Slovenia [2 ed.] 0864425384

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′ 9'9 Lonely Planet boOks provide independent advice.Accredited Loneiy Planet writers dc)notaccept discounts or paymentin exchange Forpositive coverage. Lonely Pianet kniige dalelo nepristransko n∝ 》 dvisna sPorodla,Poob!ぎ こeni pisci

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1

2nd Edition

配｀f〕話 くン

31ovenla ■

■

“

Steve Fa1lon

S:oveinia

2nd ed:tion Published by Lonely Planet Publcatiolい PO Box 617,Haw■ :om,Vic 3122,Australia Head oface: et,Oakland,CA 94607,USA Branches: 150 Linden St薫 〕 10a Spl■ 18 PlaCe,London Nヽ 75 3BH,UK 71 bis rue du C"d d lκ moine,75(X)5 Paris,France P‖ ntedl by

Colorcraft Ltd,Hong Kong

Photographs by Stcvc Fallon Aleζ Fcvzer Toino JesenlCnlk

Bogdan Kladnik Rcnata Picc」

DuSan Podgol■ lk

Pr(motion Cen"Lju"ana I)arnien Sinlonis

SIOVCnian■OunSt BOard(CPTS) Z darsic

J¨

Front cov∝ :Prediama Cぉ tic(Notranjska),Stuan Dee(■ le hiage Bank)

F:rst pub::shed October 1995 This Edltion Septenibcr 1998

OrmaiOn a3 A:though the author3 and pubilSher haVe tded tO inake the l:■ aCCurate aS p● 3Sible,they aCCOpt nO reSpOn3:b::■ y10r any:030,:nl● :γ Or inconvenienCe SuStained by any pen30n uSing■

1:S b00]“

N江 ion」 Library of Austrdia Cataloguing in PublicatonlData

F」 lon,Steve. SIovenia. 2nd ed. Includes index.

ISBN 0 8(鉾 425384. l Slovenia― Guidcbooks.2.Siovcnia-1)cscription and travcl.I..Title. 914.9704

xt&maps O Lonely Pianet1998 “ Phoms O photographers as indicated 1998 Blcd ald Koper cllintte charts compiled from infol■ lation supplied by Pa

ck J Ty`Ю n,◎ Patick J・ 取son,1998

All rights reseived.No palt of his pubLcaton may bc rcproduced,stored in a remeval systcm or transrmm( in any form by my means,el∝ ヒo c,m∝ hanic」 ,photocopy g,r∝ording or othcrwi",cК for the pulTЮ Se of"vielw,witlЮ utthe w ten pel■ lission ofthe publisherl四 ld copyllght ownen "t brief extmcts

Steve Fa‖ on Borilin Boston,Mass`じ husetts,SteveFdlon

lber a tirne when he was not Ob∞ssd witt mvel,Omer culmres and lan_ can't reine■

guages.As a teenager he wolked an assort‐

me■ ofjobs O■ ■ance mps b Euro"霞 d South Ame ca,and he gndu■ ed from Georgetown Universiり wih a B“ helor of Science in inodem languages.'「 hefollowing

ycar he taught English at me Univesiり Siesia near Katowicc,Poland.

of

After he had worked for several years for

aGannettnewspaperandobtainedanlaster's degteinjoumalism,hisfaЮ in on wi 血e

`new'Asiaわ ok him b Hong Kong,where he lived for 13 yeaぶ

,andworked on avanety ′ ss

of publications and was cdbr of B:"Й

Laた ′ ′ ′r magazme.h1987,heputjoumd‐ isin on hold when he opened Wamderlu飩 Books,Asia's only tavel bookshop.

StvelivedinBuda"stfor2%ycars fЮ m where he wЮ Lonely Plana's蘭 ′ ツ

“`gαin 」 a before=noving to London “ 1994.Hc `″ h:s wri■ en or co■lmbuted to a number ofodlcr Lonely Planet● ■es. and S′ ο ッ

Ad

From the Adhor lnぬ C`yCa10f■ em可 。 け',血 S Oneわ 。( two onc)is for Michacl Rothschild,お patient,understanding and loy」

S

.A star."v∝

A nulmbcr of peoplc assisted in the reSea∝ h and ting ofthis 2nd edidon of S′ ο ν θ ″″, and I'd like to say a hearば ielt `lЙ ″ α λッ α麟'ゎ theお 1lowing:■ ena ηι ′ぶ BeZ」 ak Of PtuJske Viedute,PtuJ;Andre」 Blatnik Of Cankariwa Zdoあ a,Liubjana; Tiき a Boヽ mik of tte Liubuma Rom。 ■on cent“ ;Jana

HOinik&饉 e Star atthe Park bd,Liubuana;AleS&Th■ a Hvdaof me Hvda hotel,Kobarid;Matei&Mija Kamn of ABC,Bmik Ai:"■ ;Rok V Klanё nik of the S10Venian Tou st Boな d,Ljubj`ma; Ma」 疵 Kos oftte Geo“ sic hstitute Of Slo‐

venia(GZS),町 ubuma;Ivma Leskovec of ぬe Cettno Mu"um;Anu`iqa Li“ n of me

Vila VikOri,a,Bled;Rcnata Mlakな of PlanStt StaraFu独 1■ TatianaRadovに oft“

巧ublma PЮ motion Cent“ ;t“ Ravbar fainily in Novo Mesto;Ivana Rizmal of

of

a´ Lirwavs.London:Aleksander luzllll

Ⅵdco Art,Cmome」 ;Miha Rott of■ e

G:overninent Public iRelations & Media

OfFice,Ljubuma;DmiloMkl∼ ЙSbFiZa,Of the AIDine Associa on of Slovenla rRZS). 巧ubljふ a;Jalk。 さにb● Of bmpお Lli_ days,Liublana;Dako Ⅵ ler of■ e ld ia

Museum;鑢 d01ga 2vmut of Slovedan Rdwり s(S2),Liu3jana. Finally a yeW Sp∝ id“ bowledgment Municip」

for C■ omir Soba for showing nle a dde Of

SIovenia cven I'd ncver seen before.″ッ α′ α

′α,z″ ″れ

Jι

J′

“

″

・

`=Sル

FЮ :n the publisher ・I:he coordinating editOr Of this book was

Craig MaclKenzie.He was assisted by Wendy Owen,Annc Mulvaney,Janet Auttin md Susannah Farfo■ Lyn“ ll Taylor md AnnJeffЮeprepa“ dthemaps,andAnn took meb。 。 k the rest of■ c way lrouま prOduC― 饉on.11lanks to Dan lし evin for、 veaving his

fontinagic.M:a℃ el Gaston,Mary Neighbour and Janc IIart cOnducted■ le anwOrk check.

Warning&Request

1lle cOver was designed by I)avid iKlenlp.

change,good places go bad and bad places go bankrupt― nothing stays the saine.So,if you find things better or worse, recendy opened or long sincc closed,please tell us and help makc the next edition even■ lore

Quentin Frayne edited the Language Cuide.

Thank3 Many thanks to tte tavellers who wЮ us wiф hlo“ nation and suggcstions:

te to

Things change ― pnces go up, schedules

accurate an(l useful.Julic lriOung coOrdinates

a small tcam who read and ackllowlcdge every lc“r,postcard and cmal,and cnsure

JaЮ slav Adamec,Taia Albolcna,Ivo Andrea,

Bergano Andreis,Stven Austennlller,Miaur∝ )n B」 1,vladislav Bevc,Paul Blazk。 ,Paul BOrsmiL Ann IBryant, Patrick Burke, Jean Cooke, M`ria

Dcmsar,Anne DcMuth,Christy Duijvelaat A

Edw"ds,ヽ ス cs Eichenwald,Derek Emson,Igor Fabjm,Simon Hewison,M″ k Hodr,Frmcis& Cathenie King,Kob″ id Museun,P Larkin,iMarc

Lynam,M"y McElhinney,Graham Owers,A Pcttegee,stepha

c P01utnlk,Candy P∞

n,Murmy

Rahn,Joalne Rebec,Gmhan Rhind,〕 Mlat S」 mon, JOhan Segers,Caiol Stuckey,E)SwalЮ y,Edward Syに s,D Thomas,Magda■ lurhet MIko Topns, Joan Uting, Lcon ■ nnys, Ron Wilson, Chnsine Wilson.

that inforination inds its way to mc apprO_ pnate auぬ Ors,editOrs ald publshers.Every‐ one who wntes to us wi1l ind their naine in the next editiOn ofthe appropnatc guide and will also receive a free subscnption to our quane」 y newslettcL P′ α″ 7b′た.The vexy `′

best cOntnbutions will bc rcwa・ ded with a free Lonely Planet guidc.

Exce■)tS from your conespondence inay appear in new editions of this guide;in our

newslettet P″″ ;orin updttes on our `r22此 ゝバ eb site― so ple`se let us know ifyou don't

want your lctter published or your name acknowledgcd.

｀ヴ

Contents :NTRODuC■ ON.“ ".".¨ ......“

.“ .“ ...".".""..".".“

".""“ ".."..“ .“ "."""“ ."..."..“

FACTS ABOuT THE COUNTRY.."“ “".¨ ..".“ Ⅲ ……..."...“

History… ………………… ……………….13 .¨

CLmate… ¨……………………………23 Ecology&Envromncnt… ………24 .¨

Flora&Fauna.¨ ¨¨¨¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨25 (】 overninent&〕 Polidcs ¨ ¨¨¨¨. 25 Econonly● ¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨ 27 Populaion&Pcoplc… ……¨…… 28 .¨

Geography&Geology¨ ¨¨ ¨¨22

FACTS FOR THE ViSIT10R.¨ ¨..........“ ."......“ Planning。 … …….¨ ¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨35 .・

Suggested ltincraries.¨ ¨ ¨¨¨¨¨.35 Highlights.¨ ¨ ¨.¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨…36 "¨ ¨

Tounst Ofac¨ ………………¨……36 Vis、

&D∝ umen“

………………¨38

E.nlbassles¨ ¨ ¨.¨ ¨¨.¨ .¨ ¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨.39 ustonis.¨ ¨ ¨¨……….."¨ ¨"¨ ¨¨¨40

(〕

MOncy.¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨ ¨¨¨.¨ ¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨.40 Post&Commumcatons.… ……43

B∞ 魅 ………………………………………44 0nlinc Sclvices… ………………… …46

Newspapers&Magazines.¨ ¨¨46 Radio&・ VI¨ ¨¨¨¨¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨47 「 Video Sysems.… ……………………47 .¨

Aョ ts .¨

.…

.“

..…

"...¨

PhOtOgraphy&Video .¨ ……… ……47 ■mC… …………¨………………………47 El∝ city… ………………… …………48 Weights&Measures¨ ……………48 Laundry¨ ¨¨ .¨ ¨¨ ¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨48 Health… ……………¨ ………………… 48 Toilets… … ¨¨¨………………………….49 VVlolmcn TraVellers… …… ………… 49 (〕 ay&Lesbian llravcllcrs.¨ ¨¨49 Disablcd Travdlers… ……… ……… 49 Senior Travcllers.¨ ¨ ¨ ¨¨¨¨¨.49 TraVel with Chldren… …………50 Student Travellers¨ ¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨50 Usefu1 0rganisadOns… ………… 50 .¨

.¨

.¨

"".11

"."“ “ “..."..."..“ .13 EkluCadon ¨ ¨¨¨¨ .¨ ¨ ¨¨.¨ ..¨ .¨ .¨ 29

..“ ....¨

¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨..¨ ¨¨¨"¨ ¨.29 ¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨.33 .¨ ¨ ..¨ ¨ ¨ .....¨ .¨ ¨¨34 .¨

1teligiOn."¨

.¨

LanguagC.¨

.¨

....“

“"......."..“

"."..........35

Dalgげ s&Annoyam∝ s.… ………51 ¨¨ ¨¨¨。 .¨ ...¨ 51

Lcgal Matters...¨

.¨

BuSineSSIHOurS… … …..¨ ¨…… .¨ ¨ 51 PuЫ ic Ho■ days& Special EVentS_¨ .¨ … ………¨.¨ .51

Acdvites¨ ¨...¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨ .。

....。

..¨

¨52

Language C10urscs¨ ¨ ¨¨¨¨¨..¨ .57 VVbrk¨ … …….¨ ¨¨……¨ .¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨57 Acconl● lodatiOn.....¨ ¨ ¨¨¨¨...¨ 57 F00d¨・ .¨ ¨ ¨¨¨¨ .....¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨..¨ 59 ..。

..。

1)linkS.¨

¨¨¨¨¨¨ ¨¨¨¨.¨ .¨ ......62 .¨

Entettmmcnに ………………………

SpeCtatOr SpOrt.¨ ¨ ¨¨¨_¨ ¨¨¨¨¨64

■llingS

tO Buy.…

“ …¨ ¨¨¨¨¨ ¨.65 .¨

.¨

GETT:NG THERE&バ IWAY・・ ・ ・¨“ ・ ・¨¨ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・¨ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・................".".“ ...."....."...… ".66 ・ ・ ・ ・“ ・

Ar.¨ ¨ ¨¨¨ …… ¨¨ .¨ ¨ ¨¨¨ ¨……66 Sea… ……… ¨¨ ¨¨ ¨¨ ¨ ¨ ¨¨¨ ¨ ¨¨72 Land… ……… …………… …………………67 DepaturC TaX¨ ¨…… ……… ……… 73 .…

.¨

.¨

.¨

■ranung¨ ¨ ¨¨¨ ¨¨¨¨ .73 "¨ ..¨ .¨ ¨ ..。

GETriNG AROUND¨・"¨・"¨ ¨ ・¨ ・".¨ "".“ .¨ ..¨ "¨ ““".… ".¨ .“ “.¨ ¨.....“ …….¨ .74 ・""・ "・ “ Ar… …¨…………………………………74 Ca&MOtOrycle¨ …………………77 Orgmised Tou、 79 Bus 74 Bicyclc ¨¨¨¨¨¨ … ¨¨………… …78 Addrcsses &Place Nancs… 79 .…

Train

LJUBLJANA¨

75

.“ .....… ..¨ .¨

HiSt07… ……………¨……………………80 0 entaion¨ ¨ …………¨¨¨¨………81 1nfOr■ latiOn¨ ¨ ....¨ ¨ ……¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨.83

lhings tO Sce.

86

Acdvitles¨ ¨ ¨¨

99

…

.¨

Hitching ¨¨ ¨¨."¨ ¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨78

“¨..¨ ..… ¨.".".¨ ¨¨..¨ .… ..… …....“ ..¨ ..“ ..“ “..¨ ..".“ ..¨ .… ..80 Orgmisd Ъ ws… ………………… 99 SpXtatOr SpOrt… ………………….108 SPccial Evcnts… … …………¨…¨… 99 Places to Stay…

...¨

¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨. 1()0

Haces Ю Eat 102 EntCnainmem¨ ……………………….106

1lingS tO Buy¨ ¨ ¨..¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨...108 (lcttlng lllerc&Away...。 ,¨ ¨ ¨109

Getdng Around.… ………………… 110 ArOund ttubljana¨ … …………… 112

GORENJSKA.."....".… ………….“ ..“ ..".""¨ “……….¨ ..“ ……":.“ .¨ ¨."...“ "....."".."。 113 “ “

Kanmk… …………………………¨¨113 Kranj… ………………………………124 Around BLd… ………¨¨………¨.144 ヽ Llika Planina¨ .…

¨ ¨¨¨ ¨¨¨ "¨ ¨ …118 .119 …………… Sko3a LOka¨ ¨ ¨¨¨¨ ¨ ¨.… …¨…119 Around Skola Loka.¨ ¨ ¨¨ ¨¨¨124 Kalaniζ ka Bistica.…

.¨

Around Kimり ¨ ¨ ¨¨ .¨ ¨ ¨¨ ¨. 129 BohinJ¨ ¨¨ ¨¨¨ ¨ .¨ ¨ ¨¨¨ ¨¨.… 145 RadOVliiCa.… ……… ……………… 130 Kraniska Gom… …………………… 153 .¨

.¨

Kropa.¨ ¨ ¨¨ ¨¨ ¨ ¨¨¨ ¨.¨ ¨ ¨¨¨ ¨.134 TIHglav Nadonal Park¨ ¨¨…… .. 158 Bled¨ ¨ ¨ ¨¨ ¨¨ .¨ .… ¨¨¨ .¨ ¨ ¨¨¨135 …

PRIMORSKA・ ・¨“ ・…¨"“ ““…… ・“ ・““ ・ ・¨ ・“…… ・ ・"¨・ ・“ ・“ ・¨"¨

The SOCa Va::ey...............162

BOVCC¨ ¨ ……………………………163 R[Obarid¨ … ………¨.¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨.¨ ¨167 Nova GOnca¨ ¨¨……………………170 Around Nova Gonca¨ …………… 173 Centra:PrirnOrSka..........174 1d ja.¨ ¨ ¨¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨.¨ .174

Cerkno.… ….… ………… …¨…………… 179

ドarst Reg:on...................182 SkOC」 an Caves_… …… ……………… 183 Liplca… … …………………¨………¨¨… 186 HraStOVlje¨ ………… ……………… 188

The Coast........................190

Koper¨ ¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨.¨

_190

““¨¨¨..“ ¨¨¨"“ ..¨ ¨.."..162

Ankaran¨ ¨ ..¨ ¨¨¨¨....¨ ¨¨.196 1ZOla¨ ¨ ¨¨¨...¨ ¨¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨.197 Around lzOla… … ¨¨¨¨.¨ ¨.¨ .¨ ¨.2(X〕 Piran¨ ¨ ¨¨ ¨¨¨¨¨ .… ……………201 POnOrO鯰 ¨¨¨¨ .¨ ¨ ¨¨…………….¨ ¨206 A工 Ound PO■ OrO乏 ¨ ¨¨.¨ ..¨ ¨¨¨.212 .¨

.¨

.¨

.¨

.。

213

NOTRANJSKA 213

PostoJna.

Pre"ama castlc

Ccrknica

22o sncLnik castle

…

. 219

226

DOLENJSKA Ribnica

230

na

BOgenζ

otOё

235

cc

245

…

A10und otOё cc

240

262

もTIAJERSKA........¨ KozJansko RcgiOn ROgaζ ka slatina

.¨ ...................…

PtuJ ……

KOROSKA..…

. … 282

.......¨

s10vc"cradcc

PREKMURJE......¨

Ccljc

….¨ .....… .… …..… ….....¨ 306 Dravograd

.… .....… .¨ …… .....… .¨ ..… ......…

Aroundヽ

.… ..…

310

.…

313 MOravskc TOplicc

Around Murska SObOta . . 317

_

248

251

……

252

KOlpa Rivcr Vallcy

…………

264

.. 299

・ ・ ・……・…・305 ・¨¨…・………・ … ¨ .・

Around I)ravograd

.

320

319

322

ALTERNATiVE PLACE NAMES LANGUAGE GU:DE..… GLOSSARY.....… 1NDEX....¨ Maps.

311

… ...............… …...¨ ......… …… ...313

318 Radcnci .

40ravskc Toplicc

....266

. 299

289 uppcr savinJa Vallcy 291 293

...… ..…

Miurska Sobota

PosavJe RegiOn

283 ArOund Ccljc

Aroundヽ4anbor Ccntral Pohor」 c Rcgion

274

.

.................… ..........¨ ..............¨ .............¨

Manbor

266 271

Kosta"cvica na Kr PletcrJc MOnasteッ

247

264

Around

261

さmttJeζ kc TOplice

….247

257

Mctlika… … Aroundヽ 4ctlika

Around Ptu〕

240

Novo Mcst0

234

ley

237

Around I)olcnJSkC TOpliCC

231

pcrk castlc

Krka tvcr Ⅷ

DOlc"ske TOplicc

226

Around Ribnica stiё

224

….¨ .… ..… ………...… ………………¨...… .… ………………….… .".… ….323

..................¨ .........................…

.........… ..¨ .....… .................¨

....329

............… ..… ...................¨ ...........… ................… ......… ............… .¨ ..¨

331

lcxt ■

…

.331

331

BOXED ASiDES Padarchate ofAquilcia… …………… ….二 …….… ….13 Francc Prttren:A Po● tforthe N五 O● ..¨ .… ……32 Tho Almighty Tolar… …… ……………..… ………………41 Slovenian Ski Reso■ s… ……… …………………….… .53

ArT■ vOl(■ oss町 …………………………………………68

T詭 巧ubijanathmglo.… …… ………¨ ………………83 JoZc Pleё

nik,Archit∝ t

Extraordinalre.¨ … ………¨……… ….… .… …….¨ .93 132 The Bolば ds & the Bees 139 ZlaЮ rog & s Golden Homs 144 Cluinbing Mt Tiglav iom POttuka

Clunbing Mt 01d Mr

145 149

Soё a(Iso■ zo)Flront.¨

¨¨¨.¨ ¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨.¨ .........168

0n由 ●恥 gs ofMoculγ ……¨¨……… ¨.… …_.175 .¨

■.∴ ■180 Sto“ A● ●M¨ ic… ……………………………… Dancing Hlorscs ofLipta.… .… ………… … :.I=1:1187 Sat ofぬ cS“ .… …Ⅲ ………..,… …Ⅲ……■_● :鳥 ■.211 Roし us A■ Ruintl:伍OH●●Иn Pish`"¨ ¨‐ 217 ……,“ ● Big Men lor Big■ mes… ………… ………...¨ 二222 ￨.■ Underthc Ll おes¨ …………………… ….… .… 231 .・

ヽ 4=lvasor,SIov`hia's "■

Renlussance

MaL..… …………………………………………………234

H」 Isぬ t cultu・ c h sIovema… … .… … …………… Mittra&tl"G"at Sac ice¨ ……………¨ ………… Kurent:Camiv」 ¶u"in Ptuj… ………… TIE Hayrack:ANaせ onal lcon

157 ne Fa

.

ous ofPrC■ 可 ●

Map Legend AREA FEATURES

BOUNDAR:ES :ntematO■ l Boundaリ +・ =‐

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HYDROGRAPHiC FEATυ RES

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Map index

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５０■鬱望 ３ ●２６●ヽ ド●６ ３ ヽ〓 こ ●ヨむ ■ ●〓 ０ ヽ■ 〓 電黒 ●ミ■Ｌ ２●２ ０

ヽ● へ ご Ｓ ８ Ｌｏヽ０ヽ● ミ・ ■ｌ ｏあ

ヽ 一卜 く ０ ‘ ０

_ / 1'

ノ

introduction It's a tlny place―

there's no dispuing that

faCt― With a surf∝ e

But therc are several ilnportant tl

aeaofjustover20,Ⅸ Ю

sq km ald Lssthan two m■ 1lon peOple.But `good things come in sma■ packages',and never w銀 ,that old chestnutinOre apprOp ate than in de∝ b g S10Venia(S10VenijO,an

ngs tO

know about Slovenia,points that ale Oten nusunderstood or overiOoked. Fi:st,■ lis is SIovenia not S10vakia.The latter declared itself independent ionl its

erStWhile siblng,■ le Cz(κ ‐ h Republic,in Januaり ′1993 and has stagnated ever sincc under the strong‐ arin gOvernnlent of a

independent republic bOrdering ltaly, Austria,Hungay and Croatia. SIoveniahasbeendubbeda10tOfdillierent thingS by itS prOFnOterS ― `Europe in

fornler tx)xe■

Second,Sloveniais notpatOftheBalkans ― geogmp c」 ly(the Kolpa River is the bOrd∝ ),iSЮ C」 ly Or pSyChO10giC」 ly―

Miniature',`The Sunny Sidc of the Alps', `The Creen Plece of Europe'一 and they're all true. Slovenia has everything, fronl

and no more reselllbles the na● ons of that adidOnally volatile legion■ lan do Austna,

beaches, snowcapped inountains, hills

t・

awash in grape vines and wide pl〔 uns blan―

Hungary or ltdI Th,oughout their histoly, the Slovenian people have had ve● i Close Cultural and economlc ties with Europe and have been in■ uenced rnuch inore fionl the

kcted in sunaowers to Gothic churchcs, baroque palaces and Art Nouveau civic bulldings.Its incredible inixture Of c■ inates b ngs wann Mediten・anel田 l brα じ zes up to the

we■ thal the eぉ t or south.Ths may seem

foothills of the Alps,whel℃ it can snow in suinlner And with more than halfOfits total anea covered in forest,Slovenia really is one

odd when you take a c10se 100k at a map of the country. If you inlagine thc city of Muお kaSObOtatObe an tye',t“ J an Alps

ofthe`greenest'cOuntics in the worid.

and the nolth‐ 1″ est tO bc a clunlp of `tall

11

12 1ntroduction

feathers'and Bela Kr“ ina and southem Primorska b be`feet',you'1l sce wh■ looks like a chicken scurying e`stwad.In fact, SIovenia is heading in the opposite din訊

3tion

_and fast_in these la,t years of the 20th century.

■llird,Slovenia has lalways been a very s“eメ ∝ e to li“ and Ю visit.Exccptお r10

dり S

in late Juneメ early

YugOslttia ammpted child lヽ rom

July 1991 when rump itt sm」 lest Ю preve

leaving its decayed and collaps‐

ing IIouse of lJsher,ther)was no fu■

her

aghting,war Or t“ Onsm here and met is

none now. While Croatia and Bosnia‐ IIcrcegovina becarne einbroiled in the bitterest connict in Europe since WWⅡ Sloveniagoton will whttith`Б

v“ tma,o,,-88%n麟

―ず 撻

aCCOrding tO P13n ginCe then, and tLc

.ctmg ofdm口 '饉 Pttmm:Mum 1“ er● こ Kulm 8pok。 3but o:d戯 “

enCe]D8y in'u■ ●19'l bru18bi“a・ “ new day・

an¨ uSu■ 8hamS md dndg“ ●3. 3鰤 't四 綱 鯰:1腱 CV呻 ‐

No,Slove

W110● ith8 8d iむ own“ o屁 of roble!霊 網 d m哺 .ButW輌 I“ -3mthey'Ve ∞ nim“ th“ rm腱 a“ d no"h md not 曲● ― r"は c」 Oilg a COPy Of I｀ "01'8 :.YOu “ ィ 口お ル 7 MO′ 0出,お こ レ `′ '31″ ￨. tPЮ t u鉾 祀verhowlitliュ “

,

dwaysdone

best: working hard, canling money and making progrcss. In a very short timte,Slovenia ha,gone ■Om being a″ αlリ グ(na」 On Of「 ,Ople)Wi血 no p。 litical foundation to a fully nedged e πασりα(natiOn‐ Sttte),そ md that'SjuStWhat

Ple

∝ in wan"dwhendEyvO∞ d“ depende■ "。 =』 DαEmur l努 Ю.Not eveV● hg h=s30■

晨o“ ℃ 、u闊 嘔 m証 ■ 恥 。1。 鴫 Ⅲ ▼Ⅲ 餞 饉 出 Ⅲ Ⅲ “ .=b●■ ‐ W麟 :o.● r● 耐■ = No w“.● o血 i彙 1山 ,11[コ 」じ,w`y; ヽわoo■ 8"崚 “ ヽ 』 鰤 [“ 恥“ ,1』 颯 but面 」 断廊 L・ … 4""r"F腱 僣 Fnnoi n● ●■oO‐ 4]〕 “ ■ “ .

Facts aboutthe Country HISTORY

Around 700 BC the巧 ubljana Marsh

Ear:y inhabitants T｀

he arca of prcscnt― day SIovenia and its

il■ 11■

cdiate bOrdcrs has bccn settlcd since thc

Palacolithic Age.′ 1lools inade of bonc and

dating baClk tO bctWccn 100,000 and 60,000

BC haVC bCCn diSCOVered in a cavc at Mt (:)lSeva, north Of Solё

forts andreachcd theircconol■ lic and cultural

peak bctween 650 and 550:BC〕 dunng what Od.Priceless

ava in the Upper

is now c」 lcd thc IIdlstatt pc

SavinJa Valley. In 1995 one of the rnost important archacO10gical finds frorn the Stonc Age Was madein acavc at Di巧 c Babe ncar([】 crknica

Pcople werc overwhelined by nlynan tribes from thc south who brought with them iron tO。 ls and wcapons. They settlcd largcly in Oday's province ofDolettska,built hlll― top

OtteCtS like iЮ n

In about 400 BC,Celtic tribes frOm

in PrinlOrskal a prilllitivc bOne

flute dating back some 35,000 ycars.

now considered to be thc

■ is ゃ vorld's 01dest

knOWn muSiC」 inStrument(SCC boXCdに

F'rance,(Ilernlany and thc Czech lands bcgan

pushing southward towards thc Balkans. ■'hcy lnixed with the local pOpulation and

Xt

cntitled Stone Agc Music, ln the Ccrkno.

established the irst`state'On Slovcnian sO 山e No c kingdom.

SeCtiOn Ofthe Prun.OrSka Chapter).

Dunng the Bronzc Age(aound 2∝

helmetS,goldjewclle,and

CrnbOSSed pailS(SJ″ 滋 ιりhaVe been found in ЮmbS nCar Sdё na and at Vaё e nc″ Litija.

,

Ю to

900 BC),maSh dWellerS fanled ald ralsed

The Ro:Tlans

cttuc in the area south of pκ sent_day ttub―

ln 181 BC,the Romans cstablished thc

増ana C」 lCd the ttublanSkO BttC md at

colony ofAquileia(Oglelin Slovcnc)on thc

Lake Ccrknica.Thcy lived in rOund huts sct

(:】

on silts and tradcd with other pcOples along

ulf ofTiicste in Order to protectthe enlpire

b滅 lnCurSiOnS(See bOXed“ xt end―

called Anlber Route linking the BalkanS With ltaly and northcrn Europe. the SO―

tled "Om tPatiachate of Aquileia). AInong its visitors would be Julius Caesar hmself,fOr Whom the Julian Alps are narncd.In the 2nd decadc AI),the Ronlans anncxed the Celtic

Finds dating from this pcriOd`rc extensive and include daggers,hatchcts,pots and hocs.

13

14 Facts aboutthe Country― Histolγ

No

c kingdoin and moved into thc rest of

rcgion:(Carniola,Styna,(Carinthia.It wasn't

Slovenia and lstlla.

until the late 18th century during a period of

The Roinans divided the area into the prOvinces of Noricum (tOdav's southern

national consciouSneSS that the nanlc

Austria,Koroこ ka ald westcrn StaJerska),

corninon use.

lUDOer and Lower Pannonia(CaStern

Stajcrska, Doleniska and much Of Gorenjska)andHistria(PrimOrskamdCЮ ″ tim ls a)and built roads connccung their ncw mllitary settlements.From thcse bases developed the impO■ ant tOwns of Emona (Ljubtala),Celcia(Celje),PoeЮ ViO(Ptuj)

SIoveni or Slovenci(SIOVenianS)Came intO In their original hornclands―

bOrdcred by

the Baltic Sea to the nOrth,the Calpathians tO the sOuth,thc(:)dcr Rivcr to thc east and the Dnieper to the west― thesc Sclavi wcre a peaceful peoplc,living in forcsts Or along rivcrs and lakes,brecding cattlc and farl■ ling ´ by slash― and― burn incthods. 「 hey were a

νj姥 (bOth goOd es or spntes)eve,w“ re mdpad

and virunum(near Klagenfun in Austria),

supcrstitious people who saW

which had a forum,sophisticated f。 ■inca_ tions,housing,baths,gyrnnasiurns,tenlples Stian ChaFЮ ls.Many reminders and later Ch

and bad f

of the Rornan presence can still be Seen in

of storrns,lightning and thunder;vales,thc prOtector Of ca■ lo. As a social group they

可 ubtana,RuJ,Celje and Sempeter.

The Creat Migrations ln the nllddle of the 5th century AD,the

Huns, led by Attila, invaded ltaly via Slovcnia, attacking iPoctovio, Cclcia and EmOna」 Ong the way.Aquileia tll Ю the Huns in 452,but A■ 1la's einpre was shO■ ‐ lived and was sOOn eclipsedby the Gennanic

(:)strogoths. In their wake camc the LangobadS,anOther Gennanic tribe that had also occupied rnuch Slovenian terntory.In 568 thc Langobards Struck out for ltaly, taking Aquileia and evcntually conquering the Venetial maniand.

hornage to a pantheon ofgods and goddesses:

Svarog,thc crcator of light;Pcrun,the god

malc nO class dsincuOns,wichヽ

whylЮ mc

historians believc they neVCr succceded in estaiblishing a kingdorn. But a leader―

The docilenature ofthescpeople chalgcd, howcver,dunng the nligratory pc ods,and they becaine more war like and aggressive.

The Duchy of Carantania When the Avais failed in their bid to takc Byzanduin in 626,thc Alpinc Slavs unitcd under thett lcder Ⅷ uk and jOined forces

The Early SiaV3 「 he ancestors of today's ISlovenes arrivcd I｀

frOnlthe carpathian Basin in the 6th century and scttled in thc sava,1)rava and Muranver v」 leys and hc eastcm Alps.Undcr pκ ssure

■Om the Avas,a pOwerullMlongol pcople b」 」halce, with whom they had formcd a the carly slavs then inigrated fanher westto the Friu an plain and thc Adriatc Sea,north tO thc sOurces Ofthe I)rava and Mura nvers and east as farぉ LよeB譴 江On in Hunga呼

In thc cnd they occupied atotd land aca of about 70,CЮ O sq km and nuinbered about 200,0(Ю pcople.

At血 江ime hese p∝ )ple

weE ca■ ed Sclavi

Or sclaveni,as were nlost Siavs.:Later thcse `proto‐ Slovenes'wouldbe

idendiedby their

a

を′αれ(nOW`mayOr')Orツ ο リツο′α(duke)一 “ sclected in imes of gκ at dange■ wぉ

The coat of arrns ofthe Duchy of Carantania, the first slavic state

FaCtS abOutthe COuntry― History 15 with thc Frankish chief Salno to nghtthcnl. The Slavic tribal union becarne the l)uchy Of

CTantania(Kaantanija)with its seat=Krn Castle(now Karnburg in Austria).Car―

SOuth― eaSt frOm Styria (StaJerSka)to the Mura, I)rava and I)anube rivers. It was to Lowcr Pannonia thatthe Macedonian brOth― ers Cyrll and Methodius,the`apOstlcs ofthe

antania was the arst slavic state,and its bordcrs extendcd froin thc valley Ofthc Sava Rivcr as far as I」 eipzig,including Moravia, Bohcinia and Lower Austia.

southcnl SIavs',had irst brought thc talns‐

By he e"ly 8山 cenm,,a new class of

lations of the Scrlpturcs to the Slovcnes

emobld comnones rbs′ z〃 hd eme嘔

,

ald it wぉ 血ey who pub■ cly el∝ tcd and “

CЮ Wnedぬe

inthim prince named Kocclj esttblishcd an

independent S10Vcnian`kingdorn'(869-74) in Lower Pannonia, the area stretching

neWレ￨“ (grmd duke)On tte

(863).And it was he,c that cals for a Slavic Furchdiocese were irst heard.

`duke'SrOCk'`た ア :``ピ 励

Magyarinvasion&German Ascendancy

Kl■

Thc Carinthian kingdoln was notto last10ng.

″,in the COu■ yardOf Casuc.Such a democradc pr∝ css wぉ uluque m tte tuddEuЮ lχ ofhecalyMidde Ages,ald it is belicved to have mnucncc ■1lornas Je壼ierson in the for■ lation oflis con― tactualtheoly and thc wnting ofthe AIne can Declaadon of hdcPen“ ncc h 1775-76.

In about 900,the fearsomc Magyars,expcrt

VddmdSttug“ d the SIovenian regions of Lower Pannonia hOrSemen md¨ heS,

and along thc Sava,cutting thenl off frO」

n

Cannthia.Thcy llntended to go farther but

were defeated by Gerinall and Slovcnian

ExPansion ofthe Franks

forces undcr Кling()tto l at Augsburg in 955.

ln 748 thc F'rankish enlpire of thc Car‐ olmgians incorporatcdCarantaniaぉ a vass」 state called (こ 〕 arinthia and attemptcd to

hc Germans decidcd to re― establish Cannthia,dividing the aica into a halidozcn bordcr counties or ini籠 ℃hes. By the carly 'I｀

convert the population to Christianity.

llth century,these would develop into the

Because ofthis foreign dOnunation,the ncw religion was Кsisted tt irst.But■ ish monks

Slovenian provincesthat wOuld renlain basi―

cally unchanged until 1918: Carniola

undcr the auspices of thc Diocese of Salz‐ burg in the latc 8th ccntury inadc usc ofthe

(Kraniska),Carinthia(KoroSka), Styria (Stterska),Gorica(Goぶ ka)andthe Witc

vernacular and l″ ere rnorc successful.

March(Bela lKraJina).

By he Carly 9th Cenmヮ ,re 」OuS au山 。 ty on SIovenian terntory was shared betwcen SalZburg and the Patri`rchate of Aquileia

Slovenian lands began in the 10th century.

(the Drava River cmaned the border undl

Ad

ve forcomplct Germalis

on ofthe

Land was divided between the nobility and Vそ ШouS ChurCh diOCeSeS(BriXen,SalZburg

the 18th century)so mat no l∝ d ccclesiぉ ‐ tiCa Centre Could deVelop on iS own.Atthc Sanle tine,the we`よ ening Fmn sh auぬ 。 des КplaCed thc SIoVenian nobles with Gennそ m

nobles and adininistratOrs, the territory rerllained cssentially Slovene. That these

counts to help rctaln what litde power they had lc■ .They werc absorbed intO the new

pcople werc able to prcscrve their identity through Gennal ald later Austrian rulc was

systent while the local peasantry was reduced to serfdom.The German nobility Wasthus atthc tOp Ofthe feud」 hierarchy lor thc irst ime in S10veniam■ ands.′ 1lis would

and Freising),and Gcrinan gentry were settlcd on it. 13ut except 10r the forcign

due largely to intensive educational work conducted by the clergy. Most ofSlovcnia's iinpOrtant castlcs were

bunt between lthe 10th and 13th centunes,

later becorne Onc Of the key obstacles tO

and many chisuan monasteries(eg stiё na

Slovenlan na■ Onal and culilral dcveloprnent.

md Kostanjevica)wα e established.Towns also deve10ped as administtative,trade and

Prince KOCeil&the Carinthian Kingdoin

social centres.Eventually landowners,

VVith the tota collapse of the Frankish state in the sccond half Of thc 9tll century,aC′ r_

traders, incrchants, artisans and manual Workers would ind their way to thcm.

16 Facts aboutthe Country-llistory Attacks by the(Dttornan T'urks on south―

Early Habsburg Rule

mona℃ hy(known as the Habsburg Empire iom 1804)held

The Austro― German

cOntrol over SIoVcnian tcnritory froin the early 14th ccntury until the end of Wヽ VI.It

dorninated the local population in cvcry

sense, stifled national aspirations and stunted P。 litical and cultur`」 developrnent.

In the early Middle Ages,the IIabsburgs were Just One of many Gernlan aistocratic farnilies strugglingう or hcgcinony on Slo‐ venian sOil.()thers, such as the Andcchs, Spttheims md ZOnekS(later the COun“ Of CeliC),WerC Cqu」 ly pOWCrful at V征 10uS

castern EurOpe began in 1408 and condnued

for morc than two and a half ccnturies, almost reaching ヽ/ienna on several occa― siOns. By the start of the 16th century, thOusands of Slovenes had been k■ led or

taken prisoner. The assaults helped to radicalise the ipeasants and landless iabourers who were requircd to raiSe their own defences α″acOntinuetO pay tribute and wOrk fOrther feudd lords.Atthe sametime,

the population was growing and Smdlfams

Bet、 ′ een the late 13th and early 16th cen― tunes,」 most」 i the lands mhabited by the Slovenes passed into IIabsburg hands with

were being divided up even funher. In inOst ofthe uprisings,peasant`unlons' demallded a reduction in feudal paylnents, the del口 locratic clecdon ofpansh pnests and, in atleast one case,the fornlation ofapeasant state underdirectcontrol ofthe ernpero■ The three rnost violcnt upnsings took place in

thc cxceptiOn Oflstna and thcLittoral,which were cOntr。 lled by venicc until 1797,and

alnlost the entire Slovenian terntory;and in

tiines.:But as dynasies interinanlied or died out,the Habsburgs consolidated their power.

Prekmu]C,Which bclongedto the Hungarian

1478 in KOroSka; in 1515, cnconlpassing

1573,when Ambroを `Matija'Gubec led

crown. Most of iKiraniska, I(oroこ ka and

some 12,000 Slovenian and Croatian peas‐

western StaJerska were united undcr the

ants in revolt.casues wcre occupicd and

Habsburgs by the iniddle ofthc 14th century,

pulled down and lords executed.Butnonc Of

und Ce」 c,Gonca md Pans and thc meaな 。

OfPrckmurjeお 110wd in thc 15th md 16th

thc revolts succeeded. ・I'he Protcstant Reforrnation lll Slovenia

centuncs.llntilthc 17thcentury rule was not

was closely associ■ ed with the nobility from

di“ ctly imposed but administered by diets

(paliamentS)。 f`reSidCnt prhCeS',prelaに

S,

nd」 .ds ald cPttn vesfbm搬 owns, l。

1540 onward and was generally ignored by the lrllral population except for those、 vho

lived or worked on lands owned by the

whO dealt with maters such as taxation. By this tlmc slovenian tcrritory tOtalcd about 24,000 sq kln,about 15%la・ ger than

church(■ ough ofIく iub」 ala's5∝ Ю residents in 1570,two― thirds wcrc Protestant).'Thc

its present sizc.Notonly did moに Owns and boroughs receive charters and nghts,but the country began to develop econorrucally with

be undcrestimated.Though only l%of thc

the opcning ofirOnWOrkS(eg atI(rOpa)and mincs(Idrija).And as economic progress n3duced the drferences an.Ong■ e repressed pcぉ a■ s,mey umted agalnst helr tud」

10rds.

effccts ofthis greatrelornl movennentcannot current pOpulatiOn is Protestant,the Refor‐ mation gave Slovenia its irst books in the vernacular― sorne 50 in all.Not only did this raise the educationallevel of Slovenes,butit asO li■ed the stttus Ofthe language it"11山 e flrst κd affirmation of Slovenian culturc.

peasant uprisings&the Reformation

Counte卜 Reformlation&PrOgress

More than 100 peasant uprisings and revolts occurTed between 1358(at Stiё na)and 1848

Thc wcdthy middle class had lostintrestin the Refonnation by the tilne it peaked in the

(at lg),butthey reached ther peak between

1580s because of the widening econonuc

1478 and 1573.′ ]ogether with the Protcstant

gap between tha class and the nobility.They turncd to the Catholic resident pnnces who

RefOrrrlatiOn at thc cnd of the 16tll century,

they arc considered a watershed of the Slovcnian national awakcning.

quashed Pro“ stantisin ainong the pct霞 ,ants through Кligious cominissions and tnals and

ЮGD川 趾ADNIK

STEVE FALLON

STEVE FALLON

STⅣ EFA■ ON

STEVE FAu.ON

A B C D E

A: Bringing in the sheaves,

Do!eniska

B:Doublelinked hayrack(bplar) C:Linden tree

D:■ oplar with corn and hay drying on irs side racks

E:Corn hanging。 曖 O dry on a toplar

AuSTR:A

・¨

問i招fl. /く

a

′ ・ ′

n k^

… 、計

4

P

■ 1響 ⅢⅢ

S

a

譜1麓

ka

● Cgkle na ▲α

響

:,▲ Loka Ble8●

L。

lUBLJANA 1湿

Sempeto「

′

℃

t e Kofren

(°

'ade2)

4r)RInTIで

(,"r・′

‐ SF,1 ・

｀

・     ・     ● 一     一 ︲    一 ・

CROA':A.‐ IS‐

TR.IA

R眸 h (Reka)

― ‐

朧 ・

ヽ.タ

●szentl●ttham ‐ (Mo`Ю まeつ

HUNGA

． ﹃●

﹄

t嶽 。

.

F…

et彎

● Breま 轟 哺 Mima o・

●Mlkroぃ oO I

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Slovenia

・(S“ Ve,ijo)

￨・

`吉

Mima ′ ‐■3

ELEl′■■′ 0″

RY

ALに

D馴 IEN

もFEVZER

臥 MIEN SIЮ NIS

A B C D

E

G

A: Paragliding,Gorettska B: StOrkS nesting near Bogolina C:1 7th century Francisx,an Church PreSernov trg,Liubliana

SIMONIS

Ю∞ 加IDA認

lё

D:Shopping,central market,Llubliana E:Herbs,central market,Liubliana

F:Kayaking,Sava River,Goreniska !ps G:Z!atorog descendantS,Julianノ ヽ

Facts aboutthc Country― History 17 banishcd noble fami■ es or individu」 s who

the Habsburg Empire off from thc Adriaic.

pcrsisted in the new belici

TO dO this he created six`■ lynan Provinces'

After almost a century of Habsburg decline brought on by the losses of thc Countc← Reformaion and thc Thirw Ycars' War(1618-48)to galn control of Gerinanル econolnic linproveincnts began in the early

18th centu,and EmpК ss Maia Theresa (1740-80)introduced a SerieS Of refonns. ′

1lesc includcd the cstablishrncnt of a ncw stac adininistraton with a type ofprovinci」 government,the abolition of custorns duties betwecn provinces of the ernpire,the build― I｀

ing of new roads, and tllc introduction of ObligaOry clemenね w schoolin Gerinal and state― controlled

sccondary schools.Her son,

Joseph II(1780-90), went several steps

from Slovenian and Croatian regions, hcluding Koroこ ka,IKranjska,Gonca,Istria and T cste,and mmc LJubljma■ e capit」 ThOugh thc lllynan Provinces lasted only

.

from 1809 to 1813, F.rance instituted a nunlber of reforms, including equality before the law and the use of Slovene in p●Inary and lower secondary schools and in

public offices, and ga■ ned the support of ce■ ain Slovenian intellectuals, including

Vodnik.Mostiinportandy,the nlynal Prov― inces and the progressivc iniuence of the

French Revolution brought the issuc of national awakening to the slovcnian p。

1lu_

cd arena forthe irsttime.

further. Hc abOlished scrfdorn ill 1782,

paving the way for the forination Of a

Ro:Tlantic Nationansm(&the 1 848 Revolution

Slovenian bourgeoisic, and allowed com― pletc religious freedorn to (〕 alvinists, Lutherans and Jews.IIc also dissolved the

Austnan nie,restOred in 1814,was now

all_powcrnul(and onen corupt)catholic

Metternich.Heim■ ledittely

religious orders.

Austnan tudalsystem and atternptd to sup―

′ hOugh Joseph IIrescinded inany ofthese refOnnS(inCluding the emanCip■ iOn Of the I・

guided by theiron ist ofPrincc C:lerllens von reinstituted the

press every national lnoveinent from the time Ofthe COngress ofVienna(1815)to the

peaSantry)On hiS death bed,they had a maJOr

Rcvolution of 1848. 13ut the process of

effect On the econorny.Agncultural output improved, ■lanufacturing intensified and

chalgc in the wake of mdustrial rcvolution

shipping fronl Austria's rnaln port at Triestc

Slovenes too.It could no longcr bc stopped.

incrcased substantially.The reforms also

produced a■ owenng of the arts and letters

The period of lRomantic Iヽ lationalism (1814-48)in Slovenia was one ofintcnsivc

in Slovenia,with tlle playwright and histo―

literary and cultural activity and setthe stage

nan AntOn Tomaを Linhall and the poet ald

fOr the promulgation of the irst Slovcnian political prOgraln.Though many inΠ uential wntcs published at ths tinlc(M■ ija Cop,

JOumalist Vdenin Vodnik producing ther inest andlnostiniucntial works atthis tiine.

had startcd in Europc and alnong the

The irst newspaperin Slovene― L“ ♭Jα れs々ι A4ο ν :zι _was launched by lVlodnik in 1797.

Bishop Anton Martin SlomSek,AndreJ

Napoleon&the lliyrian Provinces

′ he F.rench Revoludon of 1789 convinced

entitlcd Francc Preも eren: A Poct for the Nadon).His bitter‐ swcct verse,proglに ssive

the Austlian rulers thatthc refornl nlovenlcnt

ideas,deinands for poliic」

should be nipped in the bud,and a period of reactiOn began thatcontinued untilthe Revo‐ lu■ on of 1848.In the ineantiine there was a bnefinterludc_almOst a fcЮ mOte in histOry― that would havc a profound effcct on Slov― enia and the futurc ofthc Slovcnian nation.

longings forthe unity of all Slovenes caught the ilnagination of the nation then,and to an extent have never letit go. I)espite this, the revolution that swept lE.urope in early 1848 found Slovenia polid‐ cally weak and rcladvely unplに pa.ed.But it

Following hs detat of the Austrians江 Wagrain in 1809,Napoleon decidcd to cut

did bnng tto positvc rcsults.First,it did away with absoluism and fl∝ d hcpe6aty

SmolC),nO One SO dOnllnatCd the periOd aS

thc poet Francc PrcScren(see boxed text I・

fl℃

edom and

18 Facts aboutthe Country― History

frorll its remaining feudal obligations

different beliefS rallied)greW politiCal

(thOugh at a priCe ― litCrally). SeCOnd, it

movements.Parties irst appeared towa,d

provided intellcctuals with the(oppolltunity

thc cnd ofthc 19血 century,with thc Cleric」

to launch ther irst nationd pol

Party of newspaper edior Janez BIciweis representing thc conscrvative side, the Li“ d Paゥ on heleft md he S∝ id Demo―

c」 pro‐

grarn, onc that cante under the banner ZbdinJena S10Venta(IJnited S10Venia). The United Slovenia prograin,■ ,st drawn up by the S10VCnija S∝ ieW h Vienna,baSi― cally called for the uniica

on of dl historic

cratic Party advocating a new idea: union ′

with the other southern Slavs.

I｀

he

`Ylugoslav' idea was propounded froni the

Slovenian regiOns within an autonornous

1 860s onward by thc distinguished CIroatian

unit ofmc Aust an inon`rchylt」 so c」 led lor the use of Slovene in all schools and

Bishop Josip Strossinaycr,whosc nainc still adorns streets in inany Slovenian towns and

ofices and the establishincnt of a local uni―

cities.The wnter and socidist lval Cank`r

versity But the demands wec rejectedぉ

even called for an independent Yugoslav

they would have required thc rcorganisation of the empire,along ethnic lines. It inust be rerncrnbered that the SIovenes

state in the fOnl1 0f a federal republic.

WWi&the Kingdom of Serbs,Croats&

of the tinlc were not contcmplating total indcpendence.Indccd,lnostlooked upon the Habsburg Empirc as a protective mantlc for

Siovenes

sinali nations against la・ ger ones they con‐

empic was known'om 1867).With thc

SIovenian political parties generally re‐

maincd faithful to Ausda‐ Hungay(as

he

sidered predators like ltaly,Gerinany`口 ld

heavy 10ss Oflife and desmctiOn Ofpropeity

Serbia.

during VV・

ConstitutionaI Period

the Habsburg rnonarchy, principles put

II｀

ヽ4,howcvet suppo■ was growing for an autonomous denlocradc state within

1le only tangiblc results for the SIovenes in

forward in the May 1917 1)cclaration of the

the resulting 1848 Austnan(Constitution

Wugoslav Club.Wiぬ the det■

wel℃ that laws would hencefordl be pub―

I‐

lished in SIovene and thatthc Siovenian llag should be threc horizontal stripes of white,

3ut the United Slovenia bluc and red. 】 prograrn would renlain the basis of all Slovcnian political denlands up to 1918 and political―cultural clubs and circles began tO

appear」 l

over thc tc:TlЮ ry.

The restofthe 19th ccntury andthe decade

beforeヽ Vヽ /1 were marked by economic developiment Sor the nlling classes― the rallWり frOm Ⅵenna Ю ttubljana opened in 1849,industnal companies were formed at Kra可 帥dTrbovje,and a llbegm o“ rat‐

ing at AjdOv"ina.However,matcrial

of Austria‐

Iungary andthe dissolution ofthe IIabsburg dynas,in 1918,Slovenes,Cro江 s and Serbs banded together and declaned themselves to be an independent state with the capital at

Zageb.Due to a perceived re■ from ltaly, howcvct thc statcjOined up with Serbia md

Montenegro in I)ecenlber 1918 under the name of me Kingdom of Serbs,Croas and SIoVeneS・ The Se力 ian StateSman StOlan Proti` becalme prime nlinister while the Slovene leader of the C'lerical Party,Anton [oroSec,was narned vice‐ prenlier Iく

Thc peacc treaties signed at Pans and Rapallo had givcn l`rge arnounts of Slo― venian and cr。 江ian tcrritO,tO Itay(Pnm_

conditions declined for tlle peasantry whose

orska and lstria),to Austna(KoroSko and

traditional sources of incorne were being

Hungay(pat OfPrekmu」 C)and dmOSth」

eroded.Between 1850 and 1910,inore than 300,000 SIovenes-56%ofme population―

a million SIovenes now lived in tllose coun― tnes(some,like the Slovenes in KoЮ ζ ka had

elTligrated to othcr countnes.

VOtedЮ dOSO,hOWeVer).■ he10SS Ofm。

Some advances wcre made onthepolitic」 Side・ Out Ofthe d″ わた ading ClubS)and `(“ the rα ♭ ο″ ι

a quartcr of its population and a third Of“ its

(CampSin WhiCh S10VeneS Ofmany

f

山lm

iand would“ main the single mostimportant issuc facing Siovenia between the wars.

Facts about the Clountry― History 19

The kingdolm,which lasted in one fon■

or

wet the Order Ofthe dtt in StterSka and

another until 1940,was donlinated by thc nOtiOn Of`YugOSlaV uniり ',SCrbian COntr01,

KoroSka.

imperialistic pressure缶 om lt」 y and politi‐ cal inrigue.Slovenia was reduced to littic

and Othcr left‐

nlore than a province in this centralist

SIOvenestook up arins forthe■ rst tiine since

TO countermisthc s10venian cOmmunis“ wing gЮ upsformed a Libem―

tion Front(Osvobodilne Fronte:OF),密

ld

kingdom― a position supported by both the

the peasant uprisings to resist the occupiers.

liberal bourgeoisic and the socialist parties for entircly(different reasons.The Slovcnes

The OF, dedicated to the pnnciples of a united S10vcnia in a Yugosiav republic,

did cnJOy culturd and linguistic autonomy,

joined mc dl_YugOsl四 Pa■isan ttiny ofthe

hOwcvcr,and economic progrcss was rapid.

KPJ ald its secictary‐ gencr」

,Tito.Under

Following the assassinttion of tte leaders

me Ddomites Proclam■ ion(1943),the KPS

Of thc mOst pOwerful Serbian and Croatian

was given the leading role in the front.1lhe Partisans received assistance from the Allies and,given the terrain anci long tradition of

Parties,King Alexander scized absolute powet abolished the constitution and pro― clalirled the XlingdOm ofYlugoslavia in 1929.

guerilla warfar in the Balkals,wer)the

But Alexandcr himself was murde“ d by a

nlost organiscd and succcssful of any rcsis‐

Croadan‐ backcd Macedonian in Marseillcs

tance inovemcnt dunng WWII.

in 1934 dunng an oficial visitto F'rance and

his cOusin,Princc Paul,was narned regent until Alexander's son,P'cteL canle of age.

｀ ■he

pc)litical clinlate changed in Slovenia

After lt」 y capitulated in 1943,the anti‐

OF Slovenian DOmobranci(Home Gua・ ds) were active in Priinorska and,in a bid to prevent thc corninunists fronl gaining l)。 ―

WhCn the CleriCd Parり joined the neW Cen‐ tdist govcrnment of Milan Stojadinovi6 in 1935,proving how hollow thtt pTty'sc」 Is

litical control in liberated areas, began supporting the(〕 ennans.

fOr S10venian autonomy had been. As a

he fascist UstaSa n江 lonalists in Croada and

K,sult,splinter groups仕 ol■ both the Ciencal and the Libcral parties began to seek closer

ltter・

contacts with the workers' ■lovements. In

Slovenia was not totally liberated until May 1945. As many as 12,0001)oinobranci and anti‐

1937 the Cornmunist Party of SIovenia

(KPS)wasお mlcd under the tutelage of Josip Broz Tito(1892‐ 1980)and the Com‐ munist Pany of Yugosiavia(KPJ).

I〕

)cspite this assistancc and the support of

heCetniksin Seめ ia,the Germans we“

fOrced to evacuate Belgrade in 1944.

cornmunist civilians wcrc sent back to Slovenia fronl refugee canlps in Austia by

the B

sh in Junc.Mostof mem we“

exe‐

lkiugoslavia avoided gctting involvcd in the

cuted by the cominunists over tlle next two months,their bodies thrown into caverns at Koё cvski Rog in Dole"Ska.

war until March 1941 when Princc Paul, under pressure from Bcrlin and Rolmc,

Posti″ ar Division

signed a treaり with the Axis powers.Hc was

(:)f iininediatc concern to Slovenia after thc

WWi:&the Partisan Struggie

overthrown in a coup backed by the 13ritish,

who installed King Paul II.Paul at irst attempted neutrality,but German arinies invaded Ylugoslavia in April,and the Wugo― slav ariny capitulated in less than t、

vo weeks.

Slovenia was split up ainong Gennany (Sttterska,GorenJska and Koroこ ka),Itay

(Ljubljana,Primorska,Notranjska,

DolenJska and Bcla Krajina)ald Hungary

(P“ kmurJc).Rep“ ssion and deportations

wtt was the status of liberated a・ eぉ along atic,cspeci」 ly Trieste,which the Partisans had occupied for40 days atthe end ofthe w鉗 .A peace ttaty signed in Paris in 1947 put T cst,珈 ld is suす ounds under Anglo‐ Amcrican administntion(the so―

the Ad

ca■ ed

Zone A)and the Koper and BuJe

a)aCaS under YugOSlaV COntЮ lin ZOne B.In 1954,Zone A(with both its I鯰 lian ald CtllniC S10Venian pOpulatiOnS)beCarne the (ISt

20 Facts aboutthe Country―

IIistory

′ Italian province of I'rieste. Koper and a 47km stretch of coastlater wentto SioVcnia and lsria to Croatia.The Belvcderc Treaty (1955)guaranteed Austria its 1938 bordcrs, oroこ ka. including most ofiК 【

Tito distalced himself from Stdin and domination by the Soviet lJnion as carly as 1948,risking invasion,but effons to crcate a communist state,い ith all the usual arrests,

show tials,purges and concen=ation canlps (SuCh aS thC OnC On thC iSiand Of(〕

Tito&Socialist VugOsiavia l｀

itO had becn clccted head of the Anti―

FascistAsscinbly forthcNational Liberation

of Yugoslavia(AVNOJ)in November 1943, which provided for a federal republic. Imnlcdiately after thc war he nloved quickly to consolidate his power under thc cornlnu― nist banner

lt soon bccamc clear that, dcspite the

cfforts of Slovcnian cornnlunist leader EdvttdKttdcljtOhaVethemenShrincdinthe new constitution,Slovenia'sl■ ghts

to self―

Oli in the

Adriatic), continued into the rnid-1950s. Industry was nationalised,pnvatc owncrship of agnculmral land llmitcd to 20 hecta℃ s, and a planncd central econorny putin placc.

But isolation fronl the inarkcts of the Soviet bloc soon forccd■lto to look to thc west. Ylugoslavia introduced featurcs of a

makCt CCOnOmy(inCluding WOrkerS'Selト

managCmCnt)thOugh What WaS by thCn c」 led

the Lcaguc of Colnmunists would

retain its dccisivc political role.(3reater cco― nomic κbrmsin the mld-1960s(especi」 ly

iamework of a federal Yugoslavia would bc

under Stane Kavё iё in SIovcnia)as wcll as rclaxed police control and border controls

very lilnlted beyond educational and cultural

for both foreign tourists and Yugoslavs

matters.Serbian dolnination iom Bclgradc

brought greater prospcrity and frccdonl of

would continuc and in sonle rcsIЮ CtS bc cvcn

movclnent,but the Colnmunist Party saw

mol℃ centrdist thal undcr the Kingdom of

such dcinocradsation as a thrcatto its powcr.

l1lugosiavia.

Apurgc aganstthcrcfonnistsin governinent was carried outin 1971-72,and many poli―

deternlination and autonorny within thc

ticians and dircctors werc pensioned off for

thcir `libcralism' and `cntreprencurial thinking'.A ncw constitution in 1974 gavc thc Yugoslav rcpublics nlorc independence (md autOnOmy tO the ethniC Nbmian prOV― ince of Kosovo in Serbia),but what wcrc to

becolne known asthc`lcaden ycars'in■ 4ugo― slavia lasted throughout thc 19701s until l｀ ito's death in 1980.】 Econornically,though, SIovenia was the rnost advanced republic in 看 ugoslavia by the end ofthc dccadc. I【

Crisis,Renewai&Change The economic dcclinc in■ iugoslavia in the carly 1980s lcd to intcr―

cthnic con■ ict,espc―

cially between Serbs and ethnic Albaniansin

autonomous Kosovo,which persists tO this day.Serbia proposcd scrapping clemcnts Of thc 1974 constitution in favour of n10re uni― for■ lity ofthc state in ecOnOrnic and cultural

′

′ JOSip Br02‐ TitO,ヽ へ hOSe dOrninatiOn Of pOSt‐

VVVVll Yugoslavia ended with his death in 1980

areas. rhis, Of course, was anathenla t。 Slovenes who saw thenlselves threatened. In 1987,thc libcralrnagazine Nο ν αRι ッυα

Facts aboutthe Country― Histon′ 21

:ndependence

CIC Outlining a in巧 ub」 ana publiShed an new SIovenian national progranl: political

ln Ap

pluralism, dcnlocracy, a rnarket econorny

,ピ

l 1990,Slovenia became the irst

and independcncc for SIovenia, possibly

iugoslav republic to hold ilee elections and shed 45 ycars of cornlnunist rule.1)Eヽ 4C)S,

witllin a Yugoslav confederation.「 rhe new liberal leadcr of the Slovenian corninunists,

a coalitlon of sevcn opposition parties,won 559b ofthe vote and Kuё an,headofwhat was

Milan Kuё an,did not opposc thc demands

now called thc Party of l)einocratic

and opposition partics began emcrging.′

Rcnewal, was clcctcd `president of thc

I｀

1lc

ル ル αο hCad Ofthe CCnial gOVemmCntin

′ prcsidency'. rhc lcader Of the christian

Belgrade, the Serbian cornmunist leader Slobodanヽ 41loSevi6, resolved to put pres―

Democrats,Ittzc Peterle,"came primc nlinister

surc on Slovenia.

worHng lortheルf′′グJれ α(YOuth)Weekly and

h the summer,after Seめ ia had rejected Slovenian and(C:rOaiari proposals for a con― federa● on and tllreatened to declare a state

a Junior arnly ofEcer Who had given away

of emergency, the Slovenian parliament

`militaW Seccts'were put on tnd by a mlll―

adopじ da`dccla江 lon on the sovcrcignty of

tary coui and SentenCed tO pnSOn.(()ne Of the jOumalists,JmCZ JttSa,would seⅣ e as

the state ofSIovenia'.I:Icncefordl Slovenia's own constitu」 。n would direct its pOlitica,

defence rninister forthc irst 15 inonths after

ccOnOmic andjudici」 sysems;お derd laws

indcpendence.)Mass denlonstrations ,Ⅳ ere

would apply only ifthey were notin contra― diction to it.Arcfcrendunl on the quesdon of indcpendencc wぉ scheduledお rjust beお κ

In Junc 1988,three SIovenian joumdists

held throughoutthc country in support ofthc four.

In thc autunln, Scrbia unilatcrally scrapped thc autonomy of Kosovo(wheκ 80% of the population is ethniCally Alba―

Christmas. (1)n231)ecenlber 1990,88%of the clec‐ tOrate votedう or an indcpendcnt republic―

nian).SIOVeneS Were ShOCked by the moVe, fearing the sanle could happen to thern.A

cffective within six lnonths.The presidency

rally OrganisedJOintly by the Slovenian gov― emment and the OppOS On in均 ub」 ana in

labelled the inovc secessionist and an antl‐ constitutional act.Serbia then procecded to rad thc Yugoslav monetary systcm and mis‐

February 1989 condernned thc rnovc.

of the Ylugosiav Federation in Belgrade

In the spring ofthat yearthc new opposi―

appropriated almost the entire monettty

tiOn panies published the May]Declaration dcrnanding a sovereign state for Slovenes bascd on dcrnocracy and rcspect for hunlan

issue planncd forYugosiaviain 1991-IJSS2 billion.Secing the handwnting on the wall

nghts.It、 vasn't all about political altruisln, of course.In Septenlbet the Slovenian par―

began stockpiling weapons and on 25 June 1991 Slovenia pulled out of the Yugoslav Federation for good. `1l s evening drearns

liament an■ ended the constitution to legalise

much rnanagerllcnt of its own resources― rnore rnoney,Ⅳ as still going out of Slovenia than corning in― and peacc‐ drne corn■ land ofthe al■

ned forces.Scrbia announccd plans

tO h01d a`meeing Oftmth'in巧 ubtana On its intcntions. When Slovenia banned it, Serbia and all the other rcpublics except

Croata announccd an economic boycott of Siovenla,cu■ lng o壼 '259そ ,of its expols.In

January 1990 Slovenian delegates walked out on an extraordinary congress of the League of Cornlnunists, thcrcby sounding the death kne1l ofthe pa:■ y.

all too clearly, the Slovenian governrnent

are allowed,'President Iく uё an told the Jubi―

lmt crowd in巧 ubjma's Kongrcsni ttg t“ following evening.`・ 1lomol■ ow isanew day.'

Indced it was.()n27 June the Wugoslav ariny began marching on Slovenia but inct gК tt rcsistance from thc Tcribrid Dctncc Forces,the police and the gener」 popula‐ ■on,Within scveral days,units ofthe federal anny gm disintegrating;Belgrade thre■ ― ened aeri」 bornbardincnt and total war,as “ would soon follow in the Croatan cities of Vukovar and l)ubrovnik. ′ I｀

he inilitary action had not corne totally

22 Facts aboutthe(3ountry―

く ]cography`&(3cology

unprovoked.・ 1lo dramatise their bi(l forindc― pendencc and to generatc suppOrt frOnl alcss

than sympttheic west,which wanted tO sce Yiugoslavia continuc to existin some fOnn Or anothet SIovcniall leaders had balted iBel‐ grade by attempting to takc cOntr。 1 0f the border crossings■ ■st.13elgrade apparently

never expected Slovenia tO resist tO the degree that it did,believing that a show of forcc、vould be suficient forittO back dOwn. As no territorid clalms or minonty issues

were involved, thc ,k`ugoslav governinent

the Alps;the I)inaric karst be10w the hills and

enCOmpaSsing the`truc'or`onginal'Karst plateau(frOm WhiCh」 1 0ther k=st regions arOund the WOrld take thCir naine)betWCen 町 ubUma ttd the lt」 ian boderi thc Slo― venian littoral,47km of coastline along the Admatic Sea; the `lowlands', c。 :Tlpnsing about one― ■lth of the terntory in varlous parts Of the cOuntry;and the essentially:nat Pannonian plaln to the cast and nO h― east. Much ofthe interior OfS10veniais drained

agreed on 7 July to a trucc brokered by

by thc nvcrs Sava,which riscs ncar BohinJ and KralJska Gora,and Drava■ om Austria;

lcadcrs ofぬ e European Community(EC).

they both empty into the l)anube.C)thcr

IJndcr thc so‐ called lBIrioni lDeclaration, Slovenia would put further moves to assert its independence on hold for three rnonths

impo■ ant nvers are the SOё a Ю the west,

Provided it was granted recognition by the

the Kolpa,which brms part of ttc sOuth― ・ castern border with く E!roatia。 rhere are SeVCr滅 `intrmittent'riVCrS(Cg the UniCa, Pivka and Rcka),which disapIЮ ar into karst caves, only to resurface again later under

ECa■ erthattime.Thewahadlastdjust10 days and taken the Lvcs of 66 people.

・1lo everyonc's surprisc, IBclgrade an‐

nounced that it would withdraw the federal

arnly fronl Slovenian soil within three rnontlls,which took place on 25(Dctoben ln late I:)eceml)er,Slovenia got a ncw constitu―

which nows into the Adnatic,the Mura in thc noll:h― east,the lく rlka

to thc sOuth_east and

different nanles.Slovenia's largest lakes are Clerknica,which is dry fOr pan.Of the year, and BoinJ・

tion and the EC forrnally recognised the

country on 15 January 1992.Slovenia was

Main Regions

admittcd to the United Nations on 22 May

′ he toPOgraphical divisions do not accu‐

1992 as thc 176tll rnenlbcr― state.

rately reflect S10venia's cultural and

I｀

historical differences nor do the 147 οらごj″ ′

(adminiStmtiVe COmmunes or municipal― itieS)help the traVcller much.Instead,

GEOGRAPHY&GEOLOGY Slovenia is a centtal Europe`m country with .ace area of only 20,256 sq km―

a suぼ

about

O.2%of Europc's Юt」 land mass.Compac it with W」 es,Isracl or h」 f of SwiLcrland and yOu'1l get the picture.It borders Austia

for 324krn to the north and Croatia for 546kln tol the south and south‐ east. Much

shorter frontiers are shared with ltaly (235krn)to the west and Hungary(102kin) to the north‐ cast.

″g権 (rcgions or pЮ vinces):Go“ njska, Primorska,Notraniska,Doleniska,Bela Krajina,StaJeska,P“ kmule anこ KoЮ 6ka. Greater Ljubljana,by far the na」 On's iargest city,is pinched between lし 、 ″O groups of hills to the west,cast and south― east and a nOn― arable

maShlald(巧 ublanSkO BarJe)tO

the south.Itis not in thc cxact centre of thc

Gcographers divide Slovcnlainto as many as 13 diffcrent areas,but there`u・

Slovenia is bcst viewed as a country with a

c“ita city(LJubjma)and eightけ adition」

c basically

country but close tO it.

Gorcnjska,to the nOrth and no■

h‐

west of

SiX topographies: tllc Alps, including tlle Julian Alps,the Kamnik‐ Savi■ a Alps,the Kaavanke chan md the POhO」 c Massif to

the capit」 ,is the country's mOst mountan‐

the nOrth and nOrth― eaSti the Dre― AIDinC hillS

prOVinCid centκ is Kranj.Primorska,a very diverse region Of h■ ls,valleys,karst and a short cOastlinc on thc north_wcstern side of

of ldrija,Cerkno,Sko巧 a Loka and PosavJe spreading acrOss the entirD southerll sidc Of

ous province andcOntains Slovenia's highest

peaks,including Mt′ rriglav(2864m).■ 1le

Facts aboutthc Country― Climtte 23

the lstian peninsula, fonns the country's westenl border.It has two`capitals',Nova Gonca and Koper,and the ltdian nllnoriw is based hcre.Notranり Ska,to the south and south―

wcst of Liubuma,is m underdeveト

oped area of forests and karst― Sloverlla's `last iontier'.Its maln towns a・ e Cerknica

that is le■

the once glo江 histoncd Province ofCa

n

of a.

CLIMATE In generd,Slovcnia is temperate with lour disinct seぉ ons,but thc topography ccates thr(κ

individud clunates.The north― west has

an Alpine clilnate with strong inΠ uences

and]Postoり na. I)。 lenり

cente a SIove■ Gradec,is」 l

skalies south ofthe Sava River and

counts several distinct`reas,including the Krka Valley, thc hilly Koё evJe and the

iomthe Atlandc andabundantpκ cipita」 on. Teinperttures in the Alpine vaneys are mod― erate in sununcr but cold lll winter Thc coast

Posavieregions.NovoMesto ist“ maincity

and a large part of Pril■ orska as far as the

hcre.Bcla KraJina,a land of rolling hills,

Soё a V」 ley

birch groves and folk culture bclow

with warnl,sunny weather nluch ofthe year and mild WinterS(thOugh theら げα,aC。 ld “ the Ad ― and dry north― casteny wind froln alc,can be neК e attimes).Most ofeastern

DolenJska,has its ccntes at Met

ka and

CmOmeli. StaJerska, Slovenia's iargest

″gJα

,

hls a Mcditcrralean climae

stretches to the cast and nortll‐ cast and is a

Slovcnia has a Condnental climate v

land of mountans,

αフhOt)SummCrS (in reCent yCarS ν winters.

vers,v滅 lcys,vincya・ds

and mcienttowns.MaiborandCetearethc centres and Slovenia's second and third largest cities respectively. PrekrnurJe,

th hot

and C01d

Slovenia gets most ofits rain in the sprlng

(Mttch and Apnl)and autumn(October and

`beyond the Mura River' in Slovenia's

Novembe⇒ ;precipitttion arnounts vary but

extrelme north_cast,is basically a nat plain though there are hilis to thc north. 1｀ hc ves within its bordes, Hunganal lninority

average about 80()min in the eastern part of the countlγ ,14(X)nl■ l in the ccntre,1000nlln

and the centrc is Murska Sobota.Sitting on

January is the coldcst month witll an avcragc ainu」 temperatu“ of-2° C and July is the

tOp of Sta」 erska, littlc Iく oroこ ka, with its

on thc coast and 3500rnm in thc Alps.

24 Facts aboutthe Country―

Ecology&Environirlcnt

ECOLOGY&ENVIRONMENT

Bled ２ い １

ｍ鰤 術 中 ｕ ．

Rant口

￨

,

Habitation Slovenia is predorninaniy hilly or nloun―

■ m"腱tum

”

tainous: about 909ら of thc surface is nlore than 30C)in abovc sca level.Forest,sorne of it virgin, covcrs ■lorc than half of the

つ ０

country, making Slovcnia thc grccncst

０ １ ・

country in Europe outside Finland.Agricul―

tural land (fiCIdS, OrChardS, VineyardS, ptttures etc)accounts briust undcr 43%of the totd.

Koper ■ mpeは ure

Ｔ “

ｈ セ

” ∞   ”   ”

画鰤

R□ nnall

Thepopulttiondensityisjustovcr981χ Ople per sq kin,with thc ulも an― rurd rato sp t

“ ∞ ”

」Πlost exそ Кdy in h」 ■ Thc■ vc largestま Dtde― ments in Slovema ae LJub」 狙a(270,αЮ), M bor(101,7∞ ),Cete(39,7∞ ),Kranj (36,7α ))and Koper(24,4CЮ )

４ １

C

eS and tOWnS lit巧 ubljana,CeljC,

PtuJ and Koper were built on the foundations

of Roman or even Pre‐ Rornan scttlemcnts

whilc others are essentidly ncw(cg Nova

Llubllana

―

￨―

―

い

℃

■

m"献

u呻

Ｔ “

ｍ鰤

RI耐 」1

Gorica).Many cities in SIovcnia are ringcd ‐ by housing estates.■ 'raditional f`道 rnhouscs 征c quitc differcnt in thc Alps,thc Karst

rcgion,Pannonia and ccntral Slovcnia

-11

though modcrn `Europcan― stylc'housing appears everywhere nowadays.The hayrack

―

1耐 :I皿11

ιοり,thC (た οzο ′

mOSt diStinCtly SIOVCnian Ofall

folk architccturc,can be secn cverywhere in

thc country except in PrekrnurJe and sornc parts of Prirnorska.

Maribo『 ■ m"はum

° F

“

２ “ １

￨￨

℃ ∞

R」 n籠 ￨

￨

I｀

４

:::￨

1°

_______二

４ １

０ １ ・

1舞

”

Ｏ ０

III

￨ポ 1 31

∞

ｍ

Ⅲ

JFMAMJJASOND

“

●

”

[

Po:!ution

′ hough Slovcnia is a vcry`green'country in both senses of thc 、 vord, pollution is a

problcm,particularly in thc Sava,Mura and

lower SavinJa nvcrs.Raln has washed dl sois of■ lth dumped in thc lKa・st region undcrground, and wastc carried by thc `disappcanng'Unica alld L」 thrcatcns the LJub」

ub」 帥ica rivers

ma M″ sh.

Air pollution is」 so a big worry.Nitrogcn

wanncst(21° C).Thc mcan avcragc tcinpcra― tuF in Ljubljana is 9.5° C.Thc numbcr of hours of sunshinc rangcs bct、 vcen 170()and

2300,with均 ubliana on thc 10w cnd Ofthc scale,Portoroを on thc top.Thc cliinate charts on thcsc pagcs sho、v you whatto expect and

oxidc cinittcd by cars on the llighway con― necting GorenJSka with thc coast is hurting the pine lorests of NotrattSka,and it's aso

dalnaging buildings,outdoor sculptures and other artwork in rnany historical citics. Sulohur dioxide lcvels are high in citics and

when to expect it in various palts of thc

tOWnS likC SOgtanJ,■ bOVlC md巧

country.

whcre coalis burncd in dlcrmO―elecmc POwcr

ub」 ma

Facts aboutthe Country― stations and heaing plants.′ 「 he nation's solc

Flora&Fauna 25

volves and lynx as wcll as brown bcars, 、

with the construction of Waterpurifying

somc rare spccies likc thc II100rtOnOise,cave hedgchog,scarab bcctlc and varlous types of donllicc.1ヽ vo species unique to Slovenia arc g“ :″ s,the uniquc`human iSh' P“οr`′ sα ″ “ cave pools,andthe inarbled thatlives in karst ′′ α).Slovenia soё a trout rSaJ″ ο ″α″″ο′

plants, the rnonitoring of companies dis‐

prOvides a habitat for 344■ bird species.

charging waste and thc introductlon of gas heating. Indeed, ovcr thc 10‐ ycar pcriod from 1985 t。 1995,sulphur dioxidc enus―

At present,therc is only one naiond p`rk―

nuclear pOwer plant(江 Krgko in DolcnJSka) currently provides 37%ofclectic POWerbut halfis Owned by(3roatia and Slovenia plans tO stop using it altOgcther in 2023.

Steps have been taken to clcan up theiness

sions were cut almost in half and nitrogen oxide lcvels rcduccd by about 201%.Pollu― tion levcls rarcly cxceed thOSe pcrnlittcd in the rest Of central and westcrn lEurope,and wanlings arc issued pcnodically.

Nationai Parks the 83,807‐ hect2re'rriglav INational PFulk enc01mpassing alinOst all ofthe Julian Alps―

although proposals havc been inade to sct aside fOur morc: in thc lKialnnik Alps, the Pohor」 c Massif,the Karst and the Koこ evJC―

dozen zoncs designated as regiond Plrks.TheSe can range m sizc frOm the seё ovje satpans and the (835 hcctares)south of PonOroを RObanov Kot(1423 hectares), a pristine 1lolpa rcgion.1｀ 1lere are another tWO‐

FLORA&FAUNA F:ora s10venia is hOrne tO sorne 2900 plant spccies and about 7o Of thern_1■ any in the Alps― a・ e unique to the country or wcrc irst clas―

■1ley(2475 valley in Stalerska,tothe LOgarヽ イ

sified here. Triglav National Park is

heCtareS).

cspecially rich in endenllc■ owcring plants, including the T'riglaV`rOSC'(aCtually a pink CinquCお 11),the blue CluSi'S gCntian,yel10W

GOVERNMENT&POLiTiCS

hawk's_beard, Julian pOppy,(3anliola and the pu■

ly

'le Zois bell flowei

Fauna C〕

ornrnon European animals live in Slovenia

in abundance such as deer,boar,chan10is,

s10vcnia's constitution provides for a parha‐

mentary system of govcrnment.Thc Naiond Assembly(D:彪 avni Zbor),Which has exclusiveju sdictionovcrぬ e passing of laws,consists of 9C)deputies elected for four yea」 rs by prOpO」 tiOnal representation.'The 40 mcm“ rs Ofth cOunci1 0f Sttc(Drを 四 ni

SVCt),WhiCh perお rmS an adViSOry r01e,aC clccted for ivc― year tei口 ns by regions and interest groups.The head of state,thc presi‐ dent,is also the supreine conlmander of the lirectly for a arincd forces and is elected く

ma

mum Oftwo ive― yeπ tenns.Executive

poweris vestd in thc pnme ministcr ttld his or her 15‐ mcmber cabinet.Thc judicial systcm cOnsists Ofa supreme cOun,お ur high

courts which selve as appeals cOuns, 11 circuit courts,and 44 district courts which arc the courts of irst instance.Judges cxer‐

cise full judicial authority and their appointmentby thc Nadonal Asseinbly is lor ′ n bearis one of a The bro、 へ number of European anirnals living in one of the、 ″。rld's rTlost forested cOuntnes.

hfc.Therc is no de■ h pendty in Slovenia. Slovcnia counts sevcn political iparties :血e Liberd Demo― Epre"ntd m pa `mle威 crats of SloVenia (1_′ I)S), the S10Venian

26 Facts abOutthc cIOuntry_Govcnllnent&Politics PeOple's Pany(SLS),thc Social Democratic

In the November 1996parliainentary elec―

Party Of Slovenia(SDS), the S10venian Chrisian Democrats(SKD),the United List

tiOnS, a CentriSt allianCe of the Libcral

of Soci」 Democrats(ZLSD),thc Demo―

Cratic I)arty of Pcnsioners Of SIOvenia (DeSUS),and thc Slovenian Nationd Party

garnered inore thal1 55%ofthe vote,seating 49 MiPs. I)rnovOck was retained as prilne miniSter The Chnstian iDeinocrats,wracked

(SNS).Their polidcalleanings run the spec―

by inighting and split intO factiOns,sat 10

trum■om the faright(SNS)and nght(SLS) to the ccntre(LDS)and the centrc‐ le貴

just 9%.In NoVembcr 1997 56-ycar― old

(ZLSD). In the irst electiOns held in independent

DelnOCratS,thC PCOple's Party and DeSUS

MiPs while suppOrt fOrthe ZLSI)turnbled to P'residcnt Kuё an was returned for his secOnd

four parties(Liber」 Democrats,Chnstian

afterwinning nearly 56%ofthepOpular VOte. JaneZ:Podobnik of the SLS carne in SeCOnd withjust 18%.

Democrats,Unitcd List and Social Demo― Crats)Won morc than 60%of tte votc with

nities arc guarantccd ce■ aln nghts undcrthe

Slovenia(Dcceinber 1992),a codition of

63 deputies taking seats.The leadcr of thc

Liberd Dcinocrats,Janez Drnovζ ek,was narned prine ministerヽ 41lan Kuё an was

ter■ l

The llungarlan and ltahan ethnic cOrnrnu‐ constitution including education in tllcirown language and the right to use it in public

｀

eleCted preSident ofthc republic with 649b of

adininistration and the courts.■ hey arc also guarantCed repreSentation in the lNational

the votc.

Assenlbly of one dcputy each.The law on foreigners applies tO those individuals of other nationalides in S10vcnia who did not Obtain citizcnship by I)ccenlber 1991. S10VeniaiS a member ofthe Alps‐ Adnatic

AssociatiOn, a regional grOup bringing

togetherHunga,,cЮ ma,B∼ 征la mdadja_ Cent regions of Austria and ltaly for multilatcral cooperatiOn in many ields.It is

」SO a menibcr ofCEFTA(Ccn『 d Europcan Frec Tradc Associalon),including IIungary, the(C〕

zech lRepublic, Slovakia, I)。 land and

Romanla. SIOVCnia'S rClations with Austria are goOd, in spitc of neO_1ヽ Iazi attacks(On a SIovenc―

language school and publishing hOuse in КllagCnfurt in 1993 and 1994;the rlghts of Ctllnic S10vcnes therc arc cnsllrincd in the Austrian cOnstitutiOn. Rclations bctween Slovcnia and IIungary are warnithough c01_ Oured by the 8500 etllnicヽ 4agyars living in Prekinur」 e and the estirnatcd 5000 Slovenes in SOuth― WeSt

Hungary.An agreententsigned

by bOth COuntrieS in 1992 ensures each group's rights. I:)ifficultics with S10venia's neighbOur tO

the wcststem iom theland clams Oflta■ an

President Milan iく uё anヽ″as elected fOr a

SeCOnd terrrlin Novernber 1997.

CitiZenS WhO either left S10Venia(then Yugo― SlaVia)Willingly after.ヽ rヽ VⅡ (the`Optants')

orthose who wcre cxpelled.Italy even went so far as to grant citizenship tO everyone born

Facts aboutthe Country― Econoiny 27 in ltalian_。

ccupicd land up to 1943,which

to 20%ofthc G:DP and exported inore than

included such`un_Itaian'places as ldrija

a quarter of its goods.A favourite saying in

and PostoJna. Slovcnia has a long list of disputes with

those days was:`The laws are writen in

Croatia,including oncs oVerSlovcnian prop‐ e■ y rights in Croatia and the precisc position

Bclgrade,rcad in Zagreb and carricd out in Slovcnia.'

・ hc negativc cffects of thc loss of its I｀

of state borders,eSpecially those in Plran

m=kets m the brmer Yugoslavia(once 30%

Bay off Seё ovlJC,Which Slovcnia clams

mcmbership of thc EurOpcan Union(EU)

ofS10Venia'S CXp。 ■S)and the pain CauSed by reforllrls needed to mく )dcrnise tlle econorny havc long since faded away.Thc country has been able to bouncebackprincipally because its highly cducated population quickly re‐

were b10cked by ltaly until March 1995

Oricntcd itself tOwards wcstern Europe.

entircly.

Slovenia was adrnitted into thc COuncil of

Europe in May 1993. Ncgotiations ovcr

when iROme drOpped its veto. All polldcal

Sorne 70%ofSlovenia's foreign trade is now

parties have signed a declaration in favour of

with the Eu,cspecidly Germany,Italy,

joining I、 し 、 T().

F'rancc and Austria.

In June 1996 SIovenia

European Union(WEU)council and a ycar

、 vas foitunate vvith hindsight, Slovcnia not to have had many largC induStrial COn―

becanlc an associate nlcnllber of the VVicstern

latcr an assOciatc meinbcr ofthc EU.Though

g10rneratcs that in today's econonlic clinlatc

desittojointhcEUisbynomcansuniversal

wOuld prOve unviable to mantttn.Although

in s10venia,a p01l taken in Septenlbcr 1997

Slovenia still llas its share of corn■

suggcsted that over 60%of citizens would

style dinosaur industrial plants,the country's

vote in favour ofitin a refercndurn.Slovcnia

furniture,textile and paper sectors produce high― quality goods that can be sold through= out Europc.Skis,for exarnple,are onc ofthe count・ y's niche products.

has nOw bccn invited to bcgin negodations for EU meinbership.

ECONOMY

lunist―

Anyonc scarching for s■ lokestacks and

After a fcw tough yeTs folloWing indcpcnd―

nllnes can ind steelworks atJesenice,tcxtilc

encc, Slovenia has cmerged as one of the

mms at KranJ and cod mines east of巧 ub― ljana■ Trbovlje and Hmstnik.But moκ typicaly the landscape is now dottcd with

strongest econoinics of the fornlcr SOCialist cOuntrics Of castern and ccntral lE,uropc. Inflation has dropped,enlploynlent is on the risc and its per― capitagross dornestic product

uPgraded factorles thanks to foreign invcst― mcnt.French Renault cars aurc asscinblcd at

(GDP)一 currendy 60%ofthc EU average―

thc Revoz plant in Novo Mesto and the

is cxpecteci to surpass thosc of(]reece and Po■ ugal by 2002.

CorenJe鳳 ℃hcn appliance manufacturcr in VclenJe docs subcontract manufactunng for

IBIut for many Slovencs, the econornic

Gcrmmy's AEG and Qucne md MFIint騰 UK.

Picture rcmains unclear. Rcal wages con― tinuc to grow ― but faster than in■ ation, which puts Slovenia's lnternatonal cornpeti― tiveness at a disa(lvantage.Innation z。

。rned

But foreign investment has not been as high as originally expected;SIovenia got a siow st:】 rt in reforming laws that would

up to 200% aftcr independencc and has

enticc large cOmpanies into thc country.An

steadily decreased since; it stood at about

alllcndrnentto Slovenia's constitution allow―

9.5%in 1997.tJnemployrnent continues to

ing the sale of land to foreigners was only passed in July 1997 as Part ofthe association

hovcr around 14.59る

.

Slovenia has never bcen a poor country.

Prior to independcnce it was by far the

amcndment with the EU. Also, foreign investors are forbidden to lay buy shares only from the Slovenian I])evel―

wealthiest rcpublic of Yugoslavia.Although

takc part directly in privatisations.They■

they represented only 8%of the total popu― latiOn,the industrious Slovenes produced up

oprnent F'und, a governrnent agency that

28 Facts aboutthe Country―

Population&People

reccivcs 20%of all shares in enterpnscs that a“ )being sold by the state.Howevet foreign

1,991,000,99%of whom a“ ,cidzens.The v`st m崎 o ty(87%)of the populaion tte

cntcrprises have no restrictions on participat―

Sl()venes, descendants of tlle South Slavs

ing withjoint ventuК s and can own l(Ю

Mass privatisation in Slovenia of unprof‐

who settled in lwhat is now Slovenia and p″ ts of■ 」 6th ccntury"Austna AD. and Hungary from the

itable industries built uP by the foriner regime came about rnuch laterthan in somc

Hung″ ims mdsomc 23∞ Gypsies iargcly

%of

a company.

othcr castcnl European countrics.A colmpli‐

cated`translormation of ownership'scheme was putin place in 1994 but got or to a slow stait;by 1996 1ess than a third of the rnore

than 140()oligible companies had actually

been privatised. lBy the end of 1997, howevet that igure had increa〕 ed to:nore than 809る 。 One of the fastest‐ growing scctors in the

Slovenian econolTly is tou sin,though thc nuinbers of tounsts have yet to reach p“

)―

1991 1evels. In 1997, Slovenia carned USSl.18 billion from tounsm,twicc the ,cceipts of 1994 but an actual drop of4%in earnings over the previous year,blanled■ on thc strong US dollar, lower duty‐ flte and

petr01 sdes aOng thc ltalian border and ねlling casino revenucs.Thc mttOrity of vis‐ itors come from lt譴 ゝ Gennany

and Austia

―in ttat order.

There are just over 8500 ethnic

in Prekmur]e as wcll as 3060 1talians in Priinorska.`Othcrs',accounting for ll.5% of the population, include Croats, Scrbs,

ethnic Aibalians and those who identify thernsclvcs sinlply as`Muslilns'. The ltalians and IIungarlans arc consid―

cred indigenous nlinorities with rights protccted undcr the constitution, and they

have special deputies looking after their ′ intercsts in parlianlent. rhOugh sOrne rnenlbers of the otller groups have livcd and worked in Slovenia forrnany years,■ lost are rccent arrivals ― refugees and econornic

immigrants frOm the nghting in the fOrmer Ylugosiav rcpublics.'T'heir status as nonciti―

zcns in Slovenia rem」 ns h2メ and many Slovenes havc very racist feelings abOut thcrn.Scvcral thousand illlgrants crOssく )vcr the border from Croatia cach day to work in SIovenia.

in the econorny, cOnsidering hOw rural

Ethnic SIovenes living outside the national borders nunlber as rnany as

Slovenia appears at irst.It compnses Only

400,000,with the vast malority(almost

6%of GDR as Opposed to industry at 39%

75%)in thc USA and Cmada(Cleveland,

Agriculture plays a rcnlarkably minor rOle

(manufactunng accounts br 30%of th江

(:)hio,is the largcst`Slovenian'city Outsidc

igure)and services at 55%.

S10Venia.)In addition, some 50,000

A little nlone than one in 10 SIovenes now liVes off farming alonc― in 1960 nearly half

SIovenes or more live in the ltalian regi()ns

agnculture.IBut as Slovcncs Iove the cOuntry―

of(:)orizia, Udine and ・ ricstc, another 15,000 in Austnan Cannthia(Kanitcn)and 5(XЮ in south_west Hung"y

sidc,it is cstiinacd tha a quatr Of the populatiOn farms at somc pOint,growing

ca‖ y in Slovcniain rccentyears and is almost

the populatiOn were engaged full― tirnc in

grapes or raising bees for honey.11lc n10st

I｀

Lit expcctancy has increased dramati‐

POPULAT10N&PEOPLE

江 westenl European icvels-70 ycars fOr rnen and almost 78 years for worncn.「 Fhe binh rate in sIovcnia is IOw_undcr lo pcr 100〔 )population against 12.5inthc UK and 15.5in tte USA. ■le agc structurc is theκ forc relativcly 01d,With the aVCrage age for men about 35

S10Venia'S laSt CenSuS(1991), conducted

yeaS andお r Women just over 38.About

imponant farm prOducts a・ e wheat,cOnl, pOtatOeS,IЮ ttS,appleS and grapeS・ St巧 erSka hops for beer are a snlall butimportantexp。

111

crop.

eVery 10 yearS,countedjust under l,966,(〕 00

30%of the paurents Of the 19,000 children

peOple; the estinlated POpulation nOw is

born in 1995 werc unrnan・ ied.

Facts aboutthe Countty― Education 29

EDuCAT:ON

Slovenia has a strong tradition in thc sci―

Slovenia is a highly cducated sociel/With a

ences and has producedrnany greatscientists

literacy rate ofovcr 99.6%forthose ovcr 10 years of age.Indeed,being able to read and

― from the 17th century ipolylnatll Janez

wnte is ingralned in the culture. `ヽ Vhat is

sory and free for eight yean,until thc age of

κgulated the Liublianica River in the late 18th centuり ,tO the paton Ziga Zois and Fridcnk Pregl,who won the Nobel Prize in 1923 for organic cheinistry.The Slovenian Acaderny ofArts and Sciences has aresearch

αぶ ο′ α,usudly り

centre with 14 institutes studying dl aspcc協

yOur surnalmc'' in Slovene is `」 (α たo sI te yourselP' ′ぶι 'or`How do you w ``′ ″αぶο′ α,iS COmpul― Prinlary SChO。 1(ο S″ οツ 15.Sccondaly school(s“

“ are orien‐ lasts for four years.Sorne schools `グ

tated toward a partiCular prOfeSSiOn (eg nurSing);OtherS― like the gJ“ ′αZり `(high SCh001S)一 prepare pupilS fOr uniVerSity・ Those attending a threc‐ year vocational jε α (teChniCal αぶ ο′ course go to a′ οた′

college).Ethnic ltalians“md Hunganans cm choose to be taught in thelr inother tongues at 18 elementary schools and 46 secondary‐

school depaltmentSiargely in PCkmule and PHInorska. Slovenia has only two universides― the UniVerSiけ Of巧 ublma and a SmallerOnC a Maribor― with a totd enrolment of just

undcr 50,000 students. Cornpctition for places is stiff,and secondary― school pupils must takc exarns to be accepted intol nlost

Vajkad Vavasor md Gあ riel Grubet who

of science as well as history and culture.

ARTS Architecture,SCuipture&Painting Exainples of Rolnanesque architecture can bc found in inany pa■ s of Slovenia,includ‐ ing the churchcs at Stiё na Abbcy,at Muta and IE)ravograd in Iく oroζ ka and Podsreda

Castle,but ine at froln the penod is ra℃ iving only in illunlinated lnanuscnpts. sulぃ ′ Gothic palnting and sculptu“■s another mattet witll excellent、 vorks― sonle com―

rnissioned by burghers and wcalthy landowners― at PtuJska Gora(the ca・ ved 」ttt in the Church of the Virgin Mary),at BohinJ(freSCOeSin the ChurCh OfStJohn the

Baptist)andHrastovte(Dance ofDeath wal

faculties.「 he largest nunlber of students are

palnting at the ChurCh Of■ lC HOly Trinity).

cnrolled at the Faculty of iEconornics in 巧 ublianaand attheTcchnic」 Faculty ofthe

Iinpo■ ant palnters of this dlmle were Johan―

I｀

University of Maribo■

The unlvcrsity coursc of study usually lasts fouryears wih anotherycarforstudents ο′″α),WhiCh tO take their degreC(ν おο滋■′ usually requires writing a thcsis.But there vo― year`lst ο′ψ tt WhCh iS equiVa―

are cther prograins,including at、

St甲 'degO(ツ 権

S′

,

nes dc Laibaco(John of巧 ublana),who dccoratd the Church ofthe Assumption in MIuliava:Jerncl ofLoka,whoworked mostly 征ound SblaLoka;md Johannes Aquilaof Radgona,who did the」ヒescoes in the inag― nincent church at Martianci in P“ kmu」 e. Much Gothic architecture in Slovenia is of the l■ e period;the earthquake of 151l took

lent to a college or associate degree abroad

care of many buildings crected bcforc tllcn

and prepares students for adrninistrativc

(though Kopcr's Vcnctian Cothc IЮ ggia

workland the like,Study at graduate levels is ■lore individualised and involves indepen―

ea

dent research.A medical degree takes about

linllted tocivil buildings feg the town houses

seven ycars to cornplete.

in Skola Loka and Kra刊 and B

The academlc year for pnmary and scc‐ ondary schoolslasts from l September Ю 25

and Practorlall Palace date back a century e→ .Rendssance

Italian‐

architcture is mostly o Cttle).

influenccd baroque abounds in

Slovenia,and you'1l find inany grcat archi―

lma

stinas June with 10 days hollday around Ch and the New Year,a wcck off in carly Feb―

tecturd examples,pmicularly in Li山

ruary and another one at Easter. The

cathedral).For sculpture, look at JoZef Straub's plague pi■ arin Manbo■ the golden

university yearis fronl 1 0)ctoberto 30 May, with exarns in June and early July.

(UrSulinC ChurCh OfthC H01yTrinity and thC

alta:r in the Church of the Annunciation at

30 Facts aboutthe Country―

Ans

CIrngrob orthe work of Francesco Robba in Liubljana(Fountain ofthe Camiolan Rivers

after the devastating 1895 earthquake. But

in Mcstni trg).Fortunat Bcrgant,who

city or nation than JoZe lPleё nik,a man wilo

paintcd thc Stations of thc(:〕 ross in the church at Stiё na Abbey, was a mastcr of

deieS CaSy dCinitiOn(See bOXed teXtCntided

baroque paining.

Ljublana chapter).

Classicism prevallcd in SIovcnian archi― tecture in the irst half of the 18th century

school of lBoこ idar Jakac and thc brothers

(thc Kazina building in Kongresni trg in

no architect has had a greater llnpact On thcir

Joえ c Pleё nik,Architect Extraordinaire in the

In the 20th century, the exprcssionist

Frmce and Tonc Kdj g"e way to the so― Club Of lndependentS(the panterS

Liubtana,mc■ m"lp劉 on in Rogぶka

C」 lCd

siaina)but aso in the works ofthe painter

Zoran Muζ

Franc Iく avё iё and the Romandc portraits and

Miheliё )and later the sculptors AloJZij

landscapes of Josip Tloininc and Matev乞 Langus.Realisln arrived in the sccond h」 f

Gangl,F.ranc Berneket Jakob SavinSck and LoJze Dolina■ The last two would l=er

Ofthe centurv in the work ofartistslike lvana

create `Inasterpieces'of socialist realisin under llto withoutlosing their credibility or

Kobilca,Jurij Subic andAnЮ n AZbe,butthe mostinlpo■ ant palntcrs ofth■ time were the

iё

,:Maks SedeJ and France

impressionists Rihard Jakopiё ,MatijaJama,

(SOmetimCS)their artiStiC SenSibilitieS. Favourite artists of rcccnt vcars include

Ivan Croh″ 帥d Maq Stemen,who exhib‐ ited togcher in Ljub」 ana in 19∞

Jalez Bernik,Rudi Spanzcl(who designed the t。 lar nOteS in CirCulatiOn)and JoZe

.

・ he turn ofthc ccntury was also the tiine Nouveau) I｀

Tisnik:r,a panter with a very uniquc style

whcn the Secessionist(or A■

frorn lSlovenJ(〕 radec.

architects Mよ

Postrnodernist palnting and sculpture has been inore orless donunated since the 1980s

sFあ imi and lvm Vumik

began changing the facc of iLjubttana (MikloSiё ev Park, Preζ eren monuinent, Cooperative Bank on Miklogiё eva cesta)

by the rnuldrnedia grouP Neue Slowenischc Kunst(NSK)and the ive― member artists' cooperative IRWIN. 「 1lc apogec of folk painting in S10venia I｀

over the past few centunes has bcen the traditiOnd beChiVe panel● α αリ 小 たαたο″昴 ε illustrated withう olk motiお .For more infor―

mation, scc the boxed text entitled The BOards and the Bces in the lRadovuica secdon ofthe(〕 orenJSka chapter

Music l｀

hc conversiOn Of the Slavs to Chlistianity

from thc 8th century brought thc develop― rnent ofchoralsinging_the 01dest Slovenian splritual song dates from 1440-in churches

and rnOnaSteneS.By the end ofthe Middle Ages, secular nlusic had developed to the Saine degreC aS music elsewherc in Europc.

Thc inost impOnant cOmpOser in the late 16th century was JakOb Gallus,who wrOte madrigalS and Choral songs as well as 16

Masses. An outstanding compOscr of Renaissance inusic was lzak Poこ Baroque rnusic had gone out offashiOn by .

J02e面 Snikar,fЮ m Sloveni Gradec,is one of Slovenia's rnostinteresting and Original anists.

thc time the FilharmOnija wtt bunded in

Facts about the Country―

巧ubljana in 1701,and classicistお rms had

become」 lthe rage.3′ :″ ,theirst SIovenian

Opera, was written by Jakob Francisek Zupan in 1780,and Janez Novak composed classicist music for a colmedy wnttn by S10vcnia's irst playwnght, Anton 'IbmaZ

A■ s31

″α (a clay nute), (w。 。den crOss nute),。 滋 ″ι ぶ ′′ ι (IsLian double nute),′ ″s′ ι″たι (reed “ pipeS),JeW'S harp,′ ο″d′ ″jら αIS(eTthenWaC

bass),and braび

(cight― st

ng guitar).Folk

groups and individuals to watch out for includc the Avwniki,Lojzeta Slaka,the

Linhalt.The 19th century Rolnantics like

AIDSki Kvintet lcd bv Oto Pcstncr and the

Bettamin IPavec,Fran Cerbiё and Anton

(:)ypsy band Sukar.

Foerster incorporated traditiond Slovenian

elernents into their nlusic as a way of expressing their nationalisrn. lPerhaps Slovenia's inost well known composer Was

HugOw01l whOwasbom inSlovenj Gradcc in 1860 and died in 1903. SIovenian ntusic between the wars is l)cst

κpκsentedbythe expressionistMar」 KogoJ and the modernist SIavko Osterc.Contem―

Dance Much ofSlovenian dance inds its onginSin tik culture,andお lkdance rヶ ′s,た j′ ′ `s,has “

a long tradition in Slovcnia, including

polkas, circle dances and IIungarian― style czardas. ・ The first ballet group was estab‐ lished in 1918ぉ partoftheLjubljanaOpem and a bdletschoolset up within the National

porary cornposers whose reputations go well

neaに The巧 ub」 ana

beyond the borders of SIovenia include

at the()pera and there's another company in

Primoを

Ramov6,MarJan Kozina,LoJZC

ebiё

and thc ultranlodcrnist Vinko

II′

Globokar,who livcs in Pa

s.(D)pera buffs

Ballet Stin pcttms

Manbor Avant― garde dancc is best exenlplificd by

Bctontanc, an NSK dance company that

wOn't want to miss the chance to hcar MarJana Lipovgek,the country's foremost

nlixcs live rnusic and theatrical elcnlcnts

rnezzo― soprano.

political conlment.In the rock ballet 71カ

Popular music runs the gamut frorn ″∫。″(bestexemplinedby vita Mttriё )andお lk to j2z md techno,but it sIovcnian c′

,α

was punki music in the late 1970s and early 1980s that put Slovcnla on thc wond stage.

The most celebrated groups were Pankrti,

Borghesia and Laibach, and they wcre imitated throughout eastern Europe. C′ 滅bκ h'S

leadet TOmtt HOStnk,died tragi‐

c」 ly in 1983 whcn hc hangcd himself flolm

a kozolcc, thc traditional Slovcnian hayraCk.)

Folk music(ヶ ′ a g′ αsbα )in Slovenia “ has developcd independently fronl other lsλ

forrns of l■ usic over the centuries,and the

c011ectiOn and classincatiOn Of children's

songs, wedding mtrches and fabics set to

nlusic began only in the nationalistic Rornantic pe

od of the 19th century.Tloday

thc lnstituに of Music and Nationd iManu‐ sc

pts(Glasbeno Nな odopisni lnstitut)is

charged with this task. 1｀ raditional f。 lk inStmmentS inClude theル ″われα″ OuttOn

'CαStnnged aCCOrdiOn),Cymb」 Om(a CuriOuS

inStrumCnt played With StiCkS),Zithet zツ

ιgJα

(Called`phySiCd theate'here)With Sharp ′ :"セ `ν `s ″ ″′たι´ 。 力j(た ,memberS Ofthe trOupe ″ ″ lα

rnurder one another and then′ e resu:Tccted. u・

Literature

Christian monks from lreland probably introduced the Latin alphabet to the c`rly Slavs living in Slovenia in the 8th century,

and St Cynl and St Methodius gave thern meir irst transl江 iOns Of thc scriptures a century later

ThC。 ldCSt CXa:1lple OfWri■ en S10VenC(Or any Sl評 iC languttC br hat mattr)iS COn‐ tained in the thrcc F“ れgコ :υ rs(Brf燿 ″sた J `お S′ ο ″ メリ dtting fromな ound 97Q Thcy “ a serinon on sin and penance and contain instructions for general confession.()ral poctry,such asthc semind talc ofLι ′αИ″α lχ

ry,ごαり ′ ,■ OuriShCd thrOughOut thC Middle Ages,butitwastheRelo■ n■ ion that `Fα saw the nrst b。 。 k in slovene,a catcchisin published by P■

lTloを

Trubarin 1550.Aconl―

plete tranSlation Of the Bible by Jur」

Dalmatin followed in 1584,and Adain ]Blohonё published a granl口 mar of Slovene in Latin(wim the evoc■ ive title S′ ακ l竹 れたr

32 Facts aboutthe Country―

Ais

〃ο パ,in the Same yC征 」MOSt eVewthing else“ published until the late 18th ccntury、 vas

ガο′ αれβ ″ α″∫ 滋 ごιb`′ J“ り ,帥 血 h01“ ogy to which PrcSercn condbuじ d,was an

in Latin or German,including Jmez Vajkard Valvasor's iaudatory account of Slovcnia, みιD′ cカ ッqFCα ′ ′ o(1689). 7カ ο′ フ q′ ′

impOnant literaょ

I‐

"jο `G′ Thc Enlightcnlncnt and dlc rcforins ofthc labsburg rulcrs Mana・ I.heresa and Joscph

II raiscd thc educational and gcncral cultural

`κ

y and natiOndist fOrumin

thc 1830s and 1840s. 11l the latter half ofthe 19th century,F.ran

evstik(1831-87)brought thc writing and intcrprctation of oral folk talcs to ncw pα ″ (See boXed heightSい ith hiS iイ αrrj″ κ″ l′

lcvcl of the Slovcnian nation. In largc part duc tO thc support and Philanthropy ofBaron Ziga Zois(1747‐ 1819),Slovcnia gained its

tcxt cnitlcd iBig Men for Big′ 111■ es in the NotranJSka chaptcr),but it was Josip Juに iё

irst dramatist(Anton Tomaを Linhall),poet

ο″′″(D′ Sαj nOVel in S10Vene,τZ′ fθ r力 βろ B″α′ ;1866).Thc lynca pocts Simon Jenko

(V」 Cnun (Jerne」

Vodnik)and modern grammttian

Kopitar)江 this tiinc.But it was

′ hen Slovcnian durlng thc Rornantic pcrlodヽ ヽ literaturc truly came of agc.This period pro―

(1844‐ 81)who publishcd thc irstfulHength

(1835-69)and Silnon(Grcgorё

iё

(1844-

1906)wrotc orlginal and powerful verse.

′ rhe period fronl the turn of thc 20th

duced the nation's greatest poet France

century up to WII is dorninated by two

Pregercn (see bOxcd tcxt entitled Francc ― Pregeren:A Poct for the Nation).Thc Cα ″

rnen、 vho single― handcdly introduccd nlod―

ernism into Slovenian literature: the poet

Facts aboutthe Country― Religion 33 C)ton Zupanё iё (1878-1949)and the novelist

Stupica.′ rhe

and playwright lvan Cankπ (1876-1918).

nlodernisni to Slovenian■

The latter has been callcd`thc outstanding nlastcr of Slovenian prose'and his works, nOtあ ly動 〃 げ 0“ ′物 の げ ν り

■ed in tte work of Bo蒟 an Hladnよ rP′ `sッ D`る′ or D4れ ε ″ ″ ′ れ,1961)and `RααrЙ Aッ ′ M痢 琵 Кuopё iё `′ Vα Pα ο ″み or μ Pj″ OIれ И ″ ″gs q′ Papι 4 1967).Since the 1970s,

`1物 `お た ′ ′ ″ `,md動 `Bα οJ′ ″イ 」 ″ 降 の αれ″″JS Rjgみ “な (″ Jαρι Aヶ “ g。 ッ ′ αPraッ たα,hnucnced a genentiOn Of ′:7ι Pο ″ο r″ ぶα να

1960s brought a new wave of 1■ l

bcst exenlpli‐

the rnost popular fill■ s in Slovenia like

evcrywherc have bcen those dealing with

young writers. Slovenian litcraturc imlnediately before and a■er WWII wasin■ uenced by socialist

cnme ald suspense and comedies(eg Franci Slak's″ グοグ ε ′or irl力 ′,FI`′ ο″s,1987;Jure `′ PervanJe's Dο κ ″ca」 ″Ⅳ ′″ Or 7b`力

realis■ l and the Partisan struggle as exempli‐

L:,″

fied in the novels of｀ vloranc Preを ihov (1893-1950)and thc pocms by Matej Bor (1913-),but since then ISlovenia llas tended to follow wcstcm European literary trends:

1991). More recent successes ψ

rS,Eた

ψ ″ιS(Eχ ′″ SS,

lgor Sterk,カ セ屁οg by Mitja Milavec md Andtt Koも よ 'sO″ な′ グ 」l `ち

released in 1997.

′

garde tcchniques include I)rago (1931‐ ),Andrej IIieng(1925‐

ο′s,Sο ′ み,

lole than 35%of cinemas around thc country though sonle

」amun(1%11), aこ 948‐ ),Tomル も

jetan〕Koviё К 【 ″

(:デ

“ Eた haVe been

have led to the closurc of■

teinporary writers and poets using

and Rudi Scligo(1935‐

lα

1)eclining audiencc ngures in thc 199os

(thc nOvcls Of Vitolnil Zupan,1914-87,and the drama ofGЮ gor Strnζ a,1930-87).Con― avante‐

iο

`′ ` ′ ′α″グβι ツο″グ, 1990;and lVinё iヽ logue Anttlovar's Bα ιたαG″ れ αJ“ g or G″ α″′″α

Eχ′″駅 り by

latC CXp“ SS10niSm,Symb01lSm(the pOetry Of Edvttd Kocbek,1904‐ 81)aldcxistentidism

Janё

:ι

)

l15 renlain open. rhe best place to see Slovenian■ 1lns is the ICinoteka(● 061-311 391)at Mi鳳 oHё cvaccsta 38 in Liubljana.A

Festival of Slovcnian Filln is hcld in

).

Polloroを in March. Fi:rn

Slovenia、 vas neverく )n the cutting edge of ■laking as werc sorne of thc cther КpubliCS(eg Croatia)in the fOrmer WugOSI″ via,but it still managed to produce about a dozcn full-length features annually,somc of filin―

which―

like Joを e

Gde'sκ ιε(1951)and

`たj′ α″ ″ツ げ (均 ′ “ awads. P′ α οι,1955)― won intem■ iond ・Iloday that nuinber has dropped to about

Francc Stiglic's Dο

JJ″

three per year.Indeed,the panoply offeature alms produced in Slovene iom■ he irst ry

RELiG:ON Although Protestantism gaincd a vcry strong foothold in Slovenia in the 16th century,the

mttorlty ofSlovenes today― just undcr72% ―identi themseives as Rolnan Ca山 olic.An 征cmishop(cwently Alojzij Sug紅 )sits in 巧ublmaandtherearcbishop

csatM

bor

and Koper C)ther religious conllnunities in S10venia

include Eastem Orthodox Christians(2.4%),

Muslims(1%)and Protestants(1%).Most κ´ αケι S″ Z′ α わ″gα Orル ЙιRω J″ ′″′ Protestants belong to the Evangelical “ Gο ′ グ 力ο ′りin 1931 until 1998 numbers (Lumeran)chuК h based in Murska Sobota only `″ around“140. in Pckmu]e. `ι

Jcws have playcd a very rnlnor rolc in

(I)nly two flllns wcre prOduced in SIovenia

between the wars and after WI and intO

Slovenla since they wcrc first banished fron■ the tcrritory in the 15th ccntury.Although thc

the 1950s Slovenian filnltended to fOcus On

sutteCtS like the PartiSan Struggle―

eg

StigliC'S Nα Sν ο ′″″ケJ`0″ 0“ rI′ ″グ ゾ ,

jο ″ 1948)and AたcJα , 1960)by Jane Kavё iё ―and life arnong the SIovcnian bour‐ `Ac′

geoisic undcr thc Austro― Hunganan Empre αGο ψοグαor Pa″ s,1953)byBolan μα″ `れ

“

rcinains ofa synagogue still stand in Maribor

and there was one in Ljubliana until WII, .。

tcnlple nlnctions in slovcnia today.The

rabbi from Zagreb occasiondly holds ser_

Vicesお r the iny community in LJubtana when thcrc is a minyan.

34 Facts aboutthe Country-1′ anguagc As in lnost of cen廿 」 and wcstern Europe

Italian is really Only useful in lPrilmorska

today,■)ligion doesn't appe`r to be rnuch of an issue ln Slovenia,particularly ainong the

and sindl parts ofNb“ anJska.Gcnnan,once

young,and churches are seldom rnore than halifull outside the inost important holy

spoken mO鈍 ly by older people,esICCi」 ly in KoroSka,Stterska and no■ hem Gore■ ska.

days like Easter,Ch

Thcre may bc fewerspeakers ofEnglish than

stinas and the Assuinp‐

the language of education and the elite,is

tion of Mary(15 August).One Slovenian

Gerinan overdl,but it is deinitely the pre‐

friend's only lnerllory of ever having been into a church as a child was when his granny

ferred language of the young,with 84%of

brOught him tO SCe the♭ οをJd″ (CtChe)OnC ChnStmaS・

`Jα

S′

JC`

LANGUAGE

di studcnts claming somc knowledgc ofit. Most speak English very well indeed,even

if they pepper their speech with `SIovenglish'siang like`full cool',lmeaning

`trendy'or`fashonable'.

The French novclist Ch:Π les Nodier(1780-

T'he fact that you win rarely have diffi_

1844),who lived and worked in珂 ublana bracoupleofyearshthcearly 19thcentu7, once wrote that Slovenia was like `an Academy ofノ ヽ■s and Sciences'because of

culty in makng yourselfunderstood and山 誠

the pcople's flalr for sPCaking foreign lan―

you will probably nevcr `need' Slovene shouldn't stop yOu froln letanling a few words and phrases of■ lis rich and wonderiLll language. More than anything else,Slovene has kept

guages.Monsieur Nodier would be happy to know that Slovenci still have that talent 」mosttwo centuncs down the tack.

the S10Venian natiOn `れ α οグリaliVC and “ ofdollllna‐ united`I,aculture over centuncs

Virtually cveryonc in Slovenia speaks at least one othcr language.In the 1991 census,

tion andbmtaity.And desplte dl attemptsto destoy itfl・ omoutside,Slovenc isvery inuch

88%sad they knew Croadan ald Scrbian,

alive,dynalmc and organlc.Any effort on your part to speak it w■ l bc rewaded one

459る

GerFnan, 37% were conversant in

English and 17%spoke ltalian.But those igures require fu■ her exPlanadon.

hundred― fold(see tte Language Guide atthe baCk Ofthe b00k).

Facts for the Visitor PLANNING Whento Go

Summer)fOrthe mOuntanS at night,pCrhapS,

Snow can linger in the nlountalns as late as

unless you plan to do sorne serious lllking or

June,but spring(Apnland May)is a great

otller sP。

and an unlbrella in the spring or autunln―

■・In general, Sloveniι ビl society dreSSeS CaSually(thOugh a bit SInarter in

tiinc to bc in the lowlands and valleys of Slovenia when cvcrytling is fresh and in blossom.(Apni can be a bit wetthough.)In July and August, hotel rates arc increased

Liubuanathanintheprovinces)when it gocs out on the town. A swinlsuit for the beach,pool or nllxed― SeX therm」 SpaS(nOt dWayS Equlred)and a

and thcrc will bc lots oftounsも ,cslκ Cially On the COaSt・ SCF)tCmber is an excellent month

towcl and thongs(nip_■ Ops)fOr inouldy

to visit as the days are long and the weatller

showcrs in hostels and caIIlping grounds are

warm,the surniner ciK)wds win have vanュ shed and it'sthe best ime for hiking andclimbing.

mandatory.Soap,toothPaste and toilet paper

ae readily obtanable dmost alywhere as actanponsand condoms,both locally inade

Octoberald Novembercanbe min"butwintr (DccembertolMach)is br skicrs.Remem‐

and iinpoied. A sleeping sheet with pllow cover(casc)

bet though,that Slovenian school kids have

their christmas hOlidays in Deceinber/

is a good idca if you plan to stay in hostels

January and a week off in carly Febmary.

orcollcge donlntories.Apadlock is usef01to

The slopcs could be heaving atthose tiines.

secure your hostel locker A Swiss Army

Maps

knife is helpnll for all so■ s of things.Make su薫〕it includes such essentials`厖 l a bottle

The Geodesic lnsitute of Slovenia(Geo―

opener and strong corkscrew!

C)nc peculiarity here is that, while

Zttod Slovenijc;GZS),the count・ y's pnncipal lnap― inaldng coinpany, produccs dcts

nttion」 (1:3α ),CЮ O),regional(1:50,000) and topograp c」 maps Ю the entit country

Slovencs drillk lots of herbal teas,black tea is ha・ d to find.Bnng along a cup,coil water heaじ r and tca bags and makc your own

sc」 e sheets)as well as ciサ (641:50,∝ Ю― planslts Цublmam叩 (1:20,(XЮ ;850 SIつ

cuppa. C)thcr optional itcms include a compass

is excellent. 1｀

he Alpine Association of S10Venia(PIaninSka ZVeZa S10Venle;PZS)

(tO help Onent yOurSelfin the in.OuntainS and

produces sorne 3()dillicrenthikinginaps with

adaptcr plug for clcctllcal apphances, sun‐

scales as largc as l:25,000.

glaSSeS, a feW C10theS pegS(pinS)and

If you can affod it,he 385-page Ar′

while driving), a nashlight(torch), an

asげ

,ο ッ ね (Zalottba Mladinska KnJiga& `″ GZS)is the most complete in the land,with l()91:50,∝ Ю― sc」 e maps ofぬ e countW and a dozen town plans.A lot nlore user― fricndly, though, is the ル を′ ′ たJA′ ′ as zα ル リz″ ノ たιJ″ A″ αSル ″νο′ ο′ ISrS&ル αツー 々ル加jた イ Lα

premoistened towelettes or a laヽ ge cotton handkerchief that you can sOak in 3ountains alld use to cool off while tounng towns and cities in the hot surniner months.And don't forget sunblock― even lllthe cooler months. Those rays in the mountains can be ierce.

SUGGESTED ITINERARIES

Jι rsI Petrol;2520 SIT)with two dozen `ι l:250,000 11lotoring maps,town plans and

I])cpcnding on thc length of your stay,you

practical tips.

nught want to see and do the following in

`′

Slovenia:

Whatto Bring You don't have to rernernbcr any particular itemS Of C10thing― a Warm SWeater(eVen in

Two days

Ⅵsit 35

LJubljana

36 Facts for the Visitor― IIighlights Onc wcek Visit LJubljana,Blcd and Bohinj Or Sk∝ Cavcs and Pran

ian

Two wceks Visit Liubliana,Bled,Bohin」

,SOё a Valley,

an Caves,Piran and Ptuj Sk(К 」

k。 la

and

the ones whcl℃ vou'1l get a rcal fccl for the past― are LJuЬ ljana,‐ Pt可 ,Sko巧 a Loka,

Radovijica,Piran md Kranj.

10ka・

Onder3

Ylou won'tsoon forgetthe VrSiё

Historic Towns

Pass and the

Julian Alps in Trttlav Nalond Park,the SkocjmCaves,血 e VintgTGorge neな Bled,

the up"rs"inja vaney in stttcska,the Soё a River and the(Tnle or Origind)Karst

rcglon.

Museums ■ 1lc fOnOwing muscums stald Out nOtjust for what thcy contain but for how they displtt it:the Dolcniska Museum in Novo Mcsto,the PosavJe lMuscum in BreZice,the

Blacksmith Museum in K」 opa,the lMunici―

Pal Miuseum in ldrija,the Saltworks

Museum in Seё ov」 e,the Bcekceping

Museum in Radovljica,the Kobarid Muscum and,in LJubljana,the Musmm of Modern History and thc Slovenian Ethno‐ graphic Museurn.

TOuRiSTINFORMバT10N LocarTlourist Offices ・ The S10Venian■ Ou St B。 田 d(CenterZa PrO‐

mocijo Turizma Slovenije; CPTS; ● 061‐ 189 1840;fax 061-189 1841;lucka [email protected]), in the WOrid

Trade Centre a Dunaiska cesta 160 in 町ubtana,iS the umbrella OrganiSaionお r tourist ofices in Slovenia and produces bro―

chures and pamphlets.Itcal handle rcqucsts for inforinalon in writing or you can check OutitS pagC On thC IntemCt(SeC OnlinC SCr― ViCeS Iater in ttiS Chapter).

Castles SIovenia was once kno、 vn asthe`country of castles'and countcd over l()00,but wars and

developinent have taken care of nlost of mcm.ofthc κmaining ones,慟 e most dra_ matiC(Open tO the publiC and in Valγ ing St■ CS Of repair)are Bled C“ tle,P“ diama

Castle ncar Postana,Ljubliana Castle, Sneを nik Castle in Notranjska,BogenSperk

Castle in Doleniska,Podsreda Castie in the

KozJansko region of Staeska,Celje Cぉ

near Ribnica and the Church ofthe Annun‐ ciatiOn at cmgrOb nearも Natura1 11′

H:GHLIGHTS Thc most tttractivc cities ald towns―

at PtuJska Gora near PtuJ, thc Chaptcr Church of StiNicholas in Novo Mesto,the ChuК h of the Assumplon at Nova Stifta

tle

and Ptuj Castle.For morc inお rmation contact thc Association of Castics in S10Venia(SkupnOSt(:〕 radOV na S10VenSkenl; ● 062-773145;fax 062‐ 771618),Na gradu

・ I'hc best office for face― to‐ face inforrna― tion in slovenia― bar none― is ttc I」 ubuana Touristlnfonnation Cente cIC;● 061-133 0111;fax 061‐ 1330244)in ttubjana.The staff know`ν フ″れg about the capitd and `′ a lot about Slovcnia.There ae dso llCsin

Bled,BohinJ,KranJska Cora,Maribor, Po■ oroを and Ptuj and sinaller,indepcndent or corninunity― r1ln offices in other cities and

towns. If the place you're visiting dOesn't have one,seek assistance at a branch Of one

of the big travcl agencies(eg Kompas,

Emona GlobЮ ur or Slovcnlatu

st)or from

hotel or nluscum staff.

l,2250 PtuJ・

Travel Agencies

Churches

The head OfiCeS(all in ttubljana,Wheκ the telephone code is 061)of SIovenia's mOst

'I'he following ι re a half― dozen ofSlovenia's

irnpo■ ant travel agcncics appear below.For

nlost beautiful houses of worship: the

the addresses and tclcphone nurnbers of

Church of St John thc Baptist at BohinJ,the

brmch omces in巧 ubljana and the pЮ

ChurCh Of the H01y Trinity a HrЖ tOvte (P morska),the ChuК h ofthc Mttin Mary

inces, scc the lnfollnation sections undcr each town or city.

V―

Fa■ s fOr the visitOr― Tounstln3oHnation 37 Emona(〕 lobtour (●

GerΠlany

1401(M4:fax 441 325),も mainskacぃ ta 130

(●

Komptt Holdays (●

1252065;fax 219 111),Slovcnska cesta 36

(● 069‐

Kompas TШ i2ん m (●

(●

11。

0104140903),Nieuwehaven 106,301l VT Rottedam (●

South Afrlca

st Boad inaintains tounst

(●

wing eight countries:

(●

0222-7154o10),HiltOn Ccnte■ Hauptstrasse 2,1030 Vienna Gernlany

011-8848555),NOrwich Towers,3ノ F, 13

Frcdinal Dnvc,Sandton,Johannesblrg Spaln

Aus● la (■

041-5286545),San Marco 1497,30124

Nethenands

ices&Agencies Abroad

llle Slovenial Tou

93-2466777),Calle Valencia 414, Esc―

derecha,1/2a,08013 1Blarcclona SWit2E」 and

Landstasser

(●

041-4108515),St I″ odeg"str"se 2,α Xκ

Luceme

29161202),Maximilliansplat2 12a, 80333 Mu ぬ Hungary (● 089‐

(■

329 trasse 6ノ VI,α 〕

Vemce

1315055:fax 328 8{“ ),S10vcnska cesta 58

ofaces in the f。

233024/6),Mainlus、

■」y

1327127:fax 319 888),hattkova ulica 4

￢ourist O“

se 40,14109

Frankfu■

Slovcnijatunst (■

030-80602780),Glienickerst“

Be■ in

USA

(● 954‐ 77192α )),2826E`st CoinilerciaI BIvd, 33308 Fo■ Lauderdalc,■ ′

1-1568223),Gcl16rthegy utca28,1013 Bud●

pcst ltaly

20124 Milan

Tourist pubilcations The cIIソrs and Other OfEces prOduce nlany

Ndhcrlands&Bdgium

brochures, pamphlets and booklcts in

(■

0229511187),Ⅵ

a Lazaro Pal″ zi 2aЛ Π ,

0118-635 790),(]oudent 10-13, 4330 GC: Middelburg (■

Switzerland

UK

(●

cnstrasse 54,8001 Zt 01-2126394),Lё 、′

(●

0171-3723767),2 Canicld Place,London

ch

NW63BT

USA

(●

212-3589686),345 East 12山

St Ncw York,

NY 10003

English,solme ofthenl oveny colouJbl and `sing_song', 。thers quite uscnll and wcll wntten.1｀ he■ tlcs below arc gcne熙 」 ones; mOre SFЮCidised publications ald loc」 ones appear under other headings in this chapter orin the lnfolllnation secions foreach town.

E"油

α b饉

α

woL_鮨

In addition, Kornpas has represcntative ofices in inany cities worldwide,including:

07-38314400),323 Boundaly St,Spnng Hill, 4(Ю O Queensland (●

Canda 514-9384041),40α )Stc― Cahcnne St West, Suitc 535,MOnteal,Quc H3Z 2Z3 Croada (● 052-4511(Ю ),Obda Maζ ala nta 16,51ZИ 0 (●

Porcc Czech Republic

24235070),UI Rytirska 2641,1lα Ю

Prague I

Francc (1●

0153922780),14 Ruc dcla Sourcc,75016

Paris

●」●価 口 田dω ぱ

2“ 4"″

t,日

鮨

=o

.

勁 W′ た .υt● ￨=ン

"“

tШ 〔 口, N,"、 と輻 コ ∞証 `, “ 血 o鴫 口 轟“d“ “.m脳 L山 ,い“Ш 邸 ,,鴨 “ , me`● o

Austr」 ia

(● 02‐

1●

A● "イ ●」 Ii`[of● v● “tything l,■ pp。 口。3iュ `S′ an c。 ■ 。口 ‐ ょ :u v」 ぃ。 `o■

i""Sb“

“ ●R力。わ。 あ 'S′ "Ⅲ 瑯 “ o“ 叫 ba“ F“ "n “"m」 d薇 o,t,v嗜 ■ “ ,`峰 “ 鯰 ″″ 1■ S″ "″ V “ 』 ““ ●り ,。 ■ ,「 。f"∞ 口m“ ■lm(￨。 :,暉 ● 10,p,い ●l ,,。 。J]“ bLmix、 α "■ :``"S:α 鮨 "PS′ ■ rlp● m`"爛 “ 屁● Ⅲ ご tL■ ● m雌 鶴 un" “ 0● “」鮨 錮呼 mB口 ""『 "戯 ス″.ァ ッ ‖ s疇り si″ ″n,ス ●, “,o● `滅 ".`,.:た ■,,` “l,も hure d● ,iltl“ and =`!ibo=」 `ol■ 画 bμ∞●皿面 m証 b“ u =omo 47」 ―m■ Kn¨ k,G∝ =o "`gmm=m ttmi■ lり ,,● ha節 ‖m Ro3趨 b Sldm Eお

D面

[■

.・

38 FaCtS fOr the Visitor― Sわ ッ

Visas&Documents

″″′ a′ 腕 R′ ∫ ο″,

“ panlphlct cOvcrs all aspects of spa tourisrn 11lis

`″

in Slovenia,with a lisdng oF 16 resons,thcir facilities and prices.

Sわ ツ た ι ″ 「 Ig“ ″S `え Every statisuc yOu inay― Or inay not― necd tO know about S10venia― frOnt unenlploynlentrates to how nluch the average Farlily spends On bread.

Ⅵ 々′ cο ″θ′ οSわ ッ ′ ″滋 A colourful introduction to dlc country and its 誠 tractions.

Ca∫ ′ セ∫j″

Sι

ον

Ifyou wanttO stay in Slovenialongerthan three rnonths,the easiestthing to do is siinply

CrOSS the bOrder into ltaly or Austia and retunl.C)therwise you will have to apply for a teinpOrar)′ reSidcnce pern■ t atthe Forcign‐

erS Oficc(Urad za Tujce;● 061‐ 1310166) in hc Krcsijabuilding at Adamiё

jα

`″ Castles,Palaccs and mansions¨

If yOu are Staying elSCWhele(Cg With endS),yOur hOStiS Supposed to take care ofthis fOr yOu within three days. night・

relatiVeS Or f

Юss

ttccount7・

(E〕

ViSAS&DOCUMENTS Passport Most cveryone entering S10venia inust have a Valid paSSpOrt,ぬ ough citizens of thc EU

‐ LundЮ vo

nめ reあ e2in巧 ublma. ontact any S10venian enibassy,consul―

ate or tourist oficc abrOad for any recent changes in the above rcgulatiOns.Tlle staff at any branch ofAdria Airways,the Sloven― ian national canlict should also bc ablc tO

and Switzerland need only produce thcir

hclp.1lor addresses,sec Arin the(〕 etting

natiOnal identity Card On aFnVal fOr StayS Of

TheК &Away chapte■

up to 30 days.It's a good idea tO carl)′

your

passpo■ or othcr idendication at all dmes.

Photocopies

・ he hassles brought on by 10sing your pass― I｀

Visas Citizens of Austrdia,Calada,Israel,Japal,

port can be cOnsiderably reduced ifyOu have a record ofits nunaber and issuc date,orcven

New Zcdand and thc USA do not requirc

better, photocopics Of the rclevant data

visas for stays of up to 90 days.Those who dO require Visas(including South A■ ican

pages.A photocopy of your bilth certincate

paSSpOrt h01derS at the dme Of W dng)C`m get them at any Of the Slovenian enlbassics or consulates listed below fOr up to 90 days.

'I'hey cost l)M50(or equivalent),and you

can also bc useful.

Also add the send nunlbers of your ttav― elleβ

cheques(crOss them Or as you cぉ h

山em)and phOtOCOpieS of your cЮ dit cads, alrlne ticket and Other travel docuinents.

rllay have to shOw a return or onward dcket.

Keep di this clnergency inatend separate

Photographs a責〕nOtI・ equircd.

fronl your passpon,chequcs and cash,and

Visas ae dso avalable a incmatiOnd bOrder CЮ Ssings(see Car&Motorcycle in the Getting The“ &Away chapter)and at Bmk dゃ o威 nearLJublana There they cost ｀ 3500 SI■ and,again,photos are not neces― STy.Visas can also be acquired on iams,but you may haveto gct Offand qucuc,in w ch CaSC yOu cOuld lniss your Onwa・ d connec― tion.If you do plan tO enter Slovenia by rail,

lcaveextracopies with soineoneyou can rcly

On back home.Add sorne ernergency lnoney (USS50 in cぉ h,say)tO ths∞ paate stぉ h郎 Well.Ifyou do 10se your passport,nOdfy the police llninediately to get a stateinent,and COntact your nearest consulate.

Traveiinsurance

itis strongly advised that yOu Organise your

A travelinsurancc policy tO cOvcr theft,loss and inedical prOblems is a nlust,sO cOnsider

visa in advance at a Slovenian embassy or

thiS befOre yOu leave home. Rernenlber,

consulate.

Yiour hotel,hostel,canp site or pnvate roo■ l aTanged through an agency willrcgis‐

tcr your namc and address with the

however, that soine pOlicies specincally exclude`dangerOus activities'such as skiing,

mountaneenng or cvcn trck

ng.

Ylourpolicy should dsocOvercallcella●

muniCip」 gOVernmCnt(ο らd′″αりOffiCe aS

on

Or delayS in yOur traVel arrangennentS.(11う

]Dquired by law;that's why they have to takc your passp。 ■ away― at least for the irst

。u

cOuld fall ser10usly illtwo daysbeforc depar_

ture,fOr eXannple.)COVer depends on your

Facts for the Visitor―

insurancc and type of a1lrline ticket,so ask

both your insurcr and your ticket― issuing agency to cxplain where you stand. llickct 10ss is also covercd by travcl insurancc. Paying lor your arline ticket with a crcdit ca・d

oien provides limlted tavel accident

insurance,and yく )u may be ablc to reclainl thc Payment if the operator doesn't deliver 11l the UK,for instance,institutions issuing cedit c=ds are κqurcd by law Ю reimburse

cOnsumcrs if a company goes into liquida‐ tion and thc arnount in contcndon is lnore than UK￡ 100.AskyourcreditcardcOmpany wh■ it's prepaed Ю covcr

Embassies 39

stylc card with yOur photograph,which pro― vides discounts on sorne fonns of transpo:11 and cheap or free adnlission tol■ luscums, sights and even illns.If you'1で )aged undcr

26 but not a student, you can apply for a G025 card issued by the Fedcraion oflntcr

national Youth Trave1 0rganisations ∈'IYTO),wich givcs much the sanle dis― cOunts and benents as an ISIC.The Erazein

backpacker travel agency(1日 '061-1331076) 江 Trub切 cva ccsta 7 in巧 ubuma sens both

ISIC cards(8α )SIT)and G025 cards(7(Ю SIT).

EMBASSIES

Driving Licence&Pernnits

Siovenian EInbassies Abroad

lfyOu dOn't h01d a Europcan dnving licence

ln addition to the ernbassies and general consulatcs lstedherc,Slovenlahas honorary

andplan to d

ve in Slovenia,Obtain an lntcr―

national Driving Permit'om your loc」

cOnsuls in Sydncy,Austrdia(●

02‐ 9314

you lcave― yOu'1l need a passport photo and a valid ′ hey are usually ineXpensive and llcence. 「

5116),and in clcveland,Ohio(●

216‐ 589

9220)and Venice,CdifOmia(●

310‐

autol■ obile associadon belol℃

valid for one ycar only.

Calmping Card internationa:

Your local autornobile association also issues the Canlping Card lntcrnational (ccI),which is bascaly a caI〕 flping grOund ID.'These cards are also avallable fronl your 10cal canlping federaion,and soinetilmes on the spot at canlping grounds.・ hey incorpo― I・

party insurance for danlage you nlay causc, and sorne canlping groundS in

rate third‐

s10vcnia Offer discounts of 5 to l10%if you sign in with one.

Hoste:Card No hostels in SIovenia require that you be a

Aust」 ia (● 06-2434830),Advalce Ba,lk Centrc,Level 6,(■ )Marcus CI″ k St,CanbCrra,ACT2α )1 Austria

(222-5861307),Nibelungcng`sse 13,1010 ヽ 4enna (●

Belgiuin (■

613-5655781),150 Metc」 fc St,Suite 2101, Cttawa,Ont K2P IPl (●

Croatia (● 01‐

(●

18 and 26,1800 SIT forthose over 26).

Student&Vouth Cards The inOst useful ofthese is the lnternaional

student ldentity cald(ISIC),a plastic ID―

02-2431 5106),POd Hradbami 15, 16(XЮ

Prague 6 France (●

01 47556590),21 Ruc Bouquet dc

Longchalmp,75016 Paris

d.Mladi Turist(● 061-1259260),江

Of the S10venian lkiouth 11lostel Association ald sells hOsd cads(8∞ SITお r■ose under s of age,1200 SITうor thosc bctween 18 yel電・

6121503),Savska ccsta 41■ X,lⅨ XЮ

Zagrcb Czech Republic

sonlctinles charge a littlc less if you have a

SdcndrOva ulica4 in Цubtana,is the ofice

02-6469099),AveLOuisc 179,1050Brusscis

Canada

hostelling association lncrnber, but thcy ca・

392

5820)in the USA.

(●

0388366025),40A116e dc la RoberSau,

67(Ю O Str¨ bourg

Gcnnany (● 0228-858031),Sicgilcdstassc 28,53179 Bonn 2 (●

089-5439819),Lindwurin Strasse 10,8(I)45

Munich Hungary (●

1‐

3259202),C"ppk6 utca 68,1025 Budapcst

lt」 y (● 06-808 1272),Via Ludovico Pisano 10, 00197 Rolnc

40 Facts for the Visitor―

Customs

Russla

095-2090203),Ui Chehova 14, 103(X)6

(■

Moscow Sp

n

91-4416893),Cane Hennanos Bccquer 7‐ 2, Madrid Switzeriand (● 031-3124418),Schwaneng6se 9ノ 11,3011 (●

28〔 X)6

Bcrn

UK

017卜 4957775),Suite One,Cavendish COun, 11-15 Vriginorc St,London WiH 9LA

(●

USA

(● 202-6675363),1525 New Halnpshi“ :Ave NW,Washington,DC 2(I)36

Forelgn Erribassies&Consulates in Siovenia Selected countrics with representation in 町 ublana― either full embЖ sies or consu_ latc holdovers frorn pre― independence days ―appear below.If telephoning from outside the capit」 but sill wihin S10venia,remem― berto di」 061■ rst.

CuSTOMS Tlravellers can bring in thc usual personal effects,a cOuple Of canleras and electrOnic

goods for their own use, 200 cigarettes, a gcnerous 4L of sPints but only lL of wine (κ membe■ ViniCulturc is big business hec).

he import or export of rnore than 300,000 SIT in Slovcnian tolars or sccurides without

1｀

pcrnussion fronl thc Bank of Slovenia is forbidden. ([:ustomsinspectiOns atinostbOrdcr crOss_

ings and lBrniki airpOrt are cursory or nonexistent and visiton,nccd only make an oral declaration.Howevet oficers are rather stict about enforcing laws rcgarding pets,

and you may havc to turn around―

as I

almost had to once― if Fido's(or Pussy's) papers aren't in orde■ Basically, a rabies Vaccinatlon certiicatc(in iEnglish,(〕 erntan

Or ltaLan if yOu Can't manage SIOVene)muSt be atleast 30 days old but no older than six

months.Aveterinanan's ccrtincaじ Of hcdth must bc no inore than 10 days old.

Austdia 1254252),Trg Rcpublikc 3Ⅸ II

(●

Austrla

17907∞ ),Dunajska

(●

Bosnia―

Hercegovina

cesta 51

(●

1324042),Liko:“ rjeva ulica 6

(●

1303570),MikloSiccva cesta 19

Canada CЮ aia 1257287),Gmber」 cvo nお rcあ c6

(●

Ca)ch Republic (● 339257),Rihar」 CVa ulica l

Frm∝

MONEY Currency

′ he Slovenian t。 lar, abbreviated SIT aftcr the internaiOnd curencyく 。ding system,is I・

a relatively new curency with a distin‐ guiShCd pedigrCC (See bOXed teXt entitled The Almlghty Tola).In theory the t。 1霞 is divided int。 loo stOunov, but nowadays yOu'H Come across only the 50 stotin versiOn

(■ 1264525),Bar」 anska cesta l Cernlany (● 216166),Preζ emova cesta 27

Of theSC WOrthleSS alurninium coins. More

Hungary

t。

(●

1521882),Ulica KOnrada Babnika 5

tion slllce 1992.

(●

1262194),SneiniSka ulica 8

(■

1684454),DunaJska cesm lo4

desigled by thc superb pOstnlodernist ardst Rudi Spanzel c01nes in nine denOnlinations:

Slovcnia's truly colourful paper rnoney

1taly

Mκ donia

Netherlands (● 328978),IDunaJska ccsta 22

Romania (■

268702),1ヽ lan。 こ ka ulica 8

Russia

UK

substantlal brassy cOins Of one tolar, twO 1萄 a and iVe tOltti have been in c“ ula‐

10,20,50, 100,200,500, 1000,5(XX)and lo,ooo srr. They bear the

kenesses of

Slovenian wnters,histonans,a■ ists,scien― tists, architects and lnusicians; gratefully, thcre's not a gcneral am()ng thcm.

(■

1256875),Roを na Dolina,Cesta Ⅱ,No7

(●

1257191),Trg Republikc 3/1V

Trubar(1508-86),mc Protstant“ おriner

(●

301485),PraZakova ulica 4

the hstorim and geographcr Jmez Vajkad

USA

11le 10 SI「 nOに bcarsthc po■ rat OfPrllnoを

and tranSlato■ whilc the 20 SIT one pOrttays

Facts for the Visitor―

V」 v`バ or(1641-93).Thc 50 SIT notc fc■ urcs

Hungary

thc mathcmatician Jurij Vega(1754-1802) ′ he loO SIT bill takes us into thc 20th

ltaly

Japan

century v′ ith the stcrn― faced ilnpressionist

Ncw Zealand

NZ$1

painter Rihard Jakopiё (1869-1943).Jakob

South Africa Switzcrland

I｀

Ganus(1550-91),a composcr who workcd while the aК hitectJOtc Pleё

UK USA

note

mOstly in lPraguc, is On the 200 SI「

nik(1872-1957)

Ft100

Moncy 41 80 SIT

L100

10.60 SIT

¥100 Rand l

127 SIT 93 SIT 33 SIT

UK￡

1

280 SIT

USSI

168 SIT

S,1

l12 SIT

is pOrtraycd on thc 50()SIT onc.′ Thc Ronlan―

tic POet and Patriot Francc IPrclcrcn

Costs ′

(1800-49)is on the 1000 SIT and,in a bo、 ∼ to political corrcctness,a woman― the realist takes painter lvana KObilca(1861-1926)―

Pride Of place On the 5000 SIT note.

´ he I｀

l｀

hOugh priccs havc increascd, with

imported itcins costing as much as they do

in westenl Europe,Slovcnia remains much cheapcr than nearby ltaly and Austna.But

1918), thc wntcr、 vho has becn callcd thc

dOn't expectitto be a bargain basementlikc Hungaぅ ′ ;evcrything costs about 509ら nlore

`Outstanding inastcr of Slovcnian prosc'

hcrc.

Currency:Exchange

houscs,cat atinediurn― priced rcstaurantS and

As thc tolar renlains tied to thc I)eutschmark,

trave1 2nd class on the train or by bus,you shOuld get by on under USS40 a day.′ I'hosc

lo,ooo sIT nOtc fcaturcs lvan Cankar(1876-

If you stay at private roorns or gucst―

it、 vill (〕

continuc to reficct fluctuations in the

ernlan culTency's value for thc foreseeablc

future.

Croatia

Czcch Republic Europcan Union Francc

Gcrnlany

Ｓ  ｕ Ｋ Ａ   Ｋ

Austna Canada

Ｓｈ郵 ａぶ Ａｃ ｎ

Australia

=

110 SIT

= 13.50 SIT

=

117 SIT

= = =

26 SI「 5 SIT 184 SIT

DMl =

28 SIT 94 SIT

EuЮ

l

FFl =

putting up at hostels or college dorrnitories,

Catingわ ″た(meat Or CheeSe‐ fillCd paStnCS) for lunch“ and at self― service restaurants at night、 vill cut costs considcrably.'I｀ ravclling in a little rnore style andcornfort―

occasional

ith bottles of wine,an rcstaurant splurgcs、 ′ active nightlife, snlall hotels/guesthouscs

with`character'_win cost about USS65 a day Prices in shops, at restaurants and train and bus farcs arc always in tolars,but hotcls,

42 Facts for the Visitor―

Money

guesthouses and even camiping grounds ksぉ the bla islinkcd

Clrrus― linked AITヽ 4s throughoutthe country;

o■ en usc Deutschmな

thcir 10caiOns tte nOtcd in thc lnfOrma」

to it.Forthareason,meprices ofmany types of accon■ ■lodation and a few other itcms

scc● ons of the individual towns and cities.

listed in this guide are quoted in I])eutsch― marks.ヽ ,d to pay in the arc never requilて Gcrnlan `ou currcncy though.

Slovenia werc opcn to foreign‐ account holders. Chents of Ⅵ sa, howevet can get

On

At the tiine of wridng,no other′ ヽ lTMs in

cash advances in tolars from any A Ban_ka

branch,MasterCard and iEurocard holders

cash&Travemers cheques

from a Nova Liubjansh Bmka oran SKB

ltis very sinlple to changc cash andtravcllcrs

everywihere in recent years.1ズ)ok:for any of

Banka,and Anlerical Express c cnts froln the tpreSCnt VC in Цublana・ ・I'hough an 】 E,nglish-language option is avallable on the ATM screen,the following are the SIovenian words on the bu■ ons to

″たαOr Dι νた″αB″ gaヴ ″a 血e WOrdSル「′′ ヴα′

push and their English equivalents:

chequcs at banks, post offices, tourist ofaccs,travel agencies and″

`ガ

α′ ガ ,th

“ up Pnvate exchange onncesthat have sprung to guide you. Thcl℃ 's no black rnarkct in Slovcnia,but exchange rates can vary substantially,so it

pays to keep your eyes opcn.Banks takc a commission r′ 昴 ονたJα ,of l%or none at all,

ATヽ4ヽbrds P″ た ,″ 」 セッーCanccl P″ ″ツ ′ た―ColT∝ don S′ ″

Banks o■ en Pay a higherrate fortravellers

cheques tllan lor cash but some private CXChangC Of■ CCS(nOt tl'aVCl agCnCiCS)dO the oppositc,Post ofFiccs arc not thc bcst placcs

to change moncy as somc may only waltto accept cash and when they do take travellers chequcs,it will be at a relatively poor rale. Iヱ

【 ou can casily changc excess t。

1乏 u・

s back

into US dollars or Dcutschmarks(thc eXChangeOfiCeatttub」 ana'Stran Sは 10n

If you have problems with yOurヽ /isa card, cdl■ c Visa Cttd Centre(奮 061-302055) in巧 ub121aorgotoheABanka(● 061-131 1031)at Slovenska cesta 50. 'rhey can't rcplace a lost or stolcn card,butthcy can put a stop― payinent order on it. MasterC,arciノ

Eurocard holders should go to the Nova Цubuanska Ba:よ a(061-1250155)at Trg Republikc 2.

Amencan ExPesscusЮ mers who wantto

iS

a g00d placc);kCCp yOur eXChange reCCiptS just in cぉ e.Slovenia,which had relatively libcral culTency―

″bα ―Chalgyヽ 1( iicaton ′

“ Pο ″ プ ′ セッーEntcr/Conirrn

but tourist ofices,travel agencies,cxchange bureaus and hotels have ones of 3 to 5%.

exchange laws even while

repor[lost or stolen travellers chcqucs Or a Card Or need an advance should contact Atlas

Express(● 061-133 2024 or● 061-131

palt of YugOsiavia,is alsO a good place to

9020)at・ IlrubarJeva cesta 50 in l′ jublJana.

trade one foreign currency for another-1:JS dollars for I)eutschm′ rks, say ― withOut having to have it conve■ led intO tOl′ rs first.

They Cal κplaCe CardS(ぬ Ough yOu must

lrOu can also rcceivc cash d。 1lars or

chequcs.Glcen C,ard holders can get up to

I:)eutschinarks for your travcllers cheques at

USS2(Ю

most banksお ran江 3%commisslo■

d01lar traVelleS ChequeS(USS10(Ю

.

knOW the∝ COuntnumber)and m」 【 erefundS foriostorstolenAnlerican Express ttavellers in C優 lh

01ars and USS300 m US if you

can Wnt a personalchequc).Anyone with a

Credit Cards&ATMs Visa,MasterCard/Euroca.d and American Express credit ca・ ds a・e widely accepted at

Gold Clard can get the tOlar cash equivalcnt of lJS$5(Ⅸ )and USS1500 in dollar cheques.

・ hc advance inust be apprOved by thc hcad I｀

upmarket restaurants, shops, hotels, car‐

of■ ce in Zagreb,but that usually Only takcs

rental firins and sorne travel agencies;

a fcw minutes.Paymentis actu」 ly inade by

Dincr's Club less sO.

thc Nova Ljubljanska Banka On Trg

SKB Banka inaintains inorc than 50

Rcpublke.

Facts for the Visitor―

Guarantc瘤 ld Cheques

Nova助 ubtanskaBankabranches will cぉ h EurOchequcs for up to 25,(XX)SIT (or the CquiV」 ent).

Post&(Conununicadons 43

bank chequc or deposited into your credit‐ card account. Mosttowns and cities lcvy a`tourist tax' on visitors staying the night(100to 300 SI「 per perSOn per night).

￢ ripping&i3argaining Tipping is not really nccessary at Slovenian

rCStaurantS(SOrnC take a 10%SerViCC Charge anyWay),ba・ S Or hOtCIS,but nO One iS going to complain ifyou hand thenl agratuity..Ihxi d vers are alinost ncver tipped,but you can

POST&COMMUNICAT:ONS

・I'he SloVenian poStal SyStern (:P。 こta S10Ven10),reCOgniSed by itS bright yel10W sign,o任 icrs a wide vancty of sein′ ices―

from

round up if you have been happy witll thc

seling staI1lps and tclcphone cards and the now rarc tclephone tokcns to sending faxes

ride or for the sake of convenience.

and changing money.'I'he qucues are never

As in castem Europe,bargaining was not

very long,but you clan avoid atl■ p to the post

pa■ dthe

Ofnce ifyOuJust wantto inall a few postcards by buying StainpS(Zれ 物 1"タ リat Certan neWS―

sむ cct

yellow lettcrboxes on thc street.

the`ione thing under corninunisnl;evcryone

same amountby weightand volurne. Nowadays pcople sclling folk crats on the wi■

and especiamy vendOrs tt flea markcts

stands anddroppingyournlallinto any ofthc

be very Open to haggling.At hotcls

enJoying less than full occupancy during the

Postal Rates

off season,you rnay be able to wangle a

IЮ okお rthe SignSSρ お り′″ P′

″St'力 Pο 飾クた

′ο′ s′ (discOunt)of up to 259そ ♭ “

ι′ if you'rc posting a letter“and S′ で そ ′

Taxes&Refunds

I)oinesic lnail costs 14 SIT forup to 20g and 26 SIT fOr up to 100g.Postcards are 13 SI「 Forintrn江 lond inal,thebase rate is 90 SIT for 20g or iess,186 SIT for up to 100g and 70to 90 SITう or apostc`rd,depending on thc

.

“ ι″ if you've gc)t a parcel. Paた ′ rο ッor」 Fし た

''

り″ A`circuladon tax'c」 led′ あ

`加

′′αッι々

(PD)and nOt unlike Valuc― Added Tax(VAT) cOvcrs the purchasc Of rnost goods and scr― viccs in Slovenia,fi(orn inlported clcctronic equiprnent and top― class hotels(209ろ )and

wine(10%)tO bOoks and carrentas(5%).It is“ s“ α′ Jy includcd in the quoted pnce of goods but not sorlle selぃ ′ ices,so beware.

visitOrs can clam rcfunds on tot」 puト

.

size.′ hen you have to add on the air mful chargc for every 10g:16 SIT for Europe,21 SIT for Nonh America,22 SIT for rnost of Asia and 28 SI「 lor Australasia.An aero― I｀

gram is 120 SIT:

chascs of 12,500 SIr or nlore(not including tobacco products or splriむ

)through Kompas

ヽ4TS,which has ofices at Bmik alrport and some 26 bordcr crossings;they are ina・

ked

Sending&Receiving Mlail Solnething lmailed within Slovenia takes Only a day or two. P'ost to ncighbouring

with an astcnsk(*)inthe CT&MotoК ycle

countlies and ones closc by likc(llerntany

section ofthe Getting There&Away chapte■ There's also an M′ rS cash‐ refund ofice (● 061-1325285)in巧 ubljanano■ h― cast of

should takc about■ lree days.Fbrthe UK,

count on about five days and the USA between a week md 10 days.Mttl to Asia

thctranstationatNeubergelevaulica19.In

and Australiatakes between 10 days and two

order to make thc clalm,you inust have a

weeks.

European llax― Free Shopping(E.I｀ S)cheque corTectly■ lled out by thc salcsperson at the tiinc of purchase and havc it stainped by a S10venian custorns ofEccr atthe bordcr.11lou can then c。 llect your renund_minus cOm_

Poste restante ls sent to the rnaln post ofncein a city or bwn(in the capita,it gOes to thc one at Slovenska ccsta 32,1101巧 ub―

mission― from the nc"by Kompas iMTS

addrcssed cノ o Atlas Express,Trubarjeva cesta 50,1000 LJubljana.

payment Ofice in cash,and have it sent by

lma)whcre itis hcldお r30 dtts.Americm Express cald mcmbers can havc thcir m譴

1

44 Facts for the Visitor―

Books

Tle:ephone

writing,foreigners were still not」 lowed to hirc the cell phones directly, A Slovenian

The casiest― and inost private― place to makc 10ng_distance caus as ,well as send

cOntact may rent Onc fOr you,howevet・ rhe

faxes and telegrarns is fioln a post office or

office is open weckdays fron1 7 aln to 10 pin

telephone centre;the one■ Trg OF nea the train and bus stations in巧 ublanais open 24

and atthe weckend'om 8 am to3 pm.

′ 1lo cali SIovenia from abroad, diそ 」 the

hours a day.Siinply go into onc ofthe bootlls

intemaiond access codc,386(the country

(SOnlCtiinCS yOu haVC tO takC a nuinbCr irSt),

COde fOr S10Venia),thC〔 rCa COdC(minuS the ′ initial zero)and the nunaber I'hcre are 12

■lakc your call and thcn pay the cashiet Soine booths have electronic meters telling

area codes in Slovenia and thesc are Lsted lll

you exactly how much you're spending in

the lnforination section of each city and

tolars as you chat away.

town. Most have thrce digits(eg 061 in

Public telephones on the street never

LJubtana,062 in IManbor)buta tw Te霞

accept coins;they requirc a tclephone card

of Korogka and I:)olenJSka have four digits

″sた α滋 ″′ ,oraphonetokcn rを ″,; `′ `ο “ used less and less these the `ヵ lattcr are bcing

(0602 is thc codc for SlovcnJ(]radec,0608

」l post ofices

br Bκ ttCe).ThC COdeS br mObilC tCIC― phones are 0609 and 041. Slovenian

and some newsstands. IPhone boxes that

telephone nunlbers thenlselves can have

accept cards are rnarked with a `K'or say

bctwecn four and seven digits.

`′

days.Both are available鑢

Phone cards issued by llelekom SIovenile

Whcn rnaking a dornestic call from one ′ rea to another,you inust use thc code..Tb

cost 550/750/1300/2900 SIT for 20ノ 50/ pulses A l∝ 」 two― minut c」 1 1∞/3∞

call abroad,di」 (Ю followcd by the country and area codes and then the nunll)cr

`・

Ilelekarica';tllose taking tokens havc a`Z'.

absorbs one inlpulse,and athrec‐ ■linute call

fronl Slovcnia to neighbouring cotintries win cost about 756 SIT,924 SIT to westrn Europe(including the UK),1596 SIT to the USA or Australia and 2226 Srr to most of

Asia.Rates are 50%cheaper between 7 Pm and 7 ain.

Tokens cOme in threc types.Token A(63 SIT)haS ive ilnpulSeS and iS uSCd 10r bnCf loc」 c」 ls.TOken B,with 25 impulses for 221 S11｀ , can be used for longer local or

domestic c」 ls.Token C costs 442 Srr and

TlelephOne nunlbers yOu may find usenul include:

● 981-gcncral inlol■ lauOn ● 988-dircctory assistance fOr SiOvenia ● 989-intemational drcctOry assistance ―do:ncstic oper″ or '9(Ю g)1-intcrnationd opcrator/cO‖ ●

cct calls

' 95-umc(m Siovene)

B00KS

・ here's I｀

no shol■ age ofbooks on SIovenia but

has 50 inlpulses.II【 ou can only use thc tokcns

the big problenl is price:printed inaterial of

once;they are not returned for latcr use. Slovenian call boxes do nOt display their

any kind is trribly exlК nsivc here.Thc usemlArJas 9ノ s′ 。ッ Jα ,ぉ rexample,wili set

telephonc nuinbers so it's inlpOssible fOr thc

`″ you back a cool 19,32C)SI'II An attractivc,

here are no `country direct' services yet available, and

but by no means iavish,picture book on the history of urban developrnent called,S′ ′ ′ ′ ι_ ′ ″r(3“ ′ r″ rι ′ れ′ ヵ οッιれ′ Lα ″グs "′ ` s′ j″ ′ ″″a″ α S′ οッ ∫た ,COStS (NaS′ ル Sλ α κ″′ `″ `“ a whopping 10,500 SIT.Dι scον 5'ι ον ι″」 a, `′ a136-page papcrback,is priccd at 290()SIT

other paity to phone yOu back.'I｀

most telephone cnedit cards like Spnnt and AT&T stin can't be used lrom slovenla. Mol,」 c telephones are bccolning illcreas―

ingly corninon in Sloveniawith about40,000 SubSCribers by thc end of 1997 and 70%of the country's surfacc covcled.Mobitcl,the only GSM systcnl operatOr in the country, has an Office (1日 '064‐ 363 000)at iBrnlk alrpo■ rcnting phones but,at the time Of

and CVCn lnapS OrSinlple town plans cost 850 to 1200 SIr each.Rcrnernbcr that S10vcnes, who earn a lotless than nlany of us,have to pay thOse prices too. Siovenia is the third S■ lalleSt literature rnarket in Europe and a

Facts for the Visitor―

ictiOn`best scller'in this country means 500 ′ cOpies. rhey still manage tO publish 15 books per 10,000 people a yea」 r, though,

BoOks 45

wnttcn by s10venian expens exanlinc the cOuntry's history, political systcm and ecOnorny both past and present.

againstthe El'average of 10 books. Most of the following books can be pur―

chased tt any branchofMladinskaKnjigaor CanktteVa Za10を ba・ SCe thC InfOrmatiOn section of individud towns for addresscs,

General α (Can― Art&Cu:ture Dお cο νιr S′ οッι″′ karJeva Zaloを ba; 2900 SIT)is not cxclusivcly dcvotcd to thingsそ u・ tistic

Lonely planet Lonely Planet'SSあ ッιれ滋 remains me Only complete guidebook to the COuntry in the English ianguagc and is available in inost 巧 ubbma b00kshops br 3235 SIT.Eα sr`“ ′ ″ ′rrα ″ ″ rrα J E″ ο E“ ο ′ ′ `α `,c`″ “ `and iイ `′ “ E“ ´ ο ′ `,alsO published by Lonely Planet,all contain a brief chapter on Slovenia.

or cul‐

tural but contains Vcry enlightcning, easy― to― read sections on them and is updated

annually. It also intrOduCes the natiOn'S history,geography and key citics and towns. ′″Jα rra′ jri。 ″αJ Arrs& Craメ rS′ ″ S′ οツ (Dolnus;10,500 SΠl)by Edi Berk is a lav― ishly llluslratcd guide to local folk Craft and lore.

Opι ′」 rι ′ ′ α″′a″ E“ ″ The Loncly Planetiイ ι as′ わ οοた contains scctiOnS Of useful ′力´ words and phrases in Slovene.

j″ gsノ ン ι″′ α 0“ .S′ οッ The 80-pagc G″ ′ι′

Gu:deboOks

(Zaloを ba Mladinska iKnJiga; 4400 SIT), availablc in iEnglish,(:〕 errnan and SIoVene,

「 he only other guide dcvoted cxclusivcly to α the country is thc ltalian-languagc S′ οッ ′ I｀

`″

(ClupGuide,Milan)by Aldo Pavan,but it's outdated and not very practical.

Good loca guides to thc whole country are thin on the ground, but the richly α2b“ r'S′ G“ j′ ι(Z」 。こba lllustrated S′ οッ ι `″

Mladinska Knjiga)is a dccent if expcnsive

(11,130 SIT)choice.For something more ′ ′ ″iα A″ G“ 」 specidised,the sJο ν `(MTket‐ ing 013 2ζ rP;8190 SIr)by Nace Sunllis an excellcnt introduction to the architecture of Slovenia.

For ttublana,choosc W冨 お れ 0″ 1`ル ら― ″α″α (Ma・ keting 013 ZTP;63α)SIT)by ″′ たし I`ル bケ α (Can‐ IVan StOpar,P′ `ご グοοr karJeva Zaloを ba; 1300 SIT)or“O“ ′ ″みルらJα れα(DZS;1490 SIT)by sc“ J′ ″κ ′ Spelca Copiё et」

.

e plcnty of these. Picture lBooks Therc`肛 ・

introduccs the country's naturd and culmral hc

tagc with shOts Of daily life.The 244-

み page SJο ツ′″jα ル ο″ ′ (Za10Zba `AJ′ Mladinska KnJiga;10,800 SIT)in English, Gcrmm and Slovcne by M司 疵 Kmccl et al has thc standard `Gosh!' photographs of SIovenia's rnountains,lakes,coastand towns

ツ jα (Can― from on high;n`asyκ sげ S′ ο `″ ka]cva z」 。わ a),also by Kmccl,is a more serlOus look at the count・ y's natur`」 beauty spots.

C)ther flashy coffec‐ tablc books are ′ ″ α′ ′(Z」 。こba Zaklad;8820 sぁ ッ ι″″′A Pο ′

sIT)and S′ ον ″ (Flint River Press,

`れ London;9975 SIT).

vith supcrb An exccllent all― rounder, ヽ photos and text that delves into Slovenian culture,history mdお

″′ a(CankarDeVa SJο ν ι

αj″ S`2′ ν ″′ “ SIT) ba;11,676 Z」 。こ

1鳳 ore,is

lο

by:KInecl ct al.

