Snowshoeing Colorado [3 ed.] 9781555917951, 9781555915292

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SCOLORADO nowshoeing

Text and photographs copyright © Claire Walter 1980 (first edition), 2000 (second edition), and 2004, unless otherwise noted All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other wise, without written permission from the publisher. The information contained in this book is based upon the experiences of the author and might not be perceived as accurate by other persons. This book is not a substitute for sound judgment. Extreme care should be taken when following any of the routes or techniques described in this book. Proper clothing and equipment are essential when attempting to snowshoe any of the routes described in this book. Failure to have the requisite experience, equipment, and conditioning may subject you to extreme physical danger , including injury and death. The safety of the routes described in this book may have changed since the book’ s publication, as well as any associated dangers. Maps pictured in this book are for route definition only; use updated, full-scale USGS quadrangles for actual routes. Neither Fulcrum Publishing nor the author assume any liability for injur y, damage to property, or violation of the law that may arise from the use of this book. There are no warranties, either express or implied, that the infor mation contained within this book is reliable. There are no implied warranties or merchantability of this book. There are no warranties that extend beyond the description on the face hereof. Use of this book indicates the user’ s assumption of risk that it may contain errors as well as the user’ s acknowledgment that the user is solely accountable for his or her own abilities to snowshoe in a safe and responsible manner . Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Walter, Claire. Snowshoeing Colorado / Claire Walter.-- 3rd ed. p. cm. Includes index. ISBN 1-55591-529-9 (pbk.) 1. Snowshoes and snowshoeing--Colorado--Guidebooks. 2. T rails--Colorado--Guidebooks. 3. Colorado-Guidebooks. I. Title. GV853.W35 2004 796.92'09788--dc22 2004023348 ISBN 1-55591-529-9 Printed in the United States of America 0987654321 Project Editor: Daniel Forrest-Bank Cover photograph: © Melanie Stephens • www.melaniestephens.com Maps: XNR Productions, Inc. (with updates made by Fulcrum Publishing, cour tesy of XNR Productions, Inc.) Fulcrum Publishing 16100 Table Mountain Parkway, Ste. 300 Golden, Colorado 80403 (800) 992-2908 • (303) 277-1623

www.fulcrum-books.com

SCOLORADO nowshoeing Claire Walter

FULCRUM PUBLISHING GOLDEN, COLORADO

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CONTENTS

iv Snowshoeing

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Preface .........................................................................................viii Acknowledgments.........................................................................ix

The Basics ..........................................................................1 Getting Started .......................................................................1 Equipment .............................................................................14 Clothing .................................................................................23 Technique..............................................................................26 Backcountry Cautions ............................................................34 TRAILS 1–64

Front Range ......................................................................40 Poudre Canyon ......................................................................42 Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side............................50 Brainard Lake........................................................................75 Nederland and Rollinsville.....................................................90 Idaho Springs and Georgetown..............................................102 Pikes Peak Region .................................................................118 TRAILS 65–134

Central Colorado ........................................................130 Summit County ......................................................................132 The Vail Valley .......................................................................154 Leadville and Twin Lakes .......................................................165 Aspen and Snowmass.............................................................183 Glenwood Springs and Carbondale ........................................202 Crested Butte .........................................................................209 Fairplay and South Park.........................................................222 Salida and Buena Vista...........................................................228

CONTENTS

Northern Colorado ....................................................238 Winter Park and Granby ........................................................240 Rocky Mountain National Park—West Side ...........................256 Steamboat Springs .................................................................266 TRAILS 164–182

Western Colorado ......................................................286 Grand Mesa ...........................................................................288 Ouray and Ridgway................................................................296 Telluride and Lizard Head Pass..............................................303 Mesa Verde Country...............................................................315

Appendix Appendix A: Touching Other Bases ........................................323 Appendix B: Media Sources ...................................................329 Appendix C: Government Agencies.........................................331 Appendix D: Equipment.........................................................334 Appendix E: Other Resources ................................................337 Appendix F: Trails Rated by Difficulty.....................................338 Index ............................................................................................341

Snowshoeing

TRAILS 135–163

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vi Craig 14

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40 

Dinosaur

Steamboat Springs 64

34  40 

Meeker

Granby

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r Rive do

Winter Park

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River Yampa

Bever Vail Creek Minturn 24

Glenwood Springs

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82

Grand Junction

Frisco

Aspen

9

Leadville Fairplay 133

G un

24  Buena

n is

Crested Butte

on Ri

s Dolore

ve

Vista 135

r

Almont

Delta

River

Gunnison Montrose

Salida

50  550 

149

Ridgway 62

Lake City

285 

Ouray

Westcl

Telluride Silverton

Creede

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Pagosa Springs

Cortez 160 

160 

Alamosa

Durango

San Luis

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7

34 

County Line

Lyons 76 

Boulder

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Eldora

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Golden Idaho Springs

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7 72

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Greeley

State Highway


Denver 25 

Castle Rock

th

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tte Riv er

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Limon

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24 

Colorado Springs 115

˜ Canon City 67

Pueblo 96

96

165

Arkan sas R

iv er

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50 

19

La Junta 69

287 

Walsenburg Fort Garland 159

160 

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Fort Estes Collins Park Loveland

liffe

s

25 

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S ou



vii

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viii Snowshoeing

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MY SNOWSHOEING HISTORY resembles many other people’s—perhaps yours. I first tried snowshoes some years ago, on a ranger’s recommendation for exploring the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias in California’s Yosemite National Park. The snowshoes were the old wooden variety—probably too big, and definitely too heavy, for my height and weight— the kind that should have been retired to become mantelpieces over someone’s fireplace. The wet snow kept wadding up under my boot soles and hardening until I felt as if I were walking with baseballs under my arches. I rolled along like the proverbial drunken sailor until I could hardly stand up. Periodically, I had to stop, unstrap the snowshoes, chip away at the rock-hard clumps, and saddle up again for the next leg of the hike. At first, I longed for the familiarity of cross-country skis on the descent into the grove, but even then, I grudgingly acknowledged the advantages of snowshoes, frustrations and all. It was nice not to think about snagging long skis on the underbrush. It was liberating to stomp off by myself without worrying about sinking knee-deep into the snow. It was fun to take little detours to see another tree from another angle, just getting far enough from the group to be awed by the arboreal majesty. Yet, in their own way, the snowshoes inspired as much humility as did the sequoias. My gait was ducklike and my energy expenditure certainly excessive, but because I was in such a special place, I was willing to waddle and chip and scrape snow until I ran out of steam, which was right about the time the naturalist trip ended. Even in my discomfort, I knew snowshoes had great potential, if someone would only perfect them. And darned if that hasn’t happened. Technology has taken hold of this ancient form of snow travel and turned it into a beguiling winter recreational activity. Today’s snowshoes have all the benefits of the traditional wooden ones but without the drawbacks. Current models are lightweight, the bindings are easier to use, and talons underfoot minimize sliding on slopes. Although some hardcore traditionalists still use them, the tennis-racquet–like snowshoes that frustrated me in Yosemite have fallen out of favor. Back home in Colorado, my snowshoe epiphany came on a summer hike. Several years ago, my husband and I planned a late June hike to Cathedral Lake near Aspen. When we heard about the heavy snowpack remaining near the lake, we strapped borrowed snowshoes to our packs and began hiking. We felt silly, in the 90-degree heat, with the tools of winter flopping along behind us. Then, as we got close to the lake, several hikers on their way down remarked, “You’ll be really glad you brought those. There’s still a lot of snow up there, and it’s soft.” And we were glad. The snowshoes allowed us to frolic on the snow surface while other hikers were post-holing the final quarter mile. We fooled around like kids with new toys, then clomped off to the far side of the lake for a picnic in splendid isolation, even on a summer Sunday when we shared the trail with many other hikers. Since then, I have come to love the freedom and ease of snowshoeing. And, yes, it’s fun and good exercise too. Author Claire Walter. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Snowshoeing

IN PREPARATION FOR WRITING the first two editions of this book during the winters of 1997–1998 and 1999–2000 and this third edition four years after that, I have racked up many miles on snowshoes and many more on my car’s odometer. I have traveled around Colorado to snowshoe on National Park and National Forest trails, on Nordic trails lovingly tended by volunteers, on professionally maintained trails at for-profit cross-country ski centers and guest ranches, and up and down ski trails at Alpine areas. I have gone alone, followed guides, and shared trails with some of my favorite people. I now have so many individuals to thank for making the research such a pleasure that a list would become epic, but I hope that their memories of our excursions are as pleasant as mine. I’ve followed in the snow prints and tapped into the wisdom of professional snowshoeing guides, racers, and “guest wranglers” at dude ranches that I visited in my winter travels— and I have snowshoed with friends whose companionship I always treasure. I appreciate these patient snowshoeing companions, who were always willing to wait while I scribbled notes or took some photos, often of them. Representatives of snowshoe companies, Nordic skiing centers, Alpine ski resorts, resort associations, chambers of commerce, and guest ranches helped me round out this book, and several also supplied fine photographs. Thanks, gang; you know who you are. On behalf of all of us who love the outdoors, thanks also go to the dedicated rangers in Colorado’s National Forests, National Parks, and state parks who devote themselves to nurturing Colorado’s special backcountry. Eight winters have passed between research for the first and third editions, so I sent copies of trail descriptions to the appropriate public land management officials for updates. In particular, I direct my appreciation to those who took the time to go over the manuscript to help me assure that this material is current and factually correct. They include John Anarella (Yampa Ranger District), Greg P. Austin (Gunnison Ranger District), Vicky Burton (Sulphur Ranger District), Peter N. Edwards (Silverthorne Ranger District), Jimmy Gaudry (Leadville Ranger District), Shelly L. Grail (Aspen Ranger District), Leslie McFadden (Arapahoe and Roosevelt National Forest), Corey Meyers (Holy Cross Ranger District), Maribeth H. Pecotte (Boulder Ranger District), Jon Thompson (Sopris Ranger District), and Patti Turecek (Clear Creek Ranger District)—all from the U.S. Forest Service. At Rocky Mountain National Park, Jim Capps, Joan Childers, and Jim Detterline have cast expert eyes on trail descriptions, and Susie Yost reviewed the Mueller State Park trail information. If I have omitted anyone, please accept my apologies as well as my thanks. My deepest gratitude goes to my husband, Ral Sandberg, who joined in as many trips as his schedule permitted. He also contributed many photographs to this book and spent countless hours pouring over maps, instruments, and his computer to track elevations and distances to make it as accurate as possible. And, of course, boundless appreciation flows to editors Sam Scinta, Kristen Foehner, and Katie Raymond at Fulcrum Publishing; to Daniel Forrest-Bank, who shepherded the first two editions of this book from concept to completion while an editor at Fulcrum and who, now as a freelance editor and graphic designer, again turned his sharp eyes to the copy for this third edition; to Annie Douden, the book’s designer; and to everyone else who had a hand in making this edition even better than the first two.

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Rocky Mountain National Park has plenty of powder that is too tempting to resist. (Photo by Jack Lenzo)

THE BASICS Getting Started

you virtually anywhere there is snow. These big webbed feet that attach to your smaller ones provide hassle-free access to the white world, limited mainly by your level of fitness, your experience in the backcountry, your liking for the controlled environment at a ski-touring center where trails are well marked and comfort features are offered, and your feelings about guided touring versus the quiet companionship of just a good friend or two. It’s a tranquil activity, yet it can be a sociable one. Snowshoeing with a group of amiable companions is not just a winter pleasure but a safety measure as well. It can also be intensely sporty, offering a winter version of trail running and racing. Other than the snowshoes themselves, you probably already own all the equipment and clothing you’ll need. Quite literally, if you can walk, you can snowshoe. The learning curve is minimal, the pleasures are virtually instant, and the chances for injury are far less than for most other outdoor activities. It’s a multigenerational sport, one that parents can do with their children and adults can do with their own parents. Snowshoeing is so hot that it’s cool. Why? It’s practically custom-made for baby boomers, no longer in the flower of youth, who find it a low-key, easy way to enjoy winter, bond with nature, and get whatever degree of exercise they desire. It is winter’s answer to walking and hiking, which are arguably America’s most popular outdoor leisure activities, and it is equally popular with ultra-fit runners, who use it for winter training. In short, it is an activity that crosses boundaries of age, fitness level, outdoor experience, and personal ambition. You can follow a well-marked trail at a cross-country or Alpine ski center, or amble along a hiking trail, or even a local park path dozing under a blanket of white, where it’s impossible to get lost or confused. You can roam around in the confined area of a snowed-in campground to get the feel of snowshoeing, or wander down a snow-covered logging or mining road that may be closed to motor vehicles in winter and that perhaps has only minimal snowmobile traffic. You can enjoy snowshoeing as a family or join a guided naturalist tour to learn about the seemingly somnolent winter world. You can slot snowshoe running into the most ardent fitness program. Or you can bundle up for a snowshoe walk under a full moon, which can be an incredibly romantic experience, even if you and your special someone are snowshoeing with a group.

Roots and New Growth

Joan Scribner-Lemieux of Tubbs demonstrates the disappearing art of lacing traditional wood frame snowshoes. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Snowshoeing is at once the newest snowsport and one of the oldest. Snowshoes’ origins are shrouded in the misty days of prehistory and distant places. The year 4000 B.C. is an oftquoted guesstimate for the existence of the earliest ones. Some archaeologists believe the first snowshoes were lashedtogether circles or ovals of wood, bark, or rawhide. Others believe that they were solid slabs of wood. They probably were first made in central Asia. It is conceivable—in fact, very likely—that the people who long ago crossed the Bering Land Bridge to North America did so on snowshoes. Snowshoes are used by the native peoples of the Arctic region, those early North Americans whose ancestors came to this continent on rudimentary snowshoes. Their descendants

Snowshoeing

SNOWSHOES are the sport utility vehicles of the winter backcountry. They can take

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Getting Started moved south into the Great Plains as well as into the forested but still snowy zones we know as the North Woods, where they still needed oversnow transportation. Over the centuries, snowshoes were refined, as people made finely crafted wood frame models, often of ash with rawhide webbing, and added crossbars for lateral stability. They also developed long-tailed models as an improvement over the simple oval for tracking straight, and they tinkered with the part that actually holds the foot onto the snowshoe. After this slow evolution, during which wooden models were steadily improved, the late twentieth century witnessed a true revolution in snowshoe design. Dramatic technical advances—lightweight, easy-to-use aluminum frame snowshoes, functional footwear, and versatile winter outerwear—have turned a quaint, quirky Paul Bunyanesque activity that was primarily functional into a fast-growing recreational activity. Unprecedented numbers of snowshoers have established their place in the backcountry, on trails, and elsewhere in the snowbelt. Snowshoe sales have, not surprisingly, skyrocketed. Many Colorado winter trails now see more snowshoers than skiers.

About This Book

Snowshoeing is a way to enjoy the winter outdoors—strolling, trotting, or at full gallop. (Courtesy of Tubbs Snowshoes)

Writing a where-to guide for Colorado snowshoers is a daunting task, because when there’s snow on the ground, you can go just about anywhere on snowshoes. Indeed, one of the sport’s greatest pleasures is its versatility. Snowshoeing Colorado is a trail guide—and more. It starts as a basic resource for the new snowshoer and veteran, followed by descriptions of some of the best, most accessible, and varied trails, as well as guided snowshoe tours, snowshoe races, and sources for equipment and further information of equal interest to both new and experienced snowshoers. Traditional wood frame snowshoes and contemporary lightweight models of aluminum or heavy-duty plastic are different, but assume that issues of equipment and technique in this book refer to modern snowshoes. This book concentrates on representative snowshoeing routes within day-trip distance of Front Range population centers, as well as a sampling of trails at and very near major resorts. I’ve narrowed it down by selecting, in some of the state’s most popular and accessible recreation areas, an easy trail, several moderate ones, and perhaps a challenging one.

THE BASICS

Each trail description begins with some important statistics: starting elevation, highest elevation, elevation difference (including gains and losses due to undulations in the route) for the length described, and distance (one way or loop). There are also notations for each trail on avalanche hazard, shared trail use with snowmobiles, and whether dogs are allowed, with every effort made to confirm these issues with the U.S. Forest Service, National Park Service, or other responsible agency. Note that dog and snowmobile policies can change. Starting elevation, measured at the trailhead, and highest point should be fairly straightforward, but even expert sources frequently conflict. For example, Bierstadt Lake, one of the most popular year-round hiking destinations in Rocky Mountain National Park, is shown at 9,320 feet on the park’s own Bear Lake Area winter map and at 9,416 feet on the U.S. Geological Survey’s (USGS) 7.5-Minute topographic map. Kent and Donna Dannen’s Rocky Mountain Hiking Trails uses the USGS figure, whereas Dave Muller’s equally carefully researched Colorado Mountain Ski Tours and Hikes uses 9,430 feet. The two altimeters in our family have indicated different elevations (different from each other and from those listed above) each time we’ve hiked to this beautiful lake, and when you go, yours probably will show yet another number, and tracking a route with Topo!, a National Geographic computer product, reveals yet another. So we’ve done our best, but consider these numbers as guidelines and not gospel. Elevation gain and trail length are even more elusive to pin down, because undulations in the trail make measurements difficult. Remember that when a trail has both elevation gain and loss, that loss must be regained when returning to the trailhead. Additionally, variations between summer and winter versions of the same route sometimes modify its length, and snowshoers often bushwhack and shortcut a standard route. One-way distances are the maximum length in miles for the routes described. Obviously, they must be doubled for an outand-back round-trip. They can be shortened, and in many cases the prime route description is followed by a few words on possible extensions for strong, fast snowshoers, or people who are enjoying great snow, scenery, and weather and want to extend their day. “Difficulty” is subjective. In this book, “Easy” means a route that is wide and flat with little elevation change. “Challenging” refers to a route that has one long or several shorter steep sections, is a long route, is at high elevation, or exhibits a combination of these factors. “Moderate” is everything in between, and “Easy to Moderate” and “Moderate to Challenging” are further refinements to help you select a route that suites your ability and stamina. I have purposely avoided giving hiking times because time is based on a number of factors. It takes longer to cover the same distance and elevation gain when breaking trail than it does on packed-down snow, and conditioning, skill level, and experience factor in also. A wellconditioned runner and beginning showshoer or a parent with a small child cover the same distance in very different times.

Of Skiers, Snowslides, and Other Matters Many of the trails in this book are on public lands, mostly managed by the U.S. Forest Service. The routes are open to the public for recreational use, and you can find many of them described in numerous hiking and backcountry ski guides. Because cross-country skiing became popular before snowshoeing took off, and because snowshoers and skiers

Snowshoeing

How Trails Are Described

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Getting Started share the same trails, skiing and awareness of skiing and other uses are often mentioned in this book. Also, because snowshoeing is such a multifaceted activity, this book attempts to be more than just a trail guide, covering snowshoeing venues beyond the trails on public lands. Therefore, snowshoeing opportunities at cross-country ski centers and Alpine ski areas are included, as are guided snowshoe tours, annual races, and snowshoeing at guest ranches that are open in winter. Forest Service, National Park, and state park rangers who are familiar with each area have been asked to confirm distances, elevations, and such, as well as to provide their take on the avalanche hazard for these routes. When the danger level is described as “None,” it means that there are no slopes anyplace nearby where snow could slide. “Low” means that such problems are very unlikely. “Moderate” is just that, implying that the route is probably safe in low-hazard situations, whereas “High” means stay away unless hazards are reported and you are experienced in the winter backcountry. For information on obtaining timely avalanche reports, see Appendix E. Lastly, this book is defined as much by what it is not as by what it is. It is not intended as an in-depth book on snowshoeing equipment or technique, nor is it meant to be a guide to the deep backcountry, nor is it a primer on cold-weather camping or winter survival, nor is it a training manual for serious snowshoe racers. Other authors have covered these subjects in depth. Although these topics are valid and are occasionally touched on where appropriate here, they go beyond the scope of this book.

Hard to believe, perhaps, when seeing a fleet-footed snowshoer, but snowshoeing is as simple as putting one foot in front of the other. (Courtesy of Tubbs Snowshoes)

THE BASICS

Starting Off on the Right Foot There is actually no “wrong foot” in snowshoeing, but you may feel more comfortable beginning with a little lesson (note, “little” being the operative word for learning this simple activity), or you might want to tap into snowshoeing’s sociable side from the start. Many outdoor clubs, social organizations—from singles’ to seniors’ clubs—recreation centers, and adult education programs regularly put snowshoeing on their winter calendars. Front Range sporting-goods stores that sell and rent snowshoes often host clinics, workshops, tours, or slide shows on the subject. Check local newspapers for listings of snowshoeing activities. Snowshoeing has also found its way into many local winter festivals in mountain towns throughout the state, where downhill ski resorts and cross-country centers in Colorado also offer snowshoeing. All of these are discussed in subsequent chapters. Organized trips are a staple with the esteemed Colorado Mountain Club, which now has a couple hundred snowshoeing trips on its winter schedule for members and with chapters and subgroups of the Sierra Club. Rocky Mountain National Park rangers lead free weekend snowshoe hikes from late December through the end of March. For details, see the Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side chapter (page 50) and Rocky Mountain National Park— West Side chapter (page 256). Snowshoeing guides based at mountain resorts—both Alpine and Nordic, as well as at many guest ranches that operate in winter—lead excursions on quiet trails within the lift-served ski area and cater to resort guests. Naturalist guides pass on their knowledge about winter ecology in the mountains and show clients how to identify animal tracks in the snow. Hiking and climbing guides have found a winter niche, customizing

Snowshoeing

Snowshoeing is so technically simple, all you have to do is decide to try it, and then go out and do so. This sport doesn’t involve much more than putting one foot in front of the other. “Learning” to snowshoe means getting used to having gear on your feet that basically flops up and down while you walk. Fifty paces on flat surface, and you’re a snowshoer. Fifteen minutes later, and you’ve got some experience under your belt. After an hour of practice and experimentation on a few inches of new snow and varied terrain, including uphill, downhill, as well as flats, and you’ve got some experience under your snowshoes. You can amble, stroll, stride, jog, or run on snowshoes. The preparation is as straightforward as the activity. Dress as you would for winter hiking or cross-country skiing. You’ll want warm, breathable layers that you can don or shed as body heat and weather dictate. Put on warm socks (wool, silk/wool blend, or fleece), waterproof footwear (Sorel-type boots, Gore-Tex hiking boots, or the new generation of footwear especially designed for snowshoeing), and a pair of gaiters. Snugly strap on a pair of lightweight snowshoes and take ski poles for stability and balance. Slather on sunscreen as the combination of sun and snow can bring more than just the rosy glow of the outdoors to your cheeks. Protect your precious eyes with UV-filtering sunglasses or goggles. Grab a daypack, water bottle, and snack, and off you go. Outdoor, hiking, and ski retail stores across Colorado rent snowshoes for a very modest amount of money, usually $10–$15 per day, which often can be applied to the purchase if you decide to buy a pair. Putting on snowshoes isn’t much more complicated than getting into a car and fastening the seatbelt, and someone at the rental or retail shop will even show you how to do it. Subsequent chapters of this book cover equipment, clothing, and technique in more detail, but here are the immediate basics of snowshoeing.

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Getting Started snowshoe tours for any level of fitness, from timid novices to veterans who want to learn about winter camping and mountaineering. Some offer avalanche safety courses. Winter Trails Day, held each winter at locations all over the snowbelt, provides newcomers with a free introduction to the sport via use of demo equipment and instruction, often in a festive atmosphere. When it debuted in 1997 with very little fanfare, more than 2,000 people showed up at community parks, nature centers, and public lands whose recreation trails are used for snowshoeing. Now Rocky Mountain National Park alone attracts that many. The two traditional Colorado venues are Echo Lake, at the foot of Mt. Evans, in January and Rocky Mountain National Park in mid-February. This schedule can change; go to www.wintertrails.org or keep your eyes open for Winter Trails Day promotional material alerting you to the exact time and location of the event.

Types of Trails

Snowshoeing is an end unto itself, or an easy way for skiers and snowboarders to access the backcountry. (Courtesy of Tubbs Snowshoes)

You can snowshoe whenever and wherever there is snow. In fact, many people pull out their snowshoes after a Front Range storm has carpeted city, county, and state parks in white. Still, the most reliable season-long snowshoeing in Colorado takes place in the high country—largely on public lands and primarily National Forest and National Park lands, where the concept of “multi-use trails” has taken hold. The Park Service has always been committed to recreation, and the Forest Service has steadily been going in that direction too, but the two agencies have different mandates as to permitted uses on the land they oversee. On National Park trails and on wilderness areas administered by the Forest Service, only snowshoers and cross-country skiers share the trails. On many other Forest Service routes, outside of wilderness areas, snowmobiles are also permitted on some wider routes—normally ones that are unplowed, unpaved roads that are wide enough to accommodate these motorized sleds. Rocky Mountain National Park marks the most popular winter trails with small orange diamonds affixed to trees above head height. The Forest Service uses orange diamonds on trails that are open to motorized recreation (i.e., snowmobiles) and blue diamonds only for non-motorized

THE BASICS

Trail Etiquette A major issue for both cross-country skiers and snowshoers is trail etiquette, especially in areas close to major population centers along the Front Range. Snowshoers and skiers share the same trails but not the same activity. After a snowstorm, the first users of a backcountry route break trail. When touring skiers are first, they set tracks in new snow—often at great effort, especially on uphills, expecting the reward of a fast, smooth downhill run on the return. They understandably get upset when snowshoers have stepped on their tracks, chopping them up and making for a less pleasurable downhill run. With the rise in the popularity of snowshoeing, along with a growing awareness of the different dynamics of each activity, it is my personal observation that the conflict has improved. Nonetheless, when newcomers to snowshoeing or ski touring are unaccustomed to each other’s sports, the differences between them can still sometimes cause problems—again, particularly on busy Front Range–accessible trails. By contrast, on the Western Slope, snowshoers, skiers, and snowmobilers typically seem more tolerant of each others’ forms of recreation—and are often grateful to anyone who has broken trail for them through deep snow. Leave No Trace, a national organization dedicated to promoting ethical use of the wilderness, is developing winter guidelines that will probably address trail etiquette issues. For more information on Leave No Trace, go to www.lnt.org. For specifics on trail courtesies, see the Technique chapter (page 26). At established cross-country centers, policies are more than simple courtesies; they are regulations. These centers set parallel, ski-width “classical tracks” that are mechanically etched into the snow for skiers to follow and snowshoers to stay off. These Nordic ski areas ask snowshoers to stay on the “skating lanes,” which are wide, trackless trails—or even next

Snowshoeing

(i.e., skis and snowshoes). In wilderness areas, summer trail signs are discrete designs in natural wood, sometimes buried in deep snow. Don’t look for colored trail designators in the wilderness, because you won’t find any. In places where the trees are so closely spaced that route-finding might be difficult, blazes (one smaller and one larger rectangle) are sometimes cut into tree bark. The Forest Service also marks roads where motorized travel is permitted with sturdy metal stakes indicating the road number. On some trails, you might also find miscellaneous wooden signs or other trail indicators along the way—perhaps an oldstyle official sign or a totally unofficial, but often useful, design. Snowshoeing-only trails at Nordic centers and dude ranches are sometimes marked with close-to-the-ground signs that include the logo of the snowshoe maker associated with that facility. Trails in state and many county parks are well marked. Each National Forest produces a sizable, four-color recreational map geared to summer but still useful for winter, and both federal agencies issue winter-use maps for selected areas and also provide current information on snow conditions and avalanche forecasts for lands in their jurisdictions. In addition, the Forest Service publishes single-trail information sheets that include basic information on individual routes. Most Forest Service ranger district offices, which are usually in towns near the forests but not in the forests, are open weekdays only in winter. They also offer free individual trail guides with simple trail descriptions and maps of popular routes. National Park Service visitors centers located close to park entrances are open seven days a week year-round. For a list of locations of government agencies and ranger district offices, see Appendix C. Many of Colorado’s state parks also offer reliable snowshoeing; see Appendix A.

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Getting Started to the skating lanes. Some Nordic ski areas have designated special snowshoeing trails, while others—ever fewer, to be sure—continue to prohibit snowshoeing entirely.

Equipment Basics The typical modern snowshoe consists of a lightweight aluminum frame with a platform made of a durable, forgiving fabric for flotation on the snow, a binding that affixes your foot to the snowshoe, and an under-boot mechanism that allows the foot to move in a natural, free-heel stride, so that your gait is close to your normal walking or running motion. When using a pair of snowshoes for the first time, take a few moments to adjust the binding or strapping system to your footwear of choice (see page 16) and learn how this buckle system works. The shop where you rent or buy will help you with this. Snowshoes have metal crampons (also called claws or talons) on the bottom for traction. See the Equipment chapter (page 14) for more on selecting snowshoes and accessories.

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Dress in layers and be prepared to shed or add layers as you heat up and cool down or if the weather changes abruptly, as it often does in Colorado’s high country. Moisturetransporting thermal underwear, windproof pants, an insulating layer of synthetic fleece or wool, and a windproof and water-repellent shell jacket are the basic components of a layering system. Some snowshoers like to add a vest, or use a vest instead of a long-sleeved pullover, sweater, or shirt as the insulating layer. A hat and a pair of warm gloves complete the basic outfit. If you are going for a short snowshoe walk at an established resort center, you can be casual with the number of layers and options to take along. However, if you are going out for several hours—particularly into the backcountry—never assume that the weather will be as good when you are out there as when you get out of your car. Being prepared for worse—often far worse—weather than at the beginning of your excursion isn’t just a good idea; it can save your life. For more on apparel, see the Clothing chapter (page 23).

Packing the Pack A daypack or waistpack isn’t “equipment” in the sense of snowshoes and poles, nor is it “clothing” in any sense even though you wear it. It’s not an optional accessory—it’s a necessity. The size of your pack depends on how much you’re carrying. For a short hike in a controlled situation, such as a cross-country or Alpine ski area, or on a guided tour of a few hours, a waistpack with an extra layer of clothing, sunscreen, and water will probably do. If you’re going out for several hours away from support services, especially at high elevations, prepare as you would for mountain hiking. Plan on toting a daypack stocked with extra layers of clothing, extra socks, water and food (snacks, lunch, and perhaps a couple of energy bars), plus basic emergency gear (a small first-aid kit, waterproof matches and/or flashlight, a pocket knife, a whistle for emergencies, chemically activated hand and foot warmers, and, of course, proper navigation aids). For more on the specifics of what you’ll need for a more lengthy snowshoeing excursion, see the Backcountry Cautions chapter (page 34)..

THE BASICS

When planning your first snowshoe outing, you might wonder how to select a trail to match your stamina and ability. As with any activity, experience and self-awareness are the best measures to determine how far you can go. If you haven’t spent much time in the backcountry or aren’t sure how much stamina you have at high elevations, in summer or winter, you can tap into the knowledge of someone who has. If you are new to winter walking or hiking, sign up for an introductory program at an outdoor store or recreation center, which often will include an indoor introduction followed by an excursion for the entire class. Another choice is to join a guided beginner tour led by a ranger or professional guide. Making your first snowshoe excursion at a crosscountry center with marked trails, facilities, and patrollers is not a bad idea, especially if you are not an experienced summer hiker. Plowing through the powder is exhilarating, and a pack with extra clothing is prudent. (Photo by Alan Becker, If you want to go on your own, courtesy of Aspen Chamber Resort Association) start with one of the easy routes in this book, or, if you are more ambitious, select an out-and-back trail so that you can turn around when you need to. Altitude, dry air, and the unaccustomed weight on your feet can affect you. Until you have some mileage under your snowshoes, be conservative in estimating your energy and limitations. If you are a strong hiker, mountain runner, or cross-country skier, you’ll have a better idea of your limitations. If you are an ardent summer hiker, you will probably know the impact of variations in terrain, weather, and other factors. For instance, you already know that you cannot make the same time or keep the same pace in the mountains as you do in town. Three-and-a-half to four miles an hour is considered an excellent walking pace on dry pavement. Two miles an hour on a trail with up to a 1,000-foot elevation gain is a respectable summer hiking pace. Colorado-based snowshoe racer and race organizer Tom Sobal believes that a fit snowshoer who is used to his or her equipment will go 25 percent slower than on bare ground “under the best conditions,” which is to say snow that is hard packed and fast. Add the element of soft snow, which is kind to your joints but cuts your speed, and your pace will be slower. In addition, breaking trail takes more time and requires far more energy than snowshoeing on a packed route.

Snowshoeing

How Far? How Fast?

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Getting Started The upshot of all these variables: Don’t be disappointed if you are not even close to covering your usual hiking distance or keeping to your customary pace on snowshoes, and, more important, plan your itinerary accordingly. Unless you are a runner, a 6- or 7-mile tour could easily take the better part of a day, especially in soft snow, wind, or on a route with a significant elevation gain. Also, remember that midwinter days are short, so you will probably start out later and lose light and heat far earlier than you would in summer. Even if you have some backcountry experience, when you are ready for your first snowshoe outing, plan to go in a group or with at least one other person, for both winter routefinding and winter speeds are different. Remember that a group’s pace is only as fast as its slowest member. Underestimating your snowshoeing pace is wiser than overestimating it until you’ve been out a few times and know how accurate your estimates are. In short, when selecting a backcountry trail, take into account your fitness and energy, as well as that of your companions. Then factor in trail length, elevation, snow conditions, and weather. If you plan on a loop trail, you are committed to the whole route once you have passed the halfway point. An out-and-back trail gives you the option of turning around whenever you wish, but remember that you have to double the distance to return to the trailhead. Snowshoeing is an individual, yet a very sociable, activity, not just for companionship but also for safety. Again, a guided hike is not a bad idea for your snowshoeing inaugural, especially if are going by yourself. Later, as you become more experienced, be sure to tell someone reliable of your plans if you do hike alone, and check in with him or her upon your safe return.

Technique Basics Snowshoeing technique is essentially as easy as walking. On flat ground, or on a slope that is mild to moderate, all you have to do is to put one foot in front of the other and go. The greatest adjustment you’ll have to make to your gait is to walk with your feet a bit wider apart than normal so that you don’t step on your own snowshoes or kick the frame of your forward foot as your back one passes it. If the snow is hard packed and sloping, pressing the talons firmly into the snow with each step will give you traction and prevent backsliding. Snowshoes will not keep you on top of soft snow, but they do provide enough flotation to prevent you from sinking in too deeply for comfort. In fresh powder, which is where snowshoes really shine, the surface will shift some and compress under your weight, and you’ll feel as if you were walking on feather-light sand, if you can imagine such a thing. When you are descending, lead with your heel (as if you are walking in street shoes on the flat) and keep your weight over your heels as much as possible. The snowshoes’ crampons provide traction, so if the snow is firm or the slope is steep, be sure that they are biting into the surface. You might slide a little with each descending step. If the snow is deep and the slope is steep (though not dangerously so, please), you might want to play at glissading. Take long, gliding strides—sort of a downhill lope—keeping the snowshoe toes up out of the snow. You will find this exhilarating. For hints on snowshoeing on more advanced terrain or in other conditions, see the Technique chapter.

THE BASICS Getting Started

Snowshoeing at any level is good for your body. It gets you outdoors in winter and burns calories with every step. At its most fundamental, this low-impact activity also boasts an injury rate so low that injuries are not even an issue. Spills tend to be gentle, and because every step and stride is different, muscles and joints are not even susceptible to the kind of overuse or repetitive-motion problems that plague participants in such other sports as running, tennis, and mogul skiing. In fact, as soon as suitable equipment became commonly available, serious runners discovered snowshoeing to be outstanding winter training for their summer sport. Even in its mellowest form, snowshoeing is great exercise and carries significant health benefits, and aggressive snowshoeing at altitude, in deep snow, or with speed provides a fabulous aerobic workout—and Colorado has nothing if not opportunities of high-altitude snowshoeing. In addition to the cardiovascular benefit, snowshoeing tones such muscles as the quads, hamstrings, and calf muscles. Snowshoe ascents also work the hip flexors and extensors. Adding poles increases the calorie burn and also helps work the shoulders, chest, and triceps. Different experts have calculated different calorie expenditure figures, and even if the basic parameters could be agreed on, individuals’ caloric burn depends on his/her weight, gender, degree of fitness, trail conditions, air temperature, and other factors. Two university studies—one by Indiana’s Ball State University and the other by the University of Vermont in Burlington—calculated calories per hour consumed while snowshoeing. According researchers, walking at 3 miles per hour on a flat, snow-free surface burns 335 calories an hour, while snowshoeing at just 2.4 miles per hour on snowshoes on a flat, packed trail burns 420 calories an hour—more calorie burn despite a slower speed. Add powder snow, put on a pack or a toddler in a backpack, or snowshoe on hilly terrain or a steady uphill, and the calorie burn increases. It gets even better for runners. Running at a racing speed of Running for fun and fitness is part of the scene at Aspen 7.5 miles per hour burns as much and elsewhere in Colorado. (Courtesy of Aspen Chamber 890 calories per hour. Resort Association)

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❑ ❑ ❑ ❑

Snowshoes Warm socks Boots Poles (optional)

❑ Base layer (polypropylene top, tights) ❑ Hat (headband optional) ❑ Insulating layer (fleece) ❑ Gloves ❑ Long-sleeved top (or vest) ❑ Neck gaiter ❑ Outer layer (waterproof, breathable jacket or shell) ❑ Gaiters Extras for the Backcountry

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❑ Navigational aid ❑ Bivouac sack, space blanket or emergency shelter ❑ Avalanche beacon ❑ Ice ax ❑ More spare clothing, food, and water ❑ Shovel ❑ Wire pocket saw ❑ Cell phone (for emergencies) ❑ Fire starter

Other Necessities for the Trail

❑ Pack ❑ First-aid kit ❑ Water (between 1 pint per hour and 2 quarts per outing, per person) ❑ Waterproof matches and/or lighter ❑ Pocket knife ❑ Food (including more than you think you’ll need, energy bars, and, on cold days, a Ther mos of hot tea or soup) ❑ Whistle ❑ Flashlight ❑ Extra socks ❑ Trail map ❑ Compass ❑ Sunglasses ❑ Watch ❑ Sunscreen ❑ Small single-use, chemically activated hand and toe heat packs

THE BASICS

Once you’ve outfitted yourself with gear and duds and have gone on a couple of group snowshoe hikes—perhaps even have played around on your snowshoes in a park near your home or taken a guided hike or two—you might want to get out and explore the backcountry on your own. If you live in Colorado, you probably have had some summer hiking experience when following an easy, well-trod trail. Still, you may wonder what clues you can use in winter to prevent you from getting lost when everything is white and even familiar territory looks different. Fortunately, others often will have blazed a trail for you, literally and figuratively. You will be able to follow the tracks of snowshoers and skiers who have preceded you. On well-traveled trails, even new snow does not usually obliterate established paths. However, on public lands, you can follow permanent trail markers, which are more reliable than someone else’s tracks. For a review of trail marking, see “Types of Trails” (on pages 6–7). Summer and winter trails may go to the same destinations, but they do not always follow precisely the same route. A summer trail might cross an area that is a winter avalanche hazard zone, or a winter trail might cross an area that in summer is a marsh or a streambed. The rest of Chapter 1 summarizes what you need to know to get started, but the chapters that follow summarize some of Colorado’s best snowshoeing trails. It’s time to put the pieces of the snowshoeing puzzle together and enjoy them too.

Backcountry SnowSports Alliance The Backcountry SnowSports Alliance has added to its core membership of backcountry skiers and snowboarders an increasing pool of snowshoeing members. As such, it has truly become the voice for practitioners of human-powered winter recreation on public lands. The not-for-profit organization advocates the creation, preservation, and management of these lands. As an advocate for non-motorized use of Forest Service and other public lands, it seeks to influence policies that are fair both to motorized and non-motorized recreationists. In addition to collecting data on backcountry use and appointing taskforces to articulate the BSA position in areas where the Forest Service is contemplating changes in suggested or regulated uses, the alliance is concerned with safety of backcountry travelers. Skills and safety courses for skiers and snowshoers, promotion of avalanche awareness, and other important issues are also part of the organization’s activities. Members receive quarterly newsletters and, more importantly, the knowledge that their input on issues of backcountry management is being heard by government agencies. For membership information, contact the BSA at P.O. Box 3067, Eldorado Springs, CO 80025; (303) 494-5266; www.backcountry alliance.org.

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Equipment SNOWSHOES, WATERPROOF BOOTS, and perhaps poles are all the gear you’ll need to become a snowshoer. Snowshoes come fully assembled with integral bindings that can be adjusted easily to fit your boot and traction devices underfoot. In addition to allpurpose snowshoes, specialized models are available for women, runners, small children, and hardy winter backpackers. Currently, most snowshoes range in price from under $100 to $250 per pair, and kids’ snowshoes are lower in price. Modern snowshoes are virtually indestructible, so you’ll probably have whatever you buy for a long time. Recognizing, however, that someone out there always manages to break the unbreakable, most models carry generous warranties. In addition to local retailers, who provide expertise and advice to anyone desiring it, catalog and online retailers carry snowshoes, with some specializing in closeouts that are long on value.

Traditional Snowshoe Designs Traditional snowshoes, those wood frame numbers with a webbing or lacing of rawhide or other material to provide flotation over the snow, have been around for a long time— centuries, in fact. A few purists still use the old-style shoes, especially for deep powder, but the majority of participants are now on modern, aluminum frame models. There’s a lot of terminology related to traditional snowshoes that you probably won’t need to know, unless you find yourself gravitating toward the shapes and materials that are snowshoeing’s heritage. Although you will most likely ultimately go with new designs, the following guide will clue you in to what others might be talking about and give you some insight into snowshoeing’s heritage and even how it relates to the shape of contemporary snowshoes. There are four basic designs of traditional snowshoe shapes, and some styles have two or more names. ■ The Yukon, Alaskan, or Pickerel snowshoe is oblong, usually between 4–5 feet long, and has turned-up toes and long tails for tracking and stability. These snowshoes were developed for use in deep, heavy snow, especially over non-mountainous, open terrain, yet they are also well suited to descending steep slopes when the snow is soft. ■ The Algonquin, beavertail, Maine, Michigan, or Huron snowshoe is a 1 or 2 feet shorter but a couple of inches wider than the Yukon design. These snowshoes also have long tails, but their toes are less radically turned up. They became most popular with Eastern snowshoers because they are good for hill ascents. ■ The Ojibwa snowshoe was designed in central Canada, where deep snow blankets wide-open tracts. This snowshoe is characterized by a pointed, turned-up toe and long tail. An Ojibwa snowshoe can be as small as 9 x 36 inches or as beefy as 12 inches wide by 50–60 inches long. While most wooden snowshoe frames are made of one curved piece of wood, the Ojibwa is made of two that are affixed together at both the heel and the toe. ■ Finally, the bearpaw snowshoe is a short, wide, and fairly flat oval suitable for dense underbrush and relatively even ground. Originally, bearpaws ranged from 14 x 36 inches to 12 x 30 inches, with the most common later being the modified model called the Green Mountain bearpaw, at about 10 x 36 inches. They are good for kicking steps in the snow during steep ascents. Some later modifications incorporated a tail design to help them track and a nose lift to clear deep snow, as well as size adjustments making them suitable for travel through underbrush and thickets.

THE BASICS

Modern Snowshoes and Bindings Modern snowshoes trace their roots back to the 1970s, with the development of the first aluminum frame models in the Pacific Northwest as an approach aid for winter mountaineering excursions. In fact, for a time they were called (by those who noticed them) Western snowshoes. They limped along as an oddity among oddities until they slowly began gathering fans, primarily in the running community where they were developed for winter training. Smaller than all but the most compact wood frame shoe, but with an assertively upturned toe and a solid, synthetic decking material in place of lacing or webbing, this type of early modern snowshoe was found to be lighter in weight, more maneuverable, and more durable than wood ones. The old toe cord at the snowshoe’s pivot point was replaced by a metal rod or durable synthetics, and easy-to-fit bindings of nylon and/or plastic and built-in crampons (also called claws, crampons, talons, or occasionally cleats) for traction have become standard over the years. Just as wooden snowshoes evolved, so have the newer metal ones, with choices of size, material, frame shape, binding design, and other components. By the end of the 1980s, the shift in design and materials was well under way, providing a launching platform for the rocketlike rise of snowshoeing in the 1990s. Snowshoes continue to change. There are now special models for women and cute fun-theme designs for children. Contemporary models with compact streamlined shapes enable the snowshoer to stand normally and stride as if not wearing the big shoes. Several makers produce women-specific models with a more defined front-to-back taper to accommodate women’s shorter stride and narrower bindings to fit narrower boots. Asymmetrical snowshoes come in mirror image right and left, like street shoes or ski boots. Symmetrical models differ only in the placement of the binding. The buckle is supposed to go on the outside of the foot, but that is not gospel, and some less flexible people find it easier to fasten the binding when it is on the inside. To adjust your snowshoes, first put on the boots you will wear for snowshoeing. Next, place the ball of your foot over the pivot point and then fit the toe or front part of the binding to your boot size. It might be some kind of heavy-duty nylon strapping system or a lace-up design—or perhaps straps, snap buckles, or a ratchet mechanism used to tighten

Snowshoeing

Webbing or lacing, originally of rawhide and later coated to protect the material, provided flotation and kept the snowshoer from sinking far into the snow. Whatever the webbing material, the result resembled the strings of a tennis racquet. There were about as many kinds of traditional bindings as there were traditional snowshoes. The most basic binding for these traditional models consisted of two straps, one over the toe or instep and one behind the heel. (Some companies still make classic wooden models, but modern snowshoers usually prefer them combined with contemporary bindings.) What made these snowshoe/binding combinations functional, and what is still important in modern bindings, is a design that enables the foot to move freely and naturally through the plane of the snowshoe while walking. A binding that pivoted around a toe cord and toe hole that made room for the boot to move through the plane of the snowshoe enabled the foot to flex fully during the stride. This became standard for traditional snowshoes, and eventually rudimentary underfoot traction devices were also incorporated, even though the crossbars and rawhide or other lacing automatically provided fairly good traction on all but ice.

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Equipment the binding around your forefoot. With most binding types, once the toe is adjusted, you can just slip your boot in and out without having to readjust each time. Fasten the binding by tightening the heel strap. Step-in bindings compatible with cross-country boots and specialized bindings designed for snowboarding boots are also available but have never developed a strong following. In addition to modern materials and easier fastening, today’s binding is hinged around a rod or other pivot that serves the same purpose as the old toe cord. The “free rotation” design allows the greatest range of motion, up to 90 degrees, Modern snowshoes are practically bulletproof. (Courtesy of Tubbs Snowshoes) and is popular for mountain snowshoeing up steep slopes. The “fixed” design limits rotation to 45 degrees, which keeps the snowshoe deck closer to the boot sole and offers more control. The “rotating” design is just that, a system that rotates freely and fully. You can also find special-purpose snowshoe/binding combinations with special features, such as a rigid plate that fits under the entire boot sole to provide additional stability, or built-in heel lifts for climbing steep slopes. There are even collapsible snowshoes for carrying and storing ease. Injection-molded plastic snowshoes, which first became popular in Europe, have some adherents in North America. Made of heavy-duty, lightweight plastics called copolymers, these snowshoes combine the frame and deck in one piece. Otherwise, they are similar to aluminum frame designs, with toe holes, bindings, and some sort of pivot system. One feature available with some of these shoes is a clip-on extender that provides additional carrying surface area and therefore better flotation in deep snow.

Size Matters Size is important, as it relates both to function and to weight. Today’s snowshoes come not only in different shapes but also in different sizes for different purposes. Though it is clear that, all other things being equal, a small shoe isn’t enough for deep powder (it will sink) and that a large shoe is excessive on packed terrain, experts say that what really matters is weight. I have heard various comparisons, ranging from “1 pound on the foot is like 3 pounds on the back” to “1 pound on the foot is like more than 5 pounds on the back,” so don’t buy more snowshoe than you’ll need for the conditions that you are most likely to encounter most of the time. The most appropriate snowshoe size for you is a combination of your body weight, the snow conditions you are likely to encounter, and the use you will make of them. The smallest snowshoes (about 6 x 16 or 17 inches) are designed for children. Slightly larger snowshoes, say about 7 or 8 x 21 inches, are best for mountain or trail running. This size also works for walking on packed snow, especially by lightweight women and youths. These models weigh about 2 pounds per pair. Medium-size snowshoes (about 8 x 24 or 9 x 25 inches), weighing between 2.5 and 4 pounds per pair, are the golden mean. These multipurpose snowshoes are suitable for most adults to use under most conditions, including recreational day hikes on packed snow, broken trail, settled snow, or fresh powder over a firm base.

THE BASICS

Feet First The single most common equipment question beginners ask is, “What should I wear on my feet?” Footwear, in this case the combination of boots and socks, needs to keep your feet warm and dry. Because snowshoe bindings are infinitely adjustable, you can wear pretty much what you want on your feet. For recreational snowshoeing, you can use traditional Sorel-type insulated and waterproof winter boots, waterproof hiking boots, water-resistant overshoes, or, in a pinch, even cross-country ski boots. When you get into the sport, you might consider the specialized snowshoe boots that have appeared on the market, which feature extra insulation and waterproofing. Many new snowshoers like to use the kind of footwear that they are accustomed to. In Colorado, where many people hike, waterproof hiking boots lined with Gore-Tex and/or treated with a waterproofing spray are a common choice. Winter hikers lined with Thinsulate or other insulation are an excellent choice (see Heat for the Feet sidebar). Runners, who need the flexibility of a shoe and don’t want the weight of a boot either, often just use their running shoes. They protect their feet from the cold and moisture using neoprene, either in socks worn under their shoes or in winter cycling booties worn over them. If you prefer not to invest in specialized footwear, you can follow the same strategy, and if you have crosscountry skiing boots that you’re fond of, you can seek out snowshoes with multisport bindings (see pages 15–16). Boots designed for snowshoeing are warm, waterproof, and well-fitting. They have been engineered for extra control on climbs, sidehill traverses, and steep ascents Sorels and similar waterproof insulated boots are a category of cold-weather footgear that many snowshoers have long found suitable. Sorel itself now offers a collection of lightweight boots, including models designed specifically for women, and a speed-lace design with a nylon storm collar to eliminate the need for gaiters, a full-bellows tongue and a comfort rating to –40° Fahrenheit—the first snowshoe-specific product from a company that was founded in 1907. Other types of winter boots, some derived from Eskimo mukluks, have also appeared on the scene. If companies are successful with snowshoe-friendly boots, others will be following.

Snowshoeing

The largest commonly available snowshoes (9 x 34 or 10 x 36 inches) are designed for a strong, large man carrying a heavy pack in deep snow, and may weigh 5 pounds or more. Specialized snowshoes complete the spectrum on each end: small children’s snowshoes on the low-performance end and models designed for mountaineering or expeditions on the high-performance end. Manufacturers publish catalogs describing their models, including dimensions, weight, and material specifications, as well as a chart for recommended sizes. Many also offer this information on their Web sites. For a list of snowshoe manufacturers and importers, see Appendix D (page 334).

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“Waterproof and insulated” is the theme that runs through the snowshoeing footwear scene. Boots can be waterproof either because the material, like rubber , is inherently so or because it is a coated or laminated nylon or leather . A Gore-Tex liner also waterproofs a boot. For some casual snowshoers, water -resistant boots are enough, and serious runners use just regular running shoes with neoprene socks, booties, or spats for insulation. Seal Skinz are waterproof socks made of a DuPont material. Other insulations that you might see are generics such as wool felt, wool fleece, acr ylic pile fleece, or polyester fleece, or such brand-name materials as Ther molite, Thinsulate, ThermoPlus, or Zylex. In addition to warm socks, insulated boots and/or spats, chemically activated heat packets sold in ski and spor ting-goods stores are great for snowshoers with chronically cold feet (usually women). Take them out of the cellophane wrapper , shake briefly, and insert them into the boot toes before putting the boots on. The heat packets emit war mth in the confined space and help to keep feet comfor table for hours.

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Ski poles are optional. Some snowshoers won’t leave home without them, while others wouldn’t be caught dead with them. This is a matter of personal taste and style. When you use ski poles, your arms swing naturally—right foot/left arm, left foot/right arm—just as if you were walking. When you are on a packed-snow trail, it feels like walking or crosscountry skiing. By planting your pole ahead of you at each stride, you add stability and, interestingly enough, increase the cardiovascular benefit and reduce fatigue. Personally, I prefer snowshoeing with poles because I find it easier to establish a rhythm while ascending rather than succumbing to the temptation to slow down. Another benefit of poles is that they can be used to knock off snow that clumps onto the crampons under certain conditions, usually on warm days when new snow has fallen on a layer of packed snow, or in spring when the snow is wet and soft. Just lift your foot, bang your pole against the frame, and the snow should fall off. If that doesn’t work, because the snow has iced up on the crampons, you can use the pole tip to chip off snow from the metal. For snowshoeing only on packed trails, especially at a Nordic area, regular cross-country poles are enough to help you maintain rhythm while you walk. If you’re planning to head into the backcountry, you’ll need a pair of heavy-duty mountaineering poles. Best are adjustable poles whose shafts can be lengthened or shortened with a simple twist based on the type of terrain (uphill, downhill, or flat) and the snow depth encountered on any hike. Backcountry poles usually have large-diameter baskets for deep powder, and many models can be coupled together to use as avalanche probes if needed. These benefits notwithstanding, most snowshoe racers have traditionally not used poles at all, but that too is changing and some runners now prefer them too.

THE BASICS

Gearheads unite! Although snowshoeing is a simple sport, special-purpose accessories have sprouted up all over to make snowshoeing easier, more fun, and more convenient. They include the following elements: ■ Add-on crampons that snap onto snowshoes to provide additional traction on ice, sidehills, or steep downhills. ■ A carrying bag designed to protect snowshoes during travel and other objects from being damaged by the talons. ■ Heel lifts to help heels remain relatively horizontal on steep climbs, therefore preventing the calf muscles from overstretching, fatiguing, and ultimately aching. They are made for extended Many snowshoe runners now use poles, a departure from the past. When picky Aspen climbs and are especially favored by runners use poles, it’s a sign that poles are “in.” upward-bound runners who train or (Photo by Alan Becker, courtesy of Aspen race up trails at Alpine ski areas, or Chamber Resort Association) gear-laden mountaineers who use snowshoes on steep approach routes for winter ascents. Made of a lightweight material, such as molded polyethylene, these are designed to be easily attached to and removed from snowshoes. ■ Multisport bindings, developed for cross-training. Such bindings accept three-pin, Nordic norm or hard-shell mountaineering boots for telemarkers, cross-country skiers, or winter expeditions, respectively, as well as snowboarding boots for those legions of backcountry riders who must hike uphill for their turns. The bindings that take cross-country footwear are used mostly in Nordic centers’ rental programs. ■ Snowboard packs, daypacks for backcountry riders that accommodate snowboards while snowshoeing uphill and snowshoes and poles while snowboarding downhill. ■ Spats, small gaiters made of neoprene or other synthetics that snug around the foot to keep the ankles dry and provide extra warmth. ■ Crampon covers, used for protection when storing or transporting snowshoes, even in a suitcase with clothing and other possessions. ■ A small can of silicon spray, to be spritzed onto the crampons to keep snow from clumping on them.

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Snowshoe Equipment Accessories

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Equipment Other Gear You’ll Need—Or Want As simple as snowshoeing is, there are all sorts of accessory gadgetry. Some appeals to the most ardent equipment addict, while some enhances the experience for even the most casual recreational snowshoer. Personal Protection If it’s sunny, as it often is, you’ll need to protect those body parts that are most likely not covered by clothing—the face and eyes, perhaps the ears, and the back of the neck. High SPF sunscreen and sunglasses (or ski goggles if it’s windy) affording ultraviolet protection are absolutely crucial in Colorado’s winter outdoor environment. Apply sunscreen liberally, and reapply it during your snowshoeing day, especially if you are perspiring. Waterproof sports sunscreen is best. For more on this topic, see the Backcountry Cautions chapter. Maps and Other Essential Navigation Aids Unless you are extremely familiar with your route as it appears in winter, or are with a guide or someone else you can trust to know the route, venturing out without a map is downright silly, and potentially treacherous. Routes may seem distinctive at first, but when you get into a crunch situation, especially in changing weather conditions and visibility, one trail through a conifer forest or aspen grove might look like another trail through similar trees—or if you are in a trackless forest, everything might look like everything else. Whether your “map” is as low-tech as a folded sheet of paper with a sketch map on it, or as high-tech as a topographical map loaded into a PDA, or even satellite-dependent GPS instruments, you need to know where you are and where you are going. If you are snowshoeing at a developed cross-country center, the area’s map shows When snowshoeing into the backcountry, carry a map those trails, and the patrol normally skis or and compass and know how to use them, even if you also have more high-tech navigational aids. snowmobiles each trail at day’s end to make (Photo by Ral Sandberg) sure that no one is left out on the network. Nevertheless, all Nordic centers provide free trail maps, and you should take one and consult it. The standard on which many commercial maps are based is the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) 7.5-Minute Topographic Map. These maps, which are 1:24,000 scale, depict and identify paved and unpaved roads, trails, rivers, streams, summits, ridges, towns, townsites, and mines—as well as showing forested and open areas. Each one includes contour lines to indicate elevations, compass direction and declination, and other pertinent information for route finding. Commercial mapmakers, notably Trails Illustrated (now owned by National Geographic) and several regional mapmakers have improved on the USGS maps,

THE BASICS

Optional Instruments Knowledgeable people have been making their way through remote areas for millennia without any electronic instruments, but in this electronically oriented time, some people just feel more comfortable, confident, and happy with instruments. The gizmos described below are not required, certainly not by casual recreational snowshoers, but they are nifty to have, especially for gadget fanatics, many of whom already own these for summer hiking, orienteering, geocaching, or just plain messing around. ■ Multifunction sport watches do more than tell time. Common features include an altimeter (and the ability to calculate vertical feet of your ascent or descent), stopwatch, thermometer, barometer, and more. This category of habit-forming instrument provides instant answers to, “How long have we been out?”, “How far have we come up?”, and other compelling questions that summer and winter hikers alike tend to ask each other. More precise than a compass/map/altimeter combination is a Global Positioning System (GPS) receiver, a device that allows one to locate their exact position anywhere on earth by receiving and interpreting satellite signals. ■ If you plan extensive backcountry travel in avalanche-prone or high-hazard areas— perhaps snowshoeing to high slopes to snowboard or telemark—an avalanche transmitter or transceiver (also called a beacon or tracker) can speed rescue and possibly save your life if you are buried in a slide. A transceiver both emits and receives signals and is preferable for groups going out independently, who are responsible for their own searches. A transmitter only sends signals and is often used for guided groups, where the guides, who are trained in such matters, do the searching and the clients are asked to stay out of the way. Most instruments transmit on one frequency but are able to receive on several. Check before you go out into potentially hazardous terrain, as compatibility between the transmitting and receiving instruments is critical. Many mountaineering stores rent these devices. ■ Finally, practically everyone today has a cell phone, and you can take yours on a snowshoe excursion to use in case you are lost or someone in your party is injured or caught in an avalanche. Cell phone coverage in the mountains, especially in tight valleys, is not 100 percent, but it is improving all the time. In an emergency, a call to 911 will be relayed to the appropriate county sheriff’s office, which is responsible for organizing search-and-rescue operations in Colorado. Cell phones can, however, give people who are less knowledgeable about the challenges and hazards of the backcountry a false sense of security. Feeling that help is just a phone call

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which are in public domain, by printing them on Tybec or other waterproof, rip-resistant material, adding colors, including more man-made landmarks and abundant names of roads, trails, towns, settlements, rivers, creeks, and other enhancements to help the user. Digital maps based on these same USGS maps can be loaded into your computer, from which you can print out a paper map of your intended route, or loaded into your PDA if you want to take it on the trail. See Optional Instruments below for more details. Even if you are into technology, an old-fashioned compass is virtually mandatory. Know how to adjust and use it in consort with your map. In addition, an altimeter is a useful navigation aid. Knowing how to use the two time-honored tools in concert with the appropriate map makes getting lost much less likely.

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Equipment away, snowshoers and other new backcountry users have blithely been traveling beyond their skills and strength. If you take a cell phone, save it for a genuine emergency. Gadgets should never take the place of preparation or good sense. Remember that they are battery-operated and should be kept warm in an inside pocket, as cold affects battery life and performance—especially alkaline batteries. The final caution about electronic aids in the backcountry is not to rely on them and always to have a backup. If you load a topo map into your PDA, tuck a real one into your pack. If you take a GPS, also take a compass and a map. More than anything, in the winter backcountry, you will want some redundancy to assure a safe return.

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This fit and well-equipped snowshoer is ready for anything a Colorado high-country winter can throw at him. (Courtesy of Tubbs Snowshoes)

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Layering 101 Such standbys as wool, down, and cotton, which were once state of the outdoor art, have long been replaced by high-tech, high-performance synthetic fabrics and insulations that can be combined into a clothing system designed to be tailored to the conditions of the moment. The purpose of a layering system is to keep you warm and dry. The principles behind staying warm are to wick perspiration away from your skin, insulate your body from the cold, and keep rain and snow from penetrating. Not counting your normal underwear, three layers make up the modern winter outerwear system. Numerous manufacturers utilize a variety of brand-name and private-label high-tech synthetic materials to accomplish this. When you are out snowshoeing, you can wear one, two, or all three layers in combinations that suit your energy expenditure, the air temperature, the wind, and any precipitation. The Fundamentals The first layer, the one worn next to the skin (also known as the base layer or the wicking layer), which is the long underwear layer. It usually consists of tops and bottoms of polypropylene or other miracle fiber, woven into underwear that actually draws perspiration vapor from your body and transports it away from the skin. Manufacturers frequently offer it in three weights: lightweight, medium weight, and heavy or expedition weight. Tops usually come in crew or zip-turtleneck styles. The latter design tends to be more practical, because you can zip it up at the neck when you’re cold and unzip to ventilate as you get warm. Instead of polypro bottoms, some snowshoers in Colorado’s generally dry climate prefer heavyweight stretch tights, stretch fleece tights, or heavyweight fleece pants, which, except in the coldest, blusteriest conditions, can be worn without windpants. The second or middle layer (usually called the midlayer or insulating layer) has two functions. It keeps transporting the moisture that the first layer has wicked away from your body, and it provides insulation against the cold. Synthetic polyester fleece, pioneered by Polartec,

Snowshoeing

SNOWSHOEING DEMANDS SPECIALTY EQUIPMENT (i.e., snowshoes) and appropriate footwear. There is no such thing as snowshoeing clothing—at least not yet. “Snowshoewear” has not entered the sports vocabulary in the mode of swimwear, skiwear, tenniswear, golfwear, or other “wears.” And it very well might never do so, because if you live in Colorado or vacation here and participate in outdoor activities in the mountains, you probably already own all the apparel you need. Snowshoeing is winter’s warmest sport. Your body steadily generates heat because you really chug on the uphills and move your legs and arms on the downhills. No gliding or sliding is involved, so you will produce a lot of body heat while you snowshoe. The faster your pace, the less warmly you need to dress for snowshoeing itself. In addition to the body heat you produce, which will mandate lighter clothing as you hike, you might have to adjust your layers as the day warms up or cools down. The cold morning when you started out can turn into a mild, sunny afternoon, or you might have to pass through a wind-whipped stretch. You can always take a garment off or unzip if you get too warm. But remember that you also need to be prepared for wind, the onset of foul weather, or, in the case of a backcountry excursion, the fact that you might be slower and not return as early or directly as you planned. There is one solution to all of these possibilities: layering. Layering has been refined to a high art by outdoor activewear manufacturers.

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Clothing is the midlayer of choice because it is comfortable, warm, inexpensive, easy to care for, and quickdrying, yet retains its insulating properties even when it is wet. Like the polypro base layer, fleece is also produced in different weights. Long-sleeved and vest styles are available in a variety of zip-front and pullover styles. If you are environmentally concerned, note that some fleece brands are made of recycled materials. You can wear one midlayer garment, two, or none. And, as noted above, stretch or heavyweight fleece pants are also suitable for snowshoeing. The top shell or outer layer must permit vapor to vent away Dressing in warm, water- and wind-repellent layers and from your skin, yet protect you carrying spare clothing will keep you comfortable on the trail. (Courtesy of Tubbs Snowshoes) from wind, rain, and snow. GoreTex was the first of the so-called waterproof, breathable fabrics, and now many more are on the market. The most advanced of these fabrics are the softshells, which are a new generation of water-resistant, windproof, and breathable fabrications that retain a soft feel, are lightweight, and are easy to scrunch into a daypack. (If the technology interests you, the process works inside the weave, encapsulating each fiber with an ultrathin polymer coating.) Keeping your torso, especially your upper body, warm and protected to the wind is a priority in the winter backcountry. Uninsulated shell windpants to be pulled over tights of whatever material are a good idea for deep winter hikes or high elevations. Equally as important as the fabric is the finishing of the garment. If you are going out in heavy winter weather, look for such features as sealed seams, an integrated hood, underarm zippers for ventilation, and reinforcement in such high-wear areas as the shoulders, where the pack straps can rub against the garment. If you keep to a slow and leisurely pace with frequent stops, that outer layer should be fairly substantial. If you are a runner and will be sustaining a high level of physical exertion, a lightweight shell will do. In a nutshell, the most versatile and functional outfit for most snowshoers is a polypro first layer, a fleece midlayer, and a waterproof, breathable shell jacket on top and stretch fleece tights and wind- and waterproof shell on the bottom. That shell pant is an important garment, because some snowshoes tend to kick snow up behind you. If you aren’t wearing element-fighting pants, you’ll find yourself with snow-covered thighs and backside. Fleece, which attracts snow, doesn’t make a good material for snowshoeing pants despite its other excellent qualities.

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The Extras Other garments, though not essential to “Layering 101,” are versatile and nice to have. If you select a long-sleeved insulating top as a base layer, and especially if your own body thermostat runs high or if you are snowshoeing in a relatively temperate climate, consider a vest. It will keep your torso warm and offers a great deal of mobility to your arms, whether you are walking with poles or running and pumping your arms aggressively. Vests are available in fleece or nylon or other synthetic material, insulated with down or some sort of fiberfill. They can be used on top of the middle layer on a clement day or between the midlayer and the outer layer when it’s really cold. Many active outerwear manufacturers offer “systems” that consist of a jacket—that is, the third or outer layer—with a zip-in vest. Depending on the temperature, wind, and activity level, these two components can be worn together or separately. Another brand-name fleece item, called Windstopper, consists of a fleece bonded with a material that offers the warmth of fleece and yet blocks the wind.

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Necessary Accessories A hat is essential in the Colorado winter because some 40 percent of body heat is lost from the head. Everyone has a favorite style: a traditional ski hat or toque for most conditions, a balaclava with ear protection and under-chin ties for very cold weather, or a baseball cap or other brimmed headgear to shade the eyes and face on warm, sunny days. Toques and balaclavas are available in fleece, wool, or synthetics, and in many colors and patterns. A headband is a nice, lightweight accessory to tuck into your pack for warm days when a little ear protection is all you need. Like hats, gloves are made of various materials and come in different weights to meet various weather conditions. Lightweight cross-country gloves or fleece gloves are fine for warm days; heavy-duty insulated expedition mitts are necessary to prevent frosty fingertips when it’s cold. Glove liners or overmitts can add an additional layer of necessary warmth and protection, and one company now makes simple stretch tubes that slide over the wrists to protect that vulnerable spot between jacket cuffs and glove tops—especially useful for long-limbed snowshoers, whose jacket sleeves never seem quite long enough. Experienced snowshoers know that gaiters are useful. There are two kinds: the classic backcountry style of Gore-Tex or other heavy-duty fabric that fasten over your pant legs and boot tops to keep powder snow from seeping down to your ankles and feet, and the tubular version of stretch fleece or knit that keeps snow and wind from blowing down your neck. The former are called simply “gaiters” and are generally available in outdoor stores. They come in two lengths—one that reaches just below the knee and is suitable for deep snow, and one that reaches just above the ankle and keeps snow out of your boot tops. They are neither an equipment accessory nor an article of clothing, but combine characteristics of both. The second type is known as a “neck gaiter” and is commonly available in ski shops. Although sunglasses with ultraviolet protection, water bottles or hydration systems, sunscreen, and a small pack are not really clothing accessories, they are truly necessities, so I take every opportunity to mention them.

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Technique Snowshoeing the Soft … Snowshoes really shine in fresh powder, but don’t expect to walk solidly on the surface. Snowshoes are not life vests for the feet. Even though the deck serves as a platform to provide flotation, you will sink as the snow surface shifts and the powder compresses under your weight—but snowshoes keep the sinking to a minimum. The softer the snow, the more you’ll sink, but you will never find yourself crotch-deep in powder as you would if you were floundering around without snowshoes. Once you get used to drifting along in the deep, it is a fine feeling. You’ll have the sense of walking on feather-light sand, if you can imagine such a thing. When the snow is soft and deep, you can minimize sinking and maximize flotation by a motion that snowshoers call “stomping.” Place your foot firmly on the snow surface and pause for a moment to compact it before putting your full weight on it. Other techniques for deep powder are more fun. You can either lift the front of your snowshoe out of the snow or submarine it under the snow. If you lift, the toe pivot system will cause the snowshoe’s deck to slant backward and the loose fluff will slide off the back. You might also find it easier to tunnel or submarine your snowshoes through the snow. The snowshoes will stay fairly level, though you won’t see them on the surface. Sometimes when you look down as you walk like this, you will have the amusing sense of watching two gophers preceding your own feet. Breaking trail takes more energy than following in someone else’s wake. One of the reasons beginning snowshoers enjoy guided hikes is that the guide is always in front, breaking trail and sparing clients this energy-sapping chore. However, when you are hiking in a group and the snow is soft, the custom is for everyone to take a turn breaking trail and to follow the leader in single file. When you are leading, remember to stay off any cross-country tracks—and when you are following, remind the leader to do the same if he or she strays. If there are no other tracks, make yours along the side of the trail, so that any skiers who follow will have ample room to lay clean tracks too. (The other side of the equation is that skiers who get to trails with new powder first should make their tracks on one side of the trail so that snowshoers have room.) During spring, snowshoeing in corn snow, another form of soft snow, is a common occurrence. A product of the late-winter, early-spring thaw-freeze cycle, snow consolidates into tiny spheres that, when weighted, act like mini-ball bearings and slough away from each other. If you get into deep corn, perhaps on an untracked stretch of a wooded, south-facing hillside, no amount of stomping will consolidate the wet corn snow. It is not uncommon to sink down as if you had no snowshoes on your feet at all. To add the proverbial insult to injury, your leg plunges deep into the snow, and the sidewalls of the impression you have made will probably cave in, burying your foot and snowshoe in heavy, wet corn. If you’re like me, you’ll probably fall over and try to dig the snowshoe out by excavating it until you can grab onto the aluminum frame and maneuver somehow to pull it out of the snow. It’s tiring work! Best bet in those conditions is to stay on trail, where a season’s worth of ski-touring and snowshoeing (and, in some cases, snowmobile) traffic has compacted the snow so that it doesn’t corn up so severely. One of the wonderful ironies about the first steps of snowshoeing is that it takes practically as long to string the descriptive words together and imprint them in your mind as it does simply to try the sport. The trial is easy and the errors are few. Calling this section “Instruction” would be an exaggeration, yet a few tips are appropriate. The tips that follow

THE BASICS

The First Steps Basic snowshoeing is winter’s answer to walking or light hiking. The easiest way to get started is to find a level patch of ground or a flat trail and simply begin to move forward. Because snowshoes are bigger than hiking boots, the main accommodation to make is to adjust your gait to the difference in size—especially with symmetrical snowshoes. To get the feeling of the snowshoes, simply start to walk naturally and rhythmically. As you do, you might discover that you need to clear the leg, the foot, and the snowshoe that is on the ground as you move your other foot forward. Today’s narrow snowshoes enable you to do this naturally, and tapered or asymmetrical designs make it easier still. If your own body type of stride is such that you still have a problem, try lengthening your stride and, if you need to, widen your stance a little until you move along comfortably. If you hear and feel the frames clunking together as you put one foot in front of the other, you’ll know that your feet are too close together. Tweaking your natural movements to clear up this little glitch does not take long. Simply widen your stance a little more and move your “passing” foot Breaking trail on Richmond Ridge, a trail with a view forward in a slight arc to clear the “stand- high above Aspen, this high-stepping snowshoer powers through the powder. Aspen is a real hotbed ing” foot. Soon, you’ll no longer hear or of snowshoeing for fitness and competition. feel one shoe frame hitting against the (Courtesy of Aspen Chamber Resort Association) other. You may initially feel as if you are waddling, but that sensation will pass quickly and the rhythm and motion of snowshoeing will soon come easily. Swing your arms naturally—right foot/left arm, left foot/right arm—just as if you were walking. Most recreational snowshoers now use ski poles for balance and stability when walking or hiking—and even some runners like to do so, especially for long training runs on unpredictable terrain (see page 18 for an extended discussion on poles). Using poles makes snowshoeing resemble cross-country skiing, minus the glide. Also, think of snowshoes as vehicles with several forward gears (strolling, a determined hiking pace or running) but no reverse gear. In other words, snowshoes are designed to enable you to move forward. That’s about all the technique you’ll need on packed trails and well-settled snow. Even though snowshoeing comes easily, even to newcomers to the sport, remember that your energy expenditure is greater than when you walk on dry ground. The positive side of this is that you get stronger and fitter and use more calories with every outing. The downside is that you cannot cover as much distance and you may tire more quickly. The extra energy goes to having the weight of winter boots, gaiters, and snowshoes on your feet. Other factors

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are suitable for modern aluminum-frame snowshoes. Traditional wood frame models call for specific techniques for special conditions, which are detailed in several excellent technical books now on the market (see Appendix B, page 329). Once you are comfortable on your snowshoes, follow your inclination and your heart, and use them for your own purposes.

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Technique affecting your energy use include your own weight, the depth of the snow, and the size of snowshoes you are using.

… and the Steep The preferred technique for climbing in soft snow is a little like “stomping” up an incline. First, kick the front of the snowshoe horizontally into snow to compact it into a “step” with each step you take and then weight the snowshoe. When you are ascending a steep slope this way, you climb up a snowy “staircase” of steplike platforms that you build as you go along. The major adjustment you have to make while climbing is to lengthen your step so that you are putting each snowshoe down on new snow. If the slope is really steep, you might even have to lift your knee quite high, even raising your foot so that the snowshoe’s tip points up. If your steps are too small, each indentation that you have already made in the snow will undermine the next step above it. Before you get too concerned about this, remember that the routes described in this book normally are not steep enough to require such step building, though you may use it for off-trail exploration. Another technique for ascending steep, untracked slopes is to switchback. Begin angling up an incline, letting the crampons bite into the snow to prevent backsliding and using the stomping technique if the snow is soft. Periodically make a wide turn to change direction to keep from straying too far off your intended route. Snowshoes are not intended for traversing slopes. Unlike metal-edged skis, which are designed to grip when the user moves across a steep slope, snowshoe “edges” aren’t edges but rounded tubes. In addition, the heel-free bindings that make them so easy to go forward on tend to contort when the side of the snowshoe is pressured. If you are trail hiking, the technique described below is not a skill you’ll use often, because marked trails don’t normally traverse a slope. If you’re bushwhacking in the backcountry, you may find it useful under some circumstances. First and foremost, never cross a steep slope in avalanche country. For those times when it is necessary to traverse a slope, snowshoers have developed a technique that resembles the same principle as climbing up a steep incline with soft snow. As you traverse, kick the uphill edge of the snowshoe into the snow against the slope to create a platform that is horizontal or nearly so. Because snowshoes are designed for going up and down hills, you have to adjust your technique somewhat to cross a hill. For stability, you must pressure your snowshoes to engage the claws and shift your weight aggressively onto the uphill side to edge the side of the snowshoe frame into the snow. When descending a steep hill, bend your knees a little, lead with your heels, and shift your weight back slightly to ride the back section of the snowshoes on the downhill. It won’t be a steady slide like skiing, but you will feel some slippage with each step, especially in soft snow. The metal heel crampons underfoot will help you maintain control. Although it may seem instinctive to do so on the steeps, avoid the temptation to lean back into the hill. You’ll also find poles especially useful, both in maintaining your balance and to provide a sense of security as you descend.

THE BASICS Technique

Backcountry Ethics Avoiding ski tracks is good trail etiquette. In the great scheme of things, however, it is ephemeral, and since tromped-on ski tracks heal with the next snowfall or become obliterated from increased use by other skiers, snowshoers, and dogs, it is trivial. More important and enduring is to adopt practices that do not damage the natural or cultural heritage of the backcountry. Leave No Trace (www.lnt.org), a nationwide campaign for wise and respectful use of the backcountry, has developed ethics guidelines. They reflect common sense and practices that should be self-evident, but reviewing them never hurts. First, if you pack it in, pack it out. That means don’t litter. Take all food wrappers, tissues, banana and orange peels, apple cores, and other refuse with you and dispose of this trash properly. Birds or small animals will snap up crumbs that you might drop, but do not intentionally leave larger amounts of food for animals. It is not a kindness to habituate wildlife to “people food.” A plastic bag makes a good receptacle for all trash. Second, do not deface, destroy, or damage trees or other flora, or structures, whether historic or still in use. You may think it clever or romantic to carve your initials somewhere, but this backcountry graffiti can be harmful to trees and disrespectful to property owners. Similarly, be aware of and respectful of crossing private property and avoid doing so if “no trespassing” signs are posted. Third, make use of any available toilet facilities before you hit the trail. If you need to relieve yourself during the hike, do so in an unobtrusive, off-trail spot that is at least 100 yards from a stream or lake. Cover waste with snow, and burn or pack out toilet tissue. (A small plastic zip-up bag is useful to have along for this.)

The “right way.”

The “wrong way.” (Photos by Ral Sandberg)

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This book focuses on easy to moderate trails, but if you get into serious backcountry snowshoeing, you’ll begin to learn or develop maneuvers for handling very steep ascents and descents, major traverses, and different snow conditions. Check Appendix B (page 329) for books that cover advanced techniques, or sign up for a backcountry course and learn these advanced techniques correctly.

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Often, the issue comes down to awareness about trail etiquette, usually on the part of new snowshoers who are not also skiers. If you are sharing a snowmobile trail, it is prudent to yield to sleds. Following are the basic winter trail manners, regarding sharing trails with other users and general use of the backcountr y.

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Cross-country skiers have been plying Colorado’s trails for years, and some of them tend to view the hordes of snowshoers who have joined them with shock, dismay , and anger. Some skiers simply don’t want to share, feeling the trails are their own private places, while others are only put off by what they view as snowshoers’ lack of consideration when they walk on carefully laid ski tracks. In fact, the biggest single issue skiers have with snowshoers is trampled ski tracks.

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to leave room for skiers. (Savvy skiers are also lear ning to put their tracks on the side to leave room for snowshoers.) If you are snowshoeing in a group, don’ t spread yourselves across the entire trail, but leave a generous lane for skiers. ■ If you see a set of ski tracks etched in the snow , don’t step on them. Walk alongside them. ■ If your dog is joining you on a snowshoe hike, keep it leashed or under reliable voice command. Make sure that it doesn’ t harass wildlife or pester skiers or other snowshoers. ■ Yield to faster skiers or snowshoers who are coming up behind you on flat trails. On hilly trails, it is a matter of safety as well as cour tesy to yield to downhillbound ski traffic. Skiers do move quickly. ■ Step quickly to the side of the trail if someone behind you yells “T rack!” If you are the speedster, remember that “Track!” is the commonly accepted aler t on the trail. ■ Step off the trail, or to the side of a wide road, when taking a break. Don’ t block traffic with your body or your poles. ■ When making a pit stop, use an outhouse if one is accessible. (Facilities are available on some busy trailheads, and some are often left unlocked at campgrounds that are closed in winter.) If none is available, make your stop off-trail, but also well away from streambeds. Kick new snow over the yellow snow you have created. Burn used toilet tissue or carr y a small sealable plastic bag and pack it out with you. ■ Obey trail signs and policies regarding dogs (their yellow snow and, especially , their droppings are particularly unpleasant on trails). ■ Obey directional signs, whenever they exist, such as on some loop trails. ■ Respect private property, which often adjoins public access routes.

THE BASICS Technique

Snowshoeing, perhaps the ultimate winter activity for families, can begin when (or even before) a baby is born. It is a casual, low-cost diversion that gets everyone out into the fresh air and sunshine. Snowshoes’ stability makes them a fine way for pregnant women to get some safe exercise, and after the baby is born, snowshoeing is great for new parents. On mild, wind-free days, outdoorsy parents bundle up their babies, slather sunscreen on their little faces, tuck them into a Snuggly or a baby backpack, and head off for a modest snowshoe walk. The gentle motion of parental snowshoeing lulls many a baby to sleep, and a fairly short hike means parents can be back at the trailhead before the baby is hungry. Preschoolers love to play in the snow, and age-appropriate snowplay and snowshoeing activities are fun for all. Several snowshoe companies make small models designed for youngsters. Compared with even the smallest adult models, child-size snowshoes look tiny and insubstantial, but remember that a lightweight child doesn’t need a large snowshoe for flotation. Rugged plastic snowshoes are also fine for children playing in the snow and walking short distances. The smallest snowshoes are colorful plastic ovals that mimic old snowshoe webbing or animal paws, but without metal crampons to cause injury when youngsters are rolling around in the snow. Older children use snowshoes that are smaller, lighter versions of adult shoes. In selecting kids’ snowshoes, the priority should be finding easy-to-buckle (and unbuckle) bindings—though your little one might be more interested in the color of the plastic or the shape of the decking. Adjust the bindings to your child’s boot at home, so that you aren’t trying to figure out which way the strap fits into the buckle when you’re ready to go out on the trail. If possible, do a practice round. It’s better, but not mandatory for there to be snow on the ground. Go outside, fit the bindings to the boots, and let your child walk around in the yard to get the feel of the gear. Closed-for-the-season public campgrounds and roadside picnic areas are great sites for family snowshoeing. Even though the main site is unplowed, highway crews usually clear a parking pullout. With flat, level ground and wide, safe spaces between campsites and picnic tables, these venues are ideal. Plan on a short walk with plenty of time for snowplay, such as making snow angels, building a snowman, or going sledding. In fact, savvy parents take a sled along not just for sliding down a small hill somewhere along the way, but for towing a tired child back to the trailhead. In addition to snowshoes, snow wear, and snacks, remember to take extra mittens and hats because the ones they started out with are sure to get wet or lost. School-age children can start with a moderate hike of a mile or so, with time to stop, play, and explore. Many snowshoeing festivals and races include family fun components of short distances and with fun prizes for every youngster who participates. A young snowshoer is dressed for

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a winter outing. (Courtesy of Tubbs Snowshoes)

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Technique Canine Companions Dog owners concur that nothing adds to a backcountry experience like the companionship of their canine pets. In addition to energy and enthusiasm, a dog can provide an unsurpassed level of loyalty and backcountry security. Your canine companion will stay with you if you get tired and can be a real comfort when the going gets tough or the weather gets nasty. When you plan your snowshoeing itinerary with your dog, it is important to check the regulations for the route you plan. Colorado’s National Parks and Preserves prohibit dogs on trails. Dogs are permitted on most U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management lands, including wilderness areas, only excluding some designated national recreation areas during all or most of the winter season. State Parks all have their own regulations. Most parks permit dogs but require them to be on a leash that is no longer than 6 feet, but some restrict pets in certain areas, usually for wildlife issues. Leash laws are another variable, with regulations set by counties. In some jurisdictions, dogs may be unleashed as long as they are under voice command, while in others, they are supposed to be leashed. Regardless of how you control your dog, be sure to pick up any waste the dog deposits on the trail. Even if it’s snowing hard and you think that the dog’s leavings will soon be covered, imagine how you would feel stepping in it. Off-trail and out-of-sight piles will generally decompose naturally before they gross out others and will disappear during snowmelt. If your dog accompanies you on summer hikes, it will likely be a good candidate for snowshoeing too. But do consider that big, thick-coated dogs whose ancestors came from northerly climes are far more suited to the winter wilderness than short-haired breeds or dogs with small, dainty paws. Huskies, malamutes, and other long-haired dogs bred to work in cold weather are fabulous on the trail. Labs, retrievers, and German shepherds are large enough and sturdy enough for winter hikes, but you do need to monitor their paws to make sure that ice balls don’t build up between their paw pads. Ice can cut a dog’s feet and even some hard, abrasive snow can cause tiny fissures in pads. Some people spray Pam or other vegetable anti-stick cooking spray directly on the dog’s paws. Others prefer a relatively new product called Musher’s Secret Wax, a soft, fast-drying, wax-based cream that is applied to the dog’s pads, between its toes and pads, and between its toes to form a semi-permeable shield that sheds snow, protects paws, and acts like an invisible boot. Speaking of boots, you can buy special doggie booties at pet stores and dog boutiques. Bring enough dry treats or kibbles to keep your dog energized throughout the hike, and just as I hope that you courteously avoid snowshoeing over cross-country tracks, try to keep your dog off them too.

Fitness Factors You may wonder how anything as tranquil as snowshoeing can help your physical conditioning, but it does. This low-tech, low-impact activity is also an endurance sport that provides steady muscle motion and cardiovascular conditioning, burning 25 percent more calories than simply walking on firm ground over the same distance and at the same speed. Snowshoeing will not feel strenuous to the well-conditioned hiker or runner, and it provides a fitness benefit to everyone. Insulated boots and hiking boots plus even the lightest snowshoes add weight beyond running shoes or other common athletic footwear, so every step takes a little more energy and goes a little further toward building muscle than does walking on dry ground.

THE BASICS Technique

Running on Snowshoes To add a really dynamite fitness element, you can snowshoe along a trail or even up a mountain. Because it is an endurance activity, snowshoeing is excellent exercise, even up long, novice trails. By planting your pole ahead of you at each stride, you not only add stability but also increase the sport’s inherent cardiovascular benefit and reduce fatigue. Add jogging or running into the mix, and you’ve got yourself a gonzo workout. Snowshoeing can be a great cross-training tool or an end unto itself. Some people want a way to stay in shape during the winter, in preparation for the warm-weather running season. (Others run in summer to keep fit for winter.) Snowshoe races, for serious competitors and recreational runners alike, dot Colorado’s winter calendar and are included in each chapter, and fitness trainers affiliated with clubs and recreation centers all over the state A happy snowshoer running in perfect form. offer snowshoe workouts. Whichever is (Courtesy of Aspen Chamber Resort Association) the chicken and whichever is the egg, running on snowshoes—especially uphill at Colorado’s elevations—is just about as aerobic as a sport can get. Running uphill on snowshoes has taken on a cult status in some ski resorts. You often see snowshoers charging up steep ski slopes in the morning, before the lifts are operating. Most Colorado ski areas are built on public U.S. Forest Service land. The lift ticket is just that: proof of payment for riding the lifts, not an admission charge to be on the hill. Therefore, snowshoers are technically permitted on the slopes. Some ski areas wisely discourage snowshoers during lift operation hours or funnel them to specific trails in the interest of safety, but others welcome them to the ski runs at any time. Good sense dictates that you ask where the safest uphill snowshoeing is and then stay along the edge of any trail that you are sharing with downhill skiers and snowboarders.

Snowshoeing

Depending on your body weight, you can burn 350 to 550 calories per hour if you just walk on snowshoes at a good clip on packed snow and flat terrain. Tote a toddler or carry a heavy pack, and you will burn additional calories too. Use poles and add hills, and your caloric expenditure can be 670 to 1,000 calories per hour. During aggressive ascents up a steep powder slope or running an 8-minute mile, the calorie expenditure can be 700 to 1,000 calories an hour (see Running on Snowshoes below).

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The backcountry is beguiling in its beauty but deceptive in its hazards. Ski areas patrol and control their terrain, but hazards exist out of bounds. (Courtesy of Aspen Chamber Resort Association)

THIS BOOK IS ABOUT THE SHEER JOY, the health benefits, and the thrill of a

fast-growing winter outdoor activity. But sometimes the winter environment can become a tad too thrilling, especially in Colorado, where high altitude and fickle weather are part of mountain reality. Though most snowshoers derive pleasure without pain from this sport, I would be remiss not to remind you of the unpredictability and hazards of winter in the outdoors. This chapter is not intended to make you nervous or imply that every snowshoe excursion is perilous (most, by far, are not), but winter in the high country should not be trivialized. The best preparations are knowledge and awareness, and many of the precautions snowshoers and other winter outdoor recreationists should take are quite simple. At the very least, heeding these cautions can minimize discomfort; at the most, it can save a life. Elements common to the Colorado outdoor experience, regardless of the time of year, include being conscious of the altitude, drinking enough water to avoid dehydration, and carrying a map and other aids to orient yourself—and knowing how to use them. You’re unlikely to get lost at a ski-touring center or on a well-traveled, well-marked route system on public land, but it’s always a good idea to be able to use a map, altimeter, and compass. In the backcountry, this “good idea” is imperative. Even if you are using a GPS, remember that such a device can tell you where you are but not where you are going, so it is important to carry at least a good map. Other potential problems are seasonal. Winter in the outdoors can mean cold, and you need to know something about frostbite prevention. Because avalanches are a potential hazard in the winter backcountry, prudent snowshoers need to learn to avoid slide situations and still know what to do if they or their companions are caught.

THE BASICS

Colorado’s soaring mountains, wedged between the high plains in the east and canyon country to the west, give it the highest average elevation of any of the 50 states. Colorado residents, especially those who live in mountain communities, are acclimatized, but flatlanders sometimes suffer some degree of problem. Altitude sickness can strike at elevations of 8,000 feet or higher, where air pressure is lower and there is less oxygen than close to sea level. Medical experts estimate that as many as 25 percent of out-of-state visitors suffer at least mild symptoms of altitude sickness, including headaches, sleeplessness, dizziness, and nausea. Even Front Range citizens are not immune, although they can generally go higher before symptoms hit. Altitude sickness is unrelated to age or physical condition. Many people think that they are coming down with a cold, or perhaps have jet lag or a hangover. Symptoms usually disappear after three to five days, when the body has acclimatized, but if you are visiting, that can take a big chunk out of the average trip. Preventative measures include drinking plenty of water, avoiding alcohol and cutting down on caffeine, and, if possible, spending a night or two at a relatively lower elevation (e.g., Denver, Colorado Springs, Fort Collins, Boulder, Grand Junction) before heading for the high country. The most strident forms of altitude sickness are the stuff of high Himalayan or arduous Andean treks. Cerebral edema (swelling of the brain) and pulmonary edema (fluid filling the lungs), the most severe forms of mountain sickness, can be fatal. Fortunately, they are relatively rare conditions, especially at the elevations common for snowshoeing excursions in Colorado.

Defense Against Dehydration Dehydration can cause fatigue, headaches, nausea, and muscle cramps. This is the simplest of all dangerous conditions to avoid. There are three ways to combat dehydration: drink, drink, drink. Water is the prevention, and water is the cure. You can take part of that replenishment as hot herbal tea, fruit juice, and sports drinks, which will not only keep you hydrated but will replenish your mineral stores. Avoid coffee, caffeinated tea, cola, and other caffeine-laced soft drinks and alcohol, which are diuretics that hasten fluid loss. If you are hiking on a hot summer day, you may feel thirsty, and if you hike a lot, you know that you should be drinking before thirst sets in. Your body might give you that familiar parched signal when snowshoeing, but exercising in the cold, dry outdoors also causes water loss from perspiration and respiration. The bottom line is to drink before you start snowshoeing, drink frequently during your snowshoe hike, and rehydrate afterward. A water bottle in a holster attached to the waist belt of your pack is convenient because you can just reach for it frequently as you hike, and a Camelbak or other hydration system is even better. A hydration system resembles a small, narrow backpack, lumbar pack, or an insert into a day pack with a bladder to hold water, connected to a flexible tube and a mouthpiece with a bite valve so that you can sip as you snowshoe. For winter use, you’ll need to keep your water from freezing. If you use a hydration system, be sure to winterize yours with an insulated cover to hold the bladder and a neoprene tube cover and rubber cover for the bite valve. You don’t have to create your own insulation system. Outdoor stores carry a variety of products of neoprene or other material, including special Camelbaks, holsters, water bottle covers, and bottles for winter

Snowshoeing

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Backcountry Cautions use, as well as insulating sleeves for the tube of your hydration system. You can also keep water from freezing quickly by putting your water bottle into the holster upside down— with the top on tight, of course. A little sports drink mix, lemon juice, or even a little nip of alcohol will also delay freezing. Keep your spare water bottle in the middle of your pack, where your extra clothing will protect it from the cold. The big question is: How much water? Drink water in quantities that may seem prodigious. An active adult can require 1.5 to 2 quarts per day while exercising minimally in a dry climate. A small woman will probably drink less than a large man. However, all other things being equal, climbing uphill, carrying a heavy pack, running, or fast hiking quickly increases those water requirements. Figure on at least a quart of water per person for a moderate snowshoe hike; a pint or more per person, per hour for a longer, more challenging one; and a quart or more per person, per hour when running or climbing on steep, prolonged uphills—and then bring along a big extra bottle.

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The dangers of exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays are well known. The higher the altitude, the stronger the sun you will encounter while snowshoeing. Protecting yourself against powerful ultraviolet rays is easy: use waterproof, high-SPF sunscreen (SPF 15 or more), applied liberally and, especially in the spring when the sun is high and hot, wear a brimmed hat. Remember also to protect your eyes with sunglasses that provide 100 percent UV filtration, and if it’s windy, ski goggles.

