fine sea salt 5 cups half-and-half K cup sugar

1 large egg, beaten 1 tablespoon Grand Marnier 2 teaspoons grated orange zest

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract O cup golden raisins V teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Combine the rice, 1K cups water, and the salt in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Give the rice a good stir, then turn the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 6 to 8 minutes, until most of the water is absorbed. Stir in 4 cups of the half-and-half and the sugar and bring to a gentle boil over medium heat. Turn the temperature down to low and simmer, uncovered, for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring periodically to make sure the pudding is not sticking or burning. Slowly add the beaten egg, whisking until well incorporated, and cook for another minute. Remove the pudding from the heat and add the remaining 1 cup half-and-half, the Grand Marnier, orange zest, and vanilla. Return the pudding to the stovetop and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until thickened, 5 to 7 minutes; the rice should be soft but not mushy. Stir in the golden raisins and nutmeg and transfer the pudding to a heatproof bowl. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the pudding to prevent a skin from forming as it cools. Once cooled, the pudding can be covered with plastic wrap and stored for up to 3 days in the refrigerator. Serve warm or chilled.

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C H AP T E R 6

Cookies The cookies at Back in the Day Bakery are based on the classic American recipes that were taught to us by our mothers and grandmothers, but over the years, Griff and I have found ways to add a little more love to these traditional cookies. By putting a pinch of fleur de sel on top of our Chocolate Chip Cookies (page 172), for example, we’ve taken what was once just a sweet and made it a little savory (and some might say totally addicting). Our simple Lavender Shortbread (page 158) becomes a “Miss Hannah” when two shortbread cookies are sandwiched with vanilla buttercream frosting. Because a perfect cookie is so easy to make, cookies are a great place to start teaching children the fundamentals of baking. One of the best days of my baking career was the day I hosted our first baking class at the bakery. The class consisted of five girls, ages four through eight. I had known some of them since before they were big enough to hold their first cupcake. Preparing for the class, I looked through old cookbooks and waded through the stories my mother wrote to me about our family history; I recalled how much fun I used to have baking with her. Seeing the excitement in the children’s small faces reminded me of the joy I have doing what I do every day. We each picked a vintage apron out of the big basket and tied it on, just like I used to at my grandmother’s house. I told the girls my stories as we gathered around a stand mixer, where I showed them how to measure

ingredients and how to cream butter. Each girl had her own brightly colored bowl to put the sugar cookie dough in so that she could feel the consistency with her hands. I taught them how to roll out the dough, then bake the cookies in our ovens. We decorated the cookies with our pastel buttercream icings and hand-tinted sprinkles, and then we ate them.

Lavender Shortbread p. 158 | Mexican Hot Chocolate Shortbread p. 161 | Chocolate Dreams p. 163 | Sugar Cookie Tarts p. 164 | Pecan Sandras p. 166 | Snickerdoodles p. 169 | Bennecake Thumbprint Cookies p. 171 | Chocolate Chip Cookies p. 172 | Oatmeal Coconut Cookies p. 174 | Chocolate Mint Cookies p. 175 | Coconut Macaroons p. 178 | Molasses-Ginger Cookies p. 181 | Almond Crunchies p. 182 | Almond-Anise Biscotti p. 184 |

Though I love to see a kid’s eyes light up when she takes a bite of one of our cookies, there’s something to be said for seeing an adult take a break from being a grown-up and get excited over a cookie too. Sometimes after a long day of making bread, serving sandwiches, and whipping up a variety of baked goods, you can find Griff reverting to his childhood as he sits at a table up front with a smile on his face and dunks one of our famous chocolate chip cookies into a glass of cold milk.

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LAVENDER SHORTBREAD

This is another recipe inspired by Jane Thompson of Mondo Bakery. We adapted her delicate, flaky shortbread recipe by folding in lavender and dusting the cookies with sugar. The fragrant hint of the flowery herb piques customers’ curiosity at first, and then they are hooked. This has become one of our best sellers.

sublime, with floral notes

K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract N teaspoon fleur de sel

Make 24 cookies

1N cups confectioners’ sugar 2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1K teaspoons dried lavender (see Resources, page 249)

About N cup granulated sugar for dusting SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Cookie stamp (optional; see Sweet Note, page 162)

Line two cookie sheets with parchment. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat the butter, vanilla, and fleur de sel on medium speed until smooth and creamy, about 1 minute. Turn the speed down to low, add the confectioners’ sugar, and beat until light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the flour in thirds, beating until just incorporated. Sprinkle in the lavender and mix until just combined, being careful not to overmix. Transfer the dough to another bowl and finish mixing by hand to make sure no bits of flour or butter are hiding on the bottom of the bowl and the dough is thoroughly mixed. The lavender should be evenly distributed throughout the dough. Use a small ice cream scoop to form the cookies, about 1 rounded tablespoon each, and place on the prepared cookie sheets, leaving 1 inch between the cookies to allow for spreading. Flatten each cookie with a cookie stamp dusted with granulated sugar, or gently flatten each cookie with the palm of your hand and then dust the tops with sugar. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or up to 3 hours, before baking. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, for 8 to 10 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through the baking time, until the edges are lightly golden. Let cool completely on a wire rack. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days at room temperature.

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Lemon Shortbread Substitute the grated zest of 2 lemons for the lavender and 2 teaspoons lemon extract for the vanilla extract.

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MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE SHORTBREAD

These cookies taste like a mug of rich hot chocolate. The deep mocha-almond flavor is followed by a kick of cayenne pepper. Don’t let the heat put you off; it only enhances the flavor. Makes 24 cookies

deep and dark, with a bit of a kick

1O cups unbleached allpurpose flour K cup almond flour K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature K teaspoon pure vanilla extract K teaspoon pure almond extract

1 cup packed light brown sugar K cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder K teaspoon ground cinnamon N teaspoon espresso powder or finely ground coffee K teaspoon fine sea salt

N teaspoon cayenne pepper K cup mini semisweet chocolate chips About N cup granulated sugar for dusting SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Cookie stamp (optional; see Sweet Note, page 162)

Line two cookie sheets with parchment. Whisk the flours together in a medium bowl and set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter, vanilla, and almond extract until the mixture is pale in color, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn the speed down to low, add the brown sugar, cocoa, cinnamon, espresso, salt, and cayenne pepper, and continue to mix until the mixture is smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the flour mixture in thirds until just combined. With the mixer running, sprinkle in the chocolate chips, mixing until just combined. Transfer the dough to another bowl and finish mixing by hand to make sure no bits of flour or butter are hiding on the bottom of the bowl and the dough is thoroughly mixed. Use a small ice cream scoop to form the cookies, about 1 rounded tablespoon each, and place on the prepared cookie sheets, leaving 1 inch between the cookies to allow for spreading. Flatten each cookie with a cookie stamp dusted with granulated sugar, or gently flatten each cookie with the palm

It is really difficult to tell when dark chocolate cookies are done. Pull them out when they are firm to the touch on the edges and the sweet smell of chocolate has begun to fill your kitchen.

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of your hand and then dust the tops with sugar. They will have little cracks in the top. Refrigerate the cookies for at least 1 hour, or up to 5 hours. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, for 8 to 10 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through the baking time for even doneness (see Tip). Cool the cookies completely on wire racks. Store the cookies in an airtight container for up to 3 days at room temperature.

Sweet Note: Cookie Stamps I love stamping designs in the tops of our shortbread cookies. I use cookie stamps, which are available in a variety of designs, but I have also used the bottom of a decorative vintage glass in a pinch. To use, simply spray the stamp (or glass) lightly with cooking spray and dip into a plate of sugar, then lightly press into the cookie to emboss the design. You may have to reapply the cooking spray occasionally if the stamp starts to stick to the dough.

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CHOCOLATE DREAMS

True chocolate lovers, meet your ideal cookie! This cookie has as much pure chocolate as we could possibly pack into one. It has a brownie-like exterior and intense gooey goodness inside. Yum! Makes 24 cookies

better than the best chocolate bar

1 cup unbleached allpurpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminumfree V teaspoon fine sea salt 4 large eggs, at room temperature

1K cups packed light brown sugar 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon espresso powder or finely ground coffee

1 pound bittersweet chocolate, chopped 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two cookie sheets with parchment. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt; set aside. In a small bowl, whisk the eggs, brown sugar, vanilla, and espresso together thoroughly; set aside. Put the bittersweet chocolate and the butter in a large heatproof bowl, set the bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water), and heat, stirring the chocolate and butter frequently, until melted and smooth. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool until warm, not hot. Add the egg mixture to the cooled chocolate mixture, stirring until thoroughly combined. Stir in the flour mixture, then fold in the chocolate chips. Use a small ice cream scoop to form the cookies, about 1 rounded tablespoon each, and place on the prepared cookie sheets, leaving about 2 inches between the cookies to allow for spreading. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through the baking time to ensure even doneness. The surface of the cookies should look dry and set but the centers should still be gooey. Let the cookies cool on a wire rack. Store the cookies in an airtight container for up to 3 days at room temperature.

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SUGAR COOKIE TARTS delightfully fruity bites

4 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free 1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

These cookies are so buttery they will melt in your mouth, but the jam is the true star here. I fill them with our homemade jam, but your favorite store-bought jam will work just fine. You can assemble the tarts ahead and refrigerate them until ready to bake. Makes 12 large or 24 small sandwich cookies

1K cups confectioners’ sugar, plus more for dusting 2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract

1 cup Homemade Jam (page 17), raspberry or blackberry preserves, or other jam SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Cookie cutters

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla together until light and fluffy. Add the flour mixture, mixing until just incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes; make sure not to overmix the dough. Scrape the dough from the mixing bowl, divide it in half, and shape into balls. Wrap each piece in plastic wrap, then flatten it into a disk with the palm of your hand. Place the disks in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 weeks, until you are ready to roll them out. To shape the cookies, remove one of the disks of dough from the refrigerator and let it sit at room temperature until it is supple enough to roll out but still quite firm (it will continue to soften as you work with it). Line two cookie sheets with parchment. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface. Place a piece of plastic wrap or wax paper on top and, using a rolling pin, roll out the dough N inch thick. Using a 3- to 4-inch cookie cutter, cut out the cookies in your favorite shapes. Cut a 1½-inch hole in the center of half of the cookies so the jam can peek out. Place the cookies without the holes on one of the lined cookie sheets, about 2 inches apart. Place 1 teaspoon of the jam in the center of each cookie and top with the cookies with the holes. Put the cookies in the refrigerator to chill for at least 30 minutes. (You can reroll the scraps and recut cookies one time.) Repeat with the remaining dough.

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Bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, for 10 to 12 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through the baking time to ensure even doneness. The cookies should be lightly golden on the edges and the jam should be bubbling. Let cool on wire racks for 20 minutes. Sprinkle the cookies lightly with confectioners’ sugar and let cool completely. Store the cookies in an airtight container for up to 3 days at room temperature.

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PECAN SANDRAS

These cookies have the perfect balance of pecans and spice. It is impossible to eat just one! They even inspired a poem by one of our customers (see page 168). Makes 24 cookies

they have a fan in a preacher man!

K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

N teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg K teaspoon fine sea salt K cup confectioners’ sugar, plus more for coating the cookies

2N cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1K cups finely chopped pecans

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two cookie sheets with parchment. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat the butter, vanilla, nutmeg, and salt on medium speed until smooth and creamy, about 1 minute. Turn the speed down to low, add the confectioners’ sugar, and beat until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the flour in thirds, mixing until just incorporated, no more than 1 to 2 minutes. Gradually add the pecans, mixing until just combined; be careful not to overmix. Transfer the dough to another bowl and finish mixing by hand to make sure no bits of flour or butter are hiding on the bottom of the bowl and the pecans are evenly distributed throughout the dough. Use a small ice cream scoop to form the cookies, about 1 rounded tablespoon each, and place on the prepared cookie sheets, leaving 2 inches between the cookies to allow for spreading. Flatten each cookie with the palm of your hand. Bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, for 8 to 10 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through the baking time for even doneness. The cookies should be lightly golden when done. Remove from the oven and let cool on wire racks for about 10 minutes. Fill a medium bowl with enough confectioners’ sugar to coat the cookies. Once the cookies are cool enough to handle, roll them in the confectioners’ sugar, coating them completely, then let cool. Store the cookies in an airtight container for up to 3 days at room temperature.

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ODE TO A PECAN SANDRA Pastor Rod Sprauve, one of our most devoted customers, grew so distraught after a long stretch of not finding his favorite cookie in the cases that he sat down and wrote a poem to give us a nudge. We got the hint!

When love was good and life was fresh, Autumn had come my way. With zeal and to her surprise, I said, “I must stop at Back in the Day.”

Call it blind naïveté Or unbending commitment to One. However you choose to view it, Lavender and Blondie could not be done!

From what seemed nowhere fast I felt that inward draw. There, amidst the plethora of sweets, Was the one for so long I adored.

So each time I enter back, Hoping that it might be my day, When Sandra returns and whispers to me, “I’m here. Just have your way!”

At first I played a coy and Somewhat somber song, But each time I gazed upon another, My heart just felt so wrong.

Even as I think of her return, My emotions are unbound. Call me foolish, gullible, or simply naïve; I’ll just wait for Pecan Sandra to come back around!