History&Politics Janko Prunk'S rCViSed Br'イ ″JS`ο り q′ ッ ″ (Z」 oを ba Grad;1995 SIT)is a good s′ ο

畝″ (C■ y Of巧 ub― 々 bク αれαr C」 ″ げ C“ ′ “ )was publshed to coincidc 」ana;6510S「 withLJubljma's EuЮ pcm Month ofCulture

sta■ ,but

celebrations in 1997 and is a decent pictolial

`″

if you want somcthing more in―

″r ″′ι depth, pick up a copy Of r″ ′ι ′ι SIο ッ

′ α 0′ :gJ″ s, .・

′ S ν ι ′ πι ″′ s, PぉOsP′ ο iイ ο

`″

(Macrnillan; 5254 SIT)edited by Jlll Benderly&:Evan Craft.A dozen chapters

″α(Avante Ovelview Of the capit」 .L′ b″ α

“ Kladnik& Garde; 8990S口『)by Bogdan I])anicl RoJSck is a basic introduction to the capital.

46 Facts for the Visitor―

CD ROIM wwtgzs.sI

Language The bett colnpact dictionay isthe English― Slovene′ SIovenc― English iイ ο ど S′ ον α′ /2И ο′ι ′ ″

D′ ε ′ Jο ″ a′ 7(Cankar」

:′

`i″

eVa

Zaloを ba;7875 SIT)by DatSa Komac. Ifyou wantt。 lcanl Slovenc on your own,

choose(ア ο′ ′ ο 1_′

WWW■

SS1/Slυ

WWWSigoVSiAZノ

S′ οッ

`″

pack containing a 324‐ page book and two

60-minutc cassettes. Anothcr sclf― paced

couse is■ αελib“ ぉ ον ι ″ `(Hodder& Stoughton;3526 SI「 `rs′ ;UK￡ 14.95),which includes a 196‐ page book and onc cassete.

ム、 lpine

Association of SIovenia(Planinska

Zveza SIovcne;PZS) ww,arnes.s』 jzⅣ od b″ Flshencs lnsim“ (Zav“ .2a RibiStvo)

www.肛 ctuis1/sloveni″

CD ROM

ka Maica:SIM)

wwwmvslo.siノ

α

`′ from the CPTS and S′οッι″″ from Vitrum Publishing.Both are in English.The CPTS 江so produces a diskette c」 ied C″ ″ο ッ

Dο らπ)Gο s″ ′ ″ο,which lists hundreds ofinns and country rcstaurants across Slovcnia.IBut it's re」 ly just a listing Of names,addresws,

telephone nurnbers,Opening hours etc;there are no reviews or recorninendatiOns.

/SIoven」 a Rl■ ヽ www skb.sy

SKB Banka

wwwよ ompas― holy

si

Kompas travcl agency

Scc also tllc(:)nline Serviccs scction in thc

町ubUma Chttterお

r mOre SitCS.

NEIWSPAPERS&MAGAZINES Slovenia counts fOur dally newspapers,the

ONLINE SERVICES Slovenia has gonc lriternet crazy and cvcry‐

onc from TV and radio smtiOns tO sp01も

ClubS has aヽ 【 eb sitc.About 7%of all Siovenes use the lnternetregularly and sOrne

30%own a PC.

・I'he best singic sOurce Of infonmation on

the lnternet is the SIoWWWenia site: www.lJS・ Si:90/slo′ .It hぉ an in∝ ractive map

Where you cal click on to morc than twO dozen cities,tOwns,ski reso■ s ctc as wcll as

informatiOn On culture, history, food and

wine, getting to and frOnl SIovcnia and

wh江 's on.Othcr usefulヽ 石 eb

irst.hm」

Siovcnian Emgants'Ccntc(Siovcnska WWWljudimiが OrノmOSυ MOST― SIC voluntccr work organisaton

Two CD ROMs available on Slovenia :ノ

City

Government Ofice for Women's AfFttrs

wwtpzs.si

lzselje“

include the inultiinedia Iル を′ οο″′′ οS′ ον

SOWCCy」 phabeげ

“ in Slovenia (:)rganisations

ι (Routledge, ondon; 8328 SI′ `“「 ; UK￡ 29.99), a course Fa′

Chanber ofl欧 )onomy of SIovenia(GosFЮ ― darska Zbomica Slovcnije;GZS)

siに s wholly or

partly in English include:

mOSt Widely red being D`′ ο ("b戌 りand ″″r rEッ 」 ■‐

30cOvcr wceklies,お nightlies `″ and"g)Some inonthlics topics as

diversc as agriculture,inance and wOlmen's fashion.1イ′ α′J″ ar】り ″)is a libemi weckly

covenng p。 11■ cal and “ sOcial issues. There arc no English‐ language news‐ papers though a good 20‐ page political and

busmcss newslctter cdled S′ο ″力

1物 ι y た′

is available by subscription or on “ thc lnter―

net.COntaCt Vitrum Publishing(雪 061-126

1412;fax 061‐ 1402027;vitrum-lj@

eund.Si)試 Hradeckega ulica 38 in Ljub‐

lma.An mnua subscnptiOn cOs“ DM126.

The Slovenian Emigrants'Centre(sce

WWW.kabi.sysi21/aa/ Ad a Alrw.ays.Schcdules and rOutes

USef11 0rganiSatiOnS iater in thiS Ch"ter) publishcs a glossy quallerly rnagazine in

WWWiounst‐ tЮ ard.si

English called S′ ο ν

CoTOrate and proinOdOnal si“ of tte SiO_ venian llounst BOard

www.sigov.si SIoVenian govern■ lcnt.IGencral,busincss and econonuc news.Indcx of institutiOns www.sigo■ syasノindcx.hm■ StauSuCa1 0'fiCC Of Siovenia.Facts and igl■ ,s

υαand

has a sitc On the

lntemet(SeC Online`″ SCⅣ ices).Single COpies

cost US$7,an annual SubScription US$25/ DiM40. ■′ ■イ S′ ονι″1,α is an English― language mOnmly mag`2ine(18α )SIT)published by I:)clo and focuses on nlanagement,rnarket‐

Facts brthe Visibr―

Radio&TV 47

ing and prOmOtion.Many of the articles on

Network― with`taking heads'droning on

tounsln tre well wntten and useful. wiestern newspapers in lEnglish available

for hours about me state Of p he like.

On the day of publication at kiosks,hotels and department StOreS in ttub」 ana inClude ir`″ α ′ 71r′ b“ ,t′ , the the r″ ′ ″αri。 ″α′′

ViDEO SYSTEMS

`″ Iれ

″ ′η″ ′ JO″ α た α′ ,the F“ α `s `″ “ グα“ “sA物 帥d υ ンThe EuЮ pean ed on ofhe ″′ ′額c wa′ ′ s′ ″α J。 r″ ″ and the Lど `″ `P′ “ the following day. usually avallable C“ ′′jα

`′

RADiO&TV Radioteleviz」 aSlovenla(orRTV

Slovenla

vatisaion and

If you wantto rccord or buy video tapes to play baCk hOFne,yOu WOn't getthC piCture if he image registration sysに ms ae dimerent.

Likc mostofEurope and Austdia,Slovcnia uses the PIAL(Phase Alternative Linc) systern, which is incompatible with the North Ame can and JapmeSe NTSC stand‐ 証d or■ e SECAM systcm used in Fralce.

fOr Sh。 ■)inCOrpOmtCS bOth radiO and tleVi‐

sion.Radio SIovenija has three nationd

channels(RadiO slovenija l,2&3),a giOnd one iniMaibor(ヽ

1ヽ

41)and specid

“ Ones fOr the IIungarian nl直 nority in Murska V狙 )and■ e ltalian Sobota(Radio Murs one in Koper(Radio Koper‐ Capodist a). In July md August both Radio Slovenija l and 2 broa(lcast a rcpo■ on thc Weather, including conditions on the sea and in the

moun● ins,in English,German and ltdian江 7.15 am.News,weather,tafl■ c and tounst inforrnation in the sanne languages follows on Radio l at 9.35 arn dally,cxcept Sunday.

AlsO at this tirne Radio 2 broadcasts weekend trafEc conditions after each news

bulletin from Filday afternoon through

es,

lens cleaner etC)are aV“ lable throughOut s10venia,though the largest selection is in Liubliana.Film pnces vary but 24 exPoSu麗

,s

of 100 ASA KodacolorII,Agね or Fujlilm will cost about 650 Srr and 36 exposures

750 SIT.Ektachrome l∝ )(36 exposucs)is lllo slr.

Photo developers call bc found in towns andcitles nadonwlde,and you can haVe your ■1ln pК Кessed in a inatter of hours.:Devel‐ Oping pnnt filnl oosls about 2500 Srr for 36

pnnts(10x15cm).For 36 frained transpar‐ encics,expectto pay around 12CX)SIr. arge outfits with fast processing in lL′

Sunday evcning. There's a nightly news bulletin at 10.30 pm thrOughout he yeな on Radio l.

ノ Fヽ 4 Ylou can listen to Radio l onヽ 4ヨ レ

fre―

quencies 88.5,90.0,90.9,91.8,92.0,92.9,94.1 and 96.4 as、 vellas

PHOTOGRAPHY&V:DE10 Film ald basic cameracquipment Ome

AM 3268.Radio 2 can“

foundlon iVttlz/Fヽ487.8,92.4,93.5,94.1,95.3,

96.9,97.6,98.9 and 99.9.

Televizija Slovenija bЮ adcぉ ts on two channels,S10venija l and Slovenija 2.A subsidiary called TV Koper― Capodistria

LJub」 ma are Kodよ Exprcss a Slovenska cesta 55,which is open weekdays fron1 8″ un

to 7 pm and on Saturday 111 l pnl, and Mkrokop Kod」 (Express at Gκ gorё iё eva ulica 9(open weekdays only froin 8 anlto 4

pm).some smaner agencies。

cr proLs‐

sional scrvice atcornpctitive rates.(])nc good “

example in the capitd is Foto Crad at Mikloζ iё eva cesta 36.Itis open from 8 ain

o6pm on w∝ kぬ ysanddll n∞ n onSatuday.

bloadcasts in ltalian on thc colst.There a・ e thlce pavate col■ mel℃ial channcls,includ‐

TIME

ing Kanal A,TV3 and the immcnscly

Slovenia lies in thc central Europeall tiinc

pOpular lPop.I'ヽ r,and about 20 1ocal cable

zone. 19′ inter til■

stations in cities and towns across the

e is GMl17tr(〕 lplus one hour while in surnincr it's(]、 fr√LI・ rc Plus

noticed all those satellite dishes on the roof

two hours.C,locks are advanccd by onc hour at 2 ain on the last Sunday in March and turned back on■ le last Sunday in O,ctober

tops pulling in Sky,CNN and the Caroon

u√ ithout

country.In general,public television is not

very good in SIovenia―

you inay have

taking daylight savings time into

48 Facts for the VisitOr_Electricity

account,thc table below shows tiinc differ― cnccs using Ljubljana as a ret“ ncc POint.

Beerin a′ ι ν ″JCa(pub)iS SelWed in cither aO.5L glass(ッ ι ′ 」 々ο′Jν ο,or one measunng O.3L(″αあ ′ルοり .｀Ⅳine comcsin lL bo■ les Or iS OrdC“ d by thcグ

■meSin Oher C饉 OS When it13 Noon in Liubllana

`nOnnal'glasS of wine`cj(decilitrc,0.lL).A is about O.2L ttα

グ'`ε f,,but nO One iS going to blink an eyc if

1l pFn

you order thrcc or nlore.

Buchな ost Budapest

lpm

VVith 94%ofall Siovenlan hOuscholds owning washing inachines… wcll,goOd luck trying

Hong Kong

7 pnl

AucHand

lpm

ｄ ︲ け 山

Ｂ Ｂ

Athens

LAUNDRY to ind a self― seivicc laundreie!Thc bcst pl′

ce

Moscow

2 prn

to lookお rdo― it― yoursclfwashers and dryers is at hostels,college dOnllitOrics and camp

New York

6 arn

SiteS(abOuta dOZen haVethem),and there are

I:′

(,ndon

ll arn

Paris

acouplcofPlacesinLJubtanahatwilldO yOur

Prague

Rolne San Frmci“o Sydncy

9 pin

Ъ ,0

8 pin

ToЮ nω V√

laundry rcasonably quickly(sce Laundry in the ln3orma10n sectiOn Of that chaptcr). Hotcls W■ ltake carc ofittoo.Asm」 lcr one in t“ pЮ vhces wm wぉ h,dry md udaloadぉ r

3 aFn

6 anl

aound 2∝ Юto 25(Ю SIT P cesin Ljubtana Will be much,much higher(cg 95(X)SIr at

狐saw

Vlenm

the SiOn hOtCl fOr the Same 10ad!).

Zagreb

HEALTH Like a lot of other iEuropean languagcs,

lヽ

Io special inoculadOns arc needed bcfore

Slovcnc tells the time by inaking refcrcncc

visiting Slovcnia,and tap watcris 1009ら safe

tO thc ncxt hour―

notthe last onc.′ 11lus l.15

eVeryWhere(thOugh OVe「 chlonnated on the

is`one quarter oftwo',1.30 is`half of t、 vo' and l.45 is`three quarters oftwO'.

COaSt).There arC no toublcsome snakes or Cr∝ pycrawI∝ b wOnγ あ out b mosqШ toes can be a re」 pain arOund lakcs and pOnds. Make sure you'lc anned with insα ■1℃lpellent.

ELECTRiCi〒 Y

・ hc clectric curTent in Slovenia is 220V, 50Hz AC.Plugs a・ e the standard Europcan I｀

type with two round pins.Do not attcinpt tO plug an=へ merican appliance intO a Slovenian outlct、 vithout a transfOrnler

Thc standard of rnedical care in Slovenia is high and a cOnstituent part Ofthc nation's

welfare systcm.And itis gencrOus― wolnen gct a full ycar orafter havmg a cl」 d and now thc child's father can opt to take the lcave instcad,if that's whatthc couple decides.

WEIGHTS&MEASURES

Citizens of ceiain EU counries(Aus=ia,

SIovcnia uscs thc rnetric systcnl exclusivcly.

Benclux,Gcrmany,Italy aldthc UK)as well

In supcrlnarkcts and outdoor rnarkets,frcsh

aS sorne eastern Europcan countrles gct free

f00d iS S01d by Weight Or by pieCC(た ο S,.

emergCncy rncdical aid. Evcryone elsc is

When OrdCring by WCight,yOu SpeCitt by

entitlcd tO it at thc vcry least,but thcy nlust

ki10 0r dCCagramme rグ ιたαg″α″リ ー

50

dccagranlnles is equal to half a kl10 0r roughly onc pound. F.rcsh ish is aln10st always s01d in restaurants by decagrarnine, uSually abbrcviated asグ g. For thosc、 vho lα

nccd help with the inetnc systcm,thcre'sa convcrsion tablc atthc back ofthis book.

bcar the cost Of thc serviccs.ヽ 「our cOuntry's agreernent、′ ith Slovenia rnay rcquire canying

a SpeCial fOrnl SO Check、 vith your Ministry of Hcalth Or equivalent bcfOre leaving hornc. Subsequent treatinent nlust bc pald for in cash and rnedical carc and incdicine can bc

cxpensive in Slovenia fOr fOreigners. ′ rhe

Toilets 49

Facts for the Visitor―

best idea if you're not covered by travel insurancc(“ e the prceding Visas&Docu― mentS SeCtiOn)iS tO buy tempOrary he」 th

insurance through the Health lnsurance lnSitute Of SIoVenia(ZaVOd Za ZdraVStVen。

Zavarovanje SIovenije;ZZZS;● 061-172 1200)江 Mik10Siёcva cesta 24 in Ljubljana or the Emona Globtourtravel agcncy. centte Eve,City in Slovenia has a hed

whcc clinics opcratc ttom 7 am to 7 pm.

GAY&LESBIAN TRAVELLERS The gay association Roza 11lub(● 061‐ 130 4740;fax 061-328185),at Kersnikova ulica 4 in Ljubjana,publishes a quartedy called RI′ ν ο′ ッιrand organises adisco every Sunday night■ the Klub K4 in巧 ubtana br gays and lesbians.Magnus(● /fax sanle),the gay

branch of thc Studcnt Cultural([lentre (Studcntski Kultumi Center;も KUC),puts Out the monthly broadsheet κi`々

`c.A ncw

pnl and atic,躍 〕 t one in a town or city is open

independent gay newsletter now being dis‐ tributed at barS and ClubS arOund Iィiublana

round the clock.A sign on the door of any

is sι

pharrnaCy(′ α′ ″α,Will help yOu 10Cate the `λ closest 24‐ hour scrvice.

lcsbias shouldcontκ the SKUC‐ af罰 江ed organisation LL(● /fax same)at Mctelkova

Phanmacies are usually open fron1 7 a11lto 8

sr″ rsお たrs).

handle any lnedical problem or elmergency

ulica 6 in巧 ub」 ana.It publishes a pol ca, cultural and socia rcvicw c」 1」 ι 。 `,sみ The GALfon(● 061‐ 1324089)is a hotline and source ofgeneralinfolTrladon for

that docs develop.

gays and lesbians.It operates dally fron1 7 to

T10:LETS

.ludnula・ Orysiqrdの

Finding a public lavatory is not」 ways easy in Slovenia and whcn you do you'1l probably havc to pay anything from 310 to 50 SI「 for

thc l:1ltcrnet leaves no stone unturned.

Remember

江 travel

hc滅

血 depends on

yourpledeparture preparations,yourday‐ to― day health care while travelling and how you

.

10 pm.The Qu∝ rRぃ ouces D

the convenience. All train stations have toilets as do rnost shopping centres and departrnent stores.・ he standard of hygiene I｀

is usu」 ly accep鯰 ble.

DiSABLED TRバ VELLERS Facilities found throughout Slovenia include

public telephones with ainpliners for the dcaf,special traffic lights at pedestrian cross‐

ings that rnakc a bceping noise forthe blind, sloped pavenlcnts and ranlPS in govcrnrncnt

WOMEN TRバ VELLERS VViornen do not suffcr any iparticular form of

harassinent in Slovenia,though rape and

buildings for whcclchairs, and rcservcd spaces in many car parks.

Zveza P″ aplegikov Republike SIovenije

domestic violence get little inedia coverage

here. Most nlen― even drunks― sively polite wi■

are effu―

women.Women may not

be made to feel espccially welcomc when eating or drinking alone,but it's really no difflerent here than in many other countries in Europe.Ifyou can handle yourselfin aless than COmお nable SituⅢ On,yOu'1l be finC The I)niも tvo Me飩 o Zensk(City of Wolncn Associ■ ion),pat ofthe Govemment Ofice

forヽス omen's Affars(● 061-125112;fax

061-125 6057)at TomOiё eva ulica 4 in Iィ

斌ory(www

fOr gayS md l∝ bianS On

jubljana,SpOnSOrS an intCrnatiOnal tSIV」

Of COntempOrary a■ S(uSually in OCbbe→ called City of Wiornen. In the cvent Of an emnergency ring ● '080 124 or any of the following six nunnbers:1口 9785. '9780 to●

(1日

'061-132 7138: fax 061-132 7286)at

Stihova ulica 14 in Ljubljana,a group th江 looks after the interests and sPCCial necds of

paraplcgics,produces a special guide for its

rnenlbersbutitisin Slovenc only.Sornccidcs produ∝ useil brochurcs ou」 ng w ぬ local sights and attractions are accessible for

WheelCh rS・ The C“ :′ ι″ ο gみ S′ οツ ブ ““ G´α ′ c is an outstanding exarnple of this. `″ 'ι

SENIOR TRAVELLERS Senior citizcns rnay be entitlcd to discounts in SIoVenia On thingS like tranSp011[(Cg tl10SC

over 60 years ofage holding an intemational

RES card get frorn 30% to 50% off on SIovenian R劉 Iways),mu“ um admission fees

50 Facts for the Visitor― Travel with Children

etc,provided they show proof of their age.

The minimum qu」

ifying age is generally ω

.

TRAVEL WiTH CH:LDREN

・ hey rnight not have a lot of kids ― the average fal ly numbersjust thFe peOple― but Slovenes love them and this is a vcry children― friendly country.The fanllly goes everywhere together,and you'll see young― stes dining with their parents in cvcn the poshcst restaurmも I・

.

Succcssful travel with young children requires planning`md c∬ lort.Dlon't try to overdo things;even for adul“ ,packing too rnuch into the tirne available can cause prob―

lems.And rnakc surc thc activities include the kids as well― balance that inorning at

巧 ubuana's Nationd Museum with an after― Roを nik Hill or a noon at the zoo on 】 perf(ornlance at thc Puppet llleatre.Includc

children in thc trip planning; if they've helped to work out whe■ )you will be going, thcy will be nluch nlore interested when they get thet℃ .Lonely Planet's7)lα ッ ″カカC力 ″― `′ ′′″is a good source ofinfonnation. “several farinhOuscs in sIOvenia Organise progranls forchildren that may include horse riding, caving, skiing, leanling traditional

crafts or just messing aound with fam

lonmulas,soy and other types of rrulk,dis― pOSable nappieS(diaperS)and the like Can be

as great in Slovcnian supcrmarkets thesc days as it is back home, but the opening hours inay be quite different. I)on't get caught out atthc wcekend.

STUDENT TRAVELLERS The Student Organisation of the Univettitv Of珂 ub」 ma(Stu¨ ntSka OrganiZκ ija Uni―

verze Liubjmi;SOU;●

061‐ 1337219)at

Kersnikova ulica 4 in the capital is a good

place to rnix with like‐ minded people. Therc's a small clubた ybeК 6 there for

socialising and suring the “ net, and the organisation produces a useful brochurc called Sあ ν Jα ′)r Fο ″な″ S″ ″ rs in `″ `″ which,anong lots of other things,thc datcs and locations of wccklv studcnt parties arc listed.The Student Cultural Cent:o(SiKIJC;

● 061-1304740;fax 061-329 185)at the saine addrcss organises cultural activities such as theatre productions.

￢vo agencies in ttublma― Erazem and Mladi T‐ urist― deal specincally with students

and young travellers.See theヽ risas&E)ocu‐ nlcnts section earlicr in this chapter for more infornlation.

anim」 s.A grcat place to visit with the kids

(or even deposit them)is thc Ktta&Grom Ranch(● /fax 061-743234)in the village of Peよ ovec(house

No 59)nea Rovte,32km SOuth‐ eaSt Of巧 ubjana ThiS″ ″

`OffeS weck-long nding and spo■ ls prOgrains fOr children on their own from ninc yea・ s and up.Two othcr far ouses with holidays fOr

children aged five to 14 are Podinalё an (●

/fax()64‐ 688()01)in the village ofJarё ic

Brdo nca Selca,12km westofSko巧 a Loka, and UrSka(● 063‐ 762180)in the village of X【

liZevec near Stranice, 18krn north― east of

Celje.

Most car― rcntal irins in SIovenia havc children's safety setts for hire for between E)M5and IDM 10,but it is essential that you book them in advance.1｀ 1le sarne goes fOr highChairS and CotS(CribS);they're Standa・ d in some restaurants and hotels but numbers

田3 1imited.lhc choicc of babyお od,infant

USEFUL ORGANISAT10NS In addition to the organisations listcd else‐

110wing rnay be helpful for visitors to SIovenia with special where in this chaptet the f。 interests.

Archives oF the Republic of Siovenia (Arhiv itCpublike SIoVenり e:● 061-1251222;fax 061‐

216551),Gnlber P」 ace,Zveziarska ulica l, 1∞OL」 山 りamif you″ e"achng for your Slovcnian:oots,check ist with thc municip」

οbび `″ `,or country oficc わ勧留り :they haVC bnh ald dea■ Ceruicat“ gOing back a centu7・ Ⅵtal r∝ ords bcyond the govcrnnlent r,"′ s,3α rο

10()―

ycar linit are kept at lle archivcs.

SIovenian Einigm、 'Centre(SIOvenska lz"ljenska Matica: SIM: ● 061-126 3284; fax 061‐ 210 732),Calkar」 eva ulca l,lα Ю LJublma..His ofice deals with ethnic SIovcnes living abrOad

and publlShCS hC qumdy magazinc s比 ″ ウ b in English(s∝ Newspapcrs&Mag″ ines“`″ rlia).

Facts for the Visitor-1)angers&Annoyanccs 51

DANGERS&ANNOVANCES

LECAL MATTERS

Slovcnia is hardly a violent or dangerous

The"n

society. lFircarirns arc strictly controllcd,

is O.5gな g.

ted blood‐ d∞ hol

LvelformoOnsヽ

drunks a“ ラsloppy but docile and you'1l see little ofthc vandalisin that plagues ci

es like

New York or London.

・I'hough grafnti is on the inclに ,ase in big

cities,about as bad as the`handwriting on the w」 1'gets here is anti‐ papist stuffsprayed on the outside、 v」 ls of the Church of the Annunci on in Liub」 ma O coinci“ with POpc John PaulII's visitto Slovenia in May 1996. At the special traffic lights for the blind,

WhiCh bea

e Sign`Sα ′ za S′ ψ

"ο `'(Only y era"the fOr the Blind),WagS frequen■ secOnd`S',making it`Sα ″οza ι '(Only `Pι fOr Beautif11恥 40men).The OrgaliSed C me

BuS:NESS HOuRS Thc opening time r′ οッ″′dα り of shops, `′ gЮceries and department stores is usuany from about 7 or 8 anlto 7 pm on weckdays and i11 l pm on Saturday.In winterthey inay ciose an hour earliei

Bank hous va,but genemly ttey'κ Om 8 an to 5 or 6 pm weekdays(oten with “a

lunchtirne break OfOne OrtWO hOurS)and ill nOOn On Saturday.・1lle main post ofFice in

any City OrtOWn(dmOSt alWayS iC OneSliSted in the lnfol■ rlation sections ofthe individual

countnes has an,ived in Slovcnia,nc)tably in

Юwns and c es)is open from 7 am to 8 pm w∝ kdり s,dl l pm On samrday and∝ casiOn― aly bm 9t。 1l ainon sunぬy.Bmchom∝ s close carlier on wcckdays and at noon on

巧ubljma and Maibot but nowhere to the

Saturday.They are dwaysclosedon Sunday.

saine degree. ines repo■ ed Police say that 90%ofall c in Slovenia involve thefts so take the usual

6 pm Tucsday to Sunday fronl April to

precautions. IBe careful of your purse or wanetinbus andtan statiOns and whel℃ yOu

at weekends only.

Europcan tormenting Russia and eastern 】

nlay COnSi(ier leaVing it unattended(On thC beach,in a hut while hiking).ILc,ck your cair at all drnes,Park in welllit areas and do not leave valuables visiblc.

In cities like Ljubtana,Manbor(some― times called`Manabor'becausc oforganised C

me b6ed here)Or Celje,yOu might be

approached occasionallyby beggars who ask lor ald then deinand money.Butit's usu」 ly nothing senous.One problein can be drunks on the road― literally or behind the wheel―

especially around St Martin's I)ay

Museums are usually open flonl 10 am to ocmber;winter olη ning hours at shorter or

PUBLiC HOLIDAYS&SPECIAL EVENTS Slovenia celebratcs 14 holidり S夕 ′ αaJ″)a ycar.Ifany Ofthe f。 110wingfall on a sunday, then the Monday becornes the holiday. 1&2 January New Yiear's holidays 8 Fcbnltry Preζ eren/SIovenian Cuiturc Day

MarcVAp● Eastσ 27 Aprll

lnsurrection I)ay

(Martinovanje,1l Novembeう when gralん juiCC(Or″ Sり leg」 ly b∝ OmeS neW Wine

l&2 May

and cverybody“has gotto have a sip orthree. In thc cvent of an einergency,the follow‐ ing arc the mOst inlpOrmnt nuiniχ rs which

25 June

can be dialled na●

onwide: ● 113 ● 112

P。 liCe(POliC」 a)

Ftc(G“ ilci) First Aid(Prva Pom∝

(AMZS)

Labour Day holidays

Naiond Day 15 August

Assumpdon Day 310cめ ber Refonnadon Day l November

All Sans'Day 251)ccernbcr

)

CMstmas Dγ

Ambulancc(RcScvalci) Aummobile Assistance

1

&Eastcr Monday

1コ

'987

26E)ecenllber

lndepcndcncc Day

52 Facts for thc Visitor― Activities

T'hough not apublic holiday,St Martin'sI:〉

day,″

S′

Day of Tulips,Vol● l Potok― SIovcma's largest

ay

(1l November)is important since on this (p“ SSed grape juiCe)。 ffiCidly

becomes “ wine and can be sold as such.'T'hat evening farnilies traditionally dine on goose j″ ο ′ να″ ι arld sorne restaurants offer a Mα ′ ソ

May

in“ madOnal bicycle race statng in DlolenJSka.

June Fesuv」 Lent Manbor― a two― w("k extrava― ganza of folklore and culture held in latc Jun(プ e`肛 ly

July with stagcs sct up throughoutthc old Part oftown.

nied by folk nlusic.

Easじ r),peoplc cany acomplcx a・ ralgcment Of greenery and nbbOns c」 Ld ab“ rα a to “ as α´ ′end up church to be blessed.These b“ 訪 horne decorations or are placed on the graves of reladves.On the eve of St Gregory'sI)ay

aln Goreniska (1l March).children in ce towns and vmages(cg Tttiё ,iお lezn“ ,∞ t anoathundreds oftiny boats beanngcandles.

Many towns celebrate Midsurnlner's Night(lKresna Noё ;23 June)by burning a large bonfire,and StJohn's Eve(30 April)is the night for seting up tlle inaypoles and

more bonfires.AZ`g7,α ″ `iS a fdr Or SOme sort of celebration held on thc fc`st day of a chuК h's pttron saint.Naturally a lot ofthem

takc placc throughout Slovenia on 15 August,the Assumption oftheヽ rirgin Mary,

especuly tt Pt]skacOrain sttterSkamd at Sveta Cora,north of Nova Gonca. MaJOr cultural and sporting cvents in

show

Intemadonal Cycling Ma・ athon,NOvo Mesto―

dinner of goose and young wine accoinpa―

On Palm Sunday(the Sunday bCb“

flowcr and gia・ dcning

July

lntcmadonal Summer Fesdv」 ,LJublma― 血e naton'S preinler Cultural CVCnt(muSiC,山 eatrC and dance)■ Om mid■ ulyぬ rough August. Piran Music」 Evenings&,Pnl■ orsla Sunmer Fes● val― concens,■ leate and dance events held in va ous locadons in Piran,KopcL Izola and Po■orott iom early July Ю nud― August lnternadond Motocross(〕 rand P x of Slovcnia,

orebva vas(StaJeska). August a

Brettce Festival of Early Music,Brcttcc― senes of conceis of alcent music

September

KravJi Bal(Cows'Ba‖ ),Bohi町 ― a zany weekend in Scptcmbcr of folk dancc,music, caing anddrinkingtO m″ k ttc“ tum ofthe cows fromぬ cr high pasm"stO me v」 leys.

Ocobcr Dormouse Ni♪t eolhaska N∝ ),Ccrknica― cclcbration and fcast dunng thc vcry short do■ nlouse― huning

season.

December Chム tmバ concaも ,L」 ub」 ana md Pos● na Cavo

Slovenia appear in the Spccial Events section of thc individual towns and cities. ・ hc following abbreviated list gives you a taste of whatto expect. I｀

Januaγ Woinen'sヽ Vond Cup SI」 om and Giant Sl■ Om Compeuuon(Golden Fox),Pohor」 e― one ofthe maり Orintcrnadonal

thc slopes south‐

ski events fOr wOnlen held on

west ofiManbo■

ACTiVIT:ES Sl()venes havc a strong attachrncntto nature, and rnost lead active,outdoor lives frorn an early age.F.ronl skiing and cycling to caving and birdwatching,Slovenia has it all and it's always afう ordable.

Skiing

Fcbruary KulentovalJe,Pt切 ―a`ntc ofspung'celebratcd

Skling is by farthc■ lost popularrecreatiOnal

fOr 10 days up tO ShrOve・ ucsday and thc inost 「

entllusiasts― and sorne pcople believe the

popular Mardi Cras celebrations in Siovcnia (othcr impo■ ant pre― Lenに nた siv」 s take place in CerkniCa ald CCrkn。

March

).

skiJuinping wOnd cup chanpionshiPs,Planica

―thrccぬ ys ofhgh nying on shs nca KranJSka

Gom. AP

l

lntcrnation」 Kay」 (and Canoc CoinpetitiOn, Osilnica― flve days of wild― watcr racing On the Kolpa Rivcr in NotranJSka.

pursuitin Slovenia― counting some 300,(XЮ

sport was actually invented in the 17th century on the Blokc Plateau in NotranJSka province.Everybody seeins to take to the Siopcs or trails in scason(mainly December to March)and you cm too atski tso■ s and grOundS aCЮ SS the COunt,(SCe bOXCdじ Xt entitled Slovenian Ski Resolls).They are most crowded over the Christmas h。 lidays and in carly Febniary.

Facts for the Visitor―

KZイ マ鑢ヽゝ灘″ 鵠´

鵠てゝ 潔∠ ンは

Activities 53

鵠ヽ あ潔イン鵠、2イ マ3ア ヽき′鑢てゝ*乙′鍵,ヽき′能ヽゝ米″ 出,ヽ ミリ

Siovenian Ski Resorts S:ovenia has four dozen ski resorts and grounds.Most of tholbig9ost andlbost equipp.ed ones are in the but otho「 lar99 0nes are‐ in tho Julian Alps― Kraniska Gora,Vogel above Bohini and Krvaveceast oflKrarij― Poholo Massit incluOい g those at Maribor Pohole and Ro91a.Kanin,near Bovec,olersぬ o highest‐ a‖ 抽de skiing in Sbvenia and the season there sometimes extendsinto May These and otherresorts have muni口 o lent:ental and large reson hotels. chair lifts,tows and cable cars,ski schoOls,oquIP,ァ The f。 ￨￨。wing is a selected list Of the cOuntry's ski resors and grOunds‐ and their facillties arranged by

province.For funheri可 fi。

ormation― contact numbers,ski pass p‖ ces,tu‖ on,transport to and fromthe ski lds,accOmrnodationletc_see the approprate chaptei

Dole,iSka

′ Oθ ―this sk centre 16km sOuth of DoleniskO■ opli● o usua‖ y operates tive T‐ bartows on the R00‐ 0″ η O`″ り ‐ be undOrrenovation. slooes of Mt GaCe at altitudes of between 730 and 930m.butit may SI‖ ■iaVna160′ a― abOut 10kFn nO蔵 h「 WeSt Of Ribnica near Sodra2ica,this is One Of thelSmallest skilcentres in bartow serves a 200rn‐ long piste at altitudes ol bet″ ooo 860 and 910m. the country(One・「‐

Goreniska θ′ 。d_砧 e closest`Ю al'ski

reson to the lake is Zatrnik on the slopes ofthe Pokliuka Plateau 8km west of Bled with skiino up to 1204m,a chair‖ t and four T‐ bas.On the lake itselfthe minilski oentre oiStra2a has . a chairlit that goels to the top of a 646m h‖ l and the star ofa 1200m‐ Iong piste.

OSt 2300m― the only real pistes and some 12km o, aに The season here cross‐ country runs setved by three chairills and two T‐ bars,are reached by cabl● 。 can contlnuo unll May . κοb′ a― this reso■ about lkm east o1 3ohi● ska Bistrica has 23紺 n of siopos(skiing up to 1480m)釘 ld 10km

κa″ ′ thlS Ski Centre in the mOuntainS nOFth‐ WleSt Of BOVeC haS Sk:ing up tO alい altitude Alpine skling avallable in thO● Ountry.The Ski f101dsi 14km of high‐"―

0● Chair l■ ,and three T‐ bars κra″ヴ sκ a GO“ ―he min sk1 0entreS at Kraniska Gora and Podko"n,3km apa■ ,att the iargest and best

of Cr“ StOuntry runS With th“

equlpped in the country.Skiing ln Kraniska Gora is on the eastern SidO of Vitranc and some runs,Oin upwih li■s and 10 thOse at Podkoren on Ⅵtranoも no■ hem face(up to about l(沿 Om).Kraniska Gora has twothalィ tOwsI POdkoren has another two chairlins and five tows.In a‖ ,theヽ vo centres have 30krn of pistesland

40km ofcЮ ss‐ country mns. κn′ayOc― this sk centre 17kin

no■ h‐ east of Kra● is at1450m and is seived by acable car」 tcounts ad02en pto 1971m. ountry"ns wth lkling Ч charlns and Iもartows,25km ofsbpes and 6km o(cro“ “ O and 6k,west of KraniSka P′ an′ ca― the ski‐ lumpinq centre at Planica,across the molo:wav from Rateё Gora.has si umps with lenoths of 25,120 and 180m.The sho■ lin nearthe Dom Planta hut ttache31an ov. alttudo of onv∞ Om.butthere are somё 20km oi crossoountⅣ "nsin Sね ″y油 ―s6mo 12km westofも Юfia Loka,StaFVrh is situな ted tt heanTalnar amude Va‖ of1200m and cove鳴

18km

of ski slopes and 3k「 l of tra‖ s.There are four T― bartows and a Chalriift. ￨￨‐ . ‐ ‐ on,about llkrn north of Ka:■ nik,A ソθ″ ka P′ arha― this centre is reached by cable carfrom the lowor sta‖ chalrlit fernes skie薇 :up to Ctradi`ёe frorr:the upper cable‐ car station to 6km oi s:opes,‐ which are served by T‐ bars.Skiing is beヽ ″ oen 1666 and‐ 1888,n

ツ10gθ ′―sonie 1540m above the Lake Bohini's south・ western corner and accossible by cabi● cat Vbge: counts 36km of ski slopes and cross‐ countryれ lns sen′ ed by throe chairirts and five T,bartows with s‖ ing up to 1840m Ko『 oska

κOρ θ―some 138om above the Mislinia Vatley on the westem edge of the Poh。 south‐ east of SlovenilGradec,this centre counts 9km of slopes and seven T‐ baい Kopa peaks(skiing up to l(42m).Thett att also 15km of cross・ country ttns.

￨。

Massr and 16km

on Mala Kopa and Velika

Primors,o Cθ inO― this skicente 10km nonh‐ east oi Ceは nois on Crni Vh(1290m)and coversiust over7持 no(,uns seived “ by fourtows and three chairlits.

Stalerska GO′ :θ ― om Zekovec,4km nonh‐ west of Moz● f「

e,a cable carruns to this ski centre that has 10km of pistes

at upto 1500m and 12.5km of skitrails. Ma″ bOrρ O力 0″ e― with 60km ofslopes,25km OICrOss‐ country runs and 1 6 sk‖ rts,this ski centre south― wα st of Mariboris Slovenia's iargest(skiing up to 1347m).You can reachit by road(20krn)or by cable carin 15 minuteS frOFn Z90rniO Radvanie,6km south‐ west of MariboL P(に ,aζ ka S′a」 na― thiS Spa tOWn hそ 鴻 a tiny Ski slope on Janina Hi‖ (404m)wih 3km oltrals and M′ o tows. ROg′ a― the 15km of slopes and 30km of cross‐ count″ trails atthis sK centre in the Poho薔 e are served bv two chairilfts and ll tows with skiing up to 1 517m. III

54 Facts for the Visitor― Activities Slovenia hasJoined Austl■ a and ltaly in a thrcc―

country bid to host the 2006ヽ

7intcr

∼

1343022;fax 061‐ 1322140)in LiublJana, the unlbrclla organisation of 185 clubs with

C)lynlpics in a `garnc without borders'. In SIovcnia,the events wouldbe held at Planica

90,000 pad meinbers,isthe lont ofdlinfor‐

and in LJubljana,aound Klagenir m the

publishes hiking maps and has a very usen.1

Austnan province of Karnten(Koroζ ka)and

list of 165 inountain huts,refuges and bivou―

at conina in north― east ltaly.

acs throughout Slovenia.

Hiking&C:iinbing

It can tell you which huts are open and when and whether you can book in advancc

AInlost as■lany Slovenes hike as thcy〈 lo ski

via nlobile telephone.It also provides inlor‐

and onc of the nicest tiings aboutthis aciv― iW iS thatit giVeS yOu a ChanCe tO meet10C」 peOplC in an infOrFnal enVirOninent.'ThOugh nlany SIovenes are expcrt cinl晩 Is,you don't

■lation about weathcr conditions and spccinc trdis in Triglav Nationd Park ald elsewhere. More detalled infonnation aboutthc PZS and thC park ttpearS in the ttubliana and

have tO bc a rnOuntameer to `conquer' Mt THglav(28641■ ),the na」 on's i ghe■ peak. Slovenia has an cxccllent systenl of tralls

―somc 7(ЮOkin ofthcm― 額ld they arc most commonly mπ ked by a red c“ clc with a

whit centre.At crossings,theκ ae signs indК ating distances and walkng times given in hours or fractions thereo■

The Julian Alps,the Kan■ lik― Savinり a Alps and the PohorJe Massif arc the rnost popular places forhiking,butthcrc a・ csomc wondcト

価ltrallsinthelower

mation and can organise guides. It also

Web Gorc■ ska chapters or check out ttc Site(See Online SerViCeS Cdier in thiS chaptcr).Abivouκ rb′ναり is the most bttic hut,providing sheltr only,while a reilge ν′″ぶ りhaS refreShmentS,SOmetimeS rえ α

`′ accoininodatioll but usually no running

water.A butrた οdα りor housc(aο ″,cal be a siinple cOttage Or a fairly grand establish_

mentjust

kc some ofthe ones closc to Mt

Triglav.

SIovenia tt Radlje in KoroSka ald contmues

Abed formc nightruns from 1320 to 2750 SIT in a Category l hut delX)nding on thc nunlber of bedsin the room and from 1000 to 1760 SIT in a Category Π.(A hut is

for some 280k:rn to a point south of Mt

(3ategory l if it is inore than lkm or one

Sneを nik in Notranり Ska.

hOur's wak away fr01n mOtOnsed transp。 ■ ―evc,ting closcris Caego,Ⅱ ・)Mcmbers of recognised intcrn■ Юnd hittng or climb‐

lls md valeys tt wcl.

The E6 Europcan Hiking Trall running io:n the Bdtic to the Adnatic seFS enterS

The E7 European Hiking Trail,which connects the Adantic with thc iBlack Sca, crosses into Slovenia at Robiё

in Priinorska,

runs a10ng the soё a valley and then cOnin_ ues through the soutllern part of the countrv

eastwad o Bismca Ob^sOdi in SttterSkL

ing associations get a 30%discount.Holdcrs of a Hostelling lnternadonal cird inay alsO get a small discOunt.

Food Pnces are regulated at PZS huts as

E7tralls a・ e inarked by a red circle with a

well.A simple med ofヵ ,″ 烙α,ψ ag′ ri or gο ′ αを(scc Menu ltems m`αthe Food∞ ction)

yellow ccntrc.

should cost bctwccn 50()and 800 SIr in a

bcforc exiting into Croatia.The E6 and the ′ he Slovenian AlpincT:rall,which opened in 1953,runs iom Mariborto Ankl肛 an on I｀

thc coast via the PohorJc Massif, the Kamnk― Savinja Alps,ぬ e Julim Alps and t“

cerknO and ldtta hms.You cm」 s。

follow the Slovellian (3eological ・rrail (Slovcnska GcoloSka Pot)system in v`rious palts of thc country.

Catcgory l hut,from 400 to 600 SIT in a Caじ 80ry Ⅱ OnC・ Teais 80 to 120 SI「 ,lL of miner」 water 400 to 6(Ю SIT and O.5L of beer 300 to 550 SIT. Thelmain centtc forrock climbing is Lake

Boh珂

(sec thc GorenJSka chaptcr).

Swimming

The Alpine Association of SIovenia

ln warmer rnonths,swimining is extremely

061-

popularon thecOastal areas as well asinBled

(Planinska Zveza Slovenije;PZS;●

Facts for the Visitor―

and Bohinj lよ es and the Krka and Kolpa

nvers.Many towns have a swimnllng PO。

1

open to the lpublic and sorne,like the onc at

Poltoroz,use heated sca watcr Pools soHletimes rcquirc you to weそ ra

bathing cap;disposablc plastic ones are usually available fionl the pool atendant.

Activitics 55

flshing is good at Bled,BohinJ and Cerknica. But fishing is not a cheap sPOrt in Slovcnia; a daily perimt at lle popular nver spots will cost you fron1 8500 to 13,700 SIT.

For infornlation, licences and scasons, contact the Fisheries lnstitutc(Zavod za lRibiStvo; ● 061-126 2019; fax 061-125 5185)at ZuPan“ eva ulica 9 in巧 ubljana

Bo`」 ting&Windsurfing

Salling is big on the Adriatic,and you can )nt salling boats■ sevcrd locations dong

Hunting Hunting is big busincss in Slovenia, and

“ cOast,including the Portoroを Marina. thc You can windsurfhcrcわ o as well as on lakes

many EuЮ peans(es"Cidly ltalians)will

Blcd and Bohinり ・

grOuse,abOarorcvcn abear.Anlong thcbcst areas are the virgin forests ofiKoё evski Rog and the Golanci Hills in Gore"Ska.The

Kavaking,Canoeing&Ra“ ing These sp。 ■s are practised anywhere there's

ninning water but especially on thc Krka

RverinIお lcnjska(■ Zuお m"rk,(ka,Novo

pay big,urn,bucksto bag a deer,a brace of

SIovenian IIunting Association (】 Lovska zveza sIOvenije;● 061-214950;ね x061‐

Mesto),the Kdpa in Bela Kttina(Vinica),

214947),江 the same address as theFisheries lnStitute in巧 ubjana,Cm OrgttiSe a guidC

tL SNaRvoin Gorettska(Sob∝ camp si“ near Bled,Bohini),そ md■ le Savinia Riverin

Orinclude you in a huntingiparty.In addition tO a daly fee,you will be cha・ ged for each

Staerska(lЮ garska Dolna nea Radmtte).

anirnal or bird killcd.

The best white― water rafting in the country is on tllc Soё a Rtiver,one of only a

Horse Riding

half―

dozen rivers in the European Alps whose uppcr w■ ers are still unspoiled.The

Slovenia is a nation of horse nders,and the

centre ls at Bovec,which is covered in the P morska chap“ ■

ofthe Spanish Riding Schoolin Vienna,was irst bred■ Lipica in Primorska.More than a dOzen centres registrcd with me Eques‐

wOnd's mOst famous horse,the Lipizzaner

Diving

trialAssociationofSloveniaomernding and

】 ヒ lou can dive in all Slovenian rivers,lakes

lessons,but thec are just as many sm」

and ofcourse the sea with the sole exception ofthe ish h■ chery tt L」 【 e Bohi可 .The sport is populer at L.ake Bled and Fiesa,Ankaran and Portoroを on the coast and you call even take leSSOnS and quali取 」uSt“ membertha

stables renting privately.()ne of the biggcst

―and mostprofessional― outitsisthe Kaval Equestrian Centt(● 067-54506)at Pc― stranek Castle, about 6.5kin south of

you'rc diving for the sport hel℃ ;there aln'ta

infoπ n■ ion

POStOina・ YOu Can COnttCt it di“ Ctly Or gCt

from ABC Fann and Country‐

whole lotin those waters.For moreinforma‐

fax side IIolidays(`壼 ノ

tion contact the Slovenian I)ivers Union

ljub」 ana.

(● 061‐ 1339308)at

lcr

061-576 127)in

Celovζ ka cesta 25 in

Ljubljana.For information about cave

Cyc‖ ng

diving,see Caving below.

SIoVcnia iS a WOnderful COuntry fOr biCy‐ cling and mount n biking;血c2,“ ′,sr Mα ′

げ S′ ο″″″,aVailめ に おr freC eVe,Where,

Fishing SIovenia's rivers, strearns and lakcs arc

lists cycling itincrarics. Many towns and

teerning with trout,grayling,plke and other

cities,including

ish..rhe best nvers for angling are the sOё

a,

血e Krka,the Kolpa,me SavaBohittka ncT BohinJ and the Unica in Notranjska.L譴

Цublma,MariboL Ptuj, anL Sko巧 a Loka,hafe

Novo Meso,(石

bicyclc lancs and soinc even have spccial

【 e

trafic lights.

56 Facts forthc Visitor―

Activitics

Mountain bikes a・ c for rent at Bled and

Thermal Spas

BOhini,md the unCЮ Wded Ю S aOund

Slovcniacounts solne 16■ erind s,a reso■ s,

these κso■ s arc a joy o cycle“on.0血 cr eXCellCnt areaS fOr CVCling are thC UDDer

most of thcm in StaJcska,DolenJSka and

sttinja v」 ley inも ta,こ rskご the s∝ av」 ley, the l【 rka Valley and,in Koroこ ka,the E)rava

Valley. Rolmember that bikes a・ e banned from the tails in Triglav N■

iond Pak and

all moorways. It is not」 ways ealy to rent bicycles and

rnounレlin bikes in Slovenia.Places to rent thenl are listed in the Getting Around s(x,‐ tions of each town,and the tourist office ill

PrekinurJe and covered in this guide.They 征e excenent places nOtjust br`鯰 饉ng the curc'but for relaxing and mccting peoplc.

Only two― Dolenjske Toplice and Radenci― are edly spatowns as such,with S」 ゛ J`f∝ 1めOu thcm. thatdiStinCtiVef″ ― ″‐ ε Others,like Atomske Toplicc and Caじ Z Tlenne,are loud,brash places dedicated to all the hedonistic Pursuits you care to irnagine.

I.jubUana Can arrange bike“ ntalS thrOugh‐

The Banovci spa nea Vё l老 ej,about 13kin souh of Murska Sobota in Prekmuゴ e,is

out the year.()thein″ ise, your best bet is

reserved for naturists.

dways camp siじ s.

Many reso■ s use me trendier ltdianた ″″ι for`spa'instead ofthc proper Slovcnc word

Prava Pot―

Goodway(● 061-131 7114;

1317186)江 Slovenska ces● 55b in Liubljana organises cycling tours of fax 061‐

ο ″J諮 ′ ). P′ ′ Or`′ rα ν `(hCdtt reSO■ “

SIovenia between Junc and ScPtelllber, inclucling an eight‐ day 250km lone of

Paragilding,Baliooning&Flying

Dole● ska bllowing the Krka River br

Paragliding iS t,CCOFning inCreaSingly

US$446 and a more dificuit 290km cight‐

popular in SIovenia,cspccially around Lake

day one of Gore]ska lor US$415.Prices

Bohinj and at Bov∝ in Gorenjska;at thc lamr you cm jump in tandcm paragliding

includc rneals and accornrnodation;if you don't have your own wheeis you'1l have to pay US$60 extra.

fronl the uippercable― car station to the Kanin

ski slopes and descend some 2000rn down into the 13ovcc Valley.

Caving

()nc of the nlost active ballooning outits is the Littlc Dragon Club(● 061-1272534)

()f SIovenia's670()registered caves,about

atLanskacesta350 in LJubljana.Sec Activ‐

tWO dOZen are ODCn tO tOunStS.「 hC VaSt mttOrity Of thC riCheSt OneS― Sk∝ jm,

ities in that chapter lor detalls.

Postoina,Krttnヽ PImina,Pivka,P“ di田la

― are in the kな st areas of P

morska and

Notranjska,butthere are many icc caves as wellincluding one Open to thQ public above

the Upper SavinJa Valey ln Staerska.Not all ofthe lil■

estone caves are lit by clectncity

or open regularly though.1ピ lou can learn tO `potholc'一 descencling with a guidc through tunnels into the bowels of the carth― in the

Kanin Mountains nea・ Bovec. Clave diving is apopular spo■ in SIovenia but is penllitted only under the supervision

Every self― rcsPCCting town or city in Slovenia scems to have an ailstrip Or acro‐

drorne these days cornplete with an οた′b whose nlenlbers will “ secing'. “ take you `night‐ The Ljubuana‐ based Aeronautical Association of Slovenia enthusiastic aι

fax o61‐ 222 (Letalska Zveza Slovenije;● ′ 504)at Trを aさ ka ccsta 2 has a cornpletc list or see Activities in the following sections lor details:Novo Mesto(Dole■ sk→ ;Lake Bled

(Goκ niska):SlovenJ Gradec(Koroこ ka); POnoro2(PnmOrSka).

Ofa professional gり ide.([,avc diving has been

dOne a POstOjna,Sk∝ jan and in the tunnel 江 Wild Lakc(Ditte JezeЮ )near ldrija.

Goif

Sadly, three divers have drOwned at VVild

The薫メs a 27-hole golf course at Bled, an 18‐ hole one at MokHceく こ ;astle in I)olengska

Lake over the past scveral ycars.

and aninc― holccourse in Lipica(Prirnorska).

Facts for the Visitor―

Language Courses 57

Birdwatching

from ecology resean3h in Novo Mesto to

´、 lthough many Slovenes don't know it, Slovenia has some ofthe best birdwatching

working with Gypscs near Murska Sobota.

in central Europe with well over 300 species

spotted here.Thc LJub」 ana Marsh(均 ub‐ ljansko BaJc),Lake Ccrknica and Seё ovle salt、 vorks are especially good for sighting aquatic and other birds like thc black heron and kestrel,and the arrivalofthe white storks in Prekmur」 e in Apnl is a wonderful sight.

′ Γhcre's noguidebookdcvoted speciically to ο thC b■ dS OfS10Venia,buttte Lα ″″G″ ″′′ “ 8.99) ″′β′αs(2/.Bri″ れ αれグE“ ο ′ “useful as is lν ′“ `(UK￡ 物′ ο力βJ綺 グs is velry `“ `ο 」 ″ Eα s″ z″ E′ ο Pι (Hamlyn)by Gerard “ Gorman(UK￡ 16.99). l力

・ he rnost fanlous school for learning SIOvene.is thc (llentre for Slovenc as a I・

Second Language (1日 .061-176 9382 or 會 061-1769238;fax 061-1257055)試

the Univcrsity Of巧 ubljana's Faculty of Alls,

cesta 2.

′ rhcre are two― weck

winter courses in Fcbrua・ y for US330,fouト

wcck summer Ones in Julyお r USS625 as ′ 、 、 ell as an intcnsive course running frorn ()ctoberto Mayう or US$1850.Pnces do not include roorn and board. C)thcr prlvate schools offering Slovenc as

a disciplinc in巧 ubuma are the Miklo“ EducatiOnal Ccntre(● 061-322 791 or 鬱

Accornlnodation in Slovcnla runs thc ganlut

from riverside cainp sites, cosy gο s′ 」 ぶOα rinns、 and fal.nhOuscs tO clcgant castle hotis in DolenJSka and Stacrska.Slovenia countt some 78,000bedsin toレ 11-more than a third of them in hotels― so you'1l seldorn have trouble finding accolllinodation to 61

yourbudgetexceptatthe hcightofthc scason (July and August)on the cottt,誠 Bled or

BO

可 Or in巧 ubliana・ Acconllnodation is ncvcr rc`」 ly cheap in SIOvcnia,andthere arラ alot of`hi(lden'costs. First of all, viltually every municipality

LANGUAGE COURSES

Aζ kcrё cva

ACCOMMODAT:ON

eva cesta 26

'061-1334016)at Miklogiё andCene Stup″ Centcr(● 061-1327223)江 ｀ 4ojkova cesta 71. Courses of about 100 ヽ hours start at about USS450.The TIC in LJubljma has a list ofprivate tutors uscd to tcaching loreigncrs.

WORK ■'ravellcrs on tourist visas in Slovenia are not supposed to acccpt clnployment,but inany

end up teaching English(going r■c from DM25iper houo or even domg alidc work

levies a tourist tax that can add 100 to 300 SI・ I｀

tO yOur bill(per perSOn per night)and

some places charge feesう or reglslation and

insurance(100 SIT'or under)and 30%or or stays of less than thコ cc highcr extra う nights.IIotcls and canlping grounds almost always insist on holding your passpoll:or identit5′ documcnt during yourstay.11lis can be a real paln when trying to change nloncy and even disastrous、 vhen the staff are not as ericient as they shOuld be.I alinOstlei tOwn t、

′ ice without nll■ c.

Camping ln surnrner,carnping is the cheapest way to

go, and there are conveniently located Cm■ Ping gЮ undS(物￨〃′リーabOut hCe‐ d。 n `り offlcial ones and lots more independent ones ―in all a∝ as ofthecountry.Yiou don't always nced a tcnt;solnc calnp sites have tents on sitc and incxpcnsivc bungalows avallablc as well. lΓ he

three best canlping grounds for thosc who wantto expcricnce the inountalns orthc sca ac Zlatorog on Lake BohinJ,Spik

at Gozd Matuljck nea Krmjska Cora and Jczcro Fiesa near Piran,though they can be 」arnined

in SuFnlner PriCeS Vary aCCOrding tO

for foreign inns without work pennits.An organisation called MOST (● 061‐ 125 8067;ね x061-217208)at Breg 12 in Ljub‐

the site and the season,but expcct to pay

lj ana, which is part of the Service

ctanPing grounds here offer discounts of5 to

htCmaiOnal CiVil(SIC),OrganiSeS Summer

10%if you sign in with a Camping Cad htemttiOnd(CCI).

｀ VOrk

CarnpS in S10VCnia On prOり ects ranging

anywhere between 600 and 1600 SIT per person anight.Aboutone― thirdofthcoficial

58 Facts for the Visitor―

Accommodation

though inany Slovcnes do― without ever

egory l roorns are I)M16 to I)M20 pcr p〕 rson,Catcgo57 Ⅱones arelD l13 to DM16

lighting a ic.

and Caじ go,HI Юoms

It is fOrbi`iden tO cainp`rOugh'in s10venia

DMll Ю DM13.

The price quoted is usu」 ly

Hoste:s a Student Dormitories ()nly a half― dozen hostels in Slovenia are

κgistered wi■ the Holiday AsscЮ iadon of

S10Venia(P∝ itniSkaZVeZaS10VCnlC;IZS), ■le nationd hostl organisttion.They arc in

BIcd,KOpeL ttub」 ana(two),Manbor and

Roglao Conmct Mladi Tunst(●

061‐ 125

926())江 Sdendrovaulica4inljub」 ana.You are neverrequired to have a IIostelling lnter―

natiOnd(HI)Card tO Stay tt hOStlS here,but

it somedmes earns you a sinall discount or

loraminimum

three nighL If yOu'c staying a shoner time (and yOu a・ e uSu」 ly WelCOme t。 ),yOu'I have to pay 309,and soinedrnes as much as 50%inore.■ 'he pnce ofapnvate roonl never

DM9f∼ 」lable) st tax.An extm bed is 20%on bp.

includ∝ breakfな t(DM6Ю or tou

some Ofthe Oricesin the tOwns and cities

lnentioned earlicr also have holday aparト ments avallable that can aじ cominodate up to six.One forヽ vo people could go for as low as l)ヽ 445

or as high asiE)M75 per night.

cancellation of the tounst tax.

A large pordon of Slovenian pupils and students live away fronl horne du ng the school year and sleep in a college dornlitory 1'α

ユjご ο″,.SOme OftheOneSin珂 ubUma,

Manbor,Idtta ct acceptお `′

ign trave■ ers

“ for a bed in summer for between 1200 SIr in adornnitory to 2500 SI「

Privi“ le

for a singlc roorn.

Pensions&Guesthouses Pensions and iguestllouses corne by several ″Zピ ο″is,ofcourse,a naines in Slovenia.A′ ′

pension but rnore cominonly it's called a gο sr′ ぶ ,an inn orrestaurant with accornnlo‐ `ι ″″ daiOn● οζjぶdι

β Or SOmeWheК out back.'rhey are'upSt rnO「 e expensive than hosに ls but cheaIЮ r that hoじ ls and oien youronly choice in slnalltowns and vllages.

Roolmls&Apart:nents

The systenl of lctting private roonls to trav‐

ellers is not as developed or as widespread ぉ it is in,say,Hungary,but you'1l ind ttem avallablc through tourist of罰 ces and travel

電 enCieS a Bled,BOh珂 ,BOV∝ ,CejC,LOL

′ Gcncrally sPCaking,a gO∫ ′ ′ ″α serves lood and dink only but some have rooms avall‐ ′ able as well. rhc distinction between a gostilna and agostiSё e isn'tvery clear―

even

to most Slovenes nowadays.

Kopet KranJSka Cora,巧 ubljana,Piran, Po■ oroを ,Lsqna,Radenci

and Rogぶ ka

Fannhouses

Siatina.Make sure you understand exactly where you'1l be staying; in cities sorne

Some 230 working fanns in Slovcnia ollier accominodation to paying gucsts and,lor a

pnvat roolns a・ e quite far frOm the centre. You don't have to go through agcncies or

truly relaxing break,they can't be beaten.

tou

house itself or in alpine―

マiou

either stay in private rOorns in thc farin―

course,you have no recourse ifthings dOn't

style guesthOuses sorncwhere nearby.Many ofthc fanms Offer activltles such as horse l「 lding, kayaking,

st offices:ally house with a sign reading

'meals th■ rooms at av“ lable.Of

`Sο ら ′

work out,but if you've scen tlle roorn and

trekking orcycling and a1low you to help out

understand thc pricc,what could gO wrOng?

with the farm work― if you're intcrested.

In Slovenia, pnvatc rooms`re rankcd according to categolγ・ Category l rooms

The farms theinselves can ralge fr01n places where 01d MacDondd would feel at honlc to not much inore than a rn()dern

have their own shOwer Or bah,categOry Ⅱ ones havc running water in the roolm and a shower or bath in the corrldOr,ICategol)′

III

rooins have no basin or tap in the rOOm. ces vary according to the town and season but in BOhitt at prCSCnt,お r eXamplC,Cat‐

P

pension with a vegetable patch and orchard. Thc latteris especidly tnic at burist destina‐

tiOnSlike Bled and nearthe coast「 Ylou'll ind much mOreis。 lated farmsteads wih uvestα )k

md vincyards in Sttterska and Dolcnjska

Facts for the Visitor―

ABC Farm an(l Countryside Holidays

Food 59

tion,contact the Protocol Service(● 064-

061-576127)at UlicaJoを etaJama 16 in巧 ubjana Or at Bmik airpo■ (● 0“ -261 684;fax 064‐ 261669)oversecs rnuch of the farnlhOuSC aCCOFninOdatiOn in S10Venia.ItS agent in thc UI〈 【is SIovenia l)ursuits

221133;fax 064-221551)at Brdo Castle in

(1日

'01763-852646;fax 01763‐ 852387),14 Hay Steet,Steeple MIorden,Royston,He■ s

slovenian f。

SG8 0PE,England.

by its neighbours'cuisines.FrolTI Austna, ′ ′ ι た,illed it's sausage rた Jο basa),strudel(zα ッ

(● /fax

Roughly expect to Pay abOut I)M30 per person in a 2nd catcgory room with shared bath and b“ akfastin C 10W Seお On(frOm Scptemberto mid‐ Deccmber and from mid‐ Janu=y Ю Junc)to DM45 per person br a lst category roorn with private bath and meds in the high season(July and August).

PredoslJe.

F00D The mostimportant ming to κmember about

。d isthatitis heavily innuenced

″ (curd cheesc), with fruit,nuts andノ or s々 ′

The

α iener SChnitZel(D“ ″ and Ⅵ√

`Z`た ′ た9β ,″ ο蔵(pOutO dumplings) 'StJ Z“ “ 0)。bViOuSly haVe ltdian ο′ α (riSO■ rι を

raVi011-like燿 and

'・

APartinents for groups of up to eight people

Ongins,and Hungar)′ has contnbutcd gο l物 ,を jた ″ αζ(piquant ChiCken Orbeef (gOulaSh),p・ α l′ `SteW')and′ α′ αJ′ ,た `,thinwith panCakeS illedc. with jam or nuts and topped chocol江

are also avalable.There's no minimum stay

I)istinctively SIovenian dishcs are prepared

but you ntust pay 301%nlorc if it's less than thrcc nights.PHccs at veつ ′popular destina‐ tions like BICd and Iン OgaFSka I)01ina arC

Withむ α″C′ ,gЮ atS that Can be madC frOm

highct

braided 10avcs lnade around tllc holidays.A 」 treat iS`m。 ■led b“ ad'0お α″々,ツ カリin

buckwheat,baricy or corn.Slovenian bread fた

″り iS rnCdly eXCCncnt,especmly the

Hoteis

“ which three tyIЮ S Of dOugh(buCkWheat,

Slovenia's 180 hotels are inore expensive than the{other accom■ lodation options and

Wheat and COrn)aCr。 lled up ald baked. Most Slovenian ineals start With soup,

the rates vary according to season,with July and August being thc peak scason and Scp‐ teln“ r/October and May/June the shouldcr ones. In L」 ubtana prices are constant all year.Many resort hotels,Particul:道 ly on the coast,are closed in winter.As hotels seldom

usually chicken or becf broth with little egg

levy a surcharge for stays of one or two nights,they're worth considenng if you'rc only passing through.

As with inany other countries in thc region, hotel standards in Slovenia vary enon.nously, and it's often difficult to tell What'S Wh■ until yOu'Ve Stepped(Or SiCPt)

inside. Hopefully the Siovenian ・I:ourist

Boaぜ s

new star― rating system will soi th江

out.

“ llis is for the and nlove on to ainain coursc.'I・ mOSt part meat(″

placesto stay in Slovenia arethe casde hotels atlC)toё ec andMokrice..rhe Protocol Service of the Republic of SIovenia owns several inagnificent properties with accominoda―

tion,including】Brdo and Strinol castles near

Kranj in Goκ ttska and he Vila PodЮ

ttnik

Dolna in巧 ubljana.For inbrrna‐

,With the faVOuritCS

`Sο bCing pOrk rSツ ′ ″ ,Ve」 rた ル″″α),beef ガ″αり

′ a″ α,and,in rgο ッ

season,gaine like deer .One CXCellent prepaκ d me■ iS′ rぶ ′ ″αり “ air― dricd,thinly sliced hanl that is nothing οSC,“ ″οfrom whcrc likc thc slimy lt」 ian′ 昴

(S′

,

it gets its naine.

For some cason chicken fρ jぶdα ″ι iS nOt `り as corninon on a Slovenian rnenu as turkey

夕 α″,and goose rgο り.Slovenes are big ““ Of fiSh (′ ι eaterS わαりand Other SeafOOd, though away frorn the coastit's usually trout (′

AlTlong the flnest and lmost expensivc

at Roを na

α″εプ οtt Or gο ツ noodleS(た οた リ タα′みαz″ る

οS″ν)

Sloveniais hardly paradiscforvcgctarians though this is changing and you're sure to ind a fairfew ineat_less dishes On any lnenu. Dumplings made wi■ cheese 6rr“ たヶ,and

Often with chives or tarTagon added are widely avallable as are dishes like gο らοッ α ″ ′ ″ (muShrOOm riSOttO)and deep‐ f ed cheese rο cッ rri sJり .Anotherboon for veggics `ο

60 Facts for the Visitor―

Food

αリーa α′ iS that S10VeneS10Ve fК Sh Sdad rSο ′ nlost un― Slavic Partiality―

and you can get

onc any place,even in acountryside gostilna.

ιび″α ″s′ αッ″ αι〃α,sells A milk bar r〃 ′

Restaurants Restaurants go by nlany namcs in Slovcnia, butthe distinction is not always very precise. Atぬ e top of thc heap,a κs′ αッ拓αcJα is a

yoghurt and othcr dairy products as well as

rcstaurant whcrc you sit down and arc

たοβ,Jam‐ ■llCd ralSed dOughnutS ttat arC “ tasty. very

scrvcd.A gο

Slovenian cuisine boasts two cxcellent jε α,alinost a and very diricrcnt desse■ s.P。 ′

it's nlore like an inn,with rusic d6cor and

national institution, is a kind of nut roll

Sa″ ο 力α″sraッ rα εJα iS a“ lf― SCWiCC ′οSrた え

(thOugh OtCn made With SaVOury■ 1lingS

cstablishrnent where you order fronl a

。)ctten a■ er a nle」 。r with comee or tea εα丘onl Prekl■ urJC is du ng the day.G′ ια″′ a■ ■ ch concoction of past‐ y filled with poppy

counter and sornedrncs eat standing up.An ο々″′ル″ れたαand a b`ル SCrVC SimplC,ね St ご″,α food like grilled ineats and sausages;aた “ rnay havc snacks,butthe emphasis hcreis on

t。

sceds, walnuts, apples and/or sultanas and cheese and toppcd with creanl.It's deinitely not for dleters.

I1lou should havc no problem getting a

snack between incals in Slovenia; rnany he nlost ipopular is a Balkan inlport called b″ ″ ′た,flaky pastry stuffed witll rncat,cheesc α and or cven apple not unlike Grcek rj´ ο 二 r)′ people catsornething hot atabout 10 arn.・

I｀

s。 ld

at Outside staus thrOughOut the land.It is very cheal)and filling but can bc quitc grcasy.(:)ther snack foods include:

sriJ″ ′or

gο sr′ ぶ ごι―there's sup―

posed to be a difference―

has walters too but

usudly(bui not always)nalond dishcs.A

ざ′ dα r″ a sells swccts and icc drinking.As′αぶ creain whilc aた αッ α a provides coffee and pastries.

“

Many restaurants and inns have an inex― pensive set nlenu at lunch r′ ιッ ″οtο s′ ′ ο, ￨″

advcrtiscd on a blackboard outside. Threc courscs can costlcss than 60()SI´ R It's il■ portant to remenlber that not nlany

′ Slovenes eatin restaurants in cities or to、 ん ns

unlcss thcy havc to bccausc of work or they're entertaning.At the wcekend,most will head 5 or 10km outoftown fora gostilna or gostiζ ё e thcy know will scrve thern good,

ご′ッα′ごだ′_spicy nleatb』 Is Of beef Or pOrk P′ ra― another way to spell.pizza' P4た Sた αツたα―SPiCy,SCめ ian― Style meat pattieS ―chips(F“ench iies) Pο 4ル′ ―shish kebab Rα を ′ yゅ '7:σ力″:″ 0ソ たα― hot dog

horne― cookcd food and local winc at afi3ord―

able prices.For the traveller、

′ ithout a car,it

can bc dif」 Ecult reaching these littlc `finds'

but I'vc included as rnany as practical.

`α

Menu items AInlost every sit― down rcstaurant in

Slovenia has a multilinguai nlenu with dishcs translatcd into Englisih, Italian, (〕 ernlan and sornedines evcn Frcnch.Butthe language used is sOinetirnes inaccuratc or iess then appctising;`13ecf Mouth in Salad'

and`Fannaccous I)ishcs'would havc inost would― be diners scratching their hcads or running for thc doo■ And thcn there`u℃ all thosc lists with `daily recornlnendations'

′ S′ ″ οdα ″ο…りthat a℃ (`Dα ″ ″ο″

■equently

in Slovene only.

ThCお 110Wing iS a menu Potica,a Slovenian speciality,is traditiona‖

baked ln a round cerarnic mould.

y

dリ ルJ′ お σι

samplcr with dishes listcd in the way most `リ SIovenian rcstaurants wOuld group theln.It's not conlplcte by any means,but it will give

Facts fOr the Visitor―

yOu a g。 。d idea Of whatto expect.IFor inore

ng wOrds,sce the Language

fOOd and Orde

Guide atthe baCk ofthe book. It's custolnary to wish otherS at your table 〃 '(`BOn appetitl')bCfO“ Starting

`Dο ♭

`rた

Food 61

Dishes Made to Order― JedF ρ0 ヽ ia“ oι ′ ′ υ ′ a― braised beef with onions ご′ ι″ι ″αbだοι ″ ―livcr Gypsy― style c′ ga″ sλ α ル′ :`′∫ ガ z″ z´ た―Wiener schnitzel oreaded cutlct of D“ ′ vc」 Or pOrk)

your ineal.

′j″ ′―`farmer'st^t'ofsmoked meats K"ι ι ル″′り′

L″ Or ￨● :"● 」 ●o[u Stan373-月 1引 "'OZ● ) ″綺d"θ P膊 ■ ■ ,詢■ D翻 2● 駿b“ ―摘 嗜 F,“ ,レ ,″ "“ d∝"1● エ∝S'■d“ 絆饉bL' `。 "― `ロ ,,ith m,ly。 ■ ,■ ■ ,o kJbd口 いm W C■ 燿 M,旋 ""― "“ 卜∝“口 drdnd K腑 !Mm(pm‐ ル″ κ′ 」 li′“ ″` ":― 山」 ● bLよ 。11■ ロ 1頭 。 )Ⅵ`″ “ ,Uo鵬 Mに“ ぃ0施 moko`,∝ 8h ●,i,● “inan,,“ ■`J∝ R:仮 `1-■

αzgο ο夕 α∫ κ■ ●,7S々αた′

and sauerkraut

`,,●

`i―

e J“ 力 ′ _soup of me day ″ ブ “ aノ ″力α― CrCaned muShOOm SOup αた″

Soups― ッ ,“ D″ ι Cο

G。 ン "ν グα′

"″ :_beef brom wi血 α z″ za″ ε

1■ lc cgg

`Й noodlcs

α―pea SOup G´α 力 ον αノ力 “ソ 力α -OmatO SOup Pa´α′Z″ 此ο `′ “ tCd ry● ■Our SOup P″ そ α′ 戒α -10郎 Zン ル4′ αツ″a′ ″力α― vegetable

thiCkened With

soup

warm staners-7oP′ e za“ he Jedor ibp′ eP"Jed′

″た D"b″ヴ abッ jζ ′ ヶ:―

dumplings of cot● ge chccse

and chives

οο Oε ッ ″,sI″ s″″ぉた "alあ tartar saucc

―dccp― fhed cheesc wi血

め―omelctc O"た ′ss,″ 活 ″メ Rだο′ a z

gο bク

with ch(澪 se/ham

“ nso■ O With mushooms

ο ι ο ″S勉 ―Spaghetd bO10gneSe ″う ,ag′ ″ Z:々 ″ F― raViOli of ChCCSe,baCOn md ChVeS ":―

Ready‐ Made Dishes― P=わ Vりθ″e “ Pa or Coわ Ma Jed‖′ Bο g^α ごgο ′ ′ JO`●

Jed′

b(Ef goulash sewed in a pot

―beans, `― sauerkraut and potatoes or barlcy

cooko(l wih s」 t pork in a pot ′ ″ο boiled beefwith hose― κ′ :α れ a gο ν ′ ′:″ αs力 ´

"― “ radish :“ 」 κ ″a οba″ zりあツ を″,C」 ―ChiCken StCW Or “ `gumbo'with buckwhctt groats P'``′ ″ ′ぶdα ″ roa,t chicken `c― P″ λ ″ aル :″ 」″″うにa S tiSJj"Z′ ケ′ ―SmOked `″ “ pork nbs will sauerkraut ―b`vicy stew Wim smoked pork nbs Rj`´ ′ ″漱′―ЮaStIЮ rk 詢i″S勉 ′θ

nlustard

ο―Camiolan sauSage with `た

ム,“ bケ ″ 々fZ“ %θ た―breaded CudCt With CheeSe 「′ αZα ′ ワーn■ xed gnil ο″ ぶ ″:ο “ ∫ "´ c― fhcd Chickcn Oε ッ ″′ ′ぶ&“ ′ “ 一cudct f ed in egg batcr Piar:ぶ た ,ζ ′ z′ た “ ″z´ たSぶa,"′ j″ ο層 ― tWkCy Steak Wiぬ P“ ″:ο ν τ “whl“ mushrooms

Fish― 月力)e ″z″ %s′ ο B´a′κ′

sea basS in butter

4夕 ′ ″″α"― κ″力α′ ′ο∫ ―boiledgnlled trOut `″ ″ ―gniled sqШ d ′″ αZα Lば ″′orり 物ι ″ `″ “ ″″―SOle in white wine ルbrsた ,Iお ′ッb´ ル ′ "ツ ν″ ′ 」。sJ:`_nied cod οε θ だ´′ わ″ ―gnled sca bream と″ “ だ ′―g llcd sardincs P′“ `′ `囮 Rル ′ α′ ι Oζdα ―scafood,1江 e Ska″ ′:― scanpi(prawns) Skο クた´― ShelliSh(CIaΠ S,inuSSelS

CtC)

′oge or P口 鷺 力e Side Dishes― P“「 AJあッ ′ο″a」 を εj― buckwhca“ Om “ groats “ n B“ dた ′―squash or pump _caulinowげ 。′ α ′ α 。r滋 曖′ cソ ′ pe“ c■aヵ _swca “ κο″″ ′―Carots り j“ 鷹―b“ ad dum口 ingS κ″力οツ “ Palcakcs ″:″ c,― small い) O″ ″ た″ j″ Or′ ο メ chips(Frcnch "′ j″ ― "― mashcd“potatocs P,″ た oヵ′ “ ′ P´α ″た。 ′:″ _med pOt凛 。ぃ 必 Rセ ーncc “ ルj″ 酵―Spinκ h ―Sdng beanS :′ わι Sr″ ″ p`sta 2,s″ ″ :″ `― ′ ′′″た 力′―side vcge●bles z´ ′ ´ Vaν ″ “

a3o Sο ′ ον a sο 麟滋―bean s」 ad ο′ ′―PicHed cucumbers κ セた ″η″● “ a``― cucuinber salad K“ ″αガ dァ ta sο ι ●″ -lomtto s」 ad Pa´ α ′だ ,ッ a sο ι "j滋 ′ Sa― picHcd bedЮ ot ΦcaS) R′ ′ ′ `α ζ α,:a sο ι ′ ―scaSonaV:mxcd sdad S′ zο ′ 6た ″ ′ “ α ―`Serbian S´う sκ●sο ′ “ sdad'oftolnatoes and gr〈 En

Saiads― F:老

j∫

`α

′ α′ α_lctmce salad ′ ′ ″ sο ′ "ppcrs Cabbage Salad 多′ ″α″ zθ

'滋 "―

62 Facts for the Visitor―

Dnnks

Fruit― Saaりθ 4″ α ″αs―

the insipid LJutomcr and Laζ

Rieshngs in favour of Rcnski Rtizlng (a truc(〕 ernlan

pineapple

Bア いた ′ ッーI)each

Riesling), Beli Pino!(Pinot Blanc),

ε′ JI′ ´―CheriCS び′ J′ ケ a― plum C″ ″,′ ―grapeS ″′ζ た α―pear “ttο ―apple Jα bο ′ α d´ ―stmw詭 es =ο κο ο′―SteWed fruit(mmyw"S) "′ L`ζ″ 滅:― h″:cinuts Ma′ :″

Tranunec(1lrarniner)or Sipon(Furnunt),an

wЫ tes. POSa可 e iS the rCgion ninning frOm eaStern Sta」

rasP“ mes

`― ー 「 ル α″″ cク apricd θ″ j― walnuも Plο α″da― orange "`● SOur ChCrneS(■ :ぶ ′ り ,力

l′

`―

erska across the Sava lRiver into

Dole■ skaaldBelaKrttina.Thsrcgion pro― duccs both whites and rcds,but iも most ねmous wine is Cviё ek,a dry light κd, 」mOstrOs6 winc thatis disunc■ y slovenian. The Primorska wine regiOn cOncentrates on reds,the most fainous being Tleran inade fronl Slovenian Refoζ k grapes in the Karst region.Itis a ruby― red,peppery wine with

10rel10S)

DessertJ'Ch(蟹 )se― Srad′ Oα lS′ ″ うο′ :″ν :た た―apple strildcl `″ κ″F― S“ u』 nuも θ′ ッ α′0′ “ Siovenian nut roll `わ Pα ″ た `Ca― ,1● ″ ι ●dο/ο lに Йノdο 滋 α′ ―thn pan― "′ `:″ `z′ cakcs witt mameladJnutych∝ ol江 e ―laycrs of■ alS′ pastry with P“´ た ″ sた αgib● ″

Jα

lο

,ι

"“ fl■ lit, nut, cheese and p()ppy― secd filling and topped with crealn Sα′ ″α々 ′′a― ■uit salad with whippcd c“ lal】 n S'70ν α′ 0′ζ da― CheeSe platC `cα

´dο ′ ″ ■ ce cream 7b′ lα ―cakc

Sι

high acidity that gOcs perectly with pttut

ham and game.Othcr wmes■ Om tisregion Tc Mavazija,a yellowish white from the coastthatis light and dry ald good with ish, and led Mcriot,especially the one from the vipava valley.

On a Slovenian wine label,the irst word

usually identines where the wine coines frorn and thc sccOnd the grape varictal:

Vipavski:Merlot,Mariboski Traminec ctc. But it's nOt dways ke that.Some be`肛 naines according to thcir place ofO

DRINKS

gin such

time ofthe Romans,21d inaly of its wines

as Jeruzdemё an,Bizeljё m,H」 o差 帥 There is no α ar」ο ″εο″″り′ ′′ ′ `′ in Slovenia:た ο″r“ο such ′ ′ ´ ′″ο′ο´ ′た′ ο``as is a trade_ lnark proteclon that usually― but not in

today a・ e Of a very high qudity indeed.

every instance― suggests a certaln standard.

.

Wine

SIovenia has been ntalting wine si:lce the

Unfortunately, ■10st foreigners know Slovcnian winc― if at滅 1-frOm the`cl cheapo'bottles Of wht ttutOmer mcsling or LaSki ltiesling served at college parties. For the nlost pan,these`u・ e dull,unrnenlor―

able WineS(the巧 utOmer Can be Slightly SWeet),but a trip tO S10venia w■ l convince

VVhen choosing winc, look lor thc wOrds ツ″ み ″Sた οツ′ ″ο (p“ mium Wine)and a gold

“ 。1“ οSrれ οッヵ lあ el,た に ο(qudity Wine)and a SilVer One,'ンand″ α″′ ″ο (table Wine) ′ Z″ ο ツ with a brOnze― c。 10ured label.They can be rcd,white or ros6 and dry,semi― dry,semi― sweet or sweet.Vintage is not as impo■ ant

you that nlost ofthe best wines stay at hOrne.

with most S10vcnian wines as it is with

For inorc detailcd inforinadon,cOntact the

French and Califontian ones.

Slovenian Acadeiny ofヽ Vinc(宙 062‐ 779 198; fax()62-779()()9; sva‐ veitas@sva_

RadgOnska Penina from Gornja Radgona.

Vcntas.si)at Graska ulica 2,2250 Pt可 Slovenia counts 14 distinct wine―

.

growing

areas with sorne 22,000 hectares under cul―

tivation,but thcre are just three inaJOr rCgiOnS.POdrav」 c(`on the Drava')extends frOm nOrth― CaStStajerSkaintOPrCkmulemd prOduCCS WhiteS all■ lost exclusively.Eschew

The bcst sparkling winc is Zlata Slovenes usually dnnk wine with ineals or socially at home;it'srそ re tO see people sit dOWn tO a bOttlC at a Caf6 or pub.As else―

Whcre in centd Europe,a bottle or glass Of miner」 watcris ordcred」 ong with the wine Whcn eating.It's a diHlerent story in sununer When SpritZCrS(WinC C001e∬ )ofred or w に

Facts for the Visitor―

Drinks 63

wine rnixc(l with rninerd water are con―

Crni BaOn and a shandy called Radiet

sumed in vast quantides. All of the wine― producing areas have a `winc rOad'(ッ ,4sた αε ιs″ ,ortwo-20 in dl

LaSko's alcohol― free breW is called(〕 ren and

its shandy is called Roler. It also makes a `light'beer callcd Lalko.

ツれたα In apub(′′

―that you can flollow in a car or on abicyclc. These a薫 )outlined on the useful and updated

brewed O.5LmugsorO.3Lones.Both 'draughtloc」 beeriS ly drunk in

ονι″ね″ π′MαP(ImagO)aValable frOm "り mOstbookshops m Liubuana.Alongthe way, you can stop江 ■lc oCCaSiOnd Ce■ ar(た ルリ αin wine Offering wine tastings orat aッ j″ οたた tOwns Or cities(Maribor,IMetlika,PtW,

and importedbeers are alsoavallablc at pubs,

S′

Rogagka Siatina,DObrOvo ncそ I NovaGonca and Bκ ttCC). Solne impoialt winc WOrds aコ e:

shOps and supemarkets in O.5L′ botdes or αりι′'is how cans nleasuring O.3L. `力 lα zグ ´ you say`Cheers!'in Slovene. Im:portant beer words: ルfα ι O′ :ν ο―bccr mCaSunng O.3L Piソ

0-bcer

″たo一 pub/bcer hall αわ′ル0-lag∝

Piッ sた οッ :″ ο一vintage winc スz滋 ッ B′ わッ :″ ο―white wine B″ ′ zga″ ′″car― spriし er(Wine COOler) `c orζ lZ`― bOttle B″ たケ ― ν rcd(literaly`blκ k')WinC :"ο σ "ο ο ttO― quality wine s"ο ν Kbttο ッ κOzα ,`c― glass :“ 。_muncd winc K■ Й ′″。ッ :″ ο―table winc Ⅳα″:z″ ον P′ ′ ′ ソ ′ ″ο―spakling wine `′ ′οなι α ο―semi― sw∝ t `晨 0-SeFni― dry/■ ledium P10ι s“ 力 Rο sι ―ros6 wine ′0-sWcet Winc Sια d滋 ,or D`s′ ″ “ S,ル ο―dry И′0-winc α―wine shop witt tastings И″0″ た Иぉた α物￨″ α―winc list ―wine cc■ な Иなた ●た :′ ′ Иた,た ,力 α″―wine ba″ room οッ :″ ο―preiniurn wine 励 ″sた“ “

Beer I〕

cer is very polpular in Slovcnia,especially

outslde the homc and arnong vounger peOple.StalCrSka hOpS(力 ″ )grOWn in the `″ ly and Widely SaVitta V」 ley are uSed 10C」 sought after by brewers frc,■ l around the world.They have been described as having the navour ofleinOn grass.

Slovenia has three brewcnes: lJnion in

Sソ

′ο′,ッ ο―d:肛 k bceノ stout 7″ ″ 7bび 0″ 0′ :ν ο―draught

becr

jた ッ ο_bccr me¨ unng O.5L 砕′ ο′′ ylだ セーΠ lug .ι

Other Drinks An dcoholc drink as Slovcnlan as wine is

α″′ セdS■ 1lCd

4:α ″

`ツ

StrOng braldy Or′ om a`,a Vanety of fiuitS but mOSt conllnonly apples,pluins and chen■ es.Another type is lヤ

gα ″ れι ′ 。を

r″

`aca)navOuFd with

`″ honcy,but thc `(。 inest is Pleterska IIruSka,a

た α ′ セ οツ pcar brandy(Or ν ク

“ c Monastcry ne:r carthusian monks atPlete● 'made by the in DolcnJSka.Thcy lct KOstajevica na Kr a pear growinto a botie that has been placed upside― down on a branch,then`pick'bottle

and PCa together and POur brandy inside. 1)nnk tOO FnuCh Of thiS Stuff and yOu'1l SCe visions of thc place thc inonks warn us all about.

激α―simgお r Mmy Slovenes enjOy aシ ′ a li■

le glass of schnapps― dunng the day as

a pick-lne‐ up.Yiou'1l probably getthe invita‐ jσ jグ j`ι ″ ο'(`Corne and have a F)″ αた′ ￨′ dЮp')moC than OnCe・ Most intem■ iond brands of soi d nks are av lable in Slovenia,but mlnerd watcr

tion `」

LJublana,Lぶ ko in me town ofth■ namc sOuth Of ccljc,ald■ e smdl Gamb nusin

from Radcnci(Radcnska)or RogaSka

Maribor.Unlon is lighte← tasting餌 ld sweeter

for tcetot」lers in pubs and bars.Juice rsο

than Zlatorog,the exccllent and ubiquitous bcer(it has about 50%ofthe market)brcwed by Lat,ko.Union also produces al dcohol‐ 缶ce beer c」 led Uni,a decent stout called

is usually boxed iuit`drink'with lots of

Slaina seemsto be the most popular ibation

た,

sugar or a drink inade with syュ lp. Italian espresso is me type ofcoffee mOst c0111■ nonly served but thick,sweet・ urkish I・

64 Facts for the Visitor― Entenainiment coffee is also popular,cspecially at hOrnc.If

you don't wantittoo swcct,say`ノ VI`s′ αグたο ′ οSJ″ '.Coffec is good everywhcrc cxccpt at“hotel breakfasts when yOu'1l aln10st ,

invanably be served a cup of lukewar■ 1, milky,crsaヒ coffee. Local people dnnk lots of herbalteas and seem to prefer anything inade with a bcrry,a

征C in巧 ublana and On thC coast,but you'11 cven ind them in smdl prOvincid towns.

C!assica:Music,Opera,Ballet&Theatre Slovenia has a 10t Of exccllent,high― brOw entertalnlncnt on offer― particularly classi―

ca music andtheatre.LJubjala」 one counts scvcn theatrcs,an opera hOusc whcre bancts

blossonl or a leaf ovcr what they call

arc also pcrforined,and two symphony

`Russian'(black)tca.It's asOdificulttoind

orchcstras. Manbor has a residcnt opera

in the shops so bring your own supply oftea bags.

company as wcll as a symphOny Orchesia,a ballet cornPany and two thcatrcs.There are

Useful words include:

also theatrcs in Celje,Kratt and Koper. Many othcr towns have chainber orchestras

￢uniⅣ 81省 顔

and string quartets that pcrfiorin in churchcs, ・ aV°

uCd bmndy

ごdη′ ツ ′ ′ ε―ChCry brandy(kirSCh) ι isο た一applcjuicc Jα 夕 ″ ―applc cidcr ο′ σ “ Jabο

:た

κα ο―cappuccino 2“ ′″ κッ α―co■ iee καッ ass′ η ′勧 ο―cOFfee with whlpped crean ι′ ′ ″ο′α滋2-leinonadc ′ И:″ ′α′ ′ :a ν ο α―rr iner」 watr P′ω 囃“ ′ Sた 」 dセリーnlOuntain― ■ OWertCa lク

`」

:s滅 ―orangcjuice “ ““apple brandy(applcjack) ν Sα ″′ Pο ″ ,α

`C― οッ た α―plunl juice Sο 々― S′ :ッ

brandy

7b″ 滋 z′ ´′ο″ ― tonic

watcr with icc

ИケaИ οツ た ´―pe″ brandy Иりα々―wine brandy 多″壼″」 daヴ ーherbal tea ′ I｀

herc arc more words and phrascs in

SIovcne in thc Language (〕uide and thc

casdes,■ luscums and civic ccntrcs.

Fo:k&Traditional Music Folk‐ music pc」 onnances arc usu」 ly loc」

affars ald are very popular in Doleniska, Bela Krttina and even Blcd(especially in July and August during the Okarina World Music Festival).Crnomelj is hc centre of S10Venian f01k rnuSiC and as nlany as 50 bands playing stringc(l instrunients like the

″Ca,theレ Zο (COntrabお S),hC guitar

`″ “ likeら れどand the bjS′ ″」 Cα (lute)arC aCiVe in the arca.1llyers and iposters in thesc areas "♭

are always announcing folk nights at halls and cultural centres.

SPECTATOR SPORT In a lmd where skiing rsれ あ″の is hng,

“ chainplons, Slovenla counts sOmc world― cla,s

Glossary atthe back Ofthe book.

including Ro■ lan Perko in cross―country racing andヽ こtja DmgSiё in alpine sI」 om.

ENTERTAINMENT

But the natiOnal hero in this spOrt is the young Plinlo乞 Peterka,WOrid C〕 up holder in

Cinelma Foreign ilins aR〕 ncvcr dubbed into Slovenc

but are shown in ther Origin」 language with

SubtideS The ChOiCC,CVCn in ttubljana,iS not very grcat― one ilm usuttly travels froln

one cinerna to the next― but yOu're sun3 to find sorncthing Of interest.

Discos a C:ubs E)iscos are the inost popular fOrm Of cnter―

tanmcnt lor young peoplc and arc dways g00d fun.Thc biggest and inost rolllcking

Ski‐ Jurnping

OnCe again in 1998. IPeterka reached thc 200m mark m Planica m 1994. Oddlゝ Slovenia is Onc Of thc lcw cOun‐ tries in Europe whereお 。あ」1(″ οgο ″ι′ りiS not a national passiOn;sOrne wags have sug― gested thatin a natiOn OfOnly two rnillion it's

alnlost inlPOSSiblc to get ll people on the

ground and go for the sarne goal. Perhaps that CXplanS Why baSkCtb」 1`た οSα ″ た ′,,With ・hc Only ivc a sidc, is so popular hcre. ■

Union 01impija tcam rcigns supeme and One OfitS InemberS,the siam dunkcr Marko

Facts for the Visitor―

Thingsto Buy 65

1996.C)thcr popular spectator sports a・ c icc

ron and RogalSka Siaina lor crystal SOmc people think they're tacky,but l likc the

h∝ に yイ カο々 ,With 01lmpija ttubljana江 イリ ο″ιり,With thC the tOP,and V011eyb」 1(´ οた

traditional bechive panels r′ αィsた ι た ο″ど れた′ ,pdnted With fOk mOtiお ,CSpC―

Miliё

,was huntcd by thc Anlcrican NBA in

team■ om Celje excelling. ・I.he first(Dlympic medal won by a

Slovene was a silver won by Rudolf Cvetko at Stockholln in 1912 as Pat ofthe Austnan sabre teanl.Butthc most celebrated SIoven― ian く )lynlpic athlete is the gyinnast iLcon

cially the ones showing a devil sharpening a

gossip's tongue on a ginndstone.I knOw a few people who should hang that one uP at horne as an icon and light votive candles in 缶ont ofit.

Thc silveriligrccjcwcncry you'1lsce br

Smke」 (bom 1899),who took gold medds 江 P"is in 1924,bronzc■ Amsterdain in

cially on the coast,is notreally Slovenian but

1928 and silver at Berlin in 1936.Stukel is

a good buy nonetheless. Almost all of the

the oldest Olyrnpic charnpion in the world

shoPs are owncd and mn by ethnic Albanians

ald sill trains.

who brought the crat hcrc froln Kosovo in

SinCC indeDendCnCe, S10Venia haS WOn two bronze med」 sin rowing(Iztok Cop and Denis Zvege」 誠Bacelonain 1992)andtwo silvers at Atlanta h 1996(Andraを Vehovな in white― water kayaking and Brigita

Bukovec in 100m hurdles).At the 1994 Winter Olympics at Li■ charmerin Norway

salc in shops around the country,but espe―

southerll Serbia.

Sk cquipment and sbwear ac of vcry high qudity.Elm shs md snowboads are made in Bcgu■ c na Go“ njskem nea Bled and Alpina boots tt Z ,no■ h‐ east ofldrija. Natural renledies, herbal teas and apian

skiers Katia Koκ n,Alenka Dovttm and

products like beeswax,honey,P('llen,prop‐ o sand Юy」 jelly cmteお und in speciality

Mitja KoSir dl won bronze med」

shops around tllc country.

s.

THINGS TO)BUY

A bottL ortwo of Slovenian wine nlakes agreat gift.Buy it ioln avinotekaoradealer

For folk craft and other souvenirs in

with a large selection like Simon Bradeも

Slovenia,it's bcstto go to thc sourcc whcrc

or Vino Boutiquc in l」 ubuana(see that

v()u'1l find thc rcal thing and not inass― pro―

chapter). A couple of monasteries in

duCed kit“ h:Idtta Or ZeleZniki br l¨ e,

Dolettska― the Cisteκ ian one at Stiё na ncar lvanё na Gorica and thc(〕 arthusian one at Plcte]C― Sell thcir own brand of irewater

Ribnica う or wooden houschold utensils, BohinJ for caved wooden pipes with silver lids,Prckimu● C for Hlunganan― style black

pottew,Kropa br objects made of wrought

ko

made from fruits aldberries.It's ttagrantbut

very potnt stur.

ng There&Away

Ge

Gennaly (● 069-290274),GЮ sse Eschenheimo S● 郎se

AIR Airports&Air‖ nes

43,60313 Frankfurt

While tllere are international air,orts at M`ribor in StaJerska and Po■ oroを on the

089-2283974),Maxinlilliansplatz 12a, 80333 Munich

(●

coast in Priinorska, only Brnik airport (●

Spaln

064-222 700), 23km north― west of

(■

3-28048Я 〕 ),P¨ colManucI Grona71,08034

Bacelona

Ljubliana, receives rcgularly schcdulcd

Switzcrland

■ights.The arpOn is open daly froln 6 am to 10 pm and has a hotel booking board with

UK

telephone in thc arrivals hall and an inforlna‐ tion desk ln thc departures arca.・ I・ he lく o口 npas

(■

01-2126393),LOwenstrassc 54,CH-8(Ю

(●

0171-7344630),49 Conduit Street,London

l

Zunch

WlR 9FB

travel agency has a representative ofice,and thcre are car― rental irins,including ABC,

e巧 ublana inClude Aeronot(SU)froln Moscow,Austrian Air― othcr arlines mat seⅣ

Alpctour,Avis,Budget,Europca,Eurodol― la・ and Hertz.Therc's asO a pOst Ofnce, duty― free shoP,the Edvard Rus」 an a la carte

lincs(OS)■ om Vienna,Avioimpex(M4)

restaurant and thc lkar self‐ servicc onc.You

from SkopJe ald Swissdr(SR)from Zurich.

can changc moncy in the dcparturcs area at the Nova LJubljanska Bmka branch(o“ n

Buying l・ ickets lncaly 1998 Ad a.'s cheapestexcursion fare

weckdays 8 am to 3 pm)or atthc Kompas

(With OnC‐ WCCk adVanCe purChaSe, iXed dateS and a Saturday OVernight)frOm

newsagents(open dally from 7 aln Ю 8 pm). linked SIC13

In arrivals there's a Cirrus―

Banka ATM dispensingtolars and amachine

LondontoLjubbanawasUK￡ 210 plustaxes

that call exchange 15 diffierent currencies

of aound UK￡ 30(against a regula full― faκ economy κtum ticket of UK￡ 688);the fare

into tolars.

´ I・

increases by aboutUK￡ 25in surnmet APEX fa℃ s on thc sainc routc with Lu■ halsa via

he Slovcnian national carrier, Adria

Airways(JP;● 061-133 4336 in Ljubtana, nonstop to Ljubtana鮨 oln 17 cities,includ‐

Frankfurt and Swissair via ZOrich wcre UK￡ 245 and UK￡ 255 respectively.Adna's

ing Ainsterdarn, IBarcelona,(〕

Frankfurt― Ljubljana― Frankhrt

1日

'064‐ 223 555 at Brnik airport), flies

excursion fare was I)M530 (full econorny fare

operlllagen,

Frankfurt,London(LHR),Manchester(sea―

sonal),Moscow,Munich,Ohrid in

DM1216).Travellcrs to the B」kans might

Macedonia,Paris(CDG),SattCVO,Skop」 C,

like to know that Adria oflicrs vcry atracive

retunl facs iom London to Croatia,Macc―

Split,'Tlcl Aviv,Tirana,Vicnna and Zunch.It alsO has chancrs during sunllncr rnonths tO several othcr dcstinations,including Athcns, Istanbul and Malta. Adria ihas about a dozen ofiaccs abroad, including thc following:

donia and iBosnia― IIcrccgovina via Ljubljanalto Split and SaraJevoit'sUK￡ 240 and to Skop」

Trave‖ ers with SpeciallNeeds lfyou havc special needs ofany sort― you'rc vcgctarian or requiに a spccid dict,you'rc

Austria (●

0222-5223740),Mariahilた rstrasse 32-34,

Lavclling in a wheelchair,taking thc baby, tcrrincd of nying,whatever_let the`urline

1070 Vicnna Croatla (●

Ol-481∞ ‖),Praζ ka

u1 9,1∞ ∞

people kllow as s()on as possiblc so thatthcy

Zagcb

can nlake the necessary arrangcmcnts. Renlind thern whcn you reconfirnl your

France (●

01474295(Ю ),38 Avcdel'Op6ra,75002P″

eUK￡ 280.

is

66

Ge boo ng(atleast 72 hours befo“ dep″ tuc) and agan when you check in atthe arpO■ It inay also be wo■ h ringing a・ ound the airlines before you make your booking to .

ind out how they can handle your particular needs.

itaiy Nova Gorica is the casiest exit/entry point between Slovenia and ltaly as you can

catch up to ■vc buscs a day to/from the ltdian city of Gorizia or simply walk across the border at Roを na Dolina(Casa Rossa in ltalian).BCtヽ Veen eight and ll buSeS a day

Airports and arllnes can bc surpnsingly hclpful,but they do necd advancc wanling. Most international airports will provide escOrts froni check― in desk to plane wherc needed, and there should be rainps, liis, accessible toilets and neachable phones.ん

ng Therc&Away― Lald 67

r―

makc the run from Ankaran,me irst Кson on the Slovenian coast,to thc ltalian bordcr crossing at Lazaret,butyou'1l haveto change agaln tO reachlr TIo reach・ r

este tO the nOrth_east. este frOm the cOast it's casier

to leave frorn Iく oper.IJpto 17 buses a day go

craft toilets,on thc other hand,a:re likely to

to/fronl ■'rieste, 20km to the north― cast.

prcscnt a problem;travellers should discuss

Buscsrunfrom 6 amto7.30pmonwcckdays

this、 vitll thc airline at an carly stagc and,if

only― though thcrc is one bus on Saturday 江 7.30 pm.Thc bus stadon in Trieste is ilnmediately south― west of the tan station

neccssary,with their docto■ uide dogs for the blind will olten have to travcl in a specially pressurised baggage (:〕

in Piazza Liberta.

Thec's a bus from LJublana to Triestc

compartment wih othcr anirnds,away from their Ownet thOugh sinaller guide dogs may bc admitted to thc cabin.All guide dogs will

Monday to Saturday at 6.25 anl.Tarvisio in no■ h‐ cast lt」 y is inked with KranJSkaCora

bC StteCttO thC SmC quTmtine laWS(SiX

by twobuscs,whichnlnlMonday to Saturday

mOnthS in iSOlatiOn CtC)aS any Other anim」 when entering or rcturning to countries cur―

at 9.35 and ll.45 anl.

rently frec of rabies such as iBritain or

Croatia&Yugosiavia The coastd towns of

Australia.

lく

D)eaf travellers can ask for alrpo■

and

in_night annOuncernents tO be wnlcn dOwn おr them. Childrcn aged undertwo travcl for 10%of

opet Piran and Po■ oroを aに the best places

fOr making your way by bus to Crottian lstria.There are frequent services to Novigrd,Pore軌 Pula and Rovi可 .■ lcre's also atlcast onc bus a day Monday to Satur―

the full fare(。 r free on sonle anines)as iong

day to Rleka.

as they don't occupy a seat.′

For cities in north― western Croatia likc Varaを din and thc capital,Zagrcb,thc gate―

I｀

hey don't get a

baggage d10wancc in mis case.`skycots', baby fOOd and nappieS(diaperS)ShOuld bC provided by the airline if rcquested in

wavs ap`rt from Liubliana arc in eastern Sttterska and DolenJska.For VaraZdin count

advance.Push chairs can often be taken as

on one inonlingbus on Saturday and Sunday

nd luggage.Childrcn agcd bctwcen two

from Celje,two a day from Maibor and up

and 12 can usually occupy a seat lor halfto

tO SEX frOm Pt可 .Zagreb― bOund buSCS g0

hそ

two―thirds of the full fare. 1｀ hey do get a

from Pt可 (threc a day),Maribor(two)and

standard baggage a1lowance.

Novo Mcsto(threc). From巧 ub」 ana there's a dally bus

LAND Bus lntem onal buses do not just arrivc md depat frOm巧 ubtana;yOu Can CatCh them

to Sp t ald Rijeka at 7.40 pm.Four buses a day lcavc for Zagrcb and thcl℃ 's a depa■ ure

on Saturday and Sunday at 6.35 ani to Varaを din.

fronl cities and towns around Siovenia.Fbr an indication ofintemational bus fares from the capit」 ,sec Getting There&Away in the

町ubljana Chapter.

Ю

Novigrad,Rovi」 and Umag atl.45pm md

In Ljubljana a company caled Yatras (●

061-316975)runs buses to Croatian and

「 ugoslav cities and towns frorll the old lugoslav Alrlines ofEce at SlornSkova ulica ヽ ピ lピ

68 Getting Therc&Away― Air Travcl Glossary Alr Travel G:ossalγ

Apex Tickets Apex(`advan∞ .puに haSe exCu“ iOn')faЮ S arO uSu」 ly betW00n 30 and 40%cheaper. than仙 ‖ecOnOmy ones,but here are rest"aions.You must purchase the ucket a lea鍼 21 daVS ma‖ y14 day→ and Ю a (SOmelmeS mOFeう in adVanCO,be aWayfOr a mhimum pe10d(お rnaximunl po od(90o「 180 days).Stopovers are not a‖ owed,and r you have to change yourtravol "m wmiド y rettndablei r yOL cancOl your ‖ dates or routing,there w‖ i be extra charges.These tickets are not仙 cket.TakO out tnaVel‐ 1● SuranCe_ t o,the rofund is oien considerabiV loss than what you pald for llo饉 t。

,cover yourselfin case you have to cal:o子

F yourt口 p unexpectedly(Og due to l‖

ness).

■■on on yourticket;you are usua‖ ya‖ owod one iternl weighing Baggage A::owance This wili be、″ ing transauan」 c routes allow 2o kgt。 9。 in the hOld,plus one nem of hand!u9gage、 Many ai‖ ines l〕 ′ for i″ o

Pieces ofluggage with rela」

oight.

vely generous lirnits on their dirnensions and i″

::￨IW請 ♀ 鼎 曲:熱 需鑑 認::譜猛 躙吊 癬語器:譜 :路躙隅密 躍 器ξ 棚♀ yds∝ 博.Theylohis by ofF‐ loadng them on0 ha :♀

:￨』 :∫

)unted tickё ng o se‖ a certain number of dね stica‖ bucket shops(Or COnSO‖ datOrS),tね Ve!agentS WhO Spedali∞ in SuCh diS(Ю unね d ttЮ S・ The agems, in turn,selithem to the public at reduced p‖ 00s. ese uckOts ar0 0ften thO cheapest yOu'￨lind,but you usua‖ y can't purchase them direc」 y from the al‖ ines,rest clons abound and:Ong‐ hauljourneys can b0 0 remelytime―consuming,、 Mth severa:獣 ops alongthe way.AVallabi‖ ャ va Os■ idolI SOyou'‖ not only have to bo flexible in your travel plans,you'￨l als6 have to be quickく )lf the nlark as scК )n as

an adverusernent appears in the press. Bucket‐ shop agents adveniSe in neWSpaperS and:η aga2ineS,and there'S a 10t Of CO:T:petitiOn― especia‖ y in plac6s‖ ke Amsterdam,London and Hong Kong which are crawiing wlhthem.lrs al"ays ″ay Shop. ability before rushing to sorne out■ of‐ the‐ヽ a good idea to telephone lrst to ascertain ava‖ Natura‖ ■ they'll advertise thO CheapeSt aVa‖ able tiCketS,but by the llmelyOu get廿 lere,lhese may bo SO!d Out(。 r WeЮ nOneXiStOntin thl firSt plaCO),and yOu may bel。 。king a tbmething s‖ gh」 y nγ )re

expenstve. u“

u haVe a∞ n¶ med Seat d°

eSn't mean y°

麗 『 8愧湖:灘 協“ Cance::a督 on Penalties if you have to cancol or change an Apex o「 y°

'r99° °

￨ n he plan°

ing t°

"t° other discounted icket,thero

nlay be heavypenaltiesinvoiveditravolinsurance can Sonte‖ n10St〉 e taken OtltiagainSttheS01,Onal億 eS. e‖ ,patticulary againstinO shOw'passOn_ sonlo airiines now irnpose penalties on regulartickets as、 ″ gers.

Check:n Airines ask you to CheCkin a‐ Certain time ahead of the light departtЮ

(usu」 v two hours conscious ones ilko EI AI,the israeli carrioO. on internatiOnalflights butlonger on particulary secu ″‐ :f you failto check in on tirne and the lightis overbooked,the ai"ino(Dan cancel VOur reSerVatiOn and

give your seatto somebody olse. Conf:r￢ nation Having a lcket wtttten out with the flight and date on it doosn'trviean you have a seat ith the ai‖ ine that your status ls`C)K'and has written or stanlped that unll the a9ont has confirnied、 ″ r tO this cOnfirnlation,yOur status is`。 n requesr. on your.ticket.P哺 。

Courier Fares Businessos often send their urgent doculments orflo19htthrough cou"er co:η panies.

■10se∞ mpanies hire i“ 。ple b accOmpany he packagethrOugh custOms and:in remm,o10,cheap ICkOお hat uSedわ be phenOmenal bargainS but nOWadayS aЮ iuSt‖ ke dOCent di“ ,Ounted fareS・

ln

erect,whatthe()。 urier companies dO is shiptheirg。 。ds as yourluggage on regularconlmer(,alf‖ ghts; yOu arO uSua‖ y onV a‖ 。Wed CarryOn・ ThiS iS a logitimate Opera驚 On― ali fre]ghtiS C。 lmlpletё :y:6ga:. There are tVVO draWbaCkS,hoWeVer the ShOrtturnarOund tirne ofthe tiCket(uSua‖ y notlongerthah a rnOnth)and the lirnita」 。n On yOur baggage alloWanCe・ Discounted Tickets There are two types of discounted fares:o■

icia‖

y discounted(such as Apex)

。neS and unOffiCia‖ y diSCOunted」 CketS(SeO BuCket ShOpS).ThelaterCan SaVe yOu rno「 e than rnoney ― you may be able to pay Apex plces without■ le a(、 ociated advance‐ purchase and other requireL n10nts.‐ 「 he lovvest p ces oien impose drawbacks,such as flying with unpopularaldines,inconverllont schedules,or unpleasant routings and connec」 ons.

Economy Ciass EconofT:y‐

class tickets aro usua‖

y notthe cheapestヽ ″ay to go,bLitthey dO giVe yOu are fu‖ y rofundablo,

maximum flexib‖ ity and they are va‖ d for12 months.lf you don't use them,m6盤 as aro unused secた

o「 s

of a multiple ticket.

oded J)and econornyclass Fu::Faresメ ヽ‖ines tradi ona‖ y oferfrSt ClaSS(COded F),business ciass(● ms avanabl● hat he (coded Y)tickets.These days there are so many promotional and discountedね only passengers paying fullfare are on eXpenSe aCCOuntS or atthe gate and in a hurn4 Lost l・ Ickets if you lose yourticket,an aldine、

″‖ l usua‖ y

treat it ilke a trave‖

ers chequo and,after

Getting Thcrc&Away― Air Travcl Glossary 69 inqul口 os,issu● a loss could bo

for

very popular restncuons the lrst sectorin advance and

x)k

how

70 Getung Therc&,Away― Land l on the corner ofIく 。10dvOrska ulica.I])esti―

nations,frequencics and onc‐ way farcs are: lBIelgrade via Tヽ Tovi Sad daily at 2.30 and 6

pm,5000 SIT;Bclgradc direct via CrOaは a, uesday and Thursday at 10.15 prn, 6500 SIT;Vr可 だka Ba● a via KraguJev∝ and K」 jevodaly at6pm,6∝ Ю SIT;Dlakovica 'I｀

dally at 2.30 pm,8000 SI・

r.

Austria&Germanv Manv towns in GolenJska,Koroζ ka and Sttterska have bus servcesわ Austria and Gerinany.They can

dSO be FaChed frOm ttublma.BC“

ady br

a quick change of buses on thc Austrian or Gcrman borders. C)ne daily bus in surnrner gocs toヽ ′ illach

See the Alternadve Placc Names appendix at thc back ofthis book.

Train

S19venim R」 lways(Slovenske Zeleznicc; SZ)links up with thc European railway nctwork O Ausma(Villach,S」 zburg,Graz, Vienna),Germany(Leipzig,Munich),Swit―

zerimd(Gcncva),Italy(Tricstc,Venlcc, Mllan),Hungary(Budarst)袖 d CЮ atia (Zagκ b,Kalovac,Rijeka,Pula).SZ trans are hardly luxunous,but they`r.e clean and punctual.

■le intemationd trdns listed below are expresses,and sOrne requ:re a seat reserva―

tion costing 460 Srr.The lnterCiり

′(IC)

Cora,and there a・ c daly busesto I(lagenう urt

supplement is 150 Srr;the one EuroCity (EC)tmin which servcs Slovenia(me dト

(Celovec in Slovene)from iDravograd and Graz from Maibo■

「j″,α ″ conditionedノ И ′ linking 13erlin and Zagreb vialMunich,Sdzburg and Liubljana)

F.ronl Maribor,count on one bus a day to

ChaFgeS a Supplernent Of 250 SI「 (:)n sorne trains, including the lを ″ι

(BctakinSlovenc)h Austna from KranJSka

Gr2 and,from Ptuj,atwice weedy sewicc. Dally buses aso reach Frarよ fu■

and Stutt―

ga■ froln M`ribo■

.

E,P″ SS, OPα ′

S′ ″′′ ο″ ExP″ SS, ιおれstJ

`Jα and

lめ le in lst(8335

From Liubjma,mcrc's a bus to Berlin ■ onヽ 4cdnesday江

SID md2ndclass(5560S「 );couchtesin ",slec"rs arc av」

7.301:pnl,to Munich fronl Tuesday tO′ rhurs_

express lrains have dining Or even buffet cars;bnng along somc snacks and dnnks as

with a stop in Frank

day at 5.05 or 5.30 anl, to Stuttgan on VVednesday at 7.30 pm and to Klagenfu“ on Wё dnesday at 6.15 anl.

2nd class cost 2540 SI'「 .Surpnsingly not all

vendors can be few and far be● veen.

TO reduCe COnfuSiOn,SpeCi″ yOurtram by the nmle listed under thc country scctions

Hungary FЮ m LJubljma you can catch a

bclow or on thc posted schedule whcn

bus tO IBudapest On′ ruesday,Thursday and

rcquesting infOrmation or buying a ticket.

Fnday at 10 pm.T'here's also a service On

11【

Thursday at 5.30 ainto Lend.C)therwise take

course,but itis o食 en easicr tO deal witll the

ndava;the Hunganan border is 5km no■ h. The irst

leSS― harnCd Staff at S10Venl江 unSt OfiCeS. Thcy sell train dckets Of al,pes and have branChCS■ the廿 譴n stadons inCelje,LJublj― ana,Iく opcr and Maribo■ ()thcr Slovenl」 a―

one of up to ive daily buscstO I_ん

Hungarian=an stttion,R6dics,is only 2kin bcyond the bordcr.From R`dics,thelc are up

to 10 trains a day(49kin; 1:4 hours)tO

ou can do both at the train stations, of

Zdaegerszcg,■ om whec thcre tte thrcc

turist offices can bc lound in either city or town centres.

dircct trains(304 hours)and ivc buses tO Budapest.

nlonths.

Tickcts On s乞 廿ans arc vdidぉ r tw。

Lenti is also scrved by two buses a weck

from Maibor and Celie(on Thursdり Satuday).

and

Tickets&Discounts All f"csto CrOatiaare κduced by 20%.Wiasteels 26(BII)tickets,

Sorne bus and tain dinetables in Slovenia usc the nainesin SIovene Ofcities and towns

aVailablc to lpeoplc under 26 for 2nd class travel on selected routes,offer discOunts of

in neighbOuring COuntrieS(CC10VeC fOr

between 30 and40%.Students up t0 26 ycars 01d and h01ding an ISI(】 card get 30巧そ )offthe

Klagenin,お rex劉lple,or

Trst br■

ieste).

Getting The“

fa・

e On ccrtain other trains.Both types of

tickets must bc pul℃ hased at SIoven■ atunst

offices― not thc regular ticket windows in or at the Wastcels of■ ce ublianatrain station.FTered“ tions

thc train stations― atthe L」

&Away― Land 71

from Venice to Zagrcb and Budape■ ,the iom Genevato Zag“ b,the IC D“ ッα■omヽ bnice to Budapest and the IC κ″ sto Zagcb.

Si″′あ″盈 ′″ss

CЮatiaToZagreb(160km,2%hours),therc

arc」 so available tochildrcnbetween six and

Цub」 ma Via

15 years of age(5o%)and those over 60

震)eight tanS a day frOm

years h。 lding an inに rnationd

Zidaln Most― the ECル イJ″ α″a fronl Berlin, the砕 ″ιz′ a EχP″ SS,theAκ ″α fromPula,the s,“′′ ο″Eχ′″ss,the Lお れs″ froln Munich, 血eIC κ″ as,the βルグ from Villach and the

Europe S)card(30 to 50%). Sarnple intemational one―

2nd class travcl from巧

RES(Rall

way f`遣・ es for

ub増 帥a inClude

Amstcrdain 31,395 SI■ Berin 25,945 SIT, Budapest 6110 SIT,Graz 3480 SI■ Munich 94α )SI■ Pな is(Via Geneva)22,655 SIr,

Rijeka 1270 SIr,Rome(

a Venice)7335

α Sα ッ .

To Rijeka(155km,2%hours),therc are

mO t

ns a day from巧 ubjana Via PiVka; depending on the day and the sealson,these

α,Opa″ ルLIノ ンb4'α ″α

SIT,Salzburg 5435 SIT,Triestc 1786 SI「 illach 2030 SIr and Vlenna 75oo SI・ r, ヽア Zagreb 1365 SI「 sz and s10venlaturist scll lnter― Rail

nught be thC IC〕

passcs tO thOsc under 26.・1lleoretically,you must have resided in the country ofpurchasc

and a spur ofthe I('κ ras.

fOr six:nOnths.Inte■ Rall divides Europe inb seven zones(AoG).Pぉ ses br one,

Austria&Germany The man traln routes

,

.

twO,tlree Or all seven are available.A15‐

day

pass v」 id in ZOnC C Only(WhiCh inCludeS S10venia,Italy,(G)reece and the feiry conlpa―

nies serving tte last twO)coss 38,915 SIT.

other passes arc vdid fOr a month.A two― zOne pass is 46,345 SIr,three zones 51,890 Ven ZOneS(C」 led SIT and a pasS br a■ “ Rail cards Global)is 58,280 SIT.Inter― shOuld be treated as cash for you can make no clailns in the event ofloss or theft.:Eurall

passes and iFlexipasses are not Valid or sold in Slovenia.

Adult and youth Euro lDomino passes, a1lowing three,ive or 10 days of midnight― to‐ lnidnight

traVe1 0VCr a One‐ mOnth DCriOd.

are alsO avallabie from SZ.A ive‐ day adult

pass costs 5545 SI「 and it's3855 SIF for

those under 26.Passengers holding Euro DOrninO passes gct a 259b discount on

['7″

Oκ

.Trains operaing between thc `た s10venian capital and Pula(41レ2 hours)in α lstria go viaI)ivaё a.'rhese includc thcA“ andノor S″ 物

`れ

into Slovenia fronl Austria are Vienna tO Manbor and Salzburg to Jesenice.'T'here are 田 O trains a dり bctw∝ n Munich(453km,

seven hours)md Liubljma via Salzbu嘔・ The ECル rj″ αtravels by day while thc IC `拓 LJsi″ sた 」goes overnight in each direction. Four more tr`uns nlake the run between 巧ubljma and S激 あurg,One With a Chmge 試Ⅵ llκ h ′ Ilo get to Vienna(460kln,six hours)frorn

Liublana,you have a choice between the jα iOm Zag“ b(but yOu morning IC C″ ,α ′ must chmge■ Maribor)orthe aftemoon IC E″ ο″α from Rijeka.Whcn travelling by tan to Austria,it's solneWhat Cheaper to

し lke a local train to Maribor or Jcsenice and

ienna or Salzburg buy your ticket on to ヽ′ 士oin thel℃ .Domestic fares in Slovenia are much lower than the intemational ones.

domestic fares in Slovenia. sz」 sO sclls its own Sloven」 aRal pass for domestic travcl only. Sce'I｀ raln in the Getting Around chapter for detalls.

Hungary■ lc″れ jα Eχ′″SS and thc IC D″ ッαlink巧 ubtana “ dicc」y to Budapest

italy Four trそ uns a day lnk'Tricste with 巧ubttana(165km,threc hours)via Pivka た Eχ′″SS ″ι yea Юund,including theレ タ ζ

Car&Motorcyc:e

(500km, 71レ ウhours)via north― western Croatla.

SloVenia lnaintalnS SOFne 150 border cross― ings withlt」 y,Ausda,Hungaly and Croatia

72 Ge

ng There&Away― Sea

though not all a“ )。pen to citizens of tllird count es. The following is a list ofbOrder crOssings with each of Slovenia's four neighbOuls,that

ao opcn to allincmationd"afic tt prcsent. They run clockwise from the south― western border with ltaly.The naine ofthe Siovcnian

Gruζ kovjc*(18km

south ofPtuj)

Dobovcc(7km sou山 ― cast of Rogatcc) Rogat∝ (7km castofRogぶ ka Siauna) BiStiCa ob SOtli(9km nOnh― east Of POdsreda) Dobova(8hn south→ 6t Of Brettce) Ob“ ヵet(3km south― e¨ t oF Mobice) R31tevska Vias(lknl south of Metika)

Vinica(18km mutt ofCmOmeb)

bOrder post appea・s arst,followed by its locadon in brackets.・ hOsecrossings marked

Pctina α)etwα )n Kcだ evic and Rlieka)

wih m aste sk(*)have a Kompas M「 S ofice,wichis au■ o sed Ю makes」 es― tax

■lSane■ (betWeen niヽ kaBisdca and Rijeka) StarOd*∝ meen hest md Opa中 )

I｀

Кfunds bお dgncrs(sce Tそ Ⅸes&Reinds in the Money section of the iFacts for the ViSitOr Chapter).

にand Ankaran) “ and Kopcr) Sko町 e*Oetween Theste T

Koana*(betwcen Trieste md Rijeka) Lipica■ (near Tneste) Settanaウ Φetween T est and LJub」 ana)

乏 )

。ver it with a

ine―tooth cornb and flll yOur repa■ r kit with

every ilnaginable spare. As with cars and nlotorcyclcs,you won't ncccssanly bc ablc to buy tha cnicid gizm。 おr yOur machinc when it bre」(s down sOmewheК ‐ in the back ofbeyond in Notrangska.

Gorica)

RobiC(32hn nonh‐ east of Udinc) sout卜 wcst of Bovec)

PrcdelⅢ

(13km soutt ofTarvisio) RateCe*(12km e6t ofTarvisio) Aus● la Korensko Sedlo*(20km south― wcst Of Villach) K″ avanke+(江 the 7km tunnel betw∝ nJesenice and ⅥllaCh) LJubelい (臓 w∝ n Klagcnfun ad Kranj)

‐ east of【 a可 ) Holmcc摯 (49km east of Klagcnfun) Ⅵぴ (bctw∝ n Klagenfun md Manbor) Radije(43km west of MalibOr) Juni*(13hn nonh― west of Manbor) Scntilj■ (17km north of Manbor) Jczcrsko(35km no

Bicycles can mvel by air,whch can be

Surprisingly inexpensive. Adria, for instance,charges only IJK￡ 15 to transport a

bicycle■ omLondon Ю ttublanaand ithas CVen Ca劇 1led tandems. Ylou cα ″ takc your vehicle to pieces and put it in a bike bag or

box,but it's much easier sirnply to wheel yOur bike tO the check― in desk where Ad a Willtreatit as a piece ofbaggage.11lou nlust

renlove the pedals and turn the handlebars

rate(16knt east Ofも entllJ)

Gom」 a Radgona*(41km north― cast of Ma GedeЮ vci(10km west Of Murska Sobom) Kuzma(28km no■ h of Murska Sobota)

BuJe) ― Scこ ovije+(7km "een sou山Koper eastand of PortoЮ

are bringing yOur bicycle tO Slovenla―

Ro2na Dolina(between Gorizia and Nova

1・

(betw∝ nT■ cstc andRijeka)

beforc you leave honle,g。

Vrtaba*(ncar Nova Conca)

Uё eja(16km

Soё erga中

Dragojna*(腱

Bicycle ([;ycling is a cheap, convcnicnt, healthy, environinentally sOund and above all lun way Oftravelling.One note ofcaution ifyOu

I● ly

Laa“ t*(betwcen

Cab″ (25km south of Sodraを ic→ Bttno Poue(30km sou山 ― w“ t of(brknica)

boつ

Hungary

HodoO(60貯n

west of Zalaegerszeg) Dolga Vas*(between L″ ndava and R6dics)

sideways so thatittakes up less space in the

puttheminto abox for you.Check」 l this with whatever alrline yOu ny Well lll advancc.For informa」 on aircra■'s hold;Adria wi■

about transpoding yOur bicycle by train in SIovenia,see the Gettingた 。und chapter

SEA Croatla Petiζ

ovci(5knl south of Lendava)

Rttkriえ jc(10kin east Of L」

uomer)

S“ dtte ob Dravi*(20km west ofCakovec) Omlo2(25km east of PtuJ) ZaVに *(19km SOuth― eaSt Of Ru」 )

An dternadve way of getting tO Sbvenia frOm ltay iS by bOat.Betwcen iate March and()ctobcron F the Pr"c``2′

day,Saturday and Sunday

力れた′ ,a40m Australian― made

Catarnaran scating 330 passengers, sails

Gctting There&Away― DeParture Tax 73

WARNING

bctween POrtOrOを and Venice(21,42 hours;

DM90 rctum).For mお mlation in Po■ oro差 cOntact KOmpas(● 066-747032)江 Obda

Thc infornlation in this chapter is pardcu‐

41;in Vcnicethc Kompas ofice(● 041-528 6545)is at S劉 l Ma℃ o1497.Another boat

hterna■ ond travel ae vol江 lle,loutes are

nlaking return tnps toヽ 4enice frorn Po

oro乞

special deals corne and go,and l■ lles and visa

缶。m Tuesday to saturday between late May a cata‐ αE′ ιο″ο′ and Septeinber is the Sα ″′ maran(● 066‐ 73 583 in Portoroを ● 041-520 8966 inヽ りnice).'The"ip t2此 les Only lち ろhOu、 額 d costs DM95 to DMl10 return.Another catamaran called iイ ακοれ links Theste ν th Pttan(35 nunutes:4000 ' sI「 rctum)。 n Thusday bdween latelMach and (Dctober. For rnore inforination, See Cruises m thc Piran seCdon and Bo江 hg& Cruises under Po■ loroZ in thc Prilnorska chapter

requlrements are arnended. ´、 i■ lines scenl tO takc a perver:x,pleasure

larly vuinerablc to change― prices for introduced or cancelled,schedules change,

;

in rnaking pricc structures and rcgulations as

cOmplicated as possible;you should check dhectly with thc ttrlinc or tmvel agent tO

make sure you understald hOW a fare(and icket yOu may buy)WOrkS. In addidon,the ltravel industry is highly conlpetitive,and there are inany specials and

bonuses. 'I'he upshot of this is that you should get

Opin10ns,quotes and advicc from as m`■ ly

frOrn all passengers leaving Slovenia by al● 11lis is alinost alWays included in the dcket

arllnes and travel agents aS possible before you pat with your hそ rd‐ eaned cash. The“ fo“■he detalls given in this chaptr should only be reg=ded as pointers;血 ey are not a substitute for your ca」 reful,up― to― date

pnce.

rcsearch.

DEPARTURE TAX Adepatuc tax of DiM25/USS14 is co■

ected

Getting Around AIR Little Slovenia has no scheduled dolnestic flights,but a division of Adria callcd Avio‐

left-luggage ofEce rgα t″ α,and charge ｀ “`a,ら 150 to 180 SI■ per piecc per day.:Be careful as sorne ofthcnl havc alrnost bankers hOurs.

taxi(● 064‐ 223

A bettcr(and satr)bet is

555 atBmikarport)wllΠ y

ChartCκ d PiperS(fOur SCatS)and CeSSnaS

(eight SCatS)tO airpOrtS and aerOdrOmeS ′Sample return fares f{or around the countiう・

Ю leave yOur luggagc atthc Lan station,which is usudly ne`rby and haslonger hours.If your bag has to go in the luggage coinpartment be10w the

thκ e passengers ar DM95 to Bled,DM185 bus,it will be about 170 SIT exLa,though to Slovenj Gnd∝ and DM360 to Po oЮ 老 ■lost drivers don't rnind yOu carrying it On

or Maribo■

the bus ifit will■ t between your seat and the

Smelt Air(●

061‐ 378704)located

at

onc in front of it.

・Ille tirnetablcs in thc station or pOsted On

Dunttka ccsta 160 in巧 ubljana is anothcr

aw」 1。 r

smml_al“ raft chTter company.

BUS

cannot find your bus listed Orく iOn't undcr― Stand the schedule,seck assistance froni the

Except for long jOumeys,ぬ king the bus is preferable tO the train in SIovenia and depar― turcs a壼

infOπ nttiOn Or tiCket WindOW(uSu」 ly COnl―

bined).0′ 力οグ」means`Departurcs'while Pr′ 力 ο g″ ″ ″is`Amvals'.B′ α α%zο ″た `is thc place for tickcts.

)frequent.In sorne cases yOu don't

have a choice: by bus is the lonly ipractical way to gctto Bled,thc Julian Alps,1■ uch of

Dole● ska,KoЮ Ska and Notranjska and to

Slovenian bus tirllctables use c01oured

Croatian lstia.But fOr a large part ofthe rest

Plastic numbers or abbreviation fOOtnOtes tO

denote which days ofthe week and dunng

ofthe country yOu dO have a choice. 11lou can buy your ticket at the bus station (aツ

column outside list al bus routes,

and times are usually up to date. If yOu

What scasons thc buses nln.The following

′ οιttα ′οSrι Jα りOrSimply pay the dnver

lists cover n10st Of the conlbinatiOns you'11

as you entcrthc bus evcrywhere in Slovenia.

h巧 ub」 ana

enCOunter.(PICaSe nOtC that a diffcrcnt

yOu ShOuld b∞ k your scat(120

colour scherne rnay bc in Olpcration at sornc smtiOns.)

slr)a day in advancc,particularly if you,re travelling on iF day or tO pOpular destina―

tions in the nlountains or along thc cOast beforc a public holiday.Be aware that bus

B4sπ″′ ′ ab′

′ ο″″ s While rb`Jα`Gο ♭ て ,″ α リ green (Z′ ル″α防 blu。 α老2′""リ ヽ 々 2リ ("ο ′´ “ Orange (ο baM,

and hdidayS(and SOmetimes on S■

daly

Monday‐ Sattirday Monday‐ F day Monday‐ Friday md wor ng Saturdays “ yC10W (″ ″αbα ″αリ days whcn schoolisin

Services are severely restllcted on Sunday

urday

t00).Plan yourtrip accordingly oryou'1l ind yOurSClf inarooned until Monday rnorning. I)ifferent natiOnal cornpanies serve the

“"′

rCd

COuntry.It's htegnland ESAPin ttubjala,

`々 ′ ′ da barソ aリ

Sunday and public holidays

Kambusin Kamnik,AlpctOurinSkolaLoka and Kranj,Avrigo in Nova Co

ca and I&I 。pcn iBut this in‐ eans li■ lc to travcllers, and prices are unifOrrll whcn scrvices

B"η うι ッ′ ″ ″ "ι `α `Abb″ ` C ThurSday PP Monday―

OVerlap Or compete. For some salmple

D+ Monday_Fnday N Sunday

in lく

`ο

D workdays

dolncstic and intern江 lond bus fales from the

capital,sec Ge ng Theκ 町ub」 ana Chapten

NI' Sunday and hoLdays

&Away in the

Pe Fiday

Po Monday

Sc)nle, but not all, bus stations have a

74

So Saturday

Frlday

SIヽ I Saturdav and Sundav SP. days when schoolis

Sr llo

や Viednesday ′ 「 ucsday

V daily

Ge

TRAIN sZrunstransOnjustover 1200kmoftrack, about 4o%Of which a・ e elecけ iicd.Large stretches of the main line need to l)e upgradcd and though stt roning st∝ k is■ Ot the n10st nlodern, the scrvicc is reliable, fairly punctual and inexpensive, if a litle slow「Vieiry roughly,lEgure on covering about 60 to 65k■l per houn Although many secondary lineS link pro―

ng ArOund― Train 75

tried to:keep thcm down in cornpctition with thc nlore cxtensivc bus ne● ″orlk,so traVel‐ ling by train is gencrally cheaper than going by bus. It's dil日Icult to give an exact per― kilornctre charge as the p cc decrcases asthe

joumcy lengthens.But,in Юugh terins,a look■l JOurncy costs 685 S11｀ in 2nd class and 1035 SI・

I｀

in lst class.

IIere are sOrne Onc― way 2ndノ lst class

dOmesticfaresiomLjubuma:Bled451/677

vincial cities and toWns, all inain ones cOnvergc on Liublana and O get frOm A to

SIT(51km),Jesenice 545827 SII・ (64km),

B it,s usu」 ly easier to retum to me capital.

1410 Srr(156km),:M:urska Sobota 1260/ 1880 SIT(216km)andNovo Mesto 611ノ 912

GOing frOm IMia

Kopcr 94α 1410 SIT(163km),Maribor940/

bOr to NOvo Mesto,lor

exanlple,takes two or nlore changes if you refusc tO backtrack.At thc sanle tirne,large

SIT(75km).

sectiOnsOfthecOu威 7(theAlps,Notranjska, wesじ m DolettSka,centd Primorska)are

for 10,20or 30days ofiavelover ah″

not servcd by rail,nlaking thc bus your only

to groups oftwo or more at a discount.Thus a lo― day pa,sis 7962 SIr for one person and

choice.Aside from Ljubtana,other impor‐ tant rail crOssingls are at iPivka, iE)ivaё

a,

Zidani Most and Pragersko. The dOFneStiC SerViCe runS regiOnal trainS

′ tブ ッ ク 7閣 ,and city“ ains● ′ α′ rκ gjο ″

j“ ′ Sr″ J ッ Jα ″九butthe fastest arc hb・Ciり and Green πJ Иttjナ ICt nSiew aSurChargC ′ TttnS(″ ′

sZsellsS10venijaRalpassesth■ are pe

o―

valid

month

od.They arc avalable b individu」 s or

13,16o sITfor acouplc.Remember,though, that trains are gencrally conVenicnt only for long― distance travel in SIovenia; once you rea)h aregiond cente,you'1l be nl」 dng mo説

day trips by bus.The only other discount schemc in effcctお r bCignerS(StudenS gCt

of 150 SIr.Fares on thc Creen Trains,which are calculated by the route not per kilometre likc IC'trains, includc the supplernent,but yOu inust bOOk yourseat on these for 30C)SIr. If se■ rescrv■ iOns are obligaory,the`R'on

309b offonly ifthcy are enrollcd in a Sloven―

the tiinetablc will be boxed.An`R'without

omerwise they pay h」 f the fale. Dcpending on the station,depanures and

a box rneans seat reservations are avallable.

′ I｀

ickets are usually purchased in advance

誠 theをι″z″ ぶたαροS′ ■,α (train StatiOn)。 ra SIOVCntatunSt OfiCe・ If yOu haVen't beCn able to buy a ticketin advance,seck out the

conductor who will scll you onc and charge

yOu a supplement of 180 SIR The extra

ian school)is a 309ら discount for groups of six or more adults and`mini― groups'oftwo adults and a child.Children up to the age of six travel for frec ifthey don't occupy a scat.

alTivals are announced by loudspeaker or on

an electronic boa:rd and are always on a pnnted timctable.The yellow one with the hcading(9グ たο′ or(9グλο′, 14′ a々 οッlmeans

`Departures'and the white one with the

words P″ みο′ or Prjみ ο′jy′ αたον is

charge is notrnade ifthe ticket window atthe

`Arnvals'.C)ther inlportant train wordS that

StatiOn WaS C10Sed(yeS,the COnduCtOr Will

appearOften"e daS(time),′ ο″(platfOrm), `“ ′(mil). Sι グ ιえ(Seat),S“ ι″(direCtiOn)and″ ′

knOw)。 r yOur cOnnecting train was l■ c.An invalid icket or trying to avoid paying will

Ilillletable symbols includc:

eanl you a ine of 2000 SII

И ι α)is ν οそ οッ ″ A return ticket ttpο ッα "α of a one― way tllan double the “ price

,less 20巧 々

ticket r`″

″jε α).A lst class ηα ν οzο ν οs“ ′′

tickct costs 509ら rnorc than a 2nd class one.

SZ is still under governrnent subvention though itis frce to setits own p ces.It has

Monday‐ Saturday(exccpt public holidays) 'ぐ

O Monday‐ F

day(except public holidays)

S江 岨ay and public holidays ● MonⅢ ―

①

saturdttandsunday

76(〕 etting Around― Train

√ヽ

P,“ 口

￨● 可

ub

︹ ｒ ｔｌ．

“

K"可

LoL

Lo● 癒o●

ヽ

００ □ †

SaШ「 day,sunday ald puЫ ic hoLdays

befol℃ lyou leave your bag behind.The chalBC

isあ out 150 SIT per pi∝ e.均 ub」 ana's

gar―

Sunday and public hOlidays

deroba is deinitely Open round the cIock.

no Sunday service

Ma

IIIOu can freight an autoinobilc on the bo卜 KOpCr 10ute lor between 3000 and 4∝Ю SITone way(48(Ю to 64(Ю SITctum),

holiday scrⅥ ce

depencling on the size of the vehicle. 11le

If you expect to be taking a lot of trains in S10Venia.buV a CODV Ofthe 01Ficialti:netable

b00k,%aJ^ι グsiJッ ′ ″ sル 22_,which is avalable a the s10vcnijaturist branch at

山C均 ubljana

train st“

onわ r700 SIT.It is

charge fOr a bicycle, which can be t・ ans‐ polted on lllost trains with the exception of

the Green Trdns,is a n江 3(Ю SIT.

Scen:c Routes SIovenia's■ 10st sccnic rail routc runs f■ orn

publiShCd eVCry year atthc end of May and haS eXplanatOry nOteS in Slovene,GcrFnan and French.:Reinelllbet too,when planning

Jesenice to]Nova(00nca via Bled l(Bled

your trips that」 mOst twO_thirds of all ral

AlpS and Soё a River Valley opened for

passengers in SIovenia are commuじ rs who

JeZCЮ StatiOn),BOhinjSkaBist

ca ald Miost

na Soё i.'Ihis 89k■ l route through the Julian

Servicc in 1906.If you are lravelling sOuth,

Only travel at peak tiines in the inonling and

Sit on lle right‐ hand side of the train t()see

latc a■ ernoon.

LCi-luggagC OffiCCS at some 32 stations

the cobalt‐ blue SOё a at its most sparkling. A half‐ 〈 10zen local trains a day cover this

around thc cOuntry arc suppOsed to be Opcn 24 hours a day,but dOuble― check the hours

route in each dircctiOn.11lc trip takes about two hours.

Ge The 160km train ridc from Ljubljana to

Zagreb is also wOrth taking aS the line fOl10ws the Sava River along rnost of its

ng Around―

Ca・

&MOtOrcyclc 77

zagreb vialNovo Mesto,tlle lE61 to Villach via Jcsenice and the lKaravanke・ I'unnel and

the E57 to Graz via Manbo「

route through a picturcSquc gorgc.Sit on the

National highWays contaln a single digit

nghtsidc eastbound,the left side westbound.

and link cities.ScCOndary and tertiary roads

steam Trains stthas asockofive steam 10COmOtiVeS and antique wagons ― a train spotter's drearn

hyphcn; the firSt nulmbCr indiCateS the

havc two sets of nul■ bers separated by a highway th■ the road runs into.Thus road

cOrne truc― and putS thenito good use evcry

No 10‐ 5 from Nova GOnca and Ajdovttna joinsthe A10 motOrWay■ Razdrto.

year with its 01dtimer Tran excursions in summet Routcs and timetables change fre‐

LJubljana tO Krang(26km),Liublana to

A toll is payable on the motolWays■

d M

om

borto

qucntly but popular excursionS include

Razd■ o viaPOStOina(56km)帥

Jesenice tO BOhitt via Bled(5760/3600 SIr for adultychildren)and frOm JeSeniCe,Bled or lB)ohinJSka Bistrica through the Soё a Valley to MOst na Soё i(6350ノ 395()SI「 ).

N。 10 for Koper and the coast,for exainple, it cOsts 470 SIr for cars and mOtOrcycleS and

Fares include lunch,Side tnps and transfers. contκ t the s10vcnijatu st Ofacc(● 061-

13150550r● 06卜 1315206)in巧 ub」 ma

for the l■ est inlo“ n江 lon.

3∞ sΠ'fЮ m Manborto Celje.If you take thc highway bemeen LJublma and Bmik arpOrt,yOu inust pay a 150 SIr toll at TOrOvO.using the 7km Ka・ avankc Tunnel

(1991)between Jescnice and Austria,

CAR&MOTORCYCLE Roads in Slovenia arc gencrally good―

if a

bit narrOw attimes.:E)riving in the Alps can bc halr二 ralsing,but

Cele(54km),but it's nottcmbly ex"nsive. FrOm the capitd Ю meturn― ofFonto highway

never dangcrous,with a

however,is a differentima■ er.That will set you back by l1001 SI「 .

Pnvateκ ar O,wnershiP in s10venia(365 vehicles per 1000 inhabitantS)iS aS high aS it

ernlany an(lthe UIK so cxpect a lot of

gradicnt ofup to 18%atthc lく orensko Sedlo

is in(〕

pass into Austria.Many mountain roads ale c10sed in winterandearly spnng.Motorways and highways are very well signposted,but

trafic,espccialy on Fnday aftcrnoons whcn

secondary and te■ ialy roads re not;be Sure おお わ′ rg′ A`′aS_力 ′νο to have yourル ″

&

ν (see iMaps under Plaming in the `だ e VisiЮ r chapteう 江 the ready. Facts`J′br 7)lα

entire cities and towns rnove to the country‐ sidc and in the surnlne■

・rhe rOads between

巧 ublana and celic,Celje and Maibor and 巧 ubljana and KoPCr cm get very busy,and 廿afic」 ains a℃ frequent.Lories wcighing nlorc than 5.5 tonnes arc banned from the

first place. Slovenia counts a tOtal of 14,836km,Of which only 280km arc moЮ ← ways.These gO pa 」ly Юund LJub」 ana aS an outer ring road and extend soutll― west

highways between 6 ain and l Pin on Satu← day and fron1 6 arn to 10 pnl on Sunday and public holidays so you inightthink oftiavel― ling thOse strcthes then.AIso,work is being carried out on inttOr roads throughout the

almostto l)ivaё a on thc way to the coast and

cOuntry so factor in thc possibility of delays

But there aren't」 lthat many roads in the

soon to Scttana en routc to ltaly;north‐

west

to Naklo past Krmj and from bscc Via Jcsenice to the Karavanke rrunnel; and sOuth‐ eぉ t b GЮ supljc headingお r ZagFb. There's also a stretch fronl IIoё

e,south of

Maribor,Ю Vransko past Celje.They Te nurnbered up t。 lo and preceded by an`A'

α). わεω′ (br αν IntematiOnd rOadsな epreceded by an`E'. The mOstimp。 ■ant Ofthese ae the E70 to

and diVerSiOnS(ο

bツ ο Zり・

Petr01 st■ iOns a・ c usu」 ly

opcn Monday

tO saturday from about 7 ain to 8 pnl,though largertowns have a 24‐ hour one as you enter

(and Often leave)the limits.Fucls of 91

(increasingly h′ rd to ind)and unleaded 95 and 98 octane a“ ラavailable and are relatively

cheap by:European standards:94.80,99.10 and lll.40 SIr per litre reSpectively at the

time Of writing.:Most st江 lons aso have

78(Gctting Around― Bicyclc dieSCl fuel costing 95.30 SIT per litrc. Payrnent by foreign credit card is still uncornrnon at Siovenian petrOI stations; expecttO pay cash.

Car rentals frOm intcrnatiOnal firms likc Eurodollar,Budget,Avis and Kolnpas Hertz

IntenlatiOnal vehicle insurance is compul_ sory in Slovenia.If yOur car is registercd in

prOVinCid CitieS)Vary Widely in price,but

the lEU it is assurned you have it, and SIovenia has cOncluded spccial agrccrnents

With CrOatia, Hungary, Maccdonia and S10Vakia.Other mOtOnSts must buy a Green

CTd Validお r S10Venia atthe border(DM52 おr15dり s,DM75 bra month). ′ I｀

he natiOnal autornobile club is the

Avto― MOtO

ZVeZa SIovenlc(A14ZS).For

cnlergcncy roadside assistance, ■10tOrists ShOuld Call it on● 987.IFor infonnation on road and traffic cOnditions, cOntact the

AMZS in Liub」 ana(8061-341341;fax 061‐ 342378;[email protected];www. amzs.si).All accidents should be repOrted b the po

ce(● 113)immediately.

Car Rentai

(all have Omces in ttublma and in some CXpeCt tO pay frorn about USS55/315 a day/week with unlimited rnileage fOr a Renault 5,Nissan Micra or Ford Fiesta with

Eurodollarく )ptional collision insurance to reduCe thC eXCeSS/deduCdble is about USS8 a day eXtra,thCft prOtCCtiOn another USS8

and perSOnal aCCident insurance USS5. There's also a`ci∝ ul■ ion tax'similar to value― added tax lcvied On car rentals.Indc―

pCndent agCncies like ABC, Alpetour and Avtoim"I(Which rcnts Cz∝ hぷ lodasOnly) have moκ cOmpetitive ratcs.Sec Cな

&

M:otorcyclc in thc cetting Around section of

mettubjttaCh"terお

r a m11list ofagencies.

HenZ Will“ nttO daVes aged from 21 to 25 only if thcy pay an additional `young dnVer's fee'of US$8 a day.IBudget rents to

Road Ruies

thosc 21 ycals and Over in possessiOn of a

You must dnvc On thc nght.Spced limits fOr cars ad motorcycles arcぬ e same ttouttout thc county:60krn■ l in tOwns and villages;

liCenCC Ofatlcasttwo ycas,Avis only

Ю thO∞

23 and over.Ask about one‐ way rent」 s with frcc drop‐ Offs at other Ofices in Slovcnia.

80knlノ h on secOndary and tertiary roads;100 k“ 1/h

On highways;120km■ l on motOrways.

These limlts an3 being lnore and inOre stncay enforced and shOuld you exceed them you'11 hit a spced trap for sure.I knOw l did.

′ he usc Of scat belts is cOmpulsory and I・

mObrCyCliStt muSt wett hclmets.Neiぬ

cr

thcy nor motOrisも a・ c rcquired b show heir head ghts lrOughoutlhe day Oul憾 ide buil● up areaS aS iS the CaSe in sorne other European countl■

es but nlany nOw do..The pernldtted

b100d‐ alCOhOl leVel for d

ing ttub」 mt

Maibo■

Pt可

,Novo Mesto,

KranJ md Sko5a Loka,have bicycle lanes and some evcn havc special tramc lights.

Thc 2b“ ″ ,sr

iイ ク ッ ′ ″′ α, available ′ο r s′ ο everywherc,lists itineranes and sOrne tounst offices have special cyclingl maps for their town or region.

vers is O.5gな g.

You now mustpayto pa・ k

in the ccntre Of most la・ gc tOwns in Slovcnia― ■ol■ Izola

md Novo MeStoto Slovett Gradec md Ptuj ―and illegally parked vchicles arc routinely tOWed aWay nOWadayS,eSpecidly in LJub― lana and the hiSto

B:CYCLE ([lycling is permitted on all roads except nlotoい ″ays.Many towns and citics,includ_

c towns on the coast.In

HITCHiNG Hiに hhiking is legd everywhere cxcept on

mObiWり S and SOme m10rhighWayS mdis generally easy;even young women do itin SIoVenia.HitChing Can be difiEcult on Fliday aften100n,before scho。 l holidays and allnost

general yOu'1l have tO scek out car parks

impossible on Sunday. If you'R3 heading

(indiCaじ d On most mapsby a`P')Where tes 征C ChagCd(frOm l(Ю SIT perhou0 0r buy

trian lnOtOrists: they scenl to have an

a special parking cOupOn from ncwsstands,

avcrsion to this inethOd of travel.

kiosks Or vending machines and place it On the dashbOard.

Hi“ hing fr。 ln bus stOps is fd」 y colnmOn in Slovenia.lC)therwise use rnoto口 :vay access

nO■ h,dOn'tCOunt On m`護 ly ndes from Aus―

Ge■ing Around― C)rganiSed TOurs 79

roads or otller areas where the trafic is not

disturbed.sce Hitching in the Geting There

&Awり

Section of the巧 ubuanachapterお r

the best routes out of the capital.

Hitching is never a tot」 ly safe way of gcting around and,although We inay occa‐ sio■ ally lmcntion it as an option,we don't

bears the sanle narne as thecornmunity.Thus Ribё ev Laz 13 is housc No 13 in the village ofRibё ev L:2 on Lake Bohi可 .As Slovenian villages are frequently rnade up of one road with houses cluste“ donorjustoffit,thiS iS seldonl conftlsing.

Places with doublc― barrelled namnes like

recomnlend it.

NOvo Mesto(New Town)and Cma Gora

ORGANiSED TOURS

case(Novo mesto,Cma gor→ 」mostお

(Black I1111)out the second word in lower

The big travel agencieslikeKompas,iErnona

GlobburmdSlovenl江

u

st,お well as some

snlaller ones,organise eXCursions and tOurs

for individuals and groups,usually out of 巧 ubliana.ryou'rc pressedお rtime or want to squccze in asinuch aspossibleoverashort penod,you can`do'the entire country with

Kompasin a weCk in Summer fOr US$850 (single supplement USS160),including all

me」 s,accommodation and transpo■

ation,

Or take in Austna,IIungary and the Czech Republic as well as Slovenia in twO Weeks

for uss191o(singlc supplcment US$430). Kompas dso has scveral very good spec― Юurs,仕 Om hOrse

ding in Rogla and rafting On the Soё a Riverto therrnal spa and ialised

castle tours.

if

the names were Newtown andBlackhin.It is proper o■ hography in Slovene,but We have Opted tO gO with the English‐ language way Of doing it to avoid confusion. Slovenc u“ s the possessivc case fequently

in street nalncs.Thus a road namcd aicrthe poet lvan Canka・ is Cankar〕 eva ulica While

a square hOnOuring Francc Preこ eren is Pregernov trg.AIso,when nouns are turned intO atteCtiVeS they Often beCOme unreCOg― nisable to a folに igne■

Thetown is`Bled',for

example,but`Lake BIed'is Blejsko JezeЮ

.

′,is usually A strcet leading to a cas■ e(g″α cancd Graiska ulica.The WOrds`pF,`pod' ald`na'in place naines miean`at the',`below the'and`on the'respectiVely.

There are a lot of different words for `strect'in SloVene,and the lollowing list Will

ADDRESSES&PLACE NAMES Strects are well signposted in Slovenian

tOwns and citles though the nunlbering systenl can be a bit confusing,with odd and

even nurnbers sornetirnes running on the same sides of streets and squares.

eS haVe Chmged 巧 ubtana md Other C sorne of their street narnes since inde― pcndence,and most anything recalling the α″ο′ だgj″ ιhぉ been dropped.This can `″

causc sorne confusion as inany pcople still use the old narnes and,in some caseS,Strects

have had tO be renumbered. For exarnple, 巧 ublana'S man drag,s10venska ces儘,and its nOnhem extension,1)unttska ccsta,wcrc bOth'ritOvacesta until 1991.・ rhe hOuses and

at lcast help you distinguish between the

boulcvards, roads and alleys used in addresscs.Amore extensive list ofwords for usc in reading rnaps appears in the Glossary atthe back ofthis book.

″ _maoiway `腋 レ″g一“nver b田 lk

あbtⅥ edリ ーЮ 〈 “ “ 0′ ―cou"yard ′、,湘 ぶ emb■ lkment πiら ″ 滋 S`ケ``―C。 1。 n"hamLt eS● t `― ―nng ο Oヵ″ ゴ rmd,bypass “ ′οf― tral ```:α ″ッ ο″′―avenuc

′″Йο′―paSS38e,cЮ 、■8

buildings on the latter have since had to be

7″ な′ ″ ―WalkWay,al19

given new nunlbers. In small towns and villages,houseS a・ e

S:`′

usually nu:Tibered。 lr a single street,which

―`お

utte ″3-円"饉 ″ (a"renatd″ ,一 壺 t “ ““

くＺく﹁ヨ銀⊃つＪ

Liubliana

p 270,α η・ a″ a cο d`●(bf・ ′ο ∫ ′ ε οピθ′ ・ ′ο αη ll10ugh it doesn'tcven count 3CЮ ,(】 )Oinhab_ jubljana is by far and away itants, ■ ′ SIovenia's largest and inOst pOpulous city.It is dso me nttion's politК 」,ccon。 lnic and

cultur」 capital.Assuch,virtudly cverything

H:GHL:GHTS ・ En,oy a stro‖ up to Ljubliana Caslo ・ Expe ence a warrn sumrner's evening at the outdoorKoniski Rep pubon Preも 。 「rlov trg

of natond importallcc begins,ends or is

・ VieW the CO‖ eCtiOn of 20th century Slo‐

taking pl¨ e in巧 ubJana. But it can be dittcultto gct a grip On tte

・ SuⅣ ey th0 01d Town from Nebotiё nik (SkySCmper)。 n Slovenska cesta ・ Tlakein a perfOrnanCeduringthe Цubり ana Summer FediVal atthe outdoor K":hnko

place.In many ways the city whose name almost means`beloved'r″ らヶ α, in “ `″ SIovene does nOt feel llkc an industrious municipaliり 。f naiond impOrtalce but a pleasant,selicOntentd town with respon‐ sp

ng

and summer when cari6● bles■ 1lthe naTow

iI°

M配

:L:°

v∫

ery

ne"ning° m at he

Re‖ sh theね まe ofρ ′ esκ a′ wnh a"arat tho Pod Ro2niko,vl restaurant“

‖ 。w_‖ ned walkways Of the Ljubl,anica River or the Trail of

e Stroll along the M‖

Remembmnce aЮ

streets ofthe 01d TOwn and street musicians

lGla‖

theatЮ

・]朧 ・

sibilities only to itself and its citizens.You

mightthink tta wayt00,espec口 lyin

Venian an atthe Na」 ona1

und the city

(bOth free agen"and hi“ d help)enten」 n by On C:opova ulica and PreSernov

passers―

trg.■ len町 ubuana becomes a lime Prague

withOut the crowds Or a nlore ntanagcable Pa

′

s.

With sornc 25,000 students attending 巧ublanaUniversity's14 facumes and three art academies,thccity feels yOung and ofiFcll, all the facilities yOu'1l need during your stay.

And among the fine baroque churches, palaces and quaint bridges,yOu'1l sec a lot Of

greenery.A largc park called Tiv。 li and the vestern bordcr

hills beyond it iOrnl the city's、

and wi1low‐ lined walkways follow thc Liubjmica RiVer and its canals.A much rヽ longer trail,a legacy Ofヽ 西 「Ⅱ,conlpletely

Rcnlnants Of these dwellings can be scen in

the lNational Museurn. These early people were followed by thc nlynans and,in about

encides me city as a kind ofpedestriarring road'and is a boon for thosc who want to

400 BC,the Celts,who settlcd」 ong the

escape the carly rllorning fog endenllc tO the

LJubuanica.

CiW in autumn ald Winte■

The irstimpo■ ant settlcmcntin thc a・ ca, howevcr, canle with the arriva1 0f the Romans who built a militay cainp het in

HiSTORY 巧 ubjma

nSt"pCaed in pnntin l144ぉ

the ccntu57 plに ccding the bi■ h of Ch st. Within l(Ю yeas,whtt had bec。 lnc known as Emona was ath ving tOwn and a strategic

thetown ofLalbach butawhOle10t more had taken Place here befOre that.The area to the south,an infe■ lle bOg,was scttled du ng the

CrOSSrOadS On the rOutes linking lRoman Pannonia in the sOuth with colonies at NOncumandAquileia.LegaCies ofthe Romm

Bronze Age by marsh dwelles who lived in round huts on stits sunk intO the soggy s011.

80

LJubljana― Orientation 8 1

presence-1″ alls,dwcllings,carly churchcs ―cm still be seen thoughout巧 ubuana

・I'hc rail、 vay linking ・ riestc and ヽ′ ienna К¨ hcd巧 ublana in 1849 and stimulated

Emona was sacked and evcntually

development ofthe town,By then LJublana

destroyed by the lluns,(:)strogoths and

had becorne the ccntrc of Slovenian nation―

lし

angobards frorn thc 5th century, but the

`巧 ubljana

Gate'rcmaincd an important

crossing point bctwccn cast and west.Tribes ofcarly Slavs settled here in tllc 6th century. Iし

jubtana Changed handS frequently in the

ed townbetweenCastle HillandtheLjublanica Middle Ages.In the 12th century the fo■

1■

River was in thc possession ofthc Dukes of Carinthiao Within lCЮ

years,it was trans―

I｀

alis■l

under Austrian rule. Writers and

nationalists like Francc Pregeren and lvan (Elankar producedthe bulk oftheirwork he“ Slovenes bcgan toJoin the town goverllrnent

).

ty in 1882.But in and emerged as a maJo 1895帥 other earthquよ e stmck LJub」 ma, forcing the city to rcbuild oncc again. 1lo Ljub」 ana's great beneit,the SeceSsiOniSt and Art Nouveau styles were ali the rage in

ferred tO the rulcrs of the ncw Duchy of

ccntrd Europe at thc tilnc,and many won‐

Carnlola,who lnade it thcir capital.The last and lnOst mOmentous change cal■ e in 1335 when the Habsburgs becal■ e thc town's new

derful buildings were erected― structulK,s thc

rulers.Exccpt for a bnef intrlude in the carly 19th century, they would remaln thc

ground.

City'S(and the natiOn'S)maSterS until the end of Wヽ VIin 1918.

The Habsburgs turned LJublana into an inlportanttrading centrc and nlade it an epis―

(二

〕 orninunists would later condenin as

`bourgeois' and `dccadent' and raze to the

Slovenia and its capital Joined the K【

ingdonl of the Serbs,C:roats and Slovenes

a■

erWWI.Dunng WWΠ

the city was occu―

pied by thc ltalians and then the Gernlans,

who cncirclcd the city with barbed‐ wire

copa se江 ;it wOuld later becOnle thc centre

fencing crcating,in effect,an urban concen‐

of thc lProtestant Refol■ nation in Slovenia.

廿江iOn Camp.町 ub増 籠la beCamC thC Capit」

The tOwn and its new hi11-top castle(1415) were ablc to repel tlle l｀ urks in the 15th

of the Socialist Republic of Slovenia within ugosiavia in 1945 and remained tlle capital ainier s10venia's independence in 1991.

century,but adevastatingearthquake in 15 11

lkう

duced much of medieval Ljubljana to “ rubble.1'his led to a period of frantic con_ struction in thc 17th and 18th centuries which pЮ vided LJub」 ana with many ofits pale― coloured bar()quc churches and rnan― sions― and the nicknante`Bcla LJubjana' (White L」 ub」 ma).Thc town w」 Is were pu■ ed dOWn tO d10W ttubljana tO eXpand, .sh was partly drained.

ORIENTAT:ON Ljub」 ana lies in the Ljubljana Basin

(Liubljanska Kotlina),wich runs to the no■ h and no■ h― west along the Sava Riverto

Kranj.The bぉ in brmstwo distinct parts:thc non―

arable巧 ubljana Mash(LJubtansko

and the southern m′ ピ But the mostilnportant engineering feat was thc const:uction of a canal to the south and east of castle Hill that regulated the now Of the Ljubljanica and P“ Vented iooding.