Fighting Frostbite and Hypothermia It can get very cold very fast in the mountains. Frostbite and hypothermia are possibilities for the unprepared—or underprepared—snowshoer (see below for what these conditions are). Winter first-aid courses include instruction on what to do for both frostbite and hypothermia, but we all know that the best cure is prevention. Equipping yourself properly with suitable clothing, socks, and gloves is the best prevention. See “Feet First,” on page 17 of the Equipment chapter, and the Clothing chapter for guidance. If it’s really cold, you may want a face mask, a neck gaiter, or at least a scarf (fleece works well) that you can pull over your chin, mouth, nose, and cheeks. Small chemically activated heat packs that slip into your gloves or boot toes can provide hours of auxiliary heat. Frostbite is cold-caused tissue damage, which is painful at the least and permanently damaging in the worst case. Fingers, toes, and exposed portions of the face (tip of the nose, cheekbones, and ears) are the most susceptible. Tingling can be the first sign that you need to take precautions. If your toes are affected, you can loosen your boots, change quickly to dry socks, and/or put small heat packs into your boot toes. If your fingertips begin to feel funny, heat packs again might help. So will warmer gloves, glove liners (or overmitts), and hand warmers inside your gloves. When tingling becomes stinging pain and numbness and white patches appear on the skin, frostbite has begun to set in, and it’s important to get off the trail and indoors or inside a heated vehicle as quickly as possible. Ideally, warm the afflicted part rapidly in warm (not hot) water. Hypothermia is a drop in the body’s core temperature that results when the body loses heat faster than it can produce it. Being very underdressed or clad in cold, wet clothing will most likely lead to hypothermia, which can lead to disorientation and, at worst, even death.

THE BASICS

Snowshoeing

Shivering, goose bumps, and a lack of coordination, even when performing simple tasks, are signs of this condition. Some people refer to early signs as “the umbles.” When someone begins to mumble, stumble, and tumble, it’s time to take measures to prevent severe hypothermia—which is another reason to travel in the winter backcountry with at least one companion who can notice the signs and take appropriate measures. The first response is to protect the victim from additional heat loss by getting him or her out of the wind, changing from wet to dry clothing, and adding extra layers of clothing. Warm liquids and food also help, as do hot-water bottles (which are hardly likely to be available on the trail). Windchill is the combination of temperature on the thermometer, windspeed, and, in newer windchill calculations, the length of time a person is exposed to the cold. The lower the temperature, the stronger the wind, and/or the longer the exposure time, the faster a person will become frostbitten or hypothermic—all reasons to dress appropriately and carry extra supplies into the winter backcountry.

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Avalanche Awareness “Avalanche” is more than just the name of Colorado’s National Hockey League franchise. It’s one of nature’s more ferocious phenomena and a real threat in the backcountry. The Colorado Avalanche Information Center receives reports of some 2,000 slides annually, but that is just a small fraction of those that occur. An average of 22 people die in avalanches in the United States every year. Colorado—with the highest average altitude, a dry climate that exacerbates slide potential, and a large population of backcountry users—is the number-one state in terms of avalanche fatalities. Most are backcountry skiers, snowboarders, and snowmobilers, but one woman was killed some years back by a snowslide from the roof of her Vail home. Although this section describes some cautions to exercise if you have to travel in avalanche territory, no book can take the place of proper training, experience gained over time, and, especially, good judgment. I have used Forest Service and other official evaluations of avalanche hazards in the trail descriptions in this book, and rangers tend to estimate very conservatively. “No trail is without any avalanche hazard,” one Gunnison National Forest ranger said to me. “What about Crested Butte’s Town Park?” I asked, referring to a flat expanse smack in the middle of a very broad valley. “Maybe that,” he admitted, a little grudgingly, “but that’s about the only place.” This book focuses primarily on marked routes through wooded areas with no or low avalanche potential (or routes where the slide hazard is confined to limited and identifiable areas). Still, snowshoes are so versatile that the temptation to go off-route is great, and snowshoers who succumb to it need to be smart about avalanches. Backcountry skiers and snowboarders use snowshoes to access areas where slide potential is a real threat, and even occasional snowshoers can be lured by the temptation of exploring the next ridge, the next valley, the next slope. Even recreational snowshoers on the most benign routes would do well to have rudimentary avalanche knowledge. If you plan on snowshoeing in avalanche country, take an avalanche safety course, go on a few guided tours, and learn from your guides’ experience, or simply turn back rather than risk what you think might be a hazardous area. People heading into the more risky high country should travel in groups but cross any unavoidable slide area one at a time, and everyone should carry an avalanche transceiver or

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Backcountry Cautions beacon, a shovel, and a probe pole, and know how to use them all. Also, it is important to know how to read avalanche terrain. High slopes, near or above the treeline, and clear avalanche paths pose the greatest hazard. Open slopes angled at between 30 and 45 degrees are the most likely to slide. Snow can release when it is unstable (including in the early season when cover is thin) or when freeze-thaw-snowfall cycles have caused instability between snow layers. Eighty percent of avalanches occur during or just after major snowstorms, when deep, loose snow or overhanging cornices break from the force of gravity. That also means that 20 percent happen at other times. Skiers and snowshoers crossing an unstable slope, or snowmobilers cutting across an open area, can trigger avalanches. The first avalanche fatality of 1997–1998 was a snowshoer, also an experienced backcountry skier, who initiated a slide on Guanella Pass in an area not known by locals to have been released previously. Although the safest part of the snow season is generally spring, when the snow has settled and stabilized, two snowshoers were injured—one critically—during a slide in Pump House Gulch near Berthoud Pass in mid-April 1998. If you find yourself in an area where there is even a suspicion of avalanche hazard, know some basic principles. It is generally safer to cross an open area at the top rather than in the middle of the slope. It is also far safer to climb or descend a mountain on a ridge or along the edge of a slope, near trees or rocks, than in the middle. It is safer to move through the trees or along the edge of the forest than through an open area. If you must cross an open slope, proceed one at a time instead of in a tight group. If you are moving along the valley floor, steer clear of evident avalanche paths. You can often tell where snow has run by the broken snow chunks at the bottom of a gully. If you must cross below an avalanche path, do so one at a time, quickly but gingerly. Everyone in the group needs to keep an eye on the person moving across a potentially hazardous area and be prepared to mount a rescue if a slide occurs. In the unlikely event that you are caught in an avalanche, try to grab a tree or a rock and hold on. If you are knocked down, try to “swim” with the avalanche to stay at the surface. Most avalanche deaths actually result from suffocation, so if you are buried, immediately try to clear as large an air pocket as you can in front of your face (and pull a neck gaiter, scarf, or collar up over your nose and mouth). Stick one arm up (if you can determine where “up” is). You have no time to lose, because avalanched snow sets up as soon as it stops moving. If you are with someone who has been buried, first mark the place where you last saw the victim, quickly use your avalanche probe (see the Equipment chapter), and begin searching by fanning out below the spot where the victim was last seen. When you locate the victim, dig as quickly as possible. Precious minutes count. The bottom line is that if you are using snowshoes to access the mountain danger zones of open slopes and wild weather, you should be especially slide-savvy. To minimize the risk, take known precautions. First, check the avalanche report. It is available by phone from the Colorado Avalanche Information Center (http://geosurvey.state.co.us/avalanche/) and on several Web sites (see Appendix E, page 337), from local Forest Service offices or county sheriff’s departments and at some outdoor and sporting-goods shops in the mountains, and is broadcast daily on many mountain town and some Front Range radio stations.

THE BASICS

❑ Avalanches are most common on slopes of 30 to 45 degrees, but large avalanches can occur on slopes ranging from 25 to 60 degrees (on steeper slopes, snow normally slides off during snowfall). ❑ Generally, avalanches occur over and over in the same areas, so watch for avalanche paths. Telltale signs are pushed-over small trees and larger trees with limbs broken off. Steep, open gullies and slopes can ser ve as snow conduits, giving avalanches a clear route downhill. ❑ If you see signs of recent avalanches, suspect dangerous conditions. ❑ Beware when snowballs or “car twheels” roll down the slope. ❑ If snow sounds hollow, or if cracks are apparent throughout the snow , particularly on leeward slopes, these are signs of dangerous slab avalanche conditions. ❑ Slab avalanches are more likely to occur on convex slopes. ❑ Snow-loaded leeward slopes are generally more dangerous than windward slopes. ❑ Snow on north-facing slopes is more likely to slide in midwinter , while south-facing slopes are more dangerous in the spring and/or on sunny days. ❑ About 80 percent of avalanches occur during or shor tly after storms, because loose, dry snow slides easily. Be alert to dangerous conditions if a foot or more of new snow has accumulated. Snow falling at a rate of 1 inch per hour or more increases avalanche danger. ❑ Storms starting with low temperatures and dr y snow followed by rising temperatures are more likely to cause avalanches. ❑ Snow persists in an unstable condition under cold temperatures, and settles and stabilizes rapidly when temperatures are near or just above freezing. However , rapid changes in weather conditions can also cause snowpack adjustments. ❑ The safest route is along the wide mountain ridge tops, slightly on the windward side and away from cor nices. The next safest route is in a valley , far from the bottom of steep slopes.

Search-and-Rescue Card The Outdoor Recreation Search-and-Rescue Card (CORSAR) is a voluntary, but arguably the smartest, investment that a backcountry user can make. While it is not insurance in the commercial sense of the word, revenues from the card—$3 for one year or $12 for five years— help offset the costs for looking for or evacuating lost or injured backcountry recreationists. While volunteer search-and-rescue teams, under the direction of county sheriffs’ offices, conduct rescue missions and can charge the rescued person(s), CORSAR reimbursements help fund missions that can involve dozens of people and cost thousands of dollars. CORSAR is administered by the Colorado Department of Local Affairs, 222 South Sixth St., Room 409, Grand Junction, CO 81501; (970) 248-7310; www.state.co.us/searchandrescue/ SARcard.htm. Cards can be purchased online or from some 300 vendors, including sporting goods and hardware stores, discount merchandisers, Forest Service and State Park offices, and other local and civic organizations. A list is accessible on the Web site.

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AVALANCHE AWARENESS CHECKLIST

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40 Snowshoeing

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287 

25 25 

T Trails 1-5 14

Fort Rocky Mountain Collins National Park Glen Haven



Loveland

T

Greeley

34 

34

Estess P Pa Park

Trailss 6-17 T

T

Granby

36 

Lyons

77 Ferncliff 77 Trails ils 18-23 T Trails 24-36

76 

Boulder

72

Eldora Winterr Park

T

Nederland Rollinsville

Trails 37-43

Geo Georgetow Georgetown

Golden

Black Hawk 119

T

Idaho Springs


Denver

70 

25 25 

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Fri o Frisco

Trails 44-56

Castle Rock

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Buena Bu Vista Vi sta

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Trails 57-58 T

Manitou Ma S Springs

115

Salida d

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Colorado Springs

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Poudre Canyon: Trails 1–5 Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side: Trails 6–24 Brainard Lake: Trails 25–36 Nederland and Rollinsville: Trails 37–43 Idaho Springs and Georgetown: Trails 44–56 Pikes Peak Region: Trails 57–64

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Trailhead

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R o a ri n

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Neota Wilderness

33

Penn ock Creek

3 miles

2

Joe W

Zimmerman Lake Trail

Joe Wright Reservoir

Chambers Lake

3 5

Campground Information

O EN UD IC R E BY -N WA OR Y TH

Point of interest

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3 kilometers

Rawah Wilderness

Montgomery Pass Trail

4

Cameron Pass

14

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Montgomery Pass

Colorado State Forest

Poudre Canyon

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flows northeastward for about 25 miles before making a sharp turn to the east toward Fort Collins. It was Colorado’s first designated Wild and Scenic River and is the Front Range’s last remaining free-flowing river. It has carved a canyon that is sometimes deep, often dramatic, and always exciting. The drive through the spectacular canyon cut by this roiling river is an attraction unto itself at any time of year, but it is also a great prelude to some excellent and usually uncrowded snowshoeing routes accessed from generous parking areas. As you enter the canyon from the east, you will start in a near-desert and end up in the montane zone. The vegetation changes dramatically as the highway climbs, becoming less arid and more forested with beautiful conifers. The drive is 50-odd miles from the bottom of the canyon to the snow zone culiminating at 10,278-foot Cameron Pass, where winter starts as early as October and lasts until May or June. In fact, it was not until 1979 that Hwy. 14 was paved so that state crews could plow it. Until then, the road was closed in winter, as Trail Ridge Rd. in Rocky Mountain National Park and several other high routes still are. Especially in its lower sections, Poudre Canyon is sprinkled with small riverside resorts, campgrounds, and picnic areas. You’ll also pass trailheads here and there, many leading to places suitable for snowshoeing after a snowstorm. The entire route is bracketed by grandiose wilderness areas whose boundaries, in many cases, are close to the road. The first, as you drive west, is the modestly sized Cache la Poudre Wilderness, which nestles along the canyon’s lower section. Farther up, the Neota, Never Summer, and Comanche Peak Wilderness areas lie more or less between Poudre Canyon and Rocky Mountain National Park, south of the highway. The highway eventually abandons the Cache la Poudre River for Joe Wright Creek, a tributary. You’ll find winter trailheads every few miles along the upper canyon, providing abundant backcountry opportunities and reliable snow. The huge Rawah Wilderness stretches northward from Cameron Pass. Portions of the adjacent Colorado State Forest are on each side of the highway as it enters the vast and remote valley called North Park. For tourist information, contact Fort Collins Convention and Visitors Bureau, 3745 E. Prospect Rd. #200, Fort Collins, CO 80525; (800) 274-FORT or (970) 491-3388; www.ftcollins.com. GETTING THERE Co Hwy. 14, which parallels the river, is a spectacular drive from the semiarid and scrubby lower canyon, where snow seems to melt as soon as it falls, to the high country of long winters. To get to Poudre Canyon, take U.S. 287 about 10 miles north of Fort Collins to a tiny speck on the map called T ed’s Place. The turnoff to Hwy. 14 is well marked. As you drive westward and “upstream,” the scener y ping-pongs between narrow clefts through soaring rock walls to wider spots. Designated a Scenic and Historic Byway, this is a wor thy excursion even if not heading for the excellent snowshoeing routes.

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THE CACHE LA POUDRE RIVER tumbles out of Rocky Mountain National Park and

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Poudre Canyon Trail 1 PINGREE PARK RD. ● Easy Distance • 0.6 mile (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,960 feet Highest elevation • 9,040 feet Elevation difference • 80 feet Snowmobiles • Yes (or vehicular traffic if the road has been plowed) Dogs • Yes (only to the Rocky Mountain National Park boundary if you select the longer hike option) Maps • Trails Illustrated #112, Poudre River, Cameron Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Pingree Park

This is a route whose directions and parking information for the winter trailhead are more complicated than the snowshoeing opportunity itself. The Pingree Park Rd. is on the left (south) side of Hwy. 14, a scenic 25.7 miles from Ted’s Place. Turn left onto the Pingree Park Rd. (Larimer County Road 146, Forest Service Road 63E), cross the bridge, and continue on the unpaved road, bearing left at the fork with Crown Point Rd. at 4.2 miles. The route you are on is generally well plowed for about 11.5 miles to the end of the final residential area. From there on, it is usually but not always plowed—and perhaps also not as frequently. It is often possible to drive to the Stormy Peaks trailhead. Occasionally, the road is accessible just with a four-wheel-drive vehicle, preferably one with high clearance. At those times, consider the Tom Bennett Campground access sign, 16.4 miles from the main highway, to be the end of the road and the winter trailhead. Pingree Park is a generous valley carved by the South Fork of the Cache la Poudre River. Fans of this area, which in winter feels secluded, believe it to be inherently scenic enough to qualify as part of nearby Rocky

Mountain National Park. That is highly unlikely ever to happen, because the access road is flanked by stretches of private land on which homes have been built, as well as Colorado State University’s forest research facility at the end of the road. This area hit the headlines in 1994 when a 1,275-acre forest fire charred much of it. But much as the infamous Yellowstone fire six years earlier created an opportunity for natural rejuvenation, so did this one. Snowshoeing here in the dead of winter still presents an opportunity to view the stark and dramatic beauty of burnt trees standing like sculpted black sentinels against the pure white snow. If the road has been tended to, you might snowshoe beside it if this itinerary appeals to you but the plow has scraped the asphalt; otherwise, hike right on the snowed-over road. The short snowshoeable portion dead-ends near the head of the valley, site of the old Koenig Ranch. It might seem like a lot of effort to drive so far on a dicey road for a modest and easy snowshoe, such as the one from the end of the plowed section and a summer parking area, but on a bright, sunny day, the view and the ecology lesson make it all worthwhile. Park along the side of the road at the end of the plowed part and begin snowshoeing straight ahead (west). The CSU research center is off limits, so stay on the road as it bends to the left, following a fence for the entire distance. The forest fire came right up to the CSU facility, and the line between the burn area and the unscathed portion is right at the road. You’ll feel the power of the fire when you see the fire line so close and so clear. There’s also a real majesty to the panoramic view of the Stormy Peaks that appears as you approach the bend in the road. It is on your right as you snowshoe toward the summer parking area.

FRONT RANGE Poudre Canyon

■ Moderate Distance • 4.25 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,480 feet Highest elevation • 9,887 feet Elevation difference • 407 feet Snowmobiles • Not on Long Draw Trail, but permitted on Long Draw Reservoir Rd. Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #112, Poudre River, Cameron Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Chambers Lake

From Fort Collins, take U.S. 287 and turn left (west) onto CO 14 for 53 miles to a large, restroom-equipped parking lot on the left side of the road. Follow snowshoe and ski tracks toward the forest, crossing an often-windy open area but soon entering the trees. Frequent blue diamonds mark the trail that climbs steadily through a narrow valley. It levels out as it winds through a series of woods and clearings. After 0.5 mile you will come to the junction with Long Draw Reservoir Rd. (Forest Service Road 156), a wide route that is extensively used by snowmobiles. Go left and continue along the road for a short distance. At a ground stake marked 30/35 and a subtle wooden sign affixed to a tree, bear right onto the Long Draw Ski Trail. The lovely trail begins along a section of the Meadows Ski Trail and then after 0.5 mile veers to the left (east) to climb a modest hill. The route winds through dense woods, including numerous beautiful Ponderosa pines. At the top of the hill, the trail crosses a large open area with widely spaced lodgepoles and a panoramic mountain view. After a few more small rises and dips, the trail narrows and drops back to the Long Draw Reservoir Rd. Although this is not a heavy-use trail, be on the

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Trail 2 LONG DRAW SKI TRAIL/ MEADOWS SKI TRAIL

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If You Want a Longer Hike. To add both distance and challenge, begin climbing the Stormy Peaks Trail (Forest Service Trail #980) from the summer trailhead at the end of the Pingree Park Rd. The trail parallels and soon climbs up a glacial moraine above the south fork of the Cache la Poudre River, which at this point is a modest stream. You will pass standing and burned conifers, as well as new growth that is poking out above the snow. From some vantage points enjoy views of the CSU research center and toward Emmaline Lake. The summer trail to Stormy Peaks Pass continues for nearly 6 miles and gains over 2,600 feet in elevation as it climbs above the timberline, passing through the Comanche Peak Wilderness and into a remote corner of Rocky Mountain National Park. Following it even for only a couple of miles through the trees and onto the ridge is a worthwhile winter excursion. The wilderness boundary is 3 miles and 570 feet from the trailhead, which comprises a moderate snowshoe hike. As you ascend the ridge, the views for the south- and southwest-bearing trail continue to improve, including the commanding bulk of Comanche Peak. The national park boundary is 6 miles and 1,370 feet, which ratchets the difficulty up to challenging. Remember—dogs are not permitted in Rocky Mountain National Park, so turn around at the boundary if your pooch is with you. Attempting to reach the pass itself is not advisable for most snowshoers.

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alert for descending skiers coming down behind you. It levels out slightly before intersecting again with the Long Draw Reservoir Rd. You can either turn around and retrace your route or go left onto the road for the return to the parking area.

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This 10,276-foot pass is not the highest of Colorado’s major mountain pass roads, but it is the northernmost with a road across it. Drivers find it as hairy as the more frequently traveled passes, and recreationists find it as attractive as any. The highway snakes through a narrow corridor, with the Rocky Mountain National Park boundary directly on one side and the tip of the Colorado State Forest on the other. Highway 14 is the only paved way directly from the Front Range into the splendid, isolated expanse of North Park, one of Colorado’s great mountain basins, formed by the peaks of the Continental Divide to the south and west and the Medicine Bow range to the east. The Nokhu Crags are a distinctive landmark, but the scenery all around is gorgeous.

Trail 3 ZIMMERMAN LAKE TRAIL ■ Moderate Distance • 1.1 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 10,020 feet Highest elevation • 10,500 feet Elevation difference • 480 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #112, Poudre River, Cameron Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Chambers Lake, Clark Peak

The capacious, restroom-equipped Joe Wright Reservoir/Zimmerman Lake parking lot is on the left side of the highway, approximately 58 miles up Poudre Canyon toward Cameron Pass. The trailhead is close to the upper end of the parking lot, but snowshoers and skiers familiar with the route tend to shortcut to the trail from their cars. Mercifully, it’s just a few steps from the often breezy parking area to the dense and sheltering conifers. At the outset, the Zimmerman Lake Trail (Forest Service Trail #977) heads in an easterly direction, climbing somewhat steeply but very steadily. It is dotted periodically with blue diamond blazes, but you won’t need to refer to these because it quickly leads into a service road that is wide and very easy to follow. Also, it easily accommodates both upbound snowshoe and ski traffic as well as fast-moving skiers coming back down. After a major set of switchbacks comes one of the better views, toward the cirque between Diamond Peaks and Montgomery Pass. From here the trail becomes less steep, and the curves are milder too. Occasional clearings offer fine vistas of the Never Summer Mountains and Rawah Wilderness panoramas. The main trail comes in at the southwestern end of the lake, a lovely little jewel with fine views of the stark, glacial ridge that forms the lake’s backdrop.

FRONT RANGE Poudre Canyon

If You Want a Longer Hike. If you’re game for a longer tour, you can branch off at a wooden sign to the right, roughly halfway to the lake, to circle it in a counterclockwise direction and rejoin the main trail close to the lake, or you can stay on the main trail and circle the lake clockwise, a total hike of 3.1 miles with little additional elevation gain. Part of the winter circle route requires crossing some ice, so only consider it in mid-winter and/or if it has been very cold for a considerable length of time. The Meadows Ski Trail offers a scenic route over a modest ridge with immodest Medicine Bow Range views. It then goes through a frozen wetland through the Neota Wilderness and connects to the Long Draw winter trailhead—a one-way distance of 4.25 miles. With nearly 1,000 feet of elevation loss, it is a good candidate for a car shuttle if you don’t want to have to regain that much elevation en route back to Zimmerman Lake. If, on the other hand, you are looking for a considerably more challenging hike, you can organize your car shuttle so that you have a major ascent from the Long Draw trailhead and a modest descent to the Zimmerman Lake trailhead.

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Challenging Distance • 1.7 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low on lower trail; moderate to high in open areas on upper trail Starting elevation • 10,020 feet Highest elevation • 11,000 feet Elevation difference • 980 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #112, Poudre River, Cameron Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Clark Peak

The short, steep Montgomery Pass Trail (Forest Service Trail #986), which starts across the highway from the Zimmerman Lake trailhead and parking area, is best suited for stronger snowshoers. Designated as a summer jeep

The Nokhu Crags dominate the scenery at Cameron Pass—the crest of Poudre Canyon. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

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Trail 4 MONTGOMERY PASS TRAIL

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Poudre Canyon trail, it is narrower and far steeper than the Zimmerman Lake Trail, even though it’s just 0.6 mile longer. You’ll appreciate your snowshoes’ grippiness as you pass skiers herringboning or plodding with climbing skins on their skis for the ascent, but because the route is fairly narrow, you’ll want to stay alert for those skiers coming back down. (Snowshoeing up and skiing down is also an option for anyone who doesn’t mind carrying an extra set of equipment.) At first, the trail follows Montgomery Creek and climbs aggressively northward, initially through a clear area before it enters the forest of substantial Engelmann spruce and subalpine fir. After a major bend to the left, its direction is toward the west. The trail crosses into the Colorado State Forest at 1.4 miles, and a small clearing 0.1 mile after that presents you with several options. Skiers and snowboarders heading for high powderfields often take a route to the left (southwest). Most snowshoers prefer to stay the course, passing a blue diamond marker and continuing toward the pass. Nearly 480 feet higher than Cameron Pass, Montgomery Pass is above the treeline, and wind conditions can be daunting. It is therefore reasonable to turn around at this clearing, because the main route traverses an open area and the top can be both avalanche-prone and windy. If conditions are favorable and you do make it to the top, take in the views of North Park, the flat whiteness of frozen North Michigan Reservoir, and the surrounding snowy summits.

Trail 5 UPPER MICHIGAN DITCH TRAIL ● Easy Distance • 1.3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 10,280 feet Highest elevation • 10,320 feet Elevation difference • 40 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #112, Poudre River, Cameron Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Clark Peak, Chambers Lake, Mount Richthofen

This tour, which is on Colorado State Forest land, is excellent if you are new to snowshoeing, uncertain about the altitude, toting a baby in a pack or towing a toddler in a pulk, or introducing lowland-dwelling visitors to Colorado outdoors. From the parking lot at the top of Cameron Pass, cross the highway to the gate on the Upper Michigan Ditch service road. The flat trail quickly enters the Colorado State Forest just before the self-service fee station. The calm, frozen surface of the irrigation ditch is on your left. Intermittently, through breaks in the tall spruces and firs, you will get wonderful views of the Nokhu Crags and Mt. Richthofen to the right of the trail. After a wide bend at about 0.6 mile, the trail reaches the Upper Michigan River drainage, a wide valley with open views.

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If You Want a Longer Hike. If you are curious about what lies ahead or are hardier than this mild road requires, you can continue. The left fork leads steeply to American Lakes (called Michigan Lakes in some books and on some maps), about 2.2 miles farther in. The right fork continues gently to Lake Agnes, a mild route but not necessarily a safe one, for it does cross some avalanche areas. The total length of the ditch is 4 miles, from Lake Agnes back toward Cameron Pass. Its 1,200-foot elevation difference puts it in a very different league from the tame first section.

Snowshoeing

Guided Tours Rocky Mountain Adventures, a Fort Collins rafting and kayaking retailer and outfitter, runs guided snowshoe excursions on winter weekends into the Colorado State Forest. Offerings include clinics on snowshoeing basics and such unique theme tours as a Moose Spotting Outing and a Moonlit Boreal Owl Search. The store is located at 1117 North U.S. 287, Fort Collins. For schedules and reservations, call (800) 858-6808 or (970) 493-4005.

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Continue another 0.6 (still mild) mile to several buildings remaining from the ditch’s construction era and used by summer maintenance crews. If you are attracted by the flat, easy trail, you’ll find this to be a good turnaround point, but you can also continue another 0.3 mile to a fork in the trail, which provides a second good turnaround for most snowshoers.

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atop America’s splendid national park system. This matchless high-alpine environment is renowned for a magnificent landscape of craggy summits, glacier-carved valleys, sheer granite cliffs, perpetual snowfields, crystalline lakes, high cirques, and stretches of tundra. One-third of the park’s 414 square miles is treeless tundra, the greatest expanse in the lower 48 states, but none of the tundra, and only the fringes of the park, are easily accessible in winter. The park was the twenty-first place on Earth to be named by the United Nations as a World Biosphere Reserve to showcase and protect its natural wonders. There are now more than 370 such reserves, but this park’s early designation is a fitting testimonial to its internationally recognized distinction. Even though the park claims no single signature feature, such as Yellowstone’s Old Faithful or Yosemite’s Halfdome, some three million people a year are drawn to its dramatic beauty. About 90 percent of these visitors experience Rocky Mountain National Park’s splendor merely as drive-through tourists, and just a small fraction of them see it when there’s snow on the ground. The last major prewinter attraction is in autumn, when the park’s massive elk herd descends from the high country for the mating ritual known as “bugling season,” so named after the bull elks’ mournful sounds. Herds of tourists migrate to the park to see and hear these great beasts. Trail Ridge Rd. is a 48-mile-long strip of asphalt, roughly following an old Ute Indian trail that threads through the breathtakingly beautiful heart of the park and across the Continental Divide. It connects the towns of Estes Park on the east and Grand Lake on the west. Not only is it one of the world’s most scenic driving routes, it is also the nation’s highest continuous paved road—and the highest unplowed road as well, closed to vehicular traffic by November and generally reopening around Memorial Day. When Trail Ridge Rd. is snowed in, the park is without its major attraction to sightseeing drivers. Winter is a season of quiet in the park itself, and both Estes Park and Grand Lake doze. It is a precious time, when virtually all the park’s visitors are active outdoorsfolk. Not only do both towns slumber, but there are virtually two separate parks, and therefore two different snowshoeing destinations. On the park’s dramatic east side, you’ll find many trails along Bear Lake Rd., including at and near Sprague Lake, Bierstadt Lake, and Much of the spectacular east side of Rocky Mountain National Park is characterized by dramatic glaciated Bear Lake itself. Hidden Valley, once a liftvalleys and stunning peaks. (Photo by Ral Sandberg) served downhill ski area, is now a popular

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ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK PERCHES LIKE A CROWN

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Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side

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Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side snowplay site with excellent snowshoeing in what can be called the heart of the park in winter. It is also one of the two Colorado sites of the annual Winter Trails Day (see page 55). Trails in the southeastern and northeastern corners of the park not only are less used but lie outside the fee area. Numerous west-side trails (see the Rocky Mountain National Park—West Side chapter, page 256) offer fine snowshoeing options as well. If you need advance information, call park headquarters at Beaver Meadows, (970) 586-1206, or the newer Fall River Visitor Center, (970) 5861206 (weekends and holidays only in winter). Remember that Rocky Mountain National Park is a fee area (currently $15 per car or $30 annually) and that dogs are prohibited. The park’s Web site is www.nps.gov/romo. Estes Park is a true summer tourist center that drops into a quaint and charming slumber when the aspen trees have dropped their golden leaves, the prime elk viewing season has passed, and snow closes Trail Ridge Rd. Some restaurants, shops, and lodgings shut down as well, but many others operate fully or simply curtail their hours during the winter. Snowshoeing has gotten to be a very big winter activity in Estes Park. From January through March, the Chamber of Commerce-sponsored Discovery Snowshoe Festival offers free snowshoe tours every Saturday and Sunday. For snowshoe festival and general tourist information, contact Estes Park Convention and Visitors Bureau, 500 Big Thompson Ave., Estes Park, CO 80517; (800) 44-ESTES or (970) 577-9900; www.estesparkcvb.com.

GETTING THERE From Denver, drive

north on Interstate 25 to Exit 217, U.S. 36 (also known as the Boulder Turnpike, though it is no longer a toll road). Continue nor thwest on U.S. 36 through Boulder and L yons, up North St. Vrain Canyon (still U.S. 36) and into Estes Park. An alter native is to take Interstate 25 north to Exit 243 and follow CO Hwy. 66 west to Lyons, where it merges with U.S. 36 to Estes Park. There are two entrances from Estes Park (east) into the main section of Rocky Mountain National Park. The Beaver Lake entrance station provides the most direct access to Bear Lake Rd., where you will find most of the good snowshoeing trails. To reach it, stay on U.S. 36, which makes a left tur n at the second traffic light just as you enter downtown Estes Park. It becomes the main commercial street. Follow it through town, make a left and then a right, following the U.S. 36 signs to the Beaver Meadows entrance and fee station. A few hundred yards before you reach the fee station is the Beaver Meadows Visitors Center, where you can get maps and specific information on good snowshoeing trails and snow conditions. It is open daily , year-round. Bear Lake Rd. is on your left (south), 0.25 mile after the fee station. The Fall River entrance accesses the Horseshoe Park and Hidden Valley areas. As you approach Estes Park, drive straight through the intersection at the second traffic light, which puts you on U.S. 34. Y ou will pass the Stanley Hotel on your right. Continue on this road to the Fall River entrance and fee station. A new visitors center opened at the Fall River entrance in 2000, but in winter, it is only open on weekends and some holidays. It is on the left, shor tly before the fee station.

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Trail 6 OLD FALL RIVER RD. ● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 1.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,600 feet Highest elevation • 8,980 feet (Chasm Falls) Elevation difference • 380 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park

This unpaved, unplowed road, completed in 1920, was the first route to cross Rocky Mountain National Park. It has been supplanted by Trail Ridge Rd. for two-way vehicular traffic. But Fall River Rd. remains. In summer, it is a one-way auto road, and in winter, it becomes just about as straightforward as a snowshoeing route can be. This wide, flat, and safe road makes for a perfect excursion for a nervous beginning snowshoer, but even for experienced snowshoers and frequent summer visitors to the park, seeing this historic route step-by-step rather than through a car window is enlightening. Approach the park through the Fall River Entrance (U.S. 34) and drive past the wide expanse of Horseshoe Park, where you are quite likely to see an elk herd. After 2.2 miles, turn right onto Fall River Rd. toward Endovalley. The restroom-equipped west parking lot of the Alluvial Fan area and the winter road closure are 0.8 mile. Note that the sign on the gate indicating that dogs are permitted along Fall River Rd. is actually a summer message. Dogs are prohibited in winter after the road is closed to vehicles. Begin walking up the road—wearing your snowshoes if there is sufficient snow in this lower portion or carrying them if the road is bare (which is not uncommon for this stretch

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Ranger Tours Guided excursions in Rocky Mountain National Park currently are offered three days a week (weekends and also Wednesdays) from January through March. The three areas used for these excursions are Bear Lake, Hidden Valley, and Sprague Lake. During the 2003–04 winter, rangers led guided weekend walks, and park volunteers often led midweek walks. Schedules and itineraries have changed, depending on construction projects, weather, and other variables. Two-hour walks suitable for novices are always on the schedule, and four-hour intermediate tours have been offered in the past and might be again in future years. Tours are interpretive, and the beginner version also covers some basic snowshoeing tips, including advice for sharing winter trails with other users. Although these tours are free, reservations are required and taken only the week before the desired date. Call immediately as they fill up quickly. Participants must be at least 12 years old for the four-hour tour and 8 years old for the two-hour tour. No rental equipment is available in the park, so bring your own gear or rent in one of several outdoor stores in town. For tour reservations or information, call (970) 586-1206.

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Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side is paved). Most winters, there will be snow soon enough. The marshes and ponds of the upper portion of Horseshoe Park are on your left, and the winter-bare branches of willows and aspens flank the route. The grade is extremely gentle for the first 0.3 mile or so to Endovalley, a summer picnic ground to the left. Even after so modest a distance, the view back toward Horseshoe Park is compelling. This section alone makes a fine first snowshoe walk with children. Beyond a second gate at Endovalley the pavement ends, the grade becomes steeper, and snow cover is surer. The scenery also gets more dramatic, with cliff bands on the right of the road and the drop-off into the ever-deeper canyon carved by Fall River to the left. A summer pullout after 0.3 mile offers another lovely view back toward Horseshoe Park, and 0.7 mile farther, you will pass a washed-out bowl on your right. Continue through a deepening forest until you reach the parking pullout for Chasm Falls. Note that the short trail down to the falls is very steep and probably best saved for a summer visit. Return the way you came. If You Want a Longer Hike. Old Fall

River Rd. keeps going and going, and so can strong, energetic snowshoers. From Endovalley to Fall River Pass and the Alpine Visitors Center (closed in winter) is 9 miles of switchbacks and straightaways and nearly 3,200 feet in elevation gain to 11,796 feet, which is far more than most people could accomplish. Even the strongest and fittest snowshoer using Fall River Rd. as a training ground for endurance competitions wisely turns around before breaking out of the trees and into a zone with much more extreme weather and greater avalanche potential.

Trail 7 BEAVER MEADOWS ● Easy Distance • 3 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,300 feet Highest elevation • 8,440 feet Elevation difference • 140 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park

The Park Service describes Beaver Meadows as a “winter hike,” but after a snowfall, this huge open area of rolling, tree-fringed meadowlands makes an excellent, accessible, and easy snowshoe tour. Beaver Meadows is an undulating valley punctuated by ponderosa pines and favored by some of the park’s massive elk herd. However, ground coverage is iffy—or nonexistent—if seasonal snows have been sparse. Sometimes it works as a combination hike and snowshoe hike. Put your snowshoes on where there is snow cover and take them off for stretches of bare ground. In any case, it is a comfortable drive for people who don’t want to tackle Bear Lake Rd.’s many twists and turns in the snow. From the Beaver Meadows entrance to the park, pass the Bear Lake Rd. turnoff and continue 0.5 mile to a parking pullout on the left that accesses a web of unpaved summer routes, some used by horseback outfitters. Start your hike along a summer road that angles northwestward above the meadows, along the north side of willow-lined Beaver Brook. After about 0.8 mile, you will come to a fork. It is possible to cross the meadows and shorten the hike when there is good snow cover, but to make the entire loop, stay straight on a summer pack trail toward Deer Ridge, whose aspen-covered flanks often harbor deer and elk in winter. At the westernmost point of

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this route, about 1.5 miles from the trailhead (and just after crossing Beaver Brook), the trail makes a sharp hairpin bend to the left and goes southeast. After 0.3 mile, turn left at the trail junction and continue east. As you descend along a snow-covered hill and through the flat meadows, it’s about 1.2 miles east to return to the trailhead.

Hidden Valley Once there was a lift-served Alpine ski area within the confines of Rocky Mountain National Park. Over the years, it had several names, but Hidden Valley was the one that stuck. In the 1990s, the ski area closed permanently, the lifts were removed, and the old day-lodge was demolished. In the years since, Hidden Valley has become one of the most popular snowplay venues in Rocky Mountain National Park, attracting snowshoers, as well as sled- and saucer-riding children, and telemarkers and snowboarders hiking, often on snowshoes, to access the former ski area’s ghost trails. Located at 9,500 feet and just a short jog off a well-maintained, paved road (U.S. 34), Hidden Valley offers something for every level of snowshoer. Beginners and casual snowshoers can stay close to the base area, where the wide slopes punctuated with islands of trees offer gentle terrain, groves of trees to explore, and the chance to practice ascending and descending gentle hills. More advanced snowshoers trek into the trees, and those who want to climb for fitness, scenery, or both can make their way up the old ski trails, even crossing Trail Ridge Rd., which is not plowed in winter. Snowshoers who ascend the old ski area’s 2,000 vertical feet benefit from significant and immediate challenge. The upper 400 feet of the old ski area are above the treeline, so it is wise to stop at the Park Visitors Center to ask about

Events Estes Park Snowshoe Adventure Series. This series of special events debuted

in the winter of 1999–2000 with Saturday and Sunday snowshoe clinics, plus such special events as Snowshoe the Rockies, Winter Trails Weekend, and A Walk in the Park, which provides an opportunity to try snowshoeing. During the first years, this event was staged in downtown Estes Park, but with recent Chamber of Commercew changes, it could move. It is a good supplement to the ranger-led snowshoe excursions within Rocky Mountain National Park. For location and schedules, call (800) 44-ESTES.

Although Winter Trails Day (see page XX) is held across the North American snowbelt, nowhere is the event bigger than in Rocky Mountain National Park. Elsewhere in the country, it is scheduled for mid-January, but the event held in the park is major enough to deserve its own spot on the calendar. It is scheduled for a mid-February weekend and is the best opportunity to get a broad-stroke introduction to snowshoeing and to the park’s winter facilities. Featured activities include guided snowshoe hikes, winter safety presentations, orienteering demonstrations, a children’s scavenger hunt, outdoor product demonstrations, and free use of snowshoes from various manufacturers. In addition, door prizes are given, discount coupons to Estes Park businesses are dispensed, and free advice on selection and sizing of snowshoes is offered. For more information, contact Rocky Mountain National Park, or log on to www.wintertrails.org. Winter Trails Day.

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avalanche hazards before exploring the highest terrain.

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Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side Bear Lake Rd. Trails The generous size of the Bear Lake parking area, and the overflow lots that you’ll pass on your way in, provide inanimate but eloquent witness to the popularity of this section of the park in the summer—and increasingly in winter as well. Little wonder, for the views of the soaring summits with scooped-out bowls on their glaciated flanks, small remnant glaciers that continue their geological task to this day, and pristine mountain lakes within easy hiking distance of the parking areas are matchless in their appeal. In winter, however, lofty Longs Peak (at 14,259 feet, the highest mountain on the Front Range) presides over a less trafficked but no less beautiful area. The Bear Lake trails, at the end of the newly rebuilt road, offer the most consistent snow cover on the park’s east side. Reliable cover on some of the lower

trails, including those around Sprague Lake and Bierstadt Lake, is not quite so predictable, especially during the early or late season or in lean snow years. One caveat is that the Bear Lake area, even at the parking lot, can be raked by fierce winds, so if you pick a route, have a backup plan if the weather feels just too raw to get out of your vehicle. Be sure to pick up a free winter trail map at the visitor center to clarify the dense web of trails between Hollowell Park and the Bear Lake area. The park service has marked some trails with small orange squares affixed to the trees and designated them on the map as “marked cross-country ski trails.” Others are summer trails that are unmarked but quite easy to follow—except perhaps after a heavy snowfall. These are shown on the map simply as “trails.”

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Park rangers lead first-time snowshiers on an introductory walk at Hidden Valley. Tours also are given at other Rocky Mountain National Park sites.(Photo by Claire Walter)

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■ Moderate Distance • 1.8 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,390 feet Highest elevation • 9,000 feet Elevation difference • 610 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park

This mellow saucer, part of the larger Glacier Basin, was logged by humans and by beavers, which continue to work Mill Creek. It is pretty and expansive and connects nicely to other trails. To reach the trailhead, drive 3.5 miles past the turnoff onto Bear Lake Rd. and turn right into the well-marked parking area, a few hundred feet down the road. Hollowell Park (“park” being a Western synonym for “valley”) shows nature in action. As the trail runs west toward Mill Creek Basin, it passes through open areas where bushes poke out of the snow and stands of aspen and lodgepole pines have grown since long-ago logging days. For a pleasant and steady, but undemanding hike, turn around at the junction to the Mill Creek Basin Trail and return the way you came.

If You Want a Longer Hike. You can

also make several longer, more challenging excursions. One is to continue 0.6 mile along a glacial moraine to the junction with a smaller trail to Bierstadt Lake. This trail branches to the left, continuing to the lake about 0.4 mile farther on. The lake offers grandiose views of Flattop Mountain, Hallett Peak, and Longs Peak to the south, and it is possible to circle the lake on snowshoes. If you want to explore the network of trails around Bierstadt Lake, take a map and compass, because the area can be confusing, especially in winter when the lake is frozen and the snow cover hides rocks and other landmarks. You can also combine either Bear Lake and Bierstadt Lake, or Bierstadt Lake and Hollowell Park, as a one-way hike with a car shuttle. From Bierstadt Lake, it’s 1.5 miles of steep, twisting trail down to the Bierstadt Lake trailhead along the Bear Lake Rd. (see Bierstadt Lake from Bear Lake Trail, page 58). Longer but easier is the trail to the Glacier Basin parking area. Another option in this trail-laced section of the park, again with a car shuttle, is a longer route southwestward from the Bear Lake parking lot all the way to Hollowell Park, which measures out to 4 miles, with a 250-foot elevation gain and a 1,380-foot descent. If you want real exercise, snowshoe from Hollowell Park to Bear Lake, which, considering the trail length and elevation gain, cannot be considered a casual excursion.

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Trail 8 HOLLOWELL PARK

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Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side Trail 9 BIERSTADT LAKE FROM BEAR LAKE ● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 2.1 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,480 feet Highest elevation • 9,770 feet (along the trail) Lowest elevation • 9,430 feet (at Bierstadt Lake) Elevation difference • 240 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park

This is one of the park’s most popular winter trails. No wonder. It is accessible, easy to follow, beautiful, and a satisfying workout. Start at the huge, paved parking lot at the end of Bear Lake Rd., where you will find restrooms and a small ranger station, new in 2004. The wellmarked trailhead (Trail 9) is on the south end of the lot. Begin by skirting the east shore of Bear Lake and take the trail that climbs to the northeast. The first part, which ascends the Bierstadt Moraine, is wide, very well used and well packed, so conditions are usually quite good. For experienced snowshoers, the ascent from the trailhead is trivial, but for new snowshoers or lowland dwellers it can feel challenging. Just when you might feel that you are running out of steam, the route turns into a gently undulating trail for just over a mile down toward the lake. The nicely wooded trail opens up periodically to display a succession of mountain portraits and panoramas, an everchanging exhibit as you proceed on your hike. When you reach Bierstadt Lake, you can snowshoe around it and return the way you came.

If You Want a Longer Hike. Make a car shuttle of the trip and continue down to the Bierstadt Lake trailhead along Bear Lake Rd. or on to Hollowell Park (see separate route descriptions, Trails 8 and 11), where a second vehicle must be left.

Big trees, soft snow, and an absence of summer crowds make for fantastic snowshoeing in Rocky Mountain National Park. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

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● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 3.3 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,620 feet Highest elevation • 8,740 feet Lowest elevation • 8,570 feet (Glacier Creek) Elevation difference • 170 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park

An extensive web of unplowed roads, marked and signed ski trails, and summer hiking trails essentially parallels both the creek and Bear Lake Rd. In addition to the Sprague Lake Trail circuit, they can be combined into several other short, appealing loops. Stop at the visitor center for the winter trail map, which helps with orientation of the Sprague Lake/Glacier Basin area. To reach the excellent winter trails, as well as free-form opportunities to explore meadows and beaver ponds, continue 5.3 miles from the Bear Lake Rd. turn-off to the large, restroom-equipped Glacier Basin parking area on the west side of the road. To reach the Sprague Lake trails, cross the road and walk across the bridge, entering the quiet incarnation of a busy summer camping and picnic area. When you cross the Glacier Basin Campground, the best access points to the Sprague Lake are from the Group Camping Area, Site 12, and from Site 94 of the main campground. The woods open into what in summer is a somewhat marshy area, but in winter you can snowshoe among the willows and watch the unfolding panorama of Emerald Mountain, Giant Track Mountain, Rams Horn, and Lily Mountain from various sections.

Sprague Lake is an enhanced feature set amid the natural splendor of Glacier Basin, a huge bowl carved by ice and scoured by rock. In 1910, five years before Rocky Mountain National Park was established, Abner and Alberta Sprague opened the Sprague Lodge. Hoping to offer good fishing, they built a small dam to create the current 13-acre Sprague Lake in a low spot of Glacier Basin. The main winter trail around the lake is a loop that starts at and returns to the campground. You can snowshoe in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction from the campground, which lies near the northeast corner of the Sprague Lake loop trail, undulating gently through a forest of tall pines. Intermittent views include Taylor Peak, Otis Peak, Hallett Peak, Flattop Mountain, and Notchtop Mountain to the east. At a trail junction at the far eastern end of the loop, where the Sprague Lake loop meets the Boulder Brook summer trail, take the sharp right if you are hiking clockwise or the sharp left if you are going counterclockwise. (If you were to continue going straight, you would reach Glacier Gorge Junction in 2.4 miles.) The Sprague Lake loop trail is at the closest point to the lake close to midway along its northern section. If You Want a Shorter Hike. The Sprague

Lake trails are rather flat, so this part of the park is a fine choice if you’re not up to much challenge or have small children along— although the full distance may make it too much for many youngsters. Hug the shoreline and circle the lake on an easy 0.5-mile trail, which in summer is a handicapped-accessible nature trail. It is an easy snowshoe route when snow is adequate, but if cover at the shoreline is sparse, move to a more sheltered route. In

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Trail 10 SPRAGUE LAKE FROM GLACIER BASIN PARKING AREA

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Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side any case, crossing Sprague Lake is not recommended, even if the ice does appear solid. You can also approach Sprague Lake by two shorter and easier ways, though parking pullouts are extremely limited. From Bear Lake Rd., the easiest option of all is via a short spur trail from the parking pullout on the left, about 0.3 mile beyond the Glacier Basin parking area. It leads to the northwestern end of the lake with minimal elevation change. It is a lovely and gentle snowshoe stroll that even the youngest child can manage, even when coupled with a circuit of the lake’s little nature trail. For a little more than this most modest walk, but less than the 3-mile loop from the Glacier Basin parking area around the lake, you can take a short connector trail that is actually the beginning of the Boulder Brook Trail. Across Bear Lake Rd. from the Bierstadt Lake trailhead, it is easy to follow, angling toward the southeast and soon crossing the main ski trail. When it does this, bear left (east) and take the left of the two marked ski trails to the lake. If You Want a Longer Hike. The Sprague Lake area provides many other opportunities for exploration as well as longer routes. The connecting trails to Glacier Gorge Junction (2.4 miles) and on to Bear Lake (.6 mile) are an obvious choice. These popular year-round routes are marked and signed for easy winter use. The Sprague Lake–Bear Lake trail contours along a wooded hillside paralleling Glacier Creek. It is a straightforward route, with just a few generous bends and a short windy stretch at Prospect Canyon. A mild ascent from Glacier Gorge Junction takes you to Bear Lake, and you can make a longer loop by adding the Bear Lake-Bierstadt Lake route (2.1 miles) and returning to the Glacier Basin parking lot (1.5 miles). See the following trail descriptions.

Trail 11 BIERSTADT LAKE FROM BEAR LAKE RD. ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 1 mile (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,900 feet Highest elevation • 9,430 feet Elevation difference • 530 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park

This short, direct, and challenging trail begins at a modest parking pullout on the right side of Bear Lake Rd., 6.7 miles beyond Beaver Meadows. It is too steep for most skiers, both on the climb and descent, so snowshoers tend to have it to themselves. Because it faces south, it’s also a good choice on a chilly day, but if the chill has followed a warm, dry spell, there are places where the snow might be spotty. This route is ideal if you want to climb and descend instead of meander, but you can also combine it into a car shuttle excursion with Hollowell Park, Glacier Basin, Bear Lake, or other options not covered in this section. A winter trail map, available at the visitors center, can provide some suggestions and help make sense out of the web of trails. From the trailhead, follow the clearly marked trail up a series of switchbacks that climb stiffly and steadily up the Bierstadt Moraine’s south slope. The trail loops along a wonderful aspen forest, regrowth from a century-ago fire, and then enters a deeper, primarily lodgepole forest that surrounds the lake. When you reach the intersection with the Bear Lake Trail, which comes in from the left (west), you are getting near the lake. Bear right (east) at that intersection and you’ll soon reach the lake.

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■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 1.6 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,620 feet Highest elevation • 9,430 feet Elevation difference • 810 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park

From a trailhead at the west end of the large Glacier Basin parking area, 6.4 miles past Beaver Meadows, snowshoe steadily along a moderately steep trail to Bierstadt Lake, ascending the east end of the Bierstadt Moraine. This is the pretty and well-forested eastern end of the Glacier Basin–Bierstadt Lake–Bear Lake route. It first winds through a mixed aspen-conifer forest. After a short distance, a connector from the Bear Lake Rd. pullout joins in from the left. The main trail traverses the slope with intermittent clearings that offer fine panoramic views of Estes Cone, Battle Mountain, Mt. Lady Washington, the north face of Longs Peak, and Storm Peak. The view recedes as the trees close in, with the aspens giving way to ponderosa and lodgepole pines for the rest of the way to the lake. The trail trends to the southwest, alternating flat sections and ascents. At 1.6 miles, this route intersects with the trail from Hollowell Park. Bear left to the east end of Bierstadt Lake, just a few hundred feet away. Above its glassy frozen surface are Hallett Peak, Flattop Mountain, and other high summits of Rocky Mountain National Park.

Trail 13 MILLS LAKE ■ Moderate Distance • 2.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to moderate Starting elevation • 9,240 feet Highest elevation • 9,940 feet Elevation difference • 700 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park

Take Bear Lake Rd. to the Glacier Gorge Junction. Park at a new parking area, 8.5 miles from Beaver Meadows. Start walking southwest on a new spur trail to the Glacier Gorge Junction trailhead sign. At the fork, bear left (south), cross a bridge over Chaos Creek at the next fork, then bear right (southeast). For beginning snowshoers or the unacclimatized, follow the summer trail signs to shimmering Alberta Falls, on your left about 0.6 mile from the trailhead, which is a nice destination in itself. The trail beyond is generally well used in winter and is wide and clear to follow. It heads south/southwest, again crossing Chaos Creek, passing a grove of stunted aspen trees, snowcovered beaver ponds, and a bushy area of low-slung willows before going into the forest. About 1 mile from the trailhead, bear right at the trail fork. The trail then curves to the right (west). After 0.3 mile, you will come to a wellmarked, four-way intersection. The right trail heads toward Lake Haiyaha, the trail straight ahead goes to the Loch, and the left one, which you want, heads to Mills Lake. Your main landmark is a geologic protrusion called Glacier Knobs on your right. The trail parallels Glacier Creek and bends to the left, and 0.6 mile from the four-way trail junction, you will pass though a deep forest of fir and spruce and up two steep sections along Glacier Falls

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Trail 12 BIERSTADT LAKE FROM GLACIER BASIN PARKING AREA

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Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side and thence through large boulders to Mills Lake. The dramatic views include Longs Peak’s north face and a granite formation known as the Spearhead. Return the way you came. If You Want a Longer Hike. Pass along

the eastern shore of Mills Lake for the short climb to Jewel Lake; however, if you have visions of reaching Lake Haiyaha, which seems so close from the four-way trail junction, save them for next summer. Not only is the Lake Haiyaha Trail difficult to follow in winter, but sections of it are avalanche-prone.

Trail 14 BEAR LAKE ● Easy Distance • 0.6 mile (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,440 feet Highest elevation • 9,490 feet Elevation difference • 50 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park

See page 58 for driving instructions to Bear Lake parking area, access point for one of the park’s easiest trails. The short, almost flat circumnavigation of Bear Lake is ideal for tentative beginning snowshoers or small children making their first excursion. The lake is as lovely as it is accessible, located literally steps from the parking lot. (In fact, it is often more steps from one’s car to the trailhead than from the trailhead to the lake.) You can circle the lake in either direction.

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When the cold wind picks up during a crossing of frozen Dream Lake, it’s time to put on another layer— even on a sunny and relatively mild day. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

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● ■ Easy to moderate to Nymph Lake; moderate to Dream and Emerald Lakes Distance • 0.5 mile to Nymph Lake; 1.1 miles to Dream Lake; 1.8 miles to Emerald Lake (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,440 feet Highest elevation • Nymph Lake, 9,700 feet; Dream Lake, 9,900 feet; Emerald Lake, 10,075 feet Elevation difference • Nymph Lake, 260 feet; Dream Lake, 460 feet; Emerald Lake, 635 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park

This daisy chain of three lovely mountain lakes nestled in snow-shrouded basins makes a wonderful snowshoe excursion. It is possible to tailor the length and challenge of the hike by taking in one, two, or all three of these lakes. From the main trailhead at the Bear Lake parking area, pass the information signs and bear left, soon taking a substantial trail that angles up and to the right (west), while the main wide route drops down to the left into Glacier Gorge Junction. The route as far as Nymph Lake is straightforward, but if you want to go farther, there are some tricky spots to avoid, such as the possible slide paths between Nymph and Dream Lakes. Snowshoers and skiers who have come before you often will have blazed the route. Experienced winter travelers in this section of the park tend to stay close to the streambed or even on the frozen stream itself. If you have any doubts about the route, check at the visitors center or information station at the Bear Lake parking lot before starting your hike.

The trail ascends gently through the pine forest, then steepens as it ascends a knoll at Nymph Lake, just 0.5 mile and 260 vertical feet from the trailhead. By itself, this is quite an easy excursion into a lovely little valley that offers good views of Flattop Mountain and Hallett Peak, providing a visual taste of this part of Rocky Mountain National Park. This is a fine destination, even without continuing to the two other lakes. If you do wish to go on (as most snowshoers do), the trail curves around along the north side of Nymph Lake, deviating from the summer trail for the next leg to Dream Lake, 1.3 miles and 385 vertical feet beyond. To continue on the winter route, go to the northwest end of the lake and find a route through a dense forest of lodgepole pines. Usually there will be tracks to follow. If there aren’t, turn back, because this trail is unmarked and crosses some slide areas. The trees open up here and there to provide occasional views of Longs Peak. To avoid the avalanche paths, be sure to follow the trail that jogs to the south and then back up to the north before straightening out and heading west again as it climbs to Dream Lake, 1.1 miles and 460 vertical feet from the trailhead. If the Hallett and Flattop views are good from Nymph Lake, they are great from Dream Lake. To continue to Emerald Lake, pass on the north side of Dream Lake and cross the lake to edge along the south side of a deep valley called Tyndall Gorge. When you get to a large boulder field, cross over to the north side of the gorge for the final leg to the lake. From any of these three lakes, return the way you came.

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Trail 15 NYMPH, DREAM, AND EMERALD LAKES

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Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side Trails on the Northeast Side of the Park These secluded trails within or adjacent to the northeast section of Rocky Mountain National Park are especially convenient for snowshoers from Loveland, Fort Collins, Greeley, and neighboring towns.

Trail 16 BRIDAL VEIL FALLS TRAIL ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 3.1 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 7,820 feet Highest elevation • 8,840 feet (base of Bridal Veil Falls) Elevation difference • 1,020 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park

There are two options for reaching this hidden corner of Rocky Mountain National Park located outside the fee area. One choice is to take U.S. 34 from the U.S. 34/36 intersection in Estes Park and turn right (north) onto McGregor Ranch Rd. after the Stanley Hotel. As you pass the road to the Twin Owls trailhead, the main road bends sharply to the right and continues past the Gem Lake trailhead. The road changes names and becomes Devil’s Gulch Rd. The well-marked turnoff to McGraw Ranch is on your left, 6 miles from the highway intersection. The other option, which makes sense from Fort Collins or Loveland, is to take U.S. 34 and turn right to Glen Haven. Continue on the unpaved road, which becomes Devil’s Gulch Rd., for a total of 11.5 miles from the highway, and turn right to McGraw Ranch. This former guest ranch is being turned into a study and environmental center for Rocky Mountain National Park. No entrance fee is

charged for use of this part of the park. Small children will enjoy snowshoeing around the old ranch cabins, and beginning snowshoers can get the feel of their equipment by walking around on the wide, snow-covered meadows. The trail to Bridal Veil Falls at the west side of the ranch complex follows due west along Cow Creek, ascending gently through open fields. After 1 mile, you will pass the junction with a trail to Lumpy Ridge and Gem Lake on the left. Where the trail divides, take the right fork, which angles to the northwest and climbs a little more aggressively through the woods. There are several dips and rises as the route crosses small streams that drain into Cow Creek. Just after you pass a snowed-over corral and hitching area, the trail gets significantly steeper. At that point, you are only 0.3 mile from the frozen waterfall. Many snowshoers prefer to turn around rather than climb up the steep, rocky slope to the falls. Return the way you came.

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■ ◆ Moderate to Dunraven Park; challenging to RMNP boundary Distance • 2 miles (one way) via Bulwark Ridge to Duraven Park; 4.1 miles to RMNP boundary Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 7,930 feet Highest elevation • 8,160 feet (at Dunraven Park); 8,940 (at Rocky Mountain National Park boundary Lowest elevation • 7,715 feet Elevation difference • 230 feet (to Dunraven Park); 1,010 feet (to RMNP boundary); add 200 feet lost and regained if dropping down to the creek in either direction Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Leashed (as far as RMNP boundary; prohibited in the park) Maps • Trails Illustrated #101, Cache la Poudre, Big Thompson; Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS 7.5-Minute, Glen Haven

From Estes Park, take Route 43 (Devil’s Gulch Rd.) to the northeast past Glen Haven, or from Lyons, take U.S. 34 west toward Glen Haven and turn right onto Route 43 at Drake. Follow unpaved Larimer County 43 to Larimer County 518 for about 2 miles to a large parking area on the left at the end of the road. This is marked as the Dunraven trailhead parking area. Direct access to the Comanche Peak Wilderness and the North Fork Trail (Forest Service Trail #929) is from the south side of the parking area near the restrooms. A wider road up Bulwark Ridge that passes a summer resort is through a metal gate at the west side of the parking area and is farther from the wilderness boundary. You can use either route

both on the outbound hike and on the return, or make a loop by starting your hike on one trail and ending it with the other. Both routes connect to form the North Fork Trail that continues to your destination, the remnants of the deserted resort village in a valley called Dunraven Park, and eventually on to Rocky Mountain National Park if you so chose. Begin at the Bulwark Ridge Trail with an ascent straight up a wide road flanked by pines and aspens. In low snow years, this section might be snowfree, requiring you to carry your snowshoes for some distance. The trail crests just before the Comanche Peak Wilderness boundary sign. Proceed straight through a lodgepole gate and drop into the valley of the North Fork of the Big Thompson River. Deep in the valley, you will pass several buildings of a rustic resort complex. This trail travels through private property, so be sure to stay on the main route. Go around the small rodeo area and continue your descent. At a wooden gate, you will reach the junction of the narrower North Fork Trail. Bear right in the direction of the Rocky Mountain National Park boundary and Lost Lake. Begin climbing again and enter the Comanche Peaks Wilderness. The trail ascends gently, and as the woods deepen, so does the snow cover. If you encounter an icy stretch of trail before you reach a spring on the right of the trail, you will appreciate your snowshoes’ gripping talons. The valley first narrows into a chasm, with the stream on your left, and then widens as the trail crosses the steam over a wooden bridge into a valley dominated by huge pine trees, where the trail skirts a forested hillside. You will see a summer sign directing horses to the right and foot traffic to the left. Take the left option and cross the streambed again over another wooden bridge. The valley then opens

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Trail 17 NORTH FORK TRAIL (DUNRAVEN TRAIL)

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Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side to a large open area, the ghost of a hunting resort developed by the Earl of Dunraven. It was abandoned in the early 20th century, reportedly following an outbreak of dysentery, but one cabin remains (on the left of the open area) from the old resort, which might be marked as Dunraven Park on some maps, Deserted Village on others, and not at all on still others. Turn around here and retrace your route. At the Bulwark Ridge Trail/North Fork Trail junction, you can return the way you came or bear right onto the latter trail, which leads past down along the cliffy valley cut by the North Fork of the Big Thompson before making a sharp right up a steep, wooded hillside back to the Dunraven Trailhead parking area. If You Want a Longer Hike. Continue straight past Dunraven Park for 0.5 miles and stay on the North Fork Trail to Rocky Mountain National Park boundary after another 1.3 miles—a total of 4.1 miles from the trailhead. The trail threads through a dense forest and is very secluded. If you decide to continue, remember that dogs are prohibited in the park. After another 0.75 mile, you will reach the junction of the North Boundary Trail and a seasonal ranger patrol cabin.

Wild Basin Trails While summer sightseers from all over the world drive over Trail Ridge Rd. and up to Bear Lake, Wild Basin is primarily visited by hikers and other backcountry users. It is tucked into Rocky Mountain National Park’s southeast corner, with a seasonal ranger station that is closed in winter and no other facilities for casual tourists. In winter, much of the access road itself becomes part of a network of 88 excellent miles of backcountry routes. Some of these are arduous and head into areas of known avalanche activity, but several offer first-rate snowshoeing with little snowslide hazard. GETTING THERE From Estes Park, take CO 7

south for 13 miles. Turn right at the well-marked road to the Sandbeach Lake and W ild Basin trailheads. After 0.4 mile, you will reach Copeland Lake, where you will find the Sandbeach Lake trailhead. For other routes, continue on the road, which is normally plowed beyond the west end of Copeland Lake. The Deerhaven winter parking area and trailhead are just before the road crosses the North St. Vrain River, roughly 1 mile before the Wild Basin summer parking area and trailhead. Although these trails are all within the park, the Wild Basin trails are outside the fee area in winter.

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◆ Challenging Distance • 4.2 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,310 feet Highest elevation • 10,280 feet Elevation difference • 1,970 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS 7.5Minute, Allens Park

As you drive the 0.4 mile from the highway to the parking area at the east end of Copeland Lake, you might wonder what kind of wilderness experience to expect, because of the buildings that line the road. But they recede quickly as you begin snowshoeing to the northeast and the demands of the ascent take your attention. The initial climb up a glacial moraine is very steep, and fans of this trail often say if you can do the first few hundred yards, the rest is a walk in the park—and so it is, literally and figuratively, for the remainder of the trail through this lightly used corner of Rocky Mountain National Park. At the start, the trail switchbacks severely and steepens considerably for a short distance. After that, it heads west more gently, which is the prevailing direction and nature of the rest of the route. It is sporadically marked with orange squares.

This initial part of the trail angles up the moraine. You’ll know that you’re at the top of the moraine when you reach a junction with the Meeker Park Trail, meaning that you have completed the toughest 700 feet of elevation gain in only about one-quarter of the distance to Sandbeach Lake. If the snow is sparse, you might encounter some bare spots on this lower portion, but after that the trail enters the trees, snow cover usually remains consistent through most winters. The trail dips to cross first Campers Creek and soon Hunters Creek. After a short, steep section, it flattens out again until you reach Sandbeach Lake. Because this is a long, challenging out-and-back trail, many snowshoers don’t make it all the way, but if you do, you’ll be rewarded by dramatic views of 13,991-foot Mt. Meeker directly to the north, the Wild Basin summits arrayed in an arc before you, and the beautiful Indian Peaks to the south. Return the way you came.

Going off-trail safely is possible in some sections of Rocky Mountain National Park, but a map is mandatory—as is current information on avalanche hazards. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

Snowshoeing

Trail 18 SANDBEACH LAKE TRAIL

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Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side Trail 19 WILD BASIN RD. ● Easy Distance • 1 mile (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,320 feet Highest elevation • 8,500 feet Elevation difference • 180 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS 7.5Minute, Allens Park, Wild Basin

To access anything beyond the Wild Basin summer parking area requires this gentle walk of about a mile past the Deerhaven winter closure at the Finch Lake trailhead to get to the final set of trailheads at the seasonal ranger station and to the longer, more challenging trails beyond. Experienced snowshoers get it over with as soon as possible, but this wide road through the trees is easy to follow and makes a fine out-and-back route for beginners, those unaccustomed to the altitude, families with small children, or anyone who just wants to get out for a short hike. A more scenic, but slightly slower, alternative is to follow the horse trail above the road from the winter closure to the Wild Basin summer trailhead. The horse trail often offers better snow conditions as well.

Trail 20 CALYPSO CASCADES AND OUZEL FALLS ■ ◆ Moderate to Calypso Cascades; challenging to Ouzel Falls Distance • 2.8 miles to Calypso Cascades; 3.7 miles to Ouzel Falls (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to Calypso Cascades; moderate in burn area Starting elevation • 8,320 feet (8,500 feet at the Wild Basin Ranger Station) Highest elevation • Calypso Cascades, 9,200 feet; Ouzel Falls, 9,450 feet Elevation difference • 880 feet to Calypso Cascades; 1,130 feet to Ouzel Falls Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS 7.5Minute, Allens Park, Wild Basin

Start by snowshoeing along the Wild Basin Rd. from the winter parking area to the summer parking area at the Wild Basin picnic area and ranger station. The official trailhead at the summer parking area is well marked. Begin your hike by crossing over the Hunters Creek bridge and head steadily southwestward on the Thunder Lake Trail, which passes through a sheltered valley. The ascent here is gradual, steepening after the Sandbeach Creek crossing, about 0.8 mile from the Wild Basin trailhead. Two miles from the trailhead, the route becomes a little steeper and then makes two sharp switchbacks before a bridge over Ouzel Creek that provides a view of Calypso Cascades’ icy waterfalls.

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If you want a longer hike —and if the snow is not too deep for comfortable snowshoeing and the avalanche report is favorable—you can continue on to Ouzel Falls through some of the park’s most dramatic acreage. After Calypso Cascades, the trail parallels the North St. Vrain River. It steepens and climbs to a dramatic moonscape of trees charred in a massive forest fire in 1978. To the right (northwest) are Longs Peak and Mt. Meeker. About a mile past the burn area you reach another bridge. On the left are the huge granite rock walls that channel the stream into the valley you’ve just ascended. The Allenspark Trail (Trail 23) provides an alternative route to Calypso Cascades and Ouzel Falls that eliminates the slog up the Wild Basin Rd.

This small community, originally a mining camp and later a colony of summer homes, nestles against Roosevelt National Forest just southeast of Rocky Mountain National Park. There are still plenty of seasonal log cabins and wood cottages to give Allenspark and neighboring Ferncliff a rustic look and, with the abundance of horses in barns and corrals, a rural flavor. It is astonishing to find such a remote country ambience just 32 miles from busy Boulder. In summer, the population skyrockets from 800 or so to more than 3,000, and there’s a bit of a buzz, but in winter this area slumbers. Four-wheel-drive roads become excellent and little-trafficked winter recreation trails. GETTING THERE Access from the Peak-to-

Peak Hwy. is the Hwy. 7 Business Loop. From Lyons or Estes Park, bear right at the wellmarked intersection to Ferncliff. From Nederland or Ward, go left at the intersection. Proceed on the unpaved road, called East Ski Rd. (at this writing, the road sign was missing) and turn left again at the T-junction with Ski Rd. (Boulder County Road 107). Alter natively, drive 1.4 miles on the Fer ncliffAllenspark road and turn left directly onto Ski Rd., an unpaved, winding road that narrows to one lane for a shor t distance. You can also follow Hwy. 7 (the Peak-to-Peak Hwy.) south 18.6 miles from Estes Park. Bear right at the road to Allenspark and Fer ncliff, turn right after 0.2 mile onto Ski Rd. (Boulder County Road 107) and then proceed as described above. Snow conditions and your vehicle will determine how far you can drive. If you can, drive as far as the sign for Rock Creek and St. Vrain Mountain.

Snowshoeing

Allenspark Trails

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Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side Trail 21 ROCK CREEK RD. ◆ Challenging Distance • 3.1 miles (one way) (1.4 miles to the former ski area, plus 1.7 miles above ski area) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • Approximately 8,580 feet (1.4 miles below former ski area) Highest elevation • 10,600 feet Elevation difference • 2,020 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS 7.5Minute, Allens Park

This route, in Roosevelt National Forest but close to Rocky Mountain National Park, has a “movable trailhead,” and your starting elevation depends on the snow depth, the condition of the road, your vehicle, and your experience in, and appetite for, snow driving. The road (Forest Road 116) is not plowed past the last residence, about 0.3 mile before the Rock Creek/St. Vrain Mountain Trail sign, which must be considered the winter trailhead. Sometimes you can drive as far as the sign, where you will find a few side-of-the-road spots to park. In any case, snowshoe left (southwest) at the fork in the road, following the branch that parallels Rock Creek. In lean snow years you may be able to drive this stretch, perhaps to the hairpin turn just beyond the ghost of the long-abandoned Rock Creek Ski Area, which provides a wide pullout/turnaround area with enough space for a couple of vehicles—or one beefy trailer-towing SUV or truck. This unplowed, unpaved road leads to, but is not within, the boundaries of Rocky Mountain National Park; snowmobiles are permitted.

Except after new snow, conditions along the lower portion of the Rock Creek Rd. can be uneven, with deep tire ruts, snow chunks, and some icy sections, which provide less than pleasant shoeing conditions but really make you appreciate the versatility of snowshoes. After about a mile, you’ll probably find conditions much improved: powder after a snowfall, and a soft, packed surface days after a storm. The road climbs consistently up the valley with steep pine-covered hills on both sides, but you can also occasionally see Meadow Mountain and St. Vrain Mountain to the west and north. After about 1.7 miles, the route steepens and twists into a series of switchbacks, and the snow gets smoother—a good turnaround spot. As you approach the end of the Rock Creek Rd., the trees are more widely spaced, there is less evidence of previous traffic, and the view opens. This out-and-back route enables you to turn around whenever you wish, and with the steep grade and significant elevation gain, most snowshoers don’t go the distance. The challenging steady climb provides a gliding reward for touring skiers, so be prepared to move to the side of the route on your descent when skiers are coming down behind you. If You Want a Longer Hike. Several summer trails and logging roads branch off from the main Rock Creek route, and you might see tracks made by snowshoers and skiers who have explored some of these options. At 2.4 miles, for example, you will reach a major junction with the Rock Creek Saddle Trail to Peaceful Valley, 1.8 miles away. If you go the distance to a high bowl 3.1 miles and more than 2,000 vertical feet from the trailhead, the elevation gain alone makes it a very challenging snowshoe hike.

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◆ Challenging Distance • 3.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low below the Meadow Mountain bowl; high above it Starting elevation • 8,580 feet Highest elevation • 11,200 feet Elevation difference • 2,620 feet Snowmobiles • Yes (to Indian Peaks Wilderness boundary); prohibited in the wilderness and Rocky Mountain National Park Dogs • Leashed and permitted only in lower section (to RMNP boundary; prohibited in the park) Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS 7.5Minute, Allens Park

The St. Vrain Mountain Trail (Forest Service Trail #915) can be jokingly considered as the Rock Creek Rd.’s evil twin: longer, steeper, more challenging, and generally much windier. Access to this trail is the same as for Rock Creek except that you bear right at the Rock Creek/St. Vrain Mountain sign when on foot or, if snow is sparse, continue driving another 0.5 mile to a large summer parking area. However you reach the trailhead, the route starts with a climb right after the sign, and it doesn’t ever really become moderate. After a few tight bends in the road close to the trailhead, the route changes from a summer road of about half a mile in length to a summer hiking trail, marked with an Indian Peaks Wilderness sign. The snow conditions mirror Rock Creek Rd.’s—often unappealing near the bottom, improving in the midsection, and silky on the less traveled upper portions.

Snowshoeing

If—and only if—you have excellent stamina, your off-trail ability is strong, and weather and snow conditions are prime, you can also continue beyond the most-used section of the route to the East Ridge of St. Vrain Mountain. The Rocky Mountain National Park boundary is on the saddle between Meadow and St. Vrain Mountains. This little-traveled, 1.5-mile upper route curves first northwest, then north, then northeast, to connect the Rock Creek Trail to St. Vrain Mountain Trail. The grade is moderate, but there is nothing else easy about it. It is high and exposed to wind, which makes for difficult route finding and sometimes packs the snow into concrete hardness or blows sections clear of snow. Visibility can be a problem due to running ground blizzards. If new snow drifts or piles up, it also requires good endurance for breaking trail as well as route-finding ability to figure out where the trail should be. It goes without saying that avalanche-awareness is a must up here. This hike is definitely not for casual users. Some winter adventurers also climb to the top of one or both mountains, but the higher you go, the riskier the conditions can be.

Trail 22 ST. VRAIN MOUNTAIN TRAIL

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Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side This straightforward climb continues almost due west for nearly a mile before entering Rocky Mountain National Park. It becomes steeper and virtually makes a 90-degree turn to the left (south) where the trees begin to thin. The trail then makes another sharp turn, nearly a switchback, to the right (northwest), across the head of a large basin. See the Rock Creek Rd. description (Trail 21) for more information on continuing on this saddle, which is also the boundary to Rocky Mountain National Park. Remember, if you are snowshoeing after a snowstorm or any time that avalanche hazards are reported in this region, it is imperative to turn around below the bowl.

Trail 23 ALLENSPARK TRAIL ◆ Challenging Distance • 3.7 miles to Calypso Cascades; 4.4 miles to Ouzel Falls (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to Calypso Cascades; moderate in burn area Starting elevation • 8,640 feet (approximate elevation of water treatment plant) Highest elevation • 9,700 feet (along the trail) Elevation difference • 1,060 feet; 500-foot loss to Calypso Cascades Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS 7.5Minute, Allens Park

To avoid the trudge up Wild Basin Rd., you can opt for this longer but more interesting route to the Calypso Cascades and Ouzel Falls area. To reach the trailhead, take Hwy. 7 to the Allenspark turnoff, continue 0.1 mile to the post office and drive west on Triple Creek Rd., which climbs above town to the Allenspark Trail–Finch Lake trailhead at the Rocky Mountain National Park boundary. Pull off the road if the parking area is not plowed. The mostly moderate trail, with only a few steep sections as it angles northwestward through tall and sheltering trees, intersects with several others, so you can really mix and match routes, including Wild Basin, Finch Lake, and Calypso Cascades. If Calypso Cascades is your destination, you have two practical options. The first is to bear right (north) 0.8 mile from the trailhead for a short distance and then left (west) at the intersection with the Allenspark–Wild Basin Trail. You will pass another junction to a trail to the Meadow Mountain Girl Scout Camp, but this is private land, so stay on the main trail. The second and

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slightly more direct route is to continue on the Allenspark–Finch Lake Trail for 1.2 miles to the junction with a second trail that descends approximately 1.5 miles toward Calypso Cascades. The trail is never crowded (in fact, you often see no tracks at all). It is marked with diamond tabs on the trees, and both snow and weather are known to be variable and can range from deep snow in drift zones to almost nothing on bare (or near-bare) stretches of trail. This area can be very windy, but it does offer great views of Longs Peak and Mt. Meeker. If avalanche conditions are unfavorable, enjoy the route as far as this overlook, then return the way you came. If the snowpack is reported stable, go left (west) at this junction and continue up the trail past a couple of switchbacks and to Calypso Cascades, where the trail merges with the main trail system. You can also continue through the burn area to Ouzel Falls (Trail 20) as long as snow conditions are reported to be stable. It is, of course, feasible to do this as a car shuttle with a return to Wild Basin, which would eliminate the 1.5mile uphill climb back to the ridge above Allenspark. If You Want a Longer Hike. If snow and weather conditions and stamina permit, you can continue about 2 miles from Finch Lake to Pear Lake.

When the parking area at the Brainard Lake Trailhead (see pages 76–77) is jammed and the trails are crowded, Peaceful Valley offers an increasingly popular alternative, so much so that parking can be problematic on weekends. It provides direct access to the congenial lower section of the Buchanan Pass Trail, a winter incarnation of a summer trail that makes a pleasant snowshoe hike just off the highway and very close to Boulder, Loveland, and Lyons. This trail also intersects with the North Sourdough Trail, which, in turn, connects with the Brainard Lake trails system (page 76). Peaceful Valley lies south/southeast of Rocky Mountain National Park and Allenspark, and north of Brainard Lake.

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Peaceful Valley

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Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side Trail 24 BUCHANAN PASS TRAIL ● Easy Distance • 1.4 miles (one way, to Camp Dick Campground) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,520 feet Highest elevation • 8,640 feet Elevation difference • 120 feet Snowmobiles • Not on the section of the trail described here Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain Park; USGS 7.5-Minute, Allens Park

Park at the pullout at Peaceful Valley, being careful not to park on the road or to block the winter-closure gate, and begin snowshoeing down the road to the Peaceful Valley and Camp Dick campgrounds, which are closed in winter. Pass the gate, and at the bridge over Middle St. Vrain Creek, turn left (southeast) onto the Buchanan Pass Trail (Forest Service Trail #910), which undulates gently through the trees, crossing several small tributaries and intersecting with the North Sourdough Trail after 0.7 mile. Middle St. Vrain Creek is to your right, but it is not visible from the trail. After you crest a small rise 0.5 mile farther, you will descend slightly, hike over a small bridge, and cross onto Middle St. Vrain Rd. (Boulder County Road 92) and the Camp Dick Campground. You can snowshoe around the campground, stop for a picnic, or head back to the trailhead.

You have a choice of going back the way you came or making a loop by returning on the paved but unplowed road. Parts of it usually have melted off or blown clear. Some snowshoers bushwhack between the road and the creek, while others remove their snowshoes and walk back on the asphalt. If You Want a Longer Hike. This gentle route is just the beginning of the Buchanan Pass Trail, which continues far beyond the campground, paralleling the creek. It gains almost 1,400 feet in 6.3 miles, with an elevation of nearly 10,000 feet at the Indian Peaks Wilderness boundary, which makes it a challenging snowshoe hike for anyone who goes the distance.

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Brainard Lake IF THERE’S A MORE POPULAR PLACE for snowshoeing and Nordic skiing than the Brainard Lake Recreation Area, I certainly haven’t found it. Located less than an hour’s drive from Boulder and not much farther from Denver, this outdoor playground is virtually in the backyard of the largest metropolitan area within a 600-mile radius. On busy winter weekends, it sometimes seems as if all two million people in greater Denver converge on Brainard Lake. In the warm months, it is possible to drive to, around, and beyond the lake, which many people do for RV or car camping, fishing, hiking, or sightseeing. Although the lake and its immediate surroundings accommodate this variety of recreational activities, it is also the prime gateway to the backcountry trails that lace Indian Peaks Wilderness. In winter, Brainard Lake freezes into a thick sheet of flat, windswept ice enfolded in the Indian Peaks’ panoramic embrace. This magnificent basin displays one of Colorado’s most spectacular mountain vistas, with Kiowa, Niwot Ridge, Navajo, Apache, Pawnee, and Audubon splayed across the western horizon. The Indian Peaks are more than just a pretty face. They form a portion of the Continental Divide, which is the spine of the North American continent and here is at about its easternmost point in Colorado. Only the first 2.6 miles of Brainard Lake Rd.—as far as the Brainard Lake Winter Trailhead (formerly called Red Rock Lake Trailhead)—are plowed, in effect expanding the wilderness seasonally. Most, but not all, of the winter trails from this seasonal closure lead to Brainard Lake. Blue diamond blazes affixed to the trees mark many of the most popular routes, but only until they reach the wilderness boundary. Hardcore backcountry enthusiasts use Brainard Lake as a gateway to the high mountains for ski touring, winter camping, and backcountry telemarking and snowboarding. But this wilderness area is not to be trifled with. The high, steep mountainsides offer beauty but also hazard. Some sections are in avalanche territory, so good sense dictates that anyone venturing into the high country be well equipped as well as knowledgeable about snow safety and avalanche hazards. Snowshoes, increasingly, are the devices on which people reach the deep backcountry and the high peaks, but most recreational snowshoers and skiers don’t go beyond the immediate Brainard Lake area, which is what I’ve concentrated on here. No snowmobiles or other motorized vehicles are permitted beyond the winter road closure. The barrier even makes the unplowed road into part of the trail system. Depending on how one measures, there are 30 or so miles of well-marked, well-used winter trails in and around Brainard Lake. Dogs are currently allowed on the snowshoeing trails, Brainard Lake Rd., South St. Vrain, and Sourdough trails all winter, but between December 1 and April 30 they are prohibited on ski trails from the trailhead parking area to Brainard Lake. If you wish to take your dog on any of the trails beyond Brainard Lake, you will have to use the Brainard Lake Rd. Also note that dogs must be leashed. Check with the U.S. Forest Service Boulder Ranger District for current regulations. The Forest Service and Colorado Mountain Club volunteers laid out trails for ski touring starting at or near the seasonal road closure over the years. Not surprisingly, many make excellent snowshoeing routes too, and snowshoers are now legion at and near Brainard Lake, with ever-increasing trail traffic, changes have been made. To accommodate snowshoers and to give skiers more room and protect their tracks, two snowshoe-specific trails were developed for the 1998–1999 winter season. They immediately became well used and well liked. Still, heavy use of the Brainard area by snowshoers and skiers requires accommodation, tolerance, and close attention to winter

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GETTING THERE To reach the Brainard Lake Recreation Area, follow CO 72 (Peak-toPeak Hwy.) 12 miles north from Nederland and hook a hard left onto the well-marked Brainard Lake Recreation Area. (An option from Boulder is to take Broadway nor th to Lee Hill Rd., then west up Lefthand Canyon through Ward to Hwy. 72 and a nearly immediate left to the Brainard Lake Rd.) The Brainard Lake Rd. is plowed for 2.6 miles from the turnoff, where you will find a barrier gate and several trailheads. The Red Rock Lake trailhead parking area is not adequate for weekend and holiday hordes, so unless you arrive early, be prepared to park along the road, perhaps quite far down the road from the trailheads. Also, unless policies change and the parking area is expanded, be sure to pull completely off the road to avoid being ticketed by the county sheriff for parking on the pavement. To reach Peaceful Valley, follow the Peak-to-Peak Hwy., which is CO Hwy. 7/72 south from Estes Park or Allenspark, and which is Hwy. 119/72 north from Nederland.

■ Moderate Distance • 1.8 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,060 feet Highest elevation • 10,640 feet Elevation difference • 580 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5-Minute, Ward

About 100 yards before (east of) the barrier gate at the end of the plowed section of the Brainard Lake Rd., you will see on your left (south) another metal gate, which blocks off the service road to Lefthand Reservoir (Boulder County Road 104). This unpaved, unplowed route extends southwestward and is one of the most pleasant winter tours in the Brainard area. Starting from the Lefthand Ski Trail sign, you will find the route to be wide enough to accommodate both snowshoers and skiers, and it is consequently popular with both. It is also a good choice for a night tour on a clear evening with a full moon. The very first part of the road is the most heavily traveled, since it also accesses the South Sourdough, CMC South, and Little Raven Trails. The early part also features the steepest sections, some of which are infamous because they often become windblown and dry. This comes as a surprise to first-timers on this otherwise well-covered, snow-packed route. Once you’ve made it past the steep section and the weekend traffic, it levels off into a gentle cruise until the last third of a mile or so, where snow cover can again become sparse. At 0.8 mile, the Lefthand Creek bridge is one of the route’s landmarks, as is the nearby junction with the Little Raven Trail. After that there is one more steep part, then the rest of the road is just a nice grade toward the reservoir.

Snowshoeing

Trail 25 LEFTHAND RESERVOIR RD.

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trail etiquette (see page 7–8). The Forest Service has recently redesignated several access points into the Brainard Lake area. The trailhead for the south portion of the Sourdough Trail at Rainbow Lakes Rd. is now known as Trailhead A. The Brainard Lake Winter Trailhead is Trailhead B. On the northern end of these connecting routes, the Beaver Bog Trailhead is Trailhead C, and the Beaver Reservoir Rd. is Trailhead D. These designations show up on newer maps, literature, and guidebooks.

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Brainard Lake As you approach the lake, you will pass an old quarry on the left, but it might be difficult to spot under snow. Still, you’ll know when you’re near the quarry because around that point you may find that the wind picks up just as the scenery improves. Niwot Ridge stretches straight ahead, behind the reservoir, flanked by such Indian Peaks as Kiowa, Arikaree, Navajo, Apache, Shoshoni, and Pawnee. It’s worth a bit of bushwhacking just off-trail to avoid the bare spots in order to enjoy these views. The earthen berm that contains the water is dead ahead at the end of the road, though some people make a loop around the reservoir to enjoy the scenery and click off some more mileage.

Trail 26 BRAINARD LAKE RD. ● Easy Distance • 2.2 miles (one way, to the outlet bridge) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,060 feet Highest elevation • 10,330 feet Elevation difference • 270 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5Minute, Ward

Brainard Lake Rd. (Boulder County Road 102, Forest Road 112), the easiest route in this area, is of interest to beginning snowshoers, those hiking with their dogs, or anyone trying to make time on a level surface to Brainard Lake and therefore useful when you want to reach some of the trails beyond as quickly as possible, or as a fast return if it’s late or you’re tired and not expecting great conditions. It is the (mostly) snow-covered paved road that leads west from the road barrier at the winter closure. Portions might be snow-free, which means you might find yourself shoeing along the road shoulder or to the edge of the woods, or perhaps even removing your snowshoes for a bit and walking. Just because you hike up Brainard Lake Rd. doesn’t mean that you have to go back the same way. This chapter details various options for returning to the trailhead.

FRONT RANGE Brainard Lake

● ■ Easy to Red Rock Lake; easy to moderate to CMC Cabin Distance • 1.5 miles (loop) to Red Rock Lake; 3 miles to CMC Cabin (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,060 feet Highest elevation • 10,160 feet (Red Rock Lake); 10,425 feet (CMC Cabin) Elevation difference • 100 feet (Red Rock Lake); 365 feet (CMC Cabin) Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5Minute, Ward

Brainard Lake’s dedicated snowshoeing trails were laid out by the Forest Service and cut by Colorado Mountain Club volunteers to diffuse two winter recreational activities and defuse the conflicts between cross-country skiers and snowshoers. With snowshoer trails accessible from the Brainard Lake Winter Trailhead, Little Raven has become a skier-only trail and skieronly use of CMC South is currently still voluntary. Check with the Forest Service for future regulations, which could change. In designing these trails, consideration was given not only to physically separating snowshoers and skiers in this busy and popular area but also to separating them visually. Both trails begin together at the CMC South trailhead, but along most of the snowshoe and ski routes, trail users are not able to see each other. After about 20 yards, the snowshoeing route veers off to the west, roughly paralleling the CMC South Trail. About 100 yards before

Red Rock Lake, it crosses the CMC Trail and continues to the lake, where there are fine views of the Indian Peaks. There, the snowshoe route divides into trails of two distances. The shorter route, a loop of about 1.5 miles, bends right (north) along Red Rock Lake’s east shore, then curves to the right. It comes out on the Brainard Lake Rd. close to the Waldrop trailhead. At Red Rock Lake, the longer route, which is about 3 miles one way, bears left (west) and continues along the south shore. It parallels the CMC South Trail to the Brainard Lake Cut-Off, where it bends right (north) across an open meadow to the Brainard Lake Rd. It too is an easy route, but the total round-trip distance makes it moderate for some snowshoers. Snowshoers head west on the road for about 150 yards and then pick up their trail again at a marked place on the north side of the road. It bears left (northwest) to the large clearing, which everyone calls “the big meadow,” then angles off to the west, again paralleling Brainard Lake Rd., and ascends on a long, gradual uphill to a creek crossing just below the automobile bridge at the bottom (east end) of the lake. It continues for about another mile to the CMC Brainard Cabin. You can return the way you came or cut across the north end of Brainard Lake, where you would have a choice of three routes to complete the loop. You could return via either the Brainard Lake Rd. all the way to the winter closure, the Brainard Lake Rd. to Red Rock Lake, and then the snowshoe trail back to the trailhead or the CMC South Trail to that same place.

Snowshoeing

Trail 27 CMC SNOWSHOEING TRAILS

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Brainard Lake Trail 28 CMC SOUTH TRAIL ■ Moderate Distance • 2.5 miles (one way, to the west end of Brainard Lake) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,060 feet Highest elevation • 10,380 feet Elevation difference • 320 feet, with many additional small ascents and descents Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5Minute, Ward

The CMC South Trail (Forest Service 814) was cut as a ski-touring trail in the 1970s by volunteers from the Colorado Mountain Club’s Boulder group, and it is arguably the single most popular trail in the most popular Front Range system. From a trailhead that also starts at the Brainard Lake winter closure, it parallels (but is rarely in sight of) the unplowed vehicular road to Brainard Lake and therefore has a winter sense of wilderness, albeit a heavily used wilderness. With the development of a snowshoeing-only option to the CMC South Trail, the Forest Service began encouraging snowshoers to leave this trail for skiers. At this writing snowshoeing on this trail is still permitted, but use has been diminishing and may eventually be prohibited. Begin south of the road, as if going to the Lefthand Reservoir Rd. You will see the wellmarked CMC South Trail almost immediately on your right (west). This is the first of two CMC South trailheads (the second is farther along the Lefthand Reservoir Rd., also to the right). Take this trail west into the woods, ascending a short, somewhat steep section. It

quickly levels out, and you’ll soon fall into an easy rhythm on the narrow, well-contoured trail, which from then on plays like a symphony of mostly tame ascents, little drops and flat sections. Because of heavy use, this is an area where snowshoers should be particularly careful not to tramp the fresh ski tracks after a snowfall. Once the weekend snowshoeing and skiing masses arrive, however, this courtesy becomes irrelevant, because the trail soon turns into a single trough. The main challenge then becomes dealing with people. Snowshoers and skiers of different speeds and ability levels leapfrog along the trail, with snowshoers moving well on the uphill and fast skiers dusting everyone on the descents. CMC South undulates prettily through the woods, which open periodically into small clearings and larger meadows, occasionally with views. At about 2 miles is a view down to the right toward Brainard Lake. You then pass several old chimneys, signaling that you are abreast of the western end of the lake, a good spot for a rest stop or turnaround. The trail actually continues a short distance to the paved but unplowed road, which goes completely around the lake. If You Want a Longer Hike. If you want to continue to Brainard Lake, take the cutoff down a short, sharp descent to another open meadow and continue northwestward to the unplowed road along the western end of the lake to make a loop (see below) via the Waldrop Trail. Remember that Little Raven, which is also accessible here, is a skier-only trail. You can also use CMC to access Long Lake, Lake Isabelle, and Mitchell Lake (see pages 87–88).

FRONT RANGE Brainard Lake

■ Moderate Distance • 2.8 miles (one way, to the Mitchell Lake parking area road) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,060 feet Highest elevation • 10,450 feet Elevation difference • 390 feet, with some additional ascents and descents Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5Minute, Ward

The CMC North Trail (also Forest Service 814) was one of the first ski trails cut by the Colorado Mountain Club. It was renamed officially to honor CMCer Harry Waldrop, who was killed in a kayaking accident on the Arkansas River. You may find references to either trail name on various maps and in different guidebooks. This companion to the CMC South Trail is slightly longer and has more ups and downs, which themselves are longer and steeper than anything you’ll find on the South Trail. The trailhead is near a large sign on the right (north), about 300 yards beyond the Brainard Lake winter closure and parking area. The trail starts with a long downhill, then

undulates through the dense woods and extends westward along the north side of the Brainard Lake Rd. After one long, steady climb, you will reach a section that includes several shorter descents, a few minor ascents and several meadow crossings, some of which are usually wind scoured. After the South St. Vrain Creek crossing, you first reach a T-intersection that is the junction with the South St. Vrain Trail and then a junction with the Brainard Lake Cut-Off Trail, which veers sharply to the left (south). This is a good place to turn around. You can either take the cutoff that leads to the eastern end of Brainard Lake or continue to make a circuit around the lake (see Brainard Lake Loop, Trail 30). If You Want a Longer Hike. You can continue on the CMC North Waldrop Trail, which joins the St. Vrain Trail and after about 0.5 mile breaks away again at a marked trail junction. The left (south) branch is the Waldrop Trail, which continues on, passing the CMC Brainard Cabin just before reaching the road to the Mitchell Lake parking area. You can continue to, or even past, Mitchell Lake (Trail 36), or combine this trail with CMC South to make the Brainard Lake Loop (see the following entry).

