Silver jewelry making & paracord bracelets for beginners : a complete & step by step guide 9781630223939, 163022393X

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Silver Jewelry Making & Paracord Bracelets For Beginners A Complete & Step by Step Guide (Special 2 In 1 Exclusive Edition)

Table of Contents Introduction ................................................................................................................................................................ 4 Part 1: Silver Jewelry Making ............................................................................................................................. 6

Chapter 1 – Tools You’ll Need for Making Silver Jewelry ....................................................................... 6 Tool 1 – Pliers........................................................................................................................................................ 6 Tool 2 – Jewelers Saw ........................................................................................................................................ 7

Tool 3 – Files .......................................................................................................................................................... 8 Tool 4 – Ball Peen Hammer ............................................................................................................................. 9 Tool 5 – Soldering Torch .................................................................................................................................. 9

Tool 6 – Charcoal Block.................................................................................................................................. 10 Tool 7 – Dish And Borax Cone ..................................................................................................................... 10 Tool 8 – Binding Wire ..................................................................................................................................... 10 Tool 9 – Titanium Soldering Stick ............................................................................................................. 11 Tool 10 – Insulated Tweezers ..................................................................................................................... 11 Tool 11 – Vice ..................................................................................................................................................... 11 Tool 12 – Safety Goggles ................................................................................................................................ 12

Chapter 2 – Materials Needed For Making Silver Jewelry ................................................................... 13 Material #1 - Wire ............................................................................................................................................ 13 Material #2 - Sheet Silver .............................................................................................................................. 18 Material #3 – Jewelry Clasps ....................................................................................................................... 19 Material #4 – Jewelry Findings................................................................................................................... 24

Chapter 3 – Techniques You Need To Master When Making Silver Jewelry ............................... 28 Technique 1 – Preparing Dead Soft Wire ............................................................................................... 28 Technique 2 – Annealing Silver .................................................................................................................. 28 Technique 3 – Melting Silver ....................................................................................................................... 30 Technique 4 – Soldering Silver ................................................................................................................... 33 Technique 5 – Casting Silver ........................................................................................................................ 36 Technique 6– Creating Gemstone Settings From Tubing................................................................ 39

Technique 7 – How To Bend Tubing ........................................................................................................ 40 Technique 8 – How To Hammer Silver ................................................................................................... 41

Chapter 4 – Some Projects To Try Out ......................................................................................................... 43 Project 1 – Sterling Silver Hand Forged Hoop Earrings................................................................... 45 Project 2 – Simple Drop Earrings ............................................................................................................. 47 Project 3 – Sterling Silver Ring .................................................................................................................. 49 Project 4 - Diamond Drop Necklace.......................................................................................................... 51 Project 5 – Wild Orchid Evening Necklace ............................................................................................ 53 Project 6- Sterling Silver & Gem Flower Necklace ............................................................................. 55

Chapter 5 – An Accessory With Multiple Purposes ................................................................................ 60 Chapter 6 - What is a Paracord Bracelet and what is Required to Make One? ........................... 62 Chapter 7 - Getting Started with Paracord Bracelets: Knotting and Weaving Methods ......... 65 Chapter 8 - The Three Methods to Splice the Paracord ........................................................................ 68 Eye Splicing or Long Bury Splicing ........................................................................................................... 69 Burn Splicing Paracord .................................................................................................................................. 69 Razor Splicing..................................................................................................................................................... 70 Spliced Paracord Uses .................................................................................................................................... 71

Chapter 9- How to Make Two Color Paracord Bracelets...................................................................... 72 Chapter 10- How to Use Paracords to Make Fobs ................................................................................... 75 Chapter 11- How to Use Paracords to Make Neck Lanyards .............................................................. 78 Chapter 12- How to Use Paracords to make Necklaces ........................................................................ 81 Conclusion ................................................................................................................................................................ 84

Introduction There are several types of jewelry. The popular ones are made from precious metals such as gold and silver are called fine jewelry. The cheaper and more popular ones are made from copper of other materials such as leather, rubber, semi-precious metals and paracords are called costume jewelry. Early pieces of jewelry were purely utilitarian; that means they were not exactly created to be worn as a fashion accessory. The early civilizations used jewelry to mark their station in society. Some used nose rings to mark their slaves.

Nowadays, jewelries have gone a long way from being used merely to show your station in society. Jewelries nowadays could be used as an accessory, and in some cases, as an aid for survival and safety, such as in the case of paracord bracelets. Not all jewelries can serve survival purposes though, but most can be used as an accessory.

If you have an eye for fashion, you should try jewelry making. Making your own jewelry not only helps improve your creativity; it also increases your confidence, knowing that you are capable of creating something and that you could wear jewelry that is totally unique.

This 2-in-1 exclusive edition on silver jewelry making and paracord bracelets covers the three purposes of jewelry: adornment, heirloom, and survival and safety.

The first part of the ebook focuses on silver jewelry making. This book will discuss the basics of making your own silver jewelry. The tools needed for silver jewelry making are discussed on the first chapter. The next chapter discusses the materials needed. Tips are also given on how to procure materials such as silver, the price of which fluctuates. When buying online or in local stores, good bargaining and comparison skills could be handy. It is

also a good idea to find a good supplier early on; finding a good source for the materials is important because some silver might be adulterated with other metals. There would be detailed information on various jewelry making techniques. The book also comes with several projects that you could try completing. The second part of the book discusses paracord bracelet making. A paracord is a bunch of nylon woven together. Paracords were first used in parachute suspension lines in World War II, hence the name. Most hikers and outdoorsman prefer using paracord bracelets for safety and survival purposes. Hikers use neon colored paracord bracelets so they can be spotted in the dark. Campers use them because an inch or paracord bracelet unravels into a foot of usable paracord.

Due to the paracord’s lightness and strength, it can be used in a number of applications. If done correctly, a paracord bracelet can also be a great fashion accessory. Because it is an interwoven strand of nylon, the inner strands can be used as thread for sewing. You can even use them as a shoe lace.

This part of the book will discuss everything you’ll need to make your first paracord bracelet, including splicing methods, and knotting and weaving methods. Sample projects will also be discussed. Information on basic materials will also be given. Don’t worry because you generally need only three: paracords, buckles, and a lighter. As in any jewelry making undertaking, what is important is to have fun.

Thank you very much for downloading this book. I hope that you learn and enjoy reading this book.

Part 1: Silver Jewelry Making Chapter 1 – Tools You’ll Need for Making Silver Jewelry As you’ll soon discover there are certain specialist tools needed for making jewelry from silver you wouldn’t need for making other items of jewelry. Not only do we take a look at these but also the other general tools required for making not only silver jewelry but general items of jewelry as well.

Tool 1 – Pliers

There are several different types of pliers needed to make silver jewelry. Flat Nose or Chain Nose Pliers

These are pliers you need for holding pieces with as well as for bending and forming the silver into a variety of different shapes and styles. Round Nose Pliers

Without these pliers you will find it very difficult to create curves or circles. Plus like the flat nose pliers these can be used for bending wire. Half Round Pliers

These pliers also help you to bend silver, but do so without them causing an outside curve to be created. Serrated Edge Pliers

These pliers wouldn’t normally be used when for actually making the piece of jewelry but used more for pulling wire through the jewelry or to straighten it out. But you need to be careful when using these as they can leave marks on the silver.

Tool 2 – Jewelers Saw

It’s important you purchase the best quality saw you can. You’ll notice that the blades come with blades of varying sizes. However initially I’d recommend you start with a saw

that’s fitted with a 1, 0 or 0/1 grade blade. You should only consider using saws with blades of grade 2 and upwards when you’ve been making silver jewelry for a while.

Tool 3 – Files

Just as with pliers there are several different types of files you’ll need to help ensure you create and make some wonderful pieces of jewelry. The kinds of files you’ll need to purchase are as follows: Needle File

There are several different types of needle files you’ll need to purchase. The main ones you will have to buy are for when you make a piece of jewelry that’s flat, half round, oval and triangular. Large Flat File

Without this type of file in your toolbox you’re going to find removing solder from your pieces of silver jewelry difficult. Large Half Round File

You’ll find this file extremely useful when you need to clean and smooth the inside of any silver ring shank.

Tool 4 – Ball Peen Hammer

This is an essential tool to have as it can be used for making jewelry in a variety of different ways. Without this tapping (peening) silver pins, narrow joints or rivets into shape will be difficult.

Tool 5 – Soldering Torch

When you’re selecting a soldering torch, make sure you go for a one that can be easily adjusted so it can produce either a wide or narrow flame. However it’s worth considering purchasing two soldering torches, as there is certain jewelry making tasks such as reticulation, which needs two torches to complete it. If you’re going to purchase two torches then you should go for one that’s hand held and the other that remains in a fixed position so the heat of the flame will also be directed towards the soldering block.

Tool 6 – Charcoal Block

You’ll need this for putting your pieces of jewelry on when carrying out any soldering work. By placing the piece of jewelry on this block you ensure any excess flame is actually being directed away from the surface of your work area.

Tool 7 – Dish And Borax Cone

When it comes to soldering pieces of silver together it’s important you use a flux. The most cost effective and easiest way to produce flux is through rubbing a borax cone in some water in a dish that’s been specifically designed for this purpose.

Tool 8 – Binding Wire

If you need to solder two or more pieces of silver jewelry together then you’ll find this wire proves extremely useful. It enables you to free up both hands to carry out the work, as it holds the two pieces together whilst you’re soldering. It’s also great for casting.

Tool 9 – Titanium Soldering Stick

There are plenty of books and guides about making silver jewelry but most fail to include this tool in their list. You need this tool to help position the item you’re going to be soldering or annealing. As titanium has a much higher heating point compared to silver you’ll need to have one of these sticks as it’ll help to ensure not only is soldering trouble free but will also help to ensure the finished solder is smooth.

Tool 10 – Insulated Tweezers

You’ll find this tool extremely useful when you’re using the soldering stick above as it’ll allow you to hold pieces of silver together as you solder them.

Tool 11 – Vice

This is another essential tool you’ll need. A small one you can easily attach to your workbench or surface will suffice. Not only does it help to make the task of bending silver

much easier but you can also use it for other purposes as well as holding the piece of jewelry in place whilst you’re filing.

Tool 12 – Safety Goggles

You may not consider these to be an essential tool for making silver jewelry, but they’ll help to keep you safe by protecting your eyes. They’ll help to ensure your safety when you’re soldering, cutting or filing the silver down.

Chapter 2 – Materials Needed For Making Silver Jewelry Before you start to make your jewelry you need buy various materials. What you don’t want to happen is you get halfway through a project only to find you haven’t got what’s needed to complete it. So here’s what you need buy:

Material #1 - Wire

Wire used for making jewelry with comes in four different hardness groups. There’s dead soft, half hard, full hard and spring hard. Each one of these can be used in a variety of different ways. Of course it’s important to know a little more about the different levels of hardness as it’ll help you to decide which one is best suited to the piece of jewelry you want to make. Dead Soft

As this wire comes in a relaxed state at the molecular level you’ll find it’s very easy to bend, shape and hammer. However you need to be careful because if you work this wire too much it does gradually start to harden and can eventually break. You’ll also find this type of wire has problems holding its shape especially when placed under any kind of stress such as being attached to a clasp or hinge.

