Taking on the World : A Sailor's Extraordinary Solo Race Around the Globe 0071382275, 2002152866

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THE INTERNATIONAL

B ESTS E

ELLEN MacARTHUR

L L

E R

mmm >

A Sailors Extraordinary Solo Race Around the Globe

t\

"A passionate account that

far more

is

than just another book about racing.

"

-THE (LONDON) TIMES

\

Iaking On the World

'i'^'ff»..w.>s>z

-

>.

•r-^^-^^^f^i

Takihg On

World

THE A

Extraordinary Solo

Sailor^s

Race Around the Globe

^ELLEN MacARTHUR

International Marine Camden, Maine

London

•

Madrid

•

NewYork

•

Seoul

•

/

Chicago

McGraw-Hill •

San Francisco

Mexico City

•

Milan

Singapore

•

Sydney

•

>

•

New Delhi •

Toronto

•

•

Lisbon

San Juan

The McGraw-Hill Companies

12

3

4

6 7 8 9

5

DOC DOC

9 8 7 6

5

4

3

© 2003 by Ellen MacArthur

Copyright

name "International Marine" and the

All rights reserved. The

International Marine

logo are trademarks of The McGraw-Hill Companies. Printed in the United States of America.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

MacArthur, Ellen. Taking on the world

:

around the

a sailor's extraordinary solo race

globe / Ellen MacArthur.

cm.

p.

ISBN 0-07-138227-5 (pbk. 1

.

MacArthur, Ellen.

Globe (Yacht

3. Vendee

the world.

I.

2.

:

paper)

alk.

Women sailors

—

Great Britain

—

Biography.

race). 4. Sailing, Single-handed. 5. Voyages

around

Title.

GV810.92.M33A3 2003 796.r24'092—dc21

2002152866

Drawings on chapter-opening pages and photo on page

ii

by Ellen MacArthur. Maps

© 2000 by John Gilkes.The publisher would like to thank the following

copyright

photographers, organizations, and collections for their permission to reproduce

images

in this

MacArthur 14; Ellen

5,

book: MacArthur Archive 76; Auntie Thea (Lewis) 9;

MacArthur

63, 64, 65, 66, 67;

Thomas

1

5, 16, 20, 21

Graham Percy

,

1

,

2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 10,

Maureen King

1

12, 13;

1,

Ken

42;

News

International

22, 24, 25, 26, 28, 30, 36, 58, 59, 60, 61

17, 18, 23; Carol

& Derek Jones

19;

62,

,

Alan Wynne

27; Peter Bentley 32;Thierry Martinez 33, 43, 44, 50, 52, 54, 77, 79, 80,

87; Liam Dryden 35; Marie-Pierre Tricart 37, 38, 74; Jon Nash 39; Marten Yachts 40; RickTomlinson 45, 56; Jason Kerr Yacht Design 48; Jacques Vapillion 49, 55, 8 1

Ashworth 73; Marie Cairo 53; Offshore Challenges 57; 72; Conseil General de la Vendee 75;Yvan Zedda 82; BBC Picture

Kingfisher Challenges 51

Michael Birot Archives 83;

;

Pat

CEDM Visual Media,

University of Derby 84; PenquinU.K. 86. Every

attempt has been made to contact permission holders for the following images: 29, 31

,

34, 41

,

46, 47, 68, 69, 70, 71

,

78, 85

Contents

Preface

Maps Taking

vii

x

On

the World

1

Appendix Vendee Globe

2000-200 1

Ellen at Sea

Final Positions

340

Offshore Challenges

Nautical Terms

Acknowledgments

341

342

345

Photographs appearJoUowing page

210

338

,

Preface

I

HAVE WANTED to write

when

a

book

for as long as

the time appeared right, the process

ever have imagined. As a shy six-year-old,

I

I

can remember, although

was

far

won

harder than

could

I

a writing competition

on Jackanorj, and when interviewed by the local paper, I apparently said, "Don't make it too long, just a few pages of your exercise book will do!" If

only

I

had taken

my own advice!

The reality of a naturally active person locking herself in a room to make a deadline has been a massive test in itself never did I think that I would be able to spend three days in a house without leaving its walls. I can only apologize for the fact that the book did not come out last

—

year, the

it's

life

it is

a

been important

count

finish

of the Vendee Globe, but

I

can't help but

more complete story as a result of the extra year. In 2001 went upside down with pressures from many directions and

feel that

my

winter after the

as

—

—

for

seen through

me to look back on it my eyes has been tough,

and

reflect. Writing this ac-

but

it

has forced

take time to try to understand everything that happened.

This

book has been written and edited

the back of a car to departure lounges, at long-lost depths of the loft

may

in the

oddest of places

home and

in hotel

me

—from

rooms. The

have been explored for photos, and

I

think

have visited some of the darkest recesses of my soul to transfer

experiences and memories

as clearly as possible

to

onto these pages.

I

my On

must thank from the bottom of my heart Rowland White, who must be the most patient and tolerant editor in the world.

the subject of pages,

I

Preface

viii

Without him,

this

to be pubhshed in at least

book would have needed

two volumes! have included some early transcribed logs, correspondence, and

I

more recent

from the ocean

e-mails sent

in their original

will find spelling mistakes or typing errors

which

form, so you

are often a

measure of

the degree of roughness at sea at the time! (In a few such instances we have

added clarifying words in

brackets.

—

Editor)

in the text, but for those of

knowledge

I

have assumed basic sailing

you who have not yet experi-

enced the feeling of the water beneath you, there

is

a glossary at the

back.

The hardest part of writing has been the sheer number of people and experiences that we have had to leave out. The original text has been reduced by half, which has made it difficult to thank all those who have from the time I began sailing up played such important roles in my life

—

to our present projects. That

knowledgments But

this

at the

is

why

there

is

such a

mammoth

set of ac-

end of the book!

book would not have been

of people over the years. So

possible without the belief of lots

many have made such a big difference

—

to our

made them what they are so far from Jim in HamLindsey who made Kingfisher's beautiful tillers, BT for sponsoring

projects and have ble,

years of communication, allowing us to share our races with millions, to

"thank you ellen" banner at my Vendee arrival though much of the sailing I have done so far has been singlehanded, I have not been alone. Mark Turner, in particular, and the extraordinary team around me really have made that difference: from those the French boy with his

—

who

prepared the boats for their voyages to those who, hidden away in

the office,

communicated the

been a much shorter story I

cannot

mean

it.

say "...

and

and without

whom

could have been written

if it

finish this introduction,

PLC. People often really

—

story,

I

would have

at all.

though, without thanking Kingfisher

would

Offshore racing as

this

like to

we know

thank

it

my sponsors," but I

simply would not exist

without sponsorship. Kingfisher believed in us back in 1998

walked into their boardroom with

a plan

and more passion and energy

than you could imagine. In a pivotal year, break, they

When a

I

made

was

world of my

when we

when

for us

it

was make or

it!

was inspired by books, and I would lose myself in own, huddled in a corner of the school library. One of my a kid,

I

Preface favourites

Hshed

years ago, still

was Gipsy Moth

in 1967. 1

When

I

Circles the

visited

ix

World by Sir Francis Chichester, pub-

my

old school library just a couple of

found that same book. The library card tucked

bore the name Ellen MacArthur several times

—

in its

cover

but there were no

other names after mine, and only one before! 1

always try to give

my

all

to any project that

I

undertake, and

this

book has been no exception. I have not tried to write a sailing book, nor a book about the Vendee Globe,* but more simply a book about my life. I just hope that you enjoy it.

* In chapter 16,

which covers the Vendee Globe, the e-mail logs sent back by Ellen

with the log code of "ellenmacarthur.com/dayX."

If

you look up these

links (e.g.,

start

www.

ellenmacarthur.com/day4) on the web, you will find a complete day-by-day account of the

Vendee Globe, including weather

charts, positions of the race boats, full accounts of the

race situation, photos taken during the race, and a complete collection of Ellen's logs, impossible to print in their entirety in this book.

—

Tropic of C.iiiiccr

20°N

—O

l.ijuator-

I'ropic

of iMpriioni

Atlantic

Ocean

60°S

Southern

Ocean

Antarctic Circle

150

W

|120

w

30

w

1

August 1995

Dearest Ellen,

Mum

me you had

told

read recently a hook by another young girl

about sailing, and were overawed and convinced you could never write one as good.

Of course you

Nobody wants else's.

to

could.

read a book which

What they would be

interested in,

home- worked- on

in a very tiny

never touched before, having to

is

is

almost a replica of someone

how itjeels

boat, to venture out

make friends

to

a young teenager

around a coast

she's

as she goes. Don't use sen-

tences everyone else has always used. Surely at your age, spurred only by

your own ambition, everything ture thefeeling

The thing

—

to

—

of loneliness

do

is

will

see

it

its

WRITING.

.

out

Best of luck, Love,

Nan

it

and read

faults then, .

different to you from the

of occasional panic

GET WPJTING.

producing perfection. Get drawer. Get

is

of irritation.

Concentrate on that, and not on

written, then leave

it

—

norm. Recap-

it to

mature in a desk or

again in a month's or two months' time.You

its

badly written

bits,

its

boredoms.

GET

Prologue

not there

"I'm

we

yet,

haven't crossed the Hne yet

spoke in French into the

I

many

questions.

"It's

satellite

not over

till it's

acutely aware that Kingfisher and

phone

as

I

"

struggled to answer too

over" went through

my mind. was I

had not finished the race. Please,

I

thought, please leave us alone to concentrate on getting over that

Outside, the fog was closing

was worried

that

I

would

hectic miles of the race.

what

a fragile existence

the land

The

first

is

hit

in,

though the sea had remained calm.

someone or something over

We simply had to finish safely; we were

I

few

the last

had already seen

More often than not we were approaching.

living out there.

a boat's greatest threat,

support boat that had

I

I

line.

and

it

was land

come out

to

meet

us was already almost

out of sight, though only a few yards ahead, disappearing in the thickening fog. I

had

felt

torn over the

last

days of the race. Problems with the

forestay had posed a constant risk of losing the ful

development. But despite

this,

I

mast

wasn't sure

I

—

a massively stress-

wanted to

finish.

Part

of me quite definitely wanted to stay out there forever.

The fog rolling in as the light faded meant ever to see the finish. It was as come, or as if we might be able to pop

felt like a sign, as if if

the end

first transatlantic

crossing, in

weren't

were never meant to

across the line and slip back out

again silently under cover of the blanket of mist.

very

we

which our

I

thought back to

first landfall after

my

leaving

America was Les Sables d'Olonne. Alone on deck then, seeing the

Ellen MacArthur

2

wanted to turn back, imagining that the other side of the ocean would never come. Five years later, I had that same feeling. Within the fog it was eerie. 1 could hear other boats around me, but all I could see through the grey density were the few square metres of shoreline for the

water around

dull

My

us.

time,

I'd

The suspense gripped me. Small waves began

wind increased, bringing

build as the air.

first

heart beat faster

mast returned.

I

as,

a

damp

chill into

with our growing motion,

set about reefing the

sail,

reducing

its

to

the late evening

my

fears for the

area to lessen the

Moving through the darkness, I worried about a collision while I was busy concentrating on the sail. The support boat was out of sight now, blanketed in the fog, and I was worried she would lose me completely. With the reef in, I was happier; although we were slower, at least we were safer. The ends of races are never easy, so why should the Vendee Globe be any different? I popped below to the cabin to check our distance from the coastline; we were heading right for the shore, and it was time to tack. Back on deck, I looked up and could begin to pick out a few lights around me. As the seconds passed, the fog began to lift, and I could see lights strain.

distinctly for the first time.

My

world evaporated.

little

—

1

suddenly

felt

Hollywood film set there couldn't have been a greater contrast between the silence of the fog and the thousands of lights now surrounding me. Boats of all sizes were heading towards us, I'd

been dropped into

a

and helicopters hovered above with searchlights sweeping

as if

looking

The noise dominated the moment whenever the sound of the rotors drifted away on the wind, it was replaced by the radio chattering out information on our position and to pinpoint an escaping prisoner.

speed.

I

stood in the cockpit, took a few long, deep, and calming

breaths and looked

up and around to

try to take in the situation.

It

breathtaking.

As the boats moved close around choppy, fidgety motion

I

hadn't

—some

ing from the radio

felt in

in

us, the

months.

English,

I

some

felt

confused

—

could hear voices comin

French, some of

some of people I knew. I thought heard the name of the boat my parents had come out on at the start of the race. knew they

strangers, that

water

was

were

I

I

near,

I

searchlights.

could sense I

had

it,

my own

but

my

world was blinded by the blazing

floodlight ready

on board and

tried pointing

On

Taking it

at several

Dad. I

all

of the large motor cruisers to see

if

I

I

had put

proof folder, hoping then that the day would come to find our

—

3

Mum and

way

it

was given to in the water-

when we

could use

this

brightness.

ran up and

towards the

no need

it

Everything seemed so different from our depar-

in.

even the lighthouses on the harbour breakwaters were lost in

artificial

down

Kingftsher^s

finish line.

for a

I

head torch.

deck, making

final

checks as

we

glided

could see every part of the boat, so there was I

stood by the shrouds, squinting to catch sight

of the Nouch Sud buoy that helped signal the I

could spot

finish line configuration that

the skippers at the briefing before the race.

I

World

No luck, just many waving figures and rolling cameras.

had the photocopy of the

ture

the

finish,

but

it

was impossible.

returned to the chart table to study the chart. We needed to tack again.

on the radio to the support boats, asking them to warn others that we were about to turn. I had to make sure of enough space in the crowds so I could turn Kingfisher safely. I dashed below a couple of times to use the main VHP radio when the hand-held 's battery had gone flat. Although we were clearly not alone, it seemed so much quieter inside the boat. 1 tried to believe that the finish was not imminent, that I was still in the same world I'd been just sheltering inside from a rough sea I

talked

in for so long

—

—

but

I

couldn't.

Our

sole objective for

more than

ninety

now it was less wished we still had

days had been to cross the line as quickly as possible, and

than a mile away. We'd sailed 26,000 miles, but

I

26,000 more to go.

As I

I

peered into the cockpit of each boat,

knew, faces

smiling.

I

I

could see people

—

people

had not seen for more than three months, tearful but

Everyone hung on every second of every minute

as

we neared

the finish.

Although

I

still

wasn't ready for the race to end,

everyone again and to cross the line before

I

was desperate to see

we had more

problems.

Our

focus on getting here had been so intense that it was hard to see to the other side of it. I had been through the experiences in my head a million times, but at the end of that everything

it all,

something somewhere inside

me knew

was going to change.

Things began to happen more quickly. The RIB carrying our support

team was now almost alongside us. The flashing white light of the buoy marking one end of the finish line was getting closer, and its enormous

Ellen MacArthur

4

black-and-vellow superstructure materialized ahead of me. For

moment there seemed for

one

to be complete silence.

check that everything was

final

looked around Kin^sher

I

OK. As my

still

a brief

eyes refocused

the gun had fired. At 1936 on the buoy, there was a deafening crack and 40 seconds on 1 1 February 2001 we had crossed the finish line. Adrenalin surged through me. The RIB pulled alongside us, its passengers jumping; aboard like a raiding party, and as the horns blew and the .

.

.

,

—

was embraced and wrapped up in loving arms my first human contact for more than three months. ^just the most incredible feeling of reStrangely, there were no tears lief. As if a plug had been pulled, my concentration ebbed away in the

voices screamed,

I

—

time

it

takes for a

gun to

fire.

No

minutes to recover, no longer did

longer did I

I

need to sleep for

need to look

at the

just ten

instruments each

was over, the race was over, and if it weren't for the adrenalin I'm sure I would have collapsed. We had made it. Together, Kingfisher and I had made it. The whole team was soon on board and getting to work. As we pointed towards the harbour entrance, I tried to say that the course was time

I

blinked.

It

drowned out by the noise. Alain Gautier, a member of the Kingfisher team and himself a veteran of the Vendee Globe, came on board. Placing his hands on my shoulders, he looked straight he understood. Then he handed me a rucksack like a rainto my eyes 055, but

my

voice was

—

dio pack connected to a pair of headphones. For the next hour

terviewed centrate,

live

my

on

first

Alain asked what ing the race. this.

We

I

at least

two TV

priority I

still

stations,

but

found

I

it

I

was

difficult to

in-

con-

being to get Kingfisher into the harbour.

how had changed

had learnt about myself and

I

tried to explain. But he knew, he had already

dur-

been through

had lived through extraordinary and dangerous situations out

on how much people can endure. But while it's tough, it's still our choice, and in that way we are very, very lucky. Without warning, the mainsail dropped as we approached the en-

there, and

reflected

I

trance to the harbour channel.

—

ing myself I

wanted to

as

for the first time in

talk to the

we neared

the channel,

I

months.

guys sailing her

the breakwater I

reacted without thinking, before check-

in,

was out of my hands. wanted to be with them, but

Kingfisher I

more and more

boats closed

in.

Once

in

could have walked from one side of the harbour to the

other across the boats.

It

was euphoric mayhem.

Taking On the People were cheering, waving, and calling

my

World

5

name. Through the

smoke from the flares I could see whole families, people old and young on the edge of the harbour walls and along the water's edge. In the distance

I

could see thousands of people hanging over their balconies.

never seen so

many

smiles at one time.

could only smile back, from ear to face in that I

crowd

was handed

light.

as

we

Overwhelmed by the welcome,

ear.

I

tried to smile for every single

which

The heat was intense and the fumes I

I

slowly crept up the channel.

a pair of distress flares,

light of the flares

I'd

filled

could see even more, and

I

I

banged on the deck to

the

air.

Through the red

made out

individual fig-

"thank you ellen" was written on a piece of wallpaper held up by he was standing on tiptoe, trying to lift his mesa boy and his mother hope that we would see it. People were waving flags and sage high in the flares, scarves and torches. I felt every person in that crowd had been with us and that everyone was sharing in the moment. It seemed as if I ures,

—

was enjoying a party, not a celebration laid on especially for Kingfisher and me. I was smiling and cheering with the people. The contrast from being completely alone to being surrounded by 250,000 people within a matter of hours could not have been greater. It was such an intense situation that it was almost too much to bear. I wanted to jump high in the air to thank everyone. The last time I had passed these harbour walls was when we set off for the start. I remembered the nerves, the reality of the situation, and the concentration of trying to focus on the race that was about to start. Although I had to be-

we would

was aware of the dangers to come. Every one of the twenty-four boats crossed that start line with the hope of finishing. I found it difficult to comprehend that of all of those, I was just the second to make it. As I thought of what we'd been through together, I dropped to my knees and kissed Kingfisher's cold deck, the two lieve

flares still

As the

finish the race,

I

burning bright and hot in

flares

more

my hands.

burnt themselves out,

I

began to see the faces around the

Through the constant barrage of camera flashes I looked ahead, and there, in a small RIB, was Michel Desjoyeaux, the Frenchman who had crossed the same line just over twenty-four hours earlier to win the race. I walked to Kingfisher's bow and swung over her pulpit to climb below her bowsprit. In the shadow of the bow I could only see Mich's eyes as he approached; not a single communication had

boat

clearly.

6

Ellen Mac Arthur

passed between our two boats while we'd been out there, but we had shared so much. Mich knew that too. We hugged briefly, then he was

gone.

There was

me

another surprise awaiting

still

in the channel: Friends

had brought Iduna to Les Sables d'Olonne. She was my first "real" boat, bought with school dinner money saved over eight years. She had been laid

up

in

Mum

and Dad's garden for the

three years, and

last

was

I

stunned bv the thoughtfulness of the gesture. At a httle over 20 feet long, she was tiny, and as I looked down into her cockpit from King-

enormous bow,

fisher's

over the

last

it

just

emphasized

how much

we had

left

on the start day. Mum and faces showing sheer happi-

Dad came on board for the first time, their ness and relief. Dad w^alked across and held out closed around me, the length of time

Mum

them,

As

me too, and as she kissed me on my forehead hugged

I

ing an exam. All

I

arms, and

as

they

been away was suddenly apparwrapped my arms around both of .

.

.

now I was home. 1

felt like a child

await-

could see were the hundreds of journalists, their

microphones pointing directly

dock moments

his

I'd

approached the pontoon,

Kingfisher finally

lenses and

had changed

three years.

Seconds out from the pontoon

ent.

life

at

me.

When we

touched the

was standing completely alone. How I talked, but I couldn't concentrate. The situation felt unreal. could it be me talking to these people? Questions were asked, and I remember saying that it felt "too much, both doing the race and being here right now." Someone passed me an enormous champagne bottle, and I later,

my

stood there with

1

knees shaking.

If

ever there was a time

when had I

was now! The whole world must have been watching us ... shook the bottle and the cork exploded out above the heads of the crowd. As champagne sprayed into the air, it sank in: we'd done it, we'd finished second in the Vendee Globe! Kingfisher and I to look like

I

could open one,

it

I

had been out there for ninety -four days and simply

felt like

her pilot

alone, had, at the

— we had worked

end of the

day, carried

we had done

it

together.

I

together but she, and she

me home.

was asked what had been the best and worst moments of the race. I replied, "The best moment is right now, and the worst moment will be have to leave and don't want to get off." I in five minutes' time when I

I

was dreading

it.

I

On

Taking

World

the

7

Mark Turner, without whom we'd never have come

this far, walked was time to leave Kingfisher. I felt a knot in my stomach and wanted to run away, I wanted to turn back time, somehow to pinch myself to wake up and be back out there again. But I knew that was not possible my time was up now. and 1 could feel a pain burnTears welled uncontrollably in my eyes, ing inside me. I felt numb as Mark's arm touched my shoulder, and in-

towards me, and

I

saw by the look on

his face that

it

—

voluntarily

nightmare, stay put. I

I

my feet began to walk me to her bow to climb off. Like my feet wouldn't do as they were told. wanted to stop I

knew

I

trip

was

his

arm, the

my vision. I was oblivious to the noise and the hundreds of

flashing cameras.

Our

and

wasn't ready to go.

turned away from Mark and slipped out from beneath

tears blurring

in a

How

over,

could

and

I

I

leave Kingflsherl

knew deep down

How

could

I

walk away?

inside that things never could

or would be the same again. I

to disappear like this.

my

my life had wanted stood facing Kingfisher's bow and closed my eyes,

walked blindly to the cockpit. Never before I

in

I

forehead pushing hard against her coach-roof.

We

needed time

wanted to say thank you, 1 wanted her to know how sorry I was that it was all over, that 1 would have to leave her. Those few minutes felt like hours as I thought harder about one single thing than ever before in my life. Sadness felt so different from exhaustion. This was a pain in my heart, whereas before pain had only run through every bone in my body. alone.

1

The last three months felt like what life had been like before the their rawness impossible to hide.

1

forever,

and

My

I

could not

remember

were coming out, was about to leave my friend, and it

race.

feelings

was breaking my heart. Deep down, I knew that I could not have done more to look after her. As I stood with my head bowed, I could only say my last thank-you as I heard the noise of the crowds once again. Just the fact that I was alive and standing with her was evidence enough to me that she had done her level best to

Until this

look after

me too.

moment,

the finish had felt like a

dream

—

the thousands of

people, the yells from the crowds, and the bright lights continuously shining.

But

clenched I

now

those images were blurred and distorted by the pain.

I

my teeth and tore myself away,

cannot remember those

final steps to Kingfisher's

side,

but

as

I

8

Ellen MacArthur

climbed over her guard wires for the

first

time in more than three

me behind. As I jumped onto the pontoon, I held her wires tightly, then laid my head against her. My eyes were closed as I reached out to stroke her hull. Her rounded gunwale felt cool and calming, and for one last moment, the months,

I

felt as if

world closed

Then

I

was leaving

a very large part of

off.

heard the gentle words,

around me, and KingfisheT.

I

as

I

"Come

turned to leave,

Our Vendee Globe was

over.

on, Ellen," as an

my hand

arm

slid silently

slipped

away from

Chapter One

I

WAS CLEARLY

to

come

a

out, so

was not in the mood had to be induced three weeks after my expected

Stubborn child from the word go,

Mum

I

arrival date.

was very lucky with where 1 was brought up. Our house near Whatstandwell was in the heart of rural Derbyshire. We lived on a smallholding which had been growing slowly over the years, shed by shed and fence by fence, as Dad worked in his spare time filling our small field. The house was away from main roads, surrounded by farm tracks, fields, I

and footpaths which scattered across the

hills

and woods

as

they disap-

peared into the distance.

The

rattle

of tractors and the mooing of cattle were

than the sounds of cars and people, and

we were

more common

always surrounded with

was converting an old motorized lawoi-mower into a ride -behind, or building a flying fox from the massive sycamore tree. We would generally amuse ourselves outside and were never withthings to do,

whether

it

out a project underway.

While her job started

1

was young

as a

Mum was

at

home most

of the time. She had

teacher to take maternity leave, though as

working again

as a

ways wanted to be even

home

tutor.

Dad was

as a small child,

I

grew up she

a teacher, as

and taught

left

he had

craft design

al-

and

technology.

Dad ple

is

a bit of a collector of tools

and old machinery. What most peo-

would consider junk, he treasured

—

but junk or not,

it

needed to be

Ellen

10

Mac Arthur

housed somewhere. In and around the duck yard were sheds of varying shapes and sizes, which sprang up year by year as I grew older. We had a small Held next to the yard, and once the bull had been removed by a local farmer, the field

became an

outlet for our energy

—

an amazing play-

ground.

was fascinated by spy and survival books, and I spent hours crawling around like a commando in the long grass, which came well above my I

waist as a small child.

gently above at the

As bits

can

1

my head,

still

vividly

remember seeing the

dancing in the breeze as

I

marooned on of imagination. would

sky and dreaming of being a kid

I

was

full

lay

on

stalks

waving

my back staring up

a faraway,

hidden

island.

play for hours with a few

1

of cardboard, a pair of scissors, and cellophane tape, happily mutter-

worked alone on the kitchen floor. Failing that, I could spend happy hours swinging from the table edge, hanging on by my fingertips ^just because it was there. could not sit still. I was always headstrong. From the age of three, I was sent to ballet ing away to myself as

I

—

I

my pigeon-toed feet. hated it. just wasn't my idea of fun. It got

classes in an

attempt to straighten

ing round a

room

in a leotard

I

Dancto the

and was so frustrated that one day simply said, "Mum, I'd rather be dead than go to ballet." Although I was only four years old, I think Mum understood that I really did hate it and

point where

I

I

lay

back

in the car seat

my mind up, though suppose should grudgingly thank her for making me stay long enough to straighten out my feet! When was four, my younger brother Fergus was born. Mum was worried at my initial lack of interest in him, so when asked if could carry

had made

I

I

I

I

I

him

into the house

tunately, I

I

when

tripped and

they

fell at

came back fi-om

hospital, she let

me. Unfor-

the doorstep with the tiny Fergus in

my arms.

immediately burst out crying, joined by Ferg once he'd bounced on the

Mum

floor.

Then

came rushing

skills!

And I'm not sure

in,

crying too.

I

was

clearly lacking doll

Ferg has ever really forgiven me.

The extended MacArthur family all lived within walking distance of each other and therefore spent a good deal of time together. The villages in Derbyshire tend to be quite insular, so for most of the years of my childhood, our

life

revolved around the local area.

Nan was Mum's mother and

Gran and Grandpa were Dad's parents and lived with Great- Granddad, Gran's father. Gran still lives in the house where she brought up my dad and his brother, Glyn. There were sheds and

lived alone.

fields there, too,

and

a big

orange Jersey cow that

Taking On the

we

kept for the family's milk.

the old

wooden

remember

I

World

U

on Grandpa's knee on

sitting

three-legged stool, milking the cow, and then riding her

Grandpa was a gentle, patient man who was very fond of his family. He was a stonemason by trade, working from home in his workshop down the yard behind the house, which was bristling with tools, saws, and machinery. While he worked I would spend hours in there, amusing myself by cutting and fiddling around with small chunks of local grit stone. Afterwards, he would head inside to the cozy kitchen for orange squash and biscuits. If we were lucky, we'd also get a slice of in the field afterwards.

Gran's fantastic sausage and egg pie, before settling

down to

listen to the

football results with Great- Granddad.

We'd often

play hide-and-seek in the yard, go climbing and build dens

go on "expeditions"

in the hay barn, or

keen on cricket, and on flat

a fine

day we'd play a

lawn which had been hand-laid years

Grandpa was very game together on the long,

in the attic.

earlier

He

by Great- Granddad.

loved being outdoors and was an enthusiastic gardener, tending his vegetables with great care

sweet peas.

He had

an incredible

immensely impressed his spade.

I

and joy and delighting

that he

affinity for nature,

and

coloured

as a child

had a pet robin that often came and

would spend hours

in the coal mines,

in his brightly

sitting

not realizing what

with him and talking about to

was

sat

on

his life

danger he'd been in back then.

down with them

talked of the canaries they took

I

He

warn of gas, and he

me the names of every single one of his pit ponies, which he contin-

told

ued to

reel off faultlessly at the age of ninety- three.

There was

a strange

connection between Great- Granddad and me; somehow, even with a

good

eighty-five years

He had if

between

he became very

ill

didn't

we were

in his old age,

we just did not see him I

us,

soulmates.

always maintained that he did not want us children to see

any more.

imder stand what

and suddenly

after

he had

me

and when she told

went over to their house 1 him eat. When he died I was sure my heart was broken. Nan lived across the valley in a small cottage which was wasn't eating,

Mum first

I

and Dad

first

few years of his

to the family house I

sure that

felt

if

I

lived together. Lewis, life

my

there too, before they

were

ill,

that he

could

also

but

make

where

elder brother, spent the

moved

also

across the valley

brought up.

where Fergus and I memories of Nan

will always have the fondest

a stroke,

Mum told me that he was very

a stroke was,

him

—

especially of going

for long walks in the Dales with her wearing her woolly

marmalade-

Ellen MacArthur

12

coloured hat. From childhood she had

when

thusiasm was rewarded

she

and her en-

a passion for learning,

won

a scholarship to

Tragically, her father forbade her to study further

go to

university.

and forced her to go

out to work as soon as she was old enough. She dutifully followed his wishes and worked as a secretary after taking evening classes in short-

hand and typing. By the age of sixteen she was providing for the family. But fate intervened again when her husband died young. She was forced to stop pursuing her

dream and worked

ridiculously long hours to sup-

Mum and her sisters, determined that each of them would have the

port

chance to go to university.

were lucky that Mum and Dad were at home with us during the school holidays, which we generally spent as a family. In this close environment we did most things for ourselves. A great deal of our food was

We

grown

in the

the field. self,

garden after Dad had fenced off and cultivated an area of

He would

always try to do

all

the car repairs and services him-

and our early holidays were generally

in the caravan,

bought when

Mum and Dad sold the little Fiat car which Mum won in a competition. Family walks would bilberries in the ter

down

last for

summer on

the moors, have snowball fights in the win-

enormous rhodosharpen our penknives on loose

the farm tracks, play hide-and-seek in the

dendrons, and learn from bits

hours and hours in any weather. We'd pick

Dad how

to

of stone.

As

a result of

our

father's love of

machinery and antique engines, we

frequented the Crich Extravaganza each summer, taking along our

Wolseley stationary engine and the events, and as children

we

little

caravan.

Dad

loved these

revelled in the chance to ride on the massive

steam -powered, coal-fired traction engines, or

feel the beating

of the

fairground generator steam engines, which were run and looked after by friends of Dad's.

I

always thoroughly enjoyed being around the engines,

getting covered in coal dust,

with a real commotion

oil,

when

and soot. The atmosphere was

the engines

moved around

fantastic,

the grounds.

The whistles would blow, breaking out above the gentle but constant throb of the moving pistons.

Dad would spend hours

friends about threshing machines and old tools as the

from the engines billowed up into the blue All

smoke and steam

sky.

removed from the showed itself early on.

of this could not have been further

Nonetheless, the sea was an interest that

chatting to his

sea.

Chapter Two

In

1

down to the East Coast to sail on Cabaret, my Auntie wasn't going as well, and couldn't understand why

980, Lewis went

Thea's boat.

Mum's

I

I

explanation that

I

was too young did nothing to console me.

I

was only four. We saw Lew and Nan off on the train at Derby station and then Mum took me to the Derby Playhouse to see a puppet show called Button Moon. I was miserable. How could a puppet show ever take the place of an adventure of a lifetime? As I thought about what Lewis was doing, I sulked until he returned.

He came back

full

of his trip, having loved every second of

he might even have regretted being so enthusiastic,

him

alone,

as

I

it. I

think

would not

leave

bombarding him with questions to find out something new it was the weather, the number of sails

about his experience, whether

Cabaret had, or a detailed description of the interior of the boat.

My day came less than a year later.

It

was

Easter,

and for the

first

time

went with Nan and Lewis to see Cabaret. I remember nothing of the journey down to London other than intense excitement. I would not relax in any way, shape, or form till I had laid eyes on Cabaret. I had dreamt I

moment for more than six months. been told we were heading for Paglesham, and I had no

of this I'd

to expect.

The word meant nothing

to

me

—

I

was

idea what

just dying to see the

water. Face pressed against the cold glass of the window,

I

found the

journey endless. Buildings turned to trees, then to miles and miles of 13

Ellen Mac Arthur

14

long;, thick,

go on sea,

I

waving ^rass on the

forever,

all

flat,

marshy

the time ebbing away.

Was

this

wondered.

GAZED OUT onto the river for the muddv, with weed floating here and As

The land seemed to always the way to the

estuary.

I

time, the water was calm and

first

there. Lewis

and

I

were hanging

over the edges of the dinghy, looking at the boats on the river while Auntie Thea tried in.

to answer

my

stream of questions.

spotted Cabaret as she sat

I

beautiful boat

1

1

just couldn't take

it all

on her mooring, and she was the most

had ever seen. She could,

I

was sure

at that

moment,

take

us anywhere in the world.

was readv to burst as the little dinghy pulled alongside. Before we'd even tied on I was clambering up over Cabaret's tall, white topsides, trying to get under the guard wires and on board. The thought of climbing over the guard wire (the correct way of doing things) was beyond me. I

The

result

was

that, forgetting the size of

beneath the wires.

My

my

life

head was on the deck and

jacket,

my

I

feet

got

jammed

were waving

out over the water!

Once on board Auntie Thea unlocked

the solid-looking

wooden

was right next to her, and as they opened 1 peered down into the deep, dark cabin. There was a smell of engines and timber, like Dad's garage, and the cabin seemed to smile at me. From that moment on, doors.

I

Cabaret felt like our

little

home.

Our first night on board was like

was tremendously excited as I lay there listening to the gentle lapping of the water on the hull. I could hear birds calling in the distance, and I was so eager to get on with our adventures that could hardly sleep. My world felt alive, and tomora

dream.

I

I

row we were going out to sea. We went completely out of sight of land, and for the first time in my life felt totally free. It would not have surprised me if I'd asked Auntie Thea if we could stay out at sea all week. was hooked. became completely besotted with sailing and began to save every extra penny for a boat. Everything went into a money box which sat on my bedroom radiator for ten years. Above the radiator on a piece of graph paper was a hand-drawn box of 00 squares, and each time made it to a pound would drop it in and tick a square. Once the 100 were ticked would proudly ask Mum to pop the money into my savings account for me. I

I

I

1

I

I

I

Taking On the World

15

would spend hours poring over Practical Boat Owner magazine, which Auntie Thea subscribed to, and writing letters to companies in search of I

their latest brochures.

began collecting

I

each one in order of the

filed

sailing

books

avidly.

I

kicked off

size

my

of dinghy,

I

also

sailing library at a

Mum

very young age with Arthur Ransome's Swallows and Amazons series.

and Nan had both been keen readers of these books and had passed them

on to me.

dreamed of sailing on a lake to a secret island that had long been forgotten. I would spend hours and hours imagining what the secret harbour would look like, and how the firewood could be collected for the campfire. 1 dreamt I

loved the spirit of adventure the books brought me, and

I

of exploring at night with small hurricane lanterns, and of spending nights

moored

in a protected

bay or beneath trees

at the side

of the

water.

Few children from

the junior school in Wirksworth, our nearest

town, vdll remember

me for anything other than being the girl who loved

boats.

cases

I

would draw

a tiny

main

Optimist dinghy on everything fi-om pencil

and erasers to exercise books

—you name — it, it

had a boat on

it!

I made three very good friends at junior school Ben, Sarah, and Simon. (Simon would become my boyfriend seven years later.) I was a bit of a tomboy, I guess, preferring to play with a good sharp knife and a block of wood than with makeup and dolls. But Sarah was a bit of a loner too. She'd moved to our school from another one in Belper, and now she lived across the valley from us and shared the same school bus. Though not as interested in the outdoors as I

was, she was, and

still is,

would spend hours that the circles

cret harbours.

incredibly patient with

"sailing"

mv

love for the sea.

around the school playground, pretending

and squares painted on the concrete were islands and

Poor

We se-

girl!

Simon when I was eight or nine years old. He'd just moved up to Derbyshire from Felixstowe on the Suffolk coast, and he had sailed before. That was enough. On discovering we shared the same passion, we got on instantly. 1 can still remember the excitement I

became

of our

first

friends with

conversation.

Along with Simon and Ben

I'd

climb and rappel, play

mando, go on expeditions, and build dens

in secluded

at

being a com-

woodland. Only

Ellen MacArthur

16

more

recently have

come

I

to realize

how

lucky

I

was to be able to go

out into the country and create a whole world of adventure. I

my

worked hard

at

school, though

1

did tend to spend every minute of

more about

Or

on the bus or in a corner at break-time with nothing more than a notepad and my imagination, designing possible new fittings to put on boats. The sky was the limit, but to make these dreams real I needed a boat. For the time being, this meant Cabaret for a week each summer. And she was certainly no gin palace. Thea had bought her as a wreck and free time reading

done her up

herself.

signed for four,

it

still

boats and the sea.

With seven people, and

I'd sit

on

later a dog,

a boat de-

was snug!

was kept in a small boatyard at the end of a long, bumpy track. The main building was made of blackened weathered boards with the words"], w. shuttlewood" painted in white on a battered sign. This was a long way from being a marina. There were no floating pontoons to tie alongside, no fancy shower or toilet blocks, just mooring buoys scatCabaret

tered along the centre of the winding river. Creeks and gulleys crept inland from along the water's edge.

1

used to spend time looking out

at the

mesmerized by the movement around the buoys in the river, or dreaming of the adventures to be had aboard the rows of tiny dinghies lying in the marsh grass. At just 26 feet, Cabaret was a small boat. Her cabin was dark and deep, with a magnificent glow of varnished mahogany from her woodwork. She was not a beamy boat, so her cabin was narrow, and it was quite difwater,

ficult for

two people

to pass each other below. Peering

down

into the

you could see the tiny two-burner galley on the left and the chart table on the right. There were four adult bunks, two running underneath the cockpit and one on each side of the main cabin. Beyond that was a cabin,

door leading to the triangular forepeak where, along with the anchor and sails, we three children were stowed. I took the port side, Fergus the starboard, and Lewis, being the oldest and tallest, got the longest berth

down the centre, above the Nan was always the first

toilet.

to rise in the morning, with a thirst for her

wake-up cup of tea. She was always as she

slightly

out of her depth in the galley,

found the kerosene stove confusing to use. We'd usually wake soon

after she did

cabin roof.

to the sound of her cries as flames billowed

up

against the

—

-

.

Taking On the World For the

first

few

years,

Coast, visiting such

new

we

17

cruised the local rivers around the East

places as Brightlingsea and

Walton -on -the

Naze, the evocative setting for one of the Arthur Ransome stories, before

becoming more adventurous and heading across the North Sea to

visit

Holland, France, and Belgium,

On

were allowed to stay up long a buoy moored near the coast, as we approached our home waters once again. After dark, we saw Cabaret's bow wave churned up phosphorescence for the first time plankton that responded by looking like a thousand stars twinkling in our

first

crossing, Fergus and

enough to see "the

galloper,"

I

which was

the water, before disappearing into the blackness behind us,

I

tried to

home the phosphorescence in a jam jar, but it died, no longer shining when disturbed, 1 began to realize that the beauty of the water can't take

be taken away or captured.

It

can only properly be appreciated

at first

was also struck by the many sides of the sea's personality. An angry sea on one crossing can be as smooth as silk on another, 1 was fascinated by how all this was possible, and I was desperate to understand much more. I sailed alone for the first time in the French shipping port of Dunkirk on a sailing dinghy which Auntie Thea had bought to be towed by Cabaret. I felt a mixture of freedom, responsibility, and respect for the water feelings which remain unchanged today. Each day that passed seemed to reinforce my love of the sea, and photographs from that time invariably show me in knee-length shorts with a royal blue peaked sailing hat and a little telescope, which hung around my neck for years ^just like the one from Swallows and Amazons We encountered our first real storm on the way back across the North Sea. 1 recall that Cabaret was thrown around, but I also remember how solid she felt, and how much faith I had in her, I never felt scared in the storm, though I knew that something was going on in which we all had to be careful, hold on tight, and clip on with our safety harnesses. Sailing through the night was something else that left a vivid impression on me the first time it happened. Several times we had left early in the morning and anchored as the sun set, but sailing through the sunset and then the sunrise the following day was a whole new adventure. There was a feeling of constancy and endlessness about this kind of sailing. Why should we stop, why do we need to pull into port each night. hand.

I

—

—

—

Ellen Mac Arthur

18

why can't we loved

I'd

carry on farther?

I

had made

my first open-sea passage, and

it.

Following our North Sea crossings

we returned

to

UK

waters and

from our Essex home port. The first year we headed north and sailed up the Deben and the Aide Rivers. We had the dinghy, so we children also were able to do a spent time cruising a

fair bit I

farther north and south

little

of sailing.

was

still

desperate for

my own boat,

on the Solent the following

I

when we headed

south to

sail

decided to try to raise funds by

CowesWeek.

singing in the street during

While

year,

so

Cabaret sat at anchor in Chichester

Harbour

deck in the evening mist, practicing sea shanties

on

I

perched on the

my tin whistle.

1

can

only apologize to everyone anchored in the same harbour, as most of the

—

were learnt through trial and error mainly the latter! Once we made it round to Cowes I lost my nerve. I felt intimidated by the multicoloured spinnakers and matching crew shirts. Everyone there seemed so much older and seemed to belong. I couldn't see any other children with sailing hats and telescopes round their necks. Theirs was a shanties

type of sailing

I

really wasn't

Lewis also enjoyed the school.

I

was

enough to take

sailing

part, but

I

all

of the supervisors, and

to.

and started going to Ogston Reservoir with

in the junior school

still

the car looking out at

used

I

would go with

Mum to collect him and wait in

the boats. Eventually

I

I

managed

in.

I

one had

sail.

loved sailing there and learnt a great deal,

my own

to talk to

was lucky enough to be allowed to join

found somewhere more local than the sea to But while

and theoretically not old

I

still

dreamed

mind a tiny, varnished wooden dinghy with tan sails, though Auntie Thea was against it. She was sure that a fibreglass dinghy would hold its value better. The only problem was that a fibreglass boat was more expensive. felt stuck, especially when I found of owning

boat.

I

had

in

I

an 8 -foot fibreglass Blue Peter dinghy

at a local

boat sales yard a short

home. She cost £535, but I had saved barely £200. It was Nan who came up trumps. She knew how much I longed for a boat, and how hard I'd been saving. At the same time, Lewis was trying drive from

to save for a us £300.

It

BBC

was

computer. Nan decided to give each of the three of

a terrific

amount of money, and

I

am

still

amazed

at

just

what

a

generous

gift this

was, as

it

Taking On the

World

was

lump of her

a significant

19

Hfe savings.

After deep discussion

her hull the real thing boards,

tle tents for her,

My bedroom out

my

keep

all

whole

—

used to spend

I

arms

1

named my dinghy found

a coin

my

at

Threep'nj Bit, attaching to

in the depths of

home was

how

tiny. If

I

I

and

I

lit-

could camp on board.

stood in the middle and stretched

could almost reach both walls, but Bit's

one of our cup-

days rigging her up in the garden, making

and working out

of Threep'nj

floor,

I

gear there. The lines, oars,

was determined to and sails covered the

I

could see that the only option was to keep everything

on the bed and move

it

when

needed to

1

sleep. In the end,

however,

I

came up with a simpler solution: one day when Mum and Dad went out, I took the bed apart and moved it to the barn, I slept in a sleeping-bag that I could roll up every morning, making my room feel as though it had more than doubled in size.

On

one wall of my room

I

had a

5 -foot-square

map

of a nearby trout

on it. The owners of the pond couldn't have known how many of my dreams were realized when they told me I could keep Threep'nj Bit there. As she

pond.

I'd

walked there several times and was dying to get

wooden oars squeaked water flowing beneath her bow made a bubbling

slipped into the water for the in

her rowlocks and the

afloat

first

time, the

little

sound.

many happy hours

on the pond, I took Threep'nj Bit into the reeds, to hide from the savages. As I looked through my tiny telescope to spy on the moorhens going slowly about their business, I pretended that not a soul in the world could see

Over

the following

us hidden away.

moor

I

months

I

spent

would land on the

island

and find perfect places to

up, and the driest place to pitch a tent.

campfire worked out so that tried to attack the island,

I

and

playing

I

had the place for the

could hide the flames from anyone I

who

chose the tree in which to hang the

show any allies the way in. Behind the island were passages which were difficult to negotiate, with thick weed pushing its way to the surface, ready to catch unwary oars and leave them stranded in the weed beds till rescue came. There were fox tracks in the woods, and enormous holly bushes which opened out into tinder-dry palaces if you were brave enough to fight through the prickles. The pond occupied my lantern to

thoughts and dreams day and night.

Ellen MacArthur

20

my

As

tenth birthday approached,

dinghv-racing

camp

at

Rutland Water,

the size of 02;ston. This

knew

that

was

week

a

was

a

long, and

just old

enough to attend

was determined to do

I

a

a large reservoir at least ten times

had asked for

I

was

long way from Derbyshire, but as soon as

was old enough to go,

I

I

it

so.

I

The course

as a birthday present

my

from

family.

learned a tremendous amount during that week. At ten

I

I

was one of

the youngest of the sailors and a bit too small for the boat. This wasn't

helped by the weather a

we encountered during

Force 6 each day but one.

I

found

it

1

finished last or almost last in

It

blew

at least

incredibly difficult to keep the boat

upright and capsized eleven times during the

when

the week.

most

was so frustrated had imagined I would

first day.

races;

I

I

be able to get better results. It

was

also the first

homesick.

I

didn't really

time

I'd

didn't have a dinghy with fit

I

wore

a navy-blue

try to dry each night over the life

I

had

have been

On

felt lonely.

a million

the journey

short while

My

I

sailing clubs. Instead of sail-

anorak and

dormitory

or the latest gear, so

a tracksuit

radiator.

It

which

was the I

I

would

first

time in

might

as well

miles firom anyone.

last,

would never no matter what it took. I

decided

later, in a

against the club sailors. efforts

sails

was surrounded by people, but

I

home

wasn't going to be

A

new

with the crowds from the

in

ing in a wetsuit,

my

been away from home by myself, and I was

It

I

race at Ogston,

was

I

let that

happen

again.

crossed the finish line

a very satisfying feeling that

made

I

first

all

my

seem worthwhile.

secondary schooling was

at

an old country comprehensive school

with about 600 pupils. The Anthony Gell School was very independent Half of

in spirit.

much

it

had been modernized, and the other half was had been when

fairly

The old part had high-ceilinged classrooms with worn, varnished wooden floors, the original blackboards, and two beautiful globes suspended the

from the

same

as

ceiling in

it

it

was

built in Victorian times.

one of the rooms.

The school library, the central feature of the old part of the school, had many rows of bookshelves. The shelves containing the sailing books were in the far corner, opposite a window and beside a radiator. One of

my

favourite pastimes at school

was to

sit in

the library, especially in

Taking On the World

my back to the radiator, my legs

winter, with

on my lap. The school was home. It had been

crossed, and a saiUng

21

book

minutes by car from

in

Wirksworth, about

a

lead-mining town before switching to quarrying

fifteen

limestone, although that, too, was dwindling. Bare rock faces

beneath the high conveyor-belt viaducts crossing the

still

show

valley, whilst the

fourteen pubs and the rows of tiny terraced cottages are also indicative of the town's history. I became aware that the girls and remember not understanding why Ben's

In the first years of secondary school

were moving

the boys

apart.

I

mates were no longer keen for skateboard like them,

I

me

to hang around with them.

could even hold

my own

in

arm

had

I

vsrestling,

a

but

were definitely changing. At eleven I couldn't understand the reason for it. Ben was always friendly, but I could tell that his credibility among his friends was threatened if I was around.

things

For the time being, had, and

Ben and

I

life

outside school continued

sleep

if

me

to tell

discussed calls at

it

at the

with

it

always

when

a girl

from school

about some puppies which would have to be put to

homes were not found

sheepdogs, and

as

kept on exploring. Things were about to change for

good, however, and for the best of reasons,

phoned

much

for them. I'd always had a love of working

age of thirteen,

I

became

a child

with a mission.

I

Mum and Dad long into the night. There were phone-

midnight, promises made, tears shed. But the result was that

became the proud companion

to

one of

my

I

very best friends: Mac, a

Border Collie mix.

would change into my scruffs, and Mac and I would head off into the fields. At the weekends we would often disappear for the whole day, exploring every nook and cranny within miles of the house. Ben also had a dog. Ruby, who got on famously with Mac, so the four of us went on den-making expeditions Every evening on returning from school

and

I

fishing trips.

At home Mac became part of the family and blended in well with the menagerie that surrounded us. I would spend hours helping Dad with

which we kept warm in a cardboard box on the back of the kitchen stove until they were strong enough to the chickens and nurturing chicks,

live outside.

would follow

I

also

had a special pet in Paddy,

me round wherever

I

went.

a

pure white duck,

He hatched from

who

an incubated

Ellen Mac Arthur

11

Q2g and considered

me

his closest family.

ming lessons on the pond with Threep'ny

1

used to take him for swim-

Bit.

on our summer which meant there were now eight of us on board! trips on Cabaret During that first summer with Mac, Sarah also joined us for a few days' sailing around Walton-on-the-Naze. This was the first time I had the It

wasn't long before

—

Mac went

sailing too, joining us

chance to navigate and try to handle things on board. I loved the responsibility, and I was thrilled that Sarah enjoyed herself so much. If nothing

else, it

must have helped her make sense of

ramblings about boats and the sea.

my

unstoppable

Chapter Three

When was about fourteen, my week. We could choose where to I

school organized a work- experience go, and

I

already had an idea in

head. Earlier in the year we'd had a careers convention, and

I'd

my

chatted

Simon Reeve, a local vet. He seemed to love his job, and 1 found this enormously appealing, I felt I could relate to animals, having grown up

to

around them, and I

me

felt

I

comfortable working with them.

contacted his surgery, and after a short wait they were able to take on.

elled

It

was

a

wonderful experience.

round many of the

practice.

I

loved

it

I

went

I

worked

at the

surgery and trav-

farms with Simon and the other vets in the

and made up

when

nary science

local

my mind

wanted to study veteriwas no genius at school,

that

to university.

I

I

though, so I decided to continue my experience in with the vets, which I hoped would count for something in my university application. One day when Simon returned to the surgery he threw down a plastic glove and asked me to take a look at what was inside. It was a very strange fur ball which wasn't quite tion, It

it

looked

like a long-haired

turned out to be

for the

a "thing"

morning was

what

it

seemed.

On

guinea pig with no head, legs, or

tail.

My

task

which was born alongside

to dissect

closer inspec-

it,

pickle

it,

and place

a calf. it

in a jar for

preservation.

After

new

car,

work

that day,

and

went along

I

Simon was going too, as usual.

into Chesterfield to look for a

We took the bottled thing with us 23

Ellen

24

Mac Arthur

and without thinking

left it

on the

seat of his old car as

it

was taken

off to

be valued.

As we waited

garage foyer

in the

I

realized

man

before either of us could do anything, the

green tinge to

was

a vet,

it

his

where I had

left

the

jar,

but

returned, with a pale

complexion. Even after we'd explained that Simon

took him

a

while to get over

it.

During the time I was working with him, Simon took up ultralight flying, and not long after I had moved away from home, he sold his business and flew solo from the UK to Australia. Perhaps there's something in the Derbyshire water!

My

spare time was

still

spent reading sailing books, designing bits for

boats, or getting out into the countryside with

The

sales

different, never dull,

were always

Dad, going to farm

sales.

and Dad's bearded face was

we'd end known. He up coming home with anything from an old hay crib to half a mile of electric cable. Often the trailer would be full and, as Lewis once pointed out, rarely let a bargain slip through his fingers, so

well

"There's a lot

comes up

this drive.

Mum, but not a lot goes down again!"

The faces of the other bidding farmers who returned time after time developed a great respect for them all. More ofalso became familiar. ten than not farmers were selling out, which lent an air of sadness to the I

Watching the proceedings taught me an appreciation of time and persistence. Much of what was on sale had taken generations to accumusales.

late.

To reach

a

point where nearly everything which held a value could

disappear so quickly reinforced

people work for things.

my

appreciation of just

how

hard some

There was an unspoken closeness among these

people. Without words, a sentiment could be exchanged, respect

shown, and condolences given. This kind of mutual understanding was something I would experience for myself when I entered the world of single-handed

sailing.

don't know why I resented being a girl when I was younger. It just seemed that what boys did was more fun. wasn't cut out to play with dolls or gossip about boyfriends. Worn boots, numerous layers of old shirts, and a large knife hanging out of my back pocket showed that fashI

1

wanted was to be out filling my time something was sure with something adventurous and constructive

ion was not a priority, either! All

was more worthwhile.

I

—

1

World

Taking On the

25

was attracted to boys now and then, but never obsessed by them, although 1 do remember my first kiss, when I was fifteen, beside a phone box during a party At school

I

never really

felt

well into a group.

