The Art and Mystery of Curing, Preserving, and Potting all Kinds of Meats, Game, and Fish

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•rfSSM

LEEDS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Classmark:

(somil A

L—

OOCKSi*

i'7l

THE ART AND MYSTERY

CURING, PRESERVING, AND POTTING ALL KINDS OF

MEATS, GAME, AM) FISH; ALSO-

THE ART OF PICKLING AND THE PRESERVATION

FRUITS AND VEGETABLES. ADAPTED AS "WELL EOR THE "WHOLESALE DEALER AS ALL HOUSEKEEPERS.

[By a

WHOLESALE CURER OE COMESTIBLES.

C

C*

A * i^L

LONDON

CHAPMAN AND HALL, 1864.

193,

PICCADILLY.

01

PREFACE.

This

treatise

comprises light and heavy salting,

saccharine and muriatic preservative

by gentle heat and

air currents,

peat and turfs, marinating of

fluids,

drying

smoking with woods,

fish

and bucaning* of

meats, and the whole processes of potting, preserving,

and pickling.

That there this, is

exists

a necessity for such a work as

but too evident from the disappointments ex-

perienced every summer,

not.

only by those

who

pur-

chase at the shops, but the heads of families, who, replenishing their store-rooms *

“Bucaning”

is

annually, reasonably

a method of preserving meats,

&c., partly

by

and redrying and partly by smoking with the embers of wood fires, had its have must It taining all the palatable and nutritious juices. of a chimney, origin with the rude hunters of the forests, who, for want heat. laid sticks across, at a proper distance from the

PREFACE.

IV

expect that every will

meet

its

meed

article,

when produced

at table,

of praise.

Hams, hung meats, cured the more expensive sorts of

tongues, &c., as well as fish, as

smoked and kip-

pered salmon, are often so loaded with hard, tough, and barely eatable;

salt

as to be

and, on the other

hand, are often found in a state of slow decomposition,

unwholesome and

To

disgustful.

obtain perfection in this art,

much more

pends upon the fuel made use of than

is

de-

generally

supposed, and I have herein adapted the different sorts of

wood, &c., to the particular

be

articles to

acted upon.

To

render this manual available to

society,

from the

all

classes of

butteries of the nobility to the

humble cupboard

more

of the tradesman, as also to the

proprietors of Italian warehouses, of hotels, refresh-

ment-rooms, and to fishmongers, pastrycooks, &c. &c., I have laid

down

rules

and

receipts in intelligible

language and arrangement, and I trust that there

is

not a single instance in the whole of these pages,

where any noxious or deleterious ingredients are

commended

to

re-

be used, and by which the stomach

PREFACE.

and system are made

Y

to suffer to please the eye

and

the palate. Instructions for an exceedingly useful and cheap

apparatus for curing and smoking well as the best

method of keeping,

is

appended, as

for a length of

time, every description of goods so cured

and pre-

served.

Amongst will

the marinated fish and buc.aned meats

be found

many

of the most delicious specimens

that a nicely discerning

judgment could

dictate,

and

which are certain of extensive patronage, after having been once partaken I beg to refer

of.

my

readers to the “ Notes” at the

conclusion of this work, as exponents of gross errors

long cherished in the old

common

facts so self-evident as not to

be

practice,

and of

resisted.

J. K., Junior.

.

,

'

.

CONTENTS.

....

Introduction Essences

.

PAGE .

.

.

1

.

.5

DRIED AND SMOKED MEATS. Hung Beef— A

Shropshire Sirloin

Fine Breakfast Bacon

.

.

Melton-Hunt Beef Beef's

Heart Smoked

.

Hams

Breslau Beef

Smoked

.

Whitehaven Corned Beef Neats’ Tongues Dried Neats’ Tongues

A

Boar’s

Head

Chine

Porker’s

Bath Chaps

.

15

.

.

.

21

Bacon

.

.

.

•

•

•

19

.20

.... •

•

17

.IS

.

.

.

Head .

.

•

.

ib.

.14.

•

•

.

.

.

Leicestershire Spiced

Smoked

.

11

.16-

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Hams Westphalia Hams eclipsed Excellent Hams Smoked Westphalia

A Norfolk

.

.

Smoked

.

.

.

.

8

.13

•

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.10

.

.

.

Hambro’ Rough Beef

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Ulverston Red Flank

Beef

.

.

.

6

.7

.

.

•

.

.

ib.

23 ib.

24

CONTENTS.

Vlll

PACK

Dutch Beef

Haunch Thigh

.

.

.

Mutton as Venison Mutton l’Diable

of

of

Welsh Mutton Hams

.

.

.

.

To Pickle a Tongue Hambro’ Pickle Pickle for Pork

.

.

.

Preservative General Pickle

Superior Pickle for Pork and Meats

Mutton

Collared Breast of

A

.

Perpetual Goose

.

.

.

.

ib.

ib.

.33

.

.

.

30

.32

.

.

.

.

.

.

28

.31

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.29

.

.

.

.

.

.

26

.27

.

.

Dried Mutton, as of the Ardennes Forest

.

.

.

.

.25

.

.

.

.

34

FISH.

.... ....

Nutriment in Fish Welsh Dried Salmon

.

Fine Dutch Salmon

.

Very

superior Kippered Salmon Rich Collared Salmon Kippered Mackerel .

May

Fish

.

American Salmon

Superior Bloaters

.

.

#

.

37

.39 .40 43

.45

'

.

.

_

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

•

.

.

.

_

.

.

Aldborough Dried Sprats

.

56

59

Turbot Fins, as Shark’s

.

.

Gorgona Fish Smoked

.

60

_

*62

.

.

. '

Smoked Conger Eels

•,

gg

.

.

Italian Cincerelli

gg to.

.

British Anchovies

River Eels Smoked

52

.53

... .

.

.

Smoked Sprats

48 g0

Superior Spiced Kippered Bloaters

Cape Breton Herrings Aberdeen Reds

46

.47

.

.

Prime Kippered Herrings

Speldings

_

.

.

.36

.

.

.

Superior Pressed Mackerel British

.

.

*

.

*

.

•

g3 O

#

Rr

CONTENTS

IX PAGE

Collared Conger Eels

.

.

Dried Conger Eels, high flavoured

68

,

•

Brown Caviare

•

•

Cavis of Mackerel

69

•

70

*

71

•

72

«

73

•

74

•

•

•

Herring Bich Pickle

•

Herrings Caveach

•

•

White Caviare

Y orkshire

•

•

•

•

Pressed Pork

Birmingham and Oxford Tripe Calf's Head Brawn Portable Soup Richest Portable Soup Smoked Geese Bucaned Beef Kidneys „

Beef Udder

„

Calf’s Liver

Beef Skirts „ Russian Polony

'll). .

75

.

•

•

76

.

•

78

•

ib.

•

•

•

... •

.

.

.

.

•

.

German Saveloys

•

82

•

83

•

87 89

.

Jersey Black Puddings

90

•

Marinated Salmon

.

92

.

.

93

.

96

•

.

97

.

99

.

„

Tench and Carp

„

Shrimps

„

Trout and Grayling

„

Silver Eels

„

Superior Rich Eels

„

Herrings

„

Sprats

„

Cutlets

•

.

•

.

.

‘

•

„

Veal

„

Salmon Roes

•

•

.

Side of Venison Collared

•

•

•

b

.

.

100

.

103

.104 .

125

.

126

.

•

The other side Smoked Young Pig Collared

81

.

•

.

.

79 80

127

.

109

.

Ill

.

112

CONTENTS

X

FAGE

POTTED MEATS AND

t

Ox

Potted

FISH. 84

Cheek

„

Shrimps l’Diable

„

Pigeons

85

•

86

•

„

Smelts

•

105

.

106

„

Lobsters

„

Crabs

„

Hare Moor Game Snipes and Woodcocks

„ ,,

107

.

115

....

„

Trout

„

Eels

„

Shrimps

„

Beef as Hare

„

Neats’ Tongues

„

Beefs Heart

„

Venison

117

.

119 121

•

122

•

124

.

.

101

•

„

Shrimps

„

Anchovies

102

•

127

•

128

•

.

.

129

•

130

ib.

•

Catsup

131

•

.

excellent Fish Sauce

A Provocative

120

•

Tomato Paste

An

118

•

•

.

Lobsters „ Essence of Lobsters

„

116

•

Pickled Smelts

Bengal Chetna

114

•

1

.

French Sausage Spice

•

ib.

132

•

.

•

ib.

.

ib.

.

134

PRESERVED FRUITS. To prepare Syrup for Preserving Fruit Preserved West India Green Ginger, a „

Currants for Tarts

„

Tomatoes

„

Cucumbers

„

Green-gage Plums

.

•

.

close imitation

.

135

.

.

.

.

.

•

•

136 137

.

138

CONTENTS

XI PAGE

Preserved Peaches and Nectarines 37

Lemons

77

Apricots

.

.

37

Damsons

37

Morello Cherries

73

Barberries in Sprigs and Bunches

139

.

140

.

ib.

.

141

•

.

142

.

ib.

•

.

143

.

144

.

.

ib.

.

149

.

150

.

77

Hambro’ Grapes preserved whole

37

Golden Pippins

.

.

37

Raspberry Marmalade

77

Jam

37

Walnuts

77

Apple Marmalade

.

of Morello Cherries

138

.

.

•

.

PICKLES. Pickled

Red Cabbage, Halton

„

Green Samphire

„

Cauliflowers

„

White Mushrooms

„

Silver Onions

„

Red Currants

„

Celery

„

Grapes

„

Codlins

„

Barberries

„

Asparagus

„

Gherkins

„

Piccalilli

„

„

Castle Receipt

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

•

.

.

.

.

.

.

•

.

.

.

•

„ „

Golden Pippins

„

Nasturtiums

„

Red Beet- roots Button Mushrooms

.

.

.

.

.

.

•

.

.

.

.

.

.

•

.

.

•

•

ib.

147

148 151 ib.

152

.154

.

.

Peaches and Nectarines

,,

.

.

.

.

.

.

„

„

.

1

.

Lemon Mangoes Lemon Pickle

.

.

145

146

.

.

.

Mangoes Green Walnuts Walnuts Pickled White

„

.

.

..... ..... ..... ..... .... .... ..... .

.

.

.

.

.

•

.

.

.

ib.

155 156 157 159

160 161 163

164 165 ib.

166 167

.168

CONTENTS.

xii

PAGE Pickled Green Parsley

Walnut Catsup Mushroom Catsup Tomato Catsup

.

169

•

•

•

.

.

171

.

•

.

.

Tarragon Vinegar

.

. Syrup d’Orgeat Paris Curry-powder excellent An

1^3

•

•

.... .

•

.

.

.

.

•

•

.

•

•

.

White-Gooseberry Vinegar

—

.

.

Celery, Crab Salad

Elder-Flower Vinegar

•

•

.

.

.

.

ib. ib.

174 ib.

.175

INTRODUCTION.

— AN APPARATUS FOR DRYING AND SMOKING. I

recommend

years,

this apparatus, having,

employed exactly such an one

many my own

for

in

business.

The Chimney structure, a

should be three brick walls of light

back and two

sides, to

be run up to the

about nine feet from a paved

height of

floor.

It

must be open in front for a yard high from the bottom, and then a wooden door-frame must be put in, to

carry a door five feet high,

doors, each

two feet

six inches,

or, preferably,

one above the other,

the advantage of which will be seen to

make

use of

it.

Above

two

when you come

this door there

must be

brick-work again, for one foot higher, and then the top must be covered over.

The

inside of the

chimney

must be one yard wide, and two feet six inches deep, On each side that is, from the front to the back. there must be fixed a framework of wood, with strips one inch square, nailed across at the distance of six inches apart, these reaching from the bottom of the door-frame and terminating within a foot of the top of the chimney ; on these strips will rest your spits or rods

when laden with

fish.

Six inches from the top^

two or three iron bars, with movable hooks running on them, must be fixed in the brickwork, which will B

INTRODUCTION.

2

be able to sustain

tlie

salmon, &c. &c.

A

weight of sides of bacon, hams, sheet of strong wire-work, or a

plate of sheet-iron, perforated with

many

holes half

an inch in diameter, must be fixed upon the bottom of the door frame.

This will distribute the smoke in

and receive any small fish that may fall from the spits while being smoked. Six inches from the top of the chimney a wooden pipe six inches square must be introduced, to cany the smoke out of the room or shed, and in this must be put a valve or its

ascent,

slide,

which,

when

shut, will increase the

volume of

and when opened will discharge the same thus you will have the force of the fumigation completely under your command. door of light sheet-iron should be hung at the open space at the bottom of the front, and so as to be let down or kept open at your pleasure, by means of which the heat from your fire may be reduced as necessity may require, by letting in the cold air, and this can be let

vapoiu’ in the chimney, ;

A

down

when

partially or totally

it is

desirable to in-

This iron door must not reach

crease the draught.

quite to the floor, but leaving about six inches open, to

keep a small current of

This construction has

air

many

always in the chimney.

advantages over the old-

fashioned close-fronted chimneys.

The

Spits,

or Rods, must be

of

any tough wood,

perfectly round

and a little pointed at one end, half an inch diameter and three feet long. These are for For sprats and other small fish, you oloaters, &c.

,must have spits of pointed

bluntly.

herrings, &e.,

non For

wire, also a yard long, split

mackerel,

you must have deal rods

and

kippered

of inch square

INTRODUCTION.

3

wood, and with wrought-iron sprigs, two inches long, driven through them, and protruding on the other side,

on which the shoulders of the various sorts of

must be fixed. The Horses, on which the rods must drying the fish, must be plainly made by

fish

upright posts, in figure like the

T

inverted, thus

Roman

rest while

two

fixing

capital letter

at the distance of three feet

from

each other, by means of two or three connecting

rails.

The

wood

posts

may

nailed across all

be

six feet long,

them

six inches apart

the different sorts of rods

and

with

will correspond with the

;

when

strips of

on these

will rest

loaded with

wood-work

fish,

inside of your

chimney.

FUEL FOR SMOKING.

Oak

lops, or

such as charcoal it

may be

the extreme branches of is

made from

that tree,

in the country places;

procured in large towns from manufac-

turers of rustic chairs

and garden

seats.

Dried fern

and short grass, the latter being pared off the heaths and short pastimes, very thin, and well dried in the air. Beech and birch chips, or sycamore, are used with all fine goods. Peat or bog-earth must be procured on account of its preservative and deodorising quality imparts a wonderfully mild and truly it acceptable flavour mixed along with other fuel. Oak sawdust must be from the dry, old, heart of ;

oak trees

;

of sour sap. quite dry it

the outside slabs will not do, as being full It

is

needless to say

when taken

will not suit

into

your

your purpose

your chimney.

B 2

to

all

stock,

these should be

and kept

so,

have a damp fume

for in

4

INTRODUCTION.

PRESERVATIVES. All the manufactured white edible bitter taste to

meats and

salts

impart a

cured by them, particu-

fish

same are to be kept many months. This is the reason why bay salt is so much used in part, along with the common salt, and if bay salt was less expensive, it would be universally used, and alone. I larly if the

cannot recommend too strongly the use of the rock Cheshire mines

salt of the

;

it

acts similarly to the

bay

by no means expensive. Foots of Sugar can be got from the wholesale grocers, and is much preferable to the common sorts salt,

and

is

and is not so gives. There is a

It is nearly double the strength,

sold.

rank and mawkish in the flavour quantity of

it

at the

it

bottom of every cask of the West

when first opened. It is preferable to many respects. To store your goods when

India sugar treacle in

cured, and to keep preservation, there

them is

in the best possible state of

nothing so well adapted, and

proved by experience to be

effectual, as

malt cooms,

which should be contained in chests and boxes, with little bags of pulverised charcoal here and there distributed

throughout.

smoked meats, ceilings of fires in

for

all

from the habitable rooms with

&c., in paper or calico bags,

kitchens,

them,

Hanging up hams, tongues,

is

an

and

old,

all

but very thoughtless, custom,

the foul air in an used room

near the ceiling.

is

accumulated

ON THE CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OK

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, & FRUITS.

ESSENCES.

The

following are

made use of

in the preparation of

made

the finer sort of meats, and are thus

Essence of Cinnamon. essential oil to half

—Half

an ounce of

:

an ounce of

the

spirits.

Essence of Clove, Cassia, Nutmeg, and Allspice.

One ounce

of

any of the

oils

to

half

a pint of

spirits.

Essence of Peppermint, Rose, and Almonds.

—

quarter of an ounce of otto of roses, of essential of peppermint, or

of

almonds,

to

half

a pint

oil

of

spirits.

Essence of

Lemon and

Orange.

—Three-quarters

6

CURING, SMOKING,

AND PRESERVATION OF

of an ounce of the essential

to half a pint of

oils

spirits.

Essence of Thyme, Celery,

Half a pint of

and Mint.

Sage,

an ounce of any of

rectified spirits to

these substances.

Essence of Vanilla.

—Half a

pint of spirits to half

an ounce of vanilla pods. Essence of Ginger.

—Bruised ginger, eight ounces;

quarter of an ounce

chillies,

digest for a

;

month and

strain.

Essence of Cayenne Pepper. water, half an ounce

;

—

ounces

;

Cayenne pepper, two ounces

;

Spirits, six

red sanders, in powder, half an ounce

digest for ten

;

days and strain.

Concentrated Essence of Ginger. ginger,

ounces

bruised, ;

one ounce

HUNG BEEF From

rectified

;

and

digest ten days,

— Unbleached spirits,

strain.

—A SHROPSHIRE SIRLOIN.

the sirloin of a grass-fed young

prime heifer, the butcher should take fluous suet of the

under

handsome, and when weather, rub

it

two

it

off

hung up

a

1 lb.

Juniper

berries, bruised

.

1 oz.

Shalots,

minced

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

Black pepper, ground

the joint

week

well in every part with

Coarse sugar

or

the super-

side, so as to leave

has

Scot,

in cold

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

Turn the meat and continue the rubbing when you may add

Rock or common salt Bay salt, pounded .

three days,

.

.

1^

.

.

1 lb.

Treacle

be sufficient to turn

it

it

lb.

1 lb.

when

Persist in this course four days longer,

baste

7

it

will

only every second day, and

it

When

with the liquor ten minutes each time.

has thus laid fourteen days more,

it

may

be taken

up, wiped dry, and suspended in a quick current of air,

and bound round with broad

tape, so that

be turned upside down occasionally, juices settling in one part.

rub coarse oatmeal or bran, the joint, and

hang

it

in

When first

to

it

may

prevent the

dried sufficiently,

well heated,

your chimney

to

all

over

be smoked,

three days only, with

Beech chips

....

Peat

Oak

2 parts 2 parts

sawdust

....

2 parts

impart scarcely any flavour of the smoke u Hung Beef/’ for observe, it is

which

will

CHOICE BREAKEAST BACON.

Take a

u middle” of dairy-fed pork side or

from a

pig not exceeding eight score pounds weight, and

mixing well

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

8

Bay

or rock salt,

pounded

1 ^ lb.

Coarse sugar Shalots,

1 lb.

minced

Saltpetre, in

.

.

.

powder

.

Sal prunelle, in powder

Bay

Rub it

.

1 oz.

.

1 oz.

.

1 oz.

2 oz.

leaves

both sides of the meat well for a week, turning

every other day, then add

common

salt

and

treacle,

each one pound, and rub again daily for a week after

which baste and turn only, for a week longer,

then take all

it

up, dry with coarse cloths, rub

well

it

over with peas meal and bran mixed, equal quan-

tities,

and hang

Oak

it

to

be smoked with

lops or sawdust

.

2 parts

.

Dried fern

2 parts

Peat or bog-earth.

Commit

for three weeks. chest, to

it

.

to

2 parts

.

ham and

your

bacon

be kept three months or longer, well em-

bedded in malt coom and pulverised charcoal.

It will

never be rancid.

MELTON-HUNT BEEF. Choose a round of prime ox beef, about thirty pounds weight, the butcher removing the bone

amine the

and hang

flap it

up

and take out the kernels and in a dry ah,

where

long as the weather will permit.

let it

Then

'

•

;

ex-

skins,

remain as

take

MEATS,

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

FISII,

Juniper

berries, bruised

.

2 oz.

.

.

2 oz.

Black pepper, ground

.

.

3 oz.

Dried bay leaves

.

.

3 oz.

Ten

minced

shalots,

Allspice,

ground

.

.

.

.

Coarse sugar

2

lb.

Bay

2

lb.

Mix them

salt

and rub

well,

parts well, particularly

all

the flap and the void left for a week,

9

and turning

by the bone, every day every other day.

it

Then

add

Rock

common

salt or

1 lb.

salt

Saltpetre Garlic,

1^

....

minced

oz.

2 heads

and never omit rubbing well with the pickle every day for ten days.

After

days more, then take

and

fat,

and

and bind

it

setting

it

diately wanted, coat pollard,

and smoke

up

it

it

a

it

daily for ten

up, look well to the centre

it

in proper shape,

Wipe

firmly.

this turn

it

diy,

ahd

well over with

and skewer

if

not imme-

dry bran or

week with

Beech chips

3 parts

Oak

1 part

Fem

lops

or grass turfs

Otherwise, bake hours, not less,

commendation.

it

it,

and when

will cut firm

.

it

.

2 parts

has cooled forty-eight

and obtain for you high

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

10

HEART SMOKED.

BEEF’S

From

choice, take the heart of a

fed heifer, and hang

week, but

if it

in doubt

as to

derness,

not

it

prime Scot or well-

in a current of dry air for a

should be a fine large one, and you are

age and probability as to ten-

its

ten days

or

more

be too long to keep

in hard weather

Clean

it.

it

will

from

well

the coagulated blood in the cavities, ventricles, and

wipe the outside with

and water and sponge.

salt

Then take

Bay

or rock salt

Coarse sugar Sal prunelle

W

.

.

.

.... ....

.

6 oz.

.

6 oz.

.

\

oz.

.

%

oz.

\

oz.

ater

Bay

leaves,

powdered

.

Laurel leaves, shred

.

Put

Boil these a quarter of an hour, skimming well.

the meat, the small end downwards, in a deep straightsided vessel, that will just

add

to

it

six large

some sweet lard

;

more than contain

also

.

.

Black pepper, ground

and pom’ the

and

onions sliced and fried brown, with

Powdered sage Fine

it,

.

1 oz.

.

.

j>

oz.

2 oz.

salt

liquor,

.

nearly scalding hot, upon

these, covering close with

brown paper

tied

all

over;

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. thus

let it

sized one, it

remain forty-eight hours,

and

11

if

a moderate

sixty hours if a large one.

Next take

out and wipe dry, and

all

fill

the hollows, of which

there are four, with the following stuffing

Fried onions

Bay

1 lb.

salt, fine

powder

Allspice, fine

powder

White pepper, Olive

oil

fine

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

1 oz.

powder

...

.

\

3 oz.

.

.

oz.

And

having pressed this into all parts accessible, make the u deaf ears” secure, that the stuffing does not come out, by sewing thin leather or bladder over the base of the heart, and

hang

it

wards, in your chimney, and smoke

When

boiled

and got cold properly,

up, point downit

it

three weeks.

will

relishing article at a trifling expense.

be a nice

Beech

chips,

with oak dust and fern, or short grass, will be the proper fuel.

ULVERSTON RED FLANK OF BEEF. For

this

purpose engage about twelve pounds of

prime young meat, and

become tender. it

into pieces

let

it

hang the

Trim away the

full

time to

skin neatly, and cut

adapted to the family requirements.

Set the trimmings, with a pound of any rough beef, and a similar weight of lean gammon of bacon, on the fire

with

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

12

Allspice, crushed.

Juniper

berries,

.

.

crushed

Black pepper, crushed Eight

Bay

shalots,

.

.

1 oz.

.

1 oz.

.

1 oz.

minced 1 lb.

salt

Common

salt or

rock

.

f

.

Water and

boil

totally

5 pints

twenty minutes, skimming well

and pour

liquor

lb.

strain the

;

hot over the meat, which must be

it

In a week

immersed.

up the

boil

pickle,

adding 2 oz.

Saltpetre

Bay

leaves, dry

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

Cochineal

^

Cover the meat again, and

more hang

;

then take

it

up

both sides

in

it

up, dry

well with cloths, and

a quick current of

w ith warmed T

remain ten days

let it it

and

rub

ah’,

bran, and

capable of retaining any more, coat tine

oz.

it

when it

it

w ell on r

is

not

with the gela-

treacle composition so effectually as to totally

exclude the

ah’.

In three months, meat thus pre-

served will be juicy and mellow, and presenting a striking contrast with the dry

of the general table,

common

and tough preparations

practice.

When

wanted for

plunge a piece of the meat into a pan of boiling

water, and keep

it

so boiling for ten

minutes or a

quarter of an hour, after which draw the utensil a little off is

the

completed.

fire,

and simmer

only, until the cooking

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

13

BEEF HAMS. Your butcher will furnish you with a joint of a prime young beef, cut handsomely, and shaped for

Hang it

the purpose. well in

as long as prudent, then rub

parts with coarse sugar,

all

and turn

it

it

every

second day for six days, then mix well,

Bay

1 lb.

salt

Common

or rock salt

.

.

1 lb.

Foots of coarse sugar

.

.

1 lb.

Saltpetre

1 oz.

Old

1 quart

stale ale

These are allowed for each ten pounds of meat.

Let

the rubbing in of this mixture be sedulously observed for three weeks,

and then only the turning every

second day, two weeks longer, the pickle having been

up again and well skimmed, adding twenty

boiled

per cent, of the ingredients to replenish the strength.

Now

take up and dry your meat, and give

it

a nice

firm covering of oatmeal and bran mixed and warmed;

hang

in the fresh air a

it

so that all the

Smoke

it

a

juices

it

in

may

month with oak

short grass turfs,

Store

week, changing

its

position,

not be at one end of lops

it.

and sawdust, fern or

and plenty of beech and birch

malt cooms and charcoal, and

let it

chips.

not be

molested for four months.

HAMBRO’ ROUGH BEEF. Take ten

or

twelve pounds of any part of the

animal that has not

much

fat or skin,

and no bone

14

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF rub

attached;

well over with a

it

made moderately make a pickle of

India molasses, four days

;

Bay

and

hot,

or rock salt

.

let it lie so

1 oz.

....

minced

Juniper

berries, bruised

1

oz.

2

1 oz.

.

Water

2 quarts

skimmed

clear,

and added

to the meat,

which must be quite covered, and remain

Now

weeks more. pea

flour,

West

1 lb.

.

Saltpetre Garlic,

of

1 lb.

salt

Common

boiled and

pound

dry

it

well, give

it

so three

a good coat of

and covering with brown paper, smoke

it

a

month with

Oak

sawdust

....

5 parts

...

Peat or bog earth

1 part

BRESLAU BEEF. Take

the second round or

or bone, cut

it

into

fillet

of beef without fat

two equal parts horizontally, and

rub them well with the following mixture

Black pepper, groirnd

minced

Garlic,

Juniper

.

Foots of suo;ar O lie,

salt .

.

.

1 oz.

.

4

.

2 oz.

.

1 lb.

.

.

1 lb.

.

.

1 lb.

.

berries, bruised

Bay salt Rock or common Let them

.

:

oz.

being regularly rubbed and turned for

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. fourteen

Boil up

days.

your

15

skimming

pickle,

it

thoroughly at the expiration of each week, and add, at the

end of the fortnight, Allspice, bruised

.

.

.

2 oz.

.

Saltpetre

2

Strong vinegar

Let them

1 pint

thus a week together, then take them

lie

up and wipe

....

oz.

Smoke one

dry.

of the pieces for three

weeks, in brown paper, with oak and fern, and hang it

of

in a

dry

air to

the meat

current, tion,

harden a month.

may be

The

other portion

thoroughly dried in an

air

and then coated with the gelatine composi-

and exposed

Both these

to the air a

month

also.

are intended for rubbing on a tin grater,

and taken on bread and

butter, or as sandwiches,

and

well adapted for gentlemen emigrating and travelling at

home.

WHITEHAVEN CORNED BEEF. For a round weight.

Bub

it

of

beef

about twenty-five pounds

in all parts with

Coarse sugar Allspice,

ground

Nutmeg, grated Sal prunelle

and

let it lie,

Then add

1 lb. .

.

.

.

3

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

oz.

1 oz.

turned and rubbed daily, for a week.

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

16

Rock

boiled

common

2

lb.

Saltpetre

i

lb.

Vinegar

1 pint

Water

1 pint

or

salt

.

.

twenty minutes, skimmed and

let

go

cold.

Baste the meat twice a day, and turned every second

Now

day for three weeks longer. dry,

sew a broad

meat

tightly,

in

fillet

take up and wipe

of light canvas around the

and suspend

it

to

be dried very gradually

your chimney, with beech and birch embers.

may hang flame,

It

thus for three weeks, never allowing a

and should be turned occasionally. NEATS’ TONGUES.

F or

each tongue of seven to nine pounds weight,

having cut out the gullet and trimmed the

Bay

salt

1 oz.

Coarse sugar

3 oz.

Saltpetre,

pounded

Cochineal, pounded

Mix

well,

root, take

.

.

.

.

.

.

oz.

|

oz.

and rub the meat well for four days, then

add for each tongue one ounce more

salt

and continue

The curing table, may be

the rubbing and turning six days longer. is

now

completed, and

if

wanted for

boiled slowly four to five hours.

dress

them

it is

intended to

fresh out of pickle as wanted, the rubbing,

except for the case,

If

first

day,

must be omitted, and

they would not be unpleasantly

salt for

in

such

four or

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. five

weeks

nevertheless, they should be turned daily.

;

wipe them well when taken

If they are only to be dried,

out of the pickle, and rub lard

warmed, but

if to

them all over with bran

be smoked

,

2 parts

Dried fern

Oak hams

2 parts

....

sawdust

2 parts

and they may be packed along with your

in malt

cooms and pulverised charcoal.

NEATS’ TONGUES,

Having cut away removed the

VERY HIGH FLAVOUR.

the useless parts at the roots, and

rub the tongues

gullets,

coarse sugar or real lie

or pol-

must be done with

it

....

Beech chips

for a week,

17

West India

twenty-foui' hours

molasses,

.

.

and

let

them

Sal prunelle

.

.

1 oz.

.

•

2 oz.

i

Black pepper, ground

....

1 •

Treacle

.

it

over with

then take

;

Juniper berries

mix, and rub with

all

o

oz.

1 lb.

three days, turning

them

daily

then add

Bay

9 oz.

salt

Common

or rock salt

.

.

12

oz.

rub three days, and turn the meat daily for a week,

when you may diy it and smoke with beech and fern or grass turfs. The above proportions are for one fine

tongue of eight or nine pounds. C

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

18

A BOAR’S HEAD. Procure the head of a large well-fed bacon hog,

your butcher having had

it

open and taken out the

tongue, gullet, eyes, and nasal cartilages, and small

bones; remove the brain and clean

it

thoroughly,

particularly at the roots of the ears and nostrils it

quickly in salt and water,

Rub

it

well in

and hang

make a

all

up

it

and dry with

wash

cloths.

common

parts with rock or

to drain twenty-four hours.

salt,

Next,

pickle of Garlic, chopped

.