Half Hard Wire

This wire has been worked a little before you’ve bought it and as result the wire grain becomes a little tighter on the molecular level. You’ll not only find this wire a lot harder to bend but also to hammer, however, it’s still possible to shape it, you just need to use a little more force than you would when using dead soft wire. Although it’s still malleable the great thing about this type of wire is it holds its shape better even when placed under some stress. This is the perfect wire to use when you need not only strength but also a much thinner gauge wire to create your jewelry pieces with. Full Hard Wire

This has been tempered (or hardened) and as a result is very difficult to bend, yet once you have been able to bend it into a certain shape it’ll hold without any issues. I would recommend using this type of wire if you intend to make your own hinges or clasps. Spring Hard Wire

This type of wire has been completely hardened and will have lost almost all of its malleability. If you were to try and bend this wire using just your hands you will find it’ll immediately spring back into its original shape. However this type of wire is perfectly suitable for making jump rings, head pins and ear wires with. One of the main things you should remember when it comes to using any of these wires is that their hardness is changeable. For example when it comes to dead soft wire the more you work or stress it the much harder it will become. Should you work it too much, eventually it’ll end up breaking. Whereas when it comes to full hard or spring hard wire, if you were to heat it up either by soldering or annealing then it will start to soften. If you heat it up too much then the risk is it won’t revert back. Different Types Of Wire Type 1 – Sterling Silver

This is relatively inexpensive to buy and is certainly less expensive than buying Gold. You also need choose one that contains 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. If you plan on using sterling silver then be aware it will become tarnished because of the copper in it. Type 2 – Fine Silver

This is much more expensive than sterling silver and would only recommend you buy this when you’ve had more experience. As this type of wire is made up of 99.9% silver it

won’t tarnish over time, as sterling silver wire will. However as it can be fused to itself, when wanting to attach one piece to another you won’t need to use a torch or solder. Type 3 – Argentium Silver Wire

This is a new form of sterling silver wire. It contains a lot less copper as it contains more of the new material Argentium in it. Due to it containing a lot less copper you’ll find it won’t tarnish as much as normal sterling silver. However it does cost more than sterling silver wire. Again I would only recommend you use this type of wire when you have a little more experience. Wire Gauge

You’ll also need to consider what size gauge of wire you should be using. Wire comes in a variety of different sizes and some are more suitable for making certain pieces of jewelry than others. The size of wire you should be using when it comes to certain silver jewelry projects is as follows: To make earrings – 20g (0.8mm) or 22g (0.6mm)

To make clasps and hooks – 18g (1.0mm) to 20g (0.8mm) To make earring wires – 20g (0.8mm) or 22g (0.6mm)

To make single loops for bracelets or necklaces – 18g (1.0mm) to 20g (0.8mm)

To make wrapped loops in bracelets or necklaces – 20g (0.8mm) to 24g (0.5mm) To make spirals – 17g (1.2mm) to 20g (0.8mm)

To make jump rings – 18g (1.0mm) to 20g (0.8mm)

Of course you can use different gauge wire if you want but this is meant to be a rough guide of what I use and find effective when making silver jewelry. Different Shaped Wire Shape 1 – Round

This is the shape that’s most often used when it comes to making jewelry. It provides a much more uniformed and smooth finish to a piece. Shape 2 – Square

This should be used when making wire wrapped jewelry pieces. The reason being is this wire has edges that enable it to grip the surface of a stone or other piece around which it’s being wrapped. Shape 3 – Half Round

Again like the square wire you’ll find this one’s suitable for making wire wrapped jewelry. Part of its surface is flat allowing it to grip the surface of another item better. But the round half helps to create a more even finish.

Material #2 - Sheet Silver

Sheet silver gives you a lot more opportunities to create some truly amazing pieces of jewelry. Once cut, it can then be soldered, hammered or bent into a variety of different shapes and can make a variety of different pieces of jewelry. Not only can it be used for making actual pieces of jewelry but for making other pieces such as jewelry findings. However there are certain things you should consider before you buy.

The first thing I’d suggest is to keep an eye on the precious metal market to see how much silver is going for on a daily basis. This way you can determine when the best time to actually place an order for some would be. Not only does the price per ounce of silver go up, it also goes down. So make sure you look at the price per ounce before you buy as it may be worth waiting until the price is at its lowest. Another thing I’d suggest you do is only place a small order for sheet silver initially to ensure you get the right gauge. Be aware that once you’ve purchase it the seller won’t allow you to return it. Most places tend to sell it in sheets measuring 6 inches wide. However there are a few places that’ll allow you to purchase custom cut sheets as well. You’re probably better off buying some copper sheets first so that you can judge the gauge that you’ll need and give yourself some practice at using it. Remember if you over work the silver too much it can become hard easily and break.

If you’re intending to source your sheet silver online then make sure you do so from a jewelry supply store that’s been established for a number of years. Also look for stores

professional jewelers prefer to use. Be aware that some stores may require you to provide evidence you’re running a legitimate business before they’ll supply you with your order.

Material #3 – Jewelry Clasps

When it comes to making silver jewelry it’s vital you finish off each piece correctly. That’s why it’s worth investing money in good jewelry clasps as not only do they become an integral part of any design but they also help to ensure you create a professional looking piece of jewelry as they hide any ends that would otherwise be unsightly.

You’ll find there are many different types of clasps to choose from. Some are quite elegant whilst others can be quite whimsical, but all will add a very professional finish to the piece of jewelry you’ve designed and created. So what sorts of jewelry clasps should you be using? Type 1 – Adjustable Clasp

This particular clasp is made up of a hook and eye and usually comes with a small amount of chain attached to it. You should be using this type of clasp on a necklace, as it will allow the person to vary the length at which it’s worn. Type 2 – Bar and Ring Toggle Clasp

This particular clasp is made up of two pieces. One piece of the clasp forms a loop and into this you thread the “T” shaped bar. The reason I’ve chosen to use this type of clasp is because it’s so easy to use. I normally use this type when making bracelets, anklets or lariat necklaces. Type 3 – Bead Clasp

This type of clasp, as the name suggests, looks like a bead and uses either a magnet, bayonet or tab type closure to help keep the piece of jewelry in place when being worn. The thing I love about this particular kind of clasp is once closed it actually blends into the rest of the jewelry so it makes the piece look more pleasing on the eye. Type 4 – Box/Tab Insert Clasp

Unlike other clasps this one is made up of a tab that inserts into either a decorative box or frame. If you can afford to spend a little extra then try to buy the kind of box clasp that actually comes with a safety latch or chain, which prevents the tab from coming out and the

necklace or bracelet will not fall off. Although most tend to be quite plain in design, you can get more elaborate ones, which have been decorated with enamel, gemstones or inlay work. Type 5 – Filigree Clasp

This form of clasp has an open filigree surface that looks very similar in design to lace. However it’s made from metal rather than fabric and normally comes with a box or fishhook style clasp to allow you to keep both parts of the piece of jewelry together. Type 6 – Fishhook Clasp

These are quite small clasps in size and will come with an interior hook that looks similar in shape to a fishhook, which you then have to insert into an oval shaped box. The hook on this particular clasp helps to prevent the piece of jewelry you make from falling off when being worn should the clasp itself open accidentally as it hooks onto the crossbar inside it. This is ideal for when you are thinking about making lightweight pieces of silver jewelry. Type 7 - Lobster Claw Clasp

This is a self-closing form of clasp and its name comes because of the way it looks. This particular clasp is spring-loaded and you’ll find it’s available in a number of different styles, shapes and sizes. Type 8 – Multi Strand Clasp

If you’re making jewelry that’s made up of 2 or more strands of wire then you should consider using this type of clasp. To help make this type look more elegant you can find some that have gemstones, enamel or inlay work added to them. Type 9 –Barrel/Torpedo Clasp

These are quite low profile clasps with threading and in order to open and close them they need to be twisted. This type of clasp is best suited for necklaces or anklets, as both hands are needed to open and close them. Type 10 – Magnetic Clasp

These are made up of two clasps and in each part there’s a magnet and it’s these that help the clasp to stay together. As well as helping to keep a piece of jewelry secure when being worn, you’ll find taking the piece off is a lot easier because you simply need to very gently pull each side of the clasp apart. Type 11 – Slide Lock Clasp

This clasp is actually made up of a number of tubes with one of them sliding into the other and then locking into place. As this type of clasp is made up of several strands this is perfect for using on a necklace made up of a number of chains or wires. Type 12 – Snap Lock/Fold Over Clasp

Using this type of clasp because of its low profile means it’s less likely to become tangled up in a person’s hair or clothes when it’s being worn. This clasp is hinged and when folded shut, it helps to ensure the piece of jewelry to which it’s attached remains locked securely in place. I use this type of clasp specifically when making bracelets or anklets. Type 13 – Springing Clasp

This particular clasp requires a jump ring or chain tab to be added at the other end of the jewelry. In order to open this clasp you need to pull the trigger. Be aware that as soon as you release the trigger the clasp then automatically closes. Just as with some of the other clasps discussed above, you’ll find this one comes in a number of different shapes and sizes. Type 14 – Swivel Clasp

This type may look similar to the lobster clasp, but the way in which it works is completely different. In order for you to open and close it needs to be twisted 360 degrees. It’s better used for anklets or bracelets.

Material #4 – Jewelry Findings

You’ll find when making any kind of jewelry, not just from silver, these items are very useful indeed. As well as helping to keep items threaded onto the wire they also help to keep other materials in place you’ve incorporated into your pieces of jewelry. These are the most common types of findings you will use when making any kind of jewelry: Type 1 – Crimp Tube and Cover

If you include a crimp tube and cover to your piece of jewelry you help to create a more refined and professional finish to it. I tend to place these on the ends of pieces that I’ve made as they work well as closures. Type 2 – Jump Ring

You should have a good supply of these findings in your jewelry kit, as they are extremely versatile. As well as helping to increase the length of a piece of jewelry; using a jump ring makes adding a charm, pendant or clasp a lot easier as well. Type 3 – Head And Eye Pins

Of all the jewelry findings you need to buy, these are the first ones you should invest in. As well as coming in a variety of different shapes and sizes they come in a variety of different metals. You can also get some quite decorative ones and these can help to make a piece of jewelry look more unique.

Type 4 – Bead Tips

If you’re intending to hang some beads or a pendant onto your jewelry then you’ll need these. Not only do they help to make the task of fixing beads or a pendant to your piece a lot easier but also will help to strengthen the ends as well. Type 5 – Jewelry Links

This type of finding is perfect for when you want to make a necklace a little longer or if you’re going to use more than one chain or piece of wire in the design. Again like many other jewelry findings not only do these come in a wide range of different materials, but also in a wide range of different styles and sizes. Type 6 – Bails

Do not be fooled by the simplicity of this particular finding, as they prove very effective when you wish to add a pendant to your necklace. Plus their simplicity adds a certain

touch of class to the final piece as well. Not only do they help to ensure a more professional finish, they also help to make the piece to which they are attached stand out more.

Chapter 3 – Techniques You Need To Master When Making Silver Jewelry There are certain techniques you’ll need to master if you want to create stunning pieces of jewelry you can either give away as gifts or to sell in order to make an additional income. In this chapter we’ll go through some of the techniques you’ll find yourself using the most often.

Technique 1 – Preparing Dead Soft Wire

Before you can begin working with dead soft wire you need to make sure it’s free of kinks and as smooth as possible.

First you need to pull the wire through a polishing cloth as this will help to smooth out any kinks. If you wish to prepare three or four wires together then you should first pull each wire separately through the polishing cloth and then all together. By doing this you’re making sure the wires are all flowing in the same direction, which makes it easier to sculpt them.

Technique 2 – Annealing Silver

This technique helps to soften the silver by applying heat to it. It’s a very crucial technique you need to master as it plays a very important role when it comes to making silver jewelry. The temperature to which you need to get the silver to for annealing is between 1110 and 1200 degrees Fahrenheit. If the heat goes above this, the silver will start to melt.

The easiest way to carry out this technique is by using a blowtorch. Hold the flame on to the silver until it’s begun to turn a dull pink in color. In order for the annealing process to be carried out correctly the correct temperature should be maintained for around 30 seconds. So you need to maintain this dull pink color for about the same amount of time.

To ensure this happens, you need to draw the flame into and way from the metal slightly, making sure the silver doesn’t become overheated. When the silver does become overheated you’ll notice it turns a bright orange/white color.