I fit

I

of Ben's in Matlock. I

think a lack of confidence played a big part in

shy about showing

prompt. being

a

On the

my

feelings

face of it, there

mate and being

was always quite this might difference between

this.

I

and about the reaction that

seemed

a girlfriend.

1

to

felt

I

me

little

needed to share

a friendship

with someone in order to have a relationship, which was not a view most of the people around me seemed to share. I remember liking a guy who moved up to school from Leicester, though 1 never plucked up the courage to say anything to him. Once, in art class, one of his new friends, who was in my tutor group, turned to me as 1 walked past them and said, "God, you're ugly." From that time on I became quieter still.

some

Occasionally, perhaps for to

go down to the pub

had

little

special event,

Matlock.

in

I

1

would be persuaded

rarely enjoyed the experience and

enthusiasm for initiating conversation.

I

drink and often took a yachting magazine with me.

rude or to ignore people;

I

did

it

as a

would never buy 1

didn't

defence. Bizarrely,

it

mean

a

to be

helped

me

more comfortable. Part of me also felt that if 1 took a magazine I could at least make the most of the time there and come home having

feel

learnt something, rather than feeling that

very It

much for a whole must

didn't

all

life.

had talked about nothing

evening.

have been very

know what made me

become my

I

difficult for

tick.

others to understand.

now

that sailing has

can only imagine

how weird my

Perhaps

At the time, though,

I

They just

it's

easier

behaviour must have seemed.

1

WAS NEVER

particularly

rather than a participant.

growing unhappiness

Dad had dreamed

at

unhappy

at school;

I

just felt like an observer

My social unease, however, wasn't helped by a

home.

of being a teacher since he was a child, and early in

Over the years, though, things had changed, and he found himself being ground down by a job he had once loved. He was promoted to Head of Year, with all the additional burdens that brings, and as a result was continually suffering fi-om stress. his career,

1

think he really did like his job.

Ellen MacArthur

26

time of cutbacks. Schools were closing and merging, and Derbyshire teachers had to reapply for their own jobs. There was a very real chance that our circumstances would change. I could see the anger in It

was

a

Dad's eyes; he appeared close to boiling-point

when he came home

late

He seemed to vent his anger on me, maybe because one who didn't hide in a bedroom upstairs. remember

in the evenings.

was the only once going to

I

school to see a production of some

his

a special occasion, as

of the production

was with and

jolly,

I

it

was rather

happen often. More than any recollection vividly remember how happy and positive Dad

didn't

it

itself,

I

his colleagues. I

—

sort

had been

It

could not understand

a

long time since

why he

had seen him so

1

couldn't be like that at home.

1

was to blame, so I was nervous when he came home in the evenings. Sometimes during those explosions, I would run down the field to hide, climbing into a tree and squinting through reddened eyes at the tiny glow from the kitchen window to see whether Dad would try to felt

I

find

me.

hated

It felt

Dad

for

unfair,

it,

but above

all it

but the times were

was confusing.

difficult for all

I

could never have

of us, and each year

I

prayed things would get better.

There were always the good times together at the farm sales, however. On these occasions it was as if Dad was able, for a while, just to be himself again. We were like mates, discussing the machinery or weighing

up whether or not

While

my

that things

no such

was

a tractor

a bargain.

strained relationship with

Dad allowed room

silver lining,

still

and

it

in the

hit

me hard. remember going to I

I

should react.

set, too, fighting

I

found

back

I

felt

I

For a brief

moment

his closed eyes

the room.

The

air

I

I

Gran's be-

that

Grandpa

say a last goodbye, like,

quite painful to see the

it

tears.

I

room where Grandpa was, and although saw

was distressed

wanted to dead person would look

house: although

could not imagine what a

how

hope

would one day return to normal, the death of Grandpa had

fore the funeral service, feeling confused.

was

for the

I

nor understand

whole family so up-

looked into the front

could see

little

of his face,

1

was overwhelmed by the stillness in seemed motionless, as if no person had entered for and white

skin.

I

years.

Suddenly

away

I

I

became immensely claustrophobic,

could not stay

of the house and

down

in sight

of people.

to the yard,

where

I

I

as

though

I

had to get

ran into the kitchen, then out

knew could I

hide.

I

felt

peo-

World

Taking On the were watching me, but

21

opened the tiny gate leading from the garden into the yard, I knew that I was safe and would be more than able to disappear. Time passed very slowly from that moment on. My vision seemed to go into slow motion as I stepped dowm into the workshop where Grandpa's stone, tools, and half-finished projects lay around me; the floor and windows, as always, were covered in cutting dust. The machinery was all there, ready for action, and Grandpa's old black cutting apron and gloves hung ready, just waiting for him to pick them up. I was pie

as

I

suddenly hit by the reality that Grandpa would never be within the walls of his workshop again.

I

felt

empty,

as if the

breath had been drawn from

my body, and tears began to stream down my cheeks. For the first time in my life felt the awful hollowness of losing someone close, and faced the realization that a figure who had been there for me every day of my I

life

I

was no longer

It's impossible

we

to

physically present.

say

now whether or not events were

struggled with our family sadness,

terest in boats with tiny cabins.

I

I

connected, but as

began to develop an intense

in-

think independence was what attracted

me, and these boats could be more easily lived on. They promised both comfort and escape. 1 found myself looking at every kind of tiny boat, I had attempted to be pragmatic about which type of boat would be best. I was still saving, and 1 could afford something in the region of £900 plus the money from Threep'ny Bit, which I had sold for £475. She had held her value just asThea had pre-

trying to find the perfect one.

dicted.

When a lot

I

bought Threep'ny Bit I had worked out that

more than

birthday and Christmas

money

cash

I

came under my control

each week. school.

I

I

started a

would take

a

at

new 1

my

secondary school,

The

hands was school

this vital

source of

rather than being paid in at the beginning of

regime, which lasted until

couple of

from the cupboard when ples,

was

was going to take

to save for a boat.

only other source of income that passed through

dinner money, and once

it

left

slices

home

finally left

1

of bread and a tomato or banana in the

morning, then collect ap-

plums, or pears from the garden on the way to the bus.

I

would

the fruit for breakfast, then save the banana and bread for lunch.

eat

My

other option during the fruitless winter months was to buy mashed potato and beans, which cost just 8 pence, then smother

it

with gravy.

Ellen Mac Arthur

28

A

would be a jacketed potato and baked beans (24 pence), though that was a fairly rare occurrence! Every night, would religiously pile up the coins on top of the money-box, still which was

free.

special treat

I

marking off a square each time I made it to £l By now, despite my imminent exams, I found

on schoolwork. at

I'd sit in

my bedroom

my

with

it

hard to concentrate

books open,

just staring

the Crich Stand Memorial, which flashed like a lighthouse through

my

window from the hill opposite. And when the son of a friend of Mum's from Norway came to stay I was easily distracted. Robert was very interested in boats, so we took a family trip to Nationwide Boat Sales. As a break from my studies I decided to go along. The truth is, it would have been hard to stop me!

While walking round the boat yard we spotted a man who appeared to be looking at the same type of boats as we were. Dad wandered over to sav hello and discovered that he was actually thinking of selling a boat. It turned out that Kestrel was exactly what I was looking for. A few days she

later,

came home, towed behind our old Peugeot.

I

covered her in a

tarpaulin in the field, forcing myself to leave her completely alone until

I

my GCSE exams. soon as my exams were finished. Kestrel and became inseparable.

I

had finished

As

I

was constantly ferreting around then cutting and sanding them I

worked on

Kestrel

for old bits of

mahogany

in the barn,

to create the perfect modification.

during the two summers

I

had

her, building every-

thing into her from a chart table to a bilge-pump-operated sink-drain

system. ularly

I

learned about fibreglass

covered in

clothes

bits

work and mixing

and

resin,

I

of polyester and glass. Almost overnight

became covered

in materials, but

I

was happy.

I

it

seemed

to be working.

Dad would

home

often arrive

school to find special projects going on in the garage.

I

all

my

had launched

myself into a teach-yourself boatbuilding course, and through error,

was reg-

think

trial

late I

and

from

pushed

him close to despair! The summers spent sailing Kestrel were fantastic. For the first time really was in charge of my own ship, and it inspired me to push my boundaries further. wanted to be close to those whose everyday lives revolved around the sea. After my first week on board Kestrel, we packed her away and were saying our goodbyes to Auntie Thea in the dark, about I

I

to drive back

home.

My

eyes began to

fill

with tears, and either to hide

Taking On the

my emotion

or try to understand

long dyke by the side of the

it, I

river.

I

ran off as

wanted

World

fast as possible

29

along the

to stay there forever, never

leaving the sound of the pewits and seagulls for the drone of the motor-

way. This was special

one

—

there was something inside

could understand.

else

watched each of the

little

I

felt

wiping away the

red and green navigation buoys

1

myself that

wouldn't be long

With

still,

that

sure no

and

tears,

flash

away into

took long, deep breaths, calmed myself down, and told

the distance. it

stood

I

me

was back.

till 1

Mum and Dad saw me taking real responsibility for the

Kestrel,

They saw how essential sailing had become to me, and it convinced them that it would be a good idea if 1 went to a sailing school to get some proper qualifications and instruction. I shall always be thankful to them for suggesting this, as working on Kestrel had left me with no money whatsoever. At age sixteen, in my first year of A-level study, 1 was acutely conscious that I would have to work very hard indeed to make first

time.

the grades. I

searched through the back pages of yachting magazines to find a

ing school close to

home.

while comparisons.

but the decision

knew his

ously

I

1

rang a few but found

wasn't sure exactly what

made

stuff,

I

itself

and

when

I

first

it

1

hard to make worth-

should be looking

spoke to David King.

his friendly attitude

1

He

for,

obvi-

appealed immediately.

TRAVELLED TO HULL not knowing what to expect, and

as

sail-

I

was very nervous

walked up to David's yacht, Alert, to meet him for the

first

time.

"Who do we have here then?" he said as we shook hands. David was a small man with strong hands, a gentle smile, and a tanned, weathered face.

I

didn't

know it then,

we were

but

to

become

great friends. Choos-

ing the David King Nautical School completely changed

my life.

David's career began with the great shipping companies of the 1970s

and 1980s.

He had

been the captain of sailing.

I

travelled the

a cargo vessel

And

wanted to the

his years at sea

when he decided

and had

to concentrate

on

inundated him with questions, soaking up every tiny detail he

mentioned. His knowledge and better.

world during

for the first time

learn.

I

his ability to share

was studying

I

could not have been

a subject that

The other guys on board Alert were great

company of such like-minded,

ful feeling that

it

funny, friendly people,

I

ravenously

too. Sailing in I

had a power-

couldn't have been happier anywhere else in the world.

Ellen MacArthur

30

The week ended like a birthdav

Dad

I

enough, "1 is,

it

don't

she'll It's

I

had found

packed away the

chatted

I

was

to

last

David,

of

a place

my

of

it,

fizzing

Dad

know where your daughter a long

way on

where

1

On

was immensely happy.

the

week's

told

me what

is

with enthusiasm

the unpromisingly

things for the trip

discussing

was only recently that

go

full

cake candle that can't be put out.

grey-brown Humber,

As

too soon.

all

home,

Mum

activities.

David

and

Strangely

said.

going," he said, "but wherever

it

the water."

nice to think that this, in even the smallest way, prepared

and Dad for what was to come.

Mum

Chapter Four

My confidence was sky-high as a result of meeting David King. And just and were on our way to on the school bus, designing Paglesham. Every hour I'd spent each tiny feature, and every moment spent working away in the barn,

hours after getting home, we'd packed up

Kestrel

sitting

was about to pay

off.

After we'd launched her, the plan was to

sail in

convoy with

Cabaret.

I

Mum, both of us

sleeping on board. All space under both bunks compartments was used to a maximum, with the serving as handy food-locker space. It was wonderful to spend some time with Mum and to feel at peace, away from the pressure of exams

spent most of the trip with

looming

was back at school at the end of August and, winter drew nearer, so did the "mocks" which were crucial for suc-

It

as

at school.

couldn't

last,

though.

I

cessful university applications. (Bizarrely, students trying for veterinary

science need higher grades than those

used to

sit

on

my bedroom

floor,

who want

to pursue medicine.)

with folders and textbooks every-

where, trying to cram photosynthesis or molecular structures into

head

—

often

still

work, though.

battling at one or two o'clock in the morning.

My mind

wandered and

be constantly distracted by the

sailing

newspaper cuttings tacked to the

walls.

My

I

I

knew

I

It

my

didn't

was kidding myself.

I'd

books on the shelves and the

thoughts frequently drifted back to the sailing course up on the

Humber. Even months afterwards I often thought about

that trip.

I

knew 31

Ellen Mac Arthur

32

it

had changed me.

would creep

It

into

my daydreams The

a sense of quiet satisfaction.

and provided

and conversations

effect

on

me

of Dave

Kind's encouragement was dramatic.

began to be conscious of how precious time was, and I used every spare moment for thinking and planning. I would create situations in my I

—my

seemed to be preparing for the next project. For some, sitting in waiting rooms or on the school bus in the morning might have seemed boring, but for me it was free time, and

mind and

it

brain always

myself

test

started the second the school bell rang. I

knew

every course on offer

at the

Nautical School by heart, and

I

was back there again by October, this time for a three-weekend theory course. Dave had decided that I was of a standard to go straight on to the Yachtmaster shore -based course, skipping intermediate courses such

Competent Crew^ and Coastal Skipper. As winter approached, Hull Marina was

a

grey place. The Nautical

School was situated in the old lock-keeper's cottage next to the lock For miles east and west on either side, there were docks and nals.

The whole

Dave had

city

seemed

oil

pit.

termi-

to revolve around the shipping industry.

my interest in all that occurred on the river, and would free moment standing by the window, my forehead pressed

fired

spend every

as

I

to the glass, absorbing everything.

Everyone on the course

really

wanted to

learn.

As

I

that every

bone

in

my

this,

I

was obliged to go back to Derbyshire to study for couldn't give up on Hull, though, and I was determined to

Hull, learning, yet

my A-levels.

knew

I

atmos-

was beginning body wanted to be in

phere was quite different from school, but despite to feel the strain.

a result, the

try to cope. But

I

I

couldn't.

weeks leading up to Christmas, I'd run around outside with Mac after returning home from school. I'd chase her as fast as possible while she ran rings round me before the two of us In the early darkness of the

would tumble to the ground. She always brought a smile to my face, but too often this turned to tears. I was exhausted and felt pulled in opposite directions. I'd swing from happiness to misery with frightening speed. would lie on the ground and sob, often watching the dim lights in the kitchen but feeling so far away from home that might as well have been I

I

on the moon.

I

wished

out the problem.

I

knew

the solution, but

I

couldn't even figure

Taking

On

the

World

33

The freedom of studying in Hull during the weekends and the weight I felt from the forthcoming exams seemed like black and white. So when my weekend course ended, I jumped to fill a vacancy in a VHF radio course that came up in November. As far as I was aware, school, exams, and university were the only way ahead, and I struggled on, knowing in my heart of hearts that it wasn't right for me. Any alternative to the sensible, correct path forward was inconceivable. Moreover, by this stage

Nan had not

school, following her early desire to study, but

only attended our

was studying

Derby

at

University for a degree in European languages. She had clearly decided that

was never too

it

exams

and

late,

time, then surely

first

if at

1

the age of almost eighty she could pass

should be able to do so as well!

Although I hadn't expected glowing I'd

results,

I

certainly hadn't thought

be advised not even to apply for Veterinary School

happened. rassed by

—

what embarthree years with Simon in his yet that

My grades had not been entirely disastrous, but

my situation.

veterinary practice,

1

Having worked for

felt that

should have a chance, but

I

I

is

felt

even without the very strongest grades

took

my

I

teachers' advice and did not apply.

Despite what the rest of the world thought 1 was capable of, however, I was going to do my damnedest to get those grades, and if it meant taking a year

out and applying the following year,

I

would.

I

was determined to

prove the system wrong and began to work harder than ever.

room

light

was often

on

still

pages of biology textbooks.

at three in the I

morning

as

was determined to give

I

it

My

bed-

pored over the the best shot

I

could.

REMEMBER quite clcarly the day in the library when I knew I was getting some kind of illness. Something felt wrong inside, and the glands in my neck were swollen. 1

I

talked to

Mum about

ing that although

know why I was ing.

I

1

so sure

wasn't scared, just 1

weeks were

I

on the

ill

floor in the front

realiz-

was on its way. I don't and it was a peculiar feel-

was going to be ill, worried about what I would be missing.

stayed at I

home

while

my

temperature began to

had contracted began to take hold.

set foot outside the front

filled

room,

at the time, it

1

and the mononucleosis

month before

sitting

didn't feel too

The following day rise

it,

door

with headaches and sweating.

I

again.

would

It

was

a

The next four

stick to

my bed,

MacArthur

Ellen

34

waking up from

a fever feeling trapped.

would

I

count the min-

try to

making up the hours that would bring morning. Just standing up was hard, and I had to cling to the banister in order to ^o up and down stairs to the loo during the daytime. I had been ill before, but never like this. Mum was fantastic. She was working part-time

utes

as a

home

me,

usually a lunch of bread

When she went out to room and

home between and home-made soup.

tutor but never failed to drive

teach

1

would

window

stare out of the

on the

lie

lessons to feed

settee in the cool

back

for hours, just thinking. In the garden

at the front

of the house was a large eucalyptus tree, which became the

my

attention, the pastel-green leaves dancing against the cool,

focus of

clear blue of the sky.

remember any

don't

I

though

dull days,

could not have passed entirely without them.

I

a

month

would gaze outside and

worry, tormenting myself about recovering the energy to complete those final weeks at school before the A-levels.

While

1

was

Whitbread boats. I

It's

ill

theWhitbread Race was being shown on

sailors travel

run

around the world

resented the "macho" side of sailors.

The

in high-tech 60-foot racing

and there are about a dozen crew aboard each boat.

in legs,

had never been excited by crewed

with the

television.

sailing.

sailing,

and

thought the Whitbread rep-

1

I

found

The footage from the yachts

it

rarely

difficult to identify

seemed to show any it grabbed me. Here

form of sensitivity towards the sea. Despite this, were boats racing at sea, and back then it was a novelty to see any kind of sailing on television. It was also the first time I became aware of the sponsorship side of sailing. The programme came on at about 2 o'clock every morning and we'd tape it using the video recorder we'd borrowed from

Nan I

—

she was away in

practically held

Germany on

my

editing, vivid images,

a six -month student

exchange.

breath during the opening sequence; the sharp

and dynamic sound track got

those guys out there, and

all

me

every time.

wanted was to be on the ocean

I

I

saw

too.

mono was one of the best things that ever happened to me. For the first time in my life was stopped in my tracks and felt a new inevitably gave a lot of thought to what would follow. And Perversely, contracting

I

I

sense of perspective. There are so pecially that

our health, and

life is

say, "I'll

for living,

do

I

many

understood

and that

that later," but the

1

things

we

take for granted, es-

this for the first time.

had to grab

it

with both hands.

chance may never come.

1

realized

It's

easy to

— Taking On the World was

It

as if

ergy and

needed to burst out. With

I

clarity,

my exam

most intense en-

a feeling of

suddenly realized that there was another way. In an

1

35

in-

The world was out there, and beyond a shadow of doubt, I was ready to take it on. I became desperate to recover, but from then on my illness was somehow different. Frustration was replaced by hope, and that sustained me and, I'm sure, hastened my recovery. The sea was waiting stant

pressures evaporated.

.

Just before

recovered

1

.

.

endured

1

my

worst night.

and stumbled into the bathroom, collapsing

delirious

about two in the morning.

was

I

in the

virtually

empty tub

at

was cool there, and it helped ease the fever no idea how long I'd been lying there before Mum found

a little. I've

me, but she washed

me

It

water and stayed with

in cool

me

through the

night.

A

day or two later

I

somehow knew

I

was on the mend.

loose pair of black jeans and a sweater of Dad's

we headed

boyfriend Simon came round and

and fresh the

as it

morning

We track.

flowed into

my

lungs.

was

It

put on a

adopted.

I'd

outside.

The

early,

and

still

I

My

air felt crisp I

squinted in

sunlight.

walked down the drive and began to head up the adjacent farm felt

I

so vital and alive.

My

legs

were weak, but

I

ran back

down

The sky was the limit. I was so grateful to be better, things were going to be OK from now on I was determined to sail for my living. Knowing where I was heading was the track towards the house feeling brand new.

priceless.

my recovery, Mum

Just days after

Nan, and

I

and Fergus

was able to persuade Dad to

Humber from

other side of the

Hull.

1

visit friends in

I

worked on the

school's boats to help get

to visit

Grimsby, just the

had been thinking

Nautical School, and those thoughts had helped pull the day,

Germany

left for

me

a lot

about the

through. Just for

them ready

for the sea-

son. It

was

northern winter's

a cold,

north following

a

massive grey silhouette of the car freighter steamed

into view, and the voices around

hghts on the ship as I

thought

hull sides,

and

I

breeze from the

snowy depression. As I gazed out over Dave's shoulder

at the estuary, the

buoys.

day, w^ith a freezing

I

it

followed

could

me

its

up

I

was studying the dim

careful path betw^een the navigational

make out

tried to peer

tuned out.

the

bow

thrusters' markings

on the

at the control bridge. There, a small

fig-

Ellen Mac Arthur

36

ure dressed in an orange boiler-suit was wandering near the crew's ac-

commodation. have wished

While

it

realized

was grinning.

for.

There was

a

new

life

laid

found reading; hard,

I

up

at

home

could

read sailing magazines. Although

I

I

and was excited to see

a

could afford. But

I

been introduced to

I'd first

Corribee 21 for

a fantastic boat, a big yacht

real little "sea boat."

sale.

I

Kestrel^

thought the Corribee

with tiny dimensions, but definitely a

Although reasonably priced, she was more than

kept turning back to the page.

she'd been

I

spotted an advertisement put in by Na-

tionwide Boat Sales, the yard where

see her, as

I

was des-

1

could manage small amounts of text. Looking

through the back of a magazine,

was

been the best medicine

waiting out there, and

to start immediately.

had been

I

1

to ^et back to the sea had

The need perate for

I

a great aid to

1

decided

I

I

had to go

my recovery.

my first visit wrote in my sporadic diary: "There she was, stern towards me like a scruffy heap. Her rudder was askew and one of her After

I

backstays

hung

lifelessly

beside her mast

.

.

.

the

word

'Poole'

shadowed

into her faded and battered reddish topsides." It I

was love think

at first sight.

fell in

I

than that, she looked as though she'd

were strong, her

forestay a massive stainless-steel wire

have broken on a boat of twice her

was not

a run-of-the-mill boat,

The second time

I

size.

The

but a tough

visited the yard

—

more achieved something. Her windows

love with her because she looked unloved

little

but

which would not

patchy-red Corribee

little lady,

with real character.

was with Simon. I was desperate to me on the two-hour bus jour-

return to there, and he agreed to go with ney.

I

was not

bones, so

I

fully

fit

yet,

and the snowy conditions soaked into

had to jump around

like a fool just to

keep warm. The bus

driver must have been aware of my excitement, because he

scheduled stop right outside the yard gates to allow us

We

immediately made for the spot where

red boat.

I

touched her

hull to

I'd last

remind myself

was hardly anyone around, so we found

a spare

my

made an un-

off.

seen the scruffy

that she

was

reality.

little

There

viewing ladder and scram-

The snow that covered her was speckled with dirt from a railway line nearby and made her look scruffier still. With my hands began scraping the snow from her decks, and they were soon visible. bled on board.

I

— Taking On the spotted

I'd

it

World

were suffering from osmosis,

before, but her decks

condition in which water penetrates the resin coating.

It is

37

a

treatable, but

only with hard, time-consuming work. Inside there was a smell of damp

and rotting wood. She had water in her

bilges,

and the floorboards were

floating. On each side immediately below the hatch were the bunks, most of which slid behind us under the cockpit. Forward of them were work surfaces: on the port side the chart area, and on the starboard the galley. There was little in the way of electronics ^just a couple of strip

—

and an ancient- looking switch panel made of grey-painted

lights

The small

brass switches should have shone through use, but they

dirty and corroded.

Her cabin was

tiny,

After studying every inch of her

steel.

were

but perfect.

we wandered back down

—

to the of-

was £l ,900 without the trailer and my only asset was Kestrel. The outlook seemed bleak. I certainly could not buy her there on the spot, but there was still some hard bargaining to be done! The office was warm and our faces glowed as we asked to speak to someone. A man was sitting at a large desk beneath the far window, and fices.

it

Her

sale price

turned out he was the one

swap with

Kestrel^

why

reasons

this

we needed

—

to speak to.

I

was

after a direct

which I felt was fair having spent hours dreaming up was so. After all, they would never sell the Corribee

no one wanted a two-berth boat with an unretractable keel so far away from the sea. Kestrel, on the other hand, was ideal, and I knew though the neglected Corribee was bigger that she was worth more. I stood my ground in the office but in the end opted to quit while we were

—

—

slightly ahead, saying

I

would be back. I think Simon was shocked by I was in there. I was on a mission

how

single-minded and terrier-like

and

was not going to

I

let go.

Rather than being disheartened,

I

was

fired up.

I

talked at length with

Mum and

Dad about her, and they were happy for me to go ahead with knew Dad was concerned about launching and storage, but between us we came to sensible decisions about what was realistic. I think both of them realized that this would be more than a hobby from now on. Knowing Auntie Thea would share my enthusiasm, I phoned her to things.

I

discuss the purchase. Half an hour later, though, I walked into the front room, devastated. Thea had fairly well trodden on my plans; she thought it would be a great mistake and said so. She felt I would be far too dependent on Mum and Dad, and she had no doubt that I was too imma-

Ellen Mac Arthur

38

ture to handle a boat like being;

had changed

ill

this. It still

mv

this. I'd

not seenThea since

outlook on

recovered, but

and perhaps she didn't realize

life,

saddens me, though, that

I'd

my

was unable to share

I

passion

with her.

Mum

So

Dad had

me

drove

back to the yard to try again.

home and

stayed at

me do

let

I

was pleased that

We

passed

down

to the

the bargaining myself.

bv the boat to check that she hadn't been sold, then walked

same man again, but this time I was not going to leave without a result. Twenty minutes later we walked out with a deal. He even threw in an engine and a jib, and he had not even seen Kestrel.

office.

I

talked to the

me

months to think of a name for the little red boat, but the Norse goddess who held the apples of eternal I settled on Iduna and keep her young youth. My plan was to give her a new lease on life took

It

three

—

—

forever.

NOW

most weekends. Little by little, those weekends turned into long ones. By the time I had recovered from the mono, classes at school had finished, and I was supposed to be studying at home for the upcoming exams. But the determination to sail got the better of me, even as the exams approached. Although I had decided that 1 would sit them, my focus now was beyond them. I'd be going I

WAS

RETURNING to Hull to

Sail

through the motions.

now and then Dave's wife, Maureen, would call me from Hull to me know if there was a space free on one of the courses, allowing me

Every let

to

fill it

for just a small charge.

my gear on

the hoof as

to squeeze in a course

I

ran for

between exams.

week but had an exam

for a sailed

all

would leap at the chance, often packing the door to leave, sometimes even trying

I

home was

usually a nightmare, and

me

before everyone sat down. Normally I

just felt

sail

my

on board

removed from it all. months of travelling

first

a

I

to the

to and

boat called Panic Major. Dave

was

a Class

1

sailing

Open 60

on

loved

I

it.

We The

this

occasion the

exam room

just seconds

was nervous before exams, but

Nickcrson, and had asked him whether told that she

had been

the following afternoon inWirksworth.

combination of trains and buses got

During

I

night returning from our last anchorage, and

overland journey

now

On one occasion

I

from Hull,

I

was invited to

knew her owner, Robert

could

sail

on

her.

I

had been

racing yacht, and though

I

didn't

Taking On the

know what heart beat

When

that meant, just the

sound of

it

made my

World

39

eyes roll and

my

faster.

was on her

I

for the first time, she thrilled

stretched out fore and

me. Her deck

with purposeful-looking ropes running in

aft,

every direction. She was broad and sophisticated, with a powerful-looking mast twice the height of every other mast in the marina. She also had a history.

Not only had

many

she sailed to the Azores

times, she had

competed in a French single-handed non-stop race around the world called the Vendee Globe. I was in awe. I was shy as 1 met the crew for the first time. Robert was the easiest to get on with initially. He was a larger-than-life character, with a sense of humour that could have you rolling in the aisles or wanting to jump overboard. Brought up on his family estate, he had no sailing background. He had learnt to sail by sitting on the dockside till someone took him along.

He was

not a dreamer, and he had forged

a doer,

building and modifying boats.

He

often sailed in a

and rather than buy yachting waterproofs, he wore

flat

path through

cap and overalls,

a bright orange, one-

garment. He was

piece, waterproof boiler- suit- type

own

his

a

man who

could

af-

ford to do or have anything he wanted, but he chose simply to be himself.

on Panic Major, Robert asked me if I wanted to work for him. I would have worked for him for nothing if he'd asked. He had designed and built Panic Major himself, and I loved talking to him Soon

after

our

first sail

about her. His enthusiasm

made him an

The long weekends began turning

home

about

ishly

all

every fortnight or that

inspiring teacher.

to turn into weeks, and soon so.

On

had been going on

those

in Hull

visits

—

1

I

was only

would

talk fever-

everything from

helicopter rescue drills to what we'd had for lunch

re-

RAF

when anchored

off

Once I'd finished enthusing, I'd make plans for her. Every weekend, Robert would come to the marina and we'd either take Panic Major out sailing or work on the list of things which needed to Hawkins

go outside to

Point.

where

Iduna was laid up and

be repaired or changed. never even seen before. specific

Whether 1

learnt to splice rope and use tools that I'd

began to learn about electronics and the use of

custom-designed parts.

learning the best

fast,

I

I

it

was

was loving

way

a

dismantled the

boom

with Robert,

to effect repairs, either at sea or properly in port.

new

it all

I

type of joint

and learning

compound or

a lot.

advice on sailing her

Ellen Mac Arthur

40

One

we anchored

ni^ht after a crewed race in Bridlin2;ton,

harbour and, after

a

outside the

quick pint, said goodnight to the rest of the crew.

I

morning at first Hght, woken by the gentle lapping beneath my bunk, and wandered out on deck barefoot. I heard Robert stir. Minutes later he appeared. We grabbed some breakfast, then he announced, "I'm going back to bed. You sail her back." I would love to have seen my face at that moment, for it must have been a picture. Whv the bloody hell was the fifty-five-year-old owner of this beautiful racing machine asking a kid barely through school to take responsibility for his pride and joy? I was speechless, and I climbed outwas up

early in the

side to recover.

took

It

ted

my

me more than fifteen minutes to get the mainsail up, but

teeth and got on with

ple to carry

mined not

so

it,

it

Her

it.

was no mean

to be beaten by

it

had to do.

1

grit-

mainsail needed at least eight peo-

feat getting

what

I

up that mast. I was deterIf one man had sailed her

make it 60 miles back to was up and the headsail unfurled, we were off and I settled down. I put on the autopilot as we slipped along, then wandered around making sure everything was OK. I stood in the bows, checking for fishing pots, and looked back at her cockpit. For the first time in my life, no one was there. I could as well round the world alone, Hull.

felt

I

have been alone, and I

felt

I

sure as hell could

hyperactive, but once the anchor

1

loved

it.

very proud gliding into the locks as the evening drew

top of the world, and anyone would have thought the Atlantic.

can see at all

now

I

am

that

surprised

The longer

I

if

so grateful to Robert for giving

he didn't sleep

more

stayed in Hull the

casualty of this, sadly, it

wink during the

a

was

my

I

learnt.

I

I

I'd just sailed

me

he knew exactly what he was up

in.

was on across

that opportunity.

and

to,

I

I

wouldn't be

trip.

was moving on, and

relationship with Simon.

We

agreed to

a

call

a day.

My hunger for knowledge was insatiable.

I

spent an increasing

of time with David and his students, often courses just to gain afloat

more

and navigating

practical

in difficult tidal

Skegness or Spurn Point, where flatable

Three

dinghy ashore, or

fish

knowledge.

sail

into

docks alongside the

waters.

we would

filling I

any space during

learnt about instructing

We

might head

anchor, then

Grimsby and moor

last

amount

of the trawlers.

I

row

the

in the old

down

to

little in-

Number

loved Grimsby, and

Taking On the occasionally

we would wander around the docks

World

41

in the evenings, staring

up at the enormous hulls of ships and fishing boats on the slips as they were lifted out for repairs. Old photos showed the same dock filled with fishing boats.

It

was almost impossible to imagine the atmosphere

that

would have prevailed here just decades before. Now only a handful were left a sad reminder of what had been lost. I also sat in on a few shore courses during the early part of the season before beginning teaching in a small way myself. 1 had never taught be-

—

fore

—

I'd

only just finished being taught! Standing in front of a class of

was new to me, but it must have been even more of a surprise for them. I was nervous to start with, but lucky to be in an environment where everyone was eager to learn. Along with teaching there and working on the Alert, I started to camp adults at the age of seventeen

out on the radio-room

from the

jetties

their berths

Hull.

It

I

would wake

and buoys, and smile

by the banks of the

and breathing the Just a

floor.

to the sound of the fog signals

as their

river.

I

low moans guided

felt so close to

me to

bled docks at night.

It

was generally

wandered back along the cob-

fairly

cold in Hull, and the howling

was overdressed or they were underdressed and bare midriffs.

I

largest nightclubs in

I

see the clubbers as

winter winds from the North Sea were truly

their miniskirts

the water, living

sea.

few yards behind the school was one of the

amazed

ships to

can't say

bitter.

as I

I

I

couldn't decide

compared

my

if I

oilskins to

regretted missing out on

all

The condition of the streets and doorways on the morning after was enough to put anyone off. As the evening drew in the noise would start, the back wall thumping with the music. I didn't really notice it, though; I that.

was usually so exhausted I

that

I

collapsed into

my sleeping-bag.

continued to work and race with Robert on Panic Major throughout

summer, juggling this with preparation for exam. After a short break sailing withThea on

the

my Yachtmaster practical Cabaret,

I

headed back to

Hull. I needed 2,500 miles at sea in order to qualify for the exam, which back then seemed like a massive amount. I was very nervous, but Dave

you know what to do." He was right, and once I'd relaxed the exam went well and I passed. It was a major step forward for me, but it was just step one.

told

me,

"Just sail the boat, Ellen,

Talking through the future with Dave,

I

decided to bring Iduna,

Derbyshire, to Hull. We worked out that

I

would be

still

in

able to afford to put

Ellen MacArthur

42

her in the shed for

and

a while,

could then get the major jobs done un-

I

der cover.

Once

Iduna was in Hull

needed doing. it

my

fired

As

It

was the

could tackle the most important work which

I

first

time

imagination, driving

on

her.

to

work on

a

warm-up

I

me

had seen her close to the water, and to spend

all

the underwater portion of her hull.

in treating; the

my

spare time working

went Despite the major work

to the massive jobs that needed to be done,

osmosis

in the hull,

lems with the deck were

far

I

more

was soon to discover

serious. There, she

years, and the

damage was

been very badly

seaworthy by fibreglassing size

severe.

I

also

in a smaller

laid

up

elling,

I

hatch for her and increasing the

—

tackled the

fore hurriedly changing to spend a Iduna.

I

number of

for a

me some

of his

work with great optimism though it was gruwas happy doing it. I would often teach in the school by day be-

and I

in effect rotted

endeavoured to make her more

of the cockpit drains. David was kind enough to lend

tools,

that the prob-

had extensive os-

mosis where rainwater had collected in puddles and had into the grey gelcoat. She had

I

few hours

in the

evening working on

always seemed to be covered in resin, paint, and skin- aggravat-

ing fibreglass dust, and with the

embedded

in

my jeans

wet weather

became scrub my arms clean

in Hull, the dust

and sweaters. Every day

I'd

with special blue gritty Swarfega and pick fibres out of the sink drain.

But working on her

knew good

When

I

and when

things

were

just

bought Iduna I

started

like the night

still felt

I

before you go on holiday.

around the corner.

hadn't

working on

known what was going

her,

I

my sole

her as seaworthy as possible. At one point

objective I

But after

right.

She was

a great deal

my dream

of work

I

boat, and

me

try to

her,

make

even considered, but then

I

I

just

wanted to

wanted her to be

perfect.

ran out of money again and couldn't afford

to keep her in the boat yard any more.

friend of his to let

do with

to

was to

abandoned, the idea of taking her to Norway. Most of all,

make her

I

keep her

Dave saved the

in his field

day,

persuading a

near Dave's house. Whenever

I

would stay with Dave's wife, Maureen, and work on Iduna. One day Maureen pulled me to one side and said that she and Dave needed a photo of me. Under a barrage of questions, the truth eventually came out. Unbeknown to me, she had nominated mc for the BT/YJA Young Sailor of the Year award. was astounded that they had was

free

I

I

even put

me

in for the

award, and even more astounded that

I'd

actually

Taking On the

won

the regional

three,"

title.

I

learnt soon afterwards that

difference to

When

I

to

make

down

London

to

beginning of January. Dave, Maureen, to the event.

Thea was

was

I

didn't

Mum,

know

came

really glad she

we had

day of the awards

my

Johnston

this

than

this,

the

first

—

the

a massive

thoughts centred on

ceremony at the Dad, and Auntie Thea all

then that the injury would

point I

I

man

ever to

that

I

Hyde Park

had won, and

my picture taken with sail

sol-

an early start filming footage for the

was told

was having

Thea

along.

evening's ceremony, before heading to the Serpentine in

photographs. At

More

at

in a lot of pain at the time, as just days ear-

We

she had slipped a disc.

diered on, and

less.

the "final

for the awards

lead to years of suffering. Despite her discomfort, though,

On the

43

me.

headed back home for Christmas,

preparations for going

lier

made

and that the announcement of the winner would take place

London Boat Show. Maureen and Dave's kindness was

came

I'd

World

was speech-

I

Sir

Robin Knox-

non-stop around the world.

ished his voyage in 1970 after 313 days at sea, and

my

for

He

fin-

well-thumbed

copy of his book, A World of My Own^ was one of my most treasured possessions. This year, though, he had won Yachtsman of the Year for the sec-

ond time

—

for breaking the Jules

Verne record, the non-stop circum-

navigation of the world in any boat, with any

number

of crew.

He had

co-skippered his catamaran, Enza^ with the late Sir Peter Blake, another of sailing's inspirational figures.

was amazed at what an incredibly friendly and down-to-earth character Robin was. And yet I could not believe that I was there chatting to 1

was something I had never dreamt would happen, partly because 1 had never tried to win anything. We were given model sailing boats for the photos, and at one point we were asked to take off our shoes and socks and pose in the water. In January! I was finding the whole experihim.

It

ence so overwhelming that

would have done anything I was asked, but Robin said, "No." He had calmly but firmly shown me that you must make up your own mind about what you are prepared to do and what you are not, and that you are not obliged to do whatever you're asked, however eager you may be not to disappoint anyone. The awards themselves were a very nerve-racking experience. Over the music that signalled the announcement of the award, I could practically

hear the sound of

my

I

heart beating within

my

chest.

I

saw the im-

Ellen MacArthur

44

ages of the other finahsts up there on the screen, and ing

how

sults in

remember

I

think-

incredibh' talented they were, having achieved remarkable re-

dinghy racing and international competition.

parison with

my own

I

achievements, they seemed clear

BT/YJA Young

words, "And the winner of the

comwinners. The

felt that in

Sailor of the Year

was

Ellen

is

MacArthur," echoed through the ballroom, and

I

instantly sure

I

would tumble and never make

passed in seconds as

I

it

to the stage.

It

tried to smile at the flashing cameras, and as

through the tables to

my chest,

the

Mum,

I

weaved

my way

back

Dad, andThea, the award clutched firmly to

words resonating

inside

my head were "Thank you"

.

.

.

the

biggest thank-you that an eighteen-year-old could imagine.

By February I was back in Hull when Mum telephoned to tell me that a letter had arrived from Musto, a big manufacturer of sailing gear. Standing in a draughty pay-phone box in Hull Marina, I asked her to open it and read it to me. The letter was from Keith Musto, one of the founders of the company.

He

meet me.

said he'd like to

my feet hardly touched the ground as

I

was so excited

ran back to the Nautical School,

I

My only idea at that stage had been to sail Iduna to Norway and back.

I

needed time to

I

think.

was fascinated by the beauty of Norway, and at Robert's house I pored over maps of her coastline. I knew, though, that it would be hard to atwithout

sponsor

—

tempt

a trip like that

else.

wrote back to Keith Musto, saying

I

a

for the safety gear

if

nothing

would be great to meet future projects. It was an odd

that

it

would go down to Essex to discuss reply. There was no hint of what those future projects might be. By now I seemed to be forging two distinct but parallel paths. The first was gaining Royal Yachting Association (RYA) qualifications at David's and

I

school, and the second involved

my

still-uncertain plans for Iduna.

meeting with Musto was approaching with what I

I

up

and

I

hadn't yet

come up

was going to present to them.

was back

.signed

fast,

My

at

the school teaching in

full

force by this stage, and

I

had

for the next level of qualification, the Yachtmaster Instructor

endorsement. This would allow

me

to teach Yachtmasters themselves

was another water-based examination, this time of a week's duration, down on the South Coast. So was sailing Alert as often was very nervous as possible, as well as teaching courses in the school.

out on the water.

It

I

I

about

this

course:

Not only was

it

the

most

difficult practical

examina-

— Taking On the World tion in the teaching of saihng, but

where 1 had

sailed only

once

45

was based on the Solent was going to be a tough one.

also

it

as a child. It

David's school was unusual because he taught commercial courses as

RYA

was teaching weren't always the river and on coastal barges and ships. These guys were in some ways heroes to me. I had seen the tugs and barges working the rivers in all conditions, the men tiny in comparison w ith the enormous machinery and power of the boats. 1 was intrigued to meet the people who worked them. well as the

syllabus.

So the people

remember

I

from foot

shifting uneasily

about to begin. Until

1

know the

got to

I

men who worked on

pleasure-craft users, but the

new

to foot as

students

was quite

I

courses were

Someone

shy.

would ask where the teacher was, and when 1 found the courage to pipe up and tell them, "Actually I'm teaching you guys," there were always looks verging on disbelief. It was strange, though; I never felt as if I was

many

years younger, nor did

I

feel that

I

had

insufficient

the job. The biggest hurdle was just the fact that

young

woman

there in the

first

place, having

by these men's

after

went

v^dth

been forced into

stories.

Often their

it,

it

unassuming

by changing regulations.

tales

fathers,

I

was

If

night or day, winter or summer.

they were already experts at what they did

—

I

trans-

and even grandfathers,

dated back several generations.

they worked long, hard hours.

life;

a quiet,

"smoko," we would talk together.

had worked the river, so the an easy

was

and that many of the commercial guys didn't want to be

During tea breaks, fixed

I

knowledge to do

It

wasn't

the tide was right, they

was very conscious

that

to handle their kind

skills

of craft came mostly from apprenticeships.

Throughout ity

my

of time and

was blessed by many people's generosDavid's calm and patience stayed with me. I re-

time in Hull

spirit.

spected him enormously, and first

whom

person with

I'd

boats, the sea, and sailing. ing.

I

we

also got

ever been able truly to share

There were others, too,

I

John Duckett was studying for hisYachtmaster

help in reviving Iduna was priceless. often buy van.

on famously. He was

More

me

fish

than

and chips and give

this,

though,

I

my

passion for

met through

qualification,

him

coma

nor,

teach-

and

his

We

became great mates, and he'd

me

a

lift

with

my

gear in his dad's

was inspired by him. He had been badly

injured in a serious car crash and had been expected neither to

of his

really the

when he came

to

months

later,

to

walk

come out

again.

years to recover properly, but he never gave up. Teaching

It

took

him was

Ellen MacArthur

46

immenselv rewarding, and he was the embodiment of persistence, good humour, and sheer bloodv-mindedness. One other student also made an enormous impact on me. Don Hayes, a consuhing engineer with his own business in the North of England, had come to study for

from the

start, his

still

place.

more than

He and

I

got on well

We talked a lot about Iduna at that time, as

throwing around ideas

Don

After teaching

qualification.

sharp wit and great will to learn making the class-

room an even happier was

Day Skipper

his

as to

what

for several weeks,

I

I

was going to attempt next. realized we were becoming I

At the end of the weekend teaching, we walked down the rain. I had been talking about Spurn Point in class, and as

friends.

to his car in

we drive down there. months we spent many happy

he got in to leave, he suggested

Over the following Before meeting times

I'd

Don

I

evenings together.

could have counted on one hand the number of

ever been into a restaurant. Choosing from a

derstanding

it

—was

completely

alien.

Even things

menu

—

^just

un-

as straightforward as

was stunned at how expensive things were. I was accustomed to scrounging food from anywhere and treating it as no more than fuel. This was a whole new world!

"rack of lamb" were unknowns!

And

I

opened my eyes to business. He talked about the agency he worked with to promote his company, and about how marketing worked. I had never before been exposed to the reality of any of this,

Don

and

I

also

began to think

Don produced

a

in a

future projects could work.

massive marketing plan for me, looking

and weaknesses.

It

had

all

Lectures, and Speaking. It

new way about how

became the blueprint

together well before

I

poured everything

I

for the future. Bearing in

my

my

strengths

sorts of columns, such as Projects, Contacts,

felt

I

at

first significant sailing

could into

this chart.

mind

it

exploit,

that

it

was put

turned out to

be astoundingly accurate! I

was

at

woke and

home

in

Derbyshire

rolled over in

doing outside.

I

my

glanced up

in

March when

I

hit

on the Big

Idea.

I

sleeping-bag to see what the weather was

at the collage

of newspaper clippings on the

Among them was a British Admiralty chart catalogue, and as looked at the map of Britain, thought, "That's it." It was as if the feeling

wall.

I

I

had always been there and

all I'd

done was reveal

suddenly seemed the most natural thing to do.

knew

exactly what

I

was going to do next.

it.

Sailing

round Britain

In that instant

I

was sure

I

Taking On the World The timing was

perfect too, as the meeting with

47

Musto was coming

was not sure what that would involve, but at least now I could go there with a plan. Don had introduced me to Graham Percy, his marketing agent, and the three of us decided to go to Musto together. Don had agreed to support the project through Graham, doing all he could to

up.

I

help raise

my profile.

As we walked into Musto 's so smart and organized.

We

offices for the first time, everything

seemed

waited for a few nervous minutes before be-

met not just by Keith Musto but by a whole group of people. One them was Brian Pilcher, Musto 's public relations manager, who took us

of

ing

the meeting room. After a friendly preamble, Keith asked future plans were.

"To

sail

I

answered

as if

I

had been planning the

single-handed around Great Britain,"

a detailed plan to

them by

I

said,

me

what

to

my

trip for years.

and promised to send

the end of the week.

They were genuine enthusiasts. Keith talked about his racing and proudly showed me a diagram of all the crew positions and jobs aboard his boat. I was struck by how much I had in common with these people who were clearly working with the professionals at the top of the sport. Brian was the real character, and a marked contrast to Keith, who, while fiercely competitive, was quiet and unassuming. Initially I found Brian a I wasn't used to people who bubbled like this. I'd little overwhelming

—

never met anyone quite

as

engaging

as

he passionately explained that the

on board the boat is the "engine" and has to be looked after more than anything else. To be cold and wet is draining, and it can be very dangerous out there, particularly on long passages. Foul- weather gear has to sailor

provide the right protection. Years sation

and find myself nodding

later,

in

I

still

think back to that conver-

agreement. Brian would become

a

great friend.

Dave, Graham, and

I

talked feverishly as

we

drove back to Hull, and

spent the next few days and nights buried in the Nautical Almanac.

looked up depths of water

—whether

port

was

RNLI

I

five stages,

it

found the telephone numbers of the yacht

(Royal National Lifeboat Institution) lifeboat stations

and worked out the exact mileages between ports. Then ney into

I

of the tide, and the faciUties in each

there was water, fuel, and food available and whether

safe in all conditions.

clubs and the

at all states

I

each

made up

I

split

of six or seven shorter hops.

to travel counterclockwise, to ensure that at the

the jourI

planned

end of the journey,

I

Ellen Mac Arthur

48

would have the wind behind

moth

but

task,

ply had to

I

work

attacked

me

rather than in

my

was

face. It

with such energy and enthusiasm that

it

I

topilots

sim-

could pull

1

signed by Brian, outlined Musto 's fundamental agreement

letter,

to sponsor

it

out.

Two and a half days later sent every bit of information together down to Musto, and on 10 April they replied. The

mam-

a

me. He'd gone out of his way. He'd found

and had spoken to

my

me a sponsor for au-

insurers to confirm that the project

within Idunas current insurance terms.

He

fell

he might be able to

also said

help provide a small outboard engine and weather information. There

seemed to be less weight on my shoulders until I read his terms. There were two conditions for Musto 's involvement: the first was to have Iduna surveyed, and the second was to complete a single-handed voyage of 300 miles non-stop in her. This was a shock, as at the time it suggested to me that Brian and the team weren't confident of my experience and training. I had never envisaged sailing Iduna for 300 miles on any leg of the trip. With good reason, I felt, I had limited my longest leg to just over 60 miles so that at worst it would take twenty hours and in good conditions should take no

more than

twelve.

I

didn't believe

it

was

safe to

sleep at sea in such a small boat, so close to the shore. There

amount of shipping

in the

also the shoreline itself.

North

Sea,

and

posed

this

is

a threat.

Contrary to what one might expect,

the greatest danger to ships, rocks being far

more

have to

a terrific

There was this

poses

than waves to

likely

sink a boat.

After discussing plaining

how

I

Sea should be a

felt.

last

promise him that

I

it all

My

with Dave

I

wrote

a long letter to Brian, ex-

view was that four sleepless days

resort rather than a training exercise.

would

I

in the

North

did, however,

sea-trial Iduna in fairly serious conditions be-

was up to the challenge. was sure was right, and I felt we would have a stronger project if we shared our concerns openly. In the end Brian was persuaded, and we

fore I

I

left,

to ensure that she I

ploughed on with the arrangements.

The first job was to get Iduna back to the marina yard, where I could work on her with electricity and light at hand. We had long discussions with the Hull Marina management. They decided to everyone's relief, think to let me work on Iduna in the yard and keep her on the water free of charge. The deal was that should carry a sticker from Hull Marina around Britain, and, to be quite honest, was proud to do so!

—

I

I

I

Taking On the

From January

World

49

worked on Iduna all hours that God sent. I broke off only to do a couple of courses on Alert and to take my Yachtmaster Instructor examination down on the Solent in April. On arriving at Hamble Marina, I wandered down to the boat we were sailing for the week-long exam. She was called Hakuna Matata Swahili for No Problem! I wished I felt that relaxed. As soon as 1 got on board I climbed into every locker and inspected every hatch. I wanted to find out everything about this boat, from where the valves were located in the hull to how 1 would switch off the gas to where the fire extinguisher was and that was just below decks! I

—

—

Our examiner arrived that evening, and all fears

of being examined by

someone vsdth whom I could not identify were completely blown away! John Goode was a great character, with his spiky, greying hair and old reefer jacket, smoking his favourite pipe. He was incredibly sharp and had an acute sense of humour, and I warmed to him immediately. He was a doer, not a pretender. You will never meet anyone who is more down to earth than John. From time to time, nerves surfaced from the fact that I was doing an exam, but on the whole I tried to convince myself that we were just out there sailing. On Thursday, John jumped ship to another boat in the fleet, and another examiner, James Stevens, came aboard. James was the RYA's na-

we were

and

tional cruising coach,

all

very conscious of

it.

But the

weather was easier now, allowing us to use the spinnaker for the time, and James was only wdth us for the last day.

dertake

new

When

It

first

was refreshing to un-

exercises scrutinized by a different pair of eyes.

was over we returned the boats to the marina and received our debriefings from John and James. I was suddenly very nervous, feeling I was younger and less experienced than the others, though during it

the sailing dressed,

1

had tried to blank that out.

my heart beat faster

as

I

When my

turn came to be ad-

walked into the room. At

least

I

knew

the faces there. Both James and John

about

my weak

points,

were complimentary but frank the worst of which were my relatively few sea-

miles and inevitable lack of experience sailing in different geographical

was expecting the great build-up so that they could let me down gently and say I was not ready. After all, if eighteen was young to take a areas.

1

Yachtmaster ticket, perhaps ticket as well.

When the

might have been, but

I

it

was

verdict came,

was

thrilled.

young to pass the Instructor was not as straightforward as it

just too

I

it

was told

that they

would award

me

Ellen Mac Arthur

50

the certificate

when

I

arrived in Southampton on

my way round

Britain.

most of the train journey home. now had six weeks in Hull to get Iduna ready. There was still much to organize, from the electrics to a full set of the right spares. It was all incredibly hectic, and although I was doing most of the work myself, Dave, I

slept for I

Don, and John Duckett

also

put in hours to get Iduna and

me to the

start

of our voyage.

On

was on the boat well before the sun came up, finishing the final wiring of the spare autopilot. People were gradually collecting on Mum and Dad, Fergus, Lewis, and Mac. Lew was going the dockside through a very difficult time at that stage. University had not gone as 1

June

I

—

he'd hoped, and he was trying to decide whether he should go back to

complete

— had come up

degree or look for something different elsewhere

his

per-

to was grateful to him for his presence. Sarah see me off too, along with Don, Graham Percy, and others from Don's office. Dave and Maureen were there, of course, and Steve and Shamus,

haps a job.

I

who'd helped me work on Iduna. 1 put on my oilskins and said my goodbyes. There was no sadness as I spoke to Mum and Dad on the pontoon. Saying goodbye to Mac was hardest, as

couldn't let her

I

hugged Lew.

Although

it

"It'll

all.

was going to be

a

long

I

said.