.

.

Shalots

|

oz.

1 oz.

Juniper berries

.

.

.

.

2

Jamaica pepper

.

.

.

.

2 oz.

oz.

Sal prunelle

3 oz.

Water Bay salt

1 gal.

2

Treacle

2 lb.

Boil fifteen minutes, and skim, and it

;

lb.

when

cold pour

over the head and tongue, placed in a deep straight-

where

sided earthen vessel,

it

must remain, being

turned every second day, and well covered with the pickle for a

month

;

at

the end of fourteen

days

take out the tongue, boil up the pickle, adding one

pound more cold.

When

and tongue

salt,

and pour

it

again on the head

taken out of pickle, wipe both the head

dry,

and with a sharp knife cut through

the rind from the nose to the base, in lines two inches

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. apart, but not

severing the

remove any superfluous

fat

You may now

flesh.

from the

interfering with the lean part; rub

all

base, but not

over with dried

oatmeal; peel the tongue, and skewer,

brown paper

inside the it

in

let it

be

for three weeks, with

Oak

it

it

the sides with string, and smoke

head, close

Store

19

sawdust’

....

2 parts

Beech and birch chips

.

3 parts

F ern

.

1 part

or grass turfs

in malt cooms,

.

and when wanted

baked.

WESTPHALIA HAMS. Get your weight

legs of pork

— cut

— each

about sixteen pounds

in shape like those imported, viz. longer

and more narrow than usual, inclining

to a

peak

at

the large end, and flattened between boards weighted

down upon them. But since they may be cured at home far finer flavoured, and of infinitely far superior quality in the feeding, this attempt at deception optional.

which

let

The

following

is

a good mixture,

is

with

the meat be rubbed well, and turned daily

for three days

:

Saltpetre

1 oz.

Sal prunelle

1 oz.

Coarse sugar

1 oz.

Bay

1 oz.

salt

Juniper berries, bruised C 2

.

2 oz.

20

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

Then

let

them

lie

in this way, only turning

when you

ten clays more,

up the

will boil

them

for

ingredients,

adding Best pickling vinegar

.

1 pint

.

Water

1 pint

and when cold turn

it

a fortnight longer.

You may now

to flie meat,

and baste with

it

them up and

take

dry them well. They must hang in a current of fresh air for

a week or more, and then be smoked a month

with oak lops, fem, and grass turfs.

WESTPHALIA HAMS ECLIPSED. Take

about sixteen

thick leg of pork, of

a fine

pounds weight, and mix Saltpetre, finely beaten

.

1^- oz.

Coarse sugar

.

10

.

.

Bock or common salt Bay salt, beaten fine with which rub the meat in turning

it

for four days.

all

.

.

.

.

4

oz.

oz.

5 oz.

parts once a day,

and

Bring a pint of pickling

vinegar to the boiling point, with one ounce of sliced shalot in

it,

and when cold add

must be turned pickle,

hang

ham end

for

it

daily for a

month then take ;

it

which out of

to drip twenty-four hours, turn the

end twice a week

month with oak

to the meat,

it

lops, fern,

at least,

smoke

beech chips, and

turfs.

it

a

MEATS,

FISII,

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

21

EXCELLENT HAMS OF HIGH FLAVOUR.

Hang

a

leg

of

well-fecl

weighing about

pork,

eighteen pounds, as long as the weather will permit

take

Coarse sugar

1 lb.

Sal prunelle

2 oz.

Juniper

berries, bruised

Black pepper, bruised

Bay

Rub

this

let it lie,

all

.

2 oz.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

2

lb.

and

parts of the meat,

being rubbed and turned twice in three days ;

then add rock

common

then

.

.

mixture well into

and nights it,

bruised

salt,

.

month, turning

it

salt

salt,

or if

you cannot get

two pounds, and

every other day.

let it

Then wipe

lie

it

dry,

and put a nice clear covering of bran or pollard over the joint, and smoke

it

a month, turning

and then in the chimney while the juices are

The

fuel

must be oak

lops, sawdust,

it

a

all

now

settling.

and beech

chips.

If you have no store chest with malt, corn, &c., you

must have your resource case.

Do

not

let

from the ceiling do,

and

;

in a paper bag, as

is

often the

your meats hang near a kitchen they will inevitably be rancid

to avoid the flies in

summer

meats over once a fortnight with

if

fire

you

time, brush your

three

drops of

creosote in a pint of water.

A NORFOLK CHINE. Take the chine

of

a well-fed hog of ten score

22

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

weight, deprived of the rind, and what fat

considered superfluous, and rub

it

may be

in all parts effec-

tually with'

West India Bay salt Laurel

Bay and

let

Next

it

molasses

.

1 lb.

.

1 lb.

leaves, shred

.

1 oz.

.

leaves

1 oz.

be rubbed and turned daily for a week. used above, and

boil together the herbs

Marjoram

....

Thyme Juniper

berries,

crashed

Bock or common Water

salt

.

a handful. .

a handful.

.

1 oz.

.

1 lb.

3 quarts

.

Skim it well, and when cold, pour it to the meat, and mix with the first pickle. Take care that the pickle Handle

completely covers the chine. three weeks,

and wipe

coated with bran

first,

it

dry.

It

attentively

it

must be well

and pea-flour over

that,

and

smoked with

Oak

2 parts

lops

Dried fern

2 parts

Beech or birch chips

2 parts

for a fortnight or more.

ceedingly good, tion,

if

One

half of

it

will

be ex-

coated with the gelatine composi-

and kept three months

baked, and eaten cold.

;

the other half

may be

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

23

LEICESTERSHIRE SPICED BACON.

Many

persons are prejudiced against spiced bacon,

because they

generally

may have been

deceived in

the quality of that purchased at the shops

;

indeed

is

may

defects

which would have been too glaring

salted.

(See Note, No.

the spicing resorted to that

large pork,

and divide

it

Take a middle

if

cover

merely

of well-fed

into pieces that will suit

rub them well over, both

salting tub;

warmed

3.)

it

too often

sides,

your with

them lie for a week, beingrubbed and turned every day then take a mixture of treacle,

and

let

;

Bay

salt,

beaten fine

Saltpetre, beaten fine

Allspice,

ground

Black pepper

.

.

3

lb.

.

.

£

lb.

.

.

.

2 oz.

.

.

.

1 oz.

and rub the meat well with only, for a week, after

.

this

on the fleshy

side

which turn the pieces every

You may

then

other

day for a fortnight longer.

dry

it

with cloths, and suspend the meat in a current

ail-,

being turned end for end every third day

of

and when ready, lay on a nice coat of bran or and smoke with oak and beech for a finish

week

it

by adding peat

longer.

to

pollard,

fortnight,

and

your smoking fuel for a

This will be superior bacon.

SMOKED PORKER’S HEAD. Take

the head of a dairy-fed porker, seven score

weight, lay

it

open, take out the tongue, gullet, eyes,

24

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

&c., it

and wash

well

and

and water.

salt

remain in a deep dish forty-eight hours, the

tongue

may be

pickle

by boiling

Bay

cured as a neat’s tongue.

powdered

leaves,

.

.

Saltpetre

Bay

salt or

Allspice,

rock

salt

ground

.

.

.

it

oz.

f

oz.

a

2

.

oz.

1 quart

and when

well,

i

Make

1 lb.

.

Water Skim

Rub

over with coarse sugar and sliced onions,

all

let it

minutes in

five

it

cold,

pour

it

a deep straight-sided earthen vessel

;

over the head in so let

it lie

three

weeks, being turned and basted with the pickle every

Take

other day.

tongue

in,

and

it

stuff all the cavities

onions fried in olive

powdered

;

and smoke

up now, wipe

oil

it

dry, place the

with a stuffing of

or sweet lard, and dried sage

bind the cheeks close together with tape, it

three weeks with beech chips two parts,

fern two parts, peat one part, oak sawdust one part. It

must be kept

&c., and in two

and taken

in

same packing

months

it

will

as

hams, tongues,

be excellent, baked

cold.

BATH CHAPS, OR CHEEKS. Chose your cheeks from pigs not more than eight score weight. offal,

allow

Split open, carefully take out all the

and for every stone of fourteen pounds of meat,

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. Saltpetre

1 oz.

Coarse sugar

1 lb.

Bay

salt or

....

rock

1 lb.

Pepper

Rub

tlie

25

1 oz.

cheeks thoroughly and daily for a week;

then turn them in the

when you may

-pickle for a fortnight

more,

take them up, dry and wipe, and coat

them nicely with warmed

coarse oatmeal, and

them

Smoke them

to dry for a week.

hang

a month, or

only dry them in your chimney by a gentle heat.

Oak and

grass turfs

must be the

fuel

made use

of.

DUTCH BEEF. Take ten pounds

of

any part of prime beef that has

a moderate share of fat attached, the thick flanks

Displace the skin, and rub the meat

suit well.

over with foots of coarse sugar one pound, and lie

1 lb.

salt

Common

salt

.

.

.

1 lb.

.

Sal prunelle Garlic,

minced

Juniper

let it

Take then

three days and nights, turned daily.

Bay

all

berries,

1 oz. .

.

1 oz.

crushed

.

1 oz.

.

.

Vinegar

\ pint

with which mixture rub your meat well five days, and then turn

it

night more.

in the pickle every three days for a fort-

Bind broad tape around

rub pea-flour over

it

in all parts, until

it

as a collar,

it is

thoroughly

2G

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

coated therewith, and smoke

it

month with oak lops,

a

sawdust, and beech or birch chips. in store

two months

ing water over the

when

at least,

It should

and then put

into boil-

done moderately, and cut

fire,

cold.

HAUNCH OF MUTTON Get your butdher

AS VENISON.

to leave the tail attached to a leg

of fine fat wether mutton,

which you may hang

long as ever the weather will permit.

remove the outer

as

Carefully

and rub half a pint of pure

skin,

olive oil well into all parts of

Put

be kept

lying in a deep dish.

it,

into a jug

Three large heads of

Bay

salt,

garlic, sliced

a teaspoonful

Allspice, bruised, \ oz.

Six dried bay leaves

Or

nine green ones

Seven or eight

sprigs parsley

Seven or eight

sprigs

thyme

White peppercorns, i Pour a pint

of good vinegar, nearly boiling, over these,

cover the jug close, and

Then add

oz.

let

remain

this pickle to the meat,

till

next day.

and rub

it

well in

for half an hour, not disturbing the fat if possible; slice

six

large onions,

the meat, turn

it

and strew them equally over

every day twice, and keep always the

onions well on the uppermost part.

Continue

this for

MEATS, FISH, GAME, FOULTRY, ETC. then take

five days,

half an hour with a

made

up, wipe

it

it

and

clean,

Serve with red-currant

venison.

and rub

pound of West India

Next day wipe

hot.

dry,

it

27 it

for

molasses,

roast

it

as

jelly liquefied.

THIGH OF MUTTON L’DIABLE. Take

a short thick leg of prime mutton, that has

been well kept, and rub

bay

it

well in all parts with

an hour, then immerse

salt for half

water for a minute, and wipe

pounded

it

in cold

quite dry.

it

Mix

well

Table

salt, 1

large tablespoonful

Black pepper, ground, 1 teaspoonful

Cayenne pepper, I oz. One clove garlic, minced Treacle, ^

Rub

lb.

the joint freely with this until

it

has disappeared.

Divide the flesh down to the bone for three inches

above the knuckle, and lay in three

head of garlic minced very neatlv over day,

and

Set aside on a dish until the next

it.

it

again with what liquor

and put

it

down

Smear

spoonful of

six

to roast before a brisk clear

when

on the prongs of a long

the meat

hold the bacon over the transfer

it

fire until

may have

ounces of sound fat bacon with a

tar, stick it

ing fork, and

and half a

close the skin

when rub

arisen, fire.

fine,

shalots,

fire

is

about half cooked,

until

over the meat, and baste

the bacon has melted

all

toast-

it

it

blazes,

then

with the liquid

away.

The mutton

28

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

when cooked

will

have a peculiar appearance, and a

by many persons.

flavour 'highly esteemed

To

be

served hot with a spoonful or two of tomato, or any other favourite sauce.

WELSH MUTTON HAMS. Take a couple of legs of prime Welsh mutton, rub them well with treacle made hot, and put them away in a deep

pan

Make

until the next day.

a pickle of

Thyme

1

handful

Marjoram

1

handful

Bay

1

handful

1

handful

leaves

Laurel leaves

....

Saltpetre

1 oz.

Black pepper

.

...

Bay salt Water

2

oz.

2

lb.

5 pints

boiled an hour and well skimmed, and

when

cold to

be poured over the meat, and to be rubbed every day,

and turned pickle,

for three weeks.

rub them well in

for one hour,

up

all

Then

take them out of

parts with strong vinegar

when wipe them

dry,

and hang them

Then

give

coat of bran or of oatmeal,

and

in a current of air until well dry.

them a thorough smoke them with

Oak sawdust

....

2 parts

Peat

1 part

Beech

2 parts

Turfs or fern

....

1 part

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. for three

weeks or more.

Store

and pulverised charcoal, and

them

29

in malt

cooms

months they

in three

will

be very good.

DRIED MUTTON, AS IN THE ARDENNES. Dried garden thyme .

.

.

1 oz.

Dried bay leaves

.

.

.

1 oz.

berries, bruised

Take a

and

oil,

part of the

it

well in

oil

three

digest

weeks.

air three

days more,

Coarse

Bay

with the herbs and

all parts,

;

then hang

when add

up

it

in a cold dry

1 lb.

salt

.

.

.

.

1 lb.

Coarse sugar

.

.

.

.

1 lb.

Black pepper

.

.

.

...

1 oz.

....

2 oz.

the joint then with the whole mixture, and if

a leg, for fourteen days

turning

it

every day.

parts with

in a

to the herbs

....

salt

Saltpetre

it

be turned and rubbed every

to

;

day for three weeks

all

them

prepared as above, and lay

vessel covered close

;

let

leg or loin of prime mutton fresh from the

butcher, rub

lie

2 oz.

these into a stone jar with a pint of fresh ren-

dered goose

Rub

1 oz.

Dried marjoram

Juniper

Put

.

Take

warmed bran

it

;

if

out,

let it

a loin, nine days,

wipe

it

dry and rub

or pollard, and suspend

again in a dry air previous to enclosing

it

it

in a paper

**

30

CUEING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

or calico

bag for a month, then pack

and charcoal.

in

it

malt cooms

we cannot

If preferred smoked,

pro-

vide you with juniper bushes for that purpose, and

with which the “ Ardennes ” abounds, we must therefore substitute

Oak

lops

1 part

....

Beech chips

2 parts

Fern

2 parts

Peat

1 part

TO PICKLE A TONGUE.

Take out the

and rough root of a

gullet

tongue, eight pounds weight; rub

mon

Saltpetre in

well with

this,

to the first brine,

turning

it

process,

if to

powder

.

and keep

it

.

^

lb.

^

oz. all

close covered three weeks,

It will

be

fit

be smoked, treat

and when ready, smoke

Oak

is

....

out of the pickle, then return

every day.

wanted, but

This

well with com-

it

or rock salt three days, then take

Foots of sugar

Rub

neat’s

it

lops

it

to

be cooked

if

with the drying

with 2 parts

Fern

2 parts

Peat

2 parts

intended for tongues for general purposes.

There follow some excellent pickles

for higher flavours.

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

31

HAMBRO’ PICKLE FOR BEEF AND PORK.

Rock

3

salt

Saltpetre

1^

Sal prunelle

.

.

.

Black pepper

.

.

.

.

Foots of sugar

.

.

.

.

f 2

.

oz. lb.

2 gall.

Boil fifteen minutes, skimming well

and the next

clay it will

be

fit

;

pour into a

for use.

appropriate for beef, hams, and tongues use,

oz.

oz.

If

Water

vessel,

lb.

This

—for

family

A

and refreshment rooms, &c. &c.

hotels,

is

moderate-sized round of beef should remain

in

it

fourteen to sixteen days. I

-

PICKLE FOR PORK.

EXCELLENT FOR A QUARTER OF A YEAR. For a whole porker weighing not exceeding score pounds. at hand,

The

five

pieces adapted for pickling being

put a layer of finely beaten rock

the

salt at

bottom of your powdering tub, which must always be particularly clean

and sweet, and better

with sulphur the day before

if

fumigated

used, then place the

it is

thickest of the meat, then a layer of this mixture

Rock

salt

Coarse sugar Saltpetre

.

Sal prunelle

2

lb.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

1 lb.

•

•

•

•

io

.

lb KJ •

:

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

32

then again meat, and alternately to the filling all the

week,

if

spaces with

cold,

pour

meat, and leave a fortnight if

or rock salt.

and In a

a pickle does not rise up so as totally to cover

much

the pork, boil as

when

common

finish,

if

it

of similar ingredients, and,

gradually and evenly over the

You

it.

wanted

can take thin pieces out in

in haste, but

not disturbed for a month.

it

will be preferable

The water

requisite for

the second brine depends upon what brine was pro-

duced by the

first salting.

PRESERVATIVE PICKLE. This

is

proper for cured meats in general, and

recommended

is

imparting a mild and excellent

for

flavour.

Rock

Bay

or

common

salt

1 lb.

.

.

salt

1 lb.

Coarse sugar

1 lb.

Saltpetre

^

Water

1 gall.

lb.

SUPERIOR PICKLE FOR PORK.

Rock

common

3

lb.

3

lb.

Saltpetre

£

lb.

Loaf sugar

2

lb.

Bay

salt or

salt

River or rain water Boil

salt

and skim

well.

Apply

pork will be ready in a week.

.

.

cold.

3 nail.

Small delicate

MEATS, FISH, GAME, FOULTRY, ETC.

33

BREAST OF MUTTON COLLAR, AS VENISON.

Hang you can

the largest breast of well-fed wether mutton get, as

long as the weather will warrant you.

Take away the outer

coarse sugar plentifully

put a

all

over the inside

or piece of board that

slate

beech, or sycamore, or poplar weights, and let

it

and strew

skin, all the bones,

remain

is

—upon

tasteless

it,

and

flesh,

—

as

with heavy

Be

so forty-eight hours.

provided with

Garden thyme, Marjoram,

in

in

powder

powder

Eschalots, minced

Nutmeg, grated

Bay

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

1 tablespoonful

4 tablespoonfuls ^

oz.

1 lb.

salt

White pepper, ground Old

1 tablespoonful

.

1 oz.

1 pint

ale

Boil these altogether for twenty minutes. sides of the it,

meat

along with

its

for at least

Rub

[both

twenty minutes, and lay

sugar or pickle, in a deep vessel, and

keep up the friction for a week or nine days; then take

it

up, dry

it

with cloths, and making a layer of

bay leaves and laurel

upon

herbs you it

1

dry tub, put the ? breast

and cover the meat with other leaves of

it,

similar sort,

wash

in a

and with thyme, parsley, and any sweet

may have

near at hand.

Now

for five minutes in vinegar

D

and

take

it

up,

table-beer,

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

-34

half-and-half, and

hang

hours, then roll

up

hang

it

in

enter into

it

it

np

dry for twenty-four

to

and hind

as a collar,

your chimney, but do not as

it,

The embers

let

it

tight;

much smoke

must be dried rather than smoked.

it

of beech chips, grass turfs,

will effect this in

The

a week.

and sawdust,

half of

may

it

be

and the other part kept with your hams,

roasted,

tongues, &c., for six months;

be mellow

will then

it

and beautifully flavoured.

A PERPETUAL GOOSE.

— the

Procure the heart of a prime ox better is

—hang and

safe,

drawn goose

it

up

in a current of

at the oil,

dry

larger the

air as

long as

it

same time get a pint of newly-

which put

into a jar along with

Six or eight eschalots, minced Onions, sliced

Dried sage, powdered

Bay

.

1 lb.

.

1 oz.

.

.

salt

Saltpetre

Tie brown paper over, and heat until your meat

you

lb.

^

oz.

remain in a gentle First cut out

ready.

—blood

vessel

away the “ deaf

ears,”

the heart, the pipe can, pare

is

let it

^

.

—

as

from

low down as you

and open

consistently can, without piercing

as

tlie

wide as bark or

outside skin, a communication between the two upper cavities

—

auricles,

and the two lower ones

and take out the coagulated blood.

—

ventricles,

Next rub

all

MEATS,

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

FISII,

and

parts, tlie inside

35

outside, thoroughly twice a

day

with the oily mixture for a week, having put the meat, point downwards, in a vessel,

straight-sided deep earthen

and keeping the

Now

with the liquor.

Bay

cavities all the while filled

boil for fifteen minutes.

leaves, shred

Green

Bay

laurel, shred

salt,

pounded

.

lib. 1 pint

Porter

.

1 pint

.

1 lb.

the jar, mixing is

.

1 oz.

.

well and add

it

.

.

Vinegar

Coarse sugar

Skim

1 oz.

.

.

all

.

.

.

when half-cold to the meat in together. Mind that the meat

it

well

completely covered with the pickle, and

over

all,

pickle,

so let

be for a week, when

it

skimming

well,

it

what may have been kept well

filled

all

boil

and taking care

lost or

tie

up

paper all

the

renew

to

imbibed, and the cavities

the time

;

be in pickle a

let it

fortnight longer, then take up, wipe dry inside and out,

make

leaves

a stuffing of fried sliced onions and sage

powdered, adding black pepper to make

pleasantly hot, and with this

fill

the inside of the

heart as full as possible, and pressing top,

make

it

in

from the

the holes secure with wetted bladder sewed

Let

over them.

then wrap

it

it

in

it

hang up

for a

day or two

brown paper and smoke

downwards, for a week

;

half-an-hour with olive

then take oil,

d 2

it

to dry,

it,

down, rub

and smoke

it

point it

for

again for a

3G

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

week. it

clone,

rub

it

again with the

oil

and Jiang

a quick current of air for twenty-four hours,

in

and

This

as soon as

it

dry enough to retain

is

coat

it

securely with the gelatine composition, and keep

it

three months, and longer the better.

it

must be broiled.

and

roasted, It

is

cut out

slices

“ This

is

Ultimately,

when

an exceedingly beautiful

THE NUTRIMENT IN

it,

cold to be

treat.

EISH.

a subject on which I have

made some

ex-

periments, the results of which go far to prove that there

is

much nourishment

in fish

—

butcher’s meat, weight for weight

may

;

little less

and

in effect it

be more nourishing, considering how, from

softer fibre, fish

there

is

is

more

I find, in fish

—

easily digested.

in sea-fish

a substance which health,

and tend

may have

its

Moreover,

— a substance which

does not exist in the flesh of land animals,

lous

than in

viz. iodine,

a beneficial effect on the

to prevent the production of scrofu-

and tubercular disease

— the latter in the form of

pulmonary consumption, one of the most cruel and fatal

with which civilised society, and the highly

educated and refined are

prove that, in the majority of solid

matter

—

that

is,

Comparative trials

afflicted.

fish

the proportion of

the matter which remains after

perfect desication or the expulsion of the aqueous part, is little

inferior to that of the several kinds of butcher’s

meat, game, or poultry.

And

if

we

give our atten-

tion to classes of people, classed as to the quality of

—

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

we

food they principally subsist on,

37

find

that

the

ichthyophagous class are especially strong, healthy,

and

we

In no other

prolific.

see larger families,

class

than that of

fishers

handsomer women, or more

do ro-

bust men, or a greater exemption from the maladies

Dr. Davy.

just alluded to.”

WELSH DRIED SALMON.

A great

deal of the

W

elsh

salmon

is

“ poached,” or

taken surreptitiously, in the long dark nights, by

means

and “ spearing,” when the

of lanterns

tracted

by the

salmon

is

light,

come

often lank

for at

and out of

season,

and conse-

it is

tolerable

the shops by gentlemen,

having resided some time in Wales, and, as

home

happens, prejudiced in favour of

However, not so

if it

possesses

much from

the fuel

it

is

the method of curing

it

who often

productions.

any admired flavour it,

it

as

arises,

from

smoked with, and which the poachers

can easily procure, to wit, dried gorse, besides short grass turfs

mons and on the mountain off

The

to the water’s edge.

quently of inferior quality, yet some of

and inquired

fish, at-

fern,

and young

which grow on com-

sides,

and which

is

pared

the land veiy thin, and dried in the sunny weather.

They dry and smoke

the salmon in some remote part

of their cottage, or hut,

and hence

appearance, and there

it

tending

it

for the Chester

and purchase it.

its

dark and dirty

remains until traders in-

and Bristol markets come

I conclude

it

pays the curers pretty

38

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

well for their trouble, since

Take a

them nothing.

fresh salmon, sixteen to twenty pounds weight,

open at the

split it

belly,

inches from where the to the

costs

it

bone up

beginning at about eight

tail sets on,

and cutting through

remove the

to the nose,

gills

the refuse, wipe well out, and quite dry.

and

all

Mix an

ounce of ground white pepper with a pound of coarse sugar, and rub all the inside with it, particularly at the bone, for fifteen minutes or more sides together, lay

of the mixture

it

on a

dish,

;

then bring the

and rub the remainder

over the outside of the

all

the

fish,

back

fins

it

the thin side uppermost, until next day in a

lie,

and thick part of the shoulders.

cool room.

Then rub

produced, and

let it

again

lie

let

over with the liquor

twenty-four hours longer, the

Now

thick side uppermost.

all

So

until dripping ceases, lay

hang

it

up by the

tail

again on a clean dish,

it

strew fine salt well over the inside, bring the sides together,

and rub the outside well with

fine salt, leav-

ing the fish covered to the thickness of haif-a-crown

with pounded rock

salt,

Each day

be under the salmon. be thrown away fresh salmon five

— for

is

a thin stratum of which must

observe

cured

— and

it

is

the runnings must

hot weather

more

days from the commencement

salt it

when

applied.

will

In

be safely

cured, provided that the thick part of the back

and

shoulders have been well supplied with the salt heaped

under, around, and above those parts. the

fish,

brush

off

the

salt,

Then

take up

wipe dry, prop the sides

—

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. open with a

in

splints of

current of

wood, and hang

it

up by the

Next day hang

air.

39 tail

up by the that remove it to

head for twelve hours, and after

it

your chimney, where, suspended with the head down-

may smoke

wards, you

with beech chips two parts,

it

oak sawdust two parts, and fern or grass turfs two

two weeks, keeping the

parts, for

As

splints of

wood.

of smoke,

and while

pliable, lay

sides

wide open with

soon as the salmon

may

it

be a

little

some well dried oat straw

bring the sides together and

In two months you

is

taken out

warm and

in the inside,

round with

tie

string.

have prime dried salmon for

will

broiling in steaks, cut three quarters of an inch thick,

and

will

keep good

many

months.

FINE DUTCH SALMON. This

pare the

fish as

kippered

&c. &c.

per our

J ews.

esteem with the

article is in great

Pre-

directions for a superior

own

salmon,” having taken out the backbone,

Now,

for a fish of sixteen to twenty

pounds

weight, take

Bay

powder

salt in fine

.

Saltpetre

mix them

well,

minced

...

fine

.

and rub the skin

over, using a large handful.

a good layer of

common

lb.

1 oz.

Chillies, bruised

Garlic,

li

salt

.

^

oz.

\

oz.

side of the fish all

Lay your

—rock

is

fish

flat

far preferable

on

40

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

in your tub, strew

bay leaves on

cover well with

it,

your mixture, and put your boards on the ing them

down with

weight-

fish,

Remove them once

accuracy.

a day for the purpose of applying more of the seasoning, and put fresh bay leaves on the third morning.

On

the fifth morning take the salmon out of

the pickle tub, stretch

open

it

quickly through

splints, rinse it

back by wooden

at the

and water, and

salt

proceed as in the next receipt, in every respect, until the process

is

completed.

SUPERIOR KIPPERED SALMON. Choose a

short, thick fish

with a small head, a

bright eye, and of twenty pounds -weight, although

salmon cannot be too large for fresh from the ice they

brought home

it is

—

come packed

down

inches of where the

tail

at

will

begins.

the

liver,

by various gills

draw a

This must be acis

left quite

bare

thus one, the under, side of the fish

be thicker than the upper

the roe and as

;

at the nose,

its

one stroke to within two

complished so that the backbone

under the knife

— commence

the fish on a table with

back towards you, and, beginning sharp knife clean

just

Immediately

in.

in hot weather observe

Lay

your operations.

and

splitting,

side.

Then

take out

which may be beautifully preserved

receipts in this treatise,

and garbage, wipe out the

and removing fish

well,

and

having previously with a pen-knife severed a tissue that runs along the whole length of the bone,

and

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. hides

much

Pure

coagulated blood.

be allowed, but

salt

must not

ivater

and water may be used

in cleaning out the fish

—

that

41

to assist

cloths dipped in salt

is,

and water. In the next place we must have the backbone detached,

to

11

which

effect

you

nicely,”

will

need a pen-knife with a strong blade, or one of those used by shoemakers for “ paring,” and which are the smallest

Commencing about

used by them.

inches from the root of the

up by the

tail,

eight

the knife must be run

bone to the head, and then be-

side of the

ginning again at the same

you must pass the

start,

knife on the lower side of the bone, and so meeting

with the point of the instrument the incision made

by the

first

and afterwards the meat as

though the

fish

so

may

bone

is,

salt,

far advanced, or

bay

make

salt, at

that

ne-

handsome

downwards, and with a

a layer of finely

the bottom of your

pickling tub, and on that lay the side

The

never had a backbone.

be cut from the thick side for broiling.

Now, when thus beaten rock

be got out,

pared down as to appear

cessity for thus taking out the slices

may

cutting, thus the bone

salmon,

its

scaly

fine bread-grater cover

the whole inside of the fish with finely rendered loafsugar, to the thickness

of a

crown-piece, and put

plenty of bay leaves upon that, place your flattening

boards nicely on the fectively.

fish,

and weigh them down

ef-

These must of course be displaced once

a day to supply more sugar to the

morning put fresh bay

fish.

leaves, with a

On

the third

pound more

salt,

42

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

and an ounce and a half of

Look

the boards.

keeping

it

to

every morning and evening,

it

well supplied with fine salt and sal prunelle,

On

but using no more sugar. lightly over

through it

ground white pepper, and renew dismiss the hoards, bring the

upon the

other, and, scattering salt over

Then

the next day.

it till

salt

and water, and hang

by

dry, stretch out the sides

back, and

placed across the current of dry air

;

examine

fire

and hardened, then expose and when ready smoke

Oak sawdust Beech chips

Fern or for three days fire

and

it

up

quickly

it

to drip

;

wipe

pieces of light lath in a free

it

and

if

the

or sticky, place

it

be-

occasionally,

it

until the “ face ”

it

rinse

suspend

clammy

red side begins to feel fore a

the fourth day sprinkle

Next day

thin side over leave

finely

it

the leaves.

it,

and replace

sal prunelle,

becomes somewhat dry again to the air current,

it

with

.... ....

grass turfs

.