Snowshoeing

Trail 29 WALDROP (CMC NORTH) TRAIL

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Brainard Lake Trail 30 BRAINARD LAKE LOOP ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 7 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,060 feet Highest elevation • 10,450 feet Elevation difference • 390 feet, including ascents and descents Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5-Minute, Ward

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There are no major ascents or descents on this loop, but the distance notches it up toward a challenging snowshoe itinerary. You can make a loop by combining the South CMC (Trail 28) and North CMC (Waldrop, Trail 29) with a connecting route along two unplowed roads, one around Brainard Lake and one to the Mitchell Lake summer trailhead. It is possible to do the loop in either direction, but clockwise seems to be best for most snowshoers. To

do it in this direction, take the CMC South Trail all the way to the west end of Brainard Lake, passing the old chimneys and dropping down to the road around the west end of the lake. Continue northwest along the road around the western end. Pass the lakeside Niwot Mountain picnic area to a left fork, which is marked with a Mitchell Lake sign. Proceed up this road past the Waldrop Trail and CMC Brainard Cabin signs to a second Waldrop Trail sign, where you go right (east) along the South St. Vrain Trail. After about 0.7 mile (including crossing an open, windblown meadow, followed by a wooded area), you come to another Waldrop Trail sign, where you must take a right to follow the Waldrop Trail eastward. Along the 0.7-mile stretch, you will pass two right forks (which may or may not be obvious), one leading back to the CMC Brainard Cabin and the other leading to the Brainard Lake Rd. Stay left at each of these junctions if you want to stay on the Waldrop Trail all the way back to the Brainard Lake winter parking area.

Exploring the frozen shore of Red Rock Lake is a fine goal for the turnaround point of the easier of Brainard Lake area’s two snowshoeing-only trails. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

FRONT RANGE Brainard Lake

■ ◆ Moderate to challenging southbound; challenging northbound Distance • 5.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,060 feet (Brainard Lake Winter trailhead) Highest elevation • 10,340 feet Lowest elevation • 9,000 feet (Rainbow Lakes Rd.) Elevation difference • 280-foot gain; 1,120-foot loss (to Rainbow Lakes Rd.) Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5-Minute, Ward

Trail 32 SOURDOUGH TRAIL, NORTH SECTION ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging northbound; challenging southbound Distance • 5.9 miles (Beaver Reservoir Rd.); 7.8 miles (Camp Dick)—one way— minus 2 miles if shortcut is used Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,060 feet (Brainard Lake Winter Trailhead) Highest elevation • 10,060 feet Lowest elevation • 9,160 feet (Beaver Reservoir Rd.), 8,540 feet (Camp Dick) Elevation difference • 900 feet (to Beaver Reservoir Rd.); 1,520 feet (Camp Dick) Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5-Minute, Ward

The Sourdough Trail (Forest Service 8350) roughly parallels the Peak-to-Peak Hwy. (CO Hwy. 72) between Rainbow Lakes Rd. and Peaceful Valley, with the Brainard Lake Rd. interrupting the continuity of the trail. This interruption provides vehicle access to the middle, making it a feasible snowshoe tour for most people. You can snowshoe out and back on either section, turning around wherever it suits you, but a car shuttle is necessary to do either the north or south segment—or the entire trail—one way. If you are up for a real workout, start at the Rainbow Lake Rd. trailhead and proceed north, or start at Peaceful Valley and proceed south, to the Brainard Lake Winter trailhead, where you’ve left the second vehicle. However, because that trailhead is almost the high point, it’s easier and more congenial for many snowshoers to start there and go north or south. The north section can also be split up into two sections: Brainard Lake Winter trailhead to Beaver Reservoir Rd. and Beaver Reservoir Rd. to Camp Dick, near Peaceful Valley. (The former is sometimes called Middle Sourdough.) The Sourdough Trail’s three main trailheads, as well as the auxiliary connectors, are all accessible from side roads off the Peak-to-Peak Hwy. This is a complicated area, laced with some 40 miles of trails in, around, and leading to Coney Flats, so a map is mandatory—and a companion familiar with this area is useful. To snowshoe South Sourdough from the south, drive north from Nederland for 7 miles (or south from Ward 5 miles) and turn west (left from Nederland, right from Ward) onto Rainbow Lake Rd. (Boulder County Road 116), an unpaved road prominently labeled “University of Colorado Research Station.” The trailhead is 0.4 mile from the turnoff. A sizable parking lot, with winter toilet facilities, now

Snowshoeing

Trail 31 SOURDOUGH TRAIL, SOUTH SECTION

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Brainard Lake meets the demands of this popular trail. To come into North Sourdough’s midsection, take Boulder County Road 96 to the Beaver Reservoir Rd. trailhead, also off the Peak-toPeak Hwy., 14.5 miles north of Nederland or 2.5 miles north of the Brainard Lake Rd. Turn left on Boulder County Road 96 for 2.6 miles, also the marker to Camp Tahosa. The South St. Vrain trailhead is on your left, but continue 2 miles on an unpaved road to Beaver Reservoir. The Sourdough Trail crosses this road about 0.2 mile below the lake. The northernmost access to North Sourdough is at Peaceful Valley, nearly 19 miles north of Nederland or 5.8 miles north of the Brainard Lake Rd. Park at the wide turnoff to Camp Dick Rd., which is unplowed in winter and is therefore part of the snowshoeing and ski-touring trail. Do not park along the highway itself or block the winter-closure gate. The northern section of the trail and its connectors form a complicated network, so you definitely want a good map and probably a compass. Both sections offer nice ups and downs through the woods and over several large meadows and small clearings before the final descent to Rainbow Lakes Rd. or Camp Dick. Although the Sourdough Trail is relatively straightforward, there are several trail junctions and a few tricky spots. The trail junctions are well marked, but if you are breaking trail, small, deceiving clearings can tug you off-route. Watch for the blue trail markers. To explore the various snowed-over four-wheel-drive roads and short connecting trails integrated with portions of longer trails, study a good trail and topo map and plot other out-and-back routes with a loop in the middle. Because most of this trail system is in the woods, it is sheltered, and the snow is usually good. Northbound from the Brainard Lake Rd. and trailhead, you can either stay on the main trail or take a shortcut via a short stretch of the South St. Vrain Trail and the Church Camp Cutoff Trail. To use the shortcut, turn right (east)

on the South St. Vrain Trail. After 0.2 mile, follow the shortcut that branches left (north) and intercept the Sourdough Trail. The shortcut eliminates 2 miles of the Sourdough Trail. When you rejoin the main trail, bear right (north). The road to Stapp Lakes branches from the Sourdough Trail 4.5 miles (2.5 miles if you take the shortcut) north of the Brainard Lake trailhead and offers another routing option. The Sourdough Trail intercepts the Beaver Reservoir Rd. (Boulder County Road 96) after about 5.9 miles (3.9 miles with the shortcut), which you can follow west to the reservoir, but this is a challenging distance for most snowshoers. Beaver Reservoir is where you’re most likely to encounter wind. If you are heading to Peaceful Valley, continue northward on the Sourdough Trail 2 miles to Camp Dick. Note that the descent into the Middle St. Vrain Valley and Camp Dick is steep. Be alert for skiers coming down behind you. Another alternative is to take the South St. Vrain Trail directly to the Tahosa bridge near the Peak-to-Peak Hwy., a steady 3-mile downhill. After leaving the Brainard Lake Winter Trailhead, go 1.1 miles, turn right (east) on the South St. Vrain Trail (Forest Service 909), and follow it to the Tahosa bridge. South Sourdough doesn’t offer as many ancillary trails, which has the advantage of being less confusing, but it is also an extremely pleasant ramble through the forest. The trailhead at the Brainard Lake winter parking area is about 50 yards east of the Lefthand Reservoir route. Pass the Little Raven Trail junction and continue in a south/southeasterly direction through woods and open meadows. There is one large, sharp hairpin turn at a bridge crossing at about 4 miles. About a mile farther on, following the junction with Niwot Ridge Rd., the Sourdough Trail turns east, steepens, and develops switchbacks before terminating 1.5 miles later at the Rainbow Lakes Rd. Some of the roads near the University of Colorado Research Station are also accessible to snowmobiles.

FRONT RANGE Brainard Lake

● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 4 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,300 feet Highest elevation • 9,900 feet Elevation difference • 600 feet (with small ascents and descents along the route) Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5Minute, Ward

This route (Boulder County Road 116) is very generally in the Brainard Lake area, but separated from the Brainard Lake/Lefthand Reservoir drainage by Niwot Ridge. Drive north from Nederland for 7 miles (or south from Ward 5 miles) and turn west (left from Nederland, right from Ward) onto Rainbow Lake Rd. (Boulder County Road 116). This is an unpaved but plowed road prominently labeled “University of Colorado Research Station.” Continue 0.8 mile and park at the winter closure for the left fork in the road, which leads to the Rainbow Lakes Campground. This is one of the Front Range’s most weather-vulnerable routes. Whenever snow cover is good and winds are low, it offers 4 miles of pleasure, scenery, and usually solitude. When the sun has blazed down on several exposed stretches, and especially when wind has raked the snow cover and produced icy patches or bare rock, it can be a trial, even on versatile snowshoes. This route has several ups and downs but no major ascents. You will be heading mostly south at the beginning of the route, which then curves to the right (west) through private land and crosses North Boulder Creek before making a sharp left-hand curve to head south again toward the summer campground. Three miles

into the route, you will pass a locked gate lead ing to City of Boulder watershed, which is offlimits to the public, so be sure to stay on the road. The campground makes a convenient spot for a picnic, as well as a reasonable turn-around. If You Want a Longer Hike. The summer trailhead for the Rainbow Lakes Trail (Forest Service 918) is at the northwest corner of the campground. The trail quickly enters the Indian Peaks Wilderness and within a mile passes the small chain of frozen lakes whose waters drain eastward to join North Boulder Creek. The trail ends after 1 mile and is 300 feet higher than the campground.

Snowshoeing

Trail 33 RAINBOW LAKES RD.

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Trails beyond Brainard Lake Long Lake, Lake Isabelle, and Mitchell Lake are the Indian Peaks Wilderness’s three most accessible high-alpine lakes—but in the heart of winter, when you can’t drive beyond the road barrier, they fit into this book’s “If You Want a Longer Hike” category. In fact, they might seem to be epic snowshoeing destinations, because you have to get there and back from the road closure. The distances given below are from either the Long Lake or Mitchell Lake summer trailheads, so you will need to add a total of about 6 miles (i.e., about 3 miles each way) to the distances given here when the Brainard Lake Rd. is closed for the season. Early in fall, when some snow has fallen but it is still possible to drive along the main road to Brainard Lake, and especially in spring, when the road has been plowed out but there’s still deep snowpack in the forest, these three routes provide beguiling and much shorter snowshoe hikes in themselves. These three lakes are not only relatively easy to reach (on snowshoes, accessed as described

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Brainard Lake above from the west end of Brainard Lake) but are excellent examples of high mountain lakes. Portions of the routes, particularly the drainage between Lake Isabelle and the bottom of the valley, are in normal avalanche zones, therefore demanding caution and respect. Still, snowshoeing the lower portions of these trails, surrounded by the wilderness, is a special experience so close to the Rocky Mountains’ major metropolitan area. This area is not only a recreation zone but also an important watershed for the City of Boulder, which in some places restricts recreational access. The South St. Vrain drainage begins at Isabelle Glacier. Glacial melt water, plus runoff from Navajo Peak, Apache Peak, and Shoshone Peak, flows into Lake Isabelle and then to Long Lake and Brainard Lake. Mitchell Lake is the lowest in a chain that drains off lofty Mt. Audubon, Paiute Peak, and Mt. Toll; it also drains into Brainard Lake. Brainard Lake’s water flows into South St. Vrain Creek. The Indian Peaks Wilderness boundary lies west of Brainard Lake, so these are true— not just seasonal—wilderness routes.

CMC Brainard Cabin Since 1928, the Colorado Mountain Club’s Boulder group has maintained the Brainard cabin, located at 10,425 feet near the Mitchell and Long Lake summer parking lots. Although it is quite near the trail, the cabin nestles in a discreet hollow, so look for the signs. Volunteer hosts welcome all winter backcountry users on most weekend days with a warm fire and hot chocolate. (Because they are volunteers, however, don’t rely on it.) If you head to the west end of Brainard Lake, why not tuck a couple of dollar bills into your pocket to drop into the donation cup to help defray the cost of cabin upkeep? It is a wonderful spot to rest, have a snack, even warm your lunch on the stove and trade tips and tales with other snowshoers and skiers. CMC members and their guests may also use the cabin for overnights, which makes snowshoeing beyond Brainard Lake a lot easier. It sleeps up to 12 people and is stocked with some basic necessities, but guests must provide their own sleeping bags, food, and flashlights. For overnight reservations (at least one CMC member per party), call (303) 554-7688.

FRONT RANGE Brainard Lake

● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 3 miles (loop from Long Lake summer parking lot) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,500 feet (Long Lake summer parking lot) Highest elevation • 10,640 feet Elevation difference • 140 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5Minute, Ward and USGS 7.5-Minute, Monarch Lake

It is possible to circle Long Lake in either direction, but counterclockwise is more popular because it is also used by people heading to Lake Isabelle via the Pawnee Pass Trail (Forest Service Trails #907/908), making the route easier to follow in that direction. The narrow trail threads through dense conifer woods, so the snow lingers and lingers. In fact, you can often combine snowshoeing and barebooting until July. From the Long Lake/Lake Isabelle/Pawnee Pass trailhead, follow the snowed-over South St. Vrain Creek bed 0.3 mile to the northeastern end of Long Lake at the boundary of the Indian Peaks Wilderness. At the Isabelle/

Pawnee Pass sign, bear right through the woods and sporadic clearings. Continue along the narrow but obvious trail paralleling the north shore (called the Long Lake Ski Trail in some books and on some maps). Each open spot provides a wonderful view as you snowshoe. (In winter, the ice should easily hold your weight, but crossing it rarely seems worth the risk of “swimming,” especially early or late in the season.) Roughly 1.3 miles from the trailhead is the junction with the Lake Isabelle/ Pawnee Pass Trail, which in winter is the main trail. To circle the lake, however, bear left and continue on the less heavily used Jean Lunning Trail. At the head of the lake, the trail is well above water level and quite a distance from it, so don’t be surprised that you can’t see its flat, frozen surface. Then, beyond the head of the lake, the trail bends back to the left in a northeast direction, paralleling the south shore. Along this stretch, the views begin to open up consistently, and you’ll know that you are nearing the trail’s end. The Jean Lunning Trail reconnects first with the Niwot Cut-Off (sometimes called the Long Lake Cut-Off, also Forest Service 907) directly to the Brainard Lake Rd. and then with the main trail back to the Long Lake summer parking lot.

Snowshoeing

Trail 34 LONG LAKE/JEAN LUNNING TRAIL

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Brainard Lake Trail 35 LAKE ISABELLE

Trail 36 MITCHELL LAKE

■ ◆ Moderate (from Long Lake);

● ■ ◆ Easy to moderate (from the

challenging (from Brainard Lake Winter trailhead) Distance • 2 miles (one way, from the Long Lake summer parking lot); 10 miles (round-trip from Brainard Lake Winter trailhead) Avalanche hazard • Low to moderate at the lower section of a side valley just before the lake Starting elevation • 10,500 feet (Long Lake summer parking lot) Highest elevation • 10,930 feet Elevation difference • 430 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • None needed

Mitchell Lake summer trailhead); moderate to challenging (from the Brainard Lake Winter trailhead) Distance • 1.1 miles (one way from Mitchell Lake summer parking lot); 9.5 miles (round-trip from Brainard Lake Winter Trailhead) Avalanche hazard • None to Mitchell Lake; moderate on the continuation to Blue Lake Starting elevation • 10,450 feet (from Mitchell Lake summer parking lot) Highest elevation • 10,735 feet Elevation difference • 285 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5Minute, Ward and USGS 7.5-Minute, Monarch Lake

From the Long Lake summer parking area, follow the Lake Isabelle/Pawnee Pass Trail (also called the Long Lake Ski Trail) along the lake’s northern shore, described above. At the trail junction, take the right fork and begin climbing toward Lake Isabelle (Forest Service 907). The trees thin, the slope becomes steeper, and the route switchbacks to a steplike rocky knob. You can get around it by snowshoeing to the right (north). Be sure to stay in the sheltering stands of Engleman spruce and avoid lingering in any clear avalanche paths. At the top of this rocky section, bear left to Lake Isabelle. Set near treeline, this is a pristine jewel in the precious setting of the Indian Peaks Wilderness. It can be very windy in winter, so you might want to turn back before reaching the exposed basin that the lake occupies. Even on relatively calm days, snowshoeing above Lake Isabelle is not recommended due to avalanche hazard above treeline.

Take your choice of routes from the Brainard Lake Winter Trailhead to the CMC Brainard Cabin, where you might overnight or stop to warm up if you’re making a long day of it. The route beyond the cabin is beautiful, the snow conditions are generally good and this area offers wonderful views, especially of Mt. Audubon’s impressive slopes just to the north. After leaving the cabin, continue straight up the road toward to the summer trailhead for Mitchell Lake (Forest Service 912). (A trail to the right, which accesses the Beaver Creek Trail, is not the one you want.) After 0.5 mile, the trail crosses Mitchell Creek over a bridge and enters the Indian Peaks Wilderness. You can follow the summer trail if you can find it or hike up the frozen creekbed. The Mitchell

FRONT RANGE Brainard Lake

If You Want a Longer Hike. From the western end of Mitchell Lake, the trail continues 1.3 miles to Blue Lake, gaining an additional 630 feet. This section is considerably more challenging and even less frequently traveled in winter, not surprising given the usual conditions, which include both strong winds and several slide sections. Therefore, this trail is best avoided whenever there are avalanche hazard conditions and unless you are knowledgeable about snow safety. Avalanche hazard further increases beyond Blue Lake.

Snowshoeing

Lake route passes through a dense Engelmann spruce forest interspersed with occasional clearings. Continuing up the mild incline, you will first reach Little Mitchell Lake, which in winter resembles another large, snow-covered clearing and can be windy. Continue over a small knoll, which is often wind scoured, until you reach Mitchell Lake at about 0.8 mile. You can end your excursion here and return to the trailhead.

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Most of the Brainard Lake trails lead through beautiful coniferous forests that shelter snowshoers from the stiff winds blowing off the nearby Continental Divide. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

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back mountain town with mining in its past and recreation in its present. In truth, it’s a little of both. Nederland is a short commute from Boulder, yet the center of town, with board sidewalks and false-front, frontier-flavored, Victorian-era stores, could hardly seem less suburban, and the high peaks that form the Continental Divide are visible to the west. No matter where they work or what they do, Nederlanders understandably think of themselves as mountain people, rugged types who love the outdoors. Boulder Canyon is a rock-rimmed link between Boulder and Nederland, which puts the mountain town within commuting distance of the city, and there’s even an RTD public bus connection. Yet Nederland’s winters are harsher, colder, and snowier than Boulder’s. Eldora Mountain Resort, a mid-sized Alpine and Nordic ski area just 3 miles from town, was one of the first in Colorado to welcome snowshoers. And if Nederland is a Boulder suburb, then little Eldora must be considered a Nederland suburb, and Rollinsville, perhaps, an exurb. These small mountain hamlets, rather than Nederland itself, are the gateways to some of the worthiest snowshoeing trails along the Front Range. For tourist information, contact the Nederland Area Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 85, Nederland, CO 80466; (800) 221-0044 or (303) 258-3936; www.nederlandchamber.org. GETTING THERE From Denver, take U.S. 6 west through Clear Canyon, drive

through Black Hawk on CO 119, and after 14.2 miles make a left tur n onto the Moffat Rd. (Gilpin County Road 149) toward East Por tal for the Rollinsville–East Por tal Trails (described later in this chapter); for the Eldora trails, stay on Hwy . 119 until you almost reach Nederland, then turn left on Boulder County Road 130. The well-marked Eldora Mountain Resort access road forks to the left after 1.4 miles. The ski area is 4.2 miles farther. To get to any of the other Eldora area trails, continue on the main road through the village of Eldora to the end of the plowed area, 3.9 miles from the Peak-to-Peak Hwy . turnoff. From Boulder, take CO 119 (Boulder Canyon) west for 17 miles to the center of Nederland. Go left (south) at the rotar y, and drive out of town on a continuation of CO 119 (Peak-to-Peak Hwy.). To Eldora, turn right (west) onto Boulder County Road 130 and continue as above. An option from such nor thwestern suburbs as Ar vada and Westminster is to take Coal Creek Canyon (CO Hwy . 72) west to the Peak-to-Peak Hwy. Turn left for Rollinsville and right from Eldora–Nederland and proceed as above.

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TO SOME PEOPLE, Nederland is a western suburb of Boulder. To others, it’s a laid-

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Nederland and Rollinsville Eldora Trailheads The settlement of Eldora is so quaint a mountain hamlet that it makes Nederland appear urban. Small log cabins, a sprinkling of vacation homes, a couple of long-shuttered mercantiles, and one intersection that someone decided merits a four-way stop sign characterize Eldora. It is tucked into a tight valley carved by Middle Boulder Creek, from which there are views up toward the Alpine ski runs of Eldora Mountain Resort’s Corona Bowl.

Trail 37 JENNY CREEK TRAIL ■ ◆ Moderate to trail junction; challenging to Yankee Doodle Lake Distance • 3.2 miles (to trail junction below Guinn Mountain); 5.3 miles (to Yankee Doodle Lake) (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,340 feet Highest elevation • 10,000 feet (Guinn Mountain trail junction); 10,720 feet (Yankee Doodle Lake) Elevation difference • 660 feet (to trail junction below Guinn Mountain), plus 210-foot loss that must be regained; 1,380 feet to Yankee Doodle Lake), plus 210-foot loss that must be regained Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5-Minute, Nederland, and USGS 7.5-Minute, East Portal

This popular trail can be reached by RTD bus, which comes up Boulder Canyon, through Nederland and directly to the Eldora ski area several times a day, but most people drive. Park in the first ski area lot. Although the trailhead is at the ski area, the trail is on Forest Service land and is free. Several old roads and

Clear signage separates the backcountry users from the skiers and snowboarders sliding down the slopes of Eldora Mountain Resort. (Photo by Claire Walter)

pack trails crisscross each other, but the Jenny Creek Trail (Forest Service 808) is clearly marked at places that might be confusing. In addition to the customary blue diamond ski trail markers, numerous signs direct you along the correct route. Whether they say “Jenny Creek Access Trail,” “Jenny Creek Ski Trail,” or “Jenny Creek Trail,” it’s all the same route. The trail alternately heads to the south and west. At times, it is quite close to Eldora’s Alpine ski runs. Some parts are an old road of considerable width, while others are narrower and demand more caution, especially on weekends when it gets crowded with skiers. From the parking area, ascend up the left side of the Little Hawk beginner ski slope. At the top, pause for a moment for a fine view of South Arapaho Peak. Pass behind the chairlift for just a few yards, and enter the trees at a blue-and-white “Forest Access” sign. Ascend a short, moderately steep hill where you can again glimpse South Arapaho, then descend into a small gully and go up another fairly long hill. At the end of the second uphill, the trail comes to a T-intersection with a wide road. The large sign indicates clearly that the Eldora ski area is to the right, and the Eldora Snow-

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If You Want a Longer Hike. Continue through the trail junction on the Jenny Creek Trail as it crosses the creek bed and continues steadily upward for nearly 2 more miles on the north side of the creek. After a steep climb, the trail ends in a cirque at Yankee Doodle Lake, a total of 5.3 miles and nearly 1,400 vertical feet from the ski area and the trailhead. There is increased avalanche hazard in the area around and especially above the lake.

Nordic Center Eldora Nordic Center. Sharing a base with the Alpine ski area, this cross-country center now has three designated snowshoeing trails: Lakes Loop, 2 miles; Twisted Snowshoe Loop, 1.5 miles; and Lone Star Loop, a 6-mile whopper. You can use them for a modest trail fee. Eldora does not permit snowshoers on crosscountry ski trails. (Jenny Creek Trail, described above, is free.) A popular snowshoeing route climbs about 500 feet in 2 miles to the Tennessee Mountain Cabin, a hut that can be

Races Eldora Nighthawks Racing Series.

A 6-week series of cross-country skiing and snowshoeing races takes place on Wednesday evenings from mid- to late January to late February, with snowshoers starting at 5:30 P.M. on 4K and 6K courses and skiers half an hour later at longer distances. Contact the Eldora Nordic Center, (303) 440-8700, ext. 267. Frozen Dead Guy Days Snowshoe Race and Shuffle. If you live anywhere

along the Front Range, you certainly know about Nederland’s quirky Frozen Dead Guy festival, celebrating the life and perhaps afterlife of Bredo Morstel, a Norwegian-born octogenarian whose subsequently deported grandson had him cryogenically frozen and stored in a Tuff Shed in Nederland. The grandson’s deportation, a quirky locally made film, and a growing legend have led to a mid-Feburary festival known as Frozen Dead Guy Days. Most of the events take place in Nederland, but a 5K snowshoe race and a 2K family snowshoe shuffle to, appropriately, Deadman’s Gulch, are held at the Eldora Nordic Center, (303) 440-8700, ext. 267, for snowshoeing details. Screamin’ Snowman Snowshoe Race . This February snowshoe race, held annually since 2001, includes a 5K run, a 10K run, and a 1K fun race, as well as a special 5K division for high-school-age racers. For information, call organizer Darrin Eisman at (303) 6427917 or go to www.racingunderground.com/ sssnowman.html.

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rented through the ski area for overnights by groups of up to 10. Eldora Nordic Center, P.O. Box 1697, Nederland, CO 80466; (303) 440-8700, ext. 267, or www.eldora.com. An events calendar is posted at www.eldora.com/ mountainInfo/events.cfm.

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shoe Trail and the Jenny Creek Trail are to the left. The saddle to the Jenny Creek drainage is at 9,550 feet, and the loss from there to the creek must be regained on the return. The Jenny Creek Trail bears west and drops gradually 210 feet and 0.8 mile toward Jenny Creek, which is on the left (south) at the bottom of the drainage. After an old sign in a clearing, the trail begins a series of ascents and flats. You will come to two trail junctions in rapid succession. At 1.6 miles, you will pass the Deadman Gulch Trail. At 1.9 miles, two branches of the Guinn Mountain Trail (Forest Service Trail #820) spur off to the right (northwest). The Jenny Creek Trail continues to contour around the south side of Guinn Mountain. About 3.2 miles from the trailhead, it forks to the left at two trail junctions. Many snowshoers elect to turn around somewhere in this vicinity, if not earlier, for the trail then steepens considerably.

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Nederland and Rollinsville Guided Tours Front Range Mountain Guides. This

guide service customizes half- or full-day immersion tours, designed for newcomers to snowshoeing who want the basics, ranging from advice on gear to a guided introductory excursion on appropriate terrain. Guide Bill Morris uses Boulder Open Space when there’s enough snow, as well as public trails west of the city, and also 140 acres of private land in the Rollinsville area. Longer hikes, including overnights that include an introduction to winter camping, are also available. They rent all the equipment necessary for even the longer and most complex trip, including snowshoes, sleeping bags, packs, and tents. They also offer a snowshoeing day trip especially for teens. Front Range Mountain Guides, P.O. Box 17294, Boulder, CO 80308; (303) 666-5523 or www.mtnguides.com. Bigfoot Snowshoe Tours. The irrepressible Dave Felkley is a snowshoeing enthusiast and passionate lover of the winter trails around his adopted hometown of Nederland. He conducts low-key excursions on private land, places that you simply aren’t permitted to access on your own. Given the weekend crowds at some of the more popular Front Range routes, this is a real benefit. He conducts learn-about-winter tours geared for beginning snowshoers for small groups of family or friends, and for such organized groups as seniors and scouts. Other specialty tour possibilities include nature tours, photography tours, and picnic tours. The amiable and knowledgeable Felkley has his own favorite itineraries, which he tweaks to customize for his clients. Snowshoes and poles can be rented locally. Contact Bigfoot Snowshoe Tours, P.O. Box 1010, Nederland, CO 80466; (303) 258-3157.

Boulder Outdoor Center. The Boulder Outdoor Center (BOC), which in summer specializes in instruction and equipment for such white-water sports as kayaking and rafting, in winter focuses on very cold, white water with snowshoeing clinics and tours offered from November to April. The snowshoe clinics currently consist of a two-hour evening session, followed by a full-day tour in Rocky Mountain National Park. Some sessions, geared for singles only, and are a great way to showcase the social aspects of the sport and fill up fast. The BOC also puts on one-day avalanche clinics from December to April. Boulder Outdoor Center, 2707 Spruce St., Boulder, CO 80302; (800) 364-9376, (303) 444-8420; www.boc123.com.

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● Easy Distance • 1.3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,820 feet Highest elevation • 9,030 feet Elevation difference • 210 feet Snowmobiles • Permitted to Hessie townsite, but very rarely used by snowmobiles Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5-Minute, Ward

The Hessie townsite is the starting point for numerous summer hikes into the southern portion of the Indian Peaks Wilderness. In winter, it can be a destination in itself for new snowshoers. To get there, drive through Nederland toward Eldora, as above. Instead of bearing left to the ski area, take Boulder County Road 130, the right fork, through the center of Eldora. Continue 3.9 miles from the turnoff from Highway 119 to the end of the plowed section and park.

Snowshoers thread their way through the novice skiers and snowboarders on Eldora’s Ho-Hum beginner run en route to the Jenny Creek Trail. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Snowshoe over a large snowbank that always accumulates here and stay on the wide, unplowed road for about 0.75 mile. At the well-marked junction with the Fourth of July Rd. (Boulder County Road 111), continue straight (west) for 0.3 mile to the Hessie townsite. (This section of the road, just after the junction, drops into a minor dip in this old mining road and can get quite icy, but you can easily avoid the worst of it by staying up on the snowy bank, where a detour trail has been added.) Hessie was attractively set in a wideopen, but sometimes windblown, basin that now serves as the main summer parking area. In winter, however, it feels like passing through an open field. Continue across the open area and go 0.2 mile through a stand of tall conifers to the footbridge over the North Fork of Middle Boulder Creek. This is the trailhead for a number of summer routes and longer, more challenging winter trails. If you want to keep your walk short and easy, turn around at the bridge and retrace your route back.

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Nederland and Rollinsville Trail 39 LOST LAKE ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 2.8 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,820 feet Highest elevation • 9,770 feet Elevation difference • 950 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5-Minute, Ward

The first half of this route is the nearly level road to Hessie (above), and the second half is anything but level as it climbs, sometimes quite steeply, gaining more than 800 feet, with some 100 feet of it at the end. (On their descent, skiers pick up a real head of steam here, so stay on the side as you are going up or coming down.) To reach Lost Lake, follow Hessie Rd., as above, but cross the footbridge. Stay on the road, which soon begins climbing steadily, contours up an aspen-dotted hillside, and becomes less of a road and more of a trail (Forest Service Trail #902)—albeit a wide one. There is one large switchback and several smaller curves, in addition to views across the valley to Eldora Mountain Resort’s Corona Bowl ski trails. Keep going across another footbridge over the creek before reaching one of the road’s steeper pitches. Just when you might have run out of steam, the trail levels again. Pass the junction with the Jasper Lake and Devil’s Thumb Trails, 1.1 miles from the first footbridge. At the next fork, bear left (south) onto Lost Lake Trail (Forest Service Trail #813) toward the lake amid tall pines. The trail makes one big hairpin as you climb through a steep, rocky gully toward Lost Lake, which is tucked into the northern side of Bryan Mountain. Return the way you came.

Rollinsville–East Portal Trails No trails actually start in Rollinsville, but this speck of a settlement, where the railroad tracks cross under the Peak-to-Peak Hwy, is the gateway to the web of old roads and tight trails spoking out from the South Boulder Creek Valley. The road dead-ends at East Portal, where Amtrak, the Ski Train to Winter Park, and other trains still cross beneath the Continental Divide through the Moffat Tunnel. A few good winter trails are accessible right from the main road, and others are reached from the large parking area just beside East Portal and the tracks. For these trails west of Rollinsville, take Hwy. 119 south from Nederland for 4.4 miles and turn right at the road to Tolland and East Portal, which is marked as Gilpin County Road 16 (also called the Moffat Rd. or the Rollins Pass Rd.). Getting there can be a challenge. Although this unpaved road is plowed, it usually has wind-drifted sections between Tolland and East Portal. Along the section west of Tolland, ground blizzards often obscure parts of the road, and chronic snow-deposition areas make road conditions unpredictable. Unless it hasn’t snowed for a while, a high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended for winter access to the East Portal trails.

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● Moderate Distance • 2.25 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,920 feet Highest elevation • 9,640 feet Elevation difference • 720 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #103, Winter Park, Central City, Rollins Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Nederland, East Portal

One way to get away from the crowd is to drive through Tolland to the intersection with the Mammoth Gulch Rd. (called the Apex Rd. on some maps and in some guidebooks), just 0.1 mile after this tiny settlement. With the closure of the popular Jenny Lind Gulch Trail just to the east, more people have begun using the Mammoth Gulch route. There isn’t much parking here, so it’s best to arrive early if you are going out on a weekend. Snowshoe up the unplowed road (Forest Service Road 176, also marked Road 4-N), which angles off to the left (southwest). It starts as a rather steep ascent of the end of Baltimore Ridge. The snow is often windpacked, crusty, or even non-existent here, which discourages skiers and thins out what little crowd that might otherwise develop. Snowshoers are at a distinct advantage under these dicey conditions. As a compensation for enduring the uneven snow conditions and frequent windy spots, you’ll get fine views down toward the hamlet of Tolland and the open, blown expanse of the South Boulder Park Valley.

The road hugs the hillside, so after the initial climb, you’ll be on a gentler grade as you continue around the ridge, ultimately bearing south and into a broad basin. As it climbs, the road also draws closer to the valley and Mammoth Creek below. Don’t be distracted by various road and side-trail junctions. Stay on the obvious main route. At 1.6 miles, where a route to Baltimore branches off to the left, turn around and look north to South Arapaho Peak, 10 miles away yet dramatically visible on clear days. Except on the snowiest days, you will be able to look down on Mammoth Gulch and the snow-covered surfaces first of Teller Lake and then the former, and now drained, Mammoth Creek Reservoir below on the right (north). Much evidence of mining can be seen in the gulch and on the mountainsides. The Giant’s Ladder railroad cut leading to Rollins Pass is also clearly visible on the other side of the South Boulder Creek Valley, but the natural splendor of 13,294-foot James Peak at the head of the valley where you’re hiking is what really draws the eye. This is a good place to turn around. If You Want a Longer Hike. The road splits into three. The right fork (Forest Service Road 183) descends to the abandoned reservoir, and the left fork (Forest Service Road 353) eventually leads to the old mining camp of Apex. Stay on the middle route, marked Old Rd. 176. It enters the trees and climbs again for a total of nearly 5 miles and some 900 vertical feet from Tolland to a gate at the Mammoth Mine. A 3- to 4-mile round-trip usually suffices as an add-on snowshoeing hike here. In addition, the avalanche potential in run-out zones increases as the road skirts the steep hillside.

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Nederland and Rollinsville Trail 41 ROLLINS PASS RD. ■ ◆ Moderate to first switchback curve; moderately challenging between switchback and Antelope Creek and between Antelope Creek and Yankee Doodle Lake; extremely challenging to Rollins Pass Distance • 2.3 miles to the first switchback curve; 2.8 additional miles to Antelope Creek; 4 additional miles to Yankee Doodle Lake; total of 14.4 miles to Rollins Pass (all distances one way) Avalanche hazard • Low at bottom of trail; moderate to high at and above treeline; route crosses some slide areas Starting elevation • 9,190 feet Highest elevation • 9,900 feet (at Antelope Creek); 10,720 feet (at Yankee Doodle Lake); 11,670 feet (at Rollins Pass) Elevation difference • 710 feet to Antelope Creek; 820 additional feet to Yankee Doodle Lake; 950 additional feet to Rollins Pass (total of 2,480 feet to Rollins Pass) Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #103, Winter Park, Central City, Rollins Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, East Portal, Nederland

The lower part of Rollins Pass Rd. (Forest Service Road 149) (also known as the Giant’s Ladder Route or Giant’s Ladder Railroad Grade) is far from the most popular snowshoeing route around. You’ll get a clue as to the reason from

the winter sign at the winter trailhead that reads, “Snowmobile Route to Rollins Pass, Winter Park.” This is one of the rare snowmobile routes on the Front Range between Interstate 70 and Estes Park. Even though it does not see as much traffic as popular Western Slope snowmobile routes, many people who spend their time exclusively exploring this part of Colorado are unaccustomed to such a multi-use trail—and not always gracious about sharing the road. Still, this route has a great deal to recommend it, especially on quiet weekdays—and most especially on calm days when wind is not a problem and visibility is good enough to enjoy the ever-changing views. The bottom of unplowed Rollins Pass Rd. is on the right, 7.2 miles from the Peak-to-Peak Hwy. and just after the second railroad crossing past Tolland. There is ample room to pull over and park (snowmobile trailers do need space), and the views of the valley and the surrounding peaks can be exceptional. From the Giant’s Ladder trailhead, snowshoe up the wide, steady grade of a road that was built for the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad before there was such a thing as the Moffat Tunnel. The ascent is steady and gentle—it was, after all, designed for the railroad—and you can hike as far as you like, turn back when you are ready, and return the way you came. Even if you just snowshoe to the first switchback and are challenged by winds, you will be grateful for the stability and reliability

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of snowshoes on variable snow surfaces. Continue upward, and you will probably be knocked out by the scenery, which changes with every long, loopy curve of the road. A major switchback 2.3 miles from the trailhead provides an excellent view of the valley and the tracks below (you might even see Amtrak or the Ski Train). It makes a good turnaround point. If you are feeling strong, continue to Antelope Creek, which is crossed at the third big switchback, about 5 miles from the trailhead. Those with even more juice can go just a few hundred yards farther and follow West Antelope Ridge Rd. (Forest Service Road 149 and Gilpin County Road 117), which after about 1 mile connects with Jenny Creek Rd. (Forest Service Road 502). You can make a good car shuttle of this route, which can be snowshoed from either the Giant’s Ladder trailhead or the Jenny Creek trailhead at the Eldora ski area (Trail 37). In fact, for the vast majority of snowshoers, this is more practical and often more pleasant than continuing farther along the Rollins Pass Rd. If You Want a Longer Hike. Still, if you are really a gonzo snowshoer, runner, or endurance snowshoe racer, as so many people in the Front Range are, you can chug up to Yankee Doodle Lake. When wind and snow conditions permit, the ultrafit can continue up to the Needles Eye Tunnel or over it all the way to Rollins Pass. This is an extreme snowshoeing excursion, not to be undertaken lightly— or alone. It would be a wise idea to arrange for a snowmobile ride back to the trailhead.

■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 2 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,210 feet (East Portal) Highest elevation • 10,890 feet Elevation difference • 1,680 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #103, Winter Park, Central City, Rollins Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, East Portal

Drive west on the Moffat Rd. for 8 miles from the Peak-to-Peak Hwy. (and 0.8 mile past the Rollins Pass Rd. junction, see previous writeup) to the large parking area on the left of the road; you will be in sight of the Moffat Tunnel’s east entrance, which gave this East Portal area its name. Between Tolland and East Portal, you will twice cross the railroad tracks and once drive under a railroad overpass. The open parking area can be astonishingly windy, but button up and prevail to the trail, because the winds often subside in the trees. So grab your gear and walk past the concrete barriers toward the tunnel. Don’t be put off by noaccess signs at the barriers. They are meant for vehicular traffic; foot traffic is still permitted. Just before you reach it, bear left to cross the tracks and a concrete bridge and slip around a metal gate. Put your snowshoes on at the trailhead sign. Begin snowshoeing along the Rogers Pass Trail (also South Boulder Creek Trail, Forest Service 900) as it heads southwest. The trail follows a deep and sheltered valley past remnants of earlier settlement and through some of the Front Range’s most beautiful forest areas, characterized by many large, perfectly formed conifers. Soon after the trailhead, the main trail, you will pass four vintage cabins (be sure to take a

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Nederland and Rollinsville look at the last one, a green cabin with an exhaust pipe, complete with muffler, as a stovepipe). In fact, take a good look at all of them, because the designation of this area as part of the James Peak Wilderness in fall 2003 signals that they will eventually be removed or demolished. The wide trail then enters the trees, climbing steadily, and yet gently enough for all but the newest and most fragile snowshoer. After about a mile, you will enter a large sloping clearing, pass through three posts from a long-gone fence, and see some more cabin ruins down the hill on your left. The long ridge of Nebraska Hill is visible on the left. The trail steepens and becomes somewhat narrower as it reenters the trees. Especially on weekends, when this route is quite heavily used, these steeper, narrower, and curvier sections demand special alertness, because downward-bound skiers can get up a good head of steam. After about 1.5 miles, you will begin to see periodic round red trail markers that resemble bicycle rear reflectors nailed to trees. After about 2 miles from the trailhead, you will

A funky cabin near the East Portal trailhead is an eloquent tribute to the history of this area, which is close to Denver and Boulder, yet feels light-years away. (Photo by Claire Walter)

come to a small clearing where the trail makes a sharp bend to the left. This is a good place to turn around. If you stop here for a picnic, you can sometimes hear the muffled whir of the tunnel’s powerful vent fans even at this distance—and sometimes, you can hear a train whistle too. Return the way you came. As an alternative, if you are comfortable with your navigational skills, note that snowshoers have also been pioneering their own routes just a few hundred yards from the trailhead, crossing over to the south side of South Boulder Creek. Unless there has been significant new snow, you can follow any snowshoe tracks that you find and retrace your steps back to the trailhead. If You Want a Longer Hike. The trail, now known as the Rogers Pass Trail (but still continuing the Forest Service 900 designation) becomes even steeper as it climbs toward the Continental Divide. Stay on it to treeline, and if the weather is good and avalanche hazards have been reported low, consider continuing to frozen Rogers Pass Lake. At the head of the valley, the trail switchbacks up a very steep section to the lake. If you get that far, you will have hiked nearly 4 miles each way and gained 1,900 feet in elevation from the trailhead—a significant achievement on snowshoes on an increasingly challenging route. Heart Lake, the main destination of the summer trail located on another side of a ridge about 0.5 mile to the north, is another possible destination for a longer winter hike if conditions are favorable and the snow is stable.

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◆ Challenging Distance • 2.5 miles (one way) to the intersection; 4 miles to the lowest lake Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,210 feet (East Portal) Highest elevation • 10,280 at the trail intersection; 10,560 feet at the lowest of the Forest Lakes Elevation difference • 1,070 to the intersection; 1,350 feet to the lowest lake Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #103, Winter Park, Central City, Rollins Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, East Portal

Start snowshoeing on the Rogers Pass/South Boulder Creek Trail, as above. After you have covered about a mile, passed the big clearing with the cabin ruins and all fence posts, which might or might not be sticking out of the snow, and ascended nearly 400 feet, Forest Lakes Trail (Forest Service 809) branches off to the right. This is a sharp turn, which is subtle because it is behind you. If you are hiking in new snow, it is not difficult to miss. The trail, wide as an old road, angles across the slope, ascending steadily but gradually veering away from South Boulder Creek and its eponymous trail in the valley below. You will be hiking in a northeasterly direction in this section. The trail enters a dramatic forest of big,

beautiful trees and 0.7 mile from the junction crosses Arapaho Creek. (This creek drains Arapaho Lakes, but the name can be confusing because North and South Arapaho Peaks and Arapaho Glacier and Arapaho Pass are several miles and several drainages to the north.) After the creek crossing, the trail bends slightly to the north/northwest. At a recrossing of Arapaho Creek, the trail forks. The left trail, which might be difficult to spot under snow, veers toward Arapaho Lakes, while the route to Forest Lakes veers to the right. For most snowshoers, this is a good spot to turn around. If You Want a Longer Hike. The Forest Lakes Trail steepens considerably as it approaches the lakes themselves, the first of which is 0.6 mile farther and about 350 feet higher. The total distance between East Portal and Forest Lakes is 4 miles, with an elevation gain of 1,600 feet. If snow and weather conditions are favorable and you have the stamina, you can continue past all of the lakes, angling back on the trail toward the northeast after the last large lake, and over a saddle to connect with the Rollins Pass Rd. Snowshoe down the road and connect with the Jenny Creek Trail, either the long way via a huge, 1.5-mile switchback on the road or by shortcutting directly down the Jenny Creek drainage. Either way, you will eventually end up at the Eldora base, where warmth, shelter, restrooms, and, hopefully, a car shuttle await.

Snowshoeing

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GETTING THERE From Denver, drive west on Interstate 70. Idaho Springs is 32 miles

and Georgetown is 46 miles. Directions to snowshoeing trailheads var y and are included with each of the trail descriptions. The Squaw Mountain area, though physically close to Idaho Springs, is reached from Bergen Park.

Snowshoeing

FOR THE THOUSANDS OF DAILY TRAVELERS on Interstate 70, Idaho Springs and Georgetown are no more than names on exit signs or, at best, places to fill the tank or grab a quick bite to eat. But these delightful and historic towns are worth visiting. Both of these towns’ heydays came during Colorado’s first gold rush, even though Colorado’s first gold nuggets were not found in either of them. (That honor belongs to what is now Denver, where gold was found in 1858.) A prospector named Green Russell panned over $20,000 in what came to be called Russell Gulch, near the present Idaho Springs, in 1859, the same year that a placer mining operation began in the present Georgetown. Today, these are engaging little communities that hunker in narrow valleys, walled in by the steep mountains. Their locations make them gateways to recreational opportunities yearround. Hikers know this area for its quartet of nearby fourteeners: Mt. Evans southwest of Idaho Springs, Mt. Bierstadt just to the west of Mt. Evans but accessible via Georgetown and Guanella Pass, and Grays and Torreys Peaks, which are normally climbed together, astride the Continental Divide a few miles southwest of Georgetown off Interstate 70’s Bakerville exit. Not only the fourteeners but less lofty mountains hereabouts are steep and radical, so pay special attention to the cautions about avalanches in general as well as in specific trail descriptions. With Interstate 70 cutting a swath though this area, the excellent snowshoeing routes nearby are also extremely accessible from the Front Range. Because Idaho Springs and Georgetown are also at relatively low elevations, you’ll find these trails in the mountains and canyons above, rather close to the core of the communities. Convenience to metro Denver has its price, for some of these routes can get crowded, especially on weekends. Topography also gains the upper hand. Many of the summer trails, which might look tempting for winter use, climb steeply into high, open basins with avalanche potential, so special care is needed when venturing out. Trails farther away from Interstate 70 are often safer than the close-in ones. It is worth noting that one exception to the weekday-only hours elsewhere, the Forest Service’s Clear Creek Ranger Station, just off Interstate 70’s Exit 240, is open daily except holidays. Given the terrain and potential hazards, it is wise to stop there for route suggestions and current snow condition information.

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Idaho Springs and Georgetown Idaho Springs is a long, skinny town wedged between Interstate 70 and the daunting mountains to the north that separate it from Central City. What you see from the highway is an unassuming stretch of parking lots behind Miner St., which is the main drag. If you take the time to get off the highway and actually drive along Miner, you will find charming downtown and quaint residential neighborhoods nearby. The east end of town, off Interstate 70’s Exit 241, features a strip of budget motels. Exit 240, just to the west, is the gateway to the Mt. Evans region and other appealing snowshoeing trails and boasts Colorado’s only U.S. Forest Service ranger district office that is open on weekends to dispense trail and snow conditions information. For tourist information, contact the Idaho Springs Visitor Information Center, 2060 Miner St., P.O. Box 97, Idaho Springs, CO 80452; (303) 567-4382 or (800) 882-5278; www.idahospringschamber.com.

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Some of the routes near Idaho Springs are multi-use roads, accessible to snowmobilers as well as snowshoers and cross-country skiers. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Trail 44 LAKE EDITH RD. ■ Moderate Distance • 1.3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,350 feet Highest elevation • 9,950 feet Elevation difference • 600 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #104, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Georgetown

Get off Interstate 70 at Exit 240 (Idaho Springs and Mt. Evans) and drive south on Colorado Highway 103. At the first switchback, about 6.5 miles from Interstate 70, turn right onto unpaved West Chicago Creek Rd. (Forest Service Road 188) and continue for about 2.5 miles. The winter route begins at the end of the plowed section. Begin snowshoeing roughly to the southwest for 0.8 mile along the unplowed road, which has one dramatic hairpin turn on its ascent to the West Chicago Creek Campground, a summer facility. This road is wide and easy, but it gains elevation steadily and quickly, which does provide a measure of challenge. When you reach the campground gate you will see on your right (west) a metal post marked 1881E. The Lake Edith Rd. is to the right of this post. This road is clear and easy to follow as it climbs steadily along the side of the ridge for 0.4 mile through a lovely aspen forest. It ends at a large clear area and a wooden, Western-style gate marked “Lake Edith,” which leads to a private compound. Either take a longer hike by continuing through to the Hell’s Hole Trail (below), or return the way you came.

FRONT RANGE

◆ Challenging Distance • 4.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,350 feet (at campground) Highest elevation • 11,200 feet (at Hell’s Hole) Elevation difference • 1,850 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Leashed Maps • Trails Illustrated #104, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Georgetown

Drive to the end of the plowed section of West Chicago Creek Rd. and hike to the campground as described above. Continue for 0.15 mile to the trailhead for the Hell’s Hole Trail (Trail #53) at the southern end of the summer parking area adjacent to the campground. When others have preceded you, on skis or snowshoes, you can follow their tracks as they approach and enter the northwestern lobe of the Mt. Evans Wilderness, but if snow has obscured their tracks, look for the blazes hacked into the bark of widely spaced trees lining the route. The official blazes consist of one rectangle cut vertically into the bark with a smaller square cut just above it. You will gain elevation quickly as you ascend a glacial moraine through the forest in which conifers and aspens alternate as the dominant trees. The trail first follows fairly

close to West Chicago Creek, into which several smaller creeks flow, and then climbs steeply up to a ridge, with the creek below to the left and Little Sugarloaf, a small forested peak, above to the right. About a mile from the Hell’s Hole trailhead sign, you will come to a stand of aspens that arc strongly down toward the valley floor, perhaps the result of some powerful snow loading when they were saplings. When winter snows are deep, the trees seem to be growing sideways. Continue the fairly strenuous climb to the top of the ridge, where the grade becomes much gentler. As you follow the route almost due south, alternately passing open areas and forests, you will also get some tantalizing glimpses of the surrounding mountains—Sugarloaf, Gray Wolf, and even Mt. Bierstadt—which play hide-andseek behind the trees. The view is truly spectacular from a small rise about 3 miles from the summer trailhead, from which the route drops slightly as it approaches a huge bowl. This is a good turnaround spot, but if you continue, you will cross several creek beds, pass beefy conifers, and then squeeze through willows. For many snowshoers, the distance, significant elevation gain, and sense of remoteness combine into something far more arduous than a comfortable day hike, but if you do make it to the bowl known as Hell’s Hole, look for bristlecones among the more common pines. Turn back whenever you wish and return the way you came.

Snowshoeing

Trail 45 HELL’S HOLE TRAIL

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Idaho Springs and Georgetown Trail 46 ECHO LAKE ● Easy Distance • 0.9 mile (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,600 feet Highest elevation • 10,600 feet Elevation difference • Negligible Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #104, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Mt. Evans

This is one of Colorado’s two sites for the annual Winter Trails Day, and on that specified mid-January weekend, hoards of would-be snowshoers show up to try this activity. At other times, it is a favorite with casual snowshoers and families with small children, who look for easy access from Denver and a short, sweet snowshoeing route in a beautiful mountain setting. From Interstate 70’s Exit 242 (Idaho Springs and Mt. Evans), take CO Hwy. 103 14 miles south and east to the Echo Lake parking area, near the bottom of the Mt. Evans Rd. An

alternate route is from the Bergen Park/ Evergreen area via Hwy. 103 over Squaw Pass. The parking area is on the south side of the highway, which winds up from Idaho Springs or over from Bergen Park. You can snowshoe around Echo Lake in either direction along the well-used loop trail or explore several side trails and meadowed areas or simply wander around the widely spaced trees or the picnic area. The topography at the eastern end of the lake is very gentle, but the surroundings are wild because the lake is set in the cusp of the huge mountain that rises from the western end. If You Want a Longer Hike. You can also snowshoe partway up the unplowed Mt. Evans Rd., officially CO Hwy. 5, whose winter trailhead is southeast of the parking lot. It is North America’s highest paved road, climbing nearly to the mountain’s 14,264-foot summit. The safest distance, before reaching an avalanche area, is about 2.5 miles (one way) from the winter closure, a moderate snowshoe hike with an elevation gain of roughly 750 feet.

FRONT RANGE

● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 0.7 mile (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to moderate Starting elevation • 10,390 feet Highest elevation • 10,770 feet (foot of St. Mary’s Glacier) Elevation difference • 380 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #103, Winter Park, Central City, Rollins Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Empire

On the face of it, St. Mary’s Glacier provides an appealing snowshoeing experience. However, it provides such logistical challenges and safety issues that the Forest Service currently discourages use of the area. Access is through private land, and there is now no legal place to park near the trailhead. Front Range snowshoers and backcountry skiers might remember similar issues at Jenny Lind Gulch on the Rollins Pass Rd., which no longer can be accessed for recreational use. That’s about the status of St. Mary’s Glacier today, and like Jenny Lind Gulch, access could be even more impractical in the future. Having said that, if you want to see where St. Mary’s Glacier is, try to find a parking spot somewhere legal and not too distant. From Denver, take Interstate 70 to Exit 238, 2 miles west of Idaho Springs, and turn right. Follow Fall River Rd. (Clear Creek County Road 275), a steep road winding northwestward, for about 9 miles. This Fall River Rd. is, obviously, not

the same Fall River Rd. that is on the east side of Rocky Mountain National Park. This one parallels the river of the same name that flows into Clear Creek. Bear right, passing the old mining town of Alice and the defunct St. Mary’s Glacier ski area. The trailhead is at a chainlink fence and a sign. The route to the glacier, if you can gain access to it, is short, with the challenge coming from the quick ascent at considerable altitude. Ascend northwestward following a short but steep road and bear left at the wooden gate. The road climbs to frozen St. Mary’s Lake, which is cupped in a small basin below the glacier. Note the stand of bristlecone pines around the lake. You can continue to the nearby base of the glacier itself, preferably around the right (north) side of the lake and then another short ascent. The glacier, a perpetual snowfield, is long ranked as a classic summer skiing and snowboarding site. These activities require a hike up (which is another good use for snowshoes). Return the way you came. If You Want a Longer Hike. For a steeper winter climb, it is theoretically possible to continue as far up the glacier as your energy and skill, but most of all safety, dictate—and safety here is not to be taken lightly. Only proceed if avalanche reports are favorable, for this is a known avalanche area, and people have been killed on the steep section above the glacier, whose top is at about 10,960 feet.

Snowshoeing

Trail 47 ST. MARY’S GLACIER

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Idaho Springs and Georgetown Trail 48 FALL RIVER RESERVOIR RD. ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,580 feet Highest elevation • 10,810 feet Elevation difference • 1,230 feet Snowmobiles • Yes (as far as the boundary of the new James Peak Wilderness Area, just beyond the reservoir) Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #103, Winter Park, Central City, Rollins Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Empire

Take Interstate 70 to Exit 238 as above and follow Fall River Rd. as if heading for St. Mary’s Glacier, but pull into a parking area on the left side of the road about 6.8 miles from the interstate, at a sheer switchback. The route (Forest Service Road 1741), an obvious four-wheeldrive road, follows Fall River northwest up the valley toward the Fall River Reservoir. You will

find it to be a steady ascent, with just a couple of switchbacks at river crossings, the first early in the hike and the second about halfway to the reservoir. The lower part of the road is flanked by private property, so stay on course. The main road roughly follows the river and passes an old cabin, an old chimney, and mining remnants. About halfway up, it offers fine views of Mt. Bancroft and Perry Peak. It becomes markedly steeper just before the reservoir, so when you start pulling harder, you’ll know the end is near. You can snowshoe as far as you like, backtracking on the return. You won’t want to go beyond the reservoir, because an avalanche area hangs north of it. In heavy slide years, this could impact on the last stretch of the road, so if there is any question about danger, turn around then. The gateposts near the junction with the Chinn’s Lake Rd. (see the following entry) serve as a landmark for turning around with a very good safety margin.

Trails in Clear Creek County, accessible from Interstate 70 close to Idaho Springs or Georgetown, provide tranquil escapes close to Front Range cities. (Photo by Claire Walter)

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◆ Challenging Distance • 3.2 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to moderate Starting elevation • 9,580 feet Highest elevation • 11,030 feet Elevation difference • 1,450 feet Snowmobiles • Yes (as far as the boundary of the new James Peak Wilderness Area, just beyond Chinn’s Lake) Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #103, Winter Park, Central City, Rollins Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Empire

Start your snowshoe hike as above, but 2.2 miles from the winter trailhead bear left onto the Chinn’s Lake Rd. (Forest Service Road 174). The route veers to the west from Fall River Reservoir Rd. It climbs steeply, especially the final mile, which gives snowshoers a real uphill advantage over cross-country skiers— but snowmobilers are likely to dust you both. If you enjoy both snowshoeing and skiing, you might find this is a good route for combining the two. Strap your skis to your pack and snowshoe up, and switch to skis for a fast ride back down. Just don’t go all the way to the lake unless you’re sure that the snow is reported to be stable. If conditions are right for continuing all the way to the lake, you will find yourself in a lovely basin with views toward Mt. Evans and Mt. Bancroft. A lakeside cabin makes a nice foreground feature for any photographs you might want to take, but remember that the route does get into avalanche territory near the end.

Squaw Pass Trails When Denverites, Boulderites, and other denizens of the northern Front Range think of heading for the Mt. Evans area, they drive straight west on Interstate 70, but outdoors enthusiasts from the Evergreen/Morrison area often go the back way—CO Hwy. 103. Locals also snowshoe around the Big Meadow, off Evergreen Pkwy. and in other Jefferson County parks and open areas when there’s snow on the ground, but conditions are generally reliable up along Squaw Pass.

Snowshoeing

Trail 49 CHINN’S LAKE RD.

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Idaho Springs and Georgetown Trail 50 SQUAW MOUNTAIN ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 1.9 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,620 feet Highest elevation • 11,486 feet Elevation difference • 866 feet Snowmobiles • Yes, but there may be prohibitions in the future Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #100, Boulder, Golden, and #104 Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Squaw Pass, Idaho Springs

This is the rare dominant summit in Colorado that is easily accessible on snowshoes, both because the trailhead is directly off a wellmaintained, paved highway and because there is a wide, unplowed four-wheel-drive road all the way to the top. It is not technically difficult, but the elevation makes it moderately

challenging. Although Squaw Mountain is only 4 miles due south of Idaho Springs, there is no direct north–south road. The most sensible access from Denver and the Front Range is to take Interstate 70 west to Evergreen Pkwy. (Exit 251). Continue straight through the traffic light at the bottom of the exit ramp and drive 3 miles to Squaw Pass Rd. (marked with a “To 103” sign) and turn right (west). Take this scenic and winding road 12.8 miles to a small, plowed-out parking area on the left. (As you pass about 11.5 miles from the intersection, note the ghost trails of the long-defunct Squaw Pass Ski Area, visible across a huge basin called Warren Gulch.) From the parking area, begin snowshoeing up the unplowed Squaw Mountain Lookout Service Rd. (Forest Service Road 1921, marked on a small metal stake at the trailhead). The road’s generous width, steady grade and constant uphill make it easy to establish a constant

The hike up Squaw Mountain Road provides views north to James Peak and the Indian Peaks. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

FRONT RANGE

pace. You are immediately rewarded for your choice of hikes with a grandiose panorama on your left: James Peak, the Indian Peaks, and Longs Peak flare out like a peacock’s tail. After about 0.3 mile, the Old Squaw Pass Rd. (see below), now also a recreational trail, crosses your route at an acute angle. Go straight and continue your steady ascent. The route heads southeast, with a few curves, including a hairpin after about another 0.3 mile, followed by a long straightaway at a somewhat steeper pitch. Now the views are on the right, and they are grand. Chief Mountain and Papoose Mountain, both over 11,000 feet, are just across the Metz Creek Valley, but the huge massif of 14,264foot Mt. Evans dominates the landscape and can easily fill the frame of a telephoto lens. The road then makes four quick switchbacks, which skiers must take straight but which you can shortcut by snowshoeing straight up through the woods. At the fifth switchback, you are at Squaw Mountain’s 11,486-foot summit, right at timberline. It is the antithesis of a wilderness summit, with a forest of telecommunication towers bristling from the mountain’s rounded top. A fire lookout perches on a mound of lichen-encrusted granite. Several auxiliary buildings, including a toilet (mercifully left unlocked in winter), are scattered about the summit. The sensational views, stretching from Longs Peak to Pikes Peak, make the hike worthwhile.

■ Moderate Distance • 3.8 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,050 feet (eastern end) Highest elevation • 11,040 feet Elevation difference • 990 feet Snowmobiles • Yes, but there may be prohibitions in the future Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #104, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Squaw Pass, Idaho Springs

To reach the trailhead, follow the same route as for Squaw Mountain (Trail #50), but stop at the parking area on the left side of the road at about 10 miles. Old Squaw Pass Rd. lies just south of and roughly parallel to the paved road—incidentally, the highest continuous road in this part of the state that is plowed for year-round use—that you drove up on. It is primarily an east–west route, but several generous curves that contour around Squaw Mountain, Papoose Mountain, and Chief Mountain change the orientation for short stretches. In the middle is a north–south section. Whenever there are breaks in the conifers, you can count on excellent views. Obviously, you can do an out-and-back hike, turning around anywhere you like and retracing your steps to the trailhead, but because the old road shadows the new—or vice versa— you have the option of a car shuttle. There are four additional marked connector trails from other parking pullouts, including the route to Squaw Mountain, which crosses the Old Squaw Pass Rd. The farthest pullout is 3.8 miles up Hwy. 103 from the first one.

Snowshoeing

Trail 51 OLD SQUAW PASS RD.

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Idaho Springs and Georgetown Georgetown– Loveland Pass Trails Georgetown, the Clear Creek County seat, is as picture-perfect a Victorian town as you’ll ever see. Gorgeous little houses, and some that are not so little, create a wonderful residential area surrounding a lovely downtown with nice shops, restaurants, and cafes. Georgetown is also the gateway to Guanella Pass, which separates the Clear Creek/North Platte and Deer Creek/South Platte drainages. Interstate 70 west of Georgetown continues to thread through deep valleys flanked by high mountains, and several good trailheads are just off the highway. For tourist information, contact the Georgetown Promotion Commission, P.O. Box 426, Georgetown, CO 80444; (800) 472-8230; www.georgetowncolorado.com.

NORTHERN

Trail 52 WALDORF MINE RD. ■ ◆ Moderate for the first mile; moderate to challenging to Sidney Mine; challenging thereafter Distance • 1 mile (one way) for a moderate hike to 5.9 miles (one way) for a very difficult one Avalanche hazard • Generally low, but some moderately hazardous sections Starting elevation • 9,540 feet Highest elevation • 11,600 feet (at the Waldorf Mine) Elevation difference • 2,060 feet (to the Waldorf Mine) Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #104, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Grays Peak

Get off Interstate 70 at Exit 228 and work your way through the center of Georgetown, to the Guanella Pass Rd. (Clear Creek Country Road 118) and up 2.5 miles to a parking pullout to the right, on the apex of the second big switchback. Leavenworth Rd. (Forest Service Road 248) follows Leavenworth Gulch and is your route basically southwest to the old Waldorf Mine. A number of other old roads are tightly packed into the gulch, so a good map is especially useful when you snowshoe here, especially after a storm has obliterated previous tracks.

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The bare-rock Squaw Mountain summit hardly qualifies as a wilderness setting, but the views can’t be beat. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

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The first mile bears little avalanche risk and makes a nice, short but moderately challenging hike due to the first section’s steepness. The first stretch climbs parallel to the Guanella Pass Rd. and then bends to the right. The main road passes under a large power line and continues straight at the first intersection, but then begins a series of curves for about 2 miles before straightening out again. After you cross the creek, the creek bed will be on your left, although as the gully narrows, you might not always spot it under a deep mantle of snow. Whenever you cross an avalanche path, do so one at a time and with great caution. For a quick, casual tour, the 1-mile mark is a good place to retrace your steps and return to the trailhead. After the initial steep section, the route intersperses relatively flat sections with occasional climbs. As long as the avalanche danger is low, you can continue as far as you like, returning by the same route. The Sidney Mine, about 3.5 miles from the trailhead, is a popular turnaround spot. The road ends at the Waldorf Mine, which is etched onto the north side of Argentine Peak and into Colorado mining history. There is considerable avalanche activity right at the Waldorf Mine, so turn back before it if hazardous conditions have been reported.

◆ Challenging Distance • 3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to moderate Starting elevation • 11,650 feet Highest elevation • 14,060 feet Elevation difference • 2,410 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #104, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Mt. Evans

If you have the ambition, desire, and skill to snowshoe up a fourteener, this would be a good one to try first. As an exceptionally accessible, technically easy peak with a straightforward route, it lends itself to extending your snowshoeing goals. It is receiving so much summer and winter use that Forest Service officials have become concerned about the impact of so much traffic, especially in the willows area at the base of the mountain (see below), an important winter habitat for ptarmigan. In addition to environmental considerations, a winter hike up Mt. Bierstadt or any fourteener is not a trivial excursion. Be confident in your backcountry skills, go with an experienced partner, be well equipped, and be ready to turn around any time you feel uncomfortable. Because of Mt. Bierstadt’s high elevation, the likelihood of strong chilling mid-winter winds and the possibility of snowslides above treeline, this is recommended as a spring snowshoeing excursion, when the snowpack has stabilized and the weather is milder—and typical spring snows will have covered, rather than blown off, the rocks higher on the mountain. Also, be prepared for an excursion that combines snowshoeing in the deposition areas near the bottom and bare-boot hiking near the top.

Snowshoeing

Trail 53 MT. BIERSTADT

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Idaho Springs and Georgetown The trailhead for the Bierstadt Trail (Forest Service Trail #711) to the mountain’s 14,060foot summit is right off the Guanella Pass Rd. (County Road 381), 10.7 miles south of Georgetown and 5.3 miles north of Grant, which makes it a super-accessible fourteener. In summer, hikers must muck through a large, high-altitude marsh, known as “the willows” for the thick bushes that thrive there. In winter, the road is plowed and the mountain is just as accessible, but the wetlands are frozen and deep snow covers the willows in the large basin at Bierstadt’s base. Navigating the willow maze, which doesn’t seem quite so mazelike under a blanket of snow, is a kick on snowshoes—and a wooden bridge built recently helps direct traffic the best way. You can also cross the willows and explore the great open areas on the mountain’s lower flanks without undertaking a major climb. Having said all that, I have to caution that blowing snow and whiteouts are not uncommon on the lower

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The high, wild terrain of Guanella Pass, south of Georgetown, is accessible to snowshoers. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

mountain, so keep a wary eye on the weather if you decide to try a Bierstadt snowshoe climb. The route, which is often obvious from skiers and snowshoers who have packed a path through the snow, quickly enters the Mt. Evans Wilderness. From the trailhead, descend slightly into the willows at the head of the Scott Gomer Creek drainage then begin ascending the mountain’s broad western base. As you climb, the route tends toward the southeast. Fairly gentle at first, it steepens as it approaches a rockband and curves to avoid those rocks. The final section ascends Bierstadt’s rocky west ridge to the summit. The windblown summit is often clear of snow, so the last stretch might not require snowshoers. If you make it to the top and the weather is calm enough for you to admire the view, you will have a stunning 360-degree panorama of surrounding peaks, including Mt. Evans, Bierstadt’s nearest neighbor. Return the way you came.

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◆ Challenging Distance • 2.2 miles (one way, to treeline) Avalanche hazard • Low to moderate in lower sections, but may be severe above 10,800 feet Starting elevation • 10,400 feet Highest elevation • 11,400 feet (treeline) Elevation difference • 1,000 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #104, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Loveland Pass, Grays Peak

The trailhead for this popular year-round route (Forest Service Road 98) is right off Interstate 70’s nameless Exit 218, which is 1.9 miles west of Bakerville. Turn right to the large, restroomequipped parking area. The trail’s popularity is matched only by its slide potential in the higher, open areas. Before you take this route, it is especially important to call the Colorado Avalanche Information Center (see Appendix E, page 337) to check conditions, and don’t even consider anything but the lower, wooded portions of this route if there’s a warning for the region.

Begin by ascending an old, unpaved road that angles away from the trailhead, heading northwest on the left fork of a trail junction (Watrous Gulch is the right fork). The Herman Gulch Trail parallels the creek of the same name. The first 0.4 mile is the toughest part, a short but dauntingly steep climb that can provide the additional challenge of avoiding fast-moving skiers as they descend. But the trail becomes more gentle as it passes through heavily wooded areas interspersed with clearings. After the slope eases, exercise normal precautions around the slide paths. When you approach a beautiful basin, take a look, but don’t be tempted. It is time to turn back, because this is real avalanche territory. That beautiful basin half-a-mile farther up the trail will still be around for a summer hike, when you can safely go all the way up to Herman Lake.

Snowshoeing

Trail 54 HERMAN GULCH

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Idaho Springs and Georgetown Trail 55 BAKERVILLE–LOVELAND TRAIL ● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 4.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,780 feet (Bakerville) Highest elevation • 10,640 feet (Loveland Valley) Elevation difference • 860 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #104, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Loveland Pass, Grays Peak

The trees were cut for this relatively new route and the trail was roughed in late 1996–1997. By the following winter, even without an official fanfare-filled opening (or even a full parking area and signage), it had been discovered by snowshoers and cross-country skiers seeking easy access and a good trail that provides distance rather than a technical or route-finding challenge. It follows Clear Creek, paralleling but satisfactorily remote from Interstate 70, between Bakerville (Exit 221) and the easternmost parking lot of Loveland Valley (Exit 216). A parking area and signs (and restrooms) will someday grace the eastern trailhead, which is located on the southwestern quadrant of the exit. Loveland Valley, with its food service and day lodge, already offers amenities and services aplenty. The trail will eventually be paved for four-season recreational use, but it will not be plowed, so snowshoeing will always be a winter option on this wide route. The trail runs south of Clear Creek, with a few year-round bridges and additional winter crossings. You can snowshoe this trail in either direction with a car shuttle or as an out-and-back route, turning around whenever you choose.

Trail 56 DRY GULCH TRAIL ■ Moderate Distance • 2 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None in the trees; low to moderate in the basin Starting elevation • 10,680 feet Highest elevation • 11,000 feet Lowest elevation • 10,560 feet Elevation difference • 440 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #104, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Loveland Pass

Perhaps the most appealing part of this route is its unsurpassed accessibility from the major route into the mountains. Though it is relatively short and relatively easy, the elevation might get your heart pumping. Take Interstate 70 west to Exit 216 (Loveland Pass) and pull over at the chain-up area at the head of the ramp. Scramble over the snowbank and follow a wide unplowed road in the direction you came— that is, to the northeast, directly parallel to the highway. Traffic sounds and the view of the Loveland Valley ski Area across the freeway remind you of just how convenient this route is. A gentle 0.5-mile descent takes you to a gate, usually half-buried in the snow. After you go around it, the route bends to the left (north) and gets just a little steeper. After another 0.5 mile, you will go around another half-submerged gate, and soon you will pass a stockade-fence corral on your right in which a fleet of construction vehicles have been impounded for the winter. At this point, the views really improve, and Interstate 70’s traffic noise quickly fades. As the route again bends to the left (northwest), the gulch flares out into a stunning basin. At this point, you are no longer on a defined, snowed-over road but on a free-form route that leads most directly

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which is just about at 11,000 feet. When you return to the lowest gate and begin the last leg of the return to the chain-up area, you might find yourself breathing hard on this flat road. You’ll be surprised, if you check your altimeter, that the ascent back to your vehicle is a little over 100 feet. If You Want a Longer Hike. If the

weather is clear and there are no reported slide hazards (which might mean wait for spring), you can go on to treeline, about 1.5 miles ahead. Skiers and snowboarders tend to continue another 1,000 vertical feet to the saddle south of Hagar Mountain and beyond to the summit. You can too if conditions are right and you’re in the mood for a major climb.

Snowshoeing

toward Hagar Mountain, a favorite of backcountry skiers and snowboarders as well as snowshoers. This basin is just below the Continental Divide, and the winds can be fierce and tracks can be obscured by blown snow. But on relatively calm days you will probably be able to follow previous tracks. Continue ascending, with Dry Creek on your left, into the lower section of this broad basin, enfolded by Hagar ahead of you on the right and Mt. Trelease on the left. On the right, directly above, is Mt. Bethel, whose pair of vertical snow fences are visible from Loveland Pass and the upper slopes of the Loveland ski area. You’ll pass small stands of conifers and a number of lone trees and one lovely aspen grove on the right. A good turnaround spot is the point where the route enters thick trees,

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A gray day on the Front Range brings perfect snow. (Photo by Jack Lenzo)

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GETTING THERE Interstate 25, Colorado’s only major north–south highway, bisects

Colorado Springs, and U.S. 24 intersects it just south of downtown. T aking this route west from Colorado Springs leads to the recreational hear t of the Pikes Peak region, and every snowshoeing venue in this chapter is located in relation to it. Colorado Springs is 67 miles south of Denver, 129 miles south of For t Collins, and 42 miles nor th of Pueblo.

Snowshoeing

PIKES PEAK is a commanding presence. This huge massif rises to 14,100 feet above sea level and some 7,400 feet from the base to the summit, imbuing it with physical bulk that is unmatched in Colorado. It dominates the western skyline from Colorado Springs and the eastern plains so dramatically that early explorers, gazing from below, estimated its elevation at twice what it actually is. “Pikes Peak or Bust” was the slogan hanging from many a wagon during Colorado’s gold rush because the mountain was visible from such a great distance. With the rapid development of Colorado Springs, the mountain became a tourist magnet. In fact, schoolteacher Katherine Lee Bates was so taken by the great vista from her room at the Antlers Hotel in Colorado Springs that she was moved to write America the Beautiful. That, in part, is why Pikes Peak has been nicknamed “America’s Mountain,” giving it an emotional dominance as well as a physical one. Manitou Springs, nestled against the mountain’s eastern flank, can be considered the gateway to what has come to be called the Pikes Peak region. It offers an abundance of places to stay, from budget motels to excellent inns, including the elegant and historic Cliff House, grandly restored and reopened in 1999 and now one of Colorado’s showplaces. Whether modest or magnificent, all Manitou Springs lodgings have ample room availability and offseason rates in winter. Still, hardcore recreationists often hurry west on U.S. Hwy. 24, bypassing this charming little town. Pikes Peak’s bulk separates the sprawl of Colorado Springs, Colorado’s second-largest city, from the sparsely populated hinterlands on its west side. Today, half-a-million summer sightseers annually drive up the Pikes Peak Toll Rd. (referred to on some maps and signs as the Pikes Peak Hwy.) or ride the Pikes Peak Cog Railway, and many hundreds hike to the top of the mountain. The auto road is open in winter, but just how much of it is open is weatherdependent. Sometimes the road is drivable all the way to the summit (and then, the full toll is charged). At other times, when it is open to just Glen Haven or even lower, the toll is reduced (for details, see Pikes Peak description). The backside of Pikes Peak contains a crazy quilt of public and private land, which means limited or no access to many enticing snowshoeing areas and making accessible trails all the more treasured. Some trails are found directly on lower portions of Pikes Peak, but others —notably at Mueller State Park and the Florissant Fossil Beds—are not part of the massif. Their benefit is that they provide exceptional views of this majestic mountain. For general information, contact the Pikes Peak Country Attractions Association, 354 Manitou Ave., Manitou Springs, CO 80829, (800) 525-2250; Manitou Springs Chamber of Commerce, 354 Manitou Ave., Manitou Springs, CO 80829, (800) 642-2567, (719) 6855089, www.manitousprings.org; or for additional regional information, the Colorado Springs Convention and Visitors Bureau, 515 South Cascade Ave., Colorado Springs, CO 80903, (800) 888-4748, (719) 635-7506, www.coloradosprings-travel.com.

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The commanding physical presence dominating the Colorado Springs is Pikes Peak, a mountain that—thanks to a road and a cog railway to the summit—ranks as North America’s most visited mountain and the second most visited mountain in the world, behind Japan’s Mount Fuji. By far, the vast majority visit in summer. But this 14,100-foot massif is a winter destination too. There’s a lot of snowshoeing potential on Pikes Peak, with snow and road conditions on any given winter day determining where to go. If there’s snow on the ground all the way down to Manitou Springs, you can drive up Ruxton Ave. from the center of town, pass the cog railway station, and turn right at the power plant to a parking lot at the foot of Barr Trail (Forest Service Road 620). With adequate cover at this elevation, the lower portion of this classic ascent route makes for a convenient and challenging snowshoe trail. From a trailhead at 6,840 feet, the route begins with some steps and switchbacks up a very short, steep pitch. If this exposed section has melted off, simply hike up it and put on your snowshoes farther along. The trail then gentles out for the long hike through Englemann Canyon and steepens again as it ascends a long ridge. If you make it as far as Barr Camp, a popular stop for summer hikers, you will have covered 5.6 miles and gained nearly 3,000 feet of elevation, and you can consider yourself a very strong and fit snowshoer. For most mortals, the many snowshoeing options off the Pikes Peak Toll Rd. are a more sensible option. Follow U.S. 24 west about 10 miles and take the well-marked left exit. Pay your toll at the entrance gate and begin driving up the road, where you hike depends on snow conditions and weather. You can select a snowed-over hiking trail, but many of the snowshoeing venues are campgrounds, roadside picnic areas, and other open spaces that lend themselves more to random exploration.

Unless your vehicle remains in sight, however, carry a topo map and compass, pay attention to landmarks, and be prepared to follow your own tracks back rather than making a loop through unfamiliar terrain. In high, exposed areas, be conscious about avalanche hazards. Though Pikes Peak is in America’s touristic mainstream, it is a huge, complex, and largely wild mountain, and it is easy to get into trouble if you’re not paying attention. Two miles from the gateway is a large parking lot for the Crow Creek picnic area. In good snow years, this provides access to some excellent snowshoeing terrain. You can hike the upper stretch of the Mt. Esther Trail without the challenging ascent from Chipita Park (Trail 57 following). Three and a half miles farther and on the left is the Crystal Reservoir Visitors Center. At various times, this facility has been closed in winter, but in recent years, the concessionaire operated on winter weekends. In any case, the gentle slopes on the north side of the reservoir provide excellent easy free-form snowshoeing with easy access to the parking lot and excellent views of the Pikes Peak summit. More easy terrain awaits at the Halfway picnic ground, where beginning snowshoers and families can cavort in a large area studded with widely spaced pines. Located at about 9,700 feet and also shaded, it is more snowsure than the reservoir. If you want to get some high-altitude exercise by climbing hills on snowshoes, the ghost trails of the defunct Pikes Peak Ski Area, on the left about 12 miles up the road, will give you the chance. You can get a good workout by snowshoeing up, with or without skis or with a snowboard on your back for the descent. A short distance farther, also on the left (parking is better on the right, however), is a flat area that looks like a frozen lake. Nicknamed “The Lagoon,” this modest flat is perfect for wary beginning snowshoers and small children, and the surrounding slopes and woods offer additional opportunities for exploration.

FRONT RANGE Pikes Peak Region

Snowshoeing

windblown and miserable. If the weather is nice, you can hike to the Elk Park Overlook or over the Elk Park Knoll, a distinct promontory to the northeast. The terrain is gentle, which is just fine at over 11,500 feet. For a 24-hour recorded road report on the Pikes Peak Toll Rd. and other important information, call (800) 318-9505. You can also obtain some basic information from the mountain’s Web site at www.pikespeakcolorado.com.

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The road is normally open to the public as far as the historic Glen Cove Inn, 13 miles from the gate, at 11,400 feet. The hills and woods behind the facility, which houses a snack bar, gift shop, and restroom, offer excellent free-form snowshoeing. Continue up the road for a little over a mile—driving if the road is open or on foot if it’s not. The unpaved road on your left is the entry to Elk Park. Drop down slightly to a large open area just off the road that can offer fine snowshoeing or be

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The dramatic, tilted spire called Banana Rock has lent its name to a Pikes Peak–region winter trail. (Photo by Claire Walter)

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Pikes Peak Region Trail 57 MT. ESTHER TRAIL (LOWER SECTION) ◆ Challenging Distance • 1 mile (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 7,880 feet Highest elevation • 8,780 feet Elevation difference • 900 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps: Trails Illustrated #137, Pikes Peak, Cañon City; USGS 7.5-Minute, Cascade and Woodland Park

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This is a demanding trail by all measures. It is difficult for many vehicles to reach and steep to snowshoe once you are there. First, the vehicular challenge. The trailhead is located high above the community of Chipita Park. Narrow, shaded residential streets intertwine on the steep hillside on the southwestern side of town. From Colorado Springs, travel west on U.S. 24 to the Chipita Park–Green Mountain Falls exit, cross the eastbound lane and continue down the hill to Chipita Park Rd. and turn left. The easiest way to the trailhead is to turn right on Uneda Rd., under the wooden sign. After one long block, turn right again onto Ute Rd. and continue for 0.4 mile, turning left onto Mountain Rd. Ascend this steep road to a narrow unplowed road angling off to the right. It is marked with a small Mt. Esther Trail sign and a notice that county maintenance ends there. There is very limited parking on the left, just across from the trailhead. Partly because of the difficult access, partly because of steepness (rapidly gaining the first 720 feet), partly because it is relatively new as an official trail (only recently have private-

property issues been resolved), and partly because it is simply not well known, this trail (Forest Service Trail #754) is little used by hardy winter hikers, even less by snowshoers, and rarely, if at all, by skiers. The trail starts steeply, contouring in a southeasterly direction up the mountain with a series of switchbacks. This wooded northeast-facing slope hillside holds the snow, and because there is so little traffic, the trail tends not to get packed down into a tricky, bulletproof surface, but you will appreciate your snowshoes’ gripping crampons both on the ascent and the descent. Poles are a decided advantage on this trail. At the top of the ridge, the trail drops into Crow Gulch (spelled Crowe Gulch on some maps). You can turn around here and return down the same route, or take the left trail and continue for 1 mile to the Crow Gulch picnic ground, located along the Pikes Peak Toll Rd. If you can arrange a car shuttle, which requires paying the toll, you won’t need to negotiate this steep, tricky downhill—but your shuttle will have to make it up to the trailhead on the Chipita Park side. If You Want a Longer Hike. At the intersection with the Crow Gulch Trail, the Mt. Esther Trail (Forest Service Trail #754A) makes a sharp bend to the right and continues past the Crow Gulch picnic area and trailhead. There, it ascends a long, far gentler ridge to the rounded hump that is the top of Mt. Esther, about 1.5 miles farther (Forest Service Trail #745A, below). If you do the entire route, you will have accomplished a difficult hike with nearly 1,300 feet elevation gain and 3.5 miles in one-way distance.

FRONT RANGE Pikes Peak Region

Distance • 1.5 miles Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,780 feet Highest elevation • 10,100 feet Elevation difference • 1,330 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #137, Pikes Peak, Cañon City; USGS 7.5-Minute, Cascade and Woodland Park

Take the Pikes Peak Toll Rd. 2 miles beyond the toll station to the Crow Gulch picnic area and trailhead. Follow the Mt. Esther Trail (Forest Service Trail #745A) to the north though aspens and conifers. This upper portion of the Mt. Esther Trail faces south and southeast, so in low-snow periods, it might not be snowshoeable. When there is good cover, however, the upper section is a gentler hike than the lower portion. The first three-quarters of the upper trail continues through the woods, and the final stretch opens up to provide excellent views, especially down to Crystal Reservoir to the west and up to the Pikes Peak summit to the south. Even in summer, most hikers don’t bother with Mt. Esther’s rocky summit, because no decent trail has been constructed to the top and the views en route are considered better than the views from the highpoint. In winter, turn around when snow gives way to granite.

■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 1.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,970 feet Highest elevation • 11,000 feet Elevation difference • 1,030 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #137, Pikes Peak, Cañon City; USGS 7.5-Minute, Pikes Peak

Take U.S. 24 west from Colorado Springs to Divide. Turn left (south) on Hwy. 67 for 4.5 miles and turn left at the sign for Rocky Mountain Camp and Crags Campground. This road (Teller County Road 62/Forest Service Road 383) is unpaved, but regular cars can usually handle the first 2 miles to the Rocky Mountain Mennonite Camp. At the camp, turn right and continue up the road, which is steep and narrow enough—and maintained more erratically—to make four-wheel-drive virtually mandatory. As an alternate access route, which saves 0.2 mile and 50 or so feet but may also involve some bushwacking, you can park in the dayhiker’s lot at the trailhead for The Crags Trail for free. From this lot, take The Crags Trail (see page 124) for a few hundred feet. Keep an eye out for three brown water pipes sticking up on the left of the trail. Very shortly after those pipes, bear right onto a side trail. This option requires crossing Fourmile Creek before joining the Banana Rock Trail. Try to park at the dayhikers’ lot beyond The Crags Campground, though the campground itself provides the easiest access. Parking at a campsite officially requires a fee (and a campground host is usually on duty on weekends to see that users pay), but parking there for a few hours during winter non-holiday weekdays usually causes no problem. Several social trails

Snowshoeing

■ ◆ Moderate to challenging

Trail 59 BANANA ROCK TRAIL

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Pikes Peak Region join to become the Banana Rock Trail— particularly from campsites 7, 9, or 11, on the right side of the road as you are approaching the area. Snowshoe through any of these sites and continue a short distance up a slope until you reach a route through the thick coniferous forest. This is not presently an official trail, but following ski and snowshoe tracks is a good strategy. The main trail—an old road that you will join shortly—is wide enough to follow quite easily. It follows a small drainage, a narrow tributary that flows into Fourmile Creek. The route angles consistently to the eastsoutheast, climbing steadily through the trees. About 0.75 mile from the start of the hike, you will enter a small clearing with a sprinkling of aspens amid the fir and spruce. On your left is a view of Banana Rock, a dramatic granite formation that has given this trail its name. But don’t get too excited, because you will soon come to two more openings in the trees through which even better aspects present themselves. In the next 0.5 mile you will pass a lichen-covered rock wall on the left. In addition, note the dramatic shift from the thick montane forest to a subalpine zone of smaller trees, lightning-struck snags, and granite boulders. As you approach 11,000 feet, the trail narrows and becomes indistinct. You can continue through the labyrinthian mix of rock and subalpine timber until you get a satisfactory view of the long saddle between Little Pikes Peak and the true Pikes Peak summit. Return by the same route.

Trail 60 THE CRAGS TRAIL ■ ◆ Moderate to overlook; moderate to challenging to summit Distance • 2 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 10,080 feet Highest elevation • 10,820 feet Elevation difference • 740 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #137, Pikes Peak, Cañon City; USGS 7.5-Minute, Pikes Peak, and USGS 7.5-Minute, Woodland Park

Drive as you would to access the Banana Rock Trail (above), but 1.5 miles past the Mennonite Camp, pass through The Crags Campground to the dayhikers’ parking area. If the day lot is full, you might have to drive back down the hill and pull into one of the campsites (see fee policy above). From the trailhead, follow the well-used Crags Trail (Forest Service Road 60) past a trail register on the right; you’ll soon see some protruding pipes from a water supply monitoring station on your left. Continue straight along the main trail. The climb is gentle and steady through the woods and, after about 0.33 mile, through a large clearing with a stark granite wall on your left and a granite pinnacle straight ahead. These are the first of many spectacular outcroppings that characterize this scenic route. You soon reenter the trees, mostly aspen on your left and spruce on your right. In this sheltered valley, you will often hear bird songs even in the heart of winter. The next open area, about a mile from the trailhead, is a long, gentle lowland. Pass this frozen marsh and its protruding bushes on the left or the right. Winter routes on both sides meet when you start your ascent again. Climb a small rise and soon more rock pinnacles

FRONT RANGE Pikes Peak Region

become visible through the tallest conifers. Hike through the thickening forest and pass a huge boulder in the middle of the trail, then continue through the woods until you reach a north-facing overlook that provides excellent views of a large valley. Many snowshoers turn around here and return by the same route. However, if you are up for a final short, moderately steep pull to one of the most spectacular spots in Colorado, take a sharp switchback to the left and continue climbing up a significantly steeper part of the trail. Follow it as it bends to the right, and then thread your way up through large protruding rocks. Here you will see more of nature’s sculptures—gray snags from long-ago lightning strikes, weatherformed limber pines, and fantastically shaped reddish boulders. The top of The Crags is a rounded summit featuring more wind-sculpted outcroppings, balanced rocks, pinnacles, and spires. The panorama is stunning—the beefy shoulder of Pikes Peak and, in the distance, views of the Rampart, Sawatch, Sangre de Cristo, and Tarryall Ranges. Return the way you came.

Mueller State Park features miles of uncrowded winter trails, plus great views of the huge Pikes Peak massif. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Most of Colorado’s State Parks are created around reservoirs and artificial lakes, but Mueller State Park is a unique landscape of ridges, valleys, forests, and meadows that offers excellent snowshoeing and boundless views of the west side of Pikes Peak from many vantage points. This park has a rich history. Abundant game made it a fruitful Ute hunting ground until its settlement in the 1860s. It was logged to supply the nearby mining boomtowns of Cripple Creek and Victor and used as grazing land for cattle. In more recent times, the Mueller family began assembling cattle ranches until they had a spread of more than 12,000 acres, which family members recognized as worth saving for its natural beauty as well as a habitat for elk, bighorn sheep, mountain lions, and smaller animals. The family enlisted the aid of The Nature Conservancy to preserve the land, which is now administered by Colorado State Parks and the Colorado Division of Wildlife. The main entrance is on the west side of Hwy. 67, 3.5 miles south of the small town of Divide and U.S. 24. From the entrance gate ($5 daily per car, or a Colorado State Parks annual pass), the paved and plowed road

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Pikes Peak Region heads west into the park and soon climbs up a north–south ridge. Parking areas and trailheads are on both sides of the road. Mueller boasts 34 trails totaling more than 50 miles, and virtually all provide excellent snowshoeing. Only a handful of the shortest, easiest ones are described here. All of the trails are numbered, and you will find signs at all trail intersections, so be sure to get a park map at the entrance gate or visitors center. Registers and large display maps are located at each trailhead. Most of the trails begin on the ridge and drop down into valleys, so when you are hiking down, be aware that you will have to climb out again. All trails are accessible from the main road. Be sure to stop at the visitors center for real insight into this special place. At this writing, winter hours are from 8:30 A.M. to 4:30 P.M., seven days a week. Dogs are prohibited on the trails but permitted in campgrounds, picnic areas, and along paved roadways in the park. For park information, you can also call (719) 687-2366. The Web site for all Colorado state parks, www.parks.state.co.us, includes both general information and links to individual facilities.

Trail 61 WAPITI NATURE TRAIL ● Easy Distance • 0.8 mile (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,600 feet Lowest elevation • 9,400 feet Elevation difference • 200 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #137, Pikes Peak, Cañon City; Mueller State Park Trail Map; USGS 7.5-Minute, Divide

The shortest, easiest trail in the park (Trail #6) begins on the east end of the visitors center, goes in and out of the trees, and ends on the west end of the visitors center. In summer, it is an excellent interpretive trail that showcases the park’s ecosystem in microcosm. In winter, it is a pretty as well as informative and is manageable by even the tiniest snowshoer—and short enough for parental portage should the tiniest snowshoer get tired.

FRONT RANGE Pikes Peak Region

● Easy Distance • 1.5 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,720 feet Highest elevation • 9,800 feet Lowest elevation • 9,400 feet Elevation difference • 400 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #137, Pikes Peak, Cañon City; Mueller State Park Trail Map; USGS 7.5-Minute, Divide

The School Pond trailhead (Trail #2) is accessible from a small parking area on the left side of the main road, about 1.3 miles from the park entrance. It is the second trailhead on the left after the park’s entrance. You need only head through a metal gate and begin a gentle ascent of 80 feet along a wide road. To do this loop trail counterclockwise, go straight through the intersection with Trail #23 and descend past aspens, conifers, and open meadows. Trail #23 rejoins the School Pond Trail, coming in from the right. From many

spots, you will see Pikes Peak and neighboring Sentinel Peak straight in front of you as you descend into the treeless hollow in which School Pond is nestled. Pass the pond on your right. The trail bends to the left and begins climbing out of the valley. After rising about 200 feet, you will see Trail #21 on the right, but Trail #2 bends to the left, continuing up along a ridge. Soon, Trail #21 rejoins your route from the right. When you reach the highest point on the ridge, you will have climbed about 320 feet above the pond, and you will see the first trail intersection in front of you, completing the loop. Turn right on the road and drop back down to the trailhead.

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If You Want a Longer Hike. You can

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lengthen the loop a little by taking the Stoner Mill Trail (#23) or significantly by taking the Aspen Trail (#21). Both are longer loops that branch off from and then rejoin School Pond Trail.

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Pikes Peak Region Trail 63 LOST POND TRAIL ● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 0.4 mile (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,500 feet Highest elevation • 9,500 feet Lowest elevation • 9,300 feet Elevation difference • 200 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #137, Pikes Peak, Cañon City; Mueller State Park Trail Map; USGS 7.5-Minute, Divide

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The parking area for the Lost Pond Trail (Trail #11) is on the left, about 0.25 mile past the visitors center. Begin by walking down a gentle path and turn right onto a wide trail. At the next trail intersection, bear left and follow along a ridge and then descend gently through a mixed aspen and conifer forest. The picturesque, snow-covered pond sits in a small clearing. Return the way you came.