I knew that Sandra was The One. But almost as a young lover scorned, I considered a taste of Lavender. “My God,” she was sweetly adorned! Upon that moment of near delight, As Lavender approached my lips, I knew this would have been an act Unjustified with quips. So I came back another day, When Sandra was not there, A Drunken Blondie caught my eye; I considered a torrid affair.

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SNICKERDOODLES eat ’em right out of the oven

How can you not love a cookie with such a funny name? Snickerdoodles are a delicate butter cookie with an almost cake-like texture. They are rolled in cinnamon sugar before baking, and they might remind you of cinnamon toast. Try them paired with our Baked Vanilla Custard (page 146). Makes 36 cookies

FOR THE COOKIES

2K cups unbleached allpurpose flour 2 teaspoons cream of tartar 1 teaspoon baking soda N teaspoon fine sea salt

K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1K cups sugar 2 tablespoons whole milk

2 large eggs, at room temperature FOR THE COATING

K cup sugar 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

To make the cookies: Sift together the flour, cream of tartar, baking soda, and salt; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter, vanilla, and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the milk, then add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the flour mixture in four parts, beating until just combined. Transfer the dough to another bowl and finish mixing with a rubber spatula to make sure no bits of flour or butter are hiding on the bottom of the bowl and the dough is thoroughly mixed. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two cookie sheets with parchment. To make the coating: Mix the sugar and cinnamon together in a small bowl. Use a small ice cream scoop to form the cookies, about 1 rounded tablespoon each, then shape into balls. Roll in the cinnamon-sugar mixture and place on the prepared cookie sheets, leaving 2 inches between them to allow for spreading. Bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, for 8 to 10 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through the baking time for even baking. The cookies should be light golden. Remove from the oven and let cool for at least 10 minutes. Store the cooled cookies in an airtight container for up to 3 days at room temperature.

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BENNECAKE THUMBPRINT COOKIES

Originally brought from Africa to the Low Country, the benne seed dates back to Colonial times. Benne flour looks like powdered gold and has the texture of a superfine cornmeal. Similar to but not the same as sesame seed, the benne adds a peanut butter–like flavor to these fun little thumbprint cookies. Makes 48 cookies

with true savannah roots

1 cup bennecake flour (see Resources, page 249) 1 cup unbleached allpurpose flour

K teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free 12 tablespoons (1K sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup sugar 1 large egg 1 cup good-quality preserves, such as strawberry or raspberry

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two cookie sheets with parchment. In a mixing bowl, whisk the two flours and the baking powder together thoroughly; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a medium mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter and sugar together on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add the egg and mix just until combined. With the mixer on low speed, add the flour mixture in thirds, beating until incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the dough to another bowl and finish mixing by hand to make sure no bits of flour or butter are hiding on the bottom of the bowl and the dough is thoroughly mixed. Use a small ice cream scoop to form the cookies, about 1 rounded tablespoon each, and place on the prepared cookie sheets, leaving 1 inch between the cookies to allow for spreading. Press the center of each cookie with your thumb to make an indention, then fill with 1 teaspoon of the preserves. Bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, for 10 to 12 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through the baking time to ensure even doneness. The cookies should be lightly golden on the edges and the preserves should be bubbling. Remove from the oven and let cool on wire racks. Store the cookies in an airtight container for up to 3 days at room temperature.

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CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES cookie most likely to cause a riot if we run out

Our regular customers will surely flip through this book to see if our famous chocolate chip cookies made the cut. Drumroll, please. Here is the recipe I have been making for years. These cookies possess just the right balance of crispiness and tenderness. Adding a sprinkle of fleur de sel before baking accentuates the chocolate and gives the sweetness an edge. Enjoy with a glass of milk. Makes 24 cookies

2K cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1N teaspoons baking soda 1N teaspoons fine sea salt K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup packed light brown sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature

2 cups semisweet chocolate chunks Fleur de sel for sprinkling

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two cookie sheets with parchment. Sift together the flour, baking soda, and sea salt; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream together the butter, vanilla, and both sugars on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs and mix for no more than 1 minute; the eggs will not be fully incorporated. Turn the speed down to low and add the dry ingredients in thirds, beating until just combined, 1 to 2 minutes. With the mixer running, sprinkle in the chocolate chunks, beating until just combined, about 1 minute. Use a large ice cream scoop or a N-cup measuring cup to form the cookies and place on the prepared cookie sheets, leaving 2 inches between the cookies to allow for spreading. Lightly tap each cookie with the palm of your hand and sprinkle the cookies with fleur de sel. Bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, for 15 to 18 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through the baking time for even doneness. The cookies should be golden brown around the edges but still light in the centers. Let the cookies cool on a wire rack. Store the cookies in an airtight container for up to 3 days at room temperature.

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If you can’t buy your milk in glass bottles anymore, sterilize old milk bottles and creamers and store them in the fridge, then pour your milk into the chilled bottles for serving. Milk tastes so much better served from a glass container!

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OATMEAL COCONUT COOKIES chewy, spicy, and crispy

1N cups unbleached allpurpose flour K teaspoon baking soda N teaspoon fine sea salt K teaspoon ground cinnamon N teaspoon ground allspice N teaspoon ground cloves

These cookies are like a bowl of warm oatmeal sprinkled with raisins and brown sugar in a little to-go package. They have a hint of spice and a touch of toasted coconut that makes them stand out from any other oatmeal cookie you’ve tried. The crisp edges and soft, chewy center give you the perfect cookie experience. Makes 24 cookies

K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 cup granulated sugar K cup packed light brown sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2N cups old-fashioned rolled oats (not quickcooking) K cup golden raisins K cup sweetened flaked coconut, toasted Turbinado sugar for sprinkling

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two cookie sheets with parchment. Sift together the flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, allspice, and cloves; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter, granulated sugar, and brown sugar together on medium speed until light in color, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs and vanilla and beat until light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes. Mix in the oats until just combined. Add the dry ingredients in thirds, beating until just combined, no more than 2 minutes. Sprinkle in the raisins and toasted coconut and mix until just combined. Transfer the dough to another bowl and finish mixing by hand to make sure no bits of flour or butter are hiding at the bottom of the bowl and the dough is thoroughly mixed. Use a large ice cream scoop to form the cookies and place on the prepared cookie sheets, leaving 1 inch between the cookies to allow for spreading. Lightly tap each cookie with the palm of your hand and sprinkle each cookie with just a pinch of turbinado sugar. Bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, for 10 to 12 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through the baking time for even doneness. The finished cookies should be golden brown. Let cool on a wire rack. Store the cookies in an airtight container for up to 3 days at room temperature.

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CHOCOLATE MINT COOKIES

I was always the queen of sales during Girl Scout cookie season. My dad would take me to the back lot of Desilu Studios, where he worked, and I would go to town writing up orders. As it is for so many other people, my favorite Girl Scout cookie is the Thin Mint. Here’s a grown-up version.

just like the girl scouts bake

FOR THE COOKIES

2O cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1N cups Dutch-processed cocoa powder K teaspoon fine sea salt K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract 2 cups confectioners’ sugar

Makes 24 sandwich cookies

K cup packed dark brown sugar 2 large eggs

A drop or two of green food coloring (optional) FOR THE CHOCOLATE COATING

FOR THE CREAM FILLING

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 teaspoon peppermint extract One 1-pound box (4 cups) confectioners’ sugar

1O cups semisweet chocolate chips 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Cookie cutters

Line two cookie sheets with parchment. To make the cookies: Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, and salt; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter, vanilla, and both sugars on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Turn the speed down to low and add the eggs one at a time, beating until combined. Add the flour mixture in thirds, beating until just combined; scrape down the bottom and sides of the bowl as necessary. Transfer the dough to another bowl and finish mixing by hand to make sure no bits of flour or butter are hiding on the bottom of the bowl and the dough is mixed thoroughly. Divide the dough in half and place one half on each prepared cookie sheet. Place a piece of plastic wrap or another sheet of parchment on top of each one and use a rolling pin to roll out the dough to about N inch thick. Wrap the baking sheets in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. continued

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Remove one sheet of dough at a time from the refrigerator and transfer the cookie dough and parchment to the kitchen counter. Cut out cookies with a 2- to 3-inch round cookie cutter. Line the cookie sheet with fresh parchment and place the cutout cookies on the pan, leaving about 1 inch between the cookies to allow for spreading. Chill the cookies in the refrigerator for at least 15 minutes, while you cut out the second pan of cookies. Use the scraps of dough one time to cut out more cookies. Bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, for 8 to 10 minutes. The cookies are done when they are firm to the touch and the smell of chocolate has begun to fill the kitchen. Transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. To make the cream filling: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter and peppermint extract together until smooth. Gradually add the confectioners’ sugar, mixing until light and fluffy. If desired, add a drop or two of green food coloring, mixing until the filling looks minty. To sandwich the cookies: Put a dollop of filling (about 1 tablespoon) on the bottom of one cookie and place another cookie right side up on top. Repeat with the remaining cookies. To coat the cookies: Set a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water (make sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water), add the chocolate chips and butter, and stir frequently until they have completely melted. Remove the bowl from the heat. Set a wire rack on a cookie sheet lined with wax paper or parchment to catch the chocolate drippings. Using two forks, quickly dip each cookie into the warm chocolate, turning to coat, then gently place the cookie on the wire rack. If the dipping chocolate begins to harden, return it to the simmering water and stir until it melts again. Let the cookies stand until set. Store the cookies in an airtight container for up to 3 days at room temperature. Rolled cookie dough bakes best when the dough has been chilled for at least 30 minutes. Even intricate shapes will hold their form when the dough is properly chilled.

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COCONUT MACAROONS a light, flaky indulgence

8 cups sweetened flaked coconut 2 cups sugar

This sweet, moist, and tender coconut macaroon is reminiscent of one of our favorite candy bars: Almond Joy. We add almond extract, and we dip them in chocolate to create the classic macaroon. These are a hit with our gluten-free friends. Makes 24 cookies

1 cup egg whites (about 8 large whites) 2 teaspoons pure almond extract

2 cups coating chocolate (see Tip)

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two cookie sheets with parchment. In a large mixing bowl, toss the coconut and sugar until thoroughly combined. Add the egg whites and almond extract and mix by hand until the coconut is completely moistened. Use a small ice cream scoop to form the macaroons, about 1 rounded tablespoon each, and place on the prepared cookie sheets, leaving 1 inch between the macaroons to allow for spreading. Slightly flatten each macaroon with the palm of your hand. Bake the macaroons, one sheet at a time, for 12 to 15 minutes, until lightly golden. Cool the macaroons completely on wire racks. Set a heatproof bowl over a saucepan filled with simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water), put the coating chocolate in the bowl, and melt it, stirring occasionally until smooth. Dip the cooled macaroons into the coating chocolate, covering them halfway, and put the dipped macaroons back on the parchment-lined cookie sheets. Let the chocolate set. Store the macaroons in an airtight container for up to 1 week at room temperature. Coating chocolate, also known as dipping or enrobing chocolate, is a wonderful chocolate to use for candies, cookies, fruits, and nuts. There is no need to temper chocolate when using this product, making it easy to melt and dip. It sets up quickly with a great shine.

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MOLASSESGINGER COOKIES deep, lush spiciness

2N cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1K teaspoons baking soda 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1K teaspoons ground cloves

When school begins each September, we start making these rich, spicy cookies to welcome the return of cooler weather. Just before baking them, we roll the dark cookies in turbinado sugar to give them a crunchy caramel crust. The insides remain soft and chewy, just like a ginger cake. Makes 16 cookies

1 teaspoon fine sea salt K cup vegetable shortening, at room temperature 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1K cups packed light brown sugar 2 large eggs L cup dark molasses 2 teaspoons ground ginger 1 cup turbinado sugar

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, cloves, and salt; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat the shortening, butter, and brown sugar together on medium speed until smooth, creamy, and light in color, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Scrape down the bottom and sides of the bowl. Add the molasses and ginger and mix on low speed for 1 minute. With the mixer running, add the flour mixture in thirds, mixing just until thoroughly incorporated, no longer than 2 minutes. Transfer the dough to another bowl and finish mixing with a rubber spatula to make sure no bits of flour or butter are hiding on the bottom of the bowl. Chill the dough in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour (the dough can be refrigerated, wrapped well, for up to 4 days). Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two cookie sheets with parchment. Put the turbinado sugar in a small bowl. Use a large ice cream scoop or a N-cup measuring cup to form the cookies, then roll them into balls. Toss and roll the cookies in the turbinado sugar until evenly coated. Place the cookies on the prepared cookie sheets, leaving 2 inches between them to allow for spreading. Slightly flatten each cookie with the palm of your hand, and sprinkle them with a little more turbinado sugar. Bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, for 15 to 18 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through the baking time. The cookies should be golden brown and slightly puffed up. Let cool completely on wire racks. Store the cookies in an airtight container for up to 3 days at room temperature.