I would highly recommend when trying out this technique for the first time, you use a few scrap pieces of silver first. Not only will this help you to judge the colors better but also help you to improve your skills. It’s best when you wish to do any annealing that you carry out the task in an environment that’s pretty dark. This way you’ll be able to see better what color the flame is and what color the silver has begun to go. It’s also a good idea to brush the surface of the silver prior to annealing with some boric acid and alcohol.

When making certain silver jewelry items, be aware the only areas or joints need annealing is where soldering is going to occur, rather than the whole item. For example when it comes to making pendants or chains the bales will only need to be annealed. Finally, when it comes to using the silver you’ve annealed it’s important you carry out the final process of quenching. When you carry out this part of the process the silver should be a black color, because if you quench it whilst it’s still red hot it can actually cause the silver to weaken. However if you would prefer the metal to age harden then let it cool slowly.

The process of quenching simply requires you to place the silver into some water for a few seconds.

Technique 3 – Melting Silver Silver is the whitest of all pure metals found on this planet and when polished properly can end up with a mirror finish to it. It’s this that’s helped to make this metal such a popular choice when it comes to making jewelry or other types of ornaments. Silver is very malleable and although heat is often used to help alter its design, it can be hammered into a variety of different shapes as well. However in this part of this chapter we are going to explain more about the two techniques you can use to melt silver. Method 1 – Melting Silver In A Kiln

Step 1 – You place the pieces of silver into a heat resistant container normally referred to as a crucible and these tend to be made either from ceramic, clay or stone as they won’t melt or soften when the temperatures reach a level that silver will melt at. Step 2 – Now take the crucible, which you’ve filled with pieces of silver and place into a gas fired, or electric kiln and allow the silver to heat up. The silver will begin to melt once it’s reached a temperature of 1435 degrees Fahrenheit. However this isn’t the time when you should be removing it from the kiln you should in fact wait until the temperature of the silver has reached 1635 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you happen to be using silver for making jewelry that contains copper alloy be aware it won’t be completely melted until it’s reached a temperature of 1650 degrees Fahrenheit. You’ll find if you’re going to use a kiln to melt silver then a gas fired one will allow these temperatures to be achieved more easily. Step 3 – As soon as the desired temperature as been reached you must turn the kiln off immediately and remove the silver from it using a long pair of tongs and some gloves. Once you’ve removed the crucible from the kiln then pour the melted silver directly into the mold that you’ve prepared, as once out of the kiln the silver will quickly start to cool and become solid once more.

Method 2 – Melting Silver With A Torch Most people simply don’t have the space or money available to melt silver using a kiln and this is why this method is proving so popular. Of course when working with hot metals, make sure you do so in a place that’s well ventilated and away from others. It may be a good idea to set up an area in your garage or garden shed where this work can be carried out. To melt silver with a torch you need to carry out the following.

Step 1 – Begin by removing anything that’s considered to be flammable from the area where you’ll be working. To heat up the silver it’s best to use an oxy-acetylene or oxygenpropane torch. The torch must produce an oxygen-assisted flame as this will help to ensure the desired temperature for melting silver will be reached. Of course you don’t

need to actually have to buy these torches; there are many places where you can hire them as well.

Step 2 – Just as with melting silver in a kiln, you need to place your pieces of silver to be melted into a crucible. Then place this on to a large piece of stone or into a box that’s been filled with sand. The reason you do this is that both of these can withstand the heat from the flame of the torch.

Step 3 – Next you need to put on a welding mask, some thick gloves and an apron. If you haven’t got these, again you may find the place where you hired the torch from hires these as well. However I would recommend you actually purchase them yourself, as you’ll be using them quite often. Step 4 – Once you’ve prepared everything and put on the protective clothing you can now light the torch. Then you need to adjust the preheating flame to a neutral position and its ready to use.

Step 5 - As soon as the flame is ready you move it down onto the crucible and then squeeze the oxygen valve. Doing this, will cause the heat emitted by the flame to increase. Now keep applying the flame to the silver until it’s all melted.

The best way to check if it’s all melted is by taking hold of the crucible with a set of tongs and tilting it very slightly. If you notice it all moving towards the edge then turn the heat off at once and again pour the silver directly into the mold you created earlier. NB: Please remember to be very careful when working with molten silver as it can burn you very badly if it happens to splash or get poured onto your skin. Plus always make sure

you wear good quality protective clothing and make sure the area in which you’re working is completely clear.

Technique 4 – Soldering Silver Through soldering you’re joining or fusing pieces of silver together by applying heat. Again when soldering silver, it’s vital you wear the right kind of protective clothing. Not only should you be wearing a good pair of thick gloves and some safety goggles, but also a heavy-duty apron.

It’s important to understand there are four different types of solder you can use for joining pieces together. We’ll take a look at these before we look at the process of soldering. Type 1 – Enamelling Solder

This form of solder has the highest melting point. In order for it to melt, it needs to reach a temperature of 1490 degrees Fahrenheit. As the name would suggest this form of solder is only suitable for using when two pieces of silver need to be enameled to each other. Type 2 – Hard Solder

This type of solder tends to be made up of strips that measure about 6mm wide and the type you should be using first when wanting to solder two heavy pieces together. The melting point of this type of solder is much higher. Type 3 – Medium Solder

This type of solder measures 3mm wide and is often used after hard solder has been used but before the easy solder. However you may find this type of solder difficult to work with, as it can be very sticky. Type 4 – Easy Solder

These types of solder measures about 3mm wide but melts at a much lower temperature than the others. Generally this type of solder will melt at around 1240 degrees Fahrenheit. This type is best used for making very simple joints such as those used on findings or jump rings.

However before the process of soldering silver together can begin, there are certain other tasks that need to be carried out first.

Task 1 – You need to make sure the silver being used has been properly annealed first. (I have explained how this process needs to be carried out.)

Task 2 – Next it’s important the silver to be soldered, has been thoroughly cleaned first. Even the minutest amounts of dirt left on the silver can cause the soldering to become tarnished. Also make sure the solder itself is clean and bright as when it becomes heated you’ll find it begins to flow a lot quicker and easier. The most effective method of cleaning silver ready for soldering is to use some detergent with a degreasing agent in it and an abrasive pad. Otherwise you can use pumice powder to remove any dirt or grease. After you’ve carried out either of these two cleaning tasks, make sure you clean each piece thoroughly. Of course if you would prefer a much easier way to clean the parts to be joined together is to steam clean them. Task 3 – When soldering silver you need to make sure there are no gaps between the pieces you wish to solder to each other. By making sure there aren’t any gaps you will prevent the solder from running down one side of the seam.

However if there are gaps between the joints or the two pieces are poorly matched then this may result in pitting of the solder. Plus it could actually create a joint that can very quickly and easily break. Sometimes it isn’t possible to solder two pieces of silver together because they simply cannot be fitted against each other well.

Finally it’s important to make sure you’re using a good quality flux when soldering silver together. The best and most cost effective type of flux should be made from borax. Using borax will not only help to slow down the flow of the solder but also prevent it from becoming oxidized. If you ensure the joint is oxide free you’re actually helping to create the perfect surface for soldering to take place. So the finished article will look more professional as it’ll be hard for people to identify where the two pieces have been joined together. As soon as you’ve carried out the above tasks, you’re now ready to begin the work of soldering your two pieces of silver together. To solder two pieces of silver together you need to carry out the following.

Step 1 –The first thing you need to do is make a paste, grinding some of the borax cone (flux) into a dish to which you add a little water.

Once you’ve made the paste, you now brush this on to both pieces of the silver you wish to join together. Although I am using pictures to illustrate how to make a silver ring the steps in this technique can also be used for soldering any item of jewelry together.

It’s important when applying the flux you make sure, not only does it remain in contact with the solder at all times, but it also remains in contact with the two pieces being soldered together.

Step 2 - Now cut out a small piece of solder (paillon). For rings I would suggest you use easy solder. However for carrying out much more complex welds you should start off using hard solder, then apply a medium solder, followed by an easy one. You should place the small piece of solder you cut earlier just below or on the joint.

Step 3 – Next you need to heat the piece of jewelry very gently using a titanium stick to help you reposition the item. Whenever you’re repositioning the piece make sure the solder stays in position and make sure the heat is directed at the piece rather than at the solder, as this will become heated up through conductivity.

As soon as you notice the solder has become shiny and begun to run along the join then take the heat away and allow the item to cool for a few seconds.

When it comes to wanting to solder large pieces of silver together then it’s best to use some binding wire to help keep the pieces in the correct position. Also it’s far better to use a longer strip of solder for this task, which is more commonly referred to as stick soldering. Also if you’d like to prevent the heat from the flame being conducted to other areas of the item, especially when making chains then you should isolate the parts that don’t require soldering first. One particular method you can use is to place the part of the jewelry that doesn’t need soldering into a dish containing cold water. However if you’re going to be setting a gemstone into any of your jewelry pieces it’s best not to add these until after the soldering has been completed. If you do there’s a risk the gemstone will become damaged, as heat will be conducted through to it.

Step 5 – Finally, after soldering of the two pieces has been completed the item then needs to be quenched. Simply place the soldered piece into a bowl of vinegar before rinsing it in clean water.

Technique 5 – Casting Silver

Through casting you’re able to make items that are identical over and over again. There are three forms of casting that can be used. Although we take a brief look at these below I have chosen to explain more about how to carry out cuttlefish casting. Form 1 – Commercial Casting

To use this particular method you need to actually create a rubber mould first. However, once made it can be then be used over and over again. Form 2 – Lost Wax Casting

To use this form of casting, first you need to make a model from wax, which you then need to place inside either a metal flask or sleeve. Once you’ve done this, the flask or sleeve gets filled with a mixture made up of silica and plaster which is called an “investment”.

Then after this has been done it gets placed into a kiln so the wax then burns away and you’re left with the investment that’s actually the mould into which castings can then be made. Form 3 – Cuttlefish Casting

This is the simplest way for you to create a mould to cast the same item over and over again. Not only is this form of casting easy to use, but also it’s very quick to use and enables you to make most basics shapes. The best place for actually purchasing cuttlefish is at your local hardware store or pet shop. Now let’s go through the process involved of cuttlefish casting.

Step 1 –You first need to cut a square out of the cuttlefish. It is important you cut this out of the thickest part. Once this has been done you now need to slice the bone half, so you have two flat pieces. Then take some sandpaper and rub this over the two pieces to make them smooth.

Step 2 – Now take a modeling knife and carve into one half of the cuttlefish the design you want. Then at the top most point of the design you need to carve a channel or deep groove through which the molten silver can then be poured.

Step 3 – As soon as you have finished cutting out your design and the groove, you now need to place the other half of the cuttlefish back on top. Then take some steel binding wire and wrap it around the two pieces of cuttlefish so they are held firmly in place.

Step 4 – Now very slowly and gently begin to pour the molten silver from the crucible into the channel you cut out earlier. Then leave the molten silver to cool before you cut the wire and then very gently prize the two halves of the cuttlefish apart.

Step 5 – Once you’ve opened up the cuttlefish you can finish off the piece of silver jewelry you have just made by pickling it first. Then smoothing the surface and edges down with filing paper. If you’re having problems getting hold of cuttlebones, you may want to consider using “delft clay” instead. This is a special clay system used for the process of casting. One of the major advantages of using it over cuttlebones is it produces a better surface to the finished product. However this type of clay is very expensive to buy and can only be used once because once it comes into contact with heat it immediately dries out. If you do decide to use delft clay rather than cuttlebones you must not quench the mould in water, rather simply tap the mould and it should fall way.

A couple of things you should be aware of when it comes to casting pieces of jewelry, is if you’re going to make more complicated pieces then several molds may be required to create these. Then once each piece has been cast, you can then solder them together later on. Plus if you want, the thinner pieces can be made to look even more spectacular either by being bent or hammered into different shapes.