Shoeing around an old homestead at Florissant Fossil Beds is interesting visually but not challenging physically. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

Trail 64 LOST POND/GEER POND TRAIL/OUTLOOK TRAIL ■ Moderate Distance • 4 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,500 feet Highest elevation • 9,500 feet Lowest elevation • 9,150 feet Elevation difference • 350 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #137, Pikes Peak, Cañon City; Mueller State Park Trail Map; USGS 7.5-Minute, Divide

To make this hike counterclockwise, drop down to Lost Pond (above) but continue past the pond onto Geer Pond Trail (Trail #25), which drops steeply to a stream crossing. The Geer Pond Trail continues to the right, but to make this loop you need to go straight onto the Outlook Ridge Trail (Trail #7), which begins at the stream crossing. Begin the steep (but short) ascent out of the drainage, along a

FRONT RANGE Pikes Peak Region

Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument This island of prehistory, located less than 40 miles from modern Colorado Springs, includes everything from giant sequoia stumps (a tree species no longer found in Colorado) to tiny insects covered with lava and ash from a longago volcanic eruption as well as with sediment from a former sea and preserved in stone for millions of years. Before the area was protected by the National Park Service as the Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, untold thousands of specimens were removed from this site. Winter users are less intrigued

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by the paleontology than by the web of appealing snow-covered trails. Staff at the visitors center issue a nice little trail map, offer free advice, and even will lend out a pair of classic wooden surplus snowshoes while supplies last. To reach Florissant, drive west on U.S. 24 and turn left (south) on Teller County Route 1. Drive 2.5 miles from the turnoff, passing the Hornbek Homestead, an authentic old dwelling from the pioneer days, and you will come to the main entrance to the visitors center on your right. For the easiest of Florissant’s mild snowshoe experiences, you can explore the homestead, whose corral and hilly meadows present an image of the past. Virtually any of the summer trails are pleasant to snowshoe when snow cover is adequate. However, even if conditions don’t warrant snowshoeing, you can always take a bare-boot hike. The shortest route is the Walk Through Time Trail, a flat 0.5-mile loop accessed directly from the visitors center, highlighted by petrified sequoia trees that are a curiosity at any time but especially beautiful when dusted with snow. More difficult but in no way challenging for a fit adult is the 4-mile Hornbek Wildlife Loop, with a 120-foot elevation gain, or the Shootin’ Star Trail, a 2-mile loop with an elevation difference of 200 feet. The most scenic option is the 2.2mile Twin Rock Trail. The current fee is $2 per person or $4 per family, collected at the main entrance. The visitors center is open daily from 8:00 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. Even though the area is close to Colorado Springs, it can have totally different weather— so a phone call to (719) 748-3253 would be wise before setting out. The visitors center address is P.O. Box 185, 15807 Teller County 1, Florissant, CO 80816-0185; www.nps.gov/flfo/.

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wooded hillside. The trail makes a sharp turn to the left, following a fence line and climbing steeply. It then makes a sharp turn to the right, still following the fence and dropping slightly before climbing again. At the ridge, the trail bends to the left and continues climbing but much more gently. You can stay on the trail or take short out-and-back detours to a trio of scenic viewpoints—the Lone Eagle Overlook, Red Tail Overlook, or Raven Ridge Overlook. Each one offers a different perspective of the splendid Pikes Peak–Sentinel Peak panorama to the east, as well as glimpses of the Sangre de Cristo Range to the southwest. When you reach the Red Tail Overlook, you will be at the same elevation as Lost Pond. Continue to the top of the ridge, where you will find a large picnic area and parking lot. You may be able to find a small connector trail that parallels the main road, or just walk along the road to return to the Lost Creek parking area. If you prefer steep descents and milder climbs, you can do this trail in a clockwise direction from the picnic area.

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82

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T Trails 121-123

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Buena Vista

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Gunnison Salida 50


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W Westcliffe

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Alamosa

Pagosa Springs

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CENTRAL Summit County: Trails 65–78 The Vail Valley: Trails 79–83 Leadville and Twin Lakes: Trails 84–95 Aspen and Snowmass: Trails 96–106 Glenwood Springs and Carbondale: Trails 107–110 Crested Butte: Trails 111–120 Fairplay and South Park: Trails 121–123 Salida and Buena Vista: Trails 124–134

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70

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SUMMIT COUNTY is well named. This area of high peaks and deep valleys appeals equally to a growing population of locals who love the lofty lifestyle, to vacationers, and to day-trippers, for it combines backcountry access, resort amenities, and Front Range accessibility. There are four main towns (the historic county seat of Breckenridge, which is now one of the nation’s leading winter-sports meccas, plus the newer, surrounding towns of Silverthorne, Frisco, and Dillon) and two built-for-skiing, high-density resorts (Keystone and Copper Mountain). In recent years, the county has been undergoing a phenomenal building boom. Yesterday’s open meadow is today’s construction site and tomorrow’s housing development. As you drive along Interstate 70, poised for a wilderness experience, you’ll be assaulted by hot-and-cold-running fast-food chains, an outlet center that sprawls on both sides of the interstate and even a Wal-Mart. It’s suburbia in the mountains. For some longtime Summit County fans, it’s a dream. For others, it’s a nightmare. This isn’t the first time this rugged region has boomed, as the old mine workings, old townsites, and vast network of mining roads testify. Many backcountry valleys once housed tens of thousands of miners and merchants in some of Colorado’s richest gold camps. When mining played out, most of the towns folded and many died. Summit County slumbered and has only reawakened in the past few decades because of the construction of Interstate 70 and the popularity of mountain recreation in both summer and winter, and in a neat twist for recreationists, this building glut has led to local pressure to protect undeveloped land.

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Summit County offers high-mountain snowshoeing terrain with spectacular views. These Keystone snowshoers can look across the valley to Breckenridge. (Courtesy of Keystone Ski Resort)

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Summit County Growth exploded into the newest boom because of Summit County’s proximity to Denver. Easy access to protected backcountry for year-round recreation is also responsible for large increases in the year-round population, because many people really like to reside at the doorstep of the backcountry and there are now plenty of jobs in tourism and other fields to enable them to live there. But despite the quick suburbanization of some parts of the county, it is astonishing that the unvarnished backcountry is still close. Locals practically step out their doors for excellent snowshoeing, and visitors share with locals the backcountry trails in deep valleys and up mountains all over the region. A huge amount of Summit County is public land, and it is as wild as anyone could wish.

Keystone and Montezuma Located just below Loveland Pass and the Continental Divide is an area rich in mining history, now one of Colorado’s premier ski and golf resorts. Keystone is a massive, multimountain ski resort that is still growing. Hotels, condominiums, private homes, and developed recreation from golf courses to a man-made lake have filled up much of the Snake River Valley, and now the growth is mainly up toward Montezuma, a little old mining camp trying to maintain its funky and laid-back ambience despite the rampant building in its direction. Keystone offers slick snowshoeing on a snow-covered golf course and in the form of snowshoeing tours. Montezuma offers rustic backcountry snowshoeing. For tourist information, contact Keystone Resort, P.O. Box 38, Keystone, CO 80435; (970) 496-2316; www.keystoneresort.com./ GETTING THERE From Denver, take Interstate 70 west to the high countr y. One choice is to get off at Exit 216 (Loveland Pass) and drive over the 11,992-foot pass via U.S. Hwy. 6 west. The well-marked entrance to River Run at Keystone Resor t, on your left as you come down from the pass, is also the way to the old mining camp of Montezuma and the snowshoeing routes accessed from there. The other option is to follow Interstate 70 through the Eisenhower Tunnel and get off at Exit 205 (Dillon and Silver thorne). Take U.S. 6 east for 7.7 miles, past the first Keystone Resort entrance, to the second entrance at River Run, where you will find the wellmarked Montezuma Rd. (Summit County Road 5) past the ski resor t. For Breckenridge and Frisco, continue to Exit 203 and drive south on CO 9. To reach Copper Mountain, take Exit 195.

CENTRAL Summit County

■ Moderate Distance • 3.6 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to moderate; route crosses some active avalanche paths; high beyond the Pennsylvania Mine Starting elevation • 9,960 feet Highest elevation • 10,900 feet Elevation difference • 940 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #104, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Montezuma

This is one of the prettiest and most popular winter trails in Summit County, starting in the woods and opening into a huge basin rimmed by gorgeous mountains. It is not difficult, and even the steep portions are not too steep, but if you go all the way to the mine, the distance and elevation do take their physical toll. Take Montezuma Rd. 4.9 miles to a plowed parking area on the left. Begin snowshoeing north along Peru Creek Rd. (Forest Service Road 214), which soon curves to the right (east), contouring around a wooded hillside that is actually the lower portion of the whimsically named Tiptop Peak. The road begins a long, steady, though not steep, ascent, passing several private residences. The Arapahoe Basin Ski Area is on the north side of Lenawee Mountain, which rises to your left (north), but

the lift towers and ski trails are not visible from the Peru Creek Valley. The mountain that comes into view on your right about 0.5 mile into the hike is Morgan Peak. Soon, Cooper Mountain and later Ruby Mountain drift into sight on the left (north) side of the valley, and you will see Brittle Silver Mountain on the right (south). The valley is broad and beautiful, and it might look non-threatening, but caution is called for. At 1 mile, you will pass below a slide area (carefully!), bear left, and cross Peru Creek. Chihuahua Gulch forks off to the left, but the Peru Creek route continues straight back into the valley. A short, steep ascent brings you to some old mine structures; within about 0.75 mile, you will pass the intersection with the Lenawee Trail and then Warden Rd. About 3 miles from the trailhead is another trail junction. The left fork leads to Decator, but to continue to your destination, bear right and cross the creek into Cinnamon Gulch, where the route ascends toward the Pennsylvania Mine. The major avalanche area is beyond the mine, so do not, under any circumstances, go any farther. Turn around here, or any time earlier, and return the way you came. (Snowmobilers may continue toward Horseshoe Basin and Argentine Pass, but with the combination of distance, elevation— the road ends at about 12,000 feet—and slide hazard, it is not recommended for snowshoers.)

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Summit County Trail 66 SAINTS JOHN ■ Moderate Distance • 1.3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to Saints John; moderate beyond Starting elevation • 10,300 feet Highest elevation • 10,760 feet Elevation difference • 460 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #104, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Montezuma, Keystone

From Keystone Resort, follow Montezuma Rd. 5.7 miles to the hamlet of Montezuma. Park on the right at the intersection and walk down the road to the trailhead. The trail follows Forest Service Road 275, an unplowed four-wheeldrive road that leads to the ghost town of Saints John, where Colorado’s first silver strike occurred here in 1863. The town that grew around silver mining was named after St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist (hence the plural of “saint”). It was mostly destroyed in the 1880s by an avalanche that even a twopack of patron saints could not prevent. From the trailhead, the road first dips slightly as it crosses the Snake River, which here is a modest stream, and heads west, angling along the wooded hillside with two quick switchbacks. At the fork with the trail to the Hunkidori Mine, 0.25 mile from the trailhead, bear left (southwest) along the Saints John Creek for the steady ascent to the townsite, skirting the north and northwest sides of Glacier Mountain. The steepness and elevation gain are steady on this relatively short route, which levels off only as you approach the townsite. There are still some buildings from Saints John’s short silver-mining boom. You can see the ruins of an old smelter not far

from the trail, as well as a number of cabins. Some are still in use, at least in summer, so respect private property here. Return the way you came. If You Want a Longer Hike. The road follows the creek for 2.4 much-steeper miles, making a huge hairpin turn to the Wild Irishman Mine, located on the side of Glacier Mountain at nearly 12,000 feet. This is above treeline and includes passing areas of avalanche activity, so plan your trip according to snow conditions as well as your energy level.

The Saints John Trail starts in the hamlet of Montezuma and terminates in a high basin above treeline, passing the ghost town after which it was named. (Photo by Claire Walter)

CENTRAL Summit County

■ ◆ Moderate to challenging

■ ◆ Moderate (to Snake River);

Distance • 3.4 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to the mine; moderate at the mine Starting elevation • 10,300 feet Highest elevation • 11,000 feet Elevation difference • 700 feet (plus 160-foot loss) Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #104, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Montezuma, Keystone

challenging (to Webster Pass) Distance • 1.75 miles to Snake River; 4 miles to Webster Pass (one way) Avalanche hazard • None to metal gate; low in trees for next 0.5 mile; moderate to high in open valley Starting elevation • 10,530 feet Highest elevation • 12,040 feet Elevation difference • 500 feet to Snake River; 1,510 feet to Webster Pass Snowmobiles • Yes (some snowshoe/ski segments on the lower section allow separate motorized and non-motorized travel) Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #104, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Loveland Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Montezuma, Keystone; Eagle Eye/Trails Illustrated Maps Cross-Country Skier’s Map #401 (formerly Trails Illustrated and now out of print)

Drive to Montezuma, as above, and follow the same route for Hunkidori as for Saints John. However, at the fork, 0.25 mile from the trailhead, bear right (north), drop into a small drainage past some old mine structures, and begin hiking north on a narrow trail through a tight valley. The trail bends sharply to the right (north) and then contours around Bear Mountain with small rises and drops on its generally gradual ascent for much of the distance to the mine. This trail is notable for its dense forest growth and exceptional loveliness. After 2 miles, the fun stops and the work starts as the trail makes a sharp bend to the left and loops southwestward. It switchbacks a couple of times and also gets steeper as it nears the mine, which sits in a bowl carved out of the north side of Bear Mountain, heading south and then west toward the mine itself. The avalanche hazard is greatest near the top of this route, so turn back sooner if there is any chance of a slide. Return the way you came.

Few trails provide as much scenic bang for the buck as quickly as the old mining road toward Webster Pass, for the spectacular views begin less than 1 mile from the trailhead. Webster Pass Rd. (Forest Service Road 215) climbs southward steadily to a huge open valley, with the 13,000-foot summits of Sullivan Mountain, Geneva Peak, and Landslide Peak forming its eastern wall. Unlike other nearby trails, where snowmobiles are permitted but are nevertheless outnumbered by snowshoers and skiers, Webster Pass is a very popular snowmobiling route, particularly on weekends. To reach the trailhead, drive to Montezuma, as above, and continue 1 mile past the center of the village to a parking pullout on the right. Cross the road to the wooden sign pointing to Webster Pass and begin hiking up the

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Summit County unplowed four-wheel-drive road in a southeasterly direction. (While it is shown as Forest Service Road 215 on some maps, at this writing there were no signs at the trailhead or along crucial spots along the way; be aware that a considerable amount of private land flanks the lower road.) Hike up this wide, usually well-packed road, which is also well used by snowmobilers, or as an alternative, parallel the road on the ski/ snowshoe trail that detours through the forest. To take this option, the first turn to look for is a blue diamond marker on a tree on the right, a few hundred yards from the trailhead. Bear onto a trail that is off-limits to motorized vehicles, and very quickly bear left at an unmarked fork in the trail. The trail you want climbs essentially eastward through dense woods, where you will often see animal tracks—and some private property signs to be alert to. The first time the trail comes close to the road, stay to the right of the road; after a very short distance, the trail angles back into the trees. The second time the narrow trail nears the wide road, the motorized and non-motorized routes merge. Follow it and bear right at the first fork (the left fork leads to private property), about 0.5 mile from the trailhead. At the next fork, bear right again. You will see a brown Forest Service sign marked Webster Pass directly ahead of you. Continue past that sign and then bear right, passing a metal gate. The route curves more to the south and continues through the trees. The first great view is the rocky-top north end of Teller Mountain straight ahead. Soon, a row of thirteeners on the east side of the valley comes into view. To have such spectacular vistas within a mile of a

trailhead is rare. If the avalanche danger is high, do not continue past the trees, no matter how enticing the view. However, if conditions are favorable, you can continue your ascent through an increasingly beautiful valley, with that wall of high mountains on your left and the meandering upper portion of the Snake River on your right. Pass the ruins of an old cabin on your left, sheltered in a pretty group of trees; about 1.75 miles from and 500 feet higher than the trailhead, the route crosses the Snake River and proceeds toward treeline. The section through the valley is the gentlest stretch. Depending on your energy and the weather and snow conditions, the river crossing and treeline both make good turnaround spots. As you return, remember that though you can hear snowmobiles, you might also be sharing this road with skiers, who get up a good head of steam on the fast downhill back to the trailhead. If You Want a Longer Hike. In all but the most benign conditions, it is unwise to climb above treeline, where the route steepens and a far more arduous pull up to the pass begins. You should only undertake it if avalanche hazard is not a problem. If you wish to continue, stay on the road and at a junction at about 11,000 feet, bear left. (The right fork leads west to Deer Creek.) The 12,096-foot top of the pass is often windblown and very cold, factors to consider even if there are no reports of hazardous avalanche conditions. Webster Pass separates the Snake River drainage from Hall Valley and the North Fork of the South Platte River.

CENTRAL Summit County

The hilly River Golf Course, on the west end of Keystone Resort, is turned into a Nordic center each winter that offers one of Colorado’s most comprehensive snowshoeing programs. Nordic director and former Olympian Jana Hlavaty is absolutely passionate about getting people into sports and outdoor activity, and she jumped on snowshoeing as an adjunct to her beloved cross-country skiing. The skating lanes of the groomed ski trails are open to snowshoers, who are asked only to stay off the set tracks. The spacious Nordic center building, which is the clubhouse during golf season, stocks dozens of pairs of rental snowshoes and offers several guided tours. Schedules and program specifics can change, but during the 2003–04 winter, three tours were offered. The Snowshoe Ecology Tour, a gentle walk with lots of interpretation, is given daily for ages 7 and older. Guides introduce guests to the natural environment as well as the history of the resort. The weekly Peak to Peak Trek is a snowshoe excursion from the Dercum Mountain gondola over a back bowl to the Outpost on North Peak. It boasts fabulous views and provides a good workout. The monthly full-moon tour on

Snowshoeing

The Keystone Cross Country Center.

mostly level terrain around the perimeter of the Nordic center also includes a light dinner. It is suitable for ages 10 and older. Other custom guided tours can be arranged to such destinations as Peru Creek, Saints John, and Deer Creek. In addition, Keystone’s groomed trails adjoin marked, ungroomed backcountry trails in the Arapaho National Forest. Some of the trails are in the Snake River Valley, and others are high on the mountains and can be reached via enclosed gondola. Single-ride tickets are offered. For information about all programs and facilities, call the Keystone Cross Country Center, (970) 496-4275.

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Races Luna Chase Snowshoe Race. This annual

race, held on a late February evening, brings the Hawaiian spirit to the high mountains of Colorado and gives both recreational and serious competitors a shot at prizes. Aloha attire and headlamps are in great evidence on the Peak to Peak Trail on Dercum Mountain, followed by live entertainment. Event-day registration is from 5:00 to 6:30 P.M. at the Summit House. For information, call (970) 496-4065 or go to www.activeusa.com.

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Summit County Silverthorne Silverthorne is one of Summit County’s thriving bedroom communities, housing locals and resort workers. Exit 205 off Interstate 70, shared by Silverthorne and Dillon, is one of the state’s brassiest highway interchanges. This bright and busy intersection, which draws travelers with its hodgepodge of neon signs, strip malls, outlet stores, and fast-food eateries that stand out in brazen contrast to the surrounding mountains, is also a gateway to the nearby backcountry. Some trailheads are just at the outskirts of town, while others are off CO Hwy. 9, north of town.

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Trail 69 LILY PAD LAKE NORTHERN

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● Easy Distance • 1.6 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,720 feet Highest elevation • 9,920 feet Elevation difference • 200 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #108, Vail, Frisco, Dillon; USGS 7.5-Minute, Dillon, Frisco

This short, easy hike provides one of Colorado’s easiest access points to a true wilderness trail, in a sense exemplifying Summit County today, as it enables you to pass easily from Wildernest (a residential subdivision) to the wilderness (Eagles Nest Wilderness, that is). This trail skirts the southern portion of the Gore Range. Access is from the same Interstate 70 exit (Exit 205) that you use for Keystone. However, instead of driving east on U.S. 6, go the other way, briefly heading north on Hwy. 9,

and then turning left almost immediately onto Wildernest Rd. (a 7-Eleven is on the corner). Drive west and up the hill through the Wildernest development for 3.5 miles, then park in the cul-de-sac at the trailhead. The trail goes south and slightly southwest, beginning with a minor climb past a water tank. Just after passing the Adopt-A-Trail sign, you enter the Eagles Nest Wilderness and a stand of pine trees before flattening soon to wind through a frozen wetland of beaver ponds and small lakes, framed in a forest of aspen and lodgepoles. The route is wide and gentle as it descends through the trees with clearings here and there. After the Salt Lick Trail joins in from the left, the trail to Lily Pad Lake drops slightly into a mixed grove of aspens and conifers. One more little rise and you reach the first lake. The second is not far beyond. Return the way you came. If You Want a Longer Hike. You can also make a short car shuttle by leaving a second vehicle closer to Frisco. Take Exit 203 (Frisco and Breckenridge) and turn right (if you are coming from the east). Turn right again, then bear left, and cross a cattle guard to the plowed parking area near the Meadow Creek trailhead, which leads into Eagles Nest Wilderness. If you leave a vehicle here but start your hike as above, you would continue your hike past Lily Pad Lake, drop down to meet Meadow Creek, and follow it to the trailhead and the second vehicle. The one-way distance is 4.5 miles, and the elevation loss is about 600 feet from the lake. Obviously, you can do this shuttle hike in either direction, with a 600-foot elevation gain if you hike from Frisco to Silverthorne.

CENTRAL Summit County

■ Moderate Distance • 3.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None on most of the trail, except low to moderate in the upper meadow areas Starting elevation • 9,180 feet Highest elevation • 10,180 feet (Boss Mine) Elevation difference • 1,000 feet Snowmobiles • Yes, to wilderness boundary (2.5 miles from the trailhead) Dogs • Yes (must be leashed in wilderness) Maps • Trails Illustrated #107, Green Mountain Reservoir, Ute Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Willow Lakes

From Exit 205 off Interstate 70, take Hwy. 9 north for 7.3 miles to unpaved Rock Creek Rd. on your left, which is marked both as Summit County Road 1350 and with a sizable wooden sign for Pebble Creek Ranch. (If you reach the Blue River Campground on your right, you’ve gone just a few feet too far.) The plowed road quickly and steadily gains elevation above the Blue River Valley. A small parking area is on the left, about 1.4 miles from the highway turnoff; if that is full, there is often another plowed area 0.2 mile up the road. Begin snowshoeing southwest along North Rock Creek through a mixed forest of aspen and pine. The road passes some private property and then crosses the Arapaho National Forest boundary and the summer parking area and trailhead, about 1.7 miles from the start of the winter route. Go through a gate, pass the trail register, and continue hiking up the old Boss Mine Rd. Roughly 0.3 mile from the summer trailhead, you will pass a junction with the Gore Range Trail and then ascend to enter the Alfred M. Bailey Bird Nesting Sanctuary, a warm-weather mecca for local ornithologists and birders. After crossing a flat area of snowcovered beaver ponds and wetlands for about

0.6 mile, take the right fork. (The left leads to Keller Mountain, a shorter hike and an option on stormy days. However, the right does lead to more interesting remnants of Colorado’s mining history.) When you see the mounded tailings from the Boss, Josie, and Thunderbolt Mines, you are at the end of this route. Mine equipment, buildings, and fine views of Keller Mountain and the Gore Range cap this interesting hike. Return the way you came.

Snowshoeing

Trail 70 NORTH ROCK CREEK

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Breckenridge and Frisco Breckenridge is one of the most historic resort towns in Colorado. Old buildings and newer in-fills coexist nicely in this bustling resort community in the Blue River Valley. The lifts of one of Colorado’s largest ski areas, also named Breckenridge, stretch along four mountains, and the mountains and valleys between them offer great snowshoeing. For tourist information, contact the Breckenridge Resort Chamber, P.O. Box 1909, Breckenridge, CO 80424; (800) 221-1091 or (970) 453-2913; www.gobreck.com. GETTING THERE From Denver, take Interstate 70 west to Exit 203 (Frisco and Breckenridge). Turn left (south) onto Hwy. 9. Frisco is just west of Hwy. 9, and Breckenridge is 9 miles down the road. The driving distance from Denver is 85 miles. For Boreas Pass, continue south of town on Hwy. 9. From Colorado Springs, take U.S. Hwy. 24 west into South Park. At Har tsel, bear right (northwest) on Hwy. 9, which briefly joins U.S. Hwy. 285 before turning left (northwest/north) at Fairplay, climbing over Hoosier Pass and dropping 10 miles down into Breckenridge and an additional 9 miles to Frisco. The driving distance from Colorado Springs is 125 miles.

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Summit County Trail 71 PEAKS TRAIL ■ ◆ Moderate aerobically but challenging because of the distance Distance • 8.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 10,020 feet Highest elevation • 10,240 feet Lowest elevation • 9,100 feet Elevation difference • 1,140 feet, with many ascents and descents Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #109, Breckenridge, Tennessee Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Breckenridge

The Tenmile Range stretches along the west side of the Blue River between Frisco and Breckenridge. The three southernmost mountains—Peaks 8, 9, and 10—comprise Breckenridge’s lift-served ski area. Peaks 0–7 are backcountry, and the Peaks Trail skirts the east side of these mountains. The two ends are accessible by free Summit Stage buses, so instead of the traditional car shuttle, you could do the hike as a bus shuttle. Still, on snowshoes, 8.5 miles is an extremely long hike, so you may wish to do just a couple of miles from the south end (i.e., Breckenridge end) of the trail and return the way you came. The trail is marked with blue diamonds, is well used by skiers, and is fairly easy to follow—but heavy skier use also means that snowshoers should be respectful of ski tracks and also conscious of skiers descending fast on the downhills.

The trail can be done in either direction (see below), but the more popular option is to begin from the southern end of the Peaks Trail at the base of the Breckenridge Ski Area’s Peak 8. To reach the trailhead, drive up Ski Hill Rd. to Peak 8, passing the day-skiers’ parking lots, and continue about 0.5 mile to a plowed area on the left side of the road to the Peaks Trail trailhead sign. Begin your northbound hike through a deep forest, where the ski tracks and the blue diamonds are real navigational aids. The route crosses several creeks—Cucumber, South Barton, Middle Barton, and North Barton— with steep little drops and climbs. There are also a number of small clearings purposely cut by the Forest Service for wildlife habitat and also to make room for some smaller, younger trees to grow in the middle of the older, bigger ones. The final descent to the trailhead at the south end of Frisco is a long, steep section, which can get very hard-packed, causing problems for some skiers, who in turn could cause problems for anyone else on the trail. Even snowshoers, by this time, are generally bonetired. It is also possible to start the hike on the Frisco (north) end, but it involves a big climb right at the beginning, and few people do it that way. However, if you’re a glutton for punishment and that’s your choice, you’ll find the trailhead by driving south on CO 9 to Summit County Road 1004 and a right turn to the Miner’s Creek Rd. parking area on the right, just before the road crosses Tenmile Creek. Cross the footbridge and walk east on the bike path to its intersection with the Peaks Trail at Second St. There are two switchbacks on the southbound climb, after which the trail is rather straightforward.

CENTRAL Summit County Nordic Centers

Breckenridge Ski Area. Snowshoeing is

Breckenridge and Frisco Nordic Centers. These two cross-country centers,

permitted on the mountain, and the morning ritual for many locals involves snowshoeing uphill before skiers and snowboarders start boarding the lifts. In fact, it’s not unusual to see people snowshoeing around on inbounds terrain at all hours of the day, and as long as they’re not poaching the terrain park, ski area officials seem to be okay with it. In fact, Breckenridge sells a single-ride pedestrian ticket that can be used on either the Quicksilver, Beaver Run, Colorado, or Rocky Mountain chairs by those who want to snowshoe high on the mountain. The Burro Trail, which can be accessed from both the Beaver Run and Village base areas, is a Forest Service trail that basically follows the lower boundary of the ski area and meanders its way along a drainage through nice old-growth woods for several miles traversing gently uphill from the base of Peak 9 to the bottom of the Cimarron trail on Peak 10. You can connect from it to other trails if you know where you’re going, but it’s easiest and best to use as an out-and-back. Look for the trailhead sign at the woodline at the top of the Camelback platter lift, which can be found in the lower left-hand corner of a ski area trail map. No lift ticket is needed, and use of this trail is free.

only a few miles apart, have some things in common and some aspects that provide very different experiences. The same family operates them, but they offer very different atmospheres and different degrees of snowshoeing. Both charge a trail fee and stock retail and rental equipment. Both centers are along the free Summit Stage shuttle route, so no matter where you are in the county’s resort belt, you can easily get to either. Many of the backcountry routes around Breckenridge and elsewhere in Summit County that include avalanche areas, so in periods of reported potential danger, or if you are unsure of the tricky outback, it is good to snowshoe in a controlled environment. Snowshoeing is a major activity at the Frisco Nordic Center, located just off Hwy. 9, 1 mile south of Frisco and 9 miles north of Breckenridge. It offers 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) of dedicated snowshoeing trails, in addition to the 43 kilometers (about 24.5 miles) of groomed cross-country trails. Trails for beginners start

Narrow snowshoeing trails snake through the forest at the Frisco Nordic Center, where the sense of solitude and tranquility are palpable. Tranquility and solitude give way to high action when this busy Nordic center hosts the annual Governor’s Cup races. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Snowshoeing

Alpine Ski Resort

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Summit County on a flat course, and they vary in difficulty all the way up to the most competitive snowshoe running trails in the state. Late in the season, when the snow begins to soften and it is difficult to keep exposed tracks groomed up to serious Nordies’ standards, the Frisco center switches some of the cross-country trails over to snowshoeing. The rolling terrain is known for its great views of Lake Dillon, the northern tip of the Tenmile Range, Mount Royal, and Wichita Mountain. The center also puts on nearly twenty special events each year, including races, breast-cancer fundraisers, tours, and equipment demos for Nordic skiing as well as snowshoeing. Frisco Nordic Center, P.O. Box 519, Frisco, CO 80443; (970) 668-0866; www.colorado-xc.org/frisco-nordic-center.htm. The Breckenridge Nordic Ski Center, located in Cucumber Gulch on the lower section of Peak 8 below the base of the Alpine area, features flat, single-track nature trails for beginning snowshoers and families. The Breckenridge Nordic Center also accesses Forest Service trails on the lower reaches of Peak 7 Forest Service for a total 15 kilometers of snowshoe trails at this writing, with more trails for snowshoeing projected for future years. The center offers Snow Wonder guided tours (see “Guided Tours” below), and its 35 kilometers (about 23 miles) of cross-country trails are always off-limits to snowshoers to preserve the integrity of the groomed trail surface for classical skiing and skating. However, for switch-hitters, rental snowshoes may be exchanged for ski rentals for no extra charge any day. Breckenridge Nordic Center, 1200 Ski Hill Rd., Breckenridge, CO 80424; (970) 4536855; www.colorado-xc.org/breckenridgenordic-center.htm.

Gold Run Nordic Center Summit County’s newest Nordic center for snowshoers as well as cross-country skiers is located at the Breckenridge Municipal Golf Course, just 3 miles north of town. It offers more than 20 kilometers of groomed trails, plus access to a network of backcountry touring and snowshoe trails in an area known as the Golden Horseshoe straddling the Swan River Valley and French Gulch, which is rich in mining history. During winter the golf clubhouse is turned into a full retail and rental shop. Backcountry tours are also available. For information, call (970) 547-7889. Races Swift Skedaddle. The Swift Skedaddle is an all-snowshoeing event held twice during the winter, first in early to mid-January at the Raven Golf Club in Silverthorne and then in late February or early March at Frisco. Each event consists of a 3-kilometer recreational run or walk and a 10-kilometer run. The organizer is local ultrasports athlete Danelle Ballangee. Race details and registration are available from Swift Skedaddle Snowshoe, P.O. Box 1590, Dillon, CO 80435; (970) 389-4838. Governor’s Cup. The Frisco Nordic Center

is the site of the prestigious annual Colorado Governor’s Cup, a long-running cross-country ski race that now has a 5-kilometer snowshoeing component. It takes place in early January. For information or registration materials, contact the Town of Frisco, P.O. Box 4100, Frisco, CO 80443; (800) 424-1554; www.coloradofitness.org.

CENTRAL Summit County Guided Tours

fundraiser, held on a Saturday in March, combines fun-filled golf and optional snowshoeing on a 9-hole course set up in Breckenridge’s Carter Park. Contestants whack at tennis balls with the “club” of their choice, which has included golf clubs, tennis racquets, lacrosse sticks, and hockey sticks. For information, contact the Little Red School House at (970) 453-6871.

Breckenridge Nordic Center. The Breck-

The Susan G. Kommen Breast Cancer Fundraiser. This is one of several Colorado

fundraisers for this worthwhile organization that made “fight for a cure” a well-understood phrase. It takes place at the Frisco Nordic Center in early March and attracts nearly 1,000 snowshoers for low-key fun snowshoe racing and walking events. For information, contact the Frisco Nordic Center (see phone number above).

enridge Nordic Center (see above) organizes three-hour interpretive Snow Wonder tours that leave the center daily except Saturday (Saturday is available by advance reservation). For more information, call (970) 453-6855. Summit Activities Center. The Summit

Activities Center, a division of a travel company called Platinum Holidays, operates as a clearinghouse for a variety of outdoor activities in Summit County, including guided excursions for all levels of snowshoer—from first-timers looking for reassurance and tips to experts seeking multiday custom tours. All tours include guide service, transportation, equipment rentals, snacks, and beverages. Lunch is provided on full-day programs. Information and reservations are available at (888) 230-2844, (970) 547-1594, or www.summitactivities.com.

Imperial Challenge. Not strictly a snow-

shoe race but a great multisport event, the Imperial Challenge takes place every April at the ski area. Competitors start in downtown Breckenridge and ride their bikes to the Peak 8 base, where they may stash their other sports gear for an ascent and descent of the mountain. Expert category competitors then race on snowshoes or Nordic skis to the top of Imperial Bowl, at 12,998 feet, from which they ski or snowboard back to the base—fast. Citizen category racers “only” ascend to 12,141 feet. There are also team competitions on both the long and short courses. For details or registration forms, call (970) 453-5000, or contact Great Adventure Sports, (970) 453-0333 or www.greatadventuresports.com.

Snowshoeing

Snowshoe Golf Tournament. This local

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began in 2002 as a partnership between BOEC and the Town of Breckenridge. Naturalist-guide Peg Alig has created a summer and winter activities schedule covering a variety of topics and suitable for various age ranges, with mellow hikes and mini-festivals offered on busy weekends. Snowshoeing at the Breckenridge Nordic Center and elsewhere is part of the program. At this writing, a regular snowshoeing schedule has not been set, though the expectation is that there will be one with sufficient demand. Currently, tours are fairly mild and take 1 to 2 hours. Rather than a firm fee, the BOEC established a suggested fee of $6 per person or $20 per family in 2004. You can bring your own snowshoes or used equipment provided by the BOEC. Advance registration is recommended at 970-453-6422, Ext. 19, or [email protected].

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Summit County Trail 72 SALLY BARBER MINE ● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 1.3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,330 feet Highest elevation • 10,680 feet Elevation difference • 350 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #109, Breckenridge, Tennessee Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Boreas Pass, Breckenridge; Trails Illustrated Cross Country Skier’s Map #401, Frisco-Breckenridge (out of print, but useful if you can find it)

A short, yet appealing trail, a whimsical name, an interesting and historic destination—and the bonus of a route that is especially beguiling on a clear, full-moon night. From Interstate 70 at Frisco, drive 9.5 miles south on Hwy. 9 and turn left (east) onto Wellington Rd. on the north end of downtown. This town road goes past an older residential neighborhood and feeds into French Gulch Rd. (Summit County Road 2) and then past a new residential neighborhood set amid remnants of Breckenridge’s mining history. As you drive up French Gulch Rd., you will see tailings from underground mines and dredge piles left over from the “mechanical mines” that churned up local creeks in search of gold. The small plowed parking area is 3.9 miles from Hwy. 9.

Begin snowshoeing up French Gulch Rd., and after a few hundred feet, take a sharp right onto Summit County Road 440. The route quickly makes a hairpin turn to double back on itself and heads to the southwest. Drop slightly into a creek drainage and follow the road through a lodgepole forest. As you gradually climb along the side of the hill toward the mine, you will be able to catch occasional glimpses of Breckenridge’s ski trails through the trees and across the Blue River Valley. The hike ends on a promontory upon which perches the tall head frame of the Sally Barber Mine, a zinc producer in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. A historic plaque tells the story. If You Want a Longer Hike. You can do a car shuttle hike by coupling this stretch with another longer accessed from Boreas Pass Rd. (For directions, see Forest Service Road 75, below.) To reach that trailhead, south of the mine, take the Boreas Pass Rd. for 2.1 miles to Mt. Baldy Rd. (Summit County Road 520), turn left, and continue 0.9 miles to the Sally Barber Rd. It is 1.5 miles to the Sally Barber Mine. Numerous old mining roads lace this area, so take a map. You can also double this total distance by doing an out-and-back hike from either end.

CENTRAL Summit County

■ Moderate Distance • 1.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 10,300 feet Highest elevation • 10,848 feet Elevation difference • 548 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #109, Breckenridge, Tennessee Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Boreas Pass, Breckenridge; Trails Illustrated Cross Country Skier’s Map #401, Frisco-Breckenridge (out of print, but useful if you can find it)

Drive south on CO 9 from Breckenridge, 5 miles from the southern end of town, and pull into a plowed parking area on the right, directly across from the large Skier’s Edge sign. You might have to climb over a snow bank on the north side of the parking lot to reach an old roadbed just ahead. The road was built up above the surrounding wetlands, which in winter are frozen and blanketed with snow, before approaching the gulch itself. The trail soon enters the valley and is etched onto the north side of the creek. It flows aggressively in summer to join the Blue River. So active a creek and so sheltered a valley equates into big, beautiful trees, a characteristic of this lush environment.

At about 0.7 mile, depending on use since the last big snowfall, you might see what appears to be a fork in the trail. If there are two sets of tracks, follow those to the right to stay above the creek. The route goes west, looking as if it will disappear into a narrow slot between soaring rock walls—Quandary Peak to the south (left) and the east ridge of Pacific Peak to the north (right). The former is a commanding fourteener; the latter is just 50 feet short of being one. Your next landmark is a fallen-in cabin about 1 mile from the trailhead. At 1.5 miles, the trail meets the unplowed McCullough Gulch Rd. (Summit County Road 851) coming in from the left, the summer parking area and trailhead for McCullough Gulch, as well as a junction with the Wheeler National Recreation Trail to the right. You can either turn around here and retrace your steps, or, if you have organized a car shuttle, take a left for a descent down the road toward the creek and continue on the McCullough Gulch Rd.

Snowshoeing

Trail 73 McCULLOUGH GULCH TRAIL

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Summit County Trail 74 McCULLOUGH GULCH RD. ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 2.8 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Moderate; trail crosses some run-out zones Starting elevation • 10,830 feet Highest elevation • 11,360 feet Elevation difference • 530 feet, plus 112 feet of loss that must be regained Snowmobiles • Yes, but may be prohibited in the future Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #109, Breckenridge, Tennessee Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Boreas Pass, Breckenridge; Trails Illustrated Cross Country Skier’s Map #401, Frisco-Breckenridge (out of print, but useful if you can find it)

This is another route whose elevation makes it more challenging than its length, steepness, or elevation gain would provide. From Breckenridge, drive 5.5 miles south to Blue Lakes Rd. (Summit County Road 850). Turn right (northwest) and continue a short distance to the winter trailhead at the junction with McCullough Gulch Rd. (County Road 851) on the right. Begin snowshoeing north along the unplowed road, which circles gently around the eastern side of Quandary Peak and then begins climbing up along the high side of the Blue River Valley. Here’s where you’ll notice that the route’s difficulty comes from its elevation rather than steady steepness. It bends to the left (west) and crosses a log bridge.

At about 1.7 miles your route intersects with another road coming in from the north and a summer trail to the Quandary Peak summit angling back sharply to the left. Continue straight through this junction, passing old mine tailings, which in winter are usually snow-covered. After you reach the junction with the McCullough Gulch Trail and the summer trailhead that bores into the right valley. In summer, hikers continue beyond a gate that separates the road from the narrower trail that continues westward into the increasingly narrow McCullough Gulch, but with snows hanging on the steep mountainsides above, this is not a good idea in winter. Still, without venturing into the deep valley, be sure to look west for breathtaking views of Quandary Peak on the left (south) and Pacific Peak on the right (north). Return by the same route, or make it a car shuttle loop with the McCullough Gulch Trail (previous page).

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● Easy Distance • 1 mile (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 11,560 feet Highest elevation • 11,600 feet Elevation difference • 40 feet, but some ascents and descents Snowmobiles • Yes, but may be prohibited in the future Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #109, Breckenridge, Tennessee Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Alma; Trails Illustrated Cross Country Skier’s Map #401, Frisco-Breckenridge (out of print, but useful if you can find it)

The Bemrose Mine, just below Hoosier Pass, lent its name to this network of ski routes in a high valley, which can be connected in mixand-match fashion. The high-elevation road skiers use to access the backcountry terrain that comprises the so-called ski circus makes for an unusual snowshoeing route, and even though snowshoeing’s recent growth has been explosive, you might still be something of a curiosity in this unique little backcountry ski area. There is hardly any elevation difference between the highest and lowest points, but the route does undulate, and at such high elevations, right at and above treeline, every small uphill is magnified. Snowmobiles are permitted to use the road, but few do. There are two parking areas and two trailheads, making for an easy shuttle hike. A small parking area is located on Summit County Road 670, 9 miles south of Breckenridge, and a larger one tops the Hoosier Pass summit, 2 miles farther to the south.

From the upper parking area on the right side of CO Hwy. 9, cross the road, climb a small embankment, and begin hiking north and then northeast along a water diversion ditch. This route adjoins private land for about 0.25 mile but is marked with blue diamonds and is easy to follow. Continue for about 1 mile to the first of several open areas and drainages toward Bemrose Creek. Watch telemarkers drop down, making graceful turns. The route ends at Bemrose Creek. Return the way you came, or make it a shuttle hike by exiting at the lower trailhead. If You Want a Longer Hike. Continue 1.3 miles to Bemrose Center or snowshoe between the trailhead above and the Hoosier Pass summit (see below) on a 4.8-mile horseshoe-shaped route, which can be done as an out-and-back hike or with a car shuttle.

Snowshoeing

Trail 75 BEMROSE SKI CIRCUS RD.

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Summit County Trail 76 BOREAS PASS RD. ■ ◆ Moderate to Baker’s Tank; challenging to Boreas Pass Distance • 3.1 miles (one way) to Baker’s Tank; 6.4 miles (one way) to Boreas Pass Avalanche hazard • Low on the lower section; moderate to high in some places at higher elevations Starting elevation • 10,340 feet Highest elevation • 10,860 feet (at Baker’s Tank); 11,481 feet (at Boreas Pass) Elevation difference • 520 feet (Baker’s Tank); 1,141 feet (Boreas Pass) Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #109, Breckenridge, Tennessee Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Breckenridge, Boreas Pass

The Boreas Pass Rd. (Summit County Road 10) follows an old wagon road turned railbed. The Denver, South Park, and Pacific Railroad, once Breckenridge’s lifeline, traveled this route between Como and Breckenridge. The grade is fairly gentle and reassuringly steady, but several caveats apply: For those who go to the top of Boreas Pass, it is a long hike and therefore a challenging one. It is popular with skiers who trudge up for the reward of zipping down. It is also a good snowshoeing route, but you need to be mindful of skiers coming down behind you on the descent. Because snowmobiles are permitted, the snow is almost always packed. One final and important drawback is that in the upper sections, it crosses several avalanche run-outs, and because it tops out at a high elevation, these upper reaches should only be attempted in good weather and during low avalanche danger. Having said all that, it is one of

Breckenridge’s signature routes. Nibbling at the beginning of the Boreas Pass Trail gives you been-there, done-that rights; making it to Baker’s Tank and back is a good, solid itinerary for most recreational snowshoers; doing the whole thing is excellent conditioning for anyone using snowshoeing as a fitness tool. Follow Hwy. 9 south from Breckenridge. Turn left onto the Boreas Pass Rd. (Summit County Road 10) station and drive up to the parking area at the end of the plowed section, about 3.5 miles from the highway. The route passes through beautiful forests of mixed conifers and aspens in the lower sections and conifers only higher up. It also passes exposed road cuts, showing people’s determination to conquer nature by creating a passable route through this challenging terrain. Views of the Blue River Valley and parts of the Tenmile Range greet you from many places along the route, and if you do make it high enough for the trees to be more widely spaced, these views only get better. From the winter trailhead, the route heads to the southeast, but it contains numerous bends that make for changes in scenery, snow conditions, and wind, especially in the exposed upper sections. You will reach Rocky Point about 0.4 mile from the trailhead, where the entire range is on display. Continue another 2.7 miles to Baker’s Tank, where steam locomotives, especially designed for the tight curves and steady grades on this line, took on water. The goal of reaching this historic spot, restored to its original appearance, at 10,860 feet is a reasonable one for many snowshoers, and is a good spot to turn around if you are not up for a longer tour or if the weather is dicey. Again, remember that while the lower

CENTRAL Summit County

section of the road is flanked by trees, the upper sections are more exposed. The 11,481foot top of Boreas Pass lies on the Continental Divide, 3.3 miles ahead, which amounts to a formidable elevation gain and distance for most snowshoers. Still, on a low-wind, lowhazard day, the upper section, which in many spots was blasted out of rock, offers fabulous mountain panoramas and views across to the trails of the Breckenridge Ski Area. Whichever option you choose, return the way you came.

Copper Mountain Of all of Colorado’s resorts, none has changed as much as Copper Mountain, which has undergone something on the order of $400 million in village and mountain improvements since resort operator Intrawest purchased it in 1998–1999. This compact ski resort, just off Interstate 70 on the east side of Vail Pass, still hangs out the welcome mat for snowshoers. In addition to trails and programs on its own turf, an abundance of winter trails lie at the eastern approach to Vail Pass. For tourist information, contact Copper Mountain, 509 Copper Mountain Rd., Copper Mountain, CO 80443; (800) 458-8386 or (970) 968-2882; www. coppercolorado.com.

◆ Challenging Distance • 2.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,760 feet Highest elevation • 11,060 feet Elevation difference • 1,300 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #108, Vail, Frisco, Dillon (trailhead is on Trails Illustrated #109, Breckenridge, Tennessee Pass); USGS 7.5-Minute, Vail Pass

Snowshoeing

Trail 77 WHEELER LAKES TRAIL

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This is a fairly short but otherwise difficult trail in virtually all respects. It requires both strength and stamina and is challenging to follow, especially during or after a snowstorm, because trail marking is sparse and deep snow deposition areas mean that previous users’ tracks are often covered—and even your own can be filled in quickly in a storm. It also racks up a significant elevation gain in a relatively short distance, so strong, well-conditioned athletes like to use this as a training trail. In fact, about the only easy thing about the Wheeler Lakes Trail is getting there. The trailhead is located at Interstate 70’s Exit 195 (Copper Mountain–Leadville), just at the westbound offramp. Winter parking is across the freeway overpass beyond the gas station near the eastbound on-ramp. The winter route roughly parallels the summer trail, but it is indefinite and not spectacularly marked. It climbs first to the west then, after 0.5 mile at about 10,000 feet, crosses the Eagles Nest Wilderness boundary and turns in a northwesterly direction, quite steeply in the beginning and gently as it approaches the 11,000-foot level. The vegetation changes as do the trail’s orientation and elevation. Abundant aspens near the trailhead give way to conifers as the route climbs.

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Summit County Intermittent clearings offer views across the valley toward the Copper Mountain base, but later on in the hike, the mountain scenery becomes more pristine. At that point, the traffic sounds of Interstate 70 have diminished, replaced by the sound of the wind riffling through the trees. About 0.5 mile into the hike views take over of the Tenmile Range to the east and Vail Pass to the west. If you have the stamina and interest to find the frozen lakes, and if the weather cooperates, your signal that you are approaching them is a sign marking the junction with the Gore Range Trail to the left and a cairn that may or may not be visible under the snow. The trail itself passes between a pair of lakes nestled in a flat mountain valley surrounded by trees. For many snowshoers, doing just part—even a short part—of this challenging route suffices, but no matter how far you get, retrace your tracks to the trailhead.

Copper Mountain Resort Snowshoers are permitted on all Alpine ski trails but must stay on skiers’ right when both climbing and descending and are cautioned to stay alert for snowriders at all times. Additionally, 21 kilometers (about 13 miles) of beautiful, wooded unmaintained and unpatrolled Nordic trails in the valley trails at Union Creek are available for snowshoeing. Groomed trails are on the east end of the resort on the golf course. No day pass is necessary for snowshoeing except those using a ski lift to access trails or backcountry routes. Winter trails on Vail Pass (see page 156) just up the hill from Copper Mountain can be reached via the ungroomed bike path that runs through Copper Village west to Vail Pass. Ask for the “Cross Country Trail Map” at the resort’s guest services. The map identifies trails for differing abilities from beginner to expert. For further information, call (970) 968-2318, Ext. 4INFO. Race Copper Mountain’s Snowman Triathlon. First held in 1990, this competi-

tion features citizen, masters, and seniors categories, combining 5 kilometers each of cross-country skiing, on-snow mountain biking, and snowshoeing, and elite and team categories, with 10 kilometers in each of these events. There is also a 5-kilometer snowshoe race called the Snowman Stomp, held the same day. The events take place around the first weekend in March. For information or registration forms, call (800) 458-8386, Ext. 57827, or (970) 968-2318.

CENTRAL Summit County

■ Moderate Distance • 2.4 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low in the lower gulch; moderate above treeline, especially near the sides of the valley Starting elevation • 10,940 feet Highest elevation • 11,520 feet Elevation difference • 580 feet Snowmobiles • Yes, but may be prohibited in the future Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #108, Vail, Frisco, Dillon; USGS 7.5-Minute, Copper Mountain

The scenic beauty and easy access directly off a major highway put this route in the pantheon of top Summit County snowshoe hikes. In fact, it is just barely within the county and is close to the Lake County line. Take Interstate 70 to Copper Mountain (Exit 195). Drive south on CO Hwy. 91 for 5.3 miles, where you will find a good-sized, plowed but unmarked parking lot on your left. Start snowshoeing up the old mining road that parallels Mayflower Creek and climbs east/southeast toward Tucker Mountain. It

passes through private property, so be sure to stay on the road. Bear right at a fork just a few hundred yards from the trailhead and chug up the route’s steepest section, but from then on, stay on the route along the left side of the valley. A mine shaft on your right signifies the 1-mile point from the start of the hike. Because of the elevation, it can be a hard pull, but you will be rewarded for the effort by your descent into a grandiose basin, about 2 miles from the trailhead. The head of the valley is also called Mayflower Amphitheater, a name that says it all, for it puts on a great and long-running show starring Mayflower Hill, Fletcher Mountain, Jacque Peak, and other compelling mountains. The broad basin also holds some remnants of the Old Boston Mine and ancient cabins of the Boston townsite that you can explore. You can speculate about the Massachusetts connection implied by the name of the gulch and the name of the mine. While the gentle valley floor is considered to be safe, there is some avalanche hazard below the steeper slopes on the sides, as well as beyond the ghost town’s highest cabin. Return by the same route.

Snowshoeing

Trail 78 MAYFLOWER GULCH

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CENTRAL The Vail Valley

What started as a small ski development along Gore Creek in 1962 has grown into the largest ski resort in the United States—and one of the giants in the skiing world. Now promotionally called the Vail Valley, it is a long strip of resorts and nonresort towns stretching along Interstate 70, from the western side of Vail Pass all the way to the county seat at Eagle. Vail spawned a second complete ski resort, luxurious Beaver Creek, and also caused Avon to explode from a small crossroads at the head of the Eagle River Valley into a sizable development. Nowadays, golf rivals skiing as a recreational draw. As it already gobbled up old Avon, Greater Vail is also swallowing up the old railroad town of Minturn, plus ranch land as far west as Wolcott, which is quickly being developed into golf courses and golf communities. Each town has its own personality—these days created by designers, architects, and resort conceptualizers—but much of it is very well thought out and well done. Even with all the development, luxury, and obvious big money, Vail and Beaver Creek are at the doorstep to fabulous year-round backcountry recreation, enjoyed equally by locals and visitors. But you have to be somewhat choosey in selecting routes. Many of the summer hiking trails on the north side of the valley are simply too steep and slide-prone to be reasonable snowshoeing routes. Other trails around Vail face south and are vulnerable to snowmelt. Some of the best routes are at the top of Vail Pass, while others are sprinkled around the fringes of the valley. For a new online recreational map resource, launched in 2004 with state-of-the-art graphics and interactive features, go to www.ecosports.com. Vail Pass, the eastern gateway into the Vail Valley, is a leading backcountry area for winter recreationists, but it does get crowded, especially on weekends. Other trails on the vast tracts of public land that surround Vail, including the nearby Holy Cross and Eagles Nest Wilderness areas, are often remote, inaccessible in winter or susceptible to avalanches. Many Vail Valley guests who want to go off-campus sign on for guided snowshoe tours for more congenial backcountry terrain and a knowledgeable leader to follow. Vail and Beaver Creek attract a moneyed crowd, and many of the resorts’ guests are discovering snowshoeing and are willing to pay in order to play at it. GETTING THERE Vail is 110 miles west

of Denver, directly off Interstate 70 (Exits 180, 176, and 173). Mintur n is on U.S. Hwy. 24, 2 miles south of Interstate 70 at Exit 171. Avon and Beaver Creek are just off Interstate 70 at Exit 167.

Cranking uphill at Vail. (Photo by David Nagel, courtesy of Vail Resorts)

Snowshoeing

VAIL IS AN ISLAND OF LUXUR Y in the middle of a wild, mountainous sea.

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The Vail Valley Vail The town of Vail is a dream ski village with Vail, the namesake ski area, stretching for miles above it. With 5,500 skiable acres, the ski area takes up so much space that there is no backcountry access and few getaway spots of any kind on the south side of Gore Creek. However, there are myriad snowshoeing opportunities on the mountain. In fact, Vail is Colorado’s capital of resort-based snowshoeing. It has developed the state’s biggest and best on-mountain snowshoeing trail systems, with 28 miles of designated snowshoe trails at Vail and Beaver Creek. At one point, the resort even issued a separate snowshoeing trail map, the first in Colorado. Guided tours of all sorts abound. These are user-friendly and safe ways of snowshoeing, not a trivial issue in an area where backcountry access is dicey. Snowshoers are also permitted on all the ski trails, but the designated snowshoeing routes are better for most people than random wanderings around a huge ski mountain. For tourist information, contact the Vail Valley Tourism Bureau, 100 East Meadow Dr., Ste. 34, Vail, CO 81657; (970) 476-1000; www.visitvailvalley.com. Vail Pass The Vail Pass Winter Recreation Area is virtually a drive-in winter sports venue, whose main access is from a huge plowed parking area directly off Interstate 70 atop 10,666-foot Vail Pass. In fact, it has its own interchange, Exit 190, which puts it just 10 miles east of Vail. As one of Colorado’s finest, most accessible, most popular, and most crowded areas for all manner of winter activities, it sees heavy winter use. Therefore, the Forest Service has segregated motorized and non-motorized recreationists on many of the trails. There are now eleven marked snowshoeing and cross-country ski trails ranging from 2 to 7.25 miles, and ten designated snowmobile trails, including a few stretches of mixed use. Vail Pass also accesses

three backcountry huts. The cross-country/ snowshoe trails are marked with blue diamonds on trees and blue bamboo poles stuck in the snow, the snowmobile routes with orange diamonds on trees and orange poles. The Forest Service tries to monitor snowmobile infractions on non-motorized trails, but an occasional irresponsible or novice snowmobiler does stray. The vast area encompasses a huge chunk of the White River National Forest and a small parcel of the adjacent Arapaho National Forest. Copper Mountain adjoins it on the southeast and Vail on the northwest, and the small town of Red Cliff nestles in a deep valley just west of the recreation area. In order to encourage backcountry enthusiasts to try less busy sites and to fund facilities and maintenance, Congress authorized the Forest Service to establish a fee system—currently $5 per adult (under 14, free). Part of the fee funds the year-round visitor information center (with heated restrooms), a large paved and plowed parking area, and personnel to manage such a sprawling high-country recreation area. A portion of the fee pays for a useful Vail Pass Winter Recreation Area map. Be sure to get one at the entrance station. The Vail Pass elevation is both a curse and a blessing. It is one of the first places to get reliable snow in the late fall, and it often holds snow well into spring. When storms move through, however, the high elevation and vast, open terrain can translate to poor visibility and howling winds, but on classic blue-sky, sunkissed Colorado days, Vail Pass shines. In addition to snowshoeing the well-marked trails, most of which are far longer than the Shrine Pass Trail, pack a map and compass and play around virtually anywhere. You can explore the deep woods, find a secret spot and build a snow cave, glissade down powder slopes, or use your snowshoes to get up and your snowboard to ride down. It is purely and simply a fantastic recreational treasure.

CENTRAL The Vail Valley

■ Moderate Distance • 2.8 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,600 feet Highest elevation • 11,020 feet Elevation difference • 420 feet Snowmobiles • Not on the ski trail but permitted on parallel routes above and below Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #108, Vail, Frisco, Dillon; USGS 7.5-Minute, Vail Pass; USFS Vail Pass handout map; Eagle Eye/Trails Illustrated Maps CrossCountry Skier’s Map, Vail-Leadville (out of print)

This is one of the main thoroughfares atop Vail Pass. En route to the trio of cabins comprising Shrine Mountain Inn, arguably Colorado’s most comfortable and luxurious backcountry lodgings and one of its easiest to access, the trail passes through some of the most classic Vail Pass terrain—huge open bowls, gullies, deep forest areas, and stands of widely spaced trees. Snowshoers and skiers move along the Shrine Mountain Ski Trail to or from the huts or simply to reach the pass, while snowmobiles whiz alongside on the parallel Shrine Pass Rd. (Forest Service Road 228), which continues all the way down to Red Cliff. As an ideal out-and-back snowshoe hike, this straightforward, well-marked, and welltraveled route begins with a bit of a climb— with a switchback thrown in—out of the parking area, weaving among spruces and

willows. After a sharp bend to the right (north), the trail contours along the east side of steady ridge above West Tenmile Creek for 2.5 miles. It follows the edge of the trees, which offers some definition in flat light. This is not trivial, for when you look down into the West Tenmile Creek drainage to your left (west), it can be difficult to tell whether the bottom of the valley is a little below you or far away, especially given the expansiveness of the area. Only when snowmobiles are traveling on the Shrine Bowl Trail below does the sense of proportion and scale sharpen up. At about 2.25 miles the Shrine Mountain Ski Trail crosses the upper part of the Shrine Bowl Snowmobile Trail and continues another 0.25 mile across a gentle open slope. At the top of this open area is a small trail leading to the Shine Mountain Inn, guarded by a grove of signs. You might see one marking the summer trailhead for Shrine Ridge—or it might be hidden, buried in the snow. You will certainly see a weathered wooden sign that reads, “The TMTA huts are reserved by people who seek the peace and solitude of the back country. Please respect their privacy.” To underscore that directive, three red-and-white pictograph signs are posted, indicating that snowmobiles are prohibited. If you want to see what lies 0.25 mile farther down that trail, plan an overnight at one of the Shrine Mountain Inn cabins. You can make reservations through the 10th Mountain Division Hut Association, 1280 Ute Ave., Ste. 21, Aspen, CO 81611; (970) 925-5775; or go to www.huts.org for more information.

Snowshoeing

Trail 79 SHRINE PASS SKI TRAIL

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The Vail Valley Trail 80 CORRAL CREEK ■ Moderate Distance • 5 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • Low to moderate Starting elevation • 10,459 feet Highest elevation • 11,000 feet Lowest elevation • 10,269 feet Elevation difference • 731 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #108, Vail, Frisco, Dillon; USGS 7.5-Minute, Vail Pass

From the main parking area for Vail Pass, cross the overpass across Interstate 70 to the marked trailheads at the westbound truck parking area on the other (east) side of the service road. Begin your hike with a short climb up a ridge between the highway and the creek. Head northeast around the ridge, which tops out at nearly 11,000 feet, and begin snowshoeing down the other side, following the

Corral Creek drainage and heading back to the south, toward Copper Mountain for about 1 mile. This trail feels as if a secret garden is tucked into a forested valley with the multilane highway on one side and the compelling quiet of the Eagles Nest Wilderness on the other. When the creek meets the interstate, make a U-turn and begin ascending back toward the parking area on the summer bike path, actually an old road that parallels the modern highway. In addition to its attractiveness for snowshoeing and ski-touring, this area is favored by telemarkers who want to avoid the Vail Pass crowds. The open slope on the east side of Corral Creek can release in times of avalanche danger, but the old road close to Interstate 70 is generally a safety zone.

The Vail Valley’s athletic snowshoers run along high ridges and across snowy meadows with great views. (Photo by Jack Affleck, courtesy of Vail Resorts)

CENTRAL The Vail Valley

■ Moderate Distance • 3.5 miles Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,900 feet Highest elevation • 9,680 feet Elevation difference • 780 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #108, Vail, Frisco, Dillon; USGS 7.5-Minute, Vail East, Vail Pass

Difficult as it is to imagine, with a four-lane highway now crossing the Colorado Rockies, there was life and travel in Colorado before Interstate 70. After the interstate was built, the portion of the narrow, winding U.S. Hwy. 6 that previously carried all traffic over Vail Pass was turned into a recreational route, popular with cyclists in summer and suitable for snowshoeing and ski touring in winter. Snowmobiles are permitted, but few use it. To reach the trailhead from Interstate 70’s Vail East Exit 180, go south of the interstate and turn left onto Bighorn Rd. Follow it 1.9 miles to the winter road closure at the Gore Creek Campground. (Early or late in the season, before the snow gets too deep, you might be able to drive an additional 0.4 mile to the iron barrier gate, with a parking pullout on the right side of the road.)

The route begins at the gate and shadows the freeway. Depending where on the path you are, you might snowshoe to the accompaniment of traffic din and sometimes along quieter stretches, with sounds dampened by earth, trees, or distance. The section to the lower and westernmost of the runaway truck ramps on Interstate 70’s westbound lanes is close to the highway, but then it veers left and follows a quieter track along Black Gore Creek. Landmarks along the way are the junction with the Two Elk Pass Trail, which joins in from the right 1.8 miles from the trailhead, and utility structures are 3.3 miles from the start of the hike. Continue another 0.5 mile to the easternmost runaway truck ramp, which is considered the end of the winter trail. Turn around and retrace your route to the trailhead.

Snowshoeing

Trail 81 OLD VAIL PASS RD.

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The Vail Valley Trail 82 RED SANDSTONE RD. ◆ Challenging Distance • 3.3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,400 feet Highest elevation • 9,400 feet Elevation difference • 1,000 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #108, Vail, Frisco, Dillon; USGS 7.5-Minute, Vail West

The road heads north/northwest and has a southern exposure, so while it is largely treesheltered, it might contain some bare patches or even melt off significantly in warm, lowsnow winters. When the cover is good, it offers as long, elevation-gaining, and leg-stretching a snowshoe run or hike as you might wish. From Interstate 70’s Exit 176, turn north and proceed on N. Frontage Rd. about 1 mile to Red Sandstone Rd. (Forest Service Road 700). Turn right and drive about 0.5 mile to the end of the plowed section. Begin snowshoeing up this unplowed road. From the end of the plowed section, it is 0.7 mile to a fork. Red Sandstone Rd., the left fork, parallels Red Sandstone Creek. It heads mostly north through the forest, punctuated now and again by meadows and clearings, with an occasional bend and one sharp switchback about halfway to your goal, a major fork with Forest Road 786, 3.3 miles from the trailhead. Return by the same route.

If You Want a Longer Hike. It is 6.6 miles to Lost Lake, reached by stringing together a series of unplowed roads and trails to the lake, at 10,158 feet. The entire route to the lake, when doubled for the round-trip, is a daunting distance for many people. Commercial snowmobile operators groom the route, so length is mitigated by the fact that the surface is always packed and never requires breaking trail.

Alpine Ski Resort Vail Mountain. Snowshoeing is encouraged on designated trails at the Vail Cross Country Center at Golden Peak and LionsHead areas. Both also offer snowshoe rentals and guided nature tours. Snowshoers are welcome on the mountain but are asked to stay on the side of trails shared with skiers and snowboarders. Golden Peak is best on stormy days, while on clear days the views from the top of LionsHead can’t be beat. If you want to take a snowshoe hike at Golden Peak, you can do it either the hard way, starting at the cross-country center at the 8,217-foot base and walking up Windisch Way and Mill Creek Rd. for a total of 3.1 miles, or the easy way, by purchasing a single-ride ticket for the Riva Bahn Express lift. You can ride to the top, at 9,740 feet, and snowshoe down, detouring on the 1.1-mile Mill Creek Loop, or you can get off at the midway unloading point and hike up or down. If LionsHead appeals to you, buy a singleride foot passenger ticket (good for a roundtrip) on the Eagle Bahn gondola, which speeds passengers up to 10,350 feet. At this writing, the lift is free to nonskiers/nonsnowboarders after 2:00 P.M. daily. For many people, the ride to the top station at Adventure Ridge is itself part of the adventure. Located high on a shoulder of Vail Mountain, this high-altitude theme

CENTRAL The Vail Valley

Competitions and Special Events The annual Atlas Snowshoe Shuffle, established in 1993 to benefit breast cancer prevention, education, and treatment, is Vail Valley’s (and one of Colorado’s) largest snowshoeing events. Held in early April, it includes a serious 10K race, competitive and noncompetitive 5K events, and a “family shuffle.” Different courses have been used, with Beaver Creek as the most recent site. For information and registration, contact the Vail Valley Medical Center, P.O. Box 40,000, CO 81658; (970) 476-2451 (Monday–Friday, 7:00 A.M.–5:00 P.M.). Local snowshoe racer Mike Moher has been putting on the Snowshoe Shuffle Fitness Series, a 4-week training session to prepare competitors for the event. For details or to sign up, call the Beaver Creek Cross Country Center at (970) 845-5313. Other Vail Valley races include the Colorado State Snowshoe Championships, held at Meadow Mountain near Minturn in January, and the Vail Mountain Uphill, held early in March, a 9-mile event that includes a lot of uphills and downhills. For details on either of these races, call (970) 845-0931.

■ ◆ Moderate (to the old homestead); challenging (to the line house) Distance • 1.85 miles (to the old homestead); 3.5 miles (to the line house) Avalanche hazard • None to low Starting elevation • 7,740 feet Highest elevation • 8,450 feet (at the old homestead); 9,760 feet (at the line house) Elevation difference • 710 feet (to the old homestead); 2,020 feet (to the line house) Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #108, Vail, Frisco, Dillon; USGS 7.5-Minute, Minturn; Eagle Eye/Trails Illustrated Maps CrossCountry Skier’s Map, Vail-Leadville (out of print)

From Interstate 70’s Exit 171 (Minturn), drive south briefly on U.S. 24 and turn right at the U.S. Forest Service Ranger District office. Turn left into the plowed but unpaved day-use parking area. Above the west side of the parking area are the trails from the defunct Meadow Mountain ski area, now a snowplay area. Access to the trail that skirts around Meadow Mountain and continues into the backcountry is through a gate at the south end of the parking area. The Meadow Mountain trail is a wide, easyto-follow road. Because of its relatively low starting elevation and several unshaded southfacing sections near the bottom, the lower portions can melt off fairly early in spring. If that is the case, start hiking but carry your snowshoes. You will be using them soon enough. The first section of the trail is fairly steep, but soon it tames down into a series of languorous switchbacks and straightaways that steadily

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park features many outdoor activities, including ice skating, snow tubing, and snow biking. It also showcases three excellent and easy snowshoeing loop trails: Top o’ the Mountain, a 2-mile loop that ascends to 10,770 feet; Owl’s Roost Trail, which skims across the mountain in a 0.75-mile loop; and Eagle’s View Trail, a pleasant 1-miler. The resort also offers guided nature tours into adjacent backcountry trails and a spectacular sunset tour from Eagles Nest, at the top of the LionsHead gondola. For details, contact the Vail Activities Desk, P.O. Box 7, Vail, CO 81658; (970) 4769090; www.vail.com.

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The Vail Valley ascend out of the valley, gradually veering away from U.S. 24, the old Rio Grande and Western railroad tracks, and the Eagle River. Be sure to look eastward across the valley to the vertical cliffs above Minturn and the Vail ski area’s Game Creek Bowl runs. As you pass a corral on the right and a small shack beyond, look over your left shoulder for a view of downtown Minturn. When you pass a sign pointing to the Grouse Mountain Trail to your left, stay on the main route, which cuts through a series of open (and often windy) meadows framed by pretty stands of aspen on the higher meadows and willows in the drainages. After the trees begin to thicken, as you pass a small frozen pond on your right, look for the tops of a log house and a crumpled barn roof ahead to the left of the trail. This is the old Nelson homestead, later owned by Jack Oleson who developed the Meadow Mountain ski area. This makes a good turnaround point for a short hike or one with moderate elevation gain. If you continue, you will follow a “more of the same” trail, alternating switchbacks and straight sections, and forested areas with clear ones. From various points as you hike higher, the trail offers tantalizing glimpses of the Gore Range to the northeast, and later, Beaver Creek to the west. After a steady westward ascent, you will come to a small cabin, formerly a line house that was home away from home for stockmen tending herds too far from the ranch to return nightly for shelter and food. The line shack is open to the public and makes a good lunch or snack stop before heading back down, but the Forest Service requests that users be respectful both of the cabin and of other users. You can either descend via the road or shortcut some of the switchbacks by snowshoeing down open meadows, because you can see the route below you. Glissading some of these little slopes is all sorts of fun.

Beaver Creek If you like luxury and elegance, Beaver Creek is the resort for you. Access to Beaver Creek Village is limited to residents and overnight guests; the general public must park in the valley near Avon and take the shuttle bus up to the main village and the lifts. The village sits in a high bowl, and the lifts climb higher still. The huge snowshoeing trail system winds around mountains and through valleys. For tourist information, contact the Vail Chamber of Commerce, 241 S Frontage Rd., E #2, Vail, CO 81657; www.vailvalleychamber.com. Nordic Center Beaver Creek Cross-Country Center.

The Nordic day lodge is located near the Strawberry Park lift in Beaver Creek Village, but the trails are at McCoy Park at the top of the mountain. More than a dozen trails fan out across two summits and three valleys. They range from long, flat routes to short, steep ones, with everything in between, totaling some 32 kilometers (nearly 20 miles). Snowshoers are welcome on the skating lanes of all trails. Additionally, Beaver Creek’s “rustic” trails are marked but not groomed, resembling backcountry trails but within the controlled, patrolled confines of the Nordic center. They are also congenial for snowshoers. Skiers and snowshoers reach the scenic trails atop McCoy Park, Colorado’s only groomed and trackset mountaintop cross-country and snowshoeing trail system, from Beaver Creek Village via the Strawberry Park Express chairlift, which slows down each chair at the loading and unloading area. The trail system has a great reputation for variety and fabulous views. From various points, you can see the Gore Range, Castle Peak, and the Flat Tops Wilderness, as well as the wild north face of New York Mountain, where an Air Force pilot mysteriously crashed his jet fighter in 1998. Picnic tables

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Guided Tours Vail Valley’s two ski Alpine ski areas, two Nordic centers, private guide services, and several individual lodging properties offer more—and more luxurious—snowshoeing tours than any other place in Colorado. Nordic Centers and Alpine Ski Areas Vail Nordic Center Tours. This cross-

country and snowshoeing facility located in East Vail currently offers three guided snowshoeing programs in conjunction with the Vail Nature Center. The Discovery Tour, an easy, in-town 1-hour morning walk offered daily follows along Gore Creek at the Vail Nordic Center. Naturalists discuss birds, bighorn sheep, weasels, and other animals that make their winter home in the Vail Valley. Take a ramble through the deep snow and quiet of the Colorado high country. The weekly Adult Backcountry Snowshoe Tour is a longer tour that leads through easy, moderate terrain along the edge of the Eagles Nest Wilderness. Both programs focus on the winter environment

Snowshoeing

and how plants and animals adapt to it. In addition, monthly full-moon snowshoe tours and winter photography workshops are given. Snowshoe rentals are available for an additional cost. For details and to preregister, call (970) 479-2264. Information is also available at www.vailrec.com/venues/naturecenter/nordic-center/index.html.

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are scattered at particularly scenic spots, and a heated yurt nestles against the trees near the junction of Discovery Loop and Polaris, two fairly easy trails. It is also possible to snowshoe on trails that stretch from the golf clubhouse in the lower reaches of Beaver Creek Village to Bachelor Gulch and on to Arrowhead, a resort development three valleys away, using 8 miles of groomed and signed “Village to Village” snowshoe trails. Some of the route includes modest ascents, but if you go from the center of Beaver Creek to Arrowhead, you are mostly snowshoeing downhill. The Nordic center also offers snowshoe rentals and guided tours, including a two-hour nature tour and a five-hour lunch tour. For details, call (970) 845-5313.

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Vail Mountain and Beaver Creek Tours. At this writing, Vail and Beaver Creek

were putting on at least one and as many as five different snowshoeing tours every day between the two resort areas. Saturday and Sunday are “slow” days, currently with just one tour each. Probably because Thursday is about the time vacationers are looking for a change of pace and a respite from the slopes, that day offers the fullest schedule: five different tours. Eagle’s Nest Tours are offered at midday, and a sunset tour takes place at dusk. Morning and afternoon nature tours leave from Golden Peak, Vail, and Beaver Creek. Naturalist and lunch tours are available at Beaver Creek. Guided groups access some 40 trailheads throughout the Vail Valley. Many routes are within ski area boundaries, but some go into the surrounding White River National Forest. For details, call (970) 845-5313.

You can explore the rustic outback on snowshoes, even in so developed a place as the Vail Valley. (Courtesy of Tubbs Snowshoes)

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The Vail Valley Tours for Hotel Guests Vail Valley’s leading resort hotels are unsurpassed in terms of luxury and service. Concierges can book any level of snowshoeing tour guests desire, but several properties put on their own programs exclusively for their own guests. The Sonnenalp Resort of Vail , boasting a location in the heart of Vail Village, offers charming, authentic Bavarian accommodations, three on-site spas, and gourmet snowshoe tours (and other activities) arranged by the resort’s knowledgeable activities staff. Guests may join complimentary daily snowshoe tours every morning, including East Vail, Vail Pass, and Minturn area trails, including free use of snowshoes, adjustable poles, and gaiters. The resort also offers weekly moonlight snowshoe hikes and private gourmet lunch tours on request. Sonnenalp Resort of Vail, 20 Vail Rd., Vail, CO 81657; (866) 284-4411 or (970) 479-5469; www.sonnenalp.com. The Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort & Spa , the resort’s largest hotel with an excellent spa and the best swimming pool/outdoor hot tub complex in Beaver Creek, offers snowshoeing as part of its fitness package. The hotel’s Snowshoe Package, described as a “nontour tour,” includes rental snowshoes, a ticket to ride the Strawberry Park Express lift, and a picnic lunch. It can be booked through the fitness center. Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort, P.O. Box 1595, Avon, CO 81620; (970) 949-1234; http://beavercreek.hyatt.com. The Lodge & Spa at Cordillera is an elegant hotel with an award-winning restaurant, newly renovated spa, and multicourse golf club that anchors a posh residential community on a high mesa overlooking Edwards, near the western end of the Vail Valley. The resort offers doorstep snowshoeing, additional winter trails around the links and surrounding forest from the Nordic Center, which in summer is the golf clubhouse, and guided backcountry excursions, including gourmet snowshoe tours.

Participants get to keep a fanny pack and water bottle that are souvenirs of Cordillera’s snowshoe program. Lodge & Spa at Cordillera, 2206 Cordillera Way, Edwards, CO 81632; (800) 877-3529 or (970) 926-2200; www.cordilleravail.com. Private Guide Services Trail Wise Guides. Founded in 1991 by Tom Wiesen and once called Shrine Mountain Adventure, Trail Wise Guides offers outstanding hands-on naturalist tours into the backcountry not far from Vail. The company also offers fullday adventure for physically fit snowshoers who want to challenge themselves and undertake ascents of up to 2,000 vertical feet. All hikes include transportation, all equipment (snowshoes, poles, gaiters or overboots, and small day pack or fanny pack), and a fine trailside picnic lunch. The company will do tours for as few as two people or as many as twenty (with two guides), so that everyone has a chance to learn about the forest and mountain winter environment. Wiesen’s slogan is “We put the wilderness within everyone’s reach”—and so he does. Trail Wise Guides, P.O. Box 4, Red Cliff, CO 81649; (800) 261-5364 or (970) 827-5363; www.trailwiseguides.com. Piney River Ranch. Winter access to this

multiactivity, multisport guest ranch, surrounded by national forest land and located 10 miles from the nearest plowed road, can be reached via snowmobile or Hummer with oversnow tracks instead of tires. In addition to lodging for overnight guests, day visitors can take full-day excursions with lunch and halfday excursions with a snack that includes a choice of such activities as guided snowshoeing, ice skating, and sledding. Piney River Ranch, 1000 Lions Ridge Loop, Ste. 3A, Vail, CO 81657 (office); (866) 44-PINEY or (970) 477-1171; www.pineyriverranch.com.

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Leadville and Twin Lakes LEADVILLE IS THE PROTOTYPICAL OLD Colorado mountain town, whose boomand-bust community was enriched by silver, gold, molybdenum, manganese, and turquoise hauled out of hundreds of surrounding mines. In 1880, it was Colorado’s second-largest city. By the turn of the century, it had sunk into an economic abyss, a slump that continued into the twentieth century as mine after mine shut down. The self-proclaimed “Cloud City” still reigns over the Rockies, but she has assumed the role of dowager queen. Although her most glamorous years are behind her, she still is a grand lady—a wrinkle here and a sag there, but overall a lot of funky charm. The main street, Harrison Ave., is lined with historic buildings such as the Tabor Opera House, the Tabor Block, the Delaware Hotel, and other handsome storefronts. To the east and west are residential neighborhoods with whimsical, multihued Victorian buildings reminiscent of San Francisco’s Painted Ladies. The heart of the city—at 10,152 feet, the highest in the United States—is a National Historic District. The National Museum of Mining is a treasure trove of memorabilia from a unique era in our past, and several house museums preserve the spirit of the boom days. Leadville has never forgotten its first millionaires, especially Horace Tabor, who went from rags to riches and back to rags. Tabor was a lowly merchant, a highfalutin silver baron, a U.S. senator, and, finally, an impoverished postmaster. The stars of Leadville’s true-life soap opera—Tabor; his stalwart first wife Augusta, whom he divorced; and his second wife, the winsome Baby Doe, who really did love him for richer and for poorer—still loom large on the local landscape. And what a landscape it is. The headwaters of the Arkansas River flow from mountains just to the north, and the mountain range with the state’s loftiest summits stretches to the south. Colorado’s two highest peaks, 14,443foot Mt. Elbert and 14,421-foot Mt. Massive, are visible from many points around town. Hardcore mountaineers climb them year-round, starting these winter ascents on snowshoes as far as treeline and proceeding on boots from there. But even for those who would never dream of such an expedition, the high country is alluring. Winter starts early, sets in firmly, and lasts well into spring, making Leadville a reliable snowshoe destination. You can snowshoe from the edge of town into a historic mining area, where dreams once became fortunes, on wonderful backcountry routes, and on Downtown Leadville is a historic gem that maintains an air groomed cross-country trails. South of of contemporary casual charm. Fancy Victoriana blends surprisingly easily with outdoor sports. (Courtesy of Ski Leadville is Twin Lakes, which in winCooper) ter is the end of the road, because the

CENTRAL Leadville and Twin Lakes

GETTING THERE From Denver, drive west on Interstate 70. Take the exit for Copper Mountain and Leadville (Exit 195) and drive south on CO Hwy. 91 over Fremont Pass. Just north of Leadville, Hwy. 91 merges into U.S. 24 to become the city’s main street. From Grand Junction, take Interstate 70 east to the Mintur n exit (Exit 171) and drive south on U.S. 24 for 25 miles over Tennessee Pass. From Colorado Springs, take U.S. 24 west through Buena Vista to Leadville. Leadville is 103

miles from Denver, 178 miles from Grand Junction, and 129 miles from Colorado Springs. Twin Lakes is 22 miles southwest of Leadville. To reach it from town, take U.S. 24 south for 15 miles and tur n right (west) on CO Hwy. 82 for 7 miles to Twin Lakes Village.

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Not only is Leadville an authentic town with a colorful distant past, but it is important in modern snowshoeing history too. It has been a hotbed of Colorado snowshoeing since Bill Perkins, the Johnny Appleseed of modern snowshoe design, started making Redfeather snowshoes in a small factory there. Tom Sobal, the Tiger Woods of snowshoe racers, has been instrumental in sprinkling the local winter calendar with some of the most interesting and demanding snowshoe races. Leadville and nearby Twin Lakes offer an excellent winter escape. Lodging includes delightful B&Bs, budget motels, and country inns, all at rates far lower than those at major Alpine ski resorts, and all offer easy access to numerous snowshoeing trails. So committed is Leadville to snowshoeing that it became Colorado’s first community to put out a free winter trail map that specifically included snowshoeing. You can pick it up at the Chamber of Commerce visitor center, the Forest Service ranger office just north of town, and at various intown sporting goods stores and other local businesses.

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road over Independence Pass to Aspen is unplowed. This tiny hamlet tucked into a valley just east of the pass is part of the Leadville sphere of recreational influence. To the north of Leadville, on the other side of Tennessee Pass, is Camp Hale, a historic site in the midst of a spectacular mountain setting. The 10th Mountain Division, the nation’s only mountaineering and ski troops, trained there and distinguished itself during World War II. A solemn monument to the division sits atop Tennessee Pass at the entrance to Ski Cooper and the Piney Creek Nordic Center, and the 10th Mountain Division Hut System was created as a peacetime way to honor the men who learned to love the mountains during the war. If you are hiking with your dog, be aware that Lake County does have a leash law, though locals report that it is rarely enforced. However, in places of historic mining activity, with open shafts and pits just off-trail, leashing your dog is suggested for safety—leash law or no leash law. For resort information, contact the Leadville/Lake County Chamber of Commerce, 809 Harrison Ave., P.O. Box 861, Leadville, CO 80461; (800) 933-3901 or (719) 486-3900; www.leadvilleusa.com. Commercial Web sites with useful information include www.leadville.com and www.fourteenernet.com/winter/.

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Leadville and Twin Lakes Trails 84 and 85 MINING DISTRICT LOOP ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 7 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • Low, but it is important to stay on the marked route, because shafts and other hazardous remnants of mining activity are just off-trail Starting elevation • 10,800 feet Highest elevation • 11,740 feet Elevation difference • 940 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashes highly recommended) Maps • USGS 7.5-Minute, Leadville North, Climax, Mt. Sherman, Leadville South; Mining District Map, available free at the chamber of commerce and local businesses

Called the Silver City Trail in some publications, this route offers a hike through Leadville’s mining history. Drive east on Seventh St., passing the famous Matchless Mine, where Baby Doe Tabor died, to a parking pullout at the end. The route follows old roadways and railroad grades through the fabled mining district. This is not an area of brightly painted houses or cute shops but the remnants of the working mines that made nineteenth-century Leadville the brightest star in Colorado. Look for the blue markers on the right side of the route; the orange markers indicate historic sites. It is imperative to follow the marked trail because of the old mine shafts and pits and other hazards. From the trail junction, snowshoe southeastward, paralleling Lincoln Gulch. At the trailhead, take the left fork into Evans Gulch and cross South Evans Creek twice, winding through an area once known as Stumptown. At 0.6–0.7 mile, be sure to stay left of the mine shafts. This side loop first curves to the right, then to the left, then reconnects to the main

route, which soon makes a swooping hairpin turn to the right. Two miles from the trailhead, it crosses Fifth St. and another parking area. From there, the Mining District Loop twists into a figure eight. Make a sharp left, which is a straight continuation of Fifth St., and contour up the side of Breece Hill. At the next trail intersection, either turn right to shorten the loop by about 1.5 miles and return to Fifth St. or continue straight to the route’s highest point 11,960 feet above sea level. If you choose the latter, longer option, the route loops sharply around the head of Oro Gulch, where open pits on both sides require you to stay religiously on the trail. The downhill will take you back through the four-way intersection, where you turn left to return to the Fifth St. pullout. Return to the Seventh St. parking area by going straight rather than right to repeat the Stumptown Loop. If You Want a Longer Hike. The recommended trailhead with ample parking, marked #85 on the locater map, accesses the Mineral Belt Trail. It is right off U.S. 24 south of town, just below the Colorado Mountain College Timberline Campus. The Mineral Belt Trail, assembled from new roads and old railroad grades, incorporating sections of the Mining District Loop Trails, was dedicated in 2000. This is a fabulous and fascinating 12.5-mile recreational loop trail. It stretches deep into the mining area called California Gulch, then returns to the highway again, where it also intersects with downtown streets. It is paved for summer use by in-line skaters, wheelchair users, runners, joggers, and walkers, and in winter is maintained for snowshoers and cross-country skiers. Recreational snowmobiling is prohibited, but large snowcats do groom the route.

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Snowshoeing

the hill, bear left twice and park near the trailhead, which is on the left. Free CMC trail maps are available from the receptionist in the administration building, but you don’t really need a map to find your way back—the entire trail system is a series of loops. The classic cross-country track is always set on the right, which creates an automatic orientation point, enabling you to complete a loop and return to your starting point. Much of the trail system is atop a flat hill, so if you follow the Exercise Loop, obvious because of the parcours exercise signs poking out of the snow, you will be on an easy trail. If you drop into Pawnee Gulch, you will have some uphill. If you go to the back end of the trail system, you can climb to Sunset Ridge, at 10,200 feet the highest point on the system. At this writing, none of the trails were labeled, but eventually they may be. The CMC trail system also links up with the Mineral Belt Trail (see above), which puts it in the recreational mainstream of central Colorado.

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Colorado Mountain College Trails Elsewhere in the state, “CMC” means Colorado Mountain Club, the statewide mountaineering and environment organization. In high-country communities like Leadville, the initials stand for Colorado Mountain College. The Timberline Campus of this two-year college perches on a hillside east of U.S. 24, just south of Leadville. One of its major fields of study is ski area operations, and Nordic skiers and snowshoers are the lucky beneficiaries. The college owns 315 acres and leases an additional 400 acres, on which it grooms 18 kilometers of trails plus additional small segments to create 1-, 3- and 5-kilometer loops. Use of these trails is free. Snowshoers are welcome to use the skating lanes. In addition, local snowshoers have scouted out and informally pack and maintain snowshoeing trails through the woods. To reach the campus and trailhead, drive south from town on U.S. 24 and turn left at the Colorado Mountain College sign. Continue up

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Leadville and Twin Lakes Trail 86 TURQUOISE LAKE ◆ Challenging Distance • 14.3 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,880 feet Highest elevation • 10,700 feet Elevation difference • 820 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #127, Aspen, Independence Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Leadville North; USGS 7.5-Minute, Homestake Reservoir; Eagle Eye/Trails Illustrated Maps Cross-Country Skier’s Map, Vail-Leadville (out of print)

The route around Turquoise Lake is not technically difficult, but its sheer length makes it challenging for those who attempt the whole loop. Most recreational snowshoers won’t do that, though runners who compete in local snowshoe races think nothing more of it than a jaunt over the snow. The lake is also known for its fine ice-fishing, which gives snowshoers something to look at as they make their way around the shore, if they can wrench their eyes away from the panoramic Sawatch Range. To reach the Turquoise Lake winter trailhead, take Sixth St. west to the end and turn right on McWethy Rd. Bear left and continue on Lake County Road 4 until you cross the railroad tracks. After 0.2 mile, the road splits into a three-pronged fork, where you bear right and continue 1.9 miles to the parking pullouts to the left and right side of the road (just before the Sugarloaf Dam at the south end of the reservoir). This popular and well-used route is a paved road that in winter is open to motorized and non-motorized users.

If you are a recreational snowshoer out for a hike rather than a training run, start out in either direction, go as far as you like, and retrace your steps on the return hike. To snowshoe clockwise, head north from the west end of the dam. The route begins to climb as it follows the southern shore of the lake, which has a somewhat elongated kidney shape. The route eventually leaves the lakeshore, climbing about 200 feet to its highest point on the south side of the lake, located at the junction with the Hagerman Pass Rd. Stay right at the junction and drop down to the inlet, which you reach just after crossing Busk Creek. At this point, you are somewhat less than halfway around the lake. If you make it this far, you can decide whether to retrace your steps or to continue and complete the circuit. Snowshoeing the entire route requires stamina—both because of the distance and because it includes two challenging ascents. Continuing clockwise, you will end up climbing to an elevation of 10,700 feet (even higher than the Hagerman Pass Rd. junction) after about 2.5 miles. The trail is farther from the lake along the north shore than it is along the south shore. A highlight of this section is the Mosquito Overlook, a popular summer picnic spot boasting a grand winter panorama. Follow the trail along the ridge as it descends to the east and then turns south passing boat ramps, campgrounds, and picnic areas on its route to the dam and the starting point.

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Oro City was built to replicate the spirit of Leadville’s old mining days. Now it is one of the landmarks along the Colorado Mountain College Timberline Campus trail system. (Photo by Claire Walter)

● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 3.1 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,570 feet Highest elevation • 9,930 feet (Halfmoon Campground) Elevation difference • 360 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #127, Aspen, Independence Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Mt. Massive; Eagle Eye/Trails Illustrated Maps Cross-Country Skier’s Map, Vail–Leadville (out of print)

This route is special because it is in such a rarefied neighborhood. It heads toward Mt. Elbert and runs south of Mt. Massive, Colorado’s two highest mountains. On clear days, the scenery is unsurpassed. To reach the trailhead, take U.S. 24 south of Leadville. About 2 miles out of town, turn right (west) onto CO Hwy. 300, then left (south) after 0.8 mile onto Lake County Road 160. Turn right after 1.2 miles onto County Road 110 at the sign pointing to the Halfmoon Campground. The road is plowed for almost another mile to the mouth of the Halfmoon Creek Valley, and the unplowed section is used for winter recreation, including snowmobiles. Parking can be tight on weekends, when vehicles—many with snowmobile trailers—vie for limited space at the trailhead of this well-used and popular route. Halfmoon Rd. heads southwest for the entire distance, much of it through a broad valley floor. It is wide, simple to follow, and technically easy, but a round-trip of more than 6 miles, if you go all the way to the summer campground, as well as some early tricky spots, bump it up into the “moderate” category. If there are icy stretches or high winds, you are most likely to encounter them at the

Snowshoeing

Trail 87 HALFMOON RD.

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Races With a high elevation, reliable snow, community support, and a great tradition of modern snowshoeing, Leadville is the preeminent locale for snowshoe racing, particularly endurance events. One major reason that Colorado snowshoe racing has centered on Leadville is the presence of Tom Sobal, Colorado’s peerless veteran snowshoe racer and America’s premier male distance snowshoe racer. Sobal organizes the annual Off-Track, OffBeat Snowshoe Race at the Sugar Loafin’ Campground near Leadville. This high-altitude racing season opener, which takes place in December, is contested at 10 kilometers. It is particularly challenging because its runners follow an unset, ungroomed, untracked route that requires some navigation skills as well as endurance. The following month, the distance doubles for the annual Turquoise Lake 20Kilometer Snow Shoe Run, which also starts at the Sugar Loafin’ Campground. If the OTOB race is daunting, the Turquoise Lake event is doubly so. For information and entry forms, call (719) 539-4112, or go to www.red-feather.com or www.racingunderground.com/ offtrack04.pdf.

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Leadville and Twin Lakes beginning of the route. There are several spur routes and side trails, but the most distinctive fork comes at 0.5 mile from the start of the route, where you bear left to stay on the main road. Halfmoon Creek is on your left for the next 0.5 mile, during which you will pass several service buildings and cross a bridge as you continue toward Mt. Elbert. When the road enters the San Isabel National Forest, you will begin to see both orange and blue diamonds marking the trail for motorized and non-motorized use. The campground is the main snowshoe destination of this fine route, although you can turn around at any point and retrace your steps to the parking area.

Trail 88 WILLOW CREEK TRAIL ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 3.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,570 feet Highest elevation • 10,580 feet Elevation difference • 1,010 feet Snowmobiles • Yes, to wilderness boundary; prohibited thereafter Dogs • Yes (leash required in wilderness area) Maps • Trails Illustrated #127, Aspen, Independence Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Mt. Massive

Access to this route is the same as for Halfmoon Rd. (see previous trail description). It is slightly longer and has more than twice the elevation gain of its neighbor. Snowmobiles are prohibited and dogs must be leashed when inside the Mt. Massive Wilderness. Begin snowshoeing at the snow barrier and the end of the plowed section, and bear right (west) at the fork after 0.5 mile. The initial mile, first along the often-windy portion of Halfmoon Rd. and then the lower part of the Willow Creek Trail, is very gentle. After you pass an old ranch just short of 1 mile from the trailhead, the route begins to steepen and subtly curves south. It leads up along Willow Creek on Mt. Massive’s southeast side and is easy to follow. The only questionable spot comes at about 1.5 miles, where you should continue snowshoeing up along the south side of the valley to remain on this trail rather than crossing the creek. The trail becomes steeper for the next mile, passing into the wilderness area 2.25 miles from the trailhead. The junction with the Colorado Trail at 3.5 miles makes a suitable turnaround for most snowshoers, but you may want to turn back even sooner because the final 0.5 mile is the steepest.

CENTRAL Leadville and Twin Lakes

Craig Schreiber is a landscape architect who used to be a full-time hiking and snowshoeing guide and continues to guide on the side, especially in the winter, which is off-season for the landscape business. His knowledge of the Rocky Mountain environment is epic. Sawatch Naturalists & Guides, 2057 Lodgepole Dr., Leadville, CO 80461; (719) 486-1856. Trails South of Leadville Leadville National Fish Hatchery.

Snowshoeing? At a fish hatchery? It seems improbable, but actually it’s quite wonderful. The historic Leadville National Fish Hatchery, operated by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, was established in 1889. Fifteen trout tanks are housed in a complex of picturesque buildings located on vast, wooded acreage laced with summer work roads and trails, many within sight of mighty Mt. Massive and all available for snowshoeing and ski touring. This trail system is entirely avalanche-free. To reach the hatchery, drive south out of Leadville on U.S. 24. After 2 miles, turn right (west) onto Hwy. 300 and drive about 2 miles more to the well-marked parking area. The trailhead is to the left (south) of the main building, and trails fan out behind it. A pamphlet with a trail map can also be

obtained at the hatchery. The network is complicated, so it’s a good idea to consult the map frequently and keep a sharp eye out for the blue markers that designate trails, except where the Kearney Park Trail enters the Mt. Massive Wilderness. A 1-mile-long beginner loop circles some of the five little bodies of water called Evergreen Lakes, which are just steps from the hatchery buildings and are located at 9,650 feet. Easy, flat, and pretty, this is ideal for new snowshoers and small children. You can get in a little up and down on the Diversion Dam Loop, which measures 1.8 miles with 280 feet of elevation change. The climb and descent are concentrated in two short pitches, so it is a bit more demanding than its modest numbers indicate. Two longer loops feature significant elevation gains and some steep challenging sections. They can be combined into an extra-long and particularly demanding one. They follow summer hiking trails stretching westward from the trailhead and can be hiked in either direction. The Highline Trail Loop is 6 miles with 1,360 feet of elevation change, and the Kearney Park Trail is 5 miles with 1,050 feet of elevation change. Both loops involve using the Rock Creek Trail, paralleling a stream of the same name, either on the outbound or return leg, and a stretch of the Colorado Trail across the top.