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ALMOND CRUNCHIES chewy and nutty, with a hint of anise

3 large eggs 1 teaspoon pure almond extract One 1-pound box (4 cups) confectioners’ sugar 2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour

These cookies are a cross between biscotti and meringue cookies. The texture is both crunchy and chewy, which makes them addictive. The trick to this cookie is making sure the eggs are whipped as thick and frothy as possible. Makes 24 cookies

2 teaspoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon K teaspoon aniseeds, crushed

N teaspoon ground cardamom O cup blanched almonds

Line two cookie sheets with parchment. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat the eggs on high speed until thick and frothy, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the almond extract. If using a stand mixer, transfer the egg mixture to a medium bowl, and clean and dry the mixer bowl. In the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in another large bowl, if using a handheld mixer), combine the confectioners’ sugar, flour, baking powder, cinnamon, aniseeds, and cardamom and mix on low speed until blended. Add the egg mixture, increase the speed to medium, and beat, scraping the sides of the bowl as necessary, until combined. Reduce the speed to low and mix in the almonds until combined. Use a large ice cream scoop or a N-cup measuring cup to form the cookies and place on the prepared cookie sheets about 2 inches apart. Lightly press each cookie into a flattened disk. Cover the sheets with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. To bake, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Remove the cookies from the refrigerator and remove the plastic wrap. Bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the edges of the cookies are golden; rotate the pan halfway through the baking time. Cool the cookies completely on wire racks. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days at room temperature.

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ALMOND-ANISE BISCOTTI a crunchy cookie with attitude

2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour O cup sugar 2 teaspoons aniseeds

Our traditional twice-baked biscotti recipe is the perfect introduction to making this classic Italian cookie. We start with almonds and aniseeds and give a couple of variations below. Choose your own mix of nuts and dried fruits for an endless number of flavoring options. Makes 28 cookies

1K teaspoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free Pinch of fine sea salt 3 large eggs

2K teaspoons pure vanilla extract K teaspoon pure almond extract 1 cup slivered almonds

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment and lightly flour it. Place the flour, sugar, aniseeds, baking powder, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, if using a handheld mixer) and mix on low speed to blend. Add the eggs, vanilla, almond extract, and almonds and mix until the dough comes together in a ball. Transfer the dough to the prepared cookie sheet and press and form it into a 16-by-5-inch rectangular loaf, about 1 inch high. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until slightly firm and golden. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 to 15 minutes. (Leave the oven on.) Using a serrated knife, cut the biscotti loaf into K-inch-thick slices. Space the biscotti evenly on the cookie sheet. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the edges and tops are lightly golden. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. Store the biscotti in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks at room temperature.

Mini Chocolate Chip and Black Currant Biscotti Omit the almond extract and almonds and add K cup mini chocolate chips and K cup dried currants.

Pistachio–Sour Cherry Biscotti Replace the almonds with K cup salted pistachios and add K cup finely chopped dried sour cherries.

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CLEVER IDEAS FOR PACKAGING FOOD GIFTS When it comes to vintage treasures, I am like a magpie collecting all of my favorite things. Griff and I both enjoy scouring the flea markets and shops around Savannah and elsewhere during our travels. We’ve decorated the bakery and our home with the old jars, painted furniture, and other items that we’ve found throughout the years. The authentic feeling of our bakery and our home is due in part to the inviting and nostalgic mix. We share our great flea market finds with others by using our vintage trinkets to package gifts of cookies and confections. With a few tips, you can create the same thoughtful food gifts, made with your own hands and presented with Back in the Day flair. Tall clear jars such as antique battery jars, biscuit jars, and even Mason jars are great for holding handmade treats. Blow up images of your mom’s and grandmother’s recipe cards (I love seeing my relatives’ handwriting again long after they are gone) or perhaps one of your own favorite recipes and wrap it around the jar, then finish it off with a fun tea towel tied with ribbon. Look for small picnic baskets, colorful old bread boxes, vintage cake carriers, or little suitcases for packing meals on the go. Filled with your homemade goods, these make great gifts. You might want to tuck in an unscented votive candle set in a bone china teacup. Teacups make great tea-light holders to create a dim glow at an evening picnic or on a table in the kitchen. Use pretty fluted paper cups to hold separate stacks of cookies and clusters of truffles in a vintage biscuit tin. Throughout the year, collect vintage boxes and tins, and keep a stash of ribbon on hand, so that if an unexpected guest drops in or you’re invited to a party at the last minute, you’ll have a thoughtful gift to offer. Fill the tin with something homemade, and your recipient will have a sweet to snack on and a keepsake to cherish or pass on to someone they love.

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C H AP T E R 7

Brownies and Bars I bet most people don’t know that brownies are on the long list of American inventions. They first appeared in cookbooks in the early twentieth century. Everyone knows that nothing sells better on bake sale tables than brownies. These rich, buttery, chocolaty squares are proof that big flavor can come in small packages. Sometimes sweet packages come in other varieties, too, like our Lemon Pie Bars (page 199), Cherry Pie Bars (page 200), and Pumpkin Crunch Bars (page 203). It’s funny the things you learn about people when you work behind a bakery counter. Griff and I have discovered how passionate people are about their preferences. Folks can’t get enough of these classics, but they are very particular about how they like them: dusted with confectioners’ sugar, slathered in a decadent frosting, or plain. With nuts or without. Middles or corners. Fudgy and chewy, or cakey and light. Everyone has a favorite, and we aim to please. We have one customer who buys her brownies in bulk. She hides them in the freezer and rations them out to her husband—one a night. She says he cannot be trusted to know the secret hiding place, or he’d eat the whole lot in one sitting! My sister, Natalie, always brought brownies to parties. Funny thing is, she wasn’t a baker. She would just doctor up a boxed brownie mix with Caramello bars baked into the center, and everyone thought she was a gourmet cook.

Our approach to baking is to use the freshest and best ingredients, locally sourced if at all possible, and to avoid fillers and preservatives. This gives us more control over the outcome, and the result tastes so much better. So, when it comes to making a batch of brownies, why resort to a mix when they are one of the easiest treats to bake from scratch? The hardest part is waiting for them to cool long enough to cut them. (But honestly, if you are making them at home, who says you have to?)

Cheryl’s Brownies p. 190 | Creole Brownies p. 193 | PB & J Bars p. 195 | Drunk Blondies p. 196 | Lemon Pie Bars p. 199 | Cherry Pie Bars p. 200 | Pumpkin Crunch Bars p. 203 | Sunny Lemon Bars p. 205 |

We have included some of our customers’ favorites in this chapter. Cheryl’s Brownies (page 190) are richness exemplified. A shot of bourbon turns Drunk Blondies (page 196) into a grown-up treat, and the PB & J Bars (page 195) bring out the kid in all of us. And don’t think of the fruit bars as just for summer. You can enjoy them year-round by using frozen or even canned fruit.

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CHERYL’S BROWNIES my favorite!

K cup unbleached allpurpose flour 1K teaspoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free 1K cups semisweet chocolate chips

This brownie is loaded with the good stuff: pure chocolate, crunchy walnuts, and a little espresso—need I say more? Some brownie purists say there shouldn’t be any baking powder in a brownie, but we use a little bit to give it some lift. This is a moist, cakey brownie. Makes 12 large or 24 small brownies

6 ounces unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into cubes 3 extra-large eggs

1K teaspoons espresso powder 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract 1N cups sugar 1 cup chopped walnuts

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9-by13-by-2-inch baking pan and line with parchment, allowing the ends of the paper to hang over two opposite edges of the pan. Whisk the flour and baking powder together in a small bowl and set aside. Put 1 cup of the chocolate chips, the unsweetened chocolate, and the butter in a large heatproof bowl, set it over a pot of barely simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water), and stir frequently until the chocolate and butter are melted and smooth. Remove from the heat. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, espresso powder, vanilla, and sugar until thoroughly combined. Add the egg mixture to the chocolate mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle the flour mixture over the chocolate and mix it until combined. Stir in the walnuts and the remaining semisweet chocolate chips, mixing until just combined. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top with a spatula. Tap the pan firmly on the kitchen counter to get rid of any air bubbles. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. Let the brownies cool completely on a wire rack. Cut the brownies into squares and enjoy. The brownies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

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CREOLE BROWNIES complex, fudgy, and decadent

FOR THE BROWNIES

K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into cubes 8 ounces unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped 2K cups sugar K teaspoon fine sea salt 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 4 large eggs

For the people who fall into the “fudgy” camp when it comes to brownie devotion, this one leads that category with a serious ganache topping infused with chicory coffee. The cocoa nibs give the brownie a crunchy yet tender texture. Makes 12 large or 24 small brownies

1 cup unbleached allpurpose flour N cup cocoa nibs (see Tip) FOR THE GANACHE

1 cup heavy cream 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into cubes L cup sugar N teaspoon fine sea salt

16 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped N cup hot freshly brewed New Orleans–style chicory coffee or strong regular coffee 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract Fleur de sel for sprinkling (optional)

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9-by13-by-2-inch baking pan and line with parchment, allowing the ends of the paper to hang over two opposite edges of the pan. To make the brownies: Set a large heatproof bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water), add the butter and chocolate, and stir frequently until melted and smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat, add the sugar, salt, and vanilla and stir until completely combined. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the flour and stir until the batter is smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the cocoa nibs. Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan and bake for 20 to 22 minutes. When the brownies are done, a slight crack will have formed around the edges. Remove the pan from the oven and let the brownies cool completely on a wire rack. To make the ganache: Combine the cream, butter, sugar, and salt in a large heatproof bowl, set it over a saucepan of barely simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water), and stir until the butter is melted. Add the chocolate and stir until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is completely smooth. continued

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Remove the bowl from the heat, add the coffee and vanilla, and stir until smooth. The ganache will thicken as it cools. To finish the brownies: Invert the brownies onto a baking sheet and remove the parchment. Pour the thickened ganache over the brownies, spreading it evenly with a spatula or a butter knife into a thick layer on top. Let the brownies stand until the ganache is completely set and sprinkle with fleur de sel if desired. Cut into squares. The brownies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week. Cocoa nibs are seeds of the cocoa plant that are fermented, roasted, and then cracked and separated from the husks, leaving a crunchy texture and a subtle chocolate flavor. They make a great substitute for roasted nuts or chocolate chips in baked goods.

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PB & J BARS everything you love about the sandwich in a bar

FOR THE BARS

3 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1K teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminumfree K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

Who doesn’t love a peanut butter and jelly sandwich? So many of us remember our mom packing them into our lunch box. These bars are a delicious after-school treat for kids, and grown-ups love them too—with a cold glass of milk, of course! Makes 12 large or 24 small bars

1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup packed light brown sugar 1 cup creamy peanut butter 2 large eggs One 12-ounce jar strawberry jam, or your favorite flavor

FOR THE GLAZE

2 cups confectioners’ sugar 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 1 tablespoon hot water, or as needed

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-by-13-by2-inch baking pan and line with parchment, allowing the ends of the paper to hang over two opposite edges of the pan. To make the bars: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, and baking powder. Set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter, both sugars, and peanut butter on medium speed until smooth, about 2 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Turn the speed down to low and add the flour mixture, mixing until just combined. The dough will resemble cookie dough. Press two-thirds of the dough evenly over the bottom of the prepared baking pan. Spread the jam evenly over the dough. Distribute small dollops of the remaining dough evenly over the jam. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until golden brown. The edges will be firm and the center should be set. Remove the bars from the oven and let cool to room temperature. To make the glaze: Mix the confectioners’ sugar, vanilla, and hot water together in a medium bowl until smooth. Add more water if necessary to reach the consistency of a glaze. Drizzle the bars with the vanilla glaze, then cut into squares. The squares will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

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DRUNK BLONDIES a party favorite

In the bakery, we give funny little names to all our treats. The customers are as amused by them as we are. Case in point: One day a priest from the neighborhood came into the bakery. He studied the cases, then came up to the counter and said, rather sheepishly, “Can I have a Drunk Blondie and a Hazel Feelgood?”

2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminumfree N teaspoon fine sea salt K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted

Makes 12 large or 24 small bars

2 cups packed light brown sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 2 tablespoons bourbon N cup chopped pecans

K cup sweetened flaked coconut, toasted (see Tip) N cup mini semisweet chocolate chips

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-by-13-by2-inch baking pan and line with parchment, allowing the ends of the paper to hang over two opposite edges of the pan. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt; set aside. Put the butter and brown sugar in a large mixing bowl and stir with a spoon until smooth. Add the eggs, vanilla, and bourbon, and mix until thoroughly combined. Stir in the flour mixture, followed by the pecans, coconut, and chocolate chips. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top with an offset spatula. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the top is golden brown. Remove the pan from the oven and let cool completely on a wire rack. Cut the blondies into bars. The blondies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. The easiest way to toast coconut is in the oven. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the coconut in a baking pan and bake for 5 to 8 minutes, tossing every couple of minutes with a heat-resistant spoon to ensure even browning. Keep a close eye on the coconut, because it can burn easily.