Finally when it comes to casting you’re going to be working at very high temperatures along with molten metal so make sure you carry out the work on a surface that’s nonflammable. Also do not wear loose fitting and make sure you pour the silver very gently so that it doesn’t splash.

Technique 6– Creating Gemstone Settings From Tubing

The process of creating gemstone settings from tubing is one of the easiest skills you can learn. In fact you’ll find that tubing is the perfect material to use for creating custom settings for gemstones, which can then easily be closed as long as you have a stone setting tool set.

To create the perfect setting from tubing for a gemstone, to incorporate into your pieces of jewelry, you need to carry out the following steps.

Step 1 – Carefully measure the width of the gemstone you wish to create the setting for. Once you have this measurement then choose a section of tubing into which it can be set, which is around 0.5mm wider than the stone.

NB: Please make sure the inside width of the tubing you’re going to be using is smaller than the gemstone or it will simply fall directly into the tubing.

Step 2 – Next you need to cut a length of tubing, which is going to be long enough to contain the depth of the stone. Once you’ve done this you now need to file the edges of the tubing down so they are smooth, making sure you shape the bottom edge so it’s in contact with the edge of the gemstone all the way round. Then solder the setting into place on your design. Step 3 – Now take a hart or setting bur that’s the same size or slightly smaller than the stone, which is going to be placed into the tubing, and cut a level seat into it that’ll be just deep enough to hold the stone.

Step 4 – Once you’ve cut the level seat into the tubing you can now set the stone into it. But please make sure you leave a short rim of metal above the stone, as this is what will then be used to hold the gemstone securely within the tubing. Step 5 – As soon as you are happy with the position of the tubing you can now secure the gemstone in place by burnishing the metal in a circular motion using a very highly polished punch.

Technique 7 – How To Bend Tubing Step 1 – The first thing you must do is anneal the tubing as described in technique 2 of this chapter. By doing this you’re softening the metal a little so bending the tubing will be much easier.

Step 2 – Next you need to lubricate some wire that’s no more than two-thirds the size of the inside diameter of the tubing that needs bending. This will then help to make removing it from the tubing after it’s been bent much more easily. Once you’ve the wire is ready, thread this through the tube, as it will act as an Arbor. Step 3 – Now very gently wrap the tubing around a mandrel or some other form that’ll help you to create the bends you want. It is important as you carry out this task you make sure the wire is bending along with the tube, as this will then prevent kinks from appearing.

Step 4 – Once you’ve bent the tubing, remove the wire and allow the tubing to cool before incorporating into the rest of your silver jewelry design.

Technique 8 – How To Hammer Silver

Of all the techniques you need to learn for making silver jewelry this is the most basic one. The great thing about learning this technique is once you’ve mastered it for hammering silver you can use the same technique for hammering other soft metals such as aluminum, brass or copper. The tools you need to carry out this particular technique can easily be purchased locally at good crafts store or online. To hammer silver you need to carry out the following:

Step 1 – The first thing you need to do is place the piece of silver you wish to hammer into an anvil block. It’s important you make sure the side you wish to hammer is facing up towards you. Step 2 – Now take the hammer in your right hand (left if left handed) and hold it about 3 inches below the head. Then with your free hand you must press down on the edge of the silver. If holding the silver is difficult because it’s small, then use an anvil clamp instead. However if you’re going to be hammering silver that’s going to form a ring you’re best placing it onto a long metal ring holder.

Step 3 – Once the silver’s in position very gently begin to tap the surface of the silver with the ball end of the hammer. You must start off softly and slowly because adding more dents is very easy, but taking them away can prove very difficult indeed. You need to keep gently tapping the silver until the desired textured effect you’re looking for has been achieved. Step 4 – Make sure you rotate the silver regularly and as you do, make sure you press down on the section that’s already been hammered. Now repeat the same process as mentioned above for the next section of silver. There are certain things you should be doing which will help to enhance and improve your hammering skills further.

1. Experiment. Take a piece of silver and try hammering it with both ends of the hammer to see what wonderful and different effects it can create.

2. Before you start work on any piece of silver, you should spend time practicing hammering on a scrap piece of metal first. This will also help you to learn how gently the metal needs to be hammered. Above I have shown you just some of the techniques you need to learn in order for you to be able to make stunning pieces of jewelry not only for yourself but also for loved ones and friends. Plus once you feel you have mastered these skills you can look at selling pieces to earn an additional income.

Chapter 4 – Some Projects To Try Out Making silver jewelry isn’t all that difficult even if you’ve never attempted it before. Certainly, once you’ve learnt even the most basic of techniques you can soon start making some wonderful and unique pieces of jewelry you can wear or give as gifts to loved ones and friends. Plus once you gain more experience and learn more techniques, you could possibly look at starting your own jewelry design business. Of course there are certain things you need to consider before you begin work on any projects.

Now you’ve chosen the material in which you’re going to make your jewelry, you now need to think about the design.

The best way to decide what type of jewelry you’re going to make is to look at the type of jewelry you like wearing yourself, or pieces you see others wearing that you admire. Also don’t forget to take a look through various magazines, online and in shops to see what sorts of designs are being favored at the moment. Then create your own based on these.

When it comes to choosing designs it’s a good idea to collect any images you like and keep them in a book or folder so you can then refer to them when you start work on any projects. Most people that decide to take up a new hobby will often go out and purchase a full range of tools, materials and supplies needed. But this isn’t something you shouldn’t be doing from the outset, as the amount of money you’ll need to invest is quite substantial.

Instead it’s much better to start off using kits first and when you feel your skills are starting to improve then look at buying what you need. Don’t be afraid to gradually build up your inventory of materials, tools and supplies.

It’s important before you go out and buy anything; you set yourself a budget first. Certainly in the beginning you should view the first few projects you carry out as a practice run. Not only will this help to save you money but will help to ensure you don’t waste valuable and expensive materials creating pieces of jewelry that’ll only get thrown away. So How Do You Go About Making Silver Jewelry?

To make great pieces of silver jewelry you need to make sure you have the right supplies and have learnt the right techniques. Yes this book can help you to learn how to make jewelry from silver but I’d highly recommend you see if there’s somewhere local that offers classes in jewelry making.

If you’re having problems finding what you need locally there are plenty of places online that can offer you the tutorials to learn the skills for making silver jewelry as well. If you do find classes locally then make sure the person providing the training is someone who has experience of working with silver previously, ideally look for classes being taught by professional metalworkers. Of course attending classes is all well and good but you need to practice what you have been taught. If you can, it’s best you actually set aside a space especially for doing your work in. If you’ve s spare room in your home then convert this over to your studio.

When it comes to making silver jewelry there are certain things you need to do before you can commence work on any projects. The things you must do to prepare are as follows:

1. Gather the materials, tools and supplies you’ll need to make your jewelry from and place these in somewhere in easy reach. 2. Next, if you’ve long hair, this should be tied back and if you are wearing any kind of jewelry especially the dangly sort then remove it. 3. It’s important to make sure the space where you’ll be working is free from clutter, well lit and well ventilated.

4. If you’re going to be using any kind of torch make sure the tank has sufficient gas in it and check it over before each use. Look for any leaks that may cause the flow of propane from the tank to the torch itself.

5. Check the compound in which the silver is going to be pickled in is clean. If it isn’t then you should prepare a new batch before you start work. In fact I would recommend you use a new batch of pickling compound for each project you work on.

6. Remember to wear the right sort of protective clothing; a pair of safety goggles, some thick gloves and an apron. It’s also best to wear clothes, which should any silver happening to drip on them you won’t be worried about damaging them.

7. Finally it’s important you make sure before you begin any projects not only do you have the appropriate tools and materials, but also a copy of the pattern you’re going to be creating your piece from. Now you have everything in place you can begin trying out some of the projects below.

Project 1 – Sterling Silver Hand Forged Hoop Earrings

If you are looking for a very simple project to begin with then making this pair of sterling silver hand forged hoop earrings should be considered. Materials Needed:

1. 20 Gauge Sterling Silver Round Wire 2. 2 Smooth Ring Mandrels Tools Needed:

1. A Pair of Round Nose Pliers 2. Polished Anvil 3. Plastic Mallet

4. Small Highly Polished Chasing Hammer 5. Tumbler

6. Burnishing Compound

Step 1 – Take the 20 gauge sterling silver round wire and cut off several pieces that are all of the same length using the round nose pliers.

Once you’ve cut each piece off, with the tip of the round nose pliers create a loop at one end of each wire.

The best way of removing any tool marks from the wire is by burnishing it with the tips of the pliers by rotating them in the loop. After you’ve done this, the wire should look shiny and round and should be free from dents.

Step 2 – Next round the ends of the wire off with a 1mm cup burr. Then take a plastic mallet and shape the wire into a circle on a smooth ring mandrel. The easiest way for you to do this when using hard wire is to wrap it firmly at the end of the mandrel. Then you simply slide it up and tap with the mallet before taking hold of the next wire.

Step 3 – Once all the wires are circular, bend up the rounded ends of the earrings into a curve and place each one on to the polished anvil and begin to flatten them lightly all around with the highly polished chasing hammer.

Select a chasing hammer, which comes with a head that measures 1 inch or more. As you flatten out the earring make sure you focus on the centre part as much as possible. Only tap the metal lightly as any harder will cause it to become deformed.

It will take around 20 seconds for you to complete this task on each earring. Plus you mustn’t rush this part of the process otherwise mistakes will be made and the earrings won’t turn out as you’d like.

Step 4 – Before placing the earrings into a tumbler with some burnishing compound, make sure each earring is the same size and shape as the other. By putting them in the compound they’ll come out looking a lot shinier and also slightly harder.

NB: When it comes to using the anvil and the chasing hammer, make sure these are kept as clean as possible, so before you use them clean them down to remove any silver filings or grit. If you don’t, not only will this cause deformities in the earrings but will also damage the silver.

Project 2 – Simple Drop Earrings

Of all the pieces you can make from silver these are among the simplest. By adding semi precious stones to them or little funkier by using beads, you can create some stunning designs. Materials Needed:

1. 2 Headpins or Eye pins

2. 2 Ear wires (Sterling Silver If Possible)

3. Beads or Semi Precious Stones of Your Choice 4. Spacer Beads Tools Needed:

A Pair of Round Nose Pliers Step 1- Take the head pin and thread some beads or semi precious stones. If you intend to make drop earrings using beads, then placing a spacer bead between each one as this helps to break up the beads.

Step 2 – Once you’ve threaded the beads or semi precious stones onto the headpin you now need to create a loop. To do this take your pair of round nose pliers and very gently bend the head pin over until an angle of 90 degrees is achieved. Then bend the head pin over the pliers until a loop has been completed.

Steps 3 – After creating the loop attach some French wire or other finding for earrings and they’re ready to wear.

Project 3 – Sterling Silver Ring It’s quite possible for you to make your own sterling silver ring using this very simple technique. This is the same technique that experienced metal smiths have been using for centuries to create such pieces of jewelry. Materials Needed:

12 to 16 Gauge Sterling Silver Wire Tools Needed:

1. Ring Mandrel

2. Ball Peen or Forming Hammer 3. Jewelry Saw 4. Jewelry File

5. Sandpaper

6. Butane Torch 7. Solder

8. Bowls and Pickle Compound Step 1 – Cut a piece of sterling silver wire and wrap this around the ring mandrel until a ring is formed in the size you need. If you’re making a ring for someone with quite small fingers use thin 16-gauge wire. However if the ring is for someone with much larger fingers (guys for example) then make their ring from a thicker 12-gauge wire.

Step 2 – After wrapping the wire around the mandrel very gently hit it with the ball peen or forming hammer until it starts to take the shape of a ring.