.

nights, adding a

the last twelve hours.

2 parts 2 parts 2 parts little

peat to your

It should not be cut for

three or four days, and then with a very sharp knife

held across the

fish in

an oblique

cures the slices

much

broader than

direction, if

which pro-

the knife were

placed at right angles with the back of the salmon.

The

slices

paper.

are usually broiled, enclosed in writing-

MEATS, EISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

43

COLLARED SALMON. Take a scale

it,

short, thick fish

remove the

about twelve pounds weight,

fins,

cut off the head with two

inches of the jowl, and the

with six inches of the

tail

Lay

these to be cured some other way.

fish,

open

wipe nicely and

at the back, take* out the bone,

scatter sifted loaf-sugar over

it

after lying six hours

;

and leave

replenish the sugar

the fish

it

till

the next day.

Next draw your knife down the middle, thus making two

sides of

which may by cured in

it,

different ways.

Get a pint and a half of recently picked shrimps, examine them

carefully,

and pound them

in a mortar

with an anchovy, wiped and boned, and so this

mixture as you think

sufficient

Cayenne pepper Mace, Cloves

„

Bay

„

leaves

Table adding a

in fine

little

.

powder

much

of

—

viz.

.

i

oz. oz.

.

.

i

.

.

1 oz.

i

oz.

2 oz.

salt

water that has been boiled.

Make

a

and cover the red surface of the equally begin at the head part, and roll

nice smooth paste, fish it

with

up

it

;

into a nice firm collar,

which bind tightly with a

broad tape, and sew up in strong calico or light canvas.

Let

it

into a

remain thus two or three days, then plunge

pan of boiling water, with

saltpetre half

it

an

44

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

ounce, and salt one pound, to each half-gallon of

water

when done enough,

;

it

and next day put

sieve to cool,

with a slow

take

it

out, set

in

on a

it

your chimney

dry gradually, and then smoke

fire, to

it

with

Beech

for a week. it

up

2 parts

When

cool take off the cloth,

in a dry air to get solid.

greatly relished.

or

down on

it

bay

2 parts

lops

It

and sent

closed in writing paper

Lay

2 parts

......

Fern

Oak

....

chips

Let the thin

may

to table,

then be en-

and

will

be

side be treated thus

the skin side, and cover

salt in fine

and hang

it

with rock

powder, sifted loaf sugar half a

pound, and saltpetre half an ounce; so

let it lie forty-

eight hours under a board of tasteless wood, weighted

Next wipe

down.

it

dry,

hooks in a free current of

and hang air

it

on your tenter-

twenty-four hours

;

mix

well,

Essence of cassia

.

Essence of cloves

.

Essence of mace

.

Essence of cayenne

Essence of bays lay the fish flat

down on

brush of camel’s

to

1 tablespoonful

4 tablespoonful 4 tablespoonful tablespoonful

.

the scaly side, and with a soft air,

pay

mixture, and cover with oiled tute,

^ tablespoonful

it

well over with the

silk,

or

prevent the evaporation of

its

best substi-

the

essences.

;

MEATS,

Repeat

this

hours,

and

expose

it

receive

brushing over three times

to a current of

it,

give

may be

dry

air,

45

twenty-four

in

up from the head, binding

roll it

composition, It

GAME, POULTRY,. ETC.

FISII,

tightly

and when ready

to

a fine firm coating with gelatine

it

and keep

it

three months in a dry place.

cut in slices for broiling, or

boiled let

if

it

be put into boiling water.

KIPPERED MACKEREL.

When process.

and

in season

full of roe, is the

Take a dozen mackerel,

time for this

them down

split

the back from the head downwards, and leaving the thin side connected for an inch with the

out the roes and ful if gills

otherwise

some of which

good

will

;

olive

oil,

Rub

out.

and

downwards three hours.

be beauti-

let

the insides

them remain skin

Boil for a quarter of

an hour the following ingredients, and skim well

Rock salt Bay salt

Lay your

common

or

salt

.

1 lb. 1 lb.

Saltpetre

\

Coarse sugar

1 lb.

Water

1 gall.

fish in

take

cured and preserved, remove the

and refuse, wiping clean

lightly with side

livers,

tail

lb.

an earthen pan along with

Thyme

1

Allspice, bruised

Twelve bay

.

.

leaves, sirred

.

handful

1 oz.

:

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

4(1

Pour the

boiled liquor

upon them

Fahr., and cover close.

the

fish,

at

about 150 deg.

In thirty-six hours take out

wipe them dry, stretch them open by wooden

and hang them

splints at the backs,

in a strong air

current; watch the inside face of them, and

coming clammy, place them

Smoke them

of a nice eliesnut

Oak

lops or sawdust

Fern or

turfs

Beech chips

They

will

keep well

oiled paper toast

if

a

to

fire

if

be-

for an hour.

brown colour with 2 parts.

.

.... ....

2 parts. 2 parts.

packed face

to face

between every two of them.

with dry Broil or

them moderately.

MAY Take

FISH

fifty

—A

LESS EXPENSIVE METHOD.

mackerel,

“ kippered mackerel.”

split

and clean them,

Mix

Bock or common Bay salt

salt

.

2 lb. 1 lb.

Saltpetre

^

lb.

Molasses

2

lb.

warm

these,

them

in a deep

as for

and rub the pan and

fish well let

on both

them remain

sides

;

lay

until next

when they must again be rubbed and laid for another twenty-four hours. Then take one up and

day,

try

if

the flavour

is

high enough for your approbation,

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. if not, let

remain a few hours longer in

47

When

pickle.

enough, wipe them dry and stick them as kippered herrings, on your tenters; dry

them a day

or two and

smoke them well with

Oak

2 parts

lops

Fern

2 parts

....

Beech chips

1 part

Peat

1 part

SUPERIOR PRESSED MACKEREL. In the midst of the mackerel season take twenty fine fresh fish, spht

them open

far as to the backbone,

at the belly, only as

remove the

gills

and

entrails,

on the

clear out well, particularly the blood lying

bone,

up

wash them with

Make

to drain.

salt

and water, and hang them

a pickle by boiling for twenty

minutes,

Rock

salt or

common

Coarse sugar, foots

salt

.

.

.

.

Saltpetre .

....

Water

Lay

2 oz.

1 oz.

1 gall.

the fish in a vessel, and pour the liquor,

luke warm, upon them; keep the fish

and

1 lb.

1 oz.

leaves

Laurel leaves

lb.

1 oz.

Jamaica pepper, bruised

Bay

2

let

them

liquor, boil

it

lie

twenty-four hours

up,

skimming

well,

;

down by

a board,

then pour

and return

when

off

it

the

on to

.

48

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

the fish for twenty-four hours more.

up and hang them to the current of air

When

to dry, exposing the insides well

by wooden

to

splints placed inside.

both inside and outside, re-

sufficiently dried

move them

Then take them

your chimney and smoke them a dark

colour with

....

Oak sawdust

When

1 part

Fern

2 parts

Beech

2 parts

Peat

1 part

cold, take a pair of large scissors,

and cut

the sides of the belly part, to extent of an inch off the heads, lay the fish

by

side,

of a camel’ s-hair tool

Essence of cassia Essence of

Repeat

on them backs, packed

and saturate the backbones with

by means

this

take side

mixture

:

1 tablespoonful

.

2 tablespoonfuls

allspice

Essence of cloves

2 tablespoonfuls

Essence of nutmeg

1 tablespoon ful

Essence of mace

1 tablespoonful

this twice

;

off

.

a-day for three days, and when dry,

coat the fish with gelatine composition, and keep in a

dry place.

BRITISH AMERICAN SALMON. Annually, in November,

we

get from St. John’s,

N.B., excellent salted salmon in

tierces, dexterously

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. the backs, and which,

split at

if

49

treated in the follow-

ing manner, makes tolerable kipper.

If

it

is

purpose to convert two or more

fish at once,

them nearly of the same

and lay them

size,

shallow tub with plenty of soft water and

your

choose

salt, so

in

a

that

they are totally immersed for twenty-four hours; then take one up, lay

on a

it

table, scale side

downwards,

and with scalding hot water and a middling brush clean the face of the red

side,

soft

by drawing the

instrument down always in the same direction with the grain of the fish

will be quite necessary to use

it

;

a small knife in paring

away

to the middle of the belly

loose films

which attach

and about the vent.

This

done, turn over, and brush the skin side until clean,

and looking well fish in

to the fins

and

Now

gills.

lay the

plenty of cold water, in which three-quarters

of an ounce of

common washing

has been dissolved

change the water every twelve

;

hours for thirty-six hours,

pounds each, and weight.

You

soda to each gallon

if

the fish weigh about nine

so in proportion for greater or less

will

now

let

the fish

lie

in

pure cold

water for six hours, then hang them up to chip for twelve hours, and, taking them down, brush the red side quite smooth, stretch

of

wooden

current of

splints, air,

their getting

open at the back by means

and hang them

to dry in a free

watching the inside faces to prevent

clammy

to the fire should that

or sticky,

and presenting them

be the case.

E

In a day or so you

50

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF t

may

proceed to smoke them, after you. have gained a

well-dried face on the red side;

this

must be done

with

Oak

lops or sawdust

1 part

.

.

Beech chips

2 parts

Fern or grass

turfs

.......

Peat

Give them a continuance of colour of the inside face

common

air,

yet,

may

when drawn

1 part

smoke

this

and nights, and although while might wish,

2 parts

.

.

in the

for

two days

chimney the

not be so deep as you out and exposed to the

the shade will be greatly altered, and a

fine bright red will succeed

it.

BLOATERS. This process

is

generally conducted in so negligent

—excepting

and rough a manner Lowestoft

— that a

be out of place.

little

As

at

Yarmouth and

may not

advice on the subject

the barrels are emptied of their

contents, the largest fish should be picked out

the

rest,

and pickled separately, for otherwise the

consumer gets the salt,

the

and most

finest herrings

likely in

small ones are

scarcely eatable. far

from

from

As

so

hardly tasting of

a state of decay, while

much

oversalted,

the fish generally

clean, they should be

as to

come

to

be

hand

washed by means of

round baskets agitated in tubs of

salt

and water, and

turned into separate pickling vats, which should have

;

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. false

51

bottoms in them, perforated here and there with

being introduced to

holes, Jtaps also

when required. The safest and make use of saturated solutions

let off

method

best

of

the pickle

salt,

is

which are

made by adding twenty-nine pounds of common to seventy-one pounds of water. The herrings float in this pickle,

battens of

wood

down by

little

dissolved,

will

tion,

which

is

salt

will

but must be totally immersed by

laid

on the top of them, and held

bags of

which, being gradually

salt,

maintain the

strength

always lessened as the

and

muriatic property thereof, description are

to

weaker

all

fish

imbibe the

pickles

at the sin-face

may in this way As to the length

of the solu-

of this

than at the

bottom, and

be

No.

of time the fish should

4.)

rectified.

(See Note,

remain in the pickle, that depends whether they came to

hand with coarse

salt scattered

amongst them,

at

the sea coast, a precaution necessary in hot weather

a good criterion

is

rigid while being

cooked

is

when

the fish begin to be

Pure fresh water

must never be added or made use of

in this process

been imbibed, or the heads will

broken when putting them on the enough, run

off

or

handled, but to try one or two

certainly a sure proof.

after salt has

stiff

spits.

all

When

be

salt

commence and hang them up in

the brine, and shortly

putting your fish on the rods, a current of am, then remove

and smoke them with

E 2

them

to

your chimney,

52

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

Oak

When

lops

2 parts

Beech chips

....

2 parts

Fern or grass

turfs

2 parts

.

.

they have been smoked enough, return them to

the air currents, as they keep until wanted.

If a constant

much better on and

full

the rods

smoke has been

kept up, twelve hours will be sufficient for the smaller fish,

and sixteen

They

to eighteen

hours for the large ones.

are not intended to keep good

more than four

or five days, but in perfection should be eaten the day after being cured.

KIPPERED HERRINGS.

The

herring

is

of society, that

curing them

mends

any improvement

modes of

in the

The

a valuable acquisition.

is

rid of the gut

so favourite a fish with the majority

getting

and other objectionable parts recom-

and claims a decided preference over the

itself,

old practice of sending the fish to table ichole, and, in fact, carrying to the parlour left in

the scullery.

The

what ought

salting process should be

conducted in a similar manner to that for

when taken then

split

have been

to

bloaters,

and

out of pickle, should be wiped dry, and

open

possible; yet,

at the backs, leaving the

bone bare as

an inch from the tail, the thin

remain attached

side should

to the thick side, this adds

the appearance of the fish

when

at table,

much

to

and saves

the curer some trouble in the succeeding stages of process.

Clean out

all

the offal and

gills,

and wipe

—

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. with cloths clipped in

53

and water, and suspend

salt

them by the shoulders upon the tenter hooks of your rods, thus avoiding the trouble caused by the old plan of keeping the fish open

them

by

splints of

and when dried enough

in a free current of air,

— one night hang them

is

generally sufficient for that purpose

brown

rods, but not in

and cold

chimney, and smoke them of a

in the

nice cliesnut

air

and keep them on the

colour,

a current, though in a dry

when packed

;

Hang

wood.

room

should be insides faces

it

together, with strips of dry oiled paper between each

two

fish.

SUPERIOR SPICED KIPPERED HERRING. This

is

a more troublesome, but withal a delicious

preparation of the herring, and should be practised on the best and freshest

“Manx

herrings”

Yarmouth

out the eyes and at the back,

pickle

Man

and the

Select two dozen

the largest and roundest,

lot of fish,

wash them a minute

Isle of

July and August,

in

on in the season.

later

from out of a

—

on the

fish, as

in salt

and water, having taken

wipe them, and lay them open

gills,

wipe clean out, and put them into a

made by

boiling

water for twenty ninutes,

skimming, and then straining through a

Rock

salt or

bay

Coarse sugar Allspice,

ground

salt

.

.

.... .

.

.

sieve,

1^

lb.

1 lb.

2 oz.

54

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF Fifteen bay leaves, shred

Six laurel leaves, shred

Water, 5 quarts

Let the

by

remain in

fish

then’ shoulders,

and stretched widely open,

in a quick current of air. cases,

where the

then hang them

this six hours,

inside

is

In

and

this,

all

to

dry

similar

be acted upon by the

to

atmosphere, those sides should be placed on the hooks so as to receive the full

When

dried as

advantage of the

you think

the chimney, and smoke

brown

them

sufficiently,

them

return them to the

;

off the

brush them

hooks, lay

hang them

in

of a fine bright

till

air,

air current.

and next day take

them on

their backs,

and

over the inside with essence of allspice

all

and water, two

parts of the former to one part of the

latter; repeat this,

and when absorbed, brush them

over again liberally with this mixture

Essence of cassia Essence of cloves Essence of mace Essence of bays

... ... ... ...

Water

:

2 tablespoonfuls

4 tablespoonfuls 2 tablespoonfuls

4 tablespoonfuls 6 tablespoonfuls

repeating this three or four times, according to your taste.

Any

combination.

of the others

;

be used singly or in

The backbone must be

Stow away, wrapped charcoal

may

well saturated.

in paper, in malt

cooms and

they will keep a long time, and repay your

trouble well.

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

55

CAPE BRETON, OR DIGBY HERRINGS. St. John’s,

N.B., and Cape Breton furnish us with

these highly flavoured

branches of that region. coasts soon

after

for

Small herrings

our

visit

Christmas, and being “ shot,” or

without roes, are not well

smoked with the pine

fish,

much

esteemed, but will serve

curing in this way.

common

saturated solution of

taste of the brine, then put

Let them

salt so

them on

in a

lie

long as just to

dry them

spits,

a week, and smoke them for a month with deal chips,

having

much

turpentine in them, from carpenters’

and with the

shops,

and top branches

cones,

oak sawdust

larch

fruit of the

of

any of our

smother the flame.

to

fir

firs,

tree,

fir

and some

These

fish

are

generally eaten without being cooked, and will keep a

long time, packed in small boxes, or buried in malt cooms, &c. &c.

ABERDEEN REDS. For roed,

this

and

purpose the herrings should be large,

nine pounds of water,

Immerse them

fresh.

and

common

to every

of saltpetre.

spits,

pound

When

rately flavoured,

salt to

run

full-

in a pickle of twenty-

seventy-one pounds of

of salt

add half an ounce

they become rigid and modeoff the pickle,

put them on the

dry them a day or two, and smoke them with

56

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

Oak

lops

2 parts

F ern

2 parts

Sawdust

.

2 parts

.

.

until they are of a deep red.

SPELDINGS.

At present we are of curing the

not aware of any superior method to the “ finnin haddock,” which,

haddock

procured soon after they are drawn from the

if

But some

smoke, are very fine eating.

duce these

may

ones

such abundance that

fish in

curers to save

seasons pro-

them by various

processes

be converted as follow

Split

:

it

the small

;

them open

at the belly, right over the backbone, clean

the garbage,

common

of

gills,

tenters,

care they do not.

soon are spoiled.

oak

lops,

dry and then

it

all

then hang

dry them a day or two, taking

become clammy,

Make to

away

in a strong brine

a

fire

as these fish very

in your

chimney with

sawdust, and beech chips, and

have brought

often

them

until nicely flavoured,

salt

them on your

&c., and lay

induces

when you

embers put in the rods, and

smoke them

highly.

first

Whitings are

done the same way, when the markets are

glutted with the fresh

fish.

SMOKED SPRATS. This the

is

best

a remunerative business principles,

when conducted on

employing children at

trifling

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

I have found the following to be the best

wages.

method

Provide a wooden trough

:

eight feet long

by a yard wide, and eighteen inches deep

wood an inch square along the the vat, and six inches above one of

will rest the

spits,

yard long, and out

sides,

fix strips

;

lengthwise of

On

another.

these

which must be of iron wire, a Pick

go within the vat.

so as just to

the small fish and rubbish, and wash the bulk

all

in salt

57

and water,

once, as they are apt to sweat

many

but not too

as for bloaters, if

at

lying long together,

and then would never be bright when smoked. Use a saturated solution of

rock

sprats,”

main

and

salt,

two hours

in pickle

on the

if

spits,

Hang them

;

you intend be

will

run

which

common

off

or, preferably, of

salt,

produce “bloated

to

sufficient to let

them

re-

the brine, and put the fish

may be a little

pointed at one end.

in a free current of air

till

next day, and

smoke them with *

Oak

lops

2 parts

Sawdust

2 parts

Beech or birch chips until they are the colour of will not

.

new

2 parts.

.

sovereigns.

keep well more than four or

are generally esteemed.

commerce,

let

dry them well

them remain

when on

and when they begin

them with

If

the

till

five days,

you want dried

and

sprats for

in the brine four hours, spits, in

to lose their

similar fuel

These

a current of

air,

plumpness, smoke

of the colour of Spanish

58

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

mahogany.

These when packed in boxes,

boxes, will suit for exportation to the

like cigar

European Con-

where many thousands of boxes are sent every

tinent,

winter.

ALDBOROUGIT SMOKED SPRATS.

Many

gentlemen who delight in highly smoked

relishes, inquire for these articles,

dom

the sprat season

In the beginning of

—November—take a bushel

of fish,

all

the largest ones, and with a dozen pounds

common

coarse salt or rock salt at hand, throw a

pick out

layer of

it

layer of

fish,

let

as they are sel-

be procured north of the metropolis, I subjoin

to

an easy way of getting them.

of

and

them

bottom of your salting tub, then a

into the

lie

and

so

on in alternate layers

end;

to the

four hours, mixing them about in the tub

two or three times,

this will fix the scales,

cleared off the fish

by the “ washing ”

which are

Now

process.

take the sprats up, and with a basket wash

them

quickly in very strong salt-and-water, using the same salt if

you choose, and get them on

your

to

dry them as soon as a strong current of complish

it.

Smoke them with oak

spits,

and

ah’ will ac-

alone, lops

and

sawdust, until they are of a very dark red colour, and

when

quite cold, pack

circles,

them

the heads lying

their backs.

all

in

round

one way, and the

The appearance

of

inviting, yet they are very good,

without cooking.

shallow’ kits, in

them

is

fish

on

anything but

and are always eaten

Vast quantities used

to

be exported

;

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. to the Netherlands, Holland,

59

and the German States

they are also well adapted for sea-stores.

BRITISH ANCHOVIES. If

were worth while

it

must

select

freshest

your

you can

to

favour the deception, you

from out of half a bushel of the

fish

get, retaining only the middle-sized

Gorgona

ones, for the real

never so large as

fish are

our large sprats, and never so small as our

and your’s should off the

heads

be

also

all

of the

—not cutting them — Wash

and draw out the gut.

same

little

size.

ones,

Pull

rough manner,

in a

not and wipe not the

fish,

but put them in straight-sided unglazed earthen

jars,

wood

mixture

is

preferable, in layers alternately with this

:

Bay

2

salt

Sal prunelle

2 oz.

Cochineal, in fine powder pressing

them down

lb.

as

.

2 oz.

you proceed, and

letting the

top layer of the mixture be at least two inches thick.

Get cork bungs cut

to

plenty of melted resin.

your

cellar or store

fit

well,

Bury

and secure them with the jars in dry sand in

room, “ out of the way,” and do

not disturb them for nine months, or

A

sprat season.

fortnight before

till

you would broach

your “ prize,” dissolve

Gum

dragon

2 oz.

Sal prunelle

2 oz.

Bed

1 oz.

sanders

the next

60

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

in a pint of boiled water, nel,

pour

vessels

;

and

strain

through flan-

it

evenly over the contents of your jars or

it

secure the

bung

again, and in a

week

or less,

turn the receptacles upside-down for a day or two,

and then again

them upright.

set

“ feeding ” them.

And when

aid of “ brick-dust,” or what

Bole,” to give

anchovies”

them a

may

all is is

This

called

is

done, without the

as bad, “

Armenian

fine red colour, the said u British

do to

make anchovy

sauce

of,

with

other ingredients, but to bring to table, with dry or

buttered toast,

Note, No.

as

Gorgona

fish

— Oh

never!

See

7.

TURBOT

PINS.

This idea will naturally suggest itself, that “a pretty expensive product this will be, by cutting

off

the fins

of a tm’bot at such a cost;” but there are fish to be got at

much

less price that will

instance, the brill or brett,

answer the purpose, for

and even good firm

in hard frosty weather, will

opportunity of testing the value of the venture. private family, fins it

it

would

if

such a

fish

came

eat quite as well, even

might not be exactly a handsome

fish,

and cut

off

plaice,

afford the u amateur ” an

to table

In a

minus

its

though

to the eye

dish.

Scale the

the extreme edge of the

fins,

lay a

wood an inch

thick on the body, just to act

as a guide to the knife

—which must have a very sharp

piece of

point

— and cut

off

the fins with an inch and half, or

rather more, of the solid attached

;

place these upon

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

61

their bases upright in a pie dish, a foot long,

and pour

in as

much

the inch

of this pickle as will cover to the extent of

and half taken out

Bay

of the fish, viz.

salt

\

lb.

Coarse sugar

^

lb.

Jamaica pepper, bruised

1^- oz.

.

Water

2 quarts

boiled twenty minutes, skimmed, cold.

Let them remain

basting the part which

is

in this state twelve hours,

not in the pickle three or

Then

four times with plenty of the liquor. the

fish,

wipe

again in the same

it

pour in the dish as much of the following

cover as before,

Bay

i

shred

leaf,

as will

leaf

oz.

1 oz.

Cayenne pepper

i

Table

1 oz.

salt

Garlic,

Porter

minced .

.

oz.

1 dessert-spoonful 1

.

Saltpetre

quart

1 oz.

boiled fifteen minutes, slammed, rest in this eight hours,

and gone

and then

them up, wipe them fit,

tine composition.

dry, suspend

cold.

laid flat in

Now

covered by the pickle four hours longer.

until they are

out.

viz.

Laurel

them

take out

same dish emptied and washed

position, in the

Now

and place

dry,

it

and got

strained,

them

Let and take

in draft of air

and coat them nicely with the gela-

They should be kept

a

month

at

AND PRESERVATION OF

G2

CURING, SMOKING,

least,

but three months would be better, and then

broiled lightly, olive

first

being rubbed over well with pure

Observe, the same pickles and trouble

oil.

would have done a dozen

fins.

RIVER EELS SMOKED. This a nice preparation of the richest fresh water fish

we

have, and will fully repay the amateur for

the trouble and trifling expense. eels,”

because those

fish of

when they run

stagnant,

taste of the

mud

the truth of

Take

each and upwards, cut split

them open

to large sizes,

off

also in salt

make

a pickle of

Bay

I have experienced

the heads,

tails,

them

out, well

1 oz.

Allspice

2 oz.

Bay leaves

1 oz.

Green

2 oz.

laurel

fish into pieces six

from

Next

1 lb.

salt

fifteen minutes,

fins,

washing

and water a minute or two.

Saltpetre

by boiling

and

at the belly to the backbone,

Water

Cut the

are said to

fresh eels of two pounds

the vent upwards, and clean

them

ponds or waters nearly

they inhabit.

this.

I have said “ river

5 pints

skimming and going inches long, put

them

cold.

into

a deep earthen pan, and pour the liquor over them.

Let them

lie

thirty hours, then take

them up, wipe

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

them

dry,

and with

sides well open,

little splints

hang them

of

63

wood extend

the

in free current of air for

twenty-four hours, watching the insides do not re-

Then

main damp. their backs

a

take them down, lay them on

packed up one against another, and with

camel-hair tool brush the insides over plenti-

flat

fully with

Essence of

allspice

....

Essence of cayenne pepper

W

.

4 tablespoonfuls ^ tablespoonful 6 tablespoonfuls

ater

repeat this in four hours, and

when

it

is

absorbed,

mix Essence of cassia Essence of mace Essence of bays

it

.

... ...

Essence of cloves

and apply

.

.

.

1 dessert-spoonful

1 dessert-spoonful

2 dessert-spoonfuls 2 dessert-spoonfuls

with the brush three times at

becomes necessary by absorption the bone.

The

parts

—

least, as it

particularly regard

from the vent

to the tail

may

be cut open at the back, and treated in the same

manner four essences.

times, with each

Hang

the

pieces

in

combination of

your chimney, and

smoke them thoroughly with beech and

fern,

the

chips, grass turfs

and coat them with the gelatine composi-

tion effectually.

GORGONA FISH SMOKED. These are inquired for by foreigners, and especially

64

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

by the

who

Israelites,

generally admitted.

If

are connoisseurs

many

you may save forty per of anchovies “

first

You have

self.

would insure the lost

fish,

are likely to be

as

wanted

by purchasing a barrel hand,” and feeding them yourcent,

another advantage fine racy flavour,

where the shopkeeper

more

in

is

also,

which

is

viz.

you

gradually

perhaps two months or

in selling out a barrel in small quantities.

A

barrel turns out, in general, about twenty-two pounds of neat fish, exclusive of the sauce,

more. will

Acting on

and not often

and feeding them, you

this advice,

be able to take out what you want, without break-

ing the

rest,

and be careful

barrel well covered with the slate

which you always find

to salt,

keep those in the

and

after that the

in the barrels of genuine

fish.

Run

thin wire through the shoulders of the fish,

and making a

light

temporary frame to hold the wires,

smoke them with beech and oak, with some fern or grass turfs.

As no wiping nor washing

in this instance, the scales will fish,

recommendation

class.

They must be

colour,

and should be packed

required

have adhered

and a general rough appearance

result, this is a great

is

of a coarse

will

to the

be the

to goods of this

brown mahogany

in boxes, the size

and

shape of cigar-boxes, and made of wood that has neither smell nor taste.

Dried bay leaves must be

packed with them, about forty in each box.

(

MEATS,

FISII,

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

65

ITALIAN CINCERELLI.

At

the beginning of every sprat season the fish are

possessed of

or liquid fat to a great extent

oil

;

this

diminishes as the season advances, and in about three

weeks or

so

from

their

arrival, take

first

half

a

bushel of prime fresh ones, pick out the largest, and cure them as best suits your convenience at that time,

then throw away the small ones and rubbish, and leaving the middle

W set

present purpose.

the

class for

ash them in salt and water quickly as possible, and

them

Now make

in a basket to drain.

a mix-

ture of

Dried bay leaves

Green

laurel leaves

Mace,

in

powder

.

.

.

Sal prunelle, in powder

Genuine cayenne

Gum Bay

olibanum

2 oz.

.

.

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

i oz. | oz. "2

....

OZ.

2 oz.

H

salt

r—

Powdered These must be

Take now two wide

all

loaf sugar

•

bungs cut

to

fit

tightly.

of the old-fashioned brimstone matches

and fumigate them well, wipe them

and beginning with a

light layer of the mixture,

proceed with alternate layers of

both are

.

perfectly clean unglazed stone jars, as

lighted into each jar, out,

r-f|M

.

well dried, powdered, and sifted.

at top as at bottom, with

Put a bunch

lb. rQ

filled,

minding

to

fish

and powders,

until

keep them very closely

I

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

66

stowed as you proceed

;

fix in

the bungs,

and secure

them water-tight with melted resin or pitch put them away in a dry place for six months, turning the jars topsy-turvy every fortnight. They will be delight;

wiped dry and

ful,

with

fried in olive oil boiling, or eaten

If thought to be too high

anchovies.

toast, as

flavoured by some persons, put them in

warm water

120 deg. Fahr. for ten minutes prior

at

to serving

them.

SMOKED CONGER Request your fishmonger

and

their skins, heads, to six

Take a fish

from

of

five

scissors

the fins close to the body.

Open

at the belly,

to the

to send in these without

pounds weight, and with a large pair of

or shears, cut-off it

tails.

EELS.

head

all

from three inches below the vent up

part,

and clean away

all

the garbage, and

opening a membrane that covers the backbone, and hid clotted blood, which must be set free.

Cut the

into pieces eight or nine inches long,

and w ash

fisli

and very quickly

well

dry with

cloths.

in strong salt

Rub

all

outside with this mixture

and water, and

the pieces well inside and

:

Common

salt or rock,

Bay

powdered

salt,

r

pounded

finely

1 lb. 1 lb.

Coarse sugar O

1 lb.

White

2 oz.

and them them

lay

pepper, ground

them

in a deep pan, rubbing

daily for four days

;

and turning

then take them up, wipe

dry, stretch out the sides

by

splints of

wood, so

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. t-liat

face,

the

wind may get easy access

and hang them up

twenty-four hours.

67

to the inside sur-

in a free current of air for

Next lay them on

their hacks,

and pay them inside plentifully with Essence of

allspice

.

2 tablespoonfuls

.

... ...

Essence of cloves Essence of bays

Essence of cayenne

.

1 tablesjDoonful

2 tablespoonfuls

\ tablespoonful

.