Snowshoeing

Sawatch Naturalists & Guides.

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Leadville and Twin Lakes Trail 89 WESTON PASS RD. ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 3.8 miles (one way to Gold Basin Rd.) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,670 feet Highest elevation • 10,980 feet Elevation difference • 1,310 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #110, Leadville, Fairplay; USGS 7.5-Minute, Leadville South

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This route is wide, easy to follow, and wellpacked because it is popular with snowmobilers and therefore reliably packed and rarely requires breaking trail. It provides a good workout as it features a significant elevation gain. To reach what is a summer four-wheeldrive road that crests over Weston Pass and joins U.S. 285 near Fairplay, drive south of Leadville on U.S. 24 for 7.4 miles. Bear left at the Weston Pass sign. Private property flanks the lower portion of the road, which threads among the Mount Massive Lakes and passes gently hilly residential subdivisions en route to the end of the plowed section, 4 miles from the turn-off. Weston Pass Rd. is marked as Forest Service Road 425, eventually joining and additionally designated as Lake County Road 7.

The route parallels Big Union Peak, which first slices through rock bands that form a dramatic little canyon and then opens into a lovely, wide valley. You can pick your distance, and depending on how far you go, you will pass open fields, forests, old cabins, and other historic structures, but the junction with Gold Basin Rd., which comes in on the left, is a good place to turn around. As you ascend from the Arkansas River Valley into the high country, you will see Ptarmigan Peak and the northern tip of the Buffalo Peaks Wilderness on the right. Return the way you came, enjoying the great view of Mt. Elbert, Colorado’s highest peak, on the descent back to the trailhead. If You Want a Longer Hike. If you have the energy and the interest, continue farther up the road, but you will want to turn back before reaching the high, wild, and windy precincts approaching the 11,921-foot pass.

CENTRAL Leadville and Twin Lakes

Trail 90 INTERLAKEN TRAIL

Trail 91 SOUTH ELBERT TRAIL ■ Moderate Distance • 1.8 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,620 feet Highest elevation • 10,500 feet Elevation difference • 880 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #127, Aspen, Independence Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Granite; USGS 7.5-Minute, Independence Pass

● Easy Distance • 3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,210 feet Highest elevation • 9,270 feet Elevation difference • 60 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #110, Leadville, Fairplay; USGS 7.5-Minute, Granite

Like its Swiss namesake, Interlaken is the name of an old resort built in the 1870s for Leadville’s carriage trade and now long abandoned. It was beautifully situated between two lakes—in this case the two sections of Twin Lakes Reservoir. The trail is flat and easy, but the 6-mile round-trip makes it challenging enough for some very new or very young snowshoers. To reach the trailhead, take Hwy. 82 about 3 miles from U.S. 24 to a parking area at the western end of the eastern lake. Cross the bridge and follow the dam. At the intersection with the Colorado Trail, bear right (west) and follow it to the resort, which today consists of a few boarded-up cabins and outbuildings. Explore this site, imagining what it was like more than 120 years ago, and return the way you came.

Snowshoeing

CO Hwy. 82 links Leadville and the Arkansas River Valley with Aspen and the Roaring Fork Valley via Independence Pass, but in winter, snows close this narrow, winding, two-lane road hacked into the mountainside. The small settlement at the highway’s eastern end becomes a quiet retreat for backcountry enthusiasts, who enjoy excellent snow, fantastic views of Colorado’s highest string of fourteeners, and very few people.

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In summer, this is considered an alternate route to the summit of Colorado’s highest mountain, because most hikers ascend from the north. The unpaved forest road to the summer trailhead makes a fine winter recreation trail. To reach this route, which starts as a summer four-wheel-drive road, take Hwy. 82 west for 4.2 miles from U.S. 24, then take Lake County Road 24, which angles off to the right. Wind up the south-facing hill for 1.3 miles to the parking area on the left. Cross a small bridge on the main road to the South Elbert Trail (Forest Service Road 125) on the left. The route essentially heads west and is especially interesting for its vegetation, which changes rapidly as you proceed. As you ascend from the trailhead, you will pass through a semiarid meadow spiked with sagebrush. Soon, aspen mingles with sage, creating an attractive combination. The aspen forest stretches for a mile, intercepted by one band of coniferous trees and a few strays here and there. If you see large animal tracks in the snow, it’s most likely evidence of a hundredhead herd of elk whose main range is around the flanks of Mt. Elbert and Mt. Massive. The trail steepens and then flattens, and through openings in the trees are great views of Hope Mountain, Quail Mountain, and the aptly

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Leadville and Twin Lakes named Twin Peaks. The trail becomes steeper again, contouring around a hillside to a small rise that overlooks a willow-filled valley called Bartlett Gulch, which is moist in summer, evidence of beaver activity in the area. The steep and dramatic chutes and gullies of Mt. Elbert’s eastern face are on your left. The trail dips slightly through the gulch, then climbs steeply through an evergreen forest. A good place to turn around, at 1.6 miles, is where the trail crosses Corske Creek, an area known for its lovely Lily Ponds, which, though frozen, can be explored before retracing your route. If You Want a Longer Hike. At the Lily Ponds, take the right fork and follow the Continental Divide Trail around the east side of Mt. Elbert to connect with the North Mt. Elbert Trail. Snowshoe as far as you like. Small dips and rises occur along the route, but you will remain at more or less the same elevation— roughly 10,500 feet—the entire way.

Snowshoe Clinics Mt. Elbert Lodge Snowshoe Clinics.

Beginning in late 1998, snowshoeing guru Tom Sobal inaugurated two-day Mt. Elbert Lodge Snowshoe Clinics—and he has been conducting them ever since. Tom continues imparting his knowledge and teaching his skills several times each winter, based in the congenial Mt. Elbert Lodge in tiny Twin Lakes. The clinics begin with an informational slide presentation and demonstration on snowshoeing equipment, clothing, technique, good snowshoeing places in the region, and winter safety. This indoor session is followed by on-snow instruction. One level of the clinic is aimed at beginners to intermediates; another is intended for advanced snowshoers who want to refine their technique. The clinic includes two nights’ accommodations in the quaint lodge or nearby cabins as well as all meals. The remote and tranquil setting makes for a winter idyll— but this idyll is not for the idle, rather for ambitious snowshoers. Mt. Elbert Lodge, P.O. Box 40, Twin Lakes, CO 81251; (800) 381-4433 or (719) 486-0594; www.mount-elbert.com.

The South Elbert Trail, an unplowed road that leads to a summer trailhead for Colorado’s highest peak, is lined with aspens and conifers, which open here and there for excellent Sawatch views. (Photo by Claire Walter)

CENTRAL Leadville and Twin Lakes

■ Moderate Distance • 2.6 miles (one way to Sayres Gulch Rd.) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 10,130 feet Highest elevation • 10,540 feet Elevation difference • 410 feet (plus ascents and descents adding about 250 feet) Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #127, Aspen, Independence Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Independence Pass

The parking area for this trail is a short distance beyond the beginning part of South Fork Lake Creek Rd. (Forest Service Road 391), a summer four-wheel-drive route. Because of avalanche considerations, the junction with Sayres Gulch Rd. (Forest Service Road 382) is the recommended turnaround point. Although the elevation difference between the start of the road and its junction with Sayres Gulch Rd. is only 410 feet, many small ups and downs produce roughly an extra 250 feet lost and regained each way if you go the entire distance.

The unplowed road is on the south side of Hwy. 82, 14.5 miles from the turnoff from U.S. 24. Cross a bridge over Lake Creek almost immediately and then follow South Fork, one of its tributaries, up a long valley. At the La Plata summer trailhead, on the left (south) after 0.3 mile, continue straight on the main road, bearing slightly to the right (southwest). After 1.5 miles, the route crosses into the San Isabel National Forest boundary, winding gently between 12,000-foot-plus mountains before opening into a generous basin below Grizzly Mountain. The junction with the Sayres Gulch Rd., which branches off to the left (south), makes a good turnaround point. If You Want a Longer Hike. The road continues straight another 2 miles. If conditions are reported safe, you can continue on the main route. At a fork, you have the choice of taking the right fork into McNasser Gulch (Forest Service Road 394) or the left branch, which continues along South Fork Lake Creek and goes into Peekaboo Gulch. This back section beyond the next fork, however, is not recommended because of the potential for avalanches.

Snowshoeing

Trail 92 SOUTH FORK LAKE CREEK RD.

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Leadville and Twin Lakes Trails North of Leadville The Leadville regional map is dotted with place-names that include states older than Colorado: California Gulch, Iowa Gulch, Missouri Creek, Missouri Mountain, and Tennessee Pass, thought to have been named by prospectors from the Volunteer State. At 10,424 feet, Tennessee Pass is not one of Colorado’s highest passes, nor is it the most dramatic, but it is geographically and historically significant. Beginning 10 miles northwest of Leadville off U.S. 24, the pass is part of the Continental Divide separating the Eagle River, which is part of the Colorado River system, and the Arkansas River, which eventually flows into the Mississippi. The Denver and Rio Grande Railway once traversed the pass, and its railbed today is one of many snowshoe-friendly trails in the network that crown it. Half a dozen interlinked trails on the west side of Tennessee Pass can be combined into routes of various lengths, so that every fitness level, snowshoeing speed, and energy level can be accommodated. Farther north is the Pando Valley, site of Camp Hale, where the much-heralded 10th Mountain Division trained during and immediately after World War II. A historic marker atop Tennessee Pass commemorates the daring and heroism of the 10th, and an interpretive sign along the highway explains the layout and history of Camp Hale.

Trail 93 MITCHELL CREEK LOOP ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 7.25 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,424 feet Highest elevation • 10,600 feet Lowest elevation • 9,920 feet Elevation difference • 680 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #109, Breckenridge, Tennessee Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Pando, Leadville North; Eagle Eye/Trails Illustrated Maps Cross-Country Skier’s Map, Vail–Leadville (out of print)

Views of the Continental Divide and Chicago Ridge behind Ski Cooper are stellar attractions of this route, which can be tailored for snowshoers of varying levels of ability and stamina. Beginners, or anyone who isn’t comfortable climbing at these altitudes, can snowshoe out and back for about 1 mile on the right (northern) section of the trail or as far as 2.5 miles on the left (southern) section, which are both fairly flat. Stronger snowshoers can do the whole loop, which passes many artifacts from the past. The trailhead is at a large, wellmaintained, and well-marked parking lot directly off the road on the west side of Tennessee Pass.

CENTRAL Leadville and Twin Lakes

To hike this loop counterclockwise, bear right (northwest) at the trailhead and descend gently on the Colorado Trail along a railroad grade past some old charcoal kilns. The downhill steepens slightly as the trail descends into the valley. Keep to the left at the point where the Colorado Trail branches off to the right, and stay on the main trail as it twice joins the Powderhound Loop. Continue to follow the railroad grade for about 2.6 miles until it reaches its lowest point at 9,920 feet. At the sharp bend in the railroad grade, follow the stream up the valley as the trail steepens and enters the trees. After about 1.6 miles, you’ll reach the high point, which is a shade above the trailhead elevation, as you cross Wurt’s Ditch, also called Wurtz Ditch on some maps, and the Wurt’s Ditch Rd. (Forest Service Road 100) at about 4.2 miles. Stay to the left (south) at this intersection and cross through a saddle in a heavily forested area. Soon the Mitchell Creek Trail again intersects the Colorado Trail. You need to bear left (east) on the Colorado Trail. After two bridges, you begin a gentle 2.25-mile ascent back to the trailhead.

■ Moderate Distance • 4 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 10,310 feet Highest elevation • 10,680 feet Lowest elevation • 9,965 feet Elevation difference • 715 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #109, Breckenridge, Tennessee Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Leadville North; Eagle Eye/Trails Illustrated Maps CrossCountry Skier’s Map, Vail–Leadville (out of print)

This trail suffered from a severe windstorm and blowdown in 1997, and parts were impossible for snowmobiles and difficult for crosscountry skiers. However, snowshoes are more maneuverable, so snowshoers had an edge even when down timber made travel challenging for other users. Lily Lake Loop offers interesting twists and turns. To reach the trailhead, follow U.S. 24 north from Leadville about 7 miles and turn left at Crane Park, the first left after the road to Sylvan Lakes Estates. If you do not have a fourwheel-drive vehicle and/or if road conditions permit, you might have to park in the plowed lot and begin there, which adds 1.3 miles each way and an additional 170 feet of elevation change to your hike. Otherwise, drive up the four-wheel-drive road to the West Tennessee Pass sign. To snowshoe this loop counterclockwise, bear right (west) at the trailhead onto a gently climbing section of Forest Service Road 181. Pass an old cabin and go straight through the intersection with the Colorado Trail. At 1 mile, you will pass a culvert and soon thereafter, a Forest Service gate at the route’s highest point.

Snowshoeing

Trail 94 LILY LAKE LOOP

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Leadville and Twin Lakes The lake is below on your left, and you need to stay left (west) while going around it. This is the section where the tree fall was the greatest. The trail curves to the left (south) along the lake and then begins its mild descent, turning left (east) again to parallel West Tennessee Creek and then north along an old road back to the trailhead. It can also be snowshoed in a clockwise direction.

Trail 95 PANDO LOOP ● Easy Distance • 2.4 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,200 feet Highest elevation • 9,360 feet Elevation difference • 160 feet Snowmobiles • No (except on No Name Rd. segment) Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #109, Breckenridge, Tennessee Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Pando; Eagle Eye/Trails Illustrated Maps Cross-Country Skier’s Map, Vail–Leadville (out of print)

From Leadville, take U.S. 24 north from over Tennessee Pass for 6 miles or south from Minturn for 13 miles. Parking is shared with the No Name Rd. and is on the west side of the highway. The trail overlooks the northern end of the wide, flat valley carved by the Eagle River that proved so appealing to the U.S. Army for building Camp Hale, a base that could accommodate thousands of troops for training in mountain warfare. Follow the No Name Rd. (Forest Service Road 705) for 0.1 mile and then branch off to the left heading back to the southeast, paralleling the highway. The fairly wide trail cuts across a flat, open area before ascending gently up a lodgepole-covered hill. At a fork, go left (east) for 0.4 mile to a bench overlooking the Pando Valley and the Camp Hale site. An interpretive sign at the overlook explains how the Denver and Rio Grande trains once collected ice from the valley’s large ponds and discusses the 10th Mountain Division’s training site.

CENTRAL Leadville and Twin Lakes

If You Want a Longer Hike. Bear left onto No Name Rd. and snowshoe west as far as you wish, returning the way you came. After some 20 miles, No Name Rd. connects with the Wurtz Ditch Rd. at Tennessee Pass, which is considerably farther than the overwhelming majority of snowshoers would consider going.

Nordic Center Piney Creek Nordic Center. This highaltitude cross-country facility shares a base area with Ski Cooper on the east side of Tennessee Pass, making it convenient for families and groups with some members who ride the lifts to pursue their sports and some who prefer not to. The trail system backs up against the north side of the mountain on which Ski Cooper is located. Its 15.5 miles of trails are groomed and trackset, and snowshoers may use the skating lanes for a trail fee. In addition to the interlinked trails, varying from pancakeflat to challenging hills, the 5.1-mile Cooper Loop starts at the Alpine ski area base, circles it on a Forest Service trail, and returns via the Nordic center’s groomed trails. This challenging route offers energetic snowshoers and cross-country skiers some 800 feet of elevation change, a good chunk of it between mile 3 and mile 4. Snowshoes are available at the Nordic center’s rental shop. Piney Creek Nordic Center, 1520 Mt. Elbert Dr., Leadville, CO 80461; (719) 486-1750; www.tennesseepass.com/ skiing.htm.

Snowshoeing

Piney Creek is also the site of one of Colorado’s more interesting culinary experiences, lunch or dinner in a yurt that is called the Tennessee Pass Cookhouse. If you want to dine there, you should work for your feast, ascending 400 vertical feet above the Piney Creek Nordic Center. Snowshoeing through the forest, with moonbeams brightening the trail or snowflakes swirling around you, is a wonderful prelude to a dinner in an honestly charming yurt. In addition to nightly dinners, the restaurant serves lunches on weekends. If you are snowshoeing at Piney Creek during the day, the yurt is a natural on-mountain lunch stop, but you need to make an effort to have dinner there. During the day and early evening late in the season, the views of Mts. Elbert and Massive are awesome. Enter through the swinging doors into a cozy restaurant under canvas. A woodstove takes care of the physical warmth, and the candles glow softly atop wooden tables whose rich patina attests to many fine meals and good times. Melodic music, the likes of which no Mongolian ever created, and a decent wine and microbrew selection enhance the atmosphere. The carefully prepared prix fixe dinner consists of an elegant appetizer platter, soup or salad, a choice of entrées (elk tenderloin, rack of lamb, trout, chicken, or a vegetarian selection), and dessert. A dinner of this caliber would be impressive at sea level, which makes it all the more impressive at 10,800 feet. Reservations are required and can be made by calling (719) 486-8114 or (719) 486-1750, or by going to the Web site at www.tennessepass.com.

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Retrace your steps to the main trail and bear left at the junction. Continue 0.7 mile to until the Pando trail joins No Name Rd. and bear right (east) for the 0.3 mile back to the first junction and the final 0.1 mile to the trailhead.

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Leadville and Twin Lakes Hut Access 10th Mountain Division Huts. Five of

the 10th Mountain Division Hut System’s 21 huts are located around Leadville. Though developed for and still primarily frequented by backcountry skiers, some of them are good destinations for strong snowshoers who are familiar with the backcountry and able to hike several miles carrying heavy packs. Of the huts near Leadville, one stands out as being the most comfortable snowshoeing distance. Vance’s Cabin is 3.1 miles from and 555 vertical feet above the trailhead at the base of Ski Cooper, plus an additional 200 feet of elevation loss and gain. Another, Uncle Bud’s Hut, is just 3.8 miles from the trailhead at Turquoise Lake, but the elevation gain is 1,130 feet, which puts

it in the realm of a difficult ascent and a steep descent. The 10th Mountain Division Hut is 4.4 miles and 1,343 vertical feet from the Crane Park trailhead near Tennessee Pass. The Sangree M. Froehlicher Hut, the latest addition in this area, is located southeast of Ski Cooper, 3.5 miles and 1,640 vertical feet from the trailhead, making for a short but steep hike. Reservations for overnights need to be made well in advance, and someone in the group should be a good route finder. For details and reservations, contact the 10th Mountain Division Hut Association, 1280 Ute Ave., Ste. 21, Aspen, CO 81611; (970) 925-5775; www.huts.org.

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The 10th Mountain Division, America’s World War II mountain troops, trained on skis and snowshoes. Their heroism and legacy are honored by a monument atop Tennessee Pass, and their old training ground, Camp Hale, is now an open, undeveloped area for snowshoeing and other winter recreation. (Courtesy of Ski Cooper)

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Aspen and Snowmass ASPEN WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1879 as one of Colorado’s great silver camps,

initially called Ute City. Quick riches and a burgeoning population put the town on the map, but the boom went bust after the Sherman Silver Purchase Act of 1893 shifted U.S. currency from the silver standard to gold. By the 1930s, the only thing that had spared Aspen from becoming a total ghost town was its role as Pitkin County’s seat. The first chairlift was strung up Aspen Mountain after World War II, and a new ski-fired boom began. In the decades that followed, the strikingly revitalized town became synonymous with winter pleasures. In recent years, “pleasure” has taken on a new luster, as celebrities and the paparazzi who follow them have descended on Aspen, which is characterized by fantastic shops, restaurants, art galleries, and celebrities’ palatial vacation homes dotting the south-facing hillsides and flanking ski runs wherever a developer can manage to place them. In 1967, Snowmass debuted as a built-for-skiing resort a dozen miles from Aspen. Snowmass has convenient slopeside lodging with doorstep skiing from many accommodations. It isn’t as ritzy as Aspen, but keeping up with its sparkling sibling has not really been a Snowmass ambition. As built up as Aspen and Snowmass are, this consummate resort area is surrounded on three sides by wilderness: the Hunter–Fryingpan Wilderness to the east, the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness to the southeast, and the Maroon Bells–Snowmass Wilderness to the west and southwest. But you don’t have to go into the wild for snowshoeing. Aspen and Snowmass boast the nation’s largest free Nordic trail system— 65 kilometers worth, linking two developed cross-country centers and more. Some are accessible directly from town centers via a free or low-cost bus. Snowshoers too are welcome on these trails, but they are firmly requested to avoid walking on the set tracks. In addition, Aspen and Snowmass offer more guided snowshoe tours than anyplace else, and hard-charging locals have made Aspen in general and Buttermilk Mountain in particular the state’s gonzo uphill snowshoeing capital. Snowshoeing along winter-quiet rivers and streams is a way to experience the softer side of the Aspen–Snowmass resort region. (Photo by Alan Becker, courtesy of Aspen Chamber Resort Association)

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Aspen Aspen is the engine that drives the entire Roaring Fork Valley’s sports and lifestyle—brassy yet tasteful, magnetically attractive to the rich and famous from the world over, yet home to fiercely loyal locals living on average incomes. Urban and sophisticated yet at the doorstep of backcountry and wilderness areas of incomparable beauty, Aspen has it all. The center of town harbors a wonderful collection of Victorian commercial and residential buildings, accessorized by later in-fill additions, while the outskirts contain fabulous vacation getaways of the rich and famous—or at least the rich. Several popular snowshoeing routes offer a closein wilderness experience in surprising proximity to someone’s well-guarded mountain mansion. You’ll find some wonderful trails right at the edge of town; others are deep in the side valleys off the Roaring Fork Valley in which Aspen nestles so attractively. For tourist information, contact the Aspen Chamber Resort Association, 425 Rio Grande Pl., Aspen, CO 81611; (800) 262-7736 or (970) 925-1940; www.aspenchamber.org.

■ Moderate Distance • 3.7 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,300 feet Highest elevation • 9,000 feet (Van Horn Park) Elevation difference • 700 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #127, Aspen, Independence Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Aspen

Snowshoeing

Trail 96 HUNTER VALLEY TRAIL

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GETTING THERE From Denver, take Intersate 70 west to Glenwood Springs (Exit 116). Turn right at the bottom of the off-ramp, right at the first set of stoplights, and an immediate right over the bridge and onto CO Hwy. 82 east, which is the main thoroughfare through town, and follow it up the Roaring Fork Valley. The turnoff to Snowmass Village is well marked, and the highway continues up the valley to become Aspen’s Main St. It is also possible to fly to Aspen’ s Sardy Field and get around quite effectively using the Roaring Fork Transit Authority (RFTA), which has an excellent system of free or low-cost buses linking Aspen, Snowmass, and many excellent snowshoeing venues.

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From the center of Aspen, take Mill St. north (away from the Aspen Mountain ski area). Bear left onto Red Mountain Rd. at the fork just beyond the Aspen Art Museum. The road switchbacks for a mile through one of Aspen’s ritziest residential neighborhoods. Take a right at the blue Hunter Creek Parking sign onto Hunter Creek Rd. Follow it to the parking lot. To reach the trailhead, walk back down the road. Take a sharp left turn around an old wooden barn and follow an unofficial trail up over a steep little ridge, bearing right at a wooden fence on the other side of the ridge, which offers the rare view of all four Aspen ski areas: Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, the Tiehack portion of Buttermilk, and the Elk Camp section of Snowmass. You can even see Mt. Sopris in the distance on the far right. The two trail options meet at the official, and well marked, beginning of the Hunter Creek Trail (Forest Service Trail #1992). This route is the access to the 10th Mountain Division Trail, so especially if you start in midmorning, your trailmates will probably be touring skiers and snowshoers heading for the McNamara, Margy’s, and Benedict Huts—but whatever the time of day, you’re unlikely to be alone on this popular trail.

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Aspen and Snowmass The route, which bears in an east-northeast direction, is etched into the hillside, with Hunter Creek cutting the deep valley to the right. Cross the creek about 0.25 mile from the trailhead over a sturdy wooden bridge and continue snowshoeing the wide trail that climbs steeply in a wide arc through lovely woods of aspen and conifers. Another option is to make a sharp right onto the Verena Mallory Park Trail, marked by a small sign on the right just after the bridge. This is a narrower, less-used trail with lovely views. It rejoins the main trail after about 0.25 mile, after which the grade is less steep. About 1 mile from the trailhead, you will pass through a gate and into the White River National Forest (marked by a sign) and cross a large, open meadow. Stay on the main trail (a trail to the right goes toward the Benedict Hut). The route crosses Hunter Creek again over another sturdy bridge—this one built by and named for the 10th Mountain Division Trail Association—into a large, open valley dotted with old cabins and outbuildings, about 2 miles from the trailhead. The variety of structures—some tumbledown ruins, others quite solid—makes for a picturesque and photogenic scene. You can explore this wonderful high-mountain valley, which boasts the glorious views of Aspen Mountain and Tiehack, with the landmark Maroon Bells above. Follow the trail to past the Van Horn Park sign to a large, treefree basin beyond a gate. When it ascends the head of Van Horn Park, the trail steepens considerably, so many snowshoers turn around in the meadow instead of making the big climb out of the valley. Return by the same route. If You Want a Longer Hike. The route continues about 2 more miles from Van Horn Park to the McNamara Hut, located at 11,360 feet just outside of the Hunter-Fryingpan Wilderness boundary. For details on this and other huts, see page 192.

Snowshoers cross a sturdy bridge along the Hunter Valley Trail, which leads to the Van Horn Park ghost town and to several of the 10th Mountain Division huts. Access is via a fashionable part of town. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Guided Tours Aspen Center for Environmental Studies (ACES). ACES’s 25-acre natural pre-

serve at the edge of this highly developed resort town provides a refuge for threatened wildlife and educates children and adults about the mountain environment. The organization, a real treasure for locals and visitors alike, has ample summer opportunities to carry out its mission, but in winter, snowshoeing is one of ACES’s aces when it comes to introducing people to the outdoors. When there is enough snow on the ground in town, you can take a self-guided tour on the property around Hallam Lake—and when there is not, ACES’s onsite naturalists will give you advice on interesting places to go. For the Hallam Lake exploration, you can even borrow snowshoes if you don’t have any and the trail isn’t packed

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this writing, ACES has agreed to purchase Toklat, a historic structure with deep and complex ties to Aspen’s environmental, conservation, and artistic communities, and almost 3 acres of land just below Aspen Ski Touring. Toklat will become ACES’s third center for environmental programs, the two others being the Hallam Lake headquarters and the nature preserve at Rock Bottom Ranch near El Jebel. Given the proximity between Aspen Ski Touring and Toklat, there will most likely be some modifications in the snowshoeing tour program to incorporate Toklat in the future, perhaps in the winter of 2005–06. For information or program reservations, or to visit ACES, stop by the Hallam Lake center at 100 Puppy Smith St., Aspen, CO 81611; (970) 925-5756; www.aspennature.org.

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down enough for comfortable walking. There is no set admission fee, just a very modest suggested donation, to enjoy the ACES complex, which is open weekdays between 9:00 A.M. and 4:30 P.M. It is worth a visit, but you don’t have to go near the place to participate in Fresh Tracks, a winterlong series of daily guided snowshoe walks atop Aspen Mountain, high on Snowmass and at Ashcroft. They are not difficult, modestly paced, and an ideal introduction for people who have never tried snowshoeing. Children eight years and older are welcome. These programs are also enlightening even for experienced snowshoers. The thrill of a panoramic view from atop Ajax, far from the madding downhill crowd, a quick lesson on identifying animal tracks in the snow, or a glimpse at Aspen’s mining heritage from above can convert a skeptic into a snowshoer in just 2 hours. At this writing, ACES naturalist tours are offered daily from mid-December until early to mid-April, beginning at 10:00 A.M. at Aspen Mountain and Snowmass and at 10:30 A.M. at Ashcroft. They are packed with information about the natural environment and human impact on it. The Aspen Mountain tour is a loop from the top of the gondola. At Snowmass, guides use a loop trail cut and marked for snowshoeing from the top of Two Creeks lift. The fee at the Alpine areas includes the lift ride, use of snowshoes, snack, and, best of all, a leisurely, 2-hour tour led by a naturalist knowledgeable about the winter environment, mountain ecology, mining history, and geological history of the area. Reservations are not required. Check for meeting time and place with ACES and/or at the Aspen Mountain or Two Creek Ski School desks. The 4-hour tour exploring the ecology and history of Castle Creek Valley is offered daily at the ghost town of Ashcroft. The fee includes equipment, trail pass, and lunch at the Pine Creek Cookhouse. Reservations are required; call (970) 925-5756 or (970) 925-1971. At

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ACES guide talks about the history, geology, plants, and wildlife of the Aspen area. (Photo by Claire Walter)

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Aspen and Snowmass Trail 97 SMUGGLER MOUNTAIN RD. ◆ Challenging Distance • 1.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 7,900 feet Highest elevation • 9,200 feet Elevation difference • 1,300 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #127, Aspen, Independence Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Aspen

This steep road is a year-round favorite climb of legions of Aspen fitness buffs who bike, hike, powerwalk, and run it, depending on their tastes and level of fitness—and snowshoe or even ski it when snow conditions permit. It is a south-facing trail, so it often melts off quickly, but no other trail in town can provide so much aerobic benefit in so little time. The views are pretty good too. To reach Smuggler Mountain Rd. (Forest Service Road 131), drive east on Main St. and turn left (north) onto Mill St. After about 0.25 mile, cross a bridge and turn right onto Gibson St. Bear left at the fork onto South Ave. and

then turn right onto Park Circle. After a few hundred feet, you will come to Smuggler Rd. (Forest Service Road 131) on the left. This wide road offers no technical or route-finding challenges. Its steep and steady grade is what makes it demanding. The elevation gain comes in the first 1.5 miles of constant switchbacks. Each one represents an uphill accomplishment as well as providing a different view of town, Aspen Mountain, and beyond. A trail at the crest, before the road circles behind the mountain, offers a viewing platform with especially wonderful scenes of town and surrounding mountains. This makes a good turnaround spot. If You Want a Longer Hike. The road continues for 3.5 miles and 1,500 vertical feet, including some additional steep sections, toward Warren Lakes and the Benedict Hut. This hut, named after the late Fritz Benedict, the 10th Mountain Division Hut System founder, is practically a holy place for fans of this extraordinary system of backcountry lodges (see page 192).

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● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None for the first 4 miles; low thereafter Starting elevation • 11,212 feet Highest elevation • 11,460 feet Elevation difference • 248 feet, plus several substantial ascents and descents Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #127, Aspen, Independence Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Aspen

This ridge, called Richmond Hill on some maps, stretches south from the top of Aspen Mountain’s Silver Queen Gondola, and you do need to purchase a “foot pass” to ride up and down on the lift. In surprisingly few steps, the route takes you from a highly developed Alpine ski area to a scenic backcountry wonderland. Circle around the gondola terminal to the left and take a short footpath behind the building leading to a gate. Pass though the gate, drop down a slight incline, and follow the wide, snowcat-packed route along the spine of the ridge. This is a numbered road, Forest Service Road 123, so don’t be surprised that you are sharing it with oversnow vehicles. On a clear day, when you are promenading along a groomed boulevard with panorama after panorama of famous peaks and entire glorious ranges on either side, you’ll feel that your lift ticket is the best bargain on earth. When it’s windy or densely clouded—not unusual in winter at 11,000 feet or more—no one can pay you enough to endure the unpleasant weather or frustrating lack of visibility. On those brilliant, cloudless days that often grace Colorado winters, you will see the

Sawatch and Collegiate Peaks Ranges and Independence Pass to the left (east) as you are hiking away from the gondola, the Elk Mountains toward Crested Butte straight ahead (south), and more Elk Mountains, the Maroon Creek and Castle Creek Valleys, Mt. Sopris, and eventually Hayden Peak and the Maroon Bells to the right (west). Once you have climbed the first section, you can also look behind you (north) to Aspen, set against the backdrop of Red and Smuggler Mountains. (This view is a lovely carrot dangling before the weary on the return.) Intermittent stands of trees beside the trail provide some wind shelter if you need to take a break, but they don’t interfere much with the views. The beginning of the route is a steady, gradual ascent that is itself easy to follow and easy to snowshoe. The constant high elevation escalates the difficulty rating to “moderate,” perhaps even more difficult for the unacclimatized— and a 5-mile, one-way distance is significant even for experienced snowshoers. After 0.5 mile, the gradient steepens and the road forks into a wide route to the left and a narrower one that is heavy used by snowmobilers to the right. In any case, the left option is more level and easier, offering excellent views of Independence Pass. The right fork has more up-and-down rollers but is even more spectacular. The high point of the trail is about 1.3 miles from the gondola. From then on, the route evens out and passes through large open areas before dropping down into MacFarlane Gulch. Although the trail descends into the valley to Taylor Pass/Taylor Lake Rd. (Forest Service Road 133), this really is the farthest recommended route for most people—and it is more than far enough for the majority of recreational snowshoers.

Snowshoeing

Trail 98 RICHMOND RIDGE

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Aspen and Snowmass Nordic Centers Aspen Cross-Country Center. This full-

service cross-country center is operated on Aspen’s municipal golf course west of downtown. You’ll see it just off Hwy. 82, near the intersection with snowshoe trails near the Maroon Creek Rd. The center’s flat terrain makes it a fine place for visitors from the lowlands to get acclimatized. The retail and rental shop in the lodge carries snowshoes for rent or sale. Taking a snowshoe walk on the side of the immaculately groomed skating lanes is as easy as snowshoeing gets—and for many firsttimers, the heated lodge, with locker rooms, food service, and a lounge, is also a comfort. There is direct access from the Nordic center’s trail system to the Owl Creek Trail, the high school trail system between Maroon Creek and Castle Creek, and the Marolt Property trails. The center also runs a guided, one-and-onehalf-hour beginner tour along Maroon Creek, with technique tips, plus custom tours of various lengths and degree of challenge. All tours are by appointment. For information or tour reservations, call (970) 925-2145. Ashcroft Ski Touring. Ashcroft, an old ghost town deep in the Castle Creek Valley, was proposed for Alpine ski area development when Aspen Mountain was still a far-off dream, but World War II intervened, and Aspen Mountain was started first. Still, it became a noteworthy ski area in its own right—a Nordic ski area. Established in 1971, Ashcroft Ski Touring became the first self-sustaining crosscountry ski center in a national forest, and it now welcomes snowshoers center as well. Rental equipment is available. In fact, the touring center assembled its own equipment, combining state-of-art snowshoes with bindings normally used for cross-country skiing so that rental boots can be used either for snowshoeing or skiing. For directions to Ashcroft, see the description for Castle Creek Rd. (Trail 99). From the

parking area near the ghost town, it is a short walk up the road to the King Cabin, which serves as Ashcroft Ski Touring’s day lodge and rental shop. The cabin is on the right,with the winter closure just beyond. You can get details on Ashcroft by calling (970) 925-1044; www.pinecreekcookhouse.com/ashcroft/ashcro ft.html. For those who prefer not to drive the twisting valley road or are visiting Aspen without a car, a daily shuttle operates between Aspen and Ashcroft, currently leaving Aspen at 10:00 A.M. and returning at 3:00 P.M. Call Ashcroft Ski Touring for rates and to confirm the schedule. Ashcroft, a traditional Nordic ski area, has opened most of the trail system to snowshoers who are asked to stay on skating lanes and off the classic tracks on more than 35 kilometers of marked and groomed trails. The Logan Adventure Trail, following close beside Castle Creek, is a marked but ungroomed trail for snowshoers only. It crosses a creek and climbs a bench to provide a tranquil route to the Pine Creek Cookhouse. Plan on lunch in this wonderful restaurant, rebuilt in 2004 after the original burned to the ground. It serves gourmet food in a friendly and casual atmosphere in a million-dollar setting (actually, being Greater Aspen, make that a billion-dollar setting). Snowshoers and cross-country skiers can also take a guided evening tour to this restaurant, surely one of the finest excursions in Colorado. This merry procession of serious diners who are convinced that they are already working off the dinner they are about to enjoy leaves from King Cabin. Miners’ lamps or perhaps moonlight illuminate the Flynn Trail. Skiing is faster, but snowshoeing is permitted too. A sleigh also makes the trip on the road for those who prefer horsepower to their own power. Reservations are required; call (970) 925-1044. For more information, go to www.pinecreekcookhouse.com. ACES’ (see pages 186–187) 4-hour naturalist tours, which are based out of the touring

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Guided Tours In addition to tours put on by ACES (see pages 186–187) and the area’s cross-country centers at Ashcroft and Snowmass (see pages 190 and 199), the current boom in commercial snowshoe tours echoes the silver boom of the late nineteenth century. Some are run by longestablished outfitters with expertise in many outdoor adventures; others are low-key enterprises established by men and women who love to explore the backcountry on snowshoes. Call to check fees and schedules or to make reservations. Keep in mind that as snowshoeing continues to grow in popularity, more snowshoe guides will probably surface in Aspen, a very service-oriented resort. At this writing, local outfitters with guided snowshoe trips include: Aspen Alpine Guides. This mountain guide service schedules daily half- and full-day tours in the Aspen custom fitness tours, and overnight hut tours via snowshoes. Half-day tours are 4–7 miles in length and explore such

Sun Dog Athletics. Snowshoer, trainer, and

elite snowshoe racing team member Erik Skarvan specializes in a variety of customized snowshoeing experiences primarily for small groups and individuals, with the latest in snowshoes and poles included. Options range from a gentle one-hour ramble along Maroon Creek for the first-time snowshoers to a real workout on Hunter Creek Valley, “the sunny side of Aspen Mountain” and other locations, such as Richmond Ridge, Maroon Creek, Owl Creek, the Snowmass Nature Trail, North Star Nature Preserve, and other routes in the area. The emphasis can be whatever the clients wish: with or without a gourmet lunch at a fine mountain restaurant, and with a focus on instruction, nature, and fitness training, or simply the services and knowledge of an experienced snowshoe guide. Skarvan’s distinctive specialties extend to snowshoe racing and training programs, either one-on-one or in group clinics. Some workshops are for women only. He also organizes the popular K9 Uphill at Snowmass (see page 196). Call (970) 925-1069; www.sundogathletics.com.

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places as Hunter Creek, Difficult Creek, Snowmass, and Buttermilk Meadows. On request for groups of four or more, private tours can be scheduled to Ashcroft, Richmond Ridge, Government Trail, and other routes. Half-day trips include the use of snowshoes, poles, and a daypack, as well as transportation to the trailhead, and snacks on all tours and lunch on full-day programs. Aspen Alpine Guides schedules trips to the Peter Estin and Harry Gates huts in the 10th Mountain Division system (see below). Based on guide and hut availability, they also do custom trips to some of the Alfred Braun Huts. Those trips include sleeping bags, liners, and food at the huts, but guests are asked to bring their own lunches. Aspen Alpine Guides, P.O. Box 659, Aspen, CO 81612; (970) 925-6618; www.aspenalpine.com.

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center and scheduled on weekdays, provide an enlightening opportunity to snowshoe at Ashcroft. The ACES tours focus on the ecology and human history of the valley. To maintain such an unspoiled environment as the far reaches of Castle Creek Valley so close to Aspen requires understanding and protection, but “unspoiled” does not equate with “untouched.” Ashcroft was settled in 1879, the same year as Aspen, and in its heyday, 2,500 people called it home. Today, the remnants of a handful of structures poke out of the snow, and nature has reclaimed much of the valley. The guide explains it all. The cost includes the use of snowshoes, the services of a guide, the Ashcroft trail pass, and lunch at the Pine Creek Cookhouse. Children eight years old and older are welcome. Reservations are required; call the touring center, at (970) 920-4093, or ACES, (970) 925-5756; www.aspennature.org.

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Aspen and Snowmass Huts 10th Mountain Division Hut Association, and Alfred Braun and Friends Huts. Aspen is the epicenter of

Colorado’s backcountry huts, which increasingly are being used by snowshoers as well as touring skiers. The 10th Mountain Division Hut Association, based in Aspen, is Colorado’s backcountry hut nerve center. It handles reservations for several hut systems. The 10th Mountain Division system, Colorado’s largest, oldest, and most famous, operates a twentyone–hut system along 350 miles of trails in the high country, roughly between 10,000 and 11,500 feet, in a circle around the Holy Cross Wilderness north of Aspen and south of Vail. The Alfred Braun and Friends Huts are in the Elk Mountains, between Aspen and Crested Butte. The latter are most popular with touring skiers, but strong snowshoers with backcountry experience have been using them too. An independent hut trip requires routefinding and navigation skills, as well as the stamina and equipment to snowshoe several miles, often with elevation gains of 1,000 feet or more, while carrying a pack. Be aware that the huts fill up fast, especially on weekends. 10th Mountain Division Hut Association members get first dibs on reservations, beginning in early April for the following season. If you are interested in doing a snowshoe hut trip, it’s best to be flexible, be available on weekdays, or book through a guide service that has reserved some hut space for its clients. (Another option, of course, is to explore some of the newer, remoter or less known huts around Colorado.) 10th Mountain Division Hut Association, 1280 Ute Ave., Ste. 21, Aspen, CO 81611; (970) 925-5775; www.huts.org.

Trail 99 CASTLE CREEK RD. ● Easy Distance • 1.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to Pine Creek Cookhouse; high beyond Starting elevation • 9,500 feet Highest elevation • 9,750 feet Elevation difference • 250 feet (to Pine Creek Cookhouse) Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #127, Aspen, Independence Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Hayden Peak

Take Hwy. 82 south from Snowmass or north from Aspen and turn south at the traffic light onto Castle Creek Rd. (Forest Service Road 102) from the roundabout, where you will see signs for Ashcroft, and follow it about 11 miles to the end of the plowed section. The parking lot is on the left, overlooking the ghost town of Ashcroft, and Ashcroft Ski-Touring is just before the winter closure.

Snowshoers snag sublime views up the Castle Creek Valley toward Ashcroft. This area, once slated for Alpine skiing development, is a backcountry paradise near Aspen. (Photo by Claire Walter)

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Use of the first stretch of the unplowed portion of the road beyond King Cabin is safe, straightforward, and free of charge. The road skirts the left bank of Castle Creek, which bisects this beautiful and pristine valley, hemmed in by 13,000-foot peaks. Dramatic rock walls, stands of conifers, and aspen groves dapple the landscape. As you snowshoe south on the road, you will very likely be sharing the route with some cross-country skiers, with backpack-laden folks heading toward the Alfred Braun Hut system, with snowmobiles hauling supplies to the Pine Creek Cookhouse, and with skiers and horsedrawn sleighs laden with passengers planning to lunch there. (See restaurant description in Ashcroft Ski Touring section, page 190) Beyond the Pine Creek Cookhouse are three serious slide areas (both the road and vulnerable Nordic trails are closed when there is avalanche danger), so don’t even consider continuing by detouring around the closures, no matter how tempting it looks, unless avalanche risk is reported to be favorable.

■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 7.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,020 feet (at Tiehack base) Highest elevation • 8,560 feet Elevation difference • 540 feet (but many additional ascents and descents) Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #127, Aspen, Independence Pass; Trails Illustrated #128, Maroon Bells, Redstone, Marble; USGS 7.5-Minute, Highland Peak, Aspen

This scenic trail between Buttermilk and Snowmass can be done in either direction, but the climbs are steeper from the Snowmass (west) end. You will closely parallel Owl Creek Rd., which is the vehicular “back way” between Aspen and Snowmass. There are two access

One of the Owl Creek trails begins at the Buttermilk ski area, where snowshoers and cross-country skiers must cross Alpine trails. Signs keep them on track. (Photo by Claire Walter)

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Trail 100 OWL CREEK TRAIL

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Aspen and Snowmass points from the east, which is closer to Aspen and the direction of this description. A fourwheel-drive vehicle is useful to West Buttermilk Rd. trailhead, but you can also drive or take a bus to the Tiehack base or take the bus to the Aspen Recreation Center and walk across the Maroon Creek bridge to Tiehack (no buses go directly to Tiehack). Another option, which eliminates the very easternmost section, is to snowshoe up the edge of a Main Buttermilk ski trail and bear right onto the Owl Creek Trail. Access to the western trailhead is from the Two Creeks base area or from the Snowmass Touring Center. Both are also reachable by bus, via Twin Pine and Sinclair Divide. Because it is popular with Nordic skiers, be especially respectful and stay at the side of the trail. The route is not particularly challenging, but it is long, and there is no bailout in the middle. The route from Tiehack ascends consistently to Main Buttermilk and offers views north toward the Roaring Fork Valley. Because it also is a downhill ski trail with traffic coming toward you, keep well to the side. After crossing the main part of the ski area, the trail goes through aspen woods before joining West Buttermilk Rd., which you cross shortly after reaching the route’s highest point. From then on, it is a long but beautiful slog through alternating forest and open areas. You will occasionally hear aircraft traffic in and out of Sardy Field in the Roaring Fork Valley below. When you have come out of the woods, crossed a drive called Ross’s Rd., and reached a picnic table, you will be at the halfway point. Owl Creek Trail passes a cabin and then crosses Sinclair Divide at 8,345 feet. Continue toward Snowmass, being alert for skiers hurtling down the Flying Kilometer as you approach the resort. Either end your hike at Two Creeks or continue to the Snowmass Touring Center, which includes descents of some more fairly steep sections. Shuttle buses serve both.

Alpine Ski Areas Up with (Snowshoeing) People. Aspen’s

lemmings aren’t rushing to cliffs. They are snowshoe dashing up ski slopes—fast. On any given winter day, 300 or more of these fleet, fit athletes (or trying-to-become fleet, fit athletes) cruise up Buttermilk for a little aerobic activity. The real hardcore make their way up Aspen Mountain and Aspen Highlands, early enough to download when the gondola respective areas’ lifts starts running. At sprawling Snowmass, there is more latitude for snowshoers— and what they all amount to is that for many locals, snowshoeing is not a casual meander but rather an opportunity to train and test themselves. Dogs are prohibited on ski trails. Ski Area Snowshoeing Policies Aspen Mountain. Uphillers must make the 3,267-foot ascent to reach the top of the gondola by 9:00 A.M. Snowshoers must download on the gondola. The ride is free, but downloaders must sign a release form, and snowshoers are prohibited from using the ski trails once the lifts start running for regular skier traffic. Aspen Highlands. Snowshoers must reach

the Merry-Go-Round Restaurant by 9:00 A.M. in order to be permitted to continue to the 11,675-foot Loge Peak summit, a total climb of 3,635 vertical feet. Hiking up to midmountain along the edges of any of the ski trails is permitted throughout the day. Snowshoers have the option of descending on the ski trails too, with downloading on the Exhibition chairlift optional and free, but downloaders must sign a release form. Dogs are not allowed at Aspen Highlands.

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Snowmass. Upward-bound snowshoers are

permitted on all trails at all times, but they are asked to keep to the edges of the trails. They may bring leashed dogs with them as long as they clean up after their pets. Snowshoers may ride up the Burlingame or Two Creeks lift with the purchase of a foot passenger ticket, or download on any lift free of charge after signing a release form. A pleasant nature trail at the top of the Two Creeks trail system is used by ACES tours and also by independent snowshoers (see Trail 106 , page 201). In addition to downtown shops, rental snowshoes are available at Pro Mountain Sports; at the bases of the lifts of Aspen Highlands Ski Shop, Buttermilk Sports, and Two Creeks at Snowmass Ski Shop; as well as at the Snowmass Touring Center and Aspen Cross-Country Center. Races If a serious Alpine area ascent looks like a good workout, and you want to get the knack of doing it right, or if you are already contemplating training for a snowshoe race, check out Sun Dog Athletics’ snowshoe fitness training workshops, directed by snowshoe racing ace Erik Skarvan (see page 191). General fitness or race-specific training is available on a onetime or ongoing basis. For rates, schedules, and other details, call (970) 925-1069.

All that training—whether with Skarvan, another trainer, or independently—comes into play during the uphill snowshoe races that are held throughout the valley. The inspiration for the daddy of all snowshoe ascent competitions is America’s Uphill, dedicated to a local mountaineer named Fritz Stammberger, who disappeared on a Himalayan expedition in 1976. His training method involved running up 3,267vertical-foot Aspen Mountain with a pair of heavy skis over his shoulder in less than an hour to stay in condition. Now, in addition to America’s Uphill, a number of several other regular snowshoeing events with history behind them are on the Aspen calendar, including:

Snowshoeing

asked to follow a designated snowshoe route along the edge of one of the ski trails, starting up the Government and Columbine Trail from the Main Buttermilk base. Downloading on the Summit Express chair is free all day (that is, from 8:45 A.M. to 3:45 P.M.). In addition, snowshoers using the Owl Creek Trail may cross the ski slopes along a well-marked route from the Tiehack base. Dogs are prohibited at Buttermilk.

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Buttermilk. Uphill-bound snowshoers are

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acronym for Buttermilk, Aspen, Snowmass, and Highlands, includes races on each of the four mountains organized by the City of Aspen Recreation Department and Carmichael Training Systems. The man and woman with the lowest cumulative time wins. In few other places would so grueling a competition be deluged with entries as in the sports-crazy Roaring Fork Valley. The first race, held during the first part of January, is the Highlands Uphill, whose enduro division competitors ascend from the ski area base to the top of the Olympic Bowl, then ski or snowboard down the double-black Deception to Upper Robinson’s and the finish line at the Merry-GoRound. For the uphill, racers must use track skis, telemark or randonee equipment, or snowshoes. Tough as this sounds, it is technically easier than the later Inferno, which involves ascending Highlands Ridge to the 12,392-foot summit and then skiing or snowboarding down. The races on Buttermilk, Aspen Mountain, and Snowmass have their own character and challenges. For more information on the power training series or the Highlands Uphill, go to www.aspenrecreation.com. For more information on the BASH series, go to www.aspenrecreation.org.

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Aspen and Snowmass Winterskol Buttermilk Uphill. During this annual winter festival held in mid-January, another uphill race takes place on Buttermilk. For details, call the Aspen Chamber Resort Association at (970) 925-1940 or go to www.aspenchamber.org.

contact the Ute Mountaineer at (970) 9252849 or www.utemountaineer.com. Mother of All Ascensions, Snowmass.

Up One from the Heart. A Valentine’s Day fund-raising race on Buttermilk Mountain; call the Aspen Chamber Resort Association, (970) 925-1940, or www.aspenchamber.com.

This cleverly named race is normally held late in February around Mardi Gras. Competitors in this morning event climb from the Snowmass Mall to the High Alpine Restaurant. Further information is available from the Snowmass Village Resort Association at (970) 923-2000 or www.snowmassvillage.com.

Mardi Gras. Snowshoe race up Snowmass,

K9 Uphill. Snowshoers and their dogs (or

held on the appropriate Tuesday, usually in early to mid-February. More information is available from the Snowmass Village Resort Association at (970) 923-2000; www.snowmassvillage.com.

teams of dogs) race up Buttermilk after the area has shut down for the season. Local snowshoer racers and their dogs make for a rowdy, energetic field that is equal part competition and a rowdy social event. Joyful barking fills the air. For more information, call Sun Dog Athletics at (970) 925-1069 or www.sundog athletics.com.

America’s Uphill. Held the third Saturday in March, the Roaring Fork valley’s oldest and most serious uphill race, in which competitors use snowshoes or cross-country skis, to race to the top of Aspen Mountain via Spar Gulch. The 1998 winner was a snowshoer who did the 3,267 vertical feet in 42 minutes and 58 seconds, a record that still stands at this writing. To put this achievement into perspective, consider that the gondola ascends the same distance in 15 minutes. For details or to register,

Snowshoeing getaways abound in the Aspen area. (Courtesy of Aspen Chamber Resort Association)

High Country Duathlon. First held in

1997, this March race at the Aspen CrossCountry Center is a 10-kilometer, cross-country freestyle ski leg followed by 5 kilometers on snowshoes. It’s not an uphill, but it is a competition in which snowshoes are key. For details, contact the Aspen Cross-Country Center at (970) 925-2145.

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● Easy

● ◆ Easy at the campground portion of

Distance • 3.2 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,010 feet Highest elevation • 8,030 feet Elevation difference • 20 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • None required

the trail; challenging thereafter Distance • 1.8 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low on the lower part of the trail; high beyond the rock cliffs Starting elevation • 8,160 feet Highest elevation • 9,300 feet Elevation difference • 1,140 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #127, Aspen, Independence Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, New York Peak

Take Main St. (Hwy. 82) east to the North Star Nature Preserve’s parking area on the right side of the road. This oblong trail loops along the highway on the north and the Roaring Fork River on the south, accessing riparian land and lovely woods. The 175-acre preserve also contains stands of aspen, an old quarry, and a few very modest ups and downs. This easy trail, which never veers too far from the road, is popular with beginning snowshoers, and naturalist guides often use it. If You Want a Longer Hike. The Benedict Trail leads toward the Aspen Club property from the west end of the North Star Nature Preserve loop. Take it along some gentle bends if you like. There is one sharp turn to the left, and a hairpin to the right, then it enters a potential avalanche area that should be avoided.

Access to the challenging portion of this route is via the Difficult Campground, which itself provides an easy and accessible snowshoeing venue. The campground is just off Hwy. 82, 3 miles southeast of Aspen. From the parking area, snowshoe down the road south to the gated campground entrance, then continue 0.5 mile to the campground fee station. This first section is very easy, and beginners can either snowshoe to the campground and return or walk around to explore the flat area where tents and RVs nest in the summer. They can also follow the creekbed or the lowest portion of the summer route until it steepens and the going gets rough. Experienced and strong snowshoers use the campground as a launching platform for a challenging ascent that makes it an aptly named trail for those who go beyond the gentle initial portion. The steeper, considerably more challenging trek continues from the day use area on the right before the campground. Look for the trailhead information board, then cross the bridge over the Roaring Fork River and bear right across a flat, exposed area where sagebrush and scrub oak poke out of the snow

Snowshoeing

Trail 102 DIFFICULT CREEK TRAIL

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Aspen and Snowmass to Difficult Creek and the actual start of Difficult Creek Trail (Forest Service Trail #2196). It is steep and narrow, and it makes you grateful for the snowshoes’ gripping talons. The trail climbs quickly through a dense conifer forest that has an almost magical quality. There is real avalanche danger when the route begins slicing past rock cliffs, and only the foolhardy would think to continue.

Trail 103 INDEPENDENCE PASS RD. ● ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 5.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to Lincoln Creek Rd., but be aware of rockfalls on the beginning of the route Starting elevation • 8,600 feet Highest elevation • 9,600 feet Elevation difference • 1,000 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #127, Aspen, Independence Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, New York Peak, Thimble Rock

Every autumn, when the snows begin in the high country, Hwy. 82 is closed for the season at mile marker 47, just 5 miles southeast of Aspen. This takes the Independence Pass Rd. out of the hands of motor vehicle operators and puts it under the feet of recreational users. The first 5.5 miles are generally safe for winter travel, and snowshoers share it with cross-country skiers, snowmobilers, and dogs and their humans. Under the snow is pavement, so the wide, flat road can accommodate many users, especially if they are respectful of each other. The out-and-back route translates into an 11-mile round-trip, which is a sprint for a snowmobiler, but it can feel like a marathon to a snowshoer, so go as far as you feel comfortable and then return.

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From the road closure, head generally east. The ascent over the first couple of miles is so easy as to be virtually imperceptible, but then, the grade begins to steepen. Just before mile marker 49, the road slices into the hillside as it skirts a very narrow, gorgelike section of the valley. The route becomes wider as you pass the Weller Campground, and then it narrows again and follows the river’s curves. Dramatic rock walls rise directly from the road on the left (north). Another mile takes you to the Grottos, a popular summer attraction of huge granite formations and river-cut caves. Explore this area carefully on snowshoes and perhaps even find a good spot for a break or a picnic. If You Want a Longer Hike. If you decide

to continue up the road (remembering that you have to save some energy for the return), Lincoln Creek Rd. on the right, just beyond mile marker 51, is a reasonable turnaround for fast and fit snowshoers.

Snowmass has traditionally been a lower-key and more family-friendly resort than glamorous Aspen. Slopeside condos, a pleasant walk-through mall, and low-level nightlife have characterized the resort. But all that has been rapidly changing. Trophy homes have sprouted at the Alpine ski area’s newest lift base, called Two Creeks, on hillsides and ridge tops, along once-isolated streams and on old grazing land. The Snowmass Club, which until recently maintained the illusion of open space, is also being redeveloped, and the golf course that in winter becomes the Snowmass Touring Center has lost its sense of visual openness. Still, with doorstep recreational opportunities and a lower-key après-snowsports scene, it remains a good bet for a winter getaway for snowshoeing. For tourist information, contact the Snowmass Village Resort Association, P.O. Box 5566, 38 Village Mall, Snowmass Village, CO 81615; (800) SNOWMASS or (970) 923-2000; www.snowmassvillage.com. Nordic Center Snowmass Cross-Country Center.

The golf-course snowshoeing available at the Snowmass Club is just a tad more difficult than the Aspen Cross-Country Center because it is hillier. The lodge, located at 8,300 feet, is in the center of the lower trail system on and near the golf course. The trail system is composed of the 2.2-mile Lower Sundance Loop and the 1.5-mile Upper Sundance Loop, which hairpins around the Anderson Ranch Art Center. There are also connections to the Owl Creek Trail (Trail 100), Gracie’s Trail, and Snowmass Village via Village Way, 1.2 miles up the mountainside. Snowshoers are welcome on the skating lanes but are asked to stay along the outside edge of the groomed trail. In addition to renting snowshoes and giving tips on using them, the center offers guided snowshoe tours on request. For more information, call (970) 923-3148.

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Aspen and Snowmass Trail 104 DITCH TRAIL ● Easy Distance • 2 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,600 feet Lowest elevation • 8,400 feet Elevation difference • 200 feet (ascend on the return) Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #128, Maroon Bells, Redstone, Marble; USGS 7.5Minute, Highland Peak

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To reach this mellow and lovely trail, which follows an irrigation ditch, walk or take a bus to the Top of the Village condominiums at the uppermost part of Snowmelt Rd. and continue around the buildings. Make two right turns onto Sleigh Ride Rd. and then onto the Ditch Trail. It crosses under the Campground chairlift and four steep Alpine ski runs, so use caution while crossing, because skiers descend quickly. As an alternative, you can access the Ditch Trail from the parking area near Krabloonik. As soon as you are out of sight and earshot of the ski area, you feel as if you are really in the distant outback. Animal tracks abound, and the trail offers lovely views of the Snowmass Creek Valley and Mt. Daly. The East Snowmass Creek Trail junction marker is a good place to turn around for the mild ascent back to the resort.

Trail 105 SNOWMASS NATURE TRAIL ● Easy Distance • 2 miles Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,400 Highest elevation • 8,600 Elevation difference • 200 feet Dogs • No Snowmobiles • No Maps • None required

Drive to the far end of the parking lot across from the Wildwood Condominiums lowest parking lot of the upper section of Snowmass Village’s tiered parking lots (which sounds complicated but is clear when you see the layout). A green sign marks access to the nature trail. Walk down a few wooden steps and put on your snowshoes. Bear hard left to the narrow trail that parallels Snowmelt Rd., the main street along Snowmass Village. Continue walking through the woods to a clearing, which is a popular summer picnic spot. Continue past this meadow and re-enter the woods. When the trail steepens, you are at the intersection with Sleigh Ride Rd. You can snowshoe along this road to return to the upper section of Snowmass Village or retrace your route.

CENTRAL Aspen and Snowmass

● Easy Distance • 1 mile (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,970 feet Highest elevation • 10,040 feet Elevation difference • 70 feet Dogs • No Snowmobiles • No Maps • None required

This is the sweet trail selected for the ACES naturalist tour (see pages 186–187). To snowshoe it without the interpretation, buy a foot passenger ticket, which provides access to the easy nature trail via the Snowmass ski area’s Two Creeks high-speed chairlift. Free shuttle buses from Aspen and Snowmass drop guests off directly at the Two Creeks base. Snowshoers carry, rather than wear, their snowshoes while riding the lift, which attendants slow down for ease of mounting and dismounting. Once at the top of the lift unloading area, look for the large trail sign that marks the entrance to the snowshoeing trail, consisting of two loops with a ski trail between them. It is easy to follow the route, which is marked with frequent yellow round Atlas Snow-Shoe Trail signs affixed to trees.

Near the beginning of the Rabbit Run trail, on the left, is the flat snow-covered surface of a small frozen pond, which is a sunny open area fringed by trees. From then on, the narrow trail winds through the mostly lodgepole forest that is so dense that it feels remote and not surrounded by the ski trails. As you walk through the woods, look for a few lodgepoletall aspens surrounded by the pine trees. There are small ascents and descents as the route winds through the trees. At about the halfway point, the trail comes out of the woods along the Turkey Trot downhill ski trail. It too is gentle, but look to the right to make sure no one is skiing directly at you. Cross Turkey Trot for a short ascent along the left side of the ski trail. The marked entrance to the second loop is on your left. It comes back out of the trees across from the top station of the Two Creeks lift. Take your snowshoes off to ride down on the lift— or stop at the Café Suzanne for a bite to eat before heading down the mountain again.

Snowshoeing

Trail 106 RABBIT RUN SNOWSHOE TRAIL

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soothing waters have attracted visitors for more than a century and Ute Indians long before that. Hemmed in by high hills at the confluence of the Colorado and Roaring Fork Rivers, the town is at once scenic and accessible. Bisected by both the railroad and Interstate 70, it feels like something of a hub. The famous Hot Springs Pool is the world’s largest naturally springfed outdoor pool complex, and its plumes of sulfuric steam serve as a visible and olfactory winter landmark for locals and travelers alike. One of the great benefits of snowshoeing around Glenwood is the pleasure of soaking in the pool afterward. The low-key community offers a lively little downtown and ample, economical accommodations. One of the things that makes Glenwood Springs such a pleasant place to stay is its 5,736-foot elevation, which is not much higher than Denver. This means a bit of a commute to snow-covered trails, but it’s worth it for the relatively benign climate. Sunlight Mountain Resort, a midsize ski area just 10 miles from town, offers miles of free snowshoeing and cross-country skiing trails. Carbondale, located up-valley between Glenwood Springs and Aspen, is the gateway to McClure Pass, which also offers outstanding snow trails. Contact the Glenwood Springs Chamber Resort Association, 1102 Grand Ave., Glenwood Springs, CO 81601; (888) 4-GLENWOOD for accommodations reservations or (970) 945-6589 for information; www.glenwoodchamber.com. GETTING THERE Take Interstate 70 west from Denver or east from Grand Junction.

Get off at Exit 116 (Glenwood Springs) and tur n right at the exit ramp, right again at the first set of traffic lights just after the exit ramp, and right once more at the next light, crossing the high bridge into downtown Glenwood Springs. In addition to lodgings in town and along CO Hwy. 82, many motels are located in W est Glenwood at Exit 114. Glenwood Springs is 160 miles from Denver and 85 miles from Grand Junction. For the Sunlight Mountain Resort, continue south on Hwy. 82 for another 2 miles from downtown and turn right (west), cross over the bridge and turn left at the first intersection and right at the second one to the resor t access road (also marked as Gar field County Road 117). For Carbondale and McClure Pass, stay on Hwy. 82 for 7 miles and tur n right (south) onto CO Hwy. 133.

This backcountry cabin partway up the Babbish Gulch Trail can be rented for overnight stays. It is close enough to the trailhead to be a comfortable first-time experience. Full-moon nights and weekends are booked far in advance, but midweek stays are easier to reserve. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Snowshoeing

GLENWOOD SPRINGS IS AN HISTORIC SPA resort whose healing and

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Glenwood Springs and Carbondale Alpine Ski Area Sunlight Mountain Resort This midsize Alpine area is well known among Colorado skiers for low prices and an informal, old-fashioned ambience. It is alsothe gateway to 29 kilometers (18 miles) of free trails for snowshoeing and Nordic skiing. From a trailhead directly at the parking lot, trails wend their beautiful way up Babbish Gulch through a glorious aspen and conifer forest into a high valley between Sunlight Mountain and 10,300foot Williams Peak. Snowshoe rentals are available at the base area. Only 2 miles up the main trail at 8,400 feet, in what was once the mining town of Sunlight (from which the ski area took its name), a rustic backcountry cabin offers a fine warm-up spot furnished with a woodstove and bunks. Overnights are usually booked well in advance on weekends, but weeknights are generally open. It’s a great introduction to the hut experience without a really demanding trek in. Another shelter lies high up on the trail system, at 8,960 feet. Babbish Gulch is the setting for the annual Day of Infamy Snowshoe Race (see page 206), a winter kick-off tradition. For cabin reservations or more information on the area’s Nordic and snowshoeing trails, contact Sunlight Mountain Resort, 10901 Road 117, Glenwood Springs, CO 81601; (800) 445-7931 or (970) 945-7491; www.sunlightmtn.com.

Trail 107 PANORAMA TRAIL ● Easy Distance • 0.3 mile (loop), 0.75 mile (loop), and 1 mile (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 7,100 feet Lowest elevation • 7,000 feet Elevation difference • 100 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • None required for short loop trails; nature trail map available

Glenwood Caverns, a long-ago tourist attraction historically known as Fairy Cave, reopened in 1999 for cave tours after being closed for 82 years. The accessible portion of this huge labyrinth of limestone caves with their magical formations is high above Glenwood Canyon and the Colorado River. Initially, access to the cave entrance was via shuttle van up a twisting access road. Three years after the cave reopened as a summer attraction, the Iron Mountain Tramway, a high-tech European gondola lift, was constructed directly from Glenwood Springs. Among other benefits, the tram made winter operations practical. A warm and welcoming building, which at a ski area would be called a day lodge, is located at the top of the lift. Just outside are a plaza area and two nature loop trails available for easy snowshoeing, and inexpensive rentals of top-quality snowshoes are available in the gift shop. But don’t just go for the snowshoeing. Visit the caverns too; remember the cave temperature— 52 degrees—remains consistent year-round.

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Iron Mountain sustains both oak brush and piñon pine, and the Panorama Trail is a summer nature trail that skirts woods composed of these two types of vegetation. It’s divided into two loops, one a mere 0.3 mile and the other 0.75 mile. The former is almost flat. The latter drops 100 vertical feet from the plaza, with a mostly gentle ascent on the return and just one short, slightly steeper section. The two loops can be combined into a still-easy 1-miler. Because these trails are on the north and northwest sides of Iron Mountain, they hold the snow. Plans are underway to expand the winter-accessible trail network, perhaps as early as the winter of 2004–05. For information on operating hours, rates, and the extent of the trail system, call (800) 530-1635 or (970) 945-4228, or go to www.glenwoodcaverns.com. If You Want a Longer Hike. Glenwood

Caverns plows about half of the 15-foot width of the 3-mile access road winding around the back of the mountain from the edge of town to the plaza area, and snowmobilers use the other half to reach adjacent winter trails on the White River Plateau. The route is therefore packed but not groomed. As long as you don’t mind sharing it with occasional vehicles, the access road is a fine snowshoeing option. Some locals like to ride the lift up and walk down the road as a leg-stretcher, while others like the aerobic benefit of snowhsoeing up and riding down. There is also nothing to stop anyone from snowshoeing both up 1,400 vertical feet and back down. It is technically easy and takes no route-finding skill at all, but it is still a significant elevation gain. The reward for the ascent is the chance to use a heated restroom, warm up indoors, and buy something to eat or drink before heading downhill.

■ ◆ Moderate to cabin; challenging to top of trail system Distance • 2 miles (one way, to cabin); varies to top of trail system (shortest route is 4.8 miles one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 7,885 feet Highest elevation • 8,400 feet (cabin); 9,600 feet (top of trail system) Elevation difference • 515 feet (cabin); 1,715 feet (top of trail system) Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #123, Flattops Southeast, Glenwood Canyon; USGS 7.5-Minute, Cattle Creek

Access Babbish Gulch Trail at the Four Mile marker from the parking lot, 2 miles above the ski area on the 300 Road. (If the lot is full, you can start lower in the valley at the ski area, which has ample parking.) The main trail heads basically to the south, winding slightly through a beautiful forest, with intermittent

Snowshoeing through the aspens up Babbish Gulch Trail, with convenient access from the Sunlight Mountain Resort base area. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Snowshoeing

Trail 108 BABBISH GULCH

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Glenwood Springs and Carbondale views across the valley. Because the valley flares out and is wide at the bottom, a sense of perspective and expansiveness greets you every time you look down toward it. Conifers are sprinkled among the aspens, but it’s the aspens you’ll remember. You can take small side trails or bushwhack through well-spaced trees. In many sections, it’s easy to do without getting lost by paralleling the trail. Set in a large clearing, the cabin (see page 204) makes a good turnaround point for a casual hike. If You Want a Longer Hike. Continue south, past the cabin. The 29-kilometer trail system features both groomed, trackset trails and marked by ungroomed trails for snowshoeing and Nordic skiing, and snowshoers are permitted on the skating lanes and on the ungroomed routes. Most steep parts of Sunlight’s trail system are on the lower parts of the mountain, after which the trails fan out more gently. Trails reach to 9,600 feet, and the upper sections feature a thinner forest and open meadows with fine views into the Crystal River Valley and the surrounding mountains, as well as a warming shelter 5 miles and more than 1,000 vertical feet from the trailhead.

Race Day of Infamy Snowshoe Race. Held on a Sunday close to December 7, Pearl Harbor Day, this 8-kilometer (4.95-mile) race is a wonderful season opener. It is long enough to be challenging but not so grueling that it is too much for in-shape participants so soon after Thanksgiving. The race starts at the cabin in Babbish Gulch and each year follows a slightly different route along the upper trails. The race is organized into men’s and women’s competitive and sport categories. For more information or to register, contact Summit Canyon Mountaineering, 732 Grand Ave., Glenwood Springs, CO 81601; (800) 360-6994 or (970) 945-6994.

Trail 109 AVALANCHE CREEK RD. ● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Beginning elevation • 6,760 feet Highest elevation • 7,400 feet Elevation difference • 640 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #128, Maroon Bells, Redstone, Marble; USGS 7.5Minute, Mt. Sopris, Redstone

This route offers a rare combination for Colorado—scenic, not too challenging, relatively low altitude and yet good snow cover during most winters. From Carbondale, take CO 133 south past Redstone. After 12.5 miles, pull over at the Avalanche Creek sign on the left (east), at the confluence of Avalanche Creek and the Crystal River. From the parking area on the side of the highway, walk around the gate and start snowshoeing up the campground road (Forest Service Road 310), soon passing a small mine on your left. The first portion of this unpaved, uplowed road, which heads southeast through the mixed forest to the Avalanche Campground, is wide, long, and steady. Winter users occasionally spot elk or even a bighorn sheep herd, which is the reason that both snowmobiles and dogs are prohibited on this route, which as a summer vehicle road looks as if it could accommodate multiple use. The road follows a pretty valley flanked by steep slopes and then widens into a generous basin. The lower slopes of Mt. Sopris are on your left, but you can’t see the summit of this huge 12,953-foot mountain from the route. Various species of bushes, scrub trees, and tall conifers line the route but rarely block the views.

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If You Want a Longer Hike. A trail from the campground leads 11 more miles into the Maroon Bells–Snowmass Wilderness, with Avalanche Lake as the destination of many a summer hiker or backpacker. You can take the trail a little way beyond the Avalanche Creek Campground, but after that, you are then getting into the serious backcountry and some potentially hazardous areas.

● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 2.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low for 2.5 miles; higher thereafter Beginning elevation • 8,763 feet Highest elevation • 9,338 feet Elevation difference • 575 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #128, Maroon Bells, Redstone, Marble; USGS 7.5Minute, Placita, Chair Mountain

From Carbondale, drive 22 miles south on Hwy. 133 to the McClure Pass summit and park on the left (south) side of the highway. Ragged Mountain Rd. (Forest Service Road 898), an old logging road just off the top of the pass, gets heavy winter use, especially on weekends, so be alert for skier traffic, especially fast-moving skiers on their return to the trailhead. Because it is a road, this route is easy to follow, but some big bends provide variety to its essentially southward direction. If it’s views you want, it’s views you’ll get on clear days. The changes in the road’s course mean that, from different places, you can see the Crystal River Valley, Mt. Sopris, the Elk Mountains, Chair Mountain, and the peaks of the Raggeds Wilderness. From the winter trailhead, start hiking toward the south. Soon the road makes a gentle jog to the southwest. The climb is steady but generally not too steep. About 1.2 miles from the trailhead, the route makes an abrupt left turn to head southeast, and then, after about 0.75 mile, a second left turn that sends the compass needle around again as you head northeast. The road also gets steeper here and

Snowshoeing

The road passes the Janeway Campground, jogs into a sharp bend, and gentles again, following the stream all the way up to the Avalanche Campground. The middle section of the trail is the steepest part, after which you also have the option of following a small ski trail that veers off to the right rather than staying on the road. Return the way you came. Another out-and-back option of similar length and elevation gain—a companion route, really—presents itself at the fork about twothirds of the way down the road. Bear left onto Bulldog Rd. (Forest Service Road 310A), which follows Bulldog Creek and ends at an old mine that is just outside the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness boundary.

Trail 110 RAGGED MOUNTAIN RD./ McCLURE PASS

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Glenwood Springs and Carbondale passes a couple of gates. Most people turn around at about 2.5 miles, at or near the intersection with the Ragged Mountain Trail to return by the same route. If You Want a Longer Hike. If you do continue, be sure to stay on the road, because after the next right turn, there are some avalanche areas above to the left. The road ends about 1.5 miles after the Ragged Mountain Trail.

Nordic Center Ute Meadows Nordic Center.

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This lovely cross-country and snowshoeing center in the Crystal River Valley has been one of Colorado’s hidden treasures that actually welcomes guests to bring their dogs—one of the few Nordic centers to permit that. Snowshoers are permitted on the skating lanes of all 15 kilometers of cross-country trails, as well as on three dedicated snowshoe trails. Rapid Creek is a short, gentle trail on the valley floor. Lily Lake Trail is a loop through aspen forests and riparian areas. The Camp Genter Loop, developed for the 2003-04 season, is a challenging route up a mountainside. The center has a warming lodge, a snack bar, and snowshoe rentals. To reach it, drive south on Hwy. 133 to Gunnison Country Road 3, which angles off to the left 15 miles from Carbondale, just before it climbs to the top of McClure Pass. The Nordic Center is 2.7 miles from the turn-off. The one caveat, and it is important, is to call before

Snowshoeing through thick aspens near Carbondale. (Photo by Claire Walter)

visiting, because there is a chance that the center might not open in 2004-05; operations beyond that winter are in question, but it would be a real loss for Nordic recreationists if it closed. Ute Meadows Nordic Center, Gunnison County Road 3, Marble, CO 81623; (970) 963-5513 for information and (970) 948-1895 for snow conditions; www.utemeadows.com/nordic.htm.

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Crested Butte CRESTED BUTTE IS BOTH THE NAME OF A PRECIOUS GEM of a Victorian town and its namesake ski and mountain resort nearby. Together, they are cutting-edge outdoorsy. In addition to regular skiing and snowboarding preeminence, this is where modern telemarking was born and where extreme skiing reigns. The resort continues to host extreme skiing competitions, welcomed the first ESPN Winter-X Games in the Rocky Mountains, and in summer ranks as one of the country’s great mountain biking centers. It is also surrounded by abundant places for snowshoeing and other quiet pursuits of winter pleasure. The town of Crested Butte nestles alluringly in a high valley. False-front Victorian buildings house fine restaurants and shops along Elk Ave., the main commercial street, while brightly painted homes trimmed with gingerbread are found on the side streets and historic outbuildings line the alleys. Heaps of plowed snow add to this idyllic Currier & Ives scene. Crested Butte Mountain Resort is the name of the ski resort just north of town. Mt. Crested Butte is the name of the base-of-the-lifts resort development that is now an incorporated township. Crested Butte is the high pinnacle above the slopes that inspired the town’s name. Free shuttle buses connect the old town and the newer center. Surrounded on three sides by four Wilderness areas—Raggeds, West Elk, Maroon Bells– Snowmass, and Collegiate Peaks—Crested Butte is the gateway to some of Colorado’s prime backcountry. Many old mining roads provide safe routes directly into gorgeous valleys that lie outside of designated wildernesses and yet boast abundant backcountry beauty. For those who prefer a controlled environment, the ski area has a fine snowshoeing program, the local in-town Nordic ski center welcomes snowshoers, and guided excursions are easy to book. For tourist information, contact Crested Butte/Mt. Crested Butte Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 1288, Crested Butte, CO 81224; (800) 545-4505 or (970) 349-6438. .

GETTING THERE From Denver, you have two options. The first is to take Interstate 70

west to the Copper Mountain exit and then follow U.S. Hwy . 91 south to Leadville, where it merges with U.S. Hwy. 24, and continue through Buena V ista to Poncha Springs. The other is to take U.S. Hwy. 285 southwest over Kenosha Pass into South Park. From Colorado Springs, follow U.S. 24 west into the souther n section of South Park. At Johnson Village, U.S. Hwy. 285 merges with U.S. 24 and heads south to Poncha Springs. Either way, you turn right (west) on U.S. Hwy. 50. Continue over Monarch Pass to Gunnison, then take CO Hwy. 135 north to Crested Butte. The distance from Denver is 200 miles and from Colorado Springs is 170 miles.

CENTRAL Crested Butte

mountain communities have a winter trail system that starts right in town and yet so quickly leads away from the sights and feeling of being in the middle of everything. Located just three short blocks from Elk Ave., the bustling main street, the Crested Butte Nordic Center is at the edge of all the downtown action but remains removed from it. You can snowshoe in the morning, stroll over to one of the fine Elk Ave. restaurants at midday, and return to work your lunch off with more snowshoeing in the afternoon. Or you can pick up a picnic lunch on your way to the trails and not see civilization until you’re ready to call it quits. The Crested Butte Nordic Council runs the center, with three groomed loop systems totaling 40 kilometers, for which it charges a trail access fee. Snowshoers are permitted on all skating lanes, and the center offers additional ungroomed single-track trails for snowshoeing. Rental snowshoes are available in the day

Local snowshoers bushwhack through the powder, a short steep hike above the Crested Butte Nordic Center. (Photo by Claire Walter)

lodge. To reach popular system’s trails, climb up a small connector trail to The Bench, a plateau overlooking town. There you will find the 3-kilometer (1.9-mile) Electric Loop and the 3.5-kilometer (2.2-mile) Big Mine Loop, both directly accessible from the lodge. At first, when you pass the scattering of hillside homes, you feel as if you are snowshoeing in the cusp of residential development. A curve in the trail here, a few feet of elevation difference there, and you are away from it all. The Big Mine Loop also links up with the Green Lake Trail, a public trail south of town (see Trail 113). Three additional loop trails—Red Lady, Magic Meadows, and Keith’s Revenge—are connected to each other but not to the two other trails. The Nordic Council also grooms the free 2.5-kilometer Town Ranch Trail (see Trail 111). The Nordic center organizes half-day, fullday, and moonlight snowshoe tours, books guided trips to the Forest Queen Hut in Gothic, and takes reservations for overnights at the hut

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Crested Butte for those who prefer to snowshoe to it independently. It also puts on a variety of special snowshoe, ski, and snowshoe/cross-country skiing events, which include a progressive dinner on snowshoes or skis in Town Park in late January and several lighthearted fun races late in the season. The best known event is the popular Alley Loop Race, a long-established cross-country race held in early February with circuits at various distances contested in Crested Butte’s picturesque alley. There is now also a snowshoeing category. For information about the Nordic center or the race, contact the Crested Butte Nordic Council, P.O. Box 1269, 620 Second St., Big Mine Park, Crested Butte, CO 81224; (970) 349-1707; www.cbnordic.org.

Trail 111 TOWN RANCH TRAIL ● Easy Distance • 1.5 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,910 feet Highest elevation • 8,910 feet Elevation difference • Negligible Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • None required

When locals talk about Echo Ranch, they are referring to what was renamed Town Ranch when it was bought by the Crested Butte Land Trust as open space and as a recreational buffer between the old town and newer subdivisions springing up nearby. To reach the trailhead for this free 2.5-kilometer snowshoeing and skiing loop, turn east onto Red Lady Rd. at the large “Welcome to Crested Butte” sign at the entrance to town. Drive through the stop sign and around the school to the trailhead. The Town Ranch Trail is not only short— about 1.5 miles—but there is even a bailout halfway around the loop. Located in a huge meadow, it is virtually flat and ideal for firsttimers, timid snowshoers, and even the mobility impaired. The trail is groomed by the Crested Butte Nordic Council, and snowshoers are asked only to stay off the classical tracks. Use of this easy trail may be free, but the views are priceless. Dogs are permitted—actually encouraged—on this trail, so even your pooch can enjoy the panorama.

CENTRAL Crested Butte

■ Moderate Distance • 5.1 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low in lower section; moderate beyond Cement Creek Ranch Starting elevation • 8,960 feet Highest elevation • 9,828 feet (at Italian Creek Rd. junction) Elevation difference • 868 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #131, Crested Butte, Pearl Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Cement Mountain

To reach this scenic trail, take Hwy. 135 south from Crested Butte for 7 miles (or north from Gunnison for 20 miles). Turn east at the Cement Creek Rd. (Gunnison County Road/Forest Service Road 740), which is a left turn from Crested Butte and a right turn from Gunnison. At the fork in the Crested Butte South subdivision, go straight onto the unpaved road. Continue 4 miles from the highway to the end of the plowed section and begin snowshoeing up the road. The route starts out spectacularly as both the creek and the road thread through a

Cement Creek Ranch sits in a gorgeous isolated valley, accessed from a trailhead south of Crested Butte. (Photo by Claire Walter)

narrow canyon framed by high rock cliffs. It is gorgeous, and the ascent is steady. After about 0.6 mile, the small canyon narrows still more and the creek courses down a rock-strewn ditch at the edge of the road as the cliffs press closer, creating a dramatic little cleft between the rock walls. At the top of the steepest section, about 1 mile from the trailhead, the rock walls suddenly part to reveal a picture-postcard scene of the creek flowing past Cement Creek Ranch against a wonderful mountain backdrop. The hillside to the left of the road is blanketed with aspens, and the broad valley that stretches ahead and to the right is a prototypical Western scene. Just after the ranch you will pass an open gate designating the former winter closure point. Continue along the road, being mindful of private property alongside. After about 0.5 mile, a break in the aspens on the left indicates the only avalanche path along this portion of the road. If avalanche hazard is reported as substantial, do not cross below this path. Even with lesser danger, cross below it one person at a time, or turn back just after the ranch, a lovely destination for a shorter hike. Italian Creek Rd., merging from the right about 5.1 miles from the trailhead, should be your turnaround point, because slide hazard becomes substantial after that. Return the way you came. If You Want a Longer Hike. This road reaches some 9 miles to the northeast, along the north side of Cement Creek, petering out above the treeline at a mine on the side of Mt. Tilton. This is far more than the vast majority of snowshoers would be willing or able to hike (and much farther than is prudent because of avalanche potential), but if you want to continue beyond Italian Creek, only do so late in the season when the snowpack is reported to have stabilized.

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Crested Butte Trail 113 GREEN LAKE TRAIL ◆ Challenging Distance • 4.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low in the forest; moderate to high near the lake Starting elevation • 8,920 feet Highest elevation • 10,500 feet Elevation difference • 1,580 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed to the National Forest boundary) Maps • Trails Illustrated #131, Crested Butte, Kebler Pass; Trail Illustrated #131, Crested Butte, Pearl Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Crested Butte, USGS 7.5Minute, Mount Axtell

If you are a map-a-holic who likes to buy maps for every trail you plan to hike, the Green Lake Trail could cost you, because it sits on the cusp between two maps in the popular Trails Illustrated series. However, since it starts at the Crested Butte Nordic Center (see page 211), you can get a sketch map and very good directions there. There is no trail fee if you follow the signs through the Nordic trail network to an upper trailhead. From the Nordic center, snowshoe to the top of The Bench and angle across Journey’s End Rd. to the “real” trailhead, which is well-marked and obvious. (As an alternative, if you can get someone to drop you off at this trailhead, you can spare yourself the climb up The Bench. From downtown, drive south briefly on CO 135 and turn right onto Journey’s End Rd. and drive through the posh Trapper Crossing subdivision. Pay attention to the ubiquitous “no parking” signs along the road and don’t even park at what appears to be a small pullout at the trailhead.)

Begin snowshoeing to the southwest across a small meadow, which quickly enters a forest stand of spruce and aspen. A series of switchbacks up Gibson Ridge enable you to gain elevation comfortably. The forest is pierced by occasional clearings and flanked by occasional rock bands. The trail briefly joins old Green Lake Rd., which was the main route to the lake until this trail was constructed in the 1990s. The route becomes steeper, climbing a challenging 0.25-mile section that locals refer to as Baby Head Hill. If this is too steep for your liking, make a short hike of it by turning around here rather than tackle the breathsapping slog uphill. If you do make it to the top, you will be rewarded with great views of Mt. Emmons and the large cirque called Red Lady Bowl to your right. Otherwise, continue for 0.7 miles, where the trail joins Wildcat Rd., another suitable turn-around point. If you wish to continue, stay on Wildcat Rd. or follow a narrower parallel trail for 0.4 mile to the marked junction with the Green Lake Trail (Forest Service Trail #566). The grade is moderate as it passes through a section of forest noteworthy for its many old Engelmann spruce, soaring lodgepole pines, and occasional clearings. As you near the lake, you will find more variations in the trail—more open areas surrounded by dense trees, a few curves, and some stairstep steeps and flat areas. If you go all the way, you will approach the frozen lake from the east side. Take a look at the dramatic scenery, but don’t tarry—and definitely don’t wander to the other side of the lake, which has the steep flank of Mt. Axtell looming above, and with it, a potential slide zone.

CENTRAL Crested Butte

Distance • 2.1 miles Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,920 feet Highest elevation • 9,300 feet Elevation difference • 380 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • None required

The snow-covered recreation path provides a perfect snowshoeing opportunity either as an end unto itself or as an off-slope morning or afternoon leg-stretcher for skiers and snowboarders. It links the northeast corner of town with the southern end of Mt. Crested Butte and also with the Teocalli Connector Trail, which in turn hooks into the Town Ranch Trail (Trail 111). You can snowshoe one way and return via free bus. There is no charge for trail use, though donations to the Crested Butte Nordic Council are welcome. The trail is wide and flat, providing failurefree route finding. From town, it starts straight eastward, quickly making a sharp right to the north, then turns east again to skirt the Moonridge private property parcel, turns north again, and meanders upward to the resort, crossing the Slate River just outside of town and Washington Gulch shortly before reaching Mt. Crested Butte. Guided Tours Alpineer Tours. This outdoor and moun-

taineering retail shop has been supporting free weekly group snowshoe outings since the 1995–1996 winter season. Crested Butte Mountain Guides conducts the tours to such trails as Slate River Gulch, Washington Gulch, and Snodgrass Mountain. Full-moon excursions are occasionally offered. The store,

Crested Butte Mountain Guides. In addition to guiding regular tours for The Alpineer, they offer custom half-day, full-day, and overnight programs, the latter to the Elkton cabins or to a yurt below Teocalli Mountain. CBMG also offers a full range of courses for those interested in more extensive backcountry trailing. Crested Butte Mountain Guides, P.O. Box 1061, Crested Butte, CO 81224; (970) 349-5430; www.crestedbutteguides.com.

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● ■ Easy to moderate

located at a four-way stop at the edge of downtown and en route to Crested Butte Mountain Resort, sells and rents snowshoes and offers free demo models for participants in guided Alpineer outings. All ability levels are welcome, and reservations are strongly suggested. The Alpineer, P.O. Box 208, 419 Sixth St., Crested Butte, CO 81224; (970) 349-5210; www.alpineer.com.

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Crested Butte Nordic Center. Guided

tours ranging from half-days to overnights are offered by reservation through the Crested Butte Nordic Center (see page 211). Crested Butte Mountain Resort. For on-mountain snowshoe tours, see page 219. Friends of RMBL Winter Ecology Walk.

Once a winter, originally in February and more recently in March, environmental educators from the prestigious Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory in Gothic conduct a free halfday winter ecology program on snowshoes. The venues have changed from year to year, but in the past, they have included Brush Creek, Slate River, Taylor Canyon, and Snodgrass Mountain. The program discusses native plant and animal species. Snowshoes and snacks are available. Check www.rmbl.org for details; or for information and reservations, call (970) 349-7231. The institute’s Web site, www.rmbl.org, posts the snowshoeing tour close to its scheduled date.

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Crested Butte Trail 115 SLATE RIVER GULCH ● Easy Distance • 2 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,920 feet Highest elevation • 9,100 feet (at Oh-BeJoyful Rd. junction) Elevation difference • 180 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #133, Kebler Pass, Paonia Reservoir; USGS 7.5-Minute, Mount Axtell

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From the four-way intersection in Crested Butte, take Gothic Rd. toward the ski resort (north), but turn left (northwest) after 1 mile onto Slate River Rd. (Gunnison County/Forest Service Road 734). Drive 3.5 miles to the plowed parking area just beyond Nicholson Lake. The first 0.5 mile has virtually no history of avalanche activity. In normal years, the hazard beyond is low, but in times of severe slide conditions, some paths do cross this road, so be cautious. From the trailhead, climb up the snowbank and begin snowshoeing up the road. The beginning of the route passes an open area and climbs slightly. After about 0.25 mile, you will come to a small blank signboard and fork in the trail. You can take either path, because they pass on opposite sides of a small, forested knob and meet shortly in a wide portion of the valley. As you proceed up-valley, you will see Schuylkill Ridge on the left and Anthracite Mesa on the right. The meandering path of the Slate River can also be seen to the left, sometimes close to the road and sometimes screened from view by trees and brush.

The road climbs gently but steadily through the scenic valley. It heads to the northwest, always in the direction of tantalizing views of the Paradise Divide and the beautiful summits of the Raggeds Wilderness, and gradually draws closer to the river that winds sinuously through the valley bottom below. If you are not up for a long hike but do want to get closer to the river, the area near the junction with Gunsight Pass Rd. (Gunnison County Road 734A/Forest Service Road 585) to the left at about 1.1 miles is an ideal place to take a break or have a picnic not far from the trailhead. Otherwise, continue as far up the valley as you wish. The Oh-Be-Joyful Rd. junction (Forest Service Road 754), about 0.5 mile farther, is a good turnaround point. Return the way you came. If You Want a Longer Hike. The Slate River Rd. continues to the Pittsburg townsite and mine, a total of about 5 miles and 500 vertical feet from the trailhead. As you continue up-valley, however, be mindful about slide potential and don’t consider going past the townsite.

The wide road up Slate River Gulch is a popular route for snowshoers and other winter recreationists. (Photo by Claire Walter)

CENTRAL Crested Butte

● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 2.3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,400 feet Highest elevation • 9,900 feet Elevation difference • 500 feet Snowmobiles • Permitted but discouraged Dogs • Yes (commercial dogsled operators use this route; private dogsledding discouraged) Maps • Trails Illustrated #133, Kebler Pass, Paonia Reservoir; USGS 7.5-Minute, Mount Axtell

In the 1880s, when Crested Butte was a gold mining town, much of the $350,000 worth of gold credited to it came from Washington Gulch mines. Today, the riches are all scenic and recreational. From the four-way intersection in Crested Butte, drive up Gothic Rd. for 1.7 miles and turn left onto Washington Gulch Rd. (Gunnison County/Forest Service Road 811). Continue through a booming residential area for 2.6 miles to the end of the plowed section near the Meridian Lakes subdivision. This is one of the most-used snowmobile trails around Crested Butte, so if sharing the trail troubles you, select another one. Still, it is possible to avoid some of the snowmobile traffic by bearing left at the “Skiers” sign about 1 mile from the trailhead. From the parking area, begin snowshoeing up the unplowed road, which bears northwest. It initially drops down into a long basin, passes through a fence and then begins ascending gently up the long, sparsely treed valley. You are just one drainage north of and higher than

Slate River Gulch (Trail 115) The mountain on your left is Anthracite Mesa; the one on your right is Gothic Mountain. Be aware that in heavy snow years, avalanches have been known to break off this mountain and occasionally reach the road. About 2.3 miles from the trailhead is a second fence with a small hill topped by a clump of trees ahead. The top of White Rock Mountain can be seen poking above the saddle between Gothic Mountain and Snodgrass Mountain. This spot makes for both lovely views and a reasonable turnaround point for a moderate hike.

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If You Want a Longer Hike . The Elkton

Huts, about 6 miles from the trailhead at an elevation of 10,700 feet, are a landmark destination for a trek deep into Washington Gulch. To reach them, follow the road as it contours first around Gothic Mountain and then around Elkton Ridge. You will drop into a deep ravine at about 3.5 miles. You need to factor in two fairly steep ascents when assessing your fitness for this route: The first comes at about 3 miles from the trailhead, and the second is just before the Elkton Huts. Many people are tired from a long tour when they arrive there, which is one reason the huts are popular for overnights. It is also important to check on avalanche conditions before setting out. Crested Butte Mountain Guides (see page 215), a local outfitter and guide service, leads overnight ski tours to the huts and handles overnight bookings for those who would like to travel independently. For information or hut bookings, call (970) 349-5430 or go to www.crestedbutteguides.com.

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Crested Butte Trail 117 DITCH RD. ● Easy Distance • 1.75 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,900 feet Highest elevation • 9,050 feet Elevation difference • 150 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #131, Crested Butte, Pearl Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Cement Mountain

Take Hwy. 135 south from Crested Butte about 0.5 mile and turn left at the Crested Butte Country Club sign onto Brush Creek Rd. (Gunnison County/Forest Service Road 738). Instead of turning toward the country club, continue straight onto the unpaved section, a continuation of Forest Service Road 738, which bends to the left (east). You will find it on USFS maps, but it currently has no road sign. Park in the plowed lot to the left, 3.6 miles from the highway, as directed by the “Trailhead Parking—No Parking Beyond This Point” sign. The trailhead is at the north end of the parking area.