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LEMON PIE BARS extra-tart, extra-light

This bar with a graham cracker crust has old-school charm. Its creamy, cool texture is refreshing, and it is simple to make. To celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, substitute key lime juice and zest for the lemon to make a lime-green pie bar. Makes 12 large or 24 small bars

FOR THE CRUST

FOR THE FILLING

3 cups graham cracker crumbs (approximately 24 crackers) 12 tablespoons (1K sticks) unsalted butter, melted 2 tablespoons sugar

1 cup heavy cream 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest 1 cup fresh lemon juice Two 14-ounce cans sweetened condensed milk

6 large egg yolks 1 recipe Fresh Whipped Cream (page 90)

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-by-13-by2-inch baking pan and line with parchment, allowing the ends of the paper to hang over two opposite edges of the pan. To make the crust: In a medium bowl, combine the graham cracker crumbs, butter, and sugar and blend with a fork until the crumbs are evenly moistened. Press the graham cracker mixture firmly and evenly into the bottom of the prepared pan. Use a piece of parchment to press on the crust with the palm of your hands to make sure it is completely level. Bake the crust for about 8 minutes, until lightly golden. Let cool completely before adding the filling. Turn the oven temperature down to 325°F. To make the filling: In a large bowl, whisk together the heavy cream, lemon zest, lemon juice, sweetened condensed milk, and egg yolks. Pour the filling over the cooled crust. Place the baking pan inside a larger baking pan and pour enough hot water into the larger pan to come halfway up the sides of the smaller pan. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the filling is puffed at the edges and no longer jiggles in the center when the pan is tapped. Remove the pan from the water bath and set it on a rack to cool for 1 hour, then refrigerate until cold. Cut the bars into squares and serve chilled, with the whipped cream. The bars will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

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CHERRY PIE BARS

I cannot tell a lie; these bars are as easy as pie to make. I made them for my first-ever on-camera appearance, which was on a Savannah television station on George Washington’s birthday. Makes 12 large or 24 small bars

a portable slice of pie

FOR THE CRUST AND TOPPING

FOR THE FRUIT FILLING

3 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1K cups sugar N teaspoon fine sea salt O pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into cubes

2 cups sugar O cup unbleached allpurpose flour Pinch of fine sea salt 4 large eggs 1 cup sour cream

Two 16-ounce packages frozen cherries, thawed and drained

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-by-13-by2-inch baking pan and line with parchment, allowing the ends of the paper to hang over two opposite edges of the pan. To make the crust and topping: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), combine the flour, sugar, and salt and mix on low speed until well blended. With the mixer running on low, add the cubed butter a little at a time, beating until the mixture looks dry and crumbly. Reserve 1K cups of the mixture for the crumb topping; refrigerate it while you bake the crust. Press the rest of the mixture evenly over the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake the crust for 12 to 15 minutes, until lightly golden. Let cool for at least 10 minutes. Meanwhile, make the fruit filling: In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the sugar, flour, and salt. Add the eggs and sour cream and whisk until smooth. Gently fold in the cherries. Pour the filling over the crust. Sprinkle the reserved crumb topping evenly on top. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, until the top is golden brown and bubbly. Cool the bars for at least an hour before cutting into squares, or scoop them out with a spoon while they are warm. The bars will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

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PUMPKIN CRUNCH BARS the perfect autumn snack

This alternative to traditional pumpkin pie is silky smooth and warmed with spices and features a shortbread cookie crust. These bars are by far our best seller during the holidays, especially at Thanksgiving. I always have to chuckle, though, when someone asks for them in the middle of the summer. Makes 12 large or 24 small bars

FOR THE CRUST

FOR THE FILLING

K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter K cup sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract K teaspoon fine sea salt 2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour

One 8-ounce package cream cheese, at room temperature One 15-ounce can pumpkin puree 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted 1K teaspoons pure vanilla extract One 1-pound box (4 cups) confectioners’ sugar

K teaspoon ground mace 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 3 large eggs Fresh Whipped Cream, for topping (optional; page 90)

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-by-13-by2-inch baking pan and line with parchment, allowing the paper to hang over the edges. To make the crust: Put the butter in a large heatproof bowl, set it over a pot of barely simmering water, and stir frequently until melted. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar, vanilla, and salt. Add the flour all at once and mix until just incorporated. Press the dough evenly into the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden on the edges but still light brown in the center. Let the crust cool for at least 30 minutes. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a medium mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), beat the cream cheese on medium speed until smooth and creamy, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the pumpkin and mix until thoroughly incorporated, about 5 minutes. Turn the speed to low, add the melted butter and vanilla, and mix until combined, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar, mace, cinnamon, nutmeg, and eggs, beating until all the ingredients are thoroughly combined. Continue to mix on medium speed until smooth, about 5 minutes. Pour into the prepared crust. Bake for 50 minutes to 1 hour, until the center is firm. Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate. Cut the bars into squares and serve chilled with the whipped cream, if desired. The bars will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

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SUNNY LEMON BARS

The buttery shortbread crust has a nice crisp texture that is balanced by the tart and creamy lemon curd topping. Serve the bars with a light dusting of confectioners’ sugar on top. Makes 12 large or 24 small bars

sweet, brilliant flavor

FOR THE CRUST

K pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted K cup granulated sugar 1K teaspoons pure vanilla extract 1K teaspoons fine sea salt

2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour

6 large eggs 1 cup fresh lemon juice

FOR THE FILLING

Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

2N cups granulated sugar 6 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-by-13-by2-inch baking pan and line with parchment, allowing the ends of the paper to hang over two opposite edges of the pan. To make the crust: In a medium bowl, stir the butter, granulated sugar, vanilla, and salt until well blended. Add the flour all at once and stir until it is just incorporated. Press the mixture evenly into the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until the crust is lightly golden. While the crust is baking, make the filling: In a medium mixing bowl, whisk the granulated sugar and the flour together until thoroughly combined. Add the eggs and lemon juice and whisk until well mixed. When the crust is done, carefully remove it from the oven, set the pan on a heatproof surface, and pour in the lemon filling. Turn the oven temperature down to 300°F, return the pan to the oven, and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the filling looks puffy on top and the center no longer jiggles. Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 3 hours. Cut into bars and sprinkle the tops with confectioners’ sugar. Serve chilled. The bars will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

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C H AP T E R 8

Confections I have a confession to make: if Griff and I were not bakers, we most certainly would be candy makers. We spent our childhoods obsessed with the stuff! In fact, Griff actually used to raid his siblings’ piggy banks (true story) to supply his candy habit. Even now, decades later, we have a great appreciation for the craftsmanship of sweet creations, and we stock products from a few carefully chosen artisan candy makers at the bakery. In our imaginary candy store, instead of bakery cases, we would have shelves filled with truffles, hand-twisted lollipops, heavenly squares of brown sugar fudge, and lots and lots of high-quality chocolate bars wrapped in gold foil. One of my favorite places to visit in Los Angeles is See’s Candies, and I adore their molasses chips—which is why Griff created his own version of them (see page 219). Back in the day, the women behind the See’s counter wore black-trimmed white uniforms, and I thought that would be the greatest job to have when I grew up. Fittingly, my favorite book is Roald Dahl’s Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Charlie

finding that golden ticket still gets me every time. And I feel like Willy Wonka when marshmallow season comes to the bakery. What’s more magical than whipped sugar? We bag our big cushiony cubes of homemade Vanilla Marshmallows (page 208) and set them in vintage jars on the counter. The year that Jamie and Bobby Deen featured our Peppermint Marshmallows (page 208) on the Christmas episode of Road Tasted, we shipped thousands of bags nationwide!

Vanilla Marshmallows p. 208 | Butter Mints p. 211 | Pecan Brittle p. 212 | Caramel Popcorn Balls p. 214 | Bittersweet Pecan–Dulce de Leche Truffles p. 217 | Sorghum-Molasses Chips p. 219 |Brown Sugar Fudge p. 220 |

Happiness is owning a bakery, but that doesn’t mean we can’t try out a few candy recipes every now and then.

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VANILLA MARSHMALLOWS worlds better than store-bought

2 cups confectioners’ sugar, plus extra for dusting 3 cups granulated sugar 1N cups light corn syrup

Marshmallows are enjoyed all year round (think s’mores!), but marshmallow season in the bakery is from October through February. Our customers love them in our hot chocolate or just by themselves as a snack. You can make flavored marshmallows using this recipe as the foundation; just replace the vanilla extract with your favorite flavor. Makes 12 large or 24 small marshmallows

N teaspoon fine sea salt 4 envelopes unflavored gelatin 4 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Candy thermometer

Spray a 9-by-13-by-2-inch baking pan lightly with nonstick cooking spray, then coat the pan generously with confectioners’ sugar. In a large saucepan, stir O cup water, the granulated sugar, corn syrup, and salt over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved. Insert a candy thermometer and, without stirring, bring to a boil, then cook until the mixture reaches 240°F, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, pour O cup water into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, sprinkle the gelatin over the top, and stir on low speed so that the gelatin softens. With the mixer on low speed, gradually pour the hot sugar mixture into the gelatin mixture, then blend, gradually increasing the speed to high, until the mixture is fluffy and stiff, 10 to 12 minutes. Turn the speed to low, add the vanilla, and mix to incorporate. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and smooth the top with a rubber spatula that has been sprayed with nonstick spray. Let the marshmallow sit at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours, until firm. Fill a bowl with 2 cups confectioners’ sugar. Invert the pan onto a smooth work surface and unmold the marshmallow. Lightly coat a serrated knife with nonstick spray, then cut the marshmallow into 12 or 24 squares, depending on your preference. Pull apart the squares and toss each marshmallow in the confectioners’ sugar to coat all over. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

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Peppermint Marshmallows Substitute 1 teaspoon peppermint extract for the vanilla.

Chocolate Marshmallows Substitute chocolate extract for the vanilla, and add 3 tablespoons Dutchprocessed cocoa powder along with the chocolate extract.

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BUTTER MINTS melt-in-your-mouth mint flavor

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Every spring, my mother would make these precious little mints, tinting them like colored Easter eggs in all my favorite pastel shades. They look lovely sitting in a candy dish, or you can fill clear cellophane bags with these mints and give them as party favors or hostess gifts. Makes 8 dozen mints

7 cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted, plus more for dusting M cup sweetened condensed milk

1 tablespoon peppermint extract Liquid gel food coloring— choose four colors

Line a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with parchment. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter and salt together on medium speed for 2 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar, sweetened condensed milk, and peppermint extract, turn the speed to low, and mix until the mixture gathers into a ball. Remove the mixture from the bowl, divide it into 4 portions, and form each one into a ball. To color the mixture, add 1 drop of food coloring to one portion, kneading to incorporate it evenly, then add more drops as necessary to darken the shade, kneading to incorporate the color thoroughly. Repeat with the remaining 3 portions. One at a time, lay each portion on a work surface lightly dusted with confectioners’ sugar and roll by hand into a 1-inch-thick rope. Using a paring knife, cut into 1-inch-thick pieces. Layer the mints between sheets of wax or parchment paper in the prepared pan, separating the layers with wax or parchment paper. Cover the mints with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. The mints will keep refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

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PECAN BRITTLE

While we have many peanut farms in Georgia, we are also blessed with an abundance of pecans. And since we also have a number of customers with peanut allergies (including me!), Griff adapted a traditional peanut brittle recipe, using pecans instead. This brittle has the same crackle as the original, but the pecans impart a deeper, warmer flavor.

packs a salty-sweet crunch

2 cups sugar 1 cup light corn syrup 2 cups pecan halves, toasted K teaspoon fine sea salt

Makes ½ pound

2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract K teaspoon baking soda

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Candy thermometer

Generously butter a baking sheet. In a large heavy saucepan, combine the sugar, corn syrup, and 1 cup water and stir over medium-high heat until the sugar dissolves. Insert a candy thermometer and cook, without stirring, until the sugar syrup reaches 238°F. Add the pecans and salt and stir until the mixture reaches 300°F. Immediately remove the brittle from the heat and stir in the butter, vanilla, and baking soda. Pour the brittle onto the prepared baking sheet and spread it evenly with a heatproof spatula. Let cool completely. Break the brittle into bite-sized pieces. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

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SORGHUM: IT’S NOT JUST FOR BISCUITS Dipping hot, buttery biscuits in sorghum syrup is a Southern tradition that dates back to the 1700s. Syrup made from sweet sorghum cane is denser and richer than maple syrup. When it is slow-simmered and skimmed even further, it is distilled into a thick, caramelized dark molasses, much different from the molasses you find in stores, which is actually a by-product of refined sugar. Only 1 million gallons of this rarefied delicacy are produced annually, primarily in the Southern states and Iowa. Some places in Kentucky still mill sorghum cane by horse and buggy and use labor-intensive old-world methods of open-pan cooking to make the molasses. Its robust flavor is a great addition to cookies, gingerbread, candies like the Sorghum-Molasses Chips (page 219), and our Sweet Potato Pie (page 114). We prefer Deaton’s Bee Farm sorghum (see Resources, page 249). You can order online, or look for sorghum molasses at your local farmers’ market.

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CARAMEL POPCORN BALLS a treat to make with the kids

12 cups popped corn 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup packed light brown sugar O cup light corn syrup

Sweet, sticky, gooey, and crunchy, these caramel popcorn balls are as much fun to eat as they are to make. They’re an especially crafty project to pull together with kids to keep them busy in the kitchen, and you don’t have to wait until fall to make them. Makes 12 to 15 balls

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus extra for shaping the balls 1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar N teaspoon fine sea salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Candy thermometer

Spread the popcorn on two lightly buttered baking sheets. In a large saucepan, combine the granulated sugar, brown sugar, 1 cup water, the corn syrup, butter, vinegar, and salt and heat over medium heat, stirring, until the sugars dissolve. Insert a candy thermometer and bring to a boil, without stirring, then cook until the mixture reaches 250°F. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Pour the sugar syrup evenly over the popcorn, tossing the popcorn with a buttered heatproof spatula until completely coated. Let cool for 5 to 10 minutes. When the popcorn is cool enough to handle, coat your hands with butter and shape the popcorn into large balls; you should have 12 to 15 balls. Let the popcorn balls cool completely. Wrap the popcorn balls individually in wax paper or small cellophane bags and store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

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BITTERSWEET PECAN—DULCE DE LECHE

Have I mentioned my love for pecans? When Griff and I found out there are actual truffles, called pecan truffles, growing in the soil around the pecan trees of southern Georgia, it was a lightbulb moment. We have sampled the savory version of this truffle at Savannah’s renowned Elizabeth on 37th restaurant, and we were inspired to come up with this sweet truffle version of our own.