Particularly attend to the bone and the solid pieces be-

low the vent, towards the to the bone,

essences

and

specially well

repeating

;

which must be cut open

tail,

paid over with the

three or four times.

it

Let the

thus on their backs forty-eight hours, at-

pieces

lie

tended

to at least twice a day,

continued.

and the brushing part

Now wipe each piece dry,

rub warmed oat-

meal over every part and hang them up fully accomplished, they

to dry,

must be smoked and dried off,

and

in paper,

and

three weeks, then the ragged edges pared

wrapped

either coated with gelatine or

Rich broiling steaks may

hidden well in malt cooms.

be cut in two months.

which

The

fuel for

smoking them

should be

Oak

lops

....

2 parts

Peat

1 part

Beech

2 parts

Fern or

turfs

...

If boiled in the pieces as they

be put into water that

boils,

F 2

1 part

were cured they must

and when brought again

68

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

to tlie boiling point, to till

be only simmered afterwards

To be

done enough.

eaten cold.

COLLARED CONGER EELS. Fish of four to treated as follows

pounds and upwards may be Head, tail, and fins beiim re-

six :

moved, the skin must be taken

Lay

but reserved.

off,

the fish open at the backs, take out the large

bone the whole length, scatter bay

salt in fine

powder

generally over the inside face, and coarse sugar over that again,

and load boards down upon both

same

kippered salmon.

sides,

renew the

salt

Next day remove the and sugar, and dust ground

white pepper over

all;

leave pressed

as for

boards,

Now

morrow.

add

to the pickle,

down

which

is

till

the

now

get-

ting moist, Allspice, in

Juniper

Bay

powder

berries, in

.

.

powder

powder

leaves, in

Laurel leaves, shred

For convenience, you

best,

it

1 oz.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

1^

must be cut

and according

1 oz.

oz.

in pieces,

your

to

whenever

vats.

When

it

suits

it

has laid two days more, and has been well rubbed

inside

and out with

the pieces, wipe

this

them

fair

each piece, making a nice dried

gradually, then

finally coated

second mixture,

with

collar,

smoked

cloths,

and

take

up

roll

up

which may be now

as

the

former,

and

with gelatine, &c., or buried in malt

cooms with paper round ing than string.

it.

Tape

is

better for bind-

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

69

DRIED CONGER EELS, HIGH FLAVOURED. Take two them,

not exceeding four pounds each, skin

eels,

cut off

the heads,

tails,

and

fins,

split

them

them

open

at the belly, clean well out, cut

little

below the vent, and again into pieces four

inches long.

Lay open them

the vent, and rub

the solid pieces from below

in every part well with

Cloves, powdered finely

.

1 oz.

Mace, powdered

.

-k

.

1 oz.

.

1 oz.

finely

Nutmeg, powdered

Bay

finely

leaves, shred finely

Coarse sugar

Let them

lie,

across a

oz.

1 lb.

being rubbed and turned in the pickle

twenty-four hours, then add bay

salt

continue the rubbing a day longer.

one pound, and

Take them up

now, and rub them with Juniper

berries, bruised

Shalots, shred finely

Table

them

this twice

dry,

\

.

1 oz.

salt

£

Black pepper, Repeat

.

a

finely

oz.

.

ground

lb.

1 oz.

day for two days

;

then wipe

and suspend them in a free current of

until the insides,

which must be exposed by

wood, are no longer moist. rately in calico that has

Sew up each

air

sticks of

piece sepa-

been steeped in whisky or

rum, and with which the backbone inside has been well saturated.

Tie round with narrow tape, hang to

—

70

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

dry one night, and coat with the gelatine composition.

In two months they

he splendid, being broiled in

will

the wrappers and served hot.

This excellent

BROWN CAVIARE. relish may be prepared

with advan-

tage

in

January and February, when the

come

to

our markets

some

roes

of

and

livers as soon after

and put them

cloths,

which common ounce

simmer by the

them up separately a pan of boiling water,

have been

them get

let

let

them

cold in the

When taken up,

in.

— and pound them smooth

and

dissolved,

the skins and dark

of a perfectly

in

the roes for four hours and

fireside,

water they were boiled

blood

in

one pound, and saltpetre one

the livers for two hours, and

all

they are taken out

tie

into

salt

to the gallon,

remove

Having procured

full of roes.

the fish as possible,

codfish

specks

carefully

—coagulated

separately in a mortar, until

Then mix them

paste.

in the

proportion of two and a half ounces of the liver to

one and a half ounce of the well together on a dish

— a clean board

with a broad knife, until not a

dark speck can be seen.

Cinnamon, Mace,

in finest

Sift these,

leaves

and add

.

powder

in finest

better or one

a mixture of oz.

.

^

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

^

oz.

powder i

oz.

.....

table salt

is

bit of film

powder

powder

Cayenne pepper,

Bay

Make

in finest

Cloves, in finest

and work them

roes,

to

your

1 oz. taste.

Lay

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. paper shavings in the bottom of a stone

them a piece of new

alternate layers of leaves of

bay and your

one laurel leaf on each layer of the it

when near

below the

to the heat of a water-

the leaves, mix

you think

it

the bottom to

mix with vour

calico,

all

then

;

potting pots with

it

let

and

ob-

none of the

oil

Now

fish.

;

and when cold pour

clean

fill

dry them a

little

let it

jar,

take out

the fish well together, and

requisite,

with

Tie paper

and take out the contents of the

cool a night,

make

to

fish,

roes.

bath in a large saucepan for three hours

serving,

and upon

jar,

and then proceed

calico,

over the jar, and subject

71

little

salt, if

jars

and

in a slow oven,

and

clarified butter over,

finish

with wetted bladder, &c. &c.

WHITE CAVIARE Is prepared

from the milts of the male

and must be procured fresh

up

in cloths,

and

saltpetre, as for

the

skins

brown

—which

them

boil

in salt

involve

work the mass well with the fied.

Tie them

as possible.

caviare.

will

fish alone,

and water with

When

cold,

much

trouble

remove

—and

best fresh butter clari-

Subject to the water-bath with bay leaves and

green laurel, and season with

Mace

2

Cloves

1 oz.

Table

4

salt

White pepper

Nutmeg

.

.

.

.

oz

-

oz.

1 oz. 2

oz

*

'

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

72

which must he

When much and

all

lemon

he just perceptible,

zest as will

pots of small sizes, in which the fish

well pressed

down

tie

over with bladder

This preparation

;

and keep

or

clarified butter

and next day, seeing that the

oil,

must he

put a short time in a cool oven,

;

and when cold he covered with olive

sifted.

are well incorporated, add to the mass as

of the

fill

and

in the finest powder,

all

air

is

excluded,

in a dry, cool room.

two or three months

will require

to

get well flavoured and mellow, and has been highly extolled

by a

first

rate authority.

CAVIS OF MACKAEEL.

Take twelve

nice fresh

open them

fish,

at the belly,

take out the roes, which set apart, the eyes,

and wipe quite

clean.

&c.,

Mix

White

pepper, in powder

Mace,

in

powder

Cloves, in powder

Table

gills,

.

1 oz.

^

.

.

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

4

salt

Season the insides of the

oz.

oz.

fish plentifully

mixture, and close the sides upon

it,

tie

with this

the fish round

with packthread, and place them on then* backs on a layer of table

Take

off

salt,

and

them

let

lie till

next day.

the threads, and lay the fish in a deep dish

or earthen pan, and pour over

water in equal parts.

Pare

them

off

best vinegar

and

the thin yellow rind

of one large or two smaller lemons, lay this on the top,

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. cover with paper and bake in slow oven.

consumed

up the

in a week, boil

pour again to the

fish,

when

73

If not

skim

pickle,

all

and

it,

cold.

HERRINGS PICKLED.

When the

the herrings

come

some

opportunity to preserve

Scale twenty

open them

fish,

fresh,

embrace

by. this

process.

cut off the heads,

wash them

quickly

season the insides with .

.

Cloves, powdered

.

.

oz.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

1 oz.

Bay

.

.

.

1 oz.

•

•

'o'

powdered

Cayenne pepper

.

and fry them a nice brown colour

and do the same

to the roes,

to get cold,

up.

Make

on sieves or

oz.

in boiling olive

oil,

which must have been

washed and well dried previous

by

tails,

out, and, if

Nutmeg, powdered leaf,

and

and water, and dry them

in salt

Mace, powdered

fins,

them well

at the belly, clean

required, ;

and

fine

to the frying

cloths,

;

set all

and keep covered

a pickle of

Allspice

1 oz.

Black pepper

1 oz.

Few bay

leaves

Salt

6 oz.

Vinegar

1 pint

by boiling twenty minutes, and straining quite

clear.

74

CURING, SMOKING,

Lay yonr ware

fisli,

pots,

AND PRESERVATION OF

cut in proper pieces, in oblong earthen-

and pour the pickle over them when

Next day

scalding hot, not boiling.

with more liquor, and will

be

up the pots

fill

These

bladder over them.

tie

it is

for table in a week, but will be improved

fit

If any water

keeping.

certainly spoil

them

put

is

to the

vinegar

it

by

will

for keeping long.

HERRINGS CAVEACII. Scale two dozen of fresh herrings, take off the

heads and

them out

tails,

split

nicely,

them open

at the belly, clean

and lay them with

their roes in

strong pickle of salt and water for three hours, then

wipe them well and season with

White pepper Mace, in

fine

.

.

powder

.

Cloves, in fine powder

Nutmeg,

in fine

1 oz.

.

.

\

.

.

powder

oz.

.

1 oz.

.

1 oz.

well mixed and sifted; replace the roes in the

which lay along in a deep spice remains,

parts,

and when

them

cold,

well.

;

tie

paper over,

Boil vinegar and

in a slow oven.

herrings so as to cover will

covered with what

and twenty bay leaves

and bake them water equal

dish,

fish,

pour

it

over the

In two days they

be very good, and are intended only for present

use.

YORKSHIRE PRESSED PORK. Take two pounds

of lean pork

and four pounds of

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. the fat, freed from coarsely,

all

skin and gristle

and mix with

Table

it

White pepper Thyme, powdered .

2 tablespoonfuls

.

2 tablespoonfuls

.

1 teaspoonful

Parsley, minced

.

.

1 teaspoonful

Sage, powdered

.

.

1 teaspoonful

.

.

1 teaspoonful

Garlic,

press the

minced

meat w ell r

into a dish, tie

brown paper over

and bake in a slow oven two hours.

it,

chop the meat

intimately,

...

salt

;

75

It

is

generally

eaten cold.

BIRMINGHAM TRIPE. It

is

not less strange than true, that this excellent

preparation cannot be procured in perfection except in

London, Oxford, Birmingham, and Coventry, the

first

of

which

is

supplied principally from Birmingham.

The more independent and

established of the preparers

of this delicacy refuse to

communicate the

the process to strangers, and

me

my own

curiosity cost

a guinea some few years ago, besides

As

from Lancashire and back again.

secret of

my

expenses

will

be seen,

however, plenty of cold and of boiling water, with an adequate amount of diligence, are the main requisites,

which I liked the practice

I have

better, since in the

eschewed the use of

chemicals, as tending to rob

ture of

its

what

purity and flavour.

case leave nearly

whole of

all

is

drugs and

estimable

The

my

by na-

butchers in this

the fat attached, and which

is

7G

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

absolutely necessary to the richness of the tripe

cooked.

It

is

forbidden to interfere with the

as they are termed, until the

when

bellies,

day they are wanted,

and they are therefore hung up

in

an outer-house.

The

cleansing

dirt

with a dull edged knife, and, proceeding in this

commences with scraping

way, scraping until you come

and tedious

part, viz. the “

one of those

little cells

of

to the

honeycomb,” and

which

it is

composed

by

assi-

forwarded by occasionally dipping the

flesh

which

is

is

always close at hand.

these means, without a grain of lime or

or any chemicals.

The

part

when cleaned

and put

into a tin jar

made on

withdrawn

— for

to

be

left in

five or six hours.

home, a teacupful of new milk gravy, in the the business

tin, stirred is

is

—

to the

off

after the bread

When

it is

is

brought

put into the liquor or

about for a minute or

so,

and

completed.

CALF’S fine large calf’s

HEAD BRAWN. head

is

best adapted

purpose with the skin on.

Take out the

bone

butcher do

it

pieces,

purpose, nearly cover-

ing the meat with soft water, and sent

common bakehouse

salt,

washed

is

two or three fresh waters, then cut into large

A

to

beautifully sweet are these parts of the beast

made by in

until,

is

The

into the boiling water,

And

every'

completed.

duity and great patience, the work is

rough

most troublesome

be attacked with a dull pointed knife,

process

off the

entirely, or let the

for

brains,

this.

this

and

Rub

a

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. over

it,

next wipe

it

little tine salt

hours

;

and let diy,

77

drain for ten or twelve

it

and rub each half well

in

every part with

Brown sugar

2 oz.

Saltpetre

f

oz.

4

oz.

Common Bay all

salt

3 oz.

salt

Turn the head

in very fine powder.

for four or five days, rubbing

pour over it four ounces of

W

a

it

est

in this pickle

each time;

little

India molasses (eight

ounces for the whole head), and continue to turn every day, and baste for a month, then

it

with the brine very frequently

hang

it

for a night to drain, fold

each part separately in brown paper, and send

smoked

When

for three or four weeks.

wash and scrape one half

table,

do not soak

it.

Lay

it

of

it

it

boil

it it

to

be

wanted for

with the rind downwards into

well with cold water, as

Let

siderably in the cooking.

skim

it

very clean, but

a saucepan or stewpan, which will hold

cover

it

thoroughly when

it first

as gently as possible

it

it

it

easily,

and

will swell con-

heat rather slowly,

begins to simmer, and

from an hour and three

quarters to a couple of hours or more, should

it

not

then be perfectly tender quite through, for unless sufficiently boiled, the skin,

which greatly resembles

bacon, will be unpleasantly tough the fleshy side of the head

twenty minutes or half an

is

when

cold

;

Avhen

done, which will be

liom’ sooner than the out-

78

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

side,

pour

tlie

water from

much

leaving so

it,

only in

the saucepan as will just cover the gelatinous part,

and simmer

it

until this

head thus cured

is

The

thoroughly tender.

very highly flavoured, and most

The

excellent eating.

is

receipt for

new.

it is

It will

he seen that the foregoing proportion of ingredients, with the exception of the treacle,

is

for one half of the

head only, and must he doubled for a whole one.

PORTABLE SOUP. Take Calves

feet

2

lb.

Mutton

5

lb.

Pork

1 lb.

One

onion,

Two Two

heads celery, minced fine

minced

carrots,

fine

minced

fine

Salt

Put

tablespoonful

1

these into a saucepan with just sufficient water to

cover them, and set

it

on to

When

boil.

Remove the

suspend a clove bag in the liquor.

and press them through a

sieve

nearly done,

;

meats,

evaporate the fluid

freed from water in a water-bath to the consistency of

honey, and pour

When veal, as

it

upon

a clean

cold, cut it into pieces

an addition, or alone,

smooth stone or

and dry

may

it.

slate.

Beef and

be treated in the

same manner.

ANOTHER, AND MUCH RICHER. Take the

lean part of a good

ham, ten pounds

MEATS,

I-'ISII,

GAME, FOULTRY, ETC.

weight, a leg of beef and a leg of veal,

round and

fillet

have been cut

of the best butter

you can get

seven heads of celery

have been cut

off,

after the

slice off all the

off,

meat, and chop up the bones small

79

put half a pound

;

into a

pan with

six or

and from which the tops

sliced,

seven or eight anchovies, two ounces

of mace, four eschalots, minced, and four large carrots cut into small pieces

set these

;

on the

and

fire

shake them often to prevent their burning until the butter and juices have attained a

pour in as much water

simmer four or

five

as will cover

hours

let it

;

darken the colour

tin cases

in a cool dry place.

ling.

it

You

your

taste,

it

into cakes,

which

may be

between writing paper, and kept

A

pint of boiling water poured

on one or two of these cakes,

will

imme-

produce soup of very superior flavour, which

diately.

will

if

out on to dishes a quarter of an inch thick,

and when nearly cold cut

into a basin

salt to

a,

fire till it

become burnt.

may now add cayenne pepper and

packed in

through

simmer by the

does not adhere to the pan and

it

it

let it

Great care must be taken that

becomes glutinous.

and pour

colour, then

them, and

then strain

;

hair sieve into another saucepan

you think proper, and

brown

be found a great convenience, especially in travelIt will

in taste

and

keep well for

many

months, unimpaired

quality.

SMOKED GEESE. After the Christmas

festivals,

geese

may

be had

80

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

somewhat cheaper than geese, clean picked salt

Take

usual.

eight fresh fine

and drawn, wash them

in strong

and water, then take Coarse sugar

Bay

1 lb.

salt

lb.

Saltpetre

| 2

Sage

1 handful

Three

oz.

eschalots, sliced

Bay leaves Water

2 handfuls

2 quarts

.Boil these fifteen minutes, and skim well, and

when

cold,

rub the birds well inside and outside, and

them

lie,

let

being turned and rubbed with the pickle

three days

;

then wipe them dry, and with two ounces

of ground black pepper, rub the insides until the spice

adheres firmly. air for

Hang them up

in a free current of

two days, and then smoke them a fortnight

with

Oak

sawdust

....

Fern Beech chips

Keep them

2 parts 2 parts

....

in paper bags well

2 parts

defended from the

fly.

BUCANED BEEF KIDNEYS. Take

half a dozen beef kidneys,

cut

them open

lengthwise, take out the pipes and skins, lay

them

a deep dish and pour boiling water over them

;

in

in

two

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

81

hours take them up and chy with cloths, then rub well in all parts with

Parsley, chopped coarsely

Eight

eschalots,

4 tablespoon fuls

.

minced

Coarse suo O ar -

Bay

^ —

in fine

salt,

powder

lb.

1 lb.

.

Let them be rubbed and turned twice a day days, then

hang

four times in twenty-four hours.

hung

to dry,

two

in a brisk air current for twenty-four

and rub them well with best

hours,

for

olive oil three or

They must again be

and when ready must be subjected

to a

gentle heat in your chimney for forty-eight hours, or until the surfaces

on both

sides are a little shrivelled,

the proper embers being of

Beech chips

Fern or grass

Oak

.... turfs

.

dust

tion,

cold

or,

2 parts 1 part

Peat

When

.

2 parts

1 part

you can coat them with gelatine composi-

cutting into appropriate pieces, put them in

oblong pots and cover them with olive days,

up again with

fill

them. similar

oil

;

wait two

and tie wetted bladder over

Pigs and sheep’s kidneys

manner.

oil

may

be done in a

— The above have been much praised.

BUCANED BEEF UDDER. Get seven pounds of the udder of a prime old beast

—when much

older

G

it is

five years

worthless for this

—

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

82

purpose grass

— and

cut

;

one that

made

the pickle

two inches thick and lay

in slices

it

been quickly fed up on

lias

as follows

a

or rock salt

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

2 quarts

Let the meat

boiled and well skimmed.

lie

in this

being well rubbed and turned occa-

then wipe dry, and hang in a quick draught

of air for two days, after which

rubbed

lb.

1 oz.

White pepper Water

sionally,

lb.

1A

.

.

Saltpetre

thirty-six hours,

in

:

Coarse sugar

Bay

it

all

chimney

to

over with olive

it

oil,

must be

plentifully

and put

into

your

be dried, rather than smoked, forty-eight

hours with

Oak

cut

it

....

sawdust

1 part

Beech chips

3 parts

Fern

2 parts

now

in pieces,

and coat them nicely with the

gelatine composition.

In two months

it

will be mel-

low and beautiful.

BUCANED CALF’S LIVER. This

is

a beautiful preparation, and in

my

opinion

not in any degree inferior to the buzzards and storks’ livers

of the

Pampas

couple of healthy fine blood-vessels

— and

of South America. livers,

skins,

cut

away

all

Take a

the pipes

and rub them well with

.

MEATS,

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

F1SII,

Juniper

berries, bruised

Jamaica pepper, bruised

.

1 oz.

.

1 oz.

Parsley, chopped roughly

Bay

oz.

li

salt

Treacle

and

them

let

lie,

lb.

1 lb.

turned and rubbed twice daily, for

two days and nights, or rather more

Now

83

if

thick livers.

wipe them dry, and cut them into pieces (some

for being coated

them on wires

and others

to

be put in pots), hang

until the surfaces warrant your pro-

ceedings, then with embers, not too powerfully hot,

and towards the end of the third day smoke

dry,

them with

Oak

1 part

lops

Beech chips

Fern

3 parts

or turfs

....

Peat

1 part 1 part

In two months these rashers will be splendid, rubbed well with olive '

lemon squeezed pickle,

is

oil

and broiled on a

over,

or

fire.

A

served with good lemon

highly recommended.

BUCANED BEEF Take

clear

six

them with a

pounds of

SKIRTS.

skirts of

prime beasts, beat

cleaver or rolling pin, but not so heavily

and rub them thoroughly with

as to start the gravy,

Black pepper, finely ground Allspice, finely

ground

G 2

.

.

.

1 oz.

1 oz.

84

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF Slmlots,

Bay

minced

salt, finely

14 beaten

2 oz.

Coarse sugar

3

Sal prunelle, finely beaten

Let them

lie

so,

.

.

.

away the

piercing the meat, and hang

them

Now

oz.

1 oz.

.

turned and rubbed, four days and

nights, then wipe dry, take

hours.

oz.

rub the best

to

.skins,

but not

diy twenty-four

olive oil all over

them, and

dry with gentle boat (mind, be careful not to

start

the gravy), of the embers of

Oak

1 part

lops

Beech

F ern

or birch

or turfs

.... ....

2 parts 2 parts

Peat

1 part

and coat them with gelatine composition, and pot them with

fitting pieces

The

bladder over.

by sawdust a

little

fire

olive

or cut in

oil,

must be backened,

if

and

tie

too hot,

damped, or remove the meat

into

a corner of your chimney for a while.

POTTED OX CHEEK. Take the

half head of a well-fed beast, chopped

into four pieces, cut out the gullet, the small bones

and

cartilages,

with

cloths,

and wash

and rub

Allspice,

it

Saltpetre, in

Bay

salt

well in

ground

Coarse sugar

in salt

it

.

all

parts with

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

'

.

.

powder

....

and water, dry

|

oz.

\ 4

lb.

oz.

4

oz.

MEATS, then

let it lie

three

Then

rubbing.

FISIT,

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

clays,

85

occasionally turning

it,

and

place the pieces in a wide stone jar

or stewing pot, along with

Thyme

....

Marjoram Lemon thyme Water be baked four or

dish,

handful

1

handful

j?

handful

1 pint

Tie double paper over, and send to

1

five hours,

it

to the baker’s oven,

then turn

and when cool enough, separate

from the bones, and chop pieces of

fat

the meat

now

coarsely,

it

out into a

all

the meat

and mixing the

equally throughout the mass. into a dish that will about hold

using what part of the liquor you

may

Press it,

and

require to

moisten the meat, and leave a plate or dish over the meat, with weights to keep day,

when

it

is

Next

has settled into a dense mass, pour

clarified butter all

It

pressed down.

it

over

it,

a quarter of an inch thick.

eaten cold, and in winter season will keep well

some weeks.

POTTED SHRIMPS, DIABLE. Follow^ the directions for preparing the fish as for

potted shrimps, until you arrive at the seasoning de-

partment,

when mix Table

salt

\

lb. lb.

Sifted loaf sugar

.

.

.

^

Cayenne pepper

.

.

.

1 oz.

Durham mustard

.

.

.

1 oz.

8G

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

Make hot in

four or five tablespoonfuls of olive n.

out, season

it,

and

in less than a

minute take them

them well with the mixture and

dishes to cool.

and when done

Continue thus

afterwards the pots

may be made

They

will

them

fish

down

clarified butter,

Keep them

much

be

and

secure with bladder,

white or coloured paper over that.

dry airy room.

Lay

to treat all the rest,

your pots and press the

fill

Next day cover with

closely.

boiling

stewpan, throw a handful of the shrimps at

a time into

on

oil

in a

liked if taken

with wine, and rectify a vitiated palate.

POTTED PIGEONS. Take a couple of dozen of pigeons, which should be hung up a full week in cold weather. They must be drawn of the intestines and nicely picked of penCut

feathers.

them open washed in

off

the necks and pinions and lay

at the backbones, salt

and water,

wiped clean out and being

dried

quickly.

Season them well with

Nutmeg, grated

1 oz.

Cloves, in fine powder

White pepper, Table

Bay

salt,

in fine

leaves, in fine

inside, particularly let

them

lie

in fine

.

.

powder

powder

.

powder

.

1 oz.

.

2 oz.

.

6 oz.

.

1 oz.

on the backbone and vent, and

put down in a jar and covered over for

a week, turning them daily.

Then

place

them

singly,

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. or in halves,

if

a small family

;

87

put a lump of fresh

butter inside of each, and, tying thick paper over the pots,

yet

bake them slowly until done.

warm pour

off

While they

are

any gravy that may have been

produced, which must be set by, and

when

cold the

butter taken off and added to the quantity which will

be required to be

clarified,

must be covered, when least half lent,

and with which the birds

cold, to

an inch in each

pot.

the thickness of at

These

will

be excel-

taken cold.

RUSSIAN POLONY.

Your

success in this undertaking chiefly depends

upon the choice of the meats made use

Take

of.

The lean of Belfast smoked hams, 1 year old 3 The fat of Belfast smoked hams, 1 year old 3 High 3 o beef O flavoured hung Smoked ox tongues 3 Hard back fat of bacon 4 .

of

lb. lb. lb.

lb.

lb.

Peel the tongues after being boiled and reject the

Cut the four

roots

and

dice

and pound them separately

tips.

with mucilage of

Next cut the

fat

gum

first

of the above

smooth

into

up

into

pastes,

tragacanth and fresh butter.

bacon into dice or cubes as large as

the finest growth of peas, no rind or gristles to be retained

;

then mix intimately together,

Garlic, Shalots,

minced minced

lj% oz.

...

.

Juniper berries, in fine powder

.

.

.

6 oz.

3 oz

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

88

Jamaica pepper, in

fine

powder

3 oz.

.

.

Black peppercorns

Bay

powder

in fine

salt,

3 oz. .

.

.

1 lb.

.

Coarse sugar

and blending

all

\

the meats well, season highly with

the mixture, and put

Then work

mellow.

Get some in

ceed to

fill

possible,

salt

down

in a jar for a

week

to

the mass well for half an hour.

and soak them

and water, wipe them dry and pro-

them, keeping out the

which you

pressure,

it

of the largest ox intestines,

luke-warm

lb.

air

as

much

as

by regular and even

will effect

and pricking, only where necessary, with a

stocking-needle.

Make your

polonies about a foot

long each, and put them aside as done until the next

day

;

then repeat the pressure and

They must be put salt

and

saltpetre,

and

after

finally.

with a

little

once boiling, simmer

Then take them

up, wipe dry,

in a current of air for a week, being turned

daily without

fail.

Oak

Then smoke them with 2 parts

lops

Beech chips

....

2 parts

Fern

1 part

Peat

1 part

for a month. will

them up

into boiling-water

only for half an hour.

and hang

tie

Stow them away

in malt cooms.

They

be prized by those persons who delight in high

flavours.

prefer

They need no

coating

them mouldy on the

;

nay,

outsides.

many foreigners

MEATS,

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

FISII,

89

GERMAN SAVELOYS. Take rough Harnbro’ smoked beef

.

Neats’ tongues, smoked

Smoked

liam

.

.

.

.

.

2

.

1 lb.

.

1 lb.

Fat of bacon

2

lb.

lb.

Boil the tongue moderately, peal and cut off the gross

Cut up the whole

root tip. dice,

and pound

equally in

so let

it,

Sage

Pick out

minced

Then

two days.

it lie

powder

leaves, in fine

Garlic,

finely

.

.

.

3

.

.

2 oz.

leaf, in

powder

.

sift

well with the meat, so that

the flavour alike set

it

;

put

if

aside for a

not

sausage skins, and little,

.

it

all

week

:

parts

if it suits

and put them

nice

into a

2 oz.

.

3

may

let

go

cold,

partake of

which bung up

and

your

Now

Now

taste, well fill

solid prick

your

them a

pan of boiling water

simmer slowly three quarters of an hour.

them out and

oz.

to get mellow.

add seasoning.

when

.

them, and blend them

into a jar,

it

try a small quantity of

and good,

.

capsicum, in powder

mix them well and then

and

oz.

2 oz.

Chillies, or

close

take

.

Shalots

Bay

all skins,

and mix a pound of good moist sugar

sinews, &c.,

throughout

into large

thoroughly, mixing the fat in

it

parts of the mass.

all

meat

of the

Then

to

take

and next day wipe them

and smoke them three weeks with

90

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

Oak

lops

...

and dust

Fern or grass

turfs

.

3 parts 3 parts

.

then hang them up in a dry room and keep them with hams, tongues, &c. a month,

popped

just

These into

minutes, or fried in olive

oil

he excellent in

will

boiling water for

and eaten

five

cold.

JERSEY BLACK PUDDINGS. In France,

in the

Channel Islands, and Belgium

these delicacies are introduced at the tables of the

highest families, a distinction which they richly deserve, while in at

England very few persons make them

home, but purchase

mass of

at the shops

an indescribable

groats, blood, bread, herbs,

&c.,

and

fre-

quently, to cover the indolence of the pork-butcher,

loaded with such an amount of the commoner spices, as to render the

whole anything but palatable. Then,

again, the fat, which seems to be the only dation,

is

found here and there in lumps

before they become heated through,

it

recommen-

so large, that is

certain the

other of part of the mass must be burnt nearly to a

I think that

cinder.

we can produce an

worthy of the trouble and the

trial.

Take a couple

slight expense incurred

and put them

them into small

into a stewpan along with ten

ounces of sweet lard, and stew them slowly light

that

brown is

colour.

by

of dozen of large onions,

peel them, cutting off the bottoms, cut pieces,

article well

Cut three pounds of

till

of a

pig’s leaf

perfectly sweet and dry into dice, pick out

all

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

Boil half a dozen heads of endive, chop

the skins.

them

91

fine

and add

to the fried onions

them

season

;

with

Table

2 oz.

salt

White pepper

.

.

.

.

Parsley, finely chopped

.

Thyme,

.

Bay

in fine

powder

leaves

f teaspoonful 4 tablespoonfuls 1 tablespoonful

2 tablespoonfuls'

Half a nutmeg, grated

Now add is

three quarts of pig’s blood

good

as

—

the animal, and intimately,

work

and

well,

has

that

warm

is

you find the mixture

if

to three quarters of

skins

and with a tin funnel

tie

too thin to

stale

bread

a pound of

rice,

salt

and water,

one end of the skin tightly

and the other end up

in a knot,

two feet or

Proceed now

a yard will be a convenient length. fill

all

which have been properly

scraped and cleaned, wash' them in

it,

is

Mix

Take now the

boiled just tender but not mashed.

smaller pudding

or sheep’s

preferable.

add a handful or two of

crumbs, or half

upon

calf’s,

been long taken from

not

if still

—

to

your skins by pressing the meat through the

funnel, pricking with a pin to let out the nicely

and firmly

puddings into a

filled, tie

flat

tasting slightly of

air.