Baje)tO the SOuth and thCお nile巧 ubtana Plain(LJublalsko Polje)to ttc no■ h and

When Napoleon establishcd his 11lynan

east.Thc珂 ublmica Rver and thc Gmbcr

Provinces in 1809 in a bid to cut Habsburg Austria's access to the Adriatic, he inade 巧ubljana the Cttitd,aS it κmainCd undi 1813.In 1821 mcinbers ofthe Holy Alliance

(Ausiia,Prussia,Russia and Naples)met江

cast.Thc city is wedged between the Polhov

Gradec Hills to the west and Gdovcc Hms (inCluding CaStle Hi11)b the eaSt and SOuth― (Elanal have effectivcly turned a large part of

cent」 LJubljana into an isiand. All this gcography is illlpo■ antin ordertO understand how thc city has developed and coninucs to grow.If you look at a rnap or

the(〕 ong,ess ofL′ albach to discuss lneasurcs

Stand atOp町 ub」 ma'Siandmak

to suppressthe denlocratic revolutionary and national inovernents in iEurope.

yOu'1l SeC thtt the Ciけ like tく )the

SttSCrapet

h`S had tO eXpand fan‐

north and east;hills and unstable

く Ｚ く つＪ 饉 つ つ〓

82 Greater ttublma

t

′ ゛ ぴ ８ ■■ ８

♭ユ    一ヽ Ⅷ

ざ

ミヽ

ミミ

Fe

“嘔”一 ロ ︻０● 一

ヽ

grOund have prevented growth in tlle other

Maps

directions. dist

The tourist ofice as well as inany hotels hmd outa free map of LJub」 ana that should takc carc of most people's nccds. If you

to travellers.

intend staying longerin the capital orexplor―

enter is the corninercial area on the left bank ofthe LJub」 anica Ю the west and nonh

ing it in depth, pick up a copy of the И ′ pub― l:20,0(Ю ― scde L′ bケ αれa Cカ ツ 」 “ lristitute of Slovenia lished by thc Geodesic (GZS;850 SIT).Thc l:15,000々 らヶα″α “ E“ οα クmap from RV Verlagis aso widely “ availablc.

onally dividcd mto■ ve LJubliana is rad cts but only afcw arc ofany ilnportance (1〕

I´

of Castle Hill and the Old Town.Tabor and

Poume tte thc etttemmost pans of Centet and lBcを igrad,wherc thc bulk ofthc univcr― sity buildings are,lics to the north.1ヽ

vo old

suburbstO the sOuth of(Elenter― :Krakovo and ・ rnov。 一retaln a lot of their old character I｀

Cenain streets and squares(ё OpovaulК a,

:NFORMバ T10N

TrubalieVaCeSta,PreSernOV trg)and muCh Of the 01d'Ilown are reserved for pedestianS 帥 d cyclists』 he LJublanicais cЮ ssedby a dozen vehicular bndgcs and footbridges and thrcc of thcm― ShOemakCr Bridge(Cevl―

￢ourist Offices

jash Most),Triple Bridgc(Tromostov]C)

and DragOn Bndge(Zma」 ski Most)一

a・

e

'I｀

he best ofice any、 vherc for infornlation not

just on LJubljana but」 l of Slovenia is the TOurist lnお rmatiOn centre(TIC;● 133 0111;fax 133 0244)in thc histoHc」 Krcsija building sOuth― cast of Triplc 13ridge at

Mだ kova

ulica l.The巧 ubuana PЮ motion

anOthcr On Trg C)svobodilne Fronte(known

Centre,which runs the TIC,cinploys stu― dents dunng sunlllner lnonths whoそ re vcry cnthusiastic about their country and your

histOncally irnponant. The traln and bus stations arc opposite one

as Trg OF)at the nonhem end of Ccnter

interest in it.Though they can book accom―

Slovcnska cesta, the capital's lnaln thor― oughfare,is 350m to thc south― wcst.Tlo get

mOdatiOn Only m巧 ubljana,thCy Can help

to central PreSernov trg, hcad s(outh on Mi鳳 oこ iё eva cesta(6(Ю m).

is Open wcekdays from 8 ain to 7 pnl and on

with infornlation on a1l ofSlovenia.′

Saturday from 9 aln to 5 pnl.′ rhe TIC〕

pay dirnensions

The the meets the where it mates with he

So

says Of binh wh‖

e

is the the litio

ofthe

■le Ljubliana BЮ weり,wheЮ myieyline

outsidё

The TIC

b

report

branch

ｒｃＣ●Ｆ﹂＞Ｚ＞

LJubljana― Inお nnation 83

84巧 ubljma― office (憫 P133

Inbrinaion

9475)at the train station

betweenthe main dcketh」 land platlormNo l iS Olpen daily(inCluding Sunday)June tO Septclnber彙 om 8 ain to 9 Pin.Dunng the rest ofthe year the dally hours are 10 arn to

6pm.The TIC is worth vis

ngjustto pick

up its frec inaps and brochures especially the

Money There's a culTency exchange bureau run by SIovenlJaturist in the traln station next to the

TIC ofnce.Itis open daly from 6 am to 10 p■1.Theら Л グιcみ α″g′ at the bus sta」 On “`αfrom “ 5.30 am to 9 pm. is open dally Ylou'1l ind SiKBI Banka Cirrus― linkcd

′ α′げ ′ 力ιRψ b″ Cげ S′ ο― automatic te■ er m∝ hincs(ATMs)“ atered 々 ら α′Gα′′ ツ“′ α map mdthe々 α ″ α″“ あ ′tOuriSt throughout the city,includmg ones■ Trg あ ケ `″ "″

“ of in3ol■ “ nation. guide,which is a goldnline Backpackers and students should head for

the Erazem travel oficc(● 1331076)at Trub″jeva cesta 7.The star provide inお ←

Aidovttina 4,in thc vcry ccntrc of the big shopping inall;outside the Ernona Globtour agency in the lEInona Maxllnarket passage―

way connecting Trg Republike with

rnaion,make bookings,sell Lonely lPlanet guidebooks and have a lncssagc board.They also sell ISIC cads(8(Ю SIT)and,お r mosc

Pleё nikov trgt and in the(3)ledaliSka pasaZa

under26but notstudying,FlYTOca・ ds(7CX)

へidOV“ ina

SIT).Erazem is oI℃ n weckdays from 10 atn

to 5 pin.Mladi Tunst(● 1259260),at Salendrova ulica 4 ncar the Municipal Museunl,istheofice ofthe Siovenian,Ylouth 11lostel Association and sells hostel cards (80C)SIT lor thosc undcr 18 ycall, of age,

connecting Copova ulica with Nazoricva

ulica.Nextto me SKB Bmka ATM on Trg iS a Cur“ nCy‐ eXChange

m¨

hne

that changes thc banknotes of 18 countnes into tolar.

Soine of the best rates of exchange in ubuana are avdlめ le tt Nova Liub」 anska Bttka at Trg Republike 2.Itis opcn weck― days floln 8 amto5 pmandon Saturday frorn L」

1200 SIT forthosc between 18 and 26,1800 for thosc ovcr 26).・ he ofice is open froln 9 arn to 3 pFn On Monday and F.riday

9 ain dll noon.Three other centtal Nova LJublmskaBankabranches ac at Subiё eva

and to 5:prn′ F'ucsday to′I・hursday.

pin on Ⅵζ ednesday);in the beautiful A Iouveau Citv Savings IBIank building (Mestna Hranilnica町 u5janska)at Copov五 ulica 3(open 9 anlto noon and 2 to 5 pm

S11｀

I｀

The Cultur」 Infonnaion Centrc(● 214 025)nextto Trg RmcosL Revoluc」 e7can mswcr qucstions about what's on in Liub‐

ulica 2(open weckdays 8 anlto 5 pm,」 116 Tヽ

city's inuseuins,gdic

ljana and has a free booklet listing」 l the cs and exhibitions. It's open fronl 10 ainto 6 pnland on Saturday

weckdays,till noon Saturday)and at Mcsmi trg 16 in the 01d TOwn(Open 9 am to noon

to l Pm (and again"om 4 to 7 pin in

VⅥednCSday).

Summer).

and 2 to 5 pm weckdays, til1 6 p■ l on Ljublana is ful1 0f private exchange

The nlain ofice ofthe Alpine Association

of Slovenia(PZS;● 134 3022)is at I:)vor:`akova ulica 9,a snlall hOuse set back

from the strcct. It has in10rnlation about

buκ aus r″ ノ α′ ″icι ,ta ng no commission `″ and offeringgoodexchangcrates.One called Hida has a branch in the Centrd Ma・ ket at POgarё arueV trg 1 0pcn weckdays from 7 an

hiking throughOut the country and sorne ′ rhe

to 7 pm and on Saturdayt0 2 prn,and anc)ther

cxcellent rnaps and guides for sale.

one at Copova ulica 42 open weekdays frOm

OfiCe is open weekdays frorn 8 ain to 2 prn

8 anlto 8 prn and on Saturday t。 l prn.

(til1 6 prn on Monday). Motorists in need Of assistance or advice cm cont¨ tthc Avto― Moto Zveza S10vcnije

Credit Cards A Banka,with a branch a

(AMZS;●

ain to 5 pin and ili nOOn on Saturday)and

341341)at Dunttska cesta 128,

Slovenska ccsta 50(open wcekdays from 8

about 3knl north of Clcntcr lt's open wcck‐

another one to the south at Slovenska ccsta

days from 7 arn to 7.30 pm and on Saturday

9(Open Weekdays■ oln 9 am to 4 pln,to 3

tili noon,but you can telephone for infOrnla_ tion daily between 5.30 anl and 9 prn.

pin on Fnday),is a 10c」 rep for Visa and can

issue a tolar cash advance on your card.It

takes a l%cOrnlnission forcashing travellers

www.uni-lj.si

LJubuana University(chcck out he Welcome

cheques,though.If you have problerns with your Visa card when A Bankais closed,call the Visa Centre(●

302055).

Inお rm江lon 85

chapter with P“ Ctic」 inぬ an4ion for fOreign StudentS)

WWW.nuk.um■ Si N“ iond ald Univcrsity Libraγ 1・

Eurocard and MastcdClard holdcrs should

gotoNovaLiubjmskaBanka(● 1250155) a Trg Rcpublike 2.

Atlas Express(● 133 2024 or● 131 902o)at TrubarJeva cesta 50 isthe Slovenian representative for American Express and can replace cards,make cash advanCeS and hold clicnts'inal ltis open weekdays from 9 am to 5 prll and Saturday till noon.

www.ljudmll″ org/ LJublJma Digid Mdia Lb(linb with hc muld‐

rnedia group Ncuc Slowenische Kunst, thc MOST‐ SIC volunta)r work organisalon ac) WWWljud:mla.Orノ SrCe/ Student Rcsolrce Cen●e WWW.ljudmlla.Orノ Siqr(V

Q¨ erRcsources

Dircctory for gγ S and lesbians

wwwng― slo.si

N“iond Galcry WWW・ mJC-lj・ Si hternaiOnd Centre ofGraphic Arts

Post&Commlunications

www.arncs.sy

The pOst office where poste restante is sent

Acadenlic and Research Network of SIovenia

and held for 30 davs onlv is at Slovenska cesta 32 on the corner of(〕 opova ulica;have

F'or nlore listings see〈

thc folks at hornc use thc post code l101.It

isitor chaptcr Facts lor thcヽ ′

also sells boxes lor sending things hoinc frorn 170 to 280 Srr.′ he Slovenska cesta

public― access lntcrnet sites:

I｀

pOst Office is Open weckdays fron1 7 anlto 8 prn and on Saturday to l p■ 1. 1110u can inake long‐ distancc telephonc calls frorn booths herc as well as send faxes and telexcs,but the rnain telephone ccntre is

Liubljana counts two cybe∝ a“ S With

Klub K4 Ca“ Kersnikova ulica 4(●

1317010).Open daly 10

alin o 9 pm.

Club Podhod ρの bctween ln the undcrpass passage r′ ο′′

in tlle post ofFice at PraZakova ulica 3,to thc

KOngrcsni trg and PlcCnikov trg(●

north near thc bus and train stations.It is

12141(Ю ).

Opcn wcckdaysfrom 7.30 anto 2.30 or3 am,on S“ urday from 8 am to 3 am and on Sunday iom

opcn from 7 anlto 8 prn weckdays and to 3 pn1 0n Saturday. Next door at lヽ To 5 is Telekom Slovenije. T10 inall a paFCel yOu rnuSt gO tO thC SpeCial

)nline Services in the

7pm Ю 2am.COmputerscan be usd u

18 pm

Trave:Agencies

custolns post office at Trg()iF 5,due west of

All ofthebig agencies have oficesin Centct

thc train station and oppositc the l)us station.

Kompas Holidays(● 125 2065)is at

Makc sure you bring your package open for

Slovenska cesta 36 and at MikloSiё eva cesta

inspection;the maxilnum weight is about 15kg, dcpending on the destination.This post office is open 24 hours a day.

ll(● 1321053)while Emona Globtour (●

213843)is in the Emona Maximarket

passageway connecting Trg Repubhke with Pleё nikov trg.SIovenjaunst(● 1315055 or t,1315206)at Slovenska cesta 58 and at

Online Services orgmisations

Here a“ some LJubuana―b郎 and associadons with V`cb sites:“

thc train station is your best s(ource ofinfor‐

■lationfordetailsofralltravel.1'hese offices a℃ gener」 ly open froin 8.30 or9 am■

o6or

7 plTl wcekdays and tili noon or i pΠl on www.ljublJana.si/ City of L」 ub」

Saturday.

ma

www.cd― cc.si

BookshoPS

Cmk″jev Dom

wwwた suv」 _1.sy

LJubljana Summcr FcstivaVK

ねnkc

Mladinska Knjiga a SIovcnska ccsta 29 is mc biggest b00kshOp in巧 ubliana and h郎

Ｆ﹂Ｃ口Ｆ﹂＞Ｚ＞

巧ubljana―

く２く﹁コロつ﹁Ｊ

86 1jublJana― Things to Sec picture books, guides and rnaps to every comer of thc country as wcllぉ books in

(●

mglish on othcr subjccts.It is。 days froin 8 anito 7.30 pm and on Saturday "n weck_

opens on weekdays only frol■ 8am to7 pm. Outside is a bust ofthe Fl℃ nch Gothic nov‐

The lnstitut Fran9ais Charles Nodier 224883)is a Slovcnska cesta 19 and

to l pm.IMK(as it's known)has several

elist Nodier(1780-1844), who lived and

snlaller branchcs in thc city,including onc opposite the train station at MikloSiё eva

workcd in LJublJana in 1812-13.

cesta 40 and another atlヽ TazorJeva ulica l.

A sm」 ler chain with knowledgeable and

The Deutscher Lesesaal(● 1763725)at Trg Republike 3 is open on Mondり from 9 anlto l pin and 2 to 6 prn,in the aftemoon

hclpf1l staff is CankarJCVa Zaloを ba with an

only on'Tucsday,and in thc rnorning only

outlct at Slovenska cesta 37.'I'hey keep the

fromヽ Viednesday to Fnday.

same hours as MK.Canka:ieva Z」 oを ba's Oxお d Center at Kopita:jeva ulica 2 socks

Laundry

】 Ξ IngliSh-languagC

(〕

titleS Only,inCluding SOFne

etting your clothes、 vashed is a problenl in

町ubljana,asitis evcwwhere in SIovenia A couple of the student dormitories have

novels,butis really aiined at Slovcnes study―

ing our language.DZS,with branches at acadenlic titles and reference books.

washing nlachines and dryers that you can use― the Dijぶ ki Dom Pouane(see Hosteis

Thc bcst sclection of mtts in Liubljma can bc found at a shop called Kod&:Kam―

&Student Dormito es under Haces to Stay) and the Dj蕊 鳳 Dom Kam(Bunding C)at

meaning roughly`Whence&ヽ Vhither'一

Ka・ deljeva ploRad 14,no■ h ofthc centre in Bcを igrad andncatheDlぶ ki Dom BeZigrad ―as does the Jeを ica canlp site.Mchurё ek is

Subiё cva ulica la and Mestni trg 26, has

at

Trg Francoske Revolucije 7 opposite thc КlliZanke. It stocks most city,regional and hiking FnapS prOduCed in the COuntry aS Well as irnpo■ ed maps and guidcs,including thc Iコ

oncly Planct scrics. It is open weekdays

iom 9 am to 7 pm and on Saturday iom 8 am to l prn.The Geographical Museurn is also based hcre.「 here's a second― handノ and― I｀

quanan bookshop called Trubar]ev Antik―

a self― service place at Vlζ ka cesta 54 open weekdays fron1 8 am■ o8Pm and Saturday to l pm,but it's about 3.5km south‐ west of Center(bus No 6 Ю Viё ).Alba at V olお va ulica 12 nea Prcgemov trg is an old‐ style

laundry and dry cleaner Open weckdays frorn 7 am to 6 prn.

vanat at Mestnitrg 25.

For breign newspapers,go to the LJub―

1袖 ёck gift shop in thc lobby ofぬ c Grand Hotel Union.The shop is Opcn weekdays

Medical Services lrlou can sec a《 10ctOr at thc rnedical ccntre rた

′ れ′ dれ J ε ι れたr;● 133 6236 or● 1313123)

1,on Saturday fron1 8 am to l prn,and on Sunday from 6to

at ZaloSka ccsta 7,which is in'Ilabor cast of

9 prn.

● 323060)is open 24 hours a day.The

fron1 8 ain to 2 pnl and 5to 9 p■

the Pakhotel.Theemergencyunitr“ ′ 8`″ cα

;

dental clinic(1'325288)is alinost opposite

Cuitural Centres The Bntish Council(●

at Zalogka ccsta 2.

1259292)is located

For a phTm¨ y`′ ιたα αりhead br the

on thc 3rd floor of the Skvscraper at StefanOVa ulica l. It is opcn Monday,

“ Centralna Lekarna(Central Pharmacy;

Ⅵバ ednesday and Friday from 10 am to 3 pm, ′ uesday and′rhursday frorn 2 to 7 prn and

days[om 8 am to 7 pin and on Saurday

I｀

fron1 9 arn to l pnl On the irst Saturday Of

every month.

● 1335044),PrcScrnOv trg 5,open weck‐

mOrning to l pm, or Lekarna MikloSiё (● 314558)at Miklogiё eva cesta 24,open daily frorn 8 anl to 8 prn.

The American Center(奮 210190),Can― kar」 eVa cesta ll,is opcn Monday,Tuesday, Thursday and Fnday fronl noon to 4 pnl and Wednesday iom 9 am Ю 4 pm.

TH:NGS TO SEE ThC CaSieSt Way tO sec the bestthat LJub」 has tO offer and still enjoy a leisuに

ma

ly stroll

is to follow the w」 king tour outlined on the 力ιRυ あJた げ m叩 り 妨 α″αr Cα″ ″′グ ′

“ well “ οッι″た L avalable free from thc TIC as as at nlany hotcls and sornc restaurants

mouS ChOir but Ю the left(WeSt)。

fthC man

altar, designed by the ltalian sculptor

S′

Francesco lRobba,is a glass― fronted colFin

around thc city.

with the spooky remains of a saint.Like many chuК hes in Ljubuana,the Fmnciscan

I've brokcn the tour up into cight sections

which can be done inclividually or togetllcr

witll preceding or subscquent oncs.If you nin straight though thern and■ lake no stops, all eight shouldn'ttake much inore than half a day.】 BIut count on a full day if you cxpect

tO see cverything and even longer if you intnd visiting」 l the museums too.:MIany

church is open fronl inorning till dusk but c10ses frOrn about noon to 3 pm. Attached to thc Church on the、

vestern side

is the Franc:scan mOnaStery,with a vcry west ll■ pOnant library.Neaby in the south‐ cOmer Of the square is a brOnze re:ief map OfthC Ciサ・ Walk north along MikloSiё eva cesta from

sights hNc plaques outsidc identifying and providing histoncal information in four lan― guagcs,including iEnglish.

the Urbanc building and don't iniss thc

Around Preこ ernov Trg Bcgin the tour at PreSernOV trg,a beautiful

two wornen holding al)echive and a purse― symbols of industry and wcalth.The Coop‐

square that fonns the link between Clenter

erative i3ank at No 8 was designed by lvan

and the 01d′ ]own and always a hub of activ―

surninet the steps at thc basc of the plinth

Vurnik,and thc red,ye1low and blue geo― mctric p■ tems were paintcd by his wifc Hclcna in 1922.Just oppositc is the newly ′ l℃ novated Grand Hote:union,the grα ″ ` あ ″ιOf珂 ubjmahotels.A sho■ distance to the north‐ west is Mik:oこ :Oev Park,laid out

(With mOtifS iOmPreSCCn'SpOemS)beCOme a sitting‐ Out area br LJubljana's young

by Maks F'abiani in 1902.All thc buildings facing it are Art Nouveau inasterpieces,with

bloods and lorcigners alike.

me cxcepdOn ofthc unspeよ able Go“ njska

TO the castOfthe monumcntat No 5 isthe ■alianate Centrai Pharmlacy,which was a

Banka to the south on l)almatinova ulica.

sevcral ine buildings along the way. The

crcam_c010ured People's Loan 13ank (1908)飩 No 4 is toppcd with the figures of

iサ .Taking

pridc of place in thc squ=eis me

preseren :nOnunnent designcd by Maks

F'abiani and lvan l乙 alc and erected in 1905 in

honour of Slovenia's greatest hcro. In

fainOus ca16 frequented by intcllectuals in

Market Area

the 19th century, and to the north, on the cOmer Of Trubarieva cesta and MikloMё eva ccsta, the delightful secessionist iurbanc building (1903), now the([〕 cntromerkur depa■ mcnt store.I)iagonally across the

Fronl Prcも ernov trg,cross into the C)ld Tlown via the￢ riple lBridge(1｀ romostovic),once

square at No l is another Secessionist gem.

thing quite unique for SIovcnia and the

The ura building,nOw marrcd by a citizen

world. IIc also designed the covered

watch sign above it,was once a shop for

walkway along the nvet the recently reno―

painters and thus is very gaily decorated. P'certwo doors down Vい olfova ulica and at No 4 you'1l sec a tclTacotta figure peeking

vated Piecnik coionnade,which fOrms pain of mc city's Centra:Market. vith its Walk through I》 ogarё ar]ev trg 、

out from a`window'.It's Julija Primic

wOndcrful open― air market and old inen and

looking at the nlonurnent to her life‐ long

women selling everything,om forest berries and wild mushrooms to home― made

`Klmicr Fmncecentury Pregeren. T'he 17th Franciscan Church of

the Annunciation stands on the northern ′ he interior is not so side of the square. 「 interesting with its six side altars and enor‐

the Spit」

Bndge dating from 1842.Thc

pr011■ C七 日 rChiteCt JOこ C PICё nik added the tWO

sides almost a ccntury laterわ create somc‐

checses like soft white sJ´ び

and honey. `た alJev trg was The strange cone in Pogarё

eК cted in honour of Pleё nik in 1993.It ep― resents the Parliament building he designed

ＦＬＣ鬱Ｆ﹂＞Ｚ＞

LJubljana― Thingsto Sce 87

ｒｒ 搬

く Ｚ く ﹁コ ｍ ⊃ つコ

88 Ljubliana

鶴潔 `an″

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♂ 0● 4

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“  ″ 鰤  輸

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g:li臨 ′ 〕

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κ´ 漱 loν●

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風尾 I出 2躍

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× ①浄 Ljubljana

￨

Ｆ﹂Ｃ●Ｆ﹂＞Ｚン

Ljublana 89

90 LjublJana―

′ I｀

hings to Sec

PLACES TO STAY 21 ■voli Hotel

11

22

12

31

Lev Hotel AustЮ tel&

13

Llubliana Casino Park Hotel Diiaも ki Dom Tabor

6 McDonald's

32

MI Monroe Restaurant

&Kinoteka 35 Evropa Caf6 37 Tavё anev Hram :8 61

8:]Re吉 ;』 ￨!:ria 0perna Klet

65 Emona Maximarket& Maxim Self‐ Seivice

Restaurant

75

Shan9hai Chinese

76

Zlati Pav Chinese Restaurant

Redaurant 77 1Moson Dun Fe‖ pe

OTHER

l Modem Hisわ り Museurn

2

Vinoteka Si!Tlon Bradeも ko

3 Llubliana Fairgrounds 4 Youth Theatre 5 Propoganda Klub l& Onto Bar 7

Train Station

8 City Ai「 port Buses

9 PO執 0協 Ce(CuStOmS) 10

Bus Station

15 ６ ７ ８ ９ ０３４ ５６ ７８９０ ３ ６８９０１ ２ ３ １ １   １    １  ２２ ２  ２ ２ ２２２３   ３     鉾３３３ ４４ ４ ４

PLACES TO EAT

14

Mladinska Knliga

Bookshop Kompas Cinema

Dental Clinic

47

0rthodox Church Of St Peter

■01ekom SIoVenile Main Post(〕 ‖ice

48

Ro9 Bicycle Shop 51 A‖ as Express

SIoVenilaturiSt TraVel

Agency&Burok

(American Express)

52 Hard Rock Music Shop 53 Laura C)rats Shop 54 Eurodo‖ ar Car Renta:s 55 National Ga‖ ery 56 Serbian O■ hodox

Stand Kodak Express Alpine Association of

SIoVenia(PZS)

Church

Zlati Klub Sauna&

Klub Manhatan

57 Museum of Modern An 58 National Mu",um

Disco Tvoli Recreation Centre

59

‖ i可 a SWimming P。。 ￨

Lovec Riding Shop

Adna Airways& Minam's Pub Klub K4,も OU Centre &Klub Metropol City Bus￢ cket Kiosks Visa Card Centre

10pera House

60 American Center

62 Pa‖ iarlent 63

DZS Bookshop

64

Emona Globtour Travel

66

Nova Liublianska

Lufthansa

Agency&SKB ATM Banka

67 UK Embassy, Deutscher Lesesaal

&Adria Airways

US Embassy

68 Cankalev Dom

&Henz Car Rentals

69 Ferant Carden&

Kompas Trave!Agency ZZZS(Health

(Cuitunl CentЮ ) RolTlan Rulns

lnsurance lnstitute Of SIoVenia)

A Banka

70 National Dmma Theatre

71 Mikrokop Kodak

Bicycle Club SIoVenilaSp。 ■

Gala Dvorana Club Club■ ■any Channel Zero Club

Ethnographic Museum

72

Express

A Banka&Jakopiё Ga‖ ery

73 (〕 ord Book Centre

74

Puppet Theatre&St James Thedre

UniVerSi″ C‖ niC Centre

but never built forthe top of Castle IIill.′

I｀

he

building on the sOuth― west sidc Of Pogarё ar」 cv trg isthe Rcnassance BIshop's

Pa:aCe(Skoijski Dvo“ c)with a 10vely arCadCd COurtyard・

46

ThC Seminary(SCm―

eniRe; 1749)to the east,with its pock_

tOWered building iS fronl the carly 18th century.Inside it's a barOque palace of pink nlarble,whitc stuccO and gilt with frescOcs

by Matcvを Langus.IIave a look atthe rnag― nincent cl霞 wcd choir stalls,。 rgan and the sweet faces ofthe angcls On thc mdn dtar, anOther creation of F.rancesco Robba。 「Fllc

rnarkcd Atlases outside, contalns valuable baroque furnishings and a libralう ′ With pncc― leSs incunabula and 16th century nlanu―

Pietainthe glasscase on the outside southern

scripts.It can be visited by appointnlent only.

door(1996)depicting six bishops and the

There's a rna・ ket with nlcat,■ sh and dalry

dead Christin re■ ef.

products on thc ground■ oo■ Dolninating thc square is the Cathedrai

LJubtanё anilike to cat,cOntinue eastwttd tO

(St01niCa)dedicated to Salnt Nicholas, the patrOn Of bOatnlen and iSherinen (C10Sed noonto 3 pm).A church has stood hcc since thc 12th century, but the existing twin―

Wall is a copy.Nearby is a stunning bronze

If you want a cioscr loOk at what ｀ 4odnikov trg where there's yet another ヽ Outdoor nlarket.F.rorn hcre yOu could crOss ciril―

Metodov trg and begin waking up

Studentovsika ulica to the castle,a,elatively

LJubljana― Thingsto Scc 91

steep, 15-■ 1lnute climb.Instead,u'e'll con― tinuc walking wcst along Ciril― Metodov trg to onc of the pretticst squarcs in the city.

from (lecay, it ntay soon be nloved to the cou yard between the old and ncw wings of the National Gallery and a copy put in its place.

From Mestni trg you can make a sm」

oid Town Mestni trg has two maJOr landmarks.Thc Magistrat(town h」 1),sca ofthc ciり gov‐ cmment,was erectcd in thc lae 15th ccntury but rebuilt in 1718. The(〕 othic courtyard inside,arcaded on two levels,iS WhCre the―

atrical perfoITnances once took place and contains sorne lovely sgrafiti.If you look

1

detour wcst into Ribli trg with perhaps the oldcst housc(1528)in LJubljana still stmd― ing at No 2 and a golden fountain v th a grl in classical dress pounng water Mestni trg leads into Stari trg, the true heart Ofthe()ld・ 3own.More of a streetthan

a square with 19th century wooden shop

above tlle south poll,al leading to a second cou yad you'1lsce aК liefmap Of巧 ubliana as it appeared in the secOnd half Ofthe 17th century.

frOnts,quiet cOunyards and cobblestone pas― sagcways,Stari trg is a positive delight to

The town hall is topped with a golden dragOn,a symbol of Ljubtana but quite a

sOurcc of water・ I'he buildings fronting the

rcccnt one.A、 vily mayor at the ttlrn of the century apparently convinced the auth()nties

explore. From bchind thc houses on the eastenl side,paths once lcd t。

(C,astlc Hlll,a

nver had large passageways built to allow drainage in case of flooding. 1・ ranCa at No 4、 vas a prison untu the 18th ccntury,and those condernned to death wcre

in ViennathatttublananCCdedaneW CЮ SS― executed at a spot nearby in sOme fairly ing over ttc巧 山 tanicaRlveradt“ Dragon Bridge(Zmttsh Most)was built Ю mc no ― unpleaSant WayS(Strangul江 10n,drOWning, east.City folk say the dragons wag theirtals whcnever a virgin crosses thc bndge. In tlle rniddle of Mestni trg stands the Robba Fountain(1751)rnodellcd a■ er one

in Rolne.But thc Titons with their gushing

urns here rcpresent SOmething totally

being bumed tt thc stakc).Latcr it becanc mc ciり 's monOp01y bょ ery― thc only pl∝ c where bread could be sold. IJnscrupulous bakers who cheated custornerS got a dunking h the c。 ld wtters ofthe Ljubtanica.

A small strect Called Pod Tranё O just

Slovenian,thc thrcc riverS Of Carni01a(the

bcyond lcads to Shoennaker lBridge

Sava,【 ka and Ljubjanica).Ъ

(Ccv」 肛ski Most).Like di the bridges he“ in thc Middle Ages,this was a place oftrade

protect it

and a gateway to the town.CraiSinen worked and liVed On the bridgeS(in thiS CaSe

16 cobblers)to catch thc trafic and avoid

paying town taxes ― a kind of medieVal duty― iee setup.

Bctwccn Stan trg ll and 15-the housc bea]rthe nuinber 13-there'sa “ lovely rococo building called SchWeiger HOuse with a large Atlas suppo ing thc upper balcony. The igure has his inger

that sあ ο ′ `′

raised to llis lips as ifasking passers‐

by to be

quiet.Butthc owner,whose naine nicantthe `Silent()ne' in Gcnnan, rnight have had something other than sclf― promotion in

ヽ ‐′ ″

nllnd. In tllis part of thc worid, bordellos !t's said thatthe statues on lDragon i3ndge、

theirtails whenever a virgin passes by.

″ag

were raditiOndly 10catcd at housc No 13 of a strcct and he probably got quite a few unsolicited calls.

92町 ublana― Thngsto See In the iniddle ofLevstikov trg,the sOuth― ern extension of St`u・ l trg,the Hercules

courtyard Or peer through an Open door or Window,and you'1l sce that they lei thcir

Fountain is a favOuritc lmcedng placc in sum■ le■ IPcrhaps that's why a cOpy has

m″ k.

replaccd the origina1 17th century statuc, which is now in the town hall. The big church farther sOuth on starl trg isthe Church of St James.Far rnore inter―

thc Church of St Florian up to Castle Hill.

Alootpathc」 ledUlicanaCrad leads frOm

Llubllana Castle

eSting than the rnain altar(1732)by

T'here have been fOrtincations of soine kind or another on Castle Hill atleast since Celdc

F.rancesco Robba is thc one in thc church's

timeS,but the existing Liubljana Castic

Chape:of St Francis Xavier with statues of

a`White Queen'and a`Blκ k Kng'.Thc

(町 ub撃 msk Gmd)mostly dates fЮ m after tlle 15 1l carthquake. It is nOw frequendy

Colulmln of M'ary Ou“ ide to the south ofthe

used as a venue fOr cOncerts and other cul―

church was designed by Janez Vajkard

tural activities.

vavasor(well,atleastthe statue on top was) and erected in 1682 1n:nelllory ofthe victOry

over the ・I'urks at MonoSter(now Szent― gotthttd in Hungary)18 ycas c`rler.

Across Karlovζ ka ccsta is Gruber Palace

(Gmbejeva Pd“ a).Gabnel Grul“ t whO builtthecanal((]rube]ev Prekop)regulaung the Liubtalica,lived here unt■ 1784.The

The clinlb up the double wrOught_iron starcasc(150 steps)of the 19th century Castle￢ ower and a walk」 Ong the ram¨ parts is wO h the effort brthe vicws dOwn into the Old TOwn and across the river to cente■ The ceiung in the chapel of st

Ceorge(1489)iscoveredin frescoes andthe

pdacc is m ZOpfstyle,a transitiond ai style between late baroquc and neoclassicism,and

coats of arms ofthe Dukes of Ca■ iola:the Pentagonal Tlo、 nrer of the sOuthenl wing hosts changing exhibits. I11l the conlidor

now contans thc n■ iond archives.If you

beneath the courtyard is an cxhibition on the

look eastward on lKarlovSka cesta to No l,

you'1l sec a`bndgc Of sighs'that was Oncc the B」 kal Gate,thccascrnmostpOint ofthc

Old Town.From hcc tte tOwn w」 hdfway up Castle Hill.If yOu weκ

Is ran to con―

tinue south― east along Iく arlovSka cesta for

800m ald cЮ ssthe ttubtanica,you'd re¨ h thC BOtaniCai Carden(BOtaniё ni Vrt)at Iを

anska cesta 15 with sorne 450()species Of

ye`ェ

C)n soine days weddings(通 ℃ hel(l in the wing facing thc south_cast,so the casdc and

PentagOnd Tower(adinission 2α )/1α 〕SIr) have complicated opening hOurs: from ll ′

am to 6 pnl on ruesday,「 hursday and

Sunday and from l to 6 prn on Wcdnesday and Friday.The Casde Tower,hOwevcr,is open every day froln 10 an to dusk.

plantS and trees.Itis open Apnito C)ctOber 彙ol■ 7 alnto 7 pm and t0 5 pmthcrcstofthe

Ent,is free.You can dso reach here

on bus No 3(stop:StreliSё e). Gorniltrg is the casternextension OfSぬ

CaSie md uめ m“ vclopment ofLiub」 ma.

ri

trg.The iVe medieVa:houses at Gomgitrg 7 to 15 have narrow side passages where

Apath frOm bC10W mc WOstern Gate will bring you to ReberuliCa and Stantrg.lRcturn tO Pod Tranё o and cЮ ss Shoemaker Bridge;

the verv narrow street a few steps tO the north― west called ZidOvska ulica was Once the site of a synagOguc and the centre of JeWiSh life in theヽ 4iddle Ages.

rubbish was Once dcposited sO it could bc washcd dolwn into thc rive■ Thc most linportant building on this elon―

gated Squa・ C iS the Church of St FIorian

Center A lot of this district on the lcft bank of thc

is an area Of small houses Oncc inhabited by

巧ubtaniCa iS Wo h explo ng.If you go SOuth iOm Shoemaker Bndge to Breg,the City'Sp。 ■ when the LJubljanica was still naVigablC thiS far(a Steainb。 江 once c」 led frOm Vrhnika),and thcn wcst up Novitrg,

巧 ublana'S Strugglng mists.■ nturc into a

yOu'1l pass thc ACade:rly of Arts and Sci‐

built in 1672 and dedicated to the patrOn saint Of ires after a seriOus blaze destrOyed

much ofthe(DId llown.BcyOnd the church

ences(Akademija Znanosti in UmctnOSti) 。n yOurlei at No 3,which was once the scat

frOnl the fuchaeological dig in the inuseul■

1

cOu■ yard)plus a sc」 e model of Emona to

Ofthe PrOvincial Diet under thc Habsburgs.

help it all make sense. lJpstairs roorns

Thc National & UniVerSity Library

cOntain period furniture and houschold

(NTOdnain univerzitetna Knjttnica;1941), Pleё nik's inasterplece, is across(3osposka

ObjeCtS md O,C iS deVOted tO the WOrk Ofthe

ulica.1lo appreciatc nlOrc ofthis grcat man's

nluseunlis open′ 「 uesday to Saturday frorn 9

philosophy,entcr through thc main door on

TurJagka ulica and you'1l find yourself

pOet c)ton Zupanё

iё

(1878-1949).The

anlto 7 pm with guidcd tours on thc hout Adinlssion is 400/300 SI′

R

Diagondly opposite thc muscuin in Trg

almostin darkness With allthc black mablc.

But as you asCcnd the steps,you'1l enter a colonnadc ful of light― thc light of knowl― ′ edgc, according to Pleё nik's plans. rhe reading roorn with huge glass walls has sorne intcrcsting lamps also dcsigned by Pleё nik.

The Municipal Museum(Mesmi MuzeJ)

Francoske lRevo:ucile is the Klri2anke,a nlonastery cornplex that once bclonged to the ・Ileutonic ()rder of I(nights and now scrves as the headquarters of the LJubljma Surnrner iFestival. Its outsidc theatre a10ne seats 2000 people.Thei‖ rila Colulmin in the

is a few steps tO thc sOuth― cast at Gosposka

square is dedicated to Napoleon and his lllyr‐

ulica 15.It has a well prescrved collection of

ian PrOvinces(1809-13),when Slovene was

Roman artefacts(some of them

κcoVercd

st tiine,Monsieur taughtin sch001s fOr thc■ ■

Arch:tect Extraordinalre the wold have had as Joた o Pi。 lanik

a

and

was

1872, Co‖ o90 VViagner in

unll hls

fonned

Roman

lan and The list of‐

the Market and th0 churches in

Pleё nik's

the

the

Butin he 1980s he 『:lo"o orioss in favour 詢 d was● over

st"au“ ,b be the

federalist

built

Josip Broz

St Michael on the Marsh, near Llubliana

an

Ｆ﹂Ｃ口Ｆ﹂＞Ｚ＞

巧ubljana― Thingsto See 93

← 妙Ｚ 、

くＺく﹁コロ⊃つコ

94 Centrd巧 ubljana

￢ ●″dO`“ u

00

引

２▼

“

()

" ”

ヨ 血１ ７

n “

01″ ●●」 "

″ユ

Central Liubliana "0

血”

F

1"▲

■lore archaeological

Bonaparte actually ViSited his `capital'

library is being built,

duinng this period and stayed atthe Bishop's

excavadons are in progress.

vegova ulica runs north froin

Palace. S()uth― west of the square on

7 Ko,vlpas Holidays

lo Holidav lnn

ll Turは

Hobl&Kub

Central Disco

14 Grand Hotel Union 20 Sion BOSt Westem Hotel

89 Mrak Guesthouse

PLACES TO EAT

Travel A90ncy& Flex Ja22 Club

9 SKB Banka&ATM 12 Poko ShOe ShOp 15 Art Nouveau Bank Buildings

18 Eldorado〔 )isco

19ヨ

2 Sestica 8 Sknti Kot Self‐ SerVice

23 Kolmluna Cinemla 24 Post O■ ice (Po観 e Redante) 26 Art Nouveau City

Redaurant

13 T‖ 91av Sel― Ser1lCe Restaurant

16 Grand Hoじ Union Caf6

:

Union Cine:Tla

a

Fast‐

Food

Redlaurant

49 Ribca Seafood Bar 55 Kolovr漬 60 RotovЙ 65 Zlata Ribica

66 Bula De‖ catessen 67 De‖

kaOsa

76 Liublianski Dvo「

84 ёainh

Hiも

a Teahouse

88 :=oCuluS IP:zzeria

98 Pizzerla Rorieo 99 Ju‖ la Caf6 100 Nostalgia Caf6

105 Sichuan Chinese Restaurant

l10 Spalza Restaurant

OTHER 3 Skyscraper/Bntsh Council

4 Cankaiena Zalo2ba

Bookshop& L!ttlo Ga‖

ery

5 Vino Boutique 6 Holidays Pub

Department Store

30 Erazem Travel

68 C

zen Of Emona

Statuo

69 Ciub Podhod (lnternet Caf6)

70 Rock Caf6 71 School Museum Charles Nodier

74 Liubり ana University 75 Filharrnoniia

77 Theatre Musoum

78 Nova L,ublianska

Banka 79 Galerija La!a 80 Tranё a

Antiqua

81 Castie TOWer 82 Castle

lrish Pub

83 Pentagonal Tlower

Ｏｌ ａ ｌ ｅ前 ｔ

44 Rio Ham Ham

64 Koた o Ctrthr Hide Shop

Centromerkur

ｒ ａ 赫 雌 Ｂ 叫 ｏ ︰

32 Napoli Pizze

63 Dom Crats Shop

73 institut Francais

29 UrbanC Bu‖ ding&

５６７８９ ０１ １３ ３３“３３３３３ ４４

Redaurant 25 McDonaid'S&City

Car6 Galerila 62 Atlas Travol Agency (Ame can ExpЮ ss)

72 Ursu‖ ne Church

28 Franciscan Church

Honey Shop Pharmacy

PreSeren MonurTlent

Ho“ o's Tall Caf6-Pub Ura Bu‖ ding

CuW Sark Pub

85 AcadOmy of Ans &Sclencos 86 National&

univettitv ubrary

87 Giel Theatre& Equma Ga‖ ery 90 New UniverSiw Library Site

Mladinska Knり iga

Bookshop

42G荀 o

Ja22 Club 43 Nova lLjubuanska

Banka

45 Sidro Herbal Shop 46 Big Bang Music Shop &Alba Laundry

91 Kri2anko‐「icket Offico 92 1‖ rila Column 93 Cultural!nfOrnation Centre

94 Krittanko&PleCnikov

Hram CJ6

95 Kod&Kam Bookshop &Goographical

47 Emona BoatTou“

48■ou

st Orice(TIC)

50 Fruit&Vegetable Market 51 Cathedral of Saint Nicholas

52 Seminary&Hida

Exchange Bureau

53 MaRet

54 Bishop's Palace 56 ■own Ha‖ 57 Robba lFountain 58 Antika Ferian

at

Bookshop 61 Medna Cale■ a&

Llublianska Banka &Bik Butik Delicatessan

ｇａａ ｉ ｅ Ａ Ｃ Ｐｈ ゆ Ｃ

21 Dalrv Queen Food Dam Fa飢 ― 22 D可 ‐

59 Tmbariev Antikva

Savings Bank,Nova

27 Peko Shoe ShOp

17 SmЮ karieV Httm&

TheatЮ

Change

lll:」[I‐

l Super5 Fast‐ Food Restaurant

rrg

Francoske Revolucijc Past a row of bustS Of

Emonska cesta,where a new university

PLACES TO STAY

′

Museurn 96 Municipal Museum 97 Mladi TuriSt 101 Schweiger House 102 Parazol Crats Shop 103 SKUC Ga‖ ery 104 Hercules Fountain 106 Church of St Jamlos 107 Column of Mary 108 Gruber Palace 109 Former Ba:kan Gaね 111

Church of St Florian

Ｆ﹂⊂口Ｆ﹂＞Ｚ＞

巧ubljana_Things Ю See 95

96巧 ubljana_'Lingsto

Sce

Slovenian wnte16,scientists and musicians tO the Central building of Liubilana univeト

Sity,establishcd in 1919.The prOclam江 lon

latter ainassed byぬ e philal■ lropic BaЮ n .he Ziga ZoiS in the Carly 19th Century). ■

ROman glお S and thejeWencryお und in 6th

of independence was announced fiorn the

Century SlaViC graVeS iS pκ

balcony facing iく ongresnitrg in 1991.

the high

N2uned in hOnour ofthe Congress ofthe Holy Alliancc convened by Austtia,Prussia,

Russia and Naples in 1821 and hosted by Ljubuana,Kongresni trg cOntans severd iinportant buildings. Phi:harrnonic Hal: ettt cOmer is (Fllharmonija)On tte souぬ ‐ holneto the Slovenian Pは

lhamOnicOκ hes―

tra lounded in 1701 and one ofthc oldestin

the world.Haydn,Bcethoven and Brahms Were honorary membes ald Gustav Mahier

WЖ κSident COnductorお

r a seぉ on(1881-

82).The Ursunne Church of the Holy ￢rinity(1726)to the west is the mOst“

au―

tiful baroque building in Ljubtana and COntalnS a inultiC01oured dtar by Robba madc ofA■ ican marble.Itis O"n daly,om 7.30 to 9.30 anl and 10.30`un to 4.30 pm. As you dcscend into the subway that will takc you under Sl()venska cesta,lkecP an eye opcn fOr a snlall gilded statue on tOp Of a COlumn・ It'S a COpy(血 e O gind iS m the

tけ Stalda・d fa℃ ;

ght hcre isthc Vaoe s:tuia,a Celdc

pail frorn the 5th or 6th century EIC uncarthed in a bwn eぉ t of ljublana.′ nle relief around the situla shows rnen hunting

stags,dnving chariots,playing reed pilX'S and wrestling.

C)ther itemS on display - 16th century CrOSSbOlws,a tiny 17th ccntury strong box With a COrnpliCated 10Cking system,an Art Nouveau inirrOr fromthe tum Ofthe centulγ ― al℃ interesting but say litle abOut Slo‐

venian histOry and few are labelled in EngliSh.Still,the muSCuin building(1885) itself is ilnpressivc. Check out the cei ng fresco in thc loyer fcattiring an allegoncal

Carniola suiTounded by inlportant Slovcnes frO■ l thC paSt and the statues of the Muses

and Fates relaxing on the stairway balistes.

The Nationd Museum is Open Tuesday tO

Sunday iom 10 am b 6 pm(to 8 pm on VViednesdav).AdnissiOn is 200ノ

100 SI′ r.

The gracefu1 0pera House on zup_

Nationd MuSCum)Ofthe CitiZen of Emona,

anё iё cva ulica tO thc north―

dating from the 4山 ccnmry.It was une=thcd

in 1892 as thc Provincial Thcatre,and Plays

ncarby in 1836 and probably loHncd part of a Romal necrOp01is.

in both Ccnnan and SIovcne wcrepe1lonned he“ .A■ cr WVn it was tnを 口lcd hc Ol"ra

Trg Repub!ike is the inain square in

House and is nOw hoinc tO the SIovenian

Center and contains the ugly Pariiarnent (1959)to the nOrth_cast festooned with revo‐ lutionary reliefs and, tO the south‐ west,

Cankar Hali(CankarJcv lDom),Center's nlain cultural and congress centre.

・Ilo the

SOuth beyond ErJavё cva cesta in Ferant Gardenな e■ e remdns Ofan eany Ch stian chuκ h poκ h and baptistety wim mosalcs iom the 4th century.

Na」 Ond Opera ald B」 let COmpalies.No doubt you'll hc`r soineOne singing scalesそ I,

you walk by. ■le National Ga‖

ery(Naodna Gdctta;

1896)at Cmkarievaces鯰 20 oftrs pOttats and landSCapes nrorn thc 17th to 19th ccntu―

ries, cOpies of rnedieval frescOes and wOnderful(〕 。thic statuary in its old south

wing.Although the suЦ ects Of the calier paintings are the usual fOppish nObles and

MuSeum Area

lenlon― lipped clergy,sOrne ofthe later works

LJubljana's three most impo■ ant museums arC SituatCd tO the north― wcst of Trg Republike.

Thc Nationai Museulm(NaodnilMiuze」

cast was opencd

)

are rc」 narkable

and prOvide a good introduc_

tion to Slovenian art.'Ilake a closc look atthe

WOrkS Of the impreSSiOniStS Jutt Subic and Riha・ d JakOpiё (eg BJ“ ′ s,″ s″ 。 ″り ,the `み har rJた 0″αあ 物 Й 滋

試 Muze」 Ska ulica l at thc westenl end of

pOintmist lvL GЮ

park― like Trg Nな odnih Hero」 ev has sections devotcd to histOry and natural histOry as wcll

S″

as inne coin and mincral c。 llecions(thc

ル′ ο , and S10Vcnia's most celebrated` ・

W。 lnal paintcr lvana Kobilca rS“ 〃″′ り ・hC brOnzes by F｀ ranc Berneker are truly .

I｀

拳筆 ・

蘭6 ヽ

PROMOT ON CENTRE LJUttAM

DAMIEN SiMONIS

STEVE FALLON

SЮ VENIAN TOuRIST 80ARD(CPTS)

A B C

D

A: France Maroltfolk group, Shoemaker Bridge,Liub!lana B:Detall of Schweiger House, on Sね ri trg,Llubliana

10:Apple se‖ er,central lTlarket, Llubllana D:01d Town and ttubllana Castle

PROMOT10N CENTRE LUUBLJANA

PROMOT10N CENTR∈

A B

LJUBし

JANA

PROMOT10N CENTRE LJUBL」 ANA

A:ShOemaker Bridge(Cevllarski Most),L,ubllana BI PreSernOV trg frOm pedestrian Copova uHca,Liubliana

C

C:Brass band,Mestni tr9,Liubllana

exceptiOnal and,aslong as you're here,have alookattheArtiDlecotoilets,all black inarble

and green glass.The galery's new wing tO the north at PuharJeVa uliCa 9 (Separate

Ttesday to Saturday from 10 ain to 7 p■ land Sunday ti11 l pm. Along with inak■ lg use of the sPOrt facil― ides tt the Tivo■ Recrettion Centre(see

Europラ an palntings■ om the liddle Agcsto the 20th ccntury and is used for tclmporそ ry

Activities latcr in ths chaptcr),you can climb to■ le top of Ro老 nik Hill(3941m)for wOndcril views Pfthe city.The 45-hcctare

exhibits.Eventu」 ly a glassed‐ in walkway wi■ lhk the two buildings and the origind

sOuthern slope alongヽ

CntranCe)haS a perinanCnt C01leCtiOn Of

Robba Fountin inay be moved helに froln Mestni trg.The N江 lond G」 lely is open l'uesday tO saturday from 10 ain to 6 pnl and

Sunday to l prn.Adnusslon is 30()/200 Srr 10r adults/seniOrs and chldκ n or 5(Ю /4(Ю

leё

na pot and cont`un‐

ing soine 800 animals representing 120 species,is Open every day,except Monday, from 9 anlto 7 pm in sununer,■ 11 4 pm in wintcr.Admission is 600/350 SIr.

The Mu“ um of Modern Histow(MuzeJ NOve」 se zgOdOvine)at CelovSka ces● 23

slr during special exhibits.

The Museum of Modern Art(Moderna cderila)sOuth_west ofthe Nadond Gauery at(こ 〕 ankarDeva

cesta 15 is housed in an ugly lnOdenl building that is like stepping into a c。 ld

Liubllana ZOo(Zivdski V■ ),on the hill's

shower aier w」 ung arOund the Othcr

muscums.The gdicry shows pat ofi“

per‐

■lanent c01lection of20th century Slovenian vhich helps put sornc of the socialist‐ art, 、

inspired work of sculptors like Jakob

justbeyOnd theTivoli Recrea」 on Cen"e has gone from being a temple to the Partisans to a nrst_class museuin tracing the history of Slovenia in the 20th century via lnultirnedia.

It's highly“ commended br a bettr under‐

standing of how Slovenes view thenlselves 額ld their nadon yesterday`md today.The muscuin is Opcn daily,cxcept Monday,彙 ol■ 10 an to 6 pm and adnussion costs 400/300

savingek intO anistic perspective. A large part of the building is given over to tempo‐ rary exbibitions tllat a lot of people would cOnsider`■ ln'rather than `selious'art.Tlle

SIT.

Museurn of Modern Art hosts the lntcrna‐ tiOnal Biennial of Graphic Arts in odd― nulnbered yearS. The FnuSCurrl keepS thC

Thesc twO attracive dismcts sOuth OfCcnter aC珂 ub」 ana'S01deSt Subuめ S and htte a

same hOurs asthe Nadond G」

sites.・ rhe

lery.

′ rhe interiOr Of the serbian (I)rthodox

church。 l Sts Cyril&Methodlus north of the Museurn of Modern Artis covered frorn ■oor to ceiling with colourful inoderll fres‐ coes and has a richly carved iconostasis

Krakovo&Trnovo nurnbcr of interesting buildings and historic

lKirakovo neighbourhood around

Krakovska ulica with its two‐

storey cottages

was Once called tihe `Montmartre of 巧 山 lma'bCCauSe Of」 1山 e lmisb living here.

If you w」

k」 ong BarJanska cesta,the

shOrt southern cxtension of Slovensika cesta,

separainglthe nave fronl the sanctuary.It is Open Tucsday tO Saturday fron1 3 to 6 pm.

you'11“ ¨ hthe Roman Wa‖ (Rimsh Zid)

Tivoli Park

pyramid is a Pleё nik addition and the young people holding onto the bricks in the wall

iom Emonatimes running dongiMiliC・ The

YOucm re¨ hthe city's ieafy playground via

with their inge■ ips aen'tbemg subieCtedtO

a SubWay'Om CalkarieVa CeSta・

sorlle cruel and unusual punisl■ ■ent― this is

Stralght

ahead,at the end of a inonurncntal prorne‐

nadc designed by Pleё nik (JakOpiё eV。 sprehaJaliRe),is the 17th ccntury■ vo‖

where inany novice mountdneers practice their spo■ .Within the Jakoplё Garden to the south― cast at MirJe 4 whcrc the

Cad:e(TivolsH Grad)which contans the internatiOna:Centre of Graphic Arts

impressionist panter once worked in his

(Mじ dnπ odni Grafiё ni Likovm Center)open

including household artefacts and the

sunllnerhouse,therc are more Roman ruins

ｒＣＣ 口 ｒ﹂＞ Ｚ ＞

′ 巧ublma― Lingsto See 97

くＺく﹁コｍ⊃﹁コ

98 Цublala― Things tO Sce コ em`uns of a sopllisticated headng systein.

iom 10 am to l pm and 4わ 6pm. Barjanska cesta ends tt a picturesquc

It'solЮ n

cand cdled Grada晏 峰ica,whch is a pleasant

Other Mu`贅 ,ums&Galeries 町 ubljana COn nS mmy Oぬ Cr interesung museums besidesthe ones rnentiOned above,

place for a sLoll on a w′ vni day.Spanning

Inost notably the ncw Siovenian Ethno¨ graphic Mul田 )u:m(Slovenski Etnografski

the canal to the cast fioin E■ lonska ulica is

Muze」 )at Metelkova ulica 2.At present i

the little Trnovo Brid90, designed by

offers only a hint of what's to cornel a selec_

Pleё nik

h 1932.Bi“ ;h trees actudly grow on the b dgc and thc rdlings ac topI℃ d with ive curious pyrannds.・ The lChurch of St John the Baptist,wheκ Francc PrcScЮ n metthe 10Ve Of S It Jutta P miC,iS On

tion of ouects amぉ sed by■ e19th century Slovenian inissionary Frederick lBIaraga,

the southeinl side.

turies; and a weli chosen disPlay of

Farther south at Karunova ulica 4 is the house where JoZc I)leё nik lived and worked ′ for allnost 40 years. ]oday it houses the

National Muscum's collection is inoved

巧 ub」 ana Architecmrd Mu∞ um's Pleenik

Tucsday O Sunday fЮ m 10密 n Ю 6pm)is

Coliection,1劉 l excelentinせ oductlon to this

」mOst asceuc」 ly religious inan,his inspira_

sun3to be a winncr Theお lbwing is a list of other muscums

tiOn and iS WOrk.It iS Orn'Ibettay md

in tL Liublma area■ tt mり mじ

Thursday from 10 arn to 2 pm only.Admis― sion cos餡 500/200 SIT.

Some―

Who p“ ∝ d alnongtL Chp"Wa lndians of 饉chigan;an invendve look at birth and “ e`rly chldhood in Slovenia acrOss the cen‐

S10Venian fOlk。 可eC“・But When mOre Ofthe

herc, the lEthnographic Museum (open

st you.

“ whic but not all― can be visited following the waldng tours and are noted on

ヽ 口］

3

¨ ¨ ¨ 一 一 ¨ ・

■ ソ● "●

Sank Pub&Ani降 Ca“

un"Orsity Of Llubllana

[悧晰 ぎ 識鶴wal PleOolk Pyrarnid

Jakopt Caに on TΠlovo erldOe

コ

Churdi d sIJohn thO Baptist LIu01iana AGhiOotu口 I Musoum pl“ ntk Cdlecu∞ ) KUD Fran● oPn“ i“

n

ヽ＼

//｀

、｀、

Krakovo& TFi10VO

thc Ljubljana,Central Ljubljana and К■akovo & 'I:rnovo rnaps.

・I'hcy can havc

Ylou can rent rowing boats on the ver Recre江 lond Cente

缶om me Liub」 anica 214906)江 Vclika

very convoluted and abbreviated opening

(●

tirnes so check with the TICI belore seting

Tmovo mid― May to Septmber■ oin 10 ain

out.

to 7 pin.

A"hit∝ turd Museum(Arhitektumi Muzej) Fuzine Castle,in the eastern subu:も of Studenec (bus lヾ o20 to Fuを ine) City G」 lcw(Mcstna G」 ∝ija)

M“ tni

trg 5

rcgOroiceva u■ ca 3 Jよ Opic G」 lery(Jakopi“ va Gale■ a) SIovcnska cesta 9 L le G」 leり (lMala Gale● a) slovenska cesta 35 Slovenim Film M“ cum(SIovcnski Fll■ skl Muzcj) I【 inoteka Mikloこ iCeva ccsta 28 (:〕

sIovenian Sch∞ l Museum(Slovenskiも olsH Muzej) Reё nikov trg i

sIOvenian Theate Muscum(SIovensh Gledaliζ

H

Muz● j) Mestni trg1 1 7 ehniζ

H MuzeJ

SIOVCnte) Bistra Casde,23km south― wcstof巧 ubljana⑩ us to Bistm pri vttnin)

Tob¨ co Museum(Tobaё

■ob配

The Zmttё ek Bdlooning Club(● 127 2534),south of the Botanical Gttden江 Iを 知ska cesta 350, has hailf― hourノone‐ hour ights ovcr the ciり for DM125/250. If you fancy a long but casy walk,you cOuld follow the ma・ ked Trdl of Rcincin―

Equma Ganew(Galcrija Equrna)

Tcchnical Muscum of Slovcnia(■

Coinarska ulica 20 in

Muκj) Ю Tobaё na)

branCe(POt SpOrmnOV),WiChrunS brSOme 34km」 ong where Germmb肛 )d wire once cornpletely enclosed Ljubuana during ゝ VⅡ .TOday it is especidly popular with /ヽ

jOggerS.The eお ieStメ aCeS tO“

h it frOm

“ ac me AMZS(Automoulc Associadon of

s10venia)hcadquaters at Dunttska cesta tory 128 no ofthc BeZigrad student dorn or from Trg Komandanta Stanetajust north―

west of the LPP central ofEce(sce Getung Around later in tis chapteつ 籠 CelovSka

cesta 160.You can dso join it"om tte south‐ western

edge of Tivoli Park near the

z00 0rthe nO■ hcm sidc of Zale Cemetry.

巧ubljmaCasino(● 302988),ncxtto the Austotel籠 ヽ4i鳳 oこ iё eva cesta 9,hぉ Amcn― can rOulette,black jack,poker and slot

`na ulica 5(bus No 6

ACT:VITIES

inachines.It's open daly frorn noon to 2 am

The Tivoli Recl℃ 江ion Centre(● 1315155), ′ at Ce10vζ ka cesta 25 in rivoli Pa」 rk, has

(3 aln on Friday and Saturday).

bowling allcys, tennis courts, an indoor swiin.1lng p。 。1,a nmess centrc,a r01le.

ORGANISED TOURS

skating nnk and a popular sauna called Zlati

Flrom June to Septcnlbc■ atwo― hour guided tour in English(700/5α )SIT adulsお eniors,

Klub with saunas,a stearn roorn,cold and wann splash pools and a small outside pool surrounded by high walls so you can sun― bathe a″ ″α′″′rhe21ati Klubis open daly Ю 10pm(to 8 pm from July to ,Om 10 an “

deparis dally at 5 pin fronl the town hall in Mestni trg.I)unng the rest of the year there are tours at ll anl on Sunday only. 。れαlr In sunllmer a bOat callcd the E“ に

.′

septeinber)and t0 1nidnight on Friday. VVorncn― only days`u.c all day'I'uesday and Fnday to 2 pm;Othen″ ise it's iniXed dayS

(men and Wolmen tOgether in the bufO. Entrance costs ll(Ⅸ )SIr(950 SIrunt■

lpm)

for adults and 500 SIr for children.It costs

StudenS and Children)SpOnSOred by the TIC

(雪 448 112 or mobile● 041-627857)o舒 iers excursionsonthettublmicaRivcrThesdリ

to Sunday at 5 and 7 pin froln the footbridge

just wcst of Ribji trg to Lv“ a,cast of Trnovo,and back for 500 SII Per person (children under 12 free).

300 SIr exta if you don't have your own towel.

The llirija outdoor pool opposite the

・ iv01l hOtcl at CelovSlka ccsta 3 is open in I｀

summeriom 10am b 7pm.

SPECIAL EVENTS The No l cvcnt on巧 ublana's socid cden‐ dais thc lntcrn江 lond Sulnmer Festiv」 of nlusic, theatre and dance hcld in vcnucs

Ｆ﹂Ｃ口Ｆ﹂＞Ｚ＞

1_jub」 ana― Activities 99

くＺくつヨ●⊃つＪ

1∝ )町 ub」 ala― Plκ eS tO Stay

tll■

oughout the city but principally at the

。utd。 。r swiinnung p。 。1, a ntness studi。

,

open― air theatre of the l【 riを anke on llrg

bOwling ale"tennis cOurts and a laundry

Fralcoske Revolucije.The tsiv」 ,now in

rooin and costs 860 to ll(Ю Srr per pel鰺 on.

its foull:h decade,begins in early July and

Bicycles arc available for rent,alld there are

nlns through August.

daily pennits(1300 Srr)for ishing in the

A festival of altemative and world inusic

caned Druga Godba(Other Music)takes place in the lK Йanke in June as docs the Photo Antiquc Falt Whcre old photolgraphs,

caineras and other equipment `re traded. There's aJazz F.estival attllc IC 老anke in late June. Vin。 巧 ub」 ana iS an intemadOnd Wine falr in early June for the trade and gcncral public di睦 .It tよ es pl¨ e atぬ e Li山 増ana

Fairgrounds(Gospodarsko Razstavibё

c)

north ofthe traln station atlDunaJSkacesta 10 and the opening is m′ rked with delivery of

wine frOm t“ VipavaVtteyto LJubljmavia the anCientツ ′ ″SttZ″ αgお rra′ α(Wine ttading ′ ″ rOutC).S。 lne reStaurantS,gο S′ ′

`andwincs baS serve special dishes and sclcctcd during thc farrThey are identi■ ed by grape_

shapcd wreaths nlade of wood shavings. Ц ubljana iS atitS mOSt Vibrantin July and August during thc so‐ called Surniner in the C)ldTlown seasonwhen there are three orfour cultural events a week in the city's historic squares and courtya・ ds All ae frec.The KUD SummcrFcs■ v」 takes placc inTrnovo

in August The lnternationd Biennial of Graphic Arts, at the Museunl of Modenl Arts, the lnternational(:lentre of(:〕 raphic Arts in Tivc)li and other venues,takes place through―

outthe sunlncr dunng odd― numbered years. II・

he 23rd isin 1999. Numerous church concens and strcct fai薦

征e held iroughout巧 ubjana in December during the build― up to C〕 hristinas and the

New Ye2.

PLACES TO STAY Camping

′ I｀

he only camping ground convcnicnt to

Sava.TheF are dso threc― dozcn cranped little bung」 ows with two roolns costing from 7∝ Ю SIT llle S″ ル″″蔵 camp siじ (● 627(Ю2)in Dragoこ aJna,17km no h― west of Цublana, is located between two small lakes;the big

draw here seems to be the nudist beach. Sinlednik,opcn frc)in May to nnd― October, charges 720 to l10()SIT per person.

Hosteis a Student Donnitories Four student dorimto 彙j dο りopcn cs(グ ″α」 “ their dools to foreign tavellers in suinmer and are cleal,cheap and f endly places in which to stay.A couplc are ncar Center but,

as you would ex"Ct,most are quite a way out.

The closcst onc,which is aF■ liatcd with Hostelling lnternttional(HI),isDJα ぶ たjDο ″ 7abο ″(● 321 067), Vidovdanska ulica 7, which can acconunodate up to 60 people.It

charges 2370 SIT for a singie roOm with breakfast and 2CXX)Srr per person for a bed in a double,triple or quad.If yOu dOn't have an HIcard,breよ fお tcosも 360 SI「.As usud, tone“ and showers ae on the corrid。 .but

all rooms have running w■ er.Though

there'sa`curiew'between 10 Pin and 6 ain, the security guard will let you in when you ring the bell..The TabOr is Open late June to August.It is a short walk fr01n thc bus and tran stations.

lhc Dl,α ζ た ,Dο ″ Pο 物 ″ 327 471 or `(奮 ● 327494)about l.5kin east of thc Old Tlown at Potoё nikova ulica 3 has 80 two― bedded rooms and is Open frOm nud― June to late July.Thc charge lhere is 2(XX)SIr for a

singlc and 3000 SIT for a double with shower Y10u call eat in thc student cafetena and there's a laundry rOOrn.Tlo reach it,take

町 ubljma is theル 燿 site(● 168 3913 or ●371382)on thc Sava “ R er tt Dunttska

bus No 5 fronl′ Ilavё aI]eva ulica or No 13

cesta 270,about 6kin north of the train and bus stationsIYlou can reach it on bus No 6 or 8. JeZica, whicll is oI)en all ycar, has an

Poljane stop.

from Kongtsnitrg and get oFatthe Comje A bit closer Ю town but sillin Polane is the D′ り αぶ ,Dο″ ルα″a Gα ″メ た ″り′ (● 133

101

1200/1530 SIr pcr person witlプ without an

a single with showcr and breakfast and 8930 SIT for a double. r(1'1612123;faⅨ 372 The ll― roonlLj`♭ ι

HI card.Rooms don't havc running watet

862),7kin no■ h of

but there are showers,tolletS and lVs on

Gamcljne(house No 32c),charges from

each ioOr.The

6o(x)sIT fOr singles and iom 8000 SIr for

ding B). rool:xs and chargcs

5177)at PolanskaCeSta 26-28(Bu■ It has 160■

lrce―bedded

ana Canka=iaiS Open mid― June to August,butlyou nlay be able to find a bed hcre on weekends at Othertimes ofthe year.1ヒ iOu can alsO reach here on bus Nos 5

doubles.The Lieber has a inerestaurant(sce Places o Eat).

Hoteis― budget

and 13.

onc Oft“ best dcds in Liubljana is the

jDο ″Bι ZJg´ α グ(● 342867)is た ThcDJαぶ

a Kadettcva plo"“

133 15‐ r00m S“P`rL′ B`′ ′ `ν `hotel(● 4049)on the noihem edgc “ ofTivoI Park江 Pod Gozdoin 12.There are no rooms with

28 in he Bettgrad

ct 2km notth of thc train and bus sta‐ ■Ons.It has doublely・ ぼiples with shower and tOilet for 3600/4500 SIr androoms w■ h onc tO tlu・ ee beds with shared fa)ilides for 1200 dist

s11｀

Цubtana in Srednjc

basins are 305o SI・ r,doubles 60(X)SI「 .・ I'he

nthtClub getS pretty nOiSy■

per person, None of the rates include

off,and thc hostel is opcn thloughout the night.The Beを igrad has 70 roolns available

people usudly Cnd up in巧 ubtana aSit'S the city's only large budget hotel close to Center

Om late June to late August but only about 20 for the rest ofthe yea」 L There's a laundry fl・

and the 01d Town.It's prety basc,but the pnce is nght:DM53″ 2 for singleダ doubles

in the Dijagkl Dom Kaln(Building C)江 Kadeljeva p10Rad 14 wichis open frOm 8

with buffet breakfast and shared shower and iE)M72/90 Ⅵith private shower. Stu― dents with cards gct a 20%discount.1lhe

anl dll nOon and 2 to 6 pm weekdays and 8 ain to 3 pm on Saturday.To get hcre froln s10venska cesta,takc bus No 6,8 or 21 and I｀

the Weekend・

たhotl(● 1331306; The 124-room Pα ′ fax 133 0546)at Tabor 9 is wheκ most

breakfast.An HI cad gcts you about 10%

get Off atthc Mcrcator′

vatebaths,butbright andalry singles With

p

staff are very helpful and friendly.

If yOu'“ desperate,the■ ッοJj(● 133

glavska stop.

6131:ねx302671),a bmler hostel br wOrkers at Tivolska cesta 30, has 31 tiny

Private Roolmls&Apaninents The′ rlc has about 40 pnvate roonls on its

list,butjust a handful ae in Ccntr.Most of the Others would requirc a bus tl■ p up to Bcを igrad.Pnccs rangc from 250C)SIT lor singles and 4000 SIr for doubles.It also has four of eight apartincnts and two studios― which are central― for one to four people

double rooins with showers that coSt 5500ノ 7720

′

・ hc SIT for singles/doubles. 「

Ilivoli faccs the park butis on the corner of

two very busy and noisy strccts.

Hote:s―

inid・

range

starting at 7500 SIr. Recep」 on is at the

j′ Jα hotel(● 1593337;fax 1593048)江 Trg Prekoinorskih Bngad 4,o∬

Meredita agency(● 131 1102;fax 131

ClelovSka cesta,is neither here nor there―

1096)江 KOt

The 128-rOOm″

in

location or aesthetics.It's a far w」 k from

kOva ulica 5.

([〕

Pensions&Guesthouses

enter and the staions and although this

ti″ o―

lhc closcst thmg to a guCSthOuSe in助 ub― 増anapЮ peristhνrα たpcnsion(● 223412;

storey hotel was renovated not so long

ago thcre is arcady a sad feeling Of neglect. It docs back on t。 1)ebeli Hin and the siska

ationな ea however. singles range from 6370 to 8650 SI'r,

fax 301 197), west of′ rrg Francoske

district's ieafy recκ

Revolucije ttRinskaccsta4,wi血 30 Юoms. ′ ″α P′ It's decent enough`uld the Cο s′ ι rrα た dOwnstalrs has ret鳩 lonably priced and “ Slovenian sctinenus,buttherooms gOnerous

dOubles from 8830 to ll,830 SI′ r. The 19o― r00m m“ ガsr hotel(● 1322343;

:

i′

are snlall and quite cxpensive-6390 SIT lor

fax 319 291)at Ddmatinova ulica 15,a meκ 2α)rn■oln PreSernov trg,is very centrd,but

Ｆ Ｌ ⊂ 口 ｒ ﹂＞ ２ ＞

Liubljana― Places to Stり

くＺく﹁Ｊ口⊃﹁コ

102巧 ubljana― Π∝esto tllis six‐

E鑢

storcy place has a lot of drawbacks

and despcrately nceds to be rcnovated.

Rooms ae very sm」 1,the hotel drab and noisy and the service substandard.Ifyou do

and its sdad bar are excellcntそ md a wclcoine

changc fronl an Ovcrdose ofl♭

aた .Thc Only ““ is hatthe problem wi this four‐ stOty hod mЮ nls facingMikloSiё evacestacan be noisy.

stay het,requcst a room lootng sOu wなd tO the Old Town and Casde Hill.Rates a・ e

Parking is avallable.

7740 SIT for a single and ll,350 SI「 for a dOuble,hcluding a generous breakfぉ t bumet,

LJublma is the renovated A■

Nouveau C″ ″′″ο″′υ″jο ″ (● 1254133;fax 217

910),MimoSiё eva cesta l,which wぉ

HOu3-tOp md

in 1905.Butbcwa・

Most of tbe Ⅸ Ы18■ 3 "_lvcdα hOtels IⅢ bat』 ■唸 h,you・ p口 mmmぬ plo億 :mLIh。 田dc,bl● T、 d士 tdid uc_ “ “ “ “ Phones.minib,廊 in the Rx,■ 廊e". L● ethickofmn,is t凛 ,171‐ ■ЮmS′ ο ∫ ″″ hotel(● 1"11(X;fax 217" 'α 1“ `:惚 )● SIovenska α焙L34,bu“ 0,lo go 3

mmfacngll耐

cas“

ml恥

`EICPhaar heS a h亙 0,3。 ng back m(,κ 価m four centunes_i● s mid uat htt w3, ¨ sPOt Wh● ● ●ュ 口 o嵯 H嶋 rgempeD,1,ymA● “ cmungtamed "hydem眸 `“ to' enna_」 10ugh uЮ 。 on i"way 霧nt hotel dates● onl ths∝ n",.■ tr aκ 「 ven c● egOnesofsingle,∞ m8鮨 嘔 ェ a“mimmum ofabout 12.150 Srr and himng l● 850 SIT,with doubl“ nom 172“ )0 22,050 SIT■ ■eSlonhag afboit“ ″ fo= nonSnloken. and PoPular SIovenittn “ and ltali劉 ■佗stauttn".

ne`″ hou● 133215,極 321"4)

工V"niよ oVa

・Ithc hotel with the rnOst character in

u」 腱 l,Ю m卜 w`越 oF● clmd‐

mak PiVOVama UmOn(U田 。■ BtWay). has畦 n busy over● le l::st 3,tial yenis moumo,ho● ng tom a huge old no:し

n口 bOti ht。 3」 aS‐ and‐ mrЮ r toWer. “ ■ he95 new ioon13● at誠 24,3α ソ 31.5(Ю SIT dOuble b瞑 e 61 o"Ю )msar 'Ora8inJυ muCh ChQ"r― ¨ m1305α 15 750 Srr姉 ,single′ doubL.■bo lκ v is wi」」n easy w譴 8dsm∝ 。fthesⅢ ons md m"

e,this 187‐

built

room hotelhas

roorns of diffierent categOries in an old wing

andin a bOnng neW one flて ,in the late 1960s. Singles witll b●cakfast and shower range

from 14,1∝)016,8(X)SIT,with doubles between 19,60Ю and 22,3(X)SIT.Thc hotel has a cellar md a lovcly gaden staurant, alld guests getto ul貿 )the swinuning p001 and itness centre(open from 3to 10 pm)and ca parkofme″ 0′ ″αゾ ″″(奮 1255051;fax 125 0323)next doo■ ・ his 133‐ roorn hotel looks I｀

and feels like Holiday lnns iOm Cleveland,

Ohio,Ю Kuda Lumpur and chな gcs from 19,400 SIr fOr a single ald 26,9(Ю SIr fora doublc. lhe P'rOtOCOI Service of the lRepublic of

slovenia Owns several rnagnincent proper_ ties available fOr hire in Slovenia,including

И″ Pοグ ο2シ 蔵On Veё napotin Roこ na Dolina “ With apatmentS fOr― Wat 3or it-77,2(Ю SI・ r.For infonnation,cOnmct the ProtocOl Service(● 061‐ 221133;fax 064‐ 221551) at Brdo Castle in Predoslje.

PLACES TO EAT Restaurant3 SiOVenian An old standbv_it's been arOund since 1776-with natiOnd dishes is Sι s″ cα at S10Venska ccsta 40. It's a very popular place、 ″idl local peoplc and serves up plates Of goVeji gOlaを (beCf goulash)andね t

Krattska sausage with cabbage.IMain

eve。 ●ing in center

COurSes are in the 600 to 12(X)SIT range,

Hbi3[3-luXury IЪ o62‐ro(mA“ ′ り1を :〈 ● :02613,;fax 301

for 12(Ю

181)"Mikloζ 『 ioeVa CeS● 9 iS amOn3

LJub」 ana'3 mo盛 tinCtly`1■

m(燿 肛:hotels wn dis

。 denl'pnces― fio■ 16,00Srrfor

a Sin81e and fion1 25,480 Sn￢ br a double.

η℃ Ausuotl'spneyS″ α″晟,″

`?●

3●u口it

salads from 250 SIT and there's a set iTlenu SI′ r..The back cOur● ′ ard iS DICaSant

but getS a bit Stutt in Summrヽ

cstica is

frorn open Monday to Saturday to ll prn.

The κ ονあ αr at 10′

Ciril―

Metodov trg 14

0ppOSite the Cathedralis arenovated gο sr,′ ″α

With reasOnably priced Slovenian rncals. However,a better chOicc than this wOuld bЮ

the ttν dα ガ

″″ α 江 Tavё arJeva

ulica 4.It

I′

♭ヶα″ユ′Dッ ο″(●

216555)at Dvomi

`ν “ Sunday,from 8 aln to is Open dally,except

trg l “ south― east of ICongresni trg is both an

10 Pnl.

upmarket restaurant serving decent interna―

A welcorne arnval in the()ld 'Ibwn is

α(● 1253094)at Gomji trg 28.The 勒″ぇ

■ond fare and a piZZena(SeC Italian).It

OpenS ddly,eXCe,Sunday,frOm n00n till

`Pantry'couldn't be FnOrC niCely dCCOrated

nlldnight.

with its rough― hewn tablcs and chairs, w。 。den■ 。。rs,frescoed cenings and nOstal―

MikloSiё eva cesta 28 is an attractively deco―

1ィ

ο iィ ο″′

` Opposite the Austrotel at

rated inodenl restaurant popular with olEce

gic bits and pieces.But there 2re problerns: the menu is handwritten,ailmost indecipher―

wOrkers and staff from Kompas and the US

Embassy neaby■ has血ree‐ course daly set

able and in SIovene only;the food is ordlllary

and very expensive(staners 900to 1200SI「 ■lain cOurses 12(X)to1 28(X)SI「 ―expect to pay about 4300 SI′ per person for two cOurses and a drink):and thc restaurant is understaffed.SpttZa iS OIχ n dally,CXCept

lunches for less than lo(x)slr.

sunday,frOni nOOn to l.30 anl.

peppers,tornatoes and eggplant cooked into a pur6C)aS Well aS StarteS like pl℃ branaC

,

I｀

Arguably the most stylish restaurant in

Pο ′ Rο Jた ο (● 213446)江 Cesta na “ Siav― sけ le r its sou Rottnik 18`″is famousお gnllS like pliCSkaViCa(Spry ineat patdeS;

900 SIT)SerVCd With ttVar(rOaSじ d red

wittoutthe nch aunt orunclc in tow,enter at your own pcril as this placc is very expen‐

(OniOnS and bCalS COOkCd in an CarthenWa・ e pot;500 SIT)andも alnpinJOni naZaru(gnlled mushrOoms;850 SIr);even a food Юvicwer た77′η wihtheAセ ′】 ″ `scouldn't getenough “ open daily ofthis place.It's from noon ti11 11

sive.It's open weekdays only from noon to

pm.The Dッ αFα zα ″α(● 316480)in a cno‐

均ubjana is■ e,π κ滋 ィ′ッ〃ra″ (● 216 810),帥 A■ NOuveaujewelrunbytheGrmd

HOtel uniOn at NazOrJeva ulica 2.But

ll prn.

A couple of gostilne that are a bit out of the way but getrave reviews from both local

and breign reSidentS Of ttubliana dike ae P′ Jル σ (● 221951)at Velka Colnarよ a “ “ 40()m south‐ cast ofI〕 ipprova ulica 17,abOut ulica and the Gradaζ ёica cand(open daly n00n t。 1l pin),征ld Pr,Gο ヴa″ c“ (● 123 west 1111)at Trを 基ka ces● 330,5km sou血 ‐

Ofcentcr Thelatteris open Sunday toFnday ioln noon to 10 pm.

i♭

vated gOstilna at Dunttska ceSta 61 specialises in gaine and ish dishes.The `TwO Pheasants'is open Mondayto Saturday 1l pm and on Sunday forlunch fiom noon

t。

b5pm.

・ he restaurant at the L′ I｀

(●

1612123),hScdnjeGmne」

`わ `″

pension

7km north

“ Кstau― Of巧 ublana,is a Mdson de Qual“ rant and comes highly recommendcd.Its specialities include dishes based onを ganci,

groats made from buckwhe激 .It is open Monday to Saturday frolll noon to 10 plTl.

cOntinental TheRο νを(● 212839)nextto `ο trg 2 is a reladvely the Юwn h」 1江 Mestni cxpensive― 田ound 350 SI「 lor soups and sdads,15α )SIT for main courscs― restau‐ rant that caters inostly to foreign tounsts: you'1l be lucky to get ase江 ,especidly on the

ltamanryouhankcrafterrealltdiancuisinc, e upm″ ketArrJ reS― you should head fOr taurant(● 17011()0)in the Slon hotel o■ in a pinch,the Fiο

′

rr“ 2α r

at Eipprova ulica 2 in

TlmOV。 (Open daly,eXCept Saturday,t011

outside terrace in the wanncr nlonths.Some of the dishes like the rOaSt kid (peё en

pm).OtherWiSe, `Italian'uSually ineanS

k。 1lё ek;

Thcre's an ongoing argument who hasthe プ。∬ TrubariCVa CeSta at best pizZa:М α ′ο′ Preё na ulica 7(enter from Mala ulica;open

1950 SIT)are unusual and quite

tasty:service is inulilingual but sornewhat cavalier.It's open dally,except Sunday,from ll anl ti11 lnidnight. Expcct to pay about 8000 Srr foratwo― COurse ineal for tヽ ″O With a bottle of wine.

pizZa Or a bit Of paSta in巧

t。

ublima・

1l p■ l Monday to Saturday, 10 pm on

sunday)。 rI′ b″ αれま,Dッ οr at Dvomitrg l “ nOrth of Breg.Actually my votc goes to the

ｒ﹂Ｃ口ｒ﹂＞Ｚ＞

巧ubljana― Pl∝ esto E誠 103

104:Ljubtana― Places to Eat newer Fο ε ′s,ncxtto the Equma Gdlery ““ and Glej Theaκ at Grcgoで iё eva uica 3,

cesta 20). Maln courscs like hui guo rou

which is oIX'n dally from noon tilllnidnight.

bean Curd)and bCCfWith bamboo shooも and blaCk mushrooms at the `(3olden iPcacock' S曖 ■■ about 900 SIr,soups ioin 3(Ю SI■

Snlal14argc pizzasherecost650/850SIrand the sdad bar iom 390 SIT. Theル ag″ ′″砕 ,at TrubarDeva ces● 52 and close to the Park hotel,has mOre pasta diSheS(abOut 1000 SIT)than piZZa and iS an 。ld favounte(though the decor suggests the oWner inight originally have had a Mexican

(tWiCC‐ C00kCd

pOrk),mapo doufu(SpiCy

Another place close by with scrlously over― the― top decorations and slightly lower pnces iS S力 ′ ″g力 α:at

PolJanska cesta 14.]B)oth Zlad

Pav and Shangha a・ c open ddly彙

01■

1l or

ll.30 ain to ll prn.

or Spanish restaurmt in mind).ご ′ ri″ .iust

down thc hill■ om the Spageterija On

Fish】 For aquick and very tasty lunch,try the

ZnainenJSka u

f

ca,has so‐ so pizza but an

excellent salad ba口 「 where

you pay by the

weight.

ed squid(250 SIT)or whitebalt(370 SIr) basement sealood bar below the

at R」 夕 ca,a

Pleё nik Colonnade in Pogarё

A central place serving uncxceptional pizzぉ (7(Ю to 900 SIT)帥 d with a rather sad

sdadbar(400 SIT)is P,“

ねRο ″

at Stai

ar」

ev trg.C)ther

ish dishes go for 600 to 950 SI・ r. Zια′ α Rめ たα,aSm」 l pub‐ reStmrantatCankarieV0 nあ rette5,seⅣ essimple ish dishes atlunch.

trg 6.It is open every day `″ fronl ll `ο anlto l anl.Asis itting in acity whose nal口le sOunds

Itis open iom 8 am to 10 pm weekdays,to

almost like `beloved'in Slovene,oppositc the Romeo is a bar/ca“ c」 led J“ ′ ′′

Sunday.A′ 晨 ηr,at Trnovski pristan 4 in

.

Spanish&Mexican Casα グ 3158),the newは d

α(● 134

Pa′ in town at `J Celovζ kacesta

54a,is a Spmish(and maybc a little Cuban ― the`Papa'К fcrs to Emcst Hemingwり

)

restaurant decorated in a hOtchpOtch of Styles: Spanish here, French there and

African sornewhere over there.SornehOw it all wOrks and wen heeled均 ub増 帥 ёani Cm't seenl to get enough of the place.C)n the lst Πoor is the A″ :`′ι εα″βα″and in the cellar the C′ ιa C′′b(scc Entertanmcnt).Thc res‐

taurantis open daily frorn noon to l anl.

「 ル

″DOれ

F`′ ι ′

1343862),south―

cast of iKrekOV trg at`(● StreliSka ulica 22, is LJub」 ana'siぉ t_and Only_tapas ba(300 to 800 SIT).It's open daily froni noon tlll `sο

midnight. ・ here's Mexican food avallable at the E′ グ ο″ αグο,behnd Nazorieva ulica 6,week― dayS ioin ll a:nto 5 pm. I・

Chinese lf yOu're looking for a fix Of 〕 hinese foOd, the location of the Sic力 α″ “ below St Florian's Chuch at GornJitrg 23 is (こ

wonderful, but the f00d is nluch rnOre authentiC at the Z′ α Pα ν(1● 171 0701), r′

Zanikova ulica 3(enter frOm Poljanska

3 pnl on Saturday and■

01n7anto 3 pm on

T'rnovo,is a sinular place and open dally, except lbesday,until 10 pm. The 02`“ α κ′ (● 214715)near the Opera tt Zupanё iё`′ eva u ca 4(enter from TOmも iё eVa uliCa)iS a moК upmarket pl∝ e

for ish,open daly■ onl noon dll 10 pnl.

Caf6s The coffec house rた′ν α′ ″α,is nowhel℃ ne`r aS nluch a pai ofthe social fabnc and dally ЮutinC m ttub」 ma aS itiS in,say,Budapest

or Vienna but One or two rnay be worth a visit.Always look lor the BttcafR brand‐ naine on display― it's thc best quality cOffee avalable.

The renOvated caf6 at the Cぉ ′′ :グ ,ぼ ο た′ /″ 」 こ ο″,Open frOrn 9 am to 10 p■ l andt()2 arn on Frlday and Saturday,was Once r力 to rub shoulders with the rnovers and `venue shakers of LJubljma lt still attracts an interesting assortment Of characters. For cotticc and cakcs yOu might alsO try the LunCated Eν Л ο Pa caf6 at Gosposvetska cesta 2 on the cOrner of Slovenska cesta or the S′ ο ″Ca16 in the S10n hOtel・

:Be■ er Still(at

ζ ιbο ″d″ 蔵 71″ αsα Ca“ on the top(12th)noOr ofぬ e AH Deco leaSt fOr the VieWS)iS theハ

Skvscraper building On the corner of

Slovenska ccsta and StefanOva ulica. ′ rhis

for around 350 SI「 .It's open weekdays from 7 anlto 4 pnl and ti1 2 pm on Saturday.

WaS巧 ub」 ala'S a■ er

talleSt building br deCadeS it was builtin 1933 and,though it's in ke it could bc

pretty sad shapc,it sti11looks

part Ofa sct fOr a lling Kong ilin.The views

Snacks&Fast Food

_Ofthe 01d Town,LJublala Castle,■

Thcre arc b“ ´

V01i

Pak,the Liublma M"sh to the south md thc glass― and‐ stee1 72mヽ Vlond

Trade Cen=c tO the nOnh― are the best in town and the caf6 is open dally fronl 10 ain dll ll pm.

幼Jた 。ッ乃r“ al“ ,InOrc Of a caf6 than The P″ ビ a rcsmurant(thOugh it dOeS a Set lunCh 10r 820 sIT)in the lく をanke on Trg Francoske Revolucije,is a gre■ meeting pl¨ e,CSpe‐ cially for a quiet r´

ι ′ ιa′ ´′ .

There's only one real teahouse in town,

a■ Stttitrg l,SerVing any number ご″″α魔 ぶ it.The`China Housc'is opcn weekdaysfrom

■'rnov()is

scⅣ es cheap and cheermllBalkan gnlls like

ёevapё iё i(600 SI・ r),plieskaViCa(540S11) and k10basa and is open 24 hours. The bestsandwiches in town are aVailable

S′ α なた in the 01d TOWn tt Stanぱ g9, whcre every bitofw」 lspace is covel℃ d with

。ld Slovenian ilnl posters,photos ctc.It's

9 am t0 1l pnl and On saturday to 3 pin. A′ :,たαcaf6

the shOpping ma1 0n Trg AJdovVina.It

at Nο

of grecn and bl¨ k teasjust me way you like

・I'he

s`α ″ as at scvcra110caionsin `た 巧 ubltta br a quiCk and filling lunCh Or snack,and one ofthe bestis the one nextto S10VentaturiSt On Pra:`akoVa uICa・ CheeSe, incat Or apple bureks go for 250 SI・ r.If you walt something moЮ substantid,head lor r 5,which faCeS Slovenska ccsta frorn S“ ￨′ ι

at Eipprova ulica 19 in

oI℃ n d

ly from 9 or 10 ain 0 1 an.

If yOu″ sr have wesに m‐ style fお t bod, “ obnge.DaJツ 2“ ″ hぉ 帥 Ljubtana cm

said to have the best ice creanl in

the city

Oudet at cankarJeva cesta 2 on the“corner of

Service RestaurantS a Ca'eterias One of the cheapest pla)es for a med in Liub」 ana is attheM爾 れ self‐ service ts● u‐ rant in the bぉ ement Of me Emona Maxl‐ maket shOpping acade on Trg Republke. sei「

Main dishes are betWeen 250 and 450 SIT, and theRD a“ )set inenus from 750 SIr.It's

s10venska cesta(open Monday to′ rhursday ■Om 9 am t0 1l pm,tO midnight on Friday

and saturday and frolm 4 to 10 pm on Sunday).McDο α″む is up■ e stairs at

“ open Monday to S江 ‐ こOpOva ulica 14.Itis urday frc)m9anl t。 1l pm and on Sunday from 10 anl.The best thing that can be sald

Open frOn1 9 am to 6 prn and on Sattlrday tll

about this place is that itlooks dircctly at the

3pm.IBut don't exPCCt COrdon bleu food at

wOnderful decOratiOns of the tt Nouveau

。l cafete a stur, Dα ″飩Cank"eva A similar place is D″ ‐

those prices;it,s red sch。

city savings Bank building(1904)opposite

江No3. 'む The MciDο ″α″ oulet“ the trdn st誠 lon

cesta 4.The"are set menus(pay the casmer arst),w ch yOu ctt st田 lding up,`md a sit‐ down restaurant in the back with regular table service,Mains with inem cOStfrom 450

〃 ″,Slovenska cesta 28(ol"n weckdays

am t09 pm,stturday fЮ m 7 arn o 4 Pm and

and Sunday).

g′ α ν,a self‐ sunday frOm 9 am to 4 pm,7レ」 service restaurant in the cOurtyard at MikloSiё eva cesta 12, is open Monday to

llle large

Thursday,oln ll ain to 8 Pm〔 md F day to sunday frOm ll am to 4 pnl. Thebest"lisewi∝ resttШ mtinLJub」 an■ according to cognoscenti,is Str'′ :`(ο らVery

the ground■ oor of the Seininary`′on

Dm iso"n WeckdayS nrOm 6 S「 md D可 ‐

is Open dally,om 7am

Ю 2am.A loc」

version of fast food is avdlable“ R:ο 月lα ″ lα

iom 8amto10p■ 1,fronl

10 am on Saturday

Food Market8 a Se:foCatOring た ′r in Vodnikov trg, ο′ グοοr P"α ′ “ produce,is open Monday to selling mOstly S■ urday“om 6 an o 5 or6 pm insuinmer ο″″arた on and Ю 4 pm in wintr.The t″ ′ο

below Trg AjdOv"ina.Hcttty m■ n courscs

arieV tg― g00d fOr meatS,■ Sh,dary Pogなё prOducts etc_is Open weekdays from 6 am

go for450to 750 SIT,roast chcken ald riё

to 4 pm and on Saturdayto 2 pm.

m“ ha`HiddenComer'inぬ eshopphgarcde ct

ｒ﹂Ｃ ● Ｆ﹂＞ Ｚ ＞

LJubliana― Pl¨esto E■ 105

く Ｚ く ﹁凛 ｍ ⊃ つコ

106 Liubuana― Ente■ anincnt The s“ ￨′

η,α ″ たιr in the basernent Of the

Emona Mは`′imarbtshopping acade on Trg

lα

Republike has abOut the largest selection in

tOWn.ItiS Open Weekdays from 9 arn 0 8 pm and on Saturday f● om

8am■ o3pm.

Gay&L03blan VenueS

Fancy delicatessens where yOu can stOck

Цubljana may nOt be the gayest city in

up on prSut,cheese andOtherpicnic farc have

sprungup aoundLiublimalibmushooms attcr rain.Some of the bcst alc:3,た

next door to the K4 at Kcrsnikova ulica 6. Ctめ αα らlχ low● eC`雰 ′ ′αPα Estalmnt “ cesta 54a has `力 at Clelov6ka Latino and salsa music ald olЮ ns daily"om 3 Pm to 2 ain.

centr」 Eurol)e,but thc“.a・ e a fcw dccent

B“ ″た,

こopova ulica 5(open weckdり sfrom 8 am Ю 7pm,till l pm Saturday);D`′ 」 滋たsα

options.IFor gcneralinfornlatiOn and advice,

kdays,till

ring Roza lKlub(● 1304740),the gay branch of the Student C'ultural(1,entre (も tudentski Kulturni Center;ζ KUC)at

l pm Samrday);and B“ ヴα,Kongresnitrg ll

Kersnikova ulica 4 or the(G7ヽ :Llon hotline

,

Kongresnitrg 8(7 anto8Pm w∝

(7.30anb7pmw∝

kdays,dll l pmSaturday)

ENTERTAINMENT 巧ub」 anaenjoySaVCrynChCulШ rdandS∝ i」 lit forits size sO a,k the■ IC fOrits monthly

program of events in English r"%ι

″ゎ 'れ

″αりaS Well aS any nyersit:night have Li“ ″ α

C:nema films,headお r 10Wing CinemaS:慟 C κο ″

any ofthe lol‐ 江

1324089;daily between 7 to 10 prn).

A popular spot for both gays and lesbians alike on Sunday nightisthe」 Rο zα 丞 らat tlle κ′ιJ(￨イ .11lc nlusic takes nO risks,but “ the “ iS liVely and friendly.It'S Open frOFn CrOWd 10 pm to 4 ain and costs 8(Ю SIT (600 Srr br StudentS). `′

In Mctclkova, lLjubuana's versiOn of

for various theaties and concen halis.

For irst‐ run

(●

CankariCVa

ChnStiania in COpenhagcn,betwecn Mctel― kova ulica and Maistrova ulica, there's a cが6‐ pubお rgり s caled c′ bηタ ルリ .IrS in thC Sm」 i bluC building b the “ lCft(eaSt)aS

““ ccsta l:the υ″ Jο″at N″ ;o eva ulica 2:or the S,ユa neathe llirija hOtel■ Trg Pck― OmOrskih B gad 3. '「 hey generally have

yOu enter thc squat. 1｀ iffany is(opcn daily Sunday to・ hursday fron1 9 pm tili ntidnight

three screenings a day. The」 ′ ,,Pas cinerna,Miklo6iё eva cesta 38,shows `ο art and classic films as docs the

VVednesday nightis video night and fOr gays

KJ″ ο″滋7江

No 28 of the samc steet,with scκ enhgs■ 6,8 and 10 pm.Cinema tickeも

generally cost 300 to 500 SI・ r,and discounts

are uSually available on Monday.

DiSC03&ClubS 'I｀

he rnost ipopular cOnventional discos are

b, bchind NaZOrJeva ulica 6 and

lο ″ E′ グ α′

Open daily to atleast 2 anl(coverchargc 500

SIT On｀ い4ednesday,Fnday and Saturday) and κ′b(c'ι ′ :′″ ar next to the・ unst hotel at “ Dalinainova ulica 15. ・ he student X7“ b」「 ζ イ Iヽ

I｀

at Iく ersnikova

ulica

4 has a discO On somc nights(Sunday is fOr

「

Or l anland on F'riday and SalLirday to 4 anl. only;:Illursday nightis reserved lorleslbians.

■lcP″ 1′ag“ 滋 め hЖ agり md lesbim ni♪ t on F day c」 lcd`Docs Your Momma “

KnOW?'from■ Opm to4 am.■

is nextto the

landm`rlk O,ィ οBα r at(〕 raboliё eva ulica l, which begins a shOrt distance north_west of Metelkova.Entty costs 500 SI・ R ■1le Cセ 1″ 2 Gα ′ ι″ ヴαat the City Ganc7,

M∝ mitrg 5(o"n10mltil

dniま り ,a雌 ∝む a gay crowd as doesthc Z′ αだ」 【IJ“ b sauna in Tivoli Park.If you pκ おr b mectf cnds`″ j″ ′た加 α ,the w」 kways behind the Tiv011

Recreation Centre and Modern IIistOry

Muscum in the pa・ k as far as the II」 a Tivoll Sport centrc are notoriously cruisy aftcr dark

as are the ca p"ks just in"Ont of the rec―

gayS and leSbianS).TW0 0ther popular

rcatlon centre and tO the cast acrOss thc train

VCnueS br ttublana'S yOung bloods ac the

tracks along・ I'ivOlska cesta.T'h`e path a10ng

らル 「′″力α′ ′ α″nextto the Zlati Klub sauna the Sava River near the Gostilna Zagar in “ mc Tivoli Rec“ 五ion Centrc in'nvoli Park (GametSka uliCa l)in Crnuё e(bus No 6)is ″らνι (CeloVSka cesta 25)and the κ′ ′ο ο′ a popular rneeting place in wanner wcathe■ “

iκ

l′

lρ

Muiticuitural Centles ｀ (イ in the basement Of the ■he κJ“ b 」 Smdcntska Organiz¨ ija Univerze巧 ubtaru

(SOU:Studcnt Orgalisaion ofthe Univer‐ sity Of勁 ub」 ana;● 1337219)building at Kersnikova uliCa 4 is a very popular venue featuring both canncd and live rnusic nightly

― from hiphop,rap and teChnO tO¨ id iaZZ and folk.Ask for its■ lonthly progrant and inake yOur chOices.It's Open from 10 to 2 or

4 ain and admissiOn iS 500 SIT(400 SIr for studcnts)exccpt oniFnday and Sunday night when it costs 800/6α )SIT resIЮ Cively.

The κυD Fra″ ι

`P″

髭初

(奮

332288),

a`nOn― institudonal culture and arts society' at KarunOva ulica 14 in Trnovo,stages con― certs of all kinds and is the beadqua■ ers of the Ana Monro ・ heatre, the only strcet theatre in S10venia.KUD」 so has a gre江 I｀

high_tech pubК af6 0pen ddly from 3 to 10 prn wherc you can incct people. ′ c Gα ′ ヴα(● 216 540 or● 121 The Sκ こ `″

3142),runby the studentcultural association

江 Stan trg 21,has inお rmatOn,music per‐ fOrlnances and an exhibidons,especialy by

the Neue s10wenische Kunst(NSK)multi‐ rnedia grOup and the IIRや VIN artists' cooperative. For a truly altrnativc scene,head for the π′を ,り twO music clubs at Metelkova― C力αれ′ α _with an sOrts of music αDッ 。″ and Gα ′ “ as well as perfOrmanCe FrtS and theate.

gЫ y ∝cidmd ttu“ Ons(eg Sc物 磁 α″,A′ j“ ′ α″′and Fα ″j″ Aル ″)at hOme レ W,″ ″ ″ ″ C′ ヶ 7■ ′ α′ md abroad m recent years.■ le “ ぽ々 ら α(Mesto GledttRc助 ub」 ansb; “ ● 1258222)is at Copova ulca 14. "″ α′ ″ (● 216679),Gregoに ― The c′ り 1■ ′ ― iё eva ulica 3,isLiublana's brcmostex" menta the■ e with threc csident or af■

Vilhajeva ulica ll has s● ged some

li‐

ated companles, including the lBctontanc dance andGrapefnlit acing troupes.・ rhey're o■ en on tour and the thcat.e is closcd in July

and August; in othcr months, your best chalcc to scc a perfonnance is on Thursday orFriday night.・ rhe box ofice is open week―

daysftOm 10 anlto 2 pm and 5 to 7 pm and on Saturday from 10 ain to l pm.

″αP“ The I:′ bヶ α

′τ力

′P′ `α `“`(Lutkovno Gleddtte“Liubljma;● 314966)perbrins atthe st Jarnes Theatre at Krekov Lg 2 south of Vodnikov trg.

CiassicailMusic,Opera&Dance 巧 ubljma iS hOmC tO帥 0 0rC“ StraS:th Slovenian Philharinonic and the Symphony

OКhestra of RTV Slovenija.COnce■ s Te held in various loc江 1。 ns al over tOwn,but 血e rnan venue― with up to 7(Ю cultur」 ,on Trg eventt a ycar― is Gα れたα′ 7`ν Dο ″ Republke.It hお twO largc audiЮ riurns(the

Galus H」 l has pertct acoustics)なld a nunlber of smaller ones. The ticket officc (奮

222815)in the bascment of the neaby

EEnona Maxllnarkctshopping′ ピcade is open

Theatre

Liubl帥 a has a h」 doκ n theates― not

weekdays ioln 10 aln to 2 pin and 4.30 to 8

ιルαたr(● 216390), ε《′ atthc Grand Hotcl Union― so thcrc should

pnl,Saturday from 10 ain to l pm and an hOur bclore pcrfonnances.Also check for

be sornething for cvcryone. Slovcnian

concerts at thc beautiful F」

f―

including the new

theate is usually quit visu」

with a lot of

Jみ

フリ ο りα at α′

“ Kongκ sni trg 10.Tickets run anywhere

mixed media so you don't always have to

bctwcen 300 and 20(X)Srr,but most are in

Speak the lhgO tO C可 。y the pЮ duCtiOn・

the 600 to 900 SI「 range. ′ he ticket ofiEce (口

・ hc horne of the national cornpany is ″ (SiOVenSk。 the Ⅳαr′ ο″α′D″α″a ZZ′ α′ I｀

Narodno Gleddittei SNG;● 126 4549 or ● 221462)at E」 avё eva cesta l;the box ofice there is open daily fronl 10 anlto l

prn and fron1 6 pm tili the performancc. ・rhe s′ 。ν Jα ″ ン b“ ′ み71λ ′ι (Slovensko “ 310610)in the Mladinsko`″Gleddi6ёe;● `α

Festival Hall(Festivalna lDvorana)at

I｀

'125 4840)of the

ο2`″ ″ο S`,Where b」 ldS ae dSO per lornled, at“ 2:upanё iё eva ulica l is open Monday to Saturday fronl ll alnto l p■ l and an hour beforc cach performance.

For tickcts to the Ljubljana Summcr Festival and anything clse staged at the jzα れ た,gO tO me boo ng o五 ∝ (● 126 κ″ 4340 or● 226544)opposite the nitta

ｒｃＣ ” Ｆ﹂＞ Ｚ ＞

巧ubjana― Entenanment 107

くＺく﹁Ｊｍ⊃﹁コ

108巧 ubuana― S"Ctator Spon Column at Trg Francoske Revducije l‐ 2.It is opcn weckdays fЮ m 9 arn to 2 pm and 'om 6 pm till thc perlormalce urday"Om loam m lpm.

ald on Sat‐

Rock&Jazz 町ubuana hぉ a numbcr of excellent music

drink alnOng the Well h(ん led sctis theA″ ca“

;―

`′ Bar above the Casa del Papa restaurant

at ClelovSka cesta 54a.It's open Monday to Saturday to 2 am. Down in the T'rnovo dist ct,the Sα χ pub 江 Eipplova ulica 7,decorated with wonder‐ ful mur」 s ald grari■ ,takes the spil10ver

clubs ald the ones listed below ac highly COmmCnded.ThC Rο tt G2″ On PI∝ nikOV “ trg l oppositethe Slovenim School Museum

froni the ncarbv 〕 KUID Francc PreSeren

is open till inidnight daily,except Sunday,

much iln butis sometiines casierto getinto

wi■ a DJ Thursday to SamKlay from 8 pm. The C″ οJα α らat BCethOVnOVa uliCa 8 just up from “ the “ Paliament building is

malthe sax.

Liublma's premier venuc br live jazz md attacts both locd ald intem■ iond tdent. It'sopen dttlyfrom 10 an o 2 an w∝ kdays and flom 7 Pin to midnight on Saturday and

Sund呼 勁 e capid's other j2z club,血 e E′

α C′″ らbelow

Nazo」 eva uHca 12,doesn't

hold a candle to G:UO butit's open iater― to 4 anl dally,cxcept Sunday.

Pub3&Bar3 0ne ofttebestplacesお rad

nkinLjub」 ana

ifyoujust wmtto sit Outsi“ md watch the passing parade is the roped‐ off caf6‐ pub on the southem side of PreSernov trg that loc」 peOple C」 lthe Kο ″∫ ″ Rψ (HOrSe'S hil)

【 ou'1l probably bump intO half the people

you've met along the way in Slovenia hen). It's open from June to OctOber till at lcast ■lidnight.Apleasant and cOngenial place fOr a′′ ッο or glass ofッ ′ ″οnelrby is the C“ ″ツ Sα ぁ たin the courtyな d behindヽ4olfova ulica 'ヒ

6 on Knanjev Prchod.

TrubtteVa CeSta,"deSmanised frOmjust no■ h― eastofhe E)ragon BndgetoPreSemov trg,is a lively strcet witll plenty ofpubs,bars,

as.()ne Of nly favourite placcs_espccidly fOr its nane― iSthc Z′ 勉′ ιBα r at No 53 open nightlyto 2 am. Pα ′ ″ たたし′ ガS力 P“ ιne`rby at Plに Ona ulica 6 caf6s and latc― night pizze

is also a pleasant place for a d

nk.

j′ α SP′ ″ο′ らnext to the Kompas travel ッ

ccntrc..The Sα れたin the santc bullding as the

Anika caf6 at Eipprova ulica 19 isn't hdf as

SPECTATOR SPORT For a schedule of sporting even“ l in the capit」 ,ch∝ k thc monthly И昴 ″′れ `″ 々 bケ α″αaVttlあle frOm the TIC. “ Fooball matches take place atぬ e Cent劇

Stadium(Centrani Stadion)at Dunaiska cesta,designed by Joそ c Pleё nik in 1925.It's

al eおy bus ride(bus No 6,8 or 21 to the Stadion stop)or a 20‐ minutc walk north up Dunttka cesta From Ccn“ I For baskctbdl, icc hockey and volleyball,the venuc is the Hala Tivoli spOrt centre in Tivoll Park,

THINeS TO BUY For general souvenirs andi folk crans,check out what's on of%r atthe C」 e ja zibka in

the SIon hotel,the Dom at Mestni trg 24,

ParaZ01 at Stari trg 15 and Laura at Tmbajevacesta40.They江 l have SIovenian thingS lkC Pκ kmu■ C bl∝ kp。 ■ e,,Idtta llЮ e,bechive

panels with f。 lk inodfs,deco‐

rated hea■ ‐ shaped hOney c出 【 es,painted Easter eggs,Roga毯 lka gltsswa.e and so on. The beSt pl∝ C in tOWnお r disdnctly Liub― lma SOuvenirs is the Ljublanё ek gin shop in the lobby ofthe Gran(l Hotel Union. Don't expect any ba・ gdns,but Canl101a

Antiqua a Trubtteva cesta 9帥

d An■ ka

Ferian tt Mestnitr,21 in thc 01d■ own have

Superb andqucs.G」 erija Lala a ZidOvska

agenCy at S10venska cesta 36 is a very

ulica 5 is one of the inest gallenes in the Capital,with both old and new an.

popularrnecting placc in the evening andcan get Vcry crowded.A favouritc place for stu―

casscttes Of all kinds Of music,including

′ ′ α″ わopposite thc SOu at Kersnikova ulica'P′ 5. A popular placc for a dentS iS if′

Big Bang iS a muSic shop with CDs and SIOVenian f01k,at Wolfovaulica 12.It's open

from 9 anl to 7 pnl and to l.30 pnl on

Ｆ﹂Ｃ 口 Ｆ﹂＞ Ｚ ＞

巧山 」ana― Getting Thcrc&Aw町 109 Saturday.Another good placc for nlusic is the Httd R∝ k shOp tt Trubaゴ eva ccs● 40 1f you,ve forg。 ■en yOur nshing rOd,ski poles, hiking boots or knapsack, head for s10venijaも pOn tt s10venska cesta 44.It's Open weckdays from 8.30 arn Ю 7 pm and on

Lev hOtcl,open wcekdays froin 8 anlto 7 pm

saturday t。 l pm. For those into ndin',

include:

and saturday to l pm.A more convenient branch (■ '126 2262)but open weekdays only(8 aun■ o4pm)is on the ground floor of llrg】Republike 3.

Other

rlines With OfiCeS in巧 ubljtta

■shin'and shootin',Lovec at Gosposvctska 12 has allthe kit and cquipmcnt you'1l need.

It's Open weekdays from 8 aln to 7 pm and On Saturday to l pm. A shop c」 led Koを e Grё ar a Canka]evo nabrctte 13“お sh∝PSkns and cow h“ s(to bc u“ d田 ■00rcOvermgs).It'sO"n from9.30 am illnOOn and 5to 7 pm on weekdays only. The city Of Tl彪 iё n。 ■h_west of Ljublana

has dways been synonymous with qudity shoes and the Pcko branches atC〕 opovaulica landMikloζ iё evaCeSta12oothopcnWeck‐ days 8 am to 7.30 pm,Samrday to l pm) stock a wide range. Sidro tt KOngresnitrg 3 sells naturd rem‐ edies,herbalteas and other concocdons,sorne

prOduced by the mOnks at Siё na Abbey in Dole」 ska.The shOp is open"om 8 aln to 6 pm ald On saturday t0 1 pin.An inte“ sting shOP called Apiteka in acounyald tO the east OfTmbarittaces● 53 dls di malmer ofbee‐

related itmS:Wax candles,honcy,pollen,

propolis etc.It's usu」 ly open鮨 o:n9am to 2 pm weekdays andt」 l noon on Saturday.

vinOteka simOn Bradeζ ko at DunttSka cesta 18 has a seleCtiOn Of SOme 400 Slo―

venian wines.It's open wcekdays from 10

Aeronot (●

313350),Dunttska cesta 2 1

Austnan Airlines (● 16840%)),:DunaJska ccsta 107 Luthallsa (● 326669),GOspOsvetska ccsta 6

Swissair (●

317647),Hotel Lev,Voζ ■akova ulica l

Bus Buses to desinations both Within Slovenia 籠ld abroad leave■ om■ he same bus station ―■o morc then a shcd,really― opposite thc tan st江 10n at Trg OF 4.For inお rma■ o■ ,

ng● 133 6136 or● 1334344(alld good luck getting tlrOugh).There'S al mfOrma‐ ion window,inside the stadon across frOnl the ticket Ones,Open from 5.30 ain to 9 pnl. The stafF arc mult■ ingud ald quitc helpful. For the mlost pat,you do not have to buy

your dcLtin advance;justpり as you board thc bus.lBut fOr10ng_distance t・ lps onF.riday,

just before the school break and public ho

‐

days,you Fu.e running the risk of not getting a scat.Book one the day before and reserve a seat for 120 SI′ r.

・ he bus stadon has a left-luggage ofEce I｀

ain to 7 pm and on Saturday fron1 9 ain to l

oPcn■om 5.30 anto 8.30 pm.If you think

pm. ヽrino 130utiquc at s10venska cesta 38

yOu'll anive aftcr closing time,lcave your

may not haVc as many cholCes,but it's more

bags at thc one in thc traln stat10n;it's open

cOnveniently 10caed and inost wines tte

24 hou■ sa day.The exchange ofice atthe bus

10 under 1000 SIT.Itis open weekdays frol■ am to 7.30 prn and on Saturday to l.30 pm.

staion is Open daily from 5.30 arllto 9 pm.

F:ea Market There's an antiques nea rnaket On can― kar〕 evO nab“ 荀e evew Sunday from 8 anto

lpm.

Ylou can reach vinually anywhere in the cOuntry by bus_as close as Kaimik(at least evcty ha← hOur)。 r as fT away as Vintain Bela Kl・ aina(1lrec

aday).Ifyou'replanning

atnptO Bled Or BO

可 ,take the buS and nOt the tran.・ hc trdn frOm ttublana tO the fOITrler will leave you at the IL′

esce‐ lBled

′ he 「

GETriNG THERE&バ ヽバY

station, 4km south― cast Of the lake.

Air

c10sest ralway stttion to Lake BohinJ is誠 BohinJska Bistnca,6km to the cast.It's on

A「

llle rnain ticket ofice for Adria Airways is

atGOspOsvetska cesta 6(●

313312)ncathe

the line linking Nova Gorica with Jesenice.

110 1ン jubtana

(3ctingハぱ ound

The dmetablein thebus station lists ali bus

,outes and times but herc are sorne sainple

iCquenCieS and One‐ Way farCS(“ tum faCS

Neaby is the Wasteels oface fOr BⅡ dckcts (Open WeekdaysfЮ m 9 am to 5 pm). You can s(ん k infonnatiOn fr01m window

ae double):Bled(houny,740 SIT),BohinJ (hourly, 1110 SIT),Jescnicc(hourly, 830

No ll and buy dorncstic tickets from

SIT), Koper(ninc to 13 a day, 1430 SI■

from window Nos 9 and 10.For CК )atia,go

'),

Maribor(evcry half― hour, 1550 SIT), Murska Sobota(eight a day, 2260 SI′

r),

,Rrm

Novo Mcsto(up to 10 a day,880 SI⊃

window Nos 3 to 8 and international ones to window No l or2. The f0110Wing are Solne one― way 2nd Clお S dOmestic fares■ om Liubjala:Bled

Ko"r940SE

(six to 10 a dり ,16∞ S「 )and PostOjna (half‐ hourly,670 SIT). BuSCS frOm巧 ub」 観 a SerVe a num“ r Of

451 SIT,Jesenice 545 SЩ

international destinadOns as well,lncluding:

usually 209,cheaper than double the price,

Belgrade (one daily, 5460 SIT), 13erlin ｀

(■

Vicdnesday at 7.30 pnl,15,546 SI■ ),Buda―

pest(Tuesday,Thursday and Fnday at 10 pm,6770 SIT),Frankirt(ヽ 4cdnesday江 7.30 pm,12,663 SIT),Klagenfurt(■ 4ednes‐ day at 6.15 am,1230S11),Lend('rhursday at 5.30 anl,2860 SIT),Munlch(Tuesday to Thursday at 5.05 or 5.30 am),Novigrad (daily at l.45 pnl, 2380 SIT), Prague (TuCSday,ThuSday and Saturday at 9 pin, 6580 SIT),Rijcka(daly at 7.40 pin,1020 SI「 ),Rovinj(ddly at l.45 pm,31∞ Sr), Split(daly at 7.40 pm,3830 SIT),Stuttgart ′ hursday at 7.30 prn), (WedneSday and 'I:Heste (ヽ 40nday to Saturday at 6.25 anl, 1370 SIT),Varιttdin(Saturday and Sunday at 6.35 an,2620 SIT)and Zagreb(fOur aday, 1900 SIT).

MIanbor 949 SI「 ,Murska Sobota 1260,SIT and Novo Mesto 61l SI'「 .Rctum f`u.es are and thel℃ 's a sinalisurchargc on d。 〕 mesuc

廿ain

lc

tickets.

Sanaplc onc‐ way 2nd class fares()n intcr―

national trains include Berlin 25,945 Srr, IBIudapcst 6110 SI・ r, Munich 9400 SI'r, Trieste 1786 SIr and Viuach 2030 SI「 .Seat

reselwaions(460S11)ac mandatOry On

SOme trainS and aVailable on others.An ex● a 150 SIr is levied On foreign IC traln dckets

and 250 SIT on thc One EC rain. For mol℃ infonnation On trans leaving 巧 ubjma,tum to thc Getting■ leκ &Awリ

ald Gettng Around chapじ rs.

I｀

Forinorc detalis On domesic and intema‐

tional bus serviccs sce thc Ccting'Therc& Away and Getting Around chapters.

Hitching lf yOu arc leaving Ljubljana by way of thuinb,take one ofthe fOl10wing city buses tO the terrninus and begin hitching there.1)o

■Ot actudly go on to the mOtOrway;use Onc Ofthe κccss a・ e`s wheFthe trafic is not disturbed. Postojna,Kopet CЮ atian lstrla&Itay(Trieste) Bus No 6 SOuth― west(stop:Dol」 Most)

Train All trains― both Sloveniall and foК )ign―

arrlve at and dcpat from the tran station (● 131 5167 brinbml江 iOn)at Trg OF 6. Thc leinOn‐ yellowbuildinghas ina」 y gOti“ long‐ awaited face_lin and now has quit a

few anlenities, including a bar, caf6,

Bled,Je"nicc&Austia(Salzburg) Bus No i nOrt卜

west(sbp:Vttma]e)

Novo Mcsto&CЮ aia(Zag"b)

Bus No 3 SOuth― east(stop:Rudnik)

Maribor&Austria(Ⅵ cnna) Bus No 6 north→ ast(s∞ p:Cmucc)

οた″pセ ツα′ ″jε ´ (SnaCk bar), McI:)onald's outlct(open 7 ain to 2 am dally)and grく Кery

■oノ FrOmlthe Airport

store.「 Fherc's a currency― exchange

Bus No 28(350 SIT)makesthe run between

bureau

neXt tO thc 'rIC branch ofFice, opcn dally fron1 6 ain to 10 pm.Thc left-luggagc is on platfol■

rl lヽ

To l(open 24 hours a day;150 SIT

per pieCC), and there are now iockers too.

GETTING AROUND LJubljma and Bmlk譴 ,0■ ,23km b t“ north― wcst,15

tiines a day Monday to Fnday

and cight ti:nes dally at the weekend.■ 'he irSt buS departS fOr the alrport at 5.20 arn

Ljubljana― Gctting Around lll

(6.10 arn on Saturday and Sunday),the last at 7.10 pnl.From lBnlik to the city the irst

busis at6 am(7 am on Saturday md Sundり

)

and thc last at 81p■1.Catch the airport bus at

ubljana's bus station frOm StOp No 28just east ofthe post ofice. ・ here are also thrcc to seven buses a day L」

I・

frOm Brnik to Kalnnik,between ive and 16 lo lKran」 and six to 10 buses to Zagreb and Rijcka.

AtaxifrOm Bmik arpo■ toLJublianawll 4(XЮ and 4500 SI′ ■ 1lo Blcd, expccttO pay about5000 SIT anddoublethat cOst bet、 veen

to lKranJska Gora.■ 1le SupcrShuttle scrvice (rnobile l●

041-640839)Picks up and drops

Offpasscngers atthe sIOn,Holday Lin,Grand Union,AustrOtel and Lcv hOtels bctween 6

am and 10 prn, but you nlust book in advance.・ hc farc is 250()SITpcr passengcr I｀

(●

1594114)at CelovSka cesta 160 or iom

the twO kiosks in〔 u:ked`LPP'on the pave―

lnent at S10venska ccsta 55 opposite whatis, in fact,t“ system'S Centrd StOp(BaVaS轟 ″α Dvor).Passes arc avallable for a day`どれιν

ν οzο νれ,cα , 240 SIT), a wcck(`ι ′ れstα ソ οzο ν″たα, 1200 SI'I｀ )or cven a rnonth れjε α, 3150/1600 SIT for s′ ι ″α ッοzο ッ r″ ι adults/students).The LPP office on Cel― '′

Ovska ccsta is Open frorn 6.45 anlto 7 prn Monday to Friday and to l prn on Saturday. YOu can reachit On bus Nos l,8 and 15(stop:

′

Avtomontaを a). rhe kliosks on SloVenska cesta are open Monday to Saturday frorn 5.30 am to 8 p■ l and on Sunday fron1 9 anl.

From the bus or tan StatiOnS,buS No 2

will take you down Slovenska cesta to Mestni trg(bus stop:Magistrat)in thc Old l10wn.110 rcach TrnOvo,catch bus No 9 to the ternlinus.

ransport From 1898 until 1958 public trans)ort Pub:ic l・

″ound LJubtana Was pЮ vided by tramS:

Car&Motorcycle

most of LJubljana's boOkshops recalling

PTking is nOt casy in central Ljubjana and, if you'rc not prcpared to pay in somc fornl Or anothcr,you'rc bound to get a ticket with

thOse nOstalgic urnes. Until 1971 electllc

a ine Ofup to 3000 SIT.In orderto park on

there's a wonderful picturc book avallable in

tЮ llcy

buscs did the job when hcy were

replaced by the polluting diesel buses that carry coininuters around the city tOday.

The system, run by LPP(Ljublanski Potnigki PrOmet),iS eXCCllent and Very uSer‐

fricndly.Every bus stop has a naine,which appears on the lplan in thc bus shcltcr olr is

postcd somcwhec nca the stop.There Te a total of 22 1ines with ive ofthem(Nos l,2,

3,6 and ll)considered rnan ones.Thcse start at 3.15 am and run ti11 lnidnight.The

any street with bluc lincs paintcd by the kcrb

yOu shOuld buy coupons from IDelo orTlobak kiOsks Or petr。 l staions for 150 SIT(vdid for one ortwo hours,depending on the loca― tiOn)and plaCe then1 0n the daShbOard inSide・ There a℃ car pa・ ks throughout the city

and their locations are illdicated on inost ′ inaps.「 o park in the underground garage

beneath MikloSiё ev I)ark, for cxanlple, you'1l pay 400 SI「

for the■ .rst●vo hours

restOperate between 5 am ald 10.30 pm.The

(minimum)and 2(Ю SIT forevery additional hOur The Open car pak on Trg Republike

inaln lines run abOutevery ive to 15 nunutes throughout the day.Servicc is less fl℃ qucnt

costs 200 SIr per hou■

on other lines and on Saturday,Sunday and holidays.

・T'he

systenl is fool― prool Yiou can pay on board,which COStS 100 SIT(the driVer dOeS

not giVe change but aCCeptS nOteS)。 r uSe a tiny yel10W plaStiC tOken(``′ οれ,COSting Only

70 SIT and avallable at inany newsstands, klosks,tobacco shops and post ofices. Bus passes(as Well aS tOkCnS,Of COuSC) can be purchased from iLPP's ccntral ofice

Car Rentai Both big intemationd car―

rental

inns and iocal companics have officcs in 助ubljma,inCluding:

ABC(● 064-261684;fax 064-261669),Brnik ai叩 0■

Alpetour(● イfax 064-2216α )),Brnik airpo■

Avis(● 1687204:fax 374 151),World Tradc Ccntrc,Duna」 ska cesta 156,or through any Adria office

くＺく ﹁コｍ⊃﹁Ｊ

112 Around ttubljana AvЮ imr"x(■ 555025:fax 322 615),Celovζ

ulica 13

Komp¨ Hertz(●

For inforination about organised bike

ka ces●

150 Eurodollar(● 1263118:fax 213 947),Stefanova

tours,see Cyclng in the Activities section of the iFacts for theヽrisitor chapter.

311241,fax 572 088),Mikloこ iCcva

AROUND LJUBLJANA

cesta ll

Let's face it,an awfullot in

For sanlple ratcs and infornlation on condi―

`征

ttic Slovenia is

Ound巧 ubtana'and mOSt Of thC tOWnS

tions,sec the(Clar&Motorcycle section in

and citics in Gorcniska,Primorska and

thc Gctting Around chapter.

Notral」 Ska could actu」 ly be day trips froln

Taxi

the capital.Ylou can bcin Bled in an hour,for eXarnDle,and On the COaSt in leSS than tWO.

llaxis,which can be halled on the street or hi:℃ d"om ral■ cs such as those neathe tain

Sko巧 a Loka,Kannk and Velika Planinaな o less than 30k■ l away,and(Cerknica is only

station, in front of the Slon hotel on

50knl to the south― west.

SIovenska cesta or on Mcstnitrg,cost 150 to

200 SIr at nag fall and 130 to 160 SIT for

each additional kilometre, depending on which zOne you anD travelling in.The per―

hour walting charge is bctween 16(X)and 20(X)SIT.Ylou can call ataxi on 10 numbers:

● 9700 to ● 9709. Private taxis include Laguna(● 1611204)and Katana(● 639358).

AnotherPleё nik inasterpiece,the monurnen― ta 2ale Cemetelγ (PokopdiRe Z」 e),3km to the noih‐ east of Clentet has a senes of

chapels dedicated to tlle patron salnts of

Liubuma's churches,md the enぼ 狙ce

is an

enormous two‐ storey arcadc.■ is a very

peaceful, green place and `horne' to a

B:cycie 巧 ub」 ana iS a City Of CyCliStS and the“

aC

bikc lanes and special traf■ c lights every‐ wheκ .unfonunttelヌ only a very tw places

ent them(15∞ SΠ

芝ale

｀

giVe yOu a liSt Of the"r f0110Wing naFneS,but day).The TIC will

you must nlake your own arrangements:

numberofSlovenian actors,w

trs,pdntrs

and a certain distinguished architect _ G}OSDOd PiCё nik hiFnSeli YOu Can reaCh Z`」 e

on bus No 2 or7(stop:Zale).

Smarna GO田 his 669rn hill above the Sava River,12kFn no■ h‐ westofLiublma,isapopula walHng 'I｀

Druも tvo Koloklub(Bicycle Clubl● Tavё

1339188), s8mito 4 pm

Kos D"njan(● 553α )6),justnorth‐ westofthe■ tija "eva ulica 2,open weekdり hotel at■ lgomerjeva ulica 35,o"nw∝ Mays 9 anito 5 prn,Saturday and Sunday 9 anito l prn

R08(● 315868),Rozm":ova ulica,open w∝ kdays

3am o 7pm,S■ ulday

desination from LJubljma and a mecca br hang‐ gliders and paragliders.Thke lbus No

15 fronl Slovenska cesta or(3}osposvetska ces絋 to the Medno stop ald begin wdking,

Another way to go is via the Smlednik bus

dli noon

frOm the man st飩 1。 n ald then f。 Rog,which isjust north ofAmbroれ

v trg,is

also a good place to buy new and recondi‐ tioned used bikes.

11。

w the

nlarked Path froin the 12th century Slmiednlk Castie,There's swimming and boating in Zb‖ lo Lake nearby.

Goreniska H:GHLiGHTS

MIountans and lakcs ac the big attraction in

・ Takein the viewfrom MtT ta‖ ett

glav,Slovenia's

peak

●Enioythet‖ p by cablo carto Vb:lka Planina near Kaninik

Triglav National P'ark contains inost Of s10venia's share Of the Julian Alps, with

・ Ga20 upOn the painted burgher hOuSeS Of

Mestnitrg in SkOfia Loka o visn the fasdnating B00kooping Museurri 醸 Radovliica

many peaks rising tO well over 2000m. ■lere's a 10t Of skiing herc,and Goreniska offers sOmc Of tte bcst hiHng in Europe.A mountain trek is an excellent way to rncct

●DiscoVer the ironnlOngering villago of Kropa o Marvelttthe Chuch of StJOhnthe Ba口 iSt at Bohini,the mostbeaul仙 land evOCat o

other Slovenes in a relaxed environinent so take advantage of this oppo■ unity if you're in Go“ n,ska du ng the hiHng scお on.

hOuse o子 worship in lSlovenia

o ExploЮ Vintgar Gorge near Bled ・ IExperience the hair‐ raising d‖ ve upto and

The lakes■ Bled and BOhini ae dSO

descentfrOln vrも

popular centres for any nunlber of outdoor

i●

Pass in the Julian Alps

acivities,but GoEttSka dso has maly of Slovenia's most attractive,histo

cal towns.

も kO]aIЮ ka,Kamnik,Krani andRadov」 ica ―tO nainejust atw― a“ treasure tЮ vcs of Gothic,Renaissance and baroquc art and architecturc and wonderful bases from which to exPlore■ is diverse and visually spectacular provincc. IBIecause of the difficulty of eking out a

living in mountainous areas,the pcople of Gorenjska hⅣ c a r"ut“ on in Slovenia br fty'si“ being on the,wen,let'sjustsay`th 【 ou won't see evidence of this yourself,but

.

1望

youll pЮ b“ ly heara rfewjOkeslib the ones made aboutthe Scots.

Own mint and school,Kamnik(Stein in Germm)cOmpetedwithLjub」 mattd】0狙j for economic and cultural dorninance in

KAMN:K

Kl・

.′ qP 980o o

●″a

θ●06′ ・ rο ′

′οs,cο ごθr2イ 0

anjska(Carniola)血

ЮughOut

the Middle

Ages.ThetownWaSbownお ritslagenumbers

¶his hisoricd Own`inぬ e bosom of the t ofLi¨ tanヘ mounans'just 23km norぬ 刊鳩

of a・ds田 ls

and craf"peopL,lmd it Was on

is ltequendy given a miss by travellers en

IV bestowed the inassive forests around

rOute tO Bled Or Bohini,But Kl田 lnik's tidy

Kanimヽ ka Bis

this rising midde class ttatBmperorChales cain me 14h century,

For centunes Kannik conmolled the passin

tive lmedievd core,with its houses

=ld at廿 `“ and pOrt〔 ns Of hewn stone, balconies and

ぬe■ lhi■ Vttey tO the eSt■

arcades,is well wOnh a visit.It was declared

pensabltfor moving goods iom the coast譴 証eぉ tOStalerska`nd KoЮ Ska.But whenthe ЮutC WaSredi“ CtedViaTrOianetOtteSOuth‐

a cultural and histO

cIは

inonumentin 1986.

Hi3bリ E.stalblished early in thc 13th century under the Coun“ of Andechs ttld later cldming its

at WaS indiS‐

east in“ 1∝ Юs,Kaimikfelim adeep sleep and only awakened in the late 19th century

whenhetOwnwaslinkcdby ttloLiub」 ma. 113

００コｍＺ﹂∽バ＞

GoEnjska gp"r Camiola),thc province m“ in many waysf∝ ,ls more`Slovcnian'thlm 狙y Oth∝ Thc stそ Ofthe Kanmik― SⅣ inja Alps at a shon drive from巧 ublana,and

114 GorcnJska― Kamnik

くＶ∽﹁Ｚｕ匡０ ０

ヽ ./・

〆 κ ■

▲

ci鳥 Ⅵ c

菫●01

Kannnik becannc a rnecca fOr holldaying Of● e centu,due to easy access to the Karnnik Alps and their

I`ル ιクα ″dα ″Jatthetum

もutna.Kamnik― Mesto,which is cOnvenient for the C)ld Town and its sights, is on Kdodvorska ulica west Of the Litde Castle.

popular thermal baths.The baths were destroyed during Wヽ VI and, though it

ljana‐ Kamnik

remaned a gateway in subscquent dccades

trg On Tu」 iSka CeSta

Kamnik― Graben,thc terminus Of the Ljub‐ line,is nO■ h_west Of Glavni

lor hikcrs and skiers hcaded fOr theヽ lclika

Planina to the north, Kanlnik began tO industnalise and cxpand.

information ￢OuriSt O“ iCeS The tourist oficc(●

831

470;fax 831 176)江 Glavni trg 23 can

Or:entation

Karnnik lies On the right bank of thc Kainniζ ka Bistrica River and sOuth of thc

Kamnik Alps,which form part Of the Kainnik‐ Savinia chain.Thc 01d Town con― SiStS Of tW0 0a■ s:medieval Glavni tg and

the newer`siburb'。 fも utna,“ any Juζ t

the

southern cOntinuation of the square. 1く amnik's bus station is nearthe nver east of Glavnitrg atthe end of Pregemova ulica.

ar■・ ange boOkings,find keys t。 locked sights

and organisc guidcs for cxcursions intO the nlountains. It alsO publishcs a very useful

α′& κα ″たα″″Eれ ッ麟ο″s.lhc "4み “ to September from office is Open `ゎ dally June English― languagc b00klet called "物

′κ―G“ ′ グ

8 ani to 6 1Pnl.I)uring the rest of the year WeCkday hours arc 8 ain■ o4p■ l and 9 ain to

l Dm On Saurdav.The Kamnik AIDine

Society(● 831345)at Sutna 42 will advise

Thctown hぉ ■hree tain staiOns.The main

you On hiking guides for walking in the

one is on Krattska cesta,south―

Kam

west of

k Alps and weaher conditiOns there.

Gorcttska―

into a snake whcn she refused to help the

The Ofice is Open weckdays frorn 8 anl till n00n(On vvcdnesday also fronl l to 5 prn).

Money SKB Banka,which has an AT

Kainnk l15

l,is

(]11listian faithful build a church.Not only wasthc old galinean butshe was spitefultoo. In her rage at having becn asked to contnb― utc,she struck thc entrance to the castle with

nOon and 2 b 5 pm on wcckdays only.Just north, at No 14, you'1l find a privatc

her ist.Ifyou look to the nght ofthe po■

exchange burcau callcd Publikum open to 6

hand.ヽ vieronika continues to rule the treasurc

prn weekdays and frorn 8.30 anltill noon on Saturday.

ofthe Li■ le Castle and,in a way,the com‐ inunity of Kanllik too.Shc appcars both on

al

as you go in,you'1l scc the inlprint of her

the tOwn seal and on the

■cence plate of

POst&(communications Thc post office,

every car registercd here.

opcn frorn 7 anlto 7 pnl weckdays and till n00n On saturday,is at Glavnitrg 27.

quiet and attractivc inaln steet ofSutna is a

Medica:Services Kainnik's medica cente

trip back in timei check outthe finc neoclas‐ sical hOuse with columns atlヽ Io 24,the stone

From the Li■ le Casuc,a Wdk」 ong the

side Ofthe lく arnniSka Bistrica River,overthe

relief of thc IPascal larnb above thc door at No 36 and the fresco indicating a butcher's

bndgc frOnlも Olska ulica.

ShOD Sign a No 48.

Things to See&Do

Church ofthe AnnunciatiOn,crected in the mld-18th centuり but with a detached bclfリ

(,831611)is■ Novitrg 26 on me opposite

In thc centre of Sutna stands the!Parish

Thc Franciscan iT:OnaStery(1492),a short distance to the SOuth― west of thc tourist Ofiicc at Fianё igkanski trg 2, has a rich library ofthcological,philosophical and sci―

entific rnanuscripts and incunabula dating frorn the 15th to 1 8th ccnturies(including an

Ongind copy of tte Bible translaじ dby Ju

j

Dalmatin in 1584),and somc vduable paint― ings by carly s10venian artists.Ask one of thc prlests in residence at the rnonastery

831155)if yOu can have a look.Next dOOr is the Church of St Ja:Tles with a chapel designed by Joを e Pleё nik,who also did the attractive beige― and― orange house with the glassed― in loggia(now■ le R Bar) (雪

thatshOws an e`rlierchurch's GothК o gins. A short distance beyond at Sutna 33 is the

Sadnikar Co‖ ection,a pHvate inuseum― the irst in Slovenia(1893)― of(〕 othic atwork,penod furniture and panings iOm the 18th century amassed by Josip Nikolal Sadnikar(1863‐ 1952),a local veterinTian and painten ltis opened by arrangementwith the tounst office.

Zaprice Castle, with towers, ancient stone walls and an interesting chapel at MuzeJski pot 3,was builtin the 16th century

but later convertcd into a baroque nlanor house.′ Iloday it's the hoine of thc l(amnik

Museu:m, with some dullish exhibits

On the castcrn sidc of Glavni trg.

The Lttle Castie(M」 i Grad),on a low

devoted to Kaninik's glory days and 18th

hill abOve thc sOuthern cnd of(31avni trg,is

century furniture. More intercsting arc the granaries from the 18th and 19th centuries

Kanmik's most imponant historic」 sight.It

has foundations going baCk tO the llth ccntury,and thisis where thc town mint once stOOd.Bchind the castle stand the ruins of a

uniquc two― storey R(onnanesque chape: 、′ ith 15th century frescoes in its lower nave and、 vall paintings by Jancz Potoё

nik(1749-

outside that have been nloved frorn the Tuhi可 Ⅷ ley.Thc museum is open May to Septeinber缶 om Tuesday to Saturday at 9 arn tO n00n and on Tucsday,′ rhursday,Friday and Saturday frolT1 4 to 6 pin.1)unng the rest

of the year it opens in the moming ioin

′

fOr the key if you care to have a look.

I'uesday to Sunday and in the aftemoon only on ruesday and′ rhursday.

The Littic Castle is home to Veronika,a legendary countess,″ ho was turned pa■ ly

The Miha MaieS Ca‖ ery on Glavnitrg l cOntalns works by the eponymous palntcr

1834)in the prcsbytery.Ask thc tounstofice

００コｍＺ﹂０バ＞

at Glavni trg 13.Itis opcn iom 8.30 am till

116 GorenJska― Kainnik md graphic artist who was bom in Kainnik in 1903.It k∝ )ps thc sane hours as the

Kamnik Museunl.

The O:d Castio(Stari Crad),a13th くＶ∽つＺШ∝０ ０

Century nlin on]Bergantov Hill east of the centre, call lbe reached from the end of Malstrova ulica on footin about 20■ tinutes.

40 minute w」 k up frOm the village ofCrna but make this`pilgnmage'only on Saturday and Sunday when the church door is open. The frcscocs on the north wall depict the Flightinto Egypt,the Ador■ ion ofthe Magi and Mana Misencordia― the Ⅵ rgin MIttγ

'1llere aHD excellent views ofthe 2ヽ lps and the

sheltering supplicants under her cloak in a scene silYular to the one at the church in

tolwn f,om the top of this 585in hill.

Ptujska Gora(see Around Ptuj in the

C)n a hill east ofStahovica,a village about

4.5km no

h of Kamnik,is lle Church of

Sts Primus&Fe‖ c:an wiぬ some ofthc best medieval ficscoes in Slovenia.It's about a

PLACES TO STAV 2 PH Coladu Cuooい

StaJerSka Chapter).■ lC p

nting On tte SOu血

w」 Ishows∝ enes from the lit ofMiary ald is dated 1504.

Some 4km south of Kamnik is Voi可

¨ “

1::l織 I鋼p:‖ L PLACES TO,日′ T ヽ

7日 aninI嗜

Кenda R● au“ nt “

17V●『い lh C● ,6

0T"ER l Kamnik Cに bon T"in Shtion 4Sヽ mming 6 Touttt α

Pooこ Pod Skllo

“

6 Town H」 "∞ O Fmnd“ 鍮n Mo■ 膊,o″ O Chu商 d StJamo● 10 SKB Bank● l

1l Pub‖ mm

12 Po“

Ex菌

Ofno●

13 0ol● 市 ,oM」 14 Buo Station

`"●

Bu′ ● ●●

dm

9▲

16 R Bar 18 RO,71an00qu● Chapel 100'd C8Stl●

"L回

￨ロ

oα

22 Ta Sta‖ "“ lH● h Pub 23隆 mnlk‐ M● ●O Tttn Stauon

a Kamnlk ttm S‐

oty

訓

３ ●Ｚ 、

４ ０１

Bb"rv a'Churdう oitho Annundation “ 27S● dnikar Cdlα 油 28 Zap"α ,Casuo■ " Mじ um “

Kaninlk

"′

`29″

11■

l

GorenJska―

Pc)tok,Slovcnia's largest and inost bcautiful arboretunl,With the heart‐ shaped park of a

Kamnik l17

81733o),Pκ gemova ulica 14c,o“ ers

(●

basic but very centrd accom■ lodation in ll

rctuin cOunts mOre than 45α 〕vaneties of

r00ms and breよfastお rD:M40 perl"rson. Pr,casα げ′(● 832917),a12-Ю om gucst‐

trees,shrubs and iowers tom a1 0ver the WOrld.V。 1可 i POtOk'Sg“ enery,pOndS and

charges I)M55ノ

fOrmercastlc as its corc,tlle 88‐ hcctare arbo―

house a bit farther aield at llunJiこ ka cesta l, 1(X〕

for singles/doubles.

inodation can be found at a

place to visit on a warm suminer's day.It's Open dally March to October fr01n 8 an to 6

couple of gostlne in Stahovica on the road

pm,and the entry fcc is 500/350 SIT lor ′ adults/children. rhOugh five buses a day

Kamniこ ka Bistrica.Pr'P′ αれ

alTive here drectly■ om Kainnik on weck―

(●

to Velika Planina and the villagc of (●

ι″ 0″ ′

“ Pri Cα ″s“ 825410)at StahovК a 20 ald'4sた

days, there's only one on Saturday and

825588)at Stahovica 31 have fourorive rOOFnS eaCh and Charge abOut lDヽ 430 per

sunday.If yOu're stuck,tよ e the R“ ol je

pcrson for accornrnodation Only.

bus,which stOps close by.

The outdoor sw:mming pooi neそ r the

P:aces to Eat

cainp site on Mastrova ulica is opcn inid‐

′ ′ T'he Fviα ′ο ,

June tO mid_scpteinbcr i01n 10 an to 6 pm

sOuth‐ west of the Little Castle,is opcn ttom

(9 pm tt weckends).Licences for fishng in the Kamniζ ka Bistica a・ e avalable at the Gostilna Pri Planinskem Orlu(sec PlaCeS tO stay)and costI)M28 a day.

a pizzcrla at sadnikat]cva 5

9 ant。 10 pm from Mbndayto Saturday and frOm l prn on Sunday.'I｀ he rnost convcnient

restaurant in Kamnik is P′ αれ たα κ opposite the tounst o3Lce at Cllavni'れt・

aα

`″ g19.It

is Open fronl Monday to Saturday frOn1 8 ain

Special Events The big festival in Kamnik is Nttional Costume Days(Dnevi Narodnih NoS),a ts‐

t01o prn and On sunday from 9 anlto 5 pm. Lunch rnenus at 500 to 750 S11｀ are good value.

α″ ″αル″″メκ The,κ ッ ちon the corner Of

tival held On the second Frlday,Saturday and

iα

sunday ln Septemben A hdidozen stages a・ e set up around town,and there's inusic, dancing,parades and general rnen:ymaking. ′ I'hc event attracts pcople frorn a1l over S10venia. Kalmik Evcnings is a four― day

fesiva1 0f cOncens held in mid‐ (Dctober

4♭

Glavnitrg and Japljeva ulica,is a good place tO cO。 l your heels over a cup of something

warm and a slice of cake. It's the nlost

t popular caf6 in town and doubles as an I】 ・

gallcry.'Thc Vcronika is open daily till nud‐ night or l anl.

Thcre are big nower and horticulturd shOws atv01ё ji POtok h lateApriVealy Mり

Entertainment

and in early Septembei

Lira,s10venia's first choir(foundcdin 1882) and still going strong, occasionally gives local concerts.Ask the staff at the tourist

Places to Stay The tiny R`sれ た cainp site(● 817314)is n。 ■h_cast Ofthe old TOwn on the Nevljica River at Malstrova ulica 32.It is opcn frorn

May tO septenlber and charges 300/20()/200

Slη ′ ο,open

Thcrc`u・ e a couplc of good pubs in town, including the R Bα rin the house thatiPleё nik ′ built on(〕 lavnitrg and 7b S′ α″ ,yet another

s10venian`Irish pub'at Sutna 8.・ ra Stari is Open till inidnight(10 prn On Sunday).

SIT per person/car/tent site.'There's a tennis

cOun and the public swimming poolis adJa― cent, as is a popular gostilna called Pο

ofEce for inforination.

ど

till 10 pm(midnight On Week‐

endS).

Things to Buy (E〕

heck out the interesting old clockrnaker's

With Liubljana so closc,Kanmik docsn't seem t()havc nluch nced for a hotel ―or

江 Malstrova ulica l ncar the pOSt Oficc.At

budget accommodation.P″ ″οび舵 αttι ″滋

M劉 。lka sells souvcnirs,palntings,porcelan

No ll of thc samc strcet,thC Galcrija

０ ０ ” ｍ Ｚ ﹂０ バ ＞

(:)ther accol■

nearby Iく alnnigka Bistnca make it a lovely

118 GorenJSka― Velika Planina and antiqueS.ItiS Open from 9 am to 7 p:n

herds in ther pointed green felt hats will scI

weekdays and till noOn On Saturday.

you curd,sour nulk and white cheese. やlelika Planina is a pOpular slki area with

Getting There&Aw'ay

6knl ofslopes.]Dlepcnding on the snowfall,a

Bus sen′ ice is frequent― at lcast one depar‐ ture eVelγ h」 Fhourto and from DomZ」 e,

Chalr 貴 fCrrleS sはers up to Gradiも ёe fronl the uplド c`r station ddly betwecn

Komenda,巧 ubljana,Mcngcる ,Radomljc and Stahovica. I`lou can also rcach GornJi rad on between t、 ″o and six buses a day,

(:】

ca(thec),Krmj(seven on weckdays,mo on Satudり ),Liubno(twoto Karmiζ ka Bis

ive),Logaska Dolina(LogarVi」 ley;one on

Sunday at 6.45 arn), Mozirie(one), SenlakOb(SiX)and V。 1晰 i POtOk(■ Ve On WeCkdayS,One dally at WeekendS). Kamnik is on a direct面 1line from LJub― lana(24kin,one hou→ via DoniZde.Count on up to 17 trans aday ineach drectiOn.The

line terminates at the Karnnik‐

(3raben

station.

VELiKA PLANINA

・ α″αω″ ●θ6ノ

'r cable‐ Dccemberand April(Friday toSunday evcW hour,bctw∝ n8田 n and 5 pm atothertimes)

and sOrne Ofthe six′ r bars may bc running. For infonnatiOn,cOnt`K)t the tounst ofnce in

Kannikorthe KannikSki Club(●

817228)

at Medvedova ulica 10.

places to Sby&Eat ■'hcre's quite a choice of accornlnodadOn in Vlelika Plaluna.JuSt a feW SteDS fiOnl the upper StadOn,the Cο s′ jぶd`S勧 ″οッ (● 831

425)has 24 Юoms with shaFd showers “ br D}M17 per person. Among the rnOuntain lodges Offering accominodatiOn, daily betwecn June and Septenlbcr and at the

WCCkend during thc rcst of thc year, そ u℃ ガαJs″ Dο ('713 137 or mobile “ “ '0609-647524)in Velika Planina and ご ス壼ピ Dο ″ (● 724 316 or mobile● 0609‐ “ 639317)in M」 a Planina,cach with nine multi‐ bed rooms. Dο

The so― c」 led Great Higmands area,whch reaches a height of 16661■ ,is a wonderful plaCe t()eXp10re and is accessiblc to 1418■ 1 by cable cr r`′ ζ ガcα りfrom the lower staion llknl north of Kamnik.The slx‐ ■linutc ride

is not for the sHttish!YOu can dso w」 k tO ｀ 4elika Planina frOril Stahovica.taking in the 、

Church ofSts Primus&Felician above Crna along the way,in abOut threc hours.

Vclika Planina is where traditiond daly fariners gr`zc theL cattle between June and

ScPtemben lf you follow the road from the upperStadon up thellill lorabout2knl,you'11 rcach a highland plaln■ 1led with mOrc than 50 shcpherds huts and a sinali church dcdi‐

At the lower cable‐ ctur station yOu'1l ind

S01nething tO Cat at thC SimplC BJυ Z:d″

P7・ :

」(」 Ong With piCnic tables and ba・ be‐

`ε Cue pits)open iom 7.15a:nto 8 Pm(10 pm ielika Planina. the at weekends). In ｀ ψ

S`′

″″ο〃

has a full lestaurant Open dally

from 8 am to l()pFn, and there'S an ο々″Pと να′ れたα (SnaCk bar)at 2bleni Rob about a ki10rnctre up the hill open dally in season.

cated to 101ur Lady of thc Snows. T'he

Gettlng There&Around

low― lying rounded buildings with cOnical

The cablecar statlon can be reached frorn

roofs are uniquc tOヽ 4elika lPlanina,and the design inay be a legacy of ancient shepherds dating baCkaS farasthe Bronze Age.Iloday's Silvc卜 grey huts arc replicasi the o ginds

Kaコ nnik On three buscs aday.Frorn inid_June to Septenlber,the cable cT runs every haf_ hourlMIonday tO Thursday froin 8 an to 6 pm

,om aound thc turn of the ccntury were burncd tO the ground by the Ccrmans in

In winter(mid‐ Dccembcr

WWII. P:anina(1569m)to the south willtake only

the reSt Ofthe yCarit gocs Monday to Thus_ day at 8 and 8.30 anl,noon and 12.30,4.30 and 5 pnl and Friday tO Sunday every hour

a feW hOurS.In surnrnen the f

frorn 8 am to 7 prn.

A crcular walk Of the plaln and Mala endly shep―

and Friday,Saturday and Sunday dl1 8 Pin.

tO Mach)thc

dally SChedule is frol■ 8 ain to 6 pin.Dunng

Gorettska― Kamnigka Bistrica l19

KAMNIもKA BiSTRICA

History

Tllis pretty little settlement in a valley ncar

ln 973(:〕 errnan iEmperor Otto II presentcd

the sOurcc ofthe Kamni`ka Bistrica Rivcr is car st江

thc Bavarian Bishops of Freising with the iCa Va■ eyS a10ng thC PObangё iCa and SClも ё nvers.Thc point whcrc the two tributaries

(●

inerge tO form the Sora lRiver began to

3k■l north ofthc lVielika Planina lowcrcablc―

νκα ″ぶた,3,srrた j lon,andthe Dο “ like“acconllnoda― 825544)offers hostel―

develop as a town.

tiOn in multi― bed roorns forI)M22 per person

(DM16 br membos ofthe PZS or other

climbing assOci■ iOn).Check― inisfrom 7 am t。 9 prn in surnrner,8 arn to 8 pm in winte■ Kainniζ ka Bistnca is thc springboard lor ous ttld КWarding ianlnik Alps treks such as the ones to Grintovec(2558■ 1:1l hours return),Brana

some ofthe more amb Iく

(2251■ 1;eight hOurs)and Pianiava(2394■ 10 hOurS).

1:

・rhc nlost pOpular hikes,though,are the casicr, 31レ イ ,― hour oncs north‐ wcst to the rnOuntain pass Or saddlc at Kokra Saddie

・ he Freising bishops held control over I｀

Skola LOka(Bischaf■ κk in German)お r nlore than cight centurles―

and two actually

metthcir makerin the town.Bishop Leopold drOwned in thc late 14th century when his hOrse slipped ofF thc new bridge(no guard rails in thOSe dayS)and COnrad WaS mur―

dered three decades iater by a greedy fOOtman whO wanted the bishop's5000 gold ducats.

In he Midde Ages SblaLokadcvcloped as a trade ccntre along the Municll‐

(KOkrSkO Sedlo; 179 1ln)and north to Kamnik Saddie(Kamnibko Sedio;1903in).

I【 lagcnfuit― Trieste route,doing particularly we■ in irOn,linen and furs.A circular wall

(E)n the Other side Of the latter lies Rinka

with ive gates protected by guard towers

Waterfall and Logarska II)olina (sce thc

was built arOund tlle town in 1318 to ensure

UpperSaViniaVi」 ley

that this success continued.

SeCtiOn Ofthe StaJerSka

chapter). Each saddle has a mountaln hut dα on (宙 831 345 br both)iC″ zOッ α κο 丞&″ れれ′ ζ たα 」 (ο dα on Iく okrgko Sedlo and Kamniこ ko sed10.BOth a・ e open ttom 20 June to 10(Dctober The mttn trails in the Kannik Alps are

well lnarked and pass numerous spnngs,

watr」 Is

and cavcs.cuides a“

avallable

,om thetourist officc in Kamnik,butthe lcss

encrgetic may bc contenttopicnic aroundthc lake near the hOStel,C001ing thell.(l

nkS(Or

Butit was al for naught.An anny ofthe

COuntS Of Celie breaChCd the W」 l and burncd the tOwn tO thc grOund in 1457;two decadcs iater thc ・ urks attackcd. ・Then I｀

natural disasters st・

uck:an earthquake in

151l badly darnaged the town,and scveral g“ 江 iκ s■ the end of the 17th centurv κduced most of Sko巧 a Loka's incst build‐ ings to ashes.

In 1803 the Habsburgs took posscssion of

the town.譴ld the advent ofthe r江 lwav l■ er

tet)in the blue Alpine watei KainniSka Bistica cari be reached from

in the ccntuly put Skola Lokaon tte road to industrialisation,especially in the neld Of

Kainnik on three buses a day.

textiles.

SKOFJA LOKA ο′′ 2.イ ・′

)・

Orientation

22θ ι●θ6イ ・ ′ο ∫ rcO′ ′イ α■ ′ a rο ′

`χ `Bishop's Mcadow'一 a LOka―

The new pal of Skola Loka― without any

vies

redeenling qualities except that things of a

with Ptuり and iPiran for being arnong the

practicai nature are centreく l around

Sko巧

beautiful in Slovenia.When the castle and

Kapucinski trg― lies nol■ h of the Selこ ёica River.The 01d Town to the south consists of two squacs-long streets really― called Mestnitrg and SpodnJitrg,lwhich run south―

other old buildings arc illurninated at night

ward fronl(3ankar」 ev trg and the river.

at thc wcckend,Sko増 a Loka tよ es on the

Mestni trg,which is thc nlorc bcautilul and

appearance of a fairy-l

histOric」 ly

oldest settlemen“ in Slovenia.Today the101d Town is protected as a historic」

and cultur」

monumcnt(1987)and is arnong tlle rnost

e v■ lage.

lmpOnant,bans cars dЮ gether

120 GorcnJska― も ko巧 a Loka whilc Spod"i trg(」 so known鎖,Lonぼ g) remans a busv thoroughfare. もko巧 a Lok:'sbussttionisinKapucinski trg atthe footbndge leading to CankarJev trg. The train station is 3krn to the north― cast,at the end ofIく idriё eva cesta,in the industl■ al

souvenirs and has a senes of handouts on a wide range OfsubleCtS― frOm me histOry Of the town and local lace― making to hiking,

ishing and what fams in the ata o優 ler accOmmOdttiOn.It asO Omes guided tOurs ofthetown and Loka Museum(60Ю /450 SIT

く Ｙ ∽ つＺ Ш ∝ ０ ０

br adul憾 たhildren).

suburb of T｀ rata.

The Sko3a Loka Alpine Society('620 667)is a Mestnittg 38.

inforrnation

￢ounst Offices Skofia Loka's tou (●/fax

st officc

620 268)is at Mestnitrg 5 md o"ns

Money Gorettska Banka,next to Kompas

on wcekdays fron1 9 ani to 7 pnt and on

ald the Transm

Saturday tili noon.'The office sells rnaps and

is openIMondayto F

st hotel■ Kapucinst trg 7,

day from 8 am to 6 pm

PLACES TO STAY

10P0310“ ● 0 1l Cepu`力 in Monageγ 12 Churい oi St Anno

8 TranduH」 Hotol

PLACES TO EAT

13 Lunα ョPub

2 Nema DOpar"Ont StO●

14 Volospo「 “

OTHER

l SЮ Banh 3M● 蔵●t

4 Hn“ h

Su"m"“ 0 blo Stondl

60o"■ ●L BanL

7 Кomp● ●Tntt AOOn"

`'""′

肛

もkola Loka ム

"

do

￨￨●

Sphl chu蘭 P agι

′ Ю日‖ ●

お m●「お wn H● Loke C“ u● a Mu● oum

筋 一 ¨

t●

t Bicソ

l

Churい d Stuam03 0口 n● lγ′ 0● ry′ Pub PH● 11'o HOu● o Homan Hoi“ 〕 o4C● 11 Tou“ t oin∞

同到 出ｍ

5 Frun a VoO●

６０７０ ０４ １ ７ １１１１” ２２２２”２

Ren●

a So"‐ SeiM● o Rol山 lu腱

20 Lont"PL20,L 26К ●n● Rod● u口 nt

ll

GorenJska― もko巧 a Loka 121 and on Saturday dll noon.1lhcre's an SI〔

B

1lnprcssive is Honnan lHouse at No 2 with

Bankabrmch with anATM at Kapucinskitrg

bits of frescoes of St Christopher and of a

3 in the same building as the Nama depart―

warrlo■

ment stol℃ .Itis open on weekdays only frol■

The formertown ha‖ 江 No 35 is remTkableお r its threc‐ storey Gothic court‐ y=d and the 17th century frescoes on its facade,Martin House tt No 261eans on part

Post&Communications The post office,

of the。 ld town wal.■ has a wOOden lst

open on wcckdays frorn 7 anlto 7 pm and on

ioor,a late lGotlic POrtal and a vaulted entancc hall.The piague pi‖ ar erected in

Saturday tili noon,is just west of the bus station betwcen the footbridge and Capuchin Bridge at Kapucinski trg 9.

■rave:Agency Kompas(● 624027)hasそ m ′ ransturist hotel at office next to the 【 apucinski trg 8.It is open weekdays frorn

the slquarc in 1751 has recen■ y becn reno‐ vaじ d. Klobovsova ulica,a narrow street west of

I《

HOman House,lcads b Loka Castle and the remains of Kranceli￢ower. Spodniitrg Ю the e¨ t of Mestnittg was

9 anlto 7 prll and on Saturday till noon.

where the poorer folk lived in theヽ 4iddle

old Town

Ages;afterthe devastaung ire of 1698,rnost Ofthein couldn'ta賢 lord to rebuild thc square sO the houses remttned two‐ storey and rela‐

I｀

Palts ofttc Parish Church of St James in cankttev trg date bκ k to the 13th centu弔 but its most inlportant elennents― the nave,

ively modest.Ofinterest■ the northem end

the presbytery with star vaulthg(1524)ald the t」 l belltower(1532)― were added over

a No 2 is tte 16th century granary(katta), where the town's grain stores,collected as taxes,we“ Once kcPt・ It now cont」 ns a pub

the nextthree centuries.C)n either side ofthe

ald winery,a bank and the France Miheilё

choir a`e dtars made of black m:rble that

Ga‖ eiV,With the works ofthe artist bom in

weR〕 dcsigned in about 1700.These arc vcry

nearbyヽ /irmaSc lll 1907 (opcn'Tucsday to Sunday"om noo■ わ 5 pm).The Spital

unusual for a tinle and place when baroquc‐

style gilded wood and gypsum were allthc

ChurCh tt SpOdnii trg 9 haS an Opulent

rage. On the vaulted ceiling are bosses shOwing po■ raits of the iFreising bishops,

baoquc gold dtar.The church was built in 1720そ u・ ound the town's alinshouse,and the p。 。 rlived in the cells Ofthe cOurけ ard bund_

saints,workers with shears andablacksnuth, who probably contributed handsorncly to the church.1ヽ vol crcscent nloons in the presby‐ terv are rcminders ofthe Turkish presencc in Sko巧 a Loka.The dozen or so modernlamps and the baptisnlal font were designedby Joをc Pleё nik.

Opposite the church's man entrance on

ing behind.

Loka Castle T'he town castic, which looks down over ζkola Loka"om a grassy ll west of Mestni trg■ Grttkapot 13,was buntin the 13th century but extensively renovated after

′

]oday it houscs the Loka

the sOuth side is the priest's House,pl額 t of a fortiied aristocratic lnanor house built in

thc eanhquake.

the late 16th ccntury. 13elow thc rounded

the best ethnographical collcctions in

projection on the comer ac strange consoles

Slovcnia.

of aninlal heads. 'I｀

hc colourful 16th century burgher

houses on Mestnitrg,rebuilt after that terri‐

blc carthquake in 1511,have calmed the town the nicknaine`Painted Loka'.All■ ost every onc is of histoncal and architectural lmpo■ ―

ance,and plaques in English and Slovene explain their signiAcance.Among the more

Museum(Loこ kl

Muzc」 ),Which has one of

The Teaaound SkolaLoka wぉ famous brits smiths and lace‐ mlよ ers,and ttere ae lots of ornate guild chcsts on display.The colpies of thc 15tll century frescoes from the

churches at(::mgrob and Suha(see Around Sko巧 a Loka)in thc corridors aκ much clearer than inost ofthe ongmas“ siル .Have a good look atthese belore you nlake the trip

００コｍＺ﹂のス＞

8.3o ain tili n00n and ioln 2 to 5 pm.

122 GorenJska― も kolaLoka aierthe old■。wn。 「nle stauc on thc

― and don't iniss the spectacular Goiden

sc■ led

Altars uよ ien froni achurch des廿 oved dunng WWIIin Dl・ attp“ ,north― wettofSkolaLoka

bridgcis ofStJohn Neponnucen,aBohenllan prelate who was marty“ d in the 14th century

く Ｙ Ｏ つＺ 回 匡 ０ ０

・I'he Loka Museunl is open dally,except Monday,← om Ap lto Octoberfron19 am to 5pm.Dunng the rest of■ e yeait's open on Saturday and Sunday only.Entry is 350/250

Praguc,the city wheR)executioncrs usually favoured windows. A dry goodsimark(試 is held on Mcstnitrg

SIr for adults/childrcn or400/300 SITifyou

md CanktteV trg Onthe SeCOndWCdnCSday

want a guided toui

of cvcry nlonth.

by being thrown iom Charics Bndge in

Activitles

The SkolaLoka Hills to the west,al aca of slに ep siopes,decP Valleys and ravines,is an excellent area for day-long walks Or hikes Of a longer duradon and tllere are sevcral huts

with accommodadon in ttc a・ca.BcfOre you sel out,buy a copv ｀ofthe l:50,00()hiking

わユοみ Orり α ″ sた ο″ ri♭ ο けら mapぶ λ 予

(Sk。 巧a IЮ ka

and CerknO HillS)押

」 lable

from thc tourist ofnce for 1070 SIT,and ask the tounst ofice for a copy ofits Cヵ にg“οみ― P′α ″κα‐ κ″ :Z″ α Gο

English.

Combs made from catle andほ ms'hOrns are on displayin the Loka Museum.

Clther Sights

The 18th century lCapuch:n rrionastery west of thc bus station at Kapucinski trg 2 haS a DnCeleSS ilbrarV Of medieVal inanu‐

scripts,includingmcsbfα

Lο

Jο

″,a

processiond with dramatic eleinents,■ "Pa∬ om around 1720.The libl● ry cal be visited by Or arrangelment.(contactthe tounst。 Or the monastery directly(● 620970). p

lrlice

The stone Capuchin Bridge leading froin

the monastry's Church of St Anne(1710) dates from the 14tll century and is an excel‐

lcnt van愴 gc point for thc 01d Town ald castle as wcll as the

vcr with its deep gorge,

dams,abandoncd mills and 18th century bar‐ racks.The area nOrth‐ west Of the bridge is

called Novi Svet(Newヽ ス orid)becauseit was

α hihng pamphlet in “

One of thc c`siest trips is to Lubnik,a 1025m peak north― west of me 01d Town, which can be rcached on fOOtin twO hOurs via Ⅵ nc● je orthecぉ deruins nearCabЮ vo. Sta■ the w」 k iom Klobovsova ulica in Mestni trg.A mountain hut nearthe suminit calcd Dο″″αL“ b″ Jた1`(● 620 501 or● 631 453)hぉ 18 beds mdiso“ n ddly frOmApril to Decel■ ber and at the weckend■ om January to March. A hike to 1562m Blegoこ falther west would be inuch ino薫 〕demanding,butit only

takes about血

c hours frOm HOtavije,a

Village a COuDle “ Of ki10rnetrCS frOnl(〕

Orenia

VaSふ d∝ ce:siblebybusfЮ mSblaLoЙ

.

Thet a・ e twO huts in the area.κ οdα α B々 gο ぶ (● 620 667 or mob■ c● 0609‐ 614 “ 587)has“ 61 beds and is open dally frOm June tO Septenlber and at weckends in May and OCtOben Zα ッ ι 麟′″αJ`ル πιЙ (● 681240), about 2km to thc“ south‐ west,has 20 beds and iS Open at weckends only from Novcm“ rto April.If you dOn't wantto hikc an the way tO Blegoも ,thec's thc eight‐ bed Dο ′ ,α S′ aヴ た ,(● 681662),which is less than“3km from HOtavlje.It's Only open■ weckendsin

surnmer though.

Go“ niska― も ko巧 a

lЮ ka

123

to the east, is a very popular spot with Lokals.Dishes aコ e simplebuttasw aldinex‐ pensivc.Plevna is open from Wiednesday to Sunday from noon to ll prn. It closes in August. The″ ο α″in histOnc」 H01nan HOuse a Mcstni trg “ 2 is essentially a pub and a caf6

Saturday and Sunday only in spnng and

but serves pizza and salads too.In warm

autun■ 1,with ive rooms and 16 beds,or at

weathet tables are set out on Mestni tirg

688032)in the village ル ,7″ み0“ S′ of Zapκ vd.'V10J(1●

under the giant linden trees.Hoinan is open daly i11 1l pin.■ here's more pizzaavallable 江theLο ″′ rg■ SpodnJitrg 33.It's open■ 9 an to 10 pin daly. κ´ ο″α.in an old town house at Mcstnitrg

The ski centtc at Stari Vrh(1217m).12kin

Specia:Events A music fesiv」 caled Pod Holnanovo Lipo

om

takes place under the big linden treesin front

32,is iebestrestaurmtin SblaIЮ ka,with

of Hornan House on Mestnitrg every IFri(lay evening in July and August.

tasteful atwork on thc walis,■ owers on the table,friendly service and reasonably priced

meds.Itis open ddly frol■ 10 am to 10 pm P:aces to Stay S“ ′ ″鵞 cainp siに (雪 627α )2)in Drago‐ `′ ёaina. 1lkrn to thc east, is the closcst

cainpinggroundtoSko3aLoka.Itis situaed between two small lakcs and has a nudist

beach.S11lednik,open i"om May to nlid― Octobet cha・ ges 720 SIr per person per night.