TRUFFLES

intensely rich, satisfyingly delicious

Makes 30 truffles

O cup pecan halves FOR THE GANACHE

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

O cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 tablespoons dulce de leche liqueur, such as Dulseda

2 tablespoons Dutchprocessed cocoa powder, for coating

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the pecan halves in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake for 5 to 6 minutes, until lightly toasted. Remove the pan from the oven and let the pecans cool completely. Finely chop the pecans; set aside. To make the ganache: Put the chocolate in a medium bowl; set aside. Combine the cream and butter in a small saucepan and bring to just under a boil over medium heat, stirring the pan to melt the butter. Remove the cream from the heat, pour it over the chocolate, and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Stir the ganache gently with a spoon until it is smooth and glossy. Add the liqueur and K cup of the chopped pecans and stir to combine. Cover the ganache with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, about 4 hours. To make the coating: Combine the remaining chopped pecans and the cocoa powder in a small bowl, stirring to mix thoroughly. To make the truffles: Line a baking sheet with parchment. Scoop up the ganache with a small melon baller to form imperfect balls, roll the balls in the pecans and cocoa powder to coat, and place on the prepared baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the truffles firm up, at least 1 hour. To store the truffles, layer them between sheets of wax paper or parchment in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. To serve, bring the truffles to room temperature.

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SORGHUMMOLASSES CHIPS

These are one of my absolute favorite candies. They are based on the classic honeycomb candy, except we use sorghum molasses instead. Sorghum has a slightly sweet earthy flavor, which adds a deep richness to this candy that is pretty amazing.

chocolate-covered crunchy treats

1K cups sugar 3 tablespoons unsalted butter N teaspoon cream of tartar

Makes ½ pound

K cup sorghum molasses (see page 213) 2K teaspoons baking soda 6 ounces dark coating chocolate

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Candy thermometer

Line a baking sheet with parchment. In a large heavy saucepan, combine the sugar, L cup water, the butter, and the cream of tartar and heat over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Insert a candy thermometer and bring the mixture to a boil, without stirring, then cook until it registers 250°F. Add the molasses, without stirring, and continue to boil until the sugar mixture registers 295°F. Remove from the heat, sift the baking soda over the mixture, and whisk for 10 to 20 seconds to incorporate. The mixture will bubble up—don’t be alarmed, that will create the honeycomb texture. Quickly pour the candy onto the prepared pan (do not spread the mixture) and let cool completely. Once the candy has cooled, break it into pieces about 2 inches in size. Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl, set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water (make sure the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water), and melt the chocolate, stirring occasionally, until smooth. Remove from the heat. Using tongs or a fork, dip each piece of candy into the chocolate to coat it fully, then shake the excess chocolate from it and place on the prepared baking pan. Let the chocolate cool and set. Store the chips in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.

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BROWN SUGAR FUDGE

This rich brown sugar cousin to chocolate fudge has a nice velvety texture and a delicious balance of sweet and salty. Makes 36 squares

lush, velvety texture

2 cups packed light brown sugar 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons light corn syrup

N teaspoon fine sea salt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

K cup pecan pieces (optional) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Candy thermometer

Butter an 8-by-8-by-2-inch baking pan. In a medium saucepan, combine the brown sugar, granulated sugar, heavy cream, corn syrup, and salt and heat over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Insert a candy thermometer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture reaches 238°F. Add the butter and stir until melted and fully incorporated, then remove the pan from the heat and let the mixture stand, without stirring, until it cools to lukewarm (about 120°F). Add the vanilla to the fudge and beat with a wooden spoon until smooth and creamy. If desired, fold in the nuts. Pour the fudge into the prepared pan and let cool to room temperature. Once the fudge has set, cut it into squares. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.

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C H AP T E R 9

Savories You’d think Griff and I wouldn’t even want to look at a kitchen once we leave the bakery each day, but no. When we go home, Griff continues to play around with flavors in the kitchen and test recipes. And when he makes something he thinks will be a hit, like Brown Sugar–Tomato Jam (page 238), it usually ends up on the bakery’s menu. Griff has had two obsessions his entire life: food and music. He developed his adventurous spirit for food by exploring the ethnic markets around his childhood home and by following Julia Child, Jacques Pépin, and Father Dominic on PBS. From Julia, he learned fearlessness; from Pépin, precision and technique. But it was the bread-baking Benedictine monk who influenced Griff the most. He was drawn to Father Dominic’s stories of family and friends as he showed viewers “the art and heart” of making bread. The connection Father Dominic made between compassion and bread served as the gateway to Griff’s passion for baking bread using oldworld methods. As he grew older, Griff worked in restaurants by day and played in a band at night. He found a similarity between the freedom of musical improvisation and exploring the different flavors of spices and herbs. And he still brings curiosity to the

bakery every day as he riffs on turning the ordinary into something special. It might be a humble chicken potpie reimagined into an extraordinary, flavorful cobbler chock-full of roasted vegetables (see page 232), or a bread pudding transformed from a dessert into a savory dish with salty pancetta (see page 231). Even the cheese crackers found on every Savannah party table are elevated in the bakery with rosemary or spicy pecans (see pages 245 and 247).

Herbed Tomato-Chive Tarts p. 224 | Vegetable Potpie p. 227 | Pancetta-Fontina Bread Pudding p. 231 | Roasted Chicken and Vegetable Cobbler p. 232 | Bacon-Jam Empanadas p. 235 | Brown Sugar–Tomato Jam p. 238 | White Bean Soup with Bacon p. 241 | Rustic Cheddar Pecan Rounds p. 242 | Rosemary-Pecorino Crackers p. 244 | Candied Rosemary Pecans p. 245 |Hot-and-Spicy Mixed Nuts p. 247 |

We always have many taste testers (aka customers) at the bakery eagerly awaiting a sample of whatever Griff comes up with next.

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HERBED TOMATOCHIVE TARTS refined and delicate

Our savory tarts fill a niche when it comes to breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Customers ask for them throughout the day. A simple cornmeal crust and custard filling are the foundation for so many different combinations of vegetables, herbs, and meats. Here is our most popular version. Serves 4

FOR THE CORNMEAL CRUST

FOR THE FILLING

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter N teaspoon fine sea salt N teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper N teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 cup unbleached allpurpose flour 2 tablespoons yellow cornmeal

1 cup heavy cream 2 large eggs 1 large egg yolk 1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 20 grape tomatoes 1 bunch chives, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)

K cup coarsely grated Pecorino Romano cheese Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg Olive oil for drizzling Balsamic vinegar for drizzling SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Four 4-inch ramekins

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. To make the crust: Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes and cook for 1 minute. Remove the saucepan from the heat. In a medium bowl, stir the flour and cornmeal together to combine. Add the melted butter mixture and mix with a wooden spoon until incorporated. Divide the crust mixture evenly among the ramekins. Press the crust over the bottom of each ramekin. Put the ramekins on a baking sheet and bake for 14 to 16 minutes, or until the crust is a light golden color. Remove the ramekins from the oven and let cool to room temperature. Meanwhile, to make the filling: In a medium bowl, whisk the cream, eggs, and egg yolk until smooth. Stir in the thyme and pepper. To assemble the tarts: Arrange 5 tomatoes in each crust. Sprinkle the chives and cheese on top. Pour the cream mixture over the tomatoes and cheese, then sprinkle nutmeg on top. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the filling is set around the edges but the center still has a slight jiggle. Remove from the oven and drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Let the tarts set for 5 to 10 minutes, and serve warm.

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VEGETABLE POTPIE comfort-food delicious

Certain foods stay in our memories for the comfort they deliver. Eating hot grilled cheese sandwiches and tomato soup on a rainy day is one of my comfort food memories. A steaming bowl of chicken soup is another. Savory potpies also bring those warm, homey feelings to mind. This recipe can be made with different vegetable combinations too. Serves 6

FOR THE VEGETABLES

FOR THE CREAM FILLING

3 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 large carrots, peeled and cut into K-inch cubes 2 celery ribs, cut into K-inch pieces 1 medium sweet onion, such as Vidalia, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, minced K teaspoon red pepper flakes Salt and freshly ground black pepper One 8-ounce package frozen corn, thawed One 8-ounce package frozen baby peas, thawed

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter K cup unbleached allpurpose flour 2K cups chicken stock K cup heavy cream N teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional) Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg (optional) Salt and freshly ground black pepper

10 ounces cream cheese, cut into cubes 1 teaspoon fine sea salt K teaspoon dried rosemary N teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten with K teaspoon water, for egg wash SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Six 6-inch ramekins

FOR THE CRUST

K pound (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes 3 cups unbleached allpurpose flour

To prepare the vegetables: Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the carrots, celery, and onion and sauté for 5 minutes, or until slightly softened. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, and salt and pepper to taste and sauté for another 5 minutes. Stir the corn and peas into the vegetable mixture, pour into a large bowl, and set aside. To make the cream filling: Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Sprinkle the flour over the butter and whisk until a smooth paste forms. Whisk in the chicken stock and cook, whisking, until the sauce thickens slightly. Add the heavy cream, cayenne, and nutmeg, if desired, and salt and pepper to taste. Pour the cream filling over the vegetable mixture and stir until combined. continued

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Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Put the ramekins or six oven-safe bowls on a baking pan. Meanwhile, make the crust: Put the butter and flour in a food processor and pulse until the mixture appears crumbly. Add the cream cheese, salt, rosemary, and pepper and pulse until the dough begins to form a ball. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Using a floured rolling pin, roll the dough out N inch thick. Put one of the ramekins on the dough to measure and, using a knife, cut a circle 1K inches larger in diameter than the ramekin. Cut out 5 more circles. Divide the filling among the ramekins, filling them about three-quarters full. Lay the dough rounds over the tops of the ramekins, making sure the dough hangs evenly over the edges. Brush the dough with the egg wash. Bake the potpies for 20 to 25 minutes, until the crust is golden brown. Serve immediately.

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ENJOYING VINTAGE EVERY DAY Whenever I pick up a faded floral bowl or a well-worn tablecloth, I imagine what stories it could tell. Longtime customers bring me their finds or call me when they are out treasure hunting to tell me about something I just have to come and see. Luckily, Griff also appreciates home goods with history. In both our home and the bakery, we’ve tried to create a feeling of beautiful simplicity by repurposing things so their stories can continue to play on. You can do this too, with the heirlooms passed down through your family or with the unusual items you pick up at thrift shops and estate sales. Add warmth to a table setting by layering soft cotton linens. Don’t worry about mixing patterns: it’s the mix that gives the table character and charm. In need of a cake plate or pedestal? Turn a small bowl upside down and put a vintage plate on top to create a makeshift stand. Use poster-board tack to keep the pieces from slipping. Don’t hesitate to stack things—two cake pedestals stacked together can make a statement on the dessert table. Vintage linens are great for lining bread baskets. Small tablecloths (especially stained or torn ones that you can no longer use on the table) make perfect makeshift aprons. Fold two opposite corners together, making a triangle. The fold goes at your waist, with the two points as ties. I love to hang small hooks in designated locations throughout the kitchen for tea towels. Simply sew small tabs onto your towels so that you can hang them. Cuttings from your yard add to the effortless feel of a table setting. Don’t be afraid of using just green. Here in Savannah, we take boughs from the magnolia trees, palm fronds, and jasmine sprigs to adorn our table. Flowers don’t always have to be lush and bountiful—let the food take that role. I often pluck a bunch of fresh herbs and arrange them in old milk bottles. Any vintage container, even if it’s missing a lid, makes a great vase or utensil holder. Look for old cookie jars, pitchers, and sugar bowls. Teacups make great containers for a succulent garden. They can be used to create a very sweet centerpiece too; try several teacups filled with the succulents mixed and matched. Whether it’s a vintage tablecloth or a single flower in a treasured vase, you can always find little ways to give your table a personal touch. It will make even the simplest meal feel like a special occasion.

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PANCETTA-FONTINA BREAD PUDDING herbaceous and savory

Bread pudding dates back centuries, and the basic recipe offers endless opportunities for sweet or savory variations. In this version, we combine the delicate nuttiness of Fontina cheese with salty Pecorino and pancetta. Hearty crusty loaves, such as French baguettes or Italian ciabatta, are best in this recipe. Serves 12

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil K pound thickly sliced pancetta or applewoodsmoked bacon, cut into K-inch pieces 1 cup finely diced sweet onions, such as Vidalia 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 tablespoon herbes de Provence

2 teaspoons minced fresh sage 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper K teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional) 5 large eggs 3 cups half-and-half

1K pounds crusty bread, such as a baguette, cut into K-inch cubes (about 9 cups) 2 cups grated Fontina cheese (about 9 ounces) K cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9-by13-by-2-inch baking dish with olive oil. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until browned and almost crisp. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a bowl and set aside. Add the onions and garlic to the skillet, turn the heat down to medium-low, and sauté until tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the herbes de Provence, sage, salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes, if using, and cook for 1 minute, stirring to combine. Add the onion mixture to the bowl with the pancetta and toss to combine. Whisk the eggs in a medium bowl until blended. Add the half-and-half and whisk until blended. Spread a layer of bread cubes in the prepared baking dish. Spread half of the onion-pancetta mixture on top. Reserve K cup of the Fontina cheese and scatter half the remaining cheese over the onion mixture, followed by the rest of the bread, the remaining onion-pancetta mixture, and the other half of the Fontina. Pour the egg mixture over the top. Let sit for 10 minutes, pressing on the bread occasionally to help it absorb the liquid. Cover the baking dish with foil and poke holes in it for venting. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes. Remove the foil and top the bread pudding with the reserved Fontina and the Pecorino Romano. Bake, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden. Let cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve warm.