When

up the end, and put the

large pan, with plenty of water

salt,

and already

them simmer twenty minutes,

boiling,

and

let

or rather more, atten-

tively

watching and pricking them

ing.

When

to prevent burst-

the blood oozes out no longer, they are

92

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

fully cooked, then take

lie all

night on a sieve.

to six

them up and let them Cut them into pieces four

when wanted

inches long, and

for table wipe

lightly over with a linen rag dipped in olive broil

them ten minutes.

Serve them

plain,

them

oil,

and

but very

you cannot procure endive, you may subcelery, which must be boiled along with three or

If

hot.

stitute

four laurel leaves

Leeks

the tender parts only must be used.

;

also are generally liked,

of the onions

but in that case part

must be omitted.

MARINATED SALMON. Take fish, in

six or eight

pounds of the middle of a large

preference to a similar weight of the whole of

a grilse or salmon trout, scale split it

and cut

it

off the fins,

open at the back and reserve the roe and liver;

wipe the

fish

over the red

next day.

out nicely, and strew moist sugar

put

side,

Then make

Bay

leaf, in

Mace,

in

it

dish until the

the following mixture,

powder

powder

Cloves, in

powder

White pepper, Table

away on a

in

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

^

oz.

.

.

.

f

oz.

.

f

oz.

powder

salt

lb.

Take out the backbone neatly and rub the sides well with the

all

fish

on both

mixture and the former sugar

;

lay

three or four laurel leaves upon the red face of the thick side, turn the thin side over

upon them, and

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. set

away

it

Then

take

in a cool place for twenty-four hours.

up, wipe dry, and cut the sides into

it

and place them

fitting pieces,

deira; tie double paper over

Pour

done enough.

till

warm, and

set the pieces

—covered

next day

action of the air

Now

colour.

upon the

the

add more

oil,

upon

off

it

in a slow

the pickle while yet

on a sieve

to drip until the

with a cloth to prevent the

it,

and thus

and

to preserve the

into each one place a piece of the

face downwards,

red

genuine olive

close

and hake

choose your pots according to the size

of your family, fish,

in a deep dish

and half a pint of Rhenish wine or Cape Ma-

spices,

oven

93

oil, let

and

fill

up with

remain until the next day, when

and again on the third day replenish-

ing what has been absorbed by the

fish.

Then

tie

wetted bladder over the pots and keep them in a cool dry all

This cannot

air.

who partake

of

it,

fail

of gaining the approval of

and

is

the most certain method

of obtaining fresh salmon in the winter months.

same

oil will

The

do again and again for a similar purpose.

MARINATED TENCH AND CARP.

How these

often have I seen twenty or thirty brace of

delicious

and exceedingly nutritious

fish

ex-

posed for sale in some provincial market-place, and spoiling for

want

of purchasers,

some neighbouring

baronet or esquire having been drawing his pits and preserves.

But why no purchasers ? Simply because,

although the spectators might nearly beg them, the

:

94

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

price being so low,

few persons only would know

wliat to do with them, they not being u poor men’s

and the

fish

would be too expensive pies

made

them

sauces, &c., required to dress ;

the operatives have not seen

of them, like eels, so even the million as

they are termed do not enjoy them, and ten to one the beautiful fish are lost

;

whilst

if

they were near

Houndsditch or the Minories, amongst the

Israelites,

they would not remain half an hour unsold even at half-a-crown the brace, because they

know how

to

prepare them, and delicious indeed are the majority of their fish dishes.

Take

three brace of these

scale them, cut off the tails

and

fins,

fish,

them

split

open

at the back, take out all the garbage, gills

eyes,

and wash them quickly

in salt

and water

and

now

;

wipe them dry, and have ready the following mixture

Fresh parsley, minced finely 2 tablespoonfuls

Thyme,

in

...

powder

Marjoram, in powder

.

.

2 tablespoon fuls

2 tablespoonfuls

Moist sugar

^

lb.

Table

f

lb.

Make two

salt

sides of

each

and cut them

fish

across, again

place these pieces in alternate layers with the mixture

and

in an oblong pot closely covered up, aside for forty-eight hours

replace

them

in the

same

them 'well and turned each

;

set

then unpack the

receptacle,

piece over

them

fish

and

having rubbed ;

so let

remain

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

95

twenty-four hours longer, the thickest pieces lying

Now

nearest the bottom of the jar.

and wash the pieces separately water with a

trifle

them between

and wiping, leave

it,

you are preparing, by

cloths while

boiling the used herbs

weak vinegar and

in

of saltpetre in

unpack again

and liquor with half a pint of

vinegar and water for ten minutes, and skimming well, strain

Now

it

through a fine sieve and

it

aside.

take

Mace, bruised

i

Cloves, braised

.

Boil strain

.

1 teaspoonful

.

Twelve bay

leaves, shred

F our laurel

leaves,

Of these

green

the strained liquor

for

fifteen

through a

2

Lay your

pint

thoroughly,

and add port wine half a

pint, return this to the saucepan,

close for twelve minutes,

skim

minutes,

fine sieve

oz.

1 oz.

.

Cayenne pepper

side.

set

and

let

simmer

it

covered

remain by the

fire-

pieces of fish in a pie dish that will

just hold them, the thickest near the bottom,

and pour

the liquor in the saucepan over the

tie

doubled over the dish and bake

till

fish,

done moderately,

which can always be ascertained by the the bone

upon a knife being

applied.

the liquor, take out the fish and set night, covered

up place the ;

paper

fish

leaving

Now pom

-

it

off

to drain all

pieces in the best adapted

9G

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

pots and

fill

up with

olive

renewing on the third

oil,

day what had been absorbed by the der over.

In

this

and similar

fish,

and

tie

cases take care that the

in quantity to cover the contents to the

oil is sufficient

thickness of three quarters of an inch at least.

be remarkably fine eating in a month.

will

r

blad-

These

You

can-

quality

you

not purchase such at the shops.

MARINATED SHRIMPS.

To

ensure this delicacy of

must buy your shrimps at

home with

live

all

alive,

first-rate

and

boil

possible despatch.

and pick them

Set a gallon of

shrimps in three quarts of boiling water, in which

one and half pounds of bay or rock

and

solved,

boil

them

salt

fifteen minutes,

has been dis-

then strain

off

ijf

the water and as soon as possible

commence

shelling

them, and keep them covered with cloths as you pro-

Be

ceed. shells

particular that no refuse or pieces of the

remain to disgrace the preparer, and laying them

lightly

on clean

dishes,

mix amongst them the

follow-

ing seasoning in very fine powder, being well sifted

and dried the day previous and kept ,

cool

moisture with the assistance of a moderately

oven,

together.

and not two

Nor can any

as the less time that so

much

is

fish

to

be seen sticking

excuse avail in this instance,

occupied in potting these sorts

better chance will there be of your total suc-

cess in the product.

Ii

I

repeat that the shrimps must have been deprived of all their

i

bottled up.

MEATS,

Mace,

FISIT,

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

in finest

Nutmeg,

powder

in finest

Cloves, in finest

Table

Loaf

When

salt,

possible

2 oz.

.

2 oz.

powder

powder

sugar, in finest

1 lb.

powder f

is

their

own

lb.

flavour,

fine

press the shrimps well down,

;

at the

mouth of your

down

fill

up with the

in a cool dry room.

that has been absorbed,

set

and not

till

oil

and

set

replenish the

oil

best olive

oil,

after the third

must cover the

well after three or four days, yet you

it

from

will

this process.

be owing to the

dried in the process. true flavour of the

as

them

take

and although potted shrimps are not expected

satisfaction

them

oven until

Now

Next day

Plenty of

bladder over.

place,

fill

and laying one or two bay

again,

leaves on the top,

and cool

no evaporation observable.

up, press

tie

.

which must be the cleanest and best dried

you proceed

away

1 oz.

seasoned to your entire satisfaction, the fish

pots,

there

.

powder

in finest

however fully retaining your

.

97

As

fish

to

may expect

day fish,,

keep every

If decay soon takes

not having been well

to the preservation of the

fish, this

preparation demands our

decided preference.

MARINATED TROUT AND GRAYLING. Fish about a pound weight each are the best for this purpose,

but provided that they are perfectly fresh,

have a clear red duced

gill,

and bright

to thus preserve fish of II

eye,

we

any

size,

should be in-

because by

:

98

CUEING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

this process the true flavour of the fish

Take two dozen

tually retained.

fish,

twenty ounces each, scale them, take tails,

and

fins,

open them at the

may

he effec-

from twelve off

to

the heads,

belly, take out the

garbage, and washing them quickly in

salt

and water,

dry them with cloths and leave them covered up.

Make

the following seasoning

Table

salt

.

...

.

.

Cayenne pepper

:

.

.

.

.

|

oz.

^

lb.

Sifted loaf sugar

.

.

.

Dried parsley

.

.

.

.

.

.

Thyme

.

.

.

1 lb.

1 oz. -g-

oz.

All these must be in finest powder, and

and

sifted,

with a good mixture of them rub the insides and outsides of the fish well.

wash them

them

well, roll

If

you have any roes of them,

them

in the

powder and place

inside the fish, bring the sides together,

round with thread

place ;

them

and

tie

in a convenient pot of

earthenware, and with half a pint of good sherry wine,

paper tied closely over, bake them sufficiently; then, while warm, pour off the gravy and till

and removing

the bottom. it

Now

mixture

to the top those

pour

aside bottled

pay the backbones this

the fish

lie

by

next day, basting them two or three times with the

liquor,

put

let

up

off

close.

which

thex gravy, strain

Take

laid it,

on

and

out the fish and

inside with a camel’ s-hair brush

and

;

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. Essence of cassia

Essence of mace

Lay

.

99

.

1 tablespoonful

.

1 tablespoonful

Essence of nutmegs

.

2 tablespoonfuls

Essence of bays

.

3 tablespoonfuls

tlie fish

.

on their backs and repeat

this

brushing

over the bone two or three times, then lay the fish on their

mix the

flat,

strained liquor in the bottle with

whatever you have remaining of your essence mixture,

and pour

six tablespoonfuls of

this over the fish

baste well with

;

week

times daily for a

good old malt whisky, and

Now

dry the

and place pieces

fish

oil,

and tying over with

by wiping outside

in fitting oblong pots

only,

and cover with

Re-

(See Note, No. 11.)

olive oil of first quality.

plenish the

two or three

or until they have imbibed a

fine flavour of the ingredients,

leather.

it

and after the thud day make safe with In a

wetted bladder and remove to a cool dry room.

month they

will

be very good, but

if

you could keep

some three months they would be much improved.

MARINATED SILVER EELS. Take ten pounds and a half pound heads,

tails,

remove

and

to

of fine fresh river eels, each one

two pounds, skin them, cut

fins,

all visible

lay

them open

bones, and

wash

at the

in salt

off

the

backs and

and water

then dry them, cut them into pieces four inches long,

and lay them in

it

in salt

for ten hours

;

and water with a

bit of saltpetre

then make a seasoning thus

H

2

:

r

v

100

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

ground

Allspice,

finely

.

Cayenne pepper, ground

Bay

leaf, in fine

Parsley, dried

Dry

1 oz.

.

finely

powder

.

and rubbed

1 teaspoonful 1 oz.

.

fine

2 oz.

the fish well with cloths, rub them

fully with this mixture,

r

.

for twenty-four hours collars,

over plenti-

and let them lie packed closely roll

;

them up neat

them round, and bake them

tie

mouthed

all

.

jar with a teacupful of water

into little

in a wide-

and vinegar

at

Next day pour off the liquor, take out and put them singly into white earthenware

the bottom.

N

the collars pots,

the

and cover with

oil

olive

oil,

observing to replenish

before finally closing up with bladder.

SUPERIOR MARINATED SILVER EELS, OF VERY HIGH FLAVOUR.

/

Get fresh them, take bellies,

eels of ten to fifteen

off

heads,

and, clearing

tails,

and

away all

and water and dry with

ounces each, skin

open them at the

fins,

wash them

refuse,

Then

cloths.

for ten

pounds

of fish take Garlic,

minced

finely

Chillies,

minced

finely

Juniper

berries,

minced

.

.

salt

.

finely

Jamaica pepper, powdered

Bay

.

.

^

oz.

.

1 oz.

•

f

.

1 oz.

in salt

oz.

1 lb.

Saltpetre

^

Vinegar

1 pint

lb.

MEATS,

FISIT,

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

101

Boil these twenty minutes, skimming well, and let go

Cut the

cold.

and pour

dish

this pickle over

Take out the

next day.

till

fish into pieces, place

them

them, so

fish

let

deep

in a

them

lie

and rub each piece

separately with the mixture, replace the fish in the vessel

Now

and

let

and

so for twenty-four

hours longer.

wipe them and hang them up in a current of

two days

for

them lie

spice

;

and

then with a soft brush take roll

up

off

the herbs

tightly each piece into a collar,

which secure with narrow

Choose pots of white

tapes.

earthenware that will each just hold a

collar,

as to allow of the fish being totally surrounded

and

fill

up with

air

olive oil

and replenishing

and

by

so

oil,

as before di-

rected previous to finishing with wetted bladder.

Keep

when they will be a fine They should be boiled relish at a moderate expense. in hot water, and when cold enough the tapes taken

these three

off

and the

months

fish

at least,

eaten cold.

PICKLED SMELTS, PREFERRED TO ANCHOVIES. This

an elegant preparation of the smaller

fish,

the large ones being chosen for the dinner table.

Cut

is

open the with

fish at the belly,

damp

cloths, lay in

and wipe them well out

a light coat of the following

and put them

seasoning, the roes being replaced,

layers with the mixture alternately, in a deep jar at the top

:

Saltpetre, in

Bay

salt, in

powder powder

.

.

^07

.

.

9 oz.

in

wide

102

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

Mace,

in

powder

Cloves, in powder

.

.

.

.

Black pepper, in powder Cochineal, in powder

.

oz.

.

£

.

1 oz.

.

1 oz.

.

f

oz.

These must have been well mixed. Press the

down

and boiling

in the jar,

fish well

sufficient of the best

pickling vinegar with bay leaves, and four or five laurel leaves, pour

it

upon the

They

leather over the jar. at least to

when

fish

cold,

will require three

and

tie

months

become mellow, and are much improved

by keeping twice

that length of time.

PICKLED LOBSTERS. In our hot summer months, and when plentiful,

come

it

would be vase

lobsters

scarce

are

some that would

to save

and many

in opportunely for sauce

and high

lobsters are

priced.

dishes,

when

Take

fresh

boiled lobsters, split them, take out the meat as whole as

you can, and make a seasoning Mace, in

fine

powder

Cayenne pepper

Nutmeg, Table

in fine

the fish

so that

down

in

.

1 oz.

.

.

f

.

1 oz.

.

6 oz.

powder

Bub

no part

oz.

the meat well with this is left

an earthen

bing for a day or two.

.

powder

salt, in fine

by well mixing them. and equally,

.

of

Pack

jar, it

undefended.

Put

and repeat the rub-

then in small jars and

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. pour the following pickle over covered to thickness of an inch

it,

so that

1 pint

Chillies

1 oz. .

.

Mind

f

all

as

for each pint of vinegar

much

the depth of half an inch.

and leather upon that well

oz.

that the vinegar pickle covers well,

then put over

recommended

be

^ pint

.

Sal prunelle

and in similar proportions

may

:

Best vinegar

Cucumber vinegar

used.

it

103

and

olive oil as will cover to

Tie wetted bladder over It will be

for safe keeping.

after a trial.

MARINATED HERRINGS.

The this

you can get

the heads,

clean

Scale twenty

purpose.

fattest off

freshest full-roed herrings

all out,

fish in salt

in the

tails, fins,

of

must be taken for the

shortest

middle of the season, take

and open them

at the bellies,

scrape the backbone, and washing the

and water, wipe them dry and

until next day, after

let

them

their backs in

any

Lay

fish.

vessel not too deep,

cover the fish over with the following mixture roes should be nicely washed, dried, side of the fish

and

laid

:

Coarse sugar O

Bay

salt,

lie

rubbing a dessert-spoonful of

good moist sugar into the inside of each

them upon

and

in fine

1 lb.

powder

.

f

lb.

and

—the

by the

—

104

CUEING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

Black pepper Eschalots,

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

minced

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

1 oz.

Nutmegs, grated putting half the

fish in

one layer then a layer of the

mixture, and then a layer of fish above that, and the spices covering all

cloth three days. roes inside, cut

with

rolls

leaves

so let

them

lie

covered up with a

Then wipe the fish dry, them across in two parts,

calico,

and four

;

place the

and lay them with plenty

laurel leaves in a deep dish

up

tie

warm

porn’ off the liquor,

and

bay

of

and bake

them, just covered over with good sound porter while

in

then

;

set the fish

on

a sieve to go cold, and next day put each one into a

white earthenware jar and cover with olive the same precautions as before. will

In two months they

be mellow and rich and greatly

ter in

with

oil

The

liked.

por-

which they were baked, being boiled twenty

minutes with a dozen of shalots and cayenne, will be a very good cold sauce for chops, steaks,

fish,

&c.

MARINATED SPRATS. These dines in

don

shall oil,”

be superior

some

to

what were

thirty years ago,

and sold

at 4s. 6d. at first in small tin boxes,

at 2s. 6d.,

in

“

sar-

Lon-

and afterwards

each tin containing about sixteen sprats

for sprats they certainly were. sprats

called

Take

a peck of fresh

and pick out for your present use

as

many

of

the largest and most sound as will suit your purpose.

:

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. Pull

off

the heads, cut off the fins and

105

and draw

tails,

wash them quickly through

out the

little

water,

and dry them between

guts,

cloths.

salt

and

Have ready

the following

Mace,

powder

in finest

.

.

.

.

.

2 oz.

powder

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

3 oz.

.

.

1 lb.

.

.

3 oz.

Cloves, in finest powder

Nutmeg,

in finest

Saltpetre, in finest

powder

Table

powder

Bay

salt,

mb

with which

in finest

leaf, in finest

each

fish

1 oz.

.

powder

on the inside

and then

first,

throughout the bulk; put them into small pots of white earthenware, closely packed

;

tie

bladder over them,

merely to keep out the water, and place them in a stewpan, adding water to reach half of the jars, cover the

simmer

pan and

set

until the fish are cooked

remove the

covers,

and

set

;

them

it

way up

on a slow

fire to

then take them up, aside

till

day, when, pouring off any

oil

or fat that

been given out in cooking,

fill

up with

tie

the sides

the next

may have

olive oil

and

bladders safely over.

POTTED SMELTS. For

this

purpose the smaller

Cut them open salt

now

at the belly, clean out

and water, having season

them

fish will

first

cut off the

inside with

do very well.

and wash

tails

and

in

fins

;

10G

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

Mace,

ill

Nutmeg, Table

powder in

powder

and

let

them

.

.

i

.

.

.

1 oz.

salt

Cayenne pepper

Bay

.

.

.

.

.

leaf lie till

next day,

when

oz.

3

oz.

a

oz.

£

oz.

lay

them

long pots and cover them with clarified butter

them

in a slow oven,

bake

;

and when done enough pour

the butter, and drain effectually, and let

twelve hours.

in ob-

Now warm

water bath, and running

it

fied butter to cover well.

them remain

up the butter again through a warmed

pour the clear again over the

fish,

off

adding more

in a sieve, clari-

Tie bladder over and keep

dry-

POTTED LOBSTERS. Take a couple

of fine lobsters, place

with plenty of weak

salt

them

in a tub

and water, and brush them

well from froth and slime, then wash in pure water

and pop them

into boiling water in

and

have been dissolved.

saltpetre

them on a the

shells,

sieve to get cold,

which some

When

salt

done lay

and next day cut open

crack the claws and take out the meat,

which then pick over carefully from skins and specks, the coral also must be separated and examined. cut the meat into dice and till

of

a nice smooth

butter at pleasure.

pound it

consistence,

Then

Now

finely in a mortar,

adding

season with

clarified

;

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

Mace,

in fine

Nutmeg,

Bay

powder

.

in fine

powder

leaf, in fine

powder

White

|

oz.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

1 oz.

pepper, in fine powder

Cloves, in fine powder

.

.

.

and working the paste well proceed

|

.

to

fill

107

oz.

white pots,

and putting a part of the coral into the middle of each Press well in and set aside for the night.

pot.

Put

the pots next into a slow oven, and let the steam

escape that might as

dry as

it is

arise,

possible,

and when you have got them

without changing the colour of

the preparation, set them by to go cold; then cover

with clarified butter effectually and writing paper over the tops of the pets.

POTTED CRABS.

To meet with

well potted crabs

currence, and, speaking generally, carelessness of the preparer.

out of season, that trouble and expense,

is,

crabs

—those

of

a very rare oc-

attributable to the

is

Crabs are very often

cannot be got without great

and they are very much liked

these admissions furnish reasons

some well preserved.

is

Take

why we

should have

half a dozen eastern coast

Hartlepool and neighbourhood are

always sound and well flavoured, while those on the western coast and about Ireland are

up

all

little

worth

the holes with wooden pegs, throw

tubful of salt and water and brush

—plug

them

into a

them thoroughly

,

then wash in pure water and put them into boiling

water to be cooked

;

then take them up and lay them

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

108

to get cold into a slow

may

pull off the claws

;

oven after having run

liave collected in them,

arises

from the slow drying,

Take

all

carefully dice

and put the large

shells

any water that

off

and when no more steam set

them

also to get cold.

the meat out of the claws, pick out very all

the

little

skins

and

strings, cut

and pound it in a mortar with

it

into

clarified butter until

Now

of a nice plastic mass, which cover

up

attack the body shells, pick out

the solid meat, and,

all

setting the coral aside, throw out

in a cloth.

the skins and re-

all

fuse you can find, and beat up this also with best

Durham mustard, as for the table, some cayenne, vinegar, and table

salt.

Place some of this at the

bottom of each pot, and having ready

mix what

is

this seasoning,

meat from the claws

requisite with the

Mace

1 oz.

Cloves

H

1 oz.

Table

6 oz.

1 oz.

salt .

this well into the mass,

.

.

.

2

oz.

and having put a por-

tion of the hard coral into each pot,

seasoned claw meat.

:

oz.

Nutmeg Bay leaf White pepper

Work

chillie

fill

up with the

Set the pots in a slow oven to

evaporate what moisture you can, then set aside and

when when

cold pour clarified butter plentifully over, which, cold,

must again be covered with writing paper.

If your ingredients were genuine, your butter sweet,

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

and well managed, and the will

fish of

prime

109

quality,

you

have a choice or rare preparation of these generally

admired

fish.

SIDE OF VENISON COLLARED.

As

this sort of

animal food can only be got at one

season of the year, I

recommend any person who

fond of good eating at a moderate sides or flitches of a

cost, to

is

get the two

prime fat buck, and cure them in

the two different ways herein described, with full as-

surance that the result will be perfectly satisfactory.

Take a

side

and hang

it

up

in a free current of air as

long as everyou can trust it, wiping it daily with a coarse cloth,

and dusting

it

over, particularly the fat parts,

with ground black pepper, to prevent the

on

it.

With

and, removing into pieces

fit

settling

flies

a sharp knife take off the outer skin, all

sinews, bone

for collars, that

up the ends may be

and

level

over the meat and leave dish and covered

up

it

nicely

it is,

;

so that

when

packed closely

in a

Make

in fine

powder

.

.

.

Cloves, in fine powder

Nutmeg,

in fine

White pepper,

Bay

.

.

powder

salt

Common Bay

in fine

1 oz.

2 oz.

powder

1 oz.

2 oz.

| or rock salt

leaves, shred

.

lb.

2 lb*

.

.

next

rolled

.

.

3

deep

ready a

mixture of

Mace,

it

Rub vinegar well

firm.

the next day.

till

divide

oz.

110

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

and with

this

mb

the meat, which should have been

dried with cloths well, and pack

Then

eight hours.

take

them

them down

up, and cutting slices of

hard fat bacon, half an inch wide and inches long, insert

them

done with consummate nicety.

and bind

six or eight

in channels cut in the venison

and about two and a half inches apart into collars

to lie forty-

Now

;

this

should be

up the meat

roll

tightly with broad tape,

strong unbleached calico

all

and sew

Lay

round the length.

paper shavings in the bottom of a deep straight-sided jar,

as

and upon them

many bay

six or eight laurel leaves

leaves,

and place the

and twice

collars lightly

them, then pouring in half a pint of water,

tie

upon

doubled

paper over the jar and bake slowly for three hours at nicely cooked

least, or until

;

then while warm pom’

off

the gravy into a basin to get cold, and taking out the collars set

them

wiping them diy, place the will just hold fied

Next

to drain all night. rolls of

meat

day, after

in a jar that

them without squeezing, and

pom

clari-

mutton suet with sweet lard in the proportion of

a quarter of a pound of the latter to twelve ounces of

when

the former, and thickness

cold covering the

two inches.

-of

meat

to the

Tie wet bladder over and

put away in a cold airy room.

This should not be

broached under two months, and then by placing the jar in a

pan

of boiling water for twenty minutes

can take out a collar and put away the that the meat safe

from the

is

totally covered

air.

Pop

by the

jar,

you

taking care

suet

and made

the collar into a saucepan of

MEATS, boiling water out,

wipe

and

dry,

it

FISI-I,

velopes and set

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

salt for fifteen

minutes, then take

and when nearly cold take

by

it

next day.

till

with fresh parsley and

slices of

Ill

Serve

off

it

it

the en-

garnished

lemon or pickled red

may be

eaten with it, and then I think you will confess that this u common part beetroot,

which two

of venison ”

is

very

latter

first-rate eating.

THE OTHER SIDE SMOKED. Proceed it

as

with the former

ground

minced

Garlic,

Bay

and rub

down

minced .

of

.

.

3 oz.

.

.

2 oz.

.

.

.

2\

.

.

.

1|- oz.

.

Black pepper, ground Eschalots,

and having rubbed

make a mixture

well with vinegar, Allspice,

side,

salt

f

lb.

Coarse sugar

f

lb.

Bay

2 oz.

all

leaves

parts thoroughly,

in a deep

and

let

them

lard

the best sweet fat bacon

and roll up

placed

them well with shreds of tightly into collars,

which bind with tape and envelope in canvas, and stov

r

them away

hold them conveniently spices, herbs,

and

till

salts

calico or thin

in a deep jar that will

the next day.

with as

Boil up the

much porter as you

think will cover the meat, well skimming

more scum

lie

pan for forty-eight hours ; then take

them up, wipe dry and

used

oz.

arises,

and pour

it

it

hot over the meat

till

;

no

so let

—

112 it

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

remain covered with leather for a week. Then liang

up the

collars in a

draught of

them every morning tain to be detected

pend them

minding

air,

to turn

regularly, or the neglect

when brought

to table.

is

cer-

Next

sus-

your chimney, and smoke them for a

in

fortnight with

Oak

lops or sawdust

Beech chips

When

2 parts

.

....

2 parts

Fern

1 part

Peat

1 part

cold

you can coat them with gelatine composi-

and keep them in malt cooms. Slices cut off these collars and broiled will he excellent in three months,

tion

or,

if

you choose

them and

to boil

eat

cold,

take

care they are put on the fire in ready boiling water, as

we do

(See Note, No. 10.)

not want venison broth.

YOUNG PIG COLLARED. Your porkman having

supplied you with a short,

round

pig, say

about ten to twelve weeks

taken

off close

up

to the shoulders

and

old, the

split

neck

down the

back, you will proceed to take out the bones and gristles

and wash

it

five

minutes in

salt

and water, then wipe

dry and rub the following mixture .

.

.

1

Cloves, beaten finely

.

.

1 OZ.'

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

1^

Mace, beaten

finely

Nutmeg, beaten

finely

Pepper, beaten finely Salt,

beaten finely

.

oz.

lbs.

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

—

and

in all parts well,

them

let

113

pressed closely for

lie

twenty-four hours, then take them up, wipe dry, the one half

and

up

made by

boil it in a pickle

used spices

and new

into a collar, with tape

roll

linen,

up the former

boiling

— adding thereto

Six laurel leaves, green

Twelve bay leaves Vinegar

1 pint

Ginger, beaten coarsely

Bay

—

1 oz.

.

salt

until tender.

oz.

f

Examine the

and tighten the binding

collars

when

nearly cold,

Cut them

requisite.

if

through, in the middle, straight across, put each into ajar just capable of holding

again,

adding vinegar and porter,

cover your meat completely a month, pickle

it

when

tie

if

bladder over and keep

it.

The

other half

may be

making an agreeable change, though

much

higher flavoured

until having rolled will

not enough to

must have been well skimned and

moved from be

up the pickle

be very rich, yet delicate.

will

it

;

boil

;

make

it

this pickle

Sage

up

all

fat re-

thus treated,

this latter will last,

in a nice tight collar,

you

:

Capsicums, mixed

.

.

.

berries, bruised

.

i handful

.

oz.

.

1 oz.

.

^

Six laurel leaves, shred Garlic, shred

The

Proceed as with the

:

leaves, shred

J uniper

roll

.... I

oz.

114

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF Porter or ale

1 quart

Salt

i

lb.

Boil tliese twenty minutes, skim well and pour over

the meat, placed in a deep jar that will just hold

and tying leather over

Then dry

take

air for

it

let

a week, turning

Oak

remain three weeks.

it

up, wipe dry,

hang

in a current of

it

daily,

it

and smoke

...

lops or sawdust

it

with

it

with

2 parts

Fern Beech

it,

2 parts

...

or birch chips

When

for three weeks.

gelatine, or if

cold

2 parts

you can coat

packed with hams, tongues, &c. &c.,

much esteemed

in malt cooms, will be a high,

after being kept a

month

or two to

Care must be taken in the

article,

become mellow.

broiling, as the

meat

will

be extremely rich and tender.

POTTED HARE.

A large

one

generally chosen for

is

although you run the risk of since flavour

is

and not opened

by hanging

for a fortnight

we must guard with the skin on,

it

if it

came

to

hand

A stuffing should be made of

quite fresh killed. salt

butter

.

.

.

.

Grated bread

Thyme,

purpose,

not being tender; but

the essential here,

against the toughness

Best

its

tills

in

powder

^

lb.

1 lb. .

.

Marjorum, in powder Lemon thyme, in powder .

.

^

oz.

.

^

oz.

.

f

oz.

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

and the hare

stuffed

as if for the parlour

Here, before the meat

dining-room.

or

and basted

115

is

cold, it

should be separated from the bones and well picked over, then, with clarified butter at hand,

pounded well till of a nice

paste,

stiff

it

must be

and then seasoned

with

Mace,

in

powder

.