The snowshoeing is easy along Ditch Road, a flat trail overlooking snowed-over pastures in Crested Butte’s Brush Creek Valley. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Begin walking north along the flat and gentle Ditch Rd., paralleling a fence line that marks a private property boundary. On your left is the bottom of Crested Butte Mountain, its summit out of sight, but your eyes will be drawn to the beautiful valley to your right— achingly picturesque ranch buildings, grazing cattle and snow-covered pastures, through which the East River gracefully flows. The Ditch Rd.’s gentle grade lies between aspen-covered hillside and the beautiful valley. After about 0.75 mile you will pass through a fence and climb slightly into mixed woods of aspen, brush, and conifers, alternating with small clearings. You might have to find a snow bridge to cross the small stream flowing down from the left. Soon the road bends to the right, crosses a footbridge, and peters out in a meadow of breathtaking vastness, with the slopes of Teocalli Mountain, horizontally striped in the gray and white that characterize the Maroon Bells range, as a dramatic backstop. Return the way you came.

CENTRAL Crested Butte

● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 3.7 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None in lower Brush Creek Valley; low to moderate beyond Starting elevation • 8,900 feet Highest elevation • 9,200 feet Elevation difference • 300 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #131, Crested Butte, Pearl Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Cement Mountain

Follow the directions to the parking lot for the Ditch Rd. trailhead (see page 218), but return on foot to the vehicle road and begin walking or snowshoeing 0.7 mile east past the Cold Spring Ranch to the end of the plowed section. Respect private property on both sides of the road, which at nearly 1.5 miles round-trip makes an ultragentle beginner snowshoe walk. The route is also used by snowmobiles and even by winter horseback riders, so you will appreciate the flexibility and convenience of snowshoes on a choppy snow surface. At the ranch, bear left (north) to stay on West Brush Creek Rd. (the continuation of Forest Service Road 738), which is an easy route along the valley floor. You can snowshoe for some 1.7 miles, crossing the stream, after which you will see the entire gorgeous valley, originally named the Brush Creek Cow Camp. The view of 13,208-foot Teocalli Mountain in the Maroon Bells–Snowmass Wilderness improves with every step. The cow camp gate makes a good turnaround point if you want scenery without any real workout. After that, the road begins to climb gradually. A mile later, you will come to a fork with Middle Brush Creek Rd., a second good turnaround point. Whichever way you choose, retrace your tracks on the way back.

If You Want a Longer Hike. You can either bear left at the fork to continue along West Brush Creek Rd. (this part is Forest Service Road 738-2A) or right for Middle Brush Creek Rd. (Forest Service Road 738). If you take the former, you will be following the West Brush Creek streambed, with Teocalli Ridge rising to your right (east). Turn around at the junction with Forest Service Road 528 on the left, because after that, potential avalanche activity increases. The latter trail follows East Brush Creek into a tighter, more slide-prone valley.

Snowshoeing

Trail 118 WEST BRUSH CREEK RD.

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Alpine Ski Resort Crested Butte Mountain Resort.

The Crested Butte Snowshoeing Area, established in 1998–1999, boasts 4 miles of lovely snowshoeing trails that thread through the aspen and pine woods on the eastern flank of the ski area. From parts of the trail, you’ll be treated to fine views of Teocalli Mountain, the White Rock massif, and Avery Peak. Even though these trails are surrounded by ski slopes, they feel remote. It is always a surprise when an Alpine skier drifts into sight on a nearby ski trail. If you take a 2.5-hour guided tour, offered daily at 10:00 A.M., a ride on the Red Lady Express chairlift is included, as are snowshoe rentals and a snack. If you snowshoe on your own, you must walk up to the snowshoeing area, provide your own snowshoes, and bring your own nibbles. All snowshoers return to the base by walking down an easy ski trail. Sign-ups and information for snowshoeing are part of the ski school office in the Gothic Building. For more information, call (800) 810-SNOW or go to www.crestedbutteresort.com

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Crested Butte Trail 119 GOTHIC RD. ● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to moderate along much of the route, but high in spots (especially near Snodgrass and Gothic Mountains) Starting elevation • 9,300 feet Highest elevation • 9,640 feet Elevation difference • 340 feet (including 290 feet of gain; 280 feet of loss) Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #131, Crested Butte, Pearl Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Gothic

This busy route, located “behind” (which is to say, to the north of) Crested Butte Mountain Resort, is one of the most gorgeous areas around Crested Butte. It is a popular ski tour too, and at times tracks are even set across the grand valley. The former mining camp of Gothic is the site of the prestigious Rocky

Gothic Road cuts through beautiful stands of aspen en route to Gothic. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Mountain Biological Laboratory, whose researchers travel back and forth this way throughout the winter. The snow is therefore always packed down, so snowshoers and Nordic skiers rarely have to break trail. In times of avalanche danger, it is a potentially hazardous area, particularly near the northeast sides of Snodgrass and Gothic Mountains. The scenery cannot be beat and the modest elevation gain won’t beat you up, but always check avalanche conditions if you plan to try it. In no case should you consider continuing past Gothic toward Schofield Pass. To reach the winter trailhead, drive past Mt. Crested Butte Resort and related residential developments to the plowed area at the end of the road. Begin snowshoeing along the unplowed road, which angles up the hillside, with Snodgrass Mountain above you on the left and the East River in the valley below on the right. The route heads to the northwest and ends in the old mining town of Gothic. If you make it all the way, be sure to stay on the road as you look at the townsite, as there is private property on both sides. The round-trip is a long one on snowshoes, mitigated only by the modest elevation change. One cabin in Gothic can be rented overnight; contact the Crested Butte Nordic Center for details (see page 211). A less heavily used and also less avalancheprone parallel route, with a trailhead behind the Crested Butte Stables, follows the east side of the East River and leads to Gothic. Skiers consider it somewhat more difficult, but it’s not so much of an issue for snowshoers. You can either do an out-and-back as far as you wish or, if you can go the distance, make a loop using Gothic Rd. in one direction. If there are any doubts about safety in this area, choose someplace else entirely.

CENTRAL Crested Butte

■ Moderate (to the junction with the Snodgrass Mountain Trail) Distance • 2.3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,580 feet Highest elevation • 10,260 feet Elevation difference • 680 feet Snowmobiles • Yes (by permit only, meaning use is low) Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #131, Crested Butte, Pearl Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Gothic

This area, which includes substantial property holdings in private hands, is slated for development, perhaps in the not-too-distant future, which could eventually change access points. For now, to reach the Snodgrass Mountain Rd. trailhead, drive north from Crested Butte as if heading for the Gothic Rd. trailhead, but just before reaching the maintenance garage, turn left into the parking area. Even though unstable snows on some sections of Snodgrass Mountain pose a potential avalanche problem for travelers on Gothic Rd. below, Snodgrass Mountain Rd. itself winds up a fairly safe section of the mountain. When passing stream paths, however, be alert for potential slide activity. From the parking area, ascend gently across an open field following a fenceline and past remnants of old ranching operations, including an old log cabin just to the right of the trail. On your left is the commanding view of the Crested Butte ski area trails with the soaring peak of Crested Butte itself looming above. When you come to a short, steep section within sight of the trailhead, either take an energy-saving switchback or hike straight uphill. You will probably see tracks of both options. At the top, you are suddenly in the aspen zone.

After another fence that crosses the path, a trail junction with a prominent sign points to a connector to Washington Gulch straight ahead and Snodgrass Mountain Rd. to the right. Bear right onto that wide road flanked by aspens. The route is straightforward, climbing steadily and paralleling the Gothic Rd. Occasional clearings reveal views of the East River Valley and ridge above it. With dramatic suddenness, aspens give way to thick pines. The road doubles back on itself with one switchback to the left, and after another long straight reach, it switchbacks to the right. You are now on the saddle of a broad ridge on the southeast flank of Snodgrass Mountain, where dense trees open into broad plateau with a view of Mt. Axtell on your left across Washington Gulch. Follow the trail on this wide ridge. After one bend to the right, you will see on your left the weathered stumps of what once were an enormous pine and a tall dead pine. Just past these former trees is a sign indicating that the Snodgrass Trail veers off to the left. In deep-snow years, this sign might be buried. This is a good spot to turn around and retrace your steps, or you can make a loop by following the direction of that sign to the Snodgrass Mountain Trail. Some words of caution: this section is confusing, because the mountain is laced with many summer single-track mountain biking trails, not one of which gets such constant winter traffic that it remains tracked out and easy to follow. The conifers are dense in this area, and the trails are not marked for winter use, which means that you will probably follow other snowshoe and ski tracks to make a loop that will eventually return you to the main trail junction. When you emerge from the trees and see the junction in the gully below, glissade down if you emerge at a steep section or make a wide switchback to return to the trailhead.

Snowshoeing

Trail 120 SNODGRASS MOUNTAIN RD.

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provocative TV cartoon of the same name. It is a real place. This enormous valley, 40 by 30 miles—roughly three-quarters the size of Rhode Island—is fringed by mountains and sparsely populated by ranchers and cattle, and is a favorite winter feeding ground for elk herds. When driving through it on U.S. Hwy. 285 or U.S. Hwy. 24, between the Front Range and the central Colorado Rockies, one feels overwhelmed by the sense of vast emptiness, with Fairplay at its core. The South Platte River angles through the valley, but unless you are right at its banks, you are hard-pressed to spot it even from a short distance across the flat landscape. Winter in South Park is not the same as it is in the high country or in other more temperate river valleys. An old-timer’s saying goes: “It never snows in South Park, but a hell of a lot of snow blows through.” In the winter, powerful winds often sweep across plainlike South Park, raking the ground of snow and depositing it on the lee sides of fences, ridges, houses, and barns. Such a “ground blizzard” is a curious and disorienting weather phenomenon when driving through it. On clear days, however, South Park’s beauty—a huge expanse of open land ringed with snowy mountains and capped by a Colorado-blue sky—is a sight to behold. Prospecting, mining, saltworks, and lumbering each played its role in the history of South Park and nearby mountains, but today it is largely somnolent and rural. It is surrounded by newly booming counties and only now is beginning to get some spillover development, especially near Fairplay, yet it retains a sense of timelessness and great open space. The Mosquito and Park Mountains to the north and the Tarryalls to the east offer not only scenic beauty but also recreational possibilities, often without crowds. Fly-fishing, hiking, camping, and four-wheeling are the major attractions during the warm months, with winter a distant second in terms of popularity. Fairplay, tucked into South Park’s northwest section, is the only town of note; even at that, it is more village than town, especially in winter when tourism slows to a trickle. For tourist information, contact the Park County Tourism Office, P.O. Box 1373, Fairplay, CO 80440; (719) 836-4279. GETTING THERE From Denver, take U.S. 285 southwest over Kenosha Pass into

South Park. Fairplay is approximately 85 miles from the metro area and ser ves as the jumping-off point for some of the area’ s best snowshoeing venues. You can also reach South Park from Interstate 70 by driving south from Breckenridge on CO Hwy . 9 over Hoosier Pass. From Colorado Springs, also about 85 miles away , follow U.S. 24 west into the southern section of South Park. From the west, the route is via U.S. 24 through Leadville and Buena Vista.

Snowshoeing

SOUTH PARK IS NOT JUST A FICTITIOUS SETTING conjured up for the

223 COLORADO

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Fairplay and South Park Nordic Trail System Beaver Creek Trail System. The Beaver

Creek Trail System north of Fairplay is a network of excellent winter trails. One unplowed road, which snowmobiles use to access a web of old mining roads, and three adjacent loops total about 15 miles. These trails are shown on Trails Illustrated #109, Breckenridge, Tennessee Pass. To reach them, take Fourth St. northeast out of the center of Fairplay. After four blocks, turn left onto Bogue St., which becomes Bear Creek Rd. (Park County Road 659). Continue 2.6 miles to the parking area at the end of the plowed section. Begin snowshoeing up the road. The first and shortest loop, aptly called the Short Loop, is to the left, just after the gate and cattle guard. It arcs over relatively tame terrain and rejoins the main road after 1.6 miles. Snowmobiles are prohibited on the Short Loop. On the other side of the main route (right, as you come up from the trailhead) is the beginning of the Crooked Creek Trail marked with

Wooded areas, blanketed in snow, fringe the vast open valley called South Park. (Courtesy of Tubbs Snowshoes)

an orange diamond indicating that snowmobiles are permitted and the number 4. This trail leads over a ridge and down into the Crooked Creek Valley, where it splits into two loops—a 5-mile trail to the right that also is marked with an orange diamond, and a 4-mile trail to the left, which is marked with an orange diamond and the number 7. The only slide zone on this system under normal conditions is at the far, narrow end of the trail marked 7, so avoid it if avalanche hazards are reported. The return to the main trail is over the ridge. Farther up the last loop, a trail is marked with an orange diamond (again meaning that snowmobiles are permitted) and the number 3. This 3-miler is the most challenging option along the Beaver Creek Trail System as well as the most scenic, offering one of Colorado’s most spectacular panoramas. It ascends through heavy timber to a high spot on the ridge, just below treeline, that in clear weather offers views of the Mosquito, Tenmile, and Sangre de Cristo Ranges.

CENTRAL Fairplay and South Park

■ Moderate Distance • 5.5 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,980 feet Highest elevation • 10,640 feet Elevation difference • 660 feet (plus many ascents and descents) Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #110, Leadville, Fairplay; USGS 7.5-Minute, Fairplay West

This trail was named for the workers who cut timber to make the ties on which railroad tracks were laid. In this case, it commemorates the tie hacks who built the Denver, South Park, and Pacific Railroads across the wide valley, but the route actually incorporates not railroad track but part of an old stagecoach road that served the old Horseshoe and Sacramento mining camps. Horseshoe is the name of a present-day Forest Service summer campground. From the Fairplay intersection of U.S. 285 and Hwy. 9, continue south on U.S. 285 for 1.2 miles and turn right (west) onto Fourmile Rd. (Park County Road 18). Bear right at the fork and continue for a total of 3.5 miles from the turnoff to a parking area on your right.

The Tie Hack Trail is shaped like an elongated and slightly irregular lollipop. Snowshoe up the stick, then make your way around the sweet part in either direction. The lollipop stick heads northwest about 1 mile from the trailhead and may have iffy snow conditions, but the cover improves as you climb toward the loop. Be sure to follow the blue diamonds that mark the trail, because there are several junctions with other old roads that can throw you off the trail. Pick your direction at the marked intersection between the “stick” and the “sucker.” If you snowshoe clockwise, you will start with a steeper climb and descend on a gentler portion of the loop on your return—and vice versa if counterclockwise is your choice. If you decide to go clockwise, bear left at the signs and climb up a steep section of the trail. Pass a Sheep Mountain sign after 0.5 mile to reach a fork 0.4 mile later. The trail to the left leads to the old Horseshoe mining campsite, but to continue on the loop, bear right (north). You will soon reach the high point of the trail and the apex of the loop, where it bends sharply to the right. Bear right again at the next fork. The blue markers will lead you back down through the trees and some clearings to complete the loop. Turn left and descend via the lollipop stick by which you came up.

Snowshoeing

Trail 121 TIE HACK TRAIL

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Fairplay and South Park Trail 122 BUCKSKIN RD. ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Moderate Starting elevation • 11,040 feet Highest elevation • 12,020 feet Elevation difference • 980 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #110, Breckenridge, Fairplay; USGS 7.5Minute, Alma, Climax

For summer hikers the drive up Buckskin Rd., which parallels Buckskin Creek to Kite Lake, is the approach to the trailhead from which they can ascend Mts. Democrat, Lincoln, and Bross, Colorado’s most popular three-pack of fourteeners. In winter, Kite Lake is a destination for many people—an end unto itself in the high country set against a backdrop of fourteeners. The route is not difficult, but the elevation is significant. To reach the winter trailhead, follow Hwy. 9 to Alma, 6 miles north of the junction with U.S. 285 at Fairplay or south 16 miles from Breckenridge (Alma is a bit less than 6 miles south of Hoosier Pass). In either case, turn west onto Buckskin Rd., which is across from the Alma Post Office. This is also Park County Road 8, but you might not find a sign until you have passed several houses along this road.

The road is usually plowed for at least 2.6 miles, but it is sometimes cleared for an additional 1.3 miles. However, it’s probably best not to count on that when planning your snowshoeing day. Park at the winter closure and begin snowshoeing northwestward through the trees. This is a heavily worked mining region, and many remnants of this activity can still be seen. One of Colorado’s most prominent mines is the Sweet Home, which you will pass on the right after 1.3 miles. In fact, one of the Denver Museum of Nature and Science’s most spectacular mineral exhibits is a rhodochrosite vein extracted from the Sweet Home Mine and reconstructed in the museum. As the trees thin and the vista opens, you will be treated to the spectacular panorama of the heart of the Mosquito Range, starring Mt. Buckskin and Mt. Arkansas, two high thirteeners, and three summits exceeding 14,000 feet—Mt. Democrat, Cameron Point, and Mt. Bross (Mt. Lincoln, the highest at 14,286 feet, is hidden from view, and Cameron Point, though cresting above 14,000, is not considered an “official” fourteener). If you go all the way to Kite Lake, some 6 miles round trip, which at this elevation is substantial, you can explore the flat area around it, or, if the winds have kicked up, retreat the way you came to the shelter of the trees.

CENTRAL Fairplay and South Park

■ Moderate Distance • 3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 11,060 feet Highest elevation • 11,400 feet (Mineral Park Mine) Elevation difference • 340 feet (to Mineral Park Mine) Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #110, Breckenridge, Fairplay; USGS 7.5Minute, Alma

The Windy Ridge Bristlecone Pine Scenic Area is on the southeastern side of 14,172-foot Mt. Bross, Colorado’s twenty-second highest peak. But this trail is not about climbing this popular fourteener. It is about exploring a little-traveled winter route through one of Colorado’s first mining areas to see one of the true natural wonders of the high country. The gnarled, twisted bristlecone pines, which resemble giant bonsai, are nature’s oldest living things. They can survive for thousands of years in the harshest climates of aridity, high winds, and lofty elevations (conditions you may find on your snowshoe hike). The route is not difficult and does not include a significant elevation gain, but the starting elevation at over 11,000 feet makes it more challenging than those modest trail stats would indicate.

From Fairplay, drive 7 miles northwest on Hwy. 9; from Breckenridge, drive south over Hoosier Pass to Alma. Turn west onto Park County Road 8, which is usually plowed for 3 miles to the old Paris Mill. Begin snowshoeing up the Dolly Varden Rd. (Forest Service Road 787). This is the first road on the right (north) from the parking area and is marked with a Bristlecone Scenic Area sign. The route is wide and easy, but the elevation will get your heart pumping as you pass many remnants of mining activities and old cabins on your steady ascent toward the east for about 1 mile. The route bends to the left (northeast) and, after 1.4 miles, ascends a ridge before dropping slightly to cross Sawmill Creek, where it curves to the right. If the weather is uncertain, Sawmill Creek makes a good turnaround spot. Otherwise, a couple of additional wide curves lead to Dolly Varden Gulch and the Mineral Park Mine, just below the bristlecone area. Return the way you came. If You Want a Longer Hike. Because you are so close to treeline, continue up Windy Ridge for a closer view of the bristlecones only when the snowpack is reported stable and the winds are not too strong. You can figure on a total elevation gain of up to 700 feet and a oneway distance of 3.5 to 4 miles from the trailhead, depending on when you turn back. This promotes the trail rating to “challenging” because of the distance and particularly because of the elevation.

Snowshoeing

Trail 123 WINDY RIDGE BRISTLECONE PINE SCENIC AREA

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Salida and Buena Vista WITH THE ARKANSAS RIVER AT ITS FEET and the fantastic mountainscape of

the Sawatch Range as its western backdrop, the Upper Arkansas Valley is in a charmed location. Its two main towns, Salida and Buena Vista, enjoy excellent valley weather and mountain access. The towns’ (relatively) low elevations and (relatively) mild climate dovetail beautifully with the power, beauty, and pleasures of Colorado’s beefiest mountains, which are a short drive away. For après-snowshoeing soaking, the region’s open-to-the-public hot springs beckon, including Salida Hot Springs and Princeton Hot Springs. Salida and nearby Buena Vista combine into the West’s biggest summer white-water rafting and kayaking mecca, so winter is the low season. And although snow-covered mountains and two ski areas (Monarch and Ski Cooper) are close by, this is not by any stretch a ski resort area, so prices remain reasonable. Local information contacts are indicated in the town write-ups below. Winter recreational information is available at www.fourteenernet.com/winter/, and a general tourist Web site for the area is http://nowthisiscolorado.com. The trails in the chapter are shown on the locator map on page 222.

Salida Salida is located on the Arkansas River, but it grew up with the railroad. It was a key division point for the Denver & Rio Grande, where the Leadville line spurred off from the main line. When the railroad pulled out, Salida stagnated. That resulted in the preservation of much of the quaint old town center, mainly because no one had the money to do much modernization. Therefore, the heart of Salida is a noteworthy National Historic District. Now revitalized, the downtown hums with interesting restaurants, shops, and galleries. In fact, it has become something of an art community, and the combination of creativity and sporty outdoorsiness adds to its distinctive qualities. For tourist information, contact the Heart of the Rockies Chamber of Commerce (also known as Salida Chamber of Commerce), 406 West U.S. 50, Salida, CO 81201; (877) 7725432; www.salidachamber.org.

Trails South of Salida From downtown Salida, go west on U.S. 50 to the intersection with U.S. 285 at Poncha Springs. Turn left (south) and drive south for 5.1 miles. Turn right (southwest) onto Chaffee County Road 200. The road soon crosses the unmarked county line, where the number changes to Saguache County Road 201. This unpaved road is plowed and accesses several trailheads. (Note that Trails Illustrated currently does not publish a map that covers the area between U.S. 50 to the north and the vast openness of the San Luis Valley to the south.)

CENTRAL Salida and Buena Vista

Distance • 2.3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,690 feet Highest elevation • 8,800 feet (at Forest Service Road 201B trailhead) Elevation difference • 110 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • USGS 7.5-Minute, Mount Ouray, Poncha Pass

From the turnoff, drive 2.6 miles to the Shirley Site, a large, plowed parking area on the left. From there, walk 0.2 mile along the road to a bridge marked Forest Service Road 201A. Cross the bridge and bear right (southwest) onto the wide, flat old railroad bed that parallels the county road on which you drove in. Snowshoe along this pretty and gentle route along the valley floor as far as you like and return the way you came, or do this mellow walk as a minor car shuttle, leaving another vehicle at the Forest Service Road 201B access (Trail 125).

■ Moderate Distance • 1.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,800 feet Highest elevation • 9,360 feet Elevation difference • 560 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • USGS 7.5-Minute, Mount Ouray, Poncha Pass

At the turnoff from U.S. 285, drive 4.1 miles (passing the Shirley Site at 2.6 miles) and pull as far off the road as possible when you see a bridge marked Forest Service Road 201B/C. Snowshoe across the bridge along the Old Railroad Grade (Trail 125), then bear right across the open area to a wooded hillside. Look closely and you will see an orange diamond affixed to one of the trees. This marks the start of a lovely trail along a summer road, roughly paralleling Silver Creek, which offers more bang for your buck than almost any other trail in this guide. It is accessible to snowmobiles, but you might not see any sledders, skiers, or other snowshoers on this little-used jewel of a trail. The route, which is marked by occasional orange markers, alternates moderately between steep pitches and rather flat sections. As you gain elevation, you will pass through a beautiful forest of conifers and aspens as the trail contours around a hillside and goes up steadily. The trees open up occasionally for fine views of Mt. Ouray, Chipeta Mountain, Sheep Mountain, and other high peaks. After you pass the marked intersection with the Rainbow Trail, a summer hiking trail, and just before you reach an old fence line, turn left and bushwhack up the hill to the rounded top.

Snowshoeing

● Easy

Trail 125 ROAD 201B/C

COLORADO

Trail 124 OLD RAILROAD GRADE

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230 Snowshoeing

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Salida and Buena Vista As you ascend, you may wonder why you bothered with the “summit” of a nonpeak. The answer is the views. When you look to the north, 14,229-foot Mt. Shavano dominates the vista, leading the procession of the mighty Sawatch Range. Turn around and gaze to the south, where the magnificent Sangre de Cristo Range soars above the San Luis Valley. On a clear day, more fourteeners can be seen from this spot than from any other in this guidebook.

Trail 126 BEAVER CREEK ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 2 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,680 feet Highest elevation • 9,600 feet Elevation difference • 920 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • USGS 7.5-Minute, Mount Ouray, Poncha Pass

From the Shirley Site parking area, cross the road and snowshoe southwest along Poncha Creek for about 0.25 mile (either along the road or on the north side of the creek, avoiding any possible snowmobile traffic), to the point where Beaver Creek enters Poncha Creek from the northwest. Turn into the Beaver Creek drainage and continue up the canyon and then to the ridge separating Beaver Creek from Poncha Creek. The route switchbacks through varied ecosystems, starting with meadows at the bottom near the creek and snaking up to alpine vegetation to the left (south) and sagebrush and other desert flora to the north (right). As you climb, enjoy the increasingly excellent views of the mountains, including the soaring Sangre de Cristo Range.

Trails West of Salida Salida is temperate, but just a few miles to the west and a few thousand feet higher, the snows fly early and pile up deep. Storms blow over Monarch Pass and dump onto the mountains and valleys east of the pass. Take U.S. 50 west of Salida to access several excellent winter trails.

CENTRAL Salida and Buena Vista

Distance • 4.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,160 feet Highest elevation • 10,760 feet Elevation difference • 1,600 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #130, Salida, St. Elmo, Shavano Peak; USGS 7.5-Minute, Maysville

From Salida, drive west on U.S. 50 through the hamlet of Maysville for about 10 miles (7 miles from Poncha Springs). Turn right (north) on North Fork Rd. (Chaffee County Road 240). If you can drive that far, continue 5 miles to the trailhead at the Angel of Shavano summer campground and the crossing of the Colorado Trail. If the road is not plowed past the last residences, you may add nearly a mile to your hike and subtract that much from the drive if you have to pull over sooner. Begin snowshoeing up the summer fourwheel-drive road that heads northwest, paralleling the North Fork of the South Arkansas River, with Mt. Shavano rising on your right. At times the road skirts the side of a deep, forested valley. Other stretches are lined with dramatic rock walls. The views keep changing and include Mts. Shavano and Tabeguache. The road contains a few moderately steep sections, especially during the first mile, then becomes gentler and more consistent in grade as it approaches the ghost town of Shavano, which not only provides a gonzo workout but also is the safest section. (The road continues another 5 miles through some dicey, avalanche-prone areas, eventually reaching the North Fork Reservoir, but it should be avoided in winter.)

■ Moderate Distance • 2.6 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low along Fooses Creek; moderate in places after the trail junction Starting elevation • 8,800 feet Highest elevation • 9,580 feet Elevation difference • 780 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #130, Salida, St. Elmo, Shavano Peak; USGS 7.5-Minute, Maysville, Garfield

Local snowshoers seem to agree that Fooses Creek (Chaffee County Road 225) is the favorite snowshoeing route. The first part of the unplowed road is gentle enough for beginners, while the whole route is long enough for experienced snowshoers (especially by continuing along North Fooses or South Creek). In addition, it is protected from winds during stormy days, as well as being part of the

Guide Terry DuBeau Ruggles readying a group for a trek up the North Fork Trail. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

Snowshoeing

◆ Challenging

Trail 128 FOOSES CREEK

COLORADO

Trail 127 NORTH FORK

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232 Snowshoeing

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Salida and Buena Vista Colorado Trail. To reach it, drive west on U.S. 50 approximately 9 miles from Poncha Springs. Turn left (southwest) onto Chaffee County Road 225, which is marked for Fooses Creek. At the bottom of the hill, turn left, and cross the wooden bridge to a plowed parking area. The beginning of the route is the easiest, most sheltered part—the one favored by families and by beginning snowshoers and touring skiers. Aspen, pine, sagebrush, and juniper flank various parts of this attractive trail. Being mindful of adjacent private property, follow the gently climbing route for 2.5 miles as it angles to the southwest alongside Fooses Creek, which is on your left. Continue for about 0.25 mile, then cross the creek. Keep going until you come to a fork where the trail divides into North Fooses and South Fooses and makes for a good turnaround spot. If You Want a Longer Hike. The North Fooses Trail, on the right, is the flatter and more popular of the two, for the same reason that people like Fooses Creek in the first place. Because of former logging activity, it leads past new-growth forest, mostly pine. There are occasional views east to Salida. The left fork is the South Fooses Trail, which is also part of the Colorado Trail, passing through conifers and willows, and offering fine views of Mt. Shavano and Taylor Mountain. It is a good continuation of this lovely route—at least for the first mile, which is safe. After the trail climbs a small rise and drops into a large meadow, it enters a slide-prone area and should be avoided at any time when hazardous avalanche conditions are reported.

Trail 129 MIDDLE FORK ◆ Challenging Distance • 3.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low for the first 3.5 miles; significantly higher thereafter Starting elevation • 9,680 feet Highest elevation • 10,900 feet Elevation difference • 1,220 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #130, Salida, St. Elmo, Shavano Peak; USGS 7.5-Minute, Garfield

The route paralleling and named for the Middle Fork of the South Arkansas River begins at a trailhead 13 miles west of Poncha Springs and 16 miles west of Salida. Take U.S. 50 west just past the Monarch Mountain Lodge and park at the trailhead on the right or at the lodge lot across the highway. On the right, you will find two trailheads very close together. The second, or western, one is Middle Fork Road (Chaffee County Road 230), which heads northwest toward the Continental Divide. The first 0.5 mile of this road is the steepest, but after finishing this breath-sapping stretch, you can relax and hike along a more moderate path. The trees become thinner and “breathtaking” replaces “breath-sapping” as the choice adjective, with Mt. Etna, Taylor Mountain, Vulcan Mountain, and Clover Mountain arrayed around you. After about 3.5 miles you will come to two old cabins. Turn around here, for the avalanche danger beyond can be severe.

CENTRAL Salida and Buena Vista

Distance • 1.6 miles Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 10,340 feet Highest elevation • 11,380 feet Elevation difference • 1,040 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #130, Salida, St. Elmo, Shavano Peak; USGS 7.5-Minute, Garfield

One place you’re unlikely to experience snowshoer–skier conflicts is on the Waterdog Lakes Trail (Forest Service Trail #1417), because Nordic skiers rarely use it. Primarily a summer hiking trail, it morphs into an appealing snowshoeing route for those up for little challenge. From Salida, continue west on U.S. 50 past the Monarch Mountain Lodge for 2.4 miles and park at a wide pullout on the left side of the highway. Cross the highway to the trailhead, where you’ll find a Forest Service trail register, and begin snowshoeing or walking up the first section of the trail. You’ll quickly discover why this summer hiking trail finds little favor with skiers. The first section is very steep and even includes three log steps, which are sometimes snow-covered but early or late in the season most likely will require some ginger stepping on snowshoes—best bet is to put your snowshoes after these steps. The first 0.25 mile is quite steep and includes several dips, rises, and bends. With the sounds of vehicles, especially big trucks, on the highway that are quite audible, it does-

Guided Tours Travelwise Guides. Veteran guide Terry

DeBeau Ruggles offers two private small-group tours on her favorite San Isabel National Forest routes. The Nature Snowshoe is billed as a hands-on field trip lasting about three to four hours. The Adventure Snowshoe tour, lasting four to six hours, provides a greater workout and less interpretation. Included in both are transportation; use of snowhoes, poles, gaiters, fanny pack; water; and lunch. Contact her by phone at (719)530-0914 or by e-mail at [email protected].

Snowshoeing

◆ Challenging

n’t initially feel like much of a wilderness experience. However, one large switchback bend to the right puts you into another realm. The grade becomes gentler and the highway noises fade, then disappear. As the trail rambles northwestward through a conifer forest, it crosses an electric powerline twice and parallels it closely twice more for short distances before veering off toward the lakes. All along the route are tantalizing glimpses of the Monarch Pass scenic tramway, the now-defunct Madonna Mine across the highway and, of course, the surrounding summits and ridges. The lakes are set in a broad valley, with Banana and Bald Mountains to the north and the backside of the Monarch Ski and Snowboard Area directly to the west. If you look closely, you might see skiers and snowboarders participating in the resort’s snowcat skiing operation in the trees—their guides no doubt are pointing out the Waterdog Lakes to them. The upper lake is about 100 feet higher than the lower lake. Return the way you came.

COLORADO

Trail 130 WATERDOG LAKES

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Salida and Buena Vista Trail 131 OLD MONARCH PASS RD. ● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 1.6 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 11,000 feet Highest elevation • 11,375 feet Elevation difference • 375 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #130, Salida, St. Elmo, Shavano Peak; USGS 7.5-Minute, Garfield

The entire 10.5-mile route of the Old Monarch Pass Rd. (County Road 237), which carried traffic over the divide before the present highway was built, is one of Colorado’s classic ski tours. It is generally done as a car shuttle, in which skiers make their way up the first section, crest the pass, and enjoy an 8.8-mile glide, complete with exciting hairpin turns, deep into the Tomichi Creek Valley, which is part of the Gunnison River drainage. For snowshoers, that initial 1.6 miles makes an excellent and accessible out-and-back route, complete with sensational views. This is a real fair-weather route, for it can be blustery on stormy days—and it’s a much better choice when you can enjoy the views. Take U.S. 50 west from Salida and pass the Monarch Ski and Snowboard Area. If you travel east from Gunnison and you reach the ski area, you’ve gone too far. Continue for 0.7 mile and pull off at the Old Monarch Pass trail sign on the right (west) side of the road. Ascend the wide route, whose main challenge comes from the elevation. The road has a couple of wide, looping bends and in places comes close to the ski area boundary. On your right, Alpine skiers and snowboarders whiz down a trail just a

short distance from your snowshoe route. On your left are the gondola towers for the summer scenic ride on the top of the pass. From the top of the pass, gaze at such nearby peaks as Mt. Aetna, Taylor Mountain, Missouri Hill, and Lost Mountain, as well as such more distant ranges as the lofty Sawatch and La Garita Ranges. On clear days, you may even be able to pick out San Luis Peak, nearly 50 miles away to the southwest. Return the way you came. If You Want a Longer Hike. If you’re in training for a mountain marathon, you can do the whole 10.5-mile Old Monarch Pass Rd., keeping out of skiers’ way as they descend fast. If you are in serious training, you’d probably want to start at White Pine Rd., on the west side of Monarch Pass, 4.7 miles from U.S. 50, so you can enjoy the grueling 2,450-foot ascent. You would most likely do it as a shuttle, with a car at the trailhead described above.

Guided Tours Rocky Mountain Outdoor Center. This

Salida outfitter offers a range of snowshoe programs, from half-day beginner tours to a variety of nearby places, including Old Monarch Pass Rd., Fooses Creek, and others, to multiday backcountry adventures, with or without winter mountaineering or ice-climbing instruction. RMOC is located in and shares an address with Headwaters Outdoor Equipment, 228 North F St., Salida, CO 81201; (800) 288-0675 or (719) 539-4506; www.rmoc.com. For reservations and questions call (800) 255-5784 or (719) 539-2420.

CENTRAL Salida and Buena Vista

GETTING THERE From the Front Range,

follow the same route as for Salida. Buena Vista is along U.S. 24, approximately 25 miles north of Salida and 37 miles south of Leadville. Whether you take U.S. 285 or Interstate 70 via Leadville, the distance from Denver to Buena Vista is about 125 miles; it is about 100 miles from Colorado Springs.

Trail 132 COLLEGIATE PEAKS CAMPGROUND ● Easy Distance • Varies Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,000 feet Highest elevation • 9,000 feet Elevation difference • Negligible Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • None required

From U.S. 24 in downtown Buena Vista, drive west on Cottonwood Pass Rd. (Chaffee County Road 306) for 10.6 miles. Pull off at the sign to the Collegiate Peaks Campground, which is unplowed and snow-covered through much of the winter. The road for the campground and the flat areas to and around the campsites and picnic areas are excellent for those first steps on snowshoes or for exploring with small children on big feet. Wildely scattered trees, easy terrain, and fine views are an unbeatable combination for such early snowshoeing experiences.

Snowshoeing

Buena Vista’s most famous sports are whitewater rafting and kayaking on the Arkansas River, where many outfitters are located. It is also fourteener central, with commanding views of some of Colorado’s beefiest peaks. Mt. Princeton, a compelling hulk of a mountain, lies west of town and, with its neighbors, Mts. Harvard, Columbia, and Yale, comprises the Collegiate Peaks portion of the mighty Sawatch Range. The land between U.S. 24 and the mountains offers some fine gentle snowshoeing terrain, and other more demanding routes lie in high valleys between the mountains. Just east of the highway’s motel and gas station strip is the funky charm of downtown Buena Vista, which, by the way, locals pronounce as “Byoonah Vista.” For tourist information, contact the Buena Vista Area Chamber of Commerce, 343 Hwy. 24 South, P.O. Box 2021, Buena Vista, CO 81211; (719) 395-6612; www.buenavistacolorado.org.

COLORADO

Buena Vista

235

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236 Snowshoeing

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Salida and Buena Vista Trail 133 EVANS-RUSH TRAIL AREA ● Easy Distance • Varies Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,560 feet Highest elevation • 9,000 feet Elevation difference • 440 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #130, Salida, St. Elmo, Shavano Peak; USGS 7.5-Minute, Mt. Antero

From U.S. 24 between Buena Vista and Salida (via CO Hwy. 291), drive west on Forest Service Road 270, which shoots arrow-straight toward the mountains. Proceed straight at the four-way stop sign, passing through widely spaced pines, to the intersection with Forest Service Roads 272 and 274, where you will see a sign for Evans-Rush Cross-Country Ski Trail on the south side of the parking area. This popular trail was named for local skiers Art Evans and Keith Rush, who were killed in an avalanche on January 14, 1975.

Mt. Princeton looms grandly over the Evans-Rush Trail and surrounding snowshoe-friendly terrain. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

One of Colorado’s easiest, most pleasant, most scenic, and most flexible snowshoe experiences is a gentle exploration, within sight of the parking area, of the area around the skiers’ trailhead. It is an ideal place for first-time snowshoers or young children, who can prowl around among the trees or climb a small knoll a few hundred feet north of the parking area. For a trail hike, go west a short way on Forest Service Road 274, continuing a mile or more along Raspberry Gulch Rd. (Forest Service Road 273) or Eddy Creek Rd. (Forest Service Roads 274 and 274A). These roads are flat and easy to follow, and they offer incredible mountain views. Return the way you came. If You Want a Longer Hike.

Instead of a gentle meander, you can make this a more challenging snowshoe hike by following the entire 4.5-mile Evans-Rush Trail, which includes a demanding climb and descent of a portion of Mt. Antero’s eastern flank. To reach it, start on the unplowed section of Road 270 and follow the trail markers.

CENTRAL Salida and Buena Vista

● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • Varies Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 7,800 feet Highest elevation • Varies Elevation difference • Varies Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #130, Salida, St. Elmo, Shavano Peak; USGS 7.5-Minute, Castle Rock; USGS 7.5-Minute Emich

From Buena Vista or Salida, turn onto U.S. 285 north/U.S. 24 east and follow it for about 6.5 miles to Chaffee County Road 187/Forest Service Road 215 on the right. (If you are coming from Fairplay, drive 4 miles past Trout Creek Pass and turn on Chaffee County Road 187/ Forest Service Road 215 on the left.) Parking is available at the junction with Chaffee County Road 185, from which you can snowshoe where you wish. If snow cover is low and the road is passable, follow it deeper into Bassam Park. This road twists and turns, passing stunning rock formations and ranches and garnering a good chance of seeing both livestock and wildlife. Follow the road south for about 7 miles into Bassam Park.

This is not a trail or even a trail system as such but a high plateau that becomes a winter playground for snowshoers, snowmobilers, and cross-country skiers—and there’s plenty of elbow room for all. When the snow is deep, it’s a powder pig’s paradise of old roads, open areas, wooded places, and hills, all ripe for free-form exploring, particularly on warm, sunny days. From high spots, the views of the Sawatch Range stretching along the western horizon are stunning. They alone are worth the journey to Bassam Park.

Snowshoeing

Trail 134 BASSAM PARK

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237

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238 Snowshoeing

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Trails 155-160

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Walden 14 14

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Oak Creek

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Kremmling

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Snowshoeing

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NORTHERN Winter Park and Granby: Trails 135–140 Rocky Mountain National Park–West Side: Trails 141–148 Steamboat Springs: Trails 149–163

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NORTHERN Winter Park and Granby orado R. Col

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6

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Family outings on snowshoes take place at Winter Park as well as in the nearby backcountry. (Courtesy of Winter Park Resort)

Snowshoeing

THE RESORT TOWN OF WINTER PARK, the ranching support community of Granby, and several smaller towns are located along U.S. Hwy. 40, which crosses a vast valley just a crow’s flight from the busy Front Range. It has an amorphous image. Locals think “Middle Park” when they consider the long expanse from Berthoud Pass north to Granby and west to Hot Sulphur Springs. Alpine skiers and snowboarders think of it mostly as Winter Park, peripherally as an adventure backcountry venue atop Berthoud Pass, and secondarily for Granby Ski Ranch, the current name for a smaller ski resort that has gone by many monikers in few years. The ranchers, railroaders, and miners who are still scattered across Grand County are conscious of the governmental entity that administers Middle Park and environs. However you think of it, consider that this area, so close to metro Denver yet separated from it, is a winter recreationist’s paradise of rugged, snow-blessed mountains and pastoral meadows. It offers a rare combination of full resort amenities, uncrowded backcountry routes, and wide-open spaces. The Indian Peaks and Never Summer Ranges comprise Grand County’s eastern wall, with Gore Range to the west, Rabbit Ears Range to the north, and the Colorado River and several important tributaries running through it. Most of Middle Park is controlled by either the U.S. Forest Service (Arapaho National Forest) or the Bureau of Land Management, so development can only occur in limited areas. Amid all these soaring peaks, many open space tracts remain. For recreationists who treasure the backcountry, this is a very good thing, because golf and secondhome fever is spreading across private land, primarily on the valley floor, and the overall sense of remoteness is rapidly being compromised. Visitors centers, sporting goods stores, and other outlets distribute the free “Winter Park & Fraser Valley Trail Guide,” which includes snowshoeing opportunities both on public and private land.

241 COLORADO

Winter Park and Granby

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242 Snowshoeing

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Winter Park and Granby Berthoud Pass, an 11,315-foot mountain pass, is the southern gateway into Middle Park. It is also the name of Colorado’s first lift-served ski area, built in 1938 at the crest of the pass on the Continental Divide. The lifts are now gone but the terrain they once served (and later, briefly, snowcats plied) remains a backcountry skier’s and snowboarder’s haven. Winter Park Resort, at the bottom of Berthoud Pass, is one of Colorado’s most popular ski areas and a summer mountain biking mecca. Many of the bike trails at and near the ski area translate perfectly to snowshoeing, and the local mountain bike map is also an excellent winter resource. Winter Park also introduced on-mountain snowshoe tours before the activity really caught on, and snowshoe tours remain popular. The resort is now embarking on a major real estate development at the base of the lifts, which is bound to change visitors’ patterns. The town of Winter Park is still little more than a commercial strip along U.S. 40, rather than a town or village with a definable center. Its businesses cater to skiers and other visitors.

Nearby Fraser, which has the supermarket, the hardware store, and other community services, has added shops and restaurants of interest to tourists too. For general visitor information, contact the Winter Park/Fraser Valley Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 3236, Winter Park, CO 80482; (800) 903-7275, (970) 726-4118, (303) 422-0666 (Denver line), or (970) 4220666 (customer service). To order a general tourism brochure from the Grand County Tourism Board, call (800) 729-5821. GETTING THERE U.S. 40 is Middle

Park’s main street, with Winter Park, Fraser, Tabernash, Granby, and Hot Sulphur Springs strung out along it. To reach this highway, take Interstate 70 west to Exit 232. Drive through Empire (slowly, for this is a wellknown speed trap) and over Ber thoud Pass. Winter Park is 67 miles from Denver on U.S. 40. Continue along U.S. 40 to the other towns, or turn right (east) onto U.S. 34 for Grand Lake.

NORTHERN Winter Park and Granby

Trail 135 BUTLER GULCH TRAIL ◆ Challenging Distance • 2 miles (one way) to treeline Avalanche hazard • Low to moderate, including some easily avoided slide paths Starting elevation • 10,320 feet Highest elevation • 11,350 feet Elevation difference • 1,030 feet Snowmobiles • Only on the first 0.25 mile (Jones Pass Rd.) Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #103, Winter Park, Central City, Rollins Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Berthoud Pass

From Denver and other Front Range cities, this trailhead and route is reached before driving over Berthoud Pass, which many people consider a good thing, plain and simple. Locals know the pass can be slick, and it is periodically closed for avalanche control work. To reach Butler Gulch, take U.S. 40 through Empire and make a sharp left at the first hairpin turn at 7.3 miles, at the Henderson Mine and Big Bend Picnic Area signs, just as the road starts steeply up toward the pass.

Follow the plowed road, keeping to the right at the first intersection, and paralleling the west fork of Clear Creek, to the parking area across from the large Henderson Mine complex. The parking area is on the mine’s land, so be sure to respect all private property signage and do not block the road. Begin snowshoeing up the heavily used and unplowed Jones Pass Rd. (Forest Service Road 144). At 0.25 mile, take the left (south) fork, which is Butler Gulch Rd. (Forest Service Road 092) and ascend for about 0.5 mile. Cross the creek as it cuts through a meadowed area before beginning an even steeper ascent to and through the trees. The route switchbacks to the left and then bends to the right to head south, and the gully widens into a huge basin enfolded in a panorama of high ridges and peaks. The left side (east) is the safest route into this basin, because there are slide runouts on the right. Telemark skiers and snowboarders often continue hiking past the treeline to make their powder runs. If snow conditions are stable, it is possible to snowshoe up to an old mine. Especially on weekends when the route is crowded, be sure to stay to one side when you are snowshoeing, particularly on narrow parts, because skiers move fast on the downhill. Snowmobilers use the lower portion as far as the right fork soon after the trailhead to access Jones Pass Rd. (Forest Service Road 144). Not only is the Jones Pass Rd. more difficult, but it also has heavy snowmobile traffic and is threatened with significantly more avalanche hazard areas, so it not recommended for snowshoeing, except perhaps in midweek and only when snow conditions are reported to be stable.

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Empire, a tiny town on U.S. 40, is not in Grand County but is its southern gateway. Additionally, it is the only place between Interstate 70 and Winter Park where you can get a tank of gas, a cup of espresso, or a speeding ticket. Local businesses are geared to fuel travelers, and the local constabulary is alert for drivers who try to pass through too fast.

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Winter Park and Granby Trail 136 COLORADO MINES PEAK ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 1.3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to moderate Starting elevation • 11,315 feet Highest elevation • 12,493 feet Elevation difference • 1,178 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #103, Winter Park, Central City, Rollins Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Berthoud Pass, Empire

Many people who drive over Berthoud Pass have looked up at the distinctive communications towers high above the east side of the road without a clue as to the name of the rounded mountain on which they perch. It is Colorado Mines Peak, with an undramatic and undistinguished appearance, but a worthy destination that offers more altitude than attitude. An unpaved road (Forest Service Road 249) from just beside the Berthoud Pass parking area to these towers makes a good snowshoe route. If avalanche hazards are reported to be low, you can ascend well above the treeline on a route whose challenge comes from a high elevation and often rough winds. Begin snowshoeing up the service road to the open slope where a chairlift was once located. The road’s switchbacks make long loops through the coniferous woods. As you climb toward and above the treeline, the views only get better, first on the left, then on the right. Even as the views improve, though, the winds might get stronger. The slope angle here is steep but steady, so when the snowpack is stable, you can shortcut the hairpins and climb as straight up or down as you wish. At or near the 12,493-foot summit, you’ll see how different the communications paraphernalia

looks up close from what you might have expected just looking up at it. If you reach the top, you’ll be astride the Continental Divide. This road is also a good choice for a full-moon hike on a clear, wind-still night, although you probably won’t be going much beyond the former ski area’s top station.

Winter Park and Fraser Winter Park, on the north side of Berthoud Pass, is Middle Park’s winter sports centerpiece and is one of Colorado’s oldest continuously operating ski areas. It has grown from a small winter getaway by the railroad tracks into a huge Alpine skiing and snowboarding center beloved by generations of Coloradans, and now it is poised to develop into a full-fledged resort with lodging at the base. Winter Park’s Alpine skiing pedigree is secure, and it has been a pioneer in embracing snowshoeing as a way to help nonskiers appreciate the mountains. One thing this resort offers that no other recreational area state does is the sheer joy of being able to take a day trip from Denver by train. The Winter Park Ski Train operates Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, plus some holidays, between Denver’s Union Station and the base of the Winter Park ski area. From there, snowshoers can hop dedicated shuttles to destinations such as Devil’s Thumb Ranch Resort (see page 250) or take free shuttle buses to trailheads elsewhere in the county. For Ski Train details and reservations, contact (303) 296-4754 or go to www.skitrain.com. For Winter Park Resort information, call (970) 726-5514 or go to www.winterparkresort.com.

NORTHERN Winter Park and Granby

● Easy Distance • 1.5 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,220 feet Highest elevation • 9,280 feet Elevation difference • 60 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • None necessar y, but for the record, relevant maps are Trails Illustrated #103, Winter Park, Central City, Rollins Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Fraser, East Portal; USGS 7.5-Minute, Empire

Across U.S. 40 from the main Winter Park Resort entrance is a large sign to the BonfilsStanton Foundation Nature Trail and a large parking lot, which the resort has labeled Lot G. This easy nature trail begins at the well-marked trailhead. Take a look at the trailhead sign with a map showing the route as a combination of

Discovery Trail, Picnic Spur, and Challenger Trail. It begins on a wooden walkway, which in summer is a wheelchair-accessible nature trail through a wetland but in winter is blanketed in snow. It winds through bushes and under the large beige pipe that is part of Denver’s water supply and past a summer picnic area. To make the loop, watch for a trail on the left after about 0.4 mile, which leads down a short incline and over another small bridge. When you are on another wooden walkway, stop and look up the valley to the right for a fantastic view of the cirque at the head of Jim Creek, and to the left at the slopes of the Winter Park ski area. At the intersection with Challenger Trail, bear left to return to the parking lot or right for a short detour to some frozen-over ponds. The return to the trailhead includes another wooden walkway that crosses over more wetlands and the large water pipe, then through the woods for a short distance.

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Winter Park and Granby Trail 138 JIM CREEK ■ Moderate Distance • 2.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Moderate in places, but avoidable Starting elevation • 9,220 feet Highest elevation • 10,060 feet Elevation difference • 840 feet Snowmobiles • Permitted on the wide road at the beginning of the route (beyond the nature trail) Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #103, Winter Park, Central City, Rollins Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Fraser, East Portal

This is the first fine snowshoeing route once you’ve descended from Berthoud Pass. Because it is so easy to reach from the Front Range, as well as by Winter Park visitors, it is, not surprisingly, very popular. The trailhead is at the Bonfils-Stanton Foundation Nature Trail parking area (Lot G), on the right (east) side of U.S. 40, directly across from the main Winter Park Resort entrance. First take the Discovery Trail across a frozen marshy area (see trail description above), then follow a wide, smooth, unplowed road that leads to the Jim Creek trailhead at 9,300 feet and 0.8 mile from the parking area. The route first follows the south side of the creek, where you will see many signs of human activity as it passes close to a summer campground, under a large tan water pipe that is part of the Denver water system, and a small dam. This is the area where you might encounter snowmobiles.

Novice snowshoers or anyone looking for a shorter, or at least flatter, hike can simply follow this water board service road out and back as far as they like, turning right (southwest) to return to U.S. 40, 1.5 miles from the intersection. However, continuing straight through the aqueduct intersection puts you on Jim Creek Trail, marked by a wooden sign. This trail, which is narrower and does not get snowmobile use, appears on the map as a straightforward trail, heading east and then southeast, paralleling Jim Creek. However, stream crossings and clearings in the evergreen forest sometimes make it tricky to follow, especially after a midweek snowfall when there has been little traffic. The steadily climbing trail narrows and makes one short, sharp bend to the left about 1 mile from the trailhead. It then straightens out again, continuing east past creekside willow thickets, where moose have recently been sighted, and into a thick forest of spruce and fir away from the stream. The trees periodically open up into clearings with tantalizing views. About 1.3 miles later, you will enter an open meadow, the last on the most popular part of the route, where you can see an avalanche chute across the creek. Stay on the right (south) side of the creek to avoid this chute. Soon after that, a large snowbank usually builds up, blocking the right side of the trail. Climb over it, still following the creek, to a large clearing with a great view of James Peak straight ahead. Return the way you came.

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Distance • 2 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,574 feet Highest elevation • 9,000 feet Elevation difference • 426 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • None necessary, but relevant map is USGS 7.5-Minute, Fraser, West Portal

The Fraser River Trail is a paved multi-use recreational trail totaling 5 miles in length and stretching down-valley as far as Fraser, but the 2 miles or so between the town of Winter Park and the base of the Winter Park ski area generally offer good conditions for snowshoeing. There are several access points in Winter Park, including a crossing of U.S. 40. From the town end, the trail is just east of the highway and west of the Fraser River. The trail closely parallels the road and leads through stands of trees and intermittent meadows before crossing the river and traversing the highway to the west side for its final gentle climb, paralleling the river directly to the ski area base. You can snowshoe the Fraser River Trail out and back from either direction or, under good snow conditions, follow it to Fraser. If you want to do it one way, Winter Park’s free shuttle buses can take you back to your starting point.

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● Easy

Winter Park-Fraser Trail System Laced through Forest Service land west of U.S. 40 is an amazing network of more than 600 miles of unpaved roads and trails. In summer, this comprises one of the country’s finest mountain bike systems. In winter, it is used by snowshoers, cross-country skiers, and snowmobilers, though snowmobiles are concentrated on some of the routes. Trail use is free. You will find the entire system on the Trails Illustrated #103 Winter Park, Central City, Rollins Pass map. Much is also covered on the USGS 7.5-Minute, Fraser topographic map, and some trails are on the Byers Peak and Bottle Pass topos. Also be sure to get a free Grand County Trail Map at visitors centers, some local retailers, or through the Headwaters Trail Alliance, (970) 887-1174 or www.headwaters trails.com. Because there is considerable cross-seasonal overlap, another useful and free resource is the mountain bike trail map at the visitors center in downtown Winter Park, sporting goods shops, and other outlets that, along with relevant topos, provides a very good image of the distances and elevation gains of various trails. The trail system combines easy access with a feeling of remoteness and isolation, especially when snowmobiles are out of earshot. You can reach one of the densest concentrations of trails 1 mile west of downtown Winter Park. From U.S. 40 west, turn west onto Vasquez Rd., crossing the railroad tracks at 0.4 mile. Either turn left again onto Arapaho Rd. for another 0.4 mile to the Little Vasquez trailhead or continue straight on Vasquez Rd. for 1 mile to Van Anderson Rd. Without a four-wheel-drive vehicle, you might have to park here and proceed up the road on foot. If your vehicle is up for the day’s conditions, you will find small parking pullouts every few hundred feet, starting about 1,000 feet from the intersection. Several

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Trail 139 FRASER RIVER TRAIL

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Winter Park and Granby trails intersect with the road or branch off from it. The two other access points are Elk Creek Rd. (Grand County Road 72) and St. Louis Creek Rd. (County Road 73) from Fraser. Some people simply hike along these roads and the wider trails while others make loops of various lengths on narrow trails. The lowest elevation of this trail system is around 8,500 feet; the highest points reach up toward the Vasquez Peak Wilderness and the Byers Peak Wilderness, which are significant in both distance and elevation gain and include avalanche-prone areas. The lower trails are more than enough to hold most snowshoers’ interest for many visits, as well as being safer routes. Such a huge network of interlaced trails requires good maps like those above, a compass, and a willingness to pay attention and turn back, retracing your steps if you are confused. Much of the trail system leads through dense woods, although there are some open meadows and clear-cut areas. From various points along the trail network are tantalizing glimpses of the Continental Divide, many mountains on both sides of Middle Park, and the ski trails served by Winter Park’s Vasquez lift. Snowmobiles are permitted on some of the wider forest roads; narrower paths and all trails in the wilderness are for non-motorized use only. Most of the trails have both names and numbers. At trail intersections, there are black sign posts designating trail numbers and trail uses, which also appear on the bike trail map. However, some of these signs are buried in snow in winter, so look near the snow surface. Although the signs give the letter/number designation, locals tend to refer to their favorite trails by name. Among the popular ones closest to Winter Park are Elk Creek, Chainsaw, Blue Sky, and Zoom. The Fraser Experimental Forest, tucked in between the Vasquez Peak Wilderness and the Byers Peak Wilderness, is a key compo-

nent to this trail system. Accessed from County Road 73, the Experimental Forest’s roughly 25 miles of unplowed roadways have traditionally permitted snowmobiles on the east side of Road 73 and only non-motorized activities on the west side. Because of the impact of motorized activities on the trees that are being studied, regulations have been re-evaluated, and motorized use within the experimental forest will end just about at the time this edition of Snowshoeing Colorado is released. Therefore, snowmobiles will be prohibited beginning with the 2004-05 winter. You’ll find a vast medley of short loops, long one-way trails, flats, and steeps, but rarely will you encounter crowds. Spruce Creek Trail, Deadhorse Trail, and St. Louis Creek Loop (see Trail 140) rank among the top trails.

Winter Park offers snowshoe opportunities both at the ski area and on a vast system of free local trails. (Photo by Byron Hetzler, courtesy of Winter Park Resort)

NORTHERN Winter Park and Granby

■ Moderate Distance • 4.4 miles (loop with shortcut); 5.9 miles (regular route) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,058 feet Highest elevation • 9,515 feet Elevation difference • 457 feet Snowmobiles • No on West St. Louis Creek Trail; yes (for now) on St. Louis Creek Trail Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #103, Winter Park, Central City, Rollins Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Bottle Pass

To reach this loop, which is a traditional skitouring favorite gaining popularity with snowshoers, take Elk Creek Rd. (Grand Country Road 72) south from U.S. 40 in Fraser for 0.3 mile and pass under the railroad tracks. Turn right (west) onto Fraser Parkway for 0.8 mile. After the road curves, it intersects with St. Louis Creek Rd. (Grand County Road 73/Forest Development Road 160). Turn left (west) and continue 3.8 miles to the parking area, which is on the right. The mostly sheltered route leads through a mixed forest of conifers—lodgepole pines here, fir and spruce trees there. You will pass a handful of structures, some historic from past uses and some contemporary, some involved with forest research and others with snow depth measures. You could do this loop in either direction, but counterclockwise is the most popular. In this direction, the trail follows the West St. Louis Creek drainage outbound and St. Louis Creek on the return. The trail begins from the west end of the parking area and heads west through the trees. It joins briefly with a wider road, then

continues again as a narrow trail, and soon trends toward the southwest. Be on the lookout for three trail junctions, staying left or straight at each to make a loop. The first is at Deadhorse Creek Rd., and the second, at the St. Louis Creek Trail’s farthest reach, is at the Byers Peak Rd., 2.2 miles from the trailhead. After the Deadhorse Creek junction, the route widens into a road, which makes a sharp switchback at the junction with the Byers Peak Trail and begins heading east. Keep an eye out for a high green metal vent stack on the left. Look down at an open swath cut down a short, steep hill. This is not an officially sanctioned trail, but a Water Board pipe cut through the trees. However, skiers and snowshoers use it all the time to slingshot straight down into the St. Louis Creek drainage. Skiers schuss or snowplow it, and snowshoers glissade, especially if the snow is soft. If you are sharing this unofficial cut-off with skiers, hug the side of the trail, because speed with no guarantee of control is the skier’s hallmark of this short, thrilling descent. And, another “if ”: glissading down the straight, steep pitch is fun, but if you do the loop in a clockwise direction, this pitch makes for a daunting climb. Many people prefer to avoid the steep downhill shortcut and to stick to official routes, continuing on the main route at the vent stack toward the southwest. Just after the Byers Creek crossing, the trail makes another sharp switchback where it joins St. Louis Creek Rd. (Forest Service Road 160). Take a sharp left at the switchback, past the Byers Creek Campground, and head back toward the northeast. The road passes a junction with the King Creek Loop Rd. (Forest Service Road 159), where again you stay straight or left. This is the regular route that, while avoiding the steep

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Trail 140 ST. LOUIS CREEK LOOP

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Winter Park and Granby section, adds nearly 2 miles to the hike. When you reach the St. Louis Creek Rd. (Forest Service Road 160), turn left for the return to the trailhead. The road descends gently, passes the Fraser Experimental Forest Headquarters and parallels a long fence. At the end of the fence, go left for a few steps to the short road back to the parking area. Alpine and Nordic Resor ts Winter Park Resort. Although snowshoers are technically and legally permitted on all trails within the resort’s boundaries at no charge, the ski area’s management discourages it for safety reasons—and in truth, most of the trails do not lend themselves to pleasurable snowshoeing. Directions for self-guided snowshoe hikes, as well as rentals, are available at the Balcony House at the base of the Winter Park side. One nice route is a loop combining Turnpike and 300 Yard Walk, two of the several novice ski trails on the north end of the Winter Park section of the ski area. Keep to the edge of the much-used Turnpike, because the legion of beginning skiers who use it may have a hard time steering around upward-bound snowshoers. The ski trail called 300 Yard Walk, which passes the top of Winter Park’s ski jumps, is so flat that it’s little used by skiers and presents few problems for snowshoers. For a high-mountain experience without a major climb and without any confusion over where to go, consider a guided snowshoe tour. Groups leave the base area at 10:30 A.M. daily and at 1:30 P.M. Fridays through Sundays for a two-hour trek through the woods on summer mountain biking trails and game trails near Discovery Park. The fee includes use of snowshoes and poles as well as a single-ride lift ticket. Information and reservations for guided hikes are available at the Tour Center desk in Balcony House at the Winter Park base; call (970) 726-5514 or (800) 729-7907.

Devil’s Thumb Ranch Resort . Long known as one of America’s premier crosscountry ski facilities, Devil’s Thumb Ranch has steadily gained a reputation as an extraordinary snowshoeing center as well. Snowshoers are permitted on more than 100 kilometers (more than 60 miles) of cross-country ski trails, so long as they stay off the classical tracks. In addition, they are allowed access to more than 20 kilometers of flagged snowshoeing-only trails that wind their way through the forest. Snowshoers can take a relaxed big-foot hike, studying the animal tracks in the snow, traversing the meadows among the trees, and enjoying the unsurpassed tranquility without becoming disoriented or concerned about getting lost or getting in the way of fast-moving skate skiers. If you are a beginner, you can’t find a better trail than the Creekside Trail, a gentle route connecting two mellow Nordic trails with a crossing of Ranch Creek. If you are experienced and enjoy a little climbing, you have two more challenging options. Devil’s Thumb’s pros call Blackhawk by the nickname Black

Devil’s Thumb Ranch spreads across the wide, rolling countryside of southern Grand County against the scenic backdrop of the Indian Peaks. (Photo by Claire Walter)

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many a snowshoe race too (see below). Contact Devil’s Thumb Ranch, P.O. Box 750, Tabernash, CO 80478; (970) 726-8231 for snowshoeing information. For lodging reservations, call (800) 933-4339 or (970) 7265632. For Ranch House Restaurant reservations, call (970) 726-5633. The ranch also offers winter horseback riding, sleighrides, skating on a small frozen pond, and other activities. For more information, call (970) 726-1099. The Web site for all facilities and services is www.devilsthumbranch.com.

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Five for its 5-kilometer (3.1-mile) length, steady climbs, welcome descents, sinewy sections snaking through a beautiful ponderosa pine forest, straightaways across open meadows, and those wonderful views for which Devil’s Thumb is known. Moose Stomp is the most scenic of the four designated snowshoeing trails. This languorous loop of nearly 7 kilometers (almost 5 miles) offers a matchless assortment of everything a trail in this area can have: ponderosa pines, willows along a creek, and glorious stands of aspen. A spur trail adds 0.5 mile and a climb to Vista Point at the 9,075-foot summit of Marker Hill, the highest point on the trail system. Redtail is about 10 kilometers and connects to Moose Stomp for a total loop of about 13 kilometers. It winds through aspen and lodgepole forests, meadows and willow areas, and passes an old aqueduct and the cabin remaining from an old homestead. Lacing through the woods and open spaces not far from the day lodge and ski/snowshoe shop is an off-trail snowshoe area inviting free-form exploration. Devil’s Thumb Ranch can be a day trip for Front Range snowshoers, a change of pace from nearby Winter Park’s Alpine slopes, or a vacation destination in its own right. The resort operates a handful of small and charming cabins and a few lodge rooms that accommodate a small number of guests in a relaxing setting, and the Ranch House Restaurant and Saloon, located in a 1937 homestead, has gained a reputation for fine food and a romantic atmosphere. To reach it, drive north from Fraser and turn right (east) onto Cabin Meadow Rd. (Grand County Road 8). Pass through a residential subdivision and turn left (north) at the sign to the resort. It also operates a free weekend shuttle to Winter Park and Fraser, including connections to the Ski Train. The shuttle runs by reservation at other times, so staying at the ranch does not mean mandatory isolation. The cross-country center has been the site of

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Snowshoe Races Frozen Toe Tromp & Glide. This event, which benefits the Victim Assistance Team of Grand County, combines snowshoe and crosscountry ski racing. For information, call the Devil’s Thumb Ranch Nordic Center at (970)725-3442 or go to www.gcadvocates.org.

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Salomon Nordic Snowshoe Series.

Cross-country racing at several distances but snowshoeing at just one—5 kilometers— comprise this early-season tradition that started at Devil’s Thumb Ranch but has also been held at the Frisco Nordic Center. For details on the current season’s location, call (303) 635-2815 or go to www.emgcolorado.com. Wild Hare Snowshoe Race. This annual 5K women’s race and 5K non-competitive snowshoe hike held at Devil’s Thumb Ranch Resort benefits the Colorado Coalition Against Sexual Assault and is generally scheduled for late February. For information and registration materials, contact The Sporting Woman, 2902 East Third Ave., Denver, CO 80206; (303) 316-8392; www.thesportingwoman.com.

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Winter Park and Granby GRANBY’S TOWN CENTER STILL EPITOMIZES small-town Colorado. It was

built on ranching and railroading in what urbanites used to dismiss as the boondocks. Only recently have people begun to value the wide-open valleys on the northern end of Middle Park. Two of this region’s most snowshoer-friendly facilities—Snow Mountain Ranch and Granby Ski Ranch —are just off U.S. 40, shortly before you get to the center of Granby. Tourist information is available from the Greater Granby Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 35, Granby, CO 80446; (970) 887-2311 or (800) 325-1661; www.granbychamber.com. Kremmling resembles Granby in that both are small, laid-back commercial centers serving vast rural areas for miles around. It’s tall-hat, high-on-a-horse, elbow-stretching country, where you just want to be on the move. The town considers itself as a centrally located, lowcost base for winter recreation in the Grand Lake and Winter Park areas, as well as Rabbit Ears Pass and even Summit County and the Vail Valley. Tourist information is available from the Kremmling Area Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 471, Kremmling, CO 80459; (970) 724-3472 and (877) 573-4263; www.kremmlingchamber.com.

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C Lazy U’s Nordic Nook supplies traditional or contemporary snowshoes to guests. It is one of several facilities in the Granby area catering to snowshoers. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Alpine and Nordic Resor ts Snow Mountain Ranch/YMCA of the Rockies. This huge spread—5,100 acres of

forests, meadows, and private mountains—is a distinctive resort that isn’t a resort, a retreat that isn’t tranquil or retreatlike, an educational place that is fun. Church and school groups, families, and especially groups of seniors come to experience winter sports and the winter environment. Snow Mountain Ranch, an excellent cross-country ski center, was one of the first places in the country to commit to snowshoeing. That happened back in the mid-1980s, before snowshoeing was hot, when one of the Y’s hiking guides introduced a snowshoeing program to keep his type of activity going in the winter. Now, when groups come to Snow Mountain Ranch, an interpretive snowshoeing tour is invariably offered, and guided naturalist tours are available for all guests. If you know a teenager on the Front Range, chances are

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dedicated snowshoe area before ascending a steep hill called Clint’s Climb. When you stop to catch your breath, look across the valley over the crown of aspen trees to Devil’s Thumb and the ragged profile of the Indian Peaks Wilderness’s highest summits. After another steep climb to the top of 9 Mile Mountain, your reward is a breathtaking 360-degree panorama. Rentals are available on-site at the Nordic center. Trail use is free for overnight guests. A very modest fee, officially a “one-day membership” to the Y, for everyone else includes use of winter trails and also such facilities as the

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that he or she has visited Snow Mountain Ranch on such a winter school trip. Snowshoers are not permitted on cross-country ski trails, but a 300-acre dedicated snowshoe area and three trails totaling almost 12.5 miles are set aside only for snowshoers and for crosscountry skiers with dogs. In addition to the trails, the ranch invites—in fact, encourages— people to explore the dense lodgepole forest. If you wander through the woods, look for evidence of wildlife. Just poking around, you can go in any way that seems interesting. It’s easy to find your way back to a trail just by going straight in any direction.

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Snow Mountain Ranch/YMCA is as much about education as recreation. Here, students from a Front Range school experience the winter environment. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Both Peter’s Trail and the Dirt Camp Trail are 3.1-mile loops, and the lower portion of 9 Mile Trail, in combination with the Aspen Grove, makes an even longer route. Peter’s is a flat loop through the woods, and Dirt Camp Trail adds a long descent into a shallow creek drainage and a gentle ascent on the other side, plus some open areas with fine views to the north. Capping this snowshoeing network is the 9 Mile Trail, which is not 9 miles long but ascends to 9 Mile Mountain’s 9,681-foot summit. The trail winds west along the edge of the

indoor pool and sauna, skating rink, and gym. Snow Mountain Ranch/YMCA, 1101 County Road 53, Granby, CO 80446; (970) 887-2152 or (303) 443-4743 (Denver line); www.ymcarockies.org.

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Winter Park and Granby Granby Ranch. Formerly called SolVista Golf

& Ski Ranch and before that Silver Creek Resort and before that SilverCreek, this fastgrowing development with a family-friendly ski area is located just off U.S. 40, 78 miles from Denver and 13 miles beyond Winter Park. Occupying the side of a broad valley surrounded by rounded ridges and gentle hills, it isn’t so much in the mountains as it is near the mountains. Self-contained, compact, and safe, it appeals mainly to skiing families. It’s less known as a sweet spot for snowshoers as well. The 40 kilometers (nearly 25 miles) of Nordic trails are groomed for both classic skiing and skating. Snowshoers are welcome on the main trails and asked to keep off the classic tracks. In addition, there are several snowshoespecific trails. The Alpine skiing at SolVista Basin is on two modest mountains, with the trails for snowshoeing and Nordic skiing flared out behind them. You can access them by snowshoeing about 200 vertical feet up Lone Pine Bowl, the gully between these two mountains, by ascending along the sides of any of the thirty-three ski trails or by purchasing a foot pass, good for one lift ride per day. Most of the Nordic trails are laid out as elongated ovals that stretch through the aspen and conifer forest and are linked with short connectors, providing a great variety of routes. The layout resembles a layer cake. The three easiest—Low Rd., Middle Rd., and Long Hill Loop—are on the bottom,

stacked one over the other in the open area above Lone Pine Bowl. The next layer is composed of the hillier ones—High Rd., Silver Spur, and Silver Ridge Trails—and above them is the steeper Cabin Trail, named for the old cabins it passes. The upper trails lace through gorgeous aspen and conifer woods. You can get a good workout by ascending from the 8,202-foot ski area base to the upper reaches of the trail system, but if you prefer a mellow walk, hop on the Quick Draw chairlift to save 1,000 feet of climbing. The views from the Silver Ridge Trail at the top of the lift are fabulous, reaching across sagebrush-covered slopes to the Fraser Valley and the spine of the Continental Divide beyond. The lift ride also saves a lot of time and energy for exploring the lovely trail system and working your way down. Even if you ride up the hill, Cabin Trail crests above the highest lift-served elevation and includes a short, steep section. The rental shop at the base of the lifts carries snowshoes. The resort periodically puts on snowshoe races and other special events, as well as as guided snowshoe hikes every Saturday throughout the season. The tours are free with the purchase of snowshoe rentals. Guides lead guests on a variety of loops depending on ability and desired length. Reservations are required. Granby Ranch/ SolVista, P.O. Box 1110, Granby, CO 80446; (866) 765-8478 or (970) 887-3384; www.solvista.com.

NORTHERN Winter Park and Granby

laid-back Kremmling as it is to any town, which is a way of saying that it is way out in the country. Situated at 9,000 feet on the eastern slope of the Gore Range with views toward the Indian Peaks and Never Summer Ranges, Latigo Ranch is one of Colorado’s finest year-round dude and guest ranches. It has developed a quiet reputation as a Nordic and snowshoeing retreat, both for overnight guests (22 maximum) and for day visitors, who pay a modest trail use fee. More than 35 miles of groomed track across rolling pastureland and through the woods beckon cross-country skiers and snowshoers. Snowshoers are encouraged to stay on the skating lanes, next to but not interfering with the classical tracks. There is also a 0.5mile snowshoe loop right near the lodge for beginners who want to practice snowshoeing before they head out on longer routes, in addition to several snowshoeing trails to scenic points beyond the groomed trail system. Snowshoes are available at the ranch. As well as the ranch’s own 450 acres, snowshoers can explore the adjacent Arapaho and Routt National Forests. The ranch maintains an ambience of Western informality. Accommodations are in cozy cabins with wood-burning stoves and separate sitting areas. Packages include all meals, which are traditionally hearty all-American fare, use of such facilities as the hot tub and recreation building, and gratuities. Latigo Ranch, P.O. Box 237, Kremmling, CO 80459; (800) 227-9655 or (970) 724-9008; www.ranchweb.com/ latigo-ranch/.

Snowshoeing

Latigo Ranch. Latigo is as near to rural,

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Guest Ranches C Lazy U Ranch. Tourism trivia buffs know that the C Lazy U is among the nation’s premier dude ranches, having received five diamonds from AAA for 25 consecutive years and currently holding four stars in the Mobil Travel Guide. But fewer people think of it as a winter haven that sprawls over 8,000 acres of rolling countryside. Ranch guests enjoy about 25 miles of groomed winter trails that range from a short half-miler called Coyote to the 3.6-mile Wilson Trail, which offers gorgeous views of the Willow Creek Reservoir. Some routes cross open meadows, and others slice through thick woods. There are also longer, more challenging backcountry routes, including the demanding Hogback, which may be done only with a ranch guide. Snowshoes are available at the Nordic Nook. Accommodations are stylish and spacious, as befits so highly honored a property, and the meals are abundant and delicious. Activities and facilities included in package rates include trail use, winter trail rides, equestrian activities in the ranch’s indoor riding arena and outdoor rides, heated swimming pool, ice-skating, sledding, tubing, horse-drawn sleigh rides, a full fitness facility and a hot tub. Winter is low season at the C Lazy U, as it is at all guest ranches, so a stay in such classy surroundings is a relative bargain. That does not make it inexpensive, but still, when you sit in the main lodge to watch the sunset and see an elk herd coming down the mesa, you’ll feel as if you are living a National Geographic Special and that you’ve gotten the best value in the world. C Lazy U Ranch, 3640 CO Hwy. 125, P.O. Box 379, Granby, CO 80446; (970) 887-3344; www.clazyu.com.

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GETTING THERE From Denver, take Interstate 70 west to U.S. Hwy . 40 west (Exit

232) through Empire, over Ber thoud Pass and past Winter Park, Fraser, and Granby Ski Ranch (SolVista). Just before entering Granby, turn right (east) on U.S. 34 and travel 14 miles north into Grand Lake Village and the western entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. The total distance from Denver is 102 miles.

Snowshoeing

GRAND LAKE VILLAGE and the trails on the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park rank among Colorado’s best-kept winter secrets. Only about two hours from metro Denver, the village center remains a low-key charmer, with a casually paved main street, board sidewalks, and a dose of uncontrived, laid-back quirkiness. The summer population is 5,000. In winter, fewer than 500 people call Grand Lake Village home, and if you spend a few days around town while exploring the nearby trails, you’ll quickly begin spotting familiar faces and feeling at home yourself. This quaint town boasts tourist cabins and inns rather than chain motels, a real downtown instead of strip malls, and one-of-a-kind shops and restaurants instead of cloned fast-food joints. As such, it would be a refreshing and appealing place even without the excellent snowshoeing. In summer, Grand Lake Village is full of sightseers who drive over Trail Ridge Rd. (see the Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side chapter) and boaters who come for Colorado’s largest natural lake (namesake Grand Lake). In winter, the area is a haven for snowshoers, skiers, and snowmobilers, but it rarely gets so crowded that these activities are in serious conflict. The Kawuneeche Visitor Center, just inside the park boundary, which is open all winter, can provide maps and advice on good snowshoeing routes. The Grand Lake Entrance Station is just north of the visitors center, and although the Park Service doesn’t particularly like to promote it, there are a couple of trails out of Grand Lake beyond the fee area. The Grand Lake area is a popular snowmobiling destination, but there’s gratifyingly little conflict between motorized and non-motorized recreation, because snowmobiles are now prohibited in Rocky Mountain National Park. This means that other interesting winter routes outside the park see heavy snowmobile traffic from both organized tours and independent riding on national forest roads. Within the park, Trail Ridge Rd. is plowed for about 10 miles, as far as the Colorado River trailhead, and the sizable parking lot with a restroom open in winter, is plowed as well. For resort information, contact the Grand Lake Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 57, Grand Lake, CO 80447; (800) 531-1019 or (970) 627-3402; www.grandlakechamber.com. For general Rocky Mountain National Park information, call (970) 586-1206, and for trail information, snow conditions, or specific information on the west side of the park, contact the Kawuneeche Visitor Center at (970) 586-1513. The park’s Web site is www.nps.gov/romo/.

257 COLORADO

Rocky Mountain National Park—West Side

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Rocky Mountain National Park—West Side Trail 141 KNIGHT RIDGE TRAIL/EAST SHORE TRAIL ■ ● Moderate from Arapaho Bay to Columbine Bay; easy from Grand Lake Village to Shadow Mountain Dam Distance • 7.6 miles from Arapaho Bay to Columbine Bay (southern section); 3.5 miles from Grand Lake Village to Shadow Mountain Dam (northern section) Avalanche hazard • Low, except for directly under Shadow Mountain Starting elevation • 8,280 feet (8,300 feet at the Roaring Fork Campground; 8,400 feet at the Grand Lake trailhead) Highest elevation • 9,070 feet (on Knight Ridge) Elevation difference • 790 feet, plus many mild ascents and descents Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Leashed, and only on the southern portion outside of RMNP; not allowed in the park Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS 7.5-Minute, Shadow Mountain

This long trail, which is composed of two segments, follows the eastern shores of Lake Granby and Shadow Mountain Lake. One segment is between Arapaho Bay and Shadow Mountain Dam, and the other is between Shadow Mountain Dam and Grand Lake Village. The Knight Ridge Trail and the Monarch Lake Trail (below) are part of the Arapaho National Recreation Area, which is a yearround fee area. The first 5.5 miles of the Knight Ridge Trail and under 1 mile from the Grand Lake access fall under the jurisdiction of the U.S. Forest Service. Snowshoers must do

the route in segments, as either out-and-back or car-shuttle hikes, because a 2.5-mile stretch of the summer trail flanking the fragment of the Colorado River between Columbine Bay at the head of Lake Granby’s Grand Bay and Shadow Mountain Dam is closed from November 15 to March 15 to protect bald eagles. The mid-section from the Twin Creek Ranger Station to the park boundary are under the U.S. Park Service. For many snowshoers, the bottom line is that dogs are prohibited on any but the southern portion of the trail, which is administered by the Forest Service. To reach the southeast end of the trail, take U.S. 34 west 8.9 miles from Grand Lake or east 5.4 miles from Granby. Turn left from Grand Lake or right from Granby onto unpaved Grand County Road 6. You will find a convenient fee station just after the turn-off. Follow this partially paved road for 8.6 miles along the south shore of Lake Granby to the Arapaho Bay Campground entrance. The Shadow Mountain Dam access, about two-thirds of the way along the route (from the southeastern end), is closer to town and enables you to avoid the longest, steepest section of the Knight Ridge Trail. It is 3 miles from Grand Lake and 11 miles from Granby, with a parking lot just off U.S. 34, on the east side of the highway. The northern trailhead, just outside the village center of Grand Lake, is the most complicated to reach. From U.S. 34, head east toward Grand Lake Village. As you descend the hill toward town, turn right onto Lakefront Rd. and follow it to Marina Dr., where you take a left. Take a right onto Lakeside Dr. and cross a bridge, where the road becomes Shoreline Ln. The parking area and the trailhead are 0.4 mile farther at the end of the road. The roads described here lead through residential areas

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and are confusing, so don’t hesitate to get directions while looking for this trailhead. When you hike from Arapaho Bay Camp ground toward Grand Lake, the water is always to your left. From this trailhead, begin snowshoeing on the Knight Ridge Trail (Forest Service Trail #6), cross the Roaring Fork over a wooden footbridge, continue northwest over a small dike alongside frozen beaver ponds, and pass the summer trailhead to the Roaring Fork Trail on the right. The Knight Ridge Trail enters a lodgepole forest and emerges from the trees as the trail begins ascending the steep and treeless slope above Lake Granby’s eastern shore. This section of the trail is often snowfree, due to wind and sun exposure, so you might have to remove your snowshoes for this portion of the hike—or consider it the turnaround point of an out-and-back snowshoe. Above McDonald Cove, the trail steepens more as it climbs up Knight Ridge itself, with switchbacks to ease the climb. This is the highest part of the trail, and the views from the top are excellent. The 1.5-mile ridge-top section leads through fine aspen groves, where you might well see elk and deer tracks and perhaps some herds. On the descent from the ridge, the trail reenters the lodgepoles. The fairly level and easy northern section, by regulation disconnected with the southern portion during the winter, is very pretty as it flirts with the lakeshore, riverbank, and forest. The route, here called the East Shore Trails, is between Grand Lake Village and the Shadow Mountain Dam, which controls the outflow from Shadow Mountain Reservoir. This level 2.5-mile path leads gently through lodgepoles and willows from the northern trailhead along Shadow Mountain Lake.

■ Moderate Distance • 5.6 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,360 feet Highest elevation • 8,475 feet Elevation difference • 115 feet, plus many ascents and descents totaling about 650 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #102, Indian Peaks, Gold Hill; USGS 7.5-Minute, Monarch Lake

The directions to the trailhead are the same as for the southern end of the Knight Ridge Trail (see above). From Grand Lake, go west on U.S. 34 for 8.9 miles from Grand Lake or east 5.4 miles from Granby. Turn left from Grand Lake or right from Granby onto unpaved Grand County Road 6. Follow it 8.6 miles along the south shore of Lake Granby and park at the Arapaho Bay Campground entrance. Make your way around the winter-closure gate and hike 0.8 mile and about 60 vertical feet up the road through the large Monarch Lake summer parking area to the northwest end of the lake. Pass a small seasonal ranger cabin on your right. You can circumnavigate the lake clockwise (essentially straight ahead) or counterclockwise (to the right and across the dam). If you choose the clockwise direction, you will begin on Cascade Creek Trail and return on the Southside Trail. Monarch Lake is far smaller than Lake Granby or Shadow Mountain Lake, the other two reservoirs comprising the Arapaho National Recreation Area. In addition, it is the gateway to several trails that reach into the nearby Indian Peaks Wilderness, so the feeling is more natural and protected than the two larger lakes, and the Continental Divide Trail

Snowshoeing

Trail 142 MONARCH LAKE TRAIL

259 COLORADO

Rocky Mountain National Park—West Side

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Rocky Mountain National Park—West Side joins it too. A commendable winter trail circles the frozen water. If you go clockwise, the first leg closely follows the shore, providing lovely views along the northeastern side of the lake. No soaring summits, no commanding panoramas, but a feeling of tranquility—and the knowledge that the wilderness is not far away. At the southern end of the lake, the trail bends to right and enters a forest of tall trees. Here, at the head of the lake, it crosses the obvious courses of Buchanan Creek and, after another bend to the right, Arapaho Creek. You will also pass junctions with the Cascade Creek Trail and the Arapaho Pass Trail, both joining your route on the right. These trails lead into the nearby Indian Peaks Wilderness. Summer hikers cross both creeks via sturdy bridges, but in winter, the creeks are frozen and snowcovered. After the second bridge and an intersection with the Continental Divide Trail, the Monarch Lake Trail ascends abruptly and contours along the southwest shore. It is often narrow and undulates significantly, gaining and losing elevation along the way. Keep a sharp eye to the right, where the remnants of an old steam boiler can be seen sticking out of the snow. Continue on the undulating trail to the dam, cross it, bear left at the cabin, and return down the road.

Trail 143 COLORADO RIVER TRAIL TO LULU CITY ● ■ Easy to Shipler Cabins; easy to moderate to Lulu City Distance • 2.5 miles (one way) to Shipler Cabins; 3.7 miles (one way) to Lulu City Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,080 feet (Colorado River trailhead) Highest elevation • 9,200 feet at upper end of Shipler Cabins; 9,400 feet at Lulu City Elevation difference • 120 feet to Shipler Cabins; 320 feet to Lulu City Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS 7.5Minute, Fall River Pass

The most popular and, after the Valley/River Trail Loop, the easiest section of the Colorado River Trail, begins at the Colorado River trailhead at the end of the plowed road. It culminates at the Shipler Cabins, a pair of old miners’ cabins 2.5 miles (one way) and 120 vertical feet from the trailhead, which are sometimes hard to spot in winter. They do make an excellent turnaround point for a shorter outing.

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At the beginning of the hike, go through the summer parking area to the summer trailhead. The route soon crosses four bridges in fairly rapid succession and curves to the right (north), following the Colorado River through such varied terrain as open meadows and woods, rock walls, and open talus slopes. About 1.4 miles from the trailhead and 0.5 mile before Shipler Park, pass by a west-facing slope with avalanche potential, but the Park Service has rerouted and marked a winter trail that deviates from the summer version to avoid the hazard area. Although the cabin site is not high, it is in an open area called Shipler Park that boasts wonderful mountain views. Lulu City, a mining town that thrived for four short years around 1880, is 1.2 miles farther up the trail and 200 feet higher than Shipler Park. Foundations of the few remaining buildings are visible in summer, but in winter you’ll have to rely on the sign because the snow usually buries the remnants of this briefly booming settlement—and even the sign might be snow-covered. In either case, retrace your route to retrace your steps to the trailhead.

● Easy Distance • 0.5 mile (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,903 feet Highest elevation • 8,920 feet Elevation difference • 17 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • None required

This is the shortest, easiest snowshoeing trail in the park. Drive 7.2 miles from the entrance station to the parking lot and summer picnic area on your left. The flat access road to this historic ranch, which was once fishing lodge and then operated as a guest ranch until well into the 1970s, passes through open meadows and crosses the Colorado River. It is an ideal little stretch for small children, who also have the ranch buildings as a goal. Guided Tours Rocky Mountain National Park.

Rangers lead two- to two-and-a-half-hour snowshoeing tours on Sundays from midDecember through mid-March. Currently, beginner tours start at 9:00 A.M. and use gentle terrain; intermediate tours start at 1:00 P.M. and may involve ascents of up to 500 vertical feet. Because the guides do not follow established trails but explore hidden spots, they recommend medium-size snowshoes (not small trail-running models). Participants must use poles. No rental equipment is available in the park, but sporting-goods shops in Grand Lake Village carry rental snowshoes and adjustable poles. Children under eight years are not permitted. Tours are free, and reservations, which are required, are taken up to seven days in advance of the tours. For details, call (970) 627-3471.

Snowshoeing

Trail 144 NEVER SUMMER RANCH RD.

261 COLORADO

Rocky Mountain National Park—West Side

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Rocky Mountain National Park—West Side Trail 145 VALLEY/RIVER TRAIL LOOP

Trail 146 GREEN MOUNTAIN TRAIL

● Easy

■ ◆ Moderate to challenging

Distance • 4.5 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,720 feet Highest elevation • 8,720 feet Elevation difference • Negligible Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS 7.5Minute, Grand Lake

Distance • 1.8 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,790 feet Highest elevation • 9,470 feet Elevation difference • 620 feet of gain, plus 60 feet of loss that must be regained Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS 7.5Minute, Grand Lake

The trailhead is at the marked Harbison Picnic Area, 1 mile north of the Kawunechee Visitor Center on the left (west) side of Trail Ridge Rd. Well designated with orange markers, the trail combines the Valley Trail and the River Trail into one long, skinny loop that runs between the Colorado River and the highway. While technically easy, the distance of 4.5 miles can be a tiring excursion for many people. The Valley Trail portion rolls oh-so-gently through the woods, while the River Trail section is more open and provides fine views. It is more an amble than a hike, though for real beginners or young children on their first snowshoe outing, it is adventure enough. You can do this route in either direction, returning the way you came.

The Green Mountain trailhead is on the right (east) of Trail Ridge Rd., 2.8 miles north of the Grand Lake Entrance Station. The trail is relatively short but can be a haul for some snowshoers as there are two demanding sections, one each at the beginning and near the end of the trail, which ratchet it up in terms of challenge. Though steep in parts, it is satisfying, as it leads from a sheltering forest to a grandiose open area that clearly merits the name “Big Meadows.” (The nearby Tonahutu Trail, which is very popular in summer, is Ute for “big meadow.”) The first hard part of the snowshoe hike is in the beginning, where the trail follows a creek bed and climbs sharply through the forest of mixed conifers and aspens. After about a mile, the grade becomes milder and the view opens up as the trail crosses through

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a frozen-over marshy area and several small footbridges. The eastern end of the trail has a few rolling ascents and descents before climbing to reach the Big Meadows, with a fine display of the dramatic mountains and the Continental Divide. Return the way you came. If You Want a Longer Hike. At Big Meadows is the junction of the Green Mountain Trail with a north–south route paralleling Tonahutu Creek. Go south for 3.2 miles to the Kawuneeche Visitor Center or north for 1.3 miles to a junction with Onahu Creek Trail, which is another 2.9 miles back toward Trail Ridge Rd. There is a significant elevation gain between Green Mountain Trail and Onahu, and either extension lends itself to vehicle shuttle tactics.

● ■ Easy to Summerland Park; easy to moderate to Cascade Falls Distance • 1.4 miles (one way) to Summerland Park; 3.4 miles (one way) to Cascade Falls Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,540 feet Highest elevation • 8,600 feet at Summerland Park; 8,760 feet at Cascade Falls Elevation difference • 60 feet to Summerland Park; 220 feet to Cascade Falls Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS 7.5Minute, Grand Lake

To reach the trailhead from U.S. 40, take U.S. 34 east and turn right (south) on CO Hwy. 278 toward Grand Lake Village. After 0.3 mile you will come to a fork before you reach the commercial area. Bear left onto West Portal Rd. (locally known as “the tunnel road”) and continue 0.7 mile to the intersection with an unpaved road on the left, at a “North Inlet and Tonahutu Trails” sign. Park at the small plowed area at the bottom of the road. Walk up the hill about 0.3 mile to the water plant and proceed to the right, over the stone bridge to the summer parking lot and trailhead. Continue by descending to the level of the stream. Although the stream itself meanders through a broad, marshy meadow with thick willow growth, the trail—an old road— is fairly straight and easy to follow as it trends east and then angles toward the northeast. For much of the way on this early part of the route, you will be hiking along with a fence to your right. As you enter Summerland Park, a valley, note the small, rustic house on the left side of

Snowshoeing

Trail 147 NORTH INLET TRAIL

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Rocky Mountain National Park—West Side

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Rocky Mountain National Park—West Side the trail, which is still private property. Though it is shuttered in winter, it is surely one of the most unusual and attractive buildings in Rocky Mountain National Park. Enjoy looking at it, but please respect this private inholding within the park. If all you want is an easy hike into a gentle and scenic valley, this is a good turnaround point. For different scenery and a longer route, stay on the trail as it narrows into a footpath and begins ascending through a thickening lodgepole forest. It continues in the same northeasterly direction, contouring along the hillside on the north side of the valley. There are open areas with nice views, tight woods with no views at all, and sections of the trail that run beside huge granite boulders and cliffs. The trail steepens somewhat as it approaches the base of Cascade Falls, which even at full power in late spring and early summer is considered more picturesque from below. Return by the same route you came.

Trail 148 EAST INLET TRAIL ● Easy Distance • 0.5 mile (one way) to Adams Falls; 2 miles (one way) to the first meadow Avalanche hazard • None (until beyond the meadow) Starting elevation • 8,390 feet Highest elevation • 8,600 feet Elevation difference • 80 feet to the top of Adams Falls; 210 feet to the end of the first meadow Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #200, Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS 7.5Minute, Grand Lake

Follow the directions to the North Inlet trailhead (see above) and keep going for a total of 2.4 miles along the tunnel road to the end of the plowed section at the East Inlet trailhead, which is down to the left (east). The trail offers something for every level of snowshoer. The trail begins by paralleling a fence line as it crosses a broad open area, before climbing ever so slightly up a rise forested with conifers and aspens. In summer, both the up- and downhills, gentle as they are, are equipped with steps. In winter, snow covers them.