Step 3 – Now cut off any excess wire using a jewelry saw. Although it’s possible for you to cut off any excess wire using a pair of wire cutters, by using a jewelry saw you’ll find the cut is much cleaner and will sit flush against the other wire. In turn this makes soldering the two ends of the ring together much easier.

Step 4 – After you’ve cut off the excess wire, take the file and sand the ends until a perfect ring is formed. Then with a pair of pliers and a hammer, you need to very gently, bring the two ends of the ring together, making sure they’re tight against one another.

Step 5 – Now take a small amount of solder and place above the two ends of the ring. Then turn the torch on and bring close to the solder and keep it there until its melted and the two ends of the ring are fused together.

Step 6 – As soon as you’ve completed soldering the two ends of the ring, place into the bowl with the pickle compound and leave there for a minute or two. Then remove and rinse in clean water then dry it off.

Step 7 – Now place the ring back on the mandrel again and file around where the two ends have been soldered together with the file and sandpaper until the area is smooth. Then place in a bowl with some burnishing compound to polish the ring up. Step 8 – Finally check to make sure the ring is the right size for the person who is going to be wearing it before placing it in a box to present to them.

As you can see when it comes to making silver jewelry rings this is the simplest process of them all.

Project 4 - Diamond Drop Necklace

This particular project will create a piece that looks wonderful when teamed with a simple white blouse or a little black dress. Although I have used Czech black diamond drops and black druks, you can replace them with any other gemstones you like. Once completed the necklace will measure around 17.5 inches, however if you need to make it longer or shorter this can easily be achieved through adding more beads or taking a few beads out. Materials Needed:

1. 2 Packs Silver Lined 6mm Pony Beads 2. 2 Packs Black 4mm Druks

3. 1 Pack Black Czech Top Drilled Diamond Shaped Drops 4. 1 Pack Sterling Silver Figure Eight Jump Rings 5. 1 Pack Silver Plated Crimp Beads

6. 1 Pack Sterling Silver Lobster Claw Clasp

7. 1 Spool SoftFlex Medium Sized Beading Wire Tools Needed:

1. 1 Pair Crimping Pliers Step 1 - Cut of around 20 inches of the SoftFlex beading wire and then thread it through a crimp bead before then threading it through the loop of the lobster clasp and then back through the crimp bead. Once you’ve threaded the wire back through the bead, push the bead close up to the clasp and with your crimping pliers crush the bead closed. Any additional wire should then be trimmed off.

Step 2 – Now take 1 of the Druks and thread this on to the other end of the wire and then thread on 7 pony beads. Repeat this process 6 more times.

Step 3 – Next string on another Druk followed by 3 pony beads and 1drop bead and then follows this with another 3 pony beads. Again repeat this pattern 4 more times. Step 4 – After completing step 3 you need to thread on 1 Druk and 7 pony beads again (See step 2). Repeat this process 6 more times making sure the final item you place on the thread is a Druk.

Step 5 – Now you need to add on the other part of the lobster clasp. To do this first thread on a crimp bead followed by the figure of 8 jump ring and then threading the wire back through the crimp bead. Again make sure the crimp bead is tight up against the figure of 8-jump ring before closing the bead with the crimp pliers.

Project 5 – Wild Orchid Evening Necklace

You will find that, in order to complete this project you need to be willing to push your skills a little more. However once created it will look lovely worn with your favorite little black dress when going out for dinner or to some party this Christmas or New Year. Once made the necklace measures 20 inches at its longest point. Materials Needed:

1. 1 Pack Swarovski 4mm Mystic Black Round Pearls 2. 1 Pack 4mm Amethyst Rounds

3. 1 Pack 4mm Amethyst Fire Polished Crystals 4. 1 Pack Preciosa Amethyst Bicone Crystals 5. 1 Pack Preciosa Jet Bicone Crystals

6. 1 Pack Silver Plated Filigree Tube Beads 7. 1 Pack Silver Plated Liquid Twists 8. 1 Pack Silver Plated 3mm Rounds

9. 1 Antique Silver Plated Abstract Tulip Connector

10. 1 Pack Silver Plated Oval Filigree Clasps And Hooks 11. 1 Pack 4mm Silver Plated Jump Rings

12. 1 Pack Silver Plated Small Corrugated Crimps

13. 1 Spool Fine SoftFlex Beading Wire Tools Needed:

1. 1 Pair Crimping Pliers 2. 1 Pair Wire Cutters 3. Pair Bead Stoppers

Step 1 – Take the SoftFlex beading wire and cut off four pieces. 1 Piece should measure 8 inches long, another should measure 14 inches, the third one should measure 15 inches, whilst the final piece of beading wire should measure 17 inches long. Now take a bead stopper and clip this to one end of the three longest strands you’ve just cut.

Step 2 – On the 14-inch strand, string onto it a crimp bead before bringing the end of the wire through the bottom of a Tulip connector and then back through the crimp bead. Once threaded back through the crimp bead close it using the crimping pliers. Any excess should be trimmed away and now you can start to thread on the beads in the following order.

Start off by threading on 4 Liquid Twists follow by one silver round then 1 Jet Bicone. Then thread on another silver found, 4 Liquid Twists, 1 Amethyst Bicone, a filigree tube and another Amethyst Bicone. Repeat this pattern once more and then add on to the wire, 5 Liquid Twists, 1 Swarovski Pearl, 5 Liquid Twists, 1 Amethyst Fire Polished Crystal, 8 Liquid Twists and 1 Crimp. Make sure you place the crimp bead next to a closed jump ring. Step 3 – Now take the wire measuring 15 inches and again, start off by adding a crimp bead, then crimp this strand to the left of the strand you’ve already completed in the step above. On to this strand you will thread the following in the order stated. Start off by threading on to the wire, 3 Liquid Twists followed by 1 Silver Plated Round then 1 Jet Bicone, then 1 Amethyst Round followed by another Jet Bicone followed by another Silver Round and then finish off by threading on 3 Liquid Twists and 1 Swarovski Pearl. Repeat this pattern another 3 times on this strand before adding a final 13 Liquid Twists and a crimp bead. Make sure you crimp this strand to the same closed jump ring you did in step 2. Step 4 – Now you take the SoftFlex beading wire measuring 17 inches long and to this you add a crimp bead which you then close after you have placed it to the left of the wire threaded in step 3. Once it’s securely in place you can now begin to thread on the beads in the following order.

Begin by threading on 3 Liquid Twists followed by 1 Silver Plated Round, then thread on 1 Amethyst Fire Polished Crystal followed by 1 Silver Plated Round then this should be followed by 3 Liquid Twists, 1 Amethyst Bicone, 1 Filigree Tube and 1 more Amethyst Bicone. Now repeat this pattern another four times on to the wire and finish off with 8 liquid twists and a crimp bead. Crimp the bead to the closed jump ring before attaching the jump ring to the filigree clasp. Step 5 – All you now have left is the 8-inch strand and to this first add a crimp bead and before closing it attach the strand to top of the tulip connector. Once you’ve completed this task you can now string the following on to it.

Start off with 1 Liquid Twist followed by 1 Swarovski Pearl, then thread on another Liquid Twist followed by an Amethyst Bicone. Then after this thread on a Filigree Tube, another Amethyst Bicone, another Liquid Twist and a Swarovski Pearl. Finally thread on 10 Liquid Twists and a crimp bead. Thread the wire through the hook portion of the clasp before threading back through the crimp bead and closing it with the crimping pliers. Again make sure any excess wire is trimmed off before the necklace can be worn and enjoyed.

Project 6- Sterling Silver & Gem Flower Necklace

Not only is this necklace very simple to make but also it looks extremely elegant and can be worn with just about any kind of outfit. Plus women of all ages will enjoy wearing this particular one. If you are making for anyone in particular find out what their birthstone is and use this is the gem for the centre of the design so making it very special and very unique. Materials Needed:

1. 1 Sheet 22 Gauge Sterling Silver 2. Jump Rings

3. Genuine Semiprecious Stones 4. 6mm Bezel Cups Tools Needed:

1. Saw and Saw Blade 2. Masking Tape

3. Extra Fine Point Sharpie or Other Marker Pen 4. File

5. 220 and 180 Grade Sandpaper 6. Flux

7. Small Paintbrush

8. Easy, Medium and Hard Silver Solder 9. Micro Torch and Butane

10. Pickle (Acid compound that you have in a pot that you will be using to clean the silver with after it has been fired) 11. Copper Tongs

12. Two Part Epoxy Resin

13. Objects With A Sharp Point (An Old School Compass Will Suffice) 14. Burnishing Tool 15. Brass Brush

16. Wooden Handled Tweezers It’s important before working on this project you make sure you have everything to hand and there’s sufficient gas to help light the torch.

Step 1 –First, off take the sheet of sterling silver and cut a piece that measures 2.5 inches wide by 3.5 inches long. Then along the 2.5-inch side, place a strip of masking tape.

Step 2 – Now with the sharpie, draw on the tape, a circle freehand that measures about 6.5mm and then draw six petals separately. Once done each of the items drawn should be in a row along the masking and of course will not resemble a flower as yet.

Step 3 – Take your saw and cut out the images you’ve drawn onto the masking tape. Once you’ve cut all seven pieces of silver out, place them to one side ready for use later, not forgetting to remove the masking tape from them first.

Step 4 – Now take the file and use this to round out each piece you’ve just cut as well as smooth off the edges and each side of the sterling silver should then be rubbed briefly with sandpaper. Step 5 – Place some flux on the round piece of the sterling silver with a small paintbrush. This piece of silver is the centre of the flower. Then put 6 pieces of hard solder around this piece of silver on top of the flux, make sure you place them evenly around the circumference. Now take the lit torch and place the flame onto the piece of silver and keep it there until you start to see the solder begin to sweat. As soon as you notice the solder is sweating take the torch away and turn it off.

Step 6 – Now take each one of the petals you’ve cut out and place these on top of the solder you’ve just heated up. Now the pieces together should start to look like a flower. Once all the petals are in place, turn the torch on again and direct the flame towards the petals and the solder. This time you need to wait until the solder has melted and the pieces of metal that form the petals have settled down onto the other piece of sterling silver. Step 7 – Next take this piece and place in the compound (pickle) using the copper tongs and leave in their for a few minutes. When the time has elapsed remove from the compound, again using the copper tongs, before immersing in clean water. This will help to remove any of compounds from the metal.

Step 8 – After rinsing the flower in clean water remove and with the 220-grade sandpaper begin rubbing the edges of the flower down to make them smooth. Do the same for the front and back of the flower.

Step 9 - When you feel the flower is smooth enough, place to one side and now take a small jump ring and flatten it out. Then take the flower and turn it over so the rear of it is showing and onto one of the petals place some medium solder. Then direct the flame from

the torch towards this solder until it starts to sweat then with the wooden handled tweezers place the jump ring on the sweating solder and heat it up once more until it begins to melt so ensuring the jump ring is then fixed to the flower. After doing this, place the flower back in the pickle. Step 10 – Whilst the flower remains in the pickle take one of the 6mm bezel cups and sand the walls of it down until they’re fairly low using the 180 grad sandpaper. Once you’ve done this, remove the flower from the pickle and rinse it off in some clean water.

Step 11 - Once clean apply some flux on to the front of the piece at the centre of the flower. Now place a piece of easy solder on to the flux and again heat it with the flame from the torch until it starts to sweat. As soon as it begins to sweat take the torch away and place the smoothed bezel cup onto the solder then bring the torch back and continue to heat until the piece settles down onto the solder. As before take the flower and place in the compound (pickle) and leave for a minute or 2 before then taking it out and rinsing it in clean water. Then dry the item off.

Step 12 – Now with the brass brush very gently scrub the silver until it regains its shine. Then with the old compass create a crosshatch pattern inside of the bezel cup.