(9 pm ttthe Weekend)・ rα ″″ツ αιJ`Srα れdb On ThCκ ″′ =eメ `gα Kapucinsk trg across from thc bus smtion; I'hursdav and the′ η α″ た `ris hcld on'ruesdav.′ saturdav inornings on s。 lsika ulica. ・rhe 〃″滋 ζ ttmttetatも olska ulica 2 is open

weckdays frorn 8 anlto noon and 3 to 7 prn and on Saturday inorning.

sk。 巧a lЮ ka iS nOt OVeny endOwed with

′ Placcs t。 lay your weaぅ head.・ rhe tOunst α″ ′ りο s,lncluding ofEce can organisc′ ガν “ DM25 one■ GraJska pot 8(● 620509)for to DM35 per person,but it has a very sholl

list.There are 10ts Ofノ a″ πヵο s`s with accoininodation but inost are“around Potane,13km to he south‐ west. Zο ム た α(●

620986),a`l

ni―

hotcl'in the

Entertainlmlent

Skola Loka has a numbcr ofplcasant pubs including L″ ′ ,ca at BlaZeva ulica 10 and P″ ′ ルrjみ 。′,built intO part Of the defence walls “ Gate■ Mestni trg 24.They are at Poljane usualy open daly till about ll pm.′ nleに 's a pleasant wine and beer ce■ ar called]【 ぶ dα lα

in the oldtowngranay atSpodniitrg2 open

suburb of Vincar」 e(house lヽ Io 15)about a

dll rnidnight(8 pm on Sunday).

10mett west Ofthe bus sm10n,has ЮOms wi● showers for about DM35 per person. ■le 48-room rrα ″s″ ′ おr(● 624026;ね x

Getting The:疇

&Away

624096)江

Count on atleast hourly buses to Kranj and Liubliana but otheri″ ise bus service froin

wi■ l breakfast and showcr arc 5710 SIT,

SkolaLokaisonly adequate.Other destina― tions include:Bled via Radovljica(one bus

doubles 8620 Srr.

a day),Cerkno(one to threc),Nova Corica

Kapucinstt trg 9 is grey,tall, depressing and relatively expensive.Singles

Piaces to Eat There's a sι Fsι ″ι ε

floor of the Fヽ

/α

s′ α ″″ ″on the 2nd `″ “ ″α department store at

Kapucinski trg l opposit the post ofEce; ″α,a`gallery

enter frorn iClesta′ Ihicev.P′

`ッ

restaurant'at K【 idriё eva cesta 16 about 80C)m

(OnC at the weekend),Piran(OnC fr01■ latC June O September),SOriCa(10ur tO SeVen), SO Ska Planina(tW。 江 the WeCkend),Zali Log(■ ve),ZelezniL and Zi (six to 10). Sko巧 a Loka cm be c¨ hed by up b 15 trains a day from巧 ubljana(20km;20 mnutes)via Medvode. An equai nunnber

００ ■ｍ２﹂∽バ＞

wctt ofSko巧 a Loka,is situated at an ditude of 1200■ l and covers 65 hectそ u・es of ski slopes and 3kmoftrals.■ lereな eお ur T‐ bar tOws and achalrlli.Accommlodation hcrc is at the κοぬ ″αSrα ″″ 路力 (● 688∞ 7), winter ald on open dttly in sumΠ ler and “

124 Go“ 刊ska― Around Sko巧 a Loka continue on to Kranj,Radovuica,:Lescc―

course, is darnrlation ― vividly llustrated

Bled and Jesenice(44km; 50 minutes).

with souls bcing swa1lowed wholc by a

About 10ofthesecrossthebordcrlorVillach

demon.On the south w」 l thet's a largc

in Aust・ la.

fresco of St Ch

stopher iOm the sanc era. The intenorofthe chuκ h,which was built

くＹＯ﹁Ｚ口〓００

and inodined bet、 veen the 14th and 17th

Getting Around vccn thc train

ccnturies,cOntains mOre nledieval nrescOes

Kapucinski trg. You can order a taxi on

on the north wall as well asthe largest gnded 」tar in S10VCnia,built by Ju● SkTnOS in

Local buses make the run be●

′ statiOn in rrata and the bus statiOn On

'622195.Vielospo■ atiBlaZeva ulca2 rents lllountain bikcs and bicycles. It is Open wcckdaysfrom 9 am lllnoon and 4 Ю 7 Pm l口

′

1652. he spectacular organ was nlade rOund me sametime.The stellT.vauling of I｀

and On samrday morning.

κd,bluc and yellow,has a nulnber of bosses po■ lraying

AROUND SKOFJA LOKA

the Virgin Mary,the Bishops ofF'reising and a inan on a horse who was probably a bene‐

Suha

thC preSbytCry,painted in light

facto■

The 15th century lChurch of St John the

The pcople at the house(No 10)nearest

station in Skofia Loka, is unexcep■ onal

｀ the church hold thc keys. ylou can eat at Gο s″ ′ ″aC翔 :g“ ο♭誠 housc No 13,which is

except for the presbytery wllich has an inte―

open every day,exceptや Viednesday,ti11

rior coinpletely covered with anlazing frescoes by Jeme」 of Loka.The paindngs

prn,and thenD is accornrnodaiOn and horses for rent at the four― ■ oorn P′ Jlイ larた f`■■ n― housc(‐ 631626)江 house No 5. “

BaDtiSt at Suha.abOut 2.5knl east ofthe bus

on the vaults show scenes frorn the life of C〕 hrist,thc corona」 on of Mary and various

1 1

C'rngrob is easilv accessiblc on foOt Or bv

Aposties.Thc pancls below dcpict thc nvc

bicyc15鍋 m Sko島 a Loka via GrohttevЬ

WiSe and fiVeお 0■ Sh VirginS(thC latterお rgOt

naseljc,which runs n。

to I)ut oil in their lanlps and were thus excluded frorn the wedding celebratiOns,

and the Capuchin monascry.An dtcnladve

according to Christ's parable reported in the ・ (】 ospel of St Matthew).Inside the`■ ch is a frightening scene from tlle Last Judgrnent. If the churcll ls locked, request the lkey

■h nrom

cesta Tacev

is to take the bus bound fOr Iく ranJ,get Off at

the village of Dorfbtte and w」 k west for about l.5knl.

KRANJ ・ ′Op

36,7(り

。α″αε αι θ6イ ・ ρOS′ CO``イ (χ り `●

'om right the housc at enter No 45,the building on thc as you Suhairst village and about

Situatcd at the fool of the Kaninik― SavinJa

150rn beyond the church.

Alps with tlle snowcapped peak of Storを iё (21 32rn)and others loomng tO the north, Kra」 is Siovenia's burth lagest and mOst induS aliSCd Ciり WithitSfalrShTe Ofunem‐ p10yment and grafiti(One faVOunte iS the ubiquitous`KralJSterdain').But thc casud

Crngrob The Church of the Annunciation at Crngrob,about 4km north ofも

ko巧 a Loka,

has one of the nlost priceless frescocs in Slovenia. Iン ook lor it on tllo outside wall under a 19th century portico nearthe church CntranCe・ Called Holy Sunday(SVeta

Nedelja)and produced in the wOrkshOp Of Johannes dc Laibaco(John of Ljubtana)in 1470, it exPlains in pictures what goOd ChriStians do on Sunday(pray,go to Mass, hClp the SiCk)and What they dO″ οr dO (garnble,d nk,play bowis Or ight).The consequencc Of doing any of the latter, of

travelcr wouldn't have tO know anything about」 l that.The attractivc()ld Town, sitting on an escarprnent above tlle conflu‐ ence ofthe Sava and Iく

okra l■

vers that barely

measures lknl by 250■ 1,contains everything of interest in KlranJ・

History

A secondary ROman road linking Emona (Liubljana)and Ⅵrunum(ne"today's

GorcnJska― Krani 125

Klagenfurt in Austna)ran trough ICanJ

CondnuC nOrth」 Ong I」 ublJanSka CeSta aiCr

until abOut the 5tll century; 100 years later

crOssing the bridge.

the Langobards establiShed abasc here.They

were followed by the c`rly Siavs,Whose

information

large burialgrounds can bc pa.ly seenbclow the■ 00r Ofthe cOrenJskalMuseum. In t“ Hth centtt hnj(hinburg in Gennan)was an iinpo■ ant border strong― hOld ofthe Gernlan F.rankish counts in their

TOurist offices Thc tOu

batdes with the lilunganans, and the town

Irs

gave its nainc tO the entire rcgion― Kranjska (carniola in English).It was」 so an import―

useful if yOu lplan to spend a fhir bit of tiine

ant nlarket and cCClcsiastical ccntr()and,

ing day trips.

l Pnl on Saturday.The ofice stocks thc j′ ′q′ κ´ a″ ゾ& `G″ could be Very j“ οれs(5(Ю S】 T),which E″ ν

t。

お English― language 2)“ ′

lll tllis part of(〕

orcnJSka.It has eight■ lotor―

The Kralj Alpine SOciety(● 225184)is ka cesta 27. at KOr。 さ

statusby the new nllers,the Bavarian Counts

of Andechs.:More wedth caine with the development of iron inining and foundries

Money(3orenJSka Banka has a branch at

and when thc progressive Protestant n10Ve‐

PregernOva ullca 6,Open from 9to ll.30 arn and 2to 5 pm on wcekdays and■ 1l noon on

ment reached GorenJSka,it was cen"cd in 聰 anj. そ 輌 greW faStr a“ rth a V」 Of the rallway in 1870 and is holnc to rnuch of Slovenia's tcxtile illduSti〕 ′and lskra, the as the electrical aI)pliance cOrnpally. As ,″ casc in the Middle Ages,Kranj is knownお r its trade and industrial fairs.

Saturday.The mainbranch is onBleiwcisoVa cesta near the tounst ofFicc.SKI;IBanka in thc ccina hOtel buildmg at Koroも ka cesta 5

has an ATM andis Open weckdaysfroin 8.30 an till noon and 2 to 5 pm.

POst&commlunications The inan post OfiCC in【 ani iS SeVerd hundrCd metreS

Orientation Kra可 's01d Town is essentidly thec"des― tnan streets running north tO SOuth.The rnaュ One tЮ gins as Presel・ nOva ulica at Mals廿

n ov

trg md changesits name tO CmkttCVa uliCa 誠 Glavni trg,thc inain Squarc and lnarket placc in incdievd tiincs.CankarJeva ulica ends, 1lke cvery1ling clse, at P'ungert, the `Land's End'at tllc tip of the proコ nontory.

`New KranJ'Spreadsin every direction but especidly no■ hward to Zl江 o Polje and to

ulica 8.A much morc convcnlent branch is at PoStna ulica4 east ofGlavnitrg.Itis open weekdaysfrom7 aln to 7 p■ l andon Saturday dll noon.

Trave:Agency KOmpas(● 224100)at thc c“ ina hOt1 0pens wcekdays from 8 am to 7 pnl and till noon on Saturday.

Bookshop Mladinska Knjiga■

MdstЮ v

is

trg l has inaps as well as Englsh-language guides and bOOks.Itis open frorn 8 anl to 7

buss● tion is“ out ω Om north of

pm on weckdays and ill noon on Saturday.

the sOuth_cast to Planina. E;rnik arpo 15kln south‐ east of Iく

Kr珂 's

nOrth_cast Of the bus station at D}raを goさ ka

Maistrov trg on Stoζ

ranJ・

iё

eva ulica.The traln

station lies below theく )ld'Ibwn to thc West, On the l■ ght bank ofthe Sava.′1lo reach the

VValking・ ■our

Old Town froin the station, follow

Krani byお llowing Pκ るcmova ulica and

Iく

olodvorkskacesta souththeneast,cross the

brldge over thc Sava and Walk up Vodo‐ pivё cva

ulica to the Pleё nik

stairv′ ay. If

you're headcd forthe Jelen or Crcina hotels,

｀

Ylou can sce virtually cverything of notc in

CankarJeva ulica to Punge■ and returning to MalstrOv ttg via T10mSiё eva ulica.Most of the imp。 ■ant sights have plaqucs in English

ald are」 so lnarked with numbeド .Thesc

００コｍ２﹂リバ＞

wittn 200 yeas,陽 anj was grmed town

st ofncc(● 211

kacesta29 is open 361;fax 221 880)at KOr。 こ fion1 7.30 am to 7 pm on weekdays and 9 ain

126 GorenJska― KranJ

く Ｖ ∽ つＺ Ш 匡 ０ ０

灘 7鶏 )

PLACE8■ 0 3TAV

e cdm臓 :=:o"“ O Jobn Hd●

“ :

”▼

PLACES TO EAT

7 0bbt綸 .So“ISo,vi∞

10 Kokoc(3●

絆一 浚 ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨

16日 2oH● Rom●

“ " 210o● u随 象● 叫

r

“

OTHER

山           ”  わ ｏ に Ю

２ ３ ４ ５ ０  １ ２３４５   ７ ０ ０ ” ″ ４“  ″   “ ０ ∞ 釧 ”２ １ １１１１ １ １ １ ２

l Bl“ S● :on

&Muloum Mhnba C●

Krani

R麒 0輛

“ 瞼轟d " い中 峰 Mu"um ● loin Caatb “ Chu:● "01:● l● fSt αm“ v“ ●

Lap晦 R麒

Mo… "!●

0■ ●●

chu:u,。 ,鮨 Hdソ

RooaV

"a

日oO漱 Sロロ田● 目● D●彙 o中● ￨■ Ca“ "e Ch崎 "x"■ T口 in S● 薇

"

(〕

orenJska― IKranJ 127

corrcspond to the rnap included with the α″ &f`S3″ j″ ″エ 物 ′ お′G“ ″ιげ κ´ “ Maistrov trg was the siじ of the upper town gatcs in the 15th century and was the

tursby L● ze Dolinar(1893-1970)一 he did

mOst vulnerあ le pa■ of Kranj;the StCep Kokra Canyon proにcじ d the town on the

ong thc histOry and lolk art collections.A eye_cac ng bitt ald bobs lying aound is a large porcelain stove toppcd with a Turk's

S10venski trg,opposite the attractive Gylm‐

n211a(1898)and the Creina hotcl―

and

mrbaned head, an einbroidered sheepskin

The Spital Tloヽ ″er,one of scven along the

coatcalled aた ο λand achild'stoy ofa devil

wal,fOrins part Of a shop at Malstov trg 3. The unusual ArtI)eco building with the tlree statucs facing the square to the nolth is the foriner stara Poこ ta hotel builtin the 1930s. Preこ eren House(PregCrnOVa Higa)at

sharpening a gossip'st()nguc on a grindstone `“

Presernova ulica 7 was horne to the poct

(a COmmOn mOtifin S10Venian fOk an ald one that always inakes ine wonder whether Or nOt s10vencs like a bit of gossip)。 「Fhc nluseum keeps thc salnc hours as PreSercn I‐

Iouse.

France Pregeren(180049)お r ielお ttwO

Glavni trg's pride ald joy,though,iS the

years of his life, and hc died in the fК )nt bedrOOm.■ he preこ eren Memoriai Museum contalncd in ive roonls here is deVOtedtoは s

church of St Cant:anus(Sveti Kancijan),

lifc ald work but,sadl■

the cxplanatory

notes next to llls lettcrs,dianes and inanu―

scrlpts arc in S10venc only. F.rorn May to septmbet the inuseunl is open′ ruesday tO

which was bunt OntO part Of an Older church starting in about 1400.Itis the best exarnple of a h」 i church― onc with navc and dsics of equal height― in Slovenia and was the model fOr many Others.There are solne 15th

Friday frOm lo anltill noon and ilon1 5 to 7

century frescoes of angels with inusical insmrnents on thc stellar vaulting of the

pm.()n Saturday and Sunday it opens in the

nave.′rhe Mount ofC)lives relief in the 2rch

nlorning only.I)uring the rest ofthe ycar the

abOve the inain pOrtalis wOnh a look,as is

hours are thc sarne, cxcept the rnuseuin opens in the aftcrn。 。n fronl 'rucsday tO

the modem alta:designed by lvan Viurnik

day frorn 4 to 6 pm. The 200/100 SIT admission cha・ ge for adults/child“ ■」lows entry to the CoК ttska Muscum as wen.

Bc10w the no■ hern side of the church there are moκ old boncs iom early Slav

P)reSeren is burled in the panSh Ceコ netery,

sOuth wall is a lapldary Of inedieval tomb―

nOw called Preも eren Grove (PreSernov G可 ),あ out 5∞ m to th north.

stoncs and nearby the Fountain of St John Nepo)mucen,with a stone statue ofthe 14th century Bohenuan ma■ yr complete with a

F

G:avnitrg is a“ autif1l squa・ e of Gothic and Renittssance bulldings;the ones on the western side with their painted fa9ades, vaulted hallways and a・ ched cou■ ya・ ds劉 ,c maste,ieces.The 16山 centuワ One(actudly ο″′s as they were forinerly two houses 。ined tOgether)opposite■ Glavnitrg 4 was 」 Oncc the town h狙 1.Today it contalns thc

Goreniska Museum. Below the■ oor of the vaulted vestibulc, Siavic tombs,om tte 9th md 10th centu― nes can be secn drough glass panels.'I｀

he

(1884‐ 1971).

graves and a medicv」 ossuary.On the

doleful looking octopus.

Thc P博

n TheatЮ

is

κЮssthe plaza

at Glavni`e“ trg 6.Thc portico near thc Preこ eren

Monument(showing a rather

rugged-looking and heroic Dr France)was designed by Jo乏 c Pleё nik in the early 1950s.

Walk down Calkajcva ulica and you'll passthe Church ofthe Ho:y Rosary,built in the 16th century and a Protesttrit sanctu‐

aly dunng thc Rcforination.The church was `attacked'by neo― (3othic restorers in 1892

inuseunl's upper ioors contain a lovely

and`so renovated that it is of little import―

Renalssalcc Great Ha‖ with carved wooden

ance artistic」 ly or histonc」 ly',we ae told

dOOS and Ce■ ing(it iS nOW uSed for CiVil

on the outside.lBcsidethechurcharearcades, a fOuntain and a staircase dcsigncd in the

Wedding CeremOniCS),aWful brOnZe SCulp‐

００”ｍ２﹂∽バ＞

casじm side and thick wdis did the trick on the W,St from Pungert as far as the square.

the rcvolutionary ones still standing in

128 Go“ 刊ska― Kranj late 1950s by Pleё nik to givc KralJ a monu―

mentad enttancc up fromtheSavaRiver This was where the lowertown gats oncc stood. Pungert is the end ofthe line fOr the c)ld Ilown.Ilcre you'1l find another old church,

′

cvent in Bohl■ (see Specid Events in饉 江 secdon).Jczersko,on the Ausむ ian border 28km no h‐ eぉ t of Krmj and easily“ ccs― sible by cI田・or bus, was a pOpul`r health

rcsortbefore WⅡ .'Ibday itis an unspoiled

くＶ∽﹁Ｚ題匡００

sometlrnes called the Plague Church,built

area in the shadow of(G}rintovec with a

dunng a tilne of pestilence in the 1470s.It contalns some ilnp。 ■ant anwOrk,including ap」 nting dedicaed Ю thethte`intcК cssOrs

delightful Alpine lake,hiking trans,old farm―

aganst the plague'― Sts Rok,Fabian and Sebastian― by the Aus"ial bl町 oquc artist

Manin Johann Kremser‐ Schmidt(17181801).It is now used by Serbia1 0rthodox Chrisdans.A■ lrec‐ storey defence to'wer, the only one in Kranj endrely preserwed,wぉ ′ built in the 16th century. here is a caf6gallcry on thc ground n。 。. i「

If you netum to the Church of dle Holy Rosary and head nolth on'Ibnll`iё eva uuca, you'1l come to a restored section ofthe to、 ″n wa‖ and Khisistein Cas‖ e at No 44.Pat of this stronghold was bu」 t dunng the Turkish invasions ofthe 15th century but nlosdy it's Renassalce.Today its glassed‐ in aК ades and upper■ oors house the offices ofseveral culturd instituじ

s.

Activities The Kiran」 Sport Ccntre(1'211 176)at Partizanska cesta 37,about l.5knl noih― cast

of Malstov trg,has tenlus couns and both a covered and outdoor swinlming p。 。1.

A veiv easv dcstin江 lon for a wak is

Smarietna Gora,a夕 13m hil1 3km to ttc

houses and inountain huts.A good hiking map brthis meais he l:50,000 Kα ″ッα″セ one缶 om PZS. P:aces to Stay The tounst ofice can aralge′ ″ ι ツαた ´ :S Oο ″ for about I)M25 per PCrson,but nlost are in

the boring and distant(5 to 7knl)housing estates to the noll:h or nortll‐ cast.

For wh■ it is,the J`″ ″hotel(● 211466; fax 211 857),a nin‐ down,three‐ storey pne at巧 ubjanskacesta l,お p“ ty p cey:smglesノ

dOubles/triples with shower cost 4550/ 6100/6750 Srr. Just opposite atICoroζ ka cesta 5,the brick‐ ald‐ wood

C″ j″α hotl(● 224550;fax 222 483)with 89 rooins is vastly sul℃ rior in comfort and style at a p

fast″ e

cH」 Istttt

penOd.On top of

thc hill is the reconstructed Church of St

Margaret and the Bellevuc hoに 1.The views from herc of Kr呵 ,the Alps and tte Sava River are astonishing; on a clear day yOu

DM75to DM95,doubles DMlCЮ

to

E)M140.Most rooms have TV and direct‐ ′ dial telephOnes. 「 here's a winc cellar ′ ″οセス 協)in thc bascment opcn Monday tO Saturday from noon to ll pm. (ツ

no■ h― west of the 01d Town,where a fOr

stood duringぬ

ce;this is tte place

for Austrian business people,tour groups hcaded for the Alps ald aldine crews who dOn't Wantto ttavel dithe wtt Ю Liubtana fro■ l Bmik.Singles with shower and break―

The β′ ′ ′ ′hotel(● 311211:fax312 122)

`ッ “ atop Smaljetna Gora(sce Activities)has 31

beds md a very pleぉ ant restaurant open 9 ain tili nlidnight(to 2 ani F:iday and Saturday).

Piaces to Eat

might beめ lctosceBledandLiublmale∝ h

The CheapeSt pl¨

some 30kin away in oppOsite dircctions.

(:)′

Speciai Events

on lKoroζka cesta.IFor 450 SIr you get half a

lt may sound like a bit of a schlep butifyou happcn to be in Kranjin midJulゝ follow the nockstoJezersk。 1。 rthe annual shephcrds,

chicken with pOセ ltOes or macaroni with sOコ ne so■ ofinettand sdad.It'solχ n w∝ ,kdays fr。 ln 8 am to 7 prn and d11 l pm on Saturday.

B江 1(OVё aiSki Bd).It's a day and cvening Of blk muSiC,danCing md d nkngを α″

` (brandy)一 an oVine alternative to the bovine

e bramed in Krmjisthe

οι s sclf‐ service restaurant in the north‐ “ west corner of the C10bus departinent stOre

P′ 衣:ι ″ ′ αRο ″α″οat

Tavё a]eva ulica 31

no■ h― cast of thc post office,servcs a nOvcl triurnvirate: pizza, pasta and `dishes lnade

STⅣ E FALLON

STEVE MLЮ N

STEVE FALLON

A

B

C

A: ヽ Vayside shrine,Trg Kropa,

KЮ pa,Goreniska B: Medievalfresco in Bohini's Church Of st John the Baptist,Goreniska

C Looking across Lake:31ed to the lsland Church,Bled Castle and

Mt Sto!(2236m),Goreniska

摯 一 〓〓 STEVE FALLON

Sheep graZing nearthe Vrも

iё

Pass in the Julian Alps,Goreniska

GorenJska― Around KranJ 129

fronl holserneat'.It's open fronl 10 ain to 10

ovliica. Ratcё c― Planica via Kraniska Gora.

pm(from 4 pm on Sunday).

ka,′ rrziё and viOdice. skofJa Iン 。

丞[ι たιc,a ca16 at Mialstrov trg 13 and open Monday to SalLirday til1 7 pnl,has dccent sandwiches and s」 ads while the stick― to― ′ : the‐ ■bs Slovenian dishes at Gο s`j"α S′ α Iα たr at Glavnitrg 16 will keep you going う orlonger than you'd think. “

You can dsoreach Bぶ elj viaPreddvors timeS a day,BOhinJSka BiStriCa(One),BOVeC

И7∫ ′ ″at CankarJeva ulica l,a combined "ブ caf6_restaurant,which serves well prcpared (1,ontinental food with a Slovenian touch and sorne good veget:I■ an dishes;try the cheese

bus a day in July and August),BrezJe(one e), from iMIay to Septcmber),Jezersko(f

Kalnnik(two),KrOpa(Onc Ortwo),Manbor (Onc at weekends),NovoMc飩 o(one ortwo), vinica(One a weekends)and Zali Log(on Sundり fromMり tOSep“ mber)Therc'sabus bvttattin m Cro■ iaon Saturday andSundaメ

bmlHji(dumplingS).TheCaf6iSO"nd」 lyfbm

1lrain tJp to 15 tralns a day pass through

9 anl till nlldnight,the restaurant fronl noon.

KranJ frOm巧 ub」 響 a(29km;30 minutes)

The largc″

`rた ``sclling fruit and vcgeta‐ bles north― east ofthe Church ofSt Cantianus

is open fro■ 1 6 anlto 6 pnl frOFn inid― Mそ Ich t。

lnid-Octoberandfrom7 am to 3 pm dunng

via Medvode and Sk01a Loka.They carry on to Radovり ca,Lescc― Bled and Jescnice (35km;40 minutes),where about 10 cross illach in Aust・ ia. the bOrder fOrヽ ′

the rest of the year.

Entertainlnent ″ P″ ぶι″″7物 ′

Getting Around Local buses inake the mm from the Lain (●

222701)at Glavni trg

`α

6 is very acuve,staging four plays wiぬ

up

to 200 perfbrmances a ye`r.Concerts― both classical and popular― are held in thc court

station to thc bus tenllinus on Sto`iё cvaulica if you don't fecl llke walking.1ピ iou can ring

aloca taxi on● 2261(Ю

Valy(●

.

245∞ 7)a Cesta na Brdo 52,

yard of Khisistein Castic in suinmer and

north― cast of the()ld Tow■ ,rents bikcs for

sometimes at the Church of St Cantianus

1000S11｀ a day.

du

ng the yea」 L

Maistrov trg and Prcζ crnova ulica are hometo a numberofpleasantpubs and caf6s. (:)ne of thc rnore unusual oncs is」 (lα ッ たα, a lively caf6‐ bar‐ gallery up the stairs at Maistrov trg 8.Itis opcn fron1 8 or 9 anl till

■lidnight Monday to Saturday andfron1 6prn on Sunday_ル ″′ zjε α,a lovelyた αッ α″a in the basernent of a 16th century toll housc at Tavё arjeva ulica 35,isjustthe place to dax

in Kratt on a warm aftemoon.■ 1leЮ 's live rnuslc on rhursday and Sunday from 6 pnl. j″ ′ ′″′ Another dcccnt pub is Bα ′

Pregernova ulica 2.

`t at

The 7)1`zο r disco atthe Creina hotel caters to a mature and l″ ell heeled set'「 hursday to

AROUND KRANJ

ο dι ●θ 6` ・ a″αε Brdo Calttle Until recently,16th century Brdo Castle at

Predosbe,about 5km no■

h‐ east of Kranj, was for official state guests only.Though it is still inanaged by the Plrotocol Service of

the lRepublic of Slovenia,now anyone can visit or"en stり ,provided hey have the“ sh. ′ rhe castle was 10ng thc propel威 y of the arlStOCratiC and philanthrOpiC ZOヽ

(SOmC―

dmes spcned cois)family,the slovenian equivalentto the Sz6chenyi clan in IIungary. ■has two towers on the northem side,corl―

Saturday froin 9 pm to 4 am.

dors crainined with artwork and a library containing a priceless copy of the Bible tranSlated by PrOteStant rCfOriner Jur」

ng There&Away

Dalm■ in(1547-89).Brdo is surounded by

Ge

Bmik airpOn,cerkte,JeSeniCe,巧 ubbana,

lovely parkland and a protected 500-hectι re forest.You canfish in oncof lllakes stocked

Medvode,Piran,Preddvo■

with trout,cap and pike(1500 SITper day),

Bus Buscs leavc KranJ for BIcd,BohinJ, Pcdoslje,Rad―

００コｍＺ﹂リバ＞

A favountc place to cat in Kra"is the

via Kranjska Gora and me Vr“ Pass(one

130 Gol℃ nJska― Radovljica play tennis Or llde hOrses fOr l()oo srr per hour(150()SIT for a one― hour lesson).Ⅵ si‐

Radovica(Ratmmsdofin German)was se■ led by the carly Slavs and grew intO an

くＹ∽﹁Ｚ口ＥＯＯ

tos not staying at Brdo may have to pay a

inlportant inarket town by the early 14th

fee of 500 SIT to enterthe park. Accoininodation for lnost people here is

century.V′ ith

68‐ room κο た″ hoti(● 221133;fax 221551),whet ve,run‐ of‐ the‐ min singles

KarnnaGonca,Rdovljicaexpandedandthe

aに ,1)M82

square fOrtined with a wal and deince towcrs.Radovuica's amuencein thelMiddle

誠 the

to I)Ml16 and doublesI)M128 to E)M190, or its sister hotel, the 32-roorn Cabι ′(● /faX Same)nCXt dOOr With SingLS lor I)ヽ 475 to I)M95 and doublesI)ヽ 4114 to

I)M154.()f course if you'rc not `nlost peOple'and are very nush indeed,a lst class SuitC in3ガ οGaS″ Jι (● /faX Same)Can be had

おr

incК

)asedtrade on the nverand

the iron forgeries at ncarby Kropa and town was built around a large rectangular

Ages can be seen in the lovely buildings sti■

lining Linhaltov trg today. Radovljica is an easy day just 6km to the no■ h― wcst.

p from Bled,

DM1833(ora mere DM1078 bra 3d

ClaSS One).S● te gueStS,WhO are St」 l put up here,probably get a discount. l Po●

Strmoi Castle llle 13● ccnm,Strmol Castle(雪 /fax■ Brdo Casde),neな Cerk」 c8km eastofBrdo, is anothcr rnanor housc in the Protocol Service'ssし 、 ble.'Ither3 are not a lot of recre― ational f`xilities here,butifyou wantto live like a count or countess for a day,I])M1078 gets you a suite and DM430 a single roonl.

■1le

tou

sttax is DMl.20.

Krvavec

10輌 ∞

2 Bus Sta● on 3 Touist O“ ∞

:請 胃り 需

ann

● blo Ma“ る認 :鮒瀞

t

9 Ⅵnoloka Sα 」 0● k 10 VidiO Hous● 1l G0811na Lectar 12 Thum Manora

m

「 13蹴 需i熱 t摯寵 15 unha"ov H口 16 MaF卜 louso

l驀概 L騰

m Caf6‐

Pub

°

19Tは in Sta」 on

■le ski ccntc at KⅣ 押ec(● 421 180 or ●222 579in Kmnj),17km Юthe north― cast of Krmj,is one of the mOst pOpul証 (and crowded)in Slovenia.Acable ca=alspOrも you up to the centre at 1450■ l and a dozen ChdrliftS and T― bartows selwe the 25kin of

slopcs and 6knl of cross‐ cOuntry runs. rvavec isalsO an excellentstartingpOintfor

1【

hikes in surnrner to l《 rilka Pianina or

Jezerca,abOut an hOur'sw」 k from the upper statiOn Ofthe cable car.

RADOVLJiCA

ο ご′●θ6イ・ ′ο ∫ rcο ご ιィ2イ θ ・ α″α● ・ ′ρ ′62θ θ Acharming town full ofhisto cd buildings, Radovljlca enjoys an enviabL pOsitiOn ttOp an outcrop 751n above a wide plan c」 led thc distance tO the

Deお la(Country).A sho■

west, two branches Of thc Sava comne together to fOrnl S10venia's longest and nlightiest nvet

Radovl,ica

Gore■ ska― Radovijica 131 orientation

ThecentteofoldRadovljicaisLinhartovtrg, a protcted histonca ald cultunl monument;

19■ Centu CS),the COuntry'S u quC COnt ― bulon to the industっ ′wi■ l me dcvc10pment of the Caniolan grey bCC SP∝ ieS(■ ′お

Ch Of men ″′″ψ ″ ω たα evcrything OfimpOrancein Rdov」 cais on “ a(1734‐ it「 Fhe new town eXtends priinarily nor血 ― like Anton Janζ 'and he 73),who reSeaコ set up a research station in the Karavanke and is con‐

west ofLinhartov trg on KranJSka cesta.The

inOdern beckeeping. And the nluseurn

train station is below the town on Cesta

Svobode.To rcachぬ c squa“ ■om thc train

und sidelに ,d`ビ 。

the wOnd tO be the father Of

ts to doesn'tf」 l to pass on a few`fun f∝ ‐ knOw andに ll'.Did yο ″redise that bces

statiOn,w」 k up steep Kolodvorskaulica and tum ght(eaSt).

can■ ot sec thc colour rcd but go gaga over

information

fronl the 18th and 19th centu

llle tOurist Office(奮 /fax 715 3(Ю )is at

umqueto Slovc

Krttska cesta 13.From May to September

(:}ratefully, everything here is labelled in English and Gcnnan along wiせ l Slovene.

yel10w?The inuseum's collection of illustratedbeChiVepmelS(′α4ノ Sた ′ん

itis Open i″ cekdays from 8 anlt」 i noon and

4 to 7 pm and on Saturday rnorning.I)unng tlle rest of the year itis opcn weekdays frorn

8 arn to 3 pm and on Sattirday monling.

There's an SKB Banka branch with a

ヽis

幼たマリ

es,a "だ folk art

the la・ gettin

the countty.

Thc Beekeeping Museunl has ex"elnely complicated hours but this Πluch is certain: it is always c10sed in Januaty and Febnlary.

From■ ay to Augustitis open daly,except

Cirnis―

linked ATIMI at Gore]Ska 10,open wcekdays only彙 olm 8.30 amtill noon and 2 to 5 pm.About 150m no■ h tt No 16 ofthc same strect is a Gore■ ska Banka open

Monday,from 10 anito l pm and again frorrl 4to 6 p■ 1.In Ma・ ch,Ap l,NOveinber and D)ecembcritis open from 10 arn till noon and

Monday to Friday fron1 8 am to 6 pnland on saturday inorning tili n00n.・ rhc pOst Ofice

Sunday only.'I'he hOurS in SepteFllbCr and

is beside the buS Sta■ On at kaniSkaCeSta l・

Beek“ phg Museum

Viedncsday, Saturday and 3 to 5 p■ l on ヽ

OcЮ ber are Tuesday O Sunday iom 10 am 11l noon and 3 to 5 pm.The entry fec is 3α)/2(Ю SΠ 'lor adultsた hildren.

Though it lnav not sound like a croWd― plcぉ cr,the

Bcekeeping Museum(Cebcl‐

arski Muzc」 )at Linhatov trg l is one ofthe nlost fascinating in Slovenia,an(l thcrc isn't

a whole lot you won't know about things apianan after an hour inside.

The museu:m■ s housed in Thurn Manor, ant public bulld‐ the largest and mostilnpo ing On the historical squ`re and worth alook in itsel■

Thum Manor began lifc aS O■ en‐

burg Castlein the caly Middle Agcs but was rebuilt with a large h」 l on the ground floor

e a■ er the calthqu`恐 【

of 1511.Subsequent

alterations and eXpansions gave it the appearance of a large baroque manor house. The cream― and‐ whiに structule hぉ intcrcst‐

ing rclicfs and stucco wOrk on i"fa9de. The inuscum's exhibits takc a close look

at the history ()f beekeeping in Slovcnia

Bees have p!ayed an integral partin IS!ovenian

(which was■ its mostintnse in the 18th and

agriculture since the 1 6th century.

００ コｍ２Ｌ∽ス＞

ward dong GOrenJska cesta towa・ d Lesce. Radovuica's bus stttion is 5(Ю m nor饉 ―

132 GoEnJska― Radovbica

GorenJska― Radovijica 133 Linhartov Trg Radovljica's main square,nained in honour of Slovenia's ■rst dramatist and llisto an

Activities

Anton Torntt Linhalt(1756-95)who was

KopaliSka cesta and tennis courts end of 】

born here, is lined with painted houses

ncarby. The Sport Riding Centre at Podvin Castle (● 738881)in Moこ nde,about 4kin south― east of R“ ovlica,has horscs av江 1め lc br

′

lutc delight to cxplorc. I'he sad part, howcver, is that you'1l frequendy ind it iammed With CarS・ It hお been Called`thC

nlost hornogeneous old town corc in

Slovenia'and has interesting details at every

suininer near the canlP Site at the nolthcrn

nding individually or Ⅵith an instruct。 .'rhe centre also has a covcrcd hippodrome.

RadOvljica_b`sed TinaRa負

(●

715(Ю 5or

inobile● 0609-646255)offers a nunlber Of

step.

There are seVeral lovely buildings oppo‐

rafing tips on the Sava l)olinka and Sava

site the lBleckecPing Museum, including

BohinJka nvers lasting between one hour

KOman House at No 23 with a baoquc

and ive hOurs and cosing 2700 to 45(Ⅸ )SI「

paining On its iOnt ofSt Florian,the paton

YOu can dso rent two― person caloes for

saint Of fireS(he dOuSeS,nOt SetS,thCl■ )and

27(Ю/4500 SI「 IXlr half day/day.

.

Maii House tt No 24 with a picture of St

Gcorge slaying the dragon.lut the most

Piaces to Stay

impOrtant One is 16th century Sivec House

Radovljica's tiny ca“ ′S'た (雪

at No 22.

next to the public swiinining pool on

715770)is

Renalssancc on the outside and(〕 othicon the inside.・ hc fresco on thc cxteinor shows thc

Kopaligka cesta. It is open from June tO nud_septenlber and cOsts between 600 SIT ｀ and lⅨ Ю sΠ I)cr persOn,with an cxtra 200

Good Samaritan performing his corpor」

SIT charged 3or a tnt.

work of Πlercy;insidc there is a vaulted h」 1 0n thc grOund ioor and a wood― panelled dra、′ ing roon■ with a betaned celling on the irst.The h」 lis now used as a g」 Lry and

equipped)Carnping grOund in S10Venia, esce about 2.5km Sο bι ε(口

Sivec House is an intercsting hybrid― I｀

the drawing room as a wedding hdl.The gallery is open toln 10 am to noon and froln

The largeSt(and SOme Say thC beSt '718006),is in I´

no■ h― westofRadovljica.Situated on asm」

1

lake near a bend Ofthe Sava I)olinka Rivet and the canp site is huge-20 sq hectares―

shady cOurtyard, is the(E:othic Parish

can accOrnmodate up to 1500 people,which thiS DODular DlaCe OftCn dOeS in Surnlner Sobec is oPcn frorn May to Septenlber and costs iom DM12.50 Ю DM14.50 for adulも

Church of St peter,a hall church modelled e after the one in Kranj.The threc po■ als額・ nanlboyant(1。 thic and the sculptures inside

lng on the month.There are」 so b″ ″gaJο ws costing DIM80 a night(DIM65缶 om the ttird

werc done by Angelo Pozzo in 1713.The

night).

building with the arcaded courtyard south of

thechurch isthe pr:est's House.Parts ofthe

Ylou'■ ind lots inore budgct acconunoda‐ tion in nearbv iBIcd butifvou'rc dctcn■ uned

Old town wail can still be secn neaurby.

to stay in ttadOvttca,lhe″ αれcα ル ο″

4 or5 pm to betヽ vcen 6 and 8 pm,dcpending

on the season. East of・:rhurn Manor,in an oddly shaped,

TO the nOrth― west at Linhatov trg 3 is the

17th century Vidiё pro」

House with a comer

ection and colourillly palntcd in red,

ycllow and bluc. Past the city park on

Go“niskaccstaisthefomlerSavingsBank bunding(1906)with a maⅣ ellous mosalc nowering ticc,in seccssiOnist style,dccorat― ing the front.

andI)M10.50tol)Mll forchildren,depend―

｀

pension(●

'714 120),which is a couple of

`

Hlometres nonh of Linh"tov trg■ Grad^ nikova cesta 2,chargcs betwccn 4700 and 5200 SI「 forsmgles with shower and break― fast and 6600 and 7520 SIT for doubles. Radovjca's Only hotel,afour‐ storcy con― cretc b10ck c」 led thc C凛 」Dッο″(奮 715 585;f欲 715878),is at【 anJska cesta 2

０ ０ コ ｍ ２ ﹂∽ バ ン ︲

mOstly fiOrn the 16th century and is an abso―

Thcre's a public swin Πung pool open in

134 Gore■ ska― Kropa oppositethe bus station and thetOuristOficc. Singles and doubles with shOwer and brcak― fast are I)ヽ 460 and】 )ヽ486.The hotel has 60 roorns and a swinlming pool.

lα

cο

′ り6イ ・ ′οsた ο ´ セイ2イ 5 `口

While in Radovica,don't miss the chance to visit ]K■ opa, a delightful little Village

」 Pο ′ ν′ ″hOtel

tucked away in a nそ 颯Юw v」 ley below the lelovica Plateau some 10km to the sOuth―

738881;fax 738 885)in Podvin Castle,

east. KroPa has been a `workllorsc' fOr

If mOney iS n0 0可 eCt,yOu might tteat yourself to a night at the Craグ

くＹＯ﹁Ｚ国匡００

(●

KROPA

p Fθ 25 。α ,“ ・ ′ο

ing on the scason,singles with shower and

centuries, nuning iron ore and harninering outthe nails and decorative wrOughtirOn that can still be seen in rnany parts Of S10venia.

breakfast are 8000 to 9000 SIT while doubles are ll,000 to 12,500 SI・ I Podvin

Today Kropa(CЮ pp in Germal)has tumed its■ tention o scrcws― the Plamen factOry

(:,astle is surrounded by alovcly park and has

is bascd herc― but aitisans continuc their ′ work,clanging a、 ハ ay in the wOrkshop on thc villagc's single street,and thc work oftheir

a rather boxy al劇

east of

about 4knl soutll― Radovljica in the'air village ofMio可 e.Depend―

tennis courts and a popular horse riding centrc.Its restaurant gets high malks.

forebears is cvident in Ornamental street Piaces to Eat E″αis a popular pizzeria atthe(3ralSki I)vor hotel.Gο s′ j′″αLι σ′ αちin yet another histOn―

lanlps shaped like birds and dragons, weather vanes and shuttcrs.

Biacksm:th Mluseum

cal building at Linhanov trg 2,is open every day,cxccpt Tucsday,from ll anl till inid‐

The fascinating conection a me Blacksmith

night.Acrossfrom Thum Manor■ No 26is

Museum(Kovぶ ki lMuzej)at house No 10

L」 ″ 力α″″ッ」 りぁ α″■

traces the history ofiron inining and forging

There'S aSmdlメ

a caf6‐ pub with snacks.

￨“ J′

g′ ″ら α″グツ ′ ル ″α″ た ι ′ in Kropa and nearby Kanlna Gorica in

opposite thc GraJski Dvor hotel.

English,Gernlan and SIovene from the 14th to the carly 20th centuries.Nall manufactur―

Things to Buy 「Γhere's an excellent sclcction Of Slovenian Wines at И″ο″滋″Sο′διた,Linhatov trg 8. It'S Open weekdays from 9 al■ to 7 pm and

ing wasthetown's main industry for most Of tha pe Od,and itis diricult Ю imaginc ttat SO maly di“ Crentけ pDS Of nalS CXiStd,neVer

mind tha they Weκ ali made hc“

.From

on Saturday frorn 8 anlto noon.

giant Ones that held tne pylOns below Venice

Getting There&Away

produced soine 130 vaneties in huge quan‐

tOgether tO li■ le StudS fOr snow boots,Kiropa

Buses leave Radovjica dmost every hali

tities.In Kiropa you did nOt becorne a lnastcr

hOur br Bled and均 ub」 ma.■ ley go hOurly tO BOhinJ( a Bled),KranJ,KranJska Gora

blacksnlith until you could it a horscshoe around an egg― without cracking thc shell.

and】く ropa.(C)ther destinations andtheir dally

The inuseum has working mOdels of

frequencies include: BegunJe na(〕 orenり ‐ forges, a cOuple of rooms showing how Skem(up tO ninC),Bovec via Krattska Gora workers and their fanlilies lived in very and the Vlrt'iё PaSS(OnCbuS adayin surnmer), Cramped quarters(up to 45 people in One BreZ」 e(One),JeSenice

Via Vrba(six),Novo

Mesto(one Ю twO),Podnart(fouo,Sko巧 a Loka(onc),Tirを iё (up to fouo,Vinica(one) and Zagreb in CЮ atia(OnC).

Rdovjicais On he dllinelinkingttub‐ liala“ 8km;50 minutes)wimJesenicc(16km:

20 minuじ s)viaSkolaLokL Kranj andLsce―

BId.UP o 15 tttns a day pぉ s through thc tOWn in cach dircction.About10 ofthe north― bOund OnCS Carl)′

on to Villach in Austrla.

hOuSe)and a Special exhibit devoted to the

WOrk Of JOこ a Be■ once」 (1901‐ 76),who turned out exquisite wrOught― iron gratings, candlesticks, chandeliers and cven rnasks. The inuscuin shOws a fascinating black― and― White dOcunlentary■ lm aboutthe town and itS WOrk prOduCed in thC Very socialist 1950s. It's a real period piece.

The hOuSe itSClf WaS OWned by a 17th century irOnbaron called Iく linar andcOntains

Gorettska― Bled 135 sorne valuable furniture alld paintings.

″t“ ,a Pr′ Jα ′

Arnong the rnost interesing pleces is a 19th century wind― up`jukebox'from BOhemia Ask the friendly caretakerto inscrt one ofthe large perforated rolls and watCh the piano, drums,triangle and cyrnbals make rnusic.

KFOpain hOuSC No 2.

gostilna at the southent end of

BLED

.′ ο ′566イ oα ″a cο ′θ●θ6イ ・

ヽ4由

′イ26θ srcο ′ ′ο

its emerald― green lake,PCture― postcard

hOurs as thc Bcekccping Miuscum in

church on an islct,medicval castle clinging to a roctt clifFand some ofthc higLstpctts

Radovljica(see that section),including

of the Julian Alps and the Karavanke as

winter ciOsure.'I｀ he cntrance charge is 30()/ 200 SIT for adultsノ children.

backdrops,Bled is Slovenia's inost popular

C)ther Sights

swarnung with tourists and oten less than

The UKO forgers'workshop acrOss from

welcorning.Many travellers inake a beelinc fOr the largcr and fa」 ess dcvcloped Lakc BohinJ,26kin Ю the south― wcst.

The Blacksmiぬ Museum kccps the samc

thc museum tt house No 7b is opcn for visits

from 7 am Ю 2 pm on wcckdays and iom 9 ain till noon on Saturday.The artisans sell thelr wares― nonc oftherrl eVen approaching the work of Master Bertonce」 ―江 thc shOp

next dOOr(house No 7a), which keeps the

resO

and its biggest tounst money spinne■

Not surprisingly, it can bc overpriced,

But as is the case with nlany popular des‐

dnations around the world,people co,me in droves― and willcontinuc to do so― because the place,s special.()n a clear day you can

sanlc hours. A:1 18th century furnace called Purgatory

make outlMt Stol(2236m)and Slovenia's highest peak,IMt Triglav(2864m),in thc

Forge(ヽ /igenJ Vice)hcs a short distancc nOnh Of the nluscum ncar the Kroparica,a

distancc and then thc bells start nnging from

fast_nowing stream that once turned the

should visit Blcd too― at lcast for a look.

wheels tllat powered the furnaces for the forges. Close by is the birthplace of the s10venian painter Janez Potoこ nik (1749-

History

1834), whose work can be scen in the

the carly I:ron Age but,as it was far from the

barOque church of St Leonard on thc hill

maln trade routes,the Ronlans gave it short

thc belf,Of the little isiand chulch.You

Blcd was thc site of a Hallstatt setuelment in

缶oln the 7th

tO the east and in iKiarnnlk.Kropa has inany

shrift.MOre impOrtantly,

other lovely old houses,including several

ccntury the carly Siavs― no doubt attacted by the altitude(501m),the mild clim■ e and

aound Trg KFOpa,the man SquaC,WhiCh also has an interesting old waysidc shrine. A medieval smelter ― the so― called Siovenian Furnace― dating from thc 13th

the natural protection afforded by the nloun―

century is at Jarnnik,about 3.5km south of iropa along a tortuously twisting road.

tiny isiand and at a dozcn other sites around

Iく

tans― caine in waves,establishing them― selvcs at Pnstava below the castle,on the tllc lake.:Bled has bccn linked with thc rnyths

There are trals,om Trg Kropa into the

and legendS Of mese people for centⅢ

Jelovica Hllls to thc west,an`rca once riCh in iron ore and tilnber for charcoal.In the early 19th century over 800 charcoal burners wOrked in this area alonc.

particularly thc ancient Slavic goddess 2,iva,

P:aces to Eat There's nO accOmlnodation in iKropa,which isjust as wel1 6 you'd never get any sleep

eS,

the DneStCSS BOgOnlila and the inan WhO loved her,Cioml■ Francc PreSeren gave this relationship new life in his cpic POem κrsr J' Pお bッ ″ιSα ツiCα 物 ″ψ ′ ′れ Sα ツた “ 1111836. '(Bα Around thc turn of the first nlillenniurn,

the lGennan iEmperor ][Ienry II presented

with alithe banging and clanging going on.

Bled Castle and its lands to the Bishops of

αび HOwever,yOu can e誠 江 Gο sr」 Jれ αPr′ κον

Brixen in South Tyrol,who retained sccular control of the area until the carly 19th

Just nOrth Ofthe rnuseum at housc No 30 or

136 GorcnJSka― Bled century when the Habsburgstook it ovet By that imC a lumber OfSm」 l VillageS,inClud― ing Mlino,IZclcё e and Reё ica,had grown up around the lake.

nOrth― WeSt

Ofthe lake and the Zaka Regatta

(:lentte,connects Jesenice to the nolllh with Iova(]orica,Seを ana and ltaly tO the sOuth― west. lヽ

Bled's beauty and its warm waters were well known to mediev」 pigruns who came

information

to pray at the island church;he place inade

￢OuriSt OfriCeS Bled's tourist oficc(‐ 741

it into pHnt in 1689 when Janez Vttkard Valvasor described the lake's therinal SpringS in勤′GJο ヮ げ rみ εり げ Car‐ ″′ ο″, his serninal work`D“ on SIovenian

Cesta Svobode 15.Essentia■ y itis a sOuvenir shop with infOrmadOn,■ laps and guidcs.It

gcography,history and cultuK).But Bled's wcalm was not oully appreciated atthattimc, and in the late 18th century the kccper ofthe castle sc

ously considered draining Lake

122:fax 741 555)is nextto the Park hOtel at

aso docs currency exchange(3%commis― SiOn)and SellS iShing liCenCCS(trOut, grayling)br thc lakc.Askお r the helpml (and frec)English‐ languagc publication B′ 7b“ ″ お′ルル″,α ″ο″.FЮ m Aprll to `グ (:)ctoberthe ofice is open Monday to Satur―

Bled and using the clay to nlake bricks.

Fbrtunately, along calme a Swiss doctor nained Anlold Rikli who saw the lake's,ull

day from 8 a:nto7 pm(to 10 pin in July ald August)and froin 10 am to 6 pnl on Sunday

potendal.In 1855 he opened baths where the casino now stands,taking advantage of thc

ber Ю March thc hours Tc 8 am

springs,thc clean an・ and thc mountain light.

MiOnday to Saturday and noon to 4 pm on

With the Opening Ofthe rdWay frOm ttub―

Sunday.

tana to Tarvisio(Trb2)in 1870,rnore and

An inlPOl“ant ofice to visit if yOu are headed for rみ ′ mOuntain is the T｀ riglav

nlore guests carnc to lBled and the resolll、 vas

(to 10 pm in July and August).FЮ m Novem―

Ю

3 pm

tun1 0fthe century right up tO v√ vrII.In fact,

Nationd Park infOrmatiOn centre(會 741 188)in the Via Rog■ Kidriteva cesta 2 on

under the lく ingdOrn of Scrbs, Croats and

the lakC'S nOrthem shore.It is open from 8

Slovenes,Bled wasthe suinmcrrcsidcnce Of

am to 3 pm on weekdays Only.The staff provide inforinatiOn abOut thc park and

a favountc of wealthy Europeans froni thc

thc l(aradZordを cvi`i, the lピ lugosiav royal family.

climbing・ 「

giav,and can alTange guides.

Orientation

Money GorettSka Banka in thc Park hoに

`Bled'refers both to the lake and thc setuc_

shopping complex and opposite the casino

ments around it,particularly the built_up area tO thc north‐ cast whcre most ofthc hotels arc

On CleSta SVObOde iS open i■ om 9to ll.30 arn and 2 to 51pn1 0n Weckdays and 8 to ll

located.'I｀ his

anl on Saturday.SKI〕 13anka has a branch

deve10pment is dominated by

a rnodern shOpping cOrnplex called the l｀

riglav centre l)ut known locally as the [1laddhafi centre'because it was originally

`К

slated for .TripOli. IBled's nlain road, Ljubljanska cesta,runs eastwrd from heК Footpaths and a road c」 lcd Cesta Svobode

.

and thcn К lidriё cva ccsta circle the lake. Bled's bus station is atthe nOrthern end of

1

with an ATM in the Triglav shopping centre. Itis open 3rom 8.30 ain till noon and from 2 to S p■ l weekdays only.

Post&Communications The inain pOst OffiCC,OpCn WCekdays"on1 7 am to 7 pin md On Saturday dll n00n,iS at助 ubljanSka ccsta 10.

Cesta SvobOdc just up,om the Jelovica

′ hotcl. ・ here are two train stations. 「 he station called Lcsce― Bied is 4kin to the SOuth― east on the road o Radov」 ica and on the line linking LJubtana with Jesenice and

Trave:Agencies Kompas(1'741515)has

AuStria.Blcd Jezero,on Kolodvorska cesta

and On,Sunday frorn 8 arn till noon and`4 to

I｀

an officc in the.I｀ riglav shopping centre at

LJubljanska cesta 4.Itis open d

ly frOm 8

am to7 pm(to 8 Pm iom Junc Ю September

Go“njsh― Bled 137

」攣

=、

::::ζ ::i:::轟 :::邊

:lli::::鰤

・。 ヽい。, コ,9、 9凛 N 網護腱 日長38838 ヽ83 91● ■98ロ ● ￨■ ■ ● .

8 ８ ０Ｎ

::::::::::::::::: ご‐■988 38辱 ヽ99 3S

e

● ０︻餞

:こ

Ｏ Ｏ コｍＺ﹂０ス＞

::錮

138 GorenJSka― Bled 8 pin).Eimona Globtour(奮 741821)is m the castem wing ofthciKrm hotcl江 巧 ubtanska cesta 7.It isく )pen Monday to Saturday fiorn 8 ain to 7 pm and on Sunday■ om 8 anl lll noon and 5to 7 pm.

Bookshop Thel)ZS bookshop oppOsite the

coins and nOtes left by favour―

scekers,con―

tans a paindng Of Henry H and llis wife Kunigunda abOve the altar.

The CaStleis open daly Math to OctOber frorn 8 amto 7 p=n.Du ng the rest ofthe year it OpenS at 9 anl and closes at 4 pm.Admis― sion costs 300/150 SIT for adults/children. 11lou can reach the castle via twO trails:

G:rand Hotel Tloplice on Cesta Svobode has rnaps ofthe regiOn and sorne guideboOks in

frOm be

lE,ngliSh.ItiS opcn weekdays from 7.30 ain

Or frOmjust north ofthc neo― Gothic Parish

to 7 pin and till noon On Saturday.

Church ofSt MartinonRiklijevacesta.The church(1905)Was designcd by F ed ch

Laundlry lf you're nlnning low on clean laundiy,Bled isthe place tO wash thOse d

ty

clothes. A rnachine load washed and dried should only cost about 50()SIT atthe BIedec hostcl, and there's a laundry sOuth Of the centК at Canka」 eva cesta 23c,open■ om anito 2 pnl.

von Schinidt,who also did the city hall and rienna. ′he frescoes otive C:hurch in ヽ illustrating the Lord's Prayer were painted llζ

I｀

by SiaVko Pengov in the 1930s.(Dutside thcre's a small sllrine designed l)y JOを

6

Medical Sen′ ices iBled's inedical centre (1●

nd the hOStCl(SeC PlaCeS O Stay)

741400)is at Mladinska cesta l.

Pleё nik

ald thc remans of defencc w」

c Is

builttO SubduC the'I｀ urks in thc 15th ccntury.

B:ed isiand Tiny,tea― shaped Blas饉 ook,the only tnle

island in Siovenia, has been the site Of a

Bled Castle

Cll

Perchcd on a steep cliff nlore than 100m

excavations have shown thatthe early Slavs

abOVe the lake,Bled Castle(Ble」 stt Grad)is how inost people iinaginc nlediev」 lo■ s tO

century bcfore tllat.

bc― with towers,rarnparts,moa“ and a terrace o■ ering magniicent views on acle`r

day.The castle,which is built On two levels,

dateS baCk tO the llth Century(thOugh most Of What StandS here nOW is froni the 16th Century)and WaS the Seat ofthc Bishops of lBIrixcn, whO apparently redccoratcd the place regularly,lor 800 yel籠

s.

T'he baroque sOuthern wing houses a

stian church since thc 9th ccntury:But

worshipped at a pagan tcnlplc here atleast a (〕

etung to the island is half the fun.1lhe

easiest way is tO clil■ b aboard a hand― prO_

pelled gondola r′ ′ ι′ P,a in slovene)docked next to the casino,to the cast Of the{〔】 asuc

Baths poOl cOmplex orin

壼ino.The retum

fare is 1000 S111,and yOu get abOut a half‐ hourto explore the island;allin the trlp takes

abOut lL4 hours.Alじ mativel光 you can rent a bOat'Om the CaStle B■ hs(see Activities),

museurt cO:lection that traces the history of Lake lBIcd and its se■ lernents frOnl the Bronze Age tO the nlld‐ 19th centu:y.None ofthe funtitu“ )is Onginalto thc castle,but it

`ou cOuld swim toyOu're the island,but if you choose thateven l■ethod going tO have to drag sOrne clothes along in a plasdc

helps give yOu an idca of hOw the leisurcd

bag.The pOwers― that― bc wili notlet yOu into

Class lived in the Middle Agcs.

WCapOnS(SWOrdS,halberds and irearms

the iSland ChurCh in yOur SWiFnining ge`r. The bOatlets you Off On the island's sOuth Side a the mOnumCntal ttalrWay buitin 1655;

from the 16th to 18th ccntuncs),jewenery

aS yOu Walk up yOu'1l pass the Chaplain's

found atthe carly Slav burial pits atiP

HOuse and the provost's House frOm the

´

rhere's a large c。 llecdon of arillour and

stava,

and a few interesting carvings,including a

in Mlino Or at the largc beach tO the south‐ West.1ヒ

17th and 18th centuries with the lBrlxen

16th ccntury One of the overworked St

bishops'cOat Of arms On the faCade.

Florian,dowsing yet another connagradOn. The small 16th ccntuly chapei,strewn with

Contdns somc fresco fragments iom the

The bιrOque

ChurCh Ofthe Assumption

Gorc刊 ska― Bled 139 14th century,alargc gold altar and,underthe floor of thc navc, part of thc apSe Of thc

Naturally cVeryone and their gran(inlothcr docs it ― again and again and again. The

pre‐ lRo,manesque

church is Open daily froin 8 anl to dusk.

chapel,thc only onc in

Slovenia.Models in thc porch illustrate thc dcve10prnent Of the sitc fronl an 8th century v′

attle_arld_daub structure to the 17th century

church standing here tOday.〈 :)utside ls a 15th

Lake Waik Lakc lBlcd is not a largc body ofヽ Vatcr― it ― and thc nlcasurcs only 2kin by 1380nl

ishing bcll'that visi― ccntury beifry、 vith a`、ア

sccond bcst、 vay to scc itis from thc shorc.

vant to ask a favour tors can ring if thcy 、

A walk around thClakC(6km)shouldn't take

with

and

in the

of

in

ro●k

nlountそ jn

almod

in

groon a

was merchant.・ rhe

but

not,

was at

‐

a

わ

roses

up frOm

The once retuin.

waibd kooper's

of her nO Fnatter

140 GorenJSka― Blcd much longer than two hOurs,I=ld it is at its

there are decent beaches around the lake,

beSt in the early inorning.Along the way,

including a big grave1 0ne ncarthe canlp site

you'1l pass linden,chesmut and wil10w trees

and a grass lido with a big water slide to the

hanging over the water,boat sliPS,WOOden walkways,innurnerable anglers,the st`俎 ・ t Of

east ofthe llヽ P Of■ ce.Just beyond thc latter iS the large Cお 」e Baths(Grttsko Kop」 iSё e)

several hikes and a cOuple Of interesting

conlplex with an indoor pool and prOtected

sights.Start at the Grand Hotel Toplice and

enclosures in the lake itself where yOu can splash i狙・ ound. Entry is 5{Ⅸ 〕 /300 SIT'fOr

wak ciockwise. In Mlino,the Svetina Ca‖ ery at Ccsta

adultyiChildren with cabins costing 400 SI′

r.

Svobode 39 and beside the sculptOr's house at Mlinskacesta 10exhibitsthe workOf′ 110ne Svedna.'They're curiOus things really,Inade

The bathS are Open iom mid― April to

out of bits of old weapons,bombs,shrapnel and scrap nletal and,like Sveina's popular Bο ツ stylc historical novels, all ″― ` 01″ cxpress his alti― wT sentiments.

On the lake Or getting tO the iSiand(mOtOr bOatS ae banned heκ ).BOatS aCCOmmodat― ing tllrCe/ive people cost 10(Ю /1200S11｀ per hou■ 250〔 )/3000SIT for ahalfday and40(Ю /

Around the bend and pastthe cainp sit is

5000 1or a nll day.Therc'sal(XЮ SIT

the Zaka Rega"a Centre from where a rowing coinpetition is staged every June. The bronze statue of the βοα″ ″by BOris Kalin is attractive but does little"αto obscure

the dreadful staging tO the sOuth that was built for an internatiOnal rowing charnpion― ship in 1989.It iSツ `り 'unpopular in thcse

O'ctober froin 7 ain to 7 pin. Thisis also aplace tO rent boats for rowing

depOsit On di rentas.Boa“ b“ 。to bur people are also for rent in iont of the GosilnaPiema m卜 狙ino,orfanher west near the entranCe tO the canll)site,for 8(X〕 to lCX)0

SIT FCr hour.

Four hotels in:Bled have indOOr pools incd with therlnd water as wcll as saunas:

parts. The￢rigiav National Park(TNP)

thc Grand HOtel ・rOplice, the Park, the

oflcc at Кlidriё cvacesta2 has a sniall nature

exhibit cOncerned with mounttn ecO10gy

Jebvica and the Golf(CankaEieva ulica 6). The p001in the baSement ofthe Grand Hotel

and what you nught cncOunter in the park.

Tloplice costs abOut looo srr to use.

It's unlikely yOu'1l spot ZlatorOg,thc fear― sornc and inl■lortal `gOlden horn'chanlois

´″ rR“ Pた α″

″ ″,who guardsthe golden `α “t TriglaV(SCC tCaSurC Of】 Ⅵ bOXed tcxt end―

tlcd Zlatorog&His Golden Horns).The Castle i3aths`rc a bit farther on. An alternative to circling the lakc on foot

iS tO rent a biCyCle(SeC(]ettingた tO take a hOrSe―

ound)。 r draWn Carnage F,α 滋 り frOm

the Stand near thc FeStiV」

Hal(奮 741121)

HorseRidingTheVilaⅥ kЮ ttapensionhas hOrSCS aVallable lor 2000 SIT per hout a wonderful way tO climb up Stratta H111,tour the lake Or 10110W a SeCtiOn ofthe SavaRtiver

The stables are Open l[Onl 10 am」 1l noon and ioin 2 to 7 pm dally.

Tennis TheК a℃ fOurにnnis couns a the

On Ccsta Svobodc.A twin around the lake

ZakaRegattaCentre atthe westcrn end ofthe

for four people costs 300C)S111,and it's the saine price for twO people up to the castle.

lake,open Malch to Novcmbe■

YOu Can CVen getaCanage brお urtOBohi可

GOif The Bled G。 lf&Country Club's27-

(20,∝Ю SIT fOra haliday К turn tnp),Kropa

hOle, 109-par COursc(1●

(12,000 SIT),Radovljica(7000 SIT)and Vintga(6ⅨЮ SIT).

3knl to the cast Of the lakc near I´ csce.11le

Activities

SWimming&BOding Blcd'swな

m(23° C

at SOurCe),C,St」 ‐ Clea Water makcs it suit―

able for swilnnling wellinto the autunln,and

718 230)is about

ClubiS Open daly iomAp lto OctoberfrOm 8 am to7 pm.The g“ cn tcs lora round a℃ I)M65,a Set Of Clubs costs I)M19 and hand cartis DM6 to rent.There's asO a driving

range(DM4 for36 bans)and apro who gives leSsons for I)M35 to I)M50 per hour.Minia―

Goκ ttska― Blcd 141 August,and Rikli'sI)ays,a nlultilnedia fcs―

ture gOlf is avallable at the Bife Mini Golf OppOsite the Lovec hotel for 350 SIT.

tiv」 in late July when there a・

e■ 1に works

and

the entire lakc is illuminated by candlelight.

summenimc conccrts(mOSt Often On

Flying The Alpinc Flying Ccntre(Alpski

dり evening)take

MOnday ftemoon md F

cesta 10 in ILesce has panoramic flights oVer

place at the castlc,thc island church an(l the

Bled(7Ⅸ Ю SIT for mκ e people),Bohini

pansh church.恥 ile

(11,(xx)sIT)and even・ rriglav(16,400S11｀

roinantic venue for BaCh Or IIandel,don't

),

the island is a far more

and in winter you can go `para‐ skiing' (21,()(Ю SIr)in which you are dropped by parachute over a precipitOus snowbound

nllss a cOncert at the church of St Martin― it has one ofthe finest organs in Slovenia.

slope― wcanng skis!

Places to lStay Bcitting areso■ ofsuch populanty,lBledhas

ice skating ・rhe lakc usually freczes in

a wide rmge of accommodation―

winter but if you're in Bled dunng a w=m

s10venia's irst hostel to a ive―

spel10rin summer(open Augustto May)and feel llke cutting up the ice, Visit the ice Jζび Skating nnk(′ `'in the SpOrt iIIall `Sa′ (SPortna DvOrana)at巧 ubjmska cesta 5 in

from

star hOtel in

a villa that was Once the suinlner retreat of Josip lBrOz・ ritO.'T'he lake and sull・ ounding

areas cOunt sorne 4ooo beds,■ lore than 5% Of the total available in Slovenia.

the park bchind thc lく rinl hotel.

α('741117)is a six― hectare `λ camp site accOrnrnodating 750 peOF)le in a ca:mlping 2シ

Sk‖ ng The cIOsest`real'ski resoi to Bled is

Zatrnik(1● 741 133),on the slopes of the

POkljuka Haeau 8km west of Bled With skiing up to 1250m, a chair lift and four beginners will be conじ nt with

T― bars.But

thc mini_ski centrc at stratta(same宙

)soum_

west ofthc Grand HOtl Toplice.A chairli食 takes yOu tO thc tOp ofthc 646m hillin threc nlinutes;you'1l be down the shortslopein no timc.

Steam Train Slovcnijaturist's01dtimer Tran has excurs10ns in the wttmer months (rOughlyfromApri1 0 September)th■

eithcr

originate in iBlcd or pass through the rcsort.

others leave frOnl Jesenicc, 13km to the north‐ west,or

Most na Soё i.Routes and

quiet valley at the westenl end of the lake, on.The loca‐ about 2.5km iom the bus st

tion is good, and there's a deCent beach, tennis cOuris, a large restaurant facing thc lake and a supcrmarkct,but Ziaka■ 1ls up very quickly in surniner The carnP Site is Open fronl May to(0)ctobcr and costs about

DM12 per pcrson. Sο ら ′c('718 006),the largest canlping grOund in SIovcnia,is in Lesce.Sec F'laces tO Stり in the Radov」 ca scc■ on brdc面 ls. It is stl■ ctly lorbidden to canlp elscwhere on the lakc,and the law is enforced.

HOstel The β′ ιc hosじ 1(宙 745250),at `′ und,cxcept Grttkacesta 17aldopenyearЮ

こ 。veinbet has a total of 56 beds in 13

tiinetables change frequently, but popula]r excun,iOns include Bled― Liublianavia lく rani

in lヽ

and Sko増 a Loka(5760/3600 SIT for

fast).Check― in is from 7 ain to 10 with bre」 【 prn, and you'1l be given a key to tlle front doorif you expect to return late.

adultsた hildren)and Bled― Most na Soё i via

BOhi■ ska Bistnca(635α 3650 SI「 ).Fares

rooms and costs DiM20 perperson(orDM26

include lunch and side tnps.

Private Roo:ms Kolnpas,Emona Globtour Special Events

and the ATs ravel agency('741736)at

Anumber ofspecial eventstake place dunng

巧 ubljanSka CeSta la haVe thOuSandS Of

the suininer in iBled,including thc lnterna―

pnvate rooms and apartinentson theirbooks. In the low scason,tlle price pcr person for a rOOrn withOut breakfast rangcs frorn I)M13

tional Rowing Rcgatta in early June, the ([)karina VVlorld Music Flestival in July and

００コロＺ﹂０バ＞

Letaski centr;● 733431)at BcgunJSka

142 GorenJSka― Bled to I)M22,depending on the catcgory.11l July

rnodern cxtension.Singlcs with showcr and

and AuguSt,eXpCCt tO pay bctween I)M17 and DlM26.Apartments fOr twO range tom D 142 to I)M60.You'1l have to pay 30%

breakfast a・e

inore if you stay in a pnvate room or apan― n■ cnt

ior lcss than three days.

DM48 to DM68 while doubles are I)M66 to I)M106. About 200in up the Sane Street and on thc left at No 7,the sprawling κ′ ι れ ('7970:fax 77 698),with 218 beds,has aln10st cxactly thc sarne ratcs:

If you wanttO dO yOur Own invcsugating

DMi50 to DMi70 for singles,DMi70 to

and strike a private deal,there arc lots of

13)Ml10 for doubles.Close to the bus stadon

hOuSCS With SObe(r00mS aV

and froning a prctty park ha leads Ю thc lake,thc 188‐ bcdル ′ οッたα(● 7960;fax 741

lablc)signs around Blcd, particularly to thc nOnh in Reё ica.It's not exactly in the centre ofthings

550)hお singles br DM65 to DM85 and

but it's a quiet area.

doubles for DM 100 to DM 140. Bled'S Iargcst hotel, the 400-bcd Pα ″ 々 ｀793C);fax 741 505)is oppositc thc casino

Farmhouses IBelieveit or not,you can actu―

(1日

allv stav at a farm verv close to BIed.It lnav

and the lakc and about as central as yOu are

nOlcx“ tly beaStalCiska_sけ le spread,butit

gOing to get.Singles arc I)M75 to I)Ml10

will bc a working fann nonetheless.Sc10,a villagc lkrn south of Mlino, has several

while doublcs arclDMl10to DM180.Rcccp‐

farnlhouscs with accornrnodatiOn,including Pο ッ ぶJ4(●

77334)at Selo 22 with eight

Fα ″ (雪 78617)with four roorns at No 20. Prices range fronl about

rOOms and Srの 11)M30 to I)ヽ

445 per person,depending On

the scason and r00in category.

tiOn iS On the lSt■ oor at(['csta Svobode 15.

If you really want to splurgc Or havc the

rich uncle Or aunt in tow, there arc twO choices ― both of tllen1 0n thc lakc. The l10-rOOm G´α′ :グ 〃ο た′■,P′ た′('7910;fax

741841),Cesta Svobode 12,is Bled's`olde wonde'hotcl,with attractivc public arcas (thOugh SOmcrather dak

Юoms)and Superb

PenSiOnS The attraCtiVC И″ Иた ″ヴα `ο (● 742485)below StraZa Hill at Cesta

Chealrst singles arc DMl10 and DM120,

Svobode 27a charges frorn lDM35 to DM50

depcnding on the season,while dOubles arc

lor singlcs and I)M40 to I)M70 for doubles, depcnding On the scason. It has six rOOrns

from DM 150 and DM 180.The hotel'stwO eXtenSiOnS OppOsite ― the 7レ sr at(〕 esta

and two suites(DM30to DM50 per persOn) with enormous bdcOnicsね cing tte lakc―

views of the lake on its northern side.11le

Svobodc 19 and the nlore attractive Jα ′′ αれ On the hill at No 23-are about onc‐ third

alnong the inost rolnandc Places to stay at

chcapei

BICd.Thc lイ′ ο pcnsion(宙 741404)in thc neXt Village `″ at Cesta Svobode 45, bettcr

ThC iVC― Sttt И′ αB′ ι グ(宙 7915;fax 741 320),where Tito and his fOreign gues、 once

kno、 vn for its restaurant than its accOrnrno―

put their feet up and their heads dOwn, is eVen mOrc cxpensivc:I)M215 to I)M23()for

dation, has 15 rooms available.

′ rhey're

more expensive than the Viktorija,with SinglCS(inCluding ShOWCr and breakfast) costing DM50 1o】 )M60 and doublcs I)M70

to lDM90.Thc attractive И′ α P´ ι (■

`ぶ “ `″ '741 608),with Only 14 beds facing thc

a single and I)M330 toI)M360 1or a dOuble. Vila lBled is surroundcd by a large park and has its oフ vn

privatc bcach and boat dOck.It

is at(3esta SvObOde 26, west of Mlino Village,and has 31 roorns and suites.

lake at iKidriё eva cesta l, chargcs frOrn

E)M65/1 00 1or singles/doublcs.

PiaCes to Eat

Hote:s Not surprisingly,thc cheapest hotels in Bled tte a bit away■ oln the watcr and on

Bled is blesscd with a lot of restaurants― g00d,bad or othcr"'ise.For pizza and vege‐ tarian food, head fOr the large garden caf6

nOiSy Streets.■ 'he Lο ッ 741500;fax 741 `c(● 021),LJubljmska cesta 6,hぉ 138 beds in

Jclovica hOtel.

both an interesting。 ld building and an ugly

and pub cancd the P。 ′ κosrα 4′ 」at the

The腸 4g〃 αJis

a― cOrne On noν 7,guess

Goκ n」 ska― Bled 143 _ chinesc restaurant at Ulica lNarodnih IIeroJcv 3 alnlost oppoSite thc lKrim hotel.

COOked pOrk)and ma pO dOufu (SpiCy beanCurd)aren't eXaCtly what iyou'd gct in Chcngdu but this is

「['he hui guO rOu(tWiCe―

s10vcnia aftcr all.sOups averagc about 250 sI「 , rice and n00dle dishes 750 SI・

r, and

rnain cOurses rtin frOn1900to 1250 SI「 .L′ ang Ha is Open daily til1 1l pm. There frc a couple Of gο srぶ dα in Mlino,

βルグ Casi′ ο(奮 741811),with roulcte, blκ kj¨ k,baccar江 帥 d80 slot mκ hincS,is

Open cvery day Of the wcek― f」om 7 prn Monday to Thursday and frOn1 5 pm atthe wcckend― till late.

Getting There&Away Bus Buses aule very frequent to Radovbica

the rnain villagc on the lake's southem shore:

esta svObode 37,、 vih a dccent ″αat(こ〕

P′

wintcr though.Thc Cas′ れοBク ″opposite thc Crand Hotcl Top cc caf6江 Cesta Svobode 19aisinOre dOwn to eanh― in every resPcct.

`′

lunch incnu for 880 SIT and open daily from 」 ″οat No 45.Thc lattr 8am to llpm,andν ′

(Via bOth lκ SCe and BegunJC),and there iS at least o“ an hOurtO BO 可,(anj,コ ublana,

has decent SIovenian dishes with an ernpha―

Podhonl and Zasip. C)ther dcstinations servcd frOm iBled includc: 13ovec via

sis on fish and is opcn ti11 1l pm.

KiranJska Gora and the VrSiё

My favourite restaurant in iBlcd rcinains thc hOmcly P″ ,P′αれ,″ ε at GraJska cesta 8 “ Bledec hostel. just dOwn the hill fronl the

day in July and August, on Saturday and

Excellcntinushroom soup and roast chickcn

(three Or fOur),Piran(One a day in Sununer),

、 vitll chips and salad sllouldn't cost much

Pokliuka (one or two fronl latc June to octOber)額 ld Sko巧 a Loka(onc).Onc bus a

more than 1600 SIT and the gnlled Balkan specialities likc

ё eVapё iё i(SPiCy inettb」

IS

of beef Or pOrk)and the taS,pljeSkaViCa Z kaJmakOm(Serbian― SWIC meat ptttiCS With

mascarpOne_lke ccam cheese:1050 SIT) are very well prepared.Pri I)lanincu is open daily± om 9 am to ll pm.

Bled's most upinarket rcstaurant is the Oた α ″ れ′at Ridijeva cesta 9.It has a lovely

covered back tetTace lit with tOrCheS,tradi― れαiS a tional musical inStrumCntS(an ο滋7′ 」

Pass(onc bus a

Sunday in June and Sepember),CeljC(One),

Jesenice via Vrba(■ ve),Kra刊 ska Gora

day heads for the Croatim capit」 via LJubljana.

of Zagreb

Train I´ escc_Bled statiOn gets ul)to 15 trains

adり fromL」 ublma(51km;55 minutes)via Sko巧 a Loka,Kranj and Radovliica.Thcy cOntinuc On to Jcsenice(13kln;15 nunutes),

from、 vhere about 10 cross the bordcr for Vilach in Austna. Up to eight dally ttains frol■ l Jesenice via

small clay flute)and CVen StageS SpCCial

Podhonl pass through Bled Jezero station on

cultural events frorn tinnC tO time.IBut it's not

their way tO BOhi■ ska Bistrica(18kin;20 mlnutes),IMOst na Soё i and Nova Corica

cheap:sOups and starters rangc from 600 to lCЮ O SIT,With manS(a dOZen Ofthem Veg―

(79km;1%hours),from where you cam

etanan)■ om 1300 to 2500 SIT Expectto pay about 3000 SIT per person lor two cOurses and a drink. The()kanna is open

make cOnncctions for Seを ana,40kin to the

daly■ om 5 pm to midnight(from noon

yOu are headed sOuth― west to Nova(]orica, sit on the right― hand side of the train to see

Friday to Sunday).

south― east,and 11ョ lly.Tllis rnountain railway

is one ofthe nlost pictllresque in Slovcnia.If

thc valley Ofthc cobalt bluc Soё

a River atits

Entertainlmlent Sevcral pubs havc lovely tclTaces with grcat views Open in the wariner inonths.′ Iヽvo of たcaf6 above the the better ones are the Pα ″

best.

casino on Cesta Svobode and the C″ ′′グ

7.It is Open weelkdays frorn 7 am till noon

〃bたι及フ ′Jた ′ca16 at Ccsta Svobode 12a.But νιグ r`,a caf6 on top of nothing beats thc βι′

and frorn 5 to 7 prn.It closes at l pm on Saturday.Emona Globtour is af■ liated with

a tall to、 ver

Eurodollar and rents cars from its oficc on

'ι

near the Vila lBlcd.It closes in

Car Hciz(雪 741519)rents cas from its Omce atthe K

m hotel at L」 ubtanska cesta

144 GorenJska― Around Bled the other sidc of the sarne building. (●

742183)has an oricc in the

Budget

′ I｀

riglav

〈 ;hurch of St Pctcr,cOnレ uning sornc of the こ ■lost valuable nlcdicval frescoes in

Goκ ttska done by Jcma of Loka,ald the Hostages Museum oluz● Tacev)m an old

shopping ccntrc.

Gening Around

nlanor housc(housc No 55)dedicated to

Parking in Bled is rcstictcd to sevcn city― く Ｙ Ｏ ﹁Ｚ 日 〓 ０ ０

nlaintained car iparks around the resort ｀ and costs 500 SIT(or 1000 SI■ 1■ ght on the lake)per day.I【 10u Can OrdCr a 10CaltaXi On

● 741 118.

Kompas,Emona Globtour ald ATS κnt bicycles and mountaln bikes.Pnces a責 〕400 SIT an hou■ 9CX)SIr for halfa day and 1400 ｀ SI■ lor a full day. Konlpas has the biggest

ovcr 12,(X)0'people hcld here by the Gestapo .All of these destina」 ons can

during卿

be reached by wcll rnarked rails that arc outlincd onぬ cl:25,∝ Ю‐ scdc map B′ ι″ z Oた ο ′ たοr′ ル′α″グE″ ν 」ο″s:5(Ю SIr)and “map from GZS the l:50,Oα )Gο ″″sた α (looo sI′ r),bOth avallable fronl the tounst ofiEce.

selection.

VintgarlGorge

AROUND BLED

One Of th eaSieSt and mOSt SatiS,ing day /intgar()orgc, a inere 4.5kln trips is to ヽ

l'1le area around Bled offcrs cndless pOs―

no■ h‐ west

SibilitieS fOr eXCurSiOnS: thC POk:luka

builtin 1893 hugs the rock wali for 1600m along the lRadovna Rivet cnsscrossing thc raging riVer bur imeS OVer rapidS,W3ter‐

Piateau beneatt T glav Ю the west with a gorgc 2knl long;the village of Vrba where Francc Pに も el℃ n was born(house No 2)and

of Blcd.A wooden lootbndge

falls and pools before reaching Sum

the siに of the Rolnanesquc―

Gothic Church of St Mark with 14th century frcscOes;

Waterfa‖ .The cnti“ w」k is spectacula

BeguniewiththeminsofKamenCastlc,thc

Thcl℃ at litie snack bars at thc beginning

though it can get pretty wct and slipIЮ

ry.

and the end ofthe walkway and picnic tablcs

a SeVed bCatiOnS」 ong the way.Admls‐ sion to the gorge costs 300 SIr for adults and

200 SIr for children,and it is open frOm ■lid― April to October,Om 8am■ o8pm. It's an easy walk to the gOrge tonl Blcd. IIead north‐

lⅣ

est On iPreSerllova u

ca then

north on Partizanskaccstato Ccsta v Vintgar.

′ rhis will take you to Podhonl,whcre signs

show the way tO the gorge entrancc. To it hen tums

return,you can cither rctrace yOur steps Or,

from Sum Waterf」 1,w」 k over HOm Hill (834in)cas● ″ard to the ancient p■ grllnage

Church of St Catherine, which retains sonle 15th century 10■ iications.Froln thcrc it's duc south through iZasip tOIBled.

'11losc unablc or unwiling tO walk all the Way Can take the buS Or■ e tram(缶Om

:認1総1態

°

1:1臆

overnight. ￨IE

盟雪 露悧Ъ 飛.1:L

Bled

JeZerO Station)to Podhom.From thet it'sa l.5km w」 k westwrd to the main cntrance. Fioln late June tO nlid_septenlber an Alpe―

tOur bus makesぬ e nin from Bled's bus station dally at 9.30 anl,stopping atthc casde

ctt park,and“ tumsjust bcbre noon.Onc way is 200 SIr.

GOrenJska― BohinJ 145

BOHINJ

グθ●θ6イ I,ohinJ, a largcr and muCh less dcvcloped vest of Bled, glacial lake 26krn to thc south― 、 oα ″

cο

`α

is a wondeiful antidotc to the lattcr and onc

castle loorning high on a rocky cliff.But it

scttled during thc Hallstatt period duc to the

largc amounts of iron ore in the area,and a a tradc routc linked the lake With the Soё Valley and the Adriatic Sca via a pass at Vrh Baё e,south― east of Bohinjska Bistrica.

does havc Triglav itself visible fronlthc lakc

Dunng the Middle Ages,when the area fell undcr thc Jurisdiction Of thc BishopS Of

VOndcrful vcather clcars and a ヽ when the 、

Bnxcn at Blcd,BohinJ Was known for its

naturalncss that doesn't cxiSt at Blcd.・ hc BohinJ area's handful of nluscums and his― toncal churchcs will keep culturc Vulturcs busy durlng their visit,and for action types

rnarkets and fairs,which wcre held near the Church of StJohn the Baptist.Hcrc peasanじ 針om thc Friuli rcgion従 Ound Tricste traded

I｀

from kayaking

there are activities galore―

and nlountain biking to scaling′ rriglav via onc ofthe southem appЮ aChCS(S∝ bOXed teXt

cntitlcd Climbing Mt Tnglav"om BohinJ)・ ´

11le only drawback is thc lake's propensity for attracting fog,espccially in thc morning.

salt,

、 vinc and foodstuffs with their Slo―

vcnian counterparts for iron ore, livcstock

and butten As thc population grew,herders wcnt highcrinto thc Julian Alps in search of pasture land while charcoal burncrs cleared thc uppcr forcsts fortinlbcrto fueltlle forges.

′ he iron industry continued to flourish I｀

hike up

over

you

m

Dο Planika.

bmler takes 0 31ed do

t

p about seven hours

The" are

００コｍＺ﹂０ス＞

Of my favOuntc spOts in SIovcnia.(DK,so it doesn't have a romantic little island or a

History BOhi刊 (Wochain in Gcrman)was dcnsely

146 GorcnJSka― Bohi刊

一 一

:`躍 1摺 舵肥a,ite

ο

くＹＯ﹁〓ШＥ００

BOhini 一

¨ ｍ ｍ ニ ヽ

_^´ 、 ′

ヽ′

′ ヽ´ヽ´ 、 ´ ヽ

ヽ ´ 、ヽ

Fヒ ´ ― ^ヽゝ

醐路編

1lerc until thc latc 19th century v/1lcn it nlovcd()n to Jcsenice.I〕 ut all、vas notlost for Bohin」

:a rail、

vay connecting the Sava Valley

"'ith Gorica and thc coast opcncd in 1906, providing BohinJ｀ Vith its irstlmodcrn coin― nlunications link.

Triglav was`conqucrcd'fronl BohinJ for thc irst tiinc in thc latc 18th ccntury.:BohinJ

has also figurcd Proinincntly in Slovenian literary history ・ he poet iVlalentin ｀ ヾlodnik 「

(1758-1819)lived and worked in ncarby (〕

Thcrc is no to、 vn callcd iBohinJ:the nanlc rcfcrs to thc cntirc valley,its settlenlcnts and

thc lake.

BohinJska IBistrica(pop 3080: postcode 4264),6km to thc cast of the lakc.Smal

villages on or ncar thc sOuthern and castcrn shorcs include: Ribё ev L′ az, Ukanc, Stara Fuを ina at the lllouth of thc Mostnica([〕 orgc, Studor,a vcritablc`villagc Of hayracks',and SrednJa lVas.´ hcrc are no scttlcmcnts()n the 「

northern sidc.

orJuOc and cvcn left his narne in pcncil on

the back of thc high altar at St John thc Baptist's Church.And most ofthe events in Francc PrcSeren's epic Poem θαρ″s″ 7α :` Sα ν たαいを′

`イ

´ 「 he largcst to、 vn in the area is

Ylou'1l find evcrything Ofapractical naturc in Ribё

cv Laz― more spcciflcally in the

shopping con1lplex sOuth― cast Of the Jezcro hotel.

``ノ ″′ ,inCluding thC dCmiSC OfOur

In Ribё ev Laz buscs stop near thc toul‐

lst

heroこ rtomir,takc placc around BohinJ For

office and in BOhinjska Bistrica On

thosc rcasons iBohinJ CnJOys a nluch il10rc

Triglavska ccsta near thc cornbination pOlicc statiorypost officc and at thc train statiOn. BohinJSka Bistnca's train station is about

spccial place than Bled in thc hcarts and rninds of rnany Slovcncs

700rn north― cast Of thc tO、 vn centre at

´

Orientation

I｀

Lakc lBohin」 , sonlc 4.5km long and up to 451n deeP,lics in a vallcy basin 523nl abovc

riglavska ccsta l.

!nformation

sca lcvcl on thc southcrn cdgc of´ riglav Iational Park.Thc Savica Rivcr■ ows into the lake to the、 vcst、 vhilc the Sava 13ohin」 ka

Tlourist C)frice「 Fhc hclpful and very cfficicnt

s out froln the sOuth― castern cOrncr ■o、 ′ ∼

mid― Septcmber

I｀

Iヽ

tOurist oficc(1日 Ribё

.723 370; fax 723 330)at

cv Laz 48 is opcn daily July through

iom 7 am to 8 pm.During

GOrenJska― BohinJ 147 the rest Of the year, it is open Monday to Saturday from 8 anlto 7 pnl and on Sunday fron1 8 anito 3 pnl.

a lake and fbll of cxquisite f:escoes.'3o my nund,it is the inost beautiful and evocative church in all of Slovenia,with the possible

cxception ofthe church ofthe H01y・ rrinity

Money・ he tounst office can change rnoncy I｀

but the rate is nOt gOod and it takes a 3巧 cOnlnussiOn.The pOst oficcs in Ribё ev Laz

Zう

and BohinJSka Bistnca give a better rate. GorenJSka Banka has a bralch in BohinJSka Bistrica at■ 'rg Svobode 2b,about 100■

every lnedieval church should bc:small,on

l east

OfS10VenlatunSt・ ItiS Open WeekdayS iOm 9to ll.30 anland 2to 5 pm and on Saturday from 8 Ю ll am.

at Hrastovije in Primorska. The nave is Roinanesque while thc Cothic

・ Presbytery dates frOm about 1440.Al額 ge ponion of the latter's walls,ceilngs and

arches arc covered with 15th and 16th century frescoes too numerous to appreci― ate in onc viewing.As you face thc arch froln the nave,look for the frcscoes deplcing tlle

behcading of the church's patron saint on

Post&co:￢ ‖nunications Thc post oficc at

eithcr side.(1)n the opposite side of the arch

Ribё ev Laz 47 is opcn Monday to Fnday llom 8 aln to 6 pnl with a couple of half― hour

to the le■ is Abellnaking his offc

bκ lょ s and on satumay till nOOn.Bohinjska Bistnca's post oficc,just eぉ t ofSIovenija― turist at′Ilriglavska cesta 35,is open week―

ng to(]od

and,to the nght,Caln with his infenor onc. Upon the shoulder ofhistory'S irStinurdcrer

sits a white devil ― a very rare sy■ lbol.

days nOnstOp fron1 8 am to 6 pnl and on

Behind you on the lower walls of the pres‐ bytcry arc rows Of angels with vanlpire‐ like

Saturday till noon.

tccth; look for the threc rnen aboVe them

Trave:Agencies The Alpinum travel

singing.Somc of thern llave goitrcs,once a colninon afaictiOn in n10unta■ 10us regions ′ rhe due to thc lack of iodinc in the dict.

agency(● 723441),which can orgalusc any nurnber of sport activities in I〕ohinJ, is a couple of doors down frc)rn the tounst ofice at Ribё cv iLaz 50.It is opcn weekdays frorn 7 anl to 7 prn and til1 3 1pnl atthe weckcnd.

Thc AlpinspOrt kiosk('723486)江

Ribё cv

carved wooden head of― guess whO'一 〇n s dates from 1380. Scveral palntings on the outside southcrn

One Ofthe sidc alt`u・

wall, Onc dating back to the carly 14th century,depict st c〕 hristOphcr ln thc Middle

Laz 53 to tte right,just before you CrOSS the stone bridge to the(I〕 hurch of St John the

Ages people belicved they would not die on

Baptist,also has prograins avallable but pri―

patrOn saint oftravellers.INo fools our ances―

marily rents cquipnlent.Itis open daily June to Augustfron1 9 arnto 7 pnl and fronl 10 am

tors, they painted them on churches ncar

to 6 pin thc rcst ofthc yc`r:Another such agency is Alpisclub atthe Podヽ bglom hotel

to look at least oncc in their livcs as they're

(管

723461)fanher west. S10venl江 urist('721032)has a branch

in BohinJska Bistrica at Triglavska cesta 45.

Itis open MOnday to Saturday,om 8 arnto

the day they had gazed upOn an icOn OFthe

roads andvillages,butapparently they forgot

ali now dcad.The 18th ccntury(ChurCh Of the Ho:y Spirit,acouplc ofkilolmetresto the west on the lakc shore,has a palnting of St stophcr on the outside as wcll. (〕 h ・ he Church of StJohn the】 3aptist is open I｀

8 Pnl and on Sunday in sunllner from 9 aln till n00n.In winter,thc Monday to Saturday

dally, nud― Junc to nlid‐ Septcrllber, fron1 9

hours are 8 aln tili noon and 2 to 6 pin.It」 so

star member frOm thc tounst Oficc will

opens on Sunday morning.

acconnpany you(150 SI′ r).

anltill noon and 3 to 6 prn.At othcr tinlcs a

Churches

Museunls

The Church of St Johnthe Bap● st,on thc ■o■ hcrnsideoftheSavaBohinJkaacrossthc

The Alpine Dairy Museum (PlanSarski

stOne bridgc from the JcZero hotl,is wh雄

about l.5kmnorth ofRibё ev Laz,hasasmdl

Muzq)at housc No 181 in Stara Fuを

ina,

148 Gore刊 Ska― Bohi可

aVallcy duringWI.

collection related to Alpine dairy farming in

Isonzo Frontinthe SOё

the Bohinj Vallcy,once the mOstimpoiant

Along with weapons and bolnbs arc inaly

such centre in Slovenia.Until the latc 1950s large quantities of cheese were still being

personal itcms frOrn sOldiers, including

inade on 28 highiand pastures,but now a mOdCm dal,in neaby Sedtta Vお dOCS it all The four rooms ofthe museurn,a cheese

by Russian prisoncrs of war and ltalian

dalry itsclf oncc upon a tiine, cont`un a

peace nluscunl and in inany ways nlore

rnodels of churches inade frOm inatchsticks hcllnets with holcs punched into them fOr use as colandcrs when inaking pasta.It's really a

nlock‐ up of a 19th ccntury herder's co■ agc,

nloving ancl inl■ lediate than the much ipro―

fascinating old phc)t()graphs,cheesc prcsses,

moted nluscum in Kobarid.Josip TitO,who

wooden butter inoulds,copper iennet vats, cnornlous snowshoes and sledges,and won―

spent a tw days in BohinJSka Bisttica in 1939,returncd 40 years iatcr to olr)n the

derful lland‐ carved crooks.It is open every

day,except Monday,inJuly and AugustfrOFn

rTluscunl― solmiething the curator is very ′ proud o■ rhe llomaを (〕 odec Museurnis open

ll anl to 7 prn.I)unng the rest of thc ycar

Mayto(Dctobet Tuesday to Sunday,fronl 10

(with the exception of November and

am till noon and 4 to 6 pnl.Fronl Janua・ y to

Decembe■ when itis closcd),thc Tuesday tO

April it is open thc salne hours but on

Sunday hours`lК 〕10 anl till noon and frorn 4 to 6 pin.Admlssion is 3(X)/150 SIT for

Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday only. Adnllssion is 300/150 SI'r for adultylchildren.

adultsた hildren.

While you're in Sttra Futtina,take a walk

over to the village of Studor,a couple of

savica waterali

kiloinetres to the east.《 )p:en House

Savica is onc ofthe reasons peOple cOrne to

(Oplenova HiSa)a No 16is an old peasant's cottage with a chinlney― less`s■ 1。 kc kitchen'

BohinJ― tO gaze at this lnagniicent 601n waterfali cutting deep intO a gOrge and

that haS bCCn tumed inЮ a muSeum(Same hours and adlnission as thc Alpine I)airy

pCrhaps carry on to tlle′ riglav Lakes Valley 「 Or eVen′I:riglaV itSelf(SCe boXed teXt Cntitled

Museum).Studor's real claim toね me,

01d Mr Thec Hcads).

howevet is its nlany`ο ′Jα ″ 7j,double― linked

′ he waterfall, the sOurce of slovenia's I｀

hayracks with bans or storagc areas at the

10ngeSt and nllghtiest rive■

top.Look for the ones atthe cntrance to the

Zlatorog hotelin IJkanc and can be reached

Village,which datc iom■ he 18th and 19th centunes.

by footpath frOnl thcrc.([〕

The Tomaを Godec Museum(Muz可 Tomaを a Godca)in Bohi■ ska Bistica at Zoisova ulica 15 (about 100m sOuth Of

・Ilriglavska cesta)iS a l■ 1lXed bag Of a place that docs have its ■10rncnts. IIoused in a

reCOnStructed tannery owned by Mr(]odec (1905-42),a lPanisan whO played a rolc in

the formttion of thc Wugosiav Communist Pany,thc cxhibits tracc the histOry Of iron

brging in the v」 ley from earlicst times, explain the 10ng process ofmaking icather― the SmalI Inill over the lBistnca River hcre still turns_and exarnine the line Of(〕 。mradc

Godec. Abovc the nlill there is a snlali but fasci―

nating collectiOn dealing graphically and onen very poignantly with the honors ofthe

is 4km frorn the s and the bus in

`u・ Surnmer go Via a gravel road. F.rOFn the SaViCa cstturant,it'sa20-minut w」 k over

rapidS and strcarns to the falls.Entrancc to the trail costs 300/150 SIr and it is open April toく )ctOber from 9 am tO S prn.It costs 350,SIT to park. 11le falls arc arnong the most inlpressive Sights in the Julian Alps,cspecially after a

hcavy rain,but bnng sOmcthing waterproof or you lnay be sOaked tO the skin by thc spray. ・wO huts to the wcst at just over

「

1500m―

Dο れ ″ a κο ″″′(● 721 475 or mobile● 0609-611 221)and κοごα ′οど βοgarι ″ο″:('723 070 or mobile● 0609-

621943)― can be reached in about 21カ

hours. ・ hough both have accorninOdation I｀

and food,the fOnneris open ycar round,the latter ttOm iate June tO September Only.

Gorcn,ska― BohinJ 149

P00Dle die eVerV Vear On‐ rriqlaV.

￨￨

‐

dも pends onう ersonal preference,butyou wanttO tr"01 abSOlutely,S‖ ghtaSpOSSib16. WhattObring´ .Leave most ofttouF kit down bolow bn wear tturdy hiking booお

and warm,watorpr00f clothing,You

might also considercarrying a‐ compass and a torch(fiashlight).Food,exceptfor snacks like nut bars,

is Gnnecessary as the mouitain huts arewelisupplied.You should bring sorne water buttea and other .hot drinks are beterforthirst. ￨￨￨ ￨ ‐ ￨I Therelare 56 rnountain huts in tho Julian Alps.lTiost ofthem open beh″ oon June.and Septerrヽ bO● .But Others‐ rnav extend their season a rnonth in either direction and sonle huts atlower altitudes are open all vear.Htlts are never ivlore than‐ lve hours apan atthe rη ost.A mountain hut 4,′ an′nstaた oda a,′,sだ dο ″ 。キρ′ り」mos always has a∝ 。mmOdatiOn(usua‖ yo。 載ing botwOonfЮ m 1520 to2750 SIT

な a電:浮 ♀ F鵬 :薔 F需1鵠 躍 器: ィ

::ii籠

蹴。 鷺帰 ::r路 部 lJ鵬 1翻 鳳1鶴 1沸泥 3 。 ‖qlav can be

(bariev Oruel).ヽ iou'Ii never be turned awav r the weatherl。

ks bad,but sOrne huts on‐ 「

unbearably crowded at weekends― especia‖ yin August and Sopterriber l‐

ry to do the trek mid‐

Week

and phone the hut ahead ifit has a mobile telephone:sorne take bookings. ￨ glav wlh the main approaOhes from the There are about 20 d fferent ways to reach the top Of T south(Bohini,POkl,Oka)andthe nonh(Vrata,Kot).A‖ ofer varylng de9"es of dimculW and have their‐ pluses and nlinuses. Experienced hikers tend‐ tol go for the rnore‐ fo「 bidding no■ hern approaches, doscending via one ofthe gentlo southern routes.Novices_usually.as00nd andl‐descend near Bohini. The route from Trenta in the Soё a Vlal:oy is steep but notimpossibl● and lesslfrequontod● ue to lts ‐

relativelv re,motelstart.Mosttreks requi,o two overnights in the mountains.

..

‐

BOf。 お yOu begin,arm yOursOr with a copy of″ ο″ゎ.c″ b7g′ 。k!et ね a dozen of the best routes and published by.the Alpine Association“of Slovenia(Plan;nska ``a superb b。 Zveza Slovenile: PZO).This 65‐ page publicalon,ava‖ able eveり Whe∞ br about 1000 SI工 aiso has an i‖ udrated

‐ ‐ ‐ ‐

sectlon on Triolav's rerna■ く able flora thatis useful

‐‐ .￨

scale Jυ ″ sc力 θ`A′ρθ ' 14andarヤ a″ θcovo「 s the、 ″ ン holo of Triglav National Park「The Alpine Association publishes a,vo‐ sheet l:50,000‐scale rnap ofthe Julian Alps:forTriglav and the park yoo wantthe eastern part`υ υ′ rskOノ ρθ ―ヽ /2カ Od″ ′ ‐ De′り .They also do a more deta‖ ed l120,000‐ scalo 77g′ av map 口 ￨ ‐

Several rnaps to the area arelavaliable_Freytag and Borndrs l:50,000‐

:

l′

150 GorcnJSka― BohinJ

Hiking For infornlation about cliinbing Triglav frorn BohinJ See boxed text― though

Fishing Lakc Bohitt and thejade― coloured Sava lBohinJka arc nch in variOus types Of trout and grayling and are arnong the mOst

it's not alljust Triglav at BohinJ.A circul征

popular places for angling in S10venia.I〕 ut

w」k around the lakc(12km)iom Ribё cv Laz should take between thrce and four

don't expect licenccs to con■ e cheaply; you'1l pay 4500 SIT a day forthe lakc and

hours.(〕 r you could just do Parts of it by following the hunters' trail in the forest

8500 SI「 for thc river as far as Sotcska.The

Activities

abovc thc south shorc of tlle lakc to thc Zlatorog hotcl and takllg the bus back or walking a10ng thc inOre tranquil nOnhern shOre undcr ttc clirs of Prgivec(1761m). (ogei Much■ lorc difiEcult is the hikc to Mtヽ ´ (19221n)from thc cable car's upper station (see sは ing below).Be vew cacmlofthefOg in these parts and don't set outifit looks likc logcl is espccially prone to lightning rain;｀ ′

thc nver it's fronl May to(Octobet'rhe Alpinunltravel agency and St`re pension in IJkanc sell thc permits.

￢ennis Thc tcnnis courts at the Iく :ompas, 】 Bclevue andiZlatorog hotels and I)anica canlp site cost betwccn】 DIM6 and iD'M10 pcr hour lo hire.1lwo rackets andballs are about DM5.

hc wholctnp should take aboutfour

stnkes.′

hours.

scason on the lakc cxtends frorn March to Scptcnlbcr,dcpcnding on thc iEsh,whilc on

「

・ hc 13ohinJ area rnap available at thc I｀

tounst ofiicc for 500 SI「 lists sorne 10 excel‐

Sk‖ ng The maln Skiing StatiOn fOr BohiniiS 'Viogel(●

:723466),sornc 1540m above thc

lake's south― western corner and accessible

lcnt walks and hikes.The Alpinum and

by cablc car.With skiing up to 1840rn,thc

Alpisclub agencies can arrange guides and excursions forI)M30 to I)M40「 Ylou can also

Novcmbcrto carly May.Vogel counts 36kin

season can bc long, sOrnetilnes fronl late

country runs servcd

take guided clinlbs ranging in gradcs frorn I

of s

to VI(DM150 to DIM4(Ю ).Scrious stuff

by three chalrlifts ald five T― bな わws.As鳳

indeed¨

pass costs 3500/19,8(Ю SITお r a day/week, equiprnent costs about 20(X)SI■ ・a day and there is accorninodati()n nearthe cable car's

.

SIwimming&i3oating Soine ofthe beaches on Lakc BohinJ'Sno■ hern shore`rc rescrved lornude bathing in suinmci「 Fwo hotels have

slopes and cЮ

ss―

upper station atthe 63-bed S'た 」hotel(口 '721 471:fax 723 446),with singles at DiM35 to

thClr OWn ind00r SWimnung p001S(ShOuld theお g driVe yOu inSide),the ZatOЮ g ald

DM45 and doubles DM50to DM70.

Jezero.()utsiders can use the foriner seven days a week bctwcen 3 pnl and 8 Pnl and on Saturday and Sunday nlorning frorn 9 ann till noon. Adrnission is 6(X〕 SI「 ; for 40()SIT rnore you getto usc the sauna as well.

250m up the hill opposite the ZlatOrOg hOtel

Alpinuin and Alpinspo■

nt kayaks and

The cable car's lowcr station is abOut

in Ukanc,about5km iom Ribё cv Laz.The cable car runs cvcry half― hour year round,

exceptin Novembet fron1 7.3()anl to 6 prn (til1 8 Pm in July ald August).Adults pay l∝ Ю SIT br a return tickct wilc childκ n

“ canoes for DM5 or DM6 an hour or DM25 to DM30 a day;a kayak wiぬ 滅l equipment for thc day is DM30.As tt Bled,no motor

pay 70()SI・ Il.

boats of any kind are allowed on the lake. Alpisclub organises a nurnber of sporting

● 715860)is about lknl cast of BOhinJSka Bistrica.It has 23km ofslopes and 10km of

activities including rafting trips on the Sava

Cross― country runs with three chalr liis and

BohinjkaRiverd」 yat10am

md2pm md

`canyoning' through thc rapids Of thc Mostnica Gorgc,with participants safely stuffed into a neoprene body suit,lifej∝ and helinet for I)M80.

tt

The SinallCr and 10Wer(Skiing up tO 1480m)ski centre of Kobia(● 721 058 or

three T― ba」 rs.

Alpinsport rents dOwnhill ski equip― nlcnt for 1450/8700 SIT' a dayノ wcck and cross― country

gear for 1000/6000 SIT.

Snowboards are l100/6600 SIT a day/weck.

Gorcniska― Bohini 151 An hour's individua1l lesson at its ski school costs 250〔 )SIn

Private Roo『 ns'The tourist office can an・ange

private rooms in Ribё ev Laz,Stara

FuZina and neighbouring villages for as little

Paragilding AlpinsPOrt has a four‐

hour

intrOduCtOry paFaglidingCOurSe aVailablefOr

DiM50 and amuch moreintensc ivc― day one

less than three days and gucsts on their own

DM80,fЮ m Studor(1002m)DM65.

pay an additiond 20%).B“ 」【 fast usualy costs about lDIM6 1nore, though you are

Steam llrain '「 he 01dtiiner .Train run by

sOmeunles allowed tO use the kitchen yOur_

TWo ofthc bcst places b stay ac江 血e

S10VenlaturiSt haS SeVeral eXCurSiOnS in

sel■

suinmcrthatpa,sthroughBohinUSkaBistnca

A44`″ ″house(● 723262)at Rib6cv Laz

to or frorn Jesenice and Most na Soё l.For details about itinerarics, schedules and p

ces,contact Slovenlaturist('721032)

in Bohinり Ska Bist

ca.

13 ald P′

α″ぶ αr('723095),bctter known

br its fabulous ch∝ scs(s∝ Pl∝ es to Eat), at StaraFuを ma 179.The lattr o“ ers accom‐ rnodation in three roolns and one apartinent

br DiM20 per person.

Speciai Events ■le Cows'B滅 1(KravjiB」 )is awackyevent staged every year,on thc third weekend in septcmbct in a ield nOnh Of the zlatorOg hotel.Although it tradtiondly mな kedぬ e

Apartments for two people arranged 血rOugh thc tourist orice nin from DM47 to

DM63,depending on thc season.The Alpinum tavel agency has roolns and apat‐ ments,howcver they are ino責 ,expensive.

return ofthe cows to the valley aier a spnng

and suinHler on highland Pastures of up to 17(X)m,11le ball has now degenerated into a day-long knees― up of folk dance and inusic,

eating and drinking and haggling over

l Churい oi StJohn

baskets, paintcd bcchive pancls and bowis carved frolnぼ ee roots.Ofcourse,ifyou want to say you've seen cows dance,then by all

2測 plnsIЮ

:FtttttL

the Baplst

9 Tou“ t ofn∞ 10 Momator Su`"口 na“ et

3 JozoЮ Ho10: "Klosk

4■ olav Plonoeβ Statuo ll MK RosLurant&

5 Kompas Hotel 6 Bus Stop

鵠,1認 1潟 :Wenり

nleans go.

Ribこ ev Laz

On Midsummer's Night(Kresna Noё ;23 June),eVeryOne goeS Out On thel」 (e in bOatS wi■ candles and the“ 征e■ works.

“ Piaces to Stay Camlping The Bohini areahaS tWO Cainping grOunds. 'rhe large zJα ′ ο οg camp site “ (奮 723441)on the lake near the Zlatorog hotel is expensive, ranging froin I)M7 to DM16 depcnding on the scason(mid‐ Mayto

4▲

September).CanpCS get tO uSe the tenniS Ｕ 口︵ ・

couis atthc Zlatorog hotel. The threc― hcct=e Dα れたα (管

721055)

some2∞ m

west ofthebus stopln Bohi"ska Bistnca is open from Miay to September and

costs I)M8to lE)M10 to calmp or E}M70 (DM50 after three days)to rent one of the cα ´ αッα″s avalable on site.:Danica has its Own tennis cOuns.

日

０ ０ 刀 ｍ ２ ﹂∽ ス ＞

おrDM250.AtandemjumpfromVogelcosts

as DMll per person per night in thc low season and】 DM20 in July and August (though■ e“ 'sa 30%suК hargeお rsmys of

152 Goκ nJSka― Bohini SlovenijatunstinBohinjskaBis apa

ca」 so has

rnents.

Farrnhouses Severalfarmhousesin the area offer accominodation, including the fOur―

″晨 (● 723014)at house No 145 room Agο ′ in Staa Futtna and P″ A″ ′ぉ り (管 723509) “ Or six with three apatmcnts fOr m′ 0,fOur people at house No 31 in pictulに

Piaces to Eat κ,a rcstaurant and pizzeria nextto■ hc Alpinurn travel agcncy at house No 50 in

lllc iイ

sque Studo■

ι pension(1'723 403) Pension The S′ α´ vet

witll nine roonls on the Sava BohinJka R」

at Ukanc 128 nortll ofthc Zlatorog hotel,has singles with shower and breakね stfor DM40

to I)M50, depending on the scason, and doubles for DM64 to DM76.If you rc」 ly wantto gct away from it all without having to cliinb inountains,this is the place.

Ribё ev

Laz,isoneofthernostpopularplaces

to cat and a good place to hang out. ]Fyou've got wheels of any sort,head for Cο s,ぶ

′α a house No 87 in SEdnJa

``R“ 5km from Ribё ev I_′ az. It has Vas, about excellent home‐ cooked food, including spcc鯰 cular BohinJ tOut ald ttdova krapi, CreSCent‐ ShapCd dumplingS rnade frOFn

buckwheat and cheese. 11l Stara F.uを ina, the Cο sr滋 ´ 1イ j力 οッ c at house No l18 is a popular place and opens dally fronl ll anl till■ 1ldnight.But if you want somcthing light, hcad for P′α″ぶα″ oppositc thc Alpmc Dairy Muscuin a house No 179.It spccidiscs in home‐ madc dairy

products―

ha・ dBohinJ

Cheese,a so■ ,strong―

tastingchecsccallcd mohant,cottagccheesc,

(1日

curd Pie,sour nulk etc― and you and a filiend can taste a nurnber ofthenlfor about 700 SIT or rnake a rneal ofcheesc and differenttypes

crn shorc at Ribё ev Laz 60,is not very nice.

of grain dishcs(6∞ SⅡ )likc ttgmci mde

HOteiS Bohini haS nO ShOrtage Of h。

IS but

′ : the cheapest, the 49-roonl ,Pο グ ツ ♭g′ ο′ “ .723461;fax 723 Z146)on the lake's south―

It has singles with shared showers for DM33

from buckwhc■ ,jcSprenJ iom barlcy or

to lDM47 per person,dcpcnding on the

moё nik from white corn.Othcr dishes aval_

)M46 to lDM74. scason,and doubles for】 二 In iRibё ev I´ az propet you have a clloice of three hoじ ls.The 50-room J`z`^ο (奮 723

able include Strudji(checse dumplmgs;7(Ю sIT)and jota(bean`stcw'c。 。 ked with sat pork:600 SIr).PlanSar is opcn′ ruesday to

375; fax 723 446), used by the(〕 estapo dunng WⅡ ,is the inost centr」 ― a few

Sunday frorn 10 anl to about 8 prn but only at weekends in winter lt's a taste sensation and llighly rccornrncndcd. Thc Zο J"ッ αG″ α4at GraJska ulica 14 in

steps from the tounst ofice and thc lakc at

housc No 51.Single roolns with shower and

brcakfast start a DiM69 and DIM89 and doubles atIE)M98 andI)M138.′ he 59-roonl B′ J′ ι ッ ι(● 723331:fax 723 684),on a hill “ about 80()m slouth of thc Jezcro at Ribё ev I｀

L′

az 65, charges a rninimum of I)M40 to

BohinJska Bistrica about 2001n east of thc

・1loinaを Godec Museurn,is a standard Slo― venian restaurantin an old inanor hOuse、 vith set nlenus frOrn 99()srr and pizzas.It's open dally fronl ll anl ull mi〈

inight.Anothcrplace

I)M56 for singles and I)M60 to I)M92 for doublcs.The 55‐ roorn κο″t′ as(.日 .723471; ねx723161),along thc road to Bohiniska

With pizza and cheaper sct menus(frol■ 400 SIT)in BOhinJSka BiStrica is thc Bisrrι ε αat T'rg Svobodc l.

Bistnca north― cast of the post ofice at No 45, has singles for lDヽ 456 to I)M76 and

11lc if`″ ′ οr supernlarket at Ribё cv Laz 49 is open `α wcckdays frOm 7 antto 6.30 prn

doublcs for I)M72to E)Ml12,depending on

and to 5 prn on Saturday.

the season. (E)ut ofthe way and pleasant forthatis the 43-room Z′ α g(奮 723381;fax 723 384), "^οat housc No 64 with lots of a hotelin Ukanc

Entertainlment 'I｀

he only latc‐ night vcnuc in these patts is

bA″ ,ο r,a disco ncxtto thc MK:Restau―

activities available. Singles stan at I)M67

C′ ′

and I)M85,doubles at I)M94 and I),M130.

rant and Alpinurn travel agency.

Goκ nJska― Kranjska Gora 153 Things to Buy The traditlond cra■ of BohinJ is a sm」 1, handcan7cd woodcn pipc with a silver covcr

クリbr SmOking tObaCC0 0r レ ング″ ヴぶ “ whatever.The red thing isn'tso casy to ind rgο

and can tell you which rnasters arc still

ah」 dozen kllometκ s to thc west and 「 west n■ ght help explain that imprcs― nOnh―

sion.Butthcre's aclinical fecl hcl℃ ■oo― one that sPCaks、 ith a lleutonic acccnt ratherthan a Slavic one― and service staff anじ sorne of

the rnost unfricndly I've cncOuntered any= wherc in the count:y.

carving.

Gemng There&Away Bus Bus scrviccs from Ribё cv Laz to巧

Kra■ ska cOra is situated a 810m in thc ub―

ljana via Bled,RadOvljica,KranJ,the Zlatorog hotel and iBohinJSka lBistnca〔 rc

Sava I)olinka Vallcy separating the Karavanke range■ Om thc Julian Alps.The

very frequent.Therc are also abOutSix buscs

valley has been an important cOrninerCial rOutc betwccn GorenJska and Koroこ ka for

a day tO B。 ほ可ska Bistrica via Stara Futtna,

ccnturies: the 853■ 1 1pass at Ratcё c is tlle

Studor and SrednJa Vas.

From■ lid― Junc to Septcmber a busleavcs Bled bus station evcry day at around 10 ain fOr savicawacrf」 1,returning a about12.45 pnl.Tlle One_way fare is 250 SI・ ■ Train Lそ よc Bohi■ is not on a tmin line, though iBohinJSka lBistllca is on the sccniC One lin

ng Jcsenicc(28km;35 minutes)and

lowest Alpine link betWCCn the Sava and Dravav」 lcys.The irstrailway in Core刊 Ska ―frOm巧 ub」 ma tO TaWiSiO(Trb2)in lt」 y ― inade use of this pass when it opcned in 1870. 31ranJSka(〕 ora was Just a s■lall valley villagc callcd Borovζ ka Vas until the late 19th century,、 vhen skiing enthuSiaStS bCgan

to nock here, Planica, the cradle of ski

Bled JczerO tO the nOrth‐ cast and Most na

jumpingsouthofRatcё c,helpcdput metOWn

SOё i and Nova Gorica(61km;1%hours)to the south― west.Up to eighttralns a day pass through 13ohinJSka Bistrica in each dlrcction.

On thc world map earlicr this century.

Frorn Nova(〕 orica you can carry on another

KranJskaGorais atits best underablanket of snow,butits surroundings arc wonderful to explore in warmer months as well.「 rhe

Tc trains to ltaly.

possibilities for hiking and mountaineering are endless in Triglav National Park on the Юwn's southcrn outsk」 rts,and ttcrc alcn't

Car Alpinum in Ribё ev Laz rents cas.

many travelcrs who won't be imprcsscd by

40knl south‐ Castto Se2ana frorn where thcrc

Ge"ing Around F'rorn inid‐

Junctomid― Septernbct abus runs

frOm Bohinjska Bisdca via Rbё ev L2 to

a trip ovcr the VrSiё Pass(161lm), the gateway to the Soё a V011ey and the province of Priinorska.

houノ day.

Orientation Kranjska Gora sls at thcお ot of Mt Vitranc (1631■ 1)and in thc shadow of two higher peaks(Razor and Pris● nik/Prisank)that reach up to 2600rn. Rateё c and Planica, famous for ski」 unlping charnpionships,are some 6k_nl tO the west while Jasna Lake,

KRANJSKA GORA

Natond Park,is 2km south.

Savica Waterfall.F'rom Monday to Saturday thcrc's one dcparturc in the nlorning and three in the al■ernoon.C)n Sunday,the sched―

ule is increased by one early inorning run.

Alpinsport and the Kornpas hotel rent bicycles and l■ ountaln bikes forI)M5/20 per

KranJska Gora's doorway to Trigiav

∫ κο ′′イ28θ ο ピ′●θ6イ ・ ′ο ・ ′ο ρ28α )・ αlに αε

The tOwn Of`Cttniolan Mountttn',40km

KiranJska(3ora is a very sinalltown with Solne unattraCtiVC FnOderll buildingS arOund

north― west

its perlphery and a nlore rornantic older core

of Bled,is the largest and best

equippcd ski resort in thc country, but

a10ng Borovこ kacesta.Asyou walk along this

０ ０ ” ｍ Ｚ ﹂∽ バ ＞

thesc days,but the tourlst offiCe Sells thern

SOmehOWitiuStdOeSn'tSeem S10Venian・ The fact that the ltalian a″ グAustnan borders are

154 GorenJska― Kra]ska Gora

l Kompas Hotel

¨

2 Kompas Travol A9oncy ll

¨

7 Hose‐

¨

20 Lipa Ponslon

¨

50o"niska BanIは 6 Jullana Travel A"n呼

Dttwn Canage

8 Kmniska Coa S閻 く Ｙ Ｏ つＺ ロ エ ０ ０

Sdi●ol&SKB

Banka

鳳     ｎ ｒ ａｉ       ｂ ｍ ”      ロ ］ 腱     “ ︲

¨¨

pLACES TO STAY

Li2nlok Houso&Musoum Bぃ s

Sbps TCC Shopping CentЮ

2. 02!

甑幣

“

恥切 ′  ｍ” ノｂｒ

S()

節釘

銅 鉤

”‘

回 ゆ

Kraniska Cora

street you inight see tanncrs clipping and scraping sheepskins bchind One Ofthc farin‐

Money SKB:Banka has a branch with an ATM ncxtto the skisch001 at Borovζ

houses.「 he chairlifts up to thc ski s10pes On

kacesta 99a.Itis open wcckdays only from 8.30 ain

Vittanc are at the wcstcrn end Of BOrOvζ ka

till noon and 2 to 5 pm.GoК

cesta.

in the building behind the ski school and

I｀

The tOWn'S buS StatiOn GuSt a COuple Of

njska Bmkais

south― west of the entrance to the lP

sank

stoPs and a shclter)is 150m wcst ofthe big TGC shopping centre atthc inain entrance to the town frorn the n10tOrway.

hOtcl.Itis open weekdays from 9 to ll.310

infornlation

office.

anl and 2 to 5 prn and on Saturday from 8 to

ll am.You can dso change money■ the tourist office(3%commission)ald pOst

￢OuriSt O“ iCe The tourist oricc(● 881 768;fax 881 125),with rather disinteested staff,is at■

ёarjeva cesta 2,atws“ps

east

ofthc Prisank hotel.It has quite a few uscful

POSt&Communications Krandska Gora's neW post ofice,next to the lErnonamerkur

Supcrmarket on Borovζ ka cesta,is open

handouts on various activities and sells inaps

weekdays from 8 ain to 7 pm and on Satur―

and guideS tO the SurOunding aC器

day till noon.During the high scasOns(July and August,and DeccmbcrtO MaК h),血 e

ing T

(inClud―

glav Nationd P=k).From Dcccmbcr

to March and in July an(l Augustthe ol磁 cc is open Monday to Sal■ lrday fron1 8 anlto 2 pnl and 3 to 7 pm and on Sunday frorn 9 ain to l prn.In April,C)ctobcr and Novemberthe daly hours are 8 am to 3 pm.

hOurS On Saturday may be extended to 7 pm.

Trave:Agenc:es Most of thc big agencies ae repesented in Kra■ ska Gora,including

Emona Globtour(奮 881055)on thc comer

GorenJska― Kranjska Gora 155 of Iく oroζ ka

cesta at BorovSka cesta 90 and

Kompas(奮 881661)at Borovζ ka

cesta 98-

LiznJek IIouse is open year round,except in April and Novenlber,'rucsday to Saturday

100.In season,(310bt()uris open Monday to

from 10 am to 5 pm(to 4 pm on Saturday

saturday frorn 8.30 aFn t0 5 pm and on

and Sunday).Adinission costs 250/2α 〕SIT.

sunday fronl 10 ain to 3 pnl.lKompas'hours

are 7.30 anto 7 pm Mondayto Saturday and

Church ofthe Assumption

fron1 8 ain tili noon on Sunday.

While the date on this baroquc-looking church,in the naineless lit」 e square with the

Lizniek House

giant linden OppOsite lBOrOvSka ccsta 78,

one Ofthe very few sightsin KranJska Gora, this late 18th century house at iBorovζ ka cesta 63 contains quite a good collection of hOuSeh。 ld OЦ CCtS and furniShingS peCuliar

says 1758,the net vaulting ofthe nave insidc reveals is truc age― the early 16th century. MOst Ofthe church is,in fact,late Gothic,and is even oldcr the belfつ ′

tO this apea of GorenJSka.But don't for a minute think that this`folk baroquc'house was typical ofthc placc and tirnc;itbelongcd

Skling ・ he snow‐ covcred slopes of thc Sava I｀

rich landOWner and was probably considered a palace in rural

Dolinka Valcy,ninning for almost llkin

Slovenia 200 years ago.Among the various exhibits are some excellent exanlPles of

are effectively one big ski piste.lButthe rnaln

trousseau chests covered in f01k paintings, sorne 19th century icons painted On glass and a collection of lincn tablCC10thS(the Vdley

Podkoren,3km b the west,with skijumping

was famed brits ntt and its weaving). In the man room aretwo shuttc“ d`safes' lor valuables;onc was rncant fOrthe l■ an of

aryノ early

to an il■ 1■ enscly

the house and one forthe WOman.The tiny

・ ireplace was intended for light only. he Vas uscd to chinlney― less `black kitchen' ヽ I｀

snloke incat.

Antique carriages and a sledgc arc keptin

the massive barn in the back, wllich once houscd R)く )d storcs as wcll as pigs and sheep.

The stable reselwed for cows bclow the man

building now contalns a memOrial r00rFi dedicated to the life and work of Josip Vandot(1884-1944),a w ter born in KranJ‐ (lι た shcphcrd boy who,togetllcr`c,thc with

ska Gora who pcnnecithc saga of」 do― gooder

his little playrnate Mo」 Ca and llls trusty dog

Vlolkec,battles the evil poacher and kidnap― pcr iBedanec. It's still a favourite arnong

S10Venian kidS(and WaS made intO SeVer」 pOpula■ lmS),but he'S a bit SaCChTine br nly tastes.Kekec has becorne sorncthing of a syコ nbol for KranJska Gora,and there'sa

from Gozd Matujek to Rateё e and Plmica, ski centres are in Iく ranJSka(〕 ora and concentrated at Planlca.Tlle season usually lasts■ om inid― Dcccmber to latc Fcbru‐

March,and therc are snow cannons

for making aninci」 snow on certaln s10pcs. Skiing in ICranJska Gora is on the eastern side of Vitranc,and sonle runsjoin up with thosc at Podkoren on Vitranc's northerll faCe

Ю帥 」titu“ ofあ out 16∞ m」 隆mjskaGora cOuntstwo chalrliis and 10 tows;Podkoren, Icn'sヽ ハ:。 nd(cup slal。 .l and sitc of the、 ′ Giant S皿 om Compemon(Vitranc Cup)in iatc l)eceinbcr,has another two chair lits and ive tows.Generally,skling is easier at

Kranjska Gora mal at Podkoren,whec thc twO rnost dificultslopes― Ruteё and Zelenci ― are located. In all, the two ccntres have 30krn of pistcs and 40kin of cross― country courses. Thc ski」 umping ccntre at P:anica across

the mOtOrway from Rtteё e has six Jumps with lengths of 25,120 and 1801■ 1.The shon

ft ncar the Dom iPlanica hut reaches an dtitude of 9α )rn.Thcre are also good pos― sibilities at Planica for tobogganing and for cross_country skling in thc Tainar valley.

woodcn statue ofthe tyke outside the tounst ofice on Borovζ kacesta.()ddly,thc niane of

The SkiJumping World(3harnplonships are

a gay publiCatiOn in巧 ublma beaS the

mark was reached hcre by Austnan Josef Bradl in 1936 and thc 200m one by the

name」 (lι た `ε

.

held hcre every ycar in March。

「Fhe 100m

156 Go“ nJska― KranJska Gora Slovenian teenage chanlpion PHn10を in 1994.

Peterka

Tarnar hutis open every day and has a res―

taurant and acconllnodadon for 70 people.

Ski passcs br Kranjska Gora″ odko“ n are DM38 a day for adults and DM27 1or

Fronl here,the Vrも :O Pass is icss than thrcc hours away on f00t.

children, with a full seven days cOsting

Another great walk from Kranjska Gora, and quite an easy one,takes yOu north and then eastthrough meadOws and Pasturc land

IE)M216/152.Needless to say,theR3 are a lot of places offering ski tuition and renting cquiprnent,butit's besttO suck with the tried

tO the traditiOnal VillagC Of Srednii Vrh and

and tiue.Both Kompas and the Bcmik Ski Ser ce Centre(● 881470)at BoЮ vも ka

Gozd Martu:iek in a couplc of hours.The

ccsta 88a nextto EInona Globtour have skis and other equipinent ior hire;a cornplete kit

Martuljek range of mountans tO the south

should cost about I)M20 a day orI)M10()a weck.:Benlik opens daily in season from 8 anl to 6 prn.For skiing and snowboarding

lessons contact the Kra■ ska Gora Ski School(● 881385)opposite the post office

vicws of the Velika F)isnica Valley and the are b“ athtaking.From GozdiMmuljek,it's only 9kmctttto M● srana,thc starting point fOr the nOrthern apprOaCheS tO'I:riglaV(See

bOXed tcxt entitled Clinibing Mt Triglav

on lBorovSka cesta.It does both Alpine and

from Mqs"ana).The Trigiav Museum Coト lection(Triglavska Muze」 Ska Zblka)in an old inn at THglavska ccsぬ 50in M● stana

cross‐ country

dcals with the carly histOry Of mOuntι

tuition in groups and On an

individual basis.:For one― on― one instrucion,

ing and is open inid― May to inid―

uneer―

Septcmber

expcct to pay about I)M3(); it'sI)ヽ 145 1or

frOm 10 anltiu noon and 2 to 5 pnl dally,

two people.

except Monday.

Hiking The area around Kranjska Gora is exccnent for hikes and walks ranging from thc very

Other Activities Four hotels in iKranJSka(:〕 ora have indOOr

easy to the dificult.()ne of the best refer― ences av lable is I物 ′ ″″gj″ ′ ル ル Jj′ ″A′′S

Lanx(Borovも ka cesta 99),the Ko:npas,thc

(UK￡ 8.99)by Simon Brown and published

LCk(Vrζ iSka cesta 38)and the Rclax

by Cicerone Pressin the UK.It」 so includes

(VrSiSka cesta 23). You can hire One of

excursions from Bled and Bohinj in

SWirnrning pools and saunas,including the

several tennis cou■

GorenJska and Bovec in Pnmorska.Anothcr possible sOurce is thc dated J“ ′ ′ α″ A′′S (UK￡ 10.95)by Robin G Collomb published by lヽ 4est

Col Publishing(Reading,Berk―

ShirC).

Betwccn PodkOrcn and Plallica is a bcau‐ tiful area called lZeienci with a turquoisc― C。 10ured lake,the source ofthe Sava River.

iou can easily walk hcre on a path frOrn ヽ 【 Iく

[ranJSka (〕

ora via POdkoren and on tO

RateCe― bOth

attractive Alpine vi■ ages with

micdievd churches,wooden houses and tra‐

ditonal hayracks_in about two hOurs. If you'rc still willing to carry On,therc's a well ma‐ ked ttail via PIanica to Dο (●

″,ッ πa“

876055; 11081n)in the Tamar

7“

Va‖ `″

ey

HOrSe― draWn

ls at thc Iく

oinpas hotel.

carnages(奮 881 082 or

● 881241)seating four pcople can be hired frorn the stand behind the ski school on

OrOVζ kacesta.Prices are 1500 SIT fOratl■ p to Jasna Lake and back and 350()SIT 10r one tO Planica.lHorscs for nding are avallable at [〕

the Porentov Dom(● 881436)just cast Of KranJSka COra On the man road at Ciё Te 2. Fishing is pOssible in the Sava I)olinka and Jasna Lake but as」 ways it's not fOr the budget― conscious.A total of three lish(the

dally linut frOm thC SaVa)Will COSt you DM80.See Kolmpas if you want a ishing liccnce lor the rivcr and the(:〕 OstiSё e Jasna for one fOr the lake.

Enginecrs are conducting sOrne explor―

6krn to the south.Thc walk is spcctacular,in

atory drilling near the lPrisank hc)tcl;in thc

the shadow of MoistЮ vka(2366m)to the

nOttOO‐ diStant futuc Kranjska Gora may boastits Own ther■ lal spa.

eaSt and Ja!ovec(2645m)to the sOu■

.The

Goreniska― KranJska Gora 157

００コｍＺ﹂∽バ＞

Piaces to Stay ´ camping rhe c10sest canlping ground to た(● 880120)neT the Kraniska GOra is Sρ 」 Spik hotel in GOzd Martuliek,4kln east of

able in Ratete.Emona Globtour dso has

KiranJska Gora.′ 「 he cight‐ hectare site is on thc left bank ofthe Sava I)olinka below thc peaks of tlle Martulek range,and there'S an

hNe tO hcad Out of Kraniska Gora in thc

outd。 。r swirnnl己 ng p。 。1。 n the grOunds.′ rhe Overnightrate per pcrson is 850 to l100 SI′

r,

depending on the season.

pnvate roonls.

Farmhouses lf you wantto go rur」

,you'11

dlrection of】 Rateё e.(D)n the Planica sidc of

血c rOad,血 e κναbJぶ α″house(● 876113)at Rtteё e 12o has■ lree rOoms.Sた ♭′(● 881 “No 78 in 786),with four rooms,is at hOusc Podkoren.Both are open dl yc`ェ

881297)

Private RoornS The tourist office has

たα pension(● PensiOns T'he βο′

singles for E)M17 to I)M30 and doubles for ll)M30 and I:)M52, depending on the cate― gory and the tirne of year.Therc's a 10% supplclnent for stays of lcss than three nights. Its apartments for twO people run

at BOrOv`ka ccsta 71 has rooms with shower

for DM30 to DM35 per person.The attrac‐ 」vc L″ a pcnsion(● 881101)■ Koroこ ka cesta 14 is a littic inore expensive at E)M30 to I)M40 per person.

betwcen DM50 and DiM66.If the ofice is closed oryou wantto check outthe premises before you hand over your rnoney,therc are alotofhouses WithrOOmS aVallable(100k fOr SOι

,7,″ ,′

rr“

SignS)in the deVe100`Or Z′ Nase」 e`JSl劉 ka Cemcm south of mentcaled thc TGc centre.The Иグ,c house(● 881 ″,`″ rat No 375)at No 19 and mcsm」 lα′α″

Hoteis KiranJska Goracounts about 10 hotels thtt are within easy w」 鳳ng distance of thc ski liis.Among the cheapestis the pension― like」 (lο ′ ″iた

(●

:881564;fax 881 859),one of

only tllrcc private hotcls in Slovenia.It has

140 to 15 dOuble r00rns cOsting from I) DM50 per person,depending on the season,

23 are espccidly good deds.There are dso

and is at BOrovSka cesta 75,in the centre of

lots of pnvate rooms and apa:t:nents avall‐

town.

158 GorenJska― Triglav National Park Thc P′ ι sα れ たhotcl(●

881472;fax 881

359)has a tot」 of220 bcds in two buildings

at Borov6ka cesta 93 and 95.Singlcs range

from DIM48 to DlM80,with doubles iom

DM68 o DM126. く Ｙ Ｏ ﹁Ｚ Ш 匡 ０ ０

Singlcs at the 156-room κο ′αs(雷 881 “ 98-100, 661:fax 881 176),BorovSka cesta KrattskaCora's biggcst hotel,sta■

at DIM66

and DIM92 with doublcs■om DM102 to I)M154.

Getting There&」 ヽlway BuS BuSCS dCpalt icquently for Ratcё c‐ PlaniCa(Via POdkOrcn)and Jesenice and OnCe an hOur br巧 ubtana via MoJStana, Jesenice,Lesce,Radov」caand Kranj.0■ er deStlnatiOnS includcヽ ′ 11lach in Austl■ a(dally

during the summeO,Tawisio in ltay(twice a daヌ except Sunday,at 9.35 and ll.45 anl)

鑢 d Zagrebin CЮ ma(one a day at4.25 am). 〈 :)n Saturday and Sunday in Scptenlber and dally fronl late June to August,a bus

from Liubtana links Kranjska Gora with

Places to Eat C)nc of the chcapcst places for a quicki nleal

in Kranjska Gora is the κα″ッ αれた′Bお ′ ″

behind GorenJSka Banka with plzza,pasta and simple grills.Morc pizza is avalablc at thC Lι i,α penS10n'S10Vely glaSSed―

in Ca“ ‐

rcstaurant■ Koroζ ka ccsta 14,open dally ±oln 10 am t。 1l p:n,and at theノ И ιs′ ο opposite at lヽ lo 16.The latter has dozens Of“ lα

vaneties of pizza and a goOd choicc of ish dishes.■ Ъe restaurant at the iBο ′ たα pension at BorovSka ccsta 71 has sct rncnus(includ―

ing rOaSt SuCkling pig and iSh diSheS)br 9α)SIT.It's opcn daly t0 1l pin.

′ rhc restaurant at the x〔 。r″ fた , 。nc of

Kranjska Gora's betcr cateries with bits Of

paned dOwry chests On the walls,serves gniled mCatS(peppCr Steak a Spccidity)fOr about l()0()SIT that shOuld kccp you going for a while.

The hugc[l′ ″οれαЙ η r supernlarkct `rた “o■ BOrOvも ka across■ om thc Prisank hotcl cestais open MOnday to Saturday from 7 ain to 7 pm.11le D′ ′ Jた α ′ ιsa suDernlarket in the

TGC centc atNaseljcSIavkaCcmeta33 has a better sclection of meats,cheeses and fruit.

Itis open Monday to Saturday frOrn 8 am to

7 pm and on Sunday to ll prn.

Bovec via thc Vrζ

iё

Pass. The first bus

dcpallts at 7.30 anl and the last one lcaves

Bovec br Kranjska Gora at 5.30 pm.

Car Emona Globtour Кnts cTs. Getting Around Bemik,KOmpaS and Julijana(● 881325),a small travel agency in a kiosk west of the Prisank hotel,all rent bicycles.IBcnlik's rates

are 400 SITper hour,1000 SI′ 10r halfa day and 1600 SIT br a mll day.Julijana's bikes I｀

cost a bit nlorc.

TRIGLAV NAT:ONAL PARK

´ r.hough therc are two dozen rcgional parks

in Slovenia, this is thc country's Only gazetted national park and itincludes ahnost a11 0fthe Julian Alps lying in Slovcnia.11lc

CentrCpieCC Of thC park iS, of coursc, Mt Triglav,buttherc are lmany Othcr peaks herc

reaChing abovc 200()m as well as ravines, canyons, rivers, strearns, forests an(1 1pas― tures. 1｀ riglav iNational Park (■ 'riglavski

Nな odni Park)is esPCCially nch in fauna and nOra, inCluding b10SSOFnS like the pink riglav 10se, blue Clusi's gcntian, yellow haWk'S beard,Julian pOppy and purple i乙 ois T｀

bell■ owcr.

Entertainlmlent

Thc Dお εοたca

The idea for a park was irst rnooted in C′ ″b just east of the Church

of the Assurnption on 13orovζ ka cesta is Kra■ ska Gora's mOst pOpular iatc^night VCnuC・

The〃 Jr

cas」 ″ο κ″ α″Sた αGο ′ α

881333)at thc Relax hotei sOuth ofthe tOヽ Vn Centre,On the road to Jasna Lake,is (雪

1908 and lで ,alised in 1924,when 14 hcctares in the'I・ riglav l´ akes valley wcre put under 鯰mporaly proに ctiOn.The Tca wasrenamed Trigiav NatiOnal Park in 1961 and cxpandcd

20 years latcr to includc rnost of the castern

open from 6 p:TI Monday to Friday and froin

Julian Alps. ・ 110day the park covers about 84,000 hectarcs and stretches nOrtll frorn

3 pnl atthe wcckends.

Kranjska Gora tO T。 lmin in the south and

GorenJska― TriglaV National Park 159 frorn thc ltalian bordcr on thc、 vcst alnlost tO Blcd in thc cast.・ hc bulk Ofthc park lics in I｀

Gorcnjska province,but oncc you've

pOint Of Jalovec(2645m)in thc nonh.But thc Triglav National Park is not only about ´ clinlbing inountains. 「 hcrc are casy hikcs

Pass and begun thc desccnt into thc Soё a Vallcy, you've

through beautiful valleys, fOrCSts and

cntcrcd iPrimorska.

arc thc Alpinc Association Of.arο Slovcnia's ′″」Parた たJⅣ l:50,000-scalc rr」 g′ αν∫

′ esollle VrSiё crOssed thc a、 、

rk lcad to

innumerable pcaks and suminits beSidc

′

rriglav,and favourite clirnbs include those

to Mangart(26781n)on thc ltalian bOrdcr (thc 12knl road that dcscends to thc PredCl

pass is the highest road in S10Venia),thC sharp dge of Razor(2601m)and thc necdle―

see Bohin,Mop

Mol"

Julian AlPS&

Triglav National P ark ▲

(looo sIT)and Frcytag and Berndt's

たar′ ι ″Иを,1ど ι″ ,sc力 ′Aιρι l:50,000ノ ンι ′ hc park has a numbCr of rules and regu― lations and n10St Of thc `don'ts'arc aS Clcar as′rrigiav On a clcar day: no littering, n。 .

I｀

plucking flo、 vers, no sctting fires ctc. :But

００■ｍ２一０バ＞

Exccllent iTlarked trails in thc p′

″st。 。.・ rwO exccllent rnaps to consult inead。 、

160 Gore■ ska― T glav National Pttk also remember that this is a very fragile landscape,and there is no calnping,lmoun―

くＹ∽つ２Ш匡０●

tain bikes″ e banncd"Om tr」 Is aldthe pak tradition is to greet everyOne you pass.'I｀ hat can get a bit tiresorne after a while but a SimplC`Dο ♭ι′グ´″'(`Hel10')and/Or a Sinilc wili sufice.Ylou nlay noticc that the rOads nlnning through thelPark aren'tin such great

′ shape. rhe park coinmission refuscs t。 upgmdc them forお a that h」 f of Europe would descend on this little pa・

adisc.

For more infonnation about Mt Triglav, see the Bled and BohinJ Sections.

the south the vallcys of thc Soё a alld MIInara rivcrs pointthe way tO Pnmorska. A hair― raising descent of about 10knl ends juSt Sho■ ofthe Juilus Kugy Monument.

Kugy(1858‐ 1944)was a piOncer cliinbcr and author whose books eu10gise thc beauty of thc Julian Alps.He is shown incditaing on the Trenta Mountlins tO thc north―

wcst. Fronl here yOu can take a side trip along the SOё aTrail(SoSka Pot)ofabout 2.5km north‐

westto the sour`x)。 fthe s。 こa niver(Izvir

Kraniska Cora to SoCa Vla‖ ey Onc ofthe nlostspectacular― andeasy― trips in Triglav Naiond Pa・ k is simply tO fo1low thc paved road,open May to(Dctobcr.■ om Kraniska Gora via thc VrSiё

mountain hut is 50rn away.′ Ib the west is Mojs■ ovka,to thccast Pnsoj k/Risank;tO

Pass tO Bovec,

Soこ e). :Fed by an underground lake, thc rlvulct bursts fronl a dark issure before dropping 15m■ o thc rocky bcd■ om where

it begins its longjoumcy to the Ad

atic.

Notlong a■ crjoining the man Юad agan

yOu'1l paSS the entrance to the Aipinum

about 50kin to the south― west and just outside the park.Between June and Scptem_ bCt yOu can do the tl■ P by bus. At other

Juliana, a bOtanical garden established in

tiincs,you'1l need your Own transpo■ a car or mountaln bike.

Thc Arst stop from Kranjska Gora is

and Ka・aVanke)as wcll as the Karst.The elongated rnOuntain village of Trenta (662m)is abOut 4km Ю the sOuth.

Jas,■ a Lake,about 2k1ln south of town.It's a bcautrul,」 mostt。 。_bluc giaci」 lake with

guldcs;shephcrds and w00dsrnen made the

￨―

be it

1926 and showcasing the flora of all of

Slovenia's Alps(Julian,Kamnk,Savitta

Trcnta has a long tradition of mountdn

white sand around its riin and the littic Pivnica RiVer Πowing alongside.A bronze

irSt aSCentS Ofthe Julian Alps possible lllthe

statue of that irascible old goat ZlatorOg

commemorated in a plaquc just be10w the

stands gua:rd.

botanical garden.lNa I´ ogu,in the upper part

As you zigzag tOjust over l100m,yOu'11 come to the Russian(Chapei crected on the

of Trenta, is the gatcway for thc eastcrn

site where mol℃ tha1 4(Ю Russian war pns―

OnerS Were buned in an avalanche in March

1916.The POWs were in the process Of building the rOad yOu`re travelling On,sO sparc a inOment in reinernbrance.・ The little wooden church is on a snlall hill and very Sinlple inside. Scrvices in nlcnlory of thc

ViCdmS Were held Jointly by the Russian arch and thc archbishOo Of l′ iubliana. A10」 Zij SutttT,お r tte irSttime hcご in f994. ・ he road rncandcrs past a cOuple of huts aS it climbs thc next tw kilomettes to Vrも iё ,atl■

I｀

Pass(161lm),about 13km"om Kranjska

Gora.The area was the scene of ierce fight‐ ″ ing duringヽ ヽ vvI,and a high perccntage Of

thedead lay Wherc theyた 11(at1525m thcに 's

a military Cemetery).The■ ёar]ev Dom

19th century and thelr bravery and sklll is

approach ofT'riglav_a rnuclllcss frcquentcd and steeperclimb than inost ofthc Othes.It's abOut afOur―

hOurW」 k■ Om heretothe Doliё

Saddle (2 164rn)and the 71″ 老αぶたα ′ ごα rnOuntain hut(rnobile ● 0609-614 780), `ο where youjoin the rouc iOm SavicaWatcr_ f」 i neFr BohinJ tO the Dο ″ P′ α″J滋 1(mObile ● 0609‐ 614773)and

Triglav.In 10wcr

TrCnta at housc No 34 thc Dο (●

=“

′ α

`″ 065-89330)contains thc Triglav “

Nationd Pak lnfOnnation Centre and the

Trenta MuSeum (500/350/250 SIT fOr adultS/StudentS/Children)dediCatCd tO the T'renta guides, the pioneers Of Slovenian dpinism and the pak's■ ora and fauna. The equally 10ng Village of Soё a(480■1) is another 8.5knl down the river. The

ChurCh Of St JOSeph frOnl the carly 18th

GoК nJska― Triglav Nttiond Pak 161 ｀

Юoms with

century has paintings by・ Ilonc Kralj(1900-

おrthree is 21CЮ SIT,1500 SΠ

75).Completed in 1944 as war sill raged in central Europe,one of thc frescoes depicts Michaelthc Archangel struggling with Satan

fourto six beds and al,cd in tlle attic is only

ald the 10es Of humality,Hller and Musso‐

1050 SI′ r. Bcyond the 'riё arJcv Dom at 1688misthcPο ぶraパ た,Dο (管 061-313168

“ 610029). in LJubliana or mobile宙 0609‐ Nearthe sourcc ofthe SOё altiVer at 886rn,

slovenim nag.outside stands a lovely old

ι々νjr“ Sο ごι(● 064‐ 81291)is the κοdα ′′

linden tree and oppositc,thrOugh thc potato nelds,the naTowing soё a nOws past.

opcn frorn May to(Dctobcr. 1｀

renta and Soё a count a nurnber Of

`ι for a over100king Jasna Lake is a great place me」 Or a仕セよ before pushng on forie VrSiё

び」 ″α(rnObile carnping grounds,inCludingBο ′ 口 615966),open all year,at′ rrenta '0609‐ ,,α ε rο ′ 60a and charging 770 SIrperperson;」 ζ (雪 065‐ 89318)at Soё a 8 opcn May to Sep― tember and charging 675 to 805 SI・「 ; and 」 (ο ′ ,′α(● 065‐ 89338)at Soё a 38 open Junc tO c)ctObcr and charging 600 to 80()SI・■ K:α ″ 7,κ Jj″ (● 065-89356),about 4.5k■ l to

Pass and pOints bcyond.A lovely tcrrace a

thc south‐ wcst of Soё a at thc st`ut of the

Bovec, the recreational centre of the upper sOё a Valley(GorttC Posottc),is 12km wcst Of Soё a.For detalls,scc the fol‐ lowing Pnmorska chapter.

Piaces to Stay&Eat The Cο s″ ぶ

Jα sれ α

the back is opcn in thc warnlcr months. Thcrc are scvcrd mountain huts on orncそ r ,, ″α 晰 ざ Иi力 οッDο ′ the VrSiё road. ノ (1日

'064-881 190), a hut With food and“

accOrninOdation at 1085■ l on thc VrSiё

road

andjust bebκ the Russian Chapcl,is open

mOst Ofthe year.・ he next one― at 1525■ 1I｀

0609-610031),

ル″ κο is Eヴ α

`a(mObile● 霧 ガ Dο 」so open dl yea■

″α″ζ

'ど“ `α on“ the pass, (rnObile● 0609-634571),nght

`ツ

is Opcn from Mayto()ctober.Abed inaroorn

Iコ

cpena V1lley,is open May to Septcnlber

and charges 750 to 850 SI・ 「

.

οg(雪 065‐ 89382),a moun― “ 53 that rnarks the stan of `α at■ `ο lrenta taln hut Kiο

ZJα

the eastenl approach of Mt Triglav,is open all year

The staff at the Dorn Trenta(● 065-89 jν αた ″ο″S and 330),Trenta 34,can book′ ′ J“ s(● 065-89355) α ′pα r`″ ,“ な.P′ ″て,ο ″J″ ′ at house No 31 in Soё a has accollllnodation and there's a decent rcstaurant attached.

０ ０ ■ ｍ Ｚ ﹂∽ ス ＞

lini. The colours used arc those of thc

in

Prlrnorska It inay corne as a surpnse to many that

H:GHLIGHTS

Prllnorska, thc long slender province that giav National Park to lstna and the Adn■ ic Sca,mcans

° !劇 膊 ・鶏。 ・ 枷 "こ "kin'° "コ 「 3赫 い ° Ⅵ 劇B而 ・ 1融 ° 隅° :躙 TよoaⅢ rd“,● ・ .Ⅵ

extends iom Austna and T

`Litoral'in Slovcne.VVith Slovenia's coast‐ line rneasuring only 47krn long,why such an

くＹＯ匡０ コ 一 匡Ｌ

extravagant narne' It」 l hasわ do with weaher.AImost a‖ of Pnrnorska gcts the warin winds fronl the cOast that innuence l山 e vallcys as fそ .・ as Koband and Bovec and iniand.As a result,

・ Sげ躊yRm■

are disunctly Mediten'anean nght up to the foothills ofthe

・

ew h abttpat口 :軽 澪■●。 "m"",。 CaV儀 H。 TmiW in H口

Chutt dt“

=bVl●

￨

・H臨趣劇

the cliinate and the nora hcl℃

Sa、

鷺 鰤 'd “ or a“ 」∝劇 med“ 昴o￢o,,Vコ

m籠 4は ■tin

Koland

測 ° ingユ ・慇語 ま 魏IFm“ 口 『

Alps. Yet the province has four distinct regiOnsi the sOё a valley(partly cOvered in tlle ■ 'riglav National iPark section of the Gore■ ska chaptcr);centrd Pnmorska with its rolling Cerkno and ld

け

Ad13“ ■omい o国 "ld d,d tЮ ste。 。 bworol he ch・ 口。 p=“ 1毀 ll°

1錮

t

jahills;the uniquc

Karst and the coast(somctimes called S10Venian IStria).

Prirnorska is a inagical province o責 iering unlimited activ es and sighも ;it re」 ly is `Europe in miniatuま )'.In one day you can clilnb inOuntains Or kayak in the sOё a valley,

tour the winc― growing areas of the Vipava

Vallev or Brda IIills near Nova Gorica. e Skocjm Cavcs or nde Lipiz―

explo“

zaners in the K=st orlazc on the be`К hes of Piran orPortoro乏 .PnlTlorskais alsO an excel‐ lent gaCway to lt」 y(eg iom Nova Gorica

a」 twork

butrnost pcople cornc herc for such

recreational pursuits as ra■ ing,hiking and skling. 11le Soё a Valley has been an inlpOrtant

or Ankaran)征 ld Croatian lstna■ Om Seё ― ovlje and Soё erga.

tradc route between the Fnuliam Plain and thc Alpine vallcys since carly tinlcs.It was

The Soё a Vlal:ey The regiOn Of the SOё a V」 ley(POSOё je) stretches iom Triglav National Park to Nova

Gonca,including Bovec,Kobarid,Tolinin andlMost na Sod.I“ most domlnalt tauκ can widen tO 5(Ю m and narrow to less thal a metre but is the 96kin Soё

thc site of several Halistatt settlements,cvi‐

denced by the rich archaeological finds ・ 。lmin and unearthed at Most na Soё i,「 Kobarid. I)unng Roman tiines thc valley was on tllc inlpo■ ant Prcdcl rOad between Noricunl and the province of IIistria,but it lost its impo■ ance when the Romansleft.

The proxiinity ofヽ ienicc and the Napolc―

a R、 iver,which

onic wars of the latc 18

and carly 19th

aways stays that deep,dmost unκd aqua_ manne colour The v」 ley has inore than its

centuries restored the valley's stategic rOle.

share of historical sights and iinportant

pOrt l)etwcen the Sava Valley and Gonca for

The rdlway toBohinJ broughtinodem trans―

162

PrimOrska― Bovec 163

血e flsttime in 1906 and dunng Wヽ

■mil‐

lions ofけ oops were brought het to ight on

A

IP

lmo“ ka 。 一・ヽ.、

TR′ 4

he ba■ le

frOnt streに

hing■ oin llc Karst to

Mt Rombon.BetWecn the wars,PmmOrska and the Soё a Valley fell under ltalian juns‐ diction.Many ltdians were expelled or le負 the province vc)luntanly after NVヽ VII.

BOVEC

ο′ ′●θ65 0 ′οs′ ε a cο ′ ・ ′ο ′′775 0 a“ ´ ・I'he `capital' of the Upper Soё a`52'θ Valley (Gornge Posotte)has a great deal to o“ er adventure‐ spo■s entllusiasts.With the Julian

Alps abOve, the Soё a River below and

tain biking and, in winter, skling at slovenia's highest ski station witllout eVer doing the salne thing twice.

History The arca arOund BoVeC(PleZZ0 1n ltalian; Pletz in Gennan)is firstlmcntioned in docu‐ ■lents dating back tO the llth century.Atthat ime it was underthe direct nile ofthe Pato― 額chs of Aquileia but wasl誠 er"ansferred to

the Counts of GOrica and,in about 1500,to thcHabsburgs.'rheTurks passedthrOugh the basin on thcir way to thc P“ del P`熔s in the

15th centuly,and on two occaSiOnS(in 1797 my江 ‐

and again in 1809)Napoleon'sな tacked Aust

a from hcre.

Bovec suffered teriibly in the nghting

arOund the Soё a'Vallcy during剛 .Much ofthctown was dcstroyed,butits reconstnlc‐

tion by the architect Max Fabiani in the 1920s gave lBovec an intercsing combina‐ tion of traditional and rnodenl buildings.

Fulllher reconstruction took placc after a scvcre eatthquakc in 1976. Except for a period in the 17th and 18th centuries whcn the Bovec a・ ea was a centre Of iron mining andi forging,the l)eople here have traditionally worked as sheep and goat herders,clinlbing high into the nlollntains in

Fhc lknowledge of these search of pasture。 「 herdcrs was highly przcd by carly Alpinists,

and inany ofthem became guides― tion that continues to this day.

a tradi―

つコ一 〓 ０ ■０ス＞

Triglav N■ iond Park■ thc back doot you could spend aweck hiking,kayaking,1■ oun‐

164 Primorska― Bovec Orientation

tiful Soё a

]B)ovec,483■l above sca level,lies in a broad

Degrees l to VI)attract mOst people to

River(10 to 40%gradient;

basin called the BovSka Iく otlina at the nleeting point of the Soё a and Koritnica

BOvec.′ rhey are exhilarating,fi・ ightening

valleys.′ lowcring abovc are several peaks of

and educatiOnal spOns.Thc largest grOup dcding with thcse pursuits is S()ё a Rafung

wcll over 2(X)Om including Mt Rolnbon

(1日

(2208m)ald Mt Kanin(2587m).The Soё a River■ OWS DaSt BOVeC 2km■ o the south at

196200)next to the reception area atthc Alp hotel.Itis open daily from 9 arn to 6 pm.

Thc season lor these sports lasts from

くＹ∽〓０菫一 ＥＬ

Cezsoё a and widens froin about a nletre to

nlid― April

dmost 500m.The ltdian border is 16km to thc south― wcst via the pass at IJё eJa and

sions`re avallable daily only from May to September Atomertimes,they take place on

17km north at Predel.

Saturday and Sunday.Rafting is done in

v The centκ of Bovec is Trg Golobaskih Zl・ tev, about thc only narned `street' in

grOupS Of SiX tO eight(leaVing at 10'arn and

lBIovec.Actually it's a long squaFe that fOnΥ IS the main cast― wcst drag and runs nOrthward to the neo― Romalesquc Chu● ch of St Urh

practised individually Or with a guide.

and the holidav villagc of Kaninska Vas.

DM50 to DiM55(including neoprene long john,wind cheater,11た jκ ket,helmet and

Buses stoponTrgGo18baskihZrtevinfront of the Letni Vrt restaurant at No l.

to(Э ctobcr,but organised excur―

2 prn)while canoeing and kayaking can be Rafing trips on the Soё a of about l14 hours with a distance of 10krrl cost fr。

:11

PaddlC).YOu ShOuld b ng a10ng a SWimSuit, atowel.Acan(Ю fortwois DiM58

T‐ shirtand

information MoneyThere'saKolne:℃ i」 naBankabralch to the Alp hotl at Trg Golobarskh Oe

Zrtev 47,open from 8 am to 6 prn weckdays and ili noon on Saturday.The Avngo ttavel agency next door」 sO changes inoncy but takcs a 2%corn■ 1lssion.

おrthe day and akり 永 is DM30(DM37 with lit j∝ ket,helmet etC).There at alSO a nunlber of kayaking cOurses On Offer in

Summer(egamodayc∞ rse

fOrbeginners for

DM 100 md afive― day course br DM200). 11lou can alsO book through the Bovec Rafting Tcam(● 86128)in the small鳳 Osk On Trg (〕 olobarskih Zrtev opposite the

POst a cOminunicatiOns The post oirice is at Trg Golobarskh Z■ ev 8 atthe loot ofthe

Martinov IIranl restaurant.It is open dally

hill lCading to thc church and Kaninska Vas. Itis open from 8 anito 6 prn on、 ″cckdays and till noon on Saturday.

In Apnl and May and fronl late Septenlber to mid― (:)ctober it is Open wcekends only

1・

rave: Agencies Bovcc has no official

tounst ofice buttwo agencics can handle all your nceds.'I'he very knowledgcable staff at

the AlpkomeК agency(● 86370)江 the Alp hotel will alTange virtually any outdoor aCtiVity yOu Can think o■ 'rhe Avngo agency (●

86123)between the Alp hotel ald thc

bank can do the sanlc, and is particularly

good with accommodation and transpOrt. AVrigo is open MOnday tO Saturday'om 8 arn to 6 pm(8 pm in July and August)ald

JunC to late ScPtenlber fron1 8 anl to 8 P■

1・

frorn 9 am to 7 prn.

Skiing The Kanin ski centre(● 86022)in the inountalns nOrth‐ westofBovec has skiingup to ainlost 2300m― 山c Only re」 high‐ altitude

Alpine skiing available in s10venia.As a reSult,the season can be long(God and Jack

Frost providing)with good sp ng skiing in Apriland cven May.The ski nelds,14k■ l of pistes and some 12km of crosscOuntry runs sen′ ed

by thrce chairlifts and two T‐ bars,額 le

reached by a cable car in three stages;the

On Sunday fron1 9 anl● 1l noOn.

10Wer station is sorne 600rn south_westofthe

Boating

ccntre of Bovec On the nndn road.Skiing at Kanin is gcnerally nlore dificult ilan at ccntreslike Krmjska Gorain Go“ njska md

Rafting,Ikayaking andcanoeing On the bcau‐

Primorska― Bovec 165

霊 椒

Hnm Restaurant

L[椰

旺

9 10 12

Ｏ Ｖ 鮨

5 Ma“ Inov

11

”ｈ帥

4 Post Ofil∞

ｔ Ｓ ”剛 Ｓ ｕＭ 緬 Ｂ

8

l Kaninsb Vas Hdiday Ⅵll∞ ●

Vas Recotton 3 Church d Stun 2 Kanms随

AOonり Baf*a

SoCa Rafung 劇p Hotel&Apk〈 nloに

1認

Ms Club 13 1馴♀

SP

':器

嶽」田r

▲ ﹁ コ ３ ヽＯ コ ∽ ス ＞

dゝ

之ト 綸商

︹日 ′

Bovec ′

′

″ `mm′ ● ′ aa"iコ 1“ "綺 “ ““ "凛 `5■

'

■,● ●‐ 聰 ` 可 ■ “ ““ "‐

♂ ,劇 響協繰1灘 潟躊 す

plete kit(skis,poles,boots)fronl the Alp―

A″s(Cicerone Prcss:UK￡ 8.99)by SimOn BrOwn also lists a halidozen wdks

komerc agency. ・ he cable car runs constttly during the skiing season; in July and August it nlns

in the area, including an easy one to the source of the Soё a River and the dificult 6cent ofKanin.The Alpkomerc agency」 so

houny lL・ on1 8 ain to 4 pnl and every second

has a lot of guided walks avalablc such as

J“ ′ ,α ″

Rogla in Staerska.YOu ca rentthe com―

I｀

hour frorn・

I・

he oneto me MangrtSaddle(2072m)」 ong

hursday to Sunday in June and

ScPtember lt's alovely place to goヽ vhen the weather is clear and froln tlle cable car's upper station you could rnake the difficult

hour climb of Mt Kanin or reach the Prest“ llenik Window(2499m)in about iン ,hours.For your ttoubles,you'1l scc all

three‐

the highcstroad in SIoveniaand to Krn Lake

above me Lepena Vaney.They're expensive 江about DM40 per person,but you certanly won't getlost.The agency」 so has a moun‐ tain w」 king tour of medium difaculり th江 bllows me Soё aFrontlincs(s∝ meKob=id

section)to Rombon,passing ttcnchcs,old caverns,bunkers and observadon posts.It

the way to Thcstc and the Julian Alps.

Hiking ・ he l:25,00()‐ scale rnap callcd Bο ν ζ `c a Oん ο ′ たο 6Bο ツ α″グ S“ ″ ″″″′′ ″gS,liStS number of w」`εks and hikes ralging from a I｀

tWO‐ hOur Str01l SOuth tO Ce230●a and the pr(otected gravel deposits in the Soё a to an

ascent of Wit Ro:Tibon,which would take a good four hours one way. 1″ bJた ,″ g ,″ ′ み

`

takes between eight and 10 hours and costs

D)M80. The most popular do― it‐ yourself walk in 山ea・ caisto Boka Waterfal:some 5.5km to the south‐ west ofBovec.The wateifall drops inore than 100nl fronl the Kanin Mountains into the valley and is alnlost 30.■ l wide― it's an irnpressive sight,especially in late spring

166 Prilnorska― ]Bovec when the snow mclts.′ 1lo get there yOu can

ineetsthe Soё a.Itcharges 830 S11'perpcrson

either walk along the rnain rOad tOward

and is open,om April to rnid-Octobe■

Tolinin,which mol℃ orless followsthe SOё a,

Ncarby and nght on the river is the 7♭ ″′

or take the bus and get off after the Gostilna

`kayak carnp'(● :86454).