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ROASTED CHICKEN AND VEGETABLE COBBLER a potluck favorite

FOR THE FILLING

12 tablespoons (1K sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 cup finely diced yellow onion 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 5 cups reduced-sodium canned chicken broth 3 peeled carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces 3 celery ribs, chopped into 1-inch pieces 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Nostalgia comes in many forms. For Griff, who was born in Minnesota—the capital of the hot dish—nothing is more comforting than a warm casserole. With that memory in mind, he makes a chicken cobbler that hits the sweet spot where the chicken and vegetables are seasoned just right. Instead of using a traditional potpie crust, he tops it off with our buttery biscones. Serves 8

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1K cups heavy cream K cup unbleached allpurpose flour 5 cups store-bought roasted chicken, shredded into bite-sized pieces (one 2-pound chicken) 1 cup frozen peas, thawed 1 cup frozen corn, thawed One 8-ounce package frozen pearl onions, thawed 1 teaspoon fennel pollen (see Tip)

K teaspoon dried thyme K teaspoon ground sage N teaspoon cayenne pepper Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg FOR THE TOPPING

1 recipe Buttermilk Biscones (page 14), made without the dried fruit, egg wash, and sanding sugar, unbaked N cup buttermilk

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F. Butter a 9-by-13-by2-inch baking dish. To make the filling: Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the diced onion and garlic and sauté until tender, about 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth, carrots, celery, salt, and pepper, lower the heat to low-medium, partially cover the pot, and simmer, stirring constantly, for 15 minutes. Stir in the cream, raise the heat to medium, and cook, covered, until all the vegetables are tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Meanwhile, blend the remaining 8 tablespoons butter and the flour in a small bowl to make a smooth paste. continued

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When the vegetables are tender, lower the heat and whisk the flour paste bit by bit into the broth until combined. Add the roasted chicken, peas, corn, pearl onions, fennel pollen, thyme, sage, cayenne, and nutmeg, cover the pot, and let the filling simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 10 minutes. Transfer the filling to the prepared baking dish. Arrange the unbaked biscones over the filling, leaving about N inch between them. Brush the biscones with the buttermilk and bake for 20 minutes, or until they turn golden brown. Remove from the oven and let stand for 5 minutes before serving.

Fennel pollen has a distinctive honey flavor with hints of anise, coriander, and dill, and the aroma is intoxicating. It’s the spice that will make your taste buds say, “Hmmm, what is that incredible flavor?” Gathered from blooming fennel plants, the flowers are air-dried and sorted. It takes many fennel flowers to produce a small amount of this delicious spice. Since it is difficult to gather, much like saffron, fennel pollen is a bit expensive. Thankfully, you need only a small amount to add another layer of flavor to just about anything.

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BACON-JAM EMPANADAS bacon makes everything better

FOR THE BACON JAM

1 pound applewoodsmoked bacon 1 medium Vidalia onion, sliced (see Sweet Note, page 237) 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

One of my favorite smells in the morning is when Griff makes a big batch of bacon jam to feed the lunch crowd. It’s a combination of sweet caramelized Vidalia onions, smoky bourbon, rich coffee, and a splash of Coca-Cola, with a blend of herbs and spices that is reminiscent of pulled pork but still very much its own thing. It’s the perfect filling for an empanada. Makes 7 empanadas

N cup packed dark brown sugar N cup freshly brewed strong coffee 2 tablespoons Coca-Cola N cup balsamic vinegar N cup maple syrup 2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon

FOR THE EMPANADAS

1 recipe Cornmeal Crust (page 138), unbaked 1 cup shredded white cheddar cheese 1 large egg yolk, beaten with K teaspoon water, for egg wash

To make the bacon jam: Roughly chop the bacon into 1-inch pieces. Render the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat until the edges start to turn brown but the bacon is still soft. Drain the rendered bacon fat by setting a fine-mesh sieve over a bowl and spooning the bacon and rendered fat into the sieve. Let the bacon sit in the sieve while you caramelize the onions. Add the sliced onions to the skillet, then add 1 tablespoon of the rendered bacon fat and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the onions are translucent and starting to brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the garlic, rosemary, red pepper flakes, brown sugar, coffee, Coke, balsamic vinegar, and maple syrup, stir, and bring to a light boil. Add the drained bacon and bring back to a light boil, then turn the heat down to medium-low. You want to keep a low, steady simmer to reduce the liquid and thicken it without burning the jam. The process of reduction can take as long as 1 hour. If the jam becomes too dry, add 1 to 2 tablespoons water. Remove the bacon jam from the heat, add the bourbon, and let cool for 20 minutes. Depending on your preference, you can use it as is or process the jam in a food processor to a less chunky consistency. Once it has cooled, you can put the jam in an airtight container and store it for up to 1 week in the refrigerator. continued

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To make the empanadas: Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Remove the cornmeal crust from the refrigerator and let it sit on the counter for 15 minutes. Lightly flour a smooth work surface. Use a rolling pin to roll the dough out V inch thick. Using a 4-inch biscuit cutter or tart mold, cut the dough into 7 circles. Place 1 tablespoon bacon jam and about 2 tablespoons shredded cheese in the center of each round. (You will have extra bacon jam.) Fold each dough round in half over the filling, making sure you don’t tear the dough or push the filling to the edges, and, using your fingers, press the edges together and then crimp them with the tines of a fork to seal them. Place the empanadas on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes. Remove the empanadas from the oven and brush them with the egg wash, then bake for an additional 8 to 10 minutes, until golden brown. Serve the empanadas warm.

Sweet Note: Vidalia Onions Many a sweet onion aspires to be a Vidalia. To be called a Vidalia, it must grow in Toombs County, Georgia, or in one of twelve surrounding counties. Vidalia onions taste best between the months of April and June, when they are harvested, and they are readily available at supermarkets and roadside farm stands then, but modern storage methods can give them a longer shelf life. If you can’t find Vidalias, Texas Sweets or Walla Wallas make a good substitute.

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BROWN SUGARTOMATO JAM an unexpected mix of spices

2 pounds Roma (plum) tomatoes, coarsely chopped 1 cup packed light brown sugar 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

A good condiment is a welcome addition to any meal, and tomato jam is one of our favorites. It goes well with pretty much anything you can think of: burgers, cream cheese with crackers, or omelets for breakfast. Makes 2 cups

1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground five-peppercorn blend 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

N teaspoon ground cinnamon N teaspoon ground cloves

In a large, heavy nonreactive saucepan, combine the tomatoes, brown sugar, lemon juice, ginger, cumin, salt, pepper, red pepper flakes, cinnamon, and cloves and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring often. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the mixture reduces to the consistency of a thick jam, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Transfer the jam to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

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WHITE BEAN SOUP WITH BACON a rich and creamy lunch

1K cups dried white beans, such as cannellini or navy, soaked overnight in cold water 3 tablespoons olive oil 4 celery ribs, diced

Griff reinterpreted his favorite cold-weather lunch from childhood, bean with bacon soup, for the bakery’s lunch menu. We serve Southern Corn Cakes (page 51) as a side with each bowl. Serves 4

2 large sweet onions, such as Vidalia, finely diced 1 parsnip, peeled and finely diced 4 cups chicken stock 8 strips bacon

Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 teaspoons finely chopped fresh parsley Smoked paprika

Drain and rinse the soaked beans. Fill a large saucepan with water, add the beans, bring to a boil over high heat, and boil for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the beans are soft, about 1 hour. Set a sieve over a bowl and drain the beans; reserve the liquid. Remove any loose bean skins. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Heat the olive oil in the same pan over medium heat. Add the celery, onions, and parsnip and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes. Add half the beans and the chicken stock and cook over mediumlow heat until the vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Meanwhile, line a baking sheet with parchment and lay the bacon strips on the paper, without overlapping. Bake the bacon for 15 to 20 minutes, until slightly crispy. Remove the bacon from the oven and drain on paper towels. When it is cool, dice 4 strips and cut the remaining 4 strips in half. Using a food processor or a blender, blend the soup to a smooth consistency. Return it to the saucepan and reheat (if necessary) over low heat, adding a little of the bean liquid if the soup is too thick. Add the remaining beans and the diced bacon to the soup and season to taste with salt and pepper. To serve, ladle the soup into four bowls and garnish each with 2 bacon strip halves. Finish with a sprinkle of the parsley and a dusting of smoked paprika.

If you are in a hurry, you can use two 14-ounce cans of cannellini beans, drained and rinsed, in place of the dried beans.

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RUSTIC CHEDDAR PECAN ROUNDS loved by every proper southerner

1K cups unbleached allpurpose flour K teaspoon fine sea salt N teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste

Savannahians like a good celebration, and you will find some variation of cheese straws or cheese crackers on every party platter. This version has a consistency more like shortbread, and it uses those earthy Georgia pecans. You can adjust the level of heat by varying the amount of cayenne pepper. Makes 48 rounds

2 tablespoons pecan pieces 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes

2 cups shredded extrasharp cheddar cheese Smoked paprika (optional)

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and cayenne pepper. Put the pecan pieces in a food processor and pulse a few times, until they are finely chopped. Add the butter and cheese and pulse until a smooth paste has formed. Add the flour mixture and pulse a few more times, until the ingredients are well combined. Remove the dough from the food processor and place it in a bowl. Using a teaspoon, scoop out a piece of dough, roll it into a ball, and place it on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough, leaving about 2 inches between them. Use the tines of a fork to flatten each round slightly, creating a crisscross pattern. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, rotating the sheet halfway through the baking time for even baking. Remove the pan and sprinkle each round lightly with paprika, if desired, for a little color and smokiness. Allow the rounds to cool on a wire rack. The rounds can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

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ROSEMARYPECORINO CRACKERS

These crispy, buttery crackers complement an ice-cold beer and make the perfect snack for Griff and me while we are watching football on a lazy Sunday afternoon. My nephew plays for the Philadelphia Eagles, so I watch with my team jersey on! Makes 24 crackers

aromatic and flavorful

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese

K teaspoon dried rosemary, finely chopped K teaspoon fine sea salt

K teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper 1N cups unbleached allpurpose flour

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter for 1 minute. Add the cheese, rosemary, salt, and pepper, turn the mixer to low, and mix until just combined. Continuing to mix on low, add the flour and mix until the dough comes together in large clumps, about 1 minute. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and press it into a ball, then roll it gently into a 9-inch-long log. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 1 hour, or up to 3 days. When you are ready to bake the crackers, position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and unwrap it. Slice it into W-inch-thick rounds and place them on the prepared baking sheet, at least 1 inch apart for even baking. Bake the crackers for 18 to 20 minutes, until lightly brown on the edges; rotate the sheet halfway through the baking time. Cool the crackers completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 week. This is a great make-ahead dough; you can freeze it for up to 3 months. When you want some crackers, just pull the log out of the freezer and defrost it for 3 to 4 hours in the refrigerator, then slice and bake.

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CANDIED ROSEMARY PECANS sweet, spiced, and flavored with rosemary

N cup maple syrup 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons turbinado sugar

I love the sweet-salty combination of these nuts. While they are easy to eat by the handful, they make a great garnish to a leafy green salad or, chopped superfine, a coating on a small log of goat cheese. Makes 2 cups

1 teaspoon fleur de sel or coarse sea salt, plus more for sprinkling K teaspoon dried rosemary

N teaspoon cayenne pepper V teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 cups pecan halves

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 250°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment. In a small saucepan, combine the maple syrup, butter, and turbinado sugar and heat over medium-low heat until the butter is melted. Remove from the heat and stir in the salt, rosemary, cayenne, and cinnamon. In a medium bowl, toss the pecans with the butter mixture, coating the pecans well. Spread in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for about 15 minutes, tossing the pecans occasionally, until they are glazed, shiny, and a deep golden brown. Remove the nuts from the oven and sprinkle lightly with fleur de sel to taste, tossing to coat. Let cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

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HOT-AND-SPICY MIXED NUTS a warm mix of textures and flavors

1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

We love to make a big batch of these spicy nuts to snack on for the few free afternoons we get to share with friends. The nuts get warmth from the cinnamon and cloves, smoke from the cumin, and a kick of spice from the cayenne. Makes 2 cups

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon V teaspoon ground cloves K cup cashews

K cup blanched whole almonds K cup pecans K cup walnuts 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Line a large baking sheet with parchment. Melt the butter in a medium skillet over low heat. Add the cumin, cayenne, cinnamon, and cloves and stir until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the cashews, almonds, pecans, and walnuts, stirring until they are coated with the spiced butter mixture, then sauté until the nuts are toasted, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the nuts from the heat and spread them evenly on the prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle with the salt and let cool completely. Store for up to 1 week in an airtight container.

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RESOURCES The following companies and vendors supply Back in the Day Bakery with high-quality ingredients and baking supplies. Griff and I encourage you to check them out for your own baking needs.