Step 13 – Next with a toothpick mix together the two part epoxy resin and with the same toothpick dab some of the resin into the bezel cup attached to the flower and then place the 6mm stone into the cup. Leave this alone for 20 minutes to allow the epoxy to set and ensure the stone won’t fall out.

Step 14 – Now burnish the edges of the bezel cup so they hug the stone keeping it securely in place then thread a sterling silver chain through the jump ring at the rear of the flower and the necklace is ready to wear. When it comes to making silver jewelry there are certain important things to remember to ensure you carry out your projects safely. The most important things to remember are as follows:

1. Be sure the area in which you are working with pickle compound and soldering equipment is well ventilated. Both of these give of gases that can prove detrimental to your health.

2. Make sure when cutting wire or when filing wire down you wear safety goggles at all times. Even the smallest piece of wire could cause serious damage to your eyes.

3. It’s important when using a soldering torch you have the correct fire safety procedures in place just in case something untoward occurs. Also make sure after you’ve finished using your torch you’ve turned it off properly and don’t lay it down on any surface after you’ve just used it. 4. Spend some time actually reading through the instructions that are provided with the torch and pickling compound so you know exactly how they need to be used. 5. Make sure when working with the pickling compound you never touch it with your hands but to place in and remove items of jewelry using a set of tongs.

6. Although some projects may suggest the wearing of gloves it is best to avoid doing so as these decrease the sensitivity in your fingers. However please be cautious when working with the soldering torch and pickling compound. 7. Even though you may not think it is necessary, make sure you have a good quality first aid kit close to hand.

Chapter 5 – An Accessory With Multiple Purposes The first part of this 2 in 1 exclusive edition ebook discussed silver jewelry making. Tips on how to procure materials, and a discussion on the different tips and techniques on how to create a silver jewelry were provided.

We all know that anyone with a sense a fashion will prefer unique pieces of jewelry not only to stand out but also to make a statement. However, there is problem; most pieces of jewelry that are readily available are most likely mass produced. That means that plenty of other people are also wearing them. Now, if you create your own silver jewelry, this is not a problem. However, silver jewelry making requires an investment of sorts because there are a number of tools as well as materials that need to be purchased. There is, however, another type of jewelry that would not cost as much: paracord bracelets. Making these bracelets would require tools that are readily available and they could serve as a utility cord in times of emergency

Silver jewelry is usually worn just as a fashion accessory though. Although there are movies where the silver jewelry piece catches the bullet instead and keeps the person safe, that isn’t likely to happen in real life. There is, however, another kind of jewelry that is especially crafted to be a survival tool – the paracord bracelet mentioned earlier. As time went on, this piece of jewelry caught on with the mainstream population, and with good reason. Not only is it useful; it could also be stylish because of the unique weavings and color combination. Unlike silver jewelry, it does not cost too much to craft this type of accessory.

Paracord bracelets are on a league of their own because their primary purpose is to be a utility cord and not as a fashion accessory. Because of its light weight and strength, this cord became popular at first as a parachute suspension line, and then as a utility cord for campers and outdoors man. It can be used to bind items securely, to hang heavy items and to put up a shelter. It could also be used in making traps.

Paracord bracelets are sometimes called survival bracelets. The secret behind its strength is the structure of the interwoven strands of nylon. Since nylon is synthetic, it is less prone to form molds and it isn’t likely to harbor bacteria. It is light weight so campers do not have to worry about it being a burden. Most outdoorsmen can unravel an inch of paracord bracelet into a foot of solid cord.

This part of this 2-in-1 edition will give you tips on the different designs and color combinations. The color and design are mainly based on the purpose of the paracord bracelet. If it’s primarily for adornment, several strands of different colors can be incorporated into the design. If the paracord bracelet is primarily for survival, just one color would do. Of course you only want one whole length of cord. If it’s for safety, particularly in settings where you may need rescue, you may use neon colors. Safety paracord bracelets are popular among hikers because the glow makes easy for them to be seen or spotted.

Chapter 6 - What is a Paracord Bracelet and what is Required to Make One? A paracord, also known as a parachute cord, is a multipurpose cord used by the military and outdoor sportsmen. It was first used in parachute suspension lines during the Second World War. However, after the war it became popular in civilian use as well. Made of nylon, it is constructed with several interwoven strands. With a test of 550 pounds, the paracord has seven braided inner strands that can be removed for other purposes. In the US military, the cord is not only popular with paratroopers. Its versatility opens it up for use in many situations. For example, the inner threads can be used for sewing, dental floss, as ties for securing items and a lot more. It's an incredibly light cord, hence its utilization over the board.

One great use for the paracord has been the creation of paracord bracelets. Also referred to as survival bracelets, many outdoor hobbyists and professionals swear by them. With their durability and usage, it isn't any surprise as to why. The nylon construction keeps bracelet immune to mold and other weathering by the elements. In addition to its durability, it can also be seen as a fashionable piece. Many people who desire the paracord for survival also enjoy the look of the braided bracelet. Whether made with one color or two, the paracord bracelet is gaining popularity in the mainstream as well as with outdoor sports. A few common uses include: • • • •

Securing items

Sewing and clothing repair

To stitch a wound or splint a limb

To hang heavy items, such as wild game

• • • • •

To put together a tent or other shelter Mending broken shoelaces Used as a pace counter As a tourniquet

For netting and traps

The options are limitless. In the wild, there is no way of predicting what kind of trouble might befall a hiker, hunter or fisherman. A strong rope is clearly a must have in any survival kit. One of the reasons the survival bracelets are so handy is that you don't have to take up room in your pack for extra rope. Not to mention, the material is so lightweight that it isn't a burden to have and when needed, it can be unraveled into several feet. The benefits far outweigh the faults. In fact, one of the only faults in its usage is the elasticity; depending on what you want to use the cord for. Most of the time, it's a benefit and not a drawback.

Of course, given its availability, you do have to be careful purchasing paracord. Not all paracord is of military grade. To make sure that it is, it's best to look for manufacturers that promise the military specific cord. In a tight situation, the cord can save lives. However, if it doesn't have the same weight test or durability that it should, it could come with disappointment when you need it the most. Naturally, if fashion is what you're after, then its grade might not be as important of a factor. Before you start to make survival bracelets, it's best to decide your main purpose and what type of cord suits it.

When it comes to making a survival bracelet, not a lot is required. It's not a difficult construction or incredibly costly either. In fact, it can be a fun, easy hobby to break into. All that's required first and foremost is the parachute cord. Cordage comes in a variety of colors, creating an endless array of designing options. Though, remember, if your main goal is for emergency situations, a solid color is often best because then you have one solid length of cord. Aside from the cord itself, every paracord making kit needs a pair of scissors, an apparatus for weaving, a curved plastic release buckle and a lighter. With these minimal supplies, the next step is to make the bracelet.

When measuring the cord, remember that every foot of cord will be used in one inch of bracelet. Once the buckle has been secured to either end of the bracelet, all that's left is the knotting process. While the bracelet might appear complicated, it isn't. The weaving

pattern is incredibly easy to follow and systematic. The weaves should alternate, however. If the weave doesn't, the pattern won't be uniform. This process is usually the hardest to get the hang of. Don't worry about messing up at first, you can always redo it. A little bit of practice goes a long way and eventually, the knotting is nothing. When finished with the weaving, there will be extra fabric to cut off. The lighter is then used to melt the ends of the paracord in place beneath it. Making the bracelets only takes a few steps and a little bit of patience. Everything takes time at first. However, once you get the hang of the weaving, the process becomes an easy and convenient hobby. The paracord bracelet is a great essential to any survival kit. Utilized in the military since World War 2 and used commonly by civilians since give it a strong history and testimony. In a survival situation, its uses are limitless. Even with minor inconveniences, it can make your life a lot easier. When camping, especially, there is almost always a need for it. In unpredictable situations, it helps to have a tool that is dependable as well as versatile. A bracelet that unravels a foot per inch is among those. Not only is it handy, but it's fashionable. It's not for survival alone. It creates a look that people love and are not only fun to wear, but a great hobby to invest in. They can be simple and fun to create. The construction is worth all of the effort put into it. At the end of the day, if you have the extra time, making paracord bracelets can be a beneficial way to spend it. Your imagination is the only thing that can hold you back.

Chapter 7 - Getting Started with Paracord Bracelets: Knotting and Weaving Methods Getting started with Paracord Bracelets means learning the different methods involved with making them. These parachute cords are made from nylon rope and were originally used as suspension lines for U.S. parachutes in WWII as mentioned in the first chapter. Once paratroopers were on the ground the cords were useful for many other things as well. Today these cords have many uses both civilian and military. They come in a broad range of colors involving 7 inner strands. Examples of some of the uses would be for strapping off important items to vehicle racks, attaching equipment vehicles or harnesses, securing things for travel, etc. The uniqueness comes from variances in color and the knotting and weaving methods.

The Paracord Bracelets are knotted or braided (weaved) and are worn across the globe. They are helpful in many emergency type situations. They are designed to hold securely to the wrist while being worn but can also be unraveled to assist with many different survival or emergency type scenarios. It is the methods of knotting and weaving that give them their strength. To get started making a Paracord Bracelet takes some paracord and plastic buckles, some scissors, a tape measure, a lighter, and something to hold the paracord in place while you weave. Here are some popular basic knotting and weaving methods -

Caterpillar Sinnet - This pattern is a favorite of many people because it is popular among campers. It is one of the simplest to undo if you need to take it apart. They are sometimes referred to as a 'Chain Sinnett' and make excellent bracelets when the size and bulk of your Cobra Weave doesn't matter. It makes a significantly smaller knot.

Crown Sinnet Weave Pattern - This weave pattern looks great when done with multicolored weaves. A box knot is used to tie a Crown Sinnett style bracelet. This one is simple and fun as well. You can use 4 colors to create a very decorative piece from bracelets to keychains or backpacks. They are very ornate and the color schemes can be handy in groups for quick identification. While this weave is very easy though it looks really complex.

Saw Tooth Weave - People who have already tested themselves on Cobra knot bracelets love the Saw Tooth Weave. It is not as snug as some of the more complex weaves but it works well on bracelets and makes for a very attractive design pattern.

Wide Solomon Bar Pattern - This weave is excellent for making dog collars and belts. It is also good for slings, bags, purses, and just about anything you want to carry. It is basically an extension of the cobra weave only wider. The added strength makes it more suitable for certain types of use. At first it might seem a little complicated but once you get started it really is not hard to master. Snake Knot Pattern - This is a popular pattern with a unique look. Compared to the flat cobra weave the snake pattern is a more rounded design. It is easy to create a very nice wrist lanyard with it. All of these patterns seem a bit complicated when trying them for the first time but the complication fades away quickly after a few minutes of weaving. The choice of using a buckle or a knot to complete the paracord bracelet is up to the maker. Whenever you cut paracord the ends will unravel. That is the purpose of the lighter. You have to 'singe' the ends that you cut in order to melt the inner and outer tips together. Secret to Creating a Paracord Bracelet that is the Right Size

Regardless of the methods of knots and weaves you use there is one secret that seems to be left out in many instructional videos. That is how to properly size your paracord bracelet. You want the bracelet to fit onto a specific wrist and it needs to be tailored for that individual wrist.

You can run across many instances where the bracelet makers were unaware of just how to do this. It seems to be a secret that has not only eluded many paracord bracelet makers but that is not even sought out.

Instead they offer instructions like "if the bracelet is too big then wear it when you shower to shrink it for a better fit" and things along those lines. Some add guidelines like six inches for a woman and seven if you are a man. None of those are as accurate as they should be.