Cloves, in

powder

Nutmegs,

in

.

f

oz.

.

.

f

oz.

1 teacupful

liquefied

Port wine

When fill

oz.

.

.

powder

Red currant jelly,

\

1 teacupful

these are well blended with the mass,

pots

and

and proceed

jars,

you may

as usual with clarified

butter to cover, and writing paper over the pots.

POTTED MOOR GAME. It is absolutely necessary that the greatest nicety

prevails in the picking

of game,

and we

and dressing

of these species

shall leave that to the poulterer

and

the cook, and only offer our advice as to the different ingredients most acceptable

game

keeping.

fire,

as they possess a flavour well

Season your birds with Cloves

....

.

.

.

1 oz.

Mace

oz

*

Cayenne

f

Table

6 oz.

Bay

Moor

hanging longer, and must not be over-

will bear

done with

seasonings.

as

salt

leaves

oz.

2 oz. i

2

worth

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

11G

and

roast

them a nice brown. Their heads, which to

be seen protruding, should be

and the pots

just nicely adapted to contain

general are glazed,

made

in

one bird each.

Clarified butter

must wholly cover

the body and half an inch above.

pasted on, covers

Writing paper,

all.

POTTED SNIPES AND WOODCOCKS.

We

see so

many

of these delicious birds now-a-

days, particularly at our seaports opposite to the tinent, that

tions of

we

Con-

are reminded of the great gratifica-

former days, when such things were not pur-

chaseable, as to induce us to embrace the opportunity of preserving some.

The

trails

must not be drawn,

but the picking and dressing must be done effectually. Affix the bills to the thighs

by skewers, the

feet

being brought on to the breasts, season inside rather highly with

Cayenne pepper

i

Table

6 oz.

salt

Mace Bay leaves

1 oz.

2 oz.

Place your birds in a straight-sided salt

oz.

jar,

with the best

butter well washed, and bake slowly until done

enough.

Then pour

off

the butter, put the birds

singly into pots, and next day clarify the used butter,

Cover well and adding O more. paper pasted over.

finish

with mating O

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

117

POTTED TROUT.

Where

the natural flavour of

can be retained vice versa.

it

is

worth while potting them, and

(See Note, No.

From

9.)

one and a half pounds weight each

them

sisted upon, or better to let

cut off the heads,

half a

pound

fish, will

is

in-

Scale your

alone.

and

tails,

to

be the

Their freshness

best size for this preparation.

fish,

delicious fish

this

open them at

fins,

the belly and wipe out clean, scatter good moist sugar

and bring the

sides of

them

over the inside of the

fish,

together again, pack

them the backs downwards

side

by

lie till

Then

take

side,

and

Bay

let

them

leaves, in fine

the next day.

powder

Laurel leaves, shred

Mace,

in fine

Nutmeg,

White Table

Mix

powder

in fine

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

.

\

.

.

.

powder

pepper, in fine powder salt, in fine

powder

.

oz.

1 oz.

.

2 oz.

.

6 oz.

these well together and season the fish plentifully

inside

and out with

it,

lay

them

flat in

a dish, cover

with a coarse meal crust and bake them in a slow

Pour

oven.

remain

till

off

the gravy while

next day.

Then

adapted to your pots,

fill

all

safe, paste

put away in a cool airy room.

f

the fish

them, and pour clarified if

an half inch thick above the

seem firm and

let

cut your trout into pieces

butter over to cover well, and least

warm and

for long keeping at fish.

Next day,

if

writing paper over and

118

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF'

POTTED EELS. Provided the

fish are fresh Ave shall

from nine ounces

size for this purpose,

They must he

each. tails,

and

down

to the tail end.

at the belly

Clear

all

Dust best

Avith cloths.

put them away,

Bay

AAdiile

from the head

and water,

salt

flour over

you prepare a

l^r oz.

....

1-| oz.

Marjoram

2 oz.

Thyme

1 oz.

ten pounds of eels

Bay

salt or

:

rock

Coarse sugar

.

.

li

.

....

i

Porter

fish

lb.

lb.

pint

Beer

Lay your

them and

pickle of

leaves, shred

Laurel leaves

F or

pound

rubbish away, and at

once Avash them a minute or two in

and dry

to a

divested of their skins, heads,

and opened

fins,

not refuse any

^ pint in

a deep dish, previously cut into

pieces three inches long, or less, according to shape of

your pots; all close

Avith alternate layers of seasoning, cover

down and

let lie

thick someAvhat longer.

them through

salt

dusting them with

twenty-four hours, and

When

all

and water, chy flour, fry

them

are pickled, Avith

if

wash

cloths,

and

in boiling olrve oil

a nice brown colour, and put them as done to drain

and get

cold.

Next day lay a pinch

of crushed or

MEATS,

FISI-I,

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

each piece of

shrecl chillies inside

fish,

119

and lay them

into white pots, cover well with best butter clarified,

and

all

Replenish next day

over the tops thickly.

any has been absorbed, and make These

will

be

much

all

if

safe with bladder.

liked with wine.

POTTED SHRIMPS. Whether you

are about to pot a large or a small

quantity of shrimps, and wish them to be u got up” in

good

style,

and calculated your own

sire

you

get

them picked quickly

to boil

to

keep well, I must deThis done,

home.

fish at

as possible,

then examine

well that no skins or filaments remain, spread

them

out in clean dishes, and evaporate the moisture by a cool oven

plished

and

attention,

when no two

be only just accom-

will

fish are

Season them according mixture

and

found sticking together.

your own taste with this

to

:

Mace, in

finest

powder

Cloves, in finest

Table

powder

salt, in finest

Sifted loaf sugar

White pepper

.

.

oz.

.

\

.

1 oz.

powder

1 lb.

.

.

.

6 oz.

.

.

.

2 oz.

All these must have been well dried, mixed, and sifted finely.

dry,

pots

must be particularly clean and

and the sooner they are

better.

in

Your Press

down

filled

with the

fish

the fish in the pots and dry

a cool oven, but not to brown them.

aside to get cold, not

damp, and

the

them

Set them

cover well with best

120

CUBING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

butter nicely clarified, and paste writing paper over

the tops of the pots.

POTTED BEEF, AS HARE. Get half a dozen pounds of fine beef skirts, hang them up in dry air for a week, or in hard weather for ten days, then beat

take

off

them well with a

paste pin,

the skin and lay them

down in a deep earthen and rub them well on both sides

pot, without cutting,

with

Jamaica pepper Eschalots,

Thyme,

minced

and

let

Then lay

.

in powder,

Marjorum,

in

.

.

.

.

powder

.

.

1 oz.

1

oz.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

1 oz.

Coarse sugar

1 lb.

Bay

1 lb.

them

salt

lie

being turned every day.

six days,

take them up, wipe dry, and cut into pieces;

them

in a deep straight-sided jar, with a

of the best salt butter dispersed in

and there between them, subject a water bath until the meat

is

little

pound

lumps here

this to the action of

tender.

You

can raise

the heat of the boiling water which surrounds the jar,

by adding plenty

Then

of salt to

while hot pour

in a dish to go cold.

and

fat

off

it,

by

eight deg. Fahr.

the gravy and set the

Next day take

meat

off

the butter

from the gravy, cut your meat

into dice,

take out the films and strings, and with the butter

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

and pounding bring the meat your hare

If

sistence.

is

to

121

into a nice plastic con-

be very highly flavoured

Now

you may add more thyme and cayenne. your pots and cover well with

fill

and

clarified butter,

again with wetted bladder. O

POTTED NEATS’ TONGUES. Unless the tongues were cured according

own

you cannot

receipts,

how

tell

to treat

to

your

them

for

you have been

potting. I shall therefore consider that

under the necessity of purchasing some out of the pickle tub of the butcher, which, generally speaking,

are not remarkable for excellence as regards flavour,

and

please

observe that

neats’

piquant flavour of their own, the

Take two tongues

curer.

pounds each, done

;

it is

boil

them

as usual,

tongues

no

always created by of

seven or

eight

and rather under-

take off the peel and extra root, gullet, and

two and a half inches of the extreme into slices jar,

have

tip,

cut

them

one inch thick, and lay them down in a

with

Molasses

....

Jamaica pepper minced

Garlic,

Shalots,

Bay

leaves, in

Four

1 oz.

.

i

.

.

.

powder

oz.

1 oz.

1 oz.

laurel leaves t

Bay

minced

1 lb.

salt

....

Porter, or old ale

i

lb.

i pint

122

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

These must be simmered half an hour and put the jar hot, then cover close with paper and in a

week

let

into

remain

then take up and wash the meat quickly

;

with water half a pint, and vinegar half a pint, cut

then into dice and pound them in a mortar with fresh butter

till

Fill clean

you have got a dry pots and

jars,

Then

oven for two hours.

nice, smooth, thick paste.

and leave them

press the

meat down

and next day cover with plenty of best and

tie wdiite

paper over.

This

in succession,

it is

clarified butter

its sort,

same ingredients would perfect three

more

well,

a quick method of

is

getting a very excellent article of

in a cool

and

as the

or four tongues

economical in the end.

POTTED BEEF’S HEART.

You may not a relish from so

expect any thing particularly good as

common an

but I often think there

is

article as a beef’s heart,

more

for producing a choice relish

credit

due

from what

is

to a person

considered

an inferior base, than in spoiling an expensive natural production in the

attempt to improve

case I fear not to give satisfaction. really trifling,

Get a

fine

In

it.

The expense

and the trouble reducible

it,

up a dry room, but not in an air current, week; then empty the cavities of the clotted cut out the deaf ears as low*

down

is

to a pleasure.

ox heart, with plenty of fat on

it

this

hang for a

blood,

internally as your

knife will reach, cut open a communication between the upper cavities and the lower ones, but on no ac-

MEATS,

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

FISII,

123

count penetrate through the outside bark of the heart.

Tie good string round and about

may it

so that the

it,

meat

be hung in various ways when needed, and rub

well for a quarter of an liom- with the following

W

est

India molasses

Strong vinegar Eschalots,

.

/

minced

up the heart

.

^

.

.

.

4 pint

.

.

.

2 oz.

let

point downwards, and

Rub

the mixture.

boil

up the

Ray

minced

salt

Hang

cold.

the holes with

fill

.

»

.

1-| oz.

1 oz.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

^

.

.

Black pepper, ground

adding

pickle,

Jamaica pepper, ground Garlic,

go

daily for a week, keeping the

it

Then

cavities filled.

lb.

.

simmered for twenty minutes and

:

3

oz.

1 oz.

and for another week rub the heart daily and keep the holes

filled.

Then

Bay

boil

leaves, in

Laurel

up

again, adding

powder

leaves, shred

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

oz.

Bay salt Water and rub with lie

on

its

morning dr}"

4

oz.

1 quart

this once.

Take down the meat and let

broad end in a deep dish, and baste for a

and hang

week it

longer.

Then

take

it

it

it

every

up, wipe

it

in a current of air for twenty-four

hours, and then rub

it

twice daily for a

week with

124

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

Pure

olive oil

Salpetre, in

powder

Bay

powder

wipe

over,

and bake

it

in

salt,

Now

When

.

dry again, put

cold cut

it

.

.

.

.

.

.

1 pint a oz.

.

.

2 oz.

in a deep pot, tie paper

it

in a slow oven until done enough.

it

open lengthwise,

select all the ten-

der parts, pick them well from strings and films, and, cutting

it

into dice,

pound

it

mortar into a nice

in a

smooth pulpy consistence. Consider now that it may he required to be kept, and unless

think pots

you are

we

shall

if it

in favour

needs

any peculiar

of

need no addition.

and jars, cover with

add some, but

salt

taste, I

Press the meat into

and

clarified butter,

tie

paper

If kept three months, or twelve months, I

over.

am

pretty sure of your approbation.

POTTED VENISON. Get a nice

fat

plump shoulder

of mutton, cut

it

open

three inches above the knuckle and also for three or

four inches on the under

and

filling these

and down

to the bone,

trenches with

Twelve

eschalots,

Port wine lees

Thyme,

in

Marjorum, sew the skin

side,

over,

minced

....

powder

.

.

powder

in

.

5 pint

.

1 oz.

.

f

oz.

room

and hang the meat

in a chy

then rub

over with

to season for nine days

;

it all

MEATS,

Bay

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

FISIT,

in

salt,

powder

.

.

Coarse sugar Allspice,

Nutmeg, ground and

let it lie,

week cut

longer.

up

itself,

The

all

must

also

Mace,

in fine

there

when

lean should be

make

cold

pounded

if

powder

fat,

the mass smooth

;

required,

and when

your

taste with

it

to

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

^

oz. oz.

%

leaf, in fine

powder

.

1 oz.

you relish, remembering that potted

seeming too

some of the

salt at first lose that it

is

predomi-

the same, but in a less

finer spices.

and cover with

and keep them

is

baked, and

.

little jars,

paper,

1 oz.

powder

nance by keeping, and

and

.

powder

salt as

degree, with

.

in fine

Cayenne,

delicacies if

.

be used

Cloves, in fine

and adding

1 oz.

you may season

readiness

Bay

.

sinews and strings, and the

or such parts as will help to

all is in

.

best calculated for embracing the

way

picking out

fresh butter

.

may now be

tenderness of the joint.

by

lb.

being turned and rubbed daily, for a It

in the

1 lb.

£

ground

125

Fill

your pots

clarified butter

in a dry cool room,

and

and where

nothing to be feared from damps.

MARINATED VEAL. Beat a

fine large cutlet

butter, eggs,

and

the cutlet and let

with the rolling-pin, put

flour into a pan, it

stew

;

and when hot lay

in

the mixture will penetrate

12G

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

to the

very inside, and your olfactory sense

and palate refreshed with nerally

delighted

veal, not insipid as veal ge-

hut with a morsel moist with odoriferous

is,

When

juices.

is

cold

it

may

be cut in pieces, placed in

oblong pots, and covered with the best olive

must be eaten with tomato

oil.

It

sauce.

ANOTHER METHOD. Chop a pound and a pound

half of veal fine, with half a

ham and

of lean

half a

pound

of sweet fat

bacon to be minced along with

Two

eschalots

Green parsley

.

.

1 teaspoonful

Mushrooms

.

.

1 teaspoonful

Marjorum,

in

Thyme,

powder

in

Mace, in

Put

.

fine

powder

1 teaspoonful 1 teaspoonful

powder

i

oz.

Cayenne pepper

^ teaspoonful

Salt

1 dessert-spoonful

these into a mortar after they

have been well

mixed, and bring the whole to a nice thick plastic consistence

put

;

fat bacon,

it

and

into a

let it

a week; then take

it

which fry in boiling of a nice

brown

mould

lined with thin slices of

remain pressed down heavily for out, cut

it

olive oil until

colour, set

them

put them into proper pots and oil

;

tie

room.

into rather thick slices,

done through, and

aside,

fill

and when cold

up with best

olive

bladder over the pots and keep in a dry cool

:

127

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

MARINATED SALMON ROES.

As

soon as they are taken out of the fish wash them

in salt

and w ater for a minute, and dry them well with r

the inside of an earthenware jar with

Smear

cloths.

sweet lard, put in the roes,

them

ject

to the

hours, then let all

and sub-

leather over

of a water bath for three

action

them

tie

and

cool

the films and specks, and

divide 'them, pick out

mix the following with

the mass according to your taste

Mace,

in finest

Nutmeg,

Bay

powder

in finest

powder

leaf, in finest

powder

Table

salt,

in finest

Cayenne pepper, in

Dry

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

oz.

powder £

oz.

them

fill

three quarters of an inch of the top with the

down,

set

to within fish,

press

the jars near the door of an oven for

twenty minutes, and when cold

fill

up with

which replenish the next day, and then closely over.

oz.

oz.

small white jars and pots and

closely

oz.

4

powder finest

^ §

.

Keep

tie

olive

oil,

bladder

in a cool dry room.

ESSENCE OF LOBSTERS. Boil six pounds of live lobsters thus into salt tie

Throw them

:

and water and w ith a brush clean them

up the

r

tails,

and pop them

pan of boiling

into a

water, in which a good handful of salt

ounce of saltpetre have been dissolved to cool, take out all the

meat and

well,

;

coral,

and half an set

them

which,

when

then

128 it

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

lms been cleared of the skins, chop up into dice, and

set

it

on the

a clean pan, with a pound and a half

fire in

of bay salt and two quarts of water, and let

Then

twenty minutes.

take out the

it

simmer

pound

fish,

it

in

a mortar with half an ounce of cayenne pepper and the same quantity of finely powdered mace, bring to a nice paste with

put

some

of the water last used,

it

and

again into the pan with the remainder of the

it

water and nearly

your clean glass

so, fill

When cold,

simmer half an hour.

let it

jars with

it,

or

cork them

well and seal them.

ESSENCE OF SHRIMPS.

Put a gallon

of live shrimps into a pan of three

quarts of boiling water, in which a

bay

salt or

rock

sieve,

off the heads,

strain off the water

and while the shrimps are warm pull

which with unsound ones put

one pound of bay minutes, skimming

Pound

half of

has been dissolved, skim them

them ten minutes,

well and boil

through a

salt

pound and

with two quarts of water ten

salt it

Boil

aside.

well,

and

set

by

it

to get cold.

the shrimps in a mortar with their skins to a

paste, using a little of the last water,

and when

it

has

been well worked add the remainder of the water, boiled

and

strained, with this mixture

Bed

sanders, in

powder

...

Cayenne pepper Mace, bruised

Bay

Two

leaf,

shred

.

:

1 oz. -

5

-

oz.

.

.

.

.

^

oz.

.

.

.

.

f

oz.

anchovies, shred

129

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. Pass the pulp through a

sieve, and,

when

cold, bottle

it,

corking and sealing securely.

ESSENCE OF ANCHOVIES. Boil fourteen pounds of

Gorgona

fish for

ten or

twelve minutes with ten quarts of river water, rub the fish

through a

saving the water to again boil any

sieve,

When

of the fish that will not pass. dissolved, strain,

add the water

the bones are

all

to the pulp of the fish

along with

Bay salt Wheaten

1 lb. flour

.

Cayenne pepper

Mushroom Put

it

into bottles,

.

,

.

.

.

.

catsup

1 lb.

i

oz.

\ pint.

which cork and

seal well.

TOMATO PASTE. Scald and peel twenty large fine tomatoes, put them in a stone jar, tie paper over,

Take

oven for an hour.

and leave them

off

in a

warm,

the liquid that floats on

the top and press the fruit through a sieve.

Add

to

every quart of the tomatoes half a pint of good sharp vinegar, and seasoning to your taste with this mixture, viz.

Bay

....

salt

Mace,

in

powder

.

.

Cayenne, in powder Cloves, in

Bay

leaf

powder

.

.... K

.

.

.

6 oz.

.

|

.

.

.

.

oz.

|oz. 1^ oz

130 Put

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF it

into a clean saucepan, stir

it

continually from

the bottom for three hours and until you have got a

smooth nice thick mass, which when cold put into jars and cover well with bladder. It will be found of es-

when tomatoes

sential service in seasoning soups, &c.,

are not to be had.

TOMATO CATSUP. Take twenty fine tomatoes and scatter over them, upon a dish, twelve ounces of table salt, so let them lie

Next

three days.

boil together

Mace, bruised

£ oz. loz.

Cloves, bruised

Black pepper, braised

.

.

Jamaica pepper, bruised

.

.

Long

.

.

pepper, braised

.

.

oz.

^

oz. oz.

.

Gin n e’er

i

oz.

.

f

oz.

.

1 quart

-i

Mustard

Two

i

seed, bruised

.

.

dozen capsicums

Six heads of garlic

One

stick of horseradish, sliced

Best London pickling vinegar

The hour.

boiling

and skimming should continue half an

Peel the

fruit,

an hour longer; the next da}’

;

add them, and boil together half

strain

through a sieve and bottle

cork well and

lent receipt, as will be proved

seal.

by a

should be six months old to attain

This trial. its

is

an excel-

The

prime.

it

catsup

'

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

131

BENGAL CHETNA Sub-acicl apples, pared

and cored

b

lb.

£

lb.

Coarse sugar

^

lb.

Bay

2 oz.

Malaga

raisins,

stoned

salt

Best ginger, powdered

.

.

2 oz.

.

.

Cayenne pepper

2 oz.

Eschalots, minced

1 oz.

Best pickling vinegar, as

Pound

much

as required.

these ingredients well together, adding the

vinegar by degrees until

Let

.

this

remain

six

it

to a

hours covered up.

has risen to the top clear, until the spices

comes

it

smooth pulp. If the vinegar

must be further blended

by well rubbing with some surface of

wood, for example, a potato masher; then add the

whole of bottle

it,

the* vinegar,

pass

through a sieve and

all

corking and sealing well.

AN EXCELLENT FISH SAUCE. Take two dozen genuine

anchovies, neither wipe

nor wash them, and add them to the following Eschalots, peeled

and

sliced

.

.

:

1 dozen

Fresh horseradish, scraped finely

3 tablespoonfuls

Mace, beaten

2 drachms

Cloves, beaten

2 drachms

Two

lemons, sliced

Anchovy

liquor

8 oz.

Rhenish wine

1 quart

Water

1 pint Iv

2

132

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

Boil

all

well,

and afterwards

together until reduced to one quart, skim

cold bottle

and

it,

through a

strain

it

When

sieve.

seal the corks.

A PROVOCATIVE. Black pepper, ground

.

.

2 oz.

Bay

.

.

.

2 oz.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

1 oz.

or rock salt

Ground

allspice

Horseradish, scraped

minced

Eschalots,

W alnut

pickle, or

.

mushroom

catsup

1 quart

Infuse for fourteen days in a gentle heat, strain and

and sealing

bottle for use, corking

FRENCH SAUSAGE

well.

SPICE.

Black pepper, finely powdered

Mace,

finely

powdered

.

Cloves, finely powdered

Nutmeg,

.

J amaica ginger,

finely

5 lb.

.

3 oz.

...

powdered

finely

.

.

.

1^

lb.

H

lb.

powdered

lb.

Coriander seeds, finely powdered

f

lb.

Aniseeds, finely powdered

f

lb.

M ix them thoroughly,

sift,

bottle,

.

.

cork well and

seal.

TO PREPARE SYRUP FOR PRESERVING FRUIT.

The

best

refined

sugar,

clarifying, should invariably

which

will

be used for

require

no

this process

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. but

when

133

inferior qualities are chosen they

prepared in the following manner

pounds of sugar, break

cold spring water

To

clarify six

into large lumps,

it

and

into a preserving pan,

:

must be

upon

porn’

put

five pints of

it

up

in another pint of water beat

;

it

lightly the white of one small egg, but not frothing it

very much, add

it

well with the whole.

when

fire,

scum

rise

to the sugar,

it

the sugar

is

and

stir

it

to

mix

Set the pan over a gentle nearly dissolved, and

without being disturbed

has boiled five minutes, take

it

two minutes, and then skim

it

off

when

;

the

let

the syrup

fire, let it

very clean,

the

stand

let it boil

again, then throw in half a cupful of cold water,

which will bring the remainder of the scum siu’face

;

skim

through a thin

it

until

cloth,

perfectly clear, strain

it is

and

to the

will

it

it

be ready for use, or

for further boiling.

All unripe fruit must be rendered perfectly tender

by gentle

scalding, before

will

not imbibe the sugar

thin

when

it

is first

added

it

is

put into syrup, or

it

and the syrup must be

;

to

it,

and be thickened

afterwards by frequent boiling, or with sugar added, or the fruit will shrivel instead of

and

clear.

A pound

of sugar boiled for ten minutes

in a pint of water will it

becoming plump

make

a very light syrup, but

will gradually thicken if rapidly boiled in

covered pan.

water

will

Two

pounds of sugar

become thick with

little

to

an un-

the pint of

more than half an

hour’s boiling, or with three or four separate boilings

CUEING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

134

of eight or ten minutes each will candy, instead of

if

;

remaining

much reduced

too

it

liquid.

WEST INDIA PRESERVED GREEN GINGER. Take half a dozen middle-sized cucumbers, cut them open lengthwise, take out the seeds, cut off the pulpy part, and soak them three days in strong salt and water, and weighted down submerged. cold water, into a

so as to

he completely

Next, take them out and wash them in

and put them, with plenty of cold water,

pan on the

boiling point, take

and when

fire,

them

off,

pour

it

comes

to the

the water, and

off

add more cold water with a quarter of an ounce of bicarbonate of potash to each quart of water.

them

boil

half an hour, and set

were boiled in set

them

Then

till

to drain

sieve,

in the water they

Then

next day.

on a

by

take

Best cloves, bruised

.

.

.

.

.

Cinnamon, bruised

Bain or

hour,

take out, and

covered with a cloth.

Best ginger, bruised

which

Now

boil

in

soft

water

five minutes,

10

1 oz.

4

...

oz.

oz.

5 pints

then simmer for half an

a closely 'covered pan,

strain

the liquor

through a flannel bag, and add to each pint of

and a quarter pounds of

sifted loaf-sugar,

it

one

making a

syrup, which must be clarified with the white of egg.

Boil

this,

and skim with care

till

no scum

rises.

Peel

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

them

the cucumbers, and cut

135

and

in pieces the size

Simmer two ounces more

shape of a pigeon’s egg.

of bruised ginger, tied in a piece of muslin, in a pint of water,

and add

reduced

till

it

used, 'put

to

a moderate sized teacupful,

to the syrup. it

Take the ginger you

with the syrup and cucumbers into a

Empty

clean pan, and boil for ten minutes.

a clean earthenware jar, and

Next pour

nights.

taking

the

off

first

scum

off if

let

arises

;

ciunbers, boil five minutes longer,

again into the

jar,

and

let

into

stand two days and

the syrup, boil

any

all

it

five minutes,

then add the cu-

and put

stand three days.

all

back

Return

the syrup and the whole of the ginger tied in muslin into the pan,

and

boil until the

syrup adheres to the

Then put in the cucumbers, and boil .a quarter of an horn when return all into the jar, and let remain twenty-four hours uncovered. Then tie wet bladder well- over, and in a month it may be removed into spoon.

1

,

small wide-mouthed

glass

jars

and covered with

bladder, and green paper over that. is

This, as dessert,

an excellent stomachic, assisting digestion in weak

habits.

CURRANTS FOR TARTS.

The

fruit for these purposes

fine days,

should be gathered on

and only the best used for preserves. Press

the juice from the rejected currants, and strain clear.

To each pound

pound

of the best refined sugar,

of fruit

it

you must allow a and make a

fine

•

136

.CURING, SMOKING,

AND PRESERVATION OF

clear syrup of the currant juice it is

cold put in your fruit

tifully clear, jars,

and

let

when you may put

When

and sugar.

it

it

boil until

into pots

beau-

and

glass

covering with brandy paper and wetted bladder.

TOMATOES.

The ripe,

must be taken before

fruit here

and

not having

if

be preferable

;

lost^its

is

it

quite

green hue quite

and for three pounds of

may

fruit take off

the thin yellow rinds of two large lemons, and, squeez-

ing out the juice, strain

Put the

it

and put

it

aside for awhile.

juice with the thin rinds into a clean sauce-

pan, with two or three blades of mace, a few peach leaves

and a dessert-spoonful of ginger

sliced thinly

cover the tomatoes with water barely, and set the pan

on a clear

fire to

simmer half an hour. Then take out

the fruit carefully with a spoon and set them on a

Add

sieve to cool.

to the

water they were simmered

make a thin syrup, which must fruit, when placed in a deep dish, leave them for four or five days.

in sugar sufficient to

be poured over the boiling hot,

and

so

Then pour out the syrup into a pan, and add sugar to make a strong syrup, into which you may put the tomatoes and simmer them gently until the syrup has entered fully into them. the

fire

and

let

Remove them now from

them remain unmolested

or five days longer.

If the syrup has

tained a proper consistence, you boil until

now

may add

you have got the desired end.

for

four

not at-

sugar,

and

Pour now

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. on

tlie fruit

while

make

satisfied,

it is

hot,

and

if

when

safe with bladder

all

and

137

cold

you are

leather,

and

keep in a cool and airy room.

CUCUMBERS. This

an elegant preserve

is

two dozen of the

finest, largest,

and without

bers,

if

seeds.

well managed.

and most

|Cut them

clear

Take

cucum-

into pieces, take

out the very soft part of the insides, put them into a jar

with strong

warm

in a

wash them

salt

and water

to cover

situation until they well,

and

set

them

them, and set them

become yellow.

in a

pan of water, with

plenty of fresh cabbage leaves, on the lid of

Now

fire,

close the

the pan, so that no steam can escape, and sim-

mer them

until of a fine green colour.

If

you have

not yet attained your object, change the water and leaves,

and simmer them again.

fruit, set it

on a sieve to

cool,

and then

water for three or four days,

Put

daily.

into a clean

Then

take out the

into pure cold

changing the water

pan four pounds of the best

refined sugar, with one quart of pure spring water, boil

and slum

it

well.

Then add

the rinds of four

large lemons pared very thin, and three ounces of the best ginger sliced,

Take

then

it

off

and

the

boil all together ten minutes.

fire,

and when

cool put in the

cucumbers, and boil them until they are perfectly clear.

set

If their appearance does not fully satisfy you,

them

aside for forty-eight hours,

and then repeat

the boiling, and putting your cucumbers into your

138

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

and

pots

pour the syrup over them, and secure

glasses,

them from the

air

with bladder and leather, or with

paper over the glasses.

GREEN-GAGE PLUMS.

From largest

a peck of this rich

and most

clear.

Put a handful

into a pan, then a layer

of,

alternate layers, to the end;

water, put

pick out

fruit,

all

the

of vine leaves

the fruit, and so on, in fill

them over a moderate

the vessel

up with

and

them get

fire,

thoroughly hot through, skim them

-well,

let

pour

off

the

Now

water, and put the plums on a sieve to cool.

take off the peels carefully, and, as you proceed, put

them

into the water they

leaves,

and

let

them at a

in,

with fresh

boil three minutes, preventing

the escape of the steam as

Let them remain

were heated

much

as

you possibly can.

moderate distance from the

seven or eight hours, or until they become green

;

fire

then

put them on a sieve to drain, and then boil them up in a good clear syrup once a day, for three successive days.

Then

glasses

and

fire,

and,

take

jars;

when

them up, and place

in clean

dry

skim the syrup thoroughly over the nearly cold, pour

it

over the plums,

put brandy paper upon them, and cover with bladder.

You will

have an elegant and very rich preserve.

PEACHES AND NECTARINES. Before they are fruit,

rub

off

the

ripe,

take the choicest of these

down from them with

soft old linen,

;;

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

and divide the skin knife.

Put them

seam with a sharp pointed

at the

them with

into a clean jar, cover

French brandy, and

let

139

them remain

so for ten days

then take them out, and having ready a fine clear syrup, put the fruit into a

pan with

and

until they are beautifully bright cold, take out the fruit, place

and

fill

it

it,

and

boil

clear.

in glasses

up with the syrup nearly

them

When

and

jars,

Lay brandy

cold.

paper over and cover with bladder.