And that was

that.

knew that all those people on own way, and was thankful to

trip,

I

would be with me in their I just wanted to stop time and restart

didn't cry until

be back; she just under-

I

the dockside

them

I'd

was leaving. be a walk in the park," he

stood, as dogs do, that I

know when

I

it

once

I

was on

my way.

had passed through the locks and was out on the

river.

I

I

Mac stretching high up over the seawall to watch me. down my face for the first time that day. Then turned

looked back to see

A

tear slipped

back to face the It til

was

that

I

sea.

as if I'd left

We were off. behind on the dockside every part of my

moment. Ahead was an unknown

future,

life

and Iduna and

up unI

were

suspended between the two, waiting for the past to disappear over the horizon. This was the biggest single turning-point in tense anticipation was almost too

over a year.

much

to bear.

I'd

my

been

life,

in

and the

in-

Hull for just

Chapter Five

The wind was very

light

on our

first

day sailing out of the Humber, and

met the familiar brownvery empty afternoon, the

progress was slow. The quiet, pale grey sky stained waters of the river, and

it felt

like a

only sound the gentle slapping of the water beneath Idunas hull. Reluctantly,

an hour or so after leaving the dockside,

With the wdnd so make Bridlington gine.

It's

light,

we would

for the tide. So

I

switched on her engine.

have to speed up

we continued

if

we were

going to

to the sound of the en-

hard to describe the frustration of trying to

sail

without wind.

I

was lucky that I had an engine I could run, but that feeling of quietness was just not there. When the engine is stopped and the bubbling sound of water under the hull returns, it's sheer bliss. As darkness fell the wind seemed to steady, and as I sat back in the cockpit I pulled out my dictaphone for a few words:

now 2113 at night, the sun's setting and we're sailing along at about three and a half knots with full sail, just managed to

It's

get the engine offfor thefirst real time in days and it's absolutelyfantastic and peaceful. The wind's about Force 2—3 .

what I've come for, I'm feeling

.

.

one of those moods where I wish I could jump off the boat, get in a dinghy and see what she looks like. She must look so beautiful sailing along tonight. it's

in

51

Ellen

52

We

Mac Arthur

approached Bridlington around midnight.

the night so the morning.

lights

decided to anchor for

could rest rather than wait for the tide

I

Though now exhausted,

on the foredeck

The

I

lighting the

little

1

at

four o'clock in

was happy to be foraging around

kerosene lamp thatThea had given me.

of Bridlington shone over us, and

up the log beneath the white glow of the

I

climbed below and wrote

little strip light

above the chart

table.

The following morning we pushed on up the coast. It began to look like a longer sail to Hartlepool, but when the wind died once more, I decided to pull into the nearest port, Scarborough.

I

couldn't have had a

more cheerful welcome in any port, let alone for the first of the trip. I was met bv Tony, the harbour watch-keeper who lived in the lighthouse was soon invited into the yacht club for pie and peas with the members. It was a perfect start and an early insight into the kindness I would encounter throughout my trip. As we headed up the coast next day, the chffs loomed mysteriously. The breeze was too light to blow away the mist which shrouded the building on the docks, and

rocks

but soon

it

made my sandwiches

as

at their base,

south.

I

I

wind freshened from the we passed Robin Hood's Bay, a beautiful

cleared as the

cluster of houses sheltered in a tight

out Idunas genoa, so

orange

For the

hull.

we had first

a sail

little

break in the

cliffs.

I

had poled

out each side to pull along her little

time in the voyage,

I

could hear the water

wandered on to her foredeck and sat looking back into our wake, my eye drawn by her little red ensign fluttering away in the breeze. Scotland, here we come! Our first real setback was Hartlepool. The forecast got progressively worse, and we ended up storm -bound there for two weeks. The waves were relentless, and the wind blew angrily for what seemed like forever. Coincidentally, also in port but undergoing a refit was the Sea Cadets' training ship, the magnificent square-rigged TS Royalist. As I arrived she was in her final few days of making ready to sail, and I was invited on her bows.

creaming

at

board for

tea.

I

She was an incredible ship, covered in brasswork and weathered timbers. Though roughly

We

my age, she was still

an evocative link with

sailing's

wardroom in the aft of the ship, and made to feel completely at home; over the next couple of weeks made some good friends there. great times on board her, and past.

ate in the officers'

I

I

was

I

had

I

was

Taking On the even invited to

mountainous

World

53

bosun's mate when she went out to brave the was intrigued by the teamwork, seeing everyone

sail as

swells.

I

function together so well.

When

I

climbed the rigging with the young

wind howled through the ropes and the masts swept violently through the air as her hull pitched through the waves. I was very impressed by the way a job was done if it needed to be done, and by the willingness of the cadets to adjust to their newfound surroundings. The only difficult part of my time in Hartlepool occurred when Don came to see me. I felt that what we both wanted from our relationship would not take us down the same path. Maybe 1 felt a little claustrophobic, having had time to think since setting off, and it seemed best to end it there and then, to go our separate directions, rather than let the relacadets, the

tionship wither slowly and painfully.

My final days in Hartlepool felt like

a blur of sadness.

On my

was piped out by Royalist with two blasts on her foghorn, but the swell was too large to motor safely, and Iduna and I were flung around so much that I reluctantly made first

attempt to leave Hartlepool

I

the decision to stay another night.

When we eventually did break clear to continue northward the following day,

I

felt

From

an overwhelming relief to be moving once again.

way the evening sun lit the hills of the Yorkto meet the sea, the sheer beauty of it all never had so much time to wonder at my surround-

iridescence of the water to the shire

Wolds

as they rolled

was breathtaking.

I've

ings as during that trip.

down

sat in the setting

I

sun writing up

my daily log:

Puffinsfiying past just three feet away! Continued north then

motored into Eyemouth roads. Anchored up

in 5 metres

of

water, three hours before low water at 1215, then went to sleep.

Up for the

1405forecast

—not

too good.

Eyemouth

beautiful place, with a beautiful bay. My septic, so I

plastered

doused

it

it

is

a

thumb has gone

with TCP, pulled out the green stuff then

up! Lovely! Departed Eyemouth at 1700. Sailed

out! There wasn't too it's

much wind but I was determined

to sail,

too quiet here to use the motor.

— taking note of diagrams. As entrance opened up looked and saw a chap standing by house— Almost missed St. Abbs! the pilot

across

the

I got

my sails off and motored in the

I

the lifeboat

Ellen MacArthur

54

me where to go, and chattedfor a but is now in the building trade.

he showed to sea

He used to go

bit.

Abbs is an indescribably peaceful andfriendly port. I was so glad I came. I have had an eelfeed on the weed on my there was some keel and I can see starfish on the seabed St.

—

confusion over where I should berth due to a rock

everyone has been more than helpful. I

—but

am sitting in

the

setting sun writing this at 1948 hrs.

On

leaving,

burgh. Isle

It

was

day to

a glorious

Once on

of May.

Anstruther.

crossed the Firth of Forth, heading north past Edin-

I

It

across, passing the rocky but beautiful

sail

the north side of the Firth,

was getting

late

and chips and wolfed

it

spent the night in

by the time we tied up, and

like peeling vegetables for the pressure cooker, so fish

1

down

as

I

sat

1

I

didn't feel

popped out

to

buy

watching the fishing boats.

was kept up with agonizing stomach cramps. By the time the sun had risen, the pain had completely gone, but I'd barely slept. By day, I think I forgot how bad I'd felt.

The

I

was

night, though,

anything but peaceful.

cast off Idunas lines, heading for

day to get there, so probably

make

it

I

our next stop

decided that even

under

if

the

I

—

Arbroath.

wind stayed

We had

all

we'd

light

sail.

wind died completely and the pains came back, much worse than they'd been at night. couldn't crouch anyIn the heat of the afternoon, the

1

where, dicitis.

in

felt

desperately uncomfortable, and feared

Although Arbroath was only

a

because the tide hadn't yet risen.

decided to carry on to Montrose

and with the tide

still

—

it

might be appen-

couple of miles away, I'd it

1

couldn't get

have had to wait until evening.

was the only port

under us we would be there

in a

I

I

could enter,

matter of hours.

As time ticked away, though, the pain seemed to get worse. I tried calling home to let someone know what was happening, but no reply. then I

got through to

Dad

at school,

but there was

little

he could do.

I

could

hear the concern in his voice, but also his helplessness. Nonetheless,

was

a great relief to hear him.

Though

I

was close to shore,

well have been out of sight of land. Trying to think ahead, call

Graham

As

I

fice to

to let

him know

approached Montrose

make

I

I

it

might

as

Dad

to

asked

what was happening. I

Harbour Control Ofand that there were medical

called ahead to the

sure they were expecting

me

Taking On the

World

55

"No problem," came the reply, and I was told that someone would come out to meet me. Montrose, almost exclusively a shipping port, was not really recommended for small yachts, but as it turned out 1 could not have made a better decision. As I approached the harbour entrance, I edged my way into the cabin to call the port authorities to make sure there was no shipping on its way facilities

out.

As

I

nearby.

reached for the VHF radio to change channels,

hear a very large vessel close to me.

and saw to

my relief that the

me

and was right They escorted

1

I

was

startled to

peered out through the windows

pilot vessel Southesk

had come out to meet

alongside.

me up

where ships towered above the concrete dockside. A shortish man walked out onto the Southesk's side-deck and indicated where he wanted me to berth. The pain in my stomach was agonizing. It shot through me every time I moved, so tying up Iduna seemed to take forever. The man 1 had seen on the deck of the Southesk the river,

turned out to be the harbourmaster, Harry; he drove firmary.

By the time

doctor assured

would

pass.

I

me

was

arrived, the pain

I

that

I

seemed

me

to the local in-

to be easing a

I

The

did not have appendicitis and that the pain

feeling slightly better at this stage, so

back to Iduna, where

little.

collapsed in

my bunk in

Harry ran

me

an exhausted and sweaty

heap. I

called

home

later that

been discussing the

come

evening after trying to sleep.

situation,

and

Mum

My parents had

had decided she was going to

was glad, though worried that her trip might be a waste of time. But I had been away almost a month, and I knew it would be wonderful to see a familiar face. to Montrose.

That night began

and the noise of the pain,

I

was WTiting

now

1

fine,

but once the

in

my

final cries

from the

settling birds

was again racked with intense bunk, and Iduna s cabin, which had always been

traffic

had stopped,

I

wanted to curl up and scream, but I didn't have the space. I was able to hug one leg or the other to my chest, and I lay there whimpering the night away. I kept reminding myself that it was not appendicitis and that it would just go away, but it didn't. There was no relief till 1 woke wdth the first movements in the comforting,

felt

claustrophobic.

I

just

river rocking Iduna.

The following morning Harry came down to see me and asked how I I said that I'd had a terrible night but was feeling better, and that

was.

Ellen MacArthur

56

Mum

would be

arriving at

Montrose Station

fered to pick her up and handed

me

a

at

He

three o'clock.

of-

key for the workers' shed. The

guvs who worked on the docks had asked him to let me have the spare key for their dock shed, in case I wanted to use the toilet, get hot water, or use the kettle.

The pain had eased a bit, so I slept all morning and by lunchtime felt much better. It was wonderful to see Mum bounce off the train at the station, and as we hugged each other, relief flowed between us. Harry dropped us back at Iduna, where we climbed down the ladder and I excitedly recited all there was to be told of the journey so far. That night I was ill again, doubled up in my bunk as Mum tried to sleep in the makeshift bunk we had laid down the centre of Iduna. It was no use this pain wasn't going away, and by 0400 Mum was up to see if there was anyone around wdth

a

mary

who

could help.

I

was squirming

again,

temperature. The night watchman kindly gave us

in his van.

The doctor was

fantastic,

and

time

this

a lift to the infir-

but he couldn't work out ex-

what was wrong. He gave me something to take, and we headed back to the dock. The medicine seemed to ease whatever was going on actly

me, and the following day I felt OK again. Mum was worried about being away from Derbyshire, as so many people relied on her. We talked a lot about what was going on at home, and it was clear things weren't at all easy. Nan was struggling, having had inside

to

come home from her exchange program

Germany because

in

Mum now had to run her to places she'd always walked to.

of

ill-

must have been heartbreaking enough for Nan to have to break away from her studies, let alone cope with the frustration of being so frail. Auntie Thea ness.

was

also staying in Derbyshire. She'd

had

a crippling

nervous reaction to

a painkilling spinal injection after she'd injured her back, and

looking after her. Gran was also unwell and ing to

make

about

a decision

his future.

bearing the brunt and, not for the felt terrible that

she had

break to look after

me

come up

I

Mum;

try-

as usual she

was

to Montrose.

I

it

I

can only hope that her

good

it

did me. She asked

Derbyshire with her until she was sure that.

But

I

I

was re-

went home I would jeopardize the trip and round. It was disheartening to have been storm-

her that

would not make

home,

was

still

at

and there was certainly some temptation to do

sisted, tefling

Mum

time, being strong for everyone.

did her a fraction of the

me if wanted to go back to better,

first

Lew was

Poor

It

if

I

Taking On the bound for so long in Hartlepool, but and I was going to go for it.

Mum

and

I

now

right

World

the weather

57

was good

found ourselves walking back from town past the dock

On

was locked, I realized I still had the little key tucked away in my pocket. As we opened the door, it was like entering a long-lost den. There were a few dark-coloured shed the following morning.

seats scattered around, several

wear.

The windows were

dirty

discovering

it

with the covers suffering

from the

ments, though shards of sunlight were

just

through

and lorry move-

daily forklift

still

a bit

about making

it

through.

There were several rather unflattering pictures of semi-naked and naked the walls, and a large electric kettle with a few tins, mugs,

women on

and spoons in the why, but

was

I

far corner.

felt right at

As

home

I

walked

in

I

smiled;

I

don't really

in a shed like this; looking back,

I

know

think

I

proud to have been accepted into the dock workers' world. As we made ourselves a cup of tea and sat down for a great last just plain

chat.

Mum

commented, "Goodness,

this is

well used," which kind of

summed it up.

We said our goodbyes, which in many ways was harder than in Hull. We both had a much better idea now of what was taking on, although I

think this just

made me

that evening, but

day she and

I

I

feel

more determined.

I

Iduna

seemed too quiet

consoled myself with the thought that the following

would be

setting off again.

Monday June 26th Got up at 0810. Spent the morning Jixing the wind generator, making phone calls and washing up. Also spent quite a bit of time passage planning where to head next. Cut thumb bad on the aluminium disc. Never mind. Sandwiches for lunch. At 1300 went to get water alongside Southesk pilot boat. Big

—

—

hassle

—

too strong a jet which burst

Loads of water in the

bilges.

in the battery box! Luckily I

my little

water tank!

There was water everywhere, even

managed

to fix tank, it

had broken

at the inlet! Decided water purification tablets needed. Went

—

Found mega expensive ones in Boots so tried nearby chemist. Got some Milton! I'm sure it'll do the job. Got back to boat, handed in key to the shed then departed as Southesk was due to leave shortly. Still in jeans and T-shirt,

into town.

—

Ellen Mac Arthur

58

started up engine

— waved goodbye. On way out

and set off-

up Montrose port controI.Thanked them for their hospitality and help and said I hoped to come back some called

—port welcome back anytime" —

The reply was "Iduna

time.

you're

control,

no problem

—

lovely.

The wind began with a cup of

to pick

tea,

I

up soon

after

we'd

left.

As

sat in the

I

cockpit

could see fog looming ahead, rolHng towards

us.

Above the blanket the sky was clear and bright, and as the air turned grey there was a shimmering on the water as though it was coated in silver.

I

tried to stay close inshore to

ping that might be around eye-balling.

I

hoisted

my

—

I

keep clear of the routes of any ship-

had no way of seeing them other than by

radar reflector into Idunas rigging, so that

we

might have a chance of being seen by the ships themselves, and listened hard for the sound of their engines. We tacked so close into the they rose out of the fog high above

me

cliffs

that

while the foaming waves broke

onto the rocks beneath.

him know where I was and say that I was tacking up the coast in fog. I just wanted to let any shipping that was near us know we were around. There was someone else listening in to this raI

called the Coastguard to let

dio conversation, though, and soon after-wards they contacted rectly. It

seemed

was keen to come out and was sure

—

MRI 38 new piece

that a boat called test a

that their mission

was

in

no way

me

di-

a high-speed rescue boat

of technology on me. a "rescue,"

I

Once

I

was happy to co-

operate. Their equipment was designed to find a vessel purely with a ra-

dio signal.

I

carried on

up the

coast.

The boat loomed out of the fog. Asked over the radio if I could hear them, my reply was a loud and clear, but they meant

"Hang on" stuck my head out of the hatch and saw their boat on my starboard side, they hung around as I tried to sail in. At approx 2030 I put on my engine and motoreventually motoring for gradually taking down sails sailed engines!

I

said

—

—

— blood

the last half hour, very bumpy. Cut finger again!! over!

and

Didn V want any on

sails

sea eagles close, very eerie. Followed

Stonehaven and moored up.

all

though. Waves breaking on rocks

MRI

38 into

Taking The skipper of MRI 38 came up to talk name was Hamish McDonald, and he ran

to

me

On as

World

the

was tying

I

up. His

company which had

the

59

de-

signed and built the boat that he had brought out to find me.

needed to get something to eat, and on discovering that the local chip shop was closed, Hamish drove me straight off to his house at the I

top of the town.

cooked

me

was warmly welcomed by

I

bacon and eggs for

midnight Hamish gave lying back in

me

a

lift

tea.

We

chatted

back to Iduna.

I

his family, till

late,

and

his wife

and soon

after

turned in straight away,

my bunk with a big smile on my face.

Hamish arrived with the weather

morning and offered to send down one of his engineers to look at a small problem I'd been having with my outboard engine. He also handed me a copy of a book he'd written. Inside was a short handwritten note: forecast next

Live by this

Be

at

peace with nature

Be

at

peace with your place of work

Be

at

peace with your tools of work

Realize your capabilities

—work

Very best wishes to Ellen, may

to your limitations.

all

your dreams come true.

HM 27/06/95 After the engineer had fixed the outboard,

I

away and departed Stonehaven, sad to be leaving new It

was

just

minutes

later that the dolphins

came.

1

seen wild dolphins before, and

be hard pushed to

make people

was grinning from ear to I

lines straight

friends.

I'd

think of another creature that has the potential to quite as quickly as the dolphin.

my

shipped

laughed out loud

as

ear.

1

smile

had never

they swept past

Though we were moving quite slowly, they leapt at her bow and dived beneath us they would turn their heads on one side and look up, and at the same time I could reach down and touch them. This is what Iduna.

.

.

.

If the trip was forced to end tomorwould have already seen such a big part of what 1 came out to see. The next stages were calm, a mixture of sailing and motoring. We

being out here row,

is all

about,

1

thought.

1

stopped off in Peterhead, then, after an early

start, sailed

headland to a tiny fishing village called Whitehills. worry, though, because

we were behind

1

was

round the starting to

schedule: although

we had

60

Ellen MacArthur

we were

covered a ^ood distance, trip.

We

had had our two weeks

below 400 miles of a 1 900-mile Hartlepool and three days in Mon-

still

in

,

been nearer the top of Scotland by now. thought about the options. The plan had always been to pass round Cape Wrath, between Scotland and the Orkneys, but now I was beginning to doubt that would be feasible. We'd had fantastic weather since Hartlepool, trose and should have

and that

I'd

been able to

— we had

up there port

in

at all.

I

sail

most

days, but

it

was not going to

stay like

was worried about getting stuck in gales if we got caught, we would struggle to get into the north Iduna is a very small boat, and her outboard engine simply to get moving.

I

—

was not going to be something I could rely on. As our attempt to leave Hartlepool had shown, the engine could be practically useless when the propeller

came out of the water each time Iduna went over

had been worrying about tantly

I

decided to play

this since the

it

safe

beginning of the

a big wave.

trip,

I

and reluc-

by taking the alternative route: cutting

out those miles around the top by transiting the Caledonian Canal from

was angry with myself for having opted for knew it was the right decision. No one else could was determined we were going to do it.

Inverness to Fort William.

but

I

me, and

I

this alternative,

make

it

for

I

29th June Whitehills

The Harbourmaster thanked me very much for coming to pay. He took my 16, and asked me if I likedJish and gave me 4fresh haddock.

He asked me if I could gut them, to

which

I replied

"No problem" which I was sure I could. I left the shed smiling and I had porridge for breakfast that I had cooked in harbour before my departure. I then set about cleaning andfilleting the haddock. Great fun. I tailed and beheaded them first, which the sea gulls rather enjoyed! I then tried to get the fish off the bone. Which actually wasn't as hard as I thought. I then ended

up with eight fillets, one of which 1fried

instantly, it

delicious. Three yachts passed going the other way

They looked mist

—

like

to

was seaward.

ghost ships. The horizon was hidden in the

they looked like they were floating on glass.

Next stop was Lossiemouth, where Graham had arranged for me to meet some of the lads from the local RAF base. I was shown round the base and ended up going to the pub and chatting with the guys who

World

Taking On the

61

worked the search and rescue heUcopter. I made it back on board, almost drunk, just before midnight. It had been a long time since I'd enjoyed a big evening out! Still,

I

was up

early the following morning.

The

forecast

strong winds, but with advice from the harbourmaster for

it.

He

thought

Caledonian Canal.

would make Inverness

I

He wished me

all

in

I

was

for quite

decided to go

time for the locks into the

my journey,

the best for

"Yacht Iduna,Yacht Iduna,Yacht Iduna this

is

RAF

132

—do

OVER," and before I knew it there was a Sea King helicopterjiying over us! Wow! I spoke to them several times on

you read

us,

was great to see was looking good down there. They

the radio as theyflew around, they said that

and that I

that I was OK, circled

round a Jew times, then did a fly-past at great speed

the noise was momentarily deafening.

It

was

a

it

still

I

.

.

How cool is that!

up by the lock gates at the entrance to closed up Iduna and headed to the supermarket,

evening as

the Caledonian Canal.

.

—

I

tied

from the moorings. By the time I returned I was surprised to see another mast just behind ours. Iduna is small, but this was tiny. It was rare for us to dwarf anything but small rowing dinghies. And the most astonishing thing was that this little thing had sailed over from Sweden. Sebastian, the guy on board her, was tall, which

I'd

slightly

been told

earlier

was not

unkempt and wore

He'd built

far

his boat, Arrandir, in his

bedroom

her out and had to remove a window!

lowing morning and had a great fore going our separate ways.

Caledonian Canal.

It

when home

a leather flying hat

I

took just

sail

at

things got cold.

—

^he

couldn't get

We left Inverness together the fol-

down

the canal to Fort William be-

was astounded by the sheer beauty of the under a week to sail through, and I cher-

ished every minute of it.

July 8th

am realizing today that I am Jar more content alone than I flrst was. I am not worried that I am miles awayjrom home with no one I know. I have Iduna and she has me and together we shall dojustflne. My new home is with me and I have all I need, and more / am very lucky. I

—

62

Ellen MacArthur We*re moored up in Kentallen Bay, a magical place. Tea

on the

and there and maybe

stove,

vegetables,

is

is

complete silence here. Haggis and

I'll

try

baking a cake in the pressure

cookerfor afters. Worth a try I suppose, even if it turns into a

pudding with custard on

—

after all

it's

my birthday today!

Chapter Six

Two

DAYS LATER

we reached Oban. The

saihng from Port Appin at the

mouth of Loch Linnhe had been wonderful.

I

felt like a

character in

We

Swallows and Amazons, exploring hidden caves and secret harbours.

moored Kerrara.

across the bay

from the town

had decided to take

I

a

off a beautiful little island

break for

named

day and catch the train to

a

Edinburgh. Royalist was about to set off for the biggest event of her year, the Tall Ships Race. Virtually every square-rigged ship for thou-

sands of miles around must have gathered for

wave them

it,

and

1

was itching to

off.

Everyone aboard couldn't have been

Royalist

was on

more of a

fine

form, and the colour and noise

contrast to

water-balloon fights with the other ships

thousands of people.

commanding

I

as

they entered the docks, and

had the opportunity to

officer of the Sea Cadets,

taking a job with

alone on /Juna. There were

life

them

as a

who

yacht skipper.

talk to Barry Mattey, the

raised the possibility of I'd

everyone on board that the thought of being an

my

had such great fun with official

part of the orga-

was appealing. There were courses taking place on the Sea Cadets' smaller yachts later in the year, and I had to think about what I was going to do next. It had been wonderful to see friends again, and a

nization

me wished could be sailing off with them. This as my mind returned to my own journey. From Oban

small part of

melted away, to

make

it

to

Southampton

I

soon I

had

for the boat show.

63

64

Ellen Mac Arthur

From Kcrrara we

sailed

through the stunning Crinan Canal, then be-

yond to Adrishaig;, Largs, and Troon. 26th July

10S5

I

cannot begin

be sailing alone as Iduna convinced she

aiming

is

what a fantasticfeeling it is to sailing now. She is alive, and I am

to describe is

to please in every way.

We are

in

harmony! She gracefullyfows over the waves parting the water

and leaving just an

at her bows

indent, a slight disturbance at

her stern, the only trace of her presence. God has blessed us with fair winds at last.

We

were out of sight of land for the first time in the voyage as we on the Isle of Man. Rather than making me fearful, this actually filled me with a greater sense of freedom than ever before. sailed for Peel

Iduna and

I

were

off,

and

I

had the most incredible urge just to carry on

south and out across the Atlantic. The day was stunning,

mering along, and

it felt

of us for the

time.

first

as if the

wind-vane self-steering was

in control

waves that splashed

my

things changed dramatically, however.

We

laughed aloud

I

we were ham-

at the

face.

Just

two hours from Peel

were downwind of the

island,

which normally means

that the sea

flat-

was looking forward to that final blast in flat sea. Then the wind changed direction and started to increase. I reefed down Iduna, as she had begun bouncing around in the waves, and struggled to get things sorted quickly. It seemed everything was against us at that moment. As the winds gained strength they were also turning, blowing us away from Peel. We were experiencing extreme catabatic winds as the air funnelled down the island's hills and out to sea. tens behind the shelter of the land.

I

felt

vulnerable but

tle it out.

I

knew we were just going to have

The waves grew

dramatically, and

to change course and head for Ireland

Iduna it

s

feared

on one tack,

as the

propeller it

as

we changed

wave the engine would scream

water disappeared below

came out of

it.

in

on and bat-

we might even

safety.

engine to help us claw towards the harbour, but

tried to stop and start a

—

I

and

to hang

have

I

tried running

I

could only run

the water on the other.

tacks, but each time

we

fell

I

down

complaint as the resistance from the

Taking On the It

was the big

only two hours,

I

test for Iduna

learned a

World

65

and me, and although the ordeal lasted

lot.

27th July

Iduna and I belong

together. She provides

shelter while I give her direction

me

home and

and adventure. Ifeel proud

be associated with such a wonderful yacht.

have abandoned her

with a

like they did?

She

is

to

How could anyone

willing to please if

me through rough and up, maybe tested me a little, but we

given half a chance. She has carried

smooth. She has never given

held our own.

Mv

excitement rose

as

we headed down towards Anglesey and

Strait. The met by my Port Dinorwic, where I would be

pared for our passage of the Menai

goal was

friend Sarah and her

and dad, and then, the day after, by my own family. I was looking forward to seeing Sarah but found did not feel in holiday

mode,

as

enjoyed our time together, but

—

I

I

could not get

did feel a

mum

difficult to relax.

my mind

little bit

probably could have done with letting

it

pre-

to arrive safely in

outside

I

off the trip.

1

was

a

it all. It

down my hair!

shame I It was similar when Mum and Dad arrived the following day vsdth Ferg and Mac. I wanted to see them and to introduce them to my world, but I also felt distracted. I was definitely not my normal self and was still too absorbed in my trip. Dad, having just retired from teaching, was more relaxed than I'd seen him in years. I was tired, and concentrating hard on not making mistakes. My focus was on making sure that Iduna was OK. I had set out to make it round Britain, and that was what preoccupied me.

My family had come out to have a holiday, but

I

was working.

and enjoy myself but failed miserably. After just one day in Port Dinorvsdc I decided to continue to the next Aberdaron Bay. We had chosen it on Graham's recomscheduled stop

I

tried hard to relax

—

mendation,

as

he holidayed there every

year.

Mum and Dad had brought

would meet them there. With Aberdaron Bay virtually in sight the wind

their tent

and

I

shifted, forcing us to

spend two hours tacking in towards the beach to reach water shallow enough for anchoring. It was a struggle the wind was all over the place

—

as

it

swept into the bay from around the

hills

and

cliffs

—one moment

Ellen MacArthur

66

strong, the next verv light, leaving us at the

mercy of the

current.

The

waves picked up by the current were small inshore, but quite vicious, short, and sharp.

We

had agreed that Dad would row out to Iduna

As

I

in the darkness

tacked back and forth in the bay,

of a hi^h skyline to windward, and

waves on the rocks

at the far

anchor here. Slowly

I

s

motion was

could just

it

make out the

silhouette

saw the dark blue- white of breaking in

It

would not be easy

to

towards the beach, watching the

know when

horrible, and

inflatable

dismissed this as a possibility.

I

end of the beach.

edged farther

depth gauge constantly to Iduna

I

I

my

from Port Dinorwic,

din^hv, which he had brought over in the car

though with these waves

in

took

might be shallow enough.

it

all

my

concentration to navigate

her safely in these conditions so close to the land. Preparing her anchor

was

difficult,

and when

on the bottom,

I

I

finally let it fall into the

water and

felt it biting

sighed with relief.

wind was dragging us out of the bay. The deck swayed from side to side as I pulled up the anchor. The wind was stronger now, and the cold was penetrating my wet clothes. I just needed to make sure we were safe for the night, get dried off, and wait But

for I

it

didn't hold, and the

tomorrow's

light.

glanced towards the shore and picked out a tiny torch beam.

It

was

from the village. My heart sank when I realized I was watching Dad and Ferg rowing out towards me. My first reaction was to try to slow our drift by dropping the anchor chain I had just lifted, but it looked as if nothing I could do would stop easy to lose sight of

it

against the lights

from the dinghy. I turned on the engine to try to hold ground, and as we swayed around in the darkness, the howl of the outboard as it was lifted in and out of the water only increased my us from

moving

farther

anxietv.

Dad and Ferg looked so exposed, and not understand why they had come out

I

was

in

afraid for

them.

I

could

such grim conditions. The

would have to row hard to return to land against it. knew they'd come to collect me, but could not leave Iduna tonight, and while part of me loved them for coming, their recklessness frustrated me beyond reason. Soon their faces came into focus, and reached down to them as Dad grabbed at Iduna's sides. Incredibly, he was still wearing shorts. Water sloshed around the bottom of the wind was blowing

off the shore, and they I

I

I

Taking On the was wearing

dinghy, and neither one

a Hfe jacket,

I

World

couldn't contain

67

my

anger.

"What

the bloody hell are you doing out here now?"

"We saw your

signal ... so

"There was no anchor ing,

—I'm

but

call

signal. It's

we came

I

have to move,

shouted.

I

yelled.

out."

too dangerous,

staying here tonight,"

I

"Come back

I

have to re-

in the

morn-

me on the radio first."

"OK."

And with

that one-sided exchange, the little inflatable

down

squeaking up and

was

ended

its

waves against Idunas topsides.Then there

in the

quiet, except for the splashing of the oars

and the noise of the

weather. "Signal

when

you're on the beach,"

I

shouted after them, and

I

sat in a

seemed like hours as I watched the silhouette of the dinghy edging its way to the shore. There was a flash, and I could see figures moving in front of the lights on the beach. They were safe. I hauled up Idunas anchor once more and moved farther along the trance for what

beach to try to

find better holding

things improved.

The anchor seemed

gation lights and

bows. night,

I

climbed

lit

the

little

down below,

ground.

warmth. Though exhausted, tide

might not hold.

I

would change

1

the second attempt

switched off the naviI

attached in her

foraged up forward for dry clothes for the

ones for a wonderful layer of

could not sleep. There was the constant

banging of the wires within Idunas mast

knowing the

I

kerosene lamp, which

my clammy wet

and swapped

On

to hold, so

in a

as she rolled in the

few hours, I worried

waves, and

that the

anchor

couldn't dispel the thought of waking to the sound of

breaking fibreglass

as

her hull was washed up on the island's rocks.

I

Dad and Ferg in the dinghy and had to keep telling myself were OK. In reality Iduna and I were fine, though sitting in uncomfortable waves; I think I'd just been shaken by the dinghy coming

thought of that they

out to meet me.

must have slept eventually, as I stirred when dawn arrived. I clambered on deck, which was covered in dew, and everything was clear. There was still an orange tint in the sky. I sat outside with my jacket wrapped round my shoulders. I looked up at the tents on the hillside and I

recognized our Last night

little

seemed

murky yellow one with

a long

time ago.

the car parked next to

it.

Ellen MacArthur

68

on the beach with Graham and his wife, Penny, but before the sun set, I needed to head back to Iduna. It had been hard seeing everyone in the middle of the trip, and pulling myself away to set sail once a^ain was a wrench. Graham took a photo of all of us on the beach. In it, Mum is looking at me, and, although she obviously is holding back her emotion, her concern is visible. That evening we

ate

all

After passing the spectacular Pembrokeshire coast, for five days in Fishguard,

Mar2;aret, took

me

where

under their

I

stayed becalmed

Dave King's, John and a bed for the first time

close friends of

wing;.

I

stayed in

months and talked to John for hours about his grandfather's experiences on the clipper ships. While there I carefully studied the charts to Solva, an ancient fishing port which was the next stop along the coast. The entrance was tricky, and I would have to dry out Iduna when the tide ebbed, leaving her standing on her keel out of the water, leaning in

against the harbour wall.

on securing Iduna in the harbour, I joined lanTite, of the Solva Boat Owners' Association, and his wife, Joy, for dinner. While we ate, I was concerned for Iduna. I wanted It

was

a

choppy

sail

round to

Solva, but

hour

to be there while she dried out. Half an

me back,

and Joy dropped

she touched the bottom; with a rope attached to the top of her

mast to stop her into

after Ian

falling

away from the quay,

all

seemed

well.

my jogging pants and a T-shirt and slid into my bunk,

water

slip

down

her keel as the tide

fell

away.

Our

I

changed

listening to the

angle began to feel

was sliding away from the wall. I got up moving gingerly to prevent her from slipping farther, and went up the ladder and onto the dockside. I could see that in a few minutes' time her wire rigging would be taking her whole weight as the keel slid farther from the harbour wall. This would wreck her. dashed around looking for a piece of wood to jam between her and the wall to try to keep her upright, but I found none. I ran back, my bare feet stinging on the loose tarmac. Her rigging was already touching the wall. reached out over her and pushed her mast away from the wall. It looked as excessive, however: Iduna slowly,

I

I

though I

I

might be able to hold

tried to

her.

calm myself and assess the situation

hand, the rigging was safe and she had stopped slipping.

knew alized

that I

I

couldn't

had

my

let

go

-I

was stuck

mobile phone

in

my

there.

With

pocket, and

On the one On the other,

clearly.

a I

I

wave of relief I

re-

fumbled to get

it.

Taking On the Don't drop

thought, for God's sake don't drop

it, I

illuminate the screen

without success.

signal.

I

it! I

69

pressed a key to

tried calling the Tites anyway, but

was now well past midnight and getting colder. down, but that was no good as I couldn't reach

It

tried sitting

I

—no

World

far

enough to hold her mast, so I resolved to stand there till about 6 a.m., when the tide would float her once again. I tried counting the stars, then singing songs, frustrated that I could not remember the words to Kylie

must have heard a hundred times. I couldn't help but laugh here I was standing in joggers and a T-shirt, freezing, singing half-remembered snippets of Kylie while I held up a boat. It didn't seem funny for long, though, and I wondered whether the mobile might be worth another try. When I held it as far away as possible, I got a glimmer of a signal. I dialled, held the phone to my ear, and lost it again. I called again and again, knowing full well that even if I could get Ian to answer, I would only be able to shout into the phone at arm's length. Thankfully, the plan worked. At 4 a.m. I saw his headlights

Minogue

—

tracks

I

sweep into view. Ian held Idunas mast while something to wedge her

find

me

into the car and took

me

hull.

Once

back to

this

I

scouted farther afield to

had been done he bundled

his house,

where

I

gratefully slept

for the rest of the night.

Our next fixed rendezvous had now been announced by Graham. Robin Knox -Johnston was to make a TV programme sailing his famous yacht Suhaili from Plymouth to Bristol.

be

a part of

it,

and

I

jumped

at the

I

had been asked

chance.

if

I

wanted to

We now had four weeks be-

we had to be in Southampton for the boat show, and getting to Plymouth by the end of the month seemed realistic. We made good

fore

progress from Solva, sailing into Milford Haven and then making our biggest

hop so

far,

across the British Channel into Padstow.

The early stages of the us, I worked hard on my

crossing passed quickly; with shipping around navigation.

As the sky

lost its azure colour,

it

softened and melted into delicately layered pastels; the water was as

smooth

as glass,

phins joined us.

disturbed only by Idunas I

sat

bow

wave, until a pair of dol-

on the cabin roof and sang out loud. There was

phosphorescence that night, lighting up each

fish like a

through the water, startled by our progress. The alight,

and

to enjoy

it

I

turned off the navigation

at its

most

vivid.

lights for a

dart as

it

fled

bow wave seemed

couple of minutes, just

Ellen Mac Arthur

70

Padstow the following; morning

In

I

woke

to the hustle and bustle of

people, the barking of dogs, and the squeals of children, and

popped mv head out of the hatch

become

a gathering-point for

side began to sway

head appeared instantly

a little,

I

saw that the quiet

after a

The

few minutes

As

how lier,

I

had sailed

1

reflected

I

on the journey so

away mononucleosis seemed,

rather than just eighteen months.

changed.

I

had tied along-

a scruffy-looking

into his tender.

replied as he paddled away to the dockside.

sat in the sun,

far

harbour had

who was quite young, smiled from and when was heading off.

I

I

I

I

sailor,

"Tomorrow morning," answered, as he jumped "Do you want to have dinner on board?" "Cool, thanks,"

little

holidaymakers.The yacht

and

in the hatchway.

and asked where

I

when

was doing everything

I'd

as if that I

far. It

was incredible

experience was years ear-

could not believe

how my life had

ever hoped and had been the recipi-

enormous kindness from virtual strangers. But then I thought of Thea. She was still flat out, suffering from her nervous reaction. I had called her from time to time to discuss where I was, or to let her know what was happening, but she should have been out sailing on Cabaret, as she had done for the past fifteen years. I knew how it felt to be lying unable to do anything each day, and I also knew that it would be as unnatural to Thea as it was to me. The sound of oars brought me back to the present as my new friend returned and invited me aboard. The cabin was dimly lit, and the first things remember seeing were pots and pans, books, and bits of fluffy carpet on the floor. The boat was a mess! In stark contrast to the clutter of the main cabin, the forepeak held the lovingly well-tended items on ent of

I

board. As

two

I

peered into the forward cabin, the setting sun highlighted

thriving cannabis plants.

We

dove into

little oil

lamp

a

Chinese take-out meal and opened beers; and with the

we chatted passionately about He was as chilled out as his boat,

lighting the cozy cabin,

heading out to see the big, wide world.

and we had each other

August 20th

—

St.

in stitches

Ives

till

the early hours of the morning.

—

down when I got up this morning! probably due to bad night and the lack of sleep! Anyway it's now 0922. have spent 20 minutesjiddling withjishing tackle to catch some Felt a bit

—

a

Taking On the World

71

mackerel. The rocking of the boat should do the job!! Not

having much luck though but

the thought that counts I

it's

—

guess. The forecast is crap, and the visibility bad just over one nautical mile. I vi^on't see much of Land's End. Continued Just waiting for a nibble and the tide. fishing and planning

In the end, Land's

house

still felt

like a

fairly

uneventful, but the Longships light-

major turning-point. Since Scotland

my way west to round this rock,

clawing

heading east to that

We

End was

final

I

had been

now we'd done it and were corner. We were on the home stretch. and

arrived in Plymouth on the evening of 22 August, with a great

was so proud as we sailed into Plymouth Harbour, I helm of the Cuttj Sarkl That evening, however, I discovered that my sail with Robin Knox-Johnston aboard Suhaili had been cancelled, and that the filming would not occur. I remember that evening well, sitting on the head of my bunk with a mug of hot chocolate feeling of triumph.

I

could have been

the

at

down

and the rain beginning to come quite excited about meeting

BT/YJA

tion at the

The

forecast

was

outside.

1

suppose

up with Robin properly

awards, and

1

felt

I'd

got myself

our introduc-

after

low about those plans

falling apart.

few days

appalling, too, with gales for the next

—

break in the weather sufficient for departure would take a miracle.

checked

my

days' time.

I

dering what

diary and

it

of the

flag for it

UK,

I

set

I

fell

about making a Uttle card for Nan.

painted in the land and sea, and annotated

I

I

two won-

in

it

did so,

I

a small

with a it. 1

little

finished

our adventures in Scotland, the dolphins, and the

storms on the East Coast. Then as

was

asleep

drew

Plymouth, marking Nan's eightieth birthday next to

off with pictures of

And

that Nan's birthday

might be.

Next morning

map

reminded myself

needed to send her something tomorrow.

I

thought,

1

I

wrote: "So sorry

can be.

I

I

can't

be with you."

could just catch the train and go

up there for a day. Suddenly I became very excited. I rang Mum to ask what everyone was doing, though 1 gave no indication that I might come home. I was determined to try to join them, Sarah agreed to pick me up and take me to the pub where they would be eating. When we moored in Plymouth I'd been struck by two boats branded with company logos. 1 recognized them as 67-foot BT Global Challenge boats. The Challenge was set up by Sir Chay Blyth, famous for his own

Ellen MacArthur

11

solo circumnavigation against the prevailing^ winds and currents.

race crews follow the

same route.

I

Samantha Brewster, having taken part sailing a

had read that

in the last race,

The

woman named

a

was going to be

Challenge boat single-handed around the world.

I

realized that

two moored on the same pontoon as Iduna, only away. watched the commotion on the pontoon, and af-

hers was one of the

about 100 feet ter

my

I

efforts to get Iduna ready for her trip,

I

felt

I

understood

a little

of what was ^oin^ on.

Musto had told me that he was working with Sam on clothing, and he must have said something to her, as she came over for a chat that afternoon. She was small and strong-looking, with a high-energy smile. She was very down to earth and happily took me on board her boat. It made a huge impression on me. As the sun went down I sat in Iduna s cockpit, sipping a mug of hot Brian from

tea.

I

found

it

hard to stop looking in the direction of Sam's boat, and

I

kept thinking about what she was going to be undertaking out there.

Sarah met me

at

Matlock Station and drove

horror there was no sign of the family as

it

was obvious we were

Sarah

left

and

I

let

in the

wrong

to the pub,

up the

place, so

stairs.

could see everyone getting out of the

Mum go into her bedroom

car.

"Ellen!" she cried, and tears in our eyes. It

I

Nan was

had been well worth the

My

I

going

in

my in,

we headed back home. I

heard the sound of

From my bedroom window

I

embarrassed.

I

Suddenly,

I

felt

and decided to follow

She was on

her.

the far side of the bed, getting something from a drawer; as

she looked up, and for a second

where to

There was no point

myself into the house. Soon after

the car engine and dashed

heard

car.

me

thought she was going to

I

walked

in,

faint.

ran round the bed to hug her, both of us with quite speechless as

I

appeared

in the

doorway.

effort.

next log entry was for the following day,

when

I

made

it

back on

board Iduna.

2^/8/9^ 1 328 Back

I

was stuck

in

my world!

in

i^lymouth for

a

further three days. Each morning,

would get the forecast and decide whether or not

it

I

was possible to

Taking On the World

73

was frustrating when each forecast seemed just to hold me back, and we spent another day tied up. I was pretty happy when I fileave.

It

nally could get going again.

—racing another yacht—have IDUNA. THOSE WERE THE MOST bow ECSTATIC!!— EXCITING MINS OF MY LIFE— IDUNA WAS OFF!!! 1700: Speed over ground 6.5

sat in

/ love

7

We had the most incredible time, stopping in ports such as Dartmouth, and Brixham. in

1

was looked

after

Salcombe,

by the Island Cruising Club

Salcombe, welcomed by the glorious castles

at the

mouth of the River

Dart, and built up quite a chatty rapport with Brixham Coastguard on the radio. Each time

know my

I

left a

port and arrived

passage plan, and by the time

I

at

another

I

would

let

them

region, they'd gener-

left their

was sailing around Great Britain. One of them even asked me to send him a postcard from Weymouth. The longest passage along the South Coast was the trek across Lyme Bay to Weymouth, which, although just under 60 miles, seemed like a major crossing for a 21 -foot Corribee. What made the passage even ally

guessed

more

1

tricky

was the rounding of Portland

land leading to a headland. Portland overfalls eral

Bill is

renowned

and terrifying seas in strong winds.

people during the

mind was:

"Sail

trip,

I'd

I

for

its

dangerous

sought advice from sev-

and one piece that particularly stuck in

round the point close enough

rocks with a boathook."

massive natural spit of

Bill, a

that

my

you could touch the

couldn't wait!

Time passed quickly once made a stopover in Poole to

I'd

Weymouth. I few hours, then made an early

rounded the

sleep for a

Bill

and

left

up to Southampton. arrived in Ocean Village and in the grey drizzle tied Iduna alongside the pontoon in our new short-term home. As I stowed away everything down below, I heard the sound of an engine coming start to sail straight

That afternoon

closer.

that

1

I

peered out of

my

hatch just

had been tied up next to Sam's

as the

BT

Global Challenge boat

in Plymouth pulled gently alongside

the dock. There were five or six people on board, and after tying up, one

of them came over to say hello and

tell

fancied popping round for a cup of tea

Nervously

I

climbed on board

a

me

I'd

be more than welcome

if

I

later.

few hours

later, feeling a little self-

Mac Arthur

Ellen

74

conscious.

The

noise of

there feeHng; stupid. "Hello," Tcalled.

Remembering

I

my

feet

didn't

No

echoed, and for a moment,

know whether

space below the cockpit and called one

ant.

A man

I

just stood

to leave or not.

answer.

the layout of Sam's boat,

Creeping back,

I

was stopped

in

my

I

last

peered time.

down

Still

into the living

no answer.

tracks by the grunt of a sleepy gi-

dressed in very unflattering thermals appeared through a

small door just opposite me.

Merfvn

Owen

invitation he

on the

clearly

had been sound asleep, but having extended the

was adamant

that

1

should not leave.

kettle while he got dressed. Five

new man emerged. Merv was tall and well built, with

minutes

He

suggested that

later, as

put

I

the kettle began

to boil, a

est laugh

^iant

you could imagine.

more than prepared

It

wild, curly black hair and the loud-

soon became clear that he was

to give a

tremendous amount.

We

a gentle

got on

mouslv, and he explained that he was in Southampton with the

fa-

BT

Global Challenge because roughly the same time next year he would be skippering one of the boats sailing around the world.

me, had been brought up in the country, but he had not begun sailing until he was eighteen. I talked of Panic Major and Hull and discovered Merv knew Robert Nicker son. He talked of the places he Merv,

like

Open BOC, a

had sailed to and the boats he had sailed on, of skippering

crew

across the Atlantic, of the job he had as shore

for the

gle-handed round-the-world race that stopped in ports.

He'd even

60s sin-

sailed

on 60- and 80-foot multihulls around France and the rest of Europe. lapped it up, and as our conversation unrolled, I learned that Merv now made his living as a yacht designer. One of the designs was in the maI

rina,

and he suggested we take

a look.

Her wide decks and funkycoloured hull gave her an almost dinghy-like appearance. She had no visible cabin like a cruising boat, just a small hatch that went below decks, where there was a tiny bay for a gas stove and four very basic bunks no more than aluminium frames with plastic mesh stretched over them. The rain began to hammer down, so we climbed inside. Merv leaned Maverick was a unique, incredible boat.

—

back against her hull on one of the bunks, right inside,

reasons

and

I

sat

on the

why he designed

as

step, entranced.

Maverick the

he could not even

He began

way he

did,

sit

up-

talking about the

and he described

a

I

Taking On the race

known

as the

Mini Transat. The Mini

is

World

a single-handed transatlantic

race sailed in high-performance boats the same size as Iduna.

nated bv what he told

had been

a

me

and began to think again about

long time since

I'd

had

open so many doors. The Southampton Boat Show got Brian Pilcher whisked

me

one he had ever known.

a conversation

was

I

my next step.

trip so far.

called at

Graham Percy was

It

off to a whirlwind start as Musto's

TV

stations

me

to every-

and show stands and

had lunches during which 1 poured out stories of every adventure

on the

fasci-

which appeared to

away and seemingly introduced

We

75

there, too,

I'd

had

and between them they

up interviews with local radio and TV and the yachting magazines. As they'd promised, the RYA presented me wdth my Yachtmaster Instructor endorsement at the Royal Southampton Yacht Club, and I met up again with the examiners, James Stevens and John Goode. It was odd seeing them on home territory, but I was really pleased to have lived up to their expectations with the miles I had covered on board Iduna. While I was in Southampton I also got back in touch with the Sea Cadets. They'd offered me a week's sailing on one of their smaller yachts out of Gosport immediately after the show. I was unsure whether or not to accept at first, as I was keen to finish the trip, but I knew it might lead to opportunities for the future. I had thoroughly enjoyed every minute set

of sailing on board Royalist, and

I

realized

a

would be crazy not to say yes. moving again

week in Southampton I was week to get as far east as possible before

After a

had

I

back in Gosport. So Iduna and

show and headed

—

itching to get

I

left

joining the Sea Cadets

Southampton before the end of the

for the rising sun.

23rd September 1924 hours. Sailing up Chichester Harbour. Fantastic. Beautiful sunset

—red

sky and complete silence! Amid this

peace and tranquillity, Iduna creams along,Jeeling almost motionless!

28th September

Depart Northney Marina at 0530. Ran aground on way out of Chichester Harbour.Very shittyfeeling! However, clear her.There

was a starboard mark

out.

managed

But an ebbing

to

tide!!

Mac Arthur

Ellen

76

I'm writing this at sea on passage

£10 per night there

—nofree

to

either!

Newhaven justfound out The

cliffs

past Brighton

and

look rustv along the tops! passed one anchored ship

trapped

my thumb when

I

disconnecting the Navik. Looe

Channel was a piece of piss! (right now 1317) Ifeel very keep thinking about Mini Transat, Merv and Maverick.

tired!

After a five-day break sailing with the Sea Cadets, the rest of the trip

passed very quickly. The goal was just making

and

stopped in several ports,

I

taking

in.

it all

I

knew

exactly the right time. tidal river that if

would stand of

it,

but

The

last

got

I

The Humber it

I

it

is

to the

mouth

I

almost stopped

of the

Humber

at

such a fast-flowing and powerful

it

to the marina.

me

before

would be carried back out of the

night was a testing I

that

wrong, even by no more than half an hour,

chance of making

the night crept past

back, and although Iduna

was so focused

had to make

the tide turned against

if

lock gates,

little

I

I

it

sail,

was grateful

and

it

I

I

made

I

could be in sight it

through those

river.

passed slowly and foggily. As

that the fog

was

lifting bit

by

bit,

and

I

was relieved to be able to see the lights of the ships once again. I smiled, then laughed out loud at 0257 when I heard the familiar voices of VTS Humber on the radio. I knew I was home. As the dawn broke on 1 2 October, the most incredible light was shining through the light mist and gradually crept up into the sky. Every-

thing

seemed

was covering

tinted with silver, almost as though a blanket of moonlight us.

Iduna was sailing perfectly, heeling over and making

good speed, the muddy Humber waters once again washing past her tiny hull. I picked out those all-too-memorable sights on the skyline as we sailed along the huge Tetney Monobuoy, Grimsby dock tower, and the structure of the Immingham oil terminal. As we crept past each buoy it flashed us, and picked out its name. felt as though I was being silently welcomed back. All my friends from Hull as well as my family, including Nan, were there to see me in. There were cameras and journalists, and Robert had come down with a bottle of champagne. shall never forget Nan's smile as she came up to give me a kiss; she seemed so proud. I was surprised by my reaction to seeing Mum and Dad, too. Of course I was excited, but at the same time it felt as though the spcU had been broken. had

—

I

I

I

I

Taking On the been desperately looking forward to

pened

since

I

left,

but

now

I

felt

After a day of celebration evening.

it

numb

telling

that

it

over.

Mum

Mum had asked if I'd return home, but

and Dad leave that

had to

I

stay in Hull. In

forty-eight hours I'd be joining the Sea Cadets again. Royalist

Dundee, and As the sun

I'd

be

sailing

77

everyone what had hap-

was

was sad to see

World

was

in

her south to Great Yarmouth over two weeks.

set that evening,

1

wandered back down from the Nautical

School to Iduna. She seemed so peaceful

pontoon, the radar reflector

as she sat there alongside the

hanging in her rigging, her starboard

still

spreader slightly drooping with the load. over, lass, thank you,"

"It's

1

whispered quietly

as

I

rubbed her dewy

cabin top.

went up to the marina bar for tea and joined David and his new crew for his weekend sailing course. The familiarity of the scene was reassuring, but 1 knew that I'd changed. 1 was still the same person, but now I could see farther. The trip had broadened my horizons and intensified my need to explore them further. 1 thought about Merv and the Mini Transat, and about the Sea Cadets and the wonderful work they do. 1 That night

didn't

I

know which way

to head yet, but

was not going to be happy

1

realized at that

visiting that bar

moment

that

I

every night for the next thirty

years.

On that trip going to give

marina

around

Britain,

my

just

it

in Hull.

all,

I

grew

up.

When

1

set

out to do

hoping that we would make

it

back into the

else

had enjoyed the company of people whose

openness and generosity never ceased to amaze me. But deep

sary,

even

—

if

was

had seen the most beautiful, memorable places, and

I

more than anything was driven

it I

down

I

driven not to remain in a place longer than was neces-

great people had invited

me

to stay.