The truth is that a true paracord bracelet is made out of 100% nylon. It will not shrink very well. All moisture does to it is cause it to lose a bit of its dimensional stability. Of course it is a temporary effect as it will return to normal size and shape after it dries. However, there are exceptions to this. Some so-called paracord products have a fibrous material in the center as opposed to the 7 nylon strands that a true paracord bracelet has. They actually 'will' shrink up and change size once they are exposed to water and dried.

The way to get a paracord bracelet sized properly takes some math. Naturally this involves taking an accurate wrist measurement of the intended wearer. The math needed is quite simple and can be done with pencil and paper. If you prefer a calculator then so be it. This method works for any type of bracelet and is not exclusive to paracord bracelets. Grab a piece of printer paper or notebook paper and cut about a half inch strip off the long side. Take that strip and wrap it around the intended wearer's wrist. It needs to be snug but also comfortable, touching the wrist all the way around.

Take a pencil and mark where it overlaps. If the bracelet is for you then you might need some help with this.

Lay the paper down flat, and then take a ruler and measure from the end you started with to the pencil mark. Now you have your wrist measurement.

Visualize this measurement as being the 'inside' of the bracelet when weaving. Also keep a picture of the middle and outer layer of the bracelet in your mind as you tie and weave the bracelet. Be sure you know where the 'inside' circle is that is next to the wrist at all times and your bracelet should turn out to be a perfect fit.

Chapter 8 - The Three Methods to Splice the Paracord Paracord can be used to do a number of projects. Some people use it to make bracelets and necklaces and others use it for climbing. Paracord is very durable and strong so it can hold up heavy weights. This type of cord does not break easily when holding heavy people or objects making it the perfect cord for climbing. Some people wonder how to splice the cord when producing art projects. The cord is very strong and sometimes braded for strength. Knowing the right way to splice will keep it from unraveling while maintaining most of the strength of the paracord.

History Paracord is a nylon that is not heavy. The cord was originally in production for use with parachutes to hold people. This cord is also very useful to the military and people who practice survival. The cord can be useful in many situations. During World War II, this cord was part of parachutes, but the soldiers found it to be extremely durable to use for other things. It has also been used in outer space. The 550 cord found its way on the shuttle and eventually attached to the Hubble telescope. Astronauts and military personnel know how convenient and useful the paracord really is for many jobs. Three Methods to Splice Paracord

Paracords are strands of braided cord that needs to be spliced in certain ways to avoid raveling.

Eye Splicing or Long Bury Splicing Materials Needed

Sixteen gauge wire Paracord

Razor blade

Needle nose pliers Metal sander

This type of splicing will create loops without knots in the cord. For this you will need a 16 gauge piece of wire to create a needle. Make sure to bend one end creating a small loop and get rid of any sharp areas by filing the tightly crimped tail. With your needle, thread the open area of the cord with the wire. If you are having difficulty opening the end of the cord, cut end of cord with a razor blade and slide the crimped end of the wire inside the middle of the cord. Once you have the wire inside the cord, feed it all the way through until you have the perfect size for a loop. When the loop is the size you wish, make sure to thread the wire back into the braid. You may need to use pliers to open the end more. Adjusting the loop end will help when you go to scrunch the paracord inside of the braid. Once these steps are complete, you will have a loop on the end of the paracord that is perfect for a handle. Most people will heat up the area where the cord comes together and mashes them together.

Burn Splicing Paracord Materials Needed Lighter or solder gun Paracord

Using a lighter or fire, people can melt the end of the paracord by burning the ends. This procedure will allow individuals to put two pieces together. Burning is not a permanent fix

because it can be pulled apart. Weaving two pieces of cord together can allow the creation of crafts such as bracelets or dog leashes.

When melting the ends of the cords together, the creation is a stronger cord. Some people will pull the outside cover off on each side of the cord. They continue on to unwind the ends of the cords leaving about one inch between the cords. After the cords are together, melt the ends to avoid having the rope come apart at the ends. It is important to understand that each time the cord is compromised it loses strength.

Razor Splicing

Materials Needed Paracord

Sixteen gauge wire

Knife or sharp razor blade Lighter

On the end of the paracord, slice the plastic nylon coating about one inch from the end. Always cut at an angle to lessen the weakened cord. When the plastic is cut, insert another piece of paracord inside the center of the one that was cut. This is easy to do if you insert a piece of wire to stiffen up the cord end. Locate a piece of wire about 6 inches long. First, you must begin inserting the wire through the middle of the paracord by pushing into the middle. If the wire is cut at an angle and is free of sharp edges, the wire will insert easier. Push the entire length of the wire into the paracord. Seal off the ends of the paracord by melting the plastic using a lighter or candle. The wire that is inside of the paracord needs to be a type that will flex and bend. This type of wire is 16 gauge. After the wire is inside of the paracord, shape the wire to form a handle or loop by inserting the opposite end into the beginning end. Some people tie knots in the ends of the cord. Others melt the cord so that it is flexible and attaches to the opposite piece.

Spliced Paracord Uses • Arts and craft enthusiasts use the paracord to produce things such as bracelets and necklaces. Others use the paracord to produce belts and hair accessories.

• Paracord makes a great pet leash and collar. The cord braided together is very strong and does not break under a lot of pressure. •

Key chains are very popular crafts that people make out of paracord.

• Survival items such as traps, fish lines, shelters can help the hunter o survivalist to survive in the wilderness if necessary. • Clotheslines are strong enough to hang out extremely heavy blankets and jeans when people use paracord.

• Hammocks are great for the summer. They are easy to make using braided paracord. These are only a few of the things that parachute cord is good to use and that you can make with some splicing abilities.

Splicing paracord can be time consuming as well as very tedious. Learning how to splice two or more cords together can give the upper edge when it comes to putting them together. Splicing paracord is an art. People that wish to use a stronger braid paracord can follow the directions above or visit YouTube for other instructions.

Chapter 9- How to Make Two Color Paracord Bracelets To make a two color paracord bracelet, you will need 1.6m of paracord in the main color (Color A), 80cm of paracord in a second color (Color B), 80cm of paracord in the main color (Color A), a buckle, a lighter and a pair of scissors. If you have a larger wrist, you will probably need to use more paracord; about 2m of the main color, and then 1m each of the two shorter strands. If you are unsure about sizing, or how much paracord to use, always start with a longer strand; you can adjust your bracelet to be smaller as you begin working on it. Start out with the 1.6m long piece of paracord (or if you are making a larger bracelet, whatever the longer strand of paracord is). Fold the chord in half so that it is doubled over with both of the loose ends of the chord evenly lined up. Take the pronged end of the buckle, sometimes referred to as the male side, in your right hand and the folded end of the paracord in your left. You will notice that the buckle has one side that is slightly curved and one side that is flatter. The slightly more curved side should be facing towards the paracord, with the prongs of the buckle pointing upwards.

Slip the folded end of the paracord through the buckle loop about 1.5 inches and then pull both of the loose ends of the paracord through the loop you created with the paracord. You have now made a knot around the buckle. Give the paracord a gentle pull to make sure the knot is snug and secure around the buckle. Check and make sure the strands of the paracord are even. Set this section to the side for a moment while you work on the next step.

Take your two 80cm lengths of paracord. Cut any loose white strands poking out from the end of the paracord. Don't worry if it looks like it is fraying a bit, because you are going to be fusing this end together. Next, using a lighter, slightly heat the end of color B strand and mold it into a point. It is also possible to use other kinds of flame, such as a candle to heat your paracord; however a lighter is the easiest and most straightforward method to use.

Take one of the ends of color A and again, trim any loose ends and use your lighter or other heat source heat the end of color A for a couple of seconds. Always make sure you are heating the paracord only enough to make it malleable as you don't want to set it on fire. Next, take the pointy end of color B, and insert it inside the end of color A about 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch. Use your lighter to fuse the two ends together. Gently press the ends of the cords to help seal them, although be careful not to burn yourself. It is very important that these two strands are securely fused together; otherwise your paracord bracelet will begin to unravel. Take the piece you had set aside. Hold the paracord so that the curve of the buckle is facing upwards towards you. Take the second piece of paracord that you just fused together, and place the fused section behind the buckle with the two strands of paracord sticking out horizontally from each side of the buckle.

Take the right strand of the fused paracord, and fold it up and over the main color strands. Take the left hand strand of the fused paracord, fold it over the cord you just folded, continue folding underneath, over to the right and pull it up through the loop in the cord on the right. Pull it tight so that it is snug and secure and push the knot up all the way to the top. Keep repeating this process until you get to the end of the paracord.

Before you end the second buckle to finish off your paracord bracelet, make sure to test it out around your wrist. If it is not quite big enough yet, keep going with a few more knots. You may find that your paracord bracelet will feel a bitter tighter when it gets wet, therefore you may want to make it a little on the looser side. Take the other end of the buckle. Once again, make sure that the curved end of the buckle is facing upwards. Slip the two middle strands of the paracord through the buckle, inserting them from the top. Slide the buckle down to about an inch above the last knot on the bracelet.

Make one more bracelet pattern knot around the center strands. Test the size of your bracelet again. Adjust it as necessary. If it is too loose, simply pull the center strands to bring the buckle in a little, tightening the bracelet. Continue making bracelet pattern knots until you are as close to the buckle as you can get. Cut off all of the loose strands. Try to cut as close to the bracelet as you can. Use your lighter to fuse all of the ends shut and smooth out all of the ends.

If you prefer, you can also you a basic knot in place of the buckle. For this method, begin by folding the longer strand of paracord in half with both of the loose ends lined up evenly. Take the folded over end and tie a knot about 1.5 inches from the end. From here you will continue working on your paracord bracelet following the same steps as with the buckle. To finish your bracelet using a knot instead of the buckle, tie all of the strands together into a knot after you have completed all of the bracelet pattern knots. From there, continue in the same fashion as with a buckle by cutting off all of the loose strands and then fusing the ends.

Chapter 10- How to Use Paracords to Make Fobs As mentioned beforehand, paracord can be used for more than its original military application. It can be used for belts, shoelaces, straps, bracelets and fobs. Paracord bracelets and fobs are often sold in major stores or online, but are often marked up for at least double the cost of making them. Creating a fob from paracord is easy and only takes a little bit of time to get the hang of it. It will save money and could prove useful in the future. First, a length of paracord is needed. It can be as little as 12 inches or about half a meter. Any less and the fob will be too small to be used for anything. Most fob designs use around 3 feet or a little over a meter of cord. Paracord comes in many shades and lengths and can be picked up at major sporting goods retailers and online.

Next, a lighter or another way to melt the ends of the cord will be needed to prevent fraying at the ends. A pair of scissors or pocket knife will also be needed to trim the excess. If this fob will be made into a keychain, a key ring will also be needed. The key ring can be the split-loop type, or the spring-loaded type. There are many styles of paracord weaving, but the Cobra Stitch is the most common weave pattern. It’s a flat style, best for lanyards and bracelets. However, it can be used for fobs. It just will be long and flat. There are others, such as the square knot or the braid that give the fob a more substantial feel. Also, to create a thinner fob, just remove the inner strands within the paracord, keeping the look but not the bulk.

The cobra stitch starts out with the cord being folded in half, with each half being equal. At the top loop, weave one of the strands through and around the loop. Then, take the second strand and do the same thing on the opposite side. Using the two strands, make a

sideways figure eight, weaving the two strands together. Continue doing that for the length of the paracord.

At the end, there will be two short strands left over. They won’t be enough to make another stitch. Use the scissors or knife to trim the ends flush with the cord. Use a lighter or other heat source to melt the ends. This seals the many thinner strands within the paracord, preventing them from fraying and loosening the weave of the fob. If a key ring is needed, use the loop that was formed at the top and attach whichever style of key ring is desired. The Cobra Stitch is most commonly used in “survival” fobs and bracelets, due to being made from one continuous length of cord. If the Cobra Stitch seems too complex, most fobs can be made with a braid. A braid is made of three strands, which allows for easier color combinations. There is a four strand variation of the braid, known as the Diamond Braid. The Diamond braid takes on a cylindrical shape. Braids can be used for bracelets, rope, dog leashes, fobs and more.