LEMONS PRESERVED. Take two dozen pare

off

fine lemons,

wipe them

well,

and

Cut out a piece

the yellow rind very thin.

of

the rind at the blossom end, and take out the whole of the pulp and seeds. fine lie

bay

salt,

Iiub the lemons over with

and lay them

in cold water, so let

for a week, quite covered,

and water twenty minutes.

fresh salt

a syrup of one of water,

and then

pound

boil

Now

them

them

in

prepare

of the best loaf sugar to a quart

and well skimmed, and into which put the

lemons, and boil them five or six minutes for four

days successively, then place them in a jar and

them stand with the

w eeks, and all the syrup. Now make a T

six

let

time well covered clear,

thick,

fine

syrup of the best refined sugar and water, put the

lemons into

it,

and

boil

them gently

for ten minutes

then put them away, and in twenty-four hours boil

them again and

clear.

at short intervals, until

Now

lay

them

in jars

they look plump

and

glasses,

and

140

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

pour the syrup over them cold paper and

tie

;

cover with brandy-

bladder over them.

APRICOTS.

Take apricots

two dozen of the

when they

gum and

from

fruit

them

are just fully ripe, wipe

other

filth ;

through the stalk ends

weigh the

and soundest

largest

’with

push

the

clear

out

stones

a blunted piece of wood

now, and for each pound of

apricots,

allow one pound of the best refined sugar, the half of

which,

when reduced

must strew over the

to a

fruit,

twenty-four hours.

Boil

powder and

and

let

them remain

them up

you

sifted,

gently,

so for

and when

they have been cold repeat the boiling four or times, at intervals of three hours,

by which means

Now

they will have become clear and bright.

them up and lay them on a in

it

for five minutes,

and skimming

put the apricots into clear glass syrup over them.

When

cold

jars,

make

writing paper steeped in brandy, and

der over.

They must be

take

and when you

sieve,

have prepared a good clear thick syrup,

up

five

boil the fruit it

well.

Then

and pour the all

tie

stored in a dry,

safe with

wetted blad-

any room.

DAMSONS. Choose the purpose, pick stalks,

and

finest,

large prune

them over

all

carefully,

damsons for

throwing out the

that are the least crushed, cut

open lengthwise, and take out the

this

stones, put

them them

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. into a boil

pan with water

them ten minutes

and when

sufficient to cover

them, and

turn them out upon a sieve,

;

cold, or nearly so,

wipe each separately

To

with some old soft linen or flannel. of the fruit allow one

141

pound

each pound

of the best refined sugar,

you must

the half of which, after being sifted finely,

on large dishes

scatter equally over the damsons,

;

put

the other half of the sugar to the water in which the

was

fruit let

it

scalded, set

up

boil

;

skim

in a

it

it

pan on a

it

to a boil;

then take

stand, closely covered, half an to

simmer

for half

put in the fruit and

;

hour

Now

damsons into a

and

boil the jelly alone full half

any scum that may yet have pots, jars,

them, well heated.

upon the

Make them

all

fruit,

fire,

and

then put

;

boil

tender, put the

your

the

off

it

it is

into

and

let it

again

it

an hour longer, and then put

aside until the next day.

off

fire,

thoroughly, and then simmer

only, for ten or twelve minutes

bring

clear

&c.,

up the

fruit until

sieve while

warm,

an hour, and taking

arisen.

Put the

and pour your

When

it

cold,

jelly

fruit

over

put brandy-paper

and melted mutton suet above

that.

and

store

safe with bladder

in a diy, airy, cool

leather,

and

room.

MORELLO CHERRIES. Pick thoroughly ripe and sound stalks

and wipe them separately

needle in three or four places. fruit allow

;

fruit

prick

from the

them with

To each pound

a of

one pound and a half of the best sugar,

142

CUEING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

ancl strew

cherries

one half of

when

it

upon clean large

finely sifted over the

dishes,

and

Take now

so for twenty-four hours.

them remain

let

as

much

strained

red-currant juice as will effectually dissolve the other half of the sugar, and put rate

fire,

skim

it

When

them.

being careful to not allow

Then remove

syrup until

pan over a mode-

the fruit with their sugar, and

it

five minutes,

to boil.

boil the

to

into a

twelve or fifteen minutes,

let it boil

add

well,

simmer

let all

them

and

it

it is

the cherries into glasses,

thick and pour

cold guard

cool over

it

them with brandy paper,

and paste writing paper neatly cut over the

glasses.

BARBERRIES IN SPRIGS AND BUNCHES. Pick out the clear berries

—reject

much water

as will

and

boil

upon a

them sieve,

pound and

bunches and sprigs of

finest

all

faulty ones

—lay them

Now strain them add a

to every pint of their juice

half of best refined sugar, boil

this thoroughly,

in as

be requisite for making their syrup,

until they are tender.

and

fine ripe

and

to

and skim

each pint of the syrup put half

a pound of the fruit in bunches and boil them very

gently until they become quite bright and clear.

When

cold put

syrup to them.

paper over the

them

into clear glasses

Use brandy

and pour the

paper, and paste writing

glasses.

HAMBURGH GRAPES PRESERVED WHOLE. Pick out some handsome

little

bunches, wipe them

MEATS,

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

FISII,

143

very carefully witli soft old linen moistened with spirits

and water, place them

in a

wide

and allow

jar,

one ounce of white sugar-candy beaten small to each

pound of the grapes, which,

be scattered equally amongst

French brandy, the

safely with bladder

and

up with

Fill the jar

it.

and seeing in two days

best,

afterwards that the fruit

must

as the fruit is placed,

make up away in a

properly covered,

is

leather,

and

store

cool airy room.

GOLDEN PIPPINS Pare two dozen

fine pippins nicely, cut

quarters and take out the cores.

two

fine large oranges in a

and lay them

three days.

Put

strain the juice

Boil the rinds of

in

pure spring water for

these into a pan, just cover

let

them

into

pan of cold water until per-

fectly tender

with water and

them

boil

them

twenty minutes, and

through a jelly-bag; then pare two

dozen more pippins, take out the cores at the stalk

Make now

ends neatly.

a fine clear syrup of two

pounds of the best refined sugar and one pint of water, to

which add the apple

Boil

it

and when

cold put

it is

adding the orange peel cut into thin

in the pippins, chips.

juice,

very gently ten minutes, then take out

the pippins, and

when

the syrup over them.

cool put

them

into jars

and pour

Apply brandy paper, and

bladder over the jars, and leather over that.

Some

adopt the mutton suet melted, with one-eighth of

weight of sweet lard added, which corrects the

tie

its

brittle-

144

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

ness of the suet

and causes

to adhere better to the

it

sides of the jars.

RASPBERRY MARMALADE. Pick fresh ripe raspberries from the

mer them gently about stirred all the time.

ten minutes, keeping

Pour them and

clean hair sieve and rub

it

When

pound

be

sufficient,

it is

Weigh

gradually into

—

pound

of

continue the boil-

time will occasion-

less

but the thickness of the preserve

and the manner in which

show when

stir

of sugar to the

this is quite dissolved

ing for another ten minutes ally

with a

quickly for eight or ten minutes,

three quarters of a

pulp.

it

seeds behind.

then take the pan from the fire and it

them

their juice into a

them through

wooden spoon, leaving only the the fruit and boil

and sim-

stalks

it jellies

on the skimmer

The

boiled enough.

raspberries

will

may

be rubbed through a sieve without the previous simmering, then mixed with their weight of sugar and

Rich strawberry

boiled quickly for twenty minutes.

jam

or

marmalade

is

made

in

same

precisely the

manner.

JAM OF MORELLO CHERRIES. This

is

a delicious preserve

ripe morellos.

Stone the

fruit,

when made with weigh

it,

slowdy to draw out the juice, then boil

twenty minutes over a very clear

fire,

heat it

it

fine

rather

quickly for

add thirteen

ounces of sugar for each pound of the cherries, and boil the

jam from

fifteen to

twenty minutes longer,

:

MEATS,

FISII,

145

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

being careful to clear

off

should be of good quality

it

;

The sugar

the scum.

all

must be beaten

to

pow-

der and added gradually to the fruit, and stirred with the

it off

may

A larger

fire until it is dissolved.

portion

be used when the morellos are very acid.

equal weight with the cherries will not be too for

some

tastes,

served with

An much

but their flavour will be better pre-

less.

A few of the kernels

blanched and

wiped quite dry may be added a couple of minutes before the jam

is

poured out.

RED CABBAGE. RECEIPT FROM HALTON CASTLE. Take two middle-sized

when

close-knit red cabbages, just

the frost has seasoned them, strip

superfluous leaves, cut

them

them

of all

across in slices nearly a

quarter of an inch thick, and scatter finely beaten bay or rock salt over

them when

covered with cloths

Next

;

so let

on large dishes and

laid

them

lie

twenty-four hours.

drain the cabbage on a sieve and let

until the next day,

covered over.

still

jar that will contain

it

Put

it it

into one

without pressure, and strew as

you proceed pretty

plentifully the following

amongst and

upon the cabbage

finally

remain

Allspice, coarsely beaten

Ginger, sliced

.

.

.

.

Black peppercorns

.

.

.

Bay

.

.

.

.

.

.

leaves, shred

Laurel leaves, shred L

1 oz. oz.

1 oz.

\ 4

oz.

oz.

mixture

146 ;

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

Now pour pure cold best London pickling vinegar the jar, and take care that the cabbage

is

perfectly

covered, and to the depth of an inch or more.

up the

jar with a bung,

pitch.

In a month you

ticle of its

and secure

will

its

flavour,

its

Make

with resin or

it

have perhaps the best ar-

kind to be found anywhere,

consisting in

into

and

colour,

its

excellency

crispness.

GREEN SAMPHIRE. Carefully pick out the refuse from a peck of fresh

samphire as soon as you get

it,

or

will

it

Immerse the accepted branches

delay.

be tough by in salt

water strong brine for two days, then take dry with

cloths, place

it

lightly in a pan,

with spring water in which a handful of

an ounce of on the

saltpetre

fire to

it

and

up and

and cover salt

and half

have been dissolved, and put

simmer, taking

it off

moment

the

it

it

that a

thick steam comes upon the surface, and add for every

quart of water used in the mouth of each jar a small teaspoonful of

gum

kino.

Then make

the jars secure

with bladder and keep for use.

CAULIFLOWERS. Purchase for pickling the whitest, entirely free

them

from grub and

into nice branches

on large

dishes,

and over them,

closest,

and

sprigs.

and scatter table let

salt

in

jars,

insect,

and

and pull

Lay them

loosely

generally through

them remain thus

Next place them neatly

soundest,

for three days.

and

porn’ boiling

:

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. water upon them,

tie

and remove them

hours,

when

let

them up with

cold

...

leaves, shred

Laurel

and

to glass jars, filling

the following pickle

Bay

them stand then dry them on a sieve

leather over,

by twelve or fourteen

leaves, shred

1 oz.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

1 oz.

Capsicums, red and green

.

1 oz.

White-wine vinegar

.

3 quarts

Chillies,

147

whole

.

.

.

This must be boiled twenty minutes, and skimmed

Let

quite clear.

olive oil float

the

the top of

at

pickle, in the jars, to the depth of half

an inch. Then

cover with bladder.

WHITE MUSHROOMS. Choose the

smallest, round,

perfect buttons, rub

each separately with a piece of soft old flannel, wetted with a solution of bay

salt,

cleansed after they are

When finely

and

let

them be thoroughly

rubbed. (See note, No. 11).

all

ready put them into a pan with a

all

powdered bay

salt

little

scattered over them,

and

covered so closely that not the least steam can escape, for ten or twelve minutes, or until the water

tracted

from them.

Then

get

is

ex-

them removed, with-

out any delay, on to a sieve, then dry them well with cloths,

and

let

them get

from the action of the pickle,

by

boiling

it

cold, effectually

air.

Make

and skimming L 2

covered up

the following light it

well, and, laying

148

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

your mushrooms in clean glass

pour

jars,

amongst

it

and upon them Mace, whole

.

^

OZ.

.

.

±

oz.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

Capsicums, whole

.

.

.

± 07

.

.

3 ± quarts

.

.

.

.

Eschalots, sliced

.

.

Cloves, whole

.

Chillies,

.

whole

White-wine vinegar

When

the bottles are nearly

olive oil float

filled

.

with the pickle,

let

on the top for an inch in depth, then

make safe with bladder, and keep dry and a month they will be fit for use.

In

cool.

SILVER ONIONS.

many attempts

Select your onions well, for ling

them have been rendered

quality of the

raw

material.

at pick-

by the bad

abortive

They should be

globular

and sound, and have the appearance of being got up and been well dried by the ah and

in dry weather,

sun previous ever, prove

to

The

being stored.

much, and

if

you

peeling

will,

how-

are suspicious of ha-ring

been not well served, do not proceed with them. Peel a peck of nice onions, and, as you proceed,

throw them into plenty of strong let

them remain

and water, and

so for ten or twelve days,

Set them

the pickle every second day. sieve to drain, then put

them a brine

salt

freshly

them

made

into jars

of

bay

changing

now on

a

and pom' on

salt

and water,

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

up

boiling hot, and, covering till

close, let

149

them remain

Repeat the scalding and with fresh

cold.

and when drained thoroughly, put them

pickle,

into

jars

with

Bay

leaves, shred

.

.

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

Best ginger, sliced

.

.

.

1 oz.

Mace, whole

.

.

.

.

i

.

.

Laurel leaves, slued Chillies,

whole

Best vinegar scattered

.

.

.

amongst them, and

Let

cold.

oz.

.

olive oil float

fill

1

oz.

oz.

3 quarts

up with the vinegar

on the top, for nearly an

inch deep, and secure the jars with wetted bladder, and, that dried, soft leather above

all.

For the pre-

servation of the colour, this attention to the exclusion of the air

is

chiefly owing.

These are of

and are much resorted

quality,

first-rate

to in the kitchens of

the wealthy.

PRESERVED WALNUTS. Take

half a

hundred of walnuts

a

little

when they

when punctured with can be perceived. Take a jar that will

are ready for pickling, that

a pin no shell

just

is,

above hold them, deposit in

it

sugar half an inch thick, on this

a layer of coarse-

make a

layer of

walnuts well wiped, and eveiy one sound, then a layer of sugar, jar.

The

and

so

on alternately to near the top of the

allowance of sugar must be half a pound

to every score of nuts.

Tie coarse paper over the

•

150

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

mouth

of the jar

and place

ing water, in which

it

must remain three hours. This

will dissolve the sugar

the fruit

;

in a saucepan of boil-

it

;

the syrup should

now

cover

does not, add some more sugar and

if it

continue the simmering.

When

of the jar with bladder,

and do not disturb them for

six

be.

cold, cover the

mouth

months, for the longer kept the better they will

These

will

in families of dicine.

One

be found of excellent and extensive use

many is

children as a gentle aperient

me-

a dose for a child of five to seven

years old, and so in advancing ratio, and instead of

proving nauseous to young palates, will be regarded as a treat, and, if I

am

not mistaken, adults will oc-

casionally be troubled with constipation.

APPLE MARMALADE Pare and core two pounds of rather acid apples, put them into an enamelled pan with a pint of sweet cider, or

with half a pint of cape wine, and a pound

of crushed good loaf sugar, and cook

a gentle heat three hours.

them slowly by

Squeeze the

through a colander and then through a

sieve.

sweet enough add powdered sugar to your it

fruit first

in small white jars, cover with bladder

taste.

If not

Put

and writing

paper. It will be very nice, and extremely wholesome as supper for the juveniles,

with cream or milk.

and for the aged, eaten

:

151

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

RED CURRANTS. Take currants

for this purpose

just before they

have attained a perfect red colour.

Select the nicest

bunches, which keep separate, and accept no single Boil these with

ones but what are clear and sound. the fruit until the colour of the vinegar

Loaf sugar,

Bay Bay

changed by

sifted

beaten fine

salt,

is

....

leaves, shred

skim

it

well,

and

Now

quite clear.

or palest vinegar

Strain

get cold.

Boil

it

up

oz.

now nicely, much of the

it

and skim

again,

till

place the bunches and detached

and pour the liquor

fruit into glass jars or tumblers,

hot upon them, so as to cover totally

and bladder

lb.

2 quarts

.

in a sieve, to obtain as

colour as possible.

i

i

let it

and press the fruit

lb.

1 oz.

Sal prunelle

White wine,

2

it,

;

then

tie

paper

closelv over. «/

CELERY.

The white

part only

is

used for

this purpose.

Wash

very clean half a dozen fine heads, and wipe them dry.

Cut them

into pieces to

your

taste,

and make

the following pickle

Bay

1 lb.

salt

Best ginger, sliced

.

.

.

Mace Capsicums, red and green Best vinegar

2 oz.

i .

oz.

1 oz.

2 quarts

152

Put

CUEING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF all

these into a deep saucepan, and soon as they

coine to the boiling point, strew in the celery boil again, not

up, pour

it

all

more than two minutes, then take

through a

celery in jars,

let it

;

When

sieve.

cold, place the

and pour the liquor upon

safe with bladder, &c. &c.

extremely useful in

it,

and make

This will be found

families that live well.

all

it

It will

keep good a great length of time, and when the celery

is all

used, the pickle will be highly acceptable

A

in dressing salads, &c.

added where they are not

few small onions may be disliked,

and omitted

at

pleasure.

GRAPES.

The

foreign grapes,

if

got in the beginning of the

importations to this country, for then they are less likely to

be decayed or specked, answer extremely

well for pickling, and are, of course,

than those grown at home. generally chosen

;

but

it

much cheaper

The white

ones are

me that

a mixture

appears to

them makes an agreeable change, as far as the appearance is concerned. Take ten pounds of the largest and soundest you can, and of the purple ones with

divide

into little branches,

straight-sided stone jar,

which place

embedded

in

in vine leaves,

completely cover them -with this mixture

Bay

salt

Sal prunelle

a deep

1 lb.

2 oz.

and

153

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC-

Common

salt

1 lb.

Coarse sugar

6 oz.

Water

6 quarts

Tie leather over the of water on the

jar,

fire,

and

set

and when

it

in a saucepanful

it

has boiled three

quarters of an hour, pour off the liquor, which set aside to be well dregs. close,

skimmed, and poured clean

Return the liquor on

and

let

to the

them

then

by keeping them

this pickle

:

... White-wine vinegar ... Soft or river water

Coarse sugar

Bay

;

well between cloths, not

allowing the air to act upon them

Next make

the

cover up

fruit,

remain so for twenty-four hours

take them up, and dry

covered up.

off

2 quarts

4 quarts

24

leaves, shred

.

Laurel leaves, shred

lb.

.

.

3 oz.

.

.

2 oz.

Boil these ten minutes, slum until quite clear, and let it

Replace the fruit in the

get cold.

jar,

and

fill

up

with the pickle ; you having laid plenty of vine leaves under, and also on the top of the

days more see

if

bung and

any apartment. for six months, so elegant

After two

the jar will hold any more of the

pickle, which, if needful,

secure with

fruit.

You and

resin,

and keep them

will please not to

will

Make

must be added.

then be

and rich a product.

much

all

in a cool

open them

delighted with

154

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF CODLINS.

These must be taken when about the

size of lien-

and none but perfectly sound ones accepted.

eggs,

Wrap them up

singly in vine leaves recently plucked,

and place them

lightly in a saucepan, with plenty of

leaves under, amongst, and above them,

cover them with water. peels begin to start,

Boil

and thoroughly

them slowly

until the

and separate, then carefully take

them up, and drain them on a

When

sieve.

cold,

pare them carefully, and, replacing them in the pan, cover so well that none of the steam can escape, and

continue the simmering until they are of a nice green

Now

colour.

get cold.

take them up, and

Put them

let

them

drain,

and cover the

into little jars,

with white-wine vinegar, put a round of paste-

fruit

board on the top, and pour in melted mutton

Tie bladder over and leather above

them will

and

cool

that,

and keep

and dry for three or four months.

be a good pickle

suet.

They

at a little expense.

BARBERRIES.

These are more useful

as garnishes

than otherwise,

and a great many are annually pickled pose.

Take

pick out

all

half a sieve of fine, high-coloured fruit,

the nice bunches that are sound, and

keep them apart by themselves ones must also

Wash

for that pur-

both in

be had,

salt

;

the best of the single

but put in separate

and water, and

set

them

jars.

to drain.

:

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

Now

take two and a half pounds of bay salt to each

gallon of water, and

running over

to

155

fill

up the

jars

with the mixture,

skim them daily for four or

;

five

and then pour the liquor away, and fill the jars again with a similar mixture of salt and water, adddays,

ing half a pint of the strongest pickling vinegar. Let

merely steam over the

it

let

finely green, then take

and

crisp it

until

fire,

cool,

it

it

has become

off quickly,

and

drain off the liquor, and put the fruit

along with a light scattering of the following mixture into a jar, and cover

it

well with the liquor

Mace, beaten roughly

.

.

oz.

Nutmeg,

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

1 oz.

Bay

sliced

.

leaves, shred

Saltpetre

fr

oz.

Close the jar with a bung and secure that with resin.

In a month

it

will

be ready for

table.

ASPARAGUS.

Take two hundred grown, take

of fresh cut asparagus, fully

the root ends so high up as to leave

off

the remaining parts tender, and wash the green tops in

cold water, slightly tasted with

them

into fresh water,

about two hours.

with as

much

let

then remove

them remain

Put them next

in

it

into a shallow

for

pan

cold spring water as will just cover

them, and putting so that the

and

salt,

it

moment

on the

fire,

watch them

closely,

the water comes to the boiling

15G

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

point you will remove

out the

from the

it

and taking

fire,

asparagus heads very carefully,

break, lay

them on a

sieve to get cold, being covered

Place them

over with cloths.

they

lest

now

in jars

and pour

upon them a pickle made of

White pepper

...

.

\ oz. 1^ oz.

Nutmeg Mace Bay salt

i

1 ^ oz.

White-wine vinegar boiled ten minutes or more,

used hot.

and pour over

and

jars,

when you hot.

let

to

be

them

boil the

will

When

bungs and

jars securely with

4 quarts

.

and well skimmed,

or six days,

five

pickle again,

up the

.

Tie leather over the

remain for

oz.

cold

make

leather.

GHERKINS.

From

you may probably pick two hundred that

kets suit

out of three hundred gherkins of the mar-

your purpose, and they should be

same

size ;

or river water, if

them

lie

and

one gallon of soft

them remain

in if

it

for three

large.

Let

on a sieve to drain, and wipe them carefully

and place them

objectionable on

make

let

salt to

they run small, or four hours

quite dry, is

nearly of the

put them into a pickle made of two pounds

and a half of common table hours

all

will

a pickle of

many

in stone jars

—glazed

accounts for pickles.

ware

Next

;

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC,

157

Cloves

Mace Allspice

Two

1 oz.

nutmegs, sliced

White mustard seed

.

1 oz.

.

8 oz.

A stick of horseradish Bay

salt

White-wine vinegar

by boiling them

when and

cold pour

qm

over the gherkins, cover up closely,

them remain

let

4

minutes and skimming clear

fifteen it

.

so for twenty-four hours.

put the whole contents into a saucepan, and

simmer

until they

let

Then them

have acquired a bright green colour,

then place them not too closely in

jars,

and pour the

They must be totally covered with pickle, or more must he made for that purpose if you intend them to keep well and a liquor

with the spices over them.

Cover your

long time.

with wetted bladder, and

jars

soft leather over that.

PICCALILLI.

Take two

perfectly fresh closely

grown white cab-

bages, in preference to one large one, they quite slices,

sound

at

cut

;

them

crosswise

in

and then take a thorough grown white beet-

root cut also the

into

the hearts

must be

many

and twenty

same way

small sprigs

;

;

divide a nice cauliflower

some

clear green radish pods,

of the smallest gherkins.

Place these apart

1T)8

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

from

eacli other

common

table

and strew three or four handfuls of salt over them. Expose these to the

action of the sun

you

days, or until

if possible,

or of a slow fire four

see that

the moisture has been

all

drawn from them. Then put all into a large stoneware jar, and scatter over and amongst them two handfuls of sound bright mustard seed as you are packing them down. Now boil together Garlic,

minced

.

.

.

.

3

Eschalots, minced

.

.

.

1 oz.

Bay

salt

1 oz.

Turmeric

2 oz.

Best pickling vinegar

Skim

it

well,

vegetables,

oz.

.

.

1 gallon

and while boiling hot pour

and

let

them stand

leather, near the fire, until they

it

upon the

closely covered with

have become of a nice

yellow colour and saturated with the acid.

make

the following pickle

:

.... ....

Mace, bruised Cloves, bruised

Jamaica pepper, bruised

Nutmeg,

Best vinegar

well,

boil fifteen to

and when cold add

.

.... ....

sliced

White pepper

Let these

Then

1 oz. 1 oz.

i

oz.

i

oz.

2

oz.

1

quart

twenty minutes, skimming

it

to the pickles.

jar safe with bladder

and

pickle requires three

months

tie

Make

leather over that. at least to

the

This

become su-

:

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. perior,

and that the

different flavours

may

159

be assimi-

lated.

LEMON MANGOES. Take a couple

large thick-skinned

of dozen of

lemons, cut off a piece from the blossom end of each, leaving a bare surface the size of a shilling, scoop out

them

the whole of the insides, wash entirely freeing

them

in a brine of a

water.

of loose pulp,

pound of bay

Rouse them about

brine on the third day, and

Now

three days longer.

and

fill

them with

this

and immerse them

salt to

the gallon of

change the

occasionally,

them remain

let

drain and wipe

so pickled

them

Horseradish, scraped fine

.

1 oz.

Mustard

.

.

2

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

1 oz.

seed, bruised

Eschalots, minced Chillies,

Stitch the pieces

minced

.

which you cut

correspondents,

together in a stone

jar,

Table

on to their respec-

off

closely

and pour upon them, boiling :

Best pickling vinegar juice

oz.

neatly place the fruit

hot, the following pickle

The

dry,

mixture

Ginger, sliced thin.

tive

in cold water,

.

.

2 quarts

from the lemons 2 tablespoonfuls

salt

White peppercorns, bruised Ginger, bruised

Mace, bruised

.... ....

1 oz. 1 oz.

1 oz.

160

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

The lemon

must have been

juice

strained,

and the

vinegar put upon the pulp for half an hour, and then

through a fine

also passed

The mangoes must

sieve.

he well covered by the pickle, and as some sorbed,

them remain

desirable to let

it is

just

tempo-

with paper for three days and then

rarily covered

up with the

be ab-

will

pickle.

These

be very fine in four

will

or five months, but for present

could not be recommended.

fill

consumption they

Put bladder

safely over

the jars and cover with leather.

LEMON PICKLE.

Pub

off

twenty

fine

from the lies

with a fine tin grater the yellow rind of large fresh lemons,

recently unpacked

chest, without disturbing the white part that

underneath

;

next take the white part

off

with a

sharp knife, and divide the fruit into two parts in the middle, and then again divide these pieces into

which

will

thick.

be each about an inch and three quarters

Pub

powder, and

these thoroughly with set

until the juice in a jar

slices,

is

them on a

bay

salt in fine

dish to dry in a cool oven

completely taken up

;

put them then

and pour upon them a pickle of the following

ingredients, viz.

Mace,

in fine

powder

Cloves, in fine powder

Nutmeg, Garlic,

in fine

minced

Mustard

If

.

oz.

.

.

1 oz.

powder

.

2 oz.'

....

seed, crushed

.

.

1 oz. 1 pint

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

161

enclosed in a piece of muslin rag and boiled ten mi-

Make

nutes with four quarts of white-wine vinegar.

up the

jar close with a bung, if

put

on a hob by a

it

it

will

admit of

Now

perfectly covered with pickle,

is

see that

and secure

the vessel with bladder and leather, and set six

it

by for

months, by which time the bitter taste will be

sipated.

thus

It

Timn

:

must next be bottled for

the pickle and fruit into a hair sieve and

next day pour the clear

muslin strainer into

still

may

and the

dis-

store, effected

press the liquor out into a large jug or jar,

well

and

fireside for ten days, agitating

the contents three or four times daily.

the fruit

it,

air

off

bottles,

from the

lees

and on the through a

which should be corked

excluded by sealing wax.

You

will

have remaining some sediment, upon which you put half a pint of boiling rough cider or light

vinegar, for an inferior lemon pickle, to be kept apart

from your

best.

made, and

it is

Better than the

an estimable

first

product

is

rarely

pickle, generally admitted.

MANGOES.

An

excellent imitation

trous person

who

cucumbers for as they better,

colour.

may

be made by any dex-

wishes to excel in this branch.

this pickling

have attained

full

must be gathered

The

as soon

growth, and the larger the

but they must not be ripe or of a light yellow

Cut out a piece from the

side of each

and

put them aside, take out nicely the seeds, and put both the cucumbers and the pieces which were taken from

M

162

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

them

into a pickle of

two pounds of

a gallon of

salt to

water, with half an ounce of saltpetre and one ounce of sal prunelle, so let

come

until they

them

ten or twelve days, and

lie

to a yellow colour

then put them in

;

a pan with alternate layers of vine leaves, and solve half an ounce of

pickled in,

upon a

fire

pom

it

alum

in the brine they

upon them

not too brisk, and

in the pan, let

dis-

were

which

set

the cucumbers be

subjected to a scalding process for about four hours,

being attentive

all

the time that the pickle does not

reach the boiling point. nice green colour.

They should now be

of a

Set them on a sieve to drain, and

then insert into each cucumber

One

stick of fresh horseradish

Mustard seed

.

.

.

.

^

oz.

^

oz.

Foui’ cloves of garlic

Peppercorns

Replace the pieces of the fruit you cut attach

them by a needle and green

the following pickle,

by boiling

for ten

White-wine vinegar Black peppercorns

Mustard seed

.

silk.

.

out,

and

Make

then

minutes

.

6^ qts

.

3

....

oz.

6 oz.

Garlic

.

2 oz.

Shalots

.

1 oz.

Mace

.

1^- oz.

Cloves

.

2 oz.

.

3 oz.

Long pepper

....

:

:

Lay

the

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

163

mangoes

and

in a deep straight-sided jar,

pour the pickle when cold upon them, covering completely,

and an inch above

at least,

These

with bladder and leather. or four

months

at least before

make

then

secure

will require three

for use.

fit

GREEN WALNUTS. Get a hundred of are yet tender, rately,

fine large

walnuts while the shells

wrap them up

in vine leaves sepa-

put them into jars along with plenty more

vine leaves, and so that they cannot suffer by contact

with each other, and cover plentifully with the best light- coloured

vinegar;

them remain

make

secure from the

Now

and

let

off

the vinegar, wrap up again the fruit in

vine leaves, and this

fill

so for three weeks.

air,

pour fresh

the jars with vinegar as before,

must be continued two weeks longer, when you

may make

take

off

the leaves, put the fruit into jars, and

them

the following pickle for

Pale vinegar, with enough salt in it to float

Garlic,

minced

an egg

3 quarts Wh

ON

.