I

found myself frus-

on so many occasions I was sailing slowly, or that the winds had simply not come and we'd had to motor. I forced myself to make decisions I'd never taken before. I had sole responsibility for myself and for every move we made. 1 knew now that there are no magic methods of making a situation better; you just have to stay calm, do all you can, and believe that things will improve. Sitting at home alone, you can't anticipate that feeling. It's not just the fact that you are on your own, but trated that

the safety decisions: do

—

ably right answer

I

go or do

I

wait? There

is

never an unquestion-

except, of course, with hindsight.

Ellen Mac Arthur

78

When

listen to

I

my tapes

of that trip

I

hear such intense unease in

my

Onlv now can I understand why I was stressed. There's such a contrast between the hi^hs and the lows: can hear such desperate anger in my voice when conditions were not as they had been predicted, when I was soaked to the bone, hand-steering because the autopilots would

voice.

I

At eighteen you look for someone or something else to blame, but I grew to realize that there is no one to blame, that anything can happen and the reasons can never be completely anticipated.

work

not

properly.

Preparation can eliminate so

much

is

some but never

the unpredictable, and

it's

all

of these problems, because

the unpredictable that you have to

learn to handle with flexibility and pragmatism. You simply have to take it

in I

your

stride.

can see the differences in

me then, but

1

can see the similarities, too.

was learning to be philosophical when plans have to change, and I was beginning to realize the extent to which altered plans can and will happen. Good and bad will be thrown up in equal measure, and while enI

joying the former

is

easy,

you

can't let the latter drag

you down.

Chapter Se ven

In

Dundee I immediately

home back aboard

felt at

Royalist.

The

sunrise

was stunning, with the wisps of cloud forming ornate silhouettes beautiful orange sky, and the water tiny craft

deck,

I

was

still

as

we

in the

slipped along past the

dwarfed by our imposing presence. Standing there on

Royalist's

had responsibility, shared with the rest of the crew, for the Sea

Cadets on board. I

how

loved seeing

with

they grew in confidence over the

—from

was constantly rewarding

us. It

the

initial

week they were days when they

considered peeling potatoes in the morning as purgatory, to the end of the week,

What

when we found them as

it.

me

was not so much how the week would bring how it made them realize the value of their own con-

always struck

people together

singing and joking while they did

tributions.

At the end of the barked. the

We

first

week we

next

leg,

way from Hartlepool

weather at a

sailed the

—

a

to

said

goodbye

as a

new group em-

though, in very different conditions.

Lowestoft

we were

On

stuck in difficult

much-stronger-than-predicted southeasterly which peaked

Force 9 gale. The North Sea

that get short

is

relatively shallow, resulting in

and steep very quickly. The motion aboard

waves

Royalist

was

dreadful as she pitched and rolled. Each time she punched into a wave, spray and water hurtled over her decks. sure that the kids

made

who were

a dash for the rail

It

was

a constant job to

make

were harnessed to the boat as they and threw up into the churning water. Royalist off watch

79

Mac Arthur

Ellen

80

was unable to sail into the wind in those conditions. The result was that we had to motor, and even that was a struggle, as we managed only a few knots before the ni^ht closed in on us, the sky appearing barely high enough to let our masts pass beneath it. I had never before been at sea in foaming crests such bad weather, and I was fascinated by its wildness

—

my

crashed again and again as they passed the porthole next to

bunk,

and the world outside was submerged with each roll. Adrenalin surged as I woke from a difficult sleep to the sound of the fire

alarm.

sprang from

I

made my way

guisher, and

hatches,

all

my

my jacket

bunk, grabbed

to the deck.

The

kids

and the

extin-

fire

were flowing out of the

wearing their harnesses, and were calmly marching to their

Some, already green with sea- sickness, now had anxiety etched on their faces. We soon tracked down the problem: smoke and steam from the port engine, which had begun overheating. We shut it down but were now in danger of not making our destination at all, as we

muster

stations.

could only just creep forward. As a precaution, in

an attempt to secure the boat in

made

We

the anchor

position while an assessment was

its

of the damage and needed repairs.

had to wait several hours for the engine to cool before Dave, the

engineer, could attempt to

my

we lowered

offer to assist

we were

fix it,

and

him was accepted.

as

it

looked

like

an

awkward

anchor was dragging, and

Royalist's

starting to drift slowly towards a nearby gas field. Luckily

able to restrain her

enough to keep us

job,

safe while

we worked on

I

was

the en-

gine.

Dave and

I

climbed

down

into the engine

room;

tertight door, the heat surged into our faces.

of cool, sweet

air

I

as

took

he opened the wa-

my

last

deep breath

and clambered inside the diesel-smelling sauna. Every

creak and groan from Royalist's structure seemed amplified

and certainly made the situation

The problem was with

feel

more urgent than

it

down

there

actually was.

the water-cooling impeller, which, because of

the location of the engine mount, was very

difficult to access.

1

lay

on the

engine, stretching to reach the impeller cover, while Dave slid beneath

it

from below. The heat was extreme, and I had to move every few seconds to shift the hot spots and remain bearably

to get to the bolts slightly

comfortable

as

our bodies rocked back and forth with the boat's contin-

ued violent motion. sickness, but

I

am

I

am

fortunate that

sure that

if

ever

it

I

have never suffered from sea-

was going to happen,

that

would

Taking On the have been the time. Sweat streamed later

we

finished the job,

World

down our faces, but around

81

an horn-

and Dave tentatively started the engine.

Upon

emerging back on deck, thankful the job was done, we realized it was we still had the anchor to get up and were now approach-

not over yet;

ing the exclusion zone around one of the rigs in a gas field. get out of there.

And

It

was time to

so began the laborious task of bringing in the an-

which seemed unusually slow and difficult. The hydraulics would winch when the bow was falling into the trough after a wave passed only beneath us. The bow then seemed heavy as Royalist began to climb the next wall of breaking surf; as the two met, the sea exploded over us, chor,

sluicing unyielding walls of water

down

along the deck.

Eventually the final feet of chain appeared and then the anchor

emerged at the surface, but they were not alone; we also had an old cable which we must have dragged from the seabed. With skill and a few years' knowledge, Paul, the skipper, managed to flip the anchor, using the trip point at just the right

bow popped up

like a

moment

rubber duck in

to release the cable. Royalist's

a bath,

and once more

we were

able to ride over rather than through the waves, continuing our passage to Lowestoft.

Ashore

in

Lowestoft

swered, said that I

at the

end of my

trip,

I

phoned home. Lewis

an-

Mum and Dad were out, and told me to call back later.

couldn't linger on the phone and got no hint of what was to come.

from the train on the way south. 1 was bursting to tell them all that had happened on Royalist, but my enthusiasm evaporated the second I heard Mum's voice. It sounded empty. I

called again that afternoon,

"What's happened.

Mum?" I

asked.

"Your dad's had an accident. Don't worry, at

home

we

think he's

OK;

he's here

now."

She continued, explaining what had happened. At the weekend,

had offered to chop off a few branches from the trees

Dad

in the school car

While working with his chainsaw, he was struck in the chest by a branch that knocked him out of the tree. He must have fallen about 20 feet onto rocky ground. Luckily someone ran to help him, but in typical, stubborn-Dad fashion, he said he was fine, just winded. This was the same Dad, after all, who had dropped lump hammers on his head and had fallen through ceilings. But he wasn't OK, and an ambu-

park.

falling

Ellen MacArthlir

82

lance was called anyway. Finding nothing other than bruising after he'd

been X-raved, the hospital sent him home, but he couldn't walk and tually

crawled into the car

vir-

Mum came to pick him up.

when

That evening; Uncle Glyn, the local GP, quickly discovered that Dad

had

lost

some of the

he was X-rayed again. The

tal

On re-admission to hospi-

feeling in his lower body. first

smashed one of his vertebrae.

X-ray had missed the

was now thought

It

fact that

sufficiently

he had

worrying

him to be sent immediately to Sheffield Spinal Unit, where for three months he remained strapped to a bed, unable to move his back in any wav. It was a real shock to see him looking pale, helpless, and in pain in a hospital bed. He was always such an active, healthy character. Throughout his ordeal, he showed no anger, or at least not in front of his children, but it must have been a real trial for him. A day had never passed without Dad having worked in some way outdoors. He could see trees outside his hospital window, and they reminded me of how much it helped me when I was ill to look outside at the eucalyptus. I was glad he for

could see trees too.

That year, 1995, was horrible, and Mum really bore the brunt of it. She's the most honest and gentle person have ever known and has endless reserves of patience. She seemed to be carrying the world on her I

shoulders that year, getting from

,

and

me. As well

she was helping

Lew

acutely aware of

felt

I

as

how

little

help she was

handling the aftermath of Dad's accident,

to decide about his future. By this stage he'd

dropped out of university and was struggling to cope with the added pressure of Dad's accident. And the illness that had marred Nan's uni-

Germany was diagnosed

form of fibrous cancer in her lungs, which had led to mild pneumonia. Mum was taking meals to her each day and trying to look after her, but her burden didn't stop there. She also was still caring for Thea, who by now had moved up north into my old bedroom. I'm sure that walks with Mac were pretty versity

exchange

much

the only thing that kept

months.

I

in

told her

I

would

Mum

stay at

best for

my

future.

Although

comfortable decision, and

My own

life at

that time

I

I

still

was

sane through those dreadful

home and

one, but she was adamant that she was

as a

help her look after every-

OK and that

I

decided to carry on look back on a

whirlwind.

it I

should do what was sailing,

it

wasn't a

with uncase.

was

travelling

around the

World

83

had met on the

trip

Taking On the country, writing and answering letters to everyone

who had

and to those

weeks

after

the offshore

my

on

trip

I

was

was

I

I

for

it.

mid-November, just two letter from Barry Mattey,

In

received a

me a post as a small-

of the Sea Cadets, offering

sufficiently

just before Christmas. trip

Royalist,

commander

boat skipper.

me

sponsored

I

tempted to arrange

a

meeting with him

also receiving requests for talks

about

my

with Iduna from various yacht clubs, along with the incredible offer

of a space in the pool

at the

London

Brian Pilcher, once again, was

He encouraged me ters.

I

to

would have run

talk or have a meeting,

value. That

made

a

International Boat Show.

my guide

market myself wisely and to write across the country at

but Brian taught

I

owti expense to give a

to realize that

I

held some

I

little or,

did not have any financial re-

my last savings in trailing Iduna to Derbyshire and was small amount of money from my first painting commis-

had spent

subsisting

on

a

sions, including

December

In

me

my

effective let-

massive difference between having very

worse, nothing. The plain fact was that serves.

through the following weeks.

one of Merv's boat. Global Teamwork. I

met with Barry

Mattey.

I

knew

loved the Sea Cadets

I

wanted to work with the kids, but I couldn't stop thinking about the MiniTransat and single-handed races. I had just seen a long article about the Mini in Yachting World, which I'd read and re-read. I didn't know which way to jump. and

I

I arrived in Portsmouth and, before the meeting, was shown the boat I would be skippering, a Morgan Giles 43 named Petrel. As we walked into the shed, she towered above us. When I went on board, it was obvious that she was very much in refit. Most of her interior had been removed, as fittings were accessed and the engine serviced, but even in this less-

than-perfect state 1

1

could see she was beautiful.

talked about the position with Barry, and with one

allowing

me

to pursue other options,

wrote to accept the job and was due to Still immobilized at the spinal unit.

I

was convinced

start at the

week it

in four off,

could work.

I

end of January.

Dad wasn't around

for Christmas.

Normally, he would have fussed about in the kitchen with

Mum,

or fer-

reted around in the fields for holly and mistletoe to hang in the house.

He

loves Christmas, and his enthusiasm had

Thea managed

to

rubbed

off on his family.

come downstairs on Christmas

Day, even though

84

Ellen MacArthur

Mac, Ferg, and Lew, who seemed to have grown from the responsibihty that came from our father's absence, were also there, and Nan came over. In the evening, we drove to Sheffield to see Dad. Mum, as ever, had been a trouper, and again I felt pain forced her to

guilty

lie flat

about leaving,

on the

floor.

time to head south for the job with the Sea

this

Cadets.

soon our Christmas was over and

All too

prepare for the boat show.

I

knew

the

I

had to go to London to

show would be

a

golden opportu-

meet people who might help me further my sailing career. Each dav of the show I would sit on board Iduna and talk to passersby who showed an interest, or go to functions held by some of the sponsors

nity to

who had helped me get around Britain. spent a lot of time with Brian, who was revelling in the fact that had made it all the way round he I

—

I

enthusiastically about

was talking

I'd invited

break from 1

left

card

to everyone.

it

Mum down to

London in the hope it would be a welcome home, and she came along to the show. One afternoon

life at

her alone briefly with the boat. left

him on

When

returned she handed

I

by someone named Mark Turner. Intrigued,

his stand

but missed him

—

we went

to

me

a

meet

a less-than-successful start to a rela-

was to become one of the most important of my life. We did meet the following day, however. Mark was an athletic-looking guy who I guessed was in his early thirties. He was at the show as an tionship that

employee of a marine company called Spinlock. He had heard that I had done my round-Britain trip single-handed and wanted to talk about the race

Merv and had I

discussed, the MiniTransat. Fluent in French,

had contributed to the

about the Mini

article

had read so avidly and so often. In

it

in Yachting Worlds

one to dodge a challenge, and the Mini in 1997

We

be doing the race,

For the rest of the show increasingly clear.

doubt that

I

I

knew

I

is

not

if

1

decided

I

might

wrestled with a dilemma that had

that

I

had to make

a difficult choice.

I

become began to

could manage further projects alongside the Sea Cadets job.

move

morning

who

talk again.

There was no shortage of reasons why job and

1

became an unbreakable

parted on the understanding that

we would

which

he'd mentioned he might be inter-

ested in doing the race himself. That was enough for Mark,

commitment.

Mark

I

shouldn't just carry on with the

Iduna to the South Coast to live on her in Gosport. But the

after

my

first

meeting with Mark,

I

had woken with

a start.

I

World

Taking On the could sense that burning feeling inside

me

once more, and

deep down that I had to choose racing. I knew from my own trip around Britain that per cent commitment to be successful.

I

lacked

He

it. I

was certain

demands

1

00

couldn't take the Sea Cadets

job without such a commitment, nor would I

a venture

I

85

be able to pursue racing

1

if

needed advice, and once again I turned to Brian. me to clarify things. Although he thought the Sea Cadets

helped

offered a great opportunity to do something in starting

letter to

something to which

I

was not

options had meant

These options

me

wdll allow

handed trans-ocean racing if

my

I'd

at

committed.

drafted a

London Boat Show,

the

come

I

to a decision:

to get a foothold in the short-

field,

which

is

where

my

long-

would be inappropriate to instruct heart could not be 1 00 per cent devoted to

term ambitions Cadets

loved, he saw the danger

entirely

Barry Mattey, explaining that while

my exposure to new

I

lie

.

.

it

.

that task.

I

concluded that

had "a very real opportunity of

1

fulfilling

dreams

my enthusiasm for sailing for some years." hoped with all my heart that Barry would understand. Just four days later. Mum called me to say a letter from Gosport

which have driven I

come

for

grasp

them with both

had

me, and she asked if I wanted her to read it over the phone. I was petrified of what I was going to hear, but asked her to read it nonetheless. Barry began by saying he'd had mixed feelings when he read my letter. He was disappointed that I would not be working with them, but he went on to say, "However I am very pleased for you and if there are any opportunities out there for you as a yachtswoman then

My

relief

hands."

was unbelievable.

have written a

more

I

could not imagine anyone

sensitive or supportive reply.

He

ing that I should be neither too proud nor too shy to plans

went awry

Things

moved

who might

finished

let

by

insist-

them know if my

for any reason in the future.

quickly after the show.

the South Coast, because this

had everything to learn, and

I

needed to make

was the only place

my

I

my home on

could learn to race.

I

limited experience of racing Panic Major

out of Hull only emphasized that.

1

decided that

1

would base Iduna on

Ellen Mac Arthur

86

the Hamble, the river from which

I

me

nation; and yet again Brian helped

me

let

had

my

sailed for

on her trailer for a few months whole new adventure.

a

Meeting Mark

boat show had fired

at the

would were

out, finding a marina that

leave Iduna

about to be2;in

Instructor exami-

my

We

for free.

imagination, and by the

was on my way to the Isle of Wight to see him. He appeared at the door of his office in jeans and a rugby shirt. He smiled as he welcomed me in, but he seemed distracted by other things.

beginning of February

1

followed him up a

got to

"I've just

I

flight

of winding steps.

finish this

—

are

you

OK to wait for a while?"

"No worries," replied. I pulled out the notes had printed on Nan's word processor and sat dovsni at a desk at the side of the room. flicked I

I

1

through

make

few documents and calendars

a

the MiniTransat project

much on my

work over

I

had pulled together to help

the

months ahead.

It

was very

was an ocean race, a transatlantic ocean race. I'd never crossed the Atlantic, and I was desperate to get more experience. 1 read through the two-page agenda I'd prepared. In it list

of "things to do," but

it

were fourteen items meant to show Mark what I personally could bring to any project, but in truth there was little concrete on offer. 11

have a problem in that

1

.

of all I

this,

so

it's

just slightly

am trying to make

make

I'd

a successful

Exclamation marks were a

on paper. list

I

was

a

a living

out

important to get sponsorship!

would be quite happy to belong to

reckon

The

I

a

company!

Do

you

mascot!

common

element

in

any text

I

put

down

bundle of energy, just desperate to get on with things.

read on.

14. Finally

— We must go

sailing together!!

— Who knows,

we might not get on? I

peered over

my

on seeing the view.

window and caught my breath beyond the river, all the way out to the

papers through the I

could see

The navigation marks were flashing in hear the Red Funnel ferry engine as it docked Solent.

the channel, and just a

I

could

few hundred yards

— Taking On the World

87

down

river. Mark was oblivious to all this and was typing away as if his depended on it. Anyone could have walked in and dropped something on his desk, and 1 swear he would not even have noticed, 1 had life

never met anyone so

who seemed

so confident with computers.

many projects going on professionally

collection of posters office,

as well as personally

from the races he had done. He

Mark had

— saw I

his

virtually lived in his

and, seeing the futon on the floor and the duvet in the cupboard,

guessed that he worked some long nights.

how industrious and

It

I

was immediately obvious

dedicated he was.

this job was primarily office-based, he clearly was someone went out there and got on with it. Incredibly, by the age of twenty-one, he had already sailed in the 1989— 90Whitbread Round the World Race. 1 learned that he had been to university in Exeter before joining the Royal Navy, where he stayed for six years but left after feel-

Although

who

just

ing like too small a cog in a big machine.

It turned out that he had raced two-handed Round Britain Race on Merv's boat Maverick when she was fresh from the yard. They had encountered problems and

in

1994

in the

had not done too well, but one thing was certain:

same room

as

someone who had

short-handed ocean It is

that

is

exactly the

same

I

was

sitting in the

interests as

1

did

sailing.

on what it is about short-handed sailing The guys who race single- or two-handed are not necat any specific job on a boat, but they do have to be the

difficult to place a finger

so special.

essarily the best

most resourceful and widely knowledgeable about all aspects of sailing. Unlike racing round buoys in an estuary, short-handers tend to be good on longer events where stamina and the ability to maintain an even level of good performance are more important than flashes of pure brilliance. Above all, there is an unwritten bond that ties the skippers together along with the sea

—

all

realizing

how

they depend upon each

other.

Mark was new

to single -handing and, though very positive,

was

nervous about the prospect of racing in the Mini Transat. We talked about other events using the same boats the Mini Fastnet and Trans- Gascogne the following year and basically just about every Mini clearly

—

race there

was or ever had been. The Mini

mately very rewarding race;

it

hits

home

is

an unforgiving but

hard that you're

sands of miles of open ocean alone in a truly tiny boat.

It's

ulti-

sailing thou-

impossible to

Ellen MacArthur

88

hide from the dangers of the Mini, and tragically there has on average

been one entrant

We on

lost

each time

broke off briefly to eat

until

about 2 a.m.,

guesthouse.

It

a

when he

it's

taken place.

Chinese take-out meal and then worked gave

me a lift in his old Ford Fiesta to my

had been a brief but valuable insight into the

of

life

Mark

Turner.

now and back

home, but he was far from recovered. He had to be very careful moving around and had great difficultv walking. As a result of lying flat for so long, his legs were swollen and uncomfortable, but the hardest part must have been not knowing if the feeling would ever return only time would tell. The rest of us were just relieved to have him back, but it was upsetting to see in his eyes the frustration at not being able to do all he could do previously. But he wouldn't give in, and that spirit kept him positive. I think Mum and Dad were also very conscious that I was in the process of leaving home. They knew now that sailing would be my career, and they had accepted that it was highly unlikely I would ever go to university.

Dad was out

of the spinal unit by

at

—

In

mid-March

clothes,

came

for

my move

south.

I

collected

my

my bike, and the other personal belongings needed to move on I

board Iduna. a full

the day finally

Mum and

I

planned to drive

day organizing everything before

down in

the evening and spend

Mum returned to Derbyshire the

following day.

We

B&B

Hamble and went straight to our memories and with relief at having Dad room. As we laughed at shared home, talked to Mum about her worries. We topped up the tea, and Mum spoke about Nan, Gran, and Lewis. By this stage Lewis was looking at moving down to a different part of the South Coast to live with his new girlfriend; it was wonderful to see him so positive after the disappointment of leaving university. Nan and Gran, though, were very ill: arrived late at our

near the

I

Gran had while

lost a terrific

Dad was

amount of weight and had been

in hospital.

We

at

her worst

had recently learnt that her thyroid was

causing the problem, and at least the diagnosis meant there was possibility of treatment.

Nan, however, was not

only glimmer of positive

news came when the consultant

really improving.

his

way of gently

letting us

know

that

Nan would not get

a

The

the Chest

at

Clinic suggested she return to university to finish her degree,

was

now

I

think

better.

it

For

Taking On the World

89

was the best news possible, and something to get her teeth into once again. She would return in September. Although Mum was happy for her, I couldn't help but feel she was a little apprehensive at having to run Nan to college and back each day. But Mum was Mum, her, though,

it

and she would go on trying to please others

till

she dropped.

We had a frustrating time looking for a marina to berth Iduna. were expensive and much sought after, but her where she'd been sitting on her trailer since ings

ter the

London Boat Show. With each

we

drove in feeling gloomy.

list. I

places to be. There sizes

—some

were

It

sorts

all

If

I

a

marina

brokerage, the bar, and the offices, and it

wasn't the place for us, but

"Hamble Yacht

Services."

The

af-

was going to meet people to race I

simply could not afford

had managed to save just over £2,000

not even cover the mooring fees in

feel that

down

it

with, this had to be one of the best options, but I

brought her

was the most expensive, so certainly seemed like one of the best of boats around, racers and cruisers, all

absolutely enormous.

to keep Iduna here.

could no longer keep

I

we found the fees still out of we reluctantly headed for the

had been told that

marina on the

I

visit,

reach, and, weary at the end of the day, last

Moor-

like this.

at that point

we

I

We

—

that

would

drove past the

couldn't help but

continued on past a sign saying

clinical feeling that

had put us off the

other marinas vanished. There were enormous sheds and another pontoon.

It

was

boats everywhere, in travel across the yard, that

had

a

good

working boat yard. There were so many hoists slung above the ground or chocked up

a hive of activity, a

we

make out

could not even

the other side.

I

now

feeling about this place.

We found the

dock office in a small modular building by the walkway to the pontoon. I knocked on the door, which was slightly ajar. "Come in," said a voice on the other side, and as we entered we were immediby

ately greeted

"How

can

was looking

I

a smile.

help you,

my

love?" he said, and

for an annual berth.

for very long

and

said it'd

He

I

I

didn't keep us hanging for his quote

be £1,000.

I

could have hugged him to say

Though we didn't know it then, Jim was few friends I made on the South Coast.

thanks.

began to explain that

to

become one of the

We returned to Iduna after shopping for essentials in

Southampton.

It

was getting dark now and had been raining on and off for hours. We pulled everything out of the car and put it on board. It suddenly dawned

Ellen Mac Arthur

90

on me that Mum was about to leave. In the half light the yard was grey, damp, and empty except for the two of us standing by the tiny boat and the car. As we hugged goodbye 1 heard the wind whistle through the forest of masts. Mum's door clunked shut for the last time, and I cried as I watched the rear I

lights

of her car vanish in the rain.

climbed on board Iduna, trying to take

my mind

off

Mum's

ture by stowing the remaining gear in the cabin. Everything

depar-

was damp

was exhausted. When the only torch I could find began to die, I decided to get some sleep. My bunk was full of gear which was virtually and

I

wrapped myself as comfortably as possible around the outboard 's propeller on the cabin floor and pulled my sleeplay there on my belongings and hstened to the ing-bag over me. As alien sounds of my new home, I felt more alone than ever before. impossible to move, so

I

I

"You've got to

make

the best of this, kiddo,"

I

whispered, and closed

my

eyes.

weeks in Hamble were difficult as I tried to settle into my new environment and work out how my life in the south was going to take shape. I was shocked at how few people I was meeting. When 1 was in Hull, strangers would come up and introduce themselves and ask what I was up to. In Hamble, it just never happened. The only faces I knew were the guys in the yard and Jim, of course, who was always

The

first

—

happy to have boat with

a

a friendly chat.

I

suppose

a scruffy -looking little 21 -foot

handful of stickers on her side doesn't really look like

next to a stunning collection of pristine race boats. place.

Everyone

else

seemed

not something you can

easily

I

felt

much

very out of

to belong to this boat or that team, and

break

it's

into.

Without company in the evenings, after seeing the sun set along the river I would often walk to the end of the pontoons and sit watching the flashing navigation lights and the water flowing round the boats. Sometimes

I

would even do handstands and cartwheels along the planked

pontoons

—

it

felt fantastic

much time working this release

in

to be able to stretch out after spending so

Idunas cramped cabin. But the freedom to enjoy

was restricted

at the

weekends, when the character of the

yard changed completely. The weekend racers would descend on the lage,

start

vil-

lining the streets with their expensive cars. The commotion would early in the morning. Gaggles of people would file past Iduna while

Taking On the I

her cockpit

sat in

—sometimes

World

91

writing, sometimes reading, hoping

someone might come up and ask if I was free because they were one person down. But that didn't happen. By mid-morning, the pontoons would be silent again while the boats raced before returning in the afternoon everybody rushing in, eager to fill the bars. 1 hated the weekend evenings. Hamble was buzzing, but 1 was never a part of it. Eventually I plucked up the courage to visit a pub in the village where I knew the racing crews hung out, but I felt like a fish out of water. My face must have been beet red as 1 edged my way to the bar, overhearing their tales of the that

—

day's racing.

ple

I

crammed

bought

a

beer and

in alongside

sat at the bar,

me, but

I

felt as

slowly sipping away. Peo-

though

was

I

just observing

what was going on and regretted having come. The high point of the evening occurred when someone I'd seen in the yard came up to buy drinks and recognized me. We spoke briefly before he returned with his drinks to his friends.

human

I

finished

contact.

was weeks before

It

my beer and left, thankful for any friendly

I

got to

sail as

part of a crew racing around the

was organized by Ashley Perrin, with whom I'd made contact after the last boat show when she was described to me as someone who "has a similar determination to yourself." She was planning to compete in the 1997 two-handed Round Britain and Ireland Race, and we'd "cans."

It

stayed in touch.

and

I

We

arranged to meet

remember being

a little fazed

at the

Royal Ocean Racing Club,

by Ashley's confidence; though

over a year younger, she seemed mature for her age and clearly at

home

in the yacht club,

felt

just

quite

which along with the surroundings made

me

feel self-conscious. I

found

role

on

my

first

a boat.

race pretty difficult.

I

wasn't used to playing just one

Everyone on board seemed to know exactly what needed

where it seemed they had been doEvery manoeuvre was like an army drill. It meant

to be done, well trained to the point

ing this

all

their lives.

each person learned a sequence of events in an almost robotic manner,

and the raised voices on board just reinforced the military kind of sailing had never been like

my

pants, using

along,

common

I

was used to

sense and feel.

I

which meant being aware of wind,

dred other things boat

this.

we had

handled things tide,

by the as

the

My

seat of

they came

boat speed, and a hun-

same time. This was very different; on inflexible roles, and I found it difficult to fit in.

all at

specific,

sailing

feeling.

this

Ellen Mac Arthur

92

As the davs rolled bv I worked on my computer, writing new proposals for sponsorships and a newsletter to let people know what was happening to me; for many it must have seemed that I had disappeared off the face of the earth.

I

knew

that

things

if

became

financially impossible

wanted to hold had to try harder

could attempt to get a job as a sailing instructor, but

back on

that. If

I

more

to ^ain experience, contact

portunity

if it

Not lon^

a fair crack

was going to give racing

I

I

I

sponsors, and be ready to grasp an op-

arose.

after returning to Iduna

Channel to Le Havre, shape the year

1

I

from

my first race

Merv that would Hamble for a while,

received a phone-call from

996 completely. Merv had been

BT

preparing his crew for the

mented my meagre

across the English

in

Global Challenge, and had often supple-

rations with food left over

from

his

weekend's

sail-

much more significant. job on an Open 60 which

This time, though, his help was to prove

ing.

He'd recommended

me

had been chartered by

for a preparateur's his friend

"preparateur" meant, and he told

who

prepare racing boats.

My job

would be

Alan Wynne-Thomas.

me

was

it

Merv wanted

to prepare the boat in

a

to

make

sure

Plymouth

Alan Wynne-Thomas,

for the ultimate: the Vendee Globe.

but I'm not sure this.

I

managed

it. I

I

asked what

French term for the people I

tried to

was interested.

for the

Star (Single-handed) Transatlantic Race, then sail her States with her skipper,

I

Europe One

back from the

before getting her ready

sound calm on the phone,

had only dreamt of sailing on a boat

Simply to be around one was

a thrill.

like

—

on 1 June 1 996 exactly twelve months since I had set off to sail around Great Britain. The sun shone as I checked over the boat. There was no sign of Alan on board, so I put my bags in the cockpit and, as Merv had suggested, went to find him in I

arrived in Plymouth a

week

later,

the bar.

Alan was a short, stocky eyes, an infectious grin,

man

with a weathered

and curly brown

hair.

lumberjack shirt and jeans, he did not look

face, a

Wearing

twinkle in his

a red-and-black

in the least bit like a sailor.

I

He was Once Alan and were alone, we began to discuss down. a must have the programme for the boat, newly christened Elan Sifo. asked Alan a hundred questions about his life. He was a natural singlehanded sailor, and at over fifty had a wealth of experience. He seemed to liked

him

instantly.

drink and

sat

laughing with friends in the bar, so I

I

I

grabbed

— World

Taking On the have raced everything across the Atlantic from his

40-foot trimaran, and above

Nicolas, to a

all

93

own 40-footer, yemima

he had already competed in

the Vendee Globe, although the last time he took part had almost led to disaster for him.

We talked and worked on board for the rest of the day before Alan returned

home

to Scotland for the last time before the race.

nize the collection of

check the ropes, depth but as

I

knew

worked.

I

fix

it,

sails

for repair

some of

so

I

I

had to orga-

and replacement, clean the boat,

the electronics. At times

I

was out of

my

sought advice from people in the yard, learning

absolutely loved

it. I

kept reminding myself that Alan was

about to cross the Atlantic and that everything had to be right,

Alan returned from Scotland in time to make racing before in the race.

we

moored her up with

finally

looked out

1

at a

final

preparations for

marina packed

the other boats competing full

of the world's most in-

novative and high-tech ocean-racing boats and felt inspired. Each one

was going to

we

set off across the

North

Atlantic with just

one person on

up Elan Sifo among them, 1 could think only of sprinting off around the marina to look at them all. from Everything about being in Plymouth seemed to seal my fate

board. As

tied

—

the marina tantly, the felt like

ine

1

full

of

people. This was what

had

working

really arrived.

people such

Globe

wanted

me

many

to

1

had to do.

I

was

Alan was the best guy

he would take

for;

club, introducing

vations,

Open

60s and space-age multihulls

me

to the

I

to,

more impor-

in the thick of

it

and

could possibly imag-

team receptions

at the

yacht

of the other skippers and preparateurs

as Yves Parlier, skipper

of the extraordinary Aquitaine Inno-

and Vittorio Malingri, who'd competed in the same Vendee as Alan.

Although we met only

to race with

should give him a

call

him

—

in the

he gave

briefly, Vittorio said that if

Quebec-St.-Malo race

in August,

I I

me his brother's telephone number.

The single-handed racing scene was a small world, and 1 was overwhelmed by how welcoming everyone was. Even the competing skippers seemed really close-knit, and although they were highly competitive, there was no visible hostility among them or their teams. If anything, the opposite was true, as tools were shared happily if a rival was missing something; it was a wonderful atmosphere. I felt embarrassed by my very rudimentary French, which sometimes made communication frustrating in what had become a French-dominated sport.

Ellen Mac Arthur

94

This was never a problem with Gerry Rouffs, a French- Canadian skip-

per who, Hke Alan, was aiming to take part the vear. He, too,

made me

feel at

home

the differences in language and culture

inexperience,

I

was already beginning to

in the

Vendee Globe

later in

immediately. Ironically, despite

among

the teams, and

my own

feel like a part of this incredible

world.

When

start

day arrived

I

think

he went to the clubhouse for

his

time and time again, switching on generator for a

tle

final

was more nervous than Alan, and as final shower, I checked over the boat

I

the electronics and starting the

all

no room

battery charge. There was

Alan was going to be out there for more than two weeks, everything from storms to icebergs to calms.

lit-

for error:

sailing

through

checked through the

1

water and food we'd put on board, the spares, the

fuel; this

was

my

last

chance to make sure everything was ready. I

Mum and Dad if they would come down on the day of the

had asked

start so thev

could see what

now, though

still

trip of

had been doing. Dad was mobile enough

a little unsteady

on

and

his feet,

this

was to be

his first

any distance since his accident. Alan had arranged for them to

watch the

more

I

start

from

stable than a

his friends'

catamaran, which

monohull. They'd seen

me

we thought would be

in Hull

and

sailing Iduna,

wanted them to know that this was where I hoped my future would lie. The weather was beautiful and they couldn't have seen it in a better light. I hoped they shared my pride in

but

this

was completely

different.

I

watching Alan's departure.

He seemed few cheers

as

relaxed as

we

left

we were towed out of the

marina. There were a

the dock, and once clear of the

first

unfurled the headsail. When our towboat departed for

we

slowly headed out to clearer water.

sudden, with just the distant applause

There was

just

It felt

in the

the tension in the air and

few weeks,

I

fired.

the start

still

gun

fired

And

knew

that

one day

and they were

off.

I

all

of a

within range.

although

1

Sifo into a

could feel

would be under wanted to take that same

sense the strain these sailors

start line myself.

Then

wonderfully quiet

marina

we

next customer

time to hug Alan goodbye and jump off Elan

support boat before the ten-minute gun for the next

its

breakwater

—

Chapter Eight

After the start of the progress as often as

I

later

was the

I'd

very well.

I

time

was due

I

went home

to Iduna and followed Alan's

could through the Royal Western Yacht Club in Ply-

mouth. Two weeks first

race,

I

flew to Boston to join

been to America, and in to

Boston

at eight

I

him

for the sail

hadn't timed

home.

my

It

arrival

o'clock in the evening, but

Newport, Rhode Island, was a two-hour drive, and I didn't have a driving licence. Even more cleverly, I'd managed to land on July 4th Independence Day. Well done, I said to myself, as 1 walked rather nervously round to Customs and Immigration. I was fortunate to catch a night bus to Newport.

Alan had had a hard race and finished tenth in

his class. It

had been

eighteen days, eighteen hours, and fourteen seconds since that gun had fired

and

I

had watched him

We had only three

sail

west from Plymouth.

days in America, and they flew by. After restocking

Elan Sifo from the supermarket and making the few necessary repairs,

we

had some time to enjoy ourselves.

hoped to findVittorio to talk about racing with him and his brother, but no luck. I would have to ring when I returned to Europe. And anyway, I needed to see how this still

crossing

went

first.

Our departure was on still

8 July,

my

birthday. Alan took

me

to a bar

on

Newport, not far from the boat. Though now twenty, but we celebrated anyway! too young to drink in America

High Street

was

I'd

in

I

—

95

Ellen Mac Arthur

96

It

was

when we

o'clock

five

departed. The sky was foggy and there

was an air of caution. A hurricane was developing a long way south, but as it was predicted to be five days away, we decided to cross ahead of its was some nervous anticipation of the crossing to did not worry. I felt comfortable with Alan and knew I'd be safe

path. Whilst there

come,

I

with him. rocks as

We saw little

we

of the harbour or coastline, just the

slipped away,

knowing

that

if all

last

went according to

outlying

plan, our

would be the French port of Les Sables d'Olonne. As our stood on the bow. Looking back at Alan across Elan Sifo's enormous deck, I reflected that he would be my only human contact for the next two weeks. We were on our way, and it was next

sig^htin^

world became the ocean,

the best birthday present I

learned

three

I

fast

on the

atively flat,

trip,

through both advice and experience.

I

tall

On day

jumped

masts in the harbour before, and as the sea was at the

chance to

deck completely exhausted;

hang on,

On

could possibly have had.

had to climb to the top of the mast to retrieve the main halyard.

had only been up

to the

I

I

let

alone bring

down

I

let

Alan hoist

had found

it

me up

it. I

I

rel-

returned

hard enough just to

the halyard.

one occasion we

also lost all power to the instruments, including meant that someone had to steer all the time. We took turns trying to work out what was wrong before I discovered that a loose piece of antenna aerial in the pilot compartment had shorted and was fizzing away. It was straightforward to fix but drove home how easily one tiny thing can cause such a massive problem. If it had happened during Alan's race, it probably would have been all over for him nobody can helm for more than a couple of days without a break. Alan and I got on famously, regularly falling into fits of laughter. He had an incredibly engaging way of telling his stories, which left you no option but to laugh as his face slowly broke into a wide smile and he completely over-pronounced his key words in his eagerness to get the point across. would question him endlessly, and he would talk patiently

the autopilot, which

—

I

for hours about his experiences.

Vendee Globe

in

spoke about

1992—93. He had been

Ocean when he was and rolled by

We

a freak

hit

by storm-force winds, and

wave. Asleep

across the cabin, landing

his last

in his

attempt

in fifth position in the

bunk

on the cabin sole

at the

face

was where he woke, choking and gasping for

was

lifted

time, Alan was flung

down air.

his boat

at the

Southern

in bilge water.

That

Although he did not

— Taking On the

know lung.

then, he had broken six ribs, one of

it

A

lesser

He

enough energy to sew

his

a

his sails,

which were badly damaged life

after his roll.

he struggled into Tasmania. His

who could not understand how knows how he did it; I'm not sure he

mystery to the doctors,

body had coped.

does himself. But fact that

his

spent hours lying exhausted, trying to collect

After several weeks of fighting for his

was

which had punctured

97

mortal would have drowned there and then in the bilge

water, but not Alan.

survival

World

it

No

one

really

wasn't just his determination

1

respected;

it

was the

although he had been through what can only be described as a

worst nightmare, he had not only picked himself up but also retained the ambition to get back out there and do

again.

it

I

was so lucky to have

a

him on my first ocean passage. After a week at sea we were caught in the tail-end of Hurricane Bertha, which since our departure had swept up the Florida Keys towards Newport. This was my first real storm at sea, and still have a teacher like

1

vivid

memory

of watching the clear skies disappear quickly behind a

The water changed from bright blue to dark grey, and the evening lost its yellow warmth as it was suffocated by the advancing front. Though afraid of what might happen, I was comforted by Alan's composure. He was alert but relaxed, still effortsolid-looking blanket of black clouds.

lessly

my face.

bringing a smile to

was two days before the storm relented. I was transfixed by the sheer size and power of the waves, and fascinated by the way Elan Sifo would weave her way through them, rarely faltering even under autopiIt

lot.

She would regularly

them, which sent a

slamming uncomfortably into shudder through every one of her 60 feet. I had felt fall

off the waves,

myself stepping up a gear, and though heads,

I

this

was excited and enjoying myself.

I

was

clearly

would helm

time for calm

for hours as

we

sped along, trying to carve our way through the waves. Looking back in

our log book,

which was by

I

saw that

far

my

1

had reached

fastest ever

—

as

a surfing

much

speed of 19.54 knots,

a result of the big

waves

as

40 knots of wind we were experiencing. Even with the tiny triangles of sail we had hoisted, we were flying along. Alan seemed frustrated by the storm and tired of the slamming, whereas I was raring to get back up for my next three -hour watch and was actually revelling in the challenge. One night-time watch when I was sitting on the helm, I realized just how exhausted Alan must be. After all, he had just done alone the

—

Ellen MacArthur

98

three times what we'd been through, and in a race situation. tion,

I

felt

On

reflec-

particularly responsible.

was on watch on the morning when the French coast loomed into view. I knew it was coming but had tried to imagine it wouldn't. When I could make out the chimneys of Les Sables d'Olonne through the gentle I

haze,

couldn't help but feel sad.

I

I

hadn't wanted the trip to end, and

I

toyed with the idea of saying nothing to Alan and turning back out to

Although we had been out there for two weeks and sailed through testing conditions, I had absolutely loved it. We really had sailed across sea.

knew was doing what I'd been born to do. dawn the following day to get back to Scotland,

the Atlantic, and

Alan

left at

I

I

leaving us

with just a few hours the night before to say our goodbyes and collect our thoughts together. It was a still evening with a clear sky, and we sat in the

cockpit chatting for a while before turning into our bunks.

quite inadequate that evening, and

I

desperately wanted to

tell

I

felt

Alan just

how much the trip had meant to me. Too soon by far, it was time to in, and as we stood up to climb below, he reached over to hug me.

turn

"Thanks, kiddo, you've done a great job."

"Thanks too,"

With say

been

said. "It's

tears of joy hidden

more;

world

I

who

in that

by the darkness,

moment,

understood,

it

fantastic."

I

realized that

was Alan.

I

knew if

there was no need to

there was anyone in the

Chapter Nine

I

STAYED IN Les Sables

transatlantic crossing.

the start and finish

d'Olonne

It's

town

a

for a

few days

after

we

finished the

very special place for single-handed

for the

Vendee Globe,

it

sailors.

As

definitely has an aura.

While I was there, something seemed to trigger inside me, and each morning at dawn I'd get up and run to the empty beach, strip down to my underwear, and dive into the sea. I was so happy to be there, so happy with everything in

my

life,

and maybe, even then,

I

was thinking deep

down that I'd be back just four years later to start the Vendee myself. knew at the end of my crossing with Alan that I had to callVittorio's I

brother.

The

start of the

was going to have to get I

still

had to

ing up with

BT

Quebec- St. -Malo was two weeks

my skates

and

I

on.

raise the funds to get

Merv and

later,

out to Canada, though. While catch-

hearing about his preparations for the start of the

Ocean Village, an opportunity arose to make the plane fare. My paintings of the fleet were going down well with the BT crews, and Mike Golding had asked if I could do a large one. The fee was just right, and soon I was on a plane heading back across the Atlantic. I Global Challenge

at

could think of nothing but the race which lay ahead.

maps in the in-flight magazine, looking at the route we would be taking. Though I knew we were sailing out of the St. Lawrence River, I hadn't realized that it would be 600 miles before we cleared its mouth and more than a third of the trip before we sailed past the southeastern tip of Newfoundland. The shortest route from Quebec I

stared for hours at the

99

Ellen MacArthur

100

Channel actually takes you to the north of Newfoundland,

to the Engjlish

and even though we would be keeping; to ing like the transatlantic with Alan.

We

its south, this would be nothwould be venturing into iceberg

territory.

On

arrival

my

cursed myself for not trying harder to learn French dur-

I

on the right bus, but when the bus driver pointed to the various stop names in Quebec, I had no idea which was my destination. I said, "Bateau, bateau de course," and he ing

transat with Alan.

I

managed

to get

nodded, though I'm not sure he understood,

when he

as

signalled that

I

should get off the coach after a journey of several hours, the water was

nowhere

to be seen. After years of family holidays planned with military

precision,

I

felt

I

never visited before

let

spoken to the skipper had no idea

who

—

down the side without so much as

had

else

I

was

sailing

I'd just

flown into a country

an address.

with for

less

On top of that,

than

five

I

I'd

had

minutes and

might be on the boat!

Heading downhill seemed

common

like

sense, and

was relieved to

I

stumble upon the marina after just over an hour's walk. Exhausted and apprehensive,

I

wandered along the busy pontoon

Malingri's boat, Anicaflash, just glad that

I'd

made

it

in search of Vittorio

to the marina before

sunset.

Vittorio had designed and built Anicaflash with his father, the goal be-

compete

ing to

in the

same Vendee

as Alan;

due to steering problems, and then, 3,000 miles away,

Tahiti,

as his

he

failed to finish the race

port of refuge!

He was

tall

and

wild, adventurous eyes, jet-black curly hair, and an almost smile. His brother Enrico,

known

to

ion but was short, strong, and solid.

wild character and was far like a gladiator,

competing

had

in the

more

chose

in true Vittorio fashion,

all

thin,

with

permanent

asToto, had a similar complex-

With

a business career,

he had

a less

organized. Claudio, six feet and built

a gentle, friendly

nature and, as

Mini Transat the following

the boat, he spoke the least English,

year.

which was

a

it

turned out, was

Of all

shame,

the Italians as

I

on

would have

loved to have chatted to him about the Mini. Andrea, a hydrodynamics

expert

who had worked on

several boats' keel forms,

was around the

same age as the rest of the guys but kept pretty much to himself; sult, was more wary of him. Finally there was Giulio, a small,

as a re-

charis-

I

matic lier

man who'd recovered from

an almost crippling accident

career as a freestyle sailboarder. Vittorio explained to

an ear-

in

me

that

we

Taking On the would work while the

World

101

two watches of three, GiuHo and I would be in his watch, other watch would consist of Toto, Andrea, and Claudio. I in

could not wait to get going, and

set

I

about checking lockers and

fittings

under the amused gaze of the crew.

The few days

in

Quebec preparing

Anicaflash for the race

be dominated by stocking up on food

—

seemed

to

fresh coffee, fruit, salami, ba-

con, eggs, tomatoes, garlic, and of course pasta. This was a real eye-

opener for someone

who

who

considered a ketchup sandwich a treat and

thought that racing meant you were only allowed weight- saving,

freeze-dried "fuel," without worrying about

how

it

might

affect

your

soul.

On

our

night ashore

final

drinking beer.

It

was

still

from the cabin entrance. presence of these guys

we

all sat

around

warm, and our I

felt

in the cockpit, talking

faces

lit

by

a faint

glow

happy, truly content, and calm in the

who were making every

glanced around the cabin from

were

and

my

effort to include

sleeping-bag that evening,

me. As I

felt

I I

would develop some very good friendships over the following weeks. Once the stress of the start was over, we began to take in the beauty of the area through which we were sailing. It was unlike anything I had seen before, the gradually widening river with scattered with

We

little villages

its

lush green banks

that turned to clusters of fairy-lights at

which had left us well adrift of the rest of the fleet, but as each of us, one by one, cracked some kind of joke, our spirits lifted and we began to bond more tightly as a team. By morning we were in the lead of the monohulls, though

night.

were demoralized by mistakes

at the start

we had made remarkable progress to catch up with the was reassuring to be back in the match! It was a whole different atmosphere out there in a race situation. We had been in sight of anonly briefly, but

leaders;

it

other boat virtually

all

the time

from the moment we

left,

and the

on the knife edge of pushing as hard as possible, but not too hard, was really tiring. When I had sailed with Alan on Elan Sifo we had used the autopilot virtually all the time, and just steered for fun, but this was different: We were steering for speed, and if that meant spending two or three hours at a time at the helm during your strain of balancing

watch, so be

On

it.

though

I

we

mouth of the

Lawrence Seaway, and alwas looking forward to the Atlantic Ocean once more, I was

day three

left

the

St.

102

Ellen Mac Arthur

sad to see the beauty of the mountains disappear into the distance. the following few davs,

we

Over

passed south of Newfoundland so were not

out in deep water. The Grand Banks and Flemish Cap are renowned for horrendous seas in bad weather, and for the next couple of days, we

would be crossing

it.

14/8/96 (Day 4) Vittorio

made

breakfast, bacon, eggs

Strange day. Toto not too good at

and

all.

toast.

Spent day in bed with

flu-type symptoms. Feverish in the night

We Quebec when

and a painful

back.

maybe caught something in the water in / saw two. It was a fixing the keel. Saw sharks in the evening quiet evening. Our world had shrunk by dusk, as the famous Nevfoundlandfog had arrived.Visibility down to about think he

—

quarter of a mile.

A ship loomed out offog, not toofar away. Light airs, with many sail changes. Hadn't eaten since breakfast, so mixed salad made by Giulio very welcome! Turned in at 2000 after sunset.

Had a

chat with Vittorio about what

Southern Ocean

—

enlightening, but I

it

was

stillfeel I

like in the

have

to

go

there myself.

Our watches were particularly tiring, and could often be helming for hours as Giulio, who did not steer, and Vittorio spent a great deal of time down below communicating and navigating. At the end of my I

watch

I

would

collapse with exhaustion into

my bunk or onto

the floor.

I

soon realized that the two, three, or sometimes four hours of helming I would do on the trot would become quite commonplace, and I relished the challenge.

came on deck after another hard watch at the chart table where he had been studying the charts so closely that he had the Grand Banks imprinted on his forehead. I immediately handed him the helm and dashed to the back of / had wanted to do that for a good two the boat for a pee Vittorio finally

—

hours!

World

Taking On the The

wildlife farther

north in the Atlantic was

like

nothing

I

103

had ever

we crossed we were away from

seen before. We'd seen the albino -looking beluga whales as the

St.

Lawrence entrance, and

the coast.

pilot whales

Now we were seeing massive pods of up to fifty dolphins firing

alongside us, whatever the weather. As

saw several sharks face.

1

we

passed Newfoundland,

we

along just beneath the water's sur-

silently slipping

was hypnotized by the wildlife, looking out across the waves for

any hint of movement, and amazed

when we moved were

gulls

once

still

farther

at

how many

from land and

were around us colder water. Even the sea-

into

species

around, swooping in and out of the waves, their wingtips

a paper- thickness

above the wave tops.

1

wrote

a great deal about the

wildlife during the crossing, just to try to capture the

impact

it

had

made on me. During helming

this

morning

I

had dolphins for over an hour!

In the end there must have been at leastJifty, you could see

them coming from

all directions. About

twenty swam under the

and the rest alongside. As the wavesfell away, they jumped clear, and into the trough of the wave ahead. Giulio took photos bow,

but I couldn't (because helming!^. As the dolphins

left the

water you could see them looking at you, as if to say "Hi, guys, we haven't seen anyone around herefor a while we'll keep

—

you companyfor a bit." From the stern their grey bodies glimmered in the white light of the rising sun ahead; another grey but beautiful day. Life inside the cabin

was not too comfortable, particularly

water-ballast tank holding

pressure leak, leaving Vittorio

its

two tons of water sprang

contents slopping about the

were working away, trying to

hausted after a serious lack of sleep,

and dragged

my

I

fix it

made

after the

a fairly rapid highfloor.

Claudio and

with epoxy resin,

the

most of the

so, ex-

light

winds

sleeping-bag onto what was thankfully a dry deck.

I

had

no more than three hours in three days and had no idea why. I can generally sleep on my head if 1 need to, but I was struggling here. At last, slept

though, with the cool afternoon "Hey, Ellen! Iceberg!"

air

blowing over

my face,

I

fell asleep.

Ellen Mac Arthur

104

I

up and made

leapt

for the leeward side so

1

could look under the

lump of ice, but what greeted me was a colossal ice mountain that had formed into three peaks, two of them the size of skyscrapers. The cold radiated off them as if we had sailed into a fridge. I knew I could never capture anything so dramatic with my disposable camera, so 1 made coffee for everyone while they

boom.

I

expected to see

a small floating

took pictures of each other with the berg

in the

background. By

Claudio and Vittorio had finished repairing the ballast tank, and fully

took

On

my

sleeping-bag

waking,

down

now

grate-

I

to a bunk.

heard bad news. We'd run out of gas, and although

1

we

had spare canisters on board, they had the wrong adaptor and so were completely useless. The prospect of having to do without a cup of tea for the rest of the crossing was bad enough, but the thought of having to try to fashion something cold out of

some of Mum's

all

that pasta

made me wish

I'd

brought

The lesson was well learned, though; since box of her homemade treat! A more significant cause for concern came through on one of the weather faxes. A big storm was on its way. As if that was not enough, we had just discovered that the ballast-tank repair had failed. Once the mess was cleaned up, we faced up to the fact that we would not be able to use flapjack!

then, I've always sailed with a

the ballast system. We had already experienced the problems of handling

no water

Anicaflash with

ballast,

and the lack of that added weight to

help us punch through the waves in a storm would be far worse. That

became more dense and the wind began to build. As the first hint of dawn washed into the sky, I took over the helm wearing the "full metal jacket" of protective gear the conditions would demand. Only my eyes were visible. I was immediately struck by how much harder it was on the helm. We had a lot of sail up, and it was taking all my strength to hold Anicaflash on track as she was taken by the gusts and desperately tried to turn up into wind a boat instinctively wants to do this when overpressed. My arms were throbbing and pains shot

night the clouds

—

through

my

elbows.

arms and using and at it

much

more

—

as

it

my

I

could only relieve the tension by straightening

legs like hydraulic rams. This

hurt,

1

was

in

my

was

element. For the

sailing

first

than 20 knots through the water, and there

on the

time ever, is

I

my

limit,

sailed

nothing to beat

absolutely nothing!

At about 0100 there was

a loud crack, the

speed dropped

instantly.

Taking On the and the helm died.

I

shouted forVittorio,

as

I

didn't dare leave the

The spinnaker halyard had parted, and we had square-foot

sail

World

105

tiller.