Anson Mills

(803) 467-4122 www.ansonmills.com An artisanal mill in South Carolina that handmills grits, rice, cornmeal, and specialty flours (including bennecake flour) from organic heirloom grains.

Bake It Pretty

(828) 254-2929 www.bakeitpretty.com Nostalgic supplies for baking, crafting, partymaking, and everyday celebrating.

Batdorf and Bronson Coffee Roasters

(800) 955-5282 www.batdorfcoffee.com Sustainable and fair-trade single-origin and blend roasters who provide the Bohemian blend coffee and espresso we serve at the bakery.

Chocosphere

(877) 992-4626 www.chocosphere.com A supplier of fine chocolate from around the world.

Deaton’s Bee Farm Sorghum

9025 Highway 301 Walls, MS 38680-9333 (662) 781-1286 Sorghum molasses sourced from a Mennonite family in Tennessee.

Etsy

www.etsy.com An online community of artisans buying and selling handcrafted and vintage items.

Everyday Is a Holiday

www.everyday-is-a-holiday.blogspot.com Art inspired by baked goods and vintage treasures. We have quite a collection, including the “Keep Calm and Have a Cupcake” sign that proudly hangs in our bakery.

Fabrika

140 Abercorn Street Savannah, GA 31401 (912) 236-1122 fabrikafinefabrics.com Fabrics, notions, and gifts.

Habersham Antiques

2502 Habersham Street Savannah, GA 31401 (912) 238-5908 An antiques mall in midtown Savannah that features a wide array of vintage treasures.

Halligan Norris Smith

halligansmith.com Designer, crafter, and cake flag maker.

Herriott Grace

www.herriottgrace.bigcartel.com A supplier of handcrafted cake plates, rolling pins, and other wooden things.

resources

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Katie Runnels

Rae-Dunn Clay

www.theconstantgatherer.blogspot.com www.raedunn.com A supplier of vintage treasures, Katie, a mixed- Wonderful “clay art,” including plates, bowls, media artist, is inspired by her love of family and saltcellars. and traditions, vintage wares, and Cheryl’s buttercream frosting.

Savannah’s Clay Spot

King Arthur Flour Baker’s Catalogue

(800) 827-6836 www.kingarthurflour.com An employee-owned company that has been making pure flours (including almond) for more than two hundred years and an essential source for baking supplies.

ShopSCAD

(912) 356-1117 www.kitchenwareoutfitters.com A Savannah-based shop that offers professional-quality cookware and kitchen gadgets, including ice cream scoops.

340 Bull Street Savannah, GA 31401 (912) 525-5180 www.shopscadonline.com A gallery-style shop that features artwork and designs created exclusively by the talented community of students, staff, faculty, and alumni of the Savannah College of Art and Design.

Layer Cake Shop

Shop Sweet Lulu

Lucky Day Emporium

The Spice House

Kitchenware Outfitters

www.layercakeshop.com A one-stop shop for adding vintage charm to homemade cookies, cakes, and cupcakes.

(813) 681-3414 www.luckydayemporium.blogspot.com A purveyor of vintage and refurbished goods and a supplier of many of the vintage treasures shown in this book.

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1305 1/2 Barnard Street Savannah, GA 31401 www.savannahsclayspot.com A great source for cake plates and other wares by local Savannah potter Lisa Alvarez Bradley.

www.shopsweetlulu.com Lovely food packaging and party styling essentials from all over the world.

www.thespicehouse.com Merchants of the highest quality handselected and hand-prepared spices and herbs, including lavender, fennel pollen, and cardamom.

resources

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Terra Cotta

34 Barnard Street Savannah, GA 31401 (912) 236-6150 Great gifts and home accessories.

Williams-Sonoma

(877) 812-6235 www.williams-sonoma.com A specialty retailer of gourmet cookware and kitchen tools.

Terrain at Styer’s

(877) 583-7724 www.shopterrain.com This Philadelphia-area store and online boutique sells salts, organic lavender, heirloom seeds, canning jars, and treasures for the home.

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS We would not be who we are without our loyal community of guests who support us from day to day. They give us the freedom to create amazing food for their families and friends. Writing The Back in the Day Bakery Cookbook has been the most rewarding experience of our lives. It takes a village to run a business and write a cookbook simultaneously. We would like to thank all of our employees past and present, especially Margaret Murphy, our very first employee; she will always be our “number one” supporter and friend. Thank you to Amy Paige Condon for “happy dance days” and for inspiring us to find our own voice. Thanks to Jane Thompson, who guided us in the beginning; her talents and coolness are unmatched. Thanks to our editor, Judy Pray, who was simply heaven-sent. She was everything we needed her to be and so much more. Her handson approach, dedication, and amazing work ethic were the perfect fit for us. We appreciate her for making sure no detail was overlooked. Judy never once made us feel that we didn’t have what it took to produce a book that would have our own flair, and we are forever grateful. A special heartfelt thanks to Grace Bonney for believing that we had something special; her support and guidance are amazing. Thanks to Ingrid Abramovitch for putting our project on the table at Artisan. Thank you to our publisher, Ann Bramson, for saying yes to the little bakery that could, and to the Artisan team—Susan Baldaserini, Kevin Brainard, Amy Corley, Sibylle Kazeroid, and Nancy Murray—for the tools and encouragement to make it happen. Thank you to Squire Fox, whose photography is beyond amazing, and to his talented assistant

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Sully Sullivan for daily tunes and laughter. Also to Cynthia Groseclose, food stylist extraordinaire. Working with this team made our food look its very best. Thank you to our very special friends Johdi and Richard Mennie and Elizabeth Knox for being there when we needed them and for picking up Natalie’s pom-poms. Their cheers of support and friendship surround us with warming love and encouragement. We would like to thank Paula Deen. Her foreword touched our hearts in more ways than we can express, and her mentorship and advice are priceless. Thanks to Haylie Waring for being such a loyal and giving friend. Her talent is awe-inspiring. No one could ever have helped us express our vision more than she did. Also to her talented family, Ginger Hall Waring, Peggy Jane Hall, Dawn Hall Dalton, Brenda Hall Martin, and Angela Hall Randall for sharing their personal collections of antiques and props. Thanks to Diane Kaufman and all of the mermaids of Mermaid Cottages for inviting us into their homes on Tybee Island for wonderful staycations that are always a pleasure. A special thank-you goes to LaRaine and Nikki Montgomery for supplying hugs and reminding us to believe in the gift of miracles. Last but certainly not least, we would like to thank our parents, who raised us with love and encouraged us to believe in our dreams, and our siblings, for their love and support. We are proud to be a part of the Artisan family and to have the opportunity to share our bakery, our recipes, our philosophy of food, and the power of food memories with you!

acknowledgments

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INDEX page numbers in italics refer to illustrations .

almonds: Almond-Anise Biscotti, 184, 185 Almond Crunchies, 182, 183 Hot-and-Spicy Mixed Nuts, 246, 247 anise: Almond-Anise Biscotti, 184, 185 apples: Apple Brown Betty, 124–25 Salted Caramel Apple Pie, 118, 119, 120 Applewood-Smoked-Bacon Biscones, 16

bacon: Applewood-Smoked-Bacon Biscones, 16 Bacon-Jam Empanadas, 235, 236, 237 White Bean Soup with Bacon, 240, 241 baking powder, 6 baking soda, 6 bananas: Banana Bread with Chocolate Chips, 45 Banana–Chocolate Chip Cupcakes, 74–75 Brown Sugar Banana Bread, 45 ’Nana Cream Pie, 112, 113 ’Nana Puddin’, 148 beans: White Bean Soup with Bacon, 240, 241 Bennecake Thumbprint Cookies, 170, 171 berries: freezing, 19

Homemade Jam, 17 Summer Fruit Trifle, 152, 153, 154 biscones, 16 Applewood-Smoked-Bacon Biscones, 16 Blueberry Biscones with Lemon-Zest Glaze, 16 Buttermilk Biscones, 14, 15, 16 Cinnamon Biscones with Vanilla Drizzle, 16 Roasted Chicken and Vegetable Cobbler, 232, 233, 234 biscotti: Almond-Anise Biscotti, 184, 185 Mini Chocolate Chip and Black Currant Biscotti, 184 Pistachio–Sour Cherry Biscotti, 184 Bittersweet Pecan–Dulce de Leche Truffles, 216, 217 Blackberry Cobbler, 121, 122, 123 Blondies, Drunk, 196, 197 blueberries: Blueberry Biscones with Lemon-Zest Glaze, 16 Blueberry Buckle, 52–53, 53 Blueberry-Maple-Cassis Syrup, 32, 33 Blueberry Muffins, 18, 19 Rustic Peach-Blueberry Tart, 130, 131 bourbon: Bourbon Bread Pudding, 142, 143 Bourbon Glaze, 142, 143 Bourbon Pecan Pie, 106, 107

breads: Banana Bread with Chocolate Chips, 45 Brown Sugar Banana Bread, 45 Chocolate Bread, 56, 57 Irish Soda Bread, 42, 43 breakfast, 13–38 Applewood-Smoked-Bacon Biscones, 16 Baked Eggs with Grits and Ham, 34, 35 Blueberry Biscones with Lemon-Zest Glaze, 16 Blueberry Muffins, 18, 19 Buttermilk Biscones, 14, 15, 16 Buttermilk Cornmeal Pancakes, 32, 33 Carrot–Golden Raisin Muffins, 23 Chewy Granola Bars, 36 Cinnamon Biscones with Vanilla Drizzle, 16 Cinnamon-Sugar-Doughnut Muffins, 20, 21 Cranberry-Orange Muffins, 25 Guava–Sweet Cheese Turnovers, 30, 31 Ham and Cheese Pastry Puffs, 28, 29 Homemade Jam, 17 Hot Chocolate Mix, 38 Maple-Cinnamon Granola, 37 Mocha-Oatmeal Muffins, 24 Peach Cobbler Muffins, 26, 27 brownies and bars, 185–205 Cherry Pie Bars, 200, 201 Cheryl’s Brownies, 190, 191

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brownies and bars (cont.) Chewy Granola Bars, 36 Creole Brownies, 192, 193–94 Drunk Blondies, 196, 197 Janie Q Shortbread Cookie Bars, 149 Lemon Pie Bars, 198, 199 PB & J Bars, 195 Pumpkin Crunch Bars, 202, 203 Sunny Lemon Bars, 204, 205 brown sugar: Brown Sugar Banana Bread, 45 Brown Sugar Bundt Cake, 92, 93 Brown Sugar Fudge, 220 Brown-Sugar Tomato Jam, 238, 239 butter: creaming, 7 at room temperature, 6 Buttercream Frosting, 65, 66 buttermilk: Buttermilk Biscones, 14, 15, 16 Buttermilk Chess Pie, 111 Buttermilk Cornmeal Pancakes, 32, 33 Butter Mints, 210, 211 Butterscotch Glaze, 92, 93

cakes, 63, 79–99 Brown Sugar Bundt Cake, 92, 93 Carrot Cake, 91 Chocolate Heaven, 82, 83, 84 Coconut Cake, 85, 86, 87 Deep, Dark Flourless Chocolate Cake, 94, 95, 96 Ginger Cake Squares, 90 Hummingbird Cake, 88, 89 Lovely Lemon Loaf, 54–55, 55 Red Velvet Cake, 79, 80, 81

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Banana–Chocolate Chip Sterling Cheesecake, 97, 98, 99 Cupcakes, 74–75 Summer Fruit Trifle, 152, 153, Bittersweet Pecan–Dulce de 154 Leche Truffles, 216, 217 Candied Rosemary Pecans, 245 Cheryl’s Brownies, 190, 191 caramel: Chocolate Bread, 56, 57 Caramel Cream Cheese Chocolate Buttercream, 83, 84 Frosting, 72, 73 Chocolate Chip Cookies, 172, Caramel Popcorn Balls, 214, 173 215 Chocolate Cream Cheese Caramel Topping, 58, 59–60 Frosting, 75 Salted Caramel Apple Pie, Chocolate Dreams, 163 118, 119, 120 Chocolate Heaven, 82, 83, 84 carrots: Chocolate Marshmallows, Carrot Cake, 91 208 Carrot–Golden Raisin Chocolate Mint Cookies, 175, Muffins, 23 176, 177 cashews: Hot-and-Spicy Mixed Chocolate Pudding, 144, 145 Nuts, 246, 247 cocoa nibs, 194 cheese: Coconut Macaroons, 178, 179 Guava-Sweet Cheese Creole Brownies, 192, 193–94 Turnovers, 30, 31 Deep, Dark Flourless Ham and Cheese Pastry Chocolate Cake, 94, 95, 96 Puffs, 28, 29 Ganache, 192, 193–94 Pancetta-Fontina Bread Hot Chocolate Mix, 38 Pudding, 230, 231 Mexican Hot Chocolate Rosemary-Pecorino Crackers, Shortbread, 160, 161–62 244 Mini Chocolate Chip and Rustic Cheddar Pecan Black Currant Biscotti, 184 Rounds, 242, 243 Mocha-Oatmeal Muffins, 25 cheesecake: Sterling Pecan-Chocolate-Espresso Cheesecake, 97, 98, 99 Coffee Cake, 46, 47 cherries: Pinkies Chocolate Lunch-Box Cherry Compote, 98, 99 Treats, 68, 69–70 Cherry Pie Bars, 200, 201 Red Velvet Cake, 79, 80, 81 Pistachio–Sour Cherry S’more Pie, 108, 109, 110 Biscotti, 184 Sorghum-Molasses Chips, Cheryl’s Brownies, 190, 191 chicken: Roasted Chicken and 218, 219 Vegetable Cobbler, 232, cinnamon: 233, 234 Cinnamon Biscones with chocolate: Vanilla Drizzle, 16 Banana Bread with Chocolate Cinnamon–Sour Cream Chips, 45 Coffee Cake, 48, 49, 50