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Grand Lake Touring Center. Situated on

The short hike to the top of Adams Falls is virtually flat and extremely easy, yet the icy cascade is a nice goal with a photogenic feature. If you keep along the main trail, you’ll pass through two meadowed areas, one after the other, which are not quite as defined a goal as a single waterfall for the midlevel snowshoer. Still, it is an attractive route of a good length. If you set the meadows as a destination, you can explore these flat, open areas without a demanding elevation gain. If You Want a Longer Hike. Past the falls, the trail enters an area of lodgepoles, beaver meadows, and a couple of frozen streams, first climbing slightly and then alternating up- and downhill segments with everimproving views of Mt. Cairns, Mt. Craig, and Mt. Westcott. Two miles from the trailhead, it becomes significantly more challenging, switchbacking up the steep valley. It is difficult to follow past the Devil’s Staircase and includes some severe avalanche terrain, so it is advisable to turn around here and return the same way you came.

a combination of public golf course and public lands, this beautiful cross-country ski center just outside Grand Lake Village grooms 18.3 miles of trails that cross open areas, wind through wonderful forests, and offer occasional drop-dead views of the Never Summer Range. Snowshoers are welcome on the skating lanes. Fourteen additional one-way trails and loops, which can be combined into many variations, range from the easiest sections to those with up-and-down steeps to keep the heart pumping. River Run, one of the more challenging trails, leads to the North Fork of the Colorado River. Because the day lodge is a golf pro shop and clubhouse in the summer, it provides restaurant and bar service. Full-moon spaghetti dinners on the appropriate Saturday nights in December through March are very popular. The day lodge also has equipment and clothing sales and rentals. The modest trail fee is suspended for youngsters 16 and under on Mondays, and use of a 0.6-mile “dog loop” is free at all times. To reach the touring center, take U.S. 34 east out of town (toward the park) and, after 0.4 mile, turn left onto Grand County Road 48. Follow it about 2 miles to the end. Grand Lake Touring Center, P.O. Box 590, Grand Lake, CO 80447; (970) 627-8008; www.grandlakecolorado.com/touringcenter/.

Grand Lake Village hangs out the welcome sign for snowshoers. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Snowshoeing

Nordic Center

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Springs, so named because the hissing of the hot springs reminded early settlers of a steamboat. Unlike many such communities, this boomtown along the Yampa River never truly went bust. Coal didn’t have precious metals’ get-rich-quick allure, and the hardy ranch families who settled in northwestern Colorado proved to have staying power. In fact, many of the region’s first families still are represented among a population that now includes many newcomers. Despite lower elevations than in some of the central Rockies, northern Colorado winters are long and persistent. A town tale, related in Jean Wren’s small historical book, Steamboat Springs and the Treacherous & Speedy Skee, tells of a visitor who approached a local rancher and asked “what the summers are like around here.” The rancher thought for a while and finally said, “Well, to tell the truth, I don’t really know. I’ve only lived here 10, 12 years.” Like many of his counterparts elsewhere in Colorado’s high country, this rancher— apocryphal or not—and his neighbors knew that the only way to get through a long winter was to learn how to play through the season. Snowshoeing has been part of the scene since the early days for utilitarian purposes and for fun, and just about the first artifact you come across at the winter exhibition of the Tread of the Pioneers Museum is a 5-foot-long snowshoe of wood and rawhide. Not just snowshoes but also skates and skis provided diversion, and they still do. Residents’ passion for winter activities put the town on the international map and kept it there. The vast ski area just southeast of downtown, called simply Steamboat (no “Springs” when referring to the ski resort) has become synonymous with champagne powder, and the mountain terrain beyond the broad Yampa River Valley is the centerpiece of some the most extraordinary backcountry areas in the state.

Plowing through the deep powder near Steamboat Springs is both a pleasure and a challenge for snowshoers who wander off-trail. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Snowshoeing

COAL MINERS AND RANCHERS FIRST SETTLED in and around Steamboat

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Steamboat Springs From Rabbit Ears Pass southeast of town to the Elk River Valley on the west are miles of old logging roads, summer hiking and mountain biking trails, and acres of powder-kissed meadows that invite exploration on snowshoes in winter. By and large, this is not an area of dramatic peaks and soaring summits. Rather, the topography is of friendly looking, rounded mountains, broad valleys, and appealing meadows blanketed in white. When a peak “explodes” high above the surrounding mountains—as do Elk Mountain, Hahns Peak, and Mt. Zirkel, deep in the nearby wilderness—the sight can make your heart leap. In addition to the beguiling backcountry, the Steamboat Springs area boasts several attractive snowshoeing opportunities in controlled environments of cross-country ski centers right in town and nearby. The Steamboat Nordic Council’s five-area Nordic Pass is valid at the Steamboat Ski Touring Center, Howelsen Hill Nordic Center, Vista Verde Nordic Center, Steamboat Lake State Park Touring Center, and Catamount Lake Touring Center. The Nordic Council can be reached at 1475 Pine Grove Rd., Ste. 102, Steamboat Springs, CO 80487; (970) 879-5916; www.steamboatxcski.org. For tourist information, contact the Steamboat Springs Chamber Resort Association, 1255 S Lincoln Ave., P.O. Box 774408, Steamboat Springs, CO 80477; (800) 922-2722 or (970) 879-0880; www.steamboatchamber.com.

Steamboat Springs In Steamboat Springs, which has sent more of its sons and daughters to the Winter Olympics than any other town in the United States, people simply love winter. The community offers more winter sports facilities than any other in Colorado—nonprofit centers contrived by corporations to extract dollars from tourists but intended for its own citizens. Visitors, of course, are welcome to dip into the lode. Winter sports enthusiasts know about the world-renowned and powder-blessed Steamboat ski resort, with unsurpassed Alpine skiing, telemarking, and snowboarding. The town’s dynamite municipal recreation facility at Howelsen Hill offers venues for Alpine skiing, race training, recreational and competitive snowboarding, day and night Nordic skiing, ski jumping, ice skating, and, yes, snowshoeing— all free or at bargain rates. Other snowshoeing trails are located right on the outskirts of town as well as in the surrounding mountains.

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■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 1.5 miles (one way) to the quarry; 2 miles (one way) to the top of Emerald Mountain Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 6,696 feet Highest elevation • 7,656 feet (quarry); 8,239 feet (top of Emerald Mountain) Elevation difference • 960 feet to the quarry; 1,543 feet to the top of Emerald Mountain Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • Trails Illustrated #118, Steamboat Springs, Rabbit Ears Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Steamboat Springs

To reach Howelsen Hill, located just across the Yampa River from the fringes of downtown Steamboat Springs, take Fifth St. one block west of Lincoln Ave. (U.S. 40) and cross Yampa Ave. and the bridge. Turn right onto River Rd. and then left into the Howelsen Hill Sports Complex parking lot. Snowshoeing in crosscountry ski tracks is a annoying to skiers anywhere, but at the Howelsen sports complex, where many of America’s top Nordic competitors and hopefuls train, it can create a real problem for these serious winter athletes. To access the free trails where snowshoeing is permitted, follow the Nordic trail on the left of the ski area day lodge. Cross under the chairlift and take the trail up the left (south) side of the ski area. The first 0.25 mile or so is steep, offering an effective aerobic workout. Several scenic overlook areas provide fine views of town, the Steamboat ski area across the valley, and the surrounding mountains. The first overlook is about two-thirds of the way up Emerald Mountain, and the second is at an old quarry. They also offer the best vantage points

Snowshoeing

Trail 149 HOWELSEN HILL/EMERALD MOUNTAIN

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GETTING THERE From Denver, take Interstate 70 west about 70 miles to the Dillon and Silverthorne exit (Exit 205). Turn right and follow CO Hwy. 9 north about 40 miles to Kremmling. At the stop sign, tur n left (west) onto U.S. Hwy. 40 and continue over Rabbit Ears Pass to Steamboat Springs. (Parking areas for Rabbit Ears Pass trails are well marked, directly off the highway.) Steamboat Springs is 160 miles from Denver. To reach the Elk River Valley (Clark and Hahns Park areas, including The Home Ranch and Vista Verde Ranch), drive 1.5 miles past town and turn right (north) onto Routt County Road 129. Clark is about 18 miles from that intersection. To reach the Dunckley Pass Trails, take CO Hwy. 131 south from Steamboat Springs or north from Wolcott (along Interstate 70, west of Vail and Beaver Creek) and at Phippsburg follow County Road 15 to the trailhead. It is also feasible to fly to Steamboat Springs. The town’s small municipal airport is currently without commercial air ser vice, but major and commuter airlines ser vice Yampa Valley Regional Airport near Hayden, 27 miles west of Steamboat Springs.

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Steamboat Springs of a massif to the northwest called Sleeping Giant Ridge. The trail—which local old-timers might still call Stone Quarry Rd. (Routt County Road 47)—hugs the edge of the hill up to a rolling plateau above the top station of the chairlift. On weekends, when the chairlift operates, you can avoid the steepest portions of the lower mountain by buying an inexpensive single-ride ticket, which saves you several hundred feet of climbing. Many snowshoers find the plateau area to be the most fun, anyway. There are two marked but ungroomed Nordic and snowshoeing trails on the contoured mountainside behind the ski area. The Orton Loop is about 1.3 miles long, and the Emerald Meadows Loop is a under 1 mile; both are easily followed and popular. If You Want a Longer Hike. Additional routes through the pine forest and open meadows on that plateau generally lie above and southeast of the ski area. Strong snowshoers can continue to the top of Emerald Mountain, which was once the top of the lift-served ski area. Many local snowshoe runners like to kick up the powder by running down the arrow-straight old lift line. The summit of Emerald Mountain, which is called Agate Mountain or Quarry Mountain on some maps, peaks at 8,239 feet and is topped by a thicket of communications towers.

Race Steamboat Pentathlon. This five-pronged event, held each March at the Howelsen Hill Sports Complex, consists of Alpine skiing or snowboarding, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, mountain biking, and running. Individuals and teams compete in various age categories. For information, registration, and payment of entry fee, contact the City of Steamboat Springs, 245 Howelsen Parkway, P.O. Box 775088, Steamboat Springs, CO 80477; (970) 879-4300; www.steamboatpentathlon.com.

TRAIL 150 FISH CREEK FALLS ● Easy Distance • 0.5 mile (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 7,530 feet Lowest elevation • 7,470 feet Elevation difference • 60 feet (ascend on the return) Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (leashed) Maps • None required for shor t trail; for longer hike, Trails Illustrated #118, Steamboat Springs, Rabbit Ears Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Steamboat Springs

Fish Creek got its name from the huge brook trout and whitefish populations that enabled early settlers to easily snag enough fish to tide them through a long winter. It is a favorite destination for Steamboat locals, who use it for a quick run or snowshoe through magnificent high cliffs whenever they have time just for a short getaway. From Lincoln Ave. (U.S. 40), turn east on Third St.—a right turn if coming from Steamboat Resort and left from downtown. Go one short block and turn right onto Fish Creek Falls Rd. (Routt County Road 32/Forest Service Road 320), which winds 4 miles through residential neighborhoods to a parking area at the end of the plowed road. Pass through the winter-closure gate and snowshoe up the road to access a short but dramatic route down to the base of the falls. The paved but snow-covered path threads downhill through a steep-walled canyon to the foot of Fish Creek Falls, which plunge 285 feet from a hanging valley. In winter, falling water freezes into glistening free-form sculptures. No wonder this jewel is the highlight of a route that has been designated as a National Recreation Trail.

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If You Want a Longer Hike. For a longer route and a substantial workout, continue to the top of the falls on Uranium Mine Rd. (Forest Service Trail #1102). Four switchbacks make up the steepest part of the ascent from the canyon, and after a short straight section, two more switchbacks complete the climb, which is about 850 feet from the base of the falls. Here, the trail becomes more exposed, so it might be a good idea to turn back if conditions are questionable. An old uranium mine, which lent its name to the road, is about 1.5 miles from the falls. Branches of the trail continue to Fish Creek Reservoir and Long Lake, but these cross through some hazard areas and are not recommended for casual snowshoeing excursions.

Guided Tours Yampatika Snowshoe Walks.

Yampatika’s naturalists specialize in interpretive programs spotlighting northwestern Colorado’s splendid natural wonders and cultural resources. These snowshoeing programs with an emphasis in winter ecology are free, though the not-for-profit Yampatika welcomes donations. Schedules and itineraries can change, but at this writing, they included Emerald Mountain, Uranium Mine Rd., Spring Creek, and several routes on Rabbit Ears Pass. Reservations are required, and tours are limited to eight to ten people per guide, depending on which tour you select. Yampatika is located in the Forest Service building at 925 Weiss Dr., Steamboat Springs, CO 80477. For tour information and reservations, call (970) 871-9151 or go to www.yampatika.org.

Schumaker leads custom half- and full-day snowshoe tours on Routt National Forest land, favoring Rabbit Ears Pass and Fish Creek Falls/Uranium Mine Rd. for half-day tours and the Mt. Zirkel or Sarvis Creek Wilderness areas for full-day programs. He leads strong ambitious snowshoers up Hahns Peak, and conducts gentler tours on two private ranches. On these “wildlife tours,” it is common to see the elk and deer that tend to mooch on ranches where bison and cattle are fed. In addition to wildlife viewing, they are especially good for families, in challenging weather conditions, and for people who are not yet acclimatized for higher-elevation hikes. The fee includes transportation from clients’ lodging and all equipment, and when small children are along, he even takes a pulk or sled to tow them when they get tired. Full-day trips include lunch, which clients can select from Backcountry Provisions. Rocky Mountan Ventures can be contacted at P.O. Box 882981, Steamboat Springs, CO 80488; (970) 870-8440; www.verticalgrip.com. For guided on-mountain snowshoe tours at the Steamboat ski area, see the resort listing below. Alpine and Nordic Resor ts Steamboat Ski Resort. All snowshoers are permitted to strike off on their own on Steamboat’s ski trails without charge, though management asks that they stop at the ski patrol station at the base of the Christie lift for guidance to the best snowshoeing routes, as well as for safety tips for sharing runs with downhill skiers and snowboarders. Base area to mid-mountain provides a daunting 2,180foot vertical ascent, but out-and-back snowshoers can climb as much or as little as they wish. A far better option for most people is to ride the Silver Bullet Gondola to Thunderhead, a plateau from which several snowshoeing routes fan out. You can get a sketch map of these trails. Steamboat sells “foot passenger”

Snowshoeing

Rocky Mountain Ventures. Guide Ken

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Steamboat Springs tickets for transport both up- and downhill. Thunderhead is the jumping-off point for guided snowshoe tours, currently Monday through Friday. The fee includes the gondola ride. The beginner tour is slightly longer than 1 mile on flat terrain along a loop that is a summer nature trail. The intermediate tour to Rendezvous Saddle is about 4 miles round-trip, with a 250-foot elevation gain, along a route called Duster. The advanced tour is shorter in length but involves a greater elevation gain (640 feet) to Four Points Hut, located at 9,080 feet. The most fun is the Gourmet Lunch Tour, which combines the intermediate itinerary with a delicious lunch at Ragnar’s, Steamboat’s acclaimed Scandinavian restaurant high on the mountain at Rendezvous Saddle. Lunch includes a choice of main course, dessert, and wine or non-alcoholic beverage. At this writing, the lunch tour begins weekdays at 10:00 A.M. Steamboat Ambassadors, the resort’s host corps, guide these tours. The Information Center at the base of the gondola is the place to get current scheduling information, rent snowshoes, sign up for a tour, and meet the guides. For more information, call (800) 9222722, (970) 879-0740, or (970) 871-5191. Steamboat Ski Touring and Snowshoeing Center. Tucked behind the Alpine ski

area is the cross-country center, located at about 7,000 feet. Its 5-mile-long dedicated snowshoe trail has virtually no climbs or descents. With an optional cutoff that cuts the distance in half, this is a perfect first outing for a family with a small child or beginning adult snowshoer who might be fearful, out of shape, or affected by altitude. The trail is easy to follow, and the touring center patrols it. Rental snowshoes are available, and there is a warming hut with snack service. There is a modest trail use fee. Steamboat Ski Touring and Snowshoeing Center, P.O. Box 775401, Steamboat Springs, CO 80477; (970) 879-8180; www.nordicski.net.

Catamount Ranch and Club. From the junction of U.S. 40 and CO 131, drive south 3.2 miles and turn left onto Routt County Road 18 (Pleasant Valley Rd.) for 1.2 miles. Turn left into the Catamount Ranch and Club property. Bear right and park at the lakeside Outfitters Center. In addition to 9 miles of dedicated snowshoe trails for members only, this private club offers nine groomed and trackset crosscountry trails and two groomed trails (Heritage Trail and First Light Trail) that are available to snowshoers and their dogs for a fee. Users have access to the Outfitters Center that doubles as a warming hut, restrooms, on-site rental equipment, and a public restaurant in the nearby clubhouse. Both snowshoe trails begin at the Outfitters Center. As you face the frozen lake, bear left for the 1.3-mile First Light Trail and right for the 4.25-mile Heritage Trail. Both trails hug the lakeshore at a 7,600-foot elevation, passing clumps of reeds, stands of willows, and posh homes—an assortment of attractions that are not common for snowshoers and therefore provide a real change of scenery. The vegetation is hospitable to birds In fact, Lake Catamount is home to a nesting pair of bald eagles, so bring your binoculars and ask where to look. Both trails start with out-and-back sections, culminating with loops at their apexes. First Light is ideal for new snowshoers and those who are becoming acclimated to the elevation, but with a respectable distance, even fit and experienced snowshoers can get their hearts pumping if they do the Heritage Trail at a good clip. Catamount Ranch and Club, 30215 Waters Edge Trail, Steamboat Springs, CO 80477; (970) 871-6667; www.catamount ranchclub.com. For information on the Steamboat Lake Touring Center, see page 282.

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Steamboat Springs Trail 151 WEST SUMMIT LOOP A ● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 3.6 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,350 feet Highest elevation • 9,700 feet Elevation difference • 350 feet, plus many small ascents and descents Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #118, Steamboat Springs, Rabbit Ears Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Mt. Werner

Snowshoeing

This pass was named for a pair of 100-foot rock pinnacles that to the surveyors resembled a rabbit’s ears. At 9,300 feet and more above sea level, this is not Colorado’s highest mountain pass, but it is among the biggest and broadest. Rather than being a relatively low spot threaded between summits, Rabbit Ears Pass is actually a huge, rolling tableland that sprawls between two high spots, known as the West Pass and East Pass. The entire area is in Colorado’s far north, and is quite high and wild. You might find weather conditions there sublime or terrible, sometimes on the same day. As you hike, you may encounter an area that feels like a wind tunnel or may find a treasured hidden powder pocket that has been untouched by wind or traffic. You may find a no-visibility whiteout or blue skies and sunshine. Rabbit Ears Pass epitomizes the everchanging conditions in Colorado’s high country. The whole area is a winter playground of unsurpassed proportions, with ample space for motorized and non-motorized recreationists. They rarely need to cross each others’ tracks, because snowmobiles prevail on the East Summit but are barred from most West Summit routes. Although it would seem that Rabbit Ears Pass presents snowshoers with an ideal, go-anywhere playground, it is advisable for most people to stick to marked and welltraveled routes through this sprawling area, where landmarks are few and the chances of backcountry disorientation are not to be trivialized. A trail map, compass, and the skills to use both are especially useful here, and many locals, in fact, save Rabbit Ears Pass for their springtime excursions because midwinter can be so severe. The U.S. Forest Services has produced a map of Rabbit Ears Cross-Country Ski Routes, which is available at local USFS offices.

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This trail, accessed from the West Summit parking lot on the north side of U.S. 40 just 12 miles from Steamboat Springs, is one of the most popular and one of the easiest routes on Rabbit Ears Pass. Scramble up the embankment, a high mound of plowed snow, and bear left (west) just past the trail sign onto Loop A. Amble through the gentle initial section, where the trail crosses open meadows and lovely woods. At the farthest reach, about 1.75 miles, where a telephone line crosses high over the trail, the route doubles back sharply to the right through an open field to the highest point. On clear days, this knoll provides gorgeous views of Hahns Peak, the Sleeping Giant, and the Flat Tops range. All that remains are a couple of bends, a sharp descent, and an intersection with West Summit Loop B on the left, and you’re back at the parking lot, climbing for a short distance. It’s always courteous to avoid ski tracks, but on this trail’s well-known downhill, stay as far off the cross-country paths as you can, because Nordies can pick up quite a head of speed on the descent. Skiers normally do this route clockwise, but snowshoes provide the flexibility to do it in either direction with equal comfort.

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Steamboat Springs Trail 152 WEST SUMMIT LOOP B

Trail 153 SOUTH SUMMIT LOOP

● ■ Easy to moderate

● ■ Easy to moderate

Distance • 4.4 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,350 feet Highest elevation • 9,520 feet Lowest elevation • 9,180 feet Elevation difference • 340 feet difference, with many small ascents and descents Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #118, Steamboat Springs, Rabbit Ears Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Mt. Werner

Distance • 3 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,320 feet Highest elevation • 9,550 feet Elevation difference • 230 feet, plus many small ascents and descents Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #118, Steamboat Springs, Rabbit Ears Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Mt. Werner

Drive, park, and begin snowshoeing as above, but at the trail sign bear right (northeast) onto a stretch that serves both as the end of Loop A and the beginning of Loop B. After a little more than 0.1 mile, take a second right fork and drop down into a broad drainage along the trail, marked by blue diamonds. Continue along the trail, which skirts a broad meadow and roughly parallels U.S. 40. When you come to a third fork after about 0.6 mile, stay left. Loop B arcs to the left and continues north, offering spectacular panoramic views. At the farthest point from the trailhead, the route curves left, first south and eventually west, back toward the intersection with Loop A. As on its twin, skiers on this trail customarily move in one direction (this time counterclockwise), but as with other circuits on Rabbit Ears Pass, snowshoes give you the freedom to do Loop B in either direction and to explore offtrail as well.

For the South Summit Loop, which on some maps and in some books is called West Summit Loop C, drive to and park at the West Summit as above, but cross to the south side of the highway to begin your trek. To follow this loop counterclockwise, begin with a short, sharp climb. Continue south-southeast, following an unplowed road. The trail curves to the left, turning east to parallel, at some distance, U.S. 40. Walton Peak is the landmark looming to the southeast. The trail horseshoes around Meadows Campground, which makes it easy to do a car shuttle for a short hike. The campground is on your left, about 1.5 miles from the trailhead, and you can cross through it to cut off the tail (or is it the tip?) of the route at the farthest point from the West Summit trailhead, where the Par-a-lel Route continues on to the east toward Walton Creek. South Summit Loop doubles back toward the trailhead, closely paralleling the highway. The trail can be done in either direction. If You Want a Longer Hike. You can also take the 2-mile-long Par-a-lel Route to combine the South Summit Loop and Walton Creek Loop (Trail 154) into one longer route, for a total of about 6.5 miles.

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From Steamboat Springs, drive past the West Summit parking area to the Walton Creek parking area, on the south side of the highway just over 18 miles from town. The trail divides just after the trailhead. Take the right fork, which heads south and drops into the drainage before heading across a relatively flat section. After about 0.6 mile, where the Par-a-lel Route merges from the right (west), the Walton Creek Loop bends to the left (east). Climb a short rise, traverse a small plateau and then drop into the Walton Creek drainage. The trail crosses the creek, where the North Walton Peak Rd. merges from the right. This part of the route, which often is used by snowmobilers, then curves left (north) to ascend back to the trailhead, following a power line at the very end. You can also do this route clockwise by taking the left option at the trailhead. If You Want a Longer Hike. See end of South Summit Loop write-up (Trail 153).

This beautiful valley northwest of Steamboat Springs boasts a strong ranching heritage and incredible scenery. In summer, the valley’s dude and guest ranches put up the “no vacancy” sign, the three Forest Service and four State Park campgrounds are filled, and significant numbers of sightseers pass through. In winter, two of the ranches have committed heavily to snowshoeing, the closed campgrounds are the gateways to some terrific backcountry snowshoeing areas, and hardly anyone drives by, because the road is plowed little beyond Hahns Peak and Trilby Flats. Additional snowshoeing trails are available at the valley’s two reservoir-centered state parks, particularly at Steamboat Lake State Park, which has developed a winter trail system, including dedicated snowshoe trails (see page 282). To access the valley, take U.S. 40, 1 mile west of Steamboat Springs, then Routt County 129 north. Guest Ranches The Home Ranch. The Home Ranch is a

member of the international luxury resort consortium called Relais et Chateaux, one of only two dude and guest ranches in the country and one of only two resorts of any type in Colorado to be so honored. When it comes to meeting the highest international standards of hospitality, it just doesn’t get any better than Relais et Chateaux. Antique furniture, firm mattresses, wood-stoves set and ready to light, down feather beds, private hot tubs right outside the door, and even a cookie jar restocked daily are the stuff of winter escape dreams. The ranch’s 1,500 acres are accessible only to overnight guests, and even at capacity, which is unlikely in winter, that still means only about 50 people. You can snowshoe right from the door, either on your own or on twice-daily guided snowshoe walks and hikes around the property or into the nearby Routt National Forest. The Home Ranch offers 80 kilometers of immaculately laid-out cross-country skiing

Snowshoeing

■ Moderate Distance • 1.7 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,470 feet Highest elevation • 9,630 feet Lowest elevation • 9,380 feet Elevation difference • 250 feet, plus many ascents and descents Snowmobiles • Yes, on part of the route Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #118, Steamboat Springs, Rabbit Ears Pass; USGS 7.5Minute, Mt. Werner

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In winter, ranch wranglers become trail guides, showing guests around ranch property and nearby National Forest trails. (Photo by Claire Walter)

and snowshoeing trails on its own property and the adjacent Whitmer Ranch. Track skiers and skaters have groomed trails, which snowshoers are asked to walk beside. More than a dozen routes, which The Home Ranch calls “powder trails,” are left ungroomed, wholly or in part, for snowshoers and those skiers who like to venture off the manicured path. The trails come in various steepnesses, but the difference in elevation from the lowest point of the lowest trail to the highest section of the highest is about 400 feet. The verticals may be moderate, but the variety and quality are firstrate. It’s hard to find a prettier snowshoeing trail in the state than The Home Ranch’s Aspen Arches, and if you like to snowshoe to a destination, you can go about 1.4 miles to the Clark Store for a latte and pastry break. A gate on the north end of the ranch accesses Routt National Forest land, where you can follow a trail along the Elk River for miles. For an additional challenge, bushwhack along the ridge that forms the eastern backdrop to The Home Ranch and continue to the top of Home Mountain, an elevation gain of nearly 1,000 feet. The Home Ranch, P.O. Box 822,

54880 Routt County Road 129, Clark, CO 80428; (970) 879-1780; www.homeranch.com. Vista Verde Ranch. Vista Verde’s property is smaller than The Home Ranch’s, covering “only” 500 acres, but you’d never know it from the grandiose views. Its long-standing commitment to winter activities includes marked and maintained Nordic skiing and snowshoeing trails. This Mobil four-star property offers cabin and lodge accommodations, fine dining, equestrian and other activities, and various resort amenities. Vista Verde welcomes day visitors who pay a trail use fee, present a Steamboat Nordic Pass, or buy a package that includes light or full lunch for a wonderful, civilized snowshoeing experience. The ranch’s winter season is from just before Christmas through mid-March. Snowshoers enjoy a dedicated trail, and those who prefer a gentle meander across open fields also love to follow beside Vista Verde’s 30 kilometers of marked and groomed cross-country trails. You can make lovely and easy loops where it’s difficult to get lost, or

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● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 6.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 7,680 feet Highest elevation • 8,450 feet Elevation difference • 770 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #116, Hahns Peak, Steamboat Lake; USGS 7.5-Minute, Farwell Mountain

To reach the snowshoeable portion of Seedhouse Rd., continue on County Road 129 north of Clark and turn right onto Seedhouse Rd. (Forest Service Road 400), passing the Glen Eden Resort on the left. Continue for about 6 miles to the end of the plowed section and park. The unplowed road beyond the winter closure provides a leisurely place to snowshoe as far as you like. You will be stepping through a portion of northern Colorado history. The road was cut in 1912 by the Forest Service to allow the collection and drying of spruce and pinecones. After 1933, the facility itself was used as a ranger station and summer camp. Now snowshoers, skiers, and snowmobilers share the wide road, which heads in a generally straight northeasterly direction, ascending gradually toward Slavonia and the Mt. Zirkel Wilderness. The road lies close to the Elk River and (farther upstream) the Elk’s Middle Fork, providing an ever-changing picture of frozen and unfrozen stretches. From the winter road closure, it is about 3 miles to Seedhouse and another 3.5 to Slavonia, named for the Eastern Europeans who settled there in the nineteenth century. However far you go, return the way you came.

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Trail 155 SEEDHOUSE RD.

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blaze your own trail past stands of conifers and the frozen-over beds of Coulton Creek and Hinman Creek. Groomed trails up the scrubby south-facing hillsides climb some 200 feet above the meadows and are accessible both to snowshoers and skiers, and the beautiful backcountry extends for miles beyond. If you’re of a mind, and in shape, for a challenge, ascend a steep marked trail up a ridge fittingly nicknamed Heartbreak Hill and follow a horse trail along the crest to Hinman Lake, where you skirt the south shore and make a loop of it by descending via the Forest Service trail until you return to an outlying trail on ranch property. This dramatic route is a virtual naturalists’ dream tour through several ecosystems: first through beautiful aspen stands, then through conifers on shaded north slopes, next back into the aspens, and lastly through desertlike scrub on the final descent to the ranch. The initial climb is so steep that the 600-foot vertical feels like more, but the experience of being alone at this beautiful lake is worth every puff. Vista Verde’s amenities include a small fitness center with hot tubs on the deck (all cabins also have their own) and winter horseback riding. Ranch guides lead backcountry hikes that allow snowshoers to get off groomed and marked trails, as well as weekly guided night tours on snowshoes or Nordic skis. There’s après-ski/après-snowshoe every afternoon at Bob’s Bar at Sweetheart’s, the original main lodge and now a congenial recreation room. But the outdoor fun doesn’t need to end when the sun sets. The trails are groomed first thing in the morning, so it is often all right to snowshoe them in the moonlight. A full—or almost full—moon is enough to cast shadows on the glistening snow. The ranch is located along Seedhouse Rd., 25 miles from Steamboat Springs. Vista Verde Ranch, P.O. Box 465, Steamboat Springs, CO 80477; (800) 5267433 or (970) 879-3858; www.vistaverde.com.

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Steamboat Springs Trail 156 HINMAN CREEK TRAIL ■ Moderate Distance • 2.6 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 7,680 feet Highest elevation • 8,240 feet Elevation difference • 560 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #116, Hahns Peak, Steamboat Lake; USGS 7.5-Minute, Farwell Mountain

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Vista Verde Ranch guests can take the steep back way up a sage-covered slope to join the Hinman Creek Trail. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Hinman Peak, Hinman Meadows, Hinman Lake, and all the other features that share the Hinman name owe the designation to a trapper who settled in the area in 1870. The mountain lake that bears his name is a fitting destination for a snowshoe excursion. To reach the lake, drive to the winter closure (see above) and begin snowshoeing along the north side of the road. Turn left onto the first road, which is marked as Forest Service Road 430, hike across an open meadow, then through stunning

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If You Want a Longer Hike. Return to the junction with the main trail, which is now on your left. The main Hinman Trail now bears toward the northeast. Stay to the right at the first trail intersection (about 0.5 mile) and, if you want some lovely views, turn right at the second intersection (0.25 mile) to a side trail that provides excellent views to the west. If you wish to continue up Hinman Creek Trail, return to the main trail and cross an upper section of Hinman Creek, where the trail peters out, roughly 4.75 miles and 1,400 vertical feet from the trailhead (and about 5 miles from the road), a challenging roundtrip distance and a significant elevation gain.

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stands of aspen. At the end of the road, at the Hinman Creek crossing, the route narrows into a trail that veers to the left (north), where it connects with the maintained Vista Verde Guest Ranch system. Stay on the backcountry trail that climbs steadily through a ravine deep in the woods. Some sections are rather steep. Where the ravine narrows, the trail hugs the hillside and continues its climb. At a fork, bear left (west) on an unmarked but often packeddown auxiliary trail. When you crest a rise overlooking Hinman Lake’s frozen surface, you have reached your beautiful destination. Beyond the lake to the north is Farwell Mountain, whose rounded summit is a local landmark. To see the lake from another vantage point, descend to it and skirt the south shore. You can make your own route up a hill on the western end for another nice view and also a quick lesson in the trees of northern Colorado. The south-facing slope that you climb is a lovely pine forest. At the top of the ridge, nature has virtually drawn a line, with aspens and firs on the north-facing side of the hill. When you turn around to retrace your steps, it is great fun loping down the deep and usually unmarked snow blanketing the steep hill.

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Steamboat Springs Trail 157 SOUTH FORK TRAIL ■ Moderate Distance • 3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 7,680 feet Highest elevation • 8,220 feet Elevation difference • 540 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #116, Hahns Peak, Steamboat Lake; USGS 7.5-Minute, Farwell Mountain

Take Seedhouse Rd. (Forest Service Road 400) as described above (Trail 155). Just after the Vista Verde Ranch turnoff, turn right to the Hinman Campground. The signs on the south side of the parking area indicate the trailhead. Bear left (east) and ascend gradually through an open meadow. The trail steepens somewhat as it enters the trees. Although it has some curves, it heads primarily in a southeasterly direction, paralleling a small creek that is later visible as the South Fork of the Elk River. The trail is pleasantly contoured, with a series of alternating small pitches and gentle climbs.

As you approach the high spot on the trail, the trees get more sparse but the aspens become more imposing, displaying beefy trunks with the girth of low-altitude maples. The route arcs gently to the right until it overlooks the South Fork, which here lies in a wide, marshy valley. In summer, hikers can pick their way through this damp area and rejoin the trail, which then continues northwest to a road junction just west of Seedhouse. In winter, snow and ice over flowing water can make crossing the area tricky, even on snowshoes, so angle over to Seedhouse Rd. to return to the trailhead or retrace your steps. If You Want a Longer Hike. A map and compass are strongly recommended if you decide to bushwhack through the dryer, higher ground north of the marshy section and make a loop by returning on Seedhouse Rd., a 3-mile hike along the South Fork Trail, plus about 1.75 miles down the unplowed road back to your starting point.

The South Fork trailhead is just off Seedhouse Road, north of Steamboat Springs. (Photo by Claire Walter)

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● Easy Distance • 0.6 mile (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,000 feet Highest elevation • 8,080 feet Elevation difference • 80 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • No Maps • None needed, but Trails Illustrated #116, Steamboat Lake, Hahns Peak; USGS 7.5-Minute, Clark, cover this area

If you don’t have much snowshoeing time or energy and want a short, sweet tour to a pretty destination, Pearl Lake State Park fits the bill. Turn right (east) from Routt County Road 129 onto County Road 209, bearing right at the Yjunction with 209A, which is plowed only as far as a small parking area at the fee station. The snowshoeing route follows the paved road to the campground and boat ramp, respectively the left and right options at a fork about twothirds of the way along the trail. This route

cuts a broad swath though tranquil woods of lodgepole, fir, and spruce and provides a gentle, steady uphill through the luxuriant forest. You will experience a sense of peace and protection as you snowshoe up this sheltering trail. Once you are close to the shore of the frozen lake, the woods open to a lovely but undramatic view. The occasional ice angler fishing for cutthroat trout or grayling is a picturesque addition to the scene. Families with small children who are not yet bored or tired might like to wander the roads of the campground and picnic area before turning around and retracing their steps. If You Want a Longer Hike. When the ice is solid you can make a loop by following the shore and rounding the peninsula that separates the campground and boat ramp trails, or you can follow the lakeshore around to the south to the dam and continue on Pearl Lake Trail, a summer hiking trail that might be indistinct in winter, but provides a longer adventure beyond the lake.

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Trail 158 PEARL LAKE STATE PARK RD.

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Steamboat Springs Trail 159 TOMBSTONE SNOWSHOE TRAIL ● Easy Distance • 0.9 mile (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,200 feet Highest elevation • 8,200 feet Elevation difference • Negligible Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes (6-foot leash required) Maps • None required, but Trails Illustrated #116, Steamboat Lake, Hahns Peak; USGS 7.5-Minute, Clark; Steamboat Lake State Park Winter Trails Map (free at the visitors center) cover this area

The Tombstone Snowshoe Trail is the winter incarnation of the Tombstone Nature Trail, a short and easy summer hike to a scenic peninsula at Steamboat Lake State Park. It is a straightforward marked but ungroomed snowshoe-only trail in the 15-kilometer winter trail system within the boundaries of Steamboat Lake State Park. For park information, call (970) 879-3922 or go to steamboat.lake @state.co.us. Users without a valid annual state parks pass can purchase a day pass at the park visitors center. The multi-area Steamboat Springs Nordic Pass is also valid here. The park is on the left of Routt County Road 129, 25 miles north of Steamboat Springs (past Clark), in Hahns Peak Village. Fifteen kilometers of cross-country ski trails are groomed twice weekly by members of the

not-for-profit Steamboat Lake Snow Club. This trail system is officially called the Steamboat Lake Touring Center, but it is a “center” in name only. The park visitors center is open and offers restroom facilities and information, but there are no rentals or lessons at this time, so be sure to bring equipment from town. From the park visitors center and parking lot, snowshoe toward the lake (west) from the same trailhead as the Main St. Trail. The snowshoeing trail twice intersects with the Crosscut Ski Trail, but to stay on the snowshoeing trail, keep going straight to make a loop whose apex is at the panoramic north end of a small peninsula that juts into Steamboat Lake. Complete the loop and return the way you came. If You Want a Longer Hike. At the Tombstone trail’s fork, where it splits to form the loop, bear right (northeast) onto the Deep Creek Ski Trail. The next fork splits into the Amphitheater Trail and the Sunsrise Vista Trail. Take either trail to intersect with a second snowshoeing loop trail, and follow it left past Marina Hill to a cluster of camper cabins and also Dutch Creek Guest Ranch. Dutch Creek is open in winter and offers food service and lodging with doorstep snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. For more information, call (800) 778-8519, (970)879-8519, or go to www.dutchcreek.net.

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● Easy Distance • 0.5 mile (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,503 feet Highest elevation • 8,590 feet Elevation difference • 87 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #116, Hahns Peak, Steamboat Lake; USGS 7.5-Minute, Hahns Peak

A few yards of Forest Service Road 486, on the left (west) of the highway, 11.2 miles from the Clark Store, are plowed out to create a small parking pullout. The road sign is often buried in snow, but look for the parking area immediately after the second Hahns Peak Recreation Area sign. The Prospectors Trail (Forest Service Trail #1156) trailhead is also at Road 486. A short distance from that road is Iron Mountain Rd. (Forest Service Road 488) and

A smart dog allows her mistress to break trail at Trilby Flats. (Photo by Claire Walter)

between them lies Trilby Flats, several hundred acres of rolling meadows punctuated with stands of bronze-barked aspens and soaring pines that are grouped into clusters, punctuating the pure snow. This area offers a choice of snowshoeing experiences. You can snowshoe up the wider and usually more discernable road. You can try to find your way along the narrower summer hiking trail. You can make a short loop with decent elevation gain by combining Prospectors Trail and Iron Mountain Rd., which are connected by a short spur trail about 0.5 mile from Elk River Rd. This loop provides about a 1.25-mile hike. Or you can choose to freeform snowshoe in Trilby Flats, which you may find the most fun of all. Even days after a storm, you can find untracked powder if you’re in a mood to break trail or follow the tracks etched into the powder by previous snowshoers and skiers. The Flats is an excellent playground for snowshoers and can provide the comfort of trail-free exploration within sight of your car. Snowmobiles do use the roads around Trilby Flats. This wide-open area is ideal on a sunny, windless day, when a bonus reward is 10,800-foot Hahns Peak spiring into the sky to the east. You will, however, want to avoid this open area if it’s blustery or if the sunlight is flat.

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Trail 160 PROSPECTORS TRAIL/ TRILBY FLATS

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Steamboat Springs An alternative, on the other side, is a hilly area to the right (east) of Elk River Rd., which locals refer to simply as “the road across from Trilby Flats.” This area has more vertical and more challenging terrain. You can make a nice loop by bearing left around the most prominent stands of trees, climb as far as you like, loop back behind the gladed areas and return to your starting point. You’re likely to see the tracks of others who have taken these routes.

Dunckley Pass In some ways, Dunckley Pass resembles Rabbit Ears Pass, only it’s a smaller area off a county road rather than a federal highway and farther from a large, recreation-oriented resort like Steamboat Springs. Consequently, it gets less usage. There are eight recommended trails and loops for snowshoeing and Nordic skiing, some of which are currently shared with snowmobiles. To reach the pass, take U.S. 40 east from Steamboat Springs. Turn right (south) onto CO Hwy. 131, then right again onto County Road 15 at Phippsburg. At the junction of County Road 132, bear right once more onto Dunckley Pass Rd. (Forest Service Road 16), which is plowed for about 1 mile to the trailhead. The distance from Steamboat Springs is 32 miles. (If you are coming up from the south, take Interstate 70 and exit at Wolcott. Follow Hwy. 131 north to Yampa. Take Routt County Road 17 and then County Road 132. The distance from Yampa to the trailhead is about 11 miles.) An information board and trail register are located at the trailhead.

Trail 161 ASPEN FLATS LOOP ● Easy Distance • 1.5 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,610 feet Highest elevation • 8,710 feet Elevation difference • 100 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #119, Yampa, Gore Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Sand Point

This is the shortest, easiest trail at Dunckley Pass. The name “Aspen Flats” says it all. It passes through lovely stands of aspen, and it is rather flat. From the trailhead, proceed south on an unplowed four-wheel-drive road. Bear left on the Aspen Flats Trail, which merges with the inbound Spronks Creek Trail and immediately joins the road. Bear right to return to the trailhead and complete the loop, which is equally pleasant in either direction.

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Distance • 4.7 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,610 feet Highest elevation • 9,000 feet Elevation difference • 390 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #119, Yampa, Gore Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Sand Point

From the main trailhead, proceed south and either take the Aspen Flats Trail (slightly longer) or stay on the road (slightly shorter). At the next trail intersection, bear left (east) onto the Spronks Creek Trail, which is fairly level and passes through open meadows. The trail follows the creek through the valley. After about 0.75 mile, the trail makes a sharp turn to the right (south) and the grade steepens. Continue about 0.25 mile more along the hillside to the next sharp bend. At the Crosho Lakes Trail junction, take another right and continue west, also returning via the Crosho Lakes Trail, which hugs the hillside. Bear right at each of the next two forks to return to the trailhead. You can also do this loop in the other direction; neither way seems “better” than the other. If You Want a Longer Hike. If you have time, energy, and the inclination, continue more or less straight (south) at the Crosho Lakes Trail, which is 0.75 mile one way. Remember that you have to return again, which adds about 1.5 miles to the total distance of the hike.

● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 3.6 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 8,610 feet Highest elevation • 8,890 feet Elevation difference • 280 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #119, Yampa, Gore Pass; USGS 7.5-Minute, Sand Point

Drive a few hundred feet past the Aspen Flats trailhead to the end of the plowed road to a parking area that is also popular with snowmobilers. You will be sharing the Dunckley Pass Rd. (Forest Service Road 16) with sleds, so keep to the side of the trail. Snowshoe straight (west) along the road, making a long steady climb through the woods. After about 0.75 mile, take the right fork to Wildcat Alley. This summer jeep road makes a long loop around a modest hill, which is covered by aspens and conifers. Along the way are remnants of oil and gas strikes, including a couple of drill holes and an oil well close to the trail. Wildcat Alley rejoins the Dunckley Pass Rd., which you then take east to return to the trailhead. You can also do the loop in the other direction.

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■ Moderate

Trail 163 WILDCAT ALLEY

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Trail 162 SPRONKS CREEK TRAIL/ CROSHO LAKES TRAIL

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Colorado like a marvelous mirage, appearing as a whitecap erupting from a rocky sea of beige, taupe, and sand. At 350,000 acres, it is the world’s largest flat-top mountain, and it has rightly been called “an island in the sky.” The top of the Grand Mesa and the distant San Juan Mountains are snowcapped eruptions out of western Colorado’s canyon country, a region whose landscape otherwise relates more to Utah’s deserts than to the Rockies. The Colorado River and its tributaries have sliced through this high tableland for millennia, carving canyons to give the land its character and sustain its life. In this stark and beautiful setting is the Grand Mesa, a unique topographic wonder that combines the features of canyon country with an alpine environment. Look at a very different scene as you snowshoe on rolling alpine meadows with great stands of conifers, frozen mountain lakes, and deep snows, which often last well into June. The maps and guidebooks say “Grand Mesa,” but residents of the Western Slope simply call it “the Mesa.” This year-round recreational paradise boasts hiking, camping, and fishing in summer, and easy access to some of Colorado’s least-known, yet best and most snow-sure, winter trails. Cross-country ski and snowshoeing trails and snowmobile routes lace the Mesa’s sprawling top. The Alpine ski runs of Powderhorn Resort cling to its north side like a sparkling white Gumby. No wonder outdoor enthusiasts from Grand Junction, Montrose, Delta, and other Western Slope communities feel that paradise is at their doorstep. CO Hwy. 65, officially named the Grand Mesa National Scenic and Historic Byway, snakes across the Mesa, cresting at over 10,600 feet. It passes dozens of frozen lakes and, most important, separates the trails where snowmobiles are permitted from those where only such non-motorized sports as snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are allowed. Skating lanes, ungroomed trails within these networks, many additional miles of backcountry trails, and acres of open areas beckon snowshoers. When the moon is full and the sky is clear, the snow-covered landscape glows day-bright, and there’s simply no place better for moonlight snowshoeing. On weekends, legions of snowmobilers roar around their designated trails, meadows, and roads on the west side of the highway, but during the week, even these are uncrowded and are therefore fine for snowshoers to explore. When Front Range residents look at a map of Colorado, it seems as if Grand Mesa is really far away, but it’s just 4 hours from Denver— virtually a straight shot west on Interstate 70. For tourist information, contact the Grand Junction Visitor and Convention Bureau, 740 Horizon Drive, Grand Junction, CO 81506; (800) 962-2547 or (970) 244-1480; www.visitgrandjunction.com. GETTING THERE Grand Mesa is 40 miles east of Grand Junction. T ake Interstate 70

east from town, get off at Exit 49, and continue on CO Hwy . 65 south. From the east, drive west on Interstate 70. If the weather is good and the roads are clear , take Exit 62, which is 200 miles from Denver. Turn left, cross over the highway and continue for about 10 miles on a winding and hilly road known as the DeBeque Cut-Off. At the T -intersection, turn left onto Hwy. 65 south. If the road conditions are dicey , continue on Interstate 70, 13 miles more to Exit 49. Cross the interstate to Hwy . 65 south. Whatever your routing to this point, drive through the center of the village of Mesa.

Snowshoeing

THE GRAND MESA EMERGES FROM THE NEAR-DESERT of western

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Grand Mesa The Powderhorn access road is on the right (south), about 6 miles far ther up the road. After this, the highway continues winding up the side of the Mesa and leads to myriad trailheads and ultimately down the other side toward Cedaredge. Three winter trail systems top the Mesa: Skyway at the highway’ s mile marker 32.5, County Line at mile marker 30, and Ward Creek at mile marker 25. Alpine Ski Resort Powderhorn Resort. As Colorado ski resorts go, Powderhorn is a minor-league player. As far as snowshoeing is concerned, Powderhorn has ranked as a pioneer since the dawn of its popularity as a recreational activity in Colorado. While other ski resorts added snowshoeing as an afterthought to Alpine or Nordic offerings, at Powderhorn, it has enjoyed first-rate status. In the mid-1990s, the resort established a Snowshoe Center that was not a cross-country venue but rather a facility developed for and dedicated to snowshoeing. The nucleus of what was planned as a fairly extensive trail system was laid out and marked, but with changes in management and greater

This old Salt Shack along Powderhorn’s lower trail system is an artifact from the Mesa’s past. (Photo by Claire Walter)

snowshoeing resources elsewhere as well, the concept didn’t have the legs to last. Still, snowshoeing remains an important part of the scene. In 2004–05, Powderhorn’s ambassadors began seeking out individuals who wished to join complimentary snowshoe outings, a fitting continuation of the resort’s snowshoeing legacy. In terms of terrain, three loops of just over 1 mile each are a short walk from the base lodge, and an additional 3.1-mile trail along the Mesa’s West Bench connects the upper terminals of Powderhorn’s two main chairlifts. During lift operation hours, snowshoers are permitted on two of Powderhorn’s downhill ski trails, Bill’s Run and Red Eye. They are asked to stay on the right side of the trail while climbing and descending. If you want to snowshoe these ski trails or the West Bench Trail at the top but aren’t interested in climbing 1,650 vertical feet, you can buy a one-ride lift ticket that is good for either a one-way uphill or a round-trip. This lift ticket is currently $5 with snowshoe rentals. For details contact Powderhorn Resort, 48338 Powderhorn Rd., Mesa, CO 81643; (970) 268-5700; www.powderhorn.com.

WESTERN Grand Mesa

● Easy Distance • 1.2 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,200 feet Highest elevation • 8,200 feet Elevation difference • Negligible Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • Trails Illustrated #136, Grand Mesa; USGS 7.5-Minute, Mesa Lakes

These lower trails are the legacies of Powderhorn’s snowshoe center. It is still marked as a snowshoeing area on the resort’s trail map. The start is uninspiring, leading from the main base area through a parking lot and along a service road almost to the bottom of Lift 2. A few hundred yards from the base, you come to the true trailhead sign on the right and the entry to a marked and magical trail that threads delicately through the woods and fields in areas that are narrower and more tranquil than the ones groomed for cross-country. You won’t have to worry about tromping on

classical tracks or being eclipsed by flashy skate-skiers. The area is habitat for red fox, deer, elk, wild turkey, and coyote. You may hear coyotes howling in the distance, their sounds echoing off the rocky cliffs as you snowshoe, and you will definitely see tracks during your hike. The snowshoeing trail begins south, dropping slightly into the Big Beaver Creek drainage, then turns sharply to the left. (The way straight ahead leads to the 8,000 Foot Rd., which in turn contours along lower down the hill and at one point was expected to be incorporated into the snowshoeing trail system, but that plan is on hold—perhaps permanent hold.) The recommended approach is counterclockwise because it’s the most interesting direction. Almost immediately into the system is the Orbit Loop, just 1.2 miles in all along a flat area of beaver ponds and meadows fringing into the woods before returning to Powderhorn’s base, or continuing at roughly that contour to explore two longer loops from the snowshoe center’s heyday.

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Trail 164 POWDERHORN SNOWSHOEING TRAIL

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Grand Mesa Trail 165 WEST BENCH TRAIL (WEST) ● Easy Distance • 2.8 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,850 feet Highest elevation • 10,050 feet Elevation difference • 200 feet, plus some ascents and descents Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #136, Grand Mesa; USGS 7.5-Minute, Mesa Lakes

Ride Lift 1 to the top of the ski area (see page 290). Cross the Maverick ski trail and amble through a small stand of trees past the patrol building and across the open meadow (there may be snowmobile or other tracks to follow). A blue stake on the far right (southwest) corner of the field indicates the start of the West Bench Trail, which is marked with blue diamonds. The trail follows a fairly steady contour, with a few curves and a few ups and downs to keep it from being simply a snowy highway linking two lift stations. Several clearings located a few steps from the right (north) side of the trail provide an opportunity for sensational views. They are unmarked, but you can usually spot them by tracks left by other snowshoers and skiers. You’ll have to climb up a small snow-covered rise to get the views and the photo opportunity, and it’s worth every step. The high point of the trail is roughly halfway between the two lift unloading areas. As you climb toward this point, notice that “normal”

Snowshoeing along the West Bench Trail, accessible via Powderhorn ski lift. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Colorado-sized conifers and aspens suddenly approach the dimensions of the Pacific Northwest’s mammoth Douglas firs. As you silently snowshoe through these enormous trees, you may feel as if you are walking through a nave in nature’s cathedral. Ride Lift 2 back down. You can also do the trip from west to east, riding up Lift 2 and down Lift 1. If You Want a Longer Hike. Start your hike directly at the resort’s base and ascend Bill’s Run if you want to add a big aerobic component to this scenic hike, or end it by snowshoeing back down to the base via the Flume Run and get those quadriceps into gear on the downhill.

WESTERN Grand Mesa

Distance • 4.5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,850 feet Highest elevation • 10,000 feet, plus ascents and descents Elevation difference • 150 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #136, Grand Mesa; USGS 7.5-Minute, Mesa Lakes

This lovely wooded trail connects the top of Powderhorn’s Lift 1 with the Mesa Lakes Resort, a quaint and homey resort complex. You can make a very respectable round-trip of this route or do it with a car shuttle. If you snowshoe up Bill’s Run for a 1,650-foot elevation gain before beginning this hike, you’re in great shape and have ambition to match. Most snowshoers take the lift up. In either case, proceed as above across the open meadow, but then look for the blue stake on the left. The trail to Mesa Lakes Resort climbs steadily— even steeply at times—to the south through a mixed forest of aspens and conifers. It enters the resort’s trail system near a summer ranger station and just to the west of Sunset Lake. Grand Mesa’s more open upper areas can get windy, and when they do, either section of the heavily treed West Bench Trail provides relief from the gusts. If You Want a Longer Hike. Link the eastern and western sections of the West Bench Trail.

■ Moderate Distance • 2.3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,920 feet Highest elevation • 10,440 feet Elevation difference • 520 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #136, Grand Mesa; USGS 7.5-Minute, Mesa Lakes

The road designated as CO Hwy. 65 over the Grand Mesa is known by locals as “the new road.” Portions of the old road—narrower, less hospitable to modern traffic, yet even more scenic—today are used as a recreation trail and are not plowed. On maps, the Old Grand Mesa Rd. is marked as Aspen Cove Rd. (Forest Service Road 253). To get a good workout, begin your hike at the west end of the Mesa Lakes Resort trails or directly from the Mesa Lake summer picnic ground. The old road first heads south, then east, and, after one large switchback and a series of small curves, joins Hwy. 65. You can also park here and snowshoe down to the resort. In either case, the trail can be accomplished as an out-andback hike or with a car shuttle.

Snowshoeing

● ■ Easy to moderate

Trail 167 OLD GRAND MESA RD.

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Views from the Grand Mesa are unlike the mountain panoramas snowshoers elsewhere enjoy. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Nordic Resort WESTERN

Mesa Lakes Resort. This rustic resort,

composed of a group of log cabins on Grand Mesa’s scenic north side, is just off the highway, making it a hideaway that’s not really off the beaten path. Just beyond the doors of the winterized cabins are 7 kilometers (about 4.3 miles) of marked snowshoeing and crosscountry skiing trails—some pack-groomed and others left natural. They adjoin the resort, which is located at 9,870 feet, and wind around several lakes (Jumbo, Sunset, Beaver, and Mesa) and through a summer campground area. Most are fairly flat, short, and easy—excellent for beginners or for anyone looking for a nice warm up, after a long drive,

for the longer trails on the nearby Mesa top. Access is also offered to the West Bench Trail to Powderhorn, as well as to the Old Grand Mesa Rd., and full-moon tours have been popular from the evening they were introduced. This traditional Western Slope fishing retreat, which has a second season of winter recreation, features a cozy restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the only place on the Mesa to do so at this time of year. Snowshoe rentals are available in the small shop adjacent to the restaurant, and guided snowshoe excursions can be arranged. Mesa Lakes Resort, P.O. Box 230, Mesa, CO 81643; (800) 420-6372 or (970) 268-5467.

WESTERN Grand Mesa

Skyway. The restroom-equipped plowed

parking area just off Hwy. 65 at 10,660 feet accesses five groomed loop trails that vary in length from 3 kilometers (just under 2 miles) to 9.3 kilometers (about 6 miles). They can be combined into longer or shorter routes as well. They are all quite gentle, as the entire trail network has a maximum 150-foot elevation change. Currently there is no fee, but a donation box to help cover grooming expenses is affixed to a fence post at the trailhead. For an incredible view of the Book Cliffs, make your way along the Sunset Trail to the overlook about 1 mile from the parking lot. Skyway is a dog-free trail network, but pooches are permitted on County Line trails (below). A 1.55-mile marked connector trail to the County Line Nordic Trails is used surprisingly little, but it makes a particularly nice one-way hike with a car shuttle.

the County Line trails provides access to trails laid out in four loops, ranging from 0.7 mile to 4.6 miles in length. Except for Loop 4, which is left wild and therefore especially congenial for snowshoeing, they are regularly groomed. Even gentler than Skyway, they measure out to a mere 53-foot elevation difference from the lowest to the highest. Still, the scenery equals the best in the state. For one of the finest views, bear right (east) at the first two junctions from the trailhead, and at about 2 miles look south toward the San Juan Mountains. County Line is also the Mesa top’s best system for snowshoeing with your dog.

Snowshoeing

County Line. The plowed parking area for

COLORADO

Groomed Nordic Trail Systems In addition to numerous trailheads directly off Hwy. 65, three cross-country trail systems, all in avalanche-safe areas, are available for nonmotorized recreation, including snowshoeing. These networks of winter routes—which I think of as the Grand Mesa’s three grand trail systems—cannot, by any stretch, be called Nordic ski areas or Nordic resorts, because the infrastructure is minimal. Volunteers from the community-based Grand Mesa Nordic Council, which is committed to cross-country skiing, maintain all three, and they do welcome snowshoers along the outside edge of the skating lanes, leaving the center smooth for crosscountry skiers. Of course, they especially plead with snowshoers to stay off the classical tracks. For membership or other information, contact the Grand Mesa Nordic Council, P.O. Box 266, Cory, CO 81414; (970) 434-9753; http://gmnc.info. If you want a basic trail map, a stamped, self-addressed, letter-sized envelope would be appreciated by this not-for-profit organization.

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systems, Ward Creek is the most extensive. The groomed and ungroomed trails range in length from 1.5 miles to nearly 10 miles, and in elevation between 9,760 feet and 10,290 feet. There are two main parking areas and major trailheads, located respectively at the Grand Mesa Visitors Center, which is staffed by forest rangers on most winter weekends, and along Hwy. 65, 29 miles north of Cedaredge. Because Ward Creek is the largest of the three systems as well as the farthest from Grand Junction, it tends to get the lightest use. However, it is also the lowest and southernmost of the three trail networks, meaning that its season of good snow is somewhat shorter than its higher neighbors’. Unlike the other two, a few of Ward Creek’s most outlying trails are also used by snowmobilers.

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CARTOGRAPHERS PLOT OURAY COUNTY at 542 square miles. This is modest by Colorado standards, but if you ironed it out, the county, set deep in the heart of the soaring San Juan Mountains, would probably be the size of Texas. It has just two towns, the county seat of Ouray, where the north-flowing Uncompahgre River tumbles down from the high country, and Ridgway, where the valley opens up slightly. The towns’ residents and the few people who live in the surrounding mountains and valleys total about 3,700. Outsiders think that they live in a beautiful but remote area, but there were not always so few residents and the country did not always seem so remote. In the heyday of mining, Ouray was a major mining center, and Ridgway was developed as a significant rail junction of southwestern Colorado. Old wagon roads, mining camps, and ghost towns are now found throughout the region, but in winter, much of it is buried or inaccessible. When the San Juans lie under a deep mantle of snow, even the two populated towns feel somnolent. The mass of summer tourists is absent, and the locals themselves are probably playing in the snow. Their games are not without risk. These mountains are among the steepest of all the Colorado Rockies ranges, and they often snare the state’s highest snowfalls. Added to the natural terrain and snowfall patterns is the fact that mining activities denuded many of the slopes and increased avalanche danger. Still, for the cautious snowshoer, opportunities to explore this gorgeous area do present themselves. Both towns boast wonderful natural hot springs pools to unwind in after a day of trekking around the mountains. Check out the Orvis Hot Springs in Ridgway, the Ouray Hot Springs, or check in at Ouray’s Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa and Lodge, whose private springs are reason enough to stay there. For regional tourist information, contact the Southwest Colorado Travel Region, 195-A Girard St., Durango, CO 81301; (800) 933-4340; www.swcolotravel.org. Local information is available from the Ouray Chamber Resort Association, 1230 Main, P.O. Box 145, Ouray, CO 81427; (800) 228-1876 or (970) 325-4746; www.ouraycolorado.com.

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Ouray and Ridgway Ouray Even among Colorado’s beautiful Victorian villages Ouray stands out. Tucked into a canyonlike valley sliced into 13,000- and 14,000-foot mountains by the Uncompahgre River, Ouray (locally pronounced “Your-Ray”) is on a major highway—its main street is, after all, U.S. 550. But it also has an end-of-the-earth quality. The San Juan Mountains press in on the town from both sides, and, like Telluride, Aspen, Breckenridge, and other towns born in the late nineteenth century, its wealth came from mining. Telluride is just a few miles to the west, but as the cliché goes, “you can’t get there from here.” Not easily, anyway. The only more or less direct routes are either by harrowing fourwheel-drive roads that are impassable in winter because they travel through severe avalanche territory or by an old mine tunnel, a historic curiosity that bores under the mountains. People must go the long way around, a drive of some 50 miles through Ridgway. Vast tracts of rugged backcountry east of Ouray separate it from Lake City, also tucked into a deep mountain valley, and connected by a summer fourwheel drive road, but the “long way” to Lake City is even longer in winter. South of Ouray is Red Mountain Pass, at 11,018 feet one of the state’s highest to be plowed and kept open in the winter. It is Colorado’s snowiest pass road and also the hairiest to drive. In summer, the surrounding mountains boast many of the state’s finest fourwheel-drive roads, and some are winter snowshoeing, ski, and snowmobile trails. It’s worth your life to explore others, which lead deep into slide-prone high basins. Some people, of course, think that it’s worth your life to navigate Red Mountain Pass too. Still, skiers and snowshoers drive the pass, scary or not, to reach high trails.

On the south side of the pass, Silverton, another more or less neighboring community, is awash with Victorian atmosphere and mining history (see page 328). U.S. 550 may be the map name, Red Mountain Pass may mark it geographically, but Million Dollar Hwy. is what this Ouray–Silverton road is called. It got its name either because the roadbed was made of gold-bearing mine tailings or because it was so expensive to build ($40,000 per mile back in the early 1880s), but everyone who drives it today agrees that it proffers million-dollar views at every switchback. GETTING THERE From Denver, take Inter-

state 70 west to Grand Junction, then U.S. Hwy. 50/550 south, which in Montrose continues southward as U.S. 550. Or make your way via U.S. Hwy. 285 and U.S. 50 via Gunnison and Montrose to U.S. 550 south. Either way, the drive is more than 300 miles, which in winter can take an eter nity. Another option is to fly to Montrose, rent a car , and head due south on U.S. 550. Nordic Trail System Ironton Park. This small cross-country trail system, directly off U.S. 550, 9 miles south of Ouray, is operated by Ouray Nordic Council volunteers, who groom several old mining roads. They make rather gentle winter trails away from avalanche zones. While welcome on these trails, snowshoers are asked not to stomp on cross-country skiers’ tracks. Use of these trails is free, but there is a donation box for anyone who wants to help defray the cost of grooming. The USGS 7.5-Minute topo for Ironton covers this area, but for a Nordic-specific trail map, send a stamped, self-addressed envelope to the Ouray Nordic Council, P.O. Box 468, Ouray, CO 81427.

WESTERN Ouray and Ridgway

● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 1 mile (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low to moderate Starting elevation • 11,060 feet Highest elevation • 11,400 feet Elevation difference • 340 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #141, Silver ton, Ouray, Telluride, Lake City; USGS 7.5Minute, Ouray; Map of the Mountains of Silverton, Telluride, and Ouray, Drake Mountain Maps

Drive south from Ouray on U.S. 550 for 22 miles of gut-gripping switchbacks, sheer dropoffs and magnificent scenery to the summit of Red Mountain Pass. The unpaved, unplowed road (Forest Service Road 825) to the lodge is on the left (east) side of the pass. Begin snowshoeing past old mine buildings. The route then bends south and southeast around a snow-covered knob and up a small valley that contours around Red Mountain itself. The trail is easy and the elevation gain is moderate, but a short, steep climb of about 160 feet at this elevation may seem more like 1,600 feet! Catch your breath, cross the creek, and climb more gently to the lodge. As you come over the last rise to a broad clearing where the lodge is located, you’ll feel as if you were hit between the eyes by a mirage. The St. Paul Ski Lodge is so rustic that it makes other mountain huts look like the Ritz. It began life as the tipple house of an old mine but was “developed” with scabbed-together

timbers, windows, roofing, doors, and fixtures salvaged from old buildings that broaden the meaning of the adjective “quirky.” Operated by an eccentric Englishman named Chris George who has been running it since 1974, hostelstyle, the lodge serves three hearty meals a day and even puts together on-request groups to explore the nearby backcountry. Despite his irreverent personal style, Chris is an experienced mountain guide and American Avalanche Institute instructor, as well as a trained chef, so he’s the ideal guru for a backcountry lodge. Following someone who knows the way is a very good idea up here, because avalanche hazards can be severe in this region of heavy snow and steep mountains. For some people, overnighting at a place where the “facilities” consist of commodes built over a deep mineshaft is just too much. For others, that’s part of the charm. You don’t have to overnight at the St. Paul Ski Lodge, but if you wish to, contact Chris at St. Paul Ski Lodge, P.O. Box 463, Silverton, CO 81433; (970) 387-5367 (yearround) or (970) 387-5494 (winter only); www.frontier.net/~stpaul/. If You Want a Longer Hike. The St. Paul Ski Lodge is a good launching pad for treks back toward U.S. Basin, an area favored by telemark skiers and accessed by a trail with fantastic views. You can also return to the Red Mountain Pass trailhead by a longer, roundabout way, via Champion Gulch to the north, then doubling back southwest on another old mining road.

Snowshoeing

Trail 168 ST. PAUL SKI LODGE

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Ouray and Ridgway Guided Tours

Ridgway

Hawks Drift Guides. Charlie Letteri heads

Ridgway is 10 miles north of Ouray. In contrast to the drama of Red Mountain Pass, the Ouray–Ridgway stretch is a piece of cake. The two towns are a study in contrasts. Less Victorian and far more eclectic, Ridgway is a downhome place at the crossroads of routes to Telluride, Ouray, and the regional airport and commercial center of Montrose, which is still farther to the north. Ouray is a Colorado mountain community, pure and simple. Ridgway would be described as a mountain town in any other context, but within the tight framework of the sky-high San Juan Mountains, locals think of it as a valley community. It spreads in a relatively broad basin in a place where the Uncompahgre River has created a wider valley than that in which its nearest neighbor, Ouray, is located. For tourist information, contact the Ridgway Area Chamber of Commerce, 150 Racecourse Rd., Ridgway, CO 81432; (800) 220-4959 or (970) 626-5181; www.ridgwaycolorado.com.

this Ouray-based, year-round guide service that leads snowshoers into the Uncompahgre, Cimarron, and San Juan Mountains. Half-day excursions are offered on Angel Ridge Ranch, a private development on an old ranch near Ridgway. Full-day itineraries head to Engineer Pass in the San Juans south of Ouray or Owl Creek Pass in the Cimarrons northeast of Ridgway. These latter treks can be quite demanding—10 miles or more at significant elevations. However, since they are custom trips by appointment, they can be tailored to the ability and energy of the group. Snowshoes and poles are included in the fee, and lunch can be arranged as well. Hawks Drift Guides, 480 Main St., P.O. Box 527, Ouray, CO 81427; (970) 325-7252 or (970) 626-5049; www.ouraycolorado.com/hawks.

WESTERN Ouray and Ridgway

● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • 4 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 8,650 feet Highest Elevation • 9,200 feet Elevation difference • 550 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #141, Silverton, Ouray, Telluride, Lake City; USGS 7.5Minute, Ridgway; Map of the Mountains of Silverton, Telluride, and Ouray, Drake Mountain Maps

To reach Miller Mesa Rd., drive west out of Ridgway on CO Hwy. 62 and turn left onto Ouray County Road 5. After 0.25 mile, turn

right onto Elk Meadows Rd. Park near the cluster of mailboxes at the Elk Meadows subdivision sign and hike up the unplowed Miller Mesa Rd. (Forest Service Road 852). It first heads south and then east, very gently ascending a mesa. A couple of small, unpaved side roads merge into it. Gratification is immediate, with views down toward the town of Ridgway and up at the jagged peaks of the Mt. Sneffels Wilderness, one of Colorado’s most spectacular mountain ranges. A roundtrip hike of four miles each way escalates this route from “easy” to “easy to moderate,” so amble along this scenic stretch, which slices through open meadows punctuated periodically by stands of aspen, as far as you wish and return the way you came.

Snowshoeing

Trail 169 MILLER MESA RD.

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View from Miller Mesa, above Ridgway. (Photo by Ral Sandberg)

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Ouray and Ridgway Trail 170 EAST FORK DALLAS CREEK RD. ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • About 5 miles (one way, to start of Willow Swamp) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 7,760 feet Highest elevation • 9,050 feet Elevation difference • 1,290 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #141, Silverton, Ouray, Telluride, Lake City; USGS 7.5Minute, Ridgway, Mt. Sneffels; Map of the Mountains of Silverton, Telluride, and Ouray, Drake Mountain Maps

From Ridgway drive west on Hwy. 62 for nearly 5 miles. Turn left (south) onto Ouray County Road 7 to the junction with Dallas Creek Rd. (Forest Service Road 851), which forks to the right about 4 miles from the highway turnoff. Drive as far as the winter closure and begin snowshoeing up the unplowed road, which crosses Beaver Creek and then begins winding up the ridge between Beaver Creek and the East Fork of Dallas Creek. The road, which is flanked by private property, roughly follows the ridge, passing through dense scrub forests, aspen groves, and stands of conifers. South Baldy, which is crisscrossed by a web of old roads, rises to the west, and Miller Mesa is the valley’s more distant eastern wall. The valley opens up into a large willowy area, aptly known as Willow Swamp. In winter, the head of Willow Swamp is a good place to turn back, though you can explore the frozen marsh and should certainly pause to admire the craggy splendor of 14,150-foot Mt. Sneffels to the southeast.

If You Want a Longer Hike. For more of a hike, simply poke around Willow Swamp for a while or venture beyond. The road crosses Dallas Creek on a wooden bridge at the southern end of this frozen-over wetland just below the confluence of Wilson Creek, makes a sharp turn climbing to the northwest, and soon narrows down into a trail and passes Cocan Flats. Eventually it leads to the Blue Lakes Hut, part of the San Juan Hut System (see below).

Huts San Juan Hut System. Five spartan eightbunk huts tucked under the soaring Sneffels Range connecting Ridgway, Telluride, and Ouray make up the San Juan Hut System, Colorado’s southwesternmost system. It is known for spectacular scenery, rustic ambience, and backcountry immersion. The “easiest” to reach is the Blue Lakes Hut, 5.2 miles and 1,180 vertical feet from a trailhead. Each hut can be individually accessed, and advanced and experienced skiers and winter hikers can go hut-tohut in the European tradition. It takes stamina and winter wilderness knowledge to snowshoe the whole San Juan Hut System route, but an increasing number of people are doing so, particularly snowboarders, who prefer snowshoes to skis for the approach. Guide services and vehicle shuttle services are available and recommended for users inexperienced in the backcountry. San Juan Hut System, P.O. Box 773, Ridgway, CO 81432; (970) 626-3033; www.sanjuanhuts.com.

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Telluride and Lizard Head Pass TELLURIDE IS CLOSE via crow-flight to Ouray, Silverton, and other San Juan mining

towns, but with few paved roads in these rugged mountains, driving from one to another takes a while any time of year. Nineteenth-century buildings are the dominant style in towns that are squeezed into deep valleys surrounded by towering mountains. The surrounding backcountry, which in Telluride’s case includes the Lizard Head Pass area, is laced with mining roads and recreational trails. Hefty snowfalls provide a winter-long base for snowshoeing, skiing, and snowmobiling, but also mean that avalanche awareness is mandatory. There are now two Tellurides, the historic town along the San Miguel River and the newer, ultra-luxe development known as Mountain Village that nestles in a large bowl and spills onto the surrounding mountainsides and deep into the valley below. Once at the resort, you don’t need a car, so if you fly, don’t bother renting one, and if you drive, expect to park your car and leave it—except for excursions to Lizard Head Pass or other nearby winter routes. Use of the gondola, which connects the historic town of Telluride to Mountain Village over a shoulder of the main ski mountain, is free unless you have skis or a snowboard. For tourist information, contact the Telluride & Mountain Village Convention & Visitors Bureau, P.O. Box 1009, 630 West Colorado Ave., Telluride, CO 81435; (800) 525-3455 or (970) 728-4434; www.visittelluride.com. GETTING THERE Telluride is a long drive from Denver and other Front Range cities.

One option is to take U.S. Hwy. 285 south to Salida, tur n right (west) onto U.S. Hwy. 50, and follow it over Monarch Pass to Montrose, then tur n left (south) onto U.S. Hwy. 550. Another option is to take Interstate 70 west to Glenwood Springs, then CO Hwy . 82 south to Carbondale, turning right onto CO Hwy. 141 over McClure Pass and left (south) onto U.S. Hwy. 50/550. In either case, the last stretch is on U.S. 550 south to Ridgway , where you turn right (west) at the traffic light onto CO Hwy . 62 over Dallas Divide. Turn left onto CO Hwy. 145 and follow it to Telluride. Whichever route you select, the distance is nearly 400 hard winter miles from Denver , which translates to at least a 7- to 8hour drive. For Lizard Head Pass, take Hwy . 145, which connects Telluride and Cortez; drive west out of Telluride (the only direction possible) and stay on Hwy . 145 as it makes a left (south) turn on the outskirts. You will pass the Telluride Mountain Village access road on the left as you climb toward Lizard Head Pass. It is also possible to fly directly to T elluride or to Montrose, 65 miles away. Rental cars and van transfers are available from both airpor ts.

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Telluride is a gorgeous Victorian town wedged into a steep-sided box canyon carved by the San Miguel River and its cascading little tributaries. This long, skinny hamlet has an enchanted location, with mountains soaring from the edge of town, literally where the sidewalks end. Its scenic beauty is matched only by the abundance of doorstep recreational opportunities. The original Telluride, once one of the West’s richest mining towns, is awash with authentic Victorian charm of the sort that will melt your heart. In contrast is Telluride Mountain Village, an exquisite, elegant, expensive, and exclusive new resort enclave built in a large bowl into which most of the Alpine ski trails feed. Mountain Village also provides lift access to several outstanding snowshoeing areas where you can enjoy some of the best views and least precarious terrain without having to climb up to it. If you are snowshoeing for the first time, or if you want to extend your snowshoeing activities, Telluride is a fine place to do both. Pleasant trails become workouts if you run them. Guided tours add a dose of history to

your snowshoe trip. Routes in high bowls offer fantastic scenery, and lift access puts them within the range of casual snowshoers. However, the high, steep-sided mountains, frequent and abundant snowfalls, and even deforestation from long-ago mining activities make for real avalanche hazards, not only in the distant backcountry but along some easily accessible trails. Let “caution” and “conservatism” be your watchwords when you explore this magnificent region. Very good and exceptionally convenient snowshoeing routes are the winter incarnation of popular summer hiking, mountain biking, and four-wheel-drive routes at the edge of town—one easy multi-use trail parallels the San Miguel River directly in town. Out-andback routes prevail, which is a kindness, given both Telluride’s lofty elevation and its precipitous mountains. This is a place to be especially mindful of avalanche condition reports, even when you are snowshoeing within sight of the town’s Victorian rooftops. Telluride Ski & Golf, 565 Mountain Village Blvd., Telluride, CO 81435; (866)287-5016 or (970)728-6900; www.tellurideskiresort.com.

The historic town of Telluride nestles in a deep canyon, with snowshoeing trailheads where the sidewalks end. (Courtesy of Telluride & Mountain Village Convention and Visitors Bureau)

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Telluride and Lizard Head Pass Trail 171 SAN MIGUEL RIVER TRAIL ● Easy Distance • 5 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Highest elevation • 8,700 feet Lowest elevation • 8,530 feet Elevation difference • 170 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • None needed; local tourist map suffices

This riverside boulevard is Telluride’s easiest route, used (depending on snow conditions) by snowshoers, cross-country skiers, joggers, winter hikers, and dog walkers. Called the River Corridor Trail on some maps and in some guidebooks, it follows the San Miguel River from Telluride’s eastern reaches, skirts the south side of town, darts beneath the downhill ski runs, crosses the river, and continues west through the grandiose open space known locally as “the valley floor” that so far remains undeveloped—though if townsfolk can’t fight off a deep-pocket developer, this could change in the next few years.

The low elevation (for Telluride) and such aggressive multi-use can make for unpredictable snow conditions, but that’s where snowshoes really shine, offering flotation in powder, smoothing out the lumps and bumps on well-used snow, and gripping on the boilerplate hardpack from melt-freeze cycles and heavy use since the last snowfall. If You Want a Longer Hike. After crossing under CO Hwy. 145, the river trail connects with a continuing route that angles southwestward. It crosses Skunk Creek and then veers south to Illium. For a significantly more challenging option, look for a side trail that angles off to the left roughly 0.5 mile from the edge of town and climbs to the lower part of Telluride Mountain Village, a steep ascent of some 600 vertical feet. In addition to getting a real workout, you’ll probably find good snow on this north-facing slope.

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■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 2 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None on most of the route; moderate in a few sections below long chutes Starting elevation • 8,760 feet Highest elevation • 9,800 feet Elevation difference • 1,040 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • None required, but Trails Illustrated #141, Silverton, Ouray, Telluride, Lake City; USGS 7.5-Minute, Telluride; Map of the Mountains of Silverton, Telluride, and Ouray, Drake Mountain Maps are helpful

The popular Bear Creek Trail, culminating at a lovely waterfall, is a year-round favorite excursion for locals and visitors alike. (Though it clearly parallels Bear Creek, on some maps it

The Bear Creek Trail is one of the popular recreation trails reached directly from historic Telluride. (Photo by Claire Walter)

is called Wasatch Trail to designate its summersafe extension and/or marked as Forest Service Road 508.) From the trailhead at the foot of Pine St., it begins with a short steep section, which is quickly followed by a languorous uphill, roughly paralleling, but angling northeast, and away from, the San Miguel River. A handful of narrow chutes on the right could funnel slide debris onto the trail, so if you stop to rest, sip some water, or wait for a companion, don’t do so directly at these outlets. After about 0.3 mile, the trail curves to the right (south) and continues straight to the waterfall. En route to the falls, you will pass a few trail junctions and the remnants of old mining activity tucked into the woods—easy to explore on snowshoes. Don’t hike above the falls, where the avalanche danger is substantial from natural releases and slides set off by backcountry skiers and snowboarders above.

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Trail 172 BEAR CREEK TRAIL

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Telluride and Lizard Head Pass Trail 173 TOMBOY RD. ■ ◆ Moderate to challenging Distance • 1 mile (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low at beginning of trail; moderate to high at Owl Gulch, at 0.75 mile; also moderate to high on upper portions of the road Starting elevation • 8,700 feet Highest elevation • 9,537 feet Elevation difference • 837 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #141, Silverton, Ouray, Telluride, Lake City; USGS 7.5Minute, Telluride; Map of the Mountains of Silverton, Telluride, and Ouray, Drake Mountain Maps

The trailhead on the north end of Oak St. accesses an old wagon road leading to Tomboy, once the Telluride area’s largest mining camp, located high in a cirque that was aptly named Savage Basin. Where miners and mule trains once slogged, Telluridians now come to play. No other route offers such a combination of easy access, aerobic benefit, and gratifying views of the town and mountains. The lower sections of the road provide an excellent snowshoeing opportunity for the fit and ambitious, but the upper sections should be approached only under the most snow-sure conditions— and even then with caution, because mining activities thinned the trees well below the natural timberline. The Tomboy Rd. (Forest Service Road 869) is wide and technically easy, but the grade ratchets it up in challenge. It angles from town, heading due east and climbing steeply and

steadily for the first mile before making two hairpin turns and angling more toward the northeast. Step lively as you cross Owl Gulch about 0.75 mile from the trailhead. For many casual snowshoers, the demanding first mile is more than enough. In addition to safety issues, one benefit of turning around at the first hairpin is that you get to enjoy the views of town and the San Miguel River Valley all the sooner. One caveat is that the trail has a southern exposure and therefore is quicker to melt than some of the more sheltered routes. If You Want a Longer Hike. If conditions—yours and especially the snow’s—warrant continuing, you will pass Royer Gulch (again, keep moving) and through the Social Tunnel, blasted into the rock. On your left are the Bullion Tunnel and the Cimarron Mine, major landmarks along the Tomboy Rd., as is the Marshall Creek crossing, about 2 miles and 2,000 vertical feet from the trailhead. The creek crossing provides another goal, and yet another very sensible opportunity to turn back before reaching the treacherous (and, yes, savage) precincts of Savage Basin and the Tomboy ghost town itself. Even assuming that you’ve gotten this far, continue with caution. If, and only if, the snowpack is reported secure should you consider ascending past Marshall Creek. The other drawback to this route— and this is more one of snowshoe ability than snow safety—is that this might not be a good early-season or late-winter choice or in a dry spell, because the sun can fry the snow off of the south-facing slope into which Tomboy Rd. is etched.

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Snowshoers are treated to a free gondola ride. (Courtesy of Telluride & Mountain Village Convention and Visitors Bureau)

Trail 174 VILLAGE TRAIL ● Easy Distance • 1.7 miles Avalanche Hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,540 feet Highest elevation • 9,540 feet Lowest elevation • 9,240 feet Elevation difference • 300 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • None required; resort map suffices

From the Mountain Village plaza area, either begin walking or snowshoeing down the paved path from the top of the Mountain Village Gondola or ride it for free to the entry gate and information center. The starting elevation difference is insignificant, but walking rather than riding will add about 0.25 mile to your route. In either case, from the gondola’s lower terminal, cross the road to the trail sign that is marked Mountain Village Trail. This is the route you want, even though it is indicated as Village Trail on some maps and Telluride Trail on others. In any event, it begins on the south side of and parallel to the Mountain Village access road. It is an easy and secure trail, usually within sight and never out of earshot of the road. At the beginning and end, the sights include tasteful trophy homes, but the midsection pleasantly threads through the woods of spruce and aspen. At 1 mile, the trail breaks to cross Benchmark Drive, and from there, the views open dramatically to unfold a panorama highlighted by Wilson Peak, which rises spectacularly over the snow-covered golf course, the rooftops of more lavish homes, and the South Fork of the San Miguel beyond. The trail threads along the golf course, ending at the turnoff from Colorado High 145 to the resort access road and other often unmanned gate. Retrace your steps to Mountain Village, ascending on the return.

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Mountain Village Ever since snowshoeing began growing in popularity, the Telluride Resort has been hospitable to the sport. Guided excursions once were offered deep in the valley at the center of the Alpine ski area and later in Prospect Basin at the top of Chair 10. But where Telluride Mountain Village, the golf course, and Alpine skiing facilities are now located at the ski area base, and what was once the Prospect Basin backcountry, now has been developed for lift-served, inbounds skiing and renamed Prospect Bowl. Good lift access makes safe, high-mountain snowshoeing a reality, whether on a tour or hiking independently. The gondola does not require a lift ticket for snowshoers, who are considered foot passengers, and a two-rideper-day Nordic pass is sold for Chair 10, the Sunshine Express, where the ski area has also developed an on-mountain trail system called TopAten, with 6.2 miles of groomed trails. For an energetic workout, snowshoers are permitted to hike uphill (and down too) on any of the Chair 10 ski trails.

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Telluride and Lizard Head Pass Nordic Trails and Guided Tours TopAten Touring Area. Located at the top of Lift 10, Telluride’s Nordic trails and snowshoeing zone offer a surprisingly tranquil experience coupled with breathtaking views of the mountains in and around the ski area, including Prospect Basin, Palmyra Peak, and the Wilson Range. The Nordic system, which is maintained for classical and skate skiing and for snowshoeing, threads through serene forests and open meadows. Trails, a heated teepee, and a picnic deck are open daily. Telluride’s one-day lift ticket accesses the TopATen trails via Lift 10, a detachable highspeed chairlift that easily accommodates foot passengers carrying snowshoes for the ride. Uphill access in the Lift 10 area only is permitted and free of charge for picnickers or snowshoers who would like to hike down along the edge of one of the Alpine ski trails, but cross-country skiing or snowshoeing on the groomed system high on this secondary mountain requires a Nordic ticket. Nordic trails maps are available at the trailhead, at Mountain Village information centers, and at the Plaza Nature Center. Off-trail snowshoe tours are available for those that desire a more challenging workout while learning about the mountain environment from knowledgeable locals who lead snowshoers on moderate hikes through spruce, fir, and aspen forests. They make interpretive commentary on the area’s wildlife, forest ecology, geology, and history. These mountains contain rare high-altitude wetlands

known as fens, which are featured in these snowshoe walks suitable for participants of all abilities. Groups meet at 10:00 A.M. weekdays at the Mountain Village gondola base and follow routes of varying difficulty, suited to participants of all abilities on a two- to twoand-a-half-hour itinerary, usually either to Magic Meadows or to hidden areas of Prospect Basin, which was developed for Alpine skiing in 2002–2003. The tour price includes snowshoe rentals, a ride on Chair 10 to the TopATen Touring Area, and a bottle of water. Tour booking is available at the Mountain Village Ticket Office or by calling (970)728-7339. Skyline Guest Ranch. Located only 5 miles from Telluride Mountain Village, this friendly, informal ranch with 10 lodge rooms and 6 cabins feels a world apart. It grooms 5 kilometers (about 3.5 miles) of winter trails for doorstep access to cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, but even better is the easy access to 15 kilometers of marked but ungroomed trails. With a 1,700-foot elevation, the route to Alta Lakes (see Trail 175 for Magic Meadows) is not trivial, but it is convenient and quite popular with ranch guests with enough stamina and ambition. Day visitors are also invited to join Skyline’s half-day snowshoeing tours that include equipment, hot beverage, snack, and transportation from and back to Telluride Mountain Village. Skyline Guest Ranch, 7214 Hwy. 145, Telluride, CO 81435; (888) 754-1126 or (970) 728-3757; www.ranchweb.com/ skyline/.

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Mesa, this not-for-profit organization, whose revenues support educational and therapeutic causes, operates on 960 acres about 25 minutes from Telluride. The upper 600 acres offer a powdery paradise for winter recreation, bordering on national forest land and boasting grandiose views of the Lizard Head Wilderness. Recreational and educational programs, all with winter safety awareness, are wrapped into guided snowshoe outings that begin at 9:30 A.M. and end at 2:00 P.M. and include transportation, lunch, and equipment. Longer custom tours can be arranged, and snowshoeing programs with team building, leadership, and other professional goals can also be organized. Faraway Ranch/Faraway Adventure Programs, P.O. Box 3415, Telluride, CO 81435; (970) 728-9386; www.farawayranch.org. The Peaks Resort and Golden Door Spa. The Mountain Village development’s

largest full-service hotel offers snowshoe tours around the golf course as part of its winter activities program. The Peaks Resort & Golden Door Spa, 136 Country Club Drive, P.O. Box 2702, Telluride Mountain Village, CO 81435; (800) 789-2220 or (970) 728-6800; www.thepeaksresort.com.

Trail 175 MAGIC MEADOWS ● ■ Easy to moderate Distance • Up to 4 to 5 miles (one way), depending on the route Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 10,800 feet (top of Chair 10) Highest elevation • 10,800 feet Lowest elevation • 10,500 feet Elevation difference • Varies, but maximum is 300 feet (ascend on the return) Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes (access from Alta Lakes) Maps • Trails Illustrated #141, Silverton, Ouray, Telluride, Lake City; USGS 7.5Minute, Telluride; Map of the Mountains of Silverton, Telluride, and Ouray, Drake Mountain Maps

Ride Chair 10, cross the ski run past the TopATen Touring Center, continue through the first trail intersection, and take the trail straight ahead, following it mostly downhill for about 1.5 miles. You will pass through white pine woods on a wide, groomed trail until you reach expansive Magic Meadows. On some maps, this area is broadly identified as Turkey Creek Mesa, but Magic Meadows is a suitable name, because the views seem to have been conjured up by a wizard of a scene painter. The Meadows provide an incredible panorama of 14,017-foot Wilson Peak, the Lizard Head formation, and the San Sophia Ridge. You can bear left and snowshoe around Bald Mountain, the humpy knob to the south, or continue straight into the heart of the Magic Meadows routes. Continue straight at the intersection of the groomed trails to make a pleasant loop through the open meadow. Take a hard right (north) to explore the mesa top or a left toward Alta and Alta Lakes (see below). The Magic Meadows loop alone is 4 to 5 miles, depending on your precise route, and as you

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Faraway Ranch and Faraway Adventure Programs. Located on Wilson

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Telluride and Lizard Head Pass are heading out and exploring around Alta Lakes, remember that the return route to Chair 10, though gentle, is mostly uphill. If You Want a Longer Hike. If the weather is fine (and promising to stay so) and you are feeling frisky, continue across Magic Meadows to Alta Lakes. Cross the Meadows on the groomed trail to a well-marked intersection with Boomerang Rd. (Forest Service Road 532), passing around Bald Mountain on your left to the ghost town of Alta, a distance of about 1.5 miles. In “town,” bear left (east) and left again, following Forest Service Road 632A (from the intersection with Forest Service Road 632B) roughly 1 mile to the trio of Alta Lakes, which are frozen over in winter. The terrain is rolling and rather flat, but keep in mind that the hike to Alta adds a 3-mile round-trip, and the add-on to Alta Lakes is a total of 5 miles round-trip to your tour, not insignificant at elevations that top 10,000 feet—in fact, substantially significant as Alta Lakes are at about 11,300 feet. Another possible option would be to make the steep descent of nearly 1.5 miles to Skyline Ranch (see page 310), a guest ranch off Hwy. 145, and have a car waiting or call a taxi from Telluride.

Splendid is the scenery at Lizard Head Pass. (Photo by Claire Walter)

Lizard Head Pass It is but 60 miles—and light-years—between Cortez/Dolores with their wide mesas, piñonjuniper forests, and Native American-Hispanic cultural accents (see the Mesa Verde Country chapter, page 315) and Telluride, a fashionable oasis in the heart of the high, snowcapped peaks of the San Juan Range. As you drive north on Hwy. 145 from balmy 6,200-foot Cortez toward Lizard Head Pass, winter gets more—well—wintry. The landscape changes dramatically, becoming absolutely alpine at 10,450-foot Lizard Head Pass, named after the dramatic rock formation that—from some angles and to some observers—resembles a reptile’s head. Peaking at 13,113 feet, the Lizard Head is as much a symbol of southwestern Colorado as the Matterhorn is of Switzerland. As you approach Lizard Head Pass from Telluride to the north, civilization—especially the fancy resort brand of civilization— recedes and the sense of wildness prevails. The pass area itself is Telluride’s favorite winter backcountry playground, with fewer ultra-steep (and therefore less slide-prone) slopes than the daunting territory between Telluride and Ouray.

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Trail 176 RAILROAD GRADE (TROUT LAKE) ● Easy Distance • 3 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 9,900 feet Highest elevation • 10,200 feet Elevation difference • 300 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #141, Silverton, Ouray, Telluride, Lake City; USGS 7.5Minute, Mount Wilson; Map of the Mountains of Silverton, Telluride, and Ouray, Drake Mountain Maps

In the midst of the awesome, intimidating San Juan Mountains is one of Colorado’s most congenial and comfortable snowshoeing routes. A portion of the historic Denver & Rio Grande Southern Railroad railbed provides a gentle, continuous grade plus close-to-the-highway ease of access security. You can snowshoe along the railroad grade as an out-and-back route from either the northern end at North Trout Lake Rd. or the southern end atop Lizard Head Pass, or do it as a car shuttle. This muchused, much-loved road is wide enough for snowshoers and skiers—and even the occasional snowmobile—without conflict. Starting from the northern end of the pass, park at the small pullout and cross over the Lake Fork Bridge. To your right is a historic trestle bridge, the last such survivor of the old rail line. The snowshoeing route is the unpaved

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This historic railroad trestle is the last one remaining on the old Denver & Rio Grande rail line to Telluride. Snowshoers can admire it, but aren’t permitted to cross it. (Photo by Claire Walter)

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and unplowed Forest Service Road 636, a leisurely uphill through widely spaced pines, across a pretty, snow-covered stream (you’ll know it by the sign prohibiting vehicular traffic across a bridge that may be buried so deeply you won’t even know you’re on it) and eventually to an area of grandiose open fields. Most of the route is westerly, but when you approach Hwy. 145, the trail orientation is more to the southwest, paralleling the highway. You can turn around near the old corrals and retrace your route to the railroad trestle bridge or stay and play in the great powder fields. If you start from the south, you’ll simply reverse the route—though sometimes romping through the snow atop the pass is so much fun that you’ll never want to hit the trail.

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Telluride and Lizard Head Pass Trail 177 PRIEST LAKES RD.

Trail 178 CROSS MOUNTAIN TRAIL

● Easy

◆ Challenging

Distance • 2 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 9,500 feet Highest elevation • 9,700 feet Elevation difference • 200 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #141, Silverton, Ouray, Telluride, Lake City; USGS 7.5Minute, Mount Wilson; Map of the Mountains of Silverton, Telluride, and Ouray, Drake Mountain Maps

Distance • 4 miles (one way) Avalanche hazard • Low in the trees at the beginning; high above treeline Starting elevation • 10,050 feet Highest elevation • 11,250 feet Elevation difference • 1,200 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • Yes Maps • Trails Illustrated #141, Silverton, Ouray, Telluride, Lake City; USGS 7.5Minute, Mount Wilson; Map of the Mountains of Silverton, Telluride, and Ouray, Drake Mountain Maps

This unplowed road, paralleling the highway on the north side of Lizard Head Pass, makes a short and sheltered snowshoe tour. Like the Railroad Grade route (Trail 175), it can be snowshoed out and back from either end or done with a short car shuttle. It is best to start at the north end of Priest Lakes Rd. and park at the Matterhorn Campground. The parking at the south end is limited, because it is in a subdivision at the first left on North Trout Lake Rd., just 0.2 mile from Hwy. 145. If you are driving from Telluride, take the first “real” left off Hwy. 145 at Matterhorn Campground and the large Quonset hut; if you see Telluride Helitrax’s base on the right side of the highway, you have gone too far. The route is carved out of the hillside, roughly paralleling the highway, which is to your right. Cross one stream directly after the campground, a second stream shortly thereafter, and finally a third, the inlet to Priest Lake, near the southern end. The basically north–south route hugs the hillside and passes along the east side of the lake, terminating just off Hwy. 145.