3,000-

a 90-foot-long,

dragging in the water.

Everyone was on deck to pull

by bit, over the on deck, we had to retrieve the spinnaker halyard. We only had one, and Vittorio had no choice but to climb the mast to feed in another. I was steering, trying desperately to guard wires, but

in the material, bit

as well as getting the sail

stick to as "rock-solid" a course as possible, but the boat

still

rolled in the

knew would feel horribly magnified at the top of the mast. 1 felt that if made any sort of over-aggressive movement of the helm, 1 risked shaking Vittorio off a danger made more real because he waves, which

I

1

—

had to climb the

final

few

feet without a line to his harness; the only hal-

yard to the top was the one he was to It

was dramatically evident

for each other

how much

and

had only myself to look others.

on

The

for his

after,

fit.

that night just how" responsible

we

trust

On

placed in each other.

now I was worrying far more

but

we were Iduna

I

about the

was more acute when Vittorio was hterally hanging but whether you are helming the boat or making decisions

feeling

life,

at the chart table,

you are doing

it

also for the others

—some

of

whom

enormous responsibility. That night had only been a mild indication of what was to come, as the weather deteriorated further. The hard thing was that the watches were not getting any shorter, and 1 was really beginning to feel it. Anicaflash's steering system is basic, to say the least, as she'd been designed to take a wheel, then crudely modified to be helmed with a tiller. The tiller itself was quite long but almost inaccessible, being close to the deck, so we relied on the tiller extension. On top of that, the steering position was appalling. The only place to sit was in the seat part of a legless plastic chair on the deck, I was too light and my legs were too short, so the chair always slid at the crucial moment, and I would find myself steering on my knees, where I could brace myself against a lip on the hatch. After be sleeping helplessly below^

will

I

felt

twenty minutes of this, with the blood-flow restricted behind I'd lose

the feeling in

my

water which came rushing

feet,

and

down

1

also

my knees,

had no way of stopping the

the deck from sluicing up

my

trouser

would finish a watch soaked beyond my knees and past my elbows. It would always take ten minutes of pins-and-needles hell before I legs.

got

I

my sensation back.

Ellen MacArthur

106

"Therein be some really big ones when the bow just drops awav, trv not tofall down there, but go across said Vittorio as he passed the

and

He

tiller across.

Looking behind was

very, very steep.

then

now immense,

cover of the cuddy. The waves were long,

—and hold

on!"

left for

the

they were

like looking

up

at a mountainside, but jet black fringed with lighter water.The

breakers were also getting bigger, some tumbling in behind, in

Anicaflash 's wake. Within 60 seconds

was soaked completely up

moved

I

to

soon

myfeet

its

icy water. As

were numb, not so much from the

on them! But

butfrom sitting

my body way up inside my

my elbows in

couldfeel the water working

oilies! Very

had surfed, stalled and

I

it's

cold,

tricky to even shift slightly

for relief as this means a moment when you are not 100 per cent ready to react with the tiller. When cramp sets in it's nasty but the helm's more important. The wind died a

little,followed

shortly after by a strong rain squall. The stars disappeared,

and

the sheets of driving rain were illuminated by the

navigation light at the masthead. Through the distorting Perspex window, I could see the figure of Vittorio in the candlelike

glowfrom the cabin

compared

to

lights, clad only in

a yellowfleece,

my total protection. Myfeeling of exposure was

emphasized—

like looking

through a pub window on a

cold,

wet night!

Never before had

I

been

much

in so

without an opportunity to stop and relax.

was

starting to let

me

know.

had

I

with the boat's violent motion, cabin.

it

a

pain from aches and bruises I

was abusing

my body,

and

it

very painful leg and elbow, and

was even harder to get around the

By now^ the normal procedure for eating

in the galley

involved

feet on work-surface edges and head pressed against the cabin roof, and

even that was beginning to hurt. The feeling you have out there of continuous physical exertion

boat from

a

—

gybe on one occasion, you thank

where

strength seconds

I

it.

I

God felt

that you've I

done

it,

was pushing myself

could do no more, then having to find twice that

The wind was now blowing up to 55 knots, the and it whipped the spray horizontally off the tops

later.

top end of Force 10, of the breakers.

that

to such an extent that after saving the

not believing that you physically managed to a point

is

Taking On the

World

107

I'm sitting on the windward bunk, with coldfeet and wet thermals! Giu's put some music on, which

drowned out by the drone of the surf face from the spray that

I

is

occasionally

have so much salt on

itfeels like it's

covered in sand! A cargo

ship has just passed in the other direction.You can only see lightsfor aboutJive seconds in every it is! It

minute

—

even hurts to move about in the cabin

trying to walk

my

that's

—

now

its

how rough like

it's

around in a roUercoaster.

Time OeUhrs.Just suffered a KNOCKDOWN! I was in the windward berth. We were over well past 90 deg,

—

The propeller shaft flew across the cabin, and hit the roof! The prop shaft is 10feet as the skylights went blue

sea, not spray!

long, iVl inches diameter, with a bronze propeller still

attached! It

is

the port side

mounted inside the floor of the

—

it is

boat, right

not in the water because of the drag

down

it

causes there when racing. We really must have been over a long way!!

When falling

roll to well over

sideways down large waves,

it is

possible to

90 degrees without the mast going in the sea.

Our mast was not in! ^although I must check with Toto!) Under my berth cushions were the solar panels, which flew out. My boots hit Giu, and all the remaining vegetables went under the pipe berths down her stbd [starboard] quarter.The weatherfax and electric panel, high on the stbd side, are soaked with bilge water! Something we could have done without! I shall try again to sleep!

As the storm was beginning to on

as usual into the

abate,

I

came out on watch and cUpped

helming position. Toto had

just finished

and was

sit-

me, removing his gloves and passing them to me. Without warning, we were hit by a huge freak gust, and the boat took off unconting behind

trollably. I

yanked the

jammed

tiller

extension towards

against a rim, the handle at

was already

there, reaching

my

me

as

hard

chest. "Toto!"

as 1

I

could, legs

called, but

he

down to grab the tiller extension; we had when the extension ripped away from the

managed to settle her tiller. The boat was now out of control. We both dived towards the tiller and pulled it hard, forcing the wind aft of the beam, and she heeled less

just

Mac Arthur

Ellen

108

and leapt forward through the heavy

waves Hke snow

off the tops of the in

seas.

in a

Spray flew from the

bow and

bHzzard. Both of us knew she was

charge now, the two of us and our passengers helpless against her

We

were going to gybe violently, and we were irrelevant and powerless to stop it. Vitt was up from below now, his face creased in a look of total concern. Almost as if in slow motion, Anicaflasb heeled over on top of us, the boom slamming across the centreline, its massive

plan.

sail

gun for what followed. Suddenly our lives went into fast forward. Before we could even let go of the tiller, Toto and looked forward to see a mountain of water bearing down on us. The boat was already on her crash like a starting

1

side at

90 degrees, her decks

vertical

above us,

waiting for the

like a wall

wave to break into it. I slid down the deck, my feet jamming on the toe rail, which offered a tenuous foothold from which to leap as the wave approached. Almost

soon

as

as

my

feet

stopped

sliding,

grabbed

I

at

the

my

fin-

mainsheet traveller ropes. I

held on with both

fists

clenched, as high up as

could, and as

I

gers gripped tighter around the ropes, the force of the wave hit me, car-

rying drain.

my body away from the deck as tightened my grip on the ropes I

breath away.

I

I

smothering water sucked

my arms

I

scrambled up the

make

to

progress.

I

felt

the air

for Toto,

on

and

as

my face,

didn't

know how

8 feet along the

1

could

feel a

the least of my worries. ing like clockwork.

Once

deck before

toilet

and came to us through the

cockpit edge,

It

over the

struggled until

I

was

red figure clinging

I

was

all

burning sensation

helped Vitt

was not

furl the

its

He had

As in

I

it

was

like a

just above the

hauled myself over the

my

left

knee, but

it

was

genoa, mind and body work-

most of the sail was in the water. stay, we gybed her back and got back

easy, as

the genoa was furled on

—

hatch, which was hull.

right.

hitting the pushpit. Get-

was impossible along the deck

— so he climbed through the level,

his

the

God!

ting back to the cockpit

water

saw

to his waist but signalling to us that he

been swept about

cliff

I

far

all

My next thought

a lungful.

seawater turned to daylight,

to the pushpit. Thank

He was up

and then gulped

using

traveller,

boat was, or even whether heading up promised escape. I

a

my

was completely submerged.

Desperate for breath, strength in

were being sucked down

if

as

Taking On THE on course with the tled, Toto

and

I

autopilot.

gone over

—

fronted the

bucked and spat to the

The was now

force of the sea and

which was

its

109

more

tiller

set-

exten-

commands. As we the pushpit, he would have

autopilot's

hit

and the

a sickening thought,

plastic chair,

down

back had not

said that if his

full

everything seemed a bit

struggled in the fading daylight to relash the

sion while the tiller

worked, Toto

When

World

first

time

I

had

really con-

mortal danger.

tied on,

had been pulled over the

flapping against the stanchions like a cardboard

side. It

box blowing

a street.

Next morning, Toto and

I

discussed the incident.

He had been

in real

when he hit the pushpit, the force of water was so "Any more and ..." He crossed himself. 1 felt for a moment, unable to focus as 1 thought about

trouble and said that

great on his body, that

cold and just stared

what might have been. As WE DREW CLOSER to the French coastline, the houses gradually became more pronounced and the sunlight painted the rocks, trees, and roofs with a warm glow. Many of the houses were built high on the rocky outcrops, narrow and full

of dark vegetation.

A

tall

with pointed roofs and walled gardens

couple of cruising yachts passed

closer, and, shortly after

we

Emerald Line Seacat

the natural shelter of St.-Malo.

gave a long blast on

left

its

as

we drew

crossed the transit of the outer pillars, the

horn, as

if

in recognition of

It

slowed and

our crossing. There

was a great feeling of achievement at that moment, and looking up towards the bridge wdng, I saw the captain raise his arm. I returned the gesture. Without even seeing his face, I knew it was a sincere, meaningful congratulation.

At the

start in

Quebec,

truly great friendships days,

I

felt that

we

all

on

I

had been sure that

this passage,

knew each

and

I

was

I

would develop some

right. After just fifteen

other, cared for each other,

and

really

loved each other. The sea had brought us together, and through our shared experience we'd forged strong bonds which in a normal situation

would have taken years to emerge, if ever. It had been far from an easy trip, but one thing was certain: we'd each finished with something special a small but significant fragment of life which we would treasure

—

forever.

Chapter Ten

month now till Merv set sail, so things were hectic in Southampton. He had had some bad news. Alan Wynne-Thomas had contacted him while was at sea and told him that he wouldn't be

There was

less

than

a

I

racing in the Vendee Globe. Unable to raise the financing, he'd had to pull out

—my

experience of just

first real

how

crucial

it is

to find spon-

sorship.

Merv straight away and could hear the disappointment in his knew how much it had meant to him and felt awful for him. voice. Having just finished my own race, felt particularly aware of what he would miss, and knew nothing could say would change that. There I

called I

1

I

I

was nothing I could

Back

in

offer.

the United Kingdom,

Show and dumped my bags on ing off to find him. to share

it

I'd just

I

went

time for me.

It

to

left

had the best time of my

sail

Merv was

While wandering nize

110

me.

I

and was bursting

still

managed

was great to catch up with him, but watching

was to get out there in

life

incredibly busy, with just

around the world, he

stow their food on board for the race made

met him

Southampton Boat

Global Teamwork, Merv's boat, before go-

with someone. Although

weeks before he

straight to the

me

realize

how

to find

his

team

desperate

I

again. at

the

show

I

spotted yacht designer Nigel Irens.

Plymouth with Alan, but

I

I'd

was nervous he wouldn't recog-

needn't have worried, though

—

as

soon

as

he saw

me

he said

World

Taking On the

He was

hello.

more

man

a big

gentle nature d. We -

with

warm

a

ill

smile and could not have been

wandered over to the boats he was exhibiting,

was bowled over by how beautiful they were, with their low, sleek black hulls, cream decks, and teak rails. Nigel had been designing and sailing for years, winning races himself back in 1983 with boats built and

1

from

He was

his designs.

mance that at

a purist

and loved not only the high-perfor-

racing boats but also the older traditional yachts.

my

age, he too had lived

thirty years before.

firm friend, and

I

From

on

the day

a

I

discovered

20-foot boat on the Hamble, albeit

we met

at the

boat show he became a

think he could justly be described as one of the nicest

guys in the world.

By the time

I

ently about the

returned

finally

home

to Iduna in

who descended at the weekends.

crowds

same desperation to speak to them, nor did found others Still,

who

Hamble,

shared

my

passion and

1

I

feel alone or

I'd

I

felt differ-

did not feel the

excluded.

made some

I

had

close fi-iends.

Merv's imminent departure would be tough, and typically, one of

was to take me around the other boats in the fleet to get painting commissions. I managed about twenty before he sailed, and while not everyone remembered to pay, I'd made enough

his last acts before leaving

money to As

I'd

survive until wdnter.

expected, things

felt

very empty after he'd gone.

used to having him around and cherished that as

had seemed very hard to come

Alan rang to ask

if

I

was interested

the start of the Vendee.

Alan and those quiet

about to

I

his friendship in a place

I

in going to Les Sables

mast.

I

I

was equally sure

made

it

I

that in

was pleased he would the long run he would

it.

Les Sables was packed. When

close to the pontoons,

I

instantly recognized Elan

discovered she had been chartered by a

Catherine Chabaud and renamed Whirlpool

make

for

could do nothing but think of the race that was

On our arrival that grey November day, Si/o's

d'Olonne

My answer was never in doubt!

start, as

have regretted missing

eventually

where

But any sadness soon evaporated,

Alan must have been hurting, but

be there for the

we

had become

reminisced about our experiences in the Transat, but in

moments

start.

by.

I

woman named

when Alan had

to pull out, to

a late entry into the race. The tension was entirely different from what I'd experienced in Quebec, and I think I realized for the first time what these skippers were undertaking. This was in no way a cruise

Ellen MacArthur

112

around the world.

It

was

a race,

and that was going to make one

difficult

whole lot harder. ambled along the pontoons, stopping to look at I was mesmerized as stood on tiptoe to peer into cabins, and examined every every boat. piece of rigging termination in an attempt to learn what was going on in task a

I

I

these guvs' worlds.

smiled

I

at

skippers

knew and sometimes

I

chatted to

them if they had time, reeling at the enormity of the whole event. There were thousands of people around some hailing skippers asking for autographs, some simply watching and talking about the boats to each other, some just touching the hulls of the boats that they knew were about to set off on an almost incomprehensible challenge, a non-stop race around the planet. Englishman Pete Goss was there with his state-

—

of-the-art 50-footer. tired,

chatted briefly with him, and though he looked

he was clearly elated to have made

it,

against the odds, to the start

saw Gerry Rouffs and Tony BuUimore, and Yves Parlier it was fantastic just to watch what space -ship -like Aquitaine

of the race.

with

I

his

I

—

was going on. I

came

Mark Turner on

across

the pontoons, there with Spinlock.We

met only briefly, but it was a reminder of my big question: what next? The following day, watching the boats from a flat by the harbour they sailed away was an emotional experience. before that gun went; for reassurance

I

at

some of the most

difficult

My

heart was pounding

looked over

He had

putting on an admirably brave face.

pragmatic

I

be here

on

window

to watch the tiny

moments.

in four years' time,

that line,

I

I

could not put

1

my

knew

I

I

knew

that winter, at

pressed

that grey seascape.

on what

it

took,

I

my I

face

had to

had to be

it

discussed the future with Nigel.

most of his time in France and was ested in. The Mini Transat seemed I

on

I

as

would be the ultimate.

it

After returning home,

though

who was

was about the Vendee window watching a cold and open

finger in a

Alan,

wanted to be alone

thought; no matter what

Globe, but back then, standing ocean,

sails

at

an uncanny knack for being

watched the boats disappear into the distance, and

against the

as

I

had to find

new

like the best

a sponsor.

one point taking

land Paris lo discuss a

well aware of the races

me

I

He

spent

was

inter-

immediate option,

al-

Nigel was a wonderful support

with him to a conference

event called simply The Race.

It

at

Disney-

was

a

new

Taking On the concept for competition, using boats of any type, any

size,

ber of crew to race non-stop around the globe. As

I

spotted sailing stars

I

would normally only

felt entirely

me

confidence.

me.

113

and any num-

looked around,

see in magazines.

out that the majority of them were people Nigel had

meeting them

World

I

turned

It

known for years,

so

was not until years later that I wondered what they must have thought of me. I was twenty years old, and probably the youngest person there by at least fifteen years, but Nigel gave

natural to

It

we were approached by a man who introduced Hugh Morrison and asked if we had any plans for dinner. He

Later that evening

himself as

was involved with the business I

Hugh

asked

very quietly through the beginning of the meal, but

Race.

sat

me

lantic crossings,

my mind

that

know

that

side of Disneyland and, indirectly,

it

a question,

and

I

talked feverishly about Iduna,

in particular

was made up

my

—

when

transat-

plans for the MiniTransat.

in the course of that discussion

would change my

my

The

I

little

think did

I

life.

WAS BACK on the South Coast in mid-December 1 996, when 1 began my first-ever official job working at a boat yard. At the Southampton Boat Show, I'd been approached by Mark Orr, general manager for Bowman Yachts in Southampton. He had worked with Pete Goss, who had just left on the Vendee Globe, and, having watched Pete's struggle to get to that start line, wanted to help others do the same. He offered me a job at Bowman primarily so I could earn some money, but also so I could have the use of the office facilities after hours. The yard, with its large boat sheds and complete woodwork shop, had been there for years. Bowman's reputation was based on tradition and quality, employing many craftsmen who had been building boats all their lives. After I'd spent a couple of weeks cycling to and fro between Hamble I

and Southampton, Mark suggested

bring Iduna to the boat yard and

own pontoon. This made

moor

her on Bowman's

and

was able to use the

I

I

office in the evenings

longer hours possible,

both for warmth and for

writing letters to seek sponsorships.

Often the

electricity cable

running to Iduna would

self to I

out

at night,

would resign myhaving no heater and ice on the decks, and waking with freezing exhausted myself during that time in the yard. I was still getting

and rather than climb back up the long rusty ladder, feet.

trip

1

Mac Arthur

Ellen

114

up

6 A.M., writing letters or planning before everyone came

at

working; as

many hours

as possible at

in the offices at

morning, trying to write as possible for the

I

many

as

following day.

I

many envelopes wander down the yard,

would

finally

as

the buildings, clutching another pile of mail, hoping the next

away from

day might bring a reply from someone.

I

still

wince when

I

think of the

posted letters bearing stamps worth £300. The reality was that

day

I

was

a fairly

at

three, or four in the

and address

letters

then

in,

enough money letters. I would then

to earn

was buying to mail my night, sometimes until two,

for the batches of stamps

work

Bowman's

The me.

grim

life,

although

1

knew

that he

time

I

didn't see

it

up with Mark Turner was

possibility of teaming

eral times

at the

was searching

for a sponsor,

it

that way.

still

nagging away

and we'd talked sev-

about working together.

At the London Boat Show

mount work with someone I

going to try to

in January

had

I

a challenge in the

a decision to

make. Was

I

Mini Transat alone or try to

knew? Everyone I talked to spoke very highly of Mark. This was reinforced by what Merv had said after Mark had raced his boat Maverick in her maiden event. Brian Pilcher once again acted as a sounding-board. I trusted him implicitly, and he could usually reason away my worries in no time. With this issue, though, we were struggling. explained that I was worried about jumping in with somehardly

I

one if

I

else,

I

knew my own

strengths and weaknesses, but

also

knew

that

decided to go with something, unless things went seriously wrong,

then

I

sion.

I

would

knew

stick

that

with

it,

and

we would be

did not want to

I

have an incredible

dustry, though,

and had already

in a

to have to raise twice as

decision,

it

decided to go for

businesslike, he too

it,

— almost

and although

seemed

the

wrong

for our in the

deci-

we had I

think

like I

discussed I

knew

marriage,

I

two en-

marine

tried, albeit unsuccessfully, to

to our mutual benefit.

wouldn't be easy

much money

number of contacts

Mini race the year before, when

work together

make

stronger as a team, but at the same time

we were going tries. Mark did

I

I

compete

how we

that

in-

could

whatever the

guessed.

found Mark's reaction incredibly

to get a boost

from the partnership

project.

team up with Mark, my strongest memories of the London Boat Show were of the stories that emerged from the Vendee Globe. The previous month Isabelle Autissier I^ul

despite the importance of the decision to

had

Mmped

into

Cape Town with

a

broken rudder, but

now

people

I

had

Taking On the

my own

seen with

World

eyes just weeks before were clinging to

life

lis

deep

in

Tony Bullimore and Thierry Dubois had both turned upside down, and no one knew whether Tony was alive and on the Southern Ocean.

who was

board, in contrast to Thierry, ing to his upturned hull.

We

waiting for rescue

literally cling-

had already seen the dramatic rescue of

Raphael Dinelli by Pete Goss shortly after Christmas, and

we were

lucky enough also to see the rescues of both Thierry and Tony. But less

pubhcized

in the

cember from Gerry Rouffs on board Groupe diverted to his

fleet

be found. The

last

sailing

LGII. Several boats

world hung on, hoping Gerry would miraculously

when the wreck of his boat was He remains sorely missed. few weeks

ship

by taking

France

trip to

and to get

July,

Mark and I forged our new

partner-

France to see which Minis might be

Even

a greater sense of the scene.

today,

very

the "all-time guru" of Minis.

when

7

much the heart of the Mini Transat. We were to meet Fangent, who ran a yard, AM CO, and whom Mark described as

is

Thierry

weekend

a

1

spotted by a ship off the coast of Chile.

after the boat show,

me

available for

from the

reported position, but no trace of the boat could

reappear, but the tragic reality of his death was confirmed on

A

far

UK was the loss of ARGOS transmission on 7 De-

Mark

talked about his

first visit

to the yard

he'd unsuccessfully tried to compete in a Mini race the previous

could tell that he was frustrated at not having pulled it off, and was being channelled into getting this season right. There was something about Mark, some inner drive which pushed him to do everything

June.

I

this

he did

as well as

his downfall, as

things.

He was

he possibly could.

—

the

life

I

was sure

this

was

also in a small

way

he would work himself into the ground to complete

also a risk- taker, to a far greater extent than

I,

though

I

my neck on the line had chosen was not going to fall into my lap. asked Mark

was beginning to too

1

realize that

I

would have

to stick

I

questions about his childhood, trying to find out what

—

made him

tick.

I

many ways we had a lot in common ^his parents sounded down to earth, and I sensed that we'd had a similar upbringing. But knew deep down that there were some fundamental differences. Of course, back then many of these stemmed from my own lack of experi-

felt that in

quite I

ence and exposure to the big, wide world, in contrast to Mark's early

navy career.

I

must have been

a

nightmare to be around, continually ask-

ing questions about anything to do wdth the Minis, the ocean-racing

Ellen MacArthur

116

and Mark's career. As

fleets,

we drew

into

AMCO's

car park,

I

don't

think there had been five minutes' silence during the whole journey.

Not speaking French, a^ain wished that

1

helpless once we'd arrived and once

felt fairly

I

had devoted time to learning the language. Mark,

though, appeared fluent, and he spoke with confidence. Thierry was

and wirv, with piercing eyes and

a

mop

of tightly curled black

stood talking to

Mark with a half- smoked, unht roll-up

warv

he seemed to be keeping us

at first, as

at

tall

He

hair.

in his hand.

I

was

arm's length, and their

conversation appeared to be going round in circles. Eventually, though,

Thierrv reached down,

door

He took

in his office.

way of

shed

a

Transat boats.

I

had to hold

grinned

at

dark and dusty corridor, and

a

When

resin.

my breath; we were

Mark, then up

smiling back. In that instant

—from

down

my

at

I

in-

Thierry

standing in the door-

100 feet long and 50 feet wide

at least I

us

and wandered over to another

fumes of acetone and epoxy

stantly smelt the

opened the door

relit his roll-up,

—

of Mini

full

Thierry, elated to see

him

understanding of Thierry's character

who quite rightly did not want to waste time letting his shed be used as a museum into someone proud and passionate about what he was doing. He became a comrade. changed

I

being a cool Breton

wandered around the shed,

hulls,

won

running

in

and out of the keels, looking up

my fingers along them.

the previous race, and Thierry's

I

at the

could see Omapi, the boat that had

own

151 which finished second, ,

sat

looking immaculate in her cradle. But there was also another boat, looking back at

me

as

ered in painted

1

looked

fish scales

at her.

She was distinctive, her entire hull cov-

and her

bow

decorated with eyes and a mouth;

name was Le Poisson. Without having so much as set foot on board, knew that had just found the boat I was going to race. It was love at first her

I

—

sight

I

1

literally.

MADE MY DECISION

home.

It

that

was grinding

toiling in the offices

all

I

had to leave

me down,

Bowman Yachts when

trying to

work

in the

night, although the big plus

was

yard

that

1

1

returned

all

day and

was manag-

some money. But during our trip to France, Mark had talked to me about working for him on his boat for the Mini, which he was completely refitting, and when he offered to pay me £5 per hour, decided to ing to save

I

run with

it.

Within

a

week of arriving back

in

Hamble, and

at Nigel's

suggestion,

I

Taking On the

World

117

moved up in the property world, I rented a 12-by-9-foot modular shed and moved most of /Juna's contents into it. I needed a land-line to make phone-calls to potential sponsors, as

my mobile

calls

were proving

finan-

cially crippling.

bought a scrap of carpet and the cheapest futon

I

plugged in the sandwich-maker and

kettle.

had to carry bottles across the yard, but in the world. After

all, 1

I

had a heater and

I

I

had no running water and

reckoned 1

could find, and

I

I

had the best home

could stand up

—

it

was

pala-

tial!

Working life settled into a pattern. 1 divided my time between workon Mark's boat and phoning companies and preparing documents to try to attract sponsorship. The boat shed was cold, draughty, and empty at night, though the sound of my sanding would keep me company with its echo. Sometimes I would have the radio on, knowing full well that when the DJs went off air, it was time to stop, but I didn't. I just kept at after all, the job had to be done. As I worked on Mark's boat, my it mind would drift off, dreaming about preparing Le Poisson for the race. Then reality would intrude. Don't be stupid, I'd remind myself, you ing

—

haven't even bought her yet.

Occasionally in the evenings and at weekends,

Mark would come over

from Cowes to see how things were going. He would join night

shift.

I

would teach him how

we'd discuss the

latest

me on

the

to laminate fittings onto his mast, and

developments on the boat or any positive contact

had with sponsors, Mark, too, was on the search for sponsorship and

I'd

was sending out proposals to several of his contacts. His situation was different from mine, though. He had begun his struggle being able to buy the boat himself, so he stood more chance of attracting support with

—

a material object als.

a

He was

hope

turned I

—around which borrow money— something knew

to base his propos-

collateral, really

also able to

I

When I'd tried to of my credit rating.

buy

in hell of doing.

down because

I

a

I

didn't have

mobile phone,

don't think

I

I'd

even had one!

applied to organizations such as the Foundation for Sports and the

Arts, and had a meeting with the RoyalYachting Association. That

ing

been

I

morn-

my smartest shirt and trousers and scrubbed myself red-raw get the paint and resin off my skin, but the verdict could not

put on

trying to

have been In fact,

I

more

stark.

was told

I

did not qualify in any

that they

way

for grants or support.

were unable to support single-handed

sailors

118

Ellen Mac Arthur

since I went on my Water ten years before, and I had first dinghy training course on Rutland trained up through their schemes to Yachtmaster Instructor. I couldn't in

any way whatsoever.

had been an

I

RYA member

help but feel disappointed.

number of companies from outside the marine industry, I have come to the conclusion that unless there is a representative within the company with a After approaching a

passion for sailing /racing

am

I

very unlikely to get the

chance to convince the Board that their involvement with this

campaign could provide unique

These range

benefits.

from international and national media coverage to corpo-

(CowesWeek, Martinique, etc.) as well company incentives related to the stimulus of

rate opportunities as internal

adventure

—through

talks

CV), and following the

(see

race, etc.

Funds to support, programmes to follow and schemes to assist are

reason

I

not available for sailing of

write, as

it. I

from

it

really

is

this,

I

can inspire others,

any way,

in this

PLEASE

company which

a

campaign, or

feel that

get in touch ASAR Either

me, write to me, e-mail me or fax me low)^ ^I'd love to arrange a meeting to share a call

I

possible.

might be seriously interested in

that

and others, can

I,

you are involved with or know of

you can help

for this

is

my position is

ladder before

only hope that in doing

showing that If

feel the truth

my own

have to build

climb

I

this kind. It

—

(details belittle

enthu-

siasm!

Although the response to various

letters

was disappointing to

say the

no way given up hope. But before long, the lack of replies made me realize that if I was going to find the money, I was going to have had no income other than the money from to buy the boat first. Mark and I soon realized that it, too, would soon run out. I took my least,

I

had

in

I

—

time-sheet off the wall and stopped counting.

Mark had no money obvious that

either,

we were

in

it

and while

together

I

I

knew

had joined

—we were

as

all

too well that

an employee,

partners.

I

it

was

had to content

Taking On the myself with the sistence,

car to

fact that

and he was

sell.

away since

All

I

still

when my money paying the phone

Mark and I would

talk

ally

me

sub-

ran out, he could pay bill.

I

had no house to

sell,

no

my

in

at the railway station.

through most of the night about our thoughts,

would attempt to make us something to eat food box under the table in the corner. It was usu-

contacts, and ideas, while

from what was

119

had was an old bike that was too knackered even to give

had been vandalized

it

World

I

cheese and rather sickly looking broccoli shoved into the sandwich-

maker. The choices were slim, really

—

it

was

virtually impossible to

keep food without a fridge or to cook without a hot plate or an oven,

week for food. In the not- so -early hours of the morning we would crash out on the futon. I only opened it out when he was there; the rest of the time, I just and

I

left it

hung

limited myself to

I

know many

ally involved,

like a

a

down, and stuck

folded, lay over.

£10

and

I

a

bean-bag under

my

people thought that Mark and

guess in

many ways

feet I

they were right. But

brother— sister relationship than anything

else.

We

where they

were emotionit

was more

were insepara-

bonded together by the burning, sometimes seemingly impossible goal of both making it to the start line of a race. At the end of March 1997, Mark went to France to see Pete Goss and Catherine Chabaud finish their Vendee Globe. He was completely blown over by the intensity of what he saw. When he returned, he described the atmosphere and emotion displayed by the huge crowds that had showed up to see the boats. I wished then that I had been there, and while I'd convinced myself it had been better to stay in the UK, I made a pact wdth myself that I would be there myself in four years' time. The future, while daunting, wasn't all bleak. I had been in touch several times with the owner of Le Poisson and had had a survey carried out on her. There was also, at last, the prospect of a loan from a businessman who'd been a supporter since my trip around Britain. The only condition was that we brand Le Poisson with his company logo. Mark, Brian Pilcher,

ble,

and

I

arranged a meeting to discuss the details and then planned our trip

to France to

buy

her.

The afternoon the

UK,

fall

apart.

I

that I'd arranged for Le Poisson to be trailered

received a fax from

The

slammed my

my

friend's solicitor that

additional terms and conditions

fist

on the desk and sobbed with

were

back to

made my world

just impossible.

frustration.

I

I

couldn't be-

120

Ellen Mac Arthur

lieve

we'd got so

out the amount

far

I

only to have our expectations shot down. The fax set

had to

sell

what

the boat for, and by

date.

It

stated that

they had to remain the prime sponsor, and that the costs of the rebranding had to be covered by

me.

I

was sorely tempted

and to hell with the terms, but of the boat

when

I

knew

I

I

couldn't.

had finished, and to have to

just to sign the thing,

counted on the value

1

sell

her by an arbitrary

date crippled the chances of her holding her value. Selling a boat can rarelv be forced, especially callv built

when

the race for which she'd been specifi-

only occurs every two years.

The following morning, in desperation, looked into borrowing the money some other way and tried to find loan companies that might allow an unguaranteed loan. Things looked likely to get very messy. While was at my lowest ebb, Mum and Dad called to ask how things were coming along, and when I built up the courage to tell them about the loan falling through, it was impossible to mask the disappointment told them I was going to borrow the money and asked if in my voice. they would be prepared to act as guarantors. It was as much of a shock for me to ask them as it must have been for them to hear. I never imagined I would end up in debt, and in fact had always been determined to avoid it. But now I felt I was in a position where it didn't matter any more; needed the money, and hang the consequences. Then Mum and Dad said that between them they could raise £15,000 Dad had been I

I

1

I

—

awarded some compensation

after his accident,

and they said that

in

would be prepared to lend me the money. felt giddy with happiness, while knowing that it wasn't as straightforward for them as the simplicity of the offer had made it sound. I'd boarded the ferry to France still uncertain that I would be able to

these circumstances, they

raise

I

enough money to bring home

ward, thanks to

my

could buy her. As

La Trinite, a

call

I

parents,

Mark Orr

to

critical

faith in

needed

still

was standing just

amount. The belief and

were the next

I

Le Poisson. Despite a massive leap for-

a

saved the day

me

make

that

the outskirts of town.

me

to

go

—

he lent

Mark and my

me

I

in

the final

parents had

shown

stepping-stones towards that dream.

the evening ferry.

waiting for

£2,000 before

few yards away from her owner

That evening, Nigel, the lorry driver, and to

a further

in

It

We

went

I

reached St.-Malo too

to look for a hotel, finding

late

one

in

was dark, and Nigel hovered by the entrance,

with him.

I

looked over

at Le Poisson.

Taking "I'll

on board," 1

stay

In truth,

I

On the World

121

said.

couldn't afford the hotel.

found

1

comfortable place on

a

the cabin floor, put on an extra sweater, and buried myself in an old spinnaker.

I

I

woke up

half frozen, but

1

was over the moon.

MONTH checking over Le Poissons equipment and workmuch as possible before she went into the water. The jobs

SPENT THE NEXT

ing on her as

I

decided to do were those sarily those

my

I

would have

I

—not

could afford and attempt myself

liked to

complete before the race. For

mast was shorter and heavier than the others; and

were to sails,

fit

and

I

my smaller mast.

If

I

changed the mast,

could never afford that.

1

contacts within the marine industry

I

all

the

were proving

a start,

sails

would need

had to stick with what vital; it

I

neces-

had

I

all

new

had. Mark's

was

their trust

which often allowed us to change essential fittings. Hamble life was becoming more enjoyable by now, as 1 had made some friends with guys from a boat preparing for the 1 997 edition of the Whitin us

bread Race. They provided good advice on setting up Le Poissons

beyond

that, they

were

just fun to

be around.

I

rig,

but

was surprised how

friendly they were, and astonished at the difference fi-om others' reactions to

me

only a year before.

me on

Dekker, went out with feeling,

Two

of them, Jez Fanstone and Jan

Le Poissons

and an emotional release

as well.

first

We

UK

sail. It

was

mouth of the river and

accidentally splashed her sails with red

celebrated her maiden

sailing.

than

1

I

laughed

had since the project began.

I

Mark, meanwhile, had received

more

felt as

a fantastic

ended up becalmed in those

off the

wine

as

we

few evening hours

though we were on our way.

his first really positive

news on the

sponsorship front. Charles Dunstone from Carphone Warehouse had de-

Mark immediately threw the money into our project. With a sponsor behind us, we could announce our 23 May launch. This took place in Cowes. Although it was a small event, we had the boats ready in time and branded them with our new sponsor's logo. It cided to sponsor him.

was

also an opportunity to

two boats side by were stretched to the the

side

first

ciary!

time in

was

a very

limit financially,

great deal in just getting the

thank everyone

them both

who had

helped

us.

Seeing

proud moment, and although we

we

felt

this far.

we had

already achieved a

That evening,

we

relaxed for

months, with the Pier View pub being the main

benefi-

Ellen Mac Arthur

122

Two weeks later, Jez and took Le Poisson I

the Island Race. a

We

very worthwhile

made more with

me

Transat.

in It

test.

He had

terrifically well,

Not only was

my

difference to

ever realized.

do

didn't

out to compete in the but

it

was

Jez a great guy to

sanity over those

arranged for a friend of

Round and

a great sail

sail

with, but he

months than I'm sure he his,

Keith Willis, to race

June on one of the two available qualifying races for the Mini turned out to be a race to be reckoned with, setting off from

Trebeurden on the northern coast of the southern

tip

Brittany,

round Fastnet Rock on

of Ireland, then back to Trebeurden. There was the in-

evitable struggle to get the boats to the start line, not helped by dreadful ^ales.

As neither Mark nor

I

was ready to

sail

the boats there and risk

damaging them on the way, we opted to take them by until the very last

minute,

we reached

trailer.

Working

the ferry with only ten minutes to

With fittings still being attached and Le Poisson s mast needing work, we were lucky to make the start. Mark's boat, too, though now beautifully painted, was far from ready. We worked frantically to prepare them, knowing that the start date of the race was firm. Dark, depressing skies, horrendous wind speeds, and the relentless rain seemed an approspare.

priate

backdrop to our

efforts.

Somehow, and shall never understand how, we both set off on the race. A photo was taken of Mark on the morning of the start, and in all his eyes are the years I've known him, it is by far the most revealing sunken, and he looks as if even keeping them open was a struggle. He looks as though he could give no more. And he hadn't even started the I

—

race.

Fortunately, there didn't last

Keith and

We

— I

was

a light patch in the

another gale was on

set off

knowing

it

way.

its

weather for the

Mark and

start,

it

and

his crew, Fred,

was going to be tough, and we were

ended up spending several hard,

but

right.

through

stressful days fighting

Force 7 winds on our way to Fastnet Rock before turning round to

weave our way through the steep Atlantic waves. The conditions were physically

some of the hardest had been through, and I

your average boat. They're difference

is

and

flat

and surf like

the size of their masts, and the absurd

carry. Le Poisson's

boats arc pretty tection

light

little skiffs.

amount of

mast was well over twice the height

much

the

same

size.

the Minis are not

of Iduna's,

Being racers, they offer

from the elements. The cabin was wet,

as

was

The

sail

big

they

and the

little

pro-

our clothing, and

Taking On the

when we

tried to sleep, exhausted,

we would

World

against the hull

lie

123

down

below without removing our waterproofs in an effort to keep the freezwe were pounding ing cold at bay. The motion was horrendous too the size of waves in a boat a large dinghy. We into the wind and massive would hold our breath on deck as waves passed over us, and close our eyes down below as Le Poisson fell off the top of one wave and into the

—

—up

next.

With her heeled over

hit

doing anything on deck became brutally

—

ply

no

to 45 degrees or

empty

creature comforts, just an

more

difficult.

fibreglass

as the gusts

There were sim-

sandwich

shell

which

resonated like a loudspeaker, amplifying every squeak and groan on deck for the benefit of anyone in the cabin. Keith I

was

found myself on deck longer, feeling the cold that

the

first

ing

my

twenty-four hours, feet again,

I'd virtually

on the worst day, so little bit more. After

sick

given up the possibility of feel-

and with every wave trying to wash us backwards,

We

progress was painstakingly slow.

dreamt of getting round the rock

and charging back towards Trebeurden

at three

times the speed with the

spinnaker up. Sadly, the return leg wasn't the

After several incredible hours

broke the

boom

long

downwind

sprint we'd

we broached, damaged

hoped

for.

the spinnaker, and

before finally finishing in eighth place. But we'd had

it

good compared to Mark and Fred. A few hours after rounding Fastnet, they'd been dismasted, and as we sailed towards Trebeurden, we saw them limping along with just half their mast a large part of the transom had been ripped away. Better now than in the Atlantic, I thought. At least they were both safe.

—

1

my twcnty-first birthday at the beginning Having missed being with the family for my three previous birth-

RETURNED TO DERBYSHIRE

of July.

for

was time to go and see everyone. It was very much a double celebration, as Nan had just passed her European Languages degree with

days,

it

honours

—

an astonishing achievement

struggle, not least against illness,

it

at eighty- three.

After her long

was precious to see her eyes sparkle who worked in her department.

as she spoke of the lecturers and staff

The degree ceremony itself was still a long way off, at the playhouse in Derby after Christmas. I hoped I'd be there. After my brief break at home, I was back with Mark in France to prepare for the Trans -Gascogne Race

down to

Spain and back across the no-

Ellen MacArthlir

124

torious Bav of Biscay. The race

Mini Transat.

qualification for the

—

alone ing;

would be my biggest

it

would

fulfill

was

I

test so far.

the single-handed part of my really

nervous about racing

Any chance of Mark's compet-

had been wiped away by the extensive damage to

still

at

his boat,

which was

AMCO being repaired.

The race got

off to a terrible start, with a collision after only an hour,

when had everything settled down. We were heading up to the first mark when a boat tacked beneath me. saw the tip of his mast just a frac-

just

I

I

tion of a second before the splintering crack that stopped us dead in the

water. The

damage

to the

bow was

ugly but did not look structural.

de-

I

cided not to retire from the race but to keep checking the damage regu-

and

larly, I

I

was fortunate

finished eighth overall in the race,

ciallv after the

I

was happy with

that, espe-

marked the first time I managed to French, bumbling and slightly alcohol-fuelled. It

ironically also

hold a conversation in a

and

smash-up. Spain not only offered the chance to effect a

temporary repair but

was

that things did not worsen.

wonderful feeling to be able actually to communicate, though, and

to realize

how keen people were

to help

you speak

their language.

After a tiring return across the Bay of Biscay to Port Bourgenay,

on to LaTrinite, where Mark was back with

sailed

to drop, but

on

arrival in LaTrinite,

Mark had arranged I

a

photo shoot with

1

his boat.

I

was ready

turned straight round again,

forts.

in a

of getting these shots to promote our

Their worth was confirmed, though,

when Mark's

ef-

boat appeared

on the cover of the next Carphone Warehouse magazine. The following day, woke drowsily to the sound of church I

membered

as

a helicopter for publicity images.

was absolutely shattered and spun around beneath the helicopter

fury, oblivious to the necessity

I

bells.

I

re-

somewhere with Mark the night before, but as opened the shutters, was taken aback. Below me was a market bustling with people. The church was just across the street; to the right, just beyond the little market-place, was one of the most beautiful stretches of water had ever seen the Golfe du Morbihan.The house belonged to a driving

I

I

—

I

photographer friend of Mark's, Thierry Martinez, and

meant

that

it

There was ship

money

was to become home still little

cash, and

for the next

his generosity

two months.

we were burning through

the sponsor-

quickly with race entrance fees, travelling, and eating. But

setting aside time to find a sponsor

was almost impossible. Mark had

his

World

Taking On the job to do, and

was

I

125

my boat. Things would be

in France trying to repair

really tight.

was out of the water there working away till

Just days after arriving in LaTrinite, Le Poisson

AM CO.

would often stay eleven or twelve at night, as there were always errands to run during the day to the sail loft or to the machine shop where I had some pieces made. Often I would go into the little room by the offices, make myself and in the sheds

a

at

cup of potent coffee, and

let

I

sit

there,

my head

in

my hands,

trying not to

myself fall asleep.

To make matters worse,

knew

was missing important equipment. In the last two races I'd found a few creaks and leaks in my four-year-old equipment. Safety-wise we were OK, but from a competitive

racing point of view

though?

I

was maxed out,

I

also

we were

that

I

struggling.

financially

and mentally.

me while was working like

building up inside

What

1

options did

suppose

I

I

have,

all this

crazy to repair

was

my boat in

a stinking hot shed. Watching the magnificent progress of Mark's boat

next door

—

financed,

Fastnet disaster

—

completion

looked

it

^just

it

money from

has to be said, by the insurance

seemed

a totally

like

bowsprit system, mast and

to be rubbing

sails,

new

and every

my

face in

it.

boat, with a little detail

As

it

new

his

neared rudder,

done and dusted.

were beautifully coloured, while 1 had to make do with 1 was angry that things appeared so one-sided. Mark's boat had the best of the new gear we'd received, and I just felt like the kid tagging along. We'd set out to work on this together, and in my book All the ropes

what was

left.

meant we should have been sharing everything. One Sunday afternoon when Mark came down to the yard to see what was going on, 1 lost it. I felt like the underdog, and I had to let him know. Mark's reaction only fanned the flames when he said that he was the

that

person

who had to worry,

sailed his boat.

That tore

yelled, "That's

it, it's

that except for the

it.

always

Desperately needing to

A

few hours

through other,

it

a bit,

later,

He just walked

I,

some steam,

I

was gone. He did not even

out.

and with both of us feeling we'd been dragged

we were

fine.

and Mark actually had

tion than

let off

Mark f*****g Turner!"

A few equally inelegant sentences later, he appear to be listening.

Mini Fastnet, he had hardly

The bottom

a fair point:

line

was

that

he was in a

we needed

weaker

and although he had more race experience

each

sailing posi-

in general than

1

Ellen

126

did, he

had

Mac Arthur experience saiHng alone (he was to start the race with

far less

onlv ei^ht davs of solo experience).

simply charge headlong

Mark,

this

saw

his

I

it,

relished being alone at sea.

wasn't until then that

It

him

it

sank in

—

the

that I'd never previously understood. For

was the coming- together of

Mark,

I

to be pushing himself into racing single-

handed, challenging himself. sailing itself held a fear for

was the kind of person who would

something, and

at

seemed

in contrast,

I

a ten-year

campaign, and,

as

he

boat just had to be as right as possible for him to succeed.

WAS DOING ALL

I

COULD

to save

money. Lunch would be

a baguette

and

and dinner was more often than not out-of-date

a couple tomatoes,

freeze-dried food packets that were kicking around in boxes on the floor. I

grew

to love the French. Their

second to none. At the

AMCO

words, understanding more

way of life and passion

yard,

as

I

were

for sailing

talked with Thierry, learning

he generously shared

his

new

knowledge.

I

would often watch him at work, laminating rudders for the Open 60s, or working on Mark's Mini, so meticulously and accurately that anything he

work of

did was an absolute

and bounds, although boat-yard slang

—

poule)": "go for literally,

it

art.

My

French was coming along

was by no means

classical.

I

in leaps

was learning French

(ma more

phrases such as "a donf," "A+," and "9a roule

it,"

"see ya," and "that rolls

my

chick"

—

or,

something about hens!

We

were getting ready to leave LaTrinite. Mark's boat was finished just completed an extremely hairy single-handed qualification to Spain and back. We were on board his boat, having tied alongand he had

side, discussing his trip

bilges,

when we

hull. They

As

and bailing out water that had collected

some

noticed

were the

first

her

small water droplets on the inside of her

signs of total disaster.

we had her lifted out of the water, then asked come down to have a look. He climbed down into and spent a few silent minutes examining the hull. He

a safety precaution

Thierry

if

he would

the tiny cabin

then shook his head slowly, before looking sion.

in

When was

he spoke,

we could

tell

at

us with a pained expres-

by the tone that

it

was

serious. His

no inner skin, and what was there was not bonded well. Basically, Mark was in danger of losing his keel, and with the foam core wet, there was no time to repair it safely before verdict

that there

was

virtually

Taking On the

A

the start.

World

second verdict from Nigel Irens was the same.

money, and one boat between the two of us

in

which to

We

race.

It

127

had no

would

take a miracle to get us to the start line.

As we wandered back along the pontoons to Le Poisson, we were joined by another competitor, Thomas Coville, whom we'd met through Thierry Martinez. Thomas had heard what had just happened, and he walked up to Mark and simply and handed him cheque, but

its

a

said,

"You have to make the

start,

Mark,"

cheque for 10,000FF. Mark has never cashed that

message has never been forgotten.

we returned to Thierry's house and sat together on the Mark was emotionally drained, his eyes tired and sad, but there was

In the evening sofa. still

a spark of defiance in

him. We talked

late into the night. It

couldn't

The only way to race was to find another boat, and the only way to do that was to find more money. We knew the cost of chartering a Mini, and it was totally out of reach. Without money we didn't stand a chance. We just kept coming back to the same place. At 2 a.m., we typed out an e-mail, really no more than a cry for help. It explained what had happened and what we were going to have to do in order to make it to the start line. Both Charles Dunstone and Hugh Morrison contacted us the following day. Hugh, to whom we had barely spoken for six months, except for the odd updating e-mail, called to ask for our bank details and offered to all

stop here, not after what we'd been through.

transfer

£10,000 immediately.

Charles

agreed to up his original

£10,000 to £15,000. This generosity was awe-inspiring, but it didn't solve everything by any stretch of the imagination. We could move forward, though, and while it was going to be a real struggle, we were driven by the challenge of making

it

happen. While

my

boat was renamed

on the name of Hugh's company, the money itself was used to try to get Mark back into the race. The few days until the start in Brest seemed like months. Mark managed to find and charter another Mini not already taking part in the race

Financial Dynamics, taking

and hired

a

wonderful preparateur named Jeanne to transfer

the equipment, including the mast, electronics,

boom, and

much

sails,

of

from

was going to work. Meanwhile, Mark also laboured away on the publicity side. He was a natural at making sense of this. He knew instinctively what needed to be communicated, when, and to whom.

his old

boat onto the

new

one.

It

Ellen

128

MacArthur

Meanwhile,

returned to the

I

UK to make

ment from Hamble. By pure chance, when I stopped to thank the yard staff for 1

had arrived that very morning.

Southamp-

Show to collect my final equipremembered to check my mail

ton during the annual September Boat

letter

a flying visit to

their help.

all

A

life-changing

was from the Foundation

It

my

Sports and the Arts. They had considered

for

application and stated that

would be our desire to offer a grant." They had offered me £6,000. called Mark, unable to tell him fast enough. After all the bad luck, someone must have put in a good word for us! They couldn't have

"it

I

just how crucial their backing was. 1 now had the chance to buy much-needed equipment for the race, and I spent a frantic afternoon at the boat show, sprinting from stand to stand, picking up everything from an extra sail to the autopilot 1 needed so badly. In the end, I just managed to make the ferry, but only because the man who sold me

known that

the generator gave

We

were only

a

me

a

lift.

week from

the start

when

I

and with a whole hoard of new equipment to

arrived back in France,

fit,

—

I

felt

woefully

—

ill

pre-

I

Work on board Le Poisson now Financial Djnamics was hectic. If the race had come down to the amount of gear each boat had lying on the pontoon, we had the rest of the fleet licked. pared.

Every single skipper on that

Most had been

living

brought people closer their

unwanted

their

weather

sails

tactics

on board

—

had struggled

start line

in

some way.

months. Those struggles where skippers will donate

their boats for

there are few races

to other competitors

who

with each other in such

are struggling, or discuss

detail.

But everyone in the

j

Mini shares something and everyone gives something. There were

two boats

More

in the fleet,

it

was one big

family.

than 70 per cent of the boats in the race were French, and most

of the rest were race,

and

fifty-

Mark and

I

Italian.

But

as the only

had our following, too.

were not only preparing the boats but

two English competitors It

made

in the

for a busy time, as

we

also trying to give interviews to

who asked for them. was unprepared for how many there would be and how time-consuming they would become. More unsettling, though, was being asked continually about what it felt like to be the only woman and the youngest competitor in the race. wasn't sure how to answer. had never considered it and had never known what it felt like to be anyall

I

I

I

thing else. The question

drew

attention to

me

for

all

the

wrong

reasons.

World

Taking On the and

I

"It's

an impossible question for

hated being singled out.

just tried to play

I

me

to answer.

I

129

with a straight bat:

it

know how

don't

it

feels

to be a guy or ten years older." I

thought a lot about

Of course,

it

afterwards, though. Why should

be any

I

differ-

was happy to be there, like everyone else. I was nerbut so was the rest of the vous, excited, and impatient for the start fleet. It was the first time 1 had even considered being any different. I had ent?

I

—

not thought of myself never

felt that

as the fleet youngster,

was being treated any

I

was, for example. Yes,

fine,

I

was

a

be absolutely one of them.

I

had

I

woman.

had always considered my-

my own

strengths and weak-

We'd be in the same boats, in the same race, And no storm would make any distinction among us.

ference.

find that they, too,

on

home-made

off wdth

were

flapjack,

were

Dick, our cameraman extraordinaire.

was

clearly

I

we've helped her

as

does, then what

I

and interviewed by

Mum said far less than Dad, but she

probably wouldn't sleep.

much as we

did a lot of training, used to

can, and as

say,

Dave King

"If

I

as

worried

don't think

I

is

it's

doing, and

at Hull,

'The sea will look after

he

where she

her,'

and

if it

more can we do?"

On the morning of the start, 1

also filmed

we've tried to understand what Ellen

logical to worry,

but

We had begun working

could sense his voice was breaking.

about Ellen in the same way,

they

start, so

nervous about the race. Dad tried to be braver, although

finished his sentence,

dif-

seas.

and they were surprised to

a target for interviewers.

film of the race ourselves, so they

no

same

in the

Mum and Dad had come down for the final day before the me

had

and worked

sailed

nesses, but so did every other skipper. Ultimately, there could be

could send

I

from the way Mark

woman, but I had

with guys for the previous four years, and self to

or the token

differently

I

felt

struggled to communicate.

anxious. People tried to talk to me,

My

mind was elsewhere, and

all

I

wanted was to be away. I wished I could just have been transported out to sea. I had my last real chat with Mark: almost mechanically, we went through the weather situation and discussed our tactics. It was a comfort to know that no immediate storms were forecast; we were due to have a fresh,

but not tempestuous, start to our race.

When to see

the time

Mark

again.

came

to leave, before saying

We had not really parted

my

final

earlier,

and

goodbyes, I

I

had

could see that

Ellen MacArthur

130

was preparing

farther along the pontoon, he

tow

for his

open

to the

wandered along, acknowledging many other skippers as I went. The French just say "merde" as their equivalent of "break a leg," so there were many "merdes" as I walked along. I could see that Mark was standwater.

I

ing with his father, and the

first

was how red

He

goodbye.