Zik:r,a sindl κstaurant and pub in Pod Cela.ThetnP up tothe fl■ ls(850nl)and back takes about lン をhours butthe path is steep in

placcs andcanbe very slippery.′ rhOse ofyou who are not up for clinlbing can stand at the bndge on the inan Bovec‐ Tol■1ln rOad and look up at the falls which are on full― but distant― display. C》

Private Rooms These are casy to cOme by in Bovec and the agencies have molc than 300 beds on their lists.A single will cost about I)M21,a double lDヽ 438,but you'11 have to pay 30%extra for stays of less than

three nights. ApaniTlents for up to three

people cost between D)M62 and E)M68, depending on the season.

ther Activities

くＶ∽匡０〓 一 〓肛

Thc Alpkorncrc and Avngo agencics selltwo types of fishing licences for hooking thc fanlous Soё a trout.()nc for thc area cast of Cezsoё a,as well as the Lepeniica Rivet costs I)M120 per day.Tlo■ sh in the Soё a

below 13ovcc, whcrc there is a lot inore

kayaking and boating,you'll pay I])M90a day.Thc scason lasts from Aprilto Octobcr.

Hote:s The Alpkomerc group runs two hotcls and a`village'Of holiday houscs at Kaninska Vas,5(Ю m up the hill north― west of thc town centre.The 93‐ room A″ hoじ 1 (●

86040;fax 86 081)at Trg Goloba・ skih

Zrtev 48 chargesiDM75 to I)M95 for singles with breakfast and shower,depending on the

Tandem paagliding(iC With a p10t and a paSSengCr),in WhiCh yOu deSCCnd frOm the

season,and DMl10to I)M150 1or doubles. The κα″れ hotel(● /fax samc),about 150m

uppercable― car station down 2000rn into the

south― east of the Alp,is in slightly quieter

Bovec Vancy orfrom Mangrt,costs DM 130 with Soё a Ra■ ing and there are hourly

and a sauna.It has 122 rooms.Single rates

lessons in pa・ agliding for〕

DM30 available in

March and April and agan from Augustto Octobc■ 11lou can also lcarn to pothole― descending wim a guide through tunnelsinto mc bowels Of the earth―

anin Mountains.・ his 「 is rcal adventure stuff― there are no prctty st」 actites or st」 agnlites Or easy trails to in the lく

kccp yOu going here.But prices`re steep: 缶om DMl∞ forone pcson,DM160 1ortwo

and DM180 for mrce. Places to Stay

about 500■l

season and whetheryourroonl has abalcOny. I)oublcs arc l)Ml16 to I)M172. The κα″ αレlscomplex(● 86022;ね x

86081)has "sた apa1lments for two peOplc for between I)M48 and I)M57, depending on the season.

Piaces to Eat The L`″ ′｀ ケ′(Summer Ca・ den)。 pposite the

b EJッ ′ s disco “ yOur heels here,should you wantto kick up j″ aier dark.να′′ ον〃″ α〃 at Trg Golo―

sununer and there is alsOthe C′

86069)

south― cast of the lKanin hotel.

It's snlall lbut is in an attractivc setting.

P010Vnik,which is opcn from Aprilto Sep― tcrnber,costs bctween 720 and 850 S11'pcr person,depcnding on the nlonth.1,hc little Lに a camp site(壼 86073)is farther afleld in odenca,some 2.5knl south― cast Ofthe town centre■ ●e point whe“ the Koritnica River llζ

are lE)M78 to lE)M106, depending on the

Alp Hotcl has pizza,grillcd dishes and trOut at affordable prices.Its garden is lovely in

Camiping The closest carnping ground to BoVeC iS thc Pο Jο ッ ″′ たca:mp site(奮

surrounds and has an indoor swiinining p。 。1

barskih Zrtev 27 specialises in seafood and g lls.Itis opcn from 10 am to ll pm evclγ day butiMionday.

If you wantto gO where local people do, hCad 10r lを ″dar in Cezsota(house No 48),

about 3km south of Bovec.It is open from ll ani t。

Tuesday.

10 pnl but closes Monday and

PriinOrska_】 くobarid 167

Gletting There&Away

v」 ley,'he Wrote,`a clcan little toWn and

Buses arc fiequent to Kobarid and Tolmin, with sOme cight departuκ s a day(a10t leSS atthe Weekend).There are dSO fOur buSCS a

thcre was a inc fountan in the square'.The

bellin thc toWer sili nngs on the hout but

dり tO ttubljana via T。 lmin and Most na sOd and three to Nova Gonca.In July and

the fountain has disappeared;yOu can locate it(and hCar the Water ruShing be10W)in the d behind Trg svObOde 15,no■ h of courty額・

August there are up to five dally buseS tO

the rather stl■

Kranjska Gora via thc Vrも which cTncs on to Bled.

iё

Pass,one of

p

king statuc of the poet and

est Simon Gκ goに iё (1844-1906),who

was born in nearby Vrsno.

obarid did have a history before WWI

Iく

Getting Around

and things have happcned since.It was a

AlpkOrnerc and Soё a Rafting rent bicyclcs ｀ and nlountain bikcs. ■he latter costs 1200

rrulitary settlement during Rornan times,Was hOtly cOntested in the Middle Agcs and hit

by a devastating earthquake in 1976 which

destroyed some historiCal buildings and fttmhouses wim uk frescOes(prescⅣ ed in

nisc group bikc tnps of Varying lcngths and

dcg“ es Of dificulty:DM80 forthte hours

the KObaid Museum).But me world will

DM180 for seven hOurs.

always remember Koband as Capo“ ttO and the decisive ba■ le of 1917 in which the cOmbined forceS Of the Central POWers

KOBARID

defeated the ltalian anny.

American writcr Ernest Hemingway dc― scribed Kobarid(then Caporctto)in his

Orientation&informlation KOband,some 21km south ofBovec,lies in

for betwcen two and eight Cyclists and

たο d`5222 ′′●θ65o′ ο∫ αlに ασ ο 《 :)nly a fcw things have changed since the .′ 。 ィ6θ o ′ノ

novcl depicting the holTor and suffenng of

WWI,A Fα ″″ ′″ A″ ,s(1929).It wお

`a

`′ little white town with a campanile in a

a broad vallcy on the llght bank ofthe Soё a River′ rhough itis sutTounded by rnountain

peaks Of inOre than 2200rn, Koband feels

■ ■ ■ ο , "ケ `“

口 ,7

140

1

』ヽ

V

К ⑩浄 Kloba

d

BIo K“

￨♀

40k『 ep“ valn'Ca SO“ 5 HenlngWay`Fountain.

13 Makot

3P"Ootalu Pub

6 0buek Exchange Bucau 7 Simon 06oO子 ●O Sntu0 8 Hvala Hotel&す opli Val Rostauttnt

9 Kouar Restaun“

mar

::糊 鴨 12 Chuch of he A,sumplon

2 01d HOWit20r Gun

(prVate ЮomS)

16 Koband Museum& Toun獣

0“ ice

■■一 ヨ０コ∽バ＞

sIT fOr a half day,1800 SIr for a full day and 72α )SIr for ive days.Thcy also orga―

168 PrimOrska_Iく obarid more Mcditerrancan than Alpine.Thc ltalian border atiRobiё is only 9kin tO thc wcst and

Cividale,where a gOOd inany peOplc iOm

Koband cOnlmutc tO wOrk cvery day,is anothcr 18knl to thc sOuth. Thc centre of Kobarld is T｀ rg Svobode,

dOrninated by the Gothic Church of thc Assumption and that fainous bell tower BuSeS StOp in iOnt ofthe Bife Kramar on the eaStCrn Side ofthc square atiNo 9.There is a schcdule postcd. The tounst officc(奮 /ね x85055)is on the

grOund f100r Of thc Iく obarid Muscunl at Grcgorё iё eva ulica 10 and keeps the sarnc hOurS aSthC museum.Thcre's a Komercialna Banka branch in the inarkct at Trg Svobode

4 opcn weekdays■ om 8 am to 6 pm and On

Saturday tili n00n,and a b″ ″ ια ど′ε力α″g` Called()butek at l｀ rg Svobode “ 12 is opcn MOnday to Saturday fron1 8 anl to 7.30 prn.

The post Ofice,tO the west Ofthe church at ´ rg Svobode 2,is opcn weckdays frOrn 8 arn to 6 pm,with a cOuple Of hal卜 hour breaks, and on Saturday till noon. I｀

Kobarid Museum This muscum,which opcned tO grcat fanfare

in 1990 and has Won scvcral European aWardS,iS Iocatcd in thc 18th century Magcr Iouse at(Grcgorё iё cva ulica 10.Itis devoted

I「

aln10St cntirely to the Soё a lFront and deals

with the tragcdy Ofthc`warto cnd all wars'.

Among thc c011ectiOn are 500 phOtO― graphs doculmenting the horrors ofthc Soё

was one

a

くobarid 169 PriinOrska― 】 or lsonzo F.ront(sec boxed text entitlcd・ 「 he SOё a(Isonzo)Front),military charts,diarics

Italian cemeteries littered the cntire Soё a

and rnaps and two large relief displays showing the front lines and offensivcs

Priinorska betwcen the wars,the authonties

Vialley. I)uring the ltalian OCCupation of

in Rome decided to collect what ltalian

thrOugh the】 Krn Mountains and the positions

remains they coul(l and bury thcnl at thc

in thc IJppcr Soё a Vlallcy the day beforc the

charnel house.11lc dedication in Septenlber

decisive breakthrOugh. Therc's also a 22‐

1938 was江 にndcd by BCnitO Mussolini.

minute `nlultivision presentatiOn'(SlideS with COin,lentary)deSCnbing thC prepaa― tions for the final battle,the fighting and its results.■ he observations inade by soldiers onl)。 th sides arc the nlostenlightening pans.

Thc inuscum is divided intO about 18 1。

'I｀

he charnel house COrnprises three

stacked octagons,cach snlaller than the one befOre it,and istOpped with the 17th century

church ofStAnthOny,movedherein 1935. ()nly onc of several frcscOes ipaintcd by Vrtav(1647-1725)suⅣ ivcdthe movc.

Jcmc」

。lns on three noOrs and the displays a・ e Third ita:ian Defence Line

English.´ rhe entrancc hall on the ground

F'rorn the ossuary,a path several kilornetres IOng leads east a10ng the renlains of the 3rd

iOOrhas photographs ofsoldiers,tombstOne crosses,m。」:ar shells and the nags Of allthe cOuntries involved in thc conflict.

・ he r00ins On the lst and 2nd lloors havc I｀

thcmesi thc Black Room shows horrible photographs of thc dead and dying; thc White Room describes the particularly

Defence Line built to Koz,ak Waterfali by thc ltalians in 1915.The path clに

)sses the

Soё a

ovcr a COpy of the bridge that was Onginally built by thc F'rench during the period of the 11lyrian iProvinces in the early

harsh conditions ofwaging warin the nloun―

19th century. ・Though thc original was destroyed in May 1915, it is still called

tainsin thesnOw andfOg;andthe near Lines

Napoieon Bridge.

Room explains What life was like for sol‐ diers du ngpauses in the fighting and forthc

andjoinstheclearedtrenchcsthatledtogun

civilian I)Opulation uprooted by war and

cnlplacerncnts, observation posts an(l a

faminc. The Breakthrough Room deals

cavcrn uscd as shelter―

with the events Over three days(24‐ 27 0ctober 1917)when the COmbined Austnan

he Kob征 ld Muscum in which■ e young s。

and Gernlan forces mct up nearIく obarid and defeated the ltalian arrny. In one roorn an

aftcr you cross a stone bridge over the Ko巧 ak StЮ am you reach the waterfall.

After a short distance the path heads north

ldicr w

nc)t unlikc theく )ne in

tes his letter home.About 5(Ю

m

ltalian soldicr sits in his cavern shelter wnting a letter to his father while thc war ragcs outside.

The Kobそ rld Muscum is open daly from 9 ain to 7 pm.Adnllssion costs 450 SIr for adults and 250 SIT for studcnts and children.

Piaces to Stay Wherever you stay in Kobarid thatinfanlous church bell ls likcly to kcep you awake at least pani of the night.Not only`ioes it ring on the hour every hour buttwo minutes later as well!

halian Charnel House l'hiS huge OSSuary `た οSl″ :Jε α in SIoVene),

cOntaining thc bOnes of nlore than 7000 1talian s。 ldiers killcd on the Soё a F.ront,

stands on

e Hi‖ of St Anthony east of Trg

The small κο″″camp sitc(雪 85312)is

about500m no■ h ofKoband onthclcftbank Of the SOё a and just beお κ the turn to D“ niSke Ravne,a lovely village with tra‐ )を

inhouses,at the foot of Mt】 ditiOnal f:遣・

くrrl.

north from Trg Svobode and lined with ie

Koren is open frorn nlid‐ March to(Э ctober and costs 720 SI・ per person. In Kobarid,the tounst officc has a short

St江 lons of ttc Cross.

jν α′ ι οο″:S includ‐ list offamilies offering′ ″

Svobode. lYlou can reach it in about 10 rninutes by following the footpath leading

Atter the war Austrian,German and

I｀

ing P″ ″οこぶ ルα′Jび (● `α

“ 85307)between

﹁■一 〓 ０ コ０バ＞

labelled in four languages, including

170 Pnmorska― Nova Gonca

ng There&Away

the muscum and Trg Svobode at Gκ go←

Ge

ёiё eva ulica 6c(but enter via thc driveway frorn lν lolariё eva ulica soutll(of the main square).They charge 2(XX)SI「 per person

Buses a・ e frequent to Bovec and T。 1lnin, 15kni to the south―cast.()ther destinatiOns

WithOut breakfaSt.The HVala hOtCl(SeC bC10W)」 SO haS tWO priVate dOubleS aVail― ablc for I)M30 to I)M35, which includes

via ldrija(s

breakfast.

■'he only hotel in town is the 32‐ roorn 助 ″ (宙 85311;fax 85 322),a wonderFul metamorphosis of thc run‐ down MataJur hotcl at Trg Svobode l.It has a btt one of

include Cerkno(up to ive a day),ILjubuana )and Nova Gorica(four).

NOVA GORiCA イ,809・ α■ ´ a cα ′ θ 65。 ′ο S′ ε O′ ′ 5てχ り ・ ′ο ′ノ `● When■ le town of GoHca,capit」 of thc

fonncr Slovenian province of Gongka,was awarded to thc ltalians under the Trcat)′ Of

くＹ∽匡０〓一 〓ａ

the best icstaurants in the country, a back gardcn which is open in surnrner and it even

Paris in 1947 and became《 ]onzia,the new

sclls pernlits for fishing in the Soё a.Singles

to building a n10del town on the castern side Ofthe bOrdcr`following the pnnciples of Le Corbusier',thc Swiss functiondist a℃ hitect who has a lot to answcr fo■ Appropriatcly

are I)M50 to I)M63, depending on the scason,and doubles are I)M80 to】)M106.

socialist governrnent in Yugoslavia set itself

Places to Eat he Oた ぁ ′ α′ ″′ Oa SOdα , opposite the lρ dι ν

enough they called it `Ncw (]orica' and

'I｀

erected a chain― link barrier between the twO

Hvala hotel tt Trg Svobode 12,has dnnks

towns. `Where the lLatin and the Slavic wOrlds

and snacks,including pizza.A nlore salubn「 ous sit― down option is the」 (ο ′ ′ αr restaurant

at Trg Svobode ll, open .I｀ hursday tO Mondり to ll pm(midnight On Fridり and

Samrdり ).

shakc hands in the nanle Of friendship'and other tourist‐ brochurc inalarkey notwith‐

standing,Nova(〕 orica itselfoffcrs travcllcrs littlc more man a gamc ofchalcc and an easy

One of Slovcnia's incst rcstaurants is in

doorway into or out of SIOvcnia.With the

Kobttd― mc b′ ′ J物 ′at he Hvda hOtel

ltalian frontier running right thrOugh what

open daily fronl noon to inidnight.1ハ rith a

、 vas once united Gonca and a cOuple of

narne meaning `Warrn Wave' and owners

flashy casino― hOtels donlinating the place, nlost people anlve here to t:う ′their luck or

fronl PortOrOを ,thc speciality here has gOt tO

be scafood.It's excellent but not cheap:a a

move on― sometimcs both and in that order. But Nova Gorica isn't all bad.It's asu■ )ris―

trout and otherfish main cOurses cost around

ingly green placc with a cOuplc of lovely

2000 SI・ r.EXpeCtto pay about 8000 SITう or

parks and gardens and its il■ rnediate sur―

tWO With a deCent bOttle Of wine(cg Goriζ ka

rOunds ― eg the Franciscan mOnastery at

shcll■ sh startcrfortwO is 1900 S11'and Soё

ChardOnnay). ´ I｀

here'S a large s“ ρ

:arた ι r

at Markova

`″7 am to 7 pm(to 3 uliCa l,Open daily from pm on Thursday and 8 pm dalyinsummer). Entertainment

KostanJevica nad(〕 orico to the sOuth and the ancient sc■ leinent of Solkan in the no■ h, with scveral bauroquc inanOr houses― offer

SOme sta■ ling contrasts. Slovenian, Viene_ tian,F.riulian and Austrian innucnces can be おlt evelywhec in the hinterland.

ThC Pri Cο rα ″ pubin aShady garden a the

Nova Gorica straddles twO impOrtant

a drink ― cspccially in the cOurtyard in

Wine― growing arcasi the Brda Hills tO the north― wcst and thc wide Vipava Vialley to the

Surnrner ln the grassy area near the petrol

SOuth― cast.It's alsO an excellent springbo2urd

StatiOn OppOSite is a rusting 1 50rn■ l IIowit― Zerヽ VCighing nlore than 5()()()kg and bullt by

for sOrnc OfSIovcnia's most popular dcstina― tions:thc SOё a Vallcy,Bled and BohinJ in

start ofMilanova “ ulica is a pleasant placc fOr

Kirupp‐

Eassen in 1911.It was flshed out Of

「I. the Soё a River after V√ ヽ

GorenJska and hc beautiful Kast leading to thc cOast.

κgion

Prirnorska― Nova Gorica 171

orientation Nova(1:orica sits on a broad plain SOuth of the Soё a lRiver.Across the ltalian region of

Gonziano to me north‐ west are the Brda Hills(Gorigka Brd→ .The Vipava Valley (vipavska Dolna)liestO the souhcast.The

Karst region is south and south― east of the

town. Nova Gorica is an unusu」 ly long town, lnning about 5k:Yl fr01m the bOrder CrOSSing 試 Roを na Dolina(CaSa Rossの in the south to

1■

Solkan in the north.・

「

he buS StatiOn iS in the

centre Of tOwn at Kidnё eva uliCa 22,so:ne

400m south― west ofthe Pcna hotel.The"an 10dvOrska ulica,aibout l.5krn statiOn is On lく 。 tO the west.Tlo get to the train station frorn

Kidriё eva ulica, walk south― west On E,r」 avё eva ulica.When you reach the ltalian

bOrder and checkpoint follow Kolodvorska ulica n。 ■hto No 6. Neitherthis bordercheckpoint northe one

fa

cr north at Solkan is open to fon)igners

(ie nOn― S10VeneS and nOn‐ I● limS).TO

(Santa Andrea).

Cent● Httours Tmvel Agency

lTALY Hitburger Snadく

a wine shop

Bar

supemaは et

(Food Sい ops) sl`Ⅳ Onilatulst Tttvol Agenり

shOpping ConЮ

SKB Banka

Gonaa

1詰8露 『

♂“

脚彎

Nova Gorica

Nova Conα : Ko゛ 帥 i"ica

■コ一 ヨ０■０バ＞

ｍ ∞ｂ面

釧師漁 ｓ ︻Ｂ 航 ｕ

Sdkan Bo同 or Cossing

cOnも b

CЮ SS

intO Italy yOu must trave1 4krn south to Roこ na D。 lina Or another 2km to VrtoJba

172 P

lllorska―

Nova(3oHca

information

nlo■ al remains of the last mernbers Of the

About the only sources of infonnation in

F.rench house ofBourbon,including Charies X(1757‐ 1836),who was OverthrOwn in the

Nova Go tuコ st(口

ca ae travel agencies.SIovenija‐

July IRcvolution of 1830 in iPans.′

rnetres north‐ west of the bus statiOn at

hc mon‐ astcry is open Monday to Saturday frol■ 9

Diavё eva uHca 4 md k∝ ps`Idian'hours:

ain ili noon and frol■ 1 2 to 5 plm.

'26 012)is a couple of hundred

I｀

fron1 9 am till noon and fron1 3 to 6 prn on

If you have a few hOurs On halld alld

weckdays and on Saturday rnOrning. Hi■ ours lnternation」 (● 28202),a=avel

always did wantto try bungecjumping,Top Extreine(● 22 006 or mobile● 0609-620 636)a Vojkova ulica 9 in SOlkan wm have

agency owned by the Hit hOtel and casinO group at Bevkov trg 6, Inay anslwer your

pm ald」 11 l pm on Stturday. Komercialna Banka,south Of thc Pcrla

yOu nying from the s。 lkan Bridge over the Soё a Riverin a few hours.'The nllni― cOurse and jumps″ c organi“ d On Saturdり and Sunday between April and Octobcr lt also organises rafting,kayaking and canyoning

hotel tt Kidrlё eva ulica ll,opcns from 7.30

on the Soё a.

questions but won't be alltllat keen to do so.

■1lo office is open weckdays fron1 8 arn to 7

く︼∽〓０コ 一 匡Ｌ

ain to 6 pm on weekdays and till noon on

Saturday.There's an SKB Banka with a Cirrus― linkedバ :「 M

at Ulica Tollninskih

Places to Stay&Eat

Punta]cv 4.The bank itself is open weck‐

Dcccnt and affordablc accorrimodation is at

days only frorl1 8.30 anltill noon and 2 to 5 ′ prn. rhe post ofFice is opposite the bus

a premium in this transient town and if

station at

Кlidriё eva ulica 19.It's Open weck‐

days fron1 7 arn to 7 pm,on Saturday t。

l pin

and On Sunday fron1 9 to ll anl. Nova Go

ca's medical centrc(●

22122)is at

ReJёeva ulica 4.

you'R3100king for valuc for nl()ney,hOp1 0n the next train or bus Out. In Roを na Ddina,the P′ ″ο ′ family(● “ 194 or mobile● 0609‐ 624452)at Ulica

32 25

Mtta 23 has′ ′ ′ ″た″ο″s brabOut DM20 pCrperSOn.The houscis scarcely 200■ l frorn the bOrdCr CrOSSing.In Solkan,about 2.5km frOrn the bus station,the 16-roonl,Sabο

ThingS to See&Do Neither the neo― baroquc bas::ica built in

1927 noryet anOtherVVlVi museunl perchcd

″″ hotel(● 28 221; fax 26 430), in an 。ld barOque manor at Ces● IX Korpusa 35,has

dOubleS With showcr for E)M72,including

atop Sveta Gora(Mont Salto)8km north

breakね st

ofNova(〕 orica is wOnh the trip;yOu can sce the church iom thetOwn anyway.Butifyou

couplc of cxpensive hOtels, both with

do walk up thc 681nl hill on a clear day, you'1l bc able to see the Soё

C)ther than that, the only chOices arc a casinos.The 84‐ room Pα ″ た(●

28225;fax

a Valley tO the north and the iinpossibly blue nbbon that is

22381)at I)elpinova ulica 5 is the cheaper Ofthe tWo,charging DMl10 fora single with

the Soё a Rivet and aに rOss the FriuliarliPlain

ShOWer and breakfast and DM 160 for a double. The flashiest Place in tOwn_and

to thc Gulf of T este.The museum is Open VViednesday to Friday frOm noOn t0 5 pnl(4

arguably in all OfS10Venia― isthe 105‐ roorn

pm in Winter)and On Saturday and Sunday

P′ ′ J′

from ll am to 7 pm(4 pm in winter). ′

eva ulica 7.A favounte with ltalians, thiS plaCe COuld be anywhcre― Hong Kong,

rhe lKOstanievica Monastery,

On

anothcr hil1 80C)rn south Of thc train station,

hotel(●

12630:fax 28 886)at

K【 idriё

WaS fOunded by the(〕 apuchin F.ranciscans in the carly 17th century and has a wOnderful

Las Vcgas,1)isneyland Pans― and it'ssOme― thing iocal pcOplettejustaweebitpЮ udof. I:)M133う Orasingle and DM2C)()for a doublc

library which can be visited.Thc na・ rOw, single‐ nave church nearby has interesting

plaCe(pOOl,Sauna,tennis courts,cttino)and

stuccos and in the spOOky crypt lic the

breakfast.The IPcrla's cxpensive restaurant

(DIM270 for a suite)gets you the run Of the

Prirnorska― Around Nova(〕 orica 173

(With an enlphaSiS On ltalian diSheS― priSe,SurpriSe)iS quite goOd.

Sur―

・ he shopping centrc north of thc bus I｀

st■ ion is a warren of caf6s,pubs and fast‐

Train About half a dozen trains head north― east each day for Jcsenice(89km;104 hours) vialMost na Soё i,BohinJska BiStriCa(61km;

70 minutes)and BICd JeZer。 (79km;11%

hOurS)On Wha is arguably the count,'s food placcs, including thc cver― popular inost beautiful train tnp.In thc other dircc― 〃′ め″rg′ r.Therc's also a large supcrmaket tion,an cqual nunlbcr oftrains go to Scを ana herc called Gbrぶ たα opcn Monday to Satur― day from 7 am to 7 pm.The outdoor“ arた ι′ (40kin;55 rrunutes),whcre you can changc おr Ц ubljana Or T eSte in ltaし is just or Delpinova ulica cast of the Park Nova Gorica is linked to AjdOvttina, hotel. A good Place for picnic supplies is jた 26krn to the south― cast,by two trains a day D′ ι αたsα ′ ′σα On the corner ofDelpinova from Monday to Saturday,ycarround exCept ulica and PrcgernOva ulica,opcn Monday to Jメ η dunng school holidays. Saturday frol■ 7.30 am to 7 pin.The Cο ′ B“′α、 ″れο″λα ncxt d00r(opcn 10 am to 5 an excellent sclection of local wincs.

Entertainlmlent CasJ″ ο (● 28890)is the company sto“ ―nothing makcs more moncy

α″ The P`′′

;′

in this tOwn,and it's dl in lirc■

om ltalians

across the border So if you wantto gamble jα れ ′ α′ ′ along with thousands of ′ , by all ineans beat a path tO ICidnё eva ulica 7-it's

κ た″j`Cias′ ′ο

open 24 hours a day.'rhe Pα (● 27221)is」 so open 24 hours with the exceptiOn Of thc Юulcttc tables(open 3 pm to 4 am).Both casinos offer di thc usual gameS― ЮulettC,blκ 町∝ k,pOkCr,b¨ Carat ―with a tOta1 0f alinost 800 slot rnachines.

Getting Around Local buses serve Solkan, Roを na I:)olina, Sempcter and Vrt● ba"Om the main Staion. Hertz(● 28711)江 Delpinova ulica 12 rents cars and is open fro■ 17 am■ o7pm

weckdays

andtO l pm On Saturday.Ylou can order ataxi on l日 '22 059 orl● 22 3CX).

AROUND NOVA GORICA

αcο ′′●θ65 ・ a´ ´

6ka Brda,

1f yOu wanttO have alook at Go

the hilly wine κgion th■ stretches from Solkan wcstto the ltalian bordet catch a bus

to Dobrovo,13kin to thc no

h‐

wcst.The

town has a Renaissance castie dating frolll about 1600 thatis illcd with period funllsh―

ings and exhibits on the winc industry. I)obrovo Castlc on GraJSka cesta also has a

Getting There&Away Bus From Nova{Gorica you can expect buSeS tO ttdOVttina eVery h」 f― hOur and江 least one an hour to Liubliana, Postoina,

velγ

good restaurant and a vinoteka wherc you can sainple the local vintages: white

Rebula and(1)hardonnay or thc Pinot and κd Teran(made

sempeter and TOlinin.other destinaiOns

Merlot reds.The very ■om the grape variet」

and thcir dally frequencies includc:Bovec

closely associated with the lKarst region than

vo(two),Idtta via Tolmin or Ajdovttina(two),Koper (thrcc),IMaribor(two),Piran(two)and

helc.Gongka Brda is also known for its

(thК e),Celje(two),DobЮ

ll

Rcfoζ k)is

mo“

fabulous chenies in early June. ・ his area has been under the in■ uencc of I｀

Seを ana

nOrthern and ccntral ltaly sincc time

KranJSka(〕 ora viaBovec and the spectacular

iinnlenlorial and you'1lthink you've crossed the borderas you go through littletowns with narrow streets,houses built of karst lime‐

via Komcn or Branik(six).In July and August there arc three buses a day to Vttiё Pass.

Up to ivc buscs a day cross the ltalian

stone and the rernains of feudal castles.(1)ne

border to(:〕 onzia,and there's a daily bus at 6.30 am■ o Trieste.There's aso a dally dep`r―

goOd exainPic is Smartno(San Martino),a

ture at 7.15 am br Rijckain Croath

and a tOwer frOm me 16th century.

pretty little foiiied village with stone walis

●コ一 〓０■０バ＞

pm wcckdays,8am tolpm onS■ urday)h田

174 Pninorska―

IdrlJa

South― cast from Nova Gonca is the wide

and ienile vipava va‖ ey,alsO famOus fOri偲

lC)entra:Priinorska

wincs;indccd,thc irst wine cooperadve in Slovenia wasestablished here in 1894.Sorne ofthe reds here are worid‐ class and Vipava

Meriot is among the best wines in central

Europe. They also do a decent ros6. The valley's rnild clinlate encourages the cultiva― tion of dclicatc stone fruits likc peaches and

apncots and in autumn,when the red sumac changes colout the v」 ley can look as ifitis in

Πaines.

The Vipava V」 ley is where the Romans irst launched their drive into the I])anube くＹ∽匡０ 〓 一 ∝ａ

region, and it was ovcrrun by thc Goths, Huns and Langoba・ ds iom the 4th to 6th ccnturies belorc the anlval ofthcearly Siavs.

Along the way though thc valley, about 22knl south― cast of Nova(]orica, is Vipavski Kri壼 (SanL Crocc),a wdled ntedi‐ eval village with a ruined castle,a Cothic

church and a 17th century rnonastery with sorne 、 vonderful illurninatcd inedieval

manusc pts. Another 4km to

e west is Aidovこ ёina (Aidussina).This wぉ the site of Cぉ 廿a ad

Fluvium Fngiduin, a lRoman fo■ Rivcr Frigidus(lVipava)and the■

on the

rst ilmpOrt―

ant StadOn on the road from Aquileia to

Emona(Ljubuana).The bOrder between Go

さ ka and Krattska(Canliola)provinces

once ran nearby.

This is an area of Priinorska o■ en over― looked by travellcrs hcading for thc`sexier'

AIPs,Kast or bcachcs.Ccnttal Pnmorska is a land ofsteep siopes,deep valleys and innu―

merable mVineS With plen,Of goOd hiking, thc lovcly ld■ ca Rivcr md acouplc ofintcr‐

csting owns. Central P morska is dominatcd by the Cerkno and ldnia hills.which cvcntuallv

Join thc Sko]a Loka Hills in Go“ 可ska to the east.Thcyな e foothills ofhe Julian AIPS・ A inaJOr tectonic fault line runs below the κgion and ldrija was the epicent“ in the caastrophic quake of 1511.It was■ the time

no mOrc than an upstar mining tOwn Of wooden buildings and the danlagc was iess seveκ than at課 ola Loka 1ヽ

Iowherc in Slovenia can cultivated ields

be found on such stccP Slopcs and human dwellings in such renlote locations as in the

regiOnS arOund ldrla and CerknO. The ravincs and v」 lcys were very uscful to thc

Panisans dunng wwII and thc rcgiOn is dotted with monumcnts testifying to their presence: the hospitals of IPavl and F.ranJa

(nCar Cerkn。 )and the PartiSan printing

hOuSecaledSIovenijattVojsko,some 14km no■ h― west ofldrija.

ThC tOWn Of Vipava(Vipそ ECO),the Centκ of thc valley 6knl to the sOutll_c,ast,is fu1l of

stonc churches below Mt Nanos,a kast plateau frOrn Where the Vipava River SpringS.Be Surc to nlake a side trip 2knl to

ZemOnO Palace(● 65 129),a summer nlansion built around 1700 by one Of the Counts of Gorica.Today the inansion,built

:DRIJA ・ α″a ・ ′ο ′62θ θ

rο ′ ´●θ65。

′528θ ′οs“ ο′

when mOst s10venes mink of ldrija,thFe things cornc to inind:

こ likrOfi,

lace and

meК ury・ The WOmen Of ldtta haVe been taking c:譴 ,e of the ■rst two for centuries,

stuffing the cresccnt_shapcd `Slovenian

in the shape of a cross insidc a square with

ravioli' with a savoury inixturc of bacon,

alcaded hall、 vays and a raised central area,

potatocs anci chivcs as fast as thcy spin their

houscs a pOsh restaurant and wine cellar and

wcb― like dj′ 巌2.The mcn,on the othcr hand,

is used for wedding cerenlonles and ban―

went undergrOund tO cxtractthe`live silver'

quets.Have a peek at some ofthc baroque mura:s near the entrance. They pOrtray a phoenix and a subterranean cave― syinbols of ire and water.There arc some excellent

views down into the Senile valley frOm ZcrnonO.

WOuld make this Юwn one Europe in the Middle Ages.

οS″ らο,that (矛 ν

“ in】 Of the richest

History MerCury WaS irst discovercd in 1490 atthe site where the Church of the H01y Trinity

Primorska― Idrija 175 now stands.1llc lcgcn(l is that a rnan、 vho madc s′ 力α″ ο♭α,or traditional'w.oodcn prod―

lawycrs■ ocked hcrc to work.Thc ld

uCtS,WaS buSy at WOrk On SOmt mbs hc was

elaively high wages attractcd workcrs iom a‖ Overthc Habsburg Empirc.In 1769,Idtta

ja

rniners faccd 11lany hcalth hazards,1)ut the

gOing tO sell at the markct in Sko旬 a Loka. After hc'd finished soaking thenlin a spHng tO ensurc they、 ouldn't lcak,he tricd to lift

built Slovcnia's first thcatrc and later could

Onc up but it、 vas too hcavy.Atthc bc)ttorn v′ as a nlass ofsilvcry matcrialthat hc'd ncver

markctin Loka where hc took thc stuir had

thc ccntury,Idrija was second in sizc only to Ljubl;ana ainong thc towns of Carniola. ´ hc nlarkct bottonlcd out on rnercury in the 1970s and production of this oncc prc―

sccn rncrcury before anci thc`mercury rush'

cious clcmCnt haS all butCCaSCd in ld可

bOastt、 vO ofits finest schools.By the turn of

∼

sccn befOrc.But sornc of thc pcople at thc

I｀

ain German)bcgan

to ldtta(Yd

a.ThC

last pit will closc very soon and nlost rniners

nOw work in factories no■ h of town at

The first minc Opencd at ldrija in 1500,

SpodnJa ldrija or Ccrkno.

nlaking itthe second.oldcst nlercury lΥ linc in thc、 vOrld aftcrthc onc in Alrnad`n in ccntral

・ hc lminc has lcftthe t。 、 vn a din「 icult and CXpCnSiVC leg¨ y ldtta SitS On SOmCthing Iヽ

ducing 139,of thc、 vorld's rncrcury,thought to bc thc purest and of the bcst quality.Its

likc 7oOkm Of shafts that go down 15 1cvcls

biggest markcts wcrc Vcnicc,Tricste,

now bccn illcd with water and morc havcto

to 32rn belo、 ′sca lcvel.11le first four have

Amsterdam and townsin Cermany.

,10adcd with had corc ald dcbns to stabilisc

the placc.omerwise thc tOwn might sink.

for both thc im―

All that rneant nloncy―

penal cOurtin Vicnna and ldrija Becausc of thc toxic cffects of rncrcury, doctors and

Sornc destinations in SIovenia just havc

thC nght tCl,and ld

ia iS OnC Of thCm・

lsilver

bonds αin ared allsm

Lewis miners weЮ

n't

north of town.

tO Obtain causuc

paper wlh s‖ verto make itis a

one of

from wha was

use

mining of son、 e

" pnces

since the

the no

has boon

moЮ 970s was

a

””一 〓０コ０パ＞

SPain.By thc 18ぬ ccntury,Idtta was pro―

morska―

176 P

Idrija

2 Nikolal Pimat Dormmoリ

PLACES TO EAT

脚¨ り¨ 醐

ｕｍ¨Ｍｄ曲 調ｈ ｉ Ｓ Ｃ Ｃ ＆ “ “ｌ 酬 ３ ４

6 Nebooa Rostauほ 耐

lo Pn skal● 可 じ

ｙ  

ｍ     “

   

ｇ ｎ

8 Town Ha‖

９  １ ２   ”  ４ ５６ ７ ０ ９ ” １ ２ ２ １１ １１１１１ １

PLACES iO)STAV

認

:」

i訓

Mag″ ln

露曽。 ぃ

lr朧濡PaA,面 ::き

よ 襦 配 ヒ『: “ 1螢

8us StaЮ n

Komp“ Tnvol A∞ nw‐ N"a KBM Banka‐

MO"aO「 SuF"maほet KamSt WatO「 Wheol

Id

ja

くＹ∽〓０〓 一 ∝ユ

3■

Walking through the shaft whcrc rniners

ablc to help.They aК open froin 7 an to 3

toiled for alnlost five centuries, across Mestnitrg lo mctown's wen pre“ rvedcastle or dong tte ldttca River ald its cand Ю

pm on weckdays(to 5 pm on Wiё dnesday)

pnstine Wild Lake on a warnl sunllner's

Shopping centre OppOsite the bus station at Lapttnetova ulica 13 is open weekdays fr。 1■ 7.30 am to 6 pm and on Saturday till noon.

evening,you rnightjustthink sO tOO. Orientation ldrija sits snugly in a deep basin at the con‐

nuencc of the ldrijca and Nikova nvers. Surrounding he v」 ley are the ld ja and Cerkno hills which eventuallv ioin the

and on Saturday till n00n.

Thc Nova KBM Banka branch in the

Thcrc'san SKB Bankawith an ATM a Ulica Svete Barbare 3 opcn weekdays Only frolm 8.30 andln(x)n and 2to5 pm.lhepo■ ofacЮ

at Lapanetova ulica 3 is open weckdays fron1 8 arllto 7 pnl and on Saturday till noon.

Skola Loka Hills in CoFttska to the cast.

The Cent“ of ld可 a is Mestni trg but everything of a practical nature is tO the east

on Laplnctova ulica.nc bus station is lodnikova ulica and nearby between ヽ ′ PreSernova ulica.

Municipai Mul開 )u:m

This cxcellent museum,which won thc coveted Micheletti PIize for`Best Tlechnical MuSeurn in】 Europe'in 1997,is housed in thc enorrnous(〕 ewerkenegg Castle On top ofthe hill to the west of Mestni trg at P're10vё

information ldrija'S tourist omcc('71135)is■ L叩 筍― nctova ulca 7,a fcw steps wcst Ofthc post OfiCe.It iS Opcn weekdays frol■ 8 am■ o4 Pin and,froln June Ю August,on Saturday

and Sunday from 9 am to 5 pm as wen.Thc staff at Kompas(● 717(Ю )o the east Of ttc Post ofice on Lapttnetovaulica may also be

eva

ulica 9.:Because the castle was purpose_built fOr thC mine adininistration in 1533,local lit Rud 歯 Grd from tte S10vcnc

wordれ "ople c」 ″Jた 10r mine.Visit the mu“

um

`グ bCfOre you go into the Anthony Minc Shaft; you'1l understand a whole 10t mOre. Thc collections,which deal with inercury and lace but,sadly,not Zlikrofi,are exhibited

P

morska― Idtta 177

in threc wings centned around a couityard.

■he rococo frescoes of plants,scrolls and

columns iaming the windows and a'cades datc frorn the 18th century.

MeК ury(Hg on thc penodic tablc)is the only nletal that rcaches a liquid statc at roorn

temperature. It cornes in a `frec' state (100king prCtty inuCh like the Stuff in an

average thermOmeter)and Can dSO be bOund up with a bright_red nlineral caled cinnab:r, which must be burncd at very high tenlpera‐ tu“ s or ttatcd with limeわ frcc the silvery

wing,amid ajungle of miner」 s and fossils, is a large cauldron of lnercury with an iron b」 1■ oating in the nliddlc. Pa・ t ofthe ethnographica:co‖ ection in

Lace‐ nlaking is a centunes‐ old cnaft in!drila

and the end productis prized the u′ orld loven

this wing shows roolns in a typical nlincr's house tt various tinleS in hiSt。

lγ

(inCluding

the 1960s).A miner's jOb carrled stams and they earned nlore than doublc thc aVerage salaつ′in this part of SloVenia;thc furniSh― ings arc nlore than adequate. The nuners

were well organised and SOCidism was pOpu12r in thc late 19th and carly 20th ccn― tuncs.

In tlle iRondel Tlowcr of the east wing tllere's a mock― uI)。 f the `call man', the

unspeakable so‐ and― so who surninoned mincrs tO wOrk every day at 3.30 am in the town centre by hitting a hollow log with a m」 let.Therc's aso an ingenious`w」 king

politicallirnbo after thc deatll ofhcrhusband in 1980. Anothcr room is dedicated to the life and

wOrk Of the novclist France Bcvk(1890‐ 1970),bom in the village of Z:よ ojca ne征

Cerkno.One of Bevk's finest works is ′ ,acめ outthc"rsecu‐ ″′ ″ご′ Fα ′ λ `″ tion `r of Mα an ltalian― Slovene prlcst and his struggle against the Fascists just bebre ヽへVⅡ .

The Municipal Museurn is open daily, yearrOund,from 9 annto 6 prn.Ad■

lission is

300 SI「 (200 SIT for students and child“

n).

tOur Of ldr」 a'Set up here・ PaintingS and。 ld

Anthony Mine Shaft

photographs spaced betwecn the windows

AnЮ nijev ROv,a`living mu“ um'on Koso‐

狙low you to compare old ldrija with the

ve10va ulica south of Trg Svetega Ahac」 a,

tOwn th■ nOw lies below you.At■ e bottoln ofthe new Mercury￢ ower atthe sta■ ofthe sOuth wing is a 320kg plexiglass cube filled witll drops of mercury. C)ne large roonlin the south wing is giVen

allows you to get a brief feel for what

OVer endrely tO〃

ケα″αびι シ滋2,血 e bobbin

iace woven in broad`たrings with distinctive

patterns.MOtifs,numbenng upto 40,lun thc gamut fronl the usual hcarts and nowcrs t。

horseshoes,crescents and lizards.Check the table cOvering measunng 3 by l.80m.Ittook 5(XЮ hours to inake and was intended fOr Madarlle′ rito until she was banishcd into

wOrking conditions wcre like for the mercu,minersofldrija.The enttancc is the Antllony Shan,built in 1500,which lcd to

the first imnc:1.5km long,600m widc and 400rn deep.

′

I'he tour,lasting about lレ 4 hours,begins

in the`call roorn'ofan 18th century building where nliners、 vere selected each nlorning andassignedtheirduties.Justi■ lagine sitting On thOse hard,cOld benches at 4 anl with 10 hours underground to look forゃ vard to.

・I'here's an excellent 20-minute vidco in

﹁コ一 〓 ０ コ０バ＞

elcrllent insidc.Asthc wood‐ workcr discov― ered, Inercury is a very hcaVy rnetal,cven heavier than iron and in thc castle's noll:h

morska―

178 P

ja

Id

several languages(inclu(ling English) Before entenng the shaft,you must don

vaney are ldrija's distinctivc miners' houses.Large wooden A‐ frames with clad‐ ding and dozens of windows,they usualy

coats with the nline16'insignia,hellnets with

had fourstoreys with livingquaners forthl“

torches attached and wish each other

or four fainilies.They lnust have appeared

nC

deSCribing ttC hiStOry Ofldttaand he

`Sreё nO!'(`(:)。 Od luCk!'), the traditiOnal

massive when they were irstbuiltin the 17th

nliners'farewell「 Ylou'1l be thankfui for」 lose

century.

helmets every tirne you k:1lock your hcad against one of the shaft's support beains.

As you wak inb the shaftthe佗

's a good

display ofthe mine's lcvels donc with glぉ s and light unde oot.As you fo■ ow the circu‐ 1征 tour you'1l s(海 sainples of live mercu17

)e

No■ h of Mestnitrg is thc Church of the

Hoiy Trinity(1500)on the sitc where meκ ury was irst discoveκ d by our f end the tub‐ maker

mole than 500 yea・ s ago.To

scraped to a depth of about 5cnl,as well atts sorne cinnabar ore。 「 he 18th ccntury chape: in thc shaftis dedicated to StiBarbara,patron

the no■ h― cast off G lё eva ulta in the dis― trict of F'ranei6kel is the last rnine still functioning in ld ja.A wachouse nca・ by contains a inass of inining equiprnent frorn befOre VVヽ 4 tha still wOrks On cOmpressed ain lf you'“ interested,ask lle staff tt the

of miners,and St Ahac,on whosc fcast day

MunicipallMiuscum about a toun

(22 Junc)nch deposits of cinnabar ore were discovered.

technology that sdll exists is the lKamも t,a

。n the wans that the miners painstakingly くＹＯ匡ＯＥ 一 工Ｌ

I｀

11【

ou can visit the mine witll a guide on

(I)ne ofthe rnost interesting bits of rnining

13.6m water wheel made of wood tha was

on Sunday at ll am,3pm and4pm.Admis‐

used tO pump the water Out of the n。 。ded inines fronl 1790 until 1948. It is about l.5km sou血 ‐ east of Mcstni trg off Vod‐

sion is 70κ )/50()S11｀ lor adults/children.

nikova ulica.11lou could cornbine a visit here

Other Sights

with a wak」 ong mc ldrijca River Canalto Wild Lake,about 3km sou山

weckdays at 10 anl and 4 pnl only.On Sat― urday,tours depalt at 10 anl,3 pnl and 4 pnl,

・ here are several fine neoclassical buildings

.

I・

on Mcstni trg,including thc town hali at No l. ・ Ib

the west of the square opposite

Prelovё

eva ulica la is the Lacemaking

schooi(Cipka・ ska S01の in the Staa SOla (01d School),builtin 1876.Lacc― making is still a“ quired subj∝ tお r giris in elementary

Wi:d Lake An cxcellent trail called POt Ob Rakah bllows thc ldttca Rivcr C帥 」 from the KamSt to Wild Lakc(Div」 e LzeЮ ),a tiny, 1:npossibly green lake fed by a karst spHng nlore dlan 80■ l under thc surface. Aftcr a

welcOmed daly 缶om noon 0 4 pm.The Gimnazila Jur“ a

heavy rainfall, watcr gushes up fronl the

Vege(1901),tO the nOrth― wcst on Smdent‐ ovska ulica,educated illany Slovenes who

tunnel like a geyser and thc lake appears to be boiling.Perhaps that's nOtthe llght word;

school in ldrija.Visitos a“

later rose b natiOnal prominencc,including the p

nter Boを idar Jakac(1899‐ 1989).

he largc 18th ccntury building On the nOrth side ofTrg SvetegaAhacija,me cent“ oftown in thc Middle Agcs,isthe Magazin, 'I・

a granary and warehouse where thc rniners, Who were paidin fOOd as wellasin cash,kept thcir storcs.It now houses a gallcry and thc Ciり

lib"w.Ъ meettt,■ TrgSvetegaAlttja

5,isthe Maria Theresa Theatre,the oldcst in the country.11。 day it functions as a cinema. aid out across the slopcs cncircling the I_′

the surface temperature ncver excecds 10° C.

Three cavc divers have drowned aヽ vild Lake over the past several yea・

s― twO in 1995 and onc in 1997-trying to findi the

source. 11lc lakc has been dcclared a natural nlonu―

incnt and litue signboards around the shore (WhiCh should takc you about 15 1「 linutcs tO 江a snairs pacc)idcnti″ thC

circlc if yOu g。

plants and trces and point out the lakc's unique fcatures.That body of waterflowing from Wild Lake into thc ldttcajust httpens

Pninorska― Ccrkno 179 to be the sho■ est river in SIovenia. The Jezcrnica River is a nlerc 55nllong. If yOu f。 110wed the canal for 15knl to the south‐ west

you'd colne to thc irst of the υ♭ ″)。 f St∝ ked W00d and StOnCS baコ eS θ that dammcd “ me ldttca and Belca nvers to n。 江 timberin the Old days.They were once c」 led`Slovenian pyrainids'becausc ofthe appe征 額lce.恥 4ood was an impo■ ant com― modity fOrtwo re:鳩 ons.First,somcthing had tO supportぬ ose 700km of minc shafts and sccond,tlle heat needcd to extraCt ine,cury from cinnab征 quiЮ d a lot of fucl.Thc

natives are friendly.Itis open Monday to 3 ￨`み ι sα pm,Thesday to Saturday to 10 prn.♂ ′

by the bridgc over the Nikova River at Prelovё evaulica5 is acentral place forlunch

OraSnaCk(SandWiCheS,hOtiOgSand,OfCOurま そlikrO■ ). There's a large■

3,

ィ carο ′supernlarket at lι

Lapttnetova ulica 45“open weekdays iom

7.30`un to 7 pni and to 6 pn1 0n Saturday.A ″α戌″is held in Trg Svetega Ah¨ ijaon the 15th and 2C)th of cvcry nlonth.

Entertainlmlent

Evenings of classica,お lk mdj2z cOncerS

Belca River.

take place in thc cOurtyard of Gewerkenegg

ThetteaOftheldttCaneartheSuSpenSiOn bndge is good for swil■ Ining in suminer, when the water averages about 20° C.

Speciai Events lllc big evcnt in ldrija is the annual Lκ

c―

makingFestivalin late August.lhehighlight

is a contest in which up to 100 people compete.

71052)atUlicaIX Korpusa6 has 56 beds

avallable in■

Things to iBuy ldrija lace is among the incst in thc WOrld

and a small piece,though not cheap,rnakes 1'he best olace to buv

a great 2ift or souveni■

it is at a shop cdled Gderija ldrijskc Cipke

P:aces to Stay&Eat h summcrthe N′ 腸￨″ ゾP′r″ αr Dl,α ユJDο ″ (●

castle every second Fnday or so in July, August and Septenlbei Contactthe rnuseum (● 71135)for schedules and information.

lulti― bed

roorns.

since the c10sure of tlle decrepit Ydna hOtel ttthe castern end ofLapaJneЮ va ulica,

the only standad accommodation now in α ♭α″ ldrija is thc six― room Cο srぶ d`β α′ fax 71 142)址 Юve me nine shaft musCum (雪 ノ at Kosovelova ulica 3.Singlesw′ doubles with showcr are 45α )/7200 SIT. P″Jぶ 物ルタ

cAt he Sign ofthe Ъ b')is

a very filiendly restaurant at Ulica Svete BIarba薫 〕 9,open weckdays and on Sunday to

江 Mcstni trg 16.It is open weckdays fro:n loain till noon and4 to 7 pin and on Saturday

moming.The Vanda shop tt Trg Svetcga Ahacija 7 has a smaller scl∝ tion.It is open iOm 9 am tillnoon and 4 to 7 plm on week‐ days and on Saturday inonling.

Ge

ng There&Away

mrija is not the easicst place in the worid to reach.'I｀ he town is not on a train line and the bus service is fairly limitcd.11lere are atleast

hOurly departurcs to Cerkno md Liubljana, about threc buses a day to lBovec,eight to

Crni Vrh,cight to Tolmin,three to

10 pin and to ll Pin on Fnday and Saturday. Pizza baked in a bcautiful wood‐ buming tile

ina and one(at 5.30 am)to Nova Ajdovも ё

stove is why inost peoplc come herc,but

Gonzla.

(:】

onca, which then carrlcs on into ltalian

thcrc are plenty of other things on thc menu

CERKNO

as well.

Pri Skafalu dOeS deCent enOughを likrOi, jan of but tte best pl¨ ctohavethis mostld specialities is at

κοs,a

little pub and restau‐

rant■ TolnSiё eva ulica 4,not far from■ he Ydna hoじ 1.Don't be put or froln entenng wh誠 100ks a irst like a private club;thc

′5282 srrο ′ ′ αcο dθ 壼 65 。′ο ・ ′ο ′2ノ 7θ ・ α´ .θ

Until rccently this town could not claim the historicaliinportance ofits celebrated neigh‐

bour ldrija,20km to the south.But with the recent discovcry of whatis considered to be

thc oldest known musical instrurnent on

●コ一 〓 ０ コ０バ＞

“ soine 12km down the darns cOndnue fOr

180 Primorska― C;crkno

cave vtton

nluch moisture

radiaton oldest

Cettno Museum

display

くＶ∽∝０〓一 ＥＬ

eall:h (scc boxcd tcxt cntitlcd Stone Age Music)that has changed. In any casc,ICcrkno has two othcr clairns

tOね me・ ItiS thC hOme Oftheレ ィ α,thC /brιり ancient Shrovetide celebratiOn in which the

known

ncxt to thc(Ilcrknc hotel, keeps tlle sannc hours as the bank,with a couplc Ofhalf― hour breaks in thc morning and afternOOn.

Cerkno Museum

、 voOden

The Cerkno Muscum(Cerkljanski Muzej)is

nlasks and`executc'thc()ld Ycar lfyOu don't gCt a Chancc to corne to([〕 crkno for Mardi ras to sec the fanlous sho、 v,you'1l havc tO be contcnt with looking at the rnasks in the

about 150nl south― west of Glavni trg at Bcvkova ulica 12. A large section of this

kcy playcrs 、 vear alrtfully craftcd

(:〕

town's muscum.CerknO is also known forits strangc dialect in a land 、 vherc therc are sonlething like SC)Of thern.Peoplc frOrn Out_

SidC the CerknO rCgiOn(CCrkljanSka)always secrn to srnile 、 vhen they hcar what is thc cquivalcnt of an Arnerican southern drawl

Orientation&infOrination

Srnall museurn is givcn overto thc work done by the VVヽ VII Partisans in sccrcthospitals and

prlnting presses around the rcgion,butthOsc displays arc black,white and grcy at best and labelled in Slovcne Only.Step into thc roorn with the LaufaF]i maSkS.It'S a 10t bnghter EthnO10gists belicvc thatthe Laufanjatra― ditiOn and the nlasks canle frorn Austria's south′ ryrol hundreds of years ag。 .盪 ι 」 {/1`“ ι 11lCans`running about'in(〕 ernlan and that's

([lCrknolieSinthcCerknicaRiverValicy4kin north― east Of thc main road linking ld ja

just what the playcrs dO as thcy nab their

With thc Soё a Vancy.Glavni trg,the main squarc,is whcrc the buscs stOp.

faccs On display here are onginals bought from onc of the Laufa」 i clubs.Only One

ThC tourist officc(奮 745 222)is at Bcvkova ulica 24 to thc no■ h_、vest OfGlavni trg past the(Ξ lcrkno Muscuin.If it is c10sed, Seek assistancc frOnl thc hclpful and kno、 ′ 1edgCable Staff atthc(二 ;crkno hotel.′

rhe Nova

KBM bank branch(Open wcckdays frOm 8 am to 6 pm and Saturday tili noon)is at Glavni trg 5.'Thc post office,in Scde」 ev trg

victim.The rnasks with the crazy,distOrtcd

Clderly man in Ccrkno still makcs them.

Groups of boys and yOung incn(and now a tW girlSand WOmcn)belongingto Laufttji societics(like the Mardi Gras clubs in Ncw

orleans)。 rganise mc cvent evcヮ yca and abOuttWO dOZen pcifonn.′

「

hose aged 15 and

ovcr are allowed tO enter, but they nlust provc thernsclves 、 vOrthy apprcntices by

Primorska― Cerkno 181 ｀

′

costurncs.■ hcsc costurncs― though not nlasks― must bc inade frcsh every year

the accordion. rhc ()ld Man, wearing

because rnany of thern are rnade out of

brirn■ led

lcavcs,pinc branches,straw or nloss stitched OntO a burl叩 (heSSian)b∝ king md Can take

ay woodcn mallet and the body is rolled a、 ′ ∼ on a calsson.

se、ving

quite a beating during thc festivitics.

′ I｀

he action takes place on thc Sunday

before Ash Wiednesday and again on Shrove

The main CharaCtr

Siovenian― stylc lcderhosen and a widc―

hat, cxccutcs thc Pust with a

Thc Ccrkno Muscum shows a datcd vidco of the Lauね rila in Slovcnc,but it is cntcr― taining and illustrates ho、 ′the inasks and

is the Pust,whose inask is horned and who 、 vears anlosscosturne wcighing up to 100kg.

costurnes arc nlade and how cvcnts unlold at Mardi(:〕 ras.Itis open daily,CXCept Monday, frOn1 9 ain to 2 pm and adnlission is 250 SIT

11le's the synlbol of wintcr and the old year―

(150 SIT br children).

TueSday(PuStni TOrek)・

hc inust die.

Somc ofthe other two dozen LaufarJi chaト

ccrknO,treated wOunded Panisan soldiers

aCterS repreSent CraftS and tradeS(the Baker,

frOrn WugOslavia and other countries frorn

the Thachcr,the Woodsmal),While the reSt

latc 1943 until thc end of WII. F.ranJa

have celrtain character traits or amictions such asthc E)runk and his Wifc,thc Bad Bo"

IIospital c」 ly has nothing to do with politi―

Sneczy and thc Sick Man,who always plays

cal or cconomic systcms;itis a memonalto humanisln,courage and selisacnicc.It is a mloving and very worthwhile place to visit, and the rnost popula・ VVゝ 覆I inuseunl in SIovenia.

・ he cornplex,narned after its chief physi― I｀

cian,IDr FranJa BoJC― Bidovcc,was built in Deceimbcr 1943 forthe needs ofthc IX Corps

which included seven brigades and a large nunnber of conlpanies ― a total of sorne 10,000 soldiers. 13y May 1945 it counted sorne 13 structures, including trcatment sheds,opcrating theatrcs,X― ray roorns and bunkers for convalescence. More than 500 woundcd werc trcatcd hcrc with a mo■ ality rate of only about 10%.

The coinplcx,hiddcn in a ravine by the Pasica Stream with steep walls nddled with caves,had an abundance of fresh water that

、 vasl also used to power a hydroelectric gen― erator. 13ecause of the hospital's isolated

position, noise was not a problem. Local farmers and Partisan groups provided food tha was IOwcred dOwn the steep cliffs by rope;medic」 supplics were diveied froin hospitals in occupicd areas or later air―

dropped by the Allies.The hospital came under attack by thc(3ernlans twice― once in One ofthe colourful Laufalirnasks on display

in Cerkno Museum

Apnl 1944 and again in March 1945-but it was never taken.

ヽコ一 ヨ０■０バ＞

iousy roads― and,of coursc,is found guilty.

Frania Partisan Hospita: ′ I'his hospital, hiddcn in a canyon near DolcnJi Novaki about 5klm no■ h― cast of

Thc Pust is chargcd with a long list of

cnmes― a bad haurvest,inclclrlent weathet

182 Primorska― Cerkno TheFranjaPa・ dsan Hospimlis open Ap

l

l and to

tO SCptCrllber daily frOn1 9 aFllt0 6 p■

4 Pin in March,October and Novemben FЮ m Decem“ rto FebruaV itis open from 9 arn to 4 pnl on Saturday, Sunday and holidays only.Adrnission costs 30()/20〔

)SIR

Specia:Events The Lauf

ja festivaHn late Fcbruaryん

dy

March takcs placc outdoors both in lC〕 lavni trg and Scdejev trg near the Cerkno hotel.

Places to Stay&Eat The 75-rooln C′

″ο hotel(● 17420;fax 75

Ravne Cave

207)with some `た140 beds is in a modem

Thc snow― white a・ agonitc crystds in the

building in the heart of town at Sedejev trg

Ravne Cave(Ravcnska Jaina)at Ravne,

8.It's a cornfioltable enough placc with an

about 7kl■ south‐ west of Ccrkno,a・ e a very ra・c

phcnomenon.They alc foHned by ka・

st

springs containing magnesium as well as calciurn and are very beautiful,resenlbling

ind∞ rp∞ 1(α Ю sr fOrnOresidenも ),saunι gynl and three clay tennis courts. Singlcs with breakfast and shower are I)M85,while ′ doubles iaR, I)M140. I.he hotel offcrs dis―

く︼∽匡０ 〓 一 Ｃａ

ice,needles,even hedgehogs.'I'he cavc is a total of 682m long and you getto see about

counts for stays of more thaltwo nights.

half of it in thrce galleries.But to visit,you

DolettiNovaki(housc No l)not far'om the

must scck permission■ om mc Sreё ko Log`v

Fratta Pa san Hospitalis very popular wi血 local people,particularly for lunch at the

CNing Club(nO telCphOnC)at ttubjanSka cesta 5 in ldrija or from the Municipal Muscum(● 71135). Hiking ■ le CerknO HillS(CCrklmSkOH simply t激 lor― madcお rhi

Thc Cο s″ ′ ″α ソ Lο g“

(●

745 188)in

weckcnd. It is open Wじ dnesday to Sunday from ll anlto ll pnl.VIメ )gu also has four roorns whcre you can stay for about I)ヽ 425 pcr person.

bOVJC)arC

ng ald thc English―

′ 1物 に aVail― “ sonlc cight hotel,lis“

Getting There&Away

languagC Orttο MαPげ助

There re hOuny depmuκ s by bustO Idr」 a

able from the Cerkno walks, 1■ ost of the11l pretty easy. :I｀ hey include walks to the Frania Partisan Hos‐

(eight a day On Saturday and Sunday),up tO fiVe a day Ю 巧 ubjana and thК e tO BoVeC via Most na Soё i, Tlolinin and iKobarid. Another 10 or so(th● ce tt the weckend)go

pitai(No 7;31%hours Etum)and Ravne Cave(No 2;lour hours).Thc highcst pcak in thc arca is Mt Porezen(1632m)to thc north― cast,which has a lTlountaln hut called

Dο″ ″αPο ″ ′ z″

(1590m;'75 135 or

Just Ю Tolmin,where you can changc for

Nova Gorica and the coast. 'rhcre's one dircct bus to Nova Gonca from Cerkno on weekdays at 6.04 am.

“ mobile● 0609-615245)with accommoda― tion.Itis open daily fronl Junc tO September and at the wcckend lonly during the rest of the yca■

Skiing Thc Cerkno Ski Centre(●

Karst Region

slopes.In nOnnd snow conditions fourtows

The Kな strcgion is a sm」 11lmesЮ ne platcau strctching'om Nova Gorica south‐ east to the Sko可 an Caves,west Ю the Gulf of Trieste and east to the Vipava Valley. Because it was the irst such area to be

17420),10kin

north‐ cぉ t ofCerkno,ls situatcd On Cnli vrh

(1290rn)and covers 50 hectarcs of ski and thice chair liis opcrate but there arc

rcsearched and described in the 19th century,

c`mmons for making a ificial snOw.The closest accom:110datiOn is at Cerkno or

itis called the Classic,Re」 ,Tnle or Original Karst and always sIЮ ned wim an uppc■ case

Dole町 l Novaki so you'1l have Ю makc it a day tnp via one of the special ski buses

`K'.Other kast areas(■ 01n thc Slovene wOrdた ″ as,TOund mc wOrld are simila but

operating during normal snow conditions.

they get a dOwngraded`k'.

PnmOrska― もkoc」 an Caves 183 Mill10ns Of ycars ago this pa‖ :of Europe was covcred by a deep sca that left thick layers of liinestonc deposits.When thc sea

Rihembcrk Castle near Branik orthe wancd

vinagcofStanJelwi

i“

magnificcntFerai

dried up, craters and fissures began to

C}ardens to the norll,but the areas with the rnOstto see and do are to the south.

appear,growing deeper and creating large sbne fragmentsthat wet bleached white by the sun.Bccause most of■ le soil blew away, vcgetadon is scarcc,giving the landscape a desolate,some,what wild appearemce.

rnost of the year,with lots of sun and low hunlldity,don't be looled into thinking it's 狙l sweetncss and light a11 1lc time.Thc bora r7α in Slovenc),a■ erccly Cold nOnherly rわ ″

Rivers,ponds and lakes can disappear and

wind froni the Adnatic Sca,can do a lot of

then tesurface in the porous lirnestone

dainage in wintet ripping off roofs,uproot‐ ing trees and blowing a,w.ay topsoil.It does

StalagmiteS(hC OneS that Sh00t up).｀

WhCn

these underground caverlls collapse― and

give the prSut its distinctive taste,though.

OK00JAN CAVES .``′

!`● 〔 ・ ″

`arα `2′ ` 8■ 彙 `7 誠`".o`′ r mO■ , Skoc,an The kttt av“

CⅢ V● ng耐 `口 '山 田

ie■ 18蝉 。

33b oし “ n"h

they dO periodically― they fornl adepression

Pos"¨ a.Ю 鵬

οケ redvege‐ Clay, r″ οs∫COleCtS αofthe SOil(mOStly Karst)and then theセ`'WhiCh “ are cultivated and,because of tation.′ hey all the sink holes and undcrground Watet

land and uen“ alm8 he real thing,yaru

(′

I｀

they tend to■ ood quickly in the heavy rain. T'he lKarst,with its olives,ruby‐ red・Ileran

wine,ardried′

′ha:n,old stonechurches

“ SOFne peOple'S faVOur‐ and red‐ tiled rOOfS,iS `ぶ

ite region of Slovenia. You can explore

No籠niska

en“

in

pЮ vince.r you cm imを リ エ dimbing theα油に,c MI■ 色 o“ 工 Di3ney‐ t get the prtut.Fo,luny Ⅲ Venc■ .a het wШ LoleoF● C hi8bllュ 18oftherdP “ bsloven魃 _apagengbtoutoflm“ 、し :。 、 “ 。:力 ′G′″ ′ ′ :レ ′ Hα疱 Aカメ:`′ ′ `″li`′speleolol:ist “ wlio "・ die words of ュFre“ wЮ に in 1955: In thc Post● na Cave the

●︱ ︱ ︱ ︲ヽ

К ①浄

撃 い鰤

ｈこ

鵡 い

こkOcjan caves

¨ 施

`

〓０■０バ＞ ﹁コ一

thrOugh sinkholes and funnels.Some go on to produce large underground caverns like thc cⅣ es tt sk∝jm.■le cacium bicarbO_ nae frOm the dripping water beloW CrCttCS Std∝ titS(he OnCS th■ hang dOWn)and

Though the weather is very pleasant for

184 Pnrnorska― SkocJan Caves spelcologist sees everything he cOuld desire,

The Caves

but thc SkocJan Caves have no conlParison

lf you have sOrne tilne to spare before your tour depans,f。 110w the pa1l leading n01th

in thc worid.'

The SkocJan cavcs(SkOcJanske Jarnc),

and down somc stcps,oin thcrcccPtion arca

5knl long and 25011l deep,wcrc carvcd out by the Rcka River,which onginates in the

for 3(Ю m to the iookout(it is signpOstcd

foothills ofMt Sneを nik to the south― cast.'The Rcka enters the caves in a gorgc bclow the vnlage ofも koc」 an(sm catti話 。 in ltdian)

ltdiam).Extending before you is a superb

and cventually Πows into thc 13)ead IL′ ake 01■ VO■ Ю),WheC it diSappearS.It Surf¨ es “ time as the Timavo River― at again― this D)uino in ltaly,some 40km to the north‐

west,

beforc cnlptying into the Gulf of T｀ ricste.

The cavcs―

or at least their entrances―

くＹ∽匡０〓 一 ∝住

were known by pnehistoric People who shel― teped in thcm or used them to make sacnices

to● e gods ofthe underworid.Janez Vajkard Valvasor described thern and thc phenorne‐ non of the disappearmg Reka in his encyclo―

padiC WOrk乃 ′G′ οη げ ′ λ

ε妙 グ Cα ″ `D“ but rcal ″」 οι α in thc late 17th century, exploration did nOt start until thc mid‐

19th

century. Organised visits followed sOOn

`Razgledigё e/1Belvedere' in Slovene and ViSta Of thC VClika l)。

lina(Big Valley)and

gorge whe“ the Rcka stans its subteralcan

jOumCy(md C10SetO WherC yOu Wllemerge from thc caves). Across the 180rn―

dee,

gOrge tO the eaSt iS the VillagC Of Sk。 可an

and the 17th century Church of St Can‐ tianus.StlCantianus is the prOtectOr against evil spirits and■ 。ods and is alsO the caves'

namesake.He's a good inan tO knOw in this volatile part of SIovenia.

Vlsitors to the caves assernble around the picnic tables across frOm the restaurant atthe reception a・ea and walk with their guides for about 5001n down a gravcl path tO the nlain entrance in thc c10ё ak valley.ThrOugh an a“ iicialtunnel builtin 1933,you soon reach

afterward, but the cavcs never becaine thc

the head Of the Siient Cave(Tiha Jana),a dry branch of the underground canyOn that

tOuriSt meCCa that POStttna did;eleCtriC

stretches for 500■ 1.'The irst section,called

lightingヽ vas not even installed until 1959.

Paradise,is■ lled with beautiful sレ 1lactites,

・Iloday, visitors can explore about 2k■ l of

s鯰 lagmites and■ Ow stOncs;the second part

thesc spectacular caves. lJNESC〕 C)included thc caves and sur― rounding naturc rcserve in its Wiorld Natural

(Called Calvary)WaS OnCe the nVer bed.The snent cave ends tt the creat Ha‖ (vclika

Dvorana),120m wide and 30m high.It is a

Hentagc Listin 1986.

jungle of cxotic dnpstones and dcPOSits; kecp an eye Open fOrthe stalagrnitecalledthe

Orientation&information The ca、 ′ cs arc at Matavun, a snlali villagc

お out l.5km cast of the main ttub」 ana― Iく oper highway.'The c10sesttown ofany sizc

is Divata(pop 1750),about 5km to the nonh― west.Divaё a's train staion,where buscs stop as wen,is on Trg 15 Ap la about 600rn、 vest ofthis highway.

The inお mlation omcc(雪 31361)at the caves'reception area is opcn frorn 9 anl until

the lasttourdcpa■ ls.1｀ he snlallshop oppOsitc SeliS a feW g00d guideS and inapS(inCluding aUNⅡ〕C01:5α Ю― de onc)to the caves and surrounding arcas.「“ Γhere's a lPost ofFice in Divaё a at the start of Kiraζ ka cesta and a

Giant and the one nanled the(Drgan.

'I'he sound of the Rcka River rushing through cascadcs and whirlp001s below signals your cntry intO thc astonishing MI‖ er Ha‖ ,with walls l(Ю m high.To get overthe Reka you must cross Hanke Canal

Bridge,45m high,naTow,and surely the highlight Ofthe tnp.lCount yOur blessings as yOu d。 (OrdOn't)100k dOWn;the CatWalk th江

a1lowed visitors to crOss Over into long, naTow Svetina Hal:befOre this b dgc was built 60 years ago was 20■ l highen

(:)nly experienced speleologists are allowed to explore the caves and halls in the

5krn-long siphon that extends downward tO

BankaKOperbranchjustwestoftheRisnik

the north― wcst

pcns10n.

century or so the siphon gets blocked and the

ending at Dead Lake.Every

Primorska― ′

もkocJan Caves 185

caves are f100ded. rhis happened rnOst

stones and rock formations.lE.nouire at the

recently in 1965.

Lipica Stud Farm or the SkocJan Caves

From Svetina Hall you climb up a pah

rcccption areas.

hewn intO thc sЮ ne to Bowis Ha‖ ,remark―

Places to Stay&Eat

able for its rare bowl― like pans、 vhich were

formed iom c」 cium dcPOSits whcn water ioOding the cave churned and swined up tO the ceiling.They look like troughs or nce tc“ aces.The

inal section,Schmidi Ha‖

,

oPcns on to theヽ 4elikaE)olina.F'rorn here you

walk past￢

ominO Cave,wherc inds"om a

′ I｀

he closest ca′ ″ P sJ``(●

82611)to the caves

is at Kozina,7k■lsouth ofI)ivaё a.It's a tiny placc,barely covering a hectare,and is full Of caravans and cars.It's open frorn May to Septenlbcr and costs 800 S11｀ per person. I)ivaё a is thc only place to stay ncar the

cavesunlcssyOuwanttoheadlorScZana,adull

and Overa wakway ne″ thc Natural Bridge to the funicular,which canies you 90rn up

ere are place 9km to the no■ h― west whcre twO sm」 l hotels:he 2bみ οr(● 31551)neそ r the train station at K。 lodvorska ulica 4 orthc m″ g″ ッ(● 31361)at Partzanshulica l.They are bOth fairly nOndescnpt but rcasOnable at about 3600 SI「 lor a singlc Ⅵith shower and breakfast and 54()()SIr lor a doublc.

the rOck face tO cIOse tO the reception arca.

:Ylou rnav bc surprised to learn tllat the Skoc」 an Cavcs arc hoine to an incrediblc

anlount of flora anci fauna:250 varictics of plants and ivc diffcrent types of bats.'The 13° C

In Divaё a,the Rι s″ jた pension(● 60008; fax 73 384)at l【 raぶ ka cesta 24,about 40()rn

prCtty Wet and Slippery in thC high humidiけ ) and atOκ h(■ 6hlighO aC」 SO r∝ )。 mmended.

notth of the rnain highway to thc caves and thc coast,has 10 dark and dingy roorns for which they ask an outragcous4250/650()SI「

tenlperature in the caves is constant at about

so you should bnng」 ong a lightjacket orsweatcr G∞ dw」 鳳ng ∝ s(hewayca rt

'I｀

he caves can be visitcd scven tinles a day

lor singics/doublcs. 1■ rith thc highway so

缶om June to Septcmber at 10 and ll.30 am and onthe hourfrom lto 5 pnl.InApril,May

closc, a busy petrol station oppositc and

and(Dctobcr there are tours at 10 anl and at l and 3.30 prn.F｀ rorn Novenlber to March, visits arc allowed on Sunday and holidays at 10 am and 3 pm only.'I・ he entry fec is 1500

very noisy here. The Risnik has a gloorny restaurant that

he tours,much less stmctured thm at Postojna Cavc,aK)given in lEve differcnt languages S11｀

for adults and 120()SITforchildren.'I｀

buscs and trains hcading for the station,it is

scrvcs fairly decent food. A rnuch more (IJ“ ″ οッ ″ra″ ,a ccn征 staurant 150m to me north‐ east at Kraζ ka “ cesta 32.■ has solme good

pleasant place to eat in I)ivaё a is the」

pastadisheslike ngoki and pizza(around 950

(the guideS Will SCparate yOu)and take abOut llレ タhours.

SIT)aS Wellお itS OWn hOme― made Teran

Activities

and Lipica,has horses for hire.An exccllcnt

CttinO a街 。ining the dining ЮOm StayS Open to 2 arn).Nearbv at KraSka cesta 26 is the 17th century Shatelj HOusc,the oldest tra¨ ditional Kiarst house in Slovenia.It'snow a

excursion would be to rlde for a couple of kilornetres north― west to 803rn‐ long

gallery, open Saturday and Sunday Only 彙om 2to 4 pm.

wine.The Klunov Hrain is open dally from

ll am b 10 pm(thOugh the peSky mini The Fanna I)iolned(● 60003)in Lokev (housc No 230),halfway bctwecn Divaё a

Vilenica(Cave(Jama VileniCa), the irSt

Thcre's a restaurant called PrJ Jα

l“

j atthe

karst cavc tO Open tO the public in the early

caves'reception area open dally frOm 9 am

19th ccntury and still welcorning guests

to 8 prn.

every Sunday at 3 pΠ l. DivaCa Cave (E)ivaSkaJarna),about 3knl north― easton the road to I)ivaё a,is open Only by alTangernent.

ne Sttcjan Caves a“ about 5km by road

It is only 672rn long but has excellent drip―

south― east of the I:)ivaё a train station.

■コ﹄ 〓０”∽バ＞

prehistoric sc■ lcment have bccn uncarthcd,

186 Pril■ lorska― Lipica

ctting there by public transport can be tricky, but the drivcr of any bus heading

(:〕

that limestone.Indeed,the word′ ′ ′J“

in

Siovene ineans`little linden',after the trees

along thc highway to/frorn the coast will let

that grow in such profusion here.The mod―

you off at the access road if you ask in

erate,dry climate allows ideal condi■ ons for

adVanCe(there are huge SignS annOunCing the caves).From there you can w」 k the

breeding horses with spced, strength and

● einaining l.5km to the caves'entancc.All

starnina.

Thc stud fTm“ m」 ned me prope■ y of

and August)pass through Divaё a■ om

thc court inヽ 7ienna until the end of NVヽ Vl when the ltalians took control of Primorska province.IIerds were rnoved to IIungary and then Austna but the change in cliinate took its toll.In 1943,with WWn still raging,the Germans moved morethan 2(Ю horsesto the

巧 ubijana and POStOjna On thCir Way tO the cOast and desinatiOns in Croatia.The■ rst leaves Divaё a■ 7 am,the last■ 7.05 pm.

Sudeteniand in Boheinia(■ OW the CZCCh Rcpublic).When ttc arca was liberatcd by Amcrican loκ esin 1945,most ofthe horscs

Divttais on thcralllinelinkingttubjma

andthe studfarm's archives were shipped off to ltaly.Sadly,only ll horses retllriled when operations resuined at Lipica in 1947.

in all,it's probably casierto go thcre on foot

via a 3km path that leads south― east iom Divaё a and thrOugh the village of Dol可 e lL′

eZeё e

to Matavun.

About half a dozen buSeS aday(12 in July

くＹ∽〓０〓 一 ∝Ｌ

(104km;11%hours)wim Seを ana(9km:10 minutes).Divaё ais」 so the railhead foreight

Today,the“

trains a day to Koper(49km;50 minutes)via

arc 2(Ю Lipizzaners“ main―

Hrpelje Kozina as wel1 8 up O ive dally

ing atthe origind stud farm while`gcnuinc'

trains to Buzet and Pula in Croatia.

Lipizzaners are bled in v`rious locations around the world:(〕 roada,Hungary, Italy, Slovakia and cvcn in thc Almencan state of

LiPiCA

25 。a′t,a cο d′ ●θ67・ ′οs,cο d`62ノ θ ・ ′ο ρノ

IIlinois.The stud fa・ rn at Pibei no■ (:〕

west of I)iv:鷲 ;a,on the world of spo■ has

the Spanish Riding School.

been fa・

glに ater

h‐ cast

of

raz in Austria,now breeds the horses for

The iinPact of lし ipica, soine 10km south‐

than its tiny size would

suggcst.In 1580,in what was thcn callcd Lipizza,the Austrian AКhduke Ch:rles,son of iFerdinand I, established a stud farin 夕′ α″,α )tO breed hOrSeS fOr the SpaniSh (た ο Riding Schoolin Vlenna. ′

orientatiOn a:nfOrinatiOn Lipicalies 2km westofhe ltalian borderand 5km south of Settana.The centre of every‐

thing,of coursc,is the stud farm in the south‐ west corner ofthe village and the two

he riding school had been founded eight years earlier to train hoses for the impe 」

hotels nearby.

court and was looking for a lighter,Inore

fax 72 818)atthe enLalce to

clegant breed for pa・ades and milita,y pur‐

can change nloney,but it takcs a 29る mlsslon.

I｀

pOSeS(WhiCh WOuld latCr lead tO the developmcnt of drcssage).Andalusian holses froin Spain were coupled with the local Karst breed tllat the Rornans had oncc used to pull chariots― and the Lipizzaner was

The tounstinformation oficc(1'31580; e stud fam co,in‐

Lipica Stud Farrri Tlours of the 311‐ hecta“ , stud farm begin opposite the infor:mation and ticket Office;

bom.Butthey weren't quite the snow― whiに beauties we know today.Tho∝ didn'tcomc about for anothcr 2α )yca・ s when white

simply wat by the sign be`ring the name Of

Arabian hoscs gotinto the act. It's casy to sce why both Charlcs and the nags liked the placc.ThOugh vely inuch part

guide wi1l ind you.

the language you wantto hearitin(:E〕 nglish,

Gcrman,F“ nch,Italian or Slovcne).■

1le

A visit covers thc stables,one of which dates from 1703,and he nding h」 ls to give

n Kast'

you an idea of whatit's like to learn dressage

(as Lipica is c」 led)feels like Eden anter dl

and control a very large anirnal.:But frankly,

of the region,this`oasis in the ban℃

Primorska― Lipica 187

Dancing Horses 0 bo the fined わ「

加 υfo

改 ゎ′ θ

inゎ

irs

not

and the

﹁コ“ 〓０コ∽六＞

pЮcoss.Their s‖ n

silky manes years and are you out

stronger

ith endlcss facts, the tour is a littic boring、 ′

to 6 pm.From Aprilto October,tours,which

igurcs and horsc pcdigrces.

are mandatory,lcavc at 10 and ll am and

・ hC highlight Of a ViSit(if yOu Can tiFne it I｀

nght)is thc pcrformancc Of mese elegant hOrscs as thcy go through their conlplicated paccs with riders aれ ε οs′ ′ ″ `. It's not as conlplcte a sho、 v as the one“at thc Spanish

then hourly fronl l to 5 pm wcekdays with an additionaltour at 9 am atthe、 veekend.In July and August thcrc arc tours on thc hour seven days a wcck frorl1 9 to ll am and i to

6pm.From Novcmbcrto Fcbruary therc arc tours on、 ′ cckdays(at ll aril and 3

Riding School in Vienna or in such ornatc hite surroundings, but watching great 、′

only t、 vo

horses pirouctting and dancing to Viennese waltzes so■ of makcs up for it.If you miss

、'cekend.In March,weekday tours are at ll ∼

the performance,at icast try to be around when ttc horscs are moved iom the stables tO paSture(uSually befOre 9 am)and again in thc latc aftcrnoon.It's stunning to see thern gallop past.

Ybu can visit thc Lipica Stud Farin throughout the ycar and it's opcn fron1 8 arn

∼

pm)with two morc at l and 2 pm at thc am and l,2 and 3 pm and at he weekend江 10 and ll ain and hourly"om ito 4 pm. Tickets cost I)Mi8 to I)M10 for adults, depending on the season,and I)M4orI:)M5 for children.

Exhibition pcrforinanccs takc place from

May to ScPtclΥ lber at 3 prn on'Tucsday, Friday and Sunday: in Aprll and(:)ctober

188 Primorska― Hrastovlje they are at 3 pm on IFnday and Sunday only.

It haS a p001(C10Sed Sunday in Sumine→

Admission to the perfornlance, which

is sligh」 y closer to the stud fanll.

The Maestoso h`Б a∫ ′ ,α

includcs tllc tour of thc stu(l farnl,is I)M20

and

らαr widl a `た

for adults and DM10 1or childrcn.

terracc caf6 open frorn 8 anl to ll prn.1lhe

beSt(ald mOSt eXpenSiVe)e■ ery in the Activities Some 60 horscs are available for riding both in the ring and the open countryside at 8.30

and 9.30 am and thcn■ 5 and 6 pm from Junc to Scpteinbcr and at 9.30 and 10.30 ain

and 3.30 and 4.30 prn frorn (E)ctober to March.′ I'he costfor

ding in a guided group

is I)M25 1)er hour ・rhere is also a large choicc ofcoursesincluding group classes for くＹＯ匡Ｏ 〓 一 工Ｌ

beginners(DiM35)ald intrmediate nde郎 (DM30)md individual classes in dcssage

cOmplex is me L″ たαwine cellar restaurant. Entertainlment The Cα sj″ OL″ ,ca(奮 72368)atthc Mac‐ stoso hotelis opcn from 3 pnlto 2 or 3 am

Monday to Saturday (nOOn t0 2 anl on Sunday).・ 1lle hOtel alSO haS a diSCO/night‐ club called the P′ gas iK7“ うopen daily frorn ll am to 5 Pm.

ng There&Around

(DM iCЮ ).There Tc week■ ong courses too:

Ge

six帥 o‐ hour lessons for beginncrsの M336),

Most people visit Lipica as a day tnp from

clas“ s

I:)ivaё

br advanced ridcrs(DM300)md

a or Settana,both of which arc On the

s(DM540;minimum L‐ level).

railline Oコ ubjana.YOu Can taChthem On

For the kids andノ or the tirllid there are pony

up to five buses a day dunng the schOOl ycar, between o and three buses in surnrner and on holidays. 11lc Maestoso hotel has bicycles fOr rcnt

dressage clas“

ndes(】 )M12)and hal← hour/hour carriage jaunも お r DM14/25.

72

Thc ncarby Lipica Golf Coursc(● 930)htt ninc holcs for a p征 36,a d

ving

range and a couplc of lputting greens.1『 hc green fecs are:DM30ノ 46 on weekdays/at the weekend and you can rcnt a full set of clubs

br DM10. Renting onc ofthe five tennis courts nea:r the Maestoso hotel costs bet、 veen I)M12 and

I])M16, depending on the tirne and day. A racqucプ set of balls costs I)M6ノ 3 per hour.

br DM5 per hour(DM8わ r two hours)or I:)M15 a day.

HRASTOVLJE

a cο ′ ′●θ67・ ′ο s′ ′′6275 ・ ′ο ′′25 。αη “ ne=the souκ e `ο Hrastovlje lies ofthe RiZana

River, whose valley el“ iectivcly for:ns the

boundary between the Karst and the coast.

From he“ ,n。 ■hwttd m the vmagc of ёmi

Piaces to Stay&Eat

Kal and on to OsP,a row of fortresses wcrc built below the liincstone plains du ng the

There are two hotelsin Lipica,both inanaged

Bronze Age,which the lllyrian tribe of

by one cOmpany and costing the saine:

IIistrians later adapted tO their needs.The

singics with breakfast and showcr a・

eDM56

vallcy and the surrounding areas wOuld

to I)M82, depending on the seasOn, and

prove to lbe safe havens fOr later inhabitants

doubles I):M182 to I)M120.But these prices a薫 ,discounted heavily for stays Of a wcek or nlore if you ι re taking a riding course.

during the Great Migrations and the・ rurkish invaslons.

The 65-roomル ′ α′sゎ sο

(雪

31580;fax 31

'I｀

he Rornanesquc church in this tiny

Village in a valley betwcen the Karst region

409 or 72 818)has most of the amenities,

and the SIovenian cOastis the lstl■ an equiva‐

inCluding an indOOr SWiinrning poOl(C10Sed

lent of St John the lBIaptist's(E:hurch in

Tuesday;DM7/6 for adultsた hild“ n),sauna

(DMll)and tcnnis courts nearby ct.The 80-room κ′ ′ら (雪ノ ねx same)is gcnerally

BohinJ.OK,so it's not on a lake.But it is sinall, surrounded by rncdieval 、 valls with cornertowers and cove“ d inside with extra‐

reserved lorthose staying lorlongerpcriく )ds.

ordinary 15th century frescOcs.

Pnmorska― Hrastovlje 189 HraStOVtC and itS li■ lC ChurCh― the famOuS

Church ofthe Hoiy Trinity This church,wim a nave and twO aisles,was built between the 12th and 14th centuries in

the southenl Rornanesque style though the f01威 licadOns

were added in 1581 in advallce Ofthe()ttornans.As you approach this struc― turc of grey Kiarst stonc at the south― eastern

Dance of Death fresco(also c」 led the

Dansc Macabre)showing ll skelctons

ard leading the sarne numbcr of people forⅥ ′ to a freshly dug grave,a pick and shovel at the ready.A12th skeleton holds a list of the `invited'。

・The linc‐ up includes a child, a

end ofthe village,justimaginethetarinthe hearts ofthe men,wolnen and childrcn who

beggar, a soldier, a banker, a rnerchant, a

scranlbled to protect what they lnust have considered to be the nlostiniportantthing in

an cnlpero■ Underthe nun you can see graf―

rnonk,a bishop,a nun,a queen,a king and ■ti

their lives.

left by a visitor in 1640.

([〕

T'he sornbre exterior does not prepare you for wh江 's inside;the coinplcte interiorofthe

hOulish and strange though the I)ancc of

Dcath may appea to be d flrst,it carnes a simple message― we are all equalin the eyes

church is icstooncd with narrativefrescoes

of God no matter how impo■ ant wc(or

panted by Johannes de CaStu。

OttCrS)think WC tte in thiS mOrt」

(John Of

Kastav neな Rijek→ around 1490.lhc paint‐ ♭′ ′ α′α″ ings are a β′ ′′″″ of the “ ' a`Bible poor'一 to help the illiterate understand the 01d'Ilestanient stories,the Passion of C:hnst and the lives ofthe saints.Itis a uniquc way

to sce and understand how our ancestorS viewcd theirlives,joys,ho"S and sufferings

sOrne five centuries ago. Spare the 20

liた・It

WaS

a radical cOncept,pcrhaps,for thc late 15th

century in a rcmote part of Europe,and it reinains a sobering and thought‐ provoking one today. (I)ut in the cOunyard,havc a look around at the two corner towers and ancient walls, which a,c atleast a metre thick.■ 1lc strange cliffs ofloose rock to thc north make up the

ROb― the very`Edge ofthe Karst'一 abOve the village of Cmi Kal,marking the

minutcs it takes to listenわ ぬe taped com― mentary thtt will guide you around he litle

K:raさ ki

church in English,(:lerrnan, Italian or

end of the stony lilnestone plateau and the stan Of a green valley leading to thc sea. Could itbe thatthislittlechurch betwcen two wOnds was placed in this geOgraphicalliinbo

SiOvene.It's dull with acapit」 `D',butthere

′ ise. Facing you as you cnteris the man dtar,

are a lot of things you'd iuss othel印

calved in thc 17th century,and the central apse with scenes froln the Cruciixion on the celling and po■ ralts of the T nity and thc

Apostles. C)n the arch, Mary is being CrOWned Queen Of HCaVCn.TO the nght Of the centrd alsle at episodes■ om the seven days of Creation,to the lei the stoつ ′Of

on purposc' Entry to Holy Trinity Church cOStS 300 SIT for adults and 150 SIT for students and children.It is usually open every day from

rnorning to dusk but should you find it iOcked,get the key"om house No 30inthe v]lage.It'saive‐ minut w」 kfrointhechurch.

Adain and Evc,as wellasthe murderofAbcl

by Can― 」leそ sy stories for an unschooled

Getting There&Away

15th centuう ′peasant to coinprehend.(On the CellingS Of the n。 lth(left)and SOuth(right)

Hrastovljeis31kmsouth― west ofDiv“ ao∬

aSleS are SCeneS frO:n daily life(SOWing, hunting,■ Shing,lnddng WinC)aS Well aSthe

he inain highway to the coast;Koper is

18km o■ e

north― west.Any

bus heading

along thiS rOad in either direCtiOn Will drOD

southernnlost wall, including his descent

yOu offJust west of Crni K」 ,but it's still mother 6km south Ю Hrastovlje.One ofthe thrcc dany buses iom Kopcr Ю Buzet in

intO helL wheredeVIS are attaCking himWith

C〕

calendar year and its seasonal dutics. ChriSt'S Pa3SiOn iS depiCted atthetOp OfthC

roatia could get you closer,but without a Car Or biCyCle(Or a hOrSe Or bul10Ck Cart)thC only suκ way of making itto Hmstovije is

blazing cannons.

｀ Yies,I've

saved the best bit forlast.:Below

thc Passion is what atracs most people

Ю

by train.

190 1P

morska― Kolχ r

Unfo■ unately,the tains do not have a vcry extcnsive or nexible schedule.A tain leaves IDiv“ a dally at 7.43 am,amving at HrasЮ vlje station at 8.16 am;the chuК h is about lkm to the nollll― wcst.■ hc

ncxttran

of any kind through this backwater is the

7.13 pnl frorn Koper, which gets into Hrぉ.Ю vlje 20 minutesl江 er.The train caTies on to Divだ a,Postoり na and LJubliana. If vou're driving south to the coast on highway No 10,takc the irst le■

after Crni

Kal, which is the road hcading south for Buzct and Pula in Croatia,and follow the

KOPER

θ ′●θ 66・ ′ο rο ど′6て χη ・ α″ar`χ′ ・ ′ο ′2イ ,イ θ '′ Koper is a workaday port city thtt hadly givcs tounsnl a sccond thought.Itis much less crowded and uppity than its ritzy cousin Piran,17k■l down the coast,but despite the surrounding industry, conセliner ports and high― nse

buildings,Koper has lnanaged to

prcserve its cornpact medieval centlK). Its

recreational area, the scasidc resort of Ankaran,isto he north across Kopcr Bay. History Iく oper has been known by ■lany nalmles through its long and turbulent history.As an

signs br Hrastovlje. くＹＯ匡０ コ ︼ ∝Ｌ

island separated frorn the rnainland by a canal,it was called Acgida by ancient Glcek

The Coast

sailors,Capns by the Romans(who found it

SIovcnia's very short coast(47knl)on the A(lriatic Sea is both an area of history and 震,creation. Threc irnpo■ ant towns full of Venetian Go■ ic TchitcctuК and at(Koper, Piran,IZOla)Will kCep eVen thC mOSt indC― fatigable of sightscers busy, and there are bcachcs,boats for rent and rollicking discos in those towns as well as at Portoroを and

being uSedtO ralSe goatS)andJuStinOpOliS by thc Byzantincs.■ ・ hc Patri`rchs of Aquileia, who took over the town in thc 13th ccntury and nlade it the base for thcir cstatcs()n the lst an peninsula,rcnamed it Caput Histnae ― `Capital of lstna'一 fro:n which its lt」 ian name capodistia is derlvcd.They f。 ■ined the town and erectd solne of Kolχ r's most

bcautiful buildings,including its cathedral

and pdaccs.

Ankaran.

Koper's golden agc,though,camc dunng

Butthe coastis notcverybody'scup oftea.

thc 15th and 16th centurles under the donll‐

It is very overbunt,jammed from May to

nation of the ヽ4enetian Republic. Trade

Septenlber and the lwater is nOt especially clean.Many Siovenes give it a rnissin favour

increased and Koper becarne the adininistra‐ tivc and Judicial ccntit for lstria as far as Buzetto the south east and Novigrad on the coast.It also had a inonopOly On salt,which

Of the unspoiled beachcs of lstria oriDallna‐

tia,leavingitto Gennan,Italian andAustrian

tounsts.r you want solitude,head for thc

Austria so desperatcly nceded. IBut when

hintcrland to the south Or east where

Triesに ,some 20km to the nOrdl‐ east,was

`SIovcnian lstria' still goes abOut its daily

prOClal■ ned

life.()r spend an afternoon atthe cerily tran― quil Salt panS Of Seё oVbC

century and the lHIabsburgs opened a rallway

he Koper wine‐ producing area is known

a free pOrt in the carly 18th

line between ヽ′ icnna and 「F cste in 1857,

bri"white Malv2ijaand ChTdOnnり and

[Opcr's fate was scaled.Many ofthe coasLn peoplc inoved inland to raise grapes,olivcs

red Rcfoこ k.A numヒ x)r ofculturd events takc

and stonc frults.

T｀

placc during thc Piran MusicallEvenings and

Pnmorska Sum■lcr Festivalin Koper,Izola, Piran and Portoroを in July and the ist haf

of August.Beι

u・

in nllnd that many of thc

hotels,carnp sites,tourist offlces and icstau― rantS CIOSC dOWn dunng the Off―

SeaSOn(缶 Om

NovembertolMa●ch or aslae as Apnl).

Iく

BCtWeen the two world wars,Koper was administcted by the ltalians,who launched an aggressive prOgrain of ltalianisatiOn, ciosing bilingual sch。 。ls and keeping c10se tabS On SIOVenian intellectuals. Aier the defeat of ltaly and(〕 ernlanyin

WI,the

diSputed arca of thc Adnatic coast―

thc

Pnmorska― Koper 191 este― was ed F"e Terntory of T divided intO twO zOnes.Undcr the London

Post&loortrnunications The inan post

Agreelmcnt of 1954,Zonc B and its capital

is open frorn 7 ain to 8 Pnl on weckdays,to

KOpcr went to YugOslavia whilc Zone A,

7 pn1 0n Saturday and fron1 8 am tili noon on

i“ ludngThcste,Hlun“ rlttianju

Sunday.■ lekom Slovenjc is in the next

sO‐ caⅡ

sdiction.

Upto25,(X)O Italian― speaking lstnans ned

office is next to the train and bus station.It

building.Much rnore convenient is the post

ce branch■ Muzejski trg 3 near the

tO Trieste,but 3ooO stayed on in Koper and

o

Other cOastal se■ lements.・ Ibday

regional nluseurn.Itis Open Weekdays frorn

Koperisthe

ccntre of the ltalian ethnic corninunity Of Slovcnia and ltalian is widely spoken here.

7 al■ lto

11ldecd, Kopcr is one Of thc few Places in

Trave:Agencies lhcre is no tounst oflice

s10vcnia whcre English and Gcrman is ottcn

as such in Kopcr; seekl assistance from sIOvcnlatunst(● 271 358),opposiじ the

use when dealing with rniddle― aged and older people. of lit」 e

1950s.1ヽ Iotonly is itSlovenia's SOlepoll:(and

Aust

a's inaln shipping outlet)but also a

business and industrial ccntrラ .Itis thelargcst

marinaatUkmttev trg7 ando"n wcekdays frOm 9 am t。 l pnland 4to 7 pm on weckdays

and on Saturday FnOrning,Or frOnl Kompas (●

272346)opposite the outdoor inittket at

Pristaniも kaulica

17 andopen wcckdaysfrom

town by f.。 n mc cOast.

8 anlto 7.30p■ l and to l prn on Saturday.

Orientation

甘ain statiOn Open weckdays fron1 6`un to 7.30 pm and on Saturday and Sunday lrorn

SlovenlJaturist also has a cOunter inside the Koper's serni‐ circular 01d l10Wn Was an isiand until the carly 19th century when it

was joined b the mainlmd by a CauSeWay and latcr by landfill.′ 1loday it's dil圧 icult to

6 arn to 3 prn then again from 6 to 7.15 pnl.

・ hey change travellers cheques for a 3% I・

cOminisslon.

imaginc it as a scparatc cntity as you travel

fromぬ e combinedbus and tttn stttionjust over lkm t。 ぬe sou Iく

_cast a me end of

ConsulateThc ltalian Consulate is at Bclve‐ der 2 opposite the batll house.

【 。lodvorska cesta. The centie of the(Dld・ 1lown is Titov trg,a

mavcllous Gothic― Renaissance squareヽ vith 、4enetian innuences. The inanna and tiny city beach ae to the north―

west.

inforrnation

Money Banka Koper,which doesn't ch`u・ gc a conlinission on travellers cheques,has a branch■ Kid ёevaulica21 atw doors west

Walking￢ our The casiest way to sec alrnost everything of

intcrest in Kopcr's Old Town is simply to wak frOm the marina On ukmar」 ev trg east aong Kidriё cva ulica to Titov trg and then sOuth dOwn Cevijarska ulica,tahng various detours along the way.

The irst stop is Carpacciov trg behind

Ofthe regiOnal museurn.Itis open fron1 8.30

thc Taverna restaurant where the Coiurnn of

am till noon and from 3 Ю 5 pm weekdays

bu‐ SIt Justin coinincnlorates Koper's contl■ tiOn_a gallcy― to the Batdc of lκ panto in

and saturday mOmmg.There'san SKB Banka with a Cirus― linked ATM tt Ferrarska ulica 6 to the south‐

east ofthe 01d Town.There

are alsO a couplc Ofprivate exchange ofFices

on PnstaniSka ulica.Maki at No 13 nextto the IIeitz ofFice is open Monday to Saturday

from 7.30 anlto 7 pnl.Feniks,in the cast

wing Of the large shopping connplex and markct across he strect,is opcn weekdays ,om 7 ain to 7 pm and on Saturdayto l pm.

which Turkcy was detated by hc European powers in 1571.Nearby is a large Roman covercd basin. (:)n the north side ofК lidnё evaulicayou'11

pass several disused churches and,at No 20, the 16th century椰 otto PaiaCe With a relief

Ofthe winged lion of St Ma・ k taken from Kopcr's inedieval fortress.()ppositc, at Kidriё eva ulica 33,are sonne wonderinul old

●コ一 〓 ０ ■０ス＞

Koper has developed rapidly since the

7 pnl and on Saturday till l pnl.

morska― KoFЮ r

192 P

2"d“(p“ つea●

ロ

ロ ロ r´￢

ｎｕ

し」

υ″

y

□. 10 1m

"a″

"

ロ

。い

■●

日 11

“

"い

"

"

口日

くＹ∽匡ＯΣ 一 ∝α

"…

Koper

%

■averna Restaurant

12

Bre Nanos

24

.Atni Pizzena

25

B:fe Diana

34

istrska lCet Restaurant

11

13

Bk)lorarnoni‐ Tacoo

Palace&Museum

Burek ShOD

14 TheatЮ

Lo9gia&Caf6

&Ga‖ eⅣ Ba¨ Stew

OTHER

Ba廿 :House

italian Consulate

3

Sloveniiattl

st

Travel Agen(ツ

4 Customs Wharf

Bruti Pa!ace ０ Ｓ ︲ ｒ

2

(Carmine Rotunda) ｌ ａ血 回 ｒ ｄ ﹄面 ｅ ｈ ｍ師¨

l

■otto Palaco

Ｓ リ

5

7

8 Post Orice 10 Banka Koper

︱ Ｗ ， ０ ｄ Ｊ Ｈ 、 ａ

PLACES TO EAT

０１２ ３ ７ ８９０ １２ ３ ６７８ ２ ２ ２ ２ ２ ２ ２３ ３ ３   ３ “ ３ ３ ３

26 Trigiav Hobl

6 E:ne Disco& Carpacdo Pub

輸 颯 ︶

9 Private Rooms

●“

¨ ｍ PLACES TO STAV

Praeto“ an lPaiace

お nll∞ Fo田 m

Caf6&Pub

Vegebble Mattet

Sur"miaket

Foniks Exchange Bureau

Mak Exchango Bureau

helA90呵

蜃 理謄 gogna Paiace Almo

Kettmikd Koper Shop Da Ponte Fountain

Depanment StoЮ

Muda Gate

∝,GDtt KLADNIK

釘Ⅳ

EFALON

STEVE RALON

A

B

C

A:Laufali mask in Cerkno,Primoに ka B: Kayaking on the Soё a RiVeL Soё a Va‖ ey,Prirnorska

C:Limesbne`bOwls'atthe Skoqan Caves in the Kastreg10n,Primorska

STEVE MLLON

POD∞ RNIK

STEVE FALLON

A: Garden courtyard,Hvala HOtel,Kobarid,Pri:Tlo「 ska B:Section ofthe Dance of Death fresco,Church ofthe Holy Trinitゾ

A B

C

HraStOV!le,PrimOSka C:WOrking the Salt panS at Seё oVlle,near POttoroz,Primorska

,

PnlTlorska―

rnedieval to、 ″n houses with protruding upper storeys palnted red,gold and green.

The Koper Regiona:Museulm in 16th century IBclgrainoni― Tacco Palace at Klid

ёeva ulica 19,has old inaps and photos

Koper 193

and Renaissance styles dating frOm the 15th

century and nOw■ he symbol of Koper The faCade of ttc pal¨ c,Once the residence of

Koper's mayor who was appointed by the dogcin Venice,ischock‐ a― block with medal‐

Of the port and cOast,16th to 18tll century

lions,relefs and cotts ofams ofthe nch and

ltalianate sculptures and paintings and

famous.Thc Praetorian Pala)e wtt oncetwo separate buildings with thc Loggia in the ccntre.Whcn thel誠 rwas movcd acrossthe squale tO itS CuFent “ 10CatiOn,山 e tWO WingS

copies of medicval frescocs.T'he muscum is

suppOsed tO be opcn April to ()ctober,

・ uesday to Sunday froin 9 ain to noon and ag“ nfrom 3to 6 pm(aftemoon hous in July I｀

Ofthe p」 acewecjOinedmdthebattlemen“

and Augusttte 4 to 7 pm),but it's genemlly

added late■

←miss situadon here_Atleast have a l。 。 k at the wonderful brOnze dOOr knOcker

town hall occupies what was al armoury

on the square's wescrn side at No 4,the

a hit_。

sOme four centunes ago.Opposite is the Caト

ofヽ 4enus arising fronl a seashell.

trg,血 c ccntκ of old Kopct is a

beautiful square full ofinteresting buildings;

mercifillly, like rnuch of the ()ld

・3own's

cor),it is closed to traffic.On the north side

thedral of St NazariuS and its scparatc belfry,now c」 led the City￢ ower.You c帥 climb this 36mtowerdaly bctween 9 ain and l plTl and again between 3 and 7 pin.

The cathedral, partly Romanesque and

is the arcaded Vienetian Gothic Loggia built

in 1463.It now contains a coffec housc and the Koper Ga‖ ery,Open frorn 10 anito noon and from 5 to 8 pm Tucsday to Saturday and Sun(lay inorning。 ・Ilo thc south, directly opposite ttNo 3,is he sparkling white prae‐ tOrian Palace,a mixture ofヽ 4enetia1l Gothic

(:〕

Othic but inOstly dating frorn the 18th

centtiry in its present statc,is the sixtl、

church

or On this spot.It has a whic classicd inte with a fceling of spacc and light that bclies the sol■ bre cx鯰 or.lhe caived stone Saト

cophagusbchindthe main altaristhatofthe

Koper's landmark Praetorian Pa:ace is a rnixture of Venetian Gothic and Renaissance styles and dates frorn the 1 5th century.

■コ¨ Ｅ Ｏコ∽パ＞

T臓 。v

194 Pnmorska― Koper cathedrd's(andtown's)paton,a6th century bishop.Anlong the furnishings are choir stdls made from olve wood,an omate 18血

see the city seal― the face of a youth in a sunburst.

century bishop's thmone on the north side and Paintings by Vitore Carpacc:o(1465‐

Activities Iく oper's tiny― and dity― beach is on the

1526),anative ofKoper Thecathedrd doos

north―

are open dally士 oln 7 am till noon and iom

Kopaliも ko nabrettc.It has a small ba血 housc,a grassy area for lying in tlle sun,a restaurant and a snそ Кkb`r.It's opcn daly

3 to 7 pin.

Bchind the cathedral to thc no■ h is a

Romanesquc BaptiSbry(dso called the Carmine Rotunda)dating from me 12th century.

Trg Brolo,which joins Titov trg on i協 castern side,is another square of lRne old

west edge of the C)ld「

I｀

own on

fron1 8 am to 8 Pin in season.

piaces to Stay

Calmping The closest cainp sites are at

くＹ∽ＣＯＥ 一 匡α

buildings,including the baroquc Brutti

Ankaran,about 10km to the no■ h by road, and at lzola, 8km to the lwest. See those

Palace to the north,and on the castem side,

secdons for detalls.

at No 4,thc Fontico,a granそ ry where the tOwn's whett was storcd in thc 14山 centulγ・ Ribiこ ‖ trg,a10‐ minute wak to the nollh‐ e`stfrom here,is an old ishing quarter with

Private Ro● Ins Sloven10atu st alld】 くoinpas have private singles avallable for between I])M17 and I)M29,depending on thc cate―

nttrOw steets and hOuscs daing back tO the

gory and the season, while doubles are

14

centuV・ To getぬ e“ from Trg BЮ lo,

w」 k east」 ong Calkヽ jeva ulica and tum north on to Dlぶ ka ulica.Along the way

I)M26 to I)M49.Apartinents fortwo start at DM50andI)M70.You mustpay a sulに harge of 50%if your stay is less than three days.

you'1l pass the Rotunda of St Ellas,a pre‐ Ronlanesque strllcture that could date back as far as the 91l century.Bosadraga ulica,thc

TheVaStmttOntyOftheЮ OmSareintheneW

next st:cet on the nght,leads into RibiSki trg.

for“ ntin an old town housc.

town bcyond the train station but not dl;the family at Kidriё cva ulica 16 has grcat rooms

Fronl Titov trg continuc the tour by

Walking SOuth a10ng CevilarSka uliCa

HostelI(opcr has onc of Slovenia's six Offi―

t).As you walk under mc

cial hostels― but,asitis a studcnt donnitory,

an Palace,have a look to hole in the wdl with the was the town's sOκ dled

mOSt Of it iS Open in Summer Only・ DJα ぶ た pι ″(● 391 154),a modem ive‐ ' Dο ″ κο storey building at Cankar]eva ulica 6 in the

(Shoemaker's Str(κ arch ofthc Praeto the nght.The little ltalian insc ptions

lion's mouth,where anonymous denuncia‐

01dTown,about50m eぉ tofTrg Brolo,tnts

tions of ofEcials and othcs could be made.

bcds in triple rooms atiDM18 per person, including brcakfast,in July and August.The

CeVliarSka uliCa,a narOW DedeStnan a“ into2upandё evaulic五 (Mり 。 r's Steet).JuSt be10W it,dOWn the StalrS in

rest of the yealr only a handfu1 0f beds are

Gortanov trg at Nb 13 is the Aimlerigogna Palace,a paintedヽ しnetian(〕 Othic Palace

discount.

and arguably the nlost beautiful building in

Hote:s The only hOtelin the()ld TOwn,the 80‐ Юom m″ ig滋 ッ (● 23771;fax 23 598), Prisセ miSh ulica 3,is datively aflod“ b:

strcct,1こ

KolЮ ■It's now a pub. The lttlian family who erected thc foun‐ tain in IPreこ ernOv trg in the 17th century

was namediDa Ponte;thus itis shaped like a b

dge r′

ο″た in ltalian).Atthe southern end

is the Muda Gate,c,ected in 1516 and the last of a dozen such entrances tO rernain Standing.(1)nboth sides ofthe archway yOu'11

avallable.An iHI card nlay get you a small

SingleS with Shower and bre:よ fお t ale DM40 to l)lMi65,depending on the scason,and doubles ID,M54 to lE,M98.The 100‐ rooin Z″ sセ ″,α (● 284385;fax 284 409),the T｀

riglav's sister hotel about l.5krn iwest on

the main COaStal rOad(IStrSka CCSta),iS

P

CheaDet With Singles/dOubles frOin as10w aS

DIM137/55 to DM52/68.The Zusterna has a swinl■ ung pool on the edge ofthe sea.

Piaces to Eat eva ulica 17 nextto Thc βグυNα ″οs atiKidΠ ё

morska― Kolχ r 195

The E′ ′ ″ is a highК lass nightclub and disco at Calpacciov trg 6(closed Sunday). pα ο The(3α ろ εjο 」 P“ らnext door is pleasant for a dnnk.

thc rcgiOnal nluseum has very basic food and

Things to Buy Kopcr has soine vcry finc shops selling

a s■ lall courtyard in the back. It's open

jewellc,,tCXtiles andお 1に raft atthe eЖ tem

MOnday tO Saturday to l10 prn. lFor fiied たsみ ο dough on the go,hcad for the ι ′ ワ)at

end of Kidritcva ulica nefr TiЮ v trg.Most ShODS C10Se fOr SieSta betWeen abOut l and 4

““ No 8 in the sanle steet. A decent place for a cheap and fast rnea11 αat Cevtarska ulica 36 is he li■ le B:ル D″ ″ with ё evapё iё i,harnburgers and so o■ . It's Open to 10 pm daily.A pizzcna c」 led ArrJ ulica 2 is opcn inost daystill 10

prn.

one ofthe most coloumul placesin Iく

。per

and ion1 8 am till noon on Saturday)at Cevljarskaulica4haslovelyArtDecopieces in silver and onvx,coral etc.For ceranucs, try Keran■ kaICopcr atiZupanё iё evaulica41. Itis Open froin 9 anlto noon and 5 to 7 prn wcekdays and from 9 ain till noon on Satur‐

′rin an Old palace for a mealis the rsrrsた ακ′ at Zupanё iё eva ulica 39.:Filling set lunches

day.

go for 850 SIT,ald there's draught wine

Getting TheR〕

鈍raight from the barrcl.This is he pla)e to 仕oln the Kattt and coasta wine‐ growing

Bus Although traln depanucs arc liinited, thc bus scrvice to and,om Kopa is excel‐ lcnt.There are departures almost eveっ ′20

aに,as.Istrska lKict is open ti11 9 pm.

minutS On WeCkdayS tO L01a,Stru■

try TCran,thC hearty red(」

mOStpuple)Wine

1lhe 7aν ι ″a in a 15th century salt ware‐ housc at P)ristaniζ ka ulica l,alinost opposite

&Away

an,

Piran and Portoro2 and every 40 minutes at the weckend.・ The buses start atthe train and

rcstaurants and serves sornc decent fish

bus station and stop at the rnarket on PnstaniSka ulica belore condnuing on to

dishes.

lzola.

tllc inarina,is()ne ofIく

oper's nlore uprnarkct

'rhe large shOpping centre and OutdOOr ″ 々α (ogラ n mostdaysfrom 7 am to 2 pm), `′ also on P staniSka ulica,contains a s″ Pι ″ ″α凛 帥 d V OuSル οどSみ の S. `′

About nine buses a lday leave Koper for Ankaran and Lazaret and between nine and 12 br LJubljana via Divtta and Postojna.

Other dCSinatiOnS inClude:Branik(One Or two buses a day),Celje(■ Ve),Crna na

Korogkem(one),Graё ittc(two to four),

Entertainrnent 271027),north of Titov ″ `α “ `(● 3,puts on plり S,dancc trg at Vcdijevaulica

niska Bist

perfornlanccs and concc■

tW。 ),SCを ana(threC),VelenJC(OnC)and

Kopcr's″

s.

Koper often feels lnore ltalian than SIovenian and at dusk,as in inost cities and towns:К ross the Adriatic,the′ αSSaggね 惚 ― a lot of strolling and strutting―

begins.You

ca(burto six),Maribor(bur), ca(one or

Murska Sobota(two),Nova Co Vrhnika(up tO SiX).

Frequent service(up to 17 buses a day during the WeCk but Only One On Saturday)

o and from ncarby Triesc makes Koper an

cal wach some ofitfrom thelovely Lο ggjα Gを lκP at■ tov trg l(open Monday to Satuト day t0 10 pm),but the OutdOOr Fο ・ ′ ″ ca“ /pub at the west wing ofthc market On“

casy entryた xit point for ltay.Buses run

PnstaniSka ulica facing a little park and the

in Piazza l´ ibcnl).

inanna, is whcrc you'1l see most of the action.

,om 6am to7.30 pm wcckdays(at 7.30 pm Only On Saturday).The buS St江 10n in TrieStC is iininediately south― west ofthe train station

Iく

【 oper also provides an excellent spnng―

board for lstl■ a.I:)estinations on thc Croatian

■力 一 〓 ０ コ∽六＞

at'I｀ riglavska

pm(OreVen lat∝ ).TheSirokajewelle,Shop (OPcn 9 am to l pm and 4to 8 pm weekdays

196 Pnmorska― Ank"an peninsula and their daily departures include:

houses and vineyards above it.Buses stop in

Buzet(thec),Novigrad and Po“ ё(two to

front of the shopping ccntrc on Jadranska ccs● .The Adna reso■ and cainp sit arc

threc),Pula(one or two),R」 cka(one)and Rovi刊 (One).・■lerc Te dso three buses a

opposite.

day to Z:agreb.

infor:nation lrain ■

lく oper

is on a rninor rall line linking it

with Ljubljana(153km;21%hours)via

Thelに 's a tounst inforrnadon kiosk(1●

526

Postojna md Divaё a.To get to Buzet and

116; fax 527 158)in the car park of the shopping centre on Jadranska cesta,()lpen

Pula in Croatia froin hcrc,you must changc

frorn May to rnid‐ Septcnlbcr At othertiincs,

江Div“ aorHrpelje―Kozina

seck assistance from mereceptiondcsk atthe cntrance to the Adria tourist complex. 】 BIanka Iくoper has abranch in the shopping centreOpen weckdays fron1 8.30ain tili noon and 3 to 5 pm and on Saturday inorning。 'The

nve tr

br onc ofup to

ns a day.

Car Kompas Hertz(● 22558)hasrcnt」

cars

availablc froin its office at Pnstanigka ulica

くＹ∽ＣＯ Ｅ ¨ 匡Ｌ

15. Parking in much of the(Э ld llown is estricted― or banned― between 6 am and 8 prn.(Cenerally,you can only park on the ring

post ofEce is on thc westcrn side of the shopping centre at Rcgentova ulica l.It is

Юad orin thc pay car pak nett Trg BЮ lo.

Saturday to l pnl.

Ge"ing Around IL′

ocal buses Nos l,2 and 3 go fronnthe main

bus and iain station to the castem edge of Calka」 eVauliCain the 01d TOWn With aStOp not far fronl Mudaく ]ate.

To order a taxiin Ko"r ring● 21451.

ANKARAN s′ ε α″a cο ど′1'θ 66・ ′ο ο ′′628θ ヽ/ith Koper conce:med prima:ily wiぬ con‐

o′ ο p 282θ o

tainer ships,the role of city playground has

open on weekdaysfrom 8 am o 7 pm and on

Act:v‖ es T｀

he Adnaholiday village,which call accom‐

modate up to 700 people at its hotel, cottages, bungalows and carnp site, ha, a sm」 l pebble )ach below a cement prom‐ enadC,tW0 1argC SWiinnling p001S(One faCeS sou ‐ east b the lstralЮ nzに inery;1∝ Ю sI'r)and sporting facilitics,including tennis

COurtS,nlinigOli tablC tCnniS,baskctb」 court and a ntness centi℃

1

.

Ankaran is the start(or inish)of the

ftten to Anka・ an(Ancaano in ltdian),a

SIovenian Alpine Tr」 lthat goes」 lthe way

sclaside holiday village 10kni by road to the north.There's notmuch atAnkaran― thcirst of the SIovenian coastal reso■ s_apart frOrrl

to Maribor via the SkocJan Caves, the

a largc tourist complex with a camp sitc, hotels and a shopping centte.But it's alush,

M`整 ,si■ 1・ hc whole tnp wOuld take a very fit person arnontl10fwalking,cight hours aday.

very green place with a inild subtropical

Needless to sav,mOst De001e lEnd anOther

cliinate,and ltaly is right around the corncr

Way to gettoも

Just follow the man rOad nOrth― west for 3.5km to the ch∝ kpoint at Lazact(Laz― zaetto).T cstc is dir∝ tly∝ Юss IMuggia Bり (Miljski Z」 iv)o the no h.

Cerkno and ldtta hins,the Julim Alps,the

Kamnik― Savitta Alps and the PohOrJe

向erska f[o「 here.One ofthe flrst stops from Ankaran is Mt Siavnik (1028m),which is about 8km northtぉ t of Hrastovlje.Thet's∝ commodaion at the 田″ οッα κο ″α S′ αッ″jた mountain hut “ 621791)ne`r 320 or`αmobilc● 0609‐

25 (奮“ Orientation

the sunl■ lit.

Ankaran lies on the southenl side ofthe hilly Miljc Peninsula which is sha℃ d by Slovenia and ltaly.The`town'is essentially a stetch

Ad'jα

OfthC Юad(JadranSka CCSt→ leading from the co`st」 highway tO Italy and the scatercd

Piaces to Stay (glα ′ g(● :528323)extends over an ,,P,」″

arca of 12 hectares on thc eastern sidc ofthe Adria rcso■ and down to the sea.The pnce

Priinorska― Izola 197

pcr persOn rangcs frorn I)M10 to I)M14

sula and popular with local peoplc.It's open

depcnding on thc season,and guests get to

d」 lyfrom

use dl the facilities at the reso■

9 am 0 1l pm.

.Adria

camping is opcn from May to Septembct TheA′ ″″ reso■ compleX(● 528444;fax

Entertainlment ′

528321)contains a h」

the Adria resOrt including the Dお cο (g′ b nearthe entance,with its own huge car pak, “ open from 10 pnl and the 7hッ ι a restaurant

f‐

dozen different

types of accornrnodation,ranging fronl COt―

tagcs with balconies tO Self‐ contained ・ seaside bungalows for five PCOple. 「 he

cheapest place to stay■ the reso■

just

happcns to bc the rnost interesting. It's a

11lcrc are a couplc of popular night spots at

with music near the camp site“looking out over the Adrlatic.

two‐storey hotcl dead in the centrc called thc

Getting The熙 )&Away

Aι カ イα CO″ ッ

r.It Wa3 once a Bcncdictinc `″ nlonastcry and later becanle the surniner

Buses make the run from the ccntre of

residencc Of the aristocratic Madonuzza

Laza・ etbetween eight and ll times aday.Up

farnily from K(oper.11le price for a singlc is

to nine buses go to Iく oper.If you're heading

3050 to 4280 SIr for a rOOFn With breakfaSt

fOr'I｀ rieste

and shared shOwet and 4700to 6580 SIT for a dOuble; the differential depends on thc

change busesjust over the border Allin all, it's probably easierto catch adirect bus from

scason and the direction in which your room

Kope■

Ankaran to thc ltalian bordcr crossing at

faces. Singlcs/doubles with privatc bath

range frorn 3420/5260 SIT to 5250/8080 slr..The cOnventis Open ycar round;most of thc other accommodation tt the reso■ avallable frorn May to Septcnlber only.

is

lZOLA

ο ′ θ (23θ θ ・ a^′ ′Cο ′′●θ66 ・ ′OS′ε ・ ′ο ′ノ `63′

L01a,a sOmewha scruffy fishing port 7km sOuth― west

The nashy 25-rOOm B′ ∫ hoに1(● 526 050;faK 526 057),opposite`′the largc(and quite fainOuS)。 rthOpaCdiC hOSpital at

of Kopcr,is the poor relation amOng the histoncaltowns on the Slovenian

cOast,but it wasn't always that way.The Romans built a port calcd Haliaetum a

Jadranska cesta 86a,charges frorn I)M50 to

SimOn'S Bay(SimonOV ZaliV)SOuth― WeSt Of

I:)M701iper person,dcpencling on thc season. Suites start at I)M70 and Jurnp to I)M90 in July and August.All roorns have air condi― tioning,dircct― dial telephones and satellite

the()ld′ Ilown,and thcy say you can still scc

television. 'I・ here's

a fitness centre and a

night club here as well.

parts Ofthc orlginallanding when the dde is very low.

History l｀

Piaces to Eat Й οAど ,1夕 at ltegcntova ulica 2 has

1le vicissitudes of lzola in the Middle Agcs

are closely tied to thosc of K〈 )per and,to a lesser degree,Piran.Stnュ gglc anlong vari〈 )us

lllc Bis′

grOupS(and a brief periOd Of independenCC

light ineals and snacks,but the emphasis is

in the 13ぬ ccntuり )led to tte supremacy of Venice.At irst,Izola― at th■ time an isiand,

On liquid refreshinent. 1「 he J′s″ :π a super‐

market behind the post office is open Monday to Saturday frorn 8 anlto 7 p■

l and

which explansits name rぉ ο′ α means island in ltalian)一 日ounshed,palticularly in the

to 6 prll on Saturday.

radc Of Olives,fish and its celebrated winc,

Iave you ever catcn a pizza in church' The desanctined lnonasteっ 7 chapel next t。

which was distributed as far away as

I‐

the Adria Convent hotelis now thc P′

z々:`″ :α

働 ″ッι ′ “タ Theレ ″ αGο sr′ れα,about lkm west ofthe Adna tsort at Jadranska cesta 66,is one of the few indcpendent eaenes On the pcnin― .

(Ilernlany. 13ut a devastating plague in thc 16th century and the ascendancy of・ rricste atic as the premier po■ in thc northern Ad destЮ yed the town's economic b6e.During

the penod of the lllynan Provinces in the early 19th century,the French pulled down

マコ一 〓 ０ コ∽バ＞

frorn Ankaran you'1l have to

198 Priinorska― Izola the town walls and uscd thcnl to nll thc

on Saturday,is opposit Slavnik KolP〕 r誠

channel scpa・ ating thc isiand from the inan‐

CanktteV dreVOЮ d

l.

land.Many of thc inedieval churches and buildings wcrc also razcd.

Things to See&Do

After several ish cannenes were opened at lzola this century, the town began to

lzola isn't overly endowed with inlportant

industl■ alise.It remains the country's fore―

!Tlost ishing port,but its giory days seelTl a

ycars ago`贅 ,you walk through the nfm・ ow strccts whosc houses look ttlif they could topple over in the slightest of winds― or because of the noise of all the rebuilding nlllllo■

historical sights;Napc,leon's finesttook care ofllat.Butthcre are one ortwo things atleast

wo■ h a bneflook,such as thc 16th century Church of Saint Maurus and its detached bell tower on me hill above the town,the Municipal lPaiace on ｀ 1lollki trg and the

lenetian Gothic Manzoil House(1470),

along with sorne of the best seafood in

owned by a chronicler of lstia in the 16tll century,on Manzoli trg near the l″ ateH:ront

SIovenia.It's definitely worth a visit as long

(nOW under renOVatiOn).

culTently gc)ing on.Still,Izola has its chariTls

くＹＯ〓０議一 ∝Ｌ

as you don't inind a slight fishy sinell and

some very m cats undeめ 。t.

Izola's inost bcautiful building,though,is

the rococo Besenghi degillUghI Palace on the corner of(〕 regorё iё eva ulica and iBruna

ulica below the church.Built between 1775

Orientation Alrnost everything of a practical nature is centred around'rrg Rcpublikc.]Buses stop in iont ofthe SIavnik Koper tansport oface at

Calkaljcv dκ vored 2 on the southtasじ

and 1781, the nlansion has windows and

m

cdgc of the square.

To reach the 01d Town and its main square, lVieliki trg, which faces a circular

inner harbout w」 k north」 ong the wateト frOnt prOmenade Cdled SOnё nO nabrette.

balconies adorned with stuccos and wonder― ful wrought‐ iron gnlles painted light bluc. Insidc,a stairway decorated with illusionlst

paintings leads to a salon witll a cunous w。 。den bacony l・ unning just below the ceiling.1'1le palace is now a rnusic school and headquarters Ofthe loc」 Itaian sOciety.

There ι u.e beaches to the no■ h and south‐ east of the()ld'Ilown,but the best one is at Simon's Bay about l.5km to the south― west.

inforrnation The staff江

It has a grassy area for sunbathing and a

c tounst ofice(● 62901;fax 746101)at Sonё no nabκ 4e 4征 cぉ indif―

water slide.

lercnt and unintercsted as you're likely to

licences for 90()S11'a day and can organise

ind On the COaSt― a Ven/Sad Change frOin the Way things used to be run here.′ rheofFice iS Open daly frol■ 9 am to l pm and 4to 8

a boatう or under 1000 SI・

pin(to 10 pm in July and August).

Banka Koper has a branch at D“ vored l

Maa5 openfrom 8.30 am 11lnoon and iOm 3 to 5 prn on weckdays and till noon on Saturday.ABankaatPitonijevaulica l,the side streetnextto thebus Of■ ce,is open frorn

8 anlto noOn and 5 to 7 Dnl WeCkdaVS and

on S■ urday fro:n8to ll am.The Si"a eXChmge Of■ Ce at Sonё no nabre4c 16 is open weekdays from 7 am to 8 pnl and on

'I｀

he tourist office sclls daily fishing I｀

PCr person.

P:aces to Stay Calmlping There are twO canp sites within CaSy Cach of lzola.Jα グ″″滋ι(● 61202),a Small Sit On the Waterfront■

Polje cetta 8

some 1200m south‐ east Ofthe 01d Town,is open froln May to October.But it's right off the noisy coastal rOad and■ 1ls up quickly in Sunl:ne■ ・ rheper‐person charge is450 to 810

Saturday to l.30 pin. The pOst 01rice and telcphonecentre,。 pen

SIT,deI nding on the mOnth. 3`′ ν ι′ι″ 々ο′ α (● 605100),on a bluff 3km west of lzola wih wonderful views of the port and the Adriatic, is largcr than Jadranka,covering an′ rea of threc hect`rcs

from 7.30 am to 7 pm weekdaysand

and accornrnodating 700 happy canlpers

Ю l pm

P

１ ２ ３ ４ ５ ６ ７   ３ ９ ０﹁２”  ４ ５ ０ ７ ０ ９ ０ １ １ １１１１１１２

oOnn H。,d Manna Hotel Rbに ResLumnt la・

辮 酬 tⅧ :l認

鵠

morska― Izola 199

°

P12071a Ⅵね

￨…

躙 貯 man:dI P」 ace

Ю d 麓岬 饉薔 l旧 寵 Bu‐ u ° 鶏 1駁斎習 Post ori。 ● :∬

Bus c)mce a B010 skab 9° nCy

ス 磐松 めnahan Okopめ 口

inlca

RIvb● Hoto,

P12ola Palma BanIは Kopo「 Jadほ nka camp sne

Amb● (議 da Caudi C:ub

alinong the trees. It is open f,oin May to

for students a■cnding l:zola's catenng ald

Octoberandcosヽ from 600to l100 SIr.Thc

tourism school. Singles and doubles with re 3069 brcakfast and corninunal shower ι

holiday village surrounding the canlp has a large swiinnung pool.

SIT and 5766 SIT.Rooms with their own baぬ room Te 3627 SIT ald 5952 SIr.

The most cen"」

Private Rooins The tourist officc can arrangc private rooコ ns and apartlllents throughoutthe year,butthe biggestchoice is available in suinmc■ Singlc roorns are I:)ヽ 417 to l)M29,depending on the category and the season,while doubles are I)M26 to DIM49.Apa威 ments for two staF at DIM50

ald DM70.Breakfast(when avdlable)is

hotel in town is thc 45‐

65325;fax 62 012)江

Veliki trg ll.Singles start at I)ヽ

468 in the

low setson,nsing to I)M98 in July and August.Doubbs a・ eE)M188 and I)M122. If you don't nllnd being a bit out of thc

cente but still nea the wate.me D′ ′″ 63554;fax 63 411),Tomaを iё evaulica 10, Inay be for you.It's a pleasant enough place (●

usually I)M6 extra, and you inust pay a surchargc of 50% if your stay is less than mree days. Hoteis lz。 la's cheapest hOtcl is lle fOu← storey R′ ッj`“α (● 62925;fax 65 495) overlooking the ntal■ na at Prekomorskih Brigad ulica 7.The catch is thatits 174 beds a℃ only avallable from lnid‐ June to Augu飩 the rest Of me year it sewes as a dOnnitory

Юomル 4α ′:″ a(●

west ofTrg RcpuЫ ikc and htt its own pool.Butit's big, on a hill about aに lome■ e south―

with wc■ over l(Ю rooins,caters largely to tOur gioups and is nOt cheap.Prices stan at about 5500 SI「 pcr person.

P:aces to Eat

;

0た ″Pttν αれたα at Drevo“ dl Mala 6 hぉ f“ t bod in lcss‐ than‐ s」 ubrious

Jο π 力α″ α′

〓 ０ コ∽ス＞ ﹁卿一

Izola

200 Primorska― Around lzola SuFOundingS,but it'S prCty ChCap.P′ 々Z`ir′α

Intcrnational routes includc eight buscs a

day(WCCkdayS Only)tO TneSte in ltaly and

Pα ′ ″a nextto the Banka Kopcr at Drevored

αИあ I Mtta 3 has“ cent pizza but P'“ 」 `″ at Alietova ulica 3,witll garden seating out

two to Pula and Zagreb in Croatia.

the back,is a better bet.

parking is severely rcstrictcd in lzola and

,

Why not slkip a rncal and havc a blow― out

Like lnost of the towns on the coast, you'll havc to pay about 100 SIT'per hour

at one of the nsh rcstaurants,Izola has a

for the privilege.Thc full day rate is 1000

large sclection ofthem but not」 l are reason― ably priced or cvcn very good.Stick with the

S111.

l∝ alね vountcs:Pα

″ gajust up from the

nabrette 20 or Rル Jび tOu st Officc at SOnё no“ at ヽleliki trg 3, both of which are open to

about ll prn. But do bc careftil when you Order(especidly at Ribiё )and ask the exact

Getting Around F,om June to August a rninibus does a con‐

tinuous loop fronl the iBelvedere lzola holiday village west of thc Old Town to Simon's Bay,Izola Maina,Trg Republike

decagrainmc(abbreviatcd as aag On most

and the Jadranka canlp site and back. The Bcle Sk」 e trttel agcncy(● 65206)

menuS),yOu may end up Cating(and paying)

ncar thc bus Ofice at Cank"cvと cvored 2

a lot rnorc tllan you expcctcd.For a list of

rents bicyclcs for 80()S11'per day.Itis opcn

price of the fish. As scafood is sold by くＹ Ｏ〓０〓 一 ｒａ

ish dishes sce Food in thc iFacts lor the

weekdays from 9 am to 2 pm and from 4 to

Vlsitor chapten】 3e sureto have a glass ortwo ofMialvazija,mc Pale ye‖ ow iocal white that

7 pm.On Saturday it closes at noon.

is light and lcasonably dry. If you want to try lstian specialities like IStrSka riを 。ta(riSOttO With ShCll■ Sh

and

WhiC WinC)and Pぶ レ f琵 。1( Ck bean SOup With n00dleS),head fOr theお ′ だた α κJ`′ Pο ″ ′ ο″江 Sonё no nabκ tte 18,open daily fronl l l arn till inidnight.

Entertainlmlent lllc top rave ccntrel on the coast is lzola's A“ bα sα aα Gaッ ″″,which fcam“ s somc of the top l)Js and bands in the countiう the indust

′It's ・

in

al area south‐ west ofthc port on

AROUNDiZOLA Strunian For centuries, the people who lived at Stn,ngan,a pcninsula halfway bctwccn lzola and Piran,wcre engaged in inaking salt,and you'llsee the disused pans spread out before you as you descend along the main road from ′ thc lBelvcderc tourist cornplex. Iloday the area,prot(x,ted as a regional park, attracts ialgc numbcrs of waterfOwl. 11lough there has bccn■ luch developrncnt

額ound StrunJan Bay to thc south―

west,much

of the peninsula is rcmarkably unspOiled.It

lnduStrlSka CeSta and OpenS WedneSday (summer only),Friday and S■ urday"om

iS bOunded by a high cliff― (Cape lRonek (Rtt Ronek)一 atits northemmost point and

nlidnight to 7 anl.Such talent doesn't corne

thereそ u・ e plans to turn the trea intO a nature

cheap,though,and you'1l pay 1800 SIT to

reserve. Thc 16th century Church of St

get in,including thc irst dnnk.Ring■ '61 122 for more infonnation and wha's on.

Mary nearby is a place Of pilgninage On 15

Getting There&Away Buses leNeお r Koper and br Stmnjan, orott cvcっ ′ 20 minutes during the wcek and every 40 nunutes on Saturday Pira:l and Po

and Sunday.()ther destinations fronl lz。

la

August. The Srr“ りα″″ J′λR`″ ′ ′(Zirttilitte `α StrunJan;● 474100;fax 782 036)has all types of accomrnodatiOn On Offer,but the cheapest are the SaJ:″ ι´ a hOtel bunga10ws fortwo staning at 4αЮ SIT dunng the low scason and more than doubling in suinmct

(via Ko"r)include:Cclc(three buses a day),Cma na Koroζ kem(onc),巧 ubljana

Along with a beach,thc resort has an indoor

(up to 12),Manbor(thκ e),Murska Sobota (two)and Nova Gorica(two).

tennis courts and other spo■

p001 illed wim hcacd sea water as wcll as facilities.Much use is inade of thc salty inud found nea口「by

Primorska― Piran 201

・

for bcauty and therapeutic Purposcs. 「 hc

Orientation

″″ α″camp sitc(● 782076),which is り “all ycar,has space for 350}canlpcrs.It Open

Piran's01d Town is situtted on thc wcsCnl―

chargcs 75o t0 9oc)s11｀ pcr person,30C)SI「 per car and 300 SIr for a caravan.

is to the no■

s′

PiRAN

mOst point of Slovenian lstna.StrunJan Bay

h;Piran Bay and Po■

oroを ,Slo―

venia's largest beach resort,lie to the south. Ta“ inijcv trg,no■ h of Piran Harbour and

thc snlall nlarina, is the Centre of the()ld

′ Cο ′ ′6J3θ ο′′●θ66・ ′ο∫ α″′ε Pictucsquc Pimn(PiranO in ltalian),Si ng

・Ilown tOday butin the Middle Ages the focal

atthc tip ofa narrow peninsula,is evcryonc's favourite town on the SloVenian coast.It is a gen1 0fや lenctian Gothic architecl■ lre and full O■ narrow strccts,butit can be nlobbed atthe

mlSki trg)in Whtt iS the 01deSt pa11 0f the

.′ ο ・ ′ィ8α フ

height of suminei SO:ne people rnight ind

pOint was Trg l Mtta(also wtttcn PⅣ

o―

01d Town.lhe bus station is alongthe wateト frOnt,about 400m to the south of Thrtinlev trg at Dantcjeva ulica 6.Thec is no left― luggage officc here.

gctoutofhcOwn,though I'm notoneofthem.

inform載 ion Money Banka KOpcr at Taitinijcv trg 12

History

changcs travcllers chequcs and cash weck―

Piran has been settled since ancient tinles, and itis thoughtthatthe town's narne corncS 針Om the Greek word for ire r′ yり .In those days,fires were lit at Punta,the vcry dP Of the peninsula,to guide ships to thc port at

is an autornatic cxchangc nlachine that

days ioin 8.3o am till■ oon and 3 to 5 pm and on Saturday morning.(])utsidc the bank acccpts banknOtes fronl 13 countl■ cs.It'S in Operation 24 hours a day.

Aegida(now KOpcぅ .Thc Romans csmb― lishcd a se■ lcment here called Piranunl aftcr their victory ovcr the 11lyrians and Celts. ′ vcrc f()1lowcd by the carly I'hey, in turn, ヽ

Post & commlunications The new post je 5 is open Omcc at cankaricvO nあ 乏 weekdays fron1 7.30 anito 7 “ Pm andtili noon

slavs, the I〕 yzantines, the Franks and the

on Saturday.

Pattiarchs of Aquileia

venctian rulc began in the latc 13th ccntury and lasted in one fornl or anothcr lor

morc than 500 ycars. Unlikc Koper and lzola, whose citizens rosc up against tile Venetians tiine and time again,Piran threW its full suppo■ bchind Venice in its struggles

with Aquileia and Genoa.(The fact that

Trave:Agency Surprisingly,for atown that rcceivcs so rnany visitors, Piran docs not havc a tOunSt OffiCC(the OnC in P。 ■OЮ を

handles Piran as wcl).Hcad lorthc Maona travel agcncy(宙 746228)江 Cankarievo nabreぁ e7,whosc helpful and knOWiedge― able staff can organise pnvate rooms, an

4enice was Piran's biggcst custorllcr for the

cndless string of activities and boat cruises

saltit produced was certanly an inCentiVe.)

(sec the Cruiscs section).From May to octOber,itis open Monday to Saturday'om 9am to7 pm(9 pm in July and August)and

lヽ

Thc Venetian pe od was thc town's most fruitful,and many of hetown's most beau― tiful buildings and its fOnincatiOns were erected then.

EcOnOmic stagnation under Austrian and, particularly,Italian l■

On sunday frOm 9 anlto l pm and 5 to 7 prn. In wintet the Opening hOurs are 9 anlto 2 prn

every day,except Sunday.

llc fronl the carly 19th

century until after WWII ineant Piran was able to preseive― 江 a pricc to the af週 ucnce Ofits citizcns― its mcdieval characte■

1loday

itis one ofthebestpresetwed historicaltowns anywhere on the Adnatic and is cntirely pro― tected as a cultural monurnent.

Maritime Museum l｀

his inuseuin in a lovely 17th century palace

On the watefrOnt at cankttevo nあ is narlled in hOnour of Scrge」

rctte 3

Magera, a

Slovenian navalcomrnander whose ship WaS blown up off the Croatian coastinゝ

rヽ

VI.

つコ３≧０コ∽バ＞

the best thing to do atthat tiine of year is tO

202 Pnmorska― Piran The rnuseum's cxcellent exhibits,labelled

in Slovene and ltalian only, focus on the

′どj″ lenice above it.A wealthy rnerchant frornヽ “

three`Ss'that have been so impo■ ant to

fellin love with abeautiful10cal girl.:But she

Piran's development over■ e centunes:the

soon bccaine the butt ofthe local gossips.So to shutthenl up and keep hislover happy,the

sea,salling and s」 t‐ lnaking.The sdt pals at Seё ovlje,south‐ cast ofPo■ oroを ,get most of

its inouth and the inscrip● on Lassa′

rnerchant built her this little red Palace corn―

the attention downstairs.Thel℃ arc some

plete with a reminder for her loosc―

excellent old photographs showing salt

ncighbours:`Letthem talk.'

Ipped

workcrs going about thcir dutics in coolic‐

The classica1 19th century town hall and

Hkc straw hatsls wenぉ awind_powercd sdt

the court house with two 17th century doors ac to the west.The Aquariuml,less than 100nl along the hi電 ・ bour at■lomaZiё eva

puinp and little wooden weights in the forin

of circles and diarnonds that welK,used to weigh sdt under the Venetial Republic.

The antique modei ships upstairs tre

ulica 4,may be sm」 1,but there'saじ emen‐ dOuS V`riCり 。f SCalit paCked intO itS tWO

く Ｙ ∽∝ ０ 量 ︼ Ｅａ

very fine(especi」 ly the 17th cenmry g」 leon

dozen tanks.It's open froin 9 arn to 8 prn and

and 18th century colvette);other rooms Tc ■lled with old igureheads and weapons,

costs 300/200 Srr.

including solne very lethal‐ looking blunder―

cntrance to the square bear Latin inscriptions

busses..The folk palntings are vot:ves that wepe placcd by sallors on the alセ r Of the pilgrintage church at StrunJan 3or protection

pralsing Piran as well as thc town'sc。 江 Of al■ ls,and reliefs of St George,thc paron,to the le貴 ,and St Mark wiぬ the lion sylnbol, On the nght.

aganst shipwreck. The pdace,with its lovely moulded ccll― ings,parquet n00rs and inarblc staircase,is worth a visit in itsel■ The inuseum is open

cvery day,except Monday, from 9 arn till

The two 15th century flag poies at the

Church of St George&Around

｀ ■his Renalssance and baroque church,

noon and frorn 3 to 6 Pm frorn Aprilto June

Piran's nlost eyc― catching structure,stands On a ndge nOrth Of TlartinleV trg aboVC the

and in Septenlber and()ctOber ln July and

sea.

August the afternoon hours a薫

)frorn 4 to 7

pm.Thc admission ch"gc is 300/2(Ю SITfor adultsノchildrcn.

TartinileV Trg The statuc of the nattily d“

・11()the

east runs a 200■ l stretch Ofthc 15th

century town wa‖ s.chmb them for superb VicWs of Piran and the Adnatic.The walls once ran from the sea all the way to the harbour and seven crcnellated towers remain

,ssed gentleman

in the centre of this Oval‐ shaped, Inarble_

paved square,which was thc inner harbour until a landfllin 1864,κ p“ sentsloca cOm‐

PCtty much intact.

The ChurCh Was founded in 1344 and was rebuiltin ba・ Oque sり le in 1637.It's wonder‐

pOser and violinist Giuseppe Tartini

fully decorated with paintings,a magninccnt altar and a statue of St George slaying the

(1692‐ 1770).′ 1lo tllc east and opposite the

dragon,with a woinan cunOusly holding the

ChurCh Of St Peter(1818),・

rnonster by a lead.

Ilartini's binh―

place atlヽ lo 7 contains the Tlartini Memoria:

R00,71 0n the lSt f100r Open WeCkdayS, cxcept Monday,frOnl lo ain till n00n and 5 to 7 pin ald atthe weekcnd in thc morning only.

The red Venetian Houl艶 )(BeneSke Hiζ a),

a10Velyヽlenetian Gothic structure from the 15山 cenmry with tracery windOws and a balcony is at No 4.There is a stOry attached to the stonc relicfOfthe lion with a ribbon in

■le fЮ e― Standing be‖ tower(1609)was mOdellCd On thC Canlpanile of San Marco in ｀ lienice and can be climbed daily for excel― lent VieWS Ofthe tOwn and harboun Nextto

it,the octagond 17th ccntuV Baptisbry COntainS altarS,paintings and a Roman sar― COphagus from thc 2nd century later used as a baptism」 font. ()n your way up to the church fronl Tar― tinleV t瑶 ,htte a quick look inside Our

﹁コ一 〓 ０コ∽ス＞

５■あ 彗● ８ Ｅ ス︶ Ｘ︶ ●■〓 ・ 卜 ６ ロト８ ８ 〓 ８ ， ｏＯ■０ ちｏＬ 摯Ｒ Ｆ 一 賀︶ 口 ｔ ●〓

::: 5目

●● ヽ８ ｅ ２ ヽ

卜●

０も工 一 Ｃ■●卜 ●ＯＬ８３一 ０ ●● 一 雨 うち工 雪口一 Ｌ“ ●●●●〓ちｏョ０ ﹁ ｏ “﹄ｂ ︵ ｐＰ螢困︾ ′コＬ ， ，

， ●薔 ど ｃ■ 重 ‘ ３ １５ ■ ■ 一日 一 ■Ｊ Ｒ Ｑ‘二 一 ３●Ｅョ“場ＯＥ ●員も 一卜“ 一 〓●ョ■８ ・Ｃ ，Ｃ雷Ｅ ＥＥ２一 ト ‘ 屁 “３ ■ １ 〓 ● 買ｙ﹁¨ ● いくｕＯ卜０¨

Ｅ “

む Ｅ口〓 ●０ ３ Ｐ，●Ｊ■ ５● ， ， 饉 攣自０

Ｂ 〓 ｏあ あ お ｆ ョ ０ ＥＯお０

[F

R388

‐ ・・・ 。9=騨 9■ 99ヽ 998馬 ミヽRRヽ

む ｃ３ ≦

8

ＥコＲ３〓 ， ｃ〓ａ〓 ，〓 彗 〓 Ｅ ａ Ｏ望 里 ５ ● ﹂ 彙輌こ ０コＬＯ一 〇 ●●コ０工 ｔ ００ ，５ 一 〓 Ｌあ ヽ ｆ ５ む０ヽＦＯ〓 “理Ｐａ﹄ Ｌメロち 〓Ｐ ０ ，コ０ ５ ３″ Ｏ ｏ ９あ ち かつｑ〓 ，〓 ■，， ３３Ｉ Ｅ Ｆ 一﹂ ８ ０Ｎ ●Ｅ ﹁■９に コ ｔｅ●ト ， 一 ﹁工 ●蓼ｏト ●〓Ａ ︶●官選 ０ ﹂ Ｅ 〓８ む●ち■ ８

あ、 _ も8

Ｒ 質き Ｌ

3

P"an 203 lnorska― P

204 Pnmorska― Piran Lady ofthe lSnows Church(Sveta Ma

ja

you can see StrunJan and on a really clearday

Sneを na). It contains a wonderful 15th

thc Miramale Castle in Tneste and even

ccntury painting of the(〕 rtlcillxion on thc

(:〕

arch before thc presbytcry. '「

hc largc

rado in ltaly.Kayaks and canocs arc avail―

ablc by thc hour on the l)each.

cornplex opposite is the fonmer Franciscan

monastery with a、 vonderful cloister and the Church of St Francis,built originally in the

early 14th century but enlarged and●

eno―

vated over tllc ccnturics. Inside is a giant clanl shell for donations.

lf you would likc a tour ofIPiran Harbour ″α(mobile● 041(800 SIT),boardthe Mα ″」

676359)at the sm」 l pier on Cmkttcvo nあ rcttcjustsouぬ ofthc Maritime Muscum. It sails daily in surnrncr

■ 9 1 Maia This was the centre of Piran untilthe Middlc

aze Agcs and the surrounding strccts arc a l■ of pastel― coloured `ovcrhanging' houses, くＹＯに０ 議 一 匡Ｌ

vaulted passages and arcaded courtyards.

Thc square is surroundcd by intcrcsting baoque buildingsincluding thc fonncrtown pharmacy on the nonh side(nOW a reStau‐ 鯰nt).In the Centre Of he Square iS a large

Maona and several other travel agcncics in lPiran and lPortoroZ can book you on any nurnber of longer cruises― fronl a loop tllat

takesin thetowns along thecoastto day-long Vicnicc, 'Tricstc or Brioni excursi()ns to ｀ N江 lond Park in Croaia.

From about l■e March to October,the large catam`ran iイ εο″′glides between “ Piran on Thursday; Trieste(35 minutes)and lα

cistern that was builtin the late 18th century

the excursion lasts fronl 12.30 to 8 prn and

to store fresh water; raln 'water fronl the sul口 ounding roofs■ owed into itthrough the

fish borne by the stone cherubs in each corner

lf yOu'rc gOing tO Tatinijcv trg,walk along(3)bzidna ulica,one of Piran's oldest strects.which passes under the 15th centurv

costs 4000 SI■ ' return。 (Dn Wiednesday, Friday and Sunday,it goes down thc lstnan coast in Croatia as far as thc Bnoni lslands

and the naional park thcc(21%hours;96(Ю SIT return inCluding lunCh),With a StOp at

RovinJ.The boat leaves at 9.40 ain and

Doiph:n Cate(Dol■ nova Vrata).2idovski trg,the centte of Jewish life in Piran in the Middle Ages,is a couple of hundred inetres to the no■ :h― west.

retumsJust aftr 6 pm.On Wednesday, ra)na alSO OrganiSCS a`iShing piCniC'tnp(1l ain to 4.30 pm;45∞ SIT)as wellぉ a`roma c night cruise'(9 to ll.30 pm;2(XЮ

SIT).

TheDθ 4′ ″(mobilc● 0609-628491)boa sails from Piran to thc inarina at Po■ 10rOを via

Swimming Piran has several `bcaches'一 rOcky l霞 ℃as

a10ng P“ SemOVO nabrette― Where yOu might dae to get yOur tet wet They gd a little better after Punta,■ e`pOint'wim

Cruises

a

lighthouse and an。 ld church,but I'd keep

walking eastwardお r just under lkm to Fiesa. Wiatch your step, howcver, as you walk undcrthc blui:s,especially at night;the p■ h can bc slippery.Thc“ arc a number of

the Bernadin tOuriSt COmplCX(OnC hOur; 1000 to 1200 SIT)bctween six and ll timcs aday frornApnitoく )ctober ln July and August the l∞ p aso takes in Fiesa and Stru」 an. Another boat ogienng a si:nilar excursiOn is the Pι ′」 ″α(mobile●

0609-613628).

Fbr excursions to Menice,sce lBoating& Cruiscs under Activitics in the Po貢 oroを section.

nudist swimming areas between Piran and Fiesa and Fiesa and Stningan. The beach at Fiesa is one of the cleancst and pretticst on the SIovenian cOast,cssen― tially becausc boating is very rcstncted hcr). It is ten■

bly s■lall though and is positively

jammed with bahersin summer FЮ m he“

Speciai Events SOrne cvcnts of the lPiran Musical Eve― ningsノ Pnrnorska Sunllner Festival in July and the irst half of August take placc On Friday in the vau■ ed cloistcr rtr老 ″ J力 ο ′″″り

of thc lorrner Franciscan■ 10nastery.

PrilnOrska― Piran 205

Piaces to Stay J`z′ ´ οFた sα (●

his sca ncar the Jezero Fiesa carnp site.「 pleasant fOur― storcy hotel charges 3750/ I｀

Camping The closest camp site is Cα

″g ′ π′」

73150)江 Ficsa,4km by

Юad from Piran(butless man lkm if yOu

600()SIT for singles/doublcs in the low

follow the coastal trail east of the Church of

season,rising to 7 125/11,400 SIrin July and August.F.ronl May to Septernber you'II pay

St George).It's in a quiet v」 ley by two srnall, protected POnds and close to the

400 SIT extra for a roonl with a balCony facing thc sca,but it's well worth it.The

bcach,but it gets very crowded in surninet

hc)tel's restaurant is cxcellent.

rI｀

1lcrc's a small superrnarket herc open daily

in summer iom 7 am to 7 pm.The camp is

P:aces to Eat

open from June to Septcinben

αcast of thc Have a pizza at P“ ″rク or F′ ο″ je Punta lighthousc along PrcSemovo nめ にこ

Private Rooms The tounst Office in Portoroを (■

'747015)and the Maona travel agency

and enJoy the unintelTupted views ofthe sea. Therc are also scveral pubs in the area.

The S′ √βα″restaurant at Grudnova ulica

throughoutthe ycar,butthc l)iggest choice is

l,a sinall street north‐ east ofthe bus station,

availablc in surniner. Single roorns are I:)M17 to I:)M29,dcpending on the catcgory

is a good placc for a ineal or drink.It has a `phOtO_」 bum mcnu'with somc 60 dishcs

and the seasOn,while dOubles are I)M26 to DIM50.Apartments fortwO Stalt at DM44 in

and lots of pizzas;the staff are inultilingual. It's opcn daly貴 。1.lo am t。 1l pin.

the low season and〕 DM55 in July and August.Ylou usually have to pay a surchargc of 50%if your stay is less than three days.

Pension ()ne of the chcapcst and vcry ccntral placcs to stay in Piran is the hostcl‐

guesthousc('75499;fax like lを ′

746 911)

at Grcgorё iё eva ulica 38 on the corner of ヽ石 cgova ulica.(Dpcn froin late April to ()ctobet it has abouttwo dozen rooins with

shared showcr for between 260C)and 2900

sln Hoteis Piran has only two central hoteis.The cheaper ofthetwo,the P,´ α″('746110;fax

′ ι οis a pleasant little restau― Gο s″ ι J″ αiイ α rant with an outside terace up the steps from

st Petr's ChuК h a KaJuhova ulica 6.It spccialises in ish dishcs an(l is open daily, cxccptヽ Vicdncsday,until ll pnl. Piran has a hcap of seafood lK)staurants along P“ gcmoVO nあ reを jebutmOSt(inClud― ing Pα

ν ι ′and

。 ν ′ less sO rl″ j14を ′ ,are fairly

priccy;expect to pay about 5(X)()SIT for a nks.Instead,try the meal for two,with d 10calね vou esD`′ ″P」 ″れneaTrg l Mtta at Kosovclova ulicaZl,orthe nlore eXDenSiVe AIι ′ r“ ′ t at Zupanё iё cva ulica 7 bchind thc

Maona travel agency.

746101)at Stjenkova ulica l,has about 77

1｀ VO deCentCaf6StO CheCk are the(】 α ′ ι′ α ca″ 2 0ppOSite me venetian House On Tar=

rOOrns,rnany Ofthenl facing the sca.Singies and doubles with brcakfast and shower start

`″ Caf6 in the Tartini HOuSC(enter frOm

1:′

tinjev trg and me clubbyル た′ ″

。Italian

a DM40 and DM60inthclowcstscason but jump to a minimum DM65 and DM100 in

KaJuhova ulica 12).The lttter is open

July and August.

6 to 9 prn.

The 45-room G」 ∫ι ′′ι7b″ rt″ ′hotel (奮

“ Taltinijev trg 15 746221:ね x746324)at

'I｀

uesday to Sunday from 9 anl till noon and

・ here's an outdoor″ α4た I・

squarc bchind the town hall. `r in the sinall

has singles and doubles with views in the

high season for II)M95 and I)M150, but

Entertainlment

thcy'rc only half thatin the lowest season.

Piran is not exactly raging but the panllphlet

Though not in Piran itSe11 0ne Of the nicest places to stay in the area―

if notin all

of SIovenia― is thc Fι ′ sa(口 '746897;fax 746896),a22-roorrl hotel ovcrlooking the

produccd l)y the :Erazcnl student travel agcncy in LJubljana a couple of yetts back

、 vasn'tentirely fair when it saidthat`nothing really exciting here has happened since the

●コ一 ヨ０コ∽バ＞

can arrange private roorns and apartments

206 Prllnorska― Portoroz

Venetian Republic'.The C&ν bな 江 Ulica IX l(OrpuSa9(Open tO n口 dnight)iS apOpular meeting placc.c′ らrr′ PaPな `,Prescmov。 nab“ 荀e2near the “ Piran hotel,is a night― club‐ curn‐ disco

that attracts,well,working

giris.It's opcn atthe wcckend to 4 anl.

Ge

ng There&Awaソ

Bus Buscs hcad for iPortorott and for Strungan,Izola and Koper about every 20 lTlinutes in season and evelγ

40 rmmutcs at

the weekend.C)ther destinations that can be K)ached fr()m Piran include:Beli KlriZ nea口「 Fiesa(up to seven a day),Ceje(■ ve),こ

ma

くＹＯ饉０〓 一 ∝Ｌ

na KoЮ ζ kem(one),LJubljana via PostoJna (six o 10 a day),M″ ibor(th“ e),Murska

Sobota(two),Nova Gorica(two)and Seё OVte Via Seё a(10).

About six buses go to'r

este in ltaly on

shops, discos, beaches with turnstiles, parked cl霞・ s and tOurists, and it is nOt tO

cvcryone's liking. A senior Slovenian tOuriSm OffiCial CaliS it`POrtObCtOn'(POrt Of

Cement)While anOther SayS he haSn't beCn therC fOr OVer“ ree dCCadeS,pretmng(like the VaSt mttOrity Of SIOVeneS)tO hOliday in Croalan lst a or along the D」 matian coast. But POrtOrOZ(POrtOrOSe in ltdian)iSn't all bad.The sandy beaches areithe largest on the coast and reladvcly clean,thelに ■s a plel委 ,ant

sPa where you can take the waters or cover yourselfin curative rnud,and the list ofothcr activities gocs on and(on.If you take it for wh■ it is and lct your halr down,Po■ oroを can bc a fun place to watch Slovcnes,Ital―

ians,Austnans,Gcrmans and others tt play and in vanous st■ es ofundress.You mayjust wmt bjoin inぬ e mn.

weckdays,and there's a dally depanure fOr

me cЮ atim capid Ofzareb.One buSa day

Hidory

heads south for ClЮ atian lstna,sЮ pping at

PortoroZ may look as if it was borll ycstcr―

and

day,but ha's nOtthe casc.ThOugh mOst Of

the coastal towns of IJmag,POreё Rovini.

CarTrafEc is severely restncted in Piran and SpaCeS are at an absolute prenllum.All cars must pay a stiffl)arking fec if they intend to

Stay in the tOWn fornlore than an hout Leave your car behind Orin the inunicipallot sOuth Of the bus sI口 ttion which charges 60'S11｀

per

the developmcnt along the inain dragく )bala (Bcach Road)d■ es from thc latc 1960s and 1970s,the settlemcnt was first mentioned in

the 13th century and itt sheltered bay was iercely contcstcd overthe next 200 ycl籠 .s.In 1689,Po■ orOを Bay was the centre of a pan― Istrian sailingcornpetition in which over 100 galleons participated.

Getting Around

But Portoroを didn't achieve re」 fane until the late 19th century when Austro― IIungarian officers camc here tO be ti℃ ated

hour up to 60()S11｀

lor the full day.

Bus Minibuses run by a colllPany called I&I

With thc inud collected frorn the salt pans at

go from Piran tO Po■oroZ and as far as the

Seё ovlje(see

Camp sites at Lucija continuOusly year

Spead quiCkly and thc Pdace Hotel(1912)

Around PortorOZ). VVord

round.In surnrner therc is alsO service to thc

was established.This once luxurious pile is

bcach and camp s“ 江 Fiesa.

just opposit the m

・riaxilFor a local taxi in lPiran,call,73555.

n beach on Obala and

culTently under renovatiOn.

Orientation

PORTOROZ

POnOrOZ Skirts a sandy bay about 5k■ l south―

p 298θ o α′ a cο ピ θ●θ66・ ′οsrcο′′6J2θ ・ ′ο “ Evcry count,With a sca coast has got to

haVe a hOn町 ■Onk bCκ h κSO■ ― a

Black―

p001, a lBondi or an Atlantic Clity ― and Po■ oroを is S10venia's very own.The`POrt of Roscs'is essentially a solid strip of high´

rlsc hotels,rcstaurants,bars,travcl agencies,

cast of I》 iran.・ 11le

rnain development 10oks Onto the bay frOm Ob」 a,butthet aκ sateト

lite resorts and hotel complexes tO the north― wcst

at Bemadin and south near the

Po■ oЮ tt Manna at Lucija. ■'he bus statiOn is opposite thc main l)each on Postttdiさ ka pot,while Po■ orott alrport

PHmorska― Pol"oroz 207

●コ一 〓 ０ ■０天＞

官 ■Ｓ一“” ｇｏ一 えこ

モ 壺出 〓 Ｌ ＯＥＩ ｔ あ ら ■Ｊ 一 ， ５ 籠‘ ９〓 凛Ｏ Ｎ２ ８ ● ５ 電 ０霧 Ｏ Ｅ ョ８ コ ２６ Ｆ遍 ，ａ 〓 む ０３ 一 ０こ ｏ２巴Ｆ 一２を８¨ く一 む 嗜Ｒ ︶ く ３２巴卜 ●■く む ５ ｏ≦ ９ ロ ト ●Ｒ 諧〓 “ コ Ｓ出 ●ＣＬＯ●ヨ∽ ０３０● ｍＹＯ ″ｏ■﹄ Ｅ〓 ｇ∽ η 轟 ８ ●５ ・ ３■ ６ト ３８ ５ ● ３ ﹂口 ３︼ ｎ 望 ■●Ｌ

“ ０〓ｅ ●８ 〓 コ彎コ ０” ■薔０● Ｎ” ３ ５ ９ ０ 日 暑２ ● 一 む ｃ３ く ５２●卜 ０贅〓ｂ・ Ｙ Ｏ ８ ＣＯ 一 Ｒ︶ ● ０，

り〓⊇一 コ● 一 ００﹁Ｌ ２０こ︵

３鯛，誦疑 駐

RNRヽ R3S

ヽ

=,,9R馬

薔

，

８ ０︶８ ■●Ｌ ＥＯ卜 ∞ ︵ ８ ０Ｈ〓口 ●３ 遍， φ コ０ ● ｏＯヨ● ●一 ●●２く ヽ ５ ｏ 超 ３ Ｆ Ｅ●Ｅ ８ 一 Ｅ四〓い０

“卜 一 〓Ｅョ８８ こ ヒ●ヽ 〇 ， ＯＣ 一 ”ョ彗３Ｓり ｔ０ ０Ｎ Ｃ雷 日さ３・“ ３銹Ｊ一０一 “ ｔ●５“ 薇３に お﹄ ●ココ ０” ，■０¨ 卜“四０ Ｘ︶ こヨ●

２ ０ 日 ０ ユヨ コ ８ Ｅ り， Ｅ Ｏ 工理 コ ８ ， 占■ 百 コ ご Ｒ ３● ２●■ ｏＯ●■● つ喧ＥＯ ト 一 ﹂ ６・ ︼ ｇｔ●●“ ， ﹂ ﹁ ６ちｏ一 ｏも工 理●●ヽ ６あ ● ０〓 ２２“ ０ ３８工 督一 ０もエ モＯＬ Ｏ ０ 一 ”“Ｆ０ ０卜●四０ ，“Ｊ●

208 Pnmorska― Po■ oroを 79001)is about 7km Ю he south― east ∝征 s∝ 。vje On■ e crOman“ der.It is One (●

enlphasis is on the SIovenian shipping company spl。

of threc international aiqpolts in Slovenia,

6na r)1。 vna Piran and its con_ tribution to the developmcnt of thc coast.It

but only sinali chartered alcraft iand there.

contains lots of ship nlodels and naval plara‐

information

phernalia― a collection only for the devOted sea dog.It's open Aprilto June and in ScP―

￢ourist O“ ice The tourist officc('747

tenlber and Octobcr cvery day, except

015;fax 747 013)is at Obala 16,a shon

MIonday,from 9 am till noon and■

distancc wcst of thc bus station. It's opcn

6 plm.In July and Augustthe aftcrnoon hours

iom 8 ain to 10 pm」

Te■ om 4 b7pm.The admission ch"gc is

onday to Samrday in

om 3to

surnrner but,like■ lost ofthe travel agencies,

30C)/200 SIT for adult〔 ychildren.

in winter it's closed by l pm and at the

Forma Viva atop the Seё a(Sezza in ltalian)PeninSula near the lSt CategOry

weckend.