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Cinnamon Sticky Buns, 58, 59–60 Cinnamon-Sugar-Doughnut Muffins, 20, 21 Maple-Cinnamon Granola, 37 cobblers: Blackberry Cobbler, 121, 122, 123 Roasted Chicken and Vegetable Cobbler, 232, 233, 234 cocoa nibs, 194 coconut: Coconut Buttercream, 68, 70 Coconut Cake, 85, 86, 87 Coconut Cream Pie, 116, 117 Coconut Macaroons, 178, 179 Drunk Blondies, 196, 197 Oatmeal Coconut Cookies, 174 Tinted Coconut, 68, 69–70 toasting, 196 coffee cake: Cinnamon–Sour Cream Coffee Cake, 48, 49, 50 Pecan-Chocolate-Espresso Coffee Cake, 46, 47 compote: Cherry Compote, 98, 99 confections, 207–20 Brown Sugar Fudge, 220 Butter Mints, 210, 211 Caramel Popcorn Balls, 214, 215 Chocolate Marshmallows, 208 Pecan Brittle, 212 Peppermint Marshmallows, 208 Sorghum-Molasses Chips, 218, 219 Truffles, 216, 217

Vanilla Marshmallows, 206, 208, 209 cookies, 157–85 Almond-Anise Biscotti, 184, 185 Almond Crunchies, 182, 183 bar, see brownies and bars Bennecake Thumbprint Cookies, 170, 171 Chocolate Chip Cookies, 172, 173 Chocolate Dreams, 163 Chocolate Mint Cookies, 175, 176, 177 Coconut Macaroons, 178, 179 Lavender Shortbread, 158, 159 Lemon Shortbread, 158 Mexican Hot Chocolate Shortbread, 160, 161–62 Mini Chocolate Chip and Black Currant Biscotti, 184 Molasses-Ginger Cookies, 180, 181 Oatmeal Coconut Cookies, 174 packaging ideas, 186, 187 Pecan Sandras, 166, 167 Pistachio–Sour Cherry Biscotti, 184 Snickerdoodles, 169 Sugar Cookie Tarts, 164–65, 165 cookie stamps, 162 corn: Southern Corn Cakes, 51 Cornmeal Crust, 138 Cranberry-Orange Muffins, 25 Cream, Whipped, 90 cream cheese: Caramel Cream Cheese Frosting, 72, 73

Chocolate Cream Cheese Frosting, 75 Cream Cheese Frosting, 80, 81 Cream Cheese Icing, 58, 59–60 Pumpkin Crunch Bars, 202, 203 Spiced Cream Cheese Frosting, 81 Crème Brûlée, 146 Creole Brownies, 192, 193–94 cupcakes, 63–78 Banana–Chocolate Chip Cupcakes, 74–75 Old-Fashioned Cupcakes, 64, 65, 66 Pinkies Chocolate Lunch-Box Treats, 68, 69–70 Strawberry Cupcakes, 76, 77–78 Sweet Potato Cupcakes, 71–72, 73 currants: Mini Chocolate Chip and Black Currant Biscotti, 184 custards, see puddings and custards

Deep, Dark Flourless Chocolate Cake, 94, 95, 96 Drunk Blondies, 196, 197

eggs, 6 Baked Eggs with Grits and Ham, 34, 35 Meringue, 103, 104 at room temperature, 5–6 Empanadas, Bacon-Jam, 235, 236, 237

index

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fennel pollen, 234 flour, measuring, 6–7 frostings, see icings

icings: Buttercream Frosting, 65, 66 Caramel Cream Cheese Frosting, 72, 73 Chocolate Buttercream, 83, 84 Chocolate Cream Cheese Frosting, 75 Coconut Buttercream, 68, 70 Cream Cheese Frosting, 80, 81 Cream Cheese Icing, 58, 59–60 Fresh Strawberry Frosting, 76, 78 Ganache, 192, 193–94 Spiced Cream Cheese Frosting, 81 Irish Soda Bread, 42, 43

Ganache, 192, 193–94 gifts, packaging ideas for, 186, 187 ginger: Ginger Cake Squares, 90 Molasses-Ginger Cookies, 180, 181 glazes: Bourbon Glaze, 142, 143 Butterscotch Glaze, 92, 93 Lemon-Zest Glaze, 16 Lovely Lemon Glaze, 54–55, 55 Simple Syrup, 87 Vanilla Drizzle, 16 Graham Cracker Crust, 97, 99, 137 granola: jam and jelly: Chewy Granola Bars, 36 Bacon-Jam Empanadas, 235, Maple-Cinnamon Granola, 37 236, 237 grits: Baked Eggs with Grits and Bennecake Thumbprint Ham, 34, 35 Cookies, 170, 171 Guava-Sweet Cheese Brown-Sugar Tomato Jam, Turnovers, 30, 31 238, 239 Homemade Jam, 17 Jam Butter, 17 ham: PB & J Bars, 195 Baked Eggs with Grits and Sugar Cookie Tarts, 164–65, Ham, 34, 35 165 Ham and Cheese Pastry Janie Q Shortbread Cookie Bars, Puffs, 28, 29 149 Herbed Tomato-Chive Tarts, 224, 225 Hot-and-Spicy Mixed Nuts, Lavender Shortbread, 158, 159 246, 247 lemon: Hummingbird Cake, 88, 89 Lemon Meringue Pie, 102, 103, 104 Lemon Pie Bars, 198, 199

258

Lemon Shortbread, 158 Lemon-Zest Glaze, 16 Lovely Lemon Loaf, 54–55, 55 Sunny Lemon Bars, 204, 205

Macaroons, Coconut, 178, 179 maple syrup: Blueberry-Maple-Cassis Syrup, 32, 33 Chewy Granola Bars, 36 Maple-Cinnamon Granola, 37 marshmallows: Chocolate Marshmallows, 208 Marshmallow Topping, 108, 109, 110 Peppermint Marshmallows, 208 Vanilla Marshmallows, 206, 208, 209 Meringue, 103, 104 Mexican Hot Chocolate Shortbread, 160, 161–62 mint: Butter Mints, 210, 211 Chocolate Mint Cookies, 175, 176, 177 Peppermint Marshmallows, 208 mise en place, 5 Mocha-Oatmeal Muffins, 24 molasses: Molasses-Ginger Cookies, 180, 181 Sorghum-Molasses Chips, 218, 219 muffins: Blueberry Muffins, 18, 19 Carrot–Golden Raisin Muffins, 23 Cinnamon-Sugar-Doughnut Muffins, 20, 21

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Cranberry-Orange Muffins, 25 Mocha-Oatmeal Muffins, 24 Peach Cobbler Muffins, 26, 27

pecans: Bittersweet Pecan–Dulce de Leche Truffles, 216, 217 Bourbon Pecan Pie, 106, 107 Candied Rosemary Pecans, 245 ’Nana Cream Pie, 112, 113 Drunk Blondies, 196, 197 ’Nana Puddin’, 148 Hot-and-Spicy Mixed Nuts, Nilla Wafer Piecrust, 136 246, 247 nuts: Hot-and-Spicy Mixed Pecan Brittle, 212 Nuts, 246, 247 Pecan-Chocolate-Espresso Coffee Cake, 46, 47 Pecan Sandras, 166, 167 oatmeal: Rustic Cheddar Pecan Mocha-Oatmeal Muffins, 24 Rounds, 242, 243 Oatmeal Coconut Cookies, Peppermint Marshmallows, 174 208 Oatmeal Topping, 126, 127 piecrusts: “Ode to a Pecan Sandra” (Rod Cherry Pie bars, 200, 201 Sprauve), 168 Cornmeal Crust, 138 Old-Fashioned Cupcakes, 64, Graham Cracker Crust, 97, 65, 66 99, 137 Old-Fashioned Flaky Piecrust, Nilla Wafer Piecrust, 136 134 Old-Fashioned Flaky Piecrust, onions, Vidalia, 237 134 orange: Cranberry-Orange Shortcut Piecrust, 134 Muffins, 25 Sunny Lemon Bars, 204, 205 Vegetable Potpie, 226, 227–28 packaging ideas for gifts, 186, pies, 101–38 187 Bourbon Pecan Pie, 106, 107 Pancetta-Fontina Bread Buttermilk Chess Pie, 111 Pudding, 230, 231 Coconut Cream Pie, 116, 117 PB & J Bars, 195 Lemon Meringue Pie, 102, peaches: 103, 104 how to peel, 131 ’Nana Cream Pie, 112, 113 Peach Cobbler Muffins, 26, 27 Salted Caramel Apple Pie, Peach-Strawberry Shortcake, 118, 119, 120 128–29, 129 S’more Pie, 108, 109, 110 Rustic Peach-Blueberry Tart, Sweet Potato Pie, 114, 115 130, 131 pie weights, 134 peanut butter and jelly: PB & J Pinkies Chocolate Lunch-Box Bars, 195 Treats, 68, 69–70

Pistachio–Sour Cherry Biscotti, 184 plums: Plum Custard, 150, 151 Plum Tartlets, 132, 133 popcorn: Caramel Popcorn Balls, 214, 215 puddings and custards, 141–54 Baked Vanilla Custard, 146, 147 Bourbon Bread Pudding, 142, 143 Chocolate Pudding, 144, 145 Crème Brûlée, 146 ’Nana Puddin’, 148 Pancetta-Fontina Bread Pudding, 230, 231 Plum Custard, 150, 151 Rice Pudding, 155 Rum Custard Sauce, 125 Summer Fruit Trifle, 152, 153, 154 Pumpkin Crunch Bars, 202, 203

raisins: Carrot–Golden Raisin Muffins, 23 Red Velvet Cake, 79, 80, 81 rhubarb: Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp, 126, 127 Rice Pudding, 155 Rosemary-Pecorino Crackers, 244 Rum Custard Sauce, 125

Salted Caramel Apple Pie, 118, 119, 120 savories, 223–47 Bacon-Jam Empanadas, 235, 236, 237 Brown-Sugar Tomato Jam, 238, 239

index

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savories (cont.) Candied Rosemary Pecans, 245 Herbed Tomato-Chive Tarts, 224, 225 Hot-and-Spicy Mixed Nuts, 246, 247 Pancetta-Fontina Bread Pudding, 230, 231 Roasted Chicken and Vegetable Cobbler, 232, 233, 234 Rosemary-Pecorino Crackers, 244 Rustic Cheddar Pecan Rounds, 242, 243 Vegetable Potpie, 226, 227–28 White Bean Soup with Bacon, 240, 241 shortbread: Janie Q Shortbread Cookie Bars, 149 Lavender Shortbread, 158, 159 Lemon Shortbread, 158 Mexican Hot Chocolate Shortbread, 160, 161–62 Shortcakes, Peach-Strawberry, 128–29, 129 Shortcut Piecrust, 134 Silpat mats, 130 Simple Syrup, 87 S’more Pie, 108, 109, 110 Snickerdoodles, 169 sorghum, 213 Sorghum-Molasses Chips, 218, 219 soup: White Bean Soup with Bacon, 240, 241 Southern Corn Cakes, 51 Spiced Cream Cheese Frosting, 81 spices, 11

260

spice and herb blend, 28 sprinkles, hand-tinted, 67, 67 Sterling Cheesecake, 97, 98, 99 strawberries: Fresh Strawberry Frosting, 76, 78 Peach-Strawberry Shortcakes, 128–29, 129 Strawberry Cupcakes, 76, 77–78 Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp, 126, 127 Sugar Cookie Tarts, 164–65, 165 sugars, flavored, 22 Summer Fruit Trifle, 152, 153, 154 sweet potatoes: Sweet Potato Cupcakes, 71–72, 73 Sweet Potato Pie, 114, 115 Swiss chard: Baked Eggs with Grits and Ham, 34, 35 syrups: Blueberry-Maple-Cassis Syrup, 32, 33 Simple Syrup, 87

tarts: Herbed Tomato-Chive Tarts, 224, 225 Plum Tartlets, 132, 133 Rustic Peach-Blueberry Tart, 130, 131 Sugar Cookie Tarts, 164–65, 165 tea cakes, for Summer Fruit Trifle, 152, 153, 154 temperature, 5–6 tomatoes: Brown-Sugar Tomato Jam, 238, 239 Herbed Tomato-Chive Tarts, 224, 225

tools, 8 toppings: Caramel Topping, 58, 59–60 Marshmallow Topping, 108, 109, 110 Oatmeal Topping, 126, 127 Truffles, 216, 217

vanilla: Baked Vanilla Custard, 146, 147 Vanilla Drizzle, 16 Vanilla Marshmallows, 206, 208, 209 vegetables: Roasted Chicken and Vegetable Cobbler, 232, 233, 234 Vegetable Potpie, 226, 227–28 Vidalia onions, 237

walnuts: Hot-and-Spicy Mixed Nuts, 246, 247 Whipped Cream, 90 White Bean Soup with Bacon, 240, 241

index

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