Using three separate strands, tie a knot at the top, about an inch from the end. The excess can be trimmed later. Start the braid by taking one strand and crossing it over another. Then alternate the order of the strands. The order would be something like this; 1 over 2 and 3, 3 over 1 and 2 and so on. Continue for the length of the cord. Leave room at the end if a key ring needs to be attached. A loop and knot at the end will be sufficient to attach a key ring. A weighted fob can be made using a length of either cobra stitch or braided paracord attached to a specific knot known as a Monkey Fist. The Monkey Fist knot will take some time to master, but will produce a very beautiful knot. The finished knot will look like a ball of wound paracord. In addition to the previously mentioned materials, a marble or small round rock will be needed.

When a length of braided or cobra stitched paracord is nearly completed, make a loop with the remainder. Make the loop big enough to wrap once around the marble or rock. Take a length of paracord and wrap it three times over the top of your weight. Now, wrap the paracord three times around the middle.

This is the part where it gets tricky. Wrap the cord three more times around the middle loops. Tighten up the cord around the weight. Trim the excess cord and seal it using a lighter. If done correctly, the weighted fob should be securely attached to the other fob used.

There are many more weaving styles and knot styles to give endless possibilities to the design of a paracord fob. Many of them can be found online with pictures of the finished product attached. A general web search is all it takes to find dozens of designs. An original design can be created with enough paracord and time.

There are some commercially available decorative items to add to a paracord fob, like flowers or skulls. These are more likely to be found online than in the local sporting goods store. Some companies sell plastic pieces to add to a paracord lanyard. These are mostly for the safety of the wearer. Making a paracord fob is simple, easy and only takes a few minutes. With a little bit of practice, a person can create dozens of fobs. They can make practical fobs that could prove invaluable in a survival situation, or they can make silly ones that resemble cartoon characters. Paracord is not limited to survival and linear design. Paracord can be used to make silly fobs that look like rainbows or they can use the paracord to make a belt. The possibilities are endless.

Chapter 11- How to Use Paracords to Make Neck Lanyards Lanyards can be used to hold ID’s, name tags, and keys. There are many decorative lanyards available for purchase. You can also make your own lanyards at home. One of the best materials you can use to make them is paracord.

Paracord is strong and slightly elastic, making it easy to work with. The cord is available in many colors, so you can choose one that suits your style or purpose (such as school spirit). Paracord was originally used to make suspension lines for parachutes, but is now often used as a general purpose utility cord. It has even been used by astronauts when repairing the Hubble Space Telescope. This gives you some ideas on how strong and durable the material is.

The first thing you will need to do is gather the following materials: Scissors

A lighter

Swivel trigger hooks

Double barrel cord lock 10 feet of paracord

The first step is to burn each end of the paracord into a point so that you can easily thread the cord through the two holes in the cord lock. Make sure to take care not to burn

yourself on the lighter or the hot material as it cools. Next, slide the cord lock all the way down to the looped end of the paracord. Thread the two ends of the cord through the swivel hook and slide down until you have about 20 inches between the swivel hook and the loop end.

The next step is to fold to the paracord so that you have the two longer pieces behind and on either side of the center cords. To complete the lanyard, you will use the cobra weave to tie the cords together. The cobra weave is named as such because it weaves cords through an "s" loop. This will form a very tight weave and a strong cord. It is not complicated to create a cobra weave. First, take the cord on the left and pass it over the two center cords. Next, take the right cord and pass it over the left cord. Then, pull it up behind the two center cords, and through the loop on the left side. Finally, pull the knot tight so that it fits snugly against the swivel hook. Repeat this step, beginning with the cord on the right side, and making another snug knot. You will continue making the knots, alternating sides each time. Continue to weave until you have about five inches of knots on the cord. It is important to keep the same amount of tension on the knots so they will remain even as you work. When you have created five inches of knots, cut off the left and right cords. Again, use the lighter to melt the cord at the points where it was cut, taking care to not burn your fingers while holding the cord. Use the swivel hook to attach items to the lanyard, and the cord lock to adjust the length.

It may take a few tries to get the knots correct because the weave is complicated. It is a good idea to practice making the cobra weave on another piece of paracord first, in order to get used to it. Paracord is also available in different thicknesses, as well as colors. Usually, the 550 paracord is easiest to use for weaving. It is also possible to make a two-toned lanyard, however, it does require a lot more cutting and melting. You simply cut two lengths of different colored paracord and join them, using a lighter to melt the pieces together. After that, follow the regular instructions for the cobra weave. Another knotting technique for making a lanyard using paracord is the double tattered knot. This project will require two 10 foot lengths of paracord. For this knot, you will weave both sets of the ends of the paracord through the swivel hook, giving you four strands to work with. Bring the two right strands over the two left strands, and then push the ends back through the loop formed on the left side. Gently tighten the knot. Repeat this step using the two right strands, and continue this process, alternating sides each time.

As you add new knots, push the other knots up gently in order to keep them tight. Once you have about 5 inches of knots, tie them off at the bottom using a half hitch knot and cut off the extra string. Again, burn the edges of the string flat where the cuts were made. Anytime you cut paracord, you need to burn the end to prevent it from unraveling. It also strengthens the cord. The double tattered knot makes it very simple to use different color combinations when making the lanyard. You can use your two favorite colors, or the colors of your favorite sports team, or any other combination you can think of. As you become more skilled at weaving the paracord, you can experiment with other knot styles, including the cross knot and the groucho knot. These knots are a little more complicated, but will add some more style to your project. The more style, the more unique your lanyard will be.

Paracord can also be used to make bracelets, decorative keychains, and many other useful tools. Hikers and outdoor enthusiasts often wear items made of paracord because it can be unwoven and used for survival gear when necessary. Experimenting with different knots and sizes of paracord can give you a number of different lanyards to wear. You can even keep an extra one in your drawer at work or your glove box in case you forget yours at home. Knowing how to work with paracord gives you the ability to make crafts to sell for a secondary income. It is important that children get assistance when working with paracord because it is very easy to burn one self. However, it is something that all scouts should know how to do so they can have paracord in their packs.

Chapter 12- How to Use Paracords to make Necklaces Sometimes a person ends up in a situation they don't want, and this situation can be life threatening. When these potential survival situations occur a paracord necklace can come in handy. They can be formed out of standard paracord and can end up being very useful. You should learn the proper techniques for making one before starting though as you do not want to create a hazard when actually in a strenuous situation. A variety of variations exist for making a necklace out of paracord and each technique has its advantages and disadvantages. The main way to do this is by taking the cord you have and fusing it together with a lighter. You can of course simply tie it, though the previous method may end up working better for you. The type of paracord you use will also influence the outcome of the project and will determine the overall durability of the necklace. If you want to be sure it does not break under pressure find the strongest cord available and work with that. You can often locate these cords at specialty supply stores or by going online, though you should consider using supplies you may already have available. When you use paracord for a survival situation always remember to double check the work performed to ensure it is up to the task. You do not want it failing on you in the middle of a heated crisis, so preferably work with the strongest material you can find. This can make a noticeable difference when dealing with extreme situations such as cliff climbing or sky diving. A person can end up in a undesirable circumstance fairly quickly and this device can be a life saver. Keeping it on you at all times is your best bet if you do not have any backup items that can substitute for it.

Each situation will be different and the best way understand your needs it by looking carefully at your current requirements when on a trip and planning accordingly. If you do not need survival gear it is best to simply leave it behind and not bother creating any unnecessary equipment. A simple paracord necklace can often provide all the help you need. Many people lack the knowledge to use ropes effectively and this can be a serious problem. You should learn how to properly tie one and the variations that exist, so that when something does occur you are completely prepared. In order to find these ropes you can either search online or go to a store near you. Deciding to look online is your best bet if you need a specific type of paracord not easily

found at most locations. While most general purpose ropes will hold out in an extreme situation you do not want to take that chance when your life is at risk. The most effective method of maintaining your safety is by always staying alert, but when you do need additional help a paracord necklace can definitely be useful. Always make sure everything is well constructed before attempting to use it though.

Many people also find the necklaces useful in other situations such as when they need a general purpose tool or simple handing device. It can be used to secure your equipment and can also work as a holding device for certain items. You can hold keys or other small items on it so they are easily retrievable in the event of an emergency. This can a noticeable difference in the time you save if you do not have anything else to replace it. Understanding all the uses of the necklace is a wise idea if you want to make the most out of it. The actual time it takes to create these necklaces can vary from only a few minutes to over a half an hour depending on the complexity of the design. The type of rope use can also make a difference when trying to conserve time. You should choose a design that is easy to implement and effective at holding other items in place. Knowing where to locate these cords is also a good idea if you plan on making more than one of them. The cost savings can definitely add up if you decide to buy the supplies online and you can often receive free shipping on large orders. For individuals that simply want to make an appearance they can be interesting accessories. You can wear them as a normal necklace if you like the particle design and can even sell them. There are many uses a person can achieve with these items and they come in many style as well. Creating your own variation is relatively easy if you know how to and many resources exist online that can help. The cost for the supplies will likely be paid for in time by the utility they provide. Each item you create can help someone in a survival situation or simply provide a way for them to hold their items. When creating a paracord necklace always remember to check the seams where it is being tied or sealed so you know it will hold up to stress. You do not want to put someone's life in danger simply because you decided to overlook this aspect. The durability of the cord and where you purchased it will also have an effect on the strength of the item. Make sure the locations you buy the supplies from have reputable staff on hand to handle any situation that comes up such as returns. You want to look into the background of any company you do continual business with to make sure provide what you need.

Having one of these necklaces on hand can not only save someone's life, but also provide the utility you need when on the move. If you go on frequent trips you can almost always find a use for these items, and by keeping one on you at all times you know exactly what to expect. For people that are independent minded and want to take care of situations on their own, these paracord necklaces can work out great. All you need is some extra time on your hands and the right knowledge to put one together and you can end up with a useful and engaging item.

Conclusion Creating your own piece of jewelry is fun if you know how to. The problem is that the intricate details could discourage a lot of people. However, if you know the basic techniques, you would be able to see how easy it could get. Those pieces are just small parts that need to be soldered or woven together.

The basic techniques discussed are advantageous for beginners. As you move along your learning curve, you will be able to produce complex patterns and designs. Paracord bracelets could evolve into pet collars and necklaces too.

You may have been surprised as to how simple it is to create your own silver jewelry or paracord bracelet. The tips and techniques in silver jewelry making consist of simple steps that are easy to execute. You just need to start with the designs that are quite simple and are easy to work with. Even the more intricate designs you may have seen require the same basic techniques discussed in this book; working on them will just need more patience and workmanship.

Never forget the safety precautions included in this book especially those in making silver jewelries. Soldering requires proper protective equipment and a secure work area. Ventilation and lighting must be considered too when working with silver. The two jewelry types discussed are so dissimilar in material but still so alike in terms of discipline and creativity. While silver jewelry requires a good amount of investment, paracord bracelet only requires a small cost to get started. Silver jewelry requires metal work while paracord bracelet requires weavings and patterns. However, both require patience and creativity. The designs need not be complex to show sophistication. Making paracord bracelets requires patience and creativity. Paracords are known for their strength and elasticity, so make sure you maximize the two properties. As a beginner, master the basic patterns and knots before going into the complicated weaves. Since most weaves are just patterns woven together.

Please make it point to try out the sample projects first before working on your own design. The projects presented here could help beginners to master the techniques that were discussed.

There are online resources if you want to learn more. There are blogs you can read to learn more. There also more sample projects online. These blogs and projects are from people who share the same passion as you. Thank you again for downloading this ebook. I hope that you learned from this ebook. Have fun making your own jewelry!