Lucija camp site is an outdoor sculptuκ くＹ Ｏ匡０ 目 一 〓Ｌ

Money Banka KopeL below the Slovenija

garden with over 100 works of art carved in

hotcl at()bala 33,is()I》 en frorn 8.30 till noon

and 3 1o 5 pm on weckdays and on Saturday

stonc.ThisisjustoneofseveralinSiovenia. They were intem江 lonal exhibitions whcrc

nlorning. It has an autornatic exchange

sculptors worked with local matcnalsi stone

rnachine outside which accepts the bank‐ notes of 17 countries. ・rhere are private

at Portoroを ,wood at Kostanjevica in Dolc■ ska,iron tt Ravne in KoroSka and― God help us― concretcin Maribo■・ his one,

exchange offices evcrywhcrc. F.eniks, a b“

′α グ

lι

c力 α ″g′

next to the tourist ofice,

“ “ gives a good ratc and does not charge corn― mission.Best of dl,it's oIЮ n from 9 am ill lnidnight seven days a week in season.The SKB Banka at Obala 53 has a Cirrus― linked

ATM.

「

which is vaguely renliniscent of a cenletery, dates fronl 1961 and rnany ofthc sculptures ′ arc in sad shapc. rlo bc honcst, the rcal reasons forcoming arc the fanttsic views of

POnOrOを and Piran bays and,if yOu walk a shOn disttnce tO he sOuth,the salt pans at Seё oVle.'The peninSula iS an CXCellent plaCe

Post a cO:m‖ nunications Thc POst Officc is

for a picnic.

located at K Stari cesta l opposite the Palace

hotel building.Itis open weckdays fron17.30 am to 7 pm and on Saturday till noon.

Activnles

Travel Agencies Almost a1l of the big

Swimming The beachcs at Portoro乞 ,includ‐ ingthc main onc accommodating some 6∝ Ю f ed and bronzed bodies,arc`inanaged',so

Slovenian travel agencies are represented

you'1l have to pay 290 SIT(20()SIT after l

here, including Kompas(● 747032)at

pm)tO uSe them.They haVe Wtter SlideS,

Obala 41 below the post orice(open wcek― days"om 9am 0 1pm and3 Ю 7pm and

outside showers,beach chairs and urnbrellas

Samrday moming),and Atlぉ (● 732(4)a Ob」 a55just south ofmc bus stttion,which

7 prn in season.()n a hot surnFner'S day thCy

is the local representative for Anlcrican Express.Maona(● 746423)is next door at

be∝ h oppositc the Metropol hotel(350/250

Obda 53 and Rosetour(● 667 5291)is

for rent(400 SIT)and"e open from 7 aln to

can be rcal zoos. The pnvately rnanagcd SIT fOr adultS/ChildrCn)iS Sm」 lCr but niCen The large outdoor Metropol swimn■ ing

opposite thc Maritilne Museurn Collcction at C)bala 16a.

pooi next to thc beach is Open in summer

Things to See The Maritime Museulm Coi:ection in the

bOWling(10 am Ю midnight daily).

ヽア 11la San Marco,C)bala 58,is a branch ofthc

Diving The Adriana I)ivc Club(mObile

nluseunl in Piran. '「 his tinle, though, the

l口

(5(Ю/300 SIT admission).In the sports ield

attachcd thcrc's minigolf,tennis couns and

'0609-639306),in the little round building

Primorska― Portoroを 209

ncar the beach and oppositc the Riviera hotel, rcnts scuba cquiprnent and gives

spa The.1lerinc Palace spa('747 041),

iessons;you can■ lakc arrangements with the diving instructor daily between 9 and 10 aln

ofFice,is fanlous for thalassotherapy,treat‐ rnent using sea water and by‐ products like

daily in season.For aboutiD)M55 you gctthe entire kit_wetsuit,mask,nippers,tank and regulator― and a single divc for absolute

SCa― Water

bcginnettis DiM70.Remember,though,th江

(2800 SIT), massagc(3500 SIT for 45

you're diving forthe sport hel℃

located on K Stari ccsta ncxt to the post

;there ain'ta

mud frOm the salt ias.The spa offers warm b

bathS(900 SIT PCr half― hOuO, ne baths(22∞ Sr),Seё ovUc mud bams

minuteS)and a hOSt Of Other therapieS and beauty treatinents.Itis open Monday to Sat―

whole lotin those waters.

urdayfrom 7 am m 7 pm.The p」 江ialindoor swirnming pool here is open dallシ exccPt

Boating&Cruises The Atlas travel agency

MOnday泄 om 7am 0 9pm.

rcnts out boats and you can also hire thein on

Panoramic FlighL Sighも ∝ing by ulta― light

for rent(40(X)S11｀

plane is available atthe Portoro乏

a day).

On Fnday,Saturday and Sunday between lat Mach and Octobcrthe P′

げ 降″

J″

,

“ scating “ a40m Australian―made ca曖 maan 330 passengers,sails from Portoroを to Venice(214 hours;DIM90 κturn).■ le boat lcavcs POnOrOを

froin thc pier below thc

Liubljana cstaurmt,Ob」 a14,at 8 am and leNes veniceお r■ e retum joumey at 5.30 pm. ]For inforrnation in I)ortoroを

contact

Kompas.′ rhe Kompas office in Venice (● 041‐ 5286545)is■ San Maco 1497.The P′ j″ C`q′ 砕 ″j“ alSO SalS tO POκ ё ttd Rovinjin CЮ ma

brめ outthe samc farc on other dり s,but verify this md thc schedulc

猜rport near

S∝ ovbefbmAp ltoSeptem“ r )m82回 Ю 8prnandbeヽ veen 3 and5 prntherestofLeyear. Flights over POrtoroを and Piran orthe whole coぉ t(15 minuts)cost DiM45(minimum

twO pぉsengers).There tte dso 45-minute nights taking in ,laces fl.thcr afield like

Lipica and mc SkocJm Cttes(DM108)and the Julian Alps and Triglav(DM210).

Speciai Events Ponoroを Night in July and lsttian Night in early August― evenings of celebra on and ircworks― rec」 l the saling colnF'ition held in the bay hcrc in the 17th century.

VeniCe iVe timeS a WeCk(TueSday tO Satur‐

Many spccial events in sunllner arc held in tlle large open― air theatre at the I》 ortoroZ um at Aivditorij(● 747 230),an audito Senё na pot 12 ablock behindthe bus stadon. One very unusual event held in IPottoroを

day)bctwcen late Mり md September from

is the Marincrs'Baptisin of ncW recmits to

with any Kompas office bcfoκ making plans.

Another boat nlaking return trips to

PortoroЙ is the Sα ″″

E′

ac■ amaran

0“

`0″ ;● 041‐ 520 8966 in VeniCC).The ttip takeS Only l1/,hours and (宙 73 583 in Pottoroを

costs I)M95 to DMl10 retunl.(Э n othcr days αE′ ′ο″ο a sails down the coast to the Sa″ ′ “ v征 10us tOwns in Croatia,including Rovini, umag,Po“ こ Pula and LoSinj. ο″the water Ifyou'd like to sec wh江 's bι ′

rathcr than on or above it,board the Syι ‐ κ (moblle● 0609‐ 636371)froln the α9″ α′

the naval school held in early Septinbe■

It

involves a lot of pageantry.

Piaces to Stay

camping The L′ ιヴa camp site(,771027) has two locations.The 2nd category site is south― east of the marina at the end of Ccsta

S01inariev lcss than 2km■ om the bus station.1'1lc lst category sitc,600nl to the

west,is On the waer.BOth camps are opcn

Bernadin tourist colmplex daly at 10 aln or

fronl May to September and get very

at 2,4,6 or 9 pnl dally in scason.The tnp cOsts between 1800 Srr(25001 SIT for the

crowdcd in sunllnen The chaurge per person ranges frorn l)M12 tol[)M15,depending on

night CruiSe).

the site and the month.

〓 ０”∽バ＞ ●コ一

the grassy beach`rea directly wcst of thc canoes' Mctropol hoに 1.Rosetour has`safa

210 Primorska― Po■ oroを Private Ro● Ins The tounst office,Atlas and llornpas all havc privatc roorns and apart―

The Gr″ ′κstaurant,oftcn with some■ ing large being roasted on a spit near thc

ments.You can dso book them through

CntranCe,faces thc main beach at()bala 20.

Rosetour as wcllぉ at Globtour(● 73356) below the SIovenija hotel■ Obala 33.Gen‐ crally single roorns range frorn iE,M19 to

Main courscs are 800 to 1400 SI'r, and there's a setlllenu fOr lloo sI「

.'rhe」 Klα ぶ ′

rcstaurant sits under an enOrnlous inarquce`ι

E)M30,depending on the category and thc

in the warmer inonths almOst OppOsite the

scason whilc doubles are lDヽ 432 to I)M50.

I)M50 andI)M70.Some ofthc roorns aFe up

tourist office on Obala.The Cο JJ′ ″αRル だ in Seё a(house No 143)south of the lFol■ na ヽriva sculpture park has a wOndcrful setung

on the hillside,quite a walk frOm the beach.

and good ish dishes.It is open daily frOrn

Geting a room forless man hree nights(う。r

noon to ll pm but closes in February.

Apamments br two goわ r a minimum of

which you mustpay a 50%supplement)or a

くＶ∽∝０菫 一 匡Ｌ

single any time is difficult, and in winter rnany Owners dOn't wantto rent at all due to the low off― selson raに s in force. Hc)teis IPo■ oroを counts some 20 hotels,not

including the`olde world'P」 a)c underlに n。 _

vation at Ob」 a45,the Art Nbuveau hotel th■ put Po■ oroを On the map.HOtels in Portoroを can be very expensive dunng the

warmer months.Many close for ttc winter in C)ctober or Nbvember and do not rcopen until April or even May.

The cheapest hotels in P。 ■OrOを arc the centralR」 ッ セra(●

747051;fax 747 239)and

ον ″α (● /faX Same),Side by SidC but `“ shtring the same address at Obala33,andthe И々 Pα zた (奮 4750000;fax 76 481)in the

The 」 D′g“οs“

lρ

πα′ たιr is a few steps

alway frOnl the bus `″ station.Itis open week_ days fron1 7 alll to 8 p■ 1,Saturday to 7 pm

and Sunday from 8 arn to ll anl. Entertainlmlent

TheAκ α″′ α,nearthe

old church tOwerin the

ccntre oftheBernadin tounstcomplcx no■ h_ WeSt Of the Centre,is a popul`r disco.For moκ `matu“ 'entrtainment,■ eκ 's」 sO the J&β C′ ンb姥 ″″sbelow theR ieraHotland the rレ ο″Cル ら江 me Grand Hoに l Palace. The Pο ″ο′ oそ GαsЙ ο (奮 746934)at the

Me=opol hoじ 1,pOpular wi

I松 lian day‐

trippcrs,is open daly from 5 pm.

S′

Ge

ng There&Away

the Slovenija,with 352 and 272 bedsrespec‐

Bus Buses leave POrtOrOЙ station for Piran, StrunJan and lzola about evcry 20 rninutes

tively,charge fron1 4760 to 7565 SIT for

Onヽ Veckdays in scason and every 40 rninutes

Bcrnadin tounst complex.The Riviera and

singles,depending On the season and cate‐

gory, and from 6800 1o ll,390 SIT for doubles..The 386-bcd Vllc Park― that's thc

On Saturday and Sunday. C)therdcstinations fronl Portoroを

and their

dany f“ qucncics include:celje(five),cma

plural of`villa'in SIovene nOt a cOrnrnent on

na Korogkem(onc),Ljubbana via POsqna

the establishrnent's quality―

(12),Ma bor(th“ e),Murska SObOta(twO), Nova Corica(tw。 )and Seё ovlje via Seё a

has singles for

520C)to 80001 SIr and doubles for 74(X)to

ll,400 SIT.Thc Riviera is closed from January to March and thc Vile Park frorn mid‐ Octobcr

to

d‐

Apnl.The SIOvenla

(10). InternatiOnal deStinations include POCё (threC),Pula(One Ortwo)and Zagreb cste(eight a day on (tW。 )in CrOatia and T

stays open all ycar.

WeCkdayS)in ltaV

Fast― food

Places to Eat and pizzaノ pasta restaurants linc

and Atlas have cars fOr hirc.・ 11lere are quite

Ob」 a.If you want a prOper sit― down meal,

a fcw sm」 lcr agencies along Ob」

thc terrace at thc 7レ ッ ι′ παin the spons ield

at()bala22 1ooks out overthC Fnarina and the

along and comparc prices. 1ヒ lou nlust `pay and diSplay'tO park in iPortoroZ.Four hours

bay.It's open daily frOrn ll arn tillrnidnight.

COStS 100 SI′ r,a full day 300 SI「

Car Kompas He■ z(雪 76170),Obala 41,

.

a so stroll

PrilmOrska― Ponoroを 211

Salt ofthe Sea ,。

、 lthough

making went on fo「 centuries along the lSlovenian CoaSt at plaCeS iike lSeё oVlle and techniq● e changed ve:γ litle right up to 35 years ago when harVeSting on a large scalo ‐

salt‐

St・ unlan,the

canloltol an end.

Tradi薔 ona‖ y,sea water、 vas channelled via three ln‐ flow canalS― the`salt roads'― into sha‖ ow ponds separated by dikes,which、 ″ ere then damrned up with snlal:woodOn paddlos.VVind‐ powered pumps renloved'sonlo of the water and the rost evapOrated in the sun and the wind es the sat

crystallsed frorn the rOnヽ

aining brino.To stop the Salt frOnl turning intO a foul‐

:犠tЪ 肥 織悩 鶏棚:r滞 :組問 闘留γ ち 捌雪漑需 :縄

￨『

:淑

and eisewhero. of

to

tasting,reddish‐ brovvn

I器

i:器

T肥

:『 :認

athe

●コ 一 〓 ０ ” リ ス＞

used in the 19th century to treat■leurnatisrn and

I躙

212 Pnl■ lorska― Around Po

Getting Around Bus I&I minibuses makc

oroを

heron― arnong the 150 species that iock c loop from the

Lucija camp sites to centrd Po■ Piran throughout the ye`『

oroを

and

ring'73

Car&Motorcycle Atlas and Roseゎ ur motor scootes for between 45(Ю

Seё ovlje

is right on the border with

Cro江 iaald tore∝ h ityou mustpassthrOugh

.

Tax:For a local taxi in Po■ oroを 555 or hall one by the post Ofice.

here.

rcnt

and 5400

Slovenian immigration and custOms irst (dOn'tお rget yOur paSSpOrt).Bebre yOu cross 6e CЮ an checkpOint,■ ough,you make a Sharp tum tO thC ght(eaSO ald continuc dong m unsedcd Юad br just under3km..rhetwoinuscum buildings stand

SIT aday.You can dso記 ,ntinOpedダ buggies froin an outit cdled lκ la at Obda 127 1or

out along one ofthe canals;they are the only renovated houses of the rnany still standing

1500ノ 3500 SIT Pcr hour Lela has a l℃ ntal

at Seё oVte.

kiosk in season near the beach OppOsite the

■he exhibits relate to all aspects Of salt‐ making andthelives OfsdtwOrkes and meir

Grand P」 頷)c

hotel.

くＹＯＣＯ窟 一 匡ａ

Bicycle Atlas and Rosetour rent bicyclcs for 1600 to, 1800'SIr per day.1｀ 1ley cost l(XX) SIT fortwo hours from the Lela cnt」 鳳osk.

AROUND PORTOROZ

familicsi tools,wcights,water jugs,straw hats,baklng uじ nsils and the seds used tO

mark loaves of bread b`ked commundly. They arc not in theinselves very interesting,

butthe sunoundings are and you do begin to

get a fCeling Of hOW the Sο ′ ′ ″α4′ 」(Salt

Seё oVlie

WOrkerS)liVed and WOrked(SCtt bOXed text

The abmdOned SdtpanS atS∝ 。V」 e,StttCh―

been tumed into a regional pa・ k and nature reselⅣ e.In the centre is the wondernll salt_

Cntitled Sdt Ofthe SCa).Out a■ Ong the panS south of the rnuscunl is a windl‐ ipovrered pump GuStお 110W the earthen dikCS b re¨ h it)that Still tWiriS in the brecze.lbe museum slぬ ffrnakeuseofit and othertO。 lstOprOduce

ing soinc 650 hectares fronl Seё a to the DragonJa River on the Croadan border,havc

wolrks MuSeum,ranked in the top 12 by the

a quandty of salt―

European IM〔 useums Association.

yeT,in metrad

T'hc aca,cnsscrossed with dikcs,chan― nels,pools and canals,was Once a hive of

frorn 9 anltili noon and 3 to 6 pin.Adrnission

activity and was onc of the biggcst rnoney―

is 350 SI「 for adults and 250 SIF lor children.

Spinners on the coast in the Middle Agcs. Today,it looks like a ghost town with its einpty gl℃ y― stOnc houses and pans sIOwly

tOWn Of Seё oVte(SiCCiOle in lt」 ian),あOut

being taken Over by har《 iy vcgetation.lPart Of

anduЮ

park,seё ovije iscerily quietexccPt

for the occasiOnal cry Of a gull,an egret or a

The

about 180 tonnes― every

ond way. l■ useunl is Open′ ruesday to sunday

Getting There&Away Buses stop at the l.5knl north ofthe bordet sO it wOuld be best

to catch a bus heading into lstlla if yOu can and get offjust beお he CrO“ m fronticr

“

Notraniska H!GHL:GHTS

`Inncr(〕 arnlola' is the lcast dcvcloped of

SIovcnia's eight traditional provinces. It is ・ Discover Prediama Caslo,bu‖ t into a

largely covered in forest― the seting of nlany of the country's myths and legends (see boxed text endtled iBig Men for Big

nlountain cave e Viow Lake Cerknica in winter

・

TimeS)― butitS mOSt diStinguiShing CharaC― tenstic is its ka・ st Caves below thc ground.

(forthe intrepid only)

on Polharska Noo(1)orinouse Night)in

late september a sne2nik castle ・ T,Oat you“ elfto musical pЮ grams at he Concert Ha‖ in Postolna Cave

c

Notranjska is the most typiCal Din

Tn′ dining On dOr,niC。

region of Slovenia,but its karst is diffcrent

・ Enioy tho four days of the fanlous

frOm thtt Of Primorska.Abundant rain and snow f」 lhet,butthe ground is like a great

Cerklica Carnival

C:ruyё re cheese;the water vanishes into the

ground and resulfaces on the f nges ofkarst .NoLanjska is」 so known ields c」 led′ οヶι for its undergrOund riVerS(eg UniCa,PiVka,

巧ublanica,Rよ )and lntermittcnt'1よ

es at

Cerknica and Pla na. NotranJSka had― and to a cenain cxtent still has― poorconlinunications links,which deep forests and valleys ofthisisolated prov―

incehasbeen dificultforcenturies and when thc railwり linking T cste md LJublana

opcncd in 1857, it sidcstcppcd inuch of Notrangska.No廿 attSka was hit by inassive elnigratiOn(eSpCCially arOund CerkniC→ frorn the turn of the century up to WI.

com.mercidiscd and crammed most of the yea・ with coachcs and tour groups;many travcllers prefer the less visited cavcs north

Tloday nluch ofthe province is given ovcr to

of the tOWn Or the OneS at SkoCian in

logging,especially on the BIoke Plateau―

PrimOrska.It's notthe end ofthe、 vorld ifvou miSS POStO」 na;gOtO Sk。 可an and yOu'1l See

the birthplace Ofskiing in Europe,according

tO sOme_and in the Loを Valley. Thereis a mOve Ю make a 60 sq km picce vest to of land around l′ ake Cerknica, 、 Postana,cast to Snc2nik and south to the

bOrder with Croatia into`Notranjska Regional P)ark'.Much ofthc country's wild― life(and mOSt aggreSSiVe anim」 S)liVe in thiS

somcthing much morc wonderful.

Thc Postqna CaVe(PoStOJnSka Jaina) system,a senes of caverns,halis and pas‐ sages sorne 27krn long and 2 million years Old, was h。 110、 ved Out by the lPivka River, which entcrs a subterranean tunnei near the cave's entrance..I'he nver coninuesits deep

passage underground, carving out several sc cs of cavcs, and cmerges again as the Unica Rivcr.The Unica meandcrs through a sunken ficld of porous limcstone― the

region. '「 here are alreadv snlall regional

parks at the Rakov Sko● an Gorge and around SneZnik Castle.

PlaninSkO P01Je(Planina Plain)― WhiCh

POSTOJNA

srcο 623θ α′ ″αι ο ど′●θ67・ ′ο The kastcave・ Postana,one ofthe`′ largest

becornes Lake Planina in the rainy scason. But,asis the naturc ofwhatis c」 led a′ ο″οr ver,it is soon lost to the underground.It

.′ ο ヮ821a,・

in the world, is among SIovenia's most

rcappeTS nCar Vrhnika aS the巧 ublmiCa

pOpular attractions. As a result, it is very

213

ＺＯ■■＞Ｚ﹂∽バ＞

stuntcd developrnent.Transport through the

214 No=`mjska― Postqna

くＹＯ﹁Ｚく∝卜ＯＺ

▲ZaⅢ P

Riverandcontinuesitsjoumeyno■ hward to the capital.

inner parts were not exploltd until Apnl 1818,just days beお re mc a

vd ofHabsburg

EmpeЮ r FranzI(mled 1792-1835).Theお Hidory

1-

dates back to the 12th century,but there is

lowing yea the Cave Comnussion acceptcd its irst organised tour grOup,including Archduke Fcrdinand,md Postoina's iture

little of interest here except fOr a very small

as a ourist destinttiOn was seded.

ThetownofPostojna(Adelsbergin Germm)

colection in me Kast Mu∞

um誠 ■lЮ v=g2.

Even in those early days,the very poor

na lClave has been known ― and

region of No廿 anJSka saw■ he potential ecO_

visited― by residents of the`u・ ea fOr centu‐ nes;One need Only 100k atthe grafati dating

nOnlic benefits,andin 1823 aguidebook was published to IPostOina,which also included

back seven ccnturies in thc Gallery of()ld

the Skoc」 an and Vilenica cavcs as well asthc

Signaturcs by the entrancc.lBut peoplc in the

merCury mine at ldrija.Since men somc 27

Middle Ages knew only the entrances.′ he

miliOn pCOple haVe ViSited POStOina.

Posto」

I｀

Notrangska―

Posqna 215

m」 ning 1700m is on foot.Befoκ

Orientation The town OfPOstOり na lies in the Pivka lvialley

江 the foot of Soviё Hlll(677m).The Pivka ivet once lined with water mllls,and the

R、

entrancc tO the cave arc about l.5kin nol・

111-

west of Titov trg,the centtc oftown. POstOり na'sbus station is at'ritovacesta36,

you

“ enterthe cave,have alook atthe Pivka River justopposit asit indsits way undergЮ und. 'I'hat water has created evcrything you are aboutto sce. Firstyou board me mini‐ tr n,justbeyond thc cntrance,th■ runs for about 3km to tte

wett of Titov trg.The about 250m sou■ ―

Big Mountain(Velka Coro cavem.Heκ

こ olodvorska cesta abOut

you stand under one of the five signs idend‐

train station is on Iく

lkrn to the south‐ east ofthe square.Ifyou're walking,the f`楽 ,test way to get to the town

″ing yOurimguage,mdawi“ eSCOns yOu through hals,g」 lenes and cavems. Thcsc tte dry g」 leries,d(κ olほ ted with a

ccntre from the train station isto gc)`lownthe

steps at the sollthern cnd of the station and

blow Pod Kolodvorom to Ulica l Maia, which leads into・

I｀

itov trg.

vast array of whit st」 acdtes shaped like nccdles,enormous icicles md cvcn fragile spagheti.Thesdag t∝ take f翫 1■ a ttapes

_pears,caulinower and sand castles_but

inforπ lation

there are also bizarrc columns,Pillars and

￢Ourist offices The tourist officc(● 25 041;fax 24 870),by theentranCe toPostojna

translucent cunains that look like rashers of

clave at Jl霞 nska ccsta 30, is open April to

septmbcr iOm 9 am to 6 pm dally.In town seek assistance■ oln thc helpful staff江

Kompas(sce TrNel Agcncy).

bacon.Allin dl,it could be a nightmare for myoncwhosawmonstsin■ ledarkasachid. Many of the dnpstoncs are colourfully (and artifiCia■ y)lit in“ dS,OrangeS,brOWnS and whitcs.Only one of the h」 ls is coin‐

■oon and 3to 5 pin andon Samrday morning. SKB Banka at Liubljanska cesta 5a hぉ 帥

across the nussian Bridge,built by prisOn‐

A「M.stil lb

,犯

m ttT2ぶ ka cesL 4 changes

FrolTi theヽ ielika Gloracavcrll you continue

es of wT in 1916,

rough the 500m-long

money wihouttakng acommlssion.■ isopen

Beautifui Caves(Lepe Jame)illed with

weckdays iom 8 am Ю 6 pm and Saturday

wOnderful sLlactites and stalagmits shaped like nbbons.In case you wel℃ wondering,it

to l pm.ヽ lou can dso change moncy at Kolmpas,but the conlinission there is 3%.

●kes 10 yea・ stoproduce lm■ lofastalactite. The h」 ls of the Bcaudful Caves a・ e the

Post&(Domrnunications The post oficeis

fardlest pOint yOu'1l reach;froln hcre a man‐

at Ulica l Mtta 2a,a short distance south of

1■

TitOv trg.Itis opcn weekdays from 7.30 am

(Crna Jam→ and PiVka CaVe,but yOu'11

to 7 pm and on Saturday fron18 a■

have to visit thcrn fronl the entrance at the

l tili noon.

ade tunncl stretches to thc Biack(Cave

Pivka Janla canlp site to the nordl.

￢ravel Agency KOmpas(雷

25439)江 Titov

trg 2a is Open weekdays from 8 am to 8 pm (7 pm in wint⇒ and on Saturday from 9 am to l pnl.

hc tour continucs south through the Whter Ha‖ (Zimska Dvorana)past he Br‖ ‐ 'I｀

:iant Stalagm:te and the Pi:lar Colulmln, which have b(κ ome the syinbols ofthe cave (and which look pretty silly when repro―

P。 ゛。ina

duced graphically on the guides'badges

CaVe

VisitOrs get to sec about 5.7knl of the cave ‐ on lレ タ hour tours, but the lazy or infil■ n shOuldn't fret― about 4knl are covered by a ci●cu12r electnc train that will shutde you

through the so‐ called C)ld Passage. ・ hc I｀

and on bumper StiCkerS).

iOu then entCr 燿 ピ

the Concert Hall(Koncertna Dvorana), which is thc largeSt in the SySteFn and Can

accommodate 10,000 people for rnusica11 perfornlances.

ＺＯ↓刀＞Ｚ﹂のス＞

cesta2.Itis open weckdaysfrom 8.30 am till

pletely devoid of thein.It was here that the Partisans blew up a Nazifuel dunlp in 1944, and you can still see the blackened walls.

Money Banka Koper has abranch atTrね :`ka

216 No甘 al」 Ska― Postoina

a c8″

p

リ  ｌω

¨ い 御 一 :¶

E■ nn∞

鼎 R3蹴留

P出 l曲 PI

i昂

識&Sauna n3

ato RoDms

Jndほ n Rosbuttnt

Banka Koper

,lJ晰 :P欧 POst omce

欝 『魏離:u‖

7わ vl,

め an"BuЮ au

ka Su"ma“

t

く Ｙ ∽ ﹁２ く 匡 卜Ｏ Ｚ

l爾

POStOina

C)nc of the last things you'1l see before

′

`4α

jacket is essential.Don't worry if yOu

boarding the train fOr the trip back is a tank

haven't brought one along;green‐ felt cloaks

■ned wim pink salamanders.Thcse bizarrc

can be hircd at the entrance for 100 SIT.

・ e P“οた sa″ g“ ι ″′s,auniquc`huinan ish'that “ was first describcd by Janez VaJkard (and rather rude-100king)litlC thingS :俎

ShOeS aFe nOt aS big an iSSuC here aS theV are

a the Sk∝ 」 ancatts and atorch(nashlight) is not necessary; the cave has been lit by

VlalVaSOr aS thC `dragOn'S OffSpang'(SeC boxed text entitled Proteus Anguinus, the Human Fish).The salamander isjust one of 190 SpeCieS Of fauna (beCtleS, batS, cave

electncity sincc 1884 when inany European

hedgehOgS etC)fOund in the CaVe and studied at the Biospelcologic」 station here.

SiOn at this tirne is 1900/950 SIT' for

The cave has a constant ternperaturc Of 8° C and huinidity of 959,so a waterproof

April and again in Octoberthere a℃

citics were sill using gas.

From May b September,toursieave ddly On the hOur betWeen 9 aln and 6 p:■ .Admis‐

adultS/StudentS and childrcn.In March and tOurs at

10 am,noon,2 and 4 pm with an extra daily

Notra■ ska― PostoJna 217 onc at 5 prn in April and tours atthcヽ

VeekCnd

45 ininutcs,butits stalagrnites and stalactites

′ here's no clectric

in (E)ctOber at ll arn and l, 3 and 5 pnl.

arc vcry inlpressivc.

Bctwcen Novcmber and Fcblualy,tours lcavc at 10 am and 2 pm on wcckdays Ⅵith cxtra

lighting so you'1l nccd a torch and the tcnl― peraturc is also 8°

´

I｀

C.

he inost popular cavcs after Posto」 na― Pivka and lBiack caves― arc about 5kni to

Oncs added at nOon and 4 Pnl atthe weekcnd

I｀

and public holidays Adnlission during thc

thc north and thc cntrance is in thc Pivka Janla canlp site You rcach the 4krn-long system by dcscending a couplc of hundrcd

carly and latc scasons is 1600/80()SIT

Other Caves

stairs.A walkway has becn cutinto the wa‖

Tlo the north of PostoJna lic several sinallcr

but cqually intcrcsting cavcs created by thc

of a canyon in Pivka{Cavc, with its tヽ vo

Pivka Rivcr and still part of the PostoJna

siphon lakcs and a tunncl,and a bridgc lcads

systerll.1・

to:Black Cave.This is a dry cavern and,as

hcy too are opcn to the public.

iS:and CaVe(OtOgka Jama),a hal「 hOur walk nOnh― wcst fronl Posto」 na Cavc,is very snlall(632nl in total)and the tourtakes only

its nanle implies,its dripstones are not、 vhitc.

′

A tour of both cavcs takes llレ 2 hours.

P:anina Cave, 12krn to thc no■

h― east

Hulmlan me and is the

of

and has been

わ

abot:t

ＺＯ﹁コ＞Ｚ﹂０パ＞

known to

218 Notrattska― POstoina ncar the unpredictable Lalke PI`ulina,is the largest water cave in S10venia and a treasure trOVe Offauna(inCluding P“ ο″ Sα′ 3g“ 滋 Sり “ This is where thc Pivka ttld Rakjoin brces“ to for■lthe Unica Rive■ 11le cave's entrance is atthe foot of a l(Ю m rOck wall.It's over .

6kin long and you gettolvisit about 9(X)■

l of

it in an hout'I｀ he■)ι re no lights so takc a tonch.Many l)anls of the cave are acccssible only in low water or by rubber raft.

These caves Tc al1 0pen from June to Septmber and cal be visitd between two ald fOurtimeS eVery day(WeCkendS Only at the lsland Cave).For infonnation about the lsiand,PivkaaldBlaに kcaves,c」 lthe tounst ofice(● 25041)江 Postojna.For Planina Cave, ng● 57686.Adinission is lα Xソ 500

ming pool.You can walk tO the camp sitc me b“ st from Postojna」 。ng a

thЮ ugh

inarked trail in about 45 ininutes.

Private Roorris Kompas can organise private Ю Oms in and aound Posto」 na

br

about 2(XX)SIr perpcrson.The″ οο″:s avall‐ able a TomgiCeva ulica 3 above TiЮ vけ g are vcry centr」

.

い。10bThe。 」yhoteHhP。 。 ¨BtoWn iS● e mmκ ′ 〈● 24071;は“ 24431)facing T"ov tB“`歯■2壼 ka α闘● 1.Singl“ wi● "― bに 1よ fa8:田 ● 8hOWer Sun“ S(XX SIT, dix:bl“ at 8∝ Ю SIT.

So腱

200■

=outh eat of me en■

n∝

o

POStO,Da CaVe“ JanSka C“ 328,the 136‐

SIT adults/smden"and children fOrcachcave.

mom Jω

Horse Riding

slr t,radouble The“ isumen桜 連Юntostty at het● 。u“ unLSyOu Wmt O bethe ■■ m in be mve n the!Ю mmgrnに

The Kavd IIotte Riding Centre(● 54506) 江 Prcsttalek CastL,atx)ut 6.5km south of

くＹ∽﹁２くエト０ ２

Postojna,is one of the mOst pЮ Lssiond stあ lesin Sloveda and an ex∝ lentplκeお r leaming b ridc or impЮ ving your sklls. (The hiStOry Of hOrSe br∝

dng=the castle

goes backわ the caly 18血 century.)The Cent:C iS open daily'on1 9 to ll aniand 4 to 8 pnl in sunllncr and 10.30 anlto 12.30 Pin ald 2● 5 pm in winte■

Specia:Events Musical lperfornlances are staged in the

Concert H」 1江 POstOjna Cave in summer and on vanous holidays thrOughoutthe year, especi」 ly the week between Ch stinas and

New Yetr..This is aso tte time whenぬ e `Live Ch stm`s Crib'― the Ch strnそ鴻stOry pemomlcdby a3tos_takesplaα 〕in thecave. places to StaV

Camping The Pル λαJα a carnp ground

24172:f獣 .24431)COStS

f:on1 6200"a(● Srr ior a sin」 ●and iun 10.OЮ

0

"澪 ml■ door8 m P∞1(4∞ o 5∞ STD,sama c∞ ● 10∞ SID a“ h01● lMs

“ 6● es,∝ nt■ o"nw∝ kdaysfmm4“ 9pm md“ the W∝ bnd iOm 103m o 8口 几 Pl■ 03810曰 強

The`a`′ 口 lt On TitOv trg in "restaur田 POStO,n30Ⅵ lh88 a gOOd d∝ On d 6 she澪 . t heycm"p口 ∝ ユ “

Pた ″″ ″ 紘 winaterttOu歯 “a∝ ubuコ lよ "“al● 18 8 10Calね Ю urt ““ Opend3ny0 1l “ Pm.1■ efttt‐ fOOdZ"″ 凛0ツ B″置 =Exl ω ●c,4″ 晨 ′● ■をきta "′ Ce8ta 9 hag SandWiCh6.mini‐ Pi2a`etC aVal● leぬ ily¨■ 7.30錮 lo 7Pm. ■EE aen口 ly pla∝ sOc● ■●etα 飩 CompleX‐ ■ P颯。ina Q鵬 ,inClu“ n3a 認 .■に メz`"α and絆 o“r“ httt燿 ・ “ "“ J● 懃 !‐ 饉uimtin a 192● ■tyI● building "諄 xt t tte ei m“ ●o the αlve h"th"● “ L」

mmu¨ r12∞ md 15∞ Srr

“ h(κtare site in (● 25382)islocated on a 2.5‐ a pine forest near the entrance to lPivka and BlaCk CaVes.Itis open frorn May to Septelnl‐ bcr and cos“ 14∞ SIT per peson.The 20

“ u議 断 ∞

box‐ likc

bungdOws wi血 おur beds each ae 10,∝Ю SIT,apartments br bur`駅 ,12,α Ю

lma and thC COaSt StOp tt bstoina.COunt

SI「.If yOu're in a group tllis is a pleasant,

andhOuny Ю Pivka,atownsoumofPostoina

■iendly place to ttay,and there's a swiin―

(and not me camp sit).

Getting There&Away Bus All the buscs travening between Liub‐ On a bus about every half‐ hour to the capitll

NOtranJska― P“ dJama Castle 219 C)therdestinations andtheirdaily fl℃

quen―

CiCS inClude:Celje(SiX),CerkniCa(One tO

P"EDJAllA● ASTLE

・ ●,1,“

● 1,,7・ ″

``χ

●62,1,

""`」

Siol,led `′ ia the gaPi1lg incu●

four),Kopcr(10),Koper via nirska Bistnca

h」 fway up a bubidヽ

(one),Maribor(six),IM:urska Sobota(two),

ofィ i cavern

abOut 9km.nOrth we"

Lda(one),Nova Gorica(one0 1ouO,Plran

び R,St,腱 ,1ホ fOur StOEy CaStiCh● 。ned

(eight Or ninC),SeZana(thrCC b iVe)ald

the most dranlatic settings anywhere. 却 ●例 Of“ H“ u触 鷹 Can“ dま 想

Loを (one). Stai Trg p Intemational destina」 ons include Poreё

(one bus a day),Rijeka(One)and Zagreb (three)in CrOatia and TrieSte(tWO frOm

Mondり

O Satumay)in lt」

back to the c,,ly “ 13th ctntu:う

"L“

',tte castle as

you〔 確,it today is"。m the l“h cenary.

■,n-3s

now―

it loo■ od

unconqu(rablら

in tL∝ ntに ofa 123m clir

y.

¨ ,but」 。ngca熊 。:Ю Bnan ucger,a "th“

￢rain Po飩oJna is on the man linc linking 巧ubljma(67km;onc hour)with Scを ana and THeste via,Divそ てa(37km;40 minutes).As nlany as 20面 ns a day make the mn from 血ecapitatOPOstOjnaaldb`κ k.YOu can dso reach here from Koper(86km;114 hours)on one of up to eighttrains a day.

15● cet仙 ,robber“ Ю n Who,lkc Robin Hood.wayldd w8gOns n the d∝ p Foによ

.

St01e die 100t and h3nded it OVertO the p00■

巨 w菌 1● ● IIunganans 攘 C"Ⅲ ‐ )コ d (un● rg。 。d`"M耐 昴● k Austria s c"hind Ⅲ

Dunng● ow田

H F国

fol● IID.Luegぼ 譴 “ =“ 回 ed b Ber up m the csuc a血 d cOntinuOd his "0"Od雌

Forataxiin Posto」 na c:■ 1● 23941.■ 1lcPivka

Ю.ctpassag。 dari:lgdeedswithulehelpOf8■ 掟 th“ led Q:tF,Oml鰺 ndtherock wal.F● d‐

Jaina carnping ground has bicycles for rent.

enck w鮎 ,li

Getting Around

O.

ＺＯ■■＞Ｚ﹂∽バ＞

The four_storey Prediama castlo,9km no■

h‐

west of Posuna,has a spectacular se

in the centre of a 123rn― high c‖ ff.

ng peched

220 NotranJSka― Cerknica In thc auturnn of 1483,thc Austrian arnly attacked the castle, but it prOved impreg‐

ShOrt CirCula tOuS OfPrettama CaVe leaVe

nable for months.All the while Er"lein inocked the soldiers and showeredthem with ish,the occasional■ Oast ox and even chen■ es to provc that he caine and wcnt as he please〈

l.

But Erazenl provcd to be too big fOr his

breeches and rnet an ignoble fate. Having

gone `to where cvcn thc sultan rnust go alonc'(as Valvasor desc bcd it),Erazem was hitby acannon ball as he satOn thetOilet. Aturncoat servant,itseems,had bctrayed his

at ll am and at l,3 and 5 pm from Mayto Septcmber and cost 600/3(Ю SIT or900/450 SIT for both the cそstic and the cave.I´ Onger tOurS ― to the end of the cave's iEastern

Passage(3000 SIT)orthe recendy reopened

Erazem's Gale,(Er2mov Rov;1600 SIr) are avallablc by pnor alTangcmnent only. IfyOu Want Or need tO Stり 。ut heκ (tranS― pO■ iS t Cky),thC Cο S″ ′ ″αPο r nCa the tickct klosk has roorns..There's also `α accOrn‐

boss by rnarking the locatiOn Of the watcr

■lodation available at the 19“ αzι ″ nl()tcl (● 59185)about 3km south― east nea the

closetwitt alittle nag forhe AusLian soldics.

village of Belsko.

The castle is notin velγ

PredJarna is diricult t。

good shape now―

ach by public

adays and the eight,T〕 useum roo:T:s cOntain

“by loc」 transport.As close as you'll get

littic of interest exccpt for a po■ lrait of E.razem and an oil painting of thc 1483-84

frOm PO飩 可na(and du

SiCge・

But PЮ ttama'S StnHng pOS

On and

the views of the valley be10w are incOmpa―

bus

ng the SCh001 year

only)is 13ukovJe,a villagc about 2krn north‐

cast ofPrettama.A taxi from Post● na plus an hOur's wait at the castle costs 5000 SI・

■

rable. And it does have all the features a

castle should havel a drawbndge over a raging river, holes in thc cciling of the くＹＯつＺく∝卜ＯＺ

entrancc towcr for ipouring boiling oi1 0n

CERKNICA

θ S'CO″ ′ J“ ・ ´″αc″ ′●θ6′ ・ ′ο ・ ′ο ′∬θ This is the largesttown on thc lakc thatisn't

intrudcrs, a very (lank dungeon, a 16th

always a lakc― one of Slovcnia's mOst

cenmry chcst mll of ttasurc(unearthcd in

unusual natural phenoinena.Ccrknica itself

the Cellar in 1991)and an eyrie■ lke hiding

is not important as a destination,but it is CIose to the`internlittent'iLakc(]erknica,the

Place at the top called Era20m'S Nook.Just WatCh out when、 ″alking and clirnbing over tlle very uneven surfaces.

regional PTkな ound Rakov Sk∝ jm Gorge, ふ ′ It SneZnik and Sneを nik C,asde.

The cave be10w the casde,carved out by

theLokvaand NanoSdcasけ eains,is

actu」 ly

Thc area around the lake has been sctded

since prehistonc timcs,and a tradc rout

a7kin neか ,vork of gallc cs spread over ive levcis.Much of it is open Only tO speleolo‐

once ran Over tte B10ke Plateau tO mc east, linkingSIoК niamdCЮ a DumgtLRolnそ

gists,but casual visitors can sec about 900rn.

pe

■'here is no electl■ c lighting,and■ le trall is

StOpOVer On thc road leading fl・ orrl EInona

only partially constructed sO you will need to don rubber boots and calry tOrches,both Of WhiCh:霞・ e availablc at the cntiance.For

(町 ublma)tO the COお t.CerkniCa Wお giVen town statlls in the llth century.

inお rmatiOn,Cont∝ t

Postqna Cavc(● 25

041)or thc castle dicctly(●

P“ diamaiS open dttly yca

59260). Юund.From

June to Augustthe hours are 9 am t0 7 prn; in May and Septernber the castle closes an hourearlie■ In M:電 ℃h and Aprll and again in OCtOber the dally hOurs are 10 am to 5 pin. In wintcr― Novembcrわ Febmary― it Opcns

Tucsday to F

day from 10 am to 4 P■l and

at the weckend to 5 pin.Admission is 500/250 for adults/students and children.

m

od,Cerknica(Cirkniz “ in German)was a

But Cerknica is a good cxarnplc of hOw importalt cOmmunication lines are for the dcvclopinent Of a tOwn.Thc rdlway linking TheSt ad巧 ubuma opened in 1857,but it

dOdged Cerknicain favour ofRakek,5km to me nOr■ ‐ west.The highway■ omLjubjala toWard the coastfollows the s:une route,and

Cerknicarem」 ns something ofabackwate■ With some of Notranjska's mOtt beautiml fo“ sts ald heir,agilc ecOsystems in■ e toWn's back yard,thatrnay not bc such a bad thing.

N。 廿anjska_Cerknica

Bankへ Open weekdays only from 8.30 an

Or:entation&informlation ccrknica lics north of Lake(Cerknica and about 16km north east Of POStOり na.Cesta 4 Mala,thc man sticet,is the cenけ e of Юwn. ・I'he bus statiOn is on Cabranska ulica about 100m to the south‐ west. cerknica's tOunst officc(■

221

tillnoon and2 o 5 pm,is atPardzanskacesta l.T'hc post office,ncxt door to the tou

st

Ottce at Cesta 4 Mtta 52,is o"nfrom 8 an to 7 prn wcekdays and on Saturday till noon.

793636;fax

791 201)is at CeSta 4 Ma,a51.It is open weekdays from 7.30 am to 3 pin ald on

saturday fron1 8 arn till noon. Nova Liub」 mska Banka haS a branCh in the Mer‐ catOr shOpping centre at Cesta 4 Mtta 64.It

Parish Church of Our Lady sitting atOp a gcnde slope 200■ l north of

Cesta 4 Mala,this church is■ e only red attrac」 。n rightin cerknica.Tolに a)h it,wak up the stcetsimply caled TabOr,whichュ ins

is Open from 8 to ll anl and 2 to 5.30 pm

to the cast of the shopping centrc.This was

weekdays and On saturday lnonling.SKB

c」 led`Road of the Pat

額℃hs'in mediev」

わ 01"Jma

Ｚ Ｏ ↓ コ ＞ Ｚ ﹂∽ バ ＞

0● rknlca

S■ 0●

veu■

m

,aVOmL

¨ ¨

｀ ▲

Lake Cerknlca

222 NotranJSka― Cerknica tiFnCS ヽ VhCn

CCrkniCa WaS thC Centre Of

'I｀

this grcat Rcnaissancc rnan was made a mcinber ofthc Royal Society in London,thc

Aquileia's estates in the area. he church satin thc rniddle Of a fOrtificd

settlement,and the ramparts and two tOwers, built to withstand・ urkish ralds in thc latc 15th century, rcrnain intact ()n thc Latin I｀

PIaquc in thc wall,thc nurnber 4 ofthc ycar 1472 is written with a 100p_the top half of

an 8-bccausc 4 was considercd unlucky in the Middle Ages,asitstnlisin much OfAsia. Colnpleted in the early 16th century,this

is a hall church _ with nave and aislcs of

prenlicr scicntific institution in the wOrld at thc tinle.

Ccrknica is apoljc,a■ cld abovc a collaPSed

karst cavcrn full of sinkholes, potholes, siphons and undcrgrOund tunncls that can stay dry fOrrnuch Ofthc year butthcn floods.

From the south,the p01jc is td by anOther one of those disappcanng ponor l‐ lvers,the Striを en, and to the cast and west it collects watcr undergrOund fronl the lBIokc lPlateau

equal hcight― and not unlikcthc One atl(ranJ in Gorengska. In thc 18th century two sidc chapels werc addcd,and the bell tOwcr、vas givcn its baroquc domc.

watcr comes mshing into thc p01je.Spnngs emergc and thc watcr begins to pcrcolate

Lake Cerknica

bctwcen the rOcks,as thOugh it were boiling. The sinkhOlcs and siphons cannot handle the

■1lis periodic lakc has baf(lcd and pcrplexed pCOF)le sincc ancient timcs, including thc reCk geOgraphcr and historian Strabo(63

outЛ ow undcrground and thc polJC becolncs Lakc Ccrknica― sometiincs in lcss thal a day. ´ I・ 1le surfacc area of:Lakc (E〕 crknica can

(:〕

BC-24 AD)who called hc myste■ ous and‐ off body of water I_′

on―

acus Lugeus

く Ｙ Ｏ ﹁Ｚ く 〓 卜 ● Ｚ

(Mouming Lよ c).Howcver,it wasn't until Valvasor explained hOw the watcr system

and the Javornik Mountains. I)uring rainy periods in the autumn and spring, all this

reach almost 40 sq kln(Lakc BohinJ in

Goκ ■Ska is a quancr mat sizc),but it is nCVCr morc than a tw mctrcs deep.Dunng

worked atthc cnd ofthe 17th ccntury thatit

dry periOdS(uSually July tO Septclllber), farmcrs dnvc cattle down to the poljc and

was fully undcrstood.:For his cfforts,in 1697

haynlakcrs cornc to、 vOrk in thc sunshinc.

for Big■ mes bl‖ oЮ 衝o

and愴 les

moま ∞ mmon strength

are dfe 詢 are thoso

hemゎ

ovoЮ ome

NOtranJska― Cerknica 223

ake Cerknica is a beautiful place ― whether dry and under cultivation, full of ヽ Vater(and anglerS and WindSurferS and SWimmerS)Or frOZen Solid.In faCt,it iS in winter th■ the lake bccomes most glo■ ous. The wavcs of the lake fceze into ccric ice I_′

formations, and inalllrd ducks and wild geese drift to and fro.A lot of people skate here then. The lake re」 ly begins at the village of

Dolenie Jezero about 2.5km south of ([〕

erknica.If you continuc south along a trail 110wing the Stiten Rivcr,you'1l come to a

lead you to thc rnost interesting peaks in a vcry full twO― day walk.The ttail heads south― west from Cerknica to thickly forested

ヽleliki Javornik;from here you can take a

sidc trip Of abOut two hours to Rakov SkocJan.The trail then skirts thc southern shore of Lake Cerknica and carnes On north Ю K Zna Gora(856m)and its neaも y cave and nOrth― west to Slivnica(1114■ 1).Sliv―

nica,home of the witch U`ula and other sOrerers,has accOmmOdaiOn m a mountain hut.・I'hc

c next day you walk north to StraZiζ ё

f。

(955m)and back to Ccrknica.

little island called(Dtok with farinland and a

You can do lust parts ofthe walk,such as the stages to Rakov SkocJan,Veliki Javornik

little village.

Or Slivnica.([〕 erknica's tourist office sells the

Rakovこ kocian

′ α useml働 な′げ 助 ′ ゅ肋

■llis gorge 6km wcst of Cerknica has been

m叩

under protection as a regional park since 1949.■le Rak Rivct en ЮuC to join the

Speciai Events

1:50,∞ 0‐ scde

お r10∞ SIT.

Pivka at Planina Cave,sculptcd out 2.5knl of hollows,caves,springs and its big and li■ le

Cerknica is famous for itS CatniV」

natural bndgcs― the Vie:iki Naravni Most

before Ash VViednesday in February or early

and the Mail Naravni Most.'Tb the south lie the Javornik Mountains,including its tallest

Ma,ch.This is the time when the enorrnous

peak,ve‖ ki Javornik(1268m).r you're

Slivnica, and a half― dozen othcr legendary chaacCrs alc dusted offand paraded up and

masks Ofursula,whO makesherholne on Mt

down Ccs愴

4Mttawhne“ ing

pЮ vokdけ

frorn the train station in about one hou■

upstarts with pitchforks.It wasn't such a

Activities Whenit's full,:Lakc(〕 erknicabecornes avast playground for boaters,鉗 lglers ald swim‐

though. Valvasor reports that this part of No甘 anJSka was the cent,c of witch‐ hunting

laughing matter during the Refonnation,

mers.AskthetouristofficeinCcrknicaabout ishing licences(19oo srr a day)and boat rent」 s.

and executions cven in his day.

Places to Stay ′

I'he choice of accorninodation is very

・ he tounst ol[ce can also help alTange tours of the lake by horse‐ driven caniage.

びguesthOuse limited in(cerknica.・rhe rレ rぶ′ .791 354)bet、 veen the tounst ofnce and

The Kontabantarfamhousc('792253)in

the ChuК h of Our Lady at Partizanska ulica 14 has two basic rooms With sharcd shower for 1500 SIT PCr person and a large αl′ α″― ″ ′with ive beds in DolenJC Jezero for `″ 76(X)SIT a night.′ rhe Zι わ ッ′c house “ 5激 so has (奮 793226)■ Partizanska cesta

I｀

Dolc」a Vas(house No 72),a village 2km sOuth― wcst of Ccrknica,has h」 f a dozcn horses lor rent for 1200 SI「 per hour from

Thursday to Sunday as well as offcring lessons(1200 SI■・ per hour)and guided

(1●

cOach tOurs inm the cOuntryside for four to ave people(3000 SIrper hour).It's difficult

acconlmodatlon in two rooins.

tO imaginC a moκ eniOyあ le Way Of eXp10r‐

(■ lobile

ing Lake Cerknica and me surounding hills.

37 beds and is open ycar round except in July. Singles/doubles with breakfast COSt 195Cソ 390()SIr.

′ I｀

hc anca around(:〕 criknica is exccllcnt for

hikes,and the Cerknica Mountain￢ rai:will

The DO,,3 ″αS′ jツ ″jε ′rnOuntain hut l■

0609-619489)on Mt Slivnicahas

Ｚ Ｏ ● コ ＞ Ｚ ﹂∽ バ ＞

coming from Rakck.vou can rcaCh thc Gostige Rakovも kocj“ restaurant onわ ot

(PuStni

Kameval),which takes pl∝ c brお ur days

224 NoranJSka― Sncえ nik Castle Places to Eat

east of Cerknica,is one of the 10veliest and

erknica has a cOuple Of dccent restaurants, including lを ′ ν αsο ′ ビ昴 αl",with its own 7`ツ 」 winc cellar, oppOsite the tourist officc at

best‐ preserved

PartiZanSka CeSta l(Open daily), and ithe Cο s″ ′ ″aP`ぶ d`′ :′ た,some 250m east ofthe

fate of inost other castles in the cOuntry,and

([〕

centre on the inain road.There's a very basic seliselwicc restaurant in the iイ

￨`′

′ οr

castles in S10venia.Because c)差 V1lley

of its secluded position in the iIン

(Loこ kaDolina),it has been able b escape the it looks al■ 10st exactly the way it did nlore than four centunes ago.

shop‐

ping centc opcn weckdays from`α 7 am m 7

Things to See&Do

pm,on Saturday t。 l pm and On Sunday to

Sne2nik CaStle (SChneeberg in Cel■ コ lan), which houses a museunl,stands in a large

ll ain.The superinarket here is Open weck― days from 8 anl■ 1l noon and 3 to 7 pm and on Saturday inorning. J`“ rsたj″ ″″ in DolenJe Jczero is a good Place for ′ a meal while having a look at the lakc. here's a scalc n10del inside. 11lc 「 cο sr」 酪 あνぶたοりα″iS a ShO■ W」 k frOm

`Rα Natural Bridge(Mali Naravni the Littlc

:lllilllnind the Zel`ke Caves at Rakov

Ge

ng There&Away

Bus Asisthe case in this pa

and protected park.lhe entrance is through

a double babican with a drawbndge and a moat.The exhibits in thc man building at esscnti」 ly the entirc household inventory of

・ the SchOnburg‐ ヽ Ⅳaldenburg fanlily, who uscd the castle as a surnmer rcsidcnce and hunting lodge undlヽ Vヽ 1■ I.・ he castle is full oftasteful penod funliture;One r0011lis done I｀

up in Egyptian handicrafts presented to Herman schё nburg_waldenburg by a fiiend eそ

ofNotranJSka,

rly in the century.The cそ 鴻tle also contalns

an art ga‖ ery.

くＹ∽﹁Ｚく〓卜Ｏ Ｚ

between.

Adiacent to thc cЖ tle,a19th ccntury building that once servcd as a dairy now cont ns a small Dormouse Mul関 ,um(scん Speci」 Events).There's nOtinuch you won't

They inClude iBIOgka POliCa(tWO buSeS a

know about this incredible‐ edible fel10w's

day),Hrib‐ Loこ ki Potok(one on wcekdays),

life and habits a‐ nter a visit here.

Nova Vas(up to th“ e),Postana(thec)ald Sne2nik CaStle(OnC OrtWO).

Novcmbet恥 4ednesday

bus scn/icc to and fl()nl Clcrknica is not glに

,at.

BuSeS run hOurly t。 コ ubjanaand up Ю fiVe times a dり to Loを ,R`よ ck and Sta Trg,but other destinations are few and fal・

Sneを nik C;astle is open inid‐

Apni to inid‐

to Friday,frol■

10

arn 0 1 pm ald 3to 6 pm.On Samrday and lirain Luckily, therc's a train statiOn at

Sunday it is open the same hOurs with no

Rakek, abOut 5km to the north― west of

break. Adinission is 500/350 SIT for

erknica, and it's on the line connecting 均 ubljanawith Setana.About 15 trains a day

adults/students and children.

([〕

stop at Rakek to or from thecapit」 .Heading south,a1l ofthese sbp■ PostojnaandRvka, but only about half cany on to lE)ivaCa and Seをana.

Cetting Around lhe No廿 anり ska Ecology Centtc(雪 7910(レ 1) above the tourist ofFicc at Cesta 4 Mala 51 rents bicycles for 12()()ノ 2CX)0/350(ソ 500()SI「

for half a day/full day′ thrce days/fivc days.

SNE2NIK CASTLE This 16● century Renaissance castlc below the village of Kozanも ёe,sorne 21knl south―

1 6th century Snettnik Castle is one ofthe best preseived in slovenia.

STⅣ E FALLON

STⅣ EFALON

A

B

C

Al 1 6th century Renaissance Sne2nik Castle,near Kozariも ёe,Notraniska B:Cyc:ing is a wonderful way to tour around NotraniSka C):The beautiful and rnysterious`disappearing'Lake Cerknica

釘 EVE臥 uON

STEVE FALLON

STEVE臥 LON

A: Riding a!ong the K■ 口tlRiver,near C: Bundings at Baza 20,KoOevski Rog,

A B

C D

Otoё ec

Casue,Dolettsio

B:Zu2emberk Casue nuins.Krka River Va‖ ey,Doieniskl

Do:eniska

D:Mobile beehive,Koё evski Roo.

Dolettska

NOtranJska― Sneを nik Castle 225 ソ ι び′″a `ぶ jた ヵ′ ιれ S″ ′を ″蔵′(mobilc● 0609-615356),

Sneを nik{Castle would inake an exccllent bicycle trip frorn Ccrknica.If you make the

There is accom.modation atthe Zα

neccssary preparations in advancc, you

open on Saturday,Sunday and holidays frorn

could stop at Krittna Cave,about a kilomctre

June t。 (:)ctOber and daily in August.

or so after you turn or the man cerknica road.■ he cavc,which was carved out by

watcr iOin thc Bloke Platcau,is 8.5km long and counts some 22 underground lakcs illed with grccn and bluc water as well as a unique `forest'of icc stalagrnites ncar the cntrancc.

Speciai Events Suinmcr conce■s arc hcld as p=t of the Sneを nik Evenings fcstival from■ uly to Sep‐

じmbct cOn鯰 ctthc museum(● 707 814 or '708400)Or the tounst office(奮

793636)

raft.But in order to do so you inust contact

in Cerknica for details.111le big occasion in these parts is Don■ ousc Night(Polharska Noё )held in l江 e Septembcr during the bnef

thc man in chagc,Alojz Troha,in Bloこ ka Polica(house No 7)or ring i● 061-798149.

pcriod when it's open scason to trap thc cdible dormouse orloir r′ ο腸,,a trec― dwell―

It's a long tour if you elect to do thc entire

ing nocturnalrodent notunlikc asquirrclthat

Itis one ofthe nlost magnificent water caves

in thc wOrld and can bc explored by rubber

｀ cavc. Ylou should be dressed warnlly and carry a torch as KriZna(〕 ave does not havc

grOws to about 30CFn and SleepS thrOugh

placc in a valley will the ruins of a nlighty

several nlonths of the ycar..The dornlouse is a favOunte food in NotranJSka(in fact,it was OnCe a Staple),and thC hunting and Cating Of itis tied up with a lot oftradition.According

13th ccntury castlc and a fortificd church.

t0 0ne Slovcnian belicf, the dornlousc is

elcctric lighting.

Lo2, the next villagc, is a picturcsque

A stage of thc E6 Europcan IIiking Trail

lcads frOnl ncar Sncを nik Castle to Mt

Sne2nik(17961n), whose peak remains

shepherdcd by Lucifer hiinsclf and thus dcscrvcs its fate in the stcw or goulash pot.

snowcapped until well into the spring.

Getting There&Away

Sncを nik, about 15km south― wcst of [。 zanも ё e,is thc highest non‐ Alpine nloun―

Sneを nik's isolation l■ akes it tough tO reaCh

I《

taln in Slovcnia and on a clear day you can

SCCお Ver(WCH,aS far aS TriCSte and “ lcnice,theJulian Alps,the Karavanke on the

Austnan border ttld thc POhO]e Massio.

by public transPO■・Without a car,bicycle or horse,you'1l haVe tO take a buS(up tO fiVe a day)o Sttti Trg pri Loを and w」 k4km.The one or two direct buses to Sncこ nik depart at very inconvenient tiines.

Doleniska `Lower《 arniola' is a charming area of

HIGHLiGHTS

:〕

gently rolling hills,vineyards,forests and the

′ iew the Cistercian abbey at StiCna and ・ ヽ

Krka River nowing south― eastward into

its wonderfui mix of archibduほ l styles e Explo陣 the rgin b“ sts of Koё evski Ro9

Croatia.Those whitc hilltop churches with their red tile roofs you'1l sec everywhere once protected the people fronl inarauding ′ I'urks and otherinvaders;theく )nes on thc flat

・ lEnioy an afternoon in the therrnai spa at Doleniske bp‖ ce ・ Marvel at the painね d Knights'Hall at

lands arc ncwcr― built in thc baroquc style

Bre2ice Castle

and painted the mustard colour(`Maria

・ Visit lBo9enも perk(〕 astle and Janez Valkad ValVaSOr'S Study

ThereSa ye■ OW')SO COmmOn in Central

・ Try cycling alongside the Krka Riverroute

Europe.The castles along the Krka are sorne of■ e best preseived in SIovenia as a・ e the

inany lnonastcnes and abbeys. Ylou can't nliss the distinctive `double hayracks' (η 々2″ Jり of Dolettska;they're here in sp“ cs. Many people say thatthe`purest'Slovene is spoken in I)olengska-2『 ound the village

of Ragica,south ofthe town of Krka,to be precise.Butthis may have more to do with the fact that Pnrnoを T'rubar(1508-86),the `father of the SIovenian literary languagc',

was bom here.

Dolenjska is the cycling centre of

lots of chances to do some kayaking or

jevica na Krki md nc征 も cnjemq.Much of the region was prtofふ e SIovenska Kl・ 巧ina, the `Slovenian March'that becarne part of

canocing on thc Krka.11lc Province is also

Caniola(KranJsk→

Slovenia.The E6 and E7 EuropcarllHiking trails pass through I:)olengska,and therc`u℃

in the 13血 century. I)olenJska declined afterthe Middle Ages

famous for its thcrnlal sPas.

くＹＯ﹁Ｚロコ０ロ

and progress only carllc in the late 19th Dolettska was setlcd c=ly on and is well

century whcn a railway line linked Novo Mesto wim LJubljana This wtt cxtcndcd

known forits IIallstattruins andtornbs.espe― Cially near Stiё na, SFnar」 eta and Novo

(via Bela Krttina)to Karlovac in Croatia in 1914.

History

Mesto. 11le Ronlans eventually rnade the area part ofthc provincc of Uplper I)annonia (PannOniaSuperiOr)and builtrOadS COnnCCt―

ing Emona(LJublJana)with smallcr

RIBNICA J3α ・ ′ο ′ ′ '。 I｀

′

4´ a cο

′′●θ6ノ・ ′οS′ε ο ′′ノ θ

hough Ribnica is thc oldest and `ノ rnOst

settlelmcnts at Practorium Latobicoruin

important sc■ lcment of wcstcrn DolcnJSka

(TrebnJc),AccⅣ o(Stiё na)and Ncviodonum (Drnovo).

and just ovcr the hills from thc bOrdcr with NotranJSka,pcople in this region havc tradi‐ tionally affiliated with neither province.As

I)oleniska clustered around thc manv castles

far as llcy are concerned,this is Iく

alonご thc river(eg at Zuzembこ rk and ot。 c)and■ pail centres like sentvid. MOnasteries sprung up at Stiё na, Kostan‐

a forested, sParsely inhabited area witll a uniquc history.

In thc Middle Ages, thc people of

oё evskO,

Ribnica is 16kin north― west ofthe tOwn Of

“

226

DolenJska 227

`・

● ︵日 全 ３ ● ●ｏ“

t

００ ｒｍＺ﹂０バン

2281)olenJska― Ribnica Koё cvJe,another gateway to Koё cvski Rog

days'ol■ 7 am to 2.30 pin(to 4.30 pm on

(sec Around Dole可 Ske Toplicc),and on

ThurSday).

highwayNo6tothcCroatianportofRijcka.

1ヽ

Iova Liublianska Banka has a branch

nextto the Church of St Stephen at ScSkova ulica 9b.Itis open weekdays fron1 8.30 to ll

History

Ribnica 、 vas an in,portant feudal centre dunng the Middlc Ages and was rulcd by a succession of lords,including the COunts Of Ccljc,before thc Habsburgs alⅥ ved」 t was also the ccnt:℃ Of a large rnissionary area dunng tllc chrisuanisation ofslovenia.1_′ ike

neighbounng Notra」 skaandBelaKraJinato the sou■

l‐

east,K:oこ evsko su■ iered gready frOrn

the.T'urkish invasions of the 15th century.

Bonires would be lit atOp peaks like Sveta Ana near Ribnica to wam the townspeople. Among the inhabitan“ of the area at the time and up until the carly days Of WWiⅡ were many Gcrman‐ speaking``ο セックガ」 who hadbecn broughttoI(oё evsko by feudal lords a century bcfore.IBecausc the karst soil

Was too poor to rnakc an adequatc living frOin fa・ ■ ling yearround,the Koこ eval〕 lSup―

plemented their incOrne with woOden prOduCtS● 力α οια,liter」 ly`dry g00ds')

“ “ at hOrne: pails, sifters, tllat they prOduced baskets and ikitchcn utensils.The rnen sold

these products thrOughout thc IIabsburg Empire,and even the advent of thc railway in 1893 did not put an irnmediate end to this iinerant Way oflife.Until、 vcll into the 20th ccntury the sight of the suha rOba pedlar―

am and from 2 to 5 pm(3 to 6 pm on ヽ4ednesday).SKB Banka,atthe ldeal shop‐ ping centre‐ On Iく[。 10dvOrska ulica 9a,has a Cirrus― linked

ATM and opens weckdays

frorn 8.30 anltili noon and 2 1o 5 1prn.

The rnain post ofice is at Kolodvorska ulica 2 opposite the shopping centrc. It is

open iom 8 ain to 7 pm weekdays and On Saturday till noon.

Things to See Ribni“ Cast:e,on hc nl典 tbankofttcBisdca at Ganusovo nabreを je l,was Ongindly built in the 10th ccntury but was translornled and cxpanded over thc ccntt:ries.()nly a sntall scction― a Rcnassance w」 l and two towers ―survivcd WI【 bornbing.'1loday thc castle

houses a sinall ethnograpic co‖ ection showcasing the traditional wood crafts and pOttcry nlade in thc area.More interesting, perhaps,than the articles thernselves are the tools that inade thenl.The castle,set in an attractive scmiciκ ula pttk with memOrial statues and inarkers to Slovenian greats,is a

popular venuc fOr weddings.

The Parish(Church of St Stephen on Scgkova ulica,built in the la■ er part Of the

くＹＯ﹁ＺШコ００

his products Piled high on his back and astaff

19th century on the sitc(Of an earlicr churcll,

in hand ― was as Slovenian as a たοzο ′ ιε

would not be of much interest wclt it notfor

(hayraCk).ヽ400dCarVing“ mains an impo■ ― ant cottagc industlう ′tOday.

the two striking tOwers added by Joこ e Pleё nik

afterWII.As usual,Pleё nik nuxed

evcry conceivable style― to gre■ succcss.

ThC plaquC On the 10uSe OppOSite the

Orientation The town lies in the Ribnica Valley sand―

wiched between t、 vO ridges called ヽlelika

Gora and Mala Gora.The main street, ζeskovaulica,lies on the lcft bank ofthetiny Bistnca River and mns pl籠・ allcl to it.:Buscs stop nearthe Church of St Stcphen.

I｀

SeSikova ulica 26, tells us that the 19th CCntury poCt and patriot France I)reSeren Spcnttwo ycars here(1810‐ 12)in what was then thc region's best knOwn school,attract‐

ing students frOrn throughout S10vcnia as Well as from T

este and Croatia.

The Cultural centre at Miklova Higa (● 861 938),a lovely creain_and― white

information

・ here's a tounst ofice(1●

church.Steki:こ Hlouse(Stekliё kova HiSa)at

861 063 or● 861

glav 909)of sorts in the lZavarovalnica′ ofincc at se61kova ulica 9c.Itis open weck_ I｀

building dating frorn 1858, has a snlall gaiiery.Itis open from 10 am to noon and from 3 to 6 prn.

DolcnJska― Ribnica 229

l Train Station(FЮ ight Only) 2 1deal Shopping Contre& KЮ も 可ar Shop

乃 ●● a“

3 SKB Banka

4 PIZ201a Ha」 Okin

“

〓 １グ ヽ１

13 0ost‖ na Mihe‖ 0 14 Church o,St Stepい 。n

一

ヨ

Ａ ３︽ ＠

12 Bus Stops 15 Toun゛ 0:loe 16 Novo Llubllanska Banka 17 Ste“ i浜ova Hlぬ

Ribnlca

15o

"碑

鮮 品′ ￨

the E7 Europeal Hiking Tr」 l abOut 5kln

R.ibnica is the base for several excellent walks. A we11 lnarked `educational' trail

west ofマ lelike Laζ ёe. A trail into thc Velika Gora

leads nOrth Of■ le town for about 4.5knl up

Ribnicathttleadsto acomfortablemountan

Mda COra ndgeto Sveta Ana,arock wdlor

hut is n10re easilv accessiblc frorn Nova

cli∬ (sた ″α)solne 9631n high with fantastic

Stifta(see the Around Ribnica s∝

views of Ribnica and the R.ibnica Valley. Along the way you'1l pass the entrance to France(3ave,the hilltop(3hurch of St Anne

Special Events

dge west of

tion).

and two huts selling food and dnnk.

Ribnica's inain event is the lE)ry(〕 oods

From the Jasnica recrettiond centre(on the wり to Koё cvje),wherc horses are押 江1-

Pottery Fdr(RibniSk Seme」 Suhe Robe in

ablelorhire,arnore difficult path icads north

I:′

()nё arStVa)held

On the firSt Sunday in Sep‐

tmbct though thc entin3 weckcnd is given

あout 6km tO the juncion with the Ribnica

over to music,drinking and,of course,

Alpinc Trail.This eventuany joins up with

buying and selling.

&

００ Ｆｍ２﹂∽バ＞

Activities

2301)olenJska― Around Ribnica Places to Stay The`)nly accornrnodation near Ribnica isthe

々″ク pension(● 864515)in Prigorica o l15),which is about 4krn south‐ (house rヽ こ east of iRibnica on the road tO Koё evJe. SinglCS With shower and breakfast arc 3000 SI'「 ,doubles

5000 Srr.Prigorica is less than

lkm from Dolenga Vas,a town nOted fOrits Clay pottery and clay whistles.Butifyou've COme this far,continue on another4km Ю thc Jα s″ 」 ια pension(雪

854101)with 27 rooins

in Gortte Lo乞 ine(housc No 26)ncar the recreational centre. Singles/dOubles cost

4800/7200 SIn The Bο ′ r`″

:′

farinhousc(雪

860208)at

housc No 8 in Dane,4km west Of Ribnica,

Selcction as well as handwoven baskets.It's Open weckdays frorn 8 anl tili noon and 4 to 7 pin and Saturday nlorning.

ng There&Around

Ge

Buses run at least Oncc an hour nordl tO Liubliana and sOuth to Iく

oё cvic.′ r'he

bus tO

Sodraを ica is good for Nova Sdfta. Ribnica is no 10nger served by passenger train.ThcGrosupljc― Koこ ev」 elincthapasses

through Ribnica handles freight only

―

rnostly tirnbet ,`10u can order a taxi in Ribnica on l●

863120.

AROUND R:BNICA Novaも tifta

OfferS aCCorninodation in July and August.

The ChurCh Of the ASSuinption at Nova Places to Eat

Ribnica's catering Options are nOt much bctter than its accOinmodation.Onc of the VCⅣ few central,laccs for a mealis Cο s″ ′ ″α lイ メ た ′ ご on ScSkova ulica OppOsitc St `′ Sに phen's Church.Itis Open daily"om 9am

till 10 pm(to 3 pm oniMonday).〃

ar′ ′ たれ is

a,north of the centre at(3orenJSka cesta 4,open Monday to Saturday frOnl 10を un to ll pnl and On Sunday fronl noon to 10pnl. Thcrc's a big nィ てaror supennarket on `′ Klolodvorska ulica,south― west of thc post a piZZC

OfiCe,Open Wcekdays'om 7am to6.30 pm and to 5 pm on Saturday.

Stifta,in he fOOmills ofthe VclikaGora6km west of Ribica,is one ofthc mostimpo ant pilgrlrnagc sites in Slovenia. Cornpletcd in

1671 dunng the CIOunte卜 Rcforination on a

hilltop wherc mystrious lights had been secn,the baroquc church is unusual for its shape― botllthe nave and thc plesbyteryそ 刺 re in the fonT1 0f an OctagOn.・ he arcade on thc west side fronting the entrance accOrnrnO― I｀

dated extra pilgriins On ilnportant h。 ly days.

・ he church proved sO pOpular that the I｀

enclosed stairway On the north sidc was added in 1780 to allow even more of the faithful to reach thc clerestory, the upper storcy ofthe navc.

くＹＯ﹁ＺШコ０ ０

′ I・

・I'he less than salubrious P″ ′(3'′ ″

he interior of the church,、

vith its three

lden altarS and pulpit CarVed by Jurl SkarnOS,is blindingly ornate.Look lor thc g。

Entertainlmlent

at

`r“ Scζ kova ulica 24 has 3001 years of histOry

painting of an aristocratic c()uplc on stained

undcr its bclt but littlc clse.Hcad instcad

giass on tlle north sidc Of thc presbytery.In

brthe mOdem

the COull:yard opposite the iFranciscan■10n_

βお′ο Pap at No 34 ofthe “ sanle strect or the convivial A′ ,2a′ セ s, a `garden bistrO'On the other side Of the strcct “ 江 No 21.

Things to Buy lou'1l sce a fair nunlber of hOuseh01d arti―

aStry(Where the Church kcy is kept)stands a linden tree, planted in the rnid-1 7th century,cornpletc with trec house. DO″ ″α7ンαッ″」Gο ′」(● 866 333 in Ravni

Dol),a guesthOuse 890m up with restaurant and accOrnrnodation, can be rcached by a

CleS inade Of wood for sale in Ribnica and

parked trail heading south― westfrom Nova Sti■ a in about lン ,hours.In winter one of

the odd picce Ofpottcry frOm ncarby I)olenJa

SIoVCnia'S SIlallest ski centres, Travna

Vas.Thc KroSnJarshop atthc ldealshopping

GOra, OperateS nearby with a 200in-long

ccntre at Kolodvorska ulica 9a has a largc

piste and onc T‐ bar tOw.

'シ

I〕

STICNA

ο srcο ど ′′ 295 6プ 。′ r`α cο ′ ′●θ ,ο ′ノ ′ 5θ ・ α ・′ ｀ ■hc abbcy at stiё na(Sittich in Gcrnlan)is

)OlenJska_Stiё na 231

nornic, eduCational an(i cultural centrc in E)olcnJSka.

Thc livcs of thc nlonks wcre disrupted

the oldcst inonastcry in Slovcnia and onc of 'S inost inlportant religious and thc countiう ′

cOntinuOusly in thc sccOnd half()f thc 15th ccntury during thc′ Turkish invasions.Ulti―

cultural n10nurnents. At only 35km frorn LJubliana and within casy walking distance

inately the abbey

Of the train station at lvanё na(:〕

OriCa(pOp

2060), Stiё na can be visitcd on a day tnp

frO11l thc capita1 0r en route to Novo Mcsto,

thc vallcy Of the lowcr Krkva or iBcla Kra」 ina.

Thc lmOnastery、 vas established in l136 by the Cistercians,a branch ofthe Bencdictincs that had been foundcd less than four decadcs

、 vas surrounded by 1■ cd with towcrs.But morc damaging to me cistcК ians was the edict issued by EmperOr JOseph II in 1784 8m― high walls and fo■

many of dissolving all rcligious OrderS― thcnl very po、 vcrful and corrupt― in thc Habsburg Ernpirc. Stiё na was abandoned, and the Ordcr did nOt return until 1898. Stiё

na inonastery has undcrgonc steady

やVII― much ofit paid rcconstruction sinCe｀ ム″

beforc in Francc. Thc monks

ヽ ″orked as lers,folloヽ ving a vow ofsilencc and corn― τ municating only through sign languagc. It

forby the govcrnrncnt― and tOday alnlostthc

fal■

entirc c()nlplcx is again in uSe.11lere arc fiVe

bccallle thc nloSt inlpOFtant rCligiOuS, CCO―

inonks in rcsidencc.

priCStS(inCluding the abbOt)and SCVen

232 1)olenJSka―

Stiё

na

Orientation&:nfOrination l｀1le

Village ofStiё na is about 2.5kin■ orth Of

lvanё na(〕 orica, wherc the train station

C)ther"′ ise, acrOss the courtyard tO the ヽ7est of the Abbcy(二 :hurch,a door leads tO ∼ Stiё na's celebratcd vauited cioister,which

is located.1『 hc clergy and staff at the nlon―

rnixes Rornancsquc and carly Gothic stylcs.

astery will be ablc tO help yOu if you need

Thc cloister,which was Once made of woOd

inう orniation.

with stone cOrncr pillars,scrved as an anlbu―

latory for mOnksin praycr and cOnnected thc

na Abbey

he cntrancc tO the wallcd abbey,an incred―

church 、 vith the monastery's Other wings. ・I'he arches and vaults are decOrated with

ible colnbinttion of Romanesquc,Gothic,

frescocs Of the prophets and()ld・ Ilestarnent

Renaissancc and baroquc architccturc,is on

stOrics as wellぉ anego cal suttCCtS like the Viltues,the iFour Winds etc. Lookう or the

Stiё

′ I｀

the cast side across a srnall strearn.11lis ieads

on to a large opcn cOurtyard bordered On the west by the Abbcy Church and to the noll:h by thc 01d Prclature,a Rcnaissancc building d■ ing iom about 1600.

carved stone faces On the westside that were l■leant to show hurnan elmotions and vices_

upon which thc clergy were cxpccted to renect.

The Old Prelature,oncc the administra‐ tive centrc Of the abbcy,cOntains exhibition

r0011ls on two n。。rs. The c。 llection is a

(])n thc south side ofthc cloister is a typi―

cally baroque n10nastic refectory with an 18th century pink ceiling and decOrativc

hotchpOtch of antique ciocks,paintings,fur‐

swiris and loops lnade Of white stuccO.(I)ne

niture and farm implements rnixed with

floor above is the rnuch impOverished

ChaliCeS,mOnStranCeS and iCOnS.(One par―

library.Ne“ 's Abbey,built in the nlid_16th

ticularly gruesOrne statuc shOws Saint

century by Abbotヽ lolbenk Neff,1■ lns to the ′ west. rhe archcs in the vestibulc on thc

Pell)etua holding her t、 ″。amputated breasts

On a platter)There"c a tw 16

century rlliSSalS and inCdical texts in Latin and (:〕

ernlan,but all the lnedicval documents are

facsinliles Of the originals cartcd off to li‐

ground floor are paintcd with a dense network of leaves, blossOrns, bcrl■ es and ｀ Ylou can gain access tO thc church through a dooぃvay in the nO■ h‐ cast corner birds.

b

es in Ⅵ enna and LJubい a when thc Order Was banned in the 18th century,includ‐

of the cloistct

ing the 15th century S′ ノ ζ″αiイα″ scr,7'′ ,One

WaS built aS abuttreSscd,threc―

■'he Abbey ChurCh,Consecrated in l156, nave Roman―

くＹ∽﹁Ｚロコ００

of the earliest writings in Slovene.Itis now “ kept atthe National University Library in the capital.One r00rn is dcvoted to the accom―

eSque cathedral. 13ut cxcept for the small windows atthe tOp,yOu'd bc hard― pressed to

pliShmentS Of the rnissionary Frcderick

baroque recOnstruction thatt00klplacc in thc carly 17th Century and again in thc inid-18th Century,Just a few decades before the order WaS fOrCed tO quit the plenlises.Apart frol■ thc ornate main altar and ll side ones,the

Baraga(1797‐ 1868),who was born in Trebnjc tO thc south^east.Bttaga taught amOng e ChippeWa(OrOjibWa)Indians of Michigan and cOIΥlpOsed the flrst gramrnar Of theirlanguage in 1843. ・ he video thatthe abbey shows visitors at the stan of their tOur is wcll prOduced and I｀

aVailablC in fiVe languagcs,including iE〕

nglish.

If you want tO drop out of thc tOur carly,

scc inuch of that style tOday tthrough all thc

churcll contains severalinteresting elenlents.

Ook for the Renaissance red‐ inarble tOmbstone of Abbot JakOb Reinprecht(who 11′

initiatCd thC■ rSt barOque“ COnStruCtiOn)in

the north transcpt and the blue organ cup―

you can exit underthe upper￢ c,lver,which

bOard With Cight angels(1747)in the choir

is a few steps to the nonh_east Of the()ld P● elaturc.Just nlake sure you look up as yOu

loft.But the greatest treasures here Te the

pass thrOugh. ′he ceiling is covered in 「

StatiOnS Of the CrOss painted by Fortuna Bcrgant in 1766.The artist signed thc last

ChriSt'S PaSsion and thc LastJudgmcnt.

spclling his surnarne with a`W'.

StuCcos frorn 1620 shOwing scenes Of

Onc― `Jesus is Lald intO the Sepulchre'一

]3)olengska―

Stiё

na 233

1

2ト Stiご

na Abbey

Old P"latuЮ upp。「TOwor

ＦΠＬ

Vautted C olster

ｕ ”︱ Ｉ Ｊ ﹃

Nors Abboy R● bdo「 y&Libは リ α)ufWard Entran`滑

Abbot's Chapel

One ind bu■ ding wo■h alookistheoutr wing Abbot's Chapeiclosing offthe sou■ 1em portion of me cOu■ y″ d.Built in the late 18th ccntury as a kind of rcplacenlcnt to tlle

grandiosc halls seen in palaccs and sornc lager monastenes,it cont」 ns adouble star‐ case and a hall chapel ofinclに

dible lightness

nlodation,scarcely lk■ l south― east of Stiё na in the village OfVir pri Stiё

nl(house No 30).

Its fOur rOOms cOst about E)M30 pcr person

br bed and breakfast.Grotta(meming `COunty')iS a WOrking fam and hOrSCS are r avallableぉ r hic.ofhisto ca note,am」 。 Hallstatt settlement d■ ing from 800 BC

and vivacity

Once stood near the site ofthc tennis court at

The abbey cal be visicd from 8 arn to n00n andfrom 2to 6 pmTucsdayto Saturday and On sunday aftclmoo■ .Guided tours

Crofiia.Grofiia can dso be reached drectlv anё nabonca(2.5km)on

hcSentvi

bus. In lvI1lё naGorta,about 150m wcstofthe ″α 廿ansは iondLiublmskaccsta38,Gο s″ ′ ιヶseⅣ esl∝ 」 Dole■ skafavou testo κがαν

a much appreciative local crowd.

400ノ 200 SIT for adults′ students and chil― dren.[「 he abbey can be very crowded with

visiing sch001 childEn from Ap and Septemberto lヽ

l to June

Tovemben

Things to Buy lhc CistК ianssell many homeinade prod― uctt under thcir own label― bread,honey, wme,herbd tas and liqucurs― in a smdl shop in the old Prelature.It's open Monday

Places to Stay&Eat

tO Saturday f:o■ 1 8 ain to 12.30 pnl and i to

lt is possiblc to spend the night at the inon‐

4Pm(3 pm on Saturday).

ο″s`('7771(Ю )for less than 2000 SIr `sЙ pcr person,but you should rnake

Getting There&Awiay

astclり g“

pnor an・ angeinents with the abbot.

G″ ヵα(● 778 ouse with accom‐

Much mOrecomお ■あleis 141),a19th century farn

stiё

nais scrved by up to 16 buses aday from

Liubljana,butthe numbcris havcd on Sat‐ urday,and there are only threc on Sunday.

００Ｆ同Ｚ﹂∽バ＞

(available in Slovenc,English and Gernlan)

leave at 8.3o and 10 anl, and 2 and 4 prn Tuesdayto Saturday and on Sunday andholy ・ he entry charge is days at 2 and 4 pin. 「

frOm

234:Dole"Ska― Bogengperk Castle Ivanё na C〕 orlca is on thc rail line linking

ubljana with Novo Mesto,Crnomelj and Metlika in Bcia KraJina and Karlovac in

Notc that iBogcnSpcrk is only acccssible

L」

fronl lvanё na Gorica by car or bicyclc;even

Croatia. 1lJp to 14 trains a day lcave the capital,and the 37krn trip to lvanё na〈 ]orica

thC publiC tranSpO■ OptiOnS frOm町 ubljana, 40knl to theヽ ″est, cuic not good. Frcquent trains and buscs go to Litija,but it's still another 7km south to 13ogcnSpcrk― nluch Of

takes about onc hour

it uphill.

BOGENSPERK CASTLE

BogenSperk Castle

About 20km north of Stiё na is IBOgengperk (〕

astic,in inany rcspects the secular cquiva―

lent of Stiё na

Abbey. Here the SIovenian

pOlymath JaneZ Vajkard ValVaSOr(SCe bOXed tcxt entitled Valvasor, Siovenia's Rcnais―

sancc Man)spcnt thc rnost productivc twO

、 vas built in the

Rcnaissance stylc in the early 16th century

by thc aristocratic Wagcn fainil"Who named

thc place Wagensbcrg. VialvasOr bOught BogenSperk in 1672 and installcd his Pant― ing press,cngraving、 vOrkshOp and extensive library hcrc But due tO thc cnornlous debts

decades of his life, 、 vriting and cvcntually incurrcd in geting his ο ンS′ ″αg″ s pub― lρ ― lished, hc was fOrccd tO sell the castlc publishing rヵ “ in り げ ′D′ ο り げ Cα ″ `力 れι οι α(1689), `Gぁ his cncyclopacdic

、 vork on

Slovcnian history, gcOgraphy and culturc.

count

1692.Iilc dicd a year latcr in iKrSko.

The castlc passed[omね mily tO family

DolenJska― Krka Rivcr Valley 235 and the last Owners, the Windisch― Gratz

KRKA RIVER VALLEY

family, lett it in 1943.During WWII,

The lKrka Rlver springs frorn a karst cave

Bogenこ perk was spared thc total dcstruction that befc1l other castics in the area like

TrebnJa Go

L′

ichtenberg, Pogonik and Slatna since

(:lernlan soldiers Were billeted here.

The castlc,with its κctangula courtyad

and three tOWerS(the fOunh burned down in vavasOr's time),was renovated in 1972 and today houses a museurn devoted tO the great

nlan, his work and SIovenian culture. Valvasor'slibrary is now used as a wcdding

south― west of Stiё na, ncar tlle village of

ca,and l・ uns to the south― east

and cast until itJOins thc nlighticr Sava River

near Brcを ice.At 94km,it is DolenJSka's

longcst and most important watcrway and One of the cleanest rlvers in SloVcnia.

If you are continuing on to othertowns in Dolettska an`ジ orBela Kra」 ina and have your

Own transport, the ideal way to go is to follow the road along the lく rka,Which cuts a

hal(complete with a cradlc,as is taditional in S10VCni⇒ ,buthiS dudy,with its beautiful parquetry and palnted cciling,is prctty rnuch

decp and ipicturesquc valicy along its upper

the way he lc■ it when he did his iast

heading for l)olenJSka follow the old IIlcdi―

alchelmy expeninents here.

eval rOad,tOday's routc N9 1(E70).Opt

Other roorns contain examples of Valvasor's cartography and ctching, four original volurnes of his work donated by a ・ riestc in 1993, a printing s10vcne frOnl 「 press similar to me onc valvasOr used(the real onc is in Munich)and thc inevitablc collection of hunting trophics, including a

132kg brOwn bear shotin Koё evski Rog in 1978. The most interesting exhibits,though,are the oncs that dcd with f01k d“ SS(lit‐ SiZC

nlannequins sport costunlcs nlodclled exactly on Valvasor's illustrationS, right ght down to the boots that have neither a nOr a left),SuperStitiOn and f。 lk mediCine

thr()ugh the ages in sIovenia.

cOursc.I11le road is alsocxcellcnt lor cycling.

From巧 ubjana

most buses and the tain

instcad fOr the bus going to:乙 uZernbcrk.

Muilava

′ノ 295 srcοご p 7θ 6 ・ α ′ ηa cο グ′●θ6ノ ・ ′ο ・ ′ο This picturesquc tOWn of doublc hayracks

and beChiVCS(a feW With their Original

paintcd panels)is about 5km south of lvanё na Co

ca and just no■ h of a tributary

Of the Krka,Muljava's cI」 m Ю fame is hplaceofthewritrJosip twOfold:itisthebi r is Juで iё (1844-81),whose r力 ′fθ ″ B“ο″ι considcred thc first full― length noVel in Slovene, and is horne to a snlall C〕 othic church with 15th century■ escoes.

・rhcrc are

口 Ｏ ｒ ｍ Ｚ ﹂∽ バ ン

endless recipes to break spells,red crosses to

ward off witches, votives and good‐ luck chanTls and vials of herbs and elixirs.T'he Knights'Ha:i situated on the ground iooris often used forbanquets and confercnces,and the castie chapei nearthe entrancc has nOW

bccn renovatcd. Autuinn Serenade concerts take place at the castic every sunday in Septenlber at 5 p■1.The sl■ all

entralcc to Gο

s′

ぶ

ν ル タ′ αsο ″ ,a

rcstaurant with a vaulted `ι cciling,is by

the fountain in the courtyard.

Bogenζ perk is open daily in summerfrom 9 am to 7 pnl and in winter fron1 9 aln till sunsct′ I'uesday to Sunday. The entrancc fee is 450/3oo sIT for adultsノ students and children.

The Kra"iC beehiVe has removable bOXeS, creating a se"es of individual hives.

236 1)olenり

ska_Krka River Valley

ThingS to See&IDo.rhe Church of the

caves(see thc Notrattska and Primorska

Assurription lies east ofthe inain road atthc

ChaptCrS),but yOu do getto scc some stalac‐

sta■ l

titcs shaped like ribbOns and fragile-looking

of the village,and thc key is availablc

■Om the WOman WhO liVeS neXt d00r(She'S

`spaghctti',a l()0‐ year― old specinlcn of the

the bell ringer too).Not all of the paintings in the prcsbytery and on the vaultcd archcs are Very CICar― they show Cain and Abel inaking theirSaCrinCes,sylmbols ofthe Apos‐ tleS(inCluding the Winged lion of St Mark)

P“ο′

and St Margarct― but thc fresco dcpicting the death of the Virgin Mary On the sOuth wall is still vibrant.′ he frescoes are signed by Johannes de Laibaco(John OfI_′ jubl」 ana) and datcd 1456.1「 he gilded nlain altar por― I｀

traying hc Assumption dates iom the lae 17th century.

JOsip Jurё

's birthp:ace, a sinall

Sa″ g“ J″ S ainphibian in a tank(See boxed`“tcxtin the“ NotranJSka chapter entitlcd

Proteus Anguinus,thc Human Fish)and a siphon lake dlat is the sOurce of the lく rka Rive■

Fronl the kiOsk lmlarkcd `Pri lzviru', a guide will escort you thrOugh fields to the entrance of the cave and as far as the lake

(190m― a bit mOК ぬan h」 fthe tOtanength). ・ hC dCpth ofthc lake is 17nl,butin winter― I｀

depending On the rain and the snowfall― the lake can nse alrnost as high as the ceiling.

cottage typical of thc ncgion,is wcst of thc

Krka Cavc is Open March to October dally from 9 am to 7 pm.Dunngthe cstOfthe year

rnain rOad and opcn Tucsday to Fnday from 8 am to noon and iom ito 5 pm and afte←

thC hOurs are ll ain to 3 plm.Admission is 200/100 SIT for adultsノ students and chil―

n00nS Only On Saturday and Sunday.Entry

dren. :Bring a Jacket with you as the tenlperature is a constant 9.6° (〕 and the

iё

is 30()/200 SI′ r. In front Of the house is a

bechivc wim paintcd front pancls(′ ′″ sた ι ブ たοれどれjο frOFn thC 19th Century;behind it iS `り an open―air theatrc in a dcll where sOme of iё 's works are staged in surnrncr

Jurё

(I)ne of the n10st popular placcs in

hurnidity is high.

Zu2emberk ・ ′ο ′,9Jθ

o

α■ ´ ′ε ο ′′●θ6∂ ・

lpο

∫ ′ ε Oグ ′ 836θ

Slovcnia fOr fishing is the 9knl stretch ofthe

Once the site Of a mighty fortrcss,oln thc cariv Middle Ages pcrched On a cliffovcrthe

Krka from its ■10uth to Zagradec. about ′ halfway tO zuを enlberk. rhe scason lasts

Muljava.■ 1le ctttlc was complctely“ built

iom March to November and brown and ralnbow trout and grayling abound.But it's

not a sport for the p00ri a daily fishing くＹＯ﹁Ｚ田劇００

licence costs 10,50()S11｀ and athrcc― day onc is 26,250 SI'r.Pcnnits arc available frOnl the

MagoVaC pension (口

'786 049)in Krka

Village fhouse No 13)and the Gostiさ

ёe Pod

Lipo(● 068-87007)in Zuを emlbcrk.

Krka,Zuを emberk is abOut 17km from and the Old walls fOrtincd with round towers in the 16th centu弓 ′but was all but nattencd during more than 20 air raidsinヽ Vヽ VII.(Э ■ly onc round tower has been rccOnstructed,but thc shccrenornlity and might Ofthe placc can stili be scen frOnl the OppOsite bank of the I〈 【 rka.Notc the iron、 vellin the central square. It canle frorn I)vo■ a tOwn to the south― cast

known forits irOnwOrk. Piacesto Eatlfyou're hungry,Gο s″ ′ ″αPrj ('ら ム ぶ ご た scrves up hcalty s10vcnian farc “ in ZeljC(SauSagC Wi like k10baSa sauer― kraut).Itis on the man rOad in thc vinage

Zuttcmberk is a 2ood s,ot frOm which to set

Centre (house No 22)and is Open daily,

Out.The ZuZelmberk Kayak and Canoe Club

exccptヽ Viednesday,to 10 prn.

(奮 87055)in PIapreё c(hOusc No la),lkm nOrth― west of Zuを emberk,can help with

lα

Krka Cave

Activities Kayaking and canoeing arc cxccl―

や nt On thc fast―

flowing Krka,and

rentals and routcs. C)r cOntact the larger

Krka Cave,2km from the main rod andjust

Rafting ClubGimpex(● 83171)near Straを a

West of thc villagc of lll℃

(POd SrObotnikom 12)or Carpe Dicm

bn」

a(〕 onca,ain't

in thC samc leattc as PostoJna or SkocJan

(雷

061-786011)in Krka(house No 27).

DolenJska― DOlenJskc Toplice 237

serics Of cOncens hcld in thc Casie Ccllar

favourite of Austrians frorn around tllc turn ofthe ccntury up toヽ Vヽ VI. Thc complcx was used as a military tre■ ‐

(GraiskaKlet)bctween June and Septcmber

mcnt centre in the 1920s and 1930s and part

Specia:Events Thc Summer Castlc Perflo「 e)arc a mances(Poletnc GrttSke Priredi

Ofit was a Partisan hospital dunng VVヽ 覆I.

″α老 ′α″びだ at Grttki Pla∝ s to Eat Gο s″ ′

trg 5 is a pizzeria with an“outside terracc Overlooking thc lKrka and is open ti11 10 prn

(1l pm on Friday and Saturday)every day, ′L″ οSitS cxcept TuCSday.The Cο S′ ふご `Pο under a rathcr sick‐ looking lindcn in front of

thc castlc atlGraJski trg 4 and is open daly till 10 pm.

the post orice at GraJski trg 28.Up to 10 buSeS a day gO tO均 ublana,With SOmC SiX

to DOlettskc Toplicc(13km)and Novo Mesto(23km),twoorthreetoCmomelj,twO

Ⅵnica,two

to Metlika and one

ЮCc」 a

DOLENJSKE TOPLiCE

∫ ′ 11● θ 68 ・ ′ο Cο ′ 8,5θ α′ a cο ′ within easy “ striking distance ofNovo Mesto (13km to thc no■ h― eЖ t),this thermd“ sOrt .′ 0′ 8θ θ ・

3oplice lies about l.5knl south of

dle Krka River on an undulating steanl called thc SuSica.ヽ /illually cvcrytlling― including

thc two hotcls ofthc thcnnal rcsort― are on or just off the main street,airaviligki ig. Buscs stop Just south of or oppOSite the ipost

Getting There&Away The bus stop is near

tO

Orientation&informlation I:)。 lenJskc・

ofFicc.I:)olcnUSke′ ]oplicc is not on a raillinc.

The helpful staff at the KopaliSki:Dol■ ho“ 1(雪 65230)will alswer dl yourquesions abOutthc spa and surrOunding a・ ea.DolcnJ―

ska Banka has a branch at ZdraviRki trg 8 andis opcn from 8 am tO noOn and 2 to 4.30 p■l weckdays.The post o∬ iceis no■ h across thc car park at No 3.Itis open frorn 8 arn to

5 Pm weekdays and On Saturday till noon.

lι

isthe oldest and one ofthe few rcd spatowns in Slovenia.Located in the karst valley ofthe

Kirka lRiver below the wooded slopes of Koё evski Rog, I)olenJSke 'IIoplice is an excellent place in which to hike,cycle,fish or simply relax.

Therinal Spas llaking the lwatcrs is the s'″

ι

α ″ο″ Of

II)olenJSke'1loplice,and you don't `“have to bc a hotel guestto do so;outsiders pay 100()SI「 fOr the pnvilege. It's actually taken very

seriOusly.Thc warm mineral wacr(36-

Alllough thc curative powers ofthe thcrrnal

but a rccreationd soak is still a lot offun and

springs ,were knOwn as early as the 14th

can avert backache.The health resOn also

century,the first sPa was nOt built until 1658

ofiiers any nurnbcr of other types of therapy,

when lvan VaJkad,a member ofthe arisb―

fr。

cratic Auersperg fanllly,opcned the Pnnce's

magnetiC ther"y(1100 SIT)・ The outdoor thermal p001(拳 οr"′ わαてι″リ is 300m north ofthe two hotels and can be reached through a lovely littie park. Thc unusual catwed w。 。den statues of cuning SnakeS and e10ngated(and ShaCkled)hurnan

Btth.Thc KopaliSki Dom(Bathers'House), cornplete with three pools,、 vas built in the late 18th ccntury when the first chenllcal analysis of tlle thernlal waters was done. Within a century,IE)olenJske'Iloplice had 30 rooms,basic inedical facilities and its very

ln underwacr massage(1800 SIT)to

igurcs suggestthc traditional occupations of

ZdraviliSki Dom(Hcalth Resort House),

this areal logging and woodca:rving. The p。 。 1,which is Open from 9 arn d11 7 pnl in summer,has 27° C water Admission is 800

Stascha Tbplitz,as it WaS then Called(after

S11｀

the ncarby tOWn Of Straを a),WaS a great

weckend.

own guidebook,but tounsm did not really take off unti1 1899 with the opening of the

on wcekdays and 900 SIT at the

●ＯｒｍＺこリバ＞

History

38° C)gushing from lⅨ Юm below the two covered pools at KopaliSki Dom is idcd for locornotivc ailmcnts such as rheurnatism,

238 1)olenり Ska-1)olengske'I'Oplice

￨ル s"′ ar`ュ n,a

lめ '随

“ `"昴'

Doleniske ToPlice ｐ孵 ヽ ヽｏ

▲2

l Tennis cOuns 2 Camping Ground 3 0uldoo「 TholT,aI Po11 4 Pd Tomil● tu Guesh∞ 鉛 5 Go劇 lna Rog

6 Bus Stqp

7 PostOm●o O Bus Stop

90。 1001Ska Banka

13 κop● ￨￨lki Dom Holol &!nfOrmaIOn 14 Chudiol St Anoo 15 Gos1lna Lov∝ 161‖ y Pub

おng′ ο ″

″リ

`15々

く Ｖ の ﹁Ｚ Щ Ｊ ０ ０

Hiking A number of short(under 5krn)ald eぉ y W」 kS can be made ioln Dole可 Ske Toplice, or you nught consider hiking in the virgin forests of Koё

evski Rog,with Baza 20,the

tornbs and iron foundrlcs have bccn

uneamed.Natuκ

lovers may be intercsted

in the`educ誠 1。 nd forest wak'just wcst of Po■ um(2km),which」 so伍 kcs in a smau Cave and the nlins of Roを ck Castle.

Partisal nelwe centre dunngヽ へVⅡ ,or even

Veliki Rog(1099m)郎 your dcstmaiOn(sec

Other Activities

the Around Dolenjske Toplice s∝ tion).

T'he tennis cOunis On the hill nOrth_、

Waks markcd on tte DolenjsL Toplice tOWn nlap includc a 3kin one south tllrough

meお tSt

tO CeЮ vec Hlll(276m),with the

thC Canlping ground can be hil℃

″est Of d for7(X)SI「

r hour betwccn (500 SIT for hotel guests)1膵 〕 7 anland 8 pnl.See the staffat dlc lК 【 opaliSki

church Of the l:I。 ly′ rrinity atoP,affording

Dom aboutrenung racque憾

pleaSant VieWS Ofthctown,and ahike of4km

Daly penni協 (3800 SIT)vdid for ishing in the Suこ ica and the middle cOurse of the

west to Cvinger(263m),whec Hdlst“ t

.

DolenJska― DolenJske Tophce 239

rka, fanlous for its salmon and trout,are avallable from the hotels. The ski centre of Rog‐ Crmoこ nJicc(● 25

1く

250),16km south of Dole"Ske Toplice,is under renovation but may be open again by the tiine you read this.In the past the centre

has opcrated ivc■

:―

bartows on the slopcs of

II Both hotels oficr discountcd wcckend and week-long Packages. SI・

Piaces to Eat ・I'he health resort's rllain restaurant is the

ornately decorated dining roonl of the jDο ″ whec most guests on h」 f

Zブ ″ ανJ′ 赦

Mt G試 ,c江 」timdes of bctween 730 and

or full pension takc their meals.Otherwisc

930■ l betwccn I)cccmbcr to the end of

the choicc in the ilΥ lincdiate area is lilTlited to

March(depcnding on the snowfa11).

two gostilne:thC[ρ ツ (Open t0 1l pm Or midnight),just south `ε of the Gothic Church ofSt Annc(with a ine baroque」 曖r)and the

Places to Stay

sinali bridge over the Subica, and the

■le■ ree― h∝ 愴re sitc(●

″C`Camp Dο ′ Sた ι物′ `″ hcm end of

66012)isjustofftheno■

trg,moκ or less opposite the 乙 iraviliζ Outd00r swiin■ ling p001.■ is open from May to Septcrnber and can accorninodate up tO

Cο s`ι J″ αRο g onthe edge ofthe park neathe

OutdOOr p001 at ZdraviliSki trg 22.Frankly,

thc`IIunter'and the`IIorn'are nluch of a inuchness though the lRog,open dally to 10 α, in a or ll prn, has decent salads. Rα

12o guests.I)aily charges are 500 to 600 SI「

`￨た Maksa rcnOvated village hOusc at Ulica

per person,320 SIT per car and pertent and

Hcnigmma 13,to the eぉ t of■ c centF,“ⅣCS

390 SIT PCr ct霞 ・avan.

dccent pizza and pasta dally until ll pnl.

Prj乃 ″J′

(●

Ifyou've gottwo orrnorc wheels or don't

65023)is a cosy guest―

`協 house behindthe open― alrpool at ZklraviliSki

mind walking 3km.head south― West for

trg 24.None ofthc cight rooms has its own bathroom but all have sinks, and cooking ′

″a Sf″ αッs(曽 Gο s″ ′

rhe per_persOn facllities are available. charge including breakfast is about I])M25. Thc eight_r00m κο′ ″pension(● 65 003)is an even better `sα ded-22α )SI「 per person with bathroonl and breakfast― and thCre'S a Veryl)。 pular 80Stilna on the ground

■00■ But it's in Dolenie S

ce(house No

22),about 2km south‐ cast of Dolettske '1loplice,with no chance of catching a late‐

65390)in Podturn

(house No 28).It's onc of the bcst sm」

1

restaumnts in mc aca and spccidises in

freshwater ish and gaine.It also has accol■ ‐ inodation.

Entertainment The」 Rο g has Slovenian folk rnusic'「 uesday Ю F dayfrom 8 pm.Othcrwisc it's gencrally carly to bed and early to nse in this healthy is a glassed― in bistro in the place.■ he Rο

night bus.

plaza between ``た the two hoteis, though

ThetwO spahotels(奮 65230;fax 65 662) run by the Krka IIcdth Reso■ s company―

Dolcttske Toplce'S young bloods tend to cong“ gatc at the〃 ″ P“ b soum_west Of the

Jぶた ,Dο ″ with 176 bcds at the bur― sta κο ヮα′

Iく

iZidraviliSki trg ll and the three‐ star wi■ 104 beds no■ h across J″ Jけ Dο z′ ″ッ the plaza at No“ 19-share thc same facilities, including two indoor therinal pools, two saunas,a itncss centic ctc.C)fthe two,the Kopali`ki I)om has inuch better rooms and fast stalt at public areas.Singics with breそ 恐【 ′ 8000 SI・ , doubles at 12,200 SI・ T. 「 he Ziraviliζ H Dom has a large restaurant Wi血 I｀

awondcrful paintcdcelling,butitsroolns are in need of upgrading.Singles with breakfast here a℃ from 7(X)O SI「 ,with doubles 10,2(Ю

opaliSkilDlonl atthe start ofPlonirskaccSta.

Getting There&Around There are hOurly buses to lヽ Iovo Mesto between 7 anl and 10 pm and six orseven a

dav to ZuZemberk.Upto hdfa dozen go to

CmOmelj(two via Novo Mesto,one via Semiё ),one

to Maribot two or mree to

Metlika(via Novo Mesto),onc or two to /inicaandfive or six to Liubliana(via Straを a ヽ and ZuZemberk). The health reso■ has bicycles for rent for 400 SI「 per hour

240 Dole"ska― Around DolenJSke Toplicc

AROUND DOLENJSKE TOPLiCE

NOVO MESTO

Koこ evski Rog く :)nc of the nlost pnstine areas in Slovcnia, Koこ evski Rog has been a proじ cted naure area for more than 100 years,and six virgin

θ αε αたOθ68・ ′οSrCOグι8θ θθ ・ α′ ・ ′ο 222,イ θ “ bend ofthe lKl・ ka River, Situated on a sharp

forests,covering an areaofmorethan 200 sq

the inappropnately naincd`New■ own'isthe political,cconomic and cultural capital of DOlenJSka and one ofits pκ ttiesttowns.For

hecta● es,arc Prcserved here.

Slovenes,Novo Mcsto is synonymOus with

T'he region was―

and still is―

so rclmote

and illed with liinestone caves that during /11 the I)artisans,under the carly days of VVヽ ス

thc comlnand of Marshal・ ito,headquartcr― I｀

ed hcre building bunkcrs, workshOps, hospitals and schools,and cven sctting up nting prcsscs.1'he nerve ccntre was the

p

so―

called Baza 20(Base 20),about 10km

the painter BoZida」 akac(1899‐ 1989),who capturedthe spirit Ofthc placeon canvas,and

the wnter Miran Jarc(19α )-42)who did thc sanle in prose with his autobiographical novclノ Viο ν οル .For the travellct lヽ IOvO ``srο Mcsto is an impOrtant gaeway to the histori‐ Cal tOWns and casdes along the lower Kirka, the kast forests of thc GOr3anci Hills to the

sou

‐ east,BelaKttinaandCroatia.Indeed,

west of DolenJSke Toplice,which was reconstructed and turned into a natiOnal

Zagrcb is a lnere 74knl east of Novoヽ ′ lesto

monument a■ erthe war

via route No l(E70).

south‐

During the fonner regimc,Baza 20 was a

favourite `pilgrirnage' spOt fOr inany Slovenes and other,い ugosiavs,and busloads of`the faithful'paid their respects every day.

Nowadays B"ι a 20 is a shadow ofits fOnner self― its two dOzen buildings are rain‐ shackle, the access trail unkelnpt and thc indicator lnaps all but illegible.Still,as an indication of how S10venes view the rcccnt past both under cornrnunisrn and nov7, it's

wo■ h

a visit.

A plaquc erected ncar the site in 1995

Today's Novo Mesto shows two faces tO the wond:thc old Town,which is perched high up on arocky promontOry abovcthelei bank ofthelKrka,and anew towntothe no■ h and south,which thnves on the business of Krka,a large pharmaceudc」 and chemic」 company,ぉ well as Revoz,which prOduces Renault cars and is the country's la・ gest cxporter.

History

diplomatically pays hOrnage to everyone

Novo Mcsto was scttled during the late Bronze Age around 1000 BC,and hellnets

involved in the`n■ iOnd liberatiOn war',pre―

and decorated burial urils unearthed in sur―

くＶの﹁ＺШコ００

Sumably inCluding the mousands ofiDomo―

rounding areas suggestthatMarofHill above

branci(Home Guards)murdered here by the

the 01d Town was thc seat of Hallstatt prinCes during the carly lron Age. ・ hc

Partisans in 1945. Thcre is no scheduled bus service to Baza 20,butitis easily reached by sealed road On fOOt Or biCyCle fronl Podturn, 7k■ l away. FrOnl the Car park and(Gο sr′ ぶ Bαza 2θ `ι (Open 10 anlto 10 pm daily),it'sa15-nlinute

Wdk up a mountain。 江h to the site.The road south to Cmloこ nJicc is unscaled and pК tty Юugh;if yOu're headingお r CrnOme1 0r Metlika,it's easier tO rctum to Podturll first.

The range's tallest pcak, Veliki Rog (1099m)is about 5km to the south― west.The area iS a ipOpular hunting grOund (brOWn

I｀

11lyrians and Celts canle later, and the

Romans maintained a settlement in this region untilthe 4th century AD,when it was then ovcrnュ n by(3ernlanic tribes during the

Great Migrations.

I)uring the carly Middle Agcs, Novo Mesto nourished as a rnarket becausc of its location and later bccanle thc centre Of thc

CSttLS owncd by thc Cistercian abbcy at Stiё na.In 1365,Habsburg Archdukc Rudolf IV ralsed itto the status Of a tOwn,nanling it

Rudolphswcrt.By the 16th century,sOme

bear,Wild Cat,bOar etC)fOr nCh ltalian tOur‐

15,CЮ 0

ists and was a favOunte Of′ ritO and his

Mesto each yea」 r.But plague,■ res and raids rienna t。 。 by the・ rurks On their way t。 、

cronles.

10adS Offreightpassed through Novo

ka

I:)olenJska―

toll on the city and,within a hundred years,

Novo Mcsto's main squarc had becorne grazing land for cattlc. 1)cspitc Novo Mcsto's dcclinc,Janez Vajkard Ⅵlvasor

wdcin his opus動 CIα

″ れjο ′ a that

′ 力 ιDκ りげ `Gあ りげ

it was still `the most rernark―

Novo Mesto 241

Money′ 「 he nlost ccntrally located banks arc SKB IBanka at(Glavni trg 10 and another SKB Banka branch with an ATM at Novitrg 3.'I'hcy arc opcn iⅣ cckdays only frorn 8.30

am to noon and from 2 to 5 pm_A Banka's Novo Mesto branch is at Roznlanova ulica

able town ofthe duchy after Ljubljana'. Prosperity returned in the 18th and 19th centuries:a college was established in 1746,

38just no

Slovenia's first National Hall(Narodni

office is at Novi trg 7 and open weekdays Ю 8pm,S■ urday to l pm and 'om Sunday7am from 9to ll am.Next door at No 7a

Donl)opencd hcrc in 1875 and a railway linc linked the city with LJublana in the 1890ゝ After thc capitulttion of the Habsburgs in

1918, Novo Mesto bcgan to industrialise. 】 BIornbardinents during WI,particularly in 1941 and 1943,severely danlaged the city,

h of Novitrg.

Post a commun:cations Thc inain pOst

iS■ lCkOm S10Venれ ravel Agencies Agencies in Novo Mesto include Kompas(● 321338)at Novi trg 6

1・

ho、 vever

and Emona Globtour(● 323376)at

Orientation Almost everything ofintcrcstin NovolMcsto

Rozinanova ulica 19,both ofwhich arc opcn 缶om 7 or 8 am unti1 4 pm weekdays and till noon on Saturday.

is in the toe―

shaped()ld Town above the

Krka River and dominated by the belfry of the Chapter Church.Glavni trg is a largc, cobbled square― bigger than any in]し jub― lana,10Cal peOple like tO pOint Out―

lined

Bookshop Mladinska Iく ngiga at Glavni trg 9,open from 7 anl til1 7 prn wcekdays and till noon on Saturday,selis regional nlaps and

guides.

witll arcadcd shops and public buildings.A bridgc atits southern end leadstothc suburbs

Chapter Church of St Nichoias

ofKandija,Smihel and Grm.

Pcrched above the OldTown on Kapiteljska

Thc bus station is south― wcst of thc 01d

・1lown

across the lKirka on Tlopligka ulica:to

rcach Glavnitrg,お 1low Kandijska cesta br 800rn and cross the bridge.Novo Mesto has two train stations:thc rnain one about 2kin

ofthc 01d Town and tiny Novo

Mesto― Ccntcr,at the start of巧 ublianska

cesta at thc western edge ofthc 01d Town. FrOIFl here it'S a iVe¨ minute Walk eaStWard to Novitrg,which has been conveitcd into a pedestnan inall andbusiness centre.Another

thc cponyinous saint supposcdly doncl)y tllc bnctian mぉ tcr J∝ opo Tlntorctto(1518‐ 94),it is also mc city's mostimpo■ ant.But wh■ stnkes many visitors lnostis the nave;

it actually doglegs by some 17° C before

350in along ROZFnanOVa uliCa Will take yOu

reaching the main altar. ´ he crcarn― coloured l)uilding to the north―

to(]lavni trg.

west ofthe church is the provost's House,

informdion Tourist Office The touristofficc(● /fax 322 512)is in the town han at Gl四 ni trg 6.Try

to get the SIovenian llounst 13oard's free pamphlet E″ οp``S姥 ′ ″gB`α ″f〃 た ′ι `れ “`1‐ β ag` 71″ αjJs “ ′ 力rο gЙ Dο ′ ′″ セ′ α ソSた α “ mOκ than tWO dOZCn Of κ″ ″れα,WhiCh liStS thc top sights in thc region.

I｀

built in 1623.Ifthe church is locked,you'11 find the kcy hcre. A scction of thc town's medieval wa‖ s can bc sccnjust wcst ofthc church.It dates fronl thc 14th ccntury.

Do:eniska Museum Below the ChapterChurch aboutl(Ю ■ lto the

cast■ Muzaska ulica 7,the Dolcttska Museurn cornplex is divided into inve pa■

s.

● ０ ■ 日 Ｚ ﹂∽ バ ＞

north― wcst

ulica, this(:)othic church is Novo Mcsto's nlost visible historical nlonurncnt.And,with a15th century prcsbytery and crypt,paintcd ceiling,a belfry that had once been a medi‐ eval defence to、 ver and an altFu・ painting of

10 Krka Hdol

“密嘉譜

V腱 r

pLACES TO E^T

OTHER

"'`η

1 0us Stll● n 3 Noい o M03い

Tmh SLttn

00mer

4 Po試 ( kЮ 5 Tobkom SI● venile

」 雲

o饂田鰍b

くＶ∽﹁ＺШコ０ ０

κヨ

"d′

&ntro

Dd● ‖麒a

Mu3oum

出囲躙山.H。" 釉    ｏ

6:辮

ｌη

mり a ViagC ● ´ 化 口 1, lr"輌 `3●

曲 輛  ′ 輸﹄ 耐鋼

2 Loka R03:almnt Trgu

器寵幣曲

２   ３ ４ ５ ０ ７０ １ ２ お ２ 郷 “ ２   ８ ∞ １ 認 “ ”１ ２ ３ １ １ １ １１ １ ２

PLACES TO,STAV

¨ ﹄ 一¨ ¨ ¨ 一 ¨ 呻 ¨ ¨ 一 ¨ ¨¨¨¨¨ ¨

242 Dole"ska― NovolMesto

Pub

′●

Crm

Novo Mesto ヨ u“ ′ `a10,リ

`ト

DolenJska― Novo Mesto 243 「 he oldcst building,which once belonged to I｀

the knights of the'Ileutonic Order,houscs a valuable collcction of archacological finds

uneanhed in the southem suburb ofKaldija in the late 1960s.'The rnuscum is divided into

Sunday frorn 9 ain tili noon. 1)uring the winter,weekday hours are 8 am to 4 pm,on Saturday 9 am to l plTl and on Sunday 9 al■ till noon.Th.e13oを idar Jakac House is open

｀ ■uesday to Saturday frorn 9 anl to l plll

four perlods:the Neolithic and Bronze ages;

(from 10 am on Saturday).Entrance to the

the H」 Ist■ t(cTly lron Age)period;the 《eltic era;and Rornan I)olenJSka.

I)olenJska Museum is 300/150 SI′

:〕

I1lou can't rniss thc IIallstatt hcinlet dating

ous axc blows

I. for

adults/students and children or 500/300 SI「 for both the muscum and● c Boを idar Jakac

House.

'oin at the800 tOp,the BC with finetwo bЮenoH■ nZe Situlae(Or pailS)

from thc 4th century BC embossed with battleそ md hunting scenes,and the Celtic CeramiCS and jeWellery(partiCularly the bangleS Of turquoiSC and dark― bluC glaSS) frol■

Beletov Vrt.

TheDoleniskaGaneryhoststhcBiennial ofSIovenian Graphic Art,held during even‐ numbel℃ d years(the 4th Biennale was in 1996,the 5th in 1998 etc),but occasionally accepts non― Slovenian guests.・ I｀he gallery's

permanent collection includes regional works from the 16th to 20th ccnturics. (1)ther collections in the complex includc one dcvoted to thc Libcration Front and thc

c)ther sights Novo Mesto's otherinteresting buildings aFe mostly on orjust o∬ Glavni trg.At No 6,the neo― Renaissallcc tol″ n hall,out of stcp with thc squarc's other arcaded buldings,osten― tatiously c」 Is attenlon to itsclf at dl hours

with its“ Is and odd fa,ade but cspcciany at noon, when an ear― piercing siren is sounded.The co江 of`rms on the frontisthat of Archduke RudolfIV,the town's founde■ South ofthe town hall on F'ranё iSkanska ulica is thc Church lof St Leonard,which was o ginally built by Franciscan inonks iccing the・

I｀

urks in 13osnia in 1472 but with othicノ oorish gablc addcd

Partisans during WWII and a small but excellent ethnographic co‖ ection with fam implements,commemorativejugs prc― sented at wed(lings,decorated hean■ shaped

an unusual neo‐

honey cakcs and icons painted on glass.'Ihke

impoinant 12th century incunabula,aure now

alook atthe dmostlifesize wooden sLtue of

in LJubljana.The Gymnasium bundcd by Mana Thc薫 )sa in 1746 is to the no■h at

a Frcnch soldicr fronl thc nlynan IIovinccs

(:〕

1ヽ 4【

in the 19th century, and the Franciscan m(DnaStery.■ hCl■ OnaStCry library'S C011eC― tion of rarc l■ anuscripts, including inany

Jenkova ulica l. 'Iloday it houses a nlusic school,a public library and the provincial

Jakac House about l()Om east at Sokolska ulica l. The peripatetic and proliic Jakac

archives. ′ rhe Only histOrical structure OfnOte On the

visitcd dozens of countlles in the 1920s and

nght bank of the lKrka is Grm Castle, a

1930s,painting and skctching such diverse subjects as Parisian dance h」 ls,Scmdina―

rnanor house at Skalickega ulica l,with an omttely stuccoed central h滅 1.A Habsburg stone caglc and a socialist scal with sheaves ofwheat,grapes and a hanllner and sickle on the outside rcveal its latcr incarnations― a public building from the late 19th century and then an agncultural school.It contains sorne governrnent onFices but is still in a

vian port towns, African villages and Amencan city skylines.But his best works

are of iNovo Mestoi nlarkcts, people, churches and runable‐ turnblc wooden houses clinging precariously to the banks above the Krka.Onc unusual work is the ainlostsulTcal Oグただ″ ″ α″ο″ `侭 `ν `′ face befOre a paned curtain. 'Of a man hiding hiS

In sunllnct thc lDolengska Museum is

gcncral slレ ltc of disrepait

Activities

open Tuesday toiFriday from 8 anl to 5 pnl,

Boating The Luna bar(● 321612)rents

on Saturday frorn 10 anl to 5 prll and on

canoes dunng the surnrnerinonths,but don't

ＵＯＦｍＺ﹂∽ス＞

T'he inuseum alsoadininistersthe Boこ idar

era.It was used as a lbechive.

244 1)olenJska― Novo Mesto expect tO get very far along the lKrka frorn

this pOint;you can only paddle about 2kin

upstream and 200m downstream. MIorc serious canocing and kayaking are avallable 9km south― west on me Krka at me Rafting

hotel mn by the Krka group.Singlcs with shower and breakfast are ll,000 SI・ 「

,

doubles 14,800 SIr.Thc lく rka has a decent restaurant and a pub opcn dll 10 pm.

Club Gimpex(● 83171)neFr Straを a■ Pod P:aces to Eat

Srobotnikonl 12.

Thc Pι 絞:ι ″ ′ ακ′ α,tucked away in a cellar at

F:ving The Novo Mcsto Aeroclub(● 321 107)at PЮ ёna,5km west of Novo Mesto,

I)ilanё eva ulica 7,is open fron1 9 ain to 10

offers sightseeing flights over Novo Mesto andthe Iく rkaVialley in Cessna 172s and Piper 28-Waniors daily betwccn 9 anl and 7 prn.A 15-ininute night costs 42α )SIT for three passengers.Flying lessons are also availablc.

weekend.

α α.On the count threc catcncs and a睦 ッ “ sidcw」 k ground Πoor thcre's a ca116 witll

■lc

terracc,a pizzena and an iceκ reain parlout

alrfield isjust over a kilometre from the

centre ofPreё

na,whichisservedby bus iom

Novo Mesb.

pnl on weckdays and till inidnight at the G。 ∫ ″ぶ dα ″ α77g“ ,me`Inns On the squ`re'

at Glavnitrg 30,havc no accorninodation but

tJpstairs the`classic'1℃ staurant has set-lunch inenus fron1650Srr.The self― servicerestau‐ rant on the salぼ le floo■ with Pleasant seating

Horse Riding Thc Novo Mesto Sport Equestrian Ccntre(● 28166)in the village ofCeSё aVas,about3kin south ofPreё na,has IIolsteiners andた abians for nders of all levels. lYlou can ride on any day, but you should bOOk irst.′ rhere's alsO hOrse nding atthe St・ uga Riding Cent,c(●

75627)nc`r

on a nalTow balcony ovcrlooking a court‐ yard,is rnuch cheaper

For bcttcr(and more expensive)food, restaurant at Cvelb`ur」

g

β

head deeperinto lle Old Town forthe

“ eva ulica 7,birthplace

of BoZidarJakac and once an impo■ ant spot おr a StS ald WriterS.Try ku」 a Obaa Z

cast(sce the OЮ ёec Castlc,7km tothe nor ―

劉 dovimi

OtOё eC SeCtiOn).

WhCat gЮ atS)Or peё eniCa in Ze」 e OratWurSt

zganci(chに ken stw wim buck_

With SauCrkraut)a10ng Wiぬ

a glaSS OrtWO Of

Piaces to Stay

C,viё ck,

thc uniquely Slovenian light rcd

The∝ colnmodation optionsin Novo Mesto

winefromDolenjska.There'sgadensc

a℃ not gl℃ at and can be quite expensive.The C10SeSt“ ″ ″g gκ )“ ″グS are■ OtOё eC and

available in the wanner mon■ s.Expect to pay about 1250 SII'for two courses and a

ng

く︼の﹁ＺШ劇Ｏ Ｑ

Dole」 ske“Toplice,7km and 12km away respectively.Emona Globtour has a few α′ ′ οο″S On its books,butthey are quite ′″ν “ oln town. a distancc■ A′ α″″″J Rα ν らα″(● 3427(Ю ),aね mily―

drink.

run guesthousc at Srnreё nikova ulica 15-17

arn till lnidnight.French workers at the

¨Юssthe Krkain Kandija,has ive modem,

Rcnault factorv frequentthe Cο

spotlessly clean apartments with kithen and

sOuth_west Of‐

two rooms for about E)M30 per person.It's

ulica 14 ooっ ositc the Church of St Michael

a very quiet area,full of trccs and pcoplc

in Sinihel.It's not cheap,but ifthc」

walking thcir dogs. Farther aield (about 4kin north― wcst ofthc 01d Town),thc И′Jσ pension(● 321822)誠 巧ubljanskacesta51

give the thumbs up,itjust has to be good. Buё a・ is opcn wcckdays to ll pnl and till midnight on Fnday and Saturday.

charges I)M50/80 for singles/doubles. ′ he only other placc to stay in Novo Mesto

VVじdnesday and Fnday sclling fnlit and veg―

I｀

itsclf is rヽ

e

κκ た￨(● 323711;fax 313(XЮ )江

Tovi trg l, a renovated 50‐ roorn business

Lο 滋7,at Zupanё iё evo sprchttdiSё e 2,is on the Krka with restful views across the

rivcn'The speciality here is fish,particularly trout,ald the restaurant is open d」 s′ Jぶ

ly from 9

ご 19ン dα ″ lι

.

the bld TOwn江 ぷmihelska Fス

″cο z′

`α

1・

here is al outside′ ″ α二 た

`r on Monday,

etables on iFlorJanov trg in the ccntre of tlle

01d Town.

DolcnJska― Otoё ec 245 Entertainlment α′ιιれ′ ぁ 321214)at PreScrnov `(● “ a cincma(screenings trg 3-5 “ has a 4,6.15

■'rainUpto 14trainsadayscrveNovoMesto

The c“ J′

from Ljubljana(75km; 1'4 hours)via

and 8.30 pm)and sponsors occasionalthcat― ncal and l■ usical perflormances.Ask the stafF abOutsummer cOnce■ s held in tte arium Of the Provost's House. Likc the province of 13cla lKralina to thc

continucontoCmomelj(32km;451■ lnutes) 帥d Mctlika(47km;onc hour),wherc you

south,Dolcttska has a tradition of folk l■

lvanёna(〕 orica and'I｀ rebnic.Manv of thcsc

can nlake up to three connections a(iay for

Karlovac in Croaia.To rcach anywhcre else of iinpo■ ance in SIovenia by train from Novo Mesto,you'll have to go to Ljubljana.

lusic,and■ ycrs and postcrs tround town

arc always announcing folk enscnlblc pcr― forinanccs atinusic h」 ls and cultural ccntrcs

in neighbounng towns and villages.

OTOё EC

″ 885 。α ´ α￠ ο ●θ68・ ′ο ∫ ′ ● ο ′´8222 ・ 2ο ′′ The castle at Otoё`′ec(ヽ 石 ёrdl in German),

(:〕 lavni tg has a numbcr ofsmall pubs and ca“ s(eg κ′ιИグα tt No 14)with outside telTaces that“would be pleasant in the wainn

occupying a tiny island in thc llliddlc of the

■lonths if the traffic through the square

plete foltresses.Unfortunately,soineone else thoughtso too and turned itinto an upnlarket

wasn't so hcavy. Lcave thenl bchind and

Krka Rive■ 7km north― east of Novo Mesto, is one of SIovenia's loveliest and nlost corn―

head br L“ ″αtt Pugljeva ulica 2 or βο″″ behind Kandijskacesta4,two outdoor caf6pubs on opposite sides ofthe rive■ ・ he lL′ una,

and very cxpcnsive hotel. 13ut the area

witllits lovcly back garden and opcn dally to ll pm,is lnore pleasant,but the Boter h`澪 better vie、 vs ofthe()ld'1lown fronl across the

soinething ofa recreational centre,and there

I｀

around C)toё ec, the gateway to the lower

Krka and thc Posavjc κgion,has becomc is a wide choice of accornlnodation and activities.

Krka.They could be straight out of a Jakac Panting.

History

b nextto the BК )g restau― `as C′ “ “ mnt on Cvelbar]eva ulica and the κα 滋1し P“ ε pub tt the eぉ tern end of Novi trg opposit Rozmanova ulica 32 are dccent latc― night DlaCeS fOr a d nk.Another recommended venue is the βJs′ ′ り Stο ′ フリο″ Opposite the

Thc irst castle at C)toё

TheAれ グ

DolenJska Muscunl on Muze」 Ska

ulica.It's

Getting There&Away BusiBus service to and from Novo Mesto is good.There are very frequent departures to DolenJSke Toplice,OЮ ёec,Sen」 ema and SInar」

eSke′ ]oplice and at least 10 a day to

during thc Mongol onslaughtin the mid-13th

Century(Or eVen a CCntury later during the WarS With thC HungarianS),a Canal WaS dug on the south sidc,thercby creating an artin_ cial island. ■'he present structure probably lost its military signincancc dmost as s。 。n asit was buntin me c″ ly 16血 ccntury since

thc frontier had movcd southward by then. In 1560 thc castlc was purchased by lvan Lenkoviё ,the commander of thc Vojna

KraJina(Military March)who went on to dctat the Turks at Kostanjevica na Krki thrcc ycas l江 ei

Brcttce,KostanJ,vica na Krki and巧 ublana (Via Trebtte Or ZuZemberk).Other dCStina― tions scrvcd frorn Novo Mcsto include:IBled

Orientation

KIも sko(six),Manbor(one),Metlika(six),

The -is ary and

PCё na(threC),Trebtte(eight)and ViniCa Кe (fiVe).YOu Can dSO reaCh Zag“ b On

nckety wooden bndge that probably should not handic cars.Cheaper accornmodadon is

buscs a day.

available up thc hill a few stcps north ofthe

(One buS a dり ),Celje(One),CmOmelj(SiX),

Koper(two or threc),IKranjska Gora(two),

castle― now the posh Grad Otoё ec hoに lkm east of()toё ec village on a second― road running parallelto route No l(E70) the river lピ lou reach the castle via a

1

り Ｏ ｒ ｍ ２ ﹂∽ ス ＞

opcn daily till ll pin.

ec alinost certainly

stood on the right bank of the rivct But

246 DolenJSka―

Otoё ec

′

bridge and across the nlain road. 「 he canlping ground is south‐ west of thc island on the l・ ight bank.

・ hc ccntrc,which is housed in anothcrrncdi― eval castle complcte with chapel, is opcn fro口 n8to ll arn and 5 to 9 prn cvcry day, I｀

cxcept'「 uesday.'1lo getthere from the castle,

inforination

75 170 or● 321911)can provide infornation

staffatthc rcccption of hc castlc hotel(●

cross the second bridge,walk east for 60〔 )in On thc lpaved road anci thcn another 90()nl north on the unscalcd one.

ec and help With equiDnlent rCntalS.1110u Can ChangC

Piaces to Stay

mttcy he■ ,lt he receptiOn Of thc Spざ ■

All thc accoril■ lodation listed here shares thc

aboutthe recreationd facilities atOtoё

hotel,at the carnp site or at the post office in (])toё ec village.

1lough you probably won't be staying atthc

castle hc)tel,therc's■ o harnlin having alook around this llistorical sitc andperhaps having a drink or cup of coffee at the tctTacc caf6 in

the courty額・ d if the weather is warm.The

castle, which contains elernents of late Gothic and Renaissance architecture, con― sists oftwo wings connected by awall.'rhere vcry■ ick are four squ■ ,roundcd towers wi wans and nal.。 wl。。pholcs at cach cnd. Activities (:)tOё eC(and the lKrka Valley in general)iS a cycling centre.′ rhe tennis centre by the spOrt

hotel has bicycles and nlountain bikes for rent for 500 SI■ 'per houn′ he tennis centre

「 hasthree indoorcourts(1800to 30(Ю SITper hour)and six outdoor ones(500 to 8(Ю SIT) aS Well aS a Sauna and StCam rOOm(9∞ SIT) くＶの﹁ＺШコ０ ０

and itness centre(6(Ю ′ I｀

Tlle O′

323 413. ο c carnp site is on a two― hectare

strip ofland`￨′mnning along the right bank of the lKrka and can accornrnodatc 20()people.

OtoCec Castle l｀

s`Inle con“ ctnurnbers:● :321911;fax

SIT per hour).

he camping ground rents canoes,rowing

bOatS and raiS fOr uSe On the K[rka.(The beSt

areas for rowing are downstreanl frorn

´

Ilo reach it from thc castic,cross the second

bridgc,tum left(east)and walk br 3(Ю m.It has its own tennis and pool and theR3's a `beach'」 ong thc rivc■ 1)any chargcs arc 500 SIT per person,250 SI「 per car,3α )SIT per tcntand 350 SI「 per caravan.Itis open from

MIay to ScPtembcr An unattractive area no■

h of thc castle

includes theル ο′′hotcl,a COnCrCtC―

and―

giass box■ GraJska cesta 2 with a cocktal bar,disco and78 rooms.Singlcs with shower and breakfast are 9500 SI・「 , doubles arc 12,40()SI′ r.Thc b“ ″gα Jο ",s nearby in thc cornplex cost 5(X)0/9000 SI「 .

The Cra′ 0ゎ d′ ιis one ofthe most attrac‐ tive and luxunous hotelsin Slovenia.Its two

dozcn roorns arc enornlous and havc pc,1-

ished parquet floors,()ricntal carpets, marble‐ toppcd tablcs and large baths.But

don't expect alithatto come cheap―

singles

with bath and breakfast are 15,400 Srr, doubles 21,000 SI′ 「 If vou wantsornething a bit more rural and .

farinhousc(雪 85

Struga.)The pe← hour fce is 600 SIT. While not as rich as the upper Iく rka,the

affordable,the S′

rivcr around(Dtoё cc is a popular fishing spot and nlore than likely will yield a couple of

No 15)about 2km south of Otoё ec village

Pikc,pcrch or catp.Fishing pennits from the hotei cost 2800 SIT per day.

for about l)M35 per person for bed and

The St・ uga Riding Centre(奮

r“ gα

656)in the village of Sela pri Rateを

u(housc

haS dOubleS and tnpleS(SOme With kitChen) bκ akist

75627)on Places to Eat

the nght river bank about l.5km no■ h― cast of the lC)toё cc canlp site has a number of horses avallable for dressagc,cross― country ding and coach cxcursions.()ne hour of riding is I)M22,lcssons are I)ヽ 426 per hour

The Orο ご `c restaurant north ofthe castle has alargeterrace thatis very popularin surnrnen lf you can't handle the crowds,ぼ y the small

and a half― hourndein an old coach is E)M35.

Riding Centrc.

eatery atthe carnp site orthe one atthc Struga

DolenJska― Around Otoё ec 247 ・ he (31α s′ ′ ` atrestaurant and the srnaller κ″な力′ ∫'″α′ ′ thc Grad Otoё ec hotcl will

for 5kin south― cast to Ve:ike Brusnice, famous for its cheries and chcrry festiv」 in

bc out of rnost pcople's Pncc rangc,but thc ancient stonc walis, chandclicrs and ganlc

Gospodiё na(3.5km).

I｀

spring,thcn to GabrJe(4.5km)and on Ю

and ish specialitics make them wo■ h a こMARJESKE TOPLiCE 86θ・ ● ′ t,α ο ο d`● θ 68・ ′ο srcοZ′ ・ ′ο ′ノ

splurge.

llle D」 ∫ た ο′ αO″ι `た

``at the Sport hotel is

opcn till latc on・「 hursday,F

day.Thc〃

day and Satur―

Jr Casi″ οOゎ dι ε(雪

75700),with

blκ kjack,pokeL American roulete and slot nlachincs,is open frorn 5 ipni to 2 arn daily.

Ge

822θ

lf an thtt cviё ek wine is tahng its t011 0n

Entertainlment

nq There&Awav

you,consider taking a brcak at SinarJeζ ke Tloplicc,a spain a s■ lall,lush vallcy about 5krn north of()toё ec.While it doesn't havc anything close to the history or atmosphere

of Dolcttske Toplicc,25km to the south― west,it has lovely grounds and nlore than cnough facilitics tO keep you busy and help

The buζ linkingNovo McsЮ md SmtteSke lloplicc stops at thc bridge lcading to thc

rccharge those batteries.

castlc about oncc an hour on wcckdays but

the site ofthe spa wcκ uscd by loc」 people

lcss frequcntly at thc wcckcnd.

′

I'he thrcc natural pools that once stood on

as far back as the 18th century and wcrc collectively known as the Lake Spa.I)evel―

AROUND OTOCEC

opment did not come until 1950,when the

「 here are a couple of excellent excursions I｀

■rst hotel was built,but even that remained

accessible"om Otoё cc on foot,mountan

a rather exclusive facility reserved for the

bikc or cvcn horscback.′ rhe arst is to thc

″οれι″た″r“ ″ α (COmmuniSt hOnChOS)With

vincyads ofTrSka Gora(428m),which c`m

りling hemS・ Only in the lttt deCme haS Smar」 CSkc Ъ plice redly madcit on the m叩 as a serious therapy centre for those with

bc rcachcd by road and trailfrorn Maё kovcc,

about5km south― west

of C)toё ec on the rnain

road to Novo Mesto.The walk(or nde)is quite straightforward fronl there.F.ollow the road north for lknl to Sevno and then con―

tinuc along the winding track lor anotller 2klΥl to′ rrSka(3ora

and thc Church of St Mary.From hcc merc tte wondcrful vicws Krka Valley.Below the church is Krkin IIrain,a100-ycar― old winc ccllar open to groups only. Farther a■ cld is Gospodiё na(828m)in

orientation a lnformlatiOn ・ hc spa complcx and its hotels are nortll of I｀

me tily vmage ofも mtteskc Toplicc;thc road to it passes athernlal steanl and a pond with giant waerlilies.Buses stOp in frOnt and opposite the(]ostilna Prinovec,a restaurant and grocery store..The postoficc,whcre yOu

the GorJanci Hills and the Dο

can change inoney,is nearby and opcn frorn 8 anl to 5 pnl weekdays and tili noon on

Pα ′ι ″ ζ ′ da″αGο r7α ′ tc′ み(●

Saturday.

И″たα 24 920 “ or● 23

391),a mountain lodge with a restaurant and

accommodation,open daly"om iMay to

Activities

September and at wcckends only the rest of

Thc spa counts four Pools fed by 32°

thc ycar.Gospodiё na and the lodge are about 13knl south‐ east of C)toё ec in the shadow of

TrdinovVrh(1178m),the highestpeak in thc orJanci. This dcnsely forested area is (:〕

known for its rnushrooins and a `rnagic spring'in which irst― time visitOrs arc sup‐ posed to、 rash.The route from C)tOё ec gocs

C spring watcr nch in carbon dioxide and minerals. Two areindoorones atthe hotclconlplex and used fortherapy.Nearby is a sauna,solanurn and modeni gyrn. ′ hclargcroutdoorpoolisbelow thc spo■ s I｀

centre.Visitors not staying atthe spapay 801〔

sIT(9(x)slr at weckends).Because the

)

りＯＦｍ２﹂リス＞

ofthc GorJanci Hins,Koё cvski Rog and the

cardiovasculそ I・ problems as well as pronlot‐ ing relaxation ald a hcalthier lifestyle.

248 Dole"ska― KostanJcvica na Krki baSin Ofthe Older(anCi Srnaller)p。 。i nCarby

is made of wood,thc watcr tcmperature is 2°

C warmeL

The spo■ls centre has four clay tennis courts available for hirc(500 to 700 SIT per hour)and racqucts can be rented.(E)ne ofthe courts is covered and illunlinated at night. ・ herc arc also facilities for table tennis, I｀

minigolf and lawn bowls. ′ hc wine― growing areas surrounding ′ SInarJegke 「 oplicc nlake for excellent walking and there are trails and f。 。t pams south― west to Trこ ka Gora(sce Around I｀

OtOё eC)and nOrth― CaSttO VinJi Vrh.

7.30 am to 7 prn and on Sunday frorn 8 arll

til noon. ・ he restaurant at the Dο に ι″ “ pension is open every day,cxcept・ 「 uesday, I｀

fronl 10 am ti11 10 pΠ

Ge

l.

ng There&Away

Bus sein′

ice is ven/frecuent to Novo Mesto

and()toё cc,Smar〕 Cta and Breを ice.Thel℃ 's alSO a lcast Onc bus a day to町 ubljana,

Mokronog and Sevnica. Getting Around The sports centre and thc l)omen pcnsion rent bicycles for about 300 SIT per hour.

Piaces to Stav Alithe accorninodation at SrnarJCSkc lloplice

has the same nunlbers:'73230;fax 73 107. 1｀ he J― shaped rnain cornplex is divided into threc hotcls.Thc rbpJた ι,dating frOm 1950,is normally rese:wcd for long― にrm guests with more senous mcdical problems. ・ he κ″ たα,the midcllc scction built in 1983, costs from 8300 SIT Der OCrSOn With full ″αりιrα ,tie ngwest(1991)and bOard.The`ダ′ I｀

rnost attractive of the threc hoteis, costs 10,700/17,600 SIT for singles/doubies with

full board or 9500/14,900 SIT for bed and breakfast.Some ofthe rooms a the Krka and the Smar」 eta have smali balcOnics with views of nearby hilis andう orcsts. A chcaper altenlativc to staying atthe spa ″pension(壼 73051)in is thc 18-room Dο ″′ Druを inska Vas(housc No l),about l.5km

KOSTANJEViCA NA KRKl

αε οど ι●θ 6θ 8・ ′ ο sた ο ′ Jノ ノ ´ ・ ′ο ′765。 α´ `∂

Situatedonanisletjust500mlongand200m

widc in a loop of me Krka River,Kostan‐ jevica is Slovenia's smancsttown.And with a charter that datcs back to 1252,it is also one of its oldest.

KostanJevica was an important commer― cial centrc in the Middle Ages and even had

its own mint in the 13th century called MIoneta Landestrostensis(KostanJCVica is still ca‖ ed Landstrass in German).Its coins were in circulation as far as what is now wcstcrn Romania.In 1563,aftcr repeatedly attacking the town,the Turks were defeated by lvan Lenkoviё ,supreme commander of

eSke 1loplice. Singles/ doubles are 4000″ 000S11l The Domen has

the Military March. KostanJCVica's giory days have long since ′ passcd,hOwever, and today the to、 ″ n is so ・ sieepy it is alinost cornatose.■ hough it is

a tennis court,a football pitch and a decent

dubbed`the tnice of Ddenjska'by the

rcstaurant.

tourist industry and undcr full protection as a cultural inonumcnt, rnost of its buildings arc in very bad condition.「 Fhc only lonc in

south― east of Srnar」

′

P:aces to Eat Most gucsts takc ali thcir rncals at thc hugc hotcl rcstaurant,1)ut if you arc visiting or

thc arca thatsccrnsto be getting any attention

not staying on a fu11-board prograrn,try

south ofto、 vn.

the■ ′′ぶたα COmp19X・

Still, KostanJevica is an imlportant art centre and its location is inagical. If you don't rnanagc t。 ‐ nag down a helicopter t。 vicw thc town fronl on high,at least take a

`r cenar rcstaurant in the

In SrnarJeζ ke 'Iloplice village, Gο

srj′

″α

PrJ″ οッ ′c is a pleasant,inexpensive placc fOr

a ineal with an outsidc gnll in sum:ner and hc g″ ε ソsrο ´ 「 `′ `

is the former Cistercian monastery l.5km

look at thc photographs of the town in οッ

ο′ π ノン

ιA」 ″(Zalottba Mladinska

open to ll pm orrnidnight.・

S′

ncxt dooris open Monday to Saturday frorn

`″ `力 Knjiga)by Mttaを Kmccl et al.

j´

Ddcnjsh― Kostanjevica na Krk1 249 Orientation&information ■lough mostofKostanje ∽ 's hsto ca d」 l協 ar)on the island,some others and things of

sionist's work, including the wonderful e Golup Ga‖ ery

Bα ′ み′′ s senes,江 the Joこ

back overthe b

a morc Pracical natuH3 are on the in`uinland

to■ e

nordl―

two snlall b

west or southtast,reached by dgcs.Buses stop opposit thc

Pod GorJanci guesthouse and rcstaurant.

Banka has a brmch at (1)raを nova ulica 3.It's open weekdays frOnl pnl and on Saturday fron1 7.30 post ofice is at Kainbiё ev trg weekdays fron1 8 2un to 5 prn on Saturday.

Walking Tour To one is going to get lost or tired on a walking tour of Kostalり evica― some 500m

T｀

up one stl℃

et and 500m down another and

you've seen the 10t.

renOV“ On).■ le pttnter and grap

b

dge

iom the bus sЮ p and spli■ ing thc st“ et in two,stands the Church of St NIcholas,ainy late Gotht smcmЮ dttingお m“ late 16th ghtし C010ured feSCOCS h tte

po

on of his woよ he“ in Kostanievica.

Continuc」 ong OraZnova ulК a,p`ssing a lovely′″― グ s2cル house tt No 24,to the `‐ PariSh ChurCh Of St JaFFleS,a13th ccnmry

IR,omanesque building at thc island's no」 し ll‐ wcstcm tip wim a mostly b証。quc inに or. Abovethe carved stonepo■ 」on the western side,youcanjustmよ e out geometric shapes and dccorative plants and trees.On the north nsing froln the t。 1■ b. Talcev ulica,the island's othcrstreet,leads south‐ east back to StiNicholas Church and is

lincd with crurnbling but quite attractivc `folk ba・ oquc'houses.About

hdfway down

preSbytery of scenes from the 01d and New

on■ le

TeStamentS Were pdntd by JOを e COriup

Pharrnacy..The birthplace of Joこ

(1907-32).You can sce more of mis cxpκ

is fa■ her」

2ah′ `α

"η

c atist

Ⅵ adlmjr Lamut(1915-62)completd a lttge

side is a 15th century depiction of Jesus

On Kambiё ev trg,ac,ossthe sm」 l

Cen■ ,.The b

nova

ulica for about 100■ 1,you'1l reach a 15th century manor housc at No 5 that now con‐

tains thc Lamut Art Saion(prescntly under

Nova巧 ub」 帥 ska

8 ain to 2.30 to ll anl.The 5 and is open and till noon

dge tt Gorianska cesm 2.

If you lwalk nOrth‐ west along 10)raえ

s_

lett is the 2(X)― ye`r‐ old

St Nicholas

e Goriup

ong■ No8.

′ St Nl●

hdas Phar■ ,a(v

mm AnS」 on Nova Цub:lanska Banlo “ Chu:● h or St Nlondas POst orた Ю Boat Rontaに

Bus Stops C● on Bar

Pod Gonand Ponsbn

Jo2o Go」 up● a11●

"

Kostanievica na Krki

乃 κoSta″ θ ″ 3劉 ″"田'aS" ■, :′

`'■

ca"r,5化

",

口 Ｏ Ｆ ｍ Ｚ ﹂∽ ス ＞

濫il製品撫乱m

250 Doleniska― KostanJcvica na Krki Kostanievica Castle The former Cistcrcian monastery―

in scvcral places in SIovenia from 1961 lo

what

1988 whcreby sculptors worked with ma―

most peoplc hcrc call lく ostan」 CVica Castlc―

terials associatcd with the area.Hcrc it was

was begun in thc rnid-13th century and,

Oak, in Portoro2 stone, iron at Ravne in ka and(shudder)concrete in Maribo「 KOr。 こ ´

thrOugh donation dccds from the rulcrs of

Hungary and iBosnia, relllained a very wcalthy institution in the Middlc Agcs. It was abandOncd by thc ordcr in the latc 18th

century and was scverely darnagcd during vvヽvII and again in an canhquake in 1984. ・Iloday it houses a largc and irnportant art gallery.Thc castle is about l.5km south‐

wcst

of thc Pod(30r」 anci rcstaurant on(3ralSka cesta 45.

・ he nlain cntrancc through two painted I・

to、

vers icads to an enorrnous courtyard

encIOsed by a cloister with sol■ le 260 arcadcs on three■ oors.′ 1lo the west stands

I｀

day,cxccpt Monday,

hc castlc is open evcr)′

from 9 am t‖ 16 pm[om Aprilto October During the rcst ofthe ycar it closcs at 4 pm. Thc cntry fec is 400/2α D SIT for adults/stu‐ dents and childrcn.

Kostanievica Cave This small cave,on an unsealcd road about l.5knl south― east of town, has half― hour tours(400/300 SIT)atthc weekend fronl 10 anl to 6.30 pnl bct、 ″een lnid― April and

OctObcr(daily iom June to August).Thc guide will lead you some 300m in(only

thc disused Church ofthe Virgin Mary con―

1550m ofthc cave have been funy cxplored),

taining elenlents frOrn the 13th to 18th

past a sma11 lake,several ganencs fu11。

centurics― and a lot of frce― flying sparrows. A set of steps near、vhat was oncc the altar lcads to the rnuseum.

stalactites and stalagnlites and,no doubt,a

The Bo二 idarJakac Ga::ery contains 16th century frescocs taken frolll the church below,works by such Slovenian a■ ists as the inlpressionist Jakac and thc brothers F｀ rancc

(1895-1960)and Tone Kra」 T・

(1900-75).

here is also a penmanent collcction of()ld

f

α″′ ″ο′∫ お couple of specimens of Pα ′ ιαι,a snail unique to thc cave that たοsr`2″ り ιν」 seeins to thrive in the 12° C〕 temperature. here's a shaded picnic area in front of the cave on tiny Studena Streanl.

´ I・

Boating Thc littlc ice― cream

kiOsk nextto the bridge

Masters from thc Canhusian monastery at

just befOre yOu crOss ovcr to the isiandに nts

PleterJe(See thC fO‖ OWing SeCtiOn).

canoes(450/2500 SI・

Much ofJakac's work herc consists ofline

drawings done whilc docurncnting thc

I｀

per hour/day)and

kayaks(350/2000 SIT)for excursions on the

Krka"om Aprilto Scptcmbcr.

くＶ∽つＺШコ００

underground IPartisan inovernentin 1943.10,f all the anists,the exp“ssionist France Krat was the most versatilc and proll■ c,turning out hundrcds of works in oil,ink,bronze and wood;don't rniss his sculpturcs 7■ ιRι α rs and νο″ι″α″グC力 ′ .Some ofTonc Kralj's

lirnited in a town as small as KostanJevica. The Pο どGο りα 」guesthOuse(奮 87046)at “ 5 has seven rooms in total. LJubljanska cesta

`グ ,″ ι ′ S“ ″S`r)iS almOSt early WOrk(likeル を

Doubles with shower and breakfast are 5600

surreal but his iater rnovc to a kind ofsocial―

SIT

ist rcalism Oblitcracs ali traccs of it.Thc

pleasantthough lcss central pl∝ e Zο ′ ″ι ″ (● 87133)あ out 700m no■ h― cast of the isiand at K:rζ ka cesta 4.Its six roorns,including shower and break, fast,cost 390()SIr for singles,5200 SI′ for doubles.

lρ

'′

collection from PlcterJC fcaturcs works by French,German,Italian and Flemish artists of thc 16th and 18th centtlric、

1｀ hc(olls

are

)「 saints and church ainlost all portraits 、 notew。 ■hies and pretty sombrc stur. The castle grounds arc uscd to cxhibitover

100 1arge wooden sculpturcs frolm Forma Viva,an international exhibition once held

Places to lStay

Not surprisingly, accorninodation is very

Amoκ

is thc Cο

s″ J′ :α

I｀

P:aces to Eat ′ I｀

hcrc are a couple of bare― bones placcs for

DolenJska― PlctcrJc Monastcry 251 a quick ineal ordrink on the isiand,including

た and the dd_style cο ∫ ′ ぶご′ κ,7:ι dた 」″″ α″t,both on OraZnova ulica.'The

P」 ″:ι ″ ι αOrο

Bα rin an attractive old baroque build―

(1)“

``″

ing next to the lPod(:)orJanci pcnsion is a

rnonks returned to lPleterJe over a century later,they rebuilt thc cOrnplex according to

the plans of the order's charterllouse at Nancy in France. 1セ

plcasant placc for a drink.

iOu rnay CatCh a gliFnpSC Ofthe dOZen Or

so whitc― hoodcd nlonks quietly gOing about

The rcstaurant at Pο ど Gο り れι′is vcry .α

popular and thc back garden is oftcn

theirchores― they takc a strict vOw Ofsilcncc and are vegetarians― or hear thenl singing

crowded in summe■ Butfor mv moncv I'd

their office frorn the old nlonastery church at

hcad for thc Zο ′ ″」 ′ , KrSka cesta 4, whose

varlous tinles of the day.But the ubiquitous signs rcading α″″a― 路 rοp P′ ′ ′ον″ α″

owners are very scrious aboutthc food thcy serve.It's open daily till 10 prn.A speciality

(`Seclusion― No Entry')rcnlind you that

of KostanJevica is duck scrved with little rnlinci pancakes and, of cOurse, accOnlpa―

evcrything apa■ frOrn the church― the Ornate chapels,the innercourtyard,the cloisters and

nied by(1,viё ck winc.

the library rich in nledicval manuscripts―

is

off limits.

Getting There&Away

Above the ribbed rnain porta1 0f the

There aκ deDarturCS frOm Kostanievica to Novo Mcsto,‐ Breを icc andも enterne」 ・Othcr destinations and their daily frcquencies includc ttubljana(s ),Krζ ko(two)and

austcre church,builtin 1420 and onc ofthe

nlost important Gothic monurncnts in SIovenia,is a fresco dcpicting Mary and the Trinity. Inside,the rlb― vaulted cciling with

Oκ gnJC(One).

its heraldic bosscs and the carved stonc

PLETERJE MONASTERY

nichcs by thc altar arc wOnh a 100k,but what is nlost interesting is the rncdicval rood scrccn, the low wall across the aisle that

Yiou'1l sce more of thc treasures Of Pleter」

e,

a hugc monasterv iust over 3km south of

separated inernbers ofthc Ordcr frOrn the rest

Senjernc」 ,at Kostanjevica Castle than you

of the faithful.

wni′″si′ .PleCrJe(PIctariach in German) “ canhusians,the strictest Ofall belongstO the

coloured building,you can sec a 30-minutc

Roman Catholic monastic Orders.The

video(200 SIT,ive peoplc minimum)in one

Gothic Holy Trinity Church(alsO called the Old Monastery Church)is thc Only pa■ Of the cornPlex open to the general public at

of six languages, inclu(ling English, that dcscribcs the Carthusian way oflife and the

peaceful,it's、 vo■ lh a visit.Thc PleterJe T'rail

is a lt4-hour walk in the hills around the nlonastery cornplex. 1｀ he nlonastery 、 vas founded in 1407 by IIerinan II,one of the Counts of CclJC,and

history of Plecr」 e.Thc monks also sellsome

of thcir own products here,including packs

of beeswax candlcs(450 SIT),honey(750 SIT),Cviё ek and Chardonnay wines(400 SIT and 950 SI「 a litre)and lourけ pcs of brandy:Sα ″ι ツ (apple;10(Ю

S「 ),S″ νον滋

“ ),b″ ′ ″ο″εGuniperi 19∞ (plum;1250S「 SIT)and― eVeryOne'S faVOurite― 力″ぶ1″ “ (peari 3400 SIT).If you're wondering how

its construction was supervised by an English abbot called Prior Hanman.The

they gotthat'whole pear inside tlle bOttle,it's

complex was fortified with rampais,tOwers

turc fruit while still on the trcc. When the pear npens insidc,thc bOttle is reinOved and

and alTloat dunng the Turkish invasions and ali but abandoned during the Protestant Ref―

onnation,which swept DolenJskain the 16th

century.The Carthusian order, like all inonastic conlmunities in thc lHabsburg Empirc,was abolished in 1784.When the

sirnple― the bottle is placcd ovcr the iinrna―

filled、 vith brandy.・

The shopis open Monday

to Saturday fron1 7.30 anlto 5 pm and frorn 8 anl on Sundav.

Sentiernel is 6km west of Kostattevica and can be reached on the Novo Mesto bus

００ ｒｍＺ﹂∽ス＞

present. But the rnonastcry's 10catiOn in a narrow valley between sloI)CS awash in vines and the(3o」 anci Hills is so attractive and

At the inonastcry office in tile inain sand―

252 DolcnJska― PosavJc Region

daily buses or on any of the dozen or so

area,the occupying(:lerrnan forccs engaged in a brutal progranl of`cthnic cicansing'and

headed for Bcncc).There tte also up to six buscs a day tol I_′jublJana an(1()nc cach to

expclled morc than 15,()00 SIovenes.Many ofthem were interncd at a camp in Rtthcn―

KrSko and Zagreb.Buses stop in front ofthe Gο sr″ ″ ´ν″ぇ at Trg Gorjanskega

burg Castle at Brestanica before being

(rctum to Kostattevica on one oftwo dircct

`ヶ Bataljona 5,which is opcn dany,except

・ ucsday, til1 10 prn (Sunday t。 I｀

l prn).

Accommodaion can be arranged in town or in a vineyard cottagc.Ylou'1l havc to make your way on foot to Plctcr]e frolΥ i the bus stOp,thOugh,as there is no local service:it's

deported to Serbia,([〕 roatia or(]crrnany.

Bre2ice

′ a rο ′ ´●θ 6θ ∂ ・ ′ο ∫ ′ ε ο′ο∂25θ ・ ′ο ′69α ,。 α″ Breを ice is not the largest town in PosavJC―

that distinction gocs to Krgko,12knl upriver

―but frorn a traveller's point ofview,it is the

just ovcr 3km.The post ofFice,whe“ you

most interesting.The town lies bctween the

can change nloney,is on thc squarc oppositc thc gostilna.Itis open weekdays fron1 8 ain to 6 prn and tili noon on Saturday.

C)rlica Hills to the north and thc Go月

anci to

the south,and opens onto a vast plain to the

cast.The climate is inilder and dncr than ciscwhere in DolenJSka.

POSAVJE REG:ON Most of whatis called PosavJC,thc arca`on

History Situatcd in a basin Just north of where the Krka nowsinto thc Sava,Brcを icc

the Sava lRiver' as far as thc border with cЮ atia,is in StaJcrska,the large prOvince no■ h ofI)olenJSka.:But histoncally and geo―

centre in the Middle Ages and was grantcd a

graphically, Posav」 e is ciosely tied to

town chartcr in 1354. Bre2icc's dorninant

I)olcnJSka and easily acccssib!e frorn rnany

feature has always bccn its castic,Inentioncd in docurncnts as carly as 1249,with a stra― tegic position sornc 40()m fronl the Sava.In

of its to■ 'ns.

History Like DolenJSka,PosavJe was settled early and is rich in archacological inds from■ hc

Halistatt,Ccltic and Roinan penods.The Sava,of course,was paramount and,while Jason and thc Argonauts probably did not navigate the`Savus'upstrcanl as icgcnd tells

(Rhain in Gcnnan)was an imponanttrading

the 16th century the original castle was

replaced with a Rcnaissance fortress to strengthen the to、 ′ n's defences against the

∼

′

I'urks and l■ larauding

peasants who,during

onc uprising,bcheaded noblcs at the castic and irnpaled their heads on poles.

′ 「 hecastlewasbuiltwiththchelpofltalian

us, the Rornans certainly did, building a

masters and is not dissiinilar to the ones at

rna,or port called Neviodunurn near today's I:)■ lovo.Siavic gravcs unearthcd in the arca

C)toё

date frorn the 7th century.

the Counts ofAtterns,renovated the building in the baroque style and added severalsunlp― tuous r()orns,inclucling the largest function rOOnl in sIOvenia.´ r10day the castle hOuses

Posavjc took centre stage during the

｀ ■urkish invasions starting in thc 15th century― which explains the large nunllber ofheavily fortified castics in thc region―

and

again 10C)ycars later during the SIovenian― Croatian peasant uprisings and the Protestant Refornlation. River traffic increased in thc 19th century after a 20knl stretch ofthe Sava

was rcgulatcd,and thc an・ ival of the railv/ay in i862 1inking L′ jublJana and Zagreb helped the rcgion develop industrially. PosavJC had more than its share of suffer―

ing duringヽ

Vヽ VII

In a bid to co!onise the

ec, Sevnica and Mokrice in design.