I

his eyes

were.

stood back for

thing

noticed as he looked over

I

didn't appear to be finding

a while, just

watching.

did not share the fear that

Mark appeared

for one instant think

I

For me, I

this

that

me

struck

It

I

have no recollection of the

had to be the stronger one, and

me

again that

who

I

I

did not

loved me.

was an incredible moment.

walked over to Mark.

around

easy to say

to be wrestling with.

might never return to those

final

passed between us before he stepped on board his boat and 1

it

me

at

and the look

I

remember

in his eyes as

he

let

words but

left,

that felt

I

arms wrapped tightly go, which said it all. Whathis

ever happened over the next weeks out there,

we had

already achieved

an incredible amount together.

Mark

slipped away, and as his concentration focused

walked back to say

a final

goodbye to

waiting by Financial Dynamics. to

sail

away.

I

and over the

It

looked

as

said,

I

I

prepared

tell

me

Mum

and Dad.

he was

and jumped on board.

arrived in the start zone,

as if his autopilot

1

looked Dad in

OK. I

was

off.

Mark called on

the radio.

wasn't getting a reading from the electronic

him what to look for and where thought it might be, would sail round to him while he was down bemake sure there was no collision, stayed with Mark for more

compass.

I

told

I

while assuring him that

low to

hugged

I

the eyes, and he smiled back to

Almost as soon

I

oddly detached and focused more on getting out

still felt

Mum,"

all as

I

who were

Dad, and Dick,

didn't feel like crying at

I

start line safely.

"Take care.

Mum,

on the boat,

I

I

than half an hour while he tried unsuccessfully to

fix

the problem,

speaking to him every couple of minutes on the VHF to reassure him he

was

no danger. guess it was good for worrying about someone else's problems! I

in

I

soon had

mark

my own

after the start,

I

first

watched

time it

I'd

nerves

at this stage to

be

me, however. As I turned the windward went up to the mast to hoist my new spinnaker. In

to occupy

the rush of preparing for the race, the

my

used

it.

As

I

flow out of the bag.

it

had been overlooked, and

this

was

pulled the halyard through the clutch,

I

was too short,

a

I

couldn't believe

it

—

it

Taking On the long way too short.

surements when build

it

and get

I

I

131

cursed myself for not having had the exact mea-

ordered

it

World

it

at the

boat show. The guys had been good to

to us in time, but

I

was

still

angry

—

I'd

thought

I'd

given them enough information. I

knew I had

just a

shame

to live wdth

we

that

it,

stopped in Tenerife after the

damaged

that

I

I

without

first leg.

could breathe through

ply going to have to

As

as

it I'd

be one

sail

weren't allowed to modify our

My it. I

down.

sails

It

was

when we

only large spinnaker was so gritted

my

teeth;

it

was sim-

last.

I was badly placed. The wdnd was dying, down, and day one was drawing to an end. By this stage I

headed away from Brest,

the sun going

my older and now largest one. The last of the support boats had turned back, leaving me very quiet and almost deflated, slowly creeping out to the west through the silhouetted rocks. AH had changed

my

spinnaker for

movement, sounds, and thoughts seemed very small against the magnitude of the ocean, as the sky gave up its gentle orange for an inky black. The sleepless nights, financial worries, and sheer bloody-mindedness over the previous nine months had all been for this. I had a video camera that

Dick had given

me and a small Dictaphone,

and that evening

I

made

my first comments. It's

not half good to be out here. This

is it,

this is the

Transat. I can't believe I'm here, I can't believe too

good

to be true.

who've helped

me

.

.

Mini

it. It's

almost

Incredible. I just wish the people

.

to get this far could

be living

it

with me. I'm

doing about 12—13 knots, kite up, and after all that's happened it

seems

like

magic that there are three dolphins with

me right

now.

The following morning,

I

heard on the radio that many people had

broken bowsprits or spinnaker poles.

VHF radio were

in

at a set

time each day;

We

were required to call up by these "scheds" were only possible if we

range of one of the four support boats that followed the

fleet.

We also had ARGOS beacons, which informed satellites of our position, allowing the organizers and then supporters to

know where we

were.

These positions were sometimes broadcast on Radio France, along with our weather bulletin.

Ellen Mac Arthur

132

Even when

I

onlv for ten or

did at

manage to get some sleep the following day, it was the absolute most fifteen minutes; and generally it

would be lying on the cockpit floor in full thermals and waterproofs. I would stretch out with my head on the life raft, watching the speed as my eyes closed. It's incredible when you dream, wake, and look at your only to find that you've been asleep for a mere eight minutes. I timer think it has something to do with the comfort factor, too: at the end of

—

the day, not even having a

bunk

in Financial Dynamics didn't allow

to lull itself into the false thought that

bodv

warm bed.

For the four weeks

was

I

at sea,

I

it

was tucked up

my

in a nice,

didn't climb into a sleeping-

bag once.

was joined by a didn't seem to know where In Biscay

I

little

bird resembling a yellow wren.

else to go.

That night the

He

fellow

little

my tiny cabin and roosted for the night in a small loop of ca-

hopped

into

ble that

was hanging

loose.

1

was devastated when

in the early

hours of

him and he flew off in a panic. He never returned, despite my efforts to guide him in with a torch. Farther south, as we approached Finisterre, the wind died and we all

the

morning

had to

1

startled

fight to

comes down, a large ship is

keep the boats moving.

It's

even harder

when

the fog

worry of being too close to another boat or, worse, sleep is virtually impossible. completely consuming as the

—

There are a few ships quite

close.

Luckily I can hear the fog

makes things quite a bit easier. But there are whales too. Vm floating around with no wind doing about 1.5 knots, and I can hear a "blow" just 20m away on my starboard

signals, which

side.

When prove.

.

.

.

That's quite scary.

conditions changed and the wind increased, things did not im-

The following

night

we were

surfing along at 10 knots, not even

able to hear the fog signals through the

sound of the waves.

1

felt

pretty

helpless, unable to sec anything and just ploughing on into the unknown.

But then, what are the options?

It's

even worse to be slow

—

at least

keep-

ing a constant course and speed gives a ship's radar operator a better

chance of seeing you. I

up Mark on the VHF radio, and we discussed condiand experiences. He, too, had been through the shipping lanes

managed

tions

to call

Taking On the with no wind, which he

He

told

me

felt

had been

He had missed a cargo

to miss

it.

ship by feet,

His spinnaker was lost as

must have been

133

a far- too exhilarating experience.

who was

he'd spoken with Thomas Coville,

of him.

World

narrowly ahead

slamming his boat into

seriously shaken by this, and

it

preyed on

gybe

ship.

He

my mood

for

snagged on the side of the

it

a

the rest of the day.

During the

final

part of the

the island of Tenerife.

though

—

I

The

we approached and

first leg,

lack of sleep

could not have been getting

finished

was beginning to take

more than

on

its toll,

three hours in every

twenty-four. The last miles of the race resulted in a desperate struggle to find wind,

and for the

first

land for hours, caught in

time,

its

I

wind shadow

the sight of three boats sailing past 1

knew 1 had

had taken I

me

to

come

in

was close to cracking.

wide, but

all

night,

1

sat off the is-

and had to endure

me just a little farther from the when

closer to the shore and

I

the

was

wind had

coast.

died, the current

stuffed.

crossed the line in twenty-sixth position.

I

was

bitterly disappointed

my result and vowed that no

matter what I had to do, 1 would do it on the second leg. I spent hours trying to analyze every move and where 1 had gone wrong. 1 knew that I had struggled at the start and that my spinnaker had lost me miles that 1 would

with

to achieve a better result

have to struggle to regain, but although

I

I

worried about

my

weather knowledge;

understood the weather systems themselves,

know more about the tendencies in specific regions. I was upset that Mark hadn't been by the waterside

I

felt

to see

I

needed to

me

in,

but

quickly learnt from the other skippers that after finishing ninth, he'd

I

lit-

room, completely exhausted, and couldn't be woken. By the time he came along the pontoon, 1 was glad my anger had blown itself out. It was great to share and celebrate his impressive perforerally fallen into his hotel

mance!

We spent just under two weeks in Tenerife preparing for the next leg. It

was

a

long break, but one engineered

anything else. September— October can

more around still

the weather than

be quite an active time for

hurricanes on the other side of the Atlantic; so the longer you wait, the less

your chance of getting caught up in them.

By sheer coincidence.

Sir

Chay Blyth was

in Tenerife while

there, for the start of the first edition of his transatlantic

we were

rowing

race.

Ellen MacArthur

134

We'd met before Iduna. He'd

at the

London Boat Show which

been quite rude about

vigorously defended her honour!

name. We

also discussed the

her, caUing

He

I'd

attended with

her a cockleshell, and

recognized

me

and called

I

my

round-the-world record against the prevail-

ing winds and currents which

Sam Brewster

sadly had failed to beat.

It

held by Mike Golding, and clippings from that attempt were

was

still

still

tacked to

mv bedroom wall in Derbyshire. During; a meal later that me by offering me the chance to skipper an at-

evening, Chay surprised

tempt to challenge Mike's record. He had

a

sponsor lined up and said

I

could choose any designer to have a boat custom-built. The offer was extraordinary, but

offered

me

time,

would

it

my own The delay

tried not to

show my excitement.

the complete package

thing,

restart

it

I

still

the chance of a lifetime. At the

be Chay's project.

though

was

—

a

I

In effect, he'd just

My gut feeling was that

knew needed I

I

same

should do

to think hard about his proposal.

nerve-racking process. All the skippers agreed to

for twenty-four hours to allow

one of the competitors to

finish

which time the wind built steadily. Everyone was nervous, and the atmosphere in the port was almost subdued as each boat slipped out and was towed to the entrance of the adjoining harbour. There was another question, too: the weather. Mark had been repairing his mast, during

in contact

with an American weather-router

who had

sent a fax offering

The stable area of high pressure which normally causes the trade winds was simply not there, meaning that the trades were much weaker. Although he recommended that present synopsis and views on the

his

we head

south to

sail

leg.

close to the African coast before crossing, there

was another option: to follow the more direct northern route. As Mark and discussed options, was still not really confident in my knowledge I

I

of the Atlantic svstems. I

decided to go south. Financial Djnamics was not by any means an

cient boat

upwind, so the northern route would be

a

effi-

meteorological as

wind south, I would have to run with it. By the looks of things, this was going to be a tough leg. By the time we started, the wind was really blowing, making it hard going and reducing much of the fleet to two reefs and a storm jib. The well as a tactical risk. Even .

.

if

there was less

.

radio was wild with voices as several boats

down by

were dismasted; one was run

a ferry and another lost a rudder.

our way between the islands

in

It

was carnage

as

we

fought

the choppy weather, watching out for

— Taking On the World one another. That night foot, 2 -inch

rope round

I

had

my own

my keel;

nightmare

when

I

13S

caught a 60-

not so easy to remove with a boathook

morning I was worn out from lack of sleep and wind had dwindled to nothing. It was murder trying to keep Financial Dynamics moving, knowing that each time I closed my eyes, the tiny puffs of wind might change direction by 10 or 20 degrees, and I would occasionally wake after my twenty-minute snatches dead in in the darkness. In the

frustrated, as the

the water. Again

My

kicked myself for not buying

I

big, old spinnaker

tissue

was

paper and fraying

at

in a terrible state

every seam.

knackered, and flying from the set well it

bow

new

now,

its

sails

for the race.

fabric resembling

My gennaker was

even worse

rather than the bowsprit,

and rubbed against the shrouds.

I'd

have been faster

if I'd

it

never

thrown

over the side.

He was currently in first position and had a light but steady breeze. knew also that once the wind had died, we would not be able to contact each other again. Our only form of communication wasVHF radio, which has a maximum range of about 60 miles, and once this distance separated us, we would be on our own and would only have the French weather reports for company. The I

managed

to raise

Mark on

the radio.

I

Mini

is

unique in leaving competitors so isolated.

As the wind with

it.

by

filled in bit

bit

from the northeast,

my

hopes grew

We crept up from thirtieth position to nineteenth.

Even if I am not breaking any records and my speed is not as fast as I would wish, it is wonderful sailing! There arefantastic flying fish, one that seemed to glide for simply miles. I have just realized that

on the 5th.

it is 1

November and that it

Itfeels very

think of everyone back in Derbyshire,fireworks apples. It is all a very long

The breeze was windless days

we

a false slid

my

Night

will be Bonfire

strange to be at sea on Bonfire Night. I

way awayfrom

and

toffee

here.

dawn, and over the next achingly frustrating

back down to thirty-ninth place. As

I

sat in the

was further discouraged to read that the wind was not forecast to improve and that the boats to the north were barrelling along the leader was 250 miles ahead after only a week's racing. Conditions on board were sweltering, and racing Financial Dycockpit clutching

—

radio,

I

Ellen MacArthur

136

we had

namics in these airs was hardest to cope with. Each time

we had

the

They were all equally bad. I felt as I was exhausted, pushing thou2;h I'd been kicked mvself harder and sleeping less to keep us moving in the desperate heat. There were no options, though you just had to dig as deep as you could and get on with it. weather,

the position reports. in the guts

each day.

—

There can't be

many boats

in this situation, this is crazy just

crazy,you can't do anything; just helpless

way just got little bit

to

.

.

.

[pause J

.

.

.

Any-

keep plodding on, and keep trying and when a

of breeze comes take

it

and get the boat moving, then

eventually we'll arrive.

I

calculated that at the current rate of progress

days to reach the finish.

knew

I

it

would take us

forty

that this wouldn't happen,

and the wind

was

a depressing

would come, but when was the big question ...

it

thought.

The windless days ended abruptly with an enormous It

was

a

daunting afternoon before

it hit. I'd

about an area of high electrical activity with directly in front of us.

knew a storm like What began as veloped us, I

was soon

its

I

slept as

much

as

electrical storm.

heard on the weather report its

epicentre just a few miles

could before nightfall,

I

when

I

would intensify with the cooling of the air. a low line of dense cloud in front of us slowly enslashing lightning strikes becoming increasingly vigorous. this

and

in its centre,

I'd

never experienced anything

like

it

be-

worked reefing and changing the sails in the squalls, could see everything I was doing. The air was dark with rain, like a cloak around us, snatched away with each fork of lightning. felt the thunder as much as heard it, and the wind snapped nothing from to 20 knots and back again as it whipped in from confore.

The sky

lit

up

as if

it

was

day,

and

as

I

I

I

stantly

changing directions.

Following the storm, though, the heat returned. This time, the

barometer read 98 per cent humidity care; the

It's

in a

temperature of 33°C.

I

didn't

wind was back, and we were eating up the miles.

so hot that the sweat

in the cabin I leave

is

pouring ojjnie and when

behind a

little pool.

I sit

down

The skin on my legs has

Taking On the come up

World

in little spots, which although they do not hurt

137

and

are not even sore, look pretty horrible. I also have sores on

my

hands, but even if a little battered I am in good spirits. We are sailing well, averaging about 7—8 knots thanks to this precious breeze.

Then

there was even better news:

north were becalmed

—

port came through,

leapt so high

the deck head.

I

could stop us;

/

When

albeit temporarily. I

I

—

was back

gloom of the preceding it

in the

days.

I'd

my

head on

overtaken seventeen

match, and

On a high,

I'd

completely

felt as if

I

nothing

proved that you can never give up.

just

am surfing at

the next position re-

was lucky not to crack

We were in thirteenth position

people in forty-eight hours! forgotten the

turned out that the boats to the

It

12.4 knots. I have clouds behind

front but they do not look

me and in

was a long night but I should now be west of the storm area. I have better weather, a good wind, and I am averaging 9 knots. I have 800 miles to

go.

not

.

.

.

I've

thrill

vicious. It

been thinking about Chay's suggestion. But

it

does

me at the moment. I know that all I want to do is

to

race like this.

I

no more than

slept for

and the

last

500 miles was

—

draws closer

mistake and

it

could

let

all

had.

I

bility

had

was

less sail area

meant

I

just

that

it

—

"smelling the stables"

be over.

I

in the final few days, You can smell land when it

your concentration

the south and whether or not verdict in hindsight

hour or so

a hard grind.

the French call

have to keep going and not

One

a total of an

it

had

1

my

option to

been the right choice.

—

had done the right thing

My

with the boat

if I'd

—

tried to stay

wind had come in a day later or, indeed, it had arrived days sooner it could have been a very different story. if

I

than most others, and our poorer upwind capa-

wouldn't have been competitive

with them. But then,

the final hurdle.

slip at

thought a lot about

finally

but you just

the

—

/ nowfeel so wonderfully in tune with the boat

and

that I know I shall really miss this once the race

the sea

is over.

At

night I watch the sun go down and in the morning the sky is

if

Ellen MacArthur

138

there above me, a wonderfulfeeling of space

Today the sea veryfresh.

is

blue

and ahead of me

regarded their presence

it,

had

is

clear

and so

I

of Martinique appeared

—

of an invasion of privacy. As

as a bit

of the island,

tip

lights

I

even I

ap-

had to turn and could see just one boat

number 333, who, though

astern of me. This turned out to be

not sec

the sky

timelessness.

shall be very sad to leave all this behind.

I

My feelings were mixed as the proached the

and

just lost the top half of his mast.

We

were

in for

I

could

our

fair

when we were almost at the headand we broached. Financial Dynamics

share of problems, too, though, as land, the

was

lying

wind changed violently on her side, and as I blew

that finally

off her spinnaker halyard,

our precious "tissue" spinnaker was completely

dragged the sodden mess out of the sea and changed the smaller, bright pink spinnaker, though

1

took that

realized

in tatters.

as fast as

down

I

I

I

could to

shortly after-

wards when the wind changed once again.

Our

final straight-line

tinique; hi2;h

course was along the southern coast of Mar-

though only short-lived,

was awesome.

speed with waves washing over us

side-deck and steered with the into

it

mv

face.

Below me,

in the

as

we

We

were reaching

raced along.

I

sat

a

on the

warm, scented air blowing off the land water, a pod of dolphins played, and the

sky above was littered with stars bright enough to silhouette the island. I

crossed the finish at just after 3 a.m., after almost twenty-four days

at sea; relief

surged through me, and satisfaction that

we had clawed our

way up through the fleet from way, way behind. had achieved my goal to do better in leg two. As before, and it was less unexpected this time, there was no sign of Mark on the dockside as arrived; he had finished I

I

in fifth place overall the first real sleep.

1

threw

up Financial Dynamics.

my

little

world.

and smiled

as

I

afternoon before and was no doubt enjoying his

my I

lines to the

guys on the dock,

spoke briefly to Dick's camera

who

as

I

swiftly tied

began tidying

popped down below to drag out my sodden spinnaker looked up at the electrics panel: no need to check that I

were charged tonight! was alone on Financial Dynamics now, and

the batteries I

had no urge to leave her, but ing for an interview.

toon;

I

slid

my hand

"OK,"

1

I

knew

said,

it

wanted to say goodbye. Dick was waitwas time to go

I

I

—

"I'm coming."

along her guard wire until

I

I

stepped onto the pon-

reached the bow, kissed

On

Taking

World

the

her gently, and then patted her goodbye, silently wiping away

139

a tear.

She's a pretty cool boat, that one.

My position

coining in tonight, 13th, I was very pleased with. I

know there are many boats out there faster which is a and I couldn't have pushed any harder I don't think.

big thing

.

The feeling inside

and

the time

.

.

one of nervousness, of being aware make the boat go. It's very hard to

is

trying to

all

describe; but you're doing a job out there, you are in a world

where you have your 6.5m by 3 metres and you are in control of it,

and that is it.

me back to the hotel. He told me that

After our interview, Dick took as he'd

to

come out

welcome me

to

wake him, but he was dead

in,

he'd banged on Mark's door trying

to the world, so

Dick had had to come

alone.

When we was the

eventually

time

last

we

managed

to

could about

wake him, Mark and

all

that

1

ming

he was the

along with a team of guys on board

sailing

sails

actually taken

for him, but

down

ing his imaginary

more

a little.

At one

who were

trim-

worryingly, on another occasion he had

his spinnaker

companion

if it

had happened to us out there.

Mark described hallucinating on his trip, which scared me stage,

talked as

without really wanting

for not taking

it

to, after curs-

down. Twenty -four days

is

when you're exhausted and pushing yourself harder than ever before. Mark spoke of the weather front he had sailed through, batthng with high winds, and his time spent sailing close to Thomas Coville, a long

time

the conversations they had had on the radio, and of his second-night disco.

lead,

Unable to contain the excitement he he pressed "transmit" on

uncharacteristic

DJ

his

VHF

fashion: "Yo, get

party night," then played

some of his

felt at

hearing he was in the

radio, then yelled out in a very

down

.

.

.

it's

Carphone Warehouse

favourite tracks.

He hadn't thought

there was anyone to hear him, but he was caught, and, of course,

word

spread quickly!

During our time ture,

and

it

I

Mark and

I

talked a lot about the fu-

was great to spend time together without the overwhelming

pre-race pressure.

whereas

in Martinique,

He was

going to return to his job

had nothing to go back to other than

a

at

Spinlock,

burning passion to

Ellen MacArthur

140

my

number of options, but I always knew that the Vendee remained the primary goal. The debate was about how to ^ct there. To be ready, needed more experience on bigger boats. The Open 60s that competed in the Vendee were nearly three progress with

racing.

There were

a

1

times the size of Iduna or Financial Dynamics. sailed in the

was

I

keen to have

also

Southern Ocean before tackling the Vendee, and there was

me

race which could take

round the world with

there

—

a

Around Alone

the single-handed

But there was no time to raise the funds to

stops.

charter or build a boat for such a long race, which started in less than a year.

We couldn't risk being badly prepared.

Another option, though not one

Route du Rhum,

south, was the

that

would take

a race that

I

knew

me

little

into the far

about before

meeting Mark and being introduced to the French scene. For

handed

the Route

sailor,

du

Rhum

probably the most competitive

is

trans-oceanic sprint in the racing calendar.

Guadeloupe and

runs from St.-Malo to

It

attracts the best of the best, sailing single-handed in

Open-class trimarans and monohulls, most of which,

60

Anicajlash, are

and was sure that

Rhum became felt

a single-

feet.

Mark had been

would be the

it

right

1

and

one of these races

to the start of

move.

like Elan Sifo

agreed, and the Route du

our immediate aim: not only was

sure that after training for and competing in

it

high profile, but

it, I'd

we

be ready to chal-

lenge for the big one, the Vendee. In the end,

those the let

initial

Martinique was

a holiday paradise for us. After

task of getting the boats freighted

down by our

first

when

shippers

nothing more than a barefaced

ended up paying double the at

from

days fuelled by the adrenalin of finishing,

enormous

found

far

the last minute.

I

Since finishing the race,

lie.

a

we knew we

home.

We

were badly

written quote turned out to be

After the agent reneged on the deal,

price, but thankfully to a different

was

faced

I

company

furious.

Mark and had become I

listless

and

tired,

and

the consequences were beginning to show. Emotions were inevitably

running high, but

Mark asked me ing

on

my

to pay for our hotel,

his laptop

me, and

I

I

left

the

on the

final

night

when

room where he was work-

and wandered off barefoot into the hotel complex.

blood was boiling, and ing

frustration overflowed

hated

it.

I

I

didn't

knew

There was resentment and

know where I

Anger was consumbut had no idea how.

to turn.

had to get over

fatigue,

My

it

frustration at not standing

my

Taking On the ground, and

we were on

lots

their boats or in

\4\

was frustrated by the fact that smart hotel, while many of the skippers were living cheap hotels in town. We had no money, but Mark

of bottled-up emotions.

staying in a

World

viewed the end of the Mini

as the

He

big single-handed race.

felt

I

end of

a ten-year

campaign

—

his last

knew

he'd earned a reasonable rest and

grand scheme of things, the cost of a couple of nights' decent

that in the

was unimportant. At the time, I just couldn't see how much sense made. All I knew was that we had to stick together in order to make

sleep that

all this

happen.

cool

off,

but

didn't

He was

morning

1

teeth and

sitting on. After a

room

hammered my

fists a

few times

long think, and time to

feeling deflated but a million times

Mark and I were fundamentally different in this respect, mean that we couldn't or shouldn't continue working to-

positive.

gether.

I

returned to the

I

more it

my was

gritted

1

into the concrete steps

completely unaw^are of my frustration, and the following

just gritted

my

teeth again and put the entire hotel

bill

on

my

credit card.

With hind

was finally able to put all this beferry to Guadeloupe, from where we would

the boat shipment arranged,

me when we

be flying home. friends

caught a

We

were staying

I

for a couple of nights with Mark's

Pipo and Marie Cairo and their daughter Mathilde. They

made

more welcome. Deciding to make the most of our time on Guadeloupe, Mark and hired a small car for twentycouldn't have

us feel

1

four hours and took

over to the mountainous side of the island.

it

I'd

calls and steam risfrom the dark green slopes made it seem impossibly exotic. 1 was fascinated by the isolation and density of the forest. 1 felt intensely

never before seen such lush scenery. Strange animal ing

savouring

alive,

with

a less

all

the

new

and sounds. Mark travelled

obvious sense of wonder, having seen the world with the

navy by the time he was living

sights, smells,

were undimmed.

my It

age, but

was

all

still

so far

his curiosity

and appetite for

removed from the

rest of

my

life.

As we drove back to Pipo and Marie's, relaxed

we

discussed the Mini.

And I began

after a

to understand

more

wonderful

the differences

us. We had teamed up, trusting our instincts, was dramatically shaping both our futures. Mark was competing to

between

and that decision

me

the racing side

chal-

was there primarily to be out on the was a bonus which made it tougher and

lenge and test himself, whereas ocean. For

day,

I

Mac Arthur

Ellen

142

without the race

harder

doubt made

a

itself.

I

me

reHed on

when I was out

push myself further, but the reason was not

my

there.

natural competitive instinct to push

didn't need

I

me

to force myself to the start

it

line.

was intrigued by the difference in our views and understood why our partnership worked. Mark had needed my support as much as I had needed his; he was looking for someone with whom to share this experiI

ence.

He had known

that his drive

and knowledge of the racing world

would help me get to the start of that race and most probably make something happen which could otherwise have taken years longer. But he

knew

equally well that in order to get to the start line of that race

himself, he

Mark

needed someone there

told

me

too.

that the skippers of the top three boats

had

all

by the time they arrived they were dying to get off their boats.

wanted the race to end, and be a winner because

I

I

wondered

meant enough

if this

might not have put

in

that

1

said that I

hadn't

would never

to hate

it. I

knew,

way

I

had done, every decision

1

though, that greater success in the Mini wouldn't have changed the felt at

the finish.

I

thought about everything

I

had made, and about what had gone right and wrong for sight,

maybe

I

would have done better

in the

With hindnorth, taking the same us.

route as the winners, but since Financial Dynamics performed less well

upwind

I

had put

in

And

I

was convinced everything

told myself that

strength.

I'd

that

1

would have

really struggled

up

there.

I

got and relished every second, good and bad.

what

I'd felt

was not

a fault or a

weakness but

a

Chapter Eleven

was hectic on returning from the Caribbean, and it seemed strange to come back to a modular shed in a quiet boat yard in the cold of winter. Mark and I brought back from the Mini some of the best memories of our lives and a list of great new friends, but we were financially drained. Both of us owed large amounts of money, but at least Mark had the income from his job, while 1 was in a more difficult situation. It was then that Mark asked me if I would like to become a joint partner in the company he had set up a couple of years before. Although the business had done little up to that point, it seemed a good idea to become part of an operation through which we could run our future projects. After what we had been through together, I made up my mind quickly and decided to go with it. Working with businesses was a big part of our projects; I had to learn fast. A few weeks later I became joint owner of OffLife

shore Challenges. I

wasn't long on the South Coast before

everyone.

It

had been

a

long time since

I

I'd

headed to Derbyshire to see

managed

to visit

Gran and

Nan, both of whom were unwell. Gran had been into hospital for heart surgery and despite struggling. She

some complications was improving; but Nan was

had finished her degree course by

this stage

and had

all she had left in achieving it. She seemed so happy to me, but while her eyes still shone, she was clearly very frail and weak. Dad was getting stronger and wearing his back brace less and less. But even as he recovered and was spending more of his time outside in

given just about see

143

Ellen MacArthlir

144

the yard and around the barns, he remained incredibly frustrated that he

enough to do even half the chores he loved. That Christmas was wonderful, really normal. Dad played his Scottish pipe music extra loud on Christmas Eve, more than making up for the was

still

not

fit

he had missed out the year before.

fact that

went over

to collect

Nan and we

all sat

On

Christmas morning he

around for

a fantastic

Christmas

lunch of turkey, rounded off with one of Gran's famous Christmas puddings looking splendid with the sprig of holly on top.

rum and

and after lunch we

lit it,

our presents. Thca came all

that

had happened

We

perienced.

our

down from

in the

on

Mini and the conditions

Cabaret.

times alone, sometimes with at

home

did

me

a

all

to prepare for the

London show

It

was

fire

and opened

we talked about Mark and had ex-

and reminisced about

walked Mac

—

somewas relaxed and happy, and the

I

Mum.

Rhum

du

I

I

in the hills

world of good.

The break ended 1998.

the

the

her bedroom, and

talked about the Route

fantastic adventures

time

down around

sat

Dad poured on

too soon, however, and

a crazy

1

returned to the boat yard

International Boat Show, starting for us,

on 9 January

meeting yet more people, and

presentation about the MiniTransat.

I

gave a

had done several presentations by

I

but none with quite the same pressure of venue. Several people

this stage,

approached secret tips

me

afterwards, asking about the race and whether

on how to make

it

to the start line.

had any

I

was embarrassed not to

I

be able to offer more help, saying only that learning French and spending

much time as possible on the water before the race was important. What people really wanted to know, though, was how to find sponsoras

ship

—

a difficult question to

hardest aspect.

I

knew

well

couldn't help but think that

answer

enough from

Mark and had I

ble task in finding sponsorship for the

The most promising development possibility of a

new

in finite detail,

and probably the

my own

experience and

set ourselves a

new

impossi-

Route du Rhum. for

me

challenge on board an

at the

Open

boat show was the

The boat was about was asked if would be 50.

named Rowen, and prepared not only to manage the boat but also to co-skipper with David, the son, in the Double-handed Round Britain and Ireland Race. was reluctant to commit myself long term, but their offer made sense. Not to be bought by a family

I

I

I

only was

it

a great race to

compete

in

—

clockwise round the

UK

and

— On

Taking Ireland in short sprints

—

but,

more important,

the

would

I

World

145

also gain valu-

able hands-on experience in the Open-class world.

The boat the Rowens were lying in Brittany, over.

and soon

after the boat

Merv, who was now

lenge, joined us to

interested in, Jusqu'au Bout du Monde,

show we went there

settling into life after the

do the survey. He was

living in

BT

was

to look her

Global Chal-

Cherbourg, where he

was managing the building of a new Open 60 for Mike Golding Golding's next project after winning the BT Global Challenge. We all chatted away like a bunch of old schoolfriends, which was good news, as

would be going through a tough race together. David seemed shy at first, but he had a wicked sense of humour and a very defDavid and

I

inite passion for sailing.

Things happened quickly. David and his father bought the boat, and on

we

Cherbourg so the bulk of the By the end of January we had her in a new base, had arranged for the cradle, had her out of the water, and had started on the list of work to be done. She was to have a new engine and a new water-ballast system, and we were going to repair her keel, which was not very symmetrical. Merv suggested that during the three months I would be there, 1 could stay with him in the beautiful cottage he had rented, about half an hour's drive from Cherbourg. On 23 January, while I was still in France, the rest of the family joined Nan, now very ill, at Derby University for her graduation ceremony. She was understandably thrilled not only to be receiving her degree but also to be asked to give the thank-you speech on behalf of all the graduates. It seemed a fitting recognition of a lifetime's determination. As she finally collected her degree, she got the loudest cheer of the Merv's recommendation

work could be

day;

when

sailed her to

carried out there.

she gave her speech, she held the 2,000-strong audience in

palm of her hand, mixing humour and warm anecdotes that kept hall transfixed. Her final line read: "I was glad to have been made aware that life holds a lot of treasure still to be mined in one's eighties!" She had been living for that day all her life. At long last, the

everyone in the

—

she had achieved her goal. Just three

months

she died from the cancer she had been fighting.

was bleak, but while we were devaswe were comforted by the fulfillment of her dream and

The springtime tated to lose her,

later,

after Nan's death

the end of her suffering.

Ellen

146

I

Mac Arthur

TRAVELLED HOME

Mark

as oftcn as

to discuss anv leads

could and whenever possible

on sponsorship and progress on trying to

that without sponsorship, the task

would be

with Mark desperately trying to catch up

head buried

in the

met up with find a

Rhum. There were few around, though, and we

boat for the Route du

knew

I

Round

Britain

virtually impossible;

and

at Spinlock,

and Ireland project,

it

me

was

with

my

difficult to

make headway. At least by April would be back in the UK for a month to prepare for the Round Britain. hoped that being nearer would make I

I

things easier to complete and achieve.

Mark had decided

that he

a 40-foot catamaran It

—

named

was

all

My

only break from a

To complicate things even

was going to compete ironically, as it

further,

in the race as well,

turned out

but in

Fingers Crossed.

go once more.

day trip on one of the

BT

life

revolving around the dockyard was a five-

Global Challenge boats. Two of these had been

named TMI, and I had already met one of the diAntony Lane. Antony had sailed with Merv on one of the legs of

chartered by a company rectors,

the

BT

Chris.

Global Challenge and had always been a

We

had a rough

start to

our

trip

—

sailor, as

had

his

a race against other

brother

Challenge

boats around the Fastnet Rock. Every boat in the fleet turned back,

though we were the

last to

do

so;

when we

finally called

it

a day, the

ma-

crew of twelve were seasick and the rest were too inexperisafely. Below decks was carnage pieces of clothing slopped around with bits of revisited breakfast from one end or the

jority of the

—

enced to carry on

other that had failed to

make

it

into, or

Rather than continue the punishment,

had

we

fallen

out

spent the

of, the buckets.

last

few days

cruis-

West Country, and we laughed so much we didn't know what do with ourselves! The memory that sticks with me, though, is of a

ing in the to

fourteen-year-old

girl

named Hemma. She had been

invited

on the race

by an educational trust created by TMI that aimed to provide youngsters

Hemma, from

with otherwise-impossible opportunities.

Birmingham, had never been on the water before,

let

inner-city

alone lived on a

boat with a bunch of puking adults, but as our trip drew to a close and she stood at the helm in complete control of the boat,

I

don't think

I

had

ever seen anyone's eyes shine so brightly.

Back

in

France, the hard

work resumed.

I

never seemed to leave the

docksidc until after dark. Although Juscju'au Bout du Monde was out of the

Taking On the

World

147

making it easier to work on her, the docks near the ferry terminal where we worked were horribly exposed to the bitter Cherbourg winter. While I felt sure I would lose my fingers from frostbite, 1 never lost my enthusiasm and was never more than a couple of minutes away from a quick hot chocolate and a warming chat with Jean-Marie Vaur, the water,

manager of the JMV yard, about the work that was going on. In the evenings, we would talk about the Open 60s, and he would show me around the yard, explaining what each piece of machinery was for and

how

it

He showed me

functioned.

ious materials that

were used

the types of construction and the var-

in these

pride in the yard was transparent, and there too, working on the

when we both had talking.

also got

I

a

was

racing machines. His

fascinated,

Merv was

still

of Mike's boat, Team Group 4, and

few minutes to spare, we would wander around

on well with the guys working with him and would

sometimes join them sitive to

final stages

I

modern

after

hours for a beer

laid

on by Merv. He was sen-

the guys' feelings and had built a great relationship with them.

He was aware

that a boat's eventual level of performance

rect reflection of the

amount of energy and

my

would be

a di-

care put into building her.

Merv and I realized that we were becoming more than just the close friends we already were. We shared so many of the same passions and dreams. In the evenings we During the

final stages

time in Cherbourg,

Open-

tapping away on our laptops and chatting about

sat in the cottage

class boats

of

and the Southern Ocean.

months, gone running

in the evenings,

We

had lived together for two

and cooked meals for each other

(though mine rarely stretched to anything more glamorous than crepes).

We

saw that

feeling,

this

almost a

me, watched out felt like

could be something longer term.

relief, to start a relationship

for

me

the luckiest girl

as

I

on

It

was

with Merv.

did for him, and took

me

a

wonderful

He understood

for

what

I

was.

I

He was a caring, loving man who people. He was as solid as a rock and

earth.

would go out of his way to help wore his heart on his sleeve both qualities I appreciated immensely. After only a few precious weeks, it was a v^rench to leave him behind in Cherbourg and head for Plymouth with David to prepare for the race.

—

was an odd time in Plymouth. I felt nervous and very responsible, as for first time my work was important directly for David, too. There was a real mixture of boats in the race, from our 50 to the monster 60s, and sevIt

the

MacArthur

Ellen

148

eral trimarans

around 45

feet in length.

with exactly fortN-eight hours

normally also end up

David and

We

I

had

t02;ether for something.

when

in stages

which, though busy,

with the other skippers.

tactical racing

but also laughed a

revealed once again the incredible spirit

it

on board when people

perately unlucky

—

run

time on the Round Britain and Ireland Race.

not only had some hard and

ble to have

each stopover

in

as quite social occasions

a great

got on famously, and

a special race,

It's

are compatible and have to

Mark, on the multihull

miles into the race, forcing

them

We

possi-

work hard

Fingers Crossed,

the catamaran's mast began to

lot.

it is

was des-

come down just 60

to turn back before they ever really got

was beautiful: the Outer Hebwere stunning and we were blessed with wonderful weather and winds eternal daylight was breathtaking as we headed farther

going. But for the lucky ones, the route rides light

—

north. The race was not without in

Lerwick

1

chilly

aluminium mast

was

problems, though. During a rig check

discovered our forestay was breaking, so

ous and rather

It

its

day removing

as far

north

a foggy passage

as

spent a labori-

was nippy spending hours up an

Cape Horn

is

south!

Hum-

through the North Sea and past the River

ber before a real bashing

down

the English Channel,

oped problems with our other stressful final night in a

it. It

we

forestay,

where we devel-

which led to an incredibly

very black and vicious storm. We

Plymouth, though, and the icing on the cake was that

made it back to we won our class

in the race.

But there was a

lot

going on ashore while

I

was

racing.

Mark made

a

big life-changing decision; he resigned from Spinlock, having decided that he had

outgrown

his post there.

There was no doubt that the Mini

Transat had changed his outlook; in fact,

my

goal of the Vendee Globe

The Mini had taken

us a long

it

—

had changed us both

was sitting there just waiting to be seized. way towards that. At the time of the start it

was the unimaginable culmination of

all

had become the foundation on which

our hard work; by the

we could

work

finish,

it

build the campaign for

the Vendee. The biggest step forward for both of us sion to

and

was simply our

deci-

together.

sailed with David back to Hamble, where came out of the water. made a quickly filmed BBC Waterworld programme about my plans for the Vendee Globe; then, in a car BBC was kind enough to hire for me, drove to Falmouth with some parts for

Returning from the race,

the boat

I

I

I

Taking On the Merv,

who by

this stage

was preparing Team Group 4

World

149

for her first race.

It

was great to see him again, and I even had a few hours' saiUng on the boat, which was fantastic. Mike Golding was going to race over to America in the feeder event for the Around Alone, the same race we had looked

him

at;

but with stopovers,

— would be I

After

my

seeing

little

it

meant

that

brief trip to Falmouth,

Rhum, A seemingly obvious option

Mark and I

that race

once again

I

much as also knew

set

about

could race in the Route du

was the 50

for the latter

raced on. She had been bought very

now

following

of him.

looking for sponsorship and a boat in which

and

Merv would be

I

a boat for a single

had

just

purpose,

her well, and since several was finished. I on the subject had already occurred, we thought

discussions touching

we

should ask the question properly.

We had several meetings with David, his father, sociates; contrary to

what we had

initially

and their business

as-

thought, they seemed quite

it forward as a project. We came to an agreement whereby I would be able to sail the boat in the Route du Rhum. The boat itself would be further enhanced by work that we would do over the rest of the summer, ideally including a new mast and new sails. Her visibility would be significantly raised in France, which would greatly improve the

keen to take

prospects for selling her.

We

were over the moon to be working with people whom we had come to know and trust over recent months, and as we had learned with the Mini project, having a boat meant we were on far firmer ground in our search for

a sponsor. Finding

big-name sponsorship was undoubt-

we had had with our Mini made a programme on the MiniTransat using footage I'd shot, and he and Mark and set about producing a sponsorship video which we could show at meetings. Along with this, we developed a computer presentation with more edly going to be hard, but using the success

sponsorship,

we explored

every avenue. Dick had already

I

particular talking points

which could be shown on

Every billboard or poster seemed to suggest sparked an idea for a potential sponsor. As

would

close

my

I

a

a big screen.

new

curled up in

opportunity or

my little

shed,

I

eyes and drift off to sleep, always keeping a notepad on

the floor next to

my

pillow

the light and scribble

—

down

would switch on whether for pursuing

nine nights out of ten,

a

thought or idea,

funding or for modifying the boat.

I

Ellen MacArthur

ISO

The pressure was definitely mounting. As each day passed, there was more and more to organize. Mark was in the process of completing his three months' notice at Spinlock; we still owed serious money on our Mini Transat boats and could not risk spending the money I had earned working on the 50. decided to move out of the shed, which was costing us over £30 per week. While Team Group 4 was out at sea, could join Merv, who was staying with friends in Cowes. Some nights, would stay I

1

I

at

Mark's mother's house on the other side of the

while,

Mark and

arranged to share an office with

I

Isle

a

of Wight. Mean-

good

friend, yacht

designer Chris Stimson.

Cowes Week

August provided an opportunity to meet potential

in

Rhum. I'd met one of my sponsors for the Mini Transat so the omens were good. end, Cowes yielded fewer contacts than we'd hoped. It hadn't

sponsors for the this

way,

In the

helped that fice right in

tent.

most of it, sleeping on the floor of Chris's ofthe yard, where nightly celebrations were held in the beer

I'd

Not only

been

did

I

ill

for

hear the

commotion of thousands of people enjoying

themselves outside, but at about 10 p.m., the nightclub started up for the all-nighters in the giant boat shed adjoining the office.

on any cushions

I

would

lie

there

could find from the chairs and, in a fever-like sweat,

I

try to block out the

CD player. knew

thumping bass by

listening to

music on

was not supposed to sleep there, so off when darkness fell; if I was working, I would

a portable

would keep the lights rely on the glow from the computer screen. It was a small office, and as it was a basic single-skin brick construction with single-glazed windows, it got cold at nights. But it allowed me to work and live in the same place, saving money, time, and energy. We were able to meet up with and interview a French girl, Marine Crenn, with a view to her working with us at Offshore Challenges. She was young, very outgoing, and a good dinghy sailor. She had grown up in a world of single-handed sailors on the north coast of Brittany and spoke good English. Now having a base meant that we were able to be more than just Mark and Ellen, and as Marine spoke French, she would be perfect to take over from Nick, the student who I

I

had been helping us cision to

go with

worked harder

it:

as a

summer job. We made

a hasty

I

but life-saving de-

she joined us on 14 September and could not have

for us.

— Taking On the I

World

Hugh Morrison at the time, and kept developments. He has always been an in-

stayed in regular contact with

him up

to date with the latest

151

I

man, constantly coming up with different suggestions or a new angle. People such as Hugh helped keep us going. I know that enthusiasm on our part was not lacking, but when the chips were down and we were about to discover how that really felt his support was credible idea

—

priceless.

Hugh, had a phone call the other day from Antony Lane, the Chairman of TMI (UK). He had a fantastic offer, which

I

needs a

little

explanation.

.

.

.

His brother Chris, the Chief Executive, was one of the

founders of the company and during their

first

years,

when

they were really quite small, Chris managed to get British

Airways to take them on to train 38,000 staff in 18 months! At that time TMI had five employees! They did it, and the company has never looked back.

Now, there is must tell you. .

A

behind their offer to help

a story .

me that

I

.

friend of Chris's, a musician at the Royal Shakespeare

Theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon, had a teenage son

who

was an incredibly talented flautist. He was winning competitions all over, and was accepted into the finals of the Young Musician of the Year award. His flute was good, but certainly not

up

to

award standards.

tional talent will only take

ceptional instrument

.

.

.

you so

true,

I

far,

.

.

.

you

He

said excep-

also

need an ex-

suppose!

Chris was having this discussion with the boy's father in a local pub,

and

after a

few beers he suggested

could sponsor a top-class flute

made

that

TMI

specially for the

young man at a cost of about £ 10k. The boy's name is JuHan Cawdrey and he has never since been parted from his flute.

He now plays as a soloist for the world's top orchestras and much sought after as a teacher. This was the "ethos" be-

is

hind their offer of help.

Ellen MacArthur

152

Chris and Antony set up an "education" trust fund, which what they want to use to help me. Their solution to the problem is to pay some of my "billed items," and they are not asking to have their name on the side of the boat. They is

simply want to get

Their company

me

is

to that Start Line

.

.

.

fantastic.

.

.

.

company, with courses pre-

a training

dominantly on team building, time and

stress

manage-

The courses are fantashome. Their intention is to send me on some of these courses, and for me, in a few years' time to work with the company delivering messages. I will take this on as a challenge, I enjoy speaking who knows what this might lead to? Their courses are for ment, customer service,

etc., etc.

tic, inspirational, really hitting

.

companies such

know ties,

as Esso, ICI, etc., so

.

.

1

can

still

find a

.

.

down

lockup, and

What a

story

great opportuni-

with their intention

.

right now, I'm homeless as the

Portakabin [prefab shed] was towed away

tober!

.

.

I'll

be free

till

last Friday.

details.

.

.

.

.

the beginning of

.

My Oc-

.

Will be in London for meetings next week.

more

I

main sponsor!

Feeling quite run

life is in a

.

.

Wonderful, wonderful news that

some

they're considering this) to

and an income of sorts.

could lead (and

.

.Thanks for

all

I'll

mail with

your support, Hugh.

Ellen

Antony had been fantastic in giving us a break that we so desperately needed to survive. Despite this, however, we still had few financial reserves left. What we lacked was hard cash. The support fromTMI was very much a reality, but as it was a trust fund, we would only be able to we had refund from receipts. By now, we were really facing trouble

—

still

not been able to pay the £5,000 entry fee for the race.

We

what felt like a knockout blow immediately after Cowes Week. Mark called, and I knew instantly from the sound of his voice that something was wrong. He had received a fax from the Rowens, stating suffered

that they

had had advances from

those few words,

we

felt

we knew

devastated.

a potential

purchaser of the 50. With

they had withdrawn the offer of the boat, and

Taking On the I

forced

into

my eyes to shut so tightly that

my head,

the project.

month

I

wished

Why

earlier?

I

I

World

153

could feel the blood withdraw

could turn back time and just be getting on with

had we not had

Although we had

a face-to-face

meeting about

been waiting

still

this a

for the contract,

we

had had the verbal agreement for weeks. In anger reply.

I

I

and frustration,

knew

I

had to get

just

honestly believe this

a result

.

.

hammered out on paper my

1

.

out of my system.

it

is

your

loss

.

.

have only our

own

believe in the project to

shall see it to the end.

knew

and unfortunately,

I

let

my

head

we would have

as

who

1

wTote:

enthusiasm, and that of those

make

far, far

fall

She was their boat, not ours: their the start line,

.

it

happen

.

.

.

We shall find a solution, but

our work has been made

Finishing the letter,

.

.

My teeth were gritted together firmly as

who

.

our pain, and our explanation to those

have helped us get so close.

Now we

thoughts for a

who for now

and

harder.

into

call. If

my hands. What was we were

to find another boat.

I

the use?

going to make think both

it

to

Mark and

going to hurt.

I

weeks to the start of the race, this one was was confused, too. David and 1 had got on so well during

the race, and

I

couldn't help but take their decision personally. Ironi-

1

cally,

that with less than ten

the 50 wouldn't sell for another three years.

we know of a boat, but with two massive ocean races alprogress, we had our work cut out. It looked as though there

Mark and

I

got to work immediately, contacting every person

thought might ready in

were

just

two options

in the

whole of the Northern Hemisphere:

a 60-

which we could buy for more money than we could ever dream of attaining, and Great Circle, a 50 -footer lying in Bermuda, charter price negotiable.

footer

named

In the end,

Coyote^

Merv turned out to be our

Hancock, the owner of the boat

saviour

when he

e-mailed Brian

Bermuda. E-mails were soon flying back and forth between us. Brian had been planning to race his boat Great Circle in the Around Alone Race, but after a fruitless and frustrating in

Ellen Mac Arthur

154

search for sponsors, he was reluctantly concluding that

it

wasn't going

to be possible.

was mind-blowing to see the support we received at this point: the Lanes, for a start; Merv, for his time spent on trying to find another boat; Ashley Per r in and her family, for offering me airline companion It

passes so

would be

1

handy when In a

few

Spinlock

—

able to travel at a fraction of the usual cost

a trip to the States

days' time a series of

was

—

very

in order.

Mark was due

to

fulfill his final

commitment

to

meetings on the U.S. East Coast. Coincidentally,

was where Brian Hancock, a South African, was now living. I could join Mark a few days later. Brian had said he would fly to Bermuda and this

sail

Great Circle

back to Marblehead, allowing us the chance to see her

there the following weekend.

Mum and Dad

would join them in Scotland on holiday. My plan was to pass through London to see Hugh Morrison, then catch the train north to Derbyshire. As usual, Hugh was full of enthusiasm, bundling me into a cab at the end of our chat with a Before

this,

however,

I'd

promised

packed lunch from the canteen. He I

we

I

really did understand.

spent a night in Derbyshire before driving north with drove, a million things spun round in

but feel that

time with

I

shouldn't have been there.

Mum

and Dad, but

it

my I

was very

head, and

I

my parents. As could not help

desperately wanted to spend stressful.

Each day we would

would connect my laptop to my mobile to read emails. I was waiting to hear from Brian. Although I realized he would be at sea for a few days, I needed to know that all was well before catching the flight to the States. I was stumped when I received an e-mail from short of characters Brian, clearly sent from the boat's e-mail address go out

in the car,

and

I

—

as

each message

is

paid for by

its

length.

Date:Tue, 25 Aug 1998 00:31 :39Z

+0000

To: [email protected]

GETthro2U from here. Here isTHE situation asICit. Letsmeet inMarblehead ths weeknd & sort allBOATdetails I will HiEllen Cant

SAIL2 Azores from here W/U. Boat willB redy21eave whenURredy. Please GIVEme somedates 4depart BDA that work4U soTHAT can makeMY fit res4 return 2 BDA. Please understand that by yourREPLY lam finally givingupon my campaign&working w/U & I

willHOLD U2 our agreement outlined invarious e-mls.Pls ASAPvia eitherMYWIFE orMERF. LK fwd2seeingU Brian

reply

I

Taking On the

World

155

—

Brian was still in Bermuda (BDA) and was suggesting Europe from there. 1 was getting worried by this stage, sailing back to and it was impossible to reach Mark to discuss the situation. I felt as though 1 had the weight of the world on my shoulders. This was odd

Although

1

was distracted during the

me

mately that holiday allowed

when we

solutely exhausted

the

way

in the car.

swollen glands.

blood

test

by

As

closed fall

I

lay in

I

bed

—

I

the cabin.

I

arrived there, although

last

I

I

had only two days to get stronger before 1

lying

began on the

could see the

I

Mac

sat

outside, while

1

I

1

reckoned

I'd

be

QUEUED NERVOUSLY

and lucky to get

1

could not

1

let

let

I

my hand

everyone

into the living area of

could see the shepherd in the farm-

hills,

and the rabbits that had come out

by the window, ears pricked up, watching

made

the sofa with a thick scarf round ing.

I

me, and

disappearing into the distance, and the

hills

each feature.

for their first lollop.

move

floor next to

woke and wandered

yard preparing to leave for the

leav-

to breathe deeply and slowly, and

simply had to get better,

morning,

light mist softening

every

I'd slept

ulti-

was abfor most of I

my mononucleosis was coming back. A put my mind at rest on that one, but was

that night,

my eyes. Mac was

On the

think

1

that year.

drained and on the second day developed very

doctor

down

to stroke her.

down.

on with

worried that

a local

forced to slow ing.

felt

1

trip to Scotland,

to carry

cup of tea and curled up

a

my neck.

I

in a ball

on

loved that time in the morn-

OK. Heathrow, the

at the gate at

a standby seat.

last

Mark picked me up

drove north to meet Brian Hancock.

We

person to board

in

Boston and

we

—

talked feverishly in the car

on form. Brian had boundless energy, and it was evident just how much effort he had put into his own campaign. He seemed to live by its slogan, "Goals are just dreams with a deadline." He had bad news, however, which finally made sense of the e-mail I'd read in Scotland. He had attempted to sail Great Circle back to Marblehead for us to see, but on leaving Bermuda, he'd been caught up in a tropical storm and gone onto the reef. The boat had been damaged the forward fin ripped out, the keel scraped, and the rudder broken. We now had even more on our plate. Brian could see we were struggling, and he had decided that if Great Circle could not race around the world, she would be far better off racing in the Route du Rhum. He let us charter her for a fraction of the cost of felt

better now, relieved to be back

—

other boats.

156

Ellen MacArthur

Bermuda just two weeks later. Things were govery tight, and there seemed to be an impossible amount

The plan was ing to be very, to

to

fly

to

do back home.

Hugh Morrison was

trying to set

up

meeting with

a

thought might be a potential sponsor for

us. In the

UK,

company he

a

Kingfisher

PLC

owTied well-known brands such asWoolworths, Comet, Superdrug, and

B&Q, and Hugh

explained that they had similar brands in France and

other parts of Europe.

He

were English, wanting to compete

in a

out there to "take on" the French. Both of us fisher

was

a

a great

felt

European, and King-

Hugh might — boardroom door and make our

pan-European company

opportunity to walk through the

—

match for us we French race but in no way going

would be

felt that it

give us the

perfect.

case.