.

Cloves, bruised

.

.

.

.

2 oz.

Mace, bruised

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

Allspice, bruised

.

.

.

.

1^- oz.

.

2 oz.

Nutmeg, bruised Let these simmer

minutes,

fifteen

whole, boiling hot, over the walnuts

M

2

;

and pour the tie

bladder and

164

curing, Smoking, and preservation of

leather over the jars,

and keep four months before

breaking in upon them.

WALNUTS PICKLED WHITE. Bespeak a hundred of the largest walnuts

when they

will suit

their being peeled

the kernels

;

down

you get them

in

boiled at

with a this ten

overhead,

it,

all

done, keep

and

fire,

salt

Next

just as

it

which must not be

only simmered, for about ten or twelve

Then

minutes.

interior,

the brine four hours.

to boil, lay in the fruit,

all,

into

and when

peeled,

put a pan of pure water over the

coming

to admit of

very white

to the

and pop your walnuts

them well covered

is

is,

have ready a brine of one pound of

to the gallon, as

your purpose, that

just

them

transfer

amount

trifling

to a

of salt in

pan it

;

of cold water,

after being in

minutes, take them out, and remove them

two and a half pounds of

into a pickle of

gallon, in this let

immersed

them be kept

salt to

the

half an hour, totally

in the pickle to protect the colour.

Next

take them out, and lay them between cloths to dry

each nut then must be wiped separately,

and put

into clean white earthenware jars, with this mixture

Mace, bruised

.

Cloves, bruised

.

White

Bay

Laurel

.

.

.

.

.

2 oz.

.

.

2 oz.

pepper, bruised

leaves, shred leaves, shred

1^- oz.

.

.

.

I-*

.

10)1-

ON

1 oz.

MEATS,

—

GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

FISII,

scattered pretty plentifully throughout them.

up your

jars with best white-wine vinegar,

them from the

165 Fill

and secure

with bladder and leather.

air

PEACHES AND NECTARINES.

The to

fruit should

be gathered just as

and needs

ripen,

to

it is

beginning

be perfectly sound, as any

bruised or decaying ones would most likely spoil the whole, and, what till

is

worse, the loss

pounds to size

lay

Let them

a long time after.

with a pickle of bay

lie

covered over

and water, one and a half

salt

;

take them out and, wiping them separately, in jars,

and pour over them, when

cold, this

:

Mace, beaten

fine

.

Cloves, beaten fine

Nutmeg, beaten Garlic,

.

fine

Ginger, sliced

minced

must be boiled

fifteen

.

^

oz. oz.

.

.

.

.

^

oz.

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

.

|oz.

.

.

White-wine vinegar O It

not discoverable

to the gallon, for three or four days, according

them

pickle

is

1 gallo

minutes and slummed well.

Fill the jars so as to cover the fruit completely

the pickle.

them

Tie bladder and leather over, and keep

eight or nine months.

and choice

a

They

will

be very rich

pickles.

GOLDEN From

with

basketful

of

PIPPINS. this

ripe

fruit

pick

out

1G6

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

twenty of the largest and

clearest, lay

them

in a

stewpan, and, covering them with soft water, set them

on a to

and

fire

let

them simmer

until the peels begin

—they must on no account

be separated from them

come peel

to the boil.

them

If tender, set

carefully, then lay

them

go

to

them again

cold,

and

in the water,

adding nearly a pint of good sharp vinegar, and continue the simmering until they become a nice green colour. singly,

Now, with a wooden spoon take them out and let them go cold, and make the following

pickle, boiling

it

and skimming

arises, for fifteen or

as long as

twenty minutes

Best ginger, bruised

Mustard

H

.

seed, bruised

Garlic, sliced

oz.

.

.

2 oz.

....

.

|

oz.

|

oz.

Mace, braised Cloves, bruised

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

White-wine vinegar

Put the

any scum

H

oz.

2 quarts

.

fruit carefully into jars, not crushing

and pour the exclude the

pickle, cold,

air

upon them, and

them,

effectually

with bladder and leather.

NASTURTIUMS.

About ten days plants

is

after the blossoms

left

the

the proper time to take these for pickling,

and they should be immediately put fore they

have

become

shrivelled.

into process, be-

Immerse

half a peck of

the clearest and soundest in a pan of cold salt and

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. water,

and

let

them remain

a sieve, and then dry

make a

changing the pickle

thus,

Lay them

every morning, for three days.

167

them well between

to drain

cloths

pickle of the following ingredients

;

on

and

:

Six eschalots, minced

White peppercorns

.

2 oz.

Mace, bruised

.

.

.

.

1-^ oz.

Nutmeg,

sliced

.

.

.

.

1^- oz.

Common

table salt

.

.

.

6 oz.

White-wine vinegar

Skim

.

this well, boiling

jars with the fruit,

.

5 pints

.

fifteen minutes, and, filling

it

pour the liquor and spices equally

upon them, when about new milk warm, and bladder over the

tie

jars.

BEET-ROOTS. Pickled beet-roots- which have both fine colour and flavour to

recommend them

are seldom to be

with, particularly in the provinces. is tried, it

will

If this

met

method

most certainly recommend them. Take

half a dozen roots of

the

deepest blood-red colour,

put them into a pail of cold water, and with a soft brush scour and wash them well, and without breaking the skin in the of boiling water, der,

least.

and

let

Put them

them

into a saucepan

boil gently until ten-

and no longer, then take them up, wipe dry, and

leave nicely,

them

until

the

and cut them

next day.

Now

peel

them

across in slices a quarter of an

•

108

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

inch thick, not using the extremities. the

slices

figures,

into

ornamental

various

and lay them

You may

and grotesque

open-mouthed

in

cut

and make

jars,

the following pickle

Mace Cloves, bruised

.

.

.

.

2

Peppercorns

.

.

.

.

2 oz.

.

.

.

4'

.

.

.

2 oz.

Horseradish, sliced

.

.

.

1 oz.

Best vinegar

.

.

.

i gallon

Bay

salt,

.

pounded

Ginger, sliced

.

.

.

oz.

oz.

Boil these ten or fifteen minutes, skimming well, and,

when

cold,

pom’ over the

day what pickle

roots.

may have been

Replenish the next absorbed, and cover

the jars with bladder and .leather.

ready in a month, and

is

This pickle

very good.

It

is

makes a

beautiful garnish with fish at dinner, &c. &c.

BUTTON MUSHROOMS, FOR Pick out expressly for

this

PIES

AND SAUCES.

purpose a couple of

quarts of fresh gathered button mushrooms, cut the stalks out closely,

and wipe them singly with a piece

of soft flannel dipped in moistened

them apart on salt

dishes

amongst them.

and

scatter a

Put them

bay

little

into a

salt,

place

finely beaten

roomy saucepan

along with

Mace,

slightly bruised

White peppercorns,

slightly bruised

^

oz.

f oz.

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

Bay

169

leaves, shred

Cloves, bruised

and is

let

them simmer gently and

taken up.

cooled a

little

Take add

pan from the

tlie

to

until all their juice

them four

fire,

and when good

or five glasses of

white wine, agitate the mushrooms in the pan, replace it

on the

fire

and bring

one minute,

to the boil for

it

then add three pints of the best pale vinegar and boil

Now

for ten minutes slowly.

put the mushrooms into

and perfectly

glass or stone jars that are clean

dry,

and when cold make secure with corks or bladder,

and keep them mable

pickle,

cooks,

who

This

in a dry cool room.

and

best

its

ways

in

may

be made available.

usefulness

esti-

and the various

which both the mushrooms and

old Madeira, and the

an

be appreciated duly by lady-

will

know

is

their pickle

The wine should be good quantity may be increased with

great advantage.

GREEN PARSLEY. Take

fresh green curled parsley just at maturity,

pick out the most handsome sprigs and put salt

and water strong enough

remain so for sieve,

of the

five or six

days

to float ;

and then immerse them

same strength

brine twice.

Then

set

them

when

to drain

let

on a

in another fresh pickle

them

into pure cold spring water for

the water daily, and

into

an egg, and

for ten days longer,

drain

them

changing the

again, and put

them

two days, changing

again drained scald

them

170

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

in boiling

water until they are of a nice green, and

dry them between soft

Make,

cloths.

then, the follow-

ing pickle of

Mace

oz.

|

Nutmeg,

sliced

Eschalots,

.

minced

Horseradish, sliced

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

2 oz.

.

.

3 pints

White-wine vinegar

which must be boiled ten or twelve minutes and well skimmed. Put the parsley branches lightly into jars

and

porn' the pickle over, covering well.

up again

Fill

with pickle the next day, and cover that again with

pure olive abouts. that,

oil

to the thickness of

Cover

when

an inch or there-

and over

close with wetted bladder,

dried, with soft leather,

and keep

in a dry

airy room.

WALNUT CATSUP.

When

walnuts have attained maturity, and are

being deprived of the outside green fruiterers, take half a

into a jar,

as

much

pickling vinegar as will quite cover let

them remain three

press out the liquor of

it

by the

peck of these husks, put them

and pom* on them

the jar, and so

shells

upon a

sieve,

and

cold strong

bung up months. Then

them to

;

every gallon

take

Cloves

1 oz.

Mace

|

oz.

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC.

Ginger

l-£ oz.

Jamaica pepper

.

.

1^

.

.

Black pepper Garlic

lees

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

li quart

Anchovies

let

all

these boil

8 oz.

up the

liquor of the walnuts,

and

them simmer twenty minutes, slamming well the

whole time, then put it

oz.

1 oz.

....

Port wine

With

171

it

aside for

two days and

When

again until reduced one-thud part.

you may put with wax.

it

cold,

which cork well and

seal

be an excellent catsup, and

will

in bottles,

It will

boil

be greatly improved by long keeping.

MUSHROOM CATSUP. Throw

mushrooms

large black flap

and crush them with the hands large handful of

common

salt to

well,

into a vessel,

throwing in a

each peck, and

let

Then put them into a crock of earthenware, and let them be macerated in a cool baker’s oven for six hours or so, and, when cold, them

so lie for

two days.

press out the juice,

which

each gallon of the liquor

Mace J amaica pepper

boil

with the following, to

:

i .

.

.

.

oz.

1 oz.

Black pepper

1 oz.

Cloves

1-^ oz.

Ginger

1 oz.

172

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF Garlic

Bay

.

salt

.

.

.

.

1 oz.

.

.

.

.

9 oz.

The simmering and skimming must he continued long as any

filth

rises,

and

let it

as

then be put away

day or two, and boiled up again, being kept well up to the boiling point until reduced to half its for a

When

original quantity. bottles

cold

may

it

be put into

and firmly corked and waxed.

TOMATO CATSUP.

When

tomatoes are fully ripe take two dozen of

fine, large,

sound ones, put them into

until they are tender

;

strain off the water

and pass the pulp through a

pound

jars

sieve,

and bake

from them,

then add to every

of the pulp,

Eschalots, shred

1 oz.

Garlic, shred

A

oz.

£

oz.

Bay salt White pepper, finely powdered Chili vinegar

Boil

them together

pass

it

until the

whole

again through a sieve.

is

Now,

.

\ oz. 1 pint quite soft,

to every

and

pound

of the pulp add the juice of two lemons, and one large Seville orange, boil

it

again until

consistence of thick cream, and

cork and seal well.

it

has attained the

when

cold bottle

it

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. CELERY','

CRAB SALAD. i

Open and wash thoroughly celery, to

173

wipe dry, and cut

clean a fine head of

across into a basin,

it

two ounces of some good rich old cheese

it

a teaspoonful

thinly,

of mustard

a tablespoonful

table,

mixed

of best olive

add

sliced

as for the

the same

oil,

quantity of vinegar, with pepper and salt to your

Mix

taste.

all

well together.

J ELDER-ELOWER VINEGAR. Pick out flowers

all

the stalks from a peck of fresh elder

and put them into a

vessel with

two gallons of

white-wine vinegar, set them under the influence of bright sunbeams for fourteen days and upwards, or at

a short distance from a continuous the vinegar through a

new

fire,

flannel

which must be well corked and

and then

bag

;

fill

filter

bottles,

sealed.

TARRAGON VINEGAR. Take

the leaves of tarragon just before

it

blossoms,

put a pound of them to three quarts of the best white-

wine vinegar in a stone teen days.

bag

;

Then

drain

jar, it

and

and

let

strain

them infuse

six-

through a flannel

add for every two gallons a quarter of an ounce

of isinglass dissolved in sherry wine,

and

let it

tated briskly in a large stone bottle two days.

be agi-

Leave

174 it

CURING, SMOKING, AND PRESERVATION OF

a month to get

glass bottles,

fine,

then draw

it off

which cork well and

into clean dry

seal.

WHITE-GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR. Vinegars should he made at home

upon

you wish

if

to

This will be superior to any u white-wine vinegar, so called at the shops,” and as rely

their quality.

such will be extremely serviceable in blishments and families. colour

Choose

you can get when

wooden mallet

To

Then

stir

....

and add

1 tablespoonful

.

1 tablespoonful

for three or four days, then put

sweet barrel of convenient

size,

and

stop

it

A PARIS RECEIPT.

d’ ORGEAT,

This elegant syrup

is

made

thus

Sweet almonds Bitter almonds

.

.

.

.

....

20

oz.

8 oz.

it

into a

down

twelve months.

SYRUP

for

1 lb.

Treacle

work

them well

strain off the liquor

Yeast, thick and fresh

it

every peck of

:

Loaf sugar

Let

with a

it

them ferment three weeks, repeating

the stirring daily. for every gallon

mash

fully ripe,

or potato beetle.

let

large esta-

fruit of the lightest

the fruit put two gallons of water,

an hour and

all

for

175

MEATS, FISH, GAME, POULTRY, ETC. Refined sugar

.

.

9 lb.

.

.

Water

4 pints

Blanch the almonds, dry them perfectly and pound in a mortar with the sugar, adding gradually

them two

water

the

of

thirds

and wash the almonds on the mainder of the water, and strained liquor

strainer with the re-

by a gentle

Pom' the syrup

heat.

remove the scum, and,

nearly cold, add two ounces of orange-flower

water.

and

linen,

dissolve the sugar in the

into an earthenware vessel,

when

through

strain

;

Put

it

into clean clear glass bottles, cork well,

seal effectually.

AN EXCELLENT CURRl^-POWDER. Turmeric

.

.

.

.

2 oz.

Coriander seeds

.

.

.

.

6 oz.

Ginger

•

•

•

•

|oz.

.

Cinnamon

.

.

.

.

.

2 drachms

Cayenne pepper

,

.

.

.

6 drachms

Black pepper

.

.

.

.

\

oz.

.

.

.

.

1

drachm

F enugreek

.

.

.

.

Pimento

.

.

.

.

Mace

Cloves

Nutmeg Pound

.

.

all

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

•

•

•

•

the above separately in

thoroughly for twenty minutes, then

pound the

returns, which,

when

1^

oz.

2 drachms

\

oz.

a mortar, mix sift

and again

in finest powder,

mix

CURING, SMOKING, ETC.

176 with bulk

Some

;

put into dry bottles, cork them well and seal.

persons prefer more turmeric and less coriander.

Others add two ounces of the best (scorched).

Others, half an ounce of cardamoms or

two ounces of cummin.

The

colour should be light

—brown, not bright yellow.

yellow

Durham mustard

NOTES. It has been incontestably proved by Baron Liebig and other Professors of Chemistry, that the albumen and gelathe

constitute

tine

leading

different kinds of flesh

and

nutritive fish

used as food

arrived at the conclusion, that any deprives

them

ingredients

mode

and I have

;

of curing

of these valuable properties,

facts in science

in the

which

opposed to

is

and to common- sense, and cannot therefore

be tolerated.

On

the nutritive properties of animal food, Professor

Brande writes

:

“

washed repeatedly

When

the muscular parts of animals are

in cold water, the fibrinous matter

remains, consists chiefly of albumen, and

is,

which

in its chemical

properties, analogous to the clot of blood.”

In mutton, the albumen or

twenty-two per

cent.,

fibrin

amounts to

as

much

and of gelatine to seven per

as

cent.,

giving a total of twenty-nine per cent, of nutritive matter.

In

beef, the

albumen

is

twenty, and the gelatine six per

twenty-six per cent of nutritive

cent., yielding a total of

matter.

When

a piece of meat

is

covered with

in brine, the salt penetrates the

whole

salt,

;

the salts of potass contained in

it,

it

potass

is

it is

has been cured

;

and

mix with the

are exchanged

and superseded by those of soda, derived from which

immersed

fibre of the flesh,

the juices contained within are drawn out, and brine

or

the salt

with

now, as a constant supply of

required in the system to renew the muscular fibre,

quite clear that the

want of

some derangement of the health

N

it

;

must be attended with and hence the benefit

178

NOTES.

derived from the taking of vegetables, which by supplying

make up for the want of this alkali in the meat. Albumen is coagulated by heat, and is drawn out by cold

potass,

water; this fact

No.

referred to in Note, No. 11.

The coating of small

1.

excludes the

It is a

air.

when

applied

is

hot,

articles, of

the better sorts,

mixture of gelatine with

and which when exposed

comes hardened, yet

elastic

treacle,

to the air be-

as india-rubber.

See Note,

No. 12.

No.

The smoking with

2.

different sorts of fuel exerts

a

considerable influence on the flavour and preservation of

the articles so treated

Ardennes

for example, the

;

Belgium, which owes

forest,

juniper bushes with which again,

it

is

its

mutton of the

superiority to the

And

dried and smoked.

kippered salmon smoked with cedar-wood, at the

request of some of our wealthy

Jew

families, is excellent,

though rather expensive. No. since,

The

3.

and

spicing of bacon

was adopted some years

chiefly in Ireland, to hide the inferior quality of

the meat.

No.

Bay

4.

from using

it,

fish,

but the

of commerce, and

Common

success.

cured with

No.

it

You may,

is

equal in

is

indeed,

all

I have long used

salt leaves

a

bitter

after being long kept.

There

5.

to

except in small quantities.

mineral salt of Cheshire, salt

common salt for expense deters many persons

far preferable

salt is

curing meats and

no remedy cut

them

for

into

The

rock, or

respects to the bay it

with the greatest

smatch on

all

food

See Note, No. 12. over-salted provisions. slices

and lay them

in

water, but this only affects the outsides of large pieces, as

hams, &c. salted, I

If I

had a ham that I suspected of being over

should put

it

in an old bag,

garden for a week or more, according to

and bury size.

it

in

my

179

NOTES. No.

Kubbing large

6.

fusion of

common

the blood,” as

it

salt, is

joints of

and

letting

termed,

meat over witli a prothem lie, to “ draw out

contrary to

is

reason, for

all

away goes tbe chief part of the flavour and nutriment. No.

Sprats are so different in their animal construc-

7.

tion as to be easily detected from genuine fish

The Armenian

anchovies.

bole,

often

— Gorgona

made use

of to

colour the sauce, has very properly been exposed and con-

demned. No. it

Pure

8.

meat and

olive oil will preserve

has been cured, for a long time

but

;

oils

fish, after

drawn from

lard and other spurious imitations, will not fail to hasten then’ decay.

The

oil

should never be heated, when used

for this purpose.

No.

9.

Subjecting meats to a water-bath

resorted to.

I was

shown a

is

not to be

specification previous to the

taking out of a patent (in France, by a French gentleman) to cure the

more expensive

sorts of fish.

The

first

part of

the process proposed, was subjecting the fish to a waterbath, first for three hours, and, changing the water, then to

two hours further immersion in entered I

my

am sme

flavour

warm

water.

I,

of course,

protest against such unreasonable treatment.

I could not conjecture

and nutriment

No. 10. Meats

what became

of both

after so long immersion.

to be boiled,

and particularly

fish,

must

be put into boiling water, and after being kept up to the boiling point fifteen minutes or so, let

them only simmer

until done.

No. 11. The albumen

is

drawn out from both meat,

and vegetables by cold water

;

fish,

how, then, can we reconcile

ourselves with the foolish old practice of laying the heads, for instance,

them

and other parts, in

for hours

pails of water,

and leaving

in that state, to lose all their goodness.

Vegetables for pickling, too, are often treated in this way f

180

NOTES.

Lying

cannot possibly clean anything.

and hang up to dry,

well,

No is

in water

very effective coating for small cured articles thus To four pounds of hard, compact gelatine,

made

:

add as much

soft or rain-water as will just cover

the water

all

is

to the action of heat in a water-bath,

be quickly dissolved. is

perceived to

pounds of

Take rise,

it

it

and well

it

it

will

soon as the

three and a half

previously

made

been

Stir the composition well together while

the water-bath over the

After

and

has stood

absorbed, submit

off the fire as

has

it

it,

and the gelatine

and mix with

molasses, which

thoroughly hot. in

When

about occasionally for six hours.

twenty-four hours, and

froth

Wash

reasonable.

A

12.

stir it

more

is

fire,

not suffering

it

to boil.

has been thus subjected to heat for half an hour, stirred all the time, it should be taken off the fire

and allowed

to cool a little

be applied to the

it is

;

now ready

may

over with the composition

For larger

and to

food with a soft brush.

article of

in a current of air to harden quickly.

sometimes.

for use,

A

Set

it

second paying-

be done with advantage

articles, as

hams, &c. &c., the

best

transparent glue

may be used

instead of gelatine, adding to

the composition,

when a

cooled, a few drops of essence

of

little

nutmegs or pimento.

If

when

cold the coating

is

found

to be not firm enough, the proportion of gelatine or glue

must be

slightly increased,

and when, on the contrary,

too brittle, the quantity of molasses

may be

increased.

No. 13. For the accommodation of parties residing distance, peat or bog-earth, rock salt

mines, charcoal, &c. &c., use,

may

at a

from the Cheshire

be had, ready for immediate

on application to Mr. Robinson, provision

corn, Cheshire,

it is

and on very moderate terms.

curer,

Run-

INDEX. PAGE 55 59 . Gorgona, to feed . 59 63 Gorgona, smoked . 129 essence of . Apparatus for drying, smok-

Aberdeen

red herrings . Anchovies, British

.

.

— — —

.

ing,

&c

1

Asparagus, pickled

.

.

Bacon, choice breakfast

—

.

Leicestershire spiced

Barberries pickled

.

Bath chaps Beef as hare, potted Beefs heart, potted Bee£ hung, Shropshire Melton hunt Beefs heart, smoked .

.

Dutch

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

. .

.

.

.

.

.

13

.

15

Catsup, tomato

— —

.

Bucaned beef kidneys

.

.

.

.

.

.

19

.

77

.

1

.

80

.

81

.

.

.

.

.

82 83

.

walnut

,

.

Cauliflowers, pickled

Caviare brown white . Cavis of mackerel

—

.

.

.

. .

.

PAGE 145

.

130

.

170

.146

.

Caveach herrings

,

,171

.

.

74

,70

..71

.72-

.

Celery, pickled . 151 . . . crab salad , .173 . 4 Charcoal, preservative quality 131 Chetna, Bengal . . . Coating composition, to make 180 to apply 180 Codlins, pickled .154 . Coated turbot fins 60 . river eels . .

—

—

.

— — conger — young pig Collared salmon — side of venison — young pig eels

.

.

.

. .

.

.

preserved for tarts Curry powder, excellent

Dried Mutton,

—

as

43

.

109

.

112

.

.151 . .

nison

.

.

.

135 175

the

in

Ardennes breast of mutton as ve.

173

.69

.

—

.

.107

.

.

.

68

.114

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.62

.

.

75

.

mushroom

Crabs potted .167 Crab salad 50 Conger eels 90 Currants red, pickled .

.

calf s liver beef skirts

10 11

red, pickled

.

.

— —

6 8

.25

.

udder

120 123

.14

Black puddings, Jersey Birmingham and Oxford tripe Boar’s head smoked Brawn, calf s head. Bucaning meats, described

—

23 154

.13

.

.

7

.24

,

.

Beetroots, pickled Bloaters

.

.

— — Breslau — Whitehaven corned —

.

sirloin

Beef, Ulverston red flank

hams Hambro rough

.

.

.

—

.

.

.

.

—

155

.

Cabbage,

.

29

.33

182

INDEX PAGE

Dried Ulverston red flank of beef Conger eels, high flavoured .

—

.

Digby herrings

.

.

.

.

11

69 55

Lobsters, essence of pickled potted

— —

.

.

.

Mackarel Kippered

.

.

.

.

(May-fish) . superior pressed to keep cured .

Eels, conger, smoked

— — —

.

collared

dried potted Elder-flower vinegar

Essences to make Essence of lobsters shrimps anchovies

— —

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

66 68 69 118 173

.

1

.

127 128 129

.

Fish, nutriment in (Dr. Davy)

36 sauce, excellent 131 . Foots of sugar, to be preferred 4

—

.

....

Fuel for smoking and drying with

3

Maltcooms, goods in Mangoes, pickled Marinated herrings

— — — — — — — — — —

eels

.

.

.

.

.

high flavour salmon .

sprats

106

45 46 47

.4

.

.

.

.

PAGE 127

.102

.

.

.

.

.

. . .

.

161 103 99

100 92 104 96

shrimps salmon roes .127 tench and carp 93 trout and grayling 97 veal . 125 another method 126 Marmalade, raspberry 144 . Moor-game, potted 115 Morello cherries, jam of 144 Mushroom catsup . .171 .

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Geese, smoked

.

.

German

saveloys Gherkins, pickled

Grapes

.

.

.

.

79

.89

.

.

.

„

156 152

a

Goose,

perpetual (beef’s heart) 34 . Green West India ginger, preserved. 134 . .

.

.

.

Hambro’ Pickle, pork

.

for beef and

.

.

Hams, Westphalia

—

Hare, potted

.

.

eclipsed .

.

.

31 19

.

20

.

Haunch

.

Jersey Black Puddings

— —

.

salmon, superior

Lemon mangoes, Lemon pickle

pickled

.

Lemons, preserved

.

buttons, pickled, for pies and sauces 168 Mutton, dried as in the Ar.

— — — —

dennes breast

of,

venison

.

.

29

collar as .

.

haunch

.

as venison thigh of l’Diable

.

Welsh hams

.

.

.

.

33 26 27 28

.166

65

.

90

Oversalted Meat,

52 53 40

Pickled Vegetables,

.

.

.

.

.

—

.

.

superior, spiced

.

121 Neats’ tongues, potted pickled 16 high flavoured 17 to pickle 30

of mutton as venison 26 Herrings, marinated . 103 . .

Kippered Herrings

.

.

.114 Nasturtiums, pickled

.

Italian Cincerelli

.

.

.

159 160 139

.

— — —

.

.

to rectify 178

asparagus barberries . beetroots cauliflowers currants, red celery .

.

.

.

. .

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

155 154 167 146 151 151

.

.

.

••

)EX.

CO

PAGK .

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

piccalilli

.

.

silver

.

.

.

.

.

.

73

.

.

32

.

32

.

for

154 156 165 152 147 159 160 161 166 168 165 157 169 148 163 164 146

101 102 31

.

.

.

PAGE

Preserved

Pickled Vegetables,

— codlins — gherkins — golden pippins — grapes — mushrooms, white — mangoes (lemon) — lemon pickle — mangoes (cucumber) — nasturtiums — mushroom buttons — peaches and nectarines — — parsley (green) — onions, — walnuts, green — white „ — samphire Pickled Meats and Fish, — herrings — smelts — lobsters Pickle pork — superior — a preservative (excellent) — the Hambro’, beef

— — — — — — — — — — —

and pork

young one

Polony, Russian Provocative, a . Portable soup

—

.

— — — — — — — — — — — —

23

.

.

.

.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — —

.

.

Porker’s head, smoked Preservatives Potted beef’s heart crabs hare .

. .

.

.

eels

.

lobsters

.

Moor game ox cheek neat’s tongue beef as hare pigeons snipes

. .

.

.

and woodcocks

shrimps .

venison

.

.

.

l’Diable

„ trout

.

.

.

.

.

31

.

.

richer

.

112 87 132 78 78

.

.

much

•

.

collared

4 122 107 114 118 106 115 84 121

120 86 116 119 85 117 124

140 142 cucumbers 137 143 golden pippins 138 greengage plums damsons . 140 . 142 Hambro’ grapes 139 lemons . 141 Morello cherries peaches and nectarines 138 136 tomatoes. . . apricots barberries

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Smoked Meats,

for

Pig, a

•*'

— — — — — — — — —

beefs heart beef hams Breslau „ .

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

head head brawn

boar’s calf’s

Dutch beef

geese, smoked goose, a perpetual

Hambro hung

beef beef

.

bacon Melton hunt beef mutton, as in the Ardennes .

Norfolk chine porker’s head polony, Russian

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

German saveloys venison, side of . Whitehaven

9

29 17 21 23 87 89 111

corned .

.

eclipsed

.

.

Westphalia hams „

23

.

high

neats’ tongues, flavour .

.

6

spiced

Leicestershire

beef

10 13 14 19 76 25 78 34 13

15 19 20

Smoked Fish,

— — — — — — — — —

river „ conger

eels,

. .

.

.

Gorgona anchovies herrings, bloaters

kippered „ Mackerel, kippered May-fish „ superior „ salmon, Welsh .

.

.

.

.

62 66 63 50 51 45

46 47 37

184

INDEX. PACE

Smoked

— — — — — — — —

Dutch

39 superior kipper 40 American 48 • „ 43 collared ,, herrings, Digby 55 Aberdeen reds 55 ,, speldings 56 sprats 56 101 Smelts, pickled 105 potted . Snipes and woodcocks, potted 116 • 104 Sprats, marinated . Shrimps, essence of . 128 132 Sausage spice (French) Syrup for preserving fruit, to prepare 132 Samphire, green, pickled 146 Silver onions, pickled 148 Syrup d’Orgeat (French) 174 „ „

PACK

Tomatoes paste

FlSH,

—

•

.

a

•

•

catsup

‘

11

.

. •

•

. •

129 130 172

Tripe, Birmingham and Oxford 75 Trout and grayling, marinated 97 potted . 117 Turbot fins . . . . 60

—

•

.

—

Veal Marinated

.

•

.

,,

•

•

Vinegar, elder flower tarragon . white gooseberry

— —

125 126

.

.

.

173 173 174

.

•

•

•

Walnuts,

— — —

pickled,

preserved green, pickled catsup . .

.

.

164 149 163 170

•

Yorkshire Pressed Pork

Tench and Carp, marinated

93

THE END.

C.

WailfflO,

BEAUFOBI HOUSE, SrBANP.

.

74

1

I

RECORD OF TREATMENT, EXTRACTION,

REPAIR,

etc.

Pressmark:

Binding Ref No:

3if-o\

Microfilm No: Particulars

Date

JAnV

W Chemical Treatment

Fumigation

Deacidification

R-en

'

Lamination

Solvents

Leather Treatment

Adhesives

Remarks

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