(1)ver acentury later,thc castle's ncw owncrs,

thc PosavJc Museurn. Orientation&informlation Brcを

icc's main strcct is Ccsta Prvih Borcev.Hcading south it becornes Pregernova ccsta and crosscs thc Sava.Going north it changcs narncs to.1｀ rg

lzgnanccv and Cesta lBratov Milavccv.The

main artcry going eastward is Bizcljska ulica T｀

he bus station is bchind the big shopping

Dole■ ska― PosavJe Region 253 ccntHD on ([〕 csta Svobodc, 200■ l north of

Bizeljska ulica.■ hc train station is farther afield on Trg On about 2.5km no■ h of the town centま ). There is no tOurist Oface in iBreを ice,but

thestaffatthePosatteMuseumwmhelpyou

(:)reek gods, the four ]Evangclists and thc

Atteins family coat of"ms.The ist roonls contain bits and Pieces from earliest tilnes to

the anival ofthe Slavs;don't rniss the skel― CtOnS frOnl the 9th Century:BC〕 uneanlhed

near l)obova, the 5th century BC bronze dle,thcCeltic md Rommjewellery md a

with any qucstions you have.Thcrc'sa Nova

b

Ljubumska Banka branch tt Ccsta Prvih

dentd hclnlct that suggcsts the lcgionndre

Borcev 31,open on weekdays from 7 ain to

weanng it gotlkicked in the head by a mule. 11l the ethnographic rooms,a1long with the

6 plm and till noon on Saturday.SKB Banka,

which has an ATM,is fa■ hcr north tt No 39. ■le post omce is at Trg lzgnancev la and is open from 7 anito 7 pm weckdays and till noon on SalLIrday.

carved woodcn bowis,decorated chests and plated loaves of bread,is a siange bechive in■ le shape ofasoldierfrom thecarly 1800s. (D)n the top he's French and on the bottoln

CЮ ■lan. Posavle Museum Housed in the Renais‐ sance castle at Clesta Pn′ ih:Borcev l,this is

one of provincial Slovenia's best inuscuins, and its a,chacological and ethnographic col― lecions are particularly rich.

From mc counyad you ascend a staiК asc

illustatd on the wdls and ceiling with

C)thcr rooms cover life in thc PosavJC κgion in the 16ぬ century(focusing on the peasant uprisings in the area and the Protes‐

tant Refonnaion)and the time of the two wOnd wars,with emphasis on the deporta tion of Slovenes by the Gennans during WWII.There's dso a collection of b田 ・ oque

わ 珈 動 ¨

1

■ヽ ■′

К ①浄 Brezlce ００ ｒｍＺ﹂∽バ＞

ヽ 一ヽへ ゝ

l Pensonま im 2 Bus Sulonこ Shopping ContЮ 3 0oa Fast‐ Food Res● unnt

4 Simona Pub 5 Post O“ lo●

6 SKB Banka 7 Go● Ina Splavar e Do『 l Supemalket 10 Nova Llubla“ b Banka

ll Chuch d StLaw"nce 12 Jata SupOmaket 13 14 15 16

Vimloka 31“ り ska Ю0 01d WatOrTOwer RdoO Baron Pub Posalo Castお よM¨oum lの ぼ ￨力 "

254 1)olenJSka一 IPosavJe lRegion oil paintings.(〕 hcck outthe ornate tile stoves

the Krka,fishing in the Sava or

in inany of the roorlls.

riding and tennis.

Кlrka,horse

But thc museum's rea crowd_pleaser is

the Knights'Hall(ViteSka Dvorana),an

Special Events 'The Festival of Early

ltalian barOque nlaSterpieCe Where CVery― thing butme n。 。ris panted wim landscapes,

Music,which for iTlany ycars had been held

gOds and heroes from Grcck and Roman

certs of ancicnt rnusic held in Breを ice dunng

inythology,allegones,the Muses etc.Ylou rnay vaguely recognisc the place; SOrne

thc first half of August and one of the

niSerieS動 ′И 2Sげ SCeneS frOm the TV r weκ ilmcd hec. "ねThc

PosavJe Museuin is opcn Monday to

in Radovlje in GorenJSka,is a senes of con―

cOuntry's mOst prestigious cultural even惚 The conce■ s takc place in the Knights'H」

P:aces to stay Thc hugeご αたそ71″ ,′ sitc(●

.

1.

camp

350α))is not cheap at DM16 to

SalLlrday fron1 8 arn to l pnl and on Sunday from 9 ain tili noon.The adnllssion charge is

I)M18 pcr pcrson,depending on the season,

300/150 Srr.

but canlpers get use of the outdoor swiin―

Catett Tlerme Rheurnatics have been bathing in he therm」 spring tt Cacを (pop lCЮ 5), 3km sOutll― east ofBreを ice,sinccthe late 18th

century.'1loday,whilc the huge spa cornplex still attracts thosc suficring■ ol■ such aches

and pains,it is every bit as much a recrea―

tional arca.The spa counts nine thcrmal― water(27-36° C)outdoor pools with huge slides,lountains and aitificial、 vaves over an

area of 8000 sq metres.Indoors the Wintcr

Therm」 Rivicm complex measures 1200 sq metes wih a watcrに mperaurc Of about 32° C.Thc

outdoor colnplex is opcn iom

Ap l to Scptember and admission is 9(Ю to looo slr depending On the day Ofthc wcck. The indoor pools an3 open all ycar and entry くＹＯつＺШコＯＱ

「 .The spa also has saunas,a

costs 1300 SI・

stam room,Roman bah,solanum,gym,a jOgging track along thc river and tennis

coulls.A guide is inadc availablc to gucsts ′ een 9 and ll arn;tell him or evcry day bet、 、

her where you wantto go and whatyou want to scc and you'rc ofi

Activities At Cate2,along with taking the

ming pools.Itis open from Ap lto October There are also b“ ″gα ′ οws nca‐ by costing D,M59/84 and I)M66/94 for singles/doubles, πrs for depcnding On the scason,and aPar″ πι uD tO iVe DeODle fOrI)M120 to I)M140. In B“ をice,thc S″ ″,pcnsion(● 65613) at Trg lzgnancev 7 is an attr¨ tive litdc gucst―

house with 22 beds that's been around for rnore than 70 ycars. Expcct to pay about l二

)M25 per person including breakfast.It's on

a rather busy street so ask for one ofthe back

rooms.The L`s guesthousc(●

61 1(Ю

)at

ska cesta 31 in (〕 ateを ob Savi has singlesノ doublcs with breakfast and showcr

Ril■

for 350〔 )/600()SI・

R

The Catcz Terme spa complex has three hotcls(●

'351000;fax 62 721)at'Iloplibka

jぶ cesta 35.1・ he Z′ ′ αν′ ′ J′ ,with 130 beds,is

generally reserved for those who are taking the spa seriously.I:)epending on the season,

singles areI)M76to I)M87,doubles I)M108 to I)M124.The 7を ″″ `,with 250 beds, charges I)M96 to lD)M109 forover singles and IE)M140 to I)M168 for doubles.■1le newest hotel,the 48-bed 7bP′ たι,costs D:M89 to IE)M102 for singles and iD)M134 to I)M154 for doubles,depending()n the season.

waters,you can rent a boat or a bicycle(500 SI「 fOr tWO hOurS).In the nearby tOWn of

Piaces to Eatln Brettcc,therc's a fast― food

Cateを Ob savi,hOrses can be hired frOm the

caf6 called I)ι αoppositc the post officc on

21ean(31ub at Rlmska cesta 22 and ridden uD

Scntvid Hll(386m). Thc Stirn guesthOuse in Bre2ice(see

Trg IZgnanCeⅥ И″οセ滋 βjζ 肋 ιr at Bizeljska ulica 10,Just pttt `榛 the old water tower(1914)and opposite the Jara super―

PlaCeS tO Stay)Can OrganiSe any number Of

rnarket, serves food and wine from the

activities in the arca,including canc)eing on

BiZeliSkO― Sremiё

Wine“ giOn tO the nOrth

DlolcnJska― Posav」 c Rcgion 255 and west of Breを ice.Another possibility is thc C`ド ′ ″″αS′ ″ッαr at Ces● Prvih BoК ev40. ThC gOStilna at thC S′ ′ ′ 7,pCnSiOn SpCCial― ises in fish and scafood.・ I'he Laζ ki Rtizling,

with horses for rcnt,a20-hcctarc`English park'fu1l of rare plants,and a large orchard ofpear trees,it nlakes a delightful cxcursion from Brcを icc.

・ he castle as itstands today dates frorn the

a slightly tuity,medium― dry wine from

I｀

BiZelSk。 ,iS nOt a bad¨ COmpaniment・ The

16th century,but therc are bits and Pieces

gostilna is open daily for lunch and dinncr

going back to Roman times(inscription

(eXCept Sunday)t。 9 pnl. Thc Dο l“ supcrinarket at Cesta Prvih Borcev 35 is opcn wcckdays iol■ 7 am to 7

StOneS, pali Of a tOWer etC)built intO the

pm and on Saturday till l pm.

stmcturc.Likc many othcr castles in the rcgion,it was built as a defcncc against thc 'Iヽ

lrks and later turncd into a baronial■ lano■

The 19th century German writer Count Entertainment 'The κ″Jg力 ′ s'′「 ちαJJ in the PosavJc Muscum has near― periect acoustics and concerts are held there throughout the ye`r.The R′ B´ ´ ο″pub at Cesta Plwih pub■ No 33 Borccv 2 and `“ thc Bο ル ο caκ ‐ of the same sti℃ ct ac “ popular places for a dnnk,open daily to ll pm or midnight.′

The

sJ″ οれα pub tt HolyJeva steza l atracts a

vely young crowd.It's open till late.

Getting There&Al″ aV Buses run hourly

Friednch von Cagern was boHl here,and sorne of his novels are set in tile castle and

surounds. There are a couple of interesting stories about the castle,onc of which tclls of a 17th

baa who fcllin ccntury countess named B劉 ・ love with a sailor called Marko. When hc wentto sea and failed to return,POor Barbaa committed suicide.Her ghost still st」 ks the castle's secret passagcways and staircases at night,and she is pa icularly active on the

from Bre2ice to Bizeljsko,Ceよ lje,Dobova,

tぉ t day of St Barbara(4 Deccmbcr).The

KostanJcvica,KrSko,NovoMcstoand CatcZ ■mle and up Ю eighttimeS a dり tO珂 ub―

cぉ tlc's cott of arms may strikc you tt odd; it po■ rays a raven with an arrow picrcing its

ljana.Other destinations and thcir dttly

ぬroat Apparently a Turkish janissa,Shot

frequencies include:(ElelJC(One bus a day on

the bird as it squawked to wam■ hc inhab―

weekdays),Krgko viaDmovo(thκ e),Oregje

itants of an invasion in the 15th century.

(threC)and SenOV。 (threC). SOrne Of theSe buses,like the Ones t。 (じ ate2,can be bOarded at the train station in Breを ice.There's a bus

・ hursday and to Munich on 'I'ucsday, 「 As many as 15 trans a day serve Breを

ＵＯ ｒｍＺ﹂０ス＞

Sunday.

ice

from珂 ubljana(107km;1%hours)via 2`idani Most,Sevnica and iK:rζ

ko.Many of

these tans then crOss the crOaian bOrder near I)obova and can・ y on tol乙 agreb.

Ge

ng Around Buses run betwcen thc bus

口 0

ロロ

:

station and the tran station cvcry h」 hour 「 thlに )ughoutthe day.

Mokrice Cast:e

Mok

ce,about 10knl south― east of Breを ice,

isぬ c lovcltst castle in thc Posavje“

′´´

gion

and has been cornpletely renovated and turned into a 30-roorn luxury hotel.With onc of Sl()venia's few golfcourses,a large stablc

1・

二

´

‐

Moknce,the finest castle in the Posa e region,dates from the 1 6th century.

2561)olenJska― PosavJe Region

Thcsm」 l Gothic Chape:of St Ann in the castic grounds not far frolTl the drawbridge

bicyclc■ Omё ttcを ,お 110wing thc sccOndary road running parallelto routc No l(E70).

has some interesting baroque stucco wOrk

inside. The park is filled with baroquc statues.

Bizeiisko‐ Sremiё Wine District CyCling allthe Way tO B:2eliSkO(V√ iSell

in

If you want to s曖 y atthe G″ αグノ Иοた″ ι ο hotel(● 570α );fax 57 007),bc prcPared to ` shell out a ininimurn of I)M144 for a single

be pushing it for somc(it's 18km iom

with breakfast and DM160 for adouble.One

Breを iCe),butthere'S abuSleaVing eVery hOur

of the 240 sq rnetre suites goes for E)M320

to lD)M340, dcPending on thc season. The

or so,a1lowing you to gct off whcncvcr you see a gostnna or wine cellar rッ ′ ″s々αたた′

roonls havc bearned ccilings and perlod fur―

makedby a“ d,yel10W and brOWn Sign)th江

errnan;population 1 940)through thc hcal■ of the Bizeljsko‐ Sremiё wine country might (:〕

;

nimre,and sOme suits have iκplaces.Thc

takes your fancyln Bizeljsko,t,SOme of

fOrmal With fanCy

the local lllediunl‐ dry whites and reds atthe

CaStle reStaurant iS prCtけ

game and fish dishcs and classical nlusic;the ccllarhas 60diffcrent Slovenian wines avail‐

И″s滋 7κ ′ た″だ at housc No l15 or at `rPれ Gο s″ ′ ″α ttb″ ″α at No 72,or visit the

able l)y thc glass or bottle.

rsr`″

′ rry sornc ッ′ ″ο ッ た α ,Miokrice's famous pear brandy. tiα ′ I'he green fee for a round of golf at

Mokricc's18-hole coursc is I)M45 on wcek― days and lD,M50 at weckends(less for hotel guests).A half sct of clubs costs DM 15 to

′ びcell`u・ s in thc ncarby villagc Of sltara Vas(housc No 7).・ I'hey are open Monday, Wiednesday andrrhursday from noon to 7 pin and fronl Fnday to Sunday til1 9 Pm.A tour and a wine tasung costs 800 SI′ ■

From Biausko you can either return to

rent. 'Thcrc's also a pro giving lessons (DM35 an hour〉 Hose riding is availあ le

Bre2ice or continue north for 7k:In past

and a carriage nde to Cateを

Century Bレ e:iSk)CaStie Ю BiStriCa Ob SOtli.

Terme(7km)and

back costs I)M30 per person. ヽ 1lou can rcach Mok ce on the bus to Ob“ 荀 e,but Cide」 WaytO gO WOuld be by

Bizclska Ⅵ s and thc mins of thc 15th From hec buses go north― westto Ko巧 e via the village of Podsreda.site of the oldest

CaStle in S10Venia(SeetheStterSkaCh"ter).

くＹＯ﹁Ｚ目ヨ００

STⅣ E FALLON

ｔ ′ ｒ   ・Ｌ Ｆ ・ 、   ｌ ｉ 一﹁ Ｐ JOCO`NIDARS,ё

A B

A: Entrance to Kostanievica Castle,a former Cistercian iT10naStery,Doleniska B:The ornate ltanan baroque Festive Ha‖ ,in Bre2ice CaStle,Posavie

Region,Doleniska

Ｄロ STEVE FALLON

STEVE FALLO,ヽ

1丁 IT「 Tl)、 STEVE FALLON

A

Ai Churches ofthe Tri Fare(Three Parishes),Rosalnice,Bela KralinQ

B

C: Centuries― old grapevine,Lent district,Maribor,Stalerska

C

B: 1 9th century painted beehive panels,Ivlaribor Regional Museum,Stalerska

Bela Kralina ・ he `White March' of south‐ eastcrn Slovcnia takes its narne frorn the endless

HIGHL:GHTS

I｀

・

・ Visit the 「 hroo Parishes Pilgrirnage churches:n Rosalnico

stands of birch trees that cover this little province.It is a treasurc trove of Slovcnian

・ IExperience the Jurievanie feStiVal in

folklorc, and you'1l sce more traditional

Cmomoljin midJune

dance and hear nlore lnusic here than any‐ where else in the country,pa■ iculariv around

O Go kayakng onthe rapid― waterrun on the Kolpa R erfЮ m Stan Trg o Vinica

Cmomelj andAdleSiё i.Many ofthc s nged hsmmlents― her″ 泌 ガ6α ,theら ιたわ (∞ ntra―

●[)iscover Bola Kralina folk rriusic. espe‐ cia‖

y around Adleも

iCi

“ αびand tteら お α guiほ r‐ like b″ `′ "た (lutC)― are uniquC tO the“ giOn Or Origintted

b`が S),the

here.

Like Dolcttska,Bcla Kralina is famous fOr its IIallstatt and lto■ lan sitcs; a 3rd century sh nc to the god Mithra(or Mithrぉ ) near thc village of ltoZanec is one ofthe best

p“ seived in EurOpe.In the Middle Ages, Bela Kl・ 句ina was me most remoじ part of Slovenia,and in somc ways it still fccls like

that.Many of thc peasant upnsings of the 15th and 16th centurics stalted here or across

the border in Croatia.

Fare at Rosalnice, Mctlika grew into a

av」 ley■ the foot ofthcZumberak Hills ald is surOundcd by crOala On three sides.The

nlarkettOwn andwas givcn acharterin 1365. ng the Metlika was in thc front lines du wars withthe Hunganalsin the 14thcentury. Thc Turks atackcd somc 17 tirnes beginning in 1408 and actuallv occuDied the tOWn in 1578-something its rival Crnomelj poinも Out never happened to it.For many ycars,

Kolpa River is 2klm to the south.

hrisdanity Metlika was the last outpost ofく 〕

METLiKA

∫ ′′8''θ ・ ′ο ワ θo α,t,a cο ′′●θ68・ ′ο `rο One of``θBela Kl,電 ina's two most important

towns,Mctlika(Mottlingin Germm)lics in

in this part of Europe. Prosperity came smnt Reお rm“ on, e■ y中 ngぬ c PЮ じ but the Zumberak Hills sheltecd outlaws b

Hisbry

・I'he area around Metlika was inhabitcd

and brigands from Croatia,who would con‐

dunng prchistonc tinlcs,and thcrc was a maJOr H」 lstatt sc■ lelnent hcrc during thc carly lron Agc.Thc Romalscanctoo,esmb―

tinue to h`ra,s thc town for centu

Sisak in Croatia.In inediev」

times“

sorlle buildings dating back several centu‐ nes,Inost of Mctlika was rebuilt after 1945.

`ggjο Jjι α`′ 」 οJ′ ′ (the regiOn Called ルイι′ ` “ Metlika)included inost of today's Bcla `“

KraJina,and the Metlika March was an important iontier region.Only a few

Orientation

kibmctres from me pilgrimagc sitc of T五

squa℃ s,stands on a ndgc bctwccn a sinall

Metlika's 01d Town, consisting of three

257

鬱 ｍ ｒ ＞ ス コ ＞ ﹂ 一Ｚ ＞

lishing an outpost herc,and Metlika was on a road leading to the iinpo■ lant nvcr pol威 of

cs.

・I'he ltalians occupicd Metlika during v7v√ Ⅱ,and by the end Ofthe war some 120 buildings had been burncd to the ground. Though thc kcrnel of the〈 )ld Tlown counts

258 Bcla Krttina― Metlika

Things to See Met‖ ka Cast:e,with iお L‐ shaPed a,caded courtyard at Trg Svobode 4,houscs me Bela Kra,ina Mluseu:m.The collection,exhibited in 18 roorns,includcs(遣chaeological finds takcn from thc arca such as H」 lstatt buckles, bracelets and arnulets fronl Pusti(〕 radac

sou■

ofCmomel帥 d

acopy ofthcMithraic

´ 。 ．

relief from the Roman DCriOd fOund at Roを an∝ near Cmomelj.Artefacts coll∝ ted fronl inore recent periods are displayed in a nlock― up ofan old pharnlacy and photo studio. Much einphasis is placed on agriculture in

Bela【 筍ma― eVery

ng yOu'Ve eVer Wmted to know about beckeeping,fmit cultivation, viniculture,fishing and aniinal husbandry is here― as weII as folk a“ peculiar to the

region,including decorated Easter eggs, glass paintings and religious icons in bottles.

The artist and sculptor Alojz」 Gangl,who was born in Mctlika,is givcn pride of place. streanl called the(Dbrh and the inain sti℃

et,

A small building wcst of the castle entrancc(Trg Svobode 5)conttns the Fi腱

Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti(Avenuc of Fra―

Brigades MuseulTI.Mcdika was the ast

temity and Unity).YOu Can reaCh itfrOm the main street by w」 klng up Ulica naTrgtoTrg Svobode and then Mestnitrg.

tOwn in sIovenia tO have a nre bngade and

'I'he rnodern bus statlon is 650■ l south of

the 01d Town on Ccsta XV Bngade.To gct

ing old ire mcks with enOrmOus whcels, laddcrs and buckets but no Ddmatans(on

to tte train station,w」 k sou血 」ong Cesta

おurlegs anyway).Firenghters,by

XV]Bngade for 600■ l and then tum east on

are considered the `party animals' of

Kolodvoska ulica.

hasthus earned the nghtto such a shnnc.It's a lot more interesting than it sounds,display‐

e way,

s10venia, hOsting dances, fetes and other j′ ″ through― sJJ∫た

boozc― ups outside the gα

inforrnation ■lc staff a hc in10rin江 10n windOw in the town h」 1(● 58135)江 Mcstni trg 24 may be ablc to help you out or you can try the reception■ the Bela KraJina hotel

I)olenJSka Banka has a branch at 'Trg

lο

outthe surnrnen Sorne S10venes say that's all they evcr seenl to dO.「 he defence t(ourer I・

opposite the Firc Brigadcs Museuin dates froin the 16th century.

The BclaKrajinalMuscum is opcn frOm 8 am■ o4pm on weckdays,ti11 2 pin on Satur‐ day and from 9 am■ ili nOOn On Sunday.The

く２︼ ﹁く〓Ｙ くコШロ

Svobode 7,open fron1 8 arn to 6 pnl and ill

Fire Bngades Museunl is open Monday to

noon on Saturday, and anOther Onc with

Saturday fron1 9 arrito l pm and on Sunday

reduCed hOurS(Weekdays only froin 8 am■ ill

till nOOn.The entrancc fee to both is 300/200

noon and 2 to 4.30 pin)in the shOpping complex in NЖ eljc Bo sa Kidriё a opposite

SIT for adults/children.

the bus station.The post ofFice,open frorn 7 ain to 7 prn weekdays and till noon on Sat― urday,is in the sarne shOpping centR).'I'he

medical centre(●

58259)is at Cesta

Bratstva in Enotnosti 71.

Mestnitrg is a c010urul,leafy squな 00f 18th and 19th century buildings,including the neo― GOthic

town hall(1869)at No 24.

At the southern cnd of the square is the so―

called KOmenda(COmmande17),Which

once belonged to the knights ofthc・ Ileutonic

Bela Kiaina― Metlika 259 ヽ

PLACES TO STAY 3 8ola Kttha HotOl

∞ nlska Banb 1●

Vinotolo Pind

お m HalI

PLACES TC,EAT l G031に

Kol●

Chuに h dnik

4 Na pragah “ R03taurant

OTHER

Bus Stユ ion Shopping CentЮ

2 Chu"h ol St Ma"in 6 Fl膊

or St Nに hdas

Komenda

B19ados Museum

&

Mo● dor Supermalkot

19P。 ゛oricO

7 Moulka Castlo& B● Kr8,ina Muspum ￨●

剖

も ◎／ 、

o14

Metlika 口ｍｒ＞ スコ＞﹂一 ２＞

260 Bela Klraり lna― Mctlika

Order(note the Matese cross panted on the

lunぬ .rsopenfЮ mm∞ n ω ni¨ ig“ eveヮ

Outside wal)and is now a rest home.The interior of the Church of ISt N:choias

“ BC[ut"8“ aα )py of血 ●1:50,α Ю D`●

(1759),which is modelled on the Kttalke's

y bat MonⅢ y.

κ ● m8P iOn CZS. :α

"′

ChuК h oftte Ⅵ rgin Maryin Liublma,has sobe

ng fre“ ∝s ofthe Day ofJudgmentけ

DolnenК o Fab

o.

The Gothic Church of St Manln■ the nonhem end of Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti is one of■ e oldest stnlctulに sin Medika but is cracking froril the bottonl up and is no

longer in use.It contains late Renaissance Юmbs with κliet.Outside is a wayside

Special Events Medika's rn n event is the Vinska Vig“ d wine festival in■ud‐ May.The town also h。 lds

lnusical evenings in the casue froin

early July tO Carly SeptembeL Ask for a program a the museum Orthe own h」 1. Piaces to staV

shnne with a barely rcκ lognisable frescO.

'I'here are twO cainping grounds in the Medikaarea.Oneis me B″ zα οらκοJ′ ,camp

Activities he lく。lpa iS a Clean and VCry Warnl(up tO

site(● 58123),about 2krn south of Medika aCrOSS flK)in Croatia on the lく olpa R、ive■ 'rhe

vcrso you might wantto go for adip r the canping g,Ound atthe end ofCesmXVBrigade,about2km south ofぬ e

charge perperson is 450 S111'The otheris the

'I｀

28° C)

at Breza neそ

01d Town across fr01■ Cro"ia.You can dso

larger乃 ご Z`″ ″あん レ」 ('SainC)劇 so

o■

he Kolpa md nea me vmage of Suje, あout7km south‐ westofMedib.Po&eme」

く２一 ﹁くにＶ くコШｍ

swiminthe KolpaathcPOdzemelj camping

measures l.5 hectaresin size andcan accorn‐

grOund. The Kolpa is known forits grayling,carp and brown trout but the`u℃ aで Ound Ⅵ nica 『 licences, is liche.You can purchase nshing

■lodate 2001 people.1『 he charge is 650 SI'r

Vdid br a day,atthe POdZemel Camp SiC. There are alot ofw」 ksin thc surounding areas.A vely easy one is up tO Veseilca,a Sm」 l hill less than lkm north ofIMalika, with great views Overthe town.You can stop a Cο S′ 毒￨`′ κοルd″ 凛 ■ Potna V∝ elico 5 for

per,crson,and itis open fiOrn June tO mid‐ SCptember・

G

BuSeS L“ edお rCmOme」 and

bje willldyou o∬ close toぬ e siし ■le Pガ B″ga″ νi力 fttmhou鯵 (● 58302)

at Boldra):(house No 6),4km north‐ cast of Medika,hasonelargeapamlent,wi」 1日 にhen, that can accoinmOdate up to six peOple. j″ ■le B′ 麟κ′ ″ α(● /fax 58 123)at Cesta

Bratstva in Enomos● 28,the only hOtel in

Bela K:raJina―

town,h霞 24 f ly shabby r∞ ms and cha■ es

Around Mctlika 261

AROUND METLiKA

2500/4600 SI・ I' for singles/doubles with

Rosainice

shttred shower and 3400/5800 SIT for roorns

Fal℃ )in this village The Three Parishes(T 2.5krn east of Metlika is a row of three

wim showers.Pnces include beakfast.

graceful little churchcs that have been Places to Eat P″ Bα ″ s“ 誠Mcstnitrg 6 is aplcasantpl∝ c “ and ccntrdly located.It is opcn for a med daily, except 'Thursday, until 10 pnl. The town's12ぼgest restaurant is theノ Viα Dragα 力at Cesta Bra“ tva in Enotnosti 45,opposite the

iinpoltant pilgrllnage sites for seven centu‐

ncs.'rhOugh they wclて ,Originally built in the

latc 12th century by thc Tcmplars,today's churches date frorn the 14th and 15th centu― nes.The one to thc north― the largest of the

three_is the church of the Sorrowful

Bela KFalina hOtel. It'S Open t0 10.30 pm

Virgln and has a(Gothic Presbytery. The

weekdays and till inidnight at the weckcnd. The J“ び ιた pub On Pa“ izanski trg 21 has “ chcap pizzas from 4(Ю SIT. ″α Thel℃ 's a wondeful place callcd Gο s″ ′

church in the nuddle― Ecce Homo一 has a large tower rising above its porch.'Ille onc on the south with the butlresses and another

砕sι Jだ (● 57156)in Podzemelj(housc No 17),notfa from■ e camp siし It'saね vour‐ ite of local peoPlc and has acconllnodation. Ifyou want Ю tw some Bela Kraり ina wine

Gothic presbytery is the Church of Our Lady of Lourdes.Many of the gravestones in the churchyard are decorated with caurved vines and grape leaves. 'Ilo the west of the churchyard entrance at

but don't have tirne to gct out into the

αた,a housc No 80 is Gο s″ 腸αPr,7)1`力 Eα ″

cOunt,,head brthc И″οたレ Pれοr

pleasant placc forlunch or a snack.'I｀

at Trg

hcrc is

Svobodc 28, where you can sainple lPinot

actually a train station in Rosalnice south of

Blanc,Chardonnay,Ricslings and sweet

the Thrcc Paishes and thc busto BoZ`よ ovo

(:〕

old Muscatel.It's open daily to ll prn. οr superinarket in There'salそrge ν α′ `κ

the shopping complex in Naselje Borisa ′ K[idriё

a, open Monday to

I｀

hursday frorrl

sЮ ps here,butitisjust as casy to w」

k,om

Metlika.From the()ld Town,head north― east along Navratilova pot and follow Ulica Janka Brod`riё a eastward lor 600m,where

6.30 anito 8 prn,to 9 prn on Friday,to 7 prn

you'1l tunl south.Aftcr 200m tum east and

on Saturday and frorn 8 am to ll prn on

condnuc on stralght to the churches.

Sunday. Metilka lWine Distrid The hills tO the nOrth and nOnh‐ east of

EntertainFnent There's a disco called the Gλ

ιοatthe i″

shop‐

ping cen『 cin Nぉ elje Bo sa Kid ё a,open ・I'hursday to Sunday from 8 P■ lto 4 anl.

Metlika a“)one ofthe nlostinlpo■ ant wine― pЮ ducing arcttin Bela Kl:可 ina and produce such distinctive wincs as Mctliζ

ka Crnina,a

Getting There&Away

very dark red― almost black― winc and a late‐ matunng swect`icc winc'.They a・ e also

D)cstina● ons selⅣ ed

superb acas for c`瑯ly walking.

by bus from Metlika

On the way to Vinomer and DraSiё l,two

Cmomelj(eight),DraMё i(two on week―

important wine towns about four and 6km respcctivcly frorn Metlika, you'1l walk thrOugh S″ ケ″J″ ,StandS Of birCh treeS growing alTlong ferns in clay soil.For

dayS),CribljC(OnC),JugOrJC(SeVen), Kalovac in Croa」 a(three on w∝ kdays), コ ubljana(bur),Novo Radoviё a‐ Ostr彪 (four

Mesto(eight), on weekdays)and

ViniCa(iVe). Metlika is served by up to a dozen trains

daily from巧

ublala(122km;2%hours)via

NovoMestoandCmomel.Four tains a dり head for Karlovac in(〕 roatia.

Slovcnes,thcse`forests'are the very synll)ol of Bela KraJina. DraSiё i is fanlous for its folk architecture

―。ld PCasant houses built over wine cell`u・

s.

lklou can salnple some local wines at sevcral places, including the lイ ッ Jど f`遭・ ■11louse lα

`′ “

Ｚ＞ 口ｍｒ＞ スコ＞﹂一

include Boこ akovo(two orthrec buses adav).

262 Bela Krttina― Crnomelj (奮 58614)江 Draも iё i 2b.Call in advance as everyone inight be outin the vineyards.

ёRNOMELJ セ ,a cο ′ ′●θ68 ・ ′OS′Cο ′′83イ θ ・ α′ ・ ′075イ θθ ′

Orientation&inforination BuSeS tO and frOm CmOmeli StOp On Trg Svobode in the heart of thc lC)ld'1lown.The

train station is about 200m nortil of the

in a loop where the LahinJa and Dobliё ica

LahinJa hotel at Kolodvorska cesta l. By noW the οらご」 ″α (COntinunity)gOVCnl― :iCC in nlent nlaV haVe ODened a tOuriSt()￨“ Crnomelj Castic on Trg SvObOdc as Planncd;

nvcrs incct.Thc town is not ovcrly endowed

ring● 52 040 or● 51363(fax 51 117)for

I｀

hc capital of】 Bcla lく ralina and its largest

town,Cmomelj is situ=ed on a promontOry

with impo■ ant sighも ,butitis Bcla Krttina's

inforination.Otherwise scek assistance from

lolk`hcart'and itsJu■ CVangc fcstival attracts hundreds ofdancers and singers frorn around

thc ncw town museum in CmOmelj castle Or fromthe staffattheLttinjahotel.Kccp your

the region.

eyeS Open fOr the freebie paFnphiCt E″ ″ 01′

Legend has itthat Crnome」 (a corruption

Of the wOrds lor`black mm')got its name when a beggat dissatisfied with the quality of the flour he'd been given,put a cursc on the local millet Pcrhaps thc town's symbol ―a smiling baker holding a prctzcl― knew better than the rniller the real threat of a

lι

b

ι ′ α り'r」 Y′ ′ ι g`π aJ′ ,′カハ ο gカ ′j″ g βι “′ “ “ Dο ル″ Sた α&B′ ´κ′ 」 aり `α ″αprOduCed ブ by the S′

SIovenian llounst Board.

Dolettska Banka has a branch at Trg Svobode 2 open frorn 8 annto 6prn weckdays and dll noon on Saturday,ancl another one at

`beggar's curse'.

Kolodvorska cesta 32b, next to the post office,open weekdays only'om 8 am till noon and 2 to 4.30 pin.There's an SiKB

History

Banka in the new shopping centre just Off

Like Metlika,Crnomelj(Tschernembl in

BelokranJska cesta at Zadl田 老na cesta 16. Thc post office,at Kolodvorska cesta 30, is opcn from 7 am to 7 pm weekdays and till

German)was setled vcry early on,and the

Roman pκ senceis cvidcnt"om the Mimraic shnne at Ro営 llnec,about 4kin no■

h―

west of

noon on Saturday.CrnOmelj's mcdical

ぬctOwn.ё mOmelj wasanimp。 ■ant markct

centre(● 51131)is at Delavska pot 4.

town and a bishopnc as carly as the 13th ccntury,and was given a chanerin 1407.

ThingS to See&Do

I)uring the′ rurkish invasions in the 15th

CrnOmeli Cagie(Crnom」 jski Grad),parts

and 16th centurics,the tO、 vn was attacked incessantly, but due to its strong fortinca_

of which dtte■ om the late 12th century,

Straを 可i Vrh and Dobliё ka Gora to the west,

houses govcrnrnent Ofices,a restaurant and the new￢own Museum Co‖ edion ofitems and docurnents relatcd to the history of

it was never taken. In fact, trade thrived

Crnomelj and Bela Krttina.Itis open week―

under such protcction, and lこ ;rnOrnelj

days only fron1 9 anl to 2 prn.

tions and excellent hilltOp lookouts at

enJ10ycd sOrnething of a golden agc in the 7itll the establishinent of the 1 6th century.ヽ ヽ

´ 「 hc

foundations of StoniO Castle

(StOniё eV(〕rad),tO the south at Ulica Staneta

く Ｚ 弓 く ∝Ｙ く 凛“ 鶴

Militaゥ7 March and the fort at Karlovac in

Roz■ lana 4,go back to thc 12th century as

CЮ atia in 1579,however,Crnomelj 10st its

well;this is whelc thc town's Original castle

,lilitary significance and prospcnty. The town did not begin to dcvelop again until

Ъ utonic knights,to thc south― castacrossTrg

1914 with the opening Of the railway

Svobodc,is a nlore rccent structure,origi―

between Novo Mesto and lKariovac. CrnOmclj Playcd an impO■ ant rOle during

nally built in 1655 witll alterations rnade in the 19th century.

Vrヽ /Ⅱ .After ltaly's surrender in 1943,the

stood.Thc Komenda(Commandery)ofthe

Thc history of thc Parish(clhurch of st

townfuncdonedforatimeas SIOvenia's capit」

Peter, alinOst OppOsite Stoniё

and WaS thc centre ofthe Slovenian National l′ iberauon council and of Partisan activity.

Ulica StanetaRozmana,also gOes back morc

(Castle On

than scvcn centunes,but whatyou'1l s(澪

)tOday

Bela Kl可 ina―

こmomelj 263

is a standard‐ issue baroque structure with a single spire.1ピ lou can still scc ltornan tornb―

試ones bu」 t mtothe w」 Is,and the tte`Ю o on ile westent extenorofSt CIhnstophet thepatron saint of travellers,was mealt to reinind passers_by that thcゝ t00,w」 ked with God.

Ju"Vla● , 亀 ″口 "`″

"

The Cothic Church of the Holy Spirit

PLACES TO STAY 2 Lahin,a Hotel

(1487)at the sOuthern end of Ulica Mirana

PLACES TOIEAT

Jarca is undergoing extensive rcnovations.

4 Mona Lisa

Klopcu

21 Go● lna M1lor& Diskot● ka M Klub

／

OTHER

、 ︲ ヽ 、 ︱ ︱

銅 碗

Suhem Mostu

ヽ

:鶴 113鴨

／ ／

10 Cmomeii CaStiυ

Bus Stop Dol● nIStt Ban饉

Korenda

Chuch o'St Pete′ 18 Picoolo Bar

19 Minn Jac House a Music Sch∞ 20 Chu「 ch orthe H。 ly spim

ノ

7 Ara Disco O MKK Disco

′

:P悲 嚇:Pnm

￨

11le nOvelist and poet Miran Jac(190042) was bOrn in thc hOuse at No 3 of the samc strcet.Itis now a rnusic school. one of me most popul″ hikes in his part Of Bela Krttina starts at the no

hcnl end of

Ulica 21()ktobra and carries on ovcr hill and d」 e for 18km nOrth―

west to Mirna Gora

(1047m).Accom_modation is avalable yeそ r ′ π′Gο ′′ ″sた ,Dο l“ ″αlイ ′ round at thc P′ α″ι (● 56 330 or● 68573). A popular whe road`ッ ″ ac`s″ ,mns "た

from Tanё a Gora, 5km south― west of CmOmelj,nOrthwad hrough Doblに ka Gora, s廿 疵nji Vrh and Ruё etna Vお O Scmiё

.T,

sOmc Of me l∝ d Bela Kttma wines,cspe‐ ciallv the Chardonnav.

Se:n:0(pop 753),9km north ofCrnomelj, is an attractive lit■ e town witll the ruins of a

castic, the 13th century Church of ISt Stephen and,to the south―east,the source

ofthe Krupa River. Special Events

CmOmelj

tStiV」 in mid‐ June Of music, dance and bonfires held at the Juゴ eVa刊 e,a thκ C‐ day

fairgrOund ncar the train sl口

ttion,is onc ofthe

rnost iinportant cclcbrations of folklorc in SloVenia ThiS iS the time Ofthe ZCleni Ju可

(Green Gcorgc),when boys dressed in greenery gO frOnl house to housc singing.

Another big event is the Rorjanovo,the

愈

ireighters'festival on 4 May.For infonna― tion about both events ang i'361000.

There=e cOncerts in CmOmelj castlc in

Places to Stay The Pο グ zι れ′ ヶcamp site on the Kolpa River iS abOut 10km nOrth― CaSt Of CrnOmel;SCe the Metlika section for dctails.

■heomyhOtelhCmOmc」 iShCmndCSC

pt

口 ｍ ｒ ＞ ス コ ＞ ﹂ 一Ｚ ＞

July and August.

264 Bela Krajina― AЮ und Cmomelj 30■ oom Lα 力Й″ (● /fax 51 141)nea the train station at iKolodvorska cesta 60. It charges 2200/40(X)SIT for singles/doubles with shared shower and 4200/6α X)SIT for vith private bath. Priccs include roorns 、 brcakfast.Thc hotcl's terrace caf6 is a pleas―

ant enough ineeting placc in wann weathc■

AROUND CRNOMELJ Lahinia Regionai Park

′

his 200-hcctそ u℃ Dark.abOut 9kni SOuth Of Cmomelj,is a protected karst Tca and the source ofhe Lttinja River,w milscnss‐ crossing thc arca.■ ヽ vo snlall swanlps in the park arc horne to a nurnber of endangered I｀

Plants and anirnals, cspecially birds like Piaces to Eat The Craて ′ staumnt in the castle at Trg Svobode 3 is “ an old― stylc catery that hasn't 7es

changed alotsincethe 1960s,and still sel、 pretty SOlidfaC・

EOrpiZZa,try

CP″

κ′ ιpι

on Ulica(Dtona Zupanё iё a ncxt to the Alfa“ disco,or iイ ″α LIsa on Kolodvorska cesta iο

opposite the post office.Another option for snそКks is thc Cο s″ ′ ″αP″ ,S“ 力 ルイ οsr′ at `“ 31olodvorska cesta 5 open daily to ll prn.

The best placeお r a med in CmOmeljis the Cο s′ j′れ α■ イ ″′ ′ cast of thc C)ld `r south― '1lown at Loё ka cesta 6 and overiooking the

Lttinja River.It closes on Monday.

of Pκ historic inds and cavcs.笏 α″議

ッ ″´ α″ (● 57347),a fttmhouse with“ stau― rant and accorninodation at house lヽ こ o22 in

DragatuS,3km■ othe no■ h‐ west,is lent stal■ ing pa・ k

an excel‐

point for walks in the park.'「

inforination centre(●

he

57428)is in

l14eliki NcraJec at housc No 18a.

KOLPA RiVER VALLEY

oα ″a cο ′ ι●θ 68

The l18km-long]Kolpa,which forms Slo‐ venia's south― eastern border with Crottia,is

versin

the wannest and one ofthe cleanest

the country.As al℃ sult,it has become a

Entertainrnent

CmOmc」 haS∞ Vel」 pOpulalatC‐

orioles,nightingales and kingfishers,and the area around Pusti Gradac is atreasurc trove

ght VenueS,

いCluding thC Att diSCO at UliCa OtOna Zupanё iё a 6, open wcckdays till inidnight and on Fnday and Saturday til1 4 anl;D,s―

たοたた2″ κ′ら江the CostilnaMiner(Loё ka cesta 6);and “ iイ κκ On Trg SvObode,which attraCts a younger crowd on Friday and Sat―

urday from 10 pm to 4 am.11lc P′

ccο あ

盆

thc stan of Ulica Mirana Jarca is the n10st popul`u・ placc in tOwn for a quiet drink.

popular recrcttional arca for swiinming, ■shing and boating,cspcciany around thc villagc of Vinica.Farther downstrcain is the village of AdleSiё i,known for its vibrant folk culture and easy walks.

Things to SeD&Do

_

In Vinica(pop 2288),the Oton iZupanё lё MemOriai CO‖ eC」 onisin thc housc a No 9 where thc celebrated Slovenian poct was born in 1878,and the towcr of the partially preScrVed CaStie froni the 16th century has

Ge"ing There&Away

an interesting(〕 Othic chapel and offers cOrn―

Departures by bus to Metlika and Vinica via E)ragatuも are frequent,with up to a dozen a day. C)ther destinations with icss frequent Ser ce includc Adlemё i(threc),Dolcn」 Ske

Toplice(onc),Gnbljc(One),Jescnicc(one at the WeCkend),均 ubjala via Scmiё

%Novo

く Ｚ 弓 く 〓Ｖ く凛Ш 鶴

Mcsto(two or threc),Mttibor via Zuお

m―

manding views Ofthe valley and Croatia.But

nloSt peOple ViSit ViniCa(WeinitZ in German)tO gO swimming,■ shing or boating on the Kolpa.

ThC ruinS Of PObre二 ie CaStie abOut l.5km no■ h‐ east of AdleSiё i(pop 938)a℃ WOrth cxplo ng.While passing through tlle

berk andLJub」 ma`one),NovoMesto(fivc),

Village of IPurga after Adlegiё i, visit the

Senllё (eight)and:乙 uniё i(three).

Cebeiar Adieも iO farmhouse at hOusc N0 5.

CmOmclj is served by up tO adozen trains

aday fromLJubljana(107km;2"hours)via Novo MCStO and Semiё . Fbur trains daily depa五 こmomelj br Karlov∝ in CЮ atia.

Thc family here are beekeepers and,whne therc is no accOmmodation and ineals are only prepared lor groups,they will be happy

to show you a・ound.They will cxplain al

Bela Krttina― Kolpa River Valley 265

things apiarian and give you a sanlple oftheir (グ Jca,horne― inade incad 唸 adα ″ι honey or a。 ″ that has a kick like a donkey.

814)on the KolPa at the southerin end of Adlegiё i(No 24a)is opcn frorn June to Sep― じmber,as is the D″ agο tt sitc(● 57787)to

thc nOrth at E)ragoSi 4,betwccn Jankoviё i and Griblic.

Activities

The Kolpa camping grOund(● 64018)in ヽ′ inica is the best sourcc Of infol・ lrlation

for

AmOng me accOmmOd江 lon

in AdlcSiё

′farmhouse(● he craら れ″″οッ

l is

57715)江

ali SDOrting aCtiVitieS in thC Frea,and there iS

house No 5.It has four roorns and is Open all

ad∝ ent

ycar.

grass beaCh a衝 ¨enttO it Zag征 ,a company with an office■ thc camp site, rents canoes and water scoOters.Thc ambi―

tious, though, wi11 look into making the Trg,20km mpid_watr kayak run frOm sta upriver,tOヽrinica.IFishing is good,especially

Places to Eat ■1lc κο′ ρa camp sit has a hll κstaurant as

well as a pub/snack bar open till ll pm

is particularly nch in grayling, carp and

weckdays and till rnidnight atthe weekend. Jご 江 ″αル″′ In the centre ofAdleHこ 1,Gο s″ ′ house No 15 is one of the oldest eaterles in

brOwn trout.′ 11le carnp site can sell you a dally ishing licencc.

Bela Krttina.Its dralring card is a large bakcr's oven thtt produccs anything from

around I)。 ltO the nOnh_west,and the Kolpa

From Adlebiё i,tWO Casy hikcs to neaby

hms a∬Ord grctt vicws Of thc Kolpa,vine‐ yards and surOunding tOwns.To gctto Mala Pleこ ivica(341m),

Walk south along a

pizzas to roast suckling pig. ,″ (● 57154)in Krasinec Gοs′ jレ ακα ′ぶ “out 2km nOr■ ofGribljc, (hOuse No 55),あ

has cxcellent fish dishes and is highly rec―

rllarked trail fOr abOut half an houn A short

Onlrnended by 10cals.It c10ses on Monday.

distance to the westis a sinkholc witll a Water

It has acCOrninodadon in six rooins.

sOurcc called Voden:ca which,according to local lore, wasl wallcd in by thc ancicnt 11lyrians. Steps lead down to the source, where you'11■ nd a large stone vault.

Things to Buy

Veilka F'ie6ivica (363rn)is about an hOur's walk nOrth_wcst of thc Adle6iё i.At the foot of the hill is a chapel dcdicated to Miary:du ng■ tacks by the■ Iks,the faith― ful hid in thc cave below it.On top of Velika Pleζ ivica is anotherchurch dating backto the

12th century. This onc is dedicated to St

Miary Magdden.

YOu can“ nt hOrses from thc RI〕 √ farm― house(● 57718)in Jankoviё i(housc No 12) for about DiM20 per hou■ ■1lerc is a swim―

mingacaonmeKdpajustsou■ ofPobκ ttje Castle.

farmhouse sellS honey,

Inead,beeswax and pollen.An interesting sOuvcnir is a vial of propolis,the sticky substancc collected from ce■ ain trees by bces to ccinent their hives.It is supposed to be an elixl■ 1｀

he RIM farnlhouse contains a gallery of

10cally produccd leather goods as well as sOme hand_wOven linen,painted Eastercggs and other folk craft.It also has a rangc of

10Cal WineS(inCluding the SWeet`iCe' vanety)and brandies in beautinllly craftcd hand― blown bottles.

Gemng There&Away BuscOnnectiOnswithCrnOmelj,Metlikaand

I｀

Novo Mesto iom Vinica are very good.

l.5 hectares and can acCOrninOdate up to 300

There are also three buses a day that pass thrOugh thOse tOwns en route to Liubjma. There are thrccbuses aday maldngthe run

peOple.The charge is 720 SIT per person,

iOm Cmomeli to AdleЫ ёi.12km to the

and thc camp sitc is open from April to 0ツ だCamp Site(● 57 mid― OCtOber ThC Jα れた

sOuth_cast, and iZuniё i,another 8km to the south‐ cast.

口ｍＦ＞ スコ＞﹂一 ２＞

Places to Stay ′ here are several carnping grounds in the arca.The κοJ′ a camp site(● 64018)on the inica 19a covers an area of about nver atヽ ア

Thc Cebclar Adicgiё

く Ｙ Ｏ 饉 饉 つく 卜 ０

StalerSka HIGHL:GHTS

It is difficulttO charactcnse Sttterska(Styria

in English,Steiennttk in Gcnnan).Though

・ Try cycling or nding in Logarska Dolina

it is Slovcnia's largest province,it(10cs nOt

have as nluch varictv as(〕Oreniska and Pnmorska.A lot of StaJerska is icld,but

O l〕

●ViSn POdSreda Caste in the Kozlansko Юglon ●View the 15th contury carved Misencordia

therC`u℃ DICntV Ofn10untainS t00,SuCh aSthe Pohor」

iSCOVer Ptul,One Of the OldeSt tOVVnS in

Slovenia

c Massif. StaJerska has morc big

farms than any Othcr part Of s10venia(hOpS

statue atthe church in Ptulska Gora O Enioy farnl holidays in the centrallPohorle region

for nlaking beer arc an iinpOrtant crOp as are

wheat,potatoes and grapes forthc prOvince's eXCellent WineS),butit alSO COntainS SOrnC Of the country's largest and rnost historical c cs and towns:MTibo■ Cclje and that

O Tour the Jo!uzalem‐ L」 utomer wine road, Wih fЮ quent dOpS,fЮ m OmЮ2b Ц 慣。 mer

little genl,Ptul.

Sttterska tts been at the crossroads of SIovenia for ccnturies and viltually cvcryOne has `siept hcrc'一 at least fOr a tinle:Cclts,

ROnlans, early Siavs, Habsburgs and Nazi Gernlan occupiers. In the 14th century thc

Counts ofCcljc were amOng hc nchest and most powcril tudal dynasties in ccnttal

EurODe and Challenged the Austrian monarchy'srule brl∝ )予 ears.ぶ erska suf‐ fered te■・lbly under the black leather boot Of

可

Nazisnlin WI and nlany ofitsinhabitants were murdered,dcported Or fOrced to work

Settlernent during thc(〕 reat Migrations.In

in labOur camps.

the Middlc Ages it bccanlc the frontier

Sorne S10venian tuidcbooks divide up

region between AusLian Styria and Hung`r―

Sttettka simplyお he`Manbor area'md● c `Cebe area'.Here We'Ve sPlit it into many

ian CrOatia,which accounts fOr the large number OfCaStleS(fOr CXample,at Podsreda,

moκ sectionsi thc Ko萄 ansko“ gion in the

POdёetiek,lBiStriCa Ob SOtli)and it beCame

SOuth― eaSt;tlle spa town of RogaSka Slatina

SIovcnia's `stOrmy corner' during the

above KoZJanSk。 ;historic PtuJ;IMaribor,

peaSant uprisings of thc 16th century.

SIovenia's secOnd largest city;thc PohorJe

Today,KozJansko remains an underdevel―

M8sif;ぬ e central city Of Cete;and the

oped region but with mucht。 。rcrtravcllers: spas,castlcs,hiking and excellcnt wine.

Upper SaVinja V」 lcy bordcring Goκ njska.

′

he geoAraphical cent,c of Slovenia is at SpOdnJa Slivna,north ofLitija in Sttterska. I・

KOZJANSKO REG:ON

Podё etrtek イア イ ´ αε ο a`● θ ・ α´ 63 ・ ′ο ・ ′ο ∫ たο″ J25イ ′ ′ I｀

he town Of Podё etrtek is situatcd less than

KozJansko is a rcmote rcgion along the

lkm West ofthe Sotla R

CaStem Side of the Posa可 e Mountans and the 80krn-long Sotla Rivet which fOnnsthe

Of land extcnding intO Croatia.Its castle, Originally built in thc 12th century,was an impOrtant fo■ iicatiOn du ng the wars with the Hungarians 300 yei霞 ・s late■ Podё et ek's

border with CrOada.It is an area of forests, rolling hills,vineyards and scattered farrns.

KozJansko's isolatiOn made it suiぬ ble for

cr On a little bump

name colnes iom the Slovene word for 266

∽ ↓＞ ﹂ｍ ■ ０ バ ＞

StaJerska 267

ヽヽ ” ０ ● “

くＹＯ匡Шつく卜∽

268 St■ erska― Koη ansko Region T'hursday― the day the rnatrkettOOk place and thc cOun sat.

Podё etitek puts inost of the einphasis on r∝ rc“ on ttesedays with ab口 ofeightp∞ Is,

he castle, the Minorite nlonastcry at OlittC and WOndeful hikCS intO the Sur― rounding hills are Podё etrtek's nlaJOr

facilities.Theindoor and outdoor pools con‐

'I｀

drawcards, but nlost people visit the tOwn thcsc days to relax at the Atornske.Tloplicc thernlal sPa a short distance frorn the centre.

sauna,steam room,solarium ald spOrts nected by an underwater passage at the ■lerinC COrnPleX alone cover an area of 2000 sq rnetres,and thcre's a section reserved fOr naturists.・The only drawback to the conlplex is thatit ovcrlooks a rathcr busy road.

C)rientation Thc ccntrc Of POdё ctllck is ∝tually the junction ofお ur roadsi to the wcst is()linlJC; tO the north― cast, the Atomske lloplice spa colmplcx;to the nOih_

0‖ mie

lhc Minone monastery 3km west

of Podё ctrtek was built as a Renalssance‐

style castic in about 1550. When Paulinc

rnonks took over what was then called

west,the castle;and to the south,thetOwn Of Bistnca ob Sotli. All buses stop atthe crossrOads as well as

VVloliinia in Gernlan about a century later,

at thc spa and dle canlp sitc.11lere arc three

Assumption,which retains its original

tr`un`stations'.For the town centic and the

ceiling paintings in thc presbytery and the

Castlc,gct or at`Podё ctrtck'. `Atomske

unbelieVably Ornate(ChaF照):Of St Francls xavier. on the ground n。 。r of one of the 'S great― four corner towers is the rnonasteつ ′ est treasure;a17tll century phannacy_the third oldest in Europc― panじ d wiぬ rcli‐ gious and medical scenes.10ne of thc best ones shows the cunning scrl)ent tempting a rathcr plump Evc with Adam in attcndance.

Toplice'is good forthe hotel,Atomska Vas and the'Ilenne pool colmplex. `POdё et」 tek ■loplice'is the con・ ect stOp for the cainP Site.

Inbrm■ ,on■ le hotel(●

stafF atthe AЮ mske Topli∝

829∝Ю;fax 829 024)can mswcr

qucstions, ■lakc bookings and change

they added the baroque Church of the

rnoney「 Fhc post onFice,opcn fron1 8 al■ to 6 pnl and till noon on Saturday,is at Trゞ ka

The church ald the ph′ rmacy a・ e opcn■ 10

cesta 23,about150m north ofthe manjunc―

Adnussion is 2(Ю /1(X)SI「 for adultylchildren. lheJe2ovnikDeerFar:η l(Jelenov(〕1℃ ben;

tion on the lcft.IttOO has exchange facilities.

anl,3 pm and 4 pnl dally,exceptWcdnesday.

● 829C46)江 house No 90 is abOut 5∞ Podcetitek castie'I｀ hc giant castlc on the hilltop to thc north_wcst Of town is not the

m

along thc maln rOad above thc monastery.

Ongind One.Thtt was built by the Kぶ ko

Horse RId:ng Somc 2.5km on thc road tO

bishops in thc 13th century but razed in the

C)lirnJc and anothcr 500■ l south is the Arnon

15th century during the wars with the

Riding Cent“

Hungarians.■ 1le

horses for both beginners and the advanced.

prescnt castle、 vent up sorne

(●

829042)at01imje23 with

tiine in the inid-16th century but it tOO was

All hour in the paddOck cOsts 150()SI「

badly darnaged― this tilne by an eallhquakc

in the OpCn COuntryside costs 2500 SIT per

in 1974.The castle can be easily reached On 100t by a trail from town ina・ kcd`Grad'.

hOur and half‐ hour lessons arc 30(Ю

Along the way you'1l pa,sthc Church of St Lawrence with baoque frescocs inside. AtOFriSke TOpliCe Though a senOuS the“ nal spa in its own right(the 28° to 36° C wateris ill of magnesium and c」 cium and K)cOm_

mended for

ose recOvering from surgery Or trying tO Cu“ rheumatiSm),thiS`he」 th and hOliday l℃ so■ 'about 12(Ю m no■ h‐ cast Of

,nding SIn

Hiking&Cyc‖ ng Some ofthe most ewad‐ ps in Slovenia cal be made in this a“ a and the l:18,(XЮ ‐ sc」 e Pο グびι ′ ″ た。 Arο ″sル 乃 ヮ′ ′ ε 万s′ Map `ι lists dozens Of cxcursions`乃 for“walkers, ′ ing hikes and bikc t

cyclists and inountain bikers. he casiest Walks on inarked trails take an hOur Or twO I・

(thOugh thC Cil℃ uitous one north― cast to the

hilltop Church of St Enllna lasts abOut four

Podこetrtek Area ゛

ヽ

ヽ

6

ヽ

Cヽ 0

0

゛

や

Bus Stops "0″

輌 pSm 合 蹴 籠 `歯 」

SL'“ ▲

′ “

ra f)°

Aoinsb Topll∞ Hdel&ln,oma“ n At鰤 「sb Topl,∞ TⅢnS● on B¨ S∞ 3 Spa Compl● x

Atomska Vas Buncalows

:糧

棚臓 Tは in s¨ n

hours)and therc are bicycle Юuts al the way to lく ozJc, Podsreda and RogaSka

got a gucst card,you can take thc shc,ltcut to

Sl江 ina.The

cOvers an area of two hectares and can

more demalding mountan bike

′

the spa through ([〕 roatia! rhc canlp site

routes head north to the forest― covered Rudnica IIills in the 600m range,but there

accOrnrnodate 500 guests.It's far enough off the maln road andthe train line running ciose

are somc easier ones down through the

by dOesn't get much usc.Fbr the E)M14 or

01il■ lJe

DM16(seasond)chage,campers get o use

forest and through the vineyards of Vllも tanJ,Selo and IIneno.

the siげ sthrec outdoorthennd poolsぉ

wcll

of the inain spa cornplex on the edge ofthe

as the pools at the spa complex.The cainp sitc is open from Mayわ August. The staff at the reception desk of the Atomskc・ Iloplicc hotel have a list offan lles ′瀾 00″s in Podё el」 tek and otticring′ r′ ν α′

Soda River;ifyOu'Ve checked in and you've

Sodna Vas,2k■ l north of the spa cornplex.

ει canp Piaces to Stay The A′ ο″sた P′ 」 `7♭ 829∝Ю;fax 829 024 for dl accom― mOdadOn atthe Spa)iSJuSt under lkin nOnh site(●

∽ ↓＞ ﹂ ｍ コ ∽ バ ＞

Sttcrska― Koη msko Rcglon 2の

くＹＯ〓口﹁く卜０

270ぶ 可erska― Ko司 ansko Region P

cesrange fronl between E)M15 andI)M20

pcr person per night.Tlle narnes also appear on the Pο ′ご αrr教 ‐ Arο ″sル し P′ ′ θ ′乃 ″sr

MαP if you wantto do your own hundng “ Or ′ check the facilities in advance. rhe Other pnvate rOOms On thelistarein Hanna Zlaka, a hop overthe naばow Sotla and a few paces

610086)topointsofintercttmthearea,includ― ing Olimje(250 SIT per person),KozJans鳳

Pak(650 SIT)and Vlき ねnj(4(Ю

SIT).

Podsreda

inslde c;rOatla.rhe“ )ls no bordercheck here.

p 672・ α ´ ′ αε ο ●θ63・ ′ο s,ご ο ′′,257 ・ ′ο `′ 1fyou'κ heading south toBizeljskO,B“ Zice in Posattc orto DolettSka,bc sut to stOp試

The Arο l"sta lを ∫ is a tourist`village'

Podsreda about 20krn south― west of

south‐ west of the nlそ un hotcl that does not

Podё ctrtek, site Of the best preserved Romancsque castle in S10venia.(〕 etting to Podsreda from Podё etick is tncky if yOu don't have your Own wheels:catch the bus

look unlike an Arnedcan suburban develop‐

ment;if tha's wh■ you want the“ 額・ e25 houses with 136 apartinen毯 .Onc for two peOple (inCluding kitChen, bathrOOrn and

to KozJe,change there forthe one headed for

bedЮ om)costs between DM70 and DM94,

Bislrica Ob sOtli and descend at POdsreda

depending on the seasOn. The 150‐ room Arο″sた ′2,P′ たιhotel is a strangc, five‐ storey structure with roofs

also stops heK)..The castlc is perched On a

sloping offcvery which way andhas recently

been renovatecl. Singlcs in this expcnsivc placc start at E)M90 orE)M95,dcpcnding on the season,(loublcs at I)M138 or I)M146.

village.The bus between KrSko and Celje 475nl hill south of the village. A rough, winding road(5kl■ )leads to the castlc,but yOu can reach it via a lに ,latively stccp 2kin

trail from Stan Trg,lcssthm lkm southtast of Podsreda village.

POdSreda Castle(Herberg in German)

T'he hotel has its own indoOr therinal p001.

Places to Eat Gο

sr′ J″ a

CF′ J′ at No 10 ofthe

main Юad(ZdraViRka∝ Sta)¨ ЮSS frOm thcentrance to the canlp site is apopulargrill

looks pretty inuch the way it did when it was builtin about 1200.Abarbican on the south‐ ern side,with walls sorne 3nl thick,lcads tO a central cOu yard.■ hc r。 。ms in thc casue

rcstaurant frequented by local Slovenes and thcir Croatian neighbours.The vine― covcrcd

wings,some with beaincd ceilings and

telTaceislovely on awannevening.Gbs″ ′ ″α A″ ο″ at the nding centre(01imJe 23)has

glaSSW。 まs exhibit(crystal from Rogぶ ka SIatina, vials fronl the ()linlJe phannacy, grccn Pohor」 e giass),but the tiny Rolnal‐ escue chapelis worth the wait,and tllere'sa wonderful collcction of prints of StaJerska's

better food,but it can get very crOwded in the evening.

Getting There a Around Up to eight buses a day cnlise by Podё etrtek and Atomske

・ 1loplice

on their way to lBistl■

ca Ob SOtli and

Celje.You can also cach KozJC(One bus a day), Maribor(three), lRogaSka Slatina (thκ e)and VirStanj(One).

ancient chandeliers, now cOntain a dull

castics and l■ onasteries takcn from 7bpο gぉ′ ″た (1681)by Georg ′力 D“ εα′sS′ 」 “ 96).Thc view frOm Ma■ 加 s Vischer(1628‐ :′

the castlewindows Ofthe sur“ )unding country‐

side and the pilgrirnage church on Svete (3}。

Podёetrtek and AtolTIske・ Iloplice`I・ e on

町C)With Kumrovcc in Croatia.Up Ю six tainsleavc the rail line linking Celje(Via St鯰

the inain Podё ctrtek statiOn evcry day for Celje(47k■ 1;45 nlinutes)with one departing

for Kumrovec in Croaia via lmenO. lou can call a taxi on● 829 382 or● 813 lκ

924.'I｀ here's also a van service available at

Atornske・ roplice hotel reception or directly ■om me d ver(● 823 122 or moble,“ "―

re aboVe BiStnCa Ob Sotli a“

)superb.A

Music」 Summer festivaltakes placc in July and August. ・ he castlc is open May to Septcnlber evcry day,except Monday,fronl 10 am t0 6 I｀

pnl and to 4 prn in April and()ctOber lt is closed in winter.「 Fhe ent・ y fec is 50〔 )/350 sI′ r.If yOu've built up an appetite clinlbing

up and down thosc hills, there's a srilall gostilna called P′ Jル イ αr`jれ in Podsreda village that has a vinc― cOvered“terrace.

Ko4anskI Park,some 2.5km nolth―

cast

Of POdsreda at Trebё e,hOnOurs tllc Palnisan

ハ″ VVII and the pivotal role effort during ｀ played by JOsiP'ritO.TitO was bOnl in the CЮ adan vinage of KumЮ vccjust overthe

Orientation ・I'he hcart of lRogagka Slatina is the spa complex,an attractive― andそ Ichitecturally irnportant― group of neoclassical,Seces―

siOnist and Pleё

nik― style

buildings

bOrder f,Orn iBistrica ob Sotli in 1892 to a

surrounding a garden.lhis is called iZdra―

SIovenian mothcr and a Croatian fathcr

viliζ ki

ROGAも KA SLAriNA

thc nOrth and nonhcast arc late 1960s and

trg or`Hcalth Resort Square'.′ rhe unttrttiVe hOtClS and■ rap」 a building tO

ο グ′325θ αε ο グ´●θ6J。 ′οs′ε ・ ′。 フ8586 o α′ “ Rogぶ kaSlatinaisSIovenia's oldestandlTgcst

197C)s vintage and not in keeping with the rest of the lovely square.

spatown,a ven● ble`cure factory'wi■ 1」 mo飢 a dOzen hOtels,therapies ranging from`pearl

btts'to dredm_sounding lymph d

n呼

'

and sorne 30,000 visitors a ycat lt's an

Rogaも ka Slatina's bus station is sOuth of Zdravilヽ ki trg on Celjskacesta,not far from the post officc.「 he train station is about I・

30()nl f`uther south on Kidrlё eva ulica.

attactivc place set among scattcrcd lorests

in theお Othills of thc Maceu range,whose twO highest peaks,Boこ and I)onaё ka Gora, are visible frorn the centrc.・ 「 he border cross―

ing into Croatia at Rogatcc is 7krn to the east.

information The helpful tounst ofice(●

8115731:fax

8115733)at ZdraviliSki trg l is open weck― days ycar round fron1 9 am to 5 pnl and till

Legend tells us tha the magnesium― nch spring was discOvercd by the Muses'wingcd horscPcgasus whcn Apollo adviscdthe steed

noon on Saturday.

to eschew thc `inake bclievc and glitter'of

On Saturday it closcs江 11.30 am.Other‐ wisc,try the Sreё ko cxchangc orice(宙 813

the magic IIil)pOcrene fountain on Mt

Bmka Ce」 c is at● d“ eva

ulica 5 and is

opcn"om 8 am to l pm and l.30b5pm.

HelicOn and drink instead at Roltschocrene.

340)in the little pavilionJust opposite(open

And the rest is history. マViell,not really. Whilc it's true that the

weckdays fron17.30 anlto 6 pm,on Saturday

spring was knownin Roman times,Rogaも ka

Ce」 c atndriё evaulica3 has exchmge facil― ities and is opcn weekdays from 8 anl to 7 pin and till noon on Saturday.

tili noOn).'rhe post office next doorto 13anka

Slatina didn't l■ ake it onto the rnap until

1574 when the govenlor of Styria,oneや Vlolf Ungnad,took the waters on the advice of his physician.Acentury later a publication enti― tled Rο ′ ′ scみ ο ε´ ′″′ exarnined the curative properties ofthe Slatina springs and clainled tllcy had helped thc ailing viceroy ofCroatia.

月he ncws spread toヽ rienna,visitors,talted

Ro9aこ ka Spa nrst and fO“ mOst,thc minerd water(c」 led

DonatiMg here)is for d nking.The stur is bottled and sold throughout Slovenia for

to`1lTive in droves and inns were opcned.lBIy

both curative and iefreshrnent purposcs,but you might find the rcal thing hcre a bit too

the early 19th century RogaSka Slatina

salけ

I・

(Rohitsch‐

Saucrbrunn in Gcrman)was an

brornide,is saidto elilninate stress,aid diges‐

established sPa town.

・I'oday this `Vichy of Slovenia' is as

popular as a recreational and beauty leso

and mctallic.The water,which as。

contains calcium, sulphates, lithiunl and

tion and stimulate weight ioss.Thc as

magnesium a10ne,I was told,regulates 200

it is for hcalth treatrncnts, with a host of spO■ ing facilities available. But Rogat∫ ka Slatina is going through a lot of changes at present― in the process of being pnvatised and sold,in fact― so standards inay not be

bOdily funCtiOnS(mOSt Of WhiCh l didn't knOW WCrC WOrkingお r mC).

as high as they once

Tlennpel,which was built in the carly 19th

、 vere. IIiking and

cycling in the area is Panicularly good.

You can engage in a`drinking curc'ofyour

own at the Pivnica,the round,glassed―

in

building just beyond the gazebo‐ like ∝ntury

atЮ

vehec"廿 dSl

nasp

ng.A pass,

∽Ｈ＞ ﹂ ｍ コ ０ ス ＞

StaJerska― Roga6ka SIatina 271

くＹ∽〓日﹁く卜∽

272 Stttcrska― Rogぶ ka Siaina

口 轟0●餞 da外 ∞stt DMlQ butbes嘘 W“ Vi∝ m鮨 Ⅲ Ⅲ hm●■● G″iヵ b″ D″ ′ Й_you w。.1“ it P′ “ Plvnlα B Open■ ly wmt"ovげ iL Thc““

yOu f。■ 。

彙om

7am■ol,m “ and froin 3 to 7 PnL

■鸞 cen能 of td“ on“ the 8P■ 8● E ng wheie uo“ mmり ■0田p["bun“ “ pem bathsaに 、 ing tェ m md tlo8elymphs ●hudder)配 be呻 譴n… V菌 1“ Dona ho● 18■d the 2aravibる Oe bun“ ng wi● 」 ヒ,Gmnd botl● eκ b ab“ uty∝ ntre Srr), 田 wen彗 鐘 lndooith輛 譴 m● de 田un■ sMm i∞m md,m.An "ol(7∞ 12‐

swinlnung ipool cornplex is under construc‐

tion next to the modem Sonce shopping ccntre at Ccljska ccsta 7.

′ he forrner adrninistration building at I・

Zdraviligki trg 4,thc oldcst struicture at the

spa houses the little Museum of Graphic Arts(Muze」 Grafiё nc Umetnotti),a collec‐ tiOn Of ctchings and drawings fronl the 16th

to the 19th centunes that was donated by a satisicd Swiss padent nained Kurt Millcr lt's open onTuesday,■ Ъursday and Saturday

Only,Om 10 am till noon and ioin 2 to 6 pnl.Enぼ ancc is 2(Ю SIT.

Ｌ ｌ ６ ７﹁ Ｐ

ｍｍ  ︲

“ ｍ 団 団 枷 師 Ｓ Ｅ 晰 廟 騒 飩 鰤 Ｃ Ａ

:霊 」 ‖ 諸晶

ilding

SWna H●

,鵬

:lj昌

ol

辮

PLACES TO,EAT

鶉¨ 躙 嚇 輛

2 Soい o● Gost‖ na

l:記 :[ヽ 」 鑑1評

■ ■ lina ′

26 Bre

Graohl●

Ans

18 7ou“ t Ofnce 20 Pogaz Pub

2 Stoklama Ro9aO踵

23露 舗肝

)

25 Banka Celie 27:[誌 Exch田 90 鵠

30T“ in

Stauon

〓 ヽ ■″

〓

14 Musoum o(

Ａ ６︽ ＠

ｍ３４ ５８９”︲ ２

28 Go● 1lna Boho「

Rogaska sIItina

Other Activities

every tヽ vo to three days at 8.3C)prn fronl latc

Thc sports cent“ (● 8116386),a couple of hundl℃ d■ letres east of thc Donat hotel and up the hill,has six outdoor and four indoor

Junc to late Septembcr・ he tounst ofFice or 「 the tstival information orice(● 8116424) on the 2nd noor ofthe:乙draviliSё e building

tennis coul■ s available for hil℃ .Pnces range

(zdraviliζ tt trg l l)win pЮ vide you with alist.

from DM13to DM25 depending on whether you're outside orinside and the time Of day.

Piaces to Stay

AIacquet and balls costs E)M3,and thcre'sa squash court for hire atiDM7.Bicyclcs cost E,M6/10ノ 13 pcr hour/half day/day.There's

The tounst ofice can arrange′

alSO nunig。lt table tenniS,arChery and lawn bowling.′ Illere's a new nine― hole pitch and

Putt course (● 811 6479)open daily in surniner on《 〕 esta na 13ellevue. South of the sport centre on Janina Hlllis a tiny ski slopc with 3kin of trails and two

tows.A day pass costs about 1200 SIT;skis, poles and boots`rc anothcr 800 SI・ ■ Thcrc arc 10 marked tralls which fan out

彙om RogaSlka Slaina into the sunounding hills and ineadows,and the hikes can be as short as 2knl or as long as 20km.No8,for cxarnple,leads 14k■ l to thc Church(of St Fiolrian,on a hill norm―cast of the spa,and to Iン ()を ■ o,frorn

whcrc you can continue On

anothcr 4km to Donaё ka

Gora(883m).r

you wantto do it an easier way,take a bus or train to Rogttec,then walk to Donaё ka Gora

422 and DM38 fora double,depending on the seasOn I)M14 andI)M25 1or a single andI)ヽ

Ousiest time is July ald August)and the roorn category. There's a list of private accominodation in the window if the office is cIosed. It includes the frι family “ `￨`た (1● 816603)at Strina cesta 7,a couple of hundrcd mctres west ofthc tran statiOn.

With the exception of the high_priced 8114000;fax 811 4732)and Dο ″α′ (● 8113000;fax 811 3732),two enorrnous Saッ α(奮

and lllodern hotels with over 4(X)roorns at the end of ZdraviliSki trg,pnces at mOst Of

血c spa hotcls tte standard:from DiM43 to DM59 fora single with showerand breakfast and I)M67 toI)M99 1or a doublc.:Full board is recoinrnended though not mandatOry. The hotelsin the Zdraviliζ ё c(曽 8112000;

ねx8112711)― the S″ ′ 力,G″ ″′ and srЙ ο ss,%a‐ ッ ―have seen bc■ er days thOugh

in abouttwo hours.Accommodation there is at me R“″ヶ D" (宙 827 128 or mobilc ● 0609‐ 331 `ν 001)at 590nl. It's opcn on

park・

weekends and holidays fronl May to the end

(●

of January.

″ ′ να′ οο″,s

`“ in thetown and sunounding acalorbetween

`″

nlany ofthcirr()ornslook out on to tllc lovely

Ch00SC inStCad the 90-Ю Om S′ ο″

1'α

“ 81150∞ ;fax 811“ 27)at Celska cesta

l,which is central to everything. If you're in a group,yOu lnlight tryレ

In Rogatec(pop 1621),one of the oldest towns in Slovenia, there's an intercsting open‐ alr ethnographic mluseu:m with tra‐

(●

ditional Pannonian farinhouses on display.

people costing I)M130 to E)M170,depend―

The wak to Boこ (979m)nordl‐ west of Rogaζka Slatina takes about lour hours, though you can dnve as fa・ as Dり ,“ ″αBο ご “ (● 824 617), a mountain hut a couple of

ing on the season.

There's an inexpensiveら ,ル 江

kilornetrcs south of the peak.

ulica 15,open fron1 7 anlto 7 prn weckdays

Special Events

and til1 2 pm on Saturday. 1)on't expect cο ″ Jο ″ι ′ ι though. “Bο 力ο″at Kidnこeva ulica 23 has Gο s`J′ ″α

The Rogaζ ka Musical Sumincris a senes of conccrts held in the Crystal H」 1(K 並lana Dvorano of the Zdraviliも ёe,whc“ Franz Liszt tickled the ivones in 1846,and in the Pivnica.C)ther conce■ s are held`″ ′′ ″α」 r

at the Tempel paviliOn.cOncens take `′ placc

ο′ :

815 099: fax 471 652), a pension at

SIandrova ulica la with apartinents for five

Piaces to Eat Kidriё eva

fish dishes and pizzas in the 600 to 800 Srr range.′ rhc`Farmer'sPizza'(Klneё

kaPizza),

with virtu」 ly everything froln the bamya・

d

on it,is good.Thc BOhOris Open dally from 9 am to 10 or ll pin.The Pzzι ″ :α Иl力 in the

∽ Ｈ＞ ﹂ ｍ ” ∽ バ ＞

Sttterska― RogaSka Siatina 273

くＶ∽〓国つく卜∽

274 StaJerska― PtuJ

sOnce shOpping m」 l at Celjska cesta 7 and open 9 arn to 10 p■l dally is another choice.

from Rogaζ ka Siatina::Bistnca ob Sotli(OnC bus a day),Dobovcc and the Croatian border

■1lc Pο ぶaa restaurant at Zdraviliζ ki trg 23 has a pleasant tera)e for dining under the chestnut trces,but thc awful synthcsizer

(up to six a day),GolllJa Radgona(onc),

inusic lnight drive you alway.If so,head for

(four)and Radenci(onc).

Liubljana(threc),LJuЮ (■

IR.ogaぶ ka

the,Sο ″ε

`,a pleasant little gostilna with fish

dishes tt celjskaccsta 9,open ti11 1l pm. (:)ne ofthe mostpleasant places for adrink

and a snack in thc sPa cornplcx is the Kav額 ma Zagreb in what used to be the zag“ b hOtei nextto the Muscum ofGraphic

mer(two),Maibor

Ve),01mOZ(tWO),POdё Cmek(thκ e),Pmj Slatina is on the train line linking

Celje via Dobovec wim Zabok in CЮ ada, where you can change foriZiagrcb.IJp to six

ぼ譴ns

a day gO to Ccljc(36km;45 minuts)

with the sarne nurnbcr heading eastward for

Rogatcc and Dlobovcc.

Arts at Zdraviligki trg 5.It's open daily till

■lidnight.

PTUJ

Entenain:Tlent :″ α (● 814 οRο gα ぶ たα S′ α′ 」 2・ (3as′ ″ The″「 960)atthe Don■ hotel is open nigh」 y from α′ ″αZα g“ιb has 8 prn til1 3 anl.´ rhe καッ

bdiroom dancing Thursday to Sunday to ll.30 plm while on l"iednesday night the venue switchcs tO thc mOre elcgant ciヮ

srα ′

ffα ′ ′in the ZdraviliSё e.

Most visitors to Rogaζ ka Siatina spend

.′ ο ′rノ ,,α9 。α a cο ピθ●662 ・ ′οs,cο ′′225θ ^′

Ptuj,onc of the oldcst towns in Slovenia, equalS巧 ubljana in termS Of hiStOriCal impOnance.Pt可 'S COmpaCt medieV」 COに with its castle, museums, nlonasterics and churches,can easily bc seen in a(lay. But

,

thcr are so many interesting side trips ald

activides in thc area thtt you may want to base yourself here for a while.

their evenings in the spa's bars and caf6s;the P′ gα z pub a■ ached to thc PoSta lestaurant

History

and faCing CelSka CeSta iS eSpeCially

PtuJ,which,when pronounced in】 English,

popular as is the καッα α ″たJ″ g in the “ Ccljska cesta. Sonce shopping ccntre on

sounds vaguely likc sorneone spitting fi℃ )rn a great distancc,began lifc as a Rolnan■ ■li― tary outpost on the right(Or SOuthern)banik

T'here's also a couple of night clubs:the 7rs` C′

batCeljskacesta3andastripjointcaled

d′ た bencath tlle sonce restaurant.'rhe thc“ s。 ″

latcr is Open dally from 10 pnl to 4 anl.It alsO has a lnini casinO open from 8 pnl.

of the Drava Rivcr and later grew into a civilian settlement on the opposite side

called Poetovio. IJnlike so rnany other SIovenian towns,Ptu」

docsn't have to put a

spade into the ground to provc its ancient

Things to Buy

origins;′ Ilacitus inentioncd it by nanne in lhis

Rogaも ka SIatina is almost as cclcbrated for

〃,srο ″ ,α

its crystal as it is fOr its miner」

wtter.A shOwrOOin (Steklarna RogaSka)on the

early as 69 AD.

sOuthem end ofthe Poこ ta restaurantbuilding

POetovio,then the largcst Roman town‐ ship in WhatiS nOW S10Venia,lay On a ma10r road linking Pannonia and Noricunl prov‐

has a largc selection of stcmware,vases and

bOwis.Itis open weckdays froin 8 am

Ю7

` as having been in existence as

inces.Itヽ was farnous foritslargc stone bndge

p■l and On Saturday till noon(also 3 to 7 prn

spanning the l)rava near today'sE)orninican

■om May to Septcmbcr).

monastcty An aqueductbrought wttcrdown from thc distant Pohor」 c Massif.In the 2nd

Gening There&AwaV

and 3rd centuries,Pmj was the centre ofthe

Buses to Celje and Rogatec leave Rogaも ka

Mithraic cult,a ne、 ′religion with origins in Persia that was popular anlong】 Roman sol―

Siatina atleast oncc an hour.()therwise,the bus service is no rnore than adequate.1・ he

following destinations can also be reached

diCrS and SIaVeS(See boXed tCXt entitlCd

Mithra&the Gκ

at Sκ rifice).Several com―

275

plete temples havc bccn uncarthcd in the

Πlissed out altogcthcr T'hough PtuJ Was

area.

rescued fronl oblivion in 1863 when thc train to 13udapcst passcd through it, the to、 vn remained essentiany aprOvincid centre with a Gcnnan ma00rity and vcry little industry until WlVI.

IBut all this carnc to a brutal cnd whcn thc (:〕

oths attacked thc to、 vn in thc 5th ccntury.

They were fo1lowcd by thc Huns,Lango― bards,F'ranks and thcn thc carly Slavs.

The hilltOp CaStlC at Ptuj(Pettau in German)was attackcd by thc Magyarsin thc as nottakcn.PtuJ received 10th century but、 ′

Orientation

its town rights in 977 and over thc ncxt

Drava,which widens into the alllicial Ptu」

scvcral centurics it grcw i・ ich through tradc

Lake(PtuJSko Jczero)to the south― cast.′Ilo

on the I:)rava By the 13th century it was

thc south arc the llalozc Hills, anlong the best wine_growing regions in slovenia.・ r'he castle, with its irrcgular shaPC and ancient

compcting "'ith the `upstart' Marburg (Manbor),somc 26km upriver,in both crais i″ and conllnercc.・ 「 o monastic ordcrs― the Donlinicans and thc Franciscan iVIinorites― settled herc and builtilnpomantinonastenes. 11le IIungarians attacked and occupled PtuJ f(or most ofthc 15th century though each of

the half―

dozcn raids by the 'Turks were

thwarted.

VVhen the railroad rcachcd castcrn Slovenia fromヽ /icnna

on its、 vay to the coast

in■ le inid-19th century,the age― old rivalry

between Maribor and PtuJ turned one― sided ― the fornlcr was on the line and the latter

PtuJ lics on the lei bank ofthe swi■

― ■owing

wans,dOminates thc town"om a 300m hill v′ est.1｀ hough thcrc is no real CCnieto PtЧ ,much of hisЮ ricalinteκ stlies

to the north―

On Or near S10venskitrg whilc Minoritskitrg could be considercd thc gatcway to thetown.

′

Ilenne PtuJ,a spa and recreational area across the river,is a tcmpting lplace to visit on onc of F)tuJ'S Very hot surnrner days. ′ I｀ hc bus station is about 450rn nolth― cast

of Minontski trg on C)so」 nikova cesta.The train station is another 200m fa■ her along tlle sarne street.

り Ｈ＞ ﹂ロ コ ∽ バ ＞

StaJerska― Pt円

く Ｙ ∽ 匡 Ш つく 卜 ∽

276 St`jerska― Pruj

Ptui

infor口 lation

771 569;fax 773 534)is located at the bo■ om of

￢Ou‖ 」t Offices The tou

st ol『 ice(●

the City Tower a Slovensk trg 14.Itis open daily from 8 an to 6 pm,flom 8 an dllnoon ald i to 6 pin on Saturday,`md frol■

10 am

Gothic IIouse at Pregernova ulica l,is open weekdays frolm 8 ain till noon and 2.30 to 5

pm and■ 11 1l am on Saturday.SKB Banka, which h:ぉ a Cirnls‐ linked AITMi at TrstenJ‐

akova ulica 2,keeps the sannc hours as A IBIanka but closes on Saturday.

to 3 pm on Sunday.It can Organise guided tours for 5∞ SIT per"お On(m mum five people). Anyonc Planning to spend more

man a day ortwo in Ptuj should pick up a copy ofPr″ AC“ ″ Й ″(2Ⅸ ЮSID `rο `7b″ from the tou st orice.It cont」 ns a wealth .・

Of inお rina10n On Pttt and nelま

aeas.Thc Pt"Alpine Society(●

u

ng

777151) “

atiPreSernova ulica 27 ha,sinfonnation about

hiking in the area,but it is Only open on Tuesday and F day from 4 to 6 pin.

Money Nova Ljubjanska Banka has a branch nextto llc Mitra ho“ 1江 Pre“ mova ulica 6.Itis open on weckdays fron1 8.30そ un

tm noon and from 2.30 0 5pm(on Samrday 8 to ll am).A Banka,in the lovdy Late

Post&Commlunications The inan pOst office is at Minoritski trg la.Itis open froin

7 am to 7m(to l pm on Saturday)and has cxchange facilides.

Ptui CaStie

Pattof■ ecぉ decomplex datbκko血eist hdf of the 12th century(notably the tOwer On the WeSCm edge ofthe hill),but WhatyOu SeC here iS al agg10meratiOn Of Sり leS frOm the 14tllto the 18th centunes put intO place by onc anstocratic Owner after anothe■ ・ he 「

CaStle hOuSeS the C011eCtiOn Of the ptul Regiond Mu"um oni協 ■reearcddn∞ s, but atnp is wortt it h the vicws alone. As you enter me castle,you can't help but

PLACES TO STAY

Ptui Caslo&Museum

13 MIra Hotel

31

Bus St江 ion

BiStЮ Ju‖ la

PLACES TO EAT

Sima&Orel Caf6s

Markot

Late Gothic House&

Church of St Goorge

Banka

Town Ha‖ Vinska et (Wine Ce‖ ar) Motuli Disco

Lluomer House

Kino Pt可 (Cinema) Anka Trave:A90ncy

A3anka

7 Slonё ok PiZ20"a 22 Pivnica Zlatorog

10

28 Ev「 opa Caf6

11

Bistro Piramida Teater:‖

35 Ribiё Restaumnt

12

Nova Ljublianska

36

Bambusov G02d

Chinese Restaurant

OTHER

l Dominican

14 15 16

Monastery&

17 18 19

3 Little Castlo

20

Musoum 2 Amadeus Pub

Pav Nightciub

SKB Banka

Peruzzi Ponal

Super Li Hotel

St F!o

RofTlanesquo House

Forner Town Ha‖ C)rpheus Monurnent

Plague Pillar Post10ffice

Chu"h of Sお Peter

Ptul TheatЮ City■ower& ・ 口 。u st ofnce

&Paul 40

Provost's House

notice thc red-lnarblc to口 nbstone of F"Dd‐ erick V,the last 10rd Of PtuJ whO died in

an Column

41

Minorite Monasbry

Dmva■ower&Ga‖ ery

Thc 2nd flooris a g」 lely ofGothic statues

1438.It was brought here from thc Domini―

and oil pantings from thc 16山 to the 19th Cenmries.HⅣ e a100k atthe sccnc OfPtt in

can inonastery.The ground■ oor castle

wmterbyFrmcJoお fFcll∝ r(1721‐ 70).■ lcrc

contains a fascinating exhibition of rnusical instruments from the 17血 to 19th ccnm cs

is as0 0ne fЮm the early 19th century ofthc

―■utes,horns,drurns,lutes,violas,harps,

Gennan.Tい oine statues― oneofStCathenne

clavichords etc.As you approach each case,

(With a WheCl)and the Oぬ er of St Barbara (With a tOWer)― CarVed frOm SandStOne in

a tape playsthe music the instrumenttnaに ■ e lst■ ∞ ris given over Ю od m応 cκ h with itt own stylc,as wen asanimpess_ " ivc Knights'Ha‖ .The rooms a・ c trcasurc troves of tapestnes,painted wall canvases

Church of St Gcorge,marred by graffid in

,

about 1410 in mc`so■ 'Gothic style,are

Of PtuJ),pOrtrai協 ,WeapOnS and furniture left by the castle'sI`st occupants, the IIerbe■ stcins.You'1l probably notice a

amongthe museum's inost priceless posses‐ sions.(E:heck thc faces ofthc guardstorturing 〈hrlst in the crucifixion scene ncarby;they rcally sccnl to bc enJoying themselves. ′ he museurn ialso has the largest collec― tion of lllrkerie portralts in IEurope.They arc painlngs of・ urkishそ u・ istocrats,generals

coat ofanns cont〔 uning three buckles and the

and courticrs conlmissioned by Count

ino■ o`GHp Fast'in English.It bclongcd to

Johann】 :Ierbe■ stein in 1665 and Paintcd in awcstenl stylc.Paily because ofthese paint―

(maly,om Domava Casde,8km to the n。 ■h‐ CaSt

the Lcslics,a Scottish‐ Austlian fanlily who

′ owned the castle froin 1656 to 1802. Γhe buckles are sald to have been added to the family escutcheon when One Oftheir number saved a countess who had fallen intO a well byl)ulling her up with belts buckled togcthct Anlong sorne of the nlore interesting bits and pieces are the〈 [,hinoiserle dccorations

[〕

I｀

I｀

ings,・ I'urkish

dress becarne all the rage fOr a

urne in the 18th ccntury.

The museum is open from 9 am Ю 4 pm in wintr and to 6 pm in summer.Entry is 450/2∞ SIT(130/70 SIT cxtm with guide), and the ticket includes adrnission tol thc forimer I)orninican nlonastery.

and W」IPaper(WhOSe igureS haVe CuriOuS

caucぉ ian tatuFs),the beautiful pOrel」 n stoves fuelled through pipes froln theoutside coridOrs and the large coucction of clocks, including antstrononucal one fronlthc 18th ccntury,in the Music ltoo,1.

Wa:king・コ our PtuJ's(3othic centrc,with its IRenalssance and b鉗 oquc additions,is ajoy o explore on foot.It's unlikely that you'll get lost in this

small place butif you do,explanatory signs

∽Ｈ＞﹂ロコ∽バ＞

Stajerska― Ptuu 277

くＹ∽饉田つくＦ０

278 Sttteska― PtW in fOur languages(including English)will tell you where you are.The a・ ched spansthat

C:othic town ha::(1907), designed by an

le bndges above some of the naЮ w st∝ areO suppoitheold∝ buldhgs.

`new'building in PtuJ・

iook like li■

stan a walking tour of Ptu」 in Minoritskl “

trg,which has a 17th ccntury piague pil:ar

of Mary and the lnfant Jesus that was restored in 1994.Thisisthe sit ofthc Mino「 ite inOnastelγ that was built in thc 13th

century. IBecausc the Minoritcs dedicatcd thenlselves to teaching, tlle order was not

dissolved under the Habsburg edict of the latc 18tll century and it has continued to inctiOn in Ptujぉ rm。 血m seven∝ nm ∝ “ and Paul,on the ■he Church of Sts Peter .

northern sidc ofthe monastery's inner court―

yTd,was one ofthc mostbeautiful examplcs

architect frorn(]raz and the nlost beautiful

Murkova ulica,with some interesting old houses,leads wcstward to SioVenskitrg,the his funnel― shaped squarc, which is higherthan Mestnitrg,contains the lon's shaκ ofPtuj's most beadful buildings

heart of old PtuJ・

'I｀

′ hc nlost obvious structurc here is thc C:w￢ ower(Mestni St01p),bu‖ tin the 16th century as a belfry and l■ er tumed into a watch towe■ Roman tombstones and sacri■ ‐ I｀

cial altars frorll Poetovio werc incorporated intO the tower's extenorin 1830;you can still rnake out reliefs of Medusa's head,dolphins

and a man on horseback. In,Ont Ofthc City Tower stands the 5m

ofearly Gothic a・ chitccture in Sloveniauntil

Orpheus Monument,a Roman tombstonc

it was reduced to mbble by Allied boinbing in January 1945.()nly the presbytcry,With a

from■he 2nd century with scenes from the

nledieval altar and stl■ king nlodenl stalned―

Middlc Ages;the guilty were shaCklCd tO

glass windows,has been resbκ d. The a■ caded monそ 熔tcry,which dates froln

irOn rings atached to the holcs at the base.

C)rpheus lny■ 1.It was used as a pillory in the

thc second h」 f of the 17th ccntury,h`厖 two things wo■ h seeing.The summerrefectory on thc lst■ oor,which somehow inanagcd to

cscape wartime destruction and served as the chapel until recently,contains beautiful 17th

century stucco work and a dozen ceiling paintingS Of StS PCter(n。 ■h Side)and Paul

(SOuth Side).One panel depiCtS the maty← doin of poor St Stephen,who was stoned to dcath by a group of Pagans including Saul,

who was later bapised as Paul.■ lc monas―

tery also contains a rich,5000-volume iibrary Of iinP。 ■ant rnanuscnpts including

pan Of a loth century codex used to cover a

prayer book around 1590 and an onginal copy ofthcNcw Testament(1561)tansI■ ed by Pnrnott Trubar.Itis onc ofthe inost valu― ablc docuincnts of the Sloveniall patiinony. 1｀1le nlonastery doesn't have regularopening

hours,but you can nng the bellto the nght of thc church entrance and ask one of the brothers in rcsidcnce if you can visit.

If yOu Walk n。 ■hWad On Iく remplieVa ulica,you'1l soon reach Mes■ li trg,thc lec―

tangular square oncc called Flonanplalz in honour ofthe St F:orian Coiurrin(1745)in the centre.13o the east at No l is the nco―

The 2nd century Opheus Monument was used as a pi‖ ory in the Middle Ages.

Thc attractive building on the nght(No 13)

Just past the small pak at Muzcjski trg l

iS the ptul Theatre,origindly built in 1786. Until 1918 it staged iplays only in Gcrnlan.

lsthe formcr Dominican monastelγ ,Which now cont“ ns the Pttt Regiond Muscum's

The theatrc was well knOwn 10r its avanト

archaeoiogica:collection.Thc inOnastery

garde productions in the late 1930s.

was built in 1226 but abandoned in thc late

Bchind the City TOwer is the Parish

Church of st ceorge, which revcals a

18th century whcn IIabsburg Einpcror

melange of styles from the Romalesque tO

hc beaudful eastcrn wing has a cross― ribbed

neo‐ Gothic.

Rolnanesque window and Gothic cloisters

'rhe church contains soine

Joseph II dissolved all religious orders.・

I・

lovely 15th century choir chairs decOrated

with 15th ccntury frescoes of l)ominican

wim animas,acaved reliefoftte Epiphany

lnonks in theirblack and white garb.'I'here's

dating From■ 5 15 and frescoes in the nliddle of the south aislc,a15th century stonc Pieta

also a refectory with 18th century stucco work,a chapter hall and alarge Roman coin

and,in me baptism」 chapel at me start ofthe

collection.But the main reason for colTling

south alslc,the soく )alled iく onrad Laib altar,

is to see the Roman tombsЮ nes,altas and wondcrful mosaics unetthcd in Ptuj and at

a thrcc― winged alta・

pdnting■ om 1460

(pκ sently being tsbκ

d).h mc north」 slc,

under glass,is a carvcd 15th century statue of St〈 Eleorge slaying the dragon. ()n the noithern side of Slovenski trg are sevcral interesting buildings including the

16th century Provost's House with a

he Mnhraic shrines at Zgomji Brcg md SpodnJa Hajdina,a couple of通 lometκ s west of town.A guide will explain the sig― nificance of all the stones and help bring thenl to life.Apart from Mithra himself and

Liutomer House,whose Meditcrranean‐

ぬe Sol deity ttatlooks not unlike me Amer たan Stame ofLiberり ,thcκ ′ ガ s, =e the″ the wet nurses who nourished the Offsp“ “ng of Rornan allstocrats, and ancicnt Jcwish

rococo f∝ ade■ No 10, c baoqueformer town hall at No 6 and,next door at No 5,

style loge was built in 1565 by ltalian

tornbstones.The I)orninican inonastery coト

workers who had comc to Ptuj tO fOrtify it

lection is open from rnid‐ Ap

against the′ rurks. The shortcst way to the castle fr。 ln here is

from 10 arllto 4 pm on weckdays and to 5 prn on Saturday and Sunday.Entry is 200/

to bllow narow Grttka ulica,which leads

100 SI「 (130″ O SIT extm with a guide). 11lou can rcturn toMinoritskitrgby follow‐

to a covcred woodcn stalrway and thc

lto November

Renassancc Peruzzi Portal.But take time

ing E)ravska ulica to the round Drava￢ ol″ er

to cxPlore pedcstrlan Preこ ernova uiica,thc

(Dravski Stolp),a Rcndssance waertowcr

town's nlarketin thc Middle Ages.

built by ltalian workers for defence against

The Late Gothic House,dating frol■ about 1400,at No l has an unusu」

pro」 ec―

he Turks in 1551.It now houses a gallery featuring the works of thc graphic artist

tion hcld up by a black man's head.0,pposite

France Miheliё .Itis open Tuesday to Friday

江 No 4isthesombre Romanesque House, the。 ldcst building in PtuJ.The yenow pile at Preζ emova ulica 35 is the Littie Castle

fron1 4 to 7 prn only.

(Mali Crad),home to the Salzburg bishops

Tenne Ptuj(書 771721),a thennal spa about 2kmlwest oftown onthe nght(or south)bank

andanumberofanstocraticfamiliesoverthe Centu eS and“ Cently reSOred Out mrred by a neW tile r000.The building tO the West

housed a prlson frorn the 19th century. 1)unng Wい EEinany IPartisans,including thc local hero JoZe Lacko,were brturcd and dicd here. IFroln the 、 vcstern end Of PrcSernova ulica you can f。 1low the gravel path eastward tO the castlc.

Activities

ofthe Drava at Pot v Tloplice 9,is pninarlly a recreaiOnal centre with tw0 0utdOOrswinl_

ming p001S,threC indOOrthenna1 0neS(Water じmperatu“ is 32° to 34° C)and eight tcnnis couits. A full― day entrance to the pools is 850/550 SI'I｀ for adults/children, 750′

500

SIT in the a■ ernoon and 50()/400 Srr in thc evening.11【ou can also rcnt bicycles here.

∽↓＞﹂ｍコリス＞

Sttterska― PtuJ 279

くヱ∽匡Шつく卜∽

280も 可eska― Ptuj

Licences for

dOubleS)aS WCl aS mOdem″ α″″ι″な in

vcr ishing at available

iom he Anka mvelagency(雪 776020)江

larger villas accoinmodating t、 fЮ m 64∞ SIT.

E)ravska ulica 10 near tllc iRibiё restaurant.

Specia:Events lurentovanり e,al■ te of spl・lng celebrated for 10 daysieading up to Shrove■ besday,is thc most popular and tЮ st known folklore cvent in Slovenia.Ask the tounst office for details

I《

about this year's festivities. 'I｀

include thc Minorite lnonasteD′

1

in Pttt Ctttle and Ptui Theaぼ e・ Threettaditiond fttrs櫨 鳳ng placein Novi trg in PtuJ arc those dcdicated to St Gα )rge (Ju可 )in late April,St Osw」 d(0を bdt)in

rly August,ald St C■ hennc(K■ anna)in late Noveniber

eそ

Piaces to Stay The CrOWded Camp Site atthe 7と

'″ ,`P力

JSpa

771721)chargesbetween 1250and 15(Ю Sn'per petton and is open ttom May to Septemben P ces include use of the pools (●

ald Other r∝ ational facn es.Termc Ptuj “あws available(5225 to 6270 江so hasら ″gα SI′

I' for “ singles, 7600 to 9120 SIT for

to the spa,charges about thc sanlc ptice. The 22‐ roolm S“P`″ L′ ('779821;fax

Trstettakova ulica 13 is tte o hotels:b ght and dry

cheaper of Ptuj's

refeん tory,

the Church of St George,the Knights'IH」

ι The tou st office can arrange′ ′:ν α′ οο″■ ,,but they'rc not cheap(about 3()(010) “ sIT lЮ r pcrson)ald mOst ac On the Omer sidc ofthcDrttanear■ mlcPtuj.P″ 乃″′″ ('771586),江 Zadruを nitrg 13 on thc way

779823)江

here is a scptember selnes OfcOncens in

Ptui called Glasbeni Septembei Venues

″o people

singles with shower and bre」 cfast ale 5200 SIT and doubles a・ e7300 SIr.The Suy,r Li is not abad Place,butthe disco and large pub

10w may mょ e sI∝ pjust atad dimcult. ′ hoに 1(● 771281;fax “ ■le 21-room iイ ′ “ “ ulica 6 is onc of 771111)江 PE"rnova

provincial Slovenia's inore interesdng hoteis ―coinplete with Mithrac atefacts.・ ■lough the guestrooms are faldy ordinaγ ,they at cenainly lalge.Ylou can't beat the loca on but the prices are high:7(XX)S11｀

lor a single

with shower and brcakfast 9(XЮ double and 12,000 SI「

SIT lor a

for a suite.

P:aces to Eat

TheEッ οPais asmdlresmurantcumcafじ

an 18th“cenmry town housc a Mcstnitrg 2.

in

It's opcn daly fron1 7 am to 9 pnl and on

season at 8 pm.The κ′ ″οPrガ

Sunday from 9 aln to 8 pnl.

in Cvetkov trg has a couple of scrcenings a

S′

ο″ &bChind an interCSting marblc

fountain`ιat PreSernova ulica 19,scrvcs pizza and some meatlcss dishcs every day frorn 9 am to 10p:n.PJッ ′Jεαzιarο οg at slomζ kova ulica 20 also has pizza and “ is open weekdays fron1 9 arnto 10pnl andon Sunday iЮ nlnoon.

Grり stα κανα α inぬ c casde courtyard serves dnnks and“ snacks weekdays from 9 am to 9 pm and■ weckends till ll pm. One of the best restaurants in PtuJ,With excellent food, service and location, is the R′ b」 びfacing the nver atiDravska ulica 9.The speciality herc is ish― especially boiled or iicd"out(1225 SIT)― and thcir mushЮ

om

('773326)

day,usually at 6 and 8 prn. Pregenlova ulica has several decent l)ubs and caf6s,including S″ ″ α」 (lα ッ αβα′at No 3,

0ィ リ 江 No 5,β お′οJ“ ′ ヴα at No 20■ ld, “ opposite the Little Castle,A″ αグ′sat No 36. “ The large pub at the S“ ′ L′ hotlis olEn `′ daily fron1 9 anl till mi《 inight. Another

popular watcnng holc is Bぉ ′。P′ α″′ a2at

“ ulica,ol"n “ the northen,cnd of Jadranska from 9 pm tilllat.

There's a disco canedル

′ケ江 CVetkoV

`′ “ trg,which can be re`К hed by waking sOuth along Canka■ evaulicafrorn PreScコ nova ulica.

and scalood soups(350S11)arccxccptional.

■'so"n on FHdγ and Saturday mm 10pm o 3 am.The Paッ 江UHca Viktorina Ptujskega

rthe Oi1 0n mc salad tastes Odd(nutり

4 is anightclub fora moκ

SmOky)th誠

,a li■ lc

.slcそ

EycrOwd,with

ed Oil Plain Ouё no olje),a slttciality of the Drava “

a`nude show'on Friday at 10 pm.

region and avallable in nlost shops.Ribiё

Getting There&Away

'S bCCauSC it'S pumpkin‐

,

which has a group playing Slovcnian folk muSiC SOme niま tS,iS O"nfЮ m llam t。 11 plll(● 1110p■ 1 0n Sunday). PtuJ now boasts a Chinese rcstaurant,thc

βα″b“∫ οッ Gοzグ opposite the Ribiё

(Bamboo Grove)」 most atiE)ravska ulica 7.Sta■

1‐

ers are 250 to 450 SIT,main meat dishes likc crisPy duck cost 1290 SI′ r,vegetable oncs about 790 SI・ ■

И″sた α

″ (● 772821)at Tstenjakova

ulica 10 is thc place to go if yOu wantto buy or tastc(13(Ю Srr fOr up t0 10 tyFЮ S)Wine― it's()ne of thc largest cellars in Slovenia.If

you can't nlake it to thc wine― grOwing い egions to the south Or east,trv sOine Haloze

Chardonnay,Sipon or Lぶ kr Rizling here. T'hc cellar alsO has stOcks Of zlata「

rrta,the

`Golden Vinc'sweet wine daing frOm 1917. It is the oldest vintage in Slovenia.The `WinC Ce■ ar'iS Open weckdays from 7 am

Bus Buscs are frequent fr。 ■l PtuJ tO Cirkul‐

me,

dttevo,Maribo■ M可 こ

md POljё ane,but count on onlyぁ Out a haf "rk,Orinoを

dozen on S■ urday and fa fcwer on Sunday. Otherdestinations andtheirdaly frequen‐

‐ cies include Apttc(11),Celjc(onc viaMa bot three via Pragersko,two via Rogaζ ka Slatina),コ ublma(one via Maibot two via Pragersko or two via Rogaζ ka Slatina),

LJutomer(s

),Murska Sobota(Onc),

Pragersko(two),Rogaζ ka Siatina via Roga‐ tCC(threC),S10VenSka Bistrica(■ VC)and Vurberk(tW。 ). ′ 「 WO buses a week (on Monday and

Friday)head br Grazin Aus

a.For desti―

nadons in(Croatia,count On six buses a day tO V征 琵din and hreCtO Zagreb(ViaV証 琵 din or K:rapina).

to 7 prn and on Satllrday till nOOn.

Train You can re∝ h PtuJ up to a dozen timcs

and nlore on Novi trg.It's open daily frorn Very early in the morning to about 3 prn.

hours)via Zidani Most and Pragersko.1[Jp to

・rhere'sa′ ″α′ たιr selling fnlit,vegetables

a day by train from LJubuana(155km;three nine trains go to Manbor(37knl:one hOur). Fourtrains a day head fOrMurska SobOta via

Entertainrnent 7を α ′ ′ rrat SIovenskiぼ g10ppOsite the City

C)nnoを

`′ TloWer StageS aVant‐ garde prOduCtiOnS(Cg PsЙ a by Emil Filipё iё )mOst weckdays in

Ge

.

ng Around

Book a taxi on雪

786171

∽↓＞Ｃｍ■∽ス＞

StaJerska― Ptuj 281

く Ｖ Ｏ 〓 田 つくＦ ０

282 Stttcrska― Around PtuJ

AROUND PTUJ

Statcnberg was builtin the first halfofthe

Ptuiska Gora

1 8th century not far froni the site(of anc)ther

′ ε で χ′ ´2323 pノ ′ tt ε ο ●θ62・ ′ο∫ J6・ α ・ ′ο `´ ■he pilgrimage Church ofthe Virgin Mary westofPtuj, in this village somc 13km sou山 ― COntainS One Of the mOSttreaSured OtteCtS in Slovenia― a15th century caurvcd Misericor‐ dia of the Virgin Mary and the Child Jesus sheltering both rich and poor under an enor‐

mous cloak held up by seven angels.「 rhe carving,which is above the inain altar,is as important an histonc documentを s itis awork ofa■ .Among the lifelike faces of■ lc faithful

ac tte Counts ofCeljc(Fredenck II and thc thec HcrmanS).It riValS the altar C"Ving

(1489)by VVit Stwosz in Krak6w's Church of Mary forits gracc and beauty. ｀ ■he church itself, built in the late 14th ccntury,is the llnest exanlple ofa threc― (:〕

nave

othic church in SIovenia.Among some of

the other treasures insidc is a sindl woodcn statue(of S,t Jannes on one ofthe pillan,on

the south aislc, 15th century frescoes of Christ's Passion,underthc poК h ald b thc

castle that had becn occupied and razcd by

Slovenian and ([:roatian peasants undcr MatijaGubecin 1573.It was designed by an ltanan achitect for the Attems family. Thc manor consists of a landscaped cent劉 courtyauld encloscd by two side wings andthe

central bu]ding.()n the giound ioor of the later is an arcaded hall with ba・ oque stucco work;seven residential rooms and the lovely Great Hail al℃ on the lst noo■ The Great H」 lhそs a fre∝ oed cciling with myぬ ologic」 sccncs as well as statues ofGrcek andRoman gods in the corners,「 Fhe other roorns contain

carved armoires,rugs,19th century po■ralts and a bed in which E.:noress Mana■・heresa dり ,Samrdり on∝ sI"t Stacnbergis open F and Sunday"om ll am tilldarkЛ lle ent枷 ∝ fec is 20()/150 SIT for adults/childrcn.

lhe g″ ωttο O′郷.(雪 818 916 or● 830308) 120pじ rIЮ rson

are in■ c wcstwing andcostD

or DM100 foran apatmcntaccommodaing

nght as you cntr,mediev」 pantings of

nine peoplc.Thec's also a sm」 l restaurant in the main building.The surounding park

saints,including StNicholas and StDorothy.

has four sm」 1■ shing ponds,and there are a

Thc abstract stained glass windows date

couple of other restaurantt in the aca.The one

frorri this centuly.I´

ook behind thc inodern

tabernacle in tllc chapcl to the right of the maln altar for frcscocs of St Pcter and St Michaelthe Al℃ hangcl.

The chuК h,open dany in summerfrom 7 am to 7 pm and to 3 pm in wintet perches atop BI∝ kH‖ 1(Cma Gora),an easy 10minute walk iom where the bus hcadcd for

on the main road across frorn the entrance to

the CaStle iS CalCd Cο ∫ ″腸α ル

ο′ ThC

`α “ housc No other,Gο s′ ′ ′ ′ tα L`Jα たκ α″J,is at 36in Makole,a village on the l)ravinJa River about l.5km to the south‐ west. Statenberg cm be reached on thc Poljё buS frOm Pt可 ・

me

Maメ perk wnl let you off.Thc Galerija

Wine Routes

Palcta,to the norlll ofthe church at housc No

PtuJ is within casy striking distance of two

38,has some inte“ sting anwork and sou― venirs for sale,and thec'sasm」 le■ ery

important winc_growing areas:me Ha:。ze

called Gο

D′ αgJca at No 37.

s′ Jぶ

`ι

もtatenberg ′ a cο ′ ´■.θ62 ・ 2ο ∫ cο d`2322 ・ ′ο ′′73 。ασ “ west ofPtuiska Corain the About 9kln south― DravinJa Valley is Statenberg,sitc ofan 18th century baloque manor house.lhe rnanor h:鵜

impressivc stucco work,frescoes and rooms ful1 0f antiquC(if m。 血― e■ en)imituκ and tapestries,butthe nlain rcason for corning is to spend the nightin a castle― on a budget.

district and■e Jeruza:em‐ Liutomer dis― trict..They are accessible on foot,by car and, best of all,by bike. T・ hc Haloze Hills extendうor about 30krn from Makole south― west of Ptuj Ю Go配 ak

on the border with Croatia.Thc footpath taking in this land of gentle hills,vines,corll

and sunΠ owcrs is called the H」 oze Trall (H」 。こka POt)and iS aCCCSSible frOm near Statenberg Manor.But it's much ettier to pick up the trall near Bori Castle, 1lkm south‐ east of Pt町 ・

Sttterska一

Borl was originally built in the 13th

Maribor 283

History

century and feli to the Hunganans until the

Maribor has been inhabited continuously

late 15th ccntury. It changed ownership

since the Neolithic period,but it did not rise

again and again and was used as a detention centre both by the Nazis and then the corn―

to prorninence untilthe Middle Ages when a

nlunists aftcr the wa■ It was even a hotel and

Piranlida,a hill north ofthe present‐ day city,

much hcrc but an old baroque altar in a disused chuК h and afew Ku“ nt masks scat―

to protectthc I)rava Valley fronl llc Magyar invasions.The settlemcnt that later devel― opcd along the rivcr was given town status

tered about though concerts are somctimcs

in 1254.It grew wcdthy through me timbcr

held in the cou■ y=d in summer Thel℃ 'sa

and winc trade,financed to alargc dcgree by the town's Jewish colnmunity,andthe wateト ct frOnt landing(P stan)in the Lent dist

′ restaurant for a whilc. 1loday there's not

smallrestaurant ncarthe entance whcrc you can try the local IIaloを an wine,and the sur―

fortrcss called Marchburg was built on

rOunding parkland (With an unOffiCial

became one of the busiest poll:s in the

Canlping grOund)iS IoVely.

country.

A、

road called the Wind Rattle Route

(after the unuSual Wind― pOWered nOiSC― ο makers calledた ′ ′οた,which arc used to sCarcthC CrOWS aWay'Om thC VineS)f0110WS a50km course from PtuJska Gora Ю Zavに via Dolena,Gorca and thc inc town of Ciト kulanc.Ask the tounst ofice in PtuJ for a

map.

The JCruZalem― 巧 utOmCr WinC rOad and continues lor 18krn north to Ljutomer(pop 37(Ю ),the main sea

begins at()rnloを

in the area, via the hilltop village of Jeruzalenl.There arc quite a few cellそ

rs and

small restaurants」 ong the way,esPCCidly

around lvanJkovci, whcre you can sanlple

′ any of the rcgion's local whitcs. Γhcy includc thcん な κ ′ cell肛 (奮 714∞ 1) “ 63). in Veliё ane(house No

Thc town was fortincd with w」 Is in the 14th century to protect it irst against the llungainans and then the'rurks;fOur defence tOwers still stand along the l)rava.′

]「

hough

its fortunes declined somewhat in later cen―

turies_thc Jews were expened iom thc town in the late 1400s and it competed in commcrcc with Pt可 ― most of the town's impo■ ant buildngs wcre ccc“ d thcn. The tidc turncd in 1846 when the railroad

iom Vienna reached hcre― the irsttown in Slovenia to have train connecions witll the

and by 1861 three inain routes linking vlenna,Budapest and'rrieste intersected at Pragersko to the south. 'I｀ hc town,by thcn known as Maribo■ bCCarnc thc iinperial capital―

centre of SIovenc‐ speak:ing Styria,a kind of

MAR:BOR

counte卜 balance to Cerman Cr":in Austna, and began to industrialisc.・ hc bishooric was moved iomも ent Andraを (now St Andranea

Though itis the nation's second largest city, Maribor counts icss than half the populatiOn

began publication.

"″

I｀

pノ ,イ て りθ ′ a cα セ ●θ 62 ・ ′ο ∫ ′ ε ο ′θ2(χ Ю ・ α´ ・ ′ο

Of ttubljana and,frankly,fCCIS mOrC like a large provincial town than north― east Slovenia's cconornic,cornrnunicatiOns and cultural centre.It has the country's Only uni―

versity outside the capital and bOasts an

ゝζ olお berg in Austna)to Maribor in 1859,

and two inlportant Slovenian ncwspapers Maribor rcmaincd Slovcnian within the Kingdorn ofScrbs,Croats and Slovenes after VVヽVI,duc to the effo■ s of General Rudolf Maistet and it continued to devclop in the 1920s and 1930s.But the air raids during

iinportant inusculTl,a nunlber Of gallenes,a theatre built in 1786 and aFl a■ raCtiVe(Dld Town dongthc Drava Rive■ Maribor is also the gatcway to the Maribor PohorJe,a hilly

V√V√ IIi

recreational area to the south―

west,and the Slovenskc Gonce wine‐ growing regiOn tO

SIovcnia's nlost`proletそ uian'cities.Much of

the north and the east.

that is still evident froni the factones and housing estates south of the()ld Tlown.

devastated the city and by 1945 two

thirds of it lay in ruin. New areas 'werc opened up on thc right bank of the I:)rava,

and in thc 1950s Maribor was one of

甘

く︼０匡Шつく卜∽

284 Stttcrska―

Maibor

Orientation ′ ヽ Iaribor sits on both sides ofthe E)rava River

Slomζ kov trg 10.It's open from 7 am to 8 pin on weckdays and ti11 l prn on Saturday.

but dlc iLent waterfiront area and other pals

ofthe 01d Town a“ on he left balk.There an3 several nlain squares,with funnel‐ shaped Grajskitrg the hisbrical centre.The Ma Pohor」 e lies to the south‐ west.

bor

Maribor's enornlous post■ lodern bus station― a1980s urban`prestige proJect'if

there ever was one and now sornewhat decayed― is cast of Gragski trg on Mlinska

Trave:Agencies SIovenl江 unst(● 28990) hむ an ottce nextto the Od hotel at GraJSki trg 3aopen from 9 arnto 5 pm wcekdays and on Saturday lnorning tili noon. Its train station branch(1●

.211222),however,is open

every day"om 6 am til1 8.30 pm.Kompas (●

26751),on the east side of Maribor

ulica.The train s● tion is about 4(Ю m no“ h

Castic atTrg Svobode l,and Globtour(● 25 582)at the Siavija ho“ 1(entrance on Sodna

on Patizanskaces鯰 .Mriboralrpo■

ulica)keep he samc hours:8 am to5 pm on

(● 691 541)at Skoke,about 8km southtast of the

one of only three international oncs in the country,but there arc no schcd― uled nights.

weckdays and till noon on Saturday.

C)ld・ Ilown,is

information ■oudstOmoeThcMa

borTlounstlnfonnadon

Centre(MATIC;Glvani trg 13;● 211262; fax 25 271),one of the tw real tourist offices in SIovenia,doesn't offer rnuch in

the way ofinfonnation― it doesn't even post its hours(usually 9 anlto 6 pm weckdays, tili nOOn On Sattirday). It dOCS, hOWeVe■

publish a rnontllly calcndar of cvcnts ルあ rPガ ″″セツ 餞″gS助 ′ ι /均 ″パ″′ ″ル → (κο in Slovene and Cernlan only.

Monev A Banka has a branch a Glavnitrg 17 in the passageway connecting Gosposka ulica with VetrinJska ulica.Itis open fron1 8 alΥ ltill noon and 2 to 5 pm on weekdays and

to ll am on Stturday.lhere'san SKB Banka with a Cirrus■ inked ATM at Gosposka ulica 10 nextto thc Kvik sulЮ Πnaket.Tothe nght

of McDonald's on Graiski tg and down a

slnall passageway, the Enka cxchange counteris open froin 8 anllo 6 pin on week― days and till noon on Saturday.If you anivc in town withoutlocal culTency On a Sunday, g。

ゎ the s10venijamrist Once at thc tain

station.

Bookshop Mladinska Kttiga tt Gosposka ulica 28 sells“ gion」 and city lnaps and a

few guides in English. It also has thc l:50,000‐ scale map Pο ″ ο″ι iom GZS, which includes the Mal■ bor PohorJe.MK is open wcckdays from 9 am Ю 6 pm and on Saturday fron1 8 anl till noon.

Wa:king Tour Star a wdking tour of Manbor in Craiskl trg,the centre ofthe(Dld'コown and closed to traffic.In the inlddle ofthe square stands the

17th century St Fiorian Colurnn,dedicated to the patron of fire‐ fighting. Maribor Castie,a succcssOr tO thc Piramida fOrtress Ofmcdieva tiines,is On the n。 ■h_eastcomer at Gttska ulica 2.

Along with the exhibits of the Mar:bor

Regionai Museum(Pokrttinski MIuz可 Ma

bor),the 15● century castle contains a Festival Hall with a rcnlarkably dispropor‐

tionate celling painting,a baroque chapel

and ainagninccntrocOcOstalrcase nearthe The staircase,with its pink walls,stucco work and igures arrayed on the bannisters,

exit.・

is wo■ h a visit in itseif.

The muscunl's collection, one of the richestin Slovenia,is alTanged ontwo levcls. 〈 )n the grOundiOOrthere are aFChaC010giCal, ctllnographic and clothing exhibits with 19tll ccntury beehive I)anels painted with iBiblical

POst a comrnunications The inain post ofice ls near the train stat10n at Partizanska

cesta 54 and is open 24 hours a day seven days a weck.A more convenient branch is at

scenes from the Mislinia and Drava v」 levs. models of Staerska― style hayracks,Ku■ nt cos■ 1lnes andwax votivesfl℃

PtЧ

)■

ltheareaaround

,and heaps about the wine indus=y.

￨￨

ヽ 醸電り

圏 “

:::::￨::::￨:￨￨::i:::: 8 8ヽ R屁 85ヽ 888139尋 ,9

と口 ０コ ゝ〓２ ０２ＣＤ ”α さ０一 ■０ ２々 〓こに ＯＮ ｅ〓 Ｆ 一 ●§ ヨ ｆ ５ 塁 ∽ 〓

ａｏ‘望 ８ ●３ Ｙ ｏｃうｏ一 三 卜一 ■●２ ●●， ００こ“■９ＸＵ ， 聖 ５ “ｏコ Ｅ Ｒ‘ 〓 ●” む 焦ぁく 一 ●＞ロト● ﹄ ヨエｔｏ＞⊇∽ ０一 ＥＥョＯＯ ″ ａｔＯＬ ″り Ｎ一 ｏｏ■● ｏ●●●●Ｅく ０一 さ聖‘あ も ５ ﹄ ２０ ０ たこｏｏく ０＞●卜０“ＯＥＯＹ ０ Ｅ蒙ぁっ〓 “０一 ち００ お●Ｅ”〓 ト ８ ‘０ 颯３● ● ０●Ｅ∽ “ヽＣ●ＯＥ０〇 一 こに５ ０●Ｃ一 ＞一 ヽＯＣＯＤく 一 ０ン●一 ト ニ ８ ＞０∽“ ´ ● コ ∽ Ｅ■ 卜 ｏ

′

トビＲ︶ ０＞Ｅト く一 ﹄ｏおｏ一 ｏＯ 一ュ ≧ 一 ０ “一 の マＮ 〇０工 一 ●﹄ 一 ０ 一一 ンく卜０ ０卜 りｕＯくＪ●

とｏφ■ｏ００モ０ ゆ゛ 営Ｅコ ｏＯＣ ●０一 ， ｏεｏ＞ｏｖ 里 ｏ〓 ０ 一 卜くｕ Ｏ卜 ●ｕＯく“Ｌ

“Ｅ “Ｙ ，聖 聖 ｇ む一 ０ ●一 ， Ｃ四ョ●３ｏ〓 一

●ＥＯＮＮ一 ２ ０＞ ●● Ｌ一 ●● コ ｏＯＣ 啜と●匡 ヽ０

費︶ ●〓 ︸ 〓Ｏ τＯ● Ｃ一 “”エト０

=

∽ ↓＞ ﹂ ｍ コ の ス ＞

ｏお ■

￨

︼００■〓≧

Ft

bor 285

Ma Sttterska―

くＶ∽∝Ш﹁く卜０

286 StaJerska一

Manbor

I)on't inss the inannequins disPlaying what

hours are fron1 9 anl till noon and from 2 to

the well dressed Malibor woman worein the 19th century orMash」 Tito's dress uniform 鶴lconunanderofthe yЪ goslav anncd forccs.

7 pm.Thc entrancc fec is 400/300 SIr for

Upstairs you'1l pass through a loggia with

adults/children. Tlo the no

h― cast

is Pira¨

mida,where the titans of Marchburg once hcld sway.

Retum to the Old Town via Trubarieva

Gtek and Roman statuary and 14th century

Jewish gravestones.Fanher on there are rooms devoted Ю Ma bor's hisbry and its

ulica and Gledaliζ ka ulica, with the latter leading into S:ornも kov trg.The squape is

guildS ald CraftS(glaSSWae,WrOught iЮ

named after Anton Manin Slomgek(180062),mc Slovcnian bishop and pol cian who

n―

work,clockmaking),a complete 18th century phannacy and altlじ paintings and sculptures frolm■ he 15th to the 181l centu‐

was instminental in having the episcopate moved to Manbor andis now a candidate for

aking pride of place almong the sculptures are the exquisite statues by

cahedr」 just sOuth_west Of the:ight p‖

Joこ ef

a16th century lantern that oncc stood in tllc

rics.

′ I｀

Straub(1712-56)taken from the

santhood.That's hirn scated in front of the iar,

C;hurch of St Joscph in the south― westerll suburb of Studenci.・ Ihe works depicting the

church graveyard.

Angel of Grapes md Zacha

dates fronl the 13th century and shows el―

as are espe―

cidly ine. The regiond inuscuin is open Tuesday to Fnday fro■ 110″ un to 5 pm and on Saturday

and Sunday fronl 10 ain to 2 pm.The cntrance fec is 3(X)/100 Srr.

A few steps to the east is￢ rg Svobode. ThiS and the tWO lea″ SquareS tO the nOrth―

The Cathedrai of St John the Baptidt ements Of vinually cvery Tchitccturd sり le

from Romanesquc to modcrn(including inept 19ぬ ccntury atcmpts to`rc― Gothicisc' cenan bits).of special interest is the nan_ boyant(〕 othic presbytery and the chc)irs● 11ls with elieお showing scenes from the life of

the patron sant.The grand building a)ross

Malstov trg and Rakugcv trg― would be

thc Park tO thc wcst is thc university

unreinarkable except for the honeycomb of wine ce‖ ars below that cover an area of

is on the northenl side.

Library.'The Siovenian Nationa:Thel目

tre

Maribor's Fine Arts Ganery(U■ letnostna

20,000 sq rneties and can store 7 inilllon

a),thC mOStCOmplCte Ofthe mmy in

litres.11le cellars,dating fronlthc carly 19th

CalCr」

u℃ rnanaged by the Vinag wine century, そ

town,is south― west of SlomOkov trg at Strossmayer」 eva ulica 6.It is opcn frolm ′ uesday to Saturday frorn 10 am tili noon and fron1 4 to 8 pm.Sunday hours are from

export company at Trg Svobode 3 ald ac illed with old oakbな КIs,sに el trmentation

tanks and an``rchive'of vintage wine― all 誠 a constant 15° C.Thcrc's a sindi cenar

I｀

opcn to thc lpublic til1 7 prn,but if you're

10 am to l pm. If you walk across Korogka ccsta pぉ

serious about wine,ask lor atour at cception

market and thc dilapidatcd rcmains of the

212161).The wine shop hec has alarge selection of local vintages, including Mariborё an, Laも ki Rizling, Chardonnab

you'1lcome to the round Judgelment￢ owり r

(●

Tranliner and Gold Muscatel.Itis open from 7.30 arn to 7 prll weekdays and to 2 Plll On Saturday.

Maribor's iCity Park (Mestni Park), a

t the

Minorite monastery tO the water■ Ont, (Sodni St。 lp),the flrSt OffOur detnCe toWerS

still standing.This is thc start of Lent, Manbor's historical、 vaterfront area.

Afew steps along mc Pristan embankment at Vojぶ nヽ ka ulica 8is M bor's most cele‐ brated posscssion,a grapevine called lStara

lovely arboretuin with three little ponds, swans and a bandstand,also has a ratller sad Aquariu:m‐ ￢ errariuin(Akvarij_Terarij)

llrta that is still producing sornc 35 1itres of

with about40 smdltanks■ llcd

than four centurics ago. It is tcnded by a

with tropic」

rcd wine each year after being planted more

ish and reptiles.It's open on weckdaysfrOm

citv‐ appointed

8 arn to 7 pm.C)n Saturday and Sunday thc

Of thC」 mOSt blaCk ZamCtna Crnina(BlaCk

viticultunst and srnall bottles

｀そ ,lVet)are(liStributed tO ViSiting dignitarieS as`kcys'to Maribor Sorne people say it has a sou

sh tas鯰

yOu。 ∬ atthe sm■ Of me fOOpaぬ leading tO the bndge and the isiand. hc latcst an■ val is thc Fontana'Iicrnle 'I｀

.

Giavni trg,Manbor's market place in the Middle Ages,is north― cast of here.In the centre of the square is pcrhaPS the most extravagant plague pi:lar found amywhere

Manbor(● 223254),a huge spa complex

in central Europe.IE)esigned by Joこef Staub

solanum,itness centκ and massage.The

and erectcd in 1743,it includes the Virgin Mary surrounded by a half‐ dozen saints.At

Fontana complex is opcn year round froin 9

west of the centre at Koroこ ka cesta 172.It

has thermal poOls and whinp001s with a water temperature of 39°

to 44°

C,sauna,

anl to 9 pnl and entry is 18(X)SI「 for four

n hall,built in

hou鴫 2500 SIT for eight hours.Amuchless

1565 bv Venetian crafts■ len living in Stalerska.The Maribor Puprttt Thed"is

■ash bathing complcx is the Pristan pool cornplex(● 26740)on the riverwestofiLent

o at rヽ こ

(entmnce from Ob Bκ gu or Koroζ ka cesta

No 14 ofthe squarc isthc t(oM′

2 of the lovely arcaded courty.ard

behind called RotovSki trg.

Running north frorn(]lavni trg is (コ

iosposka ulica,once the residential`reaof

well‐ to‐ do

burghcrs and now a fashionable

ShODDing street fOr pedeStrianS..Ib the eaStiS

33).It has a pool,sauna,gyin and inassage.

The pool is open frorn 7 arn to 6 pin on weekdays and fro■ 1 8 arn to 7.30 pnl at the weekend.Thc sauna is opcn froin 8 ain to 8 pm iolnヽ 石 ednesday to Saturday.

The MariborFlying Centκ (奮 691506)江

21dovska uiica, the centre of the Jewish distnctin the Middle Ages.The 15th century synagogue at No 4 has been underrenova― 」On fOr SeVerd y9`rS nOW While the Squa℃

the airportin Skoke,about 8k■ l south― cast of me old Town,has several sightsceing nights

Jewish￢ ower(ZidOVSki StOlp)nearby iS

M′ ribor, PtuJ and Slovenska Bistrica for

now thc headquarters Of thc 10ca phOtO_

about I)M35 per person or I)M100 for a

graphers'club. Opposit tt Us可 arska ulica 10 is tte five― sided Water・ Tlo,vver(lViodni Stolp), a 16th century defencc towcrcontaining Slovenia's ｀ oldest vinoteka. Ylou can t楽,te up to 300

group of fivc.

difflerentslovenian wines here frOm・ ruesday to Saturday between 9 anl and 10 pnl.

available including one that takes in

Special Events Manbor hosts a lot of evcnts throughoutthe yea」 r,including

the lnternationa11・ Ilrade F'air

and Slovenian Choir Coimp■ ition in Ap

l,

thc Puppet Theatrc Festivalthroughout inost

ofthc summcr ald the annu」 ■leatκ Fcsti― val in thc sccond half of Octobcr But thc Activities A great deal of the outdoor acuvitics avall― able in the Malnbor area a“ )cented in the Maribor PohorJC・ See the followingた ound Maribor section for dctails. Manbor has scvcral outdoor swinll■ ing

biggest event on the city's calendar is the Lent Festival, a two― weck celebration of folklore,culture and imusic in late Juneメ early

pools, but the rnost pleasant oncs are on

11)rava and the lnternational Jazz iFesuval is

Maibor lsland(Manborsk1 0tok),a sald

held here at the samc urnc.(〕 rapcs arc har_ rta,thc vested in early(Dctober frorn Statra「 Γ `()ld Vine'in Lent.

bank at the end Of a dainΠ led_Off pOniOn Of

the Drava River called Maribor ]し ake (Maiborsko JeaЮ )about 4km west ofthe 01d Town.Swinl■ ung in the nveris」 lowed

July when stages are set up throughout the

01d Town.Among the most colourful cer‐ elmonics is the`baptism'of the rafts on thc

Piaces to Stay

fOr nude bahing.It's Open from June to Septmber only,■ om 9 am to 7 pm.Loc」

Camping TheJ′ οcamp site(● 621640), ``“ in Brestemica,about 6km west oftown on Ma bor Lake, is a pleasant enough place

bus Nb 15缶 om the tran stttion will drop

With a large amOunt Of SpaCe(■ Ve heCtareS)

here and a sunbathing a℃ a has been reserved

∽Ｈ＞﹂田コ∽バ＞

もtaJerska一 Maribor 287

くＹＯ〓Шつく卜∽

288も tttcrska一 Manbor for thc 1501 people the organizers say they

′ can accornrnodate. rhe canlp site is Opcn fromMarchto Octobe■ Localbus No 15■ 111

of the(Drel hotel.It is open wcekdays only from 9 am to 2 pm.There'saル 「cDο ″α″'む 江 Grttski trg l.

Forpiza,headお r ttdjustorPristan at

drop you off outside reception.

Pr:vde Rooms The MATIC and Slovenija‐

I:)ravska ulica 8:look for the sign with the three rats!Vierdiis open from 10 am to inid―

tunst can organise private rooms for about

night dttly.Neaby a Vojaさ

E)M20.

″ca serves sinlple evapё iё Balkan grllls like pleskavica and ё for between 500 and 700 SIr and is open and facing the lDlrava,」

;niも

kova ulica 4

Rク

i

Hostel The D′ たぶ たノDο ″ 26J“ ″′ メ(● 511 80())at iZeleznikova ullca 12 on the inght

bank of the Drava in the south‐ eastern suburb of Pob“ 4C aCCeptS traVeners in July and August.From the tran station take bus No 3(which may have a Hostelling lnじ ma‐ tiond symb。 1。 n thc front of it)and gct or a the cemetery stop.The pnce is 18(Ю SIr

daily from 8 arn to ll pnl.

a reStaurant The Othei"ViSe eXpenSiVe R′ ら ヴ 誠 the SIttija hotel has good set lunches

(inCluding SOrne Vegetarian OneS)fOr bctwcen 70()and 100()Srr.11le uprnarket οκ,a`WintcrGTden'“ stau― “ of nlable,halging vines and rant with lots

ZJ“ sた Jヽ ケ′ Zα

an atrium,is around the corner from the(Drel

per person.

hotel at(〕 osposka ulica 30.It's open daily,

Hote:s Maribor's three big hotels cater alnlost exclusively to business travellers

cxcept sunday,from ll anlto ll pl口 n. A great place for a inealifyou wantto get

froln Austria and Gcrnlany and charge

out ofthc city but don't feel like travelling is

accordingly;for cheaper hotcl acconunoda― tion you'1l have to head for the hills of the

`Prjish Zκponds above(City Park at the three

MariborPohor]o(seeAroundMaribor)ortry the new 75-bed Gα ′ πJ″ο″′7レ bο r(● 104 224;fax 104 225)at UIca Hcroja ZidanSka 18 in Studenci to the south‐west across the I:)rava. Singles′ 6300′ 9800 SI「

doubles with shower arc

.

Gο∫ ″酪

力R」 ♭″」 ″力(● 211371)near

RibniSka ulica 3.Oddlル their speci」 ities are CheeSe ζ tnlklji(dumplingS)and game diSheS

―not ish.The restaurantis open daly from 10 am■ o10 plm. ′

Iヽ vo lovely caf6s in Maribor arc thc Cr″ ∫滋 κα″ αin the CaStle at Trg SVO‐

Thc most central of thc thrce city hotels, the rathcr gloomy 231‐ bcd O″ ′(● 26171; fax 28 497)at Craiski trg 3a,cha・ ges from

“ bode 2(open Monday to Saturday from 8 am t010 pm)and the C′ り′α ユακαツク″ ″α nCXt to the SIovenian National ・rheatre on

9500 SITう or a single wi■ showerand bleak‐

MikloSiё eva ulica(open weckdays ion1 8 ani to 2 ain,on Saturday frorn 10 anlto 2 prn and 7 prn to 2 anl,and on Sunday from 7 pin to 2 am).The Cle」 daliSka Kava・ na a■ racs a

fast and 13,000 SIT for a double. The 170-bed S′ αックα B′ s′ Иセsセ

(●

227560;

fax 222 857),a modern 10‐“ sto“ y block ghe■ a 3,has singles for 90(X)to ll,500 SIT and

f¨ing a busy sttetat Ulica Ⅵta K

doubles for 12,000 to 14,500 SI・r. The Pj″ α ″′ ′lα (●

J′

gay crowd. ′ here's a′ ｀ 4odnikov trg. し

rた ′

I｀

"α

` selling produce at

25971:fax 25 984).duc east at

UlicaHerojaSiandra 10,is a bmler164-bed tounst hoteltanied up with a bit Of paint and rnarble.Singles with shower and breakf`壼 ,t sta■ iat 10,000 SIT,doubles at 17,000 SI■

P:aces to Eat

jο α he S′ ο ッι″:α ″′ Viα ′ ″ J 71カ ι α′

`(Slovensko “ Nttodno GledaliRe;SNG)in Maribor has one ofthel)estreputatiOns in thc cOuntry and its productions,including iFlα sr dil℃ cted by

・ ornaを I)andur, havc rcceived “ critical acclam throughout Europe.The citプ s ballet I｀

()ne of the cheapest places in Maribo,r is the O′・ J′ c self‐ selvice

Entertainlmlent 'I｀

restaurant on Volklne]ev

plchod,the naTow pa,sage on the south side

he 224 421 or● 221206),on

and opera companies alsO pcrfOrnl here.'I｀ ticket officc(1●

...‐

■￨■・‐ ‐‐ ― ・￨￨■ ‐

‐. ・ ■‐￨￨_‐ ‐―・

釘Ⅳ E臥 LON

STⅣ E FALLON t:￨:￨￨:￨￨￨￨￨￨￨￨lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll!￨ll:l:!::￨::1'i::r

STEVE FALЮ N

A

B

C

D

A: Looking across Savinia Riverto

Cele CaStie,StalerSh B: Wayside shrine,Lo9ar Via‖ ey,

Staierska

C:Ⅵ ′ ooden suspension bridge,

Upper SaVinia Va‖ ey,StalerSka [):oycling in the Logar V'a‖

Staleska

ey,

輻︸ 一一一 一一 一 一一 卜  一 ¨ 一¨ 一一 翫一 一 一 一 一 一

V▼

TOMO UESENIじ NIK

RENATA PICEJ

A C

B D

STEVE FALLON

A: Wine ce‖ ar,Trg Svobode,

C: Church ofthe Ascension,designed

iViaribor,KoroSka B: Drying corn vvith a religious therTle,Koroも ka

D:13th century church in Spodnla Muta,KoЮ もka

by J。 2e Pleё nik,BOgOlina,Prekrnurle

thethCatre'S nOrth Side at Slovenska ulica 27,

iS Open Weckdays iom 10 am to 7 pm(to 5 Pln on Monday),t01 pm on Saturday and

AЮ und Manbor 289

(thК e),MttSperk(two),:MIoravske

Toplice

(two),Nova Gorica(tw。 ),Novo Mesto (One), Orin02(SiX), POdё etrtek(three), PostoJna(five), RogaSka Slatina(five),

tWOhOurS beforc the perfornlance.Maribor's jら ο SeCOnd farnous thcatrc is the lイ ″ rP“ pp`r r力 (Lutkovno Gledaliこ ёc Miaribor) `ar″ (● 26748),with productiOns year round,at

Zagreb in Croatia and there's a daily bus to

RatovSki trg 2.

Grazin Austriaat 7.30 am.Fivebuses aweck

lα

(E〕

oncerts arc held in scveral 10catiOns,

SlovenJ Gradcc(sevcn)and Velcqc(thrcc). vo buses a day gO tO VaraZdin and 1｀ ゃ

leave for F｀ rankfurt and three for Stuttgaln in

inCluding the castle's IFcstival Hall and the

Gernlany.:ForI“entiin Hungary thcrc's a bus

cathedral.Ask the tourist Office fora list,'「 he

at8 am on′ rhursday and Saturday and One

Cル みSaた力″ο meets in the Fine Ans Canery bu‖ ding at StrOSsmayeleva ulica 6,

for Budapest at 20 minutes afterrnidnight on VViednesday,F.riday and Saturday.

Jα zz

nightly■

om 9to lam.

ThC pubS and reStaurants along thc D)rava inLcntare p,ctty lively On suminercvcnings. The bcerin thcsc pansis Garnbnnus,brcヽ wed

in Manbor for n10re than two centuries.If you're looking to bOP,you can try A″ 2`2′ s, a disco down a little alleyway at SIOvenska“ ulica 20(open l｀ uesday tO Sunday frOm 7 pin to 4 am)Or Pα ″グjsο ■Cura」 eva cesta 21 on llc other side of thc I:)rava nc)tf:】 r from '′

the hostel(open Monday to Saturday from 9 pin to 4 aln).OneOfthehottestpla9esintOwn is Ma″ j″ κ4'α ″at Ulica Hero」 a Saranoviё a 27 iniMelje,eぉ t ofthe tr n statiOn,a dist ct

not unHke the Medikova squatin ttub」 ala. Martin KTan rttes on Fridり 帥d Saturday

1lrainl Maribor is on thc train linc linking

Zidani MOst and Celje with the Aus“ ian cities of Gr2 and Vlenna.FЮ m町 ubljana

(156km;2%hours),you can reach Malbor on any of 20 trains a day.About a half―

trains a day,onginating in Maribo■

dozen go east

from Pragerskoto Ormoこ (59km;11″ hou、 ), 缶om where yOu can make your way intO :rOatia. Conncctions can bc nlade at 〈 二 Pragelsko for trains to Murska Sobota and

Hungary. About four trains head west each day for

Dravograd(64km;lL4 hours)and other stops in KoroSka.■ ヽ vo of those trains cross the Austnan bordcr atIIolmec and cany On to Klagenirt(Cclovec).

lα ribο 'oin pin to 4 ain. 1イ 9 r CIasι ″ο,at Glavni trg l,is Open

daily from 6 prn to 2 prn and Offcrs slot

machines,Amencan and Fκ nch roulctt and bl¨ 町aCk・

Getting There&Away Bus Ylou can reach virtuaHy any large ccntte

in S10Venia (and destinations in Austria,

Hungaty,Crottia and even Gennany)f,Om

Maribo■ ・rhe bus station is huge,with s。 11le 30 stands, shops, bars, caf6s and a large left‐

Car&Motorblke Kompas Hc■ z(● 225 252)has m o価 ce at thc Siavija hotcl open fron1 7 am to 7 pnl on wcekdays and to l prn on Saturday. Getting Around Bus Maribor and its surrOunds arc well served by local buses.´

I｀

hey depart frOrn the

stands about200m no■ h ofthe ttain station's main entrancc.

luggage office open from 7 arn to 9 pnl.

BuS SerViCe iS frequent to Celje,Dmvo―

grad, GornJa Radgona,Lenart,Lendava, LJubljana,均 utOmer,Lovrenc,Murska Sobota,Ptuj,Radenci,Seinica and Slo‐ venska Bistnca. ()therdestinatiOns andtheirdaily frequen― Cies include the A● Ch hotel in the Maribor

Poho」 c(two),GornJi

Grad(one),Koper

Taxi FOr a local taxl,nng●

27755.

AROuND MAR:BOR Maribor Pohorie

oα ´ ●662・ ′ο α s“ ο グι22θ 8 “ `ο `J′green lung and its central play― Manbor's

ground, the eastern edge of the PohOrJe Massif(Manborsko POhOrJe in Slovene)can

いＨが﹂猥コ∽ス＞

Sttterska―

290 StaJerska― Around Ma

bor

be casily reached by car, bus or cablc car

are cOntcnttOsitin the paddock.Itcosts 1500

from town.Theな ca has any number of

SIT per hour to take them outside.Both the Areh and thc lBIellevuc hotcls alsc havc

仕om skiing and hiking to horse nding and mountaln biking― and is a Welcome κspite from the ciり ,cspecially activities on offer―

inountain bikcs,an idcal way to explorc thc back rOads and tralls ofthe Maribor PohorJe.

・ hc rental charge is 400 SI■ ｀ perhour or2(X〕 0 I｀

SIT for the day.11lc IPoStarski I)orn nloun―

′

skiing rhe ski grOunds of the Maribor

tain lodge has tennis couits.

POhOle SLetCh frOm thC Habakykhotei near thc lowcr cablc― c`r station to Ziga■

ov Vrh

(1347m)west of● e Arch hotel.Wim some

P:aces to Stay&Eat There arc plenty of placestO stay in the MariborPohorJe,includ―

60knl of slopes, 25knl of cross― country

0′gι ∫ald ing moc than a dozen″ 0′ ″″れ ′

runs and 1 6 skilifts,tllis is SIovenia's iargest

ski area and iong waits for tows,Which

ο′ ″ιs, rnany of thern run by the みο′ J′ ツ カ Branik Ski Club(● 221 810 or● 222152).

can be a problenl in SIovenia,arc viltually nonexistent here.

Its rnaln office in Maribor at Mladinska ulica

Thc scasOn generdly lasts fromiDecember to March,but therc′ rc Snow cannons along thc 870m run whe“ 山cWomen'sWorldCup

Slalom and Giant SIalom Competition (Golden Fox trophy)take place in Januay. Ski equipment can be rented atthe Belle―

vuc hotel(1050m)or from the small cabin betwecn the Areh hotel and the pretty little 17th ccntury pilg mage church nca・ by.A

daily ski pass cOsts around 3100 SIT(2200 slr 10r children)and a weckly oneis 14,500 SIT(10,200 SIT).'There's also a ski school.

Hiking Therc arc heaps of easy walks in

￨′

29 will providc you with alist and basic map. ユ Places close to lnain roads includc Rン ・

`

αぉだ κοdα ′万 A″ 力 (● 603264)and Pο ぶ′ “ havc cooking facil― Dο (● 222152).Most “ and are open all year. itics ■lc 84-bedA″ 力hotl(雷 ω 32ω ;fax 226 866)is a vcry pleasant skllodge with rustic, wood― panelled roorns,a pleasant restaurant and helpful staff.Singlcs with sho、 vcr and

breakfast cost 2900 SIT,doubles 540()SIn Thc hotel has cupboards with locks in thc basennent for storing skis and bicycles.

The 75-bed B`′ ルッ “`(1'603215;fax car station,is 603 not 210),nearthe uppcr cable― as nice asthe Areh butit has pleasant outside

cvery direction frorn the Arch hotel,but fol―

terraces for eating and dnnking in wann

lowing a stretch of the rnarked Slovenian Alpinc Trail(which originates in Mariboつ

wcathen lts rates arc aboutthe sainc as those atthe Areh.

west and then sOuth― west for 5km will take

yOu tO the two Su:mik waterfalis and Prag02d― One Of the feW Virgin fOreStS ieft in Europe.Anoher 6km Ю the south― west is BIack Lake(Crno Jezero),the source ofthe swi彙 ― running Lobnica Rivet and(Э san‐ karica, where thc Pohor」 e battalion of Pa sans was wiped out by the Cerinans in January 1943.This is a remarkably bcautiful hike and thc joy of it is that with all the strearns around you don't have to cariう ′as

much watcr as you norinally would while hiking in suinmcr

Getting・ There&Away You can drive ot if

ambitiOus,cycle the 20km iom me 01d Town in Mariborsouth pastthe Renaissance‐ style BetnavaCastle,turning westat Spodtte Hoё e before rcaching a fork in the road at a sm」 I waterall.Go lcft and you'1l reach the

Areh hotel aftcr about 5km.Arightturn and iess than 4km bnngs you to the lBellevuc hotel.

Al■ uch easier― and more exhilarating― way tO gettO the Bcllevuc and the hcanl of thc Malnbor Pohor」 e is to take the cable car

〃αdα ;● 631850お rinfonn■ ion)from the station on IPohorska ulica in ZgOrnJC RadvanJc 6km south― west ofthc 01d Town. (ッ 4,ι

Other Activities You can rcnt horses iom thc lBellevuc hOte1 lor about 500 SIT if you

・ hc ridc above the chestnut trccs iasts only I｀

15 nunutes but offers exccllcnt views ofthe city and surrounding countryside.「 11lere are cvcn clanlps on the outside ofeach can■

agc for

u・ buses inake the nln betw∝ n he BeⅡ evuc ald Aκh hods.

nlore,hiking and trckking in thc wintcr hcre is as good as itis in the sunllner′ I｀ hough the Pohor」 e was once covered in forests,lulTlber―

jacks and chTcoal makers exploitcd the oods for thc sawnlills. forges and glass―

skis and inountaln bikes.:Regulそ

l″

FrOnl the train station in Maribor take local bus No 6,which leaves about every 20

ka in the 19th works of Stajcrska and KoЮ こ ccntury. Many of the hillsides havc bccn clearcd and are now given over to brush,

minutes,and gct off tt he tenninus.Thc

pasturc and ineadows.C)thers were replanted

cable car runs every halihour fron1 7 am■

o

7 pm with onclasttnp agan at 10 Pin.

with oak trees. Zreё c(pop

3575),about 40km south― west

ofManbor,is the springboard for the central

´

PohorJe region. 「 hough ccrtainly not

CENTRAL POHORJE REG:ON a ε οd′ ・ a´′ 1｀

●θ63・ ′ο ∫ rcO′ ´32′

` ravellers can casily sanlple lPohor」

e's rec―

SIOVenia'S mOSt attraCtiVC tOWn(the UniOr tool― rnanufactunng company doininates the

reational offcrings along its eastern and

plaCC),ithaSthe mOdeSt Terme Zreё

wcstcm iingcs from Maribor ald SIovcnJ Gradec in Iく oroSka. 13ut the pear― shaped

is within easy striking distance ofthc ski and

massif's■ lost beautiful and highest arca is in

to the north.The central Pohor]C rcgion is

the centre.

also very well developed for rural tounsm, with dozcns of local fal■ nhouses offering acconllnodation.

While it'struc thatthe Pohor」

e peaks can't

hold a candlc to those of thc Julian and thc

e Spa and

spo■ centre around Rogla(1517m),1 6klm

Kamnik― SavinJa Alps― most here ba℃ ly clea・

the 1500in inark― this is the only part

Ofthe cOuntry where yOu can apprcciate the sheer vastness of the rnountains without feeling henll■ ed in or vertiginous. What's

information Staff at thc I:)obrava hotcl,(3esta na lRoglo 15,at Tlerinc Zreё

c,which is owned by the

Unior Turizem travel group(●

7681117;fax

∽ ↓＞ ﹂観 コ ∽ バ ＞

もtaJcrska― Ccntral PohorJc Rcgion 291

くＹＯ〓Шっくトロ

292ぶ taJerska― Central

Pohor〕 e Region

Lovrenc Lakes(Lovrenska Jezera),a tur

762446),can help with information.■ llerc's a Banka Celle branCh neXttO Zに ёC'S Small

swamp with 19 1akes that are cOnsidered a

bus station in thc shopping ccntlで , to thc nonh― east,about 150m from the spa's inain

lor its unique vegetation.

natural phenornenon.1llis areais alsoknown

entrance.Itis open from 8 anlto l pnl and l.30 to 5 prn weekdays and on Saturday to

Skiing Rogla's15knl of slopcs and 30krn of

ll.3()arn. The bus station also has an

cross― countl)′ tralls arc scrved by two chair

exchange ofnce. 11le post office, 。piposite

lifts and ll tows.11le season is a relatively long one― from laに November till Apnl―

the bank to the west,is open weekdays from 8 ani to 6 prn and tili noo■ on Saturday.

and there are cannons for anincial snow.A daily ski pass in full scason cos寝 ,310C)/22()0

￢erme Zreё e

SIT for adults/childrcn and a sevcn― day one

The thermal spa at Zreё e is a senous treat― ment centre for post‐ operative therapy and

loCOn10tOr diSOrderS(eSpeCially thOSe inV01Ving SPOns inJuncs), but it iS alSO a placc whcre you can have fun.Along with an indOOr thCnnal p001(Water temperature iS 32°

C)andacoupleofj¨

uzzis,there's a large

is 14,500′ 10,200 SI・ . ・rhere's also a ski 「

school(● 14204468;30(X)SI「 for one― hour indiVidual leSSOnS),and yOu Can rent equip― !Tlent at the PlanJa hotel. In recent years Rogla has becorne the centre in SIovenia for snow― boarding;lcssons for individuals cost 3000S11｀ per houn

covered recreational pool and t、 vo outdoor

ones.A fee of 120()SIT gets you use ofthe pool,saunas and stcanl roorn;it's900 SIT lor the pool alone.1lhe spa cornplex also has a

Horse RIding.The lRogla Equine Centre ●:754 322)is about 3krn '775 210 or north― east of Rogla at 】 くoё a na Pesku, a (●

very well equipped gym(7α )SIT entry).

nlountain hut with a sma11 1℃ staurant, and

Ylou won't soon forget a lnassage withそ

opens daily from 10 arn to 5 prn.An hour's

u・o―

matic oils or the rnedicinal rnud treatrncnt.

ridc in thc hills costs 150()SI・ SI′

Rogia Rogla is a true sports centre and inany tearns

―including Siovenian and Croatian(Dlynlpic teams― comc here to tmin.lⅣ ith all those

spruce trees producing so rnuch oxygen theA)'s enough to go around foreveryonc.1ヽ Io ma■ er where you look it seenls that sornconc is bouncing, lifting or pushing sornething, and the hiking and skiing arc cxccllent.

Hiking The Rο g″ Fο οrみ′α″s hiking map

prOduced by uniOr・ rurizern and available everywhere in Zreё e and Rogla outlines

「 ,alesson 2(XX) r.A45‐ minute horsc‐ drawn sleigh l■ de in

winteris 2000 to 4000 S111,depcnding on the destination,and they also have sleighs pulled by huskies. 0)ther Activities The spo■ s centre at】 Rogla has an indoor pool opcn froin 9 anito 8 plll, acovered stadiulm forall kinds ofteam sports (inCluding baSketball and V011eyball),jOg‐

ging tracks, lawn bowis, squash and bad‐ rninton couits and indoor and outdoortennis courts.The tennis couns cost l(XЮ to 2600 SI′ I｀

an hour to rent,depending on thc type

SeVen trailS(mOSt Ofthem Open tO mOuntain

and the ti:ne of day.A racquet is 150 SI・ r. Mountain bikcs can l)e rented for 50()S11'an

bikes)from Rogla.lhey all follow well

hour or 150()S11｀

for four hours.

mttked ciКulttpaぬ s and are asshortas 2km

(30 minutcs)and as long as 32km(cight hours).Thc l江 にr is hike No 5 and covers rnuch of the hike dcscnbcd in the earlicr

Places to Stay&Eat

・I'he cheapest place to stay at the Rogla holiday centre(●

'42040;fax 766 010)is the

Around Maibor section― もumik wacrfans,

J′ ′ たαhostel,open

Black Lake,Osankarica―

and Decemberto March.For I)M21,you get

but from the Other sidc.Another good onc is the 12k■ lhikc No 3(thrcc hours)that leads no■ h― west to thc

from June to nlid―

(Dctober

a bed in one of four dOnnitOry rooms and breakfast.

ThC B′ り′ 1ル ,a pOky anneXe Of the PlanJa hotcl, charges 16400 SI・ r for a double in surnrner and 78010)SIT through nlost of the

with lightr fare next door■ No 4c.Both ae open ddly o.10 or ll pin.There'sabig E″ ο′ ″

wintt While

「 ル

e hoti b“″gα ′ ο″s for two

F"ooPlc arc 6700 to 8800 SIT. The most expensivc accommod■ ion■ Rogla is a thc P′ α ′ ヴαhOに 1,WhiCh haS a thκ e‐ Star Wing with 176 beds and a fou卜 star one with 75 beds.F'rankly,thc cheaper wing's roollls are bnghter and nlore attr:x,tive but even they

at(:lesta na ltoglo 4b or thc」

Klα

ッ α″α物

r supermarket in the shopping

cα ′ ο `“

cenre at Cesta na Roglo ll.

The pizza and pasta dishes at the α,cn routc to Rogla from Zrcё c at `α “ `″ Bohanna cesta 2,can be:℃ conllnended.111 “ Iα

Rogia the“ 's a cheap“ ′膨″j“ ″srα ″れ′ in me Planga hOtel and a′ :″ αjust “ nOrth

aren't a bargain:expcctto pay a nunimum of

`″ ofthe hotei nea・ the ski lift.The S′

4800S11｀ for one and 7200 SITfor hvo in the

is a rustic littie bistro in onc of lRogia's

very low season,with pnces shooting up to

onginal woodcn bulldings.

8200 SIT and 14,000 SIT in the high season. Arnuch be■ erdealis available atthe rnany b,7″ み 0“ 諮 in theコegiOn,partiCularly a10ng ノ (:lesta Kmeё nega near Resnik, about 7kin

Getting The眸

α″ αKlο da

&Away

There are regular connections from iZ“ ё e to

Ce」 e, Planina, SIovenske KonJice and buscs a day from Celje and at

west of Rogla.The Pad″ jた farmhouse (● 762202),for exal■ Ple,at No 21 is open in suinmer and in winter and hそ 、■ve roolns while κοd″ ′ 々― κονル (● 7ω 728)江 No 33

Vし le]e.Two

has lourrooms and is open all year.Thcre are mol℃ famhouses with accommodadon in

Ю Rogla and Ю Resnik.In wincr therc arc

south‐

た

least three frorn Slovenske I〈 【 onJice stop at ZreCc and thcn ca■ /on to Rogla.Loc」

buses make thc l■lns fronl Zrelё e bus station

closer to Zrete,Stranice and Kr2evec.The

SpeCid Ski buSeS frOm bOth Zreё e(eg iVe up and ive dOwn per day)as wen as celje ald Slovenske Ko可 ice.Terme Zreё e mns bur

usual fannhouse pnces apply: from about

moming buses up to Rogla forits guests,with

E)1430 per person in a 2nd category room

the same numberretunling in dle aftemoon.

nearby SkOma」 C and PadeSki Vrh and,

witt shaed bam ald bieakfast in the 10w season to I)ヽ 145 perperson for a lstcategory room wiぬ p vate bath and mealsin the high

season.

・I'he,c's no particular reason for staying at

Tenne Zreё c('76820;fax 762 446);」

l the

fun is up in Rogla anyway.Butif you're a scrious disciple of things thcrmal,thc spa's

54-room Dο b″ hotel, an unexcepdonal

block near the entrance, has singles with showerand bcakぬ stfor70(Ю to 10,700SIT, dcpending on thc scason, and doubles for ll,200 to 17,600 SI・「 。 Makc surc you get one ofthe rooms will a balconヌ though.IMIore pleasant a・ e the 10ッ ″″s with four apart‐

mcnts cach in a smdl woodcd arca bchind the main spa building.Each apaltment ha,a kitchen,cating area,situng rO。 :Tl and one or

two bcdrooms.Pnccsaure 9400 to 16,800 SIr for an apa‖ :rnent for two. If you get tired of the restaurant at■ lerine Zreё e an`l its iZ′ た ακ′ ι′wine cellar,try the

Cο s′ J′′ ,α

`ま

Jα ″ ご′ びopposite

theshoppingcent・ e

CELJE

a“ ′ αι οd′ ●θ63・ ′ο S′ ε ο ピ′ θθ `θ Celje(Cilli in German)is notthe lagest city in Stalerska一 Manbo■ 60km Ю the north‐

)。 ,`χ χ ・ ′ο ρイノ

cast,has nlore than three tiines as many people― nor is it the province's most tttmc‐ tive centre.Butit has played a pivotd role in Slovenian history on atleasttwo occasions.

History

celje wぉ setled by the nly ans and thc Cleltic tribes who were subducd by the Romansin about 15 BC.As Celeia,it was the adminis廿 江ive cent“ ofthe Roman prov‐

ince of No cum between lle lst and 5th centuries, and roads linked it with other

Roman settlements at Virunum(near Ю agenfu■ in Austtia),Poetovio(P呵 )帥 d

Emona(巧 ubljana).Celeia was m amuent

town as is evident frorn thc large baths, ■losalcs and tenlples unear」 led in the area. In fact,it iourished to such a degree that it

∽ ↓＞ ﹂田 ” ∽ ス ＞

StaJerska― Celjc 293

I

294も ta」 erska― Celje gained the nicknamc 7)0」 αs`c“ ″′α, the `second'rrOy'.cclcia's g10ry days carnc to

an end when it was sacked by thc IIuns in 452 and overrun by subsequcnttribes during he C“ 江 Migrttions. Celje'S SeCOnd CalnC10t Came in tht n■ d

14th century When nlembers of thc Zonek

building as the Muscunl of Rcccnt IIistory. It has a lot of brochures and will sell you a

map md● e

〃′(13∞ SIr) useful C″ ・`G“ published by IIPSI. 「 hc office is open Tuesdayto Fnday from 10 anto 6 pm(5pm in Winter)and On S■ urday frOin 9 ain till noon.

family took control ofthe a・ ea.The Counts ―laterthe Dukes― ofCelie,one ofthe richest

and inost powerful feudal dynastics in central Europe,were thc last on Slovenian

soll to challenge absolute rule by the

Habsburgs, and they united inuch of

Money Banka Celjc has a branch oface at ヽ 40dnikova ulica 2 open froin 8.3()ain to l り pm and l.30to 5 pm weckdays,to ll.30 arn on Saturday.ABanka,at iK.“ ,kov trg 7 oppo―

SIovenia for a tirne.Under thcir rule,which

site the train statiOn,is Open froin 8 arn till

lastcd brjust a centu,,Celje acquired the

noon and 2 to 5 prn weekdays and to l1 2un

status of a town,and they built the castles, town fortincations ttld most Of the churches

On Saturday The SKB Banka bmmch in the Blagovna HiSa at Gubё eva ulica l has a

still standing today.ThecountsleftCcucmd

Cirnls‐ linked AT

the nation an invaluable legacy and a part of their enlblenl― threc gold stars forrning an inverted tl・ langle ― has becn incorporatcd into the sIovcnian state nag and seal. Celje wぉ never able O repeatthose glory

Office is at lcrekov trg 9 and is open from 7

l.

Post&Communications The inain post anlto 8 prn MOnday to Saturday and from 8 to ll aln on Sunday.

days and plagucs, 1loods, invasions and n3volts struck the town oVer the ensuing

centunes.cclc was in fact moに

German

Trave:Agencies Kompas(● 4433(Ю ),in lovely Rcnaissancc housc at(￨〕

a

lavnitrg l,can

than Slovene untilthc end ofVVヽ VI whcn tllc tOwn gOvenlinent passed into local hands for

Open weekdays flon1 8 am to 5 pm and till

arrangc accorninodalon and rents cars.It is

thc irst tiine.

n00n On Saturday. Slovenlatunst(1● 484 笑)2),atthe Lttn smdon in K“ kov trg,is open

Orientation Cclje's compact Old Town―

weekdays frorn 9 anl to 4 prn and till noon

cncompassing

justめ out everything ofintecstto travelles ― is bordered by 】 Levstikova ulica and

on Saturday.Globtour(●

442511)has`m

ofFicc at Razlagovaulica l nextto theEvropa hotcl.It kceps the sarnc hours as Konlpas.

Gregorё iё eva ulica to the no■ h and north―

west,the area aound the Lower Castictothe west,the taln tracks to the cast and the Savitta River Ю the south.

The town has two man squares:Glavni

Bookshop Mladinska Knjiga at Stanetova ulica 3 sells regional nlaps and guides includingぬ eC`ク ι G“ ″ι.Another good plκ cお r maps is Nぶ a Knjiga κЮss the

trg atthe end OfStanetOVauliCa(apedeStrian Stκ et Where mOSt Ofぬ C aCtiOn iS)and【 CkOV

sanle street at No 10.Both are open weck―

trg opposit the tran station.Thc main bus

frorn 8 anl till noon.

station is 400rn no

days缶 ol■ 7.30 am to 7 pln and on Saturday

h of the train station

opposite mc Church of St Maximilian on

Walking Tour

ASkё evaulica lズκ」 and suburb`m busessЮ p souふ ofthet・am s餞」ononUlicaXIVDivizije.

You can begin an easy w滅 轟ng tourofCelje,

which takes in virtually everything of impo■ ance and interestin the town,froin the

Information

nlain bus station.