We

worked with Dick on the sponsorship video and put together a new presentation for the meeting. Although our most pressing battle was simply to get to the start of the Rhum, our strategy was to present a campaign culminating in the Vendee Globe; while that remained the ultimate, we planned to present the Route du Rhum as an imminent trial run for us and our sponsor. We would offer main sponsorship for the Rhum at a tiny price, but enough to give us a chance to show the sponsor what we were capable of doing. We simply had to give the meeting our best shot.

At the same time, we prepared Boat Show,

for a press launch at the

Southampton

now just a week away.

Mark, I've

spoken to Hugh, and he was great ...

him know

if

I

said

.

.

I

.

we're really scraping for money, and that he'd

be there to try to "unstick" us

if

we

marked how experienced we were together at the

He

more

we could (just feasibly) He said must let next Friday.

helpful than imaginable. ...

have the video done for

as usual,

last

got "stuck!"

He

also re-

at getting these projects

minute! He's such a great person.

said he's likely to have an

answer from the

.

.

.

KF group

by the end of next week. I

desperately need to get practicing "close racing!"

This, plus the weather routing I've

.

got to get some things right!

.

.

needs to happen.

.

.

.

.

.

.

!

World

Taking On the

157

words were to contact him without any hesitation whatsoever ... if there was anything he could do, or we were stuck. His final words were "No worHugh's

final

.

.

ries,

mate,

It's

I

.

.

think you're worth

.

.

.

it!"

priceless to have people like this

doubting, never pausing

.

around

.

.

.

never

always supporting, helping

.

and encouraging ...

And Mark, you There

is

are the same.

we

always a way,

will get there.

.

.

.

,

.

can always succeed, and

we

.

Thanks for everything. ... see

you

later

.

.

.

and smile e

XX

I

had also been asked to give

a

speech

at the

opening lunch of the

Southampton Boat Show. Once again it was going to be a busy show, and a lot of ground to cover in our time there. We borrowed a tank-

we had

model of an Open 60 from Thierry Dubois, a French sailor who has always keenly encouraged newcomers into the sport. We painted it silver and put stickers announcing "GLOBE 2000" on its side. We had to give out the right message, and we wanted no one to be in any doubt test

about the ambition and substance of our plans.

Our

first

press release

together under the banner of Offshore Challenges read:

—SINGLE-HANDED, NON-STOP,

GLOBE 2000

AROUND THE WORLD—TO WIN Today Ellen MacArthur announces her campaign for the

Vendee Globe single-handed, non-stop, round the world race in the year 2000. Whilst there are nowadays a

number

of round the world events, the Vendee Globe clearly re-

mains the pinnacle of human challenge professional

and competitive

as

—and nowadays

as

the Whitbread/ Volvo

Race.

Short-handed racing

UK, with

as

many

as

is

growing

fast in

popularity in the

ten skippers signed up for the next

158

Ellen MacArthur Mini Transat, and for the

first

time British born and based

professionals entering the professional French Figaro circuit.

Teaming up with fellow solo skipper and marketeer Mark Turner, and his company Offshore Challenges, the search has begun in earnest for a business partner and sponsor.

The

inspire as

from

objective

clear

is

many people

—

2000

is

£l

.5

win the

race, but also

along the way, whether

as possible

their armchairs or for their

get for Globe

to

own

campaigns. The bud-

million.

been

fast one for a The path has MacArthur and the learning curve steep

—

sults

prove her incredible

tiveness.

—

two-handed Great

but the re-

and her competi-

ability to learn,

With more than 30,000 miles

60s, a victorious

2 2 -year-old

Open

in

Britain,

50s and

and the tough

moving on to the 1997 Mini Transat under her next stage of Vendee Globe preparation, the Route du belt, she

is

Rhum. Departing from St.-Malo on 8 November the

most famous of French races

(an event recognized by

30 per cent of the French population vide the

first

this year, this

as a

whole) will pro-

solo big boat test for MacArthur.

The 4,000-

mile race includes some of the top names in the single-

handed

circuit,

of France

and takes the solo skippers from the north the Atlantic

across

Guadeloupe

to

the

in

Caribbean.

The boat she

will

be

sailing

Open 50 previously named

USA

is

a lightweight all

Great Circle. She

by Concordia Yachts for over

1

was

carbon

built in the

million dollars, and

has since never raced competitively, narrowly missing the qualification date for this year's

Around Alone

maybe she has something to prove? By the end of next week MacArthur should be

race

.

at sea

.

.

on

the delivery of the boat back from Bermuda, ready to

change

sails,

and

The programme to overcome the

fit is

an engine in preparation for the

start.

charged, but the participants motivated

hurdles!

World

Taking On the

From

begimiing just three years ago

a small

voyage

solo

Britain

in

a

21 -foot

—

Corribee

159

round

a

—

Ellen

MacArthur has progressed way beyond most people's exThere will be no change of pace. With her are a from inside fantastic group of sponsors and supporters

pectations.

—

and out of the marine industry

—

whom

without

this

would be impossible.

On the day of the project launch we received a call from Hugh Morrison to that

tell

us that

we had our meeting with

we hoped would

allow

all

Kingfisher

—

our plans to become

the meeting

reality.

was

It

arranged for the following Friday, just seven days away.

That evening keeping

me

1

went back to Ashley

me

fed while leaving

Ash was

Perrin's place.

on with

to get

brilliant,

writing. This time

I

just

got in and collapsed on a bean bag in the corner of the room, snatching

my boat show

only a couple of hours' sleep before getting up to prepare speech. I

knew

that

it

good one. The show was launching a new aimed at inspiring kids to get onto the water. I

had to be

a

campaign called Big Blue, wanted to show support for really are possible if you give

nicate

that cause and to demonstrate that things

them your

my passion. would have

to stand

1

knew

all. I

that

I

had to commu-

my heart on

up there and wear

my sleeve. I

was incredibly nervous

as

I

stood alone

at the

microphone, hearing

my heart pounding away in my chest. Normally when invited to lunch, and ask years

I

a boat,

if

I

could please have the

collected

my

politely decline,

money

instead. For ten

lunch money, on a mission to save for

each day placing the 70 pence in

asked Denzil

if

my

tin!

instead

Since then things have

moved

1

.

.

on.

.

I

maybe

I

I

should have

have spent four solid

years working on projects, racing, crossing oceans really living.

When

this was possible today, he cunningly sug-

make a speech kept my mouth shut!

gested

would

I

The decision

to

sail

full-time was,

always will be, the best decision of my

life.

.

.

and

1

.

and

hope

160

Ellen MacArthur

Many of you will remember the project for

me

until this year.

MiniTransat, the biggest

Over 4,000 miles of "hard-

core" racing in 21 -foot skiff-like boats, cabins resembling

no

the interior of washing machines (size included!),

bunks, no sleeping bags, freeze-dried food, and the ocean.

A wonderful race

—

I

much about campaigns, racmade world, and about others.

learnt so

ing alone, myself, the

I

some fantastic friends, and through this race have teamed up with Mark Turner, with whom I now work on future Offshore Challenges is a projects. Not only for ourselves inspire others, and to work help and designed to company with them to achieve their goals.

—

As with any industry, we face huge hurdles. Just eighteen days ago, and weeks from the start of my next race, the Open 50 we'd been promised for the Route du Rhum was withdrawn. Since then we've travelled over 8,000 miles in search of a

new

boat. Having found one in the States,

out next weekend to

weeks

sail

her

home

I

fly

to a race start just three

later.

Tiny things can make an immense difference, and people's kindness

But

this is

and support

in

whatever form

not about asking for charity;

ing for help.

The bottom

line

it's

priceless.

not about plead-

business. Single-handed

is

sailing in particular has the potential to

barrier of people's perceptions.

is

break through the

can dismiss the

It

elitist

image, bringing passion, emotion, and feelings into people's

homes.

If

someone

is

exhausted, happy, or emotional,

anyone can understand, anyone can to be a sailor or even have set foot

relate.

on

a

You don't have

boat before.

Eight hundred thousand people will descend on St.-

Malo

for the start of the

Route du

The event is on national TV and radio, and France as Formula 1 Grand Prix.

time.

"live" in

Rhum

in

two months'

covered extensively, the start shown it's

virtually as popular

Their sailors are heroes. They are setting goals; they are winning. Young people in France believe that they can do that too, because they can see,

and have access

to, this sue-

World

Taking On the Each and every one of them

cess.

heve their nation

feels a part of it,

161

and I be-

feels this.

was here at the show. I knew no one in the industry but was so quickly supported and accepted. I have been lucky I was a wide-eyed teenager, finding my feet during a single-handed round Britain sail. 1 was young, naive, and soaking up the atmosphere. People have helped me, supported me, and believed in me. The BMIF took me under their wing and Exactly three years ago,

I

—

me

gave

chances to speak, to talk to people, and to learn

hope that in time 1 not only can return this, but put more back in. I do not know where my motivation has come from, but more.

I

feel

ers,

I

it is

my goal to

pass

it

on, to help and encourage oth-

and to sow the seeds of inspiration, which transform

dreams into

reality: to race, to

compete, or simply to enjoy

the water. In the next ten days

race happen.

over

New

my head. This

tal for

the future.

sailing,

I

have to find £25,000 to

sails, a

new

end of the sport

The

the Formula

1

make

this

engine, travel, and a roof

expensive, but so

is

vi-

football industry will not

promote

industry will not promote

sailing. It

down to us. One thing I've learnt over the past years is that if deep down in your heart you have a goal, you can achieve it.

is

Getting to this stage has pushed ever imagined, but

I

it's

hard, harder than

have experienced

warding and more beautiful than Yes,

me in

true, luck does play a part in

moments more

my it.

and are determined, you can build your realize that vision

is

really

not so

I

re-

wildest dreams.

But

if

own

you

luck

believe, .

.

.

and

far away.

As I spoke my final words, there was silence. I had to pause for breath between the sentences to try to calm myself. I was completely exhausted, and letting all that out in one hit had just about finished me off. As I sat down, the world closed around me I could make out faces, but their words didn't connect. I suppose it was the relief of having shared so

—

Ellen Mac Arthur

162

much. The bottom Hne port of all those

who

is

that

we

could not have coped without the sup-

around

rallied

work on both

After the show,

us.

the race and our crucial sponsorship

presentation continued at fever pitch. sulted in offers of everything

from

The speech had immediately

re-

free berthing for Great Circle to a free

engine and other bits of gear for the boat.

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 02:21:39 still up We were working on the promotional video tonight as usual! 0059. We have a meeting on Friday with a sponsor we .

hope

will

come

.

.

in for the next three years. However, there's a

fair bit of persuading to do on this front, and we've never met

him

before.

.

.

.

We're in a bit offinancial strife her el We're cleaned out after sail deposits, charterfees, insurance premiums,flights Allfairly stressed. and "everyday bills." We should have had the entrance fee in by the end of last week, but they've given us till this weekend to come up with the .

money. £4, 500. Later that day

I

.

.

.

.

called

keep her up to date with

moment

.

Mum, all

and though

that

1

had phoned sporadically to

was going on,

how bad

1

don't think she realized

was desperate and just needed to share the burden. 1 had held back before, as 1 didn't want to worry my parents, but right now I just had to call. We had less than fortyuntil that

quite

things were.

I

we would be out of the race. and Dad had clearly been discussing

eight hours before, without the entry fee,

Since the holiday in Scotland, things

between themselves, because

saying a word. able.

I

Mum

Mum then said

was puzzled;

I

still

after first listening to

quietly that there

owed them £l 5,000

me

without

was some money

avail-

for the MiniTransat.

My eyes welled with you £5,000 in her tears she was still making the difference. It may have been the last minute, but we'd be on that start line now. I gave Mum the race organiz"Your Nan

—

ers'

bank

left

will."

Oh, Nan!

details.

The surprises didn't stop there, though. That same evening, I was asked if I would present the prizes for CowesWeek. I was supposed to be with Mark and Dick working on the video, but I decided to go anyway. I arrived in a terrible state. I'd bailed out of Ashley's that morning and

Taking On the had run from the boat show with and sweating.

took

I

a

presentable, and as the

deep breath lift

my bags. As

all

World

arrived,

I

I

163

was flushed

attempt to make myself look

in an

headed to the top

floor,

leant back against

I

its

cool wall and took advantage of the brief moment of peace to drift away.

was shown round by Bill West, whose company was behind the awards, and recognized Johnny Caulcutt, who'd supported our Mini I

Transat campaign.

We

talked,

all

and

I

couldn't hide the fact that things

were pretty dire. I explained that we'd just managed to charter a boat and just managed to pay the entrance fee. How we were still in the race by the skin of our teeth. Our conversation was cut short by the prize-giving, and after a brief introduction by Bill, I handed over each prize in turn. As things were drawing to an end, Johnny leapt up on stage without warning and began to recount our conversation, finishing emphatically,

"Now,

needs support right now!

this girl

pledge £1,000, won't you?" And within

most £5,000.

me

aged

I've

to say a

five

no recollection of what

few words.

heartfelt thank-you.

I

I

just

pledge £1,000.

I

know

1

Bill,

you'll

we had raised alwhen Johnny encour-

minutes, said

that they

ended with the most

only hoped that each person

who had

supported

us had just an inkling of what a difference they had made.

wanted to hug everyone in the room. As soon as I could, I raced outside to call Mark and tell him not to despair. He immediately recited a string of problems with the video and he sounded very depressed. The computer had just crashed, and they needed to start a whole section I

from

scratch.

"Mark,"

I

said, "I've

got some good news. We've got £5,000. Johnny

Caulcutt just stood up and raised £5,000."

I'm sure Mark thought all,

saying

little

I

was winding him up,

more than "I have

to go, see

you

as

he

failed to react at

later" before

hanging up.

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:11:03

Anotherfairlyfull on day. Found out today that the rudderfor Great Circle is being rebuilt, and will not be flown out (nor will the owner, as he's

The more There

is

I think

coming with

it!) till

Monday 21st!!!!

about the problem, the stronger Ifeel.

such determination inside me; I can feel

not give up, and we will get there

There

is

it.

.

.

.We

and not justfor me. a way, and I shall run and run until Ifind it. .

.

.

will

Ellen MacArthur

164

upon us. Since starting on the video, we had worked non-stop, snatching no more than eight hours' sleep altogether in three days. At nine in the morning on the day of the presentation, we were still getting documents bound. It felt like all or nothing. The following day, I was flying out to Bermuda Friday was suddenly

and

now we were

heading for the meeting that held the potential to

met Hugh in London, and we all jumped in a cab to head for Kingfisher's office. Hugh was a calming presence. If he was nervous, it was impossible to tell. He'd obviously done a lot more of this than we had. It was intimidating to walk into an enormous boardroom to which we felt so unaccustomed. But we thought the meeting went well, and by the end I think that CEO Geoff Mulcahy's interest had certainly grown for the project. Hugh had sat down on the opposite side of the table from us; Mark and were there to sell the project. change everything. Mark and

I

I

We talked predominantly

about the Vendee Globe, showing the video

we had produced with Dick and

talking through slides

we had

created.

We

were passionate about the fact that a project such as the Vendee Globe could work, and that we were not asking for the money just to enable us to stick their name on a boat's hull and go sailing. We wanted to work with the company to make the sponsorship work for them, both internally and externally. We felt that some sailing sponsors had been "used" in the past, and

happen. As

far as

we

emphatically were not going to allow this to

we were concerned, we would

would work as a team. What was initially a chance meeting on later

become

a critical factor.

tant call and briefly greeted a

Geoff

left

be

leaving the

room

the

man who was

pered to Mark, "You should engage

all

in

together and

boardroom would

to answer an impor-

leaving the

this guy."

it

lift.

Hugh

whis-

Mike Hingston was not

only a keen sailor but a perfectionist with vision.

Three months rate Affairs

and

a

later,

he became Kingfisher PLC's Director of Corpo-

key decision-maker

when

it

came

to sponsorship.

Chapter Twelve

When

met Liam and Chris at Heathrow, don't think they had a clue what they were letting themselves in for; they were willing volunteers for the delivery from Bermuda. Liam had been working at Ocean Village on the trimaran Spirit of England when had been working on the Open 50 that David and had sailed in the Round Britain and Ireland Race. We had kept in touch since then, and both Merv and thought he was more than up to the job of helping with the delivery of Great Circle. Liam was from Liverpool and had a great sense of humour; his laughter proved to be a precious commodity in the weeks that followed. barely knew Chris. He was hoping to do the MiniTransat the following year and had already bought a boat. He was about to take part in the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) to get miles under his keel, but before that, the trip back from Bermuda was a great opportunity to gain open I

I

I

I

I

I

ocean experience.

When we

I

think he got a bit

more

than he bargained for!

arrived in Bermuda, the weather was deteriorating.

headed for the Customs House

Once on board we made

in St. George's, w^here the

boat was

We ly-

home, and I was impressed with how well built Great Circle seemed. Everything was clean and tidy, and there was even enough food on board from Brian's trip to fashion a meal later. There was a bunk on each side of her, and in the centre she had a canting chart table facing a Recaro race seat. I dropped my sleeping-bag on it and gave the guys the bunks I'd need to get used to sleeping.

ourselves at

—

ing in

it

anyway. 165

166

Ellen MacArthur

We

wanted to see what state the keel was in, as we knew that she'd suffered damage on the reef last time she was sailed. Besides, we'd been travelling all day and it was stinking hot. soon jumped off for

swim.

a

I

Hi Mark,

you know the situation with the boat. We're alongside in Bermuda. The boat is relatively OK, although the mainsail and rudder are a large problem.

Just to let

Brian has not arrived yet; he should be flying in today. Apparently he had problems getting the rudderstock through

Customs. The

new one

is

heavy

fairly

No

the weight of the old one!

.

.

.

times

like three

choices on this one now,

though.

The had

it

mainsail will,

up

So

yet.

I

hope,

far things

the trip, but

last

we

haven't

have been very, very hot, very,

very windy, and very, very, very wet. We've had squalls so strong the aircraft have not been able to land!

The rudder

another problem. There's a lot to do on

is

We literally have

some

foam shapes here, that's

A

not even really rudder shape! only

know when

Brian arrives.

me. The thought of

glassing

big job, and

It

seems

foam

it.

They're

all.

more

I

will

a little suspect to

fairings

onto an

alu-

minium stock does not fill me with a feeling of security! I will mail Merv and Nigel now to ask for advice. As far as life in Bermuda is concerned. Great people, extremely hot, at least

warm

twice

its

Food

water, but very, very expensive.

price in the

meal

selves here, but each

UK. We have cooked

for our-

40

dollars!

is

costing at least

Money is going quickly. am worried about stocking up

for

1

the trip back.

hundreds.

.

.

1

guess

much,

just have to

go for

it,

but

it

will

be

.

The generator played with

1

is

it

will not start at

a little, although

as Brian obviously

all

right now.

We've

I'm loath to play with

knows

too

much, much working." Head-

the systems

The Ockham electronics are works, but no wind-speed, wind

it

better.

"half

ing

direction, etc.

'

Taking On the be fun too.

Fitting the engine will

If

World

we change one

167

for

the other, we'll have the sail-drive leg sticking through the

rudder tube! Problems.

.

.

.

The mast leaks like mad around lem right now though.

Hope

all's

Minor prob-

the base.

well there, thanks for everything,

Please mail back with any news. We '11 be at least another

three days here ... a bloody expensive three days at that. Ellen

XX As planned, Brian flew stock, and

in for a

we immediately

couple of days with the

new rudder-

rose to the challenge of preparing the boat

whole thing began to take shape, I realized that the key-way at the top of the rudder was back to front. This meant worse than that we could only fit the rudder in the boat backwards useless. This was disastrous: we were already delayed and now had to with enthusiasm. But

as the

—

find a

machine shop which might be able to mill out

ing a

—

which we number of inquiries, we managed

other side

a flat area

on the

could onlv hope would be a solution. After mak-

stock could be ground

down

to be milled gave Brian and

to

me

fit.

a

At

to find a

least the

machine shop where the

time

it

took for the stock

chance to go through the electronics

and instruments on board, and to spend an evening together on the dockside discussing the sailing of her. The day after we'd collected the rudderstock, Brian flew back to the States.

We were

on our own, but throughout, the warmth of the

and their willingness to help were priceless. tired harbourmaster,

people

One of them was the

Bernard Oaklev or "Bitzy,"

—

local

re-

who would come down

on his moped a lovely and unbelievably helpful guy who deserves a medal for his services to sailors. His brother owned the local hardware shop, and as there was no real yacht chandlery, we beto see us everv dav

came very dependent on Bitzy's brother. Cannon Ball, a big friendly guv who wore his baseball cap under his crash helmet, also made Bermuda feel like a different place. He came

moped just to ask, "How ya doing?" It's a measure of how bedraggled we must have looked that he showed up one day with a bag down on

his

Ellen MacArthur

168

of clothes for us from the local charity shop. Chris was particularly taken with a pair of bright green trousers, which needed the ankle cuffs cut off and the waistband folded 1

down just to

immense pressure during our

felt

fit.

Bermuda, and though

days in

desperately wanted just to have a laugh with the others,

detached from them.

On

towni for a few beers, but

any more pied.

1

a

money than we had

was worried,

really

completely

couple of evenings they went off into the

could not go with them, as

1

felt

1

I

to,

and

worried

my mind was

—we had

1

dared not spend

completely preoccu-

rudder to

a

repair, there

were three hurricanes tracking towards us, and we just had to get out of there. As they recounted their tales the following morning I smiled but felt a

million miles away.

Still,

the guys ground out the day's work, although

I

think that Chris

wondered what on earth he was doing there. I don't blame him. They were both amazing, and it made a massive difference to have their help and support. They both did it all for nothing. We had paid for their flights but could not pay them for the work that was necessary just in particular

to

make Great Circle seaworthy. The rudder was a massive job

complete. When finished

it

that

took the best part of a week to

was by no means

perfect, but

it

had to work.

However, getting the stock up inside the boat might well have turned out to be a hellish task, as she was moored alongside the dock. I envisaged the 1 20-kilo stock sinking to the bottom underneath the boat. As it

we had While this made

floated despite

turned out, once

actually repaired

weight.

fitting it easier, it also

it, it

created

its

its

own

great set of

problems. Amazingly, local people appeared from nowhere to watch the event they all came to see what was going on. We couldn't have

—

wdshed for

a

more

helpful audience. With the rudder floating,

we had

to

some of our audience disappeared in search of something appropriate, returning later with an enormous piece of castiron drainpipe. This we tied to the rudder in a way that allowed us to control the depth to which the whole weighted arrangement sank. Liam diWng under, holding our breath, making and I swam beneath the boat sure it was aligned with the hole. When released, the rudder floated up underneath the boat, and I think everyone was amazed when this strat-

find a

way of sinking

it,

so

—

egy worked and the stock

fitted exactly in place.

Taking On the

We had been told that

World

169

on the boat were adequate to deliver Great Circle back to the UK, where we planned to replace them. As it happened, they were rather less than adequate particularly the mainsail. In fact, they were barely in one piece one side of the main had even been completely covered with adhesive sailcloth in an attempt to hold the whole thing together. The existing inboard engine was also in the old

sails

— —

and could be started only by shorting

a shocking state

screwdriver.

We

got

it

going, but once

it

was running

it

it

out with a

made

a variety

of frightening rattling sounds.

On

we

emergency outboard engine (our only propulsion, as the inboard engine was only for charging batteries) to make sure all was OK. We'd tested it a couple of times and had got it going, but weatherwise we were looking at sailing into a large high-pressure system, which was good news on the hurricane front but bad news on the wind front. With this in mind, Liam suggested it would be a good idea to check over the outboard and clean the spark plugs. He went at it with a spark-plug wrench, and quite soon a loud "f***" told us the final morning,

started the

had sheared off inside the engine.

that a spark plug

The nearest machine shop was $20 to get the engine there. happened.

We

little

I

a taxi ride away,

walked

in

My heart sank. and we used our

last

and told the guys what had

fought with the engine for three hours, but the thread

was completely corroded to the cylinder. The engineer shook his head. If it had not been for the incredible help we received there, we might never have left they called every outboard engine supplier on

—

the island, and

on

costing $2,500.

I

their last call

knew

full

man who had a suitable engine only one of my credit cards might

found

well that

a

$600 transaction had already been refused. I phoned the credit card company in a final attempt to beg for a higher limit. I began to explain the situation, but as soon as 1 mentioned Bermuda, I was told that there had been a problem with the lines and that my earwork, and that

lier

a

attempt should have been

OK.

I

had barely enough, but enough.

Thank God. This piece of good news was followed by a fore

we

left

Bermuda,

I

called

much

better one. Just be-

Mark. His news took

Kingfisher had confirmed that they

would sponsor us

my

breath away.

for the

Route du

Rhum. Absolutely elated with the news, I ran to tell Chris and Liam. Although it didn't make much difference to our immediate plans, it lifted

Ellen MacArthur

170

Bermuda on a high. knew that our quest for the Vendee Globe was starting to come within reach. As we left we hoisted the sails behind two cruise ships. We were our

all

spirits,

elated. it

On

seemed

and we

left

I

several occasions that there

problems had looked insurmountable, and

would be no option but to

home.

fly

We

hadn't

showered in ten days and had lived in clothes covered with carbon, grease, and resin. The conditions in St. George's had been pretty miser-

Only the wonderful support of the people in Bermuda had made things possible. Now at last our destiny was in our own hands again. able.

Most

days on the Great

—

Circle epic

from Bermuda

—

as

it

was soon to be

dubbed we worked on the sails, fixing holes and just trying to get them to stay together long enough to see us home. As we helmed, there was a regular shower of glue and flakes falling on us the sails were lit-

—

erally disintegrating over

But as though the

was

also

mal

about to test

hurricane

Caribbean

—

Roughly

us.

Bermuda

1

were not

Hurricane

us.

—

a big

heading

enough problem, the weather

Lisa, instead of following the nor-

west

and

then

came charging northward up

,000 miles into our trip

we had

from

north

the

the Atlantic towards

to turn back towards

two and a half days to avoid the storm. It was massively but it would have been idiotic to try to battle it out, espe-

for

frustrating, cially

track

instead

our heads.

sails

with the mainsail in

its

fragile condition.

We

just couldn't have

managed it. We fretted about the possibility of breakages from the rudder on up, but our major goal was to get back across the Atlantic to Britain and then sort things out. We were not racing, but we had to make it to the other side; that was our sole aim. We had planned to replace the new sails were being made as we rigging once back in Southampton sailed

—and back

—

in

Mark was spending the

list

Cowes

all his

was going into the project. time trying to work out a schedule for us, and a lot of effort

of jobs was growing by the minute.

We were

sailing as conservatively as possible,

but even

so,

I

remember

amount of wind wdth three reefs. We were under-canvased, but we did not want to go back to two reefs, because then we would be carrying slightly too much sail. In the end, though, we were forced to go back to two reefs simply because the third had all but pulled out of the sail. The second reef appeared to be the that at

one point we were

sailing in a fair

Taking On the World strongest of all the points. To say that things

an understatement. We had to do the best

we

humour on board was

Despite everything,

were

from

far

171

would be

ideal

could in the circumstances.

outstanding.

don't think

I

we

were demoralized, and the guys were fantastic. We all just got on with the grim situation, which perhaps just seemed too farcical to be an>thing but laughable to them, and certainly they always tried to see the funny side of

each situation.

We

occasionally trailed a line, never really expecting to

catch anything, but one afternoon Liam and

1

caught an enormous dorado

Our on-board diet was fairly basic, we ate the whole thing by sunset.

off the stern deck.

enjoy fresh

fish

—

so

it

was great to

hoped that with her new sails and faired rudder her performance would improve. The stakes had been raised greatlv with the news that Kingfisher was sponsoring us, so while needed to learn more about the boat, also had to deliver in the race to secure our future. It was a real concern to perform

Great Circle didn't

as

I

had imagined she would, but

I

I

think

how unprepared

About

week

a

I

to race she was.

was ripping

into our trip, the luff of the mainsail

apart,

tearing at the batten seams. Everyone's patience was tested to the limit, as virtually

every stitch had to be preceded by a brad-awl hole, or else a

second person was needed on the other side to retrieve the needle.

ended up sewing webbing hold

it

tog^ether.

We

sewed

straps

around the

for davs

sailcloth in an

on end, and

that

I

attempt to

was the most de-

moralizing thing for Chris and Liam. They'd signed up to Atlantic, not to limp across as tailor's apprentices.

We

across the

sail

felt guilty,

but they

never complained.

We made

a decision to

the mainsail. But as

put into the Azores, where

we approached

the islands,

into reception for the first time in just

under

my

we

mobile came back

month, and

a

Mark, uncertain of which course of action would be have to wait two days for the for Spain instead

new member tell this

to

—

it

sails

to arrive, so

would be much

of the team, to transport the

Liam and

Chris.

We

were

I

easier for sails

could replace

best.

spoke to

I

We

suggested that

Merv and Sam there.

I

found

a mile off the entrance to

would

we head Davies, a

it

hard to

Horta

in

the Azores and could practically taste the ice-cold beers!

The disappointment was exacerbated by days, probably the most difficult of the whole I

wrote

in

my log:

the next trip.

few

frustrating

We had no wdnd,

and

Ellen MacArthur

172

Battered and exhausted. Mentally tested and just "hanging;

hanging in" If there were ever a test of endurance as far as I've ever been tested anjway now is it. How late can this RUN? It's never time to give in, we're almost on European shores and we shall not give in until she reaches

them with the three of us on

board.

When we

finally arrived in Spain, it

planned to set

sail

teen days before

once again to the

we were due

in

was

far

from

over.

That evening

I

UK with new sails. We had just thir-

St.-Malo for the start of the Route du

Rhum, still with a million repairs, an engine to fit, and a delivery to the UK, then France! Another new priority was to take a few promotional photos that needed to be sent back

—

of

only clean piece of clothing

I

me

wearing

now

my

possessed!

first

I'd

Kingfisher shirt, the

spoken to Merv

a

few

was wonderful to see him again. Late in the afternoon, Merv took a call from Mark. Even recalling it now makes the hairs on the back of my neck stand up. I was lying on the times from Bermuda, but

it

gravel in the car park, trying to attach one of the batten fittings.

handed the phone to me, and happen when Mark

said,

I

Merv

knew something important was about

"Make sure you're

sitting

to

down."

"Don't worry, I'm lying down," I replied.

He took still

then told

a

I

long time for his

had to

sail

on the next plane home to Britain. It words even to register. I told him he was nuts.

me needed

to get

I

the boat back for the qualifier, and

home for some meeting. He had difficulty making me such a pace that

I

didn't have time to

fly

my mind was racing at He told me wasn't going to

understand,

wasn't really listening.

1

as

I

felt sick du Rhum. I deep in the pit of my stomach. I was light-headed and confused. Entirely without my knowledge, Mark had negotiated some additional funds from Kingfisher to charter Aqua Quorum, the boat in which Pete Goss

race Great Circle in the Route

feared the worst and

had competed in the Vendee Globe, and he had

just received confirma-

were no more flights to the UK that day, so I had to spend a night in Spain. With no necessity to work on Great Circle, it was the first time I had relaxed in months. There was nothing more I could do. Indeed, we all talked and enjoyed each other's

tion seconds before calling. There

Taking On the company, laughing about things which

beyond belief. Next morning I jumped on the and the others finished the felt a

pang of regret

final

that after

at the

first flight

jobs on Great

all

World

173

time had seemed obstacles

back to Circle.

we had been

Britain, while

As

I

sat

Merv

on the plane

I

and

I

through. Great

Circle

would not be racing together. But I couldn't help but feel it was our only choice. We had been delayed so many times now that we would only have been able to spend a few days in the UK not really enough to complete the jobs that were necessary for her just to qualify. It was sad after being forced to pull out of one race, he for Brian Hancock, too had lost the glimmer of hope that the boat might race in another. I wrote

—

—

him

a letter,

I

am

which

finished:

sorry not to have taken GC.

to the airport.

You do develop

over a period of time.

I

was sad

I

a relationship

works

in strange

ways.

deadlines. That's the problem! Brian, thanks for

Will be in touch, kind regards ellen

all

we drove

off

with a boat

was never worried about her

strength. She lives for the surf, and Life

as

.

.

It's

.

is

very easy to

sail.

Goals are dreams with

a shit fight out there.

your support.

Chapter Thirteen

When

I

landed

few hours

in

down to Southampton, spent a Cowes, and met with Nigel Irens, who was dri-

London took I

in the office in

the train

ving to the West Country that evening. This was a happy coincidence, and it

was wonderful to

discuss

we had been through with someone who

all

We drove through the night, arriving in the early

understood the

situation.

morning hours

at Nigel's office inTotnes,

As

I

woke

the following day

I

was

where

1

slept

on the

tired but excited.

I

floor.

had read Pete

way back across the Atlantic, but the possibility of chartering Aqua Quorum from him came as a complete surprise. My understanding was that Andy Hindley was going to sail her Goss's book, Close

to the

Wind, on the

However, Andy, a member of Pete's team, had not been able sponsorship. When I arrived in the boat shed Andy was there, di-

in the race.

to find

recting the

work on

the boat.

sorrow he had to be feeling

at

I

felt for

him, and could only imagine the

being unable to race.

The boat had been laid up for some time, so there was a tremendous amount still to do to get her ready in time for the race. The mast wasn't in, the keel wasn't on, and some of the electronics were missing, but somehow we got everything done, and when the logos were finally applied, she looked fantastic. I was desperately trying to get some rest, as well as to be down in the yard for the important jobs that were being done. There were interviews, too. A French TV crew came over to Plymouth, wrapping up by asking, "So tell me, Ellen, what is your favourite French phrase?" 174

Taking On the World I

this

has

thought about

it

175

then repHed, "A donf!" Slang for "Go for

briefly,

it,"

was seized on by the French pubhc watching the programme, and

become

We

the slogan for

were hampered by

all

it

our campaigns.

gales

all

week, but

we

just before

left for St.-

went with Pete for a test sail in Plymouth Sound on Aqua Quorum, now renamed Kingfisher. It was blowing about a Force 7, and I doubted that we would be able to make it out against the wind, but Pete knew her well, and we had a cracking sail for an hour or so. Ashore, the team was fantastic, and Pete's team couldn't have been more helpful, which meant 1 was able to take a little time away from the boat. AlMalo,

I

though

I

found

it

difficult

not to be there

not to be doing the jobs myself

—

to be tough, and that this really

I

sailed off to St.-Malo.

Town

in a

Race.

I

knew

was

my

—and

that the next

particularly

weeks were going

opportunity to check over

last

and to spend a couple of mornings with Merv

charts and weather tactics

before

I

the time

all

Merv

himself would be flying to Cape

few davs for Mike Goldin^'s next stop on the Around Alone

would have loved

to have had

him nearby

for the last

week before

the start of the race.

Nothing could have prepared me before the event, but

of people

start.

was aware

I

me

took

it still

who came

—

for St.-Malo

—and

Route du

that the

the atmosphere

Rhum

was

a

massive

by surprise to see the thousands and thousands

to see the start. By the time of the start, cars

—

all

town were parked bumper to bumper for miles on every approach road. The dock held thirty-six of the most beautiful boats I'd ever seen. They were lined up on the pontoons, decorated with flags and facing into

lit

by I

floodlights.

I

very privileged even to have a slot there.

felt

had never before been asked for

leave the cabin without hearing

graphs and found

it

my

my

autograph, but here

name.

I

spent hours signing auto-

holding out their programmes and pieces of paper.

to see us not because

we

did and wanted to

it

is

As the week slipped

far

was

show by,

could not

to walk away when so many people were

difficult

ent that sailing in France

I

from an

was quickly appar-

sport. People

were coming

hobby but because they enjoyed what support by wishing us "bon vent."

their

their I

elitist

It

still

found

I

was

talking to journalists for hours

on end. St.-Malo was wearing me down. It was increasingly hard to spend time anywhere other than hidden away. And as the number of

Ellen MacArthur

176

people arriving in town increased, so the number of interviews seemed to explode exponentially.

but there

all in,

was

much

only so

is

I

very wide-eyed and keen to soak

still

it

of this you can do before becoming satu-

me going,

rated. Luckily, the euphoria of being there kept

and Mark was

same position. His brain was working overtime as he tried to juggle the demands for interviews with time for the team, discussing final adjustments that needed to be made to the boat. I spent what free time 1 had learning about various emergency procein the

dures, the electronic systems, and the hydraulic keel with Jim Doxey,

from Pete's team, who had worked on the concept of the boat. There were always solutions needed on a boat designed for a 6 -foot- tall mariner

(I

am

only 5 feet, 3^2 inches

of the cleats on the mast and had to

tall)

—

I

jump up

could not even reach some to

them each

several evenings poring over the weather charts with

"Capey," the

new team

eyes open.

Most of the weather

—

expert, but

I

was so

tired

reports,

it

—

I

time.

I

spent

Andrew Cape,

could hardly keep

my

seemed, contained bad

news big depressions, a string of them and it was obvious that this was not going to be easy. One weather fax had "bomb" plainly written on it. Even Capey said he'd never come across that before. Great, I thought, that's all

we

need!

from Kingfisher PLC when CEO Sir Geoff Mulcahy and Mike Hingston, who had both been present at our initial meeting, fought their way through the crowds to come aboard. I didn't know whether to shake their hands or hug them, as I knew it was That

day,

we had our first

visitors

only through their support that we'd progressed this tall,

but despite

his

You knew

that

described the process,

four spinnakers out of

our big chance. reason, and

I

day, the

felt

I

its

as

how

was conscious bag.

I

supporter of

I

put the spinnakers up, and

that

I

it

as

had only seen one of the

was confident, though, because

this

was

sure that Kingfisher had said yes to our project for a

drew strength from

That evening, next

1

a passionate

once he was committed to something he'd give

everything he had. Geoff asked about I

Geoff was very

imposing presence, he remained approachable.

Mike, responsible for corporate PR, was also ours.

far.

we took

that thought.

Kingfisher

crowds went wild, and

warmth and encouragement. quately, "Merci, Merci."

It

I

through the locks for the 1

tingled

waved back

at

start the

from head to toe

at their

them and shouted

was now nearly midnight, and

literally

inade-

thousands

Taking On the of people were jamming the sides of the lock and the docks. the

morning when

a quick call to

I

World It

was

eventually crawled beneath the sheets to sleep.

Merv and drifted

At 1 302 THE GUN went

off.

I

was

tired but

still

177

early in I

made

relaxed.

off.

team had clambered off the boat. It was a powerful moment, the reward for months of determination. As he left, Mark was unable to articulate the intensity of his feelings, but he didn't need to; his face said it all. We had succeeded. We were on the Just ten minutes earlier,

all

the

start line.

After the gun, as the boats jostled for position, for I

our safety than anything

want to have

didn't

else.

I

was more concerned

There were race boats everywhere, and

a collision so close to the start.

I

was out there

rac-

ing with a large proportion of the best single-handed sailors in the

world. This was It

it;

was hazy and

my

turn.

drizzly,

out than other boats, so fleet.

Mum

I

but thankfullv there was wind. spent the

first

I

was farther

hour more alone than with the

and Dad, who'd arrived the day before, came alongside

RIB to

say

goodbye before watching

caught

my

last sight

in a

their daughter sail off into a gale.

I

of them before they turned for home, their faces be-

traying a mixture of pride, happiness, and concern.

They very nearly were

in

broke

failed to

down

make

it

at all,

right in the path of

however,

Mike

when

the boat they

Birch's trimaran.

The un-

derstandable abuse that came their way during his avoiding manoeuvres

among

memories of the day. As we approached Cap Frehel, we were still surrounded by spectator boats from tiny fishing dories to family cruisers and cross- Channel ferries. All shouted encouragement. The clifftops of Cap Frehel itself were also lined with excited people, all cheering "Allez, Ellen!" or "A donf!" There were tears in my eyes, and the emotion inside was hard to contain. Both praise and support were relentless. These people were proud of us, too. It almost seemed that they understood the strain of the past months. Their smiles and good wishes were telling me that all would be well and that all the trouble had been worth it. is

surely

their

most

vivid

—

By MIDNIGHT on the first night, it had blown up. The barometer fell and wind howled through the rigging. Changing sails on the foredeck

the

Ellen MacArthur

178

was

lethal. Kingfisher tried

just tried to cling to her.

onto the deck

as

her hull

her best to cling to the water's surface, while

I

was being pounded, thrown again and again flicked up to hit me while I was slammed down I

—

it was unrelenting. With by the motion of falling from the wave before each impact I closed my eyes and gritted my teeth, hanging on as tightly as possible. I tried everything to calm her, but the waves were enor-

mous, and whether we charged over them or ing to hurt.

A as

hard lesson learned, though

it

—

fell

Pete's boat

down them,

was unusual

did not have furling foresails, which allow the

around the forestay by

a control line

pit rather than requiring a sailor to

deck work

heavy weather

in

stronger than

I.

He had gone

not taking furling

sails. It

worked from the

in the fleet,

to be rolled

safety of the cock-

on, and Pete was clearly

for the reliability option in the

was

shame we had not had time

a

was go-

handle them on the foredeck. Fore-

fairly full

is

sails

it

Vendee by to

fit

them

before the start of the race.

The wind continued to rise during the first few days. On the third day storm-jib on the foredeck when I was I was changing down to the thrown off my feet and cracked my head hard against the inner forestay rod, resulting in an instant lump and a strange nausea. Soon afterwards the front passed, only to bring even stronger 5 5 -knot gusts in a steady

45 -knot wind. side the boat

It

was an unreal, crazy

situation; just trying to

hang on

in-

took every ounce of my strength. Food was hurled around

the cabin, along with water containers and spares, while

I

tried to scrape

up and put them back in the boxes. My hands stung, my eye was swollen, and my wrists were already covered with open sores. The Quebec-St.-Malo had been very tough physically, but nothing like this.

things

In fact, conditions

were so bad

that

Mark Gatehouse, an experienced

English single-handed sailor and a friend of Alan

been thrown across the cabin and smashed

home just days into the Dawn brought some

his ribs, forcing

him

to head

race. respite.

My

core temperature

freezing night, but

whenever

a sail change, I'd

once again cool to

proved virtually impossible cold.

Wynne -Thomas, had

I

—

warmed

after the

sweated through the physical exertion of

^just

a shiver

when

I

finished. Sleep

snatched ten-minute bursts ended by

World

Taking On the Sent: 9/1

179

1/98 2:50

Received: 9/1 1/98 6:34

From: Kingfisher, [email protected]

M. FullOn but allOK bar unbearable godsend. 45 knts plus. Fredeck

is

shddering. Survival suit

s

hell!

Lst night was bad, so very cold. If my eyes closed to sleep They would opento find me shvering. Decsion making hard, getting strm jib ondeck yest pm felt like climbing everest. Fightingthis cold and enrgyless state. Can hrdly type, thnkx fr messges. [Very] welcme!

Love to

M&D.

two days

Just

was not only swollen, and

Love from

a

batered

later conditions

head was aching

water washed breathtakingly over sails. It

it

needed to change one

I

some of ward,

I

sail

change

the spray, close

After a

my

week

my

and

sail

my grip on

dragged the

had to use

the

sail

that

me

I

back several

sail tie

along;

it

even further.

I

would collapse

into the

little

sail

it.

Once

for-

hank by hank.

cuddy

seats

out of

eyes briefly, and try to recover.

things finally began to calm, and with

my wrists and fingers swollen, remove my survival suit. Though

I

my

finally

backside red-

enjoyed the

14/11/98 15:23

From: Kingfisher, [email protected] An overwhelming thankyou. HI ... OK my words, but first. There is noway in thisworld I could be here without you, I have been .

lot of thinking

.

first

the relief was wonder-

Received: 14/11/98 17:50

doing a

me

letting out

the smell was not!

Sent:

I

would often

was one way of

freezing fingers to clip on each I

feet, forcing

and of finding the strength to do

hot and sore, and

opportunity to

went forward to change the boat had been designed

each time

would pull it Waves would continuously power down the

that frustration

After each

ful,

even more so when the freezing

life.

on and tighten 1

hands were red-raw and

forward, clipping myself on, and

side-decks, often washing the

cry out loud as

My

was hard, brutal work. Each time

for Pete Goss. Shifting the sails

to hang

—

became more and more obvious

hanging on for dear

Exx

began to worsen again. Doing anything

but also painful.

difficult

my

(glad 2 be off tho!)

e!

.

over the past days, and can offer

little

more

at

.

!

Ellen MacArthur

180

time other than offer

this

my

eternal thanks, and

win the bloody

race! .

e

XX

4 hrs

at

1

2-19 knots! Great to have

KINGFISHER going like

a train.

WE 're hanging in there in the 60 fleet, and proving our ow^n as being 2 of the smallest in the fleet! Herself and Its

been

fantastic [to be] able sail

me!

her rather than simply survive!

The storms of the first week were horrendous, and now, after I had chance to walk on her decks rather than crawl and place someing on a surface without it ending up in the bilge Today removed all

a

,

I

!

the food

I

could fnd from in the spares boxes, under the anchor and

behind the bunks. Each of the food boxes crossed the cabin

at least

6

times each during the storm, dispensing hteir cotents eerywhere they could

Got exx

to go.

love

XXX After a frustrating, windless time around the Azores, worse was to

come.

The

survival suit

went back on.

It

was the fourth depression

—

ten

days into the race. We had winds reaching 65 knots over the deck, and as the front passed, a constant 50 to 55 was not

welcomed with open arms.

Tacking the boat was interesting in such strong winds, the swing-keel timing playing a

vital role in

her somewhat wave-driven dance. The wind

NW

was to switch to with the front, and sleighride to Guadeloupe (or so we thought)

this

After this fourth depression, disaster struck. time, as

I'd

staysail.

A

spent

five

I

was the debut of our was having

a rather

bad

hours of a 35-knot night resewing the leech on the

piston hank had

come undone,

allowing the leech to

flog.

I

was exhausted by the time the crashing waves slowly became visible in the approaching daylight, and my fingers were bleeding with punctures. Elated that I had finished the job, I went below to grab a snack it was almost time to put up the staysail again. As I foraged in one of the food boxes I noticed some water on the floor, and although there w^as usually a small amount from drips, this seemed like a bit more. I checked for-

—

World

Taking On the

181

ward and was shocked to see water there. It was ankle-deep, so clearly the forehatch must have come undone over the last few hours. I decided a complete bail-out was in order before a sail change, so started the process of drying out each compartment in turn. 1 sealed the forehatch, and while trying to balance with the horrendous motion I took a good few bucketfuls out of the forepeak. thought should check the aft compartment too, in case water had leaked in through the rudderstock seal. This had already happened a few I

1

I

times, so before finishing off in the forepeak,

decided to

I

bail

out the

back. There were a few bucketfuls in there, but the horrific motion

made

it

a frustrating job.

straight into the waves,

water.

I

was

I

made

new wind

it

at the

it

deck-head and then back

my

in

sailing

at

myself

face before

a And if it wasn't the contents of the bucket, down through the hatch as opened it to empty a bucket.

hatch.

in the

as the bucket's

could get

I

down onto

keep the water

virtually impossible to

ended up

we were

direction,

hard for the boat to stick to the

around and cursing

sliding

tents repeatedly

the

which makes

was being flung up

her hull, which bucket.

With

it

was

it

con-

out of the

wave coming

I

Suddenly

I

something was very wrong.

felt

more and more, and heard I

a useless

controlled the swinging keel.

now

began leaning

whine coming from the motor

that

scrambled out of the hatch and across her

precariously steep deck to the cockpit, hanging onto anything

could

as

I

went.

bore her away from the wind to bring her

I

possible, reset the autopilot, in

I

Kingfisher

and went below to begin

my

as

I

upright as

crash course

advanced hydraulics.

My rine

first slightly

equipment show

He

in

call

was to Mark. He answered from

Amsterdam:

"I

know

hadn't said much, but his confidence in

After

was

panicked

still

I'd

you'll

me

it

ma-

out."

was reassuring.

closed the "last-resort, lock-me-in-place" valves, the keel

swinging

least forty bolts,

I

as freely as ever. After a tedious session of trying at at last

removed the appropriate

—

lifeless.

I

called

Merv,

who was

section of the keel

box

the box was swilling with

The problem was immediately obvious litres of oil. The hydraulic pipe had burst, and

lid.

drained and

work

a

the system itself was

with Jim Doxey in South

on the stopover from the Around Alone. Jim had designed the system, and he discussed with Merv what to do. Although we had been through the system before leaving, this was clearly a more critical problem, and it was difficult to understand exactly what went where, espeAfrica

182

Ellen MacArthur

dally as

was already so

I

tired.

At the end of the

the options? There was only the one, so

Spoonful by spoonful, spare

oil

I

I

began to

had on board. Lying on

rolling boat,

just got

I

it.

on a and had grease from the

back wearing

was covered with hydraulic

I

on with

what were

the 10-litre reservoir with the

refill

my

day, though,

oil

a survival suit

my hands. There was still some water in the cabin, and the contents of my food boxes were swimming around in it. It all seemed so valves

over

all

bizarre

could only see the funny side. What a state

I

Five hours later

I

had the keel jammed

tion to race once more.

we

lack of stability,

And

we were

in the centre

in!

and was

in a posi-

despite the now-inefficient keel and relative

enjoyed the fastest average in the

fleet

over the next

four position reports.

After this disaster,

alarmed to find

I

did the usual

a crack in the

full

check through the boat and was

forward bulkhead, stemming from a drain-

went on deck and slowed her down, sitting next to the if it moved. could see nothing, but the slow movement through the water was causing the boat to slam more. I marked the ends of the crack so that I could keep an eye on it, then I gradually increased sail until she felt comfortable. had been in the forepeak before the storm to check that all was well, so the crack couldn't have been there long before found it. Before the keel had gone, I was just a few miles behind one of the hole at

its

base.

I

damage for an hour or so to see

I

I

I

newest Open 60s

in the race.

But

it's

easy to lose miles and a

damn

sight

harder to gain them back. The tiredness and the heat were a problem,

was the disappearance of the wind between depressions. One day we would be in a full-blo^vn storm, the next we'd

but most

difficult

of

all

have a boat speed of barely 3 knots and mere whispers of unreliable

wind.

I

found

frustrating

it

pragmatic approach to

beyond

this

belief and

knew had I

kind of weather.

It

vantage.

was up to

why and how the wind dies, then work to Races can be won and lost in light airs.

understand

Yesterday was awful. Really light breeze. 23

sail

to learn a

me

to better

use that to

changes

more

my ad-

—from

Hard work in the wdndless scorching sun, time when becomes obvious I am 50 not 60feet. FOr 4 hrs there was literally nothing as the trough passed over us. I wonder if the rest of the fleet

kites to jibs

.

.

.

it

have had personal clouds too? Helplessly sitting, as the position reports

A time to reflect on things far,

far

away

.

.

.

showed othersmoving.

Taking On THE World

183

My hands were still raw, painful, and riddled with salt sores and scabs; in the

still

heat, sweat stung as

the easiest task, such

found

it

on

as sitting

my

its

way

into every abrasion.

backside,

Even

became an uncomfort-

able chore!

Thank goodness we had

good breeze for the last few days on our run into Guadeloupe. Just a few miles out I was told I had a call from Robert Nickerson, my old friend from Hull. I wondered why on earth he was calling me on board. I phoned the number I was given, and he answered.

"Where

a

are you?" he said in a familiar, friendly way.

"In a race called the

Route du Rhum."

—

know that, I've heard what's your position?" On his Round the World sail with Panic Major, Robert was coming to meet me! He joined mc early on during the final painful day as we "1

drifted

around without wind

Most get caught and we were no exception. We of the island.

in the lee

here with the finish just out of reach,

eventually crossed the line that evening after dark.

There were horns and out to greet

us.

and

sirens,

After the becalmed

sizes

came

the noise and colour

were

a flotilla of boats

final day,

Thompson, quite at

Kingfisher's dcsi2;ner,

home

racing

All the same, the

among

end

all

—

—

we won our class the 50-footers but Open 60s that started had beaten us. Adrian

overwhelming. Not only had only four of the twelve

of

this

and Pete Goss had built

a

50 which was

the 60s.

time

felt

very different from the end of the

was ready to leave her. Although I patted her goodbye and said thank you, I was acutely aware that I had been sailing Pete's boat. I had albeit a lucky one. She was a great felt a little like a guest on board boat. I climbed off her, still sticky with sweat from our final hours of Mini.

I

—

fight.

and

Except for the

my

face

from the

I

had not washed for more than twenty days,

was sore with sunburn. But

—

I

knew I was glowing

I

crept off with

not just

heat, but with relief.

As soon his

rain,

as things

rented car for

began to die down,

five

minutes while he made

delirious with fatigue, but

my

atmosphere around me. Mark press conference, and

I

a

phone

Mark and

call.

I

sat in

was almost

eyes were wide open, just soaking in the said that

rested

my

we were going

to a hotel for the

head against the car window

sped through the streets in the dark.

as

we

Chapter Fourteen

Mark and spent less than a week in Guadeloupe after the race, although we did manage to catch up with Robert and Marie and Pipo. The response to our performance in the Route du Rhum was extraordinary. I

The number of congratulatory e-mails and fax messages we received opened my eyes to just how many people had been following us out there.

To:

[email protected]

Subject: congratulations!

You

are the English girl in the race.

We don't know you but are happy to tell you '^bonjour" Sincerely Yours,

Famille Macabies

(We

live in the

Alps)

And

From:AMCO To: La Reine Ellen et

le

Roi Turner

Well done the Glaouchs [Breton slangJor really stuffed the French,

your future projects.

A+ Thierry 184

and the

the English]

rest of the world!

—you !

have

Good luck for

!