From the parking area and trailhead on the west side of Hwy. 145, about 2 miles south of the Lizard Head Pass summit, head down into the gully until the Cross Mountain Trail sign is in sight. Bear right at the fork at about 0.4 mile, following the trail (Forest Service 635), which is an old four-wheel-drive road, as it contours up the mountainside. Watch the highway recede and the mountains draw in as you climb northward, as if magnetically toward the Lizard Head formation that shares its name with the pass, a small creek (which the beginning of the trail briefly follows), and the dramatic wilderness area it symbolizes. Like all routes in the San Juans, this is a spectacular hike. The first several miles of this route are relatively safe from avalanches, but do not succumb to the temptation of continuing above the treeline to Black Face, a looming, nearperpendicular wall that is a notorious slide zone. Also, don’t be tempted to stray into the high open country beyond, dominated by such skyscraping peaks as Mt. Wilson and El Diente.

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Mesa Verde Countr y THE FOUR CORNERS , the only point in the United States where four right-angled state lines meet, is a geographical anomaly. Its nickname has spread over a starkly beautiful landscape of mesas and canyons of exposed rock walls and desert plants. It does not appear, on the surface, to be prime snowshoeing country and, in fact, it isn’t. Snowfall is more erratic here than in the state’s mountain regions, and snowshoeing is peripheral to the Four Corners experience. Yet, because one of the sport’s real pluses is that it doesn’t require deep or consistent cover, you can gain a different perspective on a place when you see and experience it in such an unusual way—which is to say, a winter way. The Colorado portion of the Four Corners, often called Mesa Verde Country, does provide some decent snowshoeing, and as you gain elevation into the San Juan Mountains, winter becomes more predictable, virtually guaranteeing good snowshoeing. The state’s sunny southwestern corner is not a place to put on your must-do snowshoeing list, but rather a region to put on a winter itinerary, when crowds are absent, and to take your snowshoes along and hope for snow. For tourist information, contact the Mesa Verde Country Visitor Information Bureau, P.O. Box HH, Cortez, CO 81321; (800) 253-1616; www.swcolo.org. Or contact Mesa Verde Country Economic Development, Ste. 928, E. Main St., Cortez, CO 81321; (970) 565-8227. GETTING THERE U.S. Hwy. 160 is southern Colorado’s main drag, from the Kansas

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border through Walsenburg over Wolf Creek Pass on the souther n end of the Front Range to Cortez and the Four Cor ners itself. From Durango, drive west to Mancos, Cor tez, and the entrance station to Mesa Verde National Park. For the Chicken Creek Cross-Countr y Area or Mancos State Park, go nor th on CO Hwy. 184 and follow the directions that accompany each of the descriptions below. The Four Corners are a long way—8 hours or more by car—from Denver and other nor thern Front Range cities and not much less from the souther n Front Range, but you can also fly to Durango or Cor tez.

A beautiful moon over Mesa Verde is a bonus treat for snowshoers visiting the Four Corners area. (Photo by Claire Walter)

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The jewel of the Four Corners region is Mesa Verde National Park, one of the West’s most extraordinary places and one of the world’s true archaeological treasures. What is a typical tourist attraction scene in summer—lines for the restrooms, cars waiting to get into overflowing parking areas, scorching midday temperatures—in winter transforms into a place of tranquility and purity, the quiet, stark beauty unmarred by crowds, and a benign climate that invites exploration. Snowshoeing across a mesa on ground covered in winter white, just as the ancient people saw it, or being virtually alone in a “PJ woodland,” as locals call the piñon and juniper growth of southwestern Colorado, is indeed a special experience. This World Heritage Cultural Site, one of four full-fledged national parks in Colorado, is the rare national park whose renown does not come from its scenic splendor or outdoor recreational opportunities. It is world famous for its ancient cliff dwellings and other archaeological wonders. The overwhelming majority of people visit in the warm months, and though the park itself remains open in winter, the accommodations, one of the two visitors centers, and some of the Anasazi sites are closed. Ranger-led interpretive tours of Spruce Tree House are given daily at 10:00 A.M., 1:00 P.M. and 3:30 P.M., weather and trail conditions permitting. Unlike in summer, there probably won’t be a waiting line, and you’ll be missing something really special if you don’t take the tour.

The park could not by any stretch be called a snowshoeing mecca, especially in this period of warm winters with below-normal snowfall, but when conditions are right, it provides one of the most fantastic days you may ever spend, combining snowshoeing with the unique cultural experience of seeing these impressive sites in a pristine and uncrowded way. The park’s single unplowed loop road makes an unusual and rewarding snowshoe tour. Consider it a bonus if the snow is good. Interestingly, snowshoeing provides a small footnote to the rich but still mysterious Anasazi story, for the park’s archaeological collection includes one wooden snowshoe. Unfortunately, it is not on display. Be sure also to visit the Chapin Mesa Museum (it’s warm as well as educational). Limited cafeteria service is available at the Spruce Tree Terrace concession building. To reach the park, take U.S. Hwy. 160 for 35 miles west from Durango or 9 miles east from Cortez. Drive south on the well-marked entrance road. This is a fee area, payable at the park entrance station. The road is paved, but it is steep and can be slick, so snow tires or chains are required. You can stop at Morefield Village and snowshoe the campground area in this valley, or continue about 20 miles to the Spruce Tree House parking area. Part of snowshoeing’s appeal is the ability to go off-trail and bushwhack. Unfortunately, Mesa Verde National Park is not the place to do that. You will get a park map at the entrance station, and because your options are so limited, you won’t really need a topo map. Stop at the chief ranger’s office, or call (970) 529-4461 or (970) 5294465 to check on road, weather, and snow conditions before hitting the trail. The park’s Web site is www.nps.gov/meve/.

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Mesa Verde Countr y Trail 179 MOREFIELD VILLAGE

Trail 180 CLIFF PALACE LOOP

● Easy

● Easy

Distance • 1 mile (loop) Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 7,600 feet Highest elevation • 7,800 feet Elevation difference • 200 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • USGS 7.5-Minute, Point Lookout, Moccasin Mesa; Park Service map given at the entrance station

Distance • 6 miles (loop) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 7,040 feet Highest elevation • 7,240 feet Elevation difference • 200 feet Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • USGS 7.5-Minute, Point Lookout, Moccasin Mesa; Park Service map given at the entrance station

Morefield Village is nestled in a valley that had once been homesteaded and is now a May to October campground in the valley below Mesa Verde’s high mesa. After the RVs leave, the deer return to the beautiful valley at the base of the mesa’s looming sidewalls. The paved road, which is unplowed, makes a pleasant, easy route of only about 1 mile. It winds past the park’s store, filling station, campsites, and picnic areas, which feel almost as unused and ghostly as the mesa-top and canyon sites that the Anasazi abandoned hundreds of years ago. The hillsides may look tempting, and there are, in fact, summer hiking trails to the ridges, but they are not recommended for winter travel. However, with enough snow, the entire valley floor is snowshoeable, and it’s neat to wander around, search for animal tracks, and simply enjoy the solitude.

This virtually flat road is very easy, but 6 miles on snowshoes is long enough to make it an endurance hike for many people. You must add to whatever distance you select—either an out-and-back walk or the full 6 miles—the 0.3 mile between the Spruce Tree House parking area and the beginning of the route, which begins at the Ruins Rd.–Cliff Palace Rd. fourway stop. That is the start of the mesa-top road, which provides summer access to the Cliff Palace and Balcony House, two of Mesa Verde’s best-known sites. The unplowed road begins to the southeast and then bends south. About 2.5 miles from the road closure, you will come to a fork. It seems natural to take the right fork to do the loop portion counterclockwise, which is the direction cars use in the summer. There are no mesa-top ruins along Cliff Palace Rd., and the famous cliff dwellings are closed in winter, but you should stop at two fine viewpoints. Both are on the western leg of the loop, which is another reason to bear right at the fork if you aren’t interested in, or can’t do, the entire loop. The first viewpoint is just before Cliff Palace, about 0.23 mile from the fork, and the second is a mile farther.

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If you have the stamina, the time, and the interest, follow a hiking trail to the Soda Canyon Overlook, on the eastern leg of the loop, for a view of Balcony House. If going nearly all the way around to this side trail seems too much, take the left option at the fork, hike about 0.45 mile and then return the way you came.

Mancos State Park is a small recreational area that butts up against the huge San Juan National Forest. From the center of Mancos, turn north on Hwy. 184. After 0.25 mile, turn right (east) on Montezuma County Road 42 (also Forest Service Road 561). Continue north for 4 miles to Montezuma County Road N. Then turn left (west) to the marked park entrance. Pristine and quiet in winter, the park offers ice fishing on Jackson Gulch Reservoir and a short snowshoeing and skiing trail around the lake. This is a fee area.

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Even at times when the snowshoeing is not prime, seeing the haunting Anasazi cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde National Park at their uncrowded winter best makes an excursion to the Four Corners worthwhile. (Photo by Claire Walter)

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Mesa Verde Countr y Trail 181 JACKSON RESERVOIR TRAIL ● Easy Distance • 4 miles (loop); 1.25 miles (connector trail to Chicken Creek, one way) Avalanche hazard • None Starting elevation • 7,800 feet Highest elevation • 7,800 feet Elevation difference • Negligible Snowmobiles • No Dogs • No Maps • USGS 7.5-Minute, Millwood, Dolores West

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An inlet canal from the West Mancos River within Mancos State Park feeds a small reservoir with about four miles of shoreline, created with the completion of the Jackson Gulch Dam in 1950. To reach it, Take U.S. 160 west from Durango 27 miles to Montezuma County Road 42. Follow it about 5 miles north to the intersection of Montezuma County Road N. Turn left (west) for 0.25 mile to the Mancos State Park entrance.

The reservoir is shaped somewhat like an arrowhead, not inappropriate for a humanmade lake overlooking the Mancos Valley and Colorado’s densest concentration of tribal lands and native heritage sites. The “arrow” points northeast, with the dam itself forming one flat side of the point, and the road entrance is from the east. The south side of the shoreline is fronted by open meadows, while the north side is fringed with trees. You can snowshoe around the reservoir clockwise or counterclockwise, passing the dam on the south end as well as two summer campgrounds. Most of the snowshoeing route is along unplowed roads. If You Want a Longer Hike. A trail on the northwestern portion of the lake links Jackson Reservoir with the Chicken Creek Cross-Country Area, 1.25 miles to the west, providing an opportunity to mix and match trails for hikes of various lengths.

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This tight trail system provides down-home snowshoeing, and when the snow is good, offers pleasing routes of various lengths. It combines the ambience of rural ranch country with congenial woods of piñon pine and juniper. You’ll mingle with outdoor-loving locals if you set off to discover Chicken Creek Cross-Country Area on a weekend, but if you go on a weekday, you might have it all to yourself. Volunteers from the Mancos Recreation Association groom more than 9 miles of trails for track skiing and skating, leaving ample room for snowshoers too. Unlike many Nordic areas, Chicken Creek not only permits but welcomes snowshoers and even encourages them to use the skating lanes. From the traffic light in the center of Mancos, take Hwy. 184 north for 2 miles. Turn right onto County Road 40 (Forest Service Access–Millwood Road 559), and drive 3 miles to the parking area and trailhead. (Note that you will pass Montezuma County Road 39, marked “Chicken Creek,” which is not the road to this ski and snowshoeing center.) The trail system is composed of three loops, one strung behind the other from the trailhead, weaving between small reservoirs. It offers undulating uphills and gradual downhills. All the trails are easy, so the challenge really comes from the distance you choose to snowshoe. Because the 7,500-foot base elevation is no guarantee of winterlong snow cover, this is not an area to count on. Views of the Mancos Valley and Mesa Verde National Park to the south and La Plata Mountains to the northeast

add to the enjoyment. Bring everything you need when you snowshoe here, for there are no concessions or rentals. There is no use fee, but the volunteers who maintain the system appreciate trailhead donations. They ask that you leave your dogs at home, because they do damage groomed trails. All three loops are both double-tracked and groomed for skating. The area is especially well marked, which is useful because traffic on the two inner loops is counterclockwise and on the last one is clockwise, making it possible for first-timers to forget where they are. To parry confusion, all trails are marked, and all junctions feature posted trail maps with “You Are Here” indicators. The 3.2-mile Little Bauer Loop, the one directly at the trailhead, makes an easy excursion. Add the second, the 4-mile Dolph Kuss Loop, and you’ll use up the best part of a day. The third is the shortest. Continuing on the 2.3-mile Hamlin Loop, with or without the addition of some of the 9 ungroomed miles, is only for strong snowshoers or runners. One kilometer along, the Hamlin Loop’s eastern leg skirts the edge of Chicken Creek Canyon, with great views of the La Plata Range. In addition, there are 9 more miles of marked but ungroomed trails—Rush Creek Spur off the northwest leg of the Dolph Kuss Loop, the trail down to Chicken Creek off the southeast bend of the Hamlin Loop, and the Turkey Creek Loop off the northwest corner of the Hamlin Loop. The right fork of the Turkey Creek Loop continues toward the unplowed Ditches Rd., a popular snowmobile route, 4 miles away.

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Chicken Creek Cross-Country Area.

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Mesa Verde Countr y Trail 182 BOGGY DRAW ● ■ Varies, but many easy to moderate Distance • Varies Avalanche hazard • Low Starting elevation • 7,750 feet Highest elevation • 8,600 feet Elevation difference • 850 feet Snowmobiles • Yes Dogs • Yes Maps • USGS 7.5-Minute, Boggy Draw

Take Hwy. 145 north 10 miles from Cortez to Dolores. Turn left at the large McPhee Reservoir sign onto Forest Service Road 526 (also known as the Dolores-Norwood Rd.) to the junction with Forest Service Road 527. There are parking areas at the plowed sections of both roads, with parking lots at the National Forest boundary.

This sizable area can be a gentle playground of rolling terrain, unplowed roads and open fields not far from the parking lot—or it can be a gonzo workout of up to 20 miles for the fanatical, fit, long-distance snowshoer far up the snowed-over road. The degree of difficulty depends on how far and how fast you choose to go. Sections of Forest Service Roads 526 and 527, which form a loop, are popular snowmobile routes. Mushers occasionally share this road, so you never know what the huskies have deposited on the trail. Road 526 skirts the non-motorized area on the east side of McPhee Reservoir, which makes it a better choice than 527. In any case, this is a place where many local snowshoers prefer off-road snowshoeing—and you might too—though if you do go off-trail, be sure to take a good topo map and a compass.

APPENDIX

Colorado State Parks According to Colorado State Parks officials, 23 of the state’s 39 state parks, as well as the Colorado State Forests, list snowshoeing as part of their winter recreation offerings. State parks with the most reliable snowshoeing can be found in the appropriate sections of this book, but others are available at least when snow conditions permit at others. The Web site for the Colorado State Park system is www.coloradoparks.org. You can expect at least some good snowshoeing at:

Barr Lake State Park (Brighton, 303-659-6005); Bonny Lake State Park (Idalia, 970-354-7306); Castlewood Canyon State Park (Franktown, 303-688-5242); Chatfield State Park (Littleton, 303-791-7275); *Colorado State Forest (Walden, 970-723-8366); Crawford State Park (Crawford, 970-921-5721); Eleven Mile State Park (Lake George, 719-748-3401); *Golden Gate Canyon State Park (Golden, 303-582-3707); Harvey Gap State Park (Rifle, 970-625-1607); Lathrop State Park (Walsenburg, 719-738-2376); Lory State Park (Bellevue, 970-493-1623); Mancos State Park (Mancos, 970-533-7065); Mueller State Park (Divide, 719-687-2366); *Pearl Lake State Park (Clark, 970-879-3922); Ridgway State Park (Ridgway, 970-626-5822); Rifle Gap State Park (Rifle, 970-625-1607); Roxborough State Park (Littleton, 303-973-3959); San Luis Lakes State Park (Mosca, 719-378-2020); Stagecoach State Park (Oak Creek, 970-736-2436); Steamboat Lake State Park (Clark, 970-879-3922); Sylvan Lake State Park (Eagle, 970-328-2021); Trinidad Lake State Park (Trinidad, 719-846-6951); Vega State Park (Collbran, 970-487-3407); Yampa River-Elkhead State Park (Hayden, 970-276-2061). (Thumbnail descriptions of parks marked * are found on the pages that follow.)

Snowshoeing

The preceding chapters include some of the best, most readily accessible snowshoeing venues in Colorado, but they barely scratch the surface of what’s available in the state. Following are some other natural areas you might want to try, though these represent just a deeper scratch.

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Black Canyon of the Gunnison Just as Mesa Verde National Park’s Cliff Palace Rd. and Rocky Mountain National Park’s Fall River Rd. are unplowed in winter (see pages 53 and 318) and available to snowshoers and cross-country skiers, so is the main road on the south rim of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. You can drive as far as the visitors center at Gunnison Point and snowshoe the remaining 6 miles for great views and a unique winter perspective on one of Colorado’s natural wonders. It’s also an outstanding choice for a full-moon snowshoe hike. Rangers conduct free interpretive snowshoe tours on weekends, and the visitors center lends snowshoes and poles. For information, call (970) 249-1915. Buffalo Pass Recreation Area Located northeast of Steamboat Springs and north of the Steamboat Ski Area, this large multi-use recreation area includes snowshoe and ski trails, a backcountry downhill skiing area used by a local snowcat operator, snowmobile trails that connect with Rabbit Ears Pass routes, and a winter closure area to protect the resident elk herd. Of the two primary trailheads, one is close to town (see Fish Creek Falls, page 270, for non-motorized use only) and the other is more remote (Dry Lake trailhead, at the end of the plowed section of Buffalo Pass Rd., is also for snowmobiles). Camp Hale Located just north of Tennessee Pass just off U.S. Hwy. 24, Camp Hale is set in a huge, open valley that was the site of the 10th Mountain Division’s training camp during World War II. From the plowed winter trailhead directly off the highway, you can explore this snow-safe valley, following the marked East Fork Valley, South Fork, or Resolution Creek Trails, or simply roam around. The Camp Hale area accesses the Colorado Trail and the 10th Mountain Division Hut Association’s Jackal Hut.

Colorado State Forest The Colorado State Forest takes up a huge tract of land in North Park, on the western slope of the Medicine Bow Mountains. Many of its 110 miles of summer hiking and mountain trails are reasonably accessible for winter recreation too. The main entrance to the forest, which functions as a state park, is 20 miles from Walden. The Never Summer Nordic Yurts (970482-9411) are popular for overnights. Weekends and holidays are booked far in advance, but Sunday and especially weeknight reservations are usually available even at the last minute. Cottonwood Pass At 12,126 feet, Cottonwood Pass is as high as many significant mountains, but because it runs through the state’s thickest stand of fourteeners, it is the elevation of the pass itself threading through higher mountains. From 9,218-foot Rainbow Lake, the unplowed road climbs 10 miles to the trail’s crest on the Continental Divide, a greater distance than most snowshoers would even dream of. The road passes from a thick conifer forest into the tundra, offering a dramatic ascent at breathsapping elevations but good access from Buena Vista and Salida. Cuchara-La Veta The Cuchara Ski Resort flipped from owner to owner and opened and closed a number of times, but a network of old roads, including the Cordova Pass Rd. and the Old La Veta Pass Rd., continued to draw the increasing attention of backcountry enthusiasts from Pueblo, Walsenburg, and elsewhere to this pretty part of south-central Colorado.

APPENDIX A: Touching Other Bases

Eldorado Canyon State Park Close to Denver, Boulder, and Golden, this park is renowned for its world-class rock climbing. After a snowfall, and only after snowfall, it also provides excellent snowshoeing opportunities close to Colorado’s biggest population center. A few trails accessed from the east side—that is, from the hamlet of Eldorado Springs—lead past dramatic rock outcroppings and formidable cliffs. Routes on the west side of the park are connected with those of Walker Ranch, managed by Boulder County Parks, and provide more open terrain and broad vistas. For information and snow conditions, call (303) 494-3943.

Flat Tops Wilderness This is Colorado’s second-largest wilderness area, but there are few approach roads and few of those are plowed. Yet the entire region, even that on the fringe of the wilderness, is spectacular. The wide-open spaces and big skies high on the White River Plateau inspired the concept of protected wilderness. Several winter trails flank West Elk Creek Rd., roughly 20 miles northwest of Glenwood Springs. Trappers Lake (on the northern edge of the Flat Tops Wilderness) and the rustic lodge of the same name (970-878-3336) are an off-thebeaten-path destination for snowshoers, crosscountry skiers, and snowmobilers. Located about 40 miles from Meeker, Trappers Lake is hard for many people to reach but worth the effort for its beauty and the quality of the snow.

Snowshoeing

Elk Meadow When there’s snow on the ground at moderate elevations, this 1,140-acre Jefferson County park, which adjoins Denver Mountain Park and Colorado Division of Wildlife land, provides excellent snowshoeing trails that are easily accessible from Denver and the western suburbs. The park entrance is just off CO Hwy. 74 between Bergen Park and Evergreen. Trails can be assembled into loops of various lengths, and if you are looking for elevation gain, you can ascend 9,708-foot Bergen Peak. For Jeffco Open Space information, call (303) 403-2430.

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Durango Mountain Resort Formerly called Purgatory, this mountain resort development 26 miles north of Durango attracts skiers and other snowsports lovers. The resort’s innovative Total Adventure Ticket, which enables skiers and snowboarders to exchange one day on the slopes for another activity, can select a day of guided backcountry snowshoeing. These snowshoe tours include snowshoes, poles, the services and expertise of the guide, lunch, and water. Reservations, which are required, must be made by 4:00 P.M. on the day prior to the tour by calling (970) 385-2147. Additionally, lift-accessed, on-mountain full-moon snowshoe tours are offered monthly from January to March, including a hot chocolate stop at the Powderhouse midmountain lodge. Snowshoers ride up the mountain on the last lift of the day and snowshoe back down at the end of the day. Reservations are required. Details and reservations from (970) 247-9000, Ext. 147. Independent snowshoers have convenient access to Havilland Lake, Lime Creek, and Molas Pass (see descriptions below), and snowshoe rentals are available at the resort. For resort information and reservations, call (800) 982-6103 or go to www.durangomountainresort.com.

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Golden Gate Canyon State Park This park, within close proximity to Denver and Golden, occupies 12,000 acres of forested mountains, rock-rimmed canyons, upland valleys, and historic artifacts from the early days of Colorado mining and ranching. As every Front Range snowshoer knows, cover can vary, but when the snow conditions are favorable, Horseshoe Trail to Frazer Meadow, Buffalo Trail to Forgotten Valley, Elk Trail, Raccoon Trail to Panorama Point, and Mule Deer Trail rank as commendable winter routes. The park also offers winter camping at two campgrounds and rents winterized camping cabins and yurts for a backcountry experience just 30 miles from Denver. For park information and snow conditions, call (303) 582-3707. For cabin or yurt reservations, call (800) 678-2267 or (303) 470-1144. Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve At this national park, which contains the largest sand dunes in North America, you don’t need winter to snowshoe. Heck, you don’t even need snow. Climbing up and around these enormous shifting hills of sand, that rise as high as 700 feet, is a unique thrill, and on a moonlit night, there’s no place better. Years ago, there was a summer snowshoe race on the dunes, but the Park Service decided it was not a suitable organized activity in what will soon be a full-fledged national park. If you snowshoe here in summer, the threats here are more along the lines of sunburn and dehydration than of frostbite and hypothermia—and avalanches are not a problem.

Havilland Lake This summer campground between Durango and the Durango Mountain Resort offers easy and scenic snowshoeing on its roads as well as access to an adjacent road that is both unpaved and unplowed. An old wagon road makes a 3mile loop for anyone wishing for a longer and more interesting hike. Horsethief Park Located on the west side of Pikes Peak, this snowy valley draws snowshoers and crosscountry skiers from the Colorado Springs area. The parking area is just off CO Hwy. 67. One main trail divides into three options, which range from moderate to the challenging Pancake Rocks Trail, with an elevation gain of as much as 1,400 feet for snowshoers who want a workout. Kenosha Pass This 10,000-foot pass separates the mountains of Jefferson County southwest of Denver from the grandiose expanse of South Park. On the pass you’ll find a section of the Colorado Trail, a summer campground that perches on top of it, and a couple of old logging roads, all of which provide fine winter recreation trails not far from metro Denver. Lime Creek From a trailhead 2 miles north of the Durango Mountain Resort, the Lime Creek Rd. is prime snowshoeing territory. This popular route is a former stagecoach road up to Silverton and is used by snowmobilers to access high cabins. Snowshoers hike along this forested route to the bases of Spud Mountain and, even better, the Needle Mountains, which tower dramatically above a spectacular gorge and soar to 13,000 feet.

APPENDIX A: Touching Other Bases

Molas Pass This dramatic 10,910-foot pass between Silverton and Durango Mountain Resort offers incredible views of Engineer Mountain, the Grand Turk, and the Grenadier Range. Additional benefits are acres and acres of sparsely wooded rolling terrain and little avalanche danger. Take Andrew Lake Rd. on the west side of U.S. Hwy. 550 to the frozen lake, just 0.5 mile off the highway, or bushwhack around the sparse stands of new-growth pine. Mt. Falcon Park This 1,400-acre preserve, just outside Morrison off U.S. Hwy. 285 south approximately 20 miles from Denver, is the crown jewel of Jefferson County’s fantastic Open Space program. There’s not always snow in the lower-elevation sections of the park, but snow is surer on the upper sections. After a storm, snowshoers and skiers are legion on many of the 10 miles of trails, and there are plenty of meadows and other off-trail exploration as well. Powderhorn Wilderness Remote and magnificent, this wilderness area in the northern San Juan Mountains embraces high plateaus, deep forests, and incredible views that stretch all the way to the Sawatch Range. Slumgullion Pass, between Creede and Lake City, accesses a tiny section of the wilderness. Mesa Seco, just west of the protected wilderness, is also accessible in winter, with snowshoers, skiers, and snowmobilers sharing the terrain.

Red Feather Lakes Fourteen lakes sprinkled in a basin north of the Cache la Poudre Canyon 50 miles from Fort Collins are a northern Colorado recreational haven. The winter centerpiece is the Beaver Meadows Ranch Resort and Nordic Center (970-881-2450), which has developed four or five dedicated snowshoe trails. Numerous trails also reach from the ranch into national forest land. Roxborough State Park With a low elevation, this beautiful park 20 miles southwest of Denver does not offer guaranteed snow cover, but after a storm, when the sandstone cliffs and canyons are blanketed in white, it is a dramatic, beautiful, and convenient snowshoeing destination. The 18 miles of trails include both flat routes along the valley floor and ascents up the park’s hillsides. Sarvis Creek Wilderness The Sarvis Creek Wilderness, just 12 miles southwest of Steamboat Springs, is more pristine than dramatic. Plowed winter access roads enable snowshoers and skiers to reach several lovely trails through the quiet forest that characterizes this little-known preserve in northcentral Colorado.

Snowshoeing

Rampart Range The trails that lace through the mountains surrounding Rampart Reservoir offer abundant snowshoeing possibilities. Because of earlier logging and haphazard and incomplete signage, even regulars sometimes get confused on some of the routes, many of which are not marked and do not appear on most maps. Sticking to the known winter trails can provide first-rate snowshoeing that is very convenient to Colorado Springs and not all that far from greater Denver either. (See also Saylor Park, below.)

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Mill Creek More than 12 miles of winter trails paralleling Mill Creek and surrounding the Cunningham Park Reservoir are easily accessible from Gunnison. They can be combined into out-andback and loop trails of various lengths. The main section to avoid in winter is avalancheprone Little Mill Creek.

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Saylor Park This lovely and gentle part of the Rampart Range was designated as a ski touring area back in 1970, and now it ranks as an excellent snowshoeing venue. Various trails lead through this basin, which includes forests, flatland, and ridges. It is located just north of Woodland Park and a short drive from Colorado Springs. Silverton Not many towns qualify as snowshoeing destinations, but Silverton does. Lying deep in the San Juan Mountains between Molas and Red Mountain Passes, it is a busy summer day-visit destination for passengers on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. In winter, it slumbers under a blanket of snow, but locals and visitors make the most of the abundant white stuff. Snowmobile routes abound, which also provides plenty of packed multi-use trails for snowshoers to follow. There is even a flat, easy circuit around the town core. In mid-February, Silverton hosts the annual High Altitude Snowshoe Race, with 5- and 10-kilometer distances; go to www.active.com for event details. South Fork This former lumbering town along the Rio Grande River in southern Colorado boasts 165 miles of marked and maintained trails nearby. Snowmobiling is major, cross-country skiing is popular, and snowshoeing is starting to come on strong. The San Juan Nordic Club grooms an 8-kilometer loop at Beaver Creek Reservoir, off U.S. Hwy. 160 west of town, after each snowfall. Just stay off the tracks if you decide to snowshoe there. Spring Peak Pass A plowed highway, Colorado 149, threads between the Powderhorn and La Garita Wilderness areas. Squaw Creek Pass, on the Continental Divide at 10,900 feet, skirts La Garita’s western boundary. It also accesses the Colorado Trail and Snow Mesa, which just sounds

as if it needs to be on everyone’s to-be-snowshoed list. Taylor Park The Taylor Park Reservoir nestles in this huge and high basin between the Gunnison and Arkansas River drainages. Winter vehicular access is from Gunnison (the west side). Taylor Park’s numerous side valleys offer exceptional winter recreation opportunities, but be alert to avalanche conditions. Doctor Park Trail, South Lottis Creek, Stagestop Meadows, Summerville Trail leading into the Fossil Ridge Wilderness, Union Canyon, and Union Park are among the most popular sections with skiers and, increasingly, with snowshoers as well. Tincup Pass Snowshoers must be willing to share their pleasure with snowmobilers in order to really appreciate this route, which starts in the old mining town of St. Elmo and ascends to 12,154 feet. The first part is the steepest, so even the most tolerant skiers and snowshoers are frequently put off by the ease with which snowmobilers power up the unplowed road. The top of the pass is 8.5 miles from St. Elmo, much farther than most snowshoers can go. Buena Vista and Salida are the nearest towns. Wet Mountain Valley Located on the east side of the magnificent Sangre de Cristo Range in southern Colorado, this is one of the state’s most gorgeous valleys, with the town of Westcliffe in the middle. However, the valley also has a relatively poor snow record. The best bet for snowshoeing is to go there after a storm, when chances of snow are greatest. Drive to the end of the plowed roads accessing routes like Hermit Pass Rd., South Colony Rd., or the Rainbow Trail and begin hiking west.

APPENDIX B: Media Sources

Colorado Trail Guides

Current Winter Trail Guides Aspen-Snowmass Cross-Country Ski Trails, by Warren Ohlrich. Aspen, CO: WHO Press, 1989 Backcountry Skiing and Snowshoeing in Grand County, Colorado, by Deborah Carr and Lou Ladrigan. Tabernash, CO: Backcountry Bound, 2003 Colorado Mountain Ski Tours and Hikes, by Dave Muller. Denver, CO: Quality Press, 1993 Colorado Winter Activities, Trails & Tips, by Debra Acord. Canmore, AB: Altitude Publishing, 2003 The Complete Guide to Colorado’s Wilderness Areas, by John Fielder and Mark Pearson. Englewood, CO: Westcliffe Publishers, 1994

Cross-Country Ski Trails Near Steamboat Springs, by Geri Anderson. Oak Creek, CO: Trail Finders Press, 1993 The New Summit Hiker and Ski Touring Guide, by Mary Ellen Gilliland. Silverthorne, CO: Alpenrose Press, 1996 Peak to Peak: Colorado Front Range Ski Tours, by Harlan N. Barton. Boulder, CO: Front Range Publishing, 1995 Poudre Canyon Cross-Country Ski and Snowshoe Trails, by Mary Hagen. Fort Collins, CO: Azure Publishing, 1996 Snowshoeing Routes: Colorado’s Front Range, by Alan Apt. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 2001 Trail Guide to Northern Colorado: Hiking & Skiing in Fort Collins, Poudre Canyon & North Park, by Melodie S. Edwards. Boulder, CO: Pruett Publishing Company, 2001 Trails Guide to Front Range Colorado, by Zoltan Malocsay. Colorado Springs: Squeezy Press, 1999 Vail Hiker and Ski Touring Guide, by Mary Ellen Gilliland. Silverthorne, CO: Alpenrose Press, 1997 Winter Trails: Colorado, by Tari and Andy Lightbody. Old Saybrook, CT: Globe-Pequot, 1999 Winter Trails of the Front Range, by Charly Oliver. Boulder, CO: Sharp End Publishing, 1999 Out-of-Print Trail Guides

(still useful if you can find them)

Central Colorado Ski Tours, by Tom and Sanse Sudduth. Boulder, CO: Pruett Publishing, 1976 Colorado Front Range Ski Tours, by Tom and Sanse Sudduth. Beaverton, OR: Touchstone Press, 1975 50 Colorado Ski Tours, by Richard DuMais. Boulder, CO: High Peak Publishing, 1983 Northern Colorado Ski Tours, by Tom and Sanse Sudduth. Beaverton, OR: Touchstone Press, 1976

Snowshoeing

Snowshoeing Books Basic Essentials of Snowshoeing, by Phil Saviagnano. Guilford, CT: Globe-Pequot Press, 2001 The Essential Snowshoer, by Marianne Zwosta. Camden, ME: Ragged Mountain Press, 1998 Snowshoeing, by Sally Edwards and Melissa McKenzie. Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics, 1995 Snowshoeing, by Steven A. Griffin. Mechanicsburg, PA: Stackpole Books, 1998 Snowshoeing, fifth edition, by Gene Prater, edited by Dave Felkley. Seattle, WA: The Mountaineers, 2002 The Snowshoe Companion, by Claire Walter. North Adams, MA: Storey Publishing, 2004 The Snowshoe Handbook, by Len McDougall. Springfield, NJ: Burford Books, 2000 Snowshoeing: A Trailside Guide, by Larry Olmsted. New York: W. W. Norton, 1997

COLORADO

Books

329

APPENDIX

330

B: Media Sources

Snowshoeing

COLORADO

Skiing Colorado’s Backcountry, by Brian Litz and Kurt Lankford. Golden, CO: Fulcrum Publishing, 1989 Related Reference Books Exploring Colorado State Parks, by Martin G. Kleinsorge. Niwot, CO: University Press of Colorado, 1992 Field Guide to Tracking Animals in the Snow, by Louise R. Forrest. Harrisburg, PA: Stackpole Books, 1988 Mystery Tracks in the Snow, by Hap Gilliland. Happy Camp, CA: Naturegraph Publishers, 1990 Snow, by Nolan J. Dockson and Arthur Judson. Fort Collins, CO: Colorado State University Press, 1995 Winter Adventure: A Trailside Guide, by Peter Stark and Steven M. Kauzer. New York: W. W. Norton, 1995

Periodicals and Web Sites Inside Outside, publication that comes out eight times a year and is distributed free at sporting-goods stores and other outlets in southwestern Colorado; (970) 375-4538 Rocky Mountain Sports, monthly publication distributed free at Front Range sportinggoods stores and elsewhere in Colorado; it claims that 45 percent of its readers snowshoe, and aggressively covers the Colorado snowshoe racing and recreation scene; (303) 477-9770 Snowshoe Magazine, currently online only at www.snowshoemag.com, but with future plans for a print edition. Colorado-based, it includes substantial material on snowshoeing in the Centennial state.

Maps DeLorme Maps (paper and digital maps, including recreation maps), 2 DeLorme Dr. (off U.S. 1), P.O. Box 298, Yarmouth, ME 04096; (800) 561-5105; www.delorme.com. Latitude 40° Maps, P.O. Box 189, Nederland, CO 80466; (303) 258-7909; www.latitude 40maps.com Map Mart (downloadable USGS topographic maps and other maps), 12424 East Weaver Place, Ste. 100, Centennial, CO 80111; (303) 759-5050; www.mapmart.com Maptech (interactive National Parks maps), 10 Industrial Way, Amesbury, MA 01913; (978) 792-1198; www.maptech.com National Geographic Trails Illustrated, 210 Beaver Brook Canyon Rd., P.O. Box 4357, Evergreen, CO 80437; (800) 962-1643, (303) 670-3457; http://maps.national geographic.com /trails/ National Geographic Topo! Maps (interactive maps available for personal computers and at kiosks at retail outlets); (800) 962-1643; http://maps.nationalgeographic.com/topo/ Snowshoe Magazine, see above. Trails Illustrated, see National Geographic Trails Illustrated (above). U.S. Forest Service maps of individual forests are available from all district offices and ranger stations (see information in Appendix C). U.S. Government Recreation Maps and Recreation Site Information (links to pages related to specific sites of federal lands), www.recreation.gov Wildflower Productions, See National Geographic Topo! Maps (above).

APPENDIX C: Government Agencies

U.S. Forest Service Rocky Mountain Regional Office 740 Simms St., P.O. Box 225127 Golden, CO 80401 (303) 275-5350 or www.fs.fed.us/r2/ Mailing Address:

USDA Forest Service Rocky Mountain Region P.O. Box 25127 Lakewood, CO 80225

National Forest Offices in the Colorado Mountains Forest Supervisor and Administrative Offices Arapaho-Roosevelt National Forest Visitor Information 240 W. Prospect Rd. Fort Collins, CO 80526 (970) 498-1100 (visitor information)

White River National Forest 900 Grand Ave. P.O. Box 948 Glenwood Springs, CO 81602 (970) 945-2521 Ranger Districts Aspen Ranger District 806 West Hallam Aspen, CO 81611 (970) 925-3445

Blanco Ranger District 317 East Market St. Meeker, CO 81641 (970) 878-4039 Boulder Ranger District 2140 Yarmouth Ave. Boulder, CO 80301 (303) 444-6600

Grand Mesa National Forest Headquarters 2250 U.S. Hwy. 50 Delta, CO 81416 (970) 874-6600

Canyon Lakes Ranger District 1311 S. College Fort Collins, CO 80524 (970) 498-1375

Rio Grande National Forest (San Luis Valley Public Lands Center) 1803 West Hwy. 160 Monte Vista, CO 81144 (719) 852-5941

Clear Creek Ranger District 101 Chicago Creek P.O. Box 3307 Idaho Springs, CO 80452 (303) 567-3000

Routt National Forest Office 2468 Jackson St. Laramie, WY 82070 (307) 745-2300

Columbine West Ranger District 15 Burnett Ct. Durango, CO 81301 (970) 247-4874

San Isabel National Forest 2840 Kachina Dr. Pueblo, CO 81008 (719) 553-1400

Columbine Ranger District 367 South Pearl St. P.O. Box 439 Bayfield, CO 81122 (970) 884-2512

Snowshoeing

Street Address:

Uncompahgre National Forest 2250 U.S. Hwy. 50 Delta, CO 81416 (970) 874-6600

COLORADO

U.S. Forest Service

331

APPENDIX

332

C: Government Agencies

Snowshoeing

COLORADO

Conejos Peak Ranger District 15571 Country Road T-5 La Jara, CO 81140 (719) 274-8971

Holy Cross Ranger District 24747 U.S. Hwy. 24 P.O. Box 190 Minturn, CO 81645 (970) 827-5715

Dillon Ranger District 680 Blue River Parkway P.O. Box 620 Silverthorne, CO 80498 (970) 468-5400

Leadville Ranger District 2015 North Poplar Leadville, CO 80461 (719) 486-0749

Divide Ranger District (Creede Office; seasonal) Ave. 304 South Main St. P.O. Box 270 Creede, CO 81130 (719) 658-2556

Mancos/Dolores Ranger District 100 North Sixth St. P.O. Box 210 Dolores, CO 81323 (970) 882-7296

Divide Ranger District (Del Norte Office) 13308 West U.S. Hwy. 160 Del Norte, CO 81132 (719) 657-3321

Norwood Ranger District P.O. Box 388, 1150 Forest St. Norwood, CO 81423 (970) 327-4261

Eagle Ranger District 125 West Fifth St. P.O. Box 720 Eagle, CO 81631 (970) 328-6388

Ouray Ranger District 2505 South Townsend Montrose, CO 81401 (970) 240-5300

Grand Valley Ranger District 2777 Cross Roads Blvd., Unit A Grand Junction, CO 81506 (970) 242-8211 Gunnison National Forest 2250 U.S. Hwy. 50 Delta, CO 81416 (970) 874-6600 Gunnison Ranger District 216 North Colorado St. Gunnison, CO 81230 (970) 641-0471 Hahns Peak/Bears Ears Ranger District 925 Weiss Drive Steamboat Springs, CO 80487 (970) 879-1870

Pagosa Ranger District 180 Second St. P.O. Box 310 Pagosa Springs, CO 81147 (970) 264-2268 Paonia Ranger District 403 North Rio Grande Ave. P.O. Box 1030 Paonia, CO 81428 (970) 527-4131 Parks Ranger District 210 South Sixth St. P.O. Box 1210 Kremmling, CO 80459 (970) 724-9004 Pike National Forest 2840 Kachina Drive Pueblo, CO 81008 (719) 553-1400

APPENDIX C: Government Agencies

Saguache Ranger District 46525 State Hwy. 114 P.O. Box 67 Saguache, CO 81149 (719) 655-2547 Salida Ranger District 325 West Rainbow Blvd. Salida, CO 81201 (719) 539-3591 San Carlos Ranger District 3170 East Main St. Cañon City, CO 81212 (719) 269-8500 Sopris Ranger District 620 Main St. P.O. Box 309 Carbondale, CO 81623 (970) 963-2266 South Park Ranger District 320 U.S. Hwy. 285 P.O. Box 219 Fairplay, CO 80440 (719) 836-2031 South Platte Ranger District 19316 Goddard Ranch Ct. Morrison, CO 80465 (303) 275-5610 Sulphur Ranger District 9 Ten Mile Drive Granby, CO 80446 (970) 887-4100

Yampa Ranger District 300 Roselawn Ave. P.O. Box 7 Yampa, CO 80483 (970) 638-4516 State Agencies Colorado Division of Wildlife 6060 Broadway Denver, CO 80216 (303) 297-1192 http://wildlife.state.co.us

Colorado State Parks and Recreation 1313 Sherman St., #618 Denver, CO 80203 (303) 866-3437 http://parks.state.co.us Colorado State Forest 56750 Hwy. 14 Walden, CO 80480 (970) 723-8366 www.colostate.edu/Depts/CSFS/

Snowshoeing

Rifle Ranger District 0094 County Road 244 Rifle, CO 81650 (970) 625-2371

333 Walden Ranger District 612 Fifth St. P.O. Box 158 Walden, CO 80480 (970) 723-8204

COLORADO

Pikes Peak Ranger District 601 South Weber St. Colorado Springs, CO 80903 (719) 636-1602

APPENDIX

334

D: Equipment

Snowshoeing

COLORADO

Snowshoe Manufacturers (*Indicates suppliers of contemporary aluminum frame snowshoes that are widely distributed in Colorado.) *Atlas Snowshoe Company, 115 Tenth St., San Francisco, CA 94103; (888) 48-ATLAS or (415) 703-0414; www.atlassnowshoe.com Baldas USA, 1101 Wetherburn, WinstonSalem, NC 27104; (336) 659-9990; www.baldas.com *Crescent Moon, 1199 Crestmoor, Boulder, CO 80303; (800) 587-7655 or (303) 4945506; www.crescentmoonsnowshoes.com C3-Design Innovations (Verts snowshoes), 6146 South 350 West,Salt Lake City, UT 84107; (801) 281-1331; www.verts.com Dion Snowshoes, 397 Ross Rd., Readsboro, VT 05350; (802) 423-7537 or www.dion snowshoes.com Elfman Snowshoes, Accessory Productions, 245 Tank Farm Rd., #K, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401; (805) 543-9463 Emsco Group (plastic snowshoes), P.O. Box 151 Girard, PA 16417; (800) 458-0839 or (814) 774-3137; www.emscogroup.com Faber & Company, 180 rue de la Riviere, Loretteville, Quebec, Canada G2B 3W6; (418) 842-8476; www.fabersnowshoes.com Glacier Snowshoes, 5910 Dufferin Drive, Savage, MN 55378; (952) 440-6262 Great Bear Enterprises (traditional wood frame snowshoes), P.O. Box 428, Kila, MT 59920; (406) 257-6992; www.shopwrks.com/greatbear Great Canadian Canoe Company (traditional wood frame snowshoes), 64 Worcester Providence Turnpike, Route 146, Sutton, MA 01590; (800) 98-CANOE or (508) 865-0010; www.greatcanadian.com Havlick Snowshoe Company, 2513 State Hwy. 30, Drawer QQ, Mayfield, NY 12117; (800) TOP-SHOE or (518) 661-4644; www.havlicksnowshoe.com

Industrial Reproductions Ltd. (Arctic Trekker snowshoes), 610 Richard Rd., Prince George, BC V2K-4L3, Canada; (800) 663-6843; www.irl.bc.ca InSTEP Snowshoes, 4902 Hammersley Rd., Madison, WI 53711; (800) 242-6110; www.instep.net Iverson Snowshoe Company (traditional wood frame snowshoes), 85 Maple St., Shingleton, MI 49884; (906) 452-6370; www.iversonsnowshoe.com Litespeed Mountain Access Corporation, 12544 Kirkham Ct., #2, Poway, CA 92084; (619) 486-8940 Michigan Snowshoe Center, 522 North Fifth St., Roscommon, MI 48653; (866) 275-0300 or (989) 275-0300; www.snowshoecenter.com M2 Snowshoes, P.O. Box 386, Winooski, VT 05404; (802) 655-2364; www.m2intl.com Montana Snowshoes (Yeti snowshoes), 1409 South 600 West Ste. D, Bountiful, UT 84010; (801) 298-0476; www.snowstuf.com Mountain Safety Research (Denali snowshoes), 4000 First Ave. S, Seattle, WA 98134; (800) 583-7583 or (206) 531-9531; www.msrcorp.com Northern Lites, 300 South 86th Ave., Wausau, WI 54401; (800) 360-LITE; www.northernlites.com PowderWings (compactible snowshoes), 1325 West Industrial Circle, Springville, UT 84663; (800) 453-1192 or (801) 489-3864 Prater Snowshoes, 3740 Cove Rd., Ellensburg, WA 98926; (509) 925-1212; www.adsnet.net/prater *Redfeather Design, Inc., 4705-A Oakland St., Denver, CO 80239; (800) 525-0081; www.redfeather.com *Sherpa, 9640 South 60th St., Franklin, WI 53132; (800) 621-2277; www.sherpa snowshoes.com SnowFangs by Arete Outdoors, Inc., 2955 Valmont Rd., Ste. 310, Boulder, CO 80301; (303) 247-1313; www.areteoutdoors.com

APPENDIX D: Equipment

Atlas Snowshoe Company, 115 Tenth St., San Francisco, CA 94103; (888) 48-ATLAS or (415) 703-0414; www.atlassnowshoe.com Avi Probe Poles, Backcountry Access, 4949 North Broadway, #139, Boulder, CO 80304; (800) 670-8735 or (303) 417-1345 Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd., 2084 East 3900 South, Salt Lake City, UT 84124; (801) 278-5552; www.bdel.com Leki USA, 356 Sonwil Drive, Buffalo, NY 14225; (800) 255-9982 or (716) 683-1022; www.leki.com Life-Link Backcountry Products, 1240 Huff Ln., P.O. Box 2913, Jackson Hole, WY 83001; (800) 443-8620 or (307) 733-2266; www.life-link.com Redfeather Design, Inc., 4705-A Oakland St., Denver, CO 80239; (800) 525-0081; www.red-feather.com Yukon Charlie’s Snowshoes, 52 Gunning Point Rd., Plymouth, MA 02360; (508) 7590162; www.yukoncharlies.com

Snowshoeing

Selected Manufacturers and Distributors of Adjustable Poles

COLORADO

Stellar Snowshoes, 415 Tenth St., San Francisco, CA 94103; (415) 703-0720; www.stellarsnowshoes.com Tiptoe Snowshoes, 5068 West Technology Loop, #117, Corvallis, OR 97330; (541) 5636863; www.tiptoesnowshoes.com TSL Snowshoes, 925 NW, Ste. A, Portland OR 97209; (503) 241-9380; www.tslsnow shoes.com *Tubbs Snowshoes (modern aluminum and traditional wood frame snowshoes), 52 River Rd., Stowe, VT 05672; (800) 882-2748 or (802) 253-7398; www.tubbssnowshoes.com Ursus Snowshoes, 2019 East Seventh Ave., Vancouver, BC V5N 1S5, Canada; (604) 2544517 Verts Climbing Shoe (designed for ascending steep snow), Carney Composites Company, 6146 South 350 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84107; (801) 281-1331; www.verts.com Wilcox & Williams (Country Ways), 6001 Lyndale Ave. South, Minneapolis, MN 55419; (800) 216-0710 or (612) 861-2262 Winterstick, 208 U.S. Route 1, P.O. Box H, Freeport, ME 04032; (207) 865-2908; www.winterstick.com Yakima Snowshoes, 1385 8th St., Arcata, CA 95521; (888) 925-0703 or (707) 826-8000; www.yakima.com Yukon Charlie’s Snowshoes, 52 Gunning Point Rd., Plymouth, MA 02360; (508) 7590162; www.yukoncharlies.com

335

APPENDIX

336

D: Equipment

Snowshoeing

COLORADO

Selected Footwear Manufacturers

Selected Outdoor and Backcountry Instruments

New England OverShoe (NEOS), 208 Flynn Ave., Studio 2F, Burlington, VT 05401; (888) 289-6367; www.overshoe.com Salomon North America, 5055 North Greeley Ave., Portland, Oregon 97217; (800) 225-6850 or (971) 234-7001; www.salomonsports.com Sorel, Kaufman Footwear, 700 Ellicott St., Batavia, NY 14020; (800) 265-2760 or (519) 576-1500 Stegers Mukluks, 100 Miners Drive, Ely, MN 55731; (800) MUK-LUKS or (218) 365-6634; www.mukluks.com. Taiga, 1160 Labrant Rd., P.O. Box 2227, Bigfork, MT 59911; (888) WARM-FEET or (406) 837-0177 Tecnica USA, 19 Technology Drive, West Lebanon, NH 03784; (800) 258-3897 or (603) 298-8032; www.tecnicausa.com Trukke Winter Sports Products, Inc., P.O. Box 347001, Truckee, CA 96160; (888) 837-8553 or (916) 587-1001

Avocet, Inc., P.O. Box 120, Palo Alto, CA 94302; (800) 227-8346 or (650) 321-8501; www.avocet.com Backcountry Access, Tracker GPS, 2820 Wilderness Place, Unit H, Boulder, CO 80301; (800) 670-8735 or (303) 417-1345; www.bcaccess.com Garmin International (GPS units), 1200 East 151st St., Olathe, KS 66062; (913) 397-8200 Kestrel, Nielsen Kellerman, St.21 Creek Circle, Boothwyn, PA 19061; (800) 784-4221 or (610) 447-1555; www.nkelectronics.com Magellan Systems (GPS units), 960 Overland Ct., San Dimas, CA 91773; (800) 707-9971 or (909) 394-5000; www.magellangps.com Pieps, Life-Link Backcountry Products, 1240 Huff Ln., P.O. Box 2913, Jackson Hole, WY 83001; (800) 443-8620 or (307) 7332266; www.life-link.com Ramer Products, Ltd., 1803 South Foothills Hwy., Boulder, CO 80303; (303) 499-4466 Trimble Navigation Limited (GPS units), 749 North Mary Ave., Sunnyvale, CA 94085; (408) 481-8000; www.trimble.com

APPENDIX E: Other Resources

Hotlines (updated daily): Denver/Boulder for statewide information, (303) 275-5360 Colorado Springs for statewide information, (719) 520-0020 Fort Collins for the northern mountains, (970) 482-0457 Summit County and surrounding areas, (970) 668-0600 Durango for the southern mountains, (970) 247-8187 Aspen and vicinity, (970) 920-1664 Crested Butte and vicinity, (970) 349-4022. Also, Crested Butte Avalanche Information Center, www.cbavalanchecenter.org Colorado Department of Transportation issues Colorado Road Conditions, recorded road conditions, (303) 639-1111 from metro Denver or out of state; (877) 315-7623 from within Colorado but outside of the metro area. The Web site is www.dot.state.co.us. U.S. Forest Service, see listings under “Government Agencies,” Appendix C.

American Alpine Club, 710 Tenth St., Ste. 100, Golden, CO 80401; (303) 384-0110; www.americanalpineclub.org American Hiking Society, 1422 Fenwick Ln., Silver Spring, MD 20910; (301) 565-6704; www.americanhiking.org Backcountry Snowsports Alliance, P.O. Box 3067, Eldorado Springs, CO 80025; (303) 494-5266; www.backcountryalliance.org Colorado Mountain Club, 710 Tenth St., #200, Golden, CO 80401; (800) 633-4417 or (303) 279-3080; www.cmc.org Mosaic Outdoor Mountain Club (Jewish outdoor activities club), P.O. Box 24772, Denver, CO 80224; (hot line), (303) 8366662; www.mosaics.org/colorado National Forest Recreation Association, Ave.Ste.P.O. Box 488, Woodlake, CA 93286; www.nfra.org Sierra Club, Rocky Mountain Chapter, 1536 Wynkoop St., #4C, Denver CO 80202; (303) 861-8819; www.sierraclub.org SnowSports Industries America (trade association of winter sporting-goods manufacturers), 8377-B Greensboro Drive, McLean, VA 22102; (703) 556-9020; www.snowlink.com United States Snowshoe Association (governing body of snowshoe racing in the United States), 678 County Route 25, Box 94, Corinth, NY 12822; (518) 654-7648 Women’s Wilderness Institute, 2885 East Aurora, Ste. 23, Boulder, CO 80303; (303) 938-9191; www.womenswilderness.org

Snowshoeing

Colorado Avalanche Information Center, 325 S Broadway St., WS#1, Boulder, CO 80305; (303) 499-9650; http://geosurvey.state.co.us/avalanche/

Organizations

COLORADO

Avalanche and Road Conditions

337

APPENDIX

338

F: Trails Rated by Difficulty

Snowshoeing

COLORADO

Easy Aspen Flats Loop, 284 Bear Lake, 62 Beaver Meadows, 54 Bemrose Ski Circus Rd., 149 Bonfils-Stanton Nature Trail, 245 Brainard Lake Rd., 78 Brainard Lake Snowshoe Trail (to Red Rock Lake), 79 Buchanan Pass Trail (lower section), 74 Castle Creek Rd., 192 Cliff Palace Loop, 318 CMC Snowshoeing Trail (to Red Rock Lake), 79 Collegiate Peaks Campground, 235 Colorado River Trail (to Shipler Cabins), 260 Difficult Trail (lower section, to campground), 197 Ditch Rd. (Crested Butte), 218 Ditch Trail (Snowmass), 200 East Inlet Trail, 264 Echo Lake, 106 Evans-Rush Trail Area, 236 Fish Creek Falls, 270 Fraser River Trail, 247 Hessie Rd., 95 Interlaken Trail, 175 Jackson Reservoir Trail, 320 Lily Pad Lake, 140 Morefield Village, 318 Never Summer Ranch Rd., 261 North Inlet Trail (to Summerland Park), 263 North Star Loop, 197 Old Railroad Grade, 229 Pando Loop, 180 Panorama Trail, 204 Pearl Lake State Park Rd., 281 Pingree Park Rd., 44 Powderhorn Snowshoeing Trail, 291 Priest Lakes Rd., 314 Rabbit Run Snowshoe Trail, 201 Railroad Grade (Trout Lake), 313 San Miguel River Trail, 306 School Pond Trail, 127 Slate River Gulch, 216

Snowmass Nature Trail, 200 Sprague Lake (from Bear Lake Rd.), 59–60 Tombstone Snowshoe Trail, 282 Town Ranch Trail, 212 Upper Michigan Ditch Trail, 48 Valley/River Trail Loop, 262 Village Trail, 309 Wapiti Nature Trail, 126 West Bench Trail (West), 292 Wild Basin Rd., 68 Easy to Moderate Avalanche Creek Rd., 206 Bakerville-Loveland Trail, 116 Bassam Park, 237 Bierstadt Lake (from Bear Lake), 58 Boggy Draw, 322 CMC Snowshoeing Trails (to CMC Cabin), 79 Colorado River Trail to Lulu City, 260 East Shore Trail, 258 Gothic Rd., 220 Halfmoon Rd., 171 Knight Ridge Trail/East Shore Trail (East Shore Trail section), 258 Long Lake/Jean Lunning Trail, 87 Lost Pond Trail, 128 Magic Meadows, 311 McClure Pass (see Ragged Mountain Rd.), 207 Miller Mesa Rd., 301 Mitchell Lake (from Mitchell Lake summer trailhead), 88 Mt. Crested Butte Recreational Path, 215 North Inlet Trail (to Cascade Falls), 263 Nymph, Dream and Emerald Lakes (to Nymph Lake), 63 Old Fall River Rd., 53 Old Monarch Pass Rd., 234 Prospectors Trail/Trilby Flats, 283 Ragged Mountain Rd., 207 Rainbow Lakes Rd., 85 Richmond Ridge, 189 St. Mary’s Glacier, 107 St. Paul Ski Lodge, 299 Sally Barber Mine, 146 Seedhouse Rd., 277

APPENDIX F: Trails Rated by Difficulty

Moderate Babbish Gulch (to cabin), 205 Boreas Pass Rd. (to Baker’s Tank), 150 Brainard Lake Snowshoe Trail (to the CMC Cabin), 79 Calypso Cascades (from Wild Basin), 68 Cement Creek, 213 CMC South Trail, 80 Corral Creek, 158 The Crags Trail (to overlook), 124 Dunraven Trail (see North Fork Trail), 65 Dry Gulch Trail, 116 Fooses Creek, 231 Hinman Creek Trail, 278 Hollowell Park, 57 Hunter Valley Trail, 185 Jim Creek, 246 Knight Ridge Trail/East Shore Trail (from Arapahoe Bay to Columbine Bay), 258 Lake Edith Rd., 104 Lake Isabelle (from Long Lake), 88 Lefthand Reservoir Rd., 77 Lily Lake Loop, 179 Long Draw Trail, 45 Lost Pond/Geer Pond Trail/Outlook Trail, 128 Mammoth Gulch, 97 Mayflower Gulch, 153 Meadow Mountain (to the old homestead), 161 McCullough Gulch Trail, 147 Mills Lake, 61 Monarch Lake Trail, 259 North Fork Trail (to Dunraven Park), 65 North Rock Creek, 141 Nymph, Dream, and Emerald Lakes (to Dream

Moderate to Challenging Banana Rock Trail, 123 Bear Creek Trail, 307 Beaver Creek, 230 Bierstadt Lake (from Bear Lake Rd.), 60 Bierstadt Lake (from Glacier Basin Parking Area), 61 Brainard Lake Loop, 82 Bridal Veil Falls Trail (Rocky Mountain National Park), 64 Buckskin Creek Rd., 226 Colorado Mines Peak, 244 The Crags Trail (entire length), 124 East Fork Dallas Creek Rd., 302 Fall River Reservoir Rd., 108 Green Mountain Trail, 262 Howelsen Hill/Emerald Mountain, 269 Hunkidori Mine, 137 Independence Pass Rd., 198 Lost Lake, 96 McCullough Gulch Rd., 148 Mining District Loop, 168 Mitchell Creek Loop (from Tennessee Pass), 178

Snowshoeing

and Emerald Lakes), 63 Old Grand Mesa Rd., 293 Old Squaw Pass Rd., 111 Old Vail Pass Rd., 159 Peru Creek, 135 Road 201B/C, 229 St. Louis Creek Loop, 249 Saints John, 136 Shrine Pass Ski Trail, 157 Snodgrass Mountain Rd., 221 South Elbert Trail, 175 South Fork Lake Creek Rd. (Twin Lakes), 177 South Fork Trail (Steamboat Springs), 280 Spronks Creek Trail/Crosho Lakes Trail, 285 Tie Hack Trail, 225 Waldrop (CMC North) Trail, 81 Walton Creek Loop, 275 Webster Pass (to Snake River), 137 Windy Ridge Bristlecone Pine Scenic Area, 227 Zimmerman Lake Trail, 46

COLORADO

South Summit Loop, 274 Sprague Lake from Glacier Basin Parking Area, 59 Washington Gulch, 217 West Bench Trail (East), 293 West Brush Creek Rd., 219 West Summit Loop A, 273 West Summit Loop B, 274 Wildcat Alley, 285

339

APPENDIX

340

F: Trails Rated by Difficulty

Snowshoeing

COLORADO

Mitchell Lake (from Red Rock trailhead via Brainard Lake), 88 Mt. Esther Trail (upper section), 123 Owl Creek Trail, 193 Rogers Pass Lake Trail, 99 Rollins Pass Rd., 98 Sourdough Trail, North Section (northbound), 83 Sourdough Trail, South Section (southbound), 83 Squaw Mountain, 110 Tomboy Rd., 308 Waldorf Mine Rd. (to Sidney Mine), 112 Weston Pass Rd., 174 Willow Creek Trail, 172 Challenging Allenspark Trail, 72 Babbish Gulch (entire length), 205 Boreas Pass Rd. (to top of pass), 150 Butler Gulch Trail, 243 Calypso Cascades and Ouzel Falls (from Allenspark), 68 Chinn’s Lake Rd., 109 Cross Mountain Trail, 314 Difficult Creek Trail (entire length), 197 Forest Lakes Trail, 101 Green Lake Trail, 214

Hell’s Hole Trail, 105 Herman Gulch, 115 Jenny Creek Trail (to Yankee Doodle Lake), 92 Lake Isabelle (from Brainard Lake Winter trailhead), 88 Meadow Mountain (to the line house), 161 Middle Fork, 232 Montgomery Pass Trail, 47 Mt. Bierstadt, 113 Mt. Esther Trail (lower section), 122 North Fork (west of Salida), 231 North Fork Trail (to Rocky Mountain National Park boundary), 65 Ouzel Falls (from Wild Basin), 68 Peaks Trail, 142 Red Sandstone Rd., 160 Rock Creek Rd., 70 Sourdough Trail, North Section (southbound), 83 Sourdough Trail, South Section (northbound), 83 St. Vrain Mountain Trail, 71 Sandbeach Lake Trail, 67 Smuggler Mountain Rd., 188 Turquoise Lake, 170 Waterdog Lakes, 233 Webster Pass Rd. (entire length), 137 Wheeler Lakes Trail, 151

INDEX

Adams Falls, 265 Adult Backcountry Snowshoe Tour, 163 Adventure Ridge, 160–61 Agate Mountain, 270 Alberta Falls, 61 Alfred Braun Huts, 191, 192, 193 Alfred M. Bailey Bird Nesting Sanctuary, 141 Allenspark Trail, 72–73 Allenspark trails, 69–73 Alley Loop Race, 212 Alta Lakes, 312 Altitude sickness, 35 American Lakes, 49 America’s Uphill, 194, 196 America the Beautiful, 119 Anderson Ranch Art Center, 199 Antelope Creek, 99 Arapahoe Basin Ski Area, 135 Arapaho National Forest, 139, 141, 156, 255 Arapaho National Recreation Area, 258 Argentine Pass, 135 Arkansas River, 166, 228, 235 Arrowhead, 163 Ashcroft, 187, 190, 191 Ashcroft Ski Touring, 190 Aspen Alpine Guides, 191 Aspen and Snowmass getting there, 185 map, 183 overview, 184, 185 trails, 185–99 Aspen Arches, 276 Aspen Center for Environmental Studies (ACES), 186–87 Aspen Cross-Country Center, 190, 196 Aspen Flats Loop, 284 Aspen Grove, 253 Aspen Highlands, 185, 194

B Babbish Gulch, 204, 205–6 Baby Head Hill, 214 Bachelor Gulch, 163 Backcountry SnowSports Alliance, 13 Baker’s Tank, 150 Bakerville-Loveland Trail, 116 Balcony House, 250, 318 Bald Mountain, 311 Banana Rock Trail, 123–24 Barr Camp, 120 Bartlett Gulch, 176 BASH Series, 195 Bassam Park, 237 Bates, Katherine Lee, 119 Bear Creek Trail, 307 Bear Lake, 56, 57, 60, 62 Bear Lake Rd. trails, 56, 60 Beaver Creek Salida, 230 Vail Valley, 162–63 Beaver Creek Cross-Country Center, 162–63 Beaver Creek Trail System, 224 Beaver Creek Village, 162, 163 Beaver Meadows, 54–55 Bemrose Ski Circus Rd., 149 The Bench, 211, 214 Benedict, Fritz, 188 Benedict Hut, 185, 188

Snowshoeing

A

Benedict Trail, 197 Bergen Park, 103 Berthoud Pass, 242, 243 Bierstadt Lake, 58, 60–61 Bigfoot Snowshoe Tours, 94 Big Meadows, 262–63 Big Mine Loop, 211 Big Union Peak, 174 Black Face, 314 Blackhawk, 250–51 Blue Lake, 89 Blue Lakes Hut, 302 Boggy Draw, 322 Bonfils-Stanton Foundation Nature Trail, 245 Boreas Pass Rd., 150–51 Boulder, 91 Boulder Brook Trail, 59 Boulder Canyon, 91, 92 Boulder Outdoor Center (BOC), 94 Brainard Lake Cut-Off Trail, 81 Brainard Lake Loop, 82 Brainard Lake Rd., 78 Brainard Lakes Recreation Area getting there, 77 map, 75 overview, 76–77 trails, 77–85 trails beyond, 85–89 Brainard Lake Winter Trail, 88 Breckenridge, 133, 141–51 Breckenridge Nature Series, 145 Breckenridge Nordic Center, 143–45 Breckenridge Outdoor Education Center, 145 Breckenrige Ski Area, 142, 143 Bridal Veil, 64 Bridal Veil Falls Trail, 64 Buchanan Pass Trail, 73, 74 Buckskin Rd., 226

COLORADO

341 Aspen Mountain, 190, 194 Atlas Snowshoe Shuffle, 161 Avalanche Creek Rd., 206–7 Avalanche Lake, 207 Avalanches awareness checklist, 39 clinics, 94 hazards, 37–38 probes, 38 transmitters/transceivers, 21, 37–38 Avery Peak, 219 Avon, 155

INDEX

342 Snowshoeing

COLORADO

Buena Vista getting there, 235 overview, 228, 235 trails, 235–37 Burro Trail, 143 Butler Gulch Trail, 243 Butte Mountain Resort, 210 Buttermilk, 194 Buttermilk Mountain, 184 Byers Peak Wilderness, 248

C Cache la Poudre River, 43, 44, 45 Cache la Poudre Wilderness, 43 California Gulch, 168, 178 Calypso Cascades, 68–69, 72, 73 Cameron Pass, 43, 46, 47 Camp Dick, 74, 83, 84 Camp Genter Loop, 208 Camp Hale, 167, 178, 180 Carbondale. See Glenwood Springs and Carbondale Cascade Creek Trail, 259 Cascade Falls, 264 Castle Creek Rd., 192–93 Castle Creek Valley, 187, 192 Catamount Lake Touring Center, 268 Catamount Ranch and Club, 272 Cell phones, 21–22 Cement Creek, 213 Cement Creek Ranch, 213 Chainsaw Trail, 248 Challenger Trail, 245 Chasm Falls, 54 Chicken Creek Cross-Country Area, 321 Chinn’s Lake Rd., 109 Chipeta Mountain, 229 Chipita Park, 122 Cinnamon Gulch, 135 C Lazy U Ranch, 255, 265 Cliff House, 119 Cliff Palace Loop, 318–19

Clothing checklist, 12 footwear, 12, 17–18 gaiters, 19, 25 gloves, glove liners, overmitts, 25 hats, 25 layering, 8, 23–24 vests, 25 CMC Brainard Cabin, 82, 86, 88 CMC Snowshoeing Trails, 79 CMC South Trail, 80 Collegiate Peaks, 189, 235 Collegiate Peaks Campground, 235 Collegiate Peaks Wilderness Area, 184, 210 Colorado Avalanche Information Center, 37, 38, 115 Colorado Department of Local Affairs, 39 Colorado Division of Wildlife, 125 Colorado Mines Peak, 244 Colorado Mountain Club, 5, 86 Colorado Mountain College Timberline Campus trails, 169 Colorado Mountain Ski Tours and Hikes (Muller), 3 Colorado River Trail, 260–61 Colorado Springs, 119, 120 Colorado State Forest, 43, 48 Colorado State Snowshoe Championships, 161 Colorado Trail, 179, 231–32 Comanche Peaks Wilderness, 45, 65 Continental Divide, 76, 178 Copper Mountain, 135, 151–53, 156 Copper Mountain Resort, 133, 152 Copper Mountain’s Snowman Triathlon, 152 Corral Creek, 158 County Line Trail, 295

Coyote Range, 255 The Crags Trail, 124–25 Crane Park, 182 Creekside Trail, 250 Crested Butte getting there, 210 map, 209 overview, 210 trails, 212–21 Crested Butte 3–5 Crested Butte Mountain Guides, 215, 217 Crested Butte Mountain Resort, 210, 215, 219 Crested Butte Nordic Center, 211, 215, 220 Crested Butte Snowshoeing Area, 219 Crooked Creek Trail, 224 Crosho Lakes Trail, 285 Cross Mountain Trail, 314 Crow Gulch Trail, 122 Cucumber Gulch, 144

D Day of Infamy Snowshoe Race, 204, 206 Deadman’s Gulch, 93 Deception to Upper Robinson’s, 195 Deer Ridge, 54 Dehydration, 35–36 Delaware Hotel, 166 Denver and Rio Grande Railway, 98, 178, 228, 313 Devil’s Thumb, 250–51 Devil’s Thumb Ranch Resort, 250–51 Difficult Campground, 197 Difficult Creek Trail, 197–98 Dillon, 133 Dirt Camp Trail, 253 Discovery Tour, 163 Discovery Trail, 245, 246 Ditch Rd., 218 Ditch Trail, 200

INDEX

E Eagle’s Nest Tours, 163 Eagles Nest Wilderness, 140, 152, 155 Eagle’s View Trail, 161 East Fork Dallas Creek, 302 East Inlet Trail, 264–65 East Shore Trail, 258–59 East Shore trails, 259 Echo Lake, 106 Eldora map, 90 trails, 91–92 Eldora Mountain Resort, 91, 92 Eldora Nighthawks Racing Series, 93 Eldora Nordic Center, 93 Eldora Snowshoe Trail, 93 Electric Loop, 211 Elk Creek Trail, 248 Elk Park, 121 Elk River Valley, 268, 275 Elkton Huts, 217 Emerald Lake, 63 Emerald Meadows Loop, 270 Emerald Mountain, 269–70 Empire, 242 Endovalley, 54 Equipment. See also Snowshoes accessories, 12, 21–22 altimeter, 21 avalanche transmitter, 21 cell phone, 21–22 checklist, 12 chemically activated hand and boot warmers, 12 compass, 21

F Fairplay and South Park getting there, 223 map, 222 overview, 223 trails, 224–27 Fall River Reservoir Rd., 108 Faraway Ranch and Faraway Adventure Programs, 311 Farwell Mountain, 279 Ferncliff, 69 First Light Trail, 272 Fish Creek Falls, 270–71 Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, 119, 128, 129 Food, 12 Fooses Creek, 231–32 Forest Queen Hut, 211 Four Corners, 316 Four Points Hut, 272 Fraser, 242, 244 Fraser Experimental Forest, 248 Fraser River Trail, 247 French Gulch, 144 Fresh Tracks, 187

Friends of RMBL Winter Ecology Walk, 215 Frisco, 133, 141–51 Frisco Nordic Center, 143–45 Front Range Mountain Guides, 94 Frostbite, 36 Frozen Dead Guy Days, 93 Frozen Toe Tromp & Glide, 251

G Geer Pond Trail, 128 Georgetown. See Idaho Springs and Georgetown Georgetown–Loveland Pass Trails, 112–17 Giant’s Ladder, 98 Glacier Basin, 57, 59–60, 61 Glacier Falls, 61 Glacier Gorge Junction, 60, 61 Glacier Knobs, 61 Glenwood Caverns, 204, 205 Glenwood Springs and Carbondale getting there, 203 map, 202 overview, 203 trails, 204–8 Global Positioning System (GPS), 21 Golden Peak, 160 Gold Run Nordic Center, 144 Gore Range, 140, 162, 241, 255 Gothic, 211, 215, 220 Gothic Mountain, 217 Gothic Rd., 220 Government Trail, 191 Governor’s Cup, 144 Gracie’s Trail, 199 Granby. See Winter Park and Granby Granby Ranch, 254 Grand Lake Touring Center, 265 Grand Lake Village, 257

Snowshoeing

daypacks/waistpacks, 8, 19, 25 emergency supplies, 12 first-aid kit, 12 hydration systems, 25, 35–36 maps, 12, 20–21 poles, 14, 18 ski goggles, 20, 36 sunglasses, 20, 25 sunscreen, 20, 25, 36 water bottles, 25 Estes Park Snowshoe Adventure Series, 55 Evans-Rush Cross-Country Ski Trail, 236 Evans-Rush Trail Area, 236 Evergreen Lakes, 173 Exercise Loop, 169

COLORADO

343 Diversion Dam Loop, 173 Dolph Kuss Loop, 321 Dream Lake, 63 Dry Gulch Trail, 116–17 Dunckley Pass, 284 Dutch Creek Guest Ranch, 282

INDEX

344 Snowshoeing

COLORADO

Grand Mesa getting there, 289–90 map, 288 overview, 289 trails, 291–95 Green Lake Trail, 211, 214 Green Mountain Trail, 262–63 Grottos, 199 Guanella Pass, 103, 112, 114

H Hagar Mountain, 117 Hahns Peak, 268, 270, 283 Halfmoon Rd., 171–72 Hallam Lake, 186–87 Hamlin Loop, 321 Harry Gates Hut, 191 Hawks Drift Guides, 300 Heartbreak Hill, 277 Hell’s Hole Trail, 105 Henderson Mine, 243 Heritage Trail, 272 Herman Gulch, 115 Hessie Rd., 95 Hidden Valley, 53, 55 High Country Duathlon, 196 Highlands Ridge, 195 Highlands Uphill, 195 Highline Trail Loop, 173 High Rd., 254 Hinman Creek Trail, 278–79 Hlavaty, Jana, 139 Hollowell Park, 56, 57, 58 Holy Cross Wilderness, 155, 192 Home Mountain, 276 Home Ranch, 275–76 Hoosier Pass, 149 Hornbek Homestead, 129 Hornbek Wildlife Loop, 129 Horseshoe Basin, 135 Horseshoe Park, 53–54 Hot Spring’s Pool, 203 Hot Sulphur Springs, 241 Howelsen Hill, 268, 269–70

Howelsen Hill Nordic Center, 268 Hunkidori Mine, 136, 137 Hunter-Fryingpan Wilderness, 184, 186 Hunter Valley Trail, 185–86 Hypothermia, 36–37

I Idaho Springs and Georgetown getting there, 103 map, 102 overview, 103–4 trails, 104–17 Imperial Challenge, 145 Independence Pass Rd., 198–99 Indian Peaks Wilderness, 76, 85–86 Inferno, 195 Interlaken Trail, 175 Iron Mountain, 205 Ironton Park, 298 Isabelle Glacier, 86

J Jackson Gulch Reservoir, 319 Jackson Reservoir Trail, 320 James Peak Wilderness, 100 Jean Lunning Trail, 87 Jenny Creek Trail, 92–93 Jim Creek Trail, 245, 246 Joe Wright Creek, 43 Jones Pass Rd., 243 Josie Mine, 141

K Kearney Park Trail, 173 Keystone, 133 Keystone Cross Country Center, 139 Keystone Resort, 133, 134, 139 Kite Lake, 226 Knight Ridge Trail, 258–59 Kremmling, 252 K9 Uphill at Snowmass, 191, 196

L Lake Agnes, 49 Lake Catamount, 272 Lake City, 298 Lake County, 167 Lake Edith Rd., 104 Lake Haiyaha Trail, 62 Lake Isabelle, 85, 86, 87, 88 Lakes Loop, 93 Latigo Ranch, 255 Leadville and Twin Lakes getting there, 167 map, 165 overview, 166–67 trails, 168–81 Leadville National Fish Hatchery, 173 Leave No Trace, 7, 29 Lee-Sobal, Melissa, 171, 176 Lefthand Reservoir Rd., 77–78 Lefthand Ski Trail, 77 Lily Lake Loop, 179–80 Lily Lake Trail, 208 Lily Pad Lake, 140 LionsHead, 160 Little Bauer Loop, 321 Little Hawk, 92 Little Mitchell Lake, 89 Little Pikes Peak, 124 Little Raven Trail, 77, 79, 80 Lizard Head Pass. See Telluride and Lizard Head Pass Lodge and Spa at Cordillera, 164 Logan Adventure Trail, 190 Lone Eagle Overlook, 129 Lone Pine Bowl, 254 Lone Star Loop, 93 Long Draw Ski Trail, 45–46 Long Hill Loop, 254 Long Lake, 85, 86 Long Lake Ski Trail, 87 Longs Peak, 56, 57, 111 Lost Lake, 65, 96, 160 Lost Pond Trail, 128

INDEX

M Magic Meadows, 311–12 Mammoth Creek, 97 Mammoth Gulch, 97 Mammoth Mine, 97 Mancos State Park, 319, 320 Manitou Springs, 119, 120 Maps Aspen and Snowmass, 183 Brainard Lake Recreation Area, 75 Central Colorado, 130 Crested Butte, 209 digital, 21 Fairplay and South Park, 222 Front Range, 40 Glenwood Springs and Carbondale, 202 Grand Mesa, 288 Idaho Springs and Georgetown, 118 Leadville and Twin Lakes, 165 mapmakers, 20–21 Mesa Verde Country, 315 Nederland and Rollinsville, 90 Northern Colorado, 238 Ouray and Ridgway, 296 Poudre Canyon, 42 Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side, 50 Rocky Mountain National Park—West Side, 256 Steamboat Springs, 266 Summit County, 132

Montgomery Pass Trail, 47–48 Moonlit Boreal Owl Search, 49 Moose Spotting Outing, 49 Moose Stomp, 251 Morefield Village, 317, 318 Mosquito Overlook, 170 Mother of All Ascensions, Snowmass, 196 Mt. Arkansas, 226 Mt. Axtell, 214, 221 Mt. Bierstadt, 103, 113–14 Mt. Crested Butte, 210 Mt. Crested Butte Recreation Path, 215 Mt. Elbert, 166, 176 Mt. Elbert Lodge Snowshoe Clinics, 176 Mt. Esther Trail Lower Section, 122 Upper Section, 123 Mt. Evans Wilderness, 105, 114 Mt. Massive, 166 Mt. Massive Wilderness, 172, 173 Mt. Princeton, 235, 236 Mt. Richthofen, 48 Mueller State Park, 119, 125–26 Museums Chapin Mesa Museum, 317 Denver Museum of Nature and Science, 226 National Museum of Mining, 166 Tread of the Pioneers Museum, 267

N Nederland and Rollinsville getting there, 91 map, 90 overview, 91 trails, 92–101 Needles Eye Tunnel, 99 Neota Wilderness Area, 47 Never Summer Ranch Rd., 261

Snowshoeing

Telluride and Lizzard Head Pass, 303 topograpic, 20 Vail Valley, 154 Western Colorado, 286 Mardi Gras, 196 Maroon Bells–Snowmass Wilderness Area, 184, 207, 219 Maroon Creek Trail, 190 Matchless Mine, 168 Mayflower Gulch, 153 McClure Pass, 203, 207–8 McCoy Park, 162 McCullough Gulch Trail, 147 McGraw Ranch, 64 McNamara Hut, 185, 186 Meadow Mountain, 161–62 Meadows Ski Trail, 45–46, 47 Meeker Park Trail, 67 Merry-Go-Round, 195 Mesa Lakes Resort, 294 Mesa Verde Country getting there, 316 map, 315 overview, 316 trails, 318–22 Mesa Verde National Park, 317, 319 Middle Fork–South Arkansas River, 232 Middle Park, 241, 242, 244 Mill Creek Basin Trail, 57 Mill Creek Loop, 160 Miller Mesa Rd., 301 Mills Lake, 61–62 Mineral Belt Trail, 168, 169 Mining District Loop, 168 Minturn, 155 Mitchell Creek Loop, 178–79 Mitchell Lake, 80, 85, 88–89 Moffat Tunnel, 99 Monarch Lake Trail, 259–60 Monarch Pass, 230 Montezuma, 134, 136

COLORADO

345 Loveland Valley, 116 Lower Sundance Loop, 199 Low Rd., 254 Lulu City, 260–61 Luna Chase Snowshoe Race, 139

INDEX

346 Snowshoeing

COLORADO

Never Summer Range, 241, 255 Never Summer Wilderness Area, 43 New York Mountain, 162 9 Mile Mountain, 253 9 Mile Trail, 253 Niwot Cut-Off, 87 Niwot Ridge, 78 Nokhu Crags, 47, 48 North Boundary Trail, 66 North Fooses Trail, 232 North Fork, 231 North Fork Trail (Dunraven Trail), 65–66 North Inlet Trail, 263–64 North Park, 43, 46 North Rock Creek, 141 North Sourdough Trail, 73 North Star Loop, 197 North Star Nature Preserve, 191, 197 Nymph Lake, 63

O Off-Track, Off-Beat Snowshoe Race, 171 Old Boston Mine, 153 Old Fall River Rd., 53–54 Old Grand Mesa Rd., 293 Old Monarch Pass Rd., 234 Old Railroad Grade, 229 Old Squaw Pass Rd., 111 Old Vail Pass Rd., 159 Orbit Loop, 291 Oro City, 171 Oro Gulch, 168 Orton Loop, 270 Orvis Hot Springs, 297 Ouray and Ridgway getting there, 298 map, 296 overview, 33, 297–98 trails, 299–302 Ouray Hot Springs, 297 Ouray’s Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa and Lodge, 297

Outdoor Recreation Search-andRescue Card (CORSAR), 39 Outlook Ridge Trail, 128–29 Ouzel Falls, 68–69, 72, 73 Owl Creek Trail, 193–94

P Pando Loop, 180–81 Panorama Trail, 204–5 Par-a-lel Route, 274 Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort and Spa, 164 Pawnee Pass Trail, 87, 88 Peaceful Valley, 73–74, 83, 84 Peaks Resort Golden Door Spa, 311 Peaks Trail, 142 Peak to Peak Trek, 139 Pearl Lake State Park, 281 Pennsylvania Mine, 135 Perkins, Bill, 167 Peru Creek, 135, 139 Peter Estin Hut, 191 Peter’s Trail, 253 Picnic Spur, 245 Pikes Peak Cog Railway, 119 Pikes Peak Region getting there, 119 map, 118 overview, 119–21 trails, 122–29 Pine Creek Cookhouse, 190, 191 Piney Creek Nordic Center, 181 Piney River Ranch, 164 Pingree Park, 44–45 Pittsburg Mine, 216 Platinum Holidays, 145 Poudre Canyon getting there, 45 map, 42 overview, 43 trails, 44–49 Powderhorn Resort, 289, 290 Powderhorn Snowshoeing Trail, 291

Priest Lakes Rd., 314 Princeton Hot Springs, 228 Prospectors Trail, 283–84

Q Quarry Mountain, 270

R Rabbit Ears Pass, 268, 270, 273 Rabbit Run Snowshoe Trail, 201 Ragged Mountain Rd., 207–8 Raggeds Wilderness Area, 210 Railroad Grade (Trout Lake), 313 Rainbow Lakes Rd., 83, 85 Rapid Creek Trail, 208 Raven Ridge Overlook, 129 Rawah Wilderness, 43 Red Cliff, 156 Red Lady Trail, 211 Red Mountain Pass, 298 Red Rock Lake, 79, 82 Red Sandstone Rd., 160 Red Tail Overlook, 129 Regions Central Colorado, 130–237 Front Range, 40–129 Northern Colorado, 238–85 Western Colorado, 286–322 Rendezvous Saddle, 272 Richmond Ridge, 189, 191 Ridgway. See Ouray and Ridgway River Corridor Trail. See San Miguel River Trail River Run Trail, 265 Road 201B/C, 229–30 Roaring Fork Valley, 185, 194, 196 Rock Creek Rd., 70–71 Rock Creek Saddle Trail, 70 Rocky Mountain Adventures, 49 Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory, 215, 220

INDEX

S Saints John, 136 Salida overview, 228 trails south, 228–30 trails west, 230–34 Salida Hot Springs, 228 Sally Barber Mine, 146 Salomon Nordic Snowshoe Series, 251 Sandbeach Lake Trail, 67 Sangre de Cristo Range, 230 Sangree M. Froehlicher Hut, 182

Snowman Stomp, 152 Snowmass. See Aspen and Snowmass Snowmass Club, 199 Snowmass Cross-Country Center, 199 Snowmass Nature Trail, 191, 200 Snowmass Resort Association, 196, 199 Snowmass Touring Center, 194, 199 Snowmass Village, 199, 200 Snow Mountain Ranch, 252–53 Snowshoe Ecology Tour, 139 Snowshoe Golf Tournament, 145 Snowshoeing cautions, 34 checklist, 12 distance and speed, 9–10 and dogs, 30, 32 and families, 31 health benefits, 11, 32–33 and running, 33 snow surfaces, 26 stomping, 26 techniques, 10, 26–28 Snowshoes adjusting, 16 bindings, 15–16, 19 cost, 14 crampons, 19 designs, 14–15 heel lifts, 20 for kids, 31 modern, 15–16 size, 16–17 Snowshoe Shuffle Fitness Series, 161 Snowshoe the Rockies, 55 Sobal, Tom, 9, 167, 176 Soda Canyon Overlook, 319 SolVista Basin, 254 Sonnenalp Resort of Vail, 164

Snowshoeing

San Isabel National Forest, 172, 177 San Juan Hut System, 302 San Juan Mountains, 297 San Luis Valley, 230 San Miguel River Trail, 306 Sarvis Creek Wilderness, 271 Sawatch Naturalists and Guides, 173 Sawatch Range, 230, 235 School Pond Trail, 127 Schreiber, Craig, 173 Screamin’ Snowman Snowshoe Race, 93 Seedhouse Rd., 277 Shadow Mountain Lake, 258, 259–60 Sheep Mountain, 229 Sherman Silver Purchase Act of 1893, 184 Shipler Cabins, 260 Shipler Park, 261 Shootin’ Star Trail, 129 Short Loop, 224 Shrine Bowl Snowmobile Trail, 157 Shrine Pass Ski Trail, 157 Sidney Mine, 113 Sierra Club, 5 Silver City Trail. See Mining District Loop Silver Ridge Trail, 254 Silver Spur Trail, 254 Silverthorne, 133, 139, 144 Silverton, 298 Skarvan, Erik, 191, 194 Ski Cooper, 167, 181, 182 Skyline Guest Ranch, 310 Skyway, 295 Slate River Gulch, 216 Slavonia, 277 Sleeping Giant Ridge, 270 Smuggler Mountain Rd., 188 Snake River, 136, 138 Snodgrass Mountain Rd., 221

COLORADO

347 Rocky Mountain Hiking Trails (Dannen), 3 Rocky Mountain National Park, 5, 94, 261 Rocky Mountain National Park—East Side getting there, 52 map, 50 overview, 51–52 trails, 53–74 Rocky Mountain National Park—West Side getting there, 257 map, 256 overview, 257 trails, 258–65 Rocky Mountain Outdoor Center, 234 Rocky Mountain Ventures, 271 Rogers Pass Lake Trail, 99–100 Rollins Pass Rd., 98–99 Rollinsville. See Nederland and Rollinsville Rollinsville–East Portal Trails, 96–101 Roosevelt National Forest, 69, 70 Routt National Forest, 270, 276 Ruggles, Terry DuBeau, 231 Russell Gulch, 103

INDEX

348 Snowshoeing

COLORADO

Sourdough Trail North Section, 83–84 South Section, 83 South Boulder Creek Trail, 101 South Elbert Trail, 175–76 South Fooses Trail, 232 South Fork Lake Creek Rd., 177 South Fork Trail, 280 South Park. See Fairplay and South Park South Platte River, 138, 223 Southside Trail, 259 South Sourdough Trail, 77 South St. Vrain Trail, 84 South Summit Loop, 274 Sprague Lake, 53, 56, 59–60 Spronks Creek Trail, 285 Spruce Creek Trail, 248 Spruce Tree House, 317 Squaw Mountain, 103, 110–11, 112 Squaw Pass Trails, 109 St. Louis Creek Loop, 248, 249–50 St. Mary’s Glacier, 107 St. Mary’s Lake, 107 St. Paul Ski Lodge, 299 St. Vrain Mountain Trail, 71–72 Stammberger, Fritz, 195 Stapp Lakes, 84 Steamboat Lake State Park, 268, 275 Steamboat Pentathlon, 270 Steamboat Ski Resort, 271–72 Steamboat Ski Touring and Snowshoe Center, 268, 272 Steamboat Springs getting there, 269 map, 266 overview, 267–68 trails, 269–85 Steamboat Springs and the Treacherous & Speedy Skee (Wren), 267 Stormy Peaks Trail, 45

Stumptown Loop, 168 Summerland Park, 263–64 Summit Activities Center, 145 Summit Canyon Mountaineering, 206 Summit County getting there, 134 map, 132 overview, 133–34 trails, 135–53 Sun Dog Athletics, 191, 194, 196 Sunlight Mountain Resort, 203, 204 Sunset Ridge, 169 Susan G. Kommen Breast Cancer Fundraiser, 145 Swan River Valley, 144 Sweet Home Mine, 226

T Tabor, Augusta, 166 Tabor, Baby Doe, 168 Tabor, Horace, 166 Tabor Block, 166 Tabor Opera House, 166 Tarryall Range, 125 Taylor Canyon, 215 Taylor Mountain, 232 Teller Lake, 97 Teller Mountain, 138 Telluride and Lizzard Head Trail getting there, 304 map, 303 overview, 304, 305, 312 trails, 306–14 Telluride Mountain Village, 304, 305, 309 Tenmile Range, 142, 144 Tennessee Mountain Cabin, 93 Tennessee Pass, 167, 178, 181 Tennessee Pass Cookhouse, 181 10th Mountain Division, 167, 178, 182, 192

10th Mountain Division Trail, 185 Teocalli Mountain, 219 The Home Ranch, 275 The Peaks Resort and Golden Door Spa, 311 300 Yard Walk, 250 Thunderbolt Mine, 141 Thunderhead, 271, 272 Thunder Lake Trail, 68 Tie Hack Trail, 225 Toklat, 187 Tolland, 97 Tomboy Rd., 308 Tombstone Snowshoe Trail, 282 Tomichi Creek Valley, 234 TopAten Picnic and Touring Area, 309, 310 Top o’ the Morning Trail, 161–62 Town Park, 211 Town Ranch Trail, 211, 212 Trails etiquette, 7–8, 29–30 loops, 10 out-and-back, 10 types, 6–7 Trail Wise Guides, 164 Trilby Flats, 283–84 Trout Lake, 313 Tucker Mountain, 153 Turnpike Trail, 250 Turquoise Lake, 170 Turquoise Lake 20-Kilometer Snow Shoe Run, 171 Twin Lakes. See Leadville and Twin Lakes Twin Lakes Reservoir, 175 Twin Peaks, 176 Twin Rock Trail, 129 Twisted Snowshoe Loop, 93 Two Creeks, 194, 199, 201

INDEX

Uncle Bud’s Hut, 182 Uncompahgre River, 297, 300 Union Creek, 152 Up One from the Heart, 196 Upper Arkansas Valley, 228 Upper Michigan Ditch Trail, 48–49 Upper Michigan River, 48 Upper Sundance Loop, 199 Up with (Snowshoeing) People, 194 U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, 173 U.S. Forest Service, 3, 5 U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) maps, 20, 21 Ute Meadows Nordic Center, 208

V Vail Cross Country Center, 160 Vail Mountain, 160 Vail Mountain Uphill, 161 Vail Nature Center, 163 Vail Nordic Center, 163 Vail Pass Winter Recreation Area, 156 Vail Valley getting there, 155 map, 154 overview, 155 trails, 157–62 Vail, 156 Vail Pass, 151, 155, 156 Vail Village, 164 Valley Trail/River Trail Loop, 262 Vance’s Cabin, 182 Van Horn Park, 186 Vaquez Peak Wilderness, 248 Verena Mallory Park Trail, 186 Village Trail, 309 Vista Point, 251 Vista Verdee Nordic Center, 268

W Waldorf Mine Rd., 112–13 Waldrop, Harry, 81 Waldrop (CMC North) Trail, 81, 82 A Walk in the Park, 55 Walk Through Time Trail, 129 Walton Creek Loop, 275 Wapiti Nature Trail, 126 Ward Creek Trail, 295 Warren Gulch, 110 Warren Lakes, 188 Washington Gulch, 215, 217, 221 Water, 12 Waterdog Lakes Trail, 233 Webster Pass Rd., 137–38 West Bench Trail East, 293 West, 292 West Brush Creek Rd., 219 West Elk Wilderness Area, 210 Weston Pass Rd., 174 West St. Louis Creek, 249 West Summit Loop A, 273 Loop B, 274 West Summit Loop C. See South Summit Loop Wheeler Lakes Trail, 151–52 White River National Forest, 156, 186 White River Plateau, 205 White Rock Mountain, 217 Wichita Mountain, 144 Wild Basin, 66 Wild Basin Rd., 68 Wildcat Alley, 285 Wild Hare Snowshoe Race, 251 Wild Irish Mine, 136 Williams Peak, 204 Willow Creek Reservoir, 255

Y Yampa River Valley, 267 Yampatika Snowshoe Walks, 271 Yankee Doodle Lake, 93, 99

Z Zimmerman Lake Trail, 46–47 Zoom Trail, 248

Snowshoeing

U

Willow Creek Trail, 172 Willow Swamp, 302 Wilson Trail, 255 Windy Ridge Bristlecone Pine Scenic Area, 227 Winter Park and Granby getting there, 242 map, 240 overview, 241–42, 244, 252 trails, 243–65 Winter Park–Fraser Trail System, 247–48 Winter Park & Fraser Valley Trail Guide, 241 Winter Park Resort, 242, 250 Winterskol Buttermilk Uphill, 196 Winter Trails Day, 6, 55, 106 Winter Trails Weekend, 55 Wolcott, 155

COLORADO

349 Vista Verde Ranch, 276–77, 278 Vulcan Mountain, 232