TOurist Office The tOunst Officc(奮 /fax 481

(:)pposite,on the westeni side ofノ ヽ もkiё eva ulicL isthe Church of St Maxinniman,na:ned

062)is at P“ こ cmova ulica 17 inぬ e samc

嬌 ∝ 崚Ю b:血 op w“ wsbぬ ddin Celjc in“ 3● ∝血 ワ Iヽ ぬ眠 h “ ws bu■ in α nL,Lm“ 1鋤 ∝血 ,ぃ w毬 饉 師 』 輌呵 W“1)buthお unde嘔 。‐ mmy "!Othe chan幹SOuth‐ 3 mdeddl● oi s since then.

Conunuc southwa:d along Stan“ 。va uliCa, ,3St the Banka Celle building 1,y:oあ

壷 Ⅲ

H∝ k血 192,鐘 d me

spOt ,w・ here

the tOwa gates st()。 d in ule Middle Ages‐ に出oP。 1●c∞n腐 ず 」le 蜜,xt int応∝●on with PE“ mova BHca w盤 OnCe■ lC i10"に :rC●::11)hOu3● ,the nl(,St im"に鈍 t8価 ng 8"l fOr cel,CituL_ Шds in the 19th∝ ntu,Pc“ mova ulica “ “

lead8 o田 ●■d o Ktkov tig,whec yoll.11

価 d“ Hou Ew"8,01je'801崚 t and le n!￨(ol,蒟

for the cl,｀ C● ■ mn

“ よ

o cen● 暉

0.Ⅲ 80c

m cel“

“cittaB m the■ m of

.

Souul」 ong Ra」 ag(wauica you'■ pssa m“tVal ddO■ Ce t。 ‖躍。 n● e tht m` out 15(h faither on,the W“ ￢o‖■. me a"wm md.mpaぉ 錮d buit “ 『 Ltw∝ "“ “ n1451 and 1473.MШ yof● c blocL Ш 田℃dRomm∝ un.

FЮm t“ Savh,a cmbalbEn● the “ pol■ whet t“ old Capuchn Bddge “ onoe StOOd,● e●・3

0田 ∞●■ ●st D “ "Ⅲ

m eXCCIIem V10両 C810

On m…

p呻 tO雌

uy oP"Sit is Cl句 ′Park “

“ cap熙 n chur輌 。19 oLtt Pa“ ),me ●Юl:lain Btg m●

Churdh d a NIo日

“up On a ml,lL

=E.

Awalkup to● ec田 」e,Sloven賜 “ '81ag彗ヽ ■3 a f001,ath nr)mC“ 口 霞 Ga tabS about hnlFanltouriomhet.111● casu● 1″ as on31■ ally bu■ in ttc cuy 13●

wmt iough“ va」 tiai

oenm,and

sbml面 on、 もpe‐ omy unOr the Coum of Celje n the 14th

Savinja Rivc■ Or you cm exploc thc Breg

ca.Astairway wi山 90 stpsttBEg 21eads

a」

to the Church of St Cecilia.The Gennans uSedthe neTby mOnaStery(nOW aparmen徳 ) as a prison during ヽVヽVII. IBetween the church and the City Park offMalstova ulica

is the reconstructcd Roman￢e:nple of Hercuies dtting from the 2nd century.A birch■ inedparkalongthcsttinja'snOnhem einbankinent has a lapldary of Roman

remansunearthedin mece」 e area.JuJ“hind it,at Muzejstt trg l,is the 16th century O:d

County Palace, a lRenaissance building with a two― level arcadc around a courtyard.

11lcpdacenowcontainstheCeileRegionai Mu“ um(PohⅢ nsh Muza Ce」 c). Nccdless to say,the rnuseuin puts■ luch

emphぉ is onCeleiaandthe Counts ofCelje, nght down to exhibiting 18 of the nobles' SkullS in glaSS CaSeS.(They Were taken iOm tllc Minonte church in 1956;the one belong‐ ing tO UlriC iS partiCularly gnieSOme.)The museurn has 13 roorns,Inany of thern idone up in styles iOm dime“ nt penOds(barOquc,

neOClaSSiCal, iBiedemeier, SeCeSSiOniSt), painted with various scenes and■ lled with ine funlitulに .IDon't miss the 18th century

cabinet with hunting scencs inlaid with ivory,the 20‐ draw.er `bank'desk and ithe

ncoclassical clockノ music l)ox that still

wOrks.Butthc museum's main amaction is

heCelleCe‖ ing,an enOnnOuSr′っ″P′ ′'ο ′J′ panting in● e manh」 1。 fc。 lumns,towcrs, frolicking angels,noblemen and ladies I。 。 鳳ng down tt you l。 。king up at mem. Completcd in about 16(Ю by a Polish arti飩 e mur」 wぉ meant t。 1li the cenhg up t。 thc sky md it d∝ s just that Othcr pmels

,

represent the four seasons and show scenes

ald 15th centЩ es.When me“ 8● e lo8t iじ S● ■,Cim"“ m"tw田 left"“ (鳳じ " 自ndsubsequent。 ,,neisusedulestohebl∝ k=

fronl Rornan and Greek rnythology. The museum is open from 10a:nto 6 pm■ ヽesday b F day and← om 9 am till noon on Sttuト

o b

ld。 ●ぼ 血■m■ .iacludmg pansご “ ●●LowaC“ tle田 道theOuCoun,Pab.

day.The entry fcc is 6(Ю /400 SIr.

A sIPndngly laBC POdon tma"m● Et. hOwⅣ .飢d hs been庫 o● ,lnduang

wstemendofMuzask trg.At he説 狙 ofme

the 35n“F,odorick￢「(,W● 7.

On your way“ ck to tb=01d“ own you 雌wa■ upω Nichol■ mHお raw(n“ ヽ1 “ ■ew Ofthe csu。 ■O old Town md uE “

Trg Celskih Knezov leads no■ h from thc

″er Castie,built in thc 14th cenmry as a tsidence br tte Celje squaま )you'llfind the Lo、

counts,and atNo 9■ o

NI戯 Ional Ha‖

(Naod

Dom),the cuitural and socid centre for Celje's s10venes at the tum Of■ e cenmry.

∽ ■＞ ﹂ｍ コ ∽ ス ＞

Sttterska― Celie 295

く Ｙ ∽ α ｕ つく 卜 の

296 Sttterska― Celic

PLACES TO STAV

l没譜 R鍋

￨

10 Tuヽ ka MaO嗜 Holo!&lstrska

PLACES TO EAT 3D■1″ 0嘔

"n umnt l10日 灌R03● 21 Mad田 9aCa Cenar Restaunant

″ Taverm Ko"了

20 McDonaU's 31 Maldlka Rostauran ” ２

100

"Gosllm B0790r

OTHER

2P"Vrtnica Pub m‖ ian Chuに h

６ ７８９   セ ３ ４ ５     ６７ ０  ９ ”４ ５ ６ ７ ¨ ０ ２ ７ １ ー１１ １ １ １ １ ２ ２ ２ ２ 一２     ３ ” “ “ “   ３ “   “ ４ 像 “ “

5 St Ma

0“ d 旧

i“ a山 か

mLO● I●

″ “ P“ ・ 織 b“ 」 」 l

“ 辮 1蟻 H鮨 ““

R“ 薇

″

綸●

i。 ,■ ■ ",●

`

鶴商dM" 出ど“ M● 昭 ●● 疇 `"=● M, 鏑 i盤 :臨 呻 間ag臓

A3●■●

■は ,a劇 輛 ●」麟●餞 " 0● H“ “ “ 晰 、0山 誡

1][“

'2

&Globtour

Tは v● !A● o“ ッ

I需 IA90暉 搬欄 PLOu● Lplぬ

Pilbr

"

Old County Palacl,

utt d

懲寵語

Water To"r H07● uleS TOmple

m需

じ ,出忠

ce,O casu●

s

“

Celie ■ “

Both buildings now contain art gallenes

you might consider a day=ip 10knl soutll to

open fronl 10 anntill lpnl and fron1 4 to 6 pin

the spa('731312)at Laも ko,atown equ」 ly cclcbrated for the beer which has been

Tucsday to Friday and on Saurday moming. Walking eastwa・ d」 ong PreScmova ulica, you'1l passthc Museum of Recent Histo:γ inthe fonnertown h」 l building(1830)at No 17.11le muscum gives glory to our f

ends,

brewed hcre sincc 1825 and for a rcnovated castic callcd Tabor.Sorne Slovenes say tlle

gourmet restaurant there(Na Taboru;'731 's finest. 600)is the count:、 ′ The Scζ ko

the Counts ofCelje,andisajumbleofitems like postcards, weighing scales, weapons frorn ttland― cgad!― a dental surgeon's c。 llection.■

also contains Hleman's Den

Riding Centre('778282)at

Socka(house No 33),15km nor

of Celje,

has horses available for hire for experienced ndcn,and offiers iessons to beginners.'I｀ hc

(HermanOV Br10g),the firSt Children'S museum in Slovenia.Thc Museul■ ofRecent History keeps the same hoursぉ the Celje

centre is in stunning countrysidc on tlle edge

Regional Museurn.

from 9 anito noon and frorn 2 to 6 pnl.

C)pposite the inuseum is the Minorite Church of Malγ ,Where he

)nesoftheCelje

cOunts Once rested. Until recently a relief

depicting the Madonna and Child and thc coun、 Hermall ald Hermm Ⅱhung」 x,vethe door、 vay leading from the nave into the sa)―

nsty,but thtt too has disappeared.Nothing is forevet it scems,inthe ChuК h of Maly PreSemova ulica leads to Giavni trg,the heart ofthc Old Town.It is■ 1led wi■ lovcly

17th and 18th century town houscs and,in surniner,loutdoor caf6s.In the centi℃

)of the

square, whcrc a pillory once stood, is thc

ofthe Poho」 e Massif.Itis open in summer fron1 8 to ll anl and 4 to 8 pnl and in winter

The C`ケ

Jグ

ιliStS a numb3r Of WakS

`G“ and hikes into the surrounding countryside lasung beh″ cen one and four hOurs. ・ he

「 longcst onc(28km)leads south‐ cast to nm ￢ovst(834m)and the picturesquc vmagc of Svetina via the Celjska Koё a mountan hut. his can also be done by car or bicycle.

1・

P:aces to Stay

TheDJα ユjDο (● 484420)鑢 巧 ubtanska cesta21,3(Ю m “ westofD江 ,Qu∝ n,¨ cepts travcllcrs in July and August.

Thc cheapest hotel in Cele is thc 60-bcd

requisite plague pi::ar(1776)dedicatcd to

Cι ルjα (●

Mary.

nine―

443151;fax 485 160),al ugly,

storey brick block just a litle north of

east,you'1l ind the Abbey(Church of St

the bus station at Mariborskaccsta 3.Singles and doubles with shared shower and break―

Daniei dating from the early 14th century.

fast are 40CX)and 800()SI′

The church has s。 ‐ rlc inagnincent fiescoes

own shower,add l(Ю O SIT to both rates. The evocatively named rレ ″ ぶた′1ィ αご α (Turkish C江 ;● 442908;fax 483 410),a

In Sloinこkov trg,a few steps to the south―

and tombstones,but its most important item

is the 15th century caved wooden Pieta in

r;ifyou wantyour ￨た

the Chapel of the Sorrowful Mother The

26‐ room

ed stone walls are decorated here with car、 ′

People's Theate■ GledaRka ulica 7,is the

and the vaults wim fl℃ scoes a・ e■ Om the

nicest pl∝ e to stり in Celje with small but coinfortable rooins,a good seafood restau‐ rant and friendly staff.Singles with showet

early 15til century.

PTts ofCelje's medieval wa‖ s and ram‐

parts can be scen dong Ulica na Okopih,

hotel hard by the Slovenian

west ofthe Abbcy Church of St Daniel.

TV and breakね st 9ooo sln

Activities

The Eッ ′ りIPa(宙 443400; fax 443 434) hotel,with 60 rooms,has seen better days

There:譴℃ a couple of open― alr swiin■ ling pools behind thc Merx hotel on巧 ubuanska cesta and an indoor one at the Cebe Fai←

and,despite its good location near the train station at iKirekov trg 4 and its pleasant, helpful staff,it“ mains a gloomy and very

ground atiD)eё kova cesta l,■ orth‐ el鎖 ,t ofthe

dated place.Singles with breakfast,shower

old TOwn.If yOu're nOt saisied with these,

and TV are 6700 SI「 ,doublcs ae 9800 SIn

are 55(Ю SIT,doubles are

∽ ↓＞ ﹂ｍ コ ∽ バ ＞

もtaJerska― CelJe 297

くＹＯ匡日つく卜０

298 Sttterska― Cclje χ hotel(● 452218;fax Thc far― flung iイ ′ 452018)at巧 ubualskacesta39,hasonly 36 ￨′

bcds and may nc)t be very convenientto the C)ld・ 3own,but it is as close as you'1l get to

the SavinJa River ・ here are also public

「 swimining pools behind thc hotel.Singley doubles■ lth shower and breakfa)ta責 )6CXX)ノ

Entertainlmlent The S′ οツ 滋″P`ο P′ ιζτ″ ″ `″ Ljudsko Gled」

5 stages six plays a season, not always in ′ Slovene. rhc box officc (1口 '442 910 or

● 441861)is opcn weckdays from 9 to ll pnl and fron1 5 to 7 pnl.

A couplc of popular discos are J“ ″gセ in

lo,ooo sI'r.

the no■

Piaces to Eat

l'wo pizza places at the eastern end of PTeも ernova ulica can be recomrnended.'I｀ jλ a nothing‐ special iイ α ο′ ソ

he

at No 3 is open

dally fron1 9 ani to 9 PIn,with pizzas in thc

470o570S「 mn辟 .助 ッ

丞化Pcr at No `月 “ 2,and about two centu es younger in style and atnlosphere, has both pizza and pasta dishes.It is open weckdays fron1 9 an to 7 pm and on Saturday frorrl ll ain to 2 pnl.Set lunches go for 650 and 750 SI′ r. :rhe g`r at the southern end of Cο s′:′″α Bι ″

Razlagova ulica has sct nlenus of hearty Slovcnian lood from 690 Srr. The(2,srriσ α江巧ubljmskacesta 5 is one Of the oldest eate

`α `(S10VenSki iRc;SLG)江 GleddiSk trg

m

es in Celje,but its cl

to farnc― it was the mec」 ng placc of an important Slovenian cultural socicty in thc late 19th century― does nothing forthe food. If you wantsornething a bit nlore up‐

to‐ date,

CЮ SSJudё CVa uliCatOthC Dα り 2“

h‐

wcst suburb of Lava(No7),open

most days ti11 3 ain,and(3asab′ α″cα at thc Celje FairgЮ und at Deё kova cesta l,open Friday and Saturday from 10 prnto 5 arn.■ he P″ vrrれ たα pub and caf6 next door to the

Dttry Qucen is a popular hangout as is the centrd υ″ο″α bbな in the Cclski Dom “ βα″F′y pub behind the on Kκ kov trg.The

LowerCぉ tle

on Trg Ceiskih KneЮ from 9 pm till very lat.

vis o"n

Getting There&Away Bus For placeslike Sempetr(stand No 4), Sko巧 a Vas(stand No l)and Sentjur(stmd

No3),go to me bus stops sou■

ofthc trdn

sは ion on UIcaXⅣ Divizle. Intercity buses,which leavefrom the rnaln atleast once an hourto l)obrna,

sし 、 tion,run

Hrastnik,Laも ko,巧 ubljana,Maribor, Rilnske・ Iloplice,RogaSka Siatina,Slovenske ielenJC・ ()ther destinations ν KonJice and ｀ ∝ccssiblc by bus from Ccljc and thcir dttly

″.It'S

freouencies include lBled(onc).Bistrica na

“ OpCn ti11 1l pm(10 pm On Sunday).YOu'11 ′むon Krekov trg. ind alイ c,Dο ″αク

specialisesin lstrian flsh dishes and winc and

SOtli(SCVen),CrnOmC」 (OnC),Crna(tW。 ), Dravogr“ (th“ e),GomJi Grad(two),Koper (four),Kranj(two),KrSko(■ ve),LndNa on the Hungarlan border(four),Logarska Dolina(two to■ ve),IMIurska Sobota(six), M〔 ozirje(eight),Nova Gorica(two),Novo

wasdesignedbytheKarstanistLojzeSp¨ al

Mesto(one),Ormo乏 (thte),Pirm(bur),

(1)ne Of the rl10st intcresung places for a

meal in celje is the rs″sた ακ。 ″οゎα stau_

・ urgika Maё ka hotel, “ rant at the 「 which

(ChCCk thC 10VCly StainCd glaSS).It'S OIχ

n dll

POdё etrtek(Cight),Pt可

(fiVe),SeVniCa

ll pin. Anothcr uprnarkct placc is the

(tWO),VinSki Vrh(bur)帥 d

ルra′ ン ga′ α cellar restaurant at stanetOva ulica “ 4.This would be a good place to try

International destina」 ons include Varaを din

somc ofthe better whitcs from the Ljutomer winc― growing region to the east ofCelje.It's open Monday to Sattlrday frorn ll anl till

Zreё e(thrCC).

in Croatia(at 8.20 am on Saturday and Sunday)and Lenti in iIIungary(Thursday and Samrday江 6.55 am).

midnight.

Train Celje is one ofthe tw rail hubs in dl

rhe責)'s an Outd00r,″ arた ι r selling fresh fruit, vegetables and othcr foodstuffs daily

of Slovenia and,for once,you have a lК

on the corner of Savinova ulica and

Cete is on the line linking Zidani Most (connections to and from LJubljana and

′

Linhal■ ovaulicabehindthe Minonte church.

)al

choicc between taking the train or the bus.

Zagreb)wim Maiborand he Ausman cmes ofGr2 and Ⅵenna FЮ m Ljubljana(89km; 1%hOurS)youcanreach Celjeup024times adり・JuSt aS mmy bu"S leⅣ e CebC br Maribor(67km;70 minutes). A spur linc links Celie with Velenic (38km;50 m uts)via Sempeter up 0 10 times a day in each direction. A third line

connects celje with 2甕 bOk in cЮ aua via

RogaSka Siatina(36kin; 50 1ninutes),

nsamve

Rogatec and I)obovec.Up tO six t凛

and depat each day.

about 250 in honour of Secundanius,it is

obvious that Rolnal pOwer and weath in ぬese pa■ s was」 壼)ady very much on the deCline in the nliddle of the 3rd century.

The n(κ ropolis is oIЮ n d■ ly from 8 ain to

6p■l and costs(KX)メ 400 SIT tO visit.Thcrc's a sindlら お′ο nc`r the eniance but,if you “ want something mOre substantial. the j酪′Srο ′ Cο∫ ′ ″α′ ,('701585),one of tte arst o vate restaurants t。 。pen in slovenia under the 10rnler regiine,is at Sempeter 5a, about 2kin east of tlle site on thc road tO

Cele.It is o"n fЮ m 7 ain■ 1l midnight,

Car&Motorblke Both Kompas and Glob‐

cxccpt on thc nrst sunday of cvery month.

tour rent cars.

Getting Around Pな鳳ng Cm be di

Cultin Cele'S Old TOWn

and you will have to pay handsornely fOrthe p Vilege― upto 1000 Srrperday.Foraloc`■

AROUND CELJE p 39J5。 α lに ・ ′ο

ο′′■'θ6J・ ′οSκ つご 3,ff `ε ￨′

Sorne 12kln west of Celie and accessible by

bus and train,Seinp3ter is the site Of a

Rornan necrop● :is reconstructcd l)etween 1952 and 1966.The bu al ground cOntains four comnplete tombs and scOres Of columns,

steles and fragments caⅣ d wim pOttaits,

nlythological creaturcs and sccnes from ddly life.

Tllernarble stones,qualTied in the Poho■ e near Slovenslka Bistrica between the lst and 3rd centuries,'were washed away and bu ed

when thc Savinga Rivcr nooded in 268 AI).

They have becn divided into about two dozen grOups linked by f00tp“

ag∝ 鬱 鉱L麒 some 12knl north‐ west of Seinpeten "aAl"∞ Bo■ ● by 6o■ 8い ,mdentchu“ bes,‐■‐

the甑tmlS

taxi nng● 442200.

Sempeter

uPPER ξ Vミヽ ЛNJA VALLEV し,“ , ・ ″ “ “ ■澪 0聾 Hヽ ●aⅥ 」り ￠ p●,3SⅣ Dolim)佗 ぉ撼ω●eainage雷 eand● bu_ "gL 腱 ies Of● e sav● aRVげ n。 ■“1:8 mur∝ n

hs.

￢olmlb No l,the oldest of thein dl,was coninussioned by(〕 allus Vindonius,a Celtic nobleman who lived on anearby cstate in the ′ lst century. rhe largest is the lPriscianus

tomb(NO II),r」 sed in honour of a Roman ofHcid and his son。 (No● ceぬ e Ldnapping

,

■mmf"山 ω 鍮 ;mdAlpim"よsofmoE “ tha 1 2(XX m,me vaLy 18aland dliacomp3 nble L皿●メnc“ at“d tles het“ 誕 eve,tast― ●om hi● ng,m ount“ nb:」 ●3“ 田dc,k dimung o■ i嘔 ,kayaШ .3 am

wmmingintL sav●

a.

The saⅥ n」 a begins L iⅢ d nOw■ 。℃ R遣 、 da's higL“ w“anu. "9(h b四 slo‐ then entes 贔 una■夢 vtty) md cottinu● :郎 t iso口 “ od halle“ 鎗 d ●mualこ lhe t"口 1に yond饉 。3。 .e“

L,ubЮ

鰺91te

dlⅢecnヽ

Wib a mmberof

tOWnS― r」 ,α BЮ Wm larS― Of h:8‐ “o. ine:uding RAdmirJe. tOnCal i口 Porianα

Go■,i(■

4N画

●e md Moz詢 C・ Toolsfoundin acNt:1!Mt OBev■ no口 1-

We"Of SO103Va Village.=u88● 6t u 」le U"CrSwi"a Ⅷ Ly wttin■ ● i“ d dun嘔

●e So:E Age.1鰺mins of Ⅲ Romm 口eme:t=L.℃ 」∞ b∝ nЩ “ aЮund Mo」 “ ●e The vmey hs bem “α Plolta n), “ lts umLr sl∝ be MlddI● Ages.and uml

is the Ennius tomb(No ⅡD with“ lieお of

WWIIthe SavmJa w88 us“ b"Wa ttne 2(X)sawm」 ls. Ransnien trms,)Oited t1lc

anim」 s and,On the frOnt pな lel,mc prmcess Europa nding a bull.If you compare these three witll the inOre l℃ cent tomb erected in

"憲 勁 山

SCenC On the SidC dief.)■ le mOSt beautif01

umbe=“ m勁 m"Mo2"emdCe」 emd )01● elo3s mltlled s"s Romml& “

deけ。ugh`Weal●

and 8P∝ al n“ じ

∽ ↓＞ Ｃｍ コ ∽ ス ＞

Stalerska― Around Ce」 e299

く ︼ ∽ 匡 ｕ つく 卜 ∽

3(Ю Stajerska― Upper Savinia V」 ley

In Nazaric me“ 's a Nova LJubumska

to the v」 ley,cvident from the inany ine buildings still standing hel℃

.

Bankain thc bullding ncxtto VrboveC C:astle

The f0110wing itinem,10110ws the 45kin valey Ю fromMozttetoRinkaWaterf江 1, with a side trip Ю RadmlrJc andGomり l Grad.

Onsttiniskacesに Open from 8to ll am and

It can be done by bus or car butit is talo「 made for a bicycle tnp.

In Gomji Crad● e li■ le kiosk nea ne courtyard, WeSt Of the FnaSSiVe barOque

“

l.30 to 3.3o pm On weckdays and from 7.30 to ll a:n on Saturday.

church,houses a tourist infollina」 on centre

Orlen"tion&inform籠 Ion The sindl English‐ language brochure end‐ 」 ′ 動 ′助 ο″ ■ed Zgο ″し Sα ツ」 りS滋 刀り′ 'a― is helpflll ifyou intend spending G“ ′ ′ οοた 'α afair `ら bit of● Ine in the Frea.Itlists numerous tialls,the best places for rock climbing,iso―

late(l fannhouses with accominodation etc. ous hikel、 ,should Pick up a copy ofthe ″α l:50,∞ O map Zgο 潮ノα &ν J可∫滋 DO′ ′

Sc

from GZS. InMo 」e,dEKozmOgpenSiOn(● 831022)

atNaTrgu 32can prOvidcinお mla」 ono Nova

LjubljmskaBmkahぉ

abranch in he Centre

oftown atNaTr即 9;it'sorn weekdays k)m 7.30 anl to 6 plll and tili noon on Saturday.

in summer.Buses stop in mc m」 n squac_ Attemsov trg― in lront of me church.′ nle

Nova Liubl帥 ska Bmka on dle squac is Open weckdaysfrom 8 am till noon and fЮ rn

3o4pm.The post orice is neatも y tt house No 79.Itis Open weckdays fiom 8 anlto 6 pm with acouple ofh」 f‐ hourbreaks,`md on Saturday tili noon.

The Log`rskaDolinatou 飩o∬ ice(● 846 111;fax 846 024)is tt he Plesnik hotl誠 l′

()garska I)olina 9.11lou can`lso seck infor‐

m江 1。n from the staff江 山e entrance m me regional park.

Things to See&Do

The post omce is 2(X)m to the south around

M02irle ThC adminiSiatiVe Cen"e Of the

thebend inheЮ adasavinjskacesta3,田 d

up"rsavinjavaneyonthe

thc bus smtion is on the mι un,oad oppositc

Mozttc(pop 1900)is a bwn with a long

the Sttinjski Ga buanica gaden.

history.1ピ iet it has litie to show for its past

｀肛 U pper laⅥ n, a Valley

ver's leftbttk,

except the much“ )built Gothic Church of

al acaded courtyttd.You can drive upЮ

StGeOrgettthcwestcmendofNaTrgujust

n10nastery Or clinlb to it up 200‐ odd steps.

thc

crOss the snlall T'rnavaStlで ,ain「 Y10u

The Burger Horse Riding Centre(● 831

might walk over tO Savinistt Gal(SavinJa Grove),a botanic Pa・ k with an Open‐ air

265)at Laё ja Vas(housc No 22),in a beau― dml vaney 3km south‐ west of N(厖 atte,has hoses for rent.Cariagc ndes are dso avall― able if there a・ c enough people interested.

al■ eryOu

ethnographic museum south of town acrOss the river(open ADnitO(Dctober).In wintet cOntinue 4kin north― westto ZckoVec

where a cable c`r mnsto■

le ski ccntre at

Golte(● 831111).Thet are slopcs ofup to ise, 15(X)m and 12.5krn of ski trails.()thcrЧ′ there'slittleto holdyou in this one―

horse town.

Nazale Thetown of`Nazaeth'(pop 1835) is 2km due south OfiMlozile on the SaVi■

vrbovec(castle,a15th centul●′pile

a.

at the

cOn■ uence Of the savinJa and Dreta rivers, has a couple oflarge towcrs;today the Cそ Stle hOuses a rnusic schO。 l and ofices oftheGlin

101BngcOmpaェ ●chdustyhatbuiltN2a〕

e.

・1lowering above the town on a hill called e is the Franciscan rnonastery and G:radiζ ё

its church ofthe Virgin Mary,which were dl but nattened by Allicd bombs dunng vvwvII but have since bccn rebuilt.'「

hc twin―

spired church has a choir lo■ with fine gnil

wOrk;the ongind chapel,built by Bishop TOmtt Hren Of ttubjana in the caly 17th centuly,now serves as the preSbytery.The monぉ tery has a lovely gaden surounded by

RadmirieTheroadtoRadmiric(poP 440),a vinag,9km to me west,is vcry picturesque With StttCrSka‐Style hり r¨kS,littlC White

churches and stOne famhouses larger than the average in Slovenia.About 500=n before me tum― off to Radmi」 e and Kamnik,he

PrOdnik spOrts Centre(lr 841 317)on the main rOad at JuVatte 1 0rganiSeS kayak (29oo sIT), canoc and raFt trips on the S"inja and also rents equipment Radmiゴ eis famOuS fortwo chuК hes.The church of Sit Michaeiin the centre oftown dates frOrn the late 14tll century.′

rhe ChurCh

of St Francis XaVier,on StraZa Hill to the

south_west,has been rebullt severa times Ovcr the ccntu es;the p責 ,sent structurc is Only about 200 years old.Itヽ vas cstablished

as a pilgrinlagc church by the bishop of GomJi Grad dunng aperiod ofglに atires and ■le plague.European monarchs pad hOmage at the site and the church's rich treasury

cOntains Mass vestinents donated by the kings Of Poland and F'rancc and a gold

chalice frOm IIabsburg Emprcss Maria Theresa. There's an old wayside shrine

′ ,with f。 lk pantings in thc little ゾ `″ dale “ below the church. 2″ α

Gornil Grad This windy tOwn(pop 1845)in the lzladreё ka Valicy 6kln south‐ west of Radmi」 c was the sitc of a lagc cお tle until

thelast days ofwⅡ whcnit was natened. Today,all that is le■

is the entrance to the

fo■ iication and two defencc towers.

Gornji Crd(Oberburg in Ceman)Was ぉsociated for CenturieS With the ttubttla diocese.'The fOrmer Benedictine rnonas‐ tery, for example, was convel・ ted into a

manOr houscお r Liubljana's bishops in the 15th century.Today,one of its towers(江 This、 ″ aterwheelis part ofthe diSplay atthe

Open_air ethnographic rnuseum near Mozile.

A■ emsov trg 2)contains a smallfolk co‖ ec‐ tion with everydり Objectsrelatingto llた on

り ↓＞ ﹂ロ コ ０ バ ＞

Staeska_upper SavinJa Vdley 301

く︼Ｏｒｕつく卜０

302 St」 ersh― Up"r SttinjaVallcy the Menina Planina, an area of inOunt`un pastures and s10pes sOu■ l oftown.Itis open

weekdays iom ll a:nto 4 pm. In the sarne complex,the lage b"oque

ChurCh Of〔 洸3 1HerinagOraS and Fortu‐ natus was builtin the nlid-18th century and

mOdelled afterhe Cathedrd in Liubjala.ItS enornlous,56in‐ high dorne notwithstanding, the interior ofthe church is surprisingly light

and airy.The side dmr pictures by the 18山

century Austrian artist Martin Johann

Logarska iDo:ina Most of the glacial`For‐ esterValley'― about7.5kin long and nornore than 500■ l wide― has been a rcgiOnal park since 1987. This`pearl ofthe Alpine region'isa wOn― derful place to explore fOr a few days with

more than 30 natural attractions such as caves,spnngs,peaks and waterf11ls. ■le pttk iS Open eVcry day iom Aprilto Septeinber(atthe WeCkCnd Only in Octobeう Cars and inotoК yclists entenng the park must pay 700 SIT;cyclis“ and hikers gctin

ci」 ly

Kremser‐ Schmidt(1718-1801)are espe― ine.10utside,nea.山 e entrancc,a℃

free.A single road goes past a small chapel

bits and pleces from an carlier church,

md thЮ ugh the woods to Rinka Waterfa‖

including a 16th ccntury`:itar portraying the

the main cvcnt here,but the“

cmcinxlon ofSt Andrew.The fountaln in the

trallS Ю

cou■ yard still appears o be a meeing place for iocal peoPle.■ be church is Open dally fron1 9 ain to 7 Pm.

Llubno After this Юwn me Upper S"inja ｀ _ぼ

VI11ley begins to fecl― and sineⅡ uly Alpine,with the nlountains sO close you can

,

a“ plcnty of

explore and up Ю 20 alditiond watransin he area.

The bottonl of Rinka Waterfall is only about 10 nunutes on foOt frOm the car park and yOu Can Cliinb to the top in about 20 nlinutcs.It's not very dificult,butit can get slippery;you'1l prObably cncounter seve“ 」 pCOple uSing ski poles for balance.IFrom thc

alnlost touch thenl,tllc hOuses built entirely

top ofthe falls to the west yOu can see th鷲

of wood and the heady scent of Pine in the ・ he road coninues′ 、 ai■ long the winding

DeakS reaChing higherthan 22(X)nl:I【 raniska kinka,KoЮ tta nka andも ttterska Rilka Unti1 1918 they forined the triple border of

I｀

SaVinja,paSt WOO“ n b

drS,mOre hay‐

racks and,in a gorge 4knl beyond LuOe and visible from thc main Юad,a cu ous rock

tower caned igia(Nccdle).Just befo“ Rogov‖ c,the

usual starting point for c`Iloe

and kayak tnps on thc Savinり a,thcrc's a turn

south to Robanov Kot,a prisine valley and protected Park with trails and farinhouse accorninodation. '1lo thc north―

east of Robanov Kot and

below Mt Raduha(2062m)●

crc's an icc

CaVC Called Sne二 na Jama(aCtu」

ly`SnoW

Cave';'723 211 lor inforinatlOn)open to the lpublic at the weckend in surnme■

It is

)e

Camiola(KranJskり ,Carinthia(KoЮ こka)

mdSり ria(StalerSkO.

Opposiに Dol■ Planincev is a trallcaling a Cave. Another nlagnificent and rnuch less

tO Suも ica Waterfa:l and Klerrienё

explored valley,the 6knl-long Matkov iく

ot, runs parallel tO Iン ogarska I)olina and the border、 vith Austria.ヽ

rOad by turning Wcst as `ou you can leavc reach Logarska here by I:)olina.Sornc think this valley was Oncc a lake. 11lere are scvcral farnlllouses in the valley with accOmmodation. The tourist oficc atthe Plesnik hotel can

organise any number of activides _ frOrn

accessible by car via a forest rOad.

horse nding(1300 SIr per hOur)and coach Soleava A1 642m the highcst tOwn in the v」 ley,Solё ava has sOnlc lovely roa】

:narke、

with folk icons and paintcd bams.To the

.

rldCSうOr up to ive pcople(2500 SIT｀

)to pTagliding(4000S11),guided mount“ n―

nonh is thc Alpine villagc of PodolSeva, where you can spend the night. I「 he rOad fronl Solё ava to Pod。 lSeva,which continues west and down into Logarska Dolina,is one

eering(10,000 SIT fOr four people)and rock Climbing up to gradc IV(16,000 SIT).It dsO rents mountaln bikes for 4α )SIT Ittr hour (18(Ю SI「 fOr six hours).Nonresidents can uSe the swiinining p。 。l and sauna at the

ofthe inost panOramic in Slovenia.

Plesnik hotel for 1400 SIT a day.

P:aces to Stay&Eat

ljc 950 SIT pcr person,isin Vaり 。

οg gucst house(1● 831 ln MOzi]c,thc」 (ο そο″

bank whilc sα

022)al Na Tigu 32 has a dozcn doublc roorns

SIT)iSin SpOd判 C

Priccd at I)M20 pcr person Thc restaurant (OpCntO II Pm.10 pm On Sunday)iS a Simple

Naza]C,thc(〕 οsrぶ ご

but incxl)CnsiVc affairi fOr SOnlCthing bCttCr try tllc(フ

α/rcstaurant at thC bOtanic gardcn

Thc L`1,て,こ

1｀

armhOusc(奮 831861).nOt hr

仔Om Saviniski GaJ in Lokc(housc No 19), has fivc roo11ls and is opcn all ycar

Somc 3knl wcst of NazalC you'li find a cOuplc of camp sitcs on oppositc sidcs ofthc rivcr ν ,加 α (● 831787)、 which chargcs (,′

on thc left

ν 」 ″ α(奮 831463;650 to 800 ソ PObrCttC On thC right・

In

αグ ソ,′,ο ν′ rcstau― rant is in thc cornplcx ncxt to thc castlc at

`G′

`ヽ

SavinJska ccsta 8.ヽ 4ou'1l also find thc sirnplc 6)た

″ ′ r,ι

′S and a piZZCria CallCd α′ ″′ εα′ Zο ′ `ν

Pα ′ :′ α hcrc

in(]ornJi Grad,thc 25-bcd 7]´ οわ

gucst―

`ソ

hOusc(奮 843006)at Attcmsov trg 12 has dOublc rOOms with showcrs for DM60.Thc dcccnt F)′

α9θ 2is at Attcnlsov trg 25,but ′ ぇ′′ ぇ

if you necd sonlcthillg lllore substantial,try

ｍ¨

Ｚ訓、

Ａ鰤 ︶

Logarska I〕 olina (■ ogar

Valley)

l

V盤 ▲ 群,

1

Au STRIA

ヾ ポ ゞ ヽ

鮨 綺,“口1.■ “

▲

協

摯Ⅲ

０■＞Ｌｍコ∽ス＞

Stttcrska― Uppcr SavinJa Vallcy 303

くＹＯ匡回つく卜０

304 Sttteska― Upper Savin」 a Vallcy Gο s″ ′ ″αPrι Jο ,ユ at housc No 77,onc of “ eatenes in SIovenia.Its aditional

the oldest tl・

specialitics arc boilcd bccf with hOrseradish

and Zlikr06(S10Venian`raVi01i'madC With CheeSe,baCon and ChiVeS).Pri J。 こ ku iS Open daily,cxceptヽ Viednesday,till 10 pnl. In Logarska Dolina,the ZogarsttLDο ′ ι ″α camp sitc(● 846086)lics about l.5km'om

thc park cntrancc at Logaska Dolina 8.The rッ

α″″αfarmhouse(● 846070)nearby dso

I)M9()to I)M100,tlle double oncs I)M150 to I)M160. ■here's no sho■ agc of places to eat hel℃

either Along with the upmTket“ staurants 江 the P′ ι ∫ ″ル hotcl and the Dο Paル ″たis “ Rinka, the Dο ″ P′ α″′ ″ε′ッ, 2.5kin from which has a relaxed,rustic tel Ю it.There's a simple snack bar cancd R′ れたa nca.the car

park close to he wacrfall and anOther in a tall w。 。den tower caned οr′ 。ν o G″ 。 `z′

offers acconllnodation forlD)M28 per pcrson. A couple of kilornetres fanher south are two nlore farnthouscs charging the sanne rate―

(lEyric)overlooking the falls.

Lι ″ar(●

Fronl MozirUe,thcre is an hourly bus sen′ ice to Celje.The“ なe ive buses a day to Gornり (]rad,one to Iく こ arnnik,thrcc to Solё ava and six to Velenje.Up to three buscs a dり Ongi‐

846103)at Loga・ ska Dolina ll and P′ :,た (● 846220)at No 13. ・ hc`s′ 24-bcd Dο ″, Pα ′ 々 gucsthouse I｀

`″ (● 846088)nearby is abitupina・ kct(DM40 per perSOn)but nOthing COmCS C10Se tO the new 64-bed P々 s″ Jた hotel(● 846024;fax 846110)at】 し ogarska I)olina 10,one of only

thi℃ c

private hotcls in the country. IIOpe‐ fully, it indicates the directiOn that the Slovenian hotel industry will be taking in future.It has a pool,sauna,a fine l℃staurant and lovely public`u.ca,but don't expect all that to cornc chcaply: the single rates are

Gemng There&Away i

nating in Celje continuc dong ttc v」

ley

road to Logarska I)olina and the Rinka Waterfall c″ park.

FЮ mGomjiGrad,buses goゎ Celje(three a day),Kamnk(up to five),町 ubljana(■ ve),

Liubno(bur),Mttibor(one),MloziliC(10), SmiklaVを (Cight)and Vele」 C(tW。

)・

an early n10rning buS On Sunday tO I」

I)olina fronl May to Septernber only.

There'S

OgaFSka

Koroska KoroSka(Cannthia in English,Kal■ じn in German)is Slovcnia's smanest pЮ vincc― a

HiGHLIGHTS

ofWヽ ■,Cな inthiaincluded avcW l証 gc aca 霞 well asthe c

O IExperienco a sightseeing flight Of the Mishnia Va‖ ey from the KoЮ も ki AeЮ club

es of Klagenfurt(Celovec)

and Vill¨ h(Bctak),both now in Austia l【oroも lka,a region of dark forcsts,moun― tains and highland incadows,is essentially

south of Siove●

Muta,ono of the oldest churches in the country

just threc valleys boundcd by me POhOIC

・

Massif。 1l the cast,the last ofthe Karavankc

peよ s(Mt Peca,whcrc good King MatJtt is sald to be resting)。 n me west and

фc

Gradec

・ Vist the Rotunda of St John the Baptist at

Soo tho 1 5th centurゝ

′ frescoes ofthe:=inal

Judgmentin the Church ofthe Holy Spirit in Siovenl Gradec

hills

of Kobansko to thc north.'T'he I)rava Valley n】 ns east to west ancl includes the towns of

I)ravograd,Muta and Vuzenica.Thc Mcttica and MislinJa v」 leys fan out froln the Drava; the forincr is an industnal arca with towns lkc Rttne md Pκ vate while the ltttcr's nlain ccntre is SlovcnJ Gradec. IくoroSka is an excellent area for outdoor activities, including skling, 1lying, horse

nding and cspccially hiking.The E6】

Euro―

pean Hiking Trail running from thc Baltic to

thc Adnatic cntctt Slovcnia a Radlje,and the Slovenian Alpine Tral from Mそ ribor to Allies aftcr WWI, SIovcncs living on the northem side ofthe Ka・ avanke,the 120km―

Ankaran passcs through thc heart of Koroζ ka.Parts of these trails can be easily covered彙 ol■ many towns in the a・ ea.

long rock wall that scParates much of noll:h―

west and north― ccntral SIovenia froin

History

Austl■ a,votcd to put their econornic future

Korogka has a special place in the hearts and lTlinds of most Slovenes.The Duchy of Car‐

in the hands of Vienna, while the mining

mtania(Kaantanija),the irst Slovenian―

Slovenia.Understandably,the results ofthat

and Siavic,for that matter―

region of the Mcを ica Vallcy wcnt to vc)te have never sat very

state dating back

、 vell with thc

Slovcnes on the southem side of the rnoun― tains.In fact,under the cornrnunist regime, school children、vere taught a very different version of what actually took place in 192(). Thc factre:nains thatthe Slovenian nation lost 90,000 ofits nationals to Austria(along with 400,000 to ltaly and 5000 to Hungan′ ―

to the 7th century,was centred here,and the

word`Cannthia'is derived from thtt naine. lhe region was heavily fOrtined with castles

dunng the Middle Ages and,frorFi the 12th century onwa・ d,was an impo■ ant cultural and a istic ccntre. 1)cvelopmcnt caine to western KoroSka in the carly 19th century With the Opening Of iЮ n mineS■ PreVaUe and Ravne na Koroこ kenl;in 1863 a railway

peOplC atthe time)and it Still rankleS.In One

linked Maribor with Klagenfurt via the

popular guide to Slovenian art and architecture

nlountain pass at IIollncc.

publshed in L」 ubljana,Slovenian KoЮ Ska

somc 37%ofitttota populauon of l.3m■ 1lon

is retrrcd b asthe`Cannthian comer'.

In the plcbiscite ordercd by the victorious

305

バ０■００バ＞

mereshadow ofwh江 lonce was.Undlぬ eend

・ View the paintings of Jo2o・「 isnikar at the Ga‖ olγ of Fine Arts in SloveⅢ Gradec

306 KoЮ Ska― SlovenJ Gradec

くＹ∽０ 匡Ｏ ｙ

SLOVENJ GRADEC

αε οど θ6θ2・ ′ο∫ ′ cο ど ′23∂ θ ・ ′ο 768(χ )。 αθ `● “ Slovcnり Gradec is■ otthe capital of Koroζ ka

,in the Middle Ages and nunted its own coins. ccntury.It was an ilnportant trade centlて

Later it became an imponalt culturd and

―that distinction goes to the industial ccntrc of Ravne na Korogkem to the north‐ west―

atislc centre with maly artisans ald craft guilds.But the town did have its shae of

but it is cerレ unly tllc province's cultural and

troubles: the'I'urks attacked several drnes frorn the 15th century; the MislinJa Valley wぉ ravtted by l∝ us“ in 1477;and Slovenj

recreational cent℃ .A nurnber of rnuseuins, galleries and histoncal churchesline its inain

square,and the spolting OppOrtunities in the Pohoje Massifto the east are endlcss.Itis a WOndelfulつ laCe fOr a bnefStODOVer en rOute to Stttcska or Aust a.

Gradec was captured by the Hunganans under К 【 ing Matthias Corvinus ll ycarslater

Anlong thc prolninent Habsburg nobles bascd in Slovenj Gradcc over the centu cs weК membes oftheWindisch‐ Gぬ セ family,

History

a vanant of thc Gcrnlan narne for the town

The histoり of SlovenJ Gradec is cbsely tied to Sta Trg,a suburb south― west Of the 01d

￨′ おc″ (or″ ι ′ む。みり oⅥ ndsch Gmz).ル И′ `′ the general Gennan word for`Slavic'until the 19th century.`《 〕 radec'is SIovene for`Graz'.

Tlown where there was a Roinan settleinent

w6

Called Colatio from the lstto the 3rd centu―

es.At th■ time an important Roman road

Orientation

frOm CCICia(Celje)tO Virunum(nCar

Slovenj Grd∝

Klagenfurt in Austria)passed thrOugh

colourful `square'Of 01d town houses and shops.Castle Hill(Graski Griё )and Stan Trg arc to the west and south― west;the nOnh_

Col誠 lo.A castle caned Grez to the west of the Old Town is irst mentioned in the late llth century thOugh a fort had probably StOOd On the site as early asthe late lron Age.

's m

n streetis Glavnitrg,a

ern side of the Old′ Ibwn is scan・

ed by saw

′ the settlcment shiftcd to an an3a bct、 、 een the

mills and paper facЮ nes. The bus station is about 400nl nonh― cast Of the tOuriSt OffiCc at IPohorska ccsta 15.

MiSlinJa and Suhodolnica rivell,in the 12th

SIovenJ Gradec is nOt On a traln line.

Slovett Gradec cainc into its own when

KoЮ Ska― Slovenj Grad∝ 307 inforrnation ′ The tounst ofFicc(1● /fax 41 940)on the ground n。 。r of the foriner town h」 1江 Glavni trg 24 cal provide infonna」 on and arrange acconunodation.Itsellsguides tothe regiOn,inCluding the uSeful(but eXpenSiVe

`わ

′ ″s勧 ′ り

″

in

on1 7.30 am to 5.30 pm weekdays

and tili noon on Saturday.The A Banka branch in the fonner Rotenturn inansion at Solska ulica 5 is open from 8 m ll銀

l ald 2

to 7 pm weckdays and till ll anl on Satulrday.

SKB Banka has a branch at Francetovacesta

English.The oface is open's′weekdays frolm

7 opcn weckends fron1 8.30 ain till noon and

9 am to 4 pm ald till noon on S■ urday.

2 to 5 prn.

Kompas(● 41152),GlⅣ ni

trg 38,will

'I・

hc post ofice is at the northern end of

answer gcneral quesdons and book pnvate

Glavni trg on Francetova cesta. It is open

roo■ ls.Itis open fron1 8`unto l pm and 4to

Monday to 11liday from 8 ain to 6 pnl and till

6 pm weekdays and till noon on Satllrday.

noon on Saturday.

l

a)

K◎×

¨ 一

一 一

Slovenj (E:radec

０ ”

ｏｎ

puCES TO STAV ゛

17 Ko「

lp●

●Hd●

:

PLACES TO EAT

l Pi201a Tu“ t

OTHER

2 BusS● ‖ on 3 SKB Banio Cent● 5 Post Or● o 6 Pod Volbom Cef6‐ 4 Cultur」

Pub

8M団 in3饉 Kniba

9議 鵠 1脚 Mtton

10 A Banka ll Tound O“ o&Mυ ums `Ю o 12 Ver"‖ :い Hoに o Sta● i●

13 Nova Llubllanska Banka 14 Salo● MaI SiК )o nり

°

l:躙脚″ ♀ 魁確:型1認・

ly Spint

:♀

バ０コ００バ＞

■ 15∞ SIr)G“ ″

Nova ttubumska Banka■ Glavnitrg 30 is open iヒ

308 Koroζ ka― SlovenJ Gradec

MladinskaKnjiga,thc bOokshop atGl館 ni

′

rhe items on display at the sokllё

trg 6,has regional maps if you've arriVcd in

Museum in thc church rectory at 'rrg

[oroSka unprcpared and want to do sOrne

The fOnnertown h」 1■ Glavnitrg 24,whcrc

Svobode 5 wcre arnassed by Jakob Sokliё (1893‐ 1972),apricstwho began squilTelling a,way bits and bobsin the 1930s.麺 ong the medioclに wttercolours and oils of peasant idylls and the umpteen po■ ralts of Hugo Ⅵbif(a S10Venian COinpOSer WhO WaS b。 lm at Glavni tg 40 in 1860)are green goblcts and bcよ ers from nearby Gl疵uta(an impoト

the tourist o■ 'ice is located, contains tWO

tant giass‐

I《

hiking.It is open fIて ,in 7.30 anlto 6.30 prn

weekdays and till noon on Saturday.

Slove]Gradec'simedica cente(● 41031) くＹ００ ＥＯｙ

is muth● 8tofGlavnitrg atPanianskapot16.

Museunns imp。 1●nt

museums■ le Koroこ ka Regional

Museum(open 9 ain t0 6 pm Tuesday through F:lday and tiu noon on Saturday; 200 SIT)has exhibitS On the 2nd ■oor devOted tO the histOry ofSlovenり Gradec arld the Koroζ karegion― frornlocal sportheroes' awards and farlll lmplenlents to rnodels of

malufactunng town in the 19血 embЮ idCw and linCn,に li― g10us artefacts and sonle 18tll century

Centu■ ),1∝ d furniture.

′

rhe stan】 e Of a saint holding a

chalice with a snake conling out of it repre‐

sentt st John thc Evangelist.(In quite a reversed role for a biblica rcptile,a scipcnt once wlrned the apostle that he was aboutto

waniine hospital rooms and schools― and a very good archacological collection on the ground a00■ Most of the latter deals With the】 Rornan settlement of Colatio and inclu“ sjewe■ eW

quaff pOiSOned Wine.)The muSCum iS Open

and other emects taken frOm a slavic bunal

ThesOmbre Church of St E‖ zabeth(1251),

ground at Puttavanea・ Castle I1111.This part Ofthe town h滅 l served as a Gcrman pnson dunngや Vヽ ■I. The Canery of Fine An3 0n the lSt■ 00r is open on the same days as thc l℃ giond muscunl but closes betwecn noon and 3 plm on weekdays and adnllssion is 300 Srr.Ithals rotating exhibits but counts anlong its per―

on request;ask atthe regional nluseunl orthe tourist ofice.

Churches the town's oldest structurc,is atthe end of

Trg svObOde.Butぉ ide from the Roman― esquc nave and acouple of windows,al■ lost evcrything herc is baroquc, including thc massivc gold」 tar and the dtar p」 ntings done by loc」 anist Franc Mih`EI Strauss

(1647-1740)and his son Janez Andrei Strauss(1721-82).FTmoc intrestingisme

manent collection African folk an, bronze

15th century Church ofthe Holy Spirit next

sculptuコes

door with an interior covcrcd with Gothic fК scoes by And“ jofO■ ing.The 27 pancls on thc north wall replesent the Passion of re ofthe Ch st;the scenes on the archway ι Find Judgment.As dways,the most disturb―

by Franc Berncker(1874-1932) and ndve paintings by Jo営 c■ snikar(1928-). Tisnlkar is arnong―the nlost interesting and onginal altists in Slovenia,and his obsession with corpses,disto■ ed igures and oversized

inSCCtS(perhapS inSpired l)y that iOCuSt att〔 じk in tte ltte 15th century)is at once s″ αЙ disturbing and funny.Don't miss Rοゾ

′ ο α セ′r). S″ ″ r′力α ″ Dι α″ Pα ′ 「 Thc pantings ttc di vcly'and black S′and blue. `B′ The interesting sculpture in thc courtyπ d is ofthe F“ nch poct Cuillaume Apomnaire done by Ossip Ziadkine in 1946.()utside the

ing scenes a・ e those of the devil leading the

darnncd down,down,down... Stari Trg,where the Rolnans once缶

ol‐

icked,is nothing but an enlpty ncld now,but

on Castle Hill(530m)thcc is the lovingly restored 13th century Parish Church of St

Pancras, the Oldest hall church in the country,with a bell tower that is part of the

town hall is the odd, life―size Venetian

17th century fortifications.′ rhc house to tlle

Horse by contenlporary sculptor(E)skar Kog可 .It hぉ bccome something ofa symbol

left of the church holds the key.Ctstle IIiⅡ is about a 25-minuじ wak to the no■ h‐ west

forthe town.

from sm Trg;just bllow thc calvary and

Iく

loroこ ka―

SlovcnJ〈 radec 309 [〕

its baroquc Stations(of the iCross up the

before continuing up to Mala Kopa(1524m),

hill.If you continuc along thc path pastthe church you'li reach Puζ ёava,site of an early

hut at l102in to the north― west― κοda′ οグ

where it nlccts the lE6.There is a nlountain

Slavic bunal ground.

κ′ ″わ′ J″ Иttο れ (● 44 883 or● 41 7ι ッ “ which is opcn daily June to(Э lctobcr 038)―

Adl

and weckcnds only the rest of the year.′ hc

u03

I｀

E6heads north through Vuhrcd and R“ ue ob II)ravi to Austria while the SIovenian

Alpine l｀ rail carries on east、 vard to Rogla and

Manbo■ There is rnore accommodation on ヽしlikaKopa(1543m)athe Cr″ οッ ぶ たονDο 53410),which is opcn all yeな .Ifyou a・“ e going to do a fair anlount of hiking in the

“ ●e manioa Frst yoil'll come to the SIove"Grad∝ Rlding Chb(● 53547),which hs ho鍬 餘

(●

tr tnt both within the bppodrome and cЮ ssで ounty mdじ nms ω uも Nexti8 the Komさ Aei(Ю lub(● 53630).whch o価e、 10‐minute Sigh｀ ∝ m80ightS OftheMisunla V」 1り for25(Ю Srfo,onepoぉ on“ 〔 n)Sr for up"山 ):15-minut on“ of Ravne. Mclenie md “ DravoJ」 fo,37(X)Sr(ω ∞

setting out.

S1lortteel;証 d2(> lut■ ●じ￨、 cr Mo2● e md Rttje foi 4800 SFr for o“ 0(中 ∝ x)slr`Or drec). Pc、 。

The Cmss Coun“ ,Club〈 ● 53 058 or

● 53 110).2km soutb‐ east of Sloven, Lc8enska ce鍛 .」 Ю htt hoぃ 郎 おr dmg(lα 0. Th“ c ski slopes at withm "SIT Per h側 strl日 ng dis mce oF Sloven,Gr“ ら but the cl∝ 馘 is KoPe〈 ● 42 391 for inform o■ ),1380m ¨ ve“ M」 a Ⅷ le,On“ wttem edge ofthc Pohoっ e Mttξ i■ ■ 8ki gmnds “ and Seven lifい haVe 9ki=1 0f runS “ on Mala Kopamd｀ 峰lkaKoparaks.Ъ 佗田hKo" お■ow the、elen,cЮ d.● =3km■ )uth and 」len 1lm eaSt.■ 1le ski aiea is another 13km attheend oftheЮ .SPCial■ ibuκ s mよ c ●e mnin whtr,depemingon me moMall. “ 1■ eC“ ●。Mお ′ 1を り 。uト `″ lm“ a numborof ts and""レ bi,Cl● triPS m

0誡∝ on

``′

western PohorJC, pick up a copy of the l:50,000-scalc Pο みο′ 7`〈 ]ZS

rnap before

Speciai Events The SIoveng Gradec Sumrncr lFestival of music and other actividcs takes place fr01n

June to Septembcr There is a bOnire and celebrations on Midsummer Night(KК sna Noё )on 23 June.

Places to Stay Thc M′ グ ′R″ camp site(● 53483)isjust `″ beyond tlle airield in MislinJSka I:)obrava.

`sweet Paradise'isasmal,■ iendly placc sct among pinc trccs and costs aboutiDM10 per

pcson.The camp sitc also has bung」 ows (singles/doublcs DiM40/60 including bК ak― faSt),and the Small reStaurant therc is open till 10 prn.

The tounst officc can aTange accommo― dation in′ ″ツ α″ 00″ both in and town for aboutlDM25“per 'S person,but the out listOf is very short.

1'he Only hotel option in town is the 68-

room κο″′αs(● 42295;fax 43 179)a Glavni trg 43. Singlcs with shOwer and

breakfast are 5000 SI「 ,doubles 9(X〕 D SI・■ Tllc roorns aょ )no great shakcs and the dark

the=rtt including some along 3● ot:ons oF the lE6 EuroPα an Hiking and Slovenian Alplhe t,ils.IPoho● e t uninue in SIovenia m●■ et iSnO配 d・ Or“ 8Юn'fOFiun8, them“ wsmdPathsatgenen,お gα

coridors seem to go On fOrever,butsome of

n the wintr 8●ey at in“ mme■ “

lllc P′ ″ α7レ ″ Js′ `r″

TheSlovei mAlplぼ い

Stt T18 m ul● 鰤

lp田 臨

"d Slo詢

thmu」

]Cnd∝

the public areas,including a pleasant cOurt‐

yard Out back,have been redone. Piaces to Eat

江 FranceЮ va ccsta 14 serves something round and doughy with

tOmato sauce on top thatsOme people might

バ０コ０∽ス＞

There at plenty of opponuni● es fo,r∝ re針 tlon near● c alineld in Misunisk,Dobmva sonie 6km s(〉 u」 1-east of Sloven,(lndec; :よ o● eVelen"rond 00 1● 10)お =5km md then urn“ r mother 8CЮm.η 、 bus● Mis■ ■ ]3o!Melenie “ win dioP yOu ofF」 ong

310 1Koroこ ka― I)ravograd call pizza. Still, it's cheap enough and thC peOplc arc friendly. It's Open ti11 9.30 prn.

sIOvenia's secOnd 10ngest river(144krn),

′ ″a lィ rtο , Gο s′ ′

city 12km m the south butjust as old,With a

abOut 400rn north at

“ 24,ls a rathcrchi‐ F.rancctOvaccsta

chi estab―

lishment pOpular wih Austrian tounsts on the go.It's〈 )pen daily ti11 10 prn.

くＹ００匡０望

If yOu'vc gOt wheels,the 7V″ a restaurant at the 130ζ nik fal口

nhOusc,about 4kπ

i north―

wcst OfSlovenJ Gradccin GmaJna(house No 3o),is an cxcellcnt choice.Among the spc― cial

cs of the housc iS Obtta Z ttdOVimi

ch stew with buckwhe■ gro■ s.In Zganci,a たs sぬri Trg at housc No 251 Gο s′ ″″αlイ α″ has ish specialities and wine froln its oWn“ vineyard.

`Drava Castlc'is much smalcrthan its sister rccOrded histOry that dacs back to thc 12th century.It was thcn that the castlc,the ruins Of which can bc Seen on the hilltO thc n()Ith

oftown,was built.Situatcd on a bend in the IE)rava at the pOint where the snlaller Meを a and MislinJa vers■ ow intoit,thc castlc and thc town wei℃ of gre■ strategic impo■ ance for centunes. ・1loday,I)ravogracl is a Sleepy place With

′ 、 sights ofits own.:Butitis a good spring‐ bOard fOr exP10ring the Kobansko Hills to fe、

the north and the I)rava Valiey to the eaSt.

The Austrian border(CrOSSing at Viё ノ

Entertainmlent

Rめ enstein)is juSt 3.5km no■ h‐ west of

Classical music conccrts arc sometimcs held

I)ravograd.

atthc ChuК h ofStElizabem on Trg Svobodc

and thc SlovenJ Gradcc Cultural Ccntre

41193)江

Francetova ulica 5.If you'rc intcrcsted in chatting up Austl■ an busincss (‐

peOple,head fOrthe″ なみたルb江 血e Kompお isc, hOtel between 10 prn and 3 anl.()therЧ ′ thc best placcs for nlecting peoplc include そル。″ caf6_pub at the stan of the P。 ど 、

PoStna ulica,opcn dally to ll pΠ l or nlld― night, and the P′ た Bα ′next to Miadinska

Orientation&information While l)ravograd's historical centre and its main street,Trg 4 Julija,is on the lei bank of the I)rava,thc bus and train stations are

about lkm to the south― cast on the nght bank.

NovaLiubjanskaBanka,o"n from 7.30 anl to 5.30 pnl weekdays and till noon on

Knjiga at Glavnitrg 6.

Saturday,is atTrg 4 Julija42 two doors east ofthe Church of St Vitus.The post office is

Things to Buy Ashop calcd Sdon Mtt atGlavnitrg 32 has

crOss the bridge over the lD,rava.It is open fron1 8 am to 6 pm and till noon on Saturday.

江theeastmendofTrgJulijajustbeforcyou

a g00(lrangc of honeys― a spcciality of this rcgion― and other products produccd in palt

Things to See&:Do

by ourlittle stinging fi・ iends,including hcart―

The Church of St Vitus atttc wcstcm end

shaped honey cakcs and beeswax candles.

Getting There&Away

―ic the top― ofTrg4Julijaisoneofthcmost important Romanesquc buildings extant in s10venia.Builtin the secOnd halfofthe 12th

Buses are frequent to Crna,Dravograd,

century and only recently renovated,it is a

Mislinja,Radije ob Dravi,Ravne na

solid stucture of light brown stone with a high tower between the nave and the srnall circulそ r presbytery.While thc occupants in the house next door arc morc than happy to hand you the key,therc's not much to sec inside except for a bcarned ceiling and a fresco of St Cyril and St Methodius. The

KoЮ こ kem and Vele」 e.Oher destinations served by bus frorrl SIovenJ(〕 radec include

Cele(thr∝ aday),Go輌 i Grad(onc),Legen (eight),LJub」

ana(bur o five),Maibor

(eight),Piran(One On WCCkdayS)alnd Vuhred (bur).

church is used alinost exclusively for wedding ceremonies;Mass is sald only on

DRAVOGRAD

οd′ ■.θ6θ 2・ ′οs`cο ′′237θ ・ ′9735α 9・ ´′ ι `α

Situatcd on thc lei bank of the lDrava,

the patron's feast day in Junc.・

I｀

he(:】othic―

stylc(Church of S)t John on a bend in the

31oroこ ka―

Drava,a shon distance to the west of St

Around I)ravograd 311

Marj″ farmhousc(● 31409),at Sentane1 8

Vitus,has a ine baroque interio■

and open all ycar, has ll. ]Both charge

The basemcnt Of the town ha:i at Trg 4 Julija 7 wぉ usedぉ a Gestapo p son and

between I)M30 and I)M45 pcr person, depending on the season an《 i roonl category.

torture chainber during WII.The hydro―

and many ofthem werelodgcd in town.Thc

P:aces to Eat Trg4 Ju‖ jahasahandfulofbistros,caf6s and snlall restaurants, inclucling thc 7タ ッ α

remains of a bombed― out b dge run par」 lel to the new one overthe I)rava. It's an easy hike north from iDravograd to

36. Pagarat No 34 and the βJs′ ο F■ No `“ “rViα "b′ κ′ α″ε More pleasant,though,is the restaurant at Trg 4 Julija 27 with a back“

the CaStle ruins(nOt muCh moC than a

terrace facing tllc I)rava.

wan);justtum up Pod Grdom,a lane Just

bcbκ theApolonBttatTrg4Julija22.The more energetic may wantto car,On farher into the Kobansko Hi‖ s,where you just rnight cncounter sorne traditional charcoal

bumers.A ci“ ul"s∝ tion of the Ko巧 よ Mountain■

｀

rail leads north Past Go

もki Vrh

to Mt KoSenJak(1522m)and returns to

Gening There&Al″ ay lf yOu're headcd br Crna,IMaribor via Radlje,Prevalje,Slovett Gradec or Velette, count on al)us about every half― hour or so. Thrcc buses a day go to Celje,one to GornJi

Crad,five to LJubljana and two to Piran.

・ here's alsO a daily bus to Klagenfurt I｀

Dravogrd via qstnca.■ hcrc is“ commo― ″J″ st,Dο ″ daion on weekcnds at thc P′ α

(Celovec)in Austna. II)ravograd is on thc rail line linking

κοぶ αた(● 835餌 ).

Bleiburg(IPlibcrk)and Maribor and 】

Places to Stay

tr」 ns

`″

Klagenfu■ (Celovec)in Aus

The 16-room κ グ″,ο ッsty pension(● 84 ,″

a.Up to five

a day depart for Maibor(64km;11% hOurS)Via VuZeniCa and VuhrCd.The Same

370),which recently metamorphosed from a

number icave for Ravne na Koroζ kern and

depressing old cornrnunist― style hotel,is at Mcを a cesta 3 by thc train and bus stations. 1'he cost ior singles/doublcs herc is 280(ソ 4800 SIT,and theκ 's a pleぉ ant restaurant

Prcvaljc(12knl;20 minutes),two of which

witil an outside caf6 in suminer open daily to

An excellent bike tΠ p follows the spectacu‐

10 pm. A bit out of town― about l.5kin norm― wcst ofTrg 4 Julija a KoroSka cesta 48-is

lar lDrava Valley through the lPoho]e and Thc Kobansko Hills,60km castto Maribo■ nver,whose highest Πow isにached■ thc

cross thc borderinto Austria.

AROUND DRAVOGRAD

84440)with 63

start of the surnrnet is at its■ lost scenic at

9000 SI「

BrcznoandjustaboveFala,where it narrows

Capο ″ `nightClub(Open 10 set pm tO 4 am)with`eЮ tic shows'was cleTly up tO entiCe A“ ′ ′ frOm oVerthe bOrde■ Jε 」 Ifyou have your own transpo■ and would

into a gorge.Just before Manbor the E)rava

like to get away frorn it all,consider spend―

great scenery,though.Vuzenica and Muta,

the new τ″ αら

`′=hotel(● beds. Singies/doubles are 70CX)′

and itS A′

WidenS intO a lake With the help Of a mttOr darn. 111ou don't have to go tllat far to sce sonne

ing a night or two in one ofthe dozen Or sO

two very atractive villages,are just 14km

farnlhouses in thc picturesque village of

iom Dravograd.Thetwo towns can dso be

Sentanel in the McZica Valley,6krn north‐

reached on the Manbor bus. ■'he Church of St Nichoias at Vuzenica (pop 2916),onぬ e Drava's ght bank,was

west of Prevauc Prevalic is 12km south‐ west of IE)ravograd and easily accessible by bus and train.'Thc P′ ο′′ r farinhousc(1● 31 1(И )江

Sentane1 3 h`s15 rooms and is open

in July and August,while the nlore isolated

built in the 12tll century and expanded latei

lts outstanding features include a star― vaulted ceiling typicall of I《 :oroSka, 15th

バ０コＯ∽ス＞

clectric dam On the l)rava nea℃ st iE)ravograd was built by Genman soldicrs dunng the war,

312 1Koroζ ka― A■ ound Dravograd centul)′ frescoes in the pol℃ h and an onginal

tier village across

1200s.Its shape,wooden roofand steeple are typical of the province,and the tiny chunch appcars quite content、 vith itsclf sitting in a ■eld with thc hills far bchind it.Thel℃ are fragrnented reliefs On the castsideOfthe apse

the I:)rava frorn Vuzcnica,has chu● ches on both levels,but you wanttlle onein thelowcr

and ncar the west entrancel if you can nlanage to wrestthe key frorn the farn■ housc

town(SpodnJa Mutの near the mttn road. ■'he Rotunda of St John the Baptist,one of thc oldcst churchcs in SIovenia, is an

next door at Liverska ulica 12,you'1l get to

austere round stnlcture built in the early

MIuta is`new',dating from■ hc 17th ccntury.

fortifled wall sunounding the churchyard. Thc ruins of a 16th ccntury castie call bc scen on Piste19ev Vrh nordl― cast oftown.

Muta(poP 3727),atwo― くＹ００ 匡Ｏ Ｖ

sce the 14th century nescoes in the choi■ la・

ger Church or StlMargaret up in Zgol■

The la

Prekmurie P“ kmu」 e,SIOVenia'S`お rgOttn'COmer,iS

HIGHLiGHTS

rnostly a broad plain that extends for ・

kilornetres`beyond the Mura River'.Its iso― la」 on is rooted in history:unti1 1924 not a

nik's masterfui Church of the

Asconsion in the flowor‐ bedecked vi:lag。

Of Bo901ina

single bridgc spanned the sluggish Mura River and crossings were inade by fcry. As a result,Prekmu」 C has pre“ rved some traditiond music,lol鳳 o"and even achi― tecture in its distinctive Pannonian‐

Visit Plo●

・ See the iad Of Prekη u可 0'S Ce10brated floating mi‖ s onthe Mun RivernearVe籠 ol ・ AdmiЮ the wonderu1 14th century fЮ s‐

coesattheChurchofStManininMattand ・ Wa℃ h brthe arrival ofthe whiわ 試o慮 s in

style

sprlng

fannhouses.

﹁コｍバ〓 Ｃコ﹂ｍ

Until the end of VVVVI,alinost all of Prek‐

mu」 e belonged to the Austro― Hungaian crown and a sizeable Magyar nl岨 nority

still

lives he」 e,especially around thc spa town of

ラ ndava,Slovenia's castcrninost city and its

Iメ

oil capit譴

,and in Muska SoboL,which

IIungarians call Muraszombat. In many WayS PEkmu」 e100kS and telS mOre like Hungary than Slovenia,emphasised by the abundalce of white storks,1で rge thatched farinhouses widl attached barns and other

farnlbuildingS underaSinglerOOf(SCe bOXed text entitled The Farmhouscs ofP“ kmulc), a substantid Gypsy popul■ ion― esIЮ Cidly a・ ound the villagc of Puζ ё a west of Murska

Sobota― and thc occaslond Hunganan,style Zα (inn).

dα

For most Slovenes,Pκ kmuic means a

10Cal VerSiOn Ofgο ′ α

pap

ka,a nch pasty called gJbα ″」 εα and `(gOulaSh)COOked Witha peoPle who`re generally inoま )volatile and quick‐ tempered

than n10st Others in the

nation. For travellers the province is a spangboard into Austria or IIungary and a pl∝ e to relax and enjoy one of the mmy

erma spas in the“ gion.wintrs can be vcry cold on the plain,though,and suinmers extremely hot.

MURSKA SOBOTA

White Sbrに make goOd uSe Of Prekmurie'S large thatched farrnhouses and barns.

pノ ユ%り 。α ″a cο d`● θ69・ ′ο s,cο グ ・ ′ο ``恐 ■le capitd and administadve centc of P“ "k‐ mu」 e,Murska Sobota is a scruffy indust 」 Юwn with litde to recommend it,except.fOr

313

314 Prekmu」 c― Murska Sobota

・‐ ・ノ 1ヽ

｀

Piekmu可 e

HuNGARY

Ш﹁匡⊃〓 Ｖ四〓住

an odd architcctural mix of neoclassical,

HungaryprOperviaS」 。vcitOthe sOuth.The

Secessionist and `socialist baroquc' 1)uild―

second event was ultinlately even■ lorc sig―

ings. :But the surrounding countryside,

nincant for the city.with the fOnnadon of the lく ingdorn of Serbs,Croats and Slovenes

potters'villages and thenmal spas make it a

good starting point for travellers to the reglon.

History Murska Sobota waslittle more than a mttket

in 191 8 and the transfer of territory,Murska Sobota found itself more orless in the centre Of Prekmu」 e and deVe10pment“ dly began・

The area was occupied by Hungary dunng

ヽ VII. 7ヽ

town― its name mcans`Mura Saturday', indicating when the ma・ kettook place― until two pivotal events this century.

The irst was the opening of the railway

(1907), which linked Murska Sobota with

Orientation

The centre of Murska Sobota,Trg Zmage eaSt Of large, (ViCbry Square),lieS SOu血 ‐

shady City Park(Mestni Park).The bus

Prekinurie― Murska Sobota 315

statiOn is sorne 400m due south ofthe square

oostumes and lwoodcarvings in the vaulted

on SlornSkoVa ulica next tO tllc I)iana hotel. The train station is about 600m south‐ east of

Trg Zmagc.Just follow Slovenska ulica,he

rooms allnost identical to their IIungarian counterpa■ s.'The rnuseum is Open Thesday b Friday from 10 arn 0 5 pm and on Satur‐

m“ n streetlined with fruitstands andkosks,

day and Sunday to l pm.

sOumwad and tum east on Ulica Arhiteka Novaka. inforrnation Murska Sobota still does not have a tounst ofice.seck assistance from the helplul star at tlle tOunst olnce in Moravskc 'Iloplicc, 7km to the nOrth‐ east.F」 ling血江,the folks

江 s10venlaturist(●

Kompas(● 21312)in the Diana

hotel should be able to help you with qucs‐ tions and an・ angelmentS. S10Venlatu St iS

Open fiom 8.30 ain to 2.30p■ l weekdays only while Kompお opcnSfrOm 8 am to 4 pm Monday to Friday and till noon on Saturday.

Pomurska Balka has a big branch at Trg

Zmage 7 ald is open■Om 7.30 ain to 5 pm

weckdays and saturday o ll.30 am.■ le

SKB BmkaaKoctevaulica14 h8 an ATM andis Open weekdaysftom 8.30 am in noon and 2to 5 pm. Thc rnain post Olricc,which is next door

to Pomurska Banka On Trg Zmar md fκ eS city Pa・ k,is Open weekdays,ol■

7 am to 7

pm,on Saturday to l pnl andon Sunday froln 9 to ll anl.

Dobra Knjiga,a bookshop■ Slovcnska ulica ll,has a decent sclection of regional

■lapsifyou plan to do any hiking in thc area. ■is o"n from 7 am to 7 pm on weekdays ald till noon on Saturday.

Sobota Cal羮 le

A」 ases supporting the balcony on the cast

side,the older chapel on the west and the lovely baroque gable with a clock on the north side.

C)ther Sights Ylou inay be surpnsed to sec heavy artillery

guns and sセ ttues of Yugoslav and Sovict soldiers■ the cぉ tem entrance Of C"y Park.

This is the Liberation Monument,which sOmchow managed to stay in place despite the`housc clealing'that thc庶 ,st ofSlovenia did after independencc. ()pposite the park entrance is the neo‐

Gothic Evangelical Church, the rnain Lumeran"at in Slovenia.Prekmuゴ C has long been a Protestant stronghold,and tlle maり Onty of Slovenian Protestan“ live in this province.'I｀ he church datcs only fronl 1910,

but its ceilings painted With geornctric shapes and nlutcd shades of bluc and green are a lvelcorne relief frorn the ovcコ

Ⅳrought

baroque gold and inarble d6cor found in most Catholic churches.

The Parish Church ol St NIchoias neFr the train station is a turn― of‐ the‐ century stlucture built around a(3othic presbytery with 14th cenmry frc“ oes.

The Muに ka Sobota Ga‖ery■ Kocljeva ulica7 has revolving exhibits and is arguably the beSt g」 lery in P“ kmu」 e・ It'S OpenWeCk‐

l'his late 15th century nlanor house is in the

days from 8 am to 6 pm(to 4 pm on

cent"of Ciけ Pak a thc end ofTrubarieV

MIonday),■ om 10 am till noon on Samrday

drevored and houses the recently renoVated

and from 9 anltili noon on Sunday.

Murska Solbota Regional Museulm on the 2nd aoor;enlにr from the north side.The largeStC。 1leCdOn Ofthe■ luSeuntiS an edlnO‐

Activnies The Rakiё an Castle Riding Cente(●

32

graphic one devoted tO the culture and 鮨alidOnd litSり leSOfthePrekmuleregiOn・

413)is iocated in the grounds of a histoncal

Anyone who has visited such collections in

Lendavska ulica 28.■ 's」 l pretty serious

southemTransdmubiajustacЮ ssmebord∝

dcrs trOtting」 ong stur,with experienced thc Mura or inゎ thc Go ёko Hills Ю the

w■ 1■ nd thc farm implemcnts,pttntedjugs,

castie 2k■ l south― east of Murska Sobota at

■■ ｍ ス 〓 Ｃ コ Ｌ田

ulica l or■

21296)江 Slovcnska

The castle i"elt with Renaissmce and baroque elerllents, is interesting. Have a walkl around the outside to spot the two

316 PrekinurJc― Murska Sobota nolth for aboutI〕 )M20 per hour,but absolutc

Places to IStay Thc closest ca″ Ps′ r`to Murska Sobota is at

beginnens can give it a go in the paddockう or

E)M15. The centre is open dally, cxcept

Moravske Toplicc(scc that s∝ tion).'me

87067)camping ground

Monday,fron1 9 anl tili noon and 2 p■ lto 8 Pm.■ lere'S a Very niCe αl″ in a Wing Ofthe

at a small spa near Verを ej,about 13km south

castle open till 10 pin.

of Murska Sobota,is one ofthe few natulist

7セ ″π ιBα ″οッc,(●

carnp sites in Slovenia. It's open April to

Special Events

(:)CtOber(Indian SurnrnCr prOViding)and

The c`stlc cou■ yard is the site of occasional

costs l190 to 1390 SIr pcr pcrson.Nearby

concerts and at least one lolklore festival in

on the Mum Riverisぬ e last ofthe regiOn's

summer;ask at hc Moravske Toplice bu

st

ofice or tt onc of the travel agencics as tO what's going on.

celebrated■ oating mills.The Dl,α ユ ″ 「 ル らο′ α (● 21 043 or● 22168),a 'Dο =sta Sο “ dorΠ litory south― west ofthe centre at student

Ш ﹁∝ Ｄ ¨ ≧Ｙ ｕ∝α

Murska Sobota

口●

″剖、

血”

●”

120

１●

ｎ‘７

識 1臨

ロ

﹁Ｊ

”こ

ｕ 油    Ｐ      

︲

■ 。 ″ 。Vd`課 "′ “

No l Mini‐ R●ま● umnt 9 Fomo′ Zve2ぬ HaOI a Rostaunnt 15 Bre

ｕ      ”一︱

Restaunant

3R」 h

﹁      ¨ ¨ ﹂ ‘輌珈

κOmp“ Tにvol Agenり

PLACES TO● Aτ 1781● R“●umnt

¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨

PLACES TOISTAV

臨曲 ¨

￨,′

`3■

,,

`2綺

Prekrnu]e― Around Murska Sobota 317 ′

110rngiё eva

suckling pig served with `twice‐ coOked' noodles;and,of course,the gibanica.

ulica 1 5, accepts travellers in

surnincr Only. V√ ith the closurc of the central Zvezda hOte1 0n Trg Zmage,Murska Sobota's hotel accornrnodation options have becn cut in

Entertainlmlent

half― and its budget ones reduced by 100%.

s10venska ulica including R′

AcoupleofPleasantpubscanbcfoundalong

The only central place is the cxpensive αhotel(1● 32530;fax 32 097),a gar= D′ α″

1114 am on F'riday and Saturday.

and brcakfast arc I)M69, doublcs arc 13)Ml14. At those ratcs,you should indced ling

lα

dmes a dayお r Dobrovnik,Gomja Radgona

(via Radenci)on the Austrian bOrder, Lendtta nea me Hung″ im borde■ ЦuЮ ― rner,Maё kovci,Maribor,Moravske′ 1loplice, ′ Petrovci, Rakiё an and rurniζ ёc (via

Piaces to Eat ■lere's m incxpenSiVe b:ル in the m"ket

Dobrovnik or Belinci).Other destinations

sOuth of Trg Zmage olχ n weekdays from .

江 Trg Zmage 8 is no gre■

warmer months the outside terace underthe chestnut trees becornes the focal point of Murska Sobota. It is open to 10 pm (till G“″sた J midnight on Friday and Saturdり ″″ α″ atthe Sobota Casie is open Weekdays )・

Only frOn1 9 ain to 8 pm.

You'1l find better restaurants along Lendavska ulica,a few rninutes walk to the

iom Trg Zmagc.P″

Getting The鵬 )&Away Bus Buses leave Murska Sobota atleast 10

rsた ′ bπ ″

πatNo 35ahtt regiond specidities;this 〃″′ is a goOd Place Ю tw sOmc Ofheloc」 Laも 壼 Rizling wine froln one ofPrekmurJe's wine‐

αat No 39e has simple grOwing areas.7♭ ぶ

include BeltinCi(up tO iVe depaltuitS dally),

Celje via LjutOmer(seven),Grad(s

),

HodoS on the Hungarian bOrder(eight), 巧ubuma via M″ ibor or Liutomer(cight), Omloを (ive),Pirm(諄 。)and P呵 (tW。 ). A bus headcd 10r Lentiin Hungary leavcs

Murska SobOta Thursday to Saturday江 9.10 am. Traln Murska Sobota is on a spur that con― nects it with a main line(t。 均ubljana,

Manbor,Vienna and Budapest)at Olnmoを (39km;45 minuts)。 ■lcκ なe upわ ninc depanures a day, and the train stopS at Belinci,Liutomer md somelmes Vettej.

AROUND MURSKA SOBOTA

diSheS While thC R″ たNο f`mini― reStaurat'

Mattancl

On the corner of l:′ endaVSka ulica and Cvcよ ova ulica is an upmarket Spageta ja

Thc Parish Church of St Martin in this

and picetta.All arc open till about 10 pm. If you're under your own steanl,hcad for ″αR可ヵ at sObo`ka ulica 32 in the cο s″ ′

village 4km nor■ l of Murska Sobota,on the road to Moravske Toplice,contalns wonder‐

ful 14th century frescoes palnted On thc prcsbytery's vaulted cciling and w」 Is by

IBlakOvci, a village 5krn south― west of

Johannes Aquila of Radgona.They depict

Murska Sobota.'rhe Rそ りh specialises in local lood and boasts a huge cellar of l・ egional wines;Plに sidcnt Kuё an e■ s at his country

angels bearing inscriptions,the Aposties, scenes iOm thelife of St Ma n and even a

inn whenever he's in the neighbourhood.

to bc outdone by the artist, the church's

I:)ishes to consider include the bOgraё

bencfactor had his likcness appcarin scVeral scenes on the no■ h arch and west w」 1.

gola乏

(I:Iungarian‐ Style gOulaSh `SOup'); rOaSt

self‐ portrait

ofMasterJohannes hiinself.1｀ Tot

●コｍバ〓 Ｃコ﹂田

っool as advertised. The Ca′ ゼ Πlotl('48118),about 2.5km n。 ■h Of tOwn in the village of Neinё avci, charges about I)M30 per person.

north‐ east

'口

sε οatthC I)iana hotcl rages nlidnight.1｀1le`′ ′

ats10venskaulica52.Its singleswith shoWer

6.3o anlto 4 p■ l and on Saturday till noo■ The restaurant in the zッ `zaa hotel building shakes,but in

ο″(nO ′ lα ′

`means`red'in to Thurs‐ sIovenc)江 No 42,open Monday dり t。 1l pm and on Friday md Saturday dl

ishly p“ nted concl℃te b10ck with 97 roolns

get`unlinuted use'of thc indoor swiin■

'`び

ブ′ pnzes for guessing血 江 ′

318 PrekinurJe― Moravske T｀ oplicc

MORAVSKE TOPLiCE

for between DM20 and DM129 per person,

θθ αε ο ピι口θ69・ ′Osrcο d`9226 ・ a′ ′ ・ ′ο ′ア The therinal spa of Moravskc・ north‐

rloplice,7krn

east of Murska Sobota, boasts the

hottest waerin SIovenia:72° C a souК e and cooled to 38° basins..T・

C】

for use in its nlany pools and

hough it's One Ofthe ncwestspas in

depending On the season and the categolγ ・If you're going freelance, there are roolns available at Krmjё eva ulica 16 and■

No 30

0f the same strcet.A′ α″″ι ″な booked thrOugh thc tourist ofiFce cost i[)M33 per pcrson.

the country― the spnng was discOvcrcd in 1960 during cxploratory oil drllling― many young Slovenes consider tllc clientele tOO

genanc fortheirliking,preferring the smal α ″αれ ′′spa at Banovci.But Moravske `´ “ Tloplice is cvcry bit a health resort gcared fOr 震)creation,with enough sPO faじ ilides to

All the accommodaion at thc Moravskc Tloplice rcso■ cOmplcx shares thc salme contact nuinbers(● 48210;fax 48 607). The ivc― hect`u・ e ca′7,P SJ′ ′can accomrno― date 2(X)guests and is open all year except

I)ecernber. Use of thc swiinrning pool

Ш ﹁∝ ⊃ 奎 一 望 Ш 〓Ｌ

CatCr tO every taste.

nearby iSinCluded in the daily charge(:[)M17 per perSOn).

information

structurcs of little interest― are expcnsive.

Thc rcsort's two hotels_big modern llle tourist office(●

48940;ねx48765)is

at No 3 on KranJё eva ulica,the man thoト oughfare running ettt‐ west thЮ ugh tOwn, and a short distance no ll― west Of the spa

Singles witil shower and brcakfast at the 274-bed Aノグα are DM106 to DMl15 and

doubles are I)M168 to I)M186,dcPending on the season.′ I'he 252-bed 71′ 7″ α′ ,While

cornplex. It is open Monday to Saturday from 8 am to 8 pm(6 pm in winter)and on

cheapet is still gOing tO cOst you a rninirnurn

Sunday to 2 pnl.

the entralcc tO the spa open weekdays iom 8 ain o 2.30 pm(5 pm on Wttinesぬ y)and on

to I:)M152 for a`ioublc. Thc only othcr optiOn at the rcsort is tO stay in One Of the attractive b“ ″gα ′ ο ,s done up to look like tradidonallPrekinu]e “ peasant

Saturday to ll.15 aln.11le post ofFice,near the tourist ofFice on】 Kranjё eva ulica,is open

COOI WhitWaShed w」 Is.They costDM65 to

Thcl℃ 's a Pomurska Banka branch neそ

r

frorn 7 arn to 6 prn and till noon On Saturday.

Thermal Spa

′ he resOni cOunts nine indOOr and OutdOor pools fillcd with theHnd waterand two la・ ge outdoor ones with Ordinaly heatcd wa“ ■ ■he thernlal wateris recornrnended fOrrelief I・

of I)M86 to I)M93 50r a single an(lI)M138

COttages, with thatched or tiled roOfs and E)M77 1or onc persOn and I)M96 to I)M120 fortwo,dcpending on thc」 ine of ycar. The FVお α″ツ′farmhouse(● 48411), about 3km nOrth Ofthe reso■ arDolga ulica 213,haS nine rooms cosing E)1425 to E)M30 per perSOn.CIOSer tO the reSort,at house No

5b in Moravske Toplice village,is the Cοs'′ ′ lα κ ′ ,α ′ (● 48215),aresmurantwith

ofrheumatism and cenain minOr shn prOb_ lems,and therc are enough therapies and

“ accorninodation.

beauty treatinents availablc tO keep you OCCupied for a week.Many visitors,though,

Pol■ urska Banka at thc entrance to the spa

sinlPly corne tO sitin the warnl watet cycle

Open daly frol■ lto 8 pm.A good Place in

in the countryside or walk in thc nearby Vineyards.If yOu're staying atthe resort,yOu get use Ofthe pools fOrfree;Otherぃ ′ ise yOu'll

haVe to pay between 700 and 1500 SIT 10r

・ here's a basic′ ′ a next to the 221`″ ′ I｀

which to sample PrekmurJe's food speciaト itiesis Pο ′ο

,acoupleOfkilometresnO■ h

"蔵 ulica l16.Itis open dally, ofthe spa atiDlolga except T'uesday,fron1 9 am till ntidnight.

the privilcge.■ he spa resOrt also has sevcral

tcnnis cou應 ,a ntness r∞ m/gym and saunas.

Cetting There&Around

PiaCeS to Stay&Eat

BuSeSleaVehOurly from Kranjё evaulicabr Murska SObOta,and there a.c about a dozen a day tO I)。 brovnik.(Dther destinations

The tourist of■ ce can Organisc′ r′ ツ ク′ ′ οο″:S

“

PreknlurJe― Around Moravske′ opliCC 319 I｀

includc Kobiljc(six buses a day),Lcndava via Turnigё e(s ),Ljubljana(onc via

ManbOr)and Maibor The tou

st office

rents bicyclcs for 250 SIr an hour.

AROUND MORAVSKE TOPLiCE An excellent bike triP(aSO accessible on the

Dobrovnik and Kobiljc buscs)is whtt COuld bc callcd Potters'rOad which runs SOuth―

cast"om thc spa.The road Passcs through thc villagcs of Teganovci,Bogo」 ina and Filovci;tO the nOrth are the low Gonё ko ′ I111ls covercd in vineyards. 「 his is not

Teも anovci(pop

frorn Moravske

●コ ｍ バ 〓 Ｃ コ Ｌ ロ

PrcknlurlC'S inost iinportant wine― grou′ ing regiOn― that distinction goes to thc areas aroun(l Lcndavato the SOuth― eaSt and GonlJa Radgona to thC West― butitisjust aS IOVCly

1080),less than 2km

′

I'oplicc, is noted for its

ο),and yOu Can ViSit WOrk― "rS″ shOps at hOuse NOs 51 and 53 on the rnain

pottc,(′ ο″

road. C)thcrwise,′ Ileganovci is not an espc―

cially interesting placei carry on anく

)tller

J。 2e

2.5km to BogOlina(Pop 1530), which

Pleё nik's irnpact on ISlovenian

architecture has been extraOrdinary.

should get an award for bcing thC most attractive and tidiest villagc in PreklnurJe.

′ he nlain attraction hcre is the Parish

church is at the northcrn end of the villagc

past peasant houses bcdecked With flowcrs and storks nesting on chirnneys and tele― phOne polcs to No 147. ・ro the original Ronlanesquc and baroquc structurc,lPleё nik

on a low hill; from the rnain road procced

added t、vo asyrnrnctrical aislcs and a round

I｀

Church of the Ascension,redcSigned by JOを e lPleё

nik betwcen 1926 and 1927.1｀ hc

を1。 wn brits tad鮨 onal

in0 サ1● ●ontra!

di ‐ the or

tabl●

and

used for sieeping,

and storage shed,

barn

feamm Of Prekmuり 0 stenc‖ led

on■ le outsid0

whitowashed walis and vaned

1 a

L‐ shaFЮ d

320 Prekmu」 e― Radenci tower renliniscent of a crow's nest On a ship.

For general informadOn,gO tO reception

The interior is an odd inixture of black nlarblc,brass and wood; thc Oak‐ bearncd celling is fit“ d wim ccramic Plates aldjugs collected frOm the Fu℃ a.

・

Filovcl(pop 522), another 2krn beyond

Marika travel agency(奮 65889)江 me bus station, which is south‐ east 10f the slpa COrnPlex.The latter also does exchangc and is open from 8 anlto 5 prn weekdays and till

lBIogo,ina,is fanned throughout Slovenia for i色

in the Radin hotel(● 65 331)or to the

noon on Saturday.

ご″ ″αんι″ α″j々ι(bl∝ k pOtte7),WhiCh Can

PoinurskaBIankahas abranch atPanOnska

Hungay.Onc ofthe best wOrkshOps b visit

ccs鯰 5‐ 7 01χ n weekdays fron1 7.30 am■ o5 pnl and on lSaturday to ll.3()ain.11le post

is at house No 29,where■ e Boinec family

orice,open froin 7 am to 7 pin weckdays

work the wheels and iretheirpots and pitch‐ ers in an old b ck oven.・ I'he workshOp is about 200m sou■ 1-west ofthe man road p`st

and till noo■ on Saturday, is on the satrnc

the small church and overthe bndge.

Thermal Spa

also bc found in parts ofsouthern andeastern

Ш﹁∝コ冨 ︼Ш〓Ｌ

If you get hungry,thet℃ l are a cOuple of

d∝ent gostilnc in lbbrovnik,3.5km bcyond

street opposite the Vikend restaurant.

Thc health reso■ has three clalms to fane:

water

Filovci.P″ ιィzJis at housc No 273a.L″ ο′ ,

」most opposite at No 277a,has outsidc "ating.BOth ae oメ 'n dll 10 orll pm.

RADENCl

ric Negova rnud fOr sinearing al1 0ver yourself.Allthree play arole in the therapeu_ tic and beauty treatmcnts so popular here.

・ ′ο ′5750。 α″a

.θ cο ′ 69・ ′ οs′● ο 9252 `■ Stic」 y speaking,Radenciis nOt part`′OfPR)―

ch in carbon diOxide for drinking;

thcrind watcr high in ininer」 s for bathing that comes out at41° C a sOurce;and sulphu‐

Spnngs ofrnincral water were discovered in thc carly 19tll century,and thc bo■

ling of

kmule pЮ VinCe bCCause it is not`beyond

Radenska water bcgan in 1869・ By the turTl

the Mura'.In fact,it lies about a lkilornetre

of the centu:y,the water had become so

`on the rivcr's lMura'(POmuje).But nOt tally get 'om nght bank mdlet's is ttus

popular th■ it was sentto me impcrid court in Ⅵ enna and to the popein Rorne.・ I'he spa itSelf opened in 1882.

technical¨ .Radenci has always been c10sely

tied historically and geographically with Prekrnur〕 C,and it is easily accessible frOin

Murska Sobota,13krn to thc cast. Radenciis bestknown forits hedth rcsort, parts of which still leel like a full‐ o← itself

19th century spa town. Indeed, as onc S10Venian Wag putit: `Radenci remains the

preserve of highbrow intcllectuals and nlinble‐ tumble charnber inusic.'But when most Slovenes hear the name they think Of

Ra(bnska TH srca_hc RabnciThrcc Hα ば毯 minerd watr bO‖ cd het matis consumed in evcry restaurant and caf6 in the land.

Orientation&information

・I10day, three n10dern (and ugly)blocks

overlook the Olderヽ ′ ictorian_style buildings

and alaige w00ded park with paths,achapel,

paviliOns and tame rcd squirrels. The coinplcx counts scveral pools,including an indoor itcreatlOnal one,an Outdoorthemal One With a tenlperature of about 34° C and an OutdOOr()lympiC‐ SiZe one.Guests cal use the p001S at Win;Outsiders pay 5∞ to 1000 SIT depcnding on the pool.

There's a small museum in the park dcvoted to the history and development of the Spa and its famous nlinerd water(Open daily frOnl 10 anl tili noon and again,on

Tuesday,from 3to 4 pm).

Radencilies west and nOrth Ofthe Radgona― Kapel wine― gЮ wing area.TO the nonh is a triangle of Austrian tcrritory inhabited

Activities ′ he tennis coullls Just south Of the hotel

rnostly by cthnic SIovenes.′ ThcbOrdcrcross‐

complex can bc rented fOr 90()SIT per hour

ing is at Gornja RadgOna8ad Rよ esburg, 6km nO■ h― west of Radenci.

I｀

(1200 SIT at night).Racquets(300 SIr)and balls a℃ av

lable fromthe sinall kiosk there

Prekmule― Radenci 321 frOFn 8 anltO noon and 2 to 8 prn.Iン essons cost 150()SIT per houn】 For badininton,table tennis and minigolf,go to the large outdoor pool.Mountain bikes are available for rent. 】 Excellent cycling excursions can l)e nlade

into the surrounding wine country; head ″滋 west」 Ong the `WinC rOad'(ツ ι ε α,お r about 4km to Janttcv Vrh and an south― `s′

old vineyard cottagc callcd JanZev iIIram or

even farther south to Kapclski Vrh and lvanJski Vrh.AInlost allthe wines produced here are whites;try the popular local one called Janttevec or tlle Zlata Radgonska Penina sparkling wine.

I)Ml10 to I)M140. Prices at thc thrcc―

Piaces to Eat Radenciis supposcd to have sorne ofthe best

food in Slovenia, but grcat cuisine proved clusive forrnc;pcrhaps you'll bc lucktie.'rhe Parた rcstaurantin the nllddic of the κso■ 's large、 vooded park is a pleasant place for a

mcal in summcr,but the mosquitoes lnay cOnsume you irst.It closes on Monday.The 14た d icstaurant is a big,raucous place at `″ Panonska ccsta 2 and open every day.

he spa puts on its fanlous chanlber inusic conceits in surnlner l・

Places to Stay :ツ α ″″ οο″:S availablc on There arc lots of′ ″

head north― west for about 3kin on the road

″ ακ′ ο らaw to Austria to Cο s′ ″

Panonska ccsta to thc west and south ofthe spa's rnain cntrance,including sorne at housc こ o23.「 I'lle pricc should bc about I)M25 per persOn/1he И″″グrestttrant(● 65996)at lヽ

Panonska cesta 2 has roorns available for 1600 SIT pcr pcrson.

65331;fax 66

in Smtovciat

housc No 8 0rtO Gο s″ J″ αAグαれJび in Mele at housc No 27a.11ley'rc bothく )pen till about 10 pm.

Ge

ng There&Away

〕 BIus scrvices arefrcOucntto Manbor,Murska Sobota and Go輌 a Radgonr Other destina― dOns include Celje(six a day),Koper(two), Lendava(up to 10),Ljubuana(up to cight),

Liutomer(s

ca(one),Ormoを or two)and Rogaζ ka

),Nova Go

594),with a total of more than 5(Ю beds,征 e

(tw。 ),Piran(one

nluch of a nluchness and certainly no

Slatina(OnC).

bargain.Singles at the cheapest of thc thrcc ―the 7セ ″ α′り range frorn I):M65 to I)M80, depending On`―the season, with doubles

巧utomer‐ GornJa Radgona line that pぉ ses

Passenger trains do not operate on thc through Radencilit is used for f“ )ight only.

■ コ ロ ス 〓 Ｃ コ ﹂ｍ

For something a little morc colourful,

Special Events

The three spa hotcls(●

star

are generally `:j″ about 20%and 501%higher respectively.

ifFrα ′and four― star Rα

Alternative Piace Nalmles ABBREV:AT10NS (C)CЮ atian

(H)Hung″ lan

(CZ)CaCh

(I)I● Ian

(E)English

(S)SIoVCne

(G)Gennan

Ad

江ic

Sea(E)― Jadran,Ja“ a“ ko Mo■ e(S)

AqШ lcia(I)-0」 c」

Lendava(S)― Lcndva(H) LJublana(S)― Libach(G)

(S)

BdRだ kersburg(G)―

Rdgona(S)

Magy″ orsz亀

Bcla Kr■ ina(S)― Whitc M″ ch c) Blciburg(G)― Pliberk(S) BudapCSt(H)― Budimpeζ ●(S)

(H)―

Hunga7(E),Mだ 乏arska(S)

Mediterranean Sea(E)― Sredoamlje,

S"doamsko Mo■ e(S) Monf:」 cOne(I)―

.rrttiO(S)

Montene『 o(E)― Cma Gora(S)

MЩasЮ mbat(H)

CiVidale(I)― Ced`週 (S)

Murska Sobota(S)一

DolcnJska(S)一 Lowcr Carnlola(E)

NOtm刊 ska(S)― Inner C″ niola(E)

Eisenkappel(G)一 Zelczna Kapla(S)

Osterreich(G)― Ausda(E),Avs

Go“ njska(S)― upper carnida c)

Piran(S)― Pran。

Gonaa(D― Gonca(S) Gr2(G)― Grad∝ (S) GulfofTheste c)― T2ぶ H

(I)

POrtOrO乏 (S)― POl“。rOSC(I)

Praguo(E)― ■aga(S),Praha(Cz) Zaliv(S),

PrChnulc(S)― `Beyond thc Mura'c) morska(S)― Littor」

Golお di Tncste(D Hn′ atska(C)―

ja(S)

P

Croatia(E),Hrvttka(S)

R」 elo(C)―

Rcka(S),Fiumc c)

Romo(E)― Rim(S),Roma c) Istia(E)一 Istra(S) ItaLa(1)― Italy(E),It」 ja(S) IZ。 la(S)― ISOla C)

Serbia(■ )― Sttija(S) SOCa(S)― ISOnzo(I) Sta」 erska(S)―

Karnbttg(G)― KrnsM Grd(S) Klagenfun(G)― Celov∝ (S) Koband(S)― CapOret。 (I)

Styna(E),Steie:Tnak(G)

TaViSi。 (D― Trbl乏 (S) TneStC(1)― TrSt(S)

Ko"r(S)― Cap(xlisma(I) KOЮ ζ ka(S)― Cannthia(E),Kな nten(G) 聰 ‐ (S)一 Kast(E) Kranuska(S)― C"mola(E),Kraln(G)

VieniCe(B)一 Benetke(S),｀LneZia(I)

Leibnitz(G)― Lipnica(S)

Vienna(E)― Duna」 (S),Wlen(G) VI‖ ach(G)― Be」 よ (S)

Udine(I)一 Videin(S)

322

Language Guide ご′ ″α,is a South Slavic lan‐ slovene rs′ ον ぶ

guage closely`″related to

《roatian and serbi`■ l and wntten in the Roman alphabet. [〕

i l

お 血e`y'in`yeS' 霞 `w'ifatぬ e end ofa synable Orbef。 嶋 a vowel;elsewhere as the`1'in`lie'

Linguists have cOunted nO feWer tha1 50

:l

dialects and sub_dialccts in htuc slovcnla though the`purest'forin of the languagc is sdd tO be spOken in nOrth― west DolenJSka.

r

SIovene is a grarmatically complex lan‐

guage with six Cases for nouns and

aS the ll'in`milliOn' お 山e`m'in`OmOn'

ni

a shghtly trmed spanish or scottish`r'

as the`sh'in`she' こ ここ as the`sh'and`ch'in`fresh chips'

v as`w'r■

me end ofa sy■ able or befoE a vowell elsewhere as the`v'ln`via'

atteCtiVeS,three genderS and bur Verb tenses. In addition to Singu12r and plural, Slovcne also has a separate `dual'lor■ l to

2

″jzα , `one indicate `two' Of something: table',れ たι,`dlree or more tables',butれ たJ,

Don't bc fazed by vowel― less words hke rFg,

`two tables'. There are many irregularities in verb con―

jugations and noun declensions but

as the`s'in`pleasurc'

`square',or ν″,`gTden'(WhCh aκ prO‐ nounced something like`terg'and`vert'),Or ″ by consonant CluStCrS SuCh aSた ケ こ `key' (W Ch iS prOnOunCed`HyOOCh').

adj∝ ivesprecede thenounasinEnglish md there arc no articles:`a table'or`the table'is .

T“ s10vc m alphめ cth盤 25

1cttcrs― t“

`q',`w',`x'and`y'Of the English alphabet are not used butit conレ uns the letters`ё

and`を

Vowe:s The ivc basic vowelsin Slovene arc `a',`e',`i',`o',`u',but each can havc several

just`table',れ たα

',`も '

,in both upper and lower case.(′ rhe

diffcrcnt pronunciations, dcpcnding on whether it's strcssed, unstressed, long or sho■ .'The letter`e',for exarriple,can sound

ke the`a'

`gate',the`e'in`there'or the

roOf',in S10Vene.)

`e' in `bet'. Slovenian dictionarieS Often mak■ ese differences with accents(6,e,ё

Pronunciation

but they ncvcr appcar elsewhcrc in thc w tten language.Don't worry though,as

litue m.rk On top is called asr“ ′ぶjι α,or`little

l′

ikc English,Slovene is not a`one lettcr‐

one

you shouldn't have too lnuch trouble being

valuc'language.・ I'he pronunciation of sornc

understood even if your pronunciation is

vowels and consonantS(eg `V' Or `l')Can

slightly ofi

change ftorn WOrd to word even though the satnc letter is used in the spclling.Sll・ ess― where the emphasis f」 ls on a wOrd― is」 so

iregular and,as in English,hasto be lettned

for individud words.The following should be seen only as an approxiHlate guide to Slovene pronuncia」 on. 10)onsonants Most Slovene consonants tre pronounced nlorc or less as tlley are in English.Thc fonowing ac thc inaln exccp― tions:

as ic`ts'in`htts' as the`ch'in`church'

),

・ he following is a very rough guide to the pronunciation of Slovenian vowels. I｀

a e

as in`far'or as the`u'in`cut' as in`bet'

i

as in`hit'or as thc`ec'in`fect'

o,

as in`hot'or as in`go'

u

as the`00'in`sOOn'but shOiner

Fbr nlore words and phrases in Slovene,scc the Food and E)rinks sections in thc Facts lor

the visitOr chaptcr or tlle Glossary that follows this Language Guide.Fora molに in― depth 100k at■ e language get holdofLonely ′ ι,71α ″ια″E“ Opι ′λ aS`♭00た Planet'Si`fι グ′ “ “ .

323

324 1_′

anguage(]uide

u“ iu[l″ 10rd3

a ph口

Helb. コ.

"3 じ7`α ● (p01te) DOら ´ ″夕″″ ;′

Smlall Talk

ヽ/hat is your naine?

(1:fOm」 ) ″a wi″ ″ C∝,d nloi nng. DOら ″′ `. Q,od day′ Dあ θ′あ“=″ ,. anenl。 。n. GoOd eVenin3・ Dο 炭 ″ '7″ “ Good 餌 レ "ο Pl‐ se. P″ “ s“ 鷹 ` na■ vou ″,`′α ,. o,。 db".

(Ve,mWh)

YOu'E Wel∞ me・ Y。 ￨.

No.

My narne ls¨

Jα

2Ma

,`,7,`i′ ′ ...

.

`″ S`""′ ″3:“″ ■

Are you inarned? Do you like...?

A■

I don't like...

May I? It's di nght.

No problem. IIow do you say¨ in Slovene?

Maybe.

iイ ο gο

I'm sorry.

02″ S′``. Jた 。

whtd∝ s

IIow are you?

施あ

Getting Around

Fine,thanks.

Kαb sJ2`′ rinお 前ld) `"lit) Dο ♭瀾 ο クル z ,あ ッ

“ '0“ ″ ″オ"′ …′ "餃 あ ″こ f″ 4"″ θ″ ″ ¨ `″ “たた Sia″ ■ “ ,:′ `"“ A″ 1● 4あ ? J′ ッ″′ D昭 ′励` ″滋 κ●た,“ ″″ … κ ,、,`"`々 ,' ′ A■ ,″ ′ “ 。

Jutt a minute.

`

￨●

I'm a bulist/smdent.

I like it very inuch.

P"`"″```四 Vi Z″

′ し οッ ′ ′ "`' ■`,● κiatο ″") ′ ′ ′ ="θ brlomal) 〈 ``￨´(p。

.

.

.

mis mean?

'S晨 κり ″ ″

(brgiVe me) S′

l wantto go to..

R″ ′

I wantto book a

&′ 夕 ″ “

sett for.…

(。

ntm m叩 ).

I undcrstand. I don't undcrstand. I don't speak...

Do you speak English' I)oes anyone speak English? VVherc arc you flHD■ o?

I'm from… IIow old are you? I'm… … years old. I have a visa′ Pern■ it.

P歿 ,sJ″ ,zα ′ぶir′ Pπ ,S,″ ′ο晟2矛 た

・ “ こ．

Essentials Plcasc wnte i dOwn. Plcase show inc

r″ α7ηα l′ 〃 沢αz“ ″ `″ Ⅳ′″ az“ ,. `″ “ Ⅳ′gο ッο ″:“ .… gο ッ A′ ′ ο′″′ α″g々 』;ο 7 A′ J々′ οgο ッ ο″ ′ α″g′ ′ぶ λο′ 0′ たοどsた ′ S`″ た .¨ κο′ ′ たοsた s″ ″′ ′ 〃α″ ...ル ム ′ ″,a″ ッ々″

「htt dmc does the ヽ … depa″ anive? VVhere does the.…

あツ ο榛″ι .

train boat′ ferryノ

hydrofoil

planc

date/plκ e

′′′ 教 ′ ″￨`“

ofbhh

nationdity

male/femde passport

滋 И々蔵ザ昴 ″Srν α グ′“ツ クα″S″ ο ″,ο`α ぶ た ル を″sた α ′ο″,J JJsr Z′

… ″,認 ′

Obた αた′′ ″′ι

ο αあ “ だみ ″ `の ●′′′ 酔…

0グ

α 4%` "0ら ック =ル =

を″″″り ″ g■‐ α`ル

′ ι a`ワ `″

How long does the tmp take? The traln is delayedノ carly. The train is on tirne.

勧 滋οあ ′ gο ′ 可α α″ ′′ ′0′ ον ′ Иαたj″ ′ Zα ″ι 盪 イ′ 。a″ 」 αた′″力(η α “ αツ οdα s″ ο ρあ .

1/′

.

■lo甘 n s can∝ 1led. Do l need tO change? Ylou inust change

廿ams/pl■ brm. surnarne given narne

:ッ

″″ガ′ “…

leavc■ om? bus/train

.

"a:′

luggage oficcnocker

力れ,α ル S`ο ″」 Л ″ `.′ A′ J″ ο ´ α″′″S′S″ P″ s`s′」 ″ο´ α″

ν Jα .“ ♭

left‐

gaaセ .費,多 a

onc― way ticket

ι″OSP,2′ ′″α

platfornl

ο″ ′ι″

νOZOツ π:Oα

￨′

.

`″ “

11′

(buS/tran)StatiOn

jε ρονra"α ッ0`0ッ″ α r"“ s“ リ ノ %′ ′ 動 , 6α ツ

everywhere

I'd like to hre a.…

:α ソ ′ι… Rα グ♭」′

Where is the/a.… ?

bank city centre

ｃ ｄ ｉ

car

embassy

.

ｃ ｓ ｒ

ο たοJο/,2,ο rη οたο′ `ο αν′ 0 ッο′idα たο′ りα

cntrancc/cxlt

exchange Ofice hospit」

maket police

post ofice

Directions IIow do l getto.… ?

W“ re

is.¨ ?

fa? Is it ncな ノ ヽア hat street/road is ths?

Wh■ town/what village is this?

lα

Around￢own

ticket onFice tinletablc

bicycle/nlotorcyclc

′力 ″2夕 OttOグ “

`z“

Sraヴ α ′ο

ツOZOツ ″κα ga′ ″α b′ α ッοz″ 」″′

ticket

here/theκ ノ

口ｍ ＦンＺＯこ＞Ｏｍ ＯＣ一

return tickct

anguage Guide 325

jグ ι ″ グο… καたορ″ ιル … 2 κ′ ′ ι A′ ′ ιみ′ z″ 42α ″び ′ たνし ιs″ κ′た″ α″′ ι″′ ブ I〔α ′ ι″ ο″ι srο / ο7 物た″ αツ aS′ ι′

public toilet

restaurant tourist

infonn江 lon

orice I wantto make a

κ,`′ … ′ レ "ガどき ,ぉ ′∫′ ,″ α/ `を ′ α●`o″ `′ =ら `Fa`α ッ カ¨ 施 :`“ `レ :″ 飾 あ`"ソ “ `之 0′"`` κV` ′ ′。ぶ α `α ′ α ′ 動'″ `″ コ "81`ι ク '′ 1`ァ 鮨′ ´ 'ツ "i ο溜 ``"を IC, ″″′ “ `「 l"“

j`″ Jイ bガ ′ αム Rα グι

telephone call.

(Go)sttaght ttead.

α′ マ Zしり 7ο S′ (P″ ″′ れ

I'd likc to changc

sOrne nloncy/ 廿avellcrs chequcs

`り ″″均 ・

(Turn)lCfυ right江 the.… trafic hght ncxt/secondノ th■ d corner

ο / J′ ツ (Z2ツ J′ `,4α ′ ο.¨ `s″ ′′ ″プ♭ヴ “ “ 'Sια S′ ′ ′ブ ′ ″ノ J″ ρ″ ″ ど″g′ ″ノ′ ″′ι “:れ た 0ツ “

up/down

滋ヴ Zgο ´ りん′ο

behin(1/opposite east/wcst

lα sip“ ο zα ″

church

`' ソ ι シ々αみ ″ zみ ο

hospital isiand

:ク

鍛

ν ″g

ｃ ｅ ｇ ｌ ｄ一■

S′

abbey bcach ｂ

nonh/south

￨″

cathedral

Rα グbjぇ α

″ `た

aブ

′ ′αJ “ グ ι ″αイ″ 1′

′οわνα臓

1″

``′

の αr" α ′′ ″tOs′ `α grα ′ ″jσ α srο ′ οι″ たιν ιο′ れjぶ″Jε α ο′ οた

`′

Usefui Signs

CAMP!NG

κAMPК ■MP′ NG

EX!T

ИHOD ′ ZHOD

FULiゴ OCCUPIED

POLA′ OttИ SEDEN0

TOILETS

INFORMAT!ON

′ ′ vFORMInc′ Jn

LADIES′ GIENTSI TRAIN STATiON‐

POLiCE

c′un Pοι′

YOUTH

GROUND ENTRANCE

ADMiSSiON

GUESTHOuSE

OPEN/CLOSED

ySTOPINI′NA

GOST′5064PENZ′ 0′ V

ODPR￢012質 RR￢0

POL:CE STAT10N PROH:BITED

PULL

PUSH R00MS‐ バVAILABLEI

ハ POι ′ C′ySκ 4 POS,亀 ′ ρREPOMED嬌 ′ V0 ′L“ 0′

326 Language Guide lake

Food

0

′

`Z`´

maln square

a"Fr慇

g′

manor

I'm hung,ノ th[sty.

グッ。￨`ε ′ εα だ″ι s″ 0″ ′s″ “ αdα ′α′

markct old city

pdace ruins

'ο

′ ′ 8

tower

″ Z″ ′

lunch dinner

た οs′ ′ ο

set inenu grocely stOre/ delicatcssen

″ S`ツ ′ =″ ″“ ′ ′

sea square

`

maket

s″ ′ ′

Iぶ dι

.

′ ″

a youth hostcl

a。

“

a canlping ground

the nlanagerノ owner

i″ ″

"Zあ " a″“ 晟,Ⅲ νを ,1`レ

What's the address' Nα 姦2′′″″ ″α Sあ ツ Jと ' “ Do you havc a... A′ ′J″ α た ...′ 〕 ηS″ 7 availablc?

bed

cheap room SinglC/dOuble

′οS″ ケο ρOC`れ I

sο らο

pο Sた ケ ЮOm ι ″ο pο S` ″ο グツ ο ′ οSο bο ク″

for one night/

two nights

How much isit pcr nighυper person? Is breakfast

includcd' Is service included'

′ ″ο″ο′ ど ′′ “′ “ κο′ :たo∫ α た ,η ,′‐ οsa"′ A″"oし 1 」 `4′ `′ ツ″ `"′ A′ i′ ′,り “ ″蒻喀

It'S Ve,d

ツ た ク″勉7 “′ 1`,ッ ピ:″ :sο ら0′ ``2カ′,″ ぶ″? ´′ζレ :″“ ′z″ :″

I'm/V7ie're leaving

力 ″ ν2″ lF. "■ ″ “″′ Dα″ α ″

'′

Can l see thc rooln? Wherc is the toilet?

ゾ noisyノ expensive.

now.

`′

“ の鴨a οaレ =プ

clean sheet hot water

? A′ :;"α ″ … ′

″ `″

′に'S'“ 2

I'd like sorne...

Anothet please. The bill,PLase.

S``′ 2■″ α4′ りS:P,2. “● Rα d″ ″,′ OS'冽 ・

.

I don't eat...

Nι ル ″ .¨“

bccf becr bread

′;ツ 0

butter

cheese chicken cofiFee

eggs

ish food fnlit

8ο ¨ 1,1`た

"ぉ

あ

o ′:“ たo““"θ ′α ′ `'a ′ 1,a たた,α ,α ‐ ″

fruitjuice

,`:`●`:,ο 々

mcat

″:``0

nlilk

″

minerd watcr

`あ注ゴ′ α●

"`認

`ッ た α

Rα ′ `,諄

pepper pork

6o′

soup

′″′ コαa々

vegetables

wine

key shower

りだ a`ζ

hoプ cold

to、 vcl

ら,`,′

witlプ withOut

.

Orad‐ n,me) ′。 ″θ′ ,`ィ ル

salt

tea

ち

A″ ル ″ ″ α ″れ」

ツ た α ケ ″ ' 力g`惚“ 月 π S`“ α り “ Rα ′a″ ′ “ λα た。

I'in a vegetarian.

′ ο′ ο 7“ み `お ′ Opあ ッ αあ

`′

a`′ ′ た α″ ′ sa

Lα みた ο′lο b:″

lunch,please. Is scrvice included

sugar

Do you have(→

Sa″ ο b`ノ Pο s`″ を

I'd like the set

in tlle bin?

8α

ツιd′ ′ ′α ″￨′ ″ι

勧‰磁

a hotel

a guesthouse

κれ

`″

restaurant waiteノwaltress

Accomrnodatlon I'in looking for.。

Lα ″″α ″

breakfast

`

'7

ζ″ a` “ ツ:"0 “ pι 二 4′α 」ι″ `ο ら″z 〃

.

Language Guide 327

Shopping How much isit? I'd like to buy it.

It's too expcnsive おr me.

Can 1look ttit?

あ′οg滋 A″ あ力′

I'mjustloo

Sa″ 2ο

ng. I'm looking for...

Do you take■ avel‐ les cheques? E)o you have anothcr colour/size?

chemist clothing

souvenlrs biノ biggσ

sm」 ysmdler moreness Cheap/Cl“ OaFXDr

■me&Dates

When' today tonight

tomorrow the day aftcr

tomorrow

g′

3び

lα

… `″ ″ικ A′ J ν zα ″ た ′οrο ッα′ `d′ `7 ″α´ ′ ヮgο AJ′ ′ `″ た,sr7 bα ′ νο ′

o ′ `14″ ,● F″ σ ′

F

day

・● た ″F "″ ψ "″“ “ ο “"″ F ′ “"И "″

れω ″ ι″ ″

sP`aα

January

t“ α r ′α′

sο

ン タ′ar ノ ″■ク´“

Apnl

αPr″`ε ″,aソ ′ ″リ “ ″′ ブ J

May

Junc July

August September October

November I)ecenlber

2 3

4 5

9

グι″′ ″ ′

12 13 14

`″ aゾ Sr ′ ″ ′ッ α isr り “″Sr rri降 醐′ ;れ ″S′

15

′ ηの

11

80

ル`′S"″'S′Sr s′ ′ a7∫ ′ `P,,″ οS`″ ″″S′ S` ″″ "″ わ ″S`′ αレグツ S`r `″ ツ グ α ′ツ a′ `り S`r ″'″ ′ `″ Jrι`“ 前 a`s′ r ′ ′ `二 `s`′ ι s″′ s`′ ぶ ′ ,2`J`s`′ s′ ′ οs`″,′ ￨`sι ′

90

d`ッ

16 17

20 21

22 30 40 50

70

`″

グッ′ ″ ′ ぶ 'ri ′ ′ι ぶ `s′ s`′ ′ ″

8

ω

g“sr αν ′ s`P″ ″わι οルοあ′′ ποッ ,2,`′ P,わ ′′c′`′′

″jご

1

19

`″

Sunday

Mach

OftWO)

18

″ `た `″ た ′

Febnla・ y

`″

10

(″ lα

)

ο′r″ ″α油″ (■ :thr∝ qua■ aS

1.45

7

″ ′′ ′ ′ ぶ″ ′ο り′ `れ “

ι ″αグッ

Of絆 。) ′ο′グν `カ (L:hdf OftW。

1.30

6

κ凛が ' s グα″ι `力

`d`r

(lt:One quaner

O

Wiνソ`:

らοム α d`ケ α ″′

Saturday

d`r″

NumberS

SP`'"1晨

′ι″ ′ο″ι ″″た `た

NViednesday ・11lursday

zッ

l.15

"`′

Monday lesday

in tlle evening

.

″,. `ね

`′

ツ dθ ″ `ヴ ,sα た ″ ν′ ヽ s`Й 2″ ノ

Iヽ

″′ υれ ル ¨ “ インr“″

″2

ycsterday dl day/every day ′

&Jわ ル

It's...o'clock in the morning

Whattime s it? κο′ 北οsra″ `2 Rα ′ら,た Pユ Pκ ′ragο“′′Zα

`′

100

srο

101

s′

`1グ `s`r

0′ ″α

′′ w′ ″sο び

110 1000

sゎ

。ne nllniOn

″

j′

"れ

328 Language Cuide Heaith I'■ l

diabcticノ

cpilepdc/ asthinatic.

I'm allergic o penicillin/ antibiotics.

darhoca S`″,ど 」 αら ′ ν

″ ″ψ ″″ αs″ηα′ た。

condoms contraceptive

nausca sunblock c壼 〕 を ビn

gjdι ″s′ ′ A′ ι ′ ″″α

″ノ ρ′″ c′ ′ α″ri♭ jο ″た′

9蘭`所12しを

“SPl月 ″ α たο″′ο″J b″ ′ ″ οJSた ο `ψ。 s″ as″ `お

tainpons

グ′ おたα ′ ′ ο zグ ″ν s′ α らοs′ た″ α zα ぶ “ ″"α ′sο ″ε ′ “ '′ j “ ′ α′ ′ :′ ο ″

Emergencies

.

antiscpは c

aspinn

nledicine

`′

'あ

′ο″ο′

Hclp!

Mα

Go away!

P″ ″

Call a doctoノthe

'た′ Pο ″だ たそ グ″ αν ″」 んノ

police.

Sr″a″

たυα ′ο′

.′

Glossary GZS― Gdetskl Zavod Sbventic(G酬畿

If you can't indthe word you're looking for here,try the l′ anguagc

D

Guidc,thciFood and

InStitute Of S10Venia)

nks sections in thc Facts for the Visibr

chaptr orぬ e Addrcsscs&Placc Namcs

Ha‖ statt― e`rly■on Age Celtlc culture

section in the Ce■ ing Around chapに ■

(80()‐

hrlb―

AMZS―

Avto― Moto

5∞ BC)

hill

Zveza SIovenijc(Auo― izhod― exit

mobile Association of SIovenia)

avtocesta― moЮ rway,highway

iZV:r― SOurCC(Of a

bife― snack andノor drinks bar b ak_bivouac●郎ic shelterm me mOuntans)

le“ Ю -lake lug― SOuth

breg― nver bank buria― bOra(C。 Adnttic Sea)

kamnolom― quary

ld n。 lth‐ eaSt Wind frOm the

Karst― limestoneregionofundergroundnvers and caves in P inorska

kavarna―

c― abbrcviation for``s″ α ёakainica― walting room cenik― price

cerkev― church cesta― road 。'■ 虚maSIoVenje cr■ s_centrzaPrOm∝ 」 (S10Venian■ 10unSt BOard)

dila`kl dOm― StudCnt dOrinitOry,hOStCl

anti―

dunng WWII

kot:ina― basin k0201eC― hayraCk diStinCt tO S10Venia

La■ne-late■onAgecultuu450to3"BC) ki■ omet(巧 ubliana

dolina― vallcy

Domobranci―

cottlee shop,ca116

knilgarna― b00kShOp knii乏 niCa― lib“ ry koё a-lnountain cottage or hut kot― glaci」 v」 leル C01mer

kras― karst 貯ёma― drink bar(SOmetimeS Withね 。d)

delovni ёas― opening/business hOurs

dom― house;inountain

VCr,Stearn CtC)

LPP― 巧山 uansb Po

co■ age or10dge

City buS netWOrk)

Patisan Home Cuads

moこ kl― men(tOilet)

drevored― avenue

inost―

bndge

filaker― hOrSC‐ draWn Carriage

nabЮ 21e― embmkment gal― gЮ Ve,park

naSeile― CO10ny,dCVe10pment nasip― dikc,ernbankrnent

garderoba-left‐ luggage ollice,cOat check

gora_:nOuntan

gostiina― inn‐ style restaurant goStiOё e― inn‐ sり le ЮStaurant uSu」 ly with

obё ina― administrative divisiOn;cOunty Or

acconlmodation

ObVoZ― deЮ ur(rOad Sign)

cornrnune

gozd― forest,grove

odhod― depalture

grad― castle greben― ridge,crest GRIS― (〕 OrSka】 Regevalna SIuを ba(Mountain

odprto― open okrepёevainica― snack baur Osvobod‖ ne Fronte― 劉lti‐ FascistLibera」 on

Rescuc Service)

F.rontin WiⅡ 329

330(〕 lossary otok― island

S2_Slovenま eLlezni∝ (Slove mRallwttS)

pani3陶 D kOn● n:Ca― bCehiVe panCl painじ d wim slovcnian f01k motiお

terme― Itdian for`spa'(COmmOnly uSed in

PE)― prolTlctni davek(salestaK on goods and

S10Veni→ TiC― Tounst lnfonnation Centrc

TNG_T

SeWiCeS;VAT) pivnica― pub,beer hall pianina― Alpine pお tu“ p:anota― plateau

giavst Nな odni P(vk(Triglav

pod― undet below

Nationd Park) toplar― double― linked hayrack unique to Slovcnia topiice― spa

pOlle―

trg_square

C。 1lapSed liineStOne area under cultivation pot― trall pOtok― stearn prehod― passage

prekop_canal preno● I改 accommod江 lon

ica ul― abbrevialon for“ ′

unca_stred vas―

village

"― pri― at,ne`r,by

vhod―

prihod― arnv」

vi:a― villa

Pzs_Planinska Zveza Slovenile(Alpine Association of Sloven10 reka― r,ver

reStaVr“ lia― reStaurant rini―

push(d000

rob― escarpment,edge

vinoteka― wine b:r vinska cesta― wine road vinska kiet― wine cellar Vieci― pull(dO。 つ V02mi red― timetable V020VniCa― iCket vrh― sununit,PCak vrt― ga・ den,park

Samopostre2na Юdavracla― ∞lf― SeWiCC nestaurant

samostan-lnonastery SeCe3310niSm― a■ and arChiじ Ctur」

ent・ ance

vrtaё a― sinkholc

vzhod― cast VZpeniaCa― Cable Car,gOndOla

Sけle

similarto Alt Nouveau

sedeZnica― chair li貴 30diO一 paSS,Saddle sever― ■o■h SiT― t。 lar(internttiOnd CurrenCy COde) 8:a薔 ●ICalrna― ShOp Selling iCeCreain,SWeetS SObe― rooms avは lable(Sign) 30teSka― raVine,gOrge sprehaia‖ 薔●0_wakway,prOmenade

zahod― west zap費 。_closcd zavet:“ 0_mountain`“ nge'wim refК sh_ ■lents and sonletilnes accolnnlodaldon zdrav‖ 籠●e― he」 th csort,spa お gnanie― apaLOn'S feS● V」 at aChurCh Or

chapel

こenske― woinen(tOile0 こiё nica― cable car

stena_wal,cliff

Znanttnト ー記 giOuS Ю

ste2n― path

zdravstveni dOm_mcdica cen“ e,clinic “

● 騨 ,WaySidC d

ne

index ABBREV:A「riONS Bel― Bda R3ajina Dol― DolenJSka Gor― GorenJSka

lo Kor― KoЮ ζ 巧●―LJublma

Rre― PrekmurJe P

Not― No● anJSka

―P inorska もtajerSka

Sta―

MAPS PomroЙ (Prl)207

[oroSka 306

Bela Krajina 258

I〈

Blcd(Gor)137

KostmJevica na粕

Bohinu(Goo 146

Preb"e314

BOvcc(Pn)165

【よovo&Tmovo cju)98 【anj(Gor)126

Brettce(Dol)253

Km■ ska Gora(Gor)154

Pt門

Celje(Sm)296

Lake Ccrkmca(Not)221 L」 ub」 ana 88‐ 9 Cent」 巧uttana%

Radovl,ca(Goぅ 130 ev Laz(Gor)151 轟 動 bnica(Dol)229 “ Rogぶ ka Slaina(Sぬ )272

Crnomel(Bd)263 DolcnJka 227 Dole■ ske Toplice(Dol)238

(Dol)249

G"江 er巧 ublma 82 Logarska Do■ m coga (St⇒

Valり )

303

Julian Alps&・ r,iglav National

Park(Goつ 159

Maibor(So 285 MetllM(Bcl)259 Murska Sobota(Prc)316

Nor"sh 214 Nova Gonca c■ i)171

Novo Mesb(Dol)242 Kalnmk(Gor)116 Kob`rid(P )167 Koper(P )192

PiFan(P

)203

Podё emek

Pnmoぉ ka 163 (Sta)276

もkocjan Caves(Ri)183

Gorenjska l14 I“ ja(闘 )176 1Z。 la(Pri)199

Post● na(Not)216

Aca(Sm)269

Skola Loka(Gor)120 SIoVenia(CO10ur map)

′ う ッ ′ ●pp 16&17 `″

Provinces of Siovenia 23

Slovenian Railways 76 Sloveni Grad∝ (Kor)307 Stterska 267 Siё na

Abbey(Dol)233

Upper Savinja Valley(Sの 3∞

TEXT 7,74,s″

Maps are in bold typc

cycling 55,72,78

airlines(`

accornnlodado■ 57-9

diving 55 islling 55

■ying 56

66 buying icke饉 、

golf 56 hiking 54 k)rse nding 55

s"cid nccds 66

Tamlenヽ

58

cainping 57 far● ■ 10uscs 58

guesllouses 58

air tave1 66‐

α な0"ing

arpoms 66

toノ ilonn

wi

Slovenia 66 n SIovenia 74

huning 55

ina(Pri)174 Ajdovζ こ

pcnslons 58 pnvatc roons 58

ice skaing(Gor)141 kayaking 55 parag ng 56

Alpine Dalry Mu"un (Gor)147 Ankなan σ■i)196‐ 7 Anttony Mhe Sha■ e )177

student d()n utones 58

rafling 55

skiing 52

apatnents 58 なchit∝ twe 29‐ 30

b」 loomng 56 b■ dwatching 57

stan trans 77,(Gor)141

ans 29-33

boaing 55

swin■ing 54 tenms(G① l“

ballet 64

1lerillal spas 56

beekeeping(G∝ )131 Bcek∝ ping Museum(Gor)131

hostels 58 hotels 59

aciv:des 52-7

canoeing 55 caving 56 clinibing 54

“

151

windsuing 55

331

ball()oning 56

332 1ndex bccr 63

Bcgunjo(Gor)1“ Bela KraJina 257‐ 65,258 Bela Kr● ina Museum eel)258 b■ dwatchng

57 回 輌 a Re¨ n」 P麒 o● 1)264 Bizeljsko(Dol)256 Blacks 山 Museum(Gor)1鉾 Blcd(Goつ 135‐ 44,137 Bled Casde(Gor)138 Bled lsimd(Gor)138 boadng 55

Bled(Gor)14 BohinJ(Go→ 150 Kolpa Rlver(Bel)2(И Kika River(1)ol)236,243,250 Lake Cerklllca(Nbt)222 Piran e )204 Po■ oЮ Z(P )2(り S″ a Bohi■ ka(Gor)133

SNa Do■ tta(G∝ )133 s∝ a mvO(Pn)1“ boat travel,∫ ′ ′boadng and sea tavel

Bogeぶ peよ C^dc(Dol)234

Bogoina(Pre)319 Bohi可 (Goつ 145-53,146

nol((3or)130 S● ■ ёatet(Dol)254

Dolenjska Museum(Dol)21 DolenJske Top

Caぬ olicism,Roman 33

Drava River 310

Black(Not)217 Div“ a c )185 1siand〈 Not)217

Dravogrd(Koぅ 31011 dnnks 62-4

bstttcvica od)250 Kttna(Nd)225 Krka(Dd)236 Pivka(1ヾ ot)217 Pla:lina(Noo 217

1:)mOVζ ek,JanC2

Silent(Pri)184 Skocjan(PTi)183-6 Ъ nC(P )185

ccology 24-5 econolny 27-8 education 29

Ⅵle ca(Pn)185 Kanin Moun

einal,s′

ns(Prl)166

Cc」 c(Sの 293‐ 9,296 Ce」 e Cas■ c(Sta)295 Celje Re」 onal Museum(Sta)

295 291-3

0crkno oi)17%82 0erho Museum e )180

Primく ,rska(P

)174-82

children,travel with 50

churches 36

ci"ma“ ,(巧 u)106 limate ●

Blcd(Gor)138

cmbassi“`online 3940 services entcrain口 lcrit 64 b」 let 64 cinenla 64

discos&clubs 64

Centrd Pohor」 e Region(Sta)

Cerknica(Not)220‐ 4

`′

26

clectrlcity 48

cavlng 5も

Bだ o Casde(Goつ 129

casdcs 36

78 1iccncc&PcΠ mts 39

car rcnt」

PostoJna(Not)215 Ravnc(P )182

Bovec(Prl)163‐ 7,165

caniping 57 canocing 55,∫ ′ ′α′ sο boaing car travcl,∫ dr,ving

driving 71-2,77-8 alcoho1 51

road rulcs 78 to/fromn SIovenia 71-2

Cent」

bus trave1 67-70,74 toたIoin Slovenia 67 within SIovenia 74

23 clinlbing 54

Coasd Re」 on(

)190-212

costs 41

CmgЮ b(Gor)124 Cmomelじ (Bel)2624,2,3

msic“

opcra 64 thcatc 64 environnnent 24‐ 5

farmhouses 58 fauna 25

驚mcs,ャ ′sca travcl fesuvals,sι θspecial events ilm 33 Filovci(Prc)320 ga“ s Museum oel)258

Fi"B

■shng 55 BohinJ(Gor)150 Jasna Lよ e(Gor)156

Bogcttpcrk(Dol)234

Cmomeu Cな tic(Bel)262

Bdo(Goo 129

custolns 40

Ktrka(1)ol)239

Celje(Sta)295 KostanJcvica(Dol)250 Li● lc(Gor)115

cycling 55,72,78 Drava V」 ley(Kor)311

Krka River(Dol)236 Lake Ccrhtica(Not)222 Sava Dolinka(Gor)156

Krka River Valey(Dol)235 bor Poholc(Sぬ )2SЮ

LJubljana(LJu)92

M

L.oka(Gor)121

Mislinjska Valley(Kor)309

M

br(Sぬ )2●

Met■ ka(Bcl)258

Mokncc(Dol)255 ёmomelj(Bd)262 0toC∝ くDol)246 Podё ettek(Sta)268 Pα iseda(S● )270 Predじ

ana(Not)219-20

Ptuj(Sta)276 RibnЮ a Casde(Dol)228

0t∝ ∝ ooI)246 Podtettek(Sta)268 Potters'Road(Pre)319 dance 31,(1`ju)107 depamre tax 73 disあ ld tavcne、 49 山scos&clubs l% diving 55

Pomoroを e

Sncを mk(Not)224-5

)η 8 DobЮvo(Pn)173

So

DoicnJska 226-56,227

,ta Casdc(Pre)315

9,

Drattё i(Bcl)261

Beautiful(Not)215

books 44‐ 6,∫ ′ ′al,O literature

B"激 ce(Dol)2525,253

∝ (Dol)237‐

238

KolF mvcr oel)260,264

Soё a Rl“ r(Pn)1“ Suζ ica

River(Dol)238

■ora 25 ■ying 56 Blα l(Goo 141 Koroζ la(Koつ 309 Maribor(Sta)287 Novo MIぃ to(Dol)2ZИ Ponoro乏 (P■ )209 food 59-62 nlcnu itcrns 60-2

●stawants 60 Franja Pansan HOspita (P■ )181

Index 333 tavc1 38

gay travellers 49

Ll'bl,m■ m‐

geography 22-3

1nternet,s′ ′onlinc scrvices

geology 22‐ 3 golf 56

lt」

ian Ch"nel House,Kob`rid (Pri)169 1zola(Pn)197-2(Ю ,199

Bled(Gor)140 (:)orcnJska l13-61,114

Gonζka Brda(P )173 Go珂 i Grad(Sta)301 GosIЮ diё na(Dol)247 goverilment 25-7 guesthouses 58

CyC」 n3112

c,mュ n,■ 11068

Jakac,Bo強idar 240,243,250

Jac,Mlran 240,263 J¨ na Lakc(Gor)160 Jezersko(Gor)128 Julian Alps l13,158-61,159

H2田 .田り.%

`ot,,t“ 腱 o鰺Lq,,85 " C● ■ ●,92%

l“ b,●

1(6

30■ n3讚 ol■■ 11012 "yι

と ,wtt l"_lo

hi,"nl "un3 oH。 ● よ o"&■ m"o978,"

BohinJ(Goつ 150 Bovec(Pri)165

Kamnik(Gor)113-18,116 Kalnniζ h Bisdca(Gor)119 Kaま Region(Pn)182-90

mュ ta m“ 87,1 ●出o,■ 崚 でnc“ 86 “ "kn,y84 n暉 血 aに,%・ 7 01d■ Owo,1‐ 2

Qntd bble Region(Sta)2"

kayaking 55,s`′ α ι ∫ οboaung

o口

Cerknica(Not)223

I[oband(P )167‐ 70,167 Koba d Museum(Pri)168 1【 olpa River 260,264 Kolpa R er Valey(Bel)2645 KoOevsに Rog(Dd)240 Koper c)ri)190-6,192 Kopcr Rcgional Muscum(Prl) 193 Koroζ ka 305-12,306 Koroζ ka RegionallM:uscum

o,1●

Jurこ iO,Josip

health 48-9 hiking 54

CerkIЮ Hins(Pn)182 lJ(Bel)263 Crnol■ ●

Dolenuske Toplice(Dlol)238 Kalnnik Alぃ (Gor)119 Kolpa Rlver Valley(Bol)265 KranJska Gora(Go→ 156

M

bor PohorJe(Sta)"0

Medika(Bel)2ω Mislinjska Valey(Kor)3(り Podこ etrに k(Sta)268

(1く

236

or)308

Ribnica(Dol)229

KostanJevica Caste(Dol)250

ROgaζ ka Siaina(St→ 273

Kostanjcvica na Krki

Skく)la

Loka(()or)122

ool)28-51,249

history 13-22 hitching 78 holidays,s´

`public holidays and special evcnts

horse ndng 55

Blcd(Gor)140 Clental Poho■ e Region

(Sta)292

Kolpa Riva Valley(Bel)265 Kraniska Gora(Goつ Lipica(Pri)186-8

Ma

156

bor bhor]o(Sta)290

rka lRiver 235

Krka River V」 ley(Dol)235-7 KЮ pa(Goつ 134-5 Kuё an,Milan 21,26

maklng(Pri)178 Regiond Park(Bd)2(4 Lake B回 (Gor)139 lacc―

Lake Bohinu(Goう

146

Lttte Ccrk

Postojna(N∝ )218 SIovcnJ Grad∝ (Kor)309

language 34 addresscs&place naines 79

hostels 58 hotels 59

Hr¨ Юvije(Pn)188-90 hunting 55

e(P

)179

ca(Not)222-3,221

eV。 ■ じ

=rd」 “ T'Cは ∝ ,p。

=0口

Log赫

Dol,1(So 3∝ .3● Lよ oC8● (G∝)121 L去,M"`“ 加 (C")121

M"ibor(Sta)283-9,285 activites 287

bookshops 284 entenaninent 288 geting around 289 gctting therc&a,way 289 hisЮ ry 283

money 284 orlentadon 284 places to eat 288

plκ esto s● y287

Post&comnlunlca● ons 284

courses 57 giossary 329-30

spolid events 287

guide‐

tourist office 284

323-8

travcl agencics 284

Maribor Castle(Sta)284

1aundry 48 1esbian"avellers 49 Lipica(P )186‐ 8 1′

"l“

■●。IP● ■9,“ mun“ oぽ に 83 tα “ 血“ 」" 薇 も LⅢ bljコ `餘 oC,092 “

」telmative place names 322

Maibor Poholc(Sta)289-91

Manbor Rcgiond Mus∞ m

ipizzaner(Pri)186

1iterature 31‐ 3,s`′

health 49

'●o,P■ 1“

maga21neS 467 maps 35

1く

Olirnje(Stの 268

1drija l¨

ュi102‐ 6 口 、お ● `∝ 口 ,o“ ,y lα )2 "たと ¨mm‐ ¨ ,燎 議 mα ●3m `ho,IS

Krka Cave(Dol)236

Novo Meso(Dol)2ZИ

)174-9,176

81‐ 3

L]'bm(Stt)3鯰

Lahin」 a

ice skaung((:)or)141

■11● o■

P'まiコ g lll

KozJansko Re」 on(Stの 266-71 KialJ,Francc 250 KialJ,Ibnc 250 Kra刊 (Goつ 124‐ 9,1,% KranJska Gora(G∝ )153‐ 8,154

Moこ nje(Gor)133 Murska Sobota(I■ e)315

1dnia(P

li“ ,α ,1“ s“

Llt■ c Cas■

αι sο books

o(Gor)115

(Sta)284

Maritimc Muscum e MartJanci(Pre)317

)201

334 1ndex

M

MI江 kov Kot(Sta)302 mcdical● cttnent S′ ′hedth nlcnu itcrns 60-2 me∝ uヮ (Prl)174,177‐ 6

br Region」 Museum )201

M¨eum

Municip」

(■ i)1767

Metlika(Bel)257-61,259 Metlika Casde(Bd)258 Mith」 c sh nes(Sta)279 ■由mism(Sm)279

Mu"um J Modem Art

Mokncc Castle(Dd)255

Museum ofModern HistoW

nloney 40-3

´ 」 TMs42

Ptuj Iじ gion」

Museum

(S● )276 S」 1け orks

Museum〈 Prl)212 SIovenian Ethnographic

refunds 43 taxcs 43

Mu"um cju)98

tpping 43 travc■ ers cheques 42

SoHiё lMuseum(Koつ 308 muslc 301

cl"sica1 31,64,(巧 u)107

Moravske'Iloplice(:Pre)318‐ 9 11lotorcycle tave1 71-2,77‐ 8 rOad rules 78

jazz(LJu)108

MO」 te(St→

opera 64,(LJu)107

blk 31,(И

3(Ю

メ)pul"31 Юck o功 u)108

Muuava(II)ol)235

Mu cip」 Museum(P )176-7 Muska Sobta(Lo 313-7, 316 Murska So

)ta Regional

Museum(Pro)315 Museum ofMα iem Art cju)97 MuseuFn Of Modern History (巧 u)97

Museuin of R∝ )ent Histo:y (Sta)297 rnuseurns 36

Muta cor)311

N“ ond G」 bry cju)96 Naion」 Museum(巧 u)96 natond p=ks&reserves 25 Kα Rog(Dol)240 `evsはReglond Pirk LdinJa (Bel)264 Logarska I)o na(Sta)302 Thglav Nadond Pな k

Alpine Daty Museum (Gor)147

B∝keeping Mu"um (Gor)131 Bela KraJinalMuseum (Bel)258 Blacksnuth Museum (Gor)134

(Goつ 15861

VAld Lake(Pn)178 N認 可 e(S● )301 newspapers 46‐ 7 IotranJska 213-25,214 1ヽ

Nova Gonca c■ i)17()3,171 Nova Sifta(Dol)230 Novo Mesto(Dol)24∈ 5,242

Cclje Regiond Mu"um (Sta)295

eva(S● 1)302

Pottub Hat“ ●(Gor)14

Posavje lMuseum(Dol)253

currency 40 depadure tax 73 exchange 41

Podolζ

(LJu)97

N“ ond G」 leり cju)96 N ond Museum(LJu)96

costs 41 credlt cams 42

Pod“ mek(Sta)266‐ 70,269 Podё ettek Casic(Sta)268 Podsreda(Sm)270‐ 1 Podsreda Casdc(Sta)270

(Sm)2"

cash 42

PI∝ nik,お お (LJu)93

(Lju)97

Museum ofR(∝ ent History

bargaining 43

Rran(P■ )201-6,203 Pictcdc Mon“ tew(Dol)251-2

Mwska So )● Regiond Museum(Pre)315

MiheliC,F'rance 121

Rde,コ κ 21 pbography 47

(Sta)284

Marltimc Museum(P

Poldcs 25-7 Population 28 Po■ oro鯰 (P )206-12,207

Posa e Museum(Dol)253 Posavje Region(1)ol)252-6 post 43 Postojna(「 ヽ lot)213‐ 19,216

PreqanaCasde(Nbt)219-20 Preknlu:je(Pre)313-20,314 Pregeren,Francc 32,127

hmrska(Pn)162-212,163 pnva“ :● ons 58 Ro“ standsm 33 Ruj(St→ 27牛 81,276 RIuj Casde(St→ 276

RIuj Re3onal Mluseum(Sm)276 Rujska Gora(S● )282 pubbc holidays 51‐ 2,

∫ ′ ′αlsο

sPα

'ial evcnも

Ra“ nci e")3m‐

1

radio 47 Radlni■ e(S● )301

Radovljica(Gor)1■ )4,130 rattng o5,s´ ′a′ sο

Rよov

baing

Sk∝ jan(Not)223

RateCe(Gor)156 religlon 33-4

restawants 60 Rbё cv L露 (Gor)146-7,15卜 3, 151 Ribnica(Dol)226‐ 30,229

Ribnica Ctttle(Dd)228 Rogttka Slaina(Sぬ )271-4,272 Rogat∝ (Sta)273 Rogla(Sta)292

Rosanice(Bd)261 01m」 o(So

268

Cerkno Museum(P■ )180 DolcnJskalMusemm(Dol)241

online sewices 46,(巧 u)85

o"m“ ,(LJu)107

sailing,sι ′boadng

Fire Bngades Museuln

0toO(κ (Dol)245‐ 7

Saltworks Museum(Pn)212

0toCec Castle(Dol)246

Sava River i30,156 Savica Watcrfall(Gor)148 Sa nja Rver"9

(Bel)258

Kob″ id Museum e )168 Kopcr Rcgiond Museum

painting 29‐

30

(Pri)193 Korogka Regional Museurn (1〈 [or)308

paragliding 56

Loka Muscum(Gor)121

pensions 58

Bohin」

(Gor)151

Bov∝ (Pn)166

Sad

kヽ Josip Nikol1 115

sculpturc 29‐

30

sca trave1 72,s´

′α′ sο boadng

to/ionl Slovcnia 72

SemO(Bel)263

Index 335 もempeter(S● )299

htemadon』 Trade Far (Sta)287 1sman Night e■ )2〔 り

senior travellers 49

S∝ ovlje(Pri)212 shopping 65,(LJu)108

J2Z RSiV」

business hours 51 skiing 52 Cien『 al Poho■ e Region

(Prl)179

Lau缶 」a(h)180 155

Krvav∝ (Goo 130 M br Pohorjc(Sta)290 Rog― Crinoこ nJicc(IDol)239

Stari Vrh(Gor)123

Mogel(Gor)150 Zarnik(Gor)141 Sk∝ ian(P )1● もk∝ian Caves(Pn)183-6.18 SkofJa Loka(Gor)119-24,120 thnographic

Museum(LJu)98 SIoven」

Lnt Festiv」 (Stの 287 Mな incrs'Baptism(P )2"

Naiond Costume Days

(Goう 117 0karina World Music Fesival (Goつ 141

PhoЮ Andquc Falr(LJu)100 Plran Musical Evenings

(Pn)204

P(xl Homalovo Lipo(Gor)123 Ponoro2 Night(Pn)209 Pnrnorska Sununer F'esdval

Grだ ∝ (Koつ 306-10,

307

Sma」 oこ ke Ъplice od)247-8 Sma■ etna Gora(Gor)128

(Pri)204 Puppct Theatrc Festiv」

(Sta)287

Rkh's Days(Gor)141

Smmla Gora(LJu)112 Smaino(Pri)173

Rogttka MusК al Summer

Sncttnlk Ctttle(Not)224-5 So )ta Castic(Prc)315

Shepherds'Ball(Gor)128

SoHiё

Muscum(Kor)308

Solё ava(Sta)302

(Sta)273 Slovcnian Choir Colmpedion (Sta)287 S10Venり Gradec Sununer

Fcsdval(Kor)3(D

SoCa River 162 Soё a Valley((:〕 (P

or)160,

Summer Castle Pe」 omlances

)162-74

Soca village(Goつ 160 spぉ ,s“ therm」 spas spccial evenも 51-2 Cerknica Canival

(Not)223

Cows'Ball(Gor)151 Do:■ louse Night(Not)225

Dn:ga Godba(Liu)1(Ю Dry G∞ ds&Pottcry Far (Dol)229 Festival of Early Music

(Dol)254 Glasbeni September (Sta)280

(Dol)237 Theate Festival(S■ t)287

Ⅵ no Ljubjma cju)1∞ Ⅵ nska Ⅵ gcd od)260 ソ )● 64-5,(巧 u)108 StaJcrska(Sta)266-301,267 Stara FuZina 147,151-3 Statcnberg(Sta)282 steanl tans 77,(Gor)141,

(Gor)151 Stlё na(1)ol)231-4 Stiё

na Abbey Ool)232-3,233

Stmol Casdc(Gor)130 Stru■ an(Pn)200 student dornlltories 58

1nternational Biennial of Graphic Ans(L」 u)1(Ю

student"avellers 50

Intcrnational Jazz Festival

swirriming 54

(Sta)287 1nternational Rowing Regatta

(Gor)141 1nternational Summer Festival (闘 u)99

Studor((:〕

or)148

Bled(Gor)140

)204

broroこ e )208 Radovljica(Gor)133

Gu)1∞

Kanin(Pri)164 Kopc(Koつ 309

SIovenian iE〕

M″ ibor(Sta)287 Piran(P■

Kud Suimmer Fcsuv」 KI囁 entova刊 e(S● )280 Lace― Ma ng Fesuv」

olte(Sta)301

KranJska Gora(Goつ

Krattska Gora(Gor)156 Lake Cerknica(Not)222

(1」 u)1∞

JurJevmje(Bcl)263 Kalnnik Evenings(Goo l17

(Sta)292

Cerkno(Pri)182 (〕

Kra■ (Goo 128

■

m″ MШ ●y(Go 156

0,岬ho¨

襲 ヽ おnη “ 面 血 (Cor)1“

D[“ (Gx)lЮ

Boi n,(G")1∞ Ⅸ,1● n¨ L Ъpl∝ cヽ 1)38 【 輌 (Oor)128 Cなi,,,(Ek,1)246 Ro3● ■●Sl」 籠 (S■ )2% ■t嵐 ¨io● 〉319

ぬ “ "“り 56 山α “n戯 A●コよ o■ “ 前

∝ (Sぬ)%8

Ct“ を■■1,滲 (Dol)2,4

ヽ い ,鵡 し い i)"7 Fo● ■ ■,■ ヨ1“ Mdbo= “ (S●)2, Lttko(S餞 )%η Mo凛 山 ■,i● ● (PE)318‐ 1'

k"""'(P )メ RII● ● ' d ec)3,D R,“ 腱

腱

(駐 ■ )2,1

`馴 opl‐ (‐ 1)247 Sm荀 oL■

■ PⅢ (Sm)2" ■∝ ““ mo Z∝。(S愴 )χ2 d",o47 ■mよ お L3腱 ■0.=0,,pB,0219" “

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mininヽ a701.7,7,76 1oL“ &鮨 ∞」鮨 70 〔 iom Sloveoit,Ol “■ Slo● ●,,75‐ 7 ● ,『 。 ● “ セ`‖ av● lP,Ч ,コ ● ■oo,35 “ ■● ■(G∝ )1(Ю ● JⅣ “ N■uo■,P"k(Go) 158る 1.“ゆ ■よ,Gσ ●cわ 1)247 1,ub● ■P,inx,226 ,′

Upper SaVinJa Valley(Sta)

299-304,300

Bohi町 (Gor)150

Ceje(Sta)297

Kolpa River(Bel)260,

(Bel)264

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336 1ndex 恥 like Bms ceCヽ 1)27

o47 Ⅵ caく Bd)264

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vid●

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Vo町 iP勧 Ok(Gor)117 “ Mrba(Gor)1“ Vr“ P●s(Gor)lω

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ldlifし ,s′

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Bi嘲 面 ・S耐 い 1)獅 C)“ 畿

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JOmab■ ttlltmo(Sm)282

Kopo(P )1∞ Medika(Bel)261 R“Lnci e")321 Sma」腱欧e Tlp ol α】,1)247 ■應ka Com(D01)247 Ⅵμ vaV狙 り e )174 Wo=:1●

n tt漱 31lers 49

work 57

老」le C」 u)112 2,lmd(Gor)156 2tЙ )mLrk o01)236

Notcs 337

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。size1230 x 160 mm ハva′ ′ aue nowi Chlle&Easter lsland・

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LONEEY PLANET PRODUCTS Lonely F)lanet is knovvn wOrldwide for publishing practical, rellable and no‐ nonsense traVel lnfOrmat10n ln Our guides and On Our web site.The Lonely Planet iist covers iust abOut every des, des, sわ Oθ sI″ η 99υ ′ 9υ ′ η,9υ θ atlases,JOυ mθ ys― a υ aθ ks,lra“ ′ y9υ rasθ b00ks,aυ d′ O ρ ,des,ρ わ υ ′ des,0″ θ rig θ υ′ des. rfraver″ ″ ■ οο〃 eclο ηο 9 and PFsces θ00κ s‐ d,vlng and snOrkθ ″

accessible part of the world.Currently there are nine seriesi trave′ wak′ ng

:′

EUROPE Amsterdam o Austria・

BaltiC StateS phraSeb00k・

phrasebook o Estonla,La

Ber‖ n・ Brltaln°

cs・

EurOpe phraseb00k o czech&Slovak Repub‖

Cana:γ

Denmark・ Dub‖

n・

lSlandS・

Central Europe on a shoestring o Central

Eastern Europe on a shoeSting o Eastern Europe

ia&Lithuania・ Flnland・ France o French phrasebook・

Germany・ German phmsebooko Greece ltaly・

Llsbon e

Paris・ Poland・ Ponugal・

Polugal

an phrasebook・

・ Greek phraseb00k・ Hungary・ lceland,Greenland&the FarOe lslands o lreland e lta‖ London o Medlteranean Europe on a shoeStrlng o Mediterranean Europe phrasebook・ travel atlas・

Prague・ Romania&Moldova o Russla,Ukralne&BelaruS・

Russlan phrasebook o Scandinavian&Baltic

EurOpe On a shOestring o Scandinavian Europe phrasebook o Slovenla o Spain o Spanish phrasebook o St Petersburg・ swltze‖ and.Trekking in spain.ukralnian phraseb00k●

。Western

EurOpe On a shOest「

vienna owalking in Brltaln oWalking in italy oWalking ln SWit2erland

ing o Westem Europe phraseb00k

Traver lle“ :υ ″fThe O‖ ve G「 ove:Travels ln GЮ ece

NORTH AMERICA Alaska・ Backpacking in Alaska・ Bala Ca‖

・ Hawa‖・ Honolutu・

lo「

nla o Calilor‐

Deep South・

nla&Nevada o canada o Chicago・

Flo“ da

Los Angeles o Mexlco o Mexlco City

・ Mlaml・ New England o New Orleans・ New York Civ・ New York,NewJersey&Pennsylvanla C Paclfic NonhweSt

USA・ Rocky MOuntain States e San Francisco・

SOuth・

west USA・ USA phraseboOk o Washington,DC&the Capital Reglon T“ave′

ιl● ratu“ :Drlve thru AmeHca

CENTRAL AMERiCA&THE ・Bahamas and Turks & Calcos・ 8ermuda・ Central America on a shOeString o COSta Rlca o Cuba oEastern Caribbean・Guatemala,Be‖ ze&Yucat`n:La Ruta Maya

・ Jamalca

AFRiCA

SOuTH AMER:CA A「

gentina,Uruguay&Paraguay・

ian phrasebook・

Alrica‐ the South o Afrlca on a shoestring o Arabic(Moroc‐ BO‖ Vla・ BraZil° Bra211‐

Buenos AIЮ s・ Ch‖ e&Easter island・

Ch‖ e&Eager island traVel atlaS・

the Galdpagos isiands・ phraseboOk・

CO10mbia Ecuador&

Latin Amerlcan Spanlsh

Peru・ Quechua phrasebook o Rio de

Janeiro・ South Amerlca on a Shoes‖

ng・ Trekking in the

Patagonian Andes・ Venezuela Trave′

L′

lSLANDS OF THE!ND!AN OCEAN &Seyche‖ es

Maldiveso Maur

East Africa ・ Egypt ・ Egypt travel allas・ Ethiopian (Amharlc)phrasebook・

Kenya・ Kenya travel atlas・

Malawi,MOzambique&Zambia・

Morocco o Nonh Africa

o South Afrlca, LesOthO& Swaz‖

and O South Africa,

Lesotho&Swaz‖

Swah‖ i phrasebook・

and travel atlas・

Tunlsla・ Trekklng in East Afrlca oWestAfrica・

temfuri Fu‖ Circle:A South American Joumey

Madagascar&Comoros・

can)phraseb00k o cairO o cape bwn e Central Af「 ca・

Zimbabwe,

Botswana&Namibia・ Zimbabwe,BOtSWana&Namibla travel atlas

us,Rё union

TravJ Ljゎ

fυ

に,The Ralnbird:A Central African

“ to an Aincan Sunseti AZimbabwean Story JOumeyo Songs

MA:L ORDER Lonely F'lanet products are dlstributed、 Planet,SO lf yOu have dl‖

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NORTH‐ EAST AS:A

lNDIAN SuBCONTINENT

Beljlng o Cantonese phrasebook o China o Hong Kong・

Bangladesh o Benga‖ phrasebook o Delhl・

Hong Kong,Macau&Guangzhou・

Hindl/Urdu phrasebook・

Japan o Japanese

phrasebook o Japanese audio pack o Korea

・ Korean

phrasebook o Mandann phrasebook o Mongo‖

a・

Mongo‐

atlas。

indla。

lndlan Hlmalaya・

Goa。

lndia&Bangladesh iravel

Karakoram Hlghway o Nepal。

Nepa‖ phrasebookoPaklstano RalasthaneSrlLankaoSrl

lian phrasebook・ Nonh‐ East Asla on a shoestrlng o Seoul

Lanka phrasebook・ Trekklng in the lndian Hlmalaya・

o Talwan・ Tlbet・

Trekking in the Karakoram&Hlndukush・ Trekklng ln the

Tlbet phrasebook o bkyo

Nepal Himalaya

■ rave′ ι ′ rafure:Lost Japan “

五 rave′

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′ θraf“ ″:in

Ralasthan o Shopping for Buddhas

SOUTH‐ EAST ASiA ヤ

=

Ball&Lombok・ Bangkok o Burmese phrasebook o Cam― Ho Chl Mlnh City・

¨ ｍ ｉ ¨

bodia・

lndonesia。 lndoneslan

phraseboOk o lndOnesian audiO pack o Jakana o Java・ Laos・ Lao phrasebook ・ Laos travel atlas o Malay

phrasebook o Malaysla,Shgapore&Brunelo Myanmar Phi‖ pplneS O P‖

(Burma)・ South―

lplnO phraSeb00k° SlngapOre°

East Asla on a shoestrlng e South‐ East Asia

phrasebook o Tha‖ and・ Tha‖ and's lslands&Beaches・

ヽ

Tha‖ and travel a‖ as・ o Thal H‖

喘

Thalphrasebook・ Thalaudlo pack

I Trlbes phrasebook o Vletnam o Vietnamese

phrasebook o Vletnan,travel atlas

AUSTRAL!A&THE PACiFIC Austra‖ a・ Austra‖ tra‖

MIDDLE EAST&CENTRAL AS!A

Palestinlan brrltorles・ travel atlas。

lstanbul・

an phrasebook・ Bushwalklng ln Aus‐

Bushwalklng in Papua New Guinea o FIII・

Flian

phrasebook。 lslands of Austra‖ a's Great Bamer Reef・ Melbourne o Mlc「 onesla o New Caledonla o New South

Ⅷ′ ales o New Zealand・ Nonhern

Arab Gulf States o Arablc(Egyptlan)phrasebook o Central Asia o Cent「 al Asla phrasebook

a・

・ lran 。lsrael

& the

lsrael&the Palestlnlan brr1lo「

les

Jerusalem o Jordan&Syrla・

Austra‖ a・

Terrltoり

°Ouiback

Papua New G口 lnea o Papua New Gulnea

phrasebook・ Queensland・ Rarotonga&the Cooklslands

・ Samoa,Solomon lslands t South Australia o Sydney・

Jordan,Syrla&Lebanon travel atlas o Lebanon o Mlddle

Lhlil&French Polynesla o Tasmania・ bnga・ Tramplng

East・ Turkey・ Turklsh phrasebook o Turkey travel allas・

in New Zealand,Vanuatu・ Vlctoria o Westem Austra‖ a

Yemen

■ave′

Tra"′ ι ′ ferat″ el The Gates of Damascus・ Klngdom of the F‖

“

L′ rerati′

re:lslandsin the CloudS O Sean&Davld's

Long Drlve

n,Stars:Journey into Jordan

ANTARCTICA

ALSO,AVA:LABLE: Briel Encounters・ Travel with Chlldren・

Trave‖ er's Tales

Antarctlca

THE LONEEY PLANET STORY Lonely Planet published its flrst book in 1973 in response to the numerous`}low did you do n''questions Maureen and

lng and餡 ‖ ing their way from England O Australia

bny Wheeler were asked ater drMng,busshg,hitchhg,sa‖

Written at a kitchen table and hand co‖ ated,trimmed and stapled,ス

0´

Oss Asa On ttθ

ε力eaρ became an instantlocal

bestse‖ er,lnspirlng thoughts of another book.

詢‐ [astス aOnasわ Oest″ ng,which they putto9eher

Elghteen monthsin South‐ EastAsia resuhedin theirsecond guide,SOυ in a backstreet Chlnese hote‖ n Singapore in 1975.The`ye‖

s′

ow bible',as n quckly became known to backpackeβ around

he wO‖ d,sOOn became hθ guide tO me regiOn.lt has sold we‖ retaining its fami‖ ar ye‖ ow cover

over half a ml‖ ion coples and is now ln ns tth edmon,sti‖

nguage kお &ph膊 ∞ Юに,tavel atla∞ s and t● vel

loday thec are over 350 1itbs,includlng travel guldes,walkng guldes,ほ llね

rauЮ The cOmpany is the hЮ estindeper`em tnvel publisher n the woHd.Alhough Lonely Planet initally年

guides O Asia,today here aЮ

The emphasis cOntinues tO be On t● velforindependenttrave‖

)ecialSed n

α)vered

few comes onhe globe ha have notbeen

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year and play an actlve pan in the wrning,updating and qualは y control of Lonely Planet's guides. They have been loined by over 80 authors and 200 star at our offices in Melbourne(Austra‖

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υ協 加 ,lヵ e“ a″ so maリ ″加 wesmd″ οp′ e ουf″ 詢訥e rg‖ a腋● a“ travelゎ υ "ρ "‖ st劇 ￨力 ″la""y"● pe ttese"。 ■s″″"alj“ malepeοP′em`“ e hte“ ο ■謳enfp劇 疇pectFves ab。 t施 ●″u,s● “ “ 「 “ id,peopに ■″"ヵ G“ ′ わ o滅 s ca′ ,l rea″ g″“ ru can“ おρOin,3籠 m加 詢●″g力 ,di″ oJo■.' ―■ ony Wheeler “ `助 。

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