Taking On the There was

also a

company

vices

handwritten fax message sent from

World

185

a small office ser-

in Derbyshire:

congratulations

well done

with love from

home mac

all at

including

macarthur true grit all way and from head to toe.

the

marked a significant turning-point in so many ways. Both our futures had rested on how we performed, but now we were faced with starting again from scratch. To compete in the Vendee, we needed a boat, a team, and sponsorship, and Kingfisher PLC was not committed beyond the Rhum. We had proposed the Vendee project to them initially and were wondering if we had done enough to convince them to continue working with us. After the Route du Rhum, a photograph of Kingfisher finishing appeared on the front page of the Times. I don't think in our wildest dreams we had thought the race would get that kind of recogni-

The

We knew we had a powerful story, but that w^as never any guarantee.

tion.

We

race

felt this

was an incredibly positive

communicating what we were doing

sign.

It

showed us

that

we were

way, and that sailing

in the right

could reach the front pages for the right reasons. Sadly, since the arrivals of Sir Francis Chichester, Sir Chay Blyth, and Sir Robin

single-handed sailing in the

UK

had more often than not been covered

went wrong. We were in no doubt over the moon, too. As a stepping-stone for the

when

things

us well. cial:

was

I

the relationship

licity I

Mark and

well, the formula

had been an outstanding success, both

could sense that one of the biggest that they felt responsible for

someone

in

handed

sailor w^ho said

helped.

I

I

me

in

some of them

knew

would be

Rhum

served

we had something

worked

spe-

well, and the pub-

France and in the

UK.

difficulties facing Kingfisher

PLC

and were concerned about sending I

under-

that an article quoting a top single-

shouldn't be going for the Vendee Globe hadn't

had talked to other

that

future, the

her early twenties out to race around the planet.

stood their point of view and

knew

that Kingfisher

believed that with Kingfisher

worked

Knox -Johnston,

felt

sailors I

who had taken

should be racing in

part in the race, and a

50 rather than

I

a 60.

Ellen MacArthur

186

had

two

on 60-foot boats and knew that the I also knew deep down that, what-

But

I

size

simply wouldn't be a problem.

sailed

transatlantics

would be in the next Vendee, with or without Kingfisher. The race was just waiting to burst out of me. But if things were we going to happen, they would have to move ahead very quickly would have to be building the boat by summer. It was time for me to vsn-ite an honest letter that would let Kingfisher know in no xincertain terms that there was no way I would do it if I wasn't ready, and that there was no pressure on me to compete in the Vendee other than the pressure I put on myself. ever happened,

I

—

Dear Geoff & Michael, I have spent my life dreaming of the ocean, have done nothing but

sail. It is

my future. The Route du Rhum was

undoubtedly

most

It is

passion,

my

life,

I

and

is

conditions and the boat the

my

1994

since

made

a

demanding

it

very testing, but

incredible proving ground.

firmly cast in

my own mind

.

.

that

race, both the it

became

.

I

can do

sailed the boat very little before the start,

this.

1

had

was learning the

whole time, despite getting thrown around somewhat, I never felt out of my depth. I am a tough cookie, not someone

who

gives up. That

is

why

I

am

ocean racing alone

at

22.

There are in the past,

proach.

I

real dangers,

but

1

believe

will be getting

but also for

we I

all

know what

has happened

have a very level-headed ap-

around not only for Kingfisher,

my family and friends.

From a non-sailing point of view, Mark and Gwenola [Gallois] on the has also been a success.

I

the

work with both

public relations side

have proved to myself that

I

can

communicate, even when things are tough, and the world outside has been able to actively follow our progress. This has led to an explosion in both

amazed us all, and not amaze us all again. has

I

UK and European press.

can see no reason

why

this

It

should

Taking On the

World

187

Being part of such a fantastic team, working with such

been

enthusiastic people has I

may

team do

a real pleasure.

.

.

alone out there, but without a committed

sail

could never happen.

it

.

I

can do

this

—

^just as

we

can

this.

inside

It is

be on that

me to compete

in the Vendee

Globe. ...

1

will

finish line.

What more Thank you

to

can

say,

I

all at

than,

Kingfisher for the support so

far.

Ellen

I

had never written

a letter trying to sell

knew had

myself

as confidently as this

show that could do it and was determined. We would have to wait to see what the response would be. Our stay in Paris following the race was notable for a couple of reasons. was astounded and touched to be told had been awarded the Jeune Espoir de la Voile, or Sailing's Young Hope. With a little help from Gwenola on the translation front, gave my first speech in French, addressing hundreds of people during an enormous dinner. Every other name on that trophv was French. It was a further measure of the impact before, but

1

I

to

I

I

I

I

we'd made with our campaign for the Rhum.

More

significant,

ing that they

however, was

would sponsor us

crossing a busy Paris street as

time we'd reached the other ever by the news. The

new

a

phone

for another

we took

side,

from Kingfisher confirm-

two

years.

Mark and

I

both our

lives

had been changed

sponsorship meant that both of us were

that

were

the call on the mobile. By the

by any measure professionals. And with

We'd alwavs maintained

call

we had more

this status

came

for-

now

obligations.

to offer any sponsor than sim-

on the boat. We wanted it to our commitments to Kingfisher

ply the opportunity to display their logos

be

a partnership,

were to form

and

this

meant

that

a vital part of the preparation for the Vendee.

At Christmas,

I

returned to Derbyshire while Mark,

as

was

his habit,

a one -month work contract and to compete in Sydney— Hobart Race. Although I had bought a Christmas card for him, I was too late to send it, so I included its message in a festive

headed to Australia on the

e-mail:

Ellen MacArthur

188

Mark, Just

wanted to say the biggest thank you I can electronically! It's been bloody hard this one, and we're both tired. You can't believe in half the things you hear, You can't believe in most of what you read,

But you can believe

WeWILL get there.

in all of .

.

what you do.

Message from Xmas Card

was going to give you

"I

.

.

.

.

bought for you! ..."

1

.

.

.

MONEY for Xmas

(TURN PAGE) "But the Police dragged

me

out of the fountain before

I

could gather

together a respectable amount!"

NOT FOR MUCH LONGER!?

.

.

.

Love and best, best wishes, sail safe,

keep well,

E

Xx Mark's race turned out to be a tragic reminder of the sheer power of

Ocean

the Southern

many

at its raw^est.

A

freak storm intensified, smashing

of the boats and causing a terrible loss of life.

Mark was one

of the

lucky ones.

Christmas was cut short for

ing after

I

when

I

to the marina in

remove our belongings, and Pete.

the day after Boxing Day,

Plymouth where Aqua Quorum was now lyher delivery home. I spent a day on board trying to clean her,

down

drove

me

did

all

I

leave her ready for handing her back over to

could there and collected our belongings with her engine

rimning to heat the cabin

a bit. It

was

a sad final

goodbye to the boat

as

I

struggled along the pontoon in the drizzle with the last boxes of gear.

Pete was upset about the crack as

well as external

sailed

—

I'd

discovered in the forward bulkhead,

damage from having

hurt by his suggestion that

myself that

I'd

been

I'd

hit

something

pushed her too hard.

as protective

of her as

I

I

at night,

but

I

was

could only reassure

have of any of the boats I've

thinking of the boat before myself even.

I

understood Pete's

in-

damage caused by the extreme conditions. I, too, would have felt wounded by it. It was a shame, though, because we should have been celebrating together, and I hoped that day would still stinctive reaction to the

come.

Taking On the

On

the

1999, fully

we announced on

centre stage that Kingfisher was sponsoring a

funded Vendee Globe campaign. As

of the journalists,

Our

my knees

I

stood there and spoke in front

shook. This was really

relationship with Kingfisher

it,

this

was the

start of

was building day by day

the planning, preparation, and organization for the project, and it

both stimulating and rewarding to be involved

also

made

189

day of the London International Boat Show in January

first

our dream.

World

which took Mark and

me

Germany

to

found

I

in the meetings.

presentations to various divisions of the company, the

in

We

first

of

to talk to an audience of senior

management. My right knee shook again, and my mouth became so dry from nervousness that could hardly finish. Their support and belief in us were overwhelming, and the implications of our relationship took a what we could do, how while to sink in. It simply changed everything we could do it, and what we could aspire to. It was important to us that I

—

—

we were able to convey how offering an opportunity can change people's lives. And that we'd never take it for granted. Mark and soon had to make the biggest decision of the year so far: selection of a designer for the new Kingfisher 60. It's more than just a question of finding; who can design you the fastest boat. The Vendee is they

knew

this

that

I

notorious for

its

duration and remoteness, and any boat taking

to be strong, safe, and reliable Initially,

we

we reviewed

a

a

bring

it

down

on has

the designer's hands.

to a host of designers, then

the replies. All the responses were credible, and

Marc Lombard, was

life is in

sent out a tender

difficult decision to

Owen

—your document

it

to our final two.

One

it

was

a

of these was

French designer, and the other a team comprising the

Clarke Design Group,

Rob Humphreys and Giovanni

tough decision, but the team approach, with

knowledge, appealed enormously. Our

its

Belgrano.

It

wide base of

only concern was that the

Owen

who had set up the company years before with his partner, Allen Clarke. But we knew that there were few others available with such extensive knowledge of modern Open 60s, and in our final decision, we felt that our personal relationship would of Owen- Clarke was in fact Merv,

help

make her

a better boat.

Merv was committed

to his

work and had

would be prepared to project-manage the building of the new boat. This was a big plus. We strived to do something a bit different, and though it was not our intention to take too many risks on the already suggested he

Ellen MacArthur

190

development

we

front,

did not want a clone of the other boats. With the

team became the

addition of former Vendee winner Alain Gautier, the Kingfisher Design Team.

The design decision-making process had been

my

Merv outside the office, and when we moved into a rented flat together.

cussed easier

views with

that even at this

And

stressful. this I

I

had not

dis-

made any

wasn't

think, in retrospect,

stage the project had begun slowly to grind us down.

although our relationship perhaps contributed to the care and in-

credible attention to detail that

would be so evident

in Kingfisher, at the

same time she put us both under the first layers of pressure. We also went with the decision to build Kingfisher in New Zealand. I had made a brief trip out there to see Merv at the end of Januarv. He

Mike Golding's Group 4 campaign before he'd run aground off New Zealand's North Island, which ended his race. I fell in love instantly with the country and its people. Another attraction was was there

New that

as part of

Zealand's incredible sailing industry. Thinking aloud,

it

would be

a great place to build an

would be great experience Initially,

PLC's

interests, but

idea. If

we

for

me

on further

New

we

realized

it

I

reflection

it

began to look

could build within the schedule,

journey back from

60, and

said

me if sailed the boat back to Europe. New Zealand too far away from Kingfisher

for

we'd considered

Open

Merv

Zealand

it

made

as a sea trial for the

like the right

sense to use the

boat and a chance

to gain experience not just with her but with the Southern

Ocean. There was also the added bonus that the America's Cup. This the country also

would be

fantastic to

would be buzzing with

New

Zealand was hosting

be around and watch, and

journalists

from

all

over the

world.

By April there were a couple of new faces on the project team. Mary Ambler joined us to take on some of the media work, which, with the launch of the Vendee campaign, had grown enormously. Dana Bena

came

to take care of some of the logistics while Ian

signer,

McKay,

began to work w^onders with logos and press packs. Back

ary we'd announced that

we were

I

in Janu-

would be competing in the Vendee, and

now

launching the whole project in detail, announcing our design

team, building location, and training programme, and nalists

a graphic de-

over to the

UK

fi-om France.

as professional as possible.

We

we brought jour-

wanted the whole launch to be

Taking On the World

191

We

were asked many questions about our hopes for the project and about what was possible in the race, and here our emphasis had changed over recent months. We'd set out just a year before saying we aimed to

we knew we had

win, and of course that had to remain our target, but

prove the boat before

we

to

could make any real predictions, The competi-

would be the best in the world, and, as had been seen in anything could happen at any stage. Leaving in November al-

tion out there

past races,

ways poses in. In

a threat to the fleet,

with the winter gales beginning to

order for the campaign to be seen

Kingfisher,

From

we

couldn't allow

it

to hinge

my own

programme.

intensive training

designed with one clear objective

—

my knowledge

knew

and experience.

I

to plug as as

I

many

It

was

holes as possible in

stood on that stage in April

was not ready to take on the Vendee Globe, but twelve months later really could be. that

both us and

on winning alone.

one of the most important parts of the

a personal point of view,

launch was announcing

as a success for

roll

I

I

also

knew

that

I

The programme contained

a

number of different elements,

including

single-handed and crewed offshore racing, dinghy racing, meteorological instruction, first aid,

and straightforward

fitness training. All

of this

would be supported by Kingfisher's sponsorship, which meant we could include what was necessary rather than simply what was possible. We were able to approach things professionally, albeit in a somewhat compressed manner. Training began back in France aboard boats called Figaros. These small racing boats, just over 32 feet in length, are used for highly competitive

single-handed racing in France. sive,

and

would be

its

many

my

first real

A

Figaro campaign

immersion

in

reminder of just how much I

—

world,

I

felt

was an

first

It

race

we were

baptism of fire and a shocking

had to learn.

sailing skills;

my

Figaro training school,

a real

how

sailing. In

In the

different

my

They focused each day on and though

few days life

I

spent

at

was compared

their physical ability,

my

training

was more

was impressed by the thoroughness of their quite uncomfortable there, even nervous. In their

spread out geographically, I

still

realized just

sailors.

weather strategy, and approach.

I

French pro

at the

taken apart by the rest of the fleet

with these other

not overly expen-

stop-overs give a great return to the sponsors.

with Gael le'Cleach, a teacher

the training camp,

is

outsider.

I

And

their culture

was completely

at

odds with

Ellen MacArthur

192

the crazy

While I

I

life

was

I

was

from event to meeting. had the chance to think and take stock of where

leading, literally running

in France,

I

was. Sitting around the dinner table each evening talking about the

courses or race tactics,

but

I

own

that

sailing to

into a

life like

named

he also wanted to compete.

He had

theirs,

but given up

all

project-manage the Vendee campaign, and

been tough seeing

we

knew that I could not drop

could also see the real benefits of focus and studying in one place.

Mark decided his

I

me

out there on the water.

Offshore Challenges

—

the racing took

He

it

must have

chartered a boat he

no account of office hours, so

struggled to keep up to speed with the "Project," as our pursuit of the

Vendee had become known. He had raced Figaros before, but he too to find a winning formula, although

Perhaps the most obviously

vital

1

failed

have to say he finished ahead of us! part of the training

programme was

the offshore racing. This was to culminate at the end of

1

999 with the

Transat Jacques Vabre from Le Havre, France, to Cartagena, Colombia.

There was no way the new

needed to

this,

so

lier,

who had

I

Kingfisher

find another boat.

would be even remotely ready

We

for

decided to approach Yves Par-

raced the spacecraft-like boat, Aquitaine Innovations, that

had made such an impression on

me

at the start

of the

last

Vendee

Globe. Rig and rudder problems had forced him out of the race, and then soon afterwards he had a serious accident while flying a paraglider

and badly damaged with one

though

a

final

his legs.

Though

still

struggling

on crutches, and

operation to go, he was well on the road to recovery

question

mark

still

hung over

his foot, in

—

which he had

al-

lost

feeling.

Mark and

went to Bordeaux to visit Yves with some trepidation. I was aware he was a rather headstrong character but knew little about him beyond that. Our saving grace was that Yves had followed the Route du Rhum closely and was aware of my result there. In the end, though, I think the strongest bond between us came fi-om the discovery, much later, that we had both grown up far from the sea and had spent our early years dreaming about it. Yves was tall and thin, with short-cropped grey hair it seemed to have been that colour since he was in his twenties. He comes across as one of life's great thinkers, his background in engiI

—

neering leading to an almost scientific but always creative approach to problem-solving. Yves had an incredible track record: he'd competed in

two Vendee Globes, had won the Mini Transat

in 1985,

and

won

the

World

Taking On the Transat Jacques Vabre in

would

Kingfisher

we

1

997 with French

was based, and rope Race in June.

Aquitaine

fit

them

I

would

my

but one of

for the start of the

dropped off in cled by

in the

life

I

was now

a bay off Majorca,

a classic

leading. Sailing to Italy

in Nice.

I

badly by

agreed to make

a presentation I'd

ended up being

where our enormous Open 60 was

cir-

Spanish holidavmakers in pedalos. Eventually

ashore in a tiny Spanish rowing boat, with a

lift

Round Eu-

Round Europe Race, we were delayed

German and

hitched a

in

Arcachon, where

on board her

one of Kingfisher's operating companies

to

competing

just

with them turned into

first trips

was concerned about missing

I

from

train together in

also sail

demonstration of the pace of the

storms.

autumn, and

with the guys aboard Aquitaine and soon thought of

in quickly

as family,

in great detail. Far

we would

the Transat Jacques Vabre,

1

legend EricTabarly,

part- sponsor his boat for the race that

programme

discussed the

sailing

193

derstood enough English to

know

that

I

had

man who

a plane to catch!

I

un-

flew to

I

Barcelona, hired a car for a twelve-hour mind-blowing taste of the Pyrenees, then flew

on to Nice.

Geoff Mulcahv, Kingfisher's CEO, attended the presentation and asked

what

my

plans were.

When

I

thing in the morning, he asked

was incredibly for Kingfisher,

useful, as

and

ple of hours later,

I

I

was boarding

We

it

looked

landed

at

as if

me

we were

UK

was returning to the

first

to get back that night. This

tank- and wind-tunnel-testing models

was concerned, the

excited that the pilot asked

where

I

would help

if it

we were

as far as

him

told

earlier the better.

a private jet for the first time. if

I

wanted to

sit

me

all

a

the

from

way home.

my

to

lift

cou-

was so

in the cockpit,

chasing the setting sun

Luton, and Geoff's chauffeur gave

I

A

aunt's

empty house in nearby Hertford. At about a.m., I assured everyone would be fine and walked off into the darkness. Only after they drove off I

1

did

1

realize that, while

glar alarm.

1

tried

Admitting defeat, smile on

my face.

1

had

a kev,

1

didn't have the code for the

phoning everyone

who might know

but got no reply.

made a nest in the garden and went to From executive jet to sleeping in a garden I

new bur-

sleep with a

—

great!

WAS SOON BACK with Aquitaine in Italy for the Round Europe Race. A surf-filled first leg in which we were in our element led to an eventual race- winning lead, but our celebrations were muted by the news that a I

Ellen MacArthur

194

crewman aboard board and us so well

the trimaran Biscuits la Trinitaine had been

killed during the strong

—

devastating for the

downwind

crew and

washed over-

conditions that had served

his family.

Along with the Figaros and sailing wdthYves, there was one further aspect to my training on the water: racing Laser dinghies with Paul Brotherton. Paul had represented Great Britain in the Barcelona Olympics and was an incredible natural chester, he

had discovered

immediately. Each time was.

I

skills

I

was on

I

Originally from inner-city

sailor.

almost by accident, and

sailing

with him,

sailed

tive offshore in 1

hit

it

off

how talented he we were sure that the make me more competi-

realized

I

a near-vertical learning curve, but

picked up on racing dinghies could only

Paul and

we

Man-

an

Open

60.

had hoped to

start a race together before

competing

in the

Laser Eurocup Regatta in Milan, but as usual, lack of time stopped us

and we were able to complete and

a day in Italy.

ever; tired as

and

just a

few training sessions on the solent

The atmosphere on Lake Como was

we were when we drove

warm weather kept

us going.

into Gravidona, relaxed people

seemed odd

It

environment and know so few competitors

someone

couldn't walk three paces without I

was completely unsure of how

been

a long

time since

I'd

competed

for

—

in

me

to go into a race

especially while

Paul

spotting him.

was going to

I

how-

fantastic,

find the racing.

such close quarters, and

It

this

had

time

more than seventy boats in our class! Paul was great to sail with. There were stressful moments, and it must have been particularly frustrating for someone as experienced and skilled as Paul to crew while there were

I,

a novice in this kind of sailing,

took the helm. We were therefore

fairly

amazed at sailing into third place on the first race. And while our results were an absolute team effort, 1 fear that the importance of our contributions

were weighted

end of the

in favour of Paul!

regatta, as he frequently

He must

have been hoarse by the

had to employ

his

very verbal ap-

proach to collision avoidance: " 'kin hell, Ellen!"

Throughout the

intense sailing

programme

ashore. Training for an event like the athletics.

We

Vendee

is

I

also

had

nothing

much

to learn

like training for

have to learn everything about the function of the weather

and the boat. That ranges from being able to repair the

sails

to perhaps

— Taking On the

World

195

changing hard disc drives and replacing circuit boards or relaminating

broken

fittings.

We

can have no outside assistance w^hatsoever w^ith our

weather routing, so w^e have to make

all

those decisions on board our-

selves. It is outside the rules of the Vendee for sailors even to pick up the phone and ask what someone thinks of their ideas which in turn puts an enormous strain on the skipper, who has not only the welfare and speed

—

of the boat to think about, but also critical to its success.

I

completed

its

position

a course

on the ocean, which

is

on engine repair and mainte-

Oxford and was fascinated by the knowledge I was gaining on everything from changing oil to stripping down diesel-injection pumps. By the end, I was stripping down the engine and putting it back together with some aplomb. And in La Rochelle, I had two days of intense training with Jean-Yves Bernot, a French weather expert, covering a whole range of subjects from weather-fax interpretation to the use of weather-routing software. Previously, particularly on the MiniTransat, I'd felt that I lacked confidence in this aspect of my racing, so I was keen to address it. Jeannance

in

Yves also worked with

from

As

me on

weather training

as

I

sailed

back to Europe

New Zealand during Kingfisher's sea trials. crucial to success as understanding the boat

after yourself. Fatigue

is

and weather

looking

is

always a potentially huge problem in long-dis-

tance single-handed racing, and

I

started

working on

a sleep training

project with a chronobiology expert, Dr. Claudio Stampi.This involved

wearing

a wrist

woke and

slept.

sleep patterns

monitor which looked I

never took

it off,

would help plan

like a

watch and recorded when

and the data we collected about

a

my

a sleep strategy for the Vendee.

Immediately after finishing the Laser regatta on Lake Como, took

I

I

under-

three-day commercial first-aid course at Warsash Nautical Col-

mixed bunch of people from all sorts of vessels. I was unique among them in that would be sailing alone: thus, not everything was useful mouth-to-mouth resuscitation, for example! In the past, there had been serious medical emergencies in the Vendee from Alan Wynne-Thomas limping into New Zealand with his smashed ribcage to Bertrand de Broc, who, deep in the Southern Ocean, had to sew his tongue back on. Being independent is not just a desirable attribute for the Vendee Globe; it's essential. It was a taxing schedule, but somehow sheer eagerness to be out there and take things on fuelled my enthusiasm and kept my wheels turning. lege in

Hampshire with

a

1

—

Ellen MacArthur

196

People would often ask

me

what

were usually

typical sample, they

was up

I

to,

and when

fairly aghast.

Though

1

I

gave them a

wore

a brave

and would not have chosen to change what was going on, I knew deep down that I was running not far from empty. The sporadic training

face

moments on

sessions and snatched

looking

at the hills

the water, or even a brief

moment

out of a train window, were just enough to keep

—

me

were moments of desperation in there, though one in particular was filmed by the French crew when I was training in a Laser with Paul. I was knackered and finding it virtually impossible to concenit was almost as if I wasn't trate, particularly in the strong winds

going. There

—

there.

Part of the problem was that

I

was beginning to

feel a lack of control.

would have liked to be with the general running and design phase of the project. I was used to being the one who was around and about putting in hands-on time, but now I was away from both our office and the design office nearly all the time, often putting in my input only by phone, making a motivaI

was concerned

that

1

tional call

when

I

more

like a

pawn

feel

there were

A

many

had not been

as

sensed things were in a far bigger

aspects of my

couple of years before, as

I

life

I

lower ebb. it

sailing the oceans,

things

small, though,

I

were

and

I

began to

I

seemed as though had little or no control.

system, and

had been

—but now

were

at a slightly

over which

every decision for myself scale of things, they

in-touch as

different.

knew

full

I

had made

On the grand

well that

I

could

not have done any more or been in more places. At the end of the day,

had I

a great

team, and they were doing

a great job.

pushed myself to try to be involved with

still

just

about every stage

of the design process of Kingfisher and was rewarded with the most credible feeling, almost day by day, of a

her from the

was almost

moment

like

she was the

I

first

in-

dream come true. I felt part of line on the computer screen; it

watching her grow. We made a computer-generated

vir-

which we could slot into various areas of the boat, although unfortunately we had to modify some areas; when we tried to drop in a person of more normal dimensions, there were a few problems with

tual "Ellen"

space!

On

1

see the

the

8

September

first

first

1

999

I

flew to

New Zealand for a couple

stage of Kingfisher^ s construction.

time and looking up

at the

of days to

Walking into that shed for

curve of her gigantic hull,

I

was

in

Taking On the awe of her beauty. The feehng of enormity was Hke time the sheer ing,

whale

size of a

wild

in the

—

almost

World

197

realizing for the first

But

this

be-

we heard

the

spiritual.

knew, was going to become a close friend.

I

We phone

also

had

ring,

a scare.

and

On

our

owner of

had been called out due to a fire

New

Zealand,

very soon afterwards.

a car left the drive

ing with Steve Marten, the

had caught

night in

final

We

were

stay-

the yard, and discovered that he

fire there.

An oven

not

far

from

Kingfisher

while cooking some of her bulkheads and had set off the

The guy on duty at the yard had run off to check the alarm system, not knowing that it had been triggered by the oven that was on fire. The temperature sensors measured heat of up to 1 30° C, and the wall between two ovens had collapsed by the time the fire was extinguished. Miraculously, Kingfisher's mould was completely unscathed. How a tinder-dry wooden mould could have survived so close to such an intense fire we shall never know, but in a way it proved to us from the start that she was a born survivor. burglar alarm.

WAS BACK

France by the end of September to prepare for theTransat Jacques Vabre, which started on 5 October. Life continued to be hectic, but although they were no less time-consuming, I was now a little more used to the endless interviews and photo calls that accompanied the I

IN

1

build-up to a major race.

The

we

went for a meal organized primarily for Yves Parlier's sponsors, Aquitaine. There were a number of guests from the Kingfisher side of the project, too. Although it was good to night before the start

all

catch up with sponsors and the team, for

our

it.

left early

and slept

was not, perhaps, the best night

in the car before

heading back to the hotel for

final night's sleep.

We at the felt

I

it

left

Le Havre on

helm we were

wonderful

Yves and

in

a hot,

be

line,

off.

was survival

was very much we both knew that on

any differences

—and

we had

down

There had been some

the track.

friction

the kind of person

shore, as he

to run things his way, but

objective

afternoon; after at least fifteen hours

second place and already well

finally to

me on

still

It

between who had

the water, our primary

of course the race. As

we

ashore melted away, and

crossed that start

we bonded

well,

but while our start was clement, there was a massive depression heading across the Atlantic: Hurricane Irene

.

.

.

Ellen MacArthur

198

3a.m. Freezing, soaking, and impossible to stand.

Its

been

a bit full

few hours. We're under deep reefed main, storm jib. Just got THrowm up and doen slaughtered whildt chaanging to storm jib mght have a wide times. She many on deck, washed sideways so

on

last

open

—

flat

deck [forward], but

warmer than before

thype,

as

trying [to] shut, and stinging off seat here

.

.

.

slamming

it's

is

very ecposed! Rightnoe trying to

put survival suit on, very tired, eyes

still

from

DeCk

salt.

bad. and40kn

.

.

.

.

.

.

virtually lifted

the slower, the

worse,

xex

During the storm we broke all the rigging on the starboard side which essentially means every single cable holding up our mast on one side of the boat was slowly breaking. Hour by hour the mast was leaning

more and more, and at any time the whole lot could have fallen over the side. The fibres with which the mast was supported were quite a new dePBO. Though we knew that these fibres velopment, strong and light

—

degraded with sunlight, no one was

really sure

how

long they would

last.

We had winds over 60 knots at one stage, and because of the rig probwe had

lems,

more than as easy as

just a tiny piece of sail

forty-eight hours before

it

sounds;

it

involved

my

up and had

we

to wait, agonizing, for

could repair the

rig.

This was not

climbing the mast several times and

completely replacing each cable, one by one. Aquitaine was the the

Open

60s to have the deck spreaders that

made her look

first

of

so unusual,

the objective being that they allow a large section of wing mast to rotate

—

they were never designed with climbing comfort in mind.

It

complicated further by having to make the replacements on deck

and use any rope we could find on board.

We

was first

spent days scrambling

about on the decks, trying to remove covers from ropes and splice

them

—

horrific

all

made

difficult

and dangerous by the aggressive waves and

motion, and not helped by the

French language. Although by French,

I

this

fact that

time

I

we

sailed entirely in the

could hold a conversation in

lacked certain key words in the language.

working out the

It

meaning of "anneau" when hanging 50

was pretty hard up a mast. It

feet

was incredibly motivated, though, and the our diagnosis, I was out there working as soon as the first

turned out to be "loop"!

I

morning after glimmer of light appeared

in the sky.

— Taking On the World Pretty exhausted

be

alive after

ever

.

.

.

.

.

.

Started at

hours up the

.Waves

rig,

4am and ,

dark, just after a rain squall. ... luckv.

It's

how

came down

in

30 knots after

A lot of bruises,

very sore. But

it

enormous

feels to

trying to grip

on

too big to get

my arms around properly),

to an

though

—

hang on up there. Like

shiny pole (which for

kicking you, and trying to shake you sitting there vertically

up. Feeling lucky to

still

one of the hardest physical challenges

after a big storm,

hard to describe

199

off.

me

is

just

with someone continually

At

mast

least the

is still

the other option does not baer

thinking about.

Although we had massive problems our losing our mast, others were

storm, nearly resulting in

in the

worse

far

off than w^e were.

We

re-

ceived a message that one of the multihulls. Group Andre, had capsized

and one of its two crew was missing. Later we found out that Paul Vatine

was on deck when thev went over As

sat

I

on deck

in that

— and

raging storm,

I

tragically

thought of what

and family no doubt were going through here, and

We been

a

sure as hell,

tough race, both

tactically

appointment and frustration least

—

all

although eighth was not

first,

it

was

fantastic to see

but once again

I

life

out

or no control.

knew

—

I'd

It

had

with

dis-

racing.

living

learnt a lot, not

we

we had made

still felt

it

to the end, and

we'd achieved something. As

Mark andYves's team jumped on

from the knowledge we'd been through, the biggest gift from

them

all

again. Aside

was confidence.

WAS A GREAT

now^

dangerous

and psychologically

the way, but

gained from the situation

that race

It

little

a

co-skipper

his

twenty days of hard

crossed the finish line in Cartagena,

board; I'd

was

it

again.

about the possibility of overcoming really serious problems. The

odds had been against us

we

—

one over which we have

finished in eighth position after

was never seen

summer

RELIEF to head back to there, the America's

New Zealand after the

Cup was

in full flow,

race.

It

was

and Auckland

was buzzing. By this stage we had a great team working on Kingfisher; Marie and Pipo Cairo and their tw^o kids had moved from Guadeloupe to live in New Zealand for five months. Pipo w^as responsible for the deck gear and above -deck equipment, and Marie, with her

sewing machine, was making

and

just

sail

new

industrial

covers, cockpit covers, seat covers

about anything else you could imagine! Others, such

as

French-

Ellen MacArthur

200

man Marc

Dutiloy and South African Mikey Joubert, each had their

area of expertise, be

Martin Carter, took over

Back

as

in the

it

daggerboards or

as well as

team leader

UK,

rig.

On

own

the organizational side,

being responsible for everything below decks, in

New Zealand, ably supported by Dana Bena.

designer Ian

McKay produced

designs for Kingfisher's

we

distinctive yellow bow, sweeping into her blue hull, which

all

thought was beautiful. She reflected the passion and dedication of every-

one involved, and there was no doubt

in

any of our minds that she was

Open 60 in the world. And although ultimately I one who would sail her, there would be a piece of every

going to be the best

would be the one of them on board with me.

Whenever

I

walked into the yard there would be another part

tached to her, or a

new

care of every person there, was as

coming to

wonderful. Every day our delivery In

New

Zealand

I

made

taking shape in the yard,

Zealand was

and

home was

can only describe

I

I

that's

it

getting closer.

a big effort to try to get

and even though one of the best things

New

work and

piece built. Kingfisher, because of the life,

at-

my

life

in order,

ever happened to

was simultaneously

struggling.

a stark contrast to the frantic

schedule

me was

My I

life

in

had be-

come used to in Europe, and although things were very busy, there was more time for contemplation. was concerned about my relaI

tionship with Merv.

We

were

living

away from the

rest of the team,

away from Auckland and the others. I from them, but I'd hoped that when I settled in over there with Merv, things would get better. But they didn't. I was becoming more and more frustrated with myself for feeling frustrated with Merv; the more I tried to drag myself out of it, the more distanced I felt from him. He was putting every ounce of himself into the project, which was wonderful, but he was putting too much in, and I could see that his reserves were getting dangerously low. When we grabbed a day to try to get away from the city, he would sleep in the car rather than run on the beach or play in the surf. On the few occasions we did get away, I didn't feel I was with the same man I'd known so long; I remember leaving him collapsed in the guest house while I sprinted don't think

down

helped to be apart

to the beach and flung myself into the surf to vent tried to talk to

tion.

I

ten

felt as if

I

it

I

him and

was talking to

my

frustra-

tried to be strong to help him, but ofa wall.

He had no

energy, no time for

World

Taking On the

when we would

anything; long gone were the days plans for the future.

We

seemed

crash out in the evenings while

through

my

talk of exciting

to be sharing less and less.

I

would

stay

up

He would

my computer

at

weather notes or checking e-mail.

201

going

—

would get up and go to the gym it was half an where we were staying, and I would aim to get there by six. It was a great way of getting rid of that pent-up energy. I'd often be joined by Allan from the yard, a great bloke whose easy manner and sense of humour helped me relax. Sometimes, instead of going to the gym, Allan and would thrash around in kayaks on the river. It was great to have a mate to mess around with, but it made me realize At 05 1

every day

5

I

hour's drive from the farm

I

how much missed doing I

I

this

with Merv.

desperately needed to get away and think, and

round, knowing a pair

wasn't going

I

home

when Christmas came

to Derbyshire,

bought

I

a tent

and

of hiking boots and headed off into the bush.

Merv dropped me off at the end of a long wooded Eve. The road we had hoped to take was closed, so finding

my

first

campsite

at

The following morning, beautiful day

managed

—

Christmas

to get a signal

2200 hours, I

it

making the

my

byshire, and

my

family

—

this

couldn't have been

I

The track was

was

much

incredibly steep.

the gradient and the weight of

up the Twin Peaks

off

mobile and made

As

my

I

my

track.

a I

a quick, successful at-

happy Christmas, before

a

off for the first time in months. call to

spent the evening

in the dark.

tempt to wish close friends and family switching

I

unzipped the tent door to be greeted by

— and headed

on

track on Christmas

I

had mixed feelings whilst

first

Christmas not in Der-

farther awav.

clambered up some of the slopes,

pack forced

me

to use

my

hands and

By afternoon I had climbed over the top of the hill and was to the water. I was thrilled by the sight and sound of red-crowned parakeet: I'd dreamed of green parrots in my adventures

feet together.

heading back a

as a child, I

filled

down

and

my

this

was the

closest I'd

come

to seeing

it

become

a reality.

water pot from a tiny trickling stream before stumbling

across one of the

most

beautiful campsites

I

could imagine: a tiny grassy

glade under the trees, right by the water's edge, with a view the

length of the water. I

pitched

my tent

full

stood watching grebes diving and herons feeding.

I

and used

my

little

stove to heat a Christmas dinner

of chicken curry pasta and Christmas pudding. As the sun dropped

Ellen MacArthur

202

wooded

slowly over the

and drank

Next

in the

slopes,

I

my

back in

lay

tent,

doors wide open,

atmosphere.

day, after a lazy

morning making porridge and berry

tea, read-

ing, and paddling amongst shoals of baby fish, I packed away my "home" and by about midday headed on along the track, determined to spend my next night by the sea. At one place, I came across a patch of long,

lush grass.

Mac

with

As

I

omen It

at it

happily walked straight into

as a kid,

and

—

it

me

reminded

missed not having her with me.

1

spotted a kingfisher on a branch in the nearby

I

for the night's camping,

was

of walks

I

glanced

steep sides to see gulls circling over the water hundreds of feet

as if I'd

I

woods

—

good

a

felt.

climbed out of my skin and could take

my worries before

a bird's-eye

look

returning revitalized to the yard and the team. But

was hard to admit to myself that

how

it

headed up to the ridge, the views were breathtaking.

down the below.

I

some ways I was unhappy. After

in

all,

was about to see the launch of Kingfisher, about to sail her halfway around the world. But blanking out my true feelings would could

I

me

not help

be?

or

I

Merv

in the

long run.

port him; but however hard through.

Maybe

I

just

into the project, and

things

I

tried,

He was I

wanted to supdidn't seem to be getting tired,

just

and

I

had to try harder; we had both put so I

thought that

perhaps once she was

much

effort

in the water,

would change.

woke

morning at 0530. As looked through the open tent door, I saw the orange glow of the rising sun appearing behind the cliffs. I could have sworn I was in Narnia, and as the morning warmed up, the steam from the damp grass emphasized the magical atmosphere. I

the following

I

Either side the beach stretches awayfor miles, not a soul to be seen, just

my solitary set offootprints

This seems almost

England the beaches would be packed and noisy. Over the past three hours I've even seen an endangered species, washed in a freshwater river, and perched on a solitary log all out of sight of man, and milesfrom the nearest surreal; if this were

.

.

.

house.

I

was ready to get back to Kingfisher. Although the days that followed began on

a

more

positive note, things

Taking On THE were not getting any better with Merv. think they would.

We

After an early night, sad,

of

and

my

I

Early on

I

had to leave Merv.

had slipped in

took

into.

I

it.

It

felt,

hours to

fall

asleep.

I

lay there feeling

tiptoed outside into the fields past

I

river. It

was peaceful

there.

I

might even jog him out of this insane

thought back to our

Southampton, when he

would be

had been kidding myself to

I

These should have been the happiest times

edge of the

seven-year relationship. things

me

New Year's Day

flocks of sheep to the

203

celebrated the millennium together in the house. it

hated myself for

life.

World

I

first

said that his boat Maverick

I

that

lifestyle

he

conversation on that wet day

had thought that having so

different for us. But

knew

had cost him

much

could not carry on

in

a

common,

like this; nor,

I

could he.

Soon after New Year returned briefly to Europe, where spent a week in London for the International Boat Show. We had organized a live I

webcast and late

a press

I

launch for the Vendee Globe

awareness of the Vendee in the

UK. We had

Bullimore, and Catherine Chabaud from France

itself,

trying to stimu-

Goss,Tony

invited Pete

—

competitors from the

previous Vendee. All three spoke of their experiences, with Catherine talking of her plans to circumnavigate again in the next Vendee with her

new

boat. Whirlpool. She talked of her experiences in the last race, saying

that this time she

was

raising her sights, putting the sport aspect above

the adventure. Pete spoke of his position in the previous race, saying that

he was an adventurer and not a matter

how

sailor,

and that rang a

aspect of the Vendee Globe. As a result of ships out there, the adventure part said, there

of the

handed

bell in

my head. No

geared up for racing you are, you can never take away that

were

last race.

a million

Tony

people

in

said that the

is

its

conditions and the hard-

almost crucial. And,

as

Catherine

Les Sables d'Olonne to see the start

Vendee was the ultimate

in single-

what you love, then you can't miss it. I then went up on stage with Mike Golding, whose ultimate goal with his racing, and that

if that's

Team Group 4 project had always been the Vendee.

experience than

I

did, as well as a reliable

one of the favourites, and

I

felt

He had

so

much more

and well- tested boat. He was

nervous while he spoke.

While I was in Europe I also had time, however little, to spend with friends, which made a massive difference to the state of mind I'd got into in New Zealand. Ian McKay, the graphic designer who had worked on

Mac Arthur

Ellen

204

the project since earlier in the year, as usual proved incredibly support-

He was a kind man who always had time for people, and all the team members looked to him when they needed someone to talk to, which is ive.

was an immense relief to unload some of my worries. In New Zealand, I was close to the team but could not really talk to them about what was going on with Merv, as it wouldn't be fair for them or him. Ian was great, though, incredibly patient, and as he himself verged on being a workaholic, I think he understood Merv's what

I

did in London.

predicament. I

I

It

about

felt

a

ton lighter after sharing things with him.

wink on the

didn't sleep a

back to

flight

New

Zealand, however.

my my

While I w^as thinking about every aspect of sailing Kingfisher home, mind drifted to Merv. I was desperately trying to work things out in head, but time was running out. ter in the first Kingfisher

few days, then

was

her

in

I

If

our relationship did not get any bet-

would have

end

to

now, and

final stages

it

it.

was wonderful to see her

almost ready to launch. She would be in the water

weeks' time.

On

for the boys,

and

the Friday after

I

arrived,

we had

was great to see the team

in less

than two

an evening of beers

on everyone's faces, despite the final grind to the launch, and to catch up with what had been happening while I'd been away. it

again, to see the smiles

But the situation with Merv hadn't changed.

worse

—

to the extent that

was

I

really

If

anything,

worried about him.

I

it

was

was getting

up earlier and earlier; now I would sit for an hour on the beach and watch the sun rise before going to the gym. It was becoming ridiculous, and

finally

I

decided that

if

I

didn't call a halt,

we would probably both

go mad.

when everyone

Several days later,

else

had

left

the yard,

I

went to

talk

more softly, but the truth was too painful. He was not the same man had known twelve months before. I'm sure that the break was harder because we both knew how to Merv.

I

wished

I

could have broken

it I

much he was lem.

I

felt

putting into the project, but this was the root of the prob-

desperately sad, especially

time alone, and

I

when Merv disappeared

could not even talk to him.

I

to spend

cannot imagine what must

have been going through his mind during the time he was away.

At the same time, sure I

mounted

was so glad

accordingly.

that

launch was approaching, and the pres-

Kingfisher's It

was

everyone else

a difficult situation

rallied

without Merv, and

round. Martin Carter took over

On

Taking the final organization and

Mar ten Yachts

Mark assumed

for the first time

on

a

a lorry,

and

I

205

bigger role, too. Kingfisher

and

left

a.m. on Wednesday, 9

at 3

February 2000, the gates parted for her. Mark and

in

World

the

1

followed in the

car,

stood up through the sun roof to film her enormous hull weaving

and out of the Auckland

we were both

streets. It

wasn't really a time for words;

struck by just what a milestone

I

was to see her go through the gates of the yard that had given birth to her. Five months of a w^ork of art. I felt so proud of effort and care emerged as Kingfisher think

it

—

who

everyone

had helped us get

this far.

She went into the water several days

later.

Mum and Dad had arrived

the evening before, and, counting Brest before the Mini and St.-Malo

before the Route du

was now the third time they had ventured Merv was now back too, and I was glad he

Rhum,

it

abroad to one of our events. was there to see her touch her new home, the sea, for the first time. Mum poured champagne over her keel for good luck, and as Kingfisher w^as

lowered into the water,

wash those

first

I

was

able to

time was our dream come true

—now

stood on her keel bulb until

I

splashes of real seawater over her keel.

Seeing her afloat for the

first

she could really show her character. Strangely, apart from the rumble of

moment, though incredibly intense. I think we were all close to tears. Mark spoke to a camera, saying, "I think that from the outside it's very hard for people to appreciate just how much work actually has to happen, and how much commitment goes into getting a the hoist,

boat like

We

it

was

a quiet

this into the water."

were

launch, so

in the

He was

water for about

we had time

to test

all

absolutely right.

days before her official public

five

her systems.

the obvious pieces such as the mast and

sails.

The

boat

is

not just about

interior netsvork of hy-

—

from solar panels and electronics is incredibly sophisticated computers to autopilots and two enormous hydraulic rams to cant

draulics

to

A

her swinging keel, each weighing

more than

I

did and not only holding

but moving the most incredible loads. Everything has to be checked, and tested. To see the

first

hoisting of her

enormous

fitted,

sails

was

nothing short of spectacular, and to feel her glide through the water for the

first

ments,

I

time was unbelievable. As

took her helm for those

had the strangest feeling that

wasn't like a ing,

I

it felt

new

more

experience. Although

like a re -acquaintance

first

mo-

1

had been there before, and

I

struggled to describe the feel-

with an old friend.

it

Ellen MacArthur

206

The launch

itself

was

everyone involved with

a great occasion for

Kingfisher to this point. All four of her designers tier,

who'd flown in from France

they

all felt

Italian

a great place to

team Prada had made

be it

including Alain Gau-

Zealand

the cup. There were onlookers everywhere as

just

hoped

that

of the America's Cup.

through to the

New

I

built.

at this stage

to race a2;ainst Sir Peter Blake's Team

side the

—

joined us, and

proud of the beautiful boat they had

Auckland was

The

—had

we

finals

—

and was about

current holders of

tied Kingfisher along-

pontoon.

Just before the launch,

we

attached a plaque that read, "Built in

New

Marten Yachts." It was carved out of a piece of kauri wood estimated to be up to 800 years old. A Maori group performed a haka on the pontoon beside her. It was the first time I had seen this, and I think both Mark and I were overcome by the sheer power of emotion it conveyed. Kingfisher will always be a Kiwi to us, and it seemed appropriate to bring her into the world that way. Her naming was carried out by Lady Pippa Blake, wife of the most outstanding sailor Zealand by the team

ever

—

at

Sir Peter Blake.

I

stood nervously stroking

my

fingers over her as

Pippa 's words rang out powerfully and confidently over the crowds:

name

this

boat Kingfisher.

May God bless her and

all

who

sail in

her

—

"1

es-

pecially Ellen."

Once pit

the bottle smashed over her bow,

and kissed her bow.

I

climbed over

Kingfisher's pul-

Chapter Fifteen

One month

after her commissioning, Kingfisher

left

New

Zealand for

we sailed away from Auckland, for skyline we knew so well disappear into the

the 12,000-mile journey home. As the

first

time

we watched the

distance. I'd loved

New

Zealand.

spent in one place for years, and

it

was the longest period of time I'd had begun to feel like home, through

It

amongst the team and the kindness and enthusiasm that the Kiwis had shown for the project. But the delivery trip would take us halfway around the world, and I was desperately looking forward to it. We decided to stage the journey in two legs: the first stage would

both the great

spirit

Cape Horn, with a crew of four; then I would sail home to Europe alone. I would have the chance to really get to know Kingfisher. The crew for the first part of our trip was Bruno Dubois, Martin Carter, and Andrew Cape. Capey had routed me for the Route du Rhum and had sailed as navigator in numerous offshore races, including the Whitbread twice. He was a blond Australian, and although without doubt he had the characteristic Aussie sense of humour, he was outtake us to

wardly quieter. a

He and were I

view to our Southern Ocean

Bruno was from North sails

going to discuss the weather in detail with leg.

Sails

and had been working with us on our

since the beginning of the project.

We were in the process of devel-

new type of durable offshore sail made in one piece on a mould, which many said would never work for the Vendee. Bruno was oping a relatively

207

Ellen MacArthur

208

great to have on board, having

competed and been involved

host of racing^ events, including the Whitbread

We when

were

to 38 knots,

cations

and even

if all

went

for

most

on board

on the

is

a

was coming up in June, couple weeks to prepare qualifier for the

on the

start line

Vendee

was very

skipper's Vendee preparations.

area about a metre square.

the sink

Star

we would have just a back in the UK. It was the

Kingfisher

two manual pump site

New Man

entrants, too, so being there

much a part of every Life

1

well,

once we arrived

Globe

treated very kindly

spent

I

months' time, but the Europe

it

a depression

many hours talking to Martin about longer-term modifiand preparations. Not only did we have the Vendee start in ten

first leg.

for

we were

whole

in a

years before.

happy crew, and except for the tail-end of

a

wind piped up

the

many

taps,

is

pretty basic, with standing

room

only in an

On the starboard side, there's a tiny sink with

one for seawater and one for fresh water. Oppo-

gimballed camping gas stove, designed to stay level

whatever Kingfisher was doing. That's concerned, however

—no

it

as far as

kitchen and hygiene are

no hot water. I slept on the chart-table seat for the delivery, leaving the pipe-cot bunks on each side of her cabin to the guys and especially Capey! Apart from this tiny part in which we lived, there was just storage for sails and food, and sacrificial areas which in grave circumstances could be isolated completely from the rest of the boat with watertight doors. When we think of dangers

at sea,

toilet,

icebergs spring to

Arctic and Antarctic waters obstacles

no shower, and

—

mind

—

certainly

they are numerous in both

but there are also plenty of other floating

which can bring your race to an abrupt and frightening end.

Cape Horn was stunning, far more than just the rugged storm-swept rock one imagines. We had arranged to meet up with another boat, Pelagic,

skippered and crewed by Hamish Laird and his wife, Kate.

was on board, along with Antony Lane and electronics engineer lite

and

who we hoped would

communications dome. his

It

had been

a

calming character was wonderful

a friend of his, plus a fix

in

French

our temperamental

while since

I

Mark satel-

had seen Antony,

such a short-lived but po-

moment. moments of daylight, we watched

tentially very stressful In the final

the high mountains in

the distance, ice-covered and sticking jaggedly out of the fjords. That

night

wc moored

in a

bay

named

Calcta Martial and were ferried over to

Taking On the

World

209

was reluctant to leave Kingfisher but knew that before 1 left on my own the next day, I would need to sleep. At daybreak, I climbed Pelagic's companionway to be greeted by one of the most beautiful anchorages I had ever seen. The meal and

Pelagic for a

a sleep in

cushioned bunks!

1

shores were a faded, weathered green and the water pure, dark, and still;

perfect reflection.

The cold

my legs

the cockpit, pulling I

hundred

Kingfisher lay silently just a

left that

air

feet away, as

my

cut through

close to

if

resting

thermals as

I

on her

perched in

my body.

afternoon, sailing Kingfisher alone for the

first

time

—and

only just in time, too, as a storm blew through, leaving the others to battle into

60-knot headwinds

breeze to the north. We had

as

I

sailed

away

several real tests

in the last of the lighter

on

that trip, but the

main

thing was to learn. Weather decisions are crucial to the single-handed sailor,

and each day

my

and e-mail

would work out my weather

I

thoughts to Jean-Yves Bernot.

things, particularly

when

strategy as

Not being

if

racing

able to discuss

you're tired, can be enormously stressful, and

working with Jean- Yves helped my confidence. I was collecting weather information from the Internet, using the satellite communication equip-

ment on board, which which has

a

and

a

voice,

consisted of

two

satellite

telephones: a Mini-M,

slow Internet connection speed that

Satcom-B

satellite

I

used primarily for

connection with which

1

could log on to

ISDN speed. Although the Internet is a big much information is available that the real art is to

the Internet at

aid to naviga-

tion, so

decide what's

useful and what's not.

As

Kingfisher

and

Neptune's ancient

I

crossed the Equator,

felt

obliged to follow King

initiation rite. Tradition dictates that

passes the Equator for the erally, this

I

first

time

is

to be tied

each sailor

who

up and tortured. Gen-

involves being dressed up, covered in disgusting food, and of-

ten having bits of hair shaved

off!

I

made myself a cardboard crown and

wrapped myself in the European flag, talking to the camera as King Neptune. Then 1 changed roles to become the victim, mixing up an unappetizing blend of dried peas, stew, and chocolate protein compound, which I poured all over myself. I filmed it all and sent back footage. Mark and the rest of the team were sure I'd lost it! 1 thought a great deal about all of them while 1 was out there. I had pictures of Marie, Pipo, and the kids; another from Kingfisher's launch, with the team standing proudly on her after deck; one of Mum and Dad; trident and

Ellen MacArthur

210

and

a card

Mark had

given me.

had

I

a tiny

model of Foncia, Alain Gau-

tier's trimaran, in the centre of the chart table he'd given

New

flown to

Zealand for our

souls of a great I

developed

alone.

We

on

Kingfisher.

The

hearts and

number of people were on board with me.

a very special relationship

learnt to rely

happy with either too as close to

first sail

me when he'd

on each

little

100 per cent

or too

with Kingfisher during our time 1

much

sail,

as she could.

I

when she was unwhen she wanted to sail

could feel

other.

or

was continually cleaning

her, tidy-

up any mess or minor damage. I knew exactly where things were and always stowed the ropes meticulously in her cockpit, so they didn't lie on the floor. Down below we had fitted numerous storage racks on ei-

ing

ther side and underneath her side-decks, so that plastic

we

could firmly attach

boxes containing everything from spare winch parts to circuit

board spares to dried

fruit.

And when

run through the harder jobs side to help

tacking

is

keep her

level

—

such

I

practiced tacking and gybing,

as shifting these

I'd

boxes from side to

and consequently more powerful.

Physically,

one of the toughest and most frustrating jobs on board.

A

on a 60foot racing yacht such as Kingfisher. From preparing everything and shifting the weight to physically tacking and then tidying up her lines afterdinghy can be tacked in seconds, but

wards, I

it's

a

it

takes about half an hour

mission you certainly don't just undertake for the sake of it!

also learnt a lot

about myself.

1

saw that sleep had

a large effect

on

my well-being and decision-making capabilities, and discovered natural sleep patterns which helped me recover more quickly from fatigue. I

I

was happy on board, and felt very much learnt about her, and I knew more about nesses.

1

home with Kingfisher. I had my own tolerances and weakat

had a funny feeling that that information would be useful

come

—and

in the

was right. My first landfall was the lie de Groix, just off the French coast, and there I met up with some of the shore team to go through the jobs list and discuss the work that needed to be done before reaching UK shores. Kingfisher looked immaculate as we made our way through the Solent, and 1 felt intensely proud of her. We were met by a host of people, including Mum, Dad, and Gran, who waved from the Red Funnel Red Jet! Ashley Perrin was down in the main sitting area with Gran. I saw them both looking out, and then there was a third face in the window Mac! Gran even came on board when we had finally tied up alongside in

year to

I

—

Mum and

Dad

at

home

in

Derbyshire

•i

/,_

